HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: karplus@cse.ucsc.edu (Kevin Karplus)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: wide-range gearing
Date: 8 Jan 1993 05:21:41 GMT
Organization: University of California, Santa Cruz (CE/CIS Boards)
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: ararat.ucsc.edu


I noticed that jtyl@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu posted a message about the
new xc-expert microdrive, claiming a 20-32-42 front sprocket and 11-28
rear sprocket.

My computations show that as a 5.35:1 ratio, the widest I have ever
seen.  The low gear (19.3" with 27" wheels) is extremely low, and the
high gear (103") is slightly higher than my current top gear.
With 26" tires, the effective diameter is reduced to 18.6" to 99.3". 

My apologies to Europeans and others who use the more sensible metric
system for gear ratios.  A 700mm diameter wheel would have a range of
1.57m to 8.4m per revolution of the pedals.

I'm wondering who this set up is intended for, since racers will not
be happy with such a low top gear, and the low gear seems too low for
anything other than hauling large cargo trailers up steep hillsides.
(Even with a cadence of 85rpm, ground speed in low gear is only 2.2m/sec
or 5mph.  Most hill-climbing is done with a cadence between 40 and 60rpm,
giving 2.3--3.5 mph---that's slower than walking up the hill!)

I might be happy with such a system, but past experience has showed
that bike manufactures do not see any market in people like me.
So who else would buy this?

Or are we seeing the extreme low gear setup for the group---one the
manufacturer only included so they could claim to have the widest
range on the market?

Kevin Karplus
-- 
Kevin Karplus		karplus@ce.ucsc.edu

Due to budgetary constraints the light at the end of the tunnel is
being turned off.
From: jbrandt@hplred.HPL.HP.COM (Jobst Brandt)
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 22:35:40 GMT
Subject: Re: Wheel Wonderings
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories, Palo Alto, CA
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech

Eric Topp

> Old timers used linseed oil on the spoke threads when building
> which acted as a lubricant while while the wheel was tensioned and
> trued and then hardened to act as a thread binder.  Alternatively,
> one can crimp the nipple slightly so it resists turning freely
> (this can be done after the wheel is built).

I would change that tot "some" oldtimers and go further to say again
that a wheel in which rim and spokes are properly selected, these
methods are unnecessary.  Crimping is one that does the least good
because it is destructive, can cause nipple failure and ultimately
does no good because the thread is still loose after crimping.  It
is primarily for this reason that swaged spokes are used because
they have the added elasticity that prevents them from going slack
under road shock.  The effect is small but valuable.  It is so small
that statistical it is not easy to verify, however, with computer
modeling the effect is readily apparent.

> There are specially made spoke thread compounds that address both
> problems...

Spoke prep is good for wheels where you want to use thick straight
gauge spokes in spite of the inability to stay true without
some additional means of retention.

> I can really tell the difference between treated an untreated
> spokes when I true a wheel; wheels with treated spokes true easily
> and are remarkably stable when ridden.  I wouldn't even consider
> building a wheel without it.  If you use torque at the spoke key
> as a measure of spoke tension, you'd better recalibrate or you'll
> easily overtension a wheel with treated spokes.

Well I think that is a bit strong although some lubricant is
essential to a good tight wheel.  Most of the torque of tightening
spokes occurs at the interface between nipple and rim, not in the
threads.  Because the nipple contact with the rim supports the same
force as the threads, at its substantially larger diameter there is
appropriately more torque.  Therefore, don't fail to to dab some oil
or grease in every nipple socket in the rim using a Q-tip.

jobst_brandt@hplabs.hp.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: A10377@waccvm.corp.mot.com (Michael Duke)
Subject: Re: MBA LX review.
Organization: Motorola
Date: 11 Jan 1993 10:39:16 MST


>Right.  You missed my basic point which was really clear as far as I ca see.
>LX is good stuff for cheapo mountain bikes but not $800 plus bikes.  Th MB-3
>with DX is the same price as many steel frames with LX.  It's a better uy
>as a result.  Clear?
>
>-Terry

  I've ridden a Bontrager Race with the new LX and liked it. To say
the group belongs on cheapo mountain bikes based solely on the fact
that it's painted is unfair. The price of the Bontrager with LX has
placed it into reach of many who would otherwise be limited to only
mass production bikes. And the quality of such a handbuilt frame as
the Bontrager is superior to that of a production bike. So what if
the paint chips over time. The advantage of being able to purchase
such a quality bike in the first place makes LX worthwhile. BTW,
the price of the Bontrager is about $1150 and has some nice touches
as well - MKS clipless pedals, Bontrager bar/stem combo, Bontrager
saddle.
From: h.zierke@link-njd.nbg.sub.org (Hans-Joachim Zierke)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Automatic transmissions for bikes
Reply-To: h.zierke@link-njd.nbg.sub.org
Date: 04 Jan 93 12:00:00 MET
Distribution: world
Organization: Mailboxsystem LINK-NJD, FRG
X-Version: ZerUU V6.43a


On 02.01.93, karplus@cse.ucsc.edu writes:

 >I've ridden Sturmey-Archer 3-speeds and 5-speeds, and consider them
 >superior to derailleurs for city riding in flat country--they are low
 >maintenance devices, and allow the use of sturdy chains that don't
 >need to be replaced every 5000 miles.  (With a chainguard that keeps
 >out road grit, chains for three-speeds last an extremely long time.)
 >Unfortunately, existing hub gears don't have a wide enough range for
 >the hills I now have to ride in.

Shimano is already selling the 7Speed-hub. Sachs will sell their 7Speed
in spring. The Shimano shifts better, the Sachs will be more efficient
and give a wider range.

I would never use this stuff, but a lot of commuters like it. Coaster
brakes are silly, however - for a commuter bike it should be a drum
brake (I hope Sachs will produce a 7speed-drumbrake-combination, their
drumbrakes are good) or a Magura. I didn't trust the Magura hydraulics
at the beginning, but they are really maintenance-free, if you don't
count the pad-changing.


Ciao
Hajo

--
Hans-Joachim Zierke  ##  Tel.: +49-30 / 394 8445  ##  Fax: +49-30 / 394 8447
                         h.zierke@bi-link.owl.de
From: ehouse@Apple.COM (Eric House)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: New Phil Wood Hub question
Date: 4 Jan 93 22:57:49 GMT
Organization: Apple Computer Inc, Cupertino, CA

In article <1993Jan2.014347.13788@pegasus.com> richard@pegasus.com (Richard Foulk) writes:
>>Seriously, given the fact that I've got access to a machine shop:
>>anybody got any tips on a) lubricating and b)changing bearings in
>>the old non-user-servicable Phil Wood hubs?    Thanks in advance.
>>
>
>When I showed my wheel (with old Phil Wood hub) to a local bike
>mechanic he mentioned that there is a tool available that will
>allow you to take these hubs apart so that you can replace the
>bearings.

Unless it's one of the new "field servicable" hubs, the tool you're
referring to is an arbor press.  Not exactly something you put in your
knapsack and carry home.  If you've got one (and you'll need one one with
plenty of reach if you don't want to take the wheel apart) then it's a
simple matter of popping out the axle assembly, replacing the cartridges,
and pressing it back into place with a generous serving of loctite.
-- 
****************************************************************************
Eric House			"My employer doesn't share its opinions with
RAAM in '93?		   	 me, so I can share only mine with you"
Organization: Stanford Linear Accelerator Center
Date: Tuesday, 12 Jan 1993 12:32:37 PST
From: <TOM@SLACVM.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Avocet 30 on a 32-Spoke?

I'm transfering my Avocet 30 which the ring was mounted on a 36-spoke to my
new bike/wheel 32-spoke, only it doesn't quite fit right.  Does AV make a
ring for the 32-s or what?
                                       -tom
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: paynter@bnr.ca (Stuart Paynter)
Subject: Re: MBA LX review.
Reply-To: paynter@bnr.ca (Stuart Paynter)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 93 18:12:12 GMT

In article <C0p9IJ.11B@cs.uiuc.edu>, tthiel@cs.uiuc.edu (Terry Thiel) writes:

|> >Let's try to leave the looks of components as it is totally 
|> >subjective.  Is there anything else that I've missed in the above?
|> 
|> Well everything is subjective but the painted components go directly
|> to the issue of durability.  Not only does it look like hell pretty
|> quickly but I would guess that it's much more likely to rust once the paint
|> comes off.
|> -Terry
|> -- 
|> -Terry

I think that what I was trying to get at is how do these components
work/feel.  I mean you can have something totally ugly (in this case
painted components) that may be totally functional (TBD).  Conversely,
you can have something that looks like a million bucks but doesn't work 
worth a s**t. (and of course looks good-works good, and looks bad-works 
bad).

About durability, is the fact that it is painted to distinguish it 
from other lines an indicator of it's overall quality?  I really am 
interested in getting down to the bottom line - How do these things
perform and stand up.  Are they worth the money they are charging in
comparison to other groups for the functionality?

IMHO, I couldn't care less what a crank looks like as long as it performs adequately.  My (unpainted) DX stuff is beat to crap but it still performs
(almost) flawlessly.  BTW, I doubt that LX stuff is made of steel (please
correct me if I am wrong) so what you get underneath when the paint chips 
off is unpolished alloy (ie doesn't rust).

Cheers...Stuart
Xref: sparky rec.bicycles:23770 rec.bicycles.misc:1898
Organization: Arizona State University
Date: Thursday, 7 Jan 1993 17:30:43 MST
From: <ASLXG@ASUACAD.BITNET>
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles,rec.bicycles.misc
Subject: Re: I did a good thing today

Thought I would relate a short story just so you don't think

the cops will always save your butt.  I was descending a twisty

mountain road in suburban L.A. (Palos Verdes Dr.), going the speed

limit, when an L.A. county sheriff pulls up behind.  I can't pull

over to let him pass since the road is narrow, I'm going the speed

limit, and anyway, the cop never indicated to me that he wanted me

to.  He backs off 100 yards.  Just as I come to a sweeping 100

yard right-hand curve with a foot-high curb on the inside, he zooms

up behind and taps his horn.  I pull over as far as I can, to within

a foot of the curb, and he comes alongside me, matches my speed, and

SQUEEZES ME OVER TO THE CURB.  He held me there, about 35 mph, with

a 1-foot envelope, for about 3 years (5-10 seconds, actually).  Then

he zoomed ahead and checked me out in the rearview mirror for a

while, before heading off to the donut shop.  I guess you know

that I didn't give him the finger.

Larry Gottlob
From: wagner@mala.bc.ca
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Norm's New Season
Date: 12 Jan 93 17:18:23 -0700
Organization: Malaspina College

In article <1993Jan12.181706.12615@informix.com>, davek@informix.com (David Kosenko) writes:
> Steven Johnson writes:
>>
>>I've been busy converting my European flurbigator to three phase power.
>>I've pretty much got it working now, it was just a matter of determining
>>the right capacitance value.  
> 
> Oh, it's even easier than that, you just need to reverse the polarity
> of the neutron flow.
> 
> 
> Any Dr. Who fans out there listening ;-)?
> 
> Dave
> -- 
> Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
> **************************************************************************
> "I look back with some satisfaction on what an idiot I was when I was 25,
>  but when I do that, I'm assuming I'm no longer an idiot." - Andy Rooney

Now that you mention it, I don't think the flurbigator had anything to do with
Dr. Who.  I think credit for the first use (or mention) was in an ancient Vogon
ballad.  Was probably the reaon why Ford Prefect and Arthur Dent actually
escaped the Vogon warship and it's abominable poetry.  They weren't really
tossed off but managed to create an escape device by the use of the Vogon
Flurbigator.

73, Tom
AKA VE7GDA, Nanaimo BC (tupperware central)
From: ama@marley.Eng.Sun.COM (Al Amaral - SunSelect)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: What to do after the fact [was WARNING (response to...)]
Date: 8 Jan 1993 15:50:01 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems Inc. - BDC
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: marley.east.sun.com

In article <C0FxtF.9K0@amd.com> ben@angelo.amd.com (Ben Chang) writes:
>In response to an article where someone's fingers get chopped off....
>
>I've heard that you should take the finger and put it in a glass of milk
>or salt water then get to the hospital for surgery.  Does that sound right?
>
>Ben

First off, make sure that the injured person is taken care of.  If the 
injured person is bleeding badly, spending 5 minutes to find and package 
a missing finger or limb won't do any good if the person bleeds to death.  
If the bleeding is substantial have one person take the injured person to 
the hospital as quickly as possible and have another person follow, after
retrieving the missing limb and packaging it up for the trip.

A finger, or any other body part, should be packed in ICE as quickly as 
possible, and brought to the hospital.  Don't try to clean it, leave that
to the doctors.  If ice is not available then a clean damp rag, or a damp
newspaper would be next best, until ice could be found.  Yes, NEWSPAPER!  
Newspaper is generally quite clean as it is not touched by too many human
hands.

By the way, MILK is the method of choice for a lost TOOTH.  The milk has
sufficient nutrients in it to keep a tooth alive for a reasonable period of
time.  If milk is not available, place the tooth under your tongue util 
you get to the dentist or get to the milk.  The trick with a tooth is not
to let it dry out.  Again, don't try to clean it, except maybe to rinse 
it off under running water.  Any scrubbing to remove sand/dirt will 
surely screw up any plans for re-implantation.

I've never heard about using milk for anything other than teeth.  A finger
would certainly not benefit all that much, as the nutrients in milk would
not be able to perfuse in any real amounts into the tissue.  Also, the risk
of infection would be quite high, especially if the milk has begun to spoil.
I've also never heard about using salt water for either body parts, or teeth,
but I would suspect it would not be a good idea.  Salt water made with table 
salt is not quite the same as saline solution.

In any case, be aware of the time it till take for the trip to the hospital.
If it's a 2 minute trip, don't spend a half hour packaging a limb in ice.
If it's a long trip, spend a little more time to make sure it arrives intact
and viable.

--
--------------------------------------------------------------
Al Amaral				Al.Amaral@East.Sun.COM
From: berry@a.chem.upenn.edu (Don Berry)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Sale on Quick-Grip clamps
Date: 5 Jan 93 14:28:27 GMT
Followup-To: rec.woodworking
Organization: University of Pennsylvania


    I saw these extremely low prices for Quick-Grip bar
clamps in a special flyer from Harbor Freight, and thought
others might be interested.  These are pistol grip 
(one hand operation) bar clamps from the makers of
Vise-Grips, and although they are not for every job, they
are mighty handy (even Norm uses them.)  

    For comparison, Woodworker's Supply sells the 36in
clamp for $25, and the mini-clamps for $14 each.

Size   price    item #

6in   $10.99   04489-1WJA
12     13.99   04490-0WJA
18     14.99   04491-1WJA
24     16.99   04492-2WJA
36     18.99   04493-1WJA
6in mini-bar clamp (set of 2)  $14.69  (item #01034-6WJA)

Harbor Freight:  (800) 423-2567

Note that the special prices are linked to the specific
item numbers listed in the flyer; no item #, no sales price. 


I have no association with Harbor Freight, I just was tickled to
find a good sale on some clamps I was getting ready buy 
anyways and wanted to share the serendipity!

Cheers and Happy 1993,
Don Berry

Dept of Chemistry
University of Pennsylvania
From: ag900@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (David Burris)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Jointers, Which one to buy?
Date: 5 Jan 1993 20:27:46 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: ag900@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (David Burris)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc4.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz) says:

some text deleted...


>   I singled out Grizzly because they had the best price for advertised 
>   features.   My point is that if you buy Grizzly, since it is mail order, 
>   IF you get a defective machine, you will have to put up with the hassle 
>   of SHIPPING it back, plus you cannot put your hands on a model before 
>   purchase to see if you like the way it is put together.   There is quite 
>   a bit of variation from taiwan knock-off to taiwan knock-off.   Some use 
>   levers, some use handwheels, some handwheels are under the tables, some 
>   in front, etc.
 That's not exactly correct. Grizzly has a service, where they will give
you the name and address of someone  in your area that has the machine
you are looking for. This would make it possible for you to get a hands
on demo and the pros and cons from an actual owner before the purchase.

>
>>If you followed the survey that was taken here on the net a few months
>>ago, you would have seen that, the great majority of Grizzly customers
>>are very satisfied with their purchases, and would continue to deal with
>>Grizzly.
>
>   I did.  I also noted that there were a few who had to return a machine
>   with all the delays and accompanying hassles.   I don't have the time
>   or patience to deal with it, so Grizzly is ruled out for me at this 
>   time.

Sounds like a personal problem. :-)

Dave

-- 
ag900@cleveland.freenet.edu
From: kl@cveng120.veheng.det (Keith L)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Advice needed...
Date: 6 Jan 93 19:12:48 GMT
Reply-To: kl@cveng120.veheng.det
Organization: General Motors Corporation

My advice: 

(1) READ as much as you can about any and all tools that you would consider buying.  This knowledge will help in deciding which tools to buy as well as what quality to look for


(2) Buy a good quality bandsaw.  I just bought a Delta 14" bandsaw and I feel it is worth every penny I paid for it.  I'm sorry I did not buy it much earlier as I seem to use it every time I'm in the shop.  (Jet, Grizzly and other major competitors have good products, but my experience has been that you get what you pay for as far as features and quality in this category of tool.)  

(2) Buy a drill press and equip it with a drum sanders, circle cutters, forstner bits etc. as you can afford them. Drill presses are relatively inexpensive for the utility you get from them.  Price-shop among the major manufacturers as there does not seem to be much difference between comparable models. 

(3) Buy a #07 hand plane -- commonly called a jointer plane and learn how to sharpen and adjust it until you can make translucent shavings. I would sooner part with my Ryobi jointer-planer than with my Record hand jointer plane.

They are called jointers because they are used for flattening and squaring the long narrow side edges of boards so that two of edges may be glued together to form a joint.  This jointed edge can also placed against the rip fence of the table saw so that the opposite edge may be ripped parallel resulting in a constant width board..

Jointers are also used for flattening the cupped or warped wide faces of the board prior to thickness planing.  Thickness planing is intended to give you a constant thickness board makes but it does not make the two surfaces parallel if none of those surfaces are flat.  The jointer is used to make one surface flat prior to making the opposite surface parallel to it. 
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-Delivery-Notice:  SMTP MAIL FROM does not correspond to sender.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Wed, 6 Jan 1993 08:59:16 EST
From:         Bill Alexander <ALEX@NKI.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Mail Order Wood (ARGH!)
              6 Jan 1993 00:37:52 GMT from <asket@ACAD2.ALASKA.EDU>

>Before I waste another $100, has anyone had any experience with M.L. Condon
>in New York?  At least in NY I can ask my father to go bang on thier shop
>doors if they don't send my order.

I don't know about mail order, but I've bought wood from Maurice Condon
in person, and they seem like decent folk, for what that's worth.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: lou@cs.sfu.ca (Lou Hafer)
Subject: Re: How to use waterstone?
Summary: bleach kills mold
Keywords: bleach, soaking waterstones
Organization: CSS, Simon Fraser University, Burnaby, B.C., Canada
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 17:54:06 GMT

	In response to the previous query, a bit of bleach added to the water
used for soaking waterstones does not seem to hurt the stones in any way and
it nicely kills the mold/slime/whatever that grows otherwise. (My experience,
anyway, over the past few years.)

							Lou
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: pauld@mail.boi.hp.com (paulPaul Davis)
Subject: Good experience mail-ordering wood
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 20:59:45 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

I wrote 

> Randle Woods is in Washington state, near Mt. Rainier.  I have 
> no affiliation with them; I just like to promote helpful 
> businessmen with good prices and good products.

Perhaps my promotion of Randle Woods would be more effective with 
the inclusion of their telephone number:  (800) 845-8042.
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Norm's New Season
Date: 8 Jan 93 19:24:08 GMT
Organization: LLNL

In article <9301081623.AA18149@TIS.COM>, richard@TIS.COM (Richard Clark) writes:
> 
> No squiblet flurbigator... Gimme some ideas on how to
> do some nice things with my limited resources..!
> 

I built one of these and it is really useful.  My wife uses it all the
time.  And it really didn't take all that much resources.  All it took
was some driftwood and repeated use of my miter trimmer.  I admit that
the mortises were hard to do with a miter trimmer, but slow but
steady gets there every time.

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: alanm@hpalanm.mentorg.com (Alan McIvor)
Subject: Text on Sharpening Tools
Originator: alanm@hpalanm
Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1993 16:32:02 GMT
Organization: Mentor Graphics 
Keywords: 
Followup-To: 


I'm looking for a good reference on sharpening of hand tools. I'm looking
for a discussion of techniques for sharpening different tools along with an
overview of the different types of stones and/or grinding wheels.
Any pointers would be appreciated. I will summerize the information that 
I receive.

Alan McIvor
alan_mcivor@mentorg.com
(503)685-7000