HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: ffujita@s.psych.uiuc.edu (Frank Fujita)
Subject: Re: FW: filtration switch questions
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 17:28:24 GMT

glarimer@us.oracle.com ("Gordon Larimer") writes:
>		deal of muck on the bottom.  I hate to even think about what's
>		underneath the filter plate -- well, I moved the tank a year
>		ago, so I have an pretty good idea what's under there).

On both of my tanks, all I have to do is get underneath the stand and
look up, and voila' I can see what is underneath the UGF plate.  Am I
wierd in having stands that only support the perimeter of the tank?

Frank Fujita
From: thk@sgi.com (Tom Kong)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Materials for Light Hoods
Date: 27 Aug 92 17:56:34 GMT
Organization: Silicon Graphics Inc., Mountain View, CA

In article <1992Aug24.150448.14122@esrican.uucp> schwarz@esrican.uucp (Mr.Coach) writes:
>
>
>I am about to construct a light hood made of 3/8" solid wood 
>(ie. not plywood) and tongue & groove pine for my 72g marine 
>tank.  I intend to have an opening in the back for ventilation.  
>If I decide to go the MH route, then I'll buy one
>or two fans.  
>
>1)  What wood can/should I use?  I'd prefer something rather 
>inexpensive yet practical.  Then again, who doesn't.  I'd like 
>to avoid oak since whatever I use will be covered by the pine.
>Besides, oak is expensive.
>

I just finished building a light hood this past weekend, and
the same questions were flowing through my mind.  I was worried
about the heat warping the wood or even causing it to catch fire.

I think the key to not warping the wood from heat is good
good ventilation.  I have one 18W fan running, and the hood stays cool 
even when both the MH and the HO actinics are running.  My old hood 
had 5 flourescents, with two of them HO, and with two small fans install
in a way that didn't encourage good air flow, the wood got quite warm 
to the touch after a few hours.

I ended up using 3/4" mahogeny (fast grown kind from the Phillipines,
not the fancy kind) because it was cheaper than oak, and not much
more expensive than even #2 pine.   Hey, if I raid the reef for its 
bounties, I might as well balance it out by using hardwood from the 
tropical rain forest  :-).

I just used normal satin polyurethane for finish.  Don't know
if is toxic.  My tank doesn't splash at all so I don't expect
signicant contact between the wood and the water.  So far the corals
seem not bothered by the finish.  In fact they are quite happy
from the improved lighting and cooler water temps.

/tom
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:7037 alt.aquaria:4862
From: steve@celia.UUCP (Steve Tyree)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: [M][R] Improving Captive Reef Base Rock
Date: 2 Sep 92 19:07:52 GMT
Reply-To: celia!steve@usc.edu (Steve Tyree)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Rhythm & Hues, Inc., Hollywood

In article <1992Sep2.134014.24575@stsci.edu> wissler@stsci.edu (Steven Wissler,G12,4899,ADD.1-29-91) writes:
->I have also put some "dead" rock in my reef tank as part of the
->base rock in hopes of it becoming "live rock". Since live rock may at
->sometime become harder to get, I hope this technique can be used
->to reduce the amount of "live" rock taken from the ocean. So far
->the "dead" picies have are gathering quite an assortment of
->algae, green and coraline, various worms and other things I haven't
->been able to identify yet. 

 Great news and good luck. Heavilly encrusted coralline algae rock can be
very colorful. Once my tank is in a Coralline State and rid of the hair
algae which grows, I will try creating new heavily encrusted coralline
rocks. These algaes are most important.

 Steve Tyree - Reef Breeder
From: booth@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (George Booth)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 18:54:37 GMT
Subject: Re: [F] Setup for plants and fish
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria

In alt.aquaria, denise@pprg.eece.unm.edu (Denise J. Richards) writes:

    OK, I have come to the conclusion that if I want to have plants in my tank,
    and have them do well, then I must do away with my UGF.  How do I do this?
 
Well, that may be an incorrect conclusion.  Before you tear down the tank and
invest in new filters, why not consider CO2 injection.  If you want plants 
to do well (which is a very subjective term, of course), you really 
should use CO2.  If you don't use CO2, your plant growth will be marginal
at best, unless you very carefully select plants that can extract the 
necessary carbon from any carbonate compounds that MAY be in your water.   

If you get AFM (Aquarium Fish Magazine), the lead photos for the "Modern
Aquascaping" articles in the Aug and Sept issues were taken in our 85 
gallon tank WITH UGF.  IMHO, the type of filter DOES NOT affect plant 
growth as long as you have the proper lighting, nutrients and CO2.  If
you do not have these key components, your success with plants with 
depend on dumb luck and will not be affected by your choice of filters
or what kind of garbage you put in the substrate. 

------
George
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: erik@marge.phys.washington.edu (Erik D. Olson)
Subject: Re: [F] Setup for plants and fish
Organization: Cosmic Ray Labratory, University of Washington
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 19:20:56 GMT

In article <BtLy2r.n2w@news.cso.uiuc.edu> ffujita@s.psych.uiuc.edu (Frank Fujita) writes:
>From: ffujita@s.psych.uiuc.edu (Frank Fujita)
>Subject: Re: [F] Setup for plants and fish
>Date: 26 Aug 92 20:25:39 GMT

>What type of plants do you suggest I keep with my goldfish?  Or should I
>"grow up" or should I get out of the hobby?

>Frank Fujita

Can hardly go wrong with Anachris (aka Elodea).   A nice cold-water "stem" 
plant that can be planted, left floating, whatever.  Doesn't need too much 
light, and grows like crazy.  They've got a goldfish & a single bunch of 
Elodea living in a beer pitcher at a local pizza place here that's been 
doing well for many months now in the ambient light of the store.

   Erik
---
Erik D. Olson				erik@marge.phys.washington.edu
UW Cosmic Ray Laboratory		     olson@phys.washington.edu

       "This is the spawning of the cage and aquarium" - TMBG
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: shane@psych.psy.uq.oz.au (Shane Brown)
Subject: Re: [F] Serpae Tetra beating the tar out of goldfish!?
Followup-To: rec.aquaria
Organization: University of Queensland. Oz.
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 01:07:53 GMT

In article <92245.130441HCM100@psuvm.psu.edu>, <HCM100@psuvm.psu.edu>
wrote:
(snippety
>.  This doesn't sound right for Serpae Tetras,> which are discribed 
> in Axelrods as lively, peaceable community fishies.

In my experience they are mean, nasty little buggers.
 
> Thoughts on the matter:  are two too few?  (read that fast!)  Do they
> need a school so that they can beat each other and not the goldfish?

Yep. I had 5 of these critters with lots of other fish, and they 
chased each other merrily the whole day long 8), without hassling
the other fish too much.
 
> Could this be a territorial display?  If so one little fishy has chosen the
> whole tank as his territory.  Could this be a predisessor (SP?) to mating
> and egglaying?  Hmmmnnn.  Any input?

They should not get territorial in the manner of say, a cichlid. Since
they roam in packs (assaulting hapless goldfish it would seem), 
territories would seem out. 

Cheers, Shane.

(o  ) (o  )      ( o ) ( o )      (  o) (  o)  -------------------~
...AND KIDS, FEEL FREE TO       Shane's Opinion: Guaranteed to be ~
   TRY THIS AT HOME !!          worthless or you pay DOUBLE !     ~
-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_ ~_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-~
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: faith@wam.umd.edu (Jay)
Subject: Cannister Filter Question ?????????????????
Organization: University of Maryland, College Park
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 13:04:48 GMT

I know this question was asked once before but I didn't see anything posted
about it.  I am in the proccess of moving my tank and I have a fluval 403.
What is the best way to put the media in?

            #1               #2              #3

           FOAM            CARBON
          CARBON            FOAM         (your way)
        PRE-FILTER       PRE-FILTER 

Thanks,  Jay

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: luke@tfs.com (Luke Matam)
Subject: Raising pH via Sodium Bicarbonate
Organization: TRW Financial Systems
Distribution: rec.aquaria 
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 22:57:32 GMT

Sometime ago (less than 2 weeks) someone on this BB was wondering if he/she
could use Sodium Bicarbonate to increase the pH. Recently I was flipping
through "Aquarium Atlas" by Dr. Rudiger Riehl, and in it he pointed out
that this indeed could be used to raise the pH. Further more he suggested
using distilled water for reducing hardness of water.

-- 
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| These are my opinions and that too only at this instant in time.            |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Luke S Matam                                            luke@tfs.com        |
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: reidmp@athena.mit.edu (Reid M. Pinchback)
Subject: [M] UV Sterilizer opinions wanted
Reply-To: reidmp@athena.mit.edu
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 20:06:43 GMT


Ok folks, I'd like to hear opinions on the following UV sterilizer
questions that I have:

	1. What are good brands of sterilizers to use?
	2. What are brands of sterilizers that I should avoid?
	3. How much wattage is needed for what kind of tank conditions?
	4. Do they really make a difference in tank conditions?

I'm about to set up a small (20-30 gal) salt-water tank (not a reef tank).
It'll basically be a fish-only tank, but I'll probably have a few inverts
creep in over time.

I'd prefer hearing opinions from folks who have actually used them...
I've read the assorted magazine and catalog adds myself, so there isn't
much point in hearing that material regurgitated from folks who haven't
used them.

Thanx in advance!

-- 
  Reid M. Pinchback
  Faculty Liaison
  Academic Computing Services, MIT
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: dhiggs@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (General Protection Fault)
Subject: Re: Sea shells in aquarium?
Organization: is the refuge of the unimaginative!
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 18:55:28 GMT


In article <1992Sep1.182957.5561@fs7.ece.cmu.edu> rajesh@maruti.ece.cmu.edu (Ra
jesh H. Zele) writes:
+I have kept some sea water shells (ones you find on the beach)
+in my 20 gallon aquarium. Recently, I observed some holes in some of
+these shells. Do u think they disintegrate.. dissolve in water?
+Are they harmful to fish?
+    Thanx...
+
+Rajesh

Many, if not all, marine shells will actually dissolve or disintegrate in fresh
water.  If you have the appropriate test kits you'll also discover that your 
carbonates are through the roof and your pH readings will be buffered.

Keith.
-- 
D.K.Higgs  DATA+@osu.edu  a.k.a  dhiggs@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu _____   __o
Ohio State University Libraries, Acquisitions Department      -------    -\<,
Continuation Acquisition Division                              ------ ( )/ ( )
~~(614)292-6314~~~~~~fax(614)292-2015~~~~~~~~~~\_________/~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: jartsu@vipu.hut.fi (Jartsu)
Subject: Re: Suggestions for a Long, Short Tank
Followup-To: rec.aquaria
Reply-To: Jari.Lehto@hut.fi
Organization: Helsinki University of Technology, Finland
Date: 28 Aug 92 17:13:19

In article <1992Aug28.040614.8996@cbnewse.cb.att.com> squizzy@cbnewse.cb.att.com (laura.h.fitzhenry) writes:

> So the question remains, what to do with this unusually long, short
> tank which measures 48"x12"x12" (33 gallons).  We have considered
> using it for a freshwater catfish-only tank, a marine fish-only tank,
> or possibly for a semi-reef setup with one or two fish.

Forget the idea of marine tank, 33 gallons (128 liters) is too small
to make a nice and well-working marine setup. Of course it can be
done, but it is not reasonable. 
Instead, if you are planning to make this 55 gallon "main tank" a
livebearer exclusive (you still must have a cleaner or caretaker to
clean the bottom), it would be very reasonable to use this "bonus
tank" as a breeding tank. No plants, no driftwood, no rocks, maybe
some Jawa moss, thin layer of med.size gravel on the bottom and if you
want to have easier maintenance, put a RUGF under the gravel and a
powerful enough canister filter to create a strong current through the
gravel to keep it cleand and a second output with optional aerator.
The tank is also large enough to be separated to two compartments with
a fine net or transparent (acrylic etc.) wall with one large hole
covered with fine net allowing the water to circulate, for separating
the sexes to prevent premature pregnancies. Otherwise you will have
lots of trouble to ensure that you baby livebearers reach their
adulthood...

> One drawback, of course is the fact that the tank is so low to the
> ground.  This makes maintenance more challenging and probably rules 
> out certain canister-type filters.

The type I just described will definitely be easy to maintain even in
you situation.
And for example Eheim canisters have their input at the bottom of the
filter, they will work fine.

> What would you do with a long, short tank that is close to the ground
> and has about fourteen inches, or so, of clearance at the top?  Moving
> it to a separate stand is not an option since floor space is limited.

As said, well enough for a breeding tank.


> 			-Steve Singlar
> 	           singlar@cbnewse.cb.att.com
> 			AT&T Bell Labs
> 			Naperville, IL


--
* Jari Lehto     * Voice 90-387939    *   Email Jari.Lehto@hut.fi   *
* Tenavatie 19 A * Fax +358 0 8735916 * fwd -> s37837k@saha.hut.fi  *
* 00760 HELSINKI * "There is always room for music (Gospel & synth) *
* Finland	 * and for love & friendship. And of course Atari." *

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: jartsu@vipu.hut.fi (Jartsu)
Subject: Re: [F] Setup for plants and fish
Reply-To: Jari.Lehto@hut.fi
Organization: Helsinki University of Technology, Finland
	<1992Aug26.161628.19094@kong.gsfc.nasa.gov>
	<BtLy2r.n2w@news.cso.uiuc.edu>
	<JARTSU.92Aug27015657@vipunen.nntp.hut.fi>
	<BtMoMy.8EB@news.cso.uiuc.edu>
Date: 27 Aug 92 13:46:38

In article <BtMoMy.8EB@news.cso.uiuc.edu> ffujita@s.psych.uiuc.edu (Frank Fujita) writes:

> I received a letter saying to try hornwort, for opposite reasons, as in
> it grows faster than the goldfish can eat it.  Let me ask more politely,
> I have tried several types of plants, several people have told me that
> goldfish eat *all* plants.  I am going to try Hornwort, based on a
> specific suggestion, however, I am not going to try every hard leaved
> plant--Please make a specific suggestion (preferably if you have that
> specific plant in your tank with your goldfish).

> Sorry for the tone in my earlier post, 

> Frank

Well, it is up to you, if you want to have the plants to feed the
goldfish or decorate the tank. My opinion is to have 3-5 different
species to fill both purposes, at least this way you can see which the
fish like best and which last longer.
I have no clue about english names for these, but I'll give you
latin... You can try almost everything you find from Cryptocoryne or
Bacopa family. From both you can find species that are quite tough and
easy to take care. Also they should be easy to ge there, because
members of both family can easily be found from lakes, ponds and
rivers of southern Canada and whole USA except florida and southern
california. Altough from Florida you could find many swamp and lake
plants that fit to tropical aquarium more than well.
Tell me what you can find, and how they do in your tank.
BTW, I haven't had any goldfish for few years now. I began with them
and I don't want to get them again, they need their own large tank and
they are too messy...


--
* Jari Lehto     * Voice 90-387939    *   Email Jari.Lehto@hut.fi   *
* Tenavatie 19 A * Fax +358 0 8735916 * fwd -> s37837k@saha.hut.fi  *
* 00760 HELSINKI * "There is always room for music (Gospel & synth) *
* Finland	 * and for love & friendship. And of course Atari." *
From: colorado@venus.next.com (Delia Colorado (Temp))
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Sharks
Date: 21 Aug 92 20:20:18 GMT

> I am about to start my first salt water tank and need any advice  
you all
> can give me on keeping sharks.  I am about two weeks away from  
getting a
> leopard shark and will keep it in a 30 gallon tank for about two  
months,
> the shark will only be about 8" long when I get it and I will be  
getting
> a 180 gal tank in about two months.          
> 
I would like to add some other fish. What types of fish would do well  
and not pester the shark > 
> For all those people who are sure to tell me that a shark is going  
to be
> too hard for a first salt water tank, do not go on! I am not  
looking for
> anyones permission to get a shark! I need advice here not approval.

Well Bob, you don't mention whether or not your tanks are going to be  
cycled by the time that you add your shark.  You should make sure  
that the tanks are cycled-- the shark will not tolerate any ammonia  
or nitrite outburst.  Let's suppose they are not-- you could start to  
cycle the tank with a 3" or so trigger, and once the tank is cycled  
(2 months or so) you can put the shark in, and transport the trigger  
into the 180g tank, so that it can start cycling that one (poor  
trigger won't get a rest, but I think it can handle it).  You should  
have a couple of fish at the least to cycle your big tank, so I would  
put a grouper in with the trigger, and maybe a puffer also (make sure  
all these fish are of good size so that they are not eaten by one  
another).  Other fish to try later on are wrasses, parrot fish,  
hawkfish...  

You didn't say either what type of temperature you're planning for  
these tanks.  Leopard sharks will prefer cooler waters, so you might  
want to plan on going as low as you can go without hurting the other  
fish, I would say about 70F.  You will have to experiment to see if  
they are ok in this temp. If the shark doesn't like it, you might  
have to resort to a chiller, or no heater at all, and getting rid of  
the rest of the fish.

Leopard sharks eat almost anything meaty- I know they like frozen  
krill, among other things (squid, scallops, feeders, etc.)  As for  
decoration, I would suggest making some caves with large pieces of  
rock for the grouper to hide, but you probably don't want to have  
much stuff in there-- remember that the more stuff you have the less  
space for the fish to swim in.  

Please keep in mind that 180g is not going to be enough for this  
shark (and some of the other fish), and that eventually you will have  
to get rid of him if you want to do him good. 
Good luck--
 Delia
From: thk@tyres.asd.sgi.com (Tom Kong)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: (M) rapid drop of calcium.
Date: 1 Sep 92 21:02:16 GMT
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc.



On 8/10/92, I measured the calcium concentration of my
office tank for the first time (380ppm).  Since then
I've switched my salt from Instant Ocean to Reef Crystals,
and have been replacing about 10 to 15% every week.
Today I measured my calcium concentration to be under
150ppm.  Any idea of why it dropped so much?  There hasn't
been any change in livestock, and the only hardware change
has been the addition of MH lighting a week ago.

All I noticed is that the hammer coral just doesn't seem
happy, while the elegance and the frogspawn are looking
very good especially since adding the MH light.  I also
noticed that the growth of coraline algae seem to have stopped,
and the small amounts of halimeda seem to be dying or dead.

Water quality is otherwise good (0 NH3, 0 NO2, 3ppm NO3).

I don't want to start adding CaCl2 yet since I had trouble keeping
KH up and keeping macroalgaes alive if I add CaCl2.

Is dropping from 380 to <150ppm in three weeks common in a tank
with no calcium additives other than via water change?

Thanks,
/tom
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:7129 alt.aquaria:4907
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria


*    I have a tiny goldfish about 1.5' long. I got him just last week,
*    For first few days, he was highly active, sucking up the gravel in 
*    my 20 gallon tank,.. He seemed to like it there,.. 
*    	Now from yesterday, he looks quiet, doesn't eat.. steadily
*    swiming at one place. Also there is something white around his face..
*    may be some kind of fungus..I have now kept him in isolated fish bowl
*    with bubbler... Does anybody have any diagnosis to help my goldfish?

Sounds like fungus.  New tank?  Not "cycled" yet?  Do a water change.
Add 1/4 teaspoon of salt per gallon of water.  If the fish is heavily
covered with the fungus or doesn't improve very soon after the water
change put a teaspoon of salt in a jar of water and put the fish in
it for 5 minutues or so.  Make sure your filter is working and do
water changes and gravel vacuums every week or two.  How big is the
tank?  

Frank Ball   1UR-M          frankb@hpsad.sad.hp.com
Hewlett Packard   
1212 Valley House Drive     (707) 794-4168 work  (707) 538-3693 home
Rohnert Park CA 94928-4999  KC6WUG Seca 750 XT350 IT175 DoD#7566 I'm the NRA.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: bruceg@Cadence.COM (Bruce Gustifson)
Subject: Re: POWER FILTERS
Organization: Cadence Design Systems, Inc.
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 20:23:22 GMT

In article <1992Aug19.202218.1@vaxb.acs.unt.edu> ig30@vaxb.acs.unt.edu writes:
>I am considering purchasing several power filters and would like to hear your
>opinions and experiences with WHISPER power filters and AQUA CLEAR power
>filters. I am particularly interested about reliabily, ease of use and
>maintainance, regarding these brands. I am also interested in other brands you
>feel are superior to the above mentioned.
>
>Thanks in advance
>
>
>Ruvan
>
>IG30@VAXB.ACS.UNT.EDU
  I have 2 whisper (200's I believe), and I like them very much. One
thing I like about them is that ALL the water passes through the 
filtering medium, as there is no way for it to go around it.

************************************************************************
"Would you believe it if you     |  Pepsi ad campaign in Thailand;
saw it with your own eyes?"      | Come alive with the Pepsi Generation
   Asked the woman               |    In Thai translates to:
"That depends"                   | Pepsi will raise your ancestors
    Replied I                    |	from the dead.
***********************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: shane@psych.psy.uq.oz.au (Shane Brown)
Subject: Glass Fiber Noodles ?
Followup-To: rec.aquaria
Organization: University of Queensland. Oz.
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 01:02:48 GMT


G'Day folks .
    While I was visiting the not-so-local Fish depot, I had my curiosity
piqued by a new *wonder of science* bio-filtration media they were
selling. The ad blurb described the media as a type of 
compressed glass fibre product ...the things looked very much like
largish ceramic noodles, but seemed to be more porous. The 
manufacturers claims included the usual ammonia to nitrate cycle stuff
via bacteria colonization, as well as conversion of nitrates themselves !
    Great stuff right ? The kick is however, that they were (AUS) $ 49.95
per 300 grams ( $ 1.00 AUS = approx   $ 0.73 US ). Naturally the 
product was imported (isn't everything). Now, I know that I haven't
made this easy for people since I can't remember the name of the
product (and don't feel like cycling twenty clicks again to find out),
but has anyone had any experience, or know anything about, these
things ? The helpful guy in the shop said he had good reports from
salt freaks, who seemed to be happy with the stuff. His theory was that
if you put the noodles in a steady, low flow situation, 
anaerobic action was possible given the porousness of the media.
    Any backup, refutation or general comment most welcome !

Cheers, Shane.

p.s. Me, buy these things ? Hell, I still use a UG     8).

(o  ) (o  )      ( o ) ( o )      (  o) (  o)  -------------------~
...AND KIDS, FEEL FREE TO       Shane's Opinion: Guaranteed to be ~
   TRY THIS AT HOME !!          worthless or you pay DOUBLE !     ~
-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_ ~_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-~