HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: cohill@vtserf.cc.vt.edu (Andrew M. Cohill)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Dangers of sawdust + electric heat.
Date: 6 Oct 92 13:45:52 GMT
Organization: Fire in the Mountain

This seems to be a yearly topic in this group, and in the past the
consensus has been that electric coil heaters and kerosene heaters are a
bad idea in shops where there is sawdust around.

These heaters have red-hot elements that certainly have the potential
for igniting flammable materials easily, even if many people post
anecdotal stories saying they have used one for years without a problem.

A better source for cheap heat are the oil-filled radiators that can be
purchased for as little as $45.  I use one (1) in a 28' x 28' fully
insulated detached shop/studio and even when the temperature drops down
to near zero it will keep the entire building at 45 degrees on setting
3, where the range is 1 to 10.  I estimated that it cost me about
$15/month for electricity.

The one drawback of small heaters is that while they are very good for
maintaining a given temperature, they are lousy for warming the shop up
quickly when you want to go out to work.  I may install a permanent
baseboard heater on my studio side, which is separated by a wall and
door from the shop, to help with that problem.

Andrew 
-- 
|          ...we have to look for routes of power our teachers never       
|              imagined, or were encouraged to avoid.   T. Pynchon          
|                    
|Andrew Cohill        cohill@vtserf.cc.vt.edu            VPI&SU
From: wilson@schaefer.math.wisc.edu (Bob Wilson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Dust Collection with Delta's Contractor's Saw
Date: 29 Sep 92 13:01:41 GMT
Organization: Univ. of Wisconsin Dept. of Mathematics

rdc@world.std.com (Ralph D Clifford) writes:
>     If anyone has successfully installed a shopvac on the contractor's saw so
>that it collects most/all of the dust, I would appreciate it if you would let
>me know how you did it.

>     Thanks.

> 
>-- 
>Ralph Clifford
I have the Powermatic saw similar to the Delta contractor's saw. It
does differ in having a shroud around the blade with a dust collection
port, so my experiences don't carry over completely, but I wonder if
you are using some blade guard similar to the original or not. On my
saw, with the original guard in place and the dust collector running,
very little dust gets thrown around, and what little there is goes to
the floor rather than in my face. With the dust collector running BUT
without the guard to funnel the airflow down around the blade, lots of
dust gets thrown into my face. Without the guard I think most of the
dust which "chooses" to go downward is treated with about the same
efficiency as with the guard, but with the guard there really is a
significant suction downward around the blade.
There have been long discussions of the use of guards, and what kinds
of guards, and so on in this group and I don't want to reopen those
(maybe I do--- anything which reminds us of safety is not a bad idea!)
but this is a function of some guards which I don't think got much
attention.
Bob Wilson
wilson@math.wisc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jdobbs@mwunix (John Dobbs)
Subject: Hand Plane Question
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean VA
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 18:56:31 GMT

I am a fledgling woodworking and have enjoyed following this 
newsgroup.  I have a real basic question about preparing stock, in 
particular, flattening boards.  From what I've read in the getting started 
articles in FWW and Woodwork this sounds like the first, most basic 
step.  My current attempt at this is in taking the cup out of 6" oak 
boards with a hand plane.  I do not have a jointer or planer.  Although I 
may purchase these someday, I believe that I should be able to do 
stock preparation for small projects without them, albeit more slowly.
 
My understanding of the theory of operation of a jointer is that with a 
flat and level outfeed table, blades set at the same height as the outfeed 
table, and a flat and level infeed table at a slightly lower level than the 
blades and the outfeed table, the board is fed  from the infeed table to 
the outfeed table.  As the board passes over the blades, material is 
removed and the board registers against the outfeed table.  The amount 
of material removed is the difference between the infeed and outfeed 
table levels.  The board on the outfeed table is flatter because the "high" 
spots have been removed.

I have been trying to make an analogy between a jointer and a hand 
plane.  In the case of a hand plane, the "infeed" portion (the front of the 
sole) and the "outfeed" portions (the back of the sole behind the blade) 
are the same level (or are supposed to be in a properly "fettled" plane).  
The question is which portion of the plane is acting as the register as the 
outfeed table acts in a jointer (the apparant answer is that the entire 
body of the plane is acting in this way).  It seems that the material under 
the back part of the sole of the plane is lower than the material under 
the front part of the plane because material has been remove by the 
blade.  How does material become flat if this is the case?

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: sdk@controls.ccd.harris.com (Sean Klingler)
Subject: need help using a scraper
Organization: Harris Controls and Composition
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 17:04:21 GMT

Well,

After so many of you encouraged me to start using a scraper rather
than sanding, I went out and bought one.  I bought the scraper and 
burnisher sold by ShopNotes.

Now for the fun part though.  Help!!!!!  I think I am having trouble
sharpening it.  Or maybe I'm sharpening it fine, but not using it
correctly.  Or probably both.  I'm not sure of everything from
how much pressure to apply with the burnisher to what angle to
hold the scraper at when I use it on wood.

To sharpen it, I am following the directions in ShopNotes (I forget
which issue right now) where you use a file and a burnisher.
Is this method the way you guys sharpen one?  This also happens
to be where I got my information on how to use one.

How do you know when the burr is right?  Should it be able to nick
my finger or something like that?

This weekend I practiced on a small pine board.  How much wood should
be taken off in each pass?  Should I really be basically getting
dust?  How much pressure should I apply to the wood with the scraper?

This is a foreign tool to me, so I'm not even sure of the right
questions to ask.  A little from you scraper die-hards would be greatly 
appreciated.  I'm really interested in learning to use this tool
and a little elbow-grease instead of a power cord  ;-)

Thanks,

Sean Klingler
sdk@ccd.harris.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: George.Malindzak@bbs.oit.unc.edu (George Malindzak)
Subject: Old table saw wanted
Organization: Extended Bulletin Board Service
Distribution: usa
Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1992 05:55:28 GMT


--
   The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the University of
     North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Campus Office for Information
        Technology, or the Experimental Bulletin Board Service.
           internet:  bbs.oit.unc.edu or 152.2.22.80
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 28 Sep 1992 07:03:30 -0800
Reply-To:     don@biivax.dp.BECKMAN.COM
From:         Don Roberts <DSROBERTS@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM>
Subject:      Re: Attaching Stud Wall to Concrete

Z>I was wondering if anyone can give me some advice on this topic.  I am
Zpaneling
Z>my basement soon.  The walls and floor are concrete.  The walls are a bit
Z>uneven (a bit wavy).  What I plan on doing is to put up a stud wall so I can
Z>attach the paneling to an even wall.  This is where I need some advice.
Z>I would like to attach the wall to the floor in the easiest way.
Z
ZIn addition to the two methods you mentioned, there is a third way.
ZYou can drill a 1/4" hole through the 2x4 sill into the concrete with
Za hammer drill. Then drive two 16d nails into the hole simultaneously.
Z
ZAnyway, I've used all three methods. The impact driver is the easiest.
ZThe use of "red heads", which is a trade name for the type of fasteners
Zyou describe (I can't remember the generic name either) is the most
Zsecure.

Well, I haven't tried driving two 16D nails into the same hole, but I have done
the other two.  The .22 calibur loads are by far the quickest and easiest, and
the wall is still standing after six years :-).  The bolts seem very strong but
using that impact drill gets tiresome (I crewed setting up rack in a 130,000
sq. ft. warehouse).  The impact drill seems like overkill for your application.

   Don Roberts                   Internet:  don@beckman.com
   Beckman Instruments, Inc.     Phone:     714/961-3029
   2500 Harbor Bl. Mailstop X-12 FAX:       714/961-3351
   Fullerton, CA  92634          Disclaimer:  Blame me, not Beckman.
   So, how many hospitals HAVE been built by organizations of secular
   humanists and atheists, anyway?
From: jeff@claw.clearpoint.com (Jeffrey J. Griglack)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: peeling & chiping wood in a refinish job
Date: 2 Oct 92 13:38:13 GMT
Reply-To: jeff@claw.clearpoint.com
Organization: Clearpoint Research, Hopkinton, MA

My wife and I are refinishing a mahogany Queen Anne style dining room
set.  We are just starting with the chairs.  We tried "Peel Away" on
one chair before we read the entire instruction booklet.  It says not
to use it on mahogany.  The wood on that portion of that chair came
out miscolored and very soft.  Some of the detail in the turnings are
very dry and have chipped.  Some of the other details are peeling like
a veneer, but it is not  veneered.

Does anyone know of a way that we can stop this from happening or
repair the damage that has been done?  We are bringing the rest of the
chairs to a professional stripper (there is just too much of that
little detail work for us to do all 6), so we do not expect to have
any other problems.  The damage is isolated to one leg of one chair,
so I guess that I could try to duplicate the turning, but I would like
to avoid that.

Thankyou,
--

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
|Jeff Griglack             |"To mess about with typewriters and latch keys    |
|jeff@claw.clearpoint.com  | and call it work!"                               |
|jeff@fang.clearpoint.com  |                          -- E.M. Forster         |
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: twl10@ccc.amdahl.com (Tom Littauer)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How do I bend an oak 4x4?
Date: 5 Oct 92 17:40:06 GMT
Reply-To: twl10@JUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Tom Littauer)
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

In article <dnsurber.718036807@node_26400> dnsurber@lescsse.jsc.nasa.gov (Douglas N. Surber) writes:
> ...
>Now that I have this curved octagonal beam, how do I make it round? I've
>never seen a 2" roundover bit for a router and I don't have a shaper.

Others have suggested laminating the beam (and I agree). To get the
round cross-section, you might get 4 router bits specially ground
(don't know how much $$$ - anyone?) to do the arcs for each of the
1/2" sections.

>I'm not very good at wielding sharp tools freehand so I would like
>something requiring less dexterity than a spokeshave.

I sympathize... my hand isn't yet steady enough for really fine work.
Maybe you could get close with a spokeshave or some other tool and
then use some cheat or other to finish up. For example, get a large
belt sander belt, turn it inside out, apply tension with a drum
sander in a hand-held drill, and move it back and forth with a piece
of scrap.Or use the belt like a shoeshine cloth.

Pretty strange, huh? Maybe we ought to start a "well it's weird
but it worked for me" thread? :-) OBTW, no I haven't tried the above
so I don't know if it'd work.

Have fun,
Tom
-- 
Tom Littauer at Amdahl M/S 278, PO Box 3470, Sunnyvale CA 94088-3470 USA
+1 408 737 5056     twl10@juts.ccc.amdahl.com     twl10@amail.amdahl.com
I'll tell you when I'm speaking as Amdahl's Spokesman - usually I'm not.
V'z n fgrnygu-grpuabybtl rapelcgrq .fvtangher ivehf - TBGPUN!!!
From: coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM (Chip Coffin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Radial Arm Saw Survey
Date: 5 Oct 1992 19:11:33 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems
Distribution: world
Reply-To: coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: surfin


I work for sun, but I'm also developing a product on the side that  
will improve the useablity, accuracy and *SAFETY* of a radial arm  
saw.

I would like some input from people on the net, and I would
like to send by regular mail, at my cost, a survey form asking questions 
regarding your radial arm saw and Self Addressed Stamped Envelope.

When/if the product is marketed, I promise survey particpants a 25%  
discount on it.

Unfortunately, I can't disclose it just yet. If you do chose to  
participate, I'll send you the survey (which doesn't disclose the  
product) and a non-disclosure form.  When you return them to me I'll  
then send you the info on the product with another questionaire about  
it specifically.

If you choose to participate, then please send me via email your home
or business address.  


I would really appreciate your help - you can all help me to build a  
better "mousetrap", and when or if appropriate, I'll keep you all informed
of what's going on.

thanks,

chip
From: brian_parry@claris.com (brian parry)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: ShopSmith for sale (local bay area only)
Date: 28 Sep 92 15:49:49 GMT
Distribution: ba
Organization: claris

For sale: ShopSmith Mark V model 510

1 year old
Includes accessory set : push sticks, mitre, books, tapes, sand paper,
square, saw arbors, clamps, and other misc.
Includes tools set : drill bits, lathe chisles, other misc. items.
Include machine mounted tool rack.
Inlcudes Manuals and two project videos.
Includes adjusablt dado blade and arbor.
Includes new bandsaw attachment - never used - still in box.

The unit is in excellent condition - only used three times.
I'm selling it because I just don't use it. I just am not into
doing woodworking as I thought I might be.

Cost over $2600 new a year ago.

Sacrafice at $1500

Contact: Brian Parry
(408) 987-7579

I have a truck so we can work out delivery to your shop.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: need advice on shaper
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 01:18:59 GMT

Eric Brown writes
> In article  bennett@adobe.com writes:
> |Eric Brown writes
> |> WRT shapers: if you do decide to use a shaper, consider the weight to be  
an
> |> asset rather than a liability.  Shapers tend to vibrate a lot, which is
> |> annoying and can produce a poor cut.  The mass of a heavier shaper tends  
to
> |> dampen vibration.
> |
> |I believe that it's better to eliminate vibration by having dynamically 
> |balanced parts than to dampen vibration by brute force (weight). If you've 
> |driven a car where the front wheels aren't properly balanced, you know what 
> |adding an ounce or so on the rim of a many pound car wheel can do to the
> |car's ride.
> 
> While I agree that it is good to strive for minimizing imbalance, it is not
> possible to completely eliminate vibration, even if the arbor, bearings, and
> cutterhead are all high-speed dynamically balanced.  The v-belt(s) alone
> contribute to the level of vibration.  I guess the average wood hobbyist  
(sp?)
> would not be grinding shaper knives; I have done so and the only balancing
> available was a simple beam balance.  The impact of the knives against the
> wood being cut also produces significant vibration.  Given the choice, I will 
> always opt for a heavier shaper...

It's better to put the additional mass into the spindle (or something
attached to the spindle) to act as a flywheel. I'll bet that a few pounds
on the spindle will do more to dampen vibration than a few hundred pounds
on the cabinet.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
"And remember this - there's no more important safety rule than to wear
these: safety glasses."
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas S. Rand)
Subject: Re: Window glazing
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Date: 1 Oct 92 15:45:19

In article <BvG14u.L9r@acsu.buffalo.edu> bartnik@acsu.buffalo.edu (David Bartnik) writes:

   I'm in the process of repairing a few windows around my house before
   winter and I have yet to learn the secret of applying glazing to the
   windows without it sticking to my fingers and putty knife. Hardly any
   of the glazing sticks to the window and what does looks awful. I've 
   tried applying it warm and cold and nothing seems to work.  Any help
   would be appreciated.

It's a pain.  First you take a bit and work it with your hands until
it's warm.  Roll this out with your hands into a rope and press this
rope into the clean and primed (or oiled) area between the window
pane and the frame.  Once you've applied this bead of glazing,  use
the putty knife to press it down and form a nice triangular bead.
Once the glazing is dry,  paint with an exterior paint.

Make sure the glazing isn't old and hard.  You might be able to
soften it with a little mineral spirits,  turpentine or some
linseed oil.  Linseed oil makes a good thinner if you want a 
somewhat softer and stickier version.

--

----------------------------------------------------------------------
Douglas S. Rand <drand@osf.org>		OSF/Motif Dev.
Snail:         11 Cambridge Center,  Cambridge,  MA  02142
Disclaimer:    I don't know if OSF agrees with me... let's vote on it.
Amateur Radio: KC1KJ
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From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Miscellaneous Questions...
Date: 3 Oct 92 05:25:47 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <1992Oct2.163519.25316@informix.com> davek@informix.com (David Kosenko) writes:
>In article <8090013@hpfcdc.fc.hp.com> rer@hpfcdc.fc.hp.com (Rob Robason) writes:

>>1) Norm (NYWS) uses a combo phillips driver/countersink, apparently
>>    slipping the countersink over the hex phillips driver.  This is a
>>    really slick tool that I've looked for in my local stores to no
>>    avail.  Anyone have any ideas about where to get this?

>ON a This Old House episode, Steve and Norm were in the NYW putting something
>or else together for the project, and Norm whipped out that little gadget.
>Steve says something along the lines of `that's pretty slick, where can I get
>one,' to which Norm explains that a fan of the show sent it to him, and that
>he hasn't seen one anywhere himself.  This was from an older season, so
>something similar may be on the market by now (I haven't seen one).

It's called a "Chuck-Mate" (R).  They are a Canadian invention.  They're
available from quite a number of places.  I see advertisements in the magazines
for them all the time.

Lee Valley carries them, in sizes 3/32 to 3/16ths in 1/64th increments.
They're $13.95CDN each, or $89.95CDN for all seven (call it $11 and $72US).
The countersinks are 3/8".

There are also VIX (R) versions (VIX bits have special noses for centering
drill bits in hinge plate holes etc.).  The 7/64 and 9/64 VIX (R) Chuck-mate
(R) bits are $16.95CDN each.

The picture shows them with phillips drivers (why on earth would you want
to use phillips?!), but the text says that they come with square-recess
(aka Robertson) drivers.  The picture may be from a US supplier.  Phillips
doesn't make sense because phillips screws are rarely available as
bulk items in Canada.  You'd have to be insane to use phillips anyways.

Garret Wade is also likely to carry them.

I'll probably break down and buy one or two once my el cheapo set of 4 for
$6 pilot bits self destruct.  (I tend to drill all the holes at once,
then install screws, so for the moment at least, they wouldn't help me
much)
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How do I bend an oak 4x4?
Date: 2 Oct 92 17:48:25 GMT
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ

In article <dnsurber.718036807@node_26400> dnsurber@lescsse.jsc.nasa.gov (Douglas N. Surber) writes:
>
>I want to make two curved 4" diameter beams, 80" long. They will have a
>smooth circular arc 4" high in the center relative to the ends. If I
>could remember enough geometry I would tell you what the radius of the
>bend was. I would like to use white oak. Any suggestions would be
>welcome.

Most curved beams you see in relatively new construction are cut from
much larger pieces of wood. In older work, they simply squared up
naturally curved branches. I believe that bending an oak 4x4 would take
tons of pressure for long periods of time. The normal technique used to
make the beams you describe would be to saw them out of a 4x8.

If you're not in a hurry, you could try buying some wet 4x4s straight
from the mill, brace them on one end and in the center, and put pressure
on them with something like a "come-along". Or check with any lumber
yards in your area, especially those which air-dry material. They may
have some warped material you can pick through.

>Now that I have this curved octagonal beam, how do I make it round? I've
>never seen a 2" roundover bit for a router and I don't have a shaper.
>I'm not very good at wielding sharp tools freehand so I would like
>something requiring less dexterity than a spokeshave.

Well, try working it round with a big rasp. Follow that up with a belt
sander and go from there.

patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
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                    |
George Patterson -  | If you always tell the truth, you never
                    | have to remember what you said.
                    |                        Samuel Clemens
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