HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: bx711@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey L. Cook)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Looking for sharpening stuff
Date: 13 Oct 92 17:34:13 GMT
Article-I.D.: usenet.1bf1alINNasa
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


I'm interested in using the chisel/plane sharpening method
described in the March/April 1990 issue of FWW.  I'm looking for
a place where I can buy 4000 and 8000 grit water stones, and
nagura stones.

My Trend-Lines and Woodworker's Supply catalogues have 6000 grit
stones, but not the 4000 or 8000.  Any suggestions for a good
source of these items?  Is there a good source for sharpening
accessories in general?

----------------------------------------------------------------
Jeff Cook                          Jeff.Cook@FtCollinsCO.NCR.com
bx711@cleveland.FreeNet.Edu             72506.237@compuserve.com
                                          Compuserve:  72506,237
----------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Table saw blade guard usage
Date: 13 Oct 92 21:04:01 GMT
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Distribution: na
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated

"Ron Sands" writes
> I was compelled to write this in response to a user who wrote
> 
>    "I do not use the blade guard (does anyone?)."
> 
> First, let me assure you I do use the blade guard ALWAYS after the lesson
> taught to me by a new Delta 10" tilting arbor saw that replaced a rather
> docile Rockwell. {...tale deleted...}
> I would strongly advise anyone to always use the guard on whatever power tool
> you have and if you have an older model without it, buy or make some sort of
> alternative.  No one is going to call you sissy for using it but I'll bet
> they'll think you pretty stupid if you tell them how you lost three fingers
> because you were too macho to use the guard.


First, I agree with Ron that one should use a blade guard.

However, I disagree that the reasoning behind it is some macho thing - it's 
more of a practical result of standard equipment blade guards that often get
in the way, cannot be used for some cuts, and reduce visibility. 

Anyone who's had a piece of wood hang up on a misalgined splitter, or had 
a piece shaped such that one of the guard's sides would jam and not rise 
up, or couldn't get the rip fence close enough to the blade without hitting
the guard, or wanted to make a part way cut and couldn't see the drawn limit
line through the metal guard, or couldn't back the wood out because of the
antikickback pauls, or had a cutoff rip jam between the kickback pauls and
the splitter, or who cuts a lot of grooves and repeatedly found themselves
installing and deinstalling the guard can sympathize with those who don't
use guards at all.

The answer, I feel, is what Ron suggests, to "buy or make some sort of 
alternative." I have an overarm guide on my tablesaw, similar to one made
by Delta (called the Uniguard) or Biesemeyer. I have a rising splitter 
behind the blade that works for all cuts with the standard blade, and is
thick enough to do some real good in preventing the wood from closing down
on the rear teeth. I recommend this kind of setup strongly. In "The Workshop 
Book" there are several tablesaw guides, mostly homemade, shown and discussed.  
If you don't now use a guard you should definitely check it out.

Don't be a Normite: Use your guards. If you think tablesaw guards aren't 
practical you should rent the two tapes by Jim Cummins, available from 
Taunton Press called "Small Shop Tips and Techniques." He uses guards for
all his cuts - and mostly the stock guards. He rips narrow boards, does 
steep angled crosscuts, bevel cuts, etc. Puts Norm to shame. 

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
"And remember this - there's no more important safety rule than to wear
these: safety glasses."
From: guido@blink.att.com (Guido Bertocci)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Carbide blades, favorites?
Date: 15 Oct 92 20:12:19 GMT
Organization: AT&T

Thanks for the past help on where to get blades sharpened.
With my feeble RAS they have to be sharp.

I'm interested in hearings peoples opinions of different saw blades.
One specific area of interest is blades for cutting furniture grade
3/4 inch plywood.

I just got a Freud LU87 Thin Kerf rip/combo which works very well
for ripping oak on my 1.5 SDHP Sears POS RAS (1.5 Semi Deceased-Horse Power
Piece of S... Radial Arm Saw. What can I say, I made another mistake in my 
younger days and I'm hoping that it blows up soon so that I'll get 
motivated to replace it with a nice table saw).
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jims@bnr.ca (Jim Spallin)
Subject: Re: How do I bend an oak 4x4?
Reply-To: 1596118@x400gate.bnr.ca
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd., Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 07 Oct 92 16:20:28 GMT

In article <1992Oct6.223457.16821@unislc.uucp>, kjk@unislc.uucp (Kirt Krammer) writes:
|> From article <dnsurber.718036807@node_26400>, by dnsurber@lescsse.jsc.nasa.gov (Douglas N. Surber):
|> > 
|> > I want to make two curved 4" diameter beams, 80" long. They will have a
|> > smooth circular arc 4" high in the center relative to the ends. If I
|> > could remember enough geometry I would tell you what the radius of the
|> > bend was. I would like to use white oak. Any suggestions would be
|> > welcome.
|> > 
|> 
|> You might consider cutting the curve you want out of a single, straight
|> 4x4 using a bandsaw.  Then glue the two pieces back-to-back to form a 
|> curved beam of perfect uniformity.  The only waste is the sawdust.
|> 
|>           4"
|>       ____________           _____________
|>      |   \        |          \        |   \        
|>      |            |           \       |    \
|>      |     \      |            \      |     \
|>      |            |             \     |      \
|>      |       |    |              |    |       |
|>  80" |   A      B |   --->       |  B |   A   |
|>      |       |    |              |    |       | 
|>      |            |             /     |      / 
|>      |     /      |            /      |     / 
|>      |            |           /       |    / 
|>      |___/________|          /________|___/ 
|> 
|>          ^
|>          |
|>     Cut on dotted line.
|> 

This thread has spurred many interesting replies which gets the mind ticking.

On an aside note, why do you need the curved beams?  In the past when
building something that required work beyond my abilities I looked for
other options.  If you are worried about making the beam round, why not 
opt for a different shape that you may feel more comfortable with, i.e. 
square with rounded edges, get the largest round over bit you can find??
Then agin, that may not be an option.

-- 
Jim Spallin, (613)765-2581
Opinions expressed are my own, although others are free to share them
From: mglacy@lamar.ColoState.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: nailing w/o splitting
Date: 12 Oct 92 20:31:49 GMT
Organization: Colorado State University, Fort Collins, CO  80523

In article <WOODWORK%92101214190202@IPFWVM.BITNET> JM01@SWTEXAS.BITNET writes:
>I'm getting ready to nail some 3/4" lattice onto the base of my deck--each
>slat is 3/8" thick.  However, I'm a little worried about splitting the lattice
>by hammering the nails through.  I've seen folks dull the tips of nails by
.....etc.

Yes, this trick works.  I often used to tap the nail on a concrete surface.
It works, supposedly, because a dulled tip tends to punch through fibers
of the grain, rather than wedging them apart.  Another trick for pre-
venting a nail from wedging the grain apart is based on the fact that
the cross section of the point of a nail is elliptical (roughly), rather
than circular. (Look carefully at a nail point, particularly a finish
nail.  The major axis of the ellipse is about 2x as long as the minor
axis. )  You can take advantage of this by orienting the nail so that
the long axis of the ellipse is perpendicular to the direction of
the grain. This, too, will tend to make the nail punch through, rather
than wedge the grain.

A caveat:  Neither of these methods is foolproof.  They simply will
lower the probability that you split the grain.
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-==-=-=-=
Mike Lacy, Sociology Dept.      CSU and I have a deal: We don't take
Colo. State Univ.               responsibility for one another's opinions.
Fort Collins CO 80523           voice (303) 491-6721
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: finkej@ts.its.rpi.edu (Jon E. Finke)
Subject: Grizzley Bandsaws
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 15:30:04 GMT

In article <9OCT199210570085@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov> kimnach@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov (GREG KIMNACH) writes:
>Based on the net discussions, I think it is a good idea to stay away from 
>Grizzly's bandsaws.  However, because I own a Grizzly shaper, jointer, and

I have the 16" Grizzley bandsaw, and I am very happy with it.  I have had
it for about 3 years now, it and it gets much more use than my Sears RAS
and Makita miter saw.  I had to file a few rough edges off of some of
the knobs, but other than that, it works well.

I expect a Delta would be nicer.  I recall from high school using a Delta 
bandsaw, and it was easy to clean as the blade guards were hinged, with 
the Grizzley, you need to unscrew two large knobs.  I haven't used a Delta
BandSaw in over 15 years, so I can't really compare the two models.

One thing that earned Grizzley a lot of respect in my book, was over a year
after I bought the saw, Grizzley sent me a new owner's manual.  They had
been rewriting some of the manuals, and sent me the revised manual.  

One feature I would recommned for any bandsaw, is the rip fence.  I use mine
-- 
Jon Finke                              finkej@rpi.edu
Senior Network Systems Engineer        USERB239@RPITSMTS.BITNET
Information Technology Services        518 276 8185 (voice)
Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute       518 276 2809 (fax)
From: donb@crash.cts.com (Donald Bowen)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Gustav Strickley (sp?) Designs
Date: 8 Oct 92 19:15:28 GMT
Organization: CTS Network Services (crash, ctsnet), El Cajon, CA


	There are several books out about Craftsman designs.  The style
is also called Arts and Crafts and Mission Oak.  Stickly published a 
newsletter called the "Craftsman".  Several of the books are reprints
of his most popular designs from that magazine.

	The Arts and Crafts movement started in England as a counter point
to the heavily oranmented designs of the late 1800s.  The idea was based
around simple designs and home craftsmanship.  The Roycraft name was a
big player.  Frank Loydd Wright(sp?) based some of his early designs on
the Craftsman ideas.  Greene and Greene in Pasadana CA were so heavily
into the style that when tastes changess they were unable to follow.

	I have a couple of books on Stickly.  I will post the names 
later.  I also hope to get another one this afternoon at the book store.


	DonB
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 13 Oct 1992 09:30:32 EST
From:         Bill Alexander <ALEX@NKI.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Yep, wood does move!

(Re: Wood movement in pine...)
>
>>It is also possible that the pine you used hadn't been properly dried.
>>This is common in stud lumber, for instance.
>
If that was the case, wouldn't I have had *less* movement this summer when
the weather got humid, as the wood was already moist? Since the box survived
the dry winter months without any noticable shrinkage, I  assume the wood
the adequately dry when the box was constructed.

Regarding another comment on allowing for movement in using grain direction,
etc., it seems to me that no matter how you slice it, a mortise and tenon
(e.g., a rail joining a stile) is always going to give you a joint with
grain running in two directions. My real question is, is there no way to
keep this corner flush, as when contructing frame and panel doors?

Thanks to all who replied to my original query.

*****************************************************
* Bill Alexander                                    *
* Nathan Kline Institute for Psychiatric Research   *
* Orangeburg, NY                    ALEX@NKI.BITNET *
*****************************************************
From: jfarmer@cs.utk.edu (JOHN FARMER)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Comparisons of metalworking machinery
Date: 16 Oct 92 17:09:51 GMT
Organization: Computer Science Dept, University of Tennessee, Knoxville
Summary: rec.metalworking exists, sorta

In article <1992Oct8.195140.1090@u.washington.edu> kenm@daffy.cac.washington.edu () writes:
>For woodworking machinery, the consensus (and my experience) is that
>	[deleted so my news reader will pass my article...]
>
>woodworking machinery. So, any advice or experience about small mill/
>drills or lathes?
>
>apologies: I would ask rec.metalworking if it existed

You might try asking in trial.rec.metalworking.  This group exists,
but does not get alot of notice (due to being a "permenant" trail group
I guess...:^>).  There has been some discussion about going through the
effort to get it into the rec hierarchy but the last I heard was that 
noone had "volunteered"/drafted into doing it...

Anyway, some of the people here post there, but mostly it splits
into the blacksmiths, jewelry makers, and some home machinists.

Hint, why don't some of the people that have fixed (oops "enhanced" :^>)
their woodworking machines repost the info there?

John T.

-- 
John T. Farmer, Jr.					jfarmer@cs.utk.edu
Full-time Daddy, Part-time Grad Student,
Full-time wage slave, Wood butcher when I can.
From: stevep@lugh.se.hou.compaq.com (Steve Pinn)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re:      Re: Biscuit Joiners
Date: 7 Oct 92 13:33:28 GMT
Organization: Compaq Computer Corporation

In article <9210061908.AA05769@edwards-scy.af.mil>,         "Jim Johnson 7-9535 (6518 TS/EN)" <jjohnson@EDWARDS-SCY.AF.MIL> writes:
|>       Related to this, does anyone know what "NORM" uses on NYW?
|> 
|>       James G. Johnson
|>       Standard Disclaimer


James, I believe he uses an ELU - Steve
From: tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How do I bend an oak 4x4? (rounding it afterwards)
Date: 7 Oct 92 22:36:13 GMT
Organization: A.I. Chem Lab, University of Arizona

In article <1992Oct7.203148.17635@cs.brown.edu> jfh@cs.brown.edu (John F. Hughes) writes:

>               At one end of the box, there's a little stove thingy. It 
>boils water, which is run through radiator hose into the steam box, 
>where it immediately condenses (sigh).

>Note: if you want to work on more steaming the next day, you leave the box on
>overnight, so that you don't waste the hours re-heating it.

Gosh, I hadn't realized how fortunate my own design is, until I read the 
problems with this design.   I made the box out of 1" by 8"s,  with a hole in
the middle.  Then I took a 20 gallon barrel 3/4 filled with water, 
propped it up on a few bricks, built a nice fire under it, and when teh steam 
was rushing out I plopped the steam box over the filling hole.  Sure, there
was some condensation, but I had enough steam that I had solid streams coming
out the ends.   I go through about 10 gallons or more of water an hour,
but I just scoot the box over, put in another three or four gallons with
a hose, and in a few nminutes it's boilin again.

I guess brute force has some advantages, and I didn't even know it 
this time *smile*.
From: sjc@cs.purdue.EDU (Steve Chapin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: LOOKING FOR KITS TO BUILD CHILDRENS CHAIRS AND TABLES
Date: 16 Oct 92 03:22:40 GMT
Followup-To: rec.woodworking
Organization: Department of Computer Science, Purdue University

}} In article <1411@tekgen.bv.tek.com> robertj@tekgen.bv.tek.com (Robert Jaquiss) writes:
}} 
}} 	I am looking for sources for kits to build childrens chairs and tables.
}} As these chairs will be used in a classroom, I want something that will be 
}} strong and durable.  Thank you.

Aha!  A perfect chance for me to plug the plan archive.  No, it
doesn't have any plans for this in it (as a matter of fact it doesn't
have any plans at all, so SEND ME SOME!).  But I am updating the list
of Woodsmith plans (i.e. an index to the Woodsmith plans available).

Volume 10, Issue 56 of woodsmith has plans for a Kid's table and chair
set.  The blurb says:

"This set is designed for kids age 2 to 7 years.  (It can also be
scaled up for the older kids.)  It's made with knock-down connectors,
so the set can be disassmbled and folded flat."  (hardware kit
available)

The archive is at ftp.cs.purdue.edu, in directory pub/sjc/woodworking.

sjc@cs.purdue.edu               Steve Chapin           Today's Grammar Lesson:
          Did you use yew boughs to make the bows to shoot the ewes?

                      Beef:  Real food for a dead planet.
From: pauls@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Paul Stafford)
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 15:48:22 GMT
Subject: Re: Need Advice On Outdoor Wooden Door
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Rosa, CA
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

 I just heard about a product for gym floors. It is evidently one of the 
 hardest finishes you can get on wood. You might try that.
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Sun, 11 Oct 1992 19:12:20 EST
From:         FABY000 <FABY@NMUMUS.BITNET>
Subject:      Wood selection and purchase

I purchase cherry from a furniture maker and pick the pieces I need for
a project.  It may seem a good price at 100 ft but if you cannot select
the wood you want and if you do not have a project in mind it could be a
waster of money.Sapwood can be a problem as well.  I cannot recall the
grading system but the cherry from my source is a very good grade and
still I need to pick through the stack.  Knots tend to be more numerous
too.  My advice is to pay the higher price for cherry and select
carefully. Roger Barry
Xref: sparky rec.woodworking:6920 misc.wanted:8920 nj.wanted:788
From: rrf@cbnewsj.cb.att.com (robert.r.forster)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,misc.wanted,nj.wanted
Subject: used bandsaw wanted
Keywords: central new jersey
Date: 9 Oct 92 14:05:55 GMT
Followup-To: poster
Distribution: nj
Organization: AT&T


     Used bandsaw wanted.
     For home craft/hobbiest.
     Good condition in central New Jersey.
 
 
		   
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
 Rob Forster  AT&T Bell Laboratories, Lincroft, NJ  908-576-3051
          AT&T mail =  attmail!rforster
              UUCP  =  att!pegasus!rrf 
           Internet =  rrf@pegasus.att.com
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM (Chip Coffin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How do I bend an oak 4x4? (rounding it afterwards)
Date: 8 Oct 1992 00:06:23 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems
Distribution: world
Reply-To: coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: surfin

Modulus of elasticity for dry wood isn't valid for steamed wood.

When green oak is steamed, it bends just great.  As I said,
We steamed 2x3 (dimentioned) oak around a 2.5" radius.  No problem and 
the pieces didn't spring back.

But these were Master boat builders doing this who had done it many times
before.


chip

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bds@mbunix.mitre.org (Smith)
Subject: Re: help: wood movement in design
Keywords: design, wood movement
Organization: The MITRE Corporation, Bedford, MA
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 14:52:31 GMT

In article <6121@dove.nist.gov> wack@ariel.ncsl.nist.gov (John Wack) writes:
>
>This is a query for advice on accounting for wood movement in a small
>piece of furniture I'll be building soon.  The piece itself is a small
>bookcase/end-table unit - well, I don't know what the piece is typically
>called but here's the description: 2 sides and a back, the sides about
>10" x 22" high, the back about 12" x 22".  There is a large drawer in
>the lower front that creates a lower shelf, and then a shelf again near 
>the top.  Everything will be out of solid 3/4 cherry.  The grain will be
>running vertically on the sides and back.
>
>The part I'm having some difficulty with is the wood movement for the 
>back.  The first question is: provided I use my usual finish which is
>a mixture of tung oil/poly and I finish all sides, is it still necessary
>to account for wood movement?  Hopefully no, but my guess is yes.  The
>back will expand and contract horizontally, making the piece either more
>wide or more narrow.  How does one account for that?  Would using a joint
>such as a tongue and groove down the middle of the back (and not glueing 
>it) be the way to go?  Is there some more elegant solution?  
>
>John Wack


Yes, the wood will expand and contract with changes in absolute
himidity.  Using a joint of some type that allows movement is almost
required.  Look at shiplap joints or tongue and groove.  If you use
multiple vertical boards, each abou;t 6 inches wide, you should allow
about 1/8" between each board for movement.  You can make it prettier
by using a couple of raised panels if you want.

Barry
From: wilson@schaefer.math.wisc.edu (Bob Wilson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta contractor's saw
Date: 7 Oct 92 19:55:32 GMT
Organization: Univ. of Wisconsin Dept. of Mathematics

DAVID FARR <dfarr@ASRR.ARSUSDA.GOV> writes:

>I asked Delta about the alignment of the slots with the blade.  This is
>a factory setting.  If the saw does not meet the manufactures
>specifications then you will have to return saw to Delta for realignment.

>Dave Farr    DFARR@ASRR.ARSUSDA.GOV    301-5045274
It would certainly be a lot easier to follow Duginske's instructions
in "Tuning your tablesaw" than to bundle up a contractor's saw and
ship it off!
Bob Wilson
wilson@math.wisc.edu
From: boykin@gte.com (Joseph Boykin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Planer Recommendations
Date: 15 Oct 92 14:53:58 GMT
Reply-To: boykin@gte.com
Organization: GTE Laboratories

OK, with all the recent talk about *why* to own a planer
how about a discussion on *which* planer to buy.

jb
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: doshay@ursa.arc.nasa.gov (David Doshay)
Subject: Re: Table saw blade guard usage
Organization: NASA-Ames Biocomputation Center
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 20:54:21 GMT

I use the splitter and anti-kickback pawls, but not the (not so) clear
plastic blade guard. I feel that I get essentially all the safety and
then I get to see where the blade is too.

David		doshay@soma.arc.nasa.gov

The thought police insist I tell you:
my thoughts, not NASA's
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: pmeyer@sedona.intel.com (Paul Meyer)
Subject: Wooden ball clock
Originator: pmeyer@sedona
Organization: Intel Corp., Chandler, Arizona
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 06:15:31 GMT

	I'm thinking of building a ball clock.  The kind where one ball
a minute is carried up to the top, is dropped, and rolls down into the
five-minute section.  When 5 balls build up in there, it tilts, four of
them roll back down the return chute, and one falls to the next level,
marked for every 5 minutes in the hour.  When the twelfth ball hits the
hour level, 11 roll away and the twelfth goes to the 12 hour level.  At
noon and midnight it makes quite a racket as 27 balls clatter their way
back to the return chute.

	I had one when I was a kid, made of plastic.  I want to try to
make one out of wood.  I have a few questions:

Does anybody know where I can get clean stainless steel 1/2 or 3/4" ball
bearings?  There may be some obvious local place to look, but I can't
think of one off hand.

What should I use to keep time? The plastic one had an arm on a motor
that rotated once a minute, carrying one ball to the top.  Where could I
find a motor that rotates at exactly 1 rpm, and can be adjusted faster
or slower depending on how it keeps time?

Any suggestions for good woods?  Stability isn't really a factor, just
strength and looks. 

	If anybody out there has any ideas, let me know.  Even better,
if anybody has tried something similar, I'd love any advice.

-- 
Paul Meyer

Intel, Corp.
5000 W. Chandler Blvd.
Chandler, AZ  85226
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking