HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: nicolas@stam.nl (Nico Veenkamp)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: Bavaria
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 93 11:57:23 +0100
Organization: Stam Tijdschriften bv, Rijswijk, The Netherlands

In <1ihnglINNlo5@shelley.u.washington.edu> mustang@hardy.u.washington.edu (Brian Watson) writes:
>   I am moving back to Germany in a few days and I was wondering if
>anybody could tell me of any good climbing/backpacking areas in Bavaria,
>Austria, Switzerland.

Brian,

I have done a fair bit of climbing in Austria and I can recommend backpacking
in the Dachstein. Excellent walking area and very quiet. Apparantly not
many people go there. The climbing in the Dachstein range itself can be done
after may/june. But expect loose rock everywhere. I was this summer in a ridge west
of the Dachstein and I was not amused. Everything that I took hold of came loose. Also
a lot of 'latschen' also known as shrubbery. There are a few good routes but you really
have to know them.

This summer I will go to the Lienzer Dolomites. It is supposed to have good solid rock and 
a number of routes in any scale imaginable. Don't know about backpacking.

I also spend two years walking and climbing in the Silvretta mountain area. Enjoyed that very
much. Beautifull gletschers and nice mountains. But very busy. For instance climbing Piz Buin
is like walking in a traffic-jam.



-- 
      *================================================================*
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      |  Stam Tijdschriften bv  | -------------------------------------|
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      |  2280 AE  Rijswijk      | FidoNet  : 2:281/1.7                 |
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      *================================================================*
From: lkampf@desire.wright.edu
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: RE: T-Wall
Date: 8 Jan 93 15:08:29 EST
Organization:  Wright State University 

All routes at the T-wall have to be lead. At least all I have seen. However,
some routes can be t.r.'d with two ropes after haveing led it or a nearby
route. The rock is hard, somewhat blocky sandstone and you decide if the 
t.r. is worth the effort. Guides/ advice can be obtained at the climbing
shop in Chattanoogie for merely a blood donation and your firstborn. Nice
people though.
From: bozek@ecs.umass.edu
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: re: new topic
Date: 8 Jan 93 13:03:08 GMT

If the world can be thought as a mossaic; town, cities, cars, bills
work,...

.. then the rock is a bare spot where none of this exist. crawling out

from the world to a place where just the "primordal instincts exist (
hot cold rock fear :) "

My hands are sweating just typing this.
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: konnbt@eua.ericsson.se (Niklas Bjornerstedt)
Subject: Cirque of the unclimbables
Reply-To: konnbt@eua.ericsson.se
Organization: Enator Functional Systems, Stockholm, Sweden
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 11:08:47 GMT

I am planning a trip to the Cirque of the unclimbables this summer. For 
those who do not know, it's a group of granite peaks in the Logan Mountans in 
the Northwest of Canada. 

Does anyone have any info on the area that they can share with me? I have so
far found the following things:
Climbing April/May 1992
50 Classic climbs in North America

I am seeking articles in the following magazines:
Mountain #50
Climbing #65
Iwa To Yuki #113
Iwa To Yuki #143
_____________________________

Niklas Bjornerstedt
Enator Functional Systems
Email: konnbt@eua.ericsson.se
From: brendan@buck.ac.uk (Brendan Murphy)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: Info of Joe Simpson
Date: 6 Jan 93 16:34:22 GMT
Organization: University of Buckingham

In article <BzGIHz.3vr@rivm.nl>, mtvahb@rivm.nl (Aldrik Bakema) writes:

>Raymond Goure (rayman@lookout.it.uswc.uswest.com) wrote:
>
>: I just finished the "Touching the Void" by Joe Simpson detailing his
>: and Simon Yates climb of Siula Grande. I was wondering if anyone
>: has information as to the injuries (specific) suffered by
>: simpson. the book leaves it as a broken leg that needed 10
>: operations. Any info regarding this climber would be greatly
>: appriciated.

I climbed the SW ridge of Ama Dablam with Joe in 1990.  His knee gives him
grief, but doesn't stop him mountaineering or rock climbing.  He's very 
determined :-)  He is trying to cram in as much climbing as he can before his
knee seizes up completely.  He's in to full scale body abuse.

Unfortunately, he suffered another accident about 2 years ago I think while 
climbing with Mal Duff in Nepal; Mal slipped and Joe came off worse.  This has
damaged his other ankle :-(  I haven't climbed with him for some time, but I 
know he was rock climbing at E2/3 (5.11 I think) last summer.  I'm going 
back to Nepal with him in March to try Gangchempo in the Langtang Valley.

[stuff deleted]

>Well, I just read yesterday in a magazine that he published another book.
>Not so dramatic, but since you ask for any information ...
>I regret I forgot the title, but it's about two guys doing a trek somewhere
>as I gathered from the magazine. It ' s fiction, by the way, no autobiography.

It's called "The Water People".  It was shortlisted for the Boardman-Tasker
Award.  I've not read it, but I've heard it's good.  You're right, it's fiction
(hard-back only at the momemt).

>Last thing I remember is that he is now preparing his third book.

I think that he has actually finished it, but I don't think that it has yet
been published.  I believe that it is a more philosophical book on 
mountaineering (he was in a philosophical mood when I last met him after
returning from a trip to the S face of Annapurna on which a friend was killed).
He has an MA in Philosophy and a BA in English, plus an outrageous appetite
for life!

Brendan

-- 
********************************************************************************
Brendan Murphy						brendan@buck.ac.uk
Department of Computer Science				Tel: 44 (0)280 814080
University of Buckingham, Buckingham, MK18 1EG, UK	Fax: 44 (0)280 822245
********************************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: konnbt@eua.ericsson.se (Niklas Bjornerstedt)
Subject: Re: CORRECT way to clip an extender
Reply-To: konnbt@eua.ericsson.se
Organization: Enator Functional Systems, Stockholm, Sweden
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 07:36:05 GMT

In article 50089@ccvax.ucd.ie, clissman@ccvax.ucd.ie () writes:
 > 
> Now it seems to me that the obvious way to clip a piece of gear is with both
> carabiners ultimately facing with the gate away from the rock, so that there is
> no chance of an edge opening the crab, and also it's possible to clip the rope
> easily when the crab's back is against the rock. 

The problem is that the carabiners most often will tend to lay themselves flat
against the rock. The important thing (especially with bent gates) is that the
carabiner which the rope runs through should face away from you. If you are
climbing a line that slants to the right the gates should face left. This 
minimises the risk that the rope will unclip itself if you fall.

_____________________________

Niklas Bjornerstedt
Enator Functional Systems
Email: konnbt@eua.ericsson.se 
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: czichon@psyche.csc.ti.com (Cary Czichon)
Subject: Re: Info. requested on climbing in Peru
Organization: Texas Instruments
Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1993 23:22:43 GMT

In article <86341@ut-emx.uucp> runnels@ut-emx.uucp (Scott Runnels) writes:

>     I am planning on going to Peru to climb Huascaren,
>Alpamayo, and Huandoy in June/July of this year and am looking
>for information on routes, who the best porters (or companies
>for hiring porters) are, and whether the political situation
>in the Cordillera Blanca is stable.  I'd also welcome
>information on food for expeditions (whether to take it from
>the states or buy it in Peru) and what are good climbing
>guidebooks for the area.  If you have any info on
>climbing/trekking in the Cordillera Blanca region of Peru,
>please respond.  Thanks

When I was up at Chimborazo's hut a few days ago, I spent several hours
discussing Andean climbing possibilities with a number of Australians.
There was a definite concensus concerning the Parque National Huascaran and
the Senderista Luminoso living in the area.  The Aussies had been there
recently and were advising others to stay away.  Apparently, some climbers
had brought along a policeman to protect them while they were in the park.
The policeman was promptly killed.  The climbers were told to leave immediately
and never bring another government person with them again.

I'd consider climbing in Cordillera Real outside La Paz instead.

Cary Czichon
czichon@csc.ti.com
From: tpm@ecs (TP Monks)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: Climbing trip to somewhere warm?
Date: 12 Jan 93 09:10:44 GMT
Distribution: world

This probably isn't relevant since I'm quite far North and a lot further
East than you meant, and I've just got *back* from hols!  
Just got back from my weeks hols in Spain - best  Christmas I've ever had.  
I stayed in The Black Hole of Benidorm which was grotty but cheap 
(#155 for the flight, accomodation, food - they even give you
a picnic to take to the crag!)   The crags really are superb, and the
weather was hot.

You wouldn't believe the amount of undeveloped limestone out there.
For every m2 of crag that is developed there must be another 50 that
isn't - anything that is more than 100m from a road or track tends not
to be touched!

The grading is definitely weird - you need to look at a variety of topos
and take the mean.  One route I did was given E5 6a in one topo and French
6b in another...  Careful though - the names will probably differ according
to which topo you look at!  This is no great loss since the routes all 
tend to have names like 'right hand red route', 'silver route', 'uno',
'dos', 'tres', etc...  I guess that this must be unique in its boringness.

Tim


--
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tim Monks                                Vision, Speech and Signal Processing
tpm@ecs.soton.ac.uk                                    Southampton University
Tel: +44 (703) 592774                                   Fax: +44 (703) 592895
From: nicolas@stam.nl (Nico Veenkamp)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: what mits are good?
Date: 5 Jan 93 09:17:39 GMT
Organization: Stam Tijdschriften bv, Rijswijk, The Netherlands

In <1iavltINNldn@shelley.u.washington.edu> davin@hardy.u.washington.edu (David Veale) writes:
>I'm in the market for a good pair of mits for skiing and winter
>mountaineering.  Does anyoe out there have any
>reccomendations or experiences for any of the above mits or something similar?

I use some Helly Hansen mits that have holes for my fingers and thumb
that way my hands are kept warm but when I need to handle rope I
just slip my fingers and thumb through the hole without removing
my mits. I've also used these for climbing but only on relative
easy routes.


-- 
      *================================================================*
      |  Nico Veenkamp	        | You write, we publish                |
      |  Stam Tijdschriften bv  | -------------------------------------|
      |  P.O. Box 235           | Internet : nicolas@stam.nl           |
      |  2280 AE  Rijswijk      | FidoNet  : 2:281/1.7                 |
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      *================================================================*
Xref: sparky rec.climbing:5154 rec.backcountry:10048
From: tucker@shiva.edsg.hac.com (George Tucker)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing,rec.backcountry
Subject: Re: Big new landfill next to J-Tree?
Date: 8 Jan 93 22:03:48 GMT
Reply-To: tucker@shiva.UUCP (George Tucker)
Organization: Hughes Aircraft Co., El Segundo, CA

In article <C0JMn2.DsK@optimla.aimla.com> jc@optimla.aimla.com (John VanHoozer) writes:
>In article <24651@hacgate.SCG.HAC.COM>, tucker@shiva.edsg.hac.com (George Tucker) writes:
>
>Your argument is irrelavent.  Yes there are old roads, mines, and domiciles
>with in the park perimeter.  Does that mean that we should trash it more?
No, it just means J-Tree is not more "pristine" than a lot of alternative
neighborhoods for landfill sites.
 
>As an example,  look at the Channel Islands National Park.  The closest of 
>these is the island of Anacapa, 20 miles west of Ventura, Ca.  There is 
>an old Light house there (operational,too) which pre-dates the park, much
>as the mines, roads, and residents of J-Tree do.  Sea birds fly something
>like 35 miles (each way) to get to the landfill in Ventura and return to the
>islands.  The island is covered with plastic, paper, chicken bones, and other
>crap.

The bird problem seems more significant than the other problems mentioned
in the original posting.  If you are going to write letters to
politicians concerning the landfill, that is probably a good point to
emphasize.  Where would you place the landfill to avoid problems with
birds, given that it is not going to be placed in a city?  It is hard 
to find a suitable and politically acceptable site more than 25 miles 
from anything as "pristine" as J-Tree.

	 George Tucker        tucker@shiva.hac.com
	Signature line awaiting FDA approval.
From: scott.powell@amail.amdahl.com
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Harness: a summary
Date: 9 Jan 93 22:43:41 GMT
Return-Path: <amail.amdahl.com!scott.powell@juts.ccc.amdahl.com>

Edward at pierce@asc.slb.com is also looking for a harness.  He writes:
> I'm also considering a purchase soon, and would appreciate your summary
> of responses.  Perhaps you should even consider summary back to the
newsgroup?
> Please let me know what you learned?  Thanks,

Well here's the replies I've gotten so far.

>From davin@u.washington.edu

> There are many good harnesses on the market, but most of them have silly
> leg loops that either aren't adjustable or are difficult to adjust.  The
> Black Diamond Bod harness has a very nice design and is very adjustable.
> It's also reasonably priced.  Of course there are always the nice padded
> harnesses that are now available.  Arcteryx (sp?) makes a harness that was
> rated very well, called the Skaha I think.  It's also under $70.

>From Martin, sex@brahms.udel.edu

> About a year ago I bought a misty mountain threadworks harness because
> of the comfort and the price...
> (omitted)
> ...I took my girlfriend out harness shopping
> ...She liked the misty
> mountain threadworks cragmaster.  I have the Extreme model.  The only
> difference is adjustable leg loops on the Extreme...
> (6 lines omitted)
> so in conclusion...
> I would HIGHLY suggest checking out the Misty Mountain Threadworks line.
> (omitted)

and still another recommendation for Misty Mountain Threadworks from
Chris, cptully@med.unc.edu,

> I bought a harness by Misty Mountain about two years ago, and have been
> quite happy with it...
> (rest of letter omitted)

Glen, kalina@hpcup1.cup.hp.com,  added some good advice to his recommendation.

> I went with a Metolius Big Rig and I love it.  I did two things before I
> bought;
> 1) Checked out a back issue of Climbing magazine out of the library which ha
> an extensive product evaluation of harnesses
> 2) Tried on all the harnesses I was interested in and hung off the
> climbing walls at the shops so I could get the feel of them.

finally Chan Lee, chanl@cayman.amd.com

> I recently switched my harness to Black Diamond's Alphine Bod Harness,
> Which is super light(less than 10 oz) and yet comfortable even for a long
> hours of hangling belay.(it has a wide waist band and leg loop).

My present harness was made by Chouniard.  I think it's a Bod Harness.

> The leg loop can be easily detached in case of changing pants or toileting.
> Finally it is relatively cheap - only $36.

This is what I've gotten so far.  I probably won't be buying till the end of
the month so if you have any other opinions, please email me direct.  Thanks
again

Scott

| Scott B. Powell,  sbp00@amail.amdahl.com     -- I drive the Scoboni --     |
From: sinclair@cc.usu.edu (Bob Sinclair)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Conservation fees at Hueco Tanks, TX
Date: 4 Jan 93 14:30:43 MDT
Organization: Utah State University

This was possibly (probably??) covered in the recent Hueco Tanks stuff, most
of which I missed. I was informed on the 'phone by a Hueco Ranger that there
is now a $25 'conservation fee' levied on a per person basis. The pass then
lasts a year. Having had other plans fall through, SO and I considered a couple
of days at Hueco over new year, but $25 for a couple of days seemed a bit much.
No info was available regarding reductions in this for out-of-staters who might
just be passing through. If the S. Utah weather is any indication, we didn't
miss too much!
Bob.
From: cbrown@islesboro.East.Sun.COM (Chris Brown - SunSelect Operations)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: new topic
Date: 6 Jan 1993 22:05:00 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems Inc. - BDC
Distribution: world
Reply-To: cbrown@islesboro.East.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: islesboro.east.sun.com

I think people are attracted to climbing for a variety of reasons:

1. In a world that is often vague and ambiguous, it provides an easy means of measuring personal achievement: 5.4, 5.8, 5.11b for god sake! Sort of like BS, MS, Phd.

2. It provides a direct connection with the primitive/natural world (fear, stone, heat, cold).

3. For many men, it mitigates the wimpy nature of most modern work in the office, lab and classroom.

4. It provides a socially acceptable way to rebel (compared to bank robbery, etc.)

5. Despite what it appears at the Gunks, etc., not many people in the general population do it. So, it's a way to feel/be unique in an otherwise look-alike society.

Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: colby@oahu.cs.ucla.edu (Kenneth Colby)
Subject: Best Eats in Joshua Tree
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
Date: Wed, 13 Jan 93 01:50:00 GMT

Where am I?

Start hiking at 0700, climb 350 meters in 1 hour, spend 6 hrs in the slings
doing A1-A2 climbing, come down in the dark?

Yosemite?

No, Joshua Tree.

Just outside the park (East entrance) there is a 3 pitch aid climb, 
Indian Head formation, called Goof Proof Roof.

Lots of fun.  Good practice for the Spring big wall season in Yosemite.

(It really didn't take us that long!)

Went into 29 palms for something to wet the whistle and fill the
belly and found -----

Manny's

On the south side of the road, BIG SIGN, and a mesquite BBQ outside
the entrance.

Went in smelling like climbers (4 days in J-Tree just off a climb) and
was treated like royalty by the OWNER (I think?).  Personal service,
non-stop, best steak I ever had, great conversation with the owner
his family and all the colorful area residents (read Marines).

Truly an experience!!! Much better than Arturo's in J-Tree and
without belittling at all THE BULL and SPEAR.


Tell em' Pete and Marty sent ya.  You will NOT regret it!  For
one who knows food (adn not sp!) it now the place to go, for the 
best eats on a J-Tree trip.

Tell em' PETE and MARTY SENT YA?

You wont be dissapointed (disappointed?)

Peter (you want me to lead that?) Colby



Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: jstone@world.std.com (Jeff Stone)
Subject: Climbing trip to somewhere warm?
Organization: The World @ Software Tool & Die
Distribution: ne
Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1993 16:06:41 GMT

Is anyone else in the frigid northeast needing an outdoor climbing
fix?  I've been thinking about making a trip with a climbing partner
(I need one) to somewhere warm to do some climbing without having
to wait for spring to finally get here.  Anyone have any ideas
about suitable places?  Interested in going?

-jeff-
From: brodesky@td2cad.intel.com (Michael Brodesky)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Insurance and Legal issues at University Climbing walls
Date: 11 Jan 93 17:48:49 GMT
Organization: intel corporation



	A local University is interested in building a climbing wall, and
  is interested in how other Universities handle legal issuses regarding
the climbing walls.














PS Greg Opland I can not get mail back to you. i will be going to he
Pheonix gym tonight.
--
Michael Brodesky Internet Mbrodesky@sc9.Intel.com
UUCP : {pur-ee,qanad,oliveb,decwrl,hplabs}!intelca!mipos3!td2cad!brodesky
During the week I climb left to right. On weekends I climb up and down.
Rootbeer^2 = Beer ?             Were all in it together. 
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: cpguenth@next15 (CHRIS P. GUENTHER)
Subject: Re: Gaithersburg, Maryland and the number 666
Keywords: The Gaithersburg Blues
Organization: Michigan Technological University
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 15:40:20 GMT



In article <1ihr91INN5sa@agate.berkeley.edu> stephen@physics1 (Stephen  
Ross ) writes:
> 
> Greetings!
> 
> I have recently received a job offer from NIST in Gaithersburg,  
Maryland,
> and am very tempted by the science. However, as this group will 
> understand, am a bit worried about climbing. Well, more than a bit 
> worried. 
> 
> Just how ugly is this? Am I going to be staring at my porta-ledge with 
> tears in my eyes every night, setting it up in the tree out in the back
> yard? How far is the New River Gorge? 
> 
> In addition, just how much of a suburban hell is Gaithersburg? Do I have  
to 
> go a the mall to buy everything?
> 
> Tell, tell!
> 
> Stephen
> New River Gorge is about 4.5 hours away unless the on the beltway is a  
mess which it usally is. Dont forget the other climbing areas die; Seneca  
Rocks about 3 hours away. The local climbing areas are Great Falls and  
Caderock just minutes away from Gaithersburg. There is even a indoor  
climbing area in Rockville where its safe and warm and a good hangout for  
sport climbers. Yes Gaithersburg and the whole metro area is suburbia
at its worst.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: Barry Norval Campbell <NorvalC@QUCDN.QueensU.CA>
Subject: Beginner's  rack
X-Xxmessage-Id: <A76DAED05B025ACE@earl-mac206.biol.queensu.ca>
X-Xxdate: Mon, 4 Jan 93 14:07:28 GMT
Organization: Molecular Ecology Laboratory, Queen's University
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d12
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 14:06:06 GMT

I am planning to buy equipment for my own rack and would like to know
what others recommend in the way of starting equipment.  ie.  What should
I get (ie. chocks, hexes, friends, etc.) and what sizes, if I am just
starting to build my rack and the limit of my climbing ability is about
5.9 - 5.10a.  Thanks again.

Barry Campbell
Queens University at Kingston
Email:   NorvalC@QUCDN.QueensU.CA
From: bhilden@bigriver.Eng.Sun.COM (Bruce Hildenbrand)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: California Mountaineering Club - how safe?
Date: 6 Jan 1993 18:14:45 GMT
Organization: Sun
NNTP-Posting-Host: bigriver-248

In article <23161@venera.isi.edu> jdeifik@isi.edu (Jeff Deifik) writes:
>Over new years weekend I went on a trip with the California Mountaineering
>Club. It was my first trip. The planned events were Signal Peak
>(aka Kofa Peak) AZ 4th class, Castle Dome AZ 3rd class, and Little Picacho
>Peak 6th class. It was organized by Randy Bernard, author of the first
>edition of the desert peaks section of the sierra club climbing guide.
>
>A woman had brought along her dog.....
later..
>The antics with the dog take around 1 hour.

Why do people do this?!?  There is a possibility that she had contacted
the trip leader and asked if it was all right, but, as you can read
later on in the posting, having this dog along caused the group to
descend in the dark the first day and left a number of the group members
too tired to attempt the second peak.

I have a hard time understanding this kind of mentality, why would
someone bring their animal on a group trip when it had the obvious
potential of being a burden for the rest of the participants.

Bruce

ps - of course, now I am going to have to suffer the testimonials
about how everybody else's animal climbs 5.10, is more trustworthy
than their best human partner and has saved their butts on numerous
occasions.