HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: misc.rural

I'm trying to create a self-contained living space inside a barn and I'm
looking for information and recommendations regarding composting toilets.
I know of composting and ashing (one mfgr each) toilets. Has anyone any
direct experiece with this sort of equipment ?

             thanks 

               maryw 
Newsgroups: misc.rural
From: parnass@cbnewse.cb.att.com (Bob Parnass, AJ9S)
Subject: Re: Old Barn in exurban area
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories, Naperville, IL
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1992 19:10:56 GMT
Summary: Silver-gray of wood does not indicate serious deterioration

In article <1992Jul31.080432.23435@usenet.ins.cwru.edu>,
bm010@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (J. A. Stewart) writes:
 
> Anybody out there have any experience with the possible harm
> done by applying paint or other protective coating to a
> 80-90-year-old carriage barn that has naturally-weathered
> siding?
> 
> It hasn't been painted in 20-30 years, but the local town
> idiots have decided it should now be painted. We plan to fight
> them, but we need some ammunition.


Is the city arguing for aesthetic reasons or do they
think the paint will protect the wood?

I read in Patrick Spielman's book on rustic wood projects
that the graying seen on exposed wood isn't a sign
of serious rotting.  He cites a study which says
UV wood damage of this type only penetrates about 1/4" per
hundred years.

He thinks silvery-graying wood is beautiful, but beauty
is subjective and I suppose your city disagrees. 
Sterling publishes the Spielman book and you should get a copy.

If you cut (sawed) through an old grayed piece of wood from your barn
you could almost "date" the wood.

BTW, I had my barn repainted 2 years ago after repairs from
a tornado.  I used some of the old, graying siding for
artsy-craftsy decoration projects.
-- 
==============================================================================
Bob Parnass, AJ9S  -  AT&T Bell Labs  -  parnass@ihlpm.att.com - (708)979-5414
Newsgroups: misc.rural
From: ddabay@ruacad.ac.runet.edu (Dave Dabay)
Subject: Re: advise need on painting fence
Organization: Radford University
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 92 19:35:34 GMT

In article <92Jul28.193730edt.196@smoke.cs.toronto.edu> enenkel@cs.toronto.edu (Robert Frederick Enenkel) writes:
>GC.SUL@forsythe.stanford.edu (Sullivan) writes:
>
>>Help, the time has hopefully come to paint or stain out 2,000 ft
>>four rail wood fence.  I need suggestions om wether or not to use a
>>farm and barn pain that is supposed to resist peeling, or a good
>>quality solid color stain.  Any ideas out there?
>
>How about using creosote?  I painted a (albeit small) wood fence with
>it and it isn't rotting at all after a couple of years.  The wood also
>emits a pleasant smell when it bakes in the sun.  Reminds me of the
>railway yards I used to play in when I was a kid...  Robert Enenkel

In some states/counties the use of creosote or any of its derivatives
is against the law.  It is a health hazard (EPA crap).  It also works
In a previous life, we mixed creosote with used,burnt motor oil in a
one:one solution and it lasts for years.  Hornets don't strip it down and
it is disliked by most insects.

It DOES work well, so if your locality allows it, just don't drink it...

regards
dave

-- 
Dave Dabay  Senior Programmer/Analyst   703-831-5482    KD3PC	
Radford University Computer Services	Internet: ddabay@ruacad.ac.runet.edu
From: pharvey@mipos3.intel.com (Paul Harvey)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Re: Introduction from rural Alaska
Date: 27 Jul 92 18:05:39 GMT

In article <B4kgoB3w164w@coldbox.cojones.com> 
system@coldbox.cojones.com (Bryan Lockwood) writes:
>I live above the Arctic Circle (about 71 degrees north latitude, actually) on
>the North Slope of Alaska, in a small eskimo village called Atqasuk
>(at-KA-sook), population 250.
>However, I'm the first person on the Slope to get Internet access to
>my house (or at all, actually... I'm not aware of any other Bush Alaskans on
>the net).

Wow, maybe the only person on the net living in one of the polar regions. So
what's it like? What do you do in winter? And aren't the days a little long
in summer? What kind of food do you eat? How is the local culture?

Newsgroups: misc.rural,misc.consumers.house,rec.gardens
From: mats@devildog.att.com (Matt Szela)
Subject: How to keep deers away
Followup-To: mats@devildog.att.com
Summary: Need info on keeping deers away
Keywords: deer
Organization: AT&T IMS - Piscataway, NJ (USA)
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 18:19:04 GMT


Gardeners, Plantation Owners, etc,

I need info on the best chemical that can be used to spray
a large plantation of evergreen shrubs and trees to keep deers away.

I would appreciate any comments on the subject: which stuff works
and which not and what is more economical on the large scale and what 
is not.

Can some 'home-brewed' stuff be used to do the job ???     
(Say ammonia with soap ?? (Someone mentioned this to me lately))

Please send email to mats@devildog.att.com or post on in the newsgroups.

I appreciate any comments on the subject.

Thanks in advance.

Matt
Newsgroups: misc.rural
From: rim@csadfa.cs.adfa.oz.au (Bob McKay)
Subject: Re: Sheep?
Organization: Australian Defence Force Academy, Canberra, Australia
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 02:43:09 GMT

hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987) writes:

>Also, there are a lot of thistles in there, which he says they probably won't 
>eat.  Will they eat them if I cut them down & they dry out?

>Can anyone suggest low-maintainence, moderate-yeild critters to keep who would
>not take more than an acre or two of pasture?  What and how many?  Thanks.

I'm not quite clear on what 'yield' you're looking for. If you just want an
affectionate animal who'll also get rid of the thistles and many other rough
species, you might consider a donkey - depending on the quality of your land,
a couple of acres may well be enough for one without additional feeding. If
you're prepared to put in a bit of time working with it when it's young, you'll
also get a critter who'll probably be prepared to haul a bit of wood, rock or
whatever needs moving for you later on (if you're not prepared to put in that
time before it's twelve months old, forget the idea). If you're looking for
meat/milk type yields, I can't think of anything that would really fit the
bill - goats have been mentioned, but you get a choice between milking breeds
that are usually pretty easy to handle and fence, but wouldn't deign to look
at your thistles, and some of the wool breeds that would take out the thistles,
though not perhaps if they had alternatives, but will also get over your 
garden fence and have great fun taking out your roses and anything else as
well.
   Cheers
      Bob McKay

-- 
Bob McKay		   Phone:	+61 6 268 8169	    fax: +61 6 268 8581
Dept. Computer Science		Internet:	rim@csadfa.cs.adfa.oz.au
ADFA, Northcott Dve 		UUCP:...!uunet!munnari!csadfa.cs.adfa.oz.au!rim
Campbell ACT 2600 AUSTRALIA	ARPA:	rim%csadfa.cs.adfa.oz.au@uunet.uu.net
Newsgroups: misc.rural
From: bill@chaos.cs.umn.edu (Hari Seldon)
Subject: Re: Sheep?
Organization: University of Minnesota
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 01:22:45 GMT

In <1992Jul24.024309.18984@sserve.cc.adfa.oz.au> rim@csadfa.cs.adfa.oz.au (Bob McKay) writes:

>hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987) writes:

>>Also, there are a lot of thistles in there, which he says they probably won't 
>>eat.  Will they eat them if I cut them down & they dry out?

>>Can anyone suggest low-maintainence, moderate-yeild critters to keep who would
>>not take more than an acre or two of pasture?  What and how many?  Thanks.

>I'm not quite clear on what 'yield' you're looking for. If you just want an
>affectionate animal who'll also get rid of the thistles and many other rough
>species, you might consider a donkey - depending on the quality of your land,
hey!
hadn't thought of that. hmmmm wonder how well they'd work at hauling logs out
of the woods up here in the winter????
any thought?

bill pociengel
--
bill@chaos.cs.umn.edu
Newsgroups: misc.rural
From: hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Sheep?
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 92 07:52:11 GMT

I am lending some pasture space to a neighbor of mine, as I wanted it cleared
(currently it is unoccupied) and he wanted to feed his sheep.  My question is
this:  How good is sheep 'manure' for gardening, etc?  Is it worth the effort,
or should it just stay in the pasture.

Also, there are a lot of thistles in there, which he says they probably won't 
eat.  Will they eat them if I cut them down & they dry out?

As he and I are both on the fire department, we had decided that whatever the
sheep don't eat we will burn on a drill-night, just for the exercise.  (pasture,
not sheep.)

Can anyone suggest low-maintainence, moderate-yeild critters to keep who would
not take more than an acre or two of pasture?  What and how many?  Thanks.



--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
hinz@picard.med.ge.com


Newsgroups: misc.rural
From: RXTL20@WACCVM.corp.mot.com
Subject: Re: Introduction from rural Alaska
Organization: Motorola Inc.
Date: 28 Jul 1992 07:39:32 MST

------------------------- Original Article -------------------------
From: system@coldbox.cojones.com (Bryan Lockwood)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Introduction from rural Alaska
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 92 00:21:58 PDT
Organization: The Generation Gap


x live above the Arctic Circle (about 71 degrees north latitude, actually) on
xhe North Slope of Alaska, in a small eskimo village called Atqasuk
xat-KA-sook), population 250.
x
xince you are reading this), TV, running water (kept in a tank inside the house
xnd delivered by truck, faucets pressurized by a pump next to the tank),
x
-----------------------------------------------------------------
And from the other extreme --- Phoenix (actually rural Queen Creek, Az)
we also have our water delivered by a truck, etc., (but tank is outside!!!)
STICKS
Newsgroups: misc.rural
From: ilaine@panix.com (Liz Stokes)
Subject: Re: churro sheep
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 00:42:00 GMT
Organization: PANIX Public Access Unix & Internet, NYC

In article <2127@devnull.mpd.tandem.com> marym@mpd.tandem.com (Mary Matejka) writes:

>Obligatory disclaimer....................The wool is interesting :-)
	interesting in what way? What's it like to spin? Is it good for
anything besides Navaho blankets?   Ewenquiring minds want to know!
						-Liz


-- 
Liz Stokes         | Ilaine's EZ-Pregnancy Test 
Ilaine de Cameron  | ... "Now take the skein of handspun yarn out of the 
                   | dyebath. If it is green, you are with child, if it
ilaine@panix.com   | is blue, you are not."
Newsgroups: misc.rural
From: bill@chaos.cs.umn.edu (Hari Seldon)
Subject: Re: dream situation
Organization: University of Minnesota
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 04:36:32 GMT

In <1992Jul15.192340.16079@col.hp.com> lpj@col.hp.com (Laura Johnson) writes:

>Depending on what this "subdivision" is like, you may very well
>want to own a four wheel drive vehicle. At 9,000 feet, you'll be
>getting quite a bit of snow, and even if the access to your place
>is fairly easy, there may be places you want to get to that are
>reached via rough roads.

>Of course one woodstove won't heat 6000 sq.ft., but of course you
>didn't mean 6000 sq.ft. It would be nice to have electric heat in
>addition...you don't have to use it most of the time (a woodstove
>would heat 600 sq.ft. nicely!), but it's there if you sprain your
ok enough is enough. a wood stove can heat every bit as much as any. any. any
other type of heater (size it correctly) wood heat is not a playfull thing.
it is a serious heating method to some of us. also i'd avoid electric heat,
for backup a long way from anywhere you'll want something which can survive
with a minimal amount of electricity, maybe even battery power. 

>ankle. Also, something I've always wondered about with wood heat 
>only is, what if you go away for a week? How do you keep the pipes
if this is a requirement then you'll need to consider auto feeding wood
heaters or chip burning stoves. or maybe solar?? nasa has some great plans.

>(and the cat) from freezing?  (What?? You're going to live alone with
>no cat??)  ...Propane heat is another possibility.
both of these are true :-)

>But hey, all in all, it sounds *really nice*.  Good luck!
dispite some of my tone, i agree.

>-Laura.
>-- 
>lpj@hpctdls.col.hp.com
>Opinions expressed are my own, but may be licensed for a nominal fee.
sorry but i stole mine :-)
--
bill@chaos.cs.umn.edu
From: rcj@lhdsy1.lahabra.chevron.com (R.C. Jones)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Rural retirement
Keywords: country homestead farms mountains colleges
Date: 29 Jul 92 21:06:59 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Chevron, La Habra, CA


 My wife and I currently live in Orange county (California) and
have a country place in Julian which is in the mountains north east
of San Diego (elevation ~ 4000 ft.).
 This December we plan to drive east to hunt around for a possible
area to retire to in a few years. Currently, we are thinking about
western North Carolina in the hopes of finding a balance of climate
that is not too cold and not too hot in summer. We hope to find a
comfortable place which is not too far from a college or some
access to the cultural.
 Can any of you who have knowledge or experience in the above give
us advice on how we might improve our search or why it's not a good
idea? We have lived previously in the far east,London, Houston, and
Pittsburgh. 
Thanks for any help.
-- 
        |______________________________________________________________| 
||||||||| Dik Jones, Advanced Systems        Internet: rcj@Chevron.com |
        | Chevron Oil Field Research Co.           Tel: (310) 694-7056 | 
        | La Habra, California 90633-0446          Fax: (310) 694-7063 |  
Newsgroups: misc.rural
From: hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: Old Barn in exurban area
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 92 10:38:25 GMT

bm010@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (J. A. Stewart) writes:
: 
: It hasn't been painted in 20-30 years, but the local town
: idiots have decided it should now be painted. We plan to fight
: them, but we need some ammunition.
: 
: Can anyone offer any helpful info.

Yeesh!

I thought the reason for moving to a rural area is so that you don't have to    
worry about crap like that!  (Let's not bring up fencing again, though, OK?)

Perhaps you could tell them that the extra weight of (x) gallons of paint
would seriously compromise the structural integrity of the building.  They
ought to love that!

Note:  If you do end up painting it, buy yourself one of those airless paint
sprayers.  It's about 1000% quicker, especially over uneven wood (e.g. barn 
boards).

Good Luck!
--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
hinz@picard.med.ge.com
From: vic@helicon.math.purdue.edu (Victor W. Lovejoy)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Building A Slaughterhouse: Any suggestions?
Date: 24 Jul 92 17:46:20 GMT
Organization: Purdue University, Department of Mathematics

Hi all, this is Vic. Part of the plans of living on the farm is that we 
will be raising and butchering our own beef, pork, and chickens. My 
fiance's Mom, who owns the land, has a desire to build a slaughterhouse -
a small building just used for slaughtering, hanging, cutting and packaging
of meats. So I am trying to gather some information about this type of
structure. 
	
I have read that the animals one is planning to slaughter should be deprived
of food for 24 hours before killing them, so I plan to put a cement pen
outside the building for holding for the period before slaughter. There 
will be a watering trough and a heavy beam for hanging the animal for
skinning. I am curious to know how much room is required for hanging a
whole steer (650 lbs dressed) and what kind of refrigeration unit should
be used to maintain a 30 degree temp for seven days for a walk-in cooler
like this.

They have been slaughtering thier own meat for years, but have had to do
the job during the winter. If a steer was ready to kill in July, they would
have to take it to a butcher. They have all the equipment for butchering
except a permanent building to do it in. Any and all suggestions for a 
building like this and general slaughtering/butchering suggestions will
be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for the advice.


viclovejodi


vic@math.purdue.edu
From: kyoder@lamar.ColoState.EDU (Kenneth Yoder)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Re: Sheep?
Date: 28 Jul 92 14:27:18 GMT
Organization: Colorado State University, Fort Collins, CO  80523

I am new to this group so I may have missed this before, but as far as I am
concerned nothing beats rabbit "pellets" for a garden.  They take up very
little room, produce a LOT of meat (we have three does and one buck), eat the
left-overs and weeds (that we pull) from the garden, AND contribute their
left-overs (droppings) to our garden.  We do have to feed them hay in the 
winter, but one bale a month will usually do it.  I also give them rolled
barley year round.

The pellets can be applied directly to the garden - they don't burn.  For
people with limited space or zoning restrictions (here they are considered
"pets" and I can have up to 6 adults) they are great.  Between them and my
hunting, we only BUY meat for a change of pace.  Our garden is also one of
the highest producers in the area.

Ken Yoder
kyoder@lamar.colostate.edu
Newsgroups: misc.rural
From: lawrence@lynx.msc.cornell.edu.UUCP (Lawrence H. Smith,E20 Clark,56064,2726746)
Subject: Re: what to do with walnuts
Originator: lawrence@msc2.msc.cornell.edu
Organization: Cornell-Materials-Science-Center
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 22:05:41 GMT

From article <1992Jul28.213552.13183@morrow.stanford.edu>, by GC.SUL@forsythe.stanford.edu (Sullivan):
>       broy@vaxa.weeg.uiowa.edu (Barbara Roy) writes:
>        : Need Info on Walnut Harvesting
> 
> I have a walnut tree in my horse paddock and, since they are toxic to horses,
> must collect the nuts as they drop. Since I have to go to all this trouble
 <questions about what to do to get walnuts to eat>

> have a walnut tree in our paddock, then 147 trees in our other two
> pastures (8 acres)!  So, we have to harvest every November and I try
> to get up-every-nut, and during that time keep our donkey, pony and
> horse penned up.
 <perferctly reasonable answer WRT getting walnuts to eat>

Note: if black walnuts, expect to have your hands brown for a while, though
that will usually occur just from collecting them anyway. Makes a good dye
(from the husks). Normal nut-crackers are frustrating with Black Walnuts, 
supposedly modified wire-cutters work better. I have yet to make these, but
the basic idea is to make them more like squirrel teeth by grinding them
down. I've used hammers and vise-grips and normal wirecutters to get to them.

Itsy-Bitsy comment: rather than needing to be utterly paranoid about getting
them all lest you should kill your horse, consider investing in just a bit
more fencing, and keeping the horses away from the toxic trees. Run some
small wire on the bottom to keep the rolling nuts in. You'll sleep better,
and your stock won't be penned up all nut season. 

-Lawrence Smith, MSC Computing Staff - E-20 Clark Hall(next to the donut room)
 lawrence@msc.cornell.edu lawrence@crnlmsc2.bitnet 5-6064 [(607)255-6064]
-Cats, Coffee, Chocolate... Vices to live by. 
Newsgroups: misc.rural
From: dadams@cray.com (David Adams)
Subject: Re: Sheep?
Reply-To: dadams@cray.com
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 23 Jul 92 11:58:43 CDT

In article 10271@mr.med.ge.com, hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987) writes:
> I am lending some pasture space to a neighbor of mine, as I wanted it cleared
> (currently it is unoccupied) and he wanted to feed his sheep.  My question is
> this:  How good is sheep 'manure' for gardening, etc?  Is it worth the effort,
> or should it just stay in the pasture.
> 

As manure goes, its tops.  Hard to beat.


--David C. Adams  Statistician  Cray Research Inc.  dadams@cray.com
___________________________________________________________________
       If you have a watch, you always know what time it is.
            If you have two, you're never quite sure.

Newsgroups: misc.rural
From: bill@chaos.cs.umn.edu (Hari Seldon)
Subject: Re: running around like a .......
Organization: University of Minnesota
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 04:47:47 GMT

In <1992Jul15.204950.7311@schbbs.mot.com> RXTL20@WACCVM.corp.mot.com writes:

>For those who raise chickens and the time comes to use the hatchet, and
[stuff deleted]
>and gave up!!!
>No chase, no dirt in the cut, no scenes resembling a 'B' movie.
seems like it'll take a while to butcher 1-200 chikens this way?

bill pociengel
--
bill@chaos.cs.umn.edu
Newsgroups: misc.rural
From: bill@chaos.cs.umn.edu (Hari Seldon)
Subject: Re: Building A Slaughterhouse: Any suggestions?
Organization: University of Minnesota
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 01:46:41 GMT

In <55015@mentor.cc.purdue.edu> vic@helicon.math.purdue.edu (Victor W. Lovejoy) writes:

>Hi all, this is Vic. Part of the plans of living on the farm is that we 
>will be raising and butchering our own beef, pork, and chickens. My 
>fiance's Mom, who owns the land, has a desire to build a slaughterhouse -
>a small building just used for slaughtering, hanging, cutting and packaging
>of meats. So I am trying to gather some information about this type of
>structure. 
well you'll need to be able to keep it relativly clean and insect free
(separate the holding pen from the slaughter house)

it will need to be tall enpogh to hang the largest animal you expect to work
on (body length + leg lengths ~ 10ft tall) with a place to hang a come-along
or chain hoist from

cement floor

drain

frsh water supply

sink

tables (stainless would be nice, avoid wood as it is to hard to completly
clean, or sand it all the time)

fan (bug proof)

freezer/refrigerator

comments (this is pure conjecture on my part from observation of the local
meat locker, films, and of course the inlaws milk house)

bill pociengel
--
bill@chaos.cs.umn.edu
Newsgroups: misc.rural
From: GC.SUL@forsythe.stanford.edu (Sullivan)
Subject: advise need on painting fence
Organization: Stanford University, California, USA
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 21:47:29 GMT

Help, the time has hopefully come to paint or stain out 2,000 ft
four rail wood fence.  I need suggestions om wether or not to use a
farm and barn pain that is supposed to resist peeling, or a good
quality solid color stain.  Any ideas out there?
Newsgroups: misc.rural
From: bill@chaos.cs.umn.edu (Hari Seldon)
Subject: Re: Pallets
Organization: University of Minnesota
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 04:43:58 GMT

In <1992Jul14.215814.21514@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU> jwg2y@poe.acc.Virginia.EDU (Warner Granade) writes:

{stuff deleted]
>hauling lambs in the back of my pickup.  Leave one of the
>sides un-nailed and tie it on or use hinges for a door.
>The same kind of setup without a top works for a compost
>bin.  I keep a few around for a quick patch of a fence.
>I'd be interested in knowing other uses.
i took some apart and built a very nice chiken coup thank you.

bill pociengel
--
bill@chaos.cs.umn.edu