HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: steve@celia.UUCP (Steve Tyree)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: (M)Spawning of Trachyphyllia Geoffroyi
Keywords: reef breeding stony corals marine
Date: 6 Apr 92 18:03:49 GMT
Reply-To: celia!steve@usc.edu (Steve Tyree)
Organization: Rhythm & Hues, Inc., Hollywood

In article <1992Apr5.110458.17671@gbrmpa.gov.au> jamieo@gbrmpa.gov.au (Jamie Oliver) writes:
>
>I hate to say this, but I'd bet my boots that you have a bloom of prtotozoans
>rather than developing planulae. The size is on the small side for planulae, 
>and there's no way you can get 50,000 from only 500 eggs.  Also, based on my 
>experience raising larvae from other families, the planulae start to settle
>out on the sides of the container in a big way after about five days... 
>that time has well and truly passed.  Another thing working against the 
>possiblility that they are planulae is that none of the planulae that I hvae
>worked with have ever shown sides of feeding.  I've read one report of a 
>temperate coral planulae feeding but never any of the tropical reef corals.
>
>From everything you have written, I would say that your eggs disintegrated
>shortly after spawning.
>
 Jamie, Thanks for the response and references on spawning. It looks like I
definitely have some kind of protozoan bloom, but I havent given up hope yet.
Its possible that the planulae were hidden in the protozoan bloom. Also their
may be two types of protozoan or more. Some have pointy ends and eat, their 
are thousands of these. Others have round ends and are more eliptical, I have
hundreds of these. Last night and for the next couple of days I will search
all containers holding the eggs to see what else I have. I do have some small
semitransparent disks in one or more containers. One container has way to many
of these and they appear to be budding more semitransparent disks. These disk
are on the walls of the container but I need to look at one under the micro-
scope. In most containers the protozoan blooms have crawled up the sides. One
tank has groups of protozoan turning blackish. Under a microscope they appear
to be either transforming or growing into more rounded shapes. Some protozoan
start swimming in tight circles and form spheres. Lots of life forms to check
out. 
 It appears that the micro world of our reef aquaria is just as fascinating
as the macro world. Hopefully I will be able to find the time to read one of
the references you gave. This might help me in my continuing search.

Steve Tyree - Practicing Reef Breeder

 ps - Its possible that the conditions of the rearing tanks are slowing the 
      planulae normal life cycle. Like I said before, I wasnt set up to 
      handle coral eggs at the time. I will be more prepared next time...
From: jartsu@hut.fi (Jartsu)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Any experiences about Siporax filter media?
Date: 13 Apr 92 01:42:31 GMT
Reply-To: Jari.Lehto@hut.fi
Organization: Helsinki University of Technology, Finland


Some time ago I rebuilt an old 250 liter tank and among many other
things changed the filter media of the Fluval 203 canister from
regular foam to Siporax glass-tube media. The manufacturer promises
that one liter of Siporax is capable to keep 200 liters of water in
excellent condition if the tank is in good condition. Both marine and
fresh water, all filter types, trickle, canister etc. Siporax is told
to be able to offer good 'home' for both aerobic and anaerobic
bacteria and so able to reduce both nitrites and nitrates,
transforming them to gaseous nitrogen.

So far this filter media has performed well, there was no nitrite
peak, and nitrate level hasn't risen from the initial value at all. I
have a heavily planted fresh water tank with, shall we say, almost
optimum numer of fish, mainly algae eaters and bottom feeders. I used
a bacteria growth 'accelerator' when  setting up the filter, that
propably prevented the nitrite peak to occur. With 2 liters of
Siporax, enough for 400 liters of water, and I have 250, can I really
expect that even nitrate level stays almost zero as long as the filter
material stays clean enough? I have an Eheim pre-filter taking care of
this, but it is not perfect...

Any experiences? Can there really be a filter media that replaces the
need of regular water changes or at least makes the required interval
of the changes much longer? It seems so, but my tank has barely
stabilized yet, the new filter media has been in use for 6 weeks now. 


--
* Jari Lehto     * Voice 90-387939    *   Email Jari.Lehto@hut.fi   *
* Tenavatie 19 A * Fax +358 0 8735916 * fwd -> s37837k@saha.hut.fi  *
* 00760 HELSINKI * "There is always room for music (Gospel & synth) *
* Finland        * and for love & friendship. And of course Atari." *
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:3057 rec.aquaria:3869
From: kerry@is-next.umd.edu (Kerry Ogata)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: (F) Bettas in fishbowl (deja vu anyone?)
Keywords: fish torture, early death, naive
Date: 13 Apr 92 22:26:54 GMT
Organization: Comp. Sci. Ctr., Univ. of MD, College Park, MD 20742

In article <1992Apr13.033100.24277@wpi.WPI.EDU> vortex@guardian (The Biologic Entity) writes:

[in response to my previous posting saying you could keep a betta in a fish
bowl]

>No matter what, it's still rather cruel to keep bettas in fish bowl.  Just because they CAN survive in them is no reason to make them do so.  After all, I'm sure most of the people on the net can survive in really tiny rooms with bad pollution (like my do
>rm room), but there's no reason to force your pets to do the
>same thing.  The best advice is to totally abolish fishbowls.  Unless you happen to have the time to kill to change the water every hour or so.

Well, from what I have heard, bettas live in the wild in small puddles of
water--similar to fish bowl size, I would guess.  No, I haven't seen them
there personally.  But I read a discussion here not too long ago that seemed
to conclude that it was perfectly fine to keep them in a small environment
with daily water changes.

I do not advocate animal cruelty. I am not a torturer of fish.  But if a fish
is most comfortable in its natural surroundings (as I've heard), and bettas
naturally live in small habitats, then I would think it would be the best
thing for the betta.  Hey, it's only my own opinion, based mostly on what I've
read on the net.
-- 
kerry@is-next.umd.edu or kogata@wam.umd.edu
From: voyager@irishmvs.cc.nd.edu (R.allen Jervis)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: (m) Anemone blues
Date: 10 Apr 92 07:19:22 GMT
Distribution: global
Organization: University of Notre Dame

I have a flower anemone that until recent weeks has looked fine. Now it
looks well, Wilted. It has moved up the glass of the tank to be right
by the light source.(basic 15w florescent) The nitrate,copper, and ph
are right on specs, the ammonia reads slightly higher than it should
according to the test kit, somewhere between perfect and nigh perfect.
(can you tell I forgot my numbers here? I believe this is due to a
recent loss of a serpent star to a vicious little domino damsel, but
that is another story.)
Its coloration was white trending to pink on the ends of the tentacles,
but now the tentacles are brownish and not fully extended. It will not
take food offered it.(a small feeder fish sold as 'rosy-red' anyone know
anything about these?) 
Feeding for the tank is a liquid invert food,
 and whatever the damsel doesn't eat, which isn't much. 
This tank was set up over 8 months ago, and has been stable. Filtration
is a power filter, and a UG filter with seperate pumps for each 
side.
Pet shop boys say:"Not much you can do for anemones, if you're gonna lose them,
you're gonna lose them..." I think the net can do better than that. I'd like
to get something else for the tank, but I want to resove this problem before
moving on.
Thanks in advance!
R.allen Jervis
University of Notre Dame
sig:My fish don't own me, really they don't! (but don't tell them I said so!)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: laurence@cco.caltech.edu (Dustin Lee Laurence)
Subject: Re: ld
Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 18:53:05 GMT

xcz13@isuvax.iastate.edu writes:

>It  occurs to me that you people missed the key word in my last post-
>DYSGRAPHIA, a learning disability,

Guilty.  Or rather, I didn't miss it, but I didn't know what it was,
and you had already said that you couldn't delete.  Since you stated
that your problem was that you couldn't delete over the modem, then
you can hardly blame people for not paying as much attention to a
change of story.

- it relates to graphic presentations of
>language. It can (as mine does) include spelling when writing or typing, slow
>sloppy or childish handwriting or an inability to master cursive writing. It
>means that one can't master rules of punctuation and grammer. =taken from
>COLLAGE STUDENTS WITH LEARNING DISABILITIES by James W. Copley, Ph.D.
>This note provided for you as you seem to be the only group who failed to
>register what was being sead.

>ELF-KIN 	no comment you wholdn't like it

That being as it may, I can read this post just fine.  Thanks.

-- 
Dustin Laurence            "Someone please stop me, before I net again."

laurence@alice.wonderland.caltech.edu
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: jimh@ultra.com (Jim Hurley)
Subject: Re: ld
Organization: Ultra Network Technologies
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 92 20:22:01 GMT

In <1992Apr13.171429.29221@news.iastate.edu> xcz13@isuvax.iastate.edu writes:

>It  occurs to me that you people missed the key word in my last post-
>DYSGRAPHIA, a learning disability, - it relates to graphic presentations of
>language. It can (as mine does) include spelling when writing or typing, slow
>sloppy or childish handwriting or an inability to master cursive writing. It
>means that one can't master rules of punctuation and grammer. =taken from
>COLLAGE STUDENTS WITH LEARNING DISABILITIES by James W. Copley, Ph.D.
>This note provided for you as you seem to be the only group who failed to
>register what was being sead.

>ELF-KIN 	no comment you wholdn't like it

This is a whole lot better. You can do it.

There are several things you might note, too.

1) There's no guarantee that your postings will make it everywhere,
or that they will arrive in the order you send them. I never saw,
at least not yet, the DYSGRAPHIA posting, unless it was written
so cryptically that I couldn't guess what it meant.

2) The aquarium newsgroups have an exceeding high signal to noise
ratio, something that no other newsgroup I've ever read can claim.
It accomplishes this by having a user group who display a great
deal of concern about the hobby, an eager willingness to help
newcomers, an endless tolerance to reading the same questions
over and over and not just reply 'read the FAQ' (replace this
with 'get a good aquarium book';-). If you mean to imply
that this group has inappropriately flamed you, I can't
agree.

Disabilities are a drag, I have a terrible dyslexia problem
myself, so I always proofread my postings carefully before I send.
It also helps me avoid sending something in haste that I may later regret.
No one is concerned with ocasionel mispellings;-)
-- 
Jim Hurley --> jimh@ultra.com  ...!ames!ultra!jimh  (408) 922-0100
Ultra Network Technologies / 101 Daggett Drive / San Jose CA 95134
From: tech@cs.ucf.edu (Tony Travaglini)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: ld
Date: 14 Apr 92 15:55:54 GMT
Organization: University of Central Florida, Orlando

In article <1992Apr13.190344.26346@col.hp.com> howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel) writes:
>In article <1992Apr13.171429.29221@news.iastate.edu> xcz13@isuvax.iastate.edu writes:
>>It  occurs to me that you people missed the key word in my last post-
>>DYSGRAPHIA, a learning disability, - it relates to graphic presentations of
>>language. It can (as mine does) include spelling when writing or typing, slow
>>sloppy or childish handwriting or an inability to master cursive writing. It
>>means that one can't master rules of punctuation and grammer. =taken from
>>COLLAGE STUDENTS WITH LEARNING DISABILITIES by James W. Copley, Ph.D.
>>This note provided for you as you seem to be the only group who failed to
>>register what was being sead.
>>
>>ELF-KIN 	no comment you wholdn't like it
>
>Perhaps it would be easier to take this/you seriously >if you used somthing other then 'ELF-KIN' to sign your
>name.  
>
>Once that is done I suggest that you get some help to
>ensure that your postings do not include long strings
>of ^H characters.  
>
>The people here have a right to be upset.  Your are 
>more or less unreadable.
>
>Howard
>-- 
> | Howard Rebel          
> | hpcsos.col.hp.com
> | Phone: 719-590-5075   
> | Fax:   719-590-5976   

If something like this gets you upset then you have other problems and
nothing this woman does will help you. Make a kill file, or glance at
the note and move on to another- both simple and obvious solutions to
this "upsetting" problem. 

As for group related stuff; I bought a Sanders AH-350 or 400 protein
skimmer for my 20h. I know it is a little big for this size tank but
I didn't think you could get too big. Right now I am using the output
tube from an old power filter (dynaflow?) to drive the water and a
Shego Mk.. air pump to run the airstones. The Shego is LOUD for those
of you who keep track of this kind of stuff. The skimmer holds at
least a gallon of water when full. The power filter is only moving
about 6 or seven gallons a day through this thing. I am not sure if
this is enough turnover. The collection cup never fills up but it does
get a yellow liquid (looks sort of like wesson oil only thinner) in
varying quantities which is emptied every day. Some days I will get a
cup or two of this liquid and then sometimes the thing will run for a
day or two and only collect a quarter cup or so. I am thinking of
changing to an Eheim 1260(?) and using the venturi on the thing to see
how a larger turnover will effect collection. Or alternately I could
just use something else to run more water through and still use the
airstones. Does anyone else have one of these things? If so perhaps
you could tell me how you use it. Are you using the venturi or
airstones? What kind of pumps are you using with it? I'm just not sure
what I am supposed to see. It never fills up with foam, just the
yellow liquid. Is this right? Suggestions are welcome. Thanks

Tony Travaglini
tech@ucf-cs.ucf.edu
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:3051 rec.aquaria:3863
From: bowden@convex.csd.uwm.edu (John W. Bowden)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: (Apistos!)  Gee.....why am I killing so many fry?
Date: 13 Apr 92 19:24:04 GMT
Article-I.D.: uwm.1992Apr13.192404.16388
Organization: University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
Originator: bowden@convex.csd.uwm.edu

Hi all,

I'm wondering if someone could give me some suggestions
regarding getting fry from eggs and keeping fry alive
on apistogrammas.  I have a nice little assortment of
apistos: agassizi, steindachneri, hippolytae (possible ortmanni?),
gibbiceps and sp "Rottpunkt."  I've even got a pair of
nijsenni coming this week from CA.

I've been having great luck spawning them and getting 100+ egg
spawns but 99% of the eggs fungus and the ones that hatch
croak......INVARIABLY!  I have zero living fry from any of my spawns.

I've got an RO unit and everything but I'm doing something drastically
wrong.  I know that many killie keepers put methylene blue in
with the eggs to prevent fungus is this common practice with apistos
too?  I'm presently trying to artificially raise my eggs since
my pairs seem to eat the spawns if i don't take them away.

Here are some concrete questions for people who have experiance
raising apistos:

What temperature regimen did you use?

What hardness water?

What pH water?

What was your egg/fry survival rate?

What techniques did you use to artificially hatch/raise eggs?


Any and all net.advice will be greatly appreciated.  I really hope
that I can get on-track because I'm afraid that my gibbiceps
and rottpunkts do not have an unlimited number of spawns left in
them (they are quite old pairs.)


Tanks to you all! :)
John
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: bcushman@lust.reed.edu (Ben Cushman)
Subject: Re: Feeding plecotemus
Organization: Reed College, Portland, OR
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 02:38:12 GMT


	I feed my plecs imitation crab meat.  I buy a package of it,  
freeze it, and feed them small pieces.  They love the stuff-- and it is  
rather economical.

					Ben Cushman
					Reed College
From: oleg@Veritas.COM (Oleg Kiselev)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: About Brine Shrimp
Date: 14 Apr 92 10:41:39 GMT
Reply-To: oleg@veritas.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Organization: Palo Alto Killifish Loft
X-Disclaimer: I speak for myself only unless explicitly indicated otherwise

frazier@oahu.cs.ucla.edu (Greg Frazier) writes:
>No, pull
>the airline out of the bottle and let it sit for 10 min.

leave the airline in -- that way you do not drag all the empty shells down
when you re-insert the line.  Disconnect the line from the pump instead.

>You also saved 2
>or 3 cups of the brine to keep the nauplii in.  Now, you invert
>the net into the brine, and there you have shrimp nauplii to
>feed to your fish.

I think this is unnecessary -- I rinse the shrimp in some fresh water and
dump brine shrimp into a cup of fresh, settled water (from my water change 
bucket), then use an eye dropper to feed the shrimp to the fish.  This keeps
the salinity of the tank water from rising.
-- 
"... i heard the droning / in the shrine
	     of the sea-monkey / palace of the brine ..." -- Pixies.
Oleg Kiselev                                             oleg@veritas.com
VERITAS Software                           ...!{apple|uunet}!veritas!oleg
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:2998 rec.aquaria:3784
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: enenkel@cs.toronto.edu (Robert Frederick Enenkel)
Subject: Re: Homebrew Aquaria (Poverty: Mother of invention!)
Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of Toronto
Distribution: na
Date: 9 Apr 92 23:33:14 GMT

(Oleg Kiselev) writes:
>dks@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (douglas.k.steckel) writes:
>
>>        (Bio)-Filtration os often discussed on the net and is the simplest to
>>        build at home. It's amazing what can be accomplished with a
>>        few 5 gal pickle buckets!
>
>It's amazing how ugly those 5 gal buckets will look, too.  

Hell, Oleg, I think they look nice!  Sorta like a commercial fish hatchery or
experimental station or something...

Robert Enenkel
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:2984 rec.aquaria:3758
From: mlp@uh.msc.edu (Mark Peterson)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Aquariums and equipment for sale
Date: 9 Apr 92 10:18:06 GMT
Article-I.D.: uc.1992Apr9.101806.26168
Organization: Minnesota Supercomputer Center


   I just posted this to misc.forsale:



   For those of you in the Minneapolis area, I have some aquariums and
equipment for sale:


   37 Gallon All Glass Aquarium - Top, light, tank, stand - $50.00

    10 Gallon Aquarium - Top, light, tank, stand - $20.00

    37 Gallon Undergravel filter - $10.00

    Eheim 2215 Canister Filter - $40.00

    Aqua-clear 300 Power Filter - $12.00

    Sanders WT-250 Protein Skimmer - $10.00

    Rena 301 Air Pump - $10.00

    Ebo-Jager 125 Watt Heater - $8.00

    Whisper Power Filter C - $4.00

    
    I also have some plants and decorations.


    I can be reached at 635 - 9548.



                                               Mark Peterson
                                               mlp@uh.msc.edu
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel)
Subject: Re: Assorted Questions .... [F] [M]
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 23:33:28 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division

In article <1992Apr7.183757.16910@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu> erno@mrcnext.cso.uiuc.edu writes:
..
>1. Can you recycle water after a water change? I change 2 gallons of water  
>every week in my 30 gallon tank and up til now I just flushed the old water.  
>It really seems like a waste though, and I thought why couldn't I just  
>recycle that water, clean it up, and put it back. So what I did was buy one  
>of the 32 gallon Rubbermaid trash cans, built a home made UG filter with  
>power head for the bottom, added some old active gravel to about 8 inches  
>deep, 

	What will feed the bacteria ?  If your aquarium is in good condition
	the UFG bio filter in the trash can will die off.  

>filled it up with water, and added an ancient Aquamaster power filter  
>with AmmoChips, Carbon, Nitrex, and a load of other chemical media.

	The AmmoChips and Nitrex are used to prop up weak bio filtration and
	may keep a bio filter from cycling properly.

> I've got  
>it sitting on my balcony covered running for two days before water changes. I  
>added more chemicals to make the water condition more like my tanks', and now  
>whenever I change water, I just take two gallons of clean water from this can  
>and exchange it with two from the aquarium. I plan on replacing half of the  
>can's water every month or so. 

	If you changed 2 gallons/week in the aquarium that would be 2*4 or
8 gallons per month water useage.  If you change 1/2 the water in the 35
gallon trash can that is 32/2 or 16 gallons per month water usage.  Water
savings are 8-16 or -8 gallons per month......

>The great thing about this setup is that the  
>pH and hardness and Nitrate levels stay virtually constant at the level where  
>I want them. It also conserves water. What do you think? 

	If you want to recycle the water use it in the first wash cycle in
	you clothes washer or better yet water plants or the lawn with it.
	The reason we do water changes is to get rid of the things that 
	filtration can not.  

>2. Why don't the aquarium magazines do any equipment testing and evaluation  
>like computer magazines? I think this is a feature that is lacking and would  
>be very beneficial. 

	IMHO a lot of what is offered to the aquarist is of little value
	and that if the mags were to be up front about it they would
	lose a lot of add revenue. 

>Imagine, ... I hate having to  
>guess if I should get an AquaClear 300 or a Whisper #3 power filter. I would  
>really like to grab a FAMA and look at the Power Filter tests to find out  
>which is more powerful and efficient and filters the water best. The  
>magazines now have too many ads and not enough good articles.

	And they would have a lot less if they followed your suggestion.
	


-- 
 | Howard Rebel          
 | hpcsos.col.hp.com
 | Phone: 719-590-5075   
 | Fax:   719-590-5976   
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: xcz13@isuvax.iastate.edu
Subject: peat sofining
Reply-To: xcz13@isuvax.iastate.edu
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames, Iowa
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 22:16:41 GMT

Whin I looked into angels (I cheacked out a book on them alone as well as
reading sections on them in uther books) It sead that you cuould replace 
one of the floss layers in a box filter with peatmoss or even beter you can
,probly, just add a box filter that contanes the peat moss to your tank. I
have run acrose this segestion for uthere fish that like soft water.

ELF-KIN	fish? fish? what fish? (inocintly with fish behind back)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria