HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: wybo@adi.com (Dave Wybo)
Subject: plant database
Organization: Applied Dynamics
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 15:32:33 GMT

To those of you that are interested, the only plant type database that I was 
able to find was a package called "sprout", which contains info pertaining to
vegetable gardening.  One of the respondents to my original post mentioned it,
and later, I found it in one of the PC software catalogs.

I have not found any public database on perennials/flowers/wildflowers.

The Clearinghouse of the National Wildflower Research Center has quite an
extensive native plant database that they maintain.  One can request info 
about native plants in a given state, but they will send you only hardcopy.

I asked when/if they might make the entire database available, and they said
that they talk about it every so often, but its not likely to happen in the
near future.

Okay, so I want to create a CD-ROM with my database on it.  I want to include
the following data

Genus
Species
Family
Common Names
Type (Perennial, Annual, Biennial)
General description of Plant
Description of Flower
Picture of Flower
Description of Leaf
Description of Fruit
Picture of Seed Pods
Plant Height
Plant Spacing
Flowering Season
Habitat - Soil
Habitat - Sunlight
Hardiness Zones
Picture of Range Map
Propagation Methods
Ease of propagation
Availability in U.S.
Related Species
Companion Plants 
Medicinal Plant Uses
Additional Comments

You will notice some references to pictures.  I want this database to contain
images.  Now, which PC package will do this?  Is this something that is 
appropriate for a MAC hypercard stack?  or should I stick with an off-the-shelf
RDMS?  Any comments?  Any other info you would like to see in this database?
-- 
--
Dave Wybo  Milford Wildflowers, P.O. Box 83, New Hudson, MI 48165-0083
(313) 685-7555  Reachable at: wybo@adi.com
--
From: fiddler@concertina.Eng.Sun.COM (steve hix)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Cure for Moles?
Date: 6 Jan 1993 19:30:44 GMT
Organization: Sun
Distribution: pnw
NNTP-Posting-Host: concertina

In article <1993Jan5.032503.17365@eskimo.com> hnoble@eskimo.com (Henry Noble) writes:
>
>Suddenly our yard is beset by a mole.  Ugly mounds in the
>vegetable garden and the lawn.  

Mounds?  Not tunneling just under the surface (so you can
follow the whole tunnel by eye)?

If all you can see are a couple of mounds where the beast can
enter/exit the underground, I think you've got a pocket gopher
(or relative), and not a mole.

Moles are insectivores.  Untidy, but not much of a threat to
your veggies.  The pocket gopher (and his pals) will eat your
veggies (and flowers), given half a chance.

My son treated our last mole to trumpet blasts...the mole left
the vicinity within a day or so...wish the gopher that moved in
later had been so accomodating.

I was sorry to see the mole go, actually...they're pretty nifty,
sort of like underground bats.

Local cats seem to like trying to catch them at night when they
come out to dance on the lawn.  Or something.


--
-------------------------------------------------------
| Some things are too important not to give away      |
| to everybody else and have none left for yourself.  |
|------------------------ Dieter the car salesman-----|
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: awootten@slacktide.cv.nrao.edu (Al Wootten)
Subject: Pepper seed source
Organization: nrao
Distribution: rec.gardens
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 15:32:40 GMT

I'm just about to place my order for this summer's Capiscum sp. crop and
thought I would post the address for my favorite source:

The Pepper Gal
Jenny Jacks
P. O. Box 12534
Lake Park FL 33403-0534

120 varieties of hot peppers listed, 58 varieties of sweet peppers, and
38 varieties of ornamentals.  $1.25/pack, $2.25 mixed packs.  Names
only listed.

--
+--------------------------------------------__---------+
| Alwyn  Wootten  (awootten@nrao.edu) 	     \/	GBT	|
| National Radio Astronomy Observatory        ^         |
| 520 Edgemont Road, Charlottesville, VA 22903-2475, USA|
| (804)-296-0329 voice  Let's build The Millimeter Array|
| (804)-296-0278 FAX           {>    {>    {>    {>     |
+------------------------------^-----^-----^-----^------+
From: rahimi@vax.sonoma.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Question on deer proof plants
Date: 9 Jan 93 00:27:27 GMT
Organization: Sonoma State University

I'd appreciate any info on the types of flowers, shrubs and trees 
that are of no interest to deer.  Also about deer proof bulbs?
From: lynx@surrey.amigans.gen.nz (Lynsey Gedye)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re:  Potted vegetables, ideas needed.
Date: 6 Jan 93 23:07:09 GMT-12
Distribution: world
Organization: Prime Line, Wanganui, New Zealand

In article <BzFHG7.1D9@dale.cts.com> npm@dale.cts.com (Nancy Milligan) writes:
>Does anyone know if it's feasible to grow potatos in a pot?  That might
>be kind of fun.

  Yes, yer basic spud is an excellent container plant.  What other
  plant gives you foliage, flowers, berries then tubers you can eat
  and still have some left over to replant next year.  What I want
  to know is, why would anyone want to grow african violets? =;)

  I've used two methods for growing spuds in pots...

  Method one: (You could write a program like this...)
  Start - drop a used tyre on a slab of concrete.  Dump in dirt.
  Add potatoh or two. Fertilise to suit.  Water.  When shoots show...
  
  Add a used tyre.  Dump in dirt.  Fertilise to suit.  When shoots show...
  Repeat.  Eventually I used up the tyres I had (four), finished off the
  top with more dirt, and let the spuds get on with it.

  Come harvesting time, you can either remove spuds layer at a time,
  or "dig" the lot.  Worked well.  Could've been the black tyres
  attracting extra warmth, the insulation of the air in the gaps
  not properly filled, or maybe the spuds liked the idea of being
  four on the floor, and did late-night impersonations of James Dean
  in "Rebel without a Cause".

  Method two:
  I used a metre long 20cm diameter unglazed terracotta drainage pipe.
  Stood the pipe on a concrete slab.  Dumped in dirt, added spuds.
  Kept topping up as the shoots appeared.  Finished off as per the 
  tyre method.  Had to be more careful with the watering - the 'cotta
  being a bit of a terror with evaporation.   Again, worked well, but
  at harvest we had to "dig" the whole pipe full at once.

  My Dad, a spud grower from way back, was rather skeptical of my
  experiments, but was very impressed with the spuds from the pipe.
  Best he'd ever seen, he said.  That was pretty much like getting
  the Academy Award on Christmas Day in Heaven for me...

  That's the how.  Now the why.  Plant whizzo's will know more about
  this than I do, but I believe it's easy to produce new varieties
  of spud - you could develop your own custom spud.  True or not?
  Kay?  My Dad developed a spud, grew it from seed, and named it 
  Kamahi - the name of the creek that runs through our land. It's a 
  nice spud, about the size of a fist (convenient to peel) has shallow
  eyes, and keeps well.  Probably not stable in seed, but hey, that's
  what vegetative propagation was invented for.

  The other why is, it sticks it to the man.  I'm not held at the 
  mercy of the grocery trade for the varieties the trade wishes me to
  eat, sprayed with GKW (God knows what), the *real* cost of which we
  cannot easily find...

--
           lynx@surrey.amigans.gen.nz    lynx@amigans.gen.nz
From: cusanell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Dominic Cusanelli)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Seedlings under lights and legginess
Date: 7 Jan 93 13:13:01 GMT
Reply-To: cusanell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Dominic Cusanelli)
Distribution: na
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

>
>Hi Dominic,
>
>I was wondering if you could let me know what you do...

>What sort of medium do you use to start your seeds?  What sort of
>containers do you use?
>
I start all my seeds in those seed starter trays with the 36 or so
small compartments (I usually start 4 complete trays).  The soil I
use is simply 1/2 regular potting soil and 1/2 seed-starter soil.
I fill the cups with this to roughly 3/4 full - then plant the seeds
and top off to the desired depth with seed starter soil only.  Then
the trays go on top of the fridge to sprout.  - by the way ALWAYS
plant seeds that will sprout at the same time in the same container.
When the plants get about an inch tall the tray goes to a south 
facing windowsill - I've never used grow lights.
>
>How big are the pots that you finally take out to plant your tomatoes?
>
When the tomatoe plants are approx 6 inches tall I plant them in 5 oz
dixie cups.  Clip off the lowest leaves and plant them right up to 
the bottom leaves.  When they reach 6 - 8 inches tall again, I 
replant them (again clipping off lower leaves and deep planting them)
in 12 oz tall plastic cups.  These are sometimes hard to find so start
looking now.  At last, with a select few plants, I deep plant once
more into quart sized milk cartons. (I select 2 or 3 plants of each
tomatoe type I grow).  These select plants are perhaps 2 FEET tall
when they hit the garden!
>
>What do you use to water your seedlings?  Have you ever used liquid
>kelp solutions?
>
Kelp? I've never seen a tomatoe growing underwater (Ha Ha)
I use water only untill the first replanting.  Then I water once
weekly with Miracle Grow, and additional waterings as needed are 
just tap water.  I do mist the plants with water also.
>
>stuff deleted
>
>Anyway, any advice that you have will be *most* welcome since I'm
>making do with what I can manage in my limited circumstances, and
>learning as I go.
>
Remember to harden off the plants before they go in the garden.  I
do this for a week:  I put the plants on the table on my deck
under the open umbrella (which is one of those mesh types).  For 
the first couple nights I bring them back inside.  After that I
leave them on the deck 
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Merri

GOOD LUCK AND GOOD GROWING

Dominic
From: rcm@col.hp.com (hpctdfc)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Horticulture Magazine
Date: 11 Jan 1993 17:54:25 GMT
Organization: where?
NNTP-Posting-Host: hpctdfc.col.hp.com

I just received an offer for a free issue of _Horticulture_
magazine.  Can anybody give me a review or offer feelings/good
experiences/bad experiences about it?
Thanks...

Rick
rcm@col.hp.com
Colorado Springs, CO

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: bchamber@vlin1.vsla.edu (Bill Chamberlain)
Subject: Re: Too late to plant daffodils?
Organization: Virginia State Library
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 14:12:51 GMT

last time I had this problem I put the bulbs in the freezer for
2 weeks.  They nearly all grew.  Did better the second year.

Bill Chamberlain
bchamber@vsla.leo.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: carnes@ico.isc.com (Steve Carnes)
Subject: Re:  topiary and other garden decorations - long answer
Organization: Interactive Systems Corp., Boulder CO
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 15:34:30 GMT

	lynx@surrey.amigans.gen.nz (Lynsey Gedye) writes:
>  If you do decide to make a large topiary, perhaps you might like to
>  make one in my likeness.  I modestly propose that while topiary in
>  the shape of the human figure is ok, in the shape of *my* figure
>  would be simply outstanding.

Would also serve as quite a windbreak.
-- 
Steve Carnes       carnes@ico.isc.com        uucp: {ncar,nbires}!ico!carnes
   "Rock gives reality to the otherwise abstract notion of transhuman
    time." - Edward Abbey
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: dsegelho@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Diane Segelhorst)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Too late to plant daffodils?
Date: 5 Jan 93 19:31:18 GMT
Reply-To: dsegelho@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Diane Segelhorst)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Annapolis Detachment, CDNSWC

Is it too late to plant daffodils?

We recently moved.  I dug up a lot of daffodil bulbs that needed to
be separated, intending to plant them at the new house in November.
But the builder got delayed...  but that's another story.  In any case,
we didn't move in until Christmas.  Can I still put the bulbs in the
ground and expect them to come up, or should I save myself the effort?
I'm in Maryland.  The ground has frozen and thawed a few times so far.
I think last year we had a warm spell in February and my daffodils started
coming up then.

Diane Segelhorst
dsegelho@oasys.dt.navy.mil
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: cusanell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Dominic Cusanelli)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Source for Holy Basil
Date: 4 Jan 93 11:43:49 GMT
Reply-To: cusanell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Dominic Cusanelli)
Distribution: na
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD


   I'm interested to know more about this holy basil.  I've
never heard of it.  Could you give me a little info please.
Thanks.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: MWORKMAN@vm.cc.purdue.edu
Subject: New gardener
Organization: Purdue University
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 22:21:27 GMT

My husband and I are new to the gardening scene.  Last year we planted a garden
 but it was a total failure. (Well, not total failure.  We did get 4 green bean
s and 4 yellow squash.)  We live in Lafayette, IN (Northwest area of Indiana) a
nd waited until the first week of June to plant the seeds.  We planted corn (be
ing new to Indiana we were told we HAD to plant corn), green beans, broccoli, p
otatoes, yellow squash and carrots.  The corn did grow and you could see little
 ears of corn but nothing matured.  The green bean plants got little holes all
over the leaves.  The broccoli sprouted but did not go much further.  The potat
oes grew plants and when pulled out had little tiny potatoes on them (I guess t
here wasn't enough time for them to grow).  The squash grew fine, no problem
(We planted them between the rows of corn).  The carrots grew into very tiny ca
rrots, nothing you could eat.  What did we do wrong?  Or I guess I should ask,
what can I do this year to make it do better?  I was thinking of either startin
g the garden from plants bought at a garden center or starting the seeds inside
.  This is what we would like to plant this year:
                          broccoli
                          corn
                          cauliflower
                          squash
                          onions
                          carrots
                          anything else that may be easy and good
I would appreciate any suggestions anyone may have.  However, do not tell me
to read a book because I did check out a few books at the library and followed
the instructions.
 
Thanks,
Maggie
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: jareed@rodan.acs.syr.edu (Judith Ann Reed)
Subject: Re: Questions concerning SALSIFY/VEGETABLE OYSTER
Keywords: Yum, Yum!
Organization: Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 93 16:02:21 EST

I tried these one year. Didn't know about the poor soil preference, will
have to remember that, just grew them in regular garden soil here in 
Central N.Y. Not amazing production, but enough in 2 short rows for a few meals.
I don't recall if I peeled them or not, but I battered them and deep fried,
and I thought they were remarkably like oysters, an acceptable substitute
for something I can't afford anyway! Very good!!!
From: Val.Gillman@altern8.mi.org (Val Gillman)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Source for Holy Basil
Date: 7 Jan 93 01:26:00 GMT
Article-I.D.: altern8.726623235.0

>Newsgroups: rec.gardens

>Some time ago, someone had posted the address of a mail-order source
>for this plant.
>Can someone email me this information or post it?  Thanks a bunch.

Plants:Well-Sweep Herb Farm
            317 Mt. Bethel Rd.         Page 7
            Port Murray, N.J. 07865

Seeds: Nichols Garden Nursery
       1190 North Pacific Highway     Page 4
       Albany, Oregon 97321-4598

       Park Seed Co                   Page 23
       Cokesbury Rd.
       Greenwood, S.C. 29647-0001

 * XXYW 1.12 * Philosophy is a walk on the slippery rocks.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: jam@chapln.enet.dec.com (Joe Micozzi)
Subject: Peppers from seed in New England
Reply-To: jam@chapln.enet.dec.com
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 18:53:44 GMT


--

Has any had any luck growing pepper plants from seeds??  I live in New England
so I am especially interested if any one from New England has had any luck.  

The catalog say's 70-80 day's which is the summer around here.


*******************************************************************************

	There are only three constants in bicycle riding

		1) Bikes don't win races, people do.
		2) There's always a headwind.
		3) There's never enough time to ride.

*********************************************************************************
jam@chapln.enet.dec.com
*********************************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: fred@mks.com (Fred Kratky)
Subject: Re: Pond underwater plants
Organization: Mortice Kern Systems Inc., Waterloo, Ontario, CANADA
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 20:57:26 GMT

In article <27753@sybase.sybase.com> karenp@sybase.com (Karen Paulsell) writes:
>
>My house came with a rather greenish little concrete pondlet, a real
>bonus, with water lilies and goldfish too! I didn't do a whole lot

>This year, the "Parrot's Feather" that I planted a couple years
>ago really took off, and the pond is the clearest it has been in
>the four years I've lived here: I think that's it's because the
>plant is competing with the algae for the nutrients. Opinions?
>
Probably.  Any plant that sends roots into the water, or absorbs
nutrients mainly through its leaves (hornwart) will take nutrients
directly out of the water.

-- 
     ||  // // ,'/~~\'   Fred Kratky		fred@mks.com 
    /||/// //|' `\\\     Mortice Kern Systems Inc.     (519) 884-2251
   / | //_// ||\___/     35 King St. N., Waterloo, Ont., Can. N2J 2W9
From: djd@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (david.j.daulton)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Preparing Clay Soil for Planting
Date: 5 Jan 93 14:35:06 GMT
Organization: AT&T

>when I build I'm going to insist
>that the topsoil doesn't leave the property.

Even that may not be enough.  You may need to ask the builder to
scrape the top soil to one side, and put it back after building.
Otherwise, some builders dig the basement or foundation, and dump
the excavated clay on top of the top soil.  At one home I was
digging a hole to put in a basketball hoop, and found rich loam
4' down.

Dave Daulton, Columbus, Ohio
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: psmith@alfred.carleton.ca (Peter Smith)
Subject: selling tomato plants
Organization: Carleton University
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 16:56:15 GMT

Hi

I'm doing some market gardening, and I am considering selling some of
my surplus tomato/pepper starters.  Any recommendations from
experienced people would be appreciated.  

I am especially interested in:

* # pots per pak; size of pots; and whether to use peat-type or
plastic

* any vegetable plants that sell well in the spring other than
pepper/tomato

Thanks in advance!
From: tkpowell@tekgen.bv.tek.com (Terry Powell)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Cure for Moles?
Date: 6 Jan 93 19:50:39 GMT
Organization: Tektronix, Inc.

My cure for moles and gophers is CATS.  I've got 4 of them, 2 of which are
'super hunters'.  I used to have terrible problems, especially with large
gophers.  No more.  One negative is they like to bring them into the house
along with snakes and an occasional bird.  Oh well, there's always tradeoffs.

--Terry


-- 

Terry Powell       Email - Terry.K.Powell@tek.com       Portland,Or
From: ceci@lysator.liu.se (Cecilia Henningsson)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Fuchsia seed pods
Keywords: fuchsia, seeds
Date: 4 Jan 93 19:44:19 GMT
Organization: Lysator ACC at Linkoping University

I have a fuchsia on my window sill. It flowers all the time and on the
whole I'm very satisfied with it. Currently it has a seed pod that I
was thinking of using. It is turning red and swollen so I think it's
ripe now. 

My questions are: 

* Do I have to do anything with the pod before I can sow it?

* How many seeds are there normally in a fuchsia seed pod? 

* How true will the babies be to the parent?

--Ceci

--
"They're justified and they're ancient and they like to roam the land,
 they don't want to upset the apple cart and they don't want to do any harm,
 but if you don't like what they're going to do, 
 you better not stand in the way, course they're coming through!" The KLF
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: psmith@alfred.carleton.ca (Peter Smith)
Subject: Re: Worms and Home Composting in Winter
Organization: Carleton University
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 16:32:39 GMT

Harrowsmith and Organic Gardening both published some excellent
articles on this topic within the last year.  I'll see if I can find
them.

If not, you might try asking them for back issues on this topic.

As for local suppliers, try your local PIRG (public interest research
group), green groups or even the city.  In Ottawa, the municipal
government's composter subsidy program extends to vermicomposters as
well, meaning big savings$$$.

bye
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: mnb@mira.ca.boeing.com (Mike Burr)
Subject: Re: Preparing Clay Soil for Planting
Organization: BoGART Graphics Development
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 23:25:43 GMT

>In article <1992Dec29.184101.19659@gvl.unisys.com> garyp@rmtc.paramax.com (Gary Palangian [RMTC/ISP]) writes:
>>Hey Now Everybody,
>>
>>    Construction on my new house will be complete in a couple of
>>months.  My family has all kinds of grandiose plans for the
>>backyard landscape.  The house is in the Denver, CO area and
>>the soils are very heavy (a lot of clay).  To make matters
>>worse, the builder removed and discarded the top
>>18" of soil during construction.
>

Actually, I bet he didn't "discard" it.... any bets that he's got a sweet
deal with some nursery???  Pretty slimy - when I build I'm going to insist
that the topsoil doesn't leave the property.


-- 
Michael Burr  Boeing Computer Services, Bellevue WA
              Email:mnb@voodoo.ca.boeing.com
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: kathleen@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Kathleen Much)
Subject: Re: Cranberry bush
Organization: Center for Advanced Study in the Behavioral Sciences
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 02:03:21 GMT

In article <C0pox4.IvB@news.cso.uiuc.edu> seeley@cerl.uiuc.edu (Joseph Seeley) writes:
>I'm looking for a screening plant (7-8 ft).  A couple of places list
>a cranberry bush that looks promising -- right height (though I don't
>know how long it will take to get there), various colors during the
>year (white flowers, fall foliage), and edible berries.  Since I don't
>need screening in the winter, this could work.  What's the downside?
>Berries aren't that useful?  Crops pretty small?  Takes 20 years to
>reach full height?  My edible landscaping book covers only the bog-type
>cranberry.

To be very helpful, we need to know where you are, what kind of soil
you have, and your light conditions (full sun, shade, etc.).
Cranberries need dampness and acid soil.

-- 
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Kathleen Much, Editor		|E-mail: kathleen@casbs.stanford.EDU
CASBS, 202 Junipero Serra Blvd.	|Phone: (415) 321-2052
Stanford, CA  94305		|Fax: (415) 321-1192
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: TROUTMAN@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu
Subject: Re: e Magazine
Organization: C.C.S.O.
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 18:46:44 GMT

 
I took them up on the free issue of *Horitculture*.  I've been
buying it at the grocery store for about a year and really like
it; I look forward to each issue.  My gardening experience is
limited (but growing -- pardon the pun :-)  ) and some of the
articles are sometimes over my head.  But, I would rather expand
my understanding (i.e., learn a latin name or two) and have
something to strive after than simply read a rehash of gardening
basics.
 
Leslie Troutman
UIUC Music Library
 
P.S.  I was, however, a bit disappointed in the instructions for
building a simple cold frame in the last issue.  They really weren't
detailed enough -- it was a bit like saying, "To build a coldframe --
you build a coldframe."  (Just do it!)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens