HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: WHERRYD@wsuvm1.csc.wsu.edu
Subject: CAD and project design
Organization: SYSTEMS & COMPUTING
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 92 19:00:18 PST

I recently acquired my dream home computer system and I'm interested
in drawing up some of my wood project plans with a CAD system.  But
what to use?  GenericCAD? AutoCAD? EasyCAD? TurboCAD? DesignCAD? And
the list goes on!  My minimum requirement is that the system check
dimensions for me, that is, a total dimension is equal to the sum of
its component dimensions on the drawing.  But I would rejoice in a
system that would build exploded isometric views from three elevation
views (if that's possible).  I imagine AutoCAD is the most flexible, but
it also carries a steep learning curve that I'd like to avoid unless
it's absolutely necessary.
 
I was intrigued to find a list of woodworkers communicating digitally.
Seems like a natural place to find some folks who use CAD as well.
 
Thanks in advance for any advice and/or experiences.
 
David Wherry
wherryd@wsuvm1.csc.wsu.edu
From: harold.klee@synapse.org (Harold Klee) 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Source for mirrors
Date: 17 Nov 92 20:41:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: SYNAPSE BBS - GATINEAU, QUEBEC - 819-561-4321
Reply-To: harold.klee@synapse.org (Harold Klee) 

Hello all:
A couple of questions for you experts out there, since I'm fairly new to
recreational woodworking.  My interests lie mainly in building small
objects (boxes, clocks, etc.).  One of the things I would like to try to
build is a kaleidoscope, since I also collect them.  However, I am
having a tough time finding first surface mirrors.  Does anyone out
there know of a source for these.  I would prefer to "shop Canadian"
simply because of the hassles involved in buying mail order out of the
country, but will consider ordering from the USA.  Dealers in Ottawa
don't know what first surface mirrors are, let alone stock them.

Second question-- I am building a shop made lathe (by the time I'm
finished, it will have cost me almost as much as a new one, live and
learn!!).  I would like to know what you turners out there consider a
very BASIC set of turning tools for starting out, and what sizes of
gouges, etc. I should buy.  Thanks for your help.

Harold Klee.
---
 . SLMR 2.1a . My reality check just bounced.
                                                                                                                                
From: markw@hpcss01.cup.hp.com (Mark Williams)
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 22:42:33 GMT
Subject: Re: Problem: Blotching on Natural Cherry Finish
Organization: Hewlett Packard, Cupertino
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

From: koenig@galileo.IFA.Hawaii.Edu (George Koenig)

I can second your recommendation of using a filler stain and offer
my recipe for successful finishing of cherry.
First day: Sand to 220 and wipe on a quick even coat of filler stain,
wipe it off quickly unless you desire a darker finish.  This is a good
time to check the wood for any further surfacing.  After several hours
I brush on a coat of natural Watco Danish and just let it soak in over-
night.
Second day: Brush on a second coat of oil and rub in with 400 wet/dry
paper.  Use a sponge between the paper and the sanding block to get 
an even sanding.  I don't really rub it very much.  Wipe off the 
excess and let it dry overnight.
Third day: Rub the finish with extra fine steel wool dipped in mineral
spirits (paint thinner).  Rub with the grain and keep things wet with
the thinner.  Wipe and let it dry for a few hours.  Finally rub on 
a final coat of the filler stain and wipe off.  When working with stain
work quickly to keep the coat even. 
     The finish should be very smooth with some hardness from the Watco
without the oiliness and shimmer of a normal watco finish.  The grain 
is still all there but more sedate.  It is a very satin finish but 
could probably be polished up a bit..  
     The brand of stain I've used most recently was 1pt of creative
finishes provincial maple mixed with 1/2 pt of minwax cherry.  The
minwax is not a filler stain and was used as a colorant.
     Please let me know what brand stain you use as I dont have
a local source for creative finishes filler stain any longer and
local sources are extremely limited in the best of circumstances so
anything I can get info on is a big help.
From: clarke@acme.ucf.edu (Thomas Clarke)
Subject: Re: 115-piece drill set
Organization: University of Central Florida
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 18:17:06 GMT

In article <By31qs.5Ks@ipars.cts.com> scotto@ipars.cts.com (Scott O'Connell)  
writes:
> 
> I'm looking for a 115-piece drill bit set and am confused about the different
> imported sets.  I've seen the following:
> 
> 	China			$34
> 	Taiwan			$73
> 	Vermont American	$214
> 	Hansen			$275
> 
My two cents (Note:  I am a cheapskate at heart.)
A couple of years ago I bought a set of twist drill bits from 
China. I thought, "What the hell, its only $40.  If they're junk, 
live and learn".

To my surprise they were not junk. I had feared something like
the set of 9 imported bits I bought as a kid for $.79 (big bucks 
for a pre-inflation twelve year old) and which proved to contain
steel about as good as the average paper clip.  Maybe the Chinese 
bits are not as good as Hansen, but they are as good as the bits 
you get at the local hardware store.  

It's nice having the right number drill to use as a pilot for
a threaded hole without driving to the hardware store.

The worst thing about the set is the sheet metal folding case it 
came in; the various bit holding sections don't move easily enough 
or open completely :-)
--
Thomas Clarke
Institute for Simulation and Training, University of Central FL
12424 Research Parkway, Suite 300, Orlando, FL 32826
(407)658-5030, FAX: (407)658-5059, clarke@acme.ucf.edu
From: rhaar@albert.cs.gmr.com (Bob Haar)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Router Table Inquiries
Date: 16 Nov 92 13:12:14 GMT
Reply-To: rhaar@albert.cs.gmr.com
Organization: G.M. Research and Environmental Staff

In article 15620@adobe.com, bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds) writes:
|>Stan Armstrong writes
|>> If it is ease of cutting mortises you are after, consider one of the
|>> horizontal router mounting jigs that allow you to mount your router
|>> at the back of the table with the bit parallel to the top. The 
|>> height of the bit above the table is regulated by swingine the router
|>> about a pivot. This would let you use your plunge capability and
|>> thus eliminate the need to pivot the workpiece.
|>
|>So, we clamp the wood to the table, plunge the router horizontally,
|>then unclamp the wood so we can slide it along the vertical fence, 
|>then clamp the wood back down, and then unplunge the router?
|>
|>Sounds awkward to me. 
|>
|>And, if you don't clamp the wood down, you've got to have a hand holding
|>it while you use the other to plunge the router in. 
|>
|>Sounds dangerous to me.
|>

I am not sure about the mortising table design Stan was discussing,
but I built one from the WoodSMith plans. In this one, you
don't plunge the router, you move the wood. 

The big advantage of this setup is that the work piece is resting flat
on a table surface. This makes it much easier to control. And you can
clamp temporary guides pieces to the table to act as stops.


---
	Robert Haar               InterNet : rhaar@gmr.com 
	Computer Science Dept., G.M. Research and Environmental Staff
DISCLAIMER: Unless indicated otherwise, everything in this note is
personal opinion, not an official statement of General Motors Corp.
From: kamooni@pb2esac.uucp (Ken Moonitz)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: planer/jointer blade adjustment
Date: 19 Nov 92 23:01:27 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Pacific*Bell ESAC, Oakland, CA.

In article <1992Nov18.164353.23096@wuecl.wustl.edu> dls@wuee1.wustl.edu (Donald L. Snyder) writes:
>My Delta 12" planer and 6" jointer are well overdue for blade
>replacement.  I see several options for approaching the task and
>am interested in learning about the experiences others have had.
> Here are the choices I've identified so far.  Maybe others can
>be suggested.
>
>
>2.  Magnaset.  These are widely advertised devices that use
>magnets on a pair of arms at each end of the blade to hold the
>blades in place while set screws are tightened.  Sounds
>straightforward, but the cost is high.  Really high since
>separate Magnasets are required for the planer and jointer.  My
>just received catalog from Woodworker's Supply has these listed
>at $71.95 for the planer and $41.50 for the jointer (assuming
>steel and not carbide blades).  Each is a substantial fraction
>of the cost of the planer or jointer itself.
>
>3.  Dial indicators.  The use of  these for setting planer and
>jointer blades is described in issues #70 (I haven't seen this
>yet) and #87 of FWW.  This seems attractive because one dial
>indicator can evidently be used for setting the blades of both
>machines and can be useful for other purposes too.  I don't know
>the cost of a dial indicator of the type used in the FWW
>article, which includes an electromagnet to hold it in place.
>
>
>
I use a magnetic base for a dial indicator to set my jointer blades.
It works just like Magnasets but cost a whole lot less, you can get
them with a 1" travel dial indicator for about $30 and get a dial
indicator out of the deal as well to use to check blade or arbor
runout.   The bases have a on/off switch on them so you just put the
blades in the jointer, put the base on the outfeed table just over-
hanging the blade, turn the magnet on and presto... the blade comes
right up to the base.  Snug up the jack screws and away you go.
				     Have fun...
                                                Ken
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis)
Subject: Masur birch
Organization: OSF Research Institute
Date: 18 Nov 92 16:23:28

Does anyone know where to find Masur birch veneer?

Masur birch is what is used on a lot of Biedermeier furniture.  It
seems to be a particular figure on European birch.  Masuria was a
district in eastern Poland (now in Belarus, perhaps?).

	-s

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: tonyb@juliet.ll.mit.edu ( Tony Berke )
Subject: Re: Heat for workshop? What to use?
Organization: M.I.T. Lincoln Lab - Group 43
Date: 19 Nov 92 09:43:22

My shop has a gas-fired forced-air heater that takes outside
combustion air and vents through the wall.  I'm kinda wondering if the
sawdust is accumulating in the heat exchanger, but so far I've had no
problems.  Anyway, the unit cost me about $500 through my local
propane dealer -- they periodically pretty much give appliances away
so you'll use their gas.  It was quite inexpensive to run -- about $30
a month to heat 1000 square feet in the middle of a New Hampshire
winter.  Of course, my shop is probably a bit tighter than a
west-coast garage, but then again, it isn't as cold over your way, either!


Tony Berke
From: holtt@OCE.ORST.EDU (Tim Holt)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Steve Learns to Cut Dovetails
Date: 23 Nov 92 17:34:40 GMT
Article-I.D.: gaia.1er4ngINN98v
Organization: College of Oceanography, Oregon State Univ
NNTP-Posting-Host: sid.oce.orst.edu

Go Steve Go!  Another hand dove-tailer speaks out!

There seems to be this "percieved complexity threshold" to do dovetails 
by hand.  Not to broaden the Norm/Roy argument, but watching Norm do
dovetails with his router and dovetail jig makes it look hard -- in the
sence that it makes you think you need a (good) router, dovetail bits, and
a (good) jig.  Now if you watch Roy do it, it's another story.  He just
hacks them out with a saw, marking guage, and chisel, and by golly, it
works!  I think for me the two "secrets" of dovetailing that I had to
discover were:  (a) it's not that hard to do it by hand, and (b) the
tails don't have to be identical and perfect.  The ONLY thing that has
to be right on a tail is the "length" must be equal to the matching
board's thickness, and the sides of the cuts must be square.  If you
have tails with all kinds of crazy angles, it really doesn't matter,
beyond some structural considerations and percieved aesthetics.  This is
true, of course, because you use the tails as a pattern for the anti-tails 
(what ever you call them).

Comments?


              |   ||        Tim Holt / Marine Technician / RV Wecoma
+--==o_____+-/|--+||        College of Oceanography / Oregon State
_____|  R/V WECOMA  ~-----/ Corvallis, OR USA, 97331-5503	(503)737-4447
+------------------------'  holtt@oce.orst.edu	
From: grega@hpwala.wal.hp.com (Greg Anderson)
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 17:20:12 GMT
Subject: Re: problem with planer
Organization: The Village
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Reply-To: grega@hpwala.wal.hp.com (Greg Anderson)
UUCP-Path: hpwala!grega

In article <1992Nov11.215634.5540@desire.wright.edu> 
fichtenbaum@desire.wright.edu writes:

>I have a 12" Delta portable planer.  I was planing some stock when
>I noticed that one edge was thinner than the other.  I have reset
>the knives but am still having a problem.  

I too have recently purchased this planer and I also have seen this problem.
Actually, what I see is "sniping" on both ends of the work (ie,
both ends get planed a bit thinner than the middle).  Try calling the Delta
service number (their 800 number is given in the manual).  When I called,
the helpful service guy knew exactly what I was seeing and gave me a short
list of adjustments to make, none of which involved the blades (which you have
already tried adjusting).  I wish I could tell you if the adjustments solved
the problem, but unfortunately I haven't had the time to actually try them
yet.

The Delta folks seem real nice though ;-)

I would be interested to know how it turns out for you, and whether anyone else
has had problems with this particular tool.  I must say it was a little
disappointing to have to play with the thing right out of the box, so to
speak.  It's my third Delta tool (the others being a jointer and drill press),
and so far I've been pretty happy with Delta quality.

Good luck,
============================================================================
| grega@hpwala.wal.hp.com |   Greg "you can call me Greg" Anderson         |
============================================================================
| "Denial ain't just a river in Egypt."                                    |
|   -- Al Gore quoting Carl Sagan quoting Dire Straits.                    |
============================================================================
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Painting end-grain
Date: 23 Nov 92 06:48:48 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <1992Nov23.032407.28894@ulysses.att.com> smb@ulysses.att.com (Steven Bellovin) writes:
>I tried painting some pine end-grain today; not at all to my surprise,
>the paint was sucked in, leaving almost nothing visible on the
>surface.  (This was a white latex paint, if it matters.)  How should I
>seal it first?  Just give it more coats of the same paint?  A primer?
>A sanding sealer?

Hi Steven,

More coats would do it, but a primer of some sort is a better idea.

One of the problems with pine is pitch leakage.  Even if you get a
thorough coating of latex paint over it, I've seen pitch leakage
go right through.  And, in one particular case, I saw *4* coats
of latex paint disappear into window trim (admittedly, there were
dampness problems with that bit of trim).

I was always taught to use shellac over pine.  And I've had
good luck so far putting latex paint or any other kind of paint over it.

I consulted with a pro furniture finisher, and he imparted a neat trick
to guarantee sealing "problem" pine - use a hair dryer or heat gun to force
pitch out of the wood, then wipe it up with turpentine.  *Then* cover it
with a coat or two of shellac.

I've tried it on a table made out of moderately knotty, and very "pitchy"
pine and it worked great.

While the heat gun may be overkill in your case, it's a technique worth
filing away for future reference.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: 115-piece drill set
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 20:12:42 GMT

clarke@acme.ucf.edu (Thomas Clarke) writes:
:> 
:>I'm looking for a 115-piece drill bit set and am confused about the different
:>imported sets.  I've seen the following:
:> 
:> 	China			$34
:> 	Taiwan			$73
:> 	Vermont American	$214
:> 	Hansen			$275
:> 

: My two cents (Note:  I am a cheapskate at heart.)
: A couple of years ago I bought a set of twist drill bits from 
: China. I thought, "What the hell, its only $40.  If they're junk, 
: live and learn".
: 
: To my surprise they were not junk. I had feared something like
: the set of 9 imported bits I bought as a kid for $.79 (big bucks 
: for a pre-inflation twelve year old) and which proved to contain
: steel about as good as the average paper clip.  Maybe the Chinese 
: bits are not as good as Hansen, but they are as good as the bits 
: you get at the local hardware store.  

I agree with this. Unless you are doing a lot of drilling, these bits
seem to be fine. I have never bought one that was not hardened well,
although I have found ones that were sharpened better.

: It's nice having the right number drill to use as a pilot for
: a threaded hole without driving to the hardware store.

Yep. I use them for general non-critical drilling. If I need to drill
a precision hole, I will use my expensive bits.

Bill
From: ron@topaz.bds.com (Ron Natalie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Roy Underhill is a good turner.  Norm ain't.
Date: 18 Nov 1992 14:13:27 GMT
Organization: BDS Systems
Distribution: world, usa, na
NNTP-Posting-Host: topaz.bds.com

> This was in distinct contrast to watching Norm Abhrams hacking at a lathe 
> on The New Yankee Powertool Advertising Show a few months ago.  Norm
> used scraping cuts, and basically abused the wood into shape.

I don't know, I've never seen Norm use anything but the lathe duplicator.
I didn't think he owned any lathe tools other than that.

-Ron
From: davidw@hpindda.cup.hp.com (David Wetchler)
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 19:24:52 GMT
Subject: Makita Cordless Drill For Sale
Organization: HP Information Networks, Cupertino, CA
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

Makita Driver/Drill for sale

	Makita 9.6 Volt Drill
	Low Speed (0-400) High Speed (0-1100)
	6 Torque Settings
	Keyless Chuck
	2 Batteries
	  Charger
	  Metal Case 

 	$90 or Best Offer

        Makita 7.2 Volt - Drill Only
        $25 or Best Offer


David Wetchler
davidw@cup.hp.com
(408)447-2366
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: Magnetic Featherboard
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 19:57:42 GMT

bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds) writes:
: > 
: > Since I have a highly smooth and waxed table top, it is easy for me to
: > let the board wander away from the fence. With a sharp blade, I do not
: > even notice, until too late. The second featherboard - behind the blade
: > on finish cuts - eliminates this problem.
: 
: Rather than performing a second "finish" cut so that you can use two
: featherboards, I recommend using one of the rip-fence-mounted holddowns
: (Shophelpers, Ripstrate, Leichtung, etc.) that not only hold the wood down
: on the table, but also against the fence. As Steve says, these can even 
: be located between the sawblade and the fence in many circumstances.

Since I frequently make two cuts anyway - it is no problem.  I do use one
of the commercial holddowns, on occasion. At other times, I use a feather-
board clamped to the rip fence.  It is not high tech - but it is inexpensive
and effective.

I prefer to use the multiple featherboards when my work piece is narrow. I
use the commercial holddown for wide ripping cuts.

Bill
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ostapiak@helios.physics.utoronto.ca (Orest Ostapiak)
Subject: Re: Make Brass look Old
Organization: University of Toronto Physics/Astronomy/CITA
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1992 03:50:06 GMT

In article <1992Nov20.114714.9323@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com> sabat@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com writes:
>I need some antique brass cabinet hinges but can only find bright brass ones.
>Does anyone know of a way to severely dull/corrode them to make them look like
>antique ones?
>
>Ted		Sabat@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com


  I learned this great trick for antiquing unfinished shiny brass from a
machinist at school. Just expose the unifinished brass surface to smoke. I
used the smoke from a smouldering piece of pine to give a beautiful antique
finish to a brass light dimmer switch ( I wanted to replace the cheap
plastic dimmer dial with something more elegant).  The antique finish that
I obtained this way has stood up well to steady use.
-- 
Orest Ostapiak    graduate student
ostapiak@helios.physics.utoronto.ca
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jrdailey@cbnewse.cb.att.com (j.rex.dailey)
Subject: Re: Hand tool sources?
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 01:56:22 GMT

From article <1992Nov12.124155.23164@acheron.uucp>, by clarke@acheron.uucp (Ed Clarke/10240000):
> We have lots of information in the faq(s) about power tools, but little on
> hand tool sources.  Where can I pick up a good jointer plane?  I've borrowed
> an old Bailey #7, but have to give it back sometime.
> 
> What are the good names in current metal planes?  Stanley was always so-so,
> and I don't know of any other current brands except Record from Garrett-Wade.

I don't know where you get your information Ed, but Stanley tools were NEVER 
so-so (until possibly quite recently).  As a matter of fact, the old 
(1875-1955) Stanley tools are (IMHO-and MANY OTHERS) MUCH better than 
anything built today.  Just went to an auction this weekend and picked up 
an old Stanley 81 Cabinet Scraper and Stanley 45 Multiplane (without cutters) 
for $45.  You can't buy 1/4 of a quality plane for this price these days and 
all they need is a little cleaning up.  

> Although GW is quite expensive, they usually have good stuff.  How much work
> will I have to do to get a new Record plane into operating condition?  (i.e.
> is the sole flat?)

Unless you pay the BIG BUCKS for the $425 planes offered by GW (I can't
remember the names of the planes), quite a bit is needed to tune up a new 
plane.  Start with flattening the plane sole, leaving the frog screwed into 
the plane.  Then flatten the back of the iron (to a mirror finish), sharpen 
the iron (same finish), and then go after the cap iron.  File and hone the 
front edge of the cap iron flat, straight and true, so it sits VERY flat on 
the back of the plane iron.  If not, planed shavings will jam between the 
plane iron and cap iron and you'll have to stop and tear everything apart 
because the shavings will get caught in the mouth of the plane.  Make sure
the mouth of the plane is rectangular.  If not, file it so.  Adjust the 
frog so the mouth of the plane is correct for the planing you want to do 
(open mouth for rough planing and closed mouth for thin shavings.  I can't 
remember if I have left anything out, but if you want, there are some good 
books on this subject - most published by Tauton Press.

> 
> Ed Clarke
> clarke@watson.ibm.com
> clarke@acheron.uucp
> -- 
>                | One was a deaf mute who shovelled coal, worked  
> Ed Clarke      | the bellows, and exorcised the minor demons of
> acheron!clarke | puberty by raping chickens.
>                |               Hugh Cook - Lords of the Sword

Have read many books on this process and it is very tedious but VERY 
rewarding work.  BTY, this process will take you quite awhile so enjoy
your work!

Rex Dailey
jrdailey @ cbnewse.cb.att.com
From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 18:13:19 GMT
Subject: Re: Roy Underhill is a good turner.  Norm ain't.
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server