HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: ktong@shannon.jpl.nasa.gov (Kevin Tong)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: When waxing car, paint comes off.
Date: 27 Jan 1993 16:24:57 GMT
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory, Section 331
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: shannon.jpl.nasa.gov


I have a red 87 Honda Prelude.  

Now, when I apply wax with a white wax applicator, the
applicator has a light red color, indicating paint coming
off.  The paint still seems like its in good condition,
but is not "glass" smooth.  BTW I was applying Finish 2001 wax.

What is wrong with the paint?  Is this normal? If not, what
can I do to prevent further deterioration.

Thanks ahead.


-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Kevin Tong, (818) 354-0657      Jet Propulsion Laboratory, MS 238-420
ktong@shannon.jpl.nasa.gov       Pasadena, California  91109
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ehawrysh@bnr.ca (Evan Hawrysh)
Subject: Re: Where's PCV valve on 88 5.0L Mustang?
Reply-To: ehawrysh@bnr.ca
Organization: BNR
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 93 16:56:50 GMT

In article 2721@eos.arc.nasa.gov, jim-ra@eos.arc.nasa.gov (Jim Stevenson's reader) writes:
>Does anyone know where's the PCV valve on a 1988 5.0L 8 cylinder Mustang
>located?
>

The PCV valve is pretty much directly behind the intake plenum (towards the 
windshield, close to the firewall). Just look for a rubber line approx 2 cm O.D.
that appears to terminate directly into the intake manifold at a rubber grommet.
Pull it out and with it will come the valve.

EH


Posted-Date: Thu, 28 Jan 93 07:35:57 -0600
Received-Date: Thu, 28 Jan 93 07:36:40 CST
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 93 07:35:57 -0600
From: Matt Rein #3 <mrein3@cfsmo.honeywell.com>
To: rec.autos.tech
Subject: CRX Lost MPG oxy gas
From: hugo@bluehau.bubble.org (Hugo Bueno)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: My Excel Squeals
Keywords: belts
Date: 23 Jan 93 20:06:08 GMT
Organization: The Blue House

mclk@troi.cc.rochester.edu (Richard Pace) says:
>
>I have a 1989 Hyundai Excel (standard 4 speed) that squeals loudly when I 
>start it in the cold and also as I accelerate at low speeds.  I brought
>it into the shop and they replaced a serpentine belt.  It didn't seem to 
>help since it still squeals.  Any suggestions? 
>
>Ric Pace
>mclk@troi.cc.rochester.edu
It could be that the belt is loose.  Try to tighten it up
a bit more.

-- 
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Hugo Bueno ! Fanwood, NJ | hugo@bluehau.bubble.org
From: stiegg@aix.rpi.edu (Gregory Mark Stiegler)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Olds 455 swapping and stuff
Summary: Want to swap Olds 455
Keywords: Oldsmobile, 455, engine swaps
Date: 22 Jan 93 15:46:02 GMT



I'm looking for swap info on Olds 455 blocks.  Basically I'm wondering if the
block is physically similar to Pontiac and Buick 455 blocks...ie to the
engine mounts line up and are the width/head clearances similar?

Obviously I have one of the beasts and no decent car to put it in (along with
a TH400) and I'm trying to look at options...decent Old's seem scarce around
here...one other thing someone told me that I found a bit odd is they say
the Olds 455 block is the same size as the 350 block?!?!?! This sounds a bit
far fetched but is it true?  Anyone have any experience swapping Olds 350 and
455 blocks?

Any comments would be appreciated...and any offers if anyone wants the engine/
tranny/etc....its still in a car and running....

   Greg

-- 
===========================================================================
  "Bureaucracy is a challenge to be conquered with a righteous attitude,
     a tolerance for stupidity, and a bulldozer when necessary"
                  -- Peter's Laws
From: mrein3@cfsmo.honeywell.com (Matt Rein #3)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Jeep stuck, frozen puddle, how to free up?
Date: 26 Jan 93 20:37:47 GMT
Organization: mailEnteringNews at Honeywell SRC
Posted-Date: Tue, 26 Jan 93 14:37:47 -0600
Received-Date: Tue, 26 Jan 93 14:38:31 CST
To: rec.autos.tech

> 
> My friend got himself stuck in a pretty deep puddle two days ago. In the 
> meantime the puddle has turned to solid ice.  Teh front of the vehicle 
> is about 15" under water/ice, the rear - well - his 31" tires barely 
> stick out of the ice.  The ice is only 1/2" thick, but still enough to 
> keep the thing in there.  Yesterday we pulled only very lightly and tore 
> his bumper off - oops.  Now: what is a smarter approach?  We are 
> thinking of first using a sledgehammer to crush the ice, then pull with 
> two trucks.  Is there a smarter approach?  There is no way to get a 
> tow-truck near this, by the way.  almost got my Toyota stuck just going 
> there....
> 
> Any seasoned four-wheelers out there?
> 

Of all the stupid...
Sorry

What I would do is break the ice around the truck with a hammer, your feet,
or whatever.  The chances are the ice is melted now anyways (mid to upper 30's
today in Wisc.)  Then hook up to the frame.  NEVER HOOK UP TO THE BUMPER!!!
DA!
If the thing will start and run, use it along with the pulling truck to
help it out of the mud.

Oh yea, use a real truck to pull it out.  :-)

--
- Matt Rein
- mrein3@hp370d.cfsmo.honeywell.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks)
Subject: Re: windshield wipers
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 19:43:17 GMT

In article <1993Jan25.053722.22517@scott.skidmore.edu> jdrout@scott.skidmore.edu (JTD is lost) writes:
>yuri@amath.washington.edu (Yuri Yulaev) writes:
>> 	I need new wipers : my old ones too noisy and not very efficient
>> during good rain.
>> 	Yuri Yulaev
>> 	6553, 38th ave NE
>> 	Seattle, WA 98115
>> 	h:(206)-524-9547, 524-2806
>
>Is this post for real?  Maybe its his wish list.  I need a new set of
>speakers for my Civic.;);>
>
>Seriously, Yuri-
>	What kind of wipers did you have?
>	What kind of car?
>
Do you know how to find the automotive section at your local K-mart?
Easiest place to find replacements.
 
Ted Brooks
 ______________________________________________________________________
| Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are my own, and do not reflect    |
| those of my employer. Advice is free, but you get what you pay for.  |
|                               ________                               |
|                         _____|  1955  |_______                       |
|                        /      Chevrolet      /                       |
|                       /______  BelAir  _____/                        |
|                              |________|                              |
|______________________________________________________________________|

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks)
Subject: Re: Cutlass Problems
Keywords: surging, need help
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 17:35:34 GMT

In article <1joac7INN5ao@phakt.usc.edu> kinter@phakt.usc.edu (Ryan Kinter) writes:
>	I'm hoping that someone can help me with my problem.  I have
>an '82 Cutlass with 125M(13M since rebuild) with a 3.8l V6.  Under
>heavy loads it surges.  I first noticed it when the car was loaded down 
>for a long trip.  It would get to around 65 and then start surging.  A
>temporary solution was letting off the gas and then slowly squeezing it
>back.  This seemed to work but we still had to limit out speeds to 60.
>
>Some info:
>3.8L V6, 3-speed auto, 2.56(or some other low number)rear differential, 
>carburated(Rochester Dualjet 210), computer controlled
>
>The air filter is  clean, new crankcase breather filter, pulls 15+ psi
>vaccuum at idle, fuel pump puts out 4 psi(is this ok or too low?), rebuilt
>the carb just prior to the trip to CA.
>
>

Hmm. Several suggestions. First find and replace any and all fuel filters
you can find. Usually there's just one, but can be more. Also, you fuel
pressure sounds a bit low, as does the vacuum, but that may be correct for
this car. Try the fuel pump second.

If the carb's been rebuilt recently, you may have a power valve that was
overlooked or improperly installed.
 
Ted Brooks
 ______________________________________________________________________
| Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are my own, and do not reflect    |
| those of my employer. Advice is free, but you get what you pay for.  |
|                               ________                               |
|                         _____|  1955  |_______                       |
|                        /      Chevrolet      /                       |
|                       /______  BelAir  _____/                        |
|                              |________|                              |
|______________________________________________________________________|
From: frank@marvin.contex.com (Frank Perdicaro)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 70 Olds pushrod problem
Date: 25 Jan 93 17:01:06 GMT
Organization: Xyvision Design Systems

In article <22JAN93.16033319@jevex.waisman.wisc.edu> landerson@jevex.waisman.wisc.edu writes:
>I have a 1970 Olds Cutlass with a 350 motor.  I recently installed a
>Crane cam from Summit.  The lift is 456 and the intake and exhaust is 484.
>
>After installing the cam we still noticed some valve lash.  A guy told
>me to file down the rocker assembly's and that did take care of the
>problem some.  I wasn't sure that was the best thing to do to solve
>the problem.  Wouldn't that cause more damage in the long run?
>
By the mirical of the net, I present the exact solution.  

Use big block chevy "small" ( 5/16? ) intake pushrods to cure small valve 
lash problems with small block olds.  I have these in my 69 Rocket 350.  
I believe they are 0.050 longer than stock.  Use them for both intake and
exhaust.  The parts guy will wonder why you want 16.

I too have a non-stock cam.

For the better solution, call Mondello Performance and get the fully
adjustable roller tip roller rocker kit with studs.  818 994 6910.
This will cure large valve lash problems.

I may do this soon, it depends on my cash flow.

Also, if you buy the big block chevy intake manifold 12 point
stainless steel bolt kit from ARP/Summit, you will find that it will
work exceedingly well holding your exhaust manifold.  Trust me. Just
buy it.

-- 
	 Frank Evan Perdicaro 				Xyvision Color Systems
      Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.		101 Edgewater Drive
   inhouse: frank@marvin, x5572				Wakefield MA
outhouse: frank@contex.com, 617-245-4100x5572		018801285
From: skd@swamp.cacs.usl.edu (Suresh Damodaran Kamal)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Electronic Ignition Timing
Date: 26 Jan 93 22:36:18 GMT
Article-I.D.: usl.1993Jan26.223618.8749
Distribution: usa
Organization: The Center for Advanced Computer Studies

I have a Ford Escort 87 and it has electronic ignition timing.

Now the question: 
	 When a routine tune up is done, can the timing be changed?
	 Or, is it necessary at all?

	I have to decide whether to change the spark plugs myself
or take the car to the tune up shops and get it "professionally tuned".

Thanks for the help!

Suresh
	


-- 
========================================================================
Suresh Damodaran-Kamal                    Holler: 318-231-5809(O)
P.O.Box 42322                            	  318-234-8105(H)
Lafayette, LA 70504             		Email:skd9499@usl.edu
Organization: Rohm and Haas Company
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 13:23:18 EST
From: Kevin J Reim <RSXKJR@rohvm1.rohmhaas.com>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,
Subject:    Engine options 302 or 351?

Hi,
I Have A high mileage FORD 302 in my '84 BRONCO that is getting tired.
When it goes, I'd like to either: 1)Rebuild the current engine (302)
or 2)Replace the 302 with a 351. I've heard that's that's a straight
boltup.

My question is  what is the advantages/disadvantages of either, and what
performance differences will I see with a 351?.
BTW they will be bolted to a C-6 trans.
From: jd1y+@andrew.cmu.edu (J Roland Defilippi)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Poor economy--318 Mopar
Date: 27 Jan 93 07:48:15 GMT
Article-I.D.: andrew.wfNgfTe00WB_Q70ENI
Organization: Senior, Architecture, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA

In article <1993Jan22.225336.8346@newstand.syr.edu> Bob Valentine
<ravalent@mailbox.syr.edu> writes:

>>At any rate, the engine is a 1983 with 80,k mi, and a Holly Economaster
>>Lean Burn Carb.  The ignition system has been converted back to
>>breaker points after the computer started acting up.

>You ARE joking, right? When the motor was swapped, the 4bbl intake,
>carb, and ignition should have been put on the "new" motor.
>So now you have a computer carb with a P&C ignition. Jeeeez, who did
>this motor swap, Sears?
>At least if the computer was acting up, you should have replaced
>the computer distributor with a vacuum advance electronic.

1--4bbl carb in a 2bbl motor:
The Direct Connection and Moper Performance manuals, written by the
Chrysler development engineeres, strongly suggest that you not run
a 4bbl on a base 318 because the valves are not sized for the increased
flow required to take advantage of the second half of the carb.  A stock
318 runs a Carter 350CFM 2bbl with no electronic mixture adjustment.
According to the dealer, the police 4bbl is an 850CFM, produced by GM
and with electronic feedback for mixture adjustment.  Additionally,
the 318 4bbl had a different cam than standard 2bbl motors, making the
swap from 2bbl to 4bbl even less effective.  To produce an effective
4bbl swap, MP recommends a new cam as well as new heads, and once you're
in that deep you might as well rebuild the motor from the bottom up.

2--breaker points:
I put the points in after the car was already out of the shop.  Sunday
evenings 1200 miles away from home often don't leave you with too many
options.  At least I had the distributor with me to get the car home.
A stock elctronic ignition system offers little above points except
for its dependability.  The spark is marginally hotter than with new
points.  The downside of converting is the parts involved and the need
to cut into the stock wiring harness, as well as mounting the module,
which requires drilling holes in the firewall.

>Strangely, most 318's seem to do shitty on gas.

I have owned 9 318 powered mid sized Mopars.  My 1970 Coronet 500 with
points got the best milage at 24mpg from Boston to Phily and back, but
I had fabricated a hood scoop, and it 2.71 gears behind a 4-speed, so
maybe that is a bad example.  My 1971 Sebring got 18-20 consistantly
with an auto trans and 3:23 gears.  Even now, running bad gas and with
points, my 67 Charger 383 4bbl 4-spd will turn 14-15 with the cruise on.
The 318 in my 4x4 will turn 13mpg with the cruise on.  In general I
have found most people will get at least in the high teens for milage,
which isn't bad for a 4,k+ car with no overdrive.

--Roland
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: wesf@boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii)
Subject: Re: WHAT IS AN A-I-R PUMP ON A CHEVY CAPRICE ENGINE?
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 15:51:20 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

Jim Vienneau  - Sun Microsystems (jimv@hienergy.East.Sun.COM) wrote:

: I don't know about the Caprice, but on my '82 Buick Regal with the 3.8L V6,
: the AIR pump only pumps into the exhaust stream for the first 5 minutes of
: engine start, then it just diverts the air into the air cleaner. It helps
: cut down the emissions before the ECM goes into closed loop mode. When it
: started to seize, I pulled the belt with no difference in performace or
: fuel economy. (for the greenies out there, yes I'm going to replace it as
: soon as it gets warm enough here to go junkyard roaming).

There are several different applications of the AIR pump in the GM rigs.
One common application is to pump the air into the exhaust manifold during
open loop mode (warming up).  This gets the catalytic converter warmed up
and up to temperature faster.  Then, when the engine goes into closed loop
mode (engine warm, computer actively adjusting stuff) the air is switched
in the diverter valve to the middle bed of the catalytic converter.  The
pump only absorbs 3hp, I believe, and when working properly you shouldn't
be able to tell that it's there.

The oxygen sensor is upstream from the closed loop air injection point so 
it will not be affected by the AIR system.

REMOVING OR DISABLING THE PUMP MUST BE DONE WITH CARE!  As other people 
have posted, it is best to pull the whole AIR system, plug the manifold 
openings and remove the catalytic converter.  If you just remove the
belt, the exhaust gasses will make their way up the tubes, past the 1-way
check valves right into flammable rubber hoses and plastic diverter valve.  
Engine fires are not uncommon when this happens and repairs are thus
expensive.  For a mere 3hp, it's best just to keep the thing in working
order and reduce the tailpipe emissions.

WARNING!  On some vehicles, the AIR pump also provides vacuum to some
accessories so depending on your engine, you could be disabling more than
what you bargain for!

Wes Fujii
________________________________________________________________
      ___   ___ ___ 
     /  /  /  //  /
    /  /__/  //  /    A real motor is an Oldsmobile Rocket 455
   /  HURST //  /     "This is NOT the new generation of Olds"
  /  /  /  //  /_______ 
 /__/  /__//  //  ___  \
          /  //  /   \  \       Wes "BANZAI" Fujii
         /  //  /OLDS/  /          Boise, Idaho
        /  / \  \___/  /      wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com
       /__/   \_______/
From: sharen@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com (Sharen A. Rund)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Advice on some repairs
Date: 27 Jan 93 21:00:34 GMT
Organization: Lockheed Missiles and Space Co.

In article <1993Jan27.180016.6350@cc.gatech.edu> sougata@cc.gatech.edu (Sougata Mukherjea) writes:
>Hi net-world,
>I have a Ford Escort 4-door.
>I went for a routine check-up and the mechanic told me of the following problem:
>I have to fix the inner tire rod ends since they were pushing on my tires.

I believe you mean tie-rods

>It may cause some safety hazard.

yep - it could/would continue to keep throwing the wheels off balance, thus
causing uneven tire wear, thus causing shimmying when you drive, for a start

>I'll also have to have a beaming repack rear (that's what they said -
>I don't have any idea what it meant).
>Finally I'll have to have the wheels alligned.

probably cuz of the tie-rod problem

>The total cost comes to about $200.
>
>My qs are:
>(1) Is the problem really a safety hazard that needs to be fixed immediately
>or can it wait?

see above

>(2) Is the price quoted reasonable?

not bad

>
>Thanks for any help (by e-mail).
>
>- Sougata
>
>
>=============================================================================	
>  Sougata Mukherjea (sougata@cc.gatech.edu)
>  Graphics Visualization and Usability Center, College of Computing,
>  Georgia Institute of Technology. 
>=============================================================================


-- 
________________       __        ________________   "They that can give up
\_________      \     /_ \      /      _________/  essential liberty to 
 \_________      \_____/  \____/      _________/  obtain temporary safety
  \___________________      __________________/  deserve neither liberty 
                     /______\                   nor safety."  
ALL disclaimers apply ....                           --Benjamin Franklin
	  
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: murray_t@wizard.colorado.edu
Subject: Re: Fan belt falls off
Organization: UMS
Date: 22 JAN 93 13:08:27 MST

In a previous article, brad_lange@chdqm1.sps.mot.com (Brad Lange) wrote:
>As a followup to my original request, I would like to thank everyone that
>responded. 
> 
>I found the problem after checking all the pulleys. Apparently the air pump
>bracket had two bolts broken off the bottom which allowed the air pump to
>tilt out about a half inch and bring the pully out of alignment. It wasn't
>that obvious from a casual inspection. It required the standard grubbing
>around on a dirty floor to see the problem.
> 
>Looks like I will be spending this weekend removing two bolts with the
>heads broken off to fix this problem. I don't know where the saying
>"weekends were made for Michelob" came from. I really think they were made
>for repairing cars.
> 
>Brad

Personally, I find that auto repair and Michelob go hand-in-hand.  Cold 
beer of any kind is good for easing the pain of bloodied knuckles and the
frustration of washers/nuts lost in the dirt.

-Todd
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mgolden@cwis.unomaha.edu (Brian Golden)
Subject: Re: URGENT Camaro info needed (1974 w/ 455cu in)
Organization: University of Nebraska at Omaha
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 08:23:49 GMT

eric@eeco.cba.ufl.edu  writes:
> The car originally had a 6-cylinder engine.  The seller has installed a 
> 455cid Pontiac engine & TH400 tranny.  He said it's still got the original 
> 10 bolt rear end.  Allegedly good interior, new carpet.  Good body - he did 
> some rust repair on it (rear passenger quarter panel).  It's in primer right
Be wary of big engines dropped into 6 cyl bodies.  Even though the engine
and tranny can handle/produce the power, the way that the rest of the car
reacts to it is a different story.  Many car manufacturers build the whole
suspension lighter on 6 cyl models than on the V8 ones.  Things almost
certain to be different are sway bars, possibly brakes, and springs/struts.
Drive the car and look for severe understeer, because of the big block
sitting on the nose of the car.  The 10 bolt rear end will handle a lot
of power, but if you plan on racing it, plan on replacing it with a 12 bolt
in the near future.
  When you go to look at the car, bring a magnet to test the fenders with and
see how much metal is actually there, and how much bondo.  Overall, this
sounds like a good car, just as long as you know what you are getting
yourself into.  Do all the normal used car buying checks, like under
the floor pans for rust, and check the frame around the engine for cracks
from the big HP producing big block.  If it is in decent condition,
the $900 bucks would be worth the body alone, let alone the big block
and tranny.  Hope this helps.  Let me know how it turns out!

Mike Golden - mgolden@cwis.unomaha.edu

P.S.  Anyone got a set of small block headers that would fit a '79 Buick Regal?
I have a set of big block headers that I would be willing to trade or to
sell alone.
From: Peter.Barrett@newcastle.ac.uk (Peter Barrett)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: How hot can an exhaust manifold get ?
Date: 21 Jan 93 15:44:37 GMT
Organization: University of Newcastle upon Tyne, UK, NE1 7RU

In <1993Jan20.011647.9159@jpradley.jpr.com> adykes@jpradley.jpr.com (Al Dykes) writes:

>He recently opened the hood after dark, for the first time and 
>notices that the exhaust manifold between the block and the turbo 
>was glowing dull red.   

...

>Is the glow normal ?

A few years ago one of the UK motoring magazines published a photograph of
a high-performance sports car (it might have been a Lotus Esprit Turbo, but
I don't really remember) after a high-speed run. Not only the manifold, but
also the whole turbocharger, was glowing a *bright* red.

They made some comment about it looking spectacular, but the engineer
simply calls for a heat shield and moves on to the real problems.

Peter.
Peter A. Barrett                            Peter.Barrett@newcastle.ac.uk
Dependable Computing Systems Centre
The University, 20 Windsor Terrace          Tel. +44 91 222 6384
Newcastle upon Tyne NE1 7RU  U.K.           Fax. +44 91 222 7995