HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Cameras with lockup, etc.
From: jacobs@cerritos.edu
Date: 9 Apr 92 18:45:58 PDT
Organization: Cerritos College, Norwalk CA

In article <1992Apr8.201518.12141@linus.mitre.org>, chaloux@mandolin.mitre.org (Dave Chaloux) writes:
> I have been getting into Astrophotography lately and have been using a
> Pentax K1000 for same. I have thought about replacing this camera and getting
> something that:
> 1) I can use for Astrophotography.
> 2) I can use for Auto Everything.
> 
> When I went to the store and started looking at cameras I noticed the
> following.
> 
> 1) Many of the cameras do not have cable release.
> 2) Many of the cameras drain the batteries even in Bulb mode or T mode or
> whatever the manufacturer likes to call it.
> 3) As far as I can tell, many still do not have mirror lock up which is
> part of the incentive to use something other than my K1000 for
> Astrophotography. Brighter focusing screens are another.
> 
> Can anybody recommend a good autoeverything camera that still has
> cable release and mirror lockup and that preferably doesn't drain the
> batteries and short of that takes NICADS.
> 
> Looking at the 8008 it looked like it had some sort of remote unit that
> might serve the function of a cable release. Is that correct? Looking at
> the instruction book, I could neither verify or reject that. Also, does
> it have mirror lock-up? I saw nothing about it in the book.

	 As far as the 8008 goes, forget astral photography, the battery will
drain itself, and there is no mirror lockup on it.

	You don't need a mirror lockup to do astral photography, all you need
is a camera with a full manual mode that excepts a cable release.

	As far as finding a camera that is fully auto and doesn't drain the
battery, forget it, Even the lofty F4 (of which I own two) will still give you
problems. My recommendation is to get an 8008 for all your auto stuff and get a
used FM2n to shoot to stars with (and put a bright screen in the FM2). Going
with two cameras is your best option, anything else would be a great
compromise.

Karl
From: schmidt@cathedral.cerc.wvu.wvnet.edu (Evan Schmidt)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Nematodes
Date: 8 Apr 92 19:26:10 GMT

Hello,
	I was wondering if anybody can clear something up for me.  I have a friend who claims that nematodes prevent cutworms from invading your garden.  I have another friend that claims that nematodes attack tomatoe plants with ill effects for the tomatoes.  What is the low down on nematodes?  If they are good, where can I find some?  Thanks.

Evan Schmidt
Beginning Gardener
schmidt@cerc.wvu.wvnet.edu
From: hesed@shekinah.Eng.Sun.COM (Michael Brumm)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Where can I get a Clematis?
Keywords: Clematis
Date: 7 Apr 92 22:55:39 GMT
Reply-To: hesed@shekinah.Eng.Sun.COM
Distribution: ba
Organization: Sun Microsystems
NNTP-Posting-Host: shekinah

Is anyone aware of a good source for Clematis(es?)?  The nurseries around the area
have been telling me the growers aren't growing them anymore.  Anyone know why?  I've
only been able to find some poor-quality staked plants.  I'd like a smaller vine to
train up a fence/trellis.

A friend of mine has a beautiful vine... is the Clematis a good candidate for 
propigation from cuttings, or do they have to be layered?

Thanks!  -Mike
From: locsin@mwk.uucp
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: ants in compost heap
Date: 13 Apr 92 13:22:34 CST
Organization: M. W. Kellogg, Houston TX

I saw someone post a similar problem to this newsgroup before but never
got to see a response. Anyway I would appreciate any help or advice on 
how to get rid of ants in a compost heap. I don't want to use chemicals
because this compost is meant for a vegetable garden - as a matter of fact 
it's sitting on a corner of the vegetable plot. The ants ( like most ants
here in Houston ) are fire ants. This means that I really don't have the option
of leaving them alone since I would like to encourage my children to
take an active part in tending the garden.

Also, once I get rid of these ants how do I discourage them from building
their nests among my vegetables.

Thanks in advance

Ria Locsin
From: jan@bagend.uucp (Jan Isley)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: garlic help
Date: 6 Apr 92 20:23:25 GMT
Organization: 1 Bagshot Row, the Shire

dadams@cherry.cray.com (David Adams) writes:
>
>Recently at the garden supply store I picked up some garlic bulbs.
>After I got home I read the instructions which said that they should
>be planted in the fall.  "Goodness!", I thought, "Why are they selling
>them in the spring?"  Then later at another store I noticed that 

because people will buy them.

>the instructions said that they could be planted in the fall or
>in the spring.  Can I go ahead and plant them?  Do I need to
>wait until all danger of frost is past?  After all if I could
>have put them in last fall, there must not have been a whole 
>lot of worry about frost.

My SO and I tried every method ever suggested to grow garlic,
including the plant it in spring ones, with no success.  What
works for us is the old-wives-tale plant it on the shortest day
of the year and harvest it on the longest day of the year.  After
ten years of bad, molded, dead, etc garlic planted every way but
this and five years of beautiful, big, tasty garlic since adopting
this method, well you decide.  Your milage may vary.

>Can I plant garlic from the grocery store?  It cost a lot less.

yes.

>Can I bring home Elephant garlic from the store and plant it in my
>garden?

yes.

>Did you know that most americans eat over a ton of dirt every day?

say what?
-- 
Do not suffer the company of fools  ||  Jan Isley gatech.edu!bagend!jan
  Siddhartha Gautama, the Buddha    ||  jan@bagend.uucp (404)434-1335
From: chuq@Apple.COM (Chuq Von Rospach)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Garden sprayers, whitefly
Keywords: whitefly, ash trees, spray
Date: 8 Apr 92 21:45:23 GMT
Organization: I is a writur

wdl@berlioz.nsc.com (Bill Llewellyn) writes:
>Any recommendations? Or does anyone know of
>another way to keep these little buggers down? Thanks!

Much as I hate to say it, I wouldn't bother. The reports I've seen indicate
that (1) spraying, safer's, ivory or whatever, might wash the dirt off the
whitefly but does almost nothing else, and (2) spraying IS more likely to
kill off the beneficial insects like the parasitic wasps that might be
trying to eat the whitefly. So spraying can very well make it worse.

There's currently no control for the damn things. Using a garden hose once a
week to spray the tree and trying to drown the little buggers is about as
effective as anything and a lot cheaper than trying to bubble-bath them to
death, plus it won't kill off the good bugs. There is a lot of research
going into controls, but so far, the whiteflies are winning.

-- 
            Chuq "IMHO" Von Rospach, Enterprise Products Support
            chuq@apple.com | GEnie:CHUQ & MAC.BIGOT | ALink:CHUQ
               Book Reviewer, Amazing Stories =+= Member, SFWA
           Editor, OtherRealms =+= #include <standard/disclaimer.h>

And lo, though I travel through the valley of the archetypes, I shall fear
no evil, for I know that the author can't kill me off for at least another
150 pages, no matter how stupid or trite I become, or he ruins the book.
From: machanicm@gtephx.UUCP (Mindy Machanic)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Spruce aphids
Date: 14 Apr 92 21:25:45 GMT
Organization: AG Communication Systems, Phoenix, Arizona

In article <1992Apr14.011816.18441@unixg.ubc.ca>, wade@ucs.ubc.ca (Doug Wade) writes:
> Just found out why my Colorado Blue Spruce and Alberta Spruce are turning
> brown.... Spruce Tree Aphid!!
> Yesterday I sprayed the trees with a soap solution recommended for killing
> Aphids. Today I noticed the trees were covered in spiders and lady bugs 
> which got me to wondering if the soap solution kills only aphids or am I
> killing the good insects as well? 

Maybe the spiders and lady bugs just got hungry and found the aphids about the
same time as you sprayed! Were they dead spiders and lady bugs, or were they
just hanging out?

-- 
*****************************************************************************************
Mindy Machanic  (AG Communication Systems/Quality Engineering, Phoenix, AZ)               
UUCP: ....!{ncar!noao!asuvax | att}!gtephx!machanicm      
Internet: gtephx!machanicm@asuvax.eas.asu.edu
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: propagation of Staghorn Ferns
Date: 9 Apr 92 17:29:04 -0500
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

ramsey@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Brenda Ramsey) writes:
> Several years ago a friend have me a couple pieces of her
> huge staghorn fern.  I filled a wire basket with sphagnum
> moss and a little dirt and then poked the pieces of
> staghorn through some of the hole.  My ferns now span about
> 4 feet across and have totally engulfed the wire basket.
> 
> Question:  I cannot remember how she extracted pieces of the
> fern for me.  I keep looking for areas where I might pick
> pieces off but can seem to locate anything.  I would like
> to add a few more to my back yard; they are low mtce and
> nice to look at.  Every month or so, I throw a banana peel
> in the top of the basket.

You need to get a portion of the plant with both the "staghorn"
frond" and the basal, "cabbage leaf" frond, and a chunk of the 
root.  You may have to dismantle your basket to get it.

Have fun.  The last one I divided took me a couple of hours
with an ax...

Kay Klier  Biology Dept  UNI
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: vmb@media.mit.edu (V. Michael Bove Jr.)
Subject: Re: Mosquito Plant
Organization: MIT Media Laboratory
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1992 14:01:11 GMT

In article <1992Apr16.122640.13091@cbnewsj.cb.att.com>, lorij@cbnewsj.cb.att.com (lori.j.andrews) writes:
> 
> 
> Hi,
>   I have a question for the net.  I have seen advertisements for a plant called
> the mosquito plant.  The advertisement states that it is a chemical free way to
> rid your area of mosquitoes.  My question is has anyone heard of this and what
> are the pros and cons of this plant.  I have seen the advertisement from 
> Michigan Blub Co. and my Flower of the Month selection.  This is why I question
> the reliability of the ad.  The ad states that the plant is from the geranium
> family.
> Has anyone heard of this and what would the real name of the plant be?
> Thanks in advance.

I too have seen the ads, and it appears to be some form of Pelargonium
(scented geranium). Note that this is the same Michigan Bulb Co. that was
marketing wildly overpriced Pelargoniums a few years ago as Odor
Destroyer Plants (TM). Heh.

I expect that going to your local pharmacy and buying a small bottle
of oil of Citronella would be a much more effective (and probably
cheaper) solution to your mosquito situation.
From: esh2@po.CWRU.Edu (Evelyn S. Hlabse)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Breck's
Date: 13 Apr 92 20:50:25 GMT
Article-I.D.: usenet.1992Apr13.205025.17678
Reply-To: esh2@po.CWRU.Edu (Evelyn S. Hlabse)
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)

I have ordered from Breck's many times.  The bulbs are well packed and
quite large.  I have never had any not come up and I've been ordering
from them for several years.  They do arrive a little early for
immediate planting in northern Ohio but they do produce beautiful
flowers.  I've never had a problem so I have no idea how they respond
to complaints.  The plants really do look like the pictures when they
come up.  As an aside, at the Cleveland Home and Garden show there was
a beautiful garden containing nothing but flowers grown from Beck bulbs
that won first prize.  It was like a huge Easter basket.
--
From: derrick@meaddata.com (Derrick Tatem)
Subject: Dandelions
Organization: Mead Data Central, Dayton OH
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 14:57:53 GMT
Distribution: usa

This is my first time posting to this group. Being a home owner, every spring
I tend to have the same problem, DANDELIONS! This past weekend, It took me
about 2hrs to dig them up from my backyard. This deed is a real pain.
I've used some type of lawn spread product(I can't remember the product name
at this time) but guess what, those damn-delions seem to survive. Has anyone
had this type of problem? And if you did, what's the best lawn product you've
used and had success with? Is there some type of lawn and gardening product I
can use which is real good in getting rid of those damn-delions, and since we
are concerned about the environment, environmental safe? Thanks in advance
for any suggestions.

-- 
Derrick M. Tatem
Mead Data Central, Dayton, Ohio
Internet: derrick@meaddata.com
UUCP:     !uunet!meaddata!derrick
From: falcao@felix.metaphor.com (Ronnie Falcao)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Natural Insect/Snail Control?
Date: 16 Apr 92 18:20:12 GMT
Organization: Metaphor Computer Systems, Mountain View, CA

In article <sq0ikjs@Unify.Com> ceb@dbrus.Unify.Com (Caroline E. Bryan) writes:

>[In response to problems with snails (and other bugs?)]

>Try introducing a box turtle to the garden.  It works in the Sacramento,
>CA area!

OK, now this sounds like fun.  Can a box turtle live
a happy, productive life on the flats of the SF Peninsula?
Would it be bothered by cats?  How would I care for it?
Where could I get one?

Just to make sure, the turtle was recommended as a snail
control, yes?

Thanks for any additional information,
Ronnie

Ronnie Falcao, Metaphor Computer Systems, Mountain View, CA
falcao@metaphor.com
From: Ecology Center Fund <ecologycntr@igc.org>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Date: 06 Apr 92 09:14 PDT
Subject: Re: Re: Gypsum, Sulfur, pH, and cla
Nf-ID: #R:hpdmd48.boi.hp.com:2800058:cdp:1453300020:000:1258
Nf-From: cdp.UUCP!ecologycntr    Apr  6 09:14:00 1992


Doug;
 
Gypsum's lack of effect on soil pH is due to the fact that it
provides sulfur and calcium ions in equivalent amounts, as you
conjecture.  Though the calcium is indeed "used up" in displacing
sodium from the soil, it does not go away, but remains bonded to
the surface of soil particles, allowing it to continue to raise
soil pH just as much as the sulfur lowers it.  
 
I have a hunch that sodium in western soils is not so much a "soil"
problem as it is a "water" problem, as western water tends to have
many more dissolved solids than in other parts of the continent. 
 
As for the fact that nursery people don't know what they are
talikng about:  when i first landed a job in a nursery, i was told
by the manager of the bedding plants department that "if you're not
familiar with a plant, just tell the customer it gets from a foot
to three feet tall, and blooms between April and August, most of
the time."  I've made a hell of a lot of money correcting problems
caused by advice given at nurseries.  At the Ecology Center i
periodically teach a gardening class called "How to garden without
spending money" in which the chief lesson is to listen to the
subtext in the nurseryperson's advice, and find out what they've
got overstocked.
 
chris
 

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: sharen@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com (Sharen A. Rund)
Subject: Re: Natural Insect/Snail Control?
Organization: Lockheed Missiles and Space Co.
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 92 17:28:15 GMT

In article <1992Apr14.174734.7135@decwrl.dec.com> shedevil@vix.com (Anne P. Mitchell) writes:
>I'll just bet this is an FAQ, so please forgive me and point me in the
>direction of an FAQ file if there is one!
>
>Something started eating our Pansies <big bites out of their cute lil
>faces :-(>, and our landlord informed us that we have quite a bad
>snail problem around here...pluse we've SEEN oodles of bugs.  He
>suggested various insecticides and snail baits..which we duly bought
>last night, but my animal-rights conscious daughter is really upset at
>the thought of killing the snails (as, I must admit, am I), so we
>decided to see if there wasn't some natural means of repelling
>them..she thought she'd remembered reading that red pepper might work.
>
>This isn't a good place for companion planting (at least I don't think
>it is) as it's a big flower box.
>

I don't know of any way of repelling them - most are for elimination -
a pie pan with beer, they'll go into it to drink up the malt and drown -
salt, when they go over it they'll use up all their juices to expunge it
amonia spray, similar to salt but it won't hurt the plants
snail pellets
-- 
________________       __        ________________   "They that can give up
\_________      \     /_ \      /      _________/  essential liberty to 
 \_________      \_____/  \____/      _________/  obtain temporary safety
  \___________________      __________________/  deserve neither liberty 
                     /______\                   nor safety."  
ALL disclaimers apply ....                           --Benjamin Franklin
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: illegal plants--lobelia
Date: 7 Apr 92 20:50:33 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

dadams@cherry.cray.com (David Adams) writes:
> 
> Two days ago I heard that lobelia (Indian tobacco,
> pukeweed) was illegal, or at least that it could
> not be sold as an herb.  

Dunno about the legality, but never credit a legislative body with 
having any sense about any matter biological...

> Does anyone know 
> anything more about it?  Do any catalogs
> sell seeds for it?  I know a lot of herby people
> swear by it as a cure for asthma, coughs etc.  
> The "Readers Digest Book of Herbs" indicated that 
> pharmapsudical (sp?) companies obtain lobeline, used 
  pharmaceutical
> in cough medicines, from lobelia.
I haven't seen lobeline in OTC medications in years.  Too toxic.

> 
> Does anyone know why it might be illegal?  How 
> poisionous is the stuff?  Is it really worse than 
> alot of other weeds like nightshade?  Is nightshade 
> illegal?  I found jimsonweed growing by my garage when 
> I moved in.  That is supposed to be pretty poisionous. 

Well, I wouldn't recommend munching any of these.  Lobeline and
related alkaloids from the various lobelia species have actions 
similar to nicotine (dilates bronchioles in low dosages, but at slightly
higher, depresses respiration and drops blood pressure drastically --
not the drug of choice for asthma!).  These are CNS (central nervous
system) excitants and first, then depressants.  As little as 50 mg of
dried lobelia inflata has caused clinical poisoning (an aspirin weighs
325 mg), as has 1 ml (20 drops) of tincture of lobelia.
Symptoms include nausea and uncontrollable vomiting (another common name
for the plant is pukeweed), tremors, paralysis, convulsions, and death.

Black nightshade might be on the primary or secondary noxious weed list
in MN.  But no one will arrest you for it.

Jimsonweed (Datura stramonium) is hallucinogenic and quite poisonous.  It
contains atropine, hyoscyamine, hyoscine and scopolamine.  These affect
neurotransmitters, screwing up heart, brain, and respiratory functions,
also involuntary muscles and exocrine glands.  Some people also get
skin rashes from touching the plant.  Give this one a wide berth, too.
Especially if you've got kids.

BTW, a few years ago, the Tennessee legislature wanted to ban jimsonweed,
but wrote Gentiana lutea into the ban.  That species is native to the
Pyranees -- and is the "bitter" in bitters, and was used as one of the
prime ingredients in Moxie, a soft drink once popular in the South.
Oh well, nice try, guys...  The plants are only a few thousand miles 
and a couple of orders apart...

Kay Klier  Biology Dept  UNI



 
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: penchos@infonode.ingr.com (John A. Penchosky)
Subject: Indoor Tomatoes
Organization: Intergraph Corporation, Huntsville, AL.
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 17:03:41 GMT

I am growing Sweet 100 Cherry Tomatoes indoors, under a 250 watt High
pressure sodium light. The plants look healthy, and are about three
feet tall. They have around 60-75 tomatoes on each of the two plants.
The tomatoes are almost the size of golf balls. The problem is that
they are not turning red. They have all grown to an exeptional size
for cherry's but don't ripen. The plants began to produce about a month
ago, so I feel like it has been plenty of time. My light was set to be
on for 16 hrs. a day but I cut it back to 13 hrs. a week ago to see if
this would make a difference. No luck. Are there any suggestions on what
I might be doing wrong? By the way, the tempature runs around 75 degrees
and the plants do not get any exess light during the dark period. Thanks
for any help.

-- 
*******************************************************************************    John Penchosky     INTERGRAPH CORP.
    205-730-6313      HUNTSVILLE, ALABAMA 35894  penchos@infonode.ingr.com
*******************************************************************************

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: lorij@cbnewsj.cb.att.com (lori.j.andrews)
Subject: Mosquito Plant
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1992 12:26:40 GMT



Hi,
  I have a question for the net.  I have seen advertisements for a plant called
the mosquito plant.  The advertisement states that it is a chemical free way to
rid your area of mosquitoes.  My question is has anyone heard of this and what
are the pros and cons of this plant.  I have seen the advertisement from 
Michigan Blub Co. and my Flower of the Month selection.  This is why I question
the reliability of the ad.  The ad states that the plant is from the geranium
family.
Has anyone heard of this and what would the real name of the plant be?
Thanks in advance.
Lori Daniels
Organization: The American University - University Computing Center
Date: Thursday, 9 Apr 1992 12:26:57 EDT
From: Michael Carr <MCARR@auvm.american.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Garden sprayers, whitefly

I have found that the best way to kill whiteflies is with the Ortho Sticky
Whitefly trap. Within ten minutes of setting up the trap, you will have
killed at least four and in one day about 30. After a week or two, you will
have no problems with them at all.

The trap is made of cardboard painted yellow with a sticky substance.
Whiteflies are attracted yellow and the sticky substance keeps them on the
cardboard. It works 1,000 times better than the leading spray.

Mike Carr
The American University
Washington, D.C.

Long Live Pirate Radio!!!!! Freedom of the Airwaves
From: kevin@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu (Kevin Harris)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: FAQ: 10 COMMANDMENTS OF LAWNMOWERS
Date: 13 Apr 92 14:56:43 GMT
Reply-To: kevin@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu (Kevin Harris)
Organization: Columbia University


pharvey@mipos3.intel.com (Paul Harvey) commands:

[damned humorous several Commandments regarding lawn care and equipment
deleted...]

Jobe_Plant_Food_Spikes 10:1

"Oh great and mighty One of the Roto-Tiller, we, the Philistines of 
The East beseech thee that we may dwell for the rest of our days
in a house of Condominiums wherein we may invest our entire horticultural
devotion in the Ghodess of Potted Plants and rooftop Gardens."


kevin "lawnmower-not-man" harris
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: jwagner@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Judith O Wagner)
Subject: Re: I think I killed my boxwoods : -(
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1992 16:43:06 GMT

What I meant/tried to say--most nurseries guarantee their stock.
Since you planted them according to their instructions, try for
a refund or new stock and ask what happened.
Good luck!


Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: Judith Moore <judith@mermaid.larc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Premature flowering
Keywords: vegetable
Organization: NASA Langley Research Center
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1992 13:21:11 GMT

I've started a number of plants from seed this year, and the
little beasts are starting to bloom.  I transplanted most into
peat or plastic pots after they sprouted, and now, while they
are still very small, my tomatoes, peppers, and tomatillos have
buds on them.  What should I do now, and how can I prevent this
premature flowering in the future?

Judith Moore
judith@mermaid.larc.nasa.gov 
Newsgroups: rec.gardens