HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: subotic@osl440a.erim.org (Nik Subotic)
Subject: Re: Madison area brewpubs
Organization: Environmental Research Institute of Michigan, Ann Arbor, Michigan
Date: 15 Dec 92 15:53:29



I got this from James Dipalma:


From: dipalma@banshee.sw.stratus.com (James Dipalma)
To: subotic@osl440a.erim.org
Subject: brewpubs in WI


	Hello,

	I tried to post this, but it bounced.  Please feel free to
	post it, as others have expressed interest.

	   I only know of one, it's a brewpub called Weissburger Gasthaus,
 	located in Pewaukee at the intersection of the major interstate
	(US 84?) and Highway T.  There is a huge General Electric facility
	on the other side of the highway.
================
	I think he means Interstate 94 and Highway T -- Nik
==============
	   Last time I was there, about 18 months ago, they had several beers
	up, a Dunkel lager, a pils, weiss beer, and a lager by the
	unpretentious name "house amber."  All of these beers were superb,
	much better than the usual brewpub quality.  They were served in
	18 oz steins for $2.00, the great thing was that 12 oz of Budweiser
	cost $2.25!

                                   Enjoy,
                                     Jim
========================
On another note, the makers of Gartenbrau are situated in Middleton,
WI (a western suburb of Madison). It's called Capital Brewery Inc.

Thanks to all who responded.  If I get any more info. I'll post.

Prosit

	
	



--
--
Nikola S. Subotic
Signal and Image Processing Dept.
Optical and IR Science Laboratory
Environmental Research Institute of Michigan 
P.O. Box 134001                              
Ann Arbor, MI 48113-4001                     
(313)-994-1200 x-2711                        
subotic@erim.org                     
--
From: rcm@col.hp.com (hpctdfc)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: ?!?->"DME"<-?!?
Date: 14 Dec 1992 21:06:02 GMT
Organization: Don't ask me, I'm Lost!
NNTP-Posting-Host: hpctdfc.col.hp.com

> But as I'm sure you could see from reading the rest of my article, I
> had been under the impression that diastatic malt extract was a
> supplement, rather than the bulk of the extract for a batch.

Well, I don't know anybody who uses it as just a supplement, even
though that is probably what is was intended for.  I personally
know many brewers who use it as the base for all their brews...
I must have missed your supplement impression...

> Anyway...I do apprectiate the correction, even though I don't
> apprectiate you making me look like a doofus by responding to my
> comments out of context!

It's not out of context if the context (article) wasn't there for me
to read - I assume you mean you posted another article that had
already been deleted from my system - no doof-ing was intended.
I don't know why you would say that Edme dark wasn't available just
because you couldn't find it...


Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jim@thor.albany.edu (SCHLEMMER JAMES A)
Subject: Are rice syrup SOLIDS converted?
Organization: State University of New York at Albany
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 92 18:19:13 GMT

I'm trying to decide whether to dump them in the mash or the boil.
Papazian indicates that rice syrup is converted but doesn't
mentions rice syrup solids.  I've not checked Miller.

Jim
From: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us (Joseph Nathan Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Hefe vs Krystal Weissbier
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 92 07:32:49 EDT
Organization: 5 Sigma Software
Reply-To: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us
X-Mailer: uAccess - Macintosh Release: 1.5v5


In article <BzHpHI.Bto@news.cso.uiuc.edu> (rec.crafts.brewing), amead@s.psych.uiuc.edu (Alan Mead) writes:
) I have yet to brew a wiessbier, and I have (in Papazian's book) a
) recipie for a hefe weissbier.  Is it a real pain to make krystal?
) And if anyone has brewed a krystal, is the taste really different?
) 
You'd have to make a clear weizen to start with, which would be
challenging but doable.  (Say "protein rest."  "Long mash."  "Long
lagering time."  There.  I knew you could!)  Then you'd need to filter
it, which is again a pain, but you can get one of those cannister
filter gizmos from one of several suppliers in Zymurgy.  Then you'd
need to bottle it from a pressurized keg.  So you're looking at a
financial, as well as a technical, challenge.  But go for it!  Send
me a few!  Make a dunkelweizen while you're at it!

Meanwhile, I hear that many (perhaps the word was "most") serious
contest competitors are pressure bottling nowadays.  I wonder if maybe
this practice should be disallowed except for certain styles of beer.
Require that contest beers be live, bottle-conditioned beers, maybe?

=======================================================================
uunet!joebloe!joseph   (609) 273-8200 day   joseph%joebloe@uunet.uu.net
2102 Ryan's Run East        Rt 38 & 41             Maple Shade NJ 08052
Copyright 1992 by Joseph N. Hall.   Permission granted to copy and
redistribute freely over USENET and by email.  Commercial use prohibited.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: andy rogers <rogers@ial3.jsc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Aeration of wort?
X-Xxdate: Wed, 16 Dec 92 18:19:31 GMT
Organization: Lockheed Engineering
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d13
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 18:19:16 GMT

In article <1992Dec16.161001.9327@sernews.raleigh.ibm.com> Charlie Murray,
murray@rocky.raleigh.ibm.com writes:
>My local homebrew shop (American Brewmaster in Raleigh, NC) is going to sell
>an aeriation device that is basically a fish tank bubbler.  The claim is that
>by leaving this thing in your primary for the first 24 hours, you will get
>superior aeriation and subsequently fermentation (versus the slosh method).
>Are they on the mark?

consider that you will be pumping air from the room into your beer and that
air will be replacing the CO2 which would otherwise be resting in the
fermenter headspace. unless you've also got a tank of 'clean' oxygen you're
pumping from.

i wouldn't do it.
my $o.o2

aNDY
----
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: connolly@iastate.edu (Patrick H Connolly)
Subject: Stout: pretty flat, but hell, it tastes good!
Summary: Stoutish (Not overly)
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames IA
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 21:47:04 GMT

I recentlyy brewed my firstt batch.  Laagla's "Irish" stout.  It
seems to have turned out fine, but it seems pretty  flat. 
It was brewed in grolsh snap p- on bottles and doesn't seem to have
leaked.  When poured, no real head, mad.  What could I do to enhance/add
more carbonation.  It's been stored for approx. 1 month @ 68 degrees.
Any discussion is appreciated...
BTW - What would be a next step for a batch?  I'm thinking of a pale
ale - Recommendations?

Thanks.

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: ulick@bernini.helios.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford)
Subject: Re: questions about mead from a beginner
Organization: OUC, University of Notre Dame
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 18:15:58 GMT

In article <1992Dec11.044037.11183@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU> dmm0t@holmes.acc.Virginia.EDU (Dave Meyer) writes:
>
>when this happened, the airlock started bubbling like mad.  Thus I
>discovered that if I shake the carboy up a bit, I get a sudden burst
>of gas coming out the airlock.
>
>Why does shaking it up have such an effect?  I don't think it's
>because I'm aerating the mead, because there's precious little O2 in
>the carboy - it should all be CO2.  Is this behaviour normal?  Is it
>bad?  Is it OK to shake the carboy to speed things up?
>
>Reassurance (if things are OK) and/or advice on how to make repairs
>(if things have gone wrong) would be much appreciated.

It's OK.  Have you ever shaken a soda can prior to opening it?  My biggest
brewing disaster (touch wood) was when I took a lagering bock out of its
lager and gave it a good shake.  I was happy I was using a Canadian Lock
rather than the S-type but that sucker was a geyser and the aspergillus 
niger on my absement ceiling and wall still mark where that nutritios
geyser was.

Reason - a chemical phenomenon known as ... damn my mind is gone.  I
drank too much mind polluting yellow fluid last night (no not homebrew).

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 
+ 'There was a  master come unto the earth, + Ulick Stafford, PP-ASEL       +
+    born in the holy land of Indiana,      + Dept of Chemical Engineering, +
+ in the mystical hills east of Fort Wayne'.+ Notre Dame, IN 46556          +
+      B'fhearr liom bheith ag eitilt.      +    ulick@bach.helios.nd.edu   +
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From: mark@verdix.com (Mark Lundquist)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: ?!?->"DME"<-?!?
Date: 11 Dec 92 20:24:09 GMT
Article-I.D.: verdix.9244
Organization: Verdix Western Operations, Aloha  OR

In article <89920028@hpcupt1.cup.hp.com> arnet@hpcupt1.cup.hp.com (Arne Thormodsen) writes:
	(Mark sez):
>>and brews something from 7 pounds of *diastatic* malt extract ("yeah,
>>'Edme DME', just like its says on the can..." :-) and not get the brew
>>they expected...
>

>This reminded me to ask, exactly what does "diastatic" mean?  Enquiring
>minds want to know...

"Diastatic" refers to "diastase", a generic term for the
starch-converting enzymes in malt (alpha- and beta-amylase).

Edme makes a special extract syrup using a process that doesn't
destroy those enzymes.  I've never used it, but my understanding is
that it's not really supposed to be the "base" extract for a batch of
beer, but rather used in smaller amounts as a source of enzymes for
converting specialty malts that require a mash (e.g. Carapils and kilned
malts such as Munich and Vienna malts) when brewing from extract or a
partial mash, where sufficient enzymes are not available.  Can someone
with more expertise confirm or correct this?

>
>--arne
>
>P.S. - This mind in particular, as I substituted 7 lbs of Alexander's
>dark malt extract for (at the moment unobtainable) Edme dark DME.  Have
>I blundered?

Not in the same way, and only if you substituted syrup for dry.  Your
recipe does use "DME" to mean "dry malt" -- because there's no "dark
diastatic malt extract", and even if there were, a recipe wouldn't
call for 7 lbs. of it...(per my earlier comments).

However, if you substituted syrup for the dry extract, you will get a
lower OG than expected.  Since part of a given weight of syrup is
water, whereas the same weight of spray malt is 100% pure malt nummies,
you have mutiply by some conversion factor to get the expected OG when
substituting syrup for dry or vice-versa.

Cheers,
--mark
From: mark@verdix.com (Mark Lundquist)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: feeding yeast with yeast
Date: 14 Dec 92 20:16:02 GMT
Article-I.D.: verdix.9254
Organization: Verdix Western Operations, Aloha  OR

In article <1992Dec14.044238.11158@advtech.uswest.com> mgooley@advtech.uswest.com (Mark. Gooley) writes:
>I have several pounds of baker's yeast that is approaching its expiration
>date (bought it cheap therefore).  Suppose that I take several ounces of
>it, mix that with water, and boil it to death.  Would it make an adequate
>substitute for yeast nutrient for brewing mead?

Along the same lines...there's something called "nutritional yeast"
(as opposed to active yeast) that you can buy in the store.  My wife
got some because a recipe called for it -- I think it is used for
flavoring.

Anyway, from what I understand this stuff to be (dead yeast), it would
seem to be the same as the "yeast energizer" that is sold in homebrew
shops.  Looks the same, smells the same, but it's a lot cheaper.

Does anybody know whether it is in fact the same stuff?
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: pyle@intellistor.com (Norm Pyle)
Subject: Re: Using bleach to sanitize
Organization: Intellistor, Longmont, CO
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 92 15:35:07 GMT

In article <1992Dec16.152530.9625@ac.dal.ca> ech@ac.dal.ca writes:

[snip]

[John D. writes about sanitizing with bleach and NOT rinsing]

[more snippage]

>	Sorry, but I will have to argue the point.  There is a reason to rinse:
>chlorophenols.  After soaking a carboy in bleach, letting it air dry not only
>takes a long time, but may leave chlorine behind.  I like the beer-rinse
>suggestion, but due to budgetary constraints...  I use lukewarm water and 
>steri-clean to wash and sanitize, then upend the carboy on the bottle washer
>and thoroughly hose the inside with HOT water.  Hot water removes the chlorine
>better than cold (hense the tepid water when sanitizing).  Then I let the 
>carboy drip-dry.  The chlorine content of tap water is insufficient for
>sanitizing, but is sufficient for ensuring a low bacteria count in the rinse
>water.  A thorough rinse with hot water should remove the chlorine sufficiently
>to prevent detectable levels of chlorophenols.
>
>	Rebuttals welcome

Thank you I'll try.  Do you KNOW what's living in your water heater tank?
I've been told that life exists inside the water tank / hot water lines.
What type of life?  I don't know but I DO know I don't want that kind of
low-life in MY beer.  I'm very happy rinsing chlorine with cold water,
assuming/realizing the following:

1) the chlorine amounts will be reduced to parts per gazillion (stay with me,
   I may get a little technical),
2) the chlorine's job is to kill bugs (I warned you this could get technical)
   that were airborne, now sitting on my equipment,
3) the cold water's job is to reduce the amount of chlorine on the
   equipment,
4) my cold tap water has a very low bacteria count, it is not zero,
5) warm (hot) water sitting in a tank has a greater chance for bacterial
   growth than cold running water.

Oh and 6), it works for me.  Of course, I'm sure your method works for you.

Norm
From: mark@verdix.com (Mark Lundquist)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Gleaming immersion chiller
Keywords: should I worry? ;-)
Date: 14 Dec 92 16:40:49 GMT
Article-I.D.: verdix.9249
Organization: Verdix Western Operations, Aloha  OR

In article <1992Dec13.090045.22759@pasteur.Berkeley.EDU> wolo@cory.Berkeley.EDU (Greg Wolodkin) writes:
>Greetings - 
>
>Having put together an immersion wort chiller from 25' of copper 
>tubing several weeks ago, I noticed the following: 
>
>    1) the copper tubing oxidizes when not in use.. when it comes
>       time to use it, it looks fairly dull and brownish, like 
>       most copper pipes do.
>
>    2) After chilling the wort, the copper comes out gleaming.


It's a malt extract!

No, it's a copper polish!

It's BOTH!!!
-------------------------

hee hoo hrk ack...sorry...
--Mark
"Mmmm, makes great tasting beer...and just look at that shine!"
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Subject: Re: Gleaming immersion chiller
Keywords: should I worry? ;-)
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean  VA
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 17:41:56 GMT

In article <1992Dec14.214830.7877@news.nd.edu>
 ulick@michaelangelo.helios.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford) writes:

>>In article <1992Dec13.090045.22759@pasteur.Berkeley.EDU>
>> wolo@cory.Berkeley.EDU (Greg Wolodkin) writes:

>>>Having put together an immersion wort chiller from 25' of copper 
>>>tubing several weeks ago, I noticed the following: 
>>>
>>>    1) the copper tubing oxidizes when not in use.. when it comes
>>>       time to use it, it looks fairly dull and brownish, like 
>>>       most copper pipes do.
>>>
>>>    2) After chilling the wort, the copper comes out gleaming.
>
>This would worry me.  I have a copper tube that never changes color when
>I use it to chill my wort.  It stays a dull oxidized color.  If I were 
>you I'd check the pH of my water.  It sounds incredibly soft and acidity
>could be way too low.  Copper will give off flavor at a certain level, but
>really shouldn't dissolve into beer.

While I don't know about the oxides in your beer, any copper released in 
your wort is likely to be absorbed (used??) by the yeast, according to 
previous posts on the subject of copper in the wort.

John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own
Fidonet:  1:109/131  Internet:  jdecarlo@mitre.org
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Brewpubs in Champaign, IL
From: ebs@lilly.com (Eric B. Stauffer)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 17:08:12 GMT
Distribution: NA,local
Organization: Eli Lilly and Company

I will be in Champaign, IL over Christmas and would like to know of any nice 
pubs/brewpubs worth a visit.		

Cheers,
   Eric
+------------------------------------+
| Eric B. Stauffer                   |
| Eli Lilly & Comapny                |
| Indianapolis, IN 46285             |
| (317) 276-1833                     |
| E-Mail: ebs@lilly.com              |
+------------------------------------+
From: "kevin mandoske" <kevin.mandoske@execnet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: sweet ale
Date: 11 Dec 92 19:28:08 EST
Reply-To: "kevin mandoske" <kevin.mandoske@execnet.com>
Distribution: rec
Organization: Executive Networks Information

Can anyone provide me with a recipe for an Ale which has a very malty and 
a bit on the sweet side taste.  I'm looking for something similar to 
Grant's Scottish Ale.

---
  WinQwk 2.0b#619  Never judge a man by his taglines.
--
Executive Network Information System  (914) 667-4567
International ILink Host
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: bianco@aesc.cs.odu.edu (David J. Bianco)
Subject: Re: Beginning Brewer
Organization: Old Dominion University, Norfolk, VA, USA
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 17:06:47 GMT

In article <724402575.F00001@tdkt.kksys.com> Ewan.Grantham@f62.n282.z1.tdkt.kksys.com (Ewan Grantham) writes:

   Bought my first home-setup this past Saturday from a local homebrew shop, 
   spent about an hour figuring out what everything does (Documentation of 
   their kit left a little to be desired), and then started my first batch 
   that evening - Amber Ale. My main concern is that according to the 
   directions, I should bottle next week (no big deal) and leave at around 
   70F, and then I gather I should move the bottles to a 50F area for three 
   weeks. The problem is - no 50F area. Our basement is finished and heated. 
   What will the effect of the higher temp. be? Would I be better off putting 
   bottles in shed outdoors (20-30F here in Minnesota)?
I wouldn't worry about that too much.  If you don't have any way to create
the low temps, don't.  The beer will still be good, even if you use
lager yeast.  Lager yeast is great for low temperature lagering (aging)
but it does work at higher temperatures and you're not lagering long
anyway.  20-30F is probably too cold, though.  You don't want to freeze 
the stuff! 8)  That's a whole different type of beer...


   One other thing, from my reading, I gather that yeast in the bottom of the 
   bottle is inevitable. Is it? How do the commercial breweries and 
   microbreweries avoid this?
They filter the yeast out during bottling, but it's not practical
for most homebrewers.  The yeast helps to carbonate the beer once
it's been bottled, so you want some there at that stage.  When you're
ready to drink it, it's relativly easy to pour the beer so that the
yeast stays in the bottom of the bottle...

--
===============================================================================
David J. Bianco 			Systems Dude & Part time Illusionist
Old Dominion University    			<bianco@cs.odu.edu>
Dept of Computer Science,		"BORGer King:  We do it our way.
Norfolk, VA 23529			 Your way is irrelevant..."
===============================================================================
From: arthur@sgi.com (Arthur Evans)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: sweet ale
Date: 17 Dec 92 23:59:39 GMT
Reply-To: arthur@chiba.esd.sgi.com (Arthur Evans)
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc.

In article <1992Dec14.130417.1@vaxb.acs.unt.edu> atkinson@vaxb.acs.unt.edu writes:
>>Can anyone provide me with a recipe for an Ale which has a very malty and
>>a bit on the sweet side taste. I'm looking for something similar to
>>Grant's Scottish Ale
>
>Try the "Sun Has Left Us On Time Steam Beer" in Papazian's "New Complete Joy".
>Although I've never had Grant's, your very brief description sounds like this
>very good steam beer.

Hm.  I haven't had Grant's in a while, and I've never brewed
Papazian's steam beer, but just from the names I would expect
these to be quite different styles.  When I think of a steam
beer, I think of an amber beer with a fair amount of sweetness
balanced by a generous amount of hop bitterness, and with 
pronounced hop character in the finish.

The Scottish ales I'm familar with have expressed more malty
sweetness, and less hop character.  Coincidentally, I just 
brewed an ale last night based on Miller's "Scotch Ale" recipe,
which is supposed to make something like one of the stronger
Scottish ales.

The actual ingredients I used (based on availability) were:

1 lb. 20 degree crystal malt
6 oz. chocolate malt 

6.1 lbs John Bull pale plain British malt extract syrup
0.5 lbs plain dried malt extract
2 1/4 oz. Fuggles hops (about 9 AAUs--recipe called for 8, 
	   		but then I also used a bit more malt).
1 lb. dark brown sugar

I steeped the specialty grains for about 25 minutes in 5 gallons 
of water, at about 150-160F, then removed them.  Then I brought 
the proto-wort to a boil, the malt extract, hops, and sugar, and
boiled for 50 minutes or so.  No finishing hops.

Cooled to 75F, and pitched with a 1 pint starter of Wyeast British
Ale yeast (is that 1098?  heck if I know).

O.G. was 1059, and the wort tasted great.  

Anyway, if you're trying to replicate a strong Scottish ale, you
might want something like this.  The source recipe is from Dave 
Miller's "Brewing the World's Great Beers," or whatever it's called.

OK
arthur
From: schaker@carina.unm.edu (Stefan Yen Chakerian)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: COMPUSENET DEC 10
Date: 15 Dec 92 20:38:38 GMT
Followup-To: alt.test
Organization: University of New Mexico

In article <9255@verdix.verdix.com> mark@verdix.com (Mark Lundquist) writes:
>In article <1992Dec14.124545.1@vaxb.acs.unt.edu> atkinson@vaxb.acs.unt.edu writes:
>>
>>>perhaps there is something that we could all put in our .sig files
>>>that would prohibit it being reposted on CI$
>>
>>If we attach the following rider, it seems that commercial services
>>will either not reproduce the rec.crafts.brewing postings since
>>honoring our rider would cause violations of their ban,
>>
>>"This Posting is hereby placed in the public domain, and may be
>>copied (manually or electronicly) freely from any location,
>>including commercial services which have made copies".

Placing it in the public domain gives them specific permission to
do what they want with it.  I can take any PD code, not modify it
one iota, and sell it.  In fact, it does just the opposite of your
intention.  In addition, I may store all such postings on a machine
and NOT allow you to copy it from my computer, contrary to your
rider.  I may delete or ignore your rider, because it is in the
public domain.

What you want is a copyright.  If you wish to register all your
postings with the copyright office, that will prevent Compusever [sic]
from posting your article legally.  Otherwise, unless it's computer
code, it ain't copyrighted.  Check out the gnu copyleft.

>I say let's drop it.
> [various very good reasons omitted]

If you make $10/hr for a job that's only worth $5/hr, and you find
out your coworker is making $20/hr, does that mean you're getting
shorted?  Hell no.  It means they're getting a deal.  Who cares?
You're getting a deal, too.  What someone else gets has no bearing
on what you're getting.

				stef

This article is NOT copyrighted.  It is in the public domain.
Copuserve or any other rip-off service may archive this and feed it
to their rich, naive, or both subscribers.  I hope they make
$1,000,000.36 off it, too, and congrats because I didn't think of
starting up such a service first.
-- 
    _---_     Stefan Chakerian
   / o o \    schaker@triton.unm.edu, schaker@unmb.bitnet
  | \___/ |   
   \_____/    Winners don't lose drugs.