HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: ggibeau@ucqais.cba.uc.edu (George G. Gibeau)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Woodworking books
Summary: Inexpensive source for woodworking books
Keywords: woodworking books
Date: 18 Nov 92 07:54:04 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Cincinnati, College of Business

I have been an avid reader of this group for some time and thought
my first post should be something helpful.  I have seen a lot of
posts that mention various publications that deal with woodworking.
I recently came upon a store in our area called Half-Price Books.
I am unsure if it is a chain store, but it is a HUGH store that has a wide
variety of books.  They have a fairly large section that deals with
home improvements, woodworking, etc...  An example of their pricing
is a hardback copy of Patrick Spielman's book "Router Jigs and Techniques",
brand new, perfect condition was $5.00.  All the other hard back publications
were in the $4.98 to $8.98 range.  The cheapest I have seen Spielman's
book mail order was about $16.95.

If anyone is interested I will try to compose a list of the available 
publications they offer regarding woodworking, along with prices.  I am
not sure if they do mail sales or not.  This is not a second hand store
that has 1 copy of this and 1 copy of that.  If they have a title, they have
a whole stack of them.

Regards,

George Gibeau

disclaimer: I have no association with Half Price Books other than as a
VERY satisfied customer who happens to be a voracious reader...


-- 
George Gerald Gibeau, Jr.   ggibeau@ucqais.uc.edu
University of Cincinnati    Department of Biological Sciences
Ecologists - we'll save the world, even if it kills you.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: tlp00@climb.as (Tibor Polgar)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Planing glued-up boards
Date: 18 Nov 92 10:14:14 GMT
Reply-To: tlp00@climb.as
Organization: Sun Microsystems

In article 4320060@hpcc01.corp.hp.com, gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz) writes:
>Bill Alexander <ALEX@NKI.BITNET> writes:
>>

>    I have put some glued-up panels through my planer.  It didn't hurt the
>    steel knives, as far as I can tell.  I went on to plane a lot of other
>    lumber.

Never had it happen with my planer but cleaning up a finger joint with a HSS spiral
router bit, I ended up with nice little nicks all a finger apart.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Tibor L. Polgar    |  (408) 746-8649     | tlp00@climb.ras.amdahl.com
| Amdahl Corporation
| 1250 East Arques Avenue (M/S 281)
| P.O. Box 3470
| Sunnyvale, CA 94088-3470
|
| The opinions expressed above are mine, solely, and do not in any way
| shape or form reflect the opinions or policies of Amdahl Corp.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: Router Table Inquiries
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 17:25:20 GMT

Stan Armstrong writes
> As for using a horizontal jig with two stop blocks, I suppose one stop
> block and an index mark would do the trick...

The problems I have with using marks for stopped mortise cutting are:

1) In order to stop at the mark I find myself slowing down as the marks
   approach each other. On some woods this can cause burning. Of course,
   slowing the router's rpm down and cutting everything slower can reduce
   this tendency (and I think is a good idea in general).

2) I cut deep mortises using multiple passes. If on the final pass I go just
   a tad beyond the mark, the bit will be cutting at full extension. There
   would be a tendency for the bit to grab the workpiece, which could ruin
   the cut or be dangerous.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
Opinions are mine alone.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas S. Rand)
Subject: Re: Electric drills
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Distribution: na
Date: 19 Nov 92 11:46:32

In article <1992Nov19.030404.25804@cbnewse.cb.att.com> parnass@cbnewse.cb.att.com (Bob Parnass, AJ9S) writes:

   In article <1992Nov17.210929.6854@osf.org>,
   drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas S. Rand) writes:

    > ....  As an aside, the salesman at HD insisted that
    > DeWalt is not B&D professional warmed over....

   I don't believe that salesman based on my observations of the
   tools, the DeWalt & B&D catalogs I have, and what has already been
   published in the woodworking press.

   BTW, there's a new DeWalt biscuit joiner out and it got a
   good review in the Dec 1992 WOOD magazine.   To complicate
   matters, WOOD's tool reviews often contradict my own
   experience  :-)

Of course,  I didn't say I believed him,  I just repeated what
he said :) .  This very same Home Depot was selling B&D Pro and
the B&D Pro equipment looked just like the DeWalt stuff,  
excepting the labels and yellow handles.  I do like the DeWalt
though,  and I think changing the name was an excellent marketing
ploy on the part of B&D,  who used to make fine tools way back when.

--
Douglas S. Rand <drand@osf.org>		OSF/Motif Dev.
Snail:         11 Cambridge Center,  Cambridge,  MA  02142
Disclaimer:    I don't know if OSF agrees with me... let's vote on it.
Amateur Radio: KC1KJ
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: psv2b@poe.acc.Virginia.EDU (Peter S. Vines)
Subject: Suggest a Random Orbital Sander
Organization: University of Virginia
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 18:50:30 GMT


I hope to obtain a random orbital sander as a gift this year and would
like to suggest a good brand/model to the purchaser.  I've read recent 
reviews and am leaning towards either the Bosch or Ryobi ($100-150 range).

What is the nets experience with these tools?  What are the differences
between the methods for attaching the sandpaper?  What are the merits of
the various dust collection techniques?
 
Thanks for any suggestions,


--
- Peter Vines : vines@virginia.edu : (804) 924-4644 : University of Virginia
From: wilson@schaefer.math.wisc.edu (Bob Wilson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Wormdrive saws
Date: 18 Nov 92 20:38:49 GMT
Organization: Univ. of Wisconsin Dept. of Mathematics

wesw@hpmwtd.sr.hp.com (Wes Whiteley) writes:

>/ hpmwmkt6:rec.woodworking / Jeff Roberts <JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.BITNET> /  7:47 am  Nov 13, 1992 /
>Would anybody out there consider explaining the details of these saws such
>as application, why it's called "wormdrive" etc.  I'm not familiar with them.

>Jeff Roberts  JROBERTS@UTDALLAS
>----------

>  Jeff,

>  I don't have all the details, but here is the the basics.

>  On a normal circular saw, the motor's shaft is directly (i.e. NO gears)
>  connected to the saw blade. On a worm drive saw the blade is connected to 
>  the motor via a set of "worm" gears.  The biggest advantage of these saws
>  is the increase in torque as a result of the gear ratios.  The draw backs
>  are: 1) a heavier saw. 2) a little more maintenance (the gear oil has to 
>  be changed occasionally - depending on usage).


>  Good luck,

>  wes
I think the "no gears" statement is almost always wrong. The typical
universal motor in one of these saws turns way too fast for the blade
and is geared down. Better saws probably use helical cut gears, to
minimize the noise as much as anything else, but they definitely use
gears. (Easy to check without disassembly or looking in parts diagram:
Turn the blade while looking into a ventilation slot. With one stage
of gearing, as is common, the motor and the blade turn opposite
directions.)
I did read a review of circular saws which had ONE MODEL without
gears, using a special motor which would develop enough torque at
lower RPM. I don't recall which model that was but it was unique, the
counterexample which proves the theorem.
The worm gear in fact is probably a little LESS efficient at
transmitting power, because of the greater friction, but when properly
done (they run in an oil bath, the regular gears are in air with just
some grease smeared on the teeth) this isn't great. The big advantages
seem to come primarily from the fact that the worm-drive has a 90
degree bend in it, so the motor armature runs front-to-back rather
than across the cut. This changes the balance as well as where the
motor is blocking visibility. I suspect another difference is just
that a manufacturer will probably put more quality into something
selling in the higher price class, although that is certainly not
always true.
Bob Wilson
wilson@math.wisc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: marc@breeze.bellcore.com (Marc F Pucci)
Subject: Re: Homebrew Dust Collector
Reply-To: marc@bellcore.com (Marc F Pucci)
Organization: Bellcore, Morristown, NJ
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 92 16:51:19 GMT

In article <3988@ecicrl.ocunix.on.ca> clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis) writes:
>
>The one I was referring to, the one in BHG WOOD, is this box the size
>of a 26" console TV and rolls around your shop on casters.  In a small
>shop, you'd keep falling over it.  Plus one more cord to trip over.
>

I was thinking about mounting a home brew dust collector on the ceiling.
Not a chip collector; just for the fine dust, which is the most worrisome.
As my shop is about 25 feet long, I figured on putting a plenum along
the wall with almost continuous furnace filters (lots of surface area for
filtering) and a 600 CFM fan on the far end.  The filters would be on the
vertical part of the plenum.  Probably add a lip to catch the fallout
when the fan is turned off.

Gross ascii edge-side view of shop:

-----------|
        |XX| <- plenum with cutouts for filters; runs length of shop;
         --| 600 cfm fan at far end.
           |
           |
   Shop    |
           |
___________|

Marc Pucci
marc@bellcore.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: john@cirrus.com (John Wishneusky)
Subject: Re: Scraping versus Sanding
Organization: Cirrus Logic Inc.  Fremont, California
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 02:06:03 GMT

In article <3989@ecicrl.ocunix.on.ca> clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis) writes:
>In article <1992Nov5.102424@wsl.dec.com> gringort@wsl.dec.com (Joel Gringorten) writes:
>>In article <5330101@hpindda.cup.hp.com>, gph@hpindda.cup.hp.com (Paul Houtz) writes:
> 
>>|> I would scrape rather than sand.
>
>>|> A good quality steel scraper, properly edged and burnished, will give you a
>>|> much better surface than sanding.
>
>>The context to which Paul wrote the above statement applied to oak, and I 
>>think I agree.  However, I wish to raise the question whether scraping is
>>*always* preferable to sanding, particularly in "problem" woods.  
>
>Many people get religious and say that scrapers *ALWAYS* do a better job.
>That's simply not true.  Scrapers don't work that well on softwoods,
>and behave miserably on things like birdseye maple, crotch grain etc.
>
>I had some fairly wild grain birch, and the scrapers (my first attempt)
>didn't do *that* great a job.  (I believe I had the scrapers sharpened
>correctly, I was impressed with the shavings I was able to produce.)
>
I watched a Fine Woodworking video, I think it was on wood finishing,
where the craftsman demonstrated planing and scraping prior to
applying a finish to new wood.  The piece he domonstrated on had an
area of "wild grain".  He had to approach little bits of the area from
different directions to get the best result, reading shifts in the
grain, but he did all the final surface preparation with a cabinet
scraper.  I've used scrapers for final finishing in lieu of large
amounts of sanding for years now (ever since my orbital sander died :-)
and find I have improved gradually with each project.  I'm not as
consistent yet in sharpening the scraper as I'd like, but find I get
the best edge when I don't try to cheat the process:

Draw file the edge, stone the edge, burnish from 2 directions to
produce a good hook.

John
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: gcohen@mailer.cc.fsu.edu (Gregory Cohen)
Subject: Re: planer/jointer blade adjustment
Organization: Florida State University
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 92 20:33:18 GMT

In article <1992Nov18.190328.16456@tandem.com> leo@cpd.Tandem.COM (Leo Hejza) writes:
>In article <1992Nov18.164353.23096@wuecl.wustl.edu>, dls@wuee1.wustl.edu (Donald L. Snyder) writes:
>>My Delta 12" planer and 6" jointer are well overdue for blade
>>replacement.  I see several options for approaching the task and
>>am interested in learning about the experiences others have had.
>> Here are the choices I've identified so far.  Maybe others can
>>be suggested.
>>
>>2.  Magnaset.  These are widely advertised devices that use
>>magnets on a pair of arms at each end of the blade to hold the
>>blades in place while set screws are tightened.  Sounds
>>straightforward, but the cost is high.  Really high since
>>separate Magnasets are required for the planer and jointer.  My
>>just received catalog from Woodworker's Supply has these listed
>>at $71.95 for the planer and $41.50 for the jointer (assuming
>>steel and not carbide blades).  Each is a substantial fraction
>>of the cost of the planer or jointer itself.
>>
>There are cheaper methods to do this but I haven't found a faster one. When
>I bought my DJ-15 jointer I bought a magnaset, and I haven't been sorry
>since. I'd never put blades on a jointer before, and even the first time 
>only took 10 min. They were very well aligned, no scalloping, etc.
>
>At a woodworking show I talked to the people who make these, and they
>recommended the carbide ones, even if you're setting steel blades. The
>only difference is that the carbide ones have a stronger magnet. But
>believe me, when these things grab the blade, it's held solidly.
>
>I know they're expensive, but I probably wouldn't have the blades
>sharpened nearly as often, if it were a real pain to realign them.
>
>Leo.

I havent been able to quickly jurry-rig a planer rig, but for my joiner I 
found a large horseshoe magnet from a junk store near me.  It works just
as well as the professional rigs I have used, and it cost me about $4.

-GReg cohen
gcohen@mailer.acns.fsu.edu
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Beware of the Fnord or it will eat you.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From: lcatlett@carson.u.washington.edu (Lynn Catlett)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Upstate NY Sawmilling?
Date: 19 Nov 92 16:17:43 GMT
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle

>So that leaves finding a friend, net. or otherwise, who has a
>portable sawmill, or buying or renting a sawmill, or a chainsaw

Just for info:  when I was last in Ithaca NY (Sept 91),
someone was operating a portable sawmill in a parking lot
down by the lake--no one seemed *too* astounded/outraged, so
it might not be a very rare thing around there...
Good luck!
Lynn
From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 02:56:52 GMT
Subject: Re: Re: Roy Underhill is a good turner. Norm ain't.
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

paul.burnett@pcs.sj.ca.us (Paul Burnett) writes:
>TO: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
>
>GPH>   It reminds me of some of the "Helpful Shop Tips" in Fine Woodworking
>   >   magazine.  Some of them are good tips, some of them are good for a
>   >   laugh.
>
>C'mon, Paul - _all_ of us were beginners once.  <G>  FWW and other mags
>are aimed at those who aspire to _becoming_ "fine woodworkers" as much
>as it is at those who already are.  (And there's darn few of us -
>right?)  <G>

   Yes, Paul, but the editors of Fine Woodworking are *NOT* beginners,
   and I would expect them to at least *try* some of these suggestions,
   before publishing them in their magazine.

   I will continue to criticize *everything* I see here and in magazines,
   even if it comes from beginners.  I am sorry if that offends you.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mikel@col.hp.com (Mike Lopke)
Subject: Protecting table saw for a move?
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 17:49:58 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division

I'm going to be moving soon and need to prepare my table 
saw.  I'm concerned about proventing rust mainly because
it may be sitting in storage for up to 90 days.  Although
we are moving from dry Colorado to dryer Idaho, I don't 
want to take any chances.

I have been keeping the top in good condition using baby
powder but I'm not too sure how well this will hold up.
I thought waxing and covering with plastic might be the 
ticket but am confused on which brand to use.  I remember 
reading that you should avoid waxes with silicone in them 
because this may get in the wood and affect finishing.  
All lables I've read, however, are vague at best.

Can someone please give me a recommendation for a brand.
ie turtle wax, new finish, etc.  Also, If you have any
suggestions on what I could do to protect my saw, I'ld 
appreciate it.

Thanks,
Mike Lopke
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: dls@wuee1.wustl.edu (Donald L. Snyder)
Subject: Re: Cradle Plans
Keywords: cradle rocker baby
Organization: Washington University, St. Louis Mo.
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1992 23:27:24 GMT

In article <1992Nov12.210358.14717@hubcap.clemson.edu> colflgg@hubcap.clemson.edu (john f passafiume) writes:
>I need some pointers to sources of plans for building a cradle for my
>new grandchild who is scheduled to arrive on the scene in late May. 
>Can anyone point me to sources of plans for a simple cradle. I have a
>table saw, and thats about it, i.e., no router, shaper, planer, lathe, etc.
>so cannot do anything too elaborate. I am not against assembling a pre-cut
>kit as long as the finished product has the potential of being decent,
>that is, assuming I don't mess up. Pointer will be greatly appreciated.
>As I am new to this group, please excuse if this is a FAQ.
>

Plans for a cradle are available from:
  1.  Garrett Wade
      $9.95 for plans for a "rocking cradle
      item number 14A03.SA in their 1993 tools catalog
      telephone #: 1-800-221-2942

  2.  The Woodworkers' Store
      $4.95 for plans for a "four post cradle"
      item number 40360 in their 1991-2 catalog
      telephone #: 612-428-2199
      
  3.  Bartley recently offered a cradle kit for $199.  If it's up to the quality
      of their other kits, this should be good.
      telephone #: 1-800-227-8539

  4.  The August 1990 issue of Fine Woodworking has an article about
      making a cradle.


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: youth@sura.net (Youthana Sivali)
Subject: Waterbed plans
Keywords: waterbed construction plans
Organization: SURAnet, College Park, MD, USA, NA, Earth, Milky Way
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 20:39:17 GMT



Greetings all,



I was shopping around for waterbeds today and realized how simple the frame
construction for them was and got the idea it would be more fun to build
my own rather than buying a cheap looking basic frame. Does anyone know where
I could find a book or plans with specs and specific construction details
on waterbeds?




Thanks,



Youthana Sivali

*no fancy sigs*

youth@sura.net
 


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis)
Subject: Re: Planting exotic hardwoods
Organization: OSF Research Institute
Date: 18 Nov 92 15:24:12

In article <16NOV199211151552@accvio.intel.com> dmills@accvio.intel.com (Dave Mills) writes:

   I live in Sacramento, which is more and more like a desert every
   year, somewhat like I'd assume Africa is.

?!  Africa is a big place, but the parts where hardwood are produced
are tropical rain forest, not desert.  You don't get much wood out of
deserts.

	-s
From: ron@topaz.bds.com (Ron Natalie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Roy Underhill is a good turner.  Norm ain't.
Date: 20 Nov 1992 16:27:42 GMT
Organization: BDS Systems
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: topaz.bds.com

>   Norm is not the craftsman that Roy is, but he gets things done.  Nice
>   plans, sometimes, and good tips on construction.   But when it comes to
>   fine woodworking, Roy is your man.  

Actually Norm and Roy suffer greatly at our expense.  I had originally characterized Norm's approach as being that of a building tradesman who
applies that approach to all his work.   That's not too far off from what
I do because other than jr. high shop class, most of my initial experience
was gained in house building, though not being as Rich as Norm, I got to
appreciate hand tools more (and I'm probably more influenced by my reading
of Tage Frid and other woodworking writers).

Be that as it may, it's suprising because guess what Roy's other job is?
Building houses (well, at Colonial Williamsburg, but still).  He's never
too proud not to bleed on his job, and Margy hits me every time I relay
one of his corny jokes (I had her staring at the bark of the dog wood tree
for several minutes before she caught on).  Norm, is the reason I refer to
all of my tools with "my" as the article.

-Ron
From: KYL125@URIACC.URI.EDU (Steven Gomes)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: (no subject given)
Date: 16 Nov 92 02:48:29 GMT
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU

Howdy y'all,

Would anyone out there know where I can find plans for an old fashioned
roll-top desk?  I'd like to make a big sturdy one that I can pass on to my kids
 someday as opposed to the flimsy ones I've found in most furniture stores.

Any help would be appreciated,

Steve, <KYL125@URIACC.URI.EDU>
From: UNCDWC@UNCVM1.BITNET (Doug Cutler)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Hartville Tool & Supply.
Date: 16 Nov 92 14:18:01 GMT
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU


  In response to a couple of requests:

        Hartville Tool and Supply
        940 West Maple St.
        Hartville, Oh. 44632

        1-800-345-2396 Voice orders.
        1-216-877-4682 fax.


  Doug. Cutler                       Office of Information Technology,
  VM Systems Programmer              University of North Carolina.
From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 02:43:11 GMT
Subject: Re: CAD and project design
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

eap@vuse.vanderbilt.edu (Edward A. Parrish) writes:
>
>                            ... BTW, the Autocad tutorial is
>pretty straightforward and you really don't need to learn all
>the capabilities to do quite a bit of work. It does require more
>computer though.
>----------
   
    I am not sure what you mean.  I use Autocad on a 286 IBM compatible
    with  1/2 megabyte and no floating point card, and it works fine.
  
    Just takes a little time to redraw.
From: twl10@ccc.amdahl.com (Tom Littauer)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Magnetic Featherboard
Keywords: featherboard tablesaw
Date: 18 Nov 92 20:27:26 GMT
Reply-To: twl10@JUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Tom Littauer)
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

In article <1992Nov17.225618.2705@rambo.atlanta.dg.com> wma@atlanta.dg.com (Wayne Akins) writes:
>Does anyone have experience using a magnetic featherboard
>on a table saw?

Yes, I thought they'd be a big help.

>                 The ones I've seen advertised not only
>hold the board against the fence but also have a *finger* 
>to hold the board down flat to the table top.  Do they
>work?

Sort of. They work fine as long as you've got an iron surface to put them
on. Unfortunately they don't grip on the throat plate so you can't get one
very close to the blade - this has caused me to use them less often than I
imagined I would.

Tom
-- 
Tom Littauer at Amdahl M/S 278, PO Box 3470, Sunnyvale CA 94088-3470 USA
+1 408 737 5056     twl10@juts.ccc.amdahl.com     twl10@amail.amdahl.com
I'll tell you when I'm speaking as Amdahl's Spokesman - usually I'm not.
V'z n fgrnygu-grpuabybtl rapelcgrq .fvtangher ivehf - TBGPUN!!!
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking