HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: pardede@ece.arizona.edu (Ferdinand M. Pardede)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: 430EZ Question
Keywords: EOS10s, 430EZ
Date: 15 Oct 92 01:46:56 GMT
Reply-To: pardede@ece.arizona.edu (Ferdinand M. Pardede)
Distribution: world,local
Organization: University of Arizona Dept. of Electrical and Computer Engineering

I bought a Canon 430EZ Speedlite (Meter Scale) a week ago from B&H. 
Everything was alright, as far as the shipping and handling are
concerned.

I do have questions, however, about the Speedlite itself.
I used it several times with my EOS 10s camera.  When I used it in
Aperture Priority (Av) to give myself flexibility to choose my own
aperture, the speed indicator (i.e. the number telling me the speed the
camera is taking) was blinking.  Similar thing happened when I used it
in Speed Priority (Tv), the aperture indicator was blinking.  I have
read the manual page to page carefully, but no explanation found. 
(There ARE some information about this blinking problem, but the manual
only gives explanations for other EOS cameras, excluding the EOS 10s.)

Can anybody explain this to me?

Thank you,


--F.M.P.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: glp@tfs.com (Gregory Pease)
Subject: Lenses for Nikon for sale
Organization: TRW Financial Systems
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 18:50:27 GMT

Sigma 70-210 AF zoom.  Optically perfect, cosmetically 
very good.  I'll be replacing it with a Nikkor 70-210 f/2.8.  
I paid $150 for this lens used about two months ago, and am 
asking $125 for it.

Nikkor 200mm f/4 NON AI.  This is an older lens, in very good
condition.  $90.

If interested, reply via eMail or telephone:

Gregory Pease
glp@tfs.com
510/704-3133

-- 
Gregory Pease    | "Is that a real poncho, 
glp@tfs.com      | I mean is that a Mexican poncho,
510/704-3133     | or is that a Sears poncho?"  -Zappa
From: yyh@osustat.mps.ohio-state.edu (Yu-Yun Ho)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Need Info on Light Meters
Date: 13 Oct 1992 16:36:46 GMT
Organization: Department of Statistics, The Ohio State University
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: osustat.mps.ohio-state.edu

I am planning on buying a light meter, since each and every
photography book I read mentioned the impotance of a light meter.

My camera has a built-in meter, but under the metered manual mode 
the range of the shutter speed is from 1/2000 to 1 sec, for exposures
over 1 second, I am on my own.

I have no idea what light meter I should get. I am a starter and am
interested in taking all kinds of pictures. 
Any suggestion from you will be highly appreciated.

Yuyun

********************************************************
* Yuyun Ho                                             *
* Department of Statistics, The Ohio State University  *
* yyh@osustat.mps.ohio-state.edu                       *
*                                                      *
********************************************************
From: ka1gt@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (robert.m.atkins)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Differences among lenses of the same Mfr?
Date: 16 Oct 92 14:19:10 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: AT&T

In article <1992Oct16.085356.1485@guvax.acc.georgetown.edu>, dtalmage@guvax.acc.georgetown.edu writes:
> Here's one that should be in the FAQ.
> 
> We read in the FAQ that arguing about lens quality between one Big Name 
> Manufacturer (BNM) and another is a waste of time but what about quality 
> differences among lenses by the same BNM?
> 
> Each BNM offers us a choice of two or more lenses at each focal 
> length.  Each lens has a different maximum aperture.  The FAQ assures us 
> that each is a good lens.  Is one necessarily better than the other?  
> If so, how can I find out without buying both and running my own tests?  
> (BTW, I've searched the last ten years of photo mags with the _Reader's 
> Guide_ without much success.)

Rule of thumb. The faster, more expensive BNM lenses are better (sharper)

> 
> My application is nature photography.  In my case, it's the flowers in 
> my wife's garden.  I use a tripod most of the time.  I use Kodachrome 
> 64, so the faster lenses are attractive to me but I wonder if I'll 
> ever be able to use their speed.

Probably not. For your application you need depth of field, which means you
will be stopping down your lens anyway. It would be a waste of money to use
a fast lens for this application - though it would work just fine.

> 
> In what applications would it make sense to have the faster lenses?
> 

Low light (sunrise, sunset), fast moving subjects or hand holding the lens
(large aperture -> fast shutter speeed), using teleconverters (which
reduce effective aperture), using AF teleconverters on AF lenses (which need
f5.6 in order to AF - e.g. 300/4 + 2x = NO Autofocus, 300/2.8 + 2x = AF OK).
To impress your photographer friends :-) To rid yourself of all that nasty
heavy money in your pocket :-)


===============================================================
Bob Atkins  AT&T Bell Labs  email (direct)  att!clockwise!rma
===============================================================
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: twtan@essex.ecn.uoknor.edu (Tack Wee Tan)
Subject: Sigma 21-35mm VS. Tokina 20-35mm ??
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 07:24:39 GMT
Organization: Engineering Computer Network, University of Oklahoma, Norman, OK, USA

	I'm considering either the Sigma 21-35mm or the 
Tokina 20-35mm zoom lens. Both lenses are excellent from reviews. 
The Tokina is 1mm wider than the Sigma and costs $60 less. But its 
barrel distortion is considerably more than the Sigma. For those 
of you who made a decision over one of the two lenses, could you give
me a review on what you think of the lens and why you bought it?

	If the barrel distortion of the Tokina does not differ too much
from the Sigma, I'm inclined to buy the Tokina because it's 1mm wider and
costs $60 less. 

	All replies will be appreciated. Thanks.

Colin Tan
twtan@essex.ecn.uoknor.edu

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jpglori@srv.PacBell.COM (John P. Gloria)
Subject: Re: Need Info on Light Meters
Organization: Pacific * Bell
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 18:51:22 GMT

In article <1992Oct15.002831.1@cc.curtin.edu.au> zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au (Paul Repacholi) writes:
>In article <1betuuINN5s7@zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu>, yyh@osustat.mps.ohio-state.edu (Yu-Yun Ho) writes:
>> I am planning on buying a light meter, since each and every
>> photography book I read mentioned the impotance of a light meter.
>> 
>
>Since you don't seem to have any odd requirements, I would recomend a Gossen
>Luna Six. It isn't cheap, but: it will last forever and a day, is built like a
>brick, you can get Spot and enlarging atachments, good low light response, the
>batterys last forever ( I got mine in about '75 second hand and I think I put
>new ones in, they are still going strong!! ).
>
>The cost of a good meter is well worth it. You will get decades of use out of
>a good one, so it's worth spending up IMHO.
>
>~Paul
>

The thing about asking for recommendations, we will be more than
happy to supply answers. Typically though, we recommend what we
use. In light of this, I recommend the Minolta III or if you have
the money, the Minolta IV or Minolta Spotmeter F (reflected), the
rest are incident. BTW, I bought my Minolta III for $60, used.
It was and still is, in great condition.  You will not go wrong
with the Minolta III though.
-- 
  ---------  John Gloria - jpglori@sysengr.pacbell.com	--------	
"I do not think that winning is the most important thing. 
I think winning is the only thing."    - Bill Veeck
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: mkuhn@news.weeg.uiowa.edu (Martin W Kuhn)
Subject: Re: Need Info on Yashicamat 124G
Organization: University of Iowa, Iowa City, IA, USA
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 14:33:03 GMT

In article <3825@eastman.UUCP> barnick@mesa.Kodak.COM (William M Barnick x73638) writes:

>I was just a a used camera show in the Rochester area.  I saw several of these
>cameras.  The price ranged from $185-$220.  All of the ones that I saw were
>Yashicamat 124G.  I was wondering how accurate the metering was ???
>Also, is this a reasonable used-camera price ???

The meter is as accurate as any Cds external meter.  (pretty accurate) What
else can I say?
That price range you give seems rather high.  You shouldn't have to pay
more than $150 for a 124G, and prices of $100-$125 should be more 
typical at a camera show.  However, prices to change according to geography,
and I haven't checked Yashica-Mat prices for awhile, so maybe they're
higher now.  However, once you get into the $200 range, you may as well get
a Rollieflex....
However, like I posted before, though, I'd suggest a 124 over the 124G.
From: goldis@news.weeg.uiowa.edu (Al Goldis)
Subject: Re: Opinions on the Canon EF 28mm.
Organization: University of Iowa, Iowa City, IA, USA
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 18:43:24 GMT

In <1992Oct10.205638.9988@walter.bellcore.com> news@walter.bellcore.com writes:

>In article <1992Oct9.215741.5086@news.weeg.uiowa.edu> goldis@news.weeg.uiowa.edu (Al Goldis) writes:
>>
>>As fixed focal length lenses go, in my opinion the EF 28mm is not
>>impressive.  I also have the 28-80/3.5-5.6 USM and the fixed 28mm is
>>better than the zoom, but I don't doubt that the 28-80L zoom is
>>sharper.
>>
>I am interested to know what your "opinion" is based upon. 

1) Primarily on use.  2) A collegue whose opinion I respect also has
this lens and has confirmed my conclusions.  3) Chasseur d'Images
reports (or possibly it was another European magazine).  4) I very
recently picked up Canon's newest EF Lenses brochure.  Even the
picture it shows as taken with the 28mm is not terribly sharp.  (Also,
it describes the 24mm as "exceptionally sharp" and the 28mm as only
"quite sharp"; I don't really think this means anything, but thought
I'd throw it in anyway. ;-)

>I tested out the 28 mm lens, I found that the resolution was greater
>than 100 l/mm in the center for apertures between 4 and 11. The edges 
>also had a respectable 63+ l/mm. This is significantly better than the 
>28-80 USM (none-L).  I don't know how the 28-80 L performs. But I doubt
>if it would be significantly better. 

I have also found that the center was much better than the corners,
but neither were as good as yours. Sounds like you have an unusually
good sample.  Keep it!

>Hmmm...Again, I would like to know the basis of 24 mm and 35 mm lenses
>"definitely better" than the 28 mm lens. 

Chasseur d'Images reports, a couple of personal testimonials, Canon's
pictures in their EF Lenses document.
--
Al Goldis           alan-goldis@uiowa.edu
"Pictures are moments truth, touched by light, that show character."
                          --Annie Griffiths-Belt
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: watters@darwin.genetics.washington.edu (Mike Watters)
Subject: Re: Any info on a "Spirotone 18mm/F3.2" ?
Organization: University of Washington   
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 20:18:02 GMT

I've tried a couple of spirotone products and they weren't too hot.  The
flipside of course is: what's the competition, and the price range?  I was
recently going to pick up one of the Samyang 18-24(or is it 28?) zooms even
though they are not nearly as high quality as the Sigma/Tamaron/etc lenses.
WHY?  The Samyang cost about 1/3 the price.  As it ended, I wound up with
a Minolta 16mm as a real bargain so I use that now, but if the Spirotone
is $100 or so, why not?  The higher quality ultra-wides can't be touched
for less than $300 anyway.  (BTW: Last I checked, the Samyang 18-2? zooms
were about $150 or so new, so you might consider that if on a budget.)

mike

--
Mike
watters@genetics.washington.edu
Dept of Genetics, Univ of Washington  Seattle
(d) 206-543-1934   (e) 206-361-1156 
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: troby@diana.cair.du.edu (Thorn Roby)
Subject: Re: moonlit landscapes / stars (4x5)
Organization: University of Denver, Denver, Colorado
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 92 16:09:54 GMT

There was a good article about shooting in moonlight and including star
trails in Outdoor Photography a few months ago. Sorry, don't have the
date handy. I tried a shot this summer on Agfa Ultra 50, f/5.6, about
five hours under a waning quarter moon, with about two hours of dark
sky - the results were fairly normal color in the landscape, with white
star trails of varying thickness. I haven't tried printing this yet myself
to see whether I can coax some more color out of them. My guess is if you
want good color in the stars you probably want fast film and a dark sky -
my previous attempt at this was on High Speed Ektachrome, pushed, many
years ago, and turned out very pretty. 
Whether the lighting turns out to be high contrast or not depends on
the placement of the moon relative to the scene and the duration of the
exposure. While you lose the fill effect of skylight, the movement of the
moon may compensate for this by filling in the shadows.
There was a table in the article to choose exposure based on the phase
of the moon. If anyone cares, send me email and I'll dig it out at home.
-- 

Thorn Roby                              troby@diana.cair.du.edu
CARL Systems, Inc.                               troby@carl.org   
3801 E. Florida Ave.,Suite D300,Denver, CO 80210 (303) 758-3030
From: malu@imdpy1.im.se (Mats Luthman)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: LINEAR/CIRCULAR POLARISERS ON AF CAMERAS ??
Date: 12 Oct 92 15:37:27 GMT
	<1992Oct4.015129.25674@cello.hpl.hp.com>
	<1992Oct5.040644.9669@cello.hpl.hp.com>
Organization: Industri-Matematik Data AB, Sweden

Is there a simple way to tell wether your filter is linear or
circular? I have a (Hoya) filter that is clearly marked 'CIR', but it
consistently underexposes my pictures with about 2/3 to one stop. (I
have made tests exposures of the same subject with and without the
filter.)

--
Mats Luthman
Systecon AB (A subsidiary of Industri-Matematik AB)
Stockholm, Sweden
From: bjs@RUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Barry Sherman)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Joys of big ones (Was Re: Barnbaum and Sexton like the same rock?)
Date: 14 Oct 92 19:54:24 GMT
Reply-To: bjs@RUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Barry Sherman)
Followup-To: rec.photo
Distribution: usa,world
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

David Talmage writes:

>For you parents/aunts/uncles:  at what age did your 
>kids/nephews/nieces become interested in your large format hobby?

Does enjoying plastering sticky fingers on the front elements of 
lenses count?  Hmmm.  For that matter, my SO's puppy seems to have
been born with an instinctual urge to lick lenses.  :-)

Barry
--


|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Barry Sherman, Amdahl Corp.  | PROGRAM: n. A magic spell cast over a com-  |
| bjs@ruts.ccc.amdahl.com      | puter allowing it to turn one's input into  |
|                              | error messages.  tr.v. To engage in a pas-  |
|                              | time similar to banging one's head against  |
|                              | a wall, but with fewer opportunities for    |
|                              | reward.                                     |
|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Amdahl, being a corporation, is a legal fiction.  Therefore it is incapable|
| of holding, let alone expressing, opinions.  Unfortunately, this has been  |
| said of me as well.                                                        |
|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
From: chorley@vms.ocom.okstate.edu
Subject: Re: Cropping slides
Organization: OSU College of Osteopathic Medicine
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 17:26:56 GMT

In article <26669@castle.ed.ac.uk>, huw@castle.ed.ac.uk (H G J Evans) writes:
> In article <1992Oct7.195453.610@andersen.co.uk> sdpage@andersen.co.uk (Stephen Page) writes:
>>Can anyone suggest a good way to crop slides for projection?
>>
>>I've seen masks in shops, but these look rather limited. The local photo
>>shop suggests using masking tape, which sounds rather unpleasant!
> 
> 
> I always used ordinary kitchen foil sandwiched against the transparency
> in GePe glass mounts. It could be cut, or folded once, to give a good
> straight edge and was still thin enough not to cause flare. The glass
> mounts aren't cheap though.
> 

	Dr. Strabismus (formerly of Weston-Super-Mare) writes:

	DON'T use masking tape! The eternal deity alone knows how much 
damage heating the various and sundry adhesives contained in the tape will 
do to the slide, despite being on the base side (as opposed to the emulsion 
side) The heat will also accumulate in a non-uniform pattern and do strange 
thingies to your precious pictures.
	Don't despair, you steaming Scotsman, ( I suppose if we were in the 
humo{u}r section, masking tape on the slides would eventually dub you "The 
Frying Scotsman" : Americans wouldn't understand - we need BRITNET ) The 
august and highly expensive company of E.Leitz (Inc., Ltd., or Gmbh) used 
to market a tape designed SPECIFICALLY for your purpose. The emphasis is on 
"used to", BUT, E. Leitz was just remarketing a product of the 3M company, 
so I suggest you contact either a full-line Leitz retailer (Hove Camera Co. 
on the Sassenach South Coast springs to mind) or a sales representative of 
3M.
	Beware of using glass mounted slides unless you know that all the 
projectors which you are going to use are equipped with flat-field lenses.
In Kodak-speak, flat field lenses are designated as such by expressing 
their focal length in INCHES (you know what an inch is?) Curved field 
lenses are expressed in millimeters (most amateur/ domestic users have 
Kodak/AGFA/Fuji etc slides in glassless mounts which have the naturally 
curved field of the naked film), which means that a glass mount slide will 
be sharp in the middle and fuzzy at the edges when projected by a curved 
field lens (extrapolate the combinations and vices-versae). Also in Auld 
Reekie, (Edinburgh, for the ignorant) where it can get somewhat cool in the 
winter, be kind to your slides and allow them to warrrmm up to room 
temperature before putting them onto the projector, especially if they are 
masked and/or glass mounted (Newton's rings look nice on Newton).

Postscript: Any of my readers at Wolverhampton Poly ? (whatever it's called 
now? It should be Wolverhampton University Polytechnic Institute {WUPI})

		Dr. Strabismus.
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au (Paul Repacholi)
Subject: Re: Platinum printing?
Organization: Curtin University of Technology
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1992 11:13:58 GMT

In article <cep6DK_00VIB81CUkD@andrew.cmu.edu>, lk10+@andrew.cmu.edu (Leslie Jo Kavchak) writes:
> I am looking for any available information on where to by chemicals or
> precoated papers to do platinum printing.  I have done some non-silver
> processing before so mixing chemicals etc. should not be a problem -
> however I recently heard there is a company producing platinum papers. 
> I would much rather go that route.  Any info greatly appreciated!!
> 
There is the Palladio Co INC, in cambridge Mass. (617)547-8703. They are the
only ones I have heard of. Given the properties of Pt printing and the poor
keeping qualities of the paper, you may be beter off doing you own.

PS Never throw out Pt paper. Keep the scraps and old print to recover the Pt.
It is amazing how much you can acumulate over the years if you keep at it.

~Paul
From: cssnet@vms1.iscs.nus.sg (Postmaster)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Monopods
Date: 16 Oct 92 20:24:00 GMT
Organization: National University of Singapore Dept. of Computer Sc.
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41


	I already have a tripod, but am considering buying a monopod
	as a lighter and handier alternative. I would like to know
	if a monopod is effective against camera shakes, say at speeds
	of 1/4 or 1/2 secs. What is the slowest shutter speed that
	can be safely used with a monopod ?

	thanx for any replies.
From: fiddler@concertina.Eng.Sun.COM (steve hix)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Press Camera Questions...........................
Date: 7 Oct 1992 20:04:13 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Mt. View, Ca.
Distribution: na
NNTP-Posting-Host: concertina

In article <1992Oct6.221738.1021@nntpd2.cxo.dec.com> feldman@hal9k.cxo.dec.com (james feldman) writes:
>I've never seen a 1/1000 of a second leaf shutter.  Even today, the fastest
>commericially made leaf shutters just go up to 1/500 (copal/seiko/prontor #0). 

Rollei some time back announced (they may even be shipping) some leaf-shutter
lenses that go to 1/1000.  Carbon-fibre leaves, etc., for the 6008.

On the other hand, I may be hallucinating.  I well overdue for a vacation.


--
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Of making many books there is no end...  |  What's wrong with chasing 
                       -- Eccl. 12:12    |  nebulae till 3 am?  |-(
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: chorley@vms.ocom.okstate.edu
Subject: Re: Screw sizes (was: U.K. (over)Pricing !)
Organization: OSU College of Osteopathic Medicine
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 17:47:03 GMT

In article <7673@skye.ed.ac.uk>, jkk@aiai.uucp (John Kingston) writes:
> In article <1992Oct9.081620.11605@news.jit.dec.com> diamond@jit.dec.com (Norman Diamond) writes:
>>In article <7645@skye.ed.ac.uk> jkk@aiai.uucp (John Kingston) writes:
> 
>>>(and possibly U.S. screw sizes for tripods too)

 
> Well yes, many UK measurements are given in feet and inches, others in metres
> and millimetres, and some in chains, furlongs, hands, fathoms, or other
> obscure units :-). My comment above was that U.S. tripods may not fit European
> cameras (or vice versa); this was based on an item advertised in an American
> brochure (Vienna Camera's, I think) for a converter which would fit a European
> screw-size tripod to an American camera.
> 
> JK
> 
> John Kingston,                                
> Knowledge Engineering Methods Group,         

The heart of the problem is that many people do not have the engineering 
knowledge  to group the facts that the U.S. screw size for a tripod is in 
fact 1/4" British Standard Whitworth

Sorry Mr. Kingston, I really meant no offense but your title really was too 
good to miss.

Return flame humbly accepted.
David Chorley.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: z8tah@zohar.gsfc.nasa.gov (Theresa A. Held)
Subject: Help ripped off need replacement for olympus om-1
Keywords: 
 
Reply-To: z8tah@calvin.gsfc.nasa.gov 
Organization: NASA/GSFC NCCS
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 18:16:29 GMT

My house was broken into in the last two weeks.  One thing that was missing
was my camera and 28mm wide angle and 70-200 telephoto - zoom lenses.

The insurance company is recommending I get a minolta x-9.  I've been told
they don't make them any more.  

In general the insurance company has been very helpful.

I would appreciate any suggestions on cameras that would be comparable.
I do realize most cameras are auto now, but if possible I'd like the
manual over-ride function.

Please email me any responses.

Thanks in advance.

Theresa

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: josh@Happy-Man.com (Joshua_Putnam)
Subject: Shutterbug OM-1 writeup?
Reply-To: Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com
Organization: Happy Man Corp., Vashon Island, WA 98070-7399
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 21:04:45 GMT

I got the latest Shutterbug in the store this weekend for
the mailorder ads, and noticed a letter to the editor
praising an article on the Olympus OM-1.  Unfortunately, I
don't have back issues, and the local library only gets Pop.
Photography.  Does anyone out there remember the article?
Was it good?  If anyone still has that issue around, would
you mind sending me a copy (I'll pay postage/photocopy if
you want)?

Thanks in advance.
-- 
 Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com    Happy Man Corp.  206/463-9399 x102
 4410 SW Pt. Robinson Rd., Vashon Island, WA  98070-7399  fax x108
 We publish SOLID VALUE for the intelligent investor.  NextMail OK
Info free; sample $20: Send POSTAL addr: Solid-Value@happy-man.com