HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: chaoluo@northstar.dartmouth.edu (Chao Luo)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Seeking Advices on Buying Used Pick-Up
Date: 14 Oct 92 05:19:48 GMT
Article-I.D.: dartvax.1992Oct14.051948.19167
Organization: Project NORTHSTAR, Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH


I am planning to buy a used small-size pick-up to replace my
poor car. I assume pick-up is different from car, so, from this net,
I'd like to get some advices on how to do the test-driving and what
kind of things, be it good or bad, I should look out for.
A general idea about which make is better or the best in terms of
the ratio of quality to price will also be helpful.
BTW, the pick-up I plan to buy will be 2wd with an ExtraCab (X-cab,
or Spacecab) and have a reasonable good gas-milage.
Thanks in advance.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: "Gary A. Woodward" <p00140@psilink.com>
Subject: electronic rustproofing.
Organization: Performance Systems Int'l
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 16:00:42 GMT
X-Mailer: PSILink (3.2)

What a tremendous resource this is!  Does anyone have any experience 
with electronic rustproofing device for cars.  The supplier says (naturally)
that it is currently used on bridges and heavy equipment in salt mines.  
Is this product based on a sound foundation of research.  Or is it just 
something else to sell the public?  Could it hurt my on board computer 
in car?  

thanks in advance from the third disneyland-Washington,DC.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: Calling F-body Suspension experts
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 18:38:52 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

In article <5608@ssc-bee.ssc-vax.boeing.com> simnet@ssc-vax.boeing.com (Mark R Poulson) writes:
>
>A very common problem. The things to do would be:
>
>	Remove the rear antisway bar (very important).

 I'm curious why this improves things; I have had cars without rear sway
bars behave in the same manner. The axle tries to twist -against- the body
and I would expect the stabilizer bar to counter this and maintain a 
flatter axle attitude and better contact. What is the theory behind this?
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mgrayson@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Mark F Grayson)
Subject: 81 Jeep 258 Idle Problem
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 15:44:17 GMT

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: 81 Jeep 258 Idle Problem
Summary:
Followup-To:
Distribution: world
Organization: The Ohio State University

Background Info: 81 CJ-7, 106K miles, new coil, new fuel filter, manual 
trans, no AC, no power brakes.

Problem Description: Starts and runs when cold, but it sounds rough, as if it
were missing every so often.  As the idle speed falls the engine runs rougher.
The only way I can keep it running when the engine is warm is by turning up
the idle.  Will not idle below ~900 RPMs.

Looking for suggestions. Carb problem? Vacuum leaks?  Other???  Any help would
be greatly appreciated!  Thanks!!

********************* mgrayson@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu  *********************
 When you see a ball of light in your rearview mirror approaching at warp speed
 you're not supposed to just sit there, you get the hell out of the way!
                   Have you driven over a Ford ... Lately ?                  
*******************************************************************************
From: stecz@pencom.com (John Steczkowski)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: HELP!!!!!!  Engine Knock in '92 MAZDA MPV
Date: 14 Oct 92 14:39:14 GMT
Reply-To: stecz@pencom.com
Distribution: austin
Organization: Pencom Software

In article <1992Oct13.162907.6034@samba.oit.unc.edu> Bob.Smith@bbs.oit.unc.edu  
(Bob Smith) writes:
> 
> Help netters,
> 
> Well after 9K glorious miles the engine on my MPV has begun to knock.
> It's from within the block, despite what the various moronic dealerships
> say.  Just to be contrary and confuse themselves further, the service
> manager at the local dealership says:
> 
> 	"They all do that!  It's piston slap, because Mazda went to a
> 	 short skirt piston design 2 years ago."
> 
> Anyone have any knowledge or experience with this.  My mechanic says
> it's either piston slap, rod knock or possibly valve train problems.
> Mazda has already changed all the hydraulic lash adjusters (aka
> lifters), and I believe the problem actually got worse after that.
> No performance problems exist, although the vehicle has never gotten
> close to EPA guesstimates.
> 
> I'm at a loss here, as any of the above problems are serious in my way
> of thinking, as well as pissing me off to no extent.  A new vehicle with
> 9K miles.  Can you believe it?
> 
> All help is appreciated, plus anyone gone "to the rug" with new car
> problems, ie. arbitration or legal action?
> 
> thanks very much,
> 
> bob
> (205)544-3263

My MPV had a problem with what I thought was valves ticking.  Although my van  
has 73,000 miles on it, the dealer replaced all the lifters and a redesigned  
part related to keeping the lifters pumped up (hydraulic lifters) under  
warranty.  About 6 months ago, I had all of the lifters replaced and it fixed  
the valve ticking for a while, but it started up again a couple of weeks ago.   
Hopefully the problem is fixed for good this time.

--
  John Steczkowski                        stecz@pencom.com
Are you truly willing to take the risk of being severely
or even fatally injured just for the thrill of roadracing?
- As Quoted from New Rider Information Booklet of the CMRA
From: walkerr@bigwpi.WPI.EDU (Robert A Walker)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: rebuilding engines
Date: 8 Oct 1992 18:50:21 GMT
Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute
NNTP-Posting-Host: bigwpi.wpi.edu

	I'm rebuilding my 351M.  Its not by choice, but since it is apart
anyway,  i might as well make what i can out of it.  What I would like 
to do is get 300 hp and 400 lb ft of torque out of.  What I am thinking
is it has to be rebored. so .030 should do it.  I want to keep the stock
compression of 8.5:1.  Is this possible to get that much power out of this 
engine?  The heads will most likely recieve a 3 angle valve grind.  IS there
anything wrong with an Edelbrock performer intake?  With a holley or Carter
600 or 650 cfm.  What is better dbl pump or vaccum secondaries?  Also I was
looking at the Crane High Energy Cams.  Any comments or better suggestions.
will i need stronger valve springs?  I'll need headers?  What kind of headers
and I was reading that there should be a cross over pipe before the mufflers
in a dual exhaust, is this corect?  Also what type of mufflers would you
suggest.  Any help or comments, good or bad is appreciated.
From: larryf@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Larry Ferreira)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Gold Spark Plugs
Date: 14 Oct 92 21:43:17 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Rosa, CA

In rec.autos.tech, awds_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (ClarkKent) writes:

>  We've hear about Bosch Platinum plugs-
>  I was looking at a auto parts store's sales brochure and
>  saw Champion Gold plugs.  I sure they're not solid gold, nor that
>  much more expensive than platinum.  Gold's a great conductor, right?
>  Any thoughts on these?

Actually gold is *relatively* a poor conductor. 

Here a list of some conductors:

  Material		Resistivity, ohm/centimeter

    Aluminum		  2.83x10^-6
    Carbon		  3.50x10^-3
    Copper,(pure)	  1.70x10^-6
    Gold		  2.44x10^-6
    Platium		  1.00x10^-5
    Silver		  1.63x10^-6

Note: The smaller the number, the better the conductor; therefore Silver
      is the best conductor in the list, and Carbon is the least.  However,
      Gold is better than Platium.  The main advantage of Gold is that
      it doesn't tarnish.  Not sure what that buys you, when it comes to
      sparkplugs.  

Anybody ever seen silver plugs?

>  Adam Edwards

Larry Ferreira
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: minor@rtsg.mot.com (Kevin Minor)
Subject: Re: Spark Plugs (SplitFire ??)
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 16:39:13 GMT

elmquist@pez.ssesco.com (Chris Elmquist) writes:

|>Or how about a brand of plugs called SplitFire..?  They apparently have
|>the electrode split or notched to allow the arc to be better exposed to
|>the fuel...   They claim all sorts of performance and fuel economy
|>enhancements... as well as a 30 day money back guarantee.  Gimick ?

Yes, please post all opinions and thoughts about SplitFire.
The guy at the local parts store raved about them and the brochure
looks impression, but I'm interested in what people think.
-- 
	/~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~\
	|	Kevin Minor	UUCP: ...uunet!mcdchg!motcid!minor	|
	|			Mail: minor@rtsg.mot.com		|
	\~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~/
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: btwomey@cbnewsj.cb.att.com (william.tw0mey)
Subject: excessive hydrocarbon emission
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 13:18:27 GMT
Summary: failed inspection, what should be done?


Here in NJ, my car failed inspection because of excessive hydrocarbon
emissions.  Thats unburned fuel, no?  If not, what?  What causes excessive
it?

Its an 86 Isuzu Imark, 1.5l carburetted, 89K miles.  (sound familiar?
A few months ago when I posted, I had bucking/no power problems.  It
was the mixture control solenoid that was flakey)

The figure was 870, the limit was 250, I don't know the scale.  The car
does not seem to consuming oil.  The plugs were dark and not dry-dry.  They
are less than 5000 miles old.  Is this an uh-oh?  Leaking valve guides
or something like that?  Wires and air filter have less than 10000 miles.

Could grungy valves be a culprit?  Is dribbling water into the intake
a good idea, to solve the problem or just for maintenance?
Would burning a different fuel, or using an "emission helping" additive
help?

Bill Twomey
-- 
bt@violin.att.com

Bill's Law on Netnews discussions:
"If a poster's name is in the Subject, its not worth reading."
From: erickson@cvdv77.mayo.edu (David L. Erickson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: John Deere 330 Info Needed
Keywords: tractor,John Deere,
Date: 16 Oct 92 18:43:17 GMT
Reply-To: ericksond@mayo.edu
Organization: Mayo Clinic, Rochester, MN


I am looking for information on a 1960's vintage John Deere 330 tractor.

This is a utility tractor with a two cylinder gas engine that I have 
been using over the past summer.  

This tractor had been stored for approximately ten years and is in fair 
condition.  I've rebuilt the starter, changed the fluids and performed 
some other basic maintenance. The tractor seems to start and run OK, 
although it leaks fluid from the transmission/PTO housing and is missing
the generator.

I would like to find a source for repair manuals and parts and I would
also like to get some idea of the dollar value of this tractor.  If the value
is not too high I might consider purchasing it.

Any help will be appreciated.

- Dave
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
David L. Erickson, Internal Medicine Systems                  VAXDEV::D.ERICKSON
2-D329 SMH                                                    ericksond@mayo.edu
Mayo Foundation, Rochester, MN 55905                          507.255.6208
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: brodesky@td2cad.intel.com (Michael Brodesky)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Removing a lock cylinder from the steering column
Date: 12 Oct 92 17:26:09 GMT
Organization: intel corporation



Some one tried to steal my Duster this past weekend. And left the
ignition switch with half the lock in it. How can I get the rest
of the lock out? I have heard of a slide hammer but have never seen
one. 

MichaeL
--
Michael Brodesky Internet Mbrodesky@sc9.Intel.com
UUCP : {pur-ee,qanad,oliveb,decwrl,hplabs}!intelca!mipos3!td2cad!brodesky
During the week I climb left to right. On weekends I climb up and down.
Rootbeer^2 = Beer ? 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: "mike knox" <mike.knox@canrem.com>
Subject: test
Reply-To: "mike knox" <mike.knox@canrem.com>
Organization: Canada Remote Systems
Distribution: rec
Date: 11 Oct 92 22:53:38 EST

Test message.

 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Mike Knox                  |     Fido: 1:229/15
    Brampton, Ontario          | Internet: mike.knox@canrem.com
    CANADA                     | RelayNet: ->CRS  (Public Key: 22319)
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

 * DeLuxe2/386 1.25 #4782 * 
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
From: Steve.Kaess@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Steve Kaess)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Need Opinion on Caravan eng./trans.
Date: Thu, 08 Oct 1992 13:55:05 -0500

 > I am considering the purchase of a Dodge Grand Caravan,
 > and I am
 > wondering what the best engine/trans combo for this vehicle.
 > According
 > to a brochure I got from my local dealer, I have 2 choices:
 >
 >        3.0 litre engine / 3 spd trans
 >        3.3 litre engine / 4 spd trans
 >
 > I have heard that the early versions of the 4 spd trans.
 > had many problems.
 > Has anyone had experience with this? Any idea how the newer
 > 4spd's are
 > holding out?  What would be the performance differences
 > between these 2
 > set-ups? Thanks for the advice!  :-)
 
The early problems with the 4 speed transaxel are now worked out, 
and the 4 speed is fine...I think you would be crazy to get the 3.0/
 
3 speed, but drive em both and YOU decide.  


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jmiller@brew.asteroids (Jeff J. Miller)
Subject: Re: motor cycle carbs on race cars
Reply-To: jmiller@network.com
Organization: Network Systems Corporation
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 92 17:57:06 GMT

In article 7994@tc.fluke.COM, damon@tc.fluke.COM (Damon Darley) writes:
>
>I am looking for people who have had experiance using Mikuni side draft
>motorcycle carbs on race cars.
>
>I am getting to the point where I have to choose between those and Webbers.
>The application is a 16 valve Nissan 2.0 liter engine that will be used
>for circle track racing.. 

Nice thought.  I've been thinking of doing this also but I haven't managed
to get any real good info yet.  Things to consider is where you get those
Mikuni's from.  If you take them off an actual motorcycle they may have a
fixed jet in them.  This can be corrected but takes time and money.  If you
end up paying big $'s it for the Mikuni it may be best to get them as shipped
from the factory instead of as shipped from some motorcycle company.

Tuning these buggers is also interresting.  Lots of little issues that control
how fast it opens, where/if an accelerator kicks in, actual flow rate?  I looked
in my motorcycle book for specs on some 32's that came off an old motorcycle but
not much was listed.  I still need to write Mikuni and pray for better info.

If you learn anything that isn't posted to the net, I'd appreciate a copy.

thanks,

Jeff



--
Jeff Miller                 Network Systems Corporation
Internetwork Group          7600 Boone Avenue North
jmiller@network.com         Minneapolis MN 55428   (612)424-4888

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: Holley Probs.
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 18:22:43 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 (650 Double-pumper with a bog problem)

 Problem #1 is that you don't need, nor want, the secondaries open until
your RPMs come up. There isn't enough vacuum when you slam the throttle
open at idle. The metering is poor because there's no signal (meaning
there's not enough air speed to make the venturis work worth a damn).
You might be able to correct some by using the spring on the accelerator
pump, changing squirters and pump volume, but the real problem is that
the double pumpers are meant for the track. Using the accelerator pump 
to correct means making the pump shot last as long as the bog interval.
The maximum shot volume is fixed. The profile is set by the spring (which
lets the shot be less intense and last longer during a fast transition)
and the accelerator pump cam. Tightening up the spring gives more up
front and less "tail" on each transition. This is a cheap thing to
fiddle with. If tightening it gives an instantaneous RPM rise when you 
punch it, followed by a flat spot and then takes off, you may be needing
more volume as well as a sharper profile. On the other hand, if your
"bog" is accompanied by a puff of soot, (have a buddy check as you drive)
then back off on the spring.

 Instead of dicking around with it, though, I'd see if you can find
someone who wants to trade you a 650 or 750CFM vacuum secondary for your
double pumper. Then mess with the secondary actuation instead.

 Alternative #3 is to learn to meter your foot, only giving the carb the
throttle it can properly use. A dash vacuum gauge will let you know how
"satisfied" the engine is. Keep it on the primaries until it starts to
flatten out instead of punching it.

-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jrp@bohra.cpg.oz.au (John Pitman)
Subject: Fule injection
Organization: Computer Power Software
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 06:36:38 GMT

Hi there
need some help again on injection. I have a Bosch (branded LUCAS!) setup. I have
some stumbles at low throttle I cant find the cause of - the old throttle pot is
on the way out (worn at low end, soldered wires tend to break off ceramic plate)
so I have tries a new one to no avail.I dont know how to set up the idle pos-
ition of the pot - can anyone help there? The symptom is almost identical with
the two pots, but not quite. The new one seems to give a harsher effect, but
basically, at around 1000-1200rpm (unloaded) there is an uneveness in the motor,
and on the road, when just coming on/off the pedal, there is a jerk with
driveline snatch/noise. It only occurs when going softly, like in traffic - you
start to move, then slow again etc. Cruising at 30k+ or accelerating or backed
right off is ok. I have looked for an air leak, but cant find anything. the
vacuum advance line holds ok, the timing moves and holds ok. The EGR line is
off (perforated diaphragm in it) and has been for a long time. Could the petrol
vapor line be feeding excess air in? (it bypasses the air flow meter). Could
the air flow itself have a problem? can I diagnose this myself?
The position of the throttle pot seems very insensitive in general - does
anybody have specs on setting them up, like idle volts or ohms??
Thanks for any help you can offer.
jp
From: harling@miki.pictel.com (Dan Harling)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Time of the day and Filling up
Date: 8 Oct 92 17:23:14 GMT
Organization: PictureTel Corporation

In article <1992Oct04.151911.36827@lobo.rmhs.colorado.edu> seanr@lobo.rmhs.colorado.edu (Sean Reifschneider) writes:
>In one of my physics classes we calculated the rate of expansion on 12 gallons
>os fule between 30 and 70 deg F, and it was several gallons.  I don't remember
>the exact numbers, though.

Too bad I can't buy all of my gasoline (by volume) in the Winter and
store it away for the Summer months...
____________________________________________________________________________
Daniel A. Harling                        (harling@pictel.com)
PictureTel Corp.             Opinions expressed are not necessarily those of
Peabody, MA  01960                 PictureTel, but they ought to be!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: elmquist@pez.ssesco.com (Chris Elmquist)
Subject: Re: oxygen sensor
Organization: SSESCO
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 21:22:51 GMT

In article <1992Oct12.170136.9121@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> chohan@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Harpal Chohan) writes:
>In article <Bw0IKw.Jw@ssesco.com> elmquist@pez.ssesco.com (Chris Elmquist) writes:
>>
>>So, the more O2, the lower the voltage out from the sensor ? Or visa-versa ?
>
>Vice-versa. The leaner the mixture, lesser the residual O2 in the exhaust,
>lesser the output voltage. Main thing to be noted is that the "V-out" vs. the
>"excess-air factor (lambda)" curve is not linear. At the optimum, the
>voltage jumps from about .25 to .75. This makes detection of deviation
>from the optimum rather easy. .25 or less indicates a lean mixture, whereas
>.75 and above shows a rich mixture.

Very good information...  It should be easy to measure this (as you
mention later)..

>
>>Mine (my engine) seems to misbehave more before it is fully warmed but
>>after it has stepped the idle down from the higher speed cold idle.  It
>>is during this warmup phase that it runs the worst.  What kind of O2
>>sensor output would be expected by the computer during this time...? is
>>the computer even looking at the O2 sensor then ?
>
>It probably is, since the cold idle phase is over. Maybe your sensor is
>old, and is not responding as fast with warming temperature as it should.
>
>There's an excellent article on oxygen sensors in the June 1992 issue of
>"Europen Car" on page 6. It's kinda' long for me to type the whole thing in,
>but here's what it has to say. (...comments...) are mine...
>

[ fantastic details carefully saved away but deleted here ]

>
>Cheers...

Thank you very much!  I will drive straight home and perform these
tests tonight :-)  Much appreciated...

Chris

Chris Elmquist, N0JCF
elmquist@SSESCO.com
73267.2711@Compuserve.com
(612)342-0003@work (8am-5pm CST6CDT)
From: Michel_Denber.WBST147@XEROX.COM
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 4w disc brakes
Date: 8 Oct 92 13:09:00 GMT


	"Why do I think this is too much money?"

Because it *is* too much money!  $970?  For pads & rotors???  Sheesh - no
wonder their name is "Midas".  I did my front brakes last year: $22 for pads
(Bendix semi-met., lifetime warranty), $32 ea. for rotors (Aimco), $4 for new
O-rings, $3 for brake fluid, total = $93.  I don't have rear discs, but the
parts cost should be similar (it may take more labor because of the parking
brake interconnects).  You ought to be able to do the whole job for $200, and
then at least you *know* it's been done right.  And that's assuming you
actually do need new rotors, which all these places will invariably say you do,
whether it's true or not.

			- Michel

denber.wbst147@xerox.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: pwu@tang.ai.mit.edu (Peng Wu)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: oxygen sensor
Date: 13 Oct 92 05:11:30 GMT
In-reply-to: elmquist@pez.ssesco.com's message of 12 Oct 92 14:22:07 GMT


    ***
    Mine (my engine) seems to misbehave more before it is fully warmed but
    after it has stepped the idle down from the higher speed cold idle.  It
    is during this warmup phase that it runs the worst.  What kind of O2
    sensor output would be expected by the computer during this time...? is
    the computer even looking at the O2 sensor then ?

If your car has a three-wire O2 sensor, it should not get cold after warmed up.  If
your car has an one-wire sensor, read on...

On a Topaz/Tempo, the computer checks if the O2 sensor (one-wire) switches
between lean and rich.  If not, the computer will assume the sensor is cold
and switch to "open loop" mode, i.e., ignoring the O2 sensor.  This is
supposedly the situation when the car is left idling for long.  I think it is
also the case when the car is just started.  The computer also ignores the O2
sensor during wide open throttle.  If your car has a one-wire O2 sensor and
your car's computer is supposed to do the same, you might want to look for
something else.