HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: harris@sdd.hp.com (John Harris)
Subject: Re: Barkley (Bartley??) Paste Stain
Reply-To: harris@sdd.hp.com (John Harris)
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, San Diego Division
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 16:31:37 GMT

In article <1992Apr7.143843.7729@infonode.ingr.com>, lwb@vols.NoSubdomain.NoDomain (Larry Barnes) writes:
|> Do any of you know a source for Barkley or Bartley (not sure of the spelling) original
|> cherry paste stain? If so, please post name, address and phone number.
|> 
|> Thanks in advance.

Mason & Sullivan
586 Higgins Crowell Rd.
West Yarmouth, MA 02673
(800) 933-3010

Bartley Collection Limited (I'm pretty sure you can order direct)
3 Airpark Drive
Easton, MD 21601
(800) 227-8539

Our local Shopsmith store here in San Diego also carries the stains.  Perhaps
your local one does too.

I would also be interested in any comments from those who have used the
Bartley products.  I have used the paste varnish with good results.

John Harris
From: daved@convex.com (David Dorfman)
Subject: Re: Bookcases
Organization: CONVEX Computer Corporation, Richardson, Tx., USA
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 17:56:08 GMT
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by a user at CONVEX Computer
              Corp. The opinions expressed are those of the user and
              not necessarily those of CONVEX.

In <1992Apr14.152538.28715@den.mmc.com> bsimmons@tracer.den.mmc.com (Brian Simmons) writes:
>|> [Asks for help on building a bookcase.  In addition to the usual questions he
>|> also notes he has neither time nor tools, and lives in an apartment.]
>|> 
>|> Go and buy a premade bookshelf.  Use your electric drill as a screwdriver 
>|> and put it together.  You might even want an unfinished one that you can 
>|> finish, but you can get cheap fake veneer shelves fairly inexpensively.
>I did just that. I was not impressed. If you buy shelves of
>sufficient quality so that they will last years, 6 of the size I
>want will probably run me over $2000. Anything cheaper and all
>you get is that CHEAP SHIT (pardon my language), slapped together
>particle board with just enough craftsmanship to get the thing sold.
>Maybe somebody can point me to a manufacturer of good quality. The
>ones I find fall apart in less than a year after I put my encyclopedia
>and some magazines on them. I suppose someone will suggest to put less
>weight on them and I guess if I wanted to have a separate bookshelf for
>each book I would but I don't have enough room or money to do that. 
>As you might guess, I am not impressed with the quality of today's
>mid-range furniture. Too many staples.

As you said in your original post, you have little time, money space
or tools. This leaves no ideal solution.

Stop preaching to the choir, I'll bet most people who read this newgroup 
are not to impressed with the state of furniture design in america 
today. Furniture is designed in standard styles to sell easily, the
most important design criteria appear to be:

1) Reduced materials cost.
2) Reduced shipping and warehouse size
3) Reduced shipping weight ( see #1)

As a result most commercial bookshelves will not bear up under stress.
Since the cost of materials for the dimensions you propose will usually
run over 100.00 per unit and the use of plywood will require tools 
you have no access to ( If you are willing to live with ugly
exposed plywood why not consider the cinder block and board approach
afterall) I suggest you focus your efforts on finding a local 
manufacturer of solid wood bookshelves made from unfinished Pine.

I have found these in the past for approx 150.00 or less. I would look
around the local Campuses. Stores which manufacture inexpensive 
futon beds useually have some durable cheap bookshelves as well.

Solid wood furniture is not cheap, even if you make it yourself.
Tools cost money, time is required, and a decent workshop is almost 
essential for large projects or multiple units. 

Do yourself a favor and shop wisely, OR MAKE THE INVESTMENT IN TOOLS
AND TIME.

I don't mean to discourage you, bnut as an engineer I am sure that 
you are aware of design tradeoffs.

Good Luck 
Dave
From: hofer@rogue.llnl.gov
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Source for 220V Belt Sander
Date: 6 Apr 92 22:29:43 GMT

I'm going to be involved in a workproject in Spain and need to bring along a
220 V. 50 Hz belt sander.  It has to be a heavy duty type.  Only one I've seen
so far is a Bosch 4x24", 220V in N.Mex. Woodworking Supply.  Price: $239.

Any experience along these lines, any other sources you know of?  Thanks for
you help.

Thanks
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel)
Subject: Jointer Suggestions Wanted.
Originator: howardr@hplsdum.col.hp.com
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 18:26:17 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division

Come June I want to buy a good 6 or 8 inch long bed jointer for
about a grand.  Delta makes a 6 inch 3/4hp jointer model 37-154 
in this price range and I am sure that it would be the `safe` way 
to go.

Jet makes a 8 inch 2hp jointer model JJ-8CS that can be had for 
about the same price.

The Jet seems like a lot more bang for the buck.  But is it a
quality tool?

Does anyone have any personal experiance with either or both of
these tools?

What other makes of jointers should I be looking at?


-- 
 | Howard Rebel          
 | hpcsos.col.hp.com
 | Phone: 719-590-5075   
 | Fax:   719-590-5976   
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jfieber@sophia.smith.edu (John Fieber)
Subject: Re: Bookcases
Organization: Smith College
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 17:45:59 GMT

In article <3478@moscom.UUCP> de@moscom.UUCP (David Esan) writes:
>Go and buy a premade bookshelf.  Use your electric drill as a screwdriver 

[snip]

>2. If you buy a router, you still need some sort of saw to cut the wood.
>   Costs range from $100 to $400 for a circular saw.

What ever happened to reliable non-electric technology?  With a $25
handsaw, a square, sandpaper and a little practice you can cut wood
every bit as square and smooth as you can with a circular saw.  I know,
I recently bought a handsaw and built a bookcase.  :)

I figure that people have done just fine for centuries without power
tools and often produced better furniture/houses/boats/etc.

(Okay, I did shell out some bucks for a router, the debate of doing
the joints with a chisle versus buying a new toy didn't last long.)

-john fieber
jfieber@sophia.smith.edu
From: mschrank@mitre.org (Mike Schrank)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: REQUEST: Sources for Bulk Hardware (screws, nuts, bolts, etc.)
Date: 1 Apr 92 18:37:28 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: The MITRE Corporation


Hello all,

I'm running quite low of essential hardware (nuts, bolts, screws, nails, 
etc.) in my workshop and I'm getting tired of buying them in pkgs of 6, 8, 
12, etc. at the local hardware stores.  I always seem to be buying them 
in emergencies and I also know I'm getting ripped off.

I need some "good" (meaning reasonable cost and high quality) sources for 
buying hardware and fasteners in bulk quantities.  I'm hoping there are 
some mail order houses who provide such items.  Or if someone knows of 
sources local to the Washington, DC metro area (DC, Maryland, or northern Virginia) that I could go to in person.

Send any information via e-mail to: mschrank@mitre.org

Thanks for your help,
Mike Schrank
e-mail: mschrank@mitre.org
From: JEFF-G@cup.portal.com (Jeffrey H Griffin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: SCROLL SAW PATTERNS
Date: 7 Apr 92 09:05:12 GMT
  <77740001@hpcvia.CV.HP.COM>
Distribution: usa
Organization: The Portal System (TM)

<Good luck at finding any-one to respond to your request. I also posted to th
<group a while back looking for any information on scroll saw patterns and sa
<my post slowly die of old age. If you get any other postings besides mine yo
<should count your blessings.
 
I suppose it never occured to either of you to go to a bookstore or large
home supply center and *buy* a book or two..
There are ads for scroll saw patterns in many of the 'wood_oriented' magazine
as well.
 
I for one am not about to spend time creating ASCII images of patterns that a
readily available.
From: dave@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com (Dave Fujii)
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 06:03:39 GMT
Subject: Re: Cordless Drill
Organization: Hewlett Packard - Boise, ID
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

Mario,

Looks like we have had a very similar progression in our cordless drill
ownership.  I started with the Makita 6070DW 7.2V driver/drill, and
recently acquired the Panasonic EY6205BC 12V driver/drill.  I do not
think I see a reduction in battery usage per charge -- of course, I am 
doing things with the Panasonic that I would never dream of doing with
the Makita, so the comparison is hard to make.  If your battery appears
to not hold a charge and you bought it locally, I'd go back to the store
and see if you can trade the battery for a fresh one or at least borrow
one to see if other batteries provide the same performance.  Even if you
did get the drill elsewhere, I would hope that the local authorized service
center would help you get to the bottom of the issue.

BTW, I also would recommend the EY6205BC.  It ties with my Elu router,
Milwaukee Super Sawzall and 1/2" Magnum drill, and Bosch 1581VS jig saw
as being the finest equipment I've ever owned.

Dave Fujii
Development Engineer
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: lwb@vols.NoSubdomain.NoDomain (Larry Barnes)
Subject: Barkley (Bartley??) Paste Stain
Organization: Intergraph Corporation, Huntsville, AL.
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 14:38:43 GMT

Do any of you know a source for Barkley or Bartley (not sure of the spelling) original
cherry paste stain? If so, please post name, address and phone number.

Thanks in advance.



Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jchen@ctt.bellcore.com
Subject: Re: Cordless Drill
Reply-To: jchen@ctt.bellcore.com
Organization: Bell Communications Research
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 92 20:09:39 GMT

I have had a 9.6V Panasonic for two years. I am extremely happy with it.

I have used it for building a deck, some outdoor furniture and numerous
home repair. Never did I need more torque. There were times that I hit
a knot, typically the screw head would slip before the motor could be
significanly slowed down. I don't see a good justification to spend 
the additonal $60  to get the 12V model. I think the 9.6V has a torque
of 143 lb-ft while the 12V has a 159 lb-ft according to Panasonic published
spec.

The only occasional complain I have is that it takes 2 hours to recharge.

-- 

C. Jason Chen                 
**************E-Mail: jchen@ctt.bellcore.com
**************V-Mail: (908)699-6993
**************P-Mail: 444 Hoes Lane, 1E229, Piscataway, NJ
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: au455@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Douglas S. Caprette)
Subject: Re: Bent sawblade tooth
Reply-To: au455@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Douglas S. Caprette)
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 92 20:16:56 GMT


In a previous article, mckim@sdd.hp.com (Jim McKim) says:

>I have a question regarding trying to straighten out a bent tooth on a
>circular saw blade. Here's the situation:
>
I've never tried something like this myself.  Taht said, I think that
one concern you need to have is that you don't weaken the tooth, or
especially the bond between the  tooth and the carbide tip.  It would be
bad news to have the carbide tip fly off and hit you in the face.  A
safe
approach would be to grind off the bend tooth, tip and all, leaving a
gap between adjacent teeth.  Chances are very good that this will not
disturb the ballance enough to be noticeable.  Let us know what you try,
and how it works.


-- 
--
Bertal H. Steinein                  "I am not a number.
au455@cleveland.freenet.edu          I am a free man."  -- #6
Chagrin Valley Astronomical Society
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: john@jbean.b29.ingr.com (John Bean)
Subject: Re: biscuit jointers
Reply-To: b29!jbean!john@ingr.com
Organization: Intergraph Corporation
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 13:47:49 GMT

In article <1992Apr2.204030.12533@clpd.kodak.com>, obrien@coag.serum.kodak.com (John O'Brien (x37279)) writes:
|> I have recently (8 weeks ago) ordered the Freud Biscuit Jointer from  WW supply.
|> It didn't show up in my order but said it was backordered and would be shipped March 16th. Around that date I recieved a notice saying it would be shipped April 9th. I phoned WW supply and was told that they get shipped when they come in and prioritized b|> y the date of your order. They would not tell me where I was on the list. 
|> 	I have been contimplating cancelling my order and purchasing a "BJ" from a different vendor. If anybody has any preferences, I would like to hear from you. Also, one thing I liked about the Freud was that at the time I placed my order, they were offering|>  a $30 rebate which brought the price down to $130. This seems very attractive for a BJ. Should I continue to wait or look around?
|> If I look around, which models look good?
|> 
|> John O'Brien  -  Fello Woodworker!


I had the same problem with Trendlines. After about a month, I gave up and
changed my order to the Porter-Cable 555. It was in stock, and they shipped
it 2nd day air "free" because of my wait. Overall, I'm pretty happy with
the PC. My only complaint is that there is still a little bit of slop in 
the fence adjustment. Its not hard to square or anything, but you would 
think that they would have perfected it when they redesigned it. 

The book "The Biscuit Joiner Handbook" (I don't have it here, but it is
sold in all of the catalogs, and some bookstores) is an excellent book
to give a feel for the operation of all of the popular models of biscuit
joiners. It also has a useful techniques section with lots of pictures.

Good Luck.

======================================================================
= John Bean							     =
= Intergraph Corp, Huntsville AL	john@jbean.b29.ingr.com	     =
======================================================================
From: bamford@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (harold.e.bamford)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Designing bookcases.
Date: 7 Apr 92 20:09:53 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T

In article <1992Apr7.015439.5342@sactoh0.sac.ca.us> jhp@sactoh0.SAC.CA.US (Jim H. Puga) writes:

>What is the prefered method for the back of the bookcase?

>I was thinking of using quarter-inch veneer plywood but I don't
>want to pay for having both sides finished.  I haven't been able
>to locate plywood with veneer on one side.  Does such a thing
>exist.

Something I have done with great success is to use 1/4 inch PANELING.

Has to be reasonably decent quality material, but it is easy and looks
great!

-- Harold Bamford
#include <usual.disclaimers>
From: erickson@atlas.cs.nps.navy.mil (David Erickson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Adjusting planer knives
Date: 13 Apr 92 18:46:32 GMT
Reply-To: erickson@taurus.cs.nps.navy.mil (David Erickson)
Organization: Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey CA

I just bought an old Boice-Crane 12" x 5" planer.  The knives are way
out of adjustment.  Do I need a magna set or equivalent, or are there
good lo-tech methods to adjust the blades?

Also, does anyone know how to get parts & manuals for Boice-Crane
tools?  I understand that they were purchased by Wilton in the '60's,
but the phone number given me by Wilton was disconnected.

-Dave Erickson
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: burt@techbook.com (Burt Keeble)
Subject: Re: What happened to Roy?
Organization: TECHbooks of Beaverton Oregon - Public Access Unix
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1992 05:30:30 GMT

In article <92103.155658DMEJJ@CUNYVM.BITNET> <DMEJJ@CUNYVM.BITNET> writes:
>I live in New York City, where we have three public t.v. stations to choose
>
>from.  While watching Norm the other day I realized that The Woodrights Shop
>
>has'nt been on in a long time.  Is the show on anywhere else or is it just
>
>not on in the N.Y.C area anymore?  I seem to recall someone mentioning
>
>Daniel Schlissel
>
>

Roy isn't on PBS in Oregon either.  I really miss that show.  And Norm
comes on while I'm at my woodcrafters lab (what a coincidence).  Of
course, I tape Norm 8-).
-burt

-- 

If there isn't any light at the end         ,__c
of your tunnel, try self-delusion;        _-\_<,
It works!    burt@techbook.com...........(*)/'(*)
From: thomas@BAEPV4.NCSU.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: first dovetails
Date: 16 Apr 92 03:13:16 GMT
Reply-To: thomas@BAEPV4.NCSU.EDU
Organization: North Carolina State University


Just thought I might post about a resent victory.

This past weekend I cut my first dovetails that actually worked,            
and it was one of my most pleasurable woodworking experiences to
date.  In the past I have concerned myself mainly with building 
really good furniture, but have always been constrained by things
like "we need a new bed NOW!" Things normally turned out well,       ll
especially the ash pencil post bed, but thats another story.

But this past weekend I had some spare time and decided that I needed
to build something just for the fun of it, and decided to try a 
version of the dovetailed bookcase that was suggested here awhile
back.

...It turned out great.  I was able to actually hold a coversation 
with my wife while I worked, and I didn't feel like I was losing half
my hearing for not wearing ear plugs.  I think I might actually learn
to like those ultra low voltage tools (chisels :) ).

One question to those more experienced than myself in dovetails...
Do you normally mark and start cutting from what might be called 
the inside of the box, or the outside? Does that make sense?

Scot Thomas    thomas@bae.ncsu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jhp@sactoh0.sac.ca.us (Jim H. Puga)
Subject: Designing bookcases.
Reply-To: jhp@sactoh0.SAC.CA.US (Jim H. Puga)
Organization: Sacramento Public Access Unix, Sacramento, Ca.
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 92 01:54:39 GMT

I want to build some bookcases and have a question.  

What is the prefered method for the back of the bookcase?

I was thinking of using quarter-inch veneer plywood but I don't
want to pay for having both sides finished.  I haven't been able
to locate plywood with veneer on one side.  Does such a thing
exist.

The other method is applying the veneer directly to the back of
the bookcase.  The veneer would be the only backing and am wondering
if this would be strong enough to work.

Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------
- jhp@sactoh0.SAC.CA.US    What else can I say?             -
-------------------------------------------------------------
From: ron@pilot.njin.net (Ron)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Designing bookcases.
Date: 17 Apr 92 21:02:44 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

Gee, you must have better plywood suppliers than we have here.  The
stuff here has decent veneer on only one side.  The backs usually
have substantial blemishes (although they are of the same species as
the fronts).

-Ron
 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: doshay@ursa.arc.nasa.gov (David Doshay)
Subject: Re: Which saw, Table or Radial?? (long)
Organization: NASA-Ames Biocomputation Center
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1992 00:53:30 GMT

In article <1992Apr1.191301.1809@adobe.com>, bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds) writes:

a few pages of comments deleted ...
|> 
|> I haven't seen these "EVERYONE/blanket" recommendations. Here's a sample of  
|> what I have seen:
|> 
|> David Doshay writes
|> > If you need to rip, you need a table saw. Unfortunately, if you need to 
|> > cross cut, the table saw is not a good choice....
|> > It is a bit of a drag, but if you cut wood in both directions you need
|> > two saws. If the money is not there for two new power tools, decide
|> > which way your hand-held circular works best for you, and buy the big
|> > saw accordingly.

And I would like to add that I never use my Radial Arm Saw any more. I 
bought a Hitachi sliding compound miter, and I love it. It is safer, more
accurate, it stays square, and it is portable.

David		doshay@ursa.arc.nasa.gov
From: bobk@hpcuhc.cup.hp.com (Bob Kentwortz)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1992 00:59:01 GMT
Subject: Re: Sliding table refit...
Organization: Hewlett Packard, Cupertino
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

Beismier (sp?) carries after market versions of both of these.  The sliding
table was mentioned (briefly) in (I think) Shop Notes last issue.  I have
their rip fence and it is wonderful.  If you can find a used tools place 
near you, you may be able to find these used.

bobk@cup.hp.com
From: flato@icefloe.dartmouth.edu (Gregory M Flato)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: first dovetails
Date: 17 Apr 92 13:46:18 GMT
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH

>2. Frid says to cut the pins first. Ian Kirby says cut the tails first. I used
>to do them Frid's way but I switched recently. I make the tail cuts on my table
>saw, using pencil marks. Then I remove most of the waste with a coping saw or
>scroll saw. I clean up with the chisel, undercutting slightly (white oak is
>HARD). Then I mark the pins and cut with a backsaw ...

I have also gone through the same transition - I used to do them Frid's way
but found it difficult to cut the tails accurately by hand. I always had
trouble getting the saw started at the correct angle. I now do them much the
same way as you describe, cutting the tails first using the table saw with
the blade set at the appropriate angle. By clamping a stop block to my
sliding table and laying the tails out symmetrically I can make two cuts
on each piece with each setup. You only have to mark one of the pieces to use
in setting up the stop block. I then nibble out most of the waste between
the tails with a few 'freehand' cuts on the table saw (still using the sliding
table). I can cut lots of tails very quickly this way and have only a little
cleaning up to do with a hand chisel. I then lay out the pins from the tails
using a pocket knife to mark them accurately (I then trace over the knife
marks with a pencil to make it easier to see). I cut the pins by hand with
a dovetail saw and chisel - this is a much easier cut to make by hand for
me because the saw is always vertical. With a little practice this goes
quickly. I would probably use a bandsaw if I had one, although I think it
would be easier to make a mistake this way.

Greg
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bsimmons@tracer.den.mmc.com (Brian Simmons)
Subject: Re: Bookcases
Organization: Martin Marietta Astronautics, Denver
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 15:25:38 GMT

In article <3478@moscom.UUCP>, de@moscom.UUCP (David Esan) writes:
|> In article <1992Apr13.165508.5560@den.mmc.com> bsimmons@t4cma-gw.den.mmc.com (Brian Simmons) writes:
|> 
|> [Asks for help on building a bookcase.  In addition to the usual questions he
|> also notes he has neither time nor tools, and lives in an apartment.]
|> 
|> Go and buy a premade bookshelf.  Use your electric drill as a screwdriver 
|> and put it together.  You might even want an unfinished one that you can 
|> finish, but you can get cheap fake veneer shelves fairly inexpensively.
I did just that. I was not impressed. If you buy shelves of
sufficient quality so that they will last years, 6 of the size I
want will probably run me over $2000. Anything cheaper and all
you get is that CHEAP SHIT (pardon my language), slapped together
particle board with just enough craftsmanship to get the thing sold.
Maybe somebody can point me to a manufacturer of good quality. The
ones I find fall apart in less than a year after I put my encyclopedia
and some magazines on them. I suppose someone will suggest to put less
weight on them and I guess if I wanted to have a separate bookshelf for
each book I would but I don't have enough room or money to do that. 
As you might guess, I am not impressed with the quality of today's
mid-range furniture. Too many staples.
--
-     Brian Simmons                       Send Email Here :
-     Martin Marietta Astronautics        bsimmons@t4cma-gw.den.mmc.com