HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.autos

> yes, i think they sacrificed the last hundredth's of c.d. for some
> downforce.  but i have not seen them bragging about the car being zero
> lift or generating net positive downforce so i assume that the current
> nsx, like everybody else except the 959 and escort cosworth is still
> generating lift at speed.  what i'm saying is that this trend of
> "aiming for good stability" will soon break out into all-out numbers
> war on who generates the most positive downforce (and hence the most
> all-important-to-u.s.-consumers cornering g's)
> 
> eliot

        The Lotus Carlton (Omega, outsise the UK) also generates zero lift 
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: seeree@neptune.ral.rpi.edu (Sanjeev Seereeram)
Subject: Re: ALLOY WHEELS - why?
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY
Distribution: na
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1992 01:26:51 GMT

In article <25860@oasys.dt.navy.mil> bense@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ronald Bense) writes:
>In rec.autos, ebergman@phaedrus.East.Sun.COM (Eric Bergman) writes:
>>I know zilch about alloy wheels.  What do they do for you?
>>What are the pro's and con's of alloy wheels?
>
>Let's see, where to start?
>1) They're lighter.
>2) They're generally stiffer, if you get a performance based wheel.
>3) They're one-piece construction (for the most part) so you're hubcaps
>won't get stolen. :)
>4) No hubcaps = no rattling, loosening, flying off on the highway and
>hitting another car, or ugly rims that require $100 to replace the hubcap
>you just lost. (Wheels can be had in the $100 range)
>5) Looks?!?!
>
>And probably a long list of things I forgot to mention or didn't want
>to type out.
>Ron                          Think about this one (seen on a bumper sticker):
>			     The road to hell is bumper-to-bumper
>			     Make a U-turn to God.
>The irony is priceless.



  You're right about all the above, but I believe you neglected
to mention the most important factor about (well-designed)
alloy wheels -- their lightness contributes to a lower unsprung
weight (i.e. the combined weight of all the componentry NOT
supported by the springs). Low unsprung weight is a design goal
because it means the suspension can react faster and more accurately
to the up-and-downs of the pavement below while transmitting
less shock to the rest of the car. This enhances BOTH the handling
(for you performance freaks) and the ride quality (for you cruisers).
Several years ago, the major drawbacks to alloy wheels were rather
costly damage if you inadvertantly drove over curbs, etc (you couldn't
simply bang them back into shape as some people have done with steel
wheels), trickier to balance, etc. But alloy wheels have become much
more widespread today anyway.

Sanjeev

Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: 891078p@ace.acadiau.ca (Trevor Perkins)
Subject: Re: Mustang GT vs. Mustang LX 5.0
Organization: Acadia University
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 17:51:11 GMT

Joseph Huesmann writes:

>Hello out there. I'm considering getting a 1988 Mustang, but I don't
>know whether I should get a GT or a 5.0 LX. I've heard that the LX
>is actually slightly faster than the GT (being lighter), but how does
>the handling compare? Also, I've heard insurance rates are a lot
>lower for LXs than for GTs... Any advice? Please e-mail. Thanks!

They both have the same power plant and handling package.  The difference is 
in the body styling and price.  The LX 5.0L is lighter, more aerodynamic, 
and costs less ( 2-3000 less here ).  As well as added weight, those ground 
effects also add a considerable amount of drag.

-Trevor
  =======================================================================
  |                 " Have You Driven A FORD Lately ! "                 |
  |---------------------------------------------------------------------|
  |   C. Trevor Perkins                       891078p@ace.acadiau.ca.   |
  |         Acadia University                                           |
  |            Wolfville, Nova Scotia    CANADA                         |
  |---------------------------------------------------------------------|
  |   " This is FORD country ...                                        |
  |               on a quiet night, you can hear a Chevy rust !! "      |
  =======================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: stxtnt@rs733.GSFC.NASA.Gov (Nigel Tzeng)
Subject: Acura Integra mailing list?
Organization: Goddard Space Flight Center, Greenbelt, Md, USA
Distribution: rec
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 22:38:04 GMT



Is there an Acura Integra mailing list like the Talon/Eclipse/Laser
mailing list?  I just sold my Eclipse and bought an Integra and could
use the same sort of information available from the Talon list ;-).

Kinda sad seeing the Eclipse go but I was running out of warranty and
had already had gobs of parts replaced that shouldn't go bad on a car
that young that I figured that I was going to regret keeping it.

Was it me or have other people had bad experiences with the Eclipse
family?  We're talking bad fuel injectors, timing chains, brakes,
alternators and other stuff that cost real $$$ after the warranty
dies.  My friend with a GS/16V lost his timing belt right after his
warranty dies had ate half the cost of rebuilding the engine Mitsu
kicked in half).

Nigel Tzeng
--
Nigel Tzeng
.sig under construction
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: atovorni@engr.UVic.CA (Andreas  Tovornik)
Subject: Re: Cooling problem
Reply-To: atovorni@engr.UVic.CA
Organization: University of Victoria, Victoria, BC, Canada
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 92 23:15:46 GMT

   You guys driving Hondas and talking about cooling problems makes me want to
scream and yell, but that won't do any good. Writing this will. It is perfectly normal for the coolant temperature to INCREASE while driving in town. When the car stops and goes, accelerating repeatedly, this generates more heat than just keeping a steady
speed on the highway.

   What cools the coolant that cools the engine anyway? Air passing through the rad.
The amount of air passing through the rad is much greater while travelling on
the highway, so the coolant is cooler, and your temperature reading is lower.

   Now what about idling? Since the car isn't moving, less air gets through your rad.
The temperature goes up.

   Typical scenario: Start the car in the morning and the temp* reads low.
Get out on the open road after a few blocks, and it goes up a little. Get
into a traffic jam and it goes above half. Get past what clogs the road
and you're on the way again, now it goes down to about a quarter. Get to a city
and take an offramp. Drive in town a bit and up it goes again to just above half
(especially if you have to wait long at red lights.) If it doesn't go into
the red, not to worry.  Now, if a hose bursts, it goes into the red and
your coolant is all over the road.   

   It is also normal for the stuff to evaporate out of the overflow canister.
This is alright. That canister only keeps the coolant from splashing all over the road if your engine really overheats. Mine's always dry. The way to really check
your coolant is to remove the rad cap and look into the rad. Mine's always
full, even if the plastic can is empty. Never do this with a hot engine. 
Check it when the car has not been running for three hours.

   A fluctuating temperature needle is normal, and so is coolant "disappearing"
from the canister. Neither of these are reasons to trade in your car. Generally,
if the car is a Honda, that's a good reason to trade it in anyway :=)

Andy.

PLEASE EXCUSE MY OBVIOUS IGNORANCE. 

Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: aefron@cornerstone.com (Andrew Efron)
Subject: Re: Try rec.autos!
Reply-To: aefron@cornerstone.com (Andrew Efron)
Organization: Cornerstone Research, Cambridge, Mass.
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 20:13:45 GMT

In article <1992Sep22.220324.7740@viewlogic.com>, brad@buck.viewlogic.com 
(Bradford Kellogg) writes:

> In article <1992Sep21.130828.14468@dg-rtp.dg.com>, eliot@chutney.rtp.dg.com 
> (Topher Eliot) writes:
> |> Do the very few people who use this newsgroup realize that there is a 
> |> "rec.autos" (notice the plural) that gets about 100 times as much 
traffic?
> |> 
> Do you ever get the feeling that the newsgroup you think you're posting
> to is actually rec.twilight.zone ?

Sounds like his news feed is messed up--as is mine right now.  Makes the 
postings seem a bit sparse...

Andy
From: dbernard@thewho.Central.Sun.COM (Dave Bernard)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: FWD vs. RWD, Which is best.
Date: 30 Sep 92 12:35:20 GMT
Reply-To: dbernard@thewho.Central.Sun.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems

A few people have said that the trend toward FWD is largely
influenced by economics.  How is this the case?

- Because FWD are lighter (short/no drive shaft), thus better
	CAFE figures?

- Because there is no long drive shaft to the rear... but isn't this
	offset by the complexity of assembling a FWD car?

I have to laugh at the TV commercial for the new Mercury minivan.
	They tout its FWD as giving it "nimbleness and agility,"
	and show it parallel parking- as  tho nimbleness and agility and
	parking were something conveyed by FWD.  I'll see that Merc's
	FWD nimbleness ang agility, and raise it by that of my Wrangler's RWD.
From: james@koko.csustan.edu (Jonas Grumpy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: GEO METRO
Date: 6 Oct 92 17:00:21 GMT
Organization: CSU Stanislaus

In article <1as2c3INN5f2@bigboote.WPI.EDU> beuf@wpi.WPI.EDU (Richard J Fuller) writes:
>
>
>FOR $6500 a Brand New Geo Metro is a real good value...
>the question is are people willing to sacrafice price for
>size and safety.....THAT IS A QUESTION THAT ALL CAR ENGINEERS and
>companies would kill to know the answer to...
>
>I DO NOT OWN A GEO METRO but I do OWN a GEO Storm....
>
>THe Storm is BUILT by ISUZU Motors in JAPAN (IT says so inside the
>drivers door) 
>In defense of the GEO LINE 
>	1. THEY ARE JAPANESE NOT AMERICAN
>	2. THEY ARE RELATIVELY CHEAP
>	3. THEY HAVE A STYLE OF THEIR OWN
>		-I bought a storm mostly on looks obviously not power
>	4. They are fairly good when it comes to feul efficiency 
>
>	as far as livign through an accident...
>
>	well I Saw a demolished Geo STORM in a junkie and I can
>	say that I hope that I never get nto an accident.......
>	
>	but almost all cars in this price range are 'deathtraps'
>	I dare you to name one car under $10,000 that is very
>	safe....
>


   How about a VW Fox. At least it has crumple zones. How about a dodge
  shadow.
-- 
C MYSIG  ASIG4U 1RADSIG 2BADSIG SIG U 2     U R SIG   1SIGDOG    ADOTSIG

Vanity .sigs, now only $35     
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: rll@fatima.mitre.org (Roberto L. Landrau)
Subject: Re: FWD vs. RWD, Which is best.
Organization: Research Computer Facility, MITRE Corporation, Bedford, MA
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 11:51:26 GMT

In article <12110056@hpmwga7.sr.hp.com> markg@hpmwtd.sr.hp.com (Mark Goldsworthy) writes:
>
>The Diamante is a FWD car in its base model,

Yes.

> and AWD in the top of the line model.

No.  You are confusing the  Diamante ($20-30k sports sedan) with the
Galant ($13-22k midsize).  There are no AWD Diamantes, yet.  There may
be one coming in the future (maybe they will take some parts from the
3000GT and stuff them into the Diamante) in an attempt to compete with
Audi and MB.
--
The opinions stated above are not necessarily my employer's.
----------------------------------------------------------------
Roberto L. Landrau    KC1YP    landrau@mitre.org  rll@linus.mitre.org
The MITRE Corporation  Bedford, MA 01730          rll@linus.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: karun@faline.bellcore.com (N. Karunanithi)
Subject: Need Price infor on 1993 Toyota Corollas
Reply-To: karun@faline.bellcore.com (N. Karunanithi)
Organization: Bellcore MRE
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 92 21:55:20 GMT

 Could some body give me details/pointers about how to find 1993 Toyota Corollas?
I know about 82 models. The 1993 model has been updated from a subcompact to
compact car and all carry driver side airback. Apart from that the
DX and LX models have 115 HP rather than 102 HP of the basic model.
Also looks much better than the 1992 version.
I need opinion on the Invoice price for the car without options,
with options such as A/Ci and Casette.

Thanks in advance!
-Karun
From: ai065@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Thomas Hill)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Castrol Syntec???
Date: 2 Oct 1992 03:05:52 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc10.ins.cwru.edu


   I was curious about those new ads for that Castrol Syntec oil, so I picked
up a pamplet on it. This is a synthetic oil with no PTFE (Slick 5) in it, but
it does use a charged (-) formula which sticks to the positive (+) charge of
the internal engine parts. Looks good on paper. It is said to keep a thin
film of oil on your engine for startups this way. Also, because of it's
synthetic base, it offers "the best" protection on the market. Talked to a
guy who said he gets 4+ more miles per gal. Castrol GTX has always proven to
be a quality oil for me. It seems to stay clear longer and resist thining
better than any normal oil I've used. I think this new Syntec may be the oil
for me. Any remarks on this new oil? How does it compare to Mobile 1, Slick
50, and any other quality oils or treatments? This is not an oil treatment,
however. It is to be used just like any other synthetic oil.
-- 
George Bush? He doesn't have a clue anymore. Bill Clinton? A slick smile and
a pandering style. Neither one is being realistic about what it is going to
take. The answer..........? ROSS FOR BOSS! VOTE FOR ROSS PEROT FOR PRESIDENT!
The Cryptozoology Information Network. Want on our Email mailing list? Amiga!
From: bruno@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Bruno Melli)
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 16:56:06 GMT
Subject: Re: Paint on Chrysler's LH(Last Hope) models
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA
Newsgroups: rec.autos

> Maybe in a few years, we'll have more data on the LH to base 
> reliability info on.

Don't need to wait for a few years. 
TIME magazine reported that they had a recall on the LH because 
of a piston shattering and locking the engine. 
They also mentionned that they had an earlier recall (can't remember for 
what but it was a fairly minor problem) which was not a big deal
at the time because there were less than 500 LH in circulation.

Now I can understand bugs in a new car but pistons shattering ???
Seems to me that you really need to be patriotic to buy one of the early
models...

bruno.


Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: shridhar@dewey.udel.edu (Kartik Shridhar)
Subject: Opinion on 1992 Acura Integra wanted
Keywords: acura integra ls opinion 
Organization: University of Delaware, Newark
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 00:42:48 GMT


I am looking for a 92 Acura Integra LS
                   4 Dr with Air Conditioner

Could any one give me a good price for this. Including
invoice + dealer profit.
 How much should I take off from the price if
they can give me a demo model with about 1500 miles on it.

 
Please send mail to 
    shridhar@cs.udel.edu


Thanks Kartik
From: erich.lim@cutting.hou.tx.us (Erich Lim) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: WANTED:DINAN CHIP OR INFO
Date: 2 Oct 92 14:42:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: The Cutting Edge - Houston, TX - 713-466-1525
Reply-To: erich.lim@cutting.hou.tx.us (Erich Lim) 

-> Does naybody know how much the Dinan chip will cost? How many
-> horsepower it will deliver? Will it burnout the engine? Will it pass
-> smog? Is it easy to replace? How much does it cost and where can I
-> buy it? Does anyone have one used that theu want to sell?


  The Dinan chip for the Integra gives an average increase of 14% on
low-end torque and increase horsepower from 130 to 148 @ 6000rpm.
There is a 22 horsepower gain at 7000 rpm and 18 horsepower gain at 6000
rpm.  The chip costs $395 and it is legal in all 50 states, and pass all
emissions and smog tests.  You must use Super Unleaded (92 octane).
Dinan must install the chip because of the way the ECU is made.   You
can purchase the chip either by exchanging your ECU for a Dinan modified
ECU, or by sending your ECU to Dinan for installation.


Erich Lim
erich.lim@cutting.hou.tx.us
                                       
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: eliot@lanmola.engr.washington.edu (eliot)
Subject: Re: PC's vs. Mac's... was: FWD vs. RWD, Which is best.
Organization: clearer than blir
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1992 05:33:17 GMT

In article <1211@xlnt.COM> david@xlnt.com (David Johnson) writes:
>	Just what is the difference between AWD and 4wd?

marketing.  all-wheel drive is a phrase coined by the marketeers to
mean permanent 4wd, while "4wd" by itself traditionally implied part
time 4wd and conjured up images of locking hubs, transfer cases and
several transmission shifters.  if a normal passenger sedan or sports
coupe was sold as "4wd", the joe blow on the street is going to get
mighty confused.  "can it haul 50 pounds of corn feed to my cows in
the fields when it gets wet and muddy?"  i think that there was a
legitimate need to differentiate cars like the Eagle Talon with cars
like the old Subaru 4x4's.  (the legacy, however is quite wonderful
despite the agricultural reputation of the marque)


eliot
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: CENG51@maccvm.corp.mot.com (Craig Witkowski)
Subject: Re: FWD vs. RWD, Which is best...in snow
Organization: Motorola
Date: 1 Oct 1992 07:14:57 CDT

>So, I'm not the only one who tried to get away without snows in one
>of these cars...I also have 245/50/16's and the first winter in my
>formula was wicked. No matter how lightly I stepped, I did doughnuts.

>I did the same thing as Ken, here, and I never got stuck in winter
>since. Besides, it saves wear on the gatorbacks which cost a couple
>of items of your anatomy to replace.

>Andy.

>PLEASE EXCUSE MY OBVIOUS IGNORANCE.

No apologies necessary.  My 87 Monte Carlo SS Aerocoupe has 215/65/HR15
Eagle GT+4 for cruising seasons, and in winter I switched to the
215/65/HR15 Eagle M+S.  I also have to go easy on the loud pedal when
starting off in snow,  or even when pulling out of those notorious
toll booths we have here in the NYC metro area when the roads are wet.

Fortunately my REAL car has seen less mileage since the company provides
wheels for work.  Unfortunately the work car is a Ford Taurus wagon (acckkk!)
which sucks handling wise, rain, snow or dry, compared to any RWD I've ever
been in.  I guess after driving a Winston Cup race car in driving school
I've been pretty much jaded on anything else on the road! ;-)

Craig Witkowski, CENG51@maccvm.corp.mot.com
From: pngai@adobe.com (Phil Ngai)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Civic SI clutch chatter
Date: 1 Oct 92 00:20:23 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated

I have an 86 Civic Si and it works perfectly. Clutch is fine, brakes
are fine. 106,000 miles. Brakes have been serviced once (new pads,
probably need to do it again), clutch has never been touched except
to adjust the cable (once). Regarding the brakes, I always use
a torque wrench on the lug nuts.

-- 
My opinions are my own.
Happy owner of a new Mitsubishi Expo.
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: eliot@lanmola.engr.washington.edu (eliot)
Subject: Re: PC's vs. Mac's... was: FWD vs. RWD, Which is best.
Organization: clearer than blir
Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1992 09:00:33 GMT

In article <1992Oct4.014725.5606@unlinfo.unl.edu> summ50@cse.unl.edu () writes:

>	Also, the AWD (or 4WD ) BMW 3-series actually had a "4x4" badge
>	on the grill...

are you sure you are not referring to the "325ix" badge?  i have never
seen 4x4 badges on 325ix's ever.


eliot
From: tobias@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Steve Tobias)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: RPM vs MPG
Date: 6 Oct 92 11:10:24 GMT
Reply-To: tobias@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Steve Tobias)
Distribution: na
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD


    One of the auto rags did a comparison test of old and new Mustangs
as well as old and new Camaros. For the new models, the Mustang GT they
tested (2.73 ratio) turned around 1,500 rpm @ 60mph in fifth gear. The
Camaro (Z-28 I believe) had a ratio of around 3.5:1 and turned something
like 2,000 rpm @ 60mph in fifth gear. The engines were either exactly equal
or close in displacement (the GT was a 5 liter, 302 cubic inches, the Camaro
was either the same or slightly larger) (Note: Pardon my ignorance of
GM engines but they're not my favorite car maker to put it mildly).
Despite the large difference in RPM @ 60, the mpg figures were only 1
or 2 miles per gallon lower for the Camaro. Note that the tires were
almost identical (225-55ZR16 for GT, 235-55ZR16 for Camaro), in case
that would be a factor. My question: How can the mpg figures be so close
when the rpm @ 60 numbers are so different??? The only thing I can think
of is that the mpg figures weren't from cruising at a constant speed
in fifth (the auto rag didn't explain how they were derived).

						    Steve
From: zampicem@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Mike Zampiceni)
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 20:02:50 GMT
Subject: Re: Saab 900i Problems?
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.autos

I've found SAABs to be quirky, rewarding cars to drive that require a
considerable amount of maintenance. They tend to have a harsher ride,
particularly the turbos, but are great road cars that are safe and 
can carry a lot of stuff.
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: wcsintd7@alfred.carleton.ca (Peter Kuciak)
Subject: Looking for BMW owners ...
Keywords: BMW
Organization: Carleton University
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 13:24:33 GMT

Hello everyone, I have just bought a 1988 BMW 325ix AWD and would like
to talk to people who have this model in perticular or any of the
3-series BMW's.  Is there a special BMW group somewhere that I can ftp
and get the past messages from ?.  Just to share my experiences, the
car handles great and I can't wait for the snow to hit the ground :-).

peter,

wcsintd7@ccs.carleton.ca
From: dh3q+@andrew.cmu.edu (Daniel U. Holbrook)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Taurus engine racing
Date: 5 Oct 92 09:03:19 GMT
Article-I.D.: andrew.8eo7JL200iUx83GFdB
Organization: Doctoral student, History, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA

Hello there - 

A friend of mine owns a 1986 Taurus, 5 speed, 2.5 liter, 4 cylinder,
which I drive often.  It has developed a strange problem in the last few
months, and I hope someone out there can shed some light.

A few months ago, upon starting the engine one morning, it began to race
at approx. 4000 rpm, without the gas pedal being depressed.  I kicked
the pedal a few times, thinking that the linkage was stuck, or something
like that, and that worked.  The next time I started the car, it
happened again, but kicking the throttle did not help.  Turning the
engine off and restarting it several times made the problem go away. It
then did not recur for some time.  Last spring, it started to happen
again, with no discernable pattern, i.e. the engine did not need to be
hot, cold, warm, it happened in the rain, on hot days, with and without
the headlights on, etc.  Soemtimes it would help for me to open the hood
and manually open and close the throttle, but this did not work always.

At this point I had pretty well ruled out anything mechanical like the
linkage (which I had by then lubed).  I thought it might be the cruise
control going bonkers, so I unhooked the little chain that connects it
to the throttle.  This appeared to solve the problem, as it did not
recur for a couple of months.

Now it has started to happen again, and none of the previous things has
helped, though my friend says that a couple of times, tapping the brake
pedal repeatedly has made the engine stop racing!!  It is obviously not
the cruise control, as it is still unhooked.  My current thoughts are
some sort of engine management system foul-up, maybe tracable to some
sensor somewhere.  

Any ideas, suggested tests, etc?   This is a potentially dangerous
situation, since it starts doing it sometimes in the middle of traffic,
and unpredictably.

Thanks,  Dan
Newsgroups: rec.autos,rec.autos.tech