HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jdonsbac@cvbnet.prime.com (Jeff Donsbach)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Timing Belts on Corrados
Date: 11 Sep 92 20:38:59 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Computervision Corp, Bedford MA

Corrado owners:

	Have any of you replaced your timing belts yet? Does anyone know
what the factory recommendation is on when to change it? I don't remember
anything in the maintenance booklet off hand. I've got about 53K miles,
so I'm thinking it might be getting close to time. I know the 16V engines
should have it changed every 60k or so. Will the Corrado 8V engine suffer
any damage if the timing belt breaks? 

By the way, does anyone have more than 53K on their Corrado or
am I the high milage guinea pig for the rest of you ??

-Jeff

-- 
==========================
Jeff Donsbach, Computervision Corp, 14 Crosby Dr. MS 5-2, Bedford, MA 
UUCP: {decvax|linus|sun}!cvbnet!jdonsbac | Internet: jdonsbac@cvbnet.prime.com
"10 bucks is 10 bucks" - Geddy Lee
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: jmm2948@zeus.tamu.edu (Jeffrey M. Mayzurk)
Subject: Re: 195-60 HR-14s on an '84 GTI???
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: Texas A&M University
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 22:52:00 GMT

In article <1992Sep14.162150.9291@ll.mit.edu>, hemenway@ll.mit.edu writes...
>I have an '84 GTI with tires on their way out.
>I have stock (14") rims and would like to bump
>the tires to 195-60s (from 185-60s).  
> 
>Have you seen it done? 
>How is the wheelwell clearance?  
>If OK, are snow cables a no-no?
>If not OK, how are 195-55s?

This has been discussed many times before, needs to be in a FAQ file...

Anyways... 195/60-14 will fit fine, no clearance problems whatsoever.  Your
aspect ratio will be slightly altered, but not enough to worry about.
195/55-14 will fit, but it's the wrong size.  205/55-14 is ideal, and in 
fact it came on the early GTi 16Vs, but this size is very difficult to find.

I don't have any idea whether or not chains will fit, I live in Texas...

Here are the most common VW tire sizes:

175/70-13, 185/60-14, 205/55-14, 195/50-15, 205/50-15 (late model Corrado)

Chances are that if you have stock wheels, your tires are one of these
sizes.  

--
Jeffrey M. Mayzurk

jmm2948@zeus.tamu.edu

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: dilmore@cray.com (Robert J. Dilmore)
Subject: Passat bulletins
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Distribution: na
Date: 10 Sep 92 09:53:00 CDT

   Yesterday while I was picking up my Jetta from a water pump repair
a Passat came in. Although the owner was just coming in for a tunup.
After talking to him for awile I was told that he had gone through
three sets of tires in 30k. After looking over his car I noticed he had
not had any of the service bulletins addressed. I thought the following
may be of interest to other Passat owners. This is not a complete list.

  1. Diagonal tire wear is caused by too much negative camber. There is
a service bulletin to replace the stub axles that will take care of this.
In addition there is a "campaign" to reimburse the owner for tire costs.

  2. Lagging transmision upshifts are sometimes caused by low ATF pressure.
If you have an early model have them remove the filter and replace the 
mounting stub with a banjo fitting. Also there have been SEVERAL revisions
of the Trans and engine ECU.

  3. If your shifter is loose there is a campaign to replace that.

  4. Make sure the "mini-filter" has been removed from the fuel distributor.
This can be identified by an oval head on the top of it.

  5. There is a updated coolant inlet flange which is made out of Al instead
of plastic. The plastic ones are prone to warping and cracking. 

  6. If the car is hard to start during cold weather have the ECU replaced.


   In the next six months or more there will be a notification campaign
for some of these. Now that I have taken care of these things my car feels
better than new. Did I thank VW for my Yoko U+4s? Thank you!
   Also make sure to have your timing belt tightened at 15k and 30k and 
REPLACED at 60k(or sooner in my opinion) since this is an interference engine.

  While troubleshooting a net.problem I found that several diagrams relating
to the seatbelt section are wrong for some models. The senior editor called
me personally to apologize, thats service!
 
Robert

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: jmm2948@zeus.tamu.edu (Jeffrey M. Mayzurk)
Subject: Re: Seeking Neuspeed chip
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: Texas A&M University
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 22:29:00 GMT

In article <1992Sep10.053745.5254@microplex.com>, fff@microplex.com (Fred Fierling) writes...
>>In article <1992Sep3.020005.1517@rdr.com> randy@rdr.com (Randy Tidd) writes:
>>>
>>>I'm looking for an upgrade chip for my 1992 VW GTI 16v.  I called about a  
>>>bazillion places and finally got the local number for Autotech, who sells  
>>>upgrade chips for $275.00.  I heard from a multitude of sources that  
> 
>What's the appeal of these chips?  If they provide higher horsepower, is it
>at the expense of low end torque?  I mean there's no free lunch, right?


Well, I can't speak from personal experience, but from people that I have
talked to, the chips supposedly do a good job of boosting low-end torque
without sacrificing the top end.  Conventional tuning of the 16V motors
has been along the lines of improving the breathing (50mm intake runners,
exhaust, euro intake cam), which sacrifices about 5hp on the bottom while
realizing large gains at the top end.  The euro-spec 1.8 16V with the 
aforementioned equipment makes approx. 140 hp @7000 rpm, which is a bit
high for daily driving.  The US-spec 1.8 makes 124hp @5800, but still is
soft on the bottom end.  That's why VW went to the 2.0 16V, which produces
much better torque.  Displacement is the BEST way to increase performance
in these motors, assuming it already breathes well.

The Neuspeed PROMs for the G60 Corrado are supposed to make a big 
difference, especially on the bottom end.  The Neuspeed stage II conversion
with the supercharer pulley and exhaust is even better, giving the G60
motor some respectable performance (finally!)  I don't know how supercharger
life is affected, but it unless you spend a lot of time at redline in 5th
gear, you probably won't have a problem.  Can we hear from some people that
have actually installed these chips for first-hand accounts of the 
improvements?  I'm not fortunate enough to have motronic in my car, although
I have to admit that I get along fine without it, he he...

--
Jeffrey M. Mayzurk

jmm2948@zeus.tamu.edu
From: tgpt_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Tom Guptill)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: 195-60 HR-14s on an '84 GTI???
Date: 14 Sep 92 23:56:12 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Rochester - Rochester, New York

In <14SEP199217525499@zeus.tamu.edu> jmm2948@zeus.tamu.edu (Jeffrey M. Mayzurk) writes:

>Here are the most common VW tire sizes:

>175/70-13, 185/60-14, 205/55-14, 195/50-15, 205/50-15 (late model Corrado)

Shouldn't that be "newer & high-performance tire sizes"?  I think most
pre-85 non-performace models have 155/80-13's or 165/80-13's.

Tom.  (Who is envisioning his Rabbit Diesel GTI as we speak. :-) )
-- 
|Tom Guptill           | tgpt_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu  (internet)  |
|CPU Box 277445 U of R |  "    " @db1.cc.rochester.edu (alt internet) |
|Rochester, NY 14627   |  "    " @uordbv (bitnet)                     |
|(716) 274-0156        |                                              |
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Re: Broken 86 GTi Tach.
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 01:00:30 GMT

 
|> I am considering the purchase of a used instrument cluster due to the fact
|> that my original tach does not work.  Providing I get a cluster within
|> a decent price range, how can I get the milage changed to that of my current
|> odometer. 

Maybe I'm missing something here, but the last few Rabbit/Scirocco clusters that I have taken
apart have separate speedo and tach in the cluster.  Simply disassembly the cluster and stick
your old speedo in with the new cluster and tach (or visa-versa - put the new tach in your
old cluster).  These things come apart fairly easily.  Watch that you don't bend the small
3-terminal voltage regulator.  It is also a good idea to clean the wiring foil circuit 
contact areas with an eraser before re-assembly. 

You would have to disassemble the cluster to change the odomter anyway.  I have tried
repairing the odometer (the older versions have a small plastic pinion on the end of the
odometer shaft which loves to split and render the odo useless.  Putting the odo wheels
and their little drive pinions is sort of like Rubic's Cube -- it can be done, but it can
also be frustrating.  I'd swap the tach into your old cluster and keep the rest for other
spare parts.

regards, Mark
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: europe@europe.corp.sgi.com (Patrick Renvoise)
Subject: 1982 VW Conv. Rabbit FOR SALE
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc.
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1992 00:09:46 GMT

1982 VW Conv. Rabbit-$3500 Must see to appreciate!!!
Red/black top
5 speed
Air conditioning/heat
AM/FM cassette
143K miles (highway only)
Runs GREAT
Interior and exterior are flawless
Perfect dash, top, and body

Don't reply to this mail (posted for a friend)
Call 408-252-6573 home (San Jose, California)
From: hersh@expo.lcs.mit.edu (Jay Hersh)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Broken Reverse Light Switch
Date: 8 Sep 92 15:24:53 GMT
Article-I.D.: xenon.hersh.715965893
Organization: X Consortium, MIT Laboratory for Computer Science

A while back folks helped me locate my reverse light switch, which
did not seem to be working properly. I removed it, operated it
manually to determine if the switch was functioning, cleaned it and
re-installed it, at which point it worked fine.

It now is again no longer working. Removing it and operating it manually
shows that from an electromechanical stand point the switch is functional.
However now it does not work at all when installed. The switch seems
to work by being depressed by some portion of the transmission when
the reverse gear engages (the gears still work!!) and I am wondering if
perhaps the switch itself may have worn down to the point where even though
it is not defective as a switch, there may not be enough material on it
any more so that the reverse gear linkage is not able to depress it
sufficiently to activate the switch.

Does anyone know enough about this part to confirm this?? I don't want
to go off and buy and install a part Iwon't be able to return only to
find Iwas barking up a wrong tree...


	Thanks,
		JaH

--
Hopfen und Malz, Gott erhalts
From: hewett@head-cfa.harvard.edu (Rob Hewett)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Spotted: Unusual Quantum
Date: 9 Sep 92 13:34:27 GMT
Organization: Smithsonian Astrophysical Observatory, Cambridge, MA,  USA

Hi - 

On my commute this morning I saw a 2 door Quantum
hatchback.  I didn't know such a thing existed.
Looked a bit 411-ish.  Color was a sort of tan-copper.

I realize this is not earth-shaking:-)

Rob
hewett@cfa.harvard.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: larson@minerva.sws.uiuc.edu (Bob Larson)
Subject: Re: The best water-cooled VW?
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 06:46:10 GMT

In <1992Sep4.201751.29636@newsgate.sps.mot.com> mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw) writes:
>Which brings me to an question for anyone. 
>Has anyone ever had to replace any of the K-Jetronic components - fuel metering assembly,
>injectors, warmup control, electric fuel pump, etc?

I've racked up about 250K miles on 2 rabbits.  On the '84, I had fried a
fuel pump relay and fuel pump.  I also replaced a wampup controller that was
causing excess fuel pressure during starting.   On my '80 rabbit, I only
had one fuel injection related problem.  I was driving through a snowstorm
that had dumped about a foot of snow, and all of the sudden the engine died.
When I got out of the car I could see gas leaking from the 
engine compartment.  I popped open the hood and couldn't believe
what I found.  A fuel pressure guage!  Earlier in the week, I had
a dealer perform a major tune up, and they forgot to remove the
gage.  The fuel leak was caused by the one of the hoses of the gage
breaking.  

I figured keeping the guage was fair compensation for what I went
through being stranded in that storm.  Still use it today.

--------------------------
Bob Larson
blarson@uiuc.edu
Illinois State Water Survey
From: 01ksdavis@bsu-ucs.uucp
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: VW convertible freaks?
Date: 10 Sep 92 04:50:42 GMT


	It's taken for granted pretty much everywhere that VW convertibles are
collector's items.  Therefore, I have a few questions.

	Are VW convertible bugs still being made in Puebla (when they aren't on
strike or locked out?)

	Was there ever a kit that was a hard top convertible to replace the soft
one?

	I have heard that this is the last year of the VW convertible in its
current form.  Anybody have any ideas on what the new one will look like?  Has
anybodyseen spy photos of this car?  Also have I heard that this was supposed to
be competing with the Mazda Miata (to regain VW's supposed market.)

	So, this being taken for a fact, anybody care to speculate on how much
the Rabbit convertibles will be worth ten or twenty years down the road?  I
imagine special cases will have to be made for the triple whites, and the so-
called Wolfsburg Limited Edition.

	Anybody care to comment?


		Kyle
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: jswthomp@milton.u.washington.edu (James Thompson)
Subject: Re: Buying an old VW Rabbit
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 00:33:46 GMT

>A couple of days after buying the car, I noticed a small sticker inside the
>driver's side door frame which said something to the effect that the odometer
>had been turned to 0 on the car. The mileage from which it had been turned to 0
>and the date had been washed out. There was also a warning on the sticker that
>federal law prohibited its removal from the car. This would explain the low
>miles (56K in 11 years) on the car.
>
>I got a mechanic's opinion on the engine condition and according to him the engine
>does not appear to have much more than 50K on it.
>
>I would like to know how I could find out the actual miles on the car. 

You can't.  That information is lost for good.

>(I don't know if the title deed would have this info since I got it from a dealer
>and the dealer sent the deed to the credit union financing the car).I could, of
>course, go to the credit union and take a look at the deed.
>
>I would also like to know under what circumstances turning the odometer back is legal.

Certainly, if the speedo is replaced.  Can't think of any other good reason
off hand.

>The car works just fine, but I bought it under the impression that it had 56K on it
>and not 56K+some unknown quantity. Is the dealer responsible for letting the buyer 
>know the actual miles on the car, or at least the fact that the odometer had been turned
>back? In particular, can he be sued for fraud?
>

ABSOLUTELY the person who sold this car knowing that the odometer had been
reset is responsible.  The federally required odometer disclosure form
has boxes to check for whether the mileage is unknown.  Of course, the dealer
may honestly not have seen this door sticker and may not have known any better
than you did.

>Thanks for any comments.
>
>Amber
>
>-- 
>	Amber Roy Chowdhury           	|  	"I believe that a college should
>	5-114 CSL, Univ. of Illinois    |	 be concerned with ideas ... not
>	Urbana IL 61801			|	 just your ideas, or my ideas... 
>	(217)-244-7168			|        but all ideas" - James Thurber













Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: paul@gergo.tamu.edu (From under the rock of Paul Stine)
Subject: Help removing tough Rabbit injectors
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Keywords:  Fuel injectors removing
Organization: Geochemical and Environmental Research Group - TAMU
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 19:12:00 GMT

	  I'm helping a friend, or he is helping me, work on his
	'79 Rabbit (fuel injected). We have gotten to the point
	where we want to test the injectors, but have run into a
	problem in getting them out of the manifold. This bunny 
	has 92K miles on it and I kind of doubt the injectors have
	*ever* been removed. I've tried just 'popping' the injector
	out of it's seat, but no go. I thought I would consult with
	the net before getting too physical. I was also wondering 
	if there was anything I might use to soften the O-rings to
	make the injectors easier to remove. I noticed that the RB
	manual says to soak the new O-rings in gasoline before 
	installing them. One idea I've had is to make some sort of 
	puller out of a weeding fork or maybe a large meat fork.

	  All input is appreciated, E-mail or post.

	'67 Type I Convertible   (Look ma, no fuellies.)  '69 Type II 
	-------------------------------------------------------------
	Paul E. Stine '83		Geochemical and Environmental
	aka "barkeeper"			       Research Group
	PAUL@GERGO.TAMU.EDU	  College of Geosciences and Marine Studies
					    Texas A&M University
					
	  The opinions expressed here are not necessarily those of 
	 the Texas A&M University System. I'm not even sure they are 
	 mine, as I think I had my opinion removed as a small child.
	-------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: kokerj@jec303.its.rpi.edu (James Matthew Kokernak)
Subject: Re: Battery/Charging System Problems?
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 15:55:58 GMT

In article <1992Sep15.132353.15697@cs.tulane.edu> finnegan@navo.navy.mil writes:

>more than a couple of days to figure it out.  Oh, and when you jump
>in the trunk and have your friend close it on you, make sure that the
>keys aren't in your pocket.  But that's another story....... ;-)
>
>Kenneth
>finnegan@navo.navy.mil
>

Why? You need the keys to lock the trunk, unless of course...but nobody would 
do that. :)

--Jim
From: ac579@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (G.C.J. Timm)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: 1989 GTI or Here he goes again!
Date: 8 Sep 92 13:51:17 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc10.ins.cwru.edu


My local VW dealer (Lossman Lakewood Ohio, USA)
has a 1989 GTI on the lot, Red, w/sunroof,
PIIN  NWDC0171KV010172

Should be 7200 - 8200 depending on mileage.

What should I look for besides:
1.  Heater core
2.  Body integrity
3.  Fuel system

(According to Consumer Reports these are the weak points of
the 1989 Golf/GTI)

Any other things I should know before I buy?

Jeff
Who loves VW's but has to pay bills as well as insurance and
upkeep
"Yacht:  Hole in the water into which money is thrown"
"Porsche:  Lump in the driveway into which money is thrown."
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: doug@jhawk.b30.ingr.com (Doug Bradley)
Subject: Re: Broken Reverse Light Switch
Reply-To: doug@jhawk.b30.ingr.com.
Organization: Intergraph Corp. Huntsville, AL
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 13:03:59 GMT

[ woe about backup light switch deleted ]

  You don't say what year/model car this is, but I'm assuming it's not a bug
(the light switch on the front of the trans in pretty indestructible -- and 
only $4!).

  I had problems with the backup switch on my '84 Jetta going out.  This is the
one mounted on the transmission held on by two 9mm bolts.  After going through
two switches I found at the junkyard, I broke down and bought one at an
independent shop for $27 (dealer wanted $55 for the *same* part).

  I'd tried cleaning, soaking, blowing out, etc. the old switches to no avail. 
I'd bite the bullet and buy a new one and be done with it. 

[ comments about crappy service life, high price of part stifled ]

Good luck!

Doug
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: daniel@nstn.ns.ca (Daniel MacKay)
Subject: Re: CV joints
Organization: NSTN Network Operations Centre, Nova Scotia, Canada
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 09:39:45 GMT

In <1992Sep10.234606.23867@csi.jpl.nasa.gov> eldred@rrunner.jpl.nasa.gov 
 (Dan Eldred) writes:

good stuff.  agree 100%.

-dan
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: RXJF20@waccvm.corp.mot.com (Douglas Shade)
Subject: chop top baja
Organization: Motorola
Date: 11 Sep 1992 14:13:50 MST

I want to cut the top off my baja, but am concerned with the
pan flexing...

Anyone out there with some experience in this major mod?  Any
proven ideas for making the pan more rigid? Cheaply?
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: ari@leland.Stanford.EDU (Ari Ollikainen)
Subject: Re: Good Home needs Cat
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 22:36:38 GMT

Gayla Ann writes:

> IMHO
>>CCs only really are effective for about 1.5 years of normal wear and tear.
>>They're legal beyond that, but don't really perform the intended function.

How about some substantiation, Gayla Ann? I'm sure the CARB and EPA would
be interested to know that VW is equipping its vehicles with substandard
anti-emission components! 

--Ari
From: wtjones@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Bill Jones)
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 23:34:49 GMT
Subject: Re: Hard to open door.
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Rosa, CA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw

I have an '85 Jetta with the same problem on the drivers door. Big PAIN...
The replacement part (the jamb piece) is about $54.00 at the dealer.
I am looking for a wrecking yard with the driver door smashed with a usable
assembly.
The piece you bent up stressed out on mine and will not hold the form anymore.
I have had to bend it up three times already.
 _____________________________________________________________________________ 
|                     .             | William (Bill) T. Jones                |
|   /  / M.W.T.D    .   .           | 1412 Fountain Grove Parkway 3LSE       |
|  /__/____________._____._____._   | Santa Rosa, CA 95403-1788              |
| /                       .   .     | MicroWave Technology Division          |
|                           .       | Manufacturing Engineering              |
| HEWLETT-PACKARD COMPANY           | wtjones@sr.hp.com                      |
|___________________________________|________________________________________|
 Standard Disclaimer goes here: ------------> ...............................
From: eldred@rrunner.jpl.nasa.gov (Dan Eldred)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: The best water-cooled VW?
Date: 4 Sep 92 23:19:47 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory

In article <1992Sep4.201751.29636@newsgate.sps.mot.com> mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw) writes:
>
>Has anyone ever had to replace any of the K-Jetronic components - fuel metering assembly,
>injectors, warmup control, electric fuel pump, etc?
>
>With (4) vehicles I have experience with (which covers a cumulative history of about
>400K miles) such failures have not been seen.  Fuel and air filters appear to be the
>only items that need to be changed.
>

I replaced the injectors on my '84 Rabbit (170k miles now, bought new) at
around 100k miles in an attempt to determine the cause of a gradual decrease
in mileage.  The spray pattern wasn't perfect which made me suspicious.  
The new injectors didn't make any difference in mileage but did make starting
a tad smoother.  Probably they didn't need replacing.  It seems to be a pretty
robust system.  I do replace the fuel filter at 60k miles (as recommended).
Everything else seemsto be working well.

I still haven't solved the mileage problem.  Mileage has dropped from an
average of 38 new to about 31 now, but the car has excellent compression,
doesn't burn oil, is timed correctly, etc.  I suspect the catalytic converter
is being plugged up.  I've given up worrying about it, since the mileage
is still ok and the car still runs virtually perfect (passes smog checks
with flying colors).  If anyone has any suggestions, email me.

	- Dan 		eldred@rrunner.jpl.nasa.gov