HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: mikeb@nowaksg.chem.nd.edu (Michael George Buening)
Subject: Re: A/C manifold gauges question
Organization: University of Notre Dame
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 16:34:51 GMT

In article <1992Sep11.203648.18336@en.ecn.purdue.edu> ghg@en.ecn.purdue.edu (George Goble) writes:
>In article <1992Sep10.162339.23464@news.nd.edu> mikeb@nowaksg.chem.nd.edu (Michael George Buening) writes:
>>In article <1992Sep9.230529.19206@gtephx.UUCP> rakoczynskij@gtephx.UUCP (Jurek Rakoczynski) writes:
>>>In article <1992Sep9.195545.4121@newsgate.sps.mot.com>, mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw) writes:
>>
>>[stuff deleted for space]
>>
>>>The R12 pressure (or is temperature the correct word?) in a
>>>non-operating system should be the same no matter what the total
>>>charge is, as long as there is still liquid R12 in the system.  For
>>>example, the pressure in a propane tank will read the same at a given
>>>temperature no matter how much propane is actually in the tank. 
>>
>>Whoa!!! What is the logic behind this statement.  I'm not sure what
>>you mean here but I can't make sense of this.  As many of you know from
>>a simple chem/phys text:              PV=nRT
>>where P=pressure; V=volume; n=amount of the gas (in moles); T=temp
>>and R= gas constant.  When you change any one of the variables,
>>n,T or V, you change P.  If you have more propane in a tank at the
>>same temp you will have more pressure.  Because this is related to
>>n, or the amount of propane, you can correlate pressure with concentration
>>if you know what the volume is.

>WHOA!  PV=nRT is the gas law.  It only applies if there is no "liquid"
>in the tank or refrigeration system.  If any liquid is present, the
>pressure will follow the pressure/temp relationship for the substance.
>Propane is an almost exact Match for R-22.


All right already!  See if I ever write again late at night.  I forgot about
the liquid part, OK.  I like this group but I don't think I can actually
keep up with the traffic but I'll try to learn on occasion.  Autos are great
and in order to fully appreciate them you need to learn how they work.  I know
less than any of you so I'll keep my mouth shut. (your welcome :-))

		--Michael Buening
		internet:mikeb@nowaksg.chem.nd.edu
  


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rakoczynskij@gtephx.UUCP (Jurek Rakoczynski)
Subject: Re: DOT3 -> DOT5, how messey ?
Organization: AG Communication Systems, Phoenix, Arizona
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 15:18:10 GMT

In article <9209041801.AA00554@rwasic17.aud.alcatel.com>, wpcallah@RWASIC17.AUD.ALCATEL.COM (William Paul Callahan) writes:
> I am considering conversion to DOT5 brake fluid. I am looking for a higher 
> viscosity fluid, and I suspect Silicone is a tad more viscus.  DOT5 is not 
[remaining text deleted]

I've sent Paul the excellent brake fluid article that
 Scott.Griffith@Eng.Sun.COM (Scott Griffith, Sun Microsystems Lumpyware)
wrote Dec 16, 1991.

But one correction that I'll post here.  I'll assume Paul was not
looking for a "higher viscosity fluid" but rather a "higher boiling
point fluid".

Here is a portion from Scott.Griffith@Eng.Sun.COM posting that covers
boiling points and viscosity:

---cut here---
Strictly speaking, though, the DOT spec number does not specify which
chemical composition must be used for each level of spec, although the
requirements for each level for temperature properties and chemical
compatibility with different braking system components pretty well
dictates what goes on. The most important meaning of the DOT numbers
has to do with the wet and dry boiling point of the fluid, and its
viscosity when extremely cold (as it would be nice for the brakes to
continue to work when the temperature falls to -40degC).

The DOT spec for those key values looks like this:

DOT level		 DOT3		DOT4		DOT5

Dry boiling point, min.	 205C (400F)	230C (450F) 	260C (500F)
Wet boiling point, min.  140C (280F)	155C (310F)	180C (350F)	
Viscosity at -40degC     1500		1800		900
(centistokes)

---cut here---
-- 
Jurek Rakoczynski, AG Communication Systems, POB 52179, Phoenix, AZ. 85072
UUCP: ...!{ncar!noao!enuucp | att}!gtephx!rakoczynskij  Voice: +1 602 581 4867
Inet: gtephx!rakoczynskij@enuucp.eas.asu.edu              Fax: +1 602 582 7111
Inet: /DD.UN=J.RAKOCZYNSKI/O=GTE/PRMD=GTEMAIL/ADMD=TELEMAIL/C=US/@sprint.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mikeb@nowaksg.chem.nd.edu (Michael George Buening)
Subject: Re: Supercharged vehicles
Organization: University of Notre Dame
Distribution: rec.autos, rec.autos.tech, rec.autos.sport
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 19:19:53 GMT

In article <1992Sep8.161221.28786@athena.cs.uga.edu> dug@athena.cs.uga.edu (Douglas Brown) writes:
>I've been hearing some about the new "supercharged vehicles."
>
>Does anyone out there have any comments on these.  Are they good?  Are they
>bad?  Compared with a turbo charger?  What does everyone think?
>
>I know of the Ford Thunderbird SuperCoupe, Pontiac SSEI, Buick Park Avenue
>Ultra, and a few more are supercharged.  Are there anymore?
>
>dug

I have always been under the impression that a supercharger worked
over a wider rpm range as opposed to the turbocharger that only
gives boost at higher rpm's.  I too would like more info on these
systems so I'll keep an I out for this thread.

		--Michael Buening
		internet:mikeb@nowaksg.chem.nd.edu

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: tafrakes@athena.mit.edu (T. Andy Frakes)
Subject: Aftermarket turbo kits
Keywords: turbo
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 15:09:07 GMT

Can someone give me some info on aftermarket turbo kits?  I'm mainly
looking for the following info:

1)  Where to get them.  Approx. cost w/ and w/o installation.

2)  How well they function (much difference from factory installed?)

3)  Ease of installation (how much is involved)


I'm thinking of adding a turbo to a '92 Eclipse (1.8L).  Any other
suggestions would also be appreciated.

-Andy



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kenny@osf.org (Kenneth Crudup)
Subject: Re: Good books to learn auto mechanics?
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 06:31:01 GMT


"Auto Repair for Dummies". Deanna Sclar. Started me off when Midas (see note)
gave me a $700 repair estimate for a 15-year old $400 car. Now, I curse at and
bang on other folks' cars, and they even *work* afterwards. Mostly, though,
JG DeArmond is right about intuition. Stuff like this tends to come naturally
to me. Being cheap/poor tends to help, for you'd rather know why than replace
willy-nilly.

*note - Anybody else notice that the "Midas Break Shops" were adequately named?
Anything they touch under your car instantly turns to gold, judging on what
they charge you to replace it!

-- 
Kenneth R. Crudup, Contractor, OSF DCE QA
OSF, 11 Cambridge Center, Cambridge, MA 02142	+1 617 621 7306
kenny@osf.osf.org			OSF has nothing to do with this post.
Not one of the "PC" weenies.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen)
Subject: Re: What's a good one??? was Re: CLUB Story
Followup-To: rec.autos
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 92 17:22:08 GMT

In article <Bu8o2o.B8r.1@cs.cmu.edu> rudis+@cs.cmu.edu (Rujith S DeSilva) writes:
>I originally suggested hooking up the alarm system to release tear gas.  A
>friend suggested that it should instead release a tranquilizer.  This can't be
>considered to harm anyone, can it?

well, you could still get sued.  somebody might argue that you should
have forseen that a thief would get zapped with it, stagger around for
a few seconds, and then collapse in front of a semi driving by.

wasn't there a thread about electrifying the car before?
-teddy
followups to rec.autos
From: v087mxgb@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (Shawn E Thompson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Nissan Pulsar/Carb. Problem
Date: 16 Sep 92 00:16:00 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <1992Sep15.212527.28047@philabs.philips.com>, srv@philabs.philips.com (Sreeraman Venkitasubrahmanian) writes...
>I'm not so sure that it's a carb. problem since it runs fine for a 
>short time after starting. Also advancing the timing seems to have helped
>at least on idle.

hmmm...I'd say a carb prgonosis is a little extreme


sounds more like a mass air flow problem (like putting
a potatoe in the tailpipe.


I would try 1 of 2 things first:

1) obviously remove the air filter and related restrictions
   (sounds simple but I've seen that exact symptoms with
   an excessively clogged intake)

2) check your catalytic converter (maybe use a test pipe
   to check it). This sounds like the more likely, problem
   as it is probably getting restricted and back pressure
   is building up. Advancing the timing will provide more
   low end torque (with enough firing pressure to overcome
   mild resistance at idling). Try driving it until it dies,
   then wait a SHORT time and drive it again. Keep doing this.
   you should see the performance improve the longer you wait
   as backpressure is relieved.

   Overheating may occur when you run with high advance, 
   it won't be a major problem, although it may cause some
   similar symptoms




Good Luck!


Shawn E. Thompson                         | Project Engineer/Mgr  (716)891-3375
v087mxgb@ubvms.cc.buffalo.edu             | Leica, Incorporated
University @ Buffalo                      | PO Box 123
Graduate School of Mechanical Engineering | Buffalo, NY 14240-0123
------------------------------------------+-----------------------------------
"Nothin ever grows in this rotten old hole, and everthing is stunted and lost..
and nothin really rocks n nothin really rolls and nothin's ever worth the cost"
                                                               --- Meatloaf
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: frank@endeavor (& Esquivel)
Subject: Re: Dirty oil after change?
Organization: University of Chicago Computing Organizations
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 15:17:48 GMT

In article <146@bluehau.bubble.org> hugo@bluehau.bubble.org (Hugo Bueno)  
writes:
> sgm@otter.hpl.hp.com (Steve Methley) says:
> ]neilw@informix.com (Neil Williams) in  
<1992Sep7.173024.14772@informix.com>:
> ]
> ]> My SO recently had her oil changed at a local gas station.  When I  
went
> ]> with her to pick up her car, I took a look at the dipstick.
> ]> I was very surprised to see that the oil still looked pretty  
dirty....
> ]> .. but I know that my oil looks clear and brand-new after a change...
> ]> ..for service not performed, or they didn't change the filter...
> ]
> ]Well, I do my own oil changes on three cars and each time the oil is  
clear for
> ]weeks/months afterwards.  I do use a flushing oil every other change  
(not
> ]additive, real flushing oil) on the two with hydraulic tappets however,  
but the
> ]other is just as clean.  The cars are all high mileage, one is >120k  
miles.
> ]
> ]I'd be wondering whether they didn't change the filter too....  Try  
smelling
> ]the oil !  Used oil has a very distinctive 'burnt' odour compared to  
new oil
> ]IMHO, due to dissolved carbon and petrol.
> 
> As a counter-data point, and one which I venture to guess
> is much closer to reality.....
> 
> I've done countless oil changes on cars and I have YET to see
> one that has clear oil after the change.  This even includes
> changing the filter and using engine flushes.
> 
> -- 
> =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
> Hugo Bueno  |Delphi  : MRGOOD  CIS: 71211,3662
> Fanwood, NJ |Internet: hugo@bluehau.bubble.org
> CoCo 3 UUCP |UUCP    : ...!s4mjs!bluehau!hugo

Considering that the oils job is to clean as much as lubricate I would  
take the dirty oil as a good sign.  I use Mobil 1 synthetic oil and that  
only stays clear for a day or two after an oil change.  I say don't worry  
about it. Just make sure you get it changed regularly and you have nothing  
to worry about.

Frank
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: donald@sq.sq.com (Donald Teed)
Subject: Re: Motor oil is motor oil... or is it?
Organization: SoftQuad Inc., Toronto, Canada
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 92 15:55:41 GMT

chucko@kronos.arc.nasa.gov (Chuck Fry) writes:

>It certainly doesn't hurt anything to go from dinosaur oil to
>synthetic.  In fact most synthetic oil makers used to recommend
>waiting until the engine was broken in to start using synthetics,
>because the lubrication was so good the piston rings would never seat!
>I don't know what they're recommending now.

I have been looking for a synthetic oil which matches the type
recommended for my vehicle (10W30), but I don't see it available.
I can find 5W30 and 15W50 in synthetic.  Is there something
I don't understand about the numbers?  Does anyone have
a recommendation on who makes 10W30 in synthetic form?

--Donald Teed
From: seanr@lobo.rmhs.colorado.edu (Sean Reifschneider)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Dirty oil after change?
Keywords: oil changes
Date: 14 Sep 92 18:27:06 GMT
Organization: Rocky Mountain High School, Fort Collins, CO

In article <1992Sep10.171455.28660@swlvx2.msd.ray.com> hsd@swlrat.msd.ray.com (HERBERT DASILVA) writes:
>hugo@bluehau.bubble.org (Hugo Bueno) writes:
>>I've done countless oil changes on cars and I have YET to see
>>one that has clear oil after the change.  This even includes
>>changing the filter and using engine flushes.
>
>  contact with (even non-Mopars - really!), an oil change every 4-5000
>  miles yields oil that is nearly crystal clean up to about 1000 miles (at
>  which point it is browning, but still transparent).  And I NEVER use oil

On my RX-7, I change the oil every 3-4K miles, and for the next 1000 miles it
is so light that I can't see the mark on the stick unless I hold it up to the
light and look for the higher reflectativity of the oil.  At about 3K miles
it's fairly dark on the stick, and when I dump it it's pretty nasty.

Sean
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: love@stacken.kth.se (Love Feuer)
Subject: Re: Annoying Achieva
Organization: Stacken Computer Club, Stockholm, Sweden
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1992 11:22:25 GMT

In article <716325877.F00005@blkcat.UUCP> Steve.Kaess@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Steve Kaess) writes:
>> [ Stuff about auto-lock deleted. ]
>> Is this law now? Or is it done because the Oldsmobile doors
>> won't stay closed by themselves?
>> [ ... ]

> [ Followup about people getting into your car when
>   you don't want them to also deleted. ]

Remember that if you wreck your car with the doors locked, the 
police/ambulance people will have to cut your car open with a
hydraulic pair of scissors in order to get you out, if you are unable
to unlock the doors yourself. This will take A LOT longer than just opening
the door and get you out.
You may be safe while your waiting for a green light, but you may also
die while you wait for the hydraulic pair of scissors to arrive.


And while we are at the sad subject of car accidents: 
I spoke to a guy a few years ago that had been in a car a whose driver fell 
asleep behind the wheel. 

When they went into the ditch at a rather low speed, the car tilted over 90 
degrees onto its left side. Unfortunately enough the drivers window was open 
and the drivers head happened, when the car tipped, to "fall out" out of 
the window and get stuck between the car and the ground. 

Everyone else got out of the car without a scratch, but the driver
didn't survive.

I always drive with closed windows (and unlocked doors) whenever I exceed
city traffic speed.

/Love Feuer 
(love@lk.se || love@stacken.kth.se)



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

>In article tafrakes@athena.mit.edu (T. Andy Frakes) writes:
>|> Can someone give me some info on aftermarket turbo kits?  I'm mainly
>|> looking for the following info:
>|> 
>|> 1)  Where to get them.  Approx. cost w/ and w/o installation.
>|> 
>|> 2)  How well they function (much difference from factory installed?)
>|> 
>|> 3)  Ease of installation (how much is involved)
>|> 
>|> 
>|> I'm thinking of adding a turbo to a '92 Eclipse (1.8L).  Any other
>|> suggestions would also be appreciated.
>|> 
>|> -Andy
>
>Why don't you just trade your car in on one with the factory turbo?
>You'll save yourself a lot of time, money, & headaches in the long run,
>and you'll have a car you can take to a competent mechanic for 
>maintenance.  You'll also have better resale value.
>----------

I second this motion.  I've tried to convert vehicles from what I had
into what I thought I wanted and it was always 10 times the effort and
money that I expected and it never turned out exactly the way it was
planned.  In all cases, it would have been cheaper to buy it than
convert it.

Are you ready to go through the entire engine?  You know the turbo is
going to add horsepower.  Are your pistons, rods, and crank designed
to handle the extra power?  What about the transmission and the rest
of the drive train?  Extra power means extra heat; is the cooling 
system designed to handle it?

You can't just bolt power goodies like this on an engine unless it
was desinged for it or unless you don't care if you blow it up.

my $.02
-Gene
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: avdh@sunnyboy.dazixco.ingr.com (Alain van der Heide)
Subject: Re: Need help on Installing a Kill Switch
Organization: Dazix - An Intergraph Company
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 17:04:52 GMT

In article <18tc03INN9f5@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>, ae454@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Paul Simundza) writes:
> 
> I need sum help on installing a kill switch in my car, like what do
> I kill, Power to the starter? How many Amps should the switch be able
> to handle? what Gauge wire would suffice? any other little tips I should
> know? thanks in advancee.

If you have an electric fuel pump, rig the switch to that.  Particularly (SP?)
on carburated veh.s, the thief may be able start it once, but it will die
quickly, leaving him frustrated, and possibly vulnerable to being caught as he
continues to try to start it.

You can usually use a cheap switch as fuel pumps don't draw a lot of current.
Either hide the switch under your dashboard near the fuse block, or near the
fuel pump (which is usually near the tank, under your back seat, or accessable
from one of your fenders).
From: awatkins@mullara.met.unimelb.edu.au (Andrew B. Watkins)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Subaru problem.
Date: 11 Sep 92 07:45:29 GMT
Organization: University of Melbourne Dept of Meteorology

A friend of mine has a 82(?)Subaru 4wd station wagon that
is giving him some problem at the moment. 
The car starts fine, but after only a short time (when I observed
it was about thirty seconds) the engine dies. It then takes about
three or four more attempts before the engine will come to life.
(However in cold weather it can be a bit more temperamental.)
He tells me that after that it appears to be OK. He has had a 
tune (as well as a reconditioned starter motor - though I suspect this
is from giving it a hard time when the engine wouldnt fire) but it 
did not appear to cure the problem. I tend to think it is a distributor
type problem - but I cant put my finger on it. Does anyone out there
know what could be going wrong; any help would be most appreciated.

Andrew.
From: jrp@bohra.cpg.oz.au (John Pitman)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: disc braks again
Keywords: discs vs drums
Date: 10 Sep 92 22:48:50 GMT
Organization: Computer Power Software

Hi there,
Good to see some more brake discussion. the people talking about boiling expand-
ing stuff OUT of the system are a worry though! Fluids (ie liquids ) are used in
brakesystems cos they are incompressible - when the stuff boils , it becomes, at
least partly, gaseous - which is compressible, and under load, your pedal will
go to the floor, not push back! The problems with drums were that when the 
lining material has a high enough co-efficient of friction to be useful without
power assist, as the temperature rises, the co-efficient of friction drops way
off - also persisent heating can permanently ruin the material's ability to
recover, and it's stuffed. Also as the diameter of the drum goes up, the effects
of expansion due to heat get worse in terms of distance away from the shoe, and
no amount of pumping will get the shoe to stay in contact and do useful work.
I dont think you will find a drum brake much bigger than 11" anywhere - that
was the biggest ROLLS get before they went discs, and they were stopping a lot
of iron ! as others noted, it is easier for discs to lose heat than shrouded
drums inside wheels, and drums could also get distorted due to loads on the
wheels. I have never seen a drum damaged by corrosion ( I did a year in a BUSY
brake workshop once), but i have seen drums parted from their faces by crooked
shoes cutting clean through.
the major benefit of discs is that it costs less to stop the same amount of mass from the same speeds- the disc is cheap to make mostly (maybe venteds are $$$)
and the caliper is very simple - the seals are just square section rubber,
compared to the seals inside drum cylinders.
As i said once before I have only once in 30 years driving been conned into
having disc machined, and that didn't work anyway. BTW why do the poms tend
to stick with solid disc rotors, and others go vented???
jp
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: DEVILBISS@OCTAVE.LARC.NASA.GOV (Zaphod Beeblebrox)
Subject: Re: Jeep YJ
Reply-To: DEVILBISS@OCTAVE.LARC.NASA.GOV (Zaphod Beeblebrox)
Organization: NASA Langley Research Center, Hampton, VA USA
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 17:06:53 GMT

My recommendations . . . 

	1.  4.0L I6 engine . . . A must
	2.	Factory Hard Top
		You can always take it off and the top half of the factory 
		split doors are a royal pain.  The plastic windows get foggy 
		and they flap at highway speeds.
	3.	Trac-Loc . . . Probably not a bad idea.
	4.	Air conditioning . . . Not necessary in Southern California 
		where I bought my Jeep . . . But here in Virginia where I live
		now, I would kill for AC on a hot summer day.

There you go . . . Have fun.

By the way . . . I did have a problem with a missing valve in the PCV system
that I finally fixed after burning mucho oil.  Thats on a 1988 Wrangler so I 
hope that they have fixed it by now.  

By the way again . . . Does anybody know anything about a EFI kit available 
for 6 cyl. Wranglers with Carbs?  I saw a advertisement for one in a magazine 
that looked interesting.  It's being marketed by JEEP.  

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
        If we were not crazy, we would go insane.
        If we could not laugh, we would go insane!     J. Buffett
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bourland@roentgen.radonc (Dan Bourland)
Subject: Re: Texaco Havoline horror stories?
Reply-To: bourland@roentgen.radonc
Organization: Mayo Clinic, Div. of Radiation Oncology
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 92 13:12:03 GMT


---In article 7451@cactus.org, thompson@cactus.org (Charles Thompson) writes:
>I have heard two bad stories about quality control on Texaco
>Havoline motor oil.      
>
>Has anyone else heard bad things about Havoline?  Other than
>quality control it seems to be an o.k. oil.

I have not heard negative responses to Havoline.  It seems to
be lower price, which I have always assumed to be related to
Texaco's need for cash to pay off the Penzoil award.

>How about CASTROL GT-X?  is it decent?
>

Castrol GTX oil is supposed to be a superior oil, long lasting
viscosity, especially for small, high-rev engines. I used to
use it in my MG-B all the time.
> 
>



-------------------------------------------------------------
J. Daniel Bourland, PhD	      
Div. of Radiation Oncology
Mayo Clinic, Desk R 
Rochester, MN 55905            
(507) 284-3551                  Internet:   bourland@mayo.edu
-------------------------------------------------------------

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech