HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au (Paul Repacholi)
Subject: Re: Canon EOS accessories question...
Organization: Curtin University of Technology
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 12:10:00 GMT

In article <1992Jul24.091902.9591@waikato.ac.nz>, atc@waikato.ac.nz writes:
> Can someone please tell me what the following EOS accessories actually do?
> 
> Transistor Pack E

It's for the 430EZ. It plugs into the base and provides faster recycle and more
shots per battery set. Uses C cells from memory, or a special NiCd set.

> 
> Macro Lens Mount FD to EOS
> Which lenses is this useful for?
> 
I have seen FD to EF converters, and the EF macro life-size converter ( to get
the 50mm macro to 1:1 ) but this is a new one on me.. A guess would be the 
the 50mm FD macro. You need to check carefully on this. The FD-EF converter
tech note has a 2 page list of lenses that will and won't work with it.

~Paul
From: mcovingt@athena.cs.uga.edu (Michael A. Covington)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Focal length rip-off. Coincidence?
Date: 27 Jul 92 02:46:34 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: University of Georgia, Athens

In article <1992Jul25.195000.5023@eskimo.celestial.com> wix@eskimo.celestial.com (Dennis Wicks) writes:
>In article <18590@drutx.ATT.COM> chuck@drutx.ATT.COM (LucianoC) writes:

>>Have you ever put a ruler to a 2 by 4?

> No, they call it dimensioned lumber.  It is rough cut to full 2x4
> and planed to the finished size.  And all 2x4s are the same size!
> Maybe the lense mfgrs are rough grinding to stated f.l. and then
> finish grinding and polishing to what ever they can get!

That happens with custom-made and small-production-run optics (I once
had a 48-inch-focal-length telescope that was really 51 inches, and
marked as such by the person who did the final testing). But I doubt
there is much unit-to-unit variation with mass-produced lenses.

-- 
==========================================================================
Michael A. Covington, Ph.D. |  mcovingt@uga.cc.uga.edu  |  ham radio N4TMI
Artificial Intelligence Programs | U of Georgia | Athens, GA 30602  U.S.A.
==========================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: donl@glass.esd.sgi.com (donl mathis)
Subject: Re: shutterbug
Reply-To: donl@glass.esd.sgi.com (donl mathis)
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc., Mountain View, CA, USA
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 17:07:37 GMT


In article <64588@hydra.gatech.EDU>, gt6692b@prism.gatech.EDU
(ROBERTSON, SCOTT L.) writes:
|> Could someone please tell be where to get a copy (or subscription if
necessary)
|> of Shutterbug? Thanks...

For those who don't know -- Shutterbug is a large magazine filled
primarily with advertisements for used equipment.  Many are dealer ads,
but there is also a (steadily shrinking) classified section in the back
for personal sales.  There is also editorial content, most of which is
of limited value (or often just plain wrong) in my opinion.  Overall,
if you want to by used equipment, this is an important resource.

	shutterbug
	P.O. Box 1209
	Titusville, FL 32781-9989

	1-800-327-9926, mon-fri 8-5 EST.
	Florida 1-407-268-5010

- donl mathis at Silicon Graphics Computer Systems, Mountain View, CA
donl@sgi.com
From: jay@metran.UUCP (Jay Ts)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: E-6 with NO Jobo (Was: E-6 in Jobo)
Date: 27 Jul 92 05:50:03 GMT
Organization: Metran Technology, Tampa, Florida

goldis@news.weeg.uiowa.edu (Al Goldis) writes:
: In <211@metran.UUCP> jay@metran.UUCP (Jay Ts) writes:
: 
: >Does anyone have enough experience with this method to warn me of some of
: >the pitfalls, or better yet, offer some advice?
: 
: Like Nike says, "just do it".  I'm sure you are plenty competent to
: achieve good results.

Hmm, flattery :-)

: Many people seem to have phobias about color
: processing that I think are unwarranted.
: First of all, the Jobo I use doesn't really maintain temperature that
: well.  Second, you don't have to be as exact as you think.  Here are
: a few temperature tolerances for small tank processing:
: 
: First developer   100.4F +/- 0.5F   38C +/- 0.3C
                           ^^^^^^^^
That, of course, is what I'm worried about.

: I don't really think a larger 1st dev. temperature variation will
: make much difference.  I could be wrong, but it seems to me that the
: main reason for 1st dev. accuracy is consistent density.

I am worried more about color shift and even more about crossover.

: If you think
: about what the 1st dev. does, it doesn't seem like small time/temp.
: variations will do much besides change the overall density (wild
: variations aside).

The thing is, the 1st developer basically defines the final image; it
develops the "lack of image", and the color developer fills the positive
image in.  As I understand it (?), the trick is in making sure each of the
three (or more?) emulsion layers receive the proper ratio of development.
If this does not happen correctly, there can be a color shift (from one
layer becoming uniformly denser) or crossover (from a layer having a 
different contrast index).

I suppose that as long as each emulsion layer is at the same temperature,
and there are no large variations in temperature along the sheet/roll of
film, it may not be a problem, and would be possible to compensate by
modifying the development time as you suggest.  However, I am not sure
if this is the case.

What I am really trying to figure out is, when Kodak says +/- .5 degree,
what level of quality are they aiming for?  I suppose it is the kind of
variation that one needs a densitometer and color analyzer to detect, which
does not matter to me right now.  I just want to know how much can I stray
from the official recommendations before I run into quality problems that
will be perceptible (either objectively or subjectively) to mortal humans.
Or are humans more sensitive than expensive lab equipment? ;-)

Jay Ts
From: fred-mckenzie@ksc.nasa.gov (Fred McKenzie)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Photographic Software
Date: 21 Jul 92 19:56:50 GMT
Followup-To: rec.photo
Distribution: world
Organization: NASA/Kennedy Space Center, Florida

Does anyone know of any anonymous-ftp sites on internet, that have
photographic software available for download?

fred-mckenzie@ksc.nasa.gov
From: sog@craycos.com (Steve Gombosi)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: New Nikon Equipments.  Nikinos RS & SB-104
Date: 31 Jul 92 03:06:47 GMT
Organization: Cray Computer Corporation

In article <d2pmgh-.hchong@netcom.com> hchong@netcom.com (Hoi Chong) writes:
>From article <1992Jul29.025237.1@cc.curtin.edu.au>, by zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au (Paul Repacholi):
>
>What is going on?  Do they think we are made of gold?  I am still paying
>for my F4s!
>
>How much did F2 cost?  I remember when F3 just came out, I could get it
>for US$600.  Now we have paid somewhere between $1,500 and $2,000  for
>the F4s, 

When the F3 came out, the Y->$ exchange rate was over 300 yen to the dollar.
It is now barely 124 yen to the dollar. The cameras aren't any more expensive,
at least not in yen,the dollar just isn't worth anything anymore.

If you were to measure the price in yen (which is, after all, the 
currency Nikon uses to pay its workers and its suppliers), you'd find
that original F3 price = $600* 300 Yen/dollar = 180000yen.
F4 price = $1500 * 124 Yen/dollar = 186000 yen. 
They're only charging about 3.3% more for an F4 than they did for an
F3 10 years ago. I think a 3% price increase in a decade is hardly
unreasonable, especially considering the added functionality in the F4. 
Have US auto manufacturers, supermarkets, or landlords restricted themselves
to a 3.3%/decade rate of price change (I think that works out to about 0.2
% per year compunded.

>I thought that will be the highest it will go (let's keep Leica
>out for the time being).

A number of overseas equipment manufacturers have gone to great lengths
to absorb currency fluctuations. I don't think it's fair to blame them
for the mismanagement of the US economy, now is it? It's unfortunate that
the US is determined to become a third-world country, but it's not Nikon's
(or Leica's) responsibility to fix it.

>I have seen the photo of the new UW camera and flash.  They looked 
>impresssive... but not for a total of $7100!  Is there an hidden photo
>inflation going on we don't know about?

No, there's inept economic policy that you *do* know about ;-).

>
>What will F5 cost?  $5,000?  $10,000!!!!???? 

Beats me.

Steve
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: clev@cisco.com (Robert Clevenger)
Subject: Re: New Equipment Jitters
Organization: Cisco Systems
Distribution: rec
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 1992 00:58:31 GMT

In article <MAS.92Jul23201624@mipl8.jpl.nasa.gov> mas@mipl8.jpl.nasa.gov (Marc Sarrel) writes:

   A few days ago, I got via mail-order an 8008s and a 35-70 f/3.3-4.5
   AF.  I just noticed today that there is a bit of play in the focus
   ring when the lens is mounted on the camera and the camera is in
   either of the autofocus modes.  The amount of movement is small, but
   I'm worried.  To give you an idea of the amount of movement, one of
   the distance numbers on the focusing ring is free to move about the
   width of the white focusing mark.

Yeah, my N8008 that I've had for ~3 yrs has always been this way.
I doesn't seem to affect anything and my 28-85 did not get any worse.

   Also, as a side question.  Why did they make it so that the filter
   threads on the front of the lens turn when the lens focuses?  This is
   okay for solid filters, but I think it would mess you up if you wanted
   to use a filter with a gradient, for example...

And a polarizing filter.  You just have to learn to adjust the filter
after you (or the camera) focus.  I wish this was not the case but
considering everthing that I like about the 8008 this is a small price
to pay.

   --marc
   --
   Marc Sarrel			"Strange as it seems,
   Jet Propulsion Laboratory	 There's been a run of crazy dreams,
   mas@mipl8.jpl.nasa.gov		 And a man who can interpret could go far --
				    Could become a star."
From: hudson@pnet51.orb.mn.org (Hudson Leighton)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Old cameras (collecting)(Graflex)
Date: 20 Jul 92 12:45:01 GMT
Organization: People-Net [pnet51], Minneapolis, MN.

I have a  3 1/4 x 4 1/4 Graflex (one of the orignial SLRs).  As film
is no longer available I got it very cheap.  Digging through my parts
collection I found a brand new Graphlock back and my local old
camera guru grafted it onto the Graphflex. Had to adjust the mirror and
I waste a 1/4 in border on the neg but a very fun shootable camera.


UUCP: {crash tcnet}!orbit!pnet51!hudson
INET: hudson@pnet51.orb.mn.org
ICBM: Lat. 44.59 x lon. 93.13
HAM:  NONMX  444.100 repeater
Advertisement: Try the Railway Post Office BBS (612) 377-2197 a Railfan BBS
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: collier@lacerta.unm.edu (Michael Collier)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Medium format slide projector (Was: What's your favourite slide viewer?)
Date: 24 Jul 92 20:08:32 GMT
Organization: University of New Mexico, Albuquerque

In article <14oj0aINNpjo@iraul1.ira.uka.de> uli@i13d5.ira.uka.de (Uli Bodenhausen) writes:
>Before trying to convert a overhead projector, try to find a shop
>that sells Meopta gear from the CSFR. Mostly they are known for enlargers,
>but Meopta also produces a 6x6 slide projector, which sells for DM 300
>here in Germany.

i have a 6x6 projector brand-named "Prinz", made in "West Germany".
i picked it up used for $45. went for $90 new. matches the description
of the Meopta very closely (related?). works fine for simple previewing
against a sheet of bristol board and such. i haven't ever tried to use
it in a "presentation" against a larger surface.
-- 
Michael H. Collier        INET: collier@ariel.unm.edu   BITNET: COLLIER@UNMB
1160 Don Pasqual NW; Los Lunas, NM 87031; (505) 865 8770 / (505) 764 5320
"She was a blonde. The kind of blonde that would make a bishop kick in
	a stained glass window". - Raymond Chandler
From: tsai@theory.lcs.mit.edu (Pearl Tsai)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Nikon F2 for sale
Date: 21 Jul 92 18:35:38 GMT
Organization: Laboratory for Computer Science, MIT

I have a Nikon F2 with a 50mm/1.4 Nikkor lens that I no longer use.
The camera is in good condition and everything works except the 
shutter speeds below 1/60 of a second, which seem to all be mapped to
1/60.  (Bulb works).  I was told that this is because one of the geartrains
probably needs a new gear and would cost about $70 to fix.
I never used a tripod with the camera, so it wasn't really an issue.
Is there anyone who would be willing to buy the camera as is?
I will consider any offers as I have no need for it.
Also included would be a nice strap, fitted camera case, and hot shoe
converter (which lets you use a modern flash with it).
I would also be curious to know how much I could expect to get for it
if I had the problem fixed (i.e., would it be worth the time and hassle
to get it fixed and then try to sell it, or should I just continue to let
it sit in the closet).  Also, does anyone know of a good place to get
such a repair done in the Boston area?

Thanks for the advice!

-- Pearl Tsai
tsai@theory.lcs.mit.edu
From: kar@cs.rit.edu (Kenneth A Reek)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Consider Plastic Was: fiberglass/wood sinks for home darkrooms
Date: 29 Jul 92 01:54:27 GMT
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology, Rochester, NY

In article <18705@drutx.ATT.COM> chuck@drutx.ATT.COM (LucianoC) writes:
>I built a custom darkroom sink using 1/4 inch PVC plastic. ...

	A few years back, Darkroom Photographer magazine had an article on
building a darkroom sink.  I thought it was the first good article they
published after changing management (but that one was not sufficient to get
me to renew my subscription).

	If anyone is really interested, I could dig up the issue date.
--
Kenneth A. Reek				kar@cs.rit.edu
Rochester Institute of Technology	rutgers!rochester!rit!kar
From: gsnow@clark.edu (Gary Snow)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: West coast stores? Advise PLS
Date: 27 Jul 92 19:00:38 GMT
Article-I.D.: clark.1992Jul27.190038.5165
Organization: Clark College, Vancouver, Wa.  USA

In article <1992Jul26.183851.1@cc.curtin.edu.au> zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au (Paul Repacholi) writes:
>
>Could any one advise me on good West coast ( LA, SF ) photo stores
>who do mail order. My wife is going to the US in about 5 weeks time, and
>I want to get some Canon gear and have her bring it back. Close to LAX
>or SFO would be a plus... Minnesota would be another poss.
>Thanks in advance.

Not in LA, SF, or Minnesota, but its a west coast store.  Camera World or
Oregon.

Gary

-- 
-----
Gary Snow
uunet!clark!gsnow  or  gsnow@clark.edu
From: victor@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (V Menayang)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: AF/AE vs. Manual aka All That Jazz
Keywords: opinions
Date: 22 Jul 92 15:27:08 GMT
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin

In article <70275@apple.Apple.COM> chuq@Apple.COM (Chuq Von Rospach) writes:
>rao@ccu.umanitoba.ca (Govindaraju Rao) writes:
>>   Bruce Wilson writes:
>> >...I just don't want to spend the money, if its not worth it...
>>  
>>Its not worth it.
>
>This is a religious issue. The people who grew up without AF/AE are gonna
>tell you that real photographers don't use AF/AE, and us scummy AF/AE users

This is simply not true.  I used an F3 and an FM for more than ten years
and just recently switched to an auto-everything camera.  If you ask
me I wouldn't go back to an F3 (with only aperture-priority and manual
modes, NO WAY!:-).  Obviously, there's a lot of pros out there that think that
way, too.  That is why Canon released EOS-1 and Nikon  released F4S.
But the other posters are right, most of these converted pros are
action-oriented photographers, usually sports people..


-victor
-- 

-------------------------------------------------------------
Victor Menayang                     victor@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu 
=============================================================
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: bu890@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Brian Segal)
Subject: Re: Spot meters
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio, (USA)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 92 12:06:39 GMT


The Minolta Spotmeter F is actually very good for a number of applications.

If you require a number of comparative readings you just take your
mid-tone reading and push the A for averaging button, and all subsequent
readings will be shown as plus or minus that reading..yes, you have to
remember things, but bear in mind that even with the Sekonic, all you have
\in the memory is a bunch of numbers, you still have to remember
which parts of the iamge they refer to....

As far as accuracy is convcerned, the Spotmeter F is dead on and I have
used in in high flare backlit situations with ease and reliable results.

brian
From: duli@boulder.Colorado.EDU (Li Du)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Nikkor 180mm f2.8
Date: 27 Jul 92 06:14:00 GMT
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder

In article <1992Jul24.23372@makesys.com> john@makesys.com (John Turman) writes:
>I am considering the purchase of a 180mm f2.8 Nikkor [ ...... ]
>My current standby for portraits is a Nikkor 135mm f2.0 AIS. I'm
>thinking that the 180 may just give me a little more dramatic
>separation of subject to background than the 135 does.
	Does a 180/2.8 lens produce more seperation of subject from
	background than does a 135/2.0 lens? A rough computation shows
	that, when used wide open, the two lenses have about the same 
	DOF at same magnification. I haven't seen a photographer who
	owns both 135/2 and 180/2.8. Assuming the same optical quality,
	then what's the advantage of choosing a 180/2.8 over a 135/2?
	
---------------------------------
 Li Du | duli@prony.colorado.edu
---------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: dougb@ecs.comm.mot.com (Douglas Bank)
Subject: Re: SB-24/wedding (Re: AF/AE vs. Manual aka All That Jazz)
Organization: Motorola., Inc.
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 14:50:11 GMT
Followup-To: rec.photo

In article <9!gm26b.hchong@netcom.com>, hchong@netcom.com (Hoi Chong)
wrote:

> Now how do you use SB-24 for vertical shot?  Presumably, I would want
> bounced flash *all the time*.   oes the SB-24 has a cardboard bounce accessary
> like the old Vivitar 285?  Is there any (cheap) way I can enable ceiling
> bounced flash even on vertical shot?

The SB-24 flash head rotates 270 degrees, so you can always bounce of the 
ceiling, even if the camera is pointed straight down.  You can use the same
cheap cardboard bounce accessories if you want.  Just put a little velcro
on the flash head.

My question is, what do you do when you want to shoot verticals when using
a stroboframe bracket.  The flash head zooms with the lens.  If I am 
shooting a vertical with a 50mm lens, the flash is still oriented
horizontally.  Will the flash still cover the entire picture? or should
I always set the flash at 28mm or 35mm?

---
Doug Bank                       Private Systems Division
dougb@ecs.comm.mot.com          Motorola Communications Sector
dougb@nwu.edu                   Schaumburg, Illinois
dougb@casbah.acns.nwu.edu       708-576-8207
From: jim@n5ial.chi.il.us
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Long lenses
Date: 24 Jul 92 18:19:52 GMT
Reply-To: jim@n5ial.chi.il.us
Organization: me?  have you seen my desk?  : -)
Originator: jim@eddie

In article <1992Jul22.172806.8629@informix.com> neilw@informix.com
(Neil Williams) writes:
>In article <38.2A6B9C68@terrabit.FIDONET.ORG>
David.Dyer-Bennet@p0.f341.n282.z1.FIDONET.ORG (David Dyer-Bennet) writes:
>>
>> AK> Don't bother with 300mm unless you're prepared to bring a tripod too,
>> AK> and use it.  My tests at shorter focal lengths lead me to believe that
>> AK> anyone who claims to be able to hand-hold a 300mm lens, even at 1/500,
>> AK> is either lying or has low quality standards.  At some point I will
>> AK> try it myself and then I'll know for sure.

oh, so you haven't tried it, eh?  hmmmm....you seem awfully sure of yourself
for someone who is basically guessing.

>>I must have low quality standards.  I hadn't previously suspected it,
>>though.

>but I must say that so
>far I agree with the 2nd poster (David?) that hand-holding
>below 1/500 yields agreeable results.

I'd have to agree on that, too.  I just bought (about 2 weeks ago, now)
a 60mm -- 300mm zoom for my Pentax K-1000.  this lens just happens to
weigh about 1/2 to 2/3 what my 80mm to 200mm weighs.  the lighter weight
certainly helps steady the lens, relative to my 200mm.

ok, so we know that it will be more critical because it'll take less
movement to cause problems.  but your claim that it doesn't work, period,
is, IMHO, not true.  period.  maybe you have problems holding the lens
steady in general?

the rule I was always taught was to consider 1/(focal length) as the
longest exposure for hand-held shots.  so, going by that rule, 1/300th
would be the longest you'd want to go.  of course, when you round off to
a setting on the camera (my camera, at least) you find yourself using
1/500th or 1/1000th.

   --jim

\input std_disclaimer                     % 73 DE N5IAL (/9)
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"[...] the plural of `mongoose' ought to be `polygoose'." [Jargon file 2.9.10]

INTERNET:  jim@n5ial.chi.il.us  |  grahj@gagme.chi.il.us  |  j.graham@ieee.org
UUCP:  gagme!n5ial!jim@clout.chi.il.us
AMATEUR RADIO:  n5ial@n9hsi (Chicago.IL.US.Earth)
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: hchong@netcom.com (Hoi Chong)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: SB-24/wedding (Re: AF/AE vs. Manual aka All That Jazz)
Date: 22 Jul 92 23:52:31 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest)

From article <22583@oasys.dt.navy.mil>, by goldberg@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Mark Goldberg):
> I had a recent job to photograph an 1-year old child and her parents.
> I used a photojournalistic approach, rather than the stiff portrait
> studio approach.  She was at play with a Little Tykes car.  I used the
> 8008s with SB-24 flash in the 1-stop-under fill mode for some shots
> with my 180mm AF ED lens.  Others were done with the 300mm F4 ED AF.
> EVERY SHOT was properly expopsed and focussed - all 37!

I was going to start a new thread about possibly buying SB-24, but since
you already mentioned SB-24...


Now how do you use SB-24 for vertical shot?  Presumably, I would want
bounced flash *all the time*.   oes the SB-24 has a cardboard bounce accessary
like the old Vivitar 285?  Is there any (cheap) way I can enable ceiling
bounced flash even on vertical shot?
 
What is the current price for S -24?  CWOO wants $254 (the same old
"have stock (until they get your order)" but I am afraid they might call
back and say check-and-found-no-stock).  I called Los Gatos Photo and
they want only $249 (no stock, one or 2 week), but, was there some negative
story about the shop in the past?  (OK, I will stay away from SJ Photo).
LZ Premium don't have stock and do not know when it will come in.
 
It has been a while (to put it mildly) since I did wedding, anybody care
to review all the old tricks?
 
I have a 24-50Nikkor AF and a 80-200Nikkor ED AF, wonder if using the
24-50 most of the time is wise?  I also have access to a 35-70/3.3-4.5
Nikkor AF, but assume that it is in a different class than the 24-50,
is that right?  If so, should I consider using it at all?  Or should I just
dump them all and use the 80-200 all the time togather with my FM2n with 
28/2.8 Nikkor MF?  In that case, then I probably need another flash, or maybe 
do "natural" light for the wide-angle? 

Any help is appreciated. 
Newsgroups: rec.photo