HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: games@max.u.washington.edu
Subject: Re: What is the advantage of "worm drive"?  (was Re: Circular Saw recom)
Organization: 
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 22:20:09 GMT

In article <6072@tivoli.UUCP>, aqn@tivoli.UUCP (Andy Nguyen) writes:
> I know what a worm drive is, but what is a worm drive on a circular saw?
> What are its advantages?  Does it only save pushing the saw by hand?
> 

The best way to explain is to just highlight the basics of both saws.

On a normal circular saw, the motor is directly connected to the blade that
is spinning, and the motor sits at 90 degrees to your hand.  (ACROSS the path
of the cut)

On a worm drive saw, the motor is connected to the blade via a worm drive.
(like a pair of spiral gears at 90 to each other.)  The motor is paralell
to your hand (ALONG the direction of the cut)  This offers better mechanical
advantage for delivering power to the blade.  (ohh, the physicists out there
will slay me for my IMMACUALTE :( use of those words)

In any case, worm drives are bigger and heavier. They are less likely to bind
up in a cut.  And naturally since there are like $5.00 in extra parts (and
lower volume manufacturing) these savings are passed on to the consumer as
about a $50-$100 higher price tag.


			John.

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: sgs8r@kelvin.seas.Virginia.EDU (Steve Strickland, sgs8r@virginia.edu)
Subject: more on "Foundations of Mechanical Accuracy"
Organization: Dept. of Systems Eng., U.Va.
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 20:28:03 GMT

Well, I went to our library and found a copy of this book. 

Title: Foundations of Mechanical Accuracy  (not quite what I originally posted)
Author: Wayne R. Moore
Publisher: The Moore Special Tool Company, Bridgeport Conn.
Date: 1970 

It doesn't appear in Books in Print, but may still be available since it
is privately published. The copy I first saw a few years ago was new, so it was
available fairly recently.

Being over 20 years old, things may have changed a bit.

That said, this is an amazing book. Warning: anyone mechanically inclined who
sees this book will immediately find themselves lusting for a personal copy.
Truely a coffee-table book for the machinist (9x12 size, bound in cloth,
innumerable unique pictures and diagrams superbly produced). 

CONTENTS

Chapter 1: Geometry
Environmental effects on cast iron
The flat plate
Straightedges
The Female double V master
Machine design
The Moore No. 3 Design

Chapter 2: Standards of Length
History of Official Standards
Physical Standards as Measured in the Bureaus
Measurement in Science and Industry
Temperature Control
Transferal of Accuracy
Choice of Lenght-Measuring Element for Moore Measuring Machine
Moore Master Lead Screw

Chapter 3: Dividing the Circle
The Nature of the Third Mechanical Art
The Principle of Self-Proving the Division of the Circle
The Sine Principle
Circle Dividing Instruments
Principal Angle Standards
The 1440 Small Angle Divider

Chapter 4: Roundness
Why Consider Roundness
Measuring Roundness
Two types of Measuring Spindles
Moore Universal Measuring Machine Spindle
Not Just Roundness but Geometry
How to define Roundness

Chapter 5: Universal Measuring Machine Techniques and Applications




Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: grun@intellistor.com (Paul Grun)
Subject: Re: Circular Saw recommendations
Organization: Intellistor, Inc.
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 92 16:02:04 GMT

In <BxK3z6.Azo@pgroup.com> lfm@pgroup.com (Larry Meadows) writes:

>In article <WOODWORK%92111009520768@IPFWVM.BITNET> PH500000@BROWNVM.BITNET (Bob Pelcovits) writes:
>>Could you describe the Exac-t-cut system in some detail? Thanks,

>I have ordered one after reading the review in a recent FWW.  Unfortunately,
>the manufacturer appears to be so busy selling at trade shows that he hasn't
>filled my order yet.  I'll try to post something after I get it and build
>some stuff using it.

>Anyway, you should read the review, but it is basically a T-square with
>a long U-channel mounted on a piece of plywood and an arm holding the saw
>that slides in the channel.  Of the 3 or 4 that FWW tested, this one got
>the best reviews.

Since I posted the description of the thing, I found an ad for it in
the Woodworker's Supply catalog.  Correct name is Exac-T-Guide, and they
retail it for $199.  A four piece stop accessory is available for $40.
I don't have one, don't particularly lust after one, and don't work
for either Exac-T-Guide or WW Supply: just a hapless woodshow attendee.

-Paul
-- 

goes to show, you don't ever know...
grun@intellistor.com
From: kfitzsim@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Kevin Fitzsimons)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Router Table/Ext. for Tablesaw
Date: 9 Nov 92 20:11:21 GMT
Article-I.D.: magnus.1992Nov9.201121.7219
Organization: The Ohio State University

In article <30OCT92.09746255.0018.MUSIC@SJUMUSIC> ZGDSHSE <ZGDSHSE@SJUMUSIC.BIT
NET> writes:
>Hi Fellow Woodworkers -
>
>I have a Craftsman 10" Contractor's saw and would like to
>replace one of the table extensions for use as a router
>table.  I plan to make this of plywood with oak edges.
>
>Any suggestions, plans, etc.?  Before I dive into this project
>I would appreciate any warnings, ideas, etc.
>
>Thanks in advance -
>
>ene Sampson

Have I got a deal for you! I am just buying a Delta Unisaw and I have a 
beautiful router table with an Excaliber router table insert already installed.
I had long talks with myself about selling this setup. I too have a Sears saw 
with the Excaliber fence. It is wonderful to use. My neighbor is buying the saw
and fence, but he does not want the router table. I would sell it for $50.00 
plus shipping. It is 27" deep (standard) and about 23" wide. It would fit 
directly on to your saw. It is a 1/2" melamine with framing under for rigidity.
Call me evenings: Kevin Fitzsimons (614) 457-2010 for more info.
From: tiwana@uts.amdahl.com (Gurumukh Singh Tiwana)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: What is the best clear finish on wood?
Keywords: finish wood
Date: 6 Nov 92 18:19:47 GMT
Followup-To: rec.woodworking
Organization: Amdahl Corporation


	I am trying to give final finish to a piece of furniture and have
tried polyurathane (clear gloss) as the finishing material. This seems to
make the wood a lot darker that it is. Does anybody know of any finish that
will keep the appearance of the wood natural and not make it darker.

Gurumukh Tiwana
tiwana@uts.amdahl.com

-- 
Gurumukh Singh Tiwana
tiwana@uts.amdahl.com
tiwana@charon.amdahl.com
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 10 Nov 1992 07:56:06 -0800
From:         RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM
Subject:      Re: Wobble type dado blade.

My experence wit wobble dados is that they do put more stress on
motor shaft (makes the saw viberate a bit more too) and I'd be consurned
if I was goning to run it day after day for long periods. But for occasional
use I don't think there will be any problem.

If I were going to wory about any thing I'd wory about what the stress is
doing to the berrings; but, I don't think it's a problem.

                        Ron Tye (all opinions my own)
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Straight Edge for Jointer Alignment
Date: 5 Nov 92 17:17:19 GMT
Organization: LLNL

In article <1d9h2qINNljq@news.aero.org>, dgolber@aero.org (Dave Golber) writes:
> 
[deleted]
> This doesn't ring quite true to me, for many reasons.
> 
> However, here's how I have read that flat _surfaces_ are made (at a 
> _primary_ level):  Working with _three_ castings, they are successively
> laid against each other with machinists' dye.  The high spots are 
> scraped off.  When all three fit within a certain precision, then 
> all three are flat within a certain precision.
> 
> Not recommended as a home method.
Either way works, and I think that they are equivalent.  With optical means
and reversing direction, you actually have four straights (one on either
side of the middle, two bars or castings) instead of three.  The direction
reversal ensures that you are comparing at least three edges. The operational
difference is that you are scraping two rather than three objects.  I expect
the difference in effort is problematic, and in both cases you have to judge
which are actually high spots and which are low spots that got rubbed by
high spots.  Takes talent.
From: jbm@safn2.UUCP (John McClatchey)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Tools Made in America
Summary: RYOBI saws are made in America
Date: 11 Nov 92 14:16:26 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Southern Aluminum Finishing, Atlanta, GA

In article <1992Nov10.224711.6407@sequent.com>, djk@sequent.com (Darin Klaas) writes:
> All they are required to do is final assembly; i.e. the bulk of the router
> could still be manufactured in japan, with the case being attached to the
> moter in the US, and they could claim it was 'made in the USA'.  PBS
> documented that Matsushita did this with Quasar TVs not so long ago
> (Matsushita had a Quasar plant outside of Chicago).

My company anodizes the aluminum extruded parts on the Ryobi table saw.
Our customer is an American company which cuts and fabricates the parts.
They buy the extrusions from an American extruder.  The saws are assembled
in South Carolina.  My company is a small family business with plants in
Atlanta and Charlotte, NC.
From: tlp00@climb.as (Tibor Polgar)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Problem with router
Date: 12 Nov 92 04:26:10 GMT
Reply-To: tlp00@climb.as
Organization: Sun Microsystems


In article 141237@lll-winken.LLNL.GOV, gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot) writes:
>In article <1992Nov9.181100.10753@slustl.slu.edu>, guy@slustl.slu.edu (Guy Smith) writes:
>> 
>
>> My solution was to junk the Sears router and buy a Porter Cable.
>

Instead of junking the router JUST TAKE IT BACK AND GET A REFUND.   I did that with
my Sears router 2 years ago on the reason that it was lousy and i didn't like it any
more...... actually made money off it because it turned out i'd bought it on sale and
they gave me full retail.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: daved@convex.com (David Dorfman)
Subject: Re: Tools Made in America
Organization: CONVEX Computer Corporation, Richardson, Tx., USA
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 21:24:47 GMT
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by a user at CONVEX Computer
              Corp. The opinions expressed are those of the user and
              not necessarily those of CONVEX.

I believe Ryobi builds a lot of the tools sold in the US in the US, 
the question is are they making the correct amount of profit or passing it
back to japan by paying inflated prices for the sub-components?

Dave
From: scot@fc.hp.com (Scot Heath)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Straight Edge for Jointer Alignment
Date: 5 Nov 92 18:05:20 GMT
Article-I.D.: fc.Bx98wx.E2D
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Fort Collins Site
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.8 PL6]

Stan Armstrong (armstrng@cs.dal.ca) wrote:
: In article <17105@mindlink.bc.ca> Nick_Janow@mindlink.bc.ca (Nick Janow) writes:
: >apoyner@as.arizona.edu (Tony Poyner) writes:
: >
: >> What do other people use for a straight edge?
: >
: >Why not make one--or two actually.  Take two boards wide enough to be rigid
: >over the length you need.  Clamp them together side-by side....[etc.]
: >
: >Nick_Janow@mindlink.bc.ca
: I would like to do this, but what kind of wood can you find that will stay
: as straight as a straight edge needs to be under changes of temp. and
: humidity?
: -- 
: Stan Armstrong. Religious Studies Dept, Saint Mary's University, Halifax, N.S.
: Armstrong@husky1.stmarys.ca | att!clyde!watmath!water!dalcs!armstrng

In other words,

Just how straight could a straight edge stay if a straight edge could stay
straight?

Forget the wood, use metal.

-Scot
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: Tools Made in America
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 16:55:08 GMT

Tibor Polgar writes
> >Right now I have an immediate need for a good set of router bits.
> 
> Try BYROM,  or CMT.   Both are US i think. 

Byrom *was* made in the US (mostly), but they're out of business.

CMTs are made in Italy.

Eagle America (800) 872-2511 sells mostly American-made bits (although they  
don't and won't tell you who really makes them). Their catalog is great for you  
buy-American types (American flags, etc.), and they clearly mark which bits are  
not American made. I have some of their bits, and they seem just fine, although  
I prefer Bosch bits if Bosch makes the bit I need. I don't know where Bosch  
bits are made.

Bosch and Freud bits can be gotten from ITC of Florida (800) 338-3384 at
40% off, which is a good deal.

As for bit quality, I've never seen a good in-depth review. You want to check  
concentricity, brazing quality, and carbide smoothness and thickness.


- Bennett
From: donne+@pitt.edu (Jeffrey D Donne)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Help!  Table Saw Top is damaged!
Date: 5 Nov 92 21:23:46 GMT
Organization: University of Pittsburgh


   I know that this is a common question, but I never needed 
to pay attention until now.  Recently, someone was doing 
laundry at my house and decided that a convenient place to 
hang their wet clothes was on the top of my table saw.  
Needless to say, the top is rusted, badly in places, maybe
even pitted -- and so now I have to repair it.

   Can anyone suggest first, how to remove the rust, and secondly,
the preferred method for preserving the top after it is clean.
I seem to recall some folks suggesting standard car wax for the 
table top, others suggest spraying it with WD-40.

   Any and all comments are much appreciated!

Jeff D.
donne@ee.pitt.edu

From: markw@hpcss01.cup.hp.com (Mark Williams)
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 17:32:29 GMT
Subject: Re: Problem: Blotching on Natural Cherry Finish
Organization: Hewlett Packard, Cupertino
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

Blotchy staining is common with oil finishes.  The oil penetrates some
areas more than others (end grain and burl especially), it seems to be 
darker where there are open large pores.  Some different solutions are:  

WHAT THE FURNITURE FACTORIES DO:
Commercial finishers lay down a base coat of sealer, then spray on a very even
stain, then apply final laquer coat.  You get very even stain, but hide the
wood grain too much for my tastes.  This is a thin and fragile finish.

STAINS WITH FILLER:  Most recently I tried a stain with filler.  It contains
what seems like clay or fine sand, and fills the pores apparently.  
This stuff is recommended for woods with large open pores, especially walnut,
mahogany and oak.  I chose this because I was refinishing an old piece with
lots of dings, and I hate the way oil blackens surface defects on refinished
pieces.  I wanted to minimize this at least effort.  This worked quite well,
and is now my preferred way to go for refinishing in my opinion.  For new work,
it may hide the grain too much, so I want to try pre-stain next.

OIL PRE-STAIN SEALER:
One vendor (McClosky?) sells a "pre-stain" sealer oil to be used before stain
is applied.  It closes the pores without hiding the wood.  Stain and finish as
usual.  I think I will give this a try on my next staining cycle.
From: smb@ulysses.att.com (Steven Bellovin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Duginske's book ``Mastering Woodworking Machines''
Date: 9 Nov 92 20:02:43 GMT
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories

Has anyone seen the book?  Is it any good?  Is it worthwhile to someone
who already owns FWW's ``Power Saws and Planers''?  What machines are
covered?

		--Steve Bellovin
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: dls@wuee1.wustl.edu (Donald L. Snyder)
Subject: Re: computer indexes to woodworking mags
Organization: Washington University, St. Louis Mo.
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 01:42:29 GMT

In article <1djhabINN8re@bredbeddle.cs.purdue.edu> sjc@cs.purdue.edu (Steve Chapin) writes:
>}} In article <Nov.6.21.01.46.1992.2027@pilot.njin.net> furr@pilot.njin.net (Grover Furr) writes:
>}} 
>}} I saw the names of two software indexes to Woodworking mags a couple
>}} of months ago, and didn't save them. Could someone please either post
>}} them again or email me the info? If emailed, I'll repost. In either
>}} case, thanks.
>
>I didn't see this.  If someone does have them, and they're in the
>public domain, I'd be interested in adding them to the woodworking
>information archive.
>
>sjc@cs.purdue.edu               Steve Chapin           Today's Grammar Lesson:
>

I am unaware of any public domain software indices to woodworking magazines,
but some for $$ are advertised regularly in Fine Woodworking.  Here is
some I got out of the Dec '92 issue:
  1.  The PC Index
      Meredith Associates
      P.O. Box 792
      Westford, MA 01886-0792
      tel: 1-800-392-0255
      cost: $34.95
      coverage: see the ad, page 43, FW Dec 92

  2.  Knotwhole Publishing
      5629 Main St. - Putney
      Stratford, CT 06497
      coverage: see ad, page 104, FW Dec 92
      -- it's unclear what's available from the ad since they say
             "no computer needed"

  3.  Woodfind
      Box 2703F
      Lynnwood, WA 98036
      cost: $49.95
      coverage: 10 "leading magazines"
      see ad, page 104, FW Dec 92

  4.  Infodex Services
      Dept. 5102
      10609 King Arthurs
      Richmond, VA 23235-3840
      cost: $44.95
      see ad, page 104, FW Dec 92

I'd be interested in comments on these various sources.  I haven't tried
any of them.


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: problem with planer
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 02:10:02 GMT

Earlier, I wrote:

: It sounds like the right side of your feed/pressure roller is jammed.
: It may be that the pressure spring(s) is/are broken, or there may be
: something blocking it vertically.
: 
: Fix that, and I am willing to bet that your problem will go away.

I have thought of another possibility. Your spindle might not be parallel
to the beds. My apologies for not mentioning this before.

: Bill
From: fichtenbaum@desire.wright.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: chest of drawers
Date: 9 Nov 92 16:10:59 EST
Organization:  Wright State University 

I am making a chest of drawers using Norm's shaker design.  He suggests
gluing the frames to hold the drawers into blind dados.  It occurs to me
that this method might create some problems because of wood movement.
Unfortunately I have already cut all of the dados which I am sure
limits my options.  Has anyone built a chest of drawers using this design?
Will wood movement create problems?  If yes does anyone have a suggestion
about how I can deal with the problem.

 Rudy Fichtenbaum
Fichtenbaum@desire.wright.edu

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: general purpose router recommendations?
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 16:30:04 GMT

G. Paul Houtz writes
> I haven't yet found a non-plunge 15 amp router with built in EVS and
> speed control for under $300.00.    So I am sticking to my Bosch.

The PC 7518 is a 5 speed, electronically controlled, 15 amp, non-plunge 
router that sells for about $260-$265 mail order these days. The captive
spiral depth adjustment should work particularly well upside down (in 
contrast Elu's big non-plunger has a non-captive spiral, so the motor 
will fall down when the clamp is loosened).

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com


From: gph@hpindda.cup.hp.com (Paul Houtz)
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 00:53:00 GMT
Subject: Re: What finish for oak sideboard?
Organization: HP Information Networks, Cupertino, CA
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking


I would scrape rather than sand.

A good quality steel scraper, properly edged and burnished, will give you a
much better surface than sanding.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: asket@acad2.alaska.edu
Subject: Brazilian Bloodwood (?)
Organization: University of Alaska
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 02:41:13 GMT

All right, I found the jade green marble top for this writing table,
now I have to work on the G-clef, music staff inlay around the front,
back, and sides (and across the drawers) of the table top.  Berea
Hardwoods recommended Brazilian Bloodwood--has anyone ever worked
with it?  The table is cherry, and I want something that will accent
the red of the cherry as it darkens over time, and I'd like to use
an inlay wood that will keep its color and contrast with the cherry.
The cherry was sawn ten years ago, so other than ambient humidity
effects, I don't expect the cherry to shrink away from the inlay.
I hate buying wood by mail, especially at $11 pbf plus shipping.
Has anyone worked with bloodwood?  Will this work, or will it
be a nightmare to handle, or look really gross?  Does bloodwood
have other names, because I can't find it in my wood directory.
       Thanks!    Karl Thoennes  Univ of Alaska
From: hollen@megatek.UUCP (Dion Hollenbeck)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Circular Saw recommendations
Date: 9 Nov 92 22:17:31 GMT
Organization: Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California

>>>>> On 9 Nov 92 18:59:18 GMT, FABY@NMUMUS.BITNET (FABY000) said:
Roger> Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU

Roger> I recommend taking a close look at the worm drive sawa.  They are easier
Roger> to cut a straight line with and some are less that $150.  Consumer
Roger> Reports only tested one worm drive saw.  There are several others.

I recently had the opportunity to use a worm drive saw for the first
time.  I was amazed at how easy they were to cut a straight line with.
I was skeptical at having to be a gorilla to lift it, but the most of
the weight is resting on the wood, so it was not a problem.  The one I
was using was owned by a fence contractor and was a Skil.  I looked at
the price at Home Depot and they are only about $130.  The Makita was
in the same range.  I wish I could justify replacing my current
circular saw with one of these.

-- 
Dion Hollenbeck       UUCP: {uunet, ucsd, sun}!megatek!hollen
                      INTERNET:            hollen@megatek.com
Megatek Corporation  9645 Scranton Rd.  San Diego, Ca.  92121
From: ron@topaz.bds.com (Ron Natalie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Skeptical about biscuit joiners
Date: 9 Nov 1992 15:08:06 GMT
Organization: BDS Systems
Distribution: na
NNTP-Posting-Host: topaz.bds.com

> I would like to comment regarding the thread regarding the strength of biscuit > joints.  If used properly, the biscuit, like dowels, adds very little 
> structural strength to the joint.  Rather, it serves to align the surfaces 
> during gluing.  The GLUED JOINT SURFACE is what provides the strength for the > joint.  The surfaces must be prepared properly as with all glued joints, be
> they plain, doweled, or biscuited (don't you just love the way new verbs can 
> be made in english?).

I disagree.  There is quite a lot of strength (if not all of it) provided by
the glue/biscuit/slot interface.  I biscuit plywood together all the time.
It is certainly not the glued joint surface that imparts any strength.  It
wouldn't work with plywood.  I don't even put glue anywhere but on the biscuit
and it's slot.  I have endgrain to long grain joints in some outdoor furniture
as well.  Yellow glue by itself is not providing anything here.  All the
strength is provided by the biscuit and it's glue.

Nope, not a failure in any of the plywood stuff (mostly extremely over stuffed
bookcase) nor in the outdoor furniture, nor any of the lighter indoor stuff.
I did biscuit together the 2x6 rails and styles of the doors to my garden
shed, so OK, it does have limits.  Probably wood have worked with more biscuits
though :-).

-Ron


-Ron
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