HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: klett@ghill.enet.dec.com (Michael Klett)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing,alt.beer
Subject: Re: MURPH'S SHIT CAME IN!  MURPH'S SHIT CAME IN!!
Date: 12 Aug 92 16:03:34 GMT
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation


In article <FXZcPB1w164w@buscard.fidonet.org>, murph@buscard.fidonet.org (Brian Murphy) writes...

>I saw more expensive
>yeasts but bought the M&F to match the M&F extract I ordered.  Even
>though I read that better yeast is a good thing, I thought it'd be a
>good idea to get the same brand yeast as the extract.

It doesn't matter who made the yeast and who made the extract.  I've enjoyed
Red Star yeast (donning asbestos underware) and will be using Wyeast - neither
company makes extract.  It's sortof like motor oil - I can buy "Ford" motor
oil from a Ford dealer (best for my Ford truck?) or I can by Castrol at the
local autoparts store.  But, hey, if it feels good for you to match 'em - go
for it - your beer is gonna taste great.

>I've learned that mixing up the ingredients is probably
>going to be more fun than worriful.

See?  You already knew this.

>Bought 10 ounces of Cascade hopsters.

Boy, you ARE a hop-head.  I've not put more than 3 oz (yet :-)) in a five
gallon batch.

>Oh!  Almost forgot to tell you (like you've even read this far, right?)!

I am.

>What am I going to do with the opened, half-empty can?  6.6 pounds of
>this syrup CAN'T make 5 gallons of good beer, right?

Put it in yer brew.  I always (well recently) put at least two 3.3 lb cans of
malt extract syrup into my five gallon batches, and then I add adjunct grains!
Use'em both, you'll love it (trust me).  Read Papazian's chart for all the
different styles - most call for 6-7 pounds of extract for a 5 gallon batch
(trust Papazian).  Go for it!

>                     Your friend in Lawrence, Massachusetts...
>                                 - - - Murph

Hmmmm, when you gonna have a party inviting all of your net-friends (myself
included) to sample yer brew?  I figger the 19th or 20th of September looks
pretty good.  :-)

Good luck with yer first brew,
Mike
From: alh@tekig1.PEN.TEK.COM (Al Hooton)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: The use of Grolsch bottles?
Date: 13 Aug 92 16:18:48 GMT
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Beaverton,  OR.

In article <1992Aug11.200136.22447@news.nd.edu> ulick@chopin.helios.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford) writes:
>I read an article in the latest Zymurgy where the use of Grolsh bottles was
>suggested to save the expense of buying a capper.  I laughed.  Here 2 packs 
>of Grolsch are ~$4.

Well, here in Oregon (not Orygun :^]), we have a $0.05 cent deposit on things
like beer bottles.  Several (too many) years ago I had a roommate who was
seeing a girl that worked at a supermarket as a checker, putting herself
through nursing school.  I asked her to talk to the manager for me, and we
setup a deal: if I paid the store the $0.05 deposit on a bottle, I could take
it away with me - ad nauseum.  So I now have around 60 of these fine puppies,
complete with new gaskets from a brewing supply place, and they work *great*.
Of course, I'm moving into kegging now, but I will still use the bottles for
the small experimental batches, while keeping a good supply of my favorite
drinking brew around in the kegs.

Add it up for yourself, this was *way cheap*!  If you have the
opportunity, I think this is a good way to get some Grolsch bottles.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  If human beings could explode with the energy   | Al Hooton, SW engineer ???
 of 1000-megaton H-bombs, in accordance with      |     T&M Telecom Products   
 Einstein's equation, their social relations      | Tektronix, Inc.          
 might become a little strained.                  | (503) 627-4216 (wk)
                                                  | (503) 626-6849 (hm)
      - Nigel Calder, "Einstein's Universe"       | alh@tekig1.pen.tek.com
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: amcmicha@gmuvax2.gmu.edu (Andrew McMichael)
Subject: Re: Beer Expiration
Organization: George Mason University, Fairfax, Va.
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 16:25:46 GMT

-->
How long does a bottled chilled batch of homebrew last?
-->


about two weeks in, my house.


:)
From: slk6p@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Brewing Legality in Utahahahaha
Date: 21 Aug 92 09:51:46 MDT
Organization: Utah State University

I was just informed last night as were tapped the keg in the basement
of some aspect of the legality of brewing in Utah I was not aware of.
As I gather-  the wording of the law would require- if enforced (ha!)
would not even allow the making of bread in this "holy" state!
I guess it refers to the use of yeast, as an active member of a cooking
effort.  I'm going to see if I can't find a true copy of the law, and 
see what it "really" says.  
	Of course the law is not, and could not really be enforced without
major violations of our constititional rights.  This is a relief to all
us drinking utahns, who are more than just fed uwith the quality of
our american pissbeers, but insult is added to injury by making the
crap even less worthwhile- as it is -2" beer in this state.  
	There aremarkable number of homebrewers in s in the area (as I am
I amcontinually learning).  It seems ridiculous that you can buy extracts
and grains, and equipment but you can't use it.  They even seel xtracts
at the grocery store now.  A positive move in a state where all the bars 
close on sunday, and you have to go the the state liquor store to buy REAL
beer at outrageous prices!   Utah's liquor laws are the pits!!!!

	As we brew, so we brew, and we WILL BREW!	J. Wyllie
P.S. don't tell anyone I wrote this!  They might want to search my basement.

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: dickson@mbir.mnet.uswest.com (Steve Dickson)
Subject: Re: >$190 for a pot (with cover)?!?
Followup-To: rec.crafts.brewing
Organization: U S WEST Communications, Inc.
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 21:44:05 GMT

In article <patw.714072355@cserver>, patw@cserver.plexus.com (Pat Wilson)
wrote:
> 
> $190 for a 10 gallon brew pot is not all that outrageous.  If you go
> to your local department store, they want $100 - $150 for a 16 quart
> stainless steel pot with lid.  If you have an outlet mall nearby,
> prices are more like $50 - $70.  Look for a Revere Factory outlet
> store or Farberware Factory outlet.  They don't have 10 gallon pots, 
> usually 4 - 5 gallon is the largest.  They do have the best prices.

Look in the wantads of your friendly local newspaper under miscellaneous
and find somone selling a 40qt. canning kettle. the covers are made to seal
like
a pressure cooker, though, but I boil with the cover off. Mine cost me $35.
your
milage may vary. 

used is allways better, I think. most "brewing equipment" can be improvised

from other cooking hardware. 

Used restaurant equipment dealers have all sorts of goodies, too !
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: dkl@xcluud.sccsi.com (David Karl Leikam)
Subject: Re: sparkling sweet mead?
Organization: Greater Montrose UFO Appreciation Society & Data Haven
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 22:07:59 GMT

In article <1992Aug21.095714.1982@midway.uchicago.edu> rei3@midway.uchicago.edu writes:
>	I have a lemon mead going now, close to ready to bottle, but
>I've hit a snag.  I'd planned on having the mead be sparkling (not
>force carbonated), but it is not going to ferment out all the sugar.
>I'm wondering whether it's feasible to add a bit of water to the mead
>when I bottle it, to bring down the alcohol % enough to allow a bit
>more fermentation to get the carbonation.  It is strongly flavored, so
>adding the water is not going to make it taste weak.
>

   You've certainly confused me, here. Too much residual sugar, so you
want to dilute to lower the alcohol content so it won't ferment so much...
right. ;> 
 
   Ok, first things first. You want it MUCH more strongly carbonated than
beer typically is. A sparking wine is supposed to sparkle for a while, not
foam like a beer. So you have a lot more dissolved CO2 in it. Take a look
at the way other sparkling wine is made. (Methode champenoise, since I'll
just assume you don't have the apparatus for bulk processing a la Charmat.)
 
   The wine typically does ferment all the way out. An additional solution
of sugar/water is typically added to restart fermentaton for the carbonation.
Now it's necessary for this process to go on a lot longer in wine than in
beer. Result: much more sedimentation. You are likely going to have to just
live with that fact.
 
   There IS a way to get rid of it, but you'll need a peasant or monk to
give the bottle a little twist-shake in its upside down rack, about 3 times
a week. This collects the sediment in the neck, near the cork. After a
few months, suspend the bottle in a solution of freezing brine. When the 
liquid in the neck freezes, open the bottle and the plug of sediment
will pop out. Add more wine to top up the bottle (leaving adequate ullage)
and re-cork. Do all this as fast as possible. Put it back in the rack
for another couple of months, and there you are.
 
   So if you really do have residual sugar, you're ahead of the game. All
you basically need to do is bottle, possibly with a bit of champagne yeast
instead of priming sugar, and wait a long time. I don't see much point
in diluting it for any reason.

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: smitley@super.org (David L. Smitley)
Subject: oxygen during sparge
Followup-To: smitley@super.org
Keywords: oxidation sparge
Organization: Supercomputing Research Center (Bowie, MD)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 19:17:11 GMT


I recently purchased at lauter tun from SBS (makers of auto-mash)
called sparge magic.  This is a neat variant on the two-bucket
approach in which the sparge water is literally sucked through the
mash.  The device works wonders - my sparge efficiency meets or
exceeds those given by Miller and yet I only spend 20 minutes
sparging.

My concern is oxidation - the device violently sucks the sparge water
through the mash and in the process appears to introduce a large
amount of oxygen.  Should I worry about this or will the boil take
care of things?  I am very careful about not aerating the hot wort
after the boil.  Has anyone else had experience with this device and
performed an A/B comparison with more gentle sparge procedures?

david smitley

smitley@super.org
From: markn@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (mark.nevar)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Natural Gas Burners
Keywords: Natural Gas Burners
Date: 19 Aug 92 19:30:34 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: AT&T

In article <drw.714173844@wink> drw@blink.att.com (Doug Woolley(x2405)) writes:
>run it on natural gas not propane.  I've seen 40000 BTU stock-pot
>burners in the Rapids catalog, but that would be a $300 venture
>whereas the cookers are $40-50.  Has anyone seen or know about
>any single burner Cajun Cooker-like units that run on nat. gas?

I have 2 King Kookers (they have changed their name)
One I use with propane, the other is modified for NG.
There is a nut that screws onto the supply pipe with a hole
in it. The hole has to be drilled out to 5/32" (I think) for NG.
Anyway I had them do it for me. They have the numbers for hole
diameter. As it is, the unit will put out 30K BTU. They recommend
building a resevoir out of 2" black pipe. I haven't done this yet.
A club member says he got Metal Fusion to sell him an unmodified
propane burner without the regulator for $15. He then added his own
regulator. They now say they don't sell without the regulator.
I purchased my latest burner (NG) from a HB store and they kept
the regulator and cut the price. I used it once and it worked fine.
I use it for mashing. My propane unit is moved around for hot liquor
and boiling.

Mark Nevar
From: ulick@angelico.helios.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Low O.G. - what's a brewmeister to do?
Date: 22 Aug 92 17:34:54 GMT
Organization: University of Notre Dame, Notre Dame

OK, I've been getting low OG too, and I'm blaming, drum roll, the hydrometer.
After doing a batch of Weizen with 5lb wheat and 3lb 6 row I got about
36 in around 6 gallons (about 5.5 and .5 trub, hops and stuff).  Miller
says one should get 38 points from wheat and 31-33 (i'm not sure) from 6 row.
So I thought the mill was bad for the wheat (done by store), because my 
sparge in my super Zapap was too fast.  Wheat should be slow.  But then
I reveiwed my notebook and saw that one of my present tipples, Aggie's
Pignation Light steam, made with 3.3lb Edme diastatic, and 2.3 lb of
health food store DME supposedly had an OG of 1030, finish at 1012
(hopped with 2oz Cascade, fermented with a Vierka Lager and lagered
at basement temp in secondary for 6 weeks - a very tasty brew, but
undercarbonated due either to only using 1/2 cup priming sugar, or
no yeasty beasty's left after lagering).

Based on formula and Miller's figures (45 for DME, 36 for syrup) I should
have had an OG of 37 if 6gallons volume was used (it may have been less).
My hydrometer does read about 996 in water, which would account for
most of this difference, but maybe it is really a wine hydrometer
with a paper with beer calibrations within.  I am going to check it,
probably be using the specific gravity table of sulphuric acid solutions
given in the Rubber book (CRC handbook), but am open to less corrosive
suggestions.

Also does anyone sell a decent beer hydrometer.  The one I have has
a piece of paper calibrated in Balling, SG, and potential alcohol
and looks real cheap.  I will probably recover my good one when I
go back to Ireland for Christmas, but in the meantime I am trying to
construct a rollermill and will need an accurate device to 
calculate my efficiencies.

Also my initial runoff was 1060.  Miller says it should be 1100.
Basically I was following his directions.  What do others get for
initial runoff?  And I wonder how strong my 1052 dry stout really
is (7lb 2 row, 1lb roast barley, 1Il barley flakes, hopped with
1.2 oz approx of 14.1% Nugget in about 4 gallons.  Now that one
stuck its sparge due to 2 factors. 1, I forgot to mash out, and
2 1lb flaked barley.  Reheating the mash in sparge water to mashout
temp and repacking fixed it.  Also I wasn't worried using hotter
sparge water because a Stout is supposed to have tannins anyway).

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 
+ 'There was a  master come unto the earth, + Ulick Stafford, PP-ASEL       +
+    born in the holy land of Indiana,      + Dept of Chemical Engineering, +
+ in the mystical hills east of Fort Wayne'.+ Notre Dame, IN 46556          +
+      B'fhearr liom bheith ag eitilt.      +    ulick@bach.helios.nd.edu   +
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Subject: Re: >$190 for a pot (with cover)?!?
Organization: ddsw1.MCS.COM Contributor, Chicago, IL
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 13:06:06 GMT
X-Disclaimer:  Material posted in this article is the sole responsibility of
                the poster and does not represent MCSNet or the system owners.

In article <1992Aug18.162726.11097@spdc.ti.com> serafin@epcot.spdc.ti.com (Mike Serafin) writes:
>In article <patw.714072355@cserver> patw@cserver.plexus.com (Pat Wilson) writes:
>>$190 for a 10 gallon brew pot is not all that outrageous.  If you go
>
>Try a used restaraunt supply house.  I picked up a 10 gal SS pot w/lid for 
>$100.  Just required some scrubbing to clean it up good as new.

I think we need an "automagical responder" for this one.

A BRAND NEW ONE CAN BE HAD FOR $105 by calling Rapids at (800) 543 8252

js
Xref: sparky rec.crafts.brewing:4565 alt.beer:4803
From: palmerp@math.orst.edu (Paul A Palmer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing,alt.beer
Subject: Re: Beer dispute?
Date: 14 Aug 92 01:12:21 GMT
Article-I.D.: phoebus.PALMERP.92Aug13171221
Reply-To: palmerp@math.orst.edu
Organization: Dept. of Math, Oregon State University

In article <Jul31.135716.36172@yuma.ACNS.ColoState.EDU> copeland@lamar.ColoState.EDU (Jeffrey Copeland) writes:

   In article <wsuqoB1w165w@hophead> zen%hophead@canrem.com (Nick Zentena) writes:
   >        With the current ongoing beer "war" between Canada
   >        and the US I have a couple of questions.
   >
   >                1) One of the points of contention is the
   >                increase in the enviromental tax on canned
   >                beer. Do any US states or cities have
   >                similar laws intended to lessen the use of
   >                cans?

   Several states have deposits on both cans and bottles, these are the
   non-reuseable kind,  there is also a deposit on the reuseable long
   necks even in states with no dposit on the other bottles

I moved to Oregon a few years ago. They have a 5 cent deposit on beer
containers here (3 cents on some quart bottles). The thing I don't understand
though, and that I've never gotten an answer to, is that no one sells beer in
longneck returnable bottles.

Makes no sense to me; it seems like returnable bottles are much more
environmentally sound than cans and non-reusable bottles.

--
Paul Palmer
Department of Mathematics     	E-mail: palmerp@math.orst.edu
Kidder Hall 368
Oregon State University, Corvallis, Oregon 97331-4605
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: dcb@rosedale.uucp (Dave Breneman)
Subject: Re: Brewing in 1903, Part 4
Organization: The Spud Goodman Show
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1992 21:55:49 GMT

In article <1992Aug18.191846.9452@fps.com> bruceh@fps.com (Bruce T. Hill) writes:
>Fellow brewers and beer lovers,
>
>Here is the 4th and final part of the Brewing and Malting section
>of the "Encyclopedia Americana" published in 1903.  This article
>was written by Robert Wahl, of the Wahl-Henius Institute
>of Fermentology in Chicago. Illinois.
>
I must have missed something - was the post on beer statistics number 3?
If not, I missed number 3.  Could you repost it or email me a copy?
Thanks - and thanks for taking the time to post this info - very
informative and interesting.

-- 
David Breneman            #################          Historical revisionism:
The Spud Goodman Show      ####### #######           Elvis Presley was a joke
dcb@rosedale.uucp           #####   #####            A washed-up has-been.
 ..uunet!camco!rosedale!dcb      (_)  - - - Ciao.    Then he died... The King!
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jimf@cbnewse.cb.att.com (james.r.fehrenbacher)
Subject: recipes for wine, mead wanted
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 18:51:03 GMT


If anyone has recipes for mead or wines, I would appreciate
seeing them. Thanks.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: betel@camelot.bradley.edu (Robert Crawford)
Subject: Re: Questions about mead/wining
Organization: Bradley University
Distribution: na
Date: 14 Aug 92 21:11:33 GMT

jimf@cbnewse.cb.att.com (james.r.fehrenbacher) writes:
>I'm a novice just getting into winemaking (not to be confused
>with whining). I have some downhome recipes for mead and
>other wines. From reading this newsgroup it appears that a
>special yeast must be used for winemaking, not the stuff you
>buy at the grocery store. Is that correct?

	You can use baker's yeast, but your results will be much
better if you use a wine yeast. It's not difficult to find a supply of
yeasts -- look in the yellow pages under "Brewing Supplies" or
"Winemaking Equipment and Supplies".

>Also, my recipes suggest using gallon jugs capped with 
>balloons for the fermentation process. Is that adequate for
>making decent wine? Or is soem mroe specialized method 
>needed?

	That will work, but unless you can insure the balloon won't
pop or come off of the neck, it's risky. The alternative is to use a
device called an airlock which lets pressure escape while not letting
air or bacteria in.
	In case your worried, a pack of (dry) wine yeast, an airlock,
and a rubber stopper for the fermenter should cost a total of about
three bucks.
	The rubber stopper should have a hole in it (to insert the
airlock), and a number 8 or 8 1/2 will fit nicely into the jug.

	BTW -- what kind of wine were you planning to make?

--
	"Phht! Gurgle, gurgle, gurlge..."
			- a bottle of cider, after deciding to
			spontaneously turn into sparkling cider
Robert Crawford				betel@camelot.bradley.edu
From: ulick@angelico.helios.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Removing labels from commercial bottles
Date: 14 Aug 92 18:32:48 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Notre Dame, Notre Dame

In article <1992Aug13.164249.9716@leland.Stanford.EDU> mrbill@leland.Stanford.EDU (William Bowen) writes:
>In article <1992Aug11.201246.22607@news.nd.edu> ulick@chopin.helios.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford) writes:
>>
>>Experience makes me dubious.  While I didn't try overnight with sodium
> carbonate...
>>Admitedly, I didn`t try what you propose, and perhaps it's worth trying...
>
>Ulick, given your remarks above, I have just one question for you:
>What experience?!

The 'experience' of trying to remove my own labels by overnight soaking
in a variety of bases.  About the only two I didn't use were washing soda
and caustic, but I tried strong solutions of TSP and sodium metasilicate.
I am convinced that it doesn't matter how strong a base I use, an aqueous
solution is not going to penetrate Miller High Life metallic labels.
Perhaps hot caustic would work (not something I care to try), or perhaps
high pressure steam.  I do have a few more bottles to strip and will
try other things, like caustic and soda ash and if I have success, I'll
report it here.  If not I'll continue to say that a scraper is needed.


+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 
+ 'There was a  master come unto the earth, + Ulick Stafford, PP-ASEL       +
+    born in the holy land of Indiana,      + Dept of Chemical Engineering, +
+ in the mystical hills east of Fort Wayne'.+ Notre Dame, IN 46556          +
+      B'fhearr liom bheith ag eitilt.      +    ulick@bach.helios.nd.edu   +
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From: joeld@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Joel Dunsmore)
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 19:39:33 GMT
Subject: Re: Re: Bleach sanitation
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Rosa, CA
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing

I took a Junior College summer course on homebrewing, and they said..

 2 Tablespoons bleach for 5 gallons water.  10 minutes for the bleach
 to "activate", and 20 minutes contact time.  If you have a big bleach 
 bucket, and are sanitizing several items, the 10 minutes to activate occurs
 just once.  More bleach means less contact time.  At this concentration,
 they claim no rinsing is required, and if things dry, the bleach is 
 gone anyway.

Joeld