HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: clarke@watson.ibm.com (Ed Clarke)
Subject: Router Alternative (Was propeller)
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 20:00:03 GMT
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research
Keywords: shaper

In article <4031@moscom.UUCP>, de@moscom.UUCP (David Esan) writes:
|> In article <KEVIN.92Aug26113658@bremerer.cs.adelaide.edu.au> kevin@cs.adelaide.edu.au (Kevin Maciunas) writes:
|> Okay, so a 3.5 inch panel raising bit is dangerous.  What are the 
|> alternatives?

Use a shaper instead.  The Delta light duty version is $419, the better
medium duty version is $695 and the heavy duty version is $1659.  All
prices are from Woodworkers Supply and include shipping.  I'm thinking
of getting the medium duty version.

The cost of a new router is about $200 (Ryobi RE-600) and a table is
another $170.  ($370 + shipping) vs $419 postpaid .... hmmmmmmmm.  The
3.5 inch Freud router bit is about $50, a 4.92 inch UC-210 shaper bit
is $110.

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: tomj@monster.saic.com (Tom Johnson)
Subject: Re: Delta EMS (was Re: Incra jigs)
Reply-To: tomj@monster.saic.com (Tom Johnson)
Organization: SAIC, McLean, VA
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 92 15:16:36 GMT

In article <BtyE7t.2Ax@news.larc.nasa.gov> price@ab00.larc.nasa.gov (Mac Price) writes:
>
>BTW, I use my EMS on my Delta Unisaw with 52" Unifence.
>
>Mac Price

Does the EMS work on other fences?  How about other brands of saws?
From: clarke@acme.ucf.edu (Thomas Clarke)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Collect'm, Trade'm
Date: 3 Sep 92 15:36:11 GMT
Article-I.D.: cs.1992Sep3.153611.22339
Organization: University of Central Florida

Have a Craftsman Bench-Top Table Saw trading card (#17).

Am willing to trade for Band Saw.

--
Thomas Clarke
Institute for Simulation and Training, University of Central FL
12424 Research Parkway, Suite 300, Orlando, FL 32826
(407)658-5030, FAX: (407)658-5059, clarke@acme.ucf.edu
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: Water and Wood: A beginner's question
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 01:30:38 GMT

brill@unagi.cis.upenn.edu (Eric Brill) writes:
: 
: I'm new to woodworking.  This weekend, I tried to make a maple cutting board.
: I edge glued two pieces of 4/4 maple together, and then routed a cove along the
: sides.  I finished the piece with a nut-oil finish.  Then came the problem.  I
: figured that I had better raise the grain and sand it down again so when I gave
: the board away it would remain smooth after washing.  So, twice I briefly
: soaked the board in water and sanded it down.  I later noticed that this caused
: the board to cup considerably.  Could somebody please tell me what I did wrong?
: If the water caused the board to cup, how can I raise the grain without causing
: this to happen, and how can I protect the board from cupping when the future
: user decides to wash it?  Thanks,

Did you finish the entire board, or just one side, with the not-oil finish?
Usually,  boards cup when they dry unevenly. If only one surface was finished,
then that surface would not dry as fast as the other, and the board will tend
to cup toward the unfinished  surface.

You can reduce cupping by using quarter-sawn stock.

To raise the grain, you do not need to soak the wood, only dampen it with
a cloth. You do this before applying any finish. Once all the grain is raised
and sanded smooth, then you apply the food grade finish. Apply the finish to
all surfaces. 

Tell the user not to soak the board in water. Wash it with a soap filled
sponge, then rinse as briefly as possible.  If the board is sealed properly,
a quick wipedown and rinse on occasion is all that will be necessary. It
also will be necessary to renew the finish periodically - depending on how
much it is used.

Bill
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,rec.autos.tech
From: lws@s1.gov (Lee W. Spencer)
Subject: Re: Air Compressor Wisdom
Originator: lws@s1.gov
Organization: Lawrence Livermore National Lab
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 00:40:10 GMT


Rather than putting a drain valve directly on the bottom of your tank,
put a couple of feet of 3/4 inch pipe so the water will sit in the pipe
rather than in the bottom of your tank until you drain it.  Let the
throw-away piece of pipe rust instead of your tank.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: hollen@megatek.UUCP (Dion Hollenbeck)
Subject: Re: Incra or Leigh?
Organization: Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 17:19:16 GMT

>>>>> On 1 Sep 92 05:53:03 GMT, sjc@cs.purdue.EDU (Steve Chapin) said:

Steve> The Incra can be used to make dovetails, but that isn't its primary
Steve> purpose.  It is a versatile gadget to which you can affix a jig or
Steve> fence, and make repetitive cuts.  The Leigh will make dovetails
Steve> faster, but that's it (provided, of course, that I'm thinking of the
Steve> right jig, no mean assumption in my present mental state :-).

Steve> Both of them are wonderful, provided you know what you're getting.  It
Steve> takes extra setup and equipment to cut dovetails with the incra, but
Steve> you can also use it for precise settings of your router table fence,
Steve> etc.

I originally purchased the standard Incra Jig, and about 1 year later,
went to an Incra Jig class and also purchased the Pro.  I "retired" my
standard Incra Jig to be used as an X-Y positioner on my drill press
and it works out wonderfully.

As I related in personal mail to another poster, I originally bought
it for doing little boxes with finger joints and dovetails, but since
then I mostly have used it for everything but.  I have also attached
it to my table saw  and used it for precision ripping.  It is so much
more than a dovetail jig, that that name is truly a misnomer.

-- 
Dion Hollenbeck       UUCP: {uunet, ucsd, sun}!megatek!hollen
                      INTERNET:            hollen@megatek.com
Megatek Corporation  9645 Scranton Rd.  San Diego, Ca.  92121
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Smoothing edges from a table saw cut(HOW?)
Date: 25 Aug 92 19:48:50 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA

patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie) writes:
: >>jhp@sactoh0.sac.ca.us (Jim H. Puga) writes:
: >>: I've started my bookcase project and have a question.  I cut my
: >>: pieces a little bigger than needed and figured I would straighten
: >>: out the edges by some other means(I didn't want to try and do
: >>: exact cuts on the table saw).
: 
: So far I've seen just about every power tool mentioned in this thread
: except a jackhammer.
: 
: What's this aversion to a plane? You only have to lay the board on a flat
: surface and the plane on it's side and make a couple of passes with that
: and you're done.

You will notice that I mentioned a hand plane as one of the options in my
reply.

Bill
From: coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM (Chip Coffin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Incra jigs
Date: 2 Sep 1992 15:58:28 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems
Distribution: world
Reply-To: coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: surfin

Has anyone ever used incra-jigs in tandem?

I could see two benefits:

1) it would double the length of travel

2) If properly set up you could get repeatability to the 1/64".


Just a thought....


chip

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: wood@rtsg.mot.com (Dan Wood)
Subject: Re: need belt sander recomendation
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 13:34:57 GMT

   I wouldn't buy one without at least looking at the
Bosch 3x21 (or 24?) unit.  Low profile, light, very
comfortable feel.  I've been considering it: has anyone
out there used one?

   Good move on avoid Sears, with the possible exception
of their brand-names in disguise.  I have a 3x21 Crapman
that still works (poorly).  Maybe if I drip some acid
into the bearings... :)

-- 
*********************************************************************************
*	Dan Wood   Motorola Inc.	*	 Moto and I disclaim       	*
*	wood@rtsg.mot.com 		*	 everything in this post.	*
*********************************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: corwin@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (carl.w.smedberg)
Subject: Re: Soffit vents.
Summary: attic ventilation
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 20:56:09 GMT

When my wife and I built our new house about 2 years ago our carpenter
suggested against the continuous soffit vent. Not only are they much
harder to install because you essentially have 2 soffit boards but
they also take more time. Time is money and a few more rectangular
vents will work equally well. We also opted out of the ridge vent
because of the hipped roof. We did install a power ventilator
and I recommend one to everyone even if you have to pay someone
to come in and install it. Our house stays much cooler during the
summer and it definitely saves on the electric bill. It will
pay for itself. My recommendation is rectangular soffit vents,
standard roof vents and a power attic ventilator on the roof or
at a north or east gable end. Let us know what you decide!

Oh yea, the aluminum facia and soffit may also be good idea but
they didn't really fit it well with the style of our house. 

Carl Smedberg @ AT&T in beautiful Lisle Illinois
att!ihlpm!corwin
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: BANDSAW INFO REQUIRED
Date: 28 Aug 92 15:31:30 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <1992Aug27.144552.3593@mksol.dseg.ti.com> landers@wilma.dseg.ti.com writes:
>I recently (about 3 months ago) got myself a Delta 14" BS.  I am VERY happy 
>with it.

>I thought about the Taiwan brands, but I wasn't sure about the quality, as
>most of them seem (to me) to be reverse-engineering jobs of Delta and others (by
>this I mean that they bought a Delta, measured it, and started building, without
>any of the original design thought process or tolerancing specifications).
>Now, before I get too many flames on this, I know that I'm not being entirely  
>fair, but it was enough for me to spend the extra money on something I can 
>keep for a while and get parts for.  It was also important to me to be able to
>go to my local hardware/home-center/woodworking stores to see more than a picture
>in a catalog (even if I didn't buy from them).

I'm not completely sure about the Delta 14" (it seems to be one of the older
designs), but Delta has many of their low to mid-range tools built by those
very same Taiwan companies.  What you think is "reverse engineered" is often
the very same tool off the very same assembly line - differing only in paint
job or minor details like type of power switch.  Now, Delta may be doing
*some* Q/A, and selecting the better quality ones, but that doesn't necessarily
mean that any off-brand unit you see is a Delta reject - it could just as easily
be a unit surplus to Delta's ordering level.

Rexon is one of the largest companies, and a lot of its tools end up with
Delta nameplates.  I have a Rexon scroll-saw, and the only difference between
it and the Delta is paint job and nameplate.

Which also implies that you can use Delta as a source of parts for many of the
Taiwanese units.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: CAREFUL WITH THAT PROPELLER!!!!
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: world, na, usa
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 21:32:15 GMT

Joseph Boykin writes
> In article <1992Aug27.160551.829@adobe.com>, bennett@adobe.com (Bennett  
Leeds) writes:
> |> Mount the router upside down in a table. It's a lot safer. When hand held, 
> |> riding along the edge of a board, more than half the router's weight is  
not 
> |> over the wood, so it's easy to tip the router - which can be dangerous.
> 
> I won't argue against the merits of a router table -- I definately
> prefer one to hand-holding a router.  However this posting, and a bunch
> of private email I've recieved in the past week has me confused.
> 
> Why is it that so few people seemed to have figured out that
> you can use another piece of wood parallel to the one you are
> edge routing whose sole job is to support the "other half" of the
> router? ...


Remember the original post concerns use of panel raising bit. 

Even for less extreme routing, there can be other difficulties with this 
technique:
1) You need a flat work surface, and then a piece of wood the same thickness 
   as the one you're edge routing. 
2) If the support piece is too close to the workpiece (within 2" for the panel 
   raisers we're talking about), you'll end up routing the support piece 
   itself - so you've got to clamp it. If you need multiple passes to get to
   the final depth, you better be sure you've also taken those multiple
   passes on the support piece.
3) If the workpiece has a curved edge, the support piece must also have a curve 
   that more or less matches that curve. You may be able to use offcuts from
   the band or jig saw cut, but typically the offcut is not a single piece.
4) With some bits, the bottom of the bit (usually an allen head screw holding 
   the bearing in place) would protrude below the workpiece, so either the 
   workpiece has to be raised, or the routing is done with the edge hanging off 
   the edge of the workbench. In the latter case, where does the support piece 
   go?

You don't want to hand hold a router spinning a 3.5" diameter bit, even at
the router's slow speed, even with a support piece (if feasible) in place - at 
least I don't.
From: miken@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com (Mike Nickerson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Library shelf and ladder information?
Date: 28 Aug 92 21:24:04 GMT
Organization: Hewlett Packard - Boise, ID


 I would like to know if anyone has plans and sources for hardware
 for the old-fashioned library shelves with the ladder.  The 
 type of shelves with the brass bar at the top that the ladder
 rolls on.  They are often in old movies in libraries or book
 stores.

 Again, any source for plans and/or hardware would be much 
 appreciated.  Post or email is fine.  I will summarize.

 Mike Nickerson
 miken@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com
From: pollak@griffin (Tom Pollak)
Subject: Plans for horse carriages
Organization: University of Vermont -- Division of EMBA Computer Facility
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1992 21:43:14 GMT

	Anyone out there have any clues as to where one
	might find plans to build authentic horse 
	carriages / sleighs ? Excuse the lack of
	specifics, the info is for someone else -- yea
	thats it -- someone else! I play with celluloid.

	Thanks all ------------------------------- Tom.
From: todd.paulus%theweb@meaddata.com (Todd Paulus) 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Smoothing edges from a ta
Date: 28 Aug 92 23:02:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: The Web BBS 1-513-436-9011 6 Lines 1200 News groups 50,000 files!
Reply-To: todd.paulus%theweb@meaddata.com (Todd Paulus) 

To: jhp@sactoh0.sac.ca.us,rec.woodworking


   .Subject: Smoothing edges from a table saw cut(HOW?)
   .Message-ID: <1992Aug24.021610.24807@sactoh0.sac.ca.us>
   .Date: 24 Aug 92 02:16:10 GMT
   .Reply-To: jhp@sactoh0.SAC.CA.US (Jim H. Puga)

(Jim H. Puga) writes:

JHP.I've started my bookcase project and have a question.  I cut my
   .pieces a little bigger than needed and figured I would straighten
   .out the edges by some other means(I didn't want to try and do
   .exact cuts on the table saw).

JHP.I tried routing the wood(it is plywood) and I soon noticed that
   .this isn't a very good idea.  Aside from buying a joiner, is
   .there another way to "straighten" out the edges?  Is there a
   .special router bit that can do it?  I could plane it but that
   .seems like it would take too long.

Jim, you aren't going to fare much better with a jointer on that
plywood, either.  Unless you have a 'bad' table saw, why can't you
finish cut it on the table saw with a proper, sharp plywood blade?  Even
planing would be difficult to do without tearing the edges.  Another
possiblity that I use with large cuts that are much too difficult to
handle on the table saw, is to use a metal straight edge as a guide for
a plywood blade in a skill saw.  I never leave plywood edges exposed, so
unless I am covering a front edge that can be easily seen, I often glue
up the edges with a piece of slightly oversized solid wood.  That
material than can be easily sanded or cut to the proper size/length.

Regards,
Todd

---
 . OLX 2.2 . 0016 . Do you like me for my brain, or my baud?
                                                                               
Xref: sparky rec.woodworking:5828 rec.autos.tech:11772
From: pshyvers@pyrnova.mis.pyramid.com (Peter Shyvers)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Air Compressor Wisdom
Date: 26 Aug 92 17:34:10 GMT
Reply-To: pshyvers@pyrnova.pyramid.com (Peter Shyvers)
Organization: Pyramid Technology Corp., Mountain View, CA
Originator: daemon@sword.eng.pyramid.com

In article <BtJFHK.1I4.2@cs.cmu.edu> br@cs.cmu.edu writes:
>
>    I got a wonderful, huge old compressor at a garage sale.  It has
>    about a 35 gallon tank with a 7 Amp motor driving a 2 cylinder
>    compressor.  It looks like it is circa 1940-1950 and must weigh
>    over 150 lbs.  I seems to run pretty well and it will produce
>    120 pounds of air and hold it.  I plan on cleaning it up, replacing
>    wiring and gaskets and painting it.  Since I've never had a compressor
>    before, I've got some questions:
>
>	What accessories do I need?  Are an air filter and oiler
>	necessary?
If the manufacturer had a housing for a filter, get one. I've seen a bunch of
compressors without any filtration, though.

>
>	If I'm going to be running high-volume tools like an impact
>	wrench, is a 1/4" hose sufficient?  Should I look for 3/8"
>	hose and fittings?
There's got to be some formula for at what pressure the needed volume of air
can be passed thru a .25" I.D. hose, but I don't know it. I've always used
3/8".
>
>	This compressor has an oil sump.  Can I use motor oil in
>	this or do I need to find special compressor oil?
>
Probably motor oil - we used SAE30. 
>	What types of tools work well with air compressors?  Which 
>        should I stay away from?  For example, if you were needing
>	a drill, would you buy electric or air powered?
Air tools generally run cooler, so I prefer them. For some things you need to
decide if the air flow will disturb the work; for example, a friend of mine
loves the long-duration low-heat performance of his air sander, but hates
how the exhaust air kicks up dust.

Air tools also reduce the risk from having sparks (ie. from electric tools)
around combustibles.
From: gringort@wsl.dec.com (Joel Gringorten)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Polyurethane advice for hot dry climate?
Date: 4 Sep 92 17:32:22 GMT
Reply-To: gringort@wsl.dec.com (Joel Gringorten)
Distribution: na
Organization: DEC Western Software Lab

In article <DRAND.92Sep4104624@spinner.osf.org>, drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas Rand) writes:
|> In article <1992Sep4.114522.10824@clpd.kodak.com> obrien@serum.clpd.Kodak.Com (John O'Brien (x37279)) writes:
|> 
|>    You along with many others have had all kinds of problems using these
|>    new water based finishes. I personally don't think the manufacturers
|>    have ironed out all the bugs with this stuff yet because all you hear
|>    is complaints about mostly bubbles. [...]

|> I don't know what you're talking about.  Many people have reported
|> good results.  I have certainly obtained good results.  [...]

Chalk up another advocate of water based poly.  As I've reported here
before, I've used Diamond Varathane on several projects with excellent 
results. It's great to be able to apply multiple coats in a day, clean 
up with water, and have no (perceptable) noxious fumes.  I've found it 
to dry perfectly clear.  

It seems quite interesting that several regular posters have had problems
with bubbles, while others of us have had no problems with them.  Perhaps 
we should look further into the bubbles business.   As a starting point,
here are a few facts about my process.

I've used only the Diamond Varathane water based poly (gloss). Applied 
with a nylon brush designed for staining.  Low relative humidity;  
location Northern California.  Woods I've used were dry, red oak solid wood
and birch plywood.  Room temperature's for the various projects probably
varied, but were between 65F and 78F.  Wood surfaces were sanded up to
a light pass with fine sandpaper.  Poly was stirred, not shaken.  Medium 
thickness coats, not thin, but not heavy enough to drip.  The first two
coats cause distinct grain lift, but no discernable bubbles.  Lifted grain
was sanded smooth between first two coats.  Brush was rinsed out between
coats and subsequent coats applied anywhere between 2 hours and one day. 

-joel
From: todd.paulus%theweb@meaddata.com (Todd Paulus) 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Smoothing edges from a ta
Date: 30 Aug 92 15:35:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: The Web BBS 1-513-436-9011 6 Lines 1200 News groups 50,000 files!
Reply-To: todd.paulus%theweb@meaddata.com (Todd Paulus) 

To: jhp@sactoh0.sac.ca.us,rec.woodworking


   .Subject: Smoothing edges from a table saw cut(HOW?)
   .Message-ID: <1992Aug24.021610.24807@sactoh0.sac.ca.us>
   .Date: 24 Aug 92 02:16:10 GMT
   .Reply-To: jhp@sactoh0.SAC.CA.US (Jim H. Puga)

(Jim H. Puga) writes:

JHP.I've started my bookcase project and have a question.  I cut my
   .pieces a little bigger than needed and figured I would straighten
   .out the edges by some other means(I didn't want to try and do
   .exact cuts on the table saw).

JHP.I tried routing the wood(it is plywood) and I soon noticed that
   .this isn't a very good idea.  Aside from buying a joiner, is
   .there another way to "straighten" out the edges?  Is there a
   .special router bit that can do it?  I could plane it but that
   .seems like it would take too long.

Jim, you aren't going to fare much better with a jointer on that
plywood, either.  Unless you have a 'bad' table saw, why can't you
finish cut it on the table saw with a proper, sharp plywood blade?  Even
planing would be difficult to do without tearing the edges.  Another
possiblity that I use with large cuts that are much too difficult to
handle on the table saw, is to use a metal straight edge as a guide for
a plywood blade in a skill saw.  I never leave plywood edges exposed, so
unless I am covering a front edge that can be easily seen, I often glue
up the edges with a piece of slightly oversized solid wood.  That
material than can be easily sanded or cut to the proper size/length.

Regards,
Todd

---
 . OLX 2.2 . 0016 . Do you like me for my brain, or my baud?
                                                                               
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: crogers@sctc.com (Clyde Rogers)
Subject: Stock Preparation Question
Organization: SCTC
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 16:07:22 GMT


Does anybody know of a method of stock preparation that does not 
require either:
- skill with a jointer plane (or am I overestimating the difficulty
  of stock preparation with a plane?), or
- both a jointer and planer

I'm basically trying to figure out if I can get away without spending
big bucks getting both a jointer and planer.  I'd like to know about
alternative methods, and how their results and difficulty compare to
using the jointer/planer/tablesaw method.

Thanks,
Clyde Rogers
sctc.com