HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: randyn@tekig5.pen.tek.com (Randall B Newton)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Braking: Use brakes or transmission ?
Date: 5 Apr 92 17:58:08 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Beaverton,  OR.

In article <-xlj!2j.pauly@netcom.com> pauly@netcom.com (Paul Yoshimune) writes:
>Well, I've always been a fan of downshifting through the gears, if only to
>keep the car in its powerband.  Then, if the need should arise, I could make
>and emergency move, or power out of the turn, or whatever.  My friend put it
>in another perspective: Which is cheaper to replace - a clutch or brakes?
>Good point...
>
>
>-- 
>-Paul Yoshimune [pauly@netcom.com]

It is typically a good rule of thumb to maintain control of the vehicle using
power and not the brakes.

Transmission equals performance and handling.  Brakes equal economy of scale
and minimal amount of control.

Regards,

Randy

Standard Disclaimer:  These are solely my opinons.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: RE: OCTANE REDUCES PINGIN
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 13 Apr 92 16:16:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * Jacksonville AR USA * 501-985-0059

-> Only one manufacturer that I know of (maybe there's more by now) does
-> get more power from higher octane fuel. On the Turbo SAAB's of the
-> last 5 years or so, the turbo boost is increased until the knock
-> sensors detect pre- ignition, then back off a little bit. This cycle
-> is continuously repeated.

 Most GM engine management systems have done this for several years.  I
have a friend with a Corvette that picks up nearly a second in the
quarter mile going from 87-octane to 93-octane.
From: frankb@hpsad.sad.hp.com (Frank Ball)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 1034 vs. 1157
Date: 10 Apr 92 00:12:10 GMT
Organization: HP Signal Analysis Division - Rohnert Park, CA

*What's the difference between a 1034 and a 1157 stop/tail bulb?


1034	1.8 Amps @ 12.8 Volts 200 hours (brake light)	
	.51 Amps @ 14.0 Volts 3000 hours (tail light)

1157	2.1 amps @ 12.8 Volts 600 hours (brake light)
	.59 Amps @ 14.0 Volts 5000 hours (tail light)

The 1157 bulb is the "heavy duty" version.  It is the same brightness
as the 1034, but less efficient.  It is more vibration resistant than
the 1034.  Different manufacturers catalogs seem to show slightly 
different numbers.
	
Frank Ball   2LR-D             frankb@hpsad.sad.hp.com
Hewlett Packard                pyramid!hplabs!hpsad!frankb
1212 Valley House Drive        (707) 794-4168 work  (707) 538-3693 home
Rohnert Park CA 94928-4999     KC6WUG Seca 750 XT350 IT175 I'm the NRA.
From: johnson@wrs.com (David Johnson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: trivia answer WAS: Re: Turbocharger VS. Supercharger.
Date: 9 Apr 92 23:40:33 GMT
Organization: Wind River Systems, Inc.

And for more trivia:

What was the original 6-71 developed for?

Hit <SPACE BAR FOR ANSWER>






















It was originally developed by GM as a low-cost compact engine for the
"disposable" landing crafts of WWII.

>DAVE (johnson@WRS.COM)
From: gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca (Andy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: SHO Transmission oil capacity
Date: 7 Apr 92 16:21:50 GMT
Distribution: dal
Organization: Math, Stats & CS, Dalhousie University, Halifax, NS, Canada

In <7360@brchh104.bnr.ca> jcyuhn@brchh467.bnr.ca (James Yuhn) writes:

>In article <1992Mar30.163929.8043@engage.pko.dec.com>, sontakke@helix.enet.dec.com (Vikas Sontakke) writes:
>|> 
>|> Before I decide to order Redline MTL directly from the manufacturer (alas, no
>|> cheaper sources were found), can someone tell me exactly how many quarts do I
>|> need?
>|>
>|> If you have personally replaced the transmission oil in SHO, can you tell me
>|> how many qts does it take, under 3 or over 3?
>|>
>|> Vikas Sontakke		Digital Equipment Corporation, Maynard MA.

>   It's under three, way under three. I've changed my SHOs transmission 
>   fluid twice, and never even got close to needing three full quarts. 
>   Be sure to do a thorough job when draining the transmission. If you
>   only raise the front of the car, you'll discourage much of the fluid
>   from draining.
>  
>   Jim
Does anyone know how much you need for an 85'GTI?
Does anyone know if there is any Redline available in Eastern Canada?
If so where is it? 
Does anyone know the address of Redline so I can order directly from them,
if I can't get any around here.

Thanks!!!!
Andy
-- 
**************************************************************************
     ___                     "Igoddago, Takideezy & Guluk"        
    /...\___           gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca     goaway@ac.dal.ca
   |-O----O->                                   
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: zygfried@next09wor.wam.umd.edu (Michael Z. Peerand)
Subject: RE: rolling a car
Organization: Workstations at Maryland, University of Maryland, College Park
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 20:49:07 GMT

>How to roll a car:
>
>Get going at least 40 mph.

You need to be going a lot faster then that my friend. 

> Enter the batmobile turn manuever.

That would help!

>  When the car
>is completely sideways, mash on the brake pedal hard.  Lean over onto the
>passenger's seat and hook your right arm under the glove box.
>
>I haven't tried this and I don't advocate it.  Don't do it!
>
>
>-- 
>Fan mail may be sent to:
>zardoz@rx-db.hf.intel.com
  
  A better way to roll a car, by someone who knows:



 	One day a friend and I decided we wanted to roll my Car (might of  
been a dumb idea but it was fun). Any how you see I had this beat up old  
Baja Bug (YES VWs RULE!!) with a full roll-cage (complimants of an over  
protective father). Well as you can see it was a perfect car to roll if  
one wants to rule a car that is. Not untill our third straight day of  
trying  did we get her to roll and that was by going around 65 mph and  
turning very sharply into an irrogation ditch. We tried everthing to get  
her to turn over and that was the only way we could do it. Rocking back  
and forth did as no good as was hitting the brakes as you suggested only  
caused us to start sliding sideways down the road.
	When we did finally get her to roll she did a complete roll and  
landed back on her feet. After cheaking the car (we left the motor  
running, hell if it could run during it why not afterwards) and finding  
everthing o.k. with it and ourselves, we drove her home. I'll never forget  
that ride.

P.S. My dad still wonders to this day how I managed to dent in the roof  
like that.

			-ZACH-
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ai065@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Thomas Hill)
Subject: Engine Temp Quickly "Surges" Up & Down
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio, (USA)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 92 17:15:05 GMT


   I was driving down the highway the other day with the engine temp right
where it should be in the middle of the temp gage. Suddenly the engine temp
climbed to the max level within a few seconds, stayed there for about two
minutes, and then slowly went back into the normal range. Is this a bad
gage or is something else wrong? Also, I changed the thermostat about four
months ago.

   Tom

 This is an 83 2.3 liter Ford engine.
-- 
    __ This ISN'T about lazy Americans. This ISN'T about being uncompetitive.
 __/// This ISN'T about Japan bashing.          This ISN'T EVEN about racism.
 \XX/  THIS *IS* ABOUT OPEN MARKETS AND JAPAN DOESN'T HAVE ONE!  BOTTOM LINE!
       The Cryptozoology Information Network  Want on our Email mailing list?
From: anrlk@acad2.alaska.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Ford Dealer Service II: part switching
Date: 16 Apr 92 23:58:14 GMT
Article-I.D.: acad2.1992Apr16.195814.1
Organization: University of Alaska

In article <1992Apr16.170124.11742@tandem.com>, bill@hood.Berkeley.EDU (Bill Norcott) writes:
> This is a really terrible experience.  I hope you have contacted the Ford regional office
> besides just your dealer.  It is definitely parts switching if you can establish that all the 
> engine parts originally came from the same batch, i.e. there should not have been parts
> from 5/88 in with 3/89.  I can't imagine why they would switch parts like that unless
> it was the following (and they were crooks): they decided that improper oil change
> voided the engine warrantee, and they wanted to make the engine look more damaged
> than it actually is so they could soak you for a major rebuild at your expense.
> 
> You did not say when the oil was last changed or by whom.  An oil filter gasket is an
> integral part of the filter, i.e., it's not that kind of thing where somebody could intall
> the filter with two gaskets.   What probably happened is that when the old filter was
> removed some of the gasket stuck to the engine block and whoever installed the new
> filter did not scrape off all the old one -- you have to do this.  Seems to me this was the
> cause of the engine failure.  If it was the dealer who changed your oil then they are 
> responsible for the engine damage.  If not you would probably have to go after whoever
> did the bad oil change, not the dealer or Ford. 
> 
> The flat rate system used by all the manufacturers for warrantee work limits the labor
> time they will get paid by the factory to do a repair.  This encourages part replacement
> under warrantee instead of diagnosis, since it is much quicker to just change a part than
> to figure out the cause of problem.   This does not mean that the mechanics are bozos
> who don't know how to diagnose a problem -- they don't do it because they are not
> getting paid to do it.  (They may or may not be bozos as well).  If you can show that the
> recommended procedure included changing the filter as well and they didn't do that,
> they share the blamed even if somebody else screwed up installing the filter (i.e.,
> it would have come to their attention before the real damage was done).  You or your
> lawyer should look at the Ford service manual to see if they should have changed the
> filter instead of just add oil.
> 
> I am very sorry this happened to you.
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------|
> Bill Norcott                    	GUARDIAN POSIX project
> Tandem Computers, Inc.		
> 10600 N. Tantau Avenue  	PHONE:  (408) 285-3253
> Cupertino, CA   95014           	EMAIL: norcott_bill@tandem.com
From: rspangle@tazdevil.llnl.gov (Randy Spangler)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Octane reduces pinging (was Re: Fuel octane versus power)
Date: 9 Apr 92 09:00:36 GMT
Organization: Lawrence Livermore National Laboratory


My Honda Civic (1.5L engine, 1980, 103,000 miles) made detonation-like
pings if I stepped hard on the gas while driving at 75+ mph.

When I finally got a timing light, I discovered that the timing was advanced
to 4 degrees ATDC, when my repair manual stated that it should be at 0 TDC.

So I retimed it, and the pinging disappeared, but so did most of my
acceleration at 65+ mph (no jokes about how there wasn't any
acceleration to begin with, please).

I decided I liked the extra power, and from what I've heard on this group,
it seemed I could advance my timing back to where it was, and use higher
octane gas, and it shouldn't ping as much.

After advancing back to somewhere 2-3 degrees ATDC and using 89 octane
instead of 87 octane, the pinging is negligible, and I seem to have more
acceleration at freeway speeds than I did originally.  My guess is that
I'm not losing any power to detonation now.

(BTW, the pinging comes back if I use 87 octane)

Another possibly relevant piece of information is that all 4 of my
cylinders compression test at 190 psi.  My repair manual states that over
200 psi is hard on the head gasket.  (But at least if this one busts, it's
gotta be easier than trying to ease the 150-pound valve cover back down on
the new valve cover of my ex-girlfriend's 352 V-8 :-)  Is my compression
ratio really 190 / 14 psi = 13.57?????  (That would certainly explain the
pinging...)

Is my reasoning more or less correct?  
	- Advancing timing can increase performance at freeway speeds
	- Advancing timing too far causes detonation
	- If my compression ratio is really that high, it's going to
	  tend to cause detonation
	- Using higher octane gas reduces detonation, since it burns
	  slower and more evenly

 --------------------------------------------------------------------------
|   Randy Spangler                   |   Get your mind out of the gutter   |
|   rspangle@tazdevil.llnl.gov       |   you're blocking my periscope      |
 --------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: pauly@netcom.com (Paul Yoshimune)
Subject: Re: VW tire lift....
Date: Wed, 08 Apr 92 07:41:52 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 

Actually, in my experience, the problem with Rabbits and such is that they have
exceptionally good grip.  This in itself is not a problem, but but there is so
much body roll, that while the suspension is doing its job, the rest of the
car is leaning incredibly hard, thereby pulling the inside tire.  Given the
amount of force pulling the car, the suspension tends to let go all at once,
when the absolute limit is reached.  This is when you have to start worrying
about rolling...

-- 
-Paul Yoshimune [pauly@netcom.com]
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mellum@skyler.mavd.honeywell.com
Subject: Re: Where to buy Car diagnostics computer???
Organization: Honeywell Systems & Research Center
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 18:02:25 GMT

In article <1992Apr15.115636.1@skyler.mavd.honeywell.com>, mellum@skyler.mavd.honeywell.com writes:
Oops, forgot to mention the cost, I paid about $250 for the scanner itself, and
the s/w module was approx $150. So total cost was approx $400.
From: mpv@ecl.psu.edu (Mike Rivkind)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Fake car alarms?
Date: 14 Apr 92 09:05:00 GMT
Organization: Engineering Computer Lab, Pennsylvania State University

Can fake car alarms be purchased?

I've that only about 5% of the cars that have a blinking light in the dash
(which suggests a car alarm) will emit a siren when the bumper is kicked very
hard.  This makes me think that those cars do not have a real car alarm.

Could the blinking light be something else?  Are these cars the spawn of
"Knight Rider"?


-- 

Mike Rivkind
mpv@ecl.psu.edu
Graduate Department of Aero Engg
Penn State University

"Quantum mechanics is stranger than science fiction." -- Gary Zukav
From: sjohnso@hfglobe.intel.com (Steven Johnson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Sick of vibrating wheel
Date: 15 Apr 92 21:38:54 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Development Tools Operation, Intel Corp., Hillsboro, OR

I've been following the thread on home brewed methods for
alignment (toe-in and camber etc.).  I've been having a 
problem with a wheel that I cannot seem to get any of 
the garages Big-O and the like to balance correctly.  It 
seems that it was only done right after I paid dearly for
a 4 wheel alignment.  There after whenever the tires are
rotated and balanced, there's always that same wheel that
never seems to get balanced and I can always tell where 
the unbalanced wheel is moved to.  

Is there a way I can correct this problem myself with
some decent accuracy?  Any help with correcting this
problem would be greatly appreciated as I am getting
sick of the annoying vibration from that one wheel.

I almost forgot, the car is a 1986 Nissan Sentra (made
in August 1985).  Stock wheels.  

Thanks for any information

Steven
From: borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1992 14:40:09 GMT
Subject: Re: Re: Freon Freeze! (now thermocouples)
Organization: Hewlett Packard Company, Spokane, Wa.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

Even if Peltier junctions matched the efficiency of conventional automobile
airconditioner systems, you would be still be talking about (easily) 2 hp
worth of electricity, roughly 1500 watts.  This is over 100 amps.  It is
in the range of what starter motors require.  Mucho current!


Donald Borowski    WA6OMI    Hewlett-Packard, Spokane Division
"Angels are able to fly because they take themselves so lightly."
                                       -G.K. Chesterton

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: schere@aix.rpi.edu (Edward David Schernau)
Subject: Re: How to disable the limiter in 1992 CIVIC DX
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy NY
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1992 18:37:58 GMT

120 mph isnt too hard to believe.  My 90 hp 200CID mustang with
105,000 will do 110, maybe a little more. The Civic is much lighter and more
aerodynamic (a brick is probably more aerodynamic than my car.)

$.02
Ed
schere@rpi.edu
From: erik@archimedes.nwc.navy.mil (Erik van bronkhorst)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: rolling a car
Date: 14 Apr 92 13:10:11 GMT
Organization: Naval Weapons Center, China Lake, CA

In article <1992Apr7.212938.11555@berlioz.nsc.com> alan@lancaster.nsc.com (The Hepburn) writes:
>In article <1992Apr6.200906.29231@cbnewsh.cb.att.com>, fwk@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (f.w.kerfoot..iii) writes:
>|> From my observations, it is difficult or impossible to roll most
>|> street cars by sliding them sideways. Exceptions include:
>|> 
>|> -Suzuki Samari's (as previously noted), some Jeeps, and other 
>|> exceptionally high and narrow cars
>|> 
>|> -anything which can "trip" the car as it slides- candidates might be
>|> curbs, anything soft which could build up in front of the wheels,
>|> such as sand, grass, dirt, etc. As another poster noted, if you
>|> get a tire off of the rim, the rim can do an exceptionally good job of
>|> piling up dirt, etc. and tripping the car.
>|> 
>|> If you watch autocrosses, showroom stock racing, etc, you will see
>|> a wide range of relatively typical street cars doing a lot of sliding
>|> sideways (including spins, etc) without tipping over. This includes
>|> ordinary street sedans (i.e. relatively tall) on pseudo-race tires
>|> like A008RS or Comp T/A R1. Just remember that that the probability of
>|> remaining upright while sliding sideways goes way down if you run
>|> out of smooth, hard surface (e.g. asphault).
>|> 
>
>Basically what it boils down to is:
>
>If your centre of gravity lies OUTSIDE your footprint, you will roll.
>
>
BZZZZT incorrect :-)
If the acceleration vector drawn from the cg points outside of the footprint
then you will rool.  One cannot construct an object with it's cg outside
of its footprint, it will roll over and then its cg will be inside
its "new" footprint.

-- 
Erik van Bronkhorst KC6UUT erik@rftech.nwc.navy.mil
DoD#4342585443 AMA#438054 "3.412 squid" "2.5 geezer"
From: dschneid@jacquard.ece.wisc.edu (Dan Schneidewend)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: HKS Turbo Kits
Date: 8 Apr 92 15:32:41 GMT
Article-I.D.: doug.1992Apr8.103242.3132
Organization: /usr/local/lib/organization

In article <1992Apr8.073945.17165@leland.Stanford.EDU> tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen) writes:
>In article <frank.02ow@terapin.com> frank@terapin.com (Chun Li) writes:
>>I have heard from my friend that HKS now makes Turbo systems for CRX/Civic Si
>>that will push the engine to about 200hp AND California legal.  Is this true?
>>

From the latest HKS catalog -

Civic Si 86-87 or CRX Si 65-87


179 HP from 91 HP stock

Required - Instrumentation, Turbo Exhaust, Electronic Boost Valve Controller,
Intercooler, Programmable Fuel Computer, Ignition Amplifier, Steel Head Gasket,
Electronic Govenor Controller, and last but not least the Turbo itself.

Recommened - New  clutch and flywheel

Cost -
Instrumentation ~ $160
Exhaust		~ $230
EVC		~ $610
Intercooler	~ $415
Fuel Comp.	~ $575
Ign. Amp.	~ $370
Head Gasket	~ $100
EGC		~ $600
Turbo	       ~ $2900

Clutch		~ $425
Flywheel	~ $280
+++++++++++++++++++++++
Total		 $6665 (Wow!)


I think I got everything, this is the full blown (pun intended) system,
they also offer lesser upgrade levels for the following hp:
120, 128, and 167. 

Dan
From: cm@cci632.cci.com (Carl Mercer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Big problem with a 1990 Toyoat 4x4 pickup
Keywords: Help!
Date: 8 Apr 92 15:36:57 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Computer Consoles Incorporated



This is a posting for a friend without net access.  Please respond to 
me and I will forward the results to him.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 

To all Toyota V6 truck owners (or anyone who has seen this problem)
 
I own a 1990 4x4 V6 Toyota pickup and I'm getting excessive carbon build-up 
on the valves and in the combustion chamber.  I first took it in to be     
looked at when it had 17K miles on it.  The dealer told me the problem was 
the gas I was using, MOBIL super unleaded.  They did a carbon flush at    
that time.  I switched to regular unleaded gas (Atlantic, Sunoco, Hess).  
I took it back in recently with 26k miles on it and have the exact same  
problem.  They again say it is the gas and that I need another carbon flush 
(this costs some bucks).  They also say that a carbon flush is part of the 
regular maintenance of the truck.  I have a problem with this since its not 
stated in any of the manuals that a carbon flush is needed on a regular basis.   
I am getting fed up with the dealers excusses, any information as to 
the possible problems and solutions for this I would be appreciated.
 
                                                          Bob McElroy
 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
NOTE:  I also own a 1990 Toyota V6 4x4 pickup.  I have 37k miles on it 
and I have never had, nor needed a carbon flush.  The plugs were changed 
2K miles ago and were a nice light gray/tan color.  I use the same gas as
Bob (hes, Atlantic).
From: borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1992 22:21:03 GMT
Subject: Re: loss of power, etc.
Organization: Hewlett Packard Company, Spokane, Wa.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

>In rec.autos.tech, jmansfie@zeus.calpoly.edu (Jason Mansfield) writes:
>
>Okay, I give up!  I can't figure out what's wrong with my car.

                       [Stuff Deleted]

>We pressurized #1 cyl at tdc to check if maybe the timing chain had
>jumped which theoretically would've been indicated by major air leakage --
>there was none. 
>- Jason - jmansfie@athena.calpoly.edu - The Cadillac Man -

Well, good try, but not good enough.  You have to realize that the intake
valve closes just shortly after bottom dead center, and that the exhaust
valve opens just before bottom dead center, so both valves are closed
for nearly 360 degrees rotation of the crank (and nearly 180 degrees
rotation of the cam).

Thus, you can be at top dead center, and the cam can be nearly 90 degrees
off, and you wouldn't know it by your test.  In other words, it can be
far enough off that the engine barely runs, and you couldn't tell from
your test.

Perhaps if you take the rocker arm cover off, and watch the rockers, you
will be able to tell where the cam is.  At top dead center, 360 degrees
away from where you were in the test you just did, the intake valve should
just be opening, and the exhuast valve just about closed.  There is some
asymetry there, but I am not sure if it is very much.  Perhaps someone
out there in Netland is more familiar with Caddy engines.


Donald Borowski    WA6OMI    Hewlett-Packard, Spokane Division
"Angels are able to fly because they take themselves so lightly."
                                       -G.K. Chesterton