HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: gould@theory.TC.Cornell.EDU (EWD)
Subject: Copper air lines and secondary tanks
Organization: Cornell Theory Center
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 13:15:36 GMT

In article <1992Jul22.071839.3969@mr.med.ge.com> you write:
>josh@Happy-Man.com (Joshua_Putnam) writes:
><stuff deleted>
>: 
>: If you have a tool that gets intermittent use (a wrench, nailer, etc.)
>: you won't need to supply its maximum air consumption continuously, so
>: a tank is an acceptable way to increase capacity.  If you have a tool
><more deleted>
>
>This brings up a question I have.  I have my 5hp (Sanborn, not too bad)
>compressor in my garage, and would like to run air to my barn (50 feet
>away).  Frank Mallory (?) mentioned that 3/4" copper can be used for
>compressed air, is it good up to 130 psi?  Also, I was thinking of 
>using an old Nitrogen H-cylinder (big one) for a resevoir in the barn.  Would
>this be better for instantaneous, high-flow demands, as I think it would?  does
>anyone have any experience hacking something like this together?  I'm a fairly
>competent amatuer plumber, is it worth the effort?

I ran air in my shop with 1/2 copper, works real well for even big sanders.
My HVAC buddy convinced me at the time that 120 would be no problem at all,
but I can't quote the spec (300 lbs hi side AC pressure kind of sticks in
my mind, but I don't know if the copper sees that on a normal system, but
it seems that it would have to--all the way to the evavorator).  Anyway, the
reason we went with copper was its ease of installation and low resistance.
My buddy said the only drawback was dielectric corrosion where you go back
to steel.  We used steel down-runners so we'd have something substantial
to fasten to the beam that we could horse on with pipe wrenches.  Check out
hydraulic hose from an industrial supplier to get you from the compressor
to the stationary system, I don't know what they use in the real world, but
I had a piece laying around and it works great for that section.

A secondary tank would insure maximum whallop for your impact wrench it
it were close to the load.  You can calculate your cycle times for various
loads, I believe each drop of ~15lbs yeilds one volume of the tank.  Likewise
you can calculate the delivery rate of your compressor by timing the
system as it pumps through the pressure interval you're interested in.
So now you can judge how big a secondary tank you'd want for a particular
tool and a particular cycle time.

You want to keep the primary tank small enough so, for instance,
you will have air for the tires by the time you've finished checking the
oil.  All things being equal you'd want the secondary tank close to the
load.  And naturally you'd want to be able to valve-off the secondary
tank. If you have good plumbing you can just leave the system on all the
time, but contacts and pop-offs can stick.

Cheers,

   Eliot

Eliot W. Dudley                       
RD 1, Box 66
Cato, New York   13033                
315 626 2878
edudley@mailbox.syr.edu

>Dave Hinz  
>hinz@picard.med.ge.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: butler@quest.comm.mot.com (Jim Butler)
Subject: Re: Radio Interference and spark plug wires
Reply-To: butler@quest.comm.mot.com (Jim Butler)
Organization: Land Mobile Products Sector, Motorola, Inc.
Distribution: usa
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 1992 23:17:47 GMT


In article <q=wxjq@rpi.edu>, schere@vccsouth26.its.rpi.edu (Edward David Schernau) writes:


>One of the things that people seem to have missed re: this subject
>is the radio interfernece.  I'm not ttoo worried about voltage
>drops or anything.  I'm looking for something that will fill the X-band
>with radio interference for about 1/2 mile around my car.  Also
>the K band, maybe even Ka.



	Good luck!!!



-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jim Butler                                | Internet: butler@Quest.comm.mot.com
Motorola, Inc.                            | FAX:   708-576-3240
Land Mobile Products Sector Research      | Phone: 708-576-5962
Schaumburg, Illinois USA                  |"Believe me, I can't be trusted."
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: billm@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (Bill Miner)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: ++WIDDEST TIRE OF 5.5"wide RIM???++
Date: 28 Jul 92 15:32:12 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO

In talking about rim width vs. tire section Thatch writes:

   > Anyway, if your goal is to look mean, the bigger tires will do it, if your
> goal is to kick someone's ass, don't be deceived.


This advice from a man who has not raced in two? years, has been driving a boat
(literally), and who recently bought a (can you believe it?) shaft drive
motorcycle.  Now that I've impugned his believability, I must say I agree 
completely.  A hopelessly simplistic (it addresses only part of the problem and
somewhat incorretly at that) explanation is that as tire section increases 
with rim width constant you go from a load rectangle to a load triangle.  Which
is more stable?  But, then again, what do I know (see questions in sig.)?

   car load   car load
     V  V         V
     |  |  vs.   / \ 
     ^^^^       ^^^^^
reaction of bearing surface


Bill Miner (billm@hpmtlbm.lvld.hp.com)

--------------------------------------------------------------------
|  PP-ASEL (instrument student)  |  Hewlett-Packard Company        |
|  CAP (1LT, Safety Officer)     |  Manufacturing Test Division    |
|  GS550T (DoD # 0471)           |  815 14th St. SW                |
|                                |  Loveland, CO  80537            |
|                                |  (303) 679-2786                 |
--------------------------------------------------------------------

Is this midlife crisis or midcrisis life?
Why must our daughters go to expensive private universities?
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ghg@en.ecn.purdue.edu (George Goble)
Subject: Re: Charging A/C with Freon
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 92 11:37:36 GMT

In article <1992Jul28.061812.12375@mr.med.ge.com> hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987) writes:
>jbm@eos.arc.nasa.gov (Jeffrey Mulligan) writes:
>: ghg@en.ecn.purdue.edu (George Goble) writes:
>: 
>: >The largest single source of leaking CFCs are automobile A/C units.
>: >The world's 225 million A/C cars each leak around 1/2 lb of CFC-12
>: >each year on the average.  The industrial solvent and foam blowing
>: >sectors have pretty much cleaned up their act by now.
>: >--ghg
>: 
>: What about large air-conditioned buildings?
>: Are service personnel now required to recover all freon when servicing
>: these large units as they are with auto units?
>: 
>As I understand it, stationary units are not nearly as guilty as those in
>cars, possibly because they operate under better conditions, e.g. MUCH less
>vibration, more constant temperature-band, and so-on.  Seals don't deteriorate
>as badly in stationary units.  
>
>One complaint....I know of no DECENT replacement for Freon when troubleshooting
>thermal electrical problems...anybody?
>
I assume you mean the cans of "freeze mist"?  Many of those now use R-22
for the interim.  R-22 is 0.05 the ozone depletion of R-12.  R-134a,
the refrigerant for the new cars (zero ozone depletion) is currently
$9/lb wholesale, so it should soon be in the freeze mist cans.  One does
not have to worry about oil compatibility and miscibility when using it
to freeze electronics
--ghg
From: simmon@eeel.nist.gov (Eric Simmon)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: 4wd and the Bronco II
Date: 21 Jul 92 14:45:39 GMT

I just wanted to thank everyone who replied to my post 
asking for info on the Bronco II.

THANKS!

Eric Simmon
simmon@eeel.nist.gov
From: nall@sun8.scri.fsu.edu (John Nall)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Timing belt replacement in a Sentra
Date: 22 Jul 92 17:58:22 GMT
Reply-To: nall@sun8.scri.fsu.edu (John Nall)
Organization: SCRI, Florida State University

In article <eur.711812403@dutncp8> eur@dutncp2.tn.tudelft.nl (Eur van Andel) writes:
>In <1992Jul20.183632.12829@EE.Stanford.EDU> mack@isl.Stanford.EDU (mack) writes:
>
>>I need some net.advice for replacing the timing belt on my Nissan
>>Sentra 85. The original belt worked for 102K miles before it gave in,
>>and the car died on me last Friday. I had it towed home (God bless

   [ ... stuff deleted to save bandwidth ... ]

>Buy a new engine. If your timing belt came off while the engine was revving,
>it is gone. Broken and bent valves, cracked pistons and a damaged head. :-(

  Well, don't buy a new engine before getting the old one checked
  out :-)  You may have lucked out.  But Eur is more than likely
  correct - a busted timing belt while driving at 60 MPH or so is
  more than likely gonna cause a lot of internal damage.

  Although you don't particularly need to be flamed on top of everything
  else, I gotta tell you that saving about $125 on getting the timing
  belt replaced (lot less if you do it yourself) at 50,000 miles or
  so is a pretty risky saving.  102K miles on the old belt is, IMHO,
  just *asking* for trouble!!


John
--
John W. Nall              | Supercomputer Computations Research Institute
nall@mailer.scri.fsu.edu  | Florida State University, Tallahassee, FL 32306
  Stephen King, bah!   The best horror story ever written is "Dance of the Dwarfs" 
     by Geoffrey Household.  Probably you never heard of it, though :-(
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:10326 rec.autos.vw:4409
From: myjak@titan.ksc.nasa.gov (Michael D. Myjak)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Cleaning injectors
Date: 29 Jul 92 09:09:53 EST
Organization: NASA, Kennedy Space Center

> 
> I believe the '79 VW would have used Bosch's CIS injection system, with the
> metering being controlled mechanically by a deflected plate in the
> airsteam.  If this is the case, cleaning would involve forcing the solvent
> through the injectors at pressure, and little more.  

yes, for CIS systems this is indeed true. It takes about 30-35psi to
force feed these injectors.

> One thing to
> pay special attention to is the spray pattern.  If it's clean and the
> pattern is still crappy, E-mail me & I can send you some injectors. 

If I remember correctly, these injectors have a mechanical
aspirator... its kind of like a 3-tooth pinion gear in a 4-tooth slot.
Input gasoline pressure forces the pinion to spin which in turn forces
the spray in to a conical shape. If the teeth are worn, or gunked up,
or both, the mal-formed spray pattern is indeed the indicator.

- Michael D. Myjak			
  Senior Technical Specialist, Systems Analyst
  McDonnell Douglas Space Systems Company - KSC
  MYJAK@TITAN.KSC.NASA.GOV

Fea'ture N.  Distinction; Characteristic; Perculiarity (!)
             A bug with documentation.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: miata conversion
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 92 07:44:09 GMT

If Mazda had put the RX-7 engine in the Miata, I might own one by now!


--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - you get what you pay for; you pay (and pay, and pay) for what you get.
hinz@picard.med.ge.com
From: stover@aslws01.asl.dl.nec.com (Jim Stover)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: 87 Sable Fuel Pump Makes Noise
Summary: Fuel pump has started making noise
Keywords: Sable, Fuel Pump, Noise
Date: 31 Jul 92 18:28:24 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: NEC America, Inc. Irving, Texas

I have an 87 Mercury Sable with 3.0L V6 with 65,000 miles.
A couple of weeks ago the fuel pump started making
a loud humming noise. It is nearly constant at all speeds.
I have three theories:

1.	The pump is going bad and needs replacing.
2.	The fuel filter needs replacing.
3.	Something has come loose such as a bracket,
	insulation, etc.

Does anyone know what causes this and how to fix it?

Also, the paint on the hood (but no where else) is starting
to look like it was buffed with steel wool. When you look
at an angle you can see large areas running front to back
that look bad.

Any ideas or suggests?

Thanks

James T. Stover
stover@asl.dl.nec.com

-- 
James T. Stover
stover@asl.dl.nec.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: eliot@chutney.rtp.dg.com (Topher Eliot)
Subject: Voyager xmissions:  good?  bad?
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 92 20:16:38 GMT
Distribution: usa
Reply-To: eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com
Organization: Data General Corporation, Research Triangle Park, NC

I'm ready to buy a used Grand Voyager or Grand Caravan.  A while back there
was a writeup in Consumer Reports about problems with the overdrive xmission
that they first started putting in these beasts, I believe in 89.  Does
anyone know when, if ever, Chrysler fixed the problem in the units being
manufactured?  How can I tell if the one I'm looking at is a potential lemon?
Is there a single standard fix, or was it a collection of problems?  Blah,
blah, you get the idea.

-- 
Topher Eliot             Data General DG/UX Systems Administration Development
(919) 248-6371      eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com       {backbone}!mcnc!rti!dg-rtp!eliot
Obviously, I speak for myself, not for DG.
misc.consumers.house archivist.  Send mail to house-archive@dg-rtp.dg.com
"Daddy, did you know that super banana squash is a vampire?  And he drinks
blood from cactuses?"  -- Tommy, age 3.
From: morris@mksol.dseg.ti.com (jerry a morris)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: fun pranks
Date: 28 Jul 92 21:39:24 GMT
Followup-To: fun pranks
Organization: Texas Instruments

A girl told me this one but i havent tried it yet.

She said she lived in the country and at night she used to wrap 
sirranwrap(sp?) between 2 sign posts across a highway.
she said that a car comming down the road would see the reflection
of his own head light and stop because he thought it was oncoming
traffic.

could be dangerous if he swerved to miss it???
From: ghg@en.ecn.purdue.edu (George Goble)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Charging A/C with Freon
Date: 25 Jul 92 14:21:49 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network

In article <1992Jul20.153331.24083@bnr.ca> Peon w/o Email priv (Eric Youngblood) writes:
>In article <22445@oasys.dt.navy.mil>, tobias@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Steve Tobias) writes:
>|> 
>|>     My Caravan's air conditioning unit is in need of a charge (low
>|> on Freon as evidenced by lots of bubbles in sight glass). I've never
>|> done this before, but noticed that the local parts store (Trak Auto)
>|> sells kits for that purpose. It seems easy if the directions are any
>|> indication. Any of you have any tips and/or advice pro or con regarding
>|> doing it myself?  BTW, for those of you interested, there was a notice
>|> at Trak Auto that a new Federal law which takes effect Nov. 15, 1992
>|> will make it illegal to buy small cans of Freon. Only 20 lb and larger
>|> sizes will be sold (for professional installers) effective that date.
>|> I guess too many do-it-yourselfers were leaking Freon and screwing up
>|> the ozone layer.
>|> 					     Steve
>
>You need to determine the cause of the low charge condition. Probably a leak
>somewhere in the system. It should be repaired before putting more freon into
>the system which will leak out again. This is one of the reasons the new Fed
>law has become reality. As far as the do-it-yourselfers screwing up the ozone
>layer this is not accurate as automotive AC systems only account for a small
>percentage to total CFC emissions. The largest contributors are by far the
>industrial applications to manufacturing. However, in the grand scheme of things

The largest single source of leaking CFCs are automobile A/C units.
The world's 225 million A/C cars each leak around 1/2 lb of CFC-12
each year on the average.  The industrial solvent and foam blowing
sectors have pretty much cleaned up their act by now.
--ghg
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: gheim@eng.auburn.edu (Greg Heim)
Subject: Re: Clutch replacement
Organization: Alabama Department of Tourism (NOT!)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 17:56:36 GMT

In article <BrrLyp.nr@xrtll.uucp> rsnider@xrtll.uucp (Richard Snider) writes:
>In article <DENNIS.92Jul17134503@mr2.ece.cmu.edu> dennis@mr2.ece.cmu.edu (Dennis J. Ciplickas) writes:
>>
>>Hi y'all.  Its seems that my 75 Mercedes 240D (rear wheel drive) will
>>need a new clutch soon.  I say this because the "active" region of the
>>
>
>NEVER... never tighten your transmission bolts to the bellhousing 
>until you get the splines aligned and the shaft _FULLLY_ inserted
>into the clutch.  If you do just reaf them down, you will at best
>strip them, at worst break the bellhousing.


Good point.

That reminds me of a trick I like to use lining up the input shaft splines.  
Get a couple long, high-quality bolts the same diameter as the
ones that bolt the transmission to the bell-housing, but several inches long.
Cut the heads off the bolts and screw them into the top two holes in the 
bell-housing.  The bolts need to be long enough to support the transmission
before the splines have matched up.  This prevents busting any veins in
your forehead or dropping the transmission on your face.  Once you get 
the splines in, put in a couple other bolts and replace the homemade studs
and voila!  (I suppose you could use some all-thread or something similar,
it's _your_ head ;-)


>It depends on your style, but if you want to save the bucks, you 
>can probabbly get away with just a regular floor jack to prop the 
>transmission into place when you are taking it apart/putting it 
>together.


I still swear by renting a transmission jack, but if you use the trick
above you may still be in good shape with a regular floor jack.


Greg 



                    /~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~\                A/~~\A
                    |    WELCOME TO ALABAMA    |               ((O  O))___    
                    |  Set  your  watch  back  |                 \  /     ~~~
                    |  an hour . . . set your  |  #              (--)\    #  
Greg Heim    --x---x|  calendar back 30 years  |--#---x---x---x---x---x---#---
USENET Junkie       \--------------------------/  #                    \  i_
gheim@eng.auburn.edu --| |--#---x---x---x-| |--x--#---x---x---x---x---x---#---
Sig. Copyright(c) 1991 | | )#(//  \\)(/  \| |(// \#(//  \|/   \\)|(/   \|)#(/
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
From: josh@Happy-Man.com (Joshua_Putnam)
Subject: Re: Horsepower is a meaningless advertising term.
Reply-To: Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com
Organization: Happy Man Corp., Vashon Island, WA 98070-7399
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 19:53:34 GMT

In <1992Jul22.071839.3969@mr.med.ge.com> hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987) writes:

>I have my 5hp (Sanborn, not too bad)
>compressor in my garage, and would like to run air to my barn (50 feet
>away).  Frank Mallory (?) mentioned that 3/4" copper can be used for
>compressed air, is it good up to 130 psi?  

I'm pretty sure it's safe for that.  There's also plastic pipe that
can handle these pressures, and plain old iron/steel water pipe works
well too.  The main concern in all three is getting your joints strong
and tight.  

Remember that a ruptured air line is more dangerous than a ruptured
water line at the same pressure, since air expands but water doesn't.

Personally, I used old galvanized water pipe for this sort of setup,
just because I had it around.  Now I have a portable compressor on
wheels instead.

>Also, I was thinking of 
>using an old Nitrogen H-cylinder (big one) for a resevoir in the barn.  Would
>this be better for instantaneous, high-flow demands, as I think it would?  

Anything that provides an air reservoir close to the tool will smooth
out the flow.  I've even seen small (1 gallon?) tanks put in-line a
few feet before the tool to help compensate for a long run of rubber
hose, since the hose has a significant resistance, especially in
smaller diameters.

>does
>anyone have any experience hacking something like this together?  I'm a fairly
>competent amatuer plumber, is it worth the effort?

Sounds like a great idea.  I've often thought how convenient it would
have been to put air lines in when remodeling the house -- air on tap
in the utility room, the kitchen, etc.

-- 
 Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com    Happy Man Corp.  206/463-9399 x102
 4410 SW Pt. Robinson Rd., Vashon Island, WA  98070-7399  fax x108
 We publish SOLID VALUE for the intelligent investor.  NextMail OK
Info free; sample $20: Send POSTAL addr: Solid-Value@happy-man.com
From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Cleaning injectors
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 08:20:21 -0500

 JN> In article <1992Jul29.173824.150349@lexmark.com> mollett@lexmark.com 
 JN> (Vic Mollett) writes:
 JN> >Has anyone ever cleaned diesel injectors??  Is it the same as cleaning 
 JN> gasoline
 JN> >injectors??  My 240D (which has Bosch mechanical fuel injection, but I 
 JN> don't
 JN> >know what series) could use some cleaning I think (rougher than normal 
 JN> idle
 JN> >sometimes).  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
 JN> 
 JN>   I'm not particularly qualified to make suggestions, but what I CAN do 
 JN> is
 JN>   pass on some information which I received from a Mercedes mechanic.  
 JN> 
 JN>   Anyway, during the course of the tutoring session, I mentioned that I 
 JN> had
 JN>   heard people say that it would be a good idea just on general 
 JN> principals
 JN>   to get the injectors cleaned on a car this old (1977 model).  He said 
 JN> no,
 JN>   that unless there was a problem (usually characterized by hard 
 JN> starting)
 JN>   that the best thing would be to add some Redline to the fuel every 
 JN> now and
 JN>   then, and that would keep the injectors cleaned out pretty well.

That is correct. Diesel fuel is a pretty good solvent; better than gasoline,
apparently. You need to pay more attention to the fuel filter in your Diesel
engine, however. Most cases of bad idling can be cured by adjusting the valves.
From: wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Burned out starter or solenoid?
Date: 27 Jul 92 15:18:32 GMT
Organization: Hewlett Packard - Boise, ID

I would guess that your starter has a short in the windings since the
dome light goes dead (lots of current being grounded out).  Good luck!

Wes Fujii

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Wes Fujii               *           JAPANESE BUSINESS MOTTO           *
* Boise, Idaho            *        You can buy anything you want        *
* wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com *             with a lot of money             *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech