HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: mjh@cs.utexas.edu (Michael J. Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Fahrvergnugen
Date: 7 Apr 1992 16:19:36 -0500
Organization: U Texas Dept of Computer Sciences, Austin TX
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu


Actually, this experience goes back to the VW that started it all:

The Beetle!
From: tahajian@aries.East.Sun.COM (David Tahajian - Sun BOS Software)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Screeching in the rain
Date: 16 Apr 92 17:47:10 GMT
Reply-To: tahajian@east.sun.com (David Tahajian - Sun BOS Software)
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Billerica MA
NNTP-Posting-Host: aries.east.sun.com

In article <1992Apr10.194822.2004@ee.rochester.edu> Mark Sirota <msirota@socrates.ee.rochester.edu> writes:
>
>Please, if you have any contribution to make to the issue, please let me
>know.  More data points are welcome.  If this really is a problem with the
>'89 and older cars, perhaps we'll call VWoA about it.

My friend's 89 Golf (wolfsberg ed.) does it (made in Mexico).
I'll have her try to get this spalsh guard on her next service visit...
she also has the "extended" VW warrenty, I'll see if it's covered.

Thanks for getting & posting the info...

=========================================================================
Dave Tahajian                         | Mark, money is just another way  
david.tahajian@east.sun.com           | of keeping score...  
Sun Microsystems, Billerica, Ma.      |     - The Rifleman
=========================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: ac579@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (G.C.J. Timm)
Subject: Wanted Insurance Company mit Fahrvergnugen
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio, (USA)
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 92 19:51:22 GMT


OK, OK, OK!

I've looked, I've hunted, I've searched.

I don't like the rest of the field.

I want I need I desire Fahrvergnugen!

Now all I need is a Volkswagen Tolerant Insurance company!

Any Suggestions?

BTW:  Why have all the dealers run out of GTI's if VW is
doing so poorly in the USofA?

Jeff
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mikec@wam.umd.edu (Michael D. Callaghan)
Subject: Re: Re: Where VW's are made
Organization: University of Maryland at College Park
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1992 23:56:08 GMT

Here are the codes given to me from a Service Manager at Tischer VW
in Laurel, MD:

	1:	USA	(Pre-1990 Golfs, Jettas, GTIs)
	3:	Mexico	(1990+ Golfs, Jettas, GTIs)
	W:	Germany (Sciroccos, Quantums, Passats, GLIs, Corrados, Cabrios)
	9:	Brazil	(Foxes)

MikeC
-- 
I've seen Monty Python and the Holy Grail over 50 times.
I still don't know what the coconuts are for!
				-MikeC-
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: acad@dani.unh.edu (AutoCad)
Subject: Re: '75 Beetle Brake Problems
Organization: University of New Hampshire  -  Durham, NH
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1992 01:40:18 GMT


I had a similar problem with my '57 Beetle.  The brakes were fine after 
adjusting them, but once I applied them, they seemed to drag, and get
consistently tighter.  After much fiddling about I found the problem to
be the brake HOSES (the rubber not the steel).  Apparently they had swollen
internally with age.  If you haven't replaced them yet I would give it shot.

Hope This Helps.

			-Walt

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Walt Leavy      |    FAHRVERGNUGEN  forever      |  WIL_CIE786@unhh.unh.edu
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: chris@xlnt.com (Chris Bracken)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Tell us about your air-cooled VW!!
Date: 14 Apr 92 23:34:49 GMT
Organization: XLNT Designs, Inc (XDI)

The combination of this thread and the one about coolant mixing with the oil in air cooled engines prompted some fond recollections for me.  My first car was a 1958 bug, which my father had bought new.  It was originally a very nice metallic grey, but there was some problem with the paint and Volkswagen paid for a new paint job in '60 or '61.  The interior was all metal on the dash, with a very soft velour like headliner ( I was a little kid then, that's the kind of thing you notice! ).  The 58 was the fir




st year with a real gas pedal ( instead of a roller ), nice dash mount choke, 80 mph speedo with green oil pressure and red generator lights, I could go on and on...  Engine was the good old 36 horse, no 
rubber vacuum hoses, just real steel tubing for distributor.  The owners manual
was wittily written and illustrated, including some amusing cartoons about ignorant gas station attendants ( remember them ? ) assuming that the tank under the hood was for water, not gas!  No gas gauge, by the way, instead a reserve tank valve just like a motorcycle petcock.  The owners manual recommended setting 
this to the off position when parking pointed uphill.  It had to be the greatest 
feeling in the world to have the engine start sputtering, reach down with your foot and kick in the reserve tank, good for another 30 miles or so.  A slightly less satisfying but more exciting feeling was to reach down and find that the lever was ALREADY in the reserve position, heh heh, ooops....

No synchro on first gear, the older transmission had longer throws between gears but a nicer feel to the linkage IMHO.  By the time I took the car over (1970) the engine was getting a little tired, or maybe the world had sped up since '58, but it was a good experience for a new driver, planning ahead for hills, passing carefully, getting right in behind big rigs to be pulled up long grades on the interstate, etc.   Naturally I wanted some tunes in my car, but nobody made a 6 volt 8 track!  Had some kind of




 6 to 12 converter installed under the back seat finally, and I could sing along... eventually ( 115 K miles ) the engine threw a valve, and I put in a 40 HP from a 64, added extractor exhaust and Bosch 009 distributor, running without benefit of a tach managed to extend the rpm range about 500 above the point at which the little split keeper on the valve stem came loose.  Eventually I tired of the lack of power and weak brakes ( those narrow little drums ! ), and the car passed on to an impovrished buddy 




just out of law school.  I have owned several VeeDubs since ( 70 bug, 76 rabbit, 79 rabbit diesel, 87 vanagon ) but I would love to get that car back, it was the best of all.


				Chris
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: thk@sgi.com (Tom Kong)
Subject: Re: Golf/Jetta Stress Bar Review....
Organization: Silicon Graphics Inc., Mountain View, CA
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1992 17:44:36 GMT

In article <10APR199200194972@zeus.tamu.edu> jmm2948@zeus.tamu.edu (Jeffrey M. Mayzurk) writes:
>
>If you have an earlier A1 car, buy the lower stress bar first -- it will make
>the most difference.  The upper bar is a good upgrade, but I would suggest
>swaybars and shocks/springs first.  If you have already upgraded the rest of
>your suspension, it's a good finishing touch.  Additionally, for those of us
>who like to use our sport suspensions, you might notice some cracking around
>the upper strut mounts -- if you do, the stress bar will prevent this from
>getting any worse.
>
>
>Jeffrey M. Mayzurk
>
>jmm2948@zeus.tamu.edu


I have an A2 car ('86 gti).  I first noticed the cracking near the upper
strut mount when the car was barely a year old (15K miles plus one or
two driving schools).

Now at 6 years and 78K miles (about 10 autoxes and over 900 miles of
track use), the cracks haven't really gotten worse.  I suspect they
are just paint cracks from chassis flex.  Nothing too structural I hope.
I don't have a stress bar, just a set of Koni Sports.

/tom
From: mjh@cs.utexas.edu (Michael J. Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Tell us about your Air-cooled VW!!!
Date: 16 Apr 1992 14:56:18 -0500
Organization: U Texas Dept of Computer Sciences, Austin TX
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu

In article <uzr11d.1@WORK1.RHRZ.UNI-BONN.DE> uzr11d@WORK1.RHRZ.UNI-BONN.DE (Matthias Wingenbach -Raum 201- Tel. 3129) writes:
>Hallo!
>My Volkswagen was made april 1961. I do not know how to work on it.
>I only enjoy to have and to drive a VW.
>
>Mattias


Not to mention it gives one an excuse to start collecting all the cool
VW toys out there!
From: keys@csrc.ncsl.nist.gov (Larry Keys)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Re: Where VW's are made
Date: 13 Apr 92 19:31:30 GMT
Organization: National Institute of Standards and Technology

In article <1992Apr9.235608.9907@wam.umd.edu> mikec@wam.umd.edu (Michael D. Callaghan) writes:
>Here are the codes given to me from a Service Manager at Tischer VW
>in Laurel, MD:
>
>	1:	USA	(Pre-1990 Golfs, Jettas, GTIs)
>	3:	Mexico	(1990+ Golfs, Jettas, GTIs)
>	W:	Germany (Sciroccos, Quantums, Passats, GLIs, Corrados, Cabrios)
>	9:	Brazil	(Foxes)
>
>MikeC
>-- 
>I've seen Monty Python and the Holy Grail over 50 times.
>I still don't know what the coconuts are for!
>				-MikeC-

Hi Mike,

Now i am really confused.  Originally i thought that my Jetta GLI 1990 was made
in Mexico.  As a matter of fact i did a post before lunch saying that i had
owned German (87 Jetta GLI), Brazilian (90 Fox), and Mexican (90 Jetta GLI).
However, at lunch time about 1 hr ago i looked at my VIN#.  It begins WVW.
So i looked in the door jamb (sp?) and it says Germany.  I can't remember
where i got the initial idea that it was made in Mexico.  Now i am not
certain.





                                                   .              
                                                 /                
Larry                            __/    ______ /                  
keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov       /                \                 
                         _ _ _      __      _____  \------- ===   
            ---------- /  __ /    /  /    /__  __/            \   
         /            /  / ____  /  /       / /                |  
        |            / /___/  / /  /__   __/ /__              /   
        /_____       \______/  /_____ / /______/        --- ////   
             \_____           2 liter 16v       \_______/         
                                                                              
        Fahrvergnugen forever!

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: finnegan@corsair.navo.navy.mil (Kenneth Finnegan)
Subject: Coolant Light 
Reply-To: finnegan@navo.navy.mil
Organization: Grumman Data Systems	
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1992 16:09:10 GMT
Nntp-Posting-Host-[nntpd-3260]: corsair.navo.navy.mil

Ah, summer is returning to the Gulf Coast, and with it my
only remaining problem on my '86 GLI.  The recent thread
regarding the flickering coolant light made me think of this.

On hot days, when I start my car, my coolant light does NOT
flicker, and the temp guage stays all the way down.  In other
words, it does not come on at all.  Then, as soon as I hit a
significant bump in the road, the light flickers and the guage
comes on as if it has just been switched on.  Now, this would
indicate to me a loose connection.  The strange thing is, I 
would think a loose connection would eventually go off again.
But it doesn't.  When it finally comes on, it does not go off
again, even if I hit another bump (until I shut the car off
again, obviously).               I have checked the
connections in all of the obvious places, except on the
back of the dash, which is a real pain to get to.  

If anyone has any ideas or has experienced a similar problem,
please let me know.

Thanks,

Kenneth
finnegan@navo.navy.mil
From: gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca (Andy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Seatbelt Light
Date: 8 Apr 92 15:03:46 GMT
Distribution: dal
Organization: Math, Stats & CS, Dalhousie University, Halifax, NS, Canada

In <31170012@hpspkla.spk.hp.com> borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski) writes:

>In rec.autos.vw, jimk@wpi.WPI.EDU (James Matthew Kokernak) writes:

>>Hello,
>>
>>I just recently bought an '87 Jetta GL, with passive restraints. These
>>shoulder belts disconnect at the doors, but the car will not start
>>with them disconnected...this is a safety feature. My question is:
>>sometimes when I am driving, the seatbelt light goes on. If I wiggle 
>>the connection at the door, the light will go out. I've never had
>>the car not start because of a poor connection in this module, so my
>>only problem is that it is annoying to see this light go on when I'm
>>driving at night. I could just take the bulb out, but I would rather 
>>look for a better solution.

>You can either fix the switch in the shoulder belt buckle, or you can
>bypass it.

>The bypass is simple.  When you open the door, near the location of the
>hinges, there is a wire running from the body to the door.  Cut the wire,
>and strip back the insulation on the wire (which is really a pair of wires).
>Twist together the pair of wires, and then tape them up, or put a wire nut
>on them.  Note:  Do the work on the part of the wiring going to the body
>after this wire is cut.  Doing on the part going to the door won't work.

>You say your power windows don't work anymore?  Woops.  Wrong wire.  But
>if you don't have any power gadgets in the door, the seat belt switch
>will the the only wire there.


>Donald Borowski    WA6OMI    Hewlett-Packard, Spokane Division
>"Angels are able to fly because they take themselves so lightly."
>                                       -G.K. Chesterton

I have an 85 GTI and I hated the seatbelt buzzer and light whenever I turn
the key. What I did, I disconneced the wire going from under the seat to
the floor. It is like that beacuse the seatbelt clip is attached to the seat.
I never heard a buzzer or light again. And if you want, you can reclip the
wires when you sell the car. The reason for this clip is so you can take the 
seat out. And you will not mess up any other power devices by cutting some
mysterious wires. Well, at least it worked on my car..
And, yes I do wear seat belts all the time!!!

-- 
ANdy ***********************************************************************
     ___                     "Igoddago, Takideezy & Guluk"        
    /...\___           gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca     goaway@ac.dal.ca
   |-O----O->
From: dali@byron.u.washington.edu (insane)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Tell us about your air-cooled VW!!!
Date: 8 Apr 92 14:45:27 GMT
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle

As for me, air-cooled is where it's at!:
	1) my current machine; 1972 Type 3 Squareback 
	2) my sister's; 1969 Type 3 Fastback
	3) my dream; 1967(?) Type 3 coupe, as they are rare (42,000 made)
generally cool and next to a Type 3 notchback and a Type 4 four-door Fastback
probably the funkiest looking of the air-cooleds...
	Y'all ought to see our house: between my roomates and I it's
Farfarnugen-ville! Two Type 3's, a 74 Westfalia, 76 weekender, plus a diesel Jetta and a Vanagon...
 	drive on!   
	anybody have a Type 4 four door fastback around???
insane
.
:wq
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: brennan@coco.cchs.su.oz.au (Luke Brennan)
Subject: Re: Spring is here...
Organization: Cumberland College of Health Sciences
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 20:23:15 GMT

In article <drew.3@csmail.cs.uoguelph.ca>, drew@csmail.cs.uoguelph.ca (Andrew MacPherson) writes:
> This is really nothing more than a test... And an opportunity to say:
> 
> VW Rules!
> 
	Spring is NOT here :-(  brrr.... it's freezing!!
	it got down to (gasp!) 65f the other night... ohmygod.. 
 
+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+
+ Luke Brennan                             e-mail: brennan@coco.cchs.su.oz.AU +
+ EDP Unit, S209                                   lukeb@casino.cchs.su.oz.AU +
+                                    brennan%coco.cchs.su.oz.au@cunyvm.BITNET +
+ Cumberland College of Health Sciences,                              ,-_|\   +
+ The University of Sydney                  voice: +61 2 646 6402    /     \  +
+ East Street, Lidcombe, NSW 2141             fax: +61 2 646 4853    \_,-._*  +
+ AUSTRALIA                                                               v   +
+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+
From: alvin@bmerh327.bnr.ca (Alvin Yeung)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: OPINIONS WANTED ON 1992 VW GOLF
Keywords: vw golf
Date: 14 Apr 92 17:16:43 GMT
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Ottawa, Canada

In article <1992Apr14.004430.16325@leland.Stanford.EDU> ed@sun-valley.Stanford.EDU (Edward Wilson) writes:
>I'm considering buying a new 1992 VW Golf (5 speed, 4 door)
>

You might want to wait until the fall.  There will
be a new generation of Golfs coming out.  Interior
is much better, IMO.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: beaubien@westford.ccur.com (Mark Beaubien)
Subject: Re: aftermarket pop tops
Keywords: aftermarket pop tops
Organization: Concurrent Computer Corp. Westford MA.
Distribution: rec.autos.vw
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1992 15:29:49 GMT

>On a similar note how does VW deal with A/C and pop tops in post 86 vanagons.
>I got A/C and have a duct running from back to front in the middle of the 
>ceiling.  Do they reroute it or what?  I was thinking I could go with two
>smaller holes on either side of the duct, but, they might be too small.   

Well, I have a '87 Camper, and yes, the AC is a bit different, actually, a
lot different.  They tucked everything above the rear window area (and
yes, it does block the upper part of the rear window visibility).  You
should go to a VW dealer and take a look at how a '91 Camper looks.  They
modified the location of the cooler coils a bit, but it will enlighten
or discourage you.  Oh, the system works OK but since it has so many
long tubes and fittings the freon tends to leak out in the winter which
requires a recharge.  I hate this because it is not good for the environ-
ment but I have had no luck in finding the leaks.  I spoke with another
87 Vanagon camper owner and he said he found a leak in front, near the 
radiator/heat exchanger.  I bought mine used and have only recharged it
once.  I love my camper but I would have to say the AC system in general
is full of engineering compromises.
Good luck with the conversion!
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Mark Beaubien, Design Engineer      | Voice   +1-508-392-2475
Concurrent Computer Corp.           | Fax     +1-508-392-2492
1 Technology Way                    | Home    +1-508-448-5894
Westford, MA 01886                  | UUCP     uunet!masscomp!beaubien
USA                                 | Internet beaubien@westford.ccur.com
                                    | RF: PBBS WA1YDB@KA2QHD.NJ.USA.NA
From: BHH100@psuvm.psu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: 2002 ENGINE KILLER, SPARKLERS
Date: 6 Apr 92 21:19:30 GMT
Article-I.D.: psuvm.92097.171930BHH100
Organization: Penn State University


     IF YOU'VE REALLY CHECKED EVERYTHING OUT IN THE IGNITION, TRY A COMPRESSION
 TEST TO VERIFY COMPRESSION.  YOU MAY HAVE "VAPOR-LOCKED" THE ENGINE, NOT TERMI
NAL BY ANY MEANS SO DON'T WORRY.  IF  NOTHING ELSE WORKS FOR YOU SHOOT THE CARB
 WITH ETHER.
From: vol@northbeach.Corp.Sun.COM (Volney Spalding)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: What the $#&! is with the oil??
Date: 9 Apr 92 17:12:17 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Mt. View, Ca.
NNTP-Posting-Host: northbeach.corp.sun.com

>
>Now I'm posting this:
>
>I looked on my dip stick and it looked like I need to add oil. So I open up
>the cap, look at it and say a few nasty words. The cap was all white on the
>inside! I look through the hole and see it all over inside. The white stuff
>is a dirty milky color, Very light gray. It feels like oil. i.e. It is NOT
>in clumps or like jello. 
>
>1) What the &%$# is that stuff? Any specific type of sludge?
>2) What made it appear? Do I heave a leak somewhere and some stuff is reacting
>	with it?
>3) How do you get rid of it? Any engine cleaners out there? 
>4) Should I use a different type of oil? How do I make sure it does not 
>	appear again?
>
When I have seen what you described it's been a function of water
mixing in with the oil somehow.  Usually a tiny leak in the head
gasket (if you're lucky) or a crack in the head or block (if
you're not).

Good luck.

Vol



--
	++++++++	++++++++	++++++++	++++++++
Volney Spalding			  "And the next question's for you Karl
vol@northbeach.Corp.Sun.COM	   Marx:  A struggle of class against class
Sun Microsystems 		   is a *what* struggle, a *what* struggle?"
From: javiegas@grad04.math.ncsu.edu (James A. Viegas)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Where VW's Come From
Keywords: VIN numbers
Date: 9 Apr 92 02:09:30 GMT
Organization: North Carolina State University

In article <1992Apr8.202439.28404@wpi.WPI.EDU> jimk@wpi.WPI.EDU (James Matthew Kokernak) writes:
>
>
>Since this discussion has started, I had some email that has prompted me
>to find out where these cars actually come from. This is what I was told
>when I called a local VW dealership.
>
>As of now...All Jettas, Golfs, and GTI's are assembled in Mexico. Their 
>            VIN begins with 3VW.
>
>            All Passats are made in Germany. Their VIN begins with W.
>
>            Some VW's are assembled in U.S.A. Their VIN begins with the 
>            number 1.
>
>            Essentially W -> Germany
>                        1 -> U.S.A.
>                        3 -> Mexico
>
>I wouldn't be suprised if the number of complaints about a VW was 
>directly proportional to where it was assembled.
>
>Some people have disputed this, but the W is the common denominator
>in all the other German cars, BMW, AUDI, MERCEDES, etc., so I still
>believe that if your VW VIN begins with W, it is from Germany, despite
>claims otherwise. I could still be wrong, and if so, please let me know.
>I'm still hoping that my Jetta is from Germany!
>
>--Jim

Guess what?   If you look on the doorjam (I believe that what you call it), it says
where the car was assembled.  

Every VW that I've checked (7 or so) has conformmed to the chart above.
I`m interested in knowing where the cars with the most problems are coming from, Mexico?
Of the 4 or so people (including myself) that have cars from Germany or the PA plant,
none of us have had any serious problem (other than normal wear and tear) and we have
driven our cars hard over the past few years.
-----------
javiegas@math.ncsu.edu
-------------
From: borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 15:16:12 GMT
Subject: Re: Seatbelt Light
Organization: Hewlett Packard Company, Spokane, Wa.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw

In rec.autos.vw, jimk@wpi.WPI.EDU (James Matthew Kokernak) writes:

>Hello,
>
>I just recently bought an '87 Jetta GL, with passive restraints. These
>shoulder belts disconnect at the doors, but the car will not start
>with them disconnected...this is a safety feature. My question is:
>sometimes when I am driving, the seatbelt light goes on. If I wiggle 
>the connection at the door, the light will go out. I've never had
>the car not start because of a poor connection in this module, so my
>only problem is that it is annoying to see this light go on when I'm
>driving at night. I could just take the bulb out, but I would rather 
>look for a better solution.

You can either fix the switch in the shoulder belt buckle, or you can
bypass it.

The bypass is simple.  When you open the door, near the location of the
hinges, there is a wire running from the body to the door.  Cut the wire,
and strip back the insulation on the wire (which is really a pair of wires).
Twist together the pair of wires, and then tape them up, or put a wire nut
on them.  Note:  Do the work on the part of the wiring going to the body
after this wire is cut.  Doing on the part going to the door won't work.

You say your power windows don't work anymore?  Woops.  Wrong wire.  But
if you don't have any power gadgets in the door, the seat belt switch
will the the only wire there.


Donald Borowski    WA6OMI    Hewlett-Packard, Spokane Division
"Angels are able to fly because they take themselves so lightly."
                                       -G.K. Chesterton