HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: pardo@cs.washington.edu (David Keppel)
Subject: Re: The Future of the Bike
Organization: Computer Science & Engineering, U. of Washington, Seattle
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 93 00:38:13 GMT

>[Cogged kevlar drive belts.]

Bridgestone has used them for over 5 years on their Picnica folding
bicycles.  They are clean, use an ingenious self-tensioning device to
keep them from slipping under load, and cannot be shifted.  They are
typically used in conjunction with a coaster brake or N-speed hub.  I
do not know their efficiency or weight.

	;-D on  ( Belt your kid, belt your bike )  Pardo
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: mamacdonald@mta.ca (  )
Subject: Re: WD-40 To Clean Chains???
Reply-To: mamacdonald@mta.ca
Organization: Mount Allison U, Sackville, N.B. Canada 
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1993 23:11:44 GMT

In article <C1DL06.Fqz@ecf.toronto.edu>, tee@ecf.toronto.edu (TEE LUNS) writes:
>In article <1993Jan23.155237.1@vax.sonoma.edu> vannuysd@vax.sonoma.edu writes:
>>In either Bicycling or MBA, I read an article that suggested using WD-40
>>to clean your bike chain.  I tried it and really liked the results.  But
>>in the current California Bicyclist, there is an article by a mechanic
>>who tosses off a warning NOT to use WD-40 without giving any rationale.
>>I liked the ease and effectiveness of WD-40.  Anybody know where this guy
>>is coming from in warning us off of it?                                        
>
>    I think the concern is that some people seem to believe that WD-40 is a
>good chain LUBRICANT, which it isn't. For cleaning chains, its great. For
>lubricating, it's pretty worthless.

  This is true... look all you want on the WD40 can and nowhere will you find
the word "lubricate".



Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: cannon@virus.kyoto-u.ac.jp (Kurt Cannon)
Subject: CBR Crank Removal
Organization: Institute of Research for Virus
Distribution: rec.bicycles.tech
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 01:56:50 GMT

I have a set of Cooks Bros. Racing cranks that came on my bike when I
purchased it used at a swap meet last year.  The inner chainring is a
26 tooth and I'd like to switch to a 24.  The problem is that my trusty
sugino crank arm extracting tool(the socket end) won't fit into the 
recessed area, so I can't remove the crankbolts.  Are there tools avail-
able with a smaller outside socket diameter and where do I find them?
From: albelo@aero.org (David J. Albelo)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Chorus F. Derailer Sticks..
Date: 21 Jan 1993 15:29:12 GMT
Organization: The Aerospace Corporation, El Segundo, CA
NNTP-Posting-Host: aerospace.aero.org
Summary: Need technical advice

Hi, I am trying to fix this problem with my front derailer, and I've
run out of ideas. The derailer moves fine when I shift up to the big
ring, but when I go back down to the smaller gears, the derailer moves
a little then stops and I have to reach down and push it to the smaller
ring. I think there is some rust on the washers on one of the axles. I
don't think that it can be disassembled and I don't have any brushes
small enough to get in there. Does anyone have any ideas that could
help?

Thanks
Dave

albelo@aerospace.aero.org
From: flip@sage.cc.purdue.edu (Phillip D. Russell)
Subject: Re: LX DX XT XTR Confusion
Organization: Purdue University Computing Center
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 07:54:37 GMT

In article <C15KoC.L3H@watserv2.uwaterloo.ca> praetzel@maxwell.uwaterloo.ca (Eric Praetzel) writes:
>
>Ex:  LX crank = $65,  XT crank = $126, XTR crank = $160
>
>About pricing.  Nashbar usually only carries LX and XT.  One reason for not
>having lower groups is that it is not worth it.  LX only costs a bit more than
>the cheaper stuff and works better.  LX parts are generally 50% more expensive
>than buying dept. store steel junk that you get on bottom of the line bikes.

Problem is Nashbar only carries XT. It'd be cheaper to buy a new bike
that try to replace parts after winter commuting with XT parts.

Flip


-- 
         __@    Phillip "Flip" Russell  | Purdue University      __@
  _ -_,_-\<,_   flip@sage.cc.purdue.edu | West Lafayette, IN  _ -\<,_
 (_)/---|/-(_)           The important things...             (_)|/-(_)
                        My bikes and my Macintosh
From: ovr@lk-hp-4.hut.fi (Otto-Ville Ronkainen)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: The Future of the Bike
Date: 24 Jan 1993 13:47:41 GMT
Organization: L{nsi-Uudenmaan Keisarillinen Polyteknillinen Koulu
Distribution: inet
Reply-To: ovr@snakemail.hut.fi (Otto-Ville Ronkainen)
NNTP-Posting-Host: lk-hp-4.hut.fi

In article <1993Jan20.043013.2708@news.unomaha.edu> kkrueger@cwis.unomaha.edu (Kurt Krueger) writes:
>I'd also like to see the spelling of "derailleur" revised.  I've never had
>any problems spelling it, but I'm clearly in the minority, judging by the
>messages I read. :)

How about reserving the word 'derailleur' for French (or European)
derailleurs? Such feats of mechanical engineering as the Shitmano
Positron could be called 'derailures', whereas your average
Japanese derailleur would be called simply a 'derailer'.
--
Ott-Vill R______________________
ovr@snakemail.hut.fi
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: junger@rsg1.er.usgs.gov (John Unger)
Subject: Re: Wheel Wonderings
Organization: U.S. Geological Survey, Reston VA
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 15:29:33 GMT

This discussion on spokes and wheels has brought back faint memories
of someone actually making kevlar spokes. As I recall, they were (are)
completely flexible and consisted of kevlar threads connected to
metal end pieces.  I would imagine that the major problems with such
spokes would be a strong bond between the kevlar and the metal end
pieces and having some way of preventing the threads from twisting
when tightening the spokes.

Has anyone ever actually seen or used such spokes?

cheers -- John Unger
From: phuar@csv.warwick.ac.uk (Mr T Moxey)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Crankset weights.
Date: 24 Jan 1993 18:00:54 -0000
Organization: Computing Services, University of Warwick, UK
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: caraway.csv.warwick.ac.uk


	The weights for the shimano cranks are as follows...
XTR	680g
XT	730g
DX	740g
LX	701g


tim
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tthiel@cs.uiuc.edu (Terry Thiel)
Subject: Re: Still no comments about Waveflow saddles?
Organization: University of Illinois, Dept. of Comp. Sci., Urbana, IL
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 15:08:11 GMT

E5EM <E5EM@UNB.CA> writes:
>    Has no one yet tried a waveflow saddle? I'd definitly like to
>try one but don't know of a place in Canada to get one. Someone
>listed a mail order number but it was no good from Canada. In one of
>the latest issues of BG, they were reviewing some bikes, one which
>had the new waveflow ti saddle---it looked like a flite with a small
>gel patch on it (could be comfy). If anyone has tried waveflow,
>please post your opinion on it. Thanks.

This subject has come up before and about everyone who posted on it liked
the Waveflo.  I've bought five of them so far, one for my wife, one for my
brother and three for me.  I think they are great saddles and very 
comfortable.  I disdained Gel type saddles for along time until I
tried a Waveflo.  Of course it's not really Gel but a liquid that moves
into the shape of your butt.  I don't think they deal mail order though.
-Terry
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: andrei@namao.uucp (Andrei Chichak)
Subject: Re: removing wheel hop (help!)
Organization: University Of Alberta, Edmonton Canada
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 17:20:45 GMT

markm@iris.polymer.uakron.edu (Mark Alan Matties) writes:

>i've got a hop in the rear wheel of my trek 820 (sorry, i don't remember the 
>manufacturer or width off hand, but it's the wide "default" wheel that comes with the
>bike - nothing too fancy) and was wondering whether someone could advise me on
>banging it out. i don't think that it's very bad, but i'm getting pretty tried
>of the pulsing when i brake. (i really can't afford a new wheel.)

>thanks,
>msquared
>-- 

>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>mark alan matties			u of akron
>markm@iris.polymer.uakron.edu		dept of polymer science
>"aoibheann beatha an scola/ire"		akron, ohio, usa

sounds like you have a flat spot in the rim, not a hop (hop is usually caused
by the rim being eccentric with the hub (due to spoke tention problems)).
A flat spot it caused by a hard radial blow to the rim causing distortion
in the radial direction with an accompanied buldging of the sides of the rim.
This can be pulled out with a rim pulling press
at a good bike store, or if you are really cheap you can hammer on the
sides of the rim so that it ends up being the same width as the rest of
the rim.  This won't get rid of the flat spot but it will reduce the brake 
pulsing.   If the problem is just a bit of un-true-ness in the wheel then
get it trued.

Andrei Chichak
andrei@namao.ucs.ualberta.ca
From: sjm3@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (SALEM JON MAZZAWY)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Phil Wood sealed BB in a MTB?
Date: 22 Jan 93 00:41:16 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

>Can I swap the BB out of the road frame and put
>it into the MTB frame, or do I need a BB with
>a longer axle?  I think the one I have might be
>a 108mm axle.  Does that sound right?  I'm pretty
>sure that the Phil BB has axle lengths up to 113mm.
>
>Altermately, does anyone have a different brand
>of sealed MTB BB that they would recommend?

One of my friends has a Phil bb with something like a 124mm axle.   That would
be wide enough for almost any bike.   As for other bb's, I like the White
Industries one.   It is easy to install, has ajustable chain line, and is
availible with cromo or tit axle.   If you do get one, make sure that you put
a plastic water seal in with a lot of grease.   This make the bearings even
more water resistant.
                                            Salem
From: A1WB@UNB.CA (A1WB)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: LOW ROLLING RESISTANCE TIRES
Date: 21 Jan 93 16:13:53 GMT
Organization: The University of New Brunswick

I'M BUILDING A CAR FOR THE SUPER MILEAGE FUEL ECONOMY COMPETITION
(ONE OF THOSE LIGHT WEIGHT SPECIALTY SINGLE PASSENGER VEHICLES)
AND AM LOOKING FOR THE HIGHEST PRESSURE, LOWEST ROLLING RESISTANCE
BICYCLE TIRE ON THE MARKET.  DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY IDEAS?

BRUCE MORTON
From: v206gb6c@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (My stuffed shark is eating my toenail clippings)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: WD-40 To Clean Chains???
Date: 26 Jan 93 17:46:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <2B64E2F3.12710@news.service.uci.edu>, iglesias@draco.acs.uci.edu (Mike Iglesias) writes...
>In article <1993Jan24.231144.18214@jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca> mamacdonald@mta.ca writes:
>>  This is true... look all you want on the WD40 can and nowhere will you find
>>the word "lubricate".
> 
>The can I have has the word "lubricate" in several places.  The can is
>probably 5-7 years old, so maybe they changed it.
> 

    Now that WD-40 has seen the wisdom to advertise in bike mags.  I have seen
the word lubricate in their ad text, though the can I have does not have the
word on it.

PauL M SchwartZ  (-Z-)  |  Follow men's eyes as they look to the skies
v206gb6c@ubvms.BitNet   |         the shifting shafts of shining 
pms@geog.buffalo.edu    |        weave the fabric of their dreams
pms@acsu.buffalo.edu    |                    - RUSH -
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech,rec.bicycles.marketplace
From: zeke@chiton.ucsd.edu (Rob Scott)
Subject: Re: Pulstar hubs?
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech
Summary: Pulstar's good for suspension!
Organization: Scripps Institution of Oceanography, UC San Diego
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1993 06:22:23 GMT

In article <1993Jan21.021123.1976@netcom.com> tomk@netcom.com (Thomas H. Kunich) writes:
>>
>First you have to ask yourself what you intend to do with the finished
>wheel. Since you 1) are using it on a mountain bike (so -- fat tires) and
>2) a suspended mountain bike to boot, there is very little you gain by going
>to Pulsars. 
>

Excuse me, but could you justify this sweeping generalization, please?


>The straight spokes are a good idea on bikes that are owned by spoke breakers
>and people who like trick parts.
>
>But properly built wheels on mountain bikes rarely have spoke failures.
>
>If you are looking for a lighter wheel you could get lighter hubs. If you
>are looking for stronger hubs the Pulsar might be for you. But for a mountain
>bike? I doubt it.
>
>Pulsar hubs look like a good deal on road bikes and on unsuspended mountain
>bike used by people that like to use high pressure tires.
>

Again, please justify your statements.

The Pulstar hubs are an elegant and well thought out solution to several
problems.  First, if your bike is suspended, the Pulstar hubs (as well as
others such as the Ringle or American Classic) have much larger axles than 
stock hubs.  The larger axles help to prevent independent leg action of shock 
absorbers caused by axle flex during cornering and other times when 
significant torsion is placed across the forks.  

The second advantage is that with straight spokes a broken spoke on the cluster
side of the rear can be replaced without disassembling the cluster.  Spokes
do break on mountain bikes, usually because of interaction with a piece of
nature (rock, stick, cow). 

Pulstar has recently come out with straight 15 gauge spokes.  Since much of
the requirement for a butted 14-15-14 spoke is to have additional material
to withstand the stress at the elbow, and the straight spoke eliminates this 
requirement by eliminating the elbow.

The Pulstar hubs could be a bit lighter.  I understand from a local 
wheelbuilder that they are looking at ways to remove additional material
during the machining process without weakening the hub design.  They are
not significantly heavier or lighter than the Ringle Super Bubba when
built.

I'm planning on purchasing a set of Rock Shox Mag 21s in the next month
or two.  Along with that will be a Pulstar front 32 spoke hub with 15 gauge
spokes.


Rob
                    -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
     Rob Scott, System Administrator for the Marine Physical Laboratory
            Scripps Institution of Oceanography, UC San Diego
    Internet: zeke@mpl.ucsd.edu  Cserve: 76176,637  Voice: (619)534-5503
From: jwgst2+@pitt.edu (James W Gourgoutis)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Spoke Tension by hand
Date: 21 Jan 93 14:46:20 GMT
Organization: University of Pittsburgh

In article <1jlnp2INNebi@hpscit.sc.hp.com> tim%hpcpbla.bri.hp.com@hplb.hpl.hp.com writes:
>I don't know why they do this, it adds work to building a rim, you have to
>bend the spokes and you can never get them straight again, you can't judge
>tension by plucking and if a spoke breaks the one it crosses goes slack as
>well.
>
	Jobst may have something to add to this, but when I built my first
wheel using the instructions in _Effective_Cycling_, it mentioned that 
"lacing" the spokes in this manner (interweaving them as opposed to not)
creates a stronger wheel.  Mr. Forester even went so far as to discuss tieing
the spokes at this point, either with some strong thread and epoxy, or using
solder, if I recall correctly.  This was recommended for heavy riders or for
use on tandems.  
	For what it's worth, I've only *ever* seen one wheel that wasn't laced,
on a cheapo department store bike (the rear wheel).

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
James Gourgoutis       				   
Mechanical Engineering                                O   
University of Pittsburgh                           _ /__,     
e-mail me at:  JWGST2@unixd.cis.pitt.edu          (_) /(_) 
	       or JWGST2@vms.cis.pitt.edu
Thanks!           			   "Why am I so late?  It took me 
					    25 minutes to decide which bike
					    to ride!"--me. 
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-       
-- 
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: twjm8@isuvax.iastate.edu
Subject: Re: XC-PRO shifting. Suggestions sought.
Reply-To: twjm8@isuvax.iastate.edu
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames, Iowa
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 22:09:35 GMT

In article <1993Jan22.202109.28433@colorado.edu>, doug@shako.Colorado.EDU (Doug McKnight) writes:
>
>Hi. My suntour XC-Pro equipped mountain bike  suffers from 
>(in my opinion) rather poor shifting. 
>
> {info on the symptoms deleted}

>The cluster is a 13-28 suntour winner pro which the shop assures me is
>correctly matched with the shifter. I don't know what the chain is. It is
>original MB-1 equipment and again, i am assured by the shop that it's 
>fine for the suntour transmission. 
>
>What is peoples experience of this group? Is there a chain which is known
>to work well with it? 
>
>All comments appreciated---except those saying "buy XTR".
>
>Douglas
>
I had the sam problems when I bought my MB-1.  The dealer replaced the original
Daido chan with a Sachs Sedisport ATB and my shifting is now fine.  I have to
admit, though, I am thinking about replacing the freewheel with a Shimano
Hyperglide one because my old bike with Exage components shifted better under
load.  Other than that one problem, I love the drivetrain.

Dave
From: cs92mjd@cen.ex.ac.uk (M.J.Davis)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Trek 6000  - chain suck - Suntour XC-LTD
Date: 25 Jan 93 11:24:00 GMT
	<C1C5Cw.CIM@ccu.umanitoba.ca>
Organization: Computer Unit. - University of Exeter. UK

On the subject of chains getting tangled in amongst the BB axle, I had this
happen on my SunTour equipped Trek 850 (my first bike!!). Mind you, I was
riding in hub-deep snow at the time, but it was a hell of a job to get out,
and made a real mess of the inner ring.

On my current bike, I have a Mavic inner ring, which basically is a solid
disc with just a hole in the middle just larger than the BB shell. I don't
know if they do this to prevent the chain going in there, but it would 
appear to work.

Just my 0.02,

Mikey D
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: paynter@bnr.ca (Stuart Paynter)
Subject: Re: WD-40 To Clean Chains???
Reply-To: paynter@bnr.ca (Stuart Paynter)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 93 20:23:45 GMT

In article <C1Inzo.C0s@news.cso.uiuc.edu>, bcs33424@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Bryan Siegfried) writes:
|> markm@iris.polymer.uakron.edu (Mark Alan Matties) writes:
|> 
|> >what about wd40 as a cleaning agent then a "real" grease to lube the chain?
|> 
|> 	That's what I've been told to do.  An earlier poster
|> said something about WD40 being easy to use.  How is it easier
|> than using a can of Tri-flo?  Granted, some people dip chains
|> in parrafin or some other, long greasing strategy.  For us
|> Tri-flo types, it doesn't take very long at all.  FYI, I'm
|> not affiliated with Tri-Flo, or even consider it all that
|> special, it's just a good aerosol lubricant.
|> 

Applying Phil Woods Tenacious oil or Pedro's Synlube doesn't take much
time either for that matter.


-Stuart
From: jbrandt@hplred.HPL.HP.COM (Jobst Brandt)
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 01:52:25 GMT
Subject: Re: The Future of the Bike
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories, Palo Alto, CA
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech

Dave Rogers writes:

> Some Harley-Davidson motorcycles have had a cogged Kevlar drive
> belt.  Supposedly with much better reliability than chains and no
> chain lube required.

A Harley Davidson does not have nearly the torque of a bicycle rider
and to make up for that the sprocket is more than a foot in
diameter.  A bicycle has a sprocket slightly larger than an inch in
diameter and room for less than 6mm wide chain.  On top of that,
there is a little more than an inch of width for all the gears.
This is less than the width of the single toothed belt "sprocket" of
the motorcycle.  I think you will also note that such a drive is
not used in racing competition.  This arises from weight,
reliability, and gearing considerations.

I don't see the belt coming to bicycling, at least not for high
performance bicycles.

jobst_brandt@hplabs.hp.com
From: phuar@csv.warwick.ac.uk (Mr T Moxey)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Help.
Date: 25 Jan 1993 13:01:14 -0000
Organization: Computing Services, University of Warwick, UK
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: tansy.csv.warwick.ac.uk


I'm at university in my second year at the moment and am studying physics.
Next year we are allowed to take a year out and get industrial placements, or
research in a higher education lab, please can you give me an idea of how easy
it would be to gain any neccessary visa's and any companies that I could
contact, preferably to do with cycling ( of course).

tim
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: quixote@cix.compulink.co.uk (Aurelio Barranco)
Subject: No subject 
Reply-To: quixote@cix.compulink.co.uk
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1993 13:13:00 +0000

All these comments about LX, DX, XT and XTR made me curious.

What are the relative weights of these items, in particular the
cranksets.


!"*!)"(*!   "I'm sure this looked good when I first did it ? "
????|?|?|   Aikido .. Pharmaceuticals .. and  Cycling.
Aurelio
From: sjm3@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (SALEM JON MAZZAWY)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Locking into Time pedals
Date: 22 Jan 93 00:31:14 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

In article <93020.090121FDHEIENO@UCF1VM.BITNET>, FDHEIENO@UCF1VM.BITNET writes:
>I recently upgraded to '91 Time criterium pedals and racing shoes.  The problem
>is locking into them!  It mabe just me but I'm having a devil of a "time"
>getting a quick lock-in.  Any suggestions??  Oh, the cleats are the newer
>small style.
>
time pedals seem to have a breakin period.   Mine took a few months till it
was really easy to get in.   Once you reach this stage, the performance is
well worth the wait.
                                            Salem
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: P.Etheridge@massey.ac.nz (Phil Etheridge)
Subject: Re: about cantilever brakes
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech
Organization: SMIS, Massey University
Date: Fri, 29 Jan 93 03:30:33 GMT

garethb@hpopd.pwd.hp.com (Gareth Barnard) wrote:
> 
> The rear cantis on my XTR setup are shorter than the front ones. I think most
> canti sets are made this way. Im not sure why though. Maybe the rear ones need
> to be stiffer or the shortness gives increased performance at the rear.

This is not the case with my '91 XT group -- I have my bike in my office
and have just measured front and rear cantis to be the same length.  The
centering screw is even on opposite sides (reinforcing the notion that
they're the same front and rear.)  The only difference I can perceive is
the "straddle" cable from the yoke to the canti the brake cable isn't
clamped to.  The front one has "FRONT" cast into it and the rear one has...
well, work it out for yourself.

--
Phil Etheridge               P.Etheridge@massey.ac.nz
Macintosh Consultant         Phone: +64+6-356-9099 x8689
SMIS, Massey University      Fax:   +64+6-350-5611
Palmerston North, NZ         40*23'S 175*37'E,    GMT+13
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: stork+@cs.cmu.edu (David Zabowski)
Subject: DX Rear Derailleur Adjustment Problem
Organization: School of Computer Science, Carnegie Mellon
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 16:58:53 GMT


Folks,

I recently replaced my chain and rear cassette on my DX equipped bike.
I went from a 12-28 to a 13-30.  Now, I can't shift into the 30.
Actually, I can shift into it but as soon as I release the shifter
(Stupid Fire) it shifts back down to the one below it.  I tried
adjusting the screw which controls how far the derailleur travels and
that didn't work.  Basically, I can easily shift the chain into the
spokes and things still aren't working correctly.  ALL of the rest of
the shifting is perfect.  My best guess is that this is a cable
tensioning problem (it looks like the cable doesn't have enough
tension to hold the derailleur in place after the shift is completed).
Before I mess with the cables and have to re-adjust everything, I
wanted to ask The Net about this.  So, any thoughts?

TIA,

Stork

-- 
-----------------------------------------------
David Zabowski
Research Programmer, School of Computer Science
Carnegie Mellon University, Pittsburgh PA 15213