HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: psanders@ll.mit.edu (Pete Sanders)
Subject: Engine Swap
Originator: psanders@ll.mit.edu (Pete Sanders)
Organization: MIT Lincoln Laboratory
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 92 16:44:03 GMT



David Shy says:

>I've got a 1978 Pontiac Le Mans.  It's got quite a bit of mileage on it
>already.  Although it is in relatively good condition, it is no longer
>worth anything since it is the base model and it is not exactly a     
>collector's item.

>I would like to keep this car for at least another six years.  (I find that
>the local law enforcement doesn't look at me when I speed in it whereas all
>my friends w/ the "sporty" looking cars are getting tickets left and right :)

>It's got the carburated 3.8 L V6 and an automatic transmission.  I am 
>considering swapping in a V8 (remanufactured or otherwise) and junking
>the automatic and replace it w/ a manual (not exaclty sure where to get
>one at the present moment)

	I have a 1980 Monte Carlo that originally had a 3.8L V6. I paid $200.00
for it without an engine or tranny. The body had about 35K miles on it. I was
not interested in installing a V6 ( after seeing how long the last one lasted).
I hapened to find a 1979 monte carlo auto with a V8 that had been broad-sided. The car had 23K miles on it. It cost me $400.00. I installed some performance parts on the 305 ( cam, intake manifold, 4bl carb )and swapped it into the 1980 Monte without any problem. Of course this was a Chevy to Chevy swap. As far as the front springs, don't worry about it. Those 3.8L V6s are not much lighter than a small block Chevy V8. My car rides just fine with the V8. It doesn't bottom out or ride too low. The rear end i






n your car is the same 10 bolt that a V8 model would get ( maybe a different ratio). I have over 90K miles on my car now and I drive it pretty hard. I've had no problems with rear end or any part of the drive train in any way.

	A freind of mine did the same thing with a Buick Regal. He took 1978 Regal turbo coupe with a blown engine and installed a Chevy SB V8 and TH350 tranny combination without changing the drive shaft. Use the Chevy motor mounts.

	I would look through you local Auto swapper and find a totaled Monte Carlo or Malibu ( 1978 - present) and swap the engine and tranny into your car. You might be able to find one cheap that has low miles on it.

	As far as the law goes, I have yet to get a speeding ticket yet (knock on wood), and the car is quite fast. It is not quite the car my 300ZX was (bought a house), but my insurance premiums are nice, parts are cheap, and I 've had not theft attempts as of yet.

	Good luck


	Pete

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: koziarzw@lonex.rl.af.mil (Walter Koziarz)
Subject: Re: BALANCING RADIAL TIRES?
Keywords: tires, balancing, radial
Organization: RL
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 92 22:13:33 GMT

In article <1992Sep20.223424.26961@ee.rochester.edu> chan@ee.rochester.edu (Chan) writes:

>Is there a reason why radial tires should not be crossed during a 4 wheels
>tire rotation?

yes, if they are directional-treaded performance tires....
[ please spare me from having to re-quote factory service manual pages...]
otherwise 'rearward cross' is preferred UNLESS *YOUR* tire manufacturer says
otherwise. 

Walt K.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks)
Subject: Re: Are cylinders in performance cars honed??
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 18:36:46 GMT

In article <1992Oct1.221149.12056@cabot.balltown.cma.COM> welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty) writes:
>In article <1992Sep30.164452.18703@ee.ubc.ca> jeffc@ee.ubc.ca (jeffrey chow) writes:
>
>>  So the question to all you netters is: "Are the cylinders in performance
>>cars honed????".  If not, why not?
>
>well
>
>1) if you didn't hone them, i can't imagine how you'd keep oil
>on the cylinder walls
>
>and
>
>2) back in july, i visited one of the top competition motor
>building shops in the midwest, and talked with owner Gary Ostrich
>while he honed out the cylinder bores in a big block GM he was
>building for a drag racer.
>
>so off hand, i'd say that your friend is blowing something.
>             ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
If he doesn't hone his cylinders, and his rings don't seat right, my guess is
the smoke he's blowing is probably the oily blue-gray type  :-)

 
Ted Brooks
 ______________________________________________________________________
| Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are my own, and do not reflect    |
| those of my employer. Advice is free, but you get what you pay for.  |
|                               ________                               |
|                         _____|  1955  |_______                       |
|                        /      Chevrolet      /                       |
|                       /______  BelAir  _____/                        |
|                              |________|                              |
|______________________________________________________________________|
From: michaeln@hpcvnb.CV.HP.COM (Mike_Nason)
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 92 03:35:35 PDT
Subject: Re: F-150 Clutch Failure
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Corvallis, Oregon
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

   This is not a slam or anything but clutch break when abused. 52k miles is not
bt
bad for a clutch. It all depends on the usage it gets. I ran a 1973 F100 and was
lu
lucky to get 4 months running out of a stock clutch. In fact I only got 4 months
outs
out of a Borg Warner Street and Strip. As to the 300 six and a manual being
somewhat of a rare item. The dealer has to be kidding!. I guess it all depends
where you live.  I don't think you said what kind of trans was in the truck
,(4 sp, 5 sp) or what gearing it had. 
   Even the 6 cylinder truck has a bit of weight to it. the springs are to
make the clutch engage softer, smoother, but aren't mandatory.          
   When I got tired of replacing clutches I spent the money and went to a
ceramic clutch. It can still be broken but it takes a lot of punishment. 
   IMHO I think I would need a little more information as to how it was used
before I said more. But, like the man said. It wasn't wore out, it broke. I
think I'd get ahold of the Ford Consumer Complaint Number if I were you and
see what they say.  Mike

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hemal@donuts0.uucp ()
Subject: Car stalling problem
Reply-To: hemal@donuts0.uucp ()
Organization: Bellcore, Piscataway, NJ
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 92 13:38:31 GMT

Friends,

I have 1988 non-turbo Checy Spectrum, and experincing the following
problem. 

The car stalls approxi. every 30 seconds when I stop (my foot on break)
and car is in Drive (D). Engine runs smooth when I switch to
nutral. I checked transmission fluid it is in perfect condition.
Just started two days ago.

Any Ideas what might have been wrong ?

Hemal Patel
donuts0.bellcore.com!hemal
908-699-7849
From: sgm@otter.hpl.hp.com (Steve Methley)
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 09:56:08 GMT
Subject: Re: Alternator, battery problems and please help!!
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories, Bristol, UK.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

zhou@solb1.essex.ac.uk (Zhou J) in <5669@sersun1.essex.ac.uk>:

> .............So I checked the battery water
> levels and found the water was almost all gone and there was this black
> color in the holes. The guy in the autoshop(where I bought the battery)
> told me it was because the alternator was over-charging the battery so
> the battery boiled off all the water and the black color was due to
> the dry-over-charging.  He said it was most likely the regulator in the
> alternator was gone and it could couse all kinds of problems.........

I'd say yes your alternator is overcharging.  Why don't you measure the
battery voltage when the engine is running?  As you rev the car the alternator
regulator should not allow the voltage much above 14.5 volts or so.  If it hits
say 17 volts and is rev dependent then your regulator at least is stuffed.
What type of alternator is it, does it whine?  It may be more sensible to get a
recon unit.  Small ones can be had for 30 pounds, but I'll bet your Japanese
car's one is more!

Hope this helps,
Cheers,
Steve.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: drew@caesar.cs.colorado.edu (Drew Eckhardt)
Subject: Re: Morning Stall on Honda Accord
Organization: University of Colorado at Boulder
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 22:34:19 GMT

In article <1992Oct1.212435.16173@access.digex.com> mhm104@access.digex.com (Mitch Markowitz) writes:
>Hello, 
>
>     I have a 1984 Honda Accord with 86,000 miles on it.  The body is in perfect condition and so is the engine...with one exception.  In cold weather, in the morning, the car takes at least 15-20 min to warm-up.  If I dare move the car before this time period, I can be almost sure that it will stall out on the road at the first stop light.
>
>     The car has bee to the dealer four times.  The last time, last winter, they replaced the insulator block under the carb.  they assured me this would do the trick.  It did for awhile.  Now, this morning, which was cold, it did it again.  Does anyone have any ideas?   Any help would be appreciated.
>

I'd look at two things : 

1. Make sure the choke is closing properly when the car is 
	cold.  When the intake manifold is cold, a lot of the fuel vapor 
	condenses on the manifold rather than making it into the 
	cylinders.  You need a rich mixture to compensate for this.  

2. As far as taking 20 minutes to warm up - you might see if the thermostat
	is sticking open.  
	
-- 
Microsoft is responsible for propogating the evils it calls DOS and Windows, 
IBM for AIX (appropriately called Aches by those having to administer it), but 
marketing's sins don't come close to those of legal departments.
Boycott AT&T for their absurd anti-BSDI lawsuit.
From: rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com (Bob Rusk)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Engine Swap
Date: 2 Oct 92 19:22:38 GMT
	<RRUSK.92Oct2142021@rcx1.ssd.csd.harris.com>
Reply-To: rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com
Organization: Harris Computer Systems Division

I forgot to mention in my previous post about my father-in-law's swap of a
350 into an '81 Cutlass, but the Cutlass' front springs were way too soft
for that much weight.  The car bottommed out continuously, and had a
distinctly nose-down attitude when sitting still.

--
--
 Bob Rusk
 rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com
 My thoughts, probably not Harris'.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rg9538@ehsn12.cen.uiuc.edu (Ronald E Garnett)
Subject: Re: white smoke, burning oil, 96,000 miles?
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1992 18:12:04 GMT

btbg1194@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Bradley T Banko) writes:

>Hi.  This is probably a pretty basic question, but I would appreciate
>some pointers.  I have a 1985 Buick Century with 96,000 miles on a 
>4 cylinder engine.  I have had the car since 50,000 miles and have 
>tried to take good care of it by getting oil changes every 3,000 miles
>or so, etc.  
>Recently it has been spitting out some white smoke (from the exhaust)
>for a short time when starting.  I don't know very much about engines,
>but I suspect that this has something to do with oil leaking around the
>engine cylinders and getting into the fuel mixture or something.
>The oil level hasn't been dropping very noticeably, and I haven't needed
>to add oil between changes yet.  I am a graduate student, and don't
>drive the car very much.

>Is this potentially a serious problem?  I am willing to invest in some
>maintenance when it becomes necessary and if it is likely to get me
>another 20-50,000 miles out of the vehicle.

Have you checked your antifreeze level lately?  While it's not the only
cause of white smoke, if water gets into your engine, a white steam is
produced.  I saw this when my Mazda 626 (1982) blew a head gasket.
Actually, I saw it both times I blew a gasket-  once at 90000 miles 
and once at 115000.  I don't meaan to scare you...  1982 626's have
a history of head gasket problems.  Watch your antifreeze level
and look for water in your oil or oil in your water.  Both can be signs 
of gasket problems....  

Ron Garnett (I now own a 89 Ford Probe Turbo GT...no gasket probs yet!)
From: pcw@flutter.tv.tek.com (Patrick C. Wilkins)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Cracked Head Chrysler/Mitsubishi 2.2l
Date: 26 Sep 92 02:09:38 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Organization: Tektronix TV Products


   >When I took it to my mechanic he said it's one of two things, either a
   >blown head gasket, or a cracked cylinder head.  If it's the gasket it'll
   >cost about $500, but if the head is cracked it will have to be replaced to
   >the tune of $1000.  It's an aluminum head, and he claims it cannot be
   >repaired by heliarcing.

   >I thought cracked cylinder heads could be repaired.  Has anyone else had
   >cylinder head problems with this engine?  If so, what was done, and what
   >did it cost?

It sounds to me like your getting close enough to the price of a new 
or remanufactured engine to justify putting one in. Especially if 
the engine you have has over, say, 80k miles. Welding iron cylinder heads 
is very difficult, aluminum is undoubtly worse.

I have a non-turbo 2.2 in a minivan that i had to replace a 
cylinder head on at 85k miles because it was loosing coolant & oil due 
to head warpage. Doing the work myself, the parts cost was about $200.
Most of that being the remaufactured head. Tack on $100 for the core 
value if yours is cracked. With $200 labor the total of $500 sounds ok, but
$1000 if the head has to be replaced sounds fishy.



--

-------------------------------------------------------------------
    Pat Wilkins II
    A.K.A. Clif
    Email pcw@flutter.tv.tek.com
    Work 503-627-6525

-------------------------------------------------------------------
    Is Deja-vu real or is life just redundant???????
-------------------------------------------------------------------
From: hacker@cco.caltech.edu (Jonathan Bruce Hacker)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Cold = Super braking power??
Date: 30 Sep 1992 02:46:18 GMT
Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: punisher.caltech.edu

msingh@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (The Supreme Commander) writes:
>tidbit. Whenever I'm at a light with my foot on the brake, the car
>idles roughly. If I take my foot off the brake (Not that I'd be on the
>brake if there was no incline...) the engine idles more smoothly.

>I have yet to hear anyone give me a good explanation on that little
>problem.


I'll give it a try...

When you put your foot on the brake you place about a 120 Watt load on
the alternator because of the brake lights.  This causes the idle
speed to drop a little (50 rpm) and the engine runs a little rougher.

value: 2 cents.


-- 
Jon Hacker
Caltech, Pasadena CA
hacker@tumbler-ridge.caltech.edu
From: tim@dwp.la.ca.us (Tim Mortensen)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: *** Design Logic Faults ***
Date: 2 Oct 92 20:54:34 GMT
Organization: LADWP

In article <1992Oct2.165655.25798@news.cs.brandeis.edu> andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang) writes:
>Originally belt driven fans were used to cool the radiator all the
>time.  However they cost power to run and so to improve efficiency
>they went to electric smart fans.......
I think fan clutches were doing plenty on the efficiency side, but they
all went to crappy FWD with transverse mounted engines with nowhere to
to put a stinking simple fan.
-- 
\ _
0 0   Tim Mortensen
 (
\__   tim@manta.dwp.la.ca.us
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: thompsje@craft.camp.clarkson.edu (Jeffrey E. Thompson)
Subject: Speedo and tach in '73 BMW 2002
Organization: Clarkson University
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 17:32:38 GMT


I read an article a while ago that said that the newer BMWs have
electronic speedos and tachs, but when did they start to have them ?
I ask because I noticed that when I shut my 2002 off the tach drops to
zero before the engine has dropped 100rpm, which would be consistent with
electronic behavior.  But if the speedometer is electronic, it would read
positive mph when traveling in reverse, which it doesn't.

I know the systems are independent of one another, but it would make sense
if they were both the same type. (ie both electronic or both analog)
does anybody know which is which and why ??

thanx

Jeff
From: sstout@yukon.EBay.Sun.COM (Steve Stout, Mgr. Sales Negotiations)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: oil pressure guage
Date: 1 Oct 1992 21:29:46 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Distribution: world
Reply-To: sstout@yukon.EBay.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: yukon.ebay.sun.com

Last weekend the oild pressure guage on my '79 Chevy 4X4 w/race
built 350 started acting up.  It would read normal at idle, then
go off the scale as I accelerated and stick there until it got
back to idle.  I figure it has got to be the sending unit or the`
guage- the wiring looks fine.  Is there anything I can do to
check it other than just buying another sending unit and seeing
if that fixes it?

'Steve

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bill@iron.tandem.com (Bill Norcott)
Subject: Re: New inexpensive pre-oiler
Reply-To: norcott_bill@tandem.com  (Bill Norcott)
Organization: Tandem Computers, Inc.
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 18:02:24 GMT

In article <454.88.uupcb@chaos.lrk.ar.us>, dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)  writes:

|> -> Take the $60 and get yourself a few cases of motor oil and a box of
|> -> oil filters.
|> 
|>  I'll take that over all the miracle additives, block heaters, and
|> pre-oilers.  Of course, it's kinda nasty to jack it up, crawl
|> underneath, and get oil drooling down your arm - most people would
|> rather shell out $60 for some widget and not have to do things right.
|>                                                                                                                       
My only claim about a block heater is that it makes your car easier
to start in cold weather.  To infer that I recommend it instead of 
regular oil changes or that I don't change my own oil, is a silly
conclusion, not to mention patronizing. 

-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------|
Bill Norcott			GUARDIAN POSIX project
Tandem Computers, Inc.		
10600 N. Tantau Avenue		PHONE:  (408) 285-3253
Cupertino, CA   95014		EMAIL: norcott_bill@tandem.com
From: hsong@ardour.bellcore.com (G. Hugh Song)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: How to loosen the brake assembly when changing pads?
Date: 5 Oct 92 23:07:17 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Red Bank, NJ
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5

When you want to change the brake pad yourself.   The old pads are
pretty thin.  And the new ones are thick.  Last time, when I changed the
rear drum brake, I gave up in the middle of the job since I could not 
push the cylinder enough to reassemble the drum.   In the end,
I brought the car to Pepboy store who did a terrible job.

This time, I am trying to change the front disc pads.  Again, I managed
to pull out the two pins which hold the pads and other assembly.  However,
the left-over pressure which presses the pads towards the rotor is still
too great that I cannot pull the pads out.  If I managed to pull out the
old pads, I do not think I can install the new thick pads in place.
There must be a way to loosen the pressure from the brake system.

I need a quick help.  Please email.

Thank you.

	Hugh
From: rhaar@albert.cs.gmr.com (Bob Haar)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: DOHC on a V8 possible?
Date: 29 Sep 92 12:41:47 GMT
Reply-To: rhaar@albert.cs.gmr.com
Organization: G.M. Research Labs

In article uupcb@chaos.lrk.ar.us, dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) writes:
|>
|>-> You forgot to mention that the Corvette ZR-1 engine is designed by
|>-> Lotus - a British company (OK I know it's owned by GM).
|>
|>....and built by Mercury Marine in Oklahoma, not by Chevrolet in Detroit.
|>And apparently not long for this world, as ZR-1 sales have taken a
|>nosedive since the introduction of the 300hp pushrod motor.
|>     

Without question, the ZR1 is a very expensive option.

The `93 ZR1 is rated 405HP @ 5800 RPM, while the standard LT1 engine
is 300 HP @ 5000 RPM.          

---
	Robert Haar               InterNet : rhaar@gmr.com 
	Computer Science Dept., G.M. Research Laboratories
DISCLAIMER: Unless indicated otherwise, everything in this note is
personal opinion, not an official statement of General Motors Corp.


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bill@iron.tandem.com (Bill Norcott)
Subject: Follow up: $49 Craftsman socket sets
Reply-To: norcott_bill@tandem.com  (Bill Norcott)
Organization: Tandem Computers, Inc.
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 21:40:13 GMT

The 92 piece Craftsman socket sets are back!  They are now available
at Sears as a "special purchase" for $49.97 (before they were a
clearance item for $49, but not in all stores).  It is catalog number
9-33055.  I think when they say special purchase they will show up
in all the stores.

-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------|
Bill Norcott			GUARDIAN POSIX project
Tandem Computers, Inc.		
10600 N. Tantau Avenue		PHONE:  (408) 285-3253
Cupertino, CA   95014		EMAIL: norcott_bill@tandem.com
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: oxygen sensor
Date: 6 Oct 92 19:38:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> Mark... the typical failure mode of Ox sensors is a slow degradation
-> in it's response time to changing Ox concentrations... typical
-> symptoms:


 What causes them to go bad?  Gunk buildup on the sensor?  Slow
poisoning from contaminants?  Erosion?

 If you scavenge a sensor from the junkyard, is there any way to test it
without actually installing it?
From: dje@needle.Berkeley.EDU (Don Eilenberger)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: oxygen sensor
Date: 6 Oct 92 14:17:03 GMT
Reply-To: dje@sword.bellcore.com (Don Eilenberger)
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ

In article <1aqrk1INNads@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>, aa650@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Marc Snitzer) writes:
|> 
|> I have a Toyota '86 Van with fuel injection.  The maintenance
|> schedule says to replace the oxygen sensor at 60K miles.  I now
|> have over 70K and it's still running fine on the orig sensor.
|> Any comments on if it should be replaced?  There "eng" light has
|> not come on so I assume there are no codes in the diagnostic
|> system.  Will it just start running rough or what?  Will the 
|> sensor fail suddenly or should I expect a slow loss of drive-
|> ability?
|> -- 


Mark... the typical failure mode of Ox sensors is a slow degradation
in it's response time to changing Ox concentrations... typical
symptoms:

	1. Engine surging while at speed (mixture being richened, and
	then leaned).
	2. Poor fuel milage (computer tends to err on the rich side
	when sensors start to go).
	3. Poor quality idle - sometimes - sensor indicates lean mixture
	and computer richen's it up...

Most Ox sensors will last beyond what the manufacturer specs them at..
but to really test them - you need a accurate low impedence voltmeter
capable of reading 0-1vdc.. and the manual. Basically, a correctly
cfuntioning Ox sensor will put out between .2 and .75 vdc on a correctly
tuned engine at idle. The output should fluctuate (pulse).. about +/- .4v
about once a second. The pulsing rate should increase with engine speed...
the sensor should respond quickly to an induced vacuum leak (pull the
dipstick out a bit while the engine is running)....

BUT... if they recommend replacing it, and you think maybe you should..
do it. - BTW - in most cases, only a catastrophic failure of the sensor
will be seen in the engine diagnostic codes.. slow operation is not
indicated.

Don Eilenberger (dje@sword.bellcore.com)