HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: patti@hosehead.intel.com (Patti Beadles)
Subject: Re: Acrylic Tanks
Originator: patti@hosehead
Organization: Intel Corporation, Hillsboro, OR
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 04:16:49 GMT

In article <717725678@kao.cs.duke.edu> kao@duke.cs.duke.edu (Ming Kao) writes:
>I am thinking about buying a large acrylic tank. Do acrylic tanks
>get scratched easily? 

It is easier to scratch an acrylic tank than to scratch a glass tank.
A little care goes a long way in preventing scratches.

On the other hand, if a tank does get scratched, it's much easier to
remove scratches from acrylic than from glass.
-- 
Patti Beadles  503/696-4358 | I don't speak for Intel, nor vice-versa.
   patti@hosehead.intel.com |
   75555.767@compuserve.com | Practice random kindness and
or just yell, "Hey, Patti!" |                  senseless acts of beauty.
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: babak@NOC.Vitalink.COM (Babak Roushanaee)
Subject: Angelfish for sale
Organization: Vitalink Communications Corporation, US
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 18:32:42 GMT

I have recently managed to breed Angel fish at home in my fresh water tanks and I
hate to sell them to pet store since they are not cared for well.
They incredible looking and come in three different types of genes:
	1- Pure Black Lace Angelfish
	2- Pure Gold Lace Angelfish
	3- Gold Veil Angels
(non of that unattrative silver marble.) 

They are highly resistant to disease and very healthy.  Their body sizes ranges
from a nickle to a half dollar and with their fins open they are any where from 1
to 5 inches tall. Depending on the size and the color I want $1 to $4 for them.
They are a must see.
The parents body size are about the palm an adult man and with their fins on they
are about 16 inches tall.
I live in Fremont, Ca 94555 ( that is San Francisco Bay area) and can be reached
at the following numbers:
			510-440-2426 W
			510-505-9562 H

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Babak Roushanaee                         Internet: babak@NOC.Vitalink.COM   
 Vitalink Communications, Fremont, CA     Phone:    +1 510-440-2426           
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1992 01:31:23 EDT
From: <HCM100@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: Lobster Gas Exchange

In article <430@bertha.HyperDesk.com>, ahughes@arch386.hyperdesk.com (Arch
Hughes) says:
>
>We were wondering at lunch yesterday how lobsters "breath".  Do they
>have gills?
>

I believe that if you pick up their tails you will see a series of little
flaps that are used for breathing (well, exchanging gas).  These are
constantly in motion when they are alive and are removed surrepititiously
when they are broiled.  :-)  With lots of butter.  Yeah, butter.  And lemon.

*  Hans C. Masing        |  "When you go in for a job interview, I  *
*  HCM100@PSUVM.psu.edu  |   think a good thing to ask is if they   *
*  Penn State MIS Dept.  |   ever press charges." - Jack Handey     *
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:5133 rec.aquaria:7667
From: ffujita@s.psych.uiuc.edu (Frank Fujita)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Killing the "Bad" Bacteria
Date: 29 Sep 92 17:49:43 GMT
Article-I.D.: news.BvCpIv.9Mv
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana

oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev) writes:
>	Gram-negative bacteria will not be affected by the drugs that kill
>	gram-positive bacteria and vice-versa.

Can somebody explain this to me.  Are nitrosomas and nitrobacter
Gram-positive or Gram negative?  What do these terms refer to?  I
thought it was just a ploy to get people to put twice as much medicine
in their tanks, but if Oleg believes it, there must be something to it.

Frank Fujita
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
From: james@bilver.uucp (James Anderson)
Subject: Where can I find out about stands
Organization: W. J. Vermillion - Winter Park, FL
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1992 12:49:28 GMT

In article <1aebtaINNs4p@caldera.usc.edu> tli@cisco.com,patti@hosehead.hf.intel.com writes:
>			       Water Quality
>

Well I don't know if this is a frequently asked question, but I 
would like to know if anyone knows of a book, magazine or article
that explores methods of building Aquarium tank stands?

I have a 45gal Long that needs a stand.  I have seen some in the pet stores
made from 2x4's and was wondering if anyone new where I could get
plans for them.


Thanks
James Anderson
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: tpehrson@javelin.sim.es.com (tim clinkenpeel)
Subject: 'stained glass' fish - genuine or modified fakes?
Reply-To: tpehrson@javelin.sim.es.com
Organization: Evans & Sutherland Computer Corporation
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 19:56:57 GMT

please help settle a dispute:

are 'stained glass' fish -- transparent fish with a various bright colors down
the back -- a bona-fide variety of fish or a fallacious novelty created by
injecting dye?

thanks.

-- 
	       there is no religion when a man has  good curry
				       -
      tim clinkenpeel: aberrant analytical skeptical agnostic idealist.
		     -- i exclusively represent myself --
From: isaac@hightop.nrl.navy.mil (Debi Isaac)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: Oscar Advice Needed
Date: 5 Oct 92 17:54:14 GMT
Organization: Naval Research Labs (Washington DC)
Originator: isaac@hightop

In article <1992Oct5.165820.27418@cbnewsm.cb.att.com> lhh@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (leonard.h.horn) writes:
>
>Now I would like to set up an OSCAR tank !!
>I would like to use a 55 gallon 
>	If this is really too small then let me know.
>How many OSCARs can go in a 55 ?
>I hoped at least 2 so that they would have company.
>Can I (Should I) also have a pleco/catfish to clean up all
>the "crumbs" (I hear Oscars are very messy eaters)
	I have had the experience of "while they are relatively small..
	4 inches or less, you can keep a pleco with them, but a friend
	of mine came home the other day and the head of his pleco was gone
	(this was a 6 inch oscar)
>Can I get away with manufactured cichlid (or Koi ?) food and still have
>good growth AND COLOR ?
	Our oscar, "BuBa" was about 1" long when he came home from the pet
	store.  He was much too little to eat feeder guppies, or anything
	else that swam.  We know this because we bought some.  Poor BuBa,
	he actually caught one, and there it was, at least two-thirds of it
	hanging out of his mouth.  He did not seem to know what to do with
	it.  We, not wanting to loose him, began to give him cichlid food 
	(we shared the angel's food with him.  And we gave him
	freeze-dried tubiflex worms.  
	But what he REALLY LIKED (and was his staple) was the
	ornamental fish food sticks, the small ones.  He is about 6-7
	inches long now, 6-7 months old.  When he was about 3 inches long
	we tried the feeder guppies, again.  This time he knew what to do
	with them.  But to this day, HE STILL LOVES his sticks, and gets
	several each day.
>Any special advice needed concerning heaters ?
	We keep BuBa with aw temperature of 78-80 degrees F.
>Suggestions on tank decoration (I would like it to be a display tank).
	Buba likes toys!!  Every decoration we place in the 29 gal long 
	aquarium, he tears up, knocks over or moves.  He also digs up the
	gravel to clear off places down to the plain glass bottom.  Then he
	turns over on his side to looookkk down under.  (maybe he's just a
	little wierd??) 

		hope this helps,
			Debi
From: ahughes@arch386.hyperdesk.com (Arch Hughes)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Lobster Gas Exchange
Date: 3 Oct 92 00:00:37 GMT
Reply-To: arch@hyperdesk.com
Organization: HyperDesk Corporation

We were wondering at lunch yesterday how lobsters "breath".  Do they
have gills?

-- 
o o|  Arch Hughes, HyperDesk Corp.        Phone   508-366-5050 x103
o o|  Suite 300, 2000 West Park Dr.       Fax     508-898-3841
---+  Westboro, MA   01581                E-Mail  arch@hyperdesk.com
From: matthews@xerox.com (Dave Matthews)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Need plans for Protein Skimmer, reef filters, lighting
Date: 29 Sep 92 18:59:20 GMT
Reply-To: dmatt.henr801h@xerox.com
Organization: Xerox Corporation, Webster NY

I am considering setting up a 20 - 30 gallon reef tank and would like plans for building a protein skimmer and
the other components of a reef filtration and lighting system.  I have successfully kept salt tanks in
the past but had to get rid of them when we had a baby.   

What books are the best on the subjects of reef tanks and building filtration and lighting components?

Please send to dmatt.henr801h@xerox.com , the from address won't work.

Thanks,
Dave
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: thester@nyx.cs.du.edu (Uncle Fester)
Subject: Re: 'stained glass' fish - genuine or modified fakes?
X-Disclaimer: Nyx is a public access Unix system run by the University
	of Denver for the Denver community.  The University has neither
	control over nor responsibility for the opinions of users.
Organization: Nyx, Public Access Unix at U. of Denver Math/CS dept.
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 92 22:19:11 GMT

In article <1992Oct6.195657.4581@javelin.sim.es.com> tpehrson@javelin.sim
es.com writes:
>please help settle a dispute:
>
>are 'stained glass' fish -- transparent fish with a various bright color
 down
>the back -- a bona-fide variety of fish or a fallacious novelty created 
y
>injecting dye?
>
>thanks.
>
>-- 
>	       there is no religion when a man has  good curry
>				       -
>      tim clinkenpeel: aberrant analytical skeptical agnostic idealist.
>		     -- i exclusively represent myself --


Pure, unadulterated fakery.  In a few months, the injected dye will fade,
and you will be left with a fish that is as plain and uninteresting as a
Bush campaign promise.
I advise that anyone NOT purchase this fish in its colored form.  This
would only serve to encourage the continued fraud.  A reputable dealer
will inform you of the fakery.  Many will not, since they only desire a
sale and we don't need more of their kind.
Some may consider this practice a harmless novelty.  This is true when the
consumer is made aware of the way in which this fish attains its color. 
Overall, (sadly) most dealers of these fakes, make no attempt to draw any
attention to this.  Beginners are taken in, and are parted from their
money only to learn later when they believe their fish is 'sick' that
there is no 'cure'.
Any product, be it fish or lug-nuts, should only be sold under totally
truthful circumstances.  Anything less, regardless of how cheap the cost,
is dishonest and serves only to make a buck no matter what.

Uncle Fester

--
:  Master,                        :       Uncle Fester       : Printed  :
:    Me and Rex took the kar      :   thester@nyx.cs.du.edu  : on 100%  :
:    to town. Stay home. Stay!    :         -or try-         :recyclable:
:       Ha ha ha ha.   The dog.   :    T.HESTER4 on GEnie    : phosphor :
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Subject: Re: Killing the "Bad" Bacteria
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 92 12:37:58 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)

In article <1992Sep28.174707.10660@ncsu.edu> paeckman@eos.ncsu.edu (PATRICIA A ECKMAN) writes:
>How do you kill "bad" bacteria in a FW tank without killing the
>"good" bacteria, too?  

There isn't any perfectly safe and sure way.  Here are some ideas:

	Anaerobic bacteria are usually affected by the elevated oxygen levels.

	Gram-negative bacteria will not be affected by the drugs that kill
	gram-positive bacteria and vice-versa.

	You can (and *should*) take the affected fish out of the tank and
	medicate them in a "hospital" tank, where you will not have to worry
	about the "good" bacteria.

>The most recent outbreak has one of the cory cats with ragged looking
>fins on top and swimming on its side.  

Sounds bacterial.  Probably a secondary infection.  It's possible that
something in your water is not healthy or that the gravel/decorations are
leaching something toxic into the water.  

If all else fails, you should sterilize the tank (with bleach or
concentrated salt solution) and discard and replace the gravel and
decorations.

Keep in mind that there are such things as "sic tanks".  I had ran into a
couple in my life.  I suspect the toxicity is caused by substandard or
inappropriate glue and plastic used by the manufacturer.  You can leave the
tank filled with occasionally changed water for a few months to let the
toxins leach out.  Or you may have to replace the tank.
-- 
Oleg Kiselev at home			...use the header to find the path
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: pyuen@qualcomm.com (Patrick Yuen)
Subject: Re: Happy tank? or just strange fish behaviour
Organization: Qualcomm, Inc., San Diego, CA
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 21:53:06 GMT

In article <1992Sep30.161606.11402@bcars6a8.bnr.ca>, dlang@bcars68a.bnr.ca (David Lang) writes:
[other questions and stuff deleted]

>    3) our clown loaches feed at the top of the tank only.  The larger
>       used to eat at the bottom, as most loaches do.  About six months
>       ago, there were some problems in the tank and the water 
>       conditions became non-ideal for this loach (or so we suspect). He
>       stopped eating and became really thin. We were afraid we'd lose
>       him. Then we sorted out the chemistry problem with the water and
>       he started feeding again, but at the top of the tank. A month or
>       so later we added our smaller clown loach, who began feeding at
>       the top of the tank.  Is this a learned behaviour (did he/she
>       learn this from the larger loach, who seemed to figure out that
>       he could get more food at the top even though this tank is well
>       balanced and well nourished.)  Has anyone else observed loaches
>       feeding only at the top of the tank?
> 
>  

I have a loach who likes to turn upside down and eat at the surface.
He (she) ate at the bottom at first (maybe a couple of days), then started
to catch the flakes as they drifted down, then ate at the surface right
side up.  Finally he figured out it was easier and faster if he turned
upside down so that his body is parallel to the surface, so that's what 
he does all the time.  He has been healthy the entire time I've had him 
and he is the only loach in the tank so he sure didn't learn it from 
anyone else.  I have never personally seen any other loaches do this.
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:5179 rec.aquaria:7769 sci.aquaria:1411
From: rbennet1@neumann.une.edu.au (Robert Bennetts.)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
Subject: [M] parasitic infection of coral.
Keywords: coral parasite help
Date: 4 Oct 92 12:40:23 GMT
Followup-To: poster


	Help...

	One of my corals is very unhappy, and seems to have tiny little worms spiralled up near it's polyps.
	Is this some kind of parasitic infection, and if so how can it be treated.
	Sorry I can't be more specific about anything, but any help at all would be greatly appreciated.

	Ross Bennetts...

		rbennet1@neumann.une.edu.au


Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:5182 rec.aquaria:7772
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Feeding Young Oscars
From: jmartine@zeus.calpoly.edu (Joe Martinez)
Date: Sun, 04 Oct 1992 18:26:20 GMT
Organization: California Polytechnic State University, San Luis Obispo

  I just recently bought a young oscar, that is about 1" long, not including
the tail.

I have been feeding him live brine shrimp and live tubifex worms, and in the
2 days that I have had him, he is looking even better than he did in the
store. His black is darker, and his red is brighter.

What I want to know is: 

Is he big enough for feeder guppies?

If not, when?

Is there someting else I should be feeding him? 

Is there a packaged food that I should/could give him? 

How about that Hikari Cichlid Staple/Gold?

How fast do they grow?

How long will it be until he will need more than, say, his own 20g tank?

Will he get along with community fish at this age?

Thanks.

-- 
Joe Martinez  (jmartine@ares.calpoly.edu)
"If a man is considered guilty for what goes on in his mind, give me the
 electric chair for all my future crimes."
                                             -Prince       
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: afloosk@lims02.lerc.nasa.gov (KURT LOOS)
Subject: Re: (M) micro-reef hardware?
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Keywords: micro-reef hardware
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
Distribution: usa
Date: 28 Sep 1992 07:29 EST  

In article <1992Sep23.192635.6003@cbnews.cb.att.com>, wkb@cbnews.cb.att.com (wm.keith.brummett) writes...
> 
>    I've seen a few references to Julian Sprung and his famous 15-gallon
>    micro-reef tank.  I understand he has about 15 lbs. of live rock, a
>    dozen or so fish, and about a zillion inverts in this thing.  I have a
>    couple of spare 20H tanks sitting about, and am toying with the idea
>    of setting up a (somewhat less ambitious) small reef.  Julian's tank
>    has been around for at least a couple of years, I think, so I consider
>    it stable enough to emulate.
> 
>    Does anyone have any pointers to the hardware Julian uses?  I've heard
>    that filtration is just a skimmer, but I don't know the size, brand,
>    etc.  Does he use a sump?  And, rather importantly, what sort of
>    lighting does he use?  I can't imagine MHs over a 15 -- does he use
>    fluorescents?  What size, what flavor?  Also, does he regularly add any
>    trace minerals or other additives?
> 
>    Might all of this be documented anywhere?  Thanks for any leads.
> 
>    -- Keith
> 
>-- 
>    | (614) 860-3187         Copyright (C) 1992, by       AT&T, Room 3B202 |
>    | att!cblph!wkb  or,     W.K. Brummett and AT&T      6200 E. Broad St. |
>    | wkb@cblph.att.com       All rights reserved.      Columbus, OH 43213 |
>    `----------------------------------------------------------------------'

Julian uses a Tunze skimmer in a sump that is bigger than the actual tank (
20 gal I think). He used to use a bunch of misc. flourescents but now uses 
a powerstar MH. Additives are calcium, strontium, and iodine. I don't think 
he uses anything else but I could be wrong. Most of this info I got from 
him either bytalking to him or by going to his speeches in Cleveland and at 
MACNA in Florida. He also has a two part article in SEA-SCOPE.

Kurt


Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: cbc1@Ra.MsState.Edu (christopher b carey)
Subject: Re: 'stained glass' fish - genuine or modified fakes?
Organization: Mississippi State University
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 22:27:59 GMT

tpehrson@javelin.sim.es.com (tim clinkenpeel) writes:

>please help settle a dispute:

>are 'stained glass' fish -- transparent fish with a various bright colors down
>the back -- a bona-fide variety of fish or a fallacious novelty created by
>injecting dye?

>thanks.

The only ones I've ever seen always faded after a couple of weeks.
I would say that they are injected with dye, and that's why I don't buy them.

I also remember someone on the net saying that this was true, but I don't 
remember who it was.

Chris Carey
--
Got those wishing I was out of school so I could see my girl on
a regular basis blues.

Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: bhaskar@brtph598.bnr.ca (Shaji Bhaskar)
Subject: Re: Madagascar Lace
Organization: Bell Northern Research Inc.
Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1992 13:04:59 GMT

In article <1992Oct5.091627.13953@mr.med.ge.com> bednarek@picard.med.ge.com (Dennis Bednarek Mfg 4-6971) writes:

>In the past I have never had luck with Madagascar Lace plants, and I
>concider them a strong enough chalange to try again.  Does any one in
>net land have any luck with them?  If so what are the secrets of keeping
>them green?   
>What are you lighting conditions? etc.?

The Lace Plant is an Aponogeton, and, as with all Aponogetons, it is
best to buy only those plants that are growing quickly in the pet
store.

Most Aponogetons have a growth period followed by a period of
dormancy.  In the dormant period, they should be rested in cool water
if they are to survive year after year.

A Lace plant in it's growth period is easy to keep.

-Shaji
-- 
Shaji Bhaskar     BNR, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709     (bhaskar@bnr.ca) 
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
From: bob@hubcap.clemson.edu (Bob)
Subject: Resealing a 75 gallon tank
Keywords: seal
Organization: Clemson University
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 19:12:27 GMT

Thanks for all the replys!

A lot of you say that I should totally dismantle the tank and redo all
the seals. The sealant between the glass pieces on the corners seems to
be fine. I was saying that just the bead along the inside corners is
coming apart. Do you still suggest that I tear it down and start again
or can I just cut off the sealant on the inside and redo that. I ordered
some perfecto sealant from That Fish Place. If I do tear the tank down
would that be good enough to re-glue the tank together and do the inside
seams? I am trying to avoid tearing the tank apart but, if that is what
is necessary I am willing to do it.

Thanks again

Bob Staaf
bob@hubcap.clemson.edu

Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:5203 rec.aquaria:7810
From: ahughes@arch386.hyperdesk.com (Arch Hughes)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Penguin 660-R Question
Date: 5 Oct 92 23:16:37 GMT
Reply-To: arch@hyperdesk.com
Organization: HyperDesk Corporation

I bought a Penguin 660-R power head from That Fish Place (delivered
cost about $23.50) and installed it at home.  When I applied power to
it it run making a continuous series of clicking noises, each lasting
aobut a second, spaced a second or two apart.  The noises are the same
as the noise that my Aquaclear 201 makes at start up; the noise of the
impeller being brought up to speed by the spinning shaft.

The box of the Peguin says that it's silent.  I presume that either
the impeller or the field generator is bad.

Would you agree?

Just an aside...other than noise the pre-filter scheme they have for
the Penguin series seems perfect for RUGF use.  The sell the "reverse
filter kit (RFK)" for the Penguin series if you already have one of
their power heads.  The ability to strap the prefilter on the unit is
much better than the Aquaclear 402 or 802 (or is it 804?) "unfiltered"
scheme.  Also, the penguin pumps are much smaller and don't have a
reduced flow rate in reverse mode compared to their forward mode.  The
Aquaclear power heads have about a 50% drop in flow when reversed.

-- 
o o|  Arch Hughes, HyperDesk Corp.        Phone   508-366-5050 x103
o o|  Suite 300, 2000 West Park Dr.       Fax     508-898-3841
---+  Westboro, MA   01581                E-Mail  arch@hyperdesk.com
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: rg@atoll.cray.com (Rich Garrett)
Subject: Re: Ram Cichlids...
Nntp-Posting-Host-[nntpd-20846]: atoll.navo.navy.mil
Reply-To: rg@atoll.cray.com (Rich Garrett)
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 20:29:27 GMT

mhatz@nyx.cs.du.edu (Mike Hatz) writes:
>I the group's collective advice and got 4 Ram cichlids for my little 10 gallon
>this weekend.  I do have 2 questions though:
>
>1)  What is the most accurate way to sex them?  I am looking at their little
>"punk" hairdos and the eye bars.

The traditional method of sexing rams has been that mails have extended rays
on the first few dorsal spines.  This is a 100% accurate method of sexing
papilocromis ramerezi (sp).  The best method I have seen is to look closely
at the dark spot on the side of the fish.  one sex has silver flecks in
the spot and the other sex doesn't.  I cannot remember which sex has the
flecks, but only one will have them.  
rams are substrate spawners, so give them a flat rock, soft, slightly acid
water, soft lights, romantic music and wait a while.

rich garrett
rg@atoll.navo.navy.mil
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria