HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: tse@ra.nrl.navy.mil (Anthony Tse)
Subject: Re: [M] Salt mixes
Organization: Naval Research Lab, Washington, DC
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 14:25:10 GMT

>Patti Beadles (patti@hosehead.intel.com) wrote:
>: Hmm ... milky appearance?  How long are you letting the water stand
>: before using it?  Except in rare emergencies, I always let my water
>: age overnight at a minimum, and usually more.  From everything I've
>: read and heard, freshly mixed saltwater should never be put into an
>: aquarium.

    I've done it many times, no negative effect.  When I really
need to get my water change done, I make my KATI/ANI water, put
in the salt, stick a power head in and let it suck all the salt
through (fastest way to dissolve salt I know of), dump into
tank.  I use Tropical Marin, doesn't seem to have a dissolving
problem.

    My normal way of doing water change is make KATI/ANI water
and put in salt and power head the first night, do the water
change the next.  Consider it takes an hour to make 10g of water,
it's much easier on me this way.

-Anthony
From: assana@polkadot.Eng.Sun.COM (assana)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: When will my pregnant molly give birth?
Followup-To: assana@polkadot.eng.sun.com
Date: 21 Jan 1993 19:17:48 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc., Mountain View, CA
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: polkadot

In article <29927@oasys.dt.navy.mil> kilpat@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Andrew Kilpatrick) writes:

>I have one female mollie and five males.  They were all born
>together from the one molly I bought, God rest her soul, last
>September.
>Anyway, the female has looked sort of pregnant for the last
>two months.  And I have a nursery I would like to put her in
>but I am not sure when I should.
>Is there any indication of when she is going to give birth.
>Like I said she has been swelling for a couple of months now.

I have the same question about guppies. My female guppy is now
about 1/2" thick! She's already in a nursury net, but she looks very
unhappy and wants out. Are there signs of being close?

-- 
         ^-^
        /o o\
       ===^===   assana@polkadot.eng.sun.com
          -
From: gs320005@wvnvms.wvnet.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: [F] (F)Sharks !!! ???
Date: 25 Jan 93 20:40:16 EST
Organization: West Virginia Network for Educational Telecomputing

HELLO,

I know a person that has 4 Red Tail Sharks and 3 Rainbow Sharks in a 20 long.
They are about 3 years old and 4" - 5" and he would like some more information
on them.

What should the water conditions be in order to get them to spawn?
What is the best type of food to condition them with?
Do they need a swing in temp to get them ready to spawn?

Thanks,

Neal Benson
From: oleg@Veritas.COM (Oleg Kiselev)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [F] Painted Glassfish off my list!
Date: 26 Jan 93 04:22:30 GMT
Reply-To: oleg@veritas.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Distribution: na
Organization: Killifish Farm on the Hill

scol@scottsdale.az.stratus.com (Scott Colbath) writes:
>for me. When I found out, I called the fish store to find out more and they  
>said that the color fades after about a year.

If the fish survives, that is.  Most of the injected fish die within months.
This may be due to the trauma, or due to the dismal shipping conditions, or
bad fishkeeping, but the consensus information I have gathered over the years
is that they die.

The un-mutilated glass fish (the species name is Chanda ranga) is supposed 
to be a very attractive fish with subtle glowing colours when kept under 
the optimal conditions.
-- 
Don't blame me, I voted Libertarian.

Oleg Kiselev                                             oleg@veritas.com
VERITAS Software                           ...!{apple|uunet}!veritas!oleg
From: mog362w@ccu1.aukuni.ac.nz (Kevin Townend)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Good/Bad Nursery Tank Set Up
Date: 25 Jan 93 23:52:20 GMT
Organization: University of Auckland, New Zealand.

Hi Netters,

I have two pregnant guppies that I am going to put into a 5 - 10 g Nursery
tank until they deliver.

I thought I would put an AquaClear Mini Filter on this tank with a
sponge over the intake (as has been discussed here recently) so the fry
won't be sucked up.

Is this a good setup or will the current still be too strong ?

Comments please !!!!

Ta Muchly 


-- 
 Kevin Townend                         `Originality - The Art Of
                                        Concealing Your Source'
 k.townend@auckland.ac.nz or                        - Franklin P Jones
 mog362w@ccu1.auckland.ac.nz
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:10256 alt.aquaria:6678
From: 01mbmccabe@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: (F) [F] Severums in a community?
Date: 21 Jan 93 16:14:44 GMT
Organization: Ball State University, Muncie, In - Univ. Computing Svc's

> Sorry I should have stated that. [The Severums] are roughly 3 inches in
>length now. I got them when they were babies. Anything that survies past 2
> inches to me is "good sized". Oh one more thing....They did munch on
> my pair of white cloud mountain minnows. Or I assume it was them. The
> others seem to peaceful to have done it. :)

That's all the bigger they get before aggression sets in?  I've read they arre
supposed to be ~6 to 8 inches at full size -- imagine _that_ in a community
tank!  I'd say a pair is definately out of the question!

Anyone have experience with keeping just _one_ severum?  Similar agressiveness
at 3" in length?  Or is a solor-Severum more peaceful?

			-Matt
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: dbs@hprnd.rose.hp.com (Dave Sheehy)
Subject: Re: Mantis Blues
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 19:20:29 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Hewlett-Packard
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.3 PL7]

Brian Schwarz (schwarz@esrican.uucp) wrote:
: My bigger problem, however, is this.  I noticed - about week or
: so ago - many small (approx 5-8mm long and .5-1mm wide) crustacean like
: critters moving around on the live rock after the lights went out.
: 
: Now I have this sick feeling that my mantis has left me with many
: of it's youngin's.  I'm not 100% sure on the mantis ID of these 
: small critters but they are somewhat similar in shape.  They have
: antenae and the tail/body is sort of curved, like that of a
: lobster.

Take heart! I strongly doubt that your mantis shrimp has left you any sort
of living legacy. What you are describing sounds like a small type of
crustacean (Gammarus sp. maybe?) which can often be found in not only reef
tanks but traditional marine tanks as well. They are beneficial in several
ways. Perhaps best of all they are detritus feeders so they are helping reduce
the nutrient load in your reef. I find large numbers of them in the pre-filter
whenever I rinse it. Secondly, they provide food for the other animals in
the reef. As opposed to some of the other people on the net I believe in the
"feed as little as possible" school of thought with regard to fish in a reef.
Forcing the fish to forage for food among the "small critter" population helps
reduce the nutrient load. It also provides a check on the small critter
population (kind of like a real ecosystem ya know :-).

: The disappointment of these realizations has led me to question
: the time and money I've devoted to this hobby.  Sure I have enjoyed every
: minute, but does this mean I have to rid my tank of all the live rock 
: and start again?

Most definitely not. A reef requires attention. Just keep at it and things
will eventually settle down.

: Is there any creature which will feed on these young mantis shrimps 
: (if thats what they are)?

I don't know about this one. I would assume that when anything spawns in a
reef tank most if not all of the spawn or larvae will be consumed by the 
resident filter feeders. I consider it unlikely that any larvae mantis shrimps
would survive and grow up to the adult stage.

: Brian

Dave Sheehy
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: csmith@mpr.ca (Cameron Smith)
Subject: [F] Aqua-scaping - any Ideas?
Organization: MPR Teltech Ltd., Burnaby, B.C., Canada
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 93 15:55:45 GMT


I am attempting to aqua-scape my recently established aquarium.  I have a
10 gallon (20" X 10") tank, UGF.  It is currently populated with 2 Bettas
(male and female), 1 dwarf butterfly cichlid, and a pleco, and am planning
to add some tetras (neon or cardinal, blue (blueberry?) or more SA dwarf
cichlids, or maybe a blue gourami!  As far as plants go I have a Cabomba 
carolineaus (sp?) in the front left corner, and a water fern (Ceratopterious 
thalitrodies (sp?)) in the back right corner.  I thought that I would like 
to place more plants along the left side and across the back.

I thought an Amazon sword might look good in the back center, but don't
really know what else to plant!  Any suggestions?

Also, I would like to know of any short (say, less than 10 cm [4"] in
height) that I could plant (sparsly) in the center to front.

Thanks in advance!
Cameron
-- 
Cameron Smith                    Curiouser and Curiouser!!
MPR Teltech Ltd.
Burnaby B.C.  V5A 4B5
Internet: csmith@mprgate.mpr.ca
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: sonny@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (joseph.j.de rosa)
Subject: Help me identify a fish
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 12:11:57 GMT


I recently went into a pet shop for the first time. I never realized that
fishies could be SO pretty. Anyway, I bought a tank and some fish. 
Everything has been just great for about a month, but I'd like to know a little
more about the fish. 

I bought 4 green "somethings" and a catfish-like thingy. What kind of 
conditions would be best? I'm not sure of the names of the fish, but I'd know
it if I saw it. 

Thanks so much.

--
Joe DeRosa
jderosa@attmail.att.com

;-)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: daf@herky.cs.uiowa.edu (David Forsyth)
Subject: Assorted cichlid questions [F]
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 15:56:13 GMT
Organization: University of Iowa, Iowa City, IA, USA

A minor cichlid problem that may turn major:

I have a hodge-podge of Africans (5 N. Leleupi, 5 J. regani, 2 C. frontosa,
and 4 (1M, 3F) M. Auratus), in a 55 gal.  It wasn't planned quite that
way, but since they were young when I got them, I thought I'd have
a couple of months to get more tanks up and going to separate out incompatibles
and the like.  

My guess was the Auratus would have to be moved eventually, but the rest
have been relatively peaceful to date (i.e., no aggression is focused).

Now, rather sooner than I'd hoped, I have a stunningly gravid N. Leleupi -
full belly, ovipositor showing, the lot.  She's taken up residence in a 
shell, and is making sexy shaking movements at the largest male.

Question: are they now going to slaughter everything in sight?  
Baensch refers to N. Leleupi as peaceful, but he also says they eat live foods
only, so I don't believe that.  Furthermore, he refers to dwarf gouramis
as peaceful, and I have a male dwarf gourami that has to be kept in isolation
(or with a large group of black tetras - present case) because of his vicious
behaviour.

I really don't want to move anything yet, because I'd have to displace 
some other group of fish to do so, as I don't have any more tanks fully up
yet.

Also, will the Auratus need to be moved?  I can see the male, who is beginning
to look ripe, might cause real problems in time.

Finally, I have a pair of Aequidens pulcher; I note they have huge mouths,
and are greedier than anything I've ever owned - do they have a specialized
diet?  so far, Doromin in generous amounts has proven acceptable.  

They seem to have trouble getting Doromin off the surface, as they strike at
it and miss several times.  Is this just "over-excitement", or are they 
better adapted to feeding some other way?

Finally (Sorry, I keep saying that), are they open or cave spawners? I
know Aequidens curviceps is a "flat rock" spawner, so I'd guess this was
true of pulcher as well, but don't know for a fact.  Again, Baensch
says they are peaceful, but implies they are dirty - are they actually
peaceful?


Many thanks

David Forsyth



Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:10380 alt.aquaria:6753
From: bbs.maddox@skipper.tsoft.net (Otto Maddox)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Red Devil purchases
Date: 25 Jan 93 20:12:01 GMT
Organization: The TSoft BBS and Public Access Unix, +1 415 969 8238


Hello there.  I just bought a pair of Red Devils from my local pet store.
I only wanted the male.  I didn't see the female actually becuase she was 
hiding in the back of the tank.  The male is about 10 or 11 inches with a 
good size hump on his head.  He's bright bright Orange with white patches 
in the middle.  The Red Devils I had before were all orange with no 
white.  I'm just wondering if these are the same fish in two different 
colors or maybe two different fish all together.

I like him though and he's happy with his girlfriend.  I'm sure Baby Red 
Devils are on their way.  They're building their house as I type.  The 
pair were $45 which I would have paid for the male alone.  He's a good 
looking fish.  The biggest hump I've ever seen on a fish.  When he swims 
over to the side of the tank to watch me type the hump hits the side of 
the tanks first.  Pretty funny to watch.


Otto Maddox 
[ bbs.maddox@tsoft.net ] [ maddox@west.darkside.com ]
From: colemanr@garnet.berkeley.edu ()
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: kribensis (was Re: cichlids)
Date: 25 Jan 1993 06:26:28 GMT
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
NNTP-Posting-Host: garnet.berkeley.edu

In article <1993Jan19.163042.28057@bnr.ca> dbailey@bcarh673.bnr.ca (Douglas Bailey) writes:
>In article <1jh4b2INNgc2@newsstand.cit.cornell.edu>, John Opsomer <jo14@cornell.edu> writes:
>
>|> Anyway, kribs and rams are good community tank South-American cichlids
>|> that are small (under 2in), colorful and very peaceful.
>
>I thought kribs were African (not Malawian or Tanganyikan, though).
>
>While we're on the subject, what's the current latin name for the fish
>commonly known as kribensis?  I believe they were called Pelvichromis Pulcher
>at one point, but don't know if this is current or not.  Net wisdom?
>
>Doug Bailey
>
Almost right.  It's Pelvicachromis pulcher  (just a few more letters  in the
middle).  And yes, they are African, though they are from West Africa.
Basically, there is a group of closely related species each one occupying
the river mouth/delta of a stream system in West Africa from about 
Equatorial Guinea up to Sierra Leone or so.  The conditions in these
streams makes them much more like Central American cichlids than like
"typical" African cichlids, i.e. they  like soft, acidic water.   Mostly,
they are peaceful, though I have seen a pair defending fry terrorize a
bunch of much larger cichlids!   As far as colour and courtship behaviour,
it's hard to beat kribensis.  
-- Ron
From: johnf@bigwpi.WPI.EDU (John James Fournier)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: What kind of  tank sealer?
Date: 25 Jan 1993 20:36:30 GMT
Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute
NNTP-Posting-Host: bigwpi.wpi.edu

>	I am getting ready to seal the office tank and I was wondering if  
>anyone out there has suggestions on what kind of silicone to use on it. Are  
>there any brands specifically for aquariums? 
>--
Yes, there are two types of silicone on the market.  One of them is 
ammonia based and one is acetic acid based.  Use the acetic acid 
based one.  The ammonia in the other one will invariably kill your fish.
Acetic acid (vinegar)  tends to smell very strong, so, seal the tank in a well 
ventilated area.  Also, make sure that the smell of the acid is gone before 
you fill the tank.  This assures that the silicone has cured enough to hold
the weight of the water you are going to put in the tank.

Good luck
-John



Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: seove@mars.lerc.nasa.gov (ERIC OVERTON)
Subject: Trouble identifying Eel.  Florida or Moray?  Help
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
Distribution: usa
Date: 22 Jan 1993 15:20 EDT  

I'm having a problem identifying the Eel that I have.  It's about 18", [FW]
dark brownish-olive (light underneath) in color, has no pectoral or fins
underneath, and no gill covers.  The book describes this type of Eel as a
female Moray.  I thought it was a Common or Florida Eel.  All of the Anguilla
(sp?)  (European and American) types of common Eels have pectoral fins, fins
underneath and gill covers. I'm not sure what it is.  Could this be a female
Moray?  They say the females spend a lot of time in FW.

Please reply by mail.

Thanks.
From: dxf6@po.CWRU.Edu (Dean Fear)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Building aquariums
Date: 21 Jan 1993 23:04:01 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: dxf6@po.CWRU.Edu (Dean Fear)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, A20076@waccvm.corp.mot.com (Dan Whitaker) says:

>I built a 90 gallon aquarium several years ago. I had no idea what
>kind or thickness of glass to use so I played it safe and used
>half inch plate glass with all the edges sanded smooth.  It ended
>up costing me more than I could have bought it for at that time.
>It was a good experience though. I would like to attempt it again.
>Has anyone any idea about what is the best kind of glass and what
>thickness for different dimensions?  Are there other suitable
>materials available? How about Plexiglass?

A couple of years ago, I attended a seminar at the local aquarium.  They
provide us with information about building your own tanks.  They suggested
using marine plywood for the sides back and bottom, and glass for the
front.  (This reduces the cost greatly.)  The wood is painted with epoxy
paint(?) the stuff they use for swimming pools, (making sure it is non
toxic.)  Joints are sealed with silicone.  

The basic assembly order was:

Build the wooden box
Paint it
Seal it
lay box on back side
place bead of silicone one front edges of the box
place glass on top, clamps are not necessary weight of glass is sufficient
let cure 24 hours 
tank is ready to use!

They assured me that they have built many tanks this way.  

As for the thickness of the glass, I am sure one of the engineers (amateur
or professional) out there can give us some info on the strength of glass 
and water pressure etc.  I would check to see what thickness of glass
comparable commercially made tanks use.



I have never tried this, but it sounds like it will work.  I suspect that
this method is more cost effective the larger the tank.  It probably
wouldn't be worth doing for anything <= 55 gallons.
 
Dean dxf6@po.cwru.edu  Feel free to e-mail or post comments!
>
>
>
From: srrapp@bb1t.monsanto.com
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [M] Questions from a novice
Date: 28 Jan 93 19:06:33 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Monsanto Company, St. Louis, MO

In article <74277@cup.portal.com>, jrh@cup.portal.com (John R Hoffman) writes:
> I'm a novice to aquariums and I've got a few questions for the
> veterans here.
> 
> Two weeks ago I started a 30 gallon salt-water tank.  I've got an
> UGF with 2 Perfecto 200-gph power heads, a Whisper 2 filter, and
> a 150-watt heater.
> 
> I started with 6 damselfish: 2 yellow-tailed blues, 2 dominos
> (3 spot), and 2 four-stripes (black tailed).  All are small sized.
> The dealer recommended feeding them frozen brine-shrimp, about a
> 1/2 inch square, once a day.
> 
> My intention is to just have fish until I become more experienced
> with this.  I'd like to add a tang (yellow or blue), a clown, and
> maybe more once the cycle has completed.  So far everything seems
> to be going okay.  The water is clear and the fish are eating.
> 
> My questions are:
> 
>  - Is that enough food for the fish?  Is that once a day feeding
>    enough?  They seem to be very hungry at feeding time.
NO, feeding only brine shrimp is not sufficient. For the type of fish
you are describing, use Formula 1 and Prime Reef frozen foods as well as
a flake food.
> 
>  - Should I be feeding them any other kinds of food?
See above
> 
>  - If I have to leave for the weekend, what should I do about feeding them?
Nothig, these marine fish can go for many (3-4) days without food and be ok.> 
>  - The dealer recommended 1.020; is that okay or should it be higher?
1.020 is OK but 1.022 is better.
> 
>  - I've got the temperature set to between 76-78; is that okay?
Good> 
>  - With a tang and a clown, would that be too many fish for 30 gallons
>    or could I even have more?
>   This is a reasonable fish load although  especially since you will have
a difficult time adding many new fish with the aggressive damsels and yellow
tang in your tank
>  - One of the yellow-tailed blues seems very aggressive.  Is there
>    anything I can do about this?  Should I get rid of him?
Most damsels have the potential to be very aggressive.  If this aggression
is excessive leading to the deaths of other fish, remove it.> 
>  - The dealer will do free water tests.  Should I really invest in my
>    own testing kit?
No
> 
> Any other recommendations would be appreciated.  Thanks in advance.
> You must get a protein skimmer to generate adequate water quality and reduce
development of the undesirable microalgaes
> John Hoffman
> jrh@cup.portal.com
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Subject: Re: Help locating Lamprichthys Tanganicanus
Keywords: African Killifish
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 02:10:40 GMT

In article <25JAN199316102902@utarlg.uta.edu> c059rbm@utarlg.uta.edu writes:
>	some F1 youngins  or better yet a spawning pair of the 
>	Lamprichthys Tanganicanus. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

In addition to the people listed by Greg, Don Greig (BAKA) was breeding
them.  Another person who might have them is the fromer AKA chairman, Brian
Watters.

The problem with L. tan. is that they react badly to drastic changes in
water chemistry (i.e. they die) and produce really screwey sex ratios:
some people get almost all females, others get almost all males.  

Good luck finding the F1 fish.  I haven't heard of any recent collection
trips to that part of Africa and have not seen any F1 or wild fish in the
auctions.

Your best bet will be to come to the AKA convention in Los Angeles in May.
If these fish will be available anywhere, they will be at the convention.
Be prepared to shell out a lot of money, though.  These fish have all the
traits that make an expensive killifish: they are very attractive, they are
hard to breed, they are rare, and everyone wants them.


-- 
Oleg Kiselev at home			...use the header to find the path
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:10422 alt.aquaria:6787
From: 01mbmccabe@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: [F] Painted Glassfish off my list!
Date: 28 Jan 93 02:23:32 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Ball State University, Muncie, In - Univ. Computing Svc's

> If the fish survives, that is.  Most of the injected fish die within months.
> This may be due to the trauma, or due to the dismal shipping conditions, or
> bad fishkeeping, but the consensus information I have gathered over the years
> is that they die.
> 
> The un-mutilated glass fish (the species name is Chanda ranga) is supposed 
> to be a very attractive fish with subtle glowing colours when kept under 
> the optimal conditions.

Actually, i bought one about a year ago (before I knew anything about
_anything_ about fish) and eventually gave it to my (then-)girlfriend.  It's
still alive.

I'll never buy another one, though, and actively pursuade people away from them
whenevr I happen to be in a fish-store/pet-shop.   DO NOT BUY A PAINTED
GLASS_FISH!!!!!!!!!!!!

				-Matt
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria