HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: "james syniura" <james.syniura@canrem.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: wild hops
Date: 2 Sep 92 16:09:05 EST
Reply-To: "james syniura" <james.syniura@canrem.com>
Distribution: rec
Organization: Canada Remote Systems

Glenn Anderson ....

GA>
GA>Yesterday I had the good fortune of coming across a beauty, 35 foot,
GA>hop plant growing wild near my home. It had about 10^e6 hop cones on h
GA>so I picked a full shopping bag and brought them home. I have layed th
GA>out on a screen in my garage to dry.
GA>
GA>Now this may seem trivial to you west coast types, but I live in Toron
GA>Canada.
GA>


Where did you find them ???

I to am from Toronto, and have been thinking of grow hops in my backyard.
Do you care to share this information  ???


Thanks


James Syniura


=========================================================================
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From: cpalmer@ohstpy.mps.ohio-state.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: bottles for beginners
Date: 2 Sep 92 09:22:11 EDT

There is a place in Ann Arbor that sells empty Grolsch bottles for 
four dollars a case of twenty. (twenty cents a bottle)
I think this is definitly worth it; the luxury of using Grolsch bottles,
as well as the aesthetics make this a worthwile investment.
There is also a place in Columbus which sells them for five bucks for twenty,
also a good deal.

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: drenze@icaen.uiowa.edu (Douglass J. Renze)
Subject: Re: Raspberry beer 
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 17:14:42 GMT
Organization: University of Iowa, Iowa City, IA, USA

stephane@xrtll.uucp (Stephane Deschenes) writes:

>One of the reasons I just purchased beer making equipment was because
>I tried a Belgian beer called Frambosen (spelling?)

It's "Framboise", and it simply means "raspberry"--and it's my favorite
beer, too.

>At first the flavour was quite unusual.  I wasn't sure whether I liked
>it or not.  As I took more and more sips, I began to really appreciate
>its unique taste.  My problem was that this beer is difficult to get and
>when found it is prohibitively expensive ($5 per bottle).  As a result
>I decided that brewing it myself might be in order.  I had watched friends
>brew and their results were very encouraging.

>My problem:  I have asked several people and read many books but I can't
>find a recipe for raspberry beer.  

>Does anyone have any suggestions??  Any recipes???
>Please keep in mind that I am a neophite when it comes to brewing
>so I may not understand difficult processes.

>I have also heard that there is a Belgian cherry beer called a
>Creek i believe.  Sounds interesting.  Any comments or recipes?

It's Kriek Lambic, and it's made by the same company that produces the
Framboise Lambic.  Kriek simply means "cherry".

I, too, would like recipes for these two beers.  I believe they're lambics
with fresh fruit crushed into them...if I could get a straight lambic recipe,
I'd love to experiment.

Doug
-- 
| Douglas J Renze            | "Jerry [Brown] is the equivalent of a          |
| drenze@icaen.uiowa.edu     |  drive-by shooting."                           |
| drenze@chop.isca.uiowa.edu |                                                |
| drenze@aol.com             |         * NPR's Morning Edition, 13 July 1992  |
From: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us (Joseph Nathan Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: European Ale (Wyeast 1338)
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 92 15:48:13 EDT
Organization: 5 Sigma Software
Reply-To: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us
X-Mailer: uAccess - Macintosh Release: 1.5v5


Hmm.  I have some plates streaked with Wyeast 1338 that look a little
odd.  The plates are a week or so old now, and there are two sizes
of yeast colonies on them.  There are a half dozen large (just sub
BB dia.) colonies on each and many small (ballpoint pen point or smaller
size) ones.  There are no intermediate sizes.

Double hmm.  I wonder whether the large colonies were clumps of cells in
the starter I streaked, or whether I have two strains here.  I tend
to believe the latter, since the small colonies have not grown as
quickly as the large.

Evidently the slower-growing (?) strain was more numerous,
by a factor of 10 or 20, in the starter.

Meanwhile, I've pitched a brew with the starter, and it seems to be
progressing normally.  That is to say, it doesn't smell like a hot
radiator hose or anything, so there must not have been anything 
drastically "wrong" with the yeast.

I thought the only double strain Wyeast sold was the wheat beer yeast.
Contamination of my starter is possible, but certainly it wasn't
contaminated by anything obnoxious.  I had a B. lambicus culture and
starter in here a while ago, but I do *not* think that it got loose.
(I handled that stuff like it was plutonium dust.)

I just streaked a colony of each size onto another plate and onto
slants ... stay tuned ...

Anyone who regularly cultures liquid yeasts is welcome to comment.
Jack will probably comment anyway.  1/2 :-)

Can someone out there tell me how to make prepared slides of yeast?
I've got a friend with a nice microscope and a large set of pH
indicators (many of which are also stains), and am now feeling the
itch to scrutinize my cultures at higher magnification....

uunet!joebloe!joseph   (609) 273-8200 day   joseph%joebloe@uunet.uu.net
v   v  sssss | Certified Guru: all-grain brewing,| 2102 Ryan's Run East
 v v  s   s  | C, synthesizer comp & arranging,  | Rt 38 & 41
  v    sss   | photography. Also not a bad cook. | Maple Shade NJ 08052
-----My employer isn't paying for this, and my opinions are my own-----
From: slk6p@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: using fruit juices in ale
Date: 31 Aug 92 15:53:07 MDT
Organization: Utah State University

In article <1992Aug31.162727.7542@aio.jsc.nasa.gov>, marshall@sweetpea.jsc.nasa.gov (Jay Marshall) writes:
> I would like to make a cherry ale and thought that I had heard someone
> say that you could get pasteurized cherries at the local Whole Foods.
> When I went to check it out, all I could find was 100% cherry juice.
> I was going to use about 5 lbs of cherries for a 5 gallon batch.  If I
> were to use this cherry juice instead, how much would be approximately
> equivalent?  Has anyone out there used the juice before?  Also, are there
> any clarifying agents needed when you use fruits (or juice) in beer?  I was
> going to add this to the secondary for a week or so...

I've used OREGON brand canned cherries.  They are canned in their own
syrup w/o preservatives.  Pitted, and ready for mushing.  I usually
blend them and add at the end of the boil, steeping for ~20min.
A bucket for a primary will make it easier to remove the fruit.  Transfer
to a secondary. you can wrap sterile cheesecloth on the end of the siphon
tube to keep the fruit out.  

	I like to add PECTIC ENZYME in the primary, and a little in the 
secondary.  It breaks down some of the plants cell walls: 
	1.  making more sugars accessible,  2.  reducing the haze resulting
from fruit components present in the brew.
Additionally: you could add some other finings to help sediment out the fruit
Isinglass, or other wine clarifiers (sparkaloid is what I've used) can help.

Juice should work ok, but avoid any containing preservatives which might
inhibit your yeast.  I'd be inclined to go with the canned fruit, or frozen
fruit.  Freezing also helps break open the cells releasing the sugars.

				Brew on....	John Wyllie (The Coyote)



	I like to add PECTIC ENZYME to the primary, then a little in the 


> 
> thanks
> 
> Jay
> 
> -- 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Jay Marshall                       
> marshall@sweetpea.jsc.nasa.gov    
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> (standard disclaimer)
From: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us (Joseph Nathan Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Removing Chlorine [Re: sterilization with...]
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 92 03:20:16 EDT
Organization: 5 Sigma Software
Reply-To: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us
X-Mailer: uAccess - Macintosh Release: 1.5v5


In article <67242@hydra.gatech.EDU> (rec.crafts.brewing), hhaas@RAIL9000.gatech.edu (Harry P. Haas) writes:
) On water . . . What is the concensus on methods for removing chlorine?
) I also have a salt-water tank, and every time I use Stress Coat (de-
) chlorinizer with aloa) I ponder adding a bit to my brew water.  I live
) in a rather large city with heavily chlorinated water, and sometimes
) have batches that struggle to reach complete fermintation.

Everything I have ever heard on this subject suggests only one method
for removing chlorine from tapwater:

	Boil it.

On the other hand, I don't see the harm in adding a drop of strong
sodium thiosulfate solution per gallon of tapwater.  If fish can tolerate
living and "breathing" this 24 hr/day, why not yeast and humans? 
If I were inclined to do this, which I'm not, I certainly wouldn't
use the fancy fish shop stuff that includes aloe or other junk like
that.  (Aloe beer.  Hmm...?  Eeeeeuuuu....)  Look for the pure stuff.
It would come in a real small bottle (1oz or less) and cost $1 or
so.

But *why* would anyone want to put sodium thiosulfate in his beer, really?
Do you want your list of ingredients to read, "Water, malt, hops,
yeast, ammonium diphosphate, niacin, sulfites, sodium thiosulfate..."
or just "Water, malt, hops, yeast."

Note that since boiling for even a brief period of time removes chlorine,
you need to be most concerned about removing chlorine from the tap
water you use when diluting your wort at pitching time.  At very high
chlorine levels, though, I believe that you can get nasty effects
from mashing with chlorinated water.  In this case, boiling mashing
and sparging water would be indicated.

Be sure to take into account the change in water hardness resulting
from boiling, if such things concern you.

uunet!joebloe!joseph   (609) 273-8200 day   joseph%joebloe@uunet.uu.net
v   v  sssss | Certified Guru: all-grain brewing,| 2102 Ryan's Run East
 v v  s   s  | C, synthesizer comp & arranging,  | Rt 38 & 41
  v    sss   | photography. Also not a bad cook. | Maple Shade NJ 08052
-----My employer isn't paying for this, and my opinions are my own-----
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: akerson@deimos.srg.af.mil (Pete Akerson - akerson%srg@uunet.uucp)
Subject: Re: ROACHES !
Organization: ARINC Research, Corp.
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 92 19:34:59 GMT




  
  Ortho's Flea-Be-Gone will kill anything. Even fish in a tank accross 
the house  :-(  ( Obviously I dont own the Ortho. Corp. )

  BTW, roaches are primarily attracted to water, not filth or food as most
people think. You may have a plumbing problem.
--
Usually Reply-to: akerson%srg@uunet.uucp
Internet: akerson@srg.af.mil@uunet.uucp
Uunet: uunet!srg!akerson
Milnet: akerson@srg.srg.af.mil     maybe ...
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: prh@essence.demon.co.uk (Peter Humphrey)
Subject: Re: Great idea but....
Distribution: world
Organization: Distilled Essence of Life, The.
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 00:30:06 +0000


In article <1992Sep2.203734.2943@genrad.com> mal@genrad.com (Mike A. Long) writes:

> In article <1992Sep1.190652.21690@cbnewsc.cb.att.com> korz@cbnewsc.cb.att.com (algis.r.korzonas) writes:
> >In article <1992Aug23.034153.9218@ddsw1.mcs.com>, arf@ddsw1.MCS.COM (Jack Schmidling) writes:
> >> Last night we went to Atlantic Rest and Pub in Chi to sample some
> >> real Brittish beer.  I even brought an empty bottle and cork to bring 
> >> home some for a yeast culture.
> >> 
> >> We had a glass of Watney's and  it was real fruity and not much to my liking.
> 
> A guy I work w/who is from England mentioned that Watney's is considered
> the *bottom of the barrel* in England!
> 
> Any Brits want to flame/comment?

Watney's?  Wossat?  Never heered of it. 
 
Rgds

Peter Humphrey  |  prh@essence.demon.co.uk         | Voice 0932-343158
Woking, UK.     |  unionjack@cix.compulink.co.uk   | Data  0932-353948
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: hasn@midway.uchicago.edu (Sheheryar Hasnain)
Subject: ROACHES!
Organization: University of Chicago
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 17:06:17 GMT

Hopefully in the next month or so I'll get my act together a brew my first 
batch.  One big question came to mind when I saw some rather nasty looking 
creatures in my kitchen last night.  Does beer in a carboy attract these 
critters?  Also should one fumigate when beer is brewing in the apartment?
Just to add a personal note:  I HATE ROACHES!  I put up those combat poison
stick ups but roaches are tough!  I HATE ROACHES!
Any other solutions for getting rid of roaches would help as well.
Thanks.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: cav@bnr.ca (Rick Cavasin)
Subject: Re: Why Don't Women Brew?
Reply-To: cav@bnr.ca (Rick Cavasin)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 92 13:34:43 GMT

In article <1992Aug27.193325.10958@midway.uchicago.edu>, gal2@ellis.uchicago.edu (Jacob Galley) writes:
|> In article <ricks.714763921@mexia> ricks@itx.isc.com (Rick Sutherland) writes:
|> In the colonial times, women did significant amounts of homebrewing.  Relics of
|> this past can be seen in towns like Boston, where they have a street/section of
|> town called Alewife.
|> 
|> ---
|> 
|> Dude, an alewife is a fish. I don't know how a fish got to be called that
|> off hand, but Alewife Station is named that because alewives used to live
|> or spawn or at least BE in the marshes in that area. (No doubt long before
|> Grace and Arthur D. Little arrived and turned the marshes into toxic
|> landfills. Disclaimer: This parenthetic opinion is totally uneducated.)
|> 
|> Sorry this has nothing to do with beer, readers.
|> 
|> Cheers,
|> Jake.
|> -- 
|> Reinheitsgebot <-- "Keep your laws off my beer!" <-- gal2@midway.uchicago.edu


The concept of the 'alewife' dates back to the middle ages.  Women brewed
and sold ale, and sometimes ran ale-houses.  I suspect that the fish was
named after these brewers.  And yes, it is lamentable that this tradition
has been abandoned.

Cheers,
Rick C.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: root@cc.mcgill.ca (Steeve)
Subject: Re: Adding priming sugar
Organization: McGill University
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 22:41:17 GMT

Mika O. Latokartano (mol@jyu.fi) wrote:
: 
: 
:   I'm planning on brewing this batch one-stage fermenting only - just
:   to get the idea how things are done.  Should I still get another
:   cask in which to pour the priming sugar, then siphon the beer (or
:   is it still called wort at this stage, or what?) from the fermenter in
:   it to mix it nicely, and bottle it from the priming cask?  Or is it
:   ok to add the priming sugar straight to the fermenter (I guess it is
:   not the best idea)?

	 Usually I rack the wort to the secondary after the specific gravity
	 is almost to the desired level - usually after 4 or 5 days.  After 
	 that I leave the secondary for one to two weeks, depending on how
	 lazy I'm feeling, or how much beer I have around for consumption!

    When I'm ready to bottle I dissolve about 1/4 cup of dextrose in
	 1/2 cup of hot or just boiled water.  This solution is then cooled
	 a bit and added to the secondary and gently stirred so as not to
	 disturb the small amount of sediment left in the bottom of the
	 secondary.

	 Then bottle it, cap it, wait until you are thirsty and drink it
	 until you are full or drunk or comatose or whatever effect you are
	 after - I hear you fins like your beer!

    PS. When you rack be careful not to siphon too much of the sediment
		  from the primary into the secondary ... if you want your beer
		  nice and clear ... unless you are a yeast nut, but actually 
		  this sediment can lead to nasty wierd flavours.

    Hope this helps, happy brewing!
From: pod@eksignal.kodak.com (Mike Podhorecki)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: All grain, Rochester, N.Y.
Date: 1 Sep 92 13:21:34 GMT
Organization: Eastman Kodak

Hi, Anybody in Rochester area willing to show someone the light in all grain
brewing? I'm one of these enginerds who need to SEE something done once and
take off from there. Is there a homebrew club around here?

Please respond to me personally,

Mike Podhorecki   pod@eksignal.kodak.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: gak@wrs.com (Richard Stueven)
Subject: Re: wort chilling with ice cold water
Reply-To: gak@wrs.com
Organization: Wind River Systems, Inc.
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 16:24:40 GMT

In article 4266@wet.UUCP, sbeitzel@wet.UUCP (Stephen Beitzel) writes:
>In article <1992Aug24.203744.22413@terminator.cc.umich.edu> markg@itd.umich.edu writes:
>>Is there anything wrong with chilling your wort by combining the hot
>>concentrate [by adding very cold water]
>
>This is the way I cooled my first brew, and it turned out just fine.  One
>caution, though, is that you should pour the cold into the hot, rather than
>the other way around.

Not if you're using a glass fermenter.  There's a very good chance that
your fermenter will crack when you pour the hot wort in.  If that
happens, you won't have anything to pour the cold water in...

---
gak			Der Herr Buergermeister gibt bekannt, dass ab
gak@wrs.com		Donnerstag Bier gebraut wird und deshalb ab
attmail!gakhaus!gak	Mittwoch nicht mehr in den Bach geschissen
107/H/3&4		werden darf.

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: psrc@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (Paul S. R. Chisholm)
Subject: Re: sterilization with a microwave?????
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 00:22:09 GMT
Summary: can't use microwaves for canning

Microwave ovens are specifically *not* good for canning (sanitizing
foods via heat, then sealing), because they heat unevenly  You can get
spots which are plenty hot enough, and spots which are too cool to be
sanitized ('way cool, dude).  If they're no good for canning, they're
probably no good for sanitizing brewing equipment.

Paul S. R. Chisholm, AT&T Bell Laboratories/EasyLink Services,
att!pegasus!psrc, psrc@pegasus.att.com, AT&T Mail !psrchisholm
I'm not speaking for the company, I'm just speaking my mind.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: reb@Ingres.COM (Phydeaux)
Subject: Re: ROACHES!
Reply-To: reb@Ingres.COM (Phydeaux)
Organization: E 4th St Home For The Overeducated Underemployed - Chicago Div.
Date: 27 Aug 92 23:15:04 GMT

In article <flar.714953495@vincent1.iastate.edu> flar@iastate.edu (Bradley M Armitage) writes:
>>Any other solutions for getting rid of roaches would help as well.
>>Thanks.

Try boric acid...
				reb
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Subject: Re: SG on double malting
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean  VA
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 15:59:09 GMT

In article <1992Sep1.191543.13016@worldbank.org>
 aki <aki@atlas.worldbank.org> writes:

>I just made a
>batch of brew using two cans of Muntons (sp?) dark amber ale 
>malt .vs. one can (I did not double the water content)

>Question, because
>I double malted it, will the SG still drop to the recommended
>SG prior to racking?  Also because I double malted it, will
>my alcohol content be higher?  Any net wisdom you can
>provide would be greatly appreciated!

Well, it depends on what you mean by "double malting".  To me, that implies 
that you went from a recipe like "1 can of malt plus 3 lbs. of sugar" to a 
recipe of "2 cans of malt and no sugar".

If this is the case, you will get the same amount of alcohol, but a fuller, 
richer tasting brew.

I always recommend this to beginning brewers who have the awful fate of 
believing the directions on a can of malt extract.


John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own
Fidonet:  1:109/131  Internet:  jdecarlo@mitre.org
From: daveb@greenman.sybase.com (David Birkhead)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Help: Bottling leftover keg?
Date: 26 Aug 92 18:44:26 GMT
Reply-To: daveb@greenman.sybase.com
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.

In article 26945@cs.rose-hulman.edu, goddard@NeXTwork.Rose-Hulman.Edu (Bart Goddard) writes:
>
>So I throw this little party, and it rains. Now I have about 8 gallons
>of beer left in a keg that must be returned soon.  I could make a  
>valiant effort, but I don't think my kidneys could take the additional  
>strain.  SOOOO.... I was wondering if anyone had tried bottling from a  
>keg.  I seems like just filling the bottle from the tap would leave me  
>with 12 ounces of flat beer, but maybe the carbonation would be  
>enough....?? I don't have a way to fill the bottles under pressure.

If the beer is cold and well carbonated and you have a way to get it into the bottles without disturbing it very much the beer out of the bottle shouldn't be flat.

The problem is getting it into the bottle without disturbing it.

The best way is with a counter pressure filler but you might try using the standard
tap with a hose extension that delivers the beer at the bottem of the bottls.

Good luck,

daveb
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: nicholas@brazil.psych.purdue.edu (Jeffrey Nicholas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: god please don't flame me...
Date: 4 Sep 92 20:01:23 GMT
Organization: Purdue University

In article <1992Sep2.103443.58572@cc.usu.edu> slk6p@cc.usu.edu writes:
>In article <1992Sep1.202606.13997@worldbank.org>, aki <aki@atlas.worldbank.org> writes:
>> 
>> I REALLY feel stupid for asking this question but..
>> just what _exactly_ is a carboy?  I noticed in
>> a previous post that someone mentioned they
>> bought a whole bunch of stuff from a local
>> homebrew shop for $44 including a carboy and
>> I've seen lots of discussions mentioning carboys.
>> Is this something I need?  Does it replace
>> bottles? Gawd I feel stupid...please don't
>> laugh at me..I'm new at all this...:-( ...
>> 
>> -aki
>
>
>*On another note:  Please don't be afraid to ask questions!   This one isn't
>even in the FAQ (probably 'cause no other newbies have enuf balls (or
>stupidity) to ask it, and be subjected to flaming jabs like these)
>
>BUT REALLY:  I can't stand the fact that our new brewers on the net are in
>constant fear of being jumped upon for their ignorance (BTW that's not a BAD
> But the whole
>point of this net as I understand it- is to share ideas, compare methods, and
>help the newbies.  SO SPEAK UP_  ASK YOUR MIND!!!  DON"T BE SHY.  Hell just
>


here, here.  i couldn't agree more.  there really is no room for flaming in
a newsgroup like this except when it is done in fun!