HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: goza@norm.JSC.NASA.GOV (Mike Goza)
Subject: Re: Nose in hovering
Organization: IGOAL
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 13:35:10 GMT

Basically there are two ways that I have seen people learn nose in hovering.  The first is to
strap on the training gear and learn to fly while standing in front of the heli.  This is done
exactly the same way that you learned to fly tail in.  This method can be potentially expensive
due to the close proximity of the rotors to the ground ;)

The second method is the one that was described to me and works well.  It is the one that I chose
to learn the maneuver with.  It requires though that you be fairly proficient with forward flight.
Basically, fly the heli to a nose in position 40-50 feet (or higher) off the deck and slowly 
progress into a nose in hovering posture.  When you get in trouble, just increase forward cyclic
and pitch to climb away.  Circle around and do it again.  With practice, you will eventually 
learn to hover nose in at a safe altitude.  Once that is done, start lowering the circuits until
you are as close to the ground as you wish.  Then learning to take off and land nose in is easy
at that point.  I used this method and managed to learn nose in without damaging the heli.  Quite
a relief to the old wallet ;)  As with anything in helis, practice, patience, and more practice
will allow you to do anything.



Hope this helped,
Mike Goza
goza@cheers.jsc.nasa.gov
From: ramsey@maui.cs.ucla.edu (Brenda Ramsey)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: RC ThunderDrome - RC Auto Racing
Date: 9 Oct 92 19:32:06 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department

The Greatest Spectacle in RC Racing

For the fifth year in a row, October 14-18th 1992 will bring 280
racers and 1,000's of spectators to gather at the Olympic Velodrome
which is located at the corner of Victoria and Avalon in the City of
Carson.

The focus of this group of International Racers will be the annual
running of the R/C ThunderDrome.  1/10th scale versions of NASCAR
Stock Cars will speed around the 333 meter track at speeds in excess
of 75mph.

Celebrities, such as Joe Benson from KLOS, Dan Gurney's All American
Racing Team's #98 Toyota GTP car, the Goodyear Blimp, and a Fun packed
midway will make this unique race a fun family attraction.

THURSDAY, OCTOBER 15, 1992
Specially prepared race cars will be provided for the media if they
would like to try their hand at racing.

FRIDAY, OCTOBER 16, 1992
The first day of Qualifying starts at 11:00am and continues until
night fall.  The Goodyear Blimp will fly over and welcome the
racers.

SATURDAY, OCTOBER 17, 1992 
Qualifying continues, and the Peterson Publishing Staff will have 
a special race featuring editors of Motor Trend, Hot Rod, Circle 
Track, Car Craft, and more race for the Gold!

SUNDAY, OCTOBER 18, 1992
Opening ceremonies, 10:00.  The main events start with the Goodyear
Blimp overhead with attending press for aerial photo opportunity
for the attending press.

For further information, and credentials please contact:

Dan Moynihan	818/700-6912 Office
		818/700-2940 FAX
-- 
Brenda Ramsey  (213) 825-3643
UCLA Computer Science Department
ramsey@CS.UCLA.EDU
..!(uunet,ucbvax,rutgers)!cs.ucla.edu!ramsey
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: etxjema@kk270.ericsson.se (ETX-TT-K Andersson Mikael)
Subject: Fuels-synthetic oils ?
Organization: Ericsson
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 13:45:20 GMT

Hi,
I've just bought a new engine (OS32 ABC) and I'm thinking of using some synthetic oil. 
In "my shop" in Stockholm they sell fuel containing 95 % methanol and 5 % of a synthetic oil called Synex.
According to an article that I've read somewhere, 5 % of this synthetic oil is enough lubricant.
This is if you "break in" the engine with this fuel.
Now I'm wondering, in the instructions that came with the engine, the minimum amount of lubricant is 18 % of castor(?) oil, should I use this synthetic oil or stick with the usual stuff.

A friend of mine runs his engines on this fuel with synthetic oil and they seems to run well.

The great advantage is that his models are not greasy after a flight.

Is there anyone else that have any experience of synthetic oils.

Mikael

-----------------------------------------------------------
Mikael Andersson               Ericsson Telecom AB
-----------------------------------------------------------
Al Bundy: "Why go out for milk, when I have a cow at home ?"
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: haley@ee.ualberta.ca (Richard Haley)
Subject: Re: SPEED CONTROLLER
Organization: University Of Alberta, Edmonton Canada
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 17:36:53 GMT

pbrickwood@tamar.compserv.utas.edu.au writes:

>I am interested in building a speed controller for a model speedboat 
>which is powered with a 380 size motor on 8 X 1200 ma nicads. If necessary 
>I could change to 7 nicads. I understand it may be possible using a 555
>chip and a pot driven by a servo ( in this case Futaba S128) switching a 
>mosfet device. Any ideas out there. I could wind a reostat with nichrome wire
>but it is a bit inefficient. The Futaba controllers are around $140 Aussie.

>Any ideas out there.

>THANKS IN ADVANCE

>Peter Brickwood 
The problems I had with the 555 are finding a pot that will
travel 0 - 100% in 90 degrees and carrying even more junk in
my plane. The circuit itself is a simple and cheap solution.

I removed the servo and replaced it with a slightly more complex
circuit using one quad opamp chip that controls 0 - 100 % 
throttle directly from my Airtronics receiver. I connect my circuit
to the existing fuse and add one small reference wire to the switch.
It weighs next to nothing and should run a motor up to thirty amps
using an IRFZ40 mosfet from International Rectifier. Anything larger 
than my 050 would need a small (less than one ounce) heat sink.
I hope to have a circuit one day that will fit where the servo was
originally mounted ( 20 x 53 x 10 mm).
At present my circuit is a bulky 50 x 75 mm and weighs about one ounce.
My cost is about $10 complete but there is a fair amount of work
involved since I'm not an expert.
Richard Haley
-- 
Richard  Haley                          haley@ee.ualberta.ca
Electrical Engineering                  alberta!bode!haley
University of Alberta 238 Civil Elect   Voice (403)492-2954
Edmonton, Alberta Canada                Fax   (403)492-1811
From: gt7511b@prism.gatech.EDU (SMITH,WILLIAM GLEN)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: For Sale
Date: 12 Oct 92 21:19:29 GMT
Distribution: atl
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology

*** For Sale ***

Team Associated Team Car
  - Graphite Body
  - Electronic Speed Control
  - Futaba Radio System
  - Team Associated Stock Motor
  - Stealth Transmission

1 body with bad paint job
hardly used

 $ 200 INCLUDES 2 Battery packs AND the charger. Need to sell.

-- 
SMITH,WILLIAM GLEN
Georgia Institute of Technology, Atlanta Georgia, 30332
uucp:	  ...!{decvax,hplabs,ncar,purdue,rutgers}!gatech!prism!gt7511b
Internet: gt7511b@prism.gatech.edu
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: miked@syscon.rn.com (Mike DeMetz)
Subject: Re: NiCad charger
Organization: Syscon Corporate Headquarters - South Bend, IN USA
Date: Thu, 08 Oct 1992 14:03:24 GMT
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]

A constant current charger can be made easily with a 7805, if
you want to charge faster than overnight you will need a timer
or peak dectect or heat dectect. All chargers will get warm
charging these large batteries at high rates.
From: hutto@SMTC.engr.scarolina.edu (Brent Hutto)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: How fast should I launch my electric glider
Date: 15 Oct 92 02:54:52 GMT
Reply-To: hutto@smtc.engr.scarolina.edu
Organization: NIST Southeast Manufacturing Technology Center

In article <adar.719084245@parcplace.com>, adar@parcplace.com (Michel Adar) writes:
>
>	I've recently finished building a Goldberg Electra and flew it for the
>first time this Sunday (12 years since my last flight) and it flew
>actually quite well.
>	The main problem was the take-off, after leaving my hands the plane was
>not stable at all, and only after a few meters it stoped trembling and
>started to climb. My question is whether it will behave better if I throw
>it harder so it starts faster and whether it is easy enough to do that with
>the transmitter in one hand and the 48 oz. glider in the other.

    Like you, I found that throwing the a/c as hard as I could without
    being wild wasn't quite enough.  You've no doubt heard the warnings
    about not throwing the a/c upward but rather throwing it level.
    Well, I'll go further and say throw it downward. It takes a lot of
    nerve, but a good strong throw aiming at a point about 50' in front
    of you (and with the motor running) will make the a/c dive to about
    belt-high and then fly very stable and level for about 20 or 30 feet
    at which time you have plenty of speed to start a good climb-out.

>	BTW I'm pleased with the quality of the kit and the airplane, my only
>comment is that there should be a fuselage protection for landings
>other than the optional landing wheel.
>
>Michel Adar

    I always fly my Electra in a hay field.  When the grass is about
    midway between ankle-high and knee-high it is almost impossible to
    damage the belly of the a/c on landing.  Makes you sneeze and the
    bugs are bad, but makes even rough landings look good. Also, the
    sound of the tallest stalks of grass tick-tick-ticking on the
    belly right before the a/c settles in and lands is neat with the
    engine off.
-------------------------------
Brent Hutto
hutto@SMTC.engr.scarolina.edu
From: JAL146@psuvm.psu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: TECH TIP: RC10T front tire balancing
Date: 7 Oct 92 14:14:26 GMT
Organization: Penn State University

If you are really into tire balancing, if might be best for you to invest in
some thin lead weights.  If create a small step-up that keep the wheel's
axis level while spin, you'll can make a great balancing truer.

+--------+ | TEAM | | | --+========+-- axis | ASSOC.| | | +--------+

If you spin the tire each time you add small weights to the inside of the
wheel, you will eventually balance it.  If you spin it, and one side becomes
heavy than another, the wheel wheel turn to the heavier side on the bottom.
To counteract this, just an weight on the direct opposite side of the inner
wheel.  When you are finished, the wheel should spin freely without
continually leaning to one part of the wheel.
From: majland@nork.auc.dk (Anders Majland Pedersen)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: one handed control + a foot
Date: 15 Oct 92 00:00:13 GMT
Organization: /user/majland/.organization

In article <Bw34x2.Css@news.cso.uiuc.edu> koebrich@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (koebrich jeff) writes:

  
   I am trying to find a control for rc race cars that will work with one hand
   and possibly with one foot.  The boy I am helping has little use of his right
   side and he wants to participate in rc car racing (his older brother does this).
   I am nearly ignorant of the hobby but I am an electrical engineer so I could
   make modifications to a control if necessary.  The parents are prepared to spend
   up to about $500 for the car and the control.  From what I can gather most
   controls are two handed.  One idea is to convert the speed control to a 
   footswitch.  Another idea is to use an airplane control that combines speed
   and direction control on one joystick.  

   I am hoping that one of you out there in rc land knows of some off the shelf
   control that will help this kid out.  Second best is advice on how to modify
   a standard control.

   Hope to hear something...

   Jeff Koebrich 
   UI Div. Rehab.
   217-244-8265 (w)

   I'll watch the news.

This should not be so hard to do. All RC contols (almost) use standard
variable resisters for the control pins. So "all" you have to do
is, getting a standard 2-channel transmitter, and then modify one of the channels to use an externel var.-resister. F.ex the pedal from an old sewing
mascine. Good luck !

===================================================================
Anders Majland Pedersen		 	AUC 	majland@aud.auc.dk 
Institute for Electronic Systems  		  d502i@kom.auc.dk
Aalborg University (AUC)		Private	majland@nork.auc.dk
Denmark                                 FTP   carlsberg.nork.auc.dk
						        192.38.54.8 
===================================================================

	DON'T WORRY, BE HAPPY, AND HOPE IT WORKS !

===================================================================
--
===================================================================
Anders Majland Pedersen		 	AUC 	majland@aud.auc.dk 
Institute for Electronic Systems  		  d502i@kom.auc.dk
Aalborg University (AUC)		Private	majland@nork.auc.dk
Denmark                                 FTP   carlsberg.nork.auc.dk
						        192.38.54.8 
===================================================================

	DON'T WORRY, BE HAPPY, AND HOPE IT WORKS !

===================================================================
From: macs@worke.Eng.Sun.COM (This IS a test)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Wanted/ available /  and about my new plane!
Date: 16 Oct 92 17:08:44 GMT
Article-I.D.: exodus.ldttosINNpr9
Distribution: na
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Mt. View, Ca.
NNTP-Posting-Host: worke

In article <mhart.719004612@blackjack> mhart@blackjack.dt.navy.mil (Michael Hart) writes:
>Well, I just gotta tell somebody, and you folks are the lucky ones!
>
>Went to a Swap Meet this past weekend, and bought myself a beautiful,
>superbly built Sig? 4-40.  I have never seen such craftsmanship in 
>a sport plane; it rivals the best of any scale plane _I've_
>ever seen.  A real steal at $95.
>
>'Course, my wife says "Why do you need another plane?"  (I''ve got
>a Lanier Caprice currently and an Ultrasport 60 on the boards.)
>What exactly is the correct answer to that query?  I mumbled something
>about this or that and she turned away shaking her head.  :-)
>
>Anyway.  I have an old OS 45F that I was gonna put in it.  I had broken
>the ring on this engine when cleaning it a while back.  I broke the
>replacement ring too.  Grrr.  
>Anybody want this?   Say $25 + shipping?  Or, trade toward.....
>
>I'm looking for an OS 46FSR/abc or an OS Surpass48.  Anyone got one 
>they don't have a need for right now?  I'm flexible on trades, etc.
>
>Let me know if you have any ideas.


Is that Sig Four-Star, or an Ace 4-40?  The Sig plane will be fine
with a potent .40 size engine, but unless the Ace plane is beefed
up ( the wings on the the Ace 4-X0 series tend to be a little 
weak for 2-stroke honking .40s) I would stick with a 4-cycle
engine or a sport .40 engine.

The Sig plane is a low-wing while the Ace plane is a shoulder wing.

Manuel.
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: jlw@world.std.com (James L Walker)
Subject: Re: FTP Site for plans
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 18:54:35 GMT

How would you scan plans anyway?  Would you have to cut them up into
managable pieces?

-- Les Walker
-- "Have a donut Les!  Why thank you Les, don't mind if I do!"
From: jimt@carson.u.washington.edu (James Thompson)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: How fast should I launch my electric glider
Date: 15 Oct 92 22:06:59 GMT
Article-I.D.: u.1992Oct15.220659.20426
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle

I don't understand.  I built my Electra, and launched it just as Goldberg
recommended:  launch it nose-DOWN, aiming at the ground about 20 ft away.
Throw firmly but *smoothly* -- don't fling it with all your might!  It doesn't
take much airspeed to keep these things up, and the slight nose-down helps
to get that speed in a matter of a couple of feet without torquing your arm
out of joint.  What makes for unstable launches is excessive angle-of-attack,
caused by launching nose-up.

When all else fails....

BTW, for all the ease I found in launching this bird, I found crashing to
be even easier.  :-(

Jim
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: mlachow@erenj.com (Michael Lachowski)
Subject: Re: FUTABA Micro Servos
Organization: CTSD
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 12:30:40 GMT

In article <92283.081619N42@psuvm.psu.edu> <N42@psuvm.psu.edu> writes:

>The only difference between the S33 and the S133 is the plug.  The servos are
>identical otherwise.  These arn't bad low cost servos, however, buy stock in
>the servo gears.
>Scott Gregory

I believe the S33 uses the older Futaba 1.32ms pulse width. The newer 
equipment is the more common 1.5ms pulse width.
From: ken@wyse.wyse.com (Ken Drottar x2582 dept303)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: TECH TIP: RC10T front tire balancing
Date: 9 Oct 92 17:34:59 GMT
Organization: Wyse Technologies San Jose, Ca

In article <92281.101426JAL146@psuvm.psu.edu> JAL146@psuvm.psu.edu writes:
>If you are really into tire balancing, if might be best for you to invest in
>some thin lead weights. 

	On an RC10 with the 3 piece wheels, you can make balance changes
	by replacing some of the stock 4-40 hex bolts, which hold the
	wheel assembly together, with aluminum ones. The advantage of
	this approach is avoidance of adding additional unsprung weight. 
	The disadvantage is that it requires a lot of fiddling to get
	it right. The advantage would appear to be less significant
	when applied to a big truck tire, but you never know...

			-ken

-- 
Ken Drottar						Email: ken@wyse.com
Multiproc Systems Division  				Phone: (408)473-2582
Wyse Technology						Fax:   (408)473-2401
From: mkfeil@bcrki9.bnr.ca (Max Feil)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Electric Motors/Gears/Props
Date: 11 Oct 92 16:40:56 GMT
Organization: Bell-Northern Research

In article <sepTKke00iVgQ2OhdN@andrew.cmu.edu> ck3i+@andrew.cmu.edu (Christopher Kristof) writes:
>
>                     However, I have not been able to find a product
>that has better than a 1:1 thrust to weight ratio. (taking into account
>the batteries needed to power the motor)

This is probably true of props, but rotors will create greater lift. Look into
the various electric helicopters that are available such as the Kalt Whisper
or the Kyosho Concept EP. 

Max
--
Max Feil  mkfeil@bnr.ca | Disclaimer:
Bell-Northern Research  |   What do I know? I'm just a Nerd on the Big Ranch.
P.O Box 3511 Station C, |
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada.| "Enrich The Soil, Not EveryBody's Goal" Peter Gabriel
From: guyer@khan.usc.edu (David Guyer)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Propellor Making
Date: 14 Oct 1992 15:24:38 -0700
Organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA
NNTP-Posting-Host: khan.usc.edu

  I've heard that there was an article a few years back, in Model Builder
or Model Aviation that explained a process to make fiberglass or composite
props.  I'd be interested in finding out which issue carried the article.

Thanks

David Guyer  guyer@spock.usc.edu


-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 An unknown Aerodynamicist once said:
                               Anything will fly, 
	                               They just have different glideslopes!
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: shade@chdasic.sps.mot.com (Douglas Shade)
Subject: Re: one handed control + a foot
Reply-To: shade@chdasic.sps.mot.com
Organization: Motorola SPS ASIC, Chandler, AZ
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 21:39:06 GMT


>In article <Bw34x2.Css@news.cso.uiuc.edu>, koebrich@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (koebrich j
>eff) writes:
>>I am trying to find a control for rc race cars that will work with one hand
>>and possibly with one foot.  The boy I am helping has little use of his right
>>side and he wants to participate in rc car racing (his older brother does this)
>..
>> text deleted
>>Hope to hear something...
>>
>>Jeff Koebrich
>>UI Div. Rehab.
>>217-244-8265 (w)
>>
>>I'll watch the news.
>>
> Subject: Re: one handed control + a foot
>
> Idea #1.....
> Find Rc transmitter with buddy control input.
> A cable  socket 6-8 pins for a second tx -instructor box that allows
> his joy sticks to control the student tx)
> you then can use that input for the foot control
> a sewing machine foot peddle  or a electric quitar control what ever
> is cheaper, at least the machanics are there. the resistance would
> have to be change to tx joy stick pot values
> ...........

!!!OH!!! That is a really good idea!  I've been following this thread (I'm mastering in
bio-engineering and love to see people get helped with simple but good ideas!) and
knew most answers would be along this line, but the GUITAR pedal is a GREAT idea.
They have all the right assets, VERY RUGGED (the good ones anyway), and QUIET ELECTRONICS
(potentiometers are electrically noisy by nature).

RICH comes up the middle with a pass from Jeff, slides right... fakes... scoots.... shoots and
SCORES!  What a play!

---
shade@chdasic.sps.mot.com                        \/
602-821-4096                                    \/\/...its not a car 


Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: kaiser@elec.canterbury.ac.nz (Chris Kaiser)
Subject: Re: Glow Plugs
Keywords: Glow Plug
Organization: Electrical Engineering, University of Canterbury, New Zealand
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 20:53:01 GMT

In article <1992Oct11.163256.22526@alf.cooper.edu>, mark@alf.cooper.edu (Mark_Balch-(EE'95)) writes:
> Hello,
> 
> I'm a new commer to the world of RC flying and am looking for information 
> on reliable glow plugs.  I've heard good things about Rossi and OS.  Rossi
> is expensive though and OS doesn't exactly look cheap.  Are there any
> alternatives or should I just bite the bullet and buy a bag of OS glow
> plugs?  Thanks for your input.
> 
> Mark

A bag of glowplugs...? I wouldn't buy more than one or two of any type until you
find a type that works well for you. Everybody has their own preference, some people
will swear that their engine will only run with brand K, while someone else will have
the same setup but use Brand Q. Personally I've had good results with OS #8's and now
use these for all my engines - it saves having to use different settings on the glow
plug driver. Also, I have a plug per engine plus one or two spares - once you have
things set up you shouldn't be blowing plugs unless you fly combat :-) or run race
type engines, etc. 

My advice is to buy a couple of plugs of a known brand, eg OS, K&B, etc, and try them
out. If your engine starts well and runs smoothly on them stick with that type, otherwise
try a different brand or type (although if you're new to running model engines don't be
too quick to blame the plug if you have problems, there are lots of other possible
causes). As a beginner you won't need the last possible oz of thrust from the motor,
so there's no need to try every brand on the market once you've found a satisfactory
plug.

Chris Kaiser

Postgrad, Elec. Eng. Dept.
University of Canterbury
Christchurch, NEW ZEALAND

Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: C0041@vmcms.csuohio.edu (Gregory Stark)
Subject: Re: front wheel
Organization: CSU
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 14:39:31 GMT

  I do believe that the internal gears on Stealth are 48 pitch.
 
                             -Greg
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 10:37:47 EDT
From: <JAL146@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: RC10T Gas Conv. featured in R.C.C.A.

Anyone else get the new issue of Radio Controlled Car Action (11/92)?  On the c
over is a truely wild RC10T converted to gas!  Man, that thing must fly!

Any other dedicated readers of RCCA?

- John
jal146.psuvm.psu.edu
From: ajist1+@pitt.edu (Andrew J Ide)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Dynaflight Bird of Time
Date: 16 Oct 92 18:20:50 GMT
Organization: University of Pittsburgh

In article <Bw48FM.3qq@news.larc.nasa.gov> 128.155.36.211 (Stan Husch) writes:
>
>  I've been thinking about getting the Dynaflight Bird of Time for
>my next project. Has anyone built and flown this kit?
>

>  I would also like to modify this planform with the addition of
>spoilers or preferably flaps. Has anyone tried this?
>Thanks for any input

I have one of these birds with spoilers.  It is a great plane if built light
and strong.  I would recommend fiberglassing the fuselage because it can 
break just in front of the rudder.

I have won both soaring contests and speed contests (with a pound of lead) 
with this plane.  I like it because it flies well and looks great in the air.

Andrew Ide, ajist1@unixd2.cis.pitt.edu