HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: mmcevill@mitre.org (Michael A. McEvilley)
Subject: Re: Coreless Servos on Y harness
Organization: The MITRE Corporation
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 15:41:18 GMT

In article <16B4D7795.D2KAK@VM1.CC.UAKRON.EDU> D2KAK@VM1.CC.UAKRON.EDU 
writes:
> In one of my planes it is necessary to use two Futaba coreless servos
> on a "Y" harness. The problem is that when the servos are connected
> and the radio turned on, the servos chatter like they're trying to
> find center all the time. I have tried caps across the power leads,
> a stutter stoper (2 parts of a hex inverter on the signal line),
> and a seperate battery pack for the servos. NO LUCK. I called those
> wonderful folks at Futaba and after being on hold for about 45 minutes
> they said that if the servos chatter on a Y harness don't use the servos
> on a Y harness. And they pay those guys for this stuff! I have also
> experienced the same problem on two different receivers, so the receiver
> isn't the problem. The radios are 7UAP 1024 PCMs.  ANY ADVISE, COMMENTS,
> SOLUTIONS?  I am considering buying a JR 10 Channel PCM. Do they have the
> same problem?     THANKS GROUP!!!!!

I'm experiencing a similar problem right now.  I have a plane with 20" 
leads into each wing, and a >36" lead to the elevator servo mounted in the 
rear of the plane.  The servos are JR 2135's.  I am not using a Y harness 
and dont think that has anything to do with this problem.  When I turn on 
the xmitter, the servos (depending on the orientation and proximity of the 
xmitter antenna to the servos) go wild around neutral.  

I read in RCM (Dec '91 p. 11 and Nov '91 p.94) that the high impedance of 
some newer JR servos (I didnt have the problem with my older JR 4031's and Futaba 9201's) result in chatter due to high frequency stuff getting 
to the servo amp.  I talked with JR and they said that this problem exists with the 4131's.  Their solution is to put a .01uf capacitor across the signal and ground wires, inside the servo!  They commented that although the capacitor can be put across the servo leads, the most effective solution is to put the capacitor on the servo pc board. They told me to send the servos back and they will install the capacitors under warranty.

With regards to the PCM-10, I have owned one for 2 years, and it is a 
fabulous radio.  The new, improved PCM-10S is now out (which means you can 
get a really great deal on the original PCM-10).

I owned Futaba equipment prior to my PCM-10 purchase.  I have no real 
gripes against the Futaba equipment, but their technical staff leave much 
to be desired.  When the time came to buy the super radio, the PCM-10 
offered more features that I wanted than the 9VAP.  

 
Michael A. McEvilley
mmcevill@mitre.org
From: pfoss@cmsa.gmr.com (Pete Foss PO/46)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: hinge
Date: 11 Jan 93 16:51:24 GMT
Reply-To: pfoss@cmsa.gmr.com
Organization: .................


In article 11917@cbnewsk.cb.att.com, hqp@cbnewsk.cb.att.com (hai.quang.pham) writes:
>
>
>I bought the Iron On Gapless Hinge from Granite State, but I did not
>use it yet, anybody in the nets use it? Do you have to do anything
>for the elevator or the rudder control?
>Thanks
>Hai Pham


I have used it once on a plane that the elevator had already been rehinged twice
and was out of places to put hinges.  It worked fine.  	I appears to be two, one inch
wide strips of Super Coverite sewn together (adhesive out).
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: cwc51@cas.org (Charles W. Collins)
Subject: Antique McCoy 35 engines
Organization: Chemical Abstracts Services
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 13:14:08 GMT


I have two antique McCoy 35 airplane engines, one of which has never been used.
Unfortunately, they are not equipped with an RC throttle control.  Can needle
valves
be replaced with an RC-style throttle?  Are these engines worth anything to a
collector?
They are at least 30 years old, maybe a few years older than that.

Thanks in advance for a response.

Chuck

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Charles W. Collins       |  Chemical Abstracts Services  | E-mail address
3419 Cheshire Rd.        |  2540 Olentangy River Road    | cwc51@cas.org
Delaware, Ohio   43015   |  Columbus, Ohio  43202        |
(614) 548-5052           |  (614) 447-3838 ext. 2517     | USA
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: asrgf@wombat.newcastle.edu.au
Subject: FOX address needed urgently!
Organization: University of Newcastle, AUSTRALIA
Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1993 11:41:46 GMT

Does anyone know the mail address or the fax number of the FOX Manufacturers?
Thanks, Ray.

Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: lew@4ccvw35.scg.hac.com (Lyman Lew)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Attaching canopy to fuselage
Date: 7 Jan 93 20:43:02 GMT
Reply-To: lew@4ccvw35.UUCP (Lyman Lew)
Organization: Hughes Aircraft Co., El Segundo, CA

In article <79381@hydra.gatech.EDU> mj4@prism.gatech.EDU (JONES,MICHAEL D.) writes:
>
>I am just finishing a Super Sportster 40.  The last thing that I need to do
>is glue the canopy to the fuselage.  The instructions mention using CA glue
>but I was wondering if epoxy or some other glue might be better.  Also, 
>should I glue the canopy to the monocote or should I cut the monocote where
>the canopy touches the fuselage?  I would appreciate any advice or personal
>experiences.
>
>Thanks,
>Michael
>
>-- 
>JONES,MICHAEL D.
>Georgia Institute of Technology, Atlanta Georgia, 30332
>uucp:	  ...!{decvax,hplabs,ncar,purdue,rutgers}!gatech!prism!mj4
>Internet: mj4@prism.gatech.edu

I found RC56 glue by Wilhold to work best. It looks like white wood glue
but it dries clear and is very flexible. I found that CA will break loose
after a while because of its brittleness also, it may fog the canopy if
it kicks off too soon. 














Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: root@austin.ibm.com ()
Subject: Re: smoke systems for YS120FS
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 22:58:29 GMT
Reply-To: krueger@austin.ibm.com
Organization: IBM Austin

In article <726420983snz@harrier.demon.co.uk>, bob@harrier.demon.co.uk (Bob day) writes:
> In article <96095@rphroy.ph.gmr.com> pfoss@cmsa.gmr.com writes:
> 
> On the 120 four stroke I ws thinking of using one of these Perry oscillating 
> pumps.... Presumably the smoke fuel will  eventually screw up any ruber bits
> inside it, but I picked it up cheap at an auction..
> 
> cheers
> 
> bob
> 

Perry now makes the oscillating pump in 2 forms - one for glow fuel,
the other for petroleum products, including smoke goo.   Along with
these pumps, they also make check valves in both glow and gas
flavors.
-
I have one of these, and it worked extremely well on a Saito .80,
so long as I could keep the Saito running, which wasn't very long.
The only drawback to the oscillating pump for smoke fluid is that
when the engine slows down, so does the pump: at the top of a
manuever like a stall-turn, where you probably go back to idle,
the smoke stops!

I've thought about adding smoke to my pumped Surpass II 120,
by attaching this Perry pump, but then, there's no place on the
engine backplate to attach the pump mounting plate because of the
OS's fuel pump.  Drat!

One neat installation I've seen was on a larger (1/4 scale) Lazer
200 with one of the OS Gemini twins in it - he had a regular 12v
fuel pump for gasoline (like you mount on your flight box) wired
up to some sort of a small rechargable 12v battery in the plane.

The pump output went through a needle valve mounted inside the
fuse next to the pump, so he could change the amount of smoke
fluid being pumped.  This thing would put out enuf smoke so that
he could go up into a hanging torque roll, and hide the airplane!

I believe that the only 'heating' mods were that he completely
encased the stock OS mufflers in some kind of black goo that looks
like undercoating material - he said this kept the heat in the
muffler, like an insulating blanket - then he pushed brass tubing
through the black stuff parallel to the muffler.  He ran the smoke
fluid tubing to the head end of this brass tubing, then from the
other end of the brass to the muffler pressure tap.  Same setup
on both sides of the engine.  Whatever it was, it worked!

+------------------------------+------------------------------------+
|  Tom "Krash" Krueger         |    IBM Adv. Wrkstn. & Sys. Division|
|  AMA 374525                  |    Austin, Texas                   |
|  krueger@austin.ibm.com      |    "Home of the RISC System/6000"  |
+------------------------------+------------------------------------+


Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: paal-sb@hsr.no (Paal Steinar Berg)
Subject: Re: What is Adjustable Timing?
Organization: Rogaland University Centre
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 09:00:02 GMT

In article <9310017@hplsla.hp.com>, davidc@hplsla.hp.com (David Cook) writes:
> I notice that some of the electric motors sold for R/C cars and trucks
> feature adjustable timing. What is adjustable timing and what does it
> do for you?
> 
> Thanks in advance for your responses.
> 
> Dave
> 

You adjust the timing of the electrical motors by turning the backplate (with the
brushes) one way or the other. When you turn it against the rotation direction (i
think) you advance the timing and increase rpm. Just like increasing the
pre-ignition (yeah i know great english) on an 1:1 scale auto engine. 
If you increase the timing to much the motor becomes very hot, and the
life-expectancy goes down. The trick is to find the optimum power vs economy
setting

Paal
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: mwp@ms9.mis.semi.harris.com (Mark W. Poole)
Subject: Airborne Battery Monitor Schematic
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 18:22:57 GMT
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Reply-To: mwp@ms9.mis.semi.harris.com
Organization: Harris Semiconductor

Over the Holidays I built a on-board battery monitor, similar
to the "Go-Light" available from ZZ enterprises but I believe this
to be better, and costs less.  The schematic was published in an 
RC helicopter magazine a while back, a fellow netter told me about 
it.  It works great and I plan to put one in all my planes.   
I'm posting the schematic for all of you that may be interested, 
I purchased all the required parts for a total of $6.30.

The unit has 6 leds: three green, two yellow, one red and has an 
adjustable potentiometer that allows you to set the voltage
at which the red led lights up.  I set mine to illuminate the red
led at 4.75 volts.  Whats especially nice about it is that it shows
you HOW MUCH the voltage drops when the servos are actuated, as well
as the current voltage.  For example, when the batteries are fully
charged, the topmost green led is illuminated, but when you start
actuating the servos, you'll illuminate the second or third green
led as the voltage gets lowered by the immediate drain.  After flying
a while, the second green led will be illuminated when the servos are
idle,but the third green led and first yellow led get illuminated 
when the servos are actuated.  You never have to guess the voltage
of your batteries, and you have much more information than a simple
"green for yes, red for no" device like the "Go-Light".

I'm sold on it.

Mark.

--------------------------------------------------- 
Battery Monitor Schematic
---------------------------------------------------

The unit is based on a LM3914 in a 18 pin package.

Pin
1	n/c
2	gnd
3	v+
4 	39K res to gnd
5	wiper of 1K or 2K 10 turn trim pot
6 	to pin 7
7	to pin 6 and R1 to pin 8
8	R1 to pin 7 and R2 to gnd
9	jumper to v+ for bar mode,open for dot mode
10	green LED cathode, anode to V+
11	green LED cathode, anode to V+
12	green LED cathode, anode to V+
13	yellow LED cathode, anode to V+
14	yellow LED cathode, anode to V+
15	red LED cathode , anode to V+
16-18 n/c

V+ to C1 (2.2uf tant) to ground.

The trim pot is connected between v+ and gnd (a voltage divider)
V+ connects to you rx system battery + and gnd to -.  Set the trim
pot to illuminate the red led at the voltage you believe to be
"unacceptable".  I used 4.75 volts.

Parts List:
-----------

1 - LM3914(National) LED Display Driver			$2.00
1 - 2.2uf tant cap					  .50
1 - 820 ohm res. 					  .15
1 - 220 ohm res. 					  .15
1 - 39kohm res.						  .15
1 - 1k or 2k 10 turn pot.				 1.50 
3 - Green LEDs 						  .30
2 - Yellow LEDs 				          .20
1 - Red LED (2ma LED for low current app)		  .10
1 - Radio Shack blank pc board				 1.25
                                                       -------
						Total:  $6.30
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc,alt.religion.kibology
From: newberg@aneurism.mscg.com (bill newberg)
Subject: Re: KiboKrap here...AHRG!
Followup-To: rec.models.rc,alt.religion.kibology,misc.test,alt.smouldering.dog.zone
Organization: GhostBuster Central - Southern NH Usenet Access, Nashua, NH
Date: Tue, 05 Jan 93 22:02:29 GMT

sorgatz@avatar.tti.com (sorgatz) writes:

> In article <C0Ayy4.IF9@world.std.com> kibo@world.std.com (James "Kibo" Parry) writes:
> >
> >Kibo's own glow engines use a special silencer which convert the sound
> >into a radio-frequency broadcast which is emitted at exactly the
> >frequency--and air time--of the Fox sitcom "Married With Children."
> >
> >JTYWLTK.
> >					-- Kibo

>  Mr Parry, would you kindly stop posting your nonsense in groups like 
> rec.models.rc? You already have an entire sub-species hierarchy devoted
> completly to your 'kibology' garbage...isn't that a significant enough 
> waste of bandwidth? Twit..

Mr. Sourgrapes, er, Sorgatz, would you kindly stop posting your nonsense in
groups like alt.religion.kibology? You already have an entire sub-species
hierarchy devoted completely to your 'models' garbage...isn't that a
significant enough waste of bandwidth? Asshole..

-- 
bill -- besides, i thought it was cute.  some people apparently have no
        sense of humour.
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: jahr@hprnd.rose.hp.com (Steve Jahr)
Subject: Re: out of control
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 21:20:04 GMT
Organization: Old Programmers Home
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.8 PL6]

I have tried a couple of different things for switches...

On one plane I wired up a normal connection socket so that I could
plug in either a ESV to 1 and 2 or a special 'turn on the Rx' jumper
plug to 2 and 3.  Had the side benefit of having the charger connection
built-in and ready for use on the outside.

On another plane (still in progress) I have placed a standard switch
inside aligned side to side.  In line with the switch I have glued inner
nyrod guides and aligned small holes in the fuselage sides.  The switch
is actuated by sliding a special rod into either side of the fuselage:
one side to turn on and one side to turn off.  Advantages include no
large holes and nothing sticking out.  Disadvantage is you can't tell
at a glance if the Rx is turned on or not and it requires a "special"
tool for operation.

A word of warning to 'gas' plane owners however:  do not use anything
but a *positive* connection for the switch.  Normal toggle switches,
phono jacks, etc. with spring loaded contacts are not suitable for use
where engine vibration exists.

And a suggestion... when selecting or customizing switch setups look
for double pole switches and then connect both poles in parallel.  This
provides some degree of fault tolerance via redundant connections.  Most
all of the standard Rx switches are of this type and setup this way (as
well as many Tx switches).

Steve Jahr
jahr@hprnd.rose.hp.com

Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: mkfeil@bcrki9.bnr.ca (Max Feil)
Subject: Re: Spinner backplate slippage cure
Reply-To: mkfeil@bcrki9.bnr.ca (Max Feil)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Ottawa, Canada
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 93 23:15:08 GMT

In article <LARRY.93Jan8095249@peak.psl.nmsu.edu>,
larry@peak.psl.nmsu.edu (Evil Engineer doin' it the Cowboy Way) writes:
> The only potential problem I see with this idea is that [some types of]
> cutoff disks are a bit brittle and might want to crack under stress. An
> equally simple solution is a couple of disks of 180 sandpaper, back to
> back.
> 
> The tiny hole in the cutoff disk has to be enlarged, and it can be
> difficult to drill it out without breaking some types of disks.
>

Good points. My disks are quite brittle, but they seem to hold together
ok in this application. Also, to drill the hole the disk must be sandwiched
firmly between two pieces of something (wood). Mine slipped a bit so the
holes are not exactly on center, but it's good enough. Also, it's hard on the
drill bit since the disks dull the main cutting surface. I was desperate
though.

Max
--
Max Feil  mkfeil@bnr.ca | Disclaimer:
Bell-Northern Research  |   What do I know? I'm just a Nerd on the Big Ranch.
P.O Box 3511 Station C, |
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada.| "Enrich The Soil, Not EveryBody's Goal" Peter Gabriel
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: egdorf@zaphod.lanl.gov (Skip Egdorf)
Subject: The Chup (was  Re: Dynaflite Skeeter and other HLG)
Organization: Los Alamos National Laboratory
	<298@heimdall.sdrc.com>
Distribution: rec
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 20:52:23 GMT

In article <298@heimdall.sdrc.com> dqwelch@sgidq4.sdrc.com (Mike Welch) writes:

     The Chuperosa, from Culpepper models was the best I've built.
     The kit is very good.  Although the foam wing can be intimidating
     the first time.  There are two version: Aileron or Polyhedral.
     If your going to fly on a slope, I would reccomend
     the aileron version.

     Nothing comes close the Chuppy's versatility.
     It's great on a slope and will thermal very good 
     when build light.
     I've built two. The first one used the E214.
     This is a relatively thick and under
     cambered airfoil.  Is will slow down to a crawl when landing.

     The other Chuppy used a SD7037.  This is an extremely smooth flyer.
     I built it light (13.75 oz.)
     I fly this mainly HL thermal.  It's a great plane.

     Are there any other Chuperosa fans out there?

Count me in! I have two Chups. One aileron, One poly. Both SD7037.
It is about as close as I have found to the one sailplane that
everyone should own.

The coupled aileron/rudder gives nice turns and wonderful rolls. It
thermals very well and is fast when the wind is blowing.

Mine came in right at 16 oz. with 1 oz in the nose.

Don't be put off by the foam wing. It is a snap to build. If anyone
picks up the kit and wants tips, post a call for help, and those
of us who do foam will be glad to offer tons of advise.

					Skip Egdorf
					hwe@lanl.gov
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: mju@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (michael.j.urban)
Subject: Re: Quiet combat?
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 21:55:52 GMT


...  some earlier stuff deleted ...


>There aren't any now, because noone has really tried to design one.  I 
>guarantee that within 1 month of an AMA rule requiring mufflers, you 
>will see ads in the model magazines for commercial units for sale.  

	
	I guess we will just have to disagree on this one.  The current
	absence of product is not due to lack of development effort.
	There have been a number of attempts to develop suitable
	mufflers.  None has been produced that were acceptable.  Do you
	really think you're the first to climb on this particular soapbox?
	
	Fortunately, the AMA historically has been unwilling to legislate
	the use of equipment that does not exist.  We are currently
	working very hard to develop engine shutoffs that will detect
	the loss of cetrifugal force when a plane gets cut away.
	I would not be surprised to see them required some day, but for
	now the AMA is just staying abreast of developments, and is
	giving us a chance to develop workable systems.
	
>> 	
>> 	I would like all the RC flyers out there to note that the single
>> 	loudest event in all of model aviation is one of your own, and
>> 	that is Pylon Racing.  Not only are they loud, but there are
>> 	usually FOUR of them going at once, and they are up there in the
>> 	sky where the noise propogates more widely than when on a 60 foot
>> 	tether.  I would be the last to suggest that they be placed under
>> 	some kind of noise level regulation.  
>
>OK then, I will be the first to suggest that R/C Pylon must also have 
>silencers!  Tell me, are there pylon racers practicing at your 
>control line field?


	No.  But, they would be welcome.

>
>>       To someone who appreciates
>> 	high performance model engines, that stuff is music, not noise.
>> 	However, it does sort of irritate me to have an RC flyer complain
>> 	about the noise of a competition control line event, when the
>> 	competition RC event is louder.
>
>It's not the noise at the Nationals that bothers me, but the noise at 
>my home field where I fly every week.  The noise at my home field is 
>not going to get any quieter until the rules for combat are changed. 
>You don't have to listen to R/C pylon racers every time you fly.  Why 
>should I have to listen to open exhaust combat engines every time I 
>fly?  


	So, competition is fine, as long as it doesn't interfere with
	your flying at what you perceive to be your home field.
	Sorry, but I've seen photos from some of our club's oldtimers,
	showing control line contests at that field back in the fifties.
	There may well have been RC activity there just as early, but
	it is most certainly no more your field than mine.  We are happy
	to share the field with you, and anyone else.  However, we have no
	intention of putting mufflers on our combat engines.

>
>Maybe some of the musicians of R/C pylon can converge on your field 
>for a little music democracy.
> 	

	Like I say, we would welcome them.  Would you?
	
	
	Mike
	
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: larry@peak.psl.nmsu.edu (Evil Engineer doin' it the Cowboy Way)
Subject: Re: Engine problems
Organization: New Mexico State University, MetaPhysical Science Laboratory
	<LARRY.93Jan5132642@rock.psl.nmsu.edu>
	<C0Hrot.7wD@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu>
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 17:40:00 GMT

>>>>> On Thu, 7 Jan 1993 16:12:29 GMT, ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib) said:
	[...]

Isk> One thing I've gone to exclusively is the remote needle. This
Isk> is easy to make: use an OS FP R/C NVA - fuel comes in off the
Isk> side and comes out at the end. I use it with bladder pressure
Isk> but I'm sure it'll work with suc- tion - OS used to sell a
Isk> remote needle bracket for its engines that at- tached to the
Isk> backplate. You also got a replacement jet for the carb. In
Isk> either case you need to make sure there are no leaks - use a
Isk> piece of small fuel tubing over the needle.

Isk> At the engine end you can drill and tap for a fuel nipple
Isk> (eg. Du Bro's) if you are using pressure or just use an old
Isk> NVA with a broken needle in it (or a needle opened wide, or
Isk> seal off the needle end with solder).

You know, I'm really interested in this idea for my big stunt ships. If it
works well (and I can't see why it should not), it would be great. You
could relocate the NV to a safe (and convenient) location and not have to
hack holes in the side of the cowl for it. 

I'm going to order one soon and try it. I'll let you know how it works.
Who knows, it might become a hot trick for CLPA ships.

L.

P.S. Iskandar, I received the control lines OK and sent you a letter with
payment for the same out last week. You should get it soon.

Thanks again.

L.
"Yeh, Buddy..            | larry@psl.nmsu.edu (Larry Cunningham)|  _~~_
 I've got your COMPUTER! | % Physical Science Laboratory        | (O)(-)
 Right HERE!!"           | New Mexico State University          |  /..\ 
 (computer THIS!)        | Las Cruces, New Mexico, USA 88003    |   <> 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Disclaimer: Opinions expressed here are CORRECT, mine, and not PSLs or NMSUs..
Oh sure, we could do it the _easy_ way. But it just wouldn't be the COWBOY WAY.