From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Questions on remodeling ideas.
Reply-To: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 92 18:03:05 GMT

In article <1992Jul31.150621.3493@sactoh0.sac.ca.us> jhp@sactoh0.SAC.CA.US (Jim H. Puga) writes:

>I want to upgrade the electrical panel to about 150 or 200 amps.
>Does this present a problem for a DYI or should I leave this to an
>electrician?

The procedure is relatively straightforward, but it varies from location
to location (because of code differences), and there's some danger of
heavy-duty electrical shock.

a. Go down to the municipal building and inquire into building permits.
   You want a single trade major modification permit for electrical work.
b. While there, inquire into the code. At the least, they should tell you
   the name of the electrical code used in your area and how to look it up
   in the library.
c. Look up the sections on service cable and panels and note all of it
   down. You'll find out, for example, whether the service must be run in
   conduit or not, the radii of cable bend allowed, distances from chimneys,
   etc. You may find that you cannot locate the new service where the old
   one was.
d. Decide, based on this, whether you *really* want to do this.
e. Say "what the hell" and buy the permit. Normally the inspector wants to
   see the job before you start. When (s)he comes out to do this, pick
   brains. Ask any question you think of. Find out exactly what they want
   to see and do it that way. Remember that they would rather come back
   only one time. Translate "I think" or "You should" into "You have to".
f. Buy the box, breakers, necessary wire and connections, and pick up a
   new meter box (probably). The power company may supply this.
g. Pull the main breaker, then cut the seal and pull the main meter.
h. Use a wood ladder, gloves, etc. and climb up and disconnect the main
   line coming in from the pole (I'm assuming an aerial service). Work
   on one wire at a time. Usually they connect to your service with a
   screw clamp. You untape it, loosen it, and tape the bare end of the
   power company's line. THIS LINE WILL BE HOT WITH A HIGH AMPERAGE
   BREAKER ON THE POLE PIG. IT'S NOT FUN TO TOUCH IT.
i. Remove the old service, meter box, and breaker box, tagging all of
   your inside circuits as you disconnect them.
j. Put up your new breaker box, meter box, etc. and hook your house
   circuits back up.
k. In some locations you can now re-connect the power to the service.
   In others, the power company has to do this. In most areas the job
   has to be inspected either before or within a few days of connection.
   
>Can the sheetrock on the ceiling be butted against each other or should
>the panels be zig-zagged(I know there's a word for this but it escapes
>me at the moment)?

My experience is that it doesn't matter from a structural viewpoint, but
you'll get some arguments about that. It's easier to tape if the joints
line up.

>I would like to replace the windows but am not sure how I can do it
>without destroying the outer walls.  Is there a way to replace the
>windows and leave the outer walls intact?

Depends on the window design, but most of them have trim around the outside
that covers the gap between the window frame and the house framing. This
will lie over the siding, so you can remove the old window and slide a new
one in. This is complicated by factors such as vinyl or aluminum siding,
however.
Pull the inside trim and cut the nails securing the window in place with
a hacksaw blade (just the blade, you probably won't be able to slide a saw
in the crack). Or take a cat's paw and pull them, if you don't want the
old windows. Then push the window out, prying the trim loose on the way.
This step is best done with two people, one inside & one out. Putting in
the new window should be the reverse of this. Use caulking to hide small
problems.

>I plan on installing speakers in almost every room, embedded in the
>walls(for now, some will just have the wires).  It appears the best place
>for the speakers are the exterior walls.  My main concern is that when
>I have the speakers going, can the neighbors hear what I am playing or
>is there a way to prevent the sound from getting through to the outside?
>Will the sound get through at all? Is regular speaker wire ok or should
>I use something better?

I don't have personal experience with this one, but you probably have
insulation, 3/8" or thicker sheathing, and 3/8" or thicker siding on that
wall. Yes, some sound will get through, but it shouldn't be much.

>I've been told to put twisted pair wire into the walls in case I ever
>need it.  What would I need this for?

Good question. Cable TV?

>What kind of wire would be run if I wanted to hook up a computer in one
>room to a machine in another(I would think serial but what type)?
>What can be done running wire like this?  I would like to get some ideas.

We use some sort of shielded cable here at work. Radio Shack can probably
take care of you.

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                    |
George Patterson -  | If train stations are where trains stop, 
                    | what are work stations?
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