HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: sylveste@ecs.umass.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Audi questions corrected
Date: 13 Oct 92 12:17:28 GMT

In article <1992Oct7.192627.25045@morrow.stanford.edu>, ari@leland.Stanford.EDU (Ari Ollikainen) writes:
> In article <18691.2ad2cc73@ecs.umass.edu> sylveste@ecs.umass.edu writes:
>>
>>  I have to admit that I don't know much about Volvo (Audi is my speciality)
>>but Volvo did use an Audi 5 cylinder in one of their models in the early
>>eighties.  I believe that it was the 240.  I have seen one.
>>
> 
> It's true that you saw an engine that *appeared* to *you* like an Audi
> 5cylinder BUT you apparently did not stop to look closely enough to 
> acertain the number of cylinders...That diesel engine in the "early 
> eighties...240.." was the 6cylinder diesel from the VW LT72 I referred
> to in my previous post. 
> 
> How do I know this?
> 
> I *OWNED* a 1982 VOLVO GL DIESEL sedan! 
> 
> Any questions? I *also* owned, for a short time, a Westfalia SvenHedin
> motorhome based on the VW LT72 platform which was *also* powered by the 
> same 6 cylinder diesel engine...
> 
> Ari Ollikainen
> ( Too many Volks, too little time)
> 
> 
> 

Ari,

     I am happy to see that there has been a few people writing
in my defense.  After you told me that I don't know how to count 
I called up my parts distibutor to get the whole story.  He told me
that the Volvo 240 diesel in the early eighties all came with the
5 cylinder Audi engine.  But if you said that you owned a 6 then
I will belive you and won't insult your IQ.  My parts guy also 
said that the 6 cylinder gas engine in the same car was also
an Audi based engine.  Just like the 5 but with one more cylinder.

I didn't think that I could ever mistake an Audi engine.


                                         Mike Sylvester  Umass
                                         sylveste@ecs.umass.edu

If it's not German it's not worth driving.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Re: Octane and smog emissions
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 21:35:56 GMT

In article <1992Oct16.023208.10782@elroy.jpl.nasa.gov>, fod@elroy.jpl.nasa.gov (Frank O'Donnell) writes:
|> I found the recent discussion of gas octane here interesting,
|> but had a slightly different wrinkle to throw on it:
|> 
|> Coming up within the next month I have to face that wonderful
|> every-other-year chore, getting a Calif smog certificate for my
|> '74 Ghia.  I used to take this for granted in the first decade
|> or so I owned the car (I bought it new in '74), but in the late
|> '80s it got a little dicier passing the test, and once it failed
|> altogether (it has a newish Dutch engine, but the carb was 
|> getting real gnarly).
|> 
|> It now has a new carb, and I figured that a few days before
|> the test I'd go through a pretty thorough maintenance/tuneup
|> thing (replace plugs, points and condensor, set the timing
|> to factory specs, etc).
|> 
|> The thought has occurred to me, though:  can gasoline grade
|> affect the outcome of something like a smog check?  Is premium
|> (i.e. 92 octane) the cleanest thing to be running through it?

Octane has nothing to do with cleanliness of the fuel burning.
It is a knock inhibitor.  About the only thing that might help
would be to run an oxygenated fuel (which is what they sell in 
some parts of AZ in the winter months.  I was of the understanding
that oil companies in California had to reblend their fuels to
make them cleaner burning anyway.  The only company that appears
to have not done this is Arco, which was promoting the old car
buy-back plan instead.

Mark
From: vijay@ccd.harris.com (Vijay Ruhela)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Gear oil change in '87 Jetta GL
Date: 12 Oct 92 16:59:08 GMT
Article-I.D.: ccd.1992Oct12.165908.11233
Organization: Harris Controls and Compositions

Hi Netters:

Any of you have experience in changingthe gear oil of Jetta.
I have '87 Jetta GL which has a a transmission with a few teeth
broken. I want to change the gear oil at least. It will give me 
a better idea of its state also.

Also which gear oil is best.

The users manual doesnt say anything about how to change it.

Thanks.

Vijay
(vijay@ccd.harris.com)
From: blu@cellar.org (Dan Reed)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: 'Rocco question.
Date: 16 Oct 92 19:38:05 GMT
Organization: The Cellar BBS and public access system

Were they ever made as automatics?

Just wondering, as Ive never seen one, but it seems like a simple thing to 
do.

----- 
 Dan Reed (Blu-Max) blu@cellar.org - AutoCad Geek - VW Lover - InlineSkater 
68 Cougar XR-7, 89 VW Golf, 72 Honda CL360Twin, Ti/99/4a, Vextrex, Timex
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: balsamo@wmodev.enet.dec.com (Antonio L. Balsamo (Save the wails))
Subject: Re: New Golfs/Jettas
Reply-To: balsamo@wmodev.enet.dec.com (Antonio L. Balsamo (Save the wails))
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 17:07:58 GMT



       I may be mistaken, but I thought that I spotted one (Phase III Jetta)
   yesterday in Worcester, Massachusetts.

   Tony Balsamo
From: zirk@celece.ucsd.edu (Karin Zirk)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: VW Salvage Yard
Keywords: VW Golf
Date: 8 Oct 92 17:53:27 GMT

> I need some parts for my Golf, 1985. Do you know of some
> Salvage yards and/or a good VW autoparts store in San Diego,
> California?

I have an air cooled beast ('71 van), 
so I don't know if these
places will help you any but try:

Elmers Foreign Auto Parts  234-8201
(a salvage yard under the Coronado bridge)  Good prices
Ask for Robert the VW guy

Theres an VW parts only junk yard in San Marcos
off 78 near Palomar College. I don't have a North County
phone book  handy so I can't give you the
name and number - prices are a bit higher - but
you can call on the phone and ask if they have
what you need.  - If they do they'll hold it till
you get there.

If I need to go with new parts I got to my loca.
F.A.S.  (foreign auto supply).  I go to the
one in Pacific Beach - prices are reasonable
and they know their shit.  272-8730 in PB

Check the yellow [pages for other locations in San Diego
County

Hope this helps

Karin
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: silano@circle.cs.jhu.edu (Mike Silano)
Subject: [FAQ?] Tires for 88 Jetta GL
Organization: Johns Hopkins Computer Science Department, Baltimore, MD
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 14:08:59 GMT

I know this subject has been beaten to death in the past, but
in the spirit of the presidential debates, here' goes again...

I need tires for my 88 Jetta GL.  I may also need struts, but that's
another posting.  The car has got 80,000 miles on it, and the Pirelli P44's
that are there now are worn (about 35,000 on them).

I'm looking for a replacement tire that will perform a bit better than the
Pirelli's.  The P44's have some "stick" to them, but overall, make
too much noise and stink in the wet weather - sometimes, I think I'd
be better off on rims in real wet weather...  

I've heard some good things about Pirelli P300's and P500's.  

I've also heard some (good/bad) things about Michelin Mx4's.  
I've heard a lot of nothing about the Goodyear Aquatreads.

The car currently has the stock 13' wheels and 175/70 tires.
Can I go to a lower profile tire on the same wheels?


Thanks in advance for any suggestions..

-Mike Silano
silano@cs.jhu.edu
From: pebi@aem.umn.edu (Peter A. Bidian)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: For GTI (8V) owners
Date: 13 Oct 92 13:26:21 GMT
Organization: University of Minnesota

eric@quantum.on.ca (Eric Johnson) writes:

>In article <1992Oct12.163815.1@ulkyvx.louisville.edu> cl128219@ulkyvx.louisville.edu writes:
>>> 	o What is your gas mileage? I get about 28 mpg (~ 8.2l/100km)
>>
>>  About 30mpg on the highway and 25 around town.  Of course I don't dog it 
>>ALL the time ;)
>>
>>> 	o What gas do you use? The manual says 87 octane is fine, but
>>> mine is knocking, and I try to use 90. It seems that even 89 isn't good
>>> enough.
>>
>>  I put only 92 octane in mine (the highest I can get around here) and I have
>>had no problems with any pre-ignition knock.
>>

>This should be an FAQ but an improperly torqued knock sensor can cause
>the sensor to not function correcly resulting in knock  and/or loss of
>power. The engine is designed to handle quite poor grades of gasoline -
>i.e. stuff you would get in 3rd world countries. If it is knocking and
>you haven't just encountered a tank of bad gas, there is something wrong.

>Of course, if the original poster was just barely avoiding knock at 90
>then maybe he wouldn't want to fix it... sounds just about ideal to me :-)

>Hmm another idea - if the car is running with an advanced ignition (standard
>trick for a wee bit more power) it may be advanced too far.

In fact it was knocking only when I was accelerating in second gear, and it
happened only shortly after engaging the clutch. 

Peter


		                                                               
===============================================================================
Peter Bidian					     Internet: pebi@aem.umn.edu
Dept. of Aerospace Eng.				     Bitnet:    AE02022@UMNACVX
University of Minnesota				     phone:      (612) 625-1346
===============================================================================
From: borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 14:54:32 GMT
Subject: Re: Diesel acceleration (such as it is) stumble
Organization: Hewlett Packard Company, Spokane, Wa.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw

In rec.autos.vw, tgpt_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Tom Guptill) writes:

>OK, here's the problem.  My '82 diesel Rabbit has developed a sort
>of a "stumble" under hard acceleration.  The engine begins to accelerate,
>then sort of "hesitates", there is a momentary loss of power, and then
>everything is fine.  It seems almost as if one or more of the cylinders is
>failing to fire.  It's not especially cold out, and I haven't put any
>treatment into the fuel.  It could be just a bad tank of diesel, but it's
>beginning to worry me.  (I'm going to be relying on that car a great deal
>over the next several months to go on some fairly long trips).  Any ideas? 
>Bad fuel?  Sudden, unforseen injector troubles?  (It just started happening
>all of a sudden.) Serious internal problems?  Clogged fuel/water seperator? 
>Anyone?  Thanks in advance...

I had a problem with misfiring with my diesel Rabbit, but it was only at
high revs, and would continue so long as I stayed at high revs.  Thus my
suggestion is a long shot, but it is easy to check.

My problem was that I was getting air into the fuel system.  Once was due to
a faulty fuel filter.  The second time was due to leaving the air bleed screw
open.  Since there is a clear fuel line running from the fuel filter to the
injector pump (at least in my car), I could see the fuel.  When I reved the
engine and watched the line, I could see the fuel turning into pure foam.

Hope this helps.


Donald Borowski    WA6OMI    Hewlett-Packard, Spokane Division
"Angels are able to fly because they take themselves so lightly."
                                       -G.K. Chesterton

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: cole@rtsg.mot.com (Timothy Cole)
Subject: Re: Early 80s diesel VW pickup???
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 18:43:37 GMT

In article <1992Oct8.202607.29185@newsgate.sps.mot.com> mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw) writes:
>In article <1992O (Tom Guptill) writes:
>|> Diesel advantages:
>|> 
>|> - Great fuel economy (50+ mpg in Rabbits, slightly lower in trucks)
>|> - Very cheap in some areas ( $0.95 as compared to $1.20 for gas )
>|> - If properly maintained will run practically forever.
>|> - Shares most parts in common w/ gas vehicles (trans., alternator, starter,
>|>   etc..)
>|> - The ability to create huge clouds of black smoke to discourage tailgaters
>|>   :)
>
>- I'm still trying to think of some, but no luck so far....
>- How about - no ignition points!
>
>|> Gas advantages:
>|> 
>|> - Power.  Diesels before '85 have 48 or 52hp engines.  Trucks are especially
>|>   sluggish.
>|> - Maintainence.  No fuel/water seperator to change, timing belt less
>|>   critical, and oil is cheaper.
>|> - Noise.  Nobody ever called diesels quiet.
>|> - Availablity of fuel.  All gas stations sell gas.
>
>- Cleaner body and engine bay (diesel soots up tail, fuel is oily).
>- Cleaner emissions (diesels are allowed higher NOx in some areas 
>  and they are higher in particulates).
>- Provides free vacuum source for power brakes (diesels need vacuum pump).
>- Provides that thrilling high-pitch German engine sound (diesels-low RPM).
>- Less oil changes than diesel.
>- Availability of parts.
>- No silly glow plug warmup time in cold weather.
>
>Obviously, I prefer the gas versions.
>
>Mark
>

The biggest advantage is MPG's.  If you drive a long distance to work as I do,
Milwaukee to Chicago (Arlington Heights) back to Milwaukee, the fuel economy of
the diesel far outways the disadvantage.  My gas Rabbit is doing great if I
average 32 MPG's.  

Just my .02 worth.

-- 

	Tim Cole
	Motorola Inc.
	Cellular Infrastructure Group   
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: jdouglas@MITRE.org (Jason Douglas)
Subject: Audi 5000 idle problem - help
Organization: The MITRE Corporation
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 19:56:51 GMT

Can anyone identify the tune-up procedure / repair required to solve the following in an 86 5000 (normally aspirated w/KE-Jetronic, manual tranny) ? 
Or, do they all do what mine does ?

When shifting gears with a warm engine, the idle speed drops down to 
around 400 rpm, then the stabilizer brings it up to a steady 800 - 900.  
Of course, the same thing happens when stopping at intersections.  

The car is otherwise great, and fixing this one annoyance would make it 
fantastic.

Thanks.
From: 01ksdavis@bsu-ucs.uucp (Rebel without a clue.)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: UPDATE:  Squareback isn't holding charge.
Date: 8 Oct 92 19:15:50 GMT

-- 
	Update on my squareback:  


		Had the regulator replaced and the belt tightened.  It still is
	acting up, though.  I plan to trace all of the wires next.


	Any other ideas?


	Thanx in advance.

 ______________________________________________________________________________
|Kyle S. Davis				                                       |
|2000HD	1MbRAM//                                Hot VWs               1973     |
|1084s       //  Only Amiga makes it possible,    \/   Take 2 home-   311      |
|Oki 20   \\//   All others make it plausible.   \/\/  They're small.          |
|
|______________________________________________________________________________|
From: hcs@adpgate.UUCP (Howard Schultz)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Audi questions
Date: 12 Oct 92 20:21:33 GMT
Article-I.D.: adpplz.1623
Organization: ADP Dealer Services R&D, Portland, OR


for 3 years, volvo put the audi 5 cyl. diesel (which audi bought the plans
from mercedes) until they made their own diesel.  my mechanic worked on
several of them, most volvo owners wanted an audi mech. to look at an audi
engine. I owned 3 audi diesel's, one a turbo, and almost bought a volvo
because of the audi engine in it.

pop the hood's and compare side by side and you can replace them part for
part. there is even a VW stamp on the side of the engine.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Re: air-cooled
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 21:48:09 GMT

Yes, I got started with the air-cooled VW's, as well.  My brother bought a '63
bug first.  I then started with a '58 bug.  After I got married we went through
3 Ghia's, 1 Fastback, 1 Squareback, and another '62 bug that I made into an 
autocross car with an 85 hp dual-carb upgrade.  That was a pretty scarey car!
Had it up to 105 at one point in it's life.  We then migrated to the water-cooled
versions 2 Rabbits, 1 Scirocco, and an '84 GTi.  Our oldest son also went thru
a '67 baja bug during his high school years.

Mark
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: nils@jhunix.hcf.jhu.edu (Nils Gokemeijer)
Subject: what octane rating to use?
Organization: HAC - Johns Hopkins University, Baltimore
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 13:39:18 GMT

Nobody I have talked to can give any reason for using lower or higher
octane gas. Can anybody give a good argument?

-assumption 1.  Less knock with higher octane  (true or not )
		but that does not matter because of the knock sensor
		in my GTI  (true or not)
-assumption 2.  Higher octane is cleaner or behaves better, 
		so your car will accellerate faster  (true or not )
-assumption 3.  Higher octane contains more energy, so your 
		car will get more MPG.	(true or not)
-assumption 4.  Lower octane contains more pentane and other inferior
		fuels, but does that not mean it contains more
		energy, so lower octane will give you better MPG
		(true or not)
-assumption 5.  High octane gas is cleaner, so your engine will last
		longer (true or not)
-assumption 6.  Because you get better mileage with more expensive gas
		It all works out even in the end.(T/F)
-assumption 7.  Low octane gas will do fine, if you use high octane
		once in a while to clean your engine.(T/F)

Some of these assumptions I think are True and Some are false, but I do 
not know anymore, What do you guys (M/F) think?

(If you mail me replies, I will put up a summary)

Thanks, Nils ( a proud, and happy, GTI '85 owner)



Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: tomh@wes.on.ca (Tom Haapanen)
Subject: Re: New Golfs/Jettas
Organization: Waterloo Engineering Software
Date: Thu, 08 Oct 1992 11:30:05 GMT

> bernstei@next3.corp.mot.com(Andrew Bernstein) writes:
>> Sorry if this is a FAQ...does anybody know when the new Golfs and Jettas  
>> are due in the showrooms here in the U.S.?

greis@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Gayla Ann Greis) writes:
> No, it may be an FAQ, but the answer changes from day to day as VW keeps
> pushing it back. They will start shipping in January, so expect a 6 week
> delay for them to be in... (Feb, Mar). 

Just FYI for all the Canadians on the net: the new Golfs are due to arrive
here within a month or so.  Jettas likely won't be here (as in the US) until
March at the earliest.  Still no pricing info, though.

[ \tom haapanen    "i don't even know what street canada is on" -- al capone ]
[ tomh@wes.on.ca                   "trust the programmer" -- ansi c standard ]
[ waterloo engineering software      "to thine own self be true" -- polonius ]
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: TLH@ECLX.PSU.EDU (Thomas L Hoffmann)
Subject: Need tips for brake-job on Vanagon
Organization: Penn State Engineering Computer Lab
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 92 22:17:49 GMT
X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.24

Hi VW-fans,

I'm new in this newsgroup, just bought a '82 Vanagon Diesel with 
Westfalia equipment. I tried to get it inspected but they wanted 
to charge me a fortune for a brake job. Now I ordered all the 
necessary part in Colorado at a mail order store (Import Motor Parts,
1 800 999 1820), I think they have reasonable prices. I've worked on 
brakes before but it allways helps if someone who's done it before
has some good tips (mainly what not to do).
I'm going to replace the front disks and the pads as well as the break-
shoes in the back. The rear wheel cylinders were leaking, so that I'm 
going to replace them too. 
One more thing, the shop said that the reverse light doesn't work and that
the switch is broken. Is that thing easy to replace and who sells it?

Thanks for your help
Tom

tlh@kirkof.psu.edu 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca (Andy)
Subject: Re: For GTI (8V) owners
Organization: Math, Stats & CS, Dalhousie University, Halifax, NS, Canada
Distribution: dal
Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1992 21:33:10 GMT

In <pebi.718747155@sirocco.aem.umn.edu> pebi@aem.umn.edu (Peter A. Bidian) writes:

>I have some question to the GTI (basic) community:

>	o What is your gas mileage? I get about 28 mpg (~ 8.2l/100km)

About that, I get a bit more, but I drive very hard. '85 GTI 120K

>	o What gas do you use? The manual says 87 octane is fine, but
>mine is knocking, and I try to use 90. It seems that even 89 isn't good
>enough.

I use Super Gasoline, whatever that is.


>(I have a 91 Model)

>Peter


>		                                                               
>===============================================================================
>Peter Bidian					     Internet: pebi@aem.umn.edu
>Dept. of Aerospace Eng.				     Bitnet:    AE02022@UMNACVX
>University of Minnesota				     phone:      (612) 625-1346
>===============================================================================
-- 
---....-------------****----*******-) GTI FUN-atic                      o  
--. \/ .-----GTI---******--*********)         Don't forget to bike:     ,-\
--.\/\/.-----------******--*********)  (and sail and windsurf and ski)  0\-0
---....-------------****----*******-) gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca,goaway@ac.dal.ca
From: glenn@misty.boeing.com (Glenn Cirlincione)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Gearbox removal, GTI 16V
Date: 9 Oct 92 21:23:13 GMT
Organization: Boeing Commercial Airplane BCS Support

I replaced the clutch in my 79 Rabbit a few years ago and basically followed
the manual.  I am pretty sure I allocated the whole weekend for the task.

Glenn
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: ptrei@bistromath.mitre.org (Peter Trei)
Subject: Re: Driving Cars to the ground (and GTI mpg)
Organization: The MITRE Corporation
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 14:51:43 GMT

In article <1992Oct13.070954.25290@trl.oz.au> c.oneill@trl.oz.au (Chris O'Neill) writes:
>In article <1992Oct9.134815.10537@linus.mitre.org> ptrei@bistromath.mitre.org
>(Peter Trei) writes:
>
>>1986 VW GTI 156,000 miles. Clutch, fuel pump, water pump, catalytic
>>convertor, idle control unit, all replaced once. Brake disks twice,
>>new tires every 18-24 months. Fuel tank and heater core replaced under
>>recall.

...and over 25,000 miles per year.

>>I put about $2500 in repairs into the car each year (I don't have time
>>to do them myself). 

>What, do you run it without oil!?  Ten cents per mile repair cost is pretty
>high.

>Chris O'Neill

     OF COURSE I change the oil. (Jiffy Lube during the lunch hour).
You'll notice that the major repairs listed above don't include the
engine. I may have exagerated the cost a little, but it's probably at
least $2000/year.  Part of the high cost is that I get it all done at
an official VW dealership - I don't have the experience to evaluate
the local mechanics, and I'd rather pay extra and be reasonably sure
of having something done right than have the car die under the hands
of the untrained (no slight on the good independent mechanics out
there, but I can't tell them from the scuzzballs).

     I suspect that there are many drivers like me; we're not
technologically illiterate, but simply don't have the time to do their
own auto repairs or sit and watch a mechanic long enough to evaluate
his skills. Other things (repairs on a 130 year old house, my two year
old daughter, work and social obligations) take priority.

     To tie in another thread, I get about 27 mpg if I'm in a big
rush, and 30+ if I'm more relaxed. My record on the commute (40 miles)
is over 36 mpg.
							Peter Trei 
Organization: Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 21:35:58 -0400 
From: David James Madden <dm4f+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: 76 bus engine compartment


I am thinking of cutting the rear deck above the engine and welding
flanges on it in order to have more access to my engine compartment.

This would leave the area wide open with the upper cover removed and the
rear hood removed too.

Imagine, turn a couple of latches, lift off rear deck with hood atached,
and instant access to the engine. No more contortions involved in weekly
engine work.

My question concerns structural integerity of the rear body. As I will
be cutting through the section of reinforced metal in the extreme rear,
and reconnecting with a couple of bolts, will this hold up? Also has
anyone tried this? Results?


Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw