HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: tgpt_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Tom Guptill)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: VW giggle
Date: 13 Dec 92 16:46:22 GMT
Organization: University of Rochester - Rochester, New York



	I've found something that might help you watercooled owners:  I have
an ancient RCA stereo mounted in the radio mounting area of my Rabbit.  (It
eats every tape you put in it and only works on AM)  It's the one
immediately visible to a thief.  However, my real stereo is mounted just
above the hazard/defrost switches, where the sunglass holder belongs. 
(below the heater controls, for you post-'84 owners).  Of course, the
'diesel' label is as much of a theft deterrent as anything else.  

Tom.  (Who has to crawl in through the hatch because the only door that
works has a frozen lock.)  

-- 
| Tom Guptill           | tgpt_ltd@cc.rochester.edu (internet) |
| CPU Box 277445 U of R | tgpt_ltd@uordbv (bitnet)             |
| Rochester NY 14627    |                                      |
| (716) 274-0156        |                                      |
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: bossoj@aix.rpi.edu (Joseph Charles Bossolini)
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure Light
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 15:06:31 GMT

In article <1gqi01INNj90@aludra.usc.edu> mferdows@aludra.usc.edu (Mehrzad Ferdows) writes:
>dgren@omar.WPI.EDU (David Gerard Grenache) writes:
>
>>Driving around today, the oil pressure light on my '88 Golf would
>>go on for a second or two and then go off.  I checked the oil
>>immediately and there was plenty.  Also, there were none of the
>>usual noises associated with a loss of oil pressure.
>
>maybe different weight of oil?
>

I have had similar problems (not anymore) with my diesel because the oil
I was using was not heavy enough!
From: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Oil Cooler Question
Date: 16 Dec 1992 01:38:20 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, rgolen@UMASSD.EDU () says:

>I have an oil/water intercooler from an 86 GTI on my 83 Rabbit
>GTI autocrosser. During the winter I was planning on taking
>the old heatercore and using it to help disapate the 
>additional heat from the addition of the intercooler.
>
>Here's my question: Would I be better off putting the
>heatercore in series prior to the intercooler, logic
>being that the water used to cool the oil would be
>further cooled down before entering the intercooler, and
>thereby letting the oil run a bit cooler....
>                   or
>Put the heatercore after the intercooler, and thereby
>dissapating the additional heat from the oil cooler
>and not raising the coolant temp and keeping the
>engine/cooling system cooler?
>
>Any thoughts?
>
>Ric Golen
>
not to answer the question exactly, and i'm sure others willknow more,
but i read an article which claimed that the oil/water GTI cooler(i think
you are talking about the one that fits on the oil filter space?) should
be trashed, as there are many horror stories about them failing and..well.
your oil gets water in it, and your water gets oil in it, neither of which
is a good idea..  I do not know exact details about it, but they reccommended
that you trash the "stock" cooler in favour of a radiator style that will
keep the twain uncrossed.  Just what i read, take it as you want it!
DREW
From: BARANSKI@veamf1.nusc.navy.mil (Jim Baranski)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: [A] Opinions on 72 Bug Fate, please
Date: 14 Dec 92 17:10:23 GMT
Organization: Naval Underwater Sound Center, New London CT
X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.20

In <1992Dec11.160323.27508@newsgate.sps.mot.com> shade@chdasic.sps.mot.com writes:

 Though it hurts me to say so (IMHO), I'm afraid its time to retire this
 particular bug.  Unless you are willing to by a new pan and do a restore
 your particular cruising vessel sounds as though it structural integrity 
 has been greatly compromised.  There just not a lot you can do about 
 major rust damage.

I am interested in restoring this particular car, but it seems like I will have
to find a new/used frame/pan.  Anyone know of good suppliers?

More Questions:  

  One each side of my back window, there is what looks like vent openings, yet
  they don't appear to go anywhere, or they are blocked. What exactly are they
  for & why do they appear blocked?  

  Right next to these vents is a *large* phillips screw.  What are these for?
  Can I hang a small speaker from them?

  Could these vents be used to feed interior air to the fan box?  Hopefully
  this would be less prone to engine fumes then air from the engine
  compartment.  Failing this could I rig up a shroud to have the fan box draw
  air from the outside vents below the back window, again, hoping for less
  engine fumes?  What would be the best material/method to do this?

Jim.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: cs911390@ariel.yorku.ca (MARCO S MARINI)
Subject: Rabbit GTI vs. Golf GTI			
Originator: cs911390@a02.ariel.yorku.ca
Organization: York University, Toronto, Canada
Distribution: york
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 14:38:19 GMT



Hello everyone ... I had a quick question for you experienced VW owners:
I am on the market for a used car and would like to buy a GTI. I am not sure,
though, if I should get an '83-'84 Rabbit GTI or '85-'86 Golf GTI. I've owned
both an '85 and an '88 16V but had quite a few problems with the '85 (I guess
hitting the deer didn't help!!). Any advice ?? Looks wise, I like both cars\
(the Rabbits can look pretty"means" with some low profilw tires and nice rims!!)

Thanks in advance ...

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: BARANSKI@veamf1.nusc.navy.mil (Jim Baranski)
Subject: Re: to split or not to split
Organization: Naval Underwater Sound Center, New London CT
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 92 20:39:30 GMT
X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.20

In my opinion, the best thing to do is for all the late model cars that are all
wet, especially the none VW's to take a hike to rec.auto.

But then, what do I know?

Jim Baranski, Vax Systems | It's Not Easy Keeping Vaxen Working ...  Underwater!
Analyst, Naval Underwater | BARANSKI@VEAMF1.NUSC.NAVY.MIL 203-440-6510, 889-4968
Systems Ctr, New London CT| Be: Thoughtfull, Honest, Yourself, Happy
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: VW Truck Question
From: <RHG@psuvm.psu.edu>
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1992 20:57:10 EST
Organization: Penn State University

I have a 1983 VW pickup truck that's getting up there in milage--115,000
or so--and I'm thinking of moving on.  But a peculiar thing happened the
other day.  I met a guy at an interstate roadside rest who admired the
vehicle and said that he had one like it but isn't driving it anymore.
He's saving it as an investment.  Then he added, "Yours is worth more
today than when you bought it."

Well, I'm certainly am looking at it through new eyes.  Was this guy
simply blowing smoke?

Rob
From: mferdows@aludra.usc.edu (Mehrzad Ferdows)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: VW on LSD!?!?
Date: 20 Dec 1992 01:37:44 -0800
Organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA
NNTP-Posting-Host: aludra.usc.edu

eliot@lanmola.engr.washington.edu (eliot) writes:

>In article <BzJCCG.HCp@mach1.wlu.ca> shap5535@mach1.wlu.ca (Jason Shapiro u) writes:
>>Well I just saw my first REAL WORLD A3 Golf. I'd seen them before in pictures
>>etc. but this time I was driving into Toronto on the 401, and BAM!! there was
>>a bright red, 4 door Golf, and man was it UGLY! 


the whole reason why I like the A2 bodies is because they have kept their old 
styles. I HATE the new looks that cars are taking these day, a few more years
and cars are just going to be completely round.... Thats why I dont like
the new golfs.. look too much like the new civics (yeuch!).
From: gt7460c@prism.gatech.EDU (SHERIDAN,BRADLEY RYAN)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Scirocco exhaust
Summary: which header is best?
Date: 16 Dec 92 18:33:20 GMT
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology


 Over the holidays I will have the opportunity to work on my 85 Scirocco, and
I have decided to add a free flow exhaust. So far, I have decided that I want
a tri-y header (the cat-hookup is optional). Does anybody have any ideas or
recommendations as far as what to get? Also, should I get the exhaust from
the cat to the muffler replaced before I get the header? I've been thinking
about buying a Supertrapp muffler. Are there any other brands that I should
look at? Does anybody know an inexpensive place that sells Supertrapp's?
 For anyone thinking of new shocks and springs, I recently replaced mine with
Suspension Techniques lowering(1.25") springs and KYB shocks. The new springs 
really made a difference in the way it handles, and it looks better lowered
(it isn't obvious that it's been lowered, it's fairly subtle). I got the
shocks and springs for $400 installed at BMVW (I Think that was a pretty good
deal) near Atlanta.

Thanks for any advice,

Brad Sheridan
gt7460c@prism.gatech.edu
-- 
SHERIDAN,BRADLEY RYAN
Georgia Institute of Technology, Atlanta Georgia, 30332
uucp:	  ...!{decvax,hplabs,ncar,purdue,rutgers}!gatech!prism!gt7460c
Internet: gt7460c@prism.gatech.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: hollen@megatek.UUCP (Dion Hollenbeck)
Subject: Re: VW giggle
Organization: Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 18:19:23 GMT

>>>>> On 11 Dec 92 18:38:16 GMT, IDJMW@ASUACAD.BITNET said:

J.> Came out of the house to my 66 Beetle this morning to find that some
J.> very inept burglar had tried to rip off the tape player. Not only
J.> did this incredibly stupid person empty the glove box all over
J.> the front seat, he couldn't get the radio out of the dash. He pulled
J.> off the plastic piece fronting the radio, yanked off the knobs and
J.> of course couldn't yank OUT the tape player. He then tried to push
J.> it back into the dashboard. Too stupid to pop the bonnet and take it
J.> out. Also too stupid to realize that a person who drives a 66 VW with
J.> a hippie paint job has nothing of value to steal ANYHOW.

You think your burglar was inept, I got you beat hands down.  I have a
1967 squareback.  The radio is is a cardboard console under the dash,
no vinyl, this is just a mockup until I can make a real one out of
hardboard and cover it with vinyl.  The bungler gets the knobs off the
radio, evidently sticks them in his pocket and cannot figure out how
to get the radio out of a cardboard enclosure.

So now what I get for his trouble is a broken window and no knobs on
my radio.  Not even enough to report for insurance claim.

-- 
Dion Hollenbeck                        Email: hollen@megatek.com
Senior Software Engineer                      megatek!hollen@uunet.uu.net
Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California    ucsd!megatek.uucp!nollen
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: bernie@metapro.DIALix.oz.au (Bernd Felsche)
Subject: Re: puddle problems
Organization: MetaPro Systems, Perth, Western Australia
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 92 06:50:12 GMT

In <1992Dec13.215546.26983@athena.mit.edu> janson@athena.mit.edu () writes:

>i've had something strange happen during the last few days if
>inclement (!!) weather up here in boston.

>when i've driven through puddle, i've been very careful recently
>to minimize splashing since it (i think) makes my steering belt
>squeal.

>in the last few days yet another thing has appeared, that causes
>me greater worries: both the battery and the oxs lights glow.
>they don't come on full. they just glow a bit and then fade out
>after a few seconds or as soon as i accelerate.

Water's being splashed onto all the belts/pulleys by the
front wheel. There's a standard splash shield which was
fitted to my 1990 (bought new in Feb 92) GTI which fixed the
problem, as far as I can tell - i.e. it hasn't happened
sice. The shield may not fit you particular model, but give
it a go anyway.

See if your VW dealer is willing to do the job free of charge.
Over here, the car would be considered as unusuitable for
the intended use without the mod, so it has to be done that
way, even out of warranty. :-)
-- 
+-----+ Bernd Felsche                     _--_|\  #include <std/disclaimer.h>
| | | | MetaPro Systems Pty Ltd          /      \ bernie@metapro.DIALix.oz.au
| | | | 328 Albany Highway,              X_.--._/         Fax: +61 9 472 3337
|m|p|s| Victoria Park, Western Australia 6100  v        Phone: +61 9 362 9355
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: garrett@Ingres.COM (REACH OUT AND GREP SOMEONE)
Subject: Re: Need advice on 1st Beetle, please
Summary: Some advice  
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.4-b1  
Keywords: 
Organization: ASK Computer Systems, Ingres Product Division
Date: 15 Dec 92 23:33:08 GMT

In article <eric.7@eeco.cba.ufl.edu>, eric@eeco.cba.ufl.edu (Eric E.C. Olson)     writes...
>For years it was just an appreciation of a unique vehicle, then it grew into 
>fondness, now it's genuine LUST!  In short, I want a Beetle.
>I've seen the "Idiot book" by Muir mentioned repeatedly on this group - it's 
>on order at the bookstore.  Beyond that, what books should I look at?
>I've got about $2000 to spend.  I'd like to save some for the inevitable 
>post-purchase repairs.  

You'll need it. All old cars need some maintinance. (And then there is what 
I like to call "Customizing")
	Also, get yourself a metric socket set and feeler gauges.
> 
>What Beetles should I be looking at?  [Complete neophyte here].  Are '60s 
>models preferable to '70s models -- simplicity of design & repair?  What's 
>different about a Super Beetle?

I suggest late 60's to early 70's. Why? Because parts aern't hard to find,
and they seem to be pretty standardized. Don't get a 6 volt. The headlights
won't be bright enough, and it will limit your choices of stereo equiptment.
	Just make sure that interior engine, clutch, and transmission are
in good shape. Everything else you can repair yourself for not much money.
	The only real differences of the Super Beetle are subtle ones
in the front body, and the steering column.
> 
>Sorry for the simplistic questions, but thanks for your help!

No problem. You can't learn unless you ask.
> 
>Eric

-Garrett
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: Re: Switch on brake pedal w/ chain to clutch???
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1992 12:24:55 GMT

In article <1992Dec13.042655.12074@wuecl.wustl.edu>, anbo@wuee1.wustl.edu (Albrecht Jander) writes:
>I have a 82 (Air cooled) Vanagon with a "feature" that I can't explain.
>On the stem of the brake pedal there is a round thing with a lever on 
>it.  Tied to the lever is a chain (like the ones they use to tie pens
>to banks so you don't steal them after you sign your check) which runs
>down to the floor, around a guide and to the clutch pedal.  The net 
>effect being that if you step on either the brake or the clutch, the
>lever moves.  Also on the dohickie there are a wire and a hose which
>run off into the floor.  
>
>What the heck is this for.  Neither Bentley or Haynes mention it, and
>it doesn't seem to make any difference if I have it connected or not.
>
>Albrecht
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>                        Peltier was a cool dude!!

The "dohickie" you refer to sounds like the cutoff switch used to 
turn off an aftermarket cruise-control unit when you either brake
(you dont want to fight the engine when decelerate) or when
you step on the clutch (you don't want the revs to go
thru the roof when your clutch is disengaged).

Then again it could be a triggering device which is attached to
a microprocessor based counter which triggers approximately
5 pounds of C4 explosive. At a randomly generated number of
clutch and/or brake applications....POW!!  As was said
in "Repo Man"..."Sometimes people (and or vanagons) just
explode". Devices of this type have been known to be
attached to cars by disgruntaled Polish terrorists.

Ric Golen



Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: root@vestek.com (Operator)
Subject: Re: need recommend for SF bay area engine rebuild
Organization: Vestek Systems, S.F.
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 92 23:05:40 GMT

In article <1glrplINNmrb@morrow.stanford.edu> GC.SUL@forsythe.stanford.edu (Sullivan) writes:
>I've got to get my VW engine rebuilt for my '65 bus.  I don't
>want to do it myself again, I'd prefer to pull the engine out,
>pull the carb and shrouding off it and take it somewhere to trade
>in or be rebuilt.  Can you recommend places that are good and
>inexpensive in the SF bay area.  I have ads from VW trends for
>rebuilt engines, but I think this route might be less expensive.
>
>Mike
>
Please post it!! I also need a rebuild for my '70 Ghia.  What is the average
price for a rebuild in the S.F. bay area?

don@vestek.com
.
From: Ralph.C.Lindenfeld@dartmouth.edu (Ralph C. Lindenfeld)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Call for Vote (two groups or one)
Date: 17 Dec 92 19:19:32 GMT
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH
X-Posted-From: InterNews1.0b3@newshost.dartmouth.edu

It seems there's quite a bit of disagreement as to two or one, let's
have 1) discussion and 2) vote (or whatever the procedure is).

Ralph "twogroup1960VW Panelvan" Lindenfeld
From: jgladu@bcm.tmc.edu (grungy (John F. Gladu))
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Two Newsgroups or One?
Followup-To: rec.autos.vw
Date: 15 Dec 1992 18:12:24 GMT
Organization: Systems Support Center, BCM
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: j.ssctr.bcm.tmc.edu

In article <1992Dec5.144940.9517@dartvax.dartmouth.edu>,
Ralph.C.Lindenfeld@dartmouth.edu (Ralph C. Lindenfeld) wrote:
>   I'd like to see the newsgroup break up into two.

I agree.  I have three air-cooleds and my wife has a wasserboxer and I
spend most of my time wading through the H2O stuff to get to what I want...
If there is a vote, how will we be notified?

bcnu - grungy (John Gladu) 61panel,68&69bugs
Systems Support Center -- Baylor College of Medicine
INTERNET: jgladu@bcm.tmc.edu  | VOICE: (713)798-7370
 US MAIL:  One Baylor Plaza, Houston, Texas  77030
From: danno@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Daniel Gary Soiney)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: VW giggle
Date: 15 Dec 1992 21:43:05 GMT
Organization: Computing Services Division, University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
NNTP-Posting-Host: 129.89.7.4

i had my wing window broken and the piece of cardboard covering the radio
hole stolen, likewise, my glovebox had been emptied all over the car
what really pissed me off is they scratched a new paint job
danno

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: zowie@daedalus.stanford.edu (Craig "Powderkeg" DeForest)
Subject: Re: VW giggle
Organization: Stanford Center for Space Science and Astrophysics
Date: 12 Dec 92 21:08:43

In article <foo> <IDJMW@ASUACAD.BITNET>Jo Namio writes:
   Came out of the house to my 66 Beetle this morning to find that some
   very inept burglar had tried to rip off the tape player. 

	[funny-yet-tragic story deleted]

Yup.  Back when my '73 was still running (it's permantly retired in
the Stanford Band Shak now -- but that's another story entirely),
someone broke in to it to steal the stereo.  I had an under-dash,
hideously cheap Clarion tape deck -- one of the ones that doesn't
rewind because it only has the take-up spindle -- which was broken
(the spindle drive wasn't working, so it ate tapes), right next to the
brand-new Cobra ANL/auto-lots-of-stuff CB, and over the wonderful
selection of Craftsman tools I had left out (complete metric/english
3/8" socket sets, torque wrench, timing light, etc.).  They bent the
triangular window latch, by prying the window open, and ripped out the
broken stereo, leaving everything else and saving me the trouble of
throwing it out.

I saw it at around 2am.  Went and told a friend of mine who was awake
across campus (this was at Reed College), and had a fastback.  She
laughed and told me that she always left the doors unlocked because
she didn't want anyone to break her latches.  We walked over to her
car, and, sure enough, her stereo was gone.  They had broken the
little triangular window to get in...

But then, the kind of people who steal car stereos are, of necessity,
not the kind of people who get into college anyway...

--
DON'T DRINK SOAP! DILUTE DILUTE! OK!
Organization: Doctoral student, Industrial Administration, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 18:01:51 -0500 
From: Doug vanderVeen <dv0o+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re :Air Cooled FAQ.

WEll it seems Carnegie Mellon is running a bit behind in picking up its
mail.  Hence my confusion in saying I was starting a FAQ.  I will
continue my eforts at gathering answers and editing them together, but
rest assured there willbe only one FAQ.  Cooperation is being sought. 
Keep up your contributions.  A FAQ will emerge.

DvdV
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: dfulton@tolstoy.helios.nd.edu (david fulton)
Subject: Re: Need advice on 1st Beetle, please
Reply-To: dfulton@handel.helios.nd.edu (Dave Fulton)
Organization: Department of Aerospace & Mechanical Engineering, University of Notre Dame
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 03:31:35 GMT

In article <1992Dec15.233308.14350@pony.Ingres.COM>, garrett@Ingres.COM (REACH OUT AND GREP SOMEONE) writes:
|> In article <eric.7@eeco.cba.ufl.edu>, eric@eeco.cba.ufl.edu (Eric E.C. Olson)     writes...
|> >For years it was just an appreciation of a unique vehicle, then it grew into 
|> >fondness, now it's genuine LUST!  In short, I want a Beetle.
|> >I've seen the "Idiot book" by Muir mentioned repeatedly on this group - it's 
|> >on order at the bookstore.  Beyond that, what books should I look at?
|> >I've got about $2000 to spend.  I'd like to save some for the inevitable 
|> >post-purchase repairs.  
|> >Sorry for the simplistic questions, but thanks for your help!
|> 
|> No problem. You can't learn unless you ask.
|> > 
|> >Eric
|> 
|> -Garrett

	Adding to what others before me have said, I agree
that it would be best for you to get a 68-72 Regular Beetle. (I'm a purist)
Although isn't a big theoretical difference between different model
years (learn one you can learn the rest easily), the later beetle will
probably cost you less for a better car.  If you know any, take a VW 
freak along when you look at any cars.  The major points to look for,
at least here in the rust belt, are rusted/rusting heater channels (bottom of 
door frame) , rusted out battery box (under rear seat) and a lot of play
in the flywheel. (needs engine rebuild)

					Happy Hunting

						Dave

-- 
The moon may be smaller than Earth, but it's further away.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mdailey@bnr.ca (Matthew N. Dailey)
Subject: Re: Renewing pushrod tubes in a 77 bus engine
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, BNR-RTP 
Distribution: rec.autos.vw
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 18:00:03 GMT

In article <1992Dec16.021643.5621@daffy.cs.wisc.edu>, stephens@cat53.cs.wisc.edu (Philip Stephenson) writes:
|> Hi all-
|> As I have mentioned before, I have recently acquired a 77 camper.  Most of the 
|> problems have been fixed, but I have one remaining one that I want to fix soon.
|> After the engine has run, as it is cooling down, I get little puddles of oil on
|> either side of the engine.  Futher looking has convinced me that the leaks are
|> at the point where one or more of the push rod tubes meet the heads (I have
|> ruled out the valve cover gaskets already)  According to the Haynes manual, I
|> can replace these with some kind of 'telescoping' tubes.  Any experience with 
|> this?  In any case, can anyone recommend a way to stop the leak that does not
|> involve pulling the engine?
|> Thanks,
|> Phil
|> 

Phil,

You probably don't need to replace your pushrod tubes at all --
just get a new set of pushrod tube seals.  To get the tubes
out, you need to remove the valve covers and rocker assemblies.
Then you pull the pushrods out of their tubes then the tubes
can be pulled out through the head with a jerk of the hand.

The seals are little O-rings for each end of each tube.

-- 

Matt Dailey

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw