HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: changw@nmt.edu (Willie*)
Subject: Re: Leaking brake fluid.  How to find leak
Keywords: rear brake fix, brake fluid leaks
Organization: New Mexico Tech
Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1993 12:54:27 GMT


E-mail bounced.  Anyway, here's the msg to: <ahusain.41@comm1>
 
I just replaced a boost cylinder in one rear brake.  I heard howling
noise (small) and notice a little drop on fluid level.  I took down
the tire and the brake drum (cover), squeezed the rubber boosts and
there's seepage of brake fluid coming out.
I got the part for about $25 (there's a rebuilt kit for $6 but
it's recommended to replce the whole boost cylinder which pushes
brake pads against the cover drum when brake fluid are pressed
to it.) and just pulled off a spring, unlocked the old one and put
in the new one, and put back the spring, bled the fluid thru
the new boost cylinder.  That's all.
Good luck!
willie*
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: Problems with my Jeep (AMC 4.2L 258)
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 18:17:19 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 You could have a choke that is stuck open, or you could have some sort of
problem with losing the gas that was in the carb bowl, and have to crank to
refill it.

 The choke operation is easy to verify. Park it hot, let it cool. Take off
the air cleaner and look at the choke plate. Should be straight vertical.
Now open the throttle slightly (use the throttle linkage). The choke plate
should snap shut, or partially so. If it moves slowly, it needs cleaning.
If it doesn't move, its linkage may have come disconnected or the housing
(for water or electrical chokes) may have rotated, it may be nicely gummed
open, etc.

 Some carbs develop gasket leaks which allow the gas in the bowl to drain into
the intake; then you end up with an empty carb (causing a cold starting
problem) and possibly hot starting troubles as well, if it sits for just 
enough time to drain, flooding the intake, but not enough to boil it all
away.

 A dry carb can be checked by working the throttle linkage and observing
the accelerator pump shot. If it squirts once or twice but not after that, 
or not at all, you may deduce that there is not much gas in the carb
(assuming otherwise normal accelerator pump operation).
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
From: lee@hsh.com (Lee Havemann)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Gas-resistant adhesive
Date: 8 Jan 93 15:57:21 GMT
Organization: HSH Associates

In article <1993Jan7.174711.12606@infonode.ingr.com>, jjolly@jjolly.b24a.ingr.com (Jack G. Jolly) writes:
> I bought a locking gas cap for my '72 vette  a while back.  On the underside
> it has a rubber gasket which came off within about 3 weeks.  I tried to stick
> it back on with a variety of adhesives w/o luck - any suggestions for a "rubber
> to metal" adhesive that can withstand gas vapors??
> 


Permatex form-a-gasket (the blue stuff) would do what you want. I know I sure
have a bitch of a time getting it off valve covers when you change the
gaskets :-) 

Or any of the gasket adhesives, like spray tack, are also immune to petroleum
distillates. Just make sure that the parts are clean and dry before you apply
it. 


-- 

 Lee Havemann, Comp Ops Dir.    HSH Associates      (201) 838-3330 
 Internet: lee@hsh.com    Compuserve: 70410,3507    AOL: HSH Assoc
 "Any opinions expressed are not necessarily those of anyone else, 
  including myself."                     
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kenny@osf.org (Kenneth Crudup)
Subject: Re: Diacom ECM Software Review
Summary:  Yes, I *hate* this
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1993 21:37:31 GMT

In article <8iJ5wB2w165w@cybernet.cse.fau.edu>
vlasis@cybernet.cse.fau.edu (vlasis theodore) writes:

[...entire long previous article deleted *this* time ....]

>does anybody know of similar programs for Japanese or European cars ?

...did you have to quote >85 lines of text to ask this?

	-Kenny

-- 
Kenny Crudup, Contractor, OSF DCE QA
OSF, 11 Cambridge Center, Cambridge, MA 02142	+1 617 621 7306
kenny@osf.osf.org			OSF has nothing to do with this post.
	  Religion: The longest-running gag ever played on Mankind.
From: bozek@ecs.umass.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Purchasing a Toyota 4x4 v6, HELP!
Date: 7 Jan 93 09:25:47 GMT

Looks like we are purchasing a Toyota 4x4, '89 w/ 40,000 miles.

I would appreciate any info on typical trouble spots that

should be closely checked. I'll be crawling all over

and Wendy will be doing the test driving.

Thanks

Bozek@umaecs.edu
From: csmith@plains.NoDak.edu (Carl Smith)
Subject: Re: How to store a car for 6 months
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 21:17:16 GMT
Organization: North Dakota Higher Education Computing Network

In article <C0G172.4L0@icon.rose.hp.com> dsantos@hprnd.rose.hp.com (David Santos) writes:
>    - Set some mouse traps in and around the car to prevent those little
>      critters from eatting you upolstery. 

Nibbles in the upolstery are the least of your concerns with mice.
They have the bad habit of building nests in your heater/ac air
passages, and when you fire the car up for the first time after
many months you are hit by the intolerable stench of aged mouse
droppings and possibly dead decomposing mouse carcasses.

To fix the problem you are usually stuck dismatling the dash and
scrubbing out all the heater/ac ducts very thouroughly...

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: finnegan@invader.navo.navy.mil (Kenneth Finnegan)
Subject: ABS/TRAX Experience?
Reply-To: finnegan@navo.navy.mil
Organization: Grumman Data Systems	
Nntp-Posting-Host-[nntpd-10062]: invader.navo.navy.mil
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 18:42:14 GMT

Anyone have any experience with the ABS/TRAX all mechanical
aftermarket ABS system?  I see their ads all the time in
C&D and other rags.  I'm not as interested in the theory
behind the operation as I am in how well the system
performs in a practical sense.

Thanks,

Kenneth
finnegan@navo.navy.mil
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: vlasis@cybernet.cse.fau.edu (vlasis theodore)
Subject: Re: 85 Honda Accord LX
Keywords: car, honda, auto
Organization: Cybernet BBS, Boca Raton, Florida
Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1993 18:59:51 GMT

dmartin@pico.engr.mun.ca (Dan Martin) writes:

> 
> Does anyone know the book value on a 85 Honda Accord LX, standard, with
> 166000 kms.  I checked almost every book store in my area but couldn't 
> find the "black book" anywhere.  I am thinking about buying it for
> $1800.  Is there problems with old accords that I should look out for?
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> Dan
> email:dmartin@pico.engr.mun.ca



according to the 1993 AUTO PRICE ALMANAC here are the numbers

1985 ACCORD LX         $LIST     $AVERAGE WHOLSL    $AVRG RETAIL
     HB 3D               7895           1925           2725
   SEDAN 4D LX           10295          2575           3525


Vlasis
From: pnkerton@hpindda.cup.hp.com (Phil Pinkerton)
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 16:26:17 GMT
Subject: AUDI#1
Organization: HP Information Networks, Cupertino, CA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

More Audi Problems: Previous Problems 1. smoke was anti-freeze in exhaust
replaced head gasket smoke appeared to clear-up but #2 only could get
2200 rpm after putting it all back together. Decided to adjust timming.

#3: Manual described cam sprocket as having a TDC mark facing windshield
    and lined-up with cam-cover right-side facing windshield. And an O
    mark on the flywheel. Well

    a. The sprocket on my Audi 5000 turbo ( 7.0:1 ) 2.2 litre engine
       has a mark OUTSIDE facing  grill.
    
    b. I cannot find an "O" mark on the flywheel only a raised mark
       which appears to be a timming mark. Assuming I'm not totally
       stupid I'm looking at the drivers side of the engine near the
       firewall at the openning in the flywheel.

    c. The manual describes this 1981 model's distributors rotor
       is suppose to point at the clamp opposite the vacuum unit
       this I assume is pointing to the #1 plug wire.

       taking all this into account I wasn't sure where TDC was so
       I removed the #1 spark-plug and manually turned the crankshaft

       
       see AUDI#2
       I removed the #1 spark-plug and manually rotated the crankshaft
	
 





       with a wrench on the cam-sprocket bolt until I felt air pressure

       until the piston was at the top.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: neal@cmptrc.lonestar.org (Neal Howard)
Subject: Re: Carter Quadrajet?
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 22:17:02 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: CompuTrac Inc., Richardson TX

In article <1993Jan11.125538.14971@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu> dwsmall@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu (Derek 'Enzo' Small) writes:
>the parts are all form the same CFM carb.  It's been a while but
>I think Rochester was the sole manufacturer of the larger 1150 CFM carb.

1150CFM, Wow!!  What years/models/engines came with an 1150 CFM Q-jet?

I'm wanting to trash the 750 CFM Thermoquad I currently have on my 429CJ
Ford engine and the original 750CFM Q-jet it came with is too wimpy. A 
Holly 850 double pumper just simply drank too much gas and I hated using an
adaptor plate between it and the stock spreadbore 429CJ intake manifold. It 
sounds just like an 1150CFM Q-jet is just what I need since the engine did
give the best overall driveability on the street with the original 750 Q-jet 
and I want a little bit bigger carb than that.

-- 
=============================================================================
Neal Howard   '91 XLH-1200      DoD #686      CompuTrac, Inc (Richardson, TX)
	      doh #0000001200
         "Let us learn to dream, gentlemen, and then perhaps
          we shall learn the truth." -- August Kekule' (1890)
=============================================================================
From: st1q9@rosie.uh.edu (Devine, Della M)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Chevy Tire Alignment
Date: 11 Jan 1993 16:02 CST
Organization: University of Houston
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: rosie.uh.edu
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    

  I was wondering if anybody could send me the best way to align the 
front end on my 1976 Chevrolet 2WD Blazer.  I need to align them to where
my tires won't wear out until i can afford to take it to a shop to have it
done better.  After i changed the upper tie rods i aligned it a lot better
than it was, (it's like 1/8" off) but i'm still getting a little wear on the
outside right tire.  Anybody got any cool ways they do theirs without having
to buy $$$$'s worth of equipment...something like a tape measure and ratchets?

                              thanx 
                              william c devine, ii

reply to:devine@pvhep.pvamu.edu
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:17736 rec.autos:31529
From: sontakke@helix.enet.dec.com (Vikas Sontakke)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
Subject: Seatback broken?? (Honda Prelude 83)
Date: 11 Jan 93 13:27:04 GMT
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation


As I was adjusting the seatback for rake angle, something snapped off and the
seatback in my 83 Honda Prelude has become loose.  It just stays off  in the
completely reclined position.  The release mechanism assembly (i.e. the spring 
loaded  handle on the side) seems to have separated from the seat. I have not
had any opportunity to investigate yet.  However, I have found a bolt lying down
under the seat.

Has anyone encountered similar problems?  Are these easy to fix?  Any 
advice/help will be appreciated.

Thanks,
Vikas Sontakke		Digital Equipment Corporation, Maynard MA.
Internet:		sontakke@helix.enet.dec.com
    uucp:		{decvax,ucbvax,allegra}!decwrl!helix.enet!sontakke
			sontakke%helix.enet@decwrl.dec.com
From: Michel_Denber.WBST147@xerox.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: C3 ECM schematics available somewhere?
Date: 11 Jan 1993 12:16:18 -0600
Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu

	"I was wondering if the schematics for GM's C3 2.8PFI ECM's are
available somewhere?"

I wouldn't mind getting ahold of that information myself (or better yet, the
P4).  However, judging by how tight GM is even with their lousy serial data,
I'd say you've got a lot better chance of finding out what Geroge Bush knew
about Iran and the Contras.  Let us know if you have any success.  Good luck!

			- Michel

denber.wbst147@xerox.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dhepner@cup.hp.com (Dan Hepner)
Subject: Re: Gas-resistant adhesive
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 21:59:16 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1scd1 PL4

>From: jjolly@jjolly.b24a.ingr.com (Jack G. Jolly)
>Subject: Gas-resistant adhesive

>I bought a locking gas cap for my '72 vette  a while back.  On the underside
>it has a rubber gasket which came off within about 3 weeks.  I tried to stick
>it back on with a variety of adhesives w/o luck - any suggestions for a "rubber
>to metal" adhesive that can withstand gas vapors??

In a slightly different usage, ordinary chewing gum can be used to
plug small holes in a gas tank.  It might work for an adhesive also.

Dan Hepner
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: What is the resonable oil comsumption?
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 12 Jan 93 20:07:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


=> |>  >I would not call 1 quart/1000 miles normal for any reasonably
=> new car. |>

-> |> How about an RX-7?  :-)

> I knew when I was typing this I should have said "gasoline
> piston-engine" car.


 My wife's '79 RX-7 doesn't use enough oil to notice; it's barely off
the full mark between oil changes.  (yes, the pump is set correctly)
A friend's '90 Corvette usually sucks about a quart between 3000 mile
changes; the owner's manual states GM won't even consider a warranty
claim unless it uses more than one quart every 500 miles.
                                                 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: zrol01@trc.amoco.com (Richard O. Lindsay)
Subject: Tire noise
Reply-To: zrol01@trc.amoco.com
Organization: Amoco Production Company, Tulsa Research
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 21:33:29 GMT

In all the literature I have read about the Jaguar XJ-6 
Series I, the authors go on and on about how Jaguar 
contracted Dunlop to build an ultra-quiet tire for their
ultra-luxary car.  Well, the scheme worked.  The XJ-6 was 
THE quietest luxury car for a number of years.  Even quieter 
than RR and Bentley primarily because of the Dunlop radials!  
Today those tires are available but VERY expensive and hense 
the question.

Do any of you out there in rec.autos.tech-land know of a 
cheaper, quiet tire?  My XJ-S has 235-60SR15's on it and they 
are LOUD.  As I can't hear or feel that big silky smooth V12 
and wind noise is minimal, I would surely like to put a 
quieter tire for the car.  Advice???

Rick

------------------------------------------------------------
     Richard O. Lindsay        /     __  __      __  __
  Senior Research Scientist   /   / /_/ /_  / / /_/ /_/
  Amoco Production Research  /   / / / /_/ /_/ / / / \
                            / /_/
                           /
My opinions are my own, until they're worth something, at
which point they become the property of my employer...
------------------------------------------------------------
From: lee@hsh.com (Lee Havemann)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Oh No!  I need the doctors advice!
Date: 12 Jan 93 21:51:30 GMT
Organization: HSH Associates

In article <tv-3t!b@rpi.edu>, kokerj@vccsouth10.its.rpi.edu (James Matthew Kokernak) writes:
> In article <1993Jan11.122915.461@hsh.com>, lee@hsh.com (Lee Havemann) writes:    
> |> radiator? Water coming out the exhaust pipe?
>              ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
> Correct me if I'm wrong, but an ideal gasoline engines exhaust should be
> comprised of water and carbon dioxide, shouldn't it? The carbon monoxide
> and hydrocarbons are byproducts of incomplete combustion. My point is that
> it is normal and in fact healthy to see some water coming out of the 
> tail pipe. BTW, I agree with everything else though.
> 
> --Jim


I meant _serious_ amounts of liquid water - not water vapour - coming out of the
exhaust pipe. One of the cars that had a blown head gasket had enough water 
coming out of the pipe to fill a coffee cup up in less than a minute.

-- 

 Lee Havemann, Comp Ops Dir.    HSH Associates      (201) 838-3330 
 Internet: lee@hsh.com    Compuserve: 70410,3507    AOL: HSH Assoc
 "Any opinions expressed are not necessarily those of anyone else, 
  including myself."                     
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sosc1092@wc14.writer.yorku.ca (Vijay Doobay)
Subject: Re: roll cage/bar and harness needed
Organization: York University
Distribution: Anywhere, and Everywhere
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 16:09:14 GMT

In article <103256@netnews.upenn.edu> jhaines@eniac.seas.upenn.edu (Jason  
Haines) writes:
> 
> 	I need to purchase a roll cage or at least a roll bar
> for my 'Datsun 510.'  I am therefore looking for used or 
> unused ones for sale.  I am also trying to find a place
> near Philadelphia, PA that might be able to build or sell/install
> a roll bar/cage for a good price.  I also need a multi-point
> harness (4, 5, or 6).  I am looking towards using a Cam-Lok type
> harness for the driver seat because the car will also be used on
> a daily basis (and it only has lap belts right now) while I
> will probably only get latch type belts for the passenger.
> Anyone have any they want to sell or know where to get them at a good
> price?
> 
> 

Regarding your harness, I use one on a daily basis in my '86 DECH Capri  
5.0. It's an RJS 5 point harness, that has the shoulder straps, as well as  
the submarine belt.  It hold me in there VERY WELL.  As for a cage, hmm...  
Try looking in CAR CRAFT magazine.  They usually have good recomdations  
for cages, and hi-po stuff.

You also mentioned that you had a '90 Mustang LX.  ANything done to it??   
Suspension, engine?

Vijay Doobay
York University
From: ron@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Ron Miller)
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 22:47:40 GMT
Subject: Re: temperature block heater heats block to
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

> 
> Two questions:
> 1) What does the "block heater" heat, engine block, anti-freeze, and so on.
>    I really want to know.

My jeep has a heater element that is inserted into the cooling jacket around
the cylinders. It's a small water-heater that fits into a "freeze plug" opening.

> 
> 2) To what temperature does the block heater heat?  A friend of mine said
>    "To a temperature such that the car can start".  Numbers please.

The heater produces heat. The engine block loses it due to radiation.
The actual temperature is not regulated but is simply the resultant of
adds minus losses of BTUs.

My jeep sits in a 30F garage overnight. I have a timer on the heater and
heat it for 1 hour before leaving in the morning. When I park it for the
night, I lay an old blanket over the engine to preserve the existing heat 
and plug in the plug (the cord doesn't reach out of the engine compartment)  
The temp guage is still on the low peg at startup. It takes about 1 mile less 
driving for the engine to come onto the thermostat. 

In my vehicle, the intake manifold is heated/cooled by coolant. I think that
some of the electrically heated water from my block heater rises to the
intake manifold and dramatically improves my carburetor performance for
startup. It makes more of a difference than one would predict from the 
water temp guage. 

If I lived it Calgary I would:

  a. Use Mobil One motor oil (less starting resistance)
  b. Use synthetic gear oils too.
  c. Use a block heater
  d. Use a battery heater (an electric blanket for your battery)
  e. Pay careful attention to performance of different brands of
     gasoline. (It can make a difference.)

Ron Miller
Ft. Collins, Colo.
From: jseo@themogul.EBay.Sun.COM (jseo)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Fuel gauge problem
Date: 12 Jan 1993 07:00:40 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.  Mt. View, Ca.
Distribution: usa
Reply-To: jseo@themogul.EBay.Sun.COM (jseo)
NNTP-Posting-Host: themogul.ebay.sun.com



Could anybody can give me suggestions about my fuel gauge problem?

I was driving steep mountain road for about 20 to 30 min at lower
gear (2nd and 3rd, sometimes 1st) and suddenly all the warning
lights came on. So I stopped car and found something (smells like wire)
smells burning badly. 
I check around but could not figure out what was wrong. 
Since I don't have much knowledge about car and no help in the middle of the
mountain, I just procceded stop and go driving to get out of that mountain.

Since then my fuel gauge indicator drops to empty status whenever the car
is waiting on red light - which means the gauge drops whenever the car stops.
When the car moves, the guage moves back to where it supposed to.

The car is 87 Mazda pick-up.


Thank you for your help!!


Philip


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: tony@compunet.uucp (tony)
Subject: Plymouth Acclaim `91, how to fix lighter?
Summary: How to fix lighter in `91 Plymouth Acclaim. ?
Keywords: Plymouth, Acclaim, 1991, fuse, lighter, how_to, fix
Organization: CompuNet Systems, Louisville KY (502-231-5908 & 5910)
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 23:34:38 GMT

	I have a 1991 Plymouth Acclaim and would like to know how to fix the
  cigarette lighter.  One day I had an appliance plugged in and when I unplugged  it I saw sparks and after that the lighter no longer worked.  Also, the
  dashboard lights and the turn signal light quit working at the same time.
  Is it likely this is easy to fix?  If it is just a matter of a single fuse
  which one would it be?  If it may be more than a single fuse, what else
  might it be and how much might a reputable repairman charge for fixing it?

	Thanks!			- Tony Safina

	compunet!tony@uunet!uu!net  _or_  ap199@cleveland.freenet.edu


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: neal@cmptrc.lonestar.org (Neal Howard)
Subject: Re: Carter Quadrajet?
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 00:13:59 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: CompuTrac Inc., Richardson TX

In article <1993Jan09.033725.5851@eng.umd.edu> floyd@eng.umd.edu (Greg Butler) writes:
>
> 
>Is that a typo?  Everyone knows Quadrajets are (were) made by
>Rochester, right?  That's what I thought until I picked one up
>the other day that had written on the side:
> 
>     "MFD BY
>      CARTER
>      CARBURETOR
>      FOR GMC"
> 
>I had never heard about such a thing before I saw this.  I have a
>book that covers Quadrajets pretty extensively, and it had no

Rochester contracted with Carter to produce some Q-jets back during the 
early '70's at a time when their production capacity wasn't quite sufficient
to meet the demand and this subcontracting was less costlier than tooling up   
for additional production capacity at that time.

>Now, one quick aside:  What is the white powdery stuff I'm always
>finding in my carbs?  How do I clean it out?  Carburetor cleaner
>doesn't do a thing to this stuff.  So far I've been scraping it
>out, but what about the passages I can't get to?  It doesn't look
>like oxidation from the carb, but I can't rule it out.
It's oxidation, probably mostly aluminum hydroxide and zinc oxide and other
metal oxides or hydroxides caused by water in prolonged contact with the
metal of the interior of the float bowl. The only way I've found to really get
it out is by sandblasting/glass beading (and make sure you get all the abrasives
out of all the passages before re-assembly).
> 
>Oh, BTW, Carb # 7044266.
> 
>Many thanks, Greg.
> 
> 


-- 
=============================================================================
Neal Howard   '91 XLH-1200      DoD #686      CompuTrac, Inc (Richardson, TX)
	      doh #0000001200
         "Let us learn to dream, gentlemen, and then perhaps
          we shall learn the truth." -- August Kekule' (1890)
=============================================================================