HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: wack@ariel.ncsl.nist.gov (John Wack)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Jointers, Which one to buy?
Date: 11 Jan 93 14:57:41 GMT
Organization: National Institute of Standards & Technology

In article <2430012@hpgrla.gr.hp.com> peterd@hpgrla.gr.hp.com (Peter Davidoff) writes:
>
>
>I've been following this thread with interest... I intend to
>purchase a 6" jointer soon.  I have considered the Griz, and
>
>I'm not sure about the Ryobi... seems good, but... but I don't know.
>Guess, like many have said in this thread, it's between the Ryobi and
>the Jet.
>
>Anyway... thought I'd share the *saga of the search for a jointer*.
>

Peter,

I know this topic has been discussed almost to death, however since I
had much inner turmoil myself over whether to buy the Jet or Ryobi, I'll
post what I did.  My humble opinion is, if you intend your jointer to be
used in your shop and not on the job, buy the Jet.  With the Ryobi,
you'll need to buy extension wings or make them, and by the time you're
finished, you'll be more or less at the same price.  However, a couple
of caveats:  the price of the Jet should be around $430 w/delivery - 
you can get that price out of FWW ads, so I wouldn't pay more.  Second,
the Jet will probably require some "tweaking," which can range from 
adjustment of the tables to even grinding some of the other surfaces.
Return the thing if any of the tables are warped.  A plus for the 
Ryobi is that quality control seems to be good.  I bought the Jet and
am satisfied, but I also bought Duginski's recent book to help me
inspect and then adjust the tables (mine were okay).

I think that Delta, at the lower end, can be worse or no better than
the imports.  However, their quality control, imho, is pretty good
and I've heard good things about their 6" jointer.  You'll spend a 
couple hundred more, but I think you'll have less hassle in the 
short run with the Delta.  If that's very important, I'd go for the
Delta.  Otherwise, if you can change your car's oil and spark plugs,
go for the Jet!

Good luck,
John Wack


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: parnass@cbnewse.cb.att.com (Bob Parnass, AJ9S)
Subject: Re: Sprunger Brothers tools?
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories, Naperville, IL
Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1993 04:31:43 GMT
Summary: Sprunger tool pictures in old book.
Keywords: power tools


I have a 1979 Popular Science book entitled "The Great Tool
Emporium," by David X. Manners.   It contains pictures of
Sprunger bandsaws, scrollsaws, jointers, and drill presses,
but no Sprunger lathes. 
-- 
==============================================================================
Bob Parnass, AJ9S  -  AT&T Bell Labs  -  parnass@ihlpm.att.com - (708)979-5414
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mcovingt@aisun3.ai.uga.edu (Michael Covington)
Subject: Amish; was: Re: WARNING (response to...)
Organization: AI Programs, University of Georgia, Athens
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 17:00:28 GMT


My understanding -- and this may be completely wrong -- is that the Amish
use air power rather than electrical power in order to avoid a connection
to a utility system.  That is, they feel that being connected to an outside
utility system would make them vulnerable to outside control.

Is that anything like a correct understanding of it?
-- 
:-  Michael A. Covington     internet mcovingt@uga.cc.uga.edu :    *****
:-  Artificial Intelligence Programs       phone 706 542-0358 :  *********
:-  The University of Georgia                fax 706 542-0349 :   *  *  *
:-  Athens, Georgia 30602-7415 U.S.A.     amateur radio N4TMI :  ** *** **
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: rbp@netcom.com (Bob Pasker)
Subject: filing cabinets
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1993 02:16:34 GMT

i'm about to embark on building myself an oak filing cabinet and i'm
looking for plans and ball-bearing mechanisms for the draws.

any suggestions where i might find these?

thanks

-- 
-- 
-- bob pasker
-- rbp@netcom.com
--
From: mcbryde@navier.math.uh.edu (Jack Mcbryde)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: How to use waterstone?
Date: 10 Jan 1993 03:39:27 GMT
Organization: UH Dept of Math
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: navier.math.uh.edu

Hi,

I just bought an 8000 grit Japanese waterstone. I'm familiar with the 
procedures for sharpening things with the usual stones, so I don't really
have any questions about that. I'm not sure of the proper way to use the
waterstone though. I understand that it needs to be soaked in water. (Not
much, huh?) How long? Can one leave it in the water? Does one fully immerse
it? Any practices from using a stone with oil that are likely to trip me up?
Oh yeah, It's about 9" x 2 7/8" x 7/8" if it makes any difference.

thanks,
jack
--
jack      mcbryde@karazm.math.uh.edu    * All I ask of Thee, Lord
* Christ died for our sins.  Dare we    * Is to be a drinker and fornicator
* make his martyrdom meaningless by     * An unbeliever and a sodomite
* not committing them? - Jules Feiffer  * And then to die. - Claude de Chauvigny
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: animal@rtp-nc.mentorg.com (ANIMAL)
Subject: Re: WARNING (response to...)
Summary: 
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 16:29:26 GMT
Reply-To: animal@rtp-nc.mentorg.com
Organization: Mentor Graphics Corporation
Keywords: 
Followup-To: 

My understanding is that Amish cannot use electrical power.
I have heard and seen several Amish shops that operate
off of air power. They use gas driven compressors for the power...
---
________________________________________________________
000 000
(_) (_)    animal@rtp-nc.mentorg.com
________________________________________________________
                     ____  
     ^      |\   || |_  _| |\    /|      ^      ||
    /^\     | \  ||   ||   | \  / |     /^\     ||
   // \\    ||\\ ||   ||   ||\\//||    // \\    ||
  //___\\   || \\||   ||   || \/ ||   //___\\   ||
 //_____\\  ||  \ |  _||_  ||    ||  //_____\\  ||_____
//       \\ ||   \| |____| ||    || //       \\ |______|
________________________________________________________
From: rhaar@albert.cs.gmr.com (Bob Haar)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Push Sticks  (was Re: WARNING (respons
Date: 6 Jan 93 19:53:50 GMT
Reply-To: rhaar@albert.cs.gmr.com
Organization: G.M. Research Laboratories

In article 1ifavlINN4tu@shelley.u.washington.edu, martin@biostat.washington.edu (Don Martin) writes:
|>In article <Jan06.155708.33273@yuma.ACNS.ColoState.EDU> mglacy@lamar.ColoState.EDU () writes:
|>>....Various people relate their table saw accidents......
|>>
|>>I appreciate reading the accident stories---really, one can never be
|>>reminded too often.  I'm struck, though, that no one has mentioned
|>>using push sticks as a preventive measure.  Push sticks are easy
|>>to make from scrap, are relatively easy to use, and will eliminate
|>>text deleted
|>
|>Rig small sliding table jigs for small work. These are common for 45
|>degree cuts but right angle and rip cuts are equally useful. The narrow
|>slot in the sliding table ( usually 1/4 ply or 1/8 tempered hardboard for
|>mine) spports small pieces better and it is easier to use a stick
|>to hold the piece and push the table past the blade.
|>

All good suggestions. The use of a sliding cutoff table is particularly
good in cases where a small cuto off piece might be kicked back and 
you cannot use the use the normal anit-kickback devices - such
as making the second cut on rabit or tenon. The back fence and the
bottom of the sliding table act to support the cut of piece. This makes 
less likely to catch and be thrown back. 

Another (simliar, but simpler) method is to attach an auxilliary board
to your miter gauge. If this board is substanially taller than
the cut you are making, you can run the cut right through it and the
part sticking past the blade will still keep pushing the cut off 
work piece.
 




---
  	Robert Haar               InterNet : rhaar@gmr.com 
	Computer Science Dept., G.M. Research Laboratories
DISCLAIMER: Unless indicated otherwise, everything in this note is
personal opinion, not an official statement of General Motors Corp.
From: coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM (Chip Coffin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Fine woodworking wants in....
Date: 9 Jan 1993 01:05:33 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Distribution: world
Reply-To: coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: surfin

In my product ventures, I have been talking with fine woodworking
about stuff, and RWW came up.

The guy there (Barney Dart) wanted to know how to get into RWW.

Could someone tell me how you can become a subscriber with just
a phone line?

thanks,


chip



Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mcovingt@aisun3.ai.uga.edu (Michael Covington)
Subject: Re: Tax Advice
Organization: AI Programs, University of Georgia, Athens
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 00:46:57 GMT

Having a business has *nothing* to do with incorporating.  Plenty of
business activities are engaged in by individuals.

The point is that the IRS taxes net income, not gross income.
If you sell someone a piece of furniture for $500 that cost you $400
to make, you should be taxed on $100, not $500.  That's the reason for
keeping records of all business expenses.

-- 
:-  Michael A. Covington     internet mcovingt@uga.cc.uga.edu :    *****
:-  Artificial Intelligence Programs       phone 706 542-0358 :  *********
:-  The University of Georgia                fax 706 542-0349 :   *  *  *
:-  Athens, Georgia 30602-7415 U.S.A.     amateur radio N4TMI :  ** *** **
From: kl@cveng120.veheng.det (Keith L)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: WARNING (response)...
Date: 6 Jan 93 19:31:39 GMT
Reply-To: kl@cveng120.veheng.det
Organization: General Motors Corporation


My rule is:  If you can't figure out how to do it without subjecting any body parts to a cutting edge --  DON'T DO IT!!!!
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: fkilpatr@afit.af.mil (Freeman A. Kilpatrick)
Subject: Re: Norm's New Season
Organization: Air Force Institute of Technology
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 18:24:10 GMT

richard@TIS.COM (Richard Clark) writes:
>and a sander. No drill press. No jointer. No planer. No biscuit muncher.
>No blivot maker. No squiblet flurbigator... Gimme some ideas on how to
>do some nice things with my limited resources..!

This reminds me of something.  I saw that AMT has a squiblet flurbigator
for $250.  This seems like a ridiculously low price, so I wanted to know
if anyone has used it?  It may have a plastic flywheel, so I am a little
concerned.  The Delta flurbigator is obviously the best, but how often
does one use a flurbigator anyway?

ak
-- 
Alex Kilpatrick  fkilpatr@afit.af.mil  
"There are also persistant rumors that IBM will soon offer a hard-disk drive, 
an expensive accessory that only a businessman would want..."
--- Popular Computing, December 1981
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: WARNING (response to...)
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 23:56:00 GMT

jon@unislc.uucp (Jon Bork) writes:
: 
: I spent some time wondering about the safe way to make a cut
: when the cut is too small for the guard and the fence. My Delta
: guard requires that my Biesemeyer fence can't be set less than 
: 3/4" from the blade. I was cutting a featherboard with 1/8" 
: feathers.
: 
: I went ahead and removed the guard, carefully made each cut
: with no problems, but my goal is to do as much as I can with
: the safety guards in place.

How about clamping a spacer board to the fence? You could even make
a jig.

You could also trim off 3/4" from the side, after the fingerboard
cuts had been made.

Bill
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mcovingt@aisun3.ai.uga.edu (Michael Covington)
Subject: Re: question about transporting a Delta Unisaw
Keywords: tool weight, cast iron, rupture, back ache
Organization: AI Programs, University of Georgia, Athens
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 00:44:05 GMT

If it comes to that, you can hire a moving company for something like
$50 per hour, with crew and tools, to move things.  We have done this
when there was a lot of heavy furniture to be moved around after
remodeling.

-- 
:-  Michael A. Covington     internet mcovingt@uga.cc.uga.edu :    *****
:-  Artificial Intelligence Programs       phone 706 542-0358 :  *********
:-  The University of Georgia                fax 706 542-0349 :   *  *  *
:-  Athens, Georgia 30602-7415 U.S.A.     amateur radio N4TMI :  ** *** **
From: hammong@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com (GORDON HAMMON)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Jewelry Box Plan
Date: 23 Dec 92 16:27:14 EST

A couple of weeks ago I made this post, but somehow it seems to have
disappeared. I did receive one E-mail reply, so I know
someone saw it. Please bear with me.

Does anyone know of a source for a plan for a large jewelry box? I mean one of
the large "armoir" types which is a piece of furniture. The ones I've seen in
the stores around the holidays are poor quality and expensive.

Most of the commercial plans I've seen don't require a high level of skill. A
project like this would be different. Is there some source for high quality
furniture plans which would have a plan like this.

I know I can do my own plan, and may end up doing that if I can't locate one. 
I've built a lot of furniture and haven't used a commercial plan yet, but 
there's always a first time!

Gordon Hammon
Allen-Bradley Co.
Highland Heights, Ohio 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: kl@cveng120.veheng.det (Keith L)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Jointers, Which one to buy?
Date: 11 Jan 93 17:12:50 GMT
Reply-To: kl@cveng120.veheng.det
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.

The only thing I have against my Ryobi jointer is that it is very loud, especially with a dust collector or shop-vac hooked up to it.  The vacuum draws air past the whirring blades and creates a sound like an air raid siren.  If I could have operated and compared noise levels, I probably would have chosen a jointer with an induction motor and a chip chute.  The results I get from the jointer are excellent, so I guess I'll just have to wear my earplugs.
From: coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM (Chip Coffin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta Radial Arm Saw Alignment
Date: 9 Jan 1993 17:16:26 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Distribution: world
Reply-To: coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: surfin

In article 29468@oasys.dt.navy.mil, wthomas@oasys.dt.navy.mil (William Thomas) writes:
>made the unpleasent discovery that radial arm saws don't
>stay in alignment nearly as well as table saws.
>
>I would like to know from the readers an easy way to set the
>vertical aligment of the saw to 90 degrees, especially without
>havingt to remove the blade guard. My problem is that there is
>slopp in the setting before you lock it in place and I would like
>to consistently set it at 90 degrees.
>bill thomas

You will find that when rotating the head, for example, the saw clicks into 90 and 
45 degrees - But it doesn't lock hard into them - there is usually some play.
The idea here is to always reference against one side of the play before you lock
the saw into position. To do this simply apply a force on the saw carriage to the left
or to the right while you engage the locking mechanism.  Make sure you adjust the saw
initially this way, and lock it every time this way.

I have had some pretty good success with this methodology, and I've used radial arm
saws alot (and many different types of radial arm saws).

Let me know how this works for you.


chip

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: Cutting tenons on a table saw
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 19:47:09 GMT

rick@thinker.thinker.com (Rick Yazwinski) writes:
: > 
: > Nibbling away the waste works, but takes a lot of passes on the 
: > table saw, and can take a long time.  The waste block is not
: > a problem, as long as the block is cut on the free side of the
: > blade (as opposed to the fence side.
: 
: I've had a question about this technique for some time now.  What do you 
: do if you have to cut a tenon at the end of a long board (say 8' or longer)? 
: It seems to me that this would be to unweildy to cut vertically (not to 
: mention the ceiling you'd need).

Well, Norm would probably be lost, unless there was a handheld power plane
(or similar) that he could use. I would use a back saw - then smooth the
cut with a chisel.

Bill
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jab3@cec2.wustl.edu (John Alonzo Breen)
Subject: Re: Transferring chip carving designs to wood
Organization: Washington University, St. Louis MO
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 14:54:14 GMT

In article <1993Jan6.175404.3354@mloeff01.cpchq.cpc.gmeds.com>
kl@cveng120.veheng.det writes: 
>Why not use a mirror image of the design printed onto the paper and
>then iron the design off the paper onto the wood?  I do this with
>plans for balsa wood airplanes and for designs to be cut on the
>bandsaw.  Try to create bold dark lines if possible so enough heat-set
>toner is transferred to the wood.

I thought about using just the paper rather than a transparency, but I
figured the toner would come off the transparency easier, being a
smoother surface (but then, it doesn't seem to come off all the way
anyway).  I'll have to run some tests.

In article <1993Jan6.175255.191@ncar.ucar.edu> jweiss@paintbrush.cgd.ucar.edu (Jeffrey Weiss) writes:
>You may be interested in a method my wife uses to transfer photocopies
>to fabric and paper.  I don't know how well it will work with wood,
>however.  Lay the photocopy (the original laser print may also work)
>face down on the wood and brush solvent over the photocopy.  The
>solvent dissolves the ink which is then tranfered to the material
>below.  Also, the image comes out reversed so you will have to deal
>with that.

Can you be more specific on what kind of solvent?  Even if
transferring to the wood doesn't work, it might be good for cleaning
up the wood after I've carved it.

My thanks to both of you.
-- 
John A. Breen                   |
jab3@cec1.wustl.edu             | This space unintentionally left blank
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: chinn@rosencrantz.osf.org (David Chinn)
Subject: Re: Cutting tenons on a table saw
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 22:31:40 GMT

In article <1993Jan5.142021.21624@cbnewsh.cb.att.com> warren@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (warren.a.montgomery) writes:
>When cutting tenons (or lap joints, which is more common for me)
>on a table saw, I discovered that it is usually easier and
>probably safer for me at least to avoid making the cheek cut
>altogether, and instead simply nibble away the waste after making
>the shoulder cut.  This avoids having to support the board in an
>awkward vertical position, avoids cutting off small waste blocks,

I built a simple tenoning jig, which is nothing more than a vertical
surface which rides along the fence.  The workpiece is held in vertical
position, against a stop, and the whole jig slides along the fence.

Nibbling away the waste works, but takes a lot of passes on the 
table saw, and can take a long time.  The waste block is not
a problem, as long as the block is cut on the free side of the
blade (as opposed to the fence side.

In any case, passing an a piece over a table saw vertically without
support really doesn't seem to be a very good idea.
piece
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: Where's Norm? (in NYC)
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 19:39:46 GMT

ALEX@NKI.BITNET (Bill Alexander) writes:
: Speaking of Norm, I haven't been able to find NYW this season in NY (the only
: PBS station I can get is WNET - channel 13). Does anyone know if or when
: WNET still carries it? Another favorite, Victory Garden, has also vanished from
: the airwaves, but that's for another list...

He is still around. The new season is either just about to start, or has
just started. I watched yesterday evening - he built a Shaker trestle table.

Bill
From: kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM (John Kopf,D,6305)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Need Pinewood Derby Track plans
Date: 7 Jan 93 20:33:30 GMT
Reply-To: kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems

Check with your local scout office.

JK
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 11 Jan 1993 13:50:26 EST
From:         Jim Morgan <JMORGAN@BROWNVM.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Need some advise on sharpening old planes

>Posted on 11 Jan 1993 at 13:16:48 by weissborn@DFWVX1.DALLAS.SDS.SLB.COM
>
>Need some advise on sharpening old planes
>
>I have been collecting old planes for the last year and now want to be
>able to use them.  Unfortunately they ALL need sharpening and/or tuning.
>
>  [stuff deleted]
>
>Almost all will need the blades squared and a new bevel.  But my
>question is what degree of bevel do I put on these little gems?
>One source I have says about 20-25 degrees.  Another says to put
>a 45degree on the Jack and 30 deg on the others. I'm confused.
>Does it really matter?
>
>Also, I have a Stanley cabinet scraper (#80 I think).  Do I sharpen
>it like my other scrapers, ie, with a burr, or like a plane-blade
>with a bevel?
>
>Thanks.
>
>Bill Weissborn
>weissborn@dfwvx1.sinet.slb.com

The usual recommendation is to sharpen plane blades at 25 degrees for use
with softwoods and 30 degrees for use with hardwoods.  Blades for block
planes can be sharpened at a slightly more acute angle.  I think that the
confusion you're having arises arises from the distinction between 'cutting
angle' and 'sharpening angle'.  When the blade is held on the frog of a bench
plane, it's edge is presented to the wood at a 40-45 degree angle - this is
the cutting angle.  The blade is sharpened at a more acute angle to allow
clearance at the back of the bevel.  The more acute the angle, the less
resistance there is to the blade entering the wood, but there is also less
metal backing up the edge, and less support for the edge by the plane.

Cabinet scrapers are sharpened like a plane _and_ a regular scraper: First
hone a 45 degree bevel, and then burnish a hook.

Jim Morgan
Brown University
From: kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM (John Kopf,D,6305)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: 3 phase question
Date: 7 Jan 93 20:31:34 GMT
Reply-To: kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems

three phase comes in two forms:

	  A		   A
	  |		  / \
	 / \		 /   \
	B   C		B_____C

Each of A, B, C is 120 degrees phase difference (+ / -) from the other two.

220 is one PAIR of these (such as A-B).  (In the Y configuration A to ground is 110).

So, connecting 220 to A-B in either configuration is the same as connecting 2 wires
of the 3-phase to A-B.  The motor will run, and induce the 3rd phase on C.  But the
motor won't start by itself. 

You can either crank over the motor by hand, use a motor to start it, or apply some
"third phase" to C.  That's what the capacitor does.

JK
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU