HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: markm@wri.com
Subject: One-day photo trips from Phoenix
Reply-To: markm@wri.com
Organization: Wolfram Research, Inc.
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 20:27:57 GMT


My father and I will be visiting his parents in Phoenix over the Thanksgiving  
holiday.  We'd like to plan a one-day photo trip for the day after  
Thanksgiving; leaving early and returning late.  We've both been out there  
several times in the past and have found some interesting scenery nearby.   
We've done the Lake Pleasant thang, (btw, is it underwater yet?) and we've gone  
up to Sedona and to Taliesen West and the Phoenician.  We're looking for  
something new and different.

If all else fails, we'll drive up to Sedona and Oak Creek Canyon again.

If you respond by email, I'll gladly summarize the responses.  Hey, what an  
idea for a FAQ!  We could maintain a list of locations and recommended things  
to shoot.  Hmmmm....

Thanks for your input!
--Mark Moline
markm@wri.com

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: robert@sys.sweden.dg.com (Robert Claeson)
Subject: Re: AGFA, Fuji, Kodak or ?
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 16:00:13 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Data General AB, Akalla, Sweden

In article <1992Oct7.170436.7525@cbnewsm.cb.att.com>, ka1gt@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (robert.m.atkins) writes:

> Yes, Agfa slide films are E-6 (or at least E-6 compatible, Agfa may have
> their own designation).

They have, just like Fuji has their own.

> I have used CT100 and CT200 and found them to be
> quite good. Colors were neutral and grain was not a problem. However, they
> did not show any characteristics that would make me give up Fujichrome (50
> or 100) or Kodachrome 200. I didn't feel the Agfa films were quite as sharp
> as the equivalent speed Fujichrome and Kodachromes, and I found the color
> balance a little to cool and muted for my taste. I'm sure they are capable
> of yielding fine results, but I think I'll stick to Fujichrome and Kodachrome.

The new Agfachrome RS Plus films (and the CT100i) has more saturated and a
bit warmer colours.

Agfa concentrates more on accurate and natural colours than "attractive"
colours, as Fuji and Kodak does in their more recent films.

-- 
------------------------------ END OF MESSAGE ------------------------------
Robert Claeson                Internet: robert@sys.sweden.dg.com
Data General AB                         robert@sys.dg.se
Box 28                             CEO: robert@sys.sweden.dg.com:dg-smtp
S-164 93 KISTA                     Tel: +46 (0)8-92 55 00
Sweden                             Fax: +46 (0)8-751 36 22
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au (Paul Repacholi)
Subject: Error in Kodak B-3 filter book
Organization: Curtin University of Technology
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 20:00:39 GMT

Since we were just talking about filters CIE and the like...

Kodak have made a leetle blunder in B-3, "Handbook of Kodak Photographic
Filters." Page 149 is MEANT to be a CIE diagram for daylight... The captions
are right, but the diag is a repeat of p146. So if you are feeling confused
as you refer to it, now you know why...

Mike, or some one from K, could you point this out to the right folks please.

~Paul

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au (Paul Repacholi)
Subject: Re: Need Info on Light Meters
Organization: Curtin University of Technology
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 15:28:31 GMT

In article <1betuuINN5s7@zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu>, yyh@osustat.mps.ohio-state.edu (Yu-Yun Ho) writes:
> I am planning on buying a light meter, since each and every
> photography book I read mentioned the impotance of a light meter.
> 

Since you don't seem to have any odd requirements, I would recomend a Gossen
Luna Six. It isn't cheap, but: it will last forever and a day, is built like a
brick, you can get Spot and enlarging atachments, good low light response, the
batterys last forever ( I got mine in about '75 second hand and I think I put
new ones in, they are still going strong!! ).

The cost of a good meter is well worth it. You will get decades of use out of
a good one, so it's worth spending up IMHO.

~Paul
From: jimf@centerline.com (Jim Frost)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Good photo shop(s) in Boston area?
Date: 7 Oct 92 15:48:01 GMT
Organization: CenterLine Software, Inc.
NNTP-Posting-Host: 140.239.3.202

I'm looking for a good photo shop in the Boston/Watertown/Belmont/
Cambridge/Waltham area for equipment purchase and developing/printing.
Quality and reliability is more important than price (so long as the
price is within a stone's throw of reasonable), and a friendly
question-answering shop is desirable.

Email responses are requested; I'll post a summary.

jim frost
jimf@centerline.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Nikon F3 for sale!
From: gmiller@vax1.umkc.edu
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 18:19:57 GMT
Organization: University of Missouri - Kansas City

Nikon F3, w/ M2 motor drive. Excellent condition,
looks like new and works perfectly.
From: chorley@vms.ocom.okstate.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: need advice on Rollei 25S
Date: 7 Oct 92 22:15:29 GMT
Organization: OSU College of Osteopathic Medicine

In article <RINGO.92Oct6104102@grand-cayman.icad.com>, ringo@icad.com (Amy Gorin) writes:
> 
> hello.
> 
> I've aquired a camera which claims to be a "Rollei 25S," produced in 
> Singapore by the Rollei company.  I'm looking for instructions on
> its use (I can't even open the bloody thing to put film in it), and
> an idea of its value.  
> 
> Is anyone out there familiar with this camera?  (Has anyone ever heard
> of it?)
> 
  	My guess is you have a Rollei {35 S} which is a sweet and 
delightful camera, once you have mastered its idiosyncacies. If so. the 
lens will be a 35mm f/2.8 Sonnar which collapses into the camera body. It 
is released by pushing a small red button at about the "eight o'clock" 
position as you look at the front of the camera. The lens moves forward and 
you turn it (gently) to lock it into position.
	Opening the back is achieved by turning a locking device on the 
bottom (there may be two of those, my memory fails me) and removing the 
entire back (without excess force) in a downward direction. It is not 
hinged, but there is a hinged pressure plate. I hope that this is of some 
help to you. If I have guessed correctly about the model type, then there 
was at least one article in Shutterbug within the last two years (some help
, huh?) concerning the range of Rollei pocket 35s.

	You will know if I'm right if you break a fingernail trying to 
change the ASA/DIN setting on the light meter.

	There is also a collector's market out there for these (but mostly 
the German made ones) so don't sell it for a song.

	Regards,
		 David Chorley (now trading as Dr. Strabismus)
From: fontana@iguana.cis.ohio-state.edu (Mark Fontana)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: empty film canisters FAQ
Date: 16 Oct 92 23:38:53 GMT
Article-I.D.: cis.1992Oct16.233853.8731
Organization: The Ohio State University Dept. of Computer and Info. Science


[misc uses of 35mm film canisters...]

>> |>These are also handy for carrying peanut butter, which seems to attract 
>> |> birds and animals, in the field. 
  ...
>    7. Storing negatives in.


At the cinema where I work, we store old date strips in these. 
(Date strips are the pieces removed from trailers with dates, like
"Opens December 12 at Theatres Everywhere", which we remove after
the date in question; we splice them back when the trailers are
returned (for some reason!).  I've found them convenient for carrying
small amounts of lens cleaner, alcohol, lens tissue, etc.  

A friend of mine finds them useful for discreet transport and disposal
of certain recreational pharmaceuticals.  :-)


Mark
From: sjm1@eng.cam.ac.uk (Stephen Mounsey)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Cropping slides
Date: 8 Oct 92 10:29:53 GMT
Organization: cam.eng

bjs@RUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Barry Sherman) writes:

>Stephen Page writes:

>>Can anyone suggest a good way to crop slides for projection?
>>
>>I've seen masks in shops, but these look rather limited. The local photo
>>shop suggests using masking tape, which sounds rather unpleasant!

>One standard method is to use silvered mylar tape.  This comes in various widths, starting
>at, I believe, 1/8 inch.  I'm not comfortable with putting the tape directly on the
>transparency so I re-mount the slides into glass mounts and then put the tape on the
>glass.


Most people doing it on the cheap use aluminium foil, cut with a very sharp
knife. Not the easiest task in the world though.

There is a company called "Maskits" who make "quilted" foil transparency
masks which are reputedly easy to cut and also come in various precut shapes.

They're based somewhere in Wales. I don't have the address handy, but I
could look it up. Cost for a starter pack is \pounds 4.95.

                        -Stephen
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: epperly@valeron.che.wisc.edu (Tom Epperly)
Subject: Looking for Photography Trip recommendations
Organization: University of Wisconsin-Madison, Chemical Engineering
Distribution: na
Date: 8 Oct 92 11:43:12

My father and I would like to go on a photography trip sometime next
year, and I am looking for some recommendations and information on
trips.  We would like a trip to an exotic place(like a national park)
guided by a knowledgeable photographer who can give us pointers.  We
are probably looking for a place in North America like Yosemite or
Four Corners National Park.  We are both amateurs with decent
equipment; however, we don't have any fast telephoto lenses which
probably rules out wildlife photography.

Please send your recommendations and information on how to contact the
people who run the trip.

				Tom Epperly
--
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Tom Epperly	University of Wisconsin-Madison		Chemical Engineering
(608) 262-8264	epperly@osnome.che.wisc.edu		Graduate Student
Member of the League for Programming Freedom(fighting software monopolies)
	For more info contact me or league@prep.ai.mit.edu
If you feel you must flame, please send email rather than posting.
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From: parsons1@applelink.apple.COM (Don Parsons)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Nikkor AF 2.0mm vs. 24mm
Date: 15 Oct 92 19:39:14 GMT
Organization: Apple Computer, Inc.

I'm trying to decide which to get; the AF 20mm 2.8, or the AF 24mm 2.8.
Does anyone have any information that might help make my choice easier?

Thanks in advance.

Don Parsons
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: ruben@tasman.cc.utas.edu.au (Ruben David)
Subject: Canon FD 35-105 
Organization: University of Tasmania, Australia.
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 12:39:04 GMT

I have been looking for a Canon 35-105 len for my Canon A1
for the last 12 months with little luck.
Could someone help me please !
If I cant get it in Australia, I will be going to Malaysia/
Singapore soon, any guide to price would also be much appreciated
Thanks.

--
___________________________________________________________________
Clinical Chemistry,		Email: ruben.david@surg.utas.edu.au
Royal Hobart Hospital,		Tel:   +61 02 388745
Hobart 7000			Tel:   +61 02 313145
From: janowsky@einstein.rutgers.edu (Steven Janowsky)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Bullets through balloons
Date: 8 Oct 92 20:07:56 GMT
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

A rough calculation shows that a typical (supersonic) bullet moves at
about 1mm/microsec.  Thus your thyristor flash at 1/50,000 second just
isn't going to do it.

You need really, really, really short times.  You can't get it with a
xenon flash tube.  Air-gap flashes can give much shorter times.

And you do want to use a supersonic bullet; then you can trigger of the
shock wave.

SJ
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jacobson@cello.hpl.hp.com (David Jacobson)
Subject: Hyperfocal distance definition
Summary: What's the exact definition
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 04:20:12 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories
Keywords: optics, theory, hyperfocal

As you know, I have posted formulas for depth of field and hyperfocal
distance numerous times.  For some time, I just used commonly accepted
approximations, then my own somewhat tighter approximations.  But
recently I got interested in the exact formula, just for the fun of
it.  And I was thinking about writing up a short entry for the FAQ
file.

The problem is I don't really know what we mean by hyperfocal
distance.  

One commonly used defintion is the closest point that is in focus when
the lens is set for infinity.  With this defintion the hyperfocal
distance is F^2/(f c).

F is focal length, f is f-stop, and c is acceptable
circle of confusion.  

But the way people often use hyperfocal distance is the place to set
the lens so that all the way from infinity to some closer point will
be in focus.  With this definition the hyperfocal distance is 
F^2/(f c) + F.

The fact that these numbers are so close (just one focal length
different) undoubted is the reason the two defintions have been used
somewhat interchangeably.  So the question is which one is right?

Both strongly held opinion and textbook/handbook precident are
encouraged.  

  -- David Jacobson
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au (Paul Repacholi)
Subject: Re: Ektar 
Followup-To: rec.photo
Organization: Curtin University of Technology
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 20:23:12 GMT

While on the subject of Ektar. I just got back some proofs of a fire
scene shot with Ektar 25 at night. IFF you get the recip failure correction
right, ( sorry, I didn't keep notes at the fire :-} ) the colours are Very
good indeed, by the looks of it. Dim memory says +2 stops, 25 sec instead of
6, but don't bet on it. Must try to take more notice next time.

Generaly, as you end up on a tripod for all the avial light stuff anyway, I
am thinking of using it instead of NHG for night time fires. The draw back
is when you use flash. The 400 rating of NHG gives great area coverage with
a 430ez. I'd hate to also have to carry a flash that could do the same with
a 25 ISO film...

~Paul

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: feldman@hal9k.cxo.dec.com (james feldman)
Subject: Re: Press Camera Questions...........................
Reply-To: feldman@hal9k.cxo.dec.com (james feldman)
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 22:45:52 GMT

In article <1992Oct7.175944.835@craycos.com>, sog@craycos.com (Steve Gombosi) writes:
|>Not in the case of this 1/1000 sec. leaf shutter. There are two wires feeding
|>into the shutter mechanism to actuate it. It also has a mechanical release
|>on the shutter itself, but there's no connection from the lensboard to it.
|>The mechanical release *does* work, though. The cocking mechanism is kind of
|>interesting, too - there isn't a lever, instead there's a lens barrel extending
|>forward from the lens. You cock the shutter by twisting it ~45 degrees.
|>Never seen anything quite like it.
I'l be damned, neither have I.  I'd love to know more about it if you can point
me to any info.
|> 
|>
|>Nope. The only purpose for the drop bed on this guy is to get it out of the
|>picture when you're shooting with a wide-angle. Absolutely no tilts. It does
|>have shifts, though. 
So when you drop the bed,(i'm assuming the bed pivots where it meets the body)
does the front lens standard then point away from the body, (staying
perpendicular to the bed)?

jimf
From: falk@peregrine.Sun.COM (Ed Falk)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Multiple film exchange on a 24x36 camera
Date: 17 Oct 1992 04:25:00 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Mt. View, Ca.
NNTP-Posting-Host: peregrine

In article <1992Oct16.092655.21409@sequent.com> blue@sequent.com (Gil Delavous) writes:
>I was wondering how to change the film on a 24x36 camera to take
>a picture which requires another sensibility, then put back the
>film. I don't understand why this feature is not implemented on
>24x36 cameras so far.

I assume you mean 35mm when you say "24x36".  Personally, I find
that owning two or three bodies isn't so bad, but then I own cheap
cameras.

Some 35mm cameras have been built with interchangable backs, but they're
not common (presumably they weren't very popular.)

What you do is this: note how many exposures you took, then rewind
the film most of the way (leave the leader sticking out.)  Then take
it out of the camera.  When you want to put it back, load it exactly
the way you did before, leave the lens cap on and fire the number of
exposures you noted before.  Then fire a couple extra exposures to
be on the safe side.

>BTW, does anybody know how to change the film? Can I rewind the film,
>load another one, shoot, then put back the old film, put the lens hood
>and shoot until I reach the next picture? I have a Nikon N8008 body.

I don't know if the new modern self-rewinding cameras will let you leave
the leader sticking out, but if not, there are tools that allow you to
fish it back out of the can.

		-ed falk, sun microsystems
		 sun!falk, falk@sun.com
To be loyal to rags, to shout for rags, to worship rags, to die for rags 
-- that is a loyalty of unreason, it is pure animal (Mark Twain).
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: chorley@vms.ocom.okstate.edu
Subject: Re: Any info on a "Spirotone 18mm/F3.2" ?
Organization: OSU College of Osteopathic Medicine
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 03:10:30 GMT

In article <1992Oct6.195944.3622@makesys.com>, sheldon@makesys.com (Sheldon) writes:
> I'm looking for wide-angle lenses for Pentax K mount, and I ran across a
> "Spirotone" 18mm lens. I've never heard of this brand; does anyone out there
> know anything about them? Are they any good?
> The lens looked to be in good shape, but it looked kind of old.
> 
> Thanx in advance for any information you have.
> 
> -sheldon white-

	One of the major drawbacks of obtaining a Spiratone 18mm wide angle 
lens is that the company, which was only ever a large retail & mail order 
business, went out of business approx. 2 yrs ago (sic transit gloria mundi)
so any such lens will probably be quite old. You will find the consensus of 
opinion telling you to buy the Samyang 18-28mm zoom, and why not! you'll 
probably have a lot of fun with it as long as you don't expect too much 
from it.

	Regards from Dr. Strabismus
From: qinyi@uk.ac.man.cs (Yi Qin (BCW PhD))
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: U.K. (over)Pricing !
Date: 7 Oct 92 17:21:33 GMT
Organization: University of Manchester, UK
In-reply-to: ag544@yfn.ysu.edu's message of 7 Oct 92 12:12:01 GMT


UK is probably the most expensive place to buy photo gears. You can
pay about half of the UK prices in Hong Kong, at least it's a lot 
cheaper in the States. 

If you bought the camera during a short visit, you should claim the
refund of VAT (consisting 17.5% of the price you paid) when you leave
the last stop in UK. You are entitled to get your VAT refund if you
just stay in UK for less than 6 months. People who wish to claim the
VAT refund  should state your intension and fill in a form at the
shop where you do the purchase. And you take this form to the VAT-
refund desk in the international airport from where you are to exit
the country. The customs officer will process your documents and you
can receive the refund in a few weeks time.

I was told some time ago it was also expensive to buy electronic
and photo equipments in Japan. Is this true?

Yi Qin
qinyi@cs.man.ac.uk
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jbm@hal.trl.OZ.AU (Jacques Guy)
Subject: Re: Why is Canon called Canon
Organization: Telecom Research Labs, Melbourne, Australia
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 23:51:29 GMT

Wasn't it after Kan-on, the Goddess of mercy? Kwan-yin in Chinese, I think.
From: barnick@mesa.Kodak.COM (William M Barnick x73638)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Need Info on Yashicamat 124G
Date: 12 Oct 92 20:25:22 GMT
Organization: Eastman Kodak Co., Rochester, NY

>In article <1b4bj7INN161@agate.berkeley.edu> mprats@ocf.berkeley.edu (Mario Prats) writes:
>I am considering buying a used Yashicamat 124G. Does anybody own one?
>How good is it?  I also saw an advertised Yaschicamat C, what is the
>difference between these two? 
>
I was just a a used camera show in the Rochester area.  I saw several of these
cameras.  The price ranged from $185-$220.  All of the ones that I saw were
Yashicamat 124G.  I was wondering how accurate the metering was ???
Also, is this a reasonable used-camera price ???

See Ya ...
WMB


--
***  William M Barnick ** Eastman Kodak ** barnick@Kodak.COM ******************
***  Electronic Imaging Platform Center * Color Scanning Systems Lab          *
***  B/65-2 D/733 mc01804   Rochester NY   14650-1804                         *
**************************** (716) 477-3638 ***********************************
From: brooks@sunburn10.dab.ge.com (Stephen Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Konica T4 repair?
Date: 13 Oct 92 17:33:49 GMT
Organization: verry little


  I'm looking for pointers for where I might find replacement parts for an old
Konica T4 35mm SLR.  It's got a broken film advance, and the camera repair guy
said Konica quit making parts for it about 3 years ago (it was purchased new
in 1978).  Otherwise it works fine.  Any ideas?  Thanks.
--
%% Stephen (Steve) M. Brooks     %% brooks@sunny.dab.ge.com           %%
%% GE Aerospace, SCSD            %% brooks@ge-dab.ge.com              %%
%% P.O. Box 2825, Rm. 1370       %% ...!uunet!sunny.dab.ge.com!brooks %%
%% Daytona Beach, FL  32120-2825 %% ...!uunet!ge-dab.ge.com!brooks    %%
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: rkrouse@netcom.com (Robert K. Rouse)
Subject: Portrait & Figure Group Meeting
Keywords: Figure, portrait
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Distribution: ca
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 13:02:21 GMT



      Western Portrait and Figure Group
      Meeting at Edible Complex in Oakland

   This WPFG Group meeting is at the Edible Complex, a cafe one block south of the Rockridge BART station at 5600 College Avene in Oakland on Sunday, October 18.  The meeting will be from 6:00 p.m. to 8:00 p.m. on a Sunday in order to avoid traffic.  We will be getting together in their small upstairs room.  The stairs are just past the food order counter.  Their chocolate mousse is excellent.

    Several members have indicated that they will be bringing prints from recent Airplane Museum Group Shoot to this meeting.  A table top slide viewer will be available for showing your slides from recent shoots.  Also on display will be some prints of the Redwood grove on the October 25 WPFG Figure Group Shoot.

	For WPFG info:

		WPFG
		P.O. Box 145
		Concord, CA 94522

		Patrick Gagne (510) 671-7762 evenings
		Paul Hirsohn   (510) 548-6744 Sat.


-- 
==========================================================================
            Robert K. Rouse		rkrouse@netcom.com
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