Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Hardy Kiwi Pruning Tips Needed  
From: Dawn_Scotting@kcbbs.gen.nz (Dawn Scotting)
Date: 1 Oct 92 19:25:17 GMT
Organization: Kappa Crucis Unix BBS, Auckland, New Zealand

fease@dkas.enet.dec.com (Andrea Midtmoen Fease) writes:   
>     I have two Hardy Kiwis that are about 5 years old now.  They have *never
>bloomed, and are getting *huge*.  I pruned them back this spring, just a rand
>clip-and-snip (ouch!), and they came back bigger than ever.  Lots of growth, 
>lots of greenery, but no flowers and hence no fruit.  
>     These came in a package of three, two females and a male.  I *think* the
>male died, but I'm not sure (anyone know how to tell the difference?).  I wou
>think that even if he did, I should get flowers from the others??  
  
Kiwifruit (Actinidia chinensis - chinese gooseberry) do best in mild  
climates where there is moderate rainfall. They will tolerate winter  
frost, but spring frosts will harm the blossom buds. The vines grow  
strongly & climb by twining around supports. Male & female flowers are  
produced on separate plants which are indistinguishable until flowers  
bloom. Vines are most frequently propagated by budding or grafting the  
desired variety onto Kiwifruit seedling rootstocks. As a male vine can  
provide sufficient pollen to fertilise 5 to 10 female vines, where there  
is limited space in the home garden it is best to plant 1 or 2 females  
and graft a male scion onto one of them, once it is established. Mark  
the male part clearly & keep it well under control as male growth is  
more vigorous. Make sure that you choose a male scion which blossoms at  
the same time as the female plant.  
The soil should be light & well drained. Before planting, mix plenty of  
organic matter into the soil as the plants are heavy feeders. Annual  
fertilising should be increased as the plants mature. Plant the vines  
during winter, at least 6 metres apart. They will bear moderate crops of  
fruit four years after planting, reaching full productivity four years  
later. They will then crop heavily for many years.  
Do not allow the soil to dry out in summer. The vines have a shallow  
root system & a large leaf area & can be severely harmed by hot winds,  
especially if the soil is not kept moist.  
TRAINING & PRUNING - Winter & summer pruning is required each year or  
the vines will become unmanageable & fruit production will be poor. Do  
not leave winter pruning too late or the vine will probably 'bleed'-lose  
sap from the pruning cuts. Thin out excessive foliage as the  
fruit-bearing wood must be exposed to light. Fruit is only produced from  
the first three to six buds of current season's growth which arises from  
1-year-old canes, and pruning is done with this in mind. When growth  
commences after planting, train one strong shoot vertically. On reaching  
the central trellis wire, allow one leader to grow in each direction.  
Remove any side-shoots that grow from the main stem. Select canes about  
40cm apart along the leaders - these will become fruiting branches - &  
remove surplus growth. Fruiting side-shoots will later develop from  
these branches. On the bearing vine, remove unwanted shoots which  
develop early in the season. After fruit set remove any unfruitful  
shoots that will not be needed the following season, and just before  
mid-summer shorten fruit-bearing side-shoots to a point about 7 or 8  
buds beyond the last fruit. These are later cut back further & in winter  
are shortened again to leave 2 buds beyond where the last fruit was  
carried. A growth extension from 1 of these buds will be used for fruit  
production in the following growing season. When a fruiting branch needs  
replacing allow a cane to develop from near its junction with the leader  
& in winter remove the old branch.  
How to Harvest the Fruit - Fruit matures between autumn & winter. If  
picked when fully developed & firm the fruit will ripen in storage. If  
picked far too early, it will become shrivelled, & if a little too  
early, the flavour will not develop fully. Some fruit may be left to  
soften on the vine if pests are not a problem. The fruit will store well  
for up to 2 months in a cool place & longer in the refrigerator.  
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This is the only article I could find on kiwifruit and it really doesn't  
give you the answers you are looking for does it? As you can see your  
plants should be flowering (& fruiting if your male hasn't died) by now.  
Maybe it needs a good dose of fertiliser and a really hard prune back.  
We are having exactly the same problem as you although up until I read  
your message I thought we were just waiting for the first crop, I didn't  
realise it was only 4 years!! I'm sure our vines are older than that. If  
I find out anything I will let you know. Good luck.....  
   
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