HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: TLH@ECLX.PSU.EDU (Thomas L Hoffmann)
Subject: Re: Jeep stuck, frozen puddle, how to free up?
Organization: Penn State Engineering Computer Lab
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 93 14:28:13 GMT
X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.24

In <1993Jan27.053338.15108@spdc.ti.com> serafin@epcot.spdc.ti.com writes:

> In article <1993Jan26.192303.2396@macc.wisc.edu> pburke@vms.macc.wisc.edu (Peter Burke, MIC, 608-263-7744) writes:
> >My friend got himself stuck in a pretty deep puddle two days ago. In the 
> >meantime the puddle has turned to solid ice.  Teh front of the vehicle 
> >is about 15" under water/ice, the rear - well - his 31" tires barely 
> >stick out of the ice.  The ice is only 1/2" thick, but still enough to 
> >keep the thing in there.  Yesterday we pulled only very lightly and tore 
> >his bumper off - oops.  Now: what is a smarter approach?  We are 
> >thinking of first using a sledgehammer to crush the ice, then pull with 
> >two trucks.  Is there a smarter approach?  There is no way to get a 
> >tow-truck near this, by the way.  almost got my Toyota stuck just going 
> >there....


There are a few things I've used in the past, with varying degrees of
success.

1) Jack up the vehicle and place material under the wheels, or push
   the vehicle off the jacks sideways/forward/backward. The idea here
   is to reposition the vehicle to free whatever portion of the frame
   is caught.

2) Play around with the brakes while attempting to drive out. If the
   emergency brakes can be used to isolate the spinning wheel, it
   will transfer power the to wheel with hopefully some traction.
   I've done this by using a rope attached to the emergency cable
   of one of the rear wheels and pulling on it while driving out.

3) If your going to pull on the vehicle, attach the a suspension
   member or the frame. One possibility here, assuming there are
   trees around, is to use a long cable between the vehicle and
   a tree. Then attach a garden variety come-along to another
   tree and the middle of the long cable, the come-along should
   be pulling perpendicular to the long cable. This will produce
   a large mechanical advantage in the pulling force. You may
   have to reset this a couple of times since you won't move
   the vehicle much each time. I've had good success with this
   appraoch with just two or three people instead of the comealong.
   They can rock the vehicle in time with a drivers application
   of power.

4) Oh yah, that prings up the single most overlooked procedure of
   all, mostly overlooked by non 4X4ers. If you have any traction
   at all, rock the vehicle by shifting between 1st and reverse.
   This either gets you out, or totaly stuck. My old scout II
   was good with this since reverse and 1st were in line with
   each other.

One side note, I've been wondering if a fully independent ABS
system would be usefull in such situations. If you hit your brake,
the system should apply the brakes on the spinning wheels only and
transfer some power to the wheels with traction.


Jeff
jag@kirkof.psu.edu


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mike%jim.uucp@wupost.wustl.edu (Mike S.)
Subject: Filler for small windshield chips
Organization: BITS, St. Louis, MO
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 20:52:54 GMT
Summary: Need info on filler for small windshield chips
Keywords: windshield chip filler

Got several small windshield chips just large enough to be
annoying.  They penetrate probably 1/5 of the glass thickness,
and are around 1/16" at the most.

Has anyone had any luck filling small chips with something that
has refractive qualities close enough to glass so as to make the
chips nearly invisible?

Mike
-- 
mike%jim.uucp@wupost.wustl.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: lusky@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Jonathan R. Lusky)
Subject: Re: Natural Gas for Auto fuel.
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin, Austin TX
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 07:48:54 GMT

In article <1993Jan21.083558.19077@news.unomaha.edu> mgolden@cwis.unomaha.edu (Brian Golden) writes:
>johns@tfs.com  writes:
>> One thing I haven't heard about using Natural Gas is anything negative.
>Two words:  Accident, boom!
>Mike Golden - mgolden@cwis.unomaha.edu

One word: WRONG!  Natural gas is gnenerally much safer than gasoline
if the systems are properly installed.  The primary drawbacks are cost
of conversion, lack of refueling stations, and lack of range.


-- 
--=< Jonathan Lusky ----- lusky@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu >=-- 
    \    IRC-Op at tramp.cc.utexas.edu (Rodder)   /
     \    89 Jeep Wrangler - 258/for sale!       / 
      \        79 Rx-7 - 12A/Holley 4bbl        / 
       \________67 Camaro RS - 350/4spd________/
From: MIZUTANT@wharton.upenn.edu (Taka Mizutani)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Brake pads
Date: 27 Jan 93 19:43:04 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Organization: University of Pennsylvania

Hi,
I was wondering if anyone out there could answer a question for me....

What are the advantages/disadvantages of using
"organic"/semi-metallic/metallic brake pads?

This would be for street use only. I also heard that metallic brake pads
can warp rotors. Is this true?

As a side note, do metallic brake pads produce less brake dust?

Thanks in advance,
Taka Mizutani
MIZUTANT@wharton.upenn.edu
From: wsun@jeeves.ucsd.edu (Fiberman)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: power steering
Date: 21 Jan 93 02:14:07 GMT
Organization: University of California, San Diego

I have an 84 Toyota Celica GT.  The power steering recently went
off due to the breaking of the belt driving the pump.  Is it
damaging to the car to drive without power steering?

-fm
From: slgyp@cc.usu.edu (Doran L. Barton)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: techy questions about Subaru DL
Date: 25 Jan 93 00:15:11 MDT
Organization: Utah State Univ. - Elec/Comp Engineering

I have a 1984 Subaru DL 1600, 2 door. I have a couple of questions directed to
those who may have done work on Subarus.

#1- Back up lights aren't working. Where is the switch?

#2- On the control panel, several of the warning lamps glow very dimly during
    normal operation. Namely, CHARGE, BRAKE FLUID, BRAKE LAMP, and PARK BRAKE.
    The rest do not. They do not glow at a constant level. Sometimes, when 
    revving the engine, they will turn off for a brief moment. Sometimes, 
    when driving or listenning to the stereo at high volumes, they will 
    pulse. Alternator and battery check out okay.

#3- How hard is it to install speakers in the doors of this car?

TIA for any help,

Doran

Doran L. Barton 		``There was only one thing I could do: 
slgyp@cc.usu.edu		  Ding a ding dang my dang along ling long.''
Undergraduate - Computer Engineering                 -- Ministry
From: dick@hpscit.sc.hp.com (Dick Lucas)
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 21:52:20 GMT
Subject: Re: Radial tires on old car
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Clara, CA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

When radials first came out, they were noted for having a different ride
quality from bias tires.  I believe that they transmitted more of the 
road surface roughness and gave a harsher ride.  There were even some car
makers that advertised that they had a "Radial Tuned Suspension."

The differences in suspension were most likely in the shock absorbers.  
I'd just go ahead and put on radials.  You'll like the difference.

Dick Lucas
From: rrosen@pyrnova.mis.pyramid.com (Randy Rosenberg)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: TH350 vs. TH400
Date: 26 Jan 93 23:25:34 GMT
Reply-To: rrosen@pyrnova.mis.pyramid.com (Randy Rosenberg)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Pyramid Technologies, Mt. View, California.

In article <1993Jan26.205334.3266@news.csuohio.edu>,
bob@levin3.csuohio.edu (Robert Martel) writes:
|> Steven J Orlin (sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu) wrote:
|> : >  
|> : >  In article <1993Jan25.121339.15258@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu>
dwsmall@miavx1.acs.mu
|> : >  ohio.edu (Derek 'Enzo' Small) writes:
|> : >  >
|> : >  >Someone asked about a TH700 a while back and no one else offerd
anything
|> : >  >yet so if you're reading... The TH700 is basically an electronically
|> : >  >controled version of the TH250 but for front wheel drive vehicles.
|> : >  >
|> : >  
|> : >  Gee. you sound so convincing I'm almost afraid to say this: When
did the
|> : >  Corvette become a front wheel drive vehicle?
|> : >  
|> : >  Answers??????
|> : >  -- 
|> : >  Orlin.2@osu.edu
|> 
|>   Wasn't that right before the V8 F-cars went FWD - you know, when
|> they got the THM 700R4, too?  :^)

You're right!! ;-)

My Blazer has FWD with a TH700R4.

        -m-------  Randy Rosenberg                     rrosen@pyramid.com
      ---mmm-----  Pyramid Technology Corporation      Voice:  408/428-8736
    -----mmmmm---  3860 North First Street  SJ3-1-79   FAX:    408/428-7440
  -------mmmmmmm-  San Jose, CA  95134-1702            AMA# 643875
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: norcott_bill@tandem.com (Bill Norcott)
Subject: Re: Ford Tempo Hesitates/Stalls
Reply-To: norcott_bill@tandem.com (Bill Norcott)
Organization: Tandem Computers, Inc.
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 03:09:56 GMT

In article <2024@heurikon.heurikon.com>, jeffd@ex.heurikon.com (Jeff Durst) writes:
|> 
|> 	I bought a 1991 Ford Tempo GL brand new and back in November
|> 	it started to intermittantly hesistate when warm at stop lights 
|> 	or stops signs.  It is always on acceleration that this occurs.
|> 	It has also stalled three times since December 3.  
|> 
|> 	I have had it into the Dealer twice now for this problem, the first
|> 	time they clain to have found a vaccuum leak at the fuel pressure
|> 	regulator and they also cleaned some emissions stuff, the second time
|> 	they said they found the base idle speed was low, so they adjusted it.
|> 	
|> 	I asked them if they really feel they solved the problem, he said 
|> 	no.  I asked where do we go from here, he said basiclif the problem
|> 	happens more frequently so that they can recreate it they will then
|> 	be able to do more for me.  Until that time I'm SOL.
|> 

You should not have to recreate it for them, if it happened recently
the trouble code for the problem is stored in the cars computer.
Ask them to run the engine diagnostic and tell you what codes the
computer spit out.  I am surprised they did not do this immediately.
It could well be that the idle speed control system is screwing up,
this happened on my '87 before.  Make sure they take a specific action
and record the results, such as "Engine computer diagnostic run,
revealed codes: XXX".  Don't let them refuse to take the car into the
shop and run the diagnostics.  Also, don't let them get by with just
adjusting crap, tell them to start swapping out components until they
find the problem if that's what it takes them.

Don't take this lying down and also don't blame the car, blame the
dealer. It is under warrantee and it is their job to fix it even if they
have to replace the entire engine CPU and all the sensors to do it.
I fixed mine myself the car now has 85,000 and starts and runs 
perfectly & now I'm getting 27 MPG as well.

Even if the basic warrantee runs out all engine control systems are
covered by the federally mandated pollution control warrantee on
all cars.

-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------|
Bill Norcott			GUARDIAN POSIX project
Tandem Computers, Inc.		
10600 N. Tantau Avenue		PHONE:  (408) 285-3253
Cupertino, CA   95014		EMAIL: norcott_bill@tandem.com
From: steveh@amadeus.wr.tek.com (Steve Huss)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: power steering
Date: 22 Jan 93 00:15:31 GMT
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Beaverton,  OR.

In article <43804@sdcc12.ucsd.edu> wsun@jeeves.ucsd.edu (Fiberman) writes:
>damaging to the car to drive without power steering?

I don't know but I have a related question:

How often should one change the power steering fluid?
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: lusky@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Jonathan R. Lusky)
Subject: Re: Propane and Timed Electronic Injection
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin, Austin TX
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 04:18:38 GMT

In article <C1H1vp.998@avalon.nwc.navy.mil> nasa@suns.chinalake.navy.mil (Chris Adam Thomas) writes:
>
>Propane has some advantages and some disadvantages as fuel for a 
>high performance engine.  Timed electronic port injection of the
>liquid would eliminate one of the disadvantages.  I've never heard
>of injectors that would operate at the pressures necessary (and at
>the voltages and currents available from the ECM) for port injection
>of LP.  Has anyone else?

Which disadvantage would it eliminate?

My knowledge is in CNG, not LP gas...  but here are some ideas.
1st) What is the tank pressure with LPG?  Do you really want to run that
much pressure to the injectors?  To do FI with CNG, we first run thru a
regulator to drop the pressure to 75-125psi, depending on the application.
 
2) How well does LP gas mix with air?  I know methane doesn't mix with
air that well.  For CNG applications, we usually place the injectors 
fairly high up in the intake tract, either just above or just below
the throttlebody.
 
3) BKM makes injectors for use with CNG.  I know very little about them.
I believe they will work with any ECM that can handle standard low-impedance
gasoline fuel injectors, though.


-- 
--=< Jonathan Lusky ----- lusky@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu >=-- 
    \    IRC-Op at tramp.cc.utexas.edu (Rodder)   /
     \    89 Jeep Wrangler - 258/for sale!       / 
      \        79 Rx-7 - 12A/Holley 4bbl        / 
       \________67 Camaro RS - 350/4spd________/ 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: csmith@plains.NoDak.edu (Carl Smith)
Subject: Re: WHAT IS AN A-I-R PUMP ON A CHEVY CAPRICE ENGINE?
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 03:43:50 GMT
Organization: North Dakota Higher Education Computing Network

In article <1993Jan20.230149.3129@news.unomaha.edu> mgolden@cwis.unomaha.edu (Brian Golden) writes:
>sim@staircase.bae.bellcore.com  writes:
>> Can somebody please enlighten me as to what is involved in replacing a
>> noisy A-I-R pump on an '86 chevy caprice?

>  Option three:  Just disconnect the pully and get a shorter fan belt,
>so that you can reconnect it come inspection time!

I don't think that taking the belt off is a good idea.  I did that 
and saw no significant increase in power or fuel economy.  But a
few months later I noted that the pump was seized solid.  It turns
out that the check valve was stuck open, which filled the diverter
valve and the air pump with the same black carbon that currently
coats the inside of my tailpipe (so my engine is out of tune..).
To fix the problem I took the pump off and poured various solvents
into it but nothing broke up the gunk.  So I soaked it for a week 
in brake fluid, which broke up the gunk.  I then wrapped a cloth 
around a drill bit, coated the cloth with rubbing compound and 
polished the inside surface of the pump and the rotor.  The pump
works great now.  A new check valve cost me $14.95 and a couple
hours of trying to fit wrenches into a space no bigger than the
valve to replace.  So, all in all it cost me $14.95 and quite a 
few hours of work to get the system running again, just because
I thought it might save some gas & give me more power...  I also
think that taking the belt off might have caused the check valve
to go bad in the first place, due to the larger pressure
difference.


-- 
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Carl D. Smith                                       Inhale to the chief!
csmith@plains.nodak.edu
From: harmons@.WV.TEK.COM (Harmon Sommer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Fan belt falls off
Date: 23 Jan 93 21:26:58 GMT
Article-I.D.: shaman.2550

Reply-To: harmons@gyro.WV.TEK.COM (Harmon Sommer)
Followup-To: 
Distribution: 
Organization: /usr/ens/etc/organization
Keywords: 

>Maybe someone can help me here, I have an 88 Chevy Astro van that has been
>randomly throwing it's fan belt off when I start it up this last week. I
>checked all the pulleys on the alternator, air conditioner, fan, and the
>idler pulley and they are all on solid. Once the van is running and if it

My '88 truck with 350 did the same thing. Two bolts which hold the accessory
mounting plate (which carries A/C, alternator, PSteering pump and idler)
had fatigued and their heads had fallen off. This allowed the PSteering pump
to get out of alignment slightly. It would flex more out of align as I would
place a load on it by steering. The bolts in question  are low on the front
of the engine above and  near the crank shaft.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: gavin@polaris.csis.dit.csiro.au (Gavin Walker)
Subject: HELP!. Popping Oil Filler Cap
Organization: CSIRO Division of Information Technology
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1993 10:31:04 GMT


1978 KE50 Corolla 1166cc ohv 4cyl 145 000km

Help
  I can't keep my oil filler cap (brand new genuine plug in type) in.

Problem: Oil filler cap keeps on popping.

Conditions: With the vacuum advance connected, timing set at 15 deg (zero
	with no advance) and idle at 800rpm the cap stays on.  100 metres down
	the road at 2000rpm it slams into the bonnet (audible bang heard inside
	with the windows wound up).  With no vacuum advance connected, timing
	set at zero deg and 800rpm the cap will stay on for less than a minute
	before it blows at idle.

Background: Yes this is the car that had 23+ degrees of the advance at idle.
	And every was correct, it's not realistic.  The engine knocking badly
	(once I found out what "knock" sounded like).  With this setup I drove
	600km (mainly on the highway) with no performance detriment.  After two
	weeks on no used I drive it again and it's similar but getting worse
	fast (hard to start even when hot and almost stalling at low revs).
	It didn't start popping until after I filled it up.

Done So Far: I've put in a new PCV valve and pipe and new oil filler cap.
	The advance unit on the distributor has problems.  It only supposed to
	draw 10def at 10inHg but instead draws 15+.  There has been a leak in
	the rear engine oil seal for over a year and the car goes through a
	quart of oil over 500km at highway speeds (>3500rpm).  Currently with
	the vacuum unit disconnected is runs as well as with but unit connected
	but stalls when you pull up.  You can hear the PCV value click in time
	with the valves.  It's also due for an oil change.

My Guesses: The knocking engine has damaged the rings causing excessive
	blow-by to develop.  More gases get into the crankcase than the PCV
	valve can deal with.  The only thing against it is that it's not using
	any more oil than normal.  Otherwise, bad fuel maybe.


Can anyone help?  I running with an open engine and no vacuum advance at the
moment.


-- 
  _--_|\             -|-    Gavin Walker
 /      \             |     
 \_.--.*/ <- Canberra,      Walker@csis.dit.csiro.au
       v     Australia      Phone +61-6-2750964     Fax +61-6-2571052
From: schmitt@neptune.jsc.nasa.gov (Leonard Schmitt 283-4150)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Castrol Syntec???
Date: 27 Jan 93 16:58:54 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: MDSSC

In article <1993Jan27.004810.2476@spdcc.com>, jin@spdcc.com (Jerry Natowitz) writes:
|> One month ago, falling for the ad campaigns (and Castrol's good ratings
|> in Consumer Reports), I bought 5 quarts and an oil filter and changed
|> my oil to Syntec.  As an aside, which may be relevent, the oil filter
|> had a bad gasket and leaked about a quart before I got another.
|> 
|> Now, barely 5 weeks later, the oil is filthy black.  I usually never see
|> the oil so dark, I change it when it is dark brown, about 2, 1500 mile
|> months.
|> 
|> I have three theories:
|> 
|> 1) The bad oil filter allowed enough air to mix with the oil to degrade it.
|> 
|> 2) Syntec is so good it is disolving 8 years / 125K miles of Camry sludge
|>    that has been accumulating in my engine.
|> 
|> 3) Syntec is expensive crap.
|> 
|> Anyone care to comment?
|> -- 
|>      Jerry Natowitz
|>      Guest user on:
|> ARPA jin@ursa-major.spdcc.com
|> UUCP {ima,harvard,rayssd,linus,m2c}!spdcc!jin

I recently put Syntec in my 1988 Bertone X1/9, which has 30,000 miles on it.
The oil turned dark in two days!  The main problem I am having with it is the
oil pressure light now takes a second or two to go off after starting the car
if it has been setting for over an hour.  Previously I had used regular Castrol
20-50w and the oil pressure light always went out immediately after starting.
When I change the oil next time I'm going back to the regular 20-50w.

Leonard Schmitt
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: wesf@boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii)
Subject: Re: Fan belt falls off
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 15:32:08 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

Carl Smith (csmith@plains.NoDak.edu) wrote:

  <stuff deleted>
: than normal v belts, due to the fact that they are thinner, so there
: is less streatching of the belt surfaces as the belt passes over the
: pulleys.  But then some fool decided to put in an idler pulley that
: bends the belt backwards and causes it do crack up at 20K.  Why?
: Maybe to sell more belts...  :)

On many rigs, the belts bend forward and backward several times 
throughout their travel in the engine.  This is not a design flaw.
The advantage of bending the belt backwards is that more contact per
pulley can be obtained which requires less belt tension, thus your 
accessory bearings will last longer (less load).  Most service places
will recommend replacing the belts when they see the small cracks on
the ribs, but in many cases, it is unnecessary.  The shops are just
giving you that advice to 1) sell more parts/service and 2) make sure
that you don't have a failure that YOU will be mad at THEM about.  As
I stated in a previous posting.  Check the service manual for YOUR CAR
and see what those design engineers recommend.

Wes Fujii
________________________________________________________________
      ___   ___ ___ 
     /  /  /  //  /
    /  /__/  //  /    A real motor is an Oldsmobile Rocket 455
   /  HURST //  /     "This is NOT the new generation of Olds"
  /  /  /  //  /_______ 
 /__/  /__//  //  ___  \
          /  //  /   \  \       Wes "BANZAI" Fujii
         /  //  /OLDS/  /          Boise, Idaho
        /  / \  \___/  /      wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com
       /__/   \_______/