HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: vcook@sierra.com (Victor Cook)
Subject: Re: header help
Organization: Sierra Geophysics Inc.,  Kirkland, Wa
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 22:46:09 GMT

Hooker makes unwelded kits for selected applications. They also offer 
mandrel bent U-tubes in a variety of diameters. If you have a unique
engine, chances are good that you will have to fabricate your own flange
assembly. Use a gasket for a template and either plasma cut or machine
the flange from 1/4 - 5/16" thick material.

Some basic tricks for the beginner:
 
1)  Use a chop saw to cut the U-bends. 
2)  ALWAYS cut the tube perpendicular to the centerline.
3)  Start with the longest tube.
4)  Finish with the shortest tube.
5)  If possible, allow a couple of inches of straight tube out of the
    flange prior to the first bend.
6)  Plan ahead and try to use as few short sections as possible.
7)  The bigger the tubes, the harder the job.
8)  Tack weld only during mock-up. 
9)  Finish weld with a wire feed or a TIG and silicon bronze rod. (Low
    heat means less warpage.
10) When finish welding, keep header assembly bolted to a cylinder
    head.

If all else fails, most drag race chassis shops will custom build
headers. Just bring money.

  
-- 
 
\\\\\\\\                            Sierra Geophysics, Inc.      >>
     >>>>   \/ | <   < () () |<     vcook@sierra.COM   -or-  ====>>>>
////////                            uunet!sgihbtn!vcook          >>
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: kspousta@qualcom.qualcomm.com (Kevin Spousta)
Subject: Olds W-31 info..
Organization: Qualcomm, Inc., San Diego, CA
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 21:56:40 GMT

I'm looking for clubs/dealers/junkyards in the Southern California area
where I can find all or some of the parts to the W-31 package that came on
some of the early '70s Cutlass machines.  I've got a '71 Cutlass Supreme with
the 350 Rocket motor and would like to massage the mill a bit but want to
keep it all Olds (The car has <60k original miles on it)  I've heard of an
Olds club in LA somewhere, but I'm unable to locate them.  If anyone knows
of an Olds Club or a junkyard that specializes in Olds parts, PLEASE E-mail
me or reply to this message here..

Thanks!!


Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: Buick big blocks/switch-pitch torque converters
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 19:54:31 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

In article <1992Nov09.154219.27549@bnr.ca> Peon w/o Email priv (Eric Youngblood) writes:
>In article <1992Nov9.133730.4363@mlb.semi.harris.com>, jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger) writes:
>|>
>|>  If you have the ST-400 trans, the gizmo that switches the torque 
>|> converter pitch could have a big effect on off-the-line behavior and
>|> idle. It's a switch mechanism mounted on the intake, driver's side rear.
>|> You should be in high-stall at idle and WOT, low stall at part throttle.
>|> Staying in low stall all the time will make your idle hard to live with;
>|> permanent high-stall will keep you slipping as you cruise.
>|> -- 
>
>Is there a converter like this for the TH350/400 tranny's?  I am reluctant to
>put a high stall converter in my street driven TA.  The low stall speed really
>kills off-the-line launch but I can pass a few gas stations.
>

 This transmission is an evolutionary fluke. It's sort of a bridge between
the earlier Dynaflow type, which had a continuously-variable torque
converter operated by a linkage from the throttle, and the fixed-pitch
three-speed automatics of later years. The ST400 has two stall speeds,
one low (maybe even lower than normal) and one fairly high.

 The Super Turbine 400 has the same case and guts as the TH400. There is a
solenoid inside which changes the stator pitch of the torque converter. 
The ST400 was produced up until about 1968 and can be found in cars like
Buick Wildcats, Electras, etc. The 1969-up models do not have them.
The advantage was that you could use a fairly "big" cam and still idle
nicely, haul that boat up to speed and then cruise as frugally as possible.
The 430s had cams with about .450 - .490 (somewhere in there; I forget 
what I measured) of lift and 10.2:1 CRs, but they were in Buicks and
had to idle like it.

 The transmission will be BOP-pattern. If your T/A is older, you're set.
If it's one of the newer ones, everything's Chevy-pattern, isn't it?
Your cheapest option is to find a junker '67 Buick cruise ship. If that
isn't possible, I know Poston sells the switch-pitch converters and the 
solenoid/connector/instructions to convert regular TH400s to the same
mode. They also have a couple of torque converters with different speed
sets, (higher and much higher) for folks who like to drag race Buicks
and then drive them home.
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: HEELLLLLPPPP!!!!!
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 17:55:29 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 Sounds like things are just a bit too lean. How's the choke? Thermac 
hooked up? A carb rebuild can't always be finished on the bench. Maybe
the primary mixture needs adjusted. Try the choke/fast idle first though,
if it runs OK warm.
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
From: GDG104@psuvm.psu.edu
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
Subject: Re: Building/hopping up my 91 Mustang 5.0 LX
Date: 13 Nov 92 14:35:18 GMT
Organization: Penn State University


  This is my first time reading or replying to this news group, but I like it a
lready.  Anyway, I am replying to the questions about hopping up a '91 Mustang.
 I own  1985 GT and have made some of the modifications like adding Flowmaster
mufflers and under drive pulleys.  The area around where I live is swarming wit
h Mustang nuts and most of us are into modifying our cars to make them go faste
r.  The majority of the guys prefer the flowmaster mufflers.  They have been te
sted in one magazine that I read as giving a 10 HP increase over the stock muff
lers.  On my car I use flowmasters along with an H-pipe with "gutted" converter
s from and '86 5.0 liter.  I also installed the underdrive pulleys.  They make
a bigger difference than you think!  But probably the biggest single advancemen
t I made in performance was the installation of my 3.55 gears. (stock ratio was
 a wimpy 2.73)  It felt like going from a Yugo to a 'Vette.  I could go on fore
ver about 5.0 Mods so I better stop now.  Hope I helped you. Good luck!


P.S.  If there are any other 5.0 nuts out there I would enjoy exchanging info.
and opinions.  I've got quite a few sources to answer questions too. (My mechan
ic won the 5.0 liter shootout at Maple Grove two years ago) so feel free to E-m
ail.
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: (Eric Youngblood)
Subject: Advance Tuning (Gas or Springs?)
Reply-To: Peon w/o EMAIL priv (Eric Youngblood)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Richardson, Tx
Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1992 17:12:52 GMT


Well now that the season has turned cooler I have been contemplating my 
seasonal distributor spring change. (I can run a *very* aggressive centrifigal
advance curve during cool weather)  This improves the power output and results
in better acceleration times.  I am wondering if instead I should just switch
to lower octane gas (I currently use 93 octane) in that the lower octane will
burn faster thus creating peak pressure sooner similar to advanced timing with
high octane.

Will lower octane have this affect or am I just trying to get out of some work?

Thanks,

Ericy
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: gchen@sloth.Reed.Edu (Mark Aranethes Jinglewood Chen)
Subject: we need a FAQ
Organization: Reed College, Portland, OR
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 22:45:23 GMT

if someone could post a faq or something that includes vocabulary words
that would be great.
like "header" for example
i really don't know too much about cars
and, i could be mistaken, but this is the place to learn
mark
Organization: Sophomore, Physics, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 23:12:29 -0500 
From: Stephen James Kendrish <sk4k+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: F-Body Stability


In concern to the comment made about 5.7 liter IROCS rarely ever seen
with T-tops.  When I was at the speed shop this weekend there was an '88
GTA with 350 and of course, T-tops.  I've seen many GTAs with T-tops and
the 5.7 liter engine.  I don't seem to understand the "don't know if the
body can handle a powerful engine" comment.  Explain?

Steve

P.S.  About the guy who'd drive nothing but a manual transmission.  Tell
me an easy and cost effective way to replace my 700R4 with a five speed
and I won't give you any hassle.  
Organization: Freshman, CIT general, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
Date: Wed,  4 Nov 1992 21:21:56 -0500 
From: "Nathan J. Nagel" <nn22+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: '49 Chevy Exhaust

   I have a '49 Chevy 2-door fastback body and frame laying around, and
also a Chevy 350/Turbo 350 combination.  My question is this: if and
when I put them together, could anyone advise as to what kind of
headers/manifolds I could use and still clear the stock steering box? 
The only manifolds I have now are the standard Chevy ones that dump out
the back.  Keep in mind, if at all possible, that I am a poor college
student and have almost no money.  Any help on this would be greatly
appreciated.

Thanks...

-Nate (nn22+@andrew.cmu.edu)
From: walkerr@bigwpi.WPI.EDU (Robert A Walker)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
Subject: Re: Buick big blocks
Date: 6 Nov 1992 05:23:18 GMT
Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute
NNTP-Posting-Host: bigwpi.wpi.edu

>Big question, commonly asked, I'm sure:  I have a Buick Electra 225 Convertible
>with the 430, all stock.  I'm a Modern Man and will not put up with fussing
>with the engine, dist., carb, etc.  In order to make my engine more reliable
>and run more efficiently, I'm thinking about 1.) upgrading the 4-bbl QJet
>to a Holley 2-bbl closed-loop fuel injection (big bucks - $800?), and 2.)
>upgrading the ignition system to some sort of electronic version.  I've
>looked into the various GM HEI replacements, and they don't seem all-electronic.
>You have to replace one or two thingamabobs every tune-up.  Why would I want
>to go whole hog and upgrade to a semi-street/race Mallory true electronic
>ignition?  Is it worth the additional cost?
>
>This car is and always will be a "cruiser".  I don't give a hoot about
>top-end horsepower, just reliability.

	Just my opinion, but the simpler the more reliable.  And even if 
something does go wrong, easy to fix.

Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: chucko@kronos.arc.nasa.gov (Chuck Fry)
Subject: Re: Building/hopping up my 91 Mustang 5.0 LX
Organization: Recom Technologies, NASA Ames Research Center, Moffett Field, CA
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 15:24:59 GMT


Fellow late-model Mustang fanatics should know there's a mailing list
devoted to these cars!  Send mail to mustangs-request@hpda.cup.hp.com
to get added to the list.  (Gary will probably hate me for this; he's
on vacation, and doesn't expect the hordes of requests this post will
bring...)

 -- Chuck Fry  Chucko@charon.arc.nasa.gov
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: ebcurg@eua.ericsson.se (Ulf Rosberg)
Subject: WANTED: Address to hot rod dealers in Florida
Organization: Ellemtel Telecom Systems Labs, Stockholm, Sweden
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 07:48:52 GMT

Hi !


I have Mustang -69 and need some parts ...

I will visit Florida (Tampa and Orlando) in end of November
and I need some addresses to dealers there.


Thanks.
-- 
------------------------------------------------------
    /   /  /     /~~~    
   /   /  /     /~~    
  /___/  /___  /        ( = wolf )
From: ian@pharaoh.cyborg.bt.co.uk (Speed Freak)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
Subject: Re: VR or HR Rated Tires
Date: 6 Nov 92 15:47:24 GMT
Organization: large

RSANDLE@auvm.american.edu writes:

>I am getting ready to replace the tires on my Integra. Although it is not a rod
>nor a custom, maybe someone out there can tell me the truth about the differenc
>e in handling caused by VR or HR rated tires. Tire merchants tell conflicting
>stories and it has become hard to tell if there is any truth behind any of it.

It is the brand and the type of tyre that make the difference.  The biggest
influences are tread width and aspect ratio.  Generally a lower aspect ratio
will give faster steering response.  However it is very complicated as there
are a lot of other factors such as the rim width being used &c.  Just buy
a tyre that other people recommend or you know is good from magazine tests.
There is no point fitting a VR rated tyre for the sake of it.  Some very
grippy, high performance, street legal, but competition oriented tyres are not
even HR rated!  Others are ZR rated, but are no better (unless you plan on
cruising at 150mph+).

Ian.
-- 
We have no power to prevent ourselves being born; but we can rectify this
error - for it is sometimes an error.

Ian Crocker 					ian@cyborg.bt.co.uk
From: ted@drycas.club.cc.cmu.edu
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
Subject: Re: Good performace mods
Date: 13 Nov 92 05:10:10 -0500
Distribution: world
Organization: Carnegie Mellon Computer Club

In article <1dnd7hINNfc9@bigboote.WPI.EDU>, damong@pacman.WPI.EDU (Damon Francis Gentile) writes:
> Hey all, I was wondering if you can help me slect some perfomance mods
> for my "project". It is a '74 Fiat X1/9 1290 cc, mid engine, rear drive.
> 
> I was thinking of perhaps a new camshaft (~$300) or maybe a performace
> milled head (~$LOT) or maybe even a stroker kit to go to 1.8 (~$1300).
> Perhaps also a lightened flywheel, or dual carbs (but for hard street
> driving, would a rejet be better for a dual 32mm Webber ?)
> 
> 
> Thanks all,
> Damon
> 

  Hmmm, anyway to fit a v8 in there?  heh heh...:>
               TED

Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: scottv@rs6414.ecs.rpi.edu (Vaughan K. Scott)
Subject: porting heads
Summary: what is it?
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 17:22:33 GMT

	What exactly does it mean to port your head(s)?  What does the process 
involve?  (Sorry for the stupid question, I'm new to rods, and there are very
few in my area (Troy, NY)).

Thanks
Vaughan Scott
scottv@rpi.edu
From: ted@drycas.club.cc.cmu.edu
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
Subject: Re: Building/hopping up my 91 Mustang 5.0 LX
Date: 13 Nov 92 05:49:11 -0500
Organization: Carnegie Mellon Computer Club

In article <1992Nov12.024406.14676@stiatl.salestech.com>, cbm@stiatl.salestech.com (Chris Medders) writes:
> First off, *great* group !!  I'm kind of a novice in this area and am excited
> about getting to read & learn from all you experienced folks out there.  I
> recently bought my first muscle car, a '91 Mustang LX 5.0 convertible and I
> now have 'the need for speed' !  There's nothing like being on an open stretch
> of highway, nothing (or noone) in sight, and opening it up...  At any rate, my
> first tune-up included adding Spitfire(?) spark plugs, advancing the timing
> (per the tech at Dugan Mustang), and replacing the stock air filter with a
> K&N racing filter (1,000,000 mile warranty - I liked that one!).  I have been
> told that the 'next' addition I need to do is replacing my mufflers with
> Flowmaster mufflers then replacing my 'cables & pulleys' with the non-parasitic
> type pulleys.  As I previously mentioned, I am a novice (software engineer, NOT
> *mechanical* engineer) so any/all input & suggestions will be appreciated.
> Thanks !
> 
> -Chris
> 
> p.s.  I forgot to mention that I have a manual transmission - is there such a
> thing as a "shift kit" for a Mustang ?  Again, thanks !
> 
> -- 
> -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Chris B. Medders   | "All I want is a fast car, a million buck$, a LOUD guitar,
> (w) (404) 841-4903 |  and, oh yeah, world peace - but the car part will do for
> cbm@stiatl.com     |  now..." :-)  %->  {|-) ;-> :^) 

  I  agree with your opinion of this new group!  :)  Flowmaster mufflers?  I
like good ol' glasspacks!  You know, the ones that look like a propane cylender
on the outside and you can look in one end and see out the other???  Dual
exhaust is a MUST for any self respecting hot rod! (v8 assummed!)  You can
improve the performance 100% by getting rid of all that pollution control
garbage (and I use the term pollution control very lightly...most of it is
useless except for making big bucks for the car companies) but I don't know
if they check that kind of thing in your area...
             TED

p.s. "Muscle car" usually refers to cars of the 60's
  
  Shift kits are only for automatic transmissions...
From: ted@drycas.club.cc.cmu.edu
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
Subject: Re: Buick big blocks
Date: 13 Nov 92 05:01:16 -0500
Organization: Carnegie Mellon Computer Club

In article <1992Nov09.154219.27549@bnr.ca>, (Eric Youngblood) writes:
> In article <1992Nov9.133730.4363@mlb.semi.harris.com>, jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger) writes:
> |>
> |>  If you have the ST-400 trans, the gizmo that switches the torque 
> |> converter pitch could have a big effect on off-the-line behavior and
> |> idle. It's a switch mechanism mounted on the intake, driver's side rear.
> |> You should be in high-stall at idle and WOT, low stall at part throttle.
> |> Staying in low stall all the time will make your idle hard to live with;
> |> permanent high-stall will keep you slipping as you cruise.
> |> -- 
> 
> Is there a converter like this for the TH350/400 tranny's?  I am reluctant to
> put a high stall converter in my street driven TA.  The low stall speed really
> kills off-the-line launch but I can pass a few gas stations.
> 
> Anyone know?
> 
> $0.02
> Ericy

  I doubt you're saving much gas with a low stall speed converter...you sure
you aren't confusing this with having a high ratio rear end?  Besides, real
hot rodders are concerned with power and speed and such, not gas mileage!  :>
heh heh...:>  :>  :>

               TED

Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: rodder@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Jon D. Rodder)
Subject: Re: Buick big blocks
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin, Austin TX
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 20:08:08 GMT

In article <Bx9FCv.83K@csn.org> kuo@teal.csn.org (Spencer Shafer) writes:
>Big question, commonly asked, I'm sure:  I have a Buick Electra 225 Convertible
>with the 430, all stock.  I'm a Modern Man and will not put up with fussing
>with the engine, dist., carb, etc.  In order to make my engine more reliable
>and run more efficiently, I'm thinking about 1.) upgrading the 4-bbl QJet
>to a Holley 2-bbl closed-loop fuel injection (big bucks - $800?), and 2.)
>upgrading the ignition system to some sort of electronic version.  I've
>looked into the various GM HEI replacements, and they don't seem all-electronic.
>You have to replace one or two thingamabobs every tune-up.  Why would I want
>to go whole hog and upgrade to a semi-street/race Mallory true electronic
>ignition?  Is it worth the additional cost?
>

I would reccomend going to an HEI distributor.  Yes, it does have mechanical
parts that have to be replace a few times, the cap and rotor, just like
any distributor.  Someday you will probably also have to replace the module,
or you can eliminate the module with an MSD-6AL and msd HEI conversion kit.
As far as the fuel system goes, I think very poorly of the Holley
projection system.  The TBI unit itself isn't too bad, but their control
system doesn't impress me at all.  I think there are some places that
sell kits that use the projection throttlebody with a GM computer, but
personally I don't think its worth the money.  Unless you just really
want to spend $1000 or more on a new fuel system, I'd reccomend just
getting the Q-jet rebuilt by a good carb shop.
 

-- 
--=< Jon D. Rodder ----- rodder@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu >=-- 
    \    IRC-Op at tramp.cc.utexas.edu (Rodder)   /
     \    89 Jeep Wrangler - 258/PIECE OF JUNK!  / 
      \        79 Rx-7 - 12A/Holley 4bbl        / 
       \________67 Camaro RS - 350/4spd________/ 
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: bigjoe@netcom.com (gordon perry)
Subject: Re: Buick big blocks
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 01:52:05 GMT


Thanks for the info on the Buick parts suppliers. I have a great old 73
Regal with an almost perfect body but with a motor which has not been
run in almost 6 yeas. I was stored under cover here in San Jose, CA and was in
fact, given to me to get rid of it. Wonder if you have any info on warming up
the 73 California smogged 350 4b like mine. Would appreciate any info from
other 350 Buick owners.
--------------------------Gordon Perry--------------------------------------
--------------------------bigjoe@netcom.com---------------------------------
---------------------------73 Regal  80 Firechicken--------------------------
From: ted@drycas.club.cc.cmu.edu
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
Subject: Re: 351 Lust
Date: 13 Nov 92 04:54:47 -0500
Organization: Carnegie Mellon Computer Club

In article <1992Nov9.141559.6438@walter.bellcore.com>, mdl@oscar.bellcore.com (Michael Lynch) writes:
> I'm in the process of customizing a '53 Ford Mainline Tudor, and all along
> I've intended to have the flathead rebuilt.  Now temptation rears its ugly
> head.  A local garage is parting out a battered '70 Torino, and I just
> stopped to look at the engine.  It's a 351 with a high-performance cam and
> a Holly (600?) 4BBL.  The tranny is a C6 with a newly rebuilt torque
> converter.  The rear is the venerable Ford 9-inch.  The owner doesn't know
> much about the condition of the engine.  He says that as far as he knows
> it doesn't burn oil.  Beyond that he can't say much.  He wants $400 for
> the engine (complete), $400 for the tranny, and $300 for the rear.  I don't
> know what the ratio is.
> 
> How do these prices sound?  I haven't really been in the market for an
> engine/tranny like this, because I've been suffering from flatheaditis.
> 
> 
> Mike Lynch
> mdl@oscar.bellcore.com

  Those prices sound OUTRAGEOUS to me!  Offer him $400 for the whole car!   
If he won't take it I'd shop around a bit...maybe find and old ford that's
been wrecked...good luck!
           TED
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom