HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: beck@sequent.com ("W. Scott Beck")
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: 1979 VW Rabbit diesel Problem
Date: 7 Jan 93 17:55:40 GMT
Article-I.D.: sequent.1993Jan7.175540.19595
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems, Inc.

Hi There
I own a 1979 Rabbit Diesel C and have a problem. The weather is about
4 degrees with the wind chill and the car would not start. It has
a new fuel filter, new belt, alt/gen is about a year old, battery
was recharged three weeks ago. the would crank but not turn over,
tried jump starting it, did the same thing. Any ideas what it could
be??
I'm ready to get my gun out and shoot it, it is a problem car since
I bought it two monts ago (third owner) 181k miles, 

Thanks for any help
Scott
PS anyone want to buy a Rabbit Diesel?
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: marcouil@ireq.hydro.qc.ca (Luc Marcouiller)
Subject: Re: [W] What's up with that...
Reply-To: marcouil@ireq.hydro.qc.ca
Organization: Hydro-Quebec
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 15:25:09 GMT

In article <1993Jan06.102028.13927@wes.on.ca>, tomh@wes.on.ca (Tom Haapanen) writes:
|> > "<2884203EC400@sscl.uwo.ca>" (some guy without a name) wrote:
|> > -  Why is it that the radio does not go off with the key?  [ . . . ]
|> 
|> Personally I *like* the radio-ignition independence.  That's the way most
|> cars work in Europe, but North American users are used to the radio being
|> switched off when you turn off the ignition...
|> 
Me too!! Very enjoyable when you are working on the car^H^H^Hthing.  I even
went to trouble of putting it back as it should be (got the juice from the
hazard circuit) in my current VW: 82 rabbit (build in USA;this maybe the reason
for this degradation) with 86 GTI engine.

ObVW: driving in the snow (with real winter tires) is the funniest thing
      about winter (more so with a VW !).

Happy new year to you all.
Take care.
Luc
-- 
   Luc Marcouiller,                  Institut de Recherche d'Hydro-Quebec,
   Chercheur                         marcouil@ireq.hydro.qc.ca
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: m17108@mwunix (Jason Douglas)
Subject: Re: OEM vs 3rd party mufflers -- summary/results
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean VA
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 17:02:20 GMT

     Thanks to those who responded.  The consensus for avoiding
Midas was quite strong, with one writer commenting that he was glad
when the Midas muffler on his (purchased used) car fell off!  OEM or OEM
quality (e.g., Liestritz) was recommended by most, with one happy
Walker user.

     For better or worse, I went with Walker ($100 vs $463 at dealer
and $200 for unspecified OEM-like unit at Recycled).  I got it bolted
tight this morning, and (subjectively at least) it seems to run the same
as with the old factory unit.  It is a little louder, especially at full
throttle, but it is not a more "mellow" sound.  It sounds like there is less
baffling.  I was also annoyed  that the Walker has a slightly smaller diameter
(about 1/4") so I needed to shim the cradle type muffler holder used on the
Vanagon. Now we'll just have to see how many years it lasts.

Happy new year!

Jason
From: keys@starchild.ncsl.nist.gov (Lawrence B. Keys)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Panel Status lights
Keywords: lights
Date: 7 Jan 93 14:33:32 GMT
Organization: National Institute of Standards & Technology

In article <1993Jan6.182213.20294@cs.mun.ca> michael9@nadine.cs.mun.ca (Michael Sullivan) writes:
>
>  
>  How can I get access to the status lights in the instrument panel?  (Of
>my '85 Jetta ) Without taking the entire thing apart, that is!
>I just installed a set of driving lights, and I'd like to have a
>light on the panel indicate when they are on, using one of the bulbs, 
>say, next to the high-beam indicator.
>
>  I notice that under the dash are some sockets that seem to lead into
>the instrument panel, but none of them are marked, and I'd rather not
>just experiment and end up frying something.
>

Hi Mike,

Not a bad idea at all, however, it doesn't sound like it's going to be
easy.  What i did was to purchase the factory fog light switch which
alread has a light.  It looks like the regular switches (i.e, rear
window defroster switch) and it has a light like the one in the 
rear window defroster switch.

I bought mine frome Automotive Performance Systems.
                                                  .  
                                                 /                
Larry                            __/    _______/_                 
keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov       /                  \               
                          _____     __     _____    \------- ===
            ----------- / ____/   /  /   /__  __/              \
         /     ___    /  / ___   /  /      / /    ____          |
        |    /      \/ /__ /  | /  /__  __/ /__ /       \      / 
        /___         \_______/ /_____/ /______/            ====OO
            \       /                           \       /         
                -                                   -
       ---------------- FAHRVERGNUGEN FOREVER! --------------------            
            The fact that I need to explain it to you indicates
            that you probably wouldn't understand anyway!
       ------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: zowie@daedalus.stanford.edu (Craig "Powderkeg" DeForest)
Subject: Re: Engine mods
Organization: Stanford Center for Space Science and Astrophysics
Date: 6 Jan 93 15:27:36

In article <foo> wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy) writes:
  >4) Remote oil cooler
  Never had one, but from what I understand, especially if you are keeping your
  engine stock, there really isn't all that much need for an external cooler.
  Perhaps you could think about simply putting on a slightly larger than normal
  sump.  I think Gene Berg makes some and if he does, they'd be superior 
  quality.  That'd put a little more quantity of oil in the system, helping 
  with the cooling question.

Differ differ!  In `normal' use, the bug's cooling system is just fine.  
For the type of use I liked to put mine to, it was totally inadequate.  That's
touring -- driving up and down mountains all day, or just along the freeway.

I nursed my '73 baby along through about 40,000 cross-country miles; it's
remarkably easy to overheat 'em, if you're not careful.  All you have to do 
is ride up a moderately long hill in the daytime, or cross, say, the 
San Joaquin Valley at 55mph in 100-degree weather.  Best to add an external
cooler and rest easy.

(I eventually melted-down the '73 engine:  had an extremely bad day in San
Diego and proceeded to barrel up I-5 to San Francisco, not even thinking about
poor Schlep.  He'd been extremely faithful up till then, but developed an
sudden and extreme case of `slightly cracked heads', then blew his front seal,
a mere 120 miles from home!  Adding 90W oil in copious quantities got me home,
but Schlep's other problems were too much for him, and it was the Organ Banks
for him )-:

--
DON'T DRINK SOAP! DILUTE DILUTE! OK!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: Re: [W] Hor Technology Cam
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1993 01:41:50 GMT

In article <79640@hydra.gatech.EDU>, gt6280d@prism.gatech.EDU (John S. Cobb) writes:
>Yesterday, I ordered a Hor Technology Hydro-Sport cam for my '90 Jetta...
>$99!!!!
>
>Lifetime Warrantee
>U.S. Billet
>270-degree duration, 449 lift(?)
>$99
>
>Too cheap for me to pass-up.  Does anyone have any experience with  
>Autotech, or Hor Tech.?  Autotech carries some high-quality stuff, so
>this price caught me off-guard (has anyone seen their T-6 ALUMINUM 
>upper stress bar, beautiful).
>
Autotech stuff is generally good quality. I have the Authotech/Hor cam in the 86 G
86 GTI, and it has well over 150k miles on it (using Mobil 1 of course). I've
had no problems with it.

Ric


>I expect it a week from Tuesday, I'll post once it's installed.
>
>Please use email.
> 
>-- 
>_____________________________________________________________________________ 
> John S. Cobb                            |<THE WORDS ABOVE ARE EXCLUSIVELY 
> Georgia Tech/Saturn Corporation (Co-Op) |      THE OPINIONS OF THE AUTHOR>
> INTERNET:  gt6280d@prism.gatech.edu     |
From: jdonsbac@cvbnet.prime.com (Jeff Donsbach)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: What's up with that...
Date: 12 Jan 93 18:11:43 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Computervision, Bedford MA

[Hi Folks. Happy New Year! I've been too busy with real work since before
Thanksgiving to keep up with the group. When did all this [A] and [W] stuff
start? ]

In article <1993Jan5.221246.774@linus.mitre.org>,m17108@mwunix (Jason Douglas)
writes:
>In article <2884203EC400.2.0@sscl.uwo.ca> 2884203EC400@sscl.uwo.ca writes:
>>
>>I've had my jetta for a while, an now, in the style of Cliff Claven I 
>>ask...
>>
>>
>>Why is it that the radio does not go off with the key?  What's up with 
>>that?  While I enjoy being able to sing to the radio all of the way up the 
>>front steps and into my house, I hate coming out to the car in the morning 
>>to find that the tape has auto-reversed itself for twelve hours.
>
>Many folks have complained about the radio, and I recall rumors VW has changed
>this in the new models.

My wife's '92 Passat will automatically turn the radio off as soon as
you remove the key from the ignition. If you just turn the ignition off,
the radio stays on. A good compromise for the traditionalists and the
average joe car owner, IMHO.

-Jeff

-- 
=========================
Jeff Donsbach, Computervision Corp, 14 Crosby Dr. MS 5-2, Bedford, MA 01730
UUCP: {decvax|linus|sun}!cvbnet!jdonsbac | Internet: jdonsbac@cvbnet.prime.com
"10 bucks is 10 bucks" - Geddy Lee                       (soon to be CV.Com ??)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: [A] More on (moron?) the 56 bug
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 19:35:24 GMT

For the past couple of days, with New Year's Day, etc., I haven't
done much to the 56. Today, I was finally able to steal some
time away (and probably tomorrow too) and head down to the 
garage.

The motor has been running fine, but there was an exhaust leak at
the manifold on #3 cylinder. I figured that this would be a job
for muffler cement because those exhaust nuts usually don't like
to be turned after they have been on for years...and years.

Just for the hell of it, I sprayed the nuts, and took the 14 mm
wrench (most of the nuts and bolts are 14 rather than 13 on the
pre 60 bugs), and damn if they didn't turn and eventually tighten
and seal the exhaust leak.

It was time to get the brakes functioning again. So out came
the  master cylinder and in went the new one. Unfortunately,
the rubber grommet which holds the brake resevoir pipe in 
place had a bigger hole than the pipe, so out came the
silicone cement to make a "seal". I figure that it
should cure for 24 hrs, so I'll wait to bleed the brakes
until tomorrow. I did, however,  do an autopsy on the
old master cylinder...it was full of crud!

I had some extra time on my hands, so it was time to
dump that 12 year old oil/mystery oil combo I had in
the motor and replace it with fresh new stuff. The
oil screen base had some "sludge" on the bottom (although
the rocker arm part of the heads were nice and clean),
but I could feel no metalic shavings, etc. That was 
good!

In went the new oil, I fired it up!  After a couple of minutes
some of the tell-tale smoke went away, the new oil was doing
its job!

Tomorrow, its time to bleed the brakes!

Ric
From: amh2@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (ALOIS M. HIMSL)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Audi GT Coupe Parts... Help!
Date: 8 Jan 93 21:04:05 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

I am the owner of a 1983 Audi Coupe and I would like to know if anyone has any
info on inexpensive used parts. I need an AC condenser, a power window
regulator (track) for the passenger side and a power mirror control. Thanks
for all those that responded in the past. Keep in touch.
From: jtong73@calvin.edu (Joanna Tong)
Subject: knock sensor ignitions
Organization: Calvin College
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 04:49:38 GMT


Dear Fellow VW fanatics,
     Of all of you out there reading this are there any of you who have 
installed the knock sensor ignition from a newer car (eg. 86 GTI) to 
an earlier car (eg. 82)?   EC magazine has all these articles on engine
swaps and so I thought surely out of all the people on the net someone
has done the ignition swap.  However, I have heard from no one that has 
actually done it.  Are engine swaps for that uncommon?
Give me a holler if you have .  thanks

Peter Tong


Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: "jim hepworth" <jim.hepworth@canrem.com>
Subject: 1979 vw rabbit diesel pro
Reply-To: "jim hepworth" <jim.hepworth@canrem.com>
Organization: Canada Remote Systems
Distribution: rec
Date: 12 Jan 93 19:19:36 EST

UN:

SS>    Subject: 1979 VW Rabbit diesel Problem

SS>It is either your glow plugs or your fuel injectors, with 90% odds
SS>for the glow plugs.  They have to be replaced about every two years
SS>here in Colorado.  They are $12.95 each at Recycled ____ and can be
SS>installed by your mother-in-law in less than an hour.  20 minutes if
SS>you've done it before.  Just Do It.

OK. I'd like to know how to do this as my manuals don't spell it out. I
was ready to change mine on my 84 Rabbit Diesel til I found that the
Fuel Injector is very much in the way. Are the 79 and 84 models that
different in terms of accesibility to the plugs?
---
  SLMR 2.1a  Nothing is so smiple that it can't get screwed up.
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
From: eapg124@orion.oac.uci.edu (Douglas Gerhard Jahn)
Subject: Looking for mechanic in LA area.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Organization: University of California, Irvine
Date: 8 Jan 93 22:05:52 GMT

I just moved out to LA (Orange County) and I need to find a 
mechanic for my 84 GTi.  Can anyone recommend a shop around the
Orange county area?  
				Many Thanks,

				    Doug (eapg124@orion.oac.uci.edu)
					 (dgjst1@vms.cis.pitt.edu)

"Hey Duke, let's go do some crimes."
"Yea, uh, let's get some sushi and not pay."
 		----Repo Man

  
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: blaine@garfield.catt.ncsu.edu (Greyland Blaine Mull)
Subject: New VW's
Organization: Computer and Technologies Theme Program, NCSU, Raleigh
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 15:41:12 GMT

Greetings all,

	I just got back to school after vacationing in London over
Christmas break.  As usual, when overseas I always must visit my
favorate German dealerships, esp. VW.  WOW - did the 93 euro models look
great!  I had the opportunity to check out the new Vento (Jetta to USA)
with the VR6 and the Golf VR6 - the quality and fit and finish was
super.  If I could get hold of one I would run down to the local
dealership and trade in my 88 Jetta GL for the euro Golf VR6 - this car
really reinvents the term its father the GTI coined in the 80's, "pocket
rocket".  
	England gets a model called a Polo (similar somewhat to our fox
line), and they have a variation of this model that would seem to sell
real well here if available.  It is called the Polo G40 coupe and it has
a 1.3 liter 113 HP supercharged engine.  This would seem to be a fun
little car head to head against all the low end stuff in the states.

Happy New Year!
-grey

 Grey Mull	       +Disclamer:  I didn't say it,-+  Macintosh
 blaine@catt.ncsu.edu  |   You didn't see me say it, |       to
 gbmull@eos.ncsu.edu   +---You can't prove anything!-+      NeXT...
NC State CATT Program				Steve Jobs continues...
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: tacchi@ccu.umanitoba.ca (Mark G. Tacchi)
Subject: Re: VW Bug Front Tires should be 18 lb?
Organization: University of Manitoba, Winnipeg, Canada
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 02:45:44 GMT

In <1993Jan7.201736.25639@nntp.nta.no> BARANSKI@veamf1.nusc.navy.mil (Jim Baranski) writes:

>It says in the glovebox of my 72 bug, that the front tires should be 18 lb?

>Is that right?  That sounds terribly low.  Will 18 lb make a difference from
>the usual 32 lb?

18 lbs is about the right pressure for the front with 24 lbs (or so) for the
rear.  You should increase the pressure if the car is fully loaded or if you
are driving fast for a long period.  These values are for stock size tires.

I think that the 32 lb is the rated max pressure for the tires and these do not
necessarily reflect the correct pressure.  Inflating to this pressure may
result in over inflation and uneven tire wear.  Under inflation will wear
unevenly too.  Also, be sure that left and right pressures are the same or
you'll find that the car will tend to wander and again, resulting in uneven
wear.

-Mark
-- 
Mark G. Tacchi                                    tacchi@next01.cc.umanitoba.ca
  Unix Support Group                                        (NeXT Mail Welcome)
  University of Manitoba Computer Services
 "My opinions are my own, and do not necessarily reflect those of my employer."
From: ti@bazooka.amb.org (Ti Kan)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: [W] 5 Pot engine
Date: 8 Jan 93 06:44:50 GMT
Reply-To: ti@bazooka.UUCP (Ti Kan)
Organization: AMB Research Labs, Sunnyvale, CA.

In article <1993Jan1.200105.18390@julian.uwo.ca> morton@gaul.csd.uwo.ca (Brent Morton) writes:
>In article <1992Dec31.182539.13041@wes.on.ca> tomh@wes.on.ca (Tom Haapanen) writes:
>>> michaelb@compnews.co.uk (Michael Burton) writes:
>>>> Having read about the bullet proof 5 cylinder engine that Audi produce,
>>>> I must say that my Audi Coupe 2ltr had done nearly 110000 miles and
>>>> it is still as sweet as a nut.
>>
>>bernie@metapro.DIALix.oz.au (Bernd Felsche) writes:
>>> My Audi 5+5 (which became the "90" in Europe) had 178000 km
>>> on it when sold. Burnt a bit of oil. Mechanic told me it was
>>> all through the valve guides as compression was still good.
>>
>>Mu friend's '84 Audi Coupe GT has 385,000 km (240,000 miles) on it right
>>now on the original engine.  Things wear out slowly, but it just keeps
>>going and going and going...
>
>My '84 4000 S went 252 000 km (157 500 miles) of hard driving on the original
>engine, and now has 87 000 km (54 000 miles) on its second engine, which I
>transplanted from a wrecked '86.

Looks like we're starting a cacade... My '80 Audi 4000 now just passed the
175,000 mile mark, and that trusty 1.6L engine is still running strong.  At
the rate it's going, it'll probably last another 100,000 miles.  But, I
want more power, so I made myself a new year's resolution that this year
sometime, I will upgrade it to a Techtonics 2045cc motor with a ported
hydraulic head... I can't wait.

VW/Porsche/Audi.  You know it makes sense.

-Ti


-- 
    ///  Ti Kan                vorsprung durch technik
   ///   AMB Research Laboratories, Sunnyvale, CA. USA
  ///    ti@amb.org
 //////  ...!{decwrl,synopsys,tandem,tsoft,ultra}!sgiblab!bazooka!ti
///      ...!{uunet,sun,apple,sco}!altos!bazooka!ti
Organization: Junior, English, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Date: Fri,  8 Jan 1993 15:30:53 -0500 
From: "Douglas S. Brashear" <db6j+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: '74 Super...THANKS

I'd like to take this opportunity to thank everyone who provided advice
on how to correct my emissions problem on my 1974 SuperBeetle.  I took
it to be inspected today, and just a little while ago I received word
from the mechanic at the gas station that it has passed.
DOUG---> On the road again!
db6j+@andrew.cmu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: wtjones@sr.hp.com ()
Subject: Re: decelerating by downshifting 
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 16:48:15 GMT
Organization: HP Sonoma County (SRSD/MWTD/MID)
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

I have an '85 Jetta with 177K miles on it.  
I continually downshift all the way to second gear when braking, if I have
the room and it is not a panic stop.
I have been doing this since I learned to drive. My first car was a 
'63 Rambler 550 classic and I learned to drive in San Francisco.
Never have I had any problems with the tranny or engin.
A previous poster mentioned that it is cheaper to replace shoes than
the engin.  The engin will not wear any more. If anything, the
tranny will be stressed.  
If you think that the tranny will get any more stress, consider that
when you accelerate, there is quite a bit of stress.  
The tranny is designed to take unilateral stresses.  The thing is 
symetrical.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: bossoj@aix.rpi.edu (Joseph Charles Bossolini)
Subject: Re: 1979 VW Rabbit diesel Problem
Keywords: VW, Rabbit, Diesel
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 15:38:34 GMT

In article <1993Jan8.022326.29188@mdd.comm.mot.com> brothers@mdd.comm.mot.com (Joseph Brothers) writes:
>In article <1993Jan7.175540.19595@sequent.com> beck@sequent.com ("W. Scott Beck") writes:
>>[...]
>>1979 Rabbit Diesel [...]
>>4 degrees (F) [...] would not start. It has
>
>Possible causes:
>
>    1) glow plugs or glow plug circuit not 100%
[stuff deleted]

Don't know about a Rabbit diesel, but my 82 Audi diesel has a 50 amp fuse
(on the firewall under the hood) for the glow plugs that could be your
problem.  I just replaced mine again (about every couple years) the other day.
It was cold, the engine turned over but wouldn't start because the glow plugs
weren't heating  up.  Again, this might not help you because I don't know
if the Rabbit has this, but you could check anyway...

BTW my diesel has 240K + miles and is still running great..

Joe


Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw