HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: cooper@endeavor.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM (Bob Cooper x7429)
Subject: Re: Painting Garage Floor
Organization: Your Organization Here
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 92 17:24:05 GMT

In article <1519@ceylon.gte.com>, CMF0@bunny.gte.com (Cristina Ferla) writes:
|> In article <1992Aug25.174501.9993@ncrcae.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM> 
|> cooper@endeavor.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM (Bob Cooper x7429) writes:
|> > I just bought a 15 year old house with a 2 car garage.  I want to paint
|> > the floor with (I guess) an glossy epoxy paint.  Any suggestions or
|> > problems?  Any particular product that you are aware of?  I want the 
|> floor to look like what you see at sears autocenter -- slick as glass and 
|> you can wipe oil up with no problem
|> 
|> I would ask at the Sears autocenter what paint THEY use.  Sears used to
|> carry an excellent epoxy floor paint, but I was unable to get it this time
|> around (I have painted my garage floor twice in 14 years, this was going to
|> be the third time), so I had to special order some Benjamin Moore epoxy 
|> paint which the catalog specified was particularly prepared for garage floors.
|> 
|> BIG MISTAKE!!  It looked great when finished, but the car tires have been 
|> picking it up.  I am about to receive a free gallon from the manufacturer to repaint the floor, but there was never a problem like it with the Sears paint.
Cristina thanks for the reply.  

I haven't asked Sears auto yet -- that's in my queue.  I kind of doubted that the guys in the shop would know.

Regarding your problem of the paint coming up.  Could this be a surface preparation problem.  I was thinking about scoring (sp?) the surface of the floor with a dilution of muratic acid first.  Any thoughts?

|> 
|> I like being able to sweep the floor and even wash the floor in the garage 
|> without major effort or dust from the concrete.
|> 

I know the feeling.

|> Good luck with your painting!

-- 

        -Bob Cooper 
	 Systems Architecture
	 Bob.Cooper@ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM
	 (803) 796-9250
From: ark@alice.att.com (Andrew Koenig)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Best Hardware Store
Date: 29 Aug 92 14:34:25 GMT
Reply-To: ark@alice.UUCP ()
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories, Murray Hill NJ

In article <1992Aug27.171643.1406@informix.com> davek@informix.com (David Kosenko) writes:

> My vote goes to Home Depot.

I haven't bought anything from Home Depot since
I learned that they do drug tests on all their employees.
-- 
				--Andrew Koenig
				  ark@europa.att.com
From: cscon0151@uoft02.utoledo.edu
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Telephone Outlets
Date: 26 Aug 92 13:14:08 EST
Organization: University of Toledo, Computer Services

In article <BtGty6.Gqz@hatch.socal.com>, richg@hatch.socal.com (Rich Greenberg) writes:
> In article <1992Aug23.013031.9219@icd.teradyne.com> ardai@zax.eda.teradyne.com (Michael Ardai) writes:
>>In article <5942@grus.cs.nps.navy.mil> erickson@cs.nps.navy.mil (David Erickson) writes:
>>-Are all cordless phones easy to monitor?  I thought they had built in
>>-scrambling circuitry, which is set according to a small bank of
>>-dip switches.
>>
>>While there are a few cordless phones that actually *scramble* the voice (one
>>in the new Radio Shack catalog comes to mind), most of the 'digital security'
> 
> While these phones are "scrambled", don't consider them to be secure!!
> The scrambling is a simple voice inversion, and unscramblers are
> easily obtained or built.
> -- 
>                 
> Rich Greenberg - N6LRT - 310-649-0238 - richg@hatch.socal.com

Yes, Rich is correct (at least that's what the new RS catalog says.)

DUoFONE ET-499. Cordless phones are great.  But since they transmit over the
airwaves, your private conversations could be monitored.  Now you can enjoy
cordless convenience with voice scrambling for 'added' (italics) privacy
protection - frequency inversion technology makes transmissions bewtween the
handset and base unintelligible..... auto-set security code....

Could any person with knowledge about 'frequency inversion' or 'spread
spectrum technology' explain these 'scrambling' techniques to me via Email?

Thanx!

Brad Steinman
University of Toledo Computer Services
cscon0151@uoft02.utoledo.edu
From: jdt@voodoo.boeing.com (Jim Tomlinson)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Attic insulation $/sq.ft.?
Date: 28 Aug 92 00:12:46 GMT
Reply-To: jdt@voodoo.boeing.com
Distribution: na
Organization: BoGART To You, Buddy


We want to have some insulation blown into the attic of our 1947-
vintage house (all we currently have is a thin layer of the old 'rock
wool').  I'm having a couple of firms out to estimate the job, but I'm
wondering if anyone has any ballpark figure for what this kind of job
should cost per sq. ft. (the acceptable thickness I've heard bandied
about is ~12")?  If it makes any difference, there's one small access
hole into the attic, and it's a small house (~930 sq ft).  Thanks much
in advance!
-- 
Jim Tomlinson    BoGART Project    Boeing Computer Services    Bellevue, WA
jdt@voodoo.boeing.com       ...uunet!bcstec!voodoo!jdt        (206)865-6578 
         "Airplanes are cool." - the man on the street in Seattle
From: peterson@ucunix.san.uc.edu (John M. Peterson)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: It looks like carpenter ants...
Date: 28 Aug 92 17:03:32 GMT
Organization: University of Cincinnati



One thing that has been missing from this carpenter ant
thread:  you also have a moisture problem!  Carpenter
ants use wood that has been softened by damp rot.  They
are just as distructive to wood as termites.  If you do
have carpenter ants check very carefully for moisture
problems -- often, the ants will be eliminated if the
moisture problems, and the damaged wood, are corrected.
They don't like to chue on unsoftened wood.


+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
|  peterson@headcheese.daa.uc.edu      	 In real life: John M. Peterson  |
|                                                                        |
|  College of Design Architecture Art & Planning                         |
|  University of Cincinnati           45221-0016           513-556-1207  |
+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Eletric dryer - running but not drying
From: gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston)
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 92 22:21:42 CDT
Organization: Garys' Home for Obsolete Computers

diprosp@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Michael DiProspero) writes:

> I recently purchased a home in which the washer/dryer combo was included
> by the previous homeowner.  Everything was fine for about a month -
> but a couple of days ago when I tried to dry a load of clothes the
> dryer kept on running and running, but never got hot.  The dryer is
> a Kenmore and electric (I forget the model number).  Does anyone have
> any ideas what might be causing this?  Thanks.

Sounds like a bad or failing thermostat that's stuck open, or one of
the 220V fuses is blown. If it's on a breaker, try flipping it off and
back on; if the dryer starts working, replace the breaker. If it's a
blown fuse, replace it.

If it's got 220V at the outlet, check the thermostat first and the 
element second (although the element can sometimes be visually
inspected easily). If you're comfortable with taking things apart,
unplug it and go to it; replacing a thermostat or element should 
be pretty easy and inexpensive.

Gary Heston, at home....
gary@cdthq.uucp
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: tapp@uvphys.phys.uvic.ca (Bob Tapp)
Subject: Re: Adding second story
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.3-4   
Reply-To: tapp@uvphys.phys.uvic.ca
Organization: UVic, Physics & Astronomy, Victoria, BC
Distribution:  world
Date:  2 SEP 92 13:00:21    

In article <1992Sep1.222304.10971@Cadence.COM>,
davidr@rookie.cadence.com (Dave Rich; x6337) writes...
>Has anyone out there added a second story to their house, and
>lived in it during construction. We are thinking of doing this 
>during the winter months. We will have the exterior completed
>by November, but I won't be able to insulate the interior until
>the spring. We are leaving the old attic insulation in the new
>floor. 
> 
>This shouldn't be a problem, right?, It should be the same as if we
>just increased the size of the old attic.

We started our second-storey addition two years ago in October, but had 
to remove the existing ceiling insulation so the carpenters could 
install larger joists alongside the old ceiling joists.

We were fortunate at that time of year to not have much water come in,
but it would have been more of a concern if the insulation had still
been there. 

If you intend to put new plumbing in the attic, I'd recommend installing
stop-and-drain valves on all the water supply lines so you won't have to
worry about the pipes freezing up.

Bob Tapp, University of Victoria
tapp@uvphys.phys.UVic.CA

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: doshay@ursa.arc.nasa.gov (David Doshay)
Subject: Re: questions about MOLDINGS?
Organization: NASA-Ames Biocomputation Center
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 23:56:58 GMT

Carl Baker gave some advice, and I agree with everything except the inside
corners. I would cope. As the wood expands and shrinks, it will look better.
You can buy a tool comprised of lots of long thin rods to get the shape of
the moulding for transfer to the other piece.

David		doshay@soma.arc.nasa.gov

The thought police insist I tell you:
my thoughts, not NASA's
From: tjs4525@hertz.njit.edu (Theodore Stites)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: HELP! Does anyone own a shed?
Date: 1 Sep 92 20:21:59 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: New Jersey Institute of Technology, Newark, N.J.
Originator: tjs4525@hertz.njit.edu


Hello again,

	I posted a request for shed info about 2 weeks ago and since have
received only two replies.  Come on, more than two people on the net must
have had a shed installed. Please respond if you had a shed put up in the
last 5 years. I am interested in an 8'X8' or 8'X10' or 10'X10'(any suggestions)

Info wanted:   what materials to use or avoid(galv steel,vinyl,wood),
               foundation - what kind is good(concrete or stone or patio block),
               build my own out of 2x4's and plywood or prefab,
               durability and water resistance,
               costs for different types,
               has anyone had one built for them by Sears,Rickel, or HomeDepot.


Any and all help would be graciously accepted.

                                 Ted Stites
						tstites@attmail.com
                                                tjs4525@hertz.njit.edu
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: butteris@dingus.ssc.gov
Subject: Re: Least Toxic Flea Control
Organization: Superconducting Super Collider Laboratory
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 13:31:20 GMT

Jon von Zelowitz writes
> 
> In honor of flea season (and a thread that I haven't seen in at least 2
> days--wow!) here's a summary of tips from an article a friend clipped on
> "Least Toxic Flea Control". Some of these have been mentioned already,  
but

<text deleted>

Have you considered using a perennial herb called "fleabane" (Inula  
dysenterica)? It is definitely non-toxic. 
Try Nichols Garden Nursery 
1190 North Pacific Highway  
Albany, Oregon  97321-4598. 

A seed packet is only $0.95 :+)  but the plant needs to be grown. :+(

Jamey B @ SSC.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: edwards@world.std.com (Jonathan Edwards)
Subject: Fireplace design
Organization: IntraNet, Inc.
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 21:27:12 GMT

The mason working on my new house makes the following three assertions about
fireplaces:

1. The damper will be reasonably air-tight when closed, and thus will not
cause much heat-loss.

2. The only reason for glass doors on the fireplace is so you can watch
the pretty fire through the glass and not worry about sparks.

3. The only reason for externally venting the fireplace is to allow 2.

This sounds bogus to me, but what do I know? All I want is a heat-efficient
house, with occasional pretty fires. Thanks for any comments.

-- 
Jonathan Edwards				edwards@intranet.com
IntraNet, Inc					617-527-7020
From: rrw@elden (Robert Wier)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Mice
Date: 30 Aug 92 04:09:17 GMT
Originator: rrw@elden.cse.nau.edu

> 
>>    We have a mouse problem in our house in Vermont. We've used 'DeCon' and
>>found a few dead mice. Are we going to have to keep this up forever ?
>>
      -----

     Along these lines, this summer I had THREE (smell 'em - 3) mice die
 inside the house from D-Con - and unfortunately they of course died in
 out of the way places so I didn't know it until I got odor (yyueech!).

 D Con makes (or used to make) a product called LIM-N-8 (get it?) which
 worked GREAT!.  It was larger style blue-green pellets (I have pack
 rat problems as well as mice). I NEVER had anything die inside the hous
 e while using this (don't know why there should be such a difference in
 the two products).  I found it at hardware stores, but can't find it now
 - does anyone know if it's still being produced? I'd sure like to get
 some - the rats/mice seem to try to move inside in this part of the 
 west when fall comes around and the outside food supply shrinks.

--BW
 
- Bob Wier

  ---------- insert favorite standard disclaimers here ----------
                   College of Engineering
      Northern Arizona University, Flagstaff Arizona
  Internet: rrw@naucse.cse.nau.edu | BITNET: WIER@NAUVAX | WB5KXH
From: dand@ssd.intel.com (Dan Dreiszus)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Painting radiators?
Date: 4 Sep 92 17:17:40 GMT
Organization: Supercomputer Systems Divison, Intel Corp.

I'll summarize some information from the October '88 issue of
Old-House Journal.

Radiators heat by convection and radiation. Radiator paint
has no effect on convection, but can affect radiation in
the following manner:

o Radiation is only affected by the last coat of paint on the
  radiator (this suggests that paint build-up is an insignificant
  insulator).

o Non-metallic paints transmit more heat than a bare surface. Similarly:
   - Dark colors transmit slightly more heat than light colors.
   - Flat finishes transmit slightly more heat that glossy finishes.

o Metal bronze paints (the historically accurate finish) and
  galvanizing reduce heat transmission from 7.4 to 9.2 percent.
  Other metallic paints should fall somewhere in this range also.

If you choose a historic treatment like bronzing, the slight decrease
in output probably won't matter, since most old radiant systems
were over-spec'd and designed for uninsulated homes, whereas now most
homes at least have some attic insulation.

I've started stripping the paint off of mine and re-bronzing them.
They do look great this way, particularly in a century-old home.


--Dan





 
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Pigeon Repellent  ???
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 92 15:23:37 GMT

In misc.consumers.house, maw2@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (MICHELE A. WHITE) writes:

>I am looking for a way to get rid of pigeons who have taken a liking to our
>brick window sills.  The sills are getting pretty dirty and they aren't afraid
>of my cats.  Any suggestions?  (One of them even has a bread wrapper twister
>and a message attached to his leg!)

Many people in NY city cut pieces of 1/2" or 3/4" wood the same size
as the sill and drive nails through about every couple of inches. They
then lay these out on the sill, and the birds have no place to land.
I can't say much for the appearance of these things, though. The cure
may be worse than the disease.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | If you always tell the truth, you never
                    | have to remember what you said.
                    |                        Samuel Clemens
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: sns@bondi.jpl.nasa.gov (Sam Southard)
Subject: Re: Is homesteading still possible?
Keywords: homestead
Organization: SAR Systems Development & Processing, JPL
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 15:02:07 GMT

In article <1992Sep4.135007.20360@meaddata.com> dedek@meaddata.com (Mike Dedek) writes:
>In article <1992Sep2.132011.6408@sunova.ssc.gov>, butteris@dingus.ssc.gov writes:
>|> I was wondering if any countries, including the USA, still homestead. If  
>|> so, which ones and how do I get more information about them? 
>I've heard that Hawaii, USA does this but I believe only native Hawaiians are
>eligible.  Alaska may also do it.  I don't think any other states in USA 
>have homesteading.

My parents were just up in Alaska.  It does indeed homestead.  Of course, any
land which can be so acquired is far away from modern conviniences such as
roads.
From: hmoss@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Howard Moss)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 18:50:35 GMT
Subject: Re: new house thermostat needed
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Rosa, CA
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house

Well, 2 e-mail responses have suggested I look on the furnace for
the transformer. Sounds like good advice and I'll let you know soon.
Howard
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: gdw@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (gordon.d.woods)
Subject: Re: Need advice on replacing plastic gutters
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 12:47:31 GMT

From article <1992Aug21.181105.25033@wuecl.wustl.edu>, by jab3@cec2.wustl.edu (John Alonzo Breen):
> In article <1992Aug18.163603.14983@walter.cray.com> jeffz@cray.com (Jeff Zais) writes:
>>One other tip I got from looking at my Mom's gutters, which were installed
>>professionally:  Don't use a special downspout piece.  This just requires
>>extra seams.  Where you want a downspout, scribe the shape of the downspout
>>into the gutter and cut an "X" going between opposite corners.  Push back
>>the four tabs and you can attach a downspout with a small sheet metal screw.
>>It works quite well.
> noticed that they do sell special inserts that fit in a (presumably
> user-cut) hole in the regular gutter, but your way actually sounds
> easier.
I would use pop rivets instead of sheet metal screws because the
screws seem to work loose over time. With the inserts you can
easily rivet to the flange of the insert.
From: dresser@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Debra Dresser)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Insulation Under Extension
Date: 31 Aug 92 16:55:52 GMT
Reply-To: dresser@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Debra Dresser)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

Hello,

I'm sure the answer to this question can be found in the local library,
but I hard pressed for time these days.  A 6 month and 2 yr old do tha
to a person.

We have a basement under our house with a family room off the back that
has a crawl space under it.  We bought the house new, with a HOW warranty.
We've just noticed that there is no insulation under the floor in the
room.  This might explain the chill in that room in the winter.

My questions are these:
     What kind, if any, insulation should we use in the crawl space?
     Does some sort of a barrier need to be put over the insulation
to protect it?
     Would something like this be covered under a warranty?  I would
contact the builder, but he is bankrupt and out of business.

Any advice would be welcome, and if there is a FAQ on this, please advise
me as to where it is.

Thank you

Debbie Dresser
From: tmkk@uiuc.edu (Khan)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Security Alarms
Date: 3 Sep 92 20:51:20 GMT
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana


In article <1992Sep2.151427.12144@col.hp.com> andy@col.hp.com (Andrew Blasciak) writes:
>tmkk@uiuc.edu (Khan) writes:
>> 
>> In article <1992Sep1.195625.8444@bradley.bradley.edu> jeff@bradley.bradley.edu (Jeff Hibbard) writes:
>> >
>> >Yes.  They (like me) had an alarm that depended on the telephone line
>> >to notify a central monitoring office.  It didn't occur to them that
>> >turning off their telephone service while on vacation also crippled
>> >the alarm system.
>> 
>> [...]
>> 
>> >Every so often, somebody from the alarm company comes around and
>> >tries to convince me to put such stickers on my windows.  I refuse,
>> >on the grounds that all such stickers do is warn burglars that they
>> >need to cut my phone line before trying to open any windows or doors.
>> 
>> If your alarm system depends on a phone line, you might want to get a
>> "leased" line. If a leased line is cut, it raises an alarm at the phone
>> company and they know instantly that your house is under attack. It's a
>> little bit extra per month, but the peace of mind may be worth it,
>> especially when you consider that many burglars cut phone lines as a
>> matter of course, whether you have the stickers or not.
>> 
>> 
> Simpler method:
>
>   Go to the hardware store and puchase a telephone interface box.
>   Place on outside of house.     
>   Disguise real interface box as sprinkler controller (or light timer)
>   Burglar cuts fake wires, enters house thinking he's safe and gets
>   big surprise.

Security by obscurity? Yeah, this could work, assuming the burglar was
too stupid to see that the wires coming off the telephone pole go into
the sprinkler control box and not your fake network interface.

Here's another one: put a sign on your network interface saying "this is
a 'leased' telephone line. Cutting this line will instantly sound an
alarm and summon the police." The burglar has no way of knowing whether
or not your line really is a leased line or not, so it might deter some.
From: mcreynol@hplabsz.hpl.hp.com (Alan McReynolds)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Invisible Fencing
Date: 1 Sep 92 18:26:13 GMT
Article-I.D.: hplabsz.1992Sep1.182613.19823
Distribution: na
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories Palo Alto,CA

Some time ago I recall seeing advertising for "Invisible Fencing".  
This product was intended to keep your dog from wandering off of 
your property, without actually having to fence in the lot.  My 
hazy recollection of the product was that some sort of wire was 
buried at the perimeter of the lot and that it transmitted some 
sort of signal to a "smart" collar on the dog.  The collar, when 
brought too close to the buried wire, would irritate the dog 
enough to eventually train it to say at home.

Does anyone know more about the product?  
Who made/makes it?  
Does it work?

... Alan McReynolds

Mail to: Alan_McReynolds@HPLABS.HPL.HP.COM
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house