From: corun@access.digex.com (Corun MacAnndra)
Subject: More on mead
Organization: Express Access Online Communications, Greenbelt, MD USA
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 18:45:22 GMT

I've gotten a request to post a metheglin recipe for those interested in
making it. First, let me go over basic mead making.

The first thing to do is sterilise the honey and water you're going to use. 
This will kill any unwanted bacteria and yeast that may already exist in 
them. Boiling is one method, though you may take away from the already
light flavour of the honey. Using sulphite in the form of Campden tablets is
also recommended. These can be gotten at any place that sells beer and
wine making supplies. Two tablets or 100 ppm is recommended for 1 
gallon (4.5 litres). Let the must sit for twenty four hours after adding the 
sulphite before you add the yeast, or you will kill the yeast. To my knowledge,
sulphite adds no flavour or any residual chemicals, but if you're worried
about producing as organic a mead as possible, then boil it. Just be careful
not to let it go too long.

You then adjust your mixture with acid and tannin. This is usually in the form
of grated lemon peel (use no pith as this adds too much bitterness) or the 
juice of two lemons for the acid, and a tesapoonful of powdered tea for tannin.
All this is per gallon (4.5 litres). Now add yeast or any yeast nutrients, and 
you're ready to begin fermentation.

Let the must ferment at a temperature of between 70 and 75 degrees f.
(21-24 C.) Do not ferment in metal containers. Use plastic or glass. Keep a
fermentation lock on the container, and when the water in the lock is level, 
the fermentaion is complete. Some recipes you may run into will refer to 
specific gravities when allowing you to add more honey or other ingredients. 
For this you will need a hydrometer, but this is not essential to making mead. 
You can be your own judge, and experimentation is half the fun for me. Add 
additional honey if required, the yeast can absorb it. For this, siphon off a 
bit of the must and disolve the honey in it, then add this back to the 
fermentation container. Shake the container a bit to mix the must well.

After fermentation is complete, rack the mead by siphoning it into another 
container. Be careful not to siphon off the sediment in the first container. 
You want the mead to be clear. You can top off the new container with water 
that has been boiled and cooled to avoid having any large air space. 
Alternately you can make a few pints extra of the must and add this to avoid 
diluting the mead. Add a Campden tablet (one per gallon) and fit the new jug 
with a fermentation lock. Subsequent rackings should occur every three to four 
months or as soon as a heavy deposit forms, whichever comes first. After the 
first racking, you need only add sulphite at 50 ppm (or one tablet per gallon),
and you only need to do this every other racking, but can be done at each if
you prefer. In this way the mead matures over the required time. Light meads 
can mature in 1-3 years, while heavier ones take up to eight years to hit peak 
You can mature the mead in a cask, but this is only recommended when making 
10 gallons (45 litres) or more, or too much oxidation can occur.


That's basic mead making. Now on to the recipe for metheglin.

3 lb honey
1 gallon water
peel of one lemon
juice of two lemons (or 1/4 oz. Tartaric acid and 1/2 oz. Malic acid)
yeast (wine yeast as opposed to brewers yeast)
yeast nutrients
tannin (in the form of strong tea)
Up to an ounce each per gallon of your favourite herbs (this is where you 
get creative).

Metheglin is a bit more difficult to produce than mead, and you may wish to 
start with less than an ounce of herbs and add more later during the maturing
process. Also, some hazing may occur, and you can use a finning agent to 
clear this. This can also be gotten through the supplier of your wine making
tools.

Dissolve the honey in some of the water. Add the acid, lemon peel, herbs and
nutrients, and suphite 100 ppm (two Campden tablets). After 24 hours, add the 
yeast starter. After four days, strain off the herbs and peel and continue 
fermentation until gravity drops to approximately 5. Rack and sulphite 50 ppm 
(one Campden tablet) and continue as described above.

This is a very basic method, and if you want more detail, you should pick up a 
book on making mead. The book I'm using is called _Making Mead_, and is by
Bryan Acton, and Peter Duncan. It's published by G.W.Kent, Inc., 3691 Morgan
Rd. Ann Arbor, MI 48108. Your supplier should be able to get this book, but 
keep in mind it's not the only one out there, and should not be construed as a
definitive text. 

Experiment, have fun, and let's plan an alt.pagan millenium gathering so we can
sample each other's brews. See you in 1999.

Bb,
Corun
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    Corun MacAnndra    |    My opinions *are* those of my boss, because
  Dark Horde by birth  |   he is me, and I am he, and we are all together.
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