HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: EPLUS17@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu (Richard Engelbrecht-Wiggans)
Subject: Re: how to patch a tube--cheap
Organization: C.C.S.O.
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 00:15:49 GMT

In article <1992Oct4.005851.5719@panix.com>
paul@panix.com (Paul Gatker) writes:
 
>In <1992Oct3.200159.4178@netcom.com> tomk@netcom.com (Thomas H. Kunich) writes:
>
>
>>> The container has to seal well so the rubber cement I put in it doesn't dry
>>>out like the glue in every patch kit I bought in the last 2 years.
>
>>What's wrong with the patch kits you can buy in any bicycle shop for
>>$2.00? After you use up the present kit you can use the box indefinitely
>>by buying new patches and the little glue capsules that have one flat's
>>worth of glue in them. Since every capsule is opened fresh they never dry
>>up.
>
> I guess I don't get flats that often. When I do (every 4 months aprox), those
>damn little tubes are hard as rocks. At first they seem to have glue in them
>because a gentle press exhibits some give. This is a sick bit of ironic humor
>as the tube indents not because of soft glue, but because of the air space
>created when the damn glue dried out!!!@!
>
> _Real_ rubber cement stays liquid when kept in a tiffany egg or similar
>container, and if it gets a little too thick a bit of thinner revives it.
>
>--
>*******************************************************************
>paul@panix.com                                    COMPULITE GRAPHICS
>Brooklyn NY usa                                Design & Consultation
>********************************************************************
 
Since leaving New Haven (where we averaged a flat every other day or
so), we now average a flat every 5k or less.  Rather than take a repair
kit along, I take two spare tubes.  IF I get a flat, I use a spare tube.
The flatted tubes go into a box.  Then, when there are enough flats to
roughly use up a repair kit, I fix them all up and start using them as
spares.
From: paynter@bnr.ca (Stuart Paynter)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Dealing with broken MTB derailleur
Date: 6 Oct 92 18:00:36 GMT
Reply-To: paynter@bnr.ca (Stuart Paynter)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.

One method that I have seen work, is that the chain can
be left on the short side, and adjust wheel forward in 
the dropouts.  This should if there is sufficient adjust-
ment in the dropouts.  It worked in our case on a ride in 
Lake Placid where a friend snapped the rear derailleur 100
yards from the end of the trail (but there was a 2 mile
ride on the road to get back to the car!)

Cheers...Stuart
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: paynter@bnr.ca (Stuart Paynter)
Subject: Re: Should Trek Replace My Frame ?
Reply-To: paynter@bnr.ca (Stuart Paynter)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Tue, 06 Oct 92 18:08:41 GMT

One of my friends had the exact same problem on the exact
same bike.  Trek replaced it no questions asked.  Therefore,
in answer to your question, yes Trek should replace it.

My friend ended up getting a Trek 7000 out of it because
the replacement 930 was stolen a week after he got.  I 
don't think Trek had anything to do with it though.
From: U3C@psuvm.psu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Should Trek Replace My Frame ?
Date: 6 Oct 92 16:02:46 GMT
Article-I.D.: psuvm.92280.120247U3C
Organization: Penn State University

My two year old Trek 930 has formed a ovalized head tube.  The bike's
headset is currently being held in place with liquid steel.  This is
a temp solution...the headset will come loose again within 100 miles.

I take care of my bike and though the stock headset would come loose
during a ride it would always be tightened before the next ride.

In the nets opinion does this situation fall under the lifetime
frame replacement policy of TREK???

Thanks in advance...steve Litvin   u3c@psuvm.psu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tan@lynx.msc.cornell.edu.UUCP (David Tan,Box 219 Baker Lab,54810,2720402)
Subject: Re: Why no cantilevers on racing bikes?
Originator: tan@msc2.msc.cornell.edu
Organization: Cornell-Materials-Science-Center
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 14:52:35 GMT

From article <1992Sep27.223054.1391@guvax.acc.georgetown.edu>, by webel@guvax.acc.georgetown.edu:
> In article <1992Sep27.204013.15757@msc.cornell.edu>, tan@lynx.msc.cornell.edu.UUCP (David Tan,Box 219 Baker Lab,54810,2720402) writes:
> 
> stuff on braze ons deleted
> 
>  
>>> 2. Tradition (this is my bet :-)
>>> 
>>> Still doesn't really make sense, though. I mean, if even technofreaks (aka
>>> `racers not afraid to embrace new technology -  e.g. Lemond) haven't used
>>> anthing other than stock Dura Ace or Campag Deltas, then what's going on?
>>> 
>> 
>> Maybe technofreaks like Lemond have found "stock Dura Ace or [in GL's case]
>> Campag Deltas" to be the best brakes for the job.
>> 
> 
> The obvious response to this answer that non-cantilever are best for 
> the job is why are they best for the job, I think that is what was 
> really being asked.  Never having ridden anything with cantilevers I 

See previous discussions re: sensitivity and rigidity of different brake
designs.


Dave

From: slo@otter.hpl.hp.com (Steve Loughran)
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 09:00:31 GMT
Subject: Re: helmet mounted lights?
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories, Bristol, UK.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech


I've got a "headlamp" by Petzl -a French climbing/caving equipment co.
The lamp's halogen with a variable-width beam : wide to see where you can go,
narrow to see where you are going.

The light comes with an elastic loop and the battery pack (4.5v) is at the
back. Climbing helmets come with metal studs to hold it in place, but for
biking you can get extra plastic clips which attach to the elastic and then 
hook to the rim of the helmet. (best on shell helmets)

I find it a bit odd having more weight on your head -it makes the helmet
slower to turn.

However it's good for:
	late night mountain biking (except in thick fog)
	staring out cars at junctions
	lighting up road signs and maps -important touring sometimes.

I dont know if its actually legal lighting here in Britain as it isn't
mounted to the bike itself, but I've never had any problems.
From: jgholm@crhc.uiuc.edu (John G. Holm)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Rebuilding Wheels
Date: 6 Oct 1992 14:36:53 -0500
Organization: Center for Reliable and High-Performance Computing, University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign
NNTP-Posting-Host: rio.crhc.uiuc.edu

The spokes on my bike are corroding and the spoke
nipples are rusty.  I've owned my Bridgestone RB-2
for 3 years and I have ridden it this way without
incident for the past year.  The rims (wobler) and
hubs (shimano) are in good shape.

I would like to have the new spokes put on. 
(If anyone thinks think this is unnecessary, please say so.)
The local bike shop tells me the price is 
$0.50/spoke + $25.00 labor/wheel or > $40/wheel.
Is this a reasonable price?

I can order DT spokes from NASHBAR for << $0.50/spoke.
Should I do this myself?  I would prefer to do this
myself, but I fear that I will spend more on tools and
parts than I would just having the bike shop do it.
How hard is it to replace the spokes on both wheels?
I expect the rear wheel is more difficult because I
would at least have to remove the sprockets from the
freehub.

All advice via posting and email is welcome.

John Holm
jgholm@crhc.uiuc.edu
From: king@reasoning.com (Dick King)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: helmet mounted lights?
Date: 6 Oct 92 18:03:33 GMT
Organization: Reasoning Systems, Inc., Palo Alto, CA

In article <1992Oct5.145318.2208@ryn.mro4.dec.com> hanam@sailr3.enet.dec.com () writes:
>
>
>how are helmet-mounted lights attached and designed?

I designed my own.

>
>does the battery mount low, on your belt maybe, and a 
>wire run to the lights?

Yes.

I used a guitar cord, which is probably heavier than need be.

Coiled phone cord would probably work.

>			 i'd think having the battery
>up on the helmet would be alot of weight for your neck..

Oyes oyes.

I taped mine to the rack with duct tape.

>
>and how does the light attach? drilling holes in a helmet
>weakens it, and i'm pretty sure it wouldn't be recommended.

I attached my light to a piece of 1/16" aluminum sheet bought at a hobby shop.

The cutout is human-shaped.

The feet curl back, around the lip of my [hard shell] helmet.

The arms bend forward and hold the [Union Halogen] light via a bolt.

The head has a small hole that holds the hook of a short bunji cord.

The hook at the other end of the bunji cord hooks over the rear lip of the
helmet. 

>
>considering building my own halogen system. i ride my
>atm strickly in the woods and it's getting dark so early
>these days... 


A weakness of helmet mounted lights is that they show terrain structure very
poorly, because every point on the ground that your eye can see, the light
[mounted just above your eyes] can also illuminate, so you see no telltale
shadows.

Helmet mounted lights are VERY good for riding in traffic.  You can flash the
car that is about to trash you; most of them stop.  I do this twice per month
or so.


If you are riding an ATB in the woods, use a handlebar mounted light.

-dk

Disclaimer: the bunji cord on my helmet is unsuitable for bunji jumping.
From: jwgst2+@pitt.edu (James W Gourgoutis)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Can someone give me advice on headlights?
Date: 2 Oct 92 15:57:00 GMT
Article-I.D.: blue.6709
Organization: University of Pittsburgh


	With all the talk on the net about home-brew lighting systems, I am
interested in making my own.
	I want to take an old driving light from a car and hook a battery up
to it.  I would change the standard 12 volt bulb to a 6 volt, and use either
a 6 volt lantern battery, or wire up 4 1.5 volt D cells, or 4 1.25 volt Ni-Cad
rechargable D cells.  The latter is what I want to do, since I already own a 
battery charger for these cells.
	I'm sure this would work, but what I want to know is, will it be bright
enough?  I want to actually see, not just be seen, since winter is coming and
my daylight hours for MTBing are decreasing.
	Also, what amperage and wattage of 6 volt bulb should I try?

	Any info would be GREATLY appreciated!
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
James Gourgoutis       				   
Mechanical Engineering                                O   
University of Pittsburgh                           _ /__,     
e-mail me at:  JWGST2@unixd.cis.pitt.edu          (_) /(_) 
	       or JWGST2@vms.cis.pitt.edu
Thanks!                                     "A bonafide BIKAHOLIC, and DAMN
                                             proud of it!"    
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-       
--
From: etxorst@eos.ericsson.se (Torsten Lif)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Cantilever Technology;  Scotts are more
Date: 1 Oct 92 15:20:33 GMT
Reply-To: etxorst@eos.ericsson.se
Organization: Ericsson Telecom AB

In article 9Cq@watserv1.uwaterloo.ca, praetzel@marconi.uwaterloo.ca (Eric Praetzel) writes:
In article 9Cq@watserv1.uwaterloo.ca, praetzel@marconi.uwaterloo.ca (Eric Praetzel) writes:
>In article <1992Sep27.031651.11152@dartvax.dartmouth.edu> Gen.M.Kanai@dartmouth.edu (Gen M. Kanai) writes:
>>many companies use the "Scott Self-Energizing Brakes" on tandems just
>>to show how powerful they are.  They are almost too much for a normal
>>bike...
>   Really?  How on earth can they be more powerfull?  Any canti's I know will
>lock my rear wheel or put me over the bars when properly setup (the difference
>being that the cheap ones will shift after a good hard brake).  I can not see
>them being any better than any normal canti's.  On a tandom your problem is
>with extra mass.  This means that you need a larger pad to distribute the
>heat and more surface area for more friction; you do not need more force.  The
>only good solution is a set of hub or disk brakes (now readily available at
>Bike Nashbar for some high price).  I have seen radical differences over the
>years in brakes performance but that is because of differing brake compounds.
>However, the result is still heat and if the Scott ones are really more
>powerfull then they will melt the glue on a tubi faster but they will melt it
>just like any other canti.

Wrong on two counts. First, larger pad surface does not give more
braking power since your contact pressure is force/surface so the
friction is constant (assuming friction rather than stiction) and
mostly independant on pad size. Larger pads WEAR slower and do (as you
say) dissipate heat better.

Second, the reason self-energizing brakes feel powerful is that they
require less activating force than "normal" ones do. I personally don't
necessarily find this a good thing, since the brake action is
non-linear and can be hard to predict - i.e. as the rim dries up, the
brake will self-activate and may in an extreme case lock up the wheel,
but for anybody wanting to stop a tandem (remember: needed braking
force is linear to mass), they can be an attractive alternative since
they are the nearest we can get to "servos" on bikes. I've considered
using them on my recumbent since it has so little weight on the front
wheel but I'm currently quite happy with a Force-40-like system which
has the advantage of being more linear. Maybe I'm just picky about that
since the bike is a Linear... :-)

>  - Eric 

---
 Torsten Lif                          |   Upright bicycles are
 Ericsson Telecom AB, EO/ETX/TX/AD    |   a pain in the ass!
 S-126 25  STOCKHOLM, SWEDEN          |   
 Tel: +46 8 719 4881                  |   Be comfortable - ride a recumbent.
From: kenl@origami.cc.bellcore.com (Ken Lehner)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Since we are talking about pro equip
Date: 1 Oct 92 19:16:45 GMT
Organization: Bellcore

In article <1992Sep30.230341.19613@netcom.com>, tomk@netcom.com (Thomas H. Kunich) writes:
|> In article <BvD2y8.Cw9@world.std.com> dp@world.std.com (Jeff DelPapa) writes:
|> >I was slightly surprised to see such conventional hardware in evidence
|> >at the olympic road races - specifically the wheels all seemed to be
|> >conventional spoked construction, rather than the disks and composite
|> >3 spoke wheels that I see at my local bike emporia.  Likewise the
|> >frames seemd to be fairly conventional tubing, very much unlike the
|> >composite wonders used by the timetrialing (which also happend on
|> >regular pavement) contingent. Despite their ameteur status, the price
|> 
|> Ahh, you noticed. Well, the difference from all of that aero equipment
|> is so small that it is all lost if you pick your head up to look
|> forward for a couple of seconds.
|> 
|> It gives much more psychological aid and comfort than actual aid.
|> 

I guess all those professional triathletes who use disks and composite spoke
wheels either a) never pick up their heads to look forward for a couple of
seconds, b) go faster due to the psychological aid and comfort they receive, c)
are paid big bucks by sponsors to use these products, or d) actually gain speed
through the use of these wheels.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: idelson@bms.com (Ira Idelson)
Subject: DURA-ACE STI Problem
Reply-To: idelson@bms.com
Organization: Bristol-Myers Squibb PRI
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 17:39:22 GMT

I'm posting this for a friend who doesn't have access to the net.

Last week his 2 month old Dura-Ace Sti shifter went on the fritz. It is the mechanisim to shift the front derailleur. It jammed.

The mechanic said the mechanism was sealed so he"d have to send it back to Shimano for evaluation. Shimano said it was defective and that they'd replace it.

The down side of this is that he has been without his bike for a week already and Shimano is not shipping the part until this Friday, the earliest. Since Keith has no bike, we had to cancel our weekend reservations in Lancaster (Do you know how hard it is to get rooms there this time of year. And the weather for this weekend looks good too!)So now kewith is temporarily out of a bike and we're both out of a great weekend of cycling.

My question is has anybody else had this problem or heard of it before?

I will pass any and all information on to keith.

Thanks. 
Ira Idelson



Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: shenry@cs.rice.edu (Sam Henry)
Subject: Re: Gearing question
Organization: Rice University, Houston
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 19:15:56 GMT

In article <9210051710.AA20004@noc2.dccs.upenn.edu>
gustilo@POBOX.UPENN.EDU writes: 

>... My mountain bike came from the store with the following gearing:
>
>48-38-28 chainwheels and a 13-26 cassette. The crankarms are 175mm
>long. ...

>--learn to climb better? the uphill portions I have trouble with tend
>to have either rocks or exposed tree roots with a pretty steep grade. I
>usually spin out the backwheel at these trail sections.

this gets my vote.  The combination you are using is a 28" gear.  
If you are spinning it, you should be able to climb most of what you
describe. 

A 13-30 set of cogs will get you a 24", just enough to notice at these
speeds in these conditions.  A 24 tooth chainwheel will get you the
same 24" gear, but is probabaly cheaper.  Doing both will get you a
really small 20" gear, but I'm not sure how happy you'd be with the
remaining gears.  Gearing for one specific condition is usually not
conducive to happy cycling when you are a GP cyclist.  Serious racers
do it, but then they expect to change wheels and gears race-to-race
and day-to-day. 
-- 
sam henry <shenry@rice.edu>
Wanna ride?
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: uphhsbt@Msu.oscs.montana.edu
Subject: Re: Hyper-Cracker?
Reply-To: uphhsbt@Msu.oscs.montana.edu
Organization: Montana State University
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 21:29:57 GMT

In article <1af8rgINN809@early-bird.think.com>, bobs@Think.COM ( Robert Schwartz) writes:
>
>During a recent century, I had a spoke pop on the freewheel side
>of my rear wheel.  The mechanic in the support van mentioned that
>he had seen a device called a "hyper-cracker" that can be used to
>remove a hyperglide cassette "in the field".  He described it as a
>small device that you attach to your cassette and chainstay and then
>pedal the bike (backwards I assume) to loosen the cassette.  I have
>seen or heard of this device.  It sounds like a handy little item to
>have when doing long unsupported rides w/ my wife and friends.  He 
>said it was small enough to carry in a tool kit.
>
>Has anyone in wreck.bike world seen/heard of/used this tool?  If so,
>does it work or is it a gimmick?  Any advice or anectdotes regarding
>this would be appreciated.
>
>
>Bob Schwartz
>Thinking Machines Corp
>Cambridge MA

You can find these in most mail order catalogs.  The company also makes one
for freewheels.  I have the Hypercracker and it works well.  It has a tab
which pushes against the frame to torque off the cassette.  The tab itself
is coated in plastic so it won't mar the frame.  I can't remember for sure
but I think Performance has them for around $8-10.

Brett Taylor> 
>
From: broadley@lrdc5 (Bill Broadley)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Why no cantilevers on racing bikes?
Date: 29 Sep 92 14:31:40 GMT
Organization: University of Pittsburgh

>This is not true. Cyclo cross racing bikes and Mt. Bikes have
>cantilever brakes. The only real technological reason why
>is for mud clearance.

Hmmm I can think of a few others.  Less weight (Shimano Dura Ace brakeset
612 grams, Diacompe canti's and levers 325 g or so).  Stronger
braking.  Adjustable spring return.  Easy to center.  

>As for road racing bicycles (which I'm sure is what you meant)
>there is absolutely no reason to use them. Cantilever brakes may
>supply a bit more braking power but a good caliper brake will
>supply more than adequate stopping.

Hmmm under all conditions?  Ice? Rain?  Would you bet your life on it?
I've had good shimano brakes overwhelmed by ice after riding through
a puddle in the cold.  With Canti's I can usually remelt the ice in a few
feet of heavy braking.  

>Caliper brakes are much simpler to adjust than cantilever
>brakes. This is most likely the most important reason. Centering
>a caliper brake takes a couple of seconds with a cone wrench,
>centering a cantilever is a pain in the ass, even with a third 
>hand. Getting the pads the correct distance from the rim is 
>also much easier with calipers.  

Funny I never had a problem simply use an allen wrench for the Suntour Canti's 
or use a small allen wrench for the Shimano.  For either it's a quick job.  
Also with canti's the lever of spring return is adjustable, as opposed to the 
unadjustable sidepulls.  Also the spring is adjustable seperately on each
side.
 
>Another thing that is much easier to do with caliper brakes as 
>opposed to cantilevers, wheel changes.

Oh yeah why is that?  Canti's have a quick release, I have even detached and
reattached a brake WHILE riding.  And when Canti's are released they are much
further out of the way then a sidepull when released.  Never had to deflate
a tire to get it out of a cantilever brakes grasp.  Also don't need silly
little guides on the brake shoes to help the tire past.

I agree that each brake has it's place, but cantilever brakes work well,
are quite light, strong, and durable.   How long the straddle cable has a 
marked effect on feel, modulation, strength etc.  Spring return is adjustable.
Good brakes have adjustable toe without having to bend the brake arms.

Oh yeah usually cantilevers are cheaper.  Finding top of the line Canti's for
under $25.00 is not unusual.  I.e. Diamcompe 986, Suntour Xc-pro etc.

--
Bill
Broadley@neurocog.lrdc.pitt.edu
From: jskaggs@slate.mines.colorado.edu (JoJo was a man...)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Since we are talking about pro equip
Date: 5 Oct 92 13:57:11 GMT
Organization: Colorado School of Mines

In article <1992Oct4.224537.258@hpcvusn.cv.hp.com> harry@cv.hp.com (Harry Phinney) writes:
>
>
>Aero equipment does make a real difference.  From my own experiences, I
>estimate that aero bars are worth close to 1 mph.  I also estimate that
>a disk rear wheel and blade-spoked front are worth about a second in a
>1000 m TT.  For someone riding non-competitively these differences are
>negligible.  For someone racing, they are significant gains.
>
>Harry Phinney   harry@hp-pcd.cv.hp.com

I agree.  I know several MTB riders who also use aero bars for flat
stretches and long, gentle climbs, because aeros allow you to open your
ribcage more and breathe more efficiently.

As far as cost goes, I don't ride competitively, and so I don't spend tons
of money to have the newest, lightest equipment.  But I guess if somebody
does have the money to spend on toys (That is, racing equipment for peopole
who don't race), who am I to begrudge them that?


-- 
These opinions belong to me.  Any re-broadcast or re-transmission of these
opinions without the express written consent of the NJF (National Joe
foundation) is a violation of applicable copyright laws.
From: flip@sage.cc.purdue.edu (Phillip Russell)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: how to patch a tube--cheap
Date: 4 Oct 92 06:25:09 GMT
Organization: Purdue University Computing Center

>>> The container has to seal well so the rubber cement I put in it doesn't dry
>>>out like the glue in every patch kit I bought in the last 2 years.
>
>>What's wrong with the patch kits you can buy in any bicycle shop for
>>$2.00? After you use up the present kit you can use the box indefinitely
>>by buying new patches and the little glue capsules that have one flat's
>>worth of glue in them. Since every capsule is opened fresh they never dry
>>up.

Where can you buy extra patches?

My glue always outlasts the number of patches that come with the kit.

Flip


-- 
    __@  __@        Phillip "Flip" Russell  | Purdue University
  _-\<, -\<,_       flip@sage.cc.purdue.edu | West Lafayette, IN
 (_)/---|/-(_)      "We don't have enough power captain!!!"