HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jgladu@bcm.tmc.edu (grungy (John F. Gladu))
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: [W] Vanagon tires
Followup-To: rec.autos.vw
Date: 22 Dec 1992 18:23:56 GMT
Organization: Systems Support Center, BCM
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: j.ssctr.bcm.tmc.edu

Time to put new tires on my wife's '90 Vanagon and it currently has
Michelin MXL P205/70R14's on it.  The local tire dealers tell us that these
are no longer being made and we should switch to EPX's or XH4's.  I've also
read somewhere in this group something about the load rating necessary for
use on Vanagons.

I've had no real complaints with the MXL's, except for an affinity for
steel-belt-edge punctures.  Never had a traction problem.

Please email any suggestions for tires.  Thanks!

bcnu - grungy (John Gladu)
Systems Support Center -- Baylor College of Medicine
INTERNET: jgladu@bcm.tmc.edu  | VOICE: (713)798-7370
 US MAIL:  One Baylor Plaza, Houston, Texas  77030
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu
Subject: Re: [A] VW Bug survivability in hot climate?
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1992 15:39:56 GMT
Organization: University of Louisville

In article <eric.8@eeco.cba.ufl.edu>, eric@eeco.cba.ufl.edu (Eric E.C. Olson) writes:
> 
> I live in Florida... mighty hot summers.  A friend of mine used to have a VW 
> Bus, and she said that she used to blow head gaskets in summer, and have 

Busses are harder on their engines.  (what head gaskets?)  

> lots of overheating problems.  She didn't have an oil cooler.
> 
> Should I worry about this before buying a Bug?  Should I install an oil 
> cooler?  Any strong feelings about which one?  or where?

Buy a '73 or later Bug or an earlier Bug with a doghouse oil cooler.  You have
nothing more to fear. (Assuming you keep the car tuned up and the oil level up)
If there is a fat protruberance in front (towards the firewall) of the
fanshroud, then it's a doghouse fanshroud.

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
|pH Fred == pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu    |                               |
|        == ..!psuvax1!ulkyvx.bitnet!pgheit01 |   IBM-  It may be slow, but   |
|           University of Louisville          |    at least it's expensive.   |
|                Louisville, KY               |                               |
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
From: dheckman@novell.com (Diane Heckman)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Help needed with my 72 camper van
Summary: starting, shifting
Date: 28 Dec 92 18:11:21 GMT
Followup-To: dheckman@novell.com
Organization: Novell Inc., San Jose, Califonia


   Thanks to everyone who responded to my freaking out about
the OIL light coming on in my '72 camper van.  Since we 
just took the van 1500 miles to Portland and back, we 
are assuming no damage was done.   
     On the long boring trip through the Sacramento Valley,
I was reading the owner's manual (yes, all of the paperwork
for the past 20 years is still with the car, the previous
owner was a packrat).  It listed "oil consumption - (3 or 5)
pints per 1000 miles.  This would explain the oil getting low.
But, what is "oil consumption"?  Where does the oil go?  Does
it evaporate?

     Second problem.  We left Portland at 6:30AM and drove
pretty much nonstop to Vacaville (500 miles at least).  7 PM.
Nothing unusual, driving up mountain grades in 3rd, battling
a winter wind storm (50 MPH gusts) 150 miles before Vacaville, 
driving with the lights on all day, playing the radio at full
volume (and still not being able to hear it).  Ah, yes, somewhere
100 miles before, my boyfriend (who is learning how to drive)
stalled it about 10 times on a hill, before I took over.  (Does
this wear the starter?  Is it bad for anything?)  
     Anyway, we pull up to a gas station, fill up 
(5 minutes max, everything  turned off), get in, and the 
car doesn't start.  The oil and gen lights come on, but 
the starter motor doesn't turn.  Doesn't click or cluck 
or anything.  Complete silence.  Headlights are nice and 
bright, so the battery must be OK.  (Right???)  We call AAA.  
Get out the idiots guide, and push the car backwards in 
3rd gear.  No change.  We were about to crawl under the car 
to check out the starter when the AAA man came to rescue us.  
He jump started us, and we were off.  Back home, we 
successfully restarted the car 10 minutes after stopping it.  
What happened here?  Any hints?

    Please help!  Now I don't trust the car to start.  We haven't
tried to start it after last night.

     Last question.  What are the proper shifting points.  I had 
been shifting at 15-25-40, but the idiot's guide sez that
a bus can use 15-30-45.  What is proper?



Thanks again-
Diane
dheckman@novell.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: gds@cbnewsi.cb.att.com (glenn.d.strouse)
Subject: BUYING 93 PASSAT GLX, NEED ADVICE
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 15:54:49 GMT


 	I've finally decided to buy the GLX. But I have some questions for
	the netters.

	I would like to know how the Passat did in crash testing.

	Any know problems with previous Passats?  

	Any know caveats about this car?

	The sticker is $22,500.  Does anyone know what dealer cost is
	on this car?
      
                                  Thanks in advance
				      Glenn Strouse
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: m17108@mwunix (Jason Douglas)
Subject: Re: Camper .vs Bus
Summary: Camper configurations 
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean VA
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 16:09:46 GMT

>
>I understand that the popup roofs are partially for standing room, and on some
>there is a small bed in the back on top of the normal roof under the popup
>roof?  How good are these?  Are these mostly for kids?  It seems that some
>popups only pop up one end and slant down to the other end; do some pop up on
>both ends?
>
My 87 Vanagon is a what the Germans called a "Multi-van."  It has the fold down rear seat, the pop-top, and a removable electric fridge (120 vac/12vdc with a
second battery and 12v outlet).  This is a wonderful set up - you get a
van with few compromises (the main being a seating capacity of only 6 -- vs
only *4* for the full camper, and yet you get the necessary camping amenities.
I'd rather cook with my coleman outside anyway.

Yes, we found that a tent that attached to the rain gutter over the sliding
door is imensely useful but I wonder where you would get one in the states.

Anyway, to answer the question -- the upper bed is definitely useful, although
it is quite a bit more cosy for two than a queen bed.  The mattress, however,
is somewhat thin and I find the lower bed more comfortable.  The kids love
the upper bed, but if they are young you might be concerned about them falling 
out at night.  I let the 5 and 6 year olds sleep with their heads all the way
back away from the edge and they're happy.  The 2 year old has to sleep down-
stairs.

BTW, I was always concerned that the rear-hinged pop-top could create a
disaster on the highway if you don't properly latch the top.  (There is
a notice on the dash to reinforce that worry).  Although I resolved to never
make such a low-life foolish, imcompetent mistake, I did last month.  I had 
been messing with the skylight (vent), trying to stop the leak (I'm afraid
that massive applications of RTV on the bolts are the next step) and didn't 
latch it.  The next day, we were on the interstate at 65 mph.  We noticed that
the wind noise was higher than usual, but I thought it might have been due to
removing and reinstalling the vent.  When we got onto a large bridge, the
co-pilot noticed the roof bouncing about, but not raising perilously as feared.
The canvas seemed to fill with air, tending to pull the top down.  I'm not
sure what would have happened if the canvas window had been unzipped.  Has
anyone found out?

Jason (jdouglas@mitre.org)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: tomh@wes.on.ca (Tom Haapanen)
Subject: Re: [W] 5 Pot engine
Organization: Waterloo Engineering Software
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 18:25:39 GMT

> michaelb@compnews.co.uk (Michael Burton) writes:
>> Having read about the bullet proof 5 cylinder engine that Audi produce,
>> I must say that my Audi Coupe 2ltr had done nearly 110000 miles and
>> it is still as sweet as a nut.

bernie@metapro.DIALix.oz.au (Bernd Felsche) writes:
> My Audi 5+5 (which became the "90" in Europe) had 178000 km
> on it when sold. Burnt a bit of oil. Mechanic told me it was
> all through the valve guides as compression was still good.

Mu friend's '84 Audi Coupe GT has 385,000 km (240,000 miles) on it right
now on the original engine.  Things wear out slowly, but it just keeps
going and going and going...

[ \tom haapanen  |  "only auto racing, bullfighting and mountain climbing are ]
[ tomh@wes.on.ca |   sports -- all others are only games" -- ernest hemingway ]
[ waterloo engineering software |     "to thine own self be true" -- polonius ]
From: gmorr@reg.triumf.ca (Gerald D. Morris, UBC Physics (604)822-3714)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: CIS on a Rabbit
Date: 1 Jan 1993 12:08 PST
Organization: TRIUMF: Tri-University Meson Facility
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: reg.triumf.ca
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    

In my part of Britsh Columbia we are now required to pass an emmisions
test before you can get your insurance. My '79 Rabbit (5 speed box,
1/4 million kilometers) *almost* passed the test. On hydrobarbons
and NOx it's fine, well below the limits, but under load it puts 
out 3.83% CO, just over the 3.5% limit. This is after a day of 
tuning and tweaking the CO adjustment, with the aid of a Sun EPA 75 
gas analyzer. I fail to understand how the HC can be very low (64ppm) 
but the CO so high. Its seems to have the correct mixture at idle
but is too rich at 2500rpm under load, although it runs fine.
  How do you adjust the fuel pressure on this CIS system? There appears
to be a needle valve near the fuel return line on the fuel distributor,
but how it is adjusted is not obvious to me. It is not the part shown
in any book I have seen. The car has a new fuel filter and recently
changed injectors and electric pump. 

Gerald Morris                                 Happy New Year !
UBC, Vancouver, BC, Canada 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: seymour@bnr.ca (Jeffrey Seymour)
Subject: Re: Snow tires vs. All-season radials
Reply-To: seymour@bnr.ca (Jeffrey Seymour)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 92 14:31:11 GMT

I don't know about what the service dude was telling you but I have allways found that snow tires (4) are REQUIRED where I live (Ottawa). All seasons are too much of a compromise.  Summer radials are usually much better suited to summer driving.

I have a 3 series BMW with Hakka-Pellitas and it makes the car usable in the winter (everyone knows 3 -series BMWs are absolutely garbage in the winter). I also have a passat with 4 new eagle GA's on it (pretty good all season).  The GA's are OK, but provide nowhere near the traction of a snow.

Guess what I'm giving myself for christmas - Hakka's.

p.s. get thin snows - the thinner the better.
From: jim@sequent.com (Jim King)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Help needed with my 72 camper van
Date: 29 Dec 92 18:32:38 GMT
Article-I.D.: sequent.1992Dec29.183238.17930
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems, Inc.

In article <9212290103.AA28559@hood.pcx.ncd.com> jcb@hood (Jim Becker) writes:
>
>   Subject: Help needed with my 72 camper van
>   
>   Anyway, we pull  up  to  a  gas  station,  fill  up  (5  minutes  max,
>   everything turned off), get in, and the car doesn't  start.   The  oil
>
>this sounds like what happened to me. what is happening is  that  your
>starter is going, although it still works when the engine/transmission
>is cold/warm.


I lived with this same problem on my '77 westfalia camper bus for two years. It
only happened when the engine got good and warm as on a long trip.  My 
temporary solution that never failed me in those two years was to place my
big folding cardboard windshield sunvisor under the passenger side rear of
the bus, crawl under the bus sliding on the cardboard, take my 12" crescent
wrench and bang the solenoid twice. It ALWAYS started after doing this. :-) 

A couple months ago I finally replaced the whole starter.  No more need for
the sometimes embarrassing crawl under the ol' bus.

jim       ( jim@sequent.com  Portland, Oregon ) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: dgarvey@phys1.physics.wsu.edu (Dennis Garvey)
Subject: Parts for '58 bug
Organization: Washington State University
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 92 18:32:38 GMT

A couple of weeks ago somebody posted a notice that they were looking for parts for a
'58 bug. I thought I'd pass along this ad from a local newspaper (Spokane, WA area):
               Volkwagons: '58 and '59 for parts $350. Call days
               and weekends 509-994-7993; evenings Mon - Thur
                509-328-2702           
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com (Bob Rusk)
Subject: Re: Need advice on 1st Beetle, please
Reply-To: rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com
Organization: Harris Computer Systems Division
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 14:52:02 GMT
	<1992Dec17.191020.17481@dartvax.dartmouth.edu>
	<1h07foINNoma@agate.berkeley.edu>
	<1992Dec20.085550.13074@u.washington.edu>

On Sun, 20 Dec 1992 08:55:50 GMT, dali@stein.u.washington.edu (David A. Lee) wrote:

>In '71 they included an electric fan to help the heat or defrost
>along.  With my 1970 Squareback I just missed it...  :(

I don't believe this was included on the Bugs, although it was available
aftermarket.  Neither of my '71 Bugs had it, nor did my friend's '74 Super.
--
 Bob Rusk
 rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com
 My thoughts, probably not Harris'.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: SMITTEN!!!!!
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 20:40:34 GMT

Ok, the 56 beetle has been sitting around in the garage for the 
past 10 years or so, its a bit dusty, needs a battery, some
TLC...other cars have come and gone, the GTIs are enough to keep
me buisy...

But the air cooled discussions of late have got me thinking about
the old bug...then today it happened ....POW...right between the
eyes (and alas down to the wallet)...got a copy of the catalogue
from Rocky Mountain Motorworks...neat stuff...but the picture of
all those oval windowed bugs on the cover was too much for me
to handle....that's it the MG is going off the road...
it looks like during the Christmas break its time to get the
old beetle up and about again!!

Can't wait to hear the whirrrr of that old 36 hp...the feel
of a non-synchro 1st....Gee...where is my old copy of
Kraftwerk's Autobahn.

Thanks for letting me ramble!

BTW, has anyone out there had experience with RMM?

Ric "I'm just an Oval fool" Golen
From: Ralph.C.Lindenfeld@dartmouth.edu (Ralph C. Lindenfeld)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: [A] Saga of the 56 Beetle continues
Date: 29 Dec 92 13:34:42 GMT
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH
X-Posted-From: InterNews1.0b3@newshost.dartmouth.edu

Keep up the good work. Your posts are interesting and encouraging to
folks (like me who's getting a '60 on the road)

Ralph Lindenfeld
1960 VW Panelvan
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Re: Splitting this Group
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 20:49:52 GMT

In article <BzIDwq.Lwq@umassd.edu>, rgolen@UMASSD.EDU writes:
|> The point is that I, and possibly others, have an interest in 
|> both areas, none of which I see as mutually exclusive. I enjoy
|> VWs, dare I admit I remember the days when they were the 
|> number 1 import, and I wish I hadn't sold some of my past
|> "pets". I have had my share of #3 exhaust valves going
|> south (hint...adjust the exhaust valve on #3 .002" more
|> than you do on your other valves), using thin pieces
|> of tin to build up the centerlink on early Type IIs but
|> I have also lifted a few rear wheels, etc. on watercooled
|> cars. GTIs are a whole lot of fun, so are 56 Beetles, different
|> yet the same.

I agree with Rick, some of us have interests in both.  I really cannot
see why there cannot be a article about something else in the net.
Maybe we should leave rec.autos.vw alone and let the rebel rousers
go off and start a separate group called rec.autos.vw.fanatics.
But then someone on that group might not like talking about buses
or Ghia's.  Give us a break people!

BTW, there would be hardly any traffic on this group if it weren't for 
all the posts regards splitting the group.

Mark
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: 1950 VW Beetle Model Kit
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 1992 00:28:43 GMT

While finishing up my shopping today, stopped by the hobby shop
and found a kit for a 1950 Beetle from Japan. The label on
the box proudly proclaimed it was a "spRit" Window VW.

Ric Golen
From: keys@starchild.ncsl.nist.gov (Lawrence B. Keys)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Feedback on '87 Fox.
Date: 23 Dec 92 14:46:17 GMT
Organization: National Institute of Standards & Technology

In article <1992Dec22.202611.185@engage.pko.dec.com> mahajan@milpnd.enet.dec.com (Rakesh M. DEC Maynard MA ...) writes:
>
>       Looking on feedback on 87 VW Fox . Since
>it was the first year of this model. All the pro
>and cons in buying a used '87 VW Fox car with about 
>75K will be appreciated.
>
>Thanks in advance
>Rakesh 


I don't know if there are any differences between the '87 Fox and
the '90 Fox.  We have a '90 Fox and it has been a trouble free car.
The only thing which has been replaced was the water pump (under
warranty).  Our Fox has about 28k on it.  It doesn't accelerate very
fast, but is a peppy car.  It doesn't have the 5 speed like the newer
Fox but i think that since its birth it has remained relatively 
unchanged.
                                                  .  
                                                 /                
Larry                            __/    _______/_                 
keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov       /                  \               
                          _____     __     _____    \------- ===
            ----------- / ____/   /  /   /__  __/              \
         /     ___    /  / ___   /  /      / /    ____          |
        |    /      \/ /__ /  | /  /__  __/ /__ /       \      / 
        /___         \_______/ /_____/ /______/            ====OO
            \       /                           \       /         
                -                                   -
       ---------------- FAHRVERGNUGEN FOREVER! --------------------            
            The fact that I need to explain it to you indicates
            that you probably wouldn't understand anyway!
       ------------------------------------------------------------

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang)
Subject: Re: [w] Dashboard Lights
Organization: Brandeis University
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 19:24:27 GMT

In article <28876@oasys.dt.navy.mil> kiviat@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Brian Kiviat) writes:
>Thanks for all the response to my dash light Q's. It seems to be a very
>time consuming job....what a bitch.

Well, it might not be quite that time consuming.  I'm uncertain re: 86
Golf, but I know that in '84 Rabbit, you can remove the left speaker
(one screw) and reach in behind the dash to unscrew the bulb holder.
About 10mins if you know which protrusion to unscrew.  Check a service
manual to see if this tip still applies to '86.

A similar thing can be done for the right side light by removing the
radio.  (again for the '84).

-andy huang
From: tomh@wes.on.ca (Tom Haapanen)
Subject: Re: The VW domino effect
Organization: Waterloo Engineering Software
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 03:41:57 GMT

savoia@sw.stratus.com (Rick Savoia) writes:
> I brought my car in for front brake work ($225) two months ago.

Did my own front brakes ('90 GTI 16V) three months ago.  $50 for parts.

> [...].  I need a "full service" which I just had 35k ago ($300).

Had a full service (48,000 km/30,000 miles) last month.  My dealer 
charged me $90.

> I pick up the car and they tell me that I need back brake work now [...]
> and that my rear passenger brakes are gone and rubbing on the drum  [...].
> They also told me that at my next major service [...] my timing belt is 
> going to have to be replaced (easily close to $200) and while
> driving it to the mechanic today, I heard a very loud clicking
> noise coming from the front of the car which I can almost
> guarantee is the water pump which I just had replaced [...]

This can't be for real!

> I have to shell out close to $1000 (for the worst case) to keep the
> blasted thing going!!  Is it my imagination or does VW now build things
> to break down all at the same time!

Or is your dealer in dire need of business?  Seriously, I don't like the
sound of this.  I'd definitely get a second opinion.

> I've always loved the way that VW's have handled, but the cost
> of repairs ($30 fuel filters and $20 air filters and $300 
> tune ups) in comparison to friends American cars (most parts
> under $20 and tune ups under $100) and the reliability that
> they are getting, I'm beginning to think that VW just doesn't
> measure up anymore. :(

Incidentally, at least here in Canada, Honda and Toyota scheduled 
service costs, as a rule, about twice as much as VW scheduled maintenance.

[ \tom haapanen  |  "only auto racing, bullfighting and mountain climbing are ]
[ tomh@wes.on.ca |   sports -- all others are only games" -- ernest hemingway ]
[ waterloo engineering software |     "to thine own self be true" -- polonius ]
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: "jim hepworth" <jim.hepworth@canrem.com>
Subject: rabbit doorpost prob.
Reply-To: "jim hepworth" <jim.hepworth@canrem.com>
Organization: Canada Remote Systems
Distribution: rec
Date: 23 Dec 92 11:36:49 EST

A while back someone made mention of their Rabbit having door-closing
problems. The problem was with the plastic insert which goes around the
striker post itself which was $2 and change. When I went to my VW
dealer, he tells me he only has a listing for the whole post itself
(more $$). Can someone confirm that this part can be purchsed from a VW
dealer. If not, who can supply these. Tom N., if you have these, I'll
buy em from ya.
---
  SLMR 2.1a  h$ s  G  g.
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
From: ti@bazooka.amb.org (Ti Kan)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Splitting this Group (Not!)
Date: 22 Dec 92 17:37:41 GMT
Reply-To: ti@bazooka.UUCP (Ti Kan)
Organization: AMB Research Labs, Sunnyvale, CA.

The last thing we need is yet more newsgroup proliferation.  It is a simple
matter to indicate clearly in the subject title whether the topic is
water-cooled related or air-cooled related.  Please, don't split the group.

-Ti
-- 
    ///  Ti Kan                vorsprung durch technik
   ///   AMB Research Laboratories, Sunnyvale, CA. USA
  ///    ti@amb.org
 //////  ...!{decwrl,synopsys,tandem,tsoft,ultra}!sgiblab!bazooka!ti
///      ...!{uunet,sun,apple,sco}!altos!bazooka!ti