HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: wesf@boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii)
Subject: Homebuilt Gas Analyzer Wanted
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 17:13:38 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]
Keywords: oxygen sensor exhaust analyzer


Sometime ago, someone gave instructions on how to build an
exhaust gas analyzer using a 3-wire oxygen sensor, some 
pipe fittings, spark plug extender (?), etc.  

I seem to have lost my copy and would like to build a setup
for myself.  I was wondering (again) what parts I need and 
how do I hook it up and read it?  Has anyone correlated 
this system to actual mixture percentages or if the "ideal"
voltage that is achieved is at the exact ratio desired?  
How much are you off on the mixture for every =/- .XX volts
on the DVM?

Wes Fujii
________________________________________________________________
      ___   ___ ___ 
     /  /  /  //  /
    /  /__/  //  /    A real motor is an Oldsmobile Rocket 455
   /  HURST //  /     "This is NOT the new generation of Olds"
  /  /  /  //  /_______ 
 /__/  /__//  //  ___  \
          /  //  /   \  \       Wes "BANZAI" Fujii
         /  //  /OLDS/  /          Boise, Idaho
        /  / \  \___/  /      wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com
       /__/   \_______/ 

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: josh@Happy-Man.com (Joshua_Putnam)
Subject: Re: cleaning solvents
Reply-To: Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com
Organization: Happy Man Corp., Vashon Island, WA 98070-7399
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 19:01:21 GMT

In <4277.88.uupcb@chaos.lrk.ar.us> dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)  writes:

> In all of the places I've worked, the solvent tanks had big steel lids
>that LATCHED open so they wouldn't get bumped and fall shut, which could
>cause Excedrin Headache #41, assuming your brains didn't just squeeze
>out into the solvent.

This is a good idea, and most good tanks I've seen combine this
with fire protection by putting a piece of low-melting-point
metal in the latch mechanism -- just like the trigger on a fire
sprinkler.  If your head's still in the way by the time the link
melts, getting hit with the lid is the least of your worries.
-- 
 Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com    Happy Man Corp.  206/463-9399 x102
 4410 SW Pt. Robinson Rd., Vashon Island, WA  98070-7399  fax x108
 We publish SOLID VALUE for the intelligent investor.  NextMail OK
Info free; sample $20: Send POSTAL addr: Solid-Value@happy-man.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: stevenh@cbnewsk.cb.att.com (steven.t.heinsius)
Subject: Re: Timing Light Question
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 15:15:53 GMT


If it feels like a CHEAP timing light the 
red and black with clips are hooked up to the 
trigger in the timing light.(simple test with an ohm 
meter before you blow anything up is a good idea)
I think it is some kind of jumper for the starter 
 to get the engine to tdc ---- setting the points or something like that.

The other 2 wires connect in series with the #1 spark plug
and activate the neon(again assuming a cheap light) timing light.

good luck
Steve

-----------------
From article <1993Jan4.182315.869@vestek.com>, by marcus@vestek.com (Mark Stephen):
>      I have two questions I was hoping to get some opinions
> on. First of all, I just put a new speedometer cable in my 
> Accord, and it makes a 'whirring' noise over 40 mph where the
> cable connects to the speedometer. I was wondering if I should
> put some oil or grease in the cable, or some other trick.
> 
>      Also, I came accross a timimg light at a yard sale, but 
> don't know how to hook it up. It has 2 wires with clips (one red
> and one black) and also two wires with what look like ends that 
> fit onto the top of spark plugs.
> 
>      Any info grately appreciated, Marcus
> 
> 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: flower@donald.etdesg.trw.com (Rick Flower)
Subject: ** Alternative Fuel Injectors for 300ZX's **
Originator: flower@donald
Organization: TRW Inc., Redondo Beach, CA
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 93 21:24:20 GMT

I've got a 1984 300ZX Turbo (VG-30ET engine) that I'd like to change an 
injector on.  I've found a supplier for an aftermarket part, but only IF I can
get the CFM rating for the original equipment.  If I were to buy a new 
injector from Nissan, they want $120/ea.  However, I can buy an aftermarket 
device for about half that price (depending on whether or not I find the CFM 
rating..)

I've called Nissan Consumer Affairs and they could only give me the "leak-down
rating" which doesn't do me any good...  Anyway, I was wondering if anyone has
this type of information for the BLACK series of injectors that Nissan sells.
If anyone has this information, please reply via e-mail and if there is 
sufficient interest, I will post a summary on the net..

Any information is appreciated!

Thanks for your time...

-- Rick
(REFdude)
-- 
+---------------------+-------------------------------------------------------+
|      Available      | Internet Addr: flower@donald.etdesg.TRW.COM or        |
|      for Lease      |                rickf@theweav.cts.com                  |
+---------------------+-------------------------------------------------------+
From: grego@bit.UUCP (Greg Sanguinetti)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Request for info on late model Chevy drive train
Keywords: chevy 350
Date: 12 Jan 93 17:30:32 GMT
Article-I.D.: bit.555
Distribution: usa
Organization: BIT, Portland, OR

I am in the market for 1989 or newer 3/4 ton Chevy truck. I was figuring
on going back to a Chevy 350 motor. I have been warned to watch out for
the newer "downsized" blocks. They are noted to develop cracks.
I was also warned about the "redesigned" turbo hydramatic transmition.
It is really sad if Chevy managed to screw up a great motor and trans.

All information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
-grego
-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Grego Sanguinetti, Bipolar Integrated Technology | Water, water everywhere,
grego@bit.uucp or grego%bit%ogi.cse.edu          | but I'd rather drink
or bit!grego@ogi.cse.edu or ...!ogicse!bit!grego | beer.
From: golder@homer.kodak.com (Patrick Golder)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 90/130W H4 QI headlight bulbs wanted
Date: 6 Jan 93 19:15:42 GMT

In article <64350004@hpcss01.cup.hp.com>, garyg@hpcss01.cup.hp.com (Gary Gitzen) writes:
|> Does anyone know of a mail_order source for 90/130W H4 headlight bulbs?
|> The brightest I can find locally or mail_order are 80/100W, and I'd really
|> like to have the extra wattage.

With the extra wattage, you'll be able to see the other drivers giving
you the 1-digit salute, too!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: wesf@boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii)
Subject: Re: AC Delco oil filters?
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 15:36:00 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

John Lee <jslee> (jslee@nrtc.nrtc.northrop.com) wrote:

: 	PF25->PF35
: 	PF40->PF47->PF51->PF52
: 	PF53->PF54->PF1245

Okay, the PF47 and PF52 are anti-drainback, and PF35 is a taller can.
Could someone do a matrix of what the differences between the different
numbers is?  (ie, size, thread and anti-drainback)

Thanks,

Wes Fujii
________________________________________________________________
      ___   ___ ___ 
     /  /  /  //  /
    /  /__/  //  /    A real motor is an Oldsmobile Rocket 455
   /  HURST //  /     "This is NOT the new generation of Olds"
  /  /  /  //  /_______ 
 /__/  /__//  //  ___  \
          /  //  /   \  \       Wes "BANZAI" Fujii
         /  //  /OLDS/  /          Boise, Idaho
        /  / \  \___/  /      wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com
       /__/   \_______/ 

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: efk@acpy01.att.com (Eugene Kelly (CXNIXPT1))
Subject: CRUISE CONTROL problem
Organization: AT&T IMS - Piscataway, NJ (USA)
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 19:28:12 GMT






	I have a short in my cruise control. Every time I 
try to turn it on I smell a burning scent. The cruise does
not engage. The car is a chevy cavalier. Has anyone experinced this 
and/or does anyone know how to fix or troubleshoot this problem.
I have never dealt with cruise control before and I do not have a
manual for it.




				Thanks in advance.


					Eugene


From: dick@hpscit.sc.hp.com (Dick Lucas)
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 23:52:33 GMT
Subject: Re: How to store a car for 6 months
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Clara, CA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

In rec.autos.tech, tclin@cs.ulowell.edu (Ta-Cheng Lin) writes:

>   I want to store my car for 6 months because of leaving this country
> temperarily. Someone told me that I have to disconnect the battery, or
> the battery will be drained. Is there anything that I have to take care
> of? Will the battery be still alive when I connect it back?


> Any recommendation will be appreciated.

1.  Get a gas stabilizer from your local parts store.  This prevents the gas
from depositing varnish and gum in the fuel system.  This is added to the 
gasoline and the engine is run until it is distributed throughout the system.
Make sure the tank is full to minimize any air space in the tank.  This will
minimize the condensation of water in the tank.

2.  Remove the spark plugs and put a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder. Crank
the engine over to distribute the oil over the cylinder walls. Do this before
you replace the spark plugs! If you have time, change the oil and filter
before you do this.  Used motor oil usually has some corrosive  elements
in it, such as sulphuric acid which can cause damage to bearings if left over
a long period.

3.  Remove the battery, give it a full charge, and store it where it won't
freeze.

4.  Plug the exhaust pipe with a rag to prevent rodents from moving in.

I have done this for the last 6 years with a car stored for 10 months each
year at a beach house, and the car always starts right up with no problems.
For the first 4 years, the car was an air-cooled VW fastback sedan. 2 years
ago, we got a VW dasher (water cooled) and it survived just fine!  Since the
plugs on the air-cooled VW were less accessible, I did not put oil in the
cylinders.  I put a couple of teaspoons of oil in the Dasher cylinders and
it was clearly too much, as it was squirted all over the place when the 
engine was cranked over.  If the plugs had been in, it probably would have
caused some damage to the engine, as oil is not very compressible.
The only scare was that it smoked badly for 20 minutes when I started it up
the next year until all the excess oil in the combustion chamber was burned
off.  I was concerned that the excess oil in the cylinders had broken
a ring when the engine was cranked over the previous year.  After 20 minutes
or so, the smoking stopped and all was well.


Dick Lucas
From: leonglaw@hpsgm2.sgp.hp.com (Lawrence LEONG)
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 07:54:27 GMT
Subject: Re: Is water pump going bad at 65K miles in 89 Accord Normal ??
Organization: HP Singapore
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

In rec.autos.tech, vetter@mtu.edu (STEVEN J. VETTER) writes:

| s5ugxk@almserv.uucp (Girish Kumtheker) writes:
| >
| >
| >Hi,
| >
| >
| >My car has been diagnosed with a bad water pump, with estimated
| >repair cost at $ 350 - $ 400 ( that includes replacing the belts and
| >timing belt .. they need to come off anyway, so replacing them now saves
| >labor ).
| >
| >I have 1989 Honda Accord 4 Dr with 65K miles . My question is
| >is this a normal thing to happen to lose water pump at this mileage
| >for Accords ????
| >
| >
| >Please send E mail to s5ugxk@fnma.com, 
| >
| >
| >
| >Thanks
| >
| >Girish Kumthekar
| >s5ugxk@fnma.com
| >
| >
| >
| >-- 
| >
| >Girish Kumthekar		Unix Technical Support
| >
| >E mail address : girish@fnma.com 
|
|   Yes, this is completely normal.  Honda reccomends that you have your water pump at least checked
|   as routine maintenance at about 60K.
|

What I've been told is, check (change if necessary) water pump at same time
you do your timing belt.

Lawrence
From: meb4593@galileo.rtn.ca.boeing.com (Michael Bain)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: temperature block heater heats block to
Date: 4 Jan 93 21:31:46 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Boeing Commercial Airplane Group, Seattle

tbmorris@acs.ucalgary.ca (Thomas B. Morrison) writes:
>It is -30 degrees C outside.  None of the cars are starting even though
>they are all "plugged in". 

Are the batteries also heated?  Their output is reduced at colder temps.


-- 
Michael Bain                                            (206) 234-6942
Boeing Commercial Airplane Group           meb4593@icdfs.ca.boeing.com
Seattle, WA 98124
From: bob@beamlab.ps.uci.edu (bob prohaska)
Subject: Holley 2300 leaks internally...Fix????
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Organization: physics department
Date: 5 Jan 93 07:52:38 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech

Hi all, is there a Holley doctor in the house?

I'm plagued with a Holley 2300, list number 6386, on a '72 Scout II
with a 345.

The carb has been a source of intermittent trouble since I got the
car.  The mixture would slowly get richer, till it wasn't possible
to lean the idle mixture. The first time this happened I rebuilt the carb
and  straightened the metering block. The car ran fine for nearly 3 years. 

Recently the car started running rich (though it didn't get so bad that
I couldn't adjust the idle mixture) so I looked at the metering block and
it
was warped once again, by about 1 mm.  I straighted both the metering block
and the float chamber but did not rebuild the carb.  After a bit of
struggle with
new Buna-N gaskets the car ran fine and idle adjustment was normal.

After standing overnight, the car started but stalled rich.

Gas could be seen trickling from the transfer slots into the barrels after
shutdown, accompanied by a soft gurgling sound as if air were entering
somewhere. The only evidence of external leakage was around the throttle
shafts (I don't think the gaskets are leaking externally.)

Is there some way to start a siphon from the float chamber to the 
transfer slot?  The idle air bleeds are not visibly obstructed and the
metering block looked clean. There was the usual brown mud
in the float chamber but nothing that looked serious. In general the carb's

quite clean for 40k miles.

I'm reluctant to replace this carb without understanding what's wrong....
does anybody have any ideas?  

thanks for reading

bob prohaska
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond)
Subject: Re: RFI: Regappable Platinium Plugs
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 93 21:28:15 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.

sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Steven J Orlin) writes:

>I have not had MANY experiences, but with the 231ci in my Regal, I
>took them out at the 15k interval and they were just as worn as the factory
>plugs.  I noticed no improvement in behavior at all, but no decline
>in performance either.

>If its worth noting, my motorcycle had a fouling problem, and when I
>tried a Bosch Platinum, it actually fouled out very much sooner than
>the Champions I usually use.

Those things are a disgrace to the name "platinum plugs".  There is just
enough platinum on the electrode to stay clear of the FTC.  I tried
a set in my MSD-6 equipped Z-car.  Lasted about 15,000 miles and
at that point, the tiny wire in center insulators was completely 
gone.

>So basically, I don't believe in them.
>I have never seen a plug last 60k ----in an older carbuerated car.

Believe it.  Real platinum plugs, plugs that have solid platinum 
electrodes and cost $6-10 apiece, WILL last that long when used with
unleaded gas.  Carbed or FI has little to do with it.  On the FI
front, my wife's Camry is a good example of how long real platinum plugs
last.  85,000 miles on the original set and still trucking.

John
-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC               |Interested in high performance mobility?  
Performance Engineering Magazine(TM) | Interested in high tech and computers? 
Marietta, Ga                         | Send ur snail-mail address to 
jgd@dixie.com                        | perform@dixie.com for a free sample mag
Need Usenet public Access in Atlanta?  Write Me for info on Dixie.com.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dhepner@cup.hp.com (Dan Hepner)
Subject: Re: 90/130W H4 QI headlight bulbs wanted
Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1993 02:33:43 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1scd1 PL4


>> With the extra wattage, you'll be able to see the other drivers
>> giving you the 1-digit salute, too!
>
> With decent lights, properly aimed, it's not a problem.

> Around here, you can't just drive around on low beam, no matter how dim
>your lights are.  The rednecks go into a frenzy working the high beam
>switch

The first goal of driving is to stay alive.  Other than driving 
crazy yourself, the most significant thing you can do to raise your
chance of dying on the highway is to drive among people who
are mad at you.

This applies to all of left lane blockers, people with bright
lights, motorcycles who run their brights during the day, and
tailgaters.  Maximizing the chance of being killed because a mad 
redneck did something stupid in your vicinity just doesn't
seem, well, the goal.

Dan Hepner
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: floyd@eng.umd.edu (Mike Hughes)
Subject: Re: Bad oxy sensor ? Oxygenated fuel ?
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 93 19:54:36 GMT
Organization: University of Maryland

In article <1993Jan8.044529.15810@noose.ecn.purdue.edu> lungtt@gus.ecn.purdue.edu (Terence T. Lung) writes:
>In article <C0I75z.D74@news.cso.uiuc.edu> bsmg9810@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Bhaskar S.Manda) writes:
>
>>I'm getting around 20 mpg with a 2.0L 4 cyl (97 bhp)
>>engine, which I think is on the lower side. The fuel
>>is 10% ethanol blend 87 octane.
>>i.  Is the fuel responsible for the low mpg ?
>>ii. From reading r.a.c, I gather the electric thing
>>on the exhaust manifold is the oxygen sensor. Can a
>>bad oxy sensor or a bad connection to it cause bad mpg
>>(by making the mixture richer than required, perhaps?)?
>
>A bad oxygen sensor might give you a funny idle on top of 
>other things.  It's departure should be gradual.  What will
>a dead one do?  I don't know...nothing for your EFI efficiency.

	No.  You don't know.  You should have left it at that.
A bad O2 sensor will cause the computer to go into 'open loop'.  In
open loop, the fuel mixture is based on pre-programed info instead of
current engine conditions.  Usually, the fuel mixture is a bit richer
than ideal, which can indeed result in excessive fuel consumption.

[chopped for your reading pleasure...]

-Mike

:Suicidal Tendencies====>: 						      :
:Mike Hughes(301)340-0922:     	     [Smack, smack, smack...]     	      :
:Mail-> floyd@eng.umd.edu: 	Standby stomach, here come' bannana.	      :
:   Z-Club member # 41   : 						      :
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mellum@skyler.mavd.honeywell.com
Subject: Re: AC Delco oil filters?
Organization: Honeywell Systems & Research Center
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 18:27:12 GMT

In article <1993Jan6.202237.14331@cbfsb.cb.att.com>, mgp@cbnewsb.cb.att.com (michael.g.petersen) writes:
> with the 3800 V6. The threaded end is pointed straight upward.  Why
> would this require an anti-drainback valve?
I assume that the threaded end referred to is that of the filter, if so the car
may not "require" the PF47, but since it is a very popular filter and is used
on the the 3800 and 3.8L engines it was specified. Using the PF52 (if there is
room) will give you more filtration area than the PF47.

Ron
mellum@skyler.mavd.honeywell.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: russ@gagme.chi.il.us (Russell J. Price)
Subject: Re: Soviet Air-cooled diesel engines
Originator: russ@gagme
Organization: Gagme Public Access UNIX, Chicago, Illinois.
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 21:42:32 GMT

In article <1993Jan4.233442.7561@wixer.cactus.org> will@wixer.cactus.org (Bill Staniewicz) writes:
>I was just watching C-span today and they featured a
>soviet engine company on the Moscow Evening News.
>
>They produce air-cooled diesel engines that are claimed
>to out perform the liquid cooled variety and can operate
>at extremely high and low temperatures. Also, they are
>supposed to be cheaper.

I haven't heard of any Russian air-coold diesels, but Deutz, a (former West)
German firm has been making air-cooled diesels for years...
-- 
Russ Price                      russ@gagme.chi.il.us
----------------------------------------------------
Chicago: where rivers leak and bridges fall up...
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 90/130W H4 QI headlight bulbs wanted
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 9 Jan 93 21:25:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> daylight?  I've never found headlight beams to be annoying during the
-> day, and I think motorcyclists should run with high-beams on in
-> daylight (they need every chance they can get to be seen by
-> "blind" 4-wheelers).

 1) motorcycle headlights can legally be MUCH brighter than car lights

 2) motorcycle lights tend to move around a lot, particularly ones
    attached to the fork tubes, as most are.  This gives a nice flashy,
    jittery eye-searing high beam, perfect for annoying car drivers,
    who will then try to kill you

 3) a) if you can't see a low beam, you probably can't see a high beam
    b) if you can't see something six feet tall, seven feet long, and
       over two feet wide moving down the road, you probably can't see
       it with a headlight on
                                                            
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mgooley@advtech.uswest.com ("Mark. Gooley")
Subject: Re: What is the resonable oil comsumption?
Organization: U S WEST Advanced Technologies
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 15:48:33 GMT

In article <4250@eastman.UUCP> golder@titan.ppd.kodak.com (Patrick Golder) writes:
>I have a Ford turbo 2.3 also.  Like yours, mine uses about 1 quart per 
>1000 miles.  I don't think you can consider this excessive for a turbo
>engine.  The turbo is hard on the oil & I think you have to expect 
>higher consumption than in a non-turbo engine.  As long as it's not
>getting any worse, just keep the level up, change it frequently, & don't
>worry about it.

My Audi turbo uses almost no oil between changes (3000 mi.)  Maybe it's
the design of a car more than turbo/non-turbo?

Mark.
mgooley@advtech.uswest.com
From: stangler@wyvern.twuug.com (Tom Stangler)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Steering wheel angle
Date: 12 Jan 93 13:45:13 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Wyvern Technologies
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8]

Andrew Lavigne (alavigne@bmerh930.bnr.ca) wrote:

: Anyone out there know if it is possible to have the steering wheel angle
: changed without an alignment??  The car still tracks perfectly; it doesn't
: pull off to the side.

Yes they can be "off center". Roads have "crowns" on them, and sometimes to
make the car go straight, you must turn the wheel a bit. Also, worn bushings
could require you to take up the slack in the steering by cocking the wheel.
	I'd hate to think the steering rack is so worn that the gears
"jumped" a tooth, or that the splines in the column did the same.

Check for slop in the steering system.

Tom..........stangler@wyvern.twuug.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kevins@eng.auburn.edu (Kevin Sullivan)
Subject: Re: Care and Feeding of Woodgrain Sides
Organization: Auburn University Engineering
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 16:25:04 GMT

This vinyl is pretty soft so you don't want to scratch it up with anything 
abrasive like polish/wax.  Just wash it with the rest of the car and use 
something like Armor-All that claims to protect vinyl stuff from UV exposure.
This is what I do on my '89 Voyager LE and it looks great.