From: richard@TIS.COM (Richard Clark)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Power Switch on RAS ???
Date: 12 Jan 93 14:56:21 GMT
Reply-To: richard@TIS.COM
Organization: Trusted Information Systems


In article <1993Jan11.213642.23188@mloeff01.cpchq.cpc.gmeds.com> you write:
>In article AA11589@TIS.COM, richard@TIS.COM (Richard Clark) writes:
>>
>>In article <1993Jan11.181736.22456@mloeff01.cpchq.cpc.gmeds.com> you write:
>>>Confessions of a Ryobi RAS junkie:
>>>
>>>[stuff deleted] [good advice, actually]
>>>  And DON'T EVER, EVER, EVER try to cut pressure-treated 2 X 6's that
>>>are still wet in the middle.
>>
>>	??? Why not ??? As I would have most assuredly have tried this, and
>>likely will... could you tell me what to expect????....
>>
>>
>This advice was a bit tongue-in-cheek however the warning was definitely
>intended.  The wet pressure-treated (PT) wood caused the saw blade to
>bind in the cut about midway through the cut.  The blade climbed in the
>saw kerf and jammmed stalling out the motor.  Having the saw jump as
>violently as it did was most disconcerting. (It would have been nice to
>have a thumb switch then!!) 

	I *hate* when that happens... Yow!

	My little circular saw used to do this... (I built a deck this
last year... actually, its a *huge* deck... and I'm still not done yet...)
It used to go about halfway through and grind to a halt... I thought it
was something that I was doing... NOT!

>
>I was using a 32 tooth thin-kerf Disston Tiger blade at the time and
>switching to a thicker, coarser blade seemed to help, but did not cure,
>the problem.  I would try one of the so-called "deck blades" (which are
>teflon-coated and specifically made for cutting wet, PT wood) for my next
>PT wood project.  I have not noticed this problem with dry PT wood and I
>would caution against cutting cutting wet wood in general.  I just
>happened to have this experience with PT wood because it is commonly sold
>wet in these parts.

	All my wood is soaking wet. Totally drenched. But I fixed the problem
of the saw binding up... easy! I bought a new blade... I *was* using your
standard run-of-the-mill steel-type blade, namely the one that came with
the saw... never again! The blade which fixed all my binding problems and
gave my little circular saw new life and unbelieveable cutting power is the
Black and Decker PIRANHA (sp?). Cool blade! Carbide teeth, a little wider
than the rest of the blade, fish-hook cutting edge, sharp as a razor, and
has cut hundreds of 2x6, 2x8, and 2x10 and is still sharp! *NO MORE BINDING*
*NO MORE BURNT EDGES* :) :) Although it does take a little getting used to,
because even the sides are sharp, and so if you twist the blade a bit while
moving it along it really does try to go sideways...

	Naturally, the first thing I did was to get one for my new RAS... 

	Good luck!

BTW:	The Delta squiblet flurbigator comes with a carbide bit...


-----------------------Relativity Schmelativity-----------------------------
 Richard H. Clark				My opinions are my own, and
 LUNATIK - watch for me on the road...		ought to be yours, but under
 It's not my fault... I voted PEROT!		no circumstances are they
 richard@tis.com				those of my company...
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