HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: justin@bnr.ca (Justin Wintour)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Fish Compatability
Date: 9 Sep 92 04:59:43 GMT
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Ottawa, Canada

Hi. As a way of introduction, let me say that although I am a 
reqular reader of this group, I only have access to it through my
husband's workplace. As the spouse of a fish hobbist, he is very
interested, as long as he doesn't have to do any of the work! I
am new to the hobby(entering my second year), but I have gone
from a 2 gallon desktop to a 30 gallon, and I am now working on
my pride and joy - a 90 gallon freshwater.

I do need some advice as to what kinds of fish are compatable
with my present population. I have 7 angels, 4 cory cats, one
small pleco-type(which the store owner promised would stay under
6 inches), and a combination of 28 tetras, danios and platies. 
They are a very peaceful group and I very much want to keep them
that way, but after reading this group, I'd love to get some
clown loaches, or red-tailed sharks. Would they fit in? Should I
keep a single fish, or are they better in groups?  The guy in the
fish shop told me that red-tailed sharks create "tension" for the
other fish, and the clown loaches are prone to ick. Is this true?
Are there any other fish which would go nicely and make the tank
interesting? Also, I have tried to keep otocinclus in my 30
gallon, but they all lived one month and died - did I starve them
to death by cleaning the tank too much?  Would they eat zucchini?
Should I keep a group of them, or is one O.K.?

 Is freeze-dried tubifex O.K? And finally, are two 40 watt tubes
enough to grow truly magnificent plants(!) and if so, what are
the best types to use?

Thank you in advance for any help offered. Just reading this
group has helped me with so many other questions, and has kept my
spirits up when no one else wanted to hear one more word about
fish!!   Janet. 

 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 
|Janet Pitcher-Wintour| Bell-Northern Research | justin@bcara186.bnr.ca |
| Dept 7G11           | PO Box 3511, Stn. C    | Voice: (613)763-5983   |
| Carling Stop 140    | Ottawa, Ont. K1Y 4H7   |   FAX: (613)763-7091   | 
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: tli@skat.usc.edu (Tony Li)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Automated water changes
Date: 9 Sep 1992 00:35:11 -0700
Organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA
Distribution: na
NNTP-Posting-Host: skat.usc.edu

    >I've never understood architects.  It should be obvious to everyone that
    >each room in a house needs a drain and a water source.  
    >Oh well.
    
    Along with air and CO2 outlets, a computer bus, and speakers.
    
Not to mention the fiber, the coax, and several pair.

-- 
Tony Li - Escapee from the USC Computer Science Department          tli@usc.edu
		       The net is not what it seems.
From: sh240031@wvnvms.wvnet.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Does grounding the sump work?
Date: 8 Sep 92 12:06:00 GMT
Organization: West Virginia Network for Educational Telecomputing

Igor@uicu.edu writes:
		Is grounding the sump as good as grounding the tank?

This past weekend I put this to a test.  First, I measured the voltage between
my ground electrode in the tank and the ground at the outlet to be 74.3 volts.
next, I removed the ground from the tank and placed it tn the sump and once
again measured the voltage between the ground and the electrode and found it to
be the same 74.3 volts.  The electrode remained in the sump.

				Carl
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: jgraham@ucs.indiana.edu (Jim Graham)
Subject: Re: Salt Survey Results
Followup-To: rec.aquaria
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 19:01:39 GMT

In article <1992Sep9.202545.13032@inel.gov>, crayfe2@inel.gov (John
Metzner) wrote:
> 

> 	I also had several comments about this ugly disclaimer below.....
> sorry folks it's outta my control.......Hit 'n'............
> 
 
> ========== long legal disclaimer follows, press n to skip ===========
> 
> Neither the United States Government or the Idaho National Engineering
> Laboratory or any of their employees, makes any warranty, whatsoever,
> implied, or assumes any legal liability or responsibility regarding any
> information, disclosed, or represents that its use would not infringe
> privately owned rights.  No specific reference constitutes or implies
> endorsement, recommendation, or favoring by the United States
> Government or the Idaho National Engineering Laboratory.  The views and
> opinions expressed herein do not necessarily reflect those of the
> United States Government or the Idaho National Engineering Laboratory,
> and shall not be used for advertising or product endorsement purposes.


Get a spine.  Do they also pick out your clothes ?



Jim
From: mattk@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (matthew.kaufman)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Electric  cats?
Summary: Huh?
Date: 13 Sep 92 16:10:52 GMT
Article-I.D.: cbnewsl.1992Sep13.161052.26066
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T

In article <1992Sep11.003809.6750@odin.corp.sgi.com> sik@grosz.esd.sgi.com (Seth Katz) writes:
>Hi
>
>Anyone here keep electric cats?
>
>My local, usually knowledgeable, store says 
>they are good cats for aggressive cichlids.
>Others say they paralyze and kill cichlids,
>regardless of their behavior.  
>
>My local says I am in no danger of being hurt
>by them, especially if I don't touch head and 
>tail at the same time.  They also say I can put in
>anything larger than the cat's mouth.

Umm, err, uhh. I wouldn't agree with that. *If* you are hurt by them,
you can be *seriously* hurt. This is what I learned from a talk by, hmm,
who's that big Tropheus breeder from Indiana - Somermeyer? Yeah, he was
diving in Lake Tanganyikan and thought he had anesthesized a hole
in some rocks to net out the fish, but apparently hadn't used an
anesthetic that works on electric catfish. I believe he said some of the
natives have been killed by big catfish (the catfish *do* get to be pretty
big).

Joe De Rosa told me one he kept electric catfish or knew someone who did.
Maybe he'll chime in. In the meantime, why not contact your local public
aquarium or zoo and ask for the curator of freshwater fishes to find out
for sure.. I certainly wouldn't buy a dangerous pet on the say-so of
the person trying to sell it to you. Further, why risk something valuable
and attractive as a big cichlid?

And even for me, a known aficianado of fish that are less than glamorous-looking
(still working on that tank of black-chinned tilapias, albino cynolebias whitei
and aphyosemion franzwerneri) they're just a bit *too* ugly to consider for
a tank. Brown cigars with beady little eyes that are dangerous. Uggh.
-- 
"I am the chosen one."  | Copyright 1992 mattk@usl.com. Permission for
                        | reproduction in printed media or by pay-for-read
"And I Choose to be     | services explicitly disallowed. Permission granted to
shopping!"              | USENET and like free facilities.
From: mch0@harvey.gte.com (Michael Hatz)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: 3 Totally unrelated questions....
Date: 14 Sep 92 04:56:09 GMT
Organization: GTE Laboratories

Please RSVP to hatzm%venus.dnet@gte.com

1)  What are good substitutes for feeding piranhas live goldfish?

2)  I have a 10 gallon tank and want to put dwarf cichlids/small ones
in there.  What species can you recommend for ease of breeding and
hardiness, also, how many could I put in a 10 gallon tank.

3)  A friend is looking to sell a 55 gal salt setup with stand and all
the goodies.  The tank has been establihed for about 3 years and has a
couple of clown and damsel fish.  Is $200 about right?  Kind of High?
Kind of low?  Basically good deal or bad??

Thanks for any help!

Mike
From: mch0@harvey.gte.com (Michael Hatz)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: FAQ Request I missed it
Date: 14 Sep 92 17:27:41 GMT
Organization: GTE Laboratories

I missed the last FAQ and my server won't let me go back and get it so
to speak.  Can someone please mail to me here or at
hatzm%venus.dnet@gte.com?  Thanks.

Mike
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria,sci.aquaria
From: sjlt@leland.Stanford.EDU (Sean Lev-Tov)
Subject: Re: Rare & exotic plecos
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 92 02:01:28 GMT

In article <1992Sep9.010153.12695@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu> cpbuehrer@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu writes:
>I just bought a magazine that had an article about rare and exotic plecos.

What magazine is it?  I'd like to take a look.  Thanks.

Sean



Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel)
Subject: Re: wet dry pumps
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 23:22:50 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division

In article <1992Sep14.222311.20642@unislc.uucp> livings@unislc.uucp (Ross Livingston) writes:
>Howard Rebel (howardr@col.hp.com) wrote:
>
>: I question the value of using a wet/dry with fresh water tanks.  Trickle 
>: filters are useful in providing oxygen to the bio filter where the water 
>: has a low oxygen saturation level (either very warm, marine or both).  
>: If as I recall lake Tanginyka is not a very warm lake the trickle filter
>: MAY be a uneeded complication. (if these fish live in 90 degree water
>: please disregard this posting !)
>
>They like water to be between 24C and 26C (75-77 F).  I was under the
>impression that a w/d is NECESSARY for a marine tank yet still VERY
>USEFUL for a FW tank.  Does anyone else have opinions here?  Am I just
>doing all this work for nothing, or will the trickle still help a LOT?

If I recall water's ability to hold oxygen is still good at 77F.  What is
the use of adding oxygen during the bio filtration process if there is
enough to start with ?  If I am wrong about your need for a TF I would
be interested in knowing about it.  

It is interesting to note that some marine types that have purchased
foam fractioners (protine skimmers) are unhooking their trickle filters 
and using just the skimmers.  Most if not all of these people have live 
rock in their tanks.  The skimmers take out what is known as DOC'c or 
disolved organic carbons which (I think) is a result of the fish waste 
breaking down.  It seems that the skimmers reduce the bio filtration load 
to where the bacteria on the live rock can handle it.

I think that fresh water tanks should take the same aproach, remove
the waste as early as possible to reduce the bio filtration load.

>Will these work in a non-pressure system, such as a prefilter, which is
>powered only by gravity, or just in canister type filters?

I use paper on all my sump based filters.  The pumps are all maxi-jet
1000's, the lowest head is about 14 inches and the tallest is between
3 and four feet.

>: You will end up cleaning the mechanical filter a lot more often then
>: you would a commercial unit.  You will be reducing the load on the
>: bio filter and even more importantly reducing the amount of nitrates 
>: and other polutants that the breakdown of the wastes WOULD have caused
>: had you not removed them.  This works esp well when a tank does not use
>: a gravel bottom since any waste not sucked up by the filter can be
>: siphoned off the tank bottom.
>
>Yea, it makes sense to get rid of the crap manually so the bio-filter doesn't
>have to deal with it.

Remember that this is still only MHO.
-- 
Howard Rebel hpcsos.col.hp.com 

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: jengagne@next03cville.wam.umd.edu (Jenny Lynne Gagne)
Subject: [F] Frogs
Keywords: Warning!
Reply-To: Jurassic Park as movie
Organization: Workstations at Maryland, University of Maryland, College Park
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 19:42:34 GMT

In article <4ehRkHK00WB6RARoxL@andrew.cmu.edu>  writes:
> 
> Is there anyone out there in netland who knows anything about frogs?  My
> brother was given two frogs about a year ago, and has kept them in a 10g
> tank.  The tank wasn't heated, and he only had an undergravel filter
> running.
> The frogs are a dark green on top, with a greenish-yellow belly.  One is
> approx. 5 1/2" (mouth to foot), and the other is about 3".  I don't know
> what they are at all, but I was told that they could be African frogs. 
> I'm asking because I want to move them into my 55g tank, and I don't
> want to kill them.
> If there is anyone who could tell me what they are, or a better idea of
> what they are, I would appreciate it.  Also, I would like to know what
> other fish I could keep in the tank with them, and what temperature they
> would be best suited for.  Thanks in advance.
> 
> Chris Lehr  cl2s@andrew.cmu.edu

Look out...I don't know exactly what kind of frogs you have, but even a  
silver dollar sized frog we had would eat feeder goldfish and could even  
eat mice.  I don't know if they'll actually hunt your fishes...maybe  
someone else has more experience with this.

jengagne.wam.umd.edu
From: putzolu@toadflax.cs.ucdavis.edu (David Putzolu)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Lateral Line Erosion & Grounding
Keywords: Grounding
Date: 9 Sep 92 00:50:13 GMT
Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of California, Davis

In article <1992Sep08.192135.20849@bnr.ca> oste@crchh79.BNR.CA (Greg Osterhout) writes:
>I have never been able to keep tangs for extended periods.  They always
>seem to get Lateral Line Disease.  There have been several theories as
>to the cause of this condition.  The latest theory is induced voltages.
>
>I have seen a new product in FAMA by Sandpoint that is supposed to ground
>the tank and cure Lateral Line erosion.  The product is called
>Sandpoints Solution Ground and the cost is ~$45.  Has anyone heard anything
>about this product?  It has a titanium tip to prevent metal corrosion.  But
>it seems to me that a bacterial slime would cover the tip and prevent the
>ground from working.  Any opinions on this.

Speaking of lateral line disease - what is it? I've got a Tang in
my tank, and plenty of electrical stuff, so I worry. My tang is doing
perfectly well, but his lateral line does seem more visible than it
used to. What does lateral line disease look like, what are the 
symptoms, etc., and is it enough to run a wire to a ground to defeat
and worry about it?

Thanks!

>
>Greg

David

| David M. A. Putzolu               | putzolu@cs.ucdavis.edu              |
| Senior Undergraduate              | op disclaimer(opinion : ptr mine)   |
| Computer Science and Psychology   |      Money? Who needs money?        |
| University of California at Davis |          I've got fish!             |
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:7370 alt.aquaria:4992
From: bjkramer@remus.rutgers.edu (Brian Kramer)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: wet dry pumps
Keywords: wet dry pump water test
Date: 16 Sep 92 02:28:48 GMT
Followup-To: rec.aquaria
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

I've got a question from a friend.  What's the best wet-dry filter
for the price?  In terms of brand name.  He will be setting up a 29
gallon salt aquariam with a skilter 250.

Thanks in advance.
From: mark@trident.datasys.swri.edu (Mark D. Collier)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Protein skimmer design [M][F]
Date: 11 Sep 92 19:44:12 GMT
Organization: Southwest Research Institute, San Antonio, Texas

Thanks to all those providing input ideas for a protein skimmer. I feel
like I have enough info to be dangerous.

Taking into account the materials I already have and which are not in
full use (a slew of power heads), I am considering a simple venturi
design as as illustrated below:

                       +------+
                       |      |
                       +------+
                         |  |
                         |  |
                      +--------+
                      |        ==+
                      |        | |
                      |        | | Valved output
                      |        |
                      |        |
              +---+   |        |
  1 or 2      |   |===|        |
  802 power   +---+   |        |
  heads for   +---+   |        |
  water input |   |===|        |
              +---+   +--------+

The power heads lay sideways to reduce the level of water required in
the sump. They enter to the side to create the required swirling. I
will use the standard hoses for venturi input. Output will be directed
toward the input for the externally plumbed sump pump.

This design will be dirt cheap because I already have the power heads.
All I will need is the container or pipes and some inexpensive plumbing
parts.

The question is - will it work? One opinion is that the power head(s)
may not be powerful enough to create the required swirling affect. I also
don't know if they will push the level of the water to the required
height. I don't think that the container needs to be all that tall, be-
cause I have seen some commercial designs (Oceanic) that are actually
wider than they are tall (and I have seen them produce some really foul
looking gunk). An alternative would be to place the powerheads at the top
(which may be better anyway), but then I would have to have a higher sump
level or put the whole thing in my tank.

Any input is appreciated. I plan to run a simple test this weekend by 
building a test container out of an old round plastic pitcher to see
what kind of current and level the power head can sustain. I know that
I have placed them in pitchers before when I am fighting to get em'
started and the water agitation in the pitcher is really strong.

P.S. I am still considering a concurrent design, but don't really want
to buy the air pumps.


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mark D. Collier                      Southwest Research Institute
Senior Research Analyst              Automation and Data Systems Division
Voice: (512) 522-3437                Data Systems Department
FAX:   (512) 522-5499                Software Engineering Section
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: Nigel Jessup <NJessup@compserv.amc.edu.au>
Subject: Salmon Catfish
X-Xxdate: Tue, 15 Sep 92 20:42:40 GMT
Organization: Australian Maritime College
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d9
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 92 02:39:51 GMT

	My wife has just set up a 170 litre fresh water tropical tank with
several varietys of fish. I was allowed to pick a couple to call my own,
one of wich was a 4" (at the moment) Salmon Catfish. 
	After scouring the local librarys we have come up with very little info
on this fish. All we know at this stage is that it's an Australian native
and can grow quite large, it is shark like in appearance with long
whiskers at the underside of the mouth area. If anyone has any infomation
on this fish please email me. 

Regards Nigel
#########################
Nigel Jessup
NJessup@compserv.amc.edu.au
Australian Maritime College
Launceston Tasmania 7248
#########################
From: thk@tyres.asd.sgi.com (Tom Kong)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: corals fighting.
Date: 10 Sep 92 18:22:47 GMT
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc.

I couldn't resist and bought a small goniopora (2" diameter skeleton)
almost a week ago despite all the net and literature warning about how 
hard it is to keep it alive.

I noticed my first problem today.  Even though the goniopora and
the elegance coral are almost a foot apart, when both fully
inflate, they touch each other.  I noticed rapid retraction of
the goniopora polyps when their tenticles are stuck to those of
the elegance.  The elegance doesn't seem to mind about, but
the goniopora polyps that were stung certainly stay retracted
for a while.

My question.  Anyone has an idea of relative aggressiveness between
the corals?

Looks like I have a little problem here as it is hard to prevent
the corals from touching each other when they fully expand.

Also, question to those who managed to keep goniopora alive,
what is your secret?

/tom
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel)
Subject: Re: wet dry pumps
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 18:55:36 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division
Keywords: wet dry pump water test

Ross,

It may be a little late in the process and I may be a bit radical when
it comes to filtration but..

I question the value of using a wet/dry with fresh water tanks.  Trickle 
filters are useful in providing oxygen to the bio filter where the water 
has a low oxygen saturation level (either very warm, marine or both).  
If as I recall lake Tanginyka is not a very warm lake the trickle filter
MAY be a uneeded complication. (if these fish live in 90 degree water
please disregard this posting !)

While it possible to stock any tank to the point that the bio filter 
can not convert all the wastes (due to a shortage of oxygen) one can 
question the wisdom of stocking a tank to this level as population 
pressures and the like need to be considered.

Since your are building your own filtration system...

Make it easy to service.

Use a mechanical stage that traps the solids.  Floss and foam will
pass solids, I suggest paper such as used in diatom cartridges.

You will end up cleaning the mechanical filter a lot more often then
you would a commercial unit.  You will be reducing the load on the
bio filter and even more importantly reducing the amount of nitrates 
and other polutants that the breakdown of the wastes WOULD have caused
had you not removed them.  This works esp well when a tank does not use
a gravel bottom since any waste not sucked up by the filter can be
siphoned off the tank bottom.


In article <1992Sep14.171319.22844@unislc.uucp> livings@unislc.uucp (Ross Livingston) writes:
>Howdy all:
>
>I've finalized most of my plans for my DIY w/d and only a few
>questions remain.  After I'm done making this thing, I'll post an
>explaination of what I did, how much it cost, etc.  First, the situation:
>
>I have a 55g [F] that I'm setting up.  The w/d will be based on a 10g
>tank with an acrylic trickle tower.  I'll probably buy 4 gallons (15 l) of
>bio-pack unless I get any better suggestions.  The w/d will house a
>150 or 200 W heater and will be fed (water) by a pre-filter (connected by
>1" (2.54 cm) diameter pvc) which will be fed by a 1" siphon/skimmer box
>combo.  Oh yea, I'll be getting Africans, mostly smaller varieties of
>Tanginykans (sp?) and will have no live plants and maybe no gravel.




-- 
Howard Rebel hpcsos.col.hp.com 

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: ron@minnow.sp.unisys.com (Ron Burns)
Subject: [M][R]   Building the reef, Live rock and light
Followup-To: rec.aquaria
Reply-To: ron@minnow.UUCP (Ron Burns)
Organization: Unisys Corporation
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 15:56:52 GMT

Time is closing in to the live rock order for the 100 gallon reef tank.

I have some concerns.  First, I am still debating over the VHO/MH light
question.  I also wonder about this situation:

The live rock comes in.  It is rinsed and cleaned in saltwater.  It is
stacked up in the tank.  What about the algae and critters who get stuck
on the bottom-most pieces of the reef.  They recieve comparativly little
light.  Clam type creatures may get several pounds of rock piled on their
shells.  Is this the kind of thing you just have to do for yourself to find
out what happens?  
Never having had to deal with large amounts of LR, will I be able to 
recognize the more interesting animals' locations, or will I need to find
them after the fact, and rearrange the rock to expose them for viewing?

Thanks for your help and thoughts and ideas.
-Ron

-- 
Ron Burns              
Unisys Corporation                                      ...!rosevax!minnow!ron
Phone:(612)635-6927                           minnow%ron@rosevax.rosemount.com