HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: robb@ais.org (Robert Gonyer)
Subject: New amp from Infinity
Organization: UMCC
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 23:15:30 GMT

What do you guys think of the new class D amp from Infinity?
The recent test of It I saw claimied it was small, very effecient
(80%), and put out 75 watts by 2. (4 ohm).  Those were mfg specs..
When actually tested, it put out closer to 100 wpc at clipping.
It didint heat up, and it had no problem with great tight bass and subs.
Check it out, the latest Car Stereo Review.  The author raves about
it.  I hope the actually mass produce it.
See ya
-Robb

-- 
/~~~~~~///~|~~~~~~~~~* 5.0 Ford Mustang II *~~~~~~~|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~\
\  \\\///  |  Stillwater Design-Pioneer-Infinity   |                         /
/   \XX/   |   Aiwa-Cerwin Vega!-Sherwood-Technics | robb@141.211.206.16    /
\__Amiga!__|_______________________________________|_______________________/
From: iwang@aludra.usc.edu (Ing-Yih Wang)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Car for sale
Date: 26 Jan 1993 04:18:59 -0800
Organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA
NNTP-Posting-Host: aludra.usc.edu

		============

		Car for sale

		============

	I have a nearly brand new car to be sold off. The following is

its characteristics.



	- '91 Eagle Talon

	- 2,000 c.c.; 16-Valve

	- Multi-point injected

	- Standard 5-Speed manual overdrive

	- Two-door

	- The price is o.b.o.



Please call (714)362-4230 Christy Wang

If the answer machine is available, please leave some messages.
From: meiser@cps.msu.edu (Matthew E Meiser)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: adding caps and a center channel
Date: 21 Jan 93 16:53:04 GMT
Reply-To: meiser@cps.msu.edu (Matthew E Meiser)
Organization: Dept. of Computer Science, Michigan State University
NNTP-Posting-Host: atlantic.cps.msu.edu
Originator: meiser@atlantic.cps.msu.edu

I have another question. Will adding this cap cause any drain on my battery?
I drive my car only about once a week while I am at school so it doesn't
get a lot of time to charge.
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: bell@hops.larc.nasa.gov (John Bell)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Box Builder Question?
Date: 25 Jan 1993 16:46:31 GMT
Organization: NASA Langley Research Center
NNTP-Posting-Host: hops.larc.nasa.gov

In article <8239@dove.nist.gov> keys@starchild.ncsl.nist.gov (Lawrence B. Keys) writes:
>
>I have a question for the sub box building experts.  Will the 
>response of a ported box remain unchanged if the dimensions are
>changed?

Relativley minor changes to the box volume will not change the response of the
system by itself, but it will change the port tuning. The port will have to be
cut to a different length in order to tune to the same frequency. If the port
is not re-tuned, it will change the response of the system. If you have access
to Perfect Box or some other simulation program, you can find out just what
the changes will be and what length the new port should be cut to.

-----
John Bell
NASA Langley Research Center
bell@bell.larc.nasa.gov
From: cjm9321@hertz.njit.edu (The InfoMan)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: adding caps and a center channel
Date: 24 Jan 93 06:22:47 GMT
Organization: New Jersey Institute of Technology, Newark, N.J.

>
>What about putting the cap in line before the fuse?  Assuming your wiring can
>take the heat it shouldn't be a problem.  
>
>What suprises me is that manufacturers don't build caps into their amp
>designs...  Seems like it would make sense.
>
>
>Steve

	I suppose you mean putting it in parralell before the fuse.
	Well, yes you can but one problem, it would mean that the cap
would be in the engine compartment. There is too much heat there and the
cap would overheat and destroy.

	Something like that, anyway it would be a very dangerous thing
to do.


-- 
M A D E   .   . .---. .---.    \  Buy U.S.A. products,  /    xxxxx ==========
  I N     |   |  \    |___|    <     It's YOUR job.     >    xxxxx ========== 
 T H E    |   |    \  |   |    <  Christopher J. Massa  >    ================
-------   `---' `---' '   `    / cjm9321@hertz.njit.edu \    ================
From: donrm@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Don Montgomery)
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 23:56:19 GMT
Subject: Re: >>> how do i get taurus' antenna down? <<<
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Rosa, CA
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car

In rec.audio.car, dml7@navaho.hpl.hp.com writes:

>     i've just acquired a 1991 ford taurus, and have just realized something.
>     i can't seem to get the <beep> antenna to go down!  the manual is of no

It's a distinct possibility it doesn't go down at all.  If it's all one rod
(in other words, not "stepped" or telescoping), it most likely unscrews.
The late-model Ford Mustang has a one-piece non-retractible antenna.

Don Montgomery
donrm@sr.hp.com
From: DEVILBISS@OCTAVE.LARC.NASA.GOV (Dave)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Unwanted Autoreverse
Date: 21 Jan 1993 19:41:48 GMT
Organization: NASA Langley Research Center, Hampton, VA  USA
Distribution: world
Reply-To: DEVILBISS@OCTAVE.LARC.NASA.GOV (Dave)
NNTP-Posting-Host: lockheedmac6.larc.nasa.gov

 In article <1993Jan21.031225.12015@sfu.ca>, kchau@fraser.sfu.ca (Kwok Kwong Albert Chau) 
writes:
> Hiya,
> 
> I've got an old Clarion cassette receiver (8925RT) with an autoreverse
> tape section.  When playing a tape, on occasion it autoreverses in the
> middle of the tape.  This is not due to bumps/vibrations.  I have also
> noticed this in a friend's portable stereo (boom box variety).
> I'm sure others have experienced this too and was wondering what the
> (probable) cause is.  Dirty drive belts?  Motor lubrication? etc.
> 
> Email or posts to this group would be appreciated.
> 
> THanx,
> Albert Chau
> kchau@sfu.ca

I had the same problem with my Clarion receiver.  I believe it is caused by bad tapes.  
Sony tapes were the only ones to give me problems.  TDK and other brands worked fine.  
I also found that the problem was worse during the cold months.  I wish I had that Clarion 
back though . . . The stock receiver in my JEEP won't give me my tapes back anymore.  
Too bad there are no locks on the beast or I would consider putting in a new unit.  For now, 
I don't feel like supporting the local theives and I'm too lazy to pull my receiver in and out 
every time I use the car.  My loss I guess.

________________________________________________        
        If we were not crazy, we would go insane.
        If we could not laugh, we would go insane!     J. Buffett
________________________________________________
From: jcg2@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (JASON GIRARD)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Boomy bass in homeade sub box: help!
Date: 26 Jan 93 23:15:22 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

I recently built a sub box for two Pioneer 10" subs, with a little help from
Perfectbox.  Later, I'll be using them in my car, but since I'm in college, I
have it hooked up in my room.  The problem is that I hear the box producing
high bass frequencies louder than they should be (I have the subs X-ed over at
70 Hz, 12 dB/oct.).  It really isn't bothersome; I just wanted to know if
there's anything I can do to lessen the boominess (more insulation,
perhaps?...).  Here are the dimensions:

                    interior box volume: 7.88ft^3
                    height: 24"
                    width: 39.375"
                    depth: 14"
                    ports (2): 2.65 (L)x3.0 (D)  (should ports be this short?)

Also, I had one heckuva time finding MDF for the box and ended up using 3/4"
plywood.  No lumber stores around here carry MDF.  Can someone tell me where I
might be able to find it?  Same thing with Polyfill...or is there a comparable
brand I can use for insulation?  I heard fiberglas[tm] works well, but I've
also heard it can break loose and damage the subs.  Any suggestions?

                        Thanks, sub-box experts,

                                Jason (Girard)
-- 
                      Anarchy-it's the only way to live!!!
                               jcg2@lehigh.edu
From: getman@acsu.buffalo.edu (Steven R. Getman)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: adding caps and a center channel
Date: 22 Jan 93 21:57:25 GMT
Organization: UB

In article <20JAN199316312680@rosie.uh.edu> st1q9@rosie.uh.edu (Devine, Della M) writes:
>In article <77108@apple.apple.COM>, lagnaf@Apple.COM (John "LJ" Czlonka) writes...
>>In article <1jfgmlINNfi1@msuinfo.cl.msu.edu> meiser@cps.msu.edu (Matthew E
Meiser) writes:

Stuff deleted

>The reason they recommended a resistor on the positive side was to
>limit the current the cap pulled the instant it was powered on.
>I didn't think it was a good idea until i first installed my
>caps on my system. (just 240KmF for 220 watts).  I just hooked up the
>positive to the terminal, screwed it in, then hooked up the negative
>the instant i touched the ground to the cap my fuses blew..
>mind you this was just the first one and it blew two 30amp fuses for this
>amp. (it uses two 10guage wires with 30amps fused each for some reason..it's
>an old , 3 years, linear power 2202).
>this blew minmy mind!!!  60 amps!!!  te next one oi chatrged up with
>a 10 ohm 10 watt resistor inline and it waarmed the resistor up but didn't
>pul but about 1 to 12..that is 1.2 amps. (my delete dont work right now!)
>anyway, the resistor saved me the 3 dollars for two new fuses again....
>
>william c devine ii
>reply to: devine@pvhep.vpamu.edu
>
>that is....devine@pvhep.pvamu.edu
>(damn delete key!)
>or wdevine@andrew.cea.pvamu.edu

What about putting the cap in line before the fuse?  Assuming your wiring can
take the heat it shouldn't be a problem.  

What suprises me is that manufacturers don't build caps into their amp
designs...  Seems like it would make sense.


Steve
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: ajones@dadd.ti.com (Alan Jones)
Subject: Dual Voice Coil Subwoofers
Reply-To: ajones@dadd.ti.com
Organization: Texas Instruments, Inc.
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 16:25:19 GMT

Can someone briefly explain to me when to choose a dual voice coil subwoofer
versus a regular single coil?  It seems to me that they make these for folks
who want to install only a single sub, correct?  And when you do this, you
simply connect both left and right channels to the sub, right?

I'm confused because I was shopping this past weekend for subs and found a
place which is clearing out it's Earthquake subs.  They're selling the EQ-12
for ~$60.  (Anyone out there have one of these??)  The salesman there said 
that if I hooked up the left and right channels of my amp the sub would tear
itself apart.  Instead, he said I need to add a gizmo to one of the channels
which would change the phase by 180 degrees such that both channels are in
phase.  Does this make sense?

BTW, the amp is a Hafler MSE80.  It is a 4 channel amp rated at 20x4 or 80x2
bridged (into 4 ohms).  What I want to do is run it 80x2 into the 2 coils
of a single dual voice coil sub.  The MSE80's owner's manual is somewhat 
ambiguous about this, but I'm pretty sure that when the amp is bridged to 80x2
the two channels are stereo, not mono.

---
sincerely,
Alan Jones  /  Texas Instruments, Dallas, TX  /  email=ajones@asic.sc.ti.com
From: keys@starchild.ncsl.nist.gov (Lawrence B. Keys)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Selecting Crossover Points
Date: 21 Jan 93 19:43:56 GMT
Organization: National Institute of Standards & Technology

I've finally completed (for now) my car audio system and it sounds
excellent (to my ears).  This process began about 18 months ago.

I have a Denon 8770 CD/Tuner, Infinity CS-5 (5 1/4 woofer & 1"
tweeter) in the front, Infinity CS-6 (6 1/2 woofer & 1" tweeter) in
the rear deck, Pheonix Gold AX406A Crossover, a/d/s PS5.2 (2x40) summed, 
a/d/s PQ10.2 (4x40) and a single JL Audio 12" sub in a 2.5 cubic ft.
box.

My question is, how do i select crossover points?  My crossover
uses 3 plug-in chips to set the crossover points.  Currently it has
two 125 Hz and one 90 Hz chip.  I am satisfied with the x-over point
for the sub, but i feel that some midbass is missing from my system.

These chips cost $12.00 each, not a lot of money, but i don't want
to but any more than i have to in order to get the right sound.

Do i need to have my system sonically evaluated to determine which
chip to buy?  Without the knob selectable x-over points it seems
like it will be a trial and error type of selection.

BTW, if it is important my xover is running in 2 channel mode. It is 
an 18db/octave unit. It has switches to set the sub in either stereo or
mono, it has phase switches for the sub as well as a remote level control
for the sub.
                                                  
                                                  
                                                  .  
                                                 /                
Larry                            __/    _______/_                 
keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov       /                  \               
                          _____     __     _____    \------- ===
            ----------- / ____/   /  /   /__  __/              \
         /     ___    /  / ___   /  /      / /    ____          |
        |    /      \/ /__ /  | /  /__  __/ /__ /       \      / 
        /___         \_______/ /_____/ /______/            ====OO
            \       /                           \       /         
                -                                   -
       ------------------  lb.'n till it Hz  --------------------            

From: kirk@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Kirk Lindstrom)
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 21:52:53 GMT
Subject: Re: adding caps and a center channel
Organization: Shredding the water of SF Bay, HP-OCD
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car

One "needs" a resistor temporarily to charge the capacitor to the battery
voltage.  At least it is a good idea.  A cap starts out at 0V and the Battery
is 12.8V.  Connect them with a wire of 0.01 Ohms total resistance and
you momentarily draw 1280 amps so changing fuses isn't going to help
unless you use a 30 AMP SLOW BLOW fuse which is what I did.

Resistors are OK, but you have to remove them after you'ved charged the
cap else you might as well not bother adding the capacitor!

I've thought about putting a discharge LED on the cap for when I take the
battery out for some other reason, but haven't. 

Kirk out
From: elef@smarmy.Eng.Sun.COM (elaine 'beano' leffler)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: thanks, and it's done...
Date: 25 Jan 1993 21:20:54 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems
Distribution: world
Reply-To: elef@smarmy.Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: smarmy
Keywords: help, pioneer, cd/speaker setup


awhile ago i posted here as a neophyte seeking advice on how to run
a pioneer cd player with a 2-channel amp to 4 speakers.  thanks to
all who responded with recommendations, diagrams and simple
explanations.  i orginally intended to pop a pioneer DEH680 into a
car that was pre-wired for 4 speakers, but i ended up buying a 
different car *and* a different stereo than i'd originally intended.
my new honda is now equipped with a pioneer DEH880, and it sounds
great (to my admittedly NON-audiophile ears, anyway).  i have to
admit, the concept of a remote for an in-dash single cd unit seems
REALLY silly to me (like i'm going to turn over musical control to
someone riding in the back seat?  everyone KNOWS the driver is the
music-master), but overall i love the stereo.  thanks again to everyone
who responded (i'd be sending notes all day if i tried to thank y'all 
individually), it was much appreciated.

i am finally with-cd on the road.  

elef
From: bds2@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (BRAD DEVOR SHALIT)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: What causes shut off pop?
Date: 26 Jan 93 17:43:21 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

Hello all-

I just finished installing my new system (most of the previous system was
stolen).  The problem is that I get shut-off pop from only one amp (there are
two).  If I turn the volume down all the way and tun off the system at the
head unit, as opposed to shutting off the ignition, there is little or no pop.

I have heard shut-off pop before, but never in a system I have done (I used
install at a few shops before I went to school and during the summer).

Can anyone help?  It would be appreciated.

Thanks
-Brad
-- 
________________________________________________________________________
 It is said that Bill Clinton is considering |  Brad Shalit
changing the Democratic Party emblem from a  |  Box D203 UC#29
donkey to a condom, because it stands for    |  Lehigh University
inflation, protects a bunch of pricks, halts |  Bethlehem, Pa. 18015
production, and gives a false sense of       |  1(215)882-9921
security while being screwed.                |  E-Mail: BDS2@LEHIGH.EDU
From: laflisc@wkuvx1.bitnet
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Punch 30 vs. sd260
Date: 25 Jan 93 11:02:11 CST
Organization: Western Kentucky University, Bowling Green, KY

In article <1993Jan24.170032.3933@ultb.isc.rit.edu>, adn6285@ritvax.isc.rit.edu writes:
> Of the above 2 amps, which one do you think would be better to power a
> single 4 Ohm sub?
> What are the specs of both in bridged mode?
> Any experience with the new SD series of Fosgate amps? ( I know Kirk has
> one of those)

I also have some RF amps.  Three Punch 150 actually.  One running a
pair of RF 5.25 and tweets and the other two bridged to a 12 M&M each.
They are good amps.   I love 'em.  
Now to answer your question, I dont really know.  BUT, I do know that
RF is going to stop making the old Punch series and start with a new
series.  They are in this months CarAudio & Electronic.  They are
kind of oval looking and are 40x2,100x2, and something else.  I cant
remember the exact values but know they are coming.

> On the other hand people coll them FosBREAK for a reason?

Never heard this myself...

> Mike.S

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Scott C. Laflin		 | "High powered autosound systems may      |
| Western Kentucky University	 |  produce sound pressure levels well      |
| Bowling Green, Kentucky        |  over 130 dB.  Use common sense and 	    |
|				 |  practice safe sound"  		    |
|                                |                         Rockford Fosgate |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Organization: Central Michigan University
Date: Friday, 22 Jan 1993 09:17:33 EST
From: John Foster <32HNBAK@CMUVM.CSV.CMICH.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Car wont start when amp connected

From: ychoi@unixg.ubc.ca (Yen Choi) writes:

> I have this unusual problem.
>
> I have partially installed an amp in my trunk, and the only wires that are
> connected are the power, and ground.
>
> BUT when I try to start my car, it wont start.  at first I thought it was
> because my battery was dead, so I got a jump. The car started fine, but
> the next day, it would not start.  So I disconnected the power cable from
> the amp and the car started just fine.
>
> Could it be that my battery was not charged enough to start the engine (
> I thought that the amp would not drain power, the remote wire was not
> connected)
>
> Any explanations would be really appreciated.

It seems as if there is a power draw from the amplifier.  When you got
a jump the battery from the other car did the job your battery didn't
do.  After driving around for a while your battery got charged back up.
Since the jump worked, there isn't any grounding of wires that might
short out the starter or anything starting-related.  As far as the car
not starting then starting when you disconnected the power line...
have you started the car on its own before, with the amp hooked up?
If not, then the amp is probably drawing too much away from your battery,
which might be a little weak to start your car AND run your amp.  Test
your battery with a battery tester to see how good it is.

This is kind of short, but make sure there is no power being drawn when
the amp/stereo system is off.  An easy way to test this is to disconnect
the negative battery cable, and get some 12V light (like a tail light, one
of those small jobs) and press the negative cable to the side of the light
and touch the bottom of the bulb (where the connections are) to the negative
battery ground.  If the light goes on that means you have a power draw some-
where, likely your amp.

John




Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: RYNA10@waccvm.corp.mot.com (Jay Kopycinski)
Subject: Re: Punch 30 vs. sd260
Organization: Motorola
Date: 26 Jan 1993 09:21:18 MST

------------------------- Original Article -------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: adn6285@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Subject: Re: Punch 30 vs. sd260
Reply-To: adn6285@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 04:56:51 GMT

In article <1993Jan25.224633.26379@schbbs.mot.com>, RYNA10@waccvm.corp.mot.com (
>------------------------- Original Article -------------------------
>Also, I can pick up a brand new sd260 for $100. On the other hand I saw a
>brand new Hi-Fonics Cupid for $160 (Leader Marketing show). Should I break
>down and go for Cupid? (money is a desiding factor).
>HELP!
>Mike.S
>
>******** WHERE CAN YOU GET A NEW SD260 FOR $100? ********
>
>Jay
>
>

Want their phone #?
*******SURE ....THE NAME AND NUMBER PLEASE......THANK YOU.....Jay

Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: brian@navaho.eel.ufl.edu (Brian Gentry)
Subject: Re: Selecting Crossover Points
Organization: UF EE Department (student)
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 93 17:20:42 GMT

In article <8204@dove.nist.gov>, keys@starchild.ncsl.nist.gov (Lawrence B. Keys) writes:

|> My question is, how do i select crossover points?  My crossover
|> uses 3 plug-in chips to set the crossover points.  Currently it has
|> two 125 Hz and one 90 Hz chip.  I am satisfied with the x-over point
|> for the sub, but i feel that some midbass is missing from my system.

Is the crossover a model with 4 highpass channels and 2 sub channels?
If so, I guess that your highpass points are set to 125 Hz and your low pass
points are at 90 Hz.  You may want to try lowering the highpass points to 
90 Hz as well, but I've found that it's hard to get good midbass in a
car without using an enclosure.  You may want to try damping the area 
behind the woofers in the doors in order to minimize the cancelations.

|> These chips cost $12.00 each, not a lot of money, but i don't want
|> to but any more than i have to in order to get the right sound.

If these plug in modules are anything like the ones that Audio Control
uses, then you can make them yourself.  Again, IF they're the same (and
they probably are) they are just a few resisitors (all the same value).
You could call Phoenix Gold and find out (it may even be in the manual--
it's in Audio Control's manual).

|> Do i need to have my system sonically evaluated to determine which
|> chip to buy?  Without the knob selectable x-over points it seems
|> like it will be a trial and error type of selection.

I think your ears will tell you which point is right.  Try it without
the highpass crossover at all and see if you have better mid-bass.  If it's
only a little better, then you're probably getting some cancelation in the
doors.

|> BTW, if it is important my xover is running in 2 channel mode. It is 
|> an 18db/octave unit. It has switches to set the sub in either stereo or
|> mono, it has phase switches for the sub as well as a remote level control
|> for the sub.

It's sort of strange that an 18 dB/oct crossover would have a phase switch
for the sub.  This is normaly done on 12 dB/oct xovers to compensate for
the 180 deg. phase difference between the high pass and low pass channels.
Check to make sure that this is actually an 18 dB/oct xover.  If it does
turn out to be 12 dB/oct, try reversing the phase.

			Brian L. Gentry
		   (brian@sioux.eel.ufl.edu)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car