HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: golka@bnr.ca
Subject: Re: Comments on Delta 16" Band Saw  (28-560) please
Organization: Bell-Northern Research
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 18:54:25 GMT

In article <1992Dec7.181152.8054@mcnc.org> pusateri@mcnc.org (Thomas J.
Pusateri) writes:
>
>Woodworkers,
>
>I am in need of a bandsaw and have decided on the Delta 16" model #28-560.
>It has a 1/2 HP motor and takes 82" blades from 1/8-3/8".  I plan on 
>using this as a weekend woodworker.  I do build furniture such as 
>kitchen sets, bedroom sets, bureaus and entertainment centers.  I am trying
>to find out if there are any big differences from this one to the 
>open stand version (28-245).. That one also sports a 1/2 HP motor,
>blade lengths from 91 1/4-94"  but that price is $150 more than the 16".
>I know that the open stand model will take up to a 3/4" length blade.
>I know that I won't be resawing wood as its primary purpose so the 
>blade length doesn't really concern me.
>
>Does anybody have comments on this machine and its three wheel design compared
>to the traditional 2 wheel design.

I have a 16" three wheeler. My biggest beef is that you have to skew stock
about 10 
degrees when ripping, or resawing. This makes the fence useless, as the work
wanders off
the fence, or binds against it. It may be I haven't got the machine setup
right. If anyone
knows how to fix the, please post the secret.

Beef #2 is that when resawing thick stock, or cutting lathe blanks, the blade
bows 
in towards the left side of the saw. That is the blade at the middle of the cut
thickness
is about 1/4" to the left of the top and bottom guides. This gives a boards
with convex,
and matching concave cups to them. By the time you plane them flat, the
effective saw
kerf width is > 1/4"! Once again it may be a setup problem. If anyone knows ho
wto fix 
this PLEASE post a reply.

Thanks Bill Crick
From: ag900@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (David Burris)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Walker-Turner Jointer Blade Install
Date: 23 Dec 1992 00:42:16 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: ag900@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (David Burris)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc10.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz) says:

Stuff deleted...................

>>Question 2:
>>     I brought the jointer for $225.  The motor is in good working
>>     condition.  Was it a good deal?
>
>  Not bad.   An extremely cheap tiawan made jointer with rabbit arm, fence 
>  mounted on the end of the infeed table (inferior to center mount), aluminum
>  fence, single controls for angle and position (requiring you to re-set
>  the angle every time you move the fence), and cheap screws for angle
>  stops costs around $250 to $350.  (Trendlines, Vulcan, etc.)
>
>  The Ryobi JP55 6" router with noisey universal motor and no rabbeting
>  arm costs around $300.00 in the sale catalogs.
>
>  The cheapest 6" jointer with a center-mount fence I could find was the
>  Grizzley for $359, but I couldn't see it.  It is probably typical taiwan
>  construction.

Actually the Grizzly 6" jointer is one of the best deals going for the
home woodworker.The table is almost 48", making it ideal all kinds of
jointing. It goes for $345 on sale and mine has worked flawlessly for 2
years. As far as judging it as 'typical' Taiwan construction, sight
unseen, is ludicrous at best.

>  My Jet center-mount jointer was about $420.00.  It took me a day of filing
>  and adjusting to get it cutting right and working smootly, but it does 
>  real nice work now.

I shopped for a jointer for over a year before finally settling on the
Grizzly model. I looked at several Jet models. The JJ-4 was a little too
small for my needs and the JJ-6CS was a little to expensive at $579. The
JJ-6CS was almost identical to the Grizzly in quality with a much higher
price tag. The Grizzly was set up and working in a couple of hours.


Dave

-- 
ag900@cleveland.freenet.edu

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: chambles@whale.st.usm.edu (John William Chambless)
Subject: Sears bandsaw <<help>>
Originator: chambles@whale.st.usm.edu
Organization: University of Southern Mississippi
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 1992 05:46:58 GMT

I have a Sears 12" bandsaw ( a hand-me-down from my Dad ) that I'm
preparing to tune up for general shop use. I hope I can get it
working well enough to resaw some 4" oak that I have...

Has anybody had good luck using this saw for heavy resawing?
What about the controversial 1/4" bimetal blade?

Advice on bandsaws seems contradictory; everybody has their
special blade theory.

Also, I'd like to hear from anyone who has built the Gilliom
18" bandsaw kit, and from users of the Grizzly 18" bandsaw.

-- 
* Billy Chambless   University of Southern Mississippi, USA 
*   chambles@whale.st.usm.edu
*
From: tlp00@ras.amdahl.com (Tibor Polgar)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Safest way to use radial arm saw?
Date: 21 Dec 92 22:58:45 GMT
Reply-To: tlp00@ras.amdahl.com
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

In article 18237@adobe.com, bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds) writes:
>Scot Heath writes
>> ... how many
>> of you have had a dado or even a cross cut blade grab, spring the arm
>> upward and run across the top of the wood?  I have seen this happen and it
>> has happened to me.
>
>Freud makes both regular and dado blades that have "shoulders" after each
>tooth. These shoulders are set just a tad lower than the teeth. One of
>their purposes is to limit how fast wood can feed into the blade. If
>the wood feeds in too fast, the shoulder hits the wood. The shoulder is
>smooth and doesn't cut, so the wood can't feed in any more - until the
>next tooth comes by and lets it go a tiny bit more.
>
>Anyway, Freud claims this will help reduce the "climbing" you describe
>happening on your RAS.

Are you refering the "anti-kickback" design in the "shoulders"??? If so, then i
have to say that my Freud TK and Dado blades do reduce but in no way stops climbing.
The thicker/harder the wood the less i notice this feature.   Even with 2x4 fir, i've had the blade climb and lock.  Need to really running-back-straight-arm block that saw 
some times.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Tibor L. Polgar    |  (408) 746-8649     | tlp00@climb.ras.amdahl.com
| Amdahl Corporation
| 1250 East Arques Avenue (M/S 281)
| P.O. Box 3470
| Sunnyvale, CA 94088-3470
|
| The opinions expressed above are mine, solely, and do not in any way
| shape or form reflect the opinions or policies of Amdahl Corp.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: drawknife use
Date: 3 Jan 93 08:37:54 GMT
Organization: University of Arizona UNIX Users Group

A number of people comment "I've never used a drawknife, but..."

What?  Surely I'm not the only person on the net who spent a summer apprenticed
to a wheelwright using a drawknife to carve wagon wheel spokes out of
riven white oak?  You mean, I am????

A properly sharpened and tuned draw knife can split out 3/4 inch thick
chunks out of white oak, and then shave it down as smooth as you could
ever want.  But it takes a while to learn how to do that.

The drawknife has two sides, flat and bevel. The bevel eats wood, the
flat carresses and smooths it.  SLiding crosswise cuts ease the way through,
while straight  jam cuts are good for deep bites or some types of
rising grain.  You can learn to "wiggle the handles" to overcome some
grain problems, and to do sliding rising handle cuts for others.

I can't teach all of the ways to hold and use the knife.  If you want to
learn to use a draw knife, get some stock and start working on it.
Just remember that there are many many ways to cut the stock.. more than
just a straight cut.

You can hold the peice in a vice, or against a wooden bib with a depression
in the center. You simply put one end of the stock against a post, the other
in the hold in the bib, and lean into it.  This holds it much more secure than
a shaving hore, which is good for light work but not for making 2" x 4" x 24"
spokes.

Spoke shaves  are good, but not for removing a lot of stock.  But in the hands
of a beginner spokeshaves are much more reliable.  Just remember - always
cut "down" the grain, even with a spoke shave.

I'd suggest buying one of the stanley spokeshaves with adjusters on the blade.
Wooden ones are persnickity, and hard to adjust, assuming they aren't worn
out of adjustability.   A new stanley costs $20-odd.

As far as drawknives goes, the antiques can be much better tools, but unless
you know how to use one, you probably won't know what a good one is.
I have about a half dozen, from my biggest (4" wide blade 2' long) to a
baby that is about 1/4" wide and 2" long, and all except the baby are antiques.
From: Eric Kasten
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: coloured stains for kids blocks
Date: 23 Dec 92 17:26:03 GMT
Organization: Michigan State University
NNTP-Posting-Host: tigger.cl.msu.edu

>This is my first post.  I am a carver and this topic comes up frequently
>for me.  I know that there are paints that considered non-toxic, but when
>a child's life/health are at stake I will not take chances.  Maybe I am
>slightly paranoid about this but I feel its worth it.
>
>I didn't have any references on this subject the first time I colored a
>child's toy so I used personal experience.  Cranberry and blueberry juice 
>make brilliant colors, but there is a lot of bleeding (ie. You can't paint
>with them, only stain).  Food coloring also works but gets expensive quickly.
>
>I have ingested all of these so I have no qualms about letting my little one
>chew on it.  The only problems I have encountered are the extended drying 
>time and color-fastness...Any Suggestions?

Your concern is well understood, you might want to keep in mind that
certain sorts of wood themselves aren't real good for ingestion, 
however, it would probably take quite a bit of gnawing to get much
off a block of hardwood.  

As a suggestion (ie, I haven't tried this, so good luck), you might
try sealing the finished colored project with something like a
salad bowl finish (I sure hope they aren't making those toxic to
any real degree).  That sort of finish may help increase the 
colorfastness, although not the drying time.  Another thought you
might try is to actually take a salad bowl finish and color a
small quantity of it and then apply that to the project.  With any
luck it would then dry at about the same speed as the salad bowl
finish - I'm not sure you could maintain the briliancy of the
coloring agent applied directly to the wood however.  Anyway that's
my 2 cents.  Have fun, and good luck!
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ericb@microsoft.com (Eric Brown)
Subject: Re: lacquer
Date: 23 Dec 92 19:02:18 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp

porcelli@serum.kodak.com writes:
|I haven't been very happy with the look of any top coat finishes I've used.
|I saw a piece at a local cabinet shop that was finished with lacquer.  I
|liked the way it looked.  Does anybody out there have experience with
|lacquer?  I also saw an add in Woodworker's Supply of New Mexico for a
|water based lacquer.  Has anybody used this?  I have a Wagner Finecoat and
|have been spraying Hydrocote clear finish and polyurethene.  The finish is
|OK but it's not really what I'm looking for.
|
|As an aside.  I really like the Finecoat.  It's a great way to get into
|HVLP for a relatively inexpensive price.  My only complaint about it is
| hat the gun leaks around the cap sometimes.
|
|Thanks in advance for your responses.
|
|Rocco Porcellio
|Eastman Kodak Co.
|Rochester, NY

I have never used water based lacquer, but am also curious about it.  I
have a fair amount of experience with acetone based lacquer; it is
noxious stuff but flows and levels quite nicely when sprayed.  Its major
drawback is its softness and tendency to flake when hit.  It is, after all,
just a surface coating that does not really penetrate the wood.  I have
recently been experimenting with a synthetic tung oil/polyurethane blend
produced locally (Daly's "Pro Fin" here in Seattle).  It doesn't flow as
well (I have been wiping it on) but it seems much harder and more
durable.

Which brings me to a question for you.  If you don't mind my asking, how
expensive is the Wagner Finecoat?  Have you sprayed any lightbodied
finishes like stains or shellacs?  I'd ask if you have sprayed lacquers,
but gather you haven't.  I have a Wagner airless (model 300, I think),
which does an adequate job with heavy coatings like latex, but is too
course (orange peel) for fine finishing.  I am curious about HVLP spraying
for lacquer, oil, and stain, but the commercial rigs are quite pricey
(~$1K or more).



-- 
    Eric
               Microsoft Systems, Advanced Systems Development
            {sun, uw-beaver, apple, uunet, fluke}!microsoft!ericb 
                       internet: ericb@microsoft.com
From: howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Help for a NOVICE father to be.
Date: 30 Dec 1992 17:36:39 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division
NNTP-Posting-Host: hplsdum.col.hp.com

You didn't mention what sort of budget you have, or how much 
shopspace might be available.....

[Howard's wife Deb]
-- 
Howard Rebel hpcsos.col.hp.com 

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bds@mbunix.mitre.org (Smith)
Subject: Re: How to get a square edge
Organization: The MITRE Corporation, Bedford, MA
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 13:52:27 GMT

In article <1992Dec21.123736.9479@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com> carrd@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com writes:
>
>I've run into this problem alot when dealing with long pieces of wood
>(> 5') and thought I'd ask the wisdom of the net.  The problem I refer to
>is getting a true edge on a board when the deflection of the warp is 
>only about 1/2 - 1 inch over the entire length.  The bed on my jointer
>(Jet 6") is too short to detect the curve, thus all I end up with is a 
>curve on a smaller width board.  
>
>Anyone come up with a slick way around this problem?
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Dave
>

There's a very old way to handle this.  Get a long straight edge (I
bought a 4' straight edge for about $20 at a woodworking store--no,
it's not good enough for machinists, but it's plenty good enough for
jointing wood) and use it to lay out a straight line along the side of
the board.  Then use a hand plane and plane to the line.  It doesn't
have to be perfect--just good enough so your jointer could clean it
up.  Once you get reasonably good at it, you might not have to use
your jointer at all.

Barry
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: 3 phase question
Date: 1 Jan 93 08:02:53 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <lk75n2INN5sg@exodus.Eng.Sun.COM> coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM writes:
>There is something about this 3 phase stuff that I just haven't
>come to terms with......

>The thee phases are all 120 degrees out of phase. No problem.

>But now I want to run a 3 phase motor on a single phase. I fully
>understand how the the capacitor starts the 3rd leg to kick the 
>motor initially, but I don't understand how this thing works very 
>well at all, given that you are connecting two wires that are 180
>degrees out of phase, not 120.  Since the two wires you power the 
>convert with are 180, and you pass them straight through to the load,
>how do you get true 3 phase?

You don't.  You get two phases that are 180 degrees OOP, plus one that's
90 degrees OOP with the other two.  You're not doing much more than making
capacitor diddling uneccessary for the load motors.

Nobody said it was efficient...  You could get true three phase by
using one motor to mechanically drive a 3phase motor used as a generator.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: Mortise Chisels
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 00:50:09 GMT

Ken Moonitz writes
> In article <WOODWORK%92122111504757@IPFWVM.BITNET> "Lawrence E. Rondot"  
<RONDOT@IPFWVM.BITNET> writes:
> >I am looking for a 3/4" chisel to chop through mortises.  After looking
> >through the normal research guides (catalogs) I am seeing a patern that most
> >of the higher priced "mortise" chisels have squared sides and a leather
> >washer to act as a shock absorber....
> 
> Check out The Japan Woodworker 1800-537-7820.
> 
> Ask for a catalog.  They have a few different mortising chisels, I'm
> looking at one now... order # 14.303.18 San Mai Atsu Nomi Yoshitora
> 3/4" "white" steel tempered to Rockwell C65...  $44.85  Intended for
> deep mortising in large work.

Note that the technique used for chopping mortises with Japanese chisels
is significantly different than that used with Western chisels. In
particular, the Japanese chisels are harder and therefore more brittle,
so that you shouldn't use them to pry chips off the bottom. I believe
that there's a secondary tool used to pry and clean up the bottom of
mortises when using Japanese chisels.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-Vmsmail-To: SMTP%"WOODWORK%IPFWVM.BITNET@pucc.Princeton.EDU"
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 22 Dec 1992 08:42:56 -0700
From:         BOULAN@TECHNET.NM.ORG
Subject:      Re: Louvered shutters

In fact  it just might be easier to make them moveable. I have 4 in wide
 moveable
shutters in my house. I had them made by a company in Scottsdale and installed
 them
myself. The shutters came with pivot pins as replacement parts should one of the
 louvers
break out. I had never seen them sold commercially until the last Woodworkers
Supply catalog came out and there they were. Check it out and if you want me to
 do a measured drawing of the shutters I have at home let me know.
From: tonyb@juliet.ll.mit.edu ( Tony Berke )
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How to fill holes for new lockset?
Date: 21 Dec 92 21:40:00 GMT
Article-I.D.: ursula.TONYB.92Dec21164000
Organization: M.I.T. Lincoln Lab - Group 43

The best thing I've seen lately for structural repair of wood is
this stuff called Wood-Epox.  I don't quite remember who makes it
or how to order it (I've borrowed it from a friend on a couple of
occasions), but it seems to be sold through the mail, and is advertised
in FWW.

They have a couple of different products, but the filler is use is a
two-part mixture, with the stuff about the same weight (but not
temperature) as ice-cream.  It smells like almonds, and hardens
without shrinking into a material that sands, drills, routes, etc,
quite nicely.  I've used it for the exact same application that you
described (filling old door mortises), and it worked rather nicely.
It's expensive, though.

Have fun, and get in touch if you can't find it -- I'll look at the
can and get the company name and address.


Tony
From: coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM (Chip Coffin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: 3 phase question
Date: 1 Jan 1993 00:57:06 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Distribution: world
Reply-To: coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: surfin

There is something about this 3 phase stuff that I just haven't
come to terms with......

The thee phases are all 120 degrees out of phase. No problem.

But now I want to run a 3 phase motor on a single phase. I fully
understand how the the capacitor starts the 3rd leg to kick the 
motor initially, but I don't understand how this thing works very 
well at all, given that you are connecting two wires that are 180
degrees out of phase, not 120.  Since the two wires you power the 
convert with are 180, and you pass them straight through to the load,
how do you get true 3 phase?

Seriously Confused, but not hopless...

chip

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: pcm@ssd.intel.com (Phil Miller)
Subject: Re: Safest way to use radial arm saw?
Reply-To: pcm@ssd.intel.com (Phil Miller)
Organization: Intel Supercomputer Systems Division, Beaverton, Oregon, USA
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 00:37:53 GMT

In article <1992Dec21.131907.5565@acheron.uucp>, clarke@acheron (Ed Clarke/10240000) writes:
| From article <Treble-181292095032@asc438.asc.slb.com>, by Treble@asc.slb.com (John Treble):

JT> I also have one of those wobbling dado heads, and consider it to be the
JT> most vicious tool I've ever seen!  How do you put the guard on that beast?

EC> I don't think that you CAN put a guard on a wobble dado on a Sears saw.
EC> You have to run guardless.

If you are talking about the type of dado blade whose "wobble-path" is set at
the time you mount the blade on the arbor shaft, and whose cut-width is
adjusted by twisting the center with respect to the blade, I believe you are
mistaken.  I have a Sears RAS, a Sears wobble dado, and regularly use the
wobble dado -- with the original equipment blade guard which came with the RAS.

Phil Miller
pcm@ssd.intel.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ameres@ithaca.cat.rpi.edu (Eric Ameres)
Subject: Re: What is the diff between an tilt arbor and table saw?
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 17:18:37 GMT

In article <1992Dec23.164038.13923@crd.ge.com> kassover@rumsey.crd.ge.com (David Kassover) writes:
>In article <1992Dec23.074428.6136@netcom.com> micki@netcom.com (Michelle Stone) writes:
>>
>>But now... what is a tilting arbor saw?
>
>In order to make bevel cuts, one must arrange that the blade be
>at some other angle than 90 degrees to the table.  Most of the
>time, the blade (which is held on the shaft by the arbor) is
>tilted (which may involve tilting the motor, as well).  But
>occasionally, one will find a tilting table saw, in which the
>arbor is stationary, but the table tilts.
>
>-- 
>David Kassover             "Proper technique helps protect you against

Don't most tablesaws (I'd assume the Delta Contractor's adn the like)
allow you to tilt the blade to make bevel cuts?  If so then what's the
difference between a tilt arbor and these normal tablesaws.  If not
then I've made a heck of an assumption regarding most table saws and
am glad someone asked.

I am guessing here, but might it be that a tilt-arbor saw tilts the
arbor and not the motor (implying that a tilt arbor saw must also be
belt (or otherwise indirectly) driven ) or is this mechanically
impossible?  

From this assumption, I would further theorize that normal tablesaws
would therefore tilt the arbor and the motor as a unit.  

OK anyone care to relate this into some commonly acceptable examples:
Is the saw arbor of the Delta Contractor's directly attached to the
motor?  What about the Delta Cabinet Saw? I have seen posts regarding
the unisaw which must be belt driven.  Which of these qualify as
tilting arbor saws?  Does the Unisaw qualify as a cabinet saw?

Eric.

-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Eric Ameres,  Software Engineer                 ameres@cat.rpi.edu
New York State Center for Advanced Technology in Automation & Robotics
Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute - CII 8313, Troy, NY 12180-3590
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: millios@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (william.l.millios)
Subject: Re: Mantelpiece - Me Too!
Organization: AT&T
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 16:08:04 GMT

To the (at least) two guys looking for plans for mantels for their
fireplaces.

Check out the book "Craftsman Style Homes" - it's kinda thin, and
is a bit pricey, but the pictures make it worthwhile.  There are 
several mantels in there, pictures of molding detail, and things
of that sort that really impressed me - and which I plan on using
in my (someday) home.  Construction details and cross sectional
views are also included for the interesting things.

Bill