HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: obrien@netcom.com (No parking EXCEPT FOR BOB)
Subject: Re: ballast - what to use?
Summary: modeling clay problems
Organization: Netcom Online Communications Services (408-241-9760 login: guest)
Distribution: na
Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1993 01:07:37 GMT

After several years, the oil in many types of commercially available modeling
clay begins to separate.  The remaining solid gets harder, crumbly, and
lighter.  What's worse, the leaking oil can really damage a finish. 

Sort of like recent publicity around certain surgical implants, it's like a
time bomb that may or may not go off and you've no idea when or if.

I find electronic solder (types with no built-in flux) and the lead foil
from wine bottles to be the best I've used.  Fine solder can be coiled or
wadded and there's little need to melt it, just a few dabs of superglue
or even good white glue should hold it.  Lead foil can be formed to shape,
glued, and layered.  The hard-to-use top parts of the bottle seals go
well here, too.

The idea of forming foil into the cavity, supporting the shape outside of
the model, then melting in solder sounds pretty good, but if you really
need that density of weight, there's probably someplace else you could 
put it that you're overlooking, like engine nacelles maybe.  Sure, leverage
counts for a lot, but if we're dealing with a tricycle A/C, (and most
weight problems are) then anything forward of the main gear will help.
If the nosewheel tire is molded in halves, fill it with a coil of solder.
Maybe there's room in the wingroots or fillets.  Try taking weight OFF
of the back, too by thinning non-structural stuff.


	Bob "don't usually have to weight ARMOR models" O'Brien
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: thorn@phoenix.radonc.unc.edu (Jesse Thorn)
Subject: Newsletter Exchange anyone?
Organization: Radiation Oncology, NCMH/UNC, Chapel Hill, NC
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 14:57:05 GMT


Are any of you IPMS folks interested in exchanging club newsletters?
My club, the IPMS Eagle Squadron chapter, does a monthly newsletter
that features kit reviews, modeling product reviews, history articles,
modeling 'how-to' tips, etc. We exchange newsletters with other clubs.
If you are interested, drop me a line and I'll forward your name and
address to our newsletter editor.

--Jesse Thorn
From: leber@panther.warm.inmet.com (Thomas Leber)
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: Revell Rosenbauer Simba
Date: 12 Jan 1993 14:28:24 -0600
Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu

I managed to pick up Revell/Germany's Rosenbauer GFLF Simba 8x8 Airport
Crash Fire Truck kit for a good price (trade, actually) recently. Can
anyone point me to a source for more information (photos, etc.) about
the prototype so that I can do justice to the kit? I'm particularly
interested in the units based at Frankfurt Main airport.

Contacts either at the airports or at the manufacturer would be
most welcome, as would references to books or magazines. Please reply
to my e-mail address: <leber@panther.warm.inmet.com>, as it is difficult
(to say the least) for me to access the newsgroups directly.

Tom Leber
Firefighter/EMT/VRT
Wyndmoor Hose Company Number 1
Springfield Township, Montgomery County PA USA
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: jeybbu@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Subject: Re: LITTLE PEOPLE OR WHO LEFT OUT THE PILOT?
Reply-To: jeybbu@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 03:18:37 GMT

To John McDermott RE little people

Pilots usually come from the spares box.  If you don't have a full one, you 
might try the IPMS chapter in Washington ore area.  Email will get you a
location.  Personally I vertually never use the people and would be
willing to transport several pretty good 1/72 figures for the right price.

For the crew of the Fortress, try Airfix ground crew set.  it would be right for a lot of the positions.  Some of theFortress kits come with crews which

(excuse the duplications above).

I cant think of any aftermarket pilots however.

Regards,

Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: piz@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (G G ZIPFEL)
Subject: Ruined Model?
Organization: AT&T
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 15:06:33 GMT
Keywords: HELP!


	I'm working on a '59 vette, from a kit molded in the 60's (was my 
	dad's), and I think I've made a terrible mistake. While I was painting
	the body, I had some running occur. I had been trying to get an
	even coat, but couldn't get rid of the texture from the paint
	(orange peel-ish), so I got a bit frustrated, and over sprayed it
	a bit. Now, I'm trying to sand off the runs, but there are some
	spots which I can't get to, mostly around details that I don't
	want to ruin. Is there a good way to combat this mistake, perhaps
	a method of stripping the paint with out hurting the plastic?

	I'm thinking about using an exacto-knife, and scraping, but
	that would be really difficult, and would be pretty dangerous...

	Thanks,

	PS: My dad would kill me if he knew I did this, but he's too lazy
	to do his own, so I take the ones I like, finish them, and then give
	them to him as presents. Cheap, fun, and he likes them. Much better
	than ties, or socks!


-- 
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Zip   Steelers in 92!          | Illinois Basketball: More three point 
      Bubby's Back!!!!         | shooters than you can shake a stick at!
"I didn't lose, the Team lost" - Coach
From: brian@coombs.anu.edu.au (Brian)
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: Does anybody know if?
Date: 10 Jan 93 12:40:18 GMT
Organization: Australian National University
NNTP-Posting-Host: 150.203.76.2

	Many years ago I used to subscribe to a modelling magazine
called AFV-G2 which was published in the US.  Does anybody know if
that magazine is still being published and what the address of the
present publisher is?

	Please reply via email as I don't often read this newsgroup.

thanks



--
Brian Ross_____Brian@Coombs.anu.edu.au________________________________________
	"Three discoveries are essential to the contented and civilised life -
sex, wine, and bookshops, by no means necessarily in that order."
_________________________________Tony Baker, Adelaide Review, October 1992____
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: edhresko@hresko.eos.ncsu.edu (ERIC DAVID HRESKO)
Subject: Re: ballast - what to use?
Originator: edhresko@c00560-1403br.eos.ncsu.edu
Reply-To: edhresko@eos.ncsu.edu
Organization: Techno-Geeks Inc.
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 15:59:16 GMT


	Since I do a lot of shooting and reload my ammo, I use copper jacketed
bullets.
-- 


Eric

******************************************************************************
Eric Hresko		* Mail:  edhresko@eos.ncsu.edu                        
Kanki House of Steaks   * Voice: (why would you want to call?) 1-919-821-5168
Dishwasher 2nd Class    * HK Rules!!! (But a FAL will do in a pinch)         
DISCLAIMER:  I don't wear sandals, eat granola, or tiptoe thru the Tulips    
                                                                             
At what temp will a frog become a superconductor?                             
				-Me at 3 a.m.                                
******************************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale,rec.aviation.military
From: pierson@empror.enet.dec.com (dave pierson)
Subject: Re: Filing and Organizing Photo Collections
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Date:  8 JAN 93 12:05:50    

	There are sw packages for inventorying films and prints, aimed at the
Pro & semi pro markets.  Never used 'em, so can't comment.

	Plastic pages, as noted, are available.  They come in a variety of
pocket sizes.  If a large collection is involved, working back up the supply
chain to get the volume discount can be a win.  (there's a factory outlet near
here, at the 250 sheet price, its well under 20 cents a sheet....). 

	I MUCH prefer a standard 3 ring binder format, to "photo album"
(proprietary) formats.  Other formats than the standard 4*5 and 8*11 are
available, tho digging may be needed.

	I file the "physicals" by subject, then, within that in date order.  But
thats just one approach.

thanks
dave pierson			|the facts, as accurately as i can manage,
Digital Equipment Corporation	|the opinions, my own.
40 Old Bolton Rd		|I am the NRA.
Stow, Mass, USA	
01775				pierson@msd26.enet.dec.com
"He has read everything, and, to his credit, written nothing."  A J Raffles
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: scham_ta@slab.unt.edu (Linda Schamber's TA)
Subject: Williams FW14
Organization: School of Library & Info Sci, UNT
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 18:39:51 GMT

Hi, 

Over the weekend, I picked up (finally) Hasegawa's FW14 (the shop was out of 
the B model (sigh)).  Anyway, after I got home and started fiddling with the 
kit, I noticed that it lacked the blue Camel racing logos that the car 
carried in 1991.  Seeing as how the model as is will not make up into 
anything that was ever raced by Williams, does anyone know of an after-
marketer that has made the proper decals to add to this kit?  Thanks in 
advance.

Robert Barker
barkerb@slab.unt.edu
From: pscotto@MtHolyoke.edu (Peter J. Scotto)
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: Query: Marine Tank Killers
Date: 9 Jan 1993 07:32:24 -0500
Organization: Mount Holyoke College
NNTP-Posting-Host: slab.mtholyoke.edu
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5


I've always built airplanes, but for some unaccountable
reason my son in interested in armour and ground forces.
Anyway, for Christmas we got his a "U.S. Marine Tank-Killers"
kit (DML 3012).  Other than the "international" (i.e. non-verbal)
instructions on the back of the box, the kit offers absolutely
no instructions on precisely what it we're building.  Other
than the three marines, there are two potable anti-tank weapons
in the kit, but that's as much as I can tell.  Anyone familiar
with this kit and these weapons?

--Peter Scotto

Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: dpalace@sunland.gsfc.nasa.gov (Dick Palace)
Subject: Re: ballast - what to use?
Organization: Goddard Space Flight Center, Greenbelt, MD
	<1993Jan7.161722.15086@rambo.atlanta.dg.com>
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 12:17:16 GMT


Try modeling clay, it forms into difficult places and works well
for me.

Dick IPMS# 1478
--
Dick Palace         Goddard Space Flight Center      (301) 286-9464

dpalace@sunland.gsfc.nasa.gov
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: djohnson@cs.ulowell.edu (Daniel T. Johnson)
Subject: Re: Remote control cars
Originator: djohnson@bigmax.ulowell.edu
Keywords: Remote Cars
Organization: U. Mass. at Lowell
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 23:09:20 GMT


Thank you to all who replyed to help me.
-- 
Daniel T. Johnson

-------------------------------------------------
Problems make life interesting and fun
Xref: sparky rec.models.scale:777 rec.aviation.military:1690
From: bruceb@mpd.tandem.com (Bruce Burden)
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale,rec.aviation.military
Subject: Re: Filing and Organizing Photo Collections
Date: 8 Jan 93 19:45:47 GMT
Followup-To: rec.models.scale
Organization: Tandem Computers (MPD) Austin, TX

In article <C0Hz6L.H8n@da_vinci.it.uswc.uswest.com> rray@lookout.it.uswc.uswest.com (Randy J. Ray) writes:
>How do you folks who photograph detail shots on static-display aircraft (or
>armor, for that matter) catalog and file those photos? As I look over my
>albums of photos, I realise that I have no idea what I have, and where the
>negatives are.


	Contact the folks at Light Impressions. They market a whole line
    of archival quality products, including several film storage systems.
    They have an 800 number and advertise in several photographic mags.
    Ask for their archival products catalog. If you can't find their
    number, contact me and I will e-mail it to you.

	I have a vertical system that I keep sorted slides in, small "flip-
    top" manilla boxes that hold the black & white negatives, and mylar
    sleeves to hold proof sheets and contact sheets. All in all it is a
    very managable system.

	As an aside, it helps to shoot only 36 exposures on a 36 exposure
    roll of 35mm film. Any extra exposures you manage become a nuisance
    when you try to archive your negatives, and may not contain a complete
    image. 


								Bruce



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  Bruce Burden            bruceb@mpd.tandem.com         Tandem Computers Inc.
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: jac54@cas.org ()
Subject: Re: Making 1/35th-scale rifle straps
Organization: Chemical Abstracts Service, Columbus, Ohio
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 13:46:44 GMT

In article <1993Jan7.164151.18366@rayssd.ssd.ray.com> m1b@rayssd.ssd.ray.com (Barone) writes:
>In article <C0Fuoz.4MA@wilber.rich.nt.com> zing@wilber.rich.nt.com (Leon Z. Lee)
>writes:
>> Does anyone have any ideas of making rifle and machine gun straps for
>> 1/35th scale combat figures.  I was thinking of cutting strips of
>> masking tape and then painting them, but if there is a better method of
>> making these straps..I would be most appreciative for the info.
>
>       I don't know if it's better, but I merely use paper.  It's
>malleable to form curves and paints well.  It's easy to cut as well.
>Try to avoid fibrous paper since little "hairs" will be noticeable.
>
>       I used to use thin sheets of plastic (from that company that
>specializes in that -- Evergreen?) but it was tough to cut straight
>lines (even using a straight edge and X-acto; the X-acto might still
>drift on narrow strips) and they might snap when trying to bend them
>into curved positions.

	Letraset make a series of tapes for use in graphic arts.
	They are adhesive backed and go down to 1/32" and are offered
	with a smooth or crackle surface.  They take enamel
	paints well (probably acrylic too).  I've used them for
	straps in a variety of locations.  Another possibility is
	to go to your local winemakers supply shop and get a
	bag of the zinc alloy sleeves used for sealing the cork and
	cut strips from them (it's very soft).
	These may hang better because of the greater density but
	may need to be primed for painting.

	Never underestimate the use of a graphic arts supply shop
	to the military modeller (especially if you have a temperemental
	airbrush).

	Alec Chambers
From: gse@ida.liu.se (Goran Sedvall)
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: Re: Headlights??
Date: 12 Jan 93 11:38:45 GMT
Organization: CIS Dept, Univ of Linkoping, Sweden

e46brown@skyfox writes:

>        I'm new to reading rec.models.scale, and I've got a question
>for those of you who built car models.  Recently I completed a Fujimi
>kit of a Honda CRX.  My problem is,...how does one go about making
>the headlights appear more realistic.  At the time, I painted the
>plastic on the body behind the clear plastic lense with plain old
>silver enamel paint......with poor results.  Real headlights seem to
>have an aluminum back too them, but most newer cars have this whiteish
>look to them.  Next time I was going to try Bare-metal foil behind
>the lense, but if anyone has got a better idea I'd like to hear it.


If the lenses are clear and the reflectors are in resonable scale, eg
looks like a pot, try to paint the reflector black. Belive it or not
but that give a very interessting look to the lenses. Then, I usually 
glue clear parts with white glue so the plastic don't turn to white.
Goran
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: m1b@rayssd.ssd.ray.com (Barone)
Subject: Re: Making 1/35th-scale rifle straps
Organization: Raytheon Submarine Signal Division
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 16:41:51 GMT

In article <C0Fuoz.4MA@wilber.rich.nt.com> zing@wilber.rich.nt.com (Leon Z. Lee)
writes:
> Does anyone have any ideas of making rifle and machine gun straps for
> 1/35th scale combat figures.  I was thinking of cutting strips of
> masking tape and then painting them, but if there is a better method of
> making these straps..I would be most appreciative for the info.

	I don't know if it's better, but I merely use paper.  It's
malleable to form curves and paints well.  It's easy to cut as well.
Try to avoid fibrous paper since little "hairs" will be noticeable.

	I used to use thin sheets of plastic (from that company that
specializes in that -- Evergreen?) but it was tough to cut straight
lines (even using a straight edge and X-acto; the X-acto might still
drift on narrow strips) and they might snap when trying to bend them
into curved positions.
-- 
Joe Barone
m1b@rayssd.ssd.ray.com
Has it really sunk in yet that as of January 20th, Mick Jagger
will be older than the President of the United States?
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: drt@brolga.cc.uq.oz.au (David Taylor)
Subject: Re: Paint drying mechanisms
Organization: Prentice Centre, University of Queensland
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 10:42:03 GMT

c34657b@saha.hut.fi (Tuomas Viljanen) writes:
> [excellent discussion on paint dying in the can]

ob sealing cans:
I always store them upside down. Any paint that tries to seep out
dries and seals the lid completely. They will keep for *years*.

I don't do this with jars as the odd one will leak quite a bit. Which proves
that they aren't sealing properly and the paint would have gone off
anyway. Fortunately, all the paint I have in jars is of the physically
drying type - just add thinners and away we go.
--
david@cc.uq.oz.au
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: rlw@atlanta.dg.com (Richard Wright)
Subject: Re: LITTLE PEOPLE OR WHO LEFT OUT THE PILOT?
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 93 14:35:13 GMT
Organization: Data General Corp. ASSD, Atlanta, GA

I was just looking through an old 1991 Squadron catalog (all right, 
which one of you clowns 'borrowed' my new catalog?) and noticed 
something that might be useful. There is a set of 1/72 scale WWII
Luftwaffe pilot and ground crew figures avalaible (at least at that
time). You got 35 figures for $3.95. There were even two pet dogs in
the set. I didn't see any 1/48 figures but there were plenty of 1/35
figures which might be close enough for a 1/32 plane (Now, a 1/32 B-17
with full interior details - THAT I would like to see!)

				Richard

-- 
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------*
* "Listen, three eyes," he said, "don't you try to outweird me, I get   *
*  stranger things than you free with my breakfast cereal."             *
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------*
* Richard L. Wright, Jr             * Disclaimer:                       *
* Data General Corporation          *  The views expressed here are the *
* System Evaluation and Performance *  One True Way to Enlightenment.   *
*   Analysis Center (SEPAC)         *  Everyone shares my views, they   *
* Atlanta, Georgia, USA  30319      *  just don't realize it yet.       *
* (404) 705-2642                    *      Riiiiiight.                  *
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------*

Newsgroups: rec.models.scale,alt.models
From: snoopy@crchh426.BNR.CA (Antonio Tello)
Subject: Vacuform kits (science fiction) 
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 18:48:20 GMT
Reply-To: snoopy@crchh426.BNR.CA (Antonio Tello)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.

I am looking for catalogs or phone numbers or whatever to get either
vacuform kits for new or old series or movies etc etc... or old science 
fiction kits. Any and all help would be appreciated.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
These thoughts are mine alone and not supported by my company, friends or
relatives.  Please consult  your  parent,  guardian, lawyer and local law
enforcement ageny prior to following any advice contained above.
NOTE:  I am on a  Canadian node  and need distribution  of NA to see your
replies. E-mail to snoopy@crchh426.BNR.CA.
 
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: djohnson@cs.ulowell.edu (Daniel T. Johnson)
Subject: Remote control cars
Originator: djohnson@bigmax.ulowell.edu
Keywords: Remote Cars
Organization: U. Mass. at Lowell
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 21:39:29 GMT


Hi All,
     I am looking for a news group on remote control cars.  I thought it might be included in this group, but it doesn't look like it.  Could anyone direct me in the right direction.
-- 
Daniel T. Johnson

-------------------------------------------------
Problems make life interesting and fun
Xref: sparky rec.models.scale:744 alt.models:1409
From: urf@icl.se (Urban F)
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale,alt.models
Subject: group propagation
Date: 4 Jan 93 07:46:57 GMT
Organization: None. On USENET I speak only for myself.
X-Alt.reply-Address: n.g.u.fredriksson.swe2001@oasis.icl.co.uk

We still have the same problem: rec.models.scale doesn't seem
to get to all the sites it should:

        +-- Estimated total number of people who read the group, worldwide.
        |     +-- Actual number of readers in sampled population
        |     |     +-- Propagation: how many sites receive this group at all
        |     |     |      +-- Recent traffic (messages per month)
        |     |     |      |      +-- Recent traffic (kilobytes per month)
        |     |     |      |      |      +-- Crossposting percentage
        |     |     |      |      |      |    +-- Cost ratio: $US/month/rdr
        |     |     |      |      |      |    |      +-- Share: % of newsrders
        |     |     |      |      |      |    |      |   who read this group.
        V     V     V      V      V      V    V      V
 514  22000   623   78%   251   635.5     2%  0.04   1.3%  rec.models.rc 
 867  15000   423   73%   166   445.7     2%  0.04   0.9%  rec.models.rockets 
 984  13000   365   65%   117   285.0     5%  0.03   0.8%  rec.models.railroad 
1317   7900   219   51%     -       -      -     -   0.5%  rec.models.scale 
 738  18000   496   63%    22    39.1    24%  0.00   1.1%  alt.models 

And looking further down in the list, we get a clue as to why. These two
groups have been superceded by others, and are therefore no longer "valid".
They have the same annoying dashes in the statistics, could it be that
something went wrong when the "newgroup" message for r.m.scale was sent, and
it was thus not created everywhere? I don't know.

 671  19000   535   50%     -       -      -     -   1.1%  rec.arts.sf-lovers 
1551   5100   143   34%     -       -      -     -   0.3%  rec.arts.sf-reviews 
--
 Urban Fredriksson  urf@icl.se
From: pscotto@MtHolyoke.edu (Peter J. Scotto)
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: IPMS Question
Date: 9 Jan 1993 07:34:44 -0500
Organization: Mount Holyoke College
NNTP-Posting-Host: slab.mtholyoke.edu
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5


1. How do I become an IPMS member.

2. Are there any chapters in Western Mass. especially in
   the Amherst-Northampton-Hadley area?

Thanks,
Peter Scotto
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib)
Subject: Re: Paint age
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 17:16:35 GMT

In article <1992Dec29.145024.17397@samba.oit.unc.edu> Kibo thorn@phoenix.radonc.unc.edu (Jesse Thorn) writes:

>Low Cost Paint Mixer - your pants pocket. Before I airbrush paint I
>simply carry the containers around with me in my pants pockets for a
>day or two. This does a nice job of mixing even the oldest paint. And
>it is free! 

Unless the top comes off 9-)





-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Iskandar Taib                          | The only thing worse than Peach ala
Internet: NTAIB@SILVER.UCS.INDIANA.EDU |    Frog is Frog ala Peach
Bitnet:   NTAIB@IUBACS                 !
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale