HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: ostroff@Oswego.EDU (Boyd Ostroff)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Invisible Fencing
Date: 11 Sep 92 19:55:18 GMT
Reply-To: ostroff@oswego.Oswego.EDU (Boyd Ostroff)
Distribution: na
Organization: Instructional Computing Center, SUNY at Oswego, Oswego, NY

In article <1992Sep10.183323.5951@dg-rtp.dg.com> harrism@dg-rtp.dg.com writes:
>In article <SEG.92Sep8072913@cbncp7.ATT.COM>, seg@cbncp7.ATT.COM (Scott Gordon) writes:
>
>	I'd say my dog is in jeapordy by *not* being on the invisible fence.

A friend got one of these for their lab awhile ago.  It seemed to work
fine for a year or so.  Then they sold the house and moved.  A key
factor in closing the sale was the invisible fence, since the buyer
also had a large dog.  A month after the new owner moved in the dog
bolted the fence and was killed by a car.  Perhaps this was due to
lack of training, or maybe just another of life's cruel ironies....

.............................................................................
....Boyd Ostroff / Technical Director / SUNY Oswego Department of Theatre....
...............Voice: (315) 341-2987 /  Fax: (315) 341-3394..................
..............ostroff@oswego.oswego.edu / ostroff@cboard.UUCP................
From: burwell@parc.xerox.com (Becky Burwell)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Asea Washer?
Date: 9 Sep 92 20:21:28 GMT
Reply-To: burwell@parc.xerox.com (Becky Burwell)
Distribution: na
Organization: Xerox PARC

greg@netecom.com asks how much the Asea appliances cost.

In the Bay area, the washing machines are about $1175 for the simpler machine and
somewhere between $1325 and $1400 for the deluxe model.  The deluxe
model has a more powerful spin so can remove more water from the clothes.

The clothes dryers are $860 for the manual dryer that requires a vent
to over $1200 for the model that doesn't need to have an outside vent.

There are three models of dishwashers that seem to sell between $800 and
$950.  The most expensive model has features like a settable delay; you can
start the wash in 1 to 12 hours.  This model has a digital display.  The middle
model has these rubber feeling buttons and the least expensive model has dials
you can turn.  


   *becky*
From: mcnamara@vixvax.mgi.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Insulative window coverings
Date: 15 Sep 92 18:10:56 GMT
Organization: Management Graphics, Inc.


	I am looking for an insulative cover for some medium to large
windows.  The panels will be ~48"x48", and 48"x72".  So far I have looked
at Duette (sp), which manufactures a honeycomb-like structure in a
variety of sizes and colors.  These are OK, but not as insulative as I
would like, and somewhat more expensive as well (at least at my local
decorating place).  Looking for alternatives, mail-order places, books
on how to make, etc.

						Curt

****************************************************************************
Curt McNamara	(mcnamara@mgi.com)	|"Time flies like an arrow, but
Mgmt. Graphics, Inc.			| fruit flies like an apple."
1401 E. 79th St.			|	anon.
Mpls., MN    55425			|
****************************************************************************
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: hale@btree.uucp (Bob Hale)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 92 19:55:52 GMT
Organization: Brooktree Corporation
Subject: Re: Home security tips from a burglar
Summary: 
Followup-To: 
Distribution: usa
Organization: Brooktree Corporation, San Diego
Keywords: 

In article <14579@gazette.bcm.tmc.edu> so690561@mbcr.bcm.tmc.edu (Susan Elizabeth Olson) writes:
>...so much for the "no gun" solution request of an earlier poster - I'm
>interested to see if anyone else out there comes up with other home
>security tips that don't involve the purchase of a weapon.

Secure your windows.

I was amazed at how easy it is to get through a standard sliding
glass window when I had the local police do a security audit at
our place.

For our windows, the fix was easy - a few lag bolts installed in
the top channel of each window.

Also, consider getting the glass tinted.  Not only does this
minimize heat gain/loss, it also makes it difficult for the thief
to determine what possessions you have to steal.  

Keep the curtains drawn when the interior is brighter than the
exterior; this also helps prevent seeing in.

Don't leave your garage door open when you don't have to.  A
potential thief may be attracted by things in your garage, or
may study the access to the house from the garage.

Block off any garage windows so that a potential thief can't
tell whether or not there are cars in the garage.  No cars would
suggest that no one is home.

Bob Hale                                      ...!ucsd!btree!hale
...!btree!hale@ucsd.edu                       ...!ucsd!btree!hale@uunet.uu.net


Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: tjones@harriett.ncsa.uiuc.edu
Subject: RE:  Removal of "very" old linoleum tiles
Organization: Nat'l Ctr for Supercomp. Appl.
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 1992 00:21:03 GMT

I am trying to revamp the attic in the house.  The tiles have probably 
been in there for the past twenty years as there is a multitude of sunken 
rings from furniture that has been up there.  Can anyone tell me how I 
should go about removing the tiles and how do I fix the "squeaky" areas 
that are underneath?  Is this a major job that requires only "skilled" 
professionals (shudder)?

Thanks in advance for any assistance.

I have chosen to be incognito for personal as well as obvious reasons ... 
I'm supposed to be working! ! ! ! ! !

            
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: noujaim@hsi.com (Nazih G. Noujaim)
Subject: Smell in Ice from Ice Maker
Organization: 3M Health Information Systems, Wallingford CT
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 17:10:01 GMT


I know that I've seen this subject brought up before but I don't remember
seeing any resolutions to this problem.

I have a GE fridge side by side with the Icemaker. I noticed a smell in the
ice. I emptied the ice thinking that maybe the ice is old but the smell
remained in the new ice and I don't know what to do to get rid of the smell.

If you have any suggestions, can you E-mail back.

thanks in advance

Nazih Noujaim

-- 
----------- noujaim@hsi.com -----------------------         333 M   M
--------------{uunet, yale}!hsi!noujaim -----------          33 MM MM
----------------Nazih G. Noujaim ------------------         333 M M M   
------------------Wallingford, Conn. 06492 --------  3M-Health  Info.  Systems 
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: vlad@cae.prds.cdx.mot.com (Vladimir Gershkovich)
Subject: Re: FLAT for SALE in Russia ( in Magadan )
Organization: none
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 20:39:58 GMT

abbott@priory.enet.dec.com (Robert Abbott) writes:


>In article <ABNQChgaH6@kenext.msk.su>,  daniel@kenext.msk.su (Finogenov Daniel Victorovich) writes...
>>          Dear Sears.
>>     I'm offer to you a flat for sale.
>>     Location: centre of Magadan - the capital of Russian Nord - East ( near
>>        Alaska ).
>>     Brief:
>>        2 rooms, kitchen, toilet & bathroom, pantry.
>>     Further details ( particulars ) can be obtained on request.
>>     The price is 7900 $ and nothing more for cash.
>>     I'll be happy to discuss the matter with you.
>>                Yours faithfully Daniel Finogenov.

>Care to inform us what the average seasonal temperatures are
>in lovely downtown Magadan? 

>------------------------
>Robert K. Abbott
>abbott@tps.enet.dec.com          

Who cares about 'the average seasonal temperatures' in lovely
Magadan if you have a **lovely** 'toilet & bathroom' and
you can spare **JUST** $7900 hard earned American bucks to live
in the 'capital of Russian North-East'?!?! :)

P.S. Boy, I wish I could spend $7900 for a 2-bedroom condo
	 to live in the capital of **American** North-East - BOSTON !!!

-----------------------------
Vlad Gershkovich
vlad@codex.com
vlad@codex.prds.cdx.mot.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: rogerv@sco.COM (Roger Vortman)
Subject: Re: House square footage- how to measure?
Organization: The Santa Cruz Operation, Inc.
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 19:43:23 GMT


>>What's the traditional way of measuring a house's living area?
>>Is it the sum of the area of each individual room, not counting any
>>basement?  Or is it the area calculated using the outside perimeter of
>>the house?

>>Real estate agents seem to be getting away from this method of using
>>square footage as a metric of comparing houses.  If they clearly explained
>>their method of calculating the living area, why wouldn't they want to
>>use it?

The method that I am familiar with is to use outside perimeter measurements
to compute the living area for real estate purposes.  Certain areas are
not counted as living area, such as closets, which makes sense.  What
doesn't make sense is that while bugs, etc. may live in your walls, you
can't so why count their dimensions in the living area.  My guess (as
usual, probably not correct) is that it causes minimal disruption for
the people living in the house, as the measurements are done outside once
the appraisor has made a map of the floor plan of the house.  If this is
the case, and it is one of the few times when the reason to do it is not
directly to inflate the measurements, then it is one of the few cases
where something is done in real estate for the convenience of a homeowner.

-Roger
From: egreen@east.sun.com (Ed Green - Pixel Cruncher)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Hurricane Andrew's effect on building
Date: 14 Sep 1992 17:25:53 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, RTP, NC
Distribution: world
Reply-To: egreen@east.sun.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: laser.east.sun.com

In article 20588@Happy-Man.com, josh@Happy-Man.com (Joshua_Putnam) writes:
>In <18qrtaINN64e@sixgun.East.Sun.COM> egreen@east.sun.com (Ed Green - Pixel Cruncher) writes:
>
>>Blaming natural disaster victims for living in a "dangerous" area is
>>idiotic.

>If people choose to live in "dangerous" areas, I don't see
>why I should be expected to pay for their skimping on
>contruction standards. 

Every area's building codes are designed for reasonable and expected
natural disasters.  To build houses that do not conform to the codes is
already illegal.

The posting I responded to was blaming people for thier choice to live
in FL.

---
Ed Green, former Ninjaite |I was drinking last night with a biker,
  Ed.Green@East.Sun.COM   |and I showed him a picture of you.  I said,
DoD #0111  (919)460-8302  |"Go on, get to know her, you'll like her!"
 (The Grateful Dead) -->  |It seemed like the least I could do...
From: srj@key.COM (Scott R. Johnson)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Thermostat question
Date: 10 Sep 92 05:19:33 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Advanced Systems, Fremont CA

In article <1992Sep9.233414.13133@nas.nasa.gov>, blake@wk60.nas.nasa.gov (Matthew W. Blake) writes:
> 
> 1) What features would you suggest?
>    (timer to come on before getting up, etc)

You want the timer.  Boy, do you want the timer.

> 2) Suggested Brands (or to avoid)?

I went low-ball after hearing about Honeywell Chronotherms (the
best) for over $100.  I found a Robertshaw at Price Club for $19.99.  
It has 4 setbacks (meaning it can change the temperature 
4 times) and is electronic.  It has a readout that tells the current 
temperature, and can run both a heater and A/C (should you add
one someday).

It has one flaw that turned out to be a limitation that I could deal
with-- it makes you set the same temperature for some settings
Example-- setting 1 and 3 are morning and evening, setting 2 is
"away during the day", and setting 4 is night.  Settings 2 and 4 are
independent; you can set a different temperature in each, for M-F,
Saturday, and Sunday.  Settings 1 and 3 have to have the same 
temperature.  I found this to be a hassle, but then it also helped
when I adjusted the default temperature for when we're home.

> 3) Are they easy to install?

Did mine in 15 minutes.

Overall, I think it's a good deal.  Robertshaw says it has to pay for
itself in 1 year (or some such) or they'll buy it back.





-- 
  --srj           A lunatic is merely a minority of one.
       o_O                                                            --Orwell
      =( ) =      ------------------------------------------------------------
        U   Ack!  Scott Johnson  Amdahl Adv. Sys. srj@key.amdahl.com  623-2333
From: hamilton@robin.rtp.dg.com (Eric Hamilton)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Painting radiators?
Date: 13 Sep 92 04:17:38 GMT
Organization: Data General Corporation, Research Triangle Park, NC

|> In misc.consumers.house, chris@endgame.gsfc.nasa.gov (Chris Shenton) writes:
|> 
|> >I've got an old hot-water (not steam) radiator system and am about to
|> >burn or sandblast off the old layers of paint. (Most are too big and
|> >heavy to consider lugging down the stairs).
|> >

Be aware that these mammoth heavy cast-iron radiators were often painted with
heavily leaded paint, in which case both burning and sandblasting are
seriously dangerous.

-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Eric Hamilton				+1 919 248 6172
Data General Corporation		hamilton@dg-rtp.rtp.dg.com
62 Alexander Drive			...!mcnc!rti!xyzzy!hamilton
Research Triangle Park, NC  27709, USA
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: jacobson@donnelley.com (Eric Jacobson)
Subject: Re: Little brown bugs
Organization: R. R. Donnelley & Sons Company, Lisle, Illinois
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 16:13:55 GMT

In article <1992Sep3.073613.1%rtsmv1.decnet@edwards-vax.af.mil> joffe%rtsmv1.decnet@edwards-vax.af.mil writes:
>
>	We are having a problem with little brown bugs that invade rice,
>flower, cereal, and any kind of grain products.  Does anyone have experience
>with these?

Yes.  I used to work in a bakery.  These little critters were always in the
fifty pound bags of flower.  A part of my responsibility was to sift the 
flower for these suckers before putting it into the bins.

>	Is there an organic method of getting rid of these?  If not, what would
>be the best kind of pesticide to use?

I guess what I did was an "organic method" but wouldn't work for the rice or
the cereal.  I also don't know if sifting is a sanitary approach since it would
seem that there may have been some hard to see bug droppings left behind.  But
I do know that this bakery has an excellent reputation.  I still frequent it
fifteen years later, and have never gotten sick eating the goods.  Kind of like
the pizza place I worked at while attending college.  I still eat the pizza
there even though I know they had a minor cockroach problem.
-- 
Eric Jacobson - jacobson@rrdtc.donnelley.com - Lisle, Illinois | Taste, chew,
         I express my own (not my employer's) opinions.        | _and_ enjoy!
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Built in bookcase kits?
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 92 20:59:51 GMT
Keywords: Where can I find some?

In article <1992Sep15.192528.15416@crd.ge.com> meltsner@crd.ge.com writes:

>Particle board covered with laminate might look great, but I've had
>bad experiences with the long-term creep of particle board.  After six
>months or so, heavily loaded shelves will bow. 

Besides having very little strength in this direction, I'm told that most
particle boards outgas formaldehyde. I'm not adamant about keeping the
stuff out of my house, but if I'm given a choice between particle board
and plywood, I'll buy plywood every time. About the only advantage that
particle board has as far as I know is that the surface tends to be
flatter and more perfect.

Among the many disadvantages of particle board are 
  a. It's heavier.
  b. It's much harder on your tools.
  c. More susceptible to water damage.
  d. Won't hold screws or nails as well.

patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | I pity the man who don't drink, 'cause when he
George Patterson -  | gets up in the morning, that's as good as he's
                    | going to feel the whole day.
                    |                             Joe E. Brown
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: wait to finish the deck?
From: gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston)
Date: Sun, 06 Sep 92 21:27:14 CDT
Organization: Garys' Home for Obsolete Computers

jkim@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com (Jae HuKim) writes:

> when i bought lumber to build my deck, the guy at the lumber store 
> (when i asked him) suggested that i wait a year after the deck is built 
> before putting any kind of finish on it.
> 
> he said that when the wood dries, it will accept the stain/seal better
> and we can go longer before having to refinish.
> 
> this makes sense to me, so i thought that i'd wait until next year before 
> sanding the deck (redwood) and finishing it.

It would seem to me that if you build it in the spring, and let it dry
through the summer, then early fall would be the best time to finish
it. Once the late fall/winter storms come, it'll get re-soaked, as it
will during spring. And really, I think a couple of months would be
adequate.

Gary Heston, at home....
gary@cdthq.uucp
From: bsmith@stake.DaytonOH.NCR.COM (ROBERT SMITH)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Best Hardware Store
Date: 3 Sep 92 12:12:46 GMT
Organization: Stakeholder Relations, NCR Corp in Dayton,OH

<2chn3fc.mccrate@netcom.com> <1992Aug31.194847.7417@porthos.cc.bellcore.com>
Reply-To: bsmith@stake.DaytonOH.NCR.COM (ROBERT SMITH)
Organization: Stakeholder Relations, NCR Corp in Dayton,OH

The best hardware store I remember is Deck's Hardware in Ambler, PA (suburban
Phila -- where I grew up).  A rambling bldg with lots of floors and side rooms
with all sorts of unusual items.  They had wooden floors, which they cleaned
by spreading sawdust.  They could answer your questions on just about
anything.  It seems like my father took me there almost every Saturday.

There aren't many places like that around, anymore.
-- 
Bob Smith
E-mail => Robert.D.Smith@daytonoh.ncr.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis)
Subject: Re: Noise from street
Followup-To: misc.consumers.house
Organization: OSF Research Institute
Date: 9 Sep 92 17:28:54

In article <sturges-090992114619@158.185.20.244> sturges@master.lds-az.loral.com (Jim Sturges) writes:

   ...Our home backs up onto a [sometimes] busy street which promises
   to become noisier. We are trying to find quick-fix and long-term
   solutions....I am reluctant to make a heavy investment into sound
   treatments for windows/walls unless I have some idea that they have
   a prayer of working....

The very first thing to check is that the windows are airtight around
the sides.  Check existing weatherstripping and repair or upgrade it.
Even small holes will let in annoying amounts of noise.  You might
want to check the caulking on the outside, too (around windows and
doors).

The next thing is to reduce the amount of reverberation within the
room.  Use lots of sound-absorbing materials such as heavy curtains
(velvet is good), rugs, heavy wall hangings, upholstered furniture,
etc.  These are all effective solutions, but require a particular
style of decorating.  If you can find any you like (maybe impossible),
you could consider flocked wallpaper or that special kind of carpeting
made to be installed on walls (I don't know what it's called).

Another attack on the problem is through `diversionary tactics', i.e.
tricks to fool your brain into hearing less noise.  Background music
or steady mechanical sounds (air conditioner) mask other, more
annoying noises such as stop-and-start traffic.

From here on, things get very expensive.

Sound transmission through glass can be reduced by going to
triple-layer systems or vacuum between panes, but all this is
expensive and only marginally effective (it reduces transmission, but
does not reduce the sounding-board effect of glass for whatever sounds
get transmitted by the frame). 

For the walls, effective steps are expensive.  Beyond what you already
have, you could put on another layer of 5/8" sheetrock mounted on
resilient channel.  Actually installing this and painting it is not
horribly expensive, but you will also have to retrim all the doors and
windows, since the wall will now be about an inch further out.

Note that in general it is easier to reduce high-frequency than
low-frequency noise, and very low frequencies (such as truck rumbling)
is almost impossible to eliminate.

Good luck.

	-s
From: egreen@east.sun.com (Ed Green - Pixel Cruncher)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Hurricane Andrew's effect on building
Date: 15 Sep 1992 14:47:55 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, RTP, NC
Distribution: world
Reply-To: egreen@east.sun.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: laser.east.sun.com

In article 10160@cpqhou.compaq.com, thomasr@cpqhou.compaq.com (Thomas Rush) writes:
>In article <18qrtaINN64e@sixgun.East.Sun.COM> egreen@east.sun.com writes:
>>
>>Blaming natural disaster victims for living in a "dangerous" area is
>>idiotic.
>
>And the government using its power to take my money to pay for their
>choice of a place to live is stealing.  

No, it isn't.  It is taxation + federal disaster relief.  (unless
you're one of those libertarian.fruitcakes who equates all taxation
with stealing and all government with coersion, in which case we can
drop the whole discussion).
 
---
Ed Green, former Ninjaite |I was drinking last night with a biker,
  Ed.Green@East.Sun.COM   |and I showed him a picture of you.  I said,
DoD #0111  (919)460-8302  |"Go on, get to know her, you'll like her!"
 (The Grateful Dead) -->  |It seemed like the least I could do...

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: vinyl flooring sheets or tiles?
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 92 23:19:32 GMT

In article <15116@borg.cs.unc.edu> molnar@cygni.cs.unc.edu (Steven Molnar) writes:
>I'm wondering whether to use vinyl sheet flooring or 1 foot square tiles 
>to cover a kitchen floor in a renovation job.

Assuming you're talking about vinyl tiles (as opposed to real tile) I'd go
with sheet flooring.

>The tiles seem to be preferable in price and ease of installation (they're
>slightly more expensive per foot, but they result in less waste if you
>you have an irregular floorplan, like I do).

They're truly easier to install and there's less waste.

>How tightly do the tiles seal together.  I'm concerned about liquids seeping
>through the cracks and under the tiles.  Presumably there is a way to seal
>them.  Does anyone have experience with a tiled kitchen floor or other
>wisdom to impart?

You're wise to be concerned. They seal by virtue of the fact that the
joint between them is only a crack. In short, not well at all. I've
spent entirely too much time in older houses repairing the rot and other
damage caused by spills getting under tiles to ever consider putting them
down in a kitchen or bath that I own. Modern glues, by the way, are
latex. If they get wet enough (which isn't very wet), the tiles come
up. Anyone who doubts this is invited over to my house to check out the
basement (I *thought* I was getting the asphalt based glue).

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | Americans are crazy. They drive on parkways
                    | and park in driveways.
                    |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------