HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: Joe Laur@chekov.helios.nd.edu (Joe Laur)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Questions about Night Design gauges
Date: 28 Jul 92 22:01:35 GMT
Reply-To: jlaur@handel.helios.nd.edu (Joe Laur)
Organization: Student, University of Notre Dame

In article <1992Jul28.154331.11628@tamsun.tamu.edu>, sean@cs.tamu.edu (Sean Graves) writes:
   >
    >My '74 bug has been begging me for some gauges lately (really!).  So
   >I have been thinking about the VDO Night Design gauges.  My questions
   >are
   >  -  Are these good quality?  I mean, the old gauge is VDO and it died
   >     long ago, so should I buy another VDO gauge?

	* Yes, VDO are VERY good quality, guages, and the night design are 
	* the best of the lot.  I've had terrible luck with Motometer,
	* although I may be an isolated case.

   >     If not, what other brands are there?  I read the mags, and that is
   >     the only brand I see.
	
	* make sure you are getting VDO German guages.  They make some
	* in Brazil which are of questionable quality.

   >  -  What are the differences between Night Design and Cockpit, and the
   >     other VDO lines?  I have the impression that Night Design is backlit,
   >     while the others just have side lights shining on the faces, hence
   >     the price difference.
	
	* Correct you are, the back-lighting, with the choice of red, green or
	* white light, is truely superior.  I have turned my dash lights
	* on during the DAY and been able to see the number lit up.

   >  -  In order to duplicate the stock functionality, what do I need to
   >     buy?  I doubt if the Night Design speedo will have the idiot lights,
   >     so I guess I need to buy a oil pressure guage and sender.  What about
   >     odometer?  I'll definitely need a separate fuel gauge.

	* There are many possible sender applications, since VDO makes
	* guages for all kinds of cars, so make sure you talk to 
	* someone who knows what they are talking about.

   >  -  How difficult will it be to install these?  Will the new speedo fit
   >     into the old cutout?  I'm not worried about the other gauges too much.

	* I don't think the VDO speedoes fit in the stock hole, but 
	* I do believe there are good looking adaptor plates made so
	* you can put them in a bug.
	
  >  -  If you have purchased these from a particular shop, and gotten good  
  >       service or pricing, I would appreciate hearing about it.
  >
	* I've had good service and pricing at:

	 Don's Sport Vehicle Sales
	 24514 W. Six Mile
	 Detroit, MI 48219
	 1-313-533-0711

	* I know Don is a warehouse for VDO and he gives good discounts
	* and service.  If you call I know he'll send you a catalog and 
	* price sheet free of charge.  I know he UPS's V.W. and dune buggy
	* stuff all over the world.  Ask for Don, (he really know his stuff)
	* and tell him Joe Laur @ Notre Dame recommended you to him.  
	
  >I asked about gauges a while ago with no response, so if
  >you have any information, please email.  I will summarize to the net.
  >
  >--
  >Sean
  >sean@cs.tamu.edu
   >
   >

						Joe

	sorry, no sig. :-(
From: kirstein@bohemia.metronet.org (Dale Kirstein)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Corrado wheels
Date: 24 Jul 92 04:51:30 GMT
Organization: Bohemia BBS System

I found that the stock wheels do bend a bit easily. Luckily , there is a
shop in Denver that straightens them (at about $60 a pop!). However, I 
needed a second set of wheels for Solo 2 racing. I found a set of 4 wheels
made by progressive (alloy, that is), stock size and offset, for $60 each.
Thats 4 wheels for less than the price of one stock wheel. I only use them
for racing, so I cant comment on their trueness or quality, but they
sure were cheap!.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: ti@bazooka.Altos.COM (Ti Kan)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Fox in Europe?
Date: 23 Jul 92 04:46:44 GMT
Reply-To: ti@bazooka.UUCP (Ti Kan)
Organization: AMB Research Labs, Sunnyvale, CA.

In article <1992Jul21.134532.1181@ciit85.ciit.nrc.ca> orban@ciit85.ciit.nrc.ca writes:
>The VW Fox, the one which is made in Brasil, and sold here in North
>America, is basically an updated, reskinned old Audi 80

Yes, the old "Audi 80" was known as the Audi Fox in North America, and
the VW Dasher (Passat elsewhere).  The VW Fox is known as the VW Voyage
in Brazil.  Although all these cars share a common engine/transmission
layout, the VW Fox is not simply an old Audi Fox in new clothes.
The rear suspension is different, the interior and dashboard are
different, and none of the body panels are interchangeable.

-Ti
-- 
   ///  Ti Kan    vorsprung durch technik
  ///   Internet: ti@bazooka.altos.com
 /////  UUCP:     ...!{uunet,sun,sco,apple,mips}!altos!bazooka!ti
///     AMB Research Laboratories, Sunnyvale, CA.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw,rec.autos.driving,rec.autos
From: burden_d@oass.enet.dec.com ()
Subject: Re: Need advice on hauling
Reply-To: burden_d@oass.enet.dec.com ()
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 17:06:17 GMT


>On the highway just keep an eye on
>the trailer to make sure it's not swaying... if it is, slow down 'til
>it stops.

This is not the proper method for stopping a trailer from swaying, in fact, it
might cause the trailer to jack knife even quicker.

A trailer fish tails because it wants to go faster than the vehicle that is
towing it.  If you then slow down the tow vehicle, the trailer will continue
to sway and more than likely, get worse.

The real solution is to make sure the trailer has brakes.  If it starts swaying,
apply the trailer brakes ONLY.  This should bring it back in line.

If you do not have trailer brakes (and the trailer weight is a significant 
percentage of the tow vehicle weight), the solution for a swaying trailer is
to speed up!  Having said that, I must also admit it is the worst feeling I've
had while driving (or racing) to have the trailer start fish tailing down a
long hill and knowing the only way out is to step on the gas and pull 
out of it.  Of course, this is with a trailer that weighs 4000lbs behind
a van that probably weighed less than that.

The basic thought that goes through your mind is 'we're all going to die, so
let's go faster...'  The two times this has happened to me (once as driver and
once as passenger) are my worse memories of driving.

With a trailer that is lighter than the tow vehicle, the dynamics will be
different and possibly slowing down can stop the swaying, but I just wanted
to say it will not work in all cases.

I have installed a friction type anti-sway device on the hitch so swaying is
no longer a problem (unless the weight distribution is WAY off.)

--
Dave Burden                                      ______--------___
Digital Equip Corp - Alpharetta, GA             /|             / |
                                     o___________|_\__________/__|
burden_d@oass.enet.dec.com          ]|___     |   |=  ||  =|___  |"
                                    //   \\   |   |___||_///   \\|"
                                    |  X  |\-------------/|  X  |\"
                                     \___/ 1924 Studebaker \___/
					Special 6 Touring Car
From: keith@badseed.Eng.Sun.COM (Keith)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: recondition cylinder head - valve job
Date: 23 Jul 1992 17:50:44 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems
Distribution: world
Reply-To: keith@badseed.Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: badseed.eng.sun.com

My wife has the same engine in her '85 Quantum.  The sound you describe sounds
alot like my wife's.  The problem on her car seems to be with the exhaust
manifold.  It seems that it is quite common for the manifold on these engines
to warp and leak causing a tik-tik-tik sound.  Others have told me(same news group)
that they've had similar problems.  Check that out, I too thought it was valve
problems before I sought advice.

Also, could you tell me how much of a pain it was to take the head off the
beast.  I'm considering doing the exhaust manifold, but while I'm in there
I might just want to rework the whole thing.

---

	-Keith

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: jackr@thorodin.dazixco.ingr.com (Jack Reed)
Subject: Re: Advice on purchasing a used Rabbit. 
Reply-To: jackr@thorodin.dazixco.ingr.com
Organization: Dazix
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1992 17:23:55 GMT

In article <maestro.004p@marble.rain.com>, maestro@marble.rain.com (Pat Young) writes:
> Greetings, all.
> 
> I am looking to retire my 1975 Valiantmobile in favor of a Rabbit. I'd like
> some advice on what to look for when buying one. 

Hi Pat

I've got a 77 fuel injected Rabbit that I love and have had for about 5 years
now. It's never given me much in the way of problems that couldn't have been
prevented by early detection and correction, such as broken CV boots causing
premature joint failure or not checking valve clearances which caused the need
for a head rebuild. For the most part it's been extremely reliable and fun to
drive.

I've seen < '81s in the paper for around $1k but you might enjoy the GTI
series with the 16 valve engine more. I can't vouch for repair costs on them
or dependability, but I would assume that they would be higher/lower since 
they have more moving parts. But that's just an assumption on my part, I plan
on buying a GTI or a GLI (jetta 16v) when I can. 

As far as things to look for:
Rust (bad)
Good compression (good)
Fully functional fuel injection (good)
A clean engine (indicates to me that the engine and vehicle were cared for)
Clean interior (ditto)

Look for a car that's only gone through 3 owners at the most. The further 
down the food chain a car is the more abuse it tends to get. I bought mine
from the original owner, a chemical engineer, who took immaculate care of it.
Find out when the oil was changed last and look at, smell and feel the oil for
indications of blowby (prematurely dark color, soon after a change), burnt
odor or grit. Check the CV joint boots for tears, assume they've been that
way for a while and factor in the cost of new joints to the negotiations. Check
that clutch play and feel are good. I've never had problems with the electrical
system so can't point you in any directions there. Check underneath the car
for unusual leaks, either from the engine or tranny. Make sure all hoses are
in place and hooked up. Shy away from conversions, say to carburetion.

Most of the things I've mentioned are just good car shopping techniques and
aren't really specific to the Rabbits. If your mechanical abilities (you don't
really say in your post) aren't up to the tasks outlined take a friend who is.

Good luck, I'll be glad to field questions on anything you happen to turn up.

Jack
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: dsb@s1.gov (David S. Brown)
Subject: Still looking to buy a VW Van
Originator: dsb@s1.gov
Organization: DCSP, Lawrence Livermore National Lab.
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 00:07:36 GMT


I just turned down the last one, so I am still in the market.

Maybe a 60ish or a 1971 model.
-- 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                    
         o o o o o o o . . .                       _____=======_T___      
       O      _____                .__  / .__      |dsbrown@llnl.gov|    
     .][__n_n_|DD[  ====_____      |  \ \ |__)   + | (510) 422-2475 | +     
    >(________|__|_[_________]_|___|__/_/_|__)___|_|__FAX:_423-9572_|_|     
    _/oo OOOO oo   ooo   ooo   'o^o            o^o`'o^o           o^o`      
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
            P.O. Box 808  7000 East Av  L-270  Livermore CA 94550 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: ges@stiatl.salestech.com (Gerald Sullivan)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Difficulty getting into reverse
Date: 22 Jul 92 22:05:30 GMT
Organization: Sales Technologies, Inc.

Every VW I have owned (1980 Rabbit, 87 Golf, 88 Cabrio 90 Corrado)
has had this problem. Shifting to other gears or allowing the car to roll
 slightly fixes it for me.
-- 
___________________________________________________________________
Jerry Sullivan, Sales Technologies, Inc.  Atlanta,GA 
ges@salestech.com,...uupsi!stiatl!ges I don't speak for my employer.
Just say no to Republicrats, vote Libertarian.
From: baw2@cunixb.cc.columbia.edu (Bruce A Weisberg)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Air Colled Busses
Date: 24 Jul 92 16:43:09 GMT
Reply-To: baw2@cunixb.cc.columbia.edu (Bruce A Weisberg)
Organization: Columbia University


 

		My question is:  Many transporters I have seen have that 
classic two-tone paint job.  Did only the Campers and utility vehicles have 
a single color paint job?  



Bruce
From: uclydvh@ucl.ac.uk (Mr David John Howells)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Electronic sensor for timing on VW YP engine.
Date: 24 Jul 92 11:45:41 GMT
Organization: Bloomsbury Computing Consortium

Apparently there is a fixing for an electronic sensor to be fitted
to the VW YP engine (used in some Audi 80 GL's) which the dealers
can use to set the timing.  Does anyone know the form of this sensor
(or even have one!?) - perhaps it's a Hall-effect device or something.

Thanks in advance,

David.


--
David Howells
D.Howells@ucl.ac.uk
From: blu@cellar.org (Dan Reed)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Cracked headlight help
Date: 29 Jul 92 18:58:01 GMT
Organization: The Cellar BBS and public access system

dilmore@cray.com (Robert J. Dilmore) writes:

> 
>     The other day while I was riding home I had a stone hurled at me
> and it put a bullseye type hole in my headlight. Is there anyway to 
> repair the hole?. The headlight for my Passat costs 119.00 to 198.00
> depending on which dealership I ask.

Kinda same happened to my Golf, had a bulls-eye put right in the center VIA 
rock spit up from a truck.  I just figgured  "ah, what the hell", and left 
it, later water got in the head lamp.  Then I decided to "Cook" the water out 
with a gas torch (heat the glass), the glas was tempered, and I figgured it 
could take the heat.. wrong, it cracked, and now, I have *so* much water in 
my head-lamp, that water got on the bulb, and it exploded.

Great, now I need a lens, AND a bulb.  

If there is no water in the lens yet, just fill it in with some bathroom 
caulk to keep the water out..

----- 
 Dan Reed (Blu-Max) blu@cellar.org - AutoCad Geek - VW Lover - InlineSkater 
68' Cougar, 89 VW Golf, 72 Honda CB 360Twin.. what next?
From: ricky@benchmaster.esd.sgi.com (Ricky Cheng)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: GL-4 vs GL-5 Xmission fluids
Date: 23 Jul 92 19:44:58 GMT
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc.

Yesterday, I replaced my original Transmission fluids with Red Line MTL
My feelings are:
1. the gear shifting is a lot smoother
2. the engine needs to work harder to accelarate from 70 to 85 MPH (on
5th)

I am thinking of maybe

1. change it back to the original oil
2. try Red Line MT-90
3. keep using MTL

A friend of mine who has been using Red Line MTL for a while said the
accelation problem will smooth out later...I will see!

Inputs are welcom!

Ricky
From: GARN@SLACVM.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU (GARY NIEMI)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Karmann Ghia info sought
Date: 21 Jul 92 16:28:31 GMT
Organization: Stanford Linear Accelerator Center

I would like to find some sources for Karmann Ghia information.  I have a
'65 Karmann Ghia and I wonder if there is a book that I could use to figure
out what the original parts for the car are.  I would like to generally
restore the car to its original condition.  For instance, the speedometer
doesn't work so I wonder if I could use a Bug speedometer from the same or
other years to replace it.  I've heard of great Bug restoration books, but
none for the Karmann Ghia.  Does the Bentley manual have this type of info?

Also, does anyone know of a place to get original speedometers?  Or should I
hit the junkyards?
-Gary
From: dm4f+@andrew.cmu.edu (David James Madden)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: 76 bus problems
Date: 26 Jul 92 04:54:13 GMT
Organization: Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA

I AM HAVING VAST DIFFICULTIES IN TRYING TO REPAIR MY 76 VW BUS.
I AM HAVING TROUBLE FINDING THE APPROPRIATE PARTS IN THE PITTSBURGH AREA,
AND DON'T KNOW WHERE TO TURN.  ALSO, I'm having trouble getting MY
FRIEND Doug Scliebner laid.  
If you know of any female hockey fans that know anything about love
busses, please reply.
Thank You for all your help.
JUGS AND pistonS.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy)
Subject: Re: Help with Bus Noise
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio, (USA)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 92 13:08:34 GMT


Jim-

I have done exactly this on my '77 bus.  I've kept everything basically
stock (actually this shouldn't be past tense, since I'm in the process
of doing it right now) and simply replaced the heater boxes with
pipes.  My bus never had a catalytic converter, so I don't know what
to tell you there.  But you need what is called an "eliminator" type
of muffler setup, i.e. one that does away with the mess of connecting
pipes in a stock muffler setup.  I've opted for a Monza muffler because
I think they look pretty nifty and from what I understand, they help
with horsepower.  From the heads out, then, the down pipes and "after
burn" pipes (U-shaped pipes) are stock, then a custom welded, stainless
steel pipe where the heater boxes were, then the muffler.  This seems
like it'll work just fine with a few minor customizations (like attaching
the bracket that the alternator mounts to).  It'll probably be slightly
louder than a stock setup: I think heater boxes cut down on noise a bit
and a Monza is slightly louder than stock itself.

Of course, by doing this, instead of being chilly in the cold dark
norther winter, I'm REALLY COLD up here in the cold dark winter. ;-)

Good luck!
Bill
-- 
William Claspy			Case Western Reserve University
Internet- wpc@po.cwru.edu
MaBellnet- (216) 368-3595
From: dali@milton.u.washington.edu (David A. Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: bus engine
Date: 27 Jul 92 06:46:48 GMT
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle

My 1970 Squareback was rebuilt recently but the guy who rebuilt it
overlooked the block and no there is still a little play in the
drive shaft i.e. very slight when accelerating up a hill in second
for just a moment.  It's not bad really, but I notice it.

David
1970 Squareback

-- 
"There are hundreds of tiny balls in every machine, and hundreds of machines
in every pachinko parlour, and a pachinko parlour on every block in every 
town in Japan; so there are billions of little balls falling forever, like a
chromium-plated hailstorm that never melts."  - from "Clive James in Japan"
From: C.Wong1@lut.ac.uk
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: tire recommendation wanted
Date: 29 Jul 92 14:08:05 GMT
Reply-To: C.Wong1@lut.ac.uk (C Wong)
Distribution: rec
Organization: Loughborough University, UK.

hi,
I've got TOYO 660F1, 185/55 15" ZR tyres (yes tyres) on my 16v mkII Golf,
the VW user book says 32/30 F/R psi (half-load) and something like
36/42 F/R psi (full-load). I've inflated mine to 34/32 psi F/R, gives
reasonable handling, their recommendation seems a bit too soft. The only
thing I don't like about them, compared with the OEM fiited tyres
(Continental CV51, same size) is that they make the steering a lot
heavier. Overall I have found the TOYOs to be o.k., much better dry grip,
must be the Z compound. The wet grip is no better or worse than the
CV51, it is very predictable and 'catchable' !!! :-)

I'll either try the new(er) Continental CV90/91s or Bridgestones RE71,
for my next set of tyres. Anyone add any more comments.

p.s. wear has been v.good, even for a Z rated tyre.

regards

Chun
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: u_mitro@mv3800.engr.scarolina.edu (John Mitropoulos)
Subject: Corrado VR6
Reply-To: u_mitro@mv3800.engr.scarolina.edu
Organization: University Of South Carolina, Columbia, SC
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 92 18:05:46 GMT

 I was considering getting a Corrado VR6. When I test drove one at the dealers,
I noticed that the gear shift twisted in my hand every time I changed gears.
Is this normal for this car? If so, then I'll have to get something else since
I can't stand this phenomena.
                                          --john--

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: dilmore@cray.com (Robert J. Dilmore)
Subject: Help on tightening 2.0 Timing belt
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Distribution: usa
Date: 29 Jul 92 08:48:12 CDT

    Good day fellow netters'

   My Passat has just hit the 15,000 mile mark. I have a question about
how to tighten the timing belt on a 2.0 l 16v. The dealer wants to charge   
65.00, cheap in my book. My hesitation for having the dealer not do it has
been well documented on the net. How tough is this to do? The other things
 they want to do are well within my knowledge, I think,ie Tighten the accesory
belts,partless tunup(read fault codes),change oil,inspect brakes. Will I run
into a problem with warranty if I do these myself? Or should I have them do
everything except for the oil change? The total for the works is 165.00.

Robert
From: taylorb@fcs260c.ncifcrf.gov (Brent Taylor)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: GTI A/C
Date: 21 Jul 92 14:32:30 GMT
Organization: Frederick Cancer Research and Development Center

The A/C on my 88 GTI busted the other day.  The compressor and the cooling fan
will not come on.  I've checked the fuse and all electrical connections.
The Bentley manual basically doesn't say beans about the A/C system......so I'm
not sure how to trouble-shoot it.  I noticed a relay out front on top of the
radiator, but don't know if thats involved with running the A/C.  Any ideas, 
or suggestions?

Any help would be appreciated!


----------------------------------------------------------------------
| later,                   B-|            (TAYLORB @ NCIFCRF.GOV)    |
----------------------------------------------------------------------

-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
| later,                   B-|            (TAYLORB @ NCIFCRF.GOV)    |
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: kirstein@bohemia.metronet.org (Dale Kirstein)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Corrado wheels
Date: 31 Jul 92 03:54:41 GMT
Organization: Bohemia BBS System

eliot@stalfos.engr.washington.edu (eliot) writes:

>In article <1992Jul28.201415.12950@uwm.edu> greis@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Gayla Ann Greis) writes:
>>Actually, VW just released a service bul that says that 90 G60s should
>>be set at 41/36. Your 42/38 is pretty good then...

>is that for "full" load or "normal" load?


>eliot
Please note. I have experimented quite a bit on my G60 with tire pressure. 
44 pounds in the frount will improve handling, but your will get very bad
tire wear (the centers will wear ll wear befor the rest of thetire. )It's
your choice!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: jackr@thorodin.dazixco.ingr.com (Jack Reed)
Subject: Re: bugs in the snow?
Reply-To: jackr@thorodin.dazixco.ingr.com
Organization: Dazix
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1992 17:54:43 GMT

In article <1992Jul31.142027.21617@walter.bellcore.com>, jyri@faline.bellcore.com (Jyri Virkki) writes:
> 
> Hello again,
> 
> BTW, yes, I know that the heating in the Bug is not too great, but that
> I can live with; I'm just worried about the car itself.
> 
> I'll appreciate any comments, experiences, stories... 
> 

If you haven't experienced an air-cooled VW in the winter, I thing you should
talk with someone who has. If the heat doesn't work in them (I have an air-
cooled Vanagon in Colorado) they are less than worthless. 

Jack
Organization: Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA