HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: stevep@sparky.se.hou.compaq.com (Steve Pinn)
Subject: Re: fitted storage cases
Organization: Compaq Computer Corporation
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1992 18:33:19 GMT

In article <e0QR035mc1NF00@amdahl.uts.amdahl.com>, rmd20@uts.amdahl.com (Robert Dusek) writes:
|> 
|> Has anyone here made a felt-lined, fitted case like those for
|> storing delicate instruments?  I just splurged on a set of
|> marking tools from Bridge City and I'd like to give them a
|> nice home.  I guess I have three basic questions:
|> 
|> 	1) What material should be used for the contoured
|> 	   surface?  Wood?  Styrofoam?
|> 	2) How do I shape the recessed contours (depending on
|> 	   the answer to question 1)?
|> 	3) How do I stretch the felt to make it cover smoothly?
|> 
|> 
|> Thanks,
|> 
|> -- 
|> Robert Dusek			Amdahl Corp is not responsible for my opinions.
|
Robert in an old issue of FWW there is an article on fitted pistol cases I
 have the issue at home but of course that does you no good.  If you are looking fora fast reply perhaps someone on the net has an article index program or
try calling Tauton Press.

Steve
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: lpanton@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Lauren C Panton)
Subject: bookcase
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 19:16:00 GMT


     I'm am looking for some unique and interesting designs for a bookcase. 
If anyone could suggest books, etc. with some good designs, I would appreciate
it.
                         Thanks,
                              Lauren
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: clarke@acheron.uucp (Ed Clarke/10240000)
Subject: Re: Hand-held Circular Saws?
Organization: Ciliophora Associates
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 92 01:27:13 GMT

From article <28544@oasys.dt.navy.mil>, by odell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Bernard O'Dell):
> What is the best Circular Saw for the money?
> For fixin up an old house-level of expertise-rookie
> 			   Bosch 1654---- 210.00
> 			   Sears #27542-- 110.00

I like the Skil 77 worm drive saw.  It's $146 from Woodworkers Supply.  I
also got the saw hanger (screws on the top of the saw and lets you hang it
on any convenient 2x4) for $6.95.  The 77 is somewhat heavier than the usual
side-winder saw, but cuts very well and doesn't make as much noise.  This
seems to be the standard saw for professional carpenters.
-- 
               |
Ed Clarke      |  I prefer not to kill animals.  I'm a humanist; I'd
acheron!clarke |  rather kill a MAN than a snake.
               |                 - Edward Abbey (Desert Solitaire)
From: ron@topaz.bds.com (Ron Natalie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re:      Power Miter Box Safety Warning
Date: 18 Dec 1992 20:37:54 GMT
Organization: BDS Systems
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: topaz.bds.com

I'd take the whole saw back to Sears.  They don't make a habit (even in their current fiscal situation) of giving you a hard time.  You seem to especially
have a reason here (it's not like you abused the thing).  It's one of the few
(perhaps only) advantage to getting Sears stuff.  I take it the blade camewith the saw.

-Ron
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: guy@slustl.slu.edu (Guy Smith)
Subject: Re: Staircase Handrail
Organization: Saint Louis University  Saint Louis, MO
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 18:32:50 GMT

In article <1gld16INNh98@early-bird.think.com> steveo@think.com (stephen anthony) writes:
>
>I just bought a house and one thing that's definitely on my list to replace
>is the staircase handrail. Currently it's an iron railing; but I'd like to
>replace it with a wood newell post, handrail and spindles (balisters?). Are
>there any reference books on how to craft such a thing? I'd like to start
You might try an architectural salvage shop. The ones around here are
loaded with ballisters, newell posts, etc, in a variety of styles and
woods. You would still need to modify and finish the stuff but it
would be more manageable with limited facilities than starting with
a tree.
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Safest way to use radial arm saw?
Date: 18 Dec 92 19:48:59 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA

Treble@asc.slb.com (John Treble) writes:
: This may sound like a stupid question, but I'll risk the ridicule
: anyway....
: 
: My father died recently and I inherited his old Sear radial arm saw.  I
: have only part
: of the owners manual. Unfortunately, the part that descibes the setup of
: the table is missing.  I would like to know what the safest recommended way
: to use this saw.

John. Trot down to your local Sears store and buy the book they have on 
use of the Radial Arm Saw.  Or, go to a bookstore and buy a book on the
subject.

Whichever choice you make - be sure you know what you are doing. Table and
radial arm saws are probably the most dangerous tools in the workshop. Treat
them with respect - you may not get a second chance.

: Do I set up the fence so that the saw is parked the furthest away from me
: behind the fence? Or do I park the saw closest to me in front of the fence?

The saw blade is parked behind the fence.

:  Is it best to push the blade through the work, or pull it through the
: work?

You pull the blade through the work. 

: I also have one of those wobbling dado heads, and consider it to be the
: most vicious tool I've ever seen!  How do you put the guard on that beast?

Any cutting edge can be vicious. It is no worse than any of the other saw
blades. It just looks and sounds nastier.

You may not be able to use a guard with the dado head.

Once again - find a couple of good books on the use of woodworking power
equipment. The fingers you save may serve you well in years to come.

Bill
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: frank@austin.ibm.com (F. Karner)
Subject: Re: biscuit joiners
Originator: frank@karner.austin.ibm.com
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1992 01:51:51 GMT
Organization: IBM Advanced Workstation Division


In article <t1b2bxl@rpi.edu>, ameres@ithaca.cat.rpi.edu (Eric Ameres) writes:
> not quality wise) ) etc...
> 
> HAS ANYONE SEEN THE DEWALT BISCUIT JOINER OUT THERE ????????????
> (or heard any reason why I shouldn't want one ???)

Home Depot has them for about $230 here.  It is definitely a nice tool!
Probably the one that I'll end up buying someday (soon).  I hear that
there is one store in Long Island NY.  You could also write to the main 
office in Atlanta GA at P.O. Box 20002, Atlanta 30325.

I checked with the North store in Austin, and was told that they would
even ship out of state.  If you want to inquire further, the number is
(512) 795 8011.

Hope this helps.
-- 

         DISCLAIMER: The opinions expressed in this posting are mine
            solely and do not represent my employer in any way.
       F. A. Karner AIX Technical Support | karner@austin.vnet.ibm.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ameres@ithaca.cat.rpi.edu (Eric Ameres)
Subject: Re: Piano kit
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 19:48:23 GMT

I have heard of a number of places that offered harpsichord kits but
never piano kits.  I would be skeptical about finding a kit because of
the massivness of some of the components.  

I would like to offer an alternative.  Every week in the classified
sections of the local newspapers I see plenty of used pianos for sale.
Some at incredibly low prices.  Perhaps it would be worth it to buy
one of these beasts for it's guts and then building a new case.  Kind
of a real do it youself kit and you get to learn by first taking apart
the old one.  True, there wouldn't be any instructions but hey, life
is an adventure.

After all people renovate houses all the time.  Why not rebuild a
piano?  Sounds like something I might like to try someday.

Eric.
-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Eric Ameres,  Software Engineer                 ameres@cat.rpi.edu
New York State Center for Advanced Technology in Automation & Robotics
Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute - CII 8313, Troy, NY 12180-3590
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 14 Dec 1992 12:35:10 EST
From:         Doug Cutler <UNCDWC@UNCVM1.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Jointer vs Planer

On Fri, 11 Dec 1992 18:59:48 GMT Bennett Leeds said:
>
>
>But, this seems to leave me alone in thinking that I'd get the planer
>first.
>
  No you are not alone, I want a planer, I am totaly fed up with
 most everything haveing to be 3/4" thinkness.  Though it takes somewhat
 longer I can edge a board with hand planes, straight edge, and square with
 little problem even if the board is warped, twisted, etc., however reducing
 large quaitites of stock from 3/4 to say 5/8 even with a "router planer"
 setup is a pain in the neck (or something like that). Also working the
 wood by hand you have to be aware of the grain direction, structure, etc.,
 which you probably need to take into account for the progect in hand.
  And anyway, I like a workshop full of reall pretty wood shawings, not a
 house full of dust .....  my $0.02 for what it is worth.
>But, it's a *lot* harder to use these tools to make one face of a board
>parallel to the other.  And, unless you're willing to either have the wood
>you buy planed at a mill, you'll end up making things out of stock
>thicknesses, which is limiting. Also, I've found that the thicknesses
>of boards, even at the same yard, vary quite a bit from board to board.
>
>So, what am I missing?
>
>- Bennett Leeds
>bennett@adobe.com


  Doug. Cutler                       Office of Information Technology,
  VM Systems Programmer              University of North Carolina.
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-VMS-To: IN%"WOODWORK%IPFWVM.BITNET@pucc.Princeton.EDU" "Multiple recipients
          of list WOODWORK"
MIME-version: 1.0
Content-transfer-encoding: 8BIT
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Wed, 16 Dec 1992 15:51:39 -0800
From:         RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM
Subject:      Fire Place Mantel.

A friend at work replaced her fireplace mantel about 6 months ago

with new one (16 ft long) she and her husband built.

It's a very simple design, basically a 16' long oak plank resting on top of
spacers attached to the top
of a 16' oak plywood shelf (3/4") supported by corbels. The corbels are
attached to a 16' x 12" oak plywood strip that is nailed to the brick fire
place (yes, she said "nailed into to brick just like the one we took out").

The front is covered with a piece of chair railing. The splices between the
plywood planks are hidden by the corbels and the 90 deg. plywood but joint is
hidden with a piece of crown molding.

The 2 big tricks were finding really wide chair rail and a solid 16' long oak
plank.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------

                SIDE VIEW

           { ----------------------- |
           {|   solid oak plank     ||
   chair   { ----------------------- |
   rail -> {|| spac||ers  ||       |||  wallboard
           { ----------------------- |
           {|    oak plywood        ||
           { ----------------------- |
                  \           | | ---|
                    \         | | |
        corbels ->    \       | | |
                       \      | | |
                         \    | | | brick fireplace
                           \  | | |
                              | | |
                               -  |


--------------------------------------------------------------------------


        FRONT VIEW

    -----------------------------------------------------------------
   |    front edge of mantel covered with wide chair rail            |
   |                                                                 |
    ----------[------[-----------------------------[-----[-----------
   {}{}{}{}{}{[{}{}{}[}{}{}{}{}{}{}{}{}{}{}{}{}{}{}[}{}{}[}{}{}{}{}{}{
   |          [      [                             [     [           |
   |          [      [   plywood strip nailed to   [     [           |
   |          [      [   bricks                    [     [           |
   |          [      [                             [     [           |
    ----------[------[-----------------------------[-----[-----------

           {}{}{}{} - crown molding

           [
           [
           [  - corbels
           [


My friends abilities are around accomplished beginner or low intermediate
amitures. I haven't seen the results; but, it sounds very good and they have
a very elegant home.


                        Ron Tye (all opinions my own)
From: lombardo@taurus.cs.nps.navy.mil
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Questions: Craftsman 100 TS and unknown 10" bandsaw
Date: 17 Dec 92 18:42:32 GMT
Organization: Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey CA

Hi,
  I just bought a Craftsman 100 10" table saw. This guy must weight 150lbs.
It's model is 113.29991.  It has a ball bearing 1HP Capacitor motor, twin
belts, one extension and a fence with two pointers for the front fence rail.
Only one rail though, the one on the back side of the table just applies force
directly to the back edge of the table.  This seems like a pretty descent
saw.  I paid $150.  Can anybody comment on the reputation of this saw and
also where I might find replacement parts?

  Next, I also bought a 10" bandsaw.  There is no indication on the saw
anywhere as to a make.  The saw was missing the top wheel cover, so this
might be where the name is (the previous owner is trying to find that
part).  The only thing indicated on the saw are part numbers like:
LBS-3A, LBS-5, HS-110, WS-115 and so on.  Does this indicate to anyone what
this puppy is?

  One last question.  What is a good source for parts for tools in general.
Like where do I get new tires for the bandsaw wheels?


Thanks in advance,
Chuck

 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Charles P. Lombardo			|           lombardo@cs.nps.navy.mil |
| Computer Science Department		|		 voice: 408-656-2102 |
| Naval Postgraduate School		|		 fax:   408-656-2814 |
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

  
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: Preston.Jones@launchpad.unc.edu (Preston Jones)
Subject: Re: Brio Toy Parts
Organization: University of North Carolina Extended Bulletin Board Service
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1992 18:15:39 GMT


I want to thank everyone who responded with information on Brio parts.
Especially Bill, whos posts confirmed that Brio does no longer sell their
parts kit. He by the way was sharp enough to buy them way back when they
were available. He's has a rare commodity now. 

I ordered the axle tacks, magnets, and 5/8" wheels and 3/4" wheels form Cherry
Tree Toys. I received them yesterday, and as they are not Identical to the
Brio they will work with the track. The magnet and magnet tacks are the
same. The 3/4" wheel match the Brio's best. I have tried to draw a cross
section below. You really can't tell they have a  dome front that tapers
to a flat back from the catalog.
 
                ----|----
             --     |     --
          --        |       --
         -----------|-----------
Once again thanks to all who helped.
--
   The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the University of
     North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Campus Office for Information
        Technology, or the Experimental Bulletin Board Service.
           internet:  laUNChpad.unc.edu or 152.2.22.80
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: parnass@cbnewse.cb.att.com (Bob Parnass, AJ9S)
Subject: Williams Tool & Hardware Supply -- bankcruptcy msg
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories, Naperville, IL
Distribution: na
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1992 20:16:40 GMT
Keywords: woodworking supplier, tools, busted


   A recorded announcement on the toll free order line for
   Williams Tool & Hardware Supply of Ft. Worth, Texas says it is
   in Chapter 11 bankcruptcy.

   I dialed 1-800-788-0007.
-- 
==============================================================================
Bob Parnass, AJ9S  -  AT&T Bell Labs  -  parnass@ihlpm.att.com - (708)979-5414
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 15 Dec 1992 20:39:54 EST
From:         ZGDSHSE <ZGDSHSE@SJUMUSIC.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Thanx on Mantelpiece

Hi Steve -

Thanks for the suggestion.  I am really stuck on the design
part of my project and can use any help I can get.  In
particular I am unsure of the molding designs I will use.

No guts to just plunge into it I guess.

I'll check out FH as suggested.

Gene
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: peterson@ucunix.san.uc.edu (John M. Peterson)
Subject: Re: removing scratches on high-gloss finish
Organization: University of Cincinnati
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 19:40:11 GMT

>
>What is the method, if one exists, for removing fine scratches 
>on a high-gloss finish?  Are there buffing compounds 
>available for this purpose?  Is buffing the way to remove them?
>

Try rubbing compound from your local auto supply store.  There are
two types, heavy duty and fine, fine would work for you.  I've
use them  on poly's and laq's with equal success (got all the
brush marks out of one poly job -- 4 hours thou).  Rotten stone
will work to if your a purist.


+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
|  peterson@headcheese.daa.uc.edu      	 In real life: John M. Peterson  |
|                                                                        |
|  College of Design Architecture Art & Planning                         |
|  University of Cincinnati           45221-0016           513-556-1207  |
+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
From: roy_williams
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: French Dovetails?
Date: 18 Dec 1992 18:56:01 GMT
Organization: CCSF Caltech, Pasadena, CA
Distribution: world
Reply-To: roy@willow.ccsf.caltech.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: willow.ccsf.caltech.edu

In article 32920014@hpcuhe.cup.hp.com, kkc@hpcuhe.cup.hp.com (Ken Chan) writes:
>Hi,
>     I'm going to build a small cabinet with thru dovetails to join the 
>top and carcass sides.  To keep the end of the tails from showing on 
>the sides, I've seen molding applied to the front and side top edges.  

Actually I think well made dovetails are much more decorative than a 
coverup operation. You could even get one of those fancy-pants jigs 
that all the magazines have and do tarted-up dovetails...

Roy



Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: morrison@cs.uiuc.edu (Vance Morrison)
Subject: Re: Jointer vs Planer
Organization: University of Illinois, Dept. of Comp. Sci., Urbana, IL
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 21:26:51 GMT

bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds) writes:


>But, this seems to leave me alone in thinking that I'd get the planer
>first. ...

>But, it's a *lot* harder to use these tools to make one face of a board
>parallel to the other.  And, unless you're willing to either have the wood 
>you buy planed at a mill, you'll end up making things out of stock 
>thicknesses, which is limiting. Also, I've found that the thicknesses
>of boards, even at the same yard, vary quite a bit from board to board.

You are of course quite right, if you need a planer, you should get one
(that's why I have both!).  Although you can do some planing on a 
jointer, you are likely to ruin the parallelism of surfaces and is
ill-advised.  Thus you are basically limited to using the thicknesses
that come from the yard, and paying more for pre-planed lumber.  (And
most importantly sanding a LOT more).  

The only reason I suggest the jointer first, however, is that although
it is possible to put a straight edge on a board with the table saw
or router, this is enough of a pain that you will only do it when you
really HAVE to (like gluing up a wide board).  On the other hand, I
have found that my table saw fence works SO MUCH better and my ripping
is so MUCH more accurate if the wood is first straightened and squared
on the jointer.   This is 10 seconds work with a jointer, but considerably
longer without one (so much so that is you probably won't bother).  

Thus buying a jointer will make your table saw work better.  

Vance
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: scot@fc.hp.com (Scot Heath)
Subject: Re: Power Miter Box Safety Warning
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 22:51:46 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Fort Collins Site
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.8 PL6]

Bill McGeehan (IRMTAQA2@SIVM.BITNET) wrote:
: From: Bill McGeehan
:   This weekend, while using my Craftsman power miter box, I was
: showered with a spray of metal. It seems that when I moved it to
: the 45 degree angle I needed, the fence didn't move enough to clear
: the blade. When I looked further, there was a chunk of wood that
: had fallen through the table from the previous cut. This didn't

: to get some opinions. Should a product be able to function this
: way? It seems negligent in that the pointer showed I was locked in

Ok, since you asked......

QUIT WHINING!  No matter how hard any manufacturer tries to make his tools
safe and/or fooproof, not all circumstances are forseeable.  That chunk of
wood that blocked the motion wasn't there when they shipped it.  It's your
responsibility to see that you keep the mechanism of all your tools (all
the moving equipment you posess) clean and in proper working order.

The nature of the environment in which this equipment is required to function
is dirty, fraught with peril and therefore deserves extra attention.  Just
because it worked the last zillion times you used it doesn't mean it will
work this time, especially when the operating conditions have changed.

I am not questioning your abilities but as you think back, was the saw a
little hard to swing into position?  Did anything bind?  It would appear on
the surface for one to be showered with metal would require a persistant
effort on the part of the operator.  Haste almost always makes waste when
working with wood.

This is not meant to be a personal attack but in our sue happy society, I
have had my fill of the general attitude of "protect me from myself".  When
it comes down to it, your the one with his finger on the trigger and no one
can protect you but you.

-Scot
From: SULLRON@MINNA.IIT.EDU (USERS)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Fixing Plastic Laminate Goofs
Date: 19 Dec 92 04:16:58 GMT
Organization: ILLINOIS INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY, CHICAGO
X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.24

I have just completed sinking a 2' x 3' maple breadboard in 
my counter.  Upon cleanup of the tools and equipment
I dropped my drill and chipped the plastic laminate counter top.
Does anyone have any suggestions for filling in the hole?
It's about .25" in diameter, I have the pieces, but they don't
fit really well.  The top is off white with a light gold mottled
pattern on it.

thanks for the help!
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ericb@microsoft.com (Eric Brown)
Subject: Re: Rough cutting laminate
Date: 14 Dec 92 21:41:37 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp

Bob Pelcovits writes:
|I will be laminating a desktop this weekend. I've got a router and the
|appropriate bits for the final trimming, but what should I use to rough cut
|the laminate to start? Thanks,
|

If you are going to have just a couple of inches of p-lam overhanging the
substrate, use a half inch diameter carbide router bit with an integral
half inch ball bearing guide to trim the p-lam flush after laminating.  If
you need to cut a large sheet down before laminating, you can use a table
saw, if you have one.  If you do use a table saw, make sure that the fence
is close enough to the table top to prevent the laminate from slipping
underneath.  If this gap is too large, place a strip of 1/8 inch masonite
(hardboard) or similar material on the tabletop next to the fence to hold
the laminate above the gap.  If you don't have a table saw, one other fellow
mentioned scoring and snapping.  You can also use a circular saw to cut
the sheet laminate.  If you do this, it is best to flip the laminate over
and cut it from the back side to minimize surface chipping.  A couple of
clean 2x4s on sawhorses work well to support the laminate while sawing.

-- 
    Eric
               Microsoft Systems, Advanced Systems Development
            {sun, uw-beaver, apple, uunet, fluke}!microsoft!ericb 
                       internet: ericb@microsoft.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking