HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: blgardne@javelin.sim.es.com (Dances With Bikers)
Subject: Speakers for Toyota Xtracab truck?
Reply-To: blgardne@javelin.sim.es.com
Organization: Evans & Sutherland Computer Corporation
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 18:45:56 GMT

I'm looking for suggestions for speakers for a '92 Toyota Xtracab truck.
The stock speakers are a pair of 3.5" in the lower dash, and an optional
pair of unknown size (probably 5-6") in the rear, mounted in panels
under the rear side windows. Since I didn't waste money on the "good"
factory stereo, I didn't get the rear speakers, but a pair of storage
compartments. The compartment openings are about 8.75"x9.5", and 4-4.5"
deep, so it looks like a larger speaker should fit, though I'll have to
create some mounting brackets.

I'm leaning toward a pair of 6x9" or 8" (does anyone make one?) coax for
the rear, and abandoning the dash mounted 3.5" for a pair of 4-6" coax
(or possibly a seperate tweeter/midrange combination) mounted in the doors.
If anyone has done something similar, I'm interested in both speaker and
mounting suggestions. At a wild guess, I'd figure on spending $300-400
on the speakers. I'm planning a system with a CD player and about 30-40
watts/channel. My musical tastes are largely 'classic' rock, if that
colors your suggestions any.

Thanks for any ideas.
-- 
Blaine Gardner @ Evans & Sutherland  blgardne@javelin.sim.es.com  BIX:blaine_g
580 Arapeen Drive, SLC, Utah 84108           Favorite road signs:
Dumper of Dirtbikes #46             FJ1200   Winding Road Next 77 Miles
My other motorcycle is a Quadracer           Caution: Passing Areas Not Marked
From: rob.runkle@cccbbs.UUCP (Rob Runkle) 
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: IASCA FINALS
Date: 3 Oct 92 00:11:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Cincinnati Computer Connection BBS - Cincinnati, OH - 513-752-8248
Reply-To: rob.runkle@cccbbs.UUCP (Rob Runkle) 

Good luck to all who made it to the finals this year.  I am going but I
won't be competing this year.  I got to build the system first.  I will
be looking for ideas to add to my own and I expect to be ther next year
(hopefully).
Any one who is competing leave their name and car descript so I can
check you out.
                Thanks,  Rob Runkle
                                    
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: mike%jim.uucp@wupost.wustl.edu (Mike S.)
Subject: Re: Wood for Subwooferd
Organization: BITS, St. Louis, MO
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1992 17:52:06 GMT

>Lots of people use MDF (NOT particle board), as it is very dense and rigid.

What is MDF?  I was under the impression that it WAS a type of particle
board.

I thought there were two kinds of particle board, the very dense
kind made of extremely small pieces (which is what I thought MDF was),
and the rougher kind composed of larger wood chips (which most people
think of as particle board--I believe it is used in roofing and other
heavier-construction type applications).

So, is MDF actually a type of particle board, or is it something else?

Mike
-- 
mike%jim.uucp@wupost.wustl.edu
From: hhtra@usho21.hou281.chevron.com (T.M.Haddock)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: help: how to replace $600 stolen radio ?
Keywords: insurance value $600, suggestions ?
Date: 1 Oct 92 19:49:04 GMT
Organization: Chevron

In article <1992Oct1.100012@is.morgan.com>, sergei@is.morgan.com (Sergei Poliakoff) writes:
|> The question is :
|> 	what pullout AM/FM/CD can be had for about $620, equipment + work,
|> 	considering that the console is really made for double-height unit ? 

 You can get any brand of AM/FM/CD deck but Nakamichi installed for $620!
 Adaptor plates are available to fill the gap between the deck and the hole.
 But, I recommend only $320 on the deck and $300 on a alarm! 

 If not, the REAL question is:   WHY BOTHER!

 If ya leave your windows down, doors unlocked, and don't take preventive
 measures, you should just buy a BOOM BOX/GHETTO BLASTER!  That way you 
 can have a true REMOVABLE unit and still leave the torn up hole in the
 dash as a sign to the next thief.  This guy's probably got ya'll marked.
 If you replace that unit, and don't change your habits, he'll be back to
 get the new one too!

 Sheesh, sorry to flame on but ...


|> On the third night, he succeded. Sounds weird, but what can you do ?)

 On the third night, I'd been there with my 12 ga!

 Of course, here in Texas you can use deadly force to protect property.

 Say ya'll didn't tell that little story to the insurance company did ya?
 They've got this thing called CONTRIBUTORY NEGLEGENCE.  If ya had, you
 probably wouldn't have gotten a dime!
From: sabiani@droogs.vbo.dec.com (Stephane SABIANI)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: RE: A FRENCH LOOKING FOR
Date: 28 Sep 92 16:49:13 GMT
Reply-To: sabiani@droogs.vbo.dec.com (Stephane SABIANI)
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation


Hello Bill,

Could you please try to fax me your doc ? 
my number is (33) 93 61 77 91 that's in France.

Thanks,
Stephane.
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: bell@asdsun.larc.nasa.gov (John Bell)
Subject: Re: mail order stereo
Organization: NASA Langley Research Center, Hampton, VA  USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 15:00:07 GMT

In article <BvHwMo.Au@ssesco.com>, nau@ssesco.com (William Nau) writes:
|> >could someone please send me the telephone numbers of
|> >mail order (discount) places for auto stereo equipment?
|> >thanks.
|> 
|> While it's an understandable question, it get asked a lot.
|> Perhaps we should consider adding a list of places (ones to
|> try and ones to stay the hell away from) and add it to the
|> FAQ list.  I don't remember seeing anything like it in the
|> FAQ.

I've been reading this group for several months now and that's the first I've heard of an FAQ! Could someone please send a copy to me? Thanks.

-----
John Bell
NASA Langley Research Center
bell@haloe.larc.nasa.gov
From: Mike Stukalin
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Need amp!
Date: 30 Sep 92 18:21:00 GMT
Organization: Eastman Kodak Company, Rochester NY
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

I need an amp for my C-8 sub. Anything that bridges to 70 Watts and up and
2 Ohm stable will do (I only got 1 sub).
Or else, I'll put my Alpine 3513 bridged on the sub (has anybody tried this?
is power adequate?)
If I do that, I gonna need another amp for my front 4" Yamahas. Anything
around 25-30 Watt RMS should do. 
If anybody has one of the above, please let me know asap. Price is pretty much
the biggest consideration, put I don't want to buy Radio Shack type components
at any price.

I'm also still looking for Delco AM/FM/Cassete unit from mid-80's GM cars.
Anything in working order with a tape will do. My wife wants it, help!
She wouldn't let me buy any toys untill I find her the stupid Delco. You get
the idea.
Please email to mns6569@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
or call 716-244-7914
Mike.S
From: gt0869a@prism.gatech.EDU (WATERS,CLYDE GORDON)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: 2 subs vs. 4
Date: 4 Oct 92 19:25:09 GMT
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology

In article <1aj5fvINNf2u@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> kmr4@po.CWRU.Edu (Keith M. Ryan) writes:
>Here's why. Assuming the speakers are the same in every aspect ( not very
>likely, but... ), then the same power into 4 10" and 2 10" DVC's should
>result in a similar volume. However, the excursions of the 4 10"'er will

No, the output from the 4 10" woofers will in theory be 3 dB louder. 
This is from mutual coupling- every time you double the # of drivers,
sensitivity should go up 3 dB (double the acoustic output for the same
poewr) This is one reason small amp systems with 130+ dB output exist-
get enough drivers next to each other, and they will get LOUD! 

While this doesn't always work exactly to theory (What does ?!) due 
to losses, bad placement, etc- it does work to more or less extent in
all multiple driver systems. I have both calculated (I wish I could find
the class notes) and observed this in practice.

REgards,
Gordon.

-- 
WATERS,CLYDE GORDON-Georgia Institute of Technology Atlanta Ga 30332 
******<LANGUAGE IS A VIRUS! - Laurie Anderson-Home of the Brave>******* 
uucp:	  ...!{decvax,hplabs,ncar,purdue,rutgers}!gatech!prism!gt0869a
Internet: gt0869a@prism.gatech.edu
From: jcg2@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (JASON GIRARD)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Stereo Info.
Date: 28 Sep 92 00:02:42 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University


    I'm a freshman at Lehigh and I've been into car audio for almost a year
    now.  My past (and first) system consisted of a Pioneer GM-H100 amp
    bridged to two Pioneer 10-in. subs in parallel in a homeade enclosure
    built to spec.; a crutchfield 4x50P amp to two peerless midbass and two
    Pyle 5-in. mids, and a Jensen A-80 amp to two Targa TW-3 tweeters.  I had
    a Toshiba deck running to a Yamaha 400YGE EQ w/built-in 3-way crossover
    (sub at 80 hz).
    This coming summer, when I get back home from college, I plan to upgrade
    my system.  In my first system, I had everything running off one battery,
    and I could see the lights dim when the bass hit.  I'm goint to need an
    alternate battery, but I don't know how to hook up a second battery.
    Also, what role does an alternator play in the system?  Will I have to
    upgrade it, and if so, how?  Any info. or suggestions would be extremely
    helpful to me.
    Lastly, I had my sub enclosure resting on the backseat.  I noticed that
    the bass inside the car was intense, but outside it wasn't very
    impressive.  Could this be due to the fact that the enclosure wasn't
    secured to a solid place?
        Any suggestions anyone could provide about any part of my system would
    be greatly appreciated (I am on a budget, you know).
        If anyone wants to write, please do:
                  Jason Girard
                  BOX 489
                  Lehigh University
                  29 Trembley Drive
                  Bethlehem PA 18015-3041
        Thanx a million and keep on boomin'!
                                      -Jason

                                      
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: mxl@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (marc.a.levy)
Subject: Wood for Subwooferd
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 12:00:53 GMT


What kind of wood is best to use for Subwoofers?

I have read a few articles that mentioned different woods, but
with verry little explination.

Marc.

Organization: Senior, Electrical and Computer Engineering, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Date: Fri,  2 Oct 1992 20:08:20 -0400 
From: Amit Likhyani <al1x+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: Car Insurance Was Re: help: how to replace $600 stolen radio ?

Excerpts from netnews.rec.audio.car: 2-Oct-92 Car Insurance   Was Re:
hel.. by T.M.Haddock@usho21.hou28 
>    But now, if I fail to arm it and stuff happens - low 
>    to no dough.  Especially, not for any hi-end audio gear.

How the hell are they going to know whether you armed it or not?
From: Zapper@qube.OCUnix.On.Ca (Zapper)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: ALL YOU MOTHER FUCKERS BETTER READ THIS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Date: 27 Sep 92 17:19:51 GMT
Organization: The QuBE BBS

In a message dated Sun 26 Sep 92  9:45, Bs753@cleveland.freenet.edu

                                                        ^^^^^^^
                                                           |
                            This just says it all to me right there...

-- Via DLG Pro v0.992

------------------------------------------------------------------------
  Zapper@qube.ocunix.on.ca | "Twenty ****ing five to one...
    University of Ottawa   |  Me gambling days are done...
    Computer Engineering   |  I bet on a horse called a bottle of smoke
       (Trevor Boicey)     |  And my horse won..." - The Pogues
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: Mark Kovarski <kovarski@zooid.guild.org>
Subject: Simulation Software
Organization: ZOOiD BBS
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 18:05:52 GMT


I would like to know if anyone has ever experiemented with PC software
that simulates enclosures and other criteria. I know of one piece of
software called "BlauBox" by Blaupunkt but are there any others? I
have not been able to allocate any PD/Shareware/Commerical software
that will do just that.

While speaking of car systems, are there any books that cover high-
performace car audio installation? It seems like the only thing to
go by are the magazines such as Car Audio, Audio Security and Sound
(my favourite). I like those magazines but there are a few things that
I would add to make them even more interesting.

Any information is greatly appreciated.

Sincerely,
Mark Kovarski
E-Mail: kovarski@zooid.guild.org

Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: gregpen@crash.cts.com (Greg Penetrante)
Subject: Re: ALL YOU MOTHER F***ERS BETTER READ THIS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Date: 30 Sep 92 21:39:55 GMT

In <thumper.717635816@garfield.catt.ncsu.edu> thumper@garfield.catt.ncsu.edu (Chris Mojica) writes:

>>In article <1a3flgINNks5@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> bs753@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Brett J Grimes) writes:
>>>
>>>ALL YOU MOTHER F***ERS HAVE THAT G*D DAMN RAP SH*T, GOING DOWN THE
>>>MOTHER F***ING STREET AT 3:00 AM IN THE F***ING MORNING SH*T HAS 
>>>GOT TO STOP. IM SICK OF YOU MOTHER F***ERS!!!!! TURN THE F***ING SHIT
>>>DOWN. I DON'T WANT TO HEAR THAT SHIT, SOME OF US HAVE A GOD DAMN JOB AND
>>>HAVE TO GET UP EARLY.  SO F*** ALL YALL!!!!!!!!!

>Why don't you give me your address just so I can go BOOM! BOOM! by your house.
>What a geek, where did he learn such obscene language.  Geeezzzzz.......


Oh, C'Mon, PEOPLES!

You ALL use this language, too. Please resist the "elitist" urge to chaff 
someone who does the same thing that we all do... blow up and say "shit" and
"fuck" at different times of the day (for those Kollege stoodentz out there)

:-)  :-) :-)

Or at least if you know you don't say "shit" and "fuck" you probably say it in
a DIFFERENT language whose words mean essentially the same thing.


:-)   :-)
From: hhtra@usho21.hou281.chevron.com (T.M.Haddock)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: T.M.Haddock where are you?
Date: 5 Oct 92 15:26:11 GMT
Organization: Chevron

In article <2310@h.cs.wvu.wvnet.edu>, jms@a.cs.wvu.wvnet.edu (J Michael Salkovick) writes:
|> 	Please send me your internet address...I have been trying to
|> reply to your mail message of two weeks ago with no success...

  Sorry about the trouble anybody's been having.

  We've been having site problems.  Choose any of the following:

  o  Chevron just went though "right-sizing" and "re-organization"
     and things are a little messed up.     

  o  Moved to new net servers and netware.

  o  Refine/improvement/efficiency efforts back-firing.


  But, we may lose access altogether.  It seems that "upper"
  management has just been made aware of such newsgroups as
  "alt.wanted.kinky.sex" and have ordered the ENTIRE "alt"
  tree disconnected!  If we're not careful "rec" may be next. :(


  See ya,

  TRAVIS

  Email:  hhtra@hou281.chevron.com
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: walshs@cs.uwp.edu (Steven Walsh)
Subject: Sony car amps for sale
Organization: University of Wisconsin - Parkside
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 04:29:58 GMT

I currently have two car amps that I'm not using...
I purchased them about 4 months ago, and pulled them out because
I sold my car:

	(1)  XM-5520, 55Watts X 2 RMS, 0.008% THD
	(2)  XM-5540, 55Watts X 4 or 120Watts X 1, 55Watts X2
		      or 120Watts X 2 (RMS), 0.008% THD

I also have a bazooka bass tube with two 10" woofers...
I wanna get rid of them...

Please leave me mail if you are interested.  Make an offer.   

/walshs


Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: tjd28@cas.org ()
Subject: Alternators and Amps
Organization: Hapless Hackers Corp.
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 12:31:26 GMT

I am nearly finished with my install and have a few questions...

I will be running two Punch 45 amps, and I am not sure if I need a
bigger alternator?  If I do, how much should I expect to pay for one?
I have a '91 Talon and ran a Coustic 460 before and never seemed to
have any problems.

I am going to run one Punch to 2 12" Kicker Competition Subs in sealed
1.9 cuft enclosures and I was wondering how to wire them.  Also I will
be running 2 Kicker 14mm tweeters, 2 Kicker 5 1/4" mid-ranges and 2
Sony 6x9's off the other Punch.  How should I wire them, and how should
I run them through the crossover?  The tweeters and 5 1/4's have there
own passive crossovers that came with them, so do I need to run them
through my active (Coustic XM-3) crossover?

Thanks alot,

Trav           Soon to be boomin' again
tjd28@cas.org
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: brian@pawnee.eel.ufl.edu (Brian Gentry)
Subject: Re: DYNAMAT---NO@
Organization: UF EE Department (student)
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 92 21:02:48 GMT

In article <2715.110.uupcb@cccbbs.UUCP>, rob.runkle@cccbbs.UUCP (Rob Runkle)  writes:
|>         Anyone know of a good substitue to dynamat.  There has got to
|> be other products out there that are just as good or better and that
|> may be more reasonable in cost.  I will use Dynamat if quality is at
|> risk though.  The problem is Dynamat had got the market covered and can
|> set the price.  Help!!!
|>                 Thanxs  Rob Runkle
|>                                              

Car undercoating (black tar-like sticky stuff) will probably do an
excellent job of damping resonances in metal panels.  I seem to remember
reading about someone having good results with it.  Of course it's not
DynaMat, but it also doesn't have Dynamat's price (a patent pending 
feature I think).

			Brian L. Gentry
		     (brian@sioux.eel.ufl.edu)
From: walkerr@banzai.WPI.EDU (Robert A Walker)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: large capacitors
Date: 2 Oct 1992 16:17:36 GMT
Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute
NNTP-Posting-Host: banzai.wpi.edu

>I have seen many installations and heard much talk here about the use
>of large capacitors in car audio set ups.  What are they used for?

They are used in parellel with the car battery so that when a bass note
sucks all the juice out of the battery the capacitors keep a steady and
constant supply of power going to the amp for the high end.
Am I correct?
From: kmr4@po.CWRU.Edu (Keith M. Ryan)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: THE FINAL WORD ON POW
Date: 29 Sep 1992 15:13:37 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: kmr4@po.CWRU.Edu (Keith M. Ryan)
NNTP-Posting-Host: thor.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, yystg@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov (STEVE GRAHAM) says:


>
>Hey, someone who makes sense!

There are several things that I do not get:

	1) If one can hear a difference between regular copper wires, and
	ultra low oxygen ones, then:
		a) Why do the lowgrade steel on the frame not make a
		difference. Sure, such a frame would have a lower resistance,
		but wouldn't a ultra low oxygen ground wire work better?
		b) Most car's ground straps are just exposed coper or even
		aluminum braided cables. Why is this better than a ULOcopper
		ground wire?
		c) The same goes of the automotive cable between the alter-
		nator and the battery. 

	Now, don't get me wrong. I use good quality cables, not because of
any mysticisms, but because they tend to be more flexible, and better insu-
lated. However, I buy mine at ~$.50/m. This is for 4 ga! And, I buy original
Monster Cable speaker wire 10 ga. for about the same. However, I do buy more
more expensive co-ax's as my car needs the very heavy shielded kinds. Buying
any cable which is substantually more expensive, is a waste IMHO. The money
would be better spent on buying damping material for the doors, floorboard,
etc. The improvements will be vastly greater. 
-- 
	Mr. Bush has the dubious distinction of the second largest tax
raise in US history; right behind Mr. Reagan. They're the real slickersters,
with their theivery fingers in our wallets, with a grin and a gleem in their 
eyes.   What a "no new taxes" bastard.
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: wwein@scott.skidmore.edu (warren wein)
Subject: Re: CDs for car stereo
Organization: Skidmore College, Saratoga Springs NY
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 17:01:06 GMT


	Well, the one album I have from the list is Schreikback "The
Dancing Years".

						wwein@skidmore.edu

-- 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"In no sense?  Nonsense." AON

"Female Cathons pick their mates by the size of their balls" -TN
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: mike%jim.uucp@wupost.wustl.edu (Mike S.)
Subject: Speaker enclosure filler
Organization: BITS, St. Louis, MO
Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1992 21:34:08 GMT
Summary: Need advice on speaker enclosure filler material
Keywords: speaker enclosure filler material car audio subwoofer


I recently built my first speaker (subwoofer) enclosure, of
a custom size and shape.  It turns out its peak frequency
is a bit higher than I would have liked, but due to the
nature of its location, a bigger enclosure is not desireable.

Have any of you had any experience adding filler material to enclosures?
I seem to recall some r.a.c. discussion on the subject, and someone
said that using filler material simulated some of the properties
of a larger enclosure.

 - What sort of material should be used?
 
 - How densely should it be packed?
 
 - How much of a difference does it make?

This enclosure is not ported.

Thanks for any help!

Mike
-- 
mike%jim.uucp@wupost.wustl.edu
From: jms@a.cs.wvu.wvnet.edu (J Michael Salkovick)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Dealer Phone # for T.M.Haddock
Date: 30 Sep 92 13:11:20 GMT

Travis,

	Since I have had no success at emailing you...I will just post
the number...

		Sound Investments
		(304) 296-HIFI

	I do not know the address...If you call, I'm sure they will be
happy to give it up.

Mike
-- 
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
J. Michael Salkovick  jms@a.cs.wvu.wvnet.edu | "Tryin' to be a pimp...
WVU Computer Science Department              | ...Drive a Nissan Sentra" - YoYo
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
From: hhtra@usho21.hou281.chevron.com (T.M.Haddock)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Wood for Subwooferd
Date: 1 Oct 92 21:23:24 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Chevron

In article <BvGH5I.J7H@news.larc.nasa.gov>, bell@asdsun.larc.nasa.gov (John Bell) writes:
|> In article <1992Oct01.175206.15957%jim.uucp@wupost.wustl.edu>, mike%jim.uucp@wupost.wustl.edu (Mike S.) writes:
|> |> >Lots of people use MDF (NOT particle board), as it is very dense and rigid.
|> |> 
|> |> What is MDF?  I was under the impression that it WAS a type of particle
|> |> board.
|> |> 
|> |> I thought there were two kinds of particle board, the very dense
|> |> kind made of extremely small pieces (which is what I thought MDF was),
|> |> and the rougher kind composed of larger wood chips (which most people
|> |> think of as particle board--I believe it is used in roofing and other
|> |> heavier-construction type applications).
|> |> 
|> |> So, is MDF actually a type of particle board, or is it something else?
|> 
|> As mentioned, what most people call particle board is made up of chips of wood
|> (or quite often, not wood: they use corn cobs, sawdust, or whatever is handy).
|> MDF is made of "real" wood that has had the s--t squeezed out of it under high
|> pressure and tempe|> rature. The result is more like wood fibers or threads 
|> than particles. I think MDF stands for Medium Density Fiberboard, but I could
|> be wrong - corrections welcome.

 I agree with ya'll except I hadn't heard about "corn cobs".  I always thought 
 that the main difference was that particle board just had the "s__t" squeezed
 out of it while MDF had the "S__T"!!! squeezed out of it.  (As John put it)

 Anyway, upon examination, MDF is slightly heavier, slighlty darker, and you
 can't see the individual "grains" or "paritcles" as well when viewed edgewise.