From: alg@cs.cornell.edu (Anne Louise Gockel)
Subject:  Textiles FAQ
Followup-To: rec.crafts.textiles
Summary: Answers to Frequently Asked Questions in the rec.crafts.textiles and
	alt.sewing newsgroups.  Includes charters of the groups, lists of 
	sources, info on pseudo-archives, info on quilt block exchange and
	maillist and info on natural fabrics.
Keywords: FAQ, textiles, sewing, outdoor, crafts, quilt
Supersedes: <1992Oct14.161525.4060@cs.cornell.edu>
Reply-To: alg@cs.cornell.edu
Organization: Cornell Univ. CS Dept, Ithaca NY 14853
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 12:44:05 GMT
Expires: Sun, 14 Feb 1993 05:00:00 GMT

Archive-name: crafts-textiles
Last-modified: 14 Dec 1992



The following is the first of three lists of Frequently Asked Questions for
the alt.sewing and rec.crafts.textiles groups.  I plan to use the same FAQs
for both newsgroups as long as most of the questions remain pertinent to both
groups.

Like most of us, I don't know all the answers, I've just collected the wisdom
of the net.  Many of these answers have been culled for postings over the last
year or so.  Many regular posters have contributed to this list through their
postings and e-mail.  Any additions or comments are appreciated and can be
mailed to me.

					-Anne Louise Gockel
					Cornell Computer Science

Internet: alg@cs.cornell.edu		UUCP: cornell!alg
----------------------------------------------------------------- 
The first list concentrates on general sewing questions and supply information
and restoring antique sewing machines.  The second list concentrates on
costuming and historical clothing.  The third posting contains a list of books
that cover sewing, fitting and pattern drafting.

Some of these answers are fairly lengthy so I have used "ctrl-L" between the
different questions in this FAQ.  Note: within the "rn" news reader you can 
use:
      g 1) 
at the "More --##%--" prompt to go directly to question 1). 


Questions addressed: 

1) Where can I discuss xyzzy (weaving, spinning, flower arrangements, 
   dyeing etc)? 
2) Where can I get material for outdoor gear or windsocks? 
3) What's the best brand of sewing machine or serger? 
4) Are there any archives for rec.crafts.textiles or alt.sewing? 
5) Are there any archives for cross stitch information? 
6) What are the addresses of various places? 
7) What are the best periodicals and sources for Heirloom Sewing (also known
   as French Hand Sewing) projects? 
8) Where can I get natural fabrics by mail order?
9) Would anyone like to exchange quilt blocks?
10) I've just been given my Great Grandmother's sewing machine. 
   Can anyone help me fix it or restore it?
11) Where can I get an up to date copy of this FAQ?


Significant changes since posting of 10/13/92:  
	added definition of serger in question 3)
	updated archives list; updated cross-stitch archives list
	removed question: dated information
		10) Are there any sewing shows that travel the U.S. and 
		are worth going to see?
	corrected a few typos in question 3) (Hobbylock, not Hobbycraft)
		and made a few other adjustments
		


1) Where can I discuss xyzzy (weaving, spinning, flower arrangements, dyeing
etc)?

There are three news groups for various handcrafts.  The original group
alt.sewing is primarily for sewing topics.  Other topics are discussed there
occassionally, but we now have the groups rec.crafts.textiles and
rec.crafts.misc for sewing, needlecraft and non-sewing discussions.

The original charter for the unmoderated group rec.crafts.textile is:

This newsgroup is for discussing all fiber and textile related interests that
are not covered by another rec.crafts group.  This includes, but is not
limited to, sewing, weaving, spinning, knitting, crochet, quilting,
embroidery, cross stitch, tatting, lacemaking and dyeing.  Discussions may
cover techniques, supplies and equipment, drafting of patterns, artistic
approaches, exhibitions or shows, books or other references.  Textiles
includes both textiles to be worn or used in a home and textiles created for
display.

The original charter for the unmoderated group rec.crafts.misc is:

This newsgroup is for discussing all crafts and hobbies that are not covered
by another rec or rec.crafts group.  Such crafts may include, but are not
limited to, jewelry making, metalwork, leatherwork, papermaking, dollmaking,
instrument making, and stained glass.  Some subjects discussed in
rec.crafts.misc may overlap other rec.crafts groups.


 
2) Where can I get material for outdoor gear?

The Rain Shed
707 NW 11th
Corvallis, OR  97330
(503) 753-8900
- Also carries reflective fabric and patterns for windsocks.

The Green Pepper
3918 West First Avenue                
Eugene, OR  97402
(800) 767-5684
- Also carries neoprene fabric.

Frostline Kits
2512 W. Independent Avenue            
Grand Junction, CO  81505-7200
(800) KITS-USA
- Also carries down, and down kits.

Outdoor Wilderness Fabrics
2511 Latah Drive
Nampa, ID 83651
(208)466-1602
- Will do wholesale prices if large purchase.

Mountain Mend
1580 Canyon
Boulder, CO 
(303) 443-1925
- No additional information [alg].

Seattle Fabrics
3878 Bridge Way N
Seattle 98103
(206) 632-6022
- canvas, gor-tex, polarplus, etc.

Daisy Kingdom
134 NW 8th
Portland, OR
(503) 222-9033   
800-234-6688 or 503-222-3817; FAX 503-222-9120.
$2.00 for nursery/craft catalogue.
Mastercard, Visa, UPS an Fed Ex.
- They sell outdoor fabrics and also patterns. They
do sell by mail order.

Sewing Sampler Productions
PO Box 39
Springfield, MN 56087
(800) 772-5011  or (507) 723-5011
- Nylon Supplex 

Sew Natural Fabrics by Mail
4650 Bishop Road
Mechanicsville MD 20659
(800) 368-0126  or  (301) 373-3067
- Ultrex (breathable waterproof microcoated supplex) 

Narain's Outdoor Equipment
Berkeley, CA
(510) 527-2509
- They are in Berkeley next door to REI.  They carry Gore-tex,
but they are not mail order [alg].

Malden Mills
Lawrence, Mass
(508) 685-6341	
- Near Mass/NH border.  Factory outlet store with large
discounts on PolorPlus (Synchilla) and PolarLite.  Open Tues,
Thurs, Fri only 10-6.  No Mail Order!  


In England:

Pennine Outdoor    Tel 0484 683206 and 684302
Hard Knott
Holmbridge
Huddersfield
W. Yorkshire
England

Tor Outdoor Pursuits
3 Fryer Sreeet
Runcorn
Cheshire
WA7 1ND

They are both good and the service is rapid.  Pennine have slightly more
variety and are somewhat more expensive.  


Books and Articles:

Article by Rochelle Harper in Threads #25 (Oct/Nov 1989) on making a copy of a
Patagonia jacket.

Article in Threads #19 about different water resistant fabrics.  Also
discusses copying a London Fog raincoat.

_Sew and Repair Your Outdoor Gear_ by Louise Lindgren Sumner, published by the
Mountaineers, copyright 1988, $14.95 (paper) ISBN 0-89886-057-1.

An article in Sew News July 1991 about sewing boat covers mentions three
books: _Big Boat of Boat Canvas_, _Complete Canvas Workers Guide_, _Canvas and
Rope Craft_.  Available from:
	Northwest Sewing 
	Box 25826 
	Seattle 98125-1326


For making windsocks the following is also available from Daisy Kingdom:

Let's Make Windsocks 
By Valerie J. Lund 
Copyright date 1989 
ISBN 0-9622405-0-8 

Central Coast Creations 
P.O. Box 3643 
San Luis Obispo, Ca. 93403

Fabric for kite making from the FAQ for rec.kites.
  Into the Wind, 1408 Pearl Street, Boulder, CO  80302
  Go Fly a Kite, P.O. Box AA, East Haddam, CT  06423
  Hang-Em High Fabrics, 1420 Yale Avenue, Richmond, VA  23224
See the FAQ in rec.kites for many more recommendations about books and sources.


Compiled from postings or comments by:
suzy@skat.usc.edu (Susan A. Musil)
bobbiem@hpcupt1.cup.hp.com (Bobbie Morrison)
marg@media-lab.MEDIA.MIT.EDU (Margaret Minsky)
GO5@psuvm.psu.edu (Kjell E. Grotland)
devine_d@apollo.HP.COM (Donna Devine)
Dave Uebele	uunet!sco!daveu  or daveu@sco.com
alg@cs.cornell.edu (Anne Louise Gockel)
ber@otter.hpl.hp.com (Brenda Romans) (ber@hpl.hp.co.uk,ber%hplb.uucp@ukc.ac.uk)
togood@roger.lerc.nasa.gov (Chris Miller)
tigger@satyr.sylvan.com (Grace Sylvan)


3) What's the best brand of sewing machines or sergers?

This question comes up frequently and there are many many answers.  I have
saved many of these answers and will send you these saved discussions if you
send me email.  This summary mentions some of the names that have come up
repeatedly, it is not an exhaustive list.

For sewing machines, Bernina, Pfaff and Elna are all considered top of the
line sewing machines.  However the top of the line new machines start in the
$1500+ range (with list prices typically more) which puts them out of reach of
many non-professionals.  

Note that many high-end dealers are willing to "bargain" with prospective
buyers so it can be helpful to shop around and carefully compare packages,
particularly in large cities that have substantial competition.  (The process
is often compared with the sort of "dealing" that is typical when purchasing a
new car.)  Because the margins can be very high, sales or special deals may
have discounts as high as 50%.

For people with a much lower budget a number of people have recommended the
Bernette or Pfaff Hobbymatic.  In the medium range Viking/Husquevarna has been
recommended several times.  Also a number of people have spoken highly of the
New Home machines (e.g. the Memory Craft 7500 and 8000) which tend to be as
much as $600 cheaper than the comparable Bernina, Pfaff and Elna models yet
have almost as many features.

Sew News has a regular column that includes reports about different sewing
machines and sergers. The June/July 1991 issue of Threads includes an article
discussing a reader's survey.  This article discusses the best machines
available under $300 and buying a used machine.  The Novemeber / December 1991
issue of Vogue Patterns lists many of the features of the high end
computerized sewing machines, including machines from Baby Lock, Bernina,
Necchi, New Home, Pfaff, Singer, Viking and White.  This article is a good
place to start when comparing the high-end machines.  The October / November
1992 issue of Threads includes an article explaining the differences between
mechanical, electronic and computerized sewing machines.

Many people favor buying a high end used sewing machine, particularly the
1950's and 1960's Singers (model 400 and 500 series) or a used Bernina, Pfaff
or Elna.  You can often purchase these from dealers in any reasonably large
city.  For example, I purchased a Singer Model 400 from the early 1960's for
about $150 in Seattle in 1990.  The older machines usually don't have
specialty embroidery stitches, but they often are extremely well made and sew
well with a wide variety of material.  Machines made in the 50's and 60's may
not have a stretch stitch; you may need to use a zig-zag when sewing knit
materials or activewear.  If you sew alot of clothing, pay particular
attention to the buttonholer on the used sewing machine.

A serger is a machine that produces a number of special stitches.  Some people
use the name "overlock machine" instead of "serger"; they are equivilent.  If
you look at the inside leg seam on a pair of commercial pants you will
usually find a seam that has been finished with a zig-zag like stitch that
binds the edges of the seams.  This seam was produced with a serger.  

A serger is useful for many tasks, including a) sewing and finishing a seam in
one step, b) sewing knits (sergers naturally produce stretch stitches), c)
making a small, neat, rolled edge on items like table cloths, napkins, or
simple curtains and d) sewing *very* *very* quickly!  People who have sergers
often swear by them.  You cannot *replace* a sewing machine with a serger
since a serger can never do things like buttonholes and is not really
appropriate for tasks like topstitching or tailoring.

Home sergers are a fairly new invention; they've been available since the mid
1970's and have gained popularity rapidly since the mid-80's.  There have been
many changes in home sergers in the past few years.  In addition to the
high-end brands mentioned for sewing machines, many people have been happy
with Babylock, Hobbylock, or White sergers. The April / May 1992 issue of
Threads (#39) includes an article comparing many high-end four and five thread
sergers.  The June / July 1992 issue of Threads includes a number of letters
with additional comments about sergers.  The Winter/Holiday 1991 issue of
Butterick has a feature story on sergers, including an extensive comparison
chart.  Sew News regularly has articles about different models of sergers.


4) Are there any archives for rec.crafts.textiles or alt.sewing? 

No.  However I have saved discussions of various topics and various summary
postings that I have made.  I will be happy to e-mail these to anyone who
wants them.  Note that I may send the files immediately but there's a good
chance that I'll wait and process all requests about once a week; this is not
an automagic server.  Your patience is appreciated.  Send your requests to
"alg@cs.cornell.edu".

I have saved discussions on:

- info on ABC quilts [ABC.quilts]
- badge makers (e.g. Badge-A-Minit) [badges]
- beginner sewing books [beginner.books] (Note: most of this is in the FAQ
	on sewing books!)
- making a blocking board for embroidery and crochet [blocking.board]
- boning (e.g. for corsets) or hoops (e.g. for hoop skirts) [boning.hoops]
- info about Burda publications, incl international distributors [Burda]
- buttons by mail order [buttons]
- making circular skirts (and hemming tips) [circular.skirt]
- articles about software for drafting patterns [computer.drafting.patterns]
- pointer to a book about copyright [copyright.for.artists]
- costume patterns, historical and SF/F [costume.patterns]
- list of DMC embroidery threads that are not colorfast [dmc.colorfast]
- info about down comforters and cleaning them [down.comforter]
- drying flowers [crafts/drying.flowers]
- plants for natural dyeing [dyeing.plants]
- some ecological issues w.r.t. natural vs. synthetics [ecological.issues]
- French knots and bullion knots [embroidery]
- fabric stores worth visiting while traveling [fabric.stores]
- fabrics by mail (a few misc postings) [fabrics, material, by.mail]
- French Hand Sewing [FHS]
- flat felled seams [flat.felled]
- list of Folkwear patterns (12/91) [folkwear]
- suggestions for hand-made gifts [gift.suggestions]
	CAUTION: I only saved the postings about ideas *I* like
- making hair scrunchies [hair.scrunchy]
- definition of haute couture [haute.couture]
- herbal moth repellants [herbal.moth.repellant]
- sources for leather [leather]
- invisable tying (for quilts) [invisable.tying]
- irons [irons]
- juggling balls [juggling.balls]
- knitting tips [knitting.tips]  
	Including postings on left-hand vs. right-hand knitting styles
- knitting machines [knitting.machines]
- lace making supplies, mail order [lace.making.supplies]
- some notes on making lingerie [lingerie]
- buying or making a table loom or loom for sampling [looms]
- sewing machines (long!!!!) [machines]
- some favorite patterns for men's shirts [mens.shirts]
- resources in NYC [nyc]
- pants fitting [pants.fitting]
- saving tissue paper patterns for multiple uses [pattern.bonding] 
	also copying patterns, including Burda patterns
- sewing outdoor gear (sumarized above) [patterns.down, outdoor.gear]
- pattern companies and how they add ease [pattern.sizing]
- Quilt + Pillow (sometimes called a Quillo) [quillow]
- Singer Reference Library books [reference] (see also FAQ on books)
- reversible knitting [reversible.knitting]
- scissors [scissors]
- sergers [sergers]
- sewing tips [sewing.tips] 
	Note: this is only the tips I found particularly novel or useful
- videos about sewing and related topics [sewing.videos]
- making shower curtains (a few postings) [shower.curtains]
- sand washed silk [silk]
- some notes on square dance dresses [square.dance]
- starching crocheted doilies and snowflakes (a few postings) [starch]
- fabric steamers (hand held variety) [steamers]
- sewing swimsuits, particularly without a serger [swimsuits]
- tailoring [tailoring] (see also FAQ on books)
- making historical tents [tents] (from rec.org.sca; predominantly 
  SCA related) 
- covering walls with fabric, for decor or as a design surface [wall.coverings]
- washing antique clothing [washing.antiques]
- hand washing wool sweaters [washing.sweaters]
- tables for sewing, cheap and functional options [workspace.table]
- programs for designing cross stitch [xstitch.programs]
- techniques for installing zippers (a few postings) [zippers]
- historical costuming and costuming in general [in mail sewing/40] (sumarized 
  in the historical costuming FAQ, but if you're hardcore you might 	
  want to see some of the originals that have been saved.)

I have saved postings I have made on:

- basting a full size quilt [basting.quilts]
- books about making craft equipment [craft.equipment]
- the Curved Strip Piecing for quilt [curved.strip.piecing]
	as described in _Curved Strip-Piecing_ by Marilyn Stothers 
- dress forms, purchasing industrial and make your own [dress.forms]
- a followup about making a dress form [dress.forms.supp] that was
	cross-posted to alt.bondage and is slightly, um, 
	different..... but does have some interesting info!
- books about dyeing [dyeing.edited] (particularly for using Procion MX 
  chemical dyes to dye cotton cloth) 
- enthusiastic recommendations of the Hidden Wells quilt pattern [hidden.wells]
- pattern for knitting a woman's simple tunic vest [knitted.vest]
- pattern alteration books [pattern.alteration.books] (summarized in the FAQ 
	on textile books)
- summary of books about drafting patterns [pattern.drafting] (summarized in
	the FAQ on textile books)
- making a luxurious, fully lined robe or housecoat [robes]
- *long* list of commercial quilting frames [quilt.frames]
- book report of general sewing books [sewing.book.report] (summarized in the
    FAQ on textile books)
- comments on underlining [underlining]
    
If you are looking for discussions on any particular topic, write me and if by
chance I saved it I'll send it to you.  Internet: alg@cs.cornell.edu UUCP:
cornell!alg BITNET: ANNE@CRNLVAX5 (Bitnet address is a last resort)


5) Are there any archives for cross stitch information? 

Shelly Johnson (shel@is.rice.edu) maintains some pseudo-archives with cross
stitch information from net postings.  There are no actual patterns nor
programs available in these files, simply discussions from the net.  Shelly's
files include:

The following entries read:
name.of.file, size in K, last modify date/time.

Xstitch/
catalogs             10  Dec  7 17:32
computer.programs    20  Dec  7 17:13
general.info         10  Dec 10 11:23
mailorder             5  May  7  1992
stores                9  Dec 10 11:01
survey.results       12  Dec  9  1991

Xstitch/Pattern.sources/
afro.amer.skincolors  2  Dec 10 11:10
airplanes             3  Dec 10 11:13
arkansas.landmarks    2  Dec 10 11:12
beatrix.potter       10  May  6  1992
beaver                1  Dec  7 17:37
brides.wedding       14  Dec 10 11:17
celtic                1  May 13  1992
cottages              2  Dec  7 17:14
fantasy               5  May 13  1992
marbek.angels        12  Dec  9 12:40
marbek.nativity       2  Dec 10 11:20
requests             13  Dec  8 12:55

Xstitch/Special.materials/
anne.cloth       12  Dec  8 11:23
bread.cloth       4  Dec  8 11:02
linen             7  Dec  8 11:47
metallic.thread   9  Dec 10 12:24
waste.canvas     12  Dec  8 10:47

Xstitch/Techniques/
acid.framing          12 Dec  8 17:30
blackwork              2 May 13  1992
brazilian.embroidery   2 Dec  7 15:58
bullion.knot           7 Dec  7 17:09
cleaning               3 May  7  1992
colorfasting           5 Dec  8 12:05
finishing.stocking     2 May  7  1992
framing                8 May  7  1992
french.knot            8 Dec  7 17:31
hoopless.xstitch      25 Dec  4 23:27
large.project         15 Dec  8 11:35
many.colors            6 Dec  8 10:27
neat.backs            12 Dec 10 11:39
outlining              4 Mar 17  1992
photo.to.graph         4 May 22  1992
quarter.stitch         4 Dec  7 17:20
reversible.xstitch     6 Dec  4 22:15
single.stitch          3 Dec  7 17:26
stain.removal          2 Dec  8 11:49
three.quarter.xstitch  3 Dec 10 11:25

Please contact Shelly at shel@is.rice.edu directly for copies of cross stitch
information.

If you are on a unix system, PLEASE include that information in your
request-the files can be sent to you tarred, compressed and uuencoded and in a
few pieces- and you'll have a nice directory when you undo it all then. If you
are NOT on a unix system, the files will be individually mailed to you-the
number of files you request is the number of mail messages you will get.

Please note that it may be a few days before your request is processed; this
is not an automagic server.


6) What are the addresses of various places?

Publications:

Threads & Folkwear Patterns
Taunton Press
63 South Main Street
Box 355
Newtown, CT 06470-9959
1-800-888-8286
$24/year in Jan 1992 for Threads, 6 issues per year; $2 for a Folkwear catalog

Sew News
PO Box 3134
Harlan, IA  51537-3134
1-800-289-6397
$17.83/year in Jan 1992, 12 issues per year (no longer in newspaper style)

German Language Publications, Inc.
560 Sylvan Avenue
Englewood Cliffs, NJ 07632
Burda: $60/year, 12 issues; $6/sample issue.  A number of other Burda
magazines for sewing and knitting (including kids, full figure, etc).  Each
issue of Burda contains many (20+) patterns that you can trace and make.  The
pattern sheets were re-designed in summer 1992 for better layout and more
consistant sizes (e.g.  each pattern available in 4 or 5 sizes; several
patterns on a special "snip and sew" sheet, etc). The sewing directions are
somewhat terse with minimal illustrations.  Send for a sample issue to see if
you like the format.

Vogue Patterns
Altoona, PA 16603
Approx $14 for 6 issues; each issue includes a 2-for-the-price-of-1 pattern 
coupon (plus $2 for shipping and handling)

Butterick Patterns
PO Box 569
Altoona, PA 16603
Approx $9 for 4 issues; each issue includes a 2-for-the-price-of-1 pattern 
coupon (plus $2 for shipping and handling)

McCalls Patterns
PO Box 3325
Manhattan, KS 66502-9917
1-800-MCCALL
Approx $10 for 4 issues; each issues includes a free pattern coupon ($1.50 for 
shipping and handling).


Sewing related notions:

Nancy's Notions
PO Box 683-BK5
Beaver Dam, WI 53916
(800) 833-0690 
- Free catalog.  Runs specials on prices and shipping several times a year.
Check the order form and read the catalog to be sure to find the discounts.
Excellent, thick catalog.  Also sells and rents sewing videos.

Clotilde
1909 SW First Ave.
Fort Lauderdale, Fl 33315-2100
(305) 761-8655
- Catalog costs $2, but they offer it free during certain times of the year.
Great place to find tailoring notions.  Most prices are discounted 10-20%
under retail prices.

The Perfect Notion
566 Hoyt Street
Darien, CT  06820
(203) 968-1257
- Catalog costs $1.  Has a good collection of helpful and hard to find
notions.

TreadleArt
25834-I Narbonne Ave.
Lomita, CA  90717
(213) 534-5122
(800) 327-4222
- Catalog costs $3.  Great supply of sewing, quilting and needlework books.
Lots of applique patterns and unique sewing ideas.  Okay supply of notions.

Atlanta Thread and Supply Co.
695 Red Oak Road
Stockbridge, GA  30281
(800) 847-1001
- Catalog is free.  Great supply of threads, especially of large serger cones.
Offers professional/industrial pressing equipment and sewing machines.  Hard
to find drapery notions.  Great if you sew for the home.

Thread Discount Sales
5960 E. Florence St.
PO Box 2277
Bell Gardens, CA  90201
(213) 773-8409
- No catalog, but offers free info sheets on heavily discounted sewing
machines, sergers and threads.  As of 1/92, machines are available only for
Calif residents (sorry!).  Thread available nationwide. Great if you want a
bargain.  Some industrial sewing machines available.

Sewing Emporium
1079 Third Avenue
Chula Vista, CA  92010
(619) 420-3490
- Charges for their very thick catalog, but they'll sometimes send it out free
anyway (just ask!).  Excellent place to get all kinds of pressor feet for your
sewing machine.  They'll design and make any pressor foot you can imagine.
Reasonable prices.  They also offer a unique, giant cutting board set-up.

Home-Sew 
P.O. Box 4099 
Bethlehem, PA 18018-0099
Good source of general supplies and notions. Send 50 cents for their Sample
Club card. Carries some inexpensive entredeux and embroideries.

Speed Stitch
PO Box 3472
Port Charlotte, FL  33952
(800) 874-4115
- Catalog costs $3 and it hasn't been reprinted since 1989.  An excellent
source for machine embroidery products, though.

Aardvark Territorial Enterprize
PO Box 2449
Livermore, CA 94551-0241
- Catalog $2 per issue or for $12 per year.  You get the next 4 issues "free"
with each order.  Huge collection of beads, embellishments, miscellaneous craft
supplies, tools, books.  The catalog includes many tips and alot of
interesting information.

Lacis
2982 Adeline Street
Berkeley, CA 94703
(415) 843-7178
- supplies for lace and bobbin lace

Better Pak
675 Dell Rd.
Carlstadt, NJ 07072
(201) 804-0202
- gridded pattern paper, the kind used in the garment industry.  In summer '92,
$39 +s/h for a 600 foot roll of 45" wide gridded paper.  Split a roll with your
friends!

Supplies for Dyeing Fabric:

Pro Chemical and Dye
P.O. Box 14 
Somerset MASS 02726
(508) 676-3838
- Catalog is free. Dyes for cottons, wools, silks, marbling, painting,
silkscreen, batik, etc.  Batik wax and fabric.

Rupert, Gibbon and Spider, Inc.
P.O. Box 425
Healdsburg, CA 95448
(800) 442-0455
- free catalog 

Dharma Trading Company
(800) 542-5227

Cerelean Blue
P.O. Box 21168
Seattle WA 98111
(800) 676-8602
- free catalog 

Brooks and Flynn
(are they still selling dyes?)
(address? phone number?)
- Supplies include blank Tshirts, scarves and other garments.

Test Fabrics
PO Box 420
Middlesex, NJ 08846
(908) 469-6446
- very wide selection of prewashed fabrics with no dyes or finishes.  Very nice
fabric, but somewhat expensive.

Thai Silks
252 State St.
Los Altos, CA 94022
(800) 722-7455 (in CA 800-221-7455)
- Large selection of silk scarves for dyeing.  Also other types of (colored) 
silk fabric for sewing!

Rupert, Gibbon and Spider, Inc
PO Box 425
Healdsburg, CA 95448
(800) 442-0455
- Scarf blanks, dyes, equipment, paints.

Sources For Books, including Out of Print Needlework Books:

Hard-To-Find-Needlework-Books
Bette Feinstein
96 Roundwood Rd.
Newton MA 02164
(617) 969-0942

Wooden Porch Books
Lois Meuller
RT1 Box 262
Middlebourne, WV  26149
- Charges $3 for next 3 catalogs

R.L.Shep
Box 668
Mendocino, CA 95460
- 1990-91 catalog has 1000 items.  $2.50 cataog.  Books, magazines and
reprints.  Books related to the costume and textile arts, including out of
print and hard to find books.  Shep has also reprinted a number of older
clothing books, including a couple of books of patterns for Victorian and
Edwardian clothing.


Unicorn Books
1338 Ross St
Petaluma, CA  94954-6502
1-800-289-9276 (1-800-BUY-YARN)
- Includes basketry, business of crafts, color, costume, dyeing, embroidery,
fabric decoration, fashion, history, ethnic, hand and machine knitting, lace
making, quilting, spinning and weaving, tailoring, pattern drafting, plus even
other stuff. A 48 page catalog of closely-typeset descriptions (newspaper
style), all of fiber-related books.  As of 1992 there appear to be separate
catalogs one each for sewing- and weaving- related crafts. Unicorn has
reasonable return policies, cheap shipping, and extensive descriptions.  Most
(all?) of the books are new, but many of the books are no longer listed in
Books In Print and are difficult to find elsewhere.



Dover Publications
31 East 2nd St
Mineola, NY 11501
- Dover reprints older books that are no longer covered by the original
copyright.  Most of Dover's books are low-priced paperbacks.  You may wish to
request the Needlework Catalog and the Pictorial Archive Catalog.


Interweave Press
201 East Fourth Street
Loveland, CO 80537
- Handwoven magazine and another spinning magazine (Spin-Off?).  Publishes
quite a few books for weavers, spinners and dyers.


Discontinued Patterns:

Sandra Betzina notes that most pattern companies retain copies of their
patterns for about a year.  You can check with your fabric store or call the
pattern companies to check their discontinued stock. 
	Vogue and Butterick 		 	1-800-221-2670
		(note: I haven't been able to reach this from NY State)
	McCalls 				212-880-2624
	Simplicity, Style and New Look 		1-800-223-1664
	Burda discontinued patterns are not available


EZ Patterns
118 Florence Ave
Evanston IL 60602
See comments in "Questions" column in June/July 1992 Threads (#40). EZ
Patterns buys and sells discontinued patterns.  Send them the pattern number,
company name, sizes and a brief description or sketch.  Note that pattern
numbers are reused, so you'll need to include the name, number AND
description!  If you know the year of issue and/or original price this will
help.  EZ Patterns discourages sending in a request without a pattern number.


See also:

The Fabric and Fiber Sourcebook by Bobbi A. McRae.  copyright 1989 by Taunton
Press.  ISBN 0-942391-18-7 $12.95.
Lists mail order sources for *everything* including sewing, knitting,
quilting, weaving, basketry, workshops, etc.  McRae will be updating and
publishing the Fabric and Fiber Sourcebook for the 3rd edition under the title
The New Fiberworks Sourcebook starting summer 1992.


The Quilter's Catalog by Vicki Brooks and Linda Stokes. Copyright 1987 by The
Main Street Press. ISBN 1-55562-003-5 $12.95
- Often available as a remaindered book.  This book contains lots of sources
for quilters, but the info in it is getting a bit dated.


Designer Source Listing: $19.95 (ppd) from:
	Carikean Publishing
	Box 11771
	227 E. Ontario St
	Chicago, IL 60611-0771
	312-728-6118
Sections include Beads, Books, Buttons and fasteners, Feather fur and leather,
Notions, Labels and tags, Laces and lacemaking equipment, Millinery supplies,
Paints and dyes, Patterns, Services, Software, Threads and yarns, Video,
Workshops and seminars.  I have not personally reviewed this book and I do not
know when the current edition (Vol IV) was published.

Look through the ads in Sew News or the back of Threads.

List compiled by:
Anne Louise Gockel (alg@cs.cornell.edu)
Diane Barlow Close (close@lunch.wpd.sgi.com)
Marie-Christine (MAHE-MARIE-CHRISTINE@YALE.EDU)
charleen@ads.com (Charleen Bunjiovianna)
Marina.Salume@Corp.Sun.COM (Marina Salume)



7) What are the best periodicals and sources for Heirloom Sewing (also known
   as French Hand Sewing) projects? 

Heirloom sewing beganas an attempt to recreate some antique clothing, usually
the white dresses with lace inserts all over the place.  There are many new
patterns available. You use fine, lightweight fabrics like cotton voile or
batiste, silk, or the "baby" wale corduroy.  You add ruffles made from fine
imported French laces, and maybe a touch of delicate hand embroidery. Bullion
knot roses and shadow embroidery are very popular.  About half the patterns
have smocking on them, usually on the yoke of a dress.

It helps to have a good sewing machine, that can handle delicate fabrics and
do some fancy stitching. Originally heirloom sewing was all done by hand (e.g.
French Hand Sewing) but there are several books out now on how to do it by
machine. Using a machine is a slow process, but it is faster than doing the
work by hand.

Periodicals Recommended:
	Sew Beautiful
	Subscription Dept. 518
	Madison St.
	Huntsville, AL 35801-4286
	(205)-533-9586

	Creative Sewing
	Box 99
	Lookout Mountain, TN 37350
	1-800-443-3127

Both of these publications cover heirloom sewing, and also include other types
of sewing techniques. Lots of how-to articles and inspirational photos. Both
also include one or more free patterns bound into each issue.  The Singer
Reference Library book _Decorative Machine Sewing_ includes a section on
Heirloom Sewing.


Mail Order Sources for Fabrics, Laces and Supplies:

	The Unique Needle
	539 Blossom Way
	Hayward, CA 94541
	415-727-9130
	Rumor has it she has a mailing list.

	Sweet Child of Mine		or	Sweet Child of Mine
	139 East Fremont Avenue			3720 Miramesa Ct. Bldg 116
	Sunnyvale, CA 94087			Santa Clara, CA 95051
	408-720-8426
	Hours: Mon, Tues, Wed from 11-4:30; Sat. 12:30-3:30 pm

	Home-Sew 
	P.O. Box 4099 
	Bethlehem, PA 18018-0099
	carries some inexpensive entredeux and embroideries.  Might be good for
	practice for someone who is just embarking on heirloom sewing.


Nancy's Notions (address above) sells entredeux. 
Carolea's is a well known place in Sunnyvale, California, but the laces 
	and entredeux there can be a bit more expensive than mail order 
	sources.

For patterns for clothing for the American Dolls from the Pleasant Company:
	Fancywork and Fashion
	4728 Dodge Street
	Duluth, MN  55804
	(218) 525-2442
	$2 for catalog

A nice nightgown pattern called "Julie's Gown" is available from:
	Susan Oliver
	A Work of Heart Studio
	P.O. Box 1477
	Nevada City, CA 95959
	(916) 265-4433

Also check some of the speciality pattern companies such as Campbells (see the
FAQ on historical costuming).

Acknowledgements:
Marina.Salume@Corp.Sun.COM (Marina Salume)
Diane Barlow Close (close@lunch.wpd.sgi.com)
Kathie (address unknown)
conib@peri.gvg.tek.com (Coni Britten)
charleen@ads.com (Charleen Bunjiovianna)



8) Where can I get natural fabrics by mail order?

Sewing Sampler Productions
PO Box 39, 
Springfield, MN 56087
(800) 772-5011  or (507) 723-5011
Retail and mail order. $3.50 UPS shipping charge (USA) per order.

Regular line of Cotton Club interlock and French Terry (100% Cotton) with
matching ribbing. Excellent quality; seems to equal Hanna quality. Interlock
and French Terry are $9 yd (1992); supplex is 5.50/yd. They carry Oshkosh and
Healthtex fabrics as well as notions like snaps, collars and woven patches.

Three catalogs (basics, fashion fabrics, kids). Two swatching services for $10
each.  Several newsletters also.  Please mention me (Grace Sylvan, Lewiston
Drive, San Jose, CA) if you decide to subscribe to the swatching service (and
I get a small credit, thanks to you, and you get wonderful swatches delivered
to your door).


Sew Natural Fabrics by Mail
4650 Bishop Road, 
Mechanicsville MD 20659
(800) 368-0126  or  (301) 373-3067
$3.50 UPS shipping charge (USA) per order.

A home business that seems to be expanding into imported cotton laces and
pearl buttons and other fancies. (send an SASE for lace and button info).

Interlocks, French Terry; several weights, close in quality to Sewing Sampler,
but fewer colors, and lower cost. Material $5.50 a yard; interlocks generally
$5-$7 a yard (1992).  Some matching ribbings (or use the interlock instead).
Good selection of wovens - chambray, denim, flannel, shirtings, etc.  Petit
Bateau striped rib knit, for 3.24/yd (May 92).  The Petit Bateau rib seems to
wash and wear extremely well, comparable to Hannas.  Ultrex, a breathable,
waterproof microcoated supplex, good for rain/snow gear and diaper covers.

Notions include elastic, the _Easy Sewing_ book series, Stretch & Sew and Kwik
Sew patterns.  Swatch sets: $1 each for knits, knit stripes, or wovens/linens.


Jennifer's Fabric by Mail
53 Yorkshire Rd, 
Lexington, Ohio  44904
(419) 884-3328
$3.50 UPS shipping charge (USA) per order.

A home run business, pretty new (1992). Unique catalog: a) lists which
fabrics will coordinate, and b) lists how stretchy the fabric is.

Interlocks usually $6.50-$8/yd range, a few for $3-$4/yd; matching ribbing for
most.  Some fabric that was used Soupcon outfits from last year.  Some striped
interlocks, Kwik Sew patterns, some sewing books, and no notions (so far).
Complete swatch sets are $3.50, free with an order.


Acknowledgements:
tigger@satyr.sylvan.com (Tigger (Grace Sylvan))
	You may wish to write to Grace for the most up to date info.


9) Would anyone like to exchange quilt blocks?

Send mail to "listserv@cornell.edu" with the line "info quilt" in the body of
the message.  This informational message describes the maillist and includes
instructions for using listserv's services.  When you subscribe to the
maillist (send the line "sub quilt Your Name" to listserv@cornell.edu) you
will receive more information about the maillist and the exchanges.  If you
have problems, contact "alg@cs.cornell.edu" (UUCP: cornell!alg).

We run two exchange groups, one on a strict monthly schedule and one ad hoc
group of one on one exchanges.  We also have a maillist where we discuss
various quilting issues from time to time.  You do not need to participate in
the exchanges in order to participate in the maillist.

Please note: The maillist moved from Dartmouth to Cornell in May-June 1992.


10) I've just been given my Great Grandmother's sewing machine.  Can anyone
help me fix it or restore it?

> Gosh, the machine I have must be about 60 years old.  It's a
> treadle machine that has been motorized.  I do not know if I
> want to remove the motor or not.  Also, the veneer on the
> cabinet is in pretty bad shape.  I'm going to have it replaced.
> Do you have any suggestions?

Well, first of all, anything you do to the machine lessens its
value as an antique (so I was told) so the first thing to do is
to decide whether you want the antique value of the machine or
just a really nice, spiffy looking treadle.

In my case I wanted a really nice, spiffy looking treadle that
could double as my everyday sewing cabinet and also be a nice
showpiece.  I don't care about the supposed antique value.  My
Grandmother had abused her treadle and it had been stored for 40
years in my Dad's workshop so you can imagine what it looked
like!  Gouged, paint-splattered cabinet, dust everywhere, rusted
grill work and the head was covered in black grime.

The first thing I did was take lots of photos of it from all
angles so I would know how to put it back together after taking
it apart.  Next I took it apart.  Then I used very mild paint
stripper (3M special gel-type) to remove the varnish from the
cabinet pieces and the paint from the iron grill work.

I should state right now that you should TEST ALL CHEMICAL YOU
PLAN TO USE ON THE MACHINE IN AN INCONSPICUOUS PLACE FIRST!!  The
paints and varnishes of yesteryear are quite different from those
that exist today.  Often today's stuff is far too strong for
those old finishes to handle.

After removing all the paint, I washed the whole thing off with a
water-dishsoap mixture and rinsed it all thoroughly.  Then I
dried everything and let the grill work ``age'' for a few days
(lets the iron ``set'' properly).  Then I spray painted the iron
work with a rust protector followed by a black acrylic gloss.  I
then sanded the cabinet and ``varnished'' it with a cherry wood
urethane.

I should mention that most veneers in those days were cherry wood
veneers, whereas most today are of oak.  Cherry wood is very
expensive these days so you might have problems replacing the
veneer.  I filled in small holes with wood filler and large ones
with a combination of glue, wood chips and wood pieces and sanded
carefully.

Now for the machine head:  I should put in here that whatever you
do, DON'T clean the machine head with alcohol!!!!  The old paints
and varnishes that were used at that time are very sensitive to
alcohols and such.  DON'T USE THEM TO CLEAN YOUR MACHINE!!!

I used wd-40 to work through the top layers of grime.  Boy was I
surprised to find gorgeous gold decals of phoenix's rising from
the ashes and such.  I VERY GENTLY scrubbed away the rest of the
grime using water and dishwashing soap.  I let the whole thing
dry for two days and then covered the head (brushed on) with
several coats of future floor polish.  Then I oiled the heck out
of the insides using sewing machine oil.

Voila!  A mear 4 months later (and I thought it was going to be a
weekend project! :-) it looks gorgeous!  Of course the antique
lovers are horrified but I'm very, very happy with the project.

Now, if you want to keep the antique value of your machine you
are going to have to take a different tact:  immediately go to
the library and get as many books as you can on restoring
antiques.  Talk to antique dealers.  Etc.  This is what I did at
first and is what helped me decide that keeping the antique
``value'' was too much work and bother.  It can be very rewarding
for the right person and the right project, but it just wasn't
for me.

Singer Service Centers actually still do repair and restore
antique machines -- the _real_ service centers (the ones run by
Singer, not the ones running in back of a sewing store) have to
service and repair all machines made by Singer, not just the
current batch.

As for whether or not to remove the motor:  most early treadles
were indeed ``motorized'' aftermarket.  That's how the first
machines were ``upgraded'' so the owners didn't have to go out
and buy one of the ``new'' motorized ones and junk their old
machine.  You'll have to look at the job very carefully as
removing the motor and restoring the machine back to its
treadle state might not be as easy as you think.  That's where
pictures and information about the original machine would help. 

> Are there any books on this stuff?  My treadle doesn't have a
> manual.  Is there anything I can do?

Singer Company itself can get you a copy of the original manual
if you know the model number.  Not a catch 22 like you think; a
call to your local Singer Service Center and a brief description
of the machine results in a model # in most cases (for example,
the woman in charge asked what kind of bobbin my machine used and
how it loaded (front or side of machine) and from that said ``oh,
you have a #128 vibrating shuttle model.''  The charge for an
owner's manual is generally around $4.  Singer can be reached at
1-908-287-0707 to get the number of the offical service center
nearest you.

You can also look in the library for books about old sewing
machines.  There's a book available through the Santa Clara
County Library (Cupertino branch) called _Machine Sewing_ by the
Singer Sewing Machine Co. and published in 1923 and updated to
contain all Singer machines through 1938.  It tells you
everything you'd ever want to know about those machines and their
attachments.  Get it on interlibrary loan if you're interested.
(Santa Clara County library system, Cupertino branch, Card 
catalogue # 646.21 SINGER)


This information was contributed by:
Diane Barlow Close (close@lunch.wpd.sgi.com)


11) Where can I get an up to date copy of this FAQ?

When looking for an FAQ list, first do the obvious and check the relevant
newsgroup for articles with "FAQ" in the subject line.  If you don't know how
to check articles marked as read, your sysadmin can tell you. Next, try the
group news.answers since this FAQ is crossposted there.  Again, your sysadmin
can tell you the commands to use in searching.

If you cannot find the FAQ on your system, you can retrieve a copy from
Jonathan Kamen's archive of periodic postings.  For general instructions on
the server, send email containing the commands "help" and "send index" (no
quotes, separate lines) to
	mail-server@pit-manager.mit.edu  
For a list of all periodic postings that are archives in news.answers, email
the command "send usenet/news.answers/index" to the server.

via anonymous FTP:
Periodic postings including FAQs are archived at "pit-manager.mit.edu"
(18.72.1.58), in the directory "/pub/usenet". The textile FAQs are:
    /pub/usenet/news.answers/crafts-textiles
    /pub/usenet/news.answers/crafts-historical-costuming
    /pub/usenet/news.answers/crafts-textiles-books/part1
    /pub/usenet/news.answers/crafts-textiles-books/part2

via email server:
The address of the server is mail-server@pit-manager.mit.edu.  To retrieve
files, send email to the server with a blank subject and one or more of these
lines in the body:
    send usenet/news.answers/crafts-textiles
    send usenet/news.answers/crafts-historical-costuming
    send usenet/news.answers/crafts-textiles-books/part1
    send usenet/news.answers/crafts-textiles-books/part2

----------------------------------------------------------------
					-Anne Louise Gockel
					Cornell Computer Science

Internet: alg@cs.cornell.edu		UUCP: cornell!alg