HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: gak@wrs.com (Richard Stueven)
Subject: Re: Beer/Brewing Periodicals?
Reply-To: gak@wrs.com
Organization: Wind River Systems, Inc.
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 16:12:10 GMT

In article 8266@msc.cornell.edu, srussell@lynx.msc.cornell.edu.UUCP (Stephen Russell,147 Bard,54648,) writes:
>Many regions of the US and Canada have their own 'brewspaper'.  I believe
>the first was the California Celebrator, a paper devoted to news about
>brewing, brewpubs, microbrews, homebrewing, etc.  These seem to be free
>papers, largely ad-supported, but clearly they take subscriptions.

Celebrator Beer News
P.O. Box 375
Hayward CA 94543

$14.95 for six bimonthly issues
$26.95 for twelve

(Not affiliated blah blah etc...I pick mine up for free at pubs.)

---
gak			Der Herr Buergermeister gibt bekannt, dass ab
gak@wrs.com		Donnerstag Bier gebraut wird und deshalb ab
attmail!gakhaus!gak	Mittwoch micht mehr in den Bach geschissen
107/H/3&4		werden darf.
From: copeland@lamar.ColoState.EDU (Jeffrey Copeland)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Question on legality of brewing
Date: 18 Aug 92 16:22:06 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Colorado State University, Fort Collins, CO  80523

In article <6574@tekig7.PEN.TEK.COM> alh@tekig1.PEN.TEK.COM (Al Hooton) writes:
>In article <1992Aug15.145101.27355@msc.cornell.edu> srussell@lynx.msc.cornell.edu.UUCP (Stephen Russell,147 Bard,54648,) writes:
>>
>>I am no lawyer, but I believe the federal law explicitly states that state
>>laws take priority, or something like that.  So states where homebrewing is
>>illegal aren't violating federal law.  I think GA, AL, UT and MO are the
>                                                              ^^^^
>>states where it's currently illegal to brew.
>
>	Man, I hope Dave Miller knows this - he lives there!!  :-)
>
>	I suspect (but don't know) that homebrewing is legal in MO...
>
Several months ago I heard from someone from Missouri (through r.c.b or HBD)
that it is illegal to homebrew there. And that the Gov would veto any
legislation trying to legalize homebrewing.  The potential light at the
end of the tunnel is that Missouri is getting a new Gov in Jan, and this
person was in contact with their representative to try and remedy the
situation.

Could someone (the original poster) from MO clarify this?

Jeff Copeland
Atmospheric Science
Colorado State University
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jpc@philabs.philips.com (John P. Curcio)
Subject: Re: The use of Grolsch bottles?
Organization: Philips Laboratories, Briarcliff Manor, NY.
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 13:37:58 GMT

In article <1992Aug11.200136.22447@news.nd.edu> ulick@chopin.helios.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford) writes:

>I read an article in the latest Zymurgy where the use of Grolsh bottles was
>suggested to save the expense of buying a capper.  I laughed.  Here 2 packs 
>of Grolsch are ~$4.  A case of cheap returnables, e.g. Huber, Rhinelaner,
>Braumeister or Falstaff is about $8-$9.  For a 5 gallon batch one would need
>40 Grolsch bottles, or 2.25 cases of rugular returnables.  The Grolsch
>bottles cost you $80, the Rhinelander about $20.


Ah-- that's the (only?) good thing about living in the Kingdom of
Cuomo.  Here in NY, there is a 5 cent deposit on said bottles, so
instead of having to purchase the wretched product inside, you can
visit the local beer distributor and purchase the returns for $1.00 a
case (of 20).  Most distributors were more than happy to sell them to
me, even when I told them why (seems like they wouldn't since their
customer base is shrinking :-)).  Of course, not knowing where they've
been might bother you, but a good long cleaning should take care of
that...

-JPC

-- 
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
John P. Curcio                  Go Bruins!                 Philips Laboratories
jpc@philabs.philips.com                                    345 Scarborough Road
(914) 945-6442                                       Briarcliff Manor, NY 10510
From: bfbrown@athena.mit.edu (Brian F. Brown)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Catalogs
Date: 14 Aug 92 15:06:50 GMT
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology

Wanted:
Catalogs or mailing addresses where I can send for supplier's catalogs.
I buy from the Modern Brewer in Cambridge and I seem to be paying a lot
more than what I see posted on the net.

Thanks-

-BB
From: copeland@lamar.ColoState.EDU (Jeffrey Copeland)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Bottle Color (was source of bottles)
Date: 12 Aug 92 17:13:23 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Colorado State University, Fort Collins, CO  80523

In article <1992Aug12.144938.3776@nntpd.lkg.dec.com> klett@ghill.enet.dec.com (Michael Klett) writes:
>As an aside, at my last homebrew club meeting (it was also my first - howdy
>folks - see you in Sept.) someone mentioned an interesting Federal law.
>It seems that imported beers in standard shaped bottles must be green glass.
>It seems that the Domestic Beer Industry convinced Congress that the American
>consumer was so stupid that they needed a simple way to distinguish between
>domestic and imported brew.  It seems to me that they lobbied for this just
>so that imported beer would light struck on the shelf causing the Domestic
>beer to taste better and hence, purchased more often.  Does anyone know
>more about this?
>
Seem's like rumour to me, from what I can tell most of the darker ales
come in dark brown bottles while the lighter lagers and pilsners in green
and the wheat beers in light brown. Or another way is British/Irish Isles
in brown and continental europe in green.  Of course there are exceptions
(like Sam Smith's in clear).  

Two other points, while brown may be the leading color in the US we also
have green and clear, and just what is "standard shaped" when it comes
to beer bottles (long necks?).

Jeff Copeland
Atmospheric Science
Colorado State University
From: "glenn anderson" <glenn.anderson@canrem.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: aeration - when?
Date: 19 Aug 92 12:46:50 EST
Reply-To: "glenn anderson" <glenn.anderson@canrem.com>
Distribution: rec
Organization: Canada Remote Systems


SP>you want to aerate the wort before pitching the yeast.  So after the boil,
SP>and cooling (if you are cooling) you should transfer the boiled wort vigorously
SP>to the primary mixing in lots of air.


This is a point that I've been fairly confused about and did some digging
on. There is one fact, no oxygen should enter your wort once you have pitched
yeast. There is another fact, your wort should be well oxygenated prior
to pitching. The removal of oxygen from the wort will occur as an action of
the yeast stripping O2 as part of it's aerobic processes. Enuf said.

My process once the boil is complete is to "dump" the hot wort into my
lauter tun, which acts as a hop-back at this point and I sparge into my
wort chiller (counter flow). Once out of the chiller it goes into a carboy
where it sits for about 15 minutes and the cold break settles out, I then
siphon to the primary,aerate,and pitch the yeast. Temperature of the wort is 
usually 65-75 at this point. Total elapsed time from end of boil, about
35 minutes.

Now, acording to Millers TCHOHB this is the worst thing you can do to 
hot wort. He says it will be "terribly oxygenated, with now way of 
rectifying". I'm confused, don't we want oxygen in the wort prior to 
pitching? Whats' the difference between oxygen in hot wort and oxygen
in cold wort, if there is only a 35 minute differential? Is there some
sort of O2/heat conversion process that creates unuseable oxygen?

Doesn't make sense to me.......GA 
---
  DeLuxe 1.21 #11377  Brewer fails CRC - More bottles than caps
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario/Detroit, MI
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
From: slk6p@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: RE: Yeast Culturing - No Dregs Here!
Date: 15 Aug 92 01:11:50 MDT
Organization: Utah State University

Some of this discussion of yeast culturing bothers me.

If you think about it in terms or a race to maintain the most of the 
microbes that you want    . . . . to keep in your beer:

	It makes much more sense to me to culture from a pure culture 
(namely store bought liquid yeast) and get several batches out of one
envelope-  than to try reculturing yeast that has already been through 
your carboy.
	The thing to ask yourself is:  Are you sterile techniques applied
during the course of your brewing as good as those of a company like Wyeast?

	By the end of a fermentation there has been ample possibility for even
a few contaminating bacteria of fungi cells to get a foothold.  By reculturing
this you open up the opportunity for these contaminants to represent a larger
chunk of the population of a new beer.

	When preparing storage cultures for starters from the primary yeast
source there is much less chance (if you are careful) to establish significant
contamination.  

	It is a matter of choice.  Personally I do have the equipment and
experience to do it properly,  but even without, I'd rather rig up a way to do
it from the original culture than some 'ol yeasty dregs with who knows what
lurking about.

_____________________________________________________________________
                                J. Wyllie (The Coyote)
                                SLK6P@cc.usu.edu

"As long as he's got 8 fingers and 8 toes, he's alright by me."  H.J.S.
_______________________________________________________________________

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: cd651@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Wally L. Blume)
Subject: Sweet Wine
Reply-To: cd651@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Wally L. Blume)
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 92 05:55:41 GMT


  I've always let my wine ferment to completion (thats how I was taught)
as this produces a dry wine. I recently heard that interrupting the
fermintation part way through will produce a sweet wine (like a dessert
wine). Question: How can I halt the little yeasties in mid ferment? 
-- 
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
   /   / __  /  /     |         Wally Blume         |"God does not play dice
  /   / _ / /  / /_/  |      Internet address:      |  with the universe."
 /_/_/ /_/ /  / __/   | cd651@cleveland.freenet.edu | -- Albert Einstein
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: rm34@quads.uchicago.edu (Robert James Mohammed Monk)
Subject: Re: EBEWS (Exploding Bottle Early Warning Syste
Reply-To: rm34@midway.uchicago.edu
Organization: Media Maven
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 21:11:33 GMT

In article <BszKIE.53M@wrs.com> gak@wrs.com writes:
>In article 11230@progress.com, rich@progress.COM (Rich Lenihan) writes:
>I found that on certain bottles my capper
>does not leave this indentation, and those bottles don't carbonate
>properly.
>
>The difference seems to be what I'll call the "collar" of the bottle.
>It's where the neck of the bottle is wider just below the opening on
>top.  Anchor bottles, for example, have a very short collar, and they
>don't work well.  Most longnecks, for example, have good long collars,
>and they work very well.  My bottle collection is large enough now that
>I simply discard bottles with short collars.

I've noticed this as well.  Rather than toss all of those perfectly good 
bottles, though, I've found that if you rotate the bottle 90 degrees and re-cap
(give the cap a second squeeze) it works just fine.

The way I see it, if you can afford to throw away bottles, it's evidence that
you're not brewing enough!

Cheers
Brother Robert
From: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us (Joseph Nathan Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: UV a problem while brewing?
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 92 19:07:15 EDT
Organization: 5 Sigma Software
Reply-To: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us
X-Mailer: uAccess - Macintosh Release: 1.5v5


In article <1992Aug20.031749.17452@telematics.com> (rec.crafts.brewing), ted@telematics.com (Ted Goldblatt) writes:
)...........However, it occurred to
) me that there is a relatively substantial amount of daylight that
) gets into the garage (unshaded window, occasionally open garage
) door).  Should I worry (I know, don't worry) about this ...

Yes.  But all you need to do is put some sort of blanket over your
carboy(s).  You can do the engineering to make this work with your
cooling system (or use aluminum foil ...)  

Just make sure the beer doesn't get *any* direct sunlight or any 
strong diffused sunlight.

uunet!joebloe!joseph   (609) 273-8200 day   joseph%joebloe@uunet.uu.net
v   v  sssss | Certified Guru: all-grain brewing,| 2102 Ryan's Run East
 v v  s   s  | C, synthesizer comp & arranging,  | Rt 38 & 41
  v    sss   | photography. Also not a bad cook. | Maple Shade NJ 08052
-----My employer isn't paying for this, and my opinions are my own-----
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: klett@ghill.enet.dec.com (Michael Klett)
Subject: Re: Source of Bottles
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 15:40:35 GMT


In article <walker.27@main.mndly.umn.edu>, walker@main.mndly.umn.edu (TIM WALKER) writes...

>Yes, I also like bottles w/o labels. I scored some green Rolling Rock cases 
>that I use when my Grolsch bottles run out. But you should be careful 
>with the clear Corona bottles, as extended exposure to light can rob beer of 
>its taste.

Well Tim,
I'm going to ask you to take your own advice.  Green glass does not protect
very much - in my mind it is almost as bad as clear.  I do use green myself
on occasion, but I keep the bottles in closed cases or the fridge.

As an aside, at my last homebrew club meeting (it was also my first - howdy
folks - see you in Sept.) someone mentioned an interesting Federal law.
It seems that imported beers in standard shaped bottles must be green glass.
It seems that the Domestic Beer Industry convinced Congress that the American
consumer was so stupid that they needed a simple way to distinguish between
domestic and imported brew.  It seems to me that they lobbied for this just
so that imported beer would light struck on the shelf causing the Domestic
beer to taste better and hence, purchased more often.  Does anyone know
more about this?

Mike

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing,alt.beer
From: dkl@xcluud.sccsi.com (David Karl Leikam)
Subject: Re: MURPH'S SHIT CAME IN!  MURPH'S SHIT CAME IN!!
Keywords: Uh oh, now I'm gonna get it - I swore on the NETWORK.  Ugh!
Organization: Greater Montrose UFO Appreciation Society & Data Haven
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 20:32:47 GMT

   [longish saga elided]
 
   Fergot all about the wooden spoon, dintchya? Now whatchya gonna do?
From: unglenie@ford.ecn.purdue.edu (Robert J Unglenieks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: labels...
Date: 12 Aug 92 20:45:56 GMT
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network

afd@bellcore.com writes:
>Use milk for sticking homebrew labels to bottles.  Soak your
>home-designer label (no stickum on the back, please.  Then
>you'll have problems) in some milk, then slap it on the bottle.
>Pat it dry with a towl or sponge.
>I seem to remember that the milk proteins act as water-soluble
>glue.  
>
>Taking them off is easier.  Soak the bottle for about 30 secs.
>The labels float right off.  Oh yeah, and it's environmentally
>friendly too......

Except to the cow..........

Rob U, why mess up a vegan delicacy with milk in the packaging?
--
-       Rob Unglenieks             REAL race cars DON'T wear BOWTIES       -
-     "Now is the time when men work quietly in the fields and women       -
-      weep softly in the kitchen; the legislature is in session and       -
-      no man's property is safe."            -Daniel Webster-             -
From: GRIGG@dirac.physics.jmu.edu (Steve Grigg)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Lehman's Address (oak kegs)
Date: 15 Aug 92 03:35:49 GMT
Organization: James Madison University physics dept., VA USA
X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.11

In <1992Aug13.001450.2117@lmt.mn.org> ciaran@county.lmt.mn.org writes:

[stuff deleted]
>   Ciaran. <ciaran@county.lmt.mn.org>

How do you use an oak keg? I've seen them used but at the time was not brewing
and didn't ask. I figured it was magic. Do you carbonate? more? less? Any other
answers? Any side-by-side taste tests with same beer from cornelius and oak?

Steve
From: hersh@expo.lcs.mit.edu (Jay Hersh)
Subject: Re: Mead/Cider making and apple-juice preservatives
Organization: X Consortium, MIT Laboratory for Computer Science
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 16:10:57 GMT

abirenbo@pollux.cel.scg.hac.com (Aaron Birenboim) writes:


>the common stabilizers i am familiar with are _______ sorobate.
>I think i have been using potassium sorobate, but i believe
>i have seen sodium sorobate, or some other chemical in the same family,
>in some ciders and soda pop.

the most common preservatives found in stores are
potassium sorbate or sodium benzoate. they are typically used at 
levels of 1/10 of 1%, and generally this is enough to do in most
yeast.

	JaH

--
Hopfen und Malz, Gott erhalts
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: casey@magic.lexmark.lex.usa.na (Patrick Casey)
Subject: beer made from bread
X-Disclaimer: These views are the poster's and not necessarily those of Lexmark
Reply-To: pacasey@lexmark.com
Organization: Lexmark International, Lexington KY
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 14:50:36 GMT


I think I read in Michael Jackson's _Pocket Guide to Beer_ that the
Anchor Brewing Company once made a specialty beer from bread,
following some culture's tradition (was it Sumerian??).  Does anybody
have a recipe for something like this?  Or would the resulting beer
even be worthwhile?  Something tells me that with the proper recipe,
it could indeed be worthwhile!

Patrick
--
Patrick A. Casey      pacasey@lexmark.com         Hi, I.S. big brothers!
From: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us (Joseph Nathan Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: You Think "Salvator" is Hard? [Re: Salvator (pronunciation)]
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 92 00:29:52 EDT
Organization: 5 Sigma Software
Reply-To: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us
X-Mailer: uAccess - Macintosh Release: 1.5v5


In article <binkley.714338744@beagle> (rec.crafts.brewing), binkley@boulder.Colorado.EDU (Jon Binkley) writes:
) dprcta@inetg1.ARCO.COM (Craig Artley) writes:
) 
) >Seeing this list makes me think that I've been pronouncing Salvator
) >incorrectly.  I've been rhyming it with El Salvador, the country.
) >Apparently it should rhyme with the other beers in this list.
) 
) The Germans I've known pronounce it "sal VAH tor"; emphasis on
) the second sylable, "ah" sound rather than "ay".  For that matter
) they pronounce Paulaner as "po LAHN er", rather than "PAUL an er",
) like most Americans do.

Geez.  To me at least the alternative pronunciations of "Salvator"
are obvious.

But I have yet to guess at ANY suitable pronunciation of

	g u e u z e

OK, so I guess it's time for me to go watch that copy of "The Beer
Hunter" that my friend Nick loaned me ....

uunet!joebloe!joseph   (609) 273-8200 day   joseph%joebloe@uunet.uu.net
v   v  sssss | Certified Guru: all-grain brewing,| 2102 Ryan's Run East
 v v  s   s  | C, synthesizer comp & arranging,  | Rt 38 & 41
  v    sss   | photography. Also not a bad cook. | Maple Shade NJ 08052
-----My employer isn't paying for this, and my opinions are my own-----
From: slk6p@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: dir/register
Date: 17 Aug 92 00:49:42 MDT
Organization: Utah State University

I tried to E-mail this to Aaron, but it bounced,  so here's a post:

Mead/Acid testing:

 attn:   (Aaron Birenboim)
>In article <1992Aug11.165220.1368@lut.ac.uk> C.V.Copas@lut.ac.uk (Conn Copas)
writes:
>>In article <22772@hacgate.SCG.HAC.COM> abirenbo@antares.cel.scg.hac.com
(Aaron Birenboim) writes:
>>>If any one knows:  What kind of acid content is most desirable for mead?


I think the proper way (or common way) of expressing acid is in ppt (parts 
per thousand) of tartaric.  You can convert to sulfuric, but . . . 

Acid blend is the way to go.  I just checked my recipes and they say
.4 to .5 percent acid (as tartaric i presume)

>> Thus, to do it properly, you need an
>>acid test kit consisting of a stock alkali solution and some indicator.

Acid testing kits contain 0.1 M NaOH in water, and a color solution
of phenolphthalein in Methanol (and water? I don't know the conc.)  It is the
color indicator.  I've tried the testing procedure in a Wine-making book if
you're interested.  I haven't used it on a mead yet, but made/ am making a wine
so I think I'll try it next mead.  The short cut is to just add a few tsp of
acid blend and see how it tastes after a years wait!  
        Tannin-  is the grape tannin found in the skins of the fruit.  It aids
the flavor or something..."astrigency and character.  Helps clear and prolong
life of wine."    Yes it is tannic acid,  from tea. " For best results use only
grape tannin."  That's why I've added raisins to some of my meads.  

                                        Get back at me   ***

                                                J. Wyllie


        I have some mead recipes if anyone is interested - email me.

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: devine@49ers (bob devine)
Subject: Re: UV a problem while brewing?
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL3
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 18:09:50 GMT

mcnally@wsl.dec.com (Mike McNally) writes:
: Wrap your carboy in aluminum foil.  It is quite opaque.

While Mike is correct, I think that aliminum foil would be a bother
to use because you would need to overlap several bands.

What I do is put a large bag over the carboy.  Those large garbage
bags or paper bags work well.  I've even seen someone use his old
flannel shirts to cover the carboy so that the carboy looked like
a miniature version of him!

Be sure to leave room for the fermentation lock to adequately vent.

Bob
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Subject: Re: Grains - after mashing, then what?
Keywords: malt, grain, cooking
Organization: ddsw1.MCS.COM Contributor, Chicago, IL
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 12:55:02 GMT
X-Disclaimer:  Material posted in this article is the sole responsibility of
                the poster and does not represent MCSNet or the system owners.

In article <jdecarlo.224.714148742@mitre.org> jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo) writes:
>In article <1992Aug18.030147.10322@ddsw1.mcs.com>
>
>>Make bread of course.  You just need a workable recipe.  Try this:
>
>Of course, when using spent grain you have to be wary of any hard kernels 
>left.  People have cracked their teeth on these.  Presumably a good milling 
>job will take care of this, but it might still be worth turning the grain 
>into flour before cooking with it.

My guess is that they have cracked their teeth on rocks or other foreign
matter in the malt.  I hate to downplay the importance of a good mill but
I would think even unmilled grain would be soft (but bulky) after an hour
of mashing.

The problem with turning it into flour before using is that it must be dried and
this is a monumental pain.  Secondly, if you turn it into flour you lose all
the great roughage that ye ol colon needs to live to a ripe old age.

js

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: rclopton@hoss.unl.edu (richard clopton)
Subject: dry hopping ?
Organization: University of Nebraska - Lincoln
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 21:27:02 GMT

We've got a recipe for bitter (thanks to the guys on the 'net),
the refers to "dry hopping".  Never done it.  Never read about it.
Now, while I can imagine several ways to do this - any one out there
really know what goes into this "dry hopping" thing?

What's the effect of dry hopping rather than hopping the wort at boil?

thanks,
Rich

--
RICH CLOPTON           |"These chapters, then, are the annals of a long and
Parasitology (Yeehaa!) |uncompleted running.  I leave them here lest the end
University of Nebraska |come on me unawares as it does to all fugitives."
rclopton@hoss.unl.edu  |     - Loren Eiseley  'The Night Country'