HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: taylor@farm.rtp.dg.com (William Taylor)
Subject: AC compressor always engaged
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 92 11:21:55 GMT
Reply-To: taylor@rtp.dg.com
Organization: Data General Corp., Research Triangle Park, NC

The AC on my car won't disengage - even with the AC off.
1983 Pontiac Bonneville V6 231 automatic.

If I turn the AC on, the compressor always spins - it doesn't cycle
on and off.

If I turn the AC off, the compressor always spins - it doesn't cycle
on and off.

The blower doesn't work unless the AC is turned on.

Sounds like a short, but I need to know more about the AC.

1) Does the power to the compressor cycle on and off, that is,
   is something else regulating when the compressor should cycle?

OR

2) Should the compressor get continuous power (when the AC is on) and
   does it cycle itself?

I would guess 1.  So it sounds like there is a short somewhere between
the compressor and whatever controls it.  And it seems like the AC power
wire must be shorting to another hot wire.

Or maybe whatever controls the cycling of the compressor is bad or has a short.

Recent history: Blower wasn't working, took it apart and cleaned it.  It
works now.  New 3 row heavy duty radiator.
I probably broke the AC while fixing the blower because the problem showed
up the next time my wife drove the car.

Well enough rambling, any ideas?
--
Buddy Taylor 				taylor@rtp.dg.com
Data General Corporation		Research Triangle Park, NC  27709
From: bohdan@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (bohdan.l.bodnar)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Toyota fault codes
Keywords: 1987 Camry
Date: 21 Jul 92 13:12:11 GMT
Article-I.D.: cbnewsd.1992Jul21.131211.14892
Distribution: na
Organization: AT&T

I'm in need of (1) instruction on how to extract fault codes out of the
computer and (2) a list of the fault codes.  If anybody has this information
readily available, would you be so kind as to e-mail it to me?

Cordially,

Bohdan Bodnar
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: garnett@theory.TC.Cornell.EDU (Roger Garnett)
Subject: Re: Redline MTL
Organization: Cornell University
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 13:57:08 GMT

In article <3470@eastman.UUCP> ricks@berkeley.edu writes:

>I had heard the same good things about MTL, so last fall I decided to
>try it in my Turbo Thunderbird, which has very notchy shifting.  It did
>seem to make shifting slightly easier (at best) in this car, though not
>really enough to be worth the trouble.  But as winter started, and the
>temperatures dropped, the gears would grind as I shifted until the car
>was warmed up.  Once the car was up to temperature, the transmission was
>fine.  I guess at low temperatures, the MTL lubricated the syncros too
>well.  I ended up putting the factory specified fluid back in (ATF of
>all things) and the problem went away.

MTL may be the wrong lubricant for this application- It may be a bit
too thick when cold. it's supposed to replace heavier oils, not ATF.
For an ATF reccommended tranny, you might try Redline ATF. They also
have a lightweight gear oil for "maximum power transfer", but
"components may wear faster". 
______________________________________________________________
Roger Garnett  (sggy@crux1.cit.cornell.edu)     (607) 255-2522
Cornell University Agricultural Economics       Ithaca, N.Y.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: stevans@resumix.portal.com (Mark Stevans)
Subject: Re: new engine proms from J.C. Whitney & Co.
Organization: Resumix, Inc.
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 92 00:03:40 GMT

In article <25005@dog.ee.lbl.gov> leres@ee.lbl.gov (ucbvax!leres for uucp weenies) writes:
>Got the lastest J.C. Whitney catalog today. They have a "computer chip
>switching system" for 84-91 GM cars. They handle 2 or 4 chips and use a
>keylock to switch between them. But what's really interesting is that
>they also sell some custom proms for use with this item:
>
>Next thing you know, they'll be offering:
>
>    Dealer Chip. Car runs normally for 3 months/3000 miles and then
>    runs rough, stalls, surges, backfires, etc. forcing customer to
>    bring vehicle back to dealer for "servicing."

I have a couple of requests if anyone is in the automotive PROM business:

	Smoke Cloud/Blast-of-Fire-out-tailpipe PROM: useful for tailgaters.

	World's Greatest Auto Sounds PROM: adjusts ignition timing, fuel/air
	curves, transmission switch points, etc. to make your car sound like a
	Ferrari, Lamborghini, etc..

MLS
From: mellum@skyler.mavd.honeywell.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: glass parts for GN
Date: 29 Jul 92 17:59:13 GMT
Distribution: all
Organization: Honeywell Systems & Research Center

In article <1992Jul27.132151.26454@cabell.vcu.edu>, rmason@cabell.vcu.edu (Robert Mason Jr.) writes:
> 
> I'm looking for fiberglass parts for an 86-87 Grand National.  I'm
> really concerned with finding fenders and possibly a glass hood which
> will use the stock latch and shocks.  I want to stay away from using
> hood pins if possible.
> 
> thanks / Bobby
> rmason@cabell.vcu.edu
> 
Dennis Kirban GTO's on the east coast sells what is generally regarded as the
best glass hood for the GN. I think you can still use the stock latches.

Bumpers: Kirban, Kenne-Bell, Applied Technologies and Research all sell them.

Not sure about the fenders. But they must be out there because a buddy of mine
racers a '83 Regal with a stage 2 455 and a fiberglass front clip.

Ron
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: harmonic balancer
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 23 Jul 92 23:07:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * Jacksonville AR USA * 501-985-0059


-> I've heard of the outer ring slipping on a small block chevy
-> balancer. I've also heard of people damaging them (ie..  hit it, drop
-> it, etc)

 Whoops.  Forgot the (several) other separated balancers I've seen -
amateurs who thought they could use a big jaw type gear puller, and
pulled the outer ring clean off the inner one.

 Surprise, surprise, surprise...
                                                                                                                
From: Steve.Kaess@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Steve Kaess)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Oil Drain Plug Is Stuck
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 02:31:24 -0500

 > When I went to change my oil in my new car, I realized that
 > when the dealer
 > serviced it, they must have tightened to oil drain plug
 > too tight, because it
 > just won't budge.  And to make matters worse, the bolt
 > head is starting to
 > strip.  Any suggestions on how to free this thing up?
 > I've got a new plug, but
 
WAIT!!! is it an aluminium or a steel pan?? ya gotta be careful with 
those aluminium ones...if it is steel try a pair of vise grips--make 
the fit so tight that you can just get the vise grips to lock.  If 
that fails a pipe wrench...be sure to replace the washer too...



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: scott@psy.uwa.oz.au (Scott Fisher)
Subject: Re: Oil Drain Plug Is Stuck
Organization: University of Western Australia
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 02:28:28 GMT

>When I went to change my oil in my new car, I realized that when the dealer 
>serviced it, they must have tightened to oil drain plug too tight, because it
>just won't budge.  And to make matters worse, the bolt head is starting to 
>strip.  Any suggestions on how to free this thing up?  I've got a new plug, but
>can't get the old one out!  Thanks.

Just a thought, are you sure you are turning it in the right direction,
I once got caught out by a sump plug that was the revese thread to just about
everything I had worked on...when I decided to try tightening the thing
in a desparate attempt to get some movement, any movement :-) it came
undone....woops :-) :-)

Regards Scott.
_______________________________________________________________________________
Scott Fisher [scott@psy.uwa.oz.au]  PH: Aus [61] Perth (09) Local (380 3272).                
                                                             _--_|\       N
Department of Psychology                                    /      \    W + E
University of Western Australia.                 Perth -->  *_.--._/      S
Nedlands, 6009.  PERTH, W.A.                                      v       

    *** ERROR 144 - REBOOT? is a registered trademark of ENSONIQ Corp ***
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: alc@gdstech.grumman.com (Al Chang)
Subject: Re: Front-wheel drive tire wear 
Reply-To: alc@gdstech.UUCP (Al Chang)
Organization: Grumman Data Systems-Woodbury
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 14:49:44 GMT

In article <1992Jul30.123033.11908@brtph560.bnr.ca> mjsutton@bnr.ca (Michael Sutton P025) writes:
>The front tires on my 90 Dodge Caravan have worn out on the inside edges.
>The tires are basically bald on the inside and have developed scalloped
>areas.  Prior to this extreme wear condition I noticed an uneven surface
>on the inside edges; periodic bumps in the tire surface.
>
>I've heard that front wheel drive cars typically wear on the inside
>edges, and my other front-wheel drive car does wear-out first in this
>area. 
>
>I've got about 37K miles on the tires.  I rotated them about every 8-9K
>miles.
>
>Do I have an alignment problem or just worn-out tires?

Alignment problem. Also, I rotate the tires religiously on my 90 Grand
Caravan. The original tires should last 70K, I've got 48K now. 
All my family's 5 FWD vehicles wear evenly, but faster on the front 
(naturally.)

-- 
     ---  My opinions do not represent the opinions of my employer.  ---  
******************************************************************************
Al Chang                                        email: alc@gdstech.grumman.com
Grumman Data Systems                                  Woodbury, New York 11797
From: pshyvers@pyrnova.mis.pyramid.com (Peter Shyvers)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Could somebody please explain : PCV valves.
Date: 21 Jul 92 04:10:49 GMT
Reply-To: pshyvers@pyrnova.pyramid.com (Peter Shyvers)
Distribution: na
Organization: Pyramid Technology Corp., Mountain View, CA
Originator: daemon@sword.eng.pyramid.com

In article <4745@calmasd.Prime.COM> jxt@calmasd.Prime.COM (Jawahar Tembulkar) writes:
>
>Could somebody please explain the design function of a PCV valve ?
>Would a disfunctional PCV valve reduce the performance and/or the
>gas mileage ?

The PCV ("positive crankcase ventilation" - how unglamourous!) valve meters a
portion of crankcase fumes into the engine aspiration system - ie. carburator
and intake manifold - so that the hydrocarbons in the fumes can be combusted
in normal combustion.

What the fumes come from is blow-by - gases that leak (from the chamber formed
by the cylinder, head, valves, piston, and piston rings) past the piston rings
and into the crankcase. If one were able to obtain a perfect seal, crankcase
ventilation would be unnecessary.

The previous approach was the "road-draft tube". A mesh-filled cap or vent was
on one (or both, if V-8) valve train covers, and a tube extended down the back
of the block - about 1-1.5" in diameter. The end was formed to form a low-
pressure area at the end of tube when the car was going forward, drawing gases
out of the tube.

The tube not only poured lots of unburned hydrocarbons into the atmosphere,
it stunk in a worn engine, and dripped lots of oil. The body pan of the car
would also have a trail of oil rearward...

A "weak" valve that passed too much during high manifold vacuum would upset the
air-fuel ratio and cause poor performance; a "strong" valve that didn't vent
the crankcase wouldn't affect performance - in fact it would *improve* it, as
the blow-by fumes detract from performance - which is why rodders would plug
the PCV lines with ball bearings... But the offset is excess crankcase pressure
which threatens to blow exterior seals. And unburned gasoline that remains in
the crankcase, dissolved in the oil, reduces engine lubrication...
the  
motion,
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: 86 => 66 Mustang conversion.
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 23 Jul 92 22:54:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * Jacksonville AR USA * 501-985-0059


-> The reason I ask is because I would like a 66 Mustang I
-> think they are great looking cars but I wouldn't feel right driving
-> around in a car that was spewing out unburned hydrocarbons and who
-> know what else like there was no towmorrow.

 Maybe you should just hitch a couple of horses to the front and
dispense with those nasty hydrocarbons altogether.

 Or walk.
                                                                                                  
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: esprit@netcom.com (Alan F. Perry)
Subject: Anyone know about aftermarket electronic ignitions
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 92 21:20:17 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 

I have a 1978 Lotus with an Allison XR-700 electronic ignition which
was installed long before I bought the car.  Right now, I am having a 
problem with the car and there are many indications that the problem
is in the electronic ignition.

So, here are my questions:

1. Is there a way to check the ignition module?  

2. Is Allison still in business?  If so, are their current models plug-
   compatible with their older ones?

3. Does anyone have manuals/schematics/anything for the Allison XR-700?

Any help would be appreciated.

alan

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: Oil Drain Plug Is Stuck
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 15:57:55 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL
Keywords: oil car

 If the head is not completely ruined, go and buy a set of 6-point sockets
and a ratchet. A good 6-point will hold on much better than an open-end
or, worse but more common unfortunately, an adjustable bolt stripper.

 If the head is beyond help then you should buy, beg or borrow a good-sized
pair of Vise-Grips. Big ones with the sharp teeth on the jaw end, not the
smooth end type. You want a long enough handle that you can really snap
the thing down with enough force to hold past the breakaway torque of the
bolt. With a good bite, you can then either (a) put a piece of pipe over
the arm which has the adjusting screw - make sure it's on so you're forcing
it in the stay-closed direction - or (b) use a hammer.

 The oil pan drain plug should never be on that tight. I think this sort
of thing (lug nuts too) is done to keep people coming back because they
can't undo the work of the idiot with the impact wrench. But the proper
choice of tools and a piece of pipe will set you free. Hint: use a tool
with a free replacement warranty if you go to extreme measures.
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
From: plumpe@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Plumpe)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Chevy Headliner Replacement
Date: 27 Jul 92 13:20:51 GMT
Reply-To: plumpe@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Plumpe)
Distribution: na
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD


    My 1977 Chevy Caprice wagon has the dreaded "GM Headliner Droop"
- the layer of foam rubber between the cloth and the formed cardboard
roof liner has deteriorated badly.  The Chevy parts place says replacement
headliners are not available.  I could take it to a trim shop, but I'd
prefer to do it myself.

    J.C.Whitney sells both headliner kits and bulk headliner fabric
(either with or without foam backing).  According to the description,
the kits seem to hang below the existing headliner on bows, taking about
1/2" of headroom.  I would prefer to make it as close to original as
I can, so I lean toward glueing foam-backed material in place of the
original stuff.

    Anybody have any experiences/thoughts you'd offer me and the millions
of other GM Headliner Droop sufferers in netland??

-DaveP
From: silver@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (john.w.jensen)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Hesitation in 1988 NOVA HELP!!!
Keywords: help
Date: 23 Jul 92 19:46:04 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T


     Hello,

  I'm having a problem with my 88 nova. 
Mileage 60,000.
In the morning during the first twenty minutes 
of driving the car seems to hesitate between 
2nd and 3rd gear.  Almost seems like its not getting
enough gas or something. I've already changed the 
gas filter and sprayed some gumout down the carb.
Does this sound like a choke problem? Any suggestions
please post them. 
 
Thanks, John
From: tr@samadams.princeton.edu (Tom Reingold)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: grinding gears when revving engine at high speed
Date: 31 Jul 92 18:19:18 GMT
Organization: Noo Joizy, USA

andyc@hplsla.hp.com (Andy Cassino) writes:

$ [problems with 900S transmission]

$ Anyway, I know the 9000 has different transmission, but perhaps a similar
$ design idiosyncracy in this regard. That is disappointing. I would advise 
$ avoiding any shifting that causes grinding, obviously it will catch up with 
$ your wallet in the long run (it did with me)!

Thanks to many of you who advised me.  I am just pushing my car too
hard and have to shift more slowly.  This may cost me a half second or
so but will spare my transmission.

By the way, in my original post, I forgot to mention the age of the
car.  It is a 1987, with 88,000 miles on it.  I bought it about a year
and three months ago, when it had 68,000 miles on it.

My mechanic says that the Saab 9000 line is the result of collaboration
between Saab, Lancia, and Alfa Romeo.  He says that the transmission is
from Lancia.  Is this stuff true?  If so, the advice that applies to
the 900 transmission could be totally inapplicable.

$ A few weeks ago I had an opportunity to put a few hundred miles on a '92
$ 9000S with the 4-speed automatic (and the 2.3L engine, normally-aspirated).
$ It is quite slow off the line (miserable, in fact, with the A/C on), but 
$ once under way, the transmission/engine combination is pretty nice. But
$ expect only 20-21 mpg overall, maybe 26-27 on the freeway.

Slow is a relative word and what is fast to some is slow to others.  My
view is that my Saab's acceleration isn't really that bad, but it takes
a lot of driver effort to get what you want.  Maybe the automatic
transmission makes things a lot worse.

Mine has the 2.0l engine.  I wonder why this new Saab gets such bad
mileage.  Mine gets 29 mpg overall!
--
        Tom Reingold
        tr@samadams.princeton.edu  OR  ...!princeton!samadams!tr
        "Warning: Do not drive with Auto-Shade in place.  Remove
        from windshield before starting ignition."
From: aahsan@pyramid.COM (Agha Ahsan)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: using different Oil than reccomened
Date: 27 Jul 92 20:49:20 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Pyramid Technology Corporation, Mountain View, California


	What are the ramifications of using thicker oil than
	that reccomended by manufacturer, especially for
	turbo engines. ex: use 20w50 in place of 10w30.

	-Agha
From: pshyvers@pyrnova.mis.pyramid.com (Peter Shyvers)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Run-on in old cars ( timing chain? )
Date: 21 Jul 92 03:44:16 GMT
Reply-To: pshyvers@pyrnova.pyramid.com (Peter Shyvers)
Organization: Pyramid Technology Corp., Mountain View, CA
Originator: daemon@sword.eng.pyramid.com

In article <1992Jul16.095017.8498@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com> principe@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com (Tony Principe) writes:
>
>When I had my old 72 Pontiac, I had to turn the key off while the car was in
>gear in order to keep the engine from running. One time I happened to be 
>looking through the shop manual and noticed a chart that listed different
>heat range spark plugs for different driving conditions. For some reason,
>the car had come with hotter plugs than what was actually needed. And when-
>ever I gave the car a tune up, I always replaced the plugs with the same
>type that were there previously. Finally I switched to the next cooler plug
>and never had a problem with run on after that. I don't know why the car had
>hot plugs installed in the first place.

Common problem. Sometimes the parts department or mechanic screwed up, or 
someone tried to get tricky to combat another problem. Sometimes the shop is
out of the right plugs, and too stupid or cheap to order-in the right ones.
It's easy in a rush to overlook or understate the effect of that tiny
increase in the length of the portion inside the cylinder...

We always had to document on the shop order the stock plugs, and why we
made a substitution. People checked the book every time, and customers were
asked if they had hotter plugs in place. 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: Chevy Headliner Replacement
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 13:44:02 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 If you can remove the cardboard shell, think about using a mastic-type
cement. You want something which keeps to itself, i.e. not solvent-heavy,
so you don't get it bleeding through the material. The stuff for wood
flooring might be good. Spread it over the cardboard, thinly, with a putty
knife. Remove as much of the rotted foam as possible. Smooth the headliner
onto the form. You only get one try. 
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kenny@osf.org (Kenneth Crudup)
Subject: Re: Carbon Buildup in engines ( valves ? ).....
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 18:55:55 GMT

In article <1992Jul23.150056.21826@mlb.semi.harris.com>
jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger) writes:
>So if you are doing this steam cleaning thing it might be a good idea to
>administer it so that all the water goes down the throats - like a siphon
>hose, wash bottle or something.

Since I've got turbo FI, I use one of the vacuum hoses. If you do this, you
*will* get too much water in unless you play it safe and "hand meter" it.
Don't just drop a line from a vacuum fitting into a quart of water.

	-Kenny
-- 
Kenneth R. Crudup, Contractor, OSF DCE QA
OSF, 11 Cambridge Center, Cambridge, MA 02142	+1 617 621 7306
kenny@osf.osf.org			OSF has nothing to do with this post.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: Oil Drain Plug Is Stuck
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 92 06:42:32 GMT

jayc@hubcap.clemson.edu (Jay Crawford) writes:
: When I went to change my oil in my new car, I realized that when the dealer 
: serviced it, they must have tightened to oil drain plug too tight, because it
: just won't budge.  And to make matters worse, the bolt head is starting to 
: strip.  Any suggestions on how to free this thing up?  I've got a new plug, but
: can't get the old one out!  Thanks.
: 
Well, after you use the suggestions presented here by others, one thing I'd make
a point of is taking the buggered-up bolt back to the morons who did the work,
explaining to them your true feelings as to the wisdom of using an impact
wrench to tighten ANYTHING.  Also, find another mechanic.  If this greasemonkey
is torquing your drainplug that tight, god knows what else he has screwed up!

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - you get what you pay for; you pay for what you get.
hinz@picard.med.ge.com


Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:10327 rec.autos.vw:4410