HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: rja@batcomfs.Eng.Sun.COM (Ninja Squirrel Master)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Natural Insect/Snail Control?
Date: 16 Apr 92 23:09:49 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Mt. View, Ca.
NNTP-Posting-Host: batcomfs

In article <1992Apr16.172815.19738@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com> sharen@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com (Sharen A. Rund) writes:
>In article <1992Apr14.174734.7135@decwrl.dec.com> shedevil@vix.com (Anne P. Mitchell) writes:
>>I'll just bet this is an FAQ, so please forgive me and point me in the
>>direction of an FAQ file if there is one!
>>
>>Something started eating our Pansies <big bites out of their cute lil
>>faces :-(>, and our landlord informed us that we have quite a bad
>>snail problem around here...pluse we've SEEN oodles of bugs.  He
>>suggested various insecticides and snail baits..which we duly bought
>>last night, but my animal-rights conscious daughter is really upset at
>>the thought of killing the snails (as, I must admit, am I), so we
>>decided to see if there wasn't some natural means of repelling
>>them..she thought she'd remembered reading that red pepper might work.
>>
>>This isn't a good place for companion planting (at least I don't think
>>it is) as it's a big flower box.

    Depending on what kind of weather you have, you can put some large
    Venus Flytrap plants out :-).  I just found a slug half caught by
    one of my plants.  You cannot plant them in a rich potting soil;
    they do well in 50/50 peat/sand.  You also can't fertilize them.
    Finally, they are bog plants and require LOTS of water.  If you
    can somehowe satisfy these requirements, plus you have reasonable
    humidity, decent quality water, and some sunlight, you can grow
    them outdoors.  I have mine growing outdoors in the SF Bay Area
    and they are doing great, except for the occasional aphid infestation.
--
    Robert Allen, rja@sun.com		DISCLAIMER: I said it, not my company.

    "Traditionalists often study what is taught, not what there is to create."
			     - Ed Parker, Grandmaster, American Kenpo.
From: mnb@voodoo.boeing.com (Mike Burr)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Looking for water garden mail order
Date: 8 Apr 92 19:24:41 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Boeing Graphics project, Bellevue WA


Hi folks,

I just aquired a man-made pond which is a little too sterile for my
taste.  I'd like to add some interesting water plants, fish, etc.
Anybody know of some good sources?

Thanks,

-- 
Michael Burr   mnb@voodoo.boeing.com  | Boeing Computer Services, Bellevue WA
From: monwel@cbnewsk.cb.att.com (douglas.w.monroe)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Street trees- How do they live??
Keywords: Covered roots
Date: 14 Apr 92 15:37:18 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T


Hi all!

I have a question about street trees. That is , how do they survive with 
little or no uncovered soil around them. Most trees have a little 4 square
foot patch in which they're planted, and that is the only area they can get
water from. Most of what Iv'e read regarding trees is that it is very important
not to cover roots since this is where a lot of "breathing" and moisture
absorption takes place. Am I missing something important here? Just curious.
-- 
******************************************************************************
                                                          Doug Monroe
                   				       dwm@pruxl.att.com
  						 -or-  monwel@cbnewsk.att.com
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: dadams@cherry.cray.com (David Adams)
Subject: soaker hoses -- etc.
Originator: dadams@cherry
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 6 Apr 92 14:21:36 CDT



I am about to dig two raised beds and need some advice on
irrigation.  Some people have talked about putting some
type of tube under the ground.  How does this work in 
a little more detail?  


Has anyone had any experience with soaker hoses?  I 
assume these are used above ground.  

-david adams      dadams@cray.com
_______________________________________________________________________
member--Minnesotans for Global Warming.
From: marton@spike.psc.scarolina.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: wish list
Date: 16 Apr 92 17:01:21 GMT
Reply-To: marton@spike.psc.scarolina.edu
Organization: Univ of S Carolina College of Sci and Math

Some plants from my wish list:
Plumbago coerulea
Plumbago pulchella, both Plumbaginaceae
Impatiens aurantiaca
Impatiens platyloba (both are from Celebes)
Cyrtandra pendula, Gesneriaceae from SE Asia
Daemonorops niger, D. draco, D. ruber or related Dragon's blood palm 
                                      (rattan type palms)
Arrabidaea chica=Bignonia chica=Doxantha chica, Bignoniaceae
Baphia nitida, Leguminosae (West African ornamental, and timber[camwood of commerce]
Baphia pubescens
Pterocarpus soyauxii, African padauk 

Please E-mail to:marton@spike.psc.scarolina.edu
                 Mihaly Czako
                 University of South Carolina
                 Dept. Biol. Sci.
                 Columbia, SC29208
                 803-777-6676
                 803-777-4002 (FAX)
From: ja@gnv.ifas.ufl.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Nematodes
Date: 10 Apr 92 17:20:17 GMT

In article <3091@babcock.cerc.wvu.wvnet.edu>, schmidt@cathedral.cerc.wvu.wvnet.edu (Evan Schmidt) writes:
> Hello,
> 	I was wondering if anybody can clear something up for me.  I have a friend who claims that nematodes prevent cutworms from invading your garden.  I have another friend that claims that nematodes attack tomatoe plants with ill effects for the tomatoes.  What is the low down on nematodes?  If they are good, where can I find some?  Thanks.
> 
> Evan Schmidt
> Beginning Gardener
> schmidt@cerc.wvu.wvnet.edu


Nematoda is a very diverse group of critters.  There are plant feeding
nematodes and insect feeding nematodes.  Most are reasonably specific in
respect to the hosts they can feed on.   There are even nematodes that
parasitize people, eg. elephantiasis.

I'm not an expert on nematodes but I do know that they're being used as
biocontrol agents for various insects.  And, at least, one species is being
sold commercially, _Steinerneima carpocapsi_, although I don't remember any of
the brand names.  I works very well on certain insects, is long lasting, and
has no adverse environmetal effects or human hazards. 

Plant feeding nematodes, eg. tomato root knot, can severely damage your plants.  
I'm not sure what's on the market for homeowner use, a widely used
agricultural fumagant for nemetodes (and other things) is methyl bromide.  This
is similar to CFCs (it's a halinated hydrcarbon) and can potentially damage the
ozone layer.  

That's bout all I know about nematodes.

John
From: wade@ucs.ubc.ca (Doug Wade)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Spruce aphids
Date: 14 Apr 92 01:18:16 GMT
Organization: University Computing Services, UBC, Canada

Just found out why my Colorado Blue Spruce and Alberta Spruce are turning
brown.... Spruce Tree Aphid!!
Yesterday I sprayed the trees with a soap solution recommended for killing
Aphids. Today I noticed the trees were covered in spiders and lady bugs 
which got me to wondering if the soap solution kills only aphids or am I
killing the good insects as well? 
___________________________________________________________________
Doug Wade (Internet: wade@ucs.ubc.ca  Bitnet: userice@ubcmtsg)                      University Computing Services    
     Room 100G                             
     University of British Columbia         
     Vancouver, B.C.                    
     Canada
     V6T 1Z2
___________________________________________________________________
Contributions to the "Send Doug to Europe Fund" graciously accepted.
From: brown@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Pat R. Brown)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: HELP mole/gopher/? in the garden
Date: 10 Apr 92 18:53:32 GMT
Organization: Hewlett Packard Company, Spokane, Wa.

Help!!!!!
I apoligise if this is an FAQ. Some sort of a burrowing rodent is reaping
what I have sown in the garden. The holes are about 3 inches in diameter.
Some are below groung with no raised soil, some are just skimming under
the surface. I have not seen the critter. I have seen the cats eating a 
critter that looks like a 1/3 scale pocket gopher. 

Please give suggestions on removing this thing before my carrots 
come up. I am willing to kill it/them. I am willing to use any 
methods other than poisons. This includes but is not limited to 
traps, fire arms, gas bombs, explosives etc. 

Any help is appreciated!!!

Pat Brown 
voice 509-921-3713
brown@hpspkla.spk.com
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Composting zoysia (ammended)
From: peterson@ucunix.san.uc.edu (John M. Peterson)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 92 13:57:35 GMT
Organization: University of Cincinnati


Zoysia is no more difficult to compost than any other grass.
The problem with mulching mower is that zoysia grows so densely
that it would quickly strangle .  With standard grasses the material
can get to the ground more easily and decompose because they grow
less densely.

Collect your grass clippings and use them as mulch on other parts
of your yard, but don't put it down as is.  Dry it first: spread it
out thinly in the sun on your driveway or patio for several hours,
then when dry, use as any mulch. 

NOT on the grass, but on your veg's flow's shrubs and trees etc.

 (If you don't dry it, it will
ferment, and generate too much heat for plants.)  After a year
or two as a mulch, move to the compost and it will decay much more
quickly.

+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
|  peterson@headcheese.daa.uc.edu      	 In real life: John M. Peterson  |
|                                                                        |
|  College of Design Architecture Art & Planning                         |
|  University of Cincinnati           45221-0016           513-556-1207  |
+------------------------------------------------------------------------+


From: piety@hplred.HP.COM (Bob Piety)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 22:12:18 GMT
Subject: Re: Request habanero chili plant
Organization: Hewlett Packard Labs, Palo Alto CA
Newsgroups: rec.gardens

You might try the Redwood City Seed Company, Redwood City, Ca. (Call
info-- area code 415).  They carry many exotic hot perrper varieties.

Bob          piety@hpl.hp.com      (415)857-4759
                                   Palo Alto, California


Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: esh2@po.CWRU.Edu (Evelyn S. Hlabse)
Subject: Spring Hill catalog
Reply-To: esh2@po.CWRU.Edu (Evelyn S. Hlabse)
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 92 01:42:05 GMT

I have ordered bulbs from Breck's and they have been beautiful.  I am
now getting mailings from Spring Hill.  After reading about the Michigan
Bulb company I am a little apprehensive about ordering from catalogs 
although as I said I've had no trouble with Breck's.  How about Spring
Hill?  Their prices look good.  Pictures are lovely but aren't they all.
I'm interested in buying bulbs for a summer garden.  Any information
would be helpful and appreciated.

Thanks in advance.  You can e-mail if you wish.
-- 

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: ceb@dbrus.Unify.Com (Caroline E. Bryan)
Subject: Re: planting barley
Organization: /usr/lib/news/organization
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 92 19:16:44 GMT

In article <1992Apr2.185622.8269@ns.network.com> jmiller@network.com writes:
>In article 92Apr2090135@seoul.mpr.ca, neilson@seoul.mpr.ca (Robert Neilson) writes:
>>PS: anyone ever planted wheat or barley ...
>
>I grew some barley last year....
>
>I'm not sure about wheat, but barley is a TOUGH grass.  It has parts of it
>that catch on clothing and you should wear gloves when harvesting.  Tilling
>in the remainder of the grass is also interesting.  My mantis couldn't hack
>it (it's a lot like straw)....

The commercial grain farmers whose fields I drove through when I moved from
VA to CA got rid of the leftover straw by controlled burning.  CA farmers
(I now live among barley and rice fields) used to do that, too, but the
burning has been restricted and will be banned altogether in about 3 years.
If it's exceedingly tough to plow in, you might think of asking your local
fire dept. if they'd allow you to burn it off (the ash is good for the soil),
or if you can rent a firefighter to burn it for you.


Carrie		ceb@dbrus.unify.com	x6244
+----------------------------------------------------------------------------+
|   "Age and treachery will always conquer youth and skill."  - Anon.        |
+----------------------------------------------------------------------------+
From: zara@rossroad.Corp.Sun.COM (Zara Haimo)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Orchid help
Date: 6 Apr 92 18:18:46 GMT
Reply-To: zara@rossroad.Corp.Sun.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
NNTP-Posting-Host: rossroad.corp.sun.com

This weekend one of my blooming phalanlopsis plants took an abrupt turn for the worse.  A full spike of open blooms suddenly withered and the two top leaves are turning yellow.  There is still one green leaf below, so I have some hope of saving this plant if I can find out what is wrong.  Does anyone have any ideas on the problem or a solution?
From: aphrk@Msu.oscs.montana.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: RE: illegal lobelia/"Crystal Palace"
Date: 8 Apr 92 19:32:15 GMT
Reply-To: aphrk@Msu.oscs.montana.edu
Organization: Montana State University

Mindy,  Yes I believe these are species of the genus Lobelia.

Robyn Klein
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Plant Id quiz of the day.
Date: 13 Apr 92 18:18:35 -0500
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

In article <1992Apr13.132647.26310@ssd.kodak.com>, mueller@ssd.kodak.com (Steven Mueller) writes:
> 	I was looking for something that would add a little winter
> 	interest to the garden and might even attract some birds.
> 	This plant has nickel to quarter size yellow berries (fruit?).
> 	It appears to be a vining type of plant.  It was growing amongst
> 	a group of spirea shrubs.  Of course there wasn't
> 	much left of it after a Rochester winter.
> 
> 	The seedlings should provide some more clues however.  The stems are
> 	covered with very fine thorns.  The most interesting feature is a
> 	single thorn at the base of each leaf just above the leaf stem.
> 	The leaves are sort of an arrowhead shape and of a medium to dark
> 	green color.

Sounds suspiciously like horsenettle, Solanum carolinense.  Major pain.
Bad weed.  S. carolinense is a perennial, with simple or branched stems,
alternate, wavy-edged or lobed leaves, with yellow prickles on the petioles
(leafstalk), mildrib and veins.  The berries are yellowish, juicy and usually
3/8-5/8" diameter and are borne in clusters.  By the time you found them,
they might have looked like last season's cherry tomatoes.  

If it is Solanum carolinense, do it in now, since the tap root can extend
down 5 ft.  That makes it LOTS of fun to kill....

Kay Klier    Stray plant taxonomist 
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: gere@umunhum.stanford.edu (Susan Gere)
Subject: Seed Savers Exchange (was: Wish List)
Organization: Stanford University, CSL
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 92 20:33:18 GMT

I thought I should give a plug for the Seed Saver's Exchange, address
Rural Route 3, Box 239, Decorah Iowa 52101. Annual membership is $25,
("optional reduced fees $20, $15") and you get a Yearbook containing
members addresses and varieties of heirloom plants offered. This year
they list 14,780 kinds of rare vegetables, grain, a few fruit and misc.

These folks also run a 140 acre Heritage Farm, and are doing a great
job of preserving a diverse gene pool - a critical endeavor which will 
someday be appreciated.

CA Du D (me/us) are listed this year for the wonderful dry-bean variety
_Tarahumara carpinteros_, a 90 day drought tolerant vigorous plant with
gorgeous black and white beans (like Holsteins). email if interested...
From: bky@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (william.a.stafford)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Source for Davidia (Dove Tree)
Date: 14 Apr 92 15:42:07 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T

In article <1992Apr13.184720.7044@sequent.com> sweiger@sequent.com (Mark Sweiger) writes:
>Does anyone know of a source for Davidia, also know as the Dove Tree?

Forest Farm                          Louisiana Nursery
990 Tetherow Rd                      Route &, Box 43
Williams, Oregon 97544-9599	     Opelousas, La 70570
Spring 92 catalog $3.00		     Catalog $5.00

-=[]=-=[]=--=[]=-=[]=--=[]=-=[]=--=[|]=-=[]=--=[]=-=[]=--=[]=-=[]=--=[]=-=[]=-
Wm. A. Stafford                     |
AT&T Bell Laboratories              |  "Who would have thought reading
Display Processing Systems Group    |   and writing could pay off"
homxc!was   201-386-7589            |       Homer Simpson
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Blight on my bearded iris
Date: 9 Apr 92 22:26:57 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

In article <1992Apr9.194731.10842@adobe.com>, asente@adobe.com (A Usenet Pal) writes:
> The flower gardens at my new house has been doing wonderfully...the previous
> owners had planted hundreds of bulbs everywhere.  However, there's a problem
> with the bearded iris.  They came up just fine, but a couple of days ago I
> noticed that the leaves had all started to develop ugly brown spots.  Many of
> the leaves are shriveling and dying.  This is in a bed that has dozens of
> other kinds of plants, none of which are displaying any sign of problems.

If the spots on the leaves are elliptical, with reddish borders and a
grey-black center, and occur primarily on the upper half of the leaf,
you've got fungal leaf spot.  Remove all dead or diseased leaves now, and
remove all dead leaves on the ground (which is where the fungus overwinters).
Either burn this material or sterilize it by soaking all of it in 10%
chlorox with a little dish detergent for about an hour, then drying the
leaves and composting.

If this doesn't match the symptoms you're seeing, please try to provide
a more complete description:  location, shape and color of spots,
whether the rhizomes appear healthy or mushy, whether any parts seem to
be "watersoaked" in appearance, etc.

Kay Klier  Biology Dept  UNI
From: mnaka@perfect-tommy.ics.uci.edu (Merri L Naka)
Subject: Re: Mosquito Plant
Summary: DEET?!!
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Reply-To: mnaka@ics.uci.edu (Merri L Naka)
Organization: Univ. of Calif., Irvine, Info. & Computer Sci. Dept.
Date: 16 Apr 92 16:13:33 GMT
Distribution: usa

Okay, am I the only clueless one?  What is DEET?

Merri

--
Merri Naka
mnaka@ics.uci.edu
University of California, Irvine
From: heim@vms.macc.wisc.edu (JOHN HEIM	)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: muddy path
Date: 14 Apr 92 18:57:45 GMT
Organization: University of Wisconsin Academic Computing Center

In article <0095915B.69871680@Msu.oscs.montana.edu>, oopcv@Msu.oscs.montana.edu writes...

>Requirements:
>It must be inexpensive ("free" would be excellent).
>It should hold up to traffic (I have two large dogs that really tear things up).
>It cannot be too smooth;  ice was a problem before it became mud. 
>I should mention the path is relatively narrow, maybe 2' wide between the fence
>and the lilacs.
> 
>Oh!  It slopes, too.

Wood chips.  Probably available from your city's maintenance 
department for free.

John G. Heim                                 Email:  heim@macc.wisc.edu
**************** Not responsible for lost or stolen articles. ****************
From: machanicm@gtephx.UUCP (Mindy Machanic)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: watering with drips
Summary: Drip Mist drippers
Keywords: drip irrigation
Date: 6 Apr 92 19:10:43 GMT
Organization: gte

In article <1992Apr3.192358.24980@ntg.com>, dplatt@ntg.com (Dave Platt) writes:
> 
> The biggest problem I've had with the drip-irrigation system, is
> drippers which clog up.  I usually use the "in-line" drippers connected
> to 1/4" spaghetti tubing.  I was quite happy with the original Raindrip
> drippers of this type... they were cylindrical in shape, about 3/4" long
> and about as wide, and seemed to be quite resistant to clogging.
> 
> Unfortunately, two or three years ago, Raindrip changed their in-line
> drippers to a new format.  The newer drippers are disc-shaped devices
> about 1/8" thick.  In my experience, they are _much_ less reliable than
> the older ones... I suffered from an "out-of-the-box mortality rate" of
> about 10%... they'd clog immediately when installed.  Another 20% or so
> would clog within a month of use.  Older-style in-line drippers on the
> same tubing circuit would keep working month after month.
> 
> 
> The older Raindrip drippers were advertised as having a long, large-bore
> turbulent labyrinth which was said to be resistant to clogging.  I
> suspect that the newer ones use a narrower, shorter labyrinth, and are
> more prone to clogging.
> 
(Somebody in a later response talked about in-line vs. tube-end drippers, but I had
already written down this item number to respond to.)
 
I use tube-end drippers. I think they are by Drip Mist (that's who the spaghettis are
by, in any case). They work very well; the only problems I've had with them are
clogging from being ground into the dirt and one or two tops blew off sending
fountains into the air. These can also be found as both adjustable/variable emitters
and as fixed-gallons-per-hour drippers. As long as you don't run more than about 
15 feet of spaghetti with no more than 6 or 8 emitters as one drip line, they
work great, using tees to put in the drippers. After that length, or with more than
6 or 8 drippers on one spaghetti line, you lose too much pressure and the last 
few drippers don't emit much water. Better to run another spaghetti line with a few
more drippers. 

When you run the soaker hose, you have to run more hoses to soak a wider area. With
the drippers, you just run the spaghettis to where you need them. I would think that
having to run more hoses to cover more area, and soaking where there might not be
any plants, would be more inefficient and would certainly make up for any loss
through evaporation?

Mindy
-- 
Mindy Machanic            Voice: (602) 582-7374        AG Communication Systems
Quality Engineering       Fax:   (602) 582-7111        P.O. Box 52179
UUCP: ....!{ncar!noao!asuvax | att}!gtephx!machanicm   Phoenix, AZ 85072-2179
Internet: gtephx!machanicm@asuvax.eas.asu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: ecologycntr@igc.org (Ecology Center Fund)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Gypsum, Sulfur, pH, and clay
Date: 7 Apr 92 15:49:00 GMT
Article-I.D.: igc.1453300022
Nf-ID: #R:inews.intel.com:10254:cdp:1453300022:000:193
Nf-From: cdp.UUCP!ecologycntr    Apr  7 08:49:00 1992


Has anyone here had any luck using sand to loosen clay soil?  

In my experience it tends to make the soil set and harden, not unlike
concrete.  Might be different with different clays?

chris