HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: news@walter.bellcore.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Experience with Canon EF 100-300mm f/4.5-5.6 USM
Date: 2 Oct 92 14:38:35 GMT
Reply-To: jchen@wind.bellcore.com (Jason Chen)
Distribution: na
Organization: Bellcore, Morristown, NJ

I can't comment on the 100-300 USM. But I would like to say a few good
words about the 70-210 USM.

I have had the lens for over six months now. I found that I used the
70 mm side of focal lenth more than the 210 mm side. The added stop
(compared with 100-300) is very helpful in using a higher shutter
speed to reduce shakes. 

I took the lens to a native American festival. The pictures I took showed
excellent contrast and resolution. The vivid color and details in feather
seem to jump out at you. My resolution test using USAF test targets confirmed
my subjective observation.

I wish to see some test data on the 100-300 USM lens too. If you have the
lens, and willing to test it out, I can loan you the test kit for the cost
of shipping. Please send me an email.


C. Jason Chen 
jchen@wind.bellcore.com
From: steve286@ltp.neusc.bcm.tmc.edu (Steve Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: B&W film, fine grain
Keywords: Plus-X, T-max, developers
Date: 29 Sep 1992 19:50:12 GMT
Organization: Division of Neuroscience, Baylor College of Medicine,
 Houston, TX



I'm looking for some advice on good combinations of film and
developers for obtaining fine grain in 35 mm format. I have been using mainly
Kodak Plus-X and this certainly has noticeable grain. I used to use
D-76 developer, but have recently switched to Ilford Universal film
developer (liquid concentrate), mainly for convenience since
I don't develop huge quantities of film. It may be my imagination
but the Ilford developer appears to give noticeably more grain than
I used to get (even with 68F, tricky to get in Houston, and dilute
developer 1:15). I'm thinking about switching to T-max 100 as
this is supposed to give a finer grain. What are peoples favorite
fine grain combinations? 



-- 
Stephen Williams			uucp: {rice,shell}!soma!steve286
Program in Neuroscience			arpa: steve286@soma.neuro.bcm.tmc.edu
Baylor Col. Med., Houston, Tx 77030
From: myhui@bnr.ca (Michael Hui)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Sunpak 622 Super
Date: 27 Sep 92 20:49:49 GMT
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd., Ottawa, Canada

My application is outdoor shoots in dim sunlight or under shade in the
forest. My question is: does anyone know whether this flash can connect
to older SLR TTL cameras with the CdS light sensor, which is only
accurate for sunlight, and which is way too slow to respond in real
time to the flash's light burst? The old Canon FTb is such a beast.

I'd like to use the flash to compensate for low lighting on the subject
(i.e. "fill flash"). I do intend to upgrade my camera body to something
more modern in the near future, but it would be nice if the Sunpak can
adapt to older cameras also and still use their CdS TTL light sensors.
Apparently the Canon Autotuning System (CAT) present in the FTb does
allow the lens's focus ring position to be sent out on a contact on the
accessory shoe, so theoretically with the right circuitry and
compensation and under all the right conditions the flash should be
able to deduce the distance to the subject also.

I guess what I'll be missing is the flash's ability to use the camera's
TTL sensor to measure bounced flash's illumination on the subject.

Michael MY Hui          myhui@bnr.ca           Ottawa Canada
From: mtoms@ems.cdc.com (Mark Toms)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: mailorder experience needed
Date: 29 Sep 92 12:24:30 GMT
Reply-To: mtoms@ems.cdc.com
Distribution: na
Organization: Empros Systems International, a division of CDC

In article <1992Sep28.213344.13675@cis.ohio-state.edu>, sheng@skink.cis.ohio-state.edu (Ming-Jye Sheng) writes:
|> I've never buy things by mail, it will be highly appreciated if any of you
|> can share your mailorder experiece(good or bad) with me.
|> I heard that Camera World of Oregon was a top rated mailorder dealer, but I
|> got snapped at when I asked the same question twice. I was going to order 
|> some pentax accessories from them, but I changed my mind after that phone call.
|> Can you make any suggestion as to which mail order company I should buy 
|> my camera equipments from? 
|> Thankx in advance.
|> 
|> Mingjye Sheng

I have recently been dealing with Camera One in Sarasota Florida.  I
purchased a used PME prisim and Accumat screen for my Hasselblad and 
had no trouble at all.  The salesman was very helpful and the stuff
arrived on time (I had it shipped UPS red, they normally ship regular
UPS).  Last week I ordered a Quantum Battery, which I expect to arrive
any day now.

The word on the net seems to be 'avoid Smile Photo', though.

Good Luck,
Mark


==========================================================================
J. Mark Toms                                email: mtoms@ems.cdc.com
Baltimore Gas & Electric, Company
C/O Empros Systems International            Phone: (612) 553-4423
2300 Berkshire Lane North                     FAX: (612) 553-4018
Plymouth, Minnesota  55441-3694 USA      Mailstop: PLY060
==========================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jpehko@cs.joensuu.fi (Juha Pehkonen)
Subject: Re: Deniz_Tek.jpg (01/01) [Rock and Roll]
Organization: University of Joensuu
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 14:29:20 GMT

markm@wri.com writes:
>I've been thinking about scanning and posting some of my own work.  I think  
>it's a great idea.  I don't think we need our own special newsgroup, however.   
>Instead, why not just post the image to alt.binaries.pictures.misc or even the  
>new group alt.binaries.pictures.fineart.digitized and put a note in this group  
>describing the image and telling people where they can find it.


Ok, maybe using those newsgroups wouldn't be such a bad idea after all. Assumingeveryone gets the alt.* subgroups?

Juha Pehkonen
jpehko@cs.joensuu.fi

P.S. Could someone change the subject line (dunno how to do it without writing
a whole new article :-). 


Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: nichols@offa.cs.odu.edu (teresa nichols)
Subject: Re: about N90.
Organization: Old Dominion University, Norfolk, VA, USA
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 1992 19:46:30 GMT


To any of you have played with the demo model - I did yesterday. Nice feel
sharp focusing, excellent design. From a confirmed Canon addict, I was
very impressed with the feel of the camera itself.

I got a few comments about the EOS A2 from the rep. No literature or nothing
else. Does anyone out there have anything?

Teresa
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: sylve_ge@jhunix.hcf.jhu.edu (Gerald Sylvester)
Subject: Re: DEVELOPING ONLY
Keywords: DEVELOPING ONLY
Organization: HAC - Johns Hopkins University, Baltimore
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 06:33:25 GMT


>1-hour could handle it. However, be aware that whe you go to get
>prints after-the-fact they'll cost more than if you get them at the
>time of processing. 

First, is it possible to send a roll of film to a one hour place or
to York or some other 'proof print place' (can't call it more than that
since the prints usually look pathetic) and ask for the neg's not
to be cut and left as a long strip?  Second, if I have a long strip of
neg's, would it be ok to say put it back into a film canister (maybe
a bulk load canister) and then send it to some place to get more 'proof
prints' for my friends.  That way, I can get a whole set of prints
for only a few bucks instead paying $.50 or so per print.  Would the
neg's be hurt in anyway due to the attempt at 're-developing' them?

thanks

Gerald Sylvester

----just another of my usually stupid questions  8-)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: sevenup@netcom.com (Mark W. Moorcroft)
Subject: AF lens advice sought
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)
Distribution: us
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 04:26:17 GMT




	Has anyone seen any comparison tests or had any experience
comparing various AF lenses in the 300mm range. I would like a 300 f2.8
ED-IF for my F4 but I will be lucky if I can afford the 300 f4 ED-IF.
I have been (for the first time) considering a non Nikon lens. I would
like to look into cost vs value opinions in the 300mm range.


--thanx




-- 

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
 Mark W. Moorcroft -- sevenup@netcom.COM -- C.I.S. 70741,325
-------------------------------------------------------------
  "I speak for myself and those who agree with me !"   ;-)
From: asmith@iti.org (Andrew Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: When in B&W film too old?
Date: 6 Oct 92 14:56:28 GMT
Organization: Department of Physics, University of Adelaide, South Australia
NNTP-Posting-Host: adelphi.itd.adelaide.edu.au

In article <1992Oct3.214334.22844@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com> billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson) writes:
>davidson@ccrs.emr.ca (David Davidson) writes:
>: I have been given 2 dozen rolls (mixed)  of KOdak PanAtomic-x , Plus-X Pan
>: and Technical Pan-X. All has been kept in a freezer, but some since 1985!
>: I have used Tech Pan before and I love it, but is stuff this old safe to
>: use. I will be in Prague in 10 days and I dont want to risk bad film, but...
>:
>: So, can anyone offer some advice?
>
>I have used such films that I have stored in the freezer for 10 years or
>more. I noticed no problems with fogging.

On a related note ...

Around 1984, give or take a year, one of my father's friends found an
exposed size 120 film while he was cleaning out an old drawer.  It had
obviously been there for some time, and he didn't have the faintest idea
what was on it.  He gave the film to me to process.

I was absolutely astonished when I took the film out of the developing
tank.  The photographs had apparently been taken at an air show, and by
the design of the aircraft and the dress of the people in the pictures,
I would estimate that they were taken sometime around the late 1950's to
the early 1960's.  That would have made the film about 20 to 25 years
old when it was developed.  The negatives were a little fogged, but
produced quite acceptable prints on grade 4 paper.

I still find it incredible that, after being stored all that time under
such conditions (which, while they could not be described as hostile,
were certainly less than optimal), there was still a developable image,
let alone such a clear one.

- Andrew.

--
Andrew Smith  (asmith@physics.adelaide.edu.au)        It's worse than that, it's
Department of Physics and Mathematical Physics        physics Jim!
The University of Adelaide
GPO Box 498 Adelaide SOUTH AUSTRALIA 5001                        - Star Trekkin'
From: sog@craycos.com (Steve Gombosi)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Press Camera Questions...........................
Date: 6 Oct 92 00:42:56 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Cray Computer Corporation

In article <1992Oct5.183504.27844@nntpd2.cxo.dec.com> feldman@hal9k.cxo.dec.com (james feldman) writes:
>In article <1992Oct4.165916.6344@das.harvard.edu>, johnc@endor.harvard.edu (John Chervinsky) writes:
>|>At a rummage sale recently, someone was selling a Speed Graphics 4x5
>|>camera.  Although I did not buy it (slow speeds were off, lens didn't
>|>look good ect..), it did pique my interest. I have a few questions:
>|>
>|>In the 4x5 format, are there any models of these cameras that are
>|>considered to be superior?
>I'm aware of 3 "main" lines they made in that format, the speed, crown and
>super.  Don't know much about the crown series.  I have a super.  The super
>seems to have more movements than the speed.  The speed on the other hand is
>capable of a 1/1000 second FP shutter (provided is works) or you can use the
>lens' leaf shutter.

There was a 1/1000 sec LEAF shutter available for the Super - that's one of the
reasons why the FP shutter was dropped, I thought. It's a pretty neat piece of
work - it couples to the electric release on the body. I have *no* idea how accurate
it is, since I've never owned one.

>|>Do any models allow lens tilt about the horizontal axis?
>I though the speed had some tilt.  The super tilts in both directions and has a
>drop bed (although only one position).

My Speed has no swings or tilts, only front rise and a drop bed. I have seen
Crowns with tilts.

>|>What lens/shutter system is considered to be good?
>Since they were usually used for press work, they often came with a 127mm or
>135mm lens. Typical were the Optar and Raptar's, mostly uncoated and with
>limited coverage.  I lucked out and got one of the Optar's that was coated. 
>As far as shutters are concerned, there are three things you need to be careful
>of.  Older shutters will often be off in the faster speeds, the speeds may not
>match the speeds shown on you meter (200 vs 250, 100 vs 125) which is not a big
>problem, and the flash contacts may be Bi pole rather than pc.  None of these
>make the shutter/lens unusable, but you need to know the limitations imposed.

They were also shipped with Kodak Ektars (mine proudly proclaim that they
are "lumenized". i.e., "coated").

When I inherited my grandfather's Speed Graphic, it had not been used in
30 years. I had the leaf shutters (Kodak Flash Supermatics) checked and
they were dead-on accurate. I was absolutely amazed.

Steve
From: 6500wong@ucsbuxa.ucsb.edu (Ki Ching Wong)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: EOS - weatherproof?
Date: 6 Oct 92 19:42:58 GMT
Distribution: rec.photo

In article <LSWAB.92Oct5174757@bmerh953.x400gate.bnr.ca> lswab@x400gate.bnr.ca (Lyndon Swab) writes:

>>>>>> On 3 Oct 92 12:20:47 GMT, hrvoje@castle.ed.ac.uk (H Hecimovic) said:
>  hrvoje> Bcc: hrvoje@castle



>  hrvoje> Hi, does anybody has any EXPERIENCE using EOS (I have Rebel) in bad
>  hrvoje> weather - fog, drizzle, shower?

>  hrvoje> Hrvoje

>I've used an EOS 650 in -25 degree (C) weather, fog, drizzle, and
>full-out rain (only for a few minutes in the rain).  No problems at
>all.  I wouldn't want to leave it in the rain for long though.  I
>suspect that the electronic components are sealed quite well.

>You may have different luck with a Rebel.  
>--
>Lyndon Swab     lswab@bnr.ca, (613) 763-7165, ESN 393-7165

I have taken my EOS 10 out on a whale watching trip under pretty
bad weather.  It's still working fine.  My EOS 1 has gone thru
even worse ordeal.  I was hiking up the Narrows at Zion and I
slipped on a rock.  My EOS1+motordrive was partially submerged.
The motordrive went nuts right away.  But believe it or not, it
is still working now, without repair.  BTW, my Tokina 20-35mm
lived thru that dip too.
I don't recommend trying the above stunts on your EOS, but it
says something about their construction.  Also, I would
recommend cleaning your camera thoroughly after such outtings.

-Ki Wong
6500wong@ucsbuxa.ucsb.edu
From: Gen.M.Kanai@dartmouth.edu (Gen M. Kanai)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: reccomendations?
Date: 27 Sep 92 01:53:14 GMT
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH
X-Posted-From: InterNews1.0a5@newshost.dartmouth.edu

Anyone have thoughts on a fast zoom for my F3?  Doesn't have to be
Nikon, but needs to be 2.8 or better.  Cost is an issue, so none of
those thousand-dollar lenses.  Anything from 24-200 or any combination
in between.

replies to gen.kanai@dartmouth.edu

thanks in advance
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: drw41888@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Dave Wiltz)
Subject: Re: EOS - weatherproof?
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Distribution: rec.photo
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 01:31:23 GMT

keeney@vixvax.mgi.com writes:

>In article <26526@castle.ed.ac.uk>, hrvoje@castle.ed.ac.uk (H Hecimovic) writes:
>> 
>> 
>> Hi, does anybody has any EXPERIENCE using EOS (I have Rebel) in bad
>> weather - fog, drizzle, shower?

>I have used my EOS-1 (and assorted EF lenses) in all sorts of 
>camera-hostile situations:

>	On the beach with high winds blowing salt spray everywhere, 

>	Outdoors on a "crisp" MN winter day (-15 deg F).

I have a 630 that has seen the spray, so I'll vouch for the 
-less than ohmigod priced EOS's-.

In addition, it's been over my shoulder (around the neck) on a few
climbs up the sides of waterfalls (lousy with spray and hard knocks),
through some pretty nasty stuff on a volcano, and even through the
combat zone in Boston.

I'm not so sure about the plastic body on the Rebel, but the metal
EOS bodies seem to be pretty tough.
-Dave

-- 
David Wiltz                                 wiltz@after.math.uiuc.edu
Calculus&Mathematica Development Team
University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign  NeXT Mail always welcome!
-Doing business with the government is a lot like playing poker with God-
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: rbhank@wsl.dec.com (Ron Bhanukitsiri)
Subject: Re: AGFA, Fuji, Kodak or ?
Reply-To: rbhank@wsl.dec.com (Ron Bhanukitsiri)
Organization: DEC Western Software Lab
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 92 14:28:30 GMT


In article <67111@cup.portal.com>, John_A_Pham@cup.portal.com writes:

|> 
|> What's the different in quality of AGFA, Fuji or Kodak film.
|> Assume it is all ISO 100 speed.  I do notice that Fuji film is
|> cheaper than Kodak. 
|>  
|> John
|> 

I have used all 3.  But I concluded that I get *more consistent* results
from Kodak Gold film.  I had good results with Fuji and Agfa fims, but
I think the fault is with the lab when the printing is screwed up.  It
seems like most operators are more familiar with the Gold film.  In fact,
recent Pop Photography's article stated that some film maker even try to
make their film like Gold to make printing easier!  What a shame.  I'm
talking about photo lab (not drugstore).

Agfa is the cheapest of the lot; I can get 24 exp XRG100 for $2.50 (27
exposures actually).  I do notice that the grain structure is not as
good as Gold or SuperHRG.

Ron B[ee]
From: nstrand@hopi.intel.com (Norman Strand~)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: RE:-100mm focal length lens
Date: 30 Sep 92 15:29:31 GMT
Organization: Intel Corporation

I have lost the request for information but someone asked if there is a
source for a -100mm focal length acromat lens.  I held a 2x teleconverter
for a 35mm lens in the direct sunlight and noticed that the light paths
would indicate that a 2x teleconverter is a negative focal length lens.
However with the one that I have the focal length is too short and the 
diameter is too small to fit the request.  I stoped at a camera store
last night and noticed that the diameter of the rear element on lenses
for the mamiya 6x7 is about 50mm, and logic tells me that a 2x converter 
for a 100mm normal lens would have a focal length of -100 mm.  One good    
measurment is worth the logic of a thousand experts.  Unfortunately 
I did not find a 2x teleconverter for a mamiya 6x7 that I could measure.

Norman Strand
From: bu890@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Brian Segal)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Spot metering from Hasselblad screen
Date: 4 Oct 1992 20:43:55 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


WOW!!
neat...I shall try this with my 503CX and report back...

brian
From: volker@nsc.nsc.com (Volker Soffel)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Slide Projectors
Date: 28 Sep 92 20:12:14 GMT
Organization: National Semiconductor, Santa Clara

In article <1a4a2rINNfjc@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> ccy@po.CWRU.Edu (Cheung C. Yue) writes:
>
>I have had a Rollei projector for >15 years.  It is like the Leica and
>uses a straight magazine tray.  The beauty of the projector is that the
>cover comes right off with just one screw, and no jam is too difficult
>to deal with.  Although a 50 slide tray is a bit small, actually I 
>believe the # of slides/sq. in. footprint of the tray is probably 
>better with the straight tray than with the carousel.  I believe you
>can buy a box with 2 straight trays, so carrying 100 slides at a time
>is no big deal.  
>
>C Cho Yue
>ccy@po.cwru.edu
>
Just thought I add that Rollei actually offers their "own" sort of straight
magazines that allow you to cascade several 50slide magazines for "endless"
uninterrupted viewing. (when the first 50slide magazine is through you take
it out while the second one is already showing and tack the next magazine
to the end of the second, etc.). And yes these boxes that carry two 50
straight trays are very convinient for carrying and also for storing a large
number of slides (ever tried to store all your slides in carousels?) ready
for showing any time.

-- 
Volker Soffel			National Semiconductor Corporation
volker@nsc.nsc.com		Embedded Control Division Applications
(408) 721-4360			Santa Clara, CA95052
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: When in B&W film too old?
Date: 3 Oct 92 21:43:34 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA

davidson@ccrs.emr.ca (David Davidson) writes:
: I have been given 2 dozen rolls (mixed)  of KOdak PanAtomic-x , Plus-X Pan
: and Technical Pan-X. All has been kept in a freezer, but some since 1985!
: I have used Tech Pan before and I love it, but is stuff this old safe to
: use. I will be in Prague in 10 days and I dont want to risk bad film, but...
: 
: So, can anyone offer some advice? 

I have used such films that I have stored in the freezer for 10 years or
more. I noticed no problems with fogging. 

Just to play it safe, you could expose a roll and process it, before you
go. You then could tell if it was ok - assuming all the rest of the film
was stored under the same condition.

Bill
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au (Paul Repacholi)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: EPP vs EPX
Date: 27 Sep 92 17:43:12 GMT
Organization: Curtin University of Technology

In article <1992Sep27.032256.25279@athena.mit.edu>, sleepy@athena.mit.edu (Stephen S. Hau) writes:
> Could someone please explain the difference between
> Kodak EPP and EPX.  Thanks, Steve.
> 
EPP: Ektachrome 100 Plus Pro, 35,120,220 and sheet. 100ISO, datlight.

EPX: Ektachrome 64X Pro, 35, 120. 64ISO, daylight warm balance. New this year.

the X eks are a new series, that have a warmer 'golden' balance. Too many people
grizzeling about the 'cold' apearance I guess. Seem to have been well recieved
from all reports.

~Paul