From: ed@Tekelec.gecko.uucp (Ed Campbell)
Subject: some answers to Q's
Originator: ed@rover
Organization: Tekelec Inc
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1992 20:31:01 GMT

Richard Wozniak asks:

1.      Best Current Big Twin Frame Is....
	A lot depends on personal preference and how you
use the bike. Many HD dealers (unlike the imports) will
let you take a test ride. I suppose this is because the
HD dealers know you will realize how good their product
really is, and the other dealers know that too (only how
good theirs isn't).
	Vibration is so slight on the Softtail that I find
a need to drag my foot once in a while to make sure I'm
not in a vertual reality simulator. But then, I'm used to
riding a hotrod Sportster and a hardtail Panhead. The rubber
mounted engine types are smoother than a BMW.
	Aftermarket frames tend to be too flexable and some
are dangerous. Use these only for show.

2.      Best Size Front Wheel Is...
        ..dependant on where and how you ride and what you
like to look at. The total diameter of 16", 18", 19" and 21"
wheel assemblies are about the same because of the tire sizes
normally used, the trade-offs are realy on the behavior of the
tire.  The 21" gives a better ride in rough stuff because of
the reduced unsprung weight. The 16" rides better on normal
pavement and pothole free gravel because the tire absorbs
small irregularities. The 5.00-5.10/16 is more stable than
the 2.75/21 because of the greater weight and larger "footprint",
so the 21" rim will be more nimble. On dry pavement, the 16"
will probably have better traction because of the larger contact
area. This may also be true (at least it feels like it) on dry
slippery surfaces. The 21" will probably have less tendancy to
hydroplane because of the greater weight/area ratio.
       The 18" and 19" rims offer a compromise between the 2
extremes, more low speed stability than 21", more nimble than
16", etc.

3       Which set of forks works best on the FXST?
      Up to a point, the springer will ride smoother because
the "striction" (sticking + friction) of telescopic forks
does not exist. The springer and superglide looking fork on the
FXSTC will handle a little quicker while the hydraglide on the
FLST is more stable. (see rim/tire size above)

4.      What makes for a good  go fast Harley?
      1. Take off the damned Jap carburator and throw it as far
away as possible. Just about anything will work better. Even the
old Linkert may not be as fast, but it WILL work better! SU,
Del' Orto, S&S, and even the good ol' Bendix can go faster and
longer. For general riding and occasional red light-red light,
S&S and Bendix work well, the SU does too, but it sticks way
out and causes leg cramps. Del' Orto is good for drag and lakes
racing, but tends to be a bit much for street riding. The SU
does well for road racing because of the constant vacuum feature.
There are 5 or 6 fuel injection systems on the market that are
probably good, but expensive. one is field programmable so you
can completely redo your intake system for touring dragging etc.
by downloading a file from a PC.
      2. Cam: There are too many good hot cams available to list.
If you get an engine built, trust the judgement of the builder,
he has most likely experimented and has an idea of what works well
with what he is doing.
     3. Ignition: At least change control modules to get a hotter
advance profile and higher (needs stronger valve springs!) over
rev cutoff point. A magneto is even better. If nothing else,
when the cop that's trying to catch you shoots you in the battery,
the engine keeps running. Some like Hunt, some like Morris. They
are about equal.
Dual plug ignition is worth the price if you want to go fast. They
get a little better gas mileage too.
     4. Ports, pipes, etc: The more air/fuel that goes in and the
more burnt mixture that comes out, the more power you get.
     5. Stroker kits, big bore: As racer brown used to say, the
only substitute for cubic inches is more cubic inches. Stick to
the "name" brands, T&O or S&S. Other kits may be just as good,
but you won't know untill it's too late. I've been trying for a
long time to get someone to try adapting barrels from a Lycoming
O-360 aircraft engine (5.25" bore) to a Harley bottom end, but
I guess nobody thinks they can handle a 172" bike.
      6. Data: There are more books out than bikes. Buy a copy of
Easy Riders magazine and get their address from the index page.
they publish a number of how to books.


	Ed Campbell
'57 FL (560,000 mi, 3 rebuilds)
'76 XLCH (136,000 mi, 1st rebuild comming up)
My other car is a '54 Harley Servicar.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
        "The reason they let them import them damn Limey
         bikes is so you stupid kids won't fuck up a good
         harley when you crash"
			Anon. June 1957
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