HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: scholz@osf.org (Carl Scholz)
Subject: Was: Re: Good price for '92 VR6... G60 windows
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 21:16:09 GMT

|> Minor complaint:
|> 
|> you can't roll up both windows at once.  even though both windows have
|> the "one touch" feature common these days, you have to wait until one
|> window has stopped moving before you can do anything with the other.

You can't roll them down at the same time either.  But, the nifty feature is (given the one-touch-down operation), you can press the button for one window and while it is on its way down press (and release) the other window's button.  As soon as the first window finishes (very soon), the second will go down.  Almost cooler than having them go down simultaneously.  :-)

As far as G60 prices go:  I bought my 1990 G60 in Feb. 92 for $11.5K.  I had 7000 miles(!), leather and sunroof.  The car had been repossessed and the gorillas in the storage yard beat it up a little - there's a minor impression on the passenger door and a very small one on the left front fender.  Neither of them has broken paint and both are very difficult to see on a bright day.

I think I got a good deal (I still haven't seen one better).

BTW, has anyone else given up on the pitiful stock alloy wheels on this year car?  One of mine was apparently badly bent by the previous owner and badly straightened.  It holds air (I didn't notice it until recently), but I use the car at the track and I can't be worried about marginal wheels while I'm out there.

A used replacement wheel can be quoted at $150 each, but the only one that could actually be located and promised to be round and deliverable was $200 (even that one was only after two false promises).  These wheels are extremely rare on the used market.  New ones are $350-$450 from the dealer, depending on who you talk to.  Aftermarket alloys that FIT (read: clear the monster calipers and have the correct bolt-pattern/offset) are also rare, and not cheap considering the mediocre quality ($145-$190 each).



I ordered four OEM steel wheels ($50 each) and I'm going to sell what I can salvage of the alloys.

Carl
From: jvb@wyse.wyse.com (Jack Van Breen x2666 dept220)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: 84 Vanagon Shop manual, WHERE TO GET?
Date: 28 Jul 92 21:49:38 GMT
Distribution: ba
Organization: Wyse Technology, San Jose

I have been looking for the 'Hayes'(haine???) 'how-to' manual for my 84
vanagon and I don't seem to be having any luck?? where does one get this?
All I can find is the chiltons (yeach;-()  

I don't want the bently's as i don't ever expect to do more than the minor
tuneup, but I'd like to know more about the internals (there's a light
problem I'd like to track down:)

(Ok while I'm here:)

Does anyone out thee have any insight as to why my backup lights don't
work?  The bulbs are fine, but they just don't come on.  Where should I
look first (I already checked the fuse:)

Thanks!
-- 
Jack Van Breen (standard disclaimer, these are my own ...)
Product Support, Wyse Technology, San Jose, CA
...!uunet!wyse!jvb
jvb@wyse.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: hmoghada@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Hosein Moghaddar)
Subject: Fixing the Alternator
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 1992 03:35:41 GMT



Hi,

I have recently had difficulties in starting my Rabbit. I took the
alternator out and had it tested at a local auto parts store. The
test result indicated a faulty diode. 
Is anybody there  who knows if the diode can be replaced and how?
Is it in the small piece attached to brushes? or should I just replace
a new or used alternator?
Any suggestion is greatly appreciated in advance.
From: C.Wong1@lut.ac.uk
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Fox in Europe?
Date: 22 Jul 92 14:40:26 GMT
Reply-To: C.Wong1@lut.ac.uk (C Wong)
Organization: Loughborough University, UK.

>>hi,
>>The VW Fox is called the Polo in Europe; AFAIK the import duty on cars is
>>well  over 50%, (it used to be 100%+) in Greece. So don't buy it in Greece.
>>Belgium, Holland and other Northern European countries have a much less
>>draconian tax levy on cars, they are also *much* cheaper !
>
>No, it is not called Polo! The Polo is a small automobile made by VW. It
>comes out as a coupe or hatchback. Both of the body styles come with a third
>(or fifth) rear door, but the Polo has never, ever had a trunk like the Fox
>does. Furthermore, the Polo is much smaller than the Golf (for comparison).
>
>Now, if you feel that the Fox may be based on the same chasis as the Polo,
>then maybe I could agree with you. But it definately is not the same car!
>
>Please be careful on what information you provide...
>
>>regards
>>
>>Chun
>
>-- 
>   Nicos Kontopoulos                             Voice: (617) 787-1780
>   INTERnet: nicos@cs.bu.edu                    BITnet: ecolpqc@buacca
>-------------------------------------------------------------------------

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

 The hatchback, coupe AND trunk 4 door is called ** POLO ** !!!!! (In the U.K)
and the rest of Europe 

The original late 70s 4 door Polo was called the Derby, but that designation
was dropped ages ago !!!

---- Check your facts out before broadcasting world wide --------------


Chun
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: ac579@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (G.C.J. Timm)
Subject: Re: An Enigma 
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio, (USA)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 92 20:23:59 GMT


I wonder if the "Miracle Additive" was nasty old Alcohol?

The VW filter may have treated it like water.

Any fluid flow physics fellows out in net land?

Jeff
Who distrusts the idea that Washingtoons are going to make me
put strange chemicals in my gas tank this winter....
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: acuff@sumex-aim.stanford.edu (Richard Acuff)
Subject: Re: EGR light on 78 Bus
Organization: Stanford University
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 18:58:01 GMT


In article <1992Jul27.184127.1@atmo1.atmo.arizona.edu>, mozer@atmo1.atmo.arizona.edu writes:
> 
> The EGR light in my '78 Bus has just started to light up. 

Thanks to others on the net I was able to reset the EGR light on
my '78 bus.  There's a box behind the panel in front of the
driver's feet with a button.  Push it.  Be careful not to mutilate
the panel taking it out and putting it back.

	-- Rich

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: msirota@ee.rochester.edu (Mark Sirota)
Subject: Re: Corrado wheels
Reply-To: Mark Sirota <msirota@socrates.ee.rochester.edu>
Organization: University of Rochester Department of Electrical Engineering
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 15:32:46 GMT

In article <1992Jul25.003949.10201@stiatl.salestech.com> ges@stiatl.salestech.com (Gerald Sullivan) writes:
> I have had many problems with bent wheels (vw, not BBS) on my '90 Corrado. 
> I have has a couple of the straightened for $80. They soon were bent again.
> I currently have 4 bent wheels.  I have given up fixing them unless 
> they cause the tire to leak.  I have never bent wheels on other VW's that I
> have driven over the last 12 years. I keep my tires inflated (44lbs f,
> 39lbs r).  Are these wheels exremely fragile or am I abusing them?

I too have had problems with bent wheels on my '87 GTI 16V.  I think they
are a little fragile, but some care will do a lot of good.

I lost three wheels to bad shocks.  I was using Tokico Illumina 5-way
adjustables, which don't seem to work very well on the front of A2 VW's.
Their failure mode is that they bind up rather than getting soft, and this
generally seems to happen after about 15K miles.  When the strut binds up
and refuses to compress, something will have to give when you hit a bump,
and most likely it will be your wheel.

Moral: Pay attention to the condition of your shocks.

Second, proper tire inflation is crucial.  If your pressure is too low, then
you may hit a bump and compress the tire enough for the wheel to actually
make contact with the ground.  If your tire pressure is too high, you are
taking away one shock absorption device -- the tire sidewall -- and so the
wheel will be subjected to more force than it otherwise might.

IMHO, 44/39 is *WAY* too high for a Corrado.  The only thing you gain from
such high pressure is fuel mileage...  I would think that your handling,
tire wear, and ride would be truly awful.  Something in the range of 32/28
to perhaps 35/30 would be more appropriate.
-- 
Mark Sirota - Department of Electrical Engineering Systems Staff
University of Rochester, Rochester NY
 Internet: msirota@ee.rochester.edu
 UUCP:     rutgers!rochester!ur-valhalla!msirota
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: greis@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Gayla Ann Greis)
Subject: Re: Releace of the Eurovan?
Organization: Computing Services Division, University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 01:18:39 GMT

In article <1992Jul11.022923.1@kean.ucs.mun.ca> dlawlor@kean.ucs.mun.ca writes:
>In article <1992Jul6.162543.5411@galileo.cc.rochester.edu>, tgpt_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Tom Guptill) writes:
>> In <1992Jul6.011635.1@kean.ucs.mun.ca> dlawlor@kean.ucs.mun.ca writes:
>> 
>>>I know that the Eurovan has been releaced in canada.  I saw one at the local VW

If you're in Milwaukee this weekend, come to GermanFest at the lakefront.
We'll have one on display (Canadian Specs). We'll be taking orders, and 
hopefully have them in for sale soon.
From: eliot@stalfos.engr.washington.edu (eliot)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Corrado wheels
Date: 28 Jul 92 21:18:27 GMT
Organization: skulls 'r us


The other question I have is:  with the 91 Corrados, VW went to a slightly
wider wheel and 205/50 tires.  Did they alter the gearing to compensate
for the extra tire diameter?  Should I get 205/50 or 195/50 replacement
tires for the 1990 G60 in the interest of preserving the wheels?

thanks


eliot
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: reedm2@aix.rpi.edu (Matthew William Reed)
Subject: recondition cylinder head - valve job
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 15:05:10 GMT

I am looking for opinions/advice from anybody who's 
worked on the 2.22 liter 5-cylinder vw/audi engine.

At 96K miles, my '87 quantum GL5 (bought used) began
making that infamous, intermittent "valve tapping
sound". Only, it was really loud and harsh. I couldn't
deal with it. I replaced one bad lifter - the shop manual      
says to "push down on lifter with a suitable wood stick.
If lifter can be pushed down - it must be replaced."

1) does this make sense? Obviously the lifter must be able to be
pushed down, as the cam lobe pushes the lifter, it opens the
valve. Does anyone know how to check a lifter to see if it's
bad or leaky? ALL of mine can be pushed down, but I think the
real test should be "do they rise back up to the cam".  

Anyway, the one lifter I replaced wasn't the bad one - because
the engine kept making the same sound. I figure, bad valve?
bad spring? the valve sticks and is hit by the piston? what the
hell could be making this much noise? To really answer this    
question you'd probably have to hear it.

I figure - 96 K miles, might as well do some engine work while
I'm in here. I took the head off, and took it to a machine shop for 
a valve job. $75 for the valve job, $20 to remove/check the cam,
and some more stuff, somehow it's up to $162. A gasket set is
$71. Someone suggested it might be a pusher rod bearing.
If anyone's had similar problems and has a suggestion, I'd
like to hear it.

Any ideas or advice will be greatly appreciated.

email  reedm2@rpi.edu    or mwr@alux2.att.com    or post    thanks

Well I'm feeling that I'm sober   |  Matthew Reed
Even though I'm drinking          |  reedm2@rpi.edu
Well I can't get any lower        |  Rensselaer Polytechnic Theme Park
Still I feel I'm sinking          | 
                 - Soundgarden    |
From: keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov (Larry Keys)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: More on GL-4 vs. GL-5 Transmission Fluids
Date: 24 Jul 92 12:40:05 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: National Institute of Standards & Technology

In article <sgupta.711926793@mueller.ecn.purdue.edu> sgupta@mueller.ecn.purdue.edu (Sameer Gupta) writes:



>Initially, I think Jan said that GL-5 should not be used in VWs.  But, then
>a some people responded saying GL-5 is the proper oil to be used.  I checked
>with the local dealer, they did not have a clue.  They use Castrol GL-5 80W90
>oil (awful, I know.)  Haynes manual also says GL-5.  But, I just called up
>VWoA and they said use GL-4.  Who is right ?

The owners manual that came with my car says use GL-4.  Last weekend 7/18/92
the National Capital Area VW Club, held a clinic at Springfield VW.  I had
the opportunity to drive my car in to one of the bays there and replace
the transmission fluid on my Jetta.  We received assistance (when needed)
from the mechanics. The entire operation required less time than an oil
change.

>Another related question - What is the weight for Redline MTL (ie. is 90W or
>80W90 or what ?)  Also, somebody recently said that after  putting Redline in
>the transmission, the engine has to work harder to accelerate from 70 to 85.
>Has anybody else experience this ?

I am looking at a catalog from "Red Line Oil" and it says "MTL Manual
Transmission Lubricant - a 75W/80W GL-4 gear oil designed for use in manual
transmissions and transaxles.  Provides excellent protection of gears and
synchronizers and its balanced slipperiness provides a perfect coeffieient
of friction, allowing easier shifting."

I don't believe that the engine has to work any harder.  The only difference
that i have noticed is that the transmission seems smoother and quieter.

                                                   .              
                                                 /                
Larry                            __/    ______ /                  
keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov       /                \                 
                         _ _ _      __      _____  \------- ===   
            ---------- /  __ /    /  /    /__  __/            \   
         /            /  / ____  /  /       / /                |  
        |            / /___/  / /  /__   __/ /__              /   
        /_____       \______/  /_____ / /______/        --- ////   
             \_____           2 liter 16v       \_______/         
                                                                              
        Fahrvergnugen forever!

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: vijay@ccd.harris.com (Vijay Ruhela)
Subject: Need shop manual for Jetta '87 GL
Organization: Harris Controls and Compositions
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 13:51:03 GMT

Need shop Manual for Jetta GL '87

Quote price.

Vijay
(vijay@ccd.harris.com)
From: borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: diesel Rabbit mysteries (we didn't do the engine swap)
Date: 28 Jul 92 19:06:10 GMT
Organization: Hewlett Packard Company, Spokane, Wa.

In rec.autos.vw, scholz@osf.org (Carl Scholz) writes:

>About a week ago, I asked questions about swapping engines in a '80 Diesel Rabbit.  Thanks to all who responded.  It turned out that my brother and I never did the swap because we were able to get the 'dead' engine running.
>
>    We have a few questions:
>
>1) There is a generous amount of steam (? it's not oily and it's white) puffing out of the oil fill hole (with cap off) and the air intake (with filter off).  We were told in passing by a previous owner (not the seller) that the car had a "cracked block" (that's why we were going to swap the other one in).  But, we found that the "good" engine puffed a little steam also (not as much).  Are they both cracked and is this coolant entering the combustion chambers or is this normal for diesels?  Do we care, as



 
>long as it runs (beater car)?  
>
>Note:  The car had been sitting for almost a year.  We drained the old fuel and put in fresh diesel, but we haven't had a chance to run it much since then.
>
>2) We are having trouble with the starter solenoid.  Most of the time when you turn the key to start, the + lead terminal on the solenoid (directly from the battery) arcs to the radiator fans housing about 1-2 inches away (it snaps a nasty spark).  At the same time, the solenoid just clicks, but never gets the starter spinning.  Occasionnally, it works normally.  The engine block and start housing seem to be grounded (checked with a voltmeter).  The radiator fan housing is also grounded.  What could be th



e
>problem?
>
>BTW, we thought it was a bad solenoid originally and so we swapped in the solenoid/starter from the other car.  It worked fine while we concentrated on getting the engine running for the first time.  After our test drive, when we tried to restart, the solenoid acted up again.  We thought we'd blown a second solenoid due to some other problem, but then it worked again.  We're confused.
 
Question 1:  Do you see the "steam" immediately when you first start the
engine, or do you have to wait until it is warmed up?  If you see it
immediately, you are really seeing blowby, not steam generated by internally
leaking coolant.  If you have to wait until the engine is warmed up to see
it, then it could be coolant leaking past a cracked head or cracked block,
or a bad head gasket.  In this case, you will notice the coolant level drop
after you drive the car.

Question #2:  I would guess that the starter switch contacts on the ignition
switch are bad, or possibly you have dirty connections from the battery to
the starter or battery to the engine block.


Donald Borowski    WA6OMI    Hewlett-Packard, Spokane Division
"Angels are able to fly because they take themselves so lightly."
                                       -G.K. Chesterton
From: andrem@pyrman2.mis.pyramid.com (Andre Molyneux)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: What is this part?
Date: 29 Jul 92 22:12:03 GMT
Originator: daemon@sword.eng.pyramid.com

christos@wucs1.wustl.edu (Christos Papadopoulos) wrote:

>	For a long time now I was watching this thing under the hood
>of my 84 Jetta and I kept wondering what it is! You know, the plastic
>thing that looks like it is made out of bubbles glued together. This
>thing has a thin plastic hose coming down to the engine and connecting
>with other hoses.

I believe it's a vacuum reservoir.  I would guess that its function is to
help keep enough vaccum pressure to run vacuum-operated accessories during
times when the engine is not producing much vacuum (such as with the throttle
fairly wide open.)

>	What does this do? I noticed that some of the connections in these
>hoses are cracked. Would this create a problem?

If the hoses are cracked, they would probably cause the same problems as
any other vacuum leak.

+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Andre Molyneux   KA7WVV     "Insert your favorite disclaimer here"       |
+-----------------------------------------+--------------------------------+
|      -=-------- PYRAMID TECHNOLOGY CORP |Internet:                       |
|    ---===------ 3860 N. First Street    |  andrem@pyramid.com            |
|  -----=====---- San Jose, CA 95134      |Packet:                         |
|-------=======-- (408) 428-8229          |  ka7wvv@n0ary.#nocal.ca.usa.na |
+-----------------------------------------+--------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mariem@sco.COM (marie megna)
Subject: VW Classic Question
Organization: The Santa Cruz Operation, Inc.
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 16:22:54 GMT
Keywords: Classic Car Club Info wanted


Hello Netters, Here's my question:

I have a 1970 vw type 3 that is in mint condition, one owner, all papers etc.
I was thinking about selling it here soon, to get a new car,  I have no idea
what it's worth, but I've been offered $3500.00 and $4000.00 before from
people on the street!  I'd actually like to keep it for 3 more years, when it
turns 25 and then maybe sell it.  Problem is, i'd like to get intouch with the
classic car clubs and find out what's a good price, how much will it be worth
when she turns 25, etc....
To be honest, i'd hate to sell it.  It's been our family for years, since it
was new and I'm actually attatched to it (if you can get attatched to a car)
so I'd be pretty picky about who I'd sell it to, (you know the questions:  do
you have a good place to keep it, you won't lower it, or strip it, hurt it in
anyway,...and so on).  So, I'd appreciate any information you can give me.
Either e-mail or on the net, I usually read about 2X a day!  Thanks in
advance, i'll appreciate any comments and information.  Marie
e-mail: mariem@sco.COM
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: st901745@pip.cc.brandeis.edu (Alastair M. Bor)
Subject: Bumber sticker
Reply-To: st901745@pip.cc.brandeis.edu
Organization: Brandeis University
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 22:08:47 GMT

Perhaps I missed something... but what funny/interesting/etc. bumber
sticker are you guys talking about?
-Alastair M. Bor
st901745@pip.cc.brandeis.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: ptimmerm@kathy.jpl.nasa.gov (Paul Timmerman)
Subject: 20 valve head conversion?
Reply-To: ptimmerm@kathy.jpl.nasa.gov (Paul Timmerman)
Organization: Jpl.Nasa.Gov
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 16:34:43 GMT

I just saw an add for some guy prting out a 90 quattro turbo coupe with
rear end damage :(  The engine is for sale :)  I know that the 20 valve
version is a aluminum block , aluminum cross-flow head design, unlike the 
earlier iron block units like mine.  Has anybody ever heard of or actually
put a newer twenty valve motor into an older quattro coupe?  Obviously
lots of plumbing changes, I wonder what else is required?

ptimmerm@kathy.jpl.nasa.gov