HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jeffw@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com (jeff waldeck)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: United Way and SAR
Date: 2 Oct 92 18:37:10 GMT
Organization: Hewlett Packard - Boise, ID

/ hpdmd48:rec.climbing / hall@vice.ICO.TEK.COM (Hal F Lillywhite) /  1:10 pm  Sep 28, 1992 /
In article <kllKr*Pi0@stile.stonemarche.org> me@stile.stonemarche.org (Mark Eklof) writes:

complaints and withheld contributions.  Of course that doesn't
affect SAR since, at least as far as I know, no SAR agency is
included in UW.  UW will pass the contributions on to tax exempt
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
----------

Idaho Mountain Search & Rescue, Boise, Idaho is a United Way affiliate.


We receive appx. 50% of our budget from direct allocations and directed
donations.

Of course, there is a lot of talk about how we only help a small % of
the overall population, but so far our board considers us to be filling
a "critical need" in Idaho.

p.s.- since becoming an affiliate agency, our directed donations have
      gone from a couple hundred dollars a year to over $8000! 
      obviously, alot of people would rather direct money to our group
      than let UW do the directing (the directed funds are over and above
      what UW gives us.

Regards,

Jeffery Waldeck
jeffw@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com
From: jeremy@castle.ed.ac.uk (JHenderson)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: Food to take on climbs/ Job opening
Date: 5 Oct 92 11:17:00 GMT
Organization: Edinburgh University

I read somewhere the idea of taking a packet of dog food - the "moist"
kind. It might save your life, but you sure as hell won't eat unless it's
an emergency!!

-- 
===Jeremy Henderson===jeremy@castle.ed.ac.uk=          Vommen
                                             Bladmagen
                                   Loepmagen
                        Naetmagen
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: morrison@cup.hp.com (Bobbie_Morrison)
Subject: Re: how easy is resoling shoes?
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 23:53:07 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

Jim Klavetter (jjk@astro.umd.edu) wrote:
: I need to resole my scarpas.  How easy is it to do if I go to REI and
: get the kit?  If I can follow directions, will Ibe able to do as good
: a job as a "professional?"  Do I need any special tools?  Any hints if
: you think I can do it?

I resoled my Teva's with 5.10 Dots.  I figure that resoling Teva's is a 
far cry easier than climbing shoes (but that may depend on the shoes.)

It wasn't really that hard to do, but I think its more worth while to
have the professionals do it (Wilson's does such a good job that its hard
to consider doing it myself.)  

Part of what I buy from having Wilson's do it is their experience and
their grinding tools.  (I think I could do the shoes, but it might take
me a couple of tries to get it right, and I don't want to sacrifice my 
shoes to that.)

I would definitely recommend getting the articles on resoling from the mags.
They ran last year I think.

Specific notes on my Teva resole job:

-While stripping the old soles off I had to be careful not to burn the 
underlying structure of the shoe (that was now exposed.)  I was using my
kitchen gas stove.

-I also had to be very careful not to tear the midsole (or arch support).
I've also heard this is true about the rands of climbing shoes -- be careful
not to tear it.

-I had a bit of trouble getting the glue to stick really well when I put
the knew soles on.  They weren't sticking so well around the edges.  (My
boyfriend later fixed them by re-gluing them and parking the car on them.
Seriously, you need some good pressure.)  I had hammered them, but it didn't
really make it stick.

-It was sort of a hassle grinding the excess off, but I found out later that
I was using the wrong attachement to my power drill.  ;-) With the correct
attachement it went much faster.


Good luck!  ;-)

--Bobbie Morrison
  Hewlett-Packard
  Cupertino, CA
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: bsbarron@eos.ncsu.edu (BRADFORD SCOTT BARRON)
Subject: Re: Food to take on climbs/ Job opening
Originator: bsbarron@c00506-119rd.eos.ncsu.edu
Reply-To: bsbarron@eos.ncsu.edu (BRADFORD SCOTT BARRON)
Organization: North Carolina State University, Project Eos
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 21:20:35 GMT


(Michael Brodesky) writes:
 
|> 	I was wondering what people take on climbs to eat. I have been
|> taking fruit snacks, powerbars, granola type bars, fruit, and pop tarts.
|> 

You are forgetting the most important substance: liquid.  For those who dislike
drinking anything resembling antifreeze and still want to replentish their
electrolytes, a 50% fruit juice mixture will do just as well as gatorade or any
of those other toxic drinks.  

As far as food, you want high energy (glucose and fat) foods for short, grunting
sport climbs.  For longer climbs involving endurance, cut down on fats and 
eat high carbohydrate foods.  By the way, granola is available in 
normal (i.e. high fat) and fat-free varieties.  It thus makes a good snack
and tastes 10,000 X better than Powerbars.
Xref: sparky rec.climbing:3691 rec.backcountry:7873
From: barryc@mpd.tandem.com (Barry Chalcroft)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing,rec.backcountry
Subject: Re: United Way and SAR
Date: 30 Sep 92 17:14:04 GMT
Reply-To: barryc@malamute.UUCP (Barry Chalcroft)
Followup-To: rec.climbing
Distribution: usa
Organization: /etc/organization


I have never donated to the United Way, primarily because I`d rather donate
directly. Now that I am with Tandem I have another option, the "Earth Share"
payroll donation plan. The "Earth Share" plan allows me to support 40 
different enviromental groups such as the Sierra Club, WWF, EDF, Friends of
the Earth, National Audibon Society, NRDC, and the Wildernes Society. 
This plan allows me to support a much larger group of organizations that
I could afford to join. It also is a more acceptable to me than the United 
Way. Its hard for me to support any group who has the history of corruption
that the UW has. I will continue to donate to the Red Cross, Scouts, etc.
directly, without the Administrative overhead that the UW incurs (high 
salaries).

I guess that I`m just lucky to work for a progressive company that doesn`t
pressure employees (like others I`ve worked for) to donate to the UW and
also gives me a much more acceptable alternative - Earth Share.

-- 
Barry D. Chalcroft / N5NWI       Let`s start thinking about tomorrow...
EMAIL: barryc@mpd.tandem.com              *****************************  
       76500.2177@compuserve.com         ****   Clinton/Gore `92  ****
       barryc@cactus.org	        *****************************					       
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: deaton@saturn.sdsu.edu (Ed Deaton)
Subject: Island Peak
Summary: Need information of Island Peak 
Keywords: Island Peak, Nepal
Organization: San Diego State University, College of Sciences
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 20:56:28 GMT

I am going to Nepal in early March to do the Everest BAse Camp trek
(which I did last year) then climb Island Peak.  I would like go correspond
with someone who has climbed Island Peak.  What is the technical difficulty,
what about renting equipmeant in Kathmandu or Namche Bazar?  What about
quide or permits?

Ed Deaton
San Diego State University
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: uchpcjv@Msu.oscs.montana.edu
Subject: Re: New Mexico climbing info wanted
Reply-To: uchpcjv@Msu.oscs.montana.edu
Organization: Montana State University
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 19:21:11 GMT

In article <1992Oct5.221354.13762@cs.cornell.edu>, pearson@cs.cornell.edu (David S. Pearson) writes:
>I'm going to be in New Mexico, in and around Santa Fe, for about a week.
>
>Does anyone out there have any favorite climbing spots in that area?
>Or classic routes?
>

White Rock (near Los Alamos) is fantastic -- both sport climbing and cracks.
It's probably only 45 mins. from S.Fe (including the approach at the area
called The Overlook...at least I think that's how I remember it).

>Thanks!
>David Pearson
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: cptully@med.unc.edu (Christopher P. Tully,Pathology,62699)
Subject: Re: harnesses
Reply-To: cptully@med.unc.edu
Organization: UNC-CH School of Medicine
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 15:34:49 GMT

In article 28513@Rapnet.Sanders.Lockheed.Com, mabry@julio.sanders.lockheed.com (Mark Mabry) writes:
>I just noticed an old Climbing Magazine article about harnesses that
>said that a harness should be retired after 2 years of "weekend" use.
>I have never heard of this.  My harness is 4 years old and seems to be
>in great shape.  Does anyone go by this standard?  
>
>-- 
>Mark Mabry                                  Lockheed Sanders, Inc.
>Digital Design Center of Technology         95 Canal St.
>mabry@rapnet.sanders.lockheed.com           Nashua, NH 03060
>                                            (603)885-9196

I can't imagine reiting a harness after two years (or any fixed time period for that matter).  I would just keep a careful eye on it - you inspect your rope and bieners on a regular basis don't you?  Onspect your harness at the same time.

Things I would consider in retiring a harness:
-is it badly worn?
-is the stitching in tact (or can it be repaired)?
-are there any badly abraded areas?
-is the outside of the webbing a different color from the inside (i.e.
in the leg loops)?  this may indicate solarization -- think carefully
befor using.  of course, some color change is going to happen no matter
what, but if the insides of your leg loops are black and the outsides
are white, you most likely have a problem.
-do you trust it?

A good (safe) way to test your harness:
In a gym, sling a rope, set up a mat (a good thick soft one)
underneath, and then either "take a fall" in the harness (i.e. jump
down so the rope should catch you a few feet above the mat) or use the
harness to suspend a weight about the same as you and drop this.  Of
course, either of these just tells you whether the harness broke this
time.

Another thing to consider is whether or not you lead climb.  I don't
lead (yet) so any falls that I take are likely to be relatively "soft",
but if you lead climb you may want a newer harness (especially if you
fall a lot - lets hope this isn't the case :).

Anyway, those are my thoughts (PLEASE don't take them for gospel).
Chris

---
*********************************************************************
Chris(topher) P. Tully				<cptully@med.unc.edu>
Univ. of North Carolina - Chapel Hill		1122 Vic Charles Dr.
Department of Pathology				Raleigh, NC 27606
CB# 7525			work: (919) 966-2699
Chapel Hill, NC 27599		hone: (919) 851-8816
*********************************************************************
I get paid for my opinions, but that doesn't mean that UNC or anybody
                     else agrees with them.

Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: carhart@netcom.com (Raymond E. Carhart)
Subject: Re: BEST climbing shoes
Keywords: shoe
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1992 08:43:43 GMT

pevzner@ceg.uiuc.edu (Vadim Pevzner) writes:

>Hey you expert out there!
>Enlighten me. What is the
>climbing shoe market like these days?
>Start by sharing with us
>your bias on the subject of purpose:
>should the smeering or
>the edging be more emphasised in the shoe design?
>Top it off with what
>YOU think the best shoe on the market is and what
>YOU are willing to pay for it?

B
 
B  
D
C
   On the subject of smearing vs. edging, it all depends on what type of
  climbing you want to do.  If you your doing low angle smooth slabs a
 flexible friction shoe would be your best bet, but if your doing a
climb with lots of key micro edges a stiffer edging shoe would be your
choice.  Most modern sport climbs involve a lot of overhanging stuff
with big holds and pockets.  A more sensitive, flexible shoe is 
required to take advantage of small pockets and smearing movements.
I reccomend a shoe with a combination of both charecteristics.  I
have a pair of Scarpa Phantoms which have edged and smeared very
well for me.  They were on sale for $100, but you'll probably
have to pay retail which is $120 (still a good price).  A good edging
shoe is the Five Ten Razors and a good, sensitive smearing shoe is
the Five Ten UFO.  However, I think the most important consideration
in buying rock shoes is the fit.  Everyone has different shaped feet
so you should find a shoe that is shaped like yours.   For example,
I have super wide feet and Scarpa seems to make their shoes a little
wider than most other companies so it worked out great for me.
Good luck and climb on.

                          Fai

required to take advantage of small pockets and sm c
From: Gen.M.Kanai@dartmouth.edu (Gen M. Kanai)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: Catalogs?
Date: 27 Sep 92 02:03:24 GMT
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH
X-Posted-From: InterNews1.0a5@newshost.dartmouth.edu

In article <1992Sep25.082722.1@dranet.dra.com>
markw@dranet.dra.com writes:

> I used to get a catalog from a company called IME.  I think that stood for
> International Mountain Equipment.  I haven't gotten one in quite some time.
> 
> If anyone knows whether they are still in business and a current address/phone
> number for them, it would be much appreciated.
> 
> Or if there are other sources (besides REI & Campmor) Please let me know.  I
> haven't climbed in a number of years and need to replace some gear, so I am
> looking for sources.
> 
> Thanks,
> Mark

Mark,

IME is alive and well after the owner, Rick Wilcox, and a few others
just completed an Everest climb a year ago.  

Some honest and reasonable places are:

Mountain High Ltd
800-255-3182

Ragged Mountain
603-356-3042

Mountain Tools
408-625-6222

Climb High
802-985-5056

I've ordered from the top three places and Mtn Tools has a great
catalog.

peace out

gen.kanai@dartmouth.edu
From: mangin@debussy.inria.fr (Frank Mangin)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: water-heat-light and ropes - ??
Date: 28 Sep 92 09:08:04 GMT
Organization: INRIA, Sophia-Antipolis (Fr)

-- 
In article <1992Sep22.103033.59072@cc.usu.edu>, sinclair@cc.usu.edu (Bob Sinclair) writes:

|> * the temperature is not a problem as they treat their ropes at 350
|> degrees during manufacture. This reassures me, as I am always
|> very worried about the temperature that a fig-8 gets to on a long
|> rappel!

  Don't be to confident, I had a rope burnt by a beginner who waited 30 seconds
before removing his eight from the rope after a long rapelling. Only the sheath
was damaged, but the inner was visible and I had to retire the rope...


|> How do others feel about these questions and answers. what
|> happens when you are jumaring or rapelling and the sheath actually
|> fails? - A scary event I would ima
|>                                   g
|>                                    i
|>                                     n
|>                                     e
|>                                     !
|> 

  Happened to us last w.e.: no problem, you just lose one or two meters. The
real danger is when there is nobody at the the top of the rope to see the
problem happen (the sheath generally breaks at its point of contact with the
rock on the top of the rapell). If you continue rapelling or jumaring with the
sheath broken, I don't know how long the inner will resist to friction... I have
heard of a caver who died from jumaring on a 200m static line which broke. The
rope was cut near the top.

  Finally you should be -very- careful about the contact conditions between the
rock and the rope. In case of static lines for jumaring, you may even add
some stuff between rock and the rope.
  Also avoid using a single rope, and avoid making the rope move (up and down or
laterally) while it's loaded: it's the best way of cutting the sheath.

	Frank Mangin                
	Inria                            Phone #93 65 78 66
	2004 route des Lucioles          Email: mangin@mirsa.inria.fr
	06560 Valbonne Cedex
	France
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: jrb@Ingres.COM (John Black)
Subject: Usenet reference in Climbing Magazine...
Organization: Ingres, an ASK Company, Alameda CA 94501
Distribution: na
Date: 30 Sep 92 00:14:18 GMT

Did everyone notice the following in an article about the Joshua Tree 
earthquake in this month's issue of Climbing:

    Contrary to an early and persistant rumor, fed by a prank on a computer
    network, that Headstone Rock had fallen down, so far local climbers and
    rangers have found no rockfall or alterations.

I knew the Roofman would make it into the mags one day...

And congrats to Allen Sanderson for the "Whipper of the Month"!  Usually Mort's
the only netter who gets his name in lights... :-)

john//
From: rob@minster.york.ac.uk
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: Wolfgang Gullich Dead: thats a joke, right?
Date: 28 Sep 92 10:12:40 GMT
Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of York, England
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]

Gen M. Kanai (Gen.M.Kanai@dartmouth.edu) wrote:
: Wolfgang Gullich didnt die in a car crash did he?  When and where did
: this happen.  It cant have!  Wasnt he working on Stallone's movie? 
: What the hell!  On of the world's top sport climbers falling asleep at
: the wheel?!
: 
: 
: Gen

According to High the british mountaineering magazine he did die
in a car crash.  Full obit next month (Nov magazine)

Rob.
Xref: sparky rec.climbing:3652 rec.backcountry:7747
From: bob@halfdome.sf.ca.us (bob pasker)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing,rec.backcountry
Subject: Re: United Way and SAR
Date: 27 Sep 92 12:05:01 PDT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Disorganized Organization

In article <kllKr*Pi0@stile.stonemarche.org>, me@stile.stonemarche.org (Mark
Eklof) writes: > 	Okay, I'm confused.  Why not just contribute to the
groups you > want to contribute to directly?  That way, you know where the
money's > going, and there's no cut to the middleman. 

because many corporations' executives have made a "commitment" to united way to
raise a certain amount of funds.  they pressure their management who in turn
pressure the workers to contribute.  in no uncertain terms, managers are
measured by the % of their workers who make contributions and as such managers
look favorably on employees who agree to do so.  they don't want lump sums,
either: they encourage people to make a per-paycheck automatic deduction so
that people won't make a $5 sealed envelope contribution and be done with it. 
by having it go through the paycheck system, managers can check on how much is
being donated because they have access to this information.  usually, there is
one person in the manager's organization who is responsible for following up on
all the indivuduals in the group, harping on them to make contributions.  said
designated indivuduals are given training and allowed to use company time to
lobby the group memebers.  i have been this individual. it was conferred upon
me because i was the newest person in the manager's group and it was thought
that this would give me (a) a chance to meet everyone and (b) a chance to show
how well i could perform for the organization.  we were encouraged to have the
contributors make "open" contributions, i.e. ones that could be revealed,
rather than sealing them in envelopes.  *eveyone* was expected to make
contribution of some sort.  needless to say, i lasted a whole 6 weeks with this
organziation.  my only retribution is that two years later they were bought out
in a hostile take over:-) 

so, to make a short story long, if you're in one of these organizations and 
you are compelled to make a contribution, you can use the oppty to give to
SARs instead of missionary organziations.

-- 
-- bob pasker
-- bob@halfdome.sf.ca.us 
--
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: richard@smos.com (Richard Asano)
Subject: Re: JT guidebooks/Opinions on the two
Organization: S-MOS, Inc
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 20:09:09 GMT

In article <1992Sep25.020912.16714@riacs.edu> white@pioneer.arc.nasa.gov (Susan
White) writes:
> Hello, fans of Joshua Tree!
>
> Has anyone reviewed the two competing Joshua Tree climbing
>guides?  How do they compare? 
>
>If so, please post to the group as other climbers are also interested....

I have not seen any response to this.

Since it is approaching Joshua Tree season and since there are now two
guidebooks on Joshua Tree, I would be interested to hear from anyone
who may have compared the two.  The big fat guide by Randy Vogel ($35?)
I presume is an updated version of his old guidebook.

There is also a set of guidebooks by Alan Bartlett.  He seems to have a
series of guidebooks for Hidden Valley, Indian Cove, etc.  That seems
more convenient to carry around.

I have never gotten a chance to open up both guidebooks and compare
them side by side.  I would like to hear from someone who has.

Richard Asano
richard@rd.smos.com
From: 71064.456@CompuServe.COM (Steven Reiser)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: National Climbing Policy!
Date: 2 Oct 92 07:46:45 GMT


A national policy, and under a republican administration too! Which makes me
wonder...What, if any, impact will the upcoming election results have. Would
a Clinton administration be more restrictive, less, or no different? 
Inquiring minds want to know...
-- 
____________________________________________________________________________
  Steve Waddell                             sjw1@hector.cc.bellcore.com
  Bellcore                                  (908) 699-7032
____________________________________________________________________________

Steve,

Well, the National Park Service functions under a set of laws that have been 
expanding throughout this century.  Each new President inherits a bureaucracy 
that's been built upon for decades. Hence, they seem ineffective because they 
are battling not only proposed new legislation but trying to deal with the 
impact of everything built into the system before them in a changing world.

One of the most positive changes in much bureacracy that most Americans are  
naive about is that during the past decade there have been increasing changes 
in policies allowing and even encouraging public response to proposed 
bureaucratic rules. Hence, the 60 day public review process inviting public 
comment covers a wide range of documents and can make a difference provided 
that grassroots organizations take a stand creating a strong voice for change 
in proposed policies. 

The National Park Service is concerned because climbing which was once such a 
inconspicuous sport, now has exponentially increasing numbers crawling over 
the rock creating significant environmental impacts. Even though arguments 
over traditional vs. Euro-style tactics continue, the primary concern is the 
even greater impact on trails, camping, vegetation, etc.

Concerning bolting, it currently appears that it will still continue but with 
restrictions.  Some proposals are for parks to divide areas into zones with 
various levels of restrictions covering the whole spectrum of no bolting to 
anything goes.  However, the rate and density of bolting appears to be an 
issue which may be regulated by using a permit system.  A climber proposes to 
bolt a route and the National Park Service either says yes or no. Either bolts
are allowed or not allowed. If allowed, how they get there is a lesser 
concern, since there perspective is ENVIRONMENTAL and not STYLE. Also, bird 
nesting sites and impact on sightseers are issues.  Besides obviously 
protecting young birds, the sightseer issue is more vague, as it is the 
opinion of some park service employees in the Denver Regional office that 
seeing climbers on rock ruins the experience of sightseers, therefore climbing
should be banned in areas of heavy public use. 

These comments only reflects some of the ideas that have been discussed and 
may not reflect the final proposed draft, which climbers should review 
carefully upon issuance of the national climbing policy draft in the Federal 
Register for public review.
From: am2f+@andrew.cmu.edu (Anne Marguerettaz)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Men's Climbing Shoes for SALE
Date: 1 Oct 92 19:26:52 GMT
Organization: Doctoral student, Chemistry, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA

For Sale:
 
Green and black Summmit climbing shoes, men's size 12
Excellent condition, barely used (worn 5 or 6 times total).
Bought in July for $100.00 
 
$75.00 or B.O. 
 
 
 
Reply by email to this account or call (412) 361-8049 (Pittsburgh)