HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: wes@uf.msc.edu (Wes Barris)
Subject: Re: Kadee coupler installation
Reply-To: wes@msc.edu
Organization: AHPCRC, Minnesota Supercomputer Center
Distribution: regional
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 15:20:47 GMT

In article <1jjm9oINNh73@grapevine.EBay.Sun.COM>, maral@repare.EBay.Sun.COM (Mark Maral) writes:
|> Does anyone have any advise for installing Kadee couplers
|> in an Athearn GP9 engine?  This is my first attempt at
|> this and any help would be appreciated.
|> 
|> Thanks,  Mark 

I seem to remember that a #5 coupler fits right into the coupler pocket
on an Athearn GP9.  This, at least, would be the easiest way.  Some
people prefer to grind off the existing coupler pocket in order to install
the entire Kadee draft gear as well.

-- 
                                       o O O O O o o o o o o o o . . . . . . .
 __________    ___           ___      __                _
/_______|--`--|_ _|--=-==---|_ _|--,_|__|_             |-+-------`____________,
| ||_| /        -  |        / - \  |      || ________  |                      |
|_|___/------------|----__---------|------|||__|__|__| |Southern Pacific Lines|
|_|____________/-------{__}---------------{__}_______|=|_________     ________|
/_(o)=(o) ( )( )( )( ) [__]  ( )( )( )( ) [__]--(o)     (o)(o)(o)-----(o)(o)(o)
===============================================================================
Wes Barris                                                   PH: (612) 626-8090
Minnesota Supercomputer Center, Inc.                         Email: wes@msc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: myoung@mail.boi.hp.com (Matt_Young)
Subject: Re: Engine weathering
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 18:21:12 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

I just started experimenting with chalks and I'm really impressed.  I just
bought an F7 A-B set and wanted to lightly weather them (that recently
washed look).  I used black and brown chalks on the roof and black, brown,
and mustard colors on the sides (Union Pacific F7 with gray roof and yellow
sides).  What I really like about chalk is that it creates a subtle, road
grime sort of look but has more variety and brings out details better than
a wash or a light overspray of paint.

It seems like darker chalks work better on light-colored paint and medium
or lighter-colored chalks for dark paint.  If you look at prototype box
cars, they all look about the same color -- lighter colors darken and dark
colors lighten until they all have that medium-dark grime look.

I still use paints to touch up the fans and exhaust stacks, and to weather
the trucks, fuel tank, etc.

Matt Young (myoung@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com) HP Network Printer Div., Boise, Idaho
From: macman+@pitt.edu (Dennis H Lippert)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: Re: Weathering plastic track
Date: 21 Jan 93 19:00:59 GMT
Organization: University of Pittsburgh

In article <sfLU8Zq00iV349hkcr@andrew.cmu.edu> cb4n+@andrew.cmu.edu (Colin John Brodsky) writes:
>Is there an effective way to make Atlas' plastic ties look better?
>Has anyone tried painting them, and if so, how did it work?  Would any
>of the Floquill colors be good for this purpose?

Almost any-ol' paint of the right color will do the job.  My personal 
favorite is Floquil Roof Brown.  It's dead-flat, goes quite far if thinned
50-50, and "just looks right to me".  Just airbrush the rails and ties...
the nickel-silver rails are worse to look at than the ties. Then clean it 
all off the railtops with a bright boy.

Why not Floquil "rail brown"??  IMHO it's way too light of a color... 
closer to mud than oily OLD rust.

Den
-- 
==========================================================================
  Dennis Lippert   -   macman+@pitt.edu    or    macman@vm2.cis.pitt.edu
The "Mac Maniac" operator at the Sutherland Hall Lab - Univ. of Pittsburgh
                             "Just the Macs, Man"
From: nijhuis@isg.llnl.gov (Jan A. Nijhuis)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: Tracks Ahead show schedule.
Date: 26 Jan 93 21:49:14 GMT
Distribution: ca
Organization: Lawrence Laboratory  Livermore, CA


I keep seeing "show schedules" for Tracks Ahead, the second season listed in
Model Railroader Magazine.  Does anyone know when KVIE (Channel 6), Sacramento
will air the series? 
--

Jan A. Nijhuis,
nijhuis@isg.llnl.gov

Two wrongs do not make a right, but three will get you back on the freeway.
From: winans@xray.aps.anl.gov (John R. Winans)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: Re: wuarchive IP number? (Re: EditTrack)
Date: 26 Jan 93 15:01:41 GMT
Article-I.D.: mcs.1993Jan26.150141.27661
Organization: Argonne National Laboratory, Chicago Illinois

In article <1k3a87INNgap@iraul1.ira.uka.de> S_KOEHLER@iravcl.ira.uka.de (|S| Tobias Koehler) writes:
>Can anybody tell me the IP number of wuarchive.wustl.edu?
>My FTP program needs the numeric address.

I suspect you are not the only one...
wuarchive.wustl.edu is 128.252.135.4

-- 
! John Winans                     Advanced Photon Source  (Controls)    !
! winans@mcs.anl.gov              Argonne National Laboratory, Illinois !
!                                                                       !
!"The large print giveth, and the small print taketh away." - Tom Waits !
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: sra@bistromath.mitre.org (Stan R. Ames)
Subject: New Arnold Drive Unit
Organization: The MITRE Corporation, Bedford, MA
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 11:53:08 GMT

I am not sure if this is general knowlege but Arnold has a new drive unit
that is much better than the toy grade drive units currently available.

The new unit has an inproved motor and is gear driven with universal joints.

Although it does not have flywheels its operation was very similar
to a Kato/Atlas.

I saw the first production unit this week and was told that they will slowly
be upgrading the old units.

Stan Ames
From: fred@samson.lbl.gov (Alan Wandesforde)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: Re: Another 00n9 track plan
Date: 21 Jan 1993 19:36:07 GMT
Organization: Lawrence Berkeley Laboratory
NNTP-Posting-Host: 128.3.128.68

Would it be possible to post your track plans in a post script form.
I haven't been able to figure out how to read what you previously posted.

You could repost them for all to see or just e-mail them to me at:
fred@fionn.lbl.gov

Thanks, Alan.
From: SDupa@xview.csuohio.edu (Scott Hewis)
Subject: Suggestions for Glueing Styrene to Wood
Organization: Cleveland State University - Telecomm 
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 19:05:40 GMT

I am currently working on installing a brigde on my layout and am having some
difficulty getting the styrene bridge pier glued to the wood base (back and
bottom of pier), and would welcome any and all suggestions.

Many thanks in advance,

Scott Hewis
--------------------------------------
* Scott Hewis; Telecom Specialist    *
* Cleveland State University         *
* email c/o scott@asgard.csuohio.edu *
--------------------------------------
From: sjones@superior.carleton.ca (Stan Jones)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: Re: edit-track
Date: 25 Jan 93 20:44:59 GMT
Organization: Carleton University

In <C1FEBE.BGn@news.cso.uiuc.edu> eshoben@s.psych.uiuc.edu (Ed Shoben) writes:

>eshoben@s.psych.uiuc.edu (Ed Shoben) writes:

>>	I got ET2.ZIP from somewhere and went to unzip it and discovered that 
>>my copy is bad. Can anyone direct me to a site where I could get it using   
>>anonymous ftp?

>	Thanks to the person who directed me to wuarchive.wustl.edu.  I   
>ftped et2.zip from there and got the same message.  Moreover, PKzipfix won't solve the problem.  Is there a site where there is a good copy?

I got et2.zip from wuarchive the other day and the transfer worked
fine.  Is everyone setting the system to binary (just type binary
<CR>) before getting the file?
From: dixson@ncs.dnd.ca (Murray Dixson)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: Paint spray booth.
Date: 26 Jan 93 20:59:05 GMT
Organization: DND, Ottawa, CANADA


    Anyone out there got any good tips on building a paint spray
booth from scratch?  Also, any tips on ways of dealing with disposing
of thinner after cleaning an airbrush?  I live in an apartment and my
'usual' ways of handling these things isn't very convenient now.  Any
suggestions would be great!   I've been told that Model Railroader
had a 'Paint Shop' article on the spray booth a few years back.  Did
anyone see it?  Thanks a lot!
Xref: sparky rec.models.railroad:3021 rec.models.scale:893
From: obrien@netcom.com (No parking EXCEPT FOR BOB)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad,rec.models.scale
Subject: Re: model engineering newsgroup
Date: 21 Jan 93 10:25:44 GMT
Organization: Netcom Online Communications Services (408-241-9760 login: guest)

Just some unsolicited advice from a plastic modeller who used to do
some 'model engineering'  (a couple of Sterling engines):

I'd suggest you hang out here in rec.models.scale, simply because _not_all_
of model engineering is railroads.

If the traffic specific to engineering models starts bugging the plastic
folks, we'll complain, and work out a solution.  If you want to pre-empt
that, then pick a subject-line flag and use it religously, like:
     Subject:  MEng: the boiler Joe's working on

And then everyone can use a killfile if they don't want to see it.  But
standardize it *completely* because some newsreaders have case-sensitive
killfiles (i.e. MEng != Meng)

Now, that was just a suggestion, you're welcome to ignore it.

	Bob   (IPMS #4157)
--
From: fwk@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (f.w.kerfoot..iii)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: Re: model engineering newsgroup
Date: 22 Jan 93 20:43:45 GMT
Organization: AT&T

From article <1993Jan21.174148.22720@cbfsb.cb.att.com>, by kkuehl@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (Kevin Kuehl):
> In article <ANDRE.93Jan20143717@king.slc.mentorg.com> andre@king.slc.mentorg.com (Andre' Hut) writes:
>>   >I wouldn't call what we are doing, engineering, although we do use a
>>   >small lathe (Sherline) and mill (also Sherline). Most of it is
>>   >village blacksmith level stuff (cut/file/turn/mill/measure until
>>   >it fits. The main locomotive details are very accurate, but the
>>   >motion and smoke box interior "just look right" and were/are bodged
>>   >to fit, although they work and will probably last for ever.
>>
>>   >Rec.models.railroad doesn't really fit because it seems to be mainly
>>   >ready-to-run HO, and rec.models.scale seems to be mainly plastic kits.
>>
>>Not at all!  Rec.models.railroad concerns itself with *all* aspects of modeling
>>a railroad.  There are lots of discussions that take place here besides the
>>ready-to-run stuff.  Again, the charter:
> 
> I find this quite entertaining.  Andre is using the same arguments against a
> new newsgroup that were used against his pet project rec.models.railroad.
> Just create the newsgroup and be done with it.  Lord knows one more newsgroup
> is not going to make the heirarchy any less sensible (tongue in cheek).

In Andre's defense, there was a lot of traffic on models in rec.railroad
before this group was formed. I don't see the equivalent traffic on
live steam or any other aspect of model engineering here, or anywhere
else, that would justify the generation of a new group. I think what I
hear is that at least the live steam railroad material is a good fit
with the charter of this group until there is enought traffic for a
separate group.

Frank Kerfoot
fwk@hogpa.att.com
From: myoung@mail.boi.hp.com (Matt_Young)
Subject: Re: Engine weathering
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 16:43:47 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

I received this email from Tom and thought it might be of general interest.

From:  Thomas C. Madden  tom@drutx.att.com  AT&T Bell Laboratories  Denver 
---------------------------------------------------------------------------    
Unless you're using very high pressure for spraying, it's
unlikely that the chalk weathering is being blown off. But you
are changing the reflective properties of the surface. This
thread came up a while back, and here's a section of what I
e-mailed then:

BEGIN INSERT

You need a rough surface to hold the chalk. You might try a
light spray of dullcote, delivered from farther away than
normal, so the spray is almost dry as it hits. You'll also want
to apply a normal coat of dullcote after you're done, to seal in
the chalk. Otherwise it'll rub off with handling. This final
coat will also change the appearance of your weathering. The
effect of chalk weathering is in large part due to the
micro-roughness of the chalk itself. (This has nothing to do
with the roughness of the surface previously mentioned. That was
just to get the chalk to stick.) When you seal in the
micro-roughness, even with a "flat" spray, you completely change
the reflective nature of the surface, and a lot of the
weathering effect disappears. This is very pronounced for
light-colored weathering on dark cars, and much less so for dark
weathering on light cars. When weathering boxcar red cars, I
have to make them look garish, almost cartoonish, with lots of
"extra" weathering so they look right after the seal coat. 

Hint: eastern cars weather due to rain, soot and corrosion.
Western cars due to sun bleaching and abrasion. Thus eastern
cars tend to weather dark, and western cars light.

END INSERT

Tom
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Matt Young (myoung@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com) Hewlett Packard Network Printer Div.


Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: obrien@netcom.com (No parking EXCEPT FOR BOB)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad,rec.models.scale
Subject: Re: HO scale mud and dirt
Date: 21 Jan 93 10:14:37 GMT
Organization: Netcom Online Communications Services (408-241-9760 login: guest)

smb@research.att.com (Steven Bellovin) writes:
>Any thoughts on how to simulate 3-D clumps of mud and dirt in HO scale?

Consider combinations of dry pastel (chalk-type) and paint.
For example, scrape the pastel with a knife to get lumpy stuff, then
drop it on wet paint.

	Bob
From: djenkins@axion.bt.co.uk (David Jenkins)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: Re: model engineering newsgroup
Date: 25 Jan 93 11:07:33 GMT
Reply-To: djenkins@axion.bt.co.uk (David Jenkins)
Organization: British Telecom Research Labs



As said previously, there is a newsgroup for metalworking in general,
but it is a bit too general for those involved with live steam railway
modelling - we have a foot in both camps.

The metalworking camp talks mostly about general technicalities of
metalworking, whereas I would prefer to talk about railway-specific
matters - and although I'm not involved in "table-top" railways (and I
don't use the term rudely) I do like to read about the things people are
doing.

Allowing a friendly mixture of gauges from 'n' to 7.25" might win
converts both ways - I've been tempted lately by some very fine 'n'
gauge displays showing narrow-gauge scenes from quarries which I
wouldn't mind trying for myself, which is rather different from my 5"
narrow-gauge monster (4ft+ long, 150 lbs) currently under construction. 
Perhaps some of the small-scale modellers might be tempted by the larger
stuff but don't know how to get started?  There is a lot of good work
being done in the intermediate gauges ('O' , 2.5", etc.) which bears
discussion, and which can be made with very little equipment (e.g. a
table-top miniature lathe).

As a lot of the discussion in this group is about 12" to the foot scale
railways then perhaps some tolerance for us "in-betweeners" is in order!
I'm sure that the major discussions will still be table-top or full-size
anyway, with only a small proportion of live steam now and again.



David Jenkins

(Still looking for a piece of land to build 2000 ft. of 3.5" & 5" track!)
From: brianrh@hpmwtd.sr.hp.com (Brian R Hutchison)
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1993 01:06:37 GMT
Subject: D&RGW NG Outfit Car Modeling
Organization: HP Santa Rosa Site (SRSD MWTD)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad

Does anyone know of a model construction article(s) on making D&RGW narrow
gauge outfit cars out of boxcar kits. I need three of them to go with my
derrick so I would like to know if there is any experience in doing this
before I cut into a RailLine boxcar. I hope the window/door castings are
available. I have an E&B Valley MOW sleeper(053) already. Was this car also
a kitchen car before?



Thanks,                                 ooOOOO                      ___
Brian Hutchison                        oo      _____          ______|O|_____
                                      _I__n_n__||_|| ________  | O O   O  |
Microwave Technology Division       >(_________|_7_|-|______|-_|__________|_-
Hewlett Packard Company              /o ()() ()() o   oo  oo    oo      oo

INTERNET : brianrh@sr.hp.COM
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: winans@xray.aps.anl.gov (John R. Winans)
Subject: cork vs homasote (Re: Where to mail order?)
Organization: Argonne National Laboratory, Chicago Illinois
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 16:55:02 GMT

In article <UfKOYFK00iV38200g7@andrew.cmu.edu> cb4n+@andrew.cmu.edu (Colin John Brodsky) writes:
>First, thanks for all the input regarding plywood vs. Homasote.  I
>decided to go with Homasote using braces every 18".  This supports my
>weight with no visible sagging, so I think it will be OK.
>
>Now comes time to get roadbed - a case of cork...

Huh?  Why not just use the homasote?  There have been several articles posted
here in the past few months about ways to cut it.

I saw a layout being built in Elmhurst IL. where they used a router to shape 
the road bed out of the homasote after it was mounted.  The shape looked fine.
And they were left with homasote to mount the tracks on (instead of flimsy 
cork.)  So they could run trains before they got serious about eye-droppers 
of glue and so on.  

For the landscape they had screen tacked to the bottom of the homasote that 
was covered with that expanding foam stuff.  The screen/foam combo worked 
pretty well for them.  It looks like what happens is that the foam expands 
and then, under its own weight, falls thru the screen until its surface is
about 1/4" above the screen (the total foam thickness was in the 1 to 2 inch 
range.)  So the end result was that they did not actually need anything above 
their sub-roadbed structure to provide the desired shape.  (They did, however,
use an assortment of support styles for the homasote depending on the grade of 
the terrain.)  

I would suspect that if you used expando-foam along the edge of the roadbed 
everywhere, that you would not need much support for the homasote.   If your 
enitre terrain was made of 2" foam, your layout would be VERY rigid.  


--John
-- 
! John Winans                     Advanced Photon Source  (Controls)    !
! winans@mcs.anl.gov              Argonne National Laboratory, Illinois !
!                                                                       !
!"The large print giveth, and the small print taketh away." - Tom Waits !
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: wey@cbnewsb.cb.att.com (william.e.yoder)
Subject: Re: Has anyone used foam for roadbed?
Keywords: expando-foam,styrofoam,track,train,choo-choo,Bob Vila
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 19:34:13 GMT

In article <1993Jan26.155252.3355@mcs.anl.gov>, winans@xray.aps.anl.gov (John R. Winans) writes:
> Hi again,
> 
> While explaining what expando-foam is to someone who emailed me, I started
> thinking about the use of this pink foam that I found in a hardware store 
> out here.  I think it is marketed as an insulation to be used on the outside
> of a house before you put up the siding.  I once saw Bob Vila using it that
> way on one of his fix-up shows.
.
.
. 
> Anyone try anything like this?  I might give this a try tonight if my
> girlfriend would consider it an acceptable date activity.   With any luck
> I will be happy even if the track mounting is a complete failure ;-)
> 

What you are talking about is called extruded foam. It is very strong and
a lot cleaner to cut than styrofoam.
I used it on two 6 ft modules at our model RR club. The only support was
a 1x4 border around it and some 1x2's layed across underneath. It is
very lightweight, and very strong. It can be cut and molded to any shape.
Trees are easy to install on it. No drilling of holes necessary.
it can be modified easily. Yellow wood glue works well to bond it 
together. Glue is also used to glue cork roadbed and flextrack down.
The only drawback that I've experienced is that it is a little bit 
noisier that plywood surface. It shouldn't be bad, though, if it is 
bonded on top of plywood.

Bill Yoder
From: maral@repare.EBay.Sun.COM (Mark Maral)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: Kadee coupler installation
Date: 20 Jan 1993 14:06:47 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems
Distribution: regional
Reply-To: maral@repare.EBay.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: repare.ebay.sun.com

Does anyone have any advise for installing Kadee couplers
in an Athearn GP9 engine?  This is my first attempt at
this and any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,  Mark
From: craig@kralizec.zeta.org.au (Craig Dewick)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: Re: Keeping it clean
Date: 22 Jan 1993 08:32:01 +1100
Organization: Kralizec Dialup Unix Sydney: +61-2-837-1183 V.42bis
NNTP-Posting-Host: kralizec.zeta.org.au
Keywords: dust

haynesb@gov.on.ca (Brad Haynes) writes:

>Can anyone recommend a method of controlling dust on a layout?
>A solution could be as easy as throwing a sheet over it, but I
>was wondering if anyone uses anti-static spray (or similiar).

Short of covering up the layout after each use, a better method is to
have the layout set up so that it's viewed almost from eye level AND
has a 'roof' over it about 0.5 to 1 metre (2 to 3 feet) completely
covering the layout.

If you've ever seen articles on shelf-style layouts built at eye level,
you'll notice that a lot have the scenery 'wrapping over' the top of
the layout.

I've got no permanent layout, but the small yard I have built on the
workbench in the garage has a wall-mounted cupboard over one end, and
it's amazing how dust-free this area stays. The section that's not
covered over by this cupboard collects a lot of dust, dead insects, etc.
-- 
 Craig Dewick, Station Master, Possum Power Tank BBS. +612-544-1060 (ringback).
    Send electronic mail to craig@kralizec.zeta.org.au, flames to /dev/null.
                      - Railway Preservation Industries -
          Supporting the Preservation of Australia's Railway Heritage
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: ardie@UIUC (Ardie Mack)
Subject: Re: Lionel American Flyer BN CABOOSE 48706 WANTED!
Organization: Department of Plant Pathology
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 13:32:01 GMT

In article <1jn2stINNck9@crcnis1.unl.edu> jkelty@unl.edu (john kelty) writes:
>From: jkelty@unl.edu (john kelty)
>Subject: Lionel American Flyer BN CABOOSE 48706 WANTED!
>Date: 21 Jan 1993 21:00:13 GMT
>I would like to buy a mint, in the box 48706.  It's not rare, built in
>about 1990, but I can't seem to find one.
>
>Thanks,
>
>john kelty
>jkelty@unlinfo.edu
>unl physics
>(402) 467-3298
>lincoln, nebraska
>
>
    WRONG!  The bastards at LTI decided to make this one rare.  Although it 
IS a recent release, they underproduced the geep and its caboose.  Many 
dealers ordering these were either shorted on their order or shafted out 
altogether!
     Anyway, in a model train mag, get the phone number for Scenery 
Unlimited and Leventon's.  If they don't happen to have these, they MIGHT 
know of another dealer with one.  Expect to pay a blasted premium, though.

     By the way, I am also looking for a #988 ART reefer.  I am NOT looking 
for collector grade E+, NIB, etc, but I want the Wabash flag to be in good 
shape.  Contact me at   ardie@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu     .  Sorry to piggyback 
someone elses, request.
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad