HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jony@microsoft.com (Jon Yeargers)
Subject: Re: Some questions...
Date: 26 Aug 92 15:58:03 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp.
Distribution: usa


What sorts of plants were you going to plant? Most (he says, sticking his
neck waaaaay out) don't like to grow over a UGF. Just my $0.02
Jonny Y (microsoft!jony@cs.washington.edu)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: grenus@stable.ecn.purdue.edu (Karen M Grenus)
Subject: Newt's age
Summary: How old do newts get?
Keywords: newt lifespan
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network
Date:  3 Sep 92 22:38:36 GMT

I got a pet red-spotted newt for my sixteenth birthday. I just turned 25 and
Newton is still going strong. Is it normal for a newt to live so long?
I've tried to find newt lifespan in reference material and have had no luck.
Please let me know if there is any info.

Thanks - Karen 

Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Paul A Prior)
Subject: Re: Hair Algae
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 23:59:57 GMT

In article <92246.133043IDBXS@ASUACAD.BITNET> Bryan Schreiber <IDBXS@ASUACAD.BITNET> writes:
>Hi
>
>I have a 55 Gallon Reef Tank, with several inverts. and soft corals. Recently
>I have been having a problem keeping as some people call it Hair algae from
>growing, the algae is green and grows on the live rocks in the tank. I have
>tried everything from adding chemicals that are suppose to stop algae grow, to
>recently using bottled water when I do my water changes.
>Does anyone know of a sure fire way to get rid of this algae, which will be
>safe for the corals and inverts.

There is -no- "sure-fire" way, but I would suggest the following:

1)  Feed less
2)  Feed less
3)  do water changes more frequently (with phosphate-free salt mixes)
4)  Do NOT use most reef supliments.
5)  Consider an RO unit.


-- 
--------pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu----(614) 621-8240----------------
Paul A. Prior    Ban anchors, not reef tanks   "With friends like this,   
3rd year medical student		          who needs anemones?"
The Ohio State U. College of Medicine   Tobacco Kills- Please don't smoke!
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: patton@phy.uab.edu (David Patton)
Subject: Re: Some questions...
Reply-To: patton@phy.uab.edu
Organization: University of Alabama at Birmingham
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 15:40:03 GMT

In article 24227@mr.med.ge.com, bednarek@picard.med.ge.com (Dennis Bednarek Mfg 4-6971) writes:
>
>I cannot agree more with the prior post.  At one point I had at least
>30 tanks set up in my basement (wife wouldn't have them upstairs) and
>spent about a 1/2 hour a day on maintance, pluss once a month I would
>take the worst tank and strip clean it.  During that time I was selling
>plants, and angel fish to several aquarium stores.  While prices have
>gone up I never hadf much more than $60.00 invested in each tank.
>Basic 30 gallon tank     $30.00
>Heater                   $08.00
>Florescent light fixture $10.00
>Air stone and tubing     $05.00
>Gravel                   $05.00
>


So where do you get these tanks at. I'll take two!! Just kidding  :-)
I think you hit the nail on the head when you said prices have gone up.
BTW, did you really use no filter systems. Just curious.








Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: dhiggs@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (General Protection Fault)
Subject: Re: Aquaclear in Marine Aquarium
Organization: is the refuge of the unimaginative!
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 14:07:57 GMT


In article <1992Aug31.130823.5441@wam.umd.edu> faith@wam.umd.edu (Jay) writes:
+
+OK,  This is the deal:
+
+I am about to move back to school and I am taking my aquarium with me (75 gal)
.
+I also have a 29 gal but that is staying at home. I want to start a marine
+aquarium but I want to spend as less money as possible. I have a 300 Aquaclear
+filter.  Will this be good enough to sustain life?  I would hate to have my fi
sh
+die. I didn't want to spend alot on a filter.
+
+What do you think? ...............  Thanks.     Jerome!
+
If you're just going with a simple marine tank (not a specialized reef tank 
with REALLY specific woter condition requirements) your Aquaclear 300 in tandem
with a UGF are probably more than sufficient.  The dual filtration setup will
provide a sort of insurance policy in the event of a pump failure.

Keith.
-- 
D.K.Higgs  DATA+@osu.edu  a.k.a  dhiggs@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu _____   __o
Ohio State University Libraries, Acquisitions Department      -------    -\<,
Continuation Acquisition Division                              ------ ( )/ ( )
~~(614)292-6314~~~~~~fax(614)292-2015~~~~~~~~~~\_________/~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: livings@unislc.uucp (Ross Livingston)
Subject: Water chemistry help
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Organization: Unisys Corporation SLC
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 16:19:33 GMT

Since I haven't received any responses to my post to sci.aquaria, I wonder
if many people read that group.  If anyone can give me advice here, I'd sure
appreciate it.  If you try to email me and it bounces, mail to:
livings@cs.utah.edu and you should have better luck.  Thanks.
--------------------------------------
[ Article crossposted from sci.aquaria ]
[ Author was Ross Livingston ]
[ Posted on Tue, 25 Aug 1992 15:06:15 GMT ]

Following the advice of the water quality FAQ, I phoned the local water
works company and asked to have  their latest water quality survey faxed
to me.  They were very accomidating and faxed me more than I know what to
do with, and in about 2 minutes!  What service.  Being new to aquaria,
and seeing how many metrics there are for success with fish, I was wondering
if some of you might help me determine what actions I will need to take to
condition my water, based on the info I received.  The water works people
faxed me test results for 3/89 and 4/92.  I'll only include the latter, since
nothing really changed over this 3 year interval.

Parameter in milligrams per liter (isn't this just ppm?)

Aluminum	<0.2
Arsenic		<0.005
Barium		 0.064
Cadmium		<0.001
Chromium	<0.005
Copper		<0.020
Flouride	 0.160
Iron		<0.02
Lead		<0.005
Manganese	<0.005
Mercury		<0.0002
Selenium	<0.005
Silver		<0.002
Zinc		<0.02

Bicarbonate		153
Carbonate		0
Calcium			53
Hardness as CaCO3	198
 "  grains/gallon	12
 "  Non-Carbonate	73
Alkalinity as CaCO3	125
Magnesium		16
Nitrate/Nitrite		0.30
Sodium			18
Free Co2		2
Specific Conductance	447
pH (in units)		7.9
Chloride		34.7
Phosphate		<0.01
Sulfate			55
Total Dissolved Solids	274
Total Suspended Solids	<3
Turbidity (NTU's)	0.16
TTHM's			0.024


I include this whole list because I really don't know WHICH of these
parameters are an issue in hopes that some fish person out there is
also a chemist or a water company type!  Based on these values, what
do I need to do to treat the water in the first place?  For subsequent
water changes?  Thanks for your help.

-- 
Ross Livingston, Unisys Corp.  |  Phone   (801) 594-6217
322 North  2200 West,   D1V03  |  Fax     801-594-4861 / 801-594-6708
Salt Lake City, UT   84116     |  E-Mail  livings@unislc.slc.unisys.com
From: ahughes@arch386.hyperdesk.com (Arch Hughes)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: alkalinity/dKH
Keywords: dKH
Date: 2 Sep 92 21:52:00 GMT
Reply-To: arch@hyperdesk.com
Distribution: na
Organization: HyperDesk Corporation

In article <1992Sep1.173345.5922@cbfsb.cb.att.com>, mdc@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (barbara.guerin) writes:
> 
> I am looking for opinions on the following products
> to bring the dKH or alkalinity of my 55gal reef up.
[....]
> Seachem, Coralife, Thiel.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> Dana

I use SeaBuffer.  It contains Sodium Carbonate, Sodium Bicarbonate,
and one other "thingy" I can't remember.  By label, it contains no
phosphates, but I've not measured to see if it has some traces of it.

It sure as heck does a fine job of running the KH of the tank up.

-- 
o o|  Arch Hughes, HyperDesk Corp.        Phone   508-366-5050 x103
o o|  Suite 300, 2000 West Park Dr.       Fax     508-898-3841
---+  Westboro, MA   01581                E-Mail  arch@hyperdesk.com
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
From: jimh@ultra.com (Jim Hurley)
Subject: Re: Dupla USA Products
Organization: Ultra Network Technologies
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 92 20:07:22 GMT

In <1992Sep1.183722.26292@meaddata.com> derrick@meaddata.com (Derrick Tatem) writes:

>Hello fans of aquaria:

>Does anyone know if Dupla has a catalog for us aquaria fans to place
>orders from? If there is one, could someone please e-mail me the
>address and/or telephone number? Thanks in advance.
>-- 
>Derrick M. Tatem
>Mead Data Central, Dayton, Ohio
>Internet: derrick@meaddata.com
>UUCP:     !uunet!meaddata!derrick

I don't know, but the Daleco catalog looks like
it carries most Dupla stuff. The catalog is not
free, but if you place a big enough first order they'll send
it free.

Daleco 219-747-7376
3340 Land Drive
Fort Wayne, IN 46809
-- 
Jim Hurley --> jimh@ultra.com  ...!ames!ultra!jimh  (408) 922-0100
Ultra Network Technologies / 101 Daggett Drive / San Jose CA 95134
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: etrobert@nyx.cs.du.edu (Edward Roberts)
Subject: biolife filter
Organization: Nyx, Public Access Unix @ U. of Denver Math/CS dept.
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 92 21:28:03 GMT

Does anyone have and use one of the new Hagan biolife 55 filters?

I was planning on buying a  penguin 300 for a tank I'm going to
set up, but a local store is having a sale on the biolife and
I figure $55 bucks for a filter and a heater isa good deal. 
But as I've yet to see one in action I'm sceptical. so any
information would be appreciated.

It will be used on a 55gallon tak with lots of live plants. 

I'd like to add CO2 but can't afford it which brings up my
second question. A long time ago someone posted a method of
cheep CO2 augmentaion by letting bakers yeast ferment corn
syrup  in a pepsi bottle. The CO2 is delivered via airline
directly to the tank.  any thoughts on this? will it work?


Thanks in advance. 

Ed Roberts

   				
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: jjz34245@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Wendell Gee)
Subject: Need sick Oscar help.
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 02:33:44 GMT

Howdee all,

I have a rather sick Oscar. He's 9 or 10 inches long, and has always been
in relatively good health until the last month or so.

He has always had a habit of jumping at the glass lid at feeding time, and
therefore when he injured his head right above his eyes, I wasn't surprised.

I bought some Marycyn (sp?) and all seemed well. Unfortunately, he stopped
eating right after that.

Soon thereafter, he started to show signs of greyish film, and then the last
few days, eye cloud.  His tail fin has begun to rot away too.

The wound on his head became soft, and began to spread to about 4 times its
original size. It appears to be grey in color now, where it should be
olive or orange colored.

In short, he hasnt eaten in weeks, and the wounds/grey patches didnt heal
at all.

But he is still hanging in there.  What can I do to help him?

Thanks,
-Zim

Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: thester@nyx.cs.du.edu (Uncle Fester)
Subject: Re: Need sick Oscar help.
X-Disclaimer: Nyx is a public access Unix system run by the University
	of Denver for the Denver community.  The University has neither
	control over nor responsibility for the opinions of users.
Organization: Nyx, Public Access Unix at U. of Denver Math/CS dept.
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 92 23:21:58 GMT


You should be using Maracyn II at the _same_ time you are using Maracyn.
These two compliment each other.  It is a broad spectrum antibiotic
(erythromycin).  It does _not_ contain any malachite green or methylene
blue or any other "chemical".  It is also safe to use with your UGF and
will not do any harm to the nitrobacter and nitrosomonas (good bacteria)
in your biological filtration.  You can also keep your external power
filters running.  Maracyn is for "gram-positive" bacteria and Maracyn Two
is for "gram negative".  Using the two together is a shotgun sort of
approach, since diagnosis of specific diseases is etremely difficult for
both the expert and amateur aquarist alike.  
Use the two for a full five days at the recommended dosage.  
If your oscar has a 'true fungus' infection, you should try MarOxy along
with the two products mentioned above.  
The ammonia/nitrite levels and pH should also be checked.  An acidic high
ammonia water condition can't do anything but further harm your oscar.
Good luck.

Uncle Fester

--
:  Master,                        :       Uncle Fester       : Printed  :
:    Me and Rex took the kar      :   thester@nyx.cs.du.edu  : on 100%  :
:    to town. Stay home. Stay!    :         -or try-         :recyclable:
:       Ha ha ha ha.   The dog.   :    T.HESTER4 on GEnie    : phosphor :
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: jony@microsoft.com (Jon Yeargers)
Subject: water conditioners/dechlorinators
Date: 24 Aug 92 20:01:41 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp.
Distribution: usa

was any consensus ever reached about what water conditioners for fresh
water people prefer/recommend?

Jonny Y (microsoft!jony@beaver.cs.washington.edu)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: Igor Livshits <igorl@uiuc.edu>
Subject: Re: [M] Horse-shoe Crab
X-Xxdate: Tue, 1 Sep 92 17:11:23 GMT
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d9
Organization: NCSA
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 16:12:23 GMT
X-Xxmessage-Id: <A6C9005BBE0114C6@spiff.ncsa.uiuc.edu>

I rather enjoyed having mine...until he crawled over the Elegance coral
and died within a few hours.  These are not reef creatures and do not
know what is dangerous.

igor
From: nissen6318@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: <None>
Date: 29 Aug 92 14:59:42 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

I HAVE A QUESTION ABOUT USING A POWERHEAD IN A SEALED CANISTER FILTER INSTEAD
OF A EXPENCIVE WATER PUMP.  I THOUGHT THAT IF THE SYSTEM WAS SEALED THAT 
THE SYPHON ACTION WOULD DO MOST OF THE WATER MOVING WORK.  BUT I'M NOT TOTALLY
SURE OF THIS AND WOULD LIKE TO IF ANYONE OUT THERE KNOWS IF THIS IS POSABLE.
THIS IS MY FIRST TIME POSTING A QUESTION SO IF I MESSED UP I WOULD LIKE TO
KNOW WHAT I DID WRONG.  THANKS FOR YOUR HELP.


                     BRIAN NISSEN



Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: jony@microsoft.com (Jon Yeargers)
Subject: Re: Dupla USA Products
Date: 02 Sep 92 15:22:28 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp.
Distribution: usa


Please post this address! Jonny Y
(I am not sure what my new email address is...hmm)
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 16:57:41 EDT
From: <HCM100@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: (DIY) Wet/Dry plans

A couple of years ago I posted a very popular design for a DIY protein
skimmer.  Now I am asking for a similar favour in return.

I have a 70g tank that I am converting from just marine fishies to reef.

Lighting is taken care of, but Wet/Dry needs work.  I have a 20g long that
I would like to convert to a wet/dry.  Anyone have experience with this?
Plans would be helpful.

Mucho Appreciado.
| HANS C. MASING                   | A BAD ATTITUDE IS THE      |
| HCM100 @ PSUVM.PSU.EDU           | DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE     |
| MANAGEMENT INFORMATION SYSTEMS   | WAY I THINK AND THE WAY    |
| PENN STATE UNIVERSITY            | YOU THINK I SHOULD THINK.  |
From: booth@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (George Booth)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 18:38:35 GMT
Subject: Re: [F] Setup for plants and fish
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria

In alt.aquaria, denise@pprg.eece.unm.edu (Denise J. Richards) writes:

    OK, I have come to the conclusion that if I want to have plants in my tank,
    and have them do well, then I must do away with my UGF.  How do I do this?
 
Well, that may be an incorrect conclusion.  Before you tear down the tank and
invest in new filters, why not consider CO2 injection.  If you want plants 
to do well (which is a very subjective term, of course), you really 
should use CO2.  If you don't use CO2, your plant growth will be marginal
at best, unless you very carefully select plants that can extract the 
necessary carbon from any carbonate compounds that MAY be in your water.   

If you get AFM (Aquarium Fish Magazine), the lead photos for the "Modern
Aquascaping" articles in the Aug and Sept issues were taken in our 85 
gallon tank WITH UGF.  IMHO, the type of filter DOES NOT affect plant 
growth as long as you have the proper lighting, nutrients and CO2.  If
you do not have these key components, your success with plants with 
depend on dumb luck and will not be affected by your choice of filters
or what kind of garbage you put in the substrate. 

------
George
From: nissen6318@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: filter material
Date: 1 Sep 92 18:44:10 GMT
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

I have a question concerning filter matting material(DLS material).

First, is it beneficial to use it in a staged canister filter?
If so how much is needed?  Which stage should it be in?

Second, were is the best place to get said material?  Is it avalable 
in hardware stores etc...

I'm sorry that there is no subject label on the listing.  This is my second
try on the news group and still can't figure out how to give it a label.

                     Thanks in advance for any help
                        Brian Nissen
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: faith@wam.umd.edu (Jay)
Subject: Aquaclear in Marine Aquarium
Organization: University of Maryland, College Park
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 13:08:23 GMT


OK,  This is the deal:

I am about to move back to school and I am taking my aquarium with me (75 gal).
I also have a 29 gal but that is staying at home. I want to start a marine 
aquarium but I want to spend as less money as possible. I have a 300 Aquaclear
filter.  Will this be good enough to sustain life?  I would hate to have my fish
die. I didn't want to spend alot on a filter.

What do you think? ...............  Thanks.     Jerome!


From: booth@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (George Booth)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 18:18:21 GMT
Subject: Re: Hurricane Andrews Damage
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria

I heard from the local fish store that their plant supplier received
heavy damage and won't be shipping for awhile.  Also, the source
of live brine shrimp (the warm water variety) lost the roof to their
building and won't be shipping for awhile, either.  Sorry I don't know
the names of the places, but the shopkeepers like to keep that info
secret. 

-------
George
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:4822 rec.aquaria:6972 sci.aquaria:1315
From: drallen@convex.csd.uwm.edu (Derek R Allen)
Subject: Micron Fileter/Magnum 350
Originator: drallen@convex.csd.uwm.edu
Organization: Computing Services Division, University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 15:41:06 GMT

I just bought a Magnum 350 cannister filter and have a question for you all.
My 55 gal marine tank is sparsely populated (3 small fish) and has IMHO very
good water (amonia=0; nitrates/nitrites=0;ph=8.3) it currently just has
one of the penguin 330's (biowheel gimmick) and UGF.  The Magnum came with
both a micron cartridge (used with or without diatomaceous earth) and
a standard carbon filter.  The question is: 'Which of these two filter
options should I set up?'  I have not turned it on yet because i thought
i'd ask here first.  The penguin provides charcoal filtration so I am
not sure whether more would be superfluous.  Further, I'm not sure
whether running the micron filter only is a great idea. help, please!
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: wkb@cbnews.cb.att.com (wm.keith.brummett)
Subject: Re: Penguin Power Filters....
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 01:07:00 GMT


    In article <1992Aug21.120844.42482@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu>,
    thompson@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu writes:
    > 
    > I was just wondering if anyone out there has had much experience with     
    > penguin power filters (the ones with the BioWheel and supposed wet/dry 
    > filtration).  ...

    I have one model 300, one model 160, and two model 110 penguins.  All of
    them have.  I use them on freshwater and marine tanks.
    They are good-looking (IMHO), indestructable, and easy to use.  However,
    the bio-wheels stop turning if the water flow decreases (clogged intake,
    dirty cartridge, etc., or if the wheel bearings become encrusted with
    scale, salt, dirt, or whatever (used in a marine tank, penguins do pick
    up some salt creep which is very visible on the black plastic).  All in
    all, I'm not convinced that the bio-wheels are much more than a gimmick;
    but, they probably don't hurt.  BTW, I used penguins before the 'wheels
    came along, and I liked them then, too.

    > Do penguins supply sufficient biological filtration?

    I personally don't think any cartridge-type power filter should be
    counted upon for biological filtration.  After all, you periodically
    throw out the entire filter when you change cartridges (the 300 uses two
    cartridges, so it's less a problem there).  I use the penguins as
    supplemental mecahnical and chemical (carbon) filters.  The tanks they
    are used on also have one or more other filters such as RF-UGFs, protein
    skimmers, trickle filters, or what have you.  Also, when I don't feel I
    need the carbon, I slit open the top of the cartridge and empty it.  I
    then use the empty cartridge, rinsing it under hot tap water every now
    and then to clean it.  I've used the same cartridge for many months this
    way.

    -- Keith

-- 
    | (614) 860-3187         Copyright (C) 1992, by       AT&T, Room 3B202 |
    | att!cblph!wkb  or,     W.K. Brummett and AT&T      6200 E. Broad St. |
    | wkb@cblph.att.com       All rights reserved.      Columbus, OH 43213 |
    `----------------------------------------------------------------------'
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: fred@mks.com (Fred Kratky)
Subject: Re: [F][P] What's in my Fe homebrew?
Organization: Mortice Kern Systems Inc., Waterloo, Ontario, CANADA
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 15:34:18 GMT

In article <1992Sep3.144352.19477@wam.umd.edu> harold@wam.umd.edu (James B. Harold) writes:
>
>Hi all.  I've gotta question:
>
>For some time now, I've been mixing small batches of Wymex
>FW trace elements and Wymex Fe together in a small bottle.  That 
>way I just add a few ml a day of the mix.  A few months
>ago I started using chelated Fe from a nursery instead of
>the Wymex (mixed up to form the same concentration as the
>Wymex).  The bag swears it's just Fe (it does have some

1) a chelating (sp?) agent is added to the Fe to help keep it in
   suspension

2) I believe that they ph ballance the liquid to help keep the trace
   elements in suspension (this is a guess based on the contents on
   the Sera Florina bottle and my experiences)

The cottony stuff is probably some of your trace elements coming out of
suspension.


-- 
     ||  // // ,'/~~\'   Fred Kratky		fred@mks.com 
    /||/// //|' `\\\     Mortice Kern Systems Inc.     (519) 884-2251
   / | //_// ||\___/     35 King St. N., Waterloo, Ont., Can. N2J 2W9
0_/
From: hort@ui2.ems.cdc.com (Mark Hortman)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: RO water
Date: 4 Sep 92 17:42:12 GMT
Organization: Empros Systems International, a division of Control Data

I am building a house and am going to install a system of automatic water
changing.  The only problem is how do I put it in with an 25 GPD RO unit.
I was thinking about letting the RO unit fill up a rubber trash can with
the water, and then pumping that water to my tank.  Does anyone know if that
water in the trash can will go bad, and if so, how do I keep it fresher?

Thanks
Mark Hortman
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:4739 rec.aquaria:6810