HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: drabik@eecom.gatech.edu (Timothy J. Drabik)
Subject: Cosworth BDG wanted
Organization: School of Electrical Engineering, Georgia Institute of Technology
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1992 15:31:13 GMT

I'm designing a mid-engined road car around the Ford "Kent" block
and would like to use an engine closely resembling the Cosworth BDG,
a 2-liter aluminum block version of the BDA.  Can anyone suggest a
source for this block?  Did some of the European Escorts come with this
Cosworth setup?  I might consider an actual BDG if I could get one
for a lot less than the new cost.  I'd like to derate it to street trim
and probably won't run it over 8,000 RPM, so I don't need all attributes
of the full-blown BDG (like a 10,000 RPM redline).

Also, I'm seeking a transaxle that has mountings and pick-up points 
compatible with formula-car-type configurations.  Hewland users will
know what I mean.  Is there anything besides Hewlands out there that
has an appropriately designed case?

I'd also be interested in discussing this project.  I'm trying to
build a road car in the style of '60s sports racers.  A slightly
taller version (~ 40") of a Lotus 23 (more ground clearance) would
characterize it pretty well.  I'm fairly disgusted with what the
manufacturers try to sell as "sports cars" these days.

Responses from our British Brethren especially encouraged!

		Regards,
		Tim

		drabik@solaris.gatech.edu
-- 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond)
Subject: Re: Electromotive Inc.: STAY AWAY
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 92 05:02:34 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
Keywords: Engine management

rodder@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Jon D. Rodder) writes:

>I still don't see why they EPA would bar them from selling it as a
>non-street use or pre-emissions item.  By your reasoning, I shouldn't
>be able to buy an aftermarket distributor with a vacuum advance.

If the part has a use on pre-emission vehicles, then the fine print
disclaimer will probably do it.  But it still depends on how the part
is marketed.  It also depends on what one does to attract the attention
of the EPA.  Finally, note how many vendors are getting EOs on 
distributors.

>In retrospect I probably should have.  I tried to control to all
>conditions during on engine testing and vary only the crank trigger
>signal.  I made a big mistake in assuming that the trigger supplied
>by electromotive would work when installed to their specs, and believing
>them  when they reassured me that it would.  

Hard-won experience, huh?  I recognized the trigger the first time I saw it
as one commonly used with industrial DC motor controllers and knew
how sensitive it was.  

>Maybe I am out of line.  But I spent $1100 for a product that did not
>work, the manufacturer gave no useful assistance in getting it to work,
>and they wouldn't take the product back, and feel that I owe them
>something in return.

I can understand that feeling.  I just don't think it is 100% fair to
brand the whole product line because of one bad experience.  *WOW*,
$1100 for just the ignition?  They nicked you full retail at least.
*WOW*

John
-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC               |Interested in high performance mobility?  
Performance Engineering Magazine(TM) | Interested in high tech and computers? 
Marietta, Ga                         | Send ur snail-mail address to 
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Need Usenet public Access in Atlanta?  Write Me for info on Dixie.com.
From: jimv@hienergy.Eng.Sun.COM (Jim Vienneau  - Sun Microsystems)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Cummins
Date: 18 Dec 92 21:39:18 GMT
Organization: Sun
NNTP-Posting-Host: hienergy.east.sun.com

In article <BzH0zJ.2rL@cup.hp.com> dhepner@cup.hp.com (Dan Hepner) writes:

>-mileage twice that of a gas engine with similar specs (the truck 454)
>-700+ miles of range
>-great low end torque
>-well behaved at high altitide
>
>Dan Hepner

Too bad it's all in a Dodge pickup though. I'd lay odds that the Ford will
still be around long after that Chrysler "MBA designed" body squeeks, rattles, and
rusts itself to death (not to mention the cheezy interior). No doubt about it,
the Cummins is one hell of an engine, but it's only one part of the overall
package.


--
Jim Vienneau, Sun Microsystems Inc - Chelmsford, MA
Email: jvienneau@east.sun.com   Amateur Radio: WB1B
Good old Ma Bell (well old anyway): (508)442-0372
From: lee@hsh.com (Lee Havemann)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Defogger and A/C compressor question
Date: 15 Dec 92 21:12:40 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: HSH Associates

In article <FRAZER.92Dec14141757@ired460a.erim.org>, frazer@ired460a.erim.org (Matt Frazer) writes:
> Hi,
>   I recently inherited a 1986 Plymouth Horizon. It only has 25K actual
> miles - a real life case of the little old lady who only drove it to 
> church on Sundays. It's in pretty good condition, but lack of use seems
> to have taken its toll too. One thing I have noticed is that when I turn
> on the defogger, there is a clicking sound. This car has A/C, and I found
> that the noise is from the compressor clutch engaging, then immediately
> disengaging. This sure doesn't seem right. The constant cycling on and off
> has got to be tough on the compressor, and it sure doesn't sound good on 
> that little engine either.
>   Could it possibly be the battery? I'm going to replace the all-but-dead
> battery next week. I'm thinking that if the compressor is controlled by a
> relay, when the engine rpms drop due to the compressor load, the battery
> voltage is not high enough to keep the relay engaged... Just a shot in
> the dark. Any other explanations would be appreciated.

The car probably needs a recharge - most (all?) newer cars have a pressure
sensing switch on the AC which cuts power to the compressor clutch if the
system is undercharged.

> 
>   Another simpler question I have regards engine run-on. As I said, this
> car was driven by a little old lady. It was probably never driven over
> 35MPH. Would this be the most likely cause of the terrible case of engine
> run-on it has? What's the best remedy for this?

Probably has a bad case of carbon build up - the car was never revved up past 
3000 rpm, and the enging gets full of crap. Fill it up with some good gas, 
take it out on the highway, and romp on it for a while.

> 
>   Thanks in advance for any help.
>     Matt Frazer
>     frazer@erim.org

-- 

 Lee Havemann, Sys_op       HSH Associates          (201) 838-3330 
 Internet: lee@hsh.com    Compuserve: 70410,3507    AOL: HSH Assoc
 "Any opinions expressed are not necessarily those of anyone else, 
  including myself."                     
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ravalent@mothra.syr.EDU (Bob Valentine)
Subject: Re: tranny problems
Organization: Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 92 20:38:52 EST

In article <101777@netnews.upenn.edu> george@mech.seas.upenn.edu writes:
>
>:   >>>shift properly (it is in third by 20 mph) and it has no passing gear. 
>
>
>:Check the detent/kickdown cable. Only cable from trans to the throttle
>
>gm stopped using cables in ~1974 ( anyone know why?, i like'd 'em )
>This car will have a vacuum operated kick down, but i dont see
>why a problem with that would cause early upshifting.
>--
>  /   george jefferson
>\/ *  george@mech.seas.upenn.edu

  Ah, no.  I'm not sure just what GM tranny you are talking about, but
here's my knowledge of what they use:

    Powerglide - Kickdown rod, to indicate full throttle downshift,
                 uses vaccum to determine engine load/line pressure.
    TH-350     - Kickdown cable, to indicate full throttle downshift.
                 vaccume for engine load/line pressure.
    TH-400     - Electric solenoid to make full throttle downshift.
                 vaccum same as for TH-350
    Metric Series (TH-200,250,300,700-4R, and 200-R4)
               - Cable tells trans engine load/line pressure and 
                 full throttle.
    FWD Series - Uses cable for everything, just like the Metric
                 series.  Some of the old (<79) might use vaccum.
                 Never seen one that old, tho.
    FWD E-body (Rivvy, Eldo, ect)  
               - There were versions of the TH-350,400,and Metric
                 adapted to this, and they usually use the same 
                 as their ancestors.

  Mabye some of the newest stuff is computer contolled (I'm NOT
talking just about lockup), but I've never seen a GM trans that 
did not have EITHER a cable/rod or a vaccum modulator.   The only
one like this is a TH-400, and I sure wouldn't call that new...

________________________________________________________________________
\ The name:            -->   Bob Valentine  <--                        /
/ The address:      --> ravalent@mailbox.syr.edu <--                   \ 
\                                                                      /
/ The ride: --> 71 Olds Cutlass Convertible: 350/T400/Posi (soon!) <-- \
\______________________________________________________________________/    
    



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: A.J.Robinson@lut.ac.uk
Subject: Re: Ford (A4LD ?) auto trans problems
Reply-To: A.J.Robinson@lut.ac.uk (Alan Robinson)
Organization: Loughborough University, UK.
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 92 11:07:46 GMT

In article <l5c2c7p@rpi.edu> maessm@rpi.edu writes:
>In article <1992Dec9.114144.13269@lut.ac.uk>, A.J.Robinson@lut.ac.uk (Alan Robinson) writes:
>
>|> Whilst behaving normally throughout the rest of the range, anything
>|> causing a 3-2 shift (throttle pressure, kickdown, manual change) in
>|> the approximate speed range 41-46 mph results in severe flare-up 
>|> (engine on rev limit, no forward drive) for about .25 to 1.25 seconds
>|> after which things return to normal or I chicken out and throttle off.
>|> Rpm in 2nd at this speed is about 3000 rpm, and max kickdown speed
>|> into 2nd is about 70 mph, so its not unfair to ask for 2nd gear.
>
>Sounds like you've got a slipping clutch in that transmission.  Check the fluid in the transmission oil pan.  If it looks burned, smells burned, or has black particles floating around in it, you've found your problem.
>------
>Mat Maessen   N2NJZ		maessm@rpi.edu
>204 Bray 
>Commons Mail Room, RPI
>Troy, NY 12180-3590
>(c) 1992 Fake-sig Co. (Inc.)


This is the puzzling thing: I've checked it several times and its clear
as a bell !

Alan.
From: cn832@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (J. Grant Montgomery)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Do SPOILERS Really Work??? no.
Date: 13 Dec 1992 00:11:58 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: cn832@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (J. Grant Montgomery)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) says:

>
>-> At US-legal automobile velocities you'd need a hell of a wing to make
>-> any difference whatsoever.  A few automobiles are sold with effective
>-> spoilers at super-legal velocities, eg Porshe 911.  Note the size of
>-> the Porshe spoiler.
>
> A popular, but erroneous, belief.
>
> The effectiveness of a wing or spoiler is quite dependent on the shape
>of the body.  Some cars, you could put a picnic table on and it wouldn't
>make a difference.  Others, just a small lip will make a noticeable
>change - and it can be effective as low as 35mph.
>
> For example, the '70-'73 Capris are very sensitive to crosswinds.  Get
>some random gusts out there and you're liable to be pulled over as a
>suspected DWI.  A mere three inch rear spoiler will stabilize the car
>quite well.  Front spoilers appear to do nothing for that particular
>car.
>
> In another test, we used a '63 Chevy II, pretty close to a shoebox
>shape.  No rear wing or spoiler we tested did anything we could notice,
>but a front air dam made a big difference in directional stability at
>60mph, and on trips we observed a consistent 2 to 2.5 mpg increase over
>the non-dammed car.
>                                                                                                         
My question is, I have an '85 Toyota Celica Supra and it has a factory
spoiler on the liftgate.  It does extend across the entire width of the
car, and it is maybe 3-5" tall.  I drive along I-80 in the valley in CA
and I get knocked around by winds every once and awhile.  Would I 
experience more problems with the wind if I didn't have the spoiler?
I mean is mine doing any good at all or does it just look neat?

Grant 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: "mike knox" <mike.knox@canrem.com>
Subject: what does 4x4 mean?
Reply-To: "mike knox" <mike.knox@canrem.com>
Organization: Canada Remote Systems
Distribution: rec
Date: 17 Dec 92 23:10:45 EST

Hi:
 
I hope this is not a stupid question, but I have been wondering exactly
where the term 4x4 (four by four) came from.
 
I know that it is used to refer to 4WD vehicles in general as opposed
to AWD vehicles; my Jimmy has 4x4 labeled on the side of it.
 
Since I've also seen reference to 4x2 (usually denoting something like
a 2WD pick up truck), I'm assuming that the second digit refers to "two"
or "four" wheel drive.
 
What does the first "four" stand for in 4x4???
 
Thanks.
 
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Mike Knox                  |     Fido: 1:229/15
    Brampton, Ontario          | Internet: mike.knox@canrem.com
    CANADA                     | RelayNet: ->CRS  (Public Key: 22319)
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

 * DeLuxe2/386 1.25 #4782 * 
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
From: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: 400 miles and dead alread
Date: 17 Dec 92 19:17:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Ye Olde Bailey BBS - Houston, TX - 713-520-1569
Reply-To: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 

   >>>Date: 15 Dec 1992 14:31:44 GMT

RAW>>>        I have a slight problem, actually it isn't a problem, but
   >>>i recently had my 351M in my '78 Bronco rebuilt, it ran me 2400 bucks
   >>>with new clutch, pressure plate and everything else, it was bored over
   >>>has all new pistons, cam, bearings, valves guides, springs, crank, a new
   >>>head, every pump, all valves, the only left original is big pieces of
   >>>metal that have been machined.  Anyways, i drove it for 400 miles, follow
   >>>proper break in procedure, and when i hit about 410 miles, i started hear
   >>>a tap, that increased with engine speed, it was slower than crank speed,
   >>>i'm guessing valve train.  The tapping started getting louder and then al
   >>>of a sudden, the tapping stopped and it felt like i was riding on 6 cylin
   >>>or less, also there was a nasty vibration that felt like the vibration
   >>>damper was taken off, but it is still were it should be.  It is under
   >>>warranty, so it will be fixed, but i'm just curious to find out what is
   >>>wrong, before i am told, any ideas?
Sounds like broken valve spring or keeper to me...
                                                Don


 * SLMR 2.1a * I put spot remover on my dog....Spots gone!
                          
----
Ye Olde Bailey BBS
Houston,Texas
Node 1: 1 713 520 1569
yob.sccsi.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: colombo@bronco.fnal.gov
Subject: Re: Oil pressure question?
Organization: Fermilab Computing Division
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 21:47:01 GMT

In article <1992Dec15.203102.24544@ncar.ucar.edu>, cbh@windsurf.scd.ucar.edu (Cris Hannu) writes:
> I've got a question about the relationship of oil pressure to volume.
> I've got an '84 Bronco II w/ 2.8L.  I had the engine rebuilt (it has now
> got about 10,000 miles on it), it was bored out and I had a new cam put in.
> Anyway, the oil pressure is higher now (than originally) and it seems to
> *increase* when the oil starts getting low.  Is this normal, or do I have a
> flaky sending unit?  I would've thought it would *decrease*.
> 
> -- Cris

Oil pressure is not related to the volume, unless you run out.  :-)

-- 
 ___________________________________________________________________________
 *****  *   *  From the e-net desk of: Rick Colombo CD/DCD/DSG    *    *
 *      **  *  Fermi Nat'l Acc'l Lab   708-840-8225 Fermilab     * *   *
 ***    * * *  P.O. Box 500   MS 369   Feynman Computer Center  *****  *
 *      *  **  Batavia, Ill. USA 60510 Colombo@fnal.fnal.gov    *   *  *****
 *    Of course I speak for: Fermilab, Congress and the President... NOT!!!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: spl3592@bcstec.ca.boeing.com (Scott LaRoche)
Subject: Re: Help! Rust on Chrome
Organization: Boeing
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 17:48:02 GMT


> Greetings!
> I have a rust spot on a chrome bumper as a result of being bumped from
> the rear.  Does anyone have any advice on how to remove the rust from
> my EXPENSIVE chrome bumper?

Try using fine steel wool, then maybe some wax to prevent it from rusting
again.

Scott LaRoche
Boeing Computer Services
root@enif.ca.boeing.com

-----\------------------  _____ -------------------/--------
     /               ____|     |_____              \  
     \   Chevy      /____  327  ____/    Thunder   / 
______*_________________ |_____| _________________*_________     

-- 
-----\------------------  _____ -------------------/--------
     /               ____|     |_____              \  
     \   Chevy      /____  327  ____/    Thunder   / 
______*_________________ |_____| _________________*_________     
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: Cliff_Lum@mindlink.bc.ca (Cliff Lum)
Subject: Re: Toyota Corolla problem.
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 08:24:53 GMT

> Daniel Robert Mittelst writes:
>
> Msg-ID: <1gb1i3INNhru@uwm.edu>
> Posted: 11 Dec 1992 21:34:59 GMT
>
> Org.  : Computing Services Division, University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
>
> Ok.. I've got an '81 Corolla 1.8 liter 5 speed. It's a nifty little car,
> albeit a bit  slow. Anyways.. A  few days ago, my car wouldn't start in
> the  morning. I'm in Wisconsin, it's cold, so I figure a jump start or
> a push start would work. We tried everything from a  plug in AC battery
> charger,  to push starting with 3 people, to push starting with a 367
> Chevelle. Nada. So, I ponder..  I put in a new battery, and it starts right
> up. Yay. The next  day, however, I'm  driving  at a nice 45 mph, and the
> engine dies. Ka-put. Couldn't  jumpstart,  pushstart, etc,etc. If I try
> to  start it  myself, it does nothing. Doesn't crank or anything,  and  the
> annoying little buzzing  noise I get when I have  the key in and the key
> in  the ON position isn't   there,   nor does the radio work  (the lights
> do,  however). Is this an alternator problem, or a distributor, or? Any
> ideas?
>
> --
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> dti@csd4.csd.uwm.edu      - Tune in, Turn on, Drop out - Do it today ------
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>

Sounds like an alternator problem, since you put in a new battery and it was
fully charged it would run everthing on its reserve capacity. You said its
cold so you had the heater fan on, radio, lights etc. All these drain the
battery so your driving along and then you battery is slowly dieing out until
the current supply is so low it will not supply juice to the ignition system
so your engine dies.

BTW does your car start well on cold mornings mine just stalls on cold
mornings and I have checked wires, plugs, choke, choke breaker and charging
system but it always stalls on cold mornings. Mine is a 1982 SR5 coupe
corolla.
Has 188000 km.

Hope that helps
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Do SPOILERS Really Work??? no.
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 15 Dec 92 13:21:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> and I get knocked around by winds every once and awhile.  Would I
-> experience more problems with the wind if I didn't have the spoiler?
-> I mean is mine doing any good at all or does it just look neat?

 How about the empirical approach?  Take it off and find out!
                                                                    
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rzottola@umassmed.UMMED.EDU (Ralph Zottola)
Subject: Re: Help with engine diagnosis
Organization: Univ. Mass. Med. Ctr., Worcester, MA
Distribution: usa
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1992 22:02:49 GMT


A few days ago, I posted the following request for help:


> I need help diagnosing an engine problem.  I have a 1987 Chrysler
> LeBaron with a 2.2L turbo engine.  When the engine is hot, it hesitates
> badly with normal acceleration.  It is fine cold, at idle hot or cold,
> with heavy acceleration, or at speeds above 55mph.  It seems as if it
> cuts out to shift when rpm is below 2500.  It does this in neutral as
> well if I race the engine.  I had the fuel pump and filter replaced one
> month ago.  The timing was also done at that time.
> 
> Any suggestions as to where I should begin to look?
> --ralph


Thanks to everyone who responded.  In summary, one can read the computer
error codes in this car by counting the flashes of the power loss light
after turning the ignition key on-off-on-off-on.  This resulted in
	error 17--engine running too cool
	error 54--distributor sync pickup circuit
I changed the Hall Effect Pick-Up in the distributor and everything
seems to be working fine again.  Thanks again for the advice.
-ralph

-- 
Ralph J. Zottola			Graduate Student
UMMC/Prog. Mol. Med.			Voice: (508)856-6881
373 Plantation St.			Fax:   (508)856-4289
Worcester, MA 01605			Internet: rzottola@umassmed.ummed.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bowmanj@csn.org (Jerry Bowman)
Subject: Re: tranny problems
Organization: University of Colorado Boulder, OCS
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 18:13:41 GMT

In article <101777@netnews.upenn.edu> george@mech.seas.upenn.edu writes:
>
>:   >>>shift properly (it is in third by 20 mph) and it has no passing gear. 
>
>
>:Check the detent/kickdown cable. Only cable from trans to the throttle
>
>gm stopped using cables in ~1974 ( anyone know why?, i like'd 'em )
>This car will have a vacuum operated kick down, but i dont see
>why a problem with that would cause early upshifting.
>--
>  /   george jefferson
>\/ *  george@mech.seas.upenn.edu

AI,ve seen a bad governor cause this.


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz)
Subject: Re: HP-Torque of chevy V-6?
Organization: Naval Ocean Systems Center, San Diego
Distribution: all
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1992 16:09:00 GMT

In article <1g97t0INNapp@crcnis1.unl.edu> jskean@unlinfo.unl.edu (jonathan skean) writes:
>samblane@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Sean Samblanet) writes:
>(does a 4.3L V6 Chevy S-10 make a good tow vehicle for a
>4500 pound trailer?)

>I'd say look at the other trucks in the pits pulling the same kind
>of race cars.  Even here on the fairly level Great Plains you
>don't see any S-10s.  Anyway, a 5.7L V-8 is going to crawl up hills
>with that kind of weight.  You really need a big block.  No doubt
>the 4.3 will do if you have lots of patience, but then what
>are you doing with a race car in the first place?  Buy a Tercel
>to commute in and a 7.6L to haul with or accept a compromise that
>gets lousy gas mileage and still won't pull.

Naw, bad advice as far as what the tow-vehicle should be...  If you're gonna
recommend someone get a commuter-car *and* a purposeful tow-vehicle, then you
should at least know what to recommend.  For the tow vehicle, anyone buying
other than a Cummins-powered Dodge D/W (depends upon whether 4wd is needed...)
250/350 is making a huge mistake.  359cid of Cummins produces 400lb-ft of
torque at 1700rpm, pulls 11,400lbs of trailer *and* delivers 20mpg...  There
*AIN'T* a gas-pig made that'll match that capability, especially not a
pig-block.  Plus, since it's turbocharged, the Cummins doesn't 'wheeze' at
altitude like the pig-blocks, it just lives up to its nickname of 'Come-Along'.


Walt K.


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech