HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: amz@iguana.cis.ohio-state.edu (Arnold M Zwicky)
Subject: Re: Sweet Woodruff experience?
Followup-To: rec.gardens
Summary: great groundcover
Organization: stanford, outil, lsa, osu,...
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 1992 21:43:27 GMT

we've grown sweet woodruff for twenty years now, in fairly heavy clay
soil on the east side of a line of high shrubbery (mockorange and bush
honeysuckle), in columbus, ohio.  it gets a little morning sun, has
sweet white flowers early in may, and spreads a little bit every year.
we have a stand of hardy begonias growing behind it; the big-leaved
begonias with their many small pink flowers towering over the mat of
lighter green sweet woodruff is very pretty.

it has withstood long droughts, winters with temperatures down to -20
F., summers with temperatures over 100 F., this july's record rains,
and unimproved soil.  it is unfailingly gracious.

if you want something that spreads faster, the lamiums and their
relatives (like golden archangel - great common name!) or
bishopsweed/goutweed are other possibilities we have had good results
with.  if you want something lower and *less* invasive, mazus reptans,
with its nice purple flowers, might work for you.

a lot depends on your local conditions, of course.  (now *there's* an
understatement!)

arnold

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: rlwilliams@gallua.gallaudet.edu
Subject: Re: Shady Groundcoverclose
Organization: Gallaudet University
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 1992 19:03:07 GMT

In article <1992Aug31.192158.12010@sco.COM>, rogerv@sco.COM (Roger Vortman) writes:
> 
>>In article <64523@cup.portal.com> zoetrope@cup.portal.com 
>>(Devan DzM MacFarlane) writes:
>>>I need to find a good groundcover plant or a variety of plants that will do
>>>well in a semi-shade environment.
>>>
>>>So that you know the type of environment I live in, I live in the
>>>San Francisco Bay Area which is classified as a "Mediterranian" climate.
>>>
> 
> There is an excellent book out on gardening in the shade as well.  It
> is called "The Shade Gardener" or somesuch.  Anyway, I can get the actual
> title and author if anyone is interested.  It is about the only good book
> that I have seen dedicated to shade gardening.
> 
> -Roger
---
On the advice of a friend I planted a bunch of Ajuga (sp?) which is doing 
well in my shade... in the spring, I'm told, it send up electric purple 
flowers... stay tuned.

skip
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Sweet Woodruff experience?
Date: 11 Sep 92 17:02:35 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

In article <64820014@hpl-opus.hpl.hp.com>, moda@hpl-opus.hpl.hp.com (Margaret Oda [CMCD]) writes:
  The ground cover requirements are:  
> shade-tolerant, drought-tolerant, and low-lying/ground-hugging 
> (so that it can lie around stepping stones).  I have absolutely no 
> gardening experience so I bought a lot of books on ground covers.
> The ground cover I came up with is Galium Odoratum (Sweet Woodruff).
> 
> Does anyone have experience with this particular ground cover?
> One book (hpbooks) says that it meets all of my requirements 
> listed above, but another source (sunset) says that it needs
> a lot of watering.  Who do I believe?

Also called Asperula odorata.  This is the plant used to flavor Maiwine.
Needs a moist but well drained soil and shade to partial shade.  I
wouldn't call it *ground hugging*, since it will easily make 12".
It's hardy in USDA zones 4-9.  My experience is that it looks pretty
awful after several weeks without water.  (Webster loam soil, quite
favorable for most gardens.)

If you let us know where you are located, and what your soil type is
like, and how tall you'll permit, someone may have some suggestions.
Another thing you'll need to decide is how much traffic you expect 
on this groundcover-- in general, they are not traffic-tolerant, like
lawns.

Kay Klier  Biology Dept  UNI
From: graue@andy.bgsu.edu (Louis Graue)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Prunning Hemlock
Date: 6 Sep 92 15:05:56 GMT
Article-I.D.: andy.Bu5wLx.CFA
Organization: Bowling Green State University B.G., Oh.

I have an old hemlock tree that has been pruned over the years into a bush.
It has not been pruned for a while and is overgrown quite a bit.  I have
just pruned it way back so that no green leaves are left.  Will it break
new growth or should I just completly remove it?
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Raccoons in the Corn!
Date: 8 Sep 92 18:11:29 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

In article <1992Sep8.172555.2403@athena.cs.uga.edu>, karen@athena.cs.uga.edu (Karen Snetselaar) writes:
> We have for years used 2 strategies to combat the raccoon decimation of
> the sweet corn patch.  One is to plant a whole lot of corn (space is not
> a problem) so even if the coons take part of it we still get plenty.  The
> second is playing raucous AM rock-and-roll radio all through the night out
> in the corn patch when the ears are nearly ripe.  I don't know why this
> works, but in Iowa, anyway, raccoons do not like loud music with dinner.

Some Iowans don't like loud rock with dinner either... ;-)  Then there
are those who advocate raccoon control measures like .22 rifles.  Or
my old major prof who observed that racoons ate a hole through a kitchen
rug that had been put outside after a bottle of corn oil had been dropped
on it.  He mixed up Temik (a nasty red-spider control) and cornoil and
baited his corn patch, then gleefully told us about it the next morning.
Me, I gave up growing sweetcorn several years ago.  Why should I dig all
that ground, plant, water and mulch, when the neighbors with 3 or 4 acres
of sweetcorn are willing to sell me as much as I want for an entire season
for $5?

Kay
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: kls@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Kenneth L Shellberg)
Subject: Re: Australian plants/Ameriflora  
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 14:37:26 GMT

In article <10292250.63345.25251@kcbbs.gen.nz> Dawn_Scotting@kcbbs.gen.nz (Dawn Scotting) writes:
>arkdr@uniwa.uwa.edu.au (Dave Rindos) writes:   
>>I **really** doubt it will be hardy in zone 5 (which as I recall gets  
>>temperatures around 0F).  THe SUnset Encyclopedia (USA) lists it as  
>Well it seems that zone 5 is a lot colder than I thought, maybe the  
>'Pohutukawa' (NZ Xmas Tree) may not be very happy there. However it is  
Actually, zone 5 in the US can have winter low temps of -20F (-29C).
I recontacted the Australian exhibit at Ameriflora and arranged for
a swap.  I think that the Australian horticultural staff at Ameriflora are not
very familiar with the midcontinent US climate and therefore have little
experience with the hardiness of NZ and Australian native plants in such a
climate.  I feel that I am gambling with most anything I buy.  They have
what might be called an Australian variety of the Scotch Broom, Cytisus
x dallimorei 'Burkwoodii', 6 to 8 ft with carmine flowers.  Since I have
had good luck with the Cytisus scoparius cultivars, I am hopeful that
the Australian variety is equally hardy.  I'll be crossing my fingers
this winter....

Ken Shellberg
  



-- 
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
- Ken Shellberg                 |   Internet: kls@ohstpy.mps.ohio-state.edu -
- The Ohio State University     |   CIS:      76247.1705@compuserve.com     -
- Geological Sciences           |   Voice:    614-292-2721                  -
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: DCraft@Adobe.com (Dan Craft)
Subject: Gardening service in Mtn View
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: ba
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 19:48:35 GMT

I moved into a small house in old Mountain View a few weeks ago.  Much of what  
attracted me to this house was its great flower gardens out front and back,  
including about 10 fruit trees.  I had thought I'd try to take care of the  
gardens myself, but am finding there is no time, what with all the other  
demands of a new house on one's time :-).  Besides, my thumb isn't all that  
green.

So, I'm looking for recommendations for a gardener or gardening service in Mtn  
View.  I'd prefer a small one to five person sort of business with people who  
are doing it because they like gardening rather than just someone who's pushing  
a lawnmower to earn money.

Any recommendations greatly appreciated - and the sooner the better as some  
plants seem to be getting out of hand rather quickly!

Thanks,

--Dan Craft  <DCraft@MV.US.Adobe.com>  415/962-6024
From: nrlfs1.nrl.navy.mil (Judy Karpen)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Tabasco Recipe Wanted
Date: 11 Sep 92 13:58:50 GMT
Organization: NRL

In article <1992Sep10.145635.19625@schbbs.mot.com>, C11815@maccvm.corp.mot.com (Josette Giacobbi) writes:
(old stuff deleted)
> Judy, some people want the tabasco recipe. Is it too long to print??
>                Thanks, Josette
> 
Fellow gardeners:

I'll be glad to post the hot-sauce recipe as soon as I can find my "*&^%%# issue of OG! I've been 
looking for it over the past few days, to make copies for interested friends, but it's hiding. 
I will look for it over the weekend and post the recipe next week. Even if I can't find it, I think 
I can reproduce the basic idea.

Sorry if you tried to email me unsuccessfully earlier. I'm not quite sure what happened, but I think the
local system was having network troubles over Labor Day holiday (it's run by idiots, so anything can
and does happen). It seems to be working now, for what it's worth...

Thanks also to those who commented on my query about an organic gardening group.  After reading the 
postings here, it does look like most are organic anyway, so maybe there isn't any need for a 
specialized group --- besides, it wouldn't hurt for the non-organic (inorganic? ;-) ) gardeners out 
there to learn more about ways to reduce dependence on pesticides and "synthetic" fertilizers.

Now I have some questions of my own:

1) Has anyone found a good (organic) method of getting rid of asparagus beetles, other than hand picking?
I don't have that many plants but they are very vigorous, and hand picking of beetles, eggs, and 
larvae becomes too time consuming (and not very thorough) once the foliage reaches its annual 
jungle-like state.  Any suggestions about alternatives to hand-picking harlequin beetles also will be 
appreciated (not much of a problem this cool summer, but when it's hot they get obnoxious).

2) I have a 3 yr. old miniature apricot tree in a tub on my deck, which goes through the same pattern every year.
It leafs out fine in the spring, then about mid-summer the leaves start to develop round brown spots a
and fall off, so by now I have a half-defoliated, unhappy-looking tree. I've looked through every
gardening book I own but can't find any pictures or descriptions that really match --- can anyone 
identify the problem, and suggest an organic solution?  I haven't even gotten any fruit yet, which might
be due partially to this recurrent problem, so I'm eager to find an answer. 

Thanks for your patience and your help!                                           Judy

                                                            internet:  karpen@nrlfs1.nrl.navy.mil            

                                               

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: daniel@faith.uchicago.edu (Daniel Fu)
Subject: My satinwood is losing its leaves
Organization: University of Chicago Computing Organizations
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 16:22:56 GMT

About a month ago my dad sent me a satinwood plant and since then it's
been losing a few leaves per day.  Before falling, the tips turn a
dried brownish color.  It's gotten plenty of water and is exposed to
flourescent light most of the day.  Anybody know what's wrong?

Daniel

--------------------------------------
Daniel Fu       daniel@cs.uchicago.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: gwb@cbnews.cb.att.com (gregory.blum)
Subject: Saving Tuberous Begonias
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 15:42:54 GMT


This year I bought a couple of large pots of tuberous begonias to
brighten up the stoop of my NE facing house.  They've been going
gangbusters, with only a few short timeouts to rest up for the next
amazing burst of gorgeous flowers.

However, I've begun to wonder what (if anything) can be done to
carry them over the winter.  Do you dry them out and/or dig up the
tubers (ala dahlias, glads, etc.)?  Can I just keep them growing
all year by dragging them indoors and making room at my already
crowded windowsills?  Do I quit fertilizing soon?  How cool of nights
can they stand without and adverse effects (we're already getting some
upper 40s here in central Ohio)?


On an unrelated note......

In the great pesto debate, I definitely come down on the side of not
putting the cheese in before freezing.  Though I don't really detect
a great taste difference, the consistency of that frozen with the
cheese in it always seems inferior to me.  I really don't know why
this is, since I've often frozen large lumps of just cheese without
noticing any big change...... another of life's little mysteries.
(To add in a household vote: my father detects no difference, a friend
I often cook for detects some but not much, and my mother is aghast that
I'd consider freezing cheese in any way shape or form).
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: mk4j@poe.acc.Virginia.EDU (Mable B. Kinzie)
Subject: Re: recipe request: marinara sauce
Organization: University of Virginia
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 22:01:44 GMT

Joy of Cooking (I think) recommends adding a small amount of
anchovies to the marinara sauce.  I've tried it and it adds a
wonderful, subtle, not at all fishy flavor.

mmm-mmm!

Mable
--
From: mcbride@rust.zso.dec.com (Melinda McBride)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: looking for advice on retaining wall systems
Date: 4 Sep 92 20:17:59 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation - DECwest Engineering

We are building a house on a steep lot.  The foundation is built
into the hill, so we have a half basement.  We need to build a
retaining wall next to the house.  It will be about 11 feet long
and about 8 feet tall.  It may be possible to build two four
foot walls with about two feet of level ground between them.

I'd like to use some type of retaining wall system that includes
space for plants, since a window will look right out at the wall.
Does anyone know of such a system?  

We were originally thinking of doing this ourselves, but that was
when we thought the wall was going to be much smaller.  Does anyone
have any advice about how to find a good contractor for this type of
project?  

The area will be quite shady, so I was thinking of ferns and moss
for plants.  

I would wecome any information or advice about retaining walls/
rockeries, design, building, etc.

Mac
From: lienhard@daydreamer.metaphor.com (Steve Lienhard)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: roses
Date: 11 Sep 92 16:06:57 GMT
Organization: Metaphor Computer Systems, Mountain View, CA

In article <MYT.1.716188666@buc.edu.au> MYT@buc.edu.au (Mandy Trigg) writes:
>Does anyone know where I can get a Baby Faraux rose to add to my collection?

Yes, you can order it through the mail from:
    
    Heirloom Old Garden Roses
    24062 NE Riverside Drive
    St. Paul, Oregon 97137
    (503) 538-1576

Good luck!
Xref: sparky rec.gardens:6560 misc.consumers.house:12014
From: mtw8527@bcstec.ca.boeing.com (Mike Wallach)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens,misc.consumers.house
Subject: Lawns
Date: 8 Sep 92 22:53:32 GMT
Followup-To: poster
Distribution: usa
Organization: Boeing Computer Services, Seattle

My lawn has been a victim of the "drought" we experienced
here in the Northwest this year.  I was planning to aerate
and fertilize to try to see if I could get the lawn to
return to its former healthy condition.  Will this be worth
the effort or will I have to start from scratch and reseed?
Any opinions?

				mtw8527@eeidf002.ca.boeing.com
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: stngiam@athena.mit.edu (Shih-Tung Ngiam)
Subject: What is corn ?
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 18:51:04 GMT

   
   The cereal known as corn in the US is called maize in England.  But
the English also grow a crop called corn.  What is that (English corn) ?


Shih Tung
Chem E
Best l'il Tech School
in Cambridge
(Not the UK one!)
From: langston@langston.cs.utk.edu (Mike Langston)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Natural snail controls
Date: 16 Sep 92 02:56:40 GMT
Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of Tennessee
Distribution: world
Reply-To: langston@langston.cs.utk.edu (Mike Langston)
NNTP-Posting-Host: langston.cs.utk.edu

> did you know that Banana Slugs are the UC Santa Cruz' mascot ????

thought it was the oregon state bird

-- 
mike langston <langston@cs.utk.edu>
department of computer science, university of tennessee


Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: graue@andy.bgsu.edu (Louis Graue)
Subject: Will Hemlock tree come back?
Organization: Bowling Green State University B.G., Oh.
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 16:22:26 GMT

If you prune off all the green leaves of a hemlock tree will it
break out with new buds and come back or will it just die?
I just did this and am wondering if I should just remove it and
start over.
Lou
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Mediterranean climate (was: zones)
Date: 9 Sep 92 21:28:21 GMT
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

pharvey@mipos3.intel.com (Paul Harvey) writes:
> In article <1992Sep8.190327.6577@iscsvax.uni.edu> 
> klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes:
>>I would not classify San Francisco as a true Med-type climate-- there
>>is (normally) no summer drought to speak of.
> 
> What do you mean exactly? Are you talking about fog drip? But I agree with
> you, SF is more of a seasonal-rainfall, cool, subTropical climate where
> daily temperature range usually exceeds seasonal temperature range. Let's
> see, average summer 65-55, average winter 55-45. I guess daily range is
> equal to seasonal in this case. BTW: I think SF's average winter low is
> about 35 which would make it USDA zone 10, but good luck trying to grow
> mangos there. (Insufficient heat units)

When I lived in Davis, the daily weather report from SF was quite
predictable: The low was 55, the high was 65 and there was 0.1" 
precipitation-- that was summer.  In the winter, the low was 50, the
high was 60 and there was 0.15" precip.   Got a bit boring to those
of us used to _real_ weather.   ;-)

(Standard Iowa reply to "furriners" who complain about the weather here:
"Well, just wait a hour.  We'll probably have something you like even 
less.")

Kay
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: germinating black walnuts
Date: 15 Sep 92 20:09:09 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

In article <sehRIW=0BwxaIDg0h_@transarc.com>, Chriss_Stephens@transarc.com writes:
> Does anyone know how to germinate black walnuts or know where to look such
> information up?

Seeds of Woody Plants of the United States, USDA Ag. Handbook 450, is always
a good starting point for this.  

They recommend de-husking (seed can be stored at 20-40% moisture content
at 37oF for a year), stratifying at 34-41oF in sand or peat for 90-120
days, at which point you can expect germination in 4 weeks at 86oF day
(8 hrs, with light)/68o night temp.  Don't sow at more than 8 seeds per
square foot, cover with 1-2 inches of soil, and keep the critters away.
Transplant at 1 year.

Stuke, W.  1960.  Seed and seed handling techniques in production of
walnut seedlings.  Int. Plant Propagation Soc. Prof. 10: 274-277.
From: lll@snow.NSD.3Com.COM (Ly Loi)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: protection from frost
Date: 9 Sep 92 22:22:52 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: 3Com Corporation

I've got a frost-tender plant that was not meant to be in my zone, 
thus the plant might die this winter.  Can I save the plant? What are 
some of the methods to protect plants from the frost?  Thanks.

- Ly
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: why bother with corn?!! or canning or . . .
Date: 10 Sep 92 17:36:50 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

In article <1992Sep10.182303.20500@samba.oit.unc.edu>, Doug.Hemken@bbs.oit.unc.edu (Doug Hemken) writes:
> This being the first year I've tried to can anything in quantity, I
> especially ask myself why anyone would can what they can buy in a grocery
> store!!  Sure my tomatoes taste better than store-bought, yes I enjoy the
> completeness of putting up something I raised from seeds I saved, ok so I
> get satisfaction from the sight of shelf full of red jars (w/ the
> occassional yellow).  But it's hot grueling work, and its not an economic
> neccessity like it was when my grandmother put up *hundreds* of quarts of
> things.  Have I taken leave of my sense?  I used to be so efficient and
> economical . . . .

Well, mostly I prefer frozen veggies, which are less work.  I have evolved
an efficient (for me) method of canning tomato sauce:

Slip the skins on a bunch of tomatoes, run them through a blender seeds 
and all.  Throw resulting glop in a crockpot, then leave it to cook down
to paste consistency.  Pour into clean mason jars, wipe the rims, add caps,
and place in refrigerator for a day or so.  

Truck mason jars full of paste to bacteriology lab, where autoclaves
that will hold *gallons* of media are generally run with less than a cup
or so...  Load jars into back of autoclave, newly made media into the
front, autoclave at 15 psi for 15 min.  Open autoclave door when pressure
has dropped, and listen to the simultaneous "poing" of a dozen jar lids
snapping down.  Truck jars back home and put on shelf.  Viola! ;-)

Kay Klier    Biology Dept     UNI
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: viking@iastate.edu (Dan Sorenson)
Subject: scientific name of vanilla orchid?
Keywords: vanilla!
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames IA
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1992 00:44:01 GMT

Greetings!

Several months ago, I followed a thread on where to order vanilla
orchids; someone posted a list of orchid growers. I happily wrote
to three or four of them the next day, asking for catalogues.  The
only people who sent me one was Oak Hill Gardens, and it just arrived
*today*. :(   Now I need to know the scientific name of vanilla, as
they seem to only list their orchids by species names.

Also, has anyone else ever ordered from Oak Hill?  If so, what was your
opinion of their service, prices, and more importantly, the condition of
their plants?

Thanks, April

========================================================================
\ April, posting from my boyfriend's account, often with his knowledge./
/ e-mail replies to viking@iastate.edu with "April" in the first line  \
\ "Well, I don't know where *you're* from, bucko, but in these parts   /
/ BLT stands for 'Bloated Lizard and Toad Sandwich'." --Mark Parisi    \
========================================================================
From: lll@snow.NSD.3Com.COM (Ly Loi)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: paint harmful to plants?
Date: 9 Sep 92 16:57:53 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: 3Com Corporation

While painting my fence, I've dropped some paint on some plants.  Will
this harm the plants?  Thanks.

- Ly
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu (John Snyder)
Subject: Re: Raccoons in the Corn!
Organization: Physics Department, Carnegie Mellon University
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 19:43:19 GMT

In article <1992Sep14.101254.28154@walter.cray.com> gwv@eastrg2.cray.com (George Vandenberghe) writes:
>I'm the guy who suggested keeping a clean corn patch.  Anyway your
>butternut squash reminded me of something I have been told but 
>never tried.  If you grow vining squash under your corn, raccoons
>may stay away because they don't like walking on the prickly leaves.


I have used this method every year.  I used to grow pumpkins between
and around my corn.  Then I started having so much trouble with
squash vine borers (killed 9 borers in 2 vines in 1 weekend).
Now I plant butternut squash between and around my corn (I have
never known butternut to get squash vine borers.)  The only
year I had any trouble was the year a storm knocked the
cornstalks down across the squash.  Then the racoons got some.
I also am out in my garden in the evenings often at least 4 or 5 days
a week, and probably leave a lot of human odor there.

John
snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu