HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: ctschmid@mtu.edu (Schmidt)
Subject: Re: MOLDY BEER!!!!
Organization: Michigan Technological University
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1992 01:20:04 GMT

In article <622.180.uupcb@hardgood.com>, john.fix@hardgood.com (John Fix)  writes:

|> 
|> What's it look like now?  Is this your first batch?  The early signs of
|> fermentation appear as white patches floating on the surface of the
|> wort, and build up to full fermentation activity.  If the fermentation
|> began by this time, odds are you're probably ok, although there may be
|> <some> contamination from the top falling in the wort.
|> 
|> Generally, you wouldn't see such an obvious sign of contamination (i.e.
|> mold growing all over the place) but would experience problems with
|> flavor and/or clarity further along in the fermentation and bottling
|> process.  Next time, sanitize the top (and everything else which will be
|> in the vicinity of your beer), so you won't have to worry.
|> 
|>                                   -= John =

   What's it look like now?  Well, now it doesn't look so good.  We dedided that
since it hadn't started to ferment (it was a double batch and the other
carboy was starting to kick in) we reboiled , cleaned
everything our, poured it back in, let it  cool, and added more yeast.
That was on Tuesday or Wednesday.  Absolutely nothing has happened since 
then.  It's not our first batch - number four or five, but we hadn't seen
anything like what was happening on the top of the liquid before - white,
fungal looking patches floating on the surface.  Do different yeasts 
ferment in different ways i.e. do these white patches always appear?  

Thanks for all the suggestions.

C. Schmidt                                                                                                                  
-- 
From: Rick.Garvin@f131.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Rick Garvin)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Your Request for Cherry
Date: Thu, 05 Nov 1992 00:00:02 -0500

After my comments about the futility of adding fruit to a stout I    
received a bit of mail from people relating, in all cases, their with  
Papazian's "Cherrys in the Snow Stout." Thank you for the feed back. I   
still maintain that the effect of good fruit is diminished by making it
stand beside black grain. I have made a number of fruit beers over the
years and have found that my favorites were high gravity pale beers with
a very little hops.

Here is my, and Delano Dugarm's recipe for 2 5 gallon batches of fruited
Belgian Ale:

Per 5 gallons:

3.3 lbs Northwestern Weizen Extract
3.3 lbs Northwestern Golden Extract
4   lbs Alexanders Light Extract
2   oz  Saaz, 2.2 AAU, boiling
1/4 oz  Saaz, last 10 minutes of boil
        Irish Moss

O.G: 1.074

Yeast: Slurry from fully fermented 1 gallon 1.040 starter of Wyeast
       Belgian.

Ferment to completion, transfer to a secondary (I use 7.5 gallon plastic).
To one 5 gallon batch add 12 lbs sour cherries (bought in season and
frozen). To the other 5 gallon batch add 6 lbs of wild Blackberries.
The plan is to then age for a few weeks in carboys.

___---------------------

I added the fruit last night (11/4/92) and they look very nice side by
side. One is a very dark purple. There is absolutely no doubt that there
are blackberries in that. The other is a more subtle red color. I will
let you know how it turns out.

Cheers
used, and batch of


 * JABBER v1.1 * Never drink more than you weigh.
From: rp9780@mexico (Rudyard A K Porter)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Hombrewer survey
Date: 4 Nov 92 14:49:51 GMT
Organization: Medtronic, Inc.

Two purposes for this: to see if I can post/receive netnotes and also
to do this survey I've been meaning to do for quite some time.


Please provide the following information, whether a novice or expert:

Name
Mail Address
City, State, Country where you live
Years of brewing experience
Extract/Partial Mash/Full Mash or Combination thereof
Kegging equipment?
Priming method(s) used
Favorite beer style 1)to drink 2)to brew


Mail me directly and I will provide a directory and some statistical
analysis containing complex(!) averaging, enumerations, and histograms
of the data. Then I will post the results back to the net.  Plus it
will be fun to get a bunch of mail in my box.  (I will just have to
remember to set my environment to NoBeep for incoming mail!)

*******************************************************************************
Rudyard Anderson Knox Porter             *  Life's but a stumbling shadow,
rp9780@medtronic.com                     *  Full of sounds of beer glasses,
Minneapolis, Minnesota                   *  Signifying everything!  
                                         *     1st draft, MacBeth
*******************************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: akerson@deimos.af.mil (Pete Akerson - akerson%srg@uunet.uucp)
Subject: Re: $10.95 Carbuoys, try 7gal. $10.
Organization: Arinc Research Corp.
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 92 14:29:16 GMT



sandy@hpwrce.mayfield.hp.com (Sandy Knight) notes :
>> $10.95 for a 5 gallon carbouy.
>> Bristol Pure water. (408) 270-8485. The person to speak to is Richard.

You'all may also care to try St. Patricks of Texas, (512-832-9045)
$10 for a 7 gallon carbuoy.  (clean! but Used Nitric acid containers.)
she might reply to e-mail, try oconnor@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu

>> I have no affiliation with this store, was just happy to score some cheap
>> carbouys.

ditto. flame away if you feel the need.
From: wolfgang@cats.ucsc.edu (Robert Frank Dougherty)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: cleaning wort chillers
Date: 11 Nov 1992 20:14:23 GMT
Organization: University of California; Santa Cruz
NNTP-Posting-Host: am.ucsc.edu


In article <BxJ2MG.Gyp@news.dtc.hp.com> peterm@dtc.hp.com (Sweet Pete) writes:
>>I just clean mine with soapy water after use.  To sterilize it, I remove
>>the vinyl tubing and pop the chiller in the oven and bake it at about 350F
>>for about 20 minutes.  I do this when I start brewing and just leave it
>
>I put mine in the boil for the last 10 minutes.  This is guaranteed to
>sterilize it , but I'm wondering if I'm likely to get any tainting.
>Comments?
>
>	Peter
...
Tainting from the copper was my concern.  That's why I bake mine.  I don't
know enough chemistry to be sure that any copper gets into the beer, but
I try to keep beer-copper contact to a minimum, just to be sure.

-Bob Dougherty
wolfgang@cats.ucsc.edu


From: Jeffrey.Jackson@f131.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Jeffrey Jackson)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Color guidelines
Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1992 21:44:52 -0500

Anyone know of any guidelines for determining the color rating of a homebrew?  I
have a formula for determining color based on ingredients, with the color
measured in SRM.  How can I be sure my final product is the right color?  A
recent pale ale was the color of an old penny.  I called it a porter and it
tasted good anyway.  But I would like to know the color rating of the beers I
brew.  Is there any kind of chart or card available that can be compared to the
finished beer to determine color?  I have my doubts that the recipe formula for
SRM is very accurate.  Any experience or comments?
From: esharp@sage.cc.purdue.edu (The Baker)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: beer mats
Date: 9 Nov 92 23:27:48 GMT
Article-I.D.: mentor.BxH2IC.7wx
Distribution: all
Organization: Purdue University Computing Center


 I just recieved the flyer from American Coaster Co. out of the Buffalo, N.Y.
area.  If you are looking for a beer mat that you can put a 3 line message on,
they have a deal with one of 8 designs and 3 lines of 22 spaces/letters for 
$25.00 plus shipping ($4.25 to me in Indiana) for 2000 mats (medium weight
 , not like napkins.)  This is the minimum and you must order in lots of 2000
so perhaps it is better for clubs as 2000 mats will last me for quite a while.

If you want your own design and message, it is fairly expensive for quantities
under 100,000 ($45.00/color prep charge plus the cost of the mats (the more
colors, the more expensive)  I'll be getting 2000 a bit cheaper.

I have posted this as there was some interest in this topic, not for any
commercial purpose as I have never dealt with this company except calling
for their flyer.  The number is 1-716-693-6540.

)
******************************************************************************* All animals are strictly dry, they sinless live and swiftly die.
But sinful, Ginful, beer soaked man survives three score years and ten
                                                -origin unknown-
*******************************************************************************
Edwin Sharp
esharp@sage.cc.purdue.edu
From: lf07@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (LAWRENCE FARMER)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: cleaning wort chillers
Date: 12 Nov 92 21:09:43 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University
Re:  Cleaning wort chillers/Copper in the brew pot

In article <BxJ2MG.Gyp@news.dtc.hp.com>, peterm@dtc.hp.com (Sweet Pete) writes:
>
>I put mine in the boil for the last 10 minutes.  This is guaranteed to
>sterilize it , but I'm wondering if I'm likely to get any tainting.
>Comments?


A couple of years ago, I decided to use an old Revereware pot (you know, the
ones with the copper bottoms) to sparge my wort into the fermenter.  Figuring
to take the lazy way out, I "added" the pot to the wort for the last 10
minutes of the boil.  The part of the pot that was not quite submerged
retained its usual dull looks but the submerged copper came out shiny as new.
(Now you all know what to do with that REALLY bad batch)  Perhaps it was
my imagination, but I would swear that the beer had metallic bite to it.  At
any rate, I keep my wort's metal contact limited to stainless steel.

-- Larry Farmer --
Xref: sparky rec.crafts.brewing:6775 comp.os.os2.misc:36384
From: chandoni@husc8.harvard.edu (John-Marc Chandonia)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing,comp.os.os2.misc
Subject: OS/2 .INF version of Cat's Meow II available
Date: 13 Nov 92 17:54:42 GMT
Article-I.D.: husc3.1992Nov13.125443.17413
Distribution: world
Organization: Harvard University Science Center

For those of you in c.o.o.misc, CM2 is a collection of homebrew
recipies accumulated from the net.  I have translated it into
.INF (on-line book) format and uploaded it to hobbes (ftp-os2.nmsu.edu) 
in the pub/uploads directory, where it may not stay long since it's
not directly OS/2 related.

I will upload the file to sierra.stanford.edu when I get permission
from the site administrator; this might be a more appropriate
place to keep the file than hobbes.

JMC
-- 
chandoni@husc8.harvard.edu    | I will not yell fire in a crowded classroom
John-Marc Chandonia           | I will not yell fire in a crowded classroom
Graduate Biophysics Program   | I will not yell fire in a crowded classroom 
Harvard University            | I will not yell fire ...
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: crick@bnr.ca
Subject: Re: grain crushing
Organization: Bell-Northern Research
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 21:16:04 GMT

In article <BxGwJD.Du6@ddsw1.mcs.com> arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
writes:
>redfreak@softcopy.ecn.purdue.edu (Thomas Lobonc) writes:
>: I know what a good crush is supposed to look like, but unfortunately I
>: can't get one with my Corona. Whole grains on one side, flour on the
>: other, and good crush in the middle.  What is the accepted procedure
>: for dealing with the flour? Is there one? 
I put a few washers between the bolts that hold the part that
holds the outboard grinding plate. This is the yoke that is held 
on with th wing nuts. Before this mod, I had to run the
wingnuts really loose to get a coarse enough grind, and the 
third tennsioning bolt had to be wound right out.
With the washers, the yoke is held solid, with teh plates further apart
than before I did the mod. This allows the tensioning bolt (the middle one on
the outboard side to be adjusted to control the grind.

Bill Crick   ->Brewius, Ergo Sum!
From: ulick@bernini.helios.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Cider body
Date: 6 Nov 92 19:37:27 GMT
Article-I.D.: news.1992Nov6.193727.5293
Distribution: all
Organization: OUC, University of Notre Dame

In article <BxB5Aq.D30@mentor.cc.purdue.edu> esharp@sage.cc.purdue.edu (The Baker) writes:
>bit more body in my drinks.  What, besides flaked barley, can I use to
>increase the body?  I was thinking of just dipping into my supply of
>oatmeal and steeping about 1 cup/gallon of cider for about 1/2 hour and
>adding it to the cider.  Any thoughts?  I've added such fun things as
>other fruits and some DME (big mistake, quite enough fermentables in
>the cider alone, last time I make anything over 10%!) but I would like
>something that doesn't change the taste that much but still adds body.

Where would enzymes to saccerify oat or barley come from?  Perhaps if you
did a mini mash with some malt you could add it and would get some head
retention proteins too.  For straight body I'd buy dextrins from a homebrew 
store.  They are used for this in winemaking, I think, and I did see them at my
homebrew store when I cleaned em out of malt last weekend :-).  


+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 
+ 'There was a  master come unto the earth, + Ulick Stafford, PP-ASEL       +
+    born in the holy land of Indiana,      + Dept of Chemical Engineering, +
+ in the mystical hills east of Fort Wayne'.+ Notre Dame, IN 46556          +
+      B'fhearr liom bheith ag eitilt.      +    ulick@bach.helios.nd.edu   +
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: gcohen@mailer.cc.fsu.edu (Gregory Cohen)
Subject: Re: Applecomb
Keywords: applecomb
Organization: Florida State University
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 92 03:34:11 GMT

In article <1992Nov1.172854.18983@socrates.umd.edu> cm445a10@socrates.umd.edu (Troy Holt) writes:
>Hi homebrewers.  I'm a first time poster so pardon me if this is garbled.
>
>I was wondering if any one out there has used Applecomb in their mead
>recipes?  I search all the posts in this news group and found 0 references.
>For those who don't know what applecomb is, it is "made by bees from
>sweetened apple juice".  It has a strong apple flavor. The USDA won't
>let the producers call it honey.
>
>I was wondering: (1) What ratio I should replace honey with applecomb in my 
>mead recipes?  (2) Does the apple flavor become more or less noticable in the
>final product?  (3) Does anyone have a recipe for a "Holiday Mead"?  I was
>thinking about a mead with applecomb and typical "holiday" spices?
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>-- 
>**********************************************
>Troy Holt
>cm445a10@socrates.umd.edu


Ok, fist of all I would not worry about a direct replacement ration, I'd worry about what the final Specific gravity was.  Look up in a good winemaking book
a SG table to find out how sweet/strong you want your mead and go.  While your
at it try making some Melo-mel (fruit/honey wine)

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: wodarz@panther.mot.com (Dennis Wodarz)
Subject: Re: Wyeast 2112
Reply-To: wodarz@panther.mot.com
Organization: INFO Enterprizes (A Motorola Company)
Distribution: Everywhere
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 22:19:47 GMT

I found a package of Wyeast that did not have any of the boxes checked on the pre-printed package. Instead someone had hand written 2112 or 2012 (can't tell)
on it. There was no description. What kind of yeast is this?  Is there a
complete list of the yeasts that Wyeast offers available someplace. Descriptions of
the various yeast characteristics would also be useful.


---

	Dennis Wodarz
	wodarz@panther.mot.com

	INFO Enterprises (A Motorola Company)
	3260 N. Colorado St.
	Chandler, AZ 85225

	602 545-6360
	602 545-6353 FAX


Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: redfreak@softcopy.ecn.purdue.edu (Thomas Lobonc)
Subject: grain crushing
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 21:26:07 GMT

I know what a good crush is supposed to look like, but unfortunately I
can't get one with my Corona. Whole grains on one side, flour on the
other, and good crush in the middle.  What is the accepted procedure
for dealing with the flour? Is there one?  Has anyone done any 
experiments to see how this flour affects extraction efficiency, stuck
sparges, extra tannins in the beer from the finely ground husks, etc.?
I have found that a lot of flour in the lauter tun can slow down the flow
rate, but I have never had a stuck sparge. For my last batch, I took the
crushed grain outside and shook it up in the wind until most of the flour
was gone. Then I ran the crushed grain through the Corona again and 
removed most of the flour with a fairly fine strainer.  The crushed grain,
which looked "good", was then mashed.  Was it a good or bad idea to
remove the flour?  How many SG points might this cause to be lost?  My
extraction figures are meaningless, since I have no control to compare them
to.

Tom

P.S. Jack, I'm sure a maltmill will improve my crush, but I can't afford
one!
From: abirenbo@rigel.cel.scg.hac.com (Aaron Birenboim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: MOLDY BEER!!!!
Date: 5 Nov 92 23:34:59 GMT
Organization: Hughes Aircraft Colorado Engineering Labs

In article <1992Nov3.191834.25007@pbhyf.PacBell.COM> malodah@PacBell.COM (Martin A. Lodahl) writes:
>In article <1992Nov3.170823.24385@mtu.edu> ctschmid@mtu.edu (Schmidt) writes:
>>Help!  
>>
>>   We brewed a batch of beer last Saturday and things went all right.  The
>>problem came when it was time to put the top onto the carboy.  The top slipped
>>into the carboy - and who knows - maybe it was contaminated.  Well a two
>>days later, there seems to be some mold growing on the top of the brew.
>>
>>What to do?  Should we try to ride it out, or reboil and add new yeast? (or
>>is the latter not an option)
>
>Personally, I'd throw the damn stuff out.

first of all...   i'd pay attention to what martin sez.  he knows of
what he speaketh.

however... not all mold is nasty.  When trying to culture from
a berliner-weisse (berliner-kindl) i got a fuzzy fungus like
thing in the beer.  (not totally unlike vinegar "mother")

i was feeling brave... so i tasted the starter a few months
after it cleared.  the fungus cleared, mostly, too.  you could still
see it, but it stuck togeather, and much of it settled.  It was
delicous.  It was NOT sour (dang! i wanted the lactobacillus!)
but had a marvelou belgian-like complexity.  Somewhere between
the spicyness of a lambic, and the spicyness of a MILD belgian
ale (like corsendonk).  I may just make 6 gallons of wort next
session, and brew 1 gallon on this wild culture.  I'll report
on the headaches later ;-)

--
Aaron Birenboim         |
birenb@hac2arpa.hac.com |
                        |
H (303) 871-8271        |
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: curtis@opium.cs.odu.edu (vincent curtis)
Subject: brewing question
Organization: Old Dominion University, Norfolk, Va
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1992 21:11:58 GMT

Greetings all!
I recently started my first two batches of homebrew.  With the first I added
dry active yeast directly to the wort after it had cooled to room temperature.
Visible signs of fermentation started within two days after, but since have
fizzeled out (i.e. no foaming or bubbling).
With the second batch I made a yeast starter which I added to the wort.  Again
fermentation seemed to start ok but now is beginning to fade.  There's still
little patches of foam on top, but shouldn't the foam completely cover the
top?  
It's only been a little over a week on both batches, so should I wait longer or
has something gone wrong?

-VEC
From: billm@oakhill.sps.mot.com (Bill Moyer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: kegging vs. bottling, split batch comparison
Date: 6 Nov 92 23:06:13 GMT
Article-I.D.: oakhill.1992Nov6.230613.7754
Organization: Motorola Inc., Austin Tx.

I'd like to open a discussion with those of you
who use cornelius kegs for kegging homebrew. Our
brewing outfit (Driftwood Brewers, in the heart of
the big city of Driftwood, Texas) has been experimenting
with split batches of homebrew in a variety of ale
styles comparing kegged vs. bottled homebrew for
taste differences. We've compared:

 1) a nut brown ale
 2) classic IPA
 3) czech (read -heavy- saaz) style ale (dry hopped)
 4) an english red bitter
 5) a lighter american style ale (rice solids as adjunct)
 6) an american style bock (but with ale yeast)

These have been extract/specialty malt brews
using primarily dried (EDME) yeast, and hop pellets,
not whole hops, with a range of aromatic hopping rates.
At least one batch utilized Wyeast liquid yeast.

Our experience has been that the kegged beer has been
very good to excellent until compared to the bottled versions
of the same batch. No comparison, bottled wins unanimously
with a crisper, cleaner, fuller taste. We have tried variations on
kegging techniques to eliminate some differences.

Forced CO2 priming and 3/4 cup corn sugar priming (with a 5lb sealing
chanrge of CO2 after purging) produced no discernable differences.

Half full vs. full to the top kegs were compared to eliminate
the effect of a difference in gas space above the liquid, 
again no perceptible differences.

Different CO2 pressure tanks were tried to eliminate the possibility
of that as an effect.

Different stainless steel cornelius kegs have no influence,
all new seals installed in all (a debateable improvement in some minds).

Perplexed at this point, we are wondering if any other
homebrewers have benchmarked the flavor and overall characteristics
of bottled vs. kegged homebrew from the same batch, and perhaps
can share their opinions with us.

I sure enjoy the labor savings of kegging, but at this point
am unwilling to continue given our experiences with the alternative
of bottling.

This experience is in direct opposition to my experience with
micro-brewed ales. If any of you have the chance to compare
Rouge Brewery's New Porter on tap in Ashland, Oregon with a fresh bottle
of the same brew (both excellent porters IMHO), the kegged wins 
hands down, and not due to the age of the bottled version or 
its handling. I'm sure this is also true of many other micro-brewed 
beers. Shiner Bock in Shiner,Tx. is another example (although 
not quite "micro").

Bill Moyer
Driftwood Brewers
Organization: University of Illinois at Chicago
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 15:50:10 CST
From: <U21187@uicvm.uic.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Brewing smells
Distribution: world

In article <1992Nov12.093750.3156@nic.csu.net>, steve@caticsuf.csufresno.edu
(Steve Mitchell) says:

>Am I crazy, or do other homebrewers smell their latest
>batch for days after they brew.  I can smell that lovely
>malt sweetness as I sit at work (not at home), and I know
>it's not on my hands or clothes.

     Even better is sniffing the CO2 as it bubbles through the vaporlock
the first two or three days of fermentation, especially from a dark stout.
Positively intoxicating! Yeast fart: There's nothing like it! :-)

- John
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Subject: Re: Cat2up.. Where?
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean  VA
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 18:54:10 GMT

In article <1992Nov7.153629.1675@novatel.cuc.ab.ca>
 hpeyerl@novatel.cuc.ab.ca (Herb Peyerl) writes:

>Maybe I was dreaming but the other day, I could have sworn I
>saw an announcement for a new-version of Cats Meow II that was
>in patch form... Anyways, the message said something about it
>now being available but didn't say where... I thought, well,
>I'll check on mthvax.cs.miami.edu since that's where most of
>the homebrew stuff ends up...

It would help if you read the intro stuff in the HBD.  The homebrew archives 
are now at 'sierra.stanford.edu'.  No one maintains the stuff at mthvax any 
more, so nothing goes there any more, as far as I know.  The intrepid and 
underappreciated 'aem' moved away from miami.edu.

John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own
Fidonet:  1:109/131  Internet:  jdecarlo@mitre.org
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing