HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: guy@ns.network.com (Guy D'Andrea)
Subject: CREDIT REPORTS:  They don't know the diff. between Jr. and Sr.?
Organization: Network Systems Corporation
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 93 14:33:45 GMT

This has happened to me before; 7 years ago when I applied for a mortgage on 
the home we are in now...  The local place that handles our credit ratings in
the Twin Cities of Minnesota does NOT make allowances for the difference 
between a Jr. and Sr.!  I am fortunate that my dad (Sr.) has good credit since
our stuff gets mixed together - on purpose!  I asked the mortgage co. that I am
working with now to make sure my name on the credit application had "Jr." on the
end and the person told me that it didn't make a difference because there isn't
any spot for it?!  She put it on at my insistance but sure enough when I
received my copy, all my past credit was mixed with my dad's.  we "both" have
good credit but it is still a bit annoying.

Has anyone had this problem in their state?  IS there a way to fix this???

-Guy

 guy@nsco.network.com, Guy Dandrea, Network Systems Corp., Mpls. MN 55428,  USA 
                        1-800-328-9108  Fax:(612)424-1736 
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: mje@pookie.pass.wayne.edu (Michael J. Edelman)
Subject: Re: When does it make sense to reduce the
Reply-To: mje@pookie.pass.wayne.edu
Organization: Wayne State University
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 19:19:58 GMT

In article M9z@vcd.hp.com, johne@PROBLEM_WITH_INEWS_GATEWAY_FILE (John Eaton) writes:
>In article 2Ir@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu, prange@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Henry Prange) writes:
>: >I have been advised on more than one occasion to stay mortgaged to the limit
>: >I can afford. The agrument being: pay off the principle in "cheap" dollars
>: >i.e., deflated value per dollar due to inflation, later rather than to use
>: >your expensive dollars now. The principle will only become relatively cheaper
>: >with time and the deduction for the interest is a bigger benefit. 
>:------------
>That stategy worked great in the 70's and 80's. The reason it worked is because
>we had high inflation and high taxes. Guess what? The rules have changed!!!
>The goverment is no longer kicking in 50-60% of your interest cost. Your house
>is no longer inflation at 10%. Take that money out of your 3% Money Market and
>pay down that 8.5% loan. You will be better off.
>
>Some people still haven't a clue that the game has completely changed. Tax
>deductions are out. In many cases you are better off taking the standard
>deduction. Change with the times or go the way of the dinosaur.
>
>John Eaton
>!hp-vcd!johne
>
> 

Not quite.

Those who had low 4 and 5% mortgages they bought in the 50s and 60s profitied from 
the Carter era high inflation rates. In other words, your parents are the ones who
*really* looted the S&Ls ;-) But those who bought mortgages when interest rates 
were pushing 20% did poorly because of the tilt. The intial high payments made it
more expensive and pushed them into longer contracts and smaller houses. 

When is it a good idea to mortgage to the hilt?

1. When you expect interest rates to go up. Like, now.

2. When you can shelter a major part of your income from taxes. 

That includes most of us. Rememeber that the one-time deduction lets you
shelter 100% of the capital gains on a house from taxes. Assuming you 
keep rolling over your house investment, you can get a very good return.
My neighborhood seems to be appreciating about 10% a year, at least according
to the tax asessors. That's a 10% tax-free investment. A long-term mortgage
means that I can use the balance to invest elsewhere, or that I can buy the 
most house for the least money. It's like buying stock on margin.
 
If, however, you're buying a house you expect to go down in value, that's
another story ;^)

As to the standard deduction: Why is this such a difficult question? Figure
your tax both ways, and use the lower estimate. If you own a house, though, I can't
imagine the standard deduction being a better deal.

         --mike
From: laird@thistle.ecn.purdue.edu (Kyler Laird)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: X10 Reliability
Keywords: Heathkit motion detector flood lights
Date: 12 Jan 93 19:18:40 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network

This sounds like a couple letters in the current Electronic Home(/House?).

It's making me think (yet again) about dedicated wiring.

--kyler

p.s.  They do offer some tips, but it still seems unreliable.  I use X-10
and have some problems, and I'm in a small apartment.
From: iturn@luna.dpl.scg.hac.com (Indra Turn)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Bugs in my house
Date: 7 Jan 93 01:10:37 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Hughes Aircraft Co., El Segundo, CA

I hope someone can help me with this one:  I have been seeing (and eliminating
when possible) bugs from my house.  I think they are silverfish (?) but I'm
not sure.  Does anyone know why they might be in my house all of a sudden?  do
they nest somewhere?  Any thoughts on how to get rid of them?  They are such
ugly little things!

Thanks,         
Indra
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Asbestos around heating ducts
From: gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston)
Date: Sun, 10 Jan 93 07:18:39 CST
Organization: Garys' Home for Obsolete Computers

jp45+@andrew.cmu.edu (Jim Thomas Park , Jr.) writes:

> Ronald,
> 	My wife and I are looking at a house and the real estate agent said
> that the house covering is asbestos. I would like to know if there is a
> danger in this siding. The siding looks like squares about 6-8 inches on
> a side and a "wavy" bottom edge. They are overlayed on each other. I
> would like to know if this stuff is dangerous and how should I go about
> having it tested before we make a bid on this house. 

It's not dangerous unless you powderize it. Effectively, asbestos 
siding is a thin sheet of cement, and once the dust is rinsed off,
it's very inert (I have it on both of my houses.) If you drill any
holes, don't breath the shavings. If it's been painted, there's even
less hazard.

Bad points are it's brittle and hard to find replacements; otherwise,
the stuff will last forever.

> P.S. Is there anybody out there that knows who I could contact in the
> state of Pennsylvania to find out about asbestos on houses.

Sorry, all I know about PA is that I don't want to live there. You
should be able to get some hyperparanoid info from the EPA or the
Consumer Protection Agency.

Gary Heston, at home...
gary@cdthq.uucp
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: schultz@halley.est.3m.com (John C. Schultz)
Subject: Re: Vinyl vs. Aluminum vs. other siding
In-reply-to: kevin@.cray.com's message of 6 Jan 93 14:45:17 CST
Organization: 3M Company, 3M Center, Minnesota, USA
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 93 04:08:39 GMT

In article <1993Jan6.144518.7868@walter.cray.com> kevin@.cray.com (Kevin Bluml) writes:

   I seem to recall a thread on this subject recently,
   if there was one, did anyone save the basic discussion?
   If there wasn't, does anyone have any opinions
   on the pluses/minuses of the various types of sidings
   for a house to be built in Minnesota? I'd like
   something maintenance free if possible or low maintenance
   at least. In other words, I don't want to paint it or
   stain it every few years.

We used redwood because of some discussions we had with friends whose
cedar sided house was attached by woodpeckers (bugs liked to nest in
the cedar).  Redwood seeps quite a lot of sap but that doesn't bother
me. Of course both cedar and redwood need to be stained every 5 years
or so presuming a good quality stain.

For low or no maintenance, you might consider:
	vinyl - must be brittle at 20 below F no matter what the sales
			literature says
	aluminum - Dents?
	steel - some friends did their house in steel siding for low 
		maintenance.  Looks OK.
	brick - expensive - needs to be tuck-pointed every 30 years or 
			so? and can't change color.
		
	stucco - most expensive - can't change color (they mix the
		stucco with the color). Tends to collect dirt IMHO.

What do other houses in your neighborhood have?  I like the look of
wood and brick myself but it would look out of place in a neighborhood
with all Aluminum siding or all brick houses.

The insulation value of any of these exterior coverings is nil.
--
   John C. Schultz   +1 (612) 733-4047   schultz@halley.serc.3m.com
   How to include the taste of Glendronach in a multi-media system?
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: dhosek@hmcvax.claremont.edu
Subject: Gas vs. Electric dryer
Organization: Quixote Digital Typography
Date: 6 Jan 93 13:56:09 PST

Given so Cal utility costs what are the relative advantages and
disadvantages of a Gas dryer vs. an electric dryer?

-dh
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: bron@iastate.edu (bronwyn)
Subject: Re: Pet Smells
Originator: bron@aviator.cc.iastate.edu
Keywords: PET 
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames, IA
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 11:58:14 GMT

In article <C0138H.Jns@fiu.edu> cris@rigel4.fiu.edu (Cris Moore) writes:
>
>How should I go about removing the odor that was left after a room had been occupied by 
>dogs & cats for several months (don't ask)....

Removing pet odors from the home is covered in the rec.pets.cats FAQ.
You can probably find a copy in news.answers.

--
Bronwyn J Scrutton                                          bron@iastate.edu
Project Vincent                                               (515) 294-4994
                    If it's not one thing, it's Bronwyn. 
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: flynn@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu (Tim Flynn)
Subject: Garage door handle w/lock
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 20:28:04 GMT


I have a garage door with a standard T-type handle.  The lock is in 
the center of the handle.  Unfortunatly I don't have the key to the
lock (I can still get in the garage through the normal "people" door).
I looked around at a couple of hardware stores but could not find a
replacement handle.  Does anyone know if they make replacement 
locking garage door handles (the handle has "Stanley" stamped on it)?
-- 
Tim Flynn
University of Illinois Foundation
flynn@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (patterson,george r)
Subject: Re: Tying 2 Switches to Common Load?
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 93 23:03:31 GMT

In article <1993Jan5.203718.21060@wybbs.mi.org> jongsma@benzie.si.com writes:
>Does someone with access to the NEC know if it's within spec to drive
>a common load with two switches?
>
>I'm thinking about using a common exhaust fan for two bathrooms. I'd
>like either switch to turn the fan on and was thinking that all I'd
>need to do would be to wire the fan and both switches in parallel.
>The net effect would be that either bathroom switch would be able to turn
>on the fan, but both would have to be off for the fan to go off.

Why don't you just do the job right and use 3-way switches?

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | If God had meant for man to fly, he'd have
                    | given him more money.
                    |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Plumbing Questions
Keywords: advice, toilet
Date: 12 Jan 93 14:49:34 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <1993Jan11.202858.28034@adobe.com> pngai@adobe.com (Phil Ngai) writes:
>In article <4111@ecicrl.ocunix.on.ca> clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis) writes:
>>and know how much to reinforce the floor.  Soldering 3 or 4" copper pipe
>>between joists ain't for amateurs either.  The plumber will also be able

>Not everyone uses copper pipe for drains...

I don't use copper for drains either, but...

>I really can't think of any good reasons for doing so.

How about building code?  When ABS burns it produces rather nasty toxic
gasses.  Our building code requires the use of copper in
multiple-residential, semi-commercial and commercial installations.
Ie: duplexes and church extensions - backed out of doing the
plumbing on one of each type as soon as I discovered that codes
required copper drains.  Then again, probably for the best - I can
run copper or plastic water supply line just fine, but full drain
systems are probably more than I can reasonably handle.

Other building codes are bound to require copper in ordinary residences.

Which is why I thought it best to mention both plastic and copper, and
to avoid doing the copper yourself.  I would also suggest that a complete
amateur (one who had to ask the original question) not do plastic toilet
drains either.  A complete amateur could probably do okay with up to 2"
pipe, but I get doubtful with 3 or 4.

>I certainly wouldn't want to solder a 4" copper pipe with a propane torch.

Nor me.  The plumbers I've watched use small but fully-equipped oxy-acetylene
units.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house

>>My house is currently heated by electric baseboard heaters. Last
>>winter my highest electric bills were in the $100 a month range. This
>>year I installed a timed setback thermostat and I expect to have lower
>>electric bills.
>
>Did you forget a zero, or are we really talking one hundred dollars here?
>Doesn't Seattle get cold?

Electricty in the Pacific NW is extremely cheap, and winter temps are
generally above freezing.  When I lived in Portland about three years
ago, I think rates were around $0.03/kWH.  I lived in a 1000 sq. ft.
apartment with elect. baseboard heat, and didn't have a bill over $60.
Common walls obviously help in apts, but three of my four walls were
exterior.
From: deyo@hong.Eng.Sun.COM (Deyoung Hong)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Title One loan
Date: 6 Jan 1993 00:31:01 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems
Distribution: world
Reply-To: deyo@hong.Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: hong.eng.sun.com


I've heard about a Title One loan, a program which is funded by government to 
let homeowners borrow money to improve their home (even for home without much equity).

Does someone know such a loan in Santa Clara county?

Thanks,

Deyoung.Hong@Eng.Sun.COM
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: CREDIT REPORTS: They don't know the diff. between Jr. and Sr.?
From: Robert Chambers <RMCCU@CUNYVM.BITNET>
Date: Tuesday, 5 Jan 1993 10:00:52 EST
Distribution: usa
Organization: CUNY/UCC VM Systems

I have a friend who has 3 brothers.  Their fathers name, lets call him
John and his mother named all the boys (except my friend- the youngest)

John xxxx  Lastname
John yyyy  Lastname
John zzzz  Lastname

The father also fit this pattern.  The kids were all referred to by xxxx,yyyy,
zzzz, except the father who was known as "John".

I don't know how many problems it caused, but transferring ownership of
vehicles in that household was a breeze!

Robert
From: jp45+@andrew.cmu.edu (Jim Thomas Park , Jr.)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Asbestos around heating ducts
Date: 9 Jan 93 18:02:21 GMT
Article-I.D.: andrew.0fHtzBG00WDK86KEcJ
	<07Jan93.153305.17640@granite.ciw.edu>
Distribution: usa
Organization: Computer Operations, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA

Ronald,
	My wife and I are looking at a house and the real estate agent said
that the house covering is asbestos. I would like to know if there is a
danger in this siding. The siding looks like squares about 6-8 inches on
a side and a "wavy" bottom edge. They are overlayed on each other. I
would like to know if this stuff is dangerous and how should I go about
having it tested before we make a bid on this house. 

						Thanks,
						    -Jim 

P.S. Is there anybody out there that knows who I could contact in the
state of Pennsylvania to find out about asbestos on houses.


***************************************************************
 Hey Man, I'm  drinking wine, eating cheese and catching some rays.

				Oddball
	  			 From Kelly's Heros
***************************************************************
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: barrett@forge.gatech.edu (James Barrett)
Subject: Re: CREDIT REPORTS: They don't know the diff. between Jr. and Sr.?
Organization: Georgia Tech College of Computing
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 13:46:20 GMT

gcm@fns-nc1.fns.com (Grover McCoury) writes:

>In article <1993Jan4.143345.3219@ns.network.com> guy@ns.network.com (Guy D'Andrea) writes:
>>the Twin Cities of Minnesota does NOT make allowances for the difference 
>>between a Jr. and Sr.!  I am fortunate that my dad (Sr.) has good credit since
>>our stuff gets mixed together - on purpose!  I asked the mortgage co. that I am
>This happens to me also. I am the III and I get credit info associated with my
>dad(Jr.). Fortunately, he has good credit(;-}) and it is not a problem but I
>presume I could get his entries removed from my report by writing the agency.
>Anybody have any experience associated with this type of problem?

When I've gotten copies of my report just to make sure it's OK, my Dad's
stuff has been on there (I'm Jr.), but I've written to the agencies and
they've always sent me an updated copy without his information.  Now
that's not to say that next billing cycle, his information won't reappear
since they don't usually flag stuff like that.  It seems to me that 
SSN should be enough to index.

-------------------OS/2 v2.0 -- Why settle for anything less?-----------------
James C. Barrett (barrett@cc.gatech.edu)| Atlanta Braves - 1991 and 1992   
Georgia Tech College of Computing       |    World Outdoor Baseball Champs!!
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: burbaum@msdrl.com (Jonathan Burbaum)
Subject: Dimmer switches that don't buzz...
Organization: Merck Research Laboratories
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 93 02:51:44 GMT

I seem to recall a thread here discussing ways to avoid 
that annoying buzz that happens when an overhead-light
dimmer switch is doing its thing.  The conclusion (as
I recall) was to install a particular type of switch
which dims the light in a different manner (thus
preventing the buzz, which is caused by a rapid on-off
switching of the current to the bulb). 

The question:  Does anyone recall the brand (or brands)
of switch that prevent the noise?  (My local electronics
store gave me a blank stare when I posed the question to 
them.)

Bonus question:  Do you know a supplier for this
brand in Northern NJ? 

--Jonathan
Xref: sparky misc.consumers.house:16621 misc.rural:2797
From: jch@jch@nr-tech.cit.cornell.edu (Jeffrey C Honig)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,misc.rural
Subject: Power company easement
Date: 12 Jan 93 08:48:20
Organization: Information Technologies/Network Resources; Cornell University;
	Ithaca, NY USA
Distribution: misc
NNTP-Posting-Host: mitchell.cit.cornell.edu

Our local power company (NY State Electric and Gas) just contacted me
to request an easement to put a power pole on our property.  Are there
any liabilities or disadvantages if we agree to this?  

The proposed location on what is currently our properly line (we are
trying to purchase the adjoining land from our neighbor) new our barn.
It would be inside what will soon be a sheep and later maybe a duck
pen.  It is right next to a row of pine trees so it should not have
much of an adverse visual impact.

One advantage I can see is that it's proximity to the barn would allow
us to have a seperate electrical service installed for the barn.  The
panel and wiring in the barn need to be replaced anyway.  It is
currently feed from a 20A overhead circuit from the house which dodges
some trees on the way over.

Thanks.

Jeff
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: vvdmtp@ariel.lerc.nasa.gov (Donna Pavlik (Sverdrup))
Subject: refinishing tile
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
Date:  8 Jan 1993 07:51 EST  


Recently I bought a house in which the previous owners
painted over the tiles around the sink and stove in the
kitchen.  It's painted an awful mustard color and in
some places it's beginning to peel (aqua underneath).
Short of ripping it all out and replacing it, is there
anything I can do to refinish it?

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: cogen@ll.mit.edu (David Cogen)
Subject: Re: Patching Ceiling Plaster Cracks
Originator: cogen@ll.mit.edu (David Cogen)
Organization: MIT Lincoln Laboratory, Lexington MA
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 93 21:47:22 GMT


In article <C0Hy3v.IHo@andy.bgsu.edu>, gagen@andy.bgsu.edu (kathleen gagen) writes:
|> There is a product sometimes called plaster washers.  These are metal washers
|> of 3/4 in diameter.  They are attatched to the plaster and lath with drywall
|> screws.

These are also known as ceiling buttons, I think. I have such things that 
sound what like you describe.

David Cogen
From: cnrdean@toxic (Sam Scalise)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Refrigerator Ice ... yeech!
Date: 6 Jan 1993 19:39:26 GMT
Organization: U.C. College of Natural Resources
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: toxic.berkeley.edu


PLEEEEZ let me know if you find a solution.  I have had two different
icemakers in two different fridges in two different houses.  Same lousy
tasting ice.  Here are my guesses at the causes and my mostly
unsucessful solutions:

1.  Water gets stale in pipe.  (I guess it actually takes on some taste
from the pipe.  I have a copper lead pipe.) Occasionally flush out the
pipe leading to the fridge.  Although, this doesn't solve the problem
of the water in the fridge itself.

2.  Icemaker makes too much ice, so some of it sits around for a long
time, taking on flavor of other things in the freezer.  I always turn
off my icemaker before it makes a full bucket of ice.

My wife won't even touch the ice.  I finish my drinks very fast so
that the ice won't have too much time to melt.

Open to suggestions.
Sam
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: brett@sr.hp.com ()
Subject: Re: Gray flexible water supply pipe OK?
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 21:26:58 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: HP Sonoma County (SRSD/MWTD/MID)
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8.1]

Topher Eliot (eliot@chutney.rtp.dg.com) wrote:
> Re joint failures:
> 1) Does anyone have knowledge of failed joints using METAL connectors?  Or
> were all the failures with plastic inner parts?

All joint failures in my house were with METAL connectors.  There's no way for
me to tell if the failures were due to age (the pressure fitting just gave out)
or improper installation (too lose or too tight).

I wish those of you with plastic pipe much luck.  I hope you never have any
trouble with it.  But I've been burned once and shall not make that mistake
again.

--

							Brett Carver
							(707) 577-4344
							brett@sr.hp.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house