HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: ameres@ithaca.cat.rpi.edu (Eric Ameres)
Subject: Re: Safest way to use radial arm saw?
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 16:42:08 GMT

Well, for crosscuts I've always pulled it through the wood (with the
blade's rotation, hence the potential creep towards the operator) and
finished the cut by pushing it back behind the fence.  For ripping the
wood gets pushed through the blade (against the blade's rotation hence
the potentials of kickback).

When you think about it, pushing the blade through the work does make
sense (at first ( years ago) I had to talk myself out of doing this).
With the pull method I guess the thought of designers was to create
the safest possible "at rest" position for the saw and motor.  The saw
is "out of the way" during it's most (arguably) dangerous times.
During starting and stopping the temptation to pull the work out of
the saw while the blade is slowing to a halt might cause more lost
digits with the blade between the operator and the workpiece.  

In the traditional pull method, the blades path is (again arguably)
more visible than in the push scenario.

I guess the bottom line is:  I can't see any mechanical reason for the
pull vs. push argument, but safety-wise they (the manufacturers) like
you to use the pull method.

Remember, always make sure the table is level (front to back) to
further avoid creep toward the operator.

Eric.


-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Eric Ameres,  Software Engineer                 ameres@cat.rpi.edu
New York State Center for Advanced Technology in Automation & Robotics
Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute - CII 8313, Troy, NY 12180-3590
From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 00:16:33 GMT
Subject: Re: "Rainforest Destruction Has Many Victims"
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking


Thanks for the information, Jim.  

This is why I avoid all tropical hardwoods unless they are certified to 
come from renewable origin.   Rainforest Alliance and WARP are now certifying
sources for these hardwoods, and it makes a big difference.

If you buy tropical hardwoods from a certified sustainable source, you are
HELPING the rainforests by making their preservation profitable and by 
reducing the desire of locals to slash and burn to clear land for cash crops.

If you buy tropical hardwoods from irresponsible sources, you are encouraging
these companies to continue to rape and destroy our world's resources, 
encouraging indigenous people to clear the land to sell the wood, and 
assuring yourself of future availability of ZERO.

Remember the example of Brazilian rosewood.  By only sustainably grown
tropical hardwoods, or else use North American hardwoods like oak, maple,
walnut and cherry.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: re: Jointer vs Planer - Thanks
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 18:18:08 GMT

Daniel Ouellet writes
> In article <4320097@hpcc01.corp.hp.com>, gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul  
Houtz) writes:
> |> bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds) writes:
> |> 
> |> >To my way of thinking, it's easier to make a jig to adapt another machine
> |> >to perform jointing tasks than it is to adapt another machine to perform
> |> >thickness planing tasks. That's my bottom line on this.
> |> 
> |>   Yup.  Tag Frid shows how to make a jig that turns a jointer into a
> |>   thickness planer, and I wish I had known about that before I bough
> |>   the planer.
> |> 
> 
> Can you please provide a more precise reference for this. It sounds
> quite interesting to me.

According to my Fine Woodworking index, issue #19 page 94, and issue #51.
I could not find the jig in Frid's 3 volumne hardcover book set.

The softcovers "FWW on Proven Shop Tips" & "FWW on More Proven Shop Tips"
each have a short description of a jig for this purpose as well. The first
is rather unappealing, as it requires rabbeting the boards accurately and
using those rabbets to index the thickness. 

The second uses a broad spring on the infeed table to force the wood up 
against a "bed" that is bolted to the jointer above the knives. You
adjust the thickness by adding or removing shims from the bolts, thus
raising or lowering the bed. With heavy boards you'd need a strong spring,
there's no power feed so the results may be inconsistent, and bolting and
unbolting to add/remove shims has got be a painful way to adjust thickness.

The books also discuss jigs that enable face jointing using a thickness
planer. These may be useful even if you have a jointer, since chances
are your planer is considerably wider.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Thu, 31 Dec 1992 16:53:21 -0500
From:         "Wile E. Coyote" <BBHULSEY@LIFE.UAMS.EDU>
Subject:      Ryobi Table Saw

Greetings!

Does anyone out there have any experience with the new Ryobi table saw with
the sliding table?  Sorry, I don't remember the model off the top of my head,
but I'm sure it's the only one if its kind Ryobi sells.  I'm kind of thinking
about buying a saw, and this one seems to have a lot of interesting features.
I'm concerned about how well it's constructed, accuracy, etc., though.  No one
around here has one (I'd have to mail order it if I decided to get one).  Is
this saw suitable for fine woodworking or is it more of a general contractor's
saw?  Any information appreciated.  Thanks, and have a happy new year!

.......
:  o/ : Bruce Hulsey
: <|  : Univ. of Arkansas for Medical Sciences
: / > : internet: bbhulsey@life.uams.edu
:.....: bitnet:   bbhulsey@uams
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: M19120@mwvm.mitre.org
Subject: Re: INCA 10 inch band saw
Organization: The MITRE Corporation, McLean VA 22102
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1992 14:10:10 GMT

In article <C01GqA.Iq0@boi.hp.com>
stevej@boi.hp.com (Steve Johnson) writes:
 
>
>I am interested in hearing from owners of the INCA band saw. After hearing the
>rave reviews posted here and in several mags, I ordered one as a Christmas
>present. So far I am underwhelmed, but I must say that I have only made a few
>trial cuts. Specifically:
>
>The person who took my order by phone did not speak very good english
>
>The saw was dumped in my driveway Christmas eve. I still do not know who
>delivered it. (Santa??)
>
>The box was damaged
>
This seems to be  both a supplier and delivery truck problem.  The person
I ordered mine through (Eagle tools in California - Rick ??) was very helpful
and knowledgeable.  Garret Wade also offers a support telephone number.
 
>The manual sucks! This is the most expensive tool I have ordered and the manual
I agree the manual stinks buy the Bandsaw Book by Mark Duginske.
 
>
>I did not get the fence micro-adjuster or the cool blocks I was supposed to get.
Make sure you get the micro-adjuster this is a  very useful accessory.
>
>The "balance a nickel on on edge on the table while running" test seems like
>a joke.
>
If you have excessive vibration something is wrong!  Run the saw without
the blade to help identify any problems.
 
>Will someone who has this saw please reassure me!!
>
You have purchased a fine tool. It takes time to learn how to adjust/align
any bandsaw.
 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: Eric Kasten
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Treadle lathe
Date: 23 Dec 92 04:25:18 GMT
Organization: Michigan State University
NNTP-Posting-Host: tigger.cl.msu.edu

I was wondering if anyone had any opinion on a treadle
lathes?  It's been a few years since I last used a lathe,
and I'm more accustomed to the motorized variety.  Lately
I've been contemplating constructing a treadle lathe -
I read somewhere lately that someone had switched back to
a human powered lathe from a motorized one because it gave
him greater control - and was wondering if anyone had
any thoughts on the use, construction of such a lathe?
From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 00:18:59 GMT
Subject: Re: Questions: Craftsman 100 TS and unknown 10" bandsaw
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

lombardo@taurus.cs.nps.navy.mil writes:
>
>Hi,
>  I just bought a Craftsman 100 10" table saw. This guy must weight 150lbs.
>It's model is 113.29991.  It has a ball bearing 1HP Capacitor motor, twin
>belts, one extension and a fence with two pointers for the front fence rail.
>Only one rail though, the one on the back side of the table just applies force
>directly to the back edge of the table.  This seems like a pretty descent
>saw.  I paid $150.  Can anybody comment on the reputation of this saw and
>also where I might find replacement parts?

  Not a bad saw for the price.   Good and heavy, but you might want to 
  get a Biesemeyer homeshop fence, or some other aftermarket fence for it.

  Also, 1 HP is pretty weak.   I would sell that motor or use it on the 
  bandsaw and switch to a 1.5 hp 115 single phase or a 2 hp 230v motor.
From: daniel@redwood.ppc.ubc.ca (Daniel Ouellet)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: re: Jointer vs Planer - Thanks
Date: 22 Dec 1992 17:12:44 GMT
Organization: University of B.C. Pulp & Paper Centre
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: redwood.ppc.ubc.ca

In article <4320097@hpcc01.corp.hp.com>, gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz) writes:
|> bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds) writes:
|> 
|> 
|> >To my way of thinking, it's easier to make a jig to adapt another machine
|> >to perform jointing tasks than it is to adapt another machine to perform
|> >thickness planing tasks. That's my bottom line on this.
|> 
|>   Yup.  Tag Frid shows how to make a jig that turns a jointer into a
|>   thickness planer, and I wish I had known about that before I bough
|>   the planer.
|> 

Can you please provide a more precise reference for this. It sounds
quite interesting to me.
-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Daniel Ouellet, Research Associate
Pulp and Paper Centre, University of British Columbia
2385 East Mall, Vancouver, BC, Canada V6T 1Z4
Tel:(604)822-8240   Fax:(604)822-8563   Email: daniel@ppc.ubc.ca
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: pollack@dendrite.cis.ohio-state.edu (Jordan B Pollack)
Subject: Re: Tax Advice
Originator: pollack@dendrite.cis.ohio-state.edu
Reply-To: pollack@cis.ohio-state.edu
Organization: Ohio State Computer Science
	<1992Dec23.200954.4553@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com>
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 21:44:28 GMT

In a year of buying lots of machinery, the advice i got was that the
overhead of paperwork (including declaring a business, paying local
proparty taxes, figuring out the depreciation system, worrying about
homeowners insurance exemptions) and the IRS interest in hobbies used
as tax breaks were both so high, that it would be better for me to wait
until income (if ever) was high enough (to afford an accountant:) then
I should establish the company and sell it all my equipment.

This may be wrong fiscally, but emotionally, it made sense!

Also, I've heard Delaware was THE state in which to incorporate.

Good luck in your venture.


-- 
Jordan Pollack                            Assistant Professor
CIS Dept/OSU                              Laboratory for AI Research
2036 Neil Ave                             Email: pollack@cis.ohio-state.edu
Columbus, OH 43210                        Phone: (614)292-4890 (then * to fax)
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 21 Dec 1992 11:24:42 PST
From:         "Jim Johnson 7-9535 (6518 TS/EN)" <jjohnson@EDWARDS-SCY.AF.MIL>
Subject:      Re: "Rainforest Destruction Has Many Victims"
              21, 92 3:41 pm

      It is my understanding that most rain forest loss is due to slash and
      burn agriculture.  I'm sure that a targeted species such as rosewood
      would be affected by export to woodworkers but the vast majority of
      loss is agriculture.  Rain forest soil is surprisingly bad which is
      why the people move every few years.

      James Johnson
      Standard Disclaimer
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 21 Dec 1992 14:47:37 -0600
From:         Jeff Roberts <JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.BITNET>
Subject:      Safest way to use radial arm saw?

Norm always pulls the saw toward his body when using his RAS.......

Jeff Roberts JROBERTS@UTDALLAS
From: howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Rebuilding table saw - advice sought
Date: 1 Jan 1993 16:16:58 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division
NNTP-Posting-Host: hplsdum.col.hp.com

walt@eng.clemson.edu (Walter B. Ligon III) writes:
> I'm in the process of rebuiling a 20 year old Craftsman 10-in table saw.  This
> ...
> Is it a good idea to remove the trundles and the arbor carriage completely from the
> table top?  Will re-aligning this be a major hassle for a basicly inexperienced
> bloke like myself, or is it mostly a matter of fine adjustment (which I have done
> before)?
> 
> I know some of you out there I have rebuilt these things before, so I'm hoping
> someone who has actually DONE this can reply.

This adjustment is part of the setup required when one buys a new
Sears TS.  You should be able to find general instructions on how to
in woodworking books in your local library.
-- 
Howard Rebel hpcsos.col.hp.com 

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ericb@microsoft.com (Eric Brown)
Subject: Re: Cabinet saws... what are they?
Date: 23 Dec 92 00:34:33 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp

Michelle Stone writes:
|What is the main difference between your garden variety 
|table saw and a cabinet saw?

A cabinet saw is a specific type of table saw with the following
defining characteristic: the motor hangs more or less below the arbor
rather than behind it and is thus mostly enlosed by the cabinet/base.
The cabinet/base is a floor standing unit that is totally enclosed,
although there is sometimes an opening in the side that exposes the
fan end of the motor, I presume for cooling.  You can usually get a
cover for this opening so that the blade, motor, and mechanism is
completely enclosed.  This facilitates the use of a dust collector
to remove the generated dust.  In fact, most cabinet saws have a
4" dust collector duct built into the cabinet near the bottom.

Cabinet saws are usually heavier and more powerful than the
typical bench style (e.g. contractor's) table saw, with several
drive belts instead of one.  The castings that support the motor and
arbor are much heavier as are the arbor and its bearings.

It's no coincidence that cabinet shops prefer cabinet saws, although
I don't believe the latter got its name from the former.



-- 
    Eric
               Microsoft Systems, Advanced Systems Development
            {sun, uw-beaver, apple, uunet, fluke}!microsoft!ericb 
                       internet: ericb@microsoft.com
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 21 Dec 1992 11:57:13 PST
From:         "Jim Johnson 7-9535 (6518 TS/EN)" <jjohnson@EDWARDS-SCY.AF.MIL>
Subject:      Re: Mortise Chisels
              Dec 21, 92 11:43 am

      For large mortises try cutting the majority of the stock with a drill.
       Then just trim the sides.  You do not have to brute force out that
      much wood.  Even a cheap chisel properly sharpened shoud do it.

      James Johnson
      Standard Disclaimer
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 21 Dec 1992 07:48:10 EST
Comments:     Converted from PROFS to RFC822 format by PUMP V2.2
From:         Bill McGeehan <IRMTAQA2@SIVM.BITNET>
Subject:      Power Miter Box Safety

From: Bill McGeehan
Perhaps I am overly sensitive, but a comment that starts out "QUIT WHINNING"
seems like a personal attack to me, regardless of later remarks to the
contrary. I don't wish to prolong this discussion, only want to say that I
*never* gave any consideration to suing anyone, and genuinely meant to provide
a safety warning.

Bill McGeehan, Smithsonian Institution
OIRM Computer Security Manager
Internet: IRMTAQA2@SIVM.SI.EDU
Bitnet:   IRMTAQA2@SIVM       Voice: (202) 633-9035
From: daniel@redwood.ppc.ubc.ca (Daniel Ouellet)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re:      Re: How to fill holes for new lockset?
Date: 22 Dec 1992 16:48:26 GMT
Organization: University of B.C. Pulp & Paper Centre
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: redwood.ppc.ubc.ca

In article <01GSKM4DN04Y8Y4XL1@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM>,         RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM writes:
|> Bondow (auto boddy filler) works well in big voids and large gaps because
|> it doesn't shrink. It's very strong and very hard (for a filler) and sticks
|> to wood very well.
|> 
|>                         Ron Tye (all opinions my own)

If you choose this solution, do not wait until the bondo as completely
hardened before working on it. The stuff becomes hard as a rock.
Let it set to a soft, cheesy consistency and clean the excess with
coarse sand paper. 

-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Daniel Ouellet, Research Associate
Pulp and Paper Centre, University of British Columbia
2385 East Mall, Vancouver, BC, Canada V6T 1Z4
Tel:(604)822-8240   Fax:(604)822-8563   Email: daniel@ppc.ubc.ca
From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 00:09:58 GMT
Subject: Re: Walker-Turner Jointer Blade Install
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
From: bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Moulders, shapers, routers
Date: 23 Dec 92 02:53:48 GMT
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Distribution: na
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated

Carty ELlis writes
> What is the actual definition on the differences between moulders, shapers
> and routers?  

I don't know the formal definitions, if they exist. Here are some practical
differences:

Routers use bits with cylindrical shanks.
Shapers have spindles onto which the cutters fit.
Molders have cutterheads into which knives fit.

Routers typically spin at about 20K rpm, although variable-speed ones
go as slow as 8K.
Shapers spin at about 7K - 10K rpm.
Molders spin at about 4K - 6K rpm.

Routers and shapers are typically vertically oriented. Molders are
typically horizontally oriented.

Typically, molders have wider cutterheads and blades than either routers
or shapers.  If you fit straight blades into a molder, you have a planer,
especially if the unit has power stock feeding.

It is possible to buy a molding cutterhead for your shaper or tablesaw.
Essentially the cutterhead is a wheel that fits onto the spindle (or arbor 
if a tablesaw). There are interchangeable knives that fit into the
cutterhead. These cutterheads are not nearly as wide as the cutterhead
built into real molders.

It is also possible to buy a collet that fits in place of the spindle 
on some shapers. This lets you run router bits in the shaper. Unfortunately,
most shapers spin at half or less of the rpms that most router bits are
designed for.

You'll find that molders can cut wide molding profiles in a single pass
(depending on the maximum depth of cut more passes may be needed), while
shapers and routers, whose cutting areas aren't as wide, will need multiple
passes at different distances with different cutters for complex profiles.

Typically, molders cut into the face of the board, shapers cut into the
edges. Routers can cut either depending on the bit.


>...I am trying to see if it is cheaper to make my own tounge and groove
> flooring (14 feet by 18 feet) or get it pre-done? 

What's the price differential? For 3" wide planks, you're talking about a 
thousand linear feet of tongues and thousand linear feet of grooves. Of 
the total cost includes buying the attachment for your Shopmsmith and 
blades, I expect it'll be cheaper just to buy the T&G flooring.

The router bits to make this are failry inexpensive, though, and if you
have a router table setup, this is certainly possible, but even so it may
not even be worth your time. How are you thicknessing the stock?

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
From: phil@mailhub.scf.lmsc.lockheed.com (Phil English)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Wanted-Disk Sander
Keywords: Disk Sander
Date: 21 Dec 92 15:28:04 GMT
Organization: Lockheed Santa Cruz, CA.


	I want to find an old or used Disk Sander. Ugly is beautiful! It 
must operate or be in repairable condition, 12 to 24" diameter disk with 
comensurate HP and run on 120 or 240 VAC 1 phase. I will consider shop built 
but prefer a factory built unit due to parts (new and used) availability. I 
will drive from King City to Napa to Sacramento to view.
	Please E-Mail description or location of any You might know of, 
will pay fair price.

				thnx %) Phil
From: tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: "Rainforest Destruction Has Many Victims"
Date: 23 Dec 92 04:15:36 GMT
Organization: University of Arizona UNIX Users Group

In article <1992Dec22.220544.12160@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com> billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson) writes:
>gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz) writes:
>: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson) writes:
>:    
>: >countries.  Another fact - the rate of deforestation in Brazil has
>: >been at the rate of 0.5%/year.
>: 
>:    Could you please cite a reference for this "fact"?
>
>I believe that it was in National Geographic's "On Assignment", on
>PBS. 

This was discussed as a result of careful photographic surveying by
the Shuttle on the recent PBS series on Space.  I remember, because
I was surprised it was so low.


>: >The greatest worry is loss of topsoil.
>: 
>:    I hate to say it, Bill, but this sounds more like an opinion.
>:    I have heard a number of experts indicate that loss of the forest
>:    and species diversity is the greatest worry.

Arguementum ad valorum.   If you are going to quote experts, then you
had better be prepared to provide the same level of proof that you
demand of Bill.   Which experts?  Where?  Why are they considered to
be experts?  When does the "opinion" of an expert become a "fact"?
Is every utterance of an "expert" a "fact"?  Not according to the
debates raging in peer reviewed journals.

Speaking of publication, where did your "experts" publish
their "facts"?   Mother Earth News, or did they publish in
peer reviewed journals?  

How do they define worry?  Is it possible that both Bill and you are 
right, because you define worry differently?   How do you measure 
species diversity, when  we don't even know how many there are, or how 
many are being lost?  Are you measuring diversity as a measure 
of evolutionary distance based on genetics, or simply 
counting different morphologies?

And, finally (and most controversial) does the loss of a few species merit
the same 'worry' as the loss of topsoil and the subsequent human loss
of farmland and lives through flooding?

I would be happy to agree with you.  I happen to believe in a lot of
ecological causes, and don't believe in the "rape it now and let the
future clean it up later" ideology that so many modern industrialists
espouse.  But weak rhetoric is not going to advance the cause.
If we can't talk intelligently on the topic, we might end up doing
more harm than good.  We play into the hands of the Quayleoids of the
world, who exploit the kind of fuzzy handwaving so prevalent in the
eco movement.