HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Organization: Arizona State University
Date: Monday, 7 Sep 1992 20:48:52 MST
From: Bob Kaneshige <KHAAV@ASUACAD.BITNET>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: MR2 speakers

In article <1992Sep2.172552.595@gtephx.UUCP>, saundersb@gtephx.UUCP (Bary
Saunders) says:
>
>I just bought a '86 Toyota mr2, the speakers are lacking to say the least
>Has anyone beefed up the speaker system with much luck, and if so what
>did you use? I can't believe the powered 5"(at best) woofer under the
>drivers seat, cute but not very affective.

I was in my local audio shop having some work done on my vette, and the
installer wanted me to take a look at an MR2 that he was working on.
Never really having had a real close look at one I was amazed with the
sound quality that was coming out of the car.  In the front trunk , he had
contructed a sealed box containing a 12" sub that was 'ported' out into
the passenger side compartment; the sound of the bass was just as 'good' as
one installed in the back trunk of a 'regular' car.  I didn't have a chance
to look over the rest of the setup.  Give Unique Car Audio a call 926-1448
(Chandler) and ask for Rob or Dennis.

  Bob
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rakoczynskij@gtephx.UUCP (Jurek Rakoczynski)
Subject: Re: Power Locks
Organization: AG Communication Systems, Phoenix, Arizona
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 19:41:52 GMT

In article <D2150040.d7fq21@destiny.howtek.UUCP>, paul@howtek.UUCP (Paul Rothenberg) writes:
> 
> I have an '85 S-10 Blazer w/ power locks.  The passenger door lock
> cannot be unlocked using power central locking. I can power lock the
> door with no problem. The driver side door is OK both ways. 
> 
> Is the problem just in wiring, or am I in for something bigger? Any
> help is appreciated. 
I have an `83 Chevy Surbuban C10 with power windows/door locks.  Your
symtoms are similiar to the problems I have with the windows.  It's
always the switch that goes bad.  THe dealer will over charge you for
a replacement switch ~$20.00+.  You can get them in the "HELP" packs
for ~$8.00.

-- 
Jurek Rakoczynski, AG Communication Systems, POB 52179, Phoenix, AZ. 85072
UUCP: ...!{ncar!noao!enuucp | att}!gtephx!rakoczynskij  Voice: +1 602 581 4867
Inet: gtephx!rakoczynskij@enuucp.eas.asu.edu              Fax: +1 602 582 7111
Inet: /DD.UN=J.RAKOCZYNSKI/O=GTE/PRMD=GTEMAIL/ADMD=TELEMAIL/C=US/@sprint.com
From: welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: what larges vehicles use for brakes (was: disk brakes again)
Date: 12 Sep 92 20:59:25 GMT
Organization: New York State Institute for Sebastian Cabot Studies

In article <ia85428@pro-haven.cts.com> shadow@pro-haven.cts.com (Blaine Hufnagle) writes:
>Normal freight trains use pseudo-drum brakes, as the shoes apply directly
>against the rolling surface.  Look at a freight car some time when you are
>sitting at a RR crossing some time.

these are drum-like, certainly, but are distinctly different from
automotive drum brakes because they are on the outside of the wheel;
they cool better, and gas and dust don't build up between the shoe and
the wheel the way that they do between a drum and a shoe in an automotive
disk brake.

richard
-- 
richard welty                            518-393-7228
welty@cabot.balltown.cma.com
  ``if you can read this, mario, you're too close''
    -- bumper sticker seen on a CART safety truck
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: WANTED: Nissan LD-28 diesel manual.
From: glgyhrb@otago.ac.nz (Hyram Ballard)
Date: 5 Sep 92 14:40:09 +1300
Organization: Dept. of Geology, Univ. of Otago, NZ

G'day,
I have a Holden (Australian GM) Station wagon which has had a Nissan LD-28
diesel (2.8 litre, 6 cyl., 96 hp) engine installed in it and this is a very
good thing. Problem is I need a manual for the engine and there are none to be
had in this country. Apparently the engine was an option for the Datsun Maxima
810 imported to the US during the mid-eighties.
If anyone has a manual for this engine they would like to get rid of or could
point me in a direction where I might obtain same, I would very much appreciate
it.
Thanks, Hyram.
From: tracye@hpcvra.cv.hp.com (Tracy Evans)
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 20:56:50 GMT
Subject: Re: Re: what larges vehicles use for brakes (was: disk brakes again)
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Corvallis, OR, USA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

yeah, my bicycle does too....

tracy
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rakoczynskij@gtephx.UUCP (Jurek Rakoczynski)
Subject: Re: Toyota Oil Filters Vs. The Others
Organization: AG Communication Systems, Phoenix, Arizona
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 22:26:16 GMT

In article <PFZuqB4w165w@toz.buffalo.ny.us>, augy@toz.buffalo.ny.us (Jeffrey Ehlinger) writes:
> 
>      Toyata tells me that only genuine Toyata Oil filters have a 
> mechanism inside them that preventsall the oil from draining into the oil 
> pan. This they claim, helps reduce engine wear on start-ups. I was 
> thinking of switching over to Toyota Filters (1986 Chevy Nova) but my car 
> has been running smoothly for 126k on Group 7 Filters.
>      Has anybody used both, and notice a Diffrence. (I have treated the 
> engine w/ Slick 50 at 100k). How does the mechanism work in the filter?
> 
> ==========================================================================
> ** Mail to: Augy@toz.buffalo.ny.us        <<<Tower of Zot>>> Bflo, NY   **
> ** The bus came by and I got on, that's when it all began!              **

If Fram (or pick your favorite company) has a filter they list for
your application, ask Toyota to put that statement in writing and send
a copy of it to Fram (or whatever co.) and some_govn't_office list in
the Fram catalog.  One of them is lying.
-- 
Jurek Rakoczynski, AG Communication Systems, POB 52179, Phoenix, AZ. 85072
UUCP: ...!{ncar!noao!enuucp | att}!gtephx!rakoczynskij  Voice: +1 602 581 4867
Inet: gtephx!rakoczynskij@enuucp.eas.asu.edu              Fax: +1 602 582 7111
Inet: /DD.UN=J.RAKOCZYNSKI/O=GTE/PRMD=GTEMAIL/ADMD=TELEMAIL/C=US/@sprint.com
From: Michel_Denber.WBST147@XEROX.COM
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: I NEED 2nd CAR..$2-300..ADVICE?..SELLER??
Date: 11 Sep 92 19:53:00 GMT


	"$50.00 Are you related to the Rockefellers? I have a 1982 Nissan
Sentra wagon that I bought for $0.40."

What?  You paid forty cents for a car?  Luxury!  Must be nice to have that kind
of cash to throw around.  Why, just in this morning's mail is an ad from
someone who's giving a car away completely for free.  It's true - as Dave Barry
says, I'm not making this up (see excerpt below).

I would have bought it, but I don't buy any car unless the seller actually pays
me.

			- Michel

denber.wbst147@xerox.com

------------------------

Date: 10 Sep 92 17:47 EDT (Thursday)
From: [name deleted]:XEROX
Subject: Car needs a home (Roch. area)
To: autorepair:all areas

Hi,

I need to find a home for my old car that I don't use anymore.  I'm moving soon
and can't keep holding on to it.  I want to give it away to someone who could
use it.

The car:
1973 Plymouth Duster
Blue w/ white vinyl top
Slant 6 225 engine,  Automatic

Condition:
Body - moderate rust; paint in decent shape; looks presentable.
Engine & Drivetrain - good condition. Many new parts.
Interior - pretty clean and everything works.
Suspension & Steering - one upper control arm bushing and one or two ball
joints (depending on judgement) need replacement;  everything else is solid.
Tires, exhaust system - both fairly new.
Brakes - good; pedal solid.
From: jfb2@po.CWRU.Edu (John F. Bauer III)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: '78 Econoline Van has some oil pres. trouble
Date: 14 Sep 1992 13:23:18 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: jfb2@po.CWRU.Edu (John F. Bauer III)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc12.ins.cwru.edu



	Well, yet again I throw myself at the feet of the net users and
ask for someones experience to help me out in a bind ..

	I have a '78 Econoline E100 Ford Van with the 302 cub. in. inline
6 cyl. engine with 104,000 miles.  For some reason, just out of the blue,
my oil pressure guage (no light, an actual guage, what a luxury feature) is
not giving me positive feedback.  The following is a sample of a daily engine
startup from a totally cold engine:

After engine begins to start the oil pressure indicator climbs from its off
position LOW to right in the middle of the guage between LOW and HIGH.  If I 
start driving right away, the indicator will move from the middle to about
three quarters the way towards the HIGH side.  If I let the engine warm up
for about 5 minutes and then start driving, the indicator will stay right in themiddle.  But, after about 10 minutes of driving, the oil indicator will proceed
to steadily fall back to a "normal" (at least I think it is normal) mark very
close to the LOW side of the guage.

	Now the question is, IS THIS OKAY???  In other Econoline vans in the
80s that I have driven, the oil guage always went to that mark very close to
the LOW side of the guage.  Yet, on my guage, the indicator never leaves
the "normal" section, but I am aways concerned when things don't quite seem
to funtion properly and I want to catch any problems before they become major.
I have replaced the oil about 4 times in the last 1,000 miles.  The owners
manual says 10w30, I have tried 10w30 & 10w40 and have not noticed any difference in guage responce.  Right now I have some CD-2 OIL Detergent added to the
oil to help breakout any loose sludge in the engine that might be causing
problems, but still no change.

	Can any one give me any advice on what to do?  Is everything okay
and this is standard engine wear?  Am I paranoid?

John


-- 
John F. Bauer III			216-937-6117
IntelliSystems		     Custom Computer Systems
3816 Jaycox Rd.                        & Programming
Avon, OH  44011        ---===)))>>> JFB2@PO.CWRU.EDU
From: jas20@duts.ccc.amdahl.com (John A Sigmon)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Toy 4-Runner Experience
Date: 14 Sep 92 23:33:55 GMT
Reply-To: jas20@DUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (John A Sigmon)
Distribution: USA
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

Does any one have any experience with the 1986 -1988 22RE turbos.
The Toy dealer say that the turbo is a problem, but I never see the
things for sale.
I am looking at doing a turbo engine swap into my 4-Runner and am looking
for any input on the reliability or performance of the stock setup.
If you have any input please send it to the above Email address or to
this news group.
Thanks John
**************************************************************************
Standard disclaimer
**************************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dak@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu (David Kardelis- I am the NRA)
Subject: Price for Jeep parts
Reply-To: dak@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu
Organization: High Energy Physics, University of Illinois, Urbana-Champaign
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 22:43:08 GMT

	I have some extra parts that came with the 73 Jeep 
Wagoneer taht I am puttting back together. I am thinking of
selleing some of these parts to defray the cost of the 
reconstruction. The extra parts are

	Dana 44 Axle with differential front axle--includes brake units
	Dana 30 closed knuckle front axle-- includes brake units
	Warner Quadra-trac unit
	Intake manifold
	Head covers

I was wondering if there is a market for these and if so what would be
reasonable prices to ask for them.

				Thanks dave

PS Is the offroad mailing list active. I have not recieved anything
since I subscribed and was asked for a bio.

==========================================================================
   David Kardelis		| I am the NRA-NRA Life
   Gradual Student in Physics   |
   Univ. of Ilinois		|	Looking for a new .SIG
   dak@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu	|
   217-333-0505			|
Not necessarily the views of the ISSC or the UI At UC
==========================================================================
From: aahsan@pyramid.COM (Agha Ahsan)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Gassoline smell in Oil
Keywords: SAAB 900 T
Date: 11 Sep 92 00:37:23 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Distribution: usa
Organization: Pyramid Technology Corporation, Mountain View, California


	When I changed the oil in my '84 SAAB 900 T last month
	I noticed that the old oil had a little smell of gasoline
	in it and also looked to be very thin.
	What can be causing this. I have not had starting problems
	so I have not been cranking the engine.

	Thanx for the info.

	-Agha
From: henryng@tellabs.com (Henry Ng)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: ??? Anyone Work On Triumph Autos ???
Date: 8 Sep 92 17:55:41 GMT
Article-I.D.: tellab5.1992Sep8.175541.28568
Organization: Tellabs, Inc., Lisle, IL

In article <1992Sep7.194428.4238@m.cs.uiuc.edu> totty@flute.cs.uiuc.edu (Brian Totty) writes:
>	I have had a Triumph Spitfire 1500 for about six years now.
>	I've done a fair amount of work on it over the years, but now I
>	am planning to attempt some more serious restoration.
>
>	If you have any interest and/or experience with working on
>	Triumphs or British cars in general, I'd love to hear from you.
>
>	I'm sure I will have some questions along the way, and I'd like
>	to have a 'support' group that I could ask these questions to,
>	and get people's advice.  Likewise, I'll offer any limited wisdom
>	I might have.
>
>	So, reply with your email address if you are interested in working
>	on Triumphs (or British cars in general).
>
>	Also, is there a British car mailing list anywhere?  If not, perhaps
>	we could start one...
>
        This coming sunday September 13th, there will be a British Car Show
	in Oakton College in Niles or Des Plaines? IL. I think it is located
	less than thirty minutes North of O'Hare Airport. There are over
	two hundred English cars ranging from Aston Martin to Rolls Royces.
        Henry Ng (henryng@tellabs.com)	
>      						Thanks,
>
>
>						--- Bri
>
>
>   /                       Brian Totty             o o
>  /__  __  o     Department of Computer Science     o  
> /  / /   /          1304 W. Springfield Ave       \_/  "We have corn in
>/__/ /   /               Urbana, IL 61801                Massachusetts too!"
>                        totty@cs.uiuc.edu
From: nall@sun8.scri.fsu.edu (John Nall)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Recommendations re: 82/83/84 Mercedes....
Date: 8 Sep 92 18:13:21 GMT
Reply-To: nall@sun8.scri.fsu.edu (John Nall)
Organization: SCRI, Florida State University

In article <1992Sep8.162102.17933@geac.com> billb@geac.com (Bill Bain) writes:
>In article <715622639.F00002@blkcat.UUCP> Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory) writes:
>> JG> For that much money you can get your self a nice digitally fuel 
>> JG> injected
>> JG> BMW 528e '82 or later. This car burns clean and gets good gas mileage.
>> JG> Diesel mbz's are very expensive to repair. At 100k miles the car has
>> JG> a good chance of being in need of a rebuild, unless it was taken care 
>> JG> of
>> JG> in which case 100k miles has not really broken the engine in yet.
>>
>>I've heard that there has been a lot of trouble with the "eta" engine used in
>>the 528e. True or not?
>>

   Uh, hey, fellows!  Thanks, but no thanks.  I don't want a BMW.  I want
   a MB.  I have no doubt whatsoever that a BMW is a fine piece of machinery,
   but if I parked it in the hippy commune where I live, I would get pelted
   with rocks by my neighbors :-)  They both make statements, of course, but
   they're different statements.  The MB would be considered a statement of
   solidarity by the community: "We're just as good as other folks, even if
   we *do* live in home-made houses and wear beards", whereas the BMW would
   be considered a statement by the individual *toward* the community:  "I
   am a yuppie!".  Of course, if I painted it with day-glow pink and put some
   peace signs on it, perhaps....

   John

--
John W. Nall              | Supercomputer Computations Research Institute
nall@mailer.scri.fsu.edu  | Florida State University, Tallahassee, Florida
  "Sugar and spice/and everything nice/blend it twice/add more spice/
   Then serve over ice..." - original recipe for making southerners
From: rakoczynskij@gtephx.UUCP (Jurek Rakoczynski)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: A/C manifold gauges question
Date: 9 Sep 92 23:05:29 GMT
Organization: AG Communication Systems, Phoenix, Arizona

In article <1992Sep9.195545.4121@newsgate.sps.mot.com>, mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw) writes:
> 
> I concur with James Swonger's comments on A/C gage pressures and diagnosis.  The inner
> R12 scale can also be used for a quick charge check.  That scale basically indicates the
> temperature of R12 that would give that pressure reading.  
> 
> In the early morning a car usually has had time to cool down to ambient temperature overnight
> and it is not yet being heated up by the sun.  Threfore the ambient temperature is usually the
> same as the temperature of the A/C system.  If you connect the gage at this time, the inner R12
> reading should match the ambient temperature if your have a sufficient charge.  

I agree on this part.  I used the pressure reading (on the wrong
scale, I used air, not R12) when the car was off to get the air
ambient temp.  But I think your next paragraph is misleading.

> If the indicated R12 temperature is less, you are undercharged.  If the indicated R12
> temperature is more, you are overcharged.  Rather simple and you don't have to deal  with
> those higher running pressures.  This method is not precise (doesn't actually tell how much
> freon to add/subtract) but is the next best thing to watching a sight glass for bubbles.

The R12 pressure (or is temperature the correct word?) in a
non-operating system should be the same no matter what the total
charge is, as long as there is still liquid R12 in the system.  For
example, the pressure in a propane tank will read the same at a given
temperature no matter how much propane is actually in the tank. 
That's why you can't used static pressure as a charge indicator.

BTW, The vehicle is a `83 Chevy Suburban, CCOT A/C w/o the rear A/C
evaporator.  As for my problem, if I adjust my readings from memory
to the correct scale, at ~105F, I was reading ~300psi high side, and
~55psi low side.  I could not get the low side below ~55psi without
the system being undercharged; the evaporator inlet and accumulator
outlet were warm.  This is even after I replaced the fan thermal
clutch with a solid adapter from NAPA.

With my new_found knowledge, I'll put the gauges on this weekend and
try again.
-- 
Jurek Rakoczynski, AG Communication Systems, POB 52179, Phoenix, AZ. 85072
UUCP: ...!{ncar!noao!enuucp | att}!gtephx!rakoczynskij  Voice: +1 602 581 4867
Inet: gtephx!rakoczynskij@enuucp.eas.asu.edu              Fax: +1 602 582 7111
Inet: /DD.UN=J.RAKOCZYNSKI/O=GTE/PRMD=GTEMAIL/ADMD=TELEMAIL/C=US/@sprint.com
From: dlou@WORF.UCSD.EDU (Dennis Lou)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: estimating real performance gains
Date: 7 Sep 92 18:29:16 GMT
Reply-To: dlou@ece.ucsd.edu
Organization: University of California, San Diego


Given a car's curb weight, max horsepower rating, max torque rating, etc.
is it possible to ESTIMATE how much an increase in horsepower/torque
would be necessary to reduce the 0-60 time by 1 second (assuming the
change in timing, exhaust manifold, or whatever does not cause the 
power/torque to decrease along any point of its original curve)?

How about the necessary reduction in weight?  reduction by 1 second  in
1/4 mile times?  top speed?


-- 
Dennis Lou             || "But Yossarian, what if everyone thought that way?"
dlou@ucsd.edu          || "Then I'd be crazy to think any other way!"
[backbone]!ucsd!dlou   |+====================================================
dlou@ucsd.BITNET       |Steve Jobs and Steve Wozniak went to my high school.
From: bradstoc@brahms.udel.edu (Craig A Bradstock)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: pinging in Firebird
Date: 16 Sep 92 00:12:19 GMT
Organization: University of Delaware

My 79 'bird has a pinging problem which is worst when the throttle is 
barely open.  If I am driving along about 65mph there is significant pinging
which will go away if I ease into the throttle or floor it.  Actually, there
is still some pinging when I do that, but it is far less.  I have checked the 
timing, EGR valve, and replaced a bunch of emissions hoses, but no luck.

Does this sound like a problem with the distributor?  Too much vacuum advance?  Any advice would be appreciated.  Also, the car pings when cold as well as when hot.

Thanks,

Craig
From: hugo@bluehau.bubble.org (Hugo Bueno)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Dirty oil after change?
Keywords: oil changes
Date: 9 Sep 92 23:58:27 GMT
Organization: The Blue House

sgm@otter.hpl.hp.com (Steve Methley) says:
]neilw@informix.com (Neil Williams) in <1992Sep7.173024.14772@informix.com>:
]
]> My SO recently had her oil changed at a local gas station.  When I went
]> with her to pick up her car, I took a look at the dipstick.
]> I was very surprised to see that the oil still looked pretty dirty....
]> .. but I know that my oil looks clear and brand-new after a change...
]> ..for service not performed, or they didn't change the filter...
]
]Well, I do my own oil changes on three cars and each time the oil is clear for
]weeks/months afterwards.  I do use a flushing oil every other change (not
]additive, real flushing oil) on the two with hydraulic tappets however, but the
]other is just as clean.  The cars are all high mileage, one is >120k miles.
]
]I'd be wondering whether they didn't change the filter too....  Try smelling
]the oil !  Used oil has a very distinctive 'burnt' odour compared to new oil
]IMHO, due to dissolved carbon and petrol.

As a counter-data point, and one which I venture to guess
is much closer to reality.....

I've done countless oil changes on cars and I have YET to see
one that has clear oil after the change.  This even includes
changing the filter and using engine flushes.

-- 
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Hugo Bueno  |Delphi  : MRGOOD  CIS: 71211,3662
Fanwood, NJ |Internet: hugo@bluehau.bubble.org
CoCo 3 UUCP |UUCP    : ...!s4mjs!bluehau!hugo
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: eur@dutncp2.tn.tudelft.nl (Eur van Andel)
Subject: Re: Handbrakes /discbrakes
Organisation: TU Delft, The Netherlands
Organization: Delft University of Technology
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 10:08:13 GMT

In <9209031818.AA03075@wotke.vicor.com> danapple@vicor.com writes:


>> eur@dutncp2.tn.tudelft.nl (Eur van Andel) writes:
>> Dear netters
>> 
>> After spending some time under my two Alfa's (with inboard rear discs)
>> I wondered how the general solution is for braking with the handbrake
>> on rear discs.

>> How is it done? How do you move the slave cylinder mechanically?

>I think there are at least two possible solutions to this problem.  My
>1986 Supra with 4 wheel discs uses one.  A friends 1987 300Z with 4
>wheel discs uses another.  

>The Supra actually has drum brakes built into the rear axle hubs.  The
>handbrake mechanically actuates the drum brakes to hold the car on
>hills.  I once used the handbrake to stop the car, to see if it would
>work, and it did, but needed readjustment afterward.  The little drums
>are designed for holding, and stopping *once*.  I don't believe they
>have any cool air supply.

So the Supra has discbrakes AND drumbrakes at the rear? Strange...

>The 300Z uses a cable to actuate the rear calipers for the disc
>brakes.  Now that I think about it, though, you were asking for
>details of this activation, which I don't know.  Sorry.  

>Cars like the Supra only have a single piston in the brake caliper
>anyway, the it is only the inner pad that ever gets pushed.  The
>caliper is floating, however, which means it can move along the axis
>of the bolts holding.  So pushing on one pad means the caliper moves,
>and the outer pad also contacts this disc.  Are you sure the Alfa is
>not set up this way?

Definitely. The caliper is bolted to the gearbox and cannot move.
I know the mechanism that you describe: it's on nearly _all_ discbrakes
after '84


>Hope you at least find the Supra solution entertaining.  I like it
>since it means I have six brakes.

Entertaining yes. But the question is answered!
From: Steve.Kaess@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Steve Kaess)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP