HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: dilmore@eastrg2.cray.com (Robert James Dilmore)
Subject: Re: Help!Static Charge Shock--Civic
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 18 Dec 92 13:37:54 CST

In article <1gt4olINNpnh@armory.centerline.com>, chapman@centerline.com (Scott Chapman, (Scott Chapman x233)) writes:
|> I think this is caused by a static build up generated by your clothing
|> rubbing against those velour seats. I have not had this problem since I got
|> my new Honda with leather seats. I know of no fixes... Sorry
|> 
|> ---
|>                                   |
|>                     Scott Chapman | chapman@centerline.com
|>               CenterLine Software | (617) 498-3230
|>                    10 Fawcett St. | (617) 868-6655 (FAX)
|>               Cambridge, MA 02138 | (Centerline was formerly Saber Software)
|>                                   |
|> 
|> 
   This should definatly be a FAQ. As the weather gets drier and everybody 
starts wearing wool and poly instead of cotton shorts, static electricity
forms as a result of getting in and out of the car. Some newer cars(Mazda?)
acually have a small pad with a 20Mohm resistor integral to the door that 
you touch prior to exiting the car. What works for me is to grab the door 
frame before I get out of the car. As a second level of defense I spray my
seats with STATICIDE. I would imagine that any kind of anti-static spray
such as STATIC-GARD would work as well. Test a small area first to make sure
it doesn't stain the seats. SCOTCHGARD will increase the "static effect" due
to the dielectric properties it posseses, kinda like the same reason you 
don't wax computer room floors.

   Other things you could try is wearing garments with stainless steel fibers,
or garments with carbon fibers woven in. You could also wear static conductive 
shoes, and let's not forget the wrist strap:).

Robert Dilmore
Sr. Field Engineer
Cray Research Inc.
From: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: tranny problems
Date: 15 Dec 92 17:46:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Ye Olde Bailey BBS - Houston, TX - 713-520-1569
Reply-To: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 

GE>>>Path: nuchat!menudo.uh.edu!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!qt.cs.u
  >>>edu!yale.edu!jvnc.net!netnews.upenn.edu!mech.seas.upenn.edu!george
  >>>From: george@mech.seas.upenn.edu
  >>>Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
  >>>Subject: Re: tranny problems
  >>>Date: 12 Dec 92 20:24:34 GMT


GE>>>:   >>>shift properly (it is in third by 20 mph) and it has no passing gea


GE>>>:Check the detent/kickdown cable. Only cable from trans to the throttle

GE>>>gm stopped using cables in ~1974 ( anyone know why?, i like'd 'em )
  >>>This car will have a vacuum operated kick down, but i dont see
  >>>why a problem with that would cause early upshifting.
  >>>--
  >>>  /   george jefferson
  >>>\/ *  george@mech.seas.upenn.edu
WRONG!
        GM continues to use kickdown cables to this day!
                                                        Don


 * SLMR 2.1a * I put spot remover on my dog....Spots gone!
                                                                                                                 
----
Ye Olde Bailey BBS
Houston,Texas
Node 1: 1 713 520 1569
yob.sccsi.com
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:16950 rec.autos:30208 misc.consumers:20987
From: wb8foz@skybridge.SCL.CWRU.Edu (David Lesher)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos,misc.consumers
Subject: Re: The case of the exploding distributor cap.  Need help.
Date: 20 Dec 1992 04:40:02 GMT
Organization: NRK Clinic for habitual NetNews abusers - Beltway Annex
Reply-To: wb8foz@skybridge.scl.cwru.edu (David Lesher)
NNTP-Posting-Host: skybridge.scl.cwru.edu

Others said:

# 2. What caused the rotor to explode and set the cap on fire.

A likely cause is a bad vaccum advance diaphram, allowing vapor
under the cap. Of course, if you now have a new distributor,
then THAT problem is gone....

(This assumes your car has vaccum advance - most do, but your
mileage may vary...)

--
A host is a host from coast to coast..wb8foz@skybridge.scl.cwru.edu
& no one will talk to a host that's close..........................
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433
From: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: 79 Fairmont s/w - can bus
Date: 15 Dec 92 17:46:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Ye Olde Bailey BBS - Houston, TX - 713-520-1569
Reply-To: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 


   >>>Subject: 79 Fairmont s/w - can bushings/ball joints be replaced?
   >>>Date: 10 Dec 92 19:51:23 GMT

BHM>>>I have a 79 Fairmont wagon with >153,000 miles on it (miraculous, huh? :-
   >>>The ball joints and most of the suspension bushings have had it.  Both th
   >>>local Ford extortionist, er, dealer :-) and the Chilton and Haines fix-it
   >>>books say that the ball joints and bushings cannot be replaced; the entir
   >>>lower arm assembly must be replaced.  However, the chaps down at Pep Boys
   >>>tell me that the bushings and ball joints *can* be replaced, and that the
   >>>stock said items.  What's the real scoop here?  Can they be replaced or n
   >>>If so, what out-of-the-ordinary tools will I need?  (I'd imagine a press
   >>>some kind, and maybe a slide hammer to get the old ones out of the arms.)

BHM>>>On a related issue, is it a better idea to rebuild or replace the rear br
   >>>cylinders?  Just curious on this one.

BHM>>>Bruce H. McIntosh    brucem@neufhou.mail.ufl.edu            Jesus has ris

Balljoints are available either way...I prefer complete arms.(a lot
easier to install). The wheel cylinders depend on just how bad the
inside is. You get to 'em just pop em apart and examine for serious pits
rust etc. Minor stuff can be honed out. Anything more and I'd spring for
the $10-$15 per NEW cylinder.
..
One other thing on the arms...if you replace the bushing and balljoints
yourself you run the risk of bending the arm...
                                                Later,
                                                        Don


 * SLMR 2.1a * I put spot remover on my dog....Spots gone!
                    
----
Ye Olde Bailey BBS
Houston,Texas
Node 1: 1 713 520 1569
yob.sccsi.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ssave@ole.cdac.com (The Devil Reincarnate)
Subject: Studded tires.
Organization: CDAC, WA
Distribution: pnw
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 02:13:29 GMT


  I need four 195 60 SR14 studded tires.  If you need to get
rid of ones in your garage/attic, please email or call me.  
Preferably in the Seattle area. The numbers on the tires are
important, because of ABS.

-Shailendra
ssave@ole.cdac.com
(206)-649-7675
From: shadow@pro-haven.cts.com (Blaine Hufnagle)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Axle Lengths?
Date: 12 Dec 1992 03:37:49 -0600
Organization: ProLine [pro-haven] - Pariahs' Haven BBS, 409/846-3177, 9600-300
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu

I've got an axle out of a late '70's vintage Camaro.  Will it fit width-
(length?) wise into my '79 truck?  Are the lengths the same on these axles,
or is the camaro axle shorter?  if so, by how much?

-blaine

          a.k.a. The Midnight Shadow    |  1979 Chevy Urban Assault Vehicle
Texas Aggie Bus Driver and proud of it! |  1982 Thomas Transit Liner bus
Another Bodybuilder from HELL!!         |  1982 Yamaha Vision   DoD #7192
        "Mine is not to wonder why, Mine is but to look and cry....."
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Mazda rotary in a Europa
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 15 Dec 92 13:21:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> Was it Colin Chapman who said "If a part doesn't break once during a
-> racing season it is overdesigned"?

 DNFs don't win races.
                                                                                   
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:16991 rec.autos:30228 misc.consumers:21007
From: haynes@cats.ucsc.edu (Jim Haynes)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos,misc.consumers
Subject: Re: The case of the exploding distributor cap.  Need help.
Date: 21 Dec 92 04:08:58 GMT
Organization: University of California; Santa Cruz
NNTP-Posting-Host: hobbes.ucsc.edu


Ah, that takes me back to an old war story about a sixty-something Corvair.
I set out on a long trip and after a day or so the battery wasn't charging
anymore.  Well that was easy, the generator brushes were worn out, so
I picked up new brushes at Western Auto and was on my way again.  A few
hundred miles later I don't remember what went wrong but I remember taking
off the distributor cap and finding a lot of powdered metal inside.
Maybe that was when I replaced the distributor, or maybe it was just
the cap that I replaced at that point.  Anyway another long way down the
road and the distributor exploded - not with fire, but with the shaft
coming out through the top.  Well that involved getting towed off
the freeway, and catching a ride into the nearest town with the
tow truck owner, and getting a new distributor from a dealer and
catching a bus back to where my car was and installing the new distributor,
etc.  Drove a couple hundred more miles and the same thing happened
again.  By this time I was close enough to home that I took the bus
the rest of the way home, and called up a friend in the mechanic
business and told him where the car was and to take care of it.
So he towed it to where we lived and decided it was a worn out camshaft
that was causing distributors to wear out their bearings and let
the shaft come up through the cap.  There were more adventures with
that car, but not for this posting...
-- 
haynes@cats.ucsc.edu
haynes@cats.bitnet

"Ya can talk all ya wanna, but it's dif'rent than it was!"
"No it aint!  But ya gotta know the territory!"
        Meredith Willson: "The Music Man"
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: vetter@mtu.edu (STEVEN J. VETTER)
Subject: Re: brakes - help !!
Organization: Michigan Technological University
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 14:08:14 GMT

hoffman@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Mark Hoffman) writes:
>applied unevenly (grabs or pulsates).  Front disk, rear drum.  Front
>brake rotors checked and OK.  On going problem for 1 year, does not
>seem to be getting worse.  Rebuild calipers?  Change brake lines?  Master
>Cylinder problem?


  Who checked your rotors?  The only way to tell if the rotors are not 
  warped is with a micrometer.  If someone did check them, take it somewhere
  else for a second opinion just to be sure.

  Steve

  vetter@mtu.edu

-- 
>
>
>
  Steve Vetter      __________________________________________________
From: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Spark Plug Question...
Date: 18 Dec 92 19:01:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Ye Olde Bailey BBS - Houston, TX - 713-520-1569
Reply-To: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 

  >>>Subject:  Spark Plug Question... >>>Date: 15 Dec 92 14:30:02 MDT

SL>>>What is the difference between an R-44XLS6 spark plug and an R-44XLS plug?

SL>>>I was told I could get a 2% increase in gas milage if I used R-44XLS plugs
  >>>instead of R-44XLS6 plugs.

SL>>>What is the difference?

SL>>>--
  >>>Faith Gibson
Hi,
        Difference is the gap of the electrodes. And you were told
        wrong. The xls-6m has a wider gap than the xls. A wider gap
        means a hotter/ more intense spark and thus more complete
        combustion, which translates to better milage.
                                                        Don

 * SLMR 2.1a * I put spot remover on my dog....Spots gone!
                                                                   
----
Ye Olde Bailey BBS
Houston,Texas
Node 1: 1 713 520 1569
yob.sccsi.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: daniels_d@apollo.HP.COM ()
Subject: The Immobilser
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 12:59:14 GMT
Organization: Mine

 Has anyone heard of a product called The Immobilser ?
It's brand new in the US, and over a million have sold 
in Europe over the last 5 years. It's the latest in 
security devices for your car. It consists of an 8 wire
system that must be installed by a licensed mechanic.

Looking for repair shops or dealerships that would be 
interested in selling this product. If you would like
more info please email me.

Regards,
Dave

-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dave Daniels                           | 
daniels_d@apollo.hp.com                | "Life is a highway, I wan't  
                                       |  to ride it all night long...."
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: Torque curve question...
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 21:41:56 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 Back when I bothered to read Car and Driver they used to print some curves.
Some of the hot rod mags do it for hot-rod-type engines. Did the idea of 
going to the library occur to you while waiting for an answer?
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
From: scott@psy.uwa.oz.au (Scott Fisher)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Jaguar XJ-12 is a Dog?
Date: 16 Dec 1992 02:25:22 GMT
Organization: The University of Western Australia
NNTP-Posting-Host: wapsy.psy.uwa.oz.au

Karl Nordstrom <KXN2@psuvm.psu.edu> writes:

>wb8foz@skybridge.SCL.CWRU.Edu (David Lesher) says:
>>
>>The Wall Street Journal had an article about memorable dogs.
>>As I recall ... the XJ-12.

>A dog?  That engine produces more hp and torque than a '84-'9? Corvette!

When it's actually running :-)  

Have you ever tried to service one?  I think the XJ-12 is a great car,
and would own one if I could afford to keep it on the road...I'll just
wimp out and stay with my 4.2 XJ6...which is "self flagellation" enough :-)

_______________________________________________________________________________
Scott Fisher [scott@psy.uwa.oz.au]  PH: Aus [61] Perth (09) Local (380 3272).                
                                                             _--_|\       N
Department of Psychology                                    /      \    W + E
University of Western Australia.      Perth [32S, 116E]-->  *_.--._/      S
Nedlands, 6009.  PERTH, W.A.                                      v       

Joy is a Jaguar XJ6 with a flat battery, a blown oil seal and an unsympathetic 
wife, 9km outside of a small remote town, 3:15am on a cold wet winters morning.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: exuptr@exu.ericsson.se (Patrick Taylor)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: HORRIBLE STALLS (!) in Pontiac Sunbird!
Date: 11 Dec 92 23:14:51 GMT
Organization: Ericsson Network Systems, Inc.
X-Disclaimer: This article was posted by a user at Ericsson.
              Any opinions expressed are strictly those of the
              user and not necessarily those of Ericsson.

In article <1992Dec10.223952.61925@cc.usu.edu> slhmz@cc.usu.edu writes:
>I am having serious difficulties with my car.
>It's a '87 Pontiac Sunbird 2.0L FI OHC SE 'vert.
>The car only has 30,000 miles on it.

>        And then after you get going in first gear, you have to
>        put the clutch in, rev up the engine high, put it into second,
>        and let the clutch out again really slowly.  The car will
>        almost stall, but will get back up to normal.

>        Now, if I pull over and stop, put it in neutral and let it
>        idle, it sound fine.  Just the oil pressure guage is a little
>        lower than normal.  But, if I goose on the gas, the car will
>        stall and you cannot re-start the car without starting fluid.
>	
>        Also, the above mentioned effect happens maybe 1/3 of the time.
>        The other 2/3 of the time the car runs great, but doesn't have
>        as much power as it used to.

>        The alternator, battery, and fuel-filter, and spark-plugs
>        all check out OK.

>        I think it is the fuel pump or maybe a clogged fuel line.
>        Or is it my Injector?  Or maybe solinoid in injection system?

>        HELP ME!

>        What is wrong?  I can't find out!


>--
>Faith Gibson

Float level too high?

Vacuum leak?

 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
                    !!! H A P P Y   H O L I D A Y S !!!

  - Patrick Taylor, Ericsson Network Systems
    exuptr@exu.ericsson.se                    "Don't let the .se fool you"
    exuptr@ZGNews.Lonestar.Org  <SLOW!>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dje@mail.bellcore.com (Don Eilenberger)
Subject: WAS: Re: Jaguar XJ-12 is a Dog?, Now BASHING
Reply-To: dje@mail.bellcore.com (Don Eilenberger)
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 92 15:04:27 GMT

Since we're Jag bashing a bit here.. here is my 2 cents
worth (let's see.. I've owned a MK-II, a MK-IV, and a
'65 4.2 XKE roadster.. so I guess I can afford a bit
of bashing..)..

I recently was at a friends garage (he specializes in service/
repair of large $$$ cars..) and he was changing the valve cover
gaskets on a recent model XJS.. this job was going to cost the
owner about $1,000US, which was a bargain.. the dealer wanted about
twice that. I took a look at the cam's while the covers (and about
80 pounds of other stuff) were out of the way, and to my amazement,
saw (maybe I shouldn't have been amazed.. after all this is an
English design).. that Jag HAD NOT changed the design of the cam
and cam/follower/adjusting shim from the old straight six engine..
AT ALL! The adjusting shims are still located UNDER the cam follower,
on top of the valve stem (where they wear much faster than if they
were on a surface with more than 1/4" diameter wear surface).. meaning
that to adjust the valves, you STILL HAVE TO REMOVE THE CAM'S to get
at the damn shims.. and then it's chancy if you'll ever get them
exactly right since you're taking off and putting back everything
that could possibly effect the clearance..

Having ONCE done this adjustment on my XKE.. I immediately understood
the wisdom of modern designs, where the shims sit between the follower
and the camshaft, can be removed without diassembling anything, and
have much larger bearing surfaces to work on.. meaning they probably
NEVER have to be replace (they didn't on my Toyota Turbo Supra.. at
100,000 miles, they were dead on to specs..).

I guess the lesson here is that English engineering is evolutionary,
and never revolutionary.. if the design was good enough for the old
straight six.. it's good enough for the V-12, and my golly mate, we've
got a lot of those shims around anyway, so why make a new design.

Don Eilenberger

DISCLAIMER: I love Jags.. I hate Jags.. I'm now Jagless, and am not
sure I care. I would love to have one as a pet.. as long as I don't
have to travel to anyplace serious with it, like work. Got a Jag
you don't want? Want to GIVE it to a good home (heated garage,
hard Simonize wax, finest of oils and fluids)? For FREE I might take
it (if it's within flatbed distance).
From: shadow@pro-haven.cts.com (Blaine Hufnagle)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: GM Truck Status?
Date: 12 Dec 1992 03:38:14 -0600
Organization: ProLine [pro-haven] - Pariahs' Haven BBS, 409/846-3177, 9600-300
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu

Have any of you been following the debate about '73-'87 GM trucks?

If so, what have have you heard?

If you haven't, here's the partial scoop:

Some Naderite-type safety group has, in the last six months, started a
hooplah about how GM's trucks from the model years in question are "The
Pinto's of the Nineties."  This has to do with the fact that GM designed the
fuel tank(s) to reside outboard of the frame rails under the sides of the
beds.  This has the effect of, when involved in a side crash, bursting the
fuel tank(s) and spraying fuel _everywhere._  

Supposedly, any fix by GM will wind up costing them billyuns and billyuns
(Thank you Mr. Sagan! ;)  of dollars to implement, seeing as how there are
millyuns and millyuns of these trucks out there, one of which belongs to me.


The thing I don't understand is this:  Why the hooplah now?  These trucks
have been out of production for five years now.  Why wasn't said "defect" (if
it indeed *IS* a defect) corrected a year or two after production started, in
'73?  Why has this consumer group waited almost 20 years to do something?

does this sound as ludicrous to you as it does to me?

-blaine


          a.k.a. The Midnight Shadow    |  1979 Chevy Urban Assault Vehicle
Texas Aggie Bus Driver and proud of it! |  1982 Thomas Transit Liner bus
Another Bodybuilder from HELL!!         |  1982 Yamaha Vision   DoD #7192
        "Mine is not to wonder why, Mine is but to look and cry....."
From: rmorrow@afit.af.mil (Robert K Morrow)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: '84 MB 190E Oil Pressure?
Date: 11 Dec 92 13:11:12 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Air Force Institute of Technology

In article <1992Dec10.125148.177053@lexmark.com> mollett@lexmark.com (Vic Mollett) writes:
>In article <17710@pitt.UUCP> sherman@michael.nmr.upmc.edu (Sherman Uitzetter) writes:
>>
>>   I have a newly acquired 1984 Mercedes 190E and a small
>>(I hope) question.  After the engine warms up and the
>>idle speed returns to normal the oil pressure drops when
>>idling.  The pressure increases again immediately when
>>the rpm gets to about 900.  I've never had a car with an
>
>As long as it does not go to zero, you are fine.  My 240D's oil pressure is
>about 1.7 bar at idle.  My owner's manual says that down to about 0.5 bar is

A bit more info:  I've owned three MBZ cars at different times,
including a 1984 190E, and all show less than max oil pressure
during idle.  You will usually see about half scale on the
gauge, depending on oil temp and viscosity.

Incidentally, my first MBZ was a 1968 250S, and I had the opposite
reaction to the oil pressure that you did - the part-scale reading at
idle seemed normal, but I was concerned about the needle hitting the
maximum pressure stop (sometimes violently) at above-idle RPM.  This,
of course, turned out to be normal as well.

					Bob Morrow
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 09:45:12 EST
From: Karl Nordstrom <KXN2@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Jaguar XJ-12 is a Dog?

harmons@.WV.TEK.COM (Harmon Sommer) says:
>
>>>The Wall Street Journal had an article about memorable dogs.
>>>As I recall ... the XJ-12.

>>A dog?  That engine produces more hp and torque than a '84-'9? Corvette!

>Given that those who vote with their tool kits, or wallets, have pulled
>more Jag engines and replaced them with chev, suggests that Jag V12
>powered Corvettes are a distinct rarity.

I'm not claiming that the Jaguar V12 is less expensive than a Chevy 350.
I'm questioning the Wall Street Journal's claim that the Jaguar XJ-12 is a dog.
From: slhmz@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject:  Spark Plug Question...
Date: 15 Dec 92 14:30:02 MDT
Organization: Utah State University

What is the difference between an R-44XLS6 spark plug and an R-44XLS plug?

I was told I could get a 2% increase in gas milage if I used R-44XLS plugs
instead of R-44XLS6 plugs.

What is the difference?

--
Faith Gibson
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech