HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: karenp@sybase.com (Karen Paulsell)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Moving roses...
Date: 5 Oct 92 19:36:52 GMT
Organization: Sybase, Inc.

In article <73530004@hpcvra.cv.hp.com> sanker@hpcvra.cv.hp.com (Greg Sanker) writes:
>>I need to transplant a couple of roses soon.
>>So I have the basic questions of:
>>	when?  ( I figured that fall would be better than spring)

I moved several rosebushes during our mild N. Cal winter, at their
most-dormant time. I pruned first, much better for my skin, and the
bush!

The Head Rosarian at the Oakland Rose Garden, when asked about moving
rose bushes, basically said "Don't worry about, you can bare-root them
when you move them, they'll be OK, some will even be better than before
they were moved." He recommended blasting the soil off the root-ball
with a hose nozzle.

What I did: dug a big "donut", about 20" from the crown of the bush,
cutting whatever roots were near the surface at the outside diameter of
the donut. I dug this round pit maybe a foot or so down, then used the
shovel to sever as many roots from underneath the bush, and to try to
pry it up, as I could. Sometimes, I could get it loose, with some soil
still attached, and it would be light enough to lift and move. Other
times, I had to get out the nozzle, the pruning shears, etc., to cut
the various roots and reduce the root ball to something I could carry.
Some of them wound up practically bare-rooted, anyway. The big donut,
deeper than the part of the root-ball that I was aiming for, provided a
space for the water to run into, so that I wasn't working in a deep
muddy pool of water.

Now, I had the new hole ready before I took the bush out of the ground,
so I could quickly set it in, tuck the roots into place, and joggle the
loose soil, firmly but gently, around the roots.  Made a nice watering
basin, gave it a good drink. Worried a lot.

Out of maybe 10 bushes, one that was pretty sickly to start with did
not survive, the rest of them have. One or two looked kind of depressed
for a year, but are doing better now. The rest are strong and fine!
And these weren't recently-planted bushes, some of them have these huge
gnarly crowns. Big guys!

Hard work that I would not have done for lesser roses, but the previous
owner was a collector and cherisher of roses, and these are beautiful
flowers in many colors. I moved them mainly because they were dotted
about in the lawn, impossible to water the grass without sprinkling the
roses and spreading diseases, impossible to mow without lacerating my
legs.
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: stupid question re. forcing bulbs
Date: 10 Oct 92 12:57:05 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

amy@vineland.pubs.stratus.com (Amy McNulty) writes:
Amy writes about forcing crocus:... However, now I've
> read the FAQ and realized that I made a rather
> serious blunder; instead of planting them in pots
> and then putting those pots in the fridge, I just
> put the bag of bulbs directly in the fridge. The
> problem is that I really don't have room for 3 or 4
> good-sized pots in my fridge, so I don't know what
> to do. Meanwhile, have I already destroyed the bulbs?
   
   Nope.  They're fine.  Much better than if you'd left
   them on the kitchen counter!

> Is there any hope for them if I leave them as is
> until December and then plant them and follow the
> rest of the forcing instructions?

If you leave them refrigerated dry and plant them in
December, they'll need less growing time in the cold than
if you planted them now  (several weeks less).

A couple of things you can try if you're short on reefer space:

1) Plant the crocus in very shallow pots (even the saucers meant
to catch pot overflow), and grow them for several weeks. When the
saucers get crowded with roots, shift the whole clump to a deeper 
pot and refrigerate again.  If you rig up some shelving so the 
saucers are stacked but not resting directly on one another, it 
won't take much space.  Ditto with the pots.  And remember, bulbs
and corms are planted close enough together so they are almost 
touching.  You get a lot of crocus in a 5" pot!
 
2) Assuming you live in an area where the temps are basically into
the 50's (day) and lower at night by mid-November:
Pot the crocus in shallow pots or saucers now and refrigerate as for 1).
As soon as day temps are reliably no longer in the 65+ oF range and
night temps are reliably in the 40's, repot the refrigerated crocus 
into their final growing pots and place them in an outdoor area.
This could be a leaf-stuffed cardboard box in an unheated garage or
balcony (but keep the box in the shade!), a leaf-stuffed trench dug
in the annuals bed, or even the trunk of your car (but not the interior--
all that glass keeps it too warm!).

Kay
From: LARCU@CUNYVM.BITNET
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: tiller wanted
Date: 8 Oct 92 16:54:31 GMT
Organization: City University of New York/ University Computer Center

I live in Delaware county NY where the soil is tough and loaded with
rocks (and boulders) and have been struggling with fork and shovel
and various rented and borrowed tillers for the past few years.

I figure I probably need at least a 6 or 8 horsepower, but am in
shock at the price of TROY-BILT.  Actually, I have the most faith
in Briggs and Stratton motors.

Primary use would be landscaping now ... but I imagine I will use it
in the future for vegetable gardening as well.

I'm interested in recommendations (or purchase of a used one if anyone
has one for sale within reasonable distance from say Albany, Binghamton
or tri-state area.)

Personal experience with various brands would be helpful if I'm (gulp)
forced to buy one new.

Thanks,
Anne Reinhard
City University of NY
(607) 432-9313
From: Roger.Duvall@AtlantaGA.NCR.COM (Roger Duvall)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Summary - Office plants.
Summary: Violet, asparagus fern, pothos, ivy
Date: 12 Oct 92 12:23:08 GMT
Organization: NCR Engineering and Manufacturing Atlanta -- Atlanta, GA

This is a summary of responses to my request for plants that grow well on an 
office desk under flourescent light.  Many thanks to Brad, Judy, Bob, 
Elizabeth, and Shoshana.  The responses included violets (2), pothos, 
asparagus fern, and ivy.
----------------------------------------------------------------
  Roger Duvall                 Roger.Duvall@AtlantaGA.NCR.COM
----------------------------------------------------------------
From: kyd@kali.EBay.Sun.COM (Karen deWeeger)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: How to grow a plum tree?
Keywords: Plum Trees
Date: 12 Oct 92 21:31:48 GMT
Reply-To: kyd@kali.EBay.Sun.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
NNTP-Posting-Host: kali.ebay.sun.com


 I know this is probably in the realm of things that are not done, but....
I have the seeds (pits) from a plum tree that had a very blue coloured
fruit and I would like to try and grow a tree from the pits. Right now I
have two of the pits in a dish with moistened paper towels - a la 2nd grade
bean growing projects. It's been two weeks now, and no sign of germination.
How can I get these guys to germinate? Should I freeze them first? How on
earth can a (what ever plant embryos are called :-) hatch it's way out of
that tough woody pit? 
 I know this is not the way fruit trees are grown now-adays, but I'd like to
try. (Or should I just stick with beans :-) Please e-mail, and I will post a
summary.

	TIA, -kyd

---
 Karen Y. deWeeger  (kyd@kali.EBay.Sun.COM)       (:>
                                                ~(_)~
- - - - - - - - - - - - -- - - - - - - - - - - - ""- - - - - -
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: A.S.Chamove@massey.ac.nz (A.S. Chamove)
Subject: Re: Hyperaccumulators
Organization: Massey University, Palmerston North, New Zealand
X-Reader: NETNEWS/PC Version 2c
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 92 23:47:12 GMT

Does anyone know of a plant (edible to cows and horses) that will
concentrate selenium in selenium-deficient soils?

-- 
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Arnold Chamove
Massey University Psychology
Palmerston North, New Zealand
From: jhb@calmasd.prime.com (Jim Bishop)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Custard Apple-Annona cherimolia
Date: 16 Oct 92 06:51:52 GMT
Article-I.D.: calmasd.1992Oct15.225152.860
Organization: -

In article <10292288.10889.14161@kcbbs.gen.nz>, 
Pandora@kcbbs.gen.nz (Dawn Scotting) writes:
> I have just been given a lovely ripe custard apple by a friend who has 
> another friend that has a tree of them. I didn't realise they were able 
> to be grown in New Zealand (Auckland) and am thrilled to find they are. 
> I have kept the large seeds and was wondering if anyone knows if they 
> can be grown from seed? If so, will it come true to type or will it 
> need to be grafted onto rootstock and if so what sort of stock? If it 
> doesn't grow true to type is it worth trying to grow anyway, whether 
> I get fruit or not? Please answer in this newsgroup but it you MUST 
> email me please don't quote!

Well, Sunset didn't answer any of your questions but did raise a few
of my own.  I know most of Cherimola that are grown commerically in
the U.S. are grown in San Diego county (where I live).  If anyone
wants some nursery names that carry the plants, send me email.  Where
are cherimola native to?  Sunset says that have to be pollinated by
hand, so how are they pollinated in the wild?  Also what are their
water and soil requirements?  How easy are they to grow?

Can someone email me any early replies (jhb@calmasd.prime.com)?  I'll
be away from the net until the 22nd.  Thanks.

Jim
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: tabacco@stsci.edu
Subject: MOS Meeting 10/15/92
Organization: Space Telescope Science Institute
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 21:13:07 GMT

                       MARYLAND ORCHID SOCIETY

                         October 1992 Meeting

                               10/15/92

The October 1992 meeting of the Maryland Orchid Society (MOS) will  be
held on 10/15/92 at 8:15 PM in the meeting room of the First Christian
Church, 5802 Roland Avenue, Baltimore, MD.  The meeting  will  feature
Mr.   Mark Steen speaking on "_Phalaenopsis_ Culture." Mr.  Steen is a
member of both the MOS and the National Capital Orchid Society  (NCOS)
and  is  a  mainstay  of  both  Show Tables.  He is well-known for his
_Phalaenopsis_ both locally and nationally, and he gave  an  excellent
talk at the MOS' "Beginner's Workshop" in May.

The building opens at 7:00 PM, Show Table setup begins at 7:15 PM, and
the Library opens at 7:30 PM.  It is suggested that you arrive by 7:45
PM to allow a minimal amount of time to view the Show Table.

For more information, contact Larry Tabacco at (410) 516-7547  or  via
e-mail at "tabacco@stsci.edu".
From: pharvey@mipos3.intel.com (Paul Harvey)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Asparagus
Date: 14 Oct 92 18:45:58 GMT
Organization: noitazinagrO

In article <1992Oct13.141654.19092@awdprime.austin.ibm.com> 
dave@voyager.austin.ibm.com writes:
>	1.) Do I need to protect it from frost by covering it or
>	do I prune it back to some level and let the stubs freeze.
>	Basically what do I do w/ it this winter. 

Not in Texas. Asparagus is very hardy, maybe a northern poster can reply for
cold locations. In Texas all you need to do is cut off the dead plants at
ground level. If you have female plants, the ones with berries, you should
pull them out since they yield less and will produce shallow baby asparagus
weeds.

>	2.) Can/should I thin it in the spring. Currently, its growing
>	like weeds in rather thick bunches.

Cut all spears thicker than a pencil and eat them. I'm assuming you eat
asparagus, if it's just an ornamental you can let it go. In Texas you might
get a second crop of spears in mid-summer. Cut any spears larger than a
pencil and eat `em. Let the little ones grow into ferns to replenish the
roots.

>	3.) Will pruning it in some fashion improve growth/production.

No, but if you want spears you have to cut them and if you remove the dead
growth in winter it makes it easier to cut spears. If you cut all the spears
then you kill the plant eventually, that's the reason for letting the smaller
ones go. Rouging out females increases yields and eliminates the self-sown 
weed problem. Self-sown asparagus is too shallow rooted to be useful.

>	4.) How to harvest ? Just lop it off at the base when its
>	thick enough and before it sprouts leaves.

Cut at ground level with a sharp knife. Young spears are much better than
older ones that are about to leaf out. I would cut at about six inches or
less, if you forget to cut and your spears look too old, let them go, they'll
be tough like store bought spears, not worth it. Fresh young spears are
what you want to eat. You can also mound up soil and blanch the spears so
they are white and you get white asparagus, personally I don't think it's
worth the trouble but N. Europeans make a big thing about the first white
asparagus spears of spring.
From: Bob.Batson@mtask.omahug.org (Bob Batson)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Mailorder source for oak trees?
Date: 14 Oct 92 16:35:30 CST
Reply-To: bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org
Organization: Multitasking Systems, Kansas City
Followup-To: rec.gardens

heim@vms.macc.wisc.edu (JOHN HEIM) writes:

 > Anybody know of a source from which I can order some oak trees via the 
 > mail?  

BARBER NURSERY
  13118 Pantano Drive                   [CAT FREE]
  Houston, TX 77065

WHITMAN FARMS                           [CAT long SASE]
  1420 Beaumont Street
  Salem, OR 97304



Bob Batson
From: graue@andy.bgsu.edu (Louis Graue)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Magnetically Treated Water
Date: 9 Oct 92 16:19:26 GMT
Article-I.D.: andy.Bvv40G.9H3
Organization: Bowling Green State University B.G., Oh.

If you'd like to grow brilliant blossoms; vibrant foliage; plus, green lawns;
luscious fruit, put magnets on your pipes.  Magnetic fields separate water
molecules, reducing surface tension and suspending minerals allowing water 
to flow freely.  The water penetrates more effectively, and reaches roots 
more quickly; evaporation is minimized.

I read this in a suppliment to my local newspaper and just wondered if any
of you in netland had any experience with this.
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: help my poor redbuds
Date: 13 Oct 92 19:36:46 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

In article <1992Oct13.181534.16329@news.eng.convex.com>, newton@convex.com (Vicki Newton) writes:
> i have three beautiful redbuds sitting out in front of my house.
> i eagerly anticipate every spring when i know i'll see them in
> all their glory.  anyway, right now their leaves are turning all
> golden.  not falling off, just turning golden.  the redbuds my
> neighbors all have (we have quite a street come april) still have
> green leaves.  something is definitely up with mine.  could it be
> an iron problem?  anything else?  i need to get these guys healthy
> again!!!

Are your neighbor's trees under a streetlight and yours not?  If so,
you've got your answer.  Most fall leaf senescence is induced by
short days.  A streetlight makes the days longer, therefore
the leaves on the "lighted" trees stay green longer.  (BTW, leaf
senescence is an important part of a tree getting ready for the 
winter.  Ones under street lights may get hit harder by early
heavy frost.)

Kay Klier    Biology Dept  UNI

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: hsbrown@lemmy.Princeton.EDU (Scott Brown)
Subject: fishhook cactus thorns
Originator: news@nimaster
Organization: Princeton University
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 20:30:54 GMT

My father has a large fishhook cactus in California.
When viewed from above, the thorns do not point straight
out, but rather, appear to be pointing in a counter-clockwise
direction (or was it clockwise; I don't rember).

I was wondering if this thorn-orientation trait is
determined by genetic or environmental factors.  For
example, do
all of these cacti living in the northern hemisphere
have thorns pointing in one direction and those in
the southern hemisphere point in the other direction?
(This theory is analogous to water spiraling down a 
drain in opposite directions in the northern and southern
hemisphere.)

Any coments are welcome.

Scott
From: chuq@Apple.COM (Chuq Von Rospach)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Wildflower seed sources?
Date: 16 Oct 92 16:37:58 GMT
Organization: Apple Computer Inc., Cupertino, CA

frosty@med.unc.edu (Steve Loechel) writes:

>I recommend Wildseed Farms, located in Texas. Their phone number is 1-800-
>848-0078. They have a very good selection, the quality of their seeds is
>absolutely topnotch, and their prices are much lower than Vermont
>Wildflower Farms, for example.

I just got their catalog. It is impressive and their prices do look quite
nice.

-- 
Chuq "IMHO" Von Rospach, ESD Support & Training (DAL/AUX) =+= Member, SFWA
  chuq@apple.com | GEnie: MAC.BIGOT | ALink:CHUQ =+= Editor, OtherRealms

    I wanna drive the zamboni! I wanna drive the zamboni, yes I do.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: ceci@lysator.liu.se (Cecilia Henningsson)
Subject: Re: Chimeric hyacinths?
Organization: Lysator Academic Computer Society, Linkoping University, Sweden
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 16:22:35 GMT

walker@hpl-opus.hpl.hp.com (Rick Walker) writes:

>In rec.gardens, klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes:

>> Someplace over the weekend I *think* I read about cutting two hyacinth
>> bulbs in half (say an incipient pink and a blue flowered bulb each) and 
>> then swapping halves and binding the two halves together.  This was 
>> supposed to produce a chimeric inflorescence.  

>I have heard that African Violet varieties (Saintpaulia spp.) have been
>produced that have a different genetic material on the top of the leaf than
>on the bottom of the leaf. This is used to achieve unusual decorative effects.

>I suppose this is done by human manipulation of the meristem, but I 
>don't know the technique.  It makes me think that the hyacinth technique
>might work...

Then again, how does the _Rose_of_York_and_Lancaster_ work? In the
rose catalogue I read, it said that this rose has some white flowers,
some red ones and some which are red and white. It was supposed to be
an old rose. I'm afraid I don't have the catalogue here, but it was
from Cedergreens in Raaaa who are supposed to be the most
knowledgeable rose retailers in Sweden.

Translitteration sometimes gives funny results, as in Raaaa,
pronounced Roe.

--Ceci

--
=====ceci@lysator.liu.se===========================================
"Grandfather was a tree. My father grew trux, in 15 different colours.
My mother could sing the double helix song, right into the hearts of
things and change them." Ian McDonald in _Hearts, Hands and Voices_
From: woodley@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Judy Woodley)
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 19:44:19 GMT
Subject: Re: West Coast Questions
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.gardens

Ferndale gets lots of rain and is very near the coast.  When you get out here,
take a trip to Old Town Eureka.  You'll see a wild display of 'painted' 
flowers.  This was done by an Italian gardener who moved to the area and
complained that 'you can't grow anything here because of the salt air'.

You will see lots of rhodedendrons and other moisture loving plants.  A walk
around the lovely old homes in Ferndale will give you an idea.  I also 
suggest a visit to Humboldt State University (about 10 miles north from
Ferndale).  They are mostly known for Forestry, but I bet you could get
some additional information out of the professors in related fields.  The
campus has won awards for its landscaping, too.

Ferndale is a tiny community that is off the track.  Since it is a victorian
town, it gets its share of summer tourists, but for the most part, it is VERY
quiet.  People are generally very friendly and will love to talk about their
gardens.  The folks at Shaw House Inn are especially so.

Good luck.

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: dedek@meaddata.com (Mike Dedek)
Subject: Brown areas on Blue Spruce
Organization: Mead Data Central, Dayton OH
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 20:09:56 GMT

We have some brown areas on our Blue Spruce.  It is also in our
other evergreen.  Any ideas?  Someone at work suggested red spiders,
use diazinon (or something like that).

While you're listening, anyone know what our "other evergreen" is?
It's got long needles (4-5 inches), very light green in color, 
somewhat sparse branches, about 12 feet tall after being topped
by the previous owner.  It's very pretty and almost "glows" in the
dark because of its light color.

Thanks
Mike Dedek
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Hyperaccumulators
Date: 11 Oct 92 19:53:28 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

In article <1992Oct11.234712.18978@massey.ac.nz>, A.S.Chamove@massey.ac.nz (A.S. Chamove) writes:
> Does anyone know of a plant (edible to cows and horses) that will
> concentrate selenium in selenium-deficient soil?
> 

Species of _Astragalus_ and _Oxytropis_ are notorious for this in low-
sulfur soils.  Of course, when the horse or steer gets too much
Se from the locoweeds, you see "moonblindness" and other neurological
symptoms.

Kay
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: A.S.Chamove@massey.ac.nz (A.S. Chamove)
Subject: Re: Forcing oak acorns to germinate
Organization: Massey University, Palmerston North, New Zealand
X-Reader: NETNEWS/PC Version 2c
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 92 01:25:07 GMT

My experience with a variety of oaks is the same as Rodgers.
Just collect them in the Autumn and half bury them on their sides in
some soil or sand.  The root goes down first and then a little shoot.
The shoot only has one or two pairs of leaves the first year but most
seem to germinate with no trouble and no preparation.


-- 
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Arnold Chamove
Massey University Psychology
Palmerston North, New Zealand
From: ahill@boi.hp.com (Andy Hill)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Magnetically Treated Water
Date: 15 Oct 92 22:59:03 GMT
Article-I.D.: mail.Bw6qIG.5zt
Reply-To: ahill@boi.hp.com
Organization: LaserJets by Bill & Dave
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

Perhaps your newpaper has been talking to that crackpot up in Wisconsin
who recently posted the article on fusion in plants?
From: falk@peregrine.Sun.COM (Ed Falk)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: HELP! What to do about insects (flying ants?) in lawn?
Date: 13 Oct 1992 22:36:59 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Mt. View, Ca.
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: peregrine

In article <92582@netnews.upenn.edu> tony@scotty.dccs.upenn.edu (Anthony Olejnik) writes:
>
>They`re extremely easy to kill....
>
>I went to the local `home owner' store and bought more lawn inset killing
>spray...

Jeez, is that how you deal with everything you don't understand?  Kill
it?  Now you've got all those poisons leaching into your soil.  Hope
you don't drink well water where you live.

What looks like "flying ants" are probably just that -- flying ants.
All insects have wings at least at some point in their lives -- that's
part of the definition of "insect" (six legs, three body segments, wings,
etc.)  Normally, ants don't come out into the open during the winged
part of their lives, but I remember seeing it from time to time during
my childhood.

My apologies for any innacuracies, but I'm remembering from 4th grade
science classes.

At any rate, why don't you find out if they're bad before you kill them?
Perhaps they were a beneficial insect.

		-ed falk, sun microsystems
		 sun!falk, falk@sun.com
To be loyal to rags, to shout for rags, to worship rags, to die for rags 
-- that is a loyalty of unreason, it is pure animal (Mark Twain).