HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: steve@celia.UUCP (Steve Tyree)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
Subject: Re: [M][R] Secondary Coral Spawning (was Re:[M] Threespot Damsel Spa..)
Date: 23 Jul 92 18:12:37 GMT
Reply-To: celia!steve@usc.edu (Steve Tyree)
Distribution: na
Organization: Rhythm & Hues, Inc., Hollywood

In article <1992Jul23.014042.22104@javelin.sim.es.com> krogers@javelin.sim.es.com writes:
>
-> It was the first of two full moon nights.  There was only a very
-> little bit compared to the last spawning, though, perhaps several
-> hundres eggs vs tens of thousands before.  I was gone the next night
-> after the spawn so I don't know if it spewed more out that night.
-> I've been watching it very closely every night since the one I was
-> gone, especially the 3-6 days past full period, but I never saw
-> anything more.  Diel is from ~9am - 10 pm and water temp is 80-81F.
-> Note the tank has only had a moon for 1 month now so nothing's really
-> had time to synch up to it yet.

 The hammer spawned again last night. 2 hours before and 1 hour before twi-
light. Unfortunately, I was playing around with the camera and missed both
short immense geyser spawns. Looked neat in daylight. Tonight I will just
keep the video camera running and change tapes every 2 hours. Estimate over
a thousand eggs. I did tape a small slow release spawn and eggs floating
in the water after the fact.
 Now im trying to see how or if the eggs develope into spat. Jamie Oliver
stated that the eggs will divide as cells form. I was wondering how you can
see this when the egg is a solid color. After researching a journal article
with pictures of eggs dividing, it appears that the entire colored round egg
will sudivide itself. IE- no egg shell or outer layer. This has not occured
or at least been verified on my hammer eggs yet. Trying to spend time on the
scope but its busy.   
 I may have located the source of the green planulae/egg bundles which have
appeared around 3 days after the last few new moons. Last night my Turbinaria
turbinata (Chalice, Cup or Wineglass Coral) had its largest polyp appear to
be setting a egg bundle. This is what a polyp does before it releases the 
formed bundle. They appeared green. It later pulled the bundle back inside
itself. The chalice appears to have about 200 small polyps on its surface
and the largest one was setting. Its possible that this species of coral
only spawns from special large polyps which probably develope just for 
spawning. The other 2 large ones appeared to be acting strange to.

 Steve Tyree - Reef Breeder
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
From: krogers@javelin.sim.es.com (K. Rogers)
Subject: Re: [M][R] Secondary Coral Spawning (was Re:[M] Threespot Damsel Spa..)
Reply-To: krogers@javelin.sim.es.com
Organization: Evans & Sutherland Computer Corp., Salt Lake City, Utah
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 01:40:42 GMT

steve@celia.UUCP (Steve Tyree) writes:

>In article <1992Jul21.202415.5142@javelin.sim.es.com> krogers@javelin.sim.es.com writes:
>>
>>Congrats.  It's still quite rare to get anything to spawn in marine
>>tanks.  I'm jelous - my clown fish are all talk (go through all the
>>prespawning motions) but no action.  By way of consolation, however,
>>my open brain coral spawned again last week.
>
> What was the phase of the moon over your tank and was it the same phase when
>the coral spawned last ? How many days seperated the 2 spawns ?

It was the first of two full moon nights.  There was only a very
little bit compared to the last spawning, though, perhaps several
hundres eggs vs tens of thousands before.  I was gone the next night
after the spawn so I don't know if it spewed more out that night.
I've been watching it very closely every night since the one I was
gone, especially the 3-6 days past full period, but I never saw
anything more.  Diel is from ~9am - 10 pm and water temp is 80-81F.
Note the tank has only had a moon for 1 month now so nothing's really
had time to synch up to it yet.

> ps - I will attend SIGGRAPH in chicago and will bring the tapes with me.
>      Wont have a tape player though.
>
> Steve Tyree - Reef Breeder

And I won't be there.  Too bad.
-- 
Keith Rogers
krogers@javelin.sim.es.com
From: Jack.Honeycutt@f52.n105.z1.therose.pdx.com (Jack Honeycutt)
Sender: postmaster@therose.pdx.com
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: The Aquatic Gardner
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 06:24:00 -0700

Hello George,

16 Jul 92, George Booth writes to All:

 GB> The Aquatic Gardener (TAG) is the newsletter of the Aquatic Gardener's
 GB> Association.  I don't have an address or phone number at work, but maybe
 GB> someone else can provide it.  Neil Frank (Neil.Frank@samba.acs.unc.edu)
 GB> is the editor - maybe he will provide more info.

George, if you get the address could you post it for all of us?  I would like to
get this newsletter as well.

Thanks!

Jack


Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:4279 rec.aquaria:5942
From: oleg@llustig.palo-alto.ca.us (Oleg Kiselev)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: long, short tank ideas
Date: 21 Jul 92 22:16:45 GMT
Article-I.D.: llustig.1992Jul21.221645.3932
Organization: Palo Alto Killifish Loft

In article <1992Jul21.170918.5225@kong.gsfc.nasa.gov> mstephens.520@postman.gsfc.nasa.gov (mark stephens) writes:
>Any ideas?

Conventional tank sizes are a cheaper deal.

>A native stream 

Not at 85F.  It will stress the fish too much.

>I want to know much more about these fish!  

There was a series of articles on native fish in the last year's TFH, FAMA
publishes/markets a book "A Netfull of Natives", there are several native
fish filed guides that describe the habitat and the diet of the fish -- 
take a look through the local larger book stores and a library.

>school of tetra OR ???

A school of tetras will work well.  So will lots of other things.  You have
lots of space,

>I also worry about the wall unit supporting the weight of the tank, which 
>at only 1 foot high and 67.5 gallons comes in at a total of about 540 pounds
>or 60 pounds per square foot. 

You have a problem there.  It may not hold if it's a typical thin plywood
and particle board deal.
-- 
Oleg Kiselev, at home			....use the header to find the path
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:4318 rec.aquaria:6003
From: pete@introl.introl.com (Pete Ikusz)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: brackish tank info needed
Date: 24 Jul 92 17:46:45 GMT
Article-I.D.: introl.1992Jul24.174645.16668
Organization: Introl Corp.

In article <1992Jul23.233823.12325@Veritas.COM> oleg@veritas.com (Oleg Kiselev) writes:
>raible@cbmvax.UUCP (Bob Raible - LSI Design) writes:
>
>Plants that will survive in brackish aquaria:
>>Java moss, Java fern, Elodea densa (Anacharis), Hygrophila polysperma
>>As long as the water is not VERY salty: Echinodorus tenellius (pigmy chain
>>swords), Sagittaria subulata, S. graminea, S. gigantea, Vallisnaria americana,
>>Water sprite, Hornwort.
>
>Many brackish water fish are partially or fully herbivorous and will shred 
>and devour the plants.  Also, just about all of these plants will "melt" in 
>the full-strength salt water.

Right, I have been puting smaller leaves of spinach in my tank. My Monos love
it. If they are real hungry a small leaf can be gone in one night.
I did this to protect my plant (was plants!). :-(

I really have a problem keeping multiple plants in this tank. The sword seems to have
kept the best, I will have to try some of the others that were listed here.

Thanks.
Best regards,
-Pete
-- 
-------------------------------------------------------
Pete Ikusz	Introl Corporation	pete@introl.com
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: mstephens.520@postman.gsfc.nasa.gov (mark stephens)
Subject: Re: Need net wisdom asap - must decide (by 7/17) to return or keep wet/dry
Organization: nasa/gsfc
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 92 16:40:38 GMT

Well ... drat!  I liked the scum part.

         mark

In article <2530174@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM>, booth@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (George Booth) writes:
> 
> In alt.aquaria, mstephens.520@postman.gsfc.nasa.gov (mark stephens) writes:
> 
>     Don't know about the surface scum, but something is keeping my near
>     bio-filterless tank alive.  Eventhough I want to, I'm not touching
> 
> Er, ah, I didn't mean the surface area of the water, I meant the surface
> area of the tank itself - the glass sides and surface of the gravel or
> rocks or whatever.
> 
> Sorry about the confusion.
> 
> --------
> George
> 
> 
From: booth@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (George Booth)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 16:14:58 GMT
Subject: Re: [F] Sorry about "my" article in AFM
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria

After some correspondence with Ed Bauman, editor of _AFM_, it appears
that I wasn't edited, but the text was lost somehow.  Because of a 
lot of net traffic (CIS?) about this, Ed asked me to post this to
*.aquaria.  BTW, part 1 of the article was almost entirely unedited.  

------
George
 
==============================
From Ed Bauman:

I have noticed a number of postings on the net concerning _AFM_ and its
contents, as well as the "hack" job done on Geroge and Karla's plant
articles.  These comments seem to lack insight as to the editorial process,
the purpose of _AFM_ or the reasons for certain editorial decisions.
 
First, it appears that one of the files sent to me by George either never
made it or was inadvertently deleted, accounting for the loss of text that
did not appear in the published articles.  Very little editing was done to
their articles and any suggestions to the contrary are simply wrong.
 
Second, _AFM_ is not _FAMA_, which is why it has more than twice the paid
circulation of _FAMA_.  _AFM_ is for the average hobbyist--beginner and
intermediate.  This is most definitely not the audience that _FAMA_ is
serving.  Those who are experienced hobbyists should not expect _AFM_ to
provide some of the esoteric articles (which have little or no editing) that
appear in _FAMA_.
 
Third, the installments for articles are the only way to provide enough
information on some of the topics covered.  It would be less of a service to
readers to simply leave out a lot of information in order to make the
articles fit in one issue.  Inasmuch as 80% of _AFM_ readers keep their
issues, these article series provide a valuable reference library.  Those
who object to this presentation of material are welcome to write to the
magazine with suggestions (CIS ID 76107,460).
 
Fourth, whoever made the less-than-insightful remark about metric
conversions in the magazine clearly doesn't live in any of the dozens of
countries where _AFM_ is read by hobbyists who use only the metric system.
These conversions are done for their benefit, not for readers in this
country.
 
Fifth, the remark about _AFM_ being overedited could only come from someone
who doesn't have to earn a living by putting out a successful magazine.
There is nothing to be gained by producing a sloppily edited publication
that cannot be read with ease and understanding by the average aquarist.
The accuracy of information in _AFM_ is higher than in any other aquarium
magazine in this country, and when errors are made, they are acknowledged in
the following issues.  Expecting readers to find the errors themselves and
decide what is and isn't accurate is not a service to them and only adds the
confusion already prevalent in the aquarium hobby.
 
I am more than willing to explain and discuss any aspect of the magazine
that anyone in these *.aquaria groups would like to know more about.  Please
try and keep in mind that special-interest magazines are niche-marketed
publications.  _TFH_, _FAMA_ and _AFM_ servce vastly different audiences,
with less than 25% of _AFM_ readers taking either of the other two
magazines.
 
Ed Bauman
Editor
_Aquarium Fish Magazine_
From: szatezal@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Shane M Zatezalo)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: How to feed?
Summary: a scared eel has competition
Keywords: saltwater
Date: 30 Jul 92 14:16:05 GMT
Organization: The Ohio State University

I have a 55 gal. saltwater tank, and I just received an eel. (at most it is
a foot long, and a pencil's width in diameter)

Anyway, it has not ate at all in the past week. I know it can go much
longer than this w/o eating. Its not that it doesn't want to eat, but its
got some tough competition, (a lionfish, buffer, trigger, grouper and two
clowns), and can't even come out and get any food.

What do you people do in situations like this? (the damned thing is too
scared to come out, yet when it does come out, nothing goes after it... well,
except the lion when he catches a glimpse of his tail, but as soon as the
lion realizes how big the eel actually is, he backs off)

Is there any way to feed him easily? He stays underneath the coral all the
time. I'd hate to have to go in there and rip up all the coral and stuff
just to feed him all the time. Besides, he could jump out...

Any suggestions are appreciated.

 shane
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:4377 rec.aquaria:6107
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: enenkel@cs.toronto.edu (Robert Frederick Enenkel)
Subject: Re: Unfiltered Tanks (Was: Re: Need net wisdom asap...)
Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of Toronto
Date: 30 Jul 92 14:15:18 GMT

booth@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (George Booth) writes:
>In alt.aquaria, enenkel@cs.toronto.edu (Robert Frederick Enenkel) writes:
>
>  I found that a 100 gal tank with an airstone cannot digest the ammonia from
>  four 3" long common goldfish.  It had more than two months to get established.
>  The ammonia-nitrogen level was 5-10 ppm.  (I did water changes so it wouldn't
>  go above that).
>
>OK, now we got some data.  Clearly the surface area of the tank glass is
>not enough to support a sufficient number of bacteria to convert ammonia.
>Our 100g acrylic tank is 20x18x60 outside and 19x17x59.5 inside for a 
>surface area of 27.6 sq ft.  So 2.3 sq ft per inch of fish is insufficient.

This tank is 2' x 2' x 4'.  I also forgot to mention that it was a bare tank
with no substrate or plants.  I think we might have to be a little more fussy
than "inches of fish" though.  Perhaps a more "biologically efficient" fish
than the goldfish may produce less waste?

>Do you still have the tank?  Can you add a small filter, like an aquaclear
>200 or a small Tetra sponge filter?  

The goldfish have now grown to 6-8 inches each, and I am using two of the 
largest aquaclears (2000) on it.  But when I just gave up keeping it 
unfiltered, I put a Tetra Brilliant Super Pro sponge filter on it and as 
soon as that kicked in, the ammonia problem went away.

Robert Enenkel
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: bhaskar@brtph598.bnr.ca (Shaji Bhaskar)
Subject: Green Chromides (Was Re: brackish tank info needed)
Organization: Bell Northern Research Inc.
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 1992 12:01:06 GMT

In article <1992Jul25.090817.18775@Veritas.COM> oleg@veritas.com (Oleg Kiselev) writes:
>bhaskar@brtph598.bnr.ca (Shaji Bhaskar) writes:
>>I also see (rarely) E. suratensis (sp?) sold as "green chromides".
>
>I have never seen E. suratensis in the shops so I chose not to mention them.

Come to think of it, I might not have seen them either.  I was looking
up my references just now, and I could have been confused by Axelrod
referring to E. Suratensis as green chromides.

Matt: The wild chromides are very close to the green ones - a bit more
rounded, perhaps.  I never saw a truly all-yellow one, though.  Many
species I saw in the wild are virtually identical to the ones in the
pet trade - the giant danios, for instance.

>One of the references I have on them says they get even larger, to 16".
>Looks like a nice fish and if, as you say, they taste good, could they be
>an aquaculture alternative to the ugly mutant Tilapia raised all over this
>country?

E. Suratensis is farmed in India.  However, I suspect (no hard stats here)
that they grow too slowly to be an alternative to the Tilapia.  The premium
price these fish bring in makes farming viable in India.  The ugly mutant
Tilapia have found their way to India, as well.

-Shaji.

-- 
Shaji Bhaskar                                   Email: bhaskar@bnr.ca
BNR, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709           Phone: (919) 991 7125
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:4270 rec.aquaria:5933
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: enenkel@cs.toronto.edu (Robert Frederick Enenkel)
Subject: Re: [F] Solution Ground seems to work
Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of Toronto
Date: 21 Jul 92 16:39:58 GMT

booth@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (George Booth) writes:

>Having recently experienced an increase in our discretionary spending
>money, we began browsing through a recent FAMA to see what we could
>buy.  The ad for the Sandpoint "Solution Ground" caught our eye.  

>We bought two solution grounds from Pet Warehouse for about $35 each.
>These look like pH electrodes and have a titanium rod for contact with
>the water.  You could easily make one out of stainless steel for under
>a buck.  

>...we are planning on buying
>two more for our other tanks based on the observed changes.

I have a better idea, George!  Make yourself two out of stainless steel, 
and send the $68 difference to me!  :-) :-)

Robert Enenkel
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: bednarek@bonfire (Dennis Bednarek Mfg 4-6971)
Subject: Re: Need net wisdom asap - must decide (by 7/17) to return or keep wet/dry
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 92 05:26:57 GMT

mstephens.520@postman.gsfc.nasa.gov (mark stephens) writes:
: Well ... drat!  I liked the scum part.
: 
:          mark
: 
: In article <2530174@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM>, booth@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (George Booth) writes:
: > 
: > In alt.aquaria, mstephens.520@postman.gsfc.nasa.gov (mark stephens) writes:
: > 
: >     Don't know about the surface scum, but something is keeping my near
: >     bio-filterless tank alive.  Eventhough I want to, I'm not touching
: > 
: > Er, ah, I didn't mean the surface area of the water, I meant the surface
: > area of the tank itself - the glass sides and surface of the gravel or
: > rocks or whatever.
: > 
: > Sorry about the confusion.
: > 
: > --------
: > George
: > 
: > 
  Well I have run tanks with nothing but live plants, air stones, and fish 
  for up to 3 years with no odors or illness in the fish.  However I did 
  find that with platies, and swords this idea does not work. They are just
  plane to messey.  Also watch that you don't overload the fish population
  I use the guide set up in a book by Innes written before I was probably
  even born.

--
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:4283 rec.aquaria:5944
From: ahughes@arch386.hyperdesk.com (Arch Hughes)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Vacation Advice
Keywords: thanks
Date: 21 Jul 92 20:35:24 GMT
Reply-To: arch@hyperdesk.com
Followup-To: alt.aquaria
Organization: HyperDesk Corporation

I've returned from my extended vacation.  I'm happy to report that
none of my little marine pets perished while I was away.  I thank you
for your advice.

I guess I should have posted a similar request for advice to rec.dogs
and alt.dogs, though.  My dog died.  But...that's not a story for this
group.

-- 
o o|  Arch Hughes, HyperDesk Corp.        Phone   508-366-5050 x103
o o|  Suite 300, 2000 West Park Dr.       Fax     508-898-3841
---+  Westboro, MA   01581                E-Mail  arch@hyperdesk.com
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:4383 rec.aquaria:6111
Date: Thursday, 30 Jul 1992 16:43:27 EDT
From: <KRUCK@wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject:    DIY siphon overflow (cheat)

After a long year away from the 70 gallon I set up for my parents
in Florida, I just purchased a used 55 gal to set up in WV. I've
been doing a lot of thinking about ways to set up my system, and
would like to get feedback from anybody who has 2 cents to add...

I decided to post about the siphon problem first, as several
people have posted their dissatisfaction with their current
boxes. I called local glass companies, and as long as the bottom
of your tank isn't made out of tempered glass, they can drill
a hole in a corner (mine is sized to fit a 1-inch pvc male ended
pipe) for anywhere from 2 to 10 dollars. Another 5-10 gets you a
shhet of glass with edges finished at a 45 degree angle, so that
you can silicone it next to the same corner to block off your
overflow chamber. All overflow goes into the chamber, and out the
pvc into the wet/dry beneath (via tubing). This is the same type
of setup I've seen in many display tanks, and for a DIY'er, it's
also cheaper and a heck of a lot easier than building an overflow.
_Way_ cheaper than buying one.
                              Kruck


Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: akerson@deimos.srg.af.mil (Pete Akerson - akerson%srg@uunet.uucp)
Subject: Re: Feeding Oscars
Organization: ARINC Research, Corp.
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 92 17:35:32 GMT



n article <BrrLHJ.DxH@watserv1.waterloo.edu> ijr@canard.waterloo.edu (Ilana Jayne Rosenshein) writes:
>
>Hi,
>
>I am thinking about getting an oscar, but I have a few questions first.
>The main question is how much do they eat? 

figure, for each inch of oscar, half as much as an inch of house cat.
Beefheart, liver, dry pellet food, turkey livers, as much as possible.
change lots of water for these guys ...
--
Reply-to: akerson%srg@uunet.uu.net
Or sometimes: akerson@srg.UUCP  or akerson@srg.uunet.uu.net
Disclaimer: X was invented by the Japaneese in order to sell more memory chips.
- Pete 		akerson@srg.srg.af.mil is the wrong address.
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: wkb@cbnews.cb.att.com (wm.keith.brummett)
Subject: Re: [F] CO2 setup - pennies per day!
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 17:58:25 GMT


    In article <1992Jul28.150600.12272@u.washington.edu>,
    monetc@milton.u.washington.edu writes:
    > ... 
    > and now the reason forthis post: I have been playing around with CO2 
    > (injection isnt the right word for this.. how about) 'augmentation'.
    > I am using baking yeast and corn syrup in a two liter soda bottle. ...


    Jeez, now I know what to do with my homebrew's primary carboy blow-off
    tube.  And to think I've been sticking it in a bucket of bleach water!
    :-)  Seriously, if you want to pursue this, dry corn sugar would
    probably be cheaper than corn syrup.  Available at homebrew shops.

    -- Keith

-- 
    | (614) 860-3187         Copyright (C) 1992, by       AT&T, Room 3B202 |
    | att!cblph!wkb  or,     W.K. Brummett and AT&T      6200 E. Broad St. |
    | wkb@cblph.att.com       All rights reserved.      Columbus, OH 43213 |
    `----------------------------------------------------------------------'
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:4329 rec.aquaria:6014
From: oleg@Veritas.COM (Oleg Kiselev)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: brackish tank info needed
Date: 25 Jul 92 09:08:17 GMT
Reply-To: oleg@veritas.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Organization: Palo Alto Killifish Loft
X-Disclaimer: I speak for myself only unless explicitly indicated otherwise

bhaskar@brtph598.bnr.ca (Shaji Bhaskar) writes:
>I also see (rarely) E. suratensis (sp?) sold as "green chromides".

I have never seen E. suratensis in the shops so I chose not to mention them.

>They grow to be about a foot.

One of the references I have on them says they get even larger, to 16".
Looks like a nice fish and if, as you say, they taste good, could they be
an aquaculture alternative to the ugly mutant Tilapia raised all over this
country?
-- 
"... i heard the droning / in the shrine
	     of the sea-monkey / palace of the brine ..." -- Pixies.
Oleg Kiselev                                             oleg@veritas.com
VERITAS Software                           ...!{apple|uunet}!veritas!oleg
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:4284 rec.aquaria:5945