From: danjudd@cps.msu.edu.cps.msu.edu (Dan Judd)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Prince of Thieves Wrongos (shoes)
Keywords: shoes
Date: 15 Sep 92 22:05:57 GMT
Reply-To: danjudd@cps.msu.edu.cps.msu.edu (Dan Judd)
Organization: Dept. of Computer Science, Michigan State University
Originator: danjudd@pacific.cps.msu.edu

In article <1992Sep11.144141.18103@bmerh85.bnr.ca> cav@bnr.ca (Rick Cavasin) writes:
>In article <716037084.F00003@blkcat.UUCP>, Dave.Aronson@f120.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Dave Aronson) writes:
>|> Balderik (cav@bnr.ca (Rick Cavasin)) points out:
>|> 
>|>  B> When Robin is crossing a stream, there is a shot which
>|>  B> allows one to see that his boots have HEELS.
>|> 
>|> So when did boots start to have heels?
>|> 
>
>In the Museum of London publication _Shoes_and_Pattens_, which summarizes
>the analysis of some 1500 finds from between 1100 and 1450, I don't
>believe there is a single shoe with anything that could be called a 'heel'.

This is something that I have looked into over the past few years. And
while I can't claim to be an expert, I can say that I have looked at an
awful lot of feet in period illistrations, statues, paintings etc. When
I first started one of my goals was to find the earliest documentable 
heel on a shoe. The earliest I have found was 1580 in a spanish painting,
and there was some question as to the dating on the painting, it could have
been 5 to 10 years later accorrding to the reference. As far as I can
tell heels were not attached to the shoe itself as a common practice until
1600, the very end of Elizabeth's reign.  She owned at least one pair of 
heeled boots that can be dated in the 1590's, I saw them when I was in England
a couple of years ago, I believe that there is a picture of them in 
Queen Elizebeths Wardrobe Unlocked as well. 

It is interesting that at 1600 the shoe industry seemed to completely 
change. Paintings after 1600 show boots higher than the ankle and heels.
Previously low shoes seem to have been dominant, though some boot existed.
Chopins (a wooden, sometimes leather sandle worn with light shoes or
footed hose)  seem to disapper completely.  I assume someone got the
idea of combining the shoe with the chopin and people liked the idea.
I do not know why after 2000 years of apparent seperation the time
was suddenly right for the combination of the 2. I would speculate that
there was a significant change in horse gear or street construction 
that made the change worthwhile/needed, but have no proof.

Chopin's (at least the wooden varity) have had heels since the Roman
times. I saw some from a Roman dig in England near Hadrian's Wall and 
all had heels. They also had hob nails which looked nearly exactly like
the craft nails with the heads that are a hemisphere with several flat
sides. Similar to a metal version of standard running cleats. The shoes
in the exhibit, however did not have heels.

Reliable references about shoes are hard to come by at best. I have talked
to many people who seem to be otherwise knowledgeable about garb make pretty
wild claims about shoes. To the tunes of thigh high boots with inch and
half heels are appropriate for a norsman around 1200, plus the foot long
plus pointy toe debate. Generally asking how they know this I get 
answers ranging from "when you've doing this as long as I have you get
an eye for things", to "I've got a laurel", to a quiet pause and 
"You know, I have no idea, maybe I should check". 

The book I can't say enough good things about is the Museum of London
publication _Shoes_and_Pattens_ by Frances Greu and Margarethe
DeNeergaard. It contains everything you need to be able to make shoes
like those used in England from 12th through 15th century.
From the paintings I have looked at they appear to be similar to
what was being done in the rest of Europe. There are photos, detailed
scale drawings and various breakdowns by type. There also detailed
stitching diagrams of how the various parts were attatched to one
another.  My sewing experiance was nil, and I have still been able to
make several pairs of useful shoes for myself and my lady, based on the
book.  If you want your very own copy of this fine book it costs about
$25 American, and can be order directly from the Muesum of London by
Phone (what I did) Use your favorite credit card and they will mail it
to you. The address is:
	   Museum of London,
           London Wall.
	   London EC24SHN England
	   Telephone 071-600-3699 (you may need and extra country code)
The North American distributer for the Museum of London is called
Unipub, if you go to your friendly neighborhood bookseller, they should
be able to order it for you as well. They also distribute several other
titles from the Museum of London such as Knives and Scabbards, Dress
Accessories, and Cloth and Textiles.

Well that is more than enough for me.

Rye Skyter
(danjudd@cps.msu.edu)

  Swedish police say the class members pummeled their instructor
to death and then collapsed, too exhausted to try to escape.
  "We were so pooped we barely had enough strength to beat her to
death" said one revengeful fatty.
		-Weekly World News April 9 1991
Organization: Computer Operations, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA