HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: Edward_Engler@transarc.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How to remove old paint on the brickwork in the basement?
Date: 22 Jul 92 10:45:07 GMT
Article-I.D.: transarc.wePOmnL0BwwDE1HakJ
Organization: Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA


This Old House covered removal of lead paint on one of their shows. 
They removed the paint by scraping only.  Scraping actually doesn't
produce dust, just chips that fall to the ground quickly.  Other methods
only lead to bigger lead contamination problems.  Sanding creates toxic
dust, power washing creates toxic water.  The best method is to put a
dropcloth under the area to be scraped, collecting the scrapings and
disposing of them properly (you can't just put them in the trash).

Ed Engler
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: richg@hatch.socal.com (Rich Greenberg)
Subject: Re: ADVICE WANTED:  Changing house outlets from 2 to 3 prongs
Organization: Hatch Usenet and E-mail.  Playa del Rey, CA
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 03:35:19 GMT

In article <NUGE.92Jul29095030@newport.med.ge.com> nuge@newport.med.ge.com (James A. Nugent) writes:

>	What kinds of ckt testers are available to test the efficacy
>of a ground?

What I use (and all the electricians I have had do work for me use the
same thing) is to get a "pigtail" light socket, fasten 2 1 ft lengths
of #14 solid wire to it, and strip back about 1/2" on the ends away from the
socket.  Make sure that any exposed metal on the socket end is taped over.
Use a 100w bulb in the socket.  Touch one wire to the hot side and the
other to the (box, bx, whatever you are testing) and if the bulb lights
to normal brightness with no flickering, you have a good ground.
No light == no ground.  Dim or flickering light == poor ground.

If you wanted to be fancy, you could use insulated test probes (get at an
electronic place), but no professional electrician uses other than
the 2 lengths of #14 (or perhaps #12).

-- 
                
Rich Greenberg - N6LRT - 310-649-0238 - richg@hatch.socal.com
From: jas@ISI.EDU (Jeff Sullivan)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Ants!
Date: 24 Jul 92 21:36:46 GMT
Distribution: misc
Organization: USC-ISI


Ants keep making their way into my second-story condo, and I don't
know from where.  We've cleaned out the cupboards twice and sprayed,
but I'd like to try to find a more permanent and possibly less toxic
(although that is secondary at this point) way fo stopping their
incursion.

Any leads?

jas
--
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jeffrey A. Sullivan		| Research Scientist at small
jas@venera.isi.edu		| Information Sciences Institute
jas@isi.edu                    	| University of Southern California
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: florence@infonode.ingr.com (John Florence)
Subject: Re: Reseeding vs. resodding
Organization: Intergraph Corporation, Huntsville, AL.
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 14:18:23 GMT

	How about cement and green paint ??????????????
	
	Sorry, it's a sloooowwwww day....................  8{)
-- 
   John N. Florence     **** All opinions expressed herein are mine
   Intergraph Corp.     **** and mine alone. ****
   Huntsville, Al.      uunet!infonode!florence OR florence@infonode.ingr.com
   O.K., O.K. !!!! .....I'm voting AGAINST Bush and FOR change...............  
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: waldorf@lanai.cs.ucla.edu (Jerry Waldorf)
Subject: Lead Based Paints
Originator: waldorf@lanai.cs.ucla.edu
Organization: UCLA Computer Science Department
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 92 17:58:40 GMT

How does one tell if the paint on the house is lead based?  At what
time was lead removed from paints used on houses?

Thanks
From: hhwu@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (eric.wu)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Humming Water Pipe, Stopped!!!
Date: 23 Jul 92 13:16:47 GMT
Article-I.D.: cbnewsh.1992Jul23.131647.4727
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T



Thanks to Howard Moss and Dan Ossian, it is one of the toilets 
that makes my pipe hum.  The float and float arm used to vibrate 
vigorously but stopped after I juggled them.  I thought the 
problem was gone.  While I was chasing the hum, I occasionally 
opened the cover and looked into the tank.  They looked so 
peaceful.  Now I can stop the pipe humming by touching the float 
or the arm.  I will replace the ballcock assembly and the flapper.  

This group is great.  Thanks to many people who replyed.  If I 
didn't say the following in my original post, many of you will 
judge correctly.  I apologize.

                            I believe I fixed all the leaky 
faucet or toilet and .....

Eric
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: wwang@osf.org (Weidong Wang)
Subject: Ground source heat pump
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 13:26:27 GMT


Just heard on the radio (Paul Harvey News and Comments) this morning:

There is this so called ground source heat pump available now for new houses
which will pump the ground air (cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter)
to your house and which can save you at least 1/3 of your heating and air conditioning cost.

Has anyone had any experience with it? Just curiouse to know.

-- 
    +--------------------------------------------------------------------+
    |  Weidong Wang                   |  Open Software Foundation        |
    |  wwang@osf.org                  |  11 Cambridge Center             |
    |  (617) 621-7272                 |  Cambridge, MA 02142             |
    +--------------------------------------------------------------------+


Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: Alarm sirens
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 19:47:26 GMT

gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston) writes:
: 
: Not exactly about sirens, but....
: 
: Does anyone out there know the subsonic frequencies that induce fear
: in someone? Seems like I've read about how the right "sound" can
: make a person feel absolute terror, the more so because there's no
: observable reason for it.

There are no subsonic frequencies that will do that. There are 
ultrasonic frequencies that will make some people feel uneasy
or unhappy - there are none that will cause terror in anyone.

What you have read is what they call an urban legend. 

: Seems like this would be the ultimate indoor alarm sounder....

It might be - if it were possible. However, I would not want to 
be in such a house if it went off. Remember, as the homeowner,
you are going to have to be able to stand any noise that your
system generates - false alarms are inevitable.

Bill
From: smb@ulysses.att.com (Steven Bellovin)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Another meter question
Date: 23 Jul 92 02:31:59 GMT
Distribution: na

In article <1992Jul22.151613.26671@informix.com>, davek@informix.com (David Kosenko) writes:
> Is there a limit (according to NEC) to the distance between the electic
> meter and the main breaker?
> 
> I'm upgrading my service, and the elec. co. sited my meter at a spot that
> is a bit further away from the breaker box than ideal.  I'm rather constrained
> as to the location of the box.  Bringing the main line through the wall
> directly below the meter site puts it about 20 feet away from the box.  Is
> it allowed to run the line (either outside or inside, in counduit) that far
> before connecting to the main breaker?  Or would I be better off putting
> a main breaker box right at the entrance point, then running to the "real"
> box from there?  This is a 200amp service, by the way.

Here's what the commentary in the NEC Handbook says.  (N.B.  The
commentary is not ``official'', but it is the authorized explanation.)

	No maximum distance or footage is specified from the point of
	entrance of service conductors to a readily accessible location
	for the installation of a service disconnecting means [i.e., the
	main breaker].  The authority enforcing this Code has the
	responsibility for and is charged with making interpretations
	related to specific individual installations.  The length of
	service-entrance conductors should be kept to a minimum inside
	buildings since power utilities provide limited overcurrent
	protection and, in the event of a ``fault'', the service
	conductors could ignite nearby combustible materials.

	Some local jurisdictions have written rules on the allowable
	length of service-entrance conductors run within buildings.  The
	authority having jurisdiction may permit service conductors to
	bypass fuel storage tanks or gas meters, etc., permitting the
	service disconnecting means to be located in a feadily accessible
	location.  However, if the authority judges the distance as being
	excessive, the disconnecting means may be required to be located
	outside at a readily acessible location that is not necessarily
	nearest the point of entry.

In other words, ask your local inspector, but don't get your hopes up
too high...
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com (Fred Christiansen)
Subject: what size drywall for 2x6 24" OC?
Organization: Motorola Computer Group, Technical Systems Division
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 23:47:49 GMT

Since I plan to frame the house using 2x6's, I would like to go to 24"
centers in order to benefit from thicker insulation as well as fewer stud
interruptions (hence a modest insulating benefit).  I was reckoning that
1/2" drywall would still be suitable.  However, I was surprised to
read in a book last night that 5/8" (i.e., FR) drywall should be used.

Is that just an opinion?  Or a near hard-n-fast rule?

Oh, and another place said 5/8" drywall for ceilings (24" OC trusses in
my plans).  Is 1/2" not OK?

...Fred (who's hoping the city will approve his own-design plans by July's end)
-- 
Fred Christiansen, Motorola, 2900 S Diablo Way, Tempe, AZ 85282  "Canajun, eh?"
fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com  ||  uunet!phx.mcd.mot.com!fredch  ||  +1 602-438-3464
  On Attitude & the Immune System:  A sound heart is the life of the flesh:
    but envy the rottenness of the bones.  Prov 14:30
Xref: sparky misc.consumers.house:9927 misc.invest.real-estate:352
From: whitney@isi.edu (Richard Whitney)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,misc.invest.real-estate
Subject: Re: building a house
Date: 28 Jul 92 23:02:06 GMT
Reply-To: whitney@berio.isi.edu (Richard Whitney)
Distribution: usa
Organization: USC-Information Sciences Institute

In article <1992Jul27.201412.28828@rtsg.mot.com> mehrpuya@rtsg.mot.com (Djamschid Mehrpuyan) writes:
>  <stuff deleted>
>  Here is what I know sofar:
>
>     1.  Buy some land
>     2.  Hire an architect who will design the house of your dreams
>     3.  Hire contractors (building contractors, electrician, etc)

You fergot a step.  Somewhere between 1 and 3, you need:  get permits
from the local authority.  I've been more than two years trying to get
the permit (zoning clearance) I need BEFORE I can apply for a building
permit.  This is in the coastal zone of Ventura County, CA; very tough
requirements plus a slow (or better, no) growth mentality in the
bureaucracy.  Ask around before you buy.  This is widely variable from
area to area.  I thought like you did:  what the hay, my grandpa built
the house I grew up in, no sweat, it's not rocket science, beats a
quarter mil for a two bedroom flat in Santa Monica....
BZZZT *WRONG*  Not in 21st Century California.  [They wanted me to do
an Environmental Impact Report!]

Good luck.

Cheers,
Richard
From: uxgisd@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: fixer-upper advice
Date: 23 Jul 92 19:04:50 GMT
Reply-To: uxgisd@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology

Well we've been fixing up our house for the past 2 1/2 years.  Not to the
same extent of some of you, but still... 

Previous owners had painted over gumwood molding, painted over three layers
of wall paper.  We have carpeted two of the rooms, stripped all the wall-
paper off and repainted. The ceiling in the kitchen was absolutely terrible,
so we put in a new one, we've started with the rest of the kitchen, but 
havent finished. (it seems the kitchen is the worst).  We've widened the
doorway between kitchen/dining room, knocked out a wall, and have gotten 
rid of a window that we cant figure out why someone would have put there in
the first place.  We havent even touched the bathrooms.  Theres a toilet
in the basement with a stall around it.  We would like to convert that to 
half a bath.  We want to make a room in the basement.  

Outside, we've put in a deck, and a french door, and lots of gardening. 
We still need to paint the garage, house, and put shutters on the house. 

How nieve I was! My husband new how it would be, he just didnt want to tell 
me how it was going to be. :-)  When we looked at the house, I thought, 
well it needs some kitchen work, wallpaper stripped and painted, some 
carpeting and we'll be all set.  Well I also thought we would have finished 
about 4 or 5 months after we bought the house.  Big time wrong on that acct.

Well you save money buy buying a fixer upper.  We did absolutely everything
ourselves. Oh we also did some rewiring. I only had ONE outlet in the 
kitchen! Can you imagine.  What my husband didnt know, he learned along the
way.  

We do have one child, he was 1 yr old when we bought the house.  We did 
everything after he went to sleep or was at grandmas house for the night.
But, there was the problem of making sure that he didnt get into stuff.
And of course, the dust.  Dust was everywhere! It seemed to settle in 
the heat ducts, then when the heat went on, dust was everywhere again. 

Well with all the inconvience, we would do it again.  In fact the next
house will have to need some work also.  Its just a time factor.  Instead
of coming home and watching tv, we come and sand :-).  Of course, after
your done with one small project, you need to give yourselves a break. 
Thats probobly why its taking 2 1/2 years:-)  Money is a factor for us.
Thats why we cant afford to hire someone.  Luckily, the stuff we've done
is more time consuming, than money consuming.

And our marriage has survived! (so far) :-)

Ursula 
Xref: sparky misc.consumers.house:9936 rec.woodworking:5207 news.answers:2282
From: cmkuo@cs.utexas.edu (Chin-Ming Kuo)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: First time home buyer tax credit?
Date: 30 Jul 1992 09:43:32 -0500
Organization: CS Dept, University of Texas at Austin
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: yoakum.cs.utexas.edu
Keywords: alive again?

From today's paper, the finance committee passed the tax package which
includes, among others, the $2,500 tax credit for first time home
buyer.
So is it alive again? Why is it $2,500 instead of the proposed $5,000?


-- 
Chin-Ming Kuo
cmkuo@cs.utexas.edu
{uunet,rutgers,ti-csl}!cs.utexas.edu!cmkuo
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: alfa@b23a.ingr.com (Laura Pina)
Subject: help with stove and fridge
Organization: Intergraph
Distribution: misc
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 18:47:47 GMT

I must buy a stove and refrigerator, but I refuse to buy new.
(My very-soon-to-be husband and I are renting an older home until
we can afford to buy one - sometime next century!).

I have a choice for the stove: gas or electric.  I've used both
(and like gas a bit better).  But, since I'm shopping for a used
one, I'm concerned that I'll known enough to distinguish a good,
(not dangerous) gas stove from a bad one. 

We also have to buy a fridge.  I've used all kinds (been living
in apartments all over the eastern seaboard for ten years now).
I know I want a frost-free, and the house isn't set up for an
icemaker. 

I'd appreciate information from any of you regarding shopping hints,
brand name favorites, size (just the two of us - but I cook a lot),
safety concerns, etc.

Thanks!
Laura
From: egreen@East.Sun.COM (Ed Green - Pixel Cruncher)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: CAD house design programs
Date: 21 Jul 1992 14:02:58 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, RTP, NC
Distribution: world
Reply-To: egreen@East.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: laser.east.sun.com

In article 92Jul20174256@next4.osf.org, macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis) writes:
>
>$250-500 to hire an architect to design a house?!  Unless all s/he's doing
>is initialling kit plans, this is completely unrealistic.  Around here,
>you can expect to pay either by the hour ($50-100+ per hour) or as a
>percentage of the cost (something like 10%).

The American Institute of Architects fee schedule is 6%, and it is
broken down further in terms of what is due for initial consultation,
design, working drawings, blueprints, contract administration, and
construction oversight, in the event a building is started but not
completed (which happens a LOT, funny how many people think if they
decide not to build, they don't owe the architect anything).  (my dad
are one).

>Of course, most architects (like most anything else) are probably useless
>and a waste of money.  Spend the necessary time to find a good one.  

Of course (like most anything else), you get what you pay for.  The big
advantage of choosing an architect, compared to a lawyer or dentist, is
that it's pretty easy to drive around an look at her past work.

I don't believe going to an architect for a full custom home makes much
sense, unless you either know exactly what you want (and have a lot of
money), or you want something dramatic/unique, and you have no idea
what (and you have a lot of money).

A more cost effective solution would be to purchase a set of plans that
is close to what you want, and shop around for a small to medium sized
architectural firm that mentors students.  Work mostly with the
draftsman on implementing the modifications you want (they will know
enough to avoid the mistakes Stavros warned about), and have the
architect approve and stamp the final results.  For an average home,
you should be able to send the drawings out for bids, and do the
contract administration yourself, with help (and a few construction
inspections) from the draftsman.  

Depending on where you are, this is probably not as strange as it
sounds.  Most residential construction does not involve architects, and
commercial construction is severely depressed in most parts of the
country, as recent commercial developments sit empty.  There are a lot
of hungry architects out there, and you can negotiate anything.  It
helps if there is a university with an architecture or design school in
your city.


---
Ed Green, former Ninjaite |I was drinking last night with a biker,
  Ed.Green@East.Sun.COM   |and I showed him a picture of you.  I said,
DoD #0111  (919)460-8302  |"Go on, get to know her, you'll like her!"
 (The Grateful Dead) -->  |It seemed like the least I could do...
From: dougl@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com (Doug Leno)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Advice sought on Spa/Hot Tub Purchase
Date: 29 Jul 92 12:52:45 GMT
Organization: Hewlett Packard - Boise, ID

in hpdmd48:misc.consumers.house I wrote:


>I saw a news article in a local Spa Store recently stating that the California
>DA has filed suit against CalSpa, apparently over high pressure, deceptive
>sales techniques used at shows and fairs. 

One more tidbit re:  Calspa.  I talked to the a manuf.  manager for a
Seattle-based gelcoat resin supplier last week (His company supplies
acrylic resin to spa manufacturers).  Apparently, Calspa's reputation
in the acrylic resin industry is that their credit is worthless.


Doug Leno


--
Doug Leno                                    Hewlett Packard Company
Manufacturing Engineering                    11413 Chinden Blvd
Heads and Media                              Boise, Idaho  83714
Disk Memory Division                         (208) 323-3693
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Internet: dougl@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com        dougl%hpdmd48@relay.hp.com
--------------------------------------------------------------------
X.400: AD=ATTMAIL  PD=HP  CC=US  ON=HP  OU1=CORP  OU2=UNIX  OU3=X400
  SN=LENO  FN=DOUG  DDAT1=HPMEXT1  DDAV1=dougl@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: 1/2" drill reccommendations
Reply-To: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 92 02:44:35 GMT

In article <1992Jul27.200728.29263@cbnewse.cb.att.com> parnass@cbnewse.cb.att.com (Bob Parnass, AJ9S) writes:

>Many would argue that Milwaukee makes the best electric drills.
>They are made in USA, expensive, but ultra rugged,
>and you'll find them popular with contractors and industry.

I've had a Milwaukee "Hole Shooter" since 1973 and you can't kill it. If
they still build them that way, they're well worth the prices I've seen
on them.  Just one thing, though. Check the data plate. The Milwaukee palm
sander I saw in Home Depot a few weeks ago had "Made in Taiwan" on it.
If their drills are still US made, go for it. 

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | Basic research is what I'm doing when I don't
                    | know what I'm doing.
                    |                            Werner Von Braun
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: jeff@jlk.b11.ingr.com (Jeff Kilpatrick)
Subject: Re: Removing wall paper.
Reply-To: jeff@jlk.b11.ingr.com
Organization: Intergraph Corp. Huntsville, AL
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 18:43:49 GMT

In article <1992Jul22.173622.15020@athena.mit.edu>, harris@athena.mit.edu (Jonathan G Harris) writes:
|> What is the fastest way to remove wall paper? Steam or chemicals? Is there a 
|> particular chemical that is especially fast? I have tried one and it seems to
|> be very slow, the paper seems to dry out by the time anything has reached the
|> paste.

  I just did this last weekend.  Check out the Wagner power Steamer.  It costs a
little, but I did a wall (13x8) in under 2 hours.  Need to have on hand a putty
knife with a beveled edge.  Note:  I do not work for Wagner, just a satisfied
customer.
From: egreen@East.Sun.COM (Ed Green - Pixel Cruncher)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: What about alarm systems (was Burglars and dogs)
Date: 31 Jul 92 15:16:46 GMT
Reply-To: egreen@East.Sun.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems, RTP, NC
NNTP-Posting-Host: laser.east.sun.com

In article 18474@muffin.cme.nist.gov, libes@cme.nist.gov (Don Libes) writes:
>
>Around here (Washington DC), the trend is to rob people on the street,
>rather than homes.  Most homes are well defended - what with alarms
>and dogs (and snakes).  Most people, on the other hand, put up no
>struggle whatsoever quickly handing over their money (and car).

Wisely so (unless they are armed, which is illegal in DC, which means,
of course, that there is no crime).  

Tips from my friends in NYC:

Carry jewelry in your pocket (not purse), and put in on in the elevator
just before you get there.  Take it off as soon as you leave.
Particularly pierced earrings (don't ask!).

Always keep $20 and an 2 expired credit cards with some useless junk in
a wallet.  Give it up freely if requested, and hope they don't ask for
the real one.  If so, give it up, too.  It's only money.


---
Ed Green, former Ninjaite |I was drinking last night with a biker,
  Ed.Green@East.Sun.COM   |and I showed him a picture of you.  I said,
DoD #0111  (919)460-8302  |"Go on, get to know her, you'll like her!"
 (The Grateful Dead) -->  |It seemed like the least I could do...
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house