HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: monson@hobo.ECE.ORST.EDU (Ty Monson)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: How much to charge for print?
Date: 6 Nov 92 22:31:04 GMT
Article-I.D.: news.BxBFvy.4GD
Organization: ECE Dept.,OSU,Corvallis

In article <1deb8tINN8cl@fido.asd.sgi.com> reuel@sgi.com writes:
>
>I've had one of my prints on display in a building at Rice University
>and someone wants to buy a copy of it. I have no experience in the
>trade of prints and would like some advice. Maybe someone who spends
>more time in photo galleries than I do could help.
>
>This print is an 11x14" color print made from a 120 negative. I printed
>it myself at Rice (i.e. it's a "custom" print, not a "machine" print).
>
>What price is usually asked for a "good" print from a previously
>unpublished photographer?
>
>I'm not (and don't plan to be) in the business of selling my prints as
>a livelihood.
>
>I'd like to think that selling this could cover some of my costs.  I
>paid $300 to use the Rice darkroom that summer.  I would have to pay
 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
 Sorry, but unless the image is *really* special and the buyer is
 dripping with $, you aren't going to get $300+ for the print.
 IMHO, of course.

>that again to "duplicate" the print if the person wants it to be
>printed by ME. Or, if she wants to by the print that's there, I'd have
 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^
 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^ What is special about your printing? Did you do some
	       artistic manipulations that only you could do?
	       If a commercial lab makes the print, would anyone know
	       the difference? If not, then the printing cost is worth
	       $17 in your market area, because that's what it costs 
	       to get one more print.

>to pay that again to get one for me.  There's about $100 worth of
>matting, glass, and frame.  It would cost $17 to have a "custom" print
>made at a local lab.
>
>Reuel Nash	(713)293-9292	FAX (713)293-0503

 People who are really in the business of selling prints can get 
 an 11x14 matted and framed for substantially less than $100.
 Say, $25 for a 16x20 frame with single matt. Plus time, of course.
 I have seen good B&W prints in this size selling for $40, matted & framed.

 As a practical matter, do you have *any* idea of what your prospective
 buyer was thinking of paying? It will do you no good to ask 3 or 4 times
 the amount your prospective buyer was expecting to pay.
 And it *certainly* does you no good to ask 1/3 or 1/4.

 Did your buyer *want* the matting & framing?
 (marketing ploy: sell the bare print for a price that makes you "happy"
  and then let the buyer discover the cost of buying matting & framing
  *after* you have your money.)

 If it were easy to make good money selling prints, EVERYBODY would do it.
 Since you are new to selling, and since you aren't trying to make an
 ongoing business of it, I'd recommend that you ask a price that covers
 your incremental out-of-pocket cost, plus a little for your time & trouble
 in getting a lab to make another print. Sign your name to the print
 (if buyer lets you) and feel good that your name is getting around. :-)
From: dbernard@clesun.Central.Sun.COM (Dave Bernard)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Also wanted: Black Nikon F, plain finder
Date: 5 Nov 92 16:22:01 GMT
Reply-To: dbernard@clesun.Central.Sun.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems

I'm looking for a black F w/a plain prism finder.  As long as
everything works, I'm not too concerned with cosmetics.

	Dave

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: bongers@gto400.asd.sgi.com (Hans L. Bongers)
Subject: Re: Big/fast EOS lens advice sought
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc., Mountain View, CA, USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 00:18:42 GMT

In article <1992Nov10.215501.29328@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>, mills@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Douglas K Mills) writes:
|> I am an amateur wildlife photographer (my income is unaffected by any
|> choice shots), who would really like to have a good long lens for the
|> expeditions into the less populated areas of the North American 
|> continent.  I use Cannon's EOS equipment, and currently have a Rebel.
|> I have considered two new purchases to make - a new EOS body (like an
|> Elan), and a big lens.  The lens I currently use is the 100-300 USM, 
|> which is very easy to use and works well in good lighting conditions.
|> 
|> The most choice shots seem to happen at dawn or dusk or in the rain.
|> These, of course, are low-light times.  What I seem to need is a big, 
|> fast lens.  I had in mind a 300mm 2.8 type lens, but don't know who
|> makes good ones, what to look out for, or whether it is worth going 
|> for used or new.  I have also considered getting a teleconverter for 
|> the 300mm lens to get even closer (and still be faster than my 
|> 100-300).
|> 
|> Any comments on what to watch out for in the lens, which lens is 
|> better or worse, or anything else that is _experience_based_ would 
|> be appreciated.  I go to used camera equipment stores several times
|> each week, but have only heard of 300mm 2.8 lenses (never seen any).
|> Of course the local new camera stores don't stock anything as nice as 
|> that. 
|> 
|> I hope to have a lens in hand for a Christmas trip down south where
|> it is warm and there is plenty of wildlife still brousing around.  
|> AdvTHANKSance !!
|> 
|> =-= Doug
|> 
|> =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
|> Doug Mills                                                Audio: (614) 292-2429
|> HCGL Manager                                           Internet: mills+@osu.edu
|> 1971 Neil Ave Rm 406                 "Who would claim these views but myself ?"
|> Columbus, Ohio  43210         T h e   O h i o   S t a t e   U n i v e r s i t y
|> =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=


As long as you are going to buy a new body, you might try a Nikon F4S.  The money you save over
buying a canon 300/2.8 would more than cover the rental of a Nikon 300/2.8 or even a 600/4.0.

I have the Nikon 300/2.8 and its a great lens.  I also have the 1.4x & 2x tele convertors.  IMHO,
the 2x isn't worth the bucks but the 1.4x is OK.

The reason I suggest switching to a "real" body is two fold:

1. It is usually easier to rent Nikon equipment
2. If you are going to spend 2.5-3K for a lens, it better fit on that body they will come out
   with 10 years from now.  Canon has clearly demonstrated their lack of commitment to
   the existing base of lenses, whereas Nikon have retained compatibility (albeit somewhat
   reduced functionality) for lenses built more than 25 years ago.


just my $0.02 worth

--- hans
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: pd@sics.se (Per Danielsson)
Subject: Second curtain sync and red eye on Canon EOS 100 (Elan) (was Re: slow sync and red eye on Canon EOS 100 (Elan))
Organization: Swedish Institute of Computer Science
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 16:01:51 GMT

In article <SM.92Nov6100914@suns2.cel.co.uk> sm@cel.co.uk (salim mehta) writes:

>The anti red eye feature tries to "blind" the subject with bright light
>just before taking the picture. This causes their eyes to "stop-down" thus
>*reducing* (not eliminating) the amount of reflected flash light.

>With slow-sync speeds the pre-flash will be separated from the main flash
>by such a long time that the subject's eyes will recover ie. this feature
>won't work.

You're talking about second curtain sync, not slow sync. The anti-red
eye feature works with all shutter speeds as long as you synchronize
the flash with the first curtain of the shutter.
--
Per Danielsson				pd@sics.se
Swedish Institute of Computer Science, PO Box 1263, S-164 28 KISTA, SWEDEN
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: ka1gt@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (robert.m.atkins)
Subject: Re: Flashing "ISO" in Elan
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 16:31:41 GMT

In article <6651@ucsbcsl.ucsb.edu>, 6500rick@ucsbuxa.ucsb.edu (Richard J. Bessey) writes:
> 
> Funny I should happen to see this today.
> Yesterday I was loading some bulk film into my ELAN
> (which didn't have DX coding) and was surprised to find
> that the ISO indicator continued to flash.  (It was the first
> time I used film that wasn't DX coded.)
> 
> That is to say, even AFTER manually setting the ISO, the indicator
> continued to flash.  I checked the manual - nothing.
> The film, however, processed fine.  I assume it was just something
> overlooked in the manual.  (Like the thing about turning
> off and on the beep.)
> 
> SUM:  I got the same thing too, but since I had manually set it
> properly, there was no problem. 

I can't remember where the information came from, but I'm pretty sure that
EOS cameras (at least the 10s and Elan) are supposed to flash the ISO setting
when you have manually changed it in order to remind you of that fact. Same
applies to non-DX encoded films. 


===============================================================
Bob Atkins  AT&T Bell Labs  email (direct)  att!clockwise!rma
===============================================================
From: philw@vice.ICO.TEK.COM (Philip W White)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Nikon 75-150mm/f3.8 Series E - your opinion
Date: 12 Nov 92 18:59:09 GMT
Article-I.D.: vice.10741
Distribution: usa
Organization: Tektronix Inc., Beaverton, Or.

In <1992Nov5.160809.17464@newstand.syr.edu>, asadigh asked:
> I am about to buy a used Nikon 75-105mm/f3.5 series E lens.  I would
> like you folks to share your experiences about this lans with me.  
 
I don't have any actual experience with it, but the guy who wrote
the "Nikon Systems Handbook" thinks it's good.  He doesn't rave about
it as much as some of the other (non-E) lenses, but he says many people
think it should have been kept on longer and made a non-E lense.
 
(Sorry I don't have the author's name handy, but this is a useful book,
not in any way affiliated with Nikon itself.)  The price mentionned in the
back of the book, 1991 edition, for used 75-150mm f/3.5 Series E : $139
 
I don't know what relation those prices bear to reality.
 
      Phil White   Tektronix, Beaverton, OR
USENET:  philip.w.white@tek.COM
 US Mail: Mail Stop 59-432, P.O. Box 500, Beaverton OR 97077-0001
From: johnson@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Cole Johnson)
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 08:12:29 GMT
Subject: Re: Re: Need photo school advice Summary:
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.photo

I only spent a couple grand a year at the Academy of Art
in San Francisco, about 10 years ago, I'm sure they are a
lot more now.  I was in a co-op program with USF so my
Fine Arts degree came from them.

I used to work for a pro in NY and I should have listened 
to his advise about becomming a professional photographer.
He strongly recommended getting a business degree and taking
weekend seminars and some community college art and photo-
graphy classes.  Of, course I was young and pig headed and
went to art school anyway.  So now I'm struggling trying to
learn the business side.

I currently work with computers to support my photography
habit.  I don't see how people starting out can afford
this crazy profession.  The cost of medium and large format
has just sky rocketed.  I could sell all my stuff for a lot
more than I paid for it.

good luck.....

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: benham@liebnitz.ssd.kodak.com (Todd D. Benham)
Subject: light damage
Organization: Eastman Kodak
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 92 18:14:00 GMT

My mother recently came back from a vacation trip to Graceland, TN.
Of course, she toured the Elvis Presley estate.  The tour allowed
as many pictures as you like as long as you do not use flash (
except in certain rooms, apparently).  The reason they gave was that
the huge number of tourist camera flashes will, over time, do some
kind of damage to the displayed items (various items of Elvis' from clothes
to cars to jewelry ...).

My questions are:
  Can anyone confirm that flashes can cause damage? (or are they
  just being paranoid?:)

  How many flashes would it take to do any significant damage?

  What item are subject to damage by light?

Thanks
YMT
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: hsieh1@carson.u.washington.edu (Darrell Kirk)
Subject: Nikkor 35mm f2.0 autofocus lens for sale
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1992 05:06:11 GMT

For Sale

Nikkor 35mm f2.0 auto focus lens

New in box, Two Hundred Dollars

Call Darrell at (206)322-3510 for more info, or drop and E-Mail

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: nitram@tellabs.com (Marty Hewes)
Subject: Batteries soldered into Oly. P&S?
Organization: Tellabs, Inc.
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 14:54:37 GMT

I just came by an Olympus "Quick Flash AFL" point and shoot.
I couldn't find a battery compartment, so I started disassembling.
This thing uses a couple lithium cells soldered in!  

The AFL looks like it was a pretty nice P&S a few years ago.

Did Olympus expect this thing to be thrown out when the batteries
died or were people expected to pay a camera repair man big
bucks to open this thing up and replace the batteries?

I don't think it was meant to be a disposable, this thing is
fully motorized, coated glass f2.8 lens, autofocus, flash, etc.

				 Marty Hewes
From: rslugg@med.unc.edu (Robert Slugg)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Medium format - buying advice wanted
Date: 5 Nov 92 22:51:52 GMT
Article-I.D.: samba.1992Nov5.225152.7724
Organization: UNC-CH School of Medicine

For a big neg on low dollars, I would suggest  a 2x3 century graphic with
a high quality 90-105 mm view camera lense and a 6x9 roll film back.  One
can get the whole setup for between $300-500 with careful shopping in
shutterbug.  I had access to one for a year or two and negatives it
produced were incredible.  They can also be used with single shutter in
lense components from mamiya TLR's where the view lense has become
unusable.  There is some vignetting but it's the cheapest 180 mm lense
available.

Bon
.
From: bjs@RUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Barry Sherman)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: 2nd thoughts on Mido film holders
Date: 5 Nov 92 20:02:08 GMT
Reply-To: bjs@RUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Barry Sherman)
Followup-To: rec.photo
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

Ty Monson writes:

>In article <a0du03QSb7D000@amdahl.uts.amdahl.com> bjs@amdahl.uts.amdahl.com (Barry Sherman) writes:

[ deleted reference to my problems with dust on negatives when using Mido
film holders ]

>  Which reminds me to ask:
>  Are there any prepackaged B&W films like the Kodak Ready Loads,
>  or Fuji Quick Load or Polaroid Pro Chrome?
>
>  More expensive per sheet, perhaps, but look at the hell Barry has 
>  been through!

Ty has a good point.  I've shied away from the Fuji Quick Loads due to price,
but it would be nice to not have to worry about trying to bleach out little 
black specks on my Ciba prints!

Barry

--


|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Barry Sherman, Amdahl Corp.  | PROGRAM: n. A magic spell cast over a com-  |
| bjs@ruts.ccc.amdahl.com      | puter allowing it to turn one's input into  |
|                              | error messages.  tr.v. To engage in a pas-  |
|                              | time similar to banging one's head against  |
|                              | a wall, but with fewer opportunities for    |
|                              | reward.                                     |
|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Amdahl, being a corporation, is a legal fiction.  Therefore it is incapable|
| of holding, let alone expressing, opinions.  Unfortunately, this has been  |
| said of me as well.                                                        |
|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
From: geoff@pmafire.inel.gov (Geoff Allen)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Canonet GIII QL17
Date: 10 Nov 92 16:17:21 GMT
Article-I.D.: pmafire.1992Nov10.161721.6141
Organization: Roller Coaster fanatic with no hope for a cure

glp@fig.citib.com (Greg Parkinson) writes:
>
>I just came into possession of an almost-mint condition
>Canonet GIII QL17.  I've heard that the lenses on these
>cameras are very sharp, and they open up to 1.7 - good 
>for low light shooting.

I've also got one of these cameras.  It's a really nice package.

>It's operation seems pretty obvious so far, but I have
>a few questions:
>
>How do you turn off the meter?

By turning the aperature dial off of 'A', I believe.

>The shutter speed dial on the lens has markings for
>indoor, cloudy, and outdoor, but there's nothing to 
>line them up against!  

I seem to remember something, but don't recall what off the top of my
head.  I'll try to remember to check.

>To the right of the f-stop numbers, just past the
>"A", are the numbers 28 20 14 - any hints?

Again, I don't recall.  I'll try to check for you.

>I've got a flash for it too, but no idea of how
>to set it.

The camera had a dedicated flash, which was about the size of a
cigarette package.  Is this what you have?  If so, operation is quite
straightforward -- you turn the flash on, and focus the lens.  The
aperture changes with the focus distance, and it's rather fun to watch
the needle bounce up and down while flinging the focus lever.  (Ok, some
of us are easy to amuse. ;^) )

>Any help would be appreciated and I'd get real excited
>if someone actually had a manual I could copy.

I'm pretty sure I have the manual someplace.  I'll send Greg e-mail and
handle this aspect off-line, but figured I'd post here just in case
there are others interested in/with info about this camera.

Geoff ``The Canonet was my first camera <sniff>'' Allen

-- 
Geoff Allen          \  Driggs, Idaho -- cultural hub of the west!
uunet!pmafire!geoff   \
geoff@pmafire.inel.gov \  (Tom Harper in rec.skiing)
From: 6500rick@ucsbuxa.ucsb.edu (Richard J. Bessey)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Flashing "ISO" in Elan
Date: 13 Nov 92 05:21:54 GMT
Article-I.D.: ucsbcsl.6678


Well, I posted once, but I don't know if it is going to show up.

The bottom line is I got this same message the other day and was 
surprised.  Even though the speed was set manually it continued to
flash.  But the pictures turned out fine.  No problem.

Maybe it is like that mysterious beep that you read about in the 
manual, the one you can turn off and on, but which really doesn't
exist.

Rick
From: jscherer@db (John Scherer)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Keiv 88 lenses wanted
Date: 10 Nov 92 18:01:15 GMT
Organization: Novell, Inc.
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4

I recently purchased a Keiv 88 with an 80mm lens, 120 back.  Everything
is in great shape but now I would like to aquire some additional lenses 
for it.  Also any other accessorys that might be available for it.  The
cammera with lens and back cost me $100.00 + I traded in my yasicia A
and my Cannon AE-1 program body.  

Brst Regards,

John Scherer
jscherer@novell.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: michael9@cs.mun.ca (Michael Sullivan)
Subject: Sharpness (Part II)
Organization: CS Dept., Memorial University of Newfoundland
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 18:41:58 GMT


	Well, I suspect I have found the problem with my images being unsharp -
the zoom (Tamron 70-210) will not focus on infinity at any length shorter
then some function of the distance of the object.  IE, an object about 300
metres away is more out of focus at 70mm then an object 200 metres away.
But if I zoom, they all eventually come into focus.  The same is true for the
50mm lens.  To focus at infinity, I would need to turn the lens just a little
more then I can. 

	Someone posted that this is a problem with the focusing screen.  Will
this be expensive to have fixed?

	The response from everyone on the sharpness problem has been fantastic!
I will compile all the replies I have gotten, and maybe they can be added to
the FAQ file, or a hints file of some sort.


-- 
|uunet!garfield!michael9|'"Proof denies faith and without faith I am nothing,"|
|michael9@odie.cs.mun.ca| says God.  "But you have given us proof," says      |
|POB 756,St.John's,Nfld.| man, "Therefore you do not exist. QED." "Oh, my,"   |
|A1S 1G8                | says God, and disappears in a puff of logic.'       |
From: allana@hpmwtd.sr.hp.com (Allan Armstrong)
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 16:04:26 GMT
Subject: Re: Canon EOS 20-35 lenses?
Organization: HP Santa Rosa Site (SRSD MWTD)
Newsgroups: rec.photo

When buying a zoom of this focal length range, check the filter size. The
Sigma lens takes 77mm filters, I believe.

I find that when I am working wide angle for color scenics, I often use
a polarizer. A 77mm polarizer will break the bank. If I am working in
black and white, I'll need a red or yellow filter.

Fixed focal length lenses of this range accept normal-sized filters.
Nikon's 20, 24, 28, and 35 all accept either 52mm or 62mm filters.

Allan
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: robert@sys.sweden.dg.com (Robert Claeson)
Subject: Re: Big/fast EOS lens advice sought
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 15:04:06 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Data General AB, Akalla, Sweden

In article <1992Nov11.001842.12592@odin.corp.sgi.com>, bongers@gto400.asd.sgi.com (Hans L. Bongers) writes:

> 2. If you are going to spend 2.5-3K for a lens, it better fit on that body they will come out
>    with 10 years from now.  Canon has clearly demonstrated their lack of commitment to
>    the existing base of lenses, whereas Nikon have retained compatibility (albeit somewhat
>    reduced functionality) for lenses built more than 25 years ago.

Uh? Canon has retained compatibility (albeit with somewhat reduced
functionality) for lenses built a long time ago. There are at least two
different ways of using them on an EOS camera.

Personally, I considered switching over to Nikon when I traded my old
equipment (I wanted new lenses, and I figured I could just as well change
to new bodies at the same time). However, I found the ergonomics of the
Nikon F-4 inferior to some of the other choices, and when I loaned a
couple of lenses, the Nikon's wasn't as sharp (I used a very sturdy tripod,
a large ball head and Kodak Technical Pan). So I finally settled for the
Canon EOS-1. The availability of rental equipment wasn't a biggie for me.
Where I happen to live, Canon equipment is as easy to rent as Nikon, if
not easier.

-- 
------------------------------ END OF MESSAGE ------------------------------
Robert Claeson                Internet: robert@sys.sweden.dg.com
Data General AB                         robert@sys.dg.se
Box 28                             CEO: robert@sys.sweden.dg.com:dg-smtp
S-164 93 KISTA                     Tel: +46 (0)8-92 55 00
Sweden                             Fax: +46 (0)8-751 36 22
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: gwowen@gpu.utcs.utoronto.ca (George Owen)
Subject:  Looking for Roliflex Press Camera
Organization: UTCS Public Access
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 20:36:16 GMT


    Hi , 
         I would like to purchase an old style Roliflex camera with Press 
	capabilities.  This means aperture and shutter speed can be preset
	and equivilants can be set easily.  I'm almost possitive this type
	of camera comes with a 2.8 Zeiss lens. 

        Any Ideas , anyone ????     :-)

              Thanks !
   

-- 
***************************************************************************
George Owen                              gwowen@gpu.utcs.utoronto.ca  
University of Toronto 
Computing Services                             Phone: (416) 978-1506
Newsgroups: rec.photo