HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: essbaum@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (Alexander Essbaum)
Subject: Re: TH700R4 questions
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 20:16:26 GMT
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM Rochester

In article <1992Oct16.182259.29367@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>, srhineha@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Shawn L Rhinehart) writes:
|> In article <3055@contex.contex.com> frank@marvin.contex.com (Frank Perdicaro) w
|> rites:
|> >I have been thinking about installing a TH700R4 in my 82 Cutlass
|> >Supreme.  I am wondering if anybody can add some facts to my data
|> >base.
|> >
|> >I know I need to move the tranny support, and get a new drive shaft.
|> >I know that I need to get the 6.2L diesel control module for the TH700
|> >lockup, and I know that I need to wire the braking unlock as shown in
|> >Hot Rod a while back.  I also know I need to buy the BOP to Chevy
|> >tranny kit from TCI.  Yeah, and my shifter will not read correctly.
|> >
|> >
|> >Please do not tell me about the TH200R4 -- it will not stand up to the
|> >torque I am making.
|> >--
|> >This is my first reply to an article so be gentle. I have an 83 Turbo Regal 
|> that has been "slightly" modified. As a result, I tend to eat 2004R's at a rate
|> of about 2 or 3 per year. I am getting really tired of replacing them with $100
|> junkyard specials. What I want to know is, is the 700R4 really that much 
|> better, or would I be better off to just spend the money and get a 2004R 
|> rebuilt? Any and all information is appreciated. Thank's !

wow. i would say that you should spend the $400 or so for a decent TH350
or (better yet) TH400.  no clue about mounting considerations, but at least
they won't break.

BTW.  i've got an '84 Impala ex-police car with a 350V8 and TH700R4.  i'm
not kind to the transmission and it's survived >150,000 miles (60,000 by me).
i've got a trans fluid cooler, though.  no problems despite lots of manual
shifting, towing (sometimes over 5000lbs), etc.

axel
From: lihan@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Bruce G. Bostwick)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: 86 Dodge Colt, joys and woes
Date: 11 Oct 92 20:20:52 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin, Austin TX


Well, I've become 'expert' in the care and surgery of another car --
the 1986 Dodge (nee Mitsubishi) Colt.  My wife brought it home about
two weeks ago with the ominous message 'it's making a funny noise' and
it didn't take me long to notice the rod rattle she meant.

Quick teardown -- the sump comes off fairly easily -- revealed #2 and
#3 rod bearings had spun.  Tried the quick fix of replacing the rod
bearings and discovered only then that the rod journals had been
reduced about .012" by the spinning.

To make a long story short, I now know how to remove every major
drivetrain component in a Colt, up to and including the KM170
transmission, by myself with only moderately advanced shade-tree
mechanic tools.  I almost have the wounded crankshaft out (momentarily
stymied by a particularly hairy problem of torque wrench geometry..)
and will be hearing the (hopefully not too bad) news from the machine
shop sometime later in the week; hopefully .020" will do it for the
rod pins (and hope to God the thing isn't bent or, worse, cracked!).

Anyone know of any more odd surprises awaiting me?  I have indeed
discovered that the Colt is a weird beast (and I've seen Saabs inside
so I know weird!) but any specific cautions about particular things to
do on reassembly would be more than helpful.  For instance, is moly
assembly grease all right for the outboard CV shaft splines or should
I use wheel grease?  Am I in any danger if I grease the wheel lug
threads to prevent galling for the next time I have to pull a wheel?

A couple of things of my own to propagate:  1) Don't panic if you
happen to undertorque and lose your CV-shaft hub nuts -- the CV shafts
WILL NOT just fly loose (like you have to disassemble the whole front
end to get them out!).  2) The engine (in the '86 at least) will
indeed rest on its own mounts with the transmission removed, if you
were looking at it and wondering.  3) The crankshaft pulley is an
EXTREME pain in the rear to remove, especially if all you have is 1/2"
extenders and the hole in the frame rail is not EXACTLY lined up with
the axis of the crankshaft.  4) Haynes ain't kidding when they say the
CV shaft nuts are extremely tight -- had to use an old Mazda
driveshaft as a cheater ... thank God for Craftsman tools ...

-- 
<BGB>
lihan@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu        /     "I can't complain,
(really Bruce Bostwick)        /   but sometimes I still do"
from the great state of TEXAS /         --Joe Walsh--
From: boutzev@lcaohp2.epfl.ch (Lubomir Boutzev)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: WATER Injection Any Users ?!
Keywords: injection, engines, cars
Date: 13 Oct 92 16:30:35 GMT
Reply-To: boutzev@lcaohp1.epfl.ch
Organization: AI crazed sickos.

Time ago while I had enoughfree time to run trough the news
I wondered whatever became of the water injection and 
you folks from the net provided me with your 
impressions. Thanks a lot because this urged me into a great
decision:
	-I'm about to build one.....

There are at least some details I'll like to know from the ones
using this trick on their cars and here I go:

-What are the advantages of the water injection ?
-Does the water injection harm the engine even if all parameters are set OK ?
-Did the milleage increase ? Or decrease ?
-What's about the emissions ?

Any other comments are welcome BECAUSE I've already ordered the
injectors, pump and other hardware and I'm currently working
on the control unit.
Live testings are intended before the end of the year and this is about the
non-return point beyond which I can either obtain some 
extras or screw up my engine....
I'm planning to run some tests on a 80cc 4-stroke Briggs&Stratton petrol
engine currently fitted on a generator. 
The success of these tests will condition the final implementation on my 
LandCruiser (Diesel, 4.0L TurboCharged).

Thanks in advance !
From: manin@nubis.rutgers.edu (Dmitrii Manin)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: to POSTAL JEEP owners
Summary: Does anybody have experience with electric problems in Postal Jeep?
Keywords: postal,jeep,problems,electric
Date: 14 Oct 92 18:13:27 GMT
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

Guys, I have a '75 PJ which runs great, but has electric problems.
Namely, sometimes brake lights go out (and return in some time), and
now I have ampermeter, thermometer and fuel indicat dead
simultaneously.

Does anybody know a how I can find the poor connection using a tester?
The good hint is that the three things are all dead at the same time.
Unfortunately I have no diagram of the circuit.  

Also I'd be grateful to anybody who explains how does the fuel
indicatior operate and where is its probe situated.

Thanks in advance
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: white@watsci.uwaterloo.ca (Brad White)
Subject: Help and Advice Please - Moly Gold?
Originator: white@watsci.uwaterloo.ca
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1992 22:08:03 GMT


I have a question that perhaps someone could help me with.  I was recently
approached by someone to sell on a part time basis a product called Moly
Gold.  It is an oil supplement like Slick 50 (please no flames on whether
these supplements are good or not in general).  Has anyone heard of Moly
Gold?  Apparently they also have supplements for the differential,
transmission, and fuel.  Instead of using teflon, (which apparently pollutes
when heated in the engine (???) ) it uses molybdemum disulfide.  But you
need to add it at *every * oil / fuel/etc change.  Has anyone heard of this
product? He said that 90% of the Indy cars use it.....
Any help would be appreciated.
Brad
From: sharen@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com (Sharen A. Rund)
Subject: Re: when to shift?
Organization: Lockheed Missiles and Space Co.
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 92 21:42:31 GMT

In article <1bn58fINNsv7@bigboote.WPI.EDU> damong@wpi.WPI.EDU (Damon Francis Gentile) writes:
>In article <92290.111021QXF1@psuvm.psu.edu> <QXF1@psuvm.psu.edu> writes:
>>Hey everyone, I've always been told that shift up early will help to get better
>>gas milage.  Some say shift at 2000 rpm, an article in a magazine even said
>>at 1500 rpm.  I believe shift up earlier will give better gas economy.  The
>>question is, does this have any negative effect to the engine other than lesser
>>performance?  Carbon deposition, for example, is one thing that jumps into my
>>mind.
>>
>>Ching
>
>	you can upshift all you want, but by upshifting so soon you miss
>out on the peak torque range for the engine. you also put a _lot_ of 
>strain on the main bearings when you lug the engine, and they are not
>very fun to replace.
>
>Damon

besides, if you listen to your car/engine it will tell you when to shift,
but you have to learn to listen for it and hear it and I'm afraid its
hard to explain what you're listening for, but if you shift too soon,
you'll also hear that, the car will kind of lug...

-- 
________________       __        ________________   "They that can give up
\_________      \     /_ \      /      _________/  essential liberty to 
 \_________      \_____/  \____/      _________/  obtain temporary safety
  \___________________      __________________/  deserve neither liberty 
                     /______\                   nor safety."  
ALL disclaimers apply ....                           --Benjamin Franklin
	  
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: alter@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (Eric Alter)
Subject: Re: electronic rustproofing.
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 12:35:17 GMT
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM Rochester

What needs to be done to perform the method of elec. rustproofing using
zinc metal?  What do I do to get this to work?

-- 

Eric Alter		alter@rchland.vnet.ibm.com
IBM Corporation		Rochester, Mn
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: colfelt@ucsu.Colorado.EDU (Andrew BW Colfelt)
Subject: Re: oxygen sensor
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 05:44:26 GMT

welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty) writes:

>O2 sensors need to warm up before they take effect.  single wire
>sensors take a couple of minutes; three wire sensors take effect
>in about 30 seconds.  most well designed fool injection systems
>will run in their open loop mode for a brief period of time while
>warming up before they start to make use of the sensor data.  

Hmmm.  Perhaps the above explains a problem I've
had off-and-on for years:

'83 SAAB 900 turbo:
This car has a single conductor O2 sensor that has not
been replaced in the last 75,000 miles, to my knowledge,
and may not have been replaced during the previous 50,000
miles before I owned it, i.e. maybe the orig. equip.

Cold start after warm-up:cool-down cycle.  Engine runs
real rough (like 3/4 cyls.) and will idle at ~3 rpm unless
light pedal pressure is given.

After 5-15 seconds everything smooths out, and the
rough to smooth transition is very noticeable.

Problem will not return unless warm-up:cool down
cycle is repeated.

This problem occurs with the highest frequency when the
cool-down period is relatively short, though long enough
to fully cool the system.  If the cool-down period is
very long (over night) then the problem is less likely.
Cool-down from stinking hot further increases probability.

Are we talking o2 sensor here, or injectors, or what?



-- 
Andrew          
Colfelt@ucsu.Colorado.EDU
--
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,alt.autos.antique
From: wlsmith@valve.heart.rri.uwo.ca (Wayne Smith)
Subject: Spark plug specs and old cars
Organization: The John P. Robarts Research Institute, London, Ontario
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 13:54:31 GMT

A typical sparkplug (Champion) goes something like RN12YC.
The R is for resistor, the C for copper.
Can anyone explain the other parameters?

My car lists an N14Y plug (65 Dodge, slant-6).

Can someone explain why resistor plugs are used now, and how the
added resistance (I measured the resistance of RN12YC to be 30k)
effects the whole ignition system? (a 25 year old ignition system)

Could I use an N11YC plug?  What is the best available match today for
an N14Y plug?
From: jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: electronic rustproofing.
Date: 14 Oct 92 19:18:11 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.

avk@hafnium.cchem.berkeley.edu (Tony Konashenok) writes:

>Yes, this method-cathode protection - is absolutely safe, legal and convenient.

Cathodic protection with a lumped cathode is a complete and total sham for
automobile use unless one can somehow cause all parts of the body to be
in contact with an electrolyte.  This is, of course, impossible.  If one
reads the extremely fine print on these grossly overpriced "corrosion 
protectors", they note that parts to be protected must be coated with
an extra-cost conductive film.  What a fraud

John

-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC               |Interested in high performance mobility?  
Performance Engineering Magazine (TM) |
Marietta, Ga                         |Interested in high tech and computers? 
jgd@dixie.com                        |Write me about PE Magazine
Need Usenet public Access in Atlanta?  Write Me for info on Dixie.com.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Inexpensive engine pre-oilers
From: stubbs@hawk.cs.ukans.edu (Jerry Stubbs)
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 19:47:39 GMT
Organization: University of Kansas Computer Science Dept


If you wouldn't trust the simple technology that would make this possible
it seems you would have little faith in the majority of maodern automotive
systems, and even less in more advanced machines, like calculators.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: "Gary A. Woodward" <p00140@psilink.com>
Subject: electronic rustproofing?
Organization: Performance Systems Int'l
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 18:38:39 GMT
X-Mailer: PSILink (3.2)

I bought one of the electronic rustproofing systems.  It cost me $75.00.
It has two blocks that appear to be carbon-like with a single conductor 
wire attached.  There is a brain(?) that has a + and a - wire attached. 
There is also a red led to show it is hooked up (positive feed back for 
customer and a 14ma drain prob.).  I called the manuf. they said that 
the unit, when the paint is scratched, does not allow the bare metal to 
bond with oxygen molecules to form rust.  They have a picture of a piece 
of bare steel in a fish tank filled with salt water that has one of the 
carbon blocks hot glued to it and it appears bright and not oxidized. 
I have seen the magnesium and zinc sacificials, they seem to work.
Is the electronic device I've described based on sound theory?  I am 
interested in your replys to the net.

thanks.
gw
From: sheriffp@Software.Mitel.COM (Peter Sheriff)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Brake pad replacement : advice sought
Date: 8 Oct 92 16:37:44 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Mitel. Kanata (Ontario). Canada.


     Not much to changing brake pads. If you change shoes on drum brakes,
one thing to remember is that there are two different types of shoe in 
the box. One of each pair is called a leading shoe and is the one with
a shorter piece of brake material on it. This shoe is placed closer to  
the front of the car. If you get these the wrong way round, the brakes
tend to bind.
     It is also a good idea to push the pedal a couple of times to center
the brake shoes before adjusting the rear brakes (with the drum on of course)
after the shoes have been replaced.

                               Pete
From: benj@cbnewsb.cb.att.com (ben.e.jones)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: fan / heater chev
Date: 15 Oct 92 15:37:50 GMT
Organization: AT&T

1977 chev ....heater fan won't run......been some time getting back
on the air with this problem ...but been on swing shifts..didn't
have time to try to fix / replace my fan switch...well I went
and got a replacement for 14.00 and replaced the (maybe bad one)
not too big of a job...happy with myself that it went so well,
except the damn fan still won't come on.....have the right replace-
ment for it ....so now Iam back to square one....started to look
at terminals coming off the heater motor assy under the hood,the
one I looked at didn't look good ...so I'll try cleaning all the
terminals ...whole bank of them in a orange terminal block assy.
Sorry I didn't get right on it Al so u would have a answer but
working all hours made it hard to take the time....
will let u know what I find...hate to take it in and have the guy
clean some terminals....will take it in only if cleaning all 
elect terminals don't clear the problem....cause I still have the
same problem with my Toy.....could be that resistor on the motor
assy on the Toy .....starting to get cold so I have to get my ...
in gear .talk at u later.
Ben
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com (Bob Rusk)
Subject: Re: Live axle vs. IRS
Reply-To: rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com
Organization: Harris Computer Systems Division
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 15:42:53 GMT
	<1992Oct6.034025.13839@sol.UVic.CA> <81572@ut-emx.uucp>

On 13 Oct 92 01:49:54 GMT, rodder@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Jon D. Rodder) wrote:

>In article <1992Oct6.034025.13839@sol.UVic.CA> atovorni@engr.UVic.CA writes:
>>If there was one thing to be changed on the '82 to '92 F-cars, it would 
>>be to ditch the live axle and adopt a Corvette rear-end setup. Guess
>>we'll have to wait another ten years...

>Wait until the F-cars do what the Z and Rx-7 did?  I can remember when
>the Z and the rx7 were fairly affordable cars.  Look at them today.

Ummmm ... Didn't the original 240Z already have IRS?  Nissan may have
moved the Z-cars up-market, but they didn't do it by adding IRS.

--
--
 Bob Rusk
 rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com
 My thoughts, probably not Harris'.

Organization: Junior, Math/Computer Science, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 13:22:49 -0400 
From: Stefan E Sherwood <ssa7+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Broken pipe on turbo car

I have an '84 Dodge Colt Turbo which has a hole in the cooling pipe that
goes from the exhaust into the intake manifold.  I talked to one guy who
said that this should be fixed soon so that there is no damage done by
inadequate cooling.  I was just wondering if the problem could also
affect the turbocharger since the exhaust air is also used in the turbo.

SES
From: joseph@c2a.crd.ge.com (joseph)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Brake pad replacement : advice sought
Date: 7 Oct 92 17:53:25 GMT
Reply-To: joseph@c2a.crd.ge.com (joseph)
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Distribution: usa
Organization: GE Research



I am auto-mechanically challenged, in the sense
that the most complicated jobs that I have undertaken are
changing the oil/filter, and changing the spark plugs.  Now
I am in need of getting new brake pads for my MPV.
I would have attempted to do it myself without a second thought
if it were not the brakes and hence, a safety issue
for the travelling public.

I have looked at the haynes manual and the mazda shop
manual.  The job does not look very complicated.  Is there
anything that you all can tell me - such as common novice
mistakes/errors or anything else you know ?  Please feel
free to tell me that I shouldn't attempt this if that is your
opinion.

If you think this is too mundane for the readership of this group,
please e-mail to me at joseph@c2a.crd.ge.com

Thanks a bunch in advance
james joseph                joseph@c2a.crd.ge.com
From: spidell@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 16:25:39 GMT
Subject: Re: oxygen sensor
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

WRT:

> What causes them to go bad?  Gunk buildup on the sensor?  Slow
>poisoning from contaminants?  Erosion?
>
From the August, 1992 _Popular Mechanics_ section on auto care:

"A common cause of sensor failure is poisoning-the most likely
candidates being lead, carbon and silicon.  When one of these elements
coats the ceramic, it no longer gets oxygen and the sensor either
fails completely or gives erroneous readings.  Excessive oil 
consumption can also cause failure as the burned oil deposits plug
the sensor."

regards,
bs

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: elmquist@pez.ssesco.com (Chris Elmquist)
Subject: Re: Spark Plugs
Organization: SSESCO
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 17:53:24 GMT

In article <26367@oasys.dt.navy.mil> bense@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ronald Bense) writes:
>In rec.autos.tech, awds_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (ClarkKent) writes:
>>saw Champion Gold plugs.  I sure they're not solid gold, nor that
>>much more expensive than platinum.  Gold's a great conductor, right?
>>Any thoughts on these?
>

Or how about a brand of plugs called SplitFire..?  They apparently have
the electrode split or notched to allow the arc to be better exposed to
the fuel...   They claim all sorts of performance and fuel economy
enhancements... as well as a 30 day money back guarantee.  Gimick ?

Now that I have my O2 sensor replaced... :-)  I'm looking at other
tune up issues as well...

Chris

Chris Elmquist, N0JCF
elmquist@SSESCO.com
73267.2711@Compuserve.com
(612)342-0003@work (8am-5pm CST6CDT)
From: pwu@tang.ai.mit.edu (Peng Wu)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: What is the air pump used for?
Date: 9 Oct 92 15:26:44 GMT
In-reply-to: wesf@boi.hp.com's message of 8 Oct 92 18:27:08 GMT


     Running an engine lean will increase the CO level, running the engine
     rich will increase the Hydrocarbon level.

I can understand why running rich increases HC.  Can someone explain why
running lean increases CO?  It is counter-intuitive to me.
From: rodder@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Jon D. Rodder)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Live axle vs. IRS
Date: 13 Oct 92 01:49:54 GMT
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin, Austin TX

In article <1992Oct6.034025.13839@sol.UVic.CA> atovorni@engr.UVic.CA writes:
>If there was one thing to be changed on the '82 to '92 F-cars, it would 
>be to ditch the live axle and adopt a Corvette rear-end setup. Guess
>we'll have to wait another ten years...

Wait until the F-cars do what the Z and Rx-7 did?  I can remember when
the Z and the rx7 were fairly affordable cars.  Look at them today.
The F-cars fill a niche in the current market, along with the Mustang.
How much more would you be willing to pay for a Camaro with IRS?  How
many other people would be willing to pay a few thousand extra for it?
I doubt the average Camaro/Firebird owner would.  


-- 
--=< Jon D. Rodder ----- rodder@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu >=-- 
    \    IRC-Op at tramp.cc.utexas.edu (Rodder)   /
     \    89 Jeep Wrangler - 258/PIECE OF JUNK!  / 
      \        79 Rx-7 - 12A/Holley 4bbl        / 
       \________67 Camaro RS - 350/4spd________/ 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos