HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re:  Machine shop work
Date: 25 Jan 93 16:53:55 GMT
Organization: LLNL

In article <1841@pacvax.UUCP>, fields@pacvax.UUCP (Daniel A. Fields) writes:
> 
> Can this hole be re-machined and then fitted ( possibly with
> some type  of "sleeve" ) to stop the "wobbling"?

Yes, very easily.

>  Also do machine shops 
> accept this type of work? 

They do, but you don't want to pay the charges.  Usually at least
$50/hr, with 1 hr minimum.  Find a nice guy, do it yourself, or
buy another one.

Doing it yourself: bore the old hole out 1/64 undersize then ream to
nearest fraction OD bronze sleeve you can find that fits both your
prospective OD and whose ID fits the shaft.  Force fit the bronze
sleeve, ream ID to shaft diameter.  You may also have to clean up the
shaft.  Do that before selecting ID.

It can be done, but it's probably not economical to pay a pro to do it.
From: cf036@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (G. Gary Preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: want to drill and thread holes
Date: 25 Jan 1993 01:23:00 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc10.ins.cwru.edu


Phil's comments about refillable bottles and acetylene may
unintentially lead someone into a very dangerous situation.
What many people don't know is that acetylene does not need
oxygen to explode.  If the mean free path inside a pressurized
acetylene container exceeds a certain distance (dependent
upon pressure), acetylene will spontaneously decompose, with
liberation of lots of energy (Bang!).  This caused chemical
explosions (unexpected) in early German plastics plants until
they learned to fill large bore acetylene piping with small
diameter tubes to limit molecular mean free path before walls
were encountered.

Modern acetylene tanks have acetone-soaked fiber inside and
the gas is dissolved in the acetone.  The solution mechanism
acts like the free space Phil talks about in propane 2
phase cylinders.  However, it is extremely dangerous to treat
acetylene like propane.  It should be stored only in specifically
designed acetylene cylinders and probably only by
professionals who know what they are doing.

G.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking
From: ajackson@ernie.Princeton.EDU (Andrew William Jackson)
Subject: Re: want to drill and thread holes
Originator: news@nimaster
Organization: Princeton University
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1993 02:07:34 GMT

In article <1993Jan19.063825.7657@adobe.com> pngai@adobe.com (Phil Ngai) writes:
>I was thinking of making an aluminum plate, perhaps 18 inches square,
>with a grid of threaded holes, perhaps 1 inch apart. This would let me
>set up fixtures easily. I am primarily interested in this for
>woodworking. Does this sound like it would be useful? I've never seen
>a product like this but it seems I am constantly making this kind
>of stuff out of scrap plywood.
>
>I'm wondering about the materials. There are places around here that
>sell aluminum plates, I suppose 1/4 inch plate would be suitable. A
>pair of incra jigs and a drill press for the holes themselves. The
>tapping is new to me. Is it feasible to do this by hand or is the tool
>likely to break off? The alternative is to use the drill press to hold
>it, I assume? What size hole is reasonable? Is there a choice of thread
>sizes?
>-- 

You have described a commercially available product.  These plates are 
often used for mounting optical components.  The top of optical tables
are ususally like this.

The standard is 1/4 - 20 holes spaced on a one inch grid.

These plates are available from

edmund scientific
barrington, nj 08544
609-573-6350

from their catalog:
			D3638	24" X 4"  $110
			D3640 	24" X 12" $255
			D3680	36" X 24" $545

these are all 1/2" thick aluminum plates w/ 1/4 20 holes drilled
on 1 inch centers within 0.001"  other sizes are available.

We make our own using a numerically controlled milling machine
that can tap also.

They seem rather expensive to me to buy.  If you are going to make
one yourself you might just want to lay out all the holes and then
tap them as you need them.  You will need a good way of drilling the
holes accurately. I am not sure an incra-jig will do it well enough.
Tapping is not too tough, but your arms will get tired by the time 
you finish tapping 256 holes.

good luck

ajackson@ernie.princeton.edu
andrew jackson  -  physics department   - princeton university



Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: cav@bnr.ca (Rick Cavasin)
Subject: Re: How to fix forge grate?
Reply-To: cav@bnr.ca (Rick Cavasin)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 93 13:59:07 GMT

Thanks to all who responded on the net and through email.

Rick C.
From: dparsons@plasma.ps.uci.edu ()
Subject: Re: Machine shop work
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8]
Date: 25 Jan 93 16:53:05 GMT

Daniel A. Fields (fields@pacvax.UUCP) wrote:
: I have an old "egg beater" hand drill that I would like to fix.

: Dan Fields
: Pacer Software, Inc.
: 1900 West park Drive,
: Suite 280
: Westborough, Ma. 01581

	Sure machine shops and Job shops do this sort of thing.  I just
dig on jobs like the one you describe.  Find a shop in your area where the
outside walls are dirty, maybe a broken window somewhere but the doorknob
is shiny, walk in and talk to the old guy.  He'll like it.

Dave Parsons
From: whit@carson.u.washington.edu (John Whitmore)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: want to drill and thread holes
Date: 24 Jan 1993 00:08:02 GMT
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
NNTP-Posting-Host: carson.u.washington.edu

	Drilling all those holes is less painful than tapping them
(we're talking on the order of 300); consider just drilling
them, and pressing in threaded inserts.  If you counterbore 'em
just right (in a thick plate, 5/8" or so), you can press in hexagonal
nuts.  With the right diameter undersize hole, they'd stick fine.
Or, use a thick wood plate (3/4" hardwood plywood?) and T-nuts.

	There are nuts meant to be pressed into holes, made by PEM
(among others), but I don't know where to find small quantities.

	I have successfully tapped with a Skil Twist electric screwdriver,
using a Jacobs chuck to hold the tap; this is a lot easier than doing
it all by hand, but I'm not sure it can handle 1/4-20 tapping
in thick aluminum.

	On a good NC mill, with a thread rolling apparatus, it could
be done quickly and easily (but someone has to pay the shop for their
time, of course).

	John Whitmore



Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: dwilliam@pizza.ess.harris.com (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: Stamping Dies
Organization: Harris Corporation - ISD
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 22:47:22 GMT

In <1993Jan27.152050.3162@pasteur.Berkeley.EDU> jmorton@euler.Berkeley.EDU (John Morton) writes:

>In article <lmc098INNpp4@exodus.Eng.Sun.COM> coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM writes:
>>Has anyone out there ever built a die for stamping metal?

>What do you mean, "stamping metal"?

   Well, most stamping applications are for making holes/discs in/from sheet
metal.  I once had a job running a twelve-ton punch press which was used to
make all the little holes for sheet metal screws in a metal box cover.  We
had a whole pile of various die sets to go in my press, depending on what
sort of thing we were making at the time.  My finished pieces went on to
be bent up in an automated brake.  From there, they vanished into an assembly
line, never to be seen by me again... :-)

   This press was truely monsterous, standing around 17 feet tall.  (I'm not
kidding!)  Most of it's die sets were about two feet by a foot and a half.
Each one consisted of a number of punches (one for each hole) and the die
that each punch mated with.  Picture your average, everyday paper punch,
except on a monster scale.  

   We had a whole dept. of dirty old guys who would produce punch sets on
request (well, after a few weeks of work anyway.)

--
Dave Williams                                   | "What time is it?" "9:00AM"
 dwilliam@jabba.ess.harris.com                  | "What day?"        "Monday"
  "Huh?  What?  Could you repeat the question?" | "Go away.  Try me Tuesday"
    <mumble mumble> opinions <mumble mumble> mine <mumble mumble mumble>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: laforce@xenon.arc.nasa.gov (Soren LaForce)
Subject: Re: recommendation for band saw for cutting Al tubing
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA Ames Res. Ctr. Mtn Vw CA 94035
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 17:07:00 GMT

In article <1993Jan25.194537.8737@pb2esac.uucp>, kamooni@pb2esac.uucp (Ken Moonitz) writes...
>In article <1jsn5qINN6ce@shelley.u.washington.edu> whit@carson.u.washington.edu (John Whitmore) writes:
>>In article <laird.727719113@pasture.ecn.purdue.edu> laird@pasture.ecn.purdue.edu (Kyler Laird) writes:
>>>I'd like to cut some chimes out of aluminum.  (What do you think
>>>they'll sound like?)  I'd like to get a small (table top) band
>>>saw, but I can't find any blades of that size for aluminum.
>>
>>	A good cut in thin aluminum is going to be impossible with
>>a toothed blade; instead, use a 'chop saw' with an abrasive
>>metal-cutting blade (and find one that is NOT incompatible with
>>aluminum; clogging the blade is a common problem with soft metals).  
>>Be aware that aluminum dust is flammable, and dispose
>>of it promptly... you DON'T want to make an accidental 
>>thermite fire.
>>
>>	A simple bandsaw, like a hacksaw, will 'grab' the tubing
>>where an abrasive tool will not.  The cut quality is better, too.
>>
>>	John Whitmore
>>
>>
> 
>Wrong.
> 
>In a past life I built hang gliders and we cut thousands of feet
>of 6061T6 alum tubing on a chop saw.  A good'ol fine toothed
>carbide blade does the trick, Freud LU89 saw blade for example
>which is listed as a non-ferrous metal blade.
> 
>And as far as I can remember magnesium was the metal dust you
>need to worry about not alum.


Alluminum dust will burn just fine thanks (has to be pretty fine).


6061T6 is a pretty hard alloy.  It also machines well.  Some of the
other alloys will just kind of smear out of the way of the blade.

Unless you need to cut 10,000 of these chimes, I'd try a tubing cutter.


--Soren            laforce@xenon.arc.nasa.gov
>
From: coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM (Chip Coffin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Stamping Dies
Date: 27 Jan 1993 21:58:27 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Distribution: world
Reply-To: coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: surfin

>What do you mean, "stamping metal"?

>I think he means making dies that can stamp metal slugs to produce coins.

Whoops!  Let me clarify:

Metal stamping is the process by which sheet metal, which is effectively 2 dimentional,
is shaped into a 3 dimentional part.

Find any swingline stapler, for example, and you will see mostly stamped metal
parts. Metal car bumpers are stamped from a sheet of steel.  

The stamping may be done with one set of dies, if the bends aren't too radical, or
it may use progressive dies to coax the sheet metal into shapes.

I have a need to have some dies made, and I am looking for some expertise.


Anybody ever see a De-Sta-Co toggle clamp?  They are made by the Detroit-Stamping-Company.


chip
From: bwhite@oucsace.cs.ohiou.edu (William E. White )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: anybody do much blacksmithing?  how about forge welding?
Date: 22 Jan 93 05:22:07 GMT
Organization: Ohio University, Computer Science Department

In article <1993Jan20.220849.18869@organpipe.uug.arizona.edu> tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin) writes:

|>I have been trying to forge weld high carbon steel (files or springs)
|>to soft steel to make tools.   I have some success when the soft iron
|>almost totally encloses the high carbon,  but when the high carbon steel
|>is largely exposed I have a lot of problems with burning.   If I
|>heat it to a yellow heat it doesn't seem to weld, but if I heat it to
|>a white heat I get burning and cracks running throughout the high
|>carbon steel.

>Is the high carbon steel more susceptable to Sulfur and other impurities
>in the coal than soft steel?  Should I use commercial coke? 

Coke is always a good idea.  It's prepurified and the temperatures are easier
to maintain.  The problem with burning the steel is the type of fire.  You
have an oxidizing fire instead of a neutral or reducing fire; you do not
want to use an oxidizing fire with high-carbon steels as you do not create
as much slag.  You didn't say what kind of flux you were using; all I can
assume is that it's commercial.  Buy some 20 mule team Borax, put it in a
coffee can, and bake it for a few hours.  Grind this up and try it.  I have
good luck with it.  The more stuff you add, the more likely you'll get a
bad weld; stick with something simple.  Think about the Vikings, in 800 they
were forge-welding iron and crucible steels in charcoal fires.

>Should I use a really deep bed of coal?  Any suggestions?

No.  Increase the air flow for a reducing fire.  Increasing the air flow
causes it to burn at a higher temperature, burning off the oxygen.  Hence
a hotter fire.  It works, trust me.


Bryian Winner

c/o

-- 
|  Bill White   +1-614-594-3434     | bwhite@oucsace.cs.ohiou.edu             |
|  31 Curran Dr., Athens OH  45701  | bwhite@bigbird.cs.ohiou.edu (alternate) |
|  SCA: Erasmus Marwick, Dernehealde Pursuivant, Dernehealde, Middle Kingdom  |
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: jmorton@euler.Berkeley.EDU (John Morton)
Subject: Re: Stamping Dies
Organization: University of California at Berkeley
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 15:20:50 GMT

In article <lmc098INNpp4@exodus.Eng.Sun.COM> coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM writes:
>Has anyone out there ever built a die for stamping metal?

What do you mean, "stamping metal"?

John Morton					University of California
jmorton@euler.berkeley.edu			Mechanical Engineering
{decvax,cbosgd}!ucbvax!euler!jmorton		Machine Shop
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: kamooni@pb2esac.uucp (Ken Moonitz)
Subject: Re: recommendation for band saw for cutting Al tubing
Organization: Pacific*Bell ESAC, Oakland, CA.
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 19:45:37 GMT

In article <1jsn5qINN6ce@shelley.u.washington.edu> whit@carson.u.washington.edu (John Whitmore) writes:
>In article <laird.727719113@pasture.ecn.purdue.edu> laird@pasture.ecn.purdue.edu (Kyler Laird) writes:
>>I'd like to cut some chimes out of aluminum.  (What do you think
>>they'll sound like?)  I'd like to get a small (table top) band
>>saw, but I can't find any blades of that size for aluminum.
>
>	A good cut in thin aluminum is going to be impossible with
>a toothed blade; instead, use a 'chop saw' with an abrasive
>metal-cutting blade (and find one that is NOT incompatible with
>aluminum; clogging the blade is a common problem with soft metals).  
>Be aware that aluminum dust is flammable, and dispose
>of it promptly... you DON'T want to make an accidental 
>thermite fire.
>
>	A simple bandsaw, like a hacksaw, will 'grab' the tubing
>where an abrasive tool will not.  The cut quality is better, too.
>
>	John Whitmore
>
>

Wrong.

In a past life I built hang gliders and we cut thousands of feet
of 6061T6 alum tubing on a chop saw.  A good'ol fine toothed
carbide blade does the trick, Freud LU89 saw blade for example
which is listed as a non-ferrous metal blade.

And as far as I can remember magnesium was the metal dust you
need to worry about not alum.
From: Charles.K.Scott@dartmouth.edu (Charles K. Scott)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Oxy/Acet welding problems
Date: 28 Jan 93 17:25:57 GMT
 <1993Jan26.210528.21920@watson.ibm.com>  
 <1993Jan28.054632.6249@samba.oit.unc.edu>
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH
X-Posted-From: InterNews1.0a5@newshost.dartmouth.edu

In article <1993Jan28.054632.6249@samba.oit.unc.edu>
Bathsheba.Grossman@launchpad.unc.edu (Bathsheba Grossman) writes:

>  here's my tips
> du jour.  Welds (and cuts) come out more uniform if you set up a
> wrist-rest, some cool metal or firebricks or whatever, in the right place to
> slide your arm(s) along as the weld progresses; it takes the twitchiness out
> of the rod tip.  

I think this is good advice.  My mentor friend who came over to see how
I was doing on the airplane immediately said.  How can you weld that
way?  You don't have anything to rest your arms on so the rod's going
to go all over the place.  I'm attempting to set up a welding station
that allows me to rest my elbows and get close enough to the work to
keep steady.  Part of my problem is that I get so excited about
welding, at least when I first start, that I'm practically shaking.  

Thanks for the advice, Corky Scott
From: steveha@tekig5.pen.tek.com (Steven L Harris)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: recommendation for band saw for cutting Al tubing
Date: 22 Jan 93 19:42:43 GMT
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Beaverton,  OR.

In article <laird.727719113@pasture.ecn.purdue.edu> laird@pasture.ecn.purdue.edu (Kyler Laird) writes:
>I'd like to cut some chimes out of aluminum.  (What do you think
>they'll sound like?)  I'd like to get a small (table top) band
>saw, but I can't find any blades of that size for aluminum.
>
>So...will a table top model hold up to cutting a couple hundred
>chimes?  Which one should I get?  Where can I get blades for Al?
>
>thanks!
>
>--kyler



Normal woodworking blades hold up reasonably well to cutting
aluminum.  I am building an aluminum airplane and use normal
woodcutting blades all the time to cut the aluminum.  Wear
hearing protection, it is really loud.  And never cut steel, it
will ruin your blade instantly.

Steve
From: mfleet@memstvx1.memst.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Power Hammer Wanted
Date: 25 Jan 93 09:09:47 GMT
Article-I.D.: memstvx1.1993Jan25.150947.5201
Organization: Memphis State University

In article <1993Jan20.054903.28580@oucsace.cs.ohiou.edu>, bwhite@oucsace.cs.ohiou.edu (William E. White ) writes:
> In article <1993Jan13.071652.1@ducvax.auburn.edu> anvil@ducvax.auburn.edu writes:
> |>I need a power hammer. Ram weight about 50-75 lbs. It must be in usable
> |>condition. If mechanical Mayer Bros or Little Giant or Perfect. If pneumatic
> |>Rieter or Nazel 1-B.
> 
> I think Centaur Forge carries used power hammers, or at least parts.
> 
>>John Sugg
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> |  Bill White   +1-614-594-3434     | bwhite@oucsace.cs.ohiou.edu             |
> |  31 Curran Dr., Athens OH  45701  | bwhite@bigbird.cs.ohiou.edu (alternate) |
> |  SCA: Erasmus Marwick, Dernehealde Pursuivant, Dernehealde, Middle Kingdom  |

*******
*******
I have the following card in my hand:

"Rebuilt and used Little Giant-Mayer Bros.
Power Hammers and replacement parts
Harlan "Sid" Suedemeier
420 4th Corso
Nebraska City, NE 68410
Days 402-873-6603 - eves. 402-873-4372"

On the reverse of his card is the following:
"Little Giant-Mayer Bros.
Power Hammers
Parts-Used and Rebuilt
Complete hammers"

...

All parts, patterns and tooling have been acquired from the Little Giant 
factory in Minnesota
..."

Sid should be of some help to you.  Good luck

Marrin Fleet
Memphis State University
Memphis, TN  38152
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: hollen@megatek.UUCP (Dion Hollenbeck)
Subject: Special purpose knives/blades
Organization: Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California
Distribution: usa
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1993 19:16:13 GMT

Every once in a while I would like to make a special purpose
knife/blade for some project that will probably be useful in the
future also.  I mostly have avoided doing it because I do not know
what kind of steels are appropriate, how to work them, etc.  Is it
possible to get a small summary, or even maybe references to good
books?

Use as an example a hula hoe.  It is a square loop of metal strap with
a handle sticking out of one side, used for weeding.  The leading and
trailing edges are sharpened.  It cuts weeds off just below the soil
on forward and backward strokes.  The loop is about 4" wide and has a
broom size handle.  I wanted to make one 2" wide with a 4" handle for
tiny uses.  What commonly available materials would you have made the
loop out of?  How do you bend it, shape it, sharpen it, at what stage
would you harden it, how would you harden it?
                     
                  || 
                  ||   
                  || 
                  || 
                  ||   <--- handle                   
                  || 
               ----------  
              |         |
              |         |   <----  loop of strap
              |         |
              |         |
              -----------    <---  sharpened edge

-- 
Dion Hollenbeck                        Email: hollen@megatek.com
Senior Software Engineer                      megatek!hollen@uunet.uu.net
Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California    ucsd!megatek.uucp!hollen
From: plkg_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Paul K. Gloger)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Stamping Dies
Date: 28 Jan 93 04:29:50 GMT
Organization: University of Rochester - Rochester, New York

If you bash metal in a press, and you mash it to a diferent shape (like a
car bunper), that's stamping.

If you bash holes in it, either to have holes in the product or to use the
holes (slugs) as product, that's punching.

If you bash a form into the surface, that's embossing or coining.

(Here's the important part...)
If you do some combination of the above (as is usually the case), then it's
called whatever-you-call-it-in-your-plant.  8|)#

Paul K. Gloger
aka CBE Industries.
From: jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Double threads
Date: 27 Jan 93 09:44:39 MST
Distribution: world
Organization: University of Wyoming - Laramie, WY

I have a few interesting items in my scrap box (handles from removable
disk packs, including the part that threads into the spindle of the
disk drive), and just realized last night that they include a moderately
rare type of thread.  It looked and measured as 3/8-24, but upon further
inspection (and the fact that my 3/8-24 die would not screw onto it)
I realized that it is "double threaded."  Is that the proper term?
There are two separate threads per turn, allowing it to have roughly
the strength of 24 tpi but the "rate" of 12 tpi when screwing it into
a mating part.

I checked my Penn tool catalog, which must have 25 pages or more of taps,
and could not find *any* double threaded taps.  Is this such a rare thing
that nobody makes such taps?

I suppose if I ever want to use these handles as-is, I can cut the mating
threads on a lathe.  Or, turn down the threads on the handles and cut 
conventional ones (I think they are stainless).

Any thoughts?

Jim Kirkpatrick
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: ajackson@ernie.Princeton.EDU (Andrew William Jackson)
Subject: Re: Help!  Snapped off a bolt!
Originator: news@nimaster
Organization: Princeton University
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1993 02:12:03 GMT

In article <1993Jan19.140505.14423@nynexst.com> smierch@madeline.com writes:
>In assembling my new table saw, I got carried away tightening 
>a hex bolt into a threaded hole and snapped the bolt so that 
>it's broken off flush.  What can I do to get the rest of the
>bolt out of the hole short of drilling it out and retapping
>the hole?
>
>Ed
>


There are tools for removing broken bolts.  You drill a small diameter
hole in the broken bolt and then you twist a tapered tool into the hole
that has reverse threading so you can unscrew the bolt.  I think one 
brand name is ez-out.  You can buy them at sears or at an auto parts 
store.

ajackson@ernie.princeton.edu