HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: peny@ppc.lpc.ethz.ch (Peter Nyffeler ,x4399)
Subject: Re: Converting control line aircraft for radio control flying
Reply-To: peny@ppc.lpc.ethz.ch
Organization: ETH-Zuerich, Physical-Chemistry-Lab. - Switzerland
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 17:13:07 GMT

Dear Rich,
I guess you never have flown control line before?
Try it it's fun. 

But first read 
HOW TO FLY U-CONTROL by Dick Mathis
JR Sales Company 1316 N.Mill Bowie, Texas 76230

I know that you can get that leaflet from SIG or TOWER HOBBYS. 
There you get also lines and handel.

Peter 
a Swiss F2B enthusiast
From: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Pulse Jets.
Date: 3 Oct 92 18:23:22 GMT
Article-I.D.: usenet.BvK5qy.FM3
Organization: Indiana University

In article <1992Oct2.225908.16250@rtsg.mot.com> svoboda@rtsg.mot.com (David Svoboda) writes:

|The combustion chamber/tailpipe screw onto the valve head with fine
|screws, and there is a locking ring, which implies that the nozzle
|length can be changed, perhaps to accomodate different fuels. (?)

Yes.. the jet pilots carry a wallet with different sized jets and a 
wrench around. The notromethane-based fuels used in Speed up to last
year required far bigger jets than gasoline does.

||To start it you do need ram air... most people use a compressed air
||cylinder but I've seen it done with one stroke of a bicycle pump.
|
|Um, I don't think you actually need ram air, exactly.  The engine has
|a pressure nipple on it which directs a stream of air directly onto
|the fuel jets, presumably to vaporize the fuel, but doesn't actually
|drive the mixture through the reed valves, though the valves are
|normally open a bit.  There also is a spark plug screwed into the 
|combustion chamber which I believe only needs to be sparked for 
|starting.

You could be right.. the jets start very rich which is why you often 
see a huge fireball exit the tailpipe upon starting. One design was
called the "Phire Phart".

|I inherited a DynaJet from a neighbor a long while back.  It sits
|on a closet shelf.  It is a pretty big one; about two and a half
|feet long.  It looks rather old, but the valves seem to seal well.  
|The combustion chamber is scorched, and it smells like kerosene,
|so I guess it has run before.  It is missing the spark plug.  I 
|don't really know much about it, and have never attempted to start 
|it.  Maybe someday, but in the meantime, does anybody know:

|1. Does it need pressurized fuel, and if so, a needle valve assembly?

The ones I've seen use suction. Metal tanks built into the pan. The
fuel flow is pretty sensitive to bumps.. the racing alcohol/MEK blends
are less sensitive than gasoline, since the flow rate is greater. No 
NV on any I've seen.

|2. There is a 1/8 hole that was drilled in the combustion chamber,
|opposite the spark hole.  Is this normal?  What's it for?

Don't know..

|3. How do you mount it?  It has no lugs or brackets.

Most I've seen are clamped into a metal airframe. C/L Speed jobs.

|4. Are there various sized fuel jets available?

Yes. No needle valve is used; the pilots will change jets at the flight
line.



-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Iskandar Taib                          | The only thing worse than Peach ala
Internet: NTAIB@SILVER.UCS.INDIANA.EDU |    Frog is Frog ala Peach
Bitnet:   NTAIB@IUBACS                 !
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib)
Subject: Re: Stall question
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 15:39:08 GMT

In article <1992Sep21.224056.8163@iex.uucp> djones@iex.iex.com writes:

|In article <3140026@hpsad.sad.hp.com| rexm@hpsad.sad.hp.com (Rex Musgrave)
|writes:

||Each time the plane fell off to its right. I did 4 or 5 stalls and
||I would think that it should fall off randombly left or right. Does
||this point to some trim mis-setting?

||I should note that the plane flies straight and level with the
||trim settings. I also checked right/left balance by holding the 
||tail and spinner. It seems very well balanced.

As someone pointed out a while back it could be that the engine torque
(even at idle) is causing the plane to favor one side or the other. 
Now as to why the airplane falls off to the side rather than staight 
ahead, that is because the wingtip stalls before the root. This can 
be caused by several factors. Narrow wingtips is one. Lack of washout
at the tips is another. A heavy wing loading will accentuate the be-
havior. Snap-rolling is the same thing except under high-G. 

What _isn't_ fun is having a combat plane snap roll _in_ on one du-
ring a match...


|Perhaps there is a tiny amount of wash-in in the tip. This I believe
|would cause the tip to stall before the root and give the indicated
|result. Also your left/right balance may not be accurate by holding
|the plane by the tail and spinner. There is an excellent article in
|Scale R/C about balancing.


This could be the reason, but it might also make the airplane roll at
high speed. Try flying fast and see if there is a rolling tendency. 


-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Iskandar Taib                          | The only thing worse than Peach ala
Internet: NTAIB@SILVER.UCS.INDIANA.EDU |    Frog is Frog ala Peach
Bitnet:   NTAIB@IUBACS                 !
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: benzene@neocad.com (Dave Bennett)
Subject: NiCad charger
Organization: NeoCAD, Inc.
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 15:06:00 GMT

I have a battery pack which contains six size "C" NiCads (7.5 volts) that
I want a charger for.  I have several smaller chargers, but they heat up
incredibly when I try to use them for this pack.

I was thinking perhaps I could make one.  Does anyone have any suggestions?


					Dave Bennett
					benzene@neocad.com
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Micro Servos
From: $stevee@sasb.byu.edu (Stephen Eldredge)
Date: 6 Oct 92 16:54:45 -0700

Morning netters,
	
	Seems that the r/c mags have had several issues with small (1/2A) 
type airplanes featured in constuction articles lately.  I have been 
interested in these, but the problem is the fact that I don't have any micro 
gear for these beasts.  I also am interested in giving HLG's a shot.  I know 
little more about the micro servos out there than their names.  Which are 
the best Micro's?  The ones I am looking at are:

Futaba S-133\33
Kyosho GS-31 (?)
Royal
Tower Hobbies
etc

From the pictures it seems that several of these are the same servo with a 
different label.  Has anyone had any experience with these?  I am also 
interested in the best place to by them.  What are the difference between 
BB, Coreless etc.  Is there really a significant difference?

Also I am interested in getting some 250ma or 110ma battery packs.  I have 
seen a thread recently about Sanyo and the like, but where is a good place 
to get these?  Can they be charged on the stock charger that comes with 
radio gear.

Thanks in advance

Steve.
From: sbixby@cup.portal.com (Steven W Bixby)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Removing warps
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 92 09:44:00 PDT
Organization: The Portal System (TM)

Chris Kaiser wrote:

(description of warped glider wing deleted - more than 80 char/line! ;-) )

Which way does the warp go?  Is wash-out/wash-in present, or is the panel
curved the long way (ie, the root & tip of the panel touch down at both LE
and TE, but the spar is suspended some amount)?

In my experience, you can recover SOME wash-in/out by using a sprayer with
1/2 ammonia & 1/2 water mix to dampen the entire panel.  Not dripping wet,
but not dry, either.  Then block up the panel on your building board so that
the wash-in/out is reversed by a similar amount as it was originally, weight
it down, and let it dry for a FEW DAYS.

If the panel is curved (bowed), you're mostly out of luck - you can try the
reversed-curve-and-wet-wood method above, but it's not very effective for
this curvature.

Generally, a bowed wing is relatively unimportant, especially if it's a small
amount.  But wash-in/out is not good - get that out.  Also, using heat-shrink
covering is essentially creating a stressed-skin structure on your wing, so
if you use the covering to straigten out a warp, it should be a quite
satisfactory fix.

  -swb-  (Steve Bixby - sbixby@cup.portal.com)
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 10:28:21 EDT
From: <JAL146@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: R/C Gas truck Ni-Cad batterys.

The best brand of ni-cds on the market today are by far either Sanyo or Panason
ics.  Sanyo makes several types of cells in all different sizes and milliampere
ratings.  For a generic AA cell, you are looking at a 600mAh cell.  They usuall
y go for about $10/4 cells or better (or worse).  You should take notice though
when you use them of their voltage.  They are consistant cells, but when they s
tart to loose their charge it becomes evident; some easy signs to look for are
slow servo transit times, and of course, looking that the little voltmeter on y
our transmitter.


As for charging, you will need a trickle charger.  If you go all-out, you can g
et a Novak or Tekin charge that will 'peak' the cells to maximum capacity, but
that's about another $100.  Cheap trickle charges are available in hobby shops,
 so that would be the best route to take; prices would range from $20-45.

- John
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: rob@phoenix.erc.clarkson.edu (Rob Logan)
Subject: Re: Putting together a heli FAQ; sugges
Reply-To: rob@phoenix.erc.clarkson.edu
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 14:08:42 GMT

> Disagree, most (A)RTF's with collective should fly inverted if they can throw 
> enough negative pitch. I've watched a Concept 30 do plenty of inverted.

I fly with lots of neg pitch, but when I setup a heli for a first time flyer
I put about a .5^o of positive so he can suddenly dump it all to get out of
a jam and not snap his tail boom.

---
Rob Logan           AMA        -----|-----   ARRL         n2qcn@k2cc.ny.usa.na
Clarkson ERC        IRCHA   *>=====[_]L)     EAA          AirBorn
Potsdam, NY 13699   PRA           -'-`-      PADI         USSA
work: 315-268-2292  fax: 315-268-6570        home: 315-265-2679
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Removing warps
From: kaiser@elec.canterbury.ac.nz (Chris Kaiser)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 09:16:32 GMT
Organization: Electrical Engineering, University of Canterbury, New Zealand

I'm part way through building a new wing for my electric glider, however despite
being careful to build it flat I've found that the center panel has a slight warp
in it. Is there any way to remove this warp before I cover the model? The wing
is an open structure rear of the main spar, sheeted top and bottom forward of the
spar and also has shear webs between the top and bottom main spars. The result is
a very rigid D-box - unfortunately a slightly warped D-box, but very rigid... (the
best laid plans of mice and men and all that stuff :-)

I know I can remove the warp by suitably tensioning the covering, however if it's
possible I would think the best solution is to remove the warp before covering so
that there are no built-in stresses, etc.

Any suggestions will be much appreciated.

Chris Kaiser

Postgrad, Elec. Eng. Dept.
University of Canterbury
Christchurch, NEW ZEALAND
From: fayne@tellabs.com (Jeffrey Fayne)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: AZ Mini-Reno race (QUERY)
Date: 29 Sep 92 13:37:10 GMT
Article-I.D.: tellab5.1992Sep29.133710.6615
Distribution: usa
Organization: Tellabs, Inc.



Does anybody know anything about the Mini-Reno style race that
will be held in AZ on October 9, 10, 11 ?

I've tried calling the phone number listed in the MA ad, but it
just keeps ringing!

I will be in Phoenix during that time and I would like to check
this event out.


					Thanks,
						Jeff
-- 
_____________________________________________________________________________
                                             
 F-14             |    _    |             | Jeffrey M. Fayne                
   Tomcat         |  /^ ^\  |             | Tellabs, Inc.   Lisle, IL  60532    
      ____________|_(  .  )_|____________ | 708-512-7726    FAX:708-852-7346
           --*/--|_| (___) |_|--\*--      | fayne@tellabs.com 
              *       O O       *     fjs | #include<StdDisclaimer.h>
_____________________________________________________________________________
From: sringrose@galaxy.gov.bc.ca
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Building Tips (was Re: hinges)
Date: 5 Oct 92 16:13:38 -0700
Organization: BC Systems Corporation

In article <23480@hacgate.SCG.HAC.COM>, lew@4ccvw101.scg.hac.com (Lyman Lew) writes:
> In article <mhart.717421230@blackjack> mhart@blackjack.dt.navy.mil (Michael Hart) writes:
>>
> 
>>Hinges: The hinge thread talked a lot about monokote hinges; what about
>>those iron-on "gapless" hinges?  Are they just expensive monokote
>>like hinges?  Should I use them or the monokote or pin-type hinges,
>>or the normal flat hinges supplied in the kit?
> 
> Not all of them. Some of the gapless hinges are stitched together. I wouldnt
> use Monokote (lace) hinges on power planes because the fuel and oil can 
> loosen up the adhesive and you'll loose an airplane that way. Any of the
> other commercial hinges are fine.
> 
>>Covering in general: I've layed out a color scheme/pattern for my US60.
>>It will be somewhat similar to the pattern shown on the ultrasports in
>>the advertisements, but much more air-visible colors: White base,
>>with red and blue stripings/accents.  So, how is this multi-color
>>monokoting done?  Do I cover the whole thing in white then lay the
>>colored pieces over the white?  Just cut each piece and put on with
>>overlap like a puzzle?
>>
> You can cover it either way. The former may have problems with bubbles though.
> 
>       FOR WHAT IT'S WORTH
	
   You may want to get a copy of Harry Higley's book on covering. He offers
many tips on how to get around the problems you have mentioned. I have found
all the methods he uses very helpful.  I treat monokoting like sanding, you
have to have three or four sessions at it in order to catch all the spots you
have previously missed. The last session is always going over the seams with
the heat set on high. As for laced hinges, I have been using Dodgson's method
(I don't think he came up with it, but he reccomends it) and if done correctly
and applied before the rest of the covering, will not come adrift. I witnessed
a Lovesong snap a wing on launch, and during the recovery both wings, the
remaining aileron and both flaps were fluttering at different rates, the pilot 
somehow recovered and landed and was back in the air after glassing the tip
back on, and the flaps and ailerons are hinged with monokote! Wait Virginia
you say, what about oil and grime?, I also fly power and find that if I keep
the airplane clean, it is not a problem.

Scott Ringrose
Printing and Presentation
B.C. Systems Corporation
sringros@bcsc02.gov.bc.ca
> 
> 
> 
From: rexm@hpsad.sad.hp.com (Rex Musgrave)
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 21:11:00 GMT
Subject: Re: Re: Stall question
Organization: HP Signal Analysis Division - Rohnert Park, CA
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc

Thanks for your comments. I have taken my plane back to the
field with some of this in mind. I found that I could induce a
leftward stall by adding just a little bit of left aileron. What
could have been happening is that in pulling full elevator in 
order to induce a stall, I was adding just a little right aileron
with my thumb. With the slow airspeed, this very small aileron may
not have been enough to roll the plane but enough to induce a stall
on the right wing first.

Your comments about narrow wingtips do not apply here, the Super Sportster
is a constant chord wing. I may have a twisted wing as well (either washin
or washout maybe I could tell if I knew the difference.  :-) The plane does
not exhibit high speed roll tendencies either. 

Of course my first experience with this phenomenom came on final approach
with the plane at about 5 feet altitude. This has resulted in a couple of
repairs to the wing. It is amazing how much noise a piece of balsa can
make when it cracks!
From: i001444@disc.dla.mil (james ogorek)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Covering tips
Date: 30 Sep 92 15:10:54 GMT
Organization: Defense Industrial Supply Center, Philadelphia, Pa

I have found using the new "NEON" colors a plus to visability in any type
of sky. Many varaitions are now possible using both standard and neon.

I have used the monokote trim tacking fluid (no heat) with great success.
Be CAREFUL with excess scrapes and trimmings, fluid acts like a magnet.


Need info on RC night flying. Success, failure, problems etc...
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: careyb@sweetpea.jsc.nasa.gov (Brian Carey 283-4181)
Subject: GreatPlanes Patriot .40
Organization: McDonnell Douglas Space Systems Company
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 16:12:35 GMT

I am looking at the GreatPlanes Patriot .40 for my next Plane.

Does any one have any information about this plane.
If you have one, how does it fly and what are the landing and slow
speed characteristics like. Also if you used retracks what kind 
did you install. Finally, if you were to build this plane again 
what changes would you consider.

Thank you in advance.

Brian C. Carey.

Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: mitrovic@tik.ethz.ch (Srdjan Mitrovic)
Subject: Max-Cells & RSR's Motor dyno
Organization: TIK, ETH Zuerich, Switzerland
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 14:12:19 GMT

Hello

I'll spent next week in L.A and San Diego area. As the E1:12 Swiss Championship
is starting  this December, I'd like to get some
stuff while I am on the other side of the ocean. I am mostly
interested in purchasing the RSR electro motor dyno and in accumulators.
The accumulators I am looking for are Panasonic Max Cells and Yuasa 
(does anybody know anything about the latter?) 

The question is what shop in L.A. or San Diego area is selling the
mentioned products. If you do not know, which would you recommend
for bying material for serious E1:12 on road racing?


Thanks in advance

Srdjan Mitrovic
Zuerich, Switzerland

e-mail: mitrovic@systech.tik.ethz
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: peny@ppc.lpc.ethz.ch (Peter Nyffeler ,x4399)
Subject: Re: Model Jet Motor
Reply-To: peny@ppc.lpc.ethz.ch
Organization: ETH-Zuerich, Physical-Chemistry-Lab. - Switzerland
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 18:00:36 GMT


3 Dyna-Jets (as used in the V-1) plans you can get from Germany
	VTH
	Verlag fuer Technik und Handwerk
	Postfach 1128
	D-7570 Baden-Baden 1
	Fax ..49 7221 210752
Plan No are:	MT/R 2392
		MT/R 357 + MT/R 357/A (may be the best one)
		MT 355

They recently published a book how to build a real jet engine.

P.S Yesterday I saw 2 Dyna-Jet RC-models flying. They are very dangerous if not build and flow by experts. 

Peter
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib)
Subject: Re: hinges
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 22:15:36 GMT

In article <1992Sep28.083803.28454@engage.pko.dec.com> cleigh@rtoeu.enet.dec.com writes:
>
>Iskandar writes:
>
>"Combat fliers use strips of FasCal on the edges if they use a 
>covering that tends to come off (eg. Seal Lamin or no-glue My-
>lar). The FasCal will NOT let go. It does have to be ironed down 
>even though it is "pre-sticky". It is also trasparent and very 
>clear so it should be pretty invisible when used to edge Monokote."

>For those of us not currently in the US can you give a better description of 
>this stuff for us so we can identify something locally?

Well, its a film that comes on a paper backing. It has a sticky
adhesive on one side. Its apparently used to make decals. It is 
usually clear but Bearden supposedly has a sample book with all
kinds of really crazy colors including metalflakes. A fairly good
substitute would be clear packing tape, though with some brands 
the adhesive turns to powder after about three years. 

I've been told that paper supply houses carry FasCal. There is 
an alternate brand called Fason. I haven't really looked for a 
cheap source though. My AIN Plastics catalog will soon be here 
so I'll look in there. I know they have a similar material with-
out the adhesive.




-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Iskandar Taib                          | The only thing worse than Peach ala
Internet: NTAIB@SILVER.UCS.INDIANA.EDU |    Frog is Frog ala Peach
Bitnet:   NTAIB@IUBACS                 !
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: radios and computers
From: kaiser@elec.canterbury.ac.nz (Chris Kaiser)
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 00:00:57 GMT
Organization: Electrical Engineering, University of Canterbury, New Zealand


In my last post I accidently sent it before I'd actually finished writing it.
What I meant to include was a bit about the "black box" that Mike mentioned.

I would guess that the direct servo drive output that Mike's Tx has is actually
the output from the encoder. This would then connect to the decoder in the Rx (via
the Rx's direct input), and the system would operate as normal except that the RF
stages are bypassed. If this is the case, then the Tx output would be either a
stream of digital bits for a PCM system, or a stream of 1-2 mS long pulses for
a PPM system.

In the PCM case, the black box would have to interface the Tx's digital output
stream to the computer's serial port. This requires detailed knowledge of the PCM
data stream spec's and could be very simple or very complicated, depending on how
similar/different the Tx's output is from the computers input format.

The PPM case would be fairly straightforward. Probably the simplest method is to
use the received pulses to gate a clock signal into a counter. The counter output
is then proportional to the pulse length and can be latched into a buffer and
transferred serially to the computer while the next pulse is being dealt to.
Synchronisation would be fairly straightforward using the pulse edges to latch
the counter output and then reset the counter. The only complication I can see
would be frame synchronisation, but even that shouldn't be too bad.

A more general method would be to use the Rx servo outputs instead of the
Tx`s direct servo drive output. This would allow the box to be connected to any
RC system that used standard servos, and would reduce the chance of damaging the
gear while experimenting since the servo outputs are quite robust and can handle
large loads. This method would also allow the "black box" to run off the Rx's power
(as servos do), eliminating the need for a separate power supply. The implementation
of this method would be the same as for the PPM case I described above, with only
minor differences in the front end since the pulses are received over seperate wires.

If you're interested, I could expand on the above (either through posts or email -
although a few diagrams would help:-). I'm not sure about using the direct servo
drive output for the PCM case, but the PPM system I mention would work anyway
if you used the servo outputs.

Chris Kaiser

Postgrad, Elec. Eng. Dept.
University of Canterbury
Christchurch, NEW ZEALAND

From: hstroyan@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Howard Stroyan)
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 18:34:16 GMT
Subject: Re: Cap 21 tail heavy
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc

In rec.models.rc, jrp@bohra.cpg.oz.au (John Pitman) writes:

> Recently I posted about my tail heavy GP CAP 21 .40 size - it took 11.5 oz of
> lead in the front of the cowl, AND a 4.5 oz brass nut inside the spinner to
> balance it!

1 lb of brass and lead?
Gee with that big of budget you could hang a 120 out there, or maybe
a chainsaw motor :-).

--
Howard Stroyan                                         
Hewlett-Packard                                        hstroyan@fc.hp.com
User Interface Technology Division                     
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc