HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: A/C manifold gauges question
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 12:26:30 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 A/C manifold gauges are straight pressure gauges connected to a "log"
which lets you connect high side, low side and a third point (a can of
fresh refrigerant, a reclamation unit, etc.). Many gauges have, in addition
to the pressure scale, indicator marks for proper operating pressure ranges
for R-12, R-22 and possibly other refrigerant types.

 As I recall, proper high side pressure for R-12 is 200-240 and low side
down around 20PSI. Here's my cooling system diagnosis matrix:

Low Side    High Side                       Diagnosis
________    _________      ____________________________________________

  ~20         ~220         Normal
  <10         <200         Undercharge
  >30         >200         Overcharge
  >30         <200         Weak compressor, expansion valve stuck open
  <20         >250         High side blockage (drier, expansion valve)

 There's always the possibility of multiple problems and of course the
possibility that this is not exactly right. If the latter concerns you,
there are books.

-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
From: wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii)
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 18:10:32 GMT
Subject: Re: Anybody know how to remove a windshield?
Organization: Hewlett Packard - Boise, ID
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

In <1992Sep4.222403.2700@research.nj.nec.com> Chris BeHanna writes:

>>I have seen a thin wire used to cut the seal between the winshield and the
>>frame. Essentially it was a steel wire that was poked through a small gap 
>>made into the gasket material. The ends where then attached to wooden handles
>>and the repairman and a helper merely pulled the wire around the perimeter of
>>the windshield. They then lifted the now "separated" glass from the frame. POC
>
>	Why not do this one better and use a hot wire (pass current through
>it and heat it up)?
>

Reasons are probably (but I'm no expert):

	1) More apparatus to get in the way
	2) Could burn the operators
	3) Hot wire would be weaker than the cool tempered stuff
	4) If the adhesive is something like silicone, the wire would have
           to be REAL HOT before it would do any good
	5) It's not required


Wes Fujii

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Wes Fujii               *           JAPANESE BUSINESS MOTTO           *
* Boise, Idaho            *        You can buy anything you want        *
* wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com *             with a lot of money             *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
From: pauls@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Paul Stafford)
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 23:24:51 GMT
Subject: Re: OIL: SYNTH -> NATURAL
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Rosa, CA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

 The way I understand it, it's not healthy to switch the other way, because
 the detergents in the synth oil will break loose crud that the non-detergent
 oil left, and your engine will develope athero-sclerosis..., and suffer
 a heart attack.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: scott@psy.uwa.oz.au (Scott Fisher)
Subject: Re: CLUB Story
Organization: University of Western Australia
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1992 01:41:41 GMT

dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)  writes:


>-> Joy is a Jaguar XJ-6 with a flat battery,

> What shape *should* it be?

For the lack of a smiley...is it possible that the US uses a different
term for a battery that has no energy left inside it?...Ahhh...how about
"dead" battery? :-)

For those of you who are interested in the differences between UK/OZ
terms and US ones (relevant to cars) get a Haynes manual and look in the
back, they have a glossary of common terms.  

eg..

UK      US

disks   rotors
_______________________________________________________________________________
Scott Fisher [scott@psy.uwa.oz.au]  PH: Aus [61] Perth (09) Local (380 3272).                
                                                             _--_|\       N
Department of Psychology                                    /      \    W + E
University of Western Australia.                 Perth -->  *_.--._/      S
Nedlands, 6009.  PERTH, W.A.                                      v       

Joy is a Jaguar XJ-6 with a dead battery, a blown oil seal and an unsympathetic wife, 9km outside of a small remote town, 3:15am on a cold wet winters morning.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: David_Cristofoli@mindlink.bc.ca (David Cristofoli)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Jeep YJ
Date: 8 Sep 92 06:21:32 GMT
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada
Distribution: world

I am very interested in purchasing a Jeep YJ soon. I would like some feedback
regarding other peoples personal views on this vehicle. I would like the good
and the bad.

Thanks,

David Cristofoli
Vancouver, BC
From: mjk@icf.hrb.com (Michael J. Kelley)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Dirty oil after change?
Date: 8 Sep 92 03:57:56 GMT
Organization: HRB Systems, Inc.

In article <1992Sep7.173024.14772@informix.com>, neilw@informix.com (Neil Williams) writes:
> My SO recently had her oil changed at a local gas station.  When I went
> with her to pick up her car, I took a look at the dipstick.
> 
> I was very surprised to see that the oil still looked pretty dirty.
> I've never checked her oil immediately after a change before 
> (she has an '89 prelude), but I know that my oil looks clear and
> brand-new after a change.  Unfortunately, I did not check her oil
> prior to the change.
> 
> Questioning the mechanic, he said something to the effect that you
> can never get out all the old oil and it mixes with the new to make
> it look dirty.  I didn't buy his story, and suspect we were charged
> for service not performed, or they didn't change the filter.
> 
> Is the mechanic correct, or am I right to be suspicious?  Oh, previously
> the oil hadn't been changed for about 5k miles.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> --Neil

Next you time you need the oil changed, do it yourself and check it. Then
you'll know wether he was BS'n you or not.


                                                              Mike Kelley
                                                              HRB Systems
                                                              St. College, Pa.

###############################################################################
DoD # 645              Go Nittany Lions !!!             Beat The Bearcats!!!
###############################################################################
From: welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: disc braks again
Keywords: discs vs drums
Date: 12 Sep 92 18:27:11 GMT
Organization: New York State Institute for Sebastian Cabot Studies

In article <1992Sep10.224850.10150@bohra.cpg.oz.au> jrp@bohra.cpg.oz.au (John Pitman) writes:
 The problems with drums were that when the 
>lining material has a high enough co-efficient of friction to be useful
>without power assist,

er, no.  the CF is pretty similar for disk brake pads and drum brake
shoes.  power assist is not needed for drums because there is a force
multiplying servo action designed into drums; such a force multiplier
is not present in disks.

> as the temperature rises, the co-efficient of friction drops way
>off

this is true for conventional friction materials, yes.

> - also persisent heating can permanently ruin the material's ability to
>recover, and it's stuffed. Also as the diameter of the drum goes up, the
>effects of expansion due to heat get worse in terms of distance away from
>the shoe, and no amount of pumping will get the shoe to stay in contact
>and do useful work.

actually, one of the effects of enlarging the drums is that the sensitivity
to expansion is reduced.

>I dont think you will find a drum brake much bigger than 11" anywhere

i've seen a few pre war racers with drums in the 14" and 15" range,
actually.

cheers,
  richard
-- 
richard welty                            518-393-7228
welty@cabot.balltown.cma.com
  ``if you can read this, mario, you're too close''
    -- bumper sticker seen on a CART safety truck
From: eliot@chutney.rtp.dg.com (Topher Eliot)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Cleaning spark plugs
Date: 4 Sep 92 18:22:26 GMT
Reply-To: eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com
Distribution: usa
Organization: Data General Corporation, Research Triangle Park, NC

I just got a JC Whitney catalog, and right there on the inside of the front
cover was what is surely exactly the same spark plug cleaning widget that I
used to own.  I mis-remembered when I said that it ran on 120 V; it runs on
12V.

-- 
Topher Eliot             Data General DG/UX Systems Administration Development
(919) 248-6371      eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com       {backbone}!mcnc!rti!dg-rtp!eliot
Obviously, I speak for myself, not for DG.
misc.consumers.house archivist.  Send mail to house-archive@dg-rtp.dg.com
"I opened an STR on myself and I had to reject it."  -- Paul McGrath
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: Modifying the 'Original' Monster Truck
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 92 07:45:39 GMT

Dave Williams (dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us) wrote:
: 
: -> >My friend owns one of the 'original' monster trucks.  That's
: -> right... >It's a 1984 4WD AMC Eagle station wagon.
: 
: Banks twin turbos, lowered, Guldstrand or Adams prepped suspension,
: shaved R1s on Center Line wheels, backfitted Bosch ABS, tasteful black
: polyurethane paint.
: 
:  That's 6.6 liters, from which we could get an entirely reasonable
: 600bhp in street trim, and still have room in the back to haul vast
: amounts of beer.
: 
: 
:  Of course, some people here have announced they don't believe in
: modifying automobiles...

Actually, the point was about modifying CLASSIC, COLLECTABLE vehicles,
I believe the one in question was a TR-3.  I'm afraid that the '84 Eagle...
um...well, isn't widely collected yet.  Wait 30 years, and it may be
regarded as a classic.  After all, look at the other 80's cars which were
made, few (if any) of which are memorable.
:                            
The TR-3, on the other hand, was memorable & collectable when it was new.

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.
hinzd@picard.med.ge.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mf@dancer.uucp (24241-fusco)
Subject: Re: Toyota Oil Filters Vs. The Others
Organization: On the Road
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 92 10:56:27 GMT

This probably belongs in the FAQ. (-;
I always used Toy filters when I owned them.  I think that
all oil filters now have/claim this mechanism but I found
Toy products far superior and *cheaper* (try Russel Toy 800#).

In article <PFZuqB4w165w@toz.buffalo.ny.us> augy@toz.buffalo.ny.us (Jeffrey Ehlinger) writes:
>
>     Toyata tells me that only genuine Toyata Oil filters have a 
>mechanism inside them that preventsall the oil from draining into the oil 
>pan. This they claim, helps reduce engine wear on start-ups. I was 
>thinking of switching over to Toyota Filters (1986 Chevy Nova) but my car 
>has been running smoothly for 126k on Group 7 Filters.
>     Has anybody used both, and notice a Diffrence. (I have treated the 
>engine w/ Slick 50 at 100k). How does the mechanism work in the filter?
>
>==========================================================================
>** Mail to: Augy@toz.buffalo.ny.us        <<<Tower of Zot>>> Bflo, NY   **
>** The bus came by and I got on, that's when it all began!              **


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rakoczynskij@gtephx.UUCP (Jurek Rakoczynski)
Subject: Re: emissions: electrical -> Nx or electrical ->Hydrocarbs. ?
Organization: AG Communication Systems, Phoenix, Arizona
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 18:29:44 GMT


In article <9209081940.AA01985@rwasic17.aud.alcatel.com>, wpcallah@rwasic17.aud.alcatel.com (William Paul Callahan) writes:
> I remember reading here a rule of thumb, that Nx was related to electrical
> function, and Hydrocarbs related to mixture/carb. Or vice-versa? This is
> the question.
[stuff about access to archive server deleted]

First the nitpicking:  :-)
Oxides of Nitrogen (typically refered to as NOx) consists of nitric
oxide (NO) and nitrogen dioxide (NO2).

There is nothing electrical related unless you're refering to computer
control feedback loop, which I don't think you where talking about. 
Generally Carbon monoxide (CO) and Hydrocarbons (HC) decrease as you
lean out the fuel mixture.  Carbon Dioxide (CO2) and NOx peak around
16:1 and lean out on both side of the air fuel ratio.

Electrical controls try to balance out the air fuel ratio for optimum
performance based on the type of catalytic convertor in the system.

Source: Standard_Handbook_for_Mechanical_Engineers
Hope this helps!

-- 
Jurek Rakoczynski, AG Communication Systems, POB 52179, Phoenix, AZ. 85072
UUCP: ...!{ncar!noao!enuucp | att}!gtephx!rakoczynskij  Voice: +1 602 581 4867
Inet: gtephx!rakoczynskij@enuucp.eas.asu.edu              Fax: +1 602 582 7111
Inet: /DD.UN=J.RAKOCZYNSKI/O=GTE/PRMD=GTEMAIL/ADMD=TELEMAIL/C=US/@sprint.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: pas@jupitercmc.ca (Peter Stokes)
Subject:  Toyota Frequent Valve Clearance Adjustment
Reply-To: pas@jupiter.ic.cmc.ca
Organization: Canadian Microelectronics Corporation
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 13:40:33 GMT

Hi.  My 1986 Toyota Corolla with only 50,000 Km
requires regular valve clearance adjustments to 
silence a valve ticking noise that develops every
few months.    The local Toyota dealer says I 
need a new rocker shaft assembly installed for a
total of about $400.00.    Another dealer says
it might be one of the following:

  1.  Rocker shaft arm worn.   No need to replace.
      No need to worry about long term damage to 
      engine if left to tick.   Surprising since 
      car only has 50,000 km

  2.  Valve stem off center where it meets the 
      rocker shaft arm.   Should be fixed.

  3.  Carbon build-up near or under valve.   Try
      cleaning out the carbon by slowly pouring
      about 1/2 cup of transmission fluid into 
      carburator.    Do this outside as there will
      be lots of smoke.

The carbon build-up theory is possible since the 
car is city-driven only and was once diagnosed with
badly carbon-fouled spark plugs due to a clogged
air filter.   

I am looking for opinions from everyone out there!
Has anyone been through anything similar to this 
with their Toyota (it's an 8-valve 1600cc engine)?
Is pouring transmission fluid into the carburator 
a good carbon-cleaning trick or a waste of time and 
possibly damaging?

Help!

Peter

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Peter A. Stokes ~~~~~~~~ pas@jupiter.ic.cmc.ca ~~~~~~~ (613) 545-2923 ~~~~~
Canadian Microelectronics Corporation ~~~~~~~~~~~ Kingston, Ontario, Canada
                       Educate, don't legislate.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.tech
From: thompson@cactus.org (Charles Thompson)
Subject: Texaco Havoline horror stories?
Followup-To: poster
Keywords: bad oil
Organization: Capital Area Central Texas UNIX Society, Austin, Tx
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 01:53:26 GMT

I have heard two bad stories about quality control on Texaco
Havoline motor oil.      

Has anyone else heard bad things about Havoline?  Other than
quality control it seems to be an o.k. oil.

How about CASTROL GT-X?  is it decent?


-Charlie Thompson 
 

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hsd@swlrat.msd.ray.com (HERBERT DASILVA)
Subject: Re: Dirty oil after change?
Organization: Raytheon Company, Tewksbury, MA
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 17:07:28 GMT

pshyvers@pyrnova.mis.pyramid.com (Peter Shyvers) writes:

>In article <1992Sep7.173024.14772@informix.com> neilw@informix.com (Neil Williams) writes:
>>My SO recently had her oil changed at a local gas station.  When I went
>>with her to pick up her car, I took a look at the dipstick.
>>
>>I was very surprised to see that the oil still looked pretty dirty.
>>I've never checked her oil immediately after a change before 
>>
>>Questioning the mechanic, he said something to the effect that you
>>can never get out all the old oil and it mixes with the new to make
>>it look dirty.  I didn't buy his story, and suspect we were charged
>>for service not performed, or they didn't change the filter.
>>
>>Is the mechanic correct, or am I right to be suspicious?  Oh, previously
>>the oil hadn't been changed for about 5k miles.

>The mechanic is right. If the old oil is visibly dirty, the new oil will be
>dirtied as soon as the mechanic runs the engine to test the oil filter gasket
>for leakage.

  If the oil was REALLY ripe, it could be a light brown after an oil and
  filter change.  But it should not be so dark that you can't read the
  words on the dipstick.

>Remember, that oil clings to every part in the engine, and the sump won't
>"wash" clean *all* the miniscule sediments that accumulate there when the
>oil plug is pulled.  There's also deposits everywhere in the engine.

  If the oil is changed every 5000 miles or less, this should not be the
  case, since the detergents in the oil will suspend or carry to the filter
  any such deposits.  The key is to warm the engine up to operating
  temperature (to ensure suspension of deposits), and then drain it
  completely.  Many oil change places just wait until the bulk of the oil
  is out, then close up the pan, and slap on a new filter, and fill 'er up.
  If you want to maximize each oil change, wait until the oil slows to a
  drip, and change the filter on every oil change.

  If the oil is too dark for your tastes, run it about 100 miles, and then
  change it again.  It can't hurt, only help.  And I hate to say it, but if
  you want to be sure it gets done right, you've got to do it yourself.

	Herb "Mopar Maniac" DaSilva
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: msingh@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (The Supreme Commander)
Subject: Fireston (was: Re: Sears Law Suit)
Organization: Indiana University
Distribution: usa
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 1992 22:33:13 GMT

>My daughter was recently ripped off by Firestone.  I am going after 
>them. I have to send them letters from experts plus a letter from 
>my local mechanic.  They CLAIM they MIGHT make restitution.  We'll 
>see.  I will let you  know.


I used to take my 87 Acura Integra to a Firestone dealer in upstate
NY. They handled my car perfectly. A year later, they changed
managers, and at that point I got ripped off.

After writing a very vocal letter to the Firestone Credit Agency, (I
had the Fireston charge card and made sure to pay for all costs with
it for security) I was completely re-imbursed for all expenses. Ever
since then, I no longer trust franchises. Luckily the firestone dealer
in Bloomington seems to be more competent!


			...Manu

-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------
The Supreme Commander wishes you a Supreme day. 
I'm a Magic Man, oooh, I got the magic hands, yeah...
Don't mind me, I'm just attempting to dock.
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:12417 misc.consumers:16359
From: Lyle_Seaman@transarc.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,misc.consumers
Subject: Re: Rain-X leaving cruddy film on windows?
Date: 9 Sep 92 22:43:41 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Mail to News Gateway at Wang Labs


Anthony Bulloch writes:
> [ ... ]
> In both cases (Reflections and the Power Cleanser) these products replace
> things like Windex etc. which are packed with ammonia and phosphates,
> so you're contributing quite a lot to the cause of reducing pollution
> by using the Espial items, and you lose nothing in effectiveness.

Hmm.  Ammonia and phosphates.  This is fertilizer, right?  Fertilizer
makes trees grow.  Trees are good.  They are going to save us from the
greenhouse effect.  So don't stop using those Windex thingies.

> Espial has a complete range of green products; they're available only
> from independent distributors or direct from the company at wholesale
> if you become an associate, which is very easy to do. (There's a small
> sign-up fee, but you recoup that almost immediately by being able to
> buy at wholesale, of course, and the company has an 800 number for
> ordering direct.)

Uh-oh.  Sounds like a multi-level marketing organization.  Is this
really Amway, or just a green carbon copy?

> There's a number you can call for a recorded message (available 24 hours)
> with product information and I'll be glad to provide
> more details, on both products and buying at wholesale if anyone's
> interested.

Definitely an MLM.

Lyle		Transarc		707 Grant Street
412 338 4474	The Gulf Tower		Pittsburgh 15219
"Many media people are quite trainable, and can be taught fairly 
 sophisticated tricks in exchange for a few morsels of food." - Peter da Silva
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rakoczynskij@gtephx.UUCP (Jurek Rakoczynski)
Subject: The rest of the story (Re: Valve covers & Mobil 1)
Organization: AG Communication Systems, Phoenix, Arizona
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 20:22:56 GMT


Thanks to everyone who posted and sent me private email.  In the
private email, one writer mentioned:
"I've never seen any yellow varnish-like coating in my '84 Honda
Accord even though I've used Mobil 1 (5W-30) in the car since the first oil
change."

I had a chance over Labor day weekend to change the other valve cover
gasket.  The gasket I changed before was for the valve cover with the
breather tube (air intake), and that valve cover only had a minor
yellow varnish-like coating.

The other valve cover I just changed had the pcv valve. While there
was no sludge or deposits on the head near the springs or other
pockets, the valve cover had a thin carbon-like buildup over a yellow
varnish-like coating,  The carbon-like layer was trying to flake off.
It was easy to scrape off with a wide scraper, but the usual gasoline
and engine cleaner really didn't remove the varnish-like stuff.

I called up the previous owner (a good friend) and he couldn't
remember which valve cover gasket he had changed.  The first valve
cover had only RTV silicon, the second one had a gasket plus RTV
silicon.  I don't remember have it comes from the factory.  But this
RTV was also bleeding color when I used "brake clean" on it, like the
other side did.

If someone knows how the valve covers come sealed from the factory for
an `83 Chevy Suburban 350 cid, it might shed some light on how long
the garbage has been on the inside of the covers.
-- 
Jurek Rakoczynski, AG Communication Systems, POB 52179, Phoenix, AZ. 85072
UUCP: ...!{ncar!noao!enuucp | att}!gtephx!rakoczynskij  Voice: +1 602 581 4867
Inet: gtephx!rakoczynskij@enuucp.eas.asu.edu              Fax: +1 602 582 7111
Inet: /DD.UN=J.RAKOCZYNSKI/O=GTE/PRMD=GTEMAIL/ADMD=TELEMAIL/C=US/@sprint.com