HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: svoboda@rtsg.mot.com (David Svoboda)
Subject: Re: Foam Cores
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1992 00:17:58 GMT

In article <ERICJ.92Aug19094355@lagos.cfsat.Honeywell.COM> ericj@hwcae.Honeywell.COM (Eric Jacobsen) writes:
|
|BTW, the leading edge is a pretty significant chunk of balsa block that had to
|be hand carved. Lotsa work but the results are great...

Investigate the purchase of a good razor plane.  It makes short work of
carving leading edges, as well as wing tips, cowls, etc.  I have one that
uses ordinary safety-razor blades.  I bought it so long ago, though, that
I can't remember what the brand was (if the company is still around).

	Dave Svoboda, Palatine, IL
From: g12770@garnet.berkeley.edu ()
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Request for 1/8 scale gas on-road info
Date: 14 Aug 1992 13:08:40 GMT
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: garnet.berkeley.edu
Originator: g12770@garnet.berkeley.edu

I would like to hear from anyone racing 1/8 scale gas cars, especially
on-road. I recently attended the New England Regional Championship, was
impressed with what I saw, and am eager to get involved. I've talked 
with some of the racers and gotten information (some of it
conflicting), but would appreciate hearing more from the net. 

What car wold you recommend for a beginner
going into 2wd sportsman class (e.g. RC500, BMT 892, etc.). Some
(many) recommended the RC500, even though it was an older design,
because of its robustness, reasonably priced parts, etc. While others said
stay away from it. They seem to be fairly plentiful on the used market,
I've already had two offers. What does it take to make them competitive? The BMT
looks very good, but more expensive (I'd have to buy one new),
somewhat less robust, but the drivers I've talked to have good things to say
about them, especially the ease of making suspension adjustments. 

Tips on making a starter box. Any information, experiences, advice would
be *much* appreciated. 

Thanks in advance.

Send replies to carljs@ids.net (this is just a guest account).

Carl Jones
Systems Librarian 
Salve Regina University Library
Newport, RI 02840 
net: carljs@ids.net
voice: (401) 847-6650 x2384
From: lewis@oasys.dt.navy.mil (William Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Some Glider Questions...
Date: 20 Aug 92 18:24:43 GMT
Reply-To: lewis@oasys.dt.navy.mil (William Lewis)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.models.rc, frei@astro.Princeton.EDU (Zsolt Frei) writes:
>Hi Fellow Netters!
>
>I just decided to get into this hobby starting with some simple gliders.
>(I built some free flight balsa models in the past...) I completely agree
>that one should start with a polyhedral glider, it seems to be the most
>fun for the money. I also agree that one should build a kit rather than
>spending to much money on an ARF plane or too much time on building
>something from scratch.
>

I disagree with this statement.  I am building my first RC airplane
GP PT-20, and while it is taking alot less time than scratch building
a plane, it is taking up alot of time. Maybee I'm being too detail conscience
but that's what it's all about,right! Also when you consider the price
of all the additional supplies, monokote, glues, epoxy's, tools, wheels,
control rods, gas tank, etc.... the price of an ARF starts to look pretty
good!  Granted the glider kits are alot simpler to build than your standard
trainer's, but I've never been all that enthusiastic about them, and
that's just my POV.  I have however, ENJOYED building my plane, but
I wouldn't classify it as having been FUN. One does get a great sense
of accomplishment from building an RC airplane, I hope that I feel the
same way when I fly it for the first time. (and hope it don't crash)
Please excuse this blantent commentary, and no flames intended.
Just my $2.00 worth (inflation of the hot air variety).
byefornow d:^)

Bill
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: turner@ssdt-tempe.sps.mot.com (Robert Turner)
Subject: Re: Quickie 500 Needs to be REFORMED!!
Originator: root@mogate.sps.mot.com
Organization: Semiconductor Systems Design Technology, Motorola, Tempe AZ
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 21:56:33 GMT

In article <BszF3G.A5o@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu> ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib) writes:
>even if one goes for stronger and/or bigger airplanes someone will still 
>need to spend $350+ just for the motor if one wants to remain competitive.
>It is no longer a beginners event at that point.
>

If you want to have "club racing" where beginners can compete, look no further
that horse racing.  In horse racing they use claiming races.  In a $500 claiming
race the winning horse can be purchased for a MINIMUM of $500.  If more than one
buyer wants the horse, it is auctioned with a minimum bid of $500.

Define a race where the winning plane and motor are sold for $xxx; sprinkle in
a few airframe rules, ala Quickie 500, and you will prevent people from spending
$1500 to win a $10.00 trophy.

This has been proposed many times in the past and has been ignored.  But face it
people, somebody with a lot of money and a desire to be in the spotlight can
be real difficult to compete with.  

Robert


-- 
Robert Turner (602) 897-5441 Semiconductor Systems Design Technology, Motorola
turner@ssdt-tempe.sps.mot.com   OR   ...!uunet!dover!turner
GOD is real, unless declared integer. --J. Allan Toogood
From: danb@pogo.wv.tek.com (Daniel J Balza)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Info wanted on EXTRA 300
Date: 19 Aug 92 20:46:46 GMT
Article-I.D.: shaman.1614
Distribution: usa
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Wilsonville, OR.


I am looking for information from someone who has built/flown an EXTRA 300.
I have built a glider and just started powered flight with a SKYWARD 40.
My question is: Is an EXTRA 300 a good next step for someone who has graduated
from a trainer?  How hard is it to build?

Thanks in advance,

Dan
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib)
Subject: Re: Some Glider Questions...
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1992 15:24:06 GMT

In article <1992Aug20.222823.1121@col.hp.com> gregt@col.hp.com (Greg Tarcza) writes:

>Radio: 
>>  If somebody *WANTS* to stay with polyhedral gliders do you
>>  still suggest to buy a 4 channel system, or a simple 2 channel AM
>>  system is enough? 

I've heard that the split sticks make for good glider piloting 
(you aren't creating "stick thermals"). Still I bet it takes
getting used to, I'll bet...


>Another reason for getting the four channel radio is for spoilers, which 
>I recommend, or flaps.  ...And then there is the question of resale 
>value when you want to upgrade or bail out.

Besides 4 channel sets come with nicads.



>Covering: 
>>  What can I use to cover them? 
>I use Monokote, but I am sure that most of the other similar coverings
>will work fine. 

>>  Can I use Japanese paper with tightening lacquer?

>Probably, but how easy is it to repair when it gets punctured or torn?

Not too difficult to repair (use Ambroid and saran wrap..) but it 
WILL be easier to puncture and tear.

-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Iskandar Taib                          | The only thing worse than Peach ala
Internet: NTAIB@SILVER.UCS.INDIANA.EDU |    Frog is Frog ala Peach
Bitnet:   NTAIB@IUBACS                 !
From: bloom@inland.com
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: R/C Flying: Part 1 of 2/rec.models.rc FAQ
Date: 21 Aug 92 11:08:02 CST
Followup-To: rec.models.rc
Organization: Inland Steel Company; East Chicago, IN

In article <20659@optima.cs.arizona.edu>, sham@cs.arizona.edu writes:
> Archive-name: RC-flying-FAQ/part1
> Last-modified: Jul. 20 1992
> 
> Greetings! This is the "Radio Control (R/C) Flying" help file, containing
> information of general interest to beginners. This file is posted regularly
> (every 28 days). I have tried to address all questions a beginner may have; if
> your question isn't here, please send it to me so I can include for the next
> person needing help.
> 
> Remember, no amount of FAQ reading can substitute for an instructor!
> 
> Shamim Mohamed
> shamim@cs.arizona.edu
> {uunet,cmcl2,noao..}!arizona!shamim
> 
> ============================== Cut Here ======================================
> 
>>Should I start with plans and build my own plane from scratch, buy a kit
>>plane with wood and plans included, or go with one of those everything
>>included ready to fly planes.


> 
> There are very few good trainers that are ready to fly (or almost ready
> to fly, aka ARF). ARF planes are usually heavy and hard to repair. The
> new generation of ARF kits is all wood but more expensive. If you build
> your own plane you get valuable experience and you'll also be able to do
> the inevitable repairs with ease. The better kits have parts that are
> machine cut, the somewhat cheaper ones are die-cut. You'll probably have
> to so a little more work with a die-cut kit, mostly in separating parts
> and sanding them.
> 

This just isn't true.  I am a flight instructor for a large (150 member) 
R/C club.  There are plenty of excellent ARF Trainers available that have 
very light wing loading and will land at a crawl without fear of a stall.
Hobbico makes several in both flat bottom and semi-symmetrical wing 
versions.  Skyward makes a nice ARF trainer in both a flat wing and semi-
symmetrical.  Thundertiger makes several nice ARF trainers.  Royal makes 
'em also.  The big advantage to an ARF is that you have less emotional 
investment if you crash than a model that you have spent 100 hours putting 
together.  In addition, an ARF is more likely to fly well because it is 
jig built.  A first attempt at building a kit will not always be a good 
flying airplane, you may not have the skills or knowledge yet to build 
it well enough or straight enough without wing warps etc.  I have never 
seen an ARF trainer that couldn't be flown well.  I have flown or tried to 
fly some pretty awful first attempts at a Goldberg Eagle.  One fellow 
at our field has an Eagle that flies so poorly that he took it back to 
Carl Goldberg for advice.  Even they couldn't figure out what he had 
done wrong.  In Goldberg's defense, this fellow is an awful builder.
From: bingham@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (David Bingham)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: JETEX engines
Date: 13 Aug 92 16:20:07 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Rosa, CA


  I got quite a few responses so I'll go ahead and post the Jetex
engine newsletter address here as well as replying individually.

	The address for the Jetex newsletter 'Pssst Off' is:

	Roger Walthen Sr.
	3242 No. DeQuincy Street
	Indianapolis, IN  46218

The subscription is $9.00 for one year. Six issues. Make the check
out to Roger Walthen Sr.


        Here's the address for Peck. It's $3 for a catalog and
they're a little backed up. Running about a month. Orders are 
much quicker.

        Peck Polymers
        P.O. Box 710399-MB
        Santee, CA  92072-0399

        (619) 448-1818 for phone orders

Enjoy.

David Bingham
bingham@sr.hp.com
From: neal@lrc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Wanted:  Old ACE Equipment
Date: 14 Aug 92 20:54:39 GMT
Organization: Lenoir-Rhyne College, Hickory, NC

I am looking for some old Ace radio equipment.

Specifically, any Digital Commander receivers, in any condition,
and perhaps a SilverSeven transmitter (metal gimbals).

replies to:

*****************************************************************************
Neal E. George	   |
Rt. 3, Box 674	   | "...And Brother Michael took up the Holy Hand Grenade 
Newton, NC  28658  |  of Antioch, and lifting it on high did pray:  'Oh Lord, 
(704) 327-0045     | guide this Thy Holy Hand Grenade into the camp of mine  
AMA  119741	   | enemy, who, being nauty in Thy sight, shall snuff it.
FCC  KD4QEL  	   | Amen.' "
neal@lrc.edu 	   |			     -Monty Python and the Holy Grail	
*****************************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: wewallac@watsol.uwaterloo.ca (Bill Wallace)
Subject: Boats and float planes
Organization: University of Waterloo, Waterloo, Ontario
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 19:34:56 GMT

How do people usually recove their float planes.  Obviously if the engine
is still running one just taxis it in, but otherwise?  Does anyone have
a nice design of an rc retreiver boat?  If one had a barge type boat that had a
rod crosswise in the front to pust the float plane that might work?

What happens to the engine when one flips the plane on landing?  Does the
temperature difference destroy the engine?  Fairly obviously one would need
a larger boat to retreive it in that case, but if someone could come up with
a design to retreive flipped planes that would be great.

Another question: does anyone have a (working) model aircraft carrier, and how
does it work for landing jet models on?

Finally, on the subject of dual conversion am receivers, the cox cobra
is advertized as being dual conversion.  Just my $0.03 (inflation.)

Bill Wallace


Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: frei@astro.Princeton.EDU (Zsolt Frei)
Subject: Some Glider Questions...
Originator: news@nimaster
Organization: Princeton University
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 16:45:06 GMT


Hi Fellow Netters!

I just decided to get into this hobby starting with some simple gliders.
(I built some free flight balsa models in the past...) I completely agree 
that one should start with a polyhedral glider, it seems to be the most 
fun for the money. I also agree that one should build a kit rather than 
spending to much money on an ARF plane or too much time on building 
something from scratch.

I decided to have as much information as I can before ordering anything.
I read the FAQ file, bought an RC Modeler magazine, and called some 18
companies for brochures (model kit and radio manufacturers to have 
detailed technical info on these products; and mail order companies 
to find out the best prices). 

After absorbing all the above information I still have some questions:

- Radio: If somebody *WANTS* to stay with polyhedral gliders do you
  still suggest to buy a 4 channel system, or a simple 2 channel AM
  system is enough? 
  How long will normal AA batteries last as transmitter and receiver 
  batteries in the cheap 2 channel AM systems?

- Kit: Can I use STANDARD SERVO-s in the 2 meter planes???  
  Wing loading is a key factor? Lower wing loading stays up longer?
  Are these planes good for both thermal and slope soaring?

- Hi-Start: There is very little talk about hi-starts in the FAQ file.
  Any instructions on how to use them? Which one to buy? 300 feet or
  800 feet versions? Can I operate it alone?

- Covering: Kits listed in the FAQ file do not contain any covering.
  What can I use to cover them? Monokote (and alike) is/are the only
  solution? Can I use Japanese paper with tightening lacquer?
  How many rolls of Monokote are required for the 2 meter sailplanes?
  Do I need the heat gun, or the sealing iron is enough?
  How can I produce multi-color coverings frequently pictured in sales 
  catalogs? (Say half of the wing is blue, other half is white, not just 
  a simple trim sheet. See the Spirit in the Tower Hobbies catalog, page 16!) 

- Misc: Besides kit, radio, hi-start, covering, iron, epoxy; what else
  do I need to get started? FAQ mentions '$60 for a 2 meter glider and
  other supplies'. What are those other supplies? 

Thanks in advance: Zsolt Frei       frei@astro.princeton.edu
From: guyer@aludra.usc.edu (David Guyer)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: SAE Contest in MODEL AVIATION
Date: 12 Aug 92 17:51:00 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA
NNTP-Posting-Host: aludra.usc.edu

In May, a contest was held in Daytona Beach Florida pitting many
college teams to see who could design and build an airplane that
would lift the most cargo weight.  We were interviewed by a reporter 
from Model Aviation and I was wondering if anyone had seen an article
about that competition and if so, which edition it was in, I would like
to get a copy of that article for my team.  Thanks for any help I can
get.

		David Guyer   guyer@spock.usc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: paulm@paulsun.UUCP (Paul Moreau)
Subject: Re: Quickie 500 Needs to be REFORMED!!
Organization: Storage Concepts, Inc.
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 14:15:55 GMT


  I'm all for banning the Nelson's from the Quickie 500.   The Idea of
  the quickie class racing was to create a Formula 1 type race but at an
  entry level.    The quickies have now left the 'not so financially' well
  off beginners in the dust because of the performance gap between Nelsons
  and more affordable engines.   I think Nelsons should be in the advanced
  Formula 1 class only.   This would put the Quickie 500 back to what it
  was intended to be, a Pylon race class for the entry level where the
  beginer can compete.

  Well, that's my $.02

-- 
          _____________________________________________________________
          -                *                      _______   _~;       -
          -            Paul Moreau               |       =_= /        -
          -    Sr. Diagnostics Software Eng.     \   USA    /         -
          -        Anaheim, California      --->  *-_  ___ /          -
          -     UUCP: ..!ccicpg!dorjam!paulm         \/   \\          -
          _____________________________________________________________

Xref: sparky rec.models.rc:3339 news.answers:2536
From: ericj@hwcae.Honeywell.COM (Eric Jacobsen)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Foam Cores
Date: 19 Aug 92 15:43:55 GMT
Organization: Honeywell, Air Transport Division; Phoenix, AZ

The ACE T34 kit (which I have, and is my only foam core experience), has a foam
core wing with 1/16 balsa over it. I can personally and thankfully attest to the
fact that it is stronger than h*ll. Mine is covered with MonoKote, which I would
do again, but next time after a lot more thorough sanding.

BTW, the leading edge is a pretty significant chunk of balsa block that had to
be hand carved. Lotsa work but the results are great...

--
*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*
* Eric Jacobsen        Honeywell Inc.                           *
|     1-602-436-3941   Commercial Flight Systems, Air Transport |
* HVN       436-3941   US Mail: P.O. Box 21111, MS 2Q34C1       *
| FAX 1-602-436-1310   Phoenix AZ 85036-1111                    |
* INet: ericj@hwcae.az.honeywell.com                            *
| UUCP: uunet!hwcae.az.honeywell.com!ericj@uunet.uu.net         |
* The opinions expressed are my own and therefore better        *
| thought out than my employer's.                               |
*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: mmarks@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Matthew D Marks)
Subject: Re: Hamliton Hobbies Phone number
Keywords: Phone number
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 14:18:59 GMT

Per last months posting, Hamilton Hobbies has gone out of business.
-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Matthew D. Marks
Graduate Research Associate
Mechanical Engineering Department
From: bloom@inland.com
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Under powered plane--need help!
Date: 17 Aug 92 08:03:37 CST
Organization: Inland Steel Company; East Chicago, IN

In article <92220.192802U40348@uicvm.uic.edu>, Jay Lorenzana <U40348@uicvm.uic.edu> writes:
> Dear netters,
> 
> I built a Sig Cougar a bit on the heavy side.  I coated
> the fuselage with epoxy.
> 
> I have an OS FP .40 engine and the plane is underpowered.
> I was told that it was good underpowered because
> this was my first low wing.  I learned on it fine but
> I want a bigger engine, I am actually scared to fly with
> that engine because it is very underpowered--stalls easily.
> I believe the largest engine I can install is a .45 (or was
> it .50???).  How much more power will I get from a .40 to a .45/.50
> (2 cyl)?      I fear it will not be enough.  Can I put a .60 in there
> without any complications?  I currently have a heavy nose
> spinner & 7oz of extra weight in the cowling because the plane is
> tail heavy.
> 
> I don't want to spend a lot of money on the engine but if a
> cheap .60 won't fit would an expensive .45 do justice?

The Sig Kougar will work quite well with either a strong .40 or .45" 
ball bearing motor.  The FP you are using has the power of a good .25 
motor.  A .60 is too much motor for this plane.  I would use either 
an Enya .45 CXTV ($118 mail order) or a Supertigre .45 ABC ($114), 
both these motors are plenty strong and very reliable.
From: Douglas.R.Beekman@dartmouth.edu (Douglas R. Beekman)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: R/C helicopters
Date: 16 Aug 92 23:23:16 GMT
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH

I would like to hear from somebody who knows about R/C helicopters.
I've been flying R/C airplanes for a while and would like to give
helicopters a try. I would like to know what model would be good for a
beginner and whether or not a used heli is a viable option. I've been
reading up on the subject, but there is nothing like a warm body with
some experience to get advise from. I havn't been able to do this
because I'm from Iowa and helis are not too popular here. Any advise
would be greatly appreciated.

Doug
From: ericw@hobbes.amd.com (Eric Wedaa)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: "Celerity" F-14 Tomkitty slope plane.  Has anyone built it?
Date: 14 Aug 92 00:14:06 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc.


Has anyone out there in "netland" built a "Celerity" F-14 Tomkitty 
slope plane.  It looks pretty slick, but I'd rather not spend the
bucks if it's a dog.

>>>>>Ericw

--
Eric Wedaa  -  eric.wedaa@amd.com | Two more kinds of lies...
{ames apple uunet}!amd!ericw      |     Release Dates, and Benchmarks
Advanced Micro Devices, M/S 167 PO Box 3453 Sunnyvale, CA 94088-3453
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: mccrorey@convex.com (Martin McCrorey)
Subject: Tuned Pipe Questions
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 19:52:06 GMT
Organization: Engineering, CONVEX Computer Corp., Richardson, Tx., USA
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by a user at CONVEX Computer
              Corp. The opinions expressed are those of the user and
              not necessarily those of CONVEX.

I am about to use a tuned pipe for the first time.  This will be a
Super Hots with a rear exhaust OS 46 ABC.  Before I start on the
fuselage, I would like to establish the header length as closely as
possible.  I have built a bench for running in and tuning the engine,
but I have never bench run an engine or set up a tuned pipe before, so
I would like any advice I can get.  In particular, I have the following
questions:

    1. Should it be broken in without the pipe, and if so, with what?
       (There is no muffler with this engine, so I can't use that,
       and I am going to run it in my garage, so I won't be running
       it with an open header, either).

    2. How do I break in the engine on the bench?  I have been advised
       not to "four stroke" an ABC, apparently because they run too
       tight when that cool, so I am planning to vary the speed a lot
       while keeping it a just lean enough to hit every time.  

    3. What is a good header length to start with?  I am more 
       interested in a strong climb than top speed.  I looked at
       another similar pipe, and the manufacturer recommended
       9.25" from glow plug to the fattest part of the pipe.

    4. I plan to start with a 10x6 prop, although I will probably try
       a variety of slightly heftier props when the plane is flying and
       the engine is run in.  Is this a good starting point for this
       engine?  I am also curious to know what kind of RPM to expect
       from this engine with varous props (and how it will compare
       with the side exhaust 46 with muffler).

    5. Is a 10% nitro, castor/synthetic mix fuel OK for break-in?

    6. Can a put a tank pressure fitting on the side of the pipe
       and have it work OK, or do I really need a pump?

Thanks,
Martin
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc