HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: rossi@gvlf9-q.gvl.unisys.com (Pete Rossi)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: New inexpensive pre-oiler
Date: 5 Oct 92 14:22:53 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Paramax Systems Corp (A Unisys Company), Great Valley Labs, PA

>In article <1992Oct3.132234.26545@ulysses.att.com> esc@ulysses.att.com (E. Steve Crandall) writes:
>
>   Has anyone had experience with the "Safety-Start" pre-oiler from
>   Decision Makers?
>
>   Basically it is a small inexpensive ($60) box that delays fuel and
>   spark for 5 seconds allow the engine to be turned over by the starter
>   motor with the oil pump lubricating the engine.  At five seconds fuel
>   and spark are turned on and the engine kicks over.  It has a temperature
>   sensor that allows the immediate starting if the engine is already warm.

I can't imagine WHY anyone would EVER want to make an engine HARDER to
start! ?????  On purpose!!  What does that accomplish?  

I can only go by my experience.  My car has always been easy to start.  I
rarely have to hit the starter for more than 1/2 a second or so..  Even on
the coldest winter mornings.   Pump the gas a few times to set the choke
and hit the key and bang it's running..   The oil light goes out IMMEDIATELY.

Cranking for 5 seconds can only accomplish 2 things.  Kill the battery on
cold winter mornings and put extra wear on the starter.  After all, how
much oil can the oil pump move at cranking speeds anyway?

I still am not sure how much of a problem this startup wear really is.  I
think the whole thing is blown WAY out of proportion.  Seems to me that
there should still be a thin film of oil after a typical overnight sitting,
and we are only talking about a few seconds.  It's not like we are talking
completely 100% clean/dry metal.

=================================================================
Pete Rossi - WA3NNA                  rossi@gvl.unisys.com

Paramax Systems Corporation - a Unisys Company
Electronic Systems - Valley Forge Labs - Paoli, Pennsylvania
=================================================================
From: michaeln@hpcvnb.CV.HP.COM (Mike_Nason)
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 92 02:57:20 PDT
Subject: Re: Which Air Compressor?
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Corvallis, Oregon
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

   Hello, IMHO if you plan on painting with automotive enamel paints your
going to want atleast a 5 hp compressor. If you get a smaller one your going
to want a larger tank. It will let the air volume catch up alittle as you
move around. 
   Painting enamel takes about 10 cfm at 60-80 psi. Most nozzels for painting
enamel are set up to use about 10 cfm. the nozzels for lacquer are usually
5 cfm or so. 
    Another thing is, if you use a smaller compressor, it runs all the time
and condenses more water in the air that you have to trap out or get in 
the paint. 
    As for most tools, 7 to 8 cfm should be plenty. But I can remember running
out of air tring to run an air board on a 3 hp compressor. 
    again, IMHO, If I had the room and was going to set something up to due
quite a bit of body work and paint I'd go with a 5 hp compressor and a 60 -
80 gallon tank. It is enough to do most anything an I think you can find new
one for around $600. 
   For bare minimum go no lower than a 3 hp!. Good luck. Mike Nason
=====================================================
Disclaimer. My employer hasn't a clue as to what I do!
From: rtoth@aramis.rutgers.edu (Robert Toth)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Car storage
Date: 30 Sep 92 15:58:27 GMT
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

In the latest issue of High Performace Mopar, November 1992 there is
an article on how to store your baby properly.  This article gives you
all the info you are looking for.

Hope this helps out a little.


...rob
-- 

 -----------------------------------------------------------------------
|                                    |Rutgers University                |
|  rtoth@athos.rutgers.edu           |Laboratory for Computer           |
|                                    |Science Research                  |
|	                             |Telecommunications Technician     |
|                                    |CoRE Building                     |
|                                    |Busch Campus                      |
|     MOPAR PERFORMANCE              |908 932 2260                      |
|      90 DAYTONA ES V6              |                                  |
|				     |					|
|____________________________________|__________________________________|

 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: wilson@schaefer.math.wisc.edu (Bob Wilson)
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure Relief Valve ?
Keywords: oil pressure
Organization: Univ. of Wisconsin Dept. of Mathematics
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 92 00:49:51 GMT

tuomasp@mits.mdata.fi (Tuomas Paasiala) writes:


>>        What does the oil pressure relief valve do?
>>        Can it cause low oil pressure at idle?


>It prevents too high oil pressure at high rpm. No, it won't cause
>low pressure at idle.

>--
>-------------------------------------------------------------------
>| Tuomas Paasiala        | Never believe what computer tells you. | 
>| Tuomasp@mits.mdata.fi  |        Use RN to Read News.            |
>-------------------------------------------------------------------
It sure CAN affect idle oil pressure, if it is not working right!
The valve is designed to regulate the maximum pressure so that thick
oil or high revs won't generate so much pressure as to blow gaskets
and other nasty effects: Yes, you can have too much oil pressure. The
valve usually is a small piston formed from sheet metal which rides in
a cylindrical hole and containing a spring. As the oil presure rises
past some point the piston moves far enough to uncover a hole which
lets some of the oil coming out of the pump dump back into the oil pan
rather than going through the filter and the engine. (This is entirely
separate from a valve which bypasses a plugged filter!) It is not all
that unusual for the piston to get stuck in the bore. If it gets stuck
in the closed position then the valve simply doesn't work and the oil
pressure can go too high. If it gets stuck in a partially or fully
open position then oil bypasses the engine and the pressure both on a
gauge and at the bearings may be very low, more so at low rpm where
there is less volume being delivered by the pump. If the pump spring
loses its tension, another fairly common ailment, then the high rpm
pressure may be lowered but this one won't likely affect idle.
Every decent engine manual I have seen has specs for the spring
tension, and the free movement of the valve piston and the proper
tension of the spring ought always to be checked when the pump is
accessible.
Bob Wilson
wilson@math.wisc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks)
Subject: Re: Cold = Super braking power??
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 14:03:08 GMT

In article <BvD2MM.6In@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu> msingh@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (The Supreme Commander) writes:
>
>I have been told by a few people that this problem is common in
>Mazda's. Apparently their brake system is very sensitive to moisture.
>
The orginal equipment brakes and clutch on my Honda were also sensitive to
moisture. Both would get grabby/sensitive in damp weather.

Ted Brooks
From: chrisw@hpscit.sc.hp.com (Chris Wiles)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Were are the springs ?
Date: 2 Oct 92 19:37:58 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Clara, CA



	They use torsion bars instead of springs, basically a long
steel rod is fixed into a crossmember with the other end being
attached to the control arm, thus the suspension try's to twist
the rod and that provides suspension travel

understand?

chris wiles
it's kinda hard to explain without actual showing you on the car.
//
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: wouk@alumni.cs.colorado.edu (Arthur Wouk)
Subject: Re: Ethnol - good or bad??
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1992 17:45:51 GMT

In article <fagundes.718051101@pv1649.vincent.iastate.edu> fagundes@iastate.edu (Alex Fagundes) writes:
>Hi,
>  A friend of mine has an 87 buick and he never uses gas with ethnol;  he
>says that it harms that engine.  I have a 76 maverick and I stick the cheapest
>gas I can find.  Is my friend correct, is ethnol harmfull to some engines??
>thanks a lot....
>
it may vary from make to make. my 1989 volvo owners manual is opposed
to the use of ethanol in my vehicle. on my 1977 datsun 810 i had fuel
pump problems after extended use of ethanol mixture. i now only use
the mbte mixtures also available here. your mileage may vary.

(also, ethanol is not resource effective: it takes more input of
petroleum product to make a given amount of ethanol than the 
amount of petroleum product it displaces in the mixtures sold. also
it has worse  pollution effects than the mbte alternative.)
-- 
arthur wouk 
internet: wouk@alumni.cs.colorado.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: 351M
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 28 Sep 92 21:12:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> Now my question is, how did all that water get in my oil pan.  If it
-> is a cracked block, of which there is no evidence of YET,  how much

 The Cleveland/M series use a sheet metal cover plate over the timing
chain, which forms part of the back of the water pump housing.  I've
seen some of those plates severely rusted; yours might have rusted
through.


-> Also will there be any advatages to getting a 400M.

 If you find one in good working order for less than it'd cost to fix
the 351M, go for it.  Otherwise I wouldn't worry about it.
From: rodder@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Jon D. Rodder)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: 89 Jeep Wrangler slave cylinder
Date: 2 Oct 92 00:00:32 GMT
Reply-To: rodder@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Jon D. Rodder)
Distribution: na
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin, Austin TX
Originator: rodder@minnie.cc.utexas.edu

I've got an 89 Jeep Wranlger, 258 (4.2l), 5spd, 57,000k miles.
The slave cylinder appears to have died on it (have to refill
the master cyl every other day, and there is fluid dripping from
the bellhousing).  Has anyone here replaced one of these before?
It appears that I've got to completely drop the tranny and transfer
case, and that the "benchpress" method of tranny removal/installation
I use for my mazdas and dastuns isn't going to work.  Does anyone
have any suggestions on how to go about pulling it?
Anything to watch for, any special tricks (like on a 2wd datsun 720 you
had to rotate the tranny 90 degrees to clear a frame crossmember), any
special tools?  How long should it take me without the convenience of
a lift?  Or am I better off paying a shop $200 to R&R the trans/tcase
for me?
 
Thanx...

-- 
Jon D. Rodder
rodder@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu

67 Camaro RS - 350/4spd
79 Rx-7 - 12A/Holley 4bbl
89 Jeep Wrangler - 258/PIECE OF JUNK!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: gold@imp.sim.es.com (Bruce Gold)
Subject: Re: Question about drum brake cylinder...
Organization: Evans & Sutherland Computer Corp., Salt Lake City, UT
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 22:15:28 GMT

In article <DAVET.92Sep22102205@kaos.ksr.com>, (D*ve Teihhlt*) writes:
|> 
|>     If you don't want to do it yourself, find a good garage (ask friends,
|>     classmates, the drunk on the corner, anybody, but stay away from 
|>     franchise operations and Sears. (especially in Calif!)

Although I agree with the general thrust of this paragraph, it seems unfair to
blame Sears of California just because of the recent expose'.  Sears auto shops
in California operate just like every other Sears auto repair facility I had
brushes with over the decades.  And Sears is just as 'good' as any other shop
where the owner of the shop is not the guy working on your car.  Proprietors
seem to care a lot whether a customer is happy.  Well, even that is subject to
personal and to daily variations.  DYI!
-- 
				Bruce Gold
				   Utah
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 01:36:39 EDT
From: <QXF1@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Seal for gas leak?

I got a leak somewhere on my 82 Civic fuel filler pipe beause of rust.  I
was asked ~$120 by dealer for replacement, about 1/6 of the total car price.
I am wondering whether there is any kind of epoxy seal which is safe to gas
for problem like this.  Help me netters.  The only thing dealers interested
is to get money out of my pocket.  I gotta no way to turn to except you folks.

Ching --> :-)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dbowman@warp (Don A. Bowman)
Subject: Re: Engine cranks but not running
Organization: University of Waterloo
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 20:43:28 GMT

antonio.cruz (newark@cbnewsm.cb.att.com) wrote:
: I towed a 1974 Buick Regal with a 350 (H) Buick engine home last week.
: The engine cranks after I installed a battery. The car was in this 
: lady's garage for 4 years without being turned on or driven.
: I modified the old points & condensor system with a '77 HEI system.
: I changed the plugs and oil. The timing is on the specs. The old
: oil had smell of gas and was overfilled. The engine cranks but doesn't run.
: It has spark. And we used quick starter fluid. Back fired once or twice.
: 
: Any ideas what is wrong. The lady drove it in the garage with no
: problems. It has 100K miles. 
: 

How is the compression?
Is there gas in the carburetor?
Plugged fuels traps?
Choke stuck open/closed?
Throttle linkages seized?
Plugged carb jet?

--
Don Bowman                (519) 744-6154     dbowman@zeus.uwaterloo.ca
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: gold@imp.sim.es.com (Bruce Gold)
Subject: Re: Four Wheel Drive Vehicles
Organization: Evans & Sutherland Computer Corp., Salt Lake City, UT
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 23:26:39 GMT

In talking to about a dozen S-10 and S-15 Blazer/Jimmy/truck owners and in
shopping for one for myself, I observed that the rear main seals on both the
trans and the engine ALMOST always fail somewhere between 50K and 100K miles.
Also, vehicles with the big V6 tend to have premature transmission deaths.
The sheet metal is thin enough that the insides of the truck beds are always
bashed up, but body work is also trivial for the same reason.  Paint quality
varied all over.  Despite all these, I got a GMC S-15 with 103K that was 2 years
old.  (That's a LOT of driving!)  It has no leakage, the oil stays clean between
changes, but the trans makes a slight swishing sound in 5th gear.  That's
probably where it was for 102 of those 103 thousand miles.  And it get 30mpg on
the open road.  I just remember the mantra, "This is NOT a truck.  It is a TOY
truck.  Play GENTly..."  It's okay for what it is.
-- 
				Bruce Gold
				   Utah
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: louise@pravda.cc.gatech.edu (FA) 
Subject: Re: Carb questions
Reply-To: louise@pravda.cc.gatech.edu (Louise Penberthy) 
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology 
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 21:43:52 GMT

In article <lcejfiINNonq@utkcs2.cs.utk.edu> bhhardy@cs.utk.edu (Barbara Hardy) writes:
>Hi all -
>
>I've got an 85 Dodge Omni with 112K (really!) and a carb that I
>rebuilt recently.
>[.....]
>to go for a new one). Anyway, I was shocked to find out that my carb,
>a 5660 Holley, double barrel, (6550..? I'd have to look again) would

On an '85, you have a Holley 6520.  Pre-84, they used a 5220,
which is the same except that it lacks the oxygen sensor (as I
recall, that's the difference).

-- Louise Penberthy

Louise Penberthy                |  "A student came to me with a desire to know
College of Computing/ Georgia   |   the time, and I told her how to make a 
Tech/ Atlanta, GA 30332         |   watch."
louise@pravda.cc.gatech.edu     |        -- Chris, NEXP:Northwest Passages
From: scol@scottsdale.az.stratus.com (Scott Colbath)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Changing plugs and wires on the Aerostar from Hell.
Date: 29 Sep 92 21:20:48 GMT


Anyone out there ever changed the spark plugs and wires on a 3.0 liter  
Aerostar? Mine is a 1989. I was going to the other day until I had a look at  
the job. Any clues to make the wiring nightmare easier would be appreciated.  
This vehicle has no room to work on or around it. Looks like a real rotten,  
all-day job to me =8^( 
--
**********************************************************
Scott Colbath
Stratus Computer
Phoenix, Az.  (602)852-3106
Internet:scott_colbath@az.stratus.com
**********************************************************
From: ems@michael.apple.com (E. Michael Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: F350 vs F250 front springs.  Interchangable?
Date: 7 Oct 92 01:17:38 GMT
Organization: Apple Computer Inc.


Synopsis:  Are F350 and F250 springs the same 'size' and interchangeble?

After much testing, talking with other folks with F350's, talking
with mechanics about springs, and carrying many different loads,
I've come to some conclusions about my F350 (4x4, crew cab) springs...

It seems pretty clear that I've got some kind of extra heavy spring
package on the truck.  No one can find the spring code listed anywhere
(it's a '86) but it sits just like a friends Diesel F350 Crew Cab 4x4
that does have a heavy spring set.  (i.e. the front leaves are straight
out flat when sitting, not 'drooping downward' at the ends like those
on F250 4x4s or some F350 4x4s).

This matches what history I know of the truck (i.e. it had a 5th wheel
hitch in it at some time before I bought it and has the heavy duty oil
cooler and other things that come on the 'towing and heavy springs
package' in the Ford sales matter.) He, too, complains of a liver and
spleen trying to bounce their way into the lungs on freeway expansion
cracks ...

So, I think I know how to make it ride 'better' ...

Does anyone know if F350 4x4 front leaf springs and F250 4x4 front leaf
springs are the same physical size?  I.e. can I get a pair of 'light'
F250 springs from my local 'junk yard' and bolt 'em in?  I know I'll
lose some of my load capacity, but I had 1.5 tons of sod in the
sucker last week and the rear springs were only touching the 'overload'
spring on one end ... the front didn't seem to have moved at all..

I could lose a ton of load capacity and not notice ...  It did ride almost
good enough on the freeway, though.  (But not quite good enough ...)

(I know that newer Ford trucks are going to coil springs in front, but
there are still a bunch of old F250s that used leafs in 4x4 ...)

Second question.  If the dimentions are the same, are the springs of
the same spring code?  That is, did Ford just make like, 3 kinds of
springs and put them interchangably the F250 & F350 to make different
'models' of truck.  (i.e. is the F250 'heavy duty' spring package the
same as the F350 standard springs or even the F350 heavy duty?)

Can I look up a spring code from a junker F250 and find it listed
as being the one for an F350 too?  I'd love to be able to decide
what spring code I wanted prior to going to the junk yard ... And
I'd hate to get a set of F250 springs home only to find out I now
owned TWO sets of heavy springs 'cause that F250 had a heavy duty kit...

If anyone knows how I can find out these things, I'd appreciate a letter,
even if you don't know the answer...  I'm willing to do the leg work,
I just don't know quite were to go look... The local dealer wasn't
exactly helpfull...

-- 

E. Michael Smith  ems@apple.COM

'Whatever you can do, or dream you can, begin it.  Boldness has
 genius, power and magic in it.'  -  Goethe

I am not responsible nor is anyone else.  Everything is disclaimed.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jrp@bohra.cpg.oz.au (John Pitman)
Subject: brakes affect idle 
Keywords: stop lights
Organization: Computer Power Software
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 04:09:16 GMT

Re msg from hacker on '120 watt stop lights' ??? thats as bright as your average
set of headlights (usually 37.5/50 in a twin filament)!!!!! Ours are usually
21 watt each maximum. 120 would be a distinct worry. sounds more like a vacuum
leak in the power brake somewhere to me.
jp
From: vbreault@rinhp750.gmr.com (Val Breault)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure Relief Valve ?
Date: 28 Sep 92 13:03:26 GMT
Organization: General Motors Research Labs
In-reply-to: rkr@spl1.spl.loral.com's message of 26 Sep 92 16:15:52 GMT

In article <1992Sep26.161552.26984@wdl.loral.com> rkr@spl1.spl.loral.com (Robert K. Rouse) writes:

     Experts,
Not really an "expert" Bob, but I'll comment anyhow

	   What does the oil pressure relief valve do?
It's a waste valve that limits the maximum oil pressure to prevent
the damage that can be caused by excess oil pressure. (ruptured
oil filter, broken oil pump drive shaft...)

	   Can it cause low oil pressure at idle?
Yes, if it is stuck "open".   (annecdote) I once had an old Pontiac
with a gazillion miles on the odometer.  It was a good runner but
one day it VERY suddenly lost oil pressure at low speeds.  Thinking
it was a spun bearing or somesuch, I immediatly took it off the road
and got a pack-o-bearings with "the works" (gaskets, seals, oil pump...)
When I tore it down I couldn't find a thing wrong with the bottom
end.  The bearings were all well within tolerance.....  Some additional
prying uncovered the root cause.  The timing gear on that car was
cast aluminum with molded nylon teeth.  The teeth had begun to
break up and a piece had found it's way into the oil pressure relief
valve, jamming it open.

-val-


--

Val Breault - vbreault@gmr.com - N8OEF
General Motors Research and Environmental Staff.
The opinions expressed by the author do not necessarily reflect 
those of the GMRES or the General Motors Corporation.