HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: ldh@svl.cdc.com (Lawrence D. Hare)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Installing 6 gear freewheel on 5 gear hub.
Date: 11 Sep 92 18:52:02 GMT
Organization: Control Data Systems
X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1.1d9
X-XXMessage-ID: <A6D637B1CB010456@ethelred.svl.cdc.com>
X-XXDate: Fri, 11 Sep 92 11:46:57 GMT

I saw some info on this somewhere, but in this day of the information
age, 
I guess I am ageing faster than the information - can't keep track of all
of
it.

Anyway, like many people I am returning to biking after an absence of many
years, daughter being of an age, and all that.. I have a 1976 Mondia
Special
which I love. It has Campagnolo stuff but I installed a Shimano freewheel
as I
do some pretty steep hill riding as well as commuting on appropriate
days, a 
round trip of 24 miles or so, nice ride.

I designed a set of gears using D. A. Belsley/John Forrest's Hypercard
stack
and found that gears were hard to come by, so I changed to Shimano and
have
a 14-34 fw and 52,46 cw. The Campagnolo Rally derailleur snaps the gears
like they were indexed - very happy.

But it's a 10 speed. Not that I am unhappy. But I read that there is a 6
gear
freewheel available, one that fits into a 5 gear hub space. One that
leaves
enough space between the inner sprocket and the wheel? (about 4
millimeters
I need I think).

Does anyone have any information on this and perhaps some experience to
go with it? Are there a good selection of gears available? (Shimano does
not make a 27 tooth for example). Is it hard to come by and, if so, any 
addresses?

Thanks
--
Lawrence D. Hare       ldh@svl.cdc.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: bt@irfu.se (Bo Thide')
Subject: Re: Removing a frozen stem
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 13:32:56 GMT
Organization: Swedish Institute of Space Physics, Uppsala, Sweden

In article <1992Sep9.142738.27204@nntpd.lkg.dec.com> whalen@starch.enet.dec.com (Rich Whalen) writes:
>
>In article <ADRIAN.92Sep9110131@percy.robots.ox.ac.uk>, adrian@robots.ox.ac.uk
>(Adrian Cox) writes:
>    :
>    :
>|>.  So far I've
>|>thought of two possible approaches, and I'd like some comments or new
>|>ideas for freeing it.  It's a fairly basic steel frame, but I'm still
>|>nervous about both of these options.
>|>
>|>1> Use a blowtorch to heat up and expand the tubes, freeing the rust.
>|>2> Hit it harder with a larger hammer.
>|>
>|>- Adrian
>|>
>
>I haven't tried this, but a co-worker says that he uses mecurichrome and
>iodine to loosen rusted parts when he is working on his car.  You might
>give it a try before getting out the heavy equipment.
>
>------------------------------------------------------
>Rich Whalen
>
>You don't know where these bits have been!

I have used Coca Cola (I'm serious) to loosen rusted parts!  Try it,
you will be surprised to see how efficient it is.  It may make you
think twice before you drink Coke nest time...

Bo
-- 
   ^   Bo Thide'--------------------------------------------------------------
  |I|        Swedish Institute of Space Physics, S-755 91 Uppsala, Sweden
  |R|      Phone: (+46) 18-303671.  Fax: (+46) 18-403100.  IP: 130.238.30.23
 /|F|\          INTERNET: bt@irfu.se      UUCP: ...!mcvax!sunic!irfu!bt  
 ~~U~~ ----------------------------------------------------------------sm5dfw-
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: bwb@unlinfo.unl.edu (bruce brodersen)
Subject: Dust cover for pedal
Keywords: Dust cover pedal
Organization: University of Nebraska - Lincoln
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 19:31:21 GMT

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: davis@lugg.utah.edu (Darrell R. Davis)
Subject: Re: Scott Drop-In Bar Creak-Creak
Organization: College of Science, University of Utah
Date: 14 Sep 92 13:23:57


on Mon, 14 Sep 1992 17:41:06 GMT,
tye@elvis.mit.edu (Tye Brady) said:
>> My 92 scott Drop-In bars give an annoying click whenever a fair amount  
>> pressure is put on either side of the bar, say like in an out of the  
>> saddle climb or while sprinting.

>> These bars came with two shims that are put between the bar and stem  
>> (Mavic in my case).  I tried to remedy this by torqueing down the bar  
>> bolt, and it still does not help.  It actually gets quieter when I loosen  
>> bolt, but then the handlebars tend move whenever I go in the drop  
>> positition.  I noticed also that the new Liteflite line from scott does  
>> not involve any shims. Does this remedy the problem?  Is there another  
>> way?


Some of the Drop-Ins have been recalled.  I don't know if your
clicking is related to the reasons for recall, but you might want to
check with Scott.  I know that the newer LF's are OK.


--------------------------------------------------------------
 
 Darrell R. Davis 
 Medicinal Chemistry 
 University of Utah 
  
--------------------------------------------------------------
From: camilo@hadrosaur.cis.ohio-state.edu (The Gecko)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Differences in Shimano HG?? series
Summary: Question on Shimano Freewheel Cassettes
Keywords: Shimano HG 70, HG 90
Date: 15 Sep 92 18:26:15 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: The Ohio State University Dept. of Computer and Info. Science


So what's the difference between HG-70 and HG-90 Freewheel Cassettes?
I'm going to buy a 7-spd 13-21 Cassette and I'd like to know what I get
for a few extra dollars if I buy an HG-90 cassette?  Is this the top of 
the line in freewheel cogs?        

Thanks to all.

- Camilo
From: efrank@charm.hep.upenn.edu (Ed Frank)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Spoke breakage
Date: 6 Sep 92 13:16:59 GMT
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Pennsylvania

In article <1992Sep4.190814.21614@mercury.unt.edu>, 
jackson@ponder.csci.unt.edu (Bruce Jackson) writes:

> In article <1992Sep4.121450.1@utxvms.cc.utexas.edu> 
> ccfa001@utxvms.cc.utexas.edu writes:
> 
> >Over the last two months, I've had two spokes break at the angled area where
> >the spoke connects to the hub flange.  The bike is about 1.5 years old and
> >has been used primarily for commuting (a DB Apex). 
> 
> It sounds like it is time for a rebuild.  The spokes that come on most
> bikes are only medium quality at best.  Rebuild the wheel with all
> new high quality double butted spokes.
>

	The wheels on my bike were built incorrectly by the manufacturer
and exhibited symptoms identical to yours:  persistent spoke breakage after
about 3000 miles.  In my case you could see that the spokes were not supported
by the hub flange-the spoke came through the hole in the flange, made its bend,
and headed for the rim without laying on the flange.  I had the wheel rebuilt
with the same rims.  

	I post this so that others will know something important to check before
buying a bike or wheel:  make sure the spokes are seated well on the
flange.  Other experience has taught me that I will unmount, inspect, and remount
the tires on a new bike before riding it.  This includes looking under the rim
strip when feasible.

Ed Frank
efrank@upenn5.hep.upenn.edu
Xref: sparky rec.bicycles.tech:304 rec.bicycles.marketplace:141
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech,rec.bicycles.marketplace
Subject: Re: Lubricants
From: news@massey.ac.nz (USENET News System)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 92 23:54:27 GMT
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech
Organization: SMIS, Massey University

jsweeney@geppetto.encore.com (Joe Sweeney) wrote:
 
> I used Tri-Flow for about two months, and here in Florida, it's a 
> dirt grabber.

The point I was making about Tri-Flow was that the tube with the squeeze
bottle allowed the correct, minimal amount of lube to be applied.  I also
wipe off any excess after I have worked all the moving parts.  Were you
using the squeeze bottle or the spray?  I'd expect the spray to be messy
and leave plenty of residue to attract dirt, especially if the excess
wasn't wiped off.

--------------------------------------------------------
Phil Etheridge               P.Etheridge@massey.ac.nz
Macintosh Consultant         Phone: +64+6-356-9099 x8689
SMIS, Massey University      Fax:   +64+6-350-5611
Palmerston North, NZ         40*23'S 175*37'E,    GMT+12
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: piltch@ariel.lerc.nasa.gov (Nancy Piltch)
Subject: Re: Chain Cleaners
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
Date: 14 Sep 1992 11:52 EST  

[attributions lost, sorry]

>> Have people observed that hang-on cleaners do a significantly better
>> job than a toothbrush?

>Vetta cleaner.  Otherwise however, the hang-on cleaners do a better job
>than a toothbrush for me, but that's probably because I'm too
>lazy/impatient to do the job thoroughly with a toothbrush.

Something I've found that works better for me than a toothbrush is a wire
brush, readily available at any hardware store. (Check the paint supplies
section.) It gets more of the grit out of the chain than a softer
toothbrush does. No, it's not a substitute for taking the chain off and
soaking it, but it is quick and simple enough to do it frequently.


Nancy Piltch            piltch@ariel.lerc.nasa.gov
NASA Lewis Research Center, Cleveland Ohio 44135

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: yogi@coombs.anu.edu.au (Michael Hanslip)
Subject: Re: Taya "No Chain Tool" Crap Quality Chain
Organization: Computer Services Centre, Australian National University
Date:  7 Sep 92 22:29:08 GMT

c9223585@cc.newcastle.edu.au (THE PERSISTANT DEVIL) writes:

>In article <5Am-kf@engin.umich.edu>, trammell@engin.umich.edu (James Trammell) writes:
>> 
>> I've seen ads recently about a new chain on the market, made by a company
>> called Taya.  It seems they have 2 models, the Taya Relief and the Taya
>> Extreme.  Both are advertised as having a special master links that can be
>> snapped on or off with just the hands, i.e. no chain tool is needed.  They
	[stuff deleted]
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> -James

>I have had similar problems in the past with HG chains (with dirt,cleaning
>snapping replacement pins etc.)
>So I tried the Taya chain. It was great for a while, just snapping the chain on
>and off when it needed a clean, but then problems occured:
> - excelerated wear on all drive train parts, probably due to the material
>   used (it has three times the tensile strength)
> - One night while spriting on my MTB I heard a distinct cracking noise on every
>   revolution of the chain, after stopping and expecting the chain under the
>   illumination of my bike light I realised to my horror that one side of the
>   special SIGMA link had snapped and I was riding on a chain held together by
>   half a link! after walking home I quickly installed my old HG chain and
>   boght a set of pins

>I suppose it comes down to conveinance vs reliablity...

>-Tim

Are you aware that you are supposed to, according to Taya, replace the sigma
connector EVERY TIME you take the chain off-a la HG pins. The guys at the local 
shop told me I could _probably_ get away with using it 2 or 3 times. If you look
at the way it works, I wouldn't bet on it though. 

Given this knowledge, I would bet you wouldn't have any problems if you 
change the connector regularly. One other thing: I have been told that there
are about 5 different types of Taya chain from cheap to one that is better than
the DuraAce HG chain.

Michael Hanslip.
--
Michael Hanslip
Canberra, Australia
yogi@coombs.anu.edu.au  -  mdh410@csc.anu.edu.au
From: gerhard@ukcsd.uk.sun.com (Chris Gerhard - Sun U.K.)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Bent skewers...
Date: 15 Sep 1992 15:59:10 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems Federal, Milpitas, CA.
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: dredd.uk.sun.com

If you are referring to the quick release squewer. Then the real problem
is likely to be a bent or broken axle.  I would not recommend trying to straighten an axle for 2 reasons:

1)	You will almost certainly weaken the axle so it may break.

2) 	If the axle is not exactly straight then the wheel bearings will
	not run true. Which will in a short time cause excessive wear to
	the ball bearings and cones.
	
If I was you I would take a long look at the axle and if it is
bent or broken replace it.

hope that helps.

-- 
Chris Gerhard.
Sun Microsystems Ltd.
U.K. Answer Centre.
Phone: +44 276 691974
From: v008pcqu@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (Patrick E Tuxbury)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Suntour Sprint brake question
Date: 6 Sep 92 01:29:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41


     Yeah... well, I believe that was the name of the brake calipers I saw
today.   I'm looking to buy just a pair of calipers and I really wanted to
get Ultegra's or 105's but all of the bike stores around here tell me that
I have to buy the whole brakeset.  Does anyone know otherwise (are they just
pulling my leg so I have to buy the whole brakeset)?  Also, I saw some
Suntour Sprint brakes for $54.95 - does anyone know about the quality of
these components or should I go looking for something better if I want 105
or Ultegra quality components?  Thanks a lot everyone.
							patrick
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: CMSC28@maccvm.corp.mot.com (Mark Hickey)
Subject: Re: MTB Bar Ends vs Scott Bars
Organization: Motorola
Date: 15 Sep 1992 14:23:06 CDT

------------------------- Original Article -------------------------
maarrrk@seidel.ucsb.edu (Mark Erickson) writes:

>Scott MTB handlebars (the ones with the integral bar ends, like
>the AT-3) appear to be much lighter than the combined weight
>of regular bars and bar ends.

>Anybody have a good reason to go with regular bars/ends rather than
>the Scotts?

>--maarrrk

Maarrrk,
I use a set of narrow (20") MT4-Pros, and I swear by them.  They are
pretty light (not on the titanium-snob scale, but hey, I've got a
mortgage to worry about), and they give you a veritable plethora of
hand positions.  They are especially effective on a frame a little
shorter (front to back) than you might otherwise ride, since it will
allow you an upright "bmx" posture for the real hairy stuff, and a
laid-back (dare I say aero?) postition for the flatter stuff.  Of
course, they also prevent your knuckles from getting bashed, not to
mention they are so ugly, they will keep your bike from ever being
stolen.
(sigh), all the hand positions have kept me from breaking down and
They are, however, a real treat to install without gouging the
finish... oh well, that's what bar tape is for, I guess
Mark (on your left) Hickey
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: jaw38638@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Jason Andrew Weber)
Subject: Re: Am I too fat?
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 00:06:44 GMT

philg@zurich.ai.mit.edu (Philip Greenspun) writes:


>I broke the Brooks Gel Lite seat on my LL Bean Pathfinder (Really a
>Raleigh Heat or something).  There is kind of a hump in the middle now
>that catches me right in some painful spot.  Plus, the sides have
>little bows out.  Is this normal for a 200 lb rider after 200 miles of
>off-road use?  Am I staying on the saddle too much when going over
>rocks?

>Philip Greenspun
>MIT EECS

I weigh about 190-200 depending on what I ate the night before.  I am not
over weight though being that I am over 6 feet tall, and am rather stocky(sp?)
I ran with my Schwinn gel saddle for 500+ miles before I had to replace it
do to an unforseen stop of my bicycle.  But, it did not deform at all until 
the bike landed on it with more force than I care to relive again.  I replaced
it with a Waveflo saddle that I like very much.  But if LL Bean gives you
free saddles, don't look a gift horse in the mouth.

Jason
weber@eac1.cecer.army.mil
jaw38638@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: praetzel@marconi.uwaterloo.ca (Eric Praetzel)
Subject: Re: rear derraileur hangar broke
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 14:32:01 GMT

In article <UefXgsK00WB_I=nFod@andrew.cmu.edu> Sandi Alexander Kwee <sk1i+@andrew.cmu.edu> writes:
>I have a friend whose rear derraileur hangar bent inwards (the frame is
>a Gary Fisher aluminum). The guy at the bike shop just bent it back and
>said that this happens all the time and that bending it back is all you
>need to do to fix it. I thought that on aluminum frames, you couldn't

Yes it will work but the Al has been weakened or compromised.  But since the
hanger is not subject to any stress or fatigue it does not matter that much.
Doing this 2 or 3 times will cause the metal to fracture.  I don't think that
the type of alloy will make a significent difference if the material is so
severly deformed.  That was one reason for the replacable hanger.  The other
was that in cases like that the derailleur is going (or has gone) into the
spokes. It is probably better if it just breaks off and james the freewheel
 - wheel rather than bending the frame and jamming the wheel.  I have seen
derailleurs go into spokes a number of times and the amount of dammage was
always a lot worse when the derailleur did not break free.
  - Eric 
//  Have you cuddled your bike today? 
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: dahls@fhydra.dnet.unit.no (Joern Yngve Dahl-Stamnes)
Subject: Re: How do cyclocomputers perform in cold weather?
Reply-To: dahls@fhydra.dnet.unit.no (Joern Yngve Dahl-Stamnes)
Organization: University of Trondheim, NORWAY
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 92 12:21:20 EDT

Thus spoke the keyboard of freshair@iastate.edu (James W Gregory):
>How well do cyclocomputers perform in cold (0 F) weather?  Will they work 
>at all?  The instruction manual for my Vetta C20 says it is good to about 32 F
>(I think).  Since I spend about 1/4 of my riding time each year at or below 
>this temp, will it still work?  No doubt the display will be "slow"--i.e.,
>the elements in the LCD display will be slow to change due to the cold temp.
>But will it still record miles and elapsed time?  Also, is there any problem 
>with ice/snow build-up on the sensor(s)?

I've been riding my MTB with a Cateye computer last winter in temperatures
down to -12 C (~10 F). The display don't work very well (update very
slowly), but since it is dark most of the time, I don't care much about it.
I've been comparing the distance readout for a given route (winter vs.
summer ride), and my computer pick up every meter. The difference is so
little (under 200 meter for a 32 km long ride).

Several times during winter snow riding, there has been ice/snow build-up
close to the BB, around the breaks but not around the sensor (got only one
at the front wheel).

+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+--+-+-+-+-+-+-+
* I went back to my mother,           * Joern Yngve Dahl-Stamnes           *
* I said, "I'm crazy ma, help me!"    * University of Trondheim            *
* She said, "I know how it feels son, * The Norwegian Institute of Tech.   *
* 'cause it runs in the family."      * Division of Physical Electronics   *
*       - The Who, Quadrophenia       * e-mail: dahls@fhydra.dnet.unit.no  *
+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+--+-+-+-+-+-+-+
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: cczads@vax.nott.ac.uk
Subject: Computers - help/advice wanted
Reply-To: cczads@vax.nott.ac.uk
Organization: University of Nottingham, UK
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 15:57:58 BST

I'm looking into getting myself a cycle computer (with cadence feature),
but I am having difficulty getting hold of addresses (UK preferrably) to
which I can write to get information and specifications. I've looked 
through countless cycle magazines which all have loads of adverts for stuff
like CATEYE and AVOCET etc., but all they do is give a model number and no
details about features, fitting kits etc.

If any one knows where I can get info/catalogues/brochures, or can offer
advice/reviews from their own experience I'd be really grateful.

E-mail is preferable (after which I'll try to post a summary if anyones
interested)

Thsnks in advance
Drew

cczads@uk.ac.nott.vme or cczads@vme.nott.ac.uk (if you prefer)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen)
Subject: Re: Tire cuts: When is too bad?
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 92 05:40:29 GMT

In article <1992Sep7.145027.24829@midway.uchicago.edu> hrad@midway.uchicago.edu writes:
>The other
>thing you may want to think about is switching this tire to
>the front wheel where there will be less weight on it.

i don't think this is such a great idea.  if the tire blows out
you are going to lose steering control.  having a front tire
blow out at 50 mph is a scary experience.  i know, i've done it.
i'd just replace the tire.  you might get more life out of it,
but it's not worth it.  (listen to me talk.  my michelins have
cracks and cuts all over them and i still haven't gotten around
to replacing them yet.)

-teddy
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: bgeer@javelin.sim.es.com (Bob Geer)
Subject: Re: Am I too fat?
Reply-To: bgeer@javelin.sim.es.com
Organization: Evans & Sutherland Computer Corporation
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 19:13:08 GMT

>philg@zurich.ai.mit.edu (Philip Greenspun) writes:

>>I broke the Brooks Gel Lite seat on my LL Bean Pathfinder (Really a...

I have weighed 230-270 lbs. over the last 15 years & have owned an
Avocet Touring II, a Concor, 2 Turbo's, a Regal, a Flite, & some
generic padded saddle which came on my GT Avalanche.  I've never
broken a saddle yet, tho I did break an Avocet seat post bolt years
ago.  I would say you should expect better service than you got from
your saddle, assuming no undue treatment.

-- 
<> Bob `Bear' Geer <>  bgeer@beorn.sim.es.com                           /  <>
<>                 <>   (this *often* works)       __o      o   ,______/o  <>
<> Salt Lake City, <>  speaking only for myself,  -\<,     <\   ,__/   >   <>
<>          Ootah  <>  one of my many tricks      O/ O  __ /__,       /    <>
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: bt@irfu.se (Bo Thide')
Subject: Air transportation of bike.
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 08:55:42 GMT
Organization: Swedish Institute of Space Physics, Uppsala, Sweden

As a scientist, I make a lot of business travels and would
like to bring my bike (Miyata One Thousand) along, especially when
I go to warm places during the Scandinavian winter...:-)  Actually,
I just spent a week in Washington, DC, and could'nt almost bear the
sight of all the bikers having a good time while I had to walk
around town.

What is the best way and cheapest way to get your bike along?  Ar there
special bicycle transport cases or crates for sale?  Should I take it as
checked luggage/baggage or as air freight cargo?  Please e-mail your
experiences.

Bo
-- 
   ^   Bo Thide'--------------------------------------------------------------
  |I|        Swedish Institute of Space Physics, S-755 91 Uppsala, Sweden
  |R|      Phone: (+46) 18-303671.  Fax: (+46) 18-403100.  IP: 130.238.30.23
 /|F|\          INTERNET: bt@irfu.se      UUCP: ...!mcvax!sunic!irfu!bt  
 ~~U~~ ----------------------------------------------------------------sm5dfw-
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: koichi@unixg.ubc.ca (Koichi J Kishimoto)
Subject: Folding tires & straight sided rims
Organization: University of British Columbia, Vancouver, B.C., Canada
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 04:02:28 GMT

I'm thinking of getting a set of folding tires (Kevlar bead) for
my MTB (Araya CV7 rims) . I understand, however, that folding 
tires shouldn't be used on straight sided rims (as opposed to 
hook beaded rims). Is this true?

John Kishimoto
koichi@unixg.ubc.ca
koichi@mech.ubc.ca
Organization: Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 12:23:31 -0400 
From: Dino_P._Chiesa@transarc.com
Subject: Re: rear derraileur hangar broke
	<1992Sep10.010512.26408@PA.dec.com>


As I understand, the hangers are typically made of some steel alloy,
even on aluminum frames.  Or lugged carbon frames.  If this is true for
your frame, then it should be ok to bend them back into shape.  Once.


-dpc
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech