HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: donl@glass.esd.sgi.com (donl mathis)
Subject: Re: Pull-Processing T-Max Sheet Film
Reply-To: donl@glass.esd.sgi.com (donl mathis)
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc., Mountain View, CA, USA
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 05:51:38 GMT


In article <11SEP92.19452480.0054@VM.MPG.MCGILL.CA>,
CCGM@MUSICM.MCGILL.CA (CCGM) writes:
|> 
|>    I've got situation where I basically want to contact print onto
|> T-Max sheet film (because it's easier than to use roll film). However,
|> the exposure is a bit too short for my liking. Obviously, what I want
|> to do is pull-process the film, and instead of rating it at 100 EI
|> I'd like to use something like 12 or 6 EI.

I'm not sure that's the best way to get what you're after.  Changing
development (by any of the techniques you mentioned) will primarily
affect the contrast.  That film speed changes when we "push" and "pull"
is actually a side effect.  If you reduce development drastically, you
will eliminate the contrast.  That means that all tones in your subject
will be rended as nearly the same value of gray.  If you want a line
image, that's the wrong direction to take the contrast -- you want
*lots*.

I'm going to assume that you're doing the exposure under the enlarger,
and that even at the minimum lens aperture, you've still got exposure
times that are too short.  I would suggest trying some serious neutral
density to get the times down.  Further, run that enlarger head way up,
as high as it will go.  As the light spread out, it gets dimmer per
unit area, and it's a square function, so it should happen pretty
quickly.

With sufficient neutral density, you should be able to reduce the
exposure time as much as you want.  You won't, however, be able to see
what you're doing.  :)

Now, after all that, if you really want lines, you might investigate
Kodalith.  This is a very high contrast film, essentially either clear
or solid black.  By controlling the exposure, you can set a crossover
point where everything below goes black, and everything above goes
white.  You can also easily make a Kodalith-to-Kodalith exposure, and
get a negative at any stage.  With enough tinkering, and laying a
couple of images over each other, you should be able to get lines out
of it.  People do all kinds of stuff with Kodalith.

- donl mathis at Silicon Graphics Computer Systems, Mountain View, CA
donl@sgi.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: bongers@gto400.asd.sgi.com (Hans L. Bongers)
Subject: Re: Looking for Photography Workshops
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc., Mountain View, CA, USA
Distribution: ba
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 21:31:23 GMT

In article <1992Sep13.031216.10922@indetech.com>, alix@indetech.com (Alexandria North) writes:
|> Does anyone know of any good Bay Area workshops or seminars on 
|> photography? I'm not looking for photo basics; more like insights 
|> into studio photography, portraiture, nature photography, etc.
|> I'd prefer South Bay sources, but perhaps I can't be too picky.
|> 
|> BTW, I've already looked into community colleges (and am taking 
|> one course right now) but the pace is different then you find in 
|> workshops.
|> 
|> Alix

Alix ---

Try the "Center for Photographic Arts" in carmel.  They organize many
workshops in the carmel/monterrey area (big Sur.. etc)

--- hans
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: feldman@hal9k.cxo.dec.com (james feldman)
Subject: Re: On aperture shape
Reply-To: feldman@hal9k.cxo.dec.com (james feldman)
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 22:46:20 GMT

In article <1992Sep11.202444.18180@cello.hpl.hp.com>, jacobson@cello.hpl.hp.com (David Jacobson) writes:
|>Last weekend I borrowed a friends 500mm Reflex-Nikkor and went bird
|>photographing at the local baylands.  I was rather disappointed.  The
|>doughnut shaped aperture really messes things up.  It is not that
|>there were sparkly highlights that came out doughnuts, but rather that
|>out of focus background had a kind of funny look.  My wife said, "that
|>background makes me sea-sick".  It is a little like seeing double, but
|>without an orientation to which way it is doubled.
I believe that lens is a mirror lens or catadioptic (i'm sure I munged the
spelling).  This means what you are seeing is a "feature" of that lens design.

jimf
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: hasker@m.cs.uiuc.edu (Rob Hasker)
Subject: Re: K-Mart (K-MART? Yes, K-Mart...)
Organization: University of Illinois, Dept. of Comp. Sci., Urbana, IL
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 16:12:20 GMT

brucer@oz.plymouth.edu (Bruce Ritchie) writes:

>	So, hence my questions: Does K-mart process their own film or
>send it to a lab? Has anyone here ever used them and how were the results?

I don't think any do.  The K-marts around here send film to Qualex.  You
don't want Qualex to touch your film.  (Note that I'm not saying Kodalux!
there is a difference.) My slides often come back with scratches and prints
have dust specks all over.  But then a K-mart in Ft. Wayne, IN, used to send
to a local lab called McJons who was pretty good.  So ask where the film is
sent; if they can't tell you, run.

Rob
From: sp00@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (SOO-JUN PARK)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: WANTED:NIKON AI LENSES
Date: 15 Sep 92 23:57:49 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

I am looking for Nikkor-AI lenses.
I have 50mm/1.8 and 135mm/2.8.
I need a wide lens like 24mm or 28mm and medium telephoto like 85mm or even
200mm.
If anyone is interested in selling Nikkor-AI lens, please respond through
network at     sp00@LEHIGH.edu

Thanks

Soo
From: mandayrv@ucunix.san.uc.edu (Atilla the Hun)
Subject: 4x5 holders
Followup-To: ramanand@pumpkin.ece.uc.edu
Organization: University of Cincinnati
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 16:13:07 GMT

Hi folks,

I would appreciate any and all info on buying 4x5 film holders and some
more. Answers to questions such as:

1) SHould I buy new or used.

2) Are the holders from FIDELITY ( or any other model) good. If not, could
you recommend something else ( say MIDO )


3) How expensive and worth the money are the polaroid  film holders and what
type of film is recommended for use therein.

4) What is the difference between regular holders and cut film holders.

5) What do i need to process the films at home.  ( I have a thermometer, the
chemicals for E-6,  a changing bag and misc baths, jugs etc.)

6) What kind of films (positive and negative ) would you recommend for say
shooting fall colors in New England.

7) What would be your opinion on buying just one lens for the above
assignment (in 6). Would you recommend the 210 or the 150 or the 90mm.

Thanks in advance

ramanand

-- 
***************************************************************************
ramanand@pumpkin.ece.uc.edu

Dept. of Electrical & Computer Engg.		ramanand v mandayam
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: keivjam@elof.iit.edu (James Keivom)
Subject: NEED INFORMATION ON A CAMERA!!!
Organization: Illinois Institute of Technology, Chicago
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 92 05:30:20 GMT

Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: INFO ON CAMERA NEEDED PLEASE
Followup-To: 
Distribution: world
Organization: Illinois Institute of Technology, Chicago
Keywords: 
Could anyone inform me about the Pentax ME-Super w/ 50 mm F 1.7 lens?
A guy on the net is selling it to me.  I am a beginner, this is my
first SLR camera.  Would you recommend it for an absolute beginner
or can i find a better camea.  would you know whats good about it/
what its weakpoints are(ie no interchangeable lenses).  is it worth
getting. i.e. does it allow room for expansion..


thans

jim
From: jimc@tau-ceti.isc-br.com (Jim Cathey)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: CANON off camera flash cord. Operation with 630. Any info?
Date: 5 Sep 92 22:51:12 GMT
Organization: ISC - Bunker Ramo, Spokane, WA

In article <1992Sep5.184455.25324@cbnewsm.cb.att.com> ka1gt@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (robert.m.atkins) writes:
>Does anyone know WHY the 630 and RT don't work with this cord? If it were
>just a pin-for-pin extension cord I don't see how the camera would know that

From all appearances, it seems that they cranked the speed of the CPUs
in these two cameras too high for the flash to be able to communicate
properly when it's on the extension cord.  I tested mine, and things get
_strange_.  (2nd curtain sync comes on automatically, and in P mode the
camera always uses minimum aperture).  Near as I can tell, TTL mode
works correctly, as does Tv (or was that Av?).  So does manual.  Since
it's weird I can't see how the flash gets the ISO rating of the film
right, unless it's the _camera_ that uses that to quench the flash.
The test slides all looked fine.

-- 
+----------------+
! II      CCCCCC !  Jim Cathey
! II  SSSSCC     !  ISC-Bunker Ramo
! II      CC     !  TAF-C8;  Spokane, WA  99220
! IISSSS  CC     !  UUCP: uunet!isc-br!jimc (jimc@isc-br.isc-br.com)
! II      CCCCCC !  (509) 927-5757
+----------------+
			"PC's --- the junk bonds of the computer industry"
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: raju@cs.UAlberta.CA (Raju Patil)
Subject: Any Way of Multiple Exposure on N5005s???
Organization: University of Alberta, Edmonton, Canada
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 18:53:50 GMT

 Hi,
   Is there any way of achieving mutiple exposure on the N5005s?
   Could the Nikon Service Centers reprogram it or something??
 E-mail is fine
 Thanks
 Raju

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: pratt@utkvx3.utk.edu (Mark Pratt)
Subject: Re: EMERGENCY help needed before 5 pm 9-7-92
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: University of Tennessee Computing Center
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 19:14:00 GMT

In article <1992Sep8.164041.6898@clark.edu>, gsnow@clark.edu (Gary Snow) writes...
>In article <6SEP199220272922@utkvx3.utk.edu> pratt@utkvx3.utk.edu (Mark Pratt) writes:
>>
>>I have been advised by someone to use 10-15 second shutter times, but I dont
>>now what aperature??
>>
>>Any help would be appreciated: I am using a Canon EOS Rebel with tripod, Sigma
>>75-210 lens, fireworks to be shot against black sky.
> 

Thanks for all of the help!  I already got my prints back, and they look
great!...I took them to Wolf, and asked them about their control over the
exposure of the prints...They said they could do whatever I want, so they
forced the machine to print the sky black, and the prints came out really nice.  

For the most part, I used f 5.6- f 11 range with an exposure of 3-6 seconds (a
real exact science)  I had no problem with the bulb setting on the EOS Rebel
(no blurs, etc)

So, thanks for all the suggestions!

Mark Pratt
Pratt@utkvx.utk.edu

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au (Paul Repacholi)
Subject: Re: High speed useful ? (was Re: Nikon N90 technobabble)
Organization: Curtin University of Technology
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 15:48:28 GMT

In article <PD.92Sep10032940@horus.sics.se>, pd@sics.se (Per Danielsson) writes:
...
> 
> There are two ways to increase the top speed of a focal plane shutter.
> 1, You make the traveling slit smaller. 2, You increase the speed of
> the curtains.
> In the second case you obviously also get the possibility of
> increasing the top flash sync speed (X-sync).

I'll be pedantic and add a 3rd. Have the shutter travel over the shorter
dimention of the film. years ago, only Copal Square shutters did this, and
had 1/125 X sync with eeryone else at 1/30 or 1/60. Most of the SLRs now
seem to hae gone over to vertical travel.

~Paul

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jpglori@srv.PacBell.COM (John P. Gloria)
Subject: Re: High speed useful ? (was Re: Nikon N90 technobabble)
Organization: Pacific * Bell
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 02:29:40 GMT

In article <PD.92Sep7164427@horus.sics.se> pd@sics.se (Per Danielsson) writes:
>In article <28773@sophia.inria.fr> luong@naxos.inria.fr (Quang-Tuan Luong) writes:
>
>>I don't understand the utility of high speed shutters. On my 8008, I think
>>I have never shot beyond 1/1000s, and I cannot imagine any real situation 
>>where 1/8000s would be useful. Using high speed means that you use also high
>>sensibility film, and/or wide aperture, and this is known to reduce 
>>significantly image quality.
>
>Having a focal plane shutter with fast moving curtains is useful since
>it allows you to have a high flash sync speed. Of course this means
>that the top speed of the shutter can be increased also, giving the
>camera manufacturer a marketing edge over the competition...
>--
>Per Danielsson				pd@sics.se
>Swedish Institute of Computer Science, PO Box 1263, S-164 28 KISTA, SWEDEN

Having fast moving curtains does not necessarily equate to faster flash
sync speeds. It is true that the newer 35mm SLR cameras can flash sync
up 1/250, but the typcial flash sync speed is between 1/60 to 1/125 on
most cameras.
-- 
        ---------  John Gloria - jpglori@pacbell.com	--------	
 		"You cannot depend on your eyes when your imagination
	       is out of focus."   -     Mark Twain
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: axman@acadia.Kodak.COM (Mike Axman)
Subject: Re: Digital Photography
Organization: Eastman Kodak Co., Rochester, NY
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 92 11:46:41 GMT

In article <72219@apple.Apple.COM>, bc@Apple.COM (bill coderre) writes:
>In article <PD.92Sep9020725@horus.sics.se> pd@sics.se (Per Danielsson) writes:
>|Digital photography (as in digital cameras) is still very expensive.
>|My guess is that it will take many years until it will become
>|affordable by amateur photographers.
>
>You can buy a Canon still video camera with a Mac interface for about
>$900. Yup, that's too expensive for the average Joe, but I have used
>one to take instant photos for desktop publishing, and it works better
>than you might think.
>

The caveat here is the "desktop publishing" slant as opposed to "digital 
photography".  I've used quite a few of these beasts as well, including the 
Toshiba "all digital" version, and they are great for incorporating in 
documents, etc...

Most people in this forum would not be happy with this quality in a 
"digital photography" mode, however; even on the TV screen.  

AgX4evr,
mike


>bill coderre

-- 
Mike Axman  
CD-Imaging Advanced Development
Eastman Kodak Company
axman@acadia.kodak.com



DISCLAIMER:
Kodak gives me this Net access for free, but they aren't responsible for my postings.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: robbins@zonev.enet.dec.com (Jeff Robbins)
Subject: Canon F1n, lenses, flash, etc. for sale
Reply-To: robbins@zonev.enet.dec.com (Jeff Robbins)
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 20:14:03 GMT


I've got the following Canon camera equipment for sale.  Everything is
in top-notch condition, most in the original boxes. All equipment is
located in Colorado Springs.  Call (719) 592-4880 or send e-mail to
robbins@aztech.enet.dec.com or robbins%aztech.enet@decwrl.dec.com for
more information.

- Jeff

    Canon F1n with AE finder					$625
	Canon's top pro non-AF camera.  New style. Current
	B&H price $1000. Built like a tank.  This one is in
	excellent condition with the manual and in the box.

    Eye level finder FN, excellent condition			 $50
	Smaller finder with match needle metering.
	Illuminated f-stop scale, shutter speed, etc.
	This is the standard finder for the F1n.

    Spot meter screen SJ, with case, excellent			 $40
	Best when used in combination with the eye level finder

    Canon 24/2.8 FD, like new, in box				$200
    Canon 35/2.0 FD, like new, in box				$195
    Canon 50/1.4 FD, mint condition				 $70
    Canon 85/1.8 FD, like new, in box				$200
    Canon 135/2.8 FD, like new, in box				$170

    Canon auto bellows, with double cable release, mint		$145

    Canon 299T flash GN 131, with manual, mint			 $80

    Quantum Battery 1, with GC-BC module for 299T, manuals, mint $90

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: sparks@col.hp.com (John Sparks)
Subject: Re: 4x5 T-Max: your experiences
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 16:50:49 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division

In article <1992Sep8.175027.5962@nntpd2.cxo.dec.com> feldman@hal9k.cxo.dec.com (james feldman) writes:
>In article <1860052@hpcndaw.CND.HP.COM>, antonsen@hpcndaw.CND.HP.COM (Tim Antonsen) writes:
>
>If you're looking at long exposures, TMX (100) ends up being faster than TMY
>(400) because it's reciprocity line is much straighter.  

I don't really think this is true.  The point where they would cross (if
they cross) is so far out that it's not really a usable exposure (hours).
At 100 sec (the longest time listed by Kodak), TMY is still 1 1/2 stops
faster than TMX.  TMY has two emulsions, one T-grain and one conventional
grain (they may only be a single emulsion with both types of grains).  I
would guess that the conventional grains whimp out with long exposures,
so the T-grains eventually become the only effective emulsion if the
exposure is long enough.  This will probably asymptotically approach the
TMX curve with really long exposures (hours) so they end up being the
same speed.  Either film is much faster than conventional films with
really long exposures however.

>There is nothing magic about TMAX RS developer and TMAX sheet films.  Kodak
>just assumes that you'll be doing tank processing with sheets and will be using
>a replenishment system.  You can use regular TMAX developer, you'll just have
>to "cook" your own numbers.

The real reason for TMAX RS developer is to prevent dichroich (sp?) fog.
This is a staining of the negative and occurs sometimes (depending on
processing conditions and water supply) with sheet film and normal TMAX
developer.  You may never have a problem with it under your conditions
or you might without warning (do you really want to risk ruining your
negatives?).  Kodak recommends TMAX RS developer for sheet film even if
the developer is used one-shot.

From articles I have read describing the development of TMAX films, they
were designed and refined using D76 developer and TMAX developers were
designed for push processing.  From my testing, D76 produces sharper,
better looking negatives than TMAX developer with a little more visible
grain (not really an issue with 4x5).  On the other hand, D76 changes
over time (the pH is not real stable) and development activity increases
with the age of the stock solution.  Older films did not seem to be
particularly sensitive to this, but TMAX films are.  The recommendations
I have seen do not recommend using D76 that is more than a month old.

John Sparks
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: forman@fraser.sfu.ca (Pamela Catherine Forman)
Subject: Zenit - E
Organization: Simon Fraser University, Burnaby, B.C., Canada
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 1992 07:49:44 GMT

I just got a 35mm cammera that was made in the USSR.  It is a Zenit-E
with a Helio S-44-2 2/58 lens.  It seems to be automatic (or semi) and
manual.  I am not sure how to get it to work properly as it came with
no instruction booklet.  While I am eagerly awaiting the results of my
test roll can anyone tell me anything about this wee beastie.  (Yes,
it has been suggested that it was a waste of $25.  I wouldn't be
suprised, but boy it's fun!)
 
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: ka1gt@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (robert.m.atkins)
Subject: Re: Who make good close-up lenses ?
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 17:23:47 GMT

In article <BuF2FG.6Lr@news.larc.nasa.gov>, txn@sirius.larc.nasa.gov (Troung Nguyen) writes:
> 
>   I am considering to buy some close-up lenses. Nikon makes good
>   2-element lenses for 52mm and 62mm thread diameters, but my 
>   Canon lenses are 58mm in diameter.  So  who else make 2-element 
>   close-up lenses?.  Are Tiffen's, B+W's and Hoya's close up 
>   filters any good?  I believe they are 1 element lenses though.
> 
>  
Get a 58mm->62mm adaptor ring and use the Nikon close up filters. That's
what I do. I did hear somewhere that Canon has a similar close up filter
in a 58mm size, but I've never seen one so the story may be wrong. As far
as I know, all the other brands you mention are inferior, 1 element
designs. I believe the Nikons (5T and 6T anyway) are designed for use on
telephoto lenses (200-300mm) and MAY not give the best results on short fl
lenses. The 5T works very well with the EF100-300L. I got my adapter rings
many years ago from Spiratone, but I assume the major photo stores (e.g. B&H
probably carry them.

===============================================================
Bob Atkins  AT&T Bell Labs  email (direct)  att!clockwise!rma
===============================================================


Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: pd@sics.se (Per Danielsson)
Subject: Flash sync at 1/4000 s. (was Re: High speed useful ? (was Re: Nikon N90 technobabble))
Organization: Swedish Institute of Computer Science
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 01:25:53 GMT

In article <1992Sep8.174435.6998@cs.rit.edu> kar@cs.rit.edu (Kenneth A Reek) writes:

>I am guessing that the new SB-25 has a mode in which its flash
>duration is as long as it takes for the slit in the shutter curtain
>to traverse the frame, thus achieving flash "sync" at 1/4000 sec.

Yes, this is the same way the Olympus F280 flash works with the OM-4T
and the OM-707. Olympus calls it "Super FP sync". (Top speed is 1/2000
here, though)
--
Per Danielsson				pd@sics.se
Swedish Institute of Computer Science, PO Box 1263, S-164 28 KISTA, SWEDEN
From: ka1gt@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (robert.m.atkins)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Cheap "Leica" (Re: another all mechnical camera)
Date: 11 Sep 92 17:34:01 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: AT&T

In article <11SEP92092406@tiamat.hacks.arizona.edu>, paulf@tiamat.hacks.arizona.edu (Paul Frankenstein, Bs.D.) writes:
> In article <1992Sep11.084037.5777@fy.chalmers.se>, f88mattb@fy.chalmers.se (Mattias Bryntesson) writes...
> >In article <10SEP199214453382@venus.tamu.edu> s0l3906@venus.tamu.edu (LIN, SHYH-HORNG) writes:
> >....
> >>For a beginner who want a mechnical camera, it seems to me that
> >>Yachica FX3 super 2000 is a better buy than Pente x.
> >....
> 
> But the Pentax is rather more rugged, and has a better meter (and wider
> ISO range as well). Also, Pentax lenses are easier to find than Yashica ones.
> 

Ah, but lenses are often cheaper in the Yashica/Contax mount. The reason is
that there are not many Y/C mount users out there, so the "scumball" camera
dealers advertise low prices on their lenses with tiny print at the bottom
of the ad saying "Y/C mount only". Then when most people call up with Nikons
etc, they can add another $20 or $30 onto the price. Same principle used to
apply to screw mount lenses, but most manufacturers no longer make them. Of
course to take advantage of the situation you have to deal with the "scumball"
stores, but you can (and I have) get some bargins that way.
===============================================================
Bob Atkins  AT&T Bell Labs  email (direct)  att!clockwise!rma
===============================================================
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: hunter@oakhill.sps.mot.com (Hunter Scales)
Subject: Re: Image Bank's First Photo-CD Image Catalog 09/09/92
Organization: Motorola Inc., Austin, Texas
Distribution: rec
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 23:33:56 GMT

rivieres@parc.xerox.com (Jim des Rivieres) writes:

>From clari.nb.trends:

>DALLAS, TEXAS, U.S.A., 1992 SEP 9 (NB) -- The Image Bank, a
>worldwide supplier of black-and-white and color photo images, has
>announced what the company says will be the first Photo CD image
>catalog.
...

>The catalog will offer image resolution comparable to high
>definition TV, 256 X 384,. That's good enough for display, but not
>enough resolution to print a hard copy at finished reproduction
>quality, thus protecting the image copyright. To get the image you
>want, users can contact an Image Bank office. The catalog will come
>with pre-programmed software.


	I didnt know there was a way to limit the resolution of
	the pictures on PhotoCD.  I thought PhotoCD was the
	4 (5?) image resolutions for each picture and you
	just picked the one appropriate for your output device.

	Is this a "derivative" or is this part of the specification
	for PhotoCD (I assume there *is* a spec. Maybe Mike Axman  
	William M Barnick could reply? 


-- 
Motorola Semiconductor Inc.             Hunter Scales
Austin, Texas                           hunter@prometheus.sps.mot.com
#include <disclaimer.h>