HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: cczcole@mips.nott.ac.uk (Marlon Cole)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: [a] What kind of mileage do you all get on your Beetles?
Date: 25 Jan 93 11:25:00 GMT
Reply-To: cczcole@mips.nott.ac.uk (Marlon Cole)
Organization: Nottingham University

In article <1993Jan22.211738.8980@bmerh85.bnr.ca>, sircomp@bcarh289.bnr.ca (Brian Magee) writes:
|> In article <1993Jan22.145316.1@ulkyvx.louisville.edu> amjewe01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu writes:
|> >In article <C18EIE.641@news.cso.uiuc.edu>, mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu (Real Life?!?! HA!!) writes:
|> >> wanderer@camelot.bradley.edu (Kevin Murphy) writes:
|> >> 
|> >> 
|> >>>well, the summary says it.. what should I expect?
|> >> 
|> >> My friend's '62 with 1600cc engine and stock carb usually makes between 27 and
|> >> 35 mpg on the highway.  Don't know about around town.
|> >
|> >> Michael T. Chaffee       | mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu  |  ______    
|> >
|> >My (mostly) '67 with a 1600cc gets about 23 or so mpg.  This is pseudo-city
|> >driving - driving on the interstate for 10 miles then back into the city 
|> >driving.  
|> 
|> <sigh>, tis the sad truth... with mostly city driving I get about 20 - 22
|> mpg (if I did my metric conversions right :-) That's on a '71 Super Beetle,
|> stock 'cept for a quiet-pack exhaust system.

I've been keeping mpg records for my bug since I got it 5 years ago - 18 months
ago I had a Ve-Ge replacement engine put in; the car is a standard '72 1300
with a Solex carb. of unknown quality and age.
Nowadays I try to avoid short journeys and 'urban-cycle' type driving conditions
and find the mpg varies between 23 (winter) and a little over 32 (summer).
I fitted an Inlet Mainfold De-icing Unit about 6 months ago, and mpg figures
compared to previous years suggests at least a 2mpg improvement (not to mention
a general lack of stalling when the engine hasn't warmed...)

I have a question for you all tho' - I've seen advertised a gizmo that fits
around your fuel line just before it connects to the carb. that is essentially
a magnet.  It's supposed to ionise the fuel that passes near it that's 
supposed to result in more efficient burning of the (ionised) fuel, and so
better mpg's and better performance (up to 10%?).
Anyone had any experiences with such a thing, or any chemists like to comment?

Cheers,
              Marlon
------------
Marlon Cole                  email:  cczcole@unicorn.nott.ac.uk or
Systems Programmer                   cczcole@uk.ac.nott.unicorn depending.....
Cripps Computing Centre
University of Nottingham
NOTTINGHAM. NG7 2RD
England
From: zirk@celece.ucsd.edu (Karin Zirk)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Using Brakes....a Clarification
Date: 21 Jan 93 21:17:13 GMT

In article <1993Jan18.173011.28596@mnemosyne.cs.du.edu>, ben@nyx.cs.du.edu (Ben En) writes:
> I'd like all of you non-downshifting zealots to drive my 63 vw camper
> or my 62 vw pickup in the rockies without using downshifting to keep
> your speed under control - it's not either braking or downshifting, it's
> both/and and hope it doesn't get too much steeper!
> 
> --
> Ben


I'll second that one!!!!  Even using both, I had my
brakes overheat coming down from the Sierra's one
summer and lost 90% of my braking power.

Karin
From: milo@dorm.rutgers.edu (Jim  mielo)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Good VW mechanic in Central N.J.
Date: 22 Jan 93 18:50:54 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.vw
Organization: rutgers university

In article <1993Jan21.224123.16409@porthos.cc.bellcore.com>, you wrote:
> 
 I hate my dealer.
> I bought the car from Shrewsbury Motors in 
> Shrewsbury N.J.

  ME TOO!


  I am just not satisfied with
> their service.

   ME TOO!

  Does anyone have recommendations
> for any good VW mechanics in central N.J.?
> Any info is much appreciated.

  I haven't found any VW dealership I'm happy with. \I've gone to Handy
Motors in new brunswich. They were nice people but I'm not sure of their
quality. They moved last year ( went bankrupt) to Ridell (not sure of the
spelling) pontiac on RT 22. I might try them again now that they're under
new management.
    I went to Difeo VW in brigdewater on rt 287 but they took too long. It
seems they are a very busy dealership. I wasn't completely satisfied
either. My expectations might have been a little high since my previous
experience with Difeo VW in Jersey City was excellent. They're another
dealer(Difreo in Jersey City) I'd recommend.

  Also,I've tried World VW in Neptune NJ rt 33 and have found them to be
the best. They are down the road from Shrewsbury, a few miles south near
Earle Weapons Station. If you want to try them and nead better directions
just E-mail me. If you find a better place near here, could you E-mail me
also. I've been loking for a good place near Rutgers.



James Mielo
Rutgers College of Pharmacy '94
milo@dorm.rutgers.edu
 1990 GTi 8v

 Sub Umbra Petri
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: 8635660@nessie.cc.wwu.edu (Jay Lonner)
Subject: Repeat
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.40    
Reply-To: 8635660@nessie.cc.wwu.edu
Organization: Western Washington University
Date: 21 Jan 1993 21:28 PST  

Hello,

About a week ago I made a post in which I asked some questions that I would
very much like to know the answer to.  Unfortunately I never got to read the
replies, since I have a pretty flakey connection to my local newsserver and by
the time I got through they were already gone...  So I'm going to ask again and
maybe some of you would be kind enough to enlighten me...

1)  I'd like to know Gene Berg's address, and whether he has any catalogs that
    I can get my hands on.  Does he have any manuals or the like for sale, in 
    which he shares some of his knowledge with us relative ignorants?

2)  I don't see how a fan with fewer blades gets you a performance benefit,
    since it seems to me like you have to do the same amount of work to get
    the same amount of cooling.  I don't see how more revs/less blades provides
    a net gain over more blades/less revs.  

Sorry to have to inflict these questions on you again, but I'd really like to
know the answers!

Thanks,

Jay.
From: zirk@celece.ucsd.edu (Karin Zirk)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Bus/Camper How much should I pay?
Date: 21 Jan 93 21:13:11 GMT
Distribution: na



Well, deciding how much a 20 year old camper is worth
is not easy.   Here in San Diego, most pop tops 
around 69-72 are running about $2,000 with various
things that need to be fixed.  Your best bet is
to find one that runs, if it connects with your soul
and you think its the one for you, take it to a VW
mechanic and have them do a presale check for you.
Yes I know John Muir tells you how to do it but I
suggest a professional for the following reason:

    They will tell you everything that needs to
    be fixed, much of which is not readily apparent,
    and they will also be able to give you a 
    dollar estimate on how much each of those
    items will cost to be repaired.

    I used this method when I bought my van.  I almost
    bought a super clean 1976 poptop for $2,000 - full
    camp equipment, etc.  However, the mechanic who
    did the check for me said the engine wasn't going
    to last another 5,000 miles.  This checkup cost
    me $40 and saved me the price of a new pancake
    enginie (about $1500).

    The second van I took in too be check out had
    no major problems but quite a few minor ones.
    I was able to use the repair estimate from 
    the mechanic to renegoiate the asking price
    which then dropped $500

Also, keep in mind that most of th campers you will
look at will vary in terms of what type of camp equipment
they have.   In order to decide what's important to
you, you need to think about the purpose of this camper.


Will you be taking short 1-2 weeks camping trips or
will this be your home for a period of time?  If you
want more feedback on this contact me via email. I lived
in mine for 2 years so I know whats important and what's
not.

Hope this helps.

Karin
From: rwinham@ac.dal.ca
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: '72 VW Van owner needs advice (engine mods)
Date: 26 Jan 93 21:19:53 -0400
Organization: Dalhousie University, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

I'm the semi-proud owner of a '72 VW Van (1700cc aircooled).
Does anyone know...
1) Where I can get an advance-curve diagram for a Bosch 009 distributor?
I replaced my stock one w/ a 009, but it came with no technical data
and I had to set it by ear...
2) If headers of any sort are available that use the stock muffler, but
do away with the heater boxes (see my previous post on that fiasco)
3) My old dual Solex carbs (PDSIT2/3) are worn out...my alternatives seem
to be to find a stock Bosch F.I. system and bolt it up (will it? is it
worth the trouble?) - or to buy an expensive single progressive Weber
carb. brand new. I'm leaning toward the Weber setup 'cause it's 
probably less hassle - any tips on the changeover are appreciated.
4) If it's possible/feasible to convert to a 1600 engine and take advantage 
of all those goodies they make for them? Johnny's Speed and Chrome in CA.
lists a engine mount adapter...but what about clearance for the fan shroud?
And the sheet metal changeover? 

And finally, does anyone know what happened to Bus Boys, Inc.? I read in
"Hot VW's" that they were one of the best places to go for later-model
bus parts...but I sent them a money order for their catalogue back in
August and have not received either a catalogue or my money back. I tried
calling, but I kept getting a machine and gave up. Are there any other good
sources for bus parts?
Thanks in advance for any info.

                                       Rus.
                                       email: rwinham@ac.dal.ca
                                       snailmail: #6-5800 South St.
                                                  Halifax, N.S.
                                                  Canada
                                                  B3H - 1S5
From: GC.SUL@forsythe.stanford.edu (Sullys Maze)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: found a place for rebuilt VW engine (65 bus)
Date: 26 Jan 1993 09:07:00 -0800
Organization: Stanford University
NNTP-Posting-Host: morrow.stanford.edu

A while back, I asked the question about where to get a VW engine
rebuilt reasonably in the SF bay area.  I know I can go through
mail-order for just under $600 for a single port 1600.  I am taking
my old engine in to Tassy's in Colma where they will trade a ready
rebuilt engine for $625.  I pulled the engine and took all the
shrouds, carb, generator, and exhaust/heat exchange stuff off.

This was the best deal I could find, especially since I wanted to
go somewhat north of where I work, on my way home.  I suppose a hunt
in the San Jose yellow pages would have given me a little better
deal, but I can't imagine a whole lot better price.

I'm going in the day after tomorrow unless someone here on the net
has a better suggestion, or has a dis-recommendation for Tassy's.

Mike

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: sircomp@bcarh289.bnr.ca (Brian Magee)
Subject: Re: The FIRE breathing bug!  Help!clo
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 93 21:13:16 GMT

In article <1993Jan25.151708.63170@cc.usu.edu> slhmz@cc.usu.edu writes:
>> Ahh yes.. the reason that I will NEVER sell my '71 Super.. may not be
>> worth much now... but it's a great car that has seen a lot of my sweat in 
>> restoring/customizing it! I'd love to have a steel-sunroof in mine!
>> Just a question.. where is this '72 from? I thought that all supers
>> had the 1600 engines? Or is this not the original engine?
>
>Nope!  It's not the original engine.  I bought the car yesterday, took it
>home, pulled the engine (in only 15 minutes) and pulled off the heads.
>
>The valves were like push rods!  No cap what-so-ever!
>
>There is something else strange with this super-beetle as well.
>It has a flat windsheild!  I thought that all supers had angled windscreens!
>Whats the deal?  NO work has EVER been done on this car, from what I can see
>and from what the previos owner says.

Ahh.. not so! I have a 1971 Super as I said.. '70, '71, and '72 Supers had
flat windsheilds... all the good looks of a standard bug but with slightly
better handling up front... and some had disk brakes I do believe...
the '72 had a bigger rear-window and 4 sets of slots on the rear deck
and not 2, as in the '70 and '71 models. And from the spec sheets, the 
'71 Super had the most stock Horse Power of any 1600 air-cooled VW engine
made.. a whopping 65 HP! It went down to (I think) 50 or so the next year
(but I don't know why.. emmisions perhaps?) 

>
>Plans for the engine (currently stock 1500):
>
>   1641cc bore
>   .009 distributer
>   041 heads
>
>Also, has anybody had any dealings with 4 star engine company?
>I was thinking about getting there 1641cc Engine Rebuild Kit.
>
>Also, should I get a new clutch, or will the stock handle the extra?
>
>--
>Travis Carter
>   
> 
>>>
>>>-- 
>>>Dion Hollenbeck                        Email: hollen@megatek.com
>>>Senior Software Engineer                      megatek!hollen@uunet.uu.net
>>>Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California    ucsd!megatek.uucp!hollen
>> 
>> 
>> 		Rob
>> 
>> --
>> ---
>> "We are sorry, the .sig you have reached is no longer in service"

later...
			Rob

--
---
"We are sorry, the .sig you have reached is no longer in service"
From: gt7460c@prism.gatech.EDU (SHERIDAN,BRADLEY RYAN)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: K&N Air filter
Date: 27 Jan 93 02:44:11 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology


  Thanks to all the help on choosing a muffler last month. After finding out 
the prices on the Gillette and Liestritz, I decided to try the Supertrapp. It
is very loud! Fortunately, I usually can't hear it( the 600 watt stereo helps).
  For anybody looking at springs/shocks, I found Suspension Techniques/KYB's
for $400 installed from BMVW in Palmetto,GA. They handle great, but don't ride
as comfortably as stock.
  I just got a K&N Air filter the other day. The directions recomend using some
special oil on the filter(Which they sell...separately). Will this make much
difference? Is there an inexpensive locally available substitute?

Thanks for any advice:)
Brad

-- 
SHERIDAN,BRAD
Georgia Institute of Technology, Atlanta Georgia, 30332
uucp:	  ...!{decvax,hplabs,ncar,purdue,rutgers}!gatech!prism!gt7460c
Internet: gt7460c@prism.gatech.edu
From: amiller@almaden.ibm.com (Alex Miller)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: (w) '83 Rabbit - hole on top of my intake manifold
Date: 25 Jan 1993 12:54:28 -0600
Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu

I just got my '83 Rabbit GTI back from a 90K-mile major service.
The engine compartment was cleaned/degreased a little, and it was
easy for me to notice a 1/16" spot on the intake manifold, on top
of the runner leading to #2 cylinder.  On closer examination, it
wasn't a spot, but A TINY HOLE.  It was just large enough for me
to stick a coat hanger wire in it.

My engine is so noisy, that I can't say I noticed any vacuum leak
sounds when I drove it.  And I didn't notice that my idle was
particularly low.

I covered the hole with a bit black "racers" tape, then started
the car to see how it ran.  Now that I was paying attention, the
idle seemed much too low (around 400-500 rpm.)

I have a few questions:

(1) Do intake manifolds eventually get holes in them?

(2) Could this hole be caused by corrosion due to chemical cleaning?
    I.E. - could the shop have leave strong cleaning agents on
    the car for too long, or not washed them off properly, causing
    this hole?

(3) Is there something I can use to seal up this hole?
    The intake manifold probably gets hot - 300+degrees-F

thanks,

Alex
amiller@almaden.ibm.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: haasnr@ucunix.san.uc.edu (Nicholas Robert Haas)
Subject: [W] Jetta GLI Thermostat??
Keywords: Thermostat Jetta GLI
Organization: University of Cincinnati
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 15:07:07 GMT

I left a message about a week ago about the temp on my 85 Jetta GLI.. 230
for normal driving in the winter seems a little high to me and I was wondering
what I could do about it...   I never had to mess with my old GTI's temperature
it was always about 160-170 or so...   So I dont know much about the cooling
system.. I assume the motor has a standard thermostat that opens according 
to coolant temp..  Is there somewhere that I could buy a thermostat that 
opens under lower temperatures? Or opens wider??  Would this solve my problem
and do I even have a problem??  Any help would be appreciated...

Also the guy who replied to my previous message (I cant remember his name)
mentioned a small mailing for the Jetta GLI newsletter or something and asked
if I wanted my name on the list.. Well I do, but when I replied to your 
message the return address was bad and it never got to you..  If you read
this letter, either add me to your list or E-Mail me.. Thanks..

 


-- 
---===>>> Nick <<<===---
haasnr@ucunix.san.uc.edu
------------------------

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: sircomp@bcarh289.bnr.ca (Brian Magee)
Subject: Re: The FIRE breathing bug!  Help!clo
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 93 21:27:40 GMT

In article <1993Jan25.151708.63170@cc.usu.edu> slhmz@cc.usu.edu writes:
>> Ahh yes.. the reason that I will NEVER sell my '71 Super.. may not be
>> worth much now... but it's a great car that has seen a lot of my sweat in 
>> restoring/customizing it! I'd love to have a steel-sunroof in mine!
>> Just a question.. where is this '72 from? I thought that all supers
>> had the 1600 engines? Or is this not the original engine?
>
>Nope!  It's not the original engine.  I bought the car yesterday, took it
>home, pulled the engine (in only 15 minutes) and pulled off the heads.
>
>The valves were like push rods!  No cap what-so-ever!
>
>There is something else strange with this super-beetle as well.
>It has a flat windsheild!  I thought that all supers had angled windscreens!
>Whats the deal?  NO work has EVER been done on this car, from what I can see
>and from what the previos owner says.
>

Ahh.. not so! I have a 1971 Super as I said.. '70, '71, and '72 Supers had
flat windsheilds... all the good looks of a standard bug but with slightly
better handling up front... and some had disk brakes I do believe...
the '72 had a bigger rear-window and 4 sets of slots on the rear deck
and not 2, as in the '70 and '71 models. And from the spec sheets, the
'71 Super had the most stock Horse Power of any 1600 air-cooled VW engine
made.. a whopping 65 HP! It went down to (I think) 50 or so the next year
(but I don't know why.. emmisions perhaps?)


>Plans for the engine (currently stock 1500):
>
>   1641cc bore
>   .009 distributer
>   041 heads
>
>Also, has anybody had any dealings with 4 star engine company?
>I was thinking about getting there 1641cc Engine Rebuild Kit.
>
>Also, should I get a new clutch, or will the stock handle the extra?
>
>--
>Travis Carter
>   
> 
>>>
>>>-- 
>>>Dion Hollenbeck                        Email: hollen@megatek.com
>>>Senior Software Engineer                      megatek!hollen@uunet.uu.net
>>>Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California    ucsd!megatek.uucp!hollen
>> 
>> 
>> 		Rob
>> 
>> --
>> ---
>> "We are sorry, the .sig you have reached is no longer in service"

later...
			Rob
--
---
"We are sorry, the .sig you have reached is no longer in service"
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: seymour@bnr.ca (Jeffrey Seymour)
Subject: Re: Fact or Dealer B.S. - You be the Judge
Reply-To: seymour@bnr.ca (Jeffrey Seymour)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 93 13:51:54 GMT

Computer memory chips for a transmission?

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm.  I doubt it. I have a 91 passat and have not heard a thing about any I.C. regulating transmission.

As far fetched as this may seem, it could be that a dealer representative has actually lied to you.  Can you believe it? 

Hey, this may be a good time to solicit some of those personal horror stories people have had with dealers. 

I am sure everybody has had some experience in this area.

Come on now.  Get it off your chest.  You'll feel much better...
From: riggert@mott.seas.ucla.edu (Eric F. Riggert)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Is this a reasonable price for a '76 Bug?
Summary: MONEY, help, opinions wanted!
Date: 27 Jan 93 18:59:19 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: SEASnet, University of California, Los Angeles

A friend of mine is looking at a 1976 Bug for $1300.

Is this a reasonable price?  Seems a little high to me, unless
this thing is some kind of show car... (which I doubt).  Here
in LA, the average Super Beetle is at least 2 colors and more
than likely has primer over the engine compartment to cover 
where the paint was previously burnt off....

Seriously, I haven't seen this car and all I know about it is
that it looks 'OK' and has a radio/tape player.  Further options
are pretty irrelevant in a car of this type since its selling
price has probably pretty much bottomed out anyway.  

My friend is (like me) a starving student, in need of basic 
transportation to get to UCLA for basically as little money as
possible.

Opinions (good bad or ugly) would be appreciated.  Reply or
e-mail me at 'riggert@seas.ucla.edu'

THANKS!!!
--= Eric =--

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: bill@tss.com (Bill Castellano)
Subject: Re: GTIs good only at high revs?
Organization: Teknekron Software Systems, Inc.
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 18:21:36 GMT

In article <1k3021INN112@bnsgd245.bnr.co.uk> drew@bnr.co.uk (Scooby Doo) writes:
>In article <C1FIE1.DxC@apollo.hp.com> heff@apollo.HP.COM () writes:
>>
>>I'm buying an '87 GTI from a guy who claims that the gearing ratios
>>they set up for the GTIs are such that you need to rev the engine
>>pretty high to get it to go anywhere.  
>>
>>Now, I'm buying the car anyway, cuz I love it so much, and it's a good
>>deal, but I'm wondering if this is a nice myth to protect gunked-up
>>fuel injectors.  In the test drive, it was only happy starting from a 


>	My GTi (82') has plenty of power to get 'off the line' at low
>RPM, though I think it may depend on driving habits to what you compare
>it to. I don't often use more than 2000 rpm to start.
>
>	Its true of the higher end though, the engine really starts to
>surge at 4000 rpm and goes right up to 6000. Of course, take it to the end
>line (6300?) in one gear, drop to the next and you're at 4000 again....

this is no garbage... the 16v engines have little power until they really start
to spin. at 4400 rpm the butterfly gate opens up and those beautiful  intake
runners finally get to do something. then, the power whooshes up and you get
some nice acceleration. the gti is geared higher so that you get some power
wherever you are (which is usually higher than normal, thanks to vw.) also,
most
16v engines are like this, they develop power pretty late in the curve.

name a few other cars that rev at 4000 at 70mph in 5th gear....

bill


-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
bill castellano / teknekron software systems / elan / gti 16v /bill@tss.com
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
me                us                           fast   slower   slowest