HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: martin@lyra.cis.umassd.edu (Gary Martin)
Subject: Re: Donna Coates, of Australia, where are you??
Organization: University of Massachusetts Dartmouth
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 03:29:17 GMT

In article <1992Jul27.212702.11101@cs.unca.edu> mcmahan@cs.unca.edu (Scott McMahan -- Genesis mailing list owner) writes:

   zoltar@glasgow.amigans.gen.nz (Grant Thoms) writes:

   :I keep trying your email address of Jamiaca@deakin.oz.au  but mail bounces.

   Gosh, Zolar, maybe she's trying to tell you something?

   Scott

More likely it's just that you're spelling Jamaica incorrectly.


--
Gary A. Martin, Assistant Professor of Mathematics, UMass Dartmouth
Martin@cis.umassd.edu
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:4393 rec.aquaria:6125 sci.aquaria:1163
From: kwg@creare.COM (Kent Goeking)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
Subject: My first anemone
Date: 30 Jul 92 17:49:09 GMT
Article-I.D.: creare.13405
Reply-To: kwg@creare.UUCP (Kent Goeking)
Followup-To: alt.aquaria
Organization: Creare Inc., Hanover, NH

I thinking about putting an anemone into my present fish only marine tank and I
would like some advise for an invertebrate neophyte.  I am looking to try
something relatively inexpensive and hardy if possible.  My local aquarium
store carries two varieties of low price anemones simply labeled "atlantic
anemone" and "pacific anemone".  The atlantic variety is cheaper and has
browish white tenacles while the pacific version is whiter with purple tips on
the tenacles.  Can anyone give me some advice about these creatures?  

    In particular,

        1)  how hardy are they, wrt nitrate level, lighting level, etc.
        2)  how difficult are they to feed? what do they eat?
        3)  will they be bothered by fish?

Thanks


-- 
^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~
Kent Goeking (kwg@creare.com)| "We are continually faced with a series of
Creare Inc., P.O. 71         |  opportunities brilliantly disguised as
Hanover, New Hampshire 03755 |  insoluble problems"  - John W. Gardner
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: harold@wam.umd.edu (James B. Harold)
Subject: Hyacinths (was Re: brackish tank info needed)
Organization: University of Maryland, College Park
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 14:36:56 GMT

In article <1992Jul24.140635.11224@cbnewsl.cb.att.com> mattk@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (matthew.kaufman) writes:
>>
>One thing about Eichornia crasspes - it ain't that easy to grow - it
>needs to float, (no lid on the tank,) it likes real strong light and
>lots of trace elements and iron in the water. I've done well with it
>indoors with about 8 wpg of mixed fluorescent lights. It's a messy plant,
>too, sheds leaves and roots. It does consume a lot of fish output though -
>I was using it as my only filter in a tank when I was fooling with it.

You do need lots of light, but once the stuff gets established, look
out....  I have 'em in a 60g cube, lit by a single metal halide, and
I pull out probably 2 plants a week (and I try to only let them
cover the back third of the tank...)  I don't find them "messy", 
but I'd make two suggestions.  (1) Pull leaves as soon as they
start to age (discoloration of the "float" part below the waterline,
for instance).  (2) Instead of always yanking new plants, 
occasionally leave the new ones and yank the old ones.  That
gets rid of old root systems.  Also be careful of young plants:
I've found that if they're detached from the main plant too early
they tend to kick off.

If you have an appropriate tank (open topped, lots of light), try
them out.  As a bio-filter, they're easier to harvest then
submerged plants.  Fish *love* the roots, for breeding, hiding,
whatever.  The blooms are pretty, too (though they only seem
to last one day...kindof a drag).  But once established they
will try to take over...you have to harvest regularly. 

James Harold
harold@wam.umd.edu
From: booth@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (George Booth)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 14:41:43 GMT
Subject: Re: Need net wisdom asap - must decide (by 7/17) to return or keep wet/dry
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria

In alt.aquaria, mstephens.520@postman.gsfc.nasa.gov (mark stephens) writes:

    Don't know about the surface scum, but something is keeping my near
    bio-filterless tank alive.  Eventhough I want to, I'm not touching

Er, ah, I didn't mean the surface area of the water, I meant the surface
area of the tank itself - the glass sides and surface of the gravel or
rocks or whatever.

Sorry about the confusion.

--------
George
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:4356 rec.aquaria:6077
From: tmkst6@pitt.edu (Theodore M Kostek)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: some beginner's problems
Date: 28 Jul 92 19:05:40 GMT
Followup-To: alt.aquaria
Organization: University of Pittsburgh
Originator: tmkst6@unix.cis.pitt.edu


For Christmas I got a 10 gallon aquarium, and since then I have
had almost no end of problems.  The averages lifespan of my fish 
is about 2 mos, and I really am getting frustrated.  I've read a 
couple start up books, but this doesn't seem to help all that much.
I'm on the verge of filling it with goldfish just to stop the killing.

The tank has an undergravel filter, a hood with two 15 watt incadescent
lights; I feed them once a day.  I've been having trouble with the temp
since I am on the 3rd floor w/o air but it's between 72-88.  

My first additions were 1 female swordtail and 2 male, fancy guppies 2 male/1
female.  The fancy guppies died within like 2 weeks.  I think this was 
because I added too many fish to start with - is that right?

A couple weeks later, I got a fiddler crab and 3 silver tipped tetras.
I think that the crab died because he couldn't get enough air - contrary to
what the fish store told me. >:-(  Then one of the swordtails got sick 
inexplicablly.  I tried a variety of treatements, but he died anyway.  

In the process of moving, I killed another.  I then tried to added 
4 neon tetras.  They all got abused pretty badly.  At least I guess, since
several quickly lacked tails.  Two died.  Then my roommate gave me 6 guppies
from his father's tank.  The neons stopped getting abused, and I thought 
everything was happy, but suddenly, in the last week, all the guppies and
the swordtail died.  Now the Silver Tipped Tetras are back to abusing
and chasing the poor neons, and I kinda think that the Silver tipped are
sick looking, too.  

I'm tempted to just flush all of them, wash the tank, and start completely
over.  Does this sound like a good idea?  My roomate said he thinks that
since I don't ahve any algae growing, he thinks my tank is not healthy.
Could this be?  The tank doesn't get direct sunlight, and due to the heat
output I haven't been using the lamps much; I thought this would explain the 
lack of algae.  

I just found this group and was reading some stuff about pH.  Could 
this be my problem?  Also, I've heard that some cities put copper in 
their water to combat algae - does Pittsburgh do this (any 'Burghers out
there?)  If there are any Burgh types around, where is a good place to 
get fish locally?


Any help you can give an aspiring aquarist is greatly appreciated.


	
			TEd
From: wood-smithc@vaxb.gbus.virginia.edu (Chrissi Wood-Smith)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Angel Fish that lost it's balance
Date: 29 Jul 92 17:14:23 GMT
Organization: Darden Center, University of Virginia

I posted a note last week to the sci.aquaria and never heard back from 
anyone.  I have a three year old angel that mysterously lost its equilibrium 
one weekend.  It would swim rear-end pointing down and one upside down.  I 
treated the tank with gram negative antiboitic to prevent and secondary 
infection and prayed for my little buddy.  He has recovered in a week and a 
half, but reverts to this bizarre posture occasionally.  Any suggestions, 
cures, or advice would help.  Thanks, Chrissi 
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:4386 rec.aquaria:6115
Date: Thursday, 30 Jul 1992 17:21:12 EDT
From: <KRUCK@wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject:    DIY cooler ideas

Three ideas I wanted to throw to the DIY cooler people...

1. Is it possible to buy a used cooler for bottled water and
   run the water through that? Seems like you could get one
   from a folding business fairly cheap (I'd shoot for 50 bucks).

2. How about buying an old dorm fridge for 50 bucks (2 cu. ft.)
   and doing either of the following:

  A.  drill holes in the top and bottom of the door and coil a
      lot of tubing inside. Use it like a giant condensation
      coil (water pumped in the bottom, out the top back into
      your sump.

  B.  take the same fridge, but take it apart (or even take a
      small air conditioner?) and immerse the inner coils (the
      ones that cool down) into water, and pump that water through
      coiled tubing in your sump. The closer your apparatus to
      the sump, the more efficient. If you could get coils cold
      enough to maintain an ice coating, you could put it straight
      into the sump, but that's high risk in case the ice ever
      melted, the coils would be in contact with the water.

Just hook up a thermostat to your tank to control the power to
whichever method you go with, all done.

                 Comments expected, welcome, invited, etc.

                                             Kruck
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:4340 rec.aquaria:6037
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: enenkel@cs.toronto.edu (Robert Frederick Enenkel)
Subject: Unfiltered Tanks (Was: Re: Need net wisdom asap...)
Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of Toronto
Date: 27 Jul 92 14:38:10 GMT

booth@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (George Booth) writes:
>In alt.aquaria, enenkel@cs.toronto.edu (Robert Frederick Enenkel) writes:
>    booth@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (George Booth) writes:
>
>    >break down ammonia, no matter how it is filtered. I would venture a 
>    >guess that just the surface area of the tank itself is sufficient.
>
>    Ooooh.  You can't possibly mean that.  Robert Enenkel
>
>Well, why not?  I'm sure filter manufacturers would not like to hear 
>something like that.  Does anybody have an under-filtered tank that could
>give us some guidelines?  An under-filtered tank in this context is a 
>tank that has been set up for over two months (or long enough for bacteria
>to develop) and that cannot keep up with the biological production 
>of ammonia.  

Are you for real?  Or are we talking about two different things without
realising it?  Put enough fish in any tank and the ammonia will go through
the roof even with a filter.  So you must be assuming something about the
fish load.  But without a filter the maximum allowable load is very small.
I found that a 100 gal tank with an airstone cannot digest the ammonia from
four 3" long common goldfish.  It had more than two months to get established.
The ammonia-nitrogen level was 5-10 ppm.  (I did water changes so it wouldn't
go above that).

Robert Enenkel
From: niederriter@vax2.gac.edu (Chuck)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Plans for Protein Skimmer and/or Trickle Filter
Date: 28 Jul 92 16:57:41 GMT
Organization: Physics Department, Gustavus Adolphus College

Does anyone out there have plans for a build it yourself protein skimmer or 
trickle filter that they could share?  Thanks.
Chuck Niederriter
niederriter@gac.edu  
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:4378 rec.aquaria:6108
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: enenkel@cs.toronto.edu (Robert Frederick Enenkel)
Subject: Re: [F] Sorry about "my" article in AFM
Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of Toronto
Date: 30 Jul 92 14:15:59 GMT

booth@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (George Booth) writes:
> 
>From Ed Bauman:
>
>I have noticed a number of postings on the net concerning _AFM_ and its
>contents, as well as the "hack" job done on Geroge and Karla's plant
>articles.  These comments seem to lack insight as to the editorial process,
>the purpose of _AFM_ or the reasons for certain editorial decisions.

A lot of grief could be saved by the seemingly obvious process of sending
the author of an article the final copy for approval prior to publication.
This would catch "lost" or "accidently deleted" sections, captions that don't
match pictures, etc.

Robert Enenkel
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: wkb@cbnews.cb.att.com (wm.keith.brummett)
Subject: Re: AFM subsciption
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 22:59:26 GMT


    In article <riaz.23@tlc-486.clemson.edu>, riaz@tlc-486.clemson.edu (Riaz
    Lalani) writes:
    > ...  I misplaced the info about how to subscribe to AFM for 2 yrs
    > for 1 yr price.  Would someone please email me that info.  Thanks.


    Well, I, for one, am not going to bother renewing my subscription.  I
    like the mag OK, but those that I get in the mail are in terrible shape.
    Not a month goes by that I don't receive a crumpled AFM, or one with the
    cover torn off, or something similar.  I receive lots of magazines, and
    AFM is the only one with this problem.  Anyone else see this, or am I
    the only one having such problems?  BTW, I'll probably buy the mag every
    month from the local pet store.

    -- Keith

-- 
    | (614) 860-3187         Copyright (C) 1992, by       AT&T, Room 3B202 |
    | att!cblph!wkb  or,     W.K. Brummett and AT&T      6200 E. Broad St. |
    | wkb@cblph.att.com       All rights reserved.      Columbus, OH 43213 |
    `----------------------------------------------------------------------'
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:4395 rec.aquaria:6127
From: ahughes@arch386.hyperdesk.com (Arch Hughes)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Wonderlites -- where?
Keywords: wonderlites
Date: 31 Jul 92 16:51:11 GMT
Reply-To: arch@hyperdesk.com
Distribution: usa
Organization: HyperDesk Corporation

In article <1992Jul21.150945.9858@philabs.philips.com>, tal@ubu.philips.com (Tal Barnea) writes:
> Although I don't have their literature in front of me, I believe you
> can buy it from them (and maybe only from them?).
> 
> BTW, does anyone have any experience or opinions regarding the suitability
> of these lights for a marine/reef tank (as a cheap alternative for MH)?
> 
> 
>        Tal Barnea                         tal@philabs.philips.com
>        Philips Laboratories                       - or -       
>        (914) 945-6275                 {uunet|ihnp4|decvax}!philabs!tal

I had saved this information from email correspondence with the
original poster about the Wonderlights.  Here 'ya go.

From: Gary Bishop <gb@cs.unc.edu>
Subject: It's a Wonderful Light

[some stuff about hex tank tops removed]

They make some nice looking pendant fixtures for hanging from the
ceiling.  The wonderlight would look good like that.  I couldn't do it
because the aquarium is well away from any wall and the wife didn't
want a cord across the ceiling or a hole in the ceiling.  You wouldn't
need a fan with even 8 inches of spacing.

I like mine.
gb
-------------------------------

Their address

Public Service Lamp
410 West 16th Street
New York, N.Y. 10011
Tel (212) 989-5557

Toll free outside New York State:

800-221-4392


BTW...I'm trying to get hold of Gary regarding where I can get a glass
top for my 35 gallon hex.  My local retailer says he can't find them
from his normal wholesalers.  Anyone got any leads?  (I need one that
goes 19" side to side.)

-- 
o o|  Arch Hughes, HyperDesk Corp.        Phone   508-366-5050 x103
o o|  Suite 300, 2000 West Park Dr.       Fax     508-898-3841
---+  Westboro, MA   01581                E-Mail  arch@hyperdesk.com
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
From: bcs33424@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Bryan Siegfried)
Subject: Re: long, short tank ideas
Reply-To: zig@uiuc.edu
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 1992 05:05:27 GMT

mstephens.520@postman.gsfc.nasa.gov (mark stephens) writes:

>A native stream (have to get a fishing licence here in 
>MD) but I don't know much about native fish and worry about the living room being
>too hot. 

	I don't know about Maryland, but in Illinois, it's illegal
to keep native fish in tanks.  It's a strange law, considering that
you can eat them.  But of course, what the likelihood that some
cop's going to nail you for it...

__
Bryan Siegfried
From: pclark@ds5000.DAC.Northeastern.edu (Peter Clark)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: some beginner's problems
Summary: Hmm...  Let's see here what happens...
Date: 29 Jul 92 17:35:30 GMT
Organization: Northeastern University, Boston MA. USA 02115

OK, if I am reading this right you got a tank, with a biological
undergravel filter.  You put in water, and then dumped in fish?

OK, I would say that is your first mistake. I should have included a copy
of your article while editing here so that I could refer back to it, but I
do not recall you mentioning that you had let the tank sit running for any
length of time.  That, I feel, has to be your first mistake.  I would dump
the fish (or get them to another tank if that is possible), dump out all
the water, re-fill the tank, and start again but this time put in the water,
start everything going, and then let it sit, no fish at all, for at least 2
weeks.  The undergravel filter would then have time to establish itself (all
the bacterium that are required to help purify the water).

The second thing that I do not see you mentioning, although I assume that
along the way you were doing it, is to take a siphon and get all the old
fish food out of the gravel (and thus the undergravel filter) by cleaning
the filter, siphoning any other material, and changing at least 1/4 of the
water in your tank weekly.

As for the temperature, that will kill the fish right there.  You cannot allow
the temperature to vary (I think you said that it has a varience of 12
degrees?) every day.  You have to make sure that the heater is set somewhere
between 75-80 degrees, I personally use 78 degrees, and leave it there.  The
stress of the temperature variation will harm the fish.

As for silvertips 'abusing' other fish, I have had them do that.  Silvertips
want to be in groups of odd numbers, starting at least 5.  Neon tetras like
any group, but it has to be large - my aquarist tells me at least 15 of them.
My silvertips exhibited this behaviour when there were only three of them in
my tank.  The same happened with my angelfish and my neons.

Don't feel bad, I had a lot of the same start-up problems myself.  It did get
to the point where I dumped everything, re-sterilised the tank, and re-did
it all from scratch leaving it running empty for a month.  Since then, and it
has been over 10 months now that it's been running happily, I have lost one
fish and that was a stupid silvertip that decided that it wanted to swim in
my filter :)

Good luck.
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: spz@specklec.mpifr-bonn.mpg.de (S.P.Zeidler)
Subject: Re: more on CO2 or my fish should be dead!
Organization: Max-Planck-Institut f"ur Radioastronomie
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 12:31:32 GMT

Hi,

according to a book I recently flipped thru, "Neue Wasserpflanzen-Praxis"
(New aquatic plant keeping or so), CO2 can go up to 200 ppm before fish
get seriously stressed, seeing that O2 will be up in the clouds as well
due to happy plants. The author suggests to have it at 80ppm and the
water not too soft to prevent pH swings.

regards,
	spz
-- 
        spz is S.Petra Zeidler  Copyright 1992 S.Petra Zeidler
spz@specklec.mpifr-bonn.mpg.de  
 MPI fuer Radioastronomie Bonn  
    Auf dem Huegel 69, Germany  reading prescription: cum kilo salis
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:4332 rec.aquaria:6021 sci.aquaria:1136
Date: Saturday, 25 Jul 1992 13:18:25 EDT
From: <KRUCK@wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
Subject:    [M] graduate psyche with marine animals

Hi, I'm a grad student in psyche who almost became a marine
biologist and I am looking for information on universities
that have experimental psychology programs that have faculty
interested in working with (or better, already working with)
tank-kept marine animals. This would include areas such as
learning, conditioning, etc. If anyone out there knows of a
program that offers experience in this area, _please_ e-mail
me with any information you have (names, phone numbers, or
even just university names if you know they offer this).

                                 Much thanks in advance,

                                          Keith Ruckstuhl
                                          Kruck@WVNVM
                                          Kruck@WVNVM.WVNET.EDU
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:4362 rec.aquaria:6089
From: krogers@javelin.sim.es.com (K. Rogers)
Subject: Re: (M) Iodine
Keywords: Iodine
Reply-To: krogers@javelin.sim.es.com
Organization: Evans & Sutherland Computer Corp., Salt Lake City, Utah
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 15:54:01 GMT

mdc@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (barbara.guerin) writes:

>I have been considering adding an Iodine supplement to
>my 60 gal reef .  I was reading both Thiel and Tullock's
>books on supplements and they both suggets using Iodine
>if keeping macroalgae.  I don't.  However I use ozone
>with my skimmer.  Any experience reef keepers out there
>have opinions about adding iodine.

Use iodine, it does good things for soft corals.  I know this from
personal experience.  Also, I suspect iodine addition has played a
pivotal role in the growth of some Halameda (spell?) that I never knew
was on my liverock (for 2 years).  I'm not positive because I also
increased my Ca suppliment quite a bit at the same time as I started
using iodine, but I have been adding Ca for a long time now and the
Halameda didn't show up until a few weeks after iodine addition.

>If so is Thiel's supplement the best?

I just use plain ol' tincture of iodine found in any drugstore.  I dip
the stick into the bottle and swirl it in the tank two times every day
or two.  BTW, this isn't quite as half-cocked as it may sound, I did
the concentration calculations first.  My 120 gallon tank has ~90
gallons of real water.
-- 
Keith Rogers
krogers@javelin.sim.es.com
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:4301 rec.aquaria:5980 sci.aquaria:1130