HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: bjgaed@bb1t.monsanto.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Karmann Ghia info sought
Date: 22 Jul 92 06:49:45 CST
Organization: Monsanto Company, St. Louis, MO

In article <92203.082831GARN@SLACVM.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU>, GARN@SLACVM.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU (GARY NIEMI) writes:
> I would like to find some sources for Karmann Ghia information.  I have a
> '65 Karmann Ghia and I wonder if there is a book that I could use to figure
> out what the original parts for the car are.  I would like to generally
> restore the car to its original condition.  For instance, the speedometer
> doesn't work so I wonder if I could use a Bug speedometer from the same or
> other years to replace it.  I've heard of great Bug restoration books, but
> none for the Karmann Ghia.  Does the Bentley manual have this type of info?
> 
> Also, does anyone know of a place to get original speedometers?  Or should I
> hit the junkyards?
> -Gary


The Bentley Manual for the 1200 Volkswagen is not only excellent, it 
is the *only* source I have ever found for early Ghia info.  It does 
not have many original part numbers, but those can usually be found in 
a good parts catalog.  It is huge (about the size of a good-sized city 
telephone book), and has such nice things as separate sections for the 
Ghia electrical system for both the coupe and the vert.  Expect to pay 
about $60 for this tome.

For parts, my best source is House of Ghia in Oregon.  They advertise 
every month in the VW mags.  They send a regular newsletter to 
customers with tips and info as well.  They will rebuild your speedo 
or clock.  Pricey!!  But they are the only source for such things as 
door strikers (unique to Ghia and changed almost every year) as they 
rebuild them with custom-fabricated parts.

I doubt if you would find a Ghia in a junkyard.  According to H. of G. 
there are a steadily-increasing number of Ghias on the road as more 
are restored and registered.  

Now, if the machine shop will just give me back my crank and case, I 
can start converting those 300+ car parts in my garage back into a '64 
Ghia...

--Bruce Gaede

Steamin' on the river in St. Louis.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: ptimmerm@kathy.jpl.nasa.gov (Paul Timmerman)
Subject: Attn: jgd@dixie.com
Reply-To: ptimmerm@kathy.jpl.nasa.gov (Paul Timmerman)
Organization: Jpl.Nasa.Gov
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 16:26:48 GMT

I am interested in your offer John, as I have read many of your informative posts
in various groups.  (You read more News than Me!)  I can't find your domain in
my naming server.  Please post or send direct to me email to:

	ptimmerm@kathy.jpl.nasa.gov   128.149.61.4

Thanks in advance, damn the piston, turn up the boost!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: burden_d@oass.enet.dec.com ()
Subject: Re: 82 RABBIT: oil light, problem?
Reply-To: burden_d@oass.enet.dec.com ()
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 13:08:40 GMT


The oil light does not indicate oil level, but pressure (just in case you
didn't know.)  My personal recommendation is to install a mechanical oil
pressure guage to remove all doubt as to what the problem is.  You can
probably get one and install it your self for around $30-$40, but I haven't
bought one in 3-4 years so my prices may be off.

A garage should also be able to install one for testing to see if the pressure
is okay.  Once it's warmed up the pressure should be around 72 psi under
load and around 30-40 at idle.  If the oil gets *really* hot it might drop
to 20 psi at idle.

--
Dave Burden                                      ______--------___
Digital Equip Corp - Alpharetta, GA             /|             / |
                                     o___________|_\__________/__|
burden_d@oass.enet.dec.com          ]|___     |   |=  ||  =|___  |"
                                    //   \\   |   |___||_///   \\|"
                                    |  X  |\-------------/|  X  |\"
                                     \___/ 1924 Studebaker \___/
					Special 6 Touring Car
From: kiviat@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Brian Kiviat)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Idle Prob. '86 GTI-FIXED!
Date: 27 Jul 92 11:38:43 GMT
Reply-To: kiviat@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Brian Kiviat)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.autos.vw, kiviat@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Brian Kiviat) writes:
>The idle has been dropping to about 4-500 rpm and causing a major vibration
>resonance. The car sometimes stalls at idle with the A/C on. Has my
>idle control module fried?
>
>-Brian

I replaced the idle stabilizer control valve ($162-Big Bucks)
The problem is fixed.

The parts dept at the dealer wanted $182, I bought it elsewhere for
$162.

Thanks for the suggestions,

Brian
From: dmm@hal.gnu.ai.mit.edu (Andrew Mathieson Moore)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: ghia: gas leaks into crankcase
Date: 24 Jul 92 11:11:59 GMT
Distribution: us
Organization: MIT Laboratory for Computer Science

I had a problem with my 1967 ghia (type 1) -- there was gas leaking into
the crankcase.  Lots of gas.  I think I finally got the problem solved
by replacing the fuel pump, but I'd like to hear if anyone else has
had similar problems, and if so, what the solution was.  I rebuilt the
carb, but doubt that was the problem since so much fuel was leaking in --
much more than the carb could hold.  A repro fuel pump was all I could
find, so I put that in, and the oil level ont he dipstick has remained
the same for several weeks (good sign).  It still smells like gas
though (bad sign), but this may be residue from the problem before.
The pushrod to the fuel pump has gas all over it when I removed the old
pump, so I suspect this was where the problem was.  

Has anyone else had similar problems?  If gas keeps leaking, where
should I look next?

-drew
 nv1b
 dmm@silver.lcs.mit.edu
    @gnu.ai.mit.edu
From: jeff@svl.cdc.com (Jeff Needham)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Corrado wheels
Date: 30 Jul 92 18:32:10 GMT

eliot@stalfos.engr.washington.edu (eliot) writes:


>The other question I have is:  with the 91 Corrados, VW went to a slightly
>wider wheel and 205/50 tires.  Did they alter the gearing to compensate
>for the extra tire diameter?  Should I get 205/50 or 195/50 replacement
>tires for the 1990 G60 in the interest of preserving the wheels?

The tire splitting controversy partially revolves around VW underestimating
the weight of the car to Pirelli and Continental.  195/50s are too small
for the car.

jeff

--
We threw the empty frame of reason out the cabin door
As we won't be needing reasons anymore" --- Eno/Cale
| Jeffrey Needham
| Yet Another Oracle Performance Group
| Control Data - Santa Clara, CA - INTERNET jeff@hawk.svl.cdc.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: sean@cs.tamu.edu (Sean Graves)
Subject: Questions about Night Design gauges
Organization: Computer Science Department, Texas A&M University
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 15:43:31 GMT


My '74 bug has been begging me for some gauges lately (really!).  So
I have been thinking about the VDO Night Design gauges.  My questions
are:
  -  Are these good quality?  I mean, the old gauge is VDO and it died
     long ago, so should I buy another VDO gauge?
     If not, what other brands are there?  I read the mags, and that is
     the only brand I see.
  -  What are the differences between Night Design and Cockpit, and the
     other VDO lines?  I have the impression that Night Design is backlit,
     while the others just have side lights shining on the faces, hence
     the price difference.
  -  In order to duplicate the stock functionality, what do I need to
     buy?  I doubt if the Night Design speedo will have the idiot lights,
     so I guess I need to buy a oil pressure guage and sender.  What about
     odometer?  I'll definitely need a separate fuel gauge.
  -  How difficult will it be to install these?  Will the new speedo fit
     into the old cutout?  I'm not worried about the other gauges too much.
  -  If you have purchased these from a particular shop, and gotten good
     service or pricing, I would appreciate hearing about it.

I asked about gauges a while ago with no response, so if
you have any information, please email.  I will summarize to the net.

--
Sean
sean@cs.tamu.edu
From: Ralph.C.Lindenfeld@dartmouth.edu (Ralph C. Lindenfeld)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: clarification: 14" 5-bolt rims wanted
Date: 29 Jul 92 13:32:33 GMT
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH

I talked with some folks who recommended I get 14" 5-bolts instead of
the stock 15" rims cuz the tyres are much less expensive. So, that's
what I want.

RL
From: davidw@pogo.wv.tek.com (David Woon)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Vanagon Syncro woes
Keywords: vanagon,driveline
Date: 31 Jul 92 00:33:39 GMT
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Wilsonville,  OR.


Hi there just thought I would see if any one out on net land owns a 
Vanagon Syncro and what kind of problems they have had.  Right now I
am reduced to rear wheel drive since the drive shaft went bad and VW 
does not sell parts to repair it you have to buy a whole new drive
line.  I have been quoted $550 to $850 to replace it, so i am holding 
off until winter.  If there is any out there that has simular problems
i would like to here from you.  I would like to here about the new front 
wheel drive van that is coming out.

Thanks Dave
From: eldred@rrunner.jpl.nasa.gov (Dan Eldred)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Advice on purchasing a used Rabbit.
Date: 31 Jul 92 16:41:36 GMT
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory

In article <maestro.004p@marble.rain.com> maestro@marble.rain.com (Pat Young) writes:
>Greetings, all.
>
>I am looking to retire my 1975 Valiantmobile in favor of a Rabbit. I'd like
>some advice on what to look for when buying one. I am not interested in a
>diesel Rabbit, and I'd like to get one that is fuel injected.  I have
>approx. $1000 cash (well, I can get more, but then I'll have to wait ;-(
>).  Since all of my friends locally have nothing good to say about VW's, I
>thought I'd turn to the net for advice.
> 
>Thanks in advance!!
> 
>Pat Young - maestro@marble.rain.com
>--
>       Signature under construction.....
>


You might try to get a '83 or '84, as this is the end of the line and
most of the bugs were worked out by then.  I hav an '84 with 165,000
miles and it is still in excellent condition.  The only major repair
has been replacement of the cylinder head at 100,000 miles due to a
bad valve (probably from hard driving).  Other than that, everything
has been pretty routine (brake pads, struts-once, CV boots-once, a
couple of water pumps, timing belt-once, spark plugs, oil, filters, ...).

	- Dan
From: "tom neumann" <tom.neumann@canrem.com>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: rumor: vw to build bu
Date: 21 Jul 92 20:58:22 EST
Reply-To: "tom neumann" <tom.neumann@canrem.com>
Distribution: rec
Organization: Canada Remote Systems


In Message-ID: <1992Jul15.161936.4649@galileo.cc.rochester.edu>
tgpt_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Tom Guptill) writes:

TG>There were Rabbits with 1.4 (England, I beleive), 1.5, 1,6, and 1.8 litre
TG>engines.  However, I beleive the only thing that the VW 1.7L engine was used
TG>in was the Dodge Omni.  (Yup, that's right.  The Dodge Omni.)

In Canada non-diesel Rabbits, Convertables, and Jettas had 1.7L 76 hp
engines from 1981 to 1984 (except 83 & 84 GTI and GLI which had the
1.8L 90 hp).

Sciroccos from 81 to part way through 83 also used this motor.

Tom Neumann
---
  DeLuxe 1.21 #350  I sell Volkswagens.
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario/Detroit, MI
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Corrado wheels
From: jan@camhpp12.mdcbbs.com (Jan Vandenbrande)
Date: 30 Jul 92 08:59:35 PDT
Organization: M&E (Division of EDS), Cypress CA

In article <Jul27.190547.20878@engr.washington.edu> eliot@lanmola.engr.washington.edu (eliot) writes:
>In article <1992Jul27.153246.4492@ee.rochester.edu> Mark Sirota <msirota@socrates.ee.rochester.edu> writes:
>>IMHO, 44/39 is *WAY* too high for a Corrado.  The only thing you gain from
>>such high pressure is fuel mileage...  I would think that your handling,
>>tire wear, and ride would be truly awful.  Something in the range of 32/28
>>to perhaps 35/30 would be more appropriate.
>
>But the sticker inside the door says 41/38 for full load.  (I might be
>off by 1 or 2 psi, but I'm pretty sure the front is > 40).  This is for a
>G60 that comes with P600s.  I will get the "normal" inflation pressure
>numbers tonight.  I think I've got mine at 42/38 right now.
>
>eliot
>
Yeah, and the VW dealer is equally perplexed about this. The SLCs
require a significantly lower pressure...around 32 rather than
closer to 40, and it's a heavier car (though the tires are wider).
Still clueless. 

Jan

-- 
Jan

jan@camhpp12.mdcbbs.com		(work)
jan@lipari.usc.edu		(school, usually works, forwards)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: tgpt_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Tom Guptill)
Subject: Re: Diesel Question
Organization: University of Rochester - Rochester, New York
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 92 20:12:44 GMT

>In rec.autos.vw, hsk@microplex.com (Harjeet Kalsi) writes:

>Summary:  Environment-- :-)   Engine life-- :-)  Pocket book-- :-(.


This isn't solely related to rec.autos.vw, but I'm wondering exactly what
the rules regarding diesels are in different states, and since there are so
many diesel VWs out there, it seems like the best place to ask.  Here's the
policy as I now understand it in New Hampshire:

	- There is _no_ tax on Diesel fuel at the pump

	- When registering your vehicle you pay a fee based on weight class. 
		(~~$64.00 for my Rabbit) and they stamp "NH FUEL TAX PAID"
		on the registration.  

	- This "NH FUEL TAX PAID" does _not_ exempt you from having to pay
		similiar fees in other states, though enforcement on small
		cars is usually nonexistent. 

	- It is possible to get away with registering a Diesel vehicle as a
		gas vehicle and avoid paying taxes entirely, though this is
		an offense punishable throught the NH standardized MV fine
		system.

	- Overall, expect to pay _much_ less at the pumps:  The last time I
		was home, I filled up for $0.91/gallon.  Also, most stations
		have Diesel pumps.  (Which can be enormously profitable 
		because no taxes are charged.) 


	Are similiar programs in effect in other states?  If not, how is it
handled?  (I know that it's taxed at the pump in NY.)  
-- 
|Tom Guptill           | tgpt_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu     |
|CPU Box 277445 U of R | tgpt_ltd@db1.cc.rochester.edu       |
|Rochester, NY 14627   |                                     |
|(716) 274-0351        |                                     |
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: (restrictor)was  Cracked headlight help
From: jan@camhpp12.mdcbbs.com (Jan Vandenbrande)
Date: 30 Jul 92 09:09:25 PDT
Distribution: usa
Organization: M&E (Division of EDS), Cypress CA

In article <1992Jul28.123202.16431@walter.cray.com> dilmore@cray.com (Robert J. Dilmore) writes:
>In article <4525@dove.nist.gov> keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov (Larry Keys) writes:
>>In article <1992Jul28.083737.13585@walter.cray.com> dilmore@cray.com (Robert J. Dilmore) writes:
>>>
>>>   
>>>    A neat thing I noticed while inspecting for possible removal, the
>>>air intake for the engine goes right into the VW logo in front. Visions
>>>of removing the logo to get better airflow danced through my head. I have 
>>>already removed the restrictor before the airbox. Any other cheap improve-
>>         ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>>>
>>>Robert
>>

Any idea if the Corrado's have that too?

>
>
>   This mod was suggested by APS's Tech line. Anybody have any info on 
>thier chips. They claim 5-10 increase at low end and high end with better
>"driveability" especially with the automatic? Price is about 250us.
>
>Robert
>

The G60 Corrado owners have long been tooling around with these chips.
I have the Autotech Stage 1 chip (there is also a Neuspeed Stage 1
chip, don't know how they differ) but in my case it has helped ALOT
especially with low end torque which the G60s lack.
So far no ill effects, gas mileage *slightly* better, probably because
you can stay in lower gears longer.

Jan
-- 
Jan

jan@camhpp12.mdcbbs.com		(work)
jan@lipari.usc.edu		(school, usually works, forwards)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: dilmore@cray.com (Robert J. Dilmore)
Subject: Cracked headlight help
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Distribution: usa
Date: 28 Jul 92 08:37:36 CDT

    The other day while I was riding home I had a stone hurled at me
and it put a bullseye type hole in my headlight. Is there anyway to 
repair the hole?. The headlight for my Passat costs 119.00 to 198.00
depending on which dealership I ask.
    I am thinking of replacing them with the h4 euro setup from APS,
has anybody had expirience with these? Are they USA legal? What are
the drawbacks of installing them?

    A neat thing I noticed while inspecting for possible removal, the
air intake for the engine goes right into the VW logo in front. Visions
of removing the logo to get better airflow danced through my head. I have 
already removed the restrictor before the airbox. Any other cheap improve-
ments for a KE-Motronic(?) 2.0 16v I could do?

Robert
From: greis@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Gayla Ann Greis)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Rabbit Pickup Wanted...
Date: 31 Jul 92 16:06:18 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Computing Services Division, University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
Originator: greis@csd4.csd.uwm.edu

I'm looking for a dependable rabbit pickup, ditz or gas is OK, with minimal
body damage (rust, dents...) although paint is unimportant. Motor can be
in most any condition, although I must be able to get the vehicle back to
Milwaukee from wherever I pick it up. I'm not looking to make another show
car of it at this point, although I want to put together a fairly stock
good looking daily driver.

If you have one for sale anywhere in the midwest, please respond to me.
I am in the Milwaukee, Wisconsin area, and will soon be traveling to 
Avilla Indiana for VW Summer National Festival. I hope to hear from you
all soon!
From: dilmore@cray.com (Robert J. Dilmore)
Subject: Re:(restrictor)was  Cracked headlight help
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Distribution: usa
Date: 28 Jul 92 12:32:02 CDT

In article <4525@dove.nist.gov> keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov (Larry Keys) writes:
>In article <1992Jul28.083737.13585@walter.cray.com> dilmore@cray.com (Robert J. Dilmore) writes:
>>
>>   
>>    A neat thing I noticed while inspecting for possible removal, the
>>air intake for the engine goes right into the VW logo in front. Visions
>>of removing the logo to get better airflow danced through my head. I have 
>>already removed the restrictor before the airbox. Any other cheap improve-
>         ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>>ments for a KE-Motronic(?) 2.0 16v I could do?
>>
>>Robert
>
>
>What's this about a "restrictor before the airbox".  I never knew about any
>restrictor.  How did you find out about this restrictor?  And isn't your
>engine the same as mine (1990 Jetta GLI 2.0 16v), i thought that it was
>a "CIS-E Motronic".  Maybe i'm wrong.  Anyway, tell me more about that
>restrictor.  If there's more power to be had I WANT IT TOO! Ok!  My brother
>would want it too seeing he has a 1990 Passat, with automatic (his wife
>made him get it) (snicker ;-].
>
   Yea I know, my wife made me get it too. (sigh!) 

   Okay here's the description. The air box is located under the fuel pump
assy. Towards the front of the air box there is a 2 inch hose that enters
the lower front of the box. You should notice what looks like a collar approx.
3/4 of an inch wide between the two. Here comes the fun part. You must remove
the rubber bands which hold the box down, hello knuckles, ouch! Then you pull 
the hose out of the front of the air box. Then you remove the restrictor that
looks like a horn. Please keep in mind that there are many breakable, removable
hoses still attached to the box while you are doing this.

   Most Vw's Jetta's have this restrictor as well but it is designed
differently.

   This mod was suggested by APS's Tech line. Anybody have any info on 
thier chips. They claim 5-10 increase at low end and high end with better
"driveability" especially with the automatic? Price is about 250us.

Robert

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: msirota@ee.rochester.edu (Mark Sirota)
Subject: Re: Will Scirocco springs fit GTI ???
Reply-To: Mark Sirota <msirota@socrates.ee.rochester.edu>
Organization: University of Rochester Department of Electrical Engineering
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 15:34:14 GMT

In article <Bs05vH.C4r@cs.dal.ca> gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca (Andy) writes:
> I can get Neuspeed Sport Springs from an 85 Scirocco. Will they fit
> on my 85 GTI ???

Probably not, since the Scirocco (both generations) is an A1 car, and your
GTI is an A2.  But call Neuspeed for the true answer.  (800) 423-3623.
-- 
Mark Sirota - Department of Electrical Engineering Systems Staff
University of Rochester, Rochester NY
 Internet: msirota@ee.rochester.edu
 UUCP:     rutgers!rochester!ur-valhalla!msirota
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: chilton@crc.ricoh.com (Jeff Chilton)
Subject: Re: Info wanted on the history of speed enforcement
Organization: RICOH California Research Center
Distribution: rec
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 92 19:05:54 GMT

f4ax@vax5.cit.cornell.edu writes:
> Does anyone out there know the history of speed enforcement and radar and
> the various other methods used to calculate the speed of an automobile over
> time.  I was sitting here wondering when speed traps began and how it has
> advanced over time to what it is today.  When were the first radar guns and
> detectors developed?  A brief history lesson would be greatly appreciated on
> all aspects if anyone knows it!!

   Well I don't know the whole history, but since you have an historical
   question, and I like to post this tidbit often:

    In the early days of of the horseless cairage/automobile, some states
    required that a person bearing a red flag walk some distance in front of
    the vehicle to warn pedestrians/equestrians that it was coming.


    To pass the flag bearer would be a violation, and therefor could be
    considered the earliest recognized form of a speed law violation.

    This is all from memory, my reference is long lost.  Just consider
    it an anequedote(sp?).