HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: NYW bashing; was 'HOMETIME'
Date: 27 Jan 93 16:46:27 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

They are getting hoodwinked, then.  Norm always plops a strip of red tape
over the manufacturer name (check it out on a closeup).  Of course, all us
tool junkies know the brands by the color of the casings ;-).

Dave
-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
"I look back with some satisfaction on what an idiot I was when I was 25,
 but when I do that, I'm assuming I'm no longer an idiot." - Andy Rooney
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: scot@fc.hp.com (Scot Heath)
Subject: Re: Electric motor brakes?
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 16:01:47 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Fort Collins Site
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.8 PL6]

Chris Lewis (clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca) wrote:

: Universal motors can be stopped dead by the simple expedient of
: shorting together the motor leads (after disconnecting from the
: power!). This can be done in a brute-force way by using a 1pdt
: switch.  Common terminal attached to one lead of the motor.
: One terminal goes to power, and  the other goes to the other motor
: wire.  Though, turning it off could be rather violent, so you might
: want to try a centre-off switch, and/or a power resistor in series
: with the shorting terminal to ease the braking action.  You'll need
: heavy duty motor-rated switches for this - the current surge is
: NASTY.
: 
: There was a construction article about this MANY years ago in Mechanics
: Illustrated (or some such).  It does work.  But the design, if I
: remember rightly, was intended for lighter motors like hand drills.
: 
: Might work with induction motors too.
: 
: [The reason it works is then when you switch a motor off it acts
: as a generator while it winds down.  If you "load" this generator,
: more force is required to turn the armature.  Shorting the generator
: represents a very large load, and the motor stops VERY quickly.
: If you put a resistor in that's roughly the same value as the
: motor's operating impedance, it'll stop in same amount of time (within
: a factor of two or three) that it takes to start.]
: 

This is all sort of true.  A permanent magnet motor will behave as
described.  To act as a generator, a field needs to be present and while
there will be some residual magnetism in the rotor/stator of a universal
motor, the amount is much smaller than when line voltage is applied and is
also an undetermined quantity since the motor is switched off at who knows
where in the current waveform.

Induction motors are somewhat a different story but not much.  They
essentially have their rotor leads shorted all the time so the amount of
residual magnetism in the stator has some effet on them as is but shorting
the leads together would cause a small amount more torque to stop the
motor.

All this stuff is time dependant.  If you were to instantaneously
disconnect the line from an induction motor and short its leads, it would
have big torque slowing it down while the current decayed.  Big motors have
been damaged by power company fast reclosures (a device which opens to clear a
momentary fault and then closes again) since under load, the induction
motor slows down quickly but has plenty of residual current in the rotor.
When line voltage is re-applied, the motor exerts lots and lots of torque to 
speed back up, has resulted in broken shafts.

-Scot
Xref: sparky rec.woodworking:10050 misc.consumers.house:17263
From: boykin@gte.com (Joseph Boykin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Shopsmith Mark V
Date: 22 Jan 93 18:44:33 GMT
Reply-To: boykin@gte.com
Followup-To: rec.woodworking
Distribution: rec
Organization: GTE Laboratories

In article <MACRAKIS.93Jan14110251@lakatos.osf.org>, macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis) writes:
|> In article <1993Jan13.182619.2402@acuson.com> worth@acuson.com (Douglas Worth) writes:
|> 
|>    Being a new home owner I final have space to set up a workshop.
|>    ...The otherday I saw the ShopSmith Mark V system...

|> The Shopsmith is generally considered to be an excellent drill press
|> (horizontal/vertical), sander, and lathe, and a mediocre table saw.
|> Many of the add-on attachments (band saw, jointer) cost more than an
|> equivalent freestanding tool for equal functionality.  The big
|> disadvantage of the Shopsmith and most other multi-purpose tools is
|> that changing function is time-consuming.  On the other hand, they do
|> take very little space.

I have a Mark V model 510 (the larger version) and am very satisified
with it.  My shop is about 12 * 12 and between the Shopsmith, a planer,
scrollsaw, work benches, etc. etc. it is cramped.  Having separate
units would never fit.

Buying a piece of equipment because it fits is the wrong basis
of how to buy things.  I agree that as a table saw the Shopsmith
is not as good as others, but it is more than adequate for even
an "advanced woodworker".

I do alot of wood-turning and I like the fact that I can change
speeds without moving belts around.  Since rounding/shaping/sanding
are generally done at different speeds, this is a big win.

As for changeover... Alot of people make this complaint, but I'm
not sure why.  I can convert from any one tool to another in about
20 seconds.  Considering that you spend alot more time than that
setting up fence distance, blade height, whatever, this is meaningless.

Overall I like my Shopsmith and would readily buy another.
And besides, it fits in my shop...

Joe Boykin
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Heavy Duty Griz...
From: <DXR8@psuvm.psu.edu>
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 12:32:41 EST
Organization: Penn State University

I'm in the process of having a house built.  I was going to have a 3 car
garage built so I could setup a nice workshop in it.  When the builder looked
at the property, he said I needed to put a basement on the house.  Ok, forget
the 3 car garage, I'm getting 900 square feet of workshop instead (Damn!).
Anyways, I followed with great interest which table saws the folks here on the
net recommend.  I also own a fine Craftsman and will be trading up for some
better quality.  Grizzly Tools is about a two hour drive for me and I have
been considering there G1023, the $895 "Ultimate Table Saw".  Most of the
traffic on the net concerning Grizzly saws seemed to be the cheaper version
and it would require an upgrade to the fence.  Has anyone purchased/used the
G1023, and can they give me any comments, good or bad?

Thanks...

Brian

Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Thu, 21 Jan 1993 09:56:53 EST
From:         Doug Cutler <UNCDWC@UNCVM1.OIT.UNC.EDU>
Subject:      Hock plane irons.

   Hock plane irons can also be gotten from WoodWorkers Supply, don't
 have a catalog at work so I cannot quote price.


  Doug. Cutler                       Office of Information Technology,
  VM Systems Programmer              University of North Carolina.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: guy@slustl.slu.edu (Guy Smith)
Subject: Re: Laminate Bond that Didn't
Organization: Saint Louis University  Saint Louis, MO
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 20:14:50 GMT

In article <8090025@hpfcdc.fc.hp.com> bennett@hpfcdc.fc.hp.com (Steve Bennett) writes:
>I recently applied a piece of plastic laminate to a small table top. For
>some reason (maybe the shop wasn't quite warm enough?), I didn't get a good
>bond on one of the edges. I can peal it back about a half inch along that side.
>
>What's the recommended technique to fix this sort of problem? Any suggestions
>would be gratefully accepted!
I had a similar problem with a commercially produced laminate counter.
As it was still under warranty, they came out and fixed it. They just
cleaned out the dried contact cement and injected yellow glue and clamped
it. Still ok one year later.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bryan@isrc.sandia.gov (Jon R Bryan)
Subject: Re: workbench height
Organization: Sandia National Labs, Org. 1600, Albq., NM
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 16:24:53 GMT

steveo@think.com (stephen anthony) writes:
: 
: I'm 6'2", and plan to use the bench primarily for hand tool work. Planing,
: shooting, dovetailing, etc. I will probably be doing some router work
: also. So, what height is appropriate? I believe (I don't have the plans
: in front of me) that Frid's bench is 33" high. I think (but am not sure)
: that this would be too low. Would 35" be more appropriate? 34"? Other?
: Maybe 1 or 2 inches doesn't matter all that much, as long as it's in a 
: reasonable range?
: 
Check out Frank Klausz' "Dovetail a Drawer" video.  You'll be amazed.
He recommends setting the height of the bench so that your palms lie
flat on the top with your arms hanging at your sides.  It really comes
down to what you feel comfortable with, though.

I'm 6'4" and my bench is 39" tall.  That's high, but I like it that way.
If I have to stoop at all my back starts to bother me.  If you start
high you can make the bench shorter later on.

-- 
Jon R. Bryan	(505) 844-2015	<=>	bryan@isrc.sandia.gov
Sandia National Laboratories, Intelligent System Sensors and Controls
From: djt@perkin.caltech.edu (David Thompson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: thickness planer minimum (thinness planer?)
Date: 22 Jan 1993 16:24 PST
Organization: California Institute of Technology
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: perkin.caltech.edu
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    

I used to plane wood to 1/8-inch in a Ryobi 10" planer (I don't remember
the model number) without a carrying board. On good, solid, stable wood like
hard maple or ebony, no problems, but I had a 1/8-inch thick board of 
bubinga that pretty much exploded in the planer (no injuries). I guess that
particular board was too brittle to stand up to the vibrations in the planer.

A carrying board seems like a good idea to use on thin boards. A note, though:
I believe the carrying boards have a step cut in them, to support the back
end of the thin board as it runs through the planer (ASCII pic follows).

                                    (thin board goes here)----------
		   ---------------------------------------         |
<= feed direction  |	carrying board			           |
		   -------------------------------------------------

Also, I'm not sure I'd want to do this without hot-gluing the thin board 
down, or something like that. No, I haven't actually used this method, just
my $0.02 worth of observations.

	**************  HELP!  ******************
Would someone on rec.ww who works on a VMS machine (if there are any left 
out there, astronomy is a bit behind the times!) please contact me via
e-mail, I have a couple of newsnet questions I can't seem to figure out.
Thanks - I'm at djt@deimos.caltech.edu.

Dave.
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Polycarbonate prices (was: Re: want to drill and thread holes)
Date: 24 Jan 93 16:56:09 GMT
Article-I.D.: ecicrl.4177
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <4320154@hpcc01.corp.hp.com> gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz) writes:
>clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis) writes:
>>In article <4320145@hpcc01.corp.hp.com> gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz) writes:
>>>   You want to use a little thicker material, but 3/8" ought to do it.  With
>>>   3/8" polycarbonate, you will have plenty of strength.  Also, the stuff
>>>   is does not pick up scratches like lexan or other types of acrylic.

>>Just a slight nit.  Polycarbonate != acrylic.  Different type of plastic..
>>Lexan is one trade name for polycarbonate.  Plexiglass is a trade name for
>>acrylic.
>>

>  Just a slight nit:  I said that polycarbonate ("the stuff") does not
>  pick up scratches like lexan or other types of acrylic.  The meaning
>  of this sentence is that polycarbonate is not acrylic.

Well Paul,

"Other types of acrylic" can legitimately be parsed to refer to
polycarbonate, lexan or both.  You get to choose your mistake from
three possible interpretations, all three of which are incorrect.

I did assume your sentence to mean what you say in your followup w.r.t.
polycarbonate != acrylic.  My first three sentences are making sure.

But, again, Lexan is not acrylic either.  And doesn't scratch like
acrylic.

If you hadn't had the phrase "other types of", I'd only be able to remark
that Lexan doesn't scratch any worse than any other kind of polycarbonate.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Vacuum hose reducers
Date: 25 Jan 93 04:24:05 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

Michelle Stone writes:
>>I am surprised anyone would admit to owning anything Sears after the
>>beating I took a few weeks ago about my Sears tools.
>
>I admit that I have an old Sears router.  I am going to keep it until
>I can afford a new one.  It works and turns the bits.  For a small
>powered tool, it's okay.

Yeah, me too.  I swiped mine from my dad, and he hasn't asked for it
back yet (he has been using my borrowing his tools for an excuse to buy
himself new stuff).  I also have a B&D that I picked up cheap (so I
could leave the Sears in the table).

I do find that the better bits (carbide, and not just carbide *tipped* -
I chipped one such "tip" off on some oak the other day) allows me to get
a lot more mileage out of these routers.

Dave

-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
"I look back with some satisfaction on what an idiot I was when I was 25,
 but when I do that, I'm assuming I'm no longer an idiot." - Andy Rooney
From: gregt@hfglobe.intel.com (Greg Tollefson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Forstner bits...
Date: 28 Jan 93 03:20:32 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Intel Corporation

In article <21671@ucdavis.ucdavis.edu> stuarts@jeeves.ucdavis.edu (Stuart Staniford-Chen) writes:
>In article <1993Jan19.194623.25188@kodak.kodak.com>  
>kroth@sunshine.Kodak.COM (David Kroth) writes:
>> 
>> 
>> Anyone ever used a forstner bit in a hand held electric drill?
>> What were the results like? 
>> 
>> I need to drill a 1 3/8" hole for a clock movement (a mini clock
>> from Clockit).  I am willing to spend $20 for a forstner bit
>> but not $300 for a drill press.  If I buy the bit, will it even
>> be useable?
>> 
>> Dave KRoth
>> kroth@kodak.com
>
>I've used a 1" Forstner bit in a regular 3/8" electric drill on a number  
>of occasions.  It works ok.  You have to press pretty hard to get it to  
>cut, but it leaves a smooth hole.  I haven't had noticeable problems with  
>the bit wandering, but my drill has one of those little spirit levels on  
>it and I make some effort to keep the cut going straight with that.  I  
>would guess that with a 1 3/8" bit it will work, but you had best be  
>prepared to clamp the work to a low surface and lean on the drill pretty  
>hard.  May not be good for the drill's bearings.  If you have a hand-brace  
>that will likely work a lot better.
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Stuart Staniford-Chen		:  stuarts@jeeves.ucdavis.edu
>Department of Physics		:  NeXT-Mail cheerfully accepted.
>UC Davis, CA 95616, USA.	:  regular email is fine too.


Also don't forget hole saws, like the kind Starret makes.  Hole saws
have centering drills that make them fairly easy to control.  ALso they 
are a lot cheaper that forstner bit.  This assumes that you want to 
drill a through hole, and not a flat bottomed hole


-- 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking
From: pngai@adobe.com (Phil Ngai)
Subject: Re: want to drill and thread holes
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 20:15:40 GMT

In article <4155@ecicrl.ocunix.on.ca> clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis) writes:
>Rather than threading the thing, if you always use it on a flat surface,
>simple steel pins would suffice.  Or with a bit of metal work, maybe
>you could insert spring retainers in them and use them like miniature
>bench dogs.

I should probably give an example of what I want to do. For quick and
dirty projects, like putting together a rectangle with screws, for a
baby's high chair, I want to take the four sticks and hold them in a
rectangle, then drill pilot holes and put screws in. This would mean
having two or four (with only two, I'd have to do the corners one by
one) "alignment pieces" bolted to the base. In addition, I'd like to
mount clamps on the alignment pieces to hold the work while I drill and
screw. So steel pins might not resist the vertical forces from the
clamps. Perhaps that's an argument for horizontal clamps.

Anyway, if this all seems vague and not completely thought out,
that's because it is. Suggestions are appreciated. Also, I find
myself unable to reply to some people because of broken return
addresses so I just want to say thanks to everyone who has offered
ideas.

-- 
My opinions are my own.
From: millios@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (william.l.millios)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: sexist salespeople
Date: 26 Jan 93 20:53:45 GMT
Organization: AT&T

In article <1993Jan25.040017.23145@informix.com> davek@informix.com (David Kosenko) writes:
>Michelle Stone writes:
>>
>>I am often completely ignored when I am looking at power tools and
>>other construction type stuff.  I hate it.
>
>If it is of any consolation to you, let me assure you that this particular
>knife cuts both ways.  Almost universally, whenever I am shopping for one
>or more of: curtains, bed linen, towels, and furniture, I am either treated
>like someone who keeps my taste in a damp, unlit portion of my anatomy, or
>more commonly, like someone who would go into anaphaletic shock if I was
>shown anything with flowers on it.

I get the same treatment when shopping in fabric stores.  If I ask
a question, the salesperson almost invariably looks around for my
wife, who I am presumably asking the question for.

That's if I can get any service at all.

Bill
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-Vmsmail-To: SMTP%"WOODWORK%IPFWVM.BITNET@pucc.Princeton.EDU"
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 26 Jan 1993 10:02:08 -0700
From:         BOULAN@TECHNET.NM.ORG
Subject:      Re: Hey! Lets have a survey....

Well, aside from the not so exciting run of wooden toys (trains, cars, trucks,
& articulated toys) found in so many books, I have been busying myself with
building exhibits for the local Children's Museum. This has been interesting
for me because it requires a curious mix of furniture building techniques as
well as inventive solutions to accomplish the results needed from the exhibit.
Almost all of the exhibits are interactive in some form and need to incorporate
not only functionality but an incredible amount of durability. To date I have
built Zeotropes, Videospheres, Castles, Communications exhibits, code tables,
giant kaledescopes, invisible slide exhibits, railroad displays.
Xref: sparky rec.woodworking:10196 misc.consumers.house:17400
From: ss@ll.mit.edu (Stuart Scharf)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Hardwood Floor repair
Keywords: hardwood floors
Date: 26 Jan 93 19:57:40 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: MIT Lincoln Laboratory

In article <1993Jan22.160849.13166@slustl.slu.edu> guy@slustl.slu.edu (Guy Smith) writes:
>In article <1993Jan21.215016.11711@acuson.com> worth@acuson.com (Douglas Worth) writes:
>>- One of the previous owners decided that they did not like part of 
>>the hardwood floor and glued linoleum (sp?) down to it. What would be
>>the best way to get it off?
>
>The easiest way to get the linoleum up without damaging the underlying
>wood is probably heat. A heat gun should work ok (be careful not to
>overheat or you will scorch the underlying wood). I've heard of people
>using irons for such things as lifting single tiles. You will then have
>to remove the remaining adhesive. Methylene Chloride stripper will probably
>be required and expect to refinish the wood underneath.
>
>>expecting to replace some of the boards in this section. The floor is
>>2" oak strip and I do not think that it is tongue and groove because
>>there is lots of nails in it. Is it possible to do patch work like this
>>or are we crazy? After we repair the damaged section we are planning to 
>
>I can't speak to your sanity (I own an old house after all) but spot
>replacement of strip flooring is certainly possible. Check back issues
>of Old House Journal. It has been discussed there but I don't recall
>the issue.

Check with a knowledgeable person on the type of linoleum you have glued down.  
I am told that most older linoleum floors contain asbestos in their backing.
Removing such might not be advised.

(My kitchen floor was replaced by installing new plywood over the old
linoleum and the new linoleum over the plywood to avoid removing the old
material).
-- 
Stuart L. Scharf         |
MIT Lincoln Laboratory   |
ss@ll.mit.edu            |
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: workbench height
Date: 27 Jan 93 16:51:41 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

stephen anthony writes:
>
>In thinking about the design of a workbench for myself, I quickly decided 
>on the width and length. However, the height dimension seems a little 
>more difficult to figure out. I thought I'd see what net.wisdom had to
>offer for ideas.
>
>I'm 6'2", and plan to use the bench primarily for hand tool work. Planing,
>shooting, dovetailing, etc. I will probably be doing some router work
>also. So, what height is appropriate? I believe (I don't have the plans
>in front of me) that Frid's bench is 33" high. I think (but am not sure)
>that this would be too low. Would 35" be more appropriate? 34"? Other?
>Maybe 1 or 2 inches doesn't matter all that much, as long as it's in a 
>reasonable range?

I make all my workbenches and tool benches the same height as my tablesaw.
In fact, my ultimate goal is to have all "tabled" tools at this height (the 
bandsaw is the only one that isn't).  That way, whenever I have a long or
large piece of wood or furniture, I have lots of options for supporting it.
Also avoids having to readjust the outfeed roller I use.  BTW, the height is
about 34.5 inches.

Dave
-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
"I look back with some satisfaction on what an idiot I was when I was 25,
 but when I do that, I'm assuming I'm no longer an idiot." - Andy Rooney
Xref: sparky rec.woodworking:10343 misc.consumers.house:17491