HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: clarke@watson.ibm.com (Ed Clarke)
Subject: Re: Apple tree question
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 20:08:48 GMT
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center

In article <1992Oct14.174023.27701@njitgw.njit.edu>, smt2626@hertz.njit.edu (sylvia m tou mfen stnt) writes:
|> a big mistake or not.  Other than having to "collect" the rotten apples
|> that fall off and have been eaten off by animals and bugs what
|> other problems would I be facing.  Thanks.

Well .... some of those apple trees get big - really big.  I didn't realize
that the tree across the street from me was an apple until the apples fell
on the ground because I'd never seen a forty foot tall apple tree before.
This thing is about ten feet higher than the telephone pole next to it!

I guess you have to keep pruning apple trees or look for some dwarf variety.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: hank@well.sf.ca.us (Hank Roberts)
Subject: Re: Mailorder source for oak trees?
Organization: Whole Earth 'Lectronic Link
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 03:51:31 GMT

In <1992Oct13.004054.8271@macc.wisc.edu> heim@vms.macc.wisc.edu (JOHN HEIM	) writes:

>Anybody know of a source from which I can order some oak trees via the 
>mail?  

>Thanks in advance.

>JGH

I'd like to know too -- I've been wondering about becoming a source
of Ca. native oaks, actually.
From: igor@tc.fluke.COM (Igor Malcevski)
Subject: Free Mushroom Show
Keywords: Mushrooms
Organization: John Fluke Mfg. Co., Inc., Everett, WA
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 20:01:44 GMT

There has been several discussions about mushrooms in this news group.  For
those of you in the Seattle area or who might be in the area on the 18th
of October this might be of interest to you:


                 FREE MUSHROOM SHOW

WHEN:  10 AM TO 5 PM ON SUNDAY, OCTOBER 18TH.
WHERE: FLORAL HALL, FOREST PARK, EVERETT, WA.
SPONSERED BY: EVERETT PARKS DEPARTMENT AND 
              SNOHOMISH COUNTY MYCOLOGICAL SOCIETY
(There will be a display of over 100 mushroom varieties, video presentation
and book sales.  Bring your mushrooms in for identification.)

                  +
#Floral Hall______+______
            !     +     !
   Forest-->!  #  +     !
    Park    ------+------
                  +
                   +
                    +<-- 41st(becomes Mukilteo blvd)
                    +
Evergreen--way------+----Rucker------------
                    +
 (x)Going North     + (*) Going South 
    on I-5          +     on I-5
Take Broadway Exit  +     Take 41st Exit
                 /---+---------------------Broadway
I-5------------(x)---(*)--------------------I-5
   North---->         
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: ramirez@julia.math.ucla.edu (Alice Ramirez)
Subject: freesias additional questions, idle curiosity
Organization: UCLA Mathematics Department
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 92 00:47:38 GMT

Kay Klier is right.  Out here in ol' So.Cal we plant freesias in the
ground. I've even had volunteer seedling freesias pop up in strange places.
Another element we have in their season (our winters) besides cool rainy
weather is a certain contrast between daytime temperatures and night time
temps.  (apx 65 during the day, 45 at night but this is variable and excludes
hot spells and cold snaps). SOmeone more knowledgable than I might know if
this detail is important to freesias. (and to those trying to grow them
in less clement climates).  Also, does anyone know if daylength is 
important. Our winter daylength is quite a bit longer than that found
in higher latitudes, and maybe freesia needs this.  For me, it is simply
a matter of idle curiosity, but someone trying to flower these wonderful
creatures probably needs all the helpful info available.  They are really
WONDERFUL flowers.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Custard Apple-Annona cherimolia
From: Pandora@kcbbs.gen.nz (Dawn Scotting)
Date: 15 Oct 92 03:01:29 GMT
Organization: Kappa Crucis Unix BBS, Auckland, New Zealand

I have just been given a lovely ripe custard apple by a friend who has 
another friend that has a tree of them. I didn't realise they were able 
to be grown in New Zealand (Auckland) and am thrilled to find they are. 
I have kept the large seeds and was wondering if anyone knows if they 
can be grown from seed? If so, will it come true to type or will it 
need to be grafted onto rootstock and if so what sort of stock? If it 
doesn't grow true to type is it worth trying to grow anyway, whether 
I get fruit or not? Please answer in this newsgroup but it you MUST 
email me please don't quote!
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: FAQ HELP NEEDED: DUPLICATE NAMES
Date: 10 Oct 92 13:30:16 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

HELP!!!  The catalogs FAQ has suspiciously similar names and
addresses in several instances.  If you can shed any light on
these possible duplications (particularly if you know which
address is current!) please send comments to

IN%klier@iscsvax.uni.edu

Thanks!

Kay


COUNTRY GARDEN                COUNTRY GARDEN (THE)
  Route 2 Box 455A              PO Box 3539
  Crivitz WI 54114              Oakland, CA 94609
                                  Cat $2; fls for cutting



HARRIS MORAN SEED COMPANY     HARRIS SEEDS   *
  3670 Buffalo Road             60 Saginaw Drive
  Moreton Farm                  Rochester, NY 14623
  Rochester, NY 14624             Cat $0, PC/CC
                                general; also lawn seeds



SHEPHERDS GARDEN SEEDS        SHEPHERDS GARDEN SEEDS
  30 Irene St                   7389 West Zayante Rd.
  Torrington, CT 06790          Felton, CA 95018



SPRING HILL                   SPRING HILL NURSERIES CO.
  110 W. Elm St.                P.O. Box 1758
  Tipp City, OH 45371           Peoria IL 61656
  309-691-4616
    mostly flowers
From: vinod@watson.ibm.com (Vinod Narayanan)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: growing apples without pesticides?
Keywords: apples, organic
Date: 15 Oct 92 20:51:21 GMT
Reply-To: vinod@.vnet.ibm.com
Followup-To: rec.gardens
Organization: IBM
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM

I am thinking about planting two or three apple trees. Since
there are many orchards around (where we can pick fresh apples)
my main motivation is to get apples without pesticides. However,
when I called the local county extension service, they told me
that there is now way I will be able to grow apples without
spraying. Is this true?  Are there any special disease or
pest resistant varieties? 

Also, what's a good mail order source for apple trees? Is it
better to plant in Fall or Spring?

As usual, many thanks in advance for net.wisdom.

--vinod                                        (914)-892-4107
vinod@vnet.ibm.com                  
  We don't have time to think; we have programs to write!
From: thompson@atlas.socsci.umn.edu (T. Scott Thompson)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Apple tree question
Date: 16 Oct 92 00:55:01 GMT
Reply-To: thompson@atlas.socsci.umn.edu
Distribution: usa
Organization: Economics Department, University of Minnesota

smt2626@hertz.njit.edu (sylvia m tou mfen stnt) writes:

>I was considering planting an apple tree in my yard, apples I could
>pick and eat (or at least cook with).  Before I do this I would
>like to have other people's opinion as to whether I am about to make
>a big mistake or not.  Other than having to "collect" the rotten apples
>that fall off and have been eaten off by animals and bugs what
>other problems would I be facing.  Thanks.

Around here the main problems are:

1.  Apple maggots
2.  Coddling moths
3.  Apple Cedar Rust (a fungal disease)

You can control (1) and (2) with chemicals or with traps.  The traps
are unlikely to provide much control if there are other, unprotected
apple trees nearby (like the 50 foot tree in my neighbor's back yard!)
I have been told that the only good way to control (3) is to live at
least a mile away from all cedar trees.

Picking up and disposing of the apples on the ground also helps
control bugs, but not enough I have found.

Since I have small children and am unwilling to spray, I have come to
view my apple trees as primarily ornamental plants.

This year:  3 apple trees, edible production: 1 bushel
            2 pear trees,  edible production: none
--
T. Scott Thompson              email:  thompson@atlas.socsci.umn.edu
Department of Economics        phone:  (612) 625-0119
University of Minnesota        fax:    (612) 624-0209
From: fr@compu.com (Fred Rump from home)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: green tomatos again
Summary: how to turn them red
Date: 7 Oct 92 05:20:20 GMT
Organization: CompuData Inc.

I know there was some discussion here about green tomatos, but, of course, I 
was not interested then. 

I pulled all my plants out today as frost is around the corner and have lots 
of green tomatos. 

What's the best way of turning them into nice juicy red things? Any 
suggestions?

fred 
-- 
W. Fred Rump 	office:	   fred@COMPU.COM     'mans feet have grown/so big 
26 Warren St.   home: fred@icdi10.compu.com  that he/forgets his littleness'
Beverly, NJ. 08010                          		Don Marquis 
609-386-6846    bang:uunet!cdin-1!icdi10!fr
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: SOFTENED water
Date: 7 Oct 92 20:19:48 -0500
Followup-To: alt.bonsai,rec.gardens
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

bartlone@gemed (Mike Bartolone) writes:
> tap'..but I live in an apartment and do not have access to a
> non-softwned water tap. But before I start spending my lunch
> money on distilled water for my plants I want to be sure that
> softened water MAY be the culprit. I am seeing similar
> symptoms from two very different types of plants with very
> different soils and very different moisture requirements, so I
> do not think its a fungus or rot problem..I have not had the
> plants for what I would concider long enough for fungus or
> rot to have had the impact that I've seen...

Probably the cheapest thing to do would be to haul some empty
milk jugs to the nearest public park for filling...

Are you seeing leaf "burning"?  If you're not, it's probably
time to hunt up a plant pathology textbook and/or a real live
plant pathologist.  (Excess Na almost always causes leaf burning)

Kay Klier   Biology Dept  UNI
From: brian@baja.Corp.Sun.COM (Brian Edge)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Mushrooms in my lawn
Date: 16 Oct 92 22:43:15 GMT
Reply-To: brian@baja.Corp.Sun.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
NNTP-Posting-Host: baja.corp.sun.com

How can I get rid of the mushrooms growing in my lawn?  I pull them up
but many more seem to follow.  Why are they growing in my lawn but
not my neighbors?

Thanks

Brian
From: ted.jensen@spacebbs.com (Ted Jensen) 
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Poinsettia Question - How to Force Blooms?
Date: 7 Oct 92 11:12:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: SPACE BBS - Menlo Park, CA - 10 Lines + 4gB - 415-323-4193
Reply-To: ted.jensen@spacebbs.com (Ted Jensen) 



M23133@mwvm.mitre.org writes:

> I have a poinsettia plant that I would like to force into bloom
> for Christmas this year.  Does anyone know the best way of doing
> this?? The plant is about 4 years old, and has not bloomed since
> I first got it.

From "Reader's Digest Illustrated Guide to Gardening"
ISBN 0-394-21707-1, page 423:

"Discard plant in spring after bracts fade; or repot in spring in
larger pot.  Cut back to force new growth.  Place outdoors in
full sun during summer, and water regularly.  In midfall bring
indoors; give 12-14 hr. daily of steady darkness by covering with
black cloth or bputting plants in closet until buds form.
Minimum temperature: 60-65 degrees F."

I haven't tried it myself.  I have a poinsettia in a pot that we
received as a gift last year.  It has been setting outside in
shade since then, gets watered regularly, and has about tripled
in size.  I had not read the above until recently.  Since it has
been in the shade, I am not sure whether it will work, but this
week I intend to get something to cover it with and bring it
inside to see if I can get it to "bloom".

Good luck!  Ted Jensen  Redwood City, Calif


 * SLMR 2.1a *
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Forcing fressia - varieties available?
Date: 12 Oct 92 19:39:10 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

Bob Kyweriga <bobk2@cfsmo.honeywell.com> writes:
> 	I was planning to force some fressia corms this winter,
> 	and was wondering what varieties are available.  I found 
> 	that McClurie & Zimmerman and the Wayside catalogs
> 	carried the corms.  Can they be found in any other catalogs.
 A number of the bulb specialists carry freesias-- and they _do_
smell wonderful!  Try John Scheepers...  

 When I lived in S. California, freesias were commonly planted in 
the late fall, and bloomed in the winter.  They're a little tougher
to grow if you don't have cool, wet weather-- they really do best in
a 50oF greenhouse.  I've not had much luck producing decent plants
on the windowsill-- either the room is too warm, or the tips freeze
against the glass, or I forget to water and the leaf tips burn
anyway.  Sigh.  So I just fork out some cash for cut freesias in
February.  Sigh.

Kay  (USDA zone 4)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: clarke@watson.ibm.com (Ed Clarke)
Subject: Books!
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 17:08:25 GMT
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center

In article <1992Oct14.155615.7649@iscsvax.uni.edu>,klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes:
|>   If the answer is yes, I'd look at picture charts of mineral deficiency
|>   symptoms and see if there were any close matches (try a general botany,
|>   horticulture, or agronomy _textbook_).  I'd also strongly consider a

Ok, that does it!  One thing this group really needs is a review of some
specific books.  Kay mentioned "Hortus Third" before; I bought it and it's
wonderful.  I did a small review of "How to know the Hornworts and 
Liverworts" a while ago but never posted it.  It'd sure be nice if people
would post review of outstanding books (FAQ fodder?) ...

Information in reviews should contain ISBN, author, size, cost and publisher
as well as whether or not you think the book is valuable.  I suspect that
reviews should only be of GOOD books with only minor comments on bad ones.
( i.e. I didn't like xxxxx because it recommended poison ivy as a ground
cover.  yyyyy has nice pictures and would make a good coffee table book
but has no real information in it )

Ed Clarke
clarke@watson.ibm.com
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: james@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (James White)
Subject: Composting in general.
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 17:28:14 GMT
Reply-To: JamesWhite@vnet.ibm.com
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM Rochester


I won't pick on anyone for trying hard to make perfect compost, but
I do find it somewhat funny all the things people do.  I for one
throw absolutely everything on the pile.  If it starts looking (or
smelling) bad, I turn it over a little.  Every now and then I start
a new pile and use the old pile as garden and flower bed enhancer.

Don't flame me for this, but this is some of the things that make
it to my pile.

apples
garden stuff
rabbit manure
all kitchen scraps
paper products like napkins, newspaper
meat scraps and meat wrapping paper
bones
chicken and turkey feathers
leaves


Since I gather up and haul my own trash, we have a rule that
anything that an animal (skunk, squirrel, raccoon, mink, cat) might
be interested in goes in the pile.  This way I can accumulate the
non smelly stuff a few months before I make the trip to the waste
to energy burner.

Lately I have employed 25 chickens and 9 turkeys to turn over the
compost pile.  They do a wonderful job, but I have occasionly found
them eating on the job. 

-- 

James White
From: pharvey@mipos3.intel.com (Paul Harvey)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: help my poor redbuds
Date: 15 Oct 92 17:33:15 GMT
Organization: noitazinagrO

In article <1992Oct14.155724.27813@news.eng.convex.com> 
newton@convex.com (Vicki Newton) writes:
>klier@iscsvax.uni.edu responded to me:
>>> Are your neighbor's trees under a streetlight and yours not?  If so,
>>> you've got your answer.
>no such luck.  neighbors on both sides of us and 2 across the street
>all have redbuds and mine are the only ones turning yellow and none
>of us have a streetlight nearby.  would an iron supplement be the
>right direction to head in?  i know that was what my local plant dude
>suggested when my pine was turning brown.

I strongly suggest that this time of year you leave it alone. It is going
dormant anyway, it may be that your tree is smarter than the rest of the trees
on the block and has predicted an early hard freeze. Throwing chemicals at
it now is almost guaranteed to cause trouble, most likely it will force the
tree into active growth and then winter will come and kill it. Look for
nutrient problems in spring and summer for deciduous plants, leave them in
peace in fall. If you irrigate, it is advisable to cut way back to encourage
dormancy. Never apply fertilizer in fall to a deciduous plant or an
evergreen plant that is marginal on cold tolerance. It's the equivalent of
giving you a warm cup of hot chocolate and then sending you out into -40 
without clothes. You'll have fun for a while but it won't last.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Forcing oak acorns to germinate
From: pmisra@desire.wright.edu
Date: 7 Oct 92 19:41:31 EST
Organization: Wright State University 

My previous message failed so I am trying again. I needed
information on to force aok acorns to germinate. Do they
need to be wintered over, if so, how do I accomlish that
and when do I plant them in whatever groing medium etc etc

Thanks in advance for you help.

Pradeep Misra
From: Ecology Center <ecologycntr@igc.apc.org>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Date: 12 Oct 92 11:05 PDT
Subject: Re: HELP! What to do about insects (fly
Nf-ID: #R:netnews.upenn.edu:92582:cdp:1453300092:000:364
Nf-From: cdp.UUCP!ecologycntr    Oct 12 11:05:00 1992


Not to gripe tony, but...
maybe in the future you should find the answer to your second question
before using several different chemicals to kill the insects?

It's more likely that you'll damage your health (not to mention your lawn)
by reflexively using chemicals, especially in combination, then by letting
periodic "blooms" of insects spend themselves.

chris
From: ramirez@julia.math.ucla.edu (Alice Ramirez)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: apple trees
Date: 15 Oct 92 01:31:20 GMT
Organization: UCLA Mathematics Department

Concerning on the size to which apple trees can grow.  I attended a farm
conference a few years back and an apple grower from the north country
(of Cal) described how they kept the tree to managable size.

They started with a "whip"  i.e. a tall, single trunk (scion grafted to
whatever is the proper rootstock for apples in this area).  They then
cut this to about a foot above the ground (above the graft, of course).
This was done while the young tree was dormant, of course, and in spring
the tree thus pruned branched out.  These branches were then trained to a
wire trellis of some sort.  Basically espalier, but on a larger, more
sophisticated scale.  What I guess I'm trying to say is that all these trees
can be kept to a reasonable size. They don't HAVE to grow 40 feet tall.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: GC.SUL@forsythe.stanford.edu (Sullivan)
Subject: info wanted on propagating Ca.natives
Organization: Stanford University, California, USA
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 19:46:02 GMT

Anyone out there doing any fall propagating of California natives?
I am starting up again since our weather is cooling a bit. I have
started some seeds hoping I can sneak them through the winter-our
daytime temps are warm enough to start genmination.


This weekend I hope to get my mist system put back up and in a
couple of weeks it will be cool enough to start cuttings.

Would appreciate information on any of the following:
Arctostaphylos, Garrya, Ribes, Ceanothus, Calycanthus

I have been very sucessful propagating Penstemons, Zauschineria,

Redbud, Toyon, Salvias (except S.sonomensis), Romneya, Trichostemma,
Isomeris, Diplacus and others.  would be glad to share info.

Karen
From: mnb@voodoo.boeing.com (Mike Burr)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Apple tree question
Date: 15 Oct 92 19:49:45 GMT
Organization: Boeing Graphics project, Bellevue WA

In article <1992Oct14.200848.16501@watson.ibm.com> clarke@watson.ibm.com (Ed Clarke) writes:
>In article <1992Oct14.174023.27701@njitgw.njit.edu>, smt2626@hertz.njit.edu (sylvia m tou mfen stnt) writes:
>|> a big mistake or not.  Other than having to "collect" the rotten apples
>|> that fall off and have been eaten off by animals and bugs what
>|> other problems would I be facing.  Thanks.
>
>Well .... some of those apple trees get big - really big.  I didn't realize
>that the tree across the street from me was an apple until the apples fell
>on the ground because I'd never seen a forty foot tall apple tree before.
>This thing is about ten feet higher than the telephone pole next to it!
>
>I guess you have to keep pruning apple trees or look for some dwarf variety.

Actually the trees on dwarf and semi-dwarf root stock are very nice and 
quite easy to care for.  The also yield a lot of full sized fruit.  I 
would much rather have 3 dwarfs of different variaties than one monster
tree thats hard to prune etc.  I've got 7 dwarfs in my yard and I love
them.


-- 
Michael Burr   mnb@voodoo.boeing.com  | Boeing Computer Services, Bellevue WA
From: jewett@hpl-opus.hpl.hp.com (Bob Jewett)
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 21:28:33 GMT
Subject: Re: BIOLOGICAL ALCHEMY
Organization: HP Labs, High Speed Electronics Dept., Palo Alto, CA
Newsgroups: rec.gardens

Fellow rec.gardens readers,

If you are perplexed by Mr. McElwaine's posting, ask him directly for
an explanation.   As you can note from his message, his email address
is mcelwre@cnsvax.uwec.edu.

Bob
From: cusanell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Dominic Cusanelli)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: HOT PEPPER SCALE
Date: 9 Oct 92 13:07:04 GMT
Reply-To: cusanell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Dominic Cusanelli)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

For anyone who has expressed an interest in a hot pepper scale, here 
are a few scales I have compiled over the last few months, both from 
the net and other sources.  The final column is my own perception of 
a pepper heat index, however it is suspect because it's my own taste 
(I used a 1-10 scale as in "The Great Chile Book" so I arbitrarily 
assigned habeneros a 10 as in the book).  I mentioned only peppers 
which appeared in at least two sources.

SOURCE (1)  "The Great Chile Book" by M. Miller, scale of 1-10 (10 is 
hottest)
SOURCE (2)  Redwood City Seed Company, "HS" Hot Sauce scale, ounces 
of sauce that will be detectably hot with one ounce of chiles
SOURCE (3)  "The Whole Chile Pepper Magazine", Scoville Unit scale 
X1000, obtained by high pressure liquid chromatography
SOURCE (4)  My own palette

ALL SOURCES:  (d) dried,  (f) fresh

Aji Rojo, (1) 7-8.5 f, (2) 3500 d, (3) 30-50 f	
Anaheim, (1) 2-3 f, (2) 25 f, (4) 2 f
Ancho, (1) 5 d, (2) 50 f, (4) 2-3 f
Cayenne, (1) 8 d, (2) 2500 f, (3) 30-50 f, (4) 8 f, 7 d
Cherry Red, (1) 3 f, 3 d, (4) 4 f
Chipotle, (1) 6 d, (2) 2500 d, (3) 50-100 f	
De Arbol, (1) 7.5 d, (2) 8000 d, (3) 15-30 f	
Guajillo, (1) 2-4 d, (2) 1300		
Habenero, (1) 10 d, (2) 2500 f ,10000 d, (3) 100-300 f, (4) 10 f	
Jalapeno, (1) 5.5 f, (2) 400 f, (3) 2.5-5 f, (4) 5 f
Pequin, (1) 8.5 d, (2) 20000 d, (3) 30-50 f
Problano, (1) 3 f, (2) 135 f, (4) 2-3 f
Rocoto, (1) 7-8 f, (3) 30-50 f
Serrano, (1) 7 f, 7.5 d, (2) 133 f, (3) 5-15 f, (4) 6 f
Tabasco, (1) 9 f, (2) 10000 f, (3) 30-50 f, (4) 9 f
Tepin, (1) 8 f, 8 d, (2) 13000 f, 50000 d
Thai, (1) 7-8 f, (2) 6700 d, (3) 50-100 f, (4) 9 f
Yellow Wax, (1) 1 f, (3) 5-15 f, (4) 2 f
Newsgroups: rec.gardens