HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: ajones@dadd.ti.com (Alan Jones, EC1 F9 ??, 997-2428, AMJ1)
Subject: Clueless Newbie
Reply-To: ajones@dadd.ti.com
Organization: Texas Instruments, Inc.
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 21:42:30 GMT

  I am a clueless newbie to car audio, and am planning on replacing my
  existing system.  I am finding it EXTREMELY difficult to find good 
  information to help me make the required decisions for accomplishing
  this.  If necessary I will let professionals do the install, but I'm
  hoping I can do it myself and save some money.

  I am hoping that this newsgroup might be able to assist me.  If you
  feel like giving some advice, here's what I am working with:

  My requirements:
    -  '84 Toyota Celica hatchback
    -  ~$1000 budget
    -  replace existing head unit and speakers
    -  head unit: CD player, tape player and excellent FM tuner
    -  music:  hard rock, some metal, some easy rock
    -  want to install myself (hopefully, if I decide it's feasible), and
       don't want to have to build any speaker boxes or cut new holes for
       speakers
    -  existing speaker holes - front = 3.5" ?
                                rear  = 5.25"

  I already have some ideas on what I'd like to buy, but I'd like to hear
  from the net before I post the ideas.

---
sincerely,
Alan Jones  /  Texas Instruments, Dallas, TX  /  email=ajones@asic.sc.ti.com

Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: trw@spl1.spl.loral.com (Tim R Witort)
Subject: Re: need help to look for a cd
Organization: Loral Software Productivity Laboratory
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 19:53:41 GMT

In article <9301051649.AA14996@dpeipc1.radsci.uci.edu>, atvu@dpeipc1.radsci.UCI.EDU writes:
|> HI netters!!
|> I plan to buy a cd for my car, however I don't know which one I should choose
|> a cd changer, or a cd receiver pull out, ??????
|> I know that if I buy a cd changer and a am/fm cassette with cd
|> control, its price is just a little bit more than a cd receiver
|> pullout, but is the sound in a cd changer sounds great as a cd receiver????

   Yes.  They will likely sound identical.  Even if there is a difference,
you certainly wouldn't be able to hear it in a mobile system (unless the
changer uses an RF transmitter to get the music to your head unit rather
than a cable - avoid this method if at all possible).

|> and do they mistrack??????????

   Neither the in-dash units nor the changers mistrack very easily.
It takes a VERY harsh bump to cause any mistracks if the units are
properly installed.

|> thanks in advance!

   No problemo.

-- Tim
From: keys@starchild.ncsl.nist.gov (Lawrence B. Keys)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Overheating CDs
Date: 6 Jan 93 13:30:48 GMT
Organization: National Institute of Standards & Technology

In article <1993Jan5.183155.11352@wdl.loral.com> trw@spl1.spl.loral.com (Tim R Witort) writes:
>A few people mentioned Pioneer in-dash CD players
>that make the CD hot when it is played.  I've noticed
>the same thing with my Sony 4040 in-dash CD player.
>Is this a normal thing for ALL in-dash CD players?
>Owners of other brands please respond...
>
>-- Tim


I have never experienced this.  I have a Denon 8770 in dash unit.

                                                  .  
                                                 /                
Larry                            __/    _______/_                 
keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov       /                  \               
                          _____     __     _____    \------- ===
            ----------- / ____/   /  /   /__  __/              \
         /     ___    /  / ___   /  /      / /    ____          |
        |    /      \/ /__ /  | /  /__  __/ /__ /       \      / 
        /___         \_______/ /_____/ /______/            ====OO
            \       /                           \       /         
                -                                   -
       ---------------- FAHRVERGNUGEN FOREVER! --------------------            
            The fact that I need to explain it to you indicates
            that you probably wouldn't understand anyway!
       ------------------------------------------------------------

Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: amigo@halcyon.com (Scott Rowin)
Subject: Adding Caps to amp inputs
Organization: Northwest Nexus Inc. (206) 455-3505
Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1993 04:38:08 GMT



	Just wonding how well adding caps (large value 100,000 uF) works.
I know its been noted before to help get that extra kick out of subwoofers,
but I'd like to hear anyone that's gone through the extra work give some
comments - simply because caps in the 100,000 uF range cost $15.. not exactly
small change if it doesn't help, and if you're buying the standard 100,000uf
per 100W - I have 2 amplifers, the bass amp is 300 watts, and the main is
around 225 watts, so hence by the fomula, I'm going to dump $60 or so buck into
this.

						Thanks, Scott
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: macman+@pitt.edu (Dennis H Lippert)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Loss of Treble
Date: 11 Jan 93 16:44:37 GMT
Organization: University of Pittsburgh

In article <1993Jan11.134333.11757@westminster.ac.uk> adcec@westminster.ac.uk (Paul Roberts) writes:
>I have a Roadstar Radio/tape player.. can't remember the number for now,
>anyway, when playing tapes I usually don't get any treble from the left
>hand side, on either side of the tape ( it is an auto-reverse player)
>I also reciently got a hi-fi deck with the same problem..

In this last line, are you implying that you have the same problems in another
tape deck?? If so, I'd say definitely that the tapes are the culprit. If all
of them were recorded on the same stereo system... that machine's record 
head is either faulty or misaligned. About all you can do is "deal with it"
(bad option) or re-record all the tapes on a good deck (a bad proposition
if you're anywhere near as busy as me!).

Check it out with a known good tape (aka one NOT recorded on the suspect deck).

Hope it helps!
Den

-- 
==========================================================================
  Dennis Lippert   -   macman+@pitt.edu    or    macman@vm2.cis.pitt.edu
The "Mac Maniac" operator at the Sutherland Hall Lab - Univ. of Pittsburgh
                             "Just the Macs, Man"
From: trw@spl1.spl.loral.com (Tim R Witort)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: to amp or not to amp?
Date: 6 Jan 93 20:53:41 GMT
Organization: Loral Software Productivity Laboratory

In article <1ifcoaINNnie@jethro.Corp.Sun.COM>, elef@smarmy.Eng.Sun.COM (elaine 'beano' leffler) writes:
|> this player has a built-in 2 channel amp, but the car i'm putting
|> it into is equipped with 4 speakers.  according to the people at circuit
|> city (surprisingly low bull**** level, it SEEMS) i can either do the
|> factory-correct install and buy an external amp to enable me to use
|> all 4 speakers, or they can do some fancy wiring footwork and wire
|> the stereo to 4 speakers.  in this case, i'd lose the functionality of 
|> either the fader or balance control (i can do without the balance 
|> and not lose any sleep over it).  i'm wondering what the catch is - 
|> what else would i be losing by not adding the external amp?

   Basically what they are suggesting is to make your front and rear left
speakers one channel and your front and rear right speakers the other channel.
Doing this, there is no way to adjust how much sound is coming from front
vs. rear using the fader control on the head unit.  The other option is to 
make your front speakers one channel and your rear speakers the other channel
in which case you COULD adjust the front vs. rear sound level (using the
balance control again), but (and this is a big BUT) the stereo image will
be aligned front to rear rather than side to side.  This would probably
make for strange listening and would also make the front vs. rear adjustment
rather strange since you would be using the balance control to make the left
or right channel quieter.  The wiring for this set up isn't all that 
tricky though.  If you're interested in what's involved let me (or anyone
else in this group) know and I'll post the wiring diagram.

P.S. As long as you have no external amp on your head unit, your fader control
     is useless.

-- Tim
From: cr415@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Adam S. Wang)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Truck Stereo
Date: 9 Jan 1993 00:02:10 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu



Hello everyone,

     I recently purchased a new truck and am interested in 
installing a good stereo with lots of bass.  Here are some
questions I hope the net can answer:

1.  How do I remove the dashboard speaker grills so that I can
install my own 4" speakers?  The truck is a 1992 Mitsubishi
Mighty Max, identical to a Dodge RAM 50.  Do I need to remove
the entire dashboard panel?

2.  Is it possible to use a portable CD walkman connected directly
to a 100-watt amplifier?  One salesman I talked to said it's not
a good idea because the line-out from a portable is only several
millivolts whereas the line-out of a typical car head unit is
1 to 2 volts, and most amps require at least 1 volt to work
efficiently.

3.  How good are Rockford Fosgate truck boxes?  Many places in
the Bay Area advertise them for less than $200/pair, but they
don't sound as "deep" as my Kicker Super II's, which unfortunately
won't fit behind the bench seat of my standard-cab pickup truck.
Is there a brand of behind-the-seat truck boxes with better bass
than Rockford Fosgate?

Many thanx!


-Adam
From: bkerbel@netxcom.netx.com (BKerbel)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: crossover for Alpine speakers
Date: 5 Jan 93 16:42:03 GMT
Organization: NetExpress Inc., Vienna, VA, USA


I am thinking about adding an active crossover to my system.  I currently
have a pair of Alpine 6562 component speakers.  These came with a
passive crossover which seems to work fairly well.  I believe the
crossover point is around 7 kHz.  However, I find myself in the position
of upgrading my system, and I think I'm going to end up with an extra
amplifier when I'm done.  I would like to use this to bi-amplify my
component speakers.  As part of the upgrade I will be buying another
pair of 6562 speakers (I may buy the drivers individually without the
passive x-over).  I want to use a an Alpine 3527 amp (4x25 watts) to power 
the tweeters, and an Alpine 3555 (4x50 watts) to power the mid-woofers.  I
need an active crossover, however I know very little about these.  What would
be a good crossover for this application?  Should the active crossover point 
be the same as the passive one?  Does it matter what the crossover slope 
is (6, 12, 18 db/octave)?

Other info on the system.  I'm using an Alpine 7618 head unit.  The 6562's 
have the mid-woofers mounted in doors with the current pair of tweeters
mounted in the dash where the factory 4x6's used to be.  The new 6562's will
have both the mid-woofers and the tweeters mounted in the doors, with
the tweeters being at about shoulder level.  By the way I have a firebird.
The rear speakers are Infinity 693K and I will be adding a JL Audio sub-driver.
I haven't figured out what to do for an enclosure.  Does anybody know what
sounds good in a firebird?  I want smooth tight bass with no artificial 
boominess.  My dealer has recommended a single 12" driver, does this make
sense?  I will be using another Alpine 3555 to power my rear speakers
and sub. In three channel mode the 3555 gives 2x50 watts for my rear
speakers, and 1x160 for the sub.  I do not need crossover for the
sub since the 3555 amps have a 18 db/octave crossover built in at 80 Hz.

				thanx,
					Brett
From: wbg@festival.ed.ac.uk (W Geake)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: detachable faceplate - effective or gimmick?
Date: 8 Jan 93 15:57:08 GMT

sr0o+@andrew.cmu.edu (Steven Ritter) writes:

>>PS>  For anti-theft, the best thing I have seen is "stealth" systems.  
>>     Leave your factory radio there, buy a CD changer to mount in the
>>     trunk(or under seat), and have your installer mount the control
>>     in an inconspicuous place like the glove compartment, center console,
>>     under seat, in ash tray etc...

>It would be nice if the detachable face units came with a "dummy" face
>that made the thing look like a Sparkomatic (or a factory radio, if
>thieves don't like those). Do they sell things like this (or does anyone
>have a suggestion as to how to make one)?

You can buy one in the UK, of all places, to go over the front of
anything. It looks like the old knob-at-each-end radios.  Thieves here
are probably desperate enough to steal even them - they're about 5
pounds sterling, which coincidentally is what my stereo is probably
worth.
Bill, who is cheap'n'cheerful.
Organization: University of Illinois at Chicago
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 04:17:08 CST
From: Noel B. Lorenzana <U38134@uicvm.uic.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: @@@ 10" Cerwin Vega for sale, dirt cheap @@@

These are just under a year old. Model number, Xl10s, single
voice coil. 150 watt handling capability. They subs are in great
condition. I used them for about 4 mos. juicing them with a 75 watt
amp. They retail for about $100 a piece and will sell the pair for
the best offer over $110. I'm not happy to get rid of these, but
I'm a poor college student in desparate need of tuition money.

Thanks
Noel.
U38134@uicvm.uic.edu
From: keys@starchild.ncsl.nist.gov (Lawrence B. Keys)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Car Alarms
Date: 5 Jan 93 13:19:20 GMT
Organization: National Institute of Standards & Technology

I am seriously considering buying a new alarm for my car.  My current
alarm a Kenwood KPC-31, has become unreliable to the point where
i don't have any confidence that it will protect my car.

First the light flashing feature, went screwy, now the siren has
decided to die!

I figure that most of the readers of this newsgroup probably have alarm
systems since they spend a lot of money on their car audio systems 
(myself included).

Which alarm is used by most car audio enthusiast?  It seems that when it
comes to amps, headunits, and speakers name brands make a difference. Does
the same hold true for alarms?

I am intrested in an alarm that will include:

	door,trunk and hood protection (pin switches)
	glass break detection
	shock sensor
	ignition kill
	light flashing
	soft chirp, and possibly locking/unlocking doors 

I am currently researching the Alpine 8040.  Any other suggestions?

Thanks

BTW, thanks to all that responded to my post about, crossover output
turn-on's.
                                                  .  
                                                 /                
Larry                            __/    _______/_                 
keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov       /                  \               
                          _____     __     _____    \------- ===
            ----------- / ____/   /  /   /__  __/              \
         /     ___    /  / ___   /  /      / /    ____          |
        |    /      \/ /__ /  | /  /__  __/ /__ /       \      / 
        /___         \_______/ /_____/ /______/            ====OO
            \       /                           \       /         
                -                                   -
       ---------------- FAHRVERGNUGEN FOREVER! --------------------            
            The fact that I need to explain it to you indicates
            that you probably wouldn't understand anyway!
       ------------------------------------------------------------
From: shoe@eskimo.com (Brian Foote)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Wanted: Speaker Suggestions
Date: 4 Jan 93 10:56:58 GMT
Organization: -> ESKIMO NORTH (206) For-Ever <-

I have a '85 Sentra with a half way decent Concord cassette/radio in it,
but the speakers have to go.  I'm looking at getting new speakers to get
it sounding better (and will probably get a new deck/amp/whatever in the
future)  I have a max of about $200 to spend and a few questions:

 1) What do you all think about seperate or add-on tweeters?  I'm
    considering getting normal or horn-type tweeters, but I wouldnt 
    want to tear up the interior installing them if it's not going to
    make a difference.

 2) I'm looking at getting some new 5" 's for the in-door speakers and
    some enclosed speakers for the back (unless someone has successfully
    mounted speakers in the back somewhere in an 85 sentra and would
    like to tell me where I can do it and have it sound good)
           Any Suggestion?

 3) Is there a significant sound differece from a $120 pair of speakers
    to a $200 pair?  I may just get one good pair for the back and wait
    on the rest.

 4) Are mail-order places the way to go?

 5) Finally, should I replace all the factory speaker wires?  If so,
    what kind of wire? (how thick, etc)

 Thanks, reply on here or E-mail to shoe@eskimo.com
From: richard@newt.ee.byu.edu (Richard Christensen)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Graphite composte sub-woofer
Date: 12 Jan 93 08:38:42
Organization: Brigham Young University, Provo UT USA
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: newt.ee.byu.edu
Originator: richard@newt.ee.byu.edu


I have the opportunity to create a project out of a 
graphite composite.  I would like to create a flat 
woofer 1'x3-4' out of the composite,  but I don't 
know where to get the magnets, voice coils, or foam 
gasket.  Has anyone tried this approach with success?  
Does anyone know where I can get the supplies.  I have 
Zaylatron's(sp?) catalog but the individual parts are not 
mentioned. Does anyone know of good books that would help 
me build the enclosure?  Is Dickason's book okay or is 
the data of the typical pyramidal cone speaker?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Richard Christensen

Richard@newt.ee.byu.edu
From: lagnaf@Apple.COM (John "LJ" Czlonka)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Car Alarms
Date: 5 Jan 93 22:45:01 GMT
Organization: Apple Computer Inc, Cupertino, CA

In response to keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov (Lawrence B. Keys) query on Car
Alarms:

Larry,


I personally have an Alpine 8040 in my '91 Isuzu Rodeo LS (a large vehicle - 
I was concerned that it would be impossible to calibrate the prox sensors
to its dimensions, but it's worked fine).  It's NEVER falsed on me, and the
only problem I've had is it's gone into "warning mode" (soft chirps 4 times
and flashes the parking lights to indicate that someone has penetrated the
outside perimeter for more than 10 seconds) a couple of times when it shouldn't
have (I've been told it's due to the sub minus 30 temperatures we've been
having, but then again, I know nothing about alarms, so I'm not going to 
speculate).  I heartily recommend it.

-LJ
lagnaf@apple.com

p.s.: If anyone's in the Toronto area, check out Autoworks Specialties @
(416) 469 - 5997.  I can't remember the exact address, as I've moved from
Toronto now.  I've purchased the 8040 from them, as well as a JBL 1500GTI in
an INCREDIBLE sounding bandpass enclosure. I don't own the store or anything,
I'm just a satisfied customer.

---------------------------------------
My opinion, not Apple's
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: RYNA10@waccvm.corp.mot.com (Jay Kopycinski)
Subject: Re: Speaker crackle
Organization: Motorola
Date: 11 Jan 1993 08:02:50 MST

------------------------- Original Article -------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: worley@a.cs.okstate.edu (WORLEY LAWRENCE JA)
Subject: Re: Speaker crackle
Organization: Oklahoma State University
Date: Sat, 9 Jan 93 07:28:25 GMT

From article <1993Jan8.194313.23008@schbbs.mot.com>, by RYNA10@waccvm.corp.mot.c
> ------------------------- Original Article -------------------------
>
> I have a 89 Jeep YJ with a pull out Kenwood sterio. Since I am restricted
> to 4X6 speakers it quite treblelly but thats not problem. Due to the wind
> noise and my lust for loud music I need to turn the radio up pretty high to
> get satisfaction. The speakers crackle but it isn't due to the speaker
> magnet bottoming out (I think). The root of the problem seem to be these
> electrolytic capacitors on the speaker lines. I didn't put them there, they
> were initially used in conjunction with a Kicker. I dont want to get a
> kicker but there is some funky wiring going on down there with the ELC's. I
> am wondering if I should just bypass the whole capaciter garbage. I would
> also appreciate knowing what the purpose of these capacitors is. I know
> electronics so feel free to go into detail. Thanks for your help
>
>
>                                          -ed
>
>
> CHECK TO SEE IF THE ELECTROLYTICS ARE POLARIZED OR NOT.  ANY ELECTROLY-
> TICS USED FOR CROSSOVERS SHOULD BE OF THE NON-POLARIZED VARIETY.  IF
> POLARIZED CAPACITORS ARE USED THEY WILL EVENTUALLY FAIL AND START TO
> "CRACKLE".  THIS IS DUE TO DIELECTRIC DAMAGE CAUSED BY REVERSE POLARITY
> SIGNALS BEING APPLIED TO THE CAPACITORS.  DUNNO IF THIS IS YOUR PROBLEM
> BUT YOU MIGHT WANT TO CHECK.
>
> THE CAPS WERE MOST LIKELY USED IN SERIES ON THE 4X6'S TO ACT AS A HIGH
> PASS FILTER.  THIS WOULD BLOCK THE LOW FREQ SIGNALS (MEANT FOR THE
> SUBWOOFER) FROM GOING TO THESE SPEAKERS.  IF ALL YOU ARE RUNNING NOW
> ARE THE 4X6'S, THEN YOU COULD REMOVE THE CAPS AND LET THE FULL AUDIO
> SIGNAL (ALL FREQS) GO TO THEM.

I disagree with your analysis.  If there are polarized caps in line, sure
they will sound awful.  However, no-one that knew to put caps in-line would
make that mistake.  ***************stuff deleted ****************
-Jason

After just returning from the Winter CES in Las Vegas where we found
installers that had no idea what a capacitor really is nor how it works
in a circuit (other than being a "bass blocker") it is very possible
someone could have put polarized electrolytics in the speaker lines.
I've seen it done...............Jay
From: kurnik@lds.loral.com (Timothy J. Kurnik)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Am I going deaf?
Date: 8 Jan 93 06:31:19 GMT
Reply-To: kurnik@lds.loral.com
Organization: Loral Data Systems

>Some I've questioned have said that I'm not pulling enough amps to warrant a bigger
>alternator.  Others have said that I could get a bigger alternator even if I wanted
                                      ^^^^^
                                      couldn't

>one.  They claim that many of the newer cars have computer chips which, among other
>things, expect the output of the alternator to be within a certain range.  If this
>is altered, it could damage the computer.  The dealer has no clue on this matter.

Sorry.  It's late.

SEE YA!

- T.J.
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car