HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: Ecology Center Fund <ecologycntr@igc.apc.org>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Date: 14 Aug 92 17:21 PDT
Subject: Re: HELP ME! California Redwood
Nf-ID: #R:olivea.atc.olivetti.com:55701:cdp:1453300073:000:1158
Nf-From: cdp.UUCP!ecologycntr    Aug 14 17:21:00 1992


Your english is much better than my italian, Massimo! :)

They are probably Sequoia sempervirens.  That is the tree that is native to the
Big Basin area.  It is also called the Coast Redwood.  The Sierra redwood,
or big tree, Sequoiadendron giganteum, is less widespread, and grows only in
small groves in the Sierra Nevada (a hundred or so miles inland.)  The Coast
Redwood grows in a huge belt along the coast from San Simeon to southern
Oregon.

Coast Redwood : up to 300 ft tall (tallest known specimen), thinner than
Sierra Redwood, leaves 1.25 cm - 3 cm long, flat, dark green to blue.  Bark
reddish.  Grows best in cool, moist areas, protected from hard frosts.  After
establishment, young trees can grow 6-8 feet per year.

Sierra Redwood: up to 250 ft tall, more massive than Coast Redwood.  Leaves
short, awl-like, arranged on branchlets in a scaly pattern.  Color of leaves
usuallyblue-green.  Needs less water than Coast Redwood.  Less tolerant of
constant moisture (a fungal disease called Botryosphaerium can kill whole
branches in cool, moist areas) and more tolerant of frost.  Wood much less
commercially valuable than Coast Redwood.

Chris

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: kk@mcnc.org (Krzysztof A. Kozminski)
Subject: Re: Dawn Redwoods & Sequoias
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC
Distribution: usa
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1992 04:34:23 GMT

In article <1992Aug14.190121.21444@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> crussel@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Carol A Russell) writes:
>All this talk on the net about Dawn Redwoods, et.al. has reminded me of a 
>question that I wanted to ask several months ago.  There was a discussion going
>about where to buy sequoias, dawn redwoods and similar trees - but as I 
>remember, no one mentioned any catalog sources for them.  Does any one know of 
>any mail order sources for these trees?

	Camellia Forest Nursery
	125 Carolina Forest Road
	Chapel Hill, NC 27516
	(919)-967-5529

They have Dawn Redwood sedlings (about 1.5 ft tall) and a couple other
interesting conifers - with Glyptostrobus pensilis (quite similar to
the dawn redwood, at least when young, and faster growing) and
Cunninghamia lanceolata (chinese fir) being my personal favorites.
Cunninghamia is particularly neat - with a spiny trunk a bit like
araucaria (monkey puzzle).  Also a number of various cryptomerias.

J.Hudson (see the FAQ list for address) has redwood seeds.  They are
fairly easy to germinate - I got 5 out of 10 growing, with no fuss
whatsoever - dumped them in jiffy pellets and waited and that's it.
(actually, 7 germinated, but something ate two of them :-(

KK
-- 
"Legalize freedom.  Vote libertarian"
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: pharvey@mipos3.intel.com (Paul Harvey)
Subject: Re: ORGANIC lawn care???
Organization: Intel Corporation, Santa Clara, CA USA
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 20:54:22 GMT

In article <keXz6jm00Uh7Q3ZlR5@andrew.cmu.edu> 
sh4d+@andrew.cmu.edu (Sandra J. Harris) writes:
>Does anyone know of an organic treatment for lawns?  My grass is in dire
>need of treatment - it's full of clover, dandelions, lots of
>unidentified weeds, and some grass.....

Sounds like a good lawn. Clover looks nice and makes nitrogen and digs its
roots deep into the soil. Dandelion (Dent de lion, lions teeth) is one of the 
first flowers of spring and makes good greens, (Arugula), and wine. Some of 
those weeds are probably natives. See if you can grow chickweed, oxalis and 
purslane, they are fine edibles. Don't harvest too much though because you
need seeds so they will reseed themselves. If you are lucky, you may get 
mushrooms in spring, but don't eat them unless you get an expert id.

>IMPORTANT:  I have dogs and want them to be able to do their normal
>things in the yard, including "grazing" as they often do.
>Any SAFE products on the market?

The best product to buy with your extra money is called GNMAE Bond Fund, it
returns near 8% interest. Other than that, cut the lawn high and leave the
clippings on the lawn, the dogs and the plants will love it.

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: clarke@watson.ibm.com (Ed Clarke)
Subject: Re: Sudden Death of Snapdragons
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 15:50:11 GMT
Distribution: na
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Researc

In article <1992Aug12.220956.25848@cbnews.cb.att.com>, gwb@cbnews.cb.att.com (gregory.blum) writes:
|> Gave them a rather small amount of Ortho time release fertilizer (not really
                                      ^^^^^
Well well well ............................

|> great, until about two weeks ago.  Then, rather oddly, overnight (quite
|> literally), big healthy beds of snapdragons would more or less instantly
|> die.  One day masses of green plants and bright flowers..... the next day

These are the guys who contaminated their "Organic" soap with herbicide.
Guess what happened to the gardens of the people who used the soap ....
Perhaps they're not careful about cleaning their production lines when
switching from one product to another.  Sounds like you got the same
thing.  "Organic Gardening" has had quite a few articles about this in
the past year.  I think that I saw something in this months issue; will
look for it at lunch time.

Ed Clarke
clarke@watson.ibm.com
From: jhb@calmasd.prime.com (Jim Bishop)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Hummingbird-like insect?
Date: 14 Aug 92 05:54:28 GMT
Organization: -

In article <spears.54@bobcat.lmc.edu>, spears@bobcat.lmc.edu 
(Gene Spears) writes:
> 
> "Sphinx Moth", or "Hawkmoth" or "Hummingbird Moth" are common names for an 
> entire family of moths, the Sphingidae.  

In case you've never seen a sphinx moth, there is a picture of one in
August issue of _American Horticulturist_.  The caption says, "A
white-lined sphinx moth gathers pollen from a zinnia".  The
corresponding article is called "Sex Partners, Flowers and their
animal pollinators have some of the strangest relationships in
nature".  Not much in the article on the moths except that they have
found an orchid with 16 inch long nectary which implies there also
exists a moth with an equally long proboscis.  Hope they find it soon
the orchid is in Madagascar.

Jim
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: colombo@bronco.fnal.gov
Subject: Re: Yukky compost heap
Organization: Fermilab Computing Division
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 16:58:57 GMT

In article <1992Aug10.124436.15717@doc.ic.ac.uk>, eaa@doc.ic.ac.uk (Liz Attree) writes:
> 
> 
> This has been my first year at attempting a proper compost heap, and I
> think I have already made some fundamental mistakes with it.  Firstly, 
> I think I made the mistake of buying the cheapest compost bin on the market
> which is fairly flimsy plastic and I have found it needs various bricks and 
> bits to try and support it in a uniform shape and keep the lid on.  I started 
> it off nearly a year ago and put all last autumn's garden rubbish on it 
> (of which there was plenty) - old trimmed down Michaelmas daisies, annuals, 
> leaves from the trees etc, and since put all uncooked kitchen waste like 
> tea bags and fruit and potato peelings etc.  The trouble with it is it just 
> looks like a wet, slimy, sludgy heap, which when I remove the lid about a 
> million tiny flies rise out of it and the whole thing stinks.  I have read 
> quite a bit in this group lately about anaerobic compost heaps - do you think 
> that is what I have ended up with?  Investigating the bottom of the heap, 
> there is a tiny amount of compost with some lovely red worms in, but it is 
> still mainly identifiable bits of last year's garden.  I can't turn it out and
> rake through all the rough stuff due to my garden being really small and 
> having a very young child that would love to play in all that muck.  Surely,
> however revolting it all looks like now, it will rot down eventually,
> won't it??????


As mentioned before, the plastic bins don't allow enough air to circulate.
I used old *skids* for the back/sides/front (the front are removable) of
my compost pile and of course it's completely open on top.  I have set it
up with two sections, with a short skid as a divider.  The compost pile
is on one side at a time and I flip the pile from one side to the other
every two weeks or so.  And yes, it does need water.  Also, there is a
product on the market that you add to the water that facilitates the
compost action, use as directed.  Hope this helps.

 ___________________________________________________________________________
 *****  *   *  From the e-net desk of: Rick Colombo CD/DCD/DSG    *    *
 *      **  *  Fermi Nat'l Acc'l Lab   708-840-8225 Fermilab     * *   *
 ***    * * *  P.O. Box 500   MS 369   Feynman Computer Center  *****  *
 *      *  **  Batavia, Ill. USA 60510 Colombo@fnal.fnal.gov    *   *  *****
 *  Sure to get `Flamed' if I didn't cross all my i's and dot all my t's ;-)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: crussel@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Carol A Russell)
Subject: Dawn Redwoods & Sequoias
Organization: The Ohio State University
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 19:01:21 GMT

All this talk on the net about Dawn Redwoods, et.al. has reminded me of a 
question that I wanted to ask several months ago.  There was a discussion going
about where to buy sequoias, dawn redwoods and similar trees - but as I 
remember, no one mentioned any catalog sources for them.  Does any one know of 
any mail order sources for these trees?

Thanks much.

Carol Russell
crussel@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: krogers@javelin.sim.es.com (K. Rogers)
Subject: Re: Pond Building
Reply-To: krogers@javelin.sim.es.com
Organization: Evans & Sutherland Computer Corp., Salt Lake City, Utah
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 15:22:05 GMT

sjane@bmers248.bnr.ca (sjs) writes:

>>PVC is out and EPDM is in.
> 
>Argh.  What does EPDM stand for?  And why is it "in"?  I thought butyl
>liners were the best because they stretch more easily, eliminating bumps
>and wrinkles, and because they are strong enough to withstand pets and
>racoons and whatnot.

You should be aware the EPDM is controversially "in".  You have to
make very very sure you get a particular kind which hasn't been
treated in some way.  Yeah, I know, I'm fuzzy on the details, but I've
read over and over about people getting the wrong kind of EPDM and
having to take it out again.  I don't know what advantages EPDM liners
have over butyl ones to tempt you to use one.  Maybe someone else can
fill us in on it?  Unless they're God's gift to pond builders I think
I'd just stick with butyl liners.

BTW, I've forgotten what EPDM stands for, so no help there.
-- 
Keith Rogers
krogers@javelin.sim.es.com
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: jcp@islay.dco.dec.com (Jolly C. Pancakes)
Subject: Re: Blackspot-Resistant Roses
Organization: Electric Otter Eel Emporium
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 18:07:36 GMT

In article <713401373.0@kcufgat.fidonet.org> Bob.Batson@p3.f322.n280.z1.fidonet.org (Bob Batson) writes:
>Reply-to: bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org
>
>On page 70 in the Sep/Oct 1992 issue of _Organic Gardening_, Pam Coath
>says the following roses are "blackspot-resistant in the East."
>
>FRAGRANT CLOUD
>QUEEN ELIZABETH

	As I recall, the article mentioned Queen Elizabeth but said that
it was not blackspot-resistant. Certainly, that's been my experience
here in Baltimore. My two QE bushes are about 35 years old now, and are
remarkably tough considering that they both lose most of their leaves
every summer, dammit.

	I have two rugosas, "Rosarie de L'Hay" and "Sir Thomas Lipton",
which are very resistant to blackspot, but slightly more susceptible to
mildew.



-- 

------------
jcpatilla					jcp@islay.dco.dec.com
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Kuda squash
Date: 21 Aug 92 11:39:14 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

In article <92234.090824CJS@psuvm.psu.edu>, Christopher Sacksteder <CJS@psuvm.psu.edu> writes:
> Oh!, we've got lot's of Kuta (presume same as Kuda) squash, and don't
> know how to handle them either.  

"Kuta Hybrid.  A Park High Performer Variety".  48 days.  For a totally
different eating experience, grow Kuta, with a delicious flavor so unique
that food specialists have created recipes in its honor.  While under 6",
enjoy the young, light-green fruits raw or in salads or with dips; they're
crisp and smooth, with a mild, sweet nutty flavor.  Cooked, they're a 
gourmet treat with a buttery taste and succulent flesh; low in calories,
fats and carbohydrates, rich in proteins, minerals and vitamins (esp.
Vitamin C).  Fruits of intermediate maturily can be used like eggplant.
Mature fruits turn dark green and are excellent for baking or stuffing
lika winter squash.  Kuta is vigorous, prolific and early."

They also offer free recipes for Kuta, #5670-4.  Presumably they'd
still send them out: Park Seed, Cokesbury Road, Greenwood, SC 29647-0001.


Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: M.Steven@uws.edu.au (Mike Steven)
Subject: Re: spacing on trees, shrubs
Organization: University of Western Sydney, Hawkesbury
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 22:29:32 GMT

In article <19370@drutx.ATT.COM>, seb1@leia.dr.att.com (sharon badian) writes:

> My question is, how much space to you leave between trees and shrubs in
> a landscape?

This question is a bit like "how long is a piece of string." There are many
things to consider, including the species of plants you intend to grow, the
conditions in which they will be growing and the desired style of planting.
Most approaches to planting design utilise a plant spacing that will result in
total coverage of the soil within say 35 years, although closer spacing of the
right species could conceivably cover the ground in 23 years. As you don't want
a tangle of plants, it suggests that you wish to see each plant as a specimen in 
its own right, rather than as a component in a mass of plants.

With many shrubs a reasonable rule of thumb is that the plant will grow as
wide as it will high, so for a plant that will grow to 2 metres, plant them 2
metres apart, but you will have a rather empty looking garden for a number of
years. Try this: plant ground covers .5.75m apart, small shrubs
(up to 1.00m), 1m apart; medium shrubs (1.002.00m), 1.5m apart; large shrubs
(2.003.00m), 2.00m apart, extra large shrubs (>3.00m), 22.5m apart.

For trees there are no rulesagain it comes down to the purpose of the trees
and the style of planting ie whether they are to be seen as specimens or as a
group.

A good idea is to look at mature gardens in the neighbourhood, identify the
plants you wish to use in your design and note how big they are. If you have a
local botanic gardens it will be a good source of info on how big plants will
grow in your area.

E-mail me details of the species you intend to plant and a bit more info on
the garden (soils, climate etc) and what you hope to achieve with the design 
and I'll see if I can provide some more specific advice.

PS: a useful book I have come across is "The National Arboretum Book of
Outstanding Garden Plants" by the staff and consultants of the US National
Arboretum. Check it out.

Mike
>
From: peggys@orca.wv.tek.com
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: African Violets
Date: 12 Aug 92 21:42:24 GMT
Reply-To: peggys@orca.wv.tek.com
Organization: Network Displays Manufacturing, Tektronix,Inc

In article <VSUMMERS.92Aug12162418@polaris.cv.nrao.edu>,
vsummers@polaris.cv.nrao.edu (Vince Summers) writes:
> From: vsummers@polaris.cv.nrao.edu (Vince Summers)
> Newsgroups: rec.gardens
> Subject: Re: African Violets
> Date: 12 Aug 92 21:24:18 GMT
> Organization: National Radio Astronomy Observatory
> 
> 
>      Rotate the plants daily.  Not too much sun, little or no direct sun.
> Bathe plants occasionally with tepid water, and don't let sun strike 
> leaves while wet.  Avoid overwatering.  Soil should dry between waterings.
> Avoid being near gas stove.  Other ideas later if you post again.
> 
> Vince Summers
> vsummers@polaris.cv.nrao.edu


I've had quite a few African Violets over the years & I have always read that
they didn't like having their leaves wet.  Never once did I read to rinse the
plants, but I always did it anyway and I never had a problem with doing that.
I did it probably monthly when I did the rest of my plants to remove any dust.
					Peggy

           ===================================================
          | Peggy Shock  				      |
          | Tektronix, Inc., Network Displays Division	      |
          | PO Box 1000, MS 60-430, Wilsonville, OR 97070     |
          | (503) 685-2030 - email: peggys@orca.WV.TEK.COM    |
           ===================================================
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 09:08:24 EDT
From: Christopher Sacksteder <CJS@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Kuda squash

Oh!, we've got lot's of Kuta (presume same as Kuda) squash, and don't
know how to handle them either.  The seed pack was a gift, and was
labeled "Park's Kuta Hybrid Squash".  It said to see the catalog for more
info.

Does anyone have a Park's catalog handy?  Ours got tossed.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: mrh@centerline.com (Mike Huben)
Subject: Re: Need help!  Chiggers!
Organization: CenterLine Software, Inc.
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 13:28:30 GMT

In article <1992Aug11.170918.25956@gmuvax2.gmu.edu> mfish@gmuvax2.gmu.edu (Michael Fish) writes:
>In article <1992Aug11.142907.24662@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU> mk4j@poe.acc.Virginia.EDU (Mable B. Kinzie) writes:
>
>>Being relatively new to the near-tropical environment of Virginia,
>> we had only heard of chiggers.  We are avid gardeners
>>and dote on working outside, but are now plagued by chigger
>>bites. Is there anything we can do to keep from being bitten?
>
>Most insect repellants (OFF!, Skin-So-Soft, etc.), really do help, 
>but I don't like the smell of them.  Once bitten, the best remedy is 
>rubbing hydrogen peroxide on the bite then covering with clear nail
>polish.  That suffocates the insect and its eggs; the itching stops 
>very soon thereafter and the welts disappear within two weeks.
>You may wish to delay clearing tall grass or woods until after
>the first frost.  Welcome to the tropics :-)

Chiggers are larval Trombiculid mites (the later stages in the life cycle are
free-living predators.)  The species that usually attack humans are hosted by
snakes or lizards, though there are also mammal, bird and amphibian chiggers
as well.  They are not insects, nor do they lay eggs during the parasitic
stage of their life cycle.

Habitat avoidance is the best solution, but proper dressing can also
provide significant protection.  Tuck long pant legs into your socks, and
keep your shirt or undershirt in your pants so that they can't get into those
uncomfortable spots like the waist or groin as they travel upwards.  Deet
containing repellents applied to the clothing can keep them from traveling
higher.  I'd much rather apply deet to my clothing than my skin: there are
alot of questions about whether it is dangerous.  As Kay Klier points out,
they do take some time to attach and cause a reaction, so a shower after
exposure will prevent most irritation.

While collecting insects in Ecuador, I had to teach the Scandinavian botanists
I was traveling with about this.  They were pitiful sights.

Mike Huben
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: tsovar@leland.Stanford.EDU (Thomas Sovar)
Subject: Habanero Peppers
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 92 19:50:57 GMT

I have three healthy-looking habanero pepper plants
which I started from seed in mid-March.  The plants 
are full of flowers and bees are attracted to them.
My problem is so far only one flower has set, which I
only noticed 15 minutes ago.  All the rest have dried
up and fallen off.

I live in Palo Alto, CA, which is in the Bay Area.  
The plants are in full sun and I have been giving 
them deep waterings after letting them go almost dry,
as the seed package directed.

If anyone has any ideas on how to get some peppers,
I'd appreciate it.  Please email me.  Fresh habaneros 
go for $4.50 a lb. out here at the stores.

Thank you much,

Tom
From: duanej@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Duane Jacobson)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 17:02:34 GMT
Subject: Re: Info on self-watering pots
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA
Newsgroups: rec.gardens

>Seems to me it would work best will plants that like it fairly moist since
>the wick draws up water continuously and keeps the soil quite moist (at
>least that's the impression I get from my basil plants in the Rubbermaid
>pots). Do you counteract this by letting the water reservoir dry out
>every once in a while?

I'll bet you could control the rate of water exchange by changing the
diameter and type of rope ... thinner and/or less absorbant rope for
drier soil, thicker and/or more absorbant rope for wetter soil.  It
would take some experimenting to find the right rope for each plant
though.
From: seb1@leia.dr.att.com (sharon badian)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: spacing on trees, shrubs
Date: 17 Aug 92 19:13:24 GMT
Reply-To: seb1@druhi.att.com
Organization: Bell Labs, Denver, CO.

I am in the process of developing a landscape plan for my yard. I've gotten
down all the existing trees that I plan on keeping (I plan on tearing out
almost all the existing shrubs) and I've also marked off their driplines
on my plan.

My question is, how much space to you leave between trees and shrubs in
a landscape? I've seen too many yards that are planted as if the new plants
aren't going to grow anymore. What you end up with in a few years is a mess
as all the plants grow together in one big tangle. I'd like to avoid this.

I have a few books on landscape design. They give standard sorts of distances.
But, doesn't it depend on the plant? I would imagine you plant some things
closer together than others. Anyone know of any resources for this kind of
information?

-- 
Sharon Badian
AT&T Bell Labs - Denver
seb1@druhi.att.com