HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jimh@ultra.com (Jim Hurley)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: algae control fish
Date: 11 Nov 92 21:05:11 GMT
Article-I.D.: ultra.1992Nov11.210511.13373
Organization: Ultra Network Technologies

In <1992Nov11.054935.21752@news2.cis.umn.edu> Carlos Eberhardt <eber0005@student.tc.umn.edu> writes:

-->Hello:
-->	I haven't posted before, so the format may be all wrong, I apologize.
-->	My problem: that nasty grey-green hair algae that's about 1/4 inch long.
-->It's all over everything in my 58 gal tank. I have an 8 inch oscar and a
-->pleco of about the same size, along with plants. The stuff is too strong
-->for the pleco to eat, and with my plants, an algicide is out. I've heard
-->there's an algae-eater out there that CAN eat the stuff, but I don't know
-->any more than that. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Specifically,
-->I'd like to know the name of the fish, and whether or not it would
-->survive with my oscar. You can e-mail me directly at:
-->eber0005@student.tc.umn.edu
-->	Thanks.
-->Carlos Eberhardt                     University of Minnesota, Mpls.

There are practically no fish that eat hair algae unless they are
REALLY hungry. Perhaps the antennae catfish will eat it, I don't know
about that one. Snails will usually eat it, though.

It's not too hard to keep away, because it's usually caused by excess
phosphates and/or excess iron. If you fertilize too heavily (iron) cut
back, if you feed too much (phosphates) cut back. You're out of luck if
the phosphates are in your tap unless you dilute with RO or distilled
water.

A week in the dark will usually kill it without doing terrible damage
to your plants (probably little or no damage).

As a last resort you can try simazine (Algi-gon, etc.). I once tried it
at half-recommended dosage and it cause hair algae to wilt in a few
days, but didn't hurt any of my plants. At full strength it might do
the job very quickly.
-- 
Jim Hurley --> jimh@ultra.com  ...!ames!ultra!jimh  (408) 922-0100
Ultra Network Technologies / 101 Daggett Drive / San Jose CA 95134
From: hbishop@ttsi.lonestar.org (Huett Bishop)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: [F](F) Help! Ick, and high Nitrates
Date: 12 Nov 92 15:48:47 GMT
Organization: Tandem Telecommunications Systems Inc. Plano, Tx.

Help!
 
I have ICK in my tank. A few facts,

30 gal Freshwater
Aquaclear 200 Power filter
Nitrates between 20 and 40
Ammonia  0
Ph: 7.4 to 7.6
Fish:        11 Cardinal Tetras  ( was 13, Ick victim)
             Clown Loaches
             Kuhli Loach
             P***o
             Corys
             1 Angel (was two, Ick Victim)
             Pair of Guppies
             Algae Eater
             Pimelodius (sp?) cat

Heaily Planted with live plants, growing very good.

The cardinals, clowns and pimelodius seem to be the one with the spots,
the Angel was acting fine then starting hanging out on the bottom and
then laying on the bottom, this morning it was dead.

I have lost 2 cardinals and one angel and one of the clown loaches looks and 
acts real bad.

I have treated with ICK Care II (formaly ICK Guard II) which says it
is for weak fish or smooth skinned such as cats and loaches. I treated
Tuesday night and raised the Temp and removed the Charcoal. I followed the
instructions and treated again Wed. Night.

* Is this a good medication for ICK in my setup?

* Should I change to Copper Safe? 

They didn't have it when I went to
Wal Mart for the medication but have it at the pet store (they were closed).

* Should I treat a third time? 
  The label says it may be repeated after 24 hours

* Will the ICK be killed or simply dormant?

* If I can weather the ICK, when should I do a water change? and resume
  normal tank maintenance?


I have had the tank running for 3 months with no problems but a severe
case of Hair Algae, which I have been treating by reducing the duration of
lighting and tryin to lower the Nitrates.

* Any suggestions on lowering the Nitrates?
* Is my Ph too high?

I change about 6 to 8 gallons of water each week. And I have reduced the amount
of food.


+--------------------------------------+
|Huett Bishop                          |
| Tandem Telecommuncations Systems Inc.|
|Dallas, TX                            |
|                                      |
|Go Cowboys!!                          |
|                                      |
|email: hbishop@ttsi.lonestar.org      |
+--------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Subject: Re: [F](F) Help! Ick, and high Nitrates
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 21:24:18 GMT

In article <1992Nov12.154847.3618@ttsi.lonestar.org> hbishop@ttsi.lonestar.org (Huett Bishop) writes:
>* Is this a good medication for ICK in my setup?

Ick medications take a while to act.  It's probably OK, but uyou should
never treat the sick fish in the main tank.  Move them to a small hospital 
tank, where you can treat them without affecting other fish.

>* Should I change to Copper Safe? 

You don't know that your current treatment had failed yet.

>* Should I treat a third time? 
>* Will the ICK be killed or simply dormant?

Depends.  It has a life cycle of a week or two and is vulnerable mostly when
it becomes free-swimming.  High temperatures speed up the life cycle, so the
treatment takes less time.

>* If I can weather the ICK, when should I do a water change? and resume
>  normal tank maintenance?

Immediately.  YOu should be doing regular water changes regardless of what
you do to the tank.  You can always spike the water with the medicines 
before adding it to the tank.

>I have had the tank running for 3 months with no problems but a severe

3 months is about the tail end of the nitrite spike and the high point of
the nitrate one.

>* Any suggestions on lowering the Nitrates?

Do more frequent and larger water changes.

>* Is my Ph too high?

No.  Unless you are planning to breed those tetras of yours, it's not too
high.

>I change about 6 to 8 gallons of water each week. And I have reduced the amount
>of food.

Not enough, then.  Check your tap water to see if it has nitrates, too.
-- 
Oleg Kiselev at home			...use the header to find the path
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
From: frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier)
Subject: Re: FISH DISEASE 
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 92 23:43:30 GMT

William A. Parsons (wparson@unix.cc.emory.edu) wrote:
: 	I'm having problems with my 55 gallon freshwater tank and I was
: wondering if anyone might have some helpful info.
: 	Here is the problem:
: I started the tank with feeder guppies then after a couple of weeks introduced
: angel fish.

Did you do any tests, or have any indication that your tank had
completed cycling?

: some of the guppies showed white patches within
: their bodies
: the head/tail light tetras showed these similiar white
: patches within their bodies as well as collapsed pectoral fins.
: Then a few days later my angel fish ended up with collapsed pectoral fins but
: they did not show the white patches.

It is hard to make a diagnosis with no more info than that,
but given that it is a new tank, ammonia/nitrite poisoning
is a safe bet.  If you have no test kits, bring a sample of
your water in to a fish store that will test it for you (most
reputable fish stores in LA will do this).  If, indeed, your
tank has not yet cycled, do medium-sized water changes (5-10g)
every day or two until it does cycle (remember to de-chlroinate
the water).  If it is a disease, add some salt to your tank
(work your way up to 1t/g salt), and make sure you are doing
weekly water changes.  Good luck!

--
"They thought to use and shame me but I win out by nature, because a true
freak cannot be made.  A true freak must be born." - Geek Love

Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: mark stephens <stephens@kong.gsfc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Re: (F) Killer Lemon Tetra?
X-Xxmessage-Id: <A7241EF62B01EC3D@mstephens.gsfc.nasa.gov>
X-Xxdate: Mon, 9 Nov 92 13:58:14 GMT
Organization: NASA/GSFC
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d12
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 92 18:58:04 GMT


My Lemon Tetras don't show this agression, but they are in a 75gallon,
well planted tank. However, I have 8 Red Phantom Tetras in a 20H with
some assorted Aphyosemion killies and periodically, one red phantom will
lose a tail or other fin.  It might be the killies, but I suspect the
paranias relatives!

Lemon tetras are one of my all time favorites.  I also have a small
school of Garnet Tetras.  Both of these fish, when seen in the shop, look
pale and unapeeling.  Take 'em home, put 'em in a well planted tank and
wow, they both live up to their names.

    mark



In article <BxFDyv.Eww@newsflash.concordia.ca> Richard Clark,
rclark@alcor.concordia.ca writes:
>I bought 6 adult lemon tetras (Hy. pulchripinnis) two days ago.  I
         [...]
>
>If aggression is a common problem with these fish, I'm going to get
>rid of them.  If I wanted this kind of problem, I would have stuck
>with cichlids ...  Otherwise I'll either wait it out (if it is a
>stress-related problem), or get rid of the one fish.
>
>thanks
>
>rick clark
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:8641 alt.aquaria:5657 sci.aquaria:1579
From: bob@hubcap.clemson.edu (Bob)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria,sci.aquaria
Subject: [M] Drilling a Tank
Date: 5 Nov 92 14:33:11 GMT
Organization: Clemson University

Hi all!

     I am still setting up this 75 gallon tank and am now considering
having the tank drilled to avoid the siphon break problem. I have been
told that it is not a problem with ocean clear cannister filters though
because it is a closed pressurized system. I also want to avoid having a
lot of things hanging off the back of the tank. 
     The tank is a 75 gallon, glass perfecta. There are no local places
that do this regularly so I am going to have to take it to a regular
glass shop. They tell me that you cannot drill a hole in tempered glass.
I was wondering of anyone knows wether perfecta uses tempered glass in
the bottom of this tank? They also say that if it is not already
tempered they will have to send it off to be tempered after it is
drilled, otherwise it will break once I fill the tank with water. Is
this true? Does the glass have to be tempered after drilling? Where do
you usually place the hole? 

     Any help would be greatly appreciated!
     Bob Staaf
     bob@hubcap.clemson.edu
From: oleg@Veritas.COM (Oleg Kiselev)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: |F| Chalky water due to something! Help!
Date: 12 Nov 92 12:36:39 GMT
Reply-To: oleg@veritas.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Palo Alto Killifish Loft

assana@polkadot.Eng.Sun.COM (assana) writes:
>p.s. If it helps, I have a bunch of cardinal tetras, 3 mono, 2 clown loaches,
>	  a sword tail a few guppies.

Greg already answered the rest adequately.  I have a general statement to 
make here: if your "mono" are really "monos", i.e. Monodactylus species
fish, then they don't belong in the tank with clown loaches and tetras.
Monos are brackish water fish and need salt.  Clowns and tetras don't
need salt and clowns don't like it much.  

-- 
Don't blame me, I voted Libertarian.

Oleg Kiselev                                             oleg@veritas.com
VERITAS Software                           ...!{apple|uunet}!veritas!oleg
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: tse@ra.nrl.navy.mil (Anthony Tse)
Subject: Re: de-nitrator
Organization: Naval Research Lab, Washington, DC
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 21:13:03 GMT

In article <1992Nov5.132537.13567@kong.gsfc.nasa.gov> mark stephens <stephens@kong.gsfc.nasa.gov> writes:
>Sounds like a lot of bucks for the bang.  But what I really question is
>the notion that getting rid of nitrates will mean that you don't have to
>change water.  Nitrates are something we can measure and worry about. 
>There are probably other substances, similar in toxicity, which we can't
>measure (only your chemise knows for sure) and only a water change can
>get rid of.

	I have the same question about reef tanks.  There are people out
there who do a small water change once a year, and there are people
out there who do a water change every week.  Well, if you spend big
bucks on salt with trace elements because you believe the critters
in your tank is going to use them, then how can anyone do a water change
once a year?  And if you think all you need to do is add Calcium,
Strontium, and Iodion to keep the tank going, then why spend money
on expensive salt?

-Anthony
From: jimh@ultra.com (Jim Hurley)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Killing with Kindness
Date: 10 Nov 92 18:35:54 GMT
Organization: Ultra Network Technologies

In <1992Nov10.143420.120703@watson.ibm.com> cliff@watson.ibm.com (cliff) writes:

-->I have a 110 gallon freshwater tropical tank and have been doing
-->20% water changes every week.  Someone told me that I should stop
-->immeditately as I was overdoing it and could harm the fish.  Any tips?

That's utter nonsense. I do 30% changes a week on a 100g (at least I
try to, I've been lazy lately).

The only harm it can do is when your tap is already bad for fish,
like heavily chlorinated, has chloramine added, or is high in
nitrates, bad pH, etc. In that case you have to treat it or use
RO water, or whatever, but changing water, per se, is never harmful.

There may be special cases when you don't want to change water,
but I can't think of any right now.

I had heard from some people, for example, that African cichlids
do better in a tank with infrequent changes, and then from others
that you really need to do frequent changes.

On Sunday I did a 50% change in a fry tank, and on Sunday a 90%
change, because I'm trying to get them to grow faster, and they are
terribly overcrowded.

The best thing is to watch your fish carefully. After a while
it's pretty easy to see if they are under any kind of stress.
They give it away in color changes, behavior changes, etc.
-- 
Jim Hurley --> jimh@ultra.com  ...!ames!ultra!jimh  (408) 922-0100
Ultra Network Technologies / 101 Daggett Drive / San Jose CA 95134
From: oleg@Veritas.COM (Oleg Kiselev)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Killing with Kindness
Date: 11 Nov 92 23:43:10 GMT
Reply-To: oleg@veritas.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Organization: Palo Alto Killifish Loft
X-Disclaimer: I speak for myself only unless explicitly indicated otherwise

Out of the 4 direct replies 3 said "nonsense" directly and one 
implied it without much subtlety.  That would sum it up nicely, no?

-- 
Don't blame me, I voted Libertarian.

Oleg Kiselev                                             oleg@veritas.com
VERITAS Software                           ...!{apple|uunet}!veritas!oleg
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Newbie seeks info
From: wiener@dion.gac.edu (Benjamin Wiener)
Date: 5 Nov 92 15:25:02 -0600

I am an inexperienced hobbiest when it comes to aquaria.  I have had  
goldfish off and on (more off than on) since 1981 when I was 8, and  
Swordtails and tetras for the last three years (until I let my sister take  
care of them). I recently changed to all live plants in my 10gal aquarium,  
which also has numerous snails, 2 3in.+ Chinese Algae Eaters, and seven  
adult swordtails (all but one of which I have raised from birth) as well  
as 15+ baby swords from two batches.  I know this is too much but I have  
nowhere else to put them because my terrapin (I've had it for 3 1/2  
months) is using my 1 1/2 gal tank.  Here is what makes me inexperienced,  
I have never bothered with pH or Nitrite or any other type of water  
testing,  I use city Tap water for water changes,  and I haven't cleaned  
the gravel in over a year (I wanted a nutrient base for the plants).  I  
also don't have a working heater.

So,...    What do the experienced ones out there suggest I do to improve  
my set up?  Specifically,  what do the water tests mean, and if I get a  
second 10gal. should I mix fish with my painted terrapin (the turtle will  
need more space soon)? All suggestions welcome!!    

Also do swordtails change sex?  If they don't then I must be crazy because  
one of my definately female fish now looks acts and performs just like a  
male.  Please tell me I don't need a shrink!

--
Ben Wiener
                   :"All is not fair in Love and War"
                   :"But life is beautiful when you win" 
wiener@nic.gac.edu
From: oleg@Veritas.COM (Oleg Kiselev)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Green Water
Date: 11 Nov 92 03:14:20 GMT
Reply-To: oleg@veritas.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Organization: Palo Alto Killifish Loft
X-Disclaimer: I speak for myself only unless explicitly indicated otherwise

vchow@diana.cair.du.edu (VICTOR CHOW) writes:
>My water is green :-( !

Congratulations!  I wish I were that lucky.  I have a hell of a time
getting green water.  It's a wonderful stuff, y'know.  Small egg layer
fry eat it in the first few critical days of their lives.  It's the
best food for daphnia, which is the best food for fresh water fish under 
3-4" long.  It looks pretty and keeps more aggressive killifish from 
ripping each others' fins off, since they can't see each other.  As I
said, great stuff all around.

>What you guys think? 
>I have a 20 gal tank with artificial plants and some rocks, with

I think you should shield your tank from sunlight.  May be even wrap it
in dense black material for a week.  All your algae will disappear.

For the long term solution: feed less, change water more often, get some
real plants to take nutrients out of the water.

-- 
Don't blame me, I voted Libertarian.

Oleg Kiselev                                             oleg@veritas.com
VERITAS Software                           ...!{apple|uunet}!veritas!oleg
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: THE NITRITES ARE DROPPING! THE NITRITES ARE DROPPING!!!!!
From: <JAL127@psuvm.psu.edu>
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1992 03:28:24 EST
Organization: Penn State University

Tiger barbs are only playful. in small groups they may seem aggressive as they
chase other fishes around. iff kept in a group of six or more they will usually
 do fine and not botther any other fishes.  How ever if you decide to put them
in your 29 i would take your betta out as tiger barbs tend to be fin nippers an
d would probbably not resist the urge to nip at your betta.
From: bjkramer@remus.rutgers.edu (Brian Kramer)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Amonia
Date: 9 Nov 92 15:26:15 GMT
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.


I just added a product called CopperSafe to my tank to treat ICK and 
realized it was a big mistake since it supposedly kills all the
bacteria.  Therefore my amonia has shot up.  What I need is a
suggestion on how to fix the problem since there are over 25 fish
in the 55 gallon tank and no temporary place for the to be put to
clean out the tank.  Is this really the result of the copperSafe?
If so that company is going to get a big nasty letter.  They
claimed it is the safest ICK medicine and nowhere do they state
it'll ruin the biological cycle.  I have over $100 worth of fish in
the tank and don't want to loose em.  Already lost a few with a
lobster before I moved him to a separate tank.  The damn thing
ate a 6" fish...the fish was bigger than him....but now he is by
himself and my other small lobster is in a smaller community tank and
seems to just mind his own business.


Thanks in advance.
-- 
|-----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Brian Kramer - Computer Science & Mathematics - Rutgers University          |
| bjkramer@remus.rutgers.edu - SySop: NJ Computer Connection BBS (609)895-0398|
|-----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: dave@borland.com (Dave Draper)
Subject: Re: Golden Severums and Anglefish			
Originator: dave@genghis.borland.com
Organization: Borland International
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 19:43:50 GMT

In article <1992Nov06.145648.85866@watson.ibm.com> cliff@watson.ibm.com (cliff) writes:
>Hi, do golden severums and angelfish mix well?
>

I have kept both fish but never mixed them. Having kept both and seen the
way they act and behave I think they would do OK together in a large enough
tank.

>Can anyone tell me more about golden severums?
>Can they exist in a community tank?
>

Gold Severums, _Heros severus_, are herbivor cichlids from South America.
They are relatively docile fish except when they get larger and are kept
with each other. The thing to note about Severums is that they are
capable of getting quite large. It is not uncommom for them to reach
10 inches if kept in a large enough tank.

>Do the various different varieties of fresh water
>angel fish grow to the same size as adults?
>
>When I go to the fish store, I see some the angelfish have a few spots
>in their fins.  The store owner says they are unimportant, that they are
>not ick.  Any tips?
>

If they are small white dots about the size of a pin head I would avoid
them (could be ick). Use your common sense. If looks like fungus or some
type of wound I would not buy them. Good Angelfish are not to hard to
obtain, why settle for seconds.

>Thanks

Your Welcome.

- Dave
  Pacific Coats Cichlid Association
  Cichlasoma Study Group

-- 
Dave Draper
Senior Engineer - Debugger & Tools
Borland International
dave@borland.com
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: stu@mbsdev24.shearson.com ( Stuart Bernstein )
Subject: Feeding Fish When On Vacation
Organization: Lehman Brothers
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 23:16:10 GMT

  I plan on taking a vacation for 9 days soon.  I was
  wondering what would be the best method for feeding
  my fish (2 Dwarf Gourmis, 6 Cardinal Tetras, 2 Rasb. Barbs, 3 Zebra Danios)

  The tank is a 55 gallon with Canister filtration (Eheim) (No UGF)

  Am I better off with the cheap vacation feeders the stores sell OR
  invest in a fish feeder.

  I do not take many vacations, but I am worried about the vacation feeders
  they sell in the store which gradually disolve.


						Thank you
From: thk@tyres.asd.sgi.com (Tom Kong)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Want to go in on live rock purchase?
Date: 6 Nov 92 01:25:13 GMT
Distribution: ca
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc.
NNTP-Posting-Host: tyres.asd.sgi.com


After being favorably impressed by James Cho's tank which has live
rocks from Reef Scrapers, I decided to order rocks from them.
Unfortunately I couldn't get hold of them of the last several weeks.

Today I finally got through, and Lisa (the woman who runs
the place) told me of a price increase because of hurricane
Andrew (to $50/box for plant rocks, and $80/box for premium rocks 
with green seamats and riccordia).

I ordered a box of each, and was told that shipping will
be around $50 for up to 100 lbs, so I can get another box
of rocks for no additional shipping.

Anyone from the bay area interested in buying a box (30lbs)
or live rocks?  We can split the shipping charges.  The current
plan is to have her ship next Thursday to arrive at San Jose
airport Friday.

If interested, send me mail or call me at 415-390-1578.

/tom