HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Forstner bits...
Date: 23 Jan 93 01:44:03 GMT
Organization: University of Arizona UNIX Users Group

In article <10070048@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM> shaw@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Shaw Moldauer) writes:
>In rec.woodworking, tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin) writes:
>
>> Don't forget that Forstner lived before Electric drills.
>
>	Don't forget, there were drill dresses long before electric
>motors...........

Funny thing is, I kinda did forget.  Real funny thing is, I have a 
hand cranked boring machine, so I have NO excuse to forget!

Tom (red in the face)
From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1993 00:12:09 GMT
Subject: Re: Table Saw Experiences
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

mlh1@bunny.gte.com (Michael Hackney) writes:
>In article <msi.727583028@buila.NSD.3Com.COM>, msi@ESD.3Com.COM (Mark
>Isfeld) wrote:
> 
>> Well, actually I have no experience in this.  I have only had the setup
>> for a month now.  So far, the yellow wheels have been succesful holding
>> the piece against the fence (as well as down), so I have not yet experienced
>> a real kickback.  (I think jointing the boards may help prevent kickback
>> also)
>> 
>> Now if one occured, I expect the board would lift up the yellow wheels
>> (since the spring tension will be only slightly higher for the first
>> portion of an inch, and the fence was holding down the spring before)
>> and the board will be able to shift on the blade, the kickback will end
>> and the board will come slaming down.
>
>Mark,
>
>I've been looking at 3rd party fences for several weeks trying to determine
>which one to buy. I've asked Biesemeyer the exact question you asked above.
>The reply, which makes sense, is that since the front bar is rectangular in
>cross-section, there is no way for the fence to lift up more than a
>fraction of an inch by rotating around it. The fence would have to
>literally break off of the front carrage assembly. A rear hook is not
>necessary but if it makes you feel better then why not!
-------

   See, my problem with this is, fine.  You lock the Biesemeyer down real
   good, you put the pressure on with your hold-down, and then you have
   a kick back, and yeah, the fence doesn't raise up enough but over 
   time, using the fence this way puts strain on it for which it was not
   designed.  Eventually the tsquare part of it twists and distorts, and
   the fence is no longer accurate or dependable.

   With a fence that locks in back, this is not a problem.

   I don't know, but if I were going to buy another, I would probably
   buy one that locks in back.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: wilson@schaefer.math.wisc.edu (Bob Wilson)
Subject: Re: Table Saw Experiences
Organization: Univ. of Wisconsin Dept. of Mathematics
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 93 18:02:01 GMT

ghandhi@bdrc.bd.com (Jamshed B. Ghandhi) writes:

>The new Unigard is called the Deluxe Unigard model XX-XXX (I forget).  I just 
>purchased one and installed it on a 10" Contractors saw with 30" unifence.  If is well 
>thought out, a far cry from the original equipment.  The switch relocation requires 
>some rewiring but is well worth the effort.  There are some adjustments needed to 
>keep the motor from interfering with the mounting brackets of the support rail but 
>these ajustments are easy to do.  The new splitter is easily removed, independant of 
>the guard and stores in a convenient slot on the arm adjacent to the switch.  The 
>guard includes a push stick with an arm-mounted tray to store it in right next to the 
>switch.  No excuse for not using it now.

>BTW, I purchased mine from Phelps Bros in upstate NY for $189 + $10 shipping.  
>They are also available from Tool Crib of the North or Tools ON Sale (I forget which) 
>for $219 delivered.

>good luck and save those fingers

>Jamshed B. Ghandhi
>Computer Aided Engineering
Can you or somebody describe to the rest of us in some detail how it
mounts? I am sure many of us would be interested in trying to fit the
new guard to some other saw, and would need to know where it mounts
(e.g. How far from the blade? To an edge of an extension table?) and
how. If anyone has mounted one of these to some other saw I think that
would be good to hear about: I would be interested in mounting one on
a Powermatic 63L, the Artisan's saw with 50" fence.
Bob Wilson
wilson@math.wisc.edu
From: cf603@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Dave Sill)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Drill press recommendations?
Date: 21 Jan 1993 12:56:50 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: cf603@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Dave Sill)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz) says:
>
>   However, there is a significant variation in quality.   If you do buy
>   a taiwan made drill press, be sure you can get an unconditional money
>   back guarantee on it for a limited period.  Then, when it arrives, 
>   set it up, tune it, and put a dial guage on it to make sure it turns
>   smoothly with little play.  This is what I did.  I had less than .002
>   of wobble on the chuck, which is perfectly acceptable.
>
>   Considering that this drill press cost me $125 + tax, and a similar
>   Delta model is $295.00, I am quite satisfied.

This is good advice, but one must factor in the cost of the dial indicator
if it's necessary to buy one.  But I think it's better to spend the money
on a tool like a dial indicator that can be used to verify other tools than
it is to spend it on the vague assurance of adequate quality that a name
brand carries.

So how much runout is acceptable in a drill press?
-- 
Dave Sill
Play: cf603@cleveland.freenet.edu
Work: de5@ornl.gov
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: HOCK INFO PLEASE
From: stericker_r@qis.dofasco.ca
Date: 22 Jan 93 15:20:22 GMT
Organization: Dofasco Inc, Hamilton, Ont. Can.
Nntp-Posting-User: stericker_r

I see there was a discussion of Hock plane blades on the net today.
Unfortuately the server here seems to have trashed the contents of the 
posts.  If someone could mail them to me, or any information on experience 
with or availablity of these blades I would be most gratefull.  I would 
really like to know if there is a Canadian source for these blades.  

Thanks,

Ray
-- 
************************************************************************
Ray Stericker					Opinions expressed are
Process Software Analyst			my own, and not those of
Dofasco 					Dofasco etc.......
Hamilton Ontario, Canada
************************************************************************
From: steveo@custard.think.com (stephen anthony)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: NYW bashing; was 'HOMETIME'
Date: 25 Jan 93 10:36:01
Organization: Thinking Machines Corporation, Cambridge MA, USA
	<1993Jan22.180029.15463@informix.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: custard.think.com
In-reply-to: davek@informix.com's message of 22 Jan 93 18:00:29 GMT

In article <1993Jan22.180029.15463@informix.com> davek@informix.com (David Kosenko) writes:

   Again, you definitely need to watch more closely.  I was just watching
   some shows from a previous season that I had taped, and Norm did
   *EXACTLY* what you claim he doesn't.  He had a problem to solve (how to
   make a particular cut) and went through 4 or 5 alternate methods,
   giving his reasons why he thought they would not be very good.  He 
   finally settled on the tool he used because it lacked the flaws of the
   ones mentioned up to that point (sorry for the lack of details - I am
   on the road, and I watched the tape last week).

   If you really pay attention, you will probably find that the most
   commonly used "esoteric gimcrack" in Norm's repetoire is the common
   router!

I was much impressed with the plant stand he did last week. Especially the
part where he actually showed the viewer how to make the taper jig. Those
kind of hints are invaluable to me. I have my share of complaints, but
overall I get a lot out of the show.

--
Steve Anthony                     |  "Ain't nobody gettin' outta here |
Software Engineer              	  |   with out singin' the blues"     |
(617) 234-4000                    |                                   |
steveo@think.com                  |  - Albert "The Iceman" Collins    |
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: kroth@sunshine.Kodak.COM (David Kroth)
Subject: Forstner bit <-> electric drill
Organization: Eastman Kodak Co., Rochester, NY
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 93 14:09:59 GMT


Two days ago I asked about using Forstner bits in an electric
drill.

The overwhelming response was that yes, you can use a 1 3/8"
Forstner bit in a handheld electric drill.  In fact, I found
this out myself last night before I even read any of the
mail responses that were sent to me.

I was in Washington DC on Wednesday for the inauguration.
(I am not necessarilly a Clinton/Gore person so don't get
any ideas :-)  On Thursday I was driving home to Rochester
on Rt. 15 and passed right through Willimasport, PA, the east
coast home of Grizzly Imports.  I have been there before and
decided to stop in ang get a 1993 catalog.  While I was there
I purchased a 1 3/8" Forstner bit.  Took a look at that drill
press too.  Maybe I could spend $300 just to drill one hole...

Anyway, the bit worked fine in my B&D professional drill.
The smooth sided design of the Forstner bit guides the bit
straight into the wood.


thanks for the responses,
Dave Kroth
kroth@kodak.com
From: bellas@soldev.TTI.COM (Pete Bellas)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Hey! Lets have a survey....
Date: 26 Jan 93 21:03:37 GMT
Reply-To: bellas@soldev.TTI.COM (Pete Bellas)
Distribution: na
Organization: Transaction Technology, Inc.

In article <1993Jan23.024247.10643@cas.org>, jeb26@cas.org (;A/nG) writes:


> Project(-1):  waterbed

Are there any plans out there for Super Single water beds?  I want to make
a couple of units for my sons. What I have in mind is the daybed style, 
where the long side of the bed is against the wall, with a six drawer
pedestal and a modest (lengthwise) headboard. My real problem is knowing
how to design the load transfering portion of the frame when drawers are
involed. Thanks.

			-Pete-

Projects of the books:
Finished the sleigh with the bent lamination runners (came out great)
Finished the magnetic featherboards (70# magnets OK, 100# would be better)

New projects:
Stonecap mouldings
Waterbeds
Linen cabinets
Entertainment center (maybe)

* Pete Bellas                   "Cogito ergo spud"                         *
* Citicorp/TTI                       I think therefore I yam.              *
* Santa Monica, CA                                                         *
* bellas@gamma.tti.com                                                     *
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: weissborn@DFWVX1.DALLAS.GEOQUEST.SLB.COM
Subject: 9.6v/12v cordless drilss
Reply-To: weissborn@dfwdsr.sinet.slb.com
Organization: Schlumberger Data Services - Dallas
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 93 21:44:13 GMT

(Well the subject line proves they didn't hire me 
'cause I could spell 8-) )
This discussion on cordless 9.6 vs 12 is very timely for me
as I am looking at a REAL cordless.  I have been looking at
the Ryobi (9.6v) and the Dewalt 9.6.  I like the weight of
the Ryobi but it is so close to the Dewalt as to be 
negligible.  I was told the chuck on the Dewalt is better
but both seem to be the same to me.  The one thing I don't
like about the Dewalt is that in the screw-driver mode, you
have to press down to engage the chuck.  Looking at their
"see-thru" model, there are two little "hickeys" that catch,
one on the chuck shaft, the other on the drive-shaft.  Seems
like these would be prone to breakage.

Anyway, anyone have any opinions on either of these or maybe
even the Panasonic or Porter-cable(12v)?

Bill Weissborn
weissborn@dfwvx1.sinet.slb.com
From: timb@biosys.apldbio.COM (Tim Burcham)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Dovetail jigs
Summary: Which jig do you like?
Keywords: dovetail jigs
Date: 25 Jan 93 17:04:16 GMT
Expires: 28 Feb 93 08:00:00 GMT
Reply-To: timb@apldbio.com (Tim Burcham)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Applied Biosystems Inc, Foster City, CA

I'm considering buying a dovetail jig. I've got plans to do lots
of projects with drawers and don't really want to cut all those
dovetails by hand. So I'm considering laying down the $$ for a
dovetail jig.  Which dovetail jig should I buy? Note, since I 
normally cut dovetails by hand I really cannot stand the jigs
that produce dovetails that look "machine cut". Therefore it
seems like I have two choices:  the Leigh and the Porter Cable OmniJig.
Is the 12" Leigh large enough? It seems like you need a bunch of expensive
options with the OmniJig to do what the Leigh can do out of the box -- Is
this true? How about service? (Since all Leigh does is dovetail jigs I 
would expect their service to be better than Porter-Cable's.)

Tim Burcham
timb@apldbio.com

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: kaliher@skyler.mavd.honeywell.com
Subject: Re: Drafting software for the shop
Organization: Honeywell Systems & Research Center
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 15:31:51 GMT

> In article <1993Jan27.191125.1767@eagle.lerc.nasa.gov> 
> fszeman@typhoon.lerc.nasa.gov (Pat Zeman) writes:
>>Hi, 
>>  I'm looking for a general purpose drafting program for a 486 machine.
>>I wish to use it mainly for my woodworking projects.  Therefore, I
>>believe that drawing programs are to simple (no drafting tools) and
>>CAD programs are too big and expensive for simple shop use.  Some
>>software companies also misname their programs, using the title 
>>CAD, a buzz word.
responses included:
> 
> TurboCad - Good basic program, priced right, but it's from England, and is 
> designed for metric measurements, and uses a lot of English terms, i.e. 
> draughting, etc.. Not to degrade the English, but in my shop everything is 
> still measured in inches and feet.
> 
I have TurboCad.  The original and the update to V3.0 total under $100 (got
a good deal on the original).  It is much better with the upgrade - several 
windows at once, much friendlier to use.  It has several options as to 
dimension units, including feet/inches.  It has good scaling capabilities to 
facilitate putting drawings on standard paper sizes, if necessary.  It seems 
to me to be a great tool for home workshop support.  It also has good file 
export capabilities, if you need to move the files to another system to get 
plotter access.  It is usually available at Egghead, among other sources.
It is a product of a California firm, IMSI.
From: kassover@rumsey.crd.ge.com (David Kassover)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: NYW bashing; was 'HOMETIME'
Date: 22 Jan 93 23:05:57 GMT
Organization: nope

In article <51606@shamash.cdc.com> rlz@svl.cdc.com (Robert L Zalusky) writes:
>ddeutsch@bbn.com (Debra Deutsch) writes:
>
>>What is a tool girl?
>
>I didn't intend to be sexist just humorous and was making an
>offhand comparison to Home Improvement and all "those calendars".


My wife has informed me that she would disapprove of my attending
any Makita presentations, unless there was a Mr. to go with the
Miss.  I've thought about writing to Makita and telling them
about this sad state of affaires, but I haven't got around to it yet.


Some years ago, the lab I was working at received a calendar from
a pneumatic fitting company, with "those kinds" of pictures in
it.  One of the female persons in the labs took exception to it,
and wrote to the company.  She got a letter from the model in
question.  Seems this model is an engineer with this fitting
company, the possessor of two Ph.D.s (talk about doubledomedness
8-), and appears in the calendars because she enjoys the
modelling and the photography...

-- 
David Kassover             "Proper technique helps protect you against
uupsi!khazad!kassover	          sharp weapons and dull judges."
kassover@aule-tek.com                   F. Collins
kassover@ra.crd.ge.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: winegar@skyler.mavd.honeywell.com
Subject: Re: Hey! Lets have a survey....
Organization: Honeywell Systems & Research Center
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 19:23:04 GMT


I make and sell wooden puzzles of surprising difficulty.

By using special tricks on my bandsaw, I can make puzzles
that look trivial, yet are very tricky to get apart.
I even make a puzzle that never comes apart.

Keith Winegar
4539 Oakleaf Drive
Vadnais Heights, MN 55127
From: david@talgras.UUCP (David Hoopes)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bench-Dog Shapes
Keywords: bench, dog
Date: 24 Jan 93 18:24:06 GMT
Reply-To: david@talgras.UUCP (David Hoopes)
Organization: Tallgrass Technologies Inc.

In article <C19n78.9qM@medar.com> jseymour@medar.com (James Seymour) writes:
>
>What are the comparative advantages/disadvantages between
>square and round bench-dogs?  (Specifically, the bench-dog
>holes.)
>

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAArrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrgggg!!!!   Not this again.





-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------
David Hoopes                              Tallgrass Technologies Inc. 
david@tallgrass.COM                       11100 W 82nd St.          
Voice: (913) 492-6002 x323                Lenexa, Ks  66214        
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: eazcdr@unicorn.nott.ac.uk ()
Subject: Kiln dried wood - Irritants
Originator: eazcdr@unicorn
Organization: Cripps Computing Centre, University of Nottingham
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 93 13:34:57 GMT

I recently inherited a batch of kiln-dried Iroko from a cabinet making friend.
I spent a few hours sawing it into bowl blanks and then the trouble started
when I got it onto the lathe.
First of all the dust starts to fly and despite my Beekeepers get-up plus local
extraction it makes me cough so hard that my eyes almost popped.  Plus it makes
my skin itchy as hell for a couple of days.  Reckon its destined for the
firewood pile now.  I have heard that they sometimes use fungicides in the kiln
drying process - has anyone had any experience of problems like this is the
past or is Iroko just one of those nasty woods?  Most of my turning projects
have been from green or air dried stuff in the past and I've never run into
anything like this before.
From: tsf@Arizona.EDU (Ted Frohling)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Hey! Lets have a survey....
Date: 26 Jan 93 15:28:58 GMT
Reply-To: tsf@Arizona.EDU
Organization: University of Arizona, CCIT-Telecommunications
NNTP-Posting-Host: opus.telcom.arizona.edu

Well, I`m about 1/4 the way thru building the cabinetry for a new home.  Red Oak
with red oak plywood.   Using blum slides, and hinges.  Finishing with verathane.
Haven't decided on the counter top material yet, leaning towards formica or 
Wilson Art laminates.  Have about 75 lineal feet all together.


---
Ted Frohling                         tsf@arizona.edu
The University of Arizona            602.621.4834
University Telecommunications, Computer Center 131E
Tucson, AZ  85721
From: sgarcia@cisco.com (Steven Garcia)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Planer Questions
Date: 22 Jan 1993 18:52:08 GMT
Organization: cisco Systems, Incorporated
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: lager.cisco.com

In article <1jpeucINN9k2@cronkite.cisco.com>, sgarcia@cisco.com (Steven Garcia) writes:
|> 
|> I don't recall the exact minimum thickness of the Delta portable.
|> It is not, however, a problem.  I use a carrier board to increase
|> the effective thickness to something easily handled by the planer.
|> (Lay workpiece on top of a larger flat piece of wood and run both
|> through the planer together.)  I was worried at first about the safety
|> of such an operation, but a shop teacher is the one who demonstrated it
|> to me and says safety is not a problem with it.  I do make it habit to
|> stand to one side, however, and I try to use a carrier board that does
|> not have an extremely smooth face.
|> 
|> Steve Garcia
|>      <sgarcia@cisco.com>

I failed to point out that even with the carrier board, I've never tried
to go below about 3/16".  Sorry about that.

Steve Garcia
     (415) 688-7642)
     <sgarcia@cisco.com>
From: smedley@newton.ccs.tuns.ca (Prof. Trevor Smedley)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Books on Routers and Table Saws, and what to buy next?
Date: 26 Jan 93 18:33:54 GMT
Organization: Technical University of Nova Scotia, Halifax, N.S.

I am getting more involved in woodworking -- moving from home renovations
and building birdhouses to furniture construction.

Besides drills, sanders and the like, I have a 10" radial arm saw and a
2hp plunge router.  Can anyone recommend books I could buy about how to
use these most effectively?

Also, what should I buy next?  Unfortuantely a "real" table saw is out
because of space restrictions (I have a cheap Tiawanese bench top saw
already, but I don't think it is particularly appropriate for furniture
construction.)  I was thinking of a bandsaw or a jointer.  Suggestions?

Thanks, Trevor Smedley -- smedley@tuns.ca 
Technical University of Nova Scotia
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ell@linus.mitre.org (Edward L. Lafferty)
Subject: Re: Makers name-stamps
Organization: Research Computer Facility, The MITRE Corporation, Bedford MA
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 14:23:31 GMT

In article <1993Jan21.015429.19440@cc.uow.edu.au> pdunster@cc.uow.edu.au (peter dunster) writes:

   Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Path: linus.mitre.org!linus!think.com!ames!haven.umd.edu!uunet!munnari.oz.au!sol.deakin.OZ.AU!news.cs.uow.edu.au!cs.uow.edu.au!cc.uow.edu.au!pdunster
   From: pdunster@cc.uow.edu.au (peter dunster)
   Keywords: name-stamps
   Organization: University Of Wollongong
   Date: Thu, 21 Jan 93 01:54:29 GMT
   Lines: 21

   Due to the shortage of complex moulding planes here "down under" I have
   taken to making my own, after all, didn't all 18th century apprentices
   have to make their own tools?!   So far all has gone well and I am building
   up a set of planes modelled on their 18th and 19th century counterparts, with
   one small omission....no makers stamp!

   All Planemakers and Cabinetmakers of the last two centuries had a metal stamp
   with their name on it to stamp into the end-grain of the planes to show that
   they made and/or owned the tool. Today I cannot find anyone who could make
   such a thing (without paying $x00's)!

   So, he asks coyly, does anyone "up there" know of anyone who can make a
   rubber stamp out of metal, without charging like a wounded bull!

   Many thanks for reading my plea

   Cheers
   Pete

   pdunster@cc.uow.edu.au
Don't know what you think is $x00, but most of the catalog tool
suppliers have that item. Woodworker's Supply charges $33 or $ 49 for
their branding irons ($49 is electric). Two lines of type , you tell
'em what you want and wait 6 weeks. I'm pretty sure you can get better
prices. Check the ads in woodworking mags.


--
Regards,
Ed Lafferty

----------------------------------->>
External:                           Internal Mail addresses at MITRE: 
ell@mitre.org			ell@Ed   (Unix mail)



			        				                           
				                                      


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,misc.consumers.house