HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: walter@optimla.aimla.com (Walter Hunt)
Subject: Skimmer-only tanks (Was: Re: Are W/D trickle filters worth it?)
Organization: OptImage Interactive Services Co., L.P.
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1992 21:31:05 GMT


In article <tom.724104252@dynamo.ecn.purdue.edu>, tom@dynamo.ecn.purdue.edu (Tom McCain) writes:
|> 01mbmccabe@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu writes:
|> 
|> : anyway?  Surely theres a better way...no?
|> 
|> Well, maybe.  But it's really up to you.  You could make one, that
|> would save you money.  Or you could go with more of a "natural method"
|> and forgo the wet/dry.  This basically consist of a sump (10/20 gallon
|> tank), a *good* efficient protein skimmer and lots of high quality live
|> rock.  There is a good introductory article in the January 93 issue of
|> FAMA describing this method.  It may not be much cheaper to get
|> started, but in the long run it sure does amount to a lot less
|> maintenance.  I use this method myself although I do not have a sump.
|> I just use a skimmer that is rated for a 90 gallon tank.  My micro
|> reef is in a 16 gallon tank ....
|> 
|> --tom
|> --
|> 	    Tom McCain            tom@dynamo.ecn.purdue.edu
|> 
|> 
|>  Nudists are people who wear one-button suits.


	Does this really work for other people? I tried to set up a 60G
mini-reef using only a prefilter and skimmer for filtration, and it just didn't
seem to be getting anywhere. The best I could say is that everything looked
"okay". I added a canister with some carbon and Chemi-Pure and now everyone
looks MUCH happier. Kind of threw a wrench into the skimmer-only theory for 
me . . .



-- 
Walter Hunt					walter@optimla.optimage.com
OptImage Interactive Services Company, L.P.	walter@optimla.aimla.com
11040 Santa Monica Blvd., Suite #300		netcom!optimla!walter
Los Angeles, Ca. 90025				(310) 445-5718
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:9575 sci.aquaria:1789
From: mdkj@vax5.cit.cornell.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
Subject: Ballast question
Date: 17 Dec 92 17:56:13 EST
Distribution: rec,sci
Organization: Cornell University

Quick question about the ballast controversy: when I buy a ready-made hood in
the store (for 2x20W or 2x40W, say), what kind of ballast am I getting?  Is it
electronic or magnetic? And, more importantly, under the assumption that I
want a ballast that does not significantly reduce the light output or lifetime
of my bulbs, should I consider "operating" my hood to put in a better ballast?
And (of course), which brand/model should I get?
Thanks,
 
John Opsomer
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: krogers@javelin.sim.es.com (K. Rogers)
Subject: Re: WonderLite Grow-light
Reply-To: krogers@javelin.sim.es.com
Organization: Evans & Sutherland Computer Corp., Salt Lake City, Utah
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 17:38:23 GMT

booth@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (George Booth) writes:

>From: gb@dixie.cs.unc.edu (Gary Bishop)

I'm confused.  George never contributed anything to this followup as
near as I can tell and they both have the initials of GB.  Are you
just forwarding this from somewhere, George, or did you forget to add
your comments, or what?

>After two weeks of use, I am happy to report that the WonderLite works
>great for freshwater plants!  My rotalla macrandra, which was formerly
>ragged and dying, is making a strong comeback; lots of new leaves are
>sprouting out and turning red.  The other plants are looking good too.
>The aquarium looks so much better under the brighter light.  In
>comparison, the previous lighting from two 15 watt fluorescents
>(triton and powerglow) seems very dim.
>
>The WonderLite is a 160 watt, self-ballasted mercury vapor R40 flood
>that works in an ordinary incandescent fixture.  The company, Public
>Service Lamp, has added some secret ingredient to the mercury vapor
>portion to produce wide spectrum output that has nice broad peaks in
>the red and blue while maintaining plenty of output in the green.  The
>light appears white.  They have been selling this light for
>terrestrial plants for years.  I heard about it from Peter Rosenthal
>who is also having success with it for aquarium use.

How many lumens does it put out?  My (3 years ago now) research on
mercury vapor bulbs (not this fance kind, though) was that they were
high in heat, low in light such that I'd expect this 160W bulb to put
out only some 8-9000 lumens compared to 12-14000 for the MH eqivalent.

>My lighting situation is particularly difficult because my 36 gallon
>hex aquarium is between 2 chairs about 4 feet from any wall.

Which is where this kind of lightbulb is really useful.  Thanks for
the report, whoever posted it.
-- 
Keith Rogers
krogers@javelin.sim.es.com
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:9611 alt.aquaria:6282
From: ynecelc@sx.mont.nec.com (Ellison Chan)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: read/new
Date: 18 Dec 92 19:36:38 GMT
Organization: HNSX Supercomputers

In article <1992Dec18.044855.13185@bsu-ucs> 01mbmccabe@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu writes:
>Recently, I saw that someone had posted a price for a "good" electronic balast
>in the neighborhood of $150.   !!$150??   This doesn't include fixtures,
>reflectors, hood, bulbs, nothin'!  Just the dang balast!
>
>Does this mean that to get a decent light set-up w/one bulb and a no-cost
>home-made-outa-scrap-stuff hood would run in the neighborhood of $200+?????
>
>That's insane!?!?!  Can a ballast REALLY be WORTH (emphasis here) $150?
>
>				-Matt

Probably not, I was able to buy a "quick start" ballast which can power
two flourencent tubes for about $45 CND($35 US).
-- 
Ellison Chan, Comp. Sys. Analyst               2350 Place TransCanadienne
HNSX Supercomputers Inc., NEC Corp.        Dorval, Quebec, Canada H9P 2X5
E-mail: ellison@SX.Mont.NEC.COM          (514)684-7705, FAX (514)684-8619
From: scol@scottsdale.az.stratus.com (Scott Colbath)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: [F] A couple of things......
Date: 14 Dec 1992 20:05:10 GMT
Organization: Stratus Computer Inc, Marlboro MA
NNTP-Posting-Host: scottsdale.az.stratus.com

I finally put a UGF in my 29 gallon tank yesterday and suffered no casualties.  
The biggest problem was netting the faster fish such as my Mono and the Zebra  
Danios. Guppies and Mollies could have cared less about the net. I am already  
happy with the installation just knowing that my fish now have additional  
filtration.

As an aside, I heard that Monos can be converted gradually from freshwater to  
salt without a problem. Is this true? Are there any other fish which can do  
this? 

--
**********************************************************
Scott Colbath
Stratus Computer
Phoenix, Az.  (602)852-3106
Internet:scott_colbath@az.stratus.com
**********************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier)
Subject: Re: [F] How to get rid of snails?
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 92 16:52:27 GMT

james.j.dutton (jjd1@cbnewsg.cb.att.com) wrote:
: Not chlorox. If you imply the city is forcefeeding chlorox into home tap
: water your batty.

NaClO - it's pretty simple stuff, and your dechlor will deal with it.

: >If you have a fish that enjoys eating pond snails (such as
: >clown loaches), then there will be so few pond snails
: >as to be unnoticeable.  However, yes, they are ugly and
: >fast-breeding.
: >  
:  
: So few as to remain unnoticable? Hah.

Hah yourself.  I've seen it.  In fact, Heros aureum will actually
irradicate snails.  Yes, that is right, remove each and every one
of them, so that when the fish are removed, the snails do not
return.  Clown loaches are less effective, but will definitely
keep pond snails from being visible.  Mind you, with the loaches,
it is definitely a YMMV type thing - I've also encountered loaches
that are not snail happy (or, rather, had to get pretty hungry
before they became snail happy).
  
: >How can you have an opinion on the use of chlorox when you've
: >never tried it or seen it tried?  That's just foolish, esp.
: >when experienced aquarists are telling you it works.  Heck, I
:  
: Your telling me your an experienced aquarists and your actually being one 
: may be two different things. I say dumping bleach in an aquarium does not
: sound like a good idea.

Cute answer.

: Oh then it must be good for the fish.

The point of chlorox is that it will kill everything.  If you
do not remove it from the tank, of course it will be bad for
the fish.  Good grief.
  
: >: If somebody else can give a second opinion on this chlorox thing I'll
: >: apologize for inferring its ludicrous. Not that I'll ever use the method.
: >: Happy Holidays and all that rot.
: >
: >Well?
:  
: I apologize for saying it's ludicrous and will now consider the realm of
: a possibilty it won't burn the hell out of your fishes gills. Just remember
: I didn't tell you do it.

Chlorox would definitely burn the hell out of your fish's gills, if
it were still present in the water when you put the fish back in.
The point of using chlorox is that it is nothing more than a chlorine
bleach - chemically simply, very reactive, very easy to remove from
your water.  I hope when I've been in the hobby for 20 yrs, I'll be
a little more open to new ideas than you seem to be.

--
"They thought to use and shame me but I win out by nature, because a true
freak cannot be made.  A true freak must be born." - K. Dunn, _Geek Love_

Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier
From: bjkramer@remus.rutgers.edu (Brian Kramer)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Reverse Flow Question
Date: 16 Dec 92 02:17:24 GMT
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

I am planning on converting to a reverse flow next weekend.  The tank is fairly
new and in addition to an UGF (55 gallon Tank) it has an Eheim and a Whisper 4.
I plan on just vacuming the gravel very well and then adding the RUGF kit to
my Penguin 1140's.  Any other sugestions.  I have about 3 inched of blue
gravel.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: harold@wam.umd.edu (James B. Harold)
Subject: Re: [F] Snail Shell Erosion?
Organization: University of Maryland, College Park
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 15:59:34 GMT

In article <GB.92Dec7094624@dixie.cs.unc.edu> gb@dixie.cs.unc.edu (Gary Bishop) writes:
>
>I'm wondering if the water attacked his shell because of the very low
>GH?  I've now added some calcium carbonate and the GH is 3.  Should I
>take it even higher?

I've noticed for some time a dramatic difference in the Malaysian
snails in my African cichlid tank (crushed coral substrate, salt
mix additives, etc.) and those in my planted tank.  Even with
a fairly high GH (8, I think, last time I looked) and KH (6),
the snails in the plant tank are much lighter in color, and the
largest have eroding shells.  Recently I started adding small
amounts of calcium additive (designed for a reef tank) as 
an experiment.  We'll see, but it will take awhile (i.e., a
snail generation) to know if it matters.  I suppose a calcium
test would be the better approach, but I don't have one....
Meanwhile, my green algae seems to be on the rise.  Hmmm.


-- 

James Harold                 "There is always an easy solution to
harold@wam.umd.edu            every human problem -- neat, plausible,
                              and wrong."    --  H. L. Mencken 
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:9455 alt.aquaria:6180
From: mdkj@vax5.cit.cornell.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: [F] How to get rid of snails?
Date: 14 Dec 92 23:33:26 EST
Distribution: usa,world,rec
Organization: Cornell University

In article <Bz80MB.L48@hfglobe.intel.com>,
bklaas@hfglobe.intel.com (Brian Klaas) writes: 
> What is the best way to rid a tank of snails?  After a recent fish purchase,
> we have about 10+ small snails in a 20gal tank.  
> 
> Thanks in advance for any help...  Reply to bklaas@sedona.intel.com or
> post to this newsgroup.
> 
> -- 
>  Brian Klaas                 bklaas@sedona.intel.com
>  Intel, Corp.                bklaas@hfglobe.intel.com
>  5000 W. Chandler Blvd.
>  Chandler, AZ  85226

Although they might not be the sightliest inhabitants in your tank, they are
definitely not the most harmful either... However, it is almost impossible to
get rid of snails once they are established.  Do NOT use chemical snail
eradicators, as they are sure to hurt your fish/plants/nitrifying bacteria in
your tank!
My advice would be to get used to them, and either manually take
out a bunch when you clean the tank, or buy a loach, who will eat snails (ask
your petshop which specific type of loach to get; if they don't know, I can
look it up since I have one but I can't remember its exact name).  However,
either one of these solutions might not even be necessary.  In one of my tanks,
I have had snails for almost a year and they have not developed into a pest,
although I don't think anyone is dining on them (neons and corydoras
catfish??).

John Opsomer
From: kehlet@baudelaire.Eng.Sun.COM (Dave Kehlet)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Goldfish
Date: 16 Dec 1992 17:26:23 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Distribution: world
Reply-To: kehlet@baudelaire.Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: baudelaire

I have a room temperature tank with goldfish, and I was also wondering
what other fish might work.  Yes, I have plenty of aeration and a
Fluval canister filter but I didn't want to hook up a heater.  I'd
really like some kind of algae eating fish.  What commonly available 
non-exorbitantly priced fish besides goldfish would live in a tank 
without temperature control?

Dave

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
From: ritter@HQ.Ileaf.COM (Janice Ritter x5444)
Subject: Need help with a betta
Reply-To: ritter@HQ.Ileaf.COM (Janice Ritter x5444)
Organization: Interleaf, Inc.
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 92 20:30:21 GMT

Hello - need some advice from some betta people.
I have a friend with a betta she's had for 8 months (so he's
around 1 year old). He's been the picture of health for 8 months.
He lives in a bowl, but she changes his water often. It's just
a bare bowl. He lives at work, so the temp doesn't fluctuate here.

He's now been floating on his side for 2 weeks. He still eats 
great, his color is fine, he isn't thin at all, he isn't bloated.
He is breathing at a normal rate. His temp here is about 72-74.
He just can't swim down much. 

I figured swim bladder trouble, but he isn't upsidedown or
anything, and he's eating. She's changed the water again,
using filtered water, of about the same temp as he is used to.

What could be wrong? 
Janice Ritter
ritter@ileaf.com
-- 

Janice Ritter
ritter@ileaf.com
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: jhansen@convex.com (James Hansen)
Subject: [F] Oxygenators
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 20:01:32 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Engineering, CONVEX Computer Corp., Richardson, Tx., USA
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by a user at CONVEX Computer
              Corp. The opinions expressed are those of the user and
              not necessarily those of CONVEX.

I just recently received a catalog from That Fish Place.
In there was something called an oxygenator which used
hydrogen peroxide and a catalyst to release oxygen
into the water.  Their claim was that this device was
good for biological filtration, plants, prevention
of algae buildup, and generally good for your fish.
Has anyone had any experience with such a device?


--
James B. Hansen                                  {sun,uunet}!convex!jhansen
CONVEX Computer Corporation                              jhansen@convex.com
3000 Waterview Parkway, P. O. Box 833851
Richardson, TX 75083-3851                              Phone: (214)497-4802
From: assana@polkadot.Eng.Sun.COM (assana)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [M] Marine tank temptation.
Followup-To: assana@polkadot.eng.sun.com
Date: 16 Dec 1992 18:35:31 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc., Mountain View, CA
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: polkadot

In article <1glt89INNhgd@transfer.stratus.com> scol@scottsdale.az.stratus.com (Scott Colbath) writes:
>
>OK, every time I go into my local fish store, I find myself spending more time  
>looking at marine fish than freshwater fish. I want to start a marine tank but  
>don't have a clue on how to go about it. Things I need to know are..

Scott:

I think this is a common problem with all fresh-water-tank-keepers!!

Mine problem started when I visited someone who has a 800G salt water! Yes, 
eight hundred galllllllons! The tank is built between the living room and
the family room, with 2 glass sides. It is about 6' tall (5' on a 1' stand),
and about 4'-5' wide. It's been set up for 8 years now...filled with live rocks
and several different schools. Unfortunately I dont' know marine fish names...
but the largest school which has about 50 fish it (started with 10-12 fish!), 
is a school of some fish like an angle fish with black and with strips and a 
bent fin over their heads...

I'm telling you, this tank is MESMERIZING!!!!

Just thought I'd share this with you guys...
--
         ^-^
        /o o\
       ===^===   assana@polkadot.eng.sun.com
          -   
Organization: Senior, Art, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 00:39:21 -0500 
From: Miyoko Erika Baensch <mb5a+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: big fat goofy NEWT
	<1992Dec8.205950.12816@bsu-ucs>

i have two newts and one looks as though any day now it is going to
explode ... the pet store lady says its full of eggs.  So what do I do?
anybody have any experience with ovulating newts!?!? any info would be
greatly appreciated thanks...miyoko
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
From: sdebol@tsp.med.umn.edu (Steven Debol (Nelson))
Subject: Re: (F) (M) Nitrifying Bacteria
Organization: University of Minnesota
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1992 05:37:41 GMT

In article <1992Dec18.164511.6309@bagend.uucp> jan@bagend.uucp (Jan Isley) writes:
>patbob@sequent.com (Patrick White) writes:
>>I though SW and FW tanks had different kinds of bacteria that provided
>>the biofilter.  Anyone know if this is so and whether they are gram
>>positive or negative?
>
>I think the SW and FW bacteria are the same.  My reference for that
>claim is not handy at the moment, but there are a few bilogists out
>there.  Steven?  Are nitrosomonas and nitrobacter (+) or (-)?  Are
>they both the same, (+) or (-), that is?
>
Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter are both gram(-) rods.  As far as 
individual species being unique to fresh or salt water, I don't
know off hand.  I would imagine for the most part the make-up 
is the same, with perhaps some species unique to each but a much
larger percentage overlapping into both.  This is just my opinion--
I haven't looked it up to confirm...

Some bacteria can tolerate pretty nasty salt conditions--I think 
the salinity of sea water is relatively low as far as bacteria 
are concerned and probably doesn't bother a lot of species.  Again,
just my opinion (although I am in the Dept. of Micro., my focus
is actually immunology!).  If I find out more I'll post it.


------------------------------------------------------------------
Steve Debol                       "The fear is all in your head,
Dept. of Microbiology              soldier, but don't get the idea
University of Minnesota            it's psychological." 
sdebol@lenti.med.umn.edu                        --Frank Burns
------------------------------------------------------------------

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier)
Subject: Re: [F] How to get rid of snails?
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 92 18:31:40 GMT

Richard Clark (rclark@alcor.concordia.ca) wrote:
: 
: I used the product Had-a-Snail to kill snails in my freshwater tank,
: it was very effective.  At the time I had only cardinal tetras in the
: tank, and I noticed no adverse reactions in plants or fish.  I usually
: try to minimize chemical use, but I figured it was easier than tearing
: down the tank.  I removed manually as many large snails as I could
: find, then used the product (a large number of decaying snails could
: be bad news for ammonia levels)
: 

Just to add a counter-point, I have used Had-a-Snail with less-than-
spectacular results.  While it didn't kill all of the snails, it
did kill my duckweed and algae, which I was pretty happy about at
the time (duckweed sure can be pesty).

--
"They thought to use and shame me but I win out by nature, because a true
freak cannot be made.  A true freak must be born." - K. Dunn, _Geek Love_

Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier
From: booth@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (George Booth)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 19:11:38 GMT
Subject: Re: WonderLite Grow-light
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria

In rec.aquaria, krogers@javelin.sim.es.com (K. Rogers) writes:

    I'm confused.  George never contributed anything to this followup as
    near as I can tell and they both have the initials of GB.  Are you
    just forwarding this from somewhere, George, or did you forget to add
    your comments, or what?

Ken Koellner at Stratus Computer asked:

  A while back someone posted something on the WonderLite grow-light.
  ...
  Anyone have the info on this light lying around?

I had the info lying around, and it seemed of general interest, so I 
reposted it, indicating it was "From: gb@dixie.cs.unc.edu (Gary Bishop)".
Sorry if I violated some net.protocol.  I didn't know you had to contribute
something to a notestring to re-post it.  I also apologize for having the 
same initials as Gary.  Geez, am I embarrassed.  

:-) ?

---------------
G. Loring Booth
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:9491 alt.aquaria:6205
From: jdhl@troi.cc.rochester.edu (papa_sm00sh)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: [F] How to get rid of snails?
Keywords: snails fresh help
Date: 15 Dec 92 20:53:13 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Rochester - Rochester, New York



but wouldn't the small snails grow up to be big snails? (and thus lay
more eggs...)  for how long would this leaf-process need to be carried
out?  not all snails in a large aquarium (and to a real small snail, a
10 gallon aquarium would be large... try putting them into a
30gallon!) will find the leaf... and by the time they do... they may
have laid more eggs...


so perhaps a combo... use the leaf-process to remove most of the
hearty, good sized snails... and get a khuli-loach which should be
sifting through the gravel for the babies...

jason
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: mark@kirk.retix.com (Mark Hoy)
Subject: Re: (m)hair algae removal
In-reply-to: "larry wheatley"'s message of 17 Dec 92 13:15:06 EST
Organization: Retix, Santa Monica
Distribution: rec
Date: 17 Dec 92 12:58:01

>I was thinking I should get some macro algae to grow and that
>would choke out the light for the hair algae?
>My yellow tang can only eat so much.

Macro algae will help keep the hair algae down but it doesn't appear
to eliminate it. However it's a LOT easier to remove extra macro algae.

--
 -- Recently, someone's .sig said: "If there's one thing software
types are sure of, it's that smoke is a hardware problem." - Unknown
Mark Hoy    Retix (800) 255-2333 or (310) 828-3400     mark-hoy@retix.com
From: tucker@sequent.com (Chris Tucker)
Subject: Anemone Introductions
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems, Inc.
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 92 16:09:20 GMT



I have questions concerning the introduction of anemones
to a newly started aquarium.  I have a 40 gallon tank that
has been set up and conditioning for about 4 months now,
3 months of which I have had it populated with damsels.

I "thought" that I was ready to intoduce anemone/clown
combinations to the tank, but when I recently introduced a seabe
anomone and a (?) clown, the anemone is not doing too well.

If anyone out there would be interested in helping me out right
away on this matter, I would appreciate it!  Direct E-mail
would be the most efficient for me, if possible.

E-mail directly to tucker@sequent.com

thanks for any info shared here, or to me directly.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria