From: JBrandt@AAA.UOregon.EDU (Jay Brandt)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: How to fold/wear Great Kilt
Date: 13 Aug 92 21:00:14 GMT
Organization: University of Oregon, Architecture


Response from Jason of Rosaria, in the Kingdom of An Tir, SCA

In article <1992Aug12.223147.18550@access.usask.ca>, goldie@herald.usask.ca
(Hugh Goldie) writes:
> 
> Please send instructions for folding and wearing the Great Scottish Kilt or 
> feileadh-mor.  As I understand it, this was a large piece of tartan or 
> other cloth, folded in pleats and worn about the body, with only a belt used
> for fastening.  One could unfasten the feileadh-mor and use it for a blanket
> when sleeping in the open ("..and I s'all rowe thee in my plaide, my bonney
> dearie".)
> 

Jason responds:

For the last year or so I have worn a great kilt to SCA events and to
various cultural fairs (such as Worldfest in Seattle WA). I figured out how
to fold it by looking at period illustrations in books on the Scottish
Clans, and by experimentation one fine night when a very hot weekend turned
much colder than was comfortable for the lightweight English summer garb I
had packed for an SCA tournament. I will admit that I am not CERTAIN that
this is the true and ancient method of wearing the great kilt. But the
appearance, when worn, matches the old paintings and illustrations, and I
have never had a complaint from any member of a Scottish Clan Association
that it was in any way incorrect or inappropriate. If anything, they are
usually fascinated to see it and think it looks quite good. If anyone knows
a more authentic method than the one I describe here, I WANT TO KNOW! I
would prefer to be as accurate as possible on this, as I am developing a
Scotts personna (Michael McaGaughey).

The garment as I wear it consists of a single rectangle of tartan plaid,
held with a belt, a simple brass penanular broach at the shoulder, and
optionally a kilt pin where the hem overlaps. You also usually wear a
shirt, possibly a second belt, and at least a scottish pouch called a
Sporran, which is worn in front. Other paraphenalia are simple leather
shoes, socks that reach the knee (tartan to match the kilt or solid color),
a small knife in the top of one sock, called a Skein Dubh, a larger knife
worn at the hip, called a Dirk, and possibly also a sword. The dirk and
sword are optional, and you should judge their apprioriateness by where it
is to be worn and for what purpose. Certainly not for dancing or for
shopping downtown! The Skein Dubh, however, is almost always worn. It is
considered the same way we think of a pocket knife. Undergarments are up to
you. The period (pre 1600) practice seems to have been boxer shorts with a
drawstring waist. "Going Regimental" and wearing nothing beneath the kilt
appears to be a Victorian idea. 

Fair Maid -- "Good sir, tell me truly, is anything worn beneath the Kilt?"
Scottsman -- (chuckle) "Nay lass, it's all in fine working order."

The Shirt: The great kilt is worn with a loose, blousy white or saffron
yellow shirt, that has loose long sleeves (although sometimes only elbow
lenght), no collar or a 1" simple collar, with ties at the neck and
optionally also at the wrists. The shirt just overlaps in front or is a
pull-over. My wife has a pattern for such a shirt, but if you look for
"peasant blouse" patterns you will be on the right track. It can also be
worn bare chested in hot weather, if you use the alternate pinning method
described below. Put the shirt on first, if you plan to wear one!

The Kilt itself: This is a large rectangle of tartan plaid OR of a solid
color in simple earth tones. (The clan tartans were a fairly recent
innovation, mostly after 1600 AD. Before that, there were simple regional
tartans, and before that they just used simple dark solids, often in browns
and greens). Either woven wool (traditional) or cotton flannel (for summer
or wool allergies) will do. The minimum size is the same as a queen-size
flat bed sheet. In fact, my first great kilt, which I still use, is just
that, a queen-size cotton flannel bedsheet in a generic plaid. It doesn't
look like a "cheat" when it is worn. About seven feet by eight feet works
well. If it is a plaid that has a definite "up and down" direction, make
the stripes go the seven-foot direction. If you can add more cloth, add it
to the eight-foot dimension. The following directions assume a 7' x 8'
rectangle.

Folding the great kilt: 

Use a belt that fits you well and has one or two notches to spare. This can
be the same belt that will support your Sporran, belt knives and other
paraphenalia. However, I have found it much more convenient to belt the
kilt on with a narrow belt, and hang everything else from a seperate belt
after you are dressed. I have seen no evidence that the use of a second
belt is incorrect, and you won't see it when you are done. Lay the belt out
on a bed or on a large clear space on a clean section of ground. If the
belt is on a bed, place it about 24" from one edge, parallel to the side of
the bed, "good side" down and buckle to the right. Pick up your plaid, and
lay it on top of the belt. If the cloth has a "good side", lay that side
down. The right edge of the plaid should be on the buckle, and the lower
edge should be the same distabce from the belt as a measure taken from your
waist to the TOP of your knee. Smooth the material out flat towards the tip
of the belt, maintaining that knee-to-waist distance from the belt to the
lower edge of the plaid. Excess material should be going up and to the
left. About six inches from the buckle, start folding the cloth towards the
buckle in loose, 2" pleats. Keep doing so until the left edge of the fabric
is even with the tip of the belt. Re-adjust the pleats as needed to make
them even. If you wanted to cheat, at this point you could pin or sew the
belt to the pleats, much as the modern kilt is fastened. However, it is
more historicly correct and more comfortable if you are free to adjust it
later. You should now have the pleated fabric laying on the belt. It will
be a bit wider than your actual girth, and there will be a lot of fabric
above the belt. Both the buckle and the tip of the belt should be just
covered by the fabric.

Putting it on:

If you have not already done so. PUT ON YOUR SHIRT! It is much easier than
doing so later, I assure you. (If you want to go without a shirt, do so
after you are familiar with this process. It is harder to fasten the kilt
without a shirt). Lay down on the folded kilt, with the buckle of the belt
at your waist above your left hip. Grasp the buckle with one hand and roll
yourself up in the kilt, holding the pleated fabric tight to your body.
Fasten the belt tightly, and stand up. Adjust the pleats as necessary, so
the kilt overlaps a few inches under the buckle. The lower part of the kilt
is now in place, and the upper part is hanging down over it, inside out.
Grasp the outer, back corner of the kilt. This is the corner that is under
the buckle, on the side that comes around your back. Hold this corner in
your left hand. Take the edge of the outer layer that was toward the ground
and pull it up along your left arm, so it hangs behind you like a cape.
Where it reaches your shoulder is where you pin it to your shirt with the
broach. (If you aren't wearing a shirt, see below). Toss the end in your
left hand behind you. Grasp the outer, front corner of the kilt. This is
the corner that is under the buckle, on the side that comes around the
front. You are going to twist this part into a roll and wrap it from left
to right around your waist, going around the front, around the back, under
the loose fabric that is now hanging from your shoulder, and tucking the
end into the waist of the kilt. Holding the edge of the kilt that hangs
down from the buckle, roll the fabric loosely, rolling from the bottom
around the outside and toward the top, as you draw it across the front of
your waist. The object is to take up the loose material. Bring it around
your right side, along the belt (thus covering the belt) and under the
fabric on your back. After you get to the buckle on your left hip, tuck it
into the waist of the kilt. If you have a kilt pin, use it to hold the
edges of the lower part of the kilt together where they overlap. You can do
without a kilt pin, but the kilt may occasionally open like a woman's
side-split skirt, so beware.

Finish dressing: Now that you have it on, get on your shoes, socks, sporran
and any other accessories. Again this is much easier if belt items hang
from a second belt. The sporran is in front, just like the modern kilt. For
a more ancient appearance in keeping with the style of kilt, use a simple
leather sporran. The furry ones with fancy tassels are more modern.

How to fasten it without a shirt: To do this, wrap the front around your
waist first. Instead of tucking it in near the buckle, wrap it over the
belt at the buckle and draw the tip upwards toward the shoulder, under the
belt. Fasten the shoulder broach to this piece of cloth. Alternatively,
draw the back piece over the shoulder and fasten it at the waist of the
kilt with the broach.

Using The Great Kilt: If you need a cape, draw the loose fabric on your
back around you. Your left hand remains near the corner that you grasped
when fastening the kilt, with that corner hanging over the front of your
wrist. If necessary, unfasten the front part that you rolled around your
waist, and wrap it around your right arm like a toga, with about two feet
hanging down in front of your wrist. If you need a hood, draw the back part
up over your head. These maneuvers can all be done without removing the
broach from your shoulder (unless you are not wearing a shirt). If it gets
really hot, the panel that is over your shoulder can be rolled and wrapped
around your waist in a manner similar to the outer front.

Enjoy your great kilt!

Jason of Rosaria, in the Barony of Adiantum, Kingdom of An Tir

MKA Jay Brandt, Computer Support Specialist
University of Oregon, School of Architecture and Allied Arts
JBrandt@AAA.UOregon.EDU