HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: hajji@me.utoronto.ca (Lanouar Hajji)
Subject: Want to buy a VW and take it to Europe
Summary: Are the parts of the VW cars in north america are compatible with those
Keywords: parts
Organization: UofT Mechanical Engineering
Distribution: rec
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 02:17:31 GMT

I want to buy a VW car from Canada to take it to north Africa. However I was
told that the parts of the cars made for north America are not the same (or
compatible) as those made for Europe.
I appreciate if any body can help find that is true or not.
.
Thanks

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: Re: Dasher
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 13:30:17 GMT

In article <930127.171359.amiller@almaden.ibm.com>, amiller@almaden.ibm.com (Alex Miller) writes:
>Avoid it.  It shared some mechanical parts, including engines,
>but it is not part of the Rabbit-Scirroco family.
>The gas version had many quirks, like having to lift the engine
>a few inches to change the spark plugs.
>
I beg to differ. I had an Audi Fox (1974 model) for a couple
of years, and don't remember having to lif the engine
to get at the plugs. The only hassle was a pi$$-poor 
carb that was replaced by a Webber unit. This car was
my first intro to FWD. It was steady as a rock in 
the rain at 70 (compared to my 2002 Ti BMW), it was
a blast to drive, and reliable as all hell. Put
on about 60k miles without a problem other than
the carb.

Ric




>The Quantum was it's superior replacement (in 1982 or 1983.)
>
>Alex
>amiller@almaden.ibm.com
From: bg@stein.u.washington.edu (Bill Whitson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Karmann Ghia leaks
Date: 26 Jan 93 05:35:03 GMT
Organization: University of Washington
NNTP-Posting-Host: stein.u.washington.edu

OK.  I have a 1970 Karmann Ghia.  Whenever it rains lately the back-seat area
carpet gets soaking wet.  Water seems to be pooling under the back seat so I
assume that's where it's coming from.  The pan is very solid, no rust so I
can't figure how the water is getting in.  I put paper towels around all the
windows to see if they were leaking but they didn't show so much as a spec
of water after a night in the pouring rain.  My only guess is that somehow
water is getting into the heat exchangers and running up through the heater
ducts but this seems highly unlikely.  Anyone out there ever have a problem
like this?

Post or e-mail.

Thanks,
Bill Whitson
bill@booster.u.washington.edu
From: milo@dorm.rutgers.edu (Jim  mielo)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Good VW mechanic in Central N.J.
Date: 23 Jan 93 17:55:57 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.vw
Organization: rutgers university

In article <1993Jan22.181728.9865@devildog.att.com>,
bobmcn@devildog.att.com (Bob McNaughton) wrote:
> 
> In article <1993Jan21.224123.16409@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> jose@troy.cc.bellcore.com (caballero,richard j) writes:
> >Hi:
> >
> >I own a 92 VW GTI 16V.  I hate my dealer.
> >I bought the car from Shrewsbury Motors in 
> >Shrewsbury N.J.  I am just not satisfied with
> >their service.  Does anyone have recommendations
> >for any good VW mechanics in central N.J.?
> >Any info is much appreciated.
> >
> >Rich Caballero
> >jose@cc.bellcore.com
> >
> 
> I saw the Subject of your message and thought "great, here is a chance to
> pass on the info I have about the great dealer I use", but that dealer is
> Shrewsbury Motors! I am very interested in any objections you have before
> I go back.

       I had my recall fixed there. I had break cooling ducts installed on
my GTI as required by VW's recall but the ducts openings were never cut out
. This annoyed me since I had been to that dealership 2 times claiming fade
problems and they said nothing was wrong. Then the recall came.. The
problem was a big one. The breaks would fade out almost completely in the
summertime after a few good stops and I felt they were very negligent by
not doing the job properly.
    That added on to being billed twice for an extended warrantee made me
call it quits.

> 
> Anyway, they are infinitely better than Handy Motors of New Brunswick. I have
> been charged for work that wasn't done and had at least one case of sabotauge
> during a free safety check that lead to an expensive repair (cutting a 
> perfectly good CV boot in half so they could charge to replace it). Avoid this
> dealer at all costs.
       I had a feeling about this but I could never prove anything. Just
for the record Handy Motors filed  for bankrupcy about two years ago and
finally closed a few months ago. I went there  a few times for simple
things and one big warrantee repair ( pinion gear came loose and chewed up
the tranny) It was free so I didn't ask any questions and it seems to be
fixed. The only thing is something doesn't feel right. I can't pin it down
but there is a very slight vibration and the tranny is a little notchy.
It's not enough of a problem to pay to have the tranny taken apart but it
is enough to worry about.


> 
> Bob McNaughton
> bobmcn@amadaeus.att.com

James Mielo
Rutgers College of Pharmacy '94
milo@dorm.rutgers.edu
 1990 GTi 8v

 Sub Umbra Petri
From: alyoon@cs.umd.edu (Aloysius Yoon)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: [W] Tires for Corrado SLC
Date: 28 Jan 93 18:13:58 GMT
Organization: U of Maryland, Dept. of Computer Science, Coll. Pk., MD 20742


Whatever tires you plan purchase, check out the mail-order price.
Get a copy of any popular car magazine and look for tire mail-order places.

As far as recommandation goes, I would highly recommand DUNLOPS.
Their D40M2 is an excellent tire, and they also have a newer model
which exceeds the D40M2.  Most of the our VW club members preferre
DUNLOPS over other brands from their experience including myself.

					--Al

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: bossoj@nuge101.its.rpi.edu (Joseph Charles Bossolini)
Subject: Re: [W] Flashing LED on stereo
Reply-To: bossoj@rpi.edu
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY.
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 17:19:42 GMT

In article <93021.233412U11303@uicvm.uic.edu>, <U11303@uicvm.uic.edu> writes:
|> 
|> I also have a question about those leds.  How do they work on stock
|> vw radios?  Do they have an extra wire in the harness that when low turns
|> on the led.  That is to say when the radio and ignition are off.
|> 
|> I just put in a blaupunkt with an led but of course the led doesnt flash
|> since power is always on regardless of ignition.  I guess my case is hopeless
|> since I only had one power cable which I used for the radio's power and memory
|> backup. I didn't feel like using a different circuit which wasn't intended for
|> the radio.
|> 
|> Thanks,
|> 
|> Mark.

If I'm not mistaken, all new (91-on) VWs have the radios wired to the ignition
so they are powered only when the key is inserted.  It is an easy hook up
for an early VW/Audi.  All you need to do is hook up a relay in your power
feed to the radio, and get the relay control line from the door buzzer
power feed (you know, the one that buzzes when you open your door and still
have the keys in the ignition).

I did this mod for my 82 Audi after I saw my brothers new Jetta (92) with it.
It showed up a couple months later in european car (can't remember which 
issue).  I highly recommend it if you are sick of having to turn the radio
off when you leave the car (i.e. are lazy like me!).

Anyway, this setup will work just like the Acc setting on the ignition like
other makes of cars.  You will have to run the memory as a seperate power lead;
one that will be on _all_ the time (obviously).  Maybe this will help out.

Joe
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: Re: [W] Jetta GLI Thermostat??
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 18:58:41 GMT

In article <C1KKnw.DIE@ucunix.san.uc.edu>, haasnr@ucunix.san.uc.edu (Nicholas Robert Haas) writes:
>I left a message about a week ago about the temp on my 85 Jetta GLI.. 230
>for normal driving in the winter seems a little high to me and I was wondering
>what I could do about it...   I never had to mess with my old GTI's temperature
>it was always about 160-170 or so...   So I dont know much about the cooling
>system.. I assume the motor has a standard thermostat that opens according 
>to coolant temp..  Is there somewhere that I could buy a thermostat that 
>opens under lower temperatures? Or opens wider??  Would this solve my problem
>and do I even have a problem??  Any help would be appreciated...

There are two thermostats that fit watercooled engines. One opens at 180
degrees and is used in the Rabbit, the other opens at 185 degrees and
is used on the Golf. You may want to first test your  thermostat to
see if it is in fact opening properly.

Another way of dropping the temperature to a "reasonable" level is
to get a lower temp fan switch from either Autotech or APS. These switches
are the European switches and probably not available from US VW dealers.
They will at least turn the fan on earlier for you.

Also check to make sure your water pump is functioning properly.

Ric



>
>Also the guy who replied to my previous message (I cant remember his name)
>mentioned a small mailing for the Jetta GLI newsletter or something and asked
>if I wanted my name on the list.. Well I do, but when I replied to your 
>message the return address was bad and it never got to you..  If you read
>this letter, either add me to your list or E-Mail me.. Thanks..
>
> 
>
>
>-- 
>---===>>> Nick <<<===---
>haasnr@ucunix.san.uc.edu
>------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mag@minnie.nic.kingston.ibm.com (Michael Gray)
Subject: Re: [W] Corrado for '94 ?
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 93 12:07:25 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: IBM Corp., Kingston NY

According to Autoweek, all 94 VW's will come equipped with Airbags.  In fact, later this year,
when the Jetta III GLX is introduced it will have both driver and passenger airbags as standard.

Michael
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: morton@gaul.csd.uwo.ca (Brent Morton)
Subject: Re: "94 Jetta GLX"
Organization: Computer Science Dept., Univ. of Western Ontario, London, Canada
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 20:46:18 GMT

In article <29975@oasys.dt.navy.mil> odell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Bernard O'Dell) writes:
>Supposedly, the new Jetta GLX will now be a 94 car-
>coming out in June-July or ?--
>
>Fully loaded with leather-moonroof-everything-"supposedly"
>around 18K-one helluva lot cheaper, if true, then the
>Camry SE, Max SE, and anything that comes close to a "Sports
>Sedan"---and, again, supposedly, it will outperform all of them.
>
>Anybody know about prices-specs-if in fact it really will be
>a REAL performer?--

The Vento (our Jetta) has been on sale in Europe for a while now. The British
car mag I have doesn't have any performance specs for it, but they list a UK
price of #19 031 for the Vento 2.8 VR6 -- that's about $33 000 in US dollars.
Of course, it won't be anywhere near that much when it gets to North America,
but it gives you an idea of the terribly expensive prices in Britain.

This magasine does have specs for the Golf 2.8 VR6: 0-60 mph in 7.1 sec., top
speed 138 mph. How's that for a Golf!

-- Brent
morton@gaul.csd.uwo.ca

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw,rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
From: koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz)
Subject: Re: Oil Coolant Engines?
Organization: Naval Ocean Systems Center, San Diego
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 15:30:00 GMT

In article <1993Jan25.165652.4119@nntp.nta.no> BARANSKI@veamf1.nusc.navy.mil (Jim Baranski) writes:
>Is the VW engine more accurately called an *AIR* cooled engine, or a *OIL*
>cooled engine?

>I don't know whether more BTUs are cooled by air normally, or by the oil, but
>based on the oil cooler in more VW engines, I'd hazard a guess that they are
>actually *OIL* cooled.

ummmm, well... *all* engines are cooled in part by oil... the only coolant seen
by the power components in *ANY* engine (that I've ever seen) is oil...  this
accounts for around 40% of the cooling load.  that's why the sump holds
considerably more oil than is actually required for lubrication (the volume
allows more heat to be removed from the bearings associated with the rotating
assemblies without causing undue temperature rise).

Walt K.
From: rhorwell@atc.boeing.com (Roland Faragher-Horwell,crab)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: What the hell?  Automatic Clutch?
Date: 20 Jan 93 21:49:14 GMT
Reply-To: rhorwell@atc.boeing.com
Organization: Northwest Citroen Owners OR Boeing (you choose)


In article 62855@cc.usu.edu, slhmz@cc.usu.edu () writes:
 >
>The gear shifter is set up something like this:
>
>                         1
>              R         /
>              |        /
>              |---|---/
>              /   |   \
>             /    |    \
>            P     L     \
>                         2
>
> Where P is park, R is reverse, but what the hell does 'L' stand for?
>
> Note that I couldn't just put it in 'L' and take off, I had to shift
> from first to second to 'L' I guess.  I've never drove somthing this
> screwy.  What's up?   There is no clutch.  yOu just shift!
>
> Is this car worth anything (as in rare?) it is totally strange.
>
> The engine has some wierd computer thing on it that I guess tells it
> when to shift or something and some weird emisions something or other.
> 

My wife bought one of these new in '74.  My sister currently drives it.
The automatic doesnt't actually shift for you, L is for heavy loads/steep inclines.
1 is to be used up to 50mph (you usually only use 1 in the city, and 2 on highways).
There is a torqueconverter and a clutch, and a vacuum modulator operating the 
clutch.  Whenever you move the gear lever, the clutch is disengaged.  When in
gear, the torque converter allows for slippage at a stop in gear (like a 
conventional autobox). 

My sister's car now has about 150,000 miles on it, and 
the only work ever done on the gearbox (it has had a few carb problems) was a
gasket in the vacuum system was replaced at about 3k miles, and a tranny fluid
hose was replaced at about 130,000.  (It will be for sale soon - has some rust
and dings in it, but the drivetrain all works ok - it is near Seattle).

This version of the stickshift automatic is more rare than it's predecessor with
the electromagnetic  clutch (and more reliable).  It is also less common since 
most people avoided it as it had inherited the bad reputation of the electro-magentic
version!  It is pretty fun to drive, but I don't think I would get one as parts
are getting hard (if you should need them), and the carb has some special
castings for vacuum associated with the clutch mechanism - makes it a $600 carb!

If you want a good semi-automatic that is alot more fun to drive, get a Citroen
with Citro-Matic!  Or a SAAB 96 with the vacuum operated 'SAXOMAT' clutch!  These
are both more fun to drive since you actually get to shift (the VW just sits in 
gear all the time unless you go on the freeway, where you get to shift once! [1-2]).

Roland
From: michaelb@compnews.co.uk (Michael Burton)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Coupe for Sale
Date: 26 Jan 93 23:10:16 GMT
Organization: Computer Newspaper Services, Howden, UK.
NNTP-Posting-Host: annatto.compnews.co.uk
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4

I am selling my Audi Coupe GT (86). It has a full VAG service history and is in very good condition. This advert is no good to you unless you live in the UK
but if anyone wants anymore details leave me a message or E-mail me at the address below.


--
	AUDI...Kickin' Ass in full effect !!
	If you want an adrenaline RUSH don't buy an 'E'
	BUY AN AUDI (German Cars - The BEST)
	E-mail michaelb@compnews.co.uk
From: milo@dorm.rutgers.edu (Jim  mielo)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: [W] Flashing LED on stereo
Date: 22 Jan 93 02:32:20 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.vw
Organization: rutgers university

> Is the flashing LED on stock stereos (in late model VWs) an effective
> deterrent?  Is it common knowledge among thieves that the stereo will
> not work without the code?  Does this strategy work well for Mercedes?
> 
> Her car was recently broken into, and the guess is that they expected
> to find the pull out under a seat or in the trunk (they didn't).  But
> several other new VWs park in the same area, all with the stock stereo
> left in the car - and they decided to target hers.  
> 
> Based on this, she might start leaving it in there, in plain view.  Is
> this a good idea, or are the other cars just lucky?

     Car theives will steal anything they can get their hands on. The codes
don't really stop them since most of the kids that steal them don't know
about this feature and most pro's can get around it. The pull outs tend to
be more attractive since it implys  the car might have a system in it or at
least a better stereo than the stock one .Plus, it's easier to find than
prying the factory one out of the dash The best bet is an alarm or making a
false face plate to cover/hide the existing stereo.



James Mielo
Rutgers College of Pharmacy '94
milo@dorm.rutgers.edu
 1990 GTi 8v

 Sub Umbra Petri
From: morgan@hydra2b.cs.utk.edu (Wiz)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Swapping a 4-speed and a 5-speed (Rabbit)
Date: 25 Jan 1993 18:03:38 GMT
Organization: University of Tennessee, Knoxville - Department of Computer Science
Distribution: world
Reply-To: morgan@hydra2b.cs.utk.edu (Wiz)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hydra2b.cs.utk.edu
Keywords: transmission

Does anyone out there have any experience in replacing a 4-speed with a
5-speed in a Rabbit?

I have changed the transmission already, replaced the left transmission mount,
and the plastic-tipped shift linkages.  I've got 2 reverses, both in the
wrong place, no first, maybe a 2nd, 3rd, and 4th. 

The 5-speed has just been rebuilt, so I don`t think that that's the
problem.

Does anyone know what else must be changed/adjusted to get this to work?

This procedure is *fairly* common, once upon a time there were even
kits that included all necessary parts.  My local VW dealer is no help.

Thanks to anyone out there who cares to comment (whether it's helpful or
not)

Wiz
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: chrisf%occs.nlm.nih.gov (Chris Fisher)
Subject: '77 Diesel Rabbit for sale...
Reply-To: chrisf@occs.nlm.nih.gov
Organization: National Library of Medicine
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8]
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 93 15:59:30 GMT

I have a 1977 Diesel 4 speed manual for sale.  It has been recently diagnosed with a "locked-up engine", i.e. not runnable.  It has 4 brand new tires and a master cylinder.  Oh, yeah, it's a 4 door with a sunroof.  The body is in o.k. condition.  Brown in color.  If there's anybody out there with an engine without a home, it's a winner.  I'm asking $250.00.

Any takers?  My E-Mail is up above there.  Another address is:

Chris_Fisher@occshost.nlm.nih.gov

Thanks

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: Re: [A] bus wiper motor blowing fuses
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 20:11:49 GMT

In article <1k9173INN28v@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>, wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy) writes:
>
>Hey now, volks!
>The bus in question is a '71 (not mine) and is blowing fuses left and right.
>When the wipers are switched on, they start to move (slowly) and then the
>fuse blows.  Seems to me kind of like something is blocking its motion so
>the motor strains, draws too much current and *FOOSH* no more fuse.  Any
>other guesses?
>
One potential area are the wiper arm pivot shafts themselves. On the
bugs and busses, as well as other vws, the wiper shafts (steel) sit
in a brass housing which is threaded on the outside to hold them
in place.

As time goes on, either the grease inside them hardens, or the brass
and steel begin to corode and eventually the whole thing binds up.

You may want to disconnect the rods from the wiper motor to the 
wiper pivot shafts and try moving them by hand. If they are bound
up, remove the pivot shafts.

You may be able to remove the shaft from the housing by carefully
removing the little clip that holds the whole mess together. Then
examine the shaft and the bore of the brass part. If things aren't
too pitted up, a little bit of wd40, some very fine emory cloth
may be enough to get rid of the crud. Then re-grease the shafts, and
re-assemble the whole thing.

RIc 



>Bill
>-- 
>William Claspy		Case Western Reserve University
>wpc@po.cwru.edu
From: marcouil@ireq.hydro.qc.ca (Luc Marcouiller)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Swapping a 4-speed and a 5-speed (Rabbit)
Keywords: transmission
Date: 25 Jan 93 19:38:16 GMT
Reply-To: marcouil@ireq.hydro.qc.ca
Organization: Hydro-Quebec

In article <1k1a1qINNa47@CS.UTK.EDU>, morgan@hydra2b.cs.utk.edu (Wiz) writes:
|> Does anyone out there have any experience in replacing a 4-speed with a
|> 5-speed in a Rabbit?
|> 
|> I have changed the transmission already, replaced the left transmission mount,
|> and the plastic-tipped shift linkages.  I've got 2 reverses, both in the
|> wrong place, no first, maybe a 2nd, 3rd, and 4th. 
|>              ^^^^^^^^

Sorry can't help you with your two reverses but I ran into the no first problem
when the direction rack-pinion assembly was changed (btw if your car makes a
lot noises in the front suspension check this one out also; along with brake
pads clips, tie-rods and ball-joint).  The fact is that the shift linkage can
be easily misaligned and when this happens you lose the first usually (ever
heard of a first that is hard to get in ?).  In my case it was the shift 
linkage "holder" that bolts to the rack-pinion assembly that was slightly
misaligned and when I say slightly I mean that only loosening the fixing bolts
on non-sloted (read supposedely non-adjustable) holes and slightly moving the
thing around made the difference between having or not having a first !  BTW
it's the 5-speed short ratio gearbox, not original (was OD 5-speed).

Share and Enjoy

Luc
-- 
   Luc Marcouiller,                  Institut de Recherche d'Hydro-Quebec,
   Chercheur                         marcouil@ireq.hydro.qc.ca
From: mattias@tse.uucp (Mattias Hembruch x0830)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Three wheelin' Fool..
Date: 27 Jan 93 17:14:44 GMT
Organization: Toronto Stock Exchange

In article <1993Jan26.004552.26319@galileo.cc.rochester.edu> tgpt_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Tom Guptill) writes:
>In <25JAN199316320988@zeus.tamu.edu> jmm2948@zeus.tamu.edu (Jeffrey M. Mayzurk) writes:
>
>>fine German (maybe Italian) marque, and not one of those rice-burners that
>
>	Sorry for the pointless digression, but when I hear the phrase
>'Italian automobile' the first thing that springs to mind is the Fiat
>Strada.  Is there something I'm missing?  (Have you ever tried to get
>parts for a Fiat Strada?  I couldn't even find a mechanic who would
>*touch* mine!)
>				Tom
>-- 
>| Tom Guptill           | tgpt_ltd@cc.rochester.edu (internet) |
>| CPU Box 277445 U of R | tgpt_ltd@uordbv (bitnet)             |
>| Rochester NY 14627    |                                      |
>| (716) 274-0156        |                                      |


I believe the reference was to fine German/Italian cars.. Fine German cars are
Porsche, BMW, Benz, and VW. Fine Italian would be: Ferrari and Lamborghini.
Where's Bugatti from? 
-- 
Mattias Hembruch
>> My views do not necessarily reflect those of the TSE. <<
E-mail: mattias@tse.asd.tse.ca
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw