From: slk6p@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Potassium Sorbate Q.
Date: 4 Sep 92 02:55:33 MDT
Organization: Utah State University

In article <23147@hacgate.SCG.HAC.COM>, abirenbo@rigel.cel.scg.hac.com (Aaron Birenboim) writes:
> In article <1992Sep03.025024.2567@wb9rxw.lonestar.org> gary@wb9rxw.lonestar.org (Gary Partain) writes:
>>
>>  I would like to stop fermentation of mead at about the
>>3 week point.  Is potassium sorbate the right stuff for the job?
> 
> unfortunately no.  I believe Pot. Soribate only acts on dormant yeast.
> I.E.  it kills only dormant yeast, or keeps doemant yeast from
> re-acticvating.  (any u-biologists care to comment?)  The usual
> method of use is to let a mead ferment dry (like S.G. 0.992),
> add pot. sorobate, wait 1 hour, then sweeten to taste.
*This is basically true for sorbate and campden tablets.  They are 
designed to inhibit ACTIVATION of yeasts, bacteria etc.  They will not
STOP ACTIVE yeast, only keep them from getting started.  
I would hate to try pasteurizing a fermented mead.  I can't imagine
heating it, even to 150-160 (not above) would do good things to the 
delicate flavors developed, not to mention the alcohol that would be 
volatilized. 
I agree that you should let it ferment out.  What's the hurry?  Don't
you WANT alcohol in your mead?    Several of mine had finished fermenting
after 2 months, others took up from 6.  One Cyser seemed like it would
never quit, so I just bottled it.  It is thouroghly carbonated, but the 
champagne bottles have had no problem.  The corks sure fly though.
> 
> To stop an active fermentation you could pasturize (heat to
> i dunno.... say 160F for 45 min, or pressure can it), or
> filter.  My camping filter is rated at 1 or 2 micron.  This is
> not bacteria grade, but i bet it would filter out yeast.  However,
> it would plug my camping filter for sure.  I'm sure there
> are some readers who filter beer regularly.... any comments?
Actually most bacteria are 1-2 microns, so this pore size filter would be
good enuf for bacteria.  Yeast are on the order of 3-5 microns (or so) so it
would get them ok.  
Yeah-  who does filter and what do you use?
> 
>>  Also, can it be boiled to sanitize it?
NONONONONONONO.  You will lose all the alcohol, and who knows what else.
The whole process of manipulating it into a pot to boil it is most assuredly
garanteed to OXIDIZE the hell out of it!  Oxidation is a bad thing!
If you need the cardude so bad, hell - go buy another one!  Start in a bucket,
whatever it takes.  Mead is worth the wait.
> 
> i don't know if this is really OK, but i have done it without
> any problems (no re-fermentation).
> 
> In my personal experience I have only really liked higher alchahol meads
> where they yeast was killed by alchahol poisoning. (sweet and still).
> You need a lot of honey for good honey character, and sweetness
> to enhance that character.  I find that carbonation somehow
> detracts from the honey character, and is not to my liking.
I actually enjoy the sparkle.  I made one REALLY strong mead which killed the
yeasts, but it is really a sipping wine- like a port, or sherry (almost
brandy-like, but quite sweet).  Most of the others have sparkled delightfully. 
I really enjoy the bubbles,  they tend to help it hit you faster too.  
A fun thing to try:  Drop in a wrinkly raisin and watch it play submarine...
Sinks to bottom.  Collects bubbles.  Floats to top.  Loses bubbles, sinks etc.
> 
Fun and kicks with mead.  Or you could just drink it......

					J. Wyllie (The Coyote) SLK6P@cc.usu.edu

> --
> Aaron Birenboim                                |I am just too tired to think
> abirenbo%rigel.cel.scg.hac.com@hac2arpa.hac.com|of a good quote.
> abirenbo@isis.cs.du.edu                        |    - ChickenHead
> w (303) 344-6486                               |
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