HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: shc1@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (culp,steven)
Subject: Re: Need advice : what about Cambridge for e-mail order ?
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: rec
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 92 14:39:18 GMT

In article <MOREAUX.92Nov23143601@litsun22.epfl.ch> moreaux@litsun22.epfl.ch (Michel Moreaux) writes:
>
>I plan to buy a large format camera. I decided to deal with Cambridge for
>the buying of the lenses. When reading this newsgroup, I have found a lot of
>people having trouble with Cambridge. Is it really a pain in the ... to treat
>with them ? Is there any valuable alternative ?
>

Michael,

let me tell you my experience with Cambridge.  Several months ago I ordered
several thousand dollars of equipment from them.  I was constantly lied to,
they told me my equipment was in stock when it wasn't, later they told me it
had been shipped when it hadn't (I asked them for the UPS shipper number and
their computer suddenly went down; I found their computer went down at the
most opportune times for them.)

I also called to see if they had a particular lens in stock.  Their computer
went down.  They told me to call back in an hour.  An hour and a half later,
their computer was still down.  They told me to call back first thing in
the morning.  At 8:30 the next morning, I called back.  They told me to
call back after 9:00 (their compouter didn't come up until 9:00, supposedly).
At 9:15 they told me to call back after 1:00.  At 3:00 they told me to call
back the next day.  Two days later their computer was still down!

I eventually did receive everything I ordered, but in my opinion, the amount
of money I saved was definately NOT worth the hassle and frustration I had
to go through.  I cannot, NOT recommend these guys enough.

Steve.
From: 6500rick@ucsbuxa.ucsb.edu (Richard J. Bessey)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Idiot mistakes II: results
Date: 18 Nov 92 03:46:36 GMT
Distribution: rec

Thanks for the replies.  (I responded to those I received,
and thanks Jimmy, I just read yours.)

I processed the film as usual and the pictures came out fine - 
with the exception of the last two shots.  Those of course got
the direct light.

By the way.  Someone asked me if I had a Canon EOS.  Some run the
film the other way so that you can open the back of the camera
as many times as you want (presumably to see if the film is still 
there) and it won't hurt the pictures you've already taken because
they are rolled in the film canister.      (It's been a long day.)

Some of the Canons have this option, but not the ELAN, which
is what I use.

Thanks for the replies.

Rick


Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jpglori@srv.PacBell.COM (John P. Gloria)
Subject: Re: putting photos on a wall.. (?)
Organization: Pacific * Bell
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 17:14:58 GMT

In article <Bxq0Jp.G5G@cs.dal.ca> graham@ug.cs.dal.ca (Michael Graham) writes:
>I want to put a whole bunch of my B&W 8x10's and 5x7's on my *plaster*
>wall. Is there a way to do this without ruining the photos or the wall?
>
>2 way tape? Is there anything else? Does the tape come off the photos?
>
>thanks
>mike
>-- 
>**************************************************************************
>Bjork sounds so good, that if I were a singer trying to make a living today    
>I'd shoot myself in desperation of ever equalling her  -  Barbara Ellen, NME

Not to be a smart-ass, but why don't you frame the pictures?
Afterall, that is the normal way, at least for me, when I
want to put my pictures up on the wall.
-- 
  ---------  John Gloria - jpglori@sysengr.pacbell.com	--------	
"I do not think that winning is the most important thing. 
I think winning is the only thing."    - Bill Veeck
From: madler@vssad.enet.dec.com (Michael C. Adler)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: CC equivalents
Date: 23 Nov 92 16:22:46 GMT
Reply-To: madler@vssad.enet.dec.com (Michael C. Adler)
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation


Does anyone know the CC equivalents (Kodak units) of common black and
white filters?  I'm most interested in various shades of yellow and
the red filter (25A).  Any other normal colors you may know would be
useful as well.

I'm sure I can make guesses by eye but I'd rather be more accurate.

Thank you,
-Michael
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: myellam@eng.clemson.edu (fluteman)
Subject: Eyepiece for Minolta Himatic C
Reply-To: myellam@eng.clemson.edu
Organization: College of Engineering, Clemson Univ.
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 16:57:49 GMT






Hi, 

	I have Minolta Himatic C.  The eyepiece (Viewfinder) for the camera has become
foggy as moisture had seeped into it once.  I am looking for replacement for the eyepiece / or any suggestions that one might have, since the model and spares are out of manufacture., e.g. 

i.  Would a cleaning kit help.  The local camera shop owner has told me that it is not
possible to clean it(it is a very old stain).

ii.  It is possible that somebody has model which they are not using for whatever reason, and would be willing to part with it.

iii.  Address/tel # of any place which carries such inventory.

iv. It is good for nothing else except a paper weight.

thanks

please reply to
myellam@eng.clemson.edu
(murali)

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: geoff@pmafire.inel.gov (Geoff Allen)
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 92 18:26:50 GMT
Organization: Roller Coaster fanatic with no hope for a cure
Subject: Re: Camera Feature Wars - Photo Getting Like Video
Summary: 
Followup-To: 
Organization: Roller Coaster fanatic with no hope for a cure
Keywords: 

dbernard@clesun.Central.Sun.COM writes:
>newer features don't necessarily
>make taking good pictures easier; what they do is allow pictures to be taken
>faster.

I think this is the best comment of the real value of whiz-bang features
I've ever read.

Geoff "I'll take mine slowly, thank you, well, most of the time anyway" Allen

-- 
Geoff Allen          \ It's an art, a craft, a science and, perhaps most of
uunet!pmafire!geoff   \ all, a damnable obsession.  But a most fulfilling one.
geoff@pmafire.inel.gov \      -- Barry Sherman on photography
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: imprint@watserv1.uwaterloo.ca (IMPRINT -- UW's Student Newspaper)
Subject: Re: Setting up a darkroom...
Keywords: fogging, developers, darkroom, old enlargers
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 17:52:38 GMT

In article <1992Nov16.225959.6900@craycos.com>, sog@craycos.com (Steve Gombosi) writes:

> 
> >On to the chemistry side of my questions.
> >  I purchased a gallon bottle of Ilford Universal Paper Developer and a
> >half-gallon of Ilford Universal Fixer.  When I purchased the enlarger, the
> >seller tossed in some old chemistry.  While I don't plan on using the old
> >dektol/d-76, etc, there was a bottle of kodak indicator stop bath.  Since
> >this is mostly acetic acid and an acidity indicator of some sort, I don't
> >figure it would go bad.  My question is:  Will this work with the Ilford
> >chemicals I am using, or will I need to shell out a few bucks for the
> >genuine Ilford chemie?  (or can I be cheap and use a water stop?)
> 
> Go ahead and use the Indicator Stop. You need to be *sure* that development 
> has stopped before you fix, if you don't you'll get staining. Some people
> have good luck with a water stop, but I just don't trust it (especially since
> the developer concentration in the water will increase as you process - unless
> you change the water frequently). I use Ilford paper developer, Kodak Indicator
> Stop, and Kodafix. It works fine.

Well, all stop bath does is neutralize developer, whereas a water bath 
simply attempts to leach developer from the print.  The fix is an acid
as well, and can likely neutralize any developer that remains after the
water bath.  Another plus to a water bath between dev. and fix. is that
there's one less chemical to wash out of the print.
	And unless you're using that special paper (can't remember the
name of it) that will keep developing until it's black, there's no
real need to have development stopped instantly.

> 
> >
> >  Thanks-
> >   Dann
> >
> >P.S. Should I leave the ground glass in the enlarger, or should I take it
> >out?  What's the advantage either way?  Thanks.
> 
> It's probably there to diffuse the illumination a bit - it's possible 
> you may get uneven exposures without it. 
> I'd leave it in.

- Dave


-- 

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: ka1gt@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (robert.m.atkins)
Subject: Re: Advice on Canon 50 mm/f1.8 wanted
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 19:46:02 GMT

In article <1992Nov16.235617.1@cc.curtin.edu.au>, zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au writes:
> In article <1992Nov11.160234.23567@kth.se>, d90-nsc@nada.kth.se (Niclas Schopenhauer) writes:
> > 
> > 
> >    I am considering buying a 50 mm lens for my Canon 100 (Elan in the US, I
> > believe). However, since the only 50 mm lens by Canon on the market (not counting
> > the 50/f1.0) belongs to the II series which, I am told, have bad optical quality,
> > I'm considering buying a second-hand copy of the old 50 mm f/1.8.
> > 
> 
> I have a 50 f1.8 that I picked out of 5-6 second hand a 3 new IIs. The early
> unit is of better build quality opticaly, though that may no longer be the case.
> The II is a bit faster focusing, but nothing like a USM. The *BIG* loss on the
> II is no focus scale, and no IR focus index.
> 

For what it's worth, Popular Photography have tested both the original 50/1.8
and the new plastic 50/1.8. The new plastic bodied lens actually tested out
optically better than the original metal(?) bodied lens. Of course they only
test one sample of each lens, so statistical variations may account for the
difference. I thought the optical design was the same - or am I wrong?


===============================================================
Bob Atkins  AT&T Bell Labs  email (direct)  att!clockwise!rma
===============================================================
From: asmall2@mach1.wlu.ca (alastair small 9209 G)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Medium Format Questions
Date: 20 Nov 92 14:38:35 GMT
Organization: Wilfrid Laurier University
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]

alastair small 9209 G (asmall2@mach1.wlu.ca) wrote:
: 
[stuff deleted]

This should have read as follows:

Having never done any m-format before I was hoping for some info regarding
which films to use. What I'm really after is the types of processing that
are available i.e. if I use negative film will the processor make contact
prints, or regular size prints (I realize that this is probably lab
dependant, but what seems to be the norm. If I use transparency film, do
they mount the slides at request only, or is this part of the processing
fee? What range of prices should I expect to pay (Toronto Labs)

[stuff deleted]

: Cheers,
: 
: +--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
: |	Alastair J. Small						   |
: |	Department of Geography		Tel: (519) 884-1970 Ext. 2040      |
: |	Wilfrid Laurier University	Fax: (519) 884-8853		   |
: |	Waterloo, Ontario, N2L 3C5	Email:	asmall2@mach1.wlu.ca	   |
: |	CANADA								   |
: +--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
 AJS
From: kting@cse.unl.edu (Kea Ting)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: bulk loading 35mm questions
Date: 19 Nov 1992 22:57:21 GMT
Organization: University of Nebraska--Lincoln	
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: cse.unl.edu

jk0j@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (JOHN KISH) writes:

>I am considering bulk loading 35mm film for the first time and have a few
>questions.  It seems to me there is no reason to buy a bulk loader.  Why not
>just spool the film on the cassette in the dark?  It would take a little
>practice to judge when there is enough film to make a 36 exp. roll, but not
>impossible.

    With the bulk loader, the job is much easier. One bulk loader can last
for ever if you take care of it. Beside that you will never have to worried
the finger prints on the film.
 

>How does bulk loading work with auto loading cameras?  I'm using a Canon T-90.
> Will the leader have to be cut very closely to emulate the leader on factory lo
>aded film?

    Just get a factory loaded film's leader, follow the sample and do the
cutting, you will be pretty close. As long as the shape of the leader not
 off too far,it will be fine.

> rewind?  Will it keep shooting till the film stops?  Is this hard on the
> camera?

On my minolta 7000i, it shoot until the film stop. It does not create any 
problem so far.

    
> What kind of tape is recommended to tape the film to the spool?

   Try to use tape that is stronger than the 'clear and thin tape'
 on the market. When you tape the film to the spool, make sure the camera
motor will not pull loose the tape at the end of the roll.
     One seggestion, try to get a factory loaded film and have that as a 
sample, see which side the film emultion is facing .... etc.
    Good luck.





--
soon

University Of                  Disclaimer :
Nebraska-Lincoln               I always speak for myself.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: mas@mipl8.jpl.nasa.gov (Marc Sarrel)
Subject: Arkay Print Dryer Question
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory
Distribution: rec
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1992 20:08:59 GMT

I bought an Arkay Print Dryer (Model F-15C, 265 Watts) at a garage
sale recently.  It's one of those models that looks sort of like a
clamshell.  It has two canvas flaps which hold the prints against the
hot surface.

Anyway, I was previously under the impression that these style dryers
had a shiny metal surface.  The idea being that if you want high
gloss, put the print face down on the metal, otherwise, put it face
up.

However, this dryer has a paper coating stuck down on the shiny metal.
Can/should I remove it?  What's it there for?
--
Marc Sarrel			"She's got a big boyfriend
Jet Propulsion Laboratory	 A really big boyfriend
mas@mipl8.jpl.nasa.gov		 He lifts weights, he builds cars
                                 And he's got no sense of humor
                                 She's got a big, really big
                                 Really, really, really big boyfriend"
                                                     -Blotto
From: liang@saul.cis.upenn.edu (Chuck Liang)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Major advances in camera technology (was Re: Camera Feature Wars - Photo Getting Like Video)
Date: 23 Nov 92 20:17:42 GMT
Organization: University of Pennsylvania

In article <1992Nov23.174512.5137@leland.Stanford.EDU> prodger@leland.Stanford.EDU (phillip prodger) writes:
>In article <1epaliINN69m@talon.UCS.ORST.EDU> monson@hobo.ECE.ORST.EDU (Ty Monson) writes:
>>
>> To address the question of why most major technologies were developed in
>> the 50's and 60's:
>>  This observation results from ignoring developments outside that time
>>  frame.
>>  
>>  As the original list indicated, important innovations came along
>>  in the 30' and 40's. The original list excluded all innovations prior to
>>  1930. That ignores some *very* important advances in photography


  If you had read the original list more carefully, I was refering to
35mm camera technology.

















Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: tonyp@cs.umr.edu (Tony Phillips)
Subject: Service Bureaus making Slides
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 17:03:10 GMT
Organization: University of Missouri - Rolla
Originator: tonyp@mcs213j.cs.umr.edu

What's a normal price for Service Bureaus to make slides from computer 
graphic images?


-- 
|  Tony Phillips-  University of Missouri CS Dept.  |  Programming: A noun   |
|                                                   |  meaning 'The Art of   |
|  Reply to:  tonyp@cs.umr.edu                      |  debugging a blank     |
|  Prefered Address:  S102066@UMRVMA.UMR.EDU        |  sheet of paper'       |
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: mhoesing@cwis.unomaha.edu (Michael Hoesing)
Subject: Re: Vericolor and refrigeration myth Debunked Was: How to keep expired ...
Organization: University of Nebraska at Omaha
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 04:16:47 GMT

chuck@drutx.ATT.COM (LucianoC) writes:

>In article <27544@oasys.dt.navy.mil> goldberg@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Mark Goldberg) writes:
>>In rec.photo, dtang@bass.bu.edu (yunfei zhang) writes:
>>
>>I was also concerned about this issue.  I keep a lot of Vericolor pro
>>film around.  Vericolor has a shorter "life" than other films and is
>>supposed to be refrigerated.  I have heard pros and cons about the freezer,
>>so I called the Professional Markets division of Eastman Kodak.

>I had a very detailed discussion with a Kodak rep about Vericolor films and
>refrigeration. It seems that when Kodak produces consumer films they plan
>on a certain amount of shift in color balance over time. They design the film
>so the optimum balance is reached after about 3 months. 3 months is about the
>average time from when the film is manufactured until it is processed.

>Vericolor is designed to be at the optimum color balance when is produced. It
>then must be refrigerated to keep it there for as long as possible. The key
>question I asked the rep was, "Is there anything about vericolor films that 
>make them age faster or more dramatically then consumer films", the answer,
>"No". 

 Do you have any idea on how long it is good for when refrigerated?  I have
about half of a bulk roll left over after a trip to Germany, and wanted
to know whether I should toss it, or if it still might be good.
The people at the store said that it should be kept under a certain
temperature if at all possible, and never above that temperature for
very long.  I think that they were being a little too far on the safe
side, as 13 rolls survived about four days in 80degree temperatures in
Berlin with no bad results (VERY good results actually, color was about
as perfect as anyone could want).
 
 Thanks.
From: bjs@RUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Barry Sherman)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Ilfochrome prints in a Jobo CPE-2 Plus?
Keywords: cibachrome, ilfochrome, jobo
Date: 17 Nov 92 20:00:49 GMT
Reply-To: bjs@RUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Barry Sherman)
Followup-To: rec.photo
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

Matt Nelson writes:

>So.  Has anybody out there ever done Ilfochrome prints (formerly Cibachrome)
>in a Jobo CPE-2 Plus processor?  The Cibachrome book sez that one should not
>exceed 35 rpm during processing, but the CPE-2 Plus has only one speed:
>70 rpm.  I like the idea of doing film developing in a Jobo, but dont want
>to plop down the bucks if I cant do Ilfochrome in it...
>
>Anybody?  Anybody?

No, I've not done it in a CPE-2.  But, as usual, I'll certainly not let that
stop me from shooting off my mouth!  :-)  I've been using a CPP with variable
rotation speeds with rotation set to ~22 rpm because the Ilford literature
on P-3 chemistry recommends an even lower rotation speed than that recommended 
for P-30 chemistry.   (I've been much happier with my results using P-3 
one-shot than I was using P-30 "partial re-use".)

Anyway, the two things which could be a problem with over-agitation, which
is what we're really talking about here, are over-development with 
resultant greater contrast and uneven development due to the developer
being thrown towards the ends of the tube.

I would think that that any density or color shifts caused by the higher
rotation speed would be correctable in exposing.  Contrast increase, which
would be quite likely, can be corrected by masking.  (BTW - I'm increasingly
convinced that masking is required if one is to have even reasonable control
over the Ilfochrome material - even given the existence of the low-contrast
stuff.)

But uneven development caused by the high rotation speed tossing the developer
toward the ends of the drums is, to me, an imponderable.  Well, not really.
I can certainly ponder it at great length but I lack information to form
an opinion.  I'd be very hesitant to make the purchase without definitive
information and, preferably, a hands-on trial.

Any chance at all of getting the CPA-2 instead?

Barry

--


|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Barry Sherman, Amdahl Corp.  | PROGRAM: n. A magic spell cast over a com-  |
| bjs@ruts.ccc.amdahl.com      | puter allowing it to turn one's input into  |
|                              | error messages.  tr.v. To engage in a pas-  |
|                              | time similar to banging one's head against  |
|                              | a wall, but with fewer opportunities for    |
|                              | reward.                                     |
|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Amdahl, being a corporation, is a legal fiction.  Therefore it is incapable|
| of holding, let alone expressing, opinions.  Unfortunately, this has been  |
| said of me as well.                                                        |
|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
Organisation: European Space Operation Centre (E.S.O.C)
Date: Tuesday, 17 Nov 1992 01:57:11 CET
From: <KCHAN@ESOC.BITNET>
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Advice on Canon 50 mm/f1.8 wanted
 <1992Nov13.012756.12780@dartvax.dartmouth.edu>

In article <1992Nov13.012756.12780@dartvax.dartmouth.edu>,
Jimmy.Tung@dartmouth.edu (Jimmy Tung) says:
>
>I agree it's a good, solid lens.  But it's suspiciouslly
>nonmetallic-like (maybe anodized aluminium?) compared to the old FD
 !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!        !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Wow!! Is aluminium a plastic?

-----
Khee Chan
PROFS: esoc(kchan)   BITNET/EARN: kchan@esoc   SPAN: jplsp::kchan
INTERNET: kchan@jplsp.jpl.nasa.gov             COMPUSERVE: 73750,1402
I speak for no-one, and no-one speaks for me, sometimes not even myself!
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: markt@cup.hp.com (Mark Thompson)
Subject: Flash Meter Recomendation
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 17:34:08 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1scd1 PL4

I am setting up some portable studio equiptment and need recomendations on
a budget priced flash meter.  

Mark
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: dtj@caffeine.cray.com (Dean Johnson)
Subject: Re: 80-200/f2.8 for $$$, why?
Originator: dtj@caffeine
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 19 Nov 92 15:15:47 CST


In article <1992Nov19.035957.3597@walter.bellcore.com>, jchen@wind.bellcore.com (Jason Chen) writes:

> 
> But then, I am no pro. There must be reasons for the popularity of the
> 80-200/f2.8 lens. What are they?
> 

I shoot polo (damn horses keep drowning! ;-)) a bunch and the stop would 
definitely be worth the money. Besides, with a f2.8 lens you can probably
put a 2x teleconverter on it and still have the auto-everything still work,
a definite plus.

	-Dean
Newsgroups: rec.photo