HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: rcm@col.hp.com (hpctdfc)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Hoop House Kits
Date: 25 Jan 93 17:18:30 GMT
Organization: where?
NNTP-Posting-Host: hpctdfc.col.hp.com

Well, I did it.  I bought one of those Hoop House Greenhouse kits.
I got the 10X20 size - anybody else have one of these kits?  I
will probably start assembling it this weekend, weather and time
permitting.  If anybody can offer their good or bad experiences with
these kits, I'd sure like to hear about them before I dive in!

Rick "hope it helps my greenthumb" Myers

--
Rick Myers    rcm@col.hp.com
Information Technology Specialist
Hewlett-Packard
Network Test Division
Colorado Springs, CO
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: breland@cobweb.mcc.com (Mark A. Breland)
Subject: Re: Edible Flowers
Reply-To: breland@cobweb.mcc.com
Organization: MCC
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 15:21:36 GMT

In article 727641803@cunews, psmith@alfred.carleton.ca (Peter Smith) writes:
>Someone posted a message about edible flowers sometime ago.
>Unfortunately, I didn't think I was interested at the time, but have
>since changed my mind.

I heard somewhere that pansies are good.

---
Mark A. Breland - Microelectronics and Computer Technology Corporation (MCC)
Ada Fault Tolerance                               | voice:    (512) 338-3509
3500 West Balcones Center Drive                   | FAX:      (512) 338-3900
Austin, Texas 78759-6509   USA                    | internet: breland@mcc.com

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: dumic@cc.swarthmore.edu (Mark J. Dumic)
Subject: Guide to Scented Geraniums?
Followup-To: rec.gardens
Organization: Swarthmore College
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 16:00:58 GMT

I'm looking for a guide to the identification of Scented Geraniums species
and varieties.  Does anyone know of a guidebook along these lines?


--------------------------------------------------------------
Mark J. Dumic
Manager of Networking and Systems
Swarthmore College
500 College Avenue
Swarthmore, PA 19081
(215) 328-8511
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Edible Flowers
Date: 22 Jan 93 12:11:50 -0600
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

In article <C18At2.41K@news.cso.uiuc.edu>, l.j.z. <ljz57640@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu> writes:
> moroney@world.std.com (Michael Moroney) writes:
> 
>>Daylilies are edible.  The flower buds are sometimes used in Chinese food.
>>That's all I know.
>>-Mike
> 
> I hear Nasturtium is really good too.  Both the flowers and the leaves
> are edible.

rose
violet
borage
radish/mustard/broccoli/kale and other Brassicaceae
caper (generally eaten as pickled buds)

Kay
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: brokaw@flamingo.weeg.uiowa.edu (Pete Brokaw)
Subject: Re: lilac (Syringa) pruning
Keywords: lilac, pruning
Organization: Weeg Computing Center, University of Iowa, Iowa City, IA, USA
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 19:38:13 GMT

I have a similar situation (20 year old lilac bush, 15 feet tall, north
side of the house).  From talking to local nursery people, I've learned
that drastic pruning of lilacs will most likely interrupt the next year's
blooms.  Winter is a good time for the 1/3 cut.  If you're just trimming
the bush for shaping, try to cut right after the blooms are done--you stand
the best chance of blooms next year.

The question I didn't answer (and need to find out, too) is deciding what
to cut.  Should all of the suckers be cut to the ground?  Should the main
(oldest) branches be cut back to let the suckers take over?  Does the plant
need special attention after cutting back 1/3 (like special nutrients)?

Pete

In article <C1Evuw.EM4@acheron.uucp>, clarke@acheron.UUCP (Ed Clarke/10240000) writes:
|> I have a couple of lilacs that have been neglected since they were put in
|> (perhaps 20-30 years or more).  These are BIG suckers with lichens growing
|> on 'em, tall leggy, leaves only on the top.  Clearly, they need to be
|> pruned (dead branch came off last night and stripped some bark off too).
|> 
|> From "All About Pruning" (Ortho):
|> 
|> 	When to prune:  Dormant season or after flowering
|> 	How to prune: Rejuvenate neglected plants by cutting back one third
|> 		each year for three years or cut completely to the ground.
|> 		Remove faded flower heads to increase flowering.
|> 
|> Ok, is "Dormant season" now (winter)?  How do you prune main truncs?  It
|> is clearly different from just hacking off a branch since there's no
|> branch collar.  Can I really just slice it off at ground level or just
|> above?  What to do with the stub?
|> 
|> I LIKE lilacs, and I LIKE old things, I'd rather not kill these and replace
|> them.
|> 

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
"The secret to a long life is knowing when it's time to go."
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Pete Brokaw		Email: pete-brokaw@uiowa.edu
Weeg Computing Center	University of Iowa	Iowa City, IA 52242
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Granny Smith
From: bmoon@eis.calstate.edu (Bruce A. Moon)
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 14:14:18 GMT
Organization: Calif State Univ/Electronic Information Services

No, the Sunset Garden book lists the apple for zones 6-9 (among others).
You are zone 6 so you are on the edge of the acceptable range. i suspect
they may not do as well in the Northwest as here in California. I just
looked at a couple of Northwest tree nursery catalogs and neither lists
it, but it is very popular here in California.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: james@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (James White)
Subject: Re: Care and Feeding of Apple Trees
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 16:51:10 GMT
Reply-To: JamesWhite@vnet.ibm.com
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM Rochester

I dislike spraying my apple trees.  I'm not opposed to it, I just do not like
working with the stuff.  I have found that if I mix in my other hobby of home beer
making I get a halfway decent solution.  I hang glass cider jugs 1/4 full of
sludge from my beer making (yeast and other sediment) in the trees.  The moths
and flys crawl in and never come out.  It is amazing how many I catch and how
the apple yield improves.

-- 

James White 
Xref: sparky rec.gardens:9205 misc.consumers.house:17379
From: garyp@rmtc.paramax.com (Gary Palangian [RMTC/ISP])
Newsgroups: rec.gardens,misc.consumers.house
Subject: AutoDesk Landscaping Computer Program
Date: 26 Jan 93 00:40:02 GMT
Organization: Paramax Systems


Hey Now Everybody,

    AutoDesk, the AutoCAD people, have a computer program out
that assists you in doing home landscape design.  It is
about $40 retail and I saw it in a local hardware   Does
anyone have any experience with this program?  Is it
worth the money?

Party On...

Gary P.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: l.j.z. <ljz57640@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu>
Subject: Re: Edible Flowers
Originator: ljz57640@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 00:03:00 GMT

moroney@world.std.com (Michael Moroney) writes:

>Daylilies are edible.  The flower buds are sometimes used in Chinese food.
>That's all I know.
>-Mike

I hear Nasturtium is really good too.  Both the flowers and the leaves
are edible.

--L.


-- 
=============================================================
laura j zurawski---juniper@uiuc.edu---visualize whirled peas
=============================================================
From: gellmore@pearl.tufts.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: RE: Lilac pruning
Date: 25 Jan 93 19:23:58 GMT
Organization: Tufts University - Medford, MA

Lilacs sprout freely from suckers, so they CAN be mowed to the ground, but that
is going to look terrible. Neglected Lilacs not only get too tall to see any
flowers, but they also sprout so many whip-like suckers that there is little
air and light on the inside of the shrub to support balanced plant growth.

To prune (YES, winter is dormant season, get it done before March!), saw 
EVERY thing down EXCEPT 4 or 5 main trunks. That will get rid of the
excessive bushiness. Then on the remaining 4-5 main trunks, if growth
is too high, cut off the top on third. Yep, it'll look like a flat top, but
flowers will bloom from branches that begin to form this Spring.

Professionals keep those lilac shrubs low enough (lower than 10 feet) to give
their owners the chance to see the flowers. I keep mine at about feet.

Granted, when you mow off the top of your tree-like lilacs, you are going to
feel as though a mistake has been made. Trust me. If not, try pruning one, and
leave the others go. See which you prefer after a year of two.

The stubs will look pale now, but will darken with age. If you want, spray some
grey paint on the fresh cut, but its for your eyes, not the plant. Open wood
is better than any efforts to cover it.

Note that lilacs, like many woody plants, bloom heavy on ALTERNATE years.

Finally, what about cutting off wilted flowers to improve growth? Its not
worth the effort, provided you fertilize the plant a bit in the spring.
and fall. The idea is to cut off wilted flowers that are on their way
to making seeds, thereby saving resources that the plant would have put
into those seeds. Fact is, that seeds are made within 6 weeks of flowering, and
if you don't get the old flowers off within 3 weeks of flowering, you will have
lost any marginal advantage that might have been gained. My experience is that
the garden keeps me WAY too busy at Lilac flowering time, for me to snip off
spent flowers. But maybe I'm not devoted enough...

Good luck, and cut, cut, cut.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: kathleen@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Kathleen Much)
Subject: Re: perennials that don't like the heat
Keywords: perennial
Organization: Center for Advanced Study in the Behavioral Sciences
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 22:47:17 GMT

In article <1jo32eINN4br@aurora.engr.LaTech.edu> garyk@engr.latech.edu writes:

>Does anyone have experience with a perennial that did not make it
>through a southern summer?  We'd like to experiment with some
>varieties we don't see in the local nurseries; but if we hear of
>others' bad experience with a variety in the Deep South we'll 
> steer clear of it.  > > >

Peonies and lilacs hated Houston's hot, humid summers.  Carnations and
pinks can be grown as cool-season annuals, not as perennials.  Many
rhododendrons need colder winters than the Deep South has, but of
course azaleas do beautifully.

-- 
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Kathleen Much, Editor		|E-mail: kathleen@casbs.stanford.EDU
CASBS, 202 Junipero Serra Blvd.	|Phone: (415) 321-2052
Stanford, CA  94305		|Fax: (415) 321-1192
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: clarke@acheron.UUCP (Ed Clarke/10240000)
Subject: Re: Using fresh chicken manure
Reply-To: clarke@acheron.UUCP
Organization: Ciliophora Associates
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1993 15:03:53 GMT

In article <1993Jan19.184652.24517@nntpd.lkg.dec.com> Steve DiPirro,
|> >I got my hands on a little fresh chicken manure...about
|> >3/4 of a ton to be exact (I have a large garden), although right

Just curious, do you have any idea of what this is going to smell like
when it thaws?   Perhaps followups should be directed to alt.tasteless ...

That's too much to use all at once, you're going to need a lot of carbon
to match the nitrogen in the poopsicles.   Could you bury it and cover
it with something to keep them frozen?  They used to do this with ice
back before refrigeration came in.  Then you could get managable amounts
to add to your compost pile.

Good luck ... and I hope you have an understanding wife. ;-)

Ed Clarke
clarke@acheron.uucp
Xref: sparky rec.gardens:9232 misc.consumers.house:17433
From: garyp@rmtc.paramax.com (Gary Palangian [RMTC/ISP])
Newsgroups: rec.gardens,misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: AutoDesk Landscaping Computer Program
Date: 26 Jan 93 16:59:52 GMT
Organization: Paramax Systems

In article <1k3nq7INN2j9@hp-col.col.hp.com>, tvervaek@col.hp.com (Tom Vervaeke) writes:
|> 
|> Don't have a direct answer to that one. However, we're getting ready to
|> do some landscaping of our new home this spring and summer. Was looking
|> through the local yellow pages under Landscape Architects, not
|> Landscapers (we want to have someone give us design ideas first before
|> starting some work). One ad listed the person as follows:
|> 
|> 		 Guman/Hackworth Associates LTD
|> 
|> 		    Planning, Landscape Architecture
|> 		    Certified Irrigation System Design
|> 
|> 		      Rel 12 AutoCAD/LandCADD
|> 
|> 				     ^
|> 				     |
|> 
|> 				     Here's what I thought was
|> 				     interesting. Has anyone ever heard
|> 				     of LandCADD?
|> 

Hey Now,

    I think AutoCAD has a landscaping module that can be attached to
it.  The cost is around $500 for the landscaping module and is manufactured by
Autodesk.

Party On...


Gary P.
Xref: sparky rec.gardens:9238 misc.consumers.house:17438
From: clarke@watson.ibm.com (Ed Clarke)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens,misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: AutoDesk Landscaping Computer Program
Date: 26 Jan 93 20:25:26 GMT
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM

In article <1k3nq7INN2j9@hp-col.col.hp.com>, tvervaek@col.hp.com (Tom Vervaeke) writes:
|> 		    Planning, Landscape Architecture
|> 		    Certified Irrigation System Design
|> 		      Rel 12 AutoCAD/LandCADD
|> 				     Here's what I thought was
|> 				     interesting. Has anyone ever heard
|> 				     of LandCADD?

Yeah, my surveyor just upgraded his system.  $500 for the new release of
AutoCad and $500 for the LandCadd package upgrade.  One for each of his
machines.  $3000 worth of software upgrades ...

LandCadd is a surveying package that sits upon AutoCad (I think).  Bloody
expensive!
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: Bob Klebba <nicmad!klebba%astroatc.uucp@spool.cs.wisc.edu>
Subject: Re: I Bought Some Roses
Organization: Nicolet Instrument Corporation
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 18:03:02 GMT

In article <1jjliqINNfhv@transfer.stratus.com> Ken Koellner,
kvk@questor.sw.stratus.com writes:
>I grow both indoor and outdoor bonsai trees and also have grown
>flowers and herbs in pots and in a flower beds.  I've read a couple
>text on gardening in general.  I also have a bunch of supplies in a
>big box on the deck, potting soil, humus, peat, sand, pearlite,
>fertilizers, trowels, clippers, etc.  I have never done roses before
>though.  Can anyone give any tips?  Things like what ingredients to
>use for soil in what ratios, fertilizers, pesticides, etc?  Is there a
>FAQ for roses around here anywhere?  Can anyone recommend a good rose
>book?

Instead of growing hybrid teas in pots, have you thought about growing
miniature roses in pots?  They are infinitely more hardy and won't suffer
from dying back to the root stock like the grafted varieties do.  Of
course, you won't get the long slender stems for picking, but I wonder
whether you'll get long stems with the pot-bound roses anyway.  I realize
you've already bought some plants, but with your interest in bonsai, I
thought I'd suggest the minis.

Bob Klebba
Madison, Wisconsin, USDA zone 4
Inet: nicmad!klebba%astroatc.uucp@spool.cs.wisc.edu
"Feed the soil, not the plant"
From: daoffer@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Debora Offer)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Help!  They've got me by the roots!
Date: 27 Jan 93 20:23:41 GMT
Followup-To: rec.gardens
Distribution: na
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin
NNTP-Posting-Host: dewey.cc.utexas.edu
In-reply-to: karpen@nrlfs1.nrl.navy.mil's message of Wed, 27 Jan 1993 19:43:25 GMT

In article <karpen-270193142717@shiva4175.nrl.navy.mil> karpen@nrlfs1.nrl.navy.mil (Judy Karpen) writes:
[...]
	DON'T plant anything from the mint family (including lemon balm) in a bed
	shared with other plants. In fact, put it somewhere in lousy soil, far from
	your garden, & HOPE that keeps it in check. 
[...]

I planted spearmint in an open bed last year and it has definitely NOT
taken over.  After several months I started getting a few sprouts in the
lawn but nothing the lawn mower couldn't take care of.  I guess it must
be my heavy clay/caliche/lime stone soil.  Frankly, I would prefer mint
to my current lawn.  (Buffalo grass v Bermuda grass)
--

\__ __/          Debora    daoffer@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu           \__ __/
   T any opinions expressed are mine, not necessarily my employers T
From: jbs@cbnews.cb.att.com (john.b.skiendziel)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Plant recommendations
Keywords: Privacy
Date: 26 Jan 93 15:00:40 GMT
Article-I.D.: cbnews.1993Jan26.150040.7199
Distribution: na
Organization: AT&T





	Hello fellow netters!

	I'd like to tap into your wisdom pool again.

	We are planning to landscape our property this spring and
	are looking for some recommendations.

	Along our one property line, there is a 1 foot to 3 feet high
	wall that terraces our property with our neighbors. The
	neighbors property is the upper terrace.  We our looking to 
	establish a privacy screen between the properties. We would
	rather use plants then any mechanical device (stockade fence).


	The plants needed would have to meet the following requirements:

	Grow to at least 7' to 9' high

	Not get very bushy - or at least be able to be trimmed back without
	having it look hacked up.

	Look good planted in a line ( approx 50')

	Be able to survive climate zone 6

	If possible be a evergreen or be dense enough to still give
	privacy during the winter months.


	We are not having a border war, but a overly nosey neighbor.
	It would be nice to enjoy the yard without being encountered
	EVERY time we go out.

	Thanks in advance!

	John Skiendziel

- The opinions expressed by no means represent those of my employer
Newsgroups: rec.gardens,misc.consumers.house
From: R1DWS@VM1.CC.UAKRON.EDU (Dan Stefancik)
Subject: Re: AutoDesk Landscaping Computer Program
Organization: The University of Akron
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 05:34:20 GMT

In article <1993Jan26.004002.1842@VFL.Paramax.COM>
garyp@rmtc.paramax.com (Gary Palangian [RMTC/ISP]) writes:
 
>
>
>Hey Now Everybody,
>
>    AutoDesk, the AutoCAD people, have a computer program out
>that assists you in doing home landscape design.  It is
>about $40 retail and I saw it in a local hardware   Does
>anyone have any experience with this program?  Is it
>worth the money?
>
>I have that program. For homeowner use, it IS worth the $40.  It seems to be
a scaled-down version of Generic CADD with hybrid menus and symbols.  If you
want  to split the difference between that and Auto CAD, for about $275. you
can get Generic CADD (v6) which is a heck of a good program.  It to has symbol
libraries; but it also has many other  features,such as layering, which enable
you to show seasonal changes in your plantings. Hope this helps.
 
Xref: sparky rec.gardens:9255 misc.consumers.house:17465
From: trhan@stein.u.washington.edu (Teri Rhan)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens,misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Gardening programs
Keywords: Vegetable garden design software
Date: 27 Jan 93 23:37:32 GMT
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
NNTP-Posting-Host: stein.u.washington.edu


There's a nifty program from Abracadata called "Sprout".  It is a graphical 
design package that has an extensive editable database of vegetables.  You set 
the climate and it tells you when to plant whatever type of vegetable you 
specify, how to space it, or given an alloted space how many plants will fit,
how many days till harvest, expected yield, ph recommendations.  There is quite a list of icons to choose from to create and add to the database or you can 
create your own.  There are quite a few other features that I just haven't 
had time to get into yet.

I got it thru PC Connection at 1-800-800-5555 for about $35.  I called 2 
weeks before Christmas and it arrived about 4 weeks later, but they warned me 
that it was on back order.

Teri

In article <1993Jan27.143848.5345@CERIS.Purdue.EDU> jheath@CERIS.Purdue.EDU (Jim Heath) writes:
>Speaking of computer programs, does anyone know of any programs (freeware,
>shareware, commercial) for planning a garden which will also give
>approximate yields for what you plant?
>-- 
>"Land of song, said the warrior bard,           Jim Heath
>Though all the world betrays thee.
>One sword, at least, thy rights shall guard, (The Minstrel Boy)
>One faithful harp will praise thee."         (Thomas Moore)
From: charlie_hall@lds.loral.com (Charlie Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Root-knot Nematode in Florida
Date: 27 Jan 93 21:03:33 GMT
Reply-To: charlie_hall@lds.loral.com
Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu

I recently pulled the last of my tomato plants and noticed that the
roots were very badly knotted.  I believe the cause may be the
infamous root-knot nematode.  A popular method for reducing the
damage caused by this pest is to use Vapam.  A friend told me
that his garden supplier indicated that Vapam is no longer on
the market.

I have not used Vapam in a couple of years, and have instead used
the "clear plastic heating in the hot sun" method which is certainly
more environmentally sound than Vapam.  It appears to me that the
pest has been building up over the last years, and that the clear
plastic may not be working completely.

Can anyone offer a solution, ideally one that I can live with
environmentally?  Thanks in advance.
--
Charlie Hall                    OFFICE:    (813)378-6957
Loral Data Systems              FAX:       (813)378-6787
P.O. Box 3041                   INTERNET:  charlie_hall@lds.loral.com
Sarasota, FL    34240
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: jlawlor@ptdi12.intel.com (Jay Lawlor ~)
Subject: Re: sources for moss?
Reply-To: jlawlor@ptdcs2.intel.com
Organization: Intel Portland Technology Development
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 17:54:45 GMT

>>>>> On 25 Jan 1993 13:41:46 GMT, ai888@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Thomas Flesher) said:
Thomas> NNTP-Posting-Host: slc4.ins.cwru.edu


Thomas> Where can I buy moss spores or plants?

You can come dig it out of my lawn for free.  :^)
--

Jay Lawlor                                         jlawlor@ptdcs2.intel.com
Mailstop: AL4-57      Phone: (503) 642-8050        FAX:   (503) 649-3996
==============================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: Christine_Code@mindlink.bc.ca (Christine Code)
Subject: Re: Canadian catalogues?
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1993 22:06:50 GMT

> LS45 writes:
>
> Msg-ID: <21JAN93.12186364.0182@UNBVM1.CSD.UNB.CA>
> Posted: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 15:17:0
>
> Org.  : The University of New Brunswick
>
> Hi, I was just wondering if there was a list for mail order
> catalogues in Canada for flowers and vegetables.  This will be my
> first garden and I'm getting restless for spring so I can start.
> Thanks in advance, D. Savoie
>


Hi there!  I have a list of about 15 seed companies in Canada, and their
addresses.  I think my favourite is Salt Spring Seeds in B.C., but there are
other fun places to order from as well.   I'll post my list of names and
addresses for you within the next couple of days.

...Christine

--

==========================================================================
Christine Code                 *
                               *  "A bear, however hard he tries,
Vancouver, B.C, CANADA         *   Grows tubby without exercise."
Christine_Code@MindLink.bc.ca  *                   -A.A. Milne
==========================================================================