HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: Drag racer built on a truck frame?
Date: Fri, 08 Jan 93 23:34:57 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Friday, Jan 08 18:34:54
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In article <y7br-#n@dixie.com> you write:
>> -> now as far as power. what would be the cost of beefing up that block,
>> -> why not go to a bone yard and get a 460. you want all of the inches
>> 
>>  Since he already has a 429, converting it to a 460 would be simple:
>> the crank and pistons are the only differences.
>
>  I would recommend trying to find a set of 429CJ (or equiv) rods too, since
>  they are they same length, same diameter holes, and literally twice as
>  beefy.
>
>  Neal Howard
>
>----------
>Posted by: Neal Howard <emory!gatech!cmptrc.lonestar.org!neal>

I thought that all 429/460 rods were forged and the main difference
between hi and lo perf was that the seat for the rod bolt head was
broached on the lo perf version and spot faced for the "good" ones.    

Am I missing something? Is there something else that separates the good
from the bad and the ugly?

----------
Posted by: emory!sierra.com!vcook (Victor Cook)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: Buick EightInnaRow
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 93 23:43:02 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Tuesday, Jan 12 18:42:57
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Speaking of Tex Smith, has anyone heard anything more on when his Driggs
Idaho publishing company is going to recover and make good on the advanced
purchases they sought last Dec91/jan92 in order from going under?
Mike Brattland

----------
Posted by: emory!nprdc.navy.mil!brattlan (CDR Michael Brattland)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
Subject: Re: Gasoline, Octane boosters, etc.
Date: 8 Jan 93 01:01:31 GMT
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Thursday, Jan 07 20:01:23
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> And from Rich Lassitter's article in the GS Xtra ... how to mix your own brew:
> 

Has anyone besides myself ever tried benzene as an alternative fuel or fuel  
additive? I think it's got a R+M/2 rating of approx 106 and a couple of 
years ago it was about 2 bucks/gal. I tried .5 gal mixed with 1.5 gal 
92 octane Texaco super unleaded in my Harley last summer when it was so
hot outside that the motor was clattering too much on straight gas. The 
benzene/gas mix ran great.... no more detonation and great power output.
I think the benzene is a little more friendly to the rubber parts in the fuel
system than xylene or toulene but it carries a nasty warning that it has been
known to cause leukemia in humans upon prolonged repeated skin contact, vapor
breathing, or taking it internally. 

[Benzine is about the highest octane common fuel but it is 
REAL hard to get in quantity.  The Econazi Thought Police will be on
you in a heartbeat.  I called around last year just exploring what
was available.  The answer I got can be paraphrased as "don't even
think about it."  Also, there is an EPA legal limit for benzine 
concentration in gas (5% I think).  No problem for racing but it might
be a problem on the road.  While the thought police probably won't come
'round sniffing your gas tank, if you were to have a wreck and get sued
and the other side found out about your using benzine in your fuel,
you might have a nasty suit on your hands.  JGD]
----------
Posted by: Neal Howard <emory!gatech!cmptrc.lonestar.org!neal>
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Try this one on for size
Date: Mon, 04 Jan 93 23:26:17 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Monday, Jan 04 18:26:12
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This is the strangest one I've ever seen.  I was over at a friend's
house today who had shoehorned a 350 chevy motor into an S-10 blazer.
He was trying to get it to idle smoothly when it started rattling.
Pulled the head and saw that an entire cylinder was missing!  It had 
apparently broken off at the deck and disintegrated.  The piston - or 
what was left of it - was just kinda flapping around.  Even stranger is
the fact that the engine has never seen a load above idle.

John
-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC               |Interested in high performance mobility?  
Performance Engineering Magazine(TM) | Interested in high tech and computers? 
Marietta, Ga                         | Send ur snail-mail address to 
jgd@dixie.com                        | perform@dixie.com for a free sample mag
Need Usenet public Access in Atlanta?  Write Me for info on Dixie.com.

----------
Posted by: jgd (John De Armond)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: Watts linkage, etc.
Date: Fri, 08 Jan 93 21:57:02 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Friday, Jan 08 16:56:59
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>  Just out of curiosity, why not a Panhard setup? A bit simpler, and the
> Watts looks like similar, if not more, weight and complexity. I've seen
> add-yer-own Panhard kits in either the Jeg's or Summit catalog (can't
> remember which) for fairly cheap (although probably overpriced for two
> stampings, some rod ends, a tube steel length and instructions).
>
> ----------
> Posted by: emory!mlb.semi.harris.com!jws (James W. Swonger)
>

Since I keep getting asked this...

This is for a racing application, and I'm looking for every possible
edge.

-Bob



-- 
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| Bob Wise          | INET:622-1322 | MCIMail:rmwise | Pager:719-577-1928 |
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----------
Posted by: emory!mcigate.apdev.mci.com!rmwise (Bob_Wise)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: fuel delivery
Date: Fri, 08 Jan 93 20:20:13 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Friday, Jan 08 15:20:09
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-> 476 cu in * (8000 / 2) = 1,904,000 cu inches per minute or
-> 114,240,000 cu in/ hour.  Converting this to mass using the air
-> density conversion factor 0.00129317 grams/cc and 16.3871 cc per cu
-> inch, that works out to
-> 114E6 cu in * 16.3871 ci/cc * 0.00129317 = 2421170 grams/hr or 5537
-> lbs/hr.
-> Fuel to go with this at a ratio of 11:1 by mass works out to
-> 485.25 lbs/hour.
-> 364 gal/hr., 6 gal/min

 Uh...  did I just miss the boat here?

 Let's say you have .100" jets screwed into all four corners.  Fuel flow
is dependent on pressure drop through the venturi, since fuel pressure
is close to zero (that's what the float is for).   Now, even assuming
all the restriction is at the jet and the innards of the carb can handle
that much fuel flow, you figure it's going to be able to suck that much
gas?  Two to three minutes to empty an entire TANK of gas?

 <excuse me... I seem to have this bucket stuck to my foot>
                      
[I did say it was worst case.  You're probably not going to run 11:1
in practice and you're not going to achieve a VE of 1.  And that
motor probably won't run 8000 rpm.  Nontheless, feeding an almost
500 cu in motor takes a lot of gas.  Please do check my math 'cuz
I did that one by hand since my HP95 was in the car and I'm known
for fumble-fingering a calculator.  As kinda a cross check, consider
the mouse motors in the NASCAR cars.  As I recall, someone claimed
they get about 4 mpg.  At 200 mph, that works out to 0.833 gallons
per minute. That's with a tiny motor, a tiny carb and presumably
with a LOT of work to achieve that kind of mileage.  Still, someone
please check my math.  JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re:  Try this one on for size
Date: Tue, 05 Jan 93 19:29:11 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Tuesday, Jan 05 14:29:07
X-Sequence: 3181
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Sounds kinda like a 360 we put into my friends '74 AMX.  He blew the original
engine, so we bought a nice running Matador wagon with a 360 and swapped in
the engine.  Ran awesome, annihilated the tires forever.  Then, as we were
returning to his house, it stareaking this weird rapping noise, but was still
running great (and burning up the tires :-) )  So we pulled it into the
garage and proceded to pull the valve covers.  We found a dropped valve in
the #3 cylinder, so we pulled the head.  The rapping turned out to be the
wrist pin flying around on the end of the connecting rod tagging the cylinder
wall.  Destroyed the head, but the rest of the engine was salvageable.  Kinda
funny to pull the head and see a big hole where a piston should be, especially
the way the engine was running...

-- Steve


   Steven T McClure     '84 GPZ 750 Turbo pilot          stm0@gte.com
GTE Government Systems         DoD #0425              
  Needham, Ma. 02194            /*  Insert standard disclaimer here. */
Beta software: 'beta than nothing, and that's usually all it is...

----------
Posted by: emory!gte.com!stm0 (Steven McClure)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: O2 sensor failures
Date: Thu, 07 Jan 93 02:09:44 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Wednesday, Jan 06 21:09:40
X-Sequence: 3218
X-Gifs-To: met@sunset.cse.nau.edu
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I've had two O2 sensors bite the dust within 30K miles. I really believe
that both failures occured after giving the fuel tank a good slug of
Chevron (Techron) injector cleaner. I've always believed that this
stuff is safe for O2 sensors, but in both  cases I saw the output from
the sensor get very sluggish on my cyberdyne air/fuel gauge. Once the
sluggishness started, the "check-engine" light made an announcement
very soon there after. Now that I'm on my third sensor, I'm very reluctant
to put any more injector cleaner in the tank... I'm starting to believe 
that the only "safe" way to clean injectors is to pull them out and 
pump your own solvent/cleaner thru them - off the motor.
Has anyone else had a similiar experience, or a comment?
(BTW - I always run what I think is good clean 93 octane Exxon unleaded)

Greg Granville
gag@arlvax.psu.edu

----------
Posted by: GREG GRANVILLE <emory!arlvax.psu.edu!GAG>
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: iron to aluminum glide conversion
Date: Wed, 06 Jan 93 21:18:30 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Wednesday, Jan 06 16:18:27
X-Sequence: 3205
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-> Seriously, use a starter thats correct for the engine, along with a
-> flywheel/bellhousing of matching size. For the 350, better make it
-> the HD starter, if you want it to start in the summer :-)

 Aaahhh... I can't use the bellhousing from the 350.  It doesn't have
the rear motor mount pads.

 The car was available with a 283; someone said the bolt holes were
different.  I guess I could get a '60 283 starter nose and drill and tap
the correct holes in the '87 block.
                                                                           

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Watts Link
Date: Thu, 07 Jan 93 03:03:27 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Wednesday, Jan 06 22:03:20
X-Sequence: 3224
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I need to build a watts link for my '88 Mustang GT to run SCCA
American Sedan.

Anyone know of any kits or literature (or fabrication shops?) that
would assist me in this?

I assume that the the center of the pivot on the diff housing should
be as low as possible, to lower the roll center.  Is this a correct
assumption?

Also, the best way to connect the center pivot to a Ford 8.8 rear
is not immediately obvious to me.

Anyone know of a good supply house where I could be the large
bearing I would need to mount the link pivot?

Thanks,

-Bob Wise



-- 
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| Bob Wise          | INET:622-1322 | MCIMail:rmwise | Pager:719-577-1928 |
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----------
Posted by: emory!mcigate.apdev.mci.com!rmwise (Bob_Wise)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: RE: 351C trivia...
Date: Fri, 08 Jan 93 20:11:20 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Friday, Jan 08 15:11:16
X-Sequence: 3281
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-> = 0.235.  Guestimated wall thickness is 0.12", but only at that one
-> point. I can't see any non-destructive way of measuring the wall
-> thickness, unless something like ultrasound would work (moot point:
-> I don't have access to anything like that).  Any idea of how valid my
-> measurement is, with respect to the rest of the bore?

 You can fabricate some calipers out of music wire.  That's about the
only way.  Yunick claims the ultrasonic checkers are very inaccurate,
but he seems to have a phobia against anything that uses electricity.

[I'll second that motion.  Back when I was nuking, I was a certified
non-destructive testing engineer with an ultrasonic inspection (among
others) endorsement.  Ultrasonic inspection is about as accurate as
one can do without cutting a chunk out and mikeing it.  On the scope-
type units that display the echo on a CRT in addition to a readout,
one can see the graineness of the casting.  Since the casting surface
grains are at least 0.010, more precision does not really buy you 
much.  I agree with your assessment of the Smoke :-)JGD]

-> I'll look, next time I'm at Norwalk.  There's a guy that runs a '74
-> or so Capri pretty regularly.  He dropped the V6 - for a Cammer!
-> Can't get to anywhere near the potential of the engine - brakes
-> aren't good enough!

  Oh, that's no problem.  I'm something of an expert in early Capri
engine swaps - even did a 455 Olds in one once.  He needs a set of the
British Capri brake rotors, which he can order from Ford UK or out of
practically any Brit car magazine (they usually refer to them as the
"uprated" rotors).  They're vented.  He'll need the matching calipers,
or he can just call Tilton and order fancy aluminum replacements -
Tilton's are damn near exact clones of the Teves opposed-piston units
used on the Capri. Or if he doesn't want to order the Brit rotors, he
can get the proper hats and rotors from Tilton too.

 The rear brakes should be a cinch - just get the best ones that fit
to the 12-bolt, Dana, or 9-inch that he swapped under there.

 For true badass brakes, the works Capris ran 17 inch wheels with 14
inch *rotors*, but that was wierd Sachs stuff.  Zakspeed-Roush used to
stock parts for that.
                                       

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: 305 torque
Date: Thu, 07 Jan 93 02:27:03 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Wednesday, Jan 06 21:27:00
X-Sequence: 3220
X-Gifs-To: met@sunset.cse.nau.edu
X-Gifs-From: ftp.nau.edu



>> This portion of Dave's post got me thinking...  I have a 305 that I
>> would like to build with one goal in mind.   *TORQUE* and lots of it.
>> I need to keep the displacement down as much as possible to keep the
>> engine fuel stingy.  The operating range would be from idle to about
>> 4000 rpm tops.

> How about a 329 the hard way?  3.73 305 bore, and a 3.75 stroke 400
>crank.  You'd have to have the mains cut to the standard large journal
>diameter, but they do that all the time for 383s.  At least one company
>is making their own 383 cranks now too.

That should do it.  You'ld probably have to relieve some metal about the base of 
the cylinder bores so that the longer throw crank doesn't whack them.  At least 
you have to do this for 350-383 conversions.

I don't remember what kind of camshaft you have or budget.  You could install a 
high lift/duration hydraulic roller cam with 1.6 ratio rocker arms.  This should 
allow over .500 inch lifts with a mild duration cam.  If you have a computer run 
car, you might need to swap your ECM to allow higher fuel/air ratios.  This may 
give you the torque you need for less money.  Any reputable cam maker (e.g. 
Competition Cams) can take your requirements and translate them into a package 
with correct springs, etc.  I'ld be curious about which combination would be 
most cost/effective in your situation.

Regards,
Eric
   
 


----------
Posted by: ERIC WEBB 919-541-7896 <emory!epamail.epa.gov!WEBB.ERIC>
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Octanes and MTBE
Date: Thu, 07 Jan 93 20:01:13 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Thursday, Jan 07 15:01:09
X-Sequence: 3233
X-Gifs-To: met@sunset.cse.nau.edu
X-Gifs-From: ftp.nau.edu

As part of the informative discussion about octanes:

[If you'd retuned your engine to take advantage of the MTBE blended fuel
it would have made more power than the ethanol blend....To anyone who 
understands fuels in a performance context, this development is grand.  
MTBE blended fuel is good out of the pump...JGD]

Given the increasing use of MTBE blended fuel at the pump, can we expect a
beginners' "How to retune your engine to take advantage..." article in 
Performance Engineering?
---------------
Steve Renwick
RENWICK@PYVAX.PHYSICS.NCSU.EDU

[Probably if I can get someone to write it :-)  Calculating the compensation
is not difficult. Just balance the chemical equation for the new fuel
and their proportions and then compare to the old.  I'd guess looking
at the formulas that about 8% more by weight would be a good starting
place.  Maybe I'll get time to type the calcs in and post 'em.  I'm up to 
my ears in Alligators right now just trying to handle all the other 
topics I'm supposed to write about and put the mag together and sell ads.  
BTW, anyone out there interested in selling advertising part time?  I'm
not big enough to hire anyone full time nor a rep and I HATE selling.
JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!pyvax.physics.ncsu.edu!RENWICK
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: iron to aluminum glide conversion
Date: Tue, 05 Jan 93 09:39:44 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Tuesday, Jan 05 04:39:37
X-Sequence: 3176
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X-Gifs-From: ftp.nau.edu


hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:


>-> Next problem is changing to the new (2 bolts UP) starter.

> Uh.  That brings me to another question.  My '60 Chev has the 235 six
>and three speed manual.  I want to drop in either a 262 or 350
>(depending on which one I finish first).  I know I have to get the front
>mount tabs, but I'd forgotten the starter.  Will there be any problem
>with that?  
Yup

Or does it just bolt to the bellhousing like it did before?
>              

Nope
Seriously, use a starter thats correct for the engine, along with a
flywheel/bellhousing of matching size. For the 350, better make it the 
HD starter, if you want it to start in the summer :-)

JD


>----------
>Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)

----------
Posted by: emory!fraser.sfu.ca!jimd (Jim Davies)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Rollin, Rollin, Rollin
Date: Fri, 08 Jan 93 09:03:57 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Friday, Jan 08 04:03:43
X-Sequence: 3274
X-Gifs-To: met@sunset.cse.nau.edu
X-Gifs-From: ftp.nau.edu


-> spring pockets.  I put this cam into a late model L98 Vette modified
-> to flow air much better than stock.  With the new chip and cam, the
-> car produced at least as much torque and power as the LT1.

 Now try an experiment:  pull the aftermarket chip and put the original
chip back in.  Once the block learn reprograms the data cells, I bet you
won't be able to tell any difference at all between it and the fancy
chip.

 A major name chip maker borrowed my friend Jay's '90 Corvette to do
some development worth with.  Rented a drag strip and everything.  With
back to back runs there was NO difference.  Examining the data output
with the GM Tech 1 analyzer later, we found no difference in the final
spark or fuel curves, though the corrections were different.  Basically,
the aftermarket chip slammed the spark full advance and started richer
than stock, and then the knock sensor and O2 sensor brought things right
back to the same identical curve as the stock chip.

 At WFO the O2 sensor is ignored as the Tuned Port goes to open loop.
An aftermarket chip could help there if you're experiencing leanout, but
you'd probably be better off adding a 9th injector behind the throttle
body and play with the mixture yourself.
                                                                                                      

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod