HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: X005CB@tamvm1.tamu.edu (Chris Barnes)
Subject: Re: Hunting ability in Labradors
Organization: Texas A&M University
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 13:49:18 GMT

In article <2A9BBA3C.4012@ics.uci.edu>
   tittle@ics.uci.edu (Cindy Tittle Moore) writes:
 
>*gasp*
>
>Are we in agreement?
>
>Well, with respect to this particular article, it looks like it...
 
*** Image of a popular female comedian here ****
It could happen !
 
 
>How about health certificates as well?  EG, labs would also have the
>OFA and CERF or Wind-Morgan numbers.
 
Certainly.  I just forgot to mention them.
 
 
>>But, since the AKC makes it's money by registering litters and dogs,
>>I just don't see this happening anytime soon.
>
>No, I think that would be the biggest problem.  The breed clubs might
>go for it, though.  And it sounds to me there are a lot of breeders
>who try to do this in the first place.  The problem is to get ALL the
>breeders to do so...
 
If the AKC made it a rule (ie.  no registering a litter until both
sire and dam had met the qualifications), I don't think the breeders
would have much choice in the matter.
 
No the question is:  how do we get the AKC moving on this?
 
      ----------------------------------------------
Chris Barnes            |
x005cb@tamvm1.tamu.edu  |  Only 7 more days until the start of
(409) 846-3273 (home)   |           hunting season (in Texas)
(409) 845-8454 (work)   |
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: jtchew@csa3.lbl.gov (JOSEPH T CHEW)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: dogs and pickup trucks (sad)
Date: 27 Aug 92 16:20:22 GMT
Organization: Lawrence Berkeley Laboratory - Berkeley, CA, USA
Reply-To: jtchew@csa3.lbl.gov
NNTP-Posting-Host: 128.3.254.198
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.3-4   

>I just want to plead with all of you who put your dogs 
>in the back of open pickup trucks to reconsider! Here's why:

You've heard of a catapult?  Get in an accident, or even just take 
emergency evasive action when the animal is in the wrong position,
and you'll have a dogapult.  

It doesn't take much ingenuity to figure out how to crosstie the
animal such that he can neither fly out nor jump over the side and
lynch himself (or get dragged).  Or you can buy products ready-made.
Or figure out how to fasten down his crate or travel carrier in the
bed of the truck.  

The dog running free around the bed of the pickup is one of those
things we all used to do until we learned better.  

--Joe
"Just another personal opinion from the People's Republic of Berkeley"
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: bsmart@bsmart.TTI.COM (Bob Smart)
Subject: Re: Feeding Dogs Veggies and Fruit?
Reply-To: bsmart@bsmart.TTI.COM (Bob Smart)
Organization: Citicorp+TTI
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 02:54:58 GMT

In article <17atdeINNmjc@gw.home.vix.com>, shedevil@vix.com (Anne P.
Mitchell JD) writes:
> Tazi will eat almost anything, so far..she loves raw baby carrots,
> slices of zucchini, you name it.

I don't think that's uncommon.  I have three cocker mixes (all pound
puppies and strays, but that's what they look like) and they all go
NUUUTZ for grapes.  I have grapevines in the back yard, and you can tell
how high the dogs can reach, because that's the Line of Death below
which there are never any ripe grapes.  There are strawberries growing
under the grapevines, and it's been YEARS since I've seen a ripe
strawberry.  Thieving monsters.

On the other side of the yard is a peach tree, and I've seen one of the
dogs in particular locate peaches that have fallen and systematically
devour them, right down to the pits (ptooie).

None of these dogs seem to be interested in citrus--when oranges fall
off the tree, they leave them alone, and they never "poach" my limes. 
However, I've discussed this with other people and have heard of dogs
who are just as enthusiastic about grapefruits and lemons as mine are
about grapes and peaches.

They've all been doing this for a long time, and the only apparent
effect it has on them is the occasional blue tongue (they're Concord
grapes) or, in extreme cases, blue poop.  They all get a regular diet of
vet-recommended dogfood.

I used to be able to give them icecubes to play with, and they'd bark
and play and chase and chew on them until nothing was left but little
puddles, but lately they've wised up and won't fall for it any more. 
Too bad, ice cubes were LOTS cheaper than doggie-cookies and chew toys!

---------

A fanatic is someone who does what he knows that God would do if God knew the
facts of the case.

Some mailers apparently munge my address; you might have to use
bsmart@bsmart.tti.com -- or if that fails, fall back to
72027.3210@compuserve.com.  Ain't UNIX grand?
From: X005CB@tamvm1.tamu.edu (Chris Barnes)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: non-competitive conformation titles
Date: 28 Aug 92 20:44:04 GMT
Organization: Texas A&M University


 
Is there such a creature (for Labs specifically) as a non-competitive
conformation title?  ONE of the reasons that I really dislike the
show ring is the same reason I dislike Field Trials (and DO like
Hunting Tests):  a dog that is very nearly perfect can still get
nothing for it's efforts.
 
For example:
 
I have never seen a 200 yard mark when hunting.  200 yard marks are
routine in a Field Trial.  This is dumb; but why do the judges set
up the test like that?  Answer: because if they tested the dogs over
"normal" distances, the difference between the top few dogs would
be impercievable.  So a dog that would do perfect work on a "real"
course, frequently ends up getting 0 points.
 
It is my contention that this also happens in the show ring.  So is
there a "hunting test" equivlant for the show ring?
 
      ----------------------------------------------
Chris Barnes            |
x005cb@tamvm1.tamu.edu  |  Only 5 more days until the start of
(409) 846-3273 (home)   |           hunting season (in Texas)
(409) 845-8454 (work)   |
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: sla54@cas.org (Sandra Augustine)
Subject: Re: Fox Terriers
Organization: Chemical Abstracts Service, Columbus, Ohio
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 13:35:01 GMT

In article <ala1-270892154553@ura-arnie.uchicago.edu> ala1@midway.uchicago.edu (Arnie Aronoff) writes:
>
>Fox terrier owners: how do you handle their energy?  where do you play?  do
>you allow your dogs off-leash in the parks?  does your smoothie or
>wire-haired have any companion dogs at home?  Jack Russell Terrier owners:
>any thoughts too?

	I don't have any experience with fox terriers, but I do have a 5-month
old Norfolk terrier. Her energy is incredible! But in some ways, I'm lucky
because I have 5 big dogs for her to play with. Consequently, she gets a good
workout. Just recently, we've had her run along with one of our Goldens during
retrieving sessions. Our little Norfolk can ALMOST keep up.
	Perhaps you could consider a second dog for her to play with inside your
apartment? I recently watched a friend's two Norfolks chase each other around
their family room, and the dogs did seem to get a pretty good workout. At least
they were having a great time!

********************************************************************************
Sandra Augustine   | Home of: Remington of North Woods CDX, WC
NORWOOD KENNELS    |          CH Laurell's Golden Gate CDX, WC (Reg. with TDI)
ems: sla54@cas.org |          CH Delmar's Trivial Pursuit CD, WC (Reg. with TDI)
********************************************************************************
	       The above opinions are not those of my employer.
********************************************************************************

Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: mary@mkirk.NoSubdomain.NoDomain (Mary Kirk)
Subject: Standard Poodle Questions
Organization: Intergraph Corporation
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 17:57:54 GMT

My husband and I are in the process of looking for a dog.  We are very 
seriously considering getting a standard poodle, and we'd like 
to get some first hand information about them. 

We've talked to some breeders, and done a fair bit of research.  We
consider the opinions and views of poodle owners extremely
valuable, and welcome any/all information the net can offer.

Our family consists of two very active adults and two adult, neutered cats.
We have a large fenced yard.  

We'd like more information in the following areas;

   Where did you get your dog and how long have you had it?
   
   How much should we expect to pay for a good, pet-quality standard
   poodle?  (I hate to be gauche, but we've heard vastly different amounts)
   
   Are there any breed-specific problems that we should be aware of?
   (e.g. genetic weaknesses)   

   What are your pet's exercise requirements?
   
   Comments about trainablity, temperment, and aggresion toward other 
   animals/people?
   
   What type of clip (style) do you use for your dog, and how much time do
   you spend grooming and maintaining its coat each week? (This is our
   biggest area of uncertainty--we've heard that a poodle's coat maintenance
   can be prohibitively time-consuming)

We know that rescue societies exist for various breeds.  However,
we were told by a representative of the AKC in NY that none exists
for the standard poodle.  Can anyone offer a suggestion/info to the
contrary?

Also:  any information/recommendations on standard poodle breeders
especially in the North Alabama, North Georgia, or South Tennessee 
area would be great.

Thanks in advance!

-- 
Mary Kirk
mary@mkirk.b24a.ingr.com 

Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: jkjncs@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Subject: Re: feeding times (was: New Puppy - Need Advice!!)
Reply-To: jkjncs@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 14:55:20 GMT

In article <46960@shamash.cdc.com>, smp@aquarius1.Berkeley.EDU 
(Susan M Painter) writes:
>|> they are hungry, they get fat when they overeat.  If dogs are given access
>|> to unlimited food, they soon learn that the food will be there when they
>|> are hungry and they will eat when they are hungry.  Every instance I know
>|> of when a dog has gone nuts and severely overeaten has been when they have
>|> gotten into the stash they were usually kept out of.
>|> 
>|> 					Carlin
>
>It is not always that easy.  Perhaps in general, dogs can be free fed.  But it
>does not work for every dog.  We started with two cats that were always free
>fed so when we got our dog we tried the same thing until we realized that
>Toby was much rounder then a Bernese Mountain Dog should be.  I have never
>seen a dog so oriented towards food in my life.  It would absolutely be
>impossible to free feed him because the amount of food he feels he needs
>would make him a very fat dog.

Same point with my dog, a lab; way too many labs are overweight because they
are very food-oriented and will eat to excess (labs in general do *not*
make good self-feeders!). In fact, our cats are no longer self-feeders
because they also got too fat. I can think of a few more reasons why I
wouldn't want my dog to self-feed.
* I like to know how much my pet eats - why? Because if he gets too fat
  or too thin I'd like to know how much food he's getting now so I can
  adjust it accordingly (give less or more).
* related to the above point, one of the 1st signs of illness is loss of
  appetite - more difficult to detect in a self-feeder than in a dog on
  scheduled meals. If my lab ever doesn't eat his food, I will RUSH him
  to the vet since he must be *very ill* !!!
* Scheduled meals make for a scheduled digestive track - since I'm on a
  schedule of work, I like to know that my dogs dig. system is on a
  similar schedule and he can make it thru the day since he went in the
  morning. He gets fed 2x a day and he poops 2x a day - right on schedule,
  every day (even weekends). If he were to self-feed, he may have to go
  when I'm not home and would be uncomfortable. (and I also know which
  walks we'll need to take plastic baggies with us :+)

********************************************************
* jane jackson and murphy b. lab, Am/Can CD, CGC, TDI  *
* jkjncs@ritvax.isc.rit.edu                            *
*                                                      *
* standard disclaimer applies...                       *
********************************************************
From: mikeb@nowaksg.chem.nd.edu (Michael George Buening)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: Alpha role instead of alpha roll?
Date: 4 Sep 92 16:30:44 GMT
Organization: University of Notre Dame

In article <1992Sep3.232059.5125@megatek.com> megatek!fritzz@uunet.uu.net writes:
>In article <1992Sep3.215322.29105@macc.wisc.edu>
>heim@vms.macc.wisc.edu (JOHN HEIM	) writes:
>
>>  You're looking at this the wrong way.  It shouldn't matter what the 
>>  dog thinks - you *are* alpha (aren't you?).  It's just a matter of 
>>  showing the dog that.  If the dog thinks he's alpha it's probably 
>>  because you're not.
>
>I like this. I often see alpha rolls suggested as solutions to
>obedience problems. While they are a useful tool (like choke
>collars) they can be misused.
[Good info removed for space]
>Being dominant is no substitute for learning to read and
>understand your dog. Proper obedience (which should be a part
>of _any_ dog, even when  only used as a pet) is a two way street
>and requires you to be as responsible to your dog as your dog is
>responsive to you.
>-- 
>-- Bones heal - Chicks dig scars - Pain is temporary - Glory is forever
>-- fritzz@megatek.com :wq ZZ QQUIT exitqqq^C^Y^C^C^C^C^C^C^C
>--
	
	I couldn't agree more with Friedrich.  The alpha roll is a very
useful tool (has been for me), but as the people who taught me obedience
training for my dog pointed out over and over again, you must know what
your dog means by his/her actions.  You must ask yourself, is what he is 
doing now an act of dominance and if so what do I do to stop it and turn
the tables?  Simply alpha rolling your dog everytime he acts up and not 
addressing the whole issue will not only miss the point but will not teach
your dog that you are alpha.  You must *be* alhpa always, not sometimes,if
you want the dog to believe you.  The Monks of New Skete seemed to have a
good handle on dominance and I am sure there are several other books out
there (could someone please list me a few) that deal with the alpha problem.
It is not simply the dog directly challenging you physically on an occasional
basis but is a whole series of mental games.  Reading your dog is of the 
utmost importance.  Beamer (my cocker) and I are learning the subtle differences
in the way we communicate and I am beginning to understand most of his
body language and expressions when we are playing.  I can now begin to
include more aggressive games like tug-of-war, which he loves, without it
turning into a battle for dominance.  When he was younger, I could not
do that without him becoming highly aggressive and growling at me.  He would
even abandon the object being tugged and go for my hands, clothes, etc.
That is when we took obedience classes and when I started learning about
how to train, care for and be the best friend to my dog.  That includes
taking the dominant role away from him so that he does not have to worry
about ruling the world.  That is too much stress for one dog to have.  Any
way, alpha roles and alpha rolls are both difficult subjects to get a handle
on but with education and perserverance, one can begin to succeed.

				-Michael Buening
				internet:mikeb@nowaksg.chem.nd.edu
From: schlumpf@uimrl7.mrl.uiuc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Addresses for catalogs?
Date: 2 Sep 92 16:26:48 GMT
Article-I.D.: news.BtyLot.7o6
Reply-To: schlumpf@uimrl7.mrl.uiuc.edu ()
Organization: Materials Research Lab


Hi Everybody!

I'm looking for phone numbers and addresses of the whole sale
catalogs, like R.C. Steele and J&B Wholesalers. I know someone
had a list of these things at one point but I didn't need it at the 
time because I had a copy of the latest catalog! Since then we
moved and now with the new pup on the way, I find we are in
need of some stuff that is hard to find around here. Like a GSD
size wire crate, a braided leather leash, and other various items.
I'm also thinking of shipping some stuff down to Florida for the
pets there...  SO, I need a catalog! If anyone can help out, I'd
sure appreciate it!

Thanks bunches!

Kay Schlumpf & crew
schlumpf@uimrl7.mrl.uiuc.edu
From: geschwent@vax.muskingum.edu
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: 6 mo. old GSD vs. my 4 yo daughter - HELP
Date: 1 Sep 92 21:19:23 -0600
Organization: Muskingum College

I'm sure he's a great little pup, but he's turning into a monster fast! He
doesn't think he's a kid--he thinks he's a higher dog than your little
girl, and he may unwittingly hurt her later on. As someone else said, you
have to teach them both to respect each other.

I think you and he need some training fast. As he accepts your orders in
other ways, among other dogs, he'll listen more as you make it *perfectly*
clear that he's not to touch your daughter in any threatening way. You do
that by stern voices, pointing, alpha-rolls, things he'll learn to respect
in an obedience class. Do it NOW, while he's comparatively little--you
won't be able to do it when he gets larger. 

When our GSD, Maxie, came into our house, the first thing she did was make
it clear to the Golden and our cat that *she* was in charge. Tristie was
4x her size, but she pushed him away from his food, and chased the cat from
the water dish. Once. We immediately spoke to her in low, angry voices, and
told her, "No." When she tried it again, she watched us from the corner of 
her eye, and stopped as soon as we said, "No." She never tried again. She
also had to learn that stealing others' toys was unacceptable, as was 
forcing children to give her the cookies they were eating. (Aw, Mom! They
can't stop me! Why can't I take their cookies?)

We'd had large dogs before, but were a little surprised at her aggressiveness.
Since we'd had dogs in obedience class before, we had an idea of how to handle
her. Get some help fast. Maxie had been in obed. class for 2 months by the time
she was the age of yours, and she listens to everything we say. She is very
nearly perfect. As you noted,
GSDs are very smart, and they will do anything to keep your affection, once
you make it clear to them what the standards of behavior are. Good luck!
-- 
P.K.
Geschwent@vax.muskingum.edu
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: michaelc@oz.plymouth.edu (Mike Clark)
Subject: Puppy ID collars
Reply-To: michaelc@oz.plymouth.edu (Mike Clark)
Organization: Plymouth State College - Plymouth, N.H.
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 92 02:02:50 GMT

We are expecting a litter of little germans here on September 16th (YAY)
and I remember back about 10 years ago when I had my last litter, I
had trouble keeping track of who's puppy was who's etc...I have heard
about some little ID collars you can buy, they come in different
colors or something so you can mark the pups and keep track of
them...However, I have not been able to locate any through my catalogs
or any pet stores...Anyone have any ideas???

Thanks!
Mike
-- 
Sergeant Michael J. Clark|  "By you reading this, I have entered your mind
P.S.C. Campus Police     |   and now I control all of your thoughts, there
Plymouth, NH 03264       |   is nothing you can do to stop this."
(603) 535-2668           | So..You got that going for you, which is nice.
From: mjohnson@stake.DaytonOH.NCR.COM (Marget Johnson)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: Puppy ID collars
Date: 28 Aug 92 14:14:18 GMT
Reply-To: mjohnson@stake.DaytonOH.NCR.COM (Marget Johnson)
Organization: Stakeholder Relations, NCR Corp in Dayton,OH

In article <1992Aug27.020250.11373@oz.plymouth.edu> michaelc@oz.plymouth.edu
(Mike Clark) writes:
>We are expecting a litter of little germans here on September 16th (YAY)
>and I remember back about 10 years ago when I had my last litter, I
>had trouble keeping track of who's puppy was who's etc...
>...Anyone have any ideas???
>

A litter of newborn Newfoundlands looks more like a herd of identical black
hampsters! To assure proper identification of each puppy, as each is whelped,
after drying off the pup and tieing off the umbilical cord (if mom hasn't
chewed it off), I tie a length of colored yarn around the pup's neck. Each pup
is then weighed on the baby scale, and identified on the whelping chart by
the color of the yarn. From then on, the pup is known as "Yellow Girl" or
"Blue Boy" or "Red Girl", etc. I keep about 8 balls of different colored yarn.
For a larger litter, twist two yarn strands together to make a unique color
(e.g. Yellow/Red Girl). Check the neck yarn frequently (every two days while
they are neonates), replacing as the pup grows or the yarn gets dirty. After
about three weeks of age, I change the yarn, weigh the pup and clip the
toenails once a week. By 7-8 weeks, you can probably identify each pup without
the yarn collar. If not, you can buy adjustable nylon buckle collars in
the same colors as the yarn, to maintain the pup's identification.

Good luck with your new babies!
***********************************************************
Marget Johnson, Windwagon Newfoundlands

-- 

Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: GC.SUL@forsythe.stanford.edu (Sullivan)
Subject: info wanted on Rhodesian Ridgebacks-please do not Email
Organization: Stanford University, California, USA
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 23:14:39 GMT

Would live to hear from any Rhodesian Ridgeback owners about their
dogs. (Please post to Bboard, and not E-mail as it is my husbands
account)

I am considering one, though don't know that much about them. I have
always liked the ones I have run into

My requirements are a larger, short-haired dog (often over 100
degrees here in the summer), that will provide the appearence of
protection.  I also need a dog that is good with small children
I hope to take it jogging with me, and hopefully out riding with the
horse.

Our current dog (husky-wolf cross), has the sweetest disposition
with the kids.  She is approaching 13 and can no longer go out with
me on the horse.  Even running 2 miles down the road seems to be her
limit.  Though she is alert and bouncy, I just keep thinking she
can't last too much longer-thats why I am starting to think of
another dog.  I have had an Elkhound and love them, but would not
subject such a long-haired dog to this environment.

So, any info posted to the bboard would be appreciated

Karen
From: lorelei@rodan.UU.NET (Lorelei Horner)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: Muzzle Training?
Date: 31 Aug 1992 09:46:36 -0400
Organization: UUNET Technologies Inc, Falls Church, VA
NNTP-Posting-Host: rodan.uu.net

|>	For really bad cases of the eats, you can take the last
|>thing they ate, place it in their mouth, and tape it in with duct
|>tape.  A couple wraps should do it.  They will spend all their time
|>removing the tape until its gone, and will never eat that again.  After
|>a couple-three episodes, they won't eat anything.  We have three cattle
|>dogs, one of them liked shoes in a previous life and was "curred" this
|>way.
|>					-Shaw
|>
|
|How cruel!  I would think that crate training might just be the best
|alternative for everyone...including the dog.  A crate can be a very 
|comforting place for dogs left home alone, plus there is the bonus that he/she
|won't be eating everything in sight!  Please don't duct-tape your dogs muzzle!
|(Would you tape your two-year-old child's mouth shut for putting random objects in his mouth?)
|
|--Karen

I agree, this is very cruel. I have a five month Siberian Husky
that likes to chew things. Recently, she has found a liking for the
taste of carpet. To PREVENT her from chewing the carpet, we taped
it to the floor with duct tape. She removed the tape from the 
floor and when I returned home, I found her covered in it.

I was as careful as possible removing it from her fur, but I
*KNOW* it hurt her.

I would NEVER recommend taping a dog's mouth shut with this VERY
sticky stuff...it's just down right CRUEL!!

Lorelei Horner                  UUNET Lead Operator
lorelei@uunet.uu.net		 uunet!lorelei