HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com (Bob Rusk)
Subject: Re: Care and Feeding of Woodgrain Sides
Reply-To: rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com
Organization: Harris Computer Systems Division
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 21:18:01 GMT
	<1993Jan7.185429.15424@news.cs.brandeis.edu>

In article <1993Jan7.185429.15424@news.cs.brandeis.edu>, andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang) writes:

>In article <RRUSK.93Jan6164741@rcx1.ssd.csd.harris.com> I wrote:
>>OK, so after swearing in my teens that I'd never own such a beast, I've
>>come into posession of a Dodge Caravan with woodgrain sides.  Although
>>the exterior decor would not be my first choice, I'd really like to treat
>>it well and have it look presentable for a long time.  So, how does one
>>maintain woodgrain sides?
>>

>:-)
>1) Tung Oil once a year
>2) Pledge once a week
>3) Remove scratches with 00 steel wool and Olde English furniture
>polish

>Seriously, unless this is a 50's Woody, isn't the woodgrain about the
>same as auto paint and you treat it the same way (weekly washes in
>muddy water, seasonal spraying with salty water, occasional peanut
>butter finger painting)?

I'm sorry, I thought that "woodgrain" would make it clear that I didn't
mean real wood.  This stuff is like wood-grain contact paper only thinner.
And yes, that is my question exactly.  Do you wax this stuff, is there
some other kind of treatment you should put on it, etc.?

I remember back in the late 70's that the older Fords were having a
lot of problem with their woodgrain sides.  The finish was turning
milky.  More recently, a lot of the Caravan/Voyagers from the late
80's that have the woodgrain sides are having problems with the
finish peeling on the trim strips that surround the "wood".

So, how does one best care for fake imitation not-quite-real stick-on vinyl 
woodgrain on the exterior of a late-model minivan?

(Is that better?  ;^)

--
 Bob Rusk
 rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com
 My thoughts, probably not Harris'.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: LARRY@THEORY.PHYS.VIRGINIA.EDU (Larry Suddarth)
Subject: overheating Ford Van
Organization: DEPT. OF PHYSICS, UNIVERSITY OF VIRGINIA
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 19:13:18 GMT
X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.23

I have a '79 Ford E-150 van with 300 cu.in. 6 cyl, auto trans., PS, PB, AC.
It recently overheated drastically. (Water/antifreeze mix all over the engine
compartment!)  Since I could hear the bearings in the water pump, I decided
to replace it and, since they were 5 years old, also replace all hoses, belts,
and the thermostat.  After putting everything back together, when heating up, 
the temperature gauge kept going up into the overheat region.  I discovered mix
coming from the overflow hose, so figured I would replace the radiator cover as
well.  After all this, the temp. gauge now goes up almost to the overheat
region when warming up, then slowly drops to midrange, then back up, etc.  
Could the temp. sensor have gotten damaged by excessive heat?  Any ideas? 
Before now, the normal operating temp. was steady at about 30% of the full
range.  Obviously, something is not the same as before.



Larry T. Suddarth			larry@virginia.edu
University of Virginia			
Physics Department			I alone am responsible for the contents
McCormick Road				of my postings and mailings.
Charlottesville, VA 22901
(804)924-6784

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bowmanj@csn.org (Jerry Bowman)
Subject: Re: Carter Quadrajet?
Organization: University of Colorado Boulder, OCS
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 17:44:47 GMT

In article <1993Jan11.120653.460@hsh.com> lee@hsh.com (Lee Havemann) writes:
>In article <1993Jan10.170740.5731@nosc.mil>, koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz) writes:
>> In article <1993Jan09.033725.5851@eng.umd.edu> floyd@eng.umd.edu (Greg Butler) writes:
>>  
>>>Is that a typo?  Everyone knows Quadrajets are (were) made by
>>>Rochester, right?  That's what I thought until I picked one up
>>>the other day that had written on the side:
>>  
>>>     "MFD BY
>>>      CARTER
>>>      CARBURETOR
>> 
>> yep, I've seen 'em, I know someone that's got on on a '72 Pontiac Bonneville
>> with 455cid... yep, you *are* gonna have fun convincing parts-store counter-hlp
>> that you're not halucinating... but don't give up, the correct parts are
>> available, you just gotta look for 'em.
>> 
>> 
>> Walt K.
>
>Also installed on the 65 (-66?) Pontiac 396 engines... (had one on my '65 Bonny
>Ragtop).
>
      A Pontiac 396. Boy I'd like to see that!  Don't you mean 326 or 389?>-- 
>
> Lee Havemann, Comp Ops Dir.    HSH Associates      (201) 838-3330 
> Internet: lee@hsh.com    Compuserve: 70410,3507    AOL: HSH Assoc
> "Any opinions expressed are not necessarily those of anyone else, 
>  including myself."                     


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: overheating Ford Van
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 22:12:58 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 It sounds to me like there is no coolant flow adjacent to the thermostat
when it is closed. Perhaps there is a blockage in the heater core or the 
hoses, or the replacement water pump might not have the needed bypass 
line in the casting ( I dunno from Fords; been a long time since I've driven
one lately). See if there's a small neck either near the thermostat housing
or somewhere close by on the intake, head etc. - this should go to the
heater core, and that circulation lets the thermostat see average instead
of local temperature. Make sure there's flow when cold. If your rig has
one of those vacuum-operated coolant valves, see that the vacuum source
is present.
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
From: hameed@clipper.ingr.com (Hameed Mohammed)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Soviet Air-cooled diesel engines
Date: 8 Jan 93 22:59:43 GMT
Organization: Intergraph Advanced Processor Division - Palo Alto, CA

In the mid 80s, an Indian company was selling diesel motorcycles.
Brand name - Suraj ( meaning Sun ). 
This was apart from Royal Enfield's models, as someone posted before.
From: rriche@engr.LaTech.edu (Ricky P. Riche)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Conversion-Gas to electirc info needed
Date: 12 Jan 1993 03:37:26 GMT
Organization: Louisiana Tech University
NNTP-Posting-Host: me02.engr.latech.edu
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8]

I am a senior in Mechanical Engineering at Louisiana Tech University in
Ruston, Louisiana.  We are working on a conversion of a gas powered car
to an elexctric powered car.  I am searching for people who have done
the conversion or who have built electric cars so I can ask specific
questions about the drive train and outher parts.  I am also looking
for any relevent articles and books on the subject.  Any help would 
be appreciated.


				Thanks

				Ricky Riche
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond)
Subject: Re: cleaning solvents
Date: Tue, 05 Jan 93 09:33:47 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.

dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)  writes:


>-> Try tri-chlorethane.  Some shops call it carbo-trichlor.   It is a
>-> non- flamable solvent frequently used in industrial degreasers.

> Is this a relative of carbon tetrachloride?  (high school chemistry was
>loooong ago...)

Only that both are chlorinated hydrocarbons.  Good degreaser but 
probably way too volatile for a dip tank.  The fumes are not
too bad but at what it costs, evaporation will eat in the wallet fast.
Plus if you happen to do any welding with trichlor fumes in the air,
the decomposition products are toxic and corrosive.

John
-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC               |Interested in high performance mobility?  
Performance Engineering Magazine(TM) | Interested in high tech and computers? 
Marietta, Ga                         | Send ur snail-mail address to 
jgd@dixie.com                        | perform@dixie.com for a free sample mag
Need Usenet public Access in Atlanta?  Write Me for info on Dixie.com.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: wesf@boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii)
Subject: EGR Experts Needed...
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 18:10:02 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]


Okay, I'm over my head now.  I'm trying to help someone else diagnose
a lurching problem on an '86 Toyota Corolla.  So far, the clues are:

4 cylinder, carbureted, 5-speed manual
Lurching at steady state speeds, any gear 
Idles fine
Has been tuned 3 times by 2 different shops
New plugs, air filter, oil, oil filter, cap, rotor, no arcing at wires
Carbon has been cleaned using the water-down-the-carburetor method
55K miles
Ignition system is conventional (non-computer) advance with no knock
   sensor, no oxygen sensor
Timing and spark look good and steady

The engine seem to run fine with the EGR valve disabled (ie. hose
   unplugged)  Checking the EGR vacuum line with a gage shows seemingly
   normal operation (no vacuum at idle or wide-open throttle).  If
   I actuate the EGR valve with a hand pump, the engine behaves
   poorly.
   
Questions:

   1) Will I cause more severe problems letting them run the car with
      the EGR system disabled?  
   
   2) Without the EGR, are CO and hydrocarbons affected or is it just 
      NOx that goes up? 
      
   3) Could it have a plugged catalytic converter which is forcing 
      more exhuast back through the valve than the engine is carbureted
      for?
      
   4) Could it be just a carburetor problem?
   
EGR experts, what should I try next?   
   
Wes Fujii
________________________________________________________________
      ___   ___ ___ 
     /  /  /  //  /
    /  /__/  //  /    A real motor is an Oldsmobile Rocket 455
   /  HURST //  /     "This is NOT the new generation of Olds"
  /  /  /  //  /_______ 
 /__/  /__//  //  ___  \
          /  //  /   \  \       Wes "BANZAI" Fujii
         /  //  /OLDS/  /          Boise, Idaho
        /  / \  \___/  /      wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com
       /__/   \_______/
From: mcostell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Malcolm G. Costello)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Care and Feeding of Woodgrain Sides
Date: 7 Jan 93 21:30:38 GMT
Reply-To: mcostell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Malcolm G. Costello)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.autos.tech, rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com (Bob Rusk) writes:
xOK, so after swearing in my teens that I'd never own such a beast, I've
xcome into posession of a Dodge Caravan with woodgrain sides.  Although
xthe exterior decor would not be my first choice, I'd really like to treat
xit well and have it look presentable for a long time.  So, how does one
xmaintain woodgrain sides?
x
x--
x Bob Rusk
x rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com
x My thoughts, probably not Harris'.

I have a 1977 Plymouth Volare that I've had since new and it's never
been garaged. The "wood grain" still looks good, alot better than the
other few Volares out there. I've just washed it with the rest of the
car with Turtle Wax car wash or the equivalent and used Armor All
every few months. When it gets parking lot dings I just touch it up
with paint of a matching color so that the regular white paint doesn't
show thru. Not for the purist but effective visually.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mack Costello <mcostell@oasys.dt.navy.mil> Code 65.1 (formerly 1720.1)
David Taylor Model Basin, Carderock Division Hq. NSWC    ___/-\____
Bethesda, MD 20084-5000   Phone (301) 227-2431          (__________>|

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: norcott_bill@tandem.com (Bill Norcott)
Subject: Re: Taurus Computer
Reply-To: norcott_bill@tandem.com (Bill Norcott)
Organization: Tandem Computers, Inc.
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 02:37:48 GMT

In article <1993Jan11.173547.10204@esseye.si.com>, scholten@esseye.si.com (David Scholten) writes:
|> 
|> Thanks to all who pointed me in the write direction in being able
|> to read out the fault codes from the computer.  I found the Chilton book
|> that talks about how to do it with an analog voltmeter.  However,
|> they also make clear that Ford claims a breakout box is needed otherwise
|> connecting straight to the computer connector will guarantee a computer
|> failure. Is this true?  Has anybody connected straight to the computer
|> connector with out a breakout/interface box?
|> 

The stuff about the breakout box deals with the computer itself, not
the STAR connector.  That is, you would use a breakout box between
the computer and its connector, if you wanted to test the different
pins on the computer while it is plugged in.

The computer's connector is completely different than the STAR
(diagnostic) connector.  I routinely hook the VOM to the STAR
connector according to the books and have had no problem with
damage to the computer or reading the codes.

-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------|
Bill Norcott			GUARDIAN POSIX project
Tandem Computers, Inc.		
10600 N. Tantau Avenue		PHONE:  (408) 285-3253
Cupertino, CA   95014		EMAIL: norcott_bill@tandem.com


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: floyd@eng.umd.edu (Mike Hughes)
Subject: Re: overheating Ford Van
Date: Sun, 10 Jan 93 21:04:32 GMT
Organization: University of Maryland

[the complaint was weird temp readings on gauge after cooling system parts
replacement]

	Be sure that there is plenty of coolant in the system.  When you 
initially filled the system, the t-stat was closed.  Air trapped in the 
block could have fooled you into believing that the system was full, even
if it wasn't.  

	Now that the thermostat has opened and closed a few times, it might
have lowered the level in the radiator.  To remove any more air in the system,
run the engine without the radiator cap until the level drops, then fill it 
up and replace the cap.  That should do it.  For more reassurance, open the 
system at the highest point on the engine (usually a hose or plug in the
head) and let any air out.

Let us know what happens...Mike


:Suicidal Tendencies====>: 						      :
:Mike Hughes(301)340-0922:     	     [Smack, smack, smack...]     	      :
:Mail-> floyd@eng.umd.edu: 	Standby stomach, here come' bannana.	      :
:   Z-Club member # 41   : 						      :
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: cleaning solvents
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 3 Jan 93 20:11:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> > There are, so far as I know, no local environmental restrictions on
-> >solvents.

> Where do you live?  Whereever it is, I'm sure its not very easy for
> an average citizen to walk into a chemical supplier and some benzene
> and nitrotoulene, or similar solvents.  I know these probably aren't
> the ones you were refering to though.

 As I said the first time, as far as I know, there are *no local*
restrictions here in Arkansas. If there are substances which are under
Federal control, they're still controlled here, of course.
From: pwu@ai.mit.edu (Peng Wu)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: How do you determine correct tire pressure?
Date: 10 Jan 93 00:12:48
Organization: MIT Artificial Intelligence Laboratory
NNTP-Posting-Host: portofino.ai.mit.edu
In-reply-to: andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu's message of Mon, 4 Jan 1993 21:50:25 GMT

I would pump the tires to a pressure between the manufacture recommendation
and the tire maximum pressure.  I currently use the following method to
maintain the pressure: pressure the tires as desired with an accurate gage,
drive to a level ground, measure the distances between the rimes and ground,
and mark the distances on the window scraper of the car.  Usually there is a
difference between front and rare tires.  When the tire pressure is in doubt,
check the rime to ground distances with the scraper.  For the perfectionists,
the marks should be calibrated at extreme temperatures and adjusted as the
tires ware.
From: david@trsvax.tandy.com
Date: 08 Jan 93 20:35 CST
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Brake repair question
Message-ID: <107200007@trsvax>
Nf-ID: #R:magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu:10321:trsvax:107200007:000:34
Nf-From: trsvax.tandy.com!david    Jan  8 20:35:00 1993


                            uuup


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bob1@cos.com (Bob Blackshaw)
Subject: Re: Oxygenated Gasoline and Low MPG (super unleaded?)
Organization: Corporation for Open Systems
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 20:15:11 GMT

In <4276.88.uupcb@chaos.lrk.ar.us> dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)  writes:


>-> but cause a loss in mileage.  Does the emission improvemnet offset
>-> the gas mileage decrease?  I guess what I am asking is what is the
>-> comparision between  emissions/MILE of each of these fuels?  This
>-> seems to be more pertinent than idle emissions for each.

> That depends, of course, in what you're burning the gick in.  For a
>late model car in good tune there's not much difference.
>                                                    
It made no difference in my '89 Probe, CO was unmeasurable before and
after. But it sure screwed my gas mileage, pay more - get less, I
did find that the last tank of that camel urine I used got a bit
over 30 mpg, someone must have been feeding the camel sour mash
leavings.

Bob.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.driving,rec.autos
From: mgarber@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Max D Garber)
Subject: ++Where can I find NADA books?++
Organization: The Ohio State University
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 17:43:05 GMT


I would like to find where I can purchase NADA books for my interest in
used cars.  Do you know where I can find them?

Please email me at your earliest convienience.

Thanks!
-- 
1983 Pontiac 2000 SE   1986 Mercury Topaz GS     1983 Honda NIGHTHAWK 650
    'BABY BOOOM'          'MS. BABY BOOOM'           'MINT CONDITION'
"Car-Audio for Sale"     Under Construction     "Bike For Sale-Make Offer"
       'HIS'                   'HERS'                    'THEIRS'
From: br@cs.cmu.edu (Bill Ross)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Rust repairs?
Date: 5 Jan 93 14:47:42 GMT
Article-I.D.: cs.C0DyFJ.GMu.2
Reply-To: br@cs.cmu.edu
Organization: CMU Vision and Autonomous Systems Center


    I have a 6 year old Toyota with the typical crummy Japanese
    paint job (the rest of the truck is great..).  I've got
    some nasty rust creeping through the rear wheel-wells that I
    need advice on.

 
    Here is a cut-away view of the right wheel well seen from the rear
    of the truck.  The well is formed by 2 sheets, one is the side
    panel of the truck, the other forms the top of the wheel well.
    The two sheets are folded together at the bottom and crimped
    (spot welded?).  The outside sheet is rusting badly along the
    bottom 1/2".  It looks like water has been creeping in through
    the seam and rusting the metal from the inside out.  While the
    outside of the truck shows almost nothing, probably 50% of the 
    steel in this 1/2" strip is gone -- you can easily put a knife
    through the metal.  Above this area, the steel is fine.

                                                                        
                             |                                          
          inside piece       |                                          
          -------------      |                                          
                       \     |                                          
                        \    | outside piece                            
                         \   |                                          
                          |  Rust                                       
        Water comes       |  Rust                                       
          in here      ----  Rust                                       
              ------>  -------                                          
                                                                        
                                                                        
    My best idea is to get inside from above (not too hard in this
    truck) and clean things out very thoroughly.  Then a coat of
    rusty-metal primer, and then fill the whole area with epoxy
    or bondo or something.  When this set up, I could then attack
    the outside, remove all the rusted garbage, putty and sand,
    prime and paint.  Is this the way to go, or is there a better
    way to do this?

    Thanks for any feedback!  I don't want to spend a couple of
    weekends on this and have an even worse problem next year!

    Bill
    br@cs.cmu.edu
 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dannyb@panix.com (Daniel Burstein)
Subject: Re: Soviet Air-cooled diesel engines
Organization: Panix, NYC
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 11:51:06 GMT

In <4336.88.uupcb@chaos.lrk.ar.us> dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)  writes:


>-> They produce air-cooled diesel engines that are claimed
>-> to out perform the liquid cooled variety and can operate
>-> at extremely high and low temperatures. Also, they are
>-> supposed to be cheaper.

Doesn't anybody remember Volkswagons??

danny (so that's a hippee-wagon) burstein
From: dloyer@zacson4.EBay.Sun.COM (Dennis Loyer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Leaking brake fluid.  How to find leak
Date: 8 Jan 1993 23:16:03 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Distribution: world
Reply-To: dloyer@zacson4.EBay.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: zacson4.ebay.sun.com

In article 3787@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu, sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Steven J Orlin) writes:
> In article <ahusain.41@comm1> ahusain@comm1 (Asad Husain) writes:
> >Hi there.
> >
> >I seem to have a leak in my brake system.  Every 2 weeks I have to fill up
> >my master cylinder with brake fluid.  What can I do to find where the leak
> >is.   I have tried to look for obvious leaks but can't find any.
> >
> Check the brake calipers and rear brake cylinders, any rubber line and any 
> metal line that runs right underneath the car, by the frame or axle.
> -- 
> "Nobody tells a Navy man when he's had enough to drink, cause only a Navy man
>  knows when he's had enough to drink!"
> -Steven J Orlin   sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu  /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/


Worse yet is raw linseed oil, I had this done to me,  when introduced into the combustion chamber, the oil breaks down into a resin.  This resin literally glued
the pistons to the cylinder walls in my engine, causing a lot of damage which
forced me to replace the complete engine, not very fun or cheap.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech