HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: isdhm@acad2.alaska.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: WoodWorking
Date: 5 Nov 92 00:29:50 GMT
Article-I.D.: acad2.1992Nov4.202950.1
Organization: University of Alaska

I am stuck in a small city of 3500pop. here in Homer AK...
I need a 70" Band Saw blade...
ANy ideas wwhere I might order one?
--ISLEJ
From: abbott@priory.enet.dec.com (Robert Abbott)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Acrylic Problem
Date: 10 Nov 92 00:53:06 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: TP Performance


In article <BxGoFt.Ku6@ucunix.san.uc.edu>, peterson@ucunix.san.uc.edu (John M. Peterson) writes...
> 
>>
>>I finally got around to cutting some 1/4-inch acrylic for cabinet shelves
>>after a couple of years, but now I find that the paper backing has stuck
>>fast.  I've tried heating a portion, full-strength detergent, soaking
>>in the bathtub (the pieces are there now), and scraping with plastic and
>>wood.  The scraping works, but slowly, oh how slowly.  And I'm afraid to
>>experiments with solvents; I could easily destroy the surface.
>>
>>Anybody had similar experiences?
>>
>>Rob
> 
>After much trying I have found that turpentine is the ONLY thing that
>will do the job.  Wet the surface with turp and keep it wet for about
>an hour, by then the glue is soft enough to scrap off.  This is a slow
>and messy process but does work. ( No mineral spirits will NOT do the     
>same thing.)  Alcohol will do a quicker job BUT, the cooling/shrinking
>of the surface causes it to craze -- visably.  Nice affect if you don't
>need a clear surface, otherwise go the slow turp route.

I have had good luck using acetone to clean the glue and paper from
plexiglass. It does not cloud the plastic and works quickly. Wear
gloves.

> 
------------------------
Robert K. Abbott
abbott@tps.enet.dec.com          
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: Circular Saw recommendations
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 17:03:48 GMT

Larry Meadows writes
> In article <WOODWORK%92111009520768@IPFWVM.BITNET> PH500000@BROWNVM.BITNET  
(Bob Pelcovits) writes:
> >Could you describe the Exac-t-cut system in some detail? Thanks,
> 
> I have ordered one after reading the review in a recent FWW.

It's called the Exact-T-Guide system. It costs about $200 from mail order
places such as Woodworker's Supply.


> Anyway, you should read the review, but it is basically a T-square with
> a long U-channel mounted on a piece of plywood and an arm holding the saw
> that slides in the channel.  Of the 3 or 4 that FWW tested, this one got
> the best reviews.

But the article wasn't happy with any of the units tested. As I recall,
the arm of the Exact-T-Guide, since it's only supported at one end, has
quite a bit of flex in it. I forget the exact amount of play, but it was
a lot more than the 1/100" the manufacturer claims.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Circular Saw recommendations
Date: 10 Nov 92 23:18:00 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <WOODWORK%92110909475021@IPFWVM.BITNET> PH500000@BROWNVM.BITNET (Bob Pelcovits) writes:
>I rip a lot of large plywood sheets using a circular saw; right now I
>use a very cheap Skilsaw. Budget and space limitations prevent me from
>getting a table saw large enough to handle 4x8 sheets, so I will continue to
>use a circular saw.
> I would like to
>get a better circular saw and would appreciate people's recommendations.
>Should I stick with a 7 1/4 blade or go down to 4 1/2? I would like to
>spend less than $150. Thanks,

Rather than make recommendations on circular saws as many others have
done, I'm going to suggest something completely different.  Which will
result, I think, with things being much easier without replacing your
saw.

Build a panel saw.  Shopnotes (#3 or 4) has a construction article for
a simple panel saw that will make cutting 4x8 panels a snap.  It's
essentially a board "holder" with a sliding arm for your skillsaw.
I imagine that you could build it for <$100 and a evening or two.  It
doesn't take up much space, and can even be attached by hinges to a
wall to take up virtually zero space when it isn't being used.

You'll find things much easier and more accurate, and it'll hardly
matter how lousy your skill saw is, until the bearings go...
It'll even be worth while spending money on a really good blade
for your saw - I've always been afraid to spend much on skillsaw
blades due to the risk of dropping the durn thing.

I intend to build one myself in the near future.

Shopnotes is published by Woodsmith.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
From: gph@hpindda.cup.hp.com (Paul Houtz)
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 17:56:33 GMT
Subject: Re: Sharpening and using scrapers
Organization: HP Information Networks, Cupertino, CA
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking


I have used scrapers for a few years, but do not consider myself an expert.
Here is what I have learned:

    Scrapers are for final finishing.   I use planes, sanders etc., to get
    quite close to the finish I want, then give it a sheen with the scraper.

    Now that I have my own planer, I use sanders and hand planes a lot less.

    For finger joints, I take the rough stock and glue off with the belt 
    sander and finish with the scraper.


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: kamooni@pb2esac.uucp (Ken Moonitz)
Subject: Re: WoodWorking
Organization: Pacific*Bell ESAC, Oakland, CA.
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 23:50:01 GMT

In article <1992Nov6.221647.28367@cbnewsd.cb.att.com> bamford@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (harold.e.bamford) writes:
>In article <1992Nov4.202950.1@acad2.alaska.edu> isdhm@acad2.alaska.edu writes:
>>I am stuck in a small city of 3500pop. here in Homer AK...
>>I need a 70" Band Saw blade...
>>ANy ideas wwhere I might order one?
>
KBC tools  1800-223-9666

Travers Tool Co. INC. 1800-221-0270

To name a few, any large machine tool company can mail order them.

Let your fingers do the walking....
From: furr@pilot.njin.net (Grover Furr)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: software for efficient cutting/sheet goods
Keywords: software/cutting/sheet goods
Date: 7 Nov 92 01:59:26 GMT
Organization: Montclair State College, Upper Montclair, NJ


I've seen public domaine software for cutting linear goods. Does
anyone know of a good program for planning and optimizing the cutting
of sheet goods (plywood? If so, email me and I'll post the answers
when in.
	Thanks,

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Grover C. Furr

Home: 121 Oakland Terrace               Work: English Department
      Newark, NJ 07106                        Montclair State College
      ARS AA2GP                               Upper Montclair, NJ 07043
email: furr@pilot.njin.net
       furr@apollo.montclair.edu
 
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Problem with router
Date: 6 Nov 92 19:37:37 GMT
Article-I.D.: hpcvaac.1992Nov6.193737.24501
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA

JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.BITNET (Jeff Roberts) writes:
: On Thu, 5 Nov 1992 15:53:13 -0600 Ralph D Clifford said:
: >     I am having a problem with my router.  It is not holding the bit firmly
: >enough.
:               <text deleted>
: 
:  I had the same problem with my Sears router (1HP).  But my bit slowly worked
:  its way out of instead of up into the collet.  I'll bet if youclean the
:  inside
:  of the collet out with the point of a rag you will get black residue from it.
:  Obviously I'd clean this portion of the router and the bit itself then crank
:  down on the collet with a wrench like you're King Kong.  This fixed my
:  problem

Also, as others have posted before, make sure that the bit is not bottomed
in the collet. Leave 1/4 inch or so for the bit to move when you tighten
the collet collar.

Bill
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: hubcap@hubcap.clemson.edu (System Janitor)
Subject: Re: Tools Made in America
Organization: Clemson University
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 17:11:55 GMT

djk@sequent.com (Darin Klaas) writes:

>daved@convex.com (David Dorfman) writes:

>>I believe Ryobi builds a lot of the tools sold in the US in the US, 
>>the question is are they making the correct amount of profit or passing it
>>back to japan by paying inflated prices for the sub-components?

>All they are required to do is final assembly; i.e. the bulk of the router
>could still be manufactured in japan, with the case being attached to the
>moter in the US, and they could claim it was 'made in the USA'. 

There are a couple of rather large Ryobi ``plants'' near here. I haven't
done research as to what goes on there, but it looks like they do more than
screw on nameplates.

-Mike
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas S. Rand)
Subject: Re: Problem with router
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Date: 6 Nov 92 09:55:27

In article <Bx9JGp.3yx@world.std.com> rdc@world.std.com (Ralph D Clifford) writes:

	I am having a problem with my router.  It is not holding the bit firmly
   enough.  I am using an almost new 1/2" dovetail bit to make half-blind
   dovetails in oak.  When I cut the tails, the bit is slowly pulled up in the
   router.  Needless to say, this screws things up royally.

	The router is a Sears (Yes, I know this is probably the problem.  Forgive
   me, I bought the tool before I knew any better :-) 1-1/2 HP router with a 1/4"
   collet.  The bit is carbide tipped and is sharp.

	Any suggestions to fix the problem would be appreciated.


Well,  you're trying to cut a fairly good sized dovetail in 
hardwood.  You should first use a straight bit to remove most of
the material and then use the dovetail bit.  This will be
easier on the router and the bit.
--
Douglas S. Rand <drand@osf.org>		OSF/Motif Dev.
Snail:         11 Cambridge Center,  Cambridge,  MA  02142
Disclaimer:    I don't know if OSF agrees with me... let's vote on it.
Amateur Radio: KC1KJ
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 13 Nov 1992 09:47:49 -0600
From:         Jeff Roberts <JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.BITNET>
Subject:      Wormdrive saws

Would anybody out there consider explaining the details of these saws such
as application, why it's called "wormdrive" etc.  I'm not familiar with them.

Jeff Roberts  JROBERTS@UTDALLAS
From: talaga@E5SB.OSDHW.SYR.GE.COM ((dave talaga x2752))
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Delta Bandsaw info?
Date: 10 Nov 92 20:16:14 GMT
Article-I.D.: e5sb.9211102016.AA04188
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU

Gentlemen (and ladies),

While tuning up my 14 inch Delta bandsaw I discovered the pully on the lower
 wheel appears to be unbalanced.  Has anyone run into this prob?  Is it possible
 to get "balanced" pulleys for this application?  If so, where and how much?

Thanks for the help in advance.

Dave Brown,
Syracuse, NY
From: kamooni@pb2esac.uucp (Ken Moonitz)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Acrylic Problem
Date: 9 Nov 92 19:12:27 GMT
Article-I.D.: pb2esac.1992Nov9.191227.21326
Organization: Pacific*Bell ESAC, Oakland, CA.

In article <92313.124051RHG@psuvm.psu.edu> RHG@PSUVM.PSU.EDU writes:
>I finally got around to cutting some 1/4-inch acrylic for cabinet shelves
>after a couple of years, but now I find that the paper backing has stuck
>fast.  I've tried heating a portion, full-strength detergent, soaking
>in the bathtub (the pieces are there now), and scraping with plastic and
>wood.  The scraping works, but slowly, oh how slowly.  And I'm afraid to
>experiments with solvents; I could easily destroy the surface.
>
>Anybody had similar experiences?
>
>Rob
>======================================================================
>Robert Gannon              |  Bitnet:    RHG@PSUVM
>35 Burrowes Bldg.          |  Internet:  RHG@PSUVM.PSU.EDU
>Penn State                 |  Phone:     814 355-4800 or 355-0943
>University Park, PA 16802  |  Fax:       814 863-7285

I have used good old alcohol on the exact same problem...
				    Ken
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jssg3464@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (John S. Schmidt)
Subject: dust collector or bomb? help
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 01:45:00 GMT

I am building a dust collection system in my shop.  I am usine 4" PVC pipe to run the vaccum lines to each piece of equipment.  When I told a friend this he    said "You are building a bomb."  He said that the static electricity would build up in the tube and ignite the dust.  To avoid this he suggested running a bare copper wire the length of the system and connecting it to a ground.  Is this    really a concern? If so, is the copper wire the best solution?  Your advice is  needed.  Thankyou.
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Straight Edge for Jointer Alignment
Date: 11 Nov 92 20:01:15 GMT
Organization: LLNL

In article <1dpkacINNlie@news.aero.org>, dgolber@aero.org (Dave Golber) writes:
> 
> In article <697.160.uupcb@pcs.sj.ca.us> paul.burnett@pcs.sj.ca.us (Paul Burnett)  writes:
> >TO: dgolber@aero.org (Dave Golber)
> >
> >
> >DG>My favorite straightedge: Go to a machinist's supply house.
> >  >Ask for "ground flat stock".
> >
> >Plate glass is typically quite flat, to optical tolerances....
> >

I don't know what somebody means by "optical tolerances" but I have yet to
hear of anybody making precision optical components from plate glass.
It certainly isn't flat to 1/4 wave like they need for front
surface mirrors for the diagonal in a reflecting telescope, for instance.

> 
> I'll stick with my ground flat stock.
> 

It's probably good enough, but you ought to check the specs on straightness
over a long distance.  There's got to be a reason why they sell precision
ground parallels as a specialty item if you could get the same thing
just by buying ground flat stock.
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: more on "Foundations of Mechanical Accuracy"
Date: 11 Nov 92 17:37:59 GMT
Organization: LLNL

In article <1992Nov10.202803.16807@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU>, sgs8r@kelvin.seas.Virginia.EDU (Steve Strickland, sgs8r@virginia.edu) writes:
> 
[stuff deleted]
> That said, this is an amazing book. Warning: anyone mechanically inclined who
> sees this book will immediately find themselves lusting for a personal copy.

I lust, already.  Steve this is a fantastic post and a great service
to all of us.  Thank you.

Gary
From: wack@ariel.ncsl.nist.gov (John Wack)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Duginske's book ``Mastering Woodworking Machines''
Date: 10 Nov 92 13:09:29 GMT
Organization: National Institute of Standards & Technology

In article <1992Nov9.200243.13019@ulysses.att.com> smb@ulysses.att.com (Steven Bellovin) writes:
>Has anyone seen the book?  Is it any good?  Is it worthwhile to someone
>who already owns FWW's ``Power Saws and Planers''?  What machines are
>covered?
>
>		--Steve Bellovin

Steve,

I bought the book and think it's great.  At least the section on adjusting
tables saws is more or less the same as his FWW article.  I don't know
what a highly-skilled individual would think of the book, but for me, an
amateur who often is scared of his power tools, I found the book very 
helpful - I used it to adjust my 6" jointer to perfection recently.  It
covers table saws, radial arm saws, jointers, planers, drill presses,
band saws, routers, shapers, probably some others, as well as tips on
cutting various joints with power tools.  I like his attitude as well
on safety and not using a tool, such as a table saw, to do something
like shaping when it could be done more safely using a router or
shaper - he seems to be real finicky on safety.  He also has some 
interesting stuff in there that I've never seen elsewhere, such as 
using a router in a table tends to shorten the life of the router
bearings, since the router is usually on and not touching wood more
so than if the router is hand-held - he recommends foot switches with
router tables to extend their life.

Anyway, the book gets my recommendation.

-John Wack
From: tlp00@climb.as (Tibor Polgar)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: What is the best clear finish on wood?
Date: 9 Nov 92 22:43:50 GMT
Reply-To: tlp00@climb.as
Organization: Sun Microsystems


I've been sealing a lot of maple lately with Verethane "Diamond" satin finish.   The 
darkening is barely noticeable.   On maple at least, the only real effect
is that the red graining becomes more noticeable.   Also the "satin" finish keeps 
the end result from looking plastic.
From: wack@ariel.ncsl.nist.gov (John Wack)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: delta 12" drill press
Date: 9 Nov 92 13:10:55 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: National Institute of Standards & Technology


My local Hechinger's has the Delta 12" drill press on sale for $180,
which happens to be almost precisely how much money I've saved.  If
I had more money, I'd get something bigger, however I'm purely a
weekend woodworker and probably destined to stay that way.  Is there
anyone out there who has negative things to say about this proposed
purchase or would direct me to some other better deal/brand?  Any
comments would be greatly appreciated -- I'm hesitent to buy cheaper
Delta products, as I've had bad luck with the cheaper Delta table 
saw and felt I could've done better with any other taiwanese import.

Thanks,
John Wack
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: lfm@pgroup.com (Larry Meadows)
Subject: Re: Circular Saw recommendations
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 14:52:18 GMT
Organization: The Portland Group, Portland, OR

In article <WOODWORK%92111009520768@IPFWVM.BITNET> PH500000@BROWNVM.BITNET (Bob Pelcovits) writes:
>Could you describe the Exac-t-cut system in some detail? Thanks,

I have ordered one after reading the review in a recent FWW.  Unfortunately,
the manufacturer appears to be so busy selling at trade shows that he hasn't
filled my order yet.  I'll try to post something after I get it and build
some stuff using it.

Anyway, you should read the review, but it is basically a T-square with
a long U-channel mounted on a piece of plywood and an arm holding the saw
that slides in the channel.  Of the 3 or 4 that FWW tested, this one got
the best reviews.

btw, I'm using a Ryobi circular saw now, works great, and I picked it up
for about $90.  I could have spent $120 at another home-club type store.
I actually bought it at a retail lumber yard!

lfm
-- 
Larry Meadows		The Portland Group
lfm@pgroup.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: gwen@seachg.uucp (Gwen Booth)
Subject: Re: Table finish clouded by heat
Reply-To: gwen@seachg.UUCP (Gwen Booth)
Organization: Sea Change Corporation, Mississauga, Ontario, Canada
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 92 16:50:18 GMT

In article <1992Oct30.181624.21981@digi.lonestar.org> ldillard@digi.lonestar.org (Tom Dillard) writes:
>This may be a FAQ, but I haven't seen it.
>
>Our table has a maple top with some type of clear finish.  A section
>of this finish was discolored by a cassorole dish (yes, there were 
>pads under it at the time) leaving the finish milky-white.
>
>Is there anything that can be applied to the finish to remove this 
>discoloration?  The wood does not seem to be damaged; the finish is all
>that is changed.
>
>Thanks in advance for any help you can give.
>-TD
>-- 
>====================================================================
> L.T. Dillard III                        ldillard@digi.lonestar.org
> DSC Communications Corporation
> 1000 Coit Rd, MS 120, Plano Tx 75075

One thing that I have found to work at removing this type of discolouration
(at least on antique mohogany) is brass polish.

Just work it into the stain in a circular motion with a soft cloth and then
buff with a clean soft cloth.  A few applications may be required. (I'd
also test it in an out-of-sight place first.)

I've also heard that toothpaste works well.  Just don't use the gell
kind.


Gwen

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: lester@naomi.b23b.ingr.com (Les Bartel)
Subject: Re: Woodworking humor
Reply-To: lester@naomi.b23b.ingr.com
Organization: Intergraph Corporation
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 16:55:56 GMT

In article <TOML.92Nov8143934@nightowl.xrxedds.UUCP>, toml@xrxedds.UUCP (Tom Love) writes:
|> i saved a few of the (imho) better ones... here they are:
|> 
|> Measure twice, cut once.
|> 
|> Every tool is a hammer - except a chisel;  it's a screwdriver.

And so on ....

Don`t force it.  Get a bigger hammer.

 - les

-- 
Les Bartel			lester@naomi.b23b.ingr.com
Intergraph Corporation		Huntsville, AL
Electronics Division		(205) 730-8537

To the cat, the experimenter is problematic.
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Straight Edge for Jointer Alignment
Date: 10 Nov 92 19:52:55 GMT
Article-I.D.: hpcvaac.1992Nov10.195255.23069
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA

paul.burnett@pcs.sj.ca.us (Paul Burnett) writes:
: TO: dgolber@aero.org (Dave Golber)
: 
: 
: DG>My favorite straightedge: Go to a machinist's supply house.
:   >Ask for "ground flat stock".
: 
: Plate glass is typically quite flat, to optical tolerances....

Nope, not that flat. If you want an optical flat, then you have
to grind it. The procedure is the same as grinding any other flat
surface. You grind three surfaces against each other. 

Plate glass is visually flat only.

Bill
From: dgolber@aero.org (Dave Golber)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Straight Edge for Jointer Alignment
Date: 11 Nov 1992 00:32:12 GMT
Organization: The Aerospace Corporation
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: midnight.aero.org

In article <697.160.uupcb@pcs.sj.ca.us> paul.burnett@pcs.sj.ca.us (Paul Burnett)  writes:
>TO: dgolber@aero.org (Dave Golber)
>
>
>DG>My favorite straightedge: Go to a machinist's supply house.
>  >Ask for "ground flat stock".
>
>Plate glass is typically quite flat, to optical tolerances....
>
Hmmm ... good point.  Indeed, this is what one uses (by laying
wet-or-dry paper on it) to flatten a plane bottom.   But it's
flat ... ON THE FLAT SIDE ... (ha, ha ... but you know what I mean).
So kinda hard to use for a straight-EDGE.

Let's see ... the original writer wanted a straight-edge for checking 
out his jointer table.  Maybe he could buy a narrow piece (1" wide?)
of thick plate glass ...?  Hmmm.  Not a picture I'm crazy about.

Or one could use the plate glass as a reference surface to get a 
good straight-edge in wood or metal?  Sounds like a great way 
to use several hours of time to save $30.

I'll stick with my ground flat stock.

Dave Golber

                                                                 


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: toml@xrxedds.UUCP (Tom Love)
Subject: Re: Woodworking humor
Organization: Xerox EDDS, Herndon, Va.
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1992 19:39:34 GMT

i saved a few of the (imho) better ones... here they are:

Measure twice, cut once.

Every tool is a hammer - except a chisel;  it's a screwdriver.

If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer.

To a child with a hammer, everything looks like a nail.

Measure it with a micrometer, cut it with a chainsaw, fit it with 
a sledgehammer.

Measure with a micrometer, mark with chalk, cut with an axe.

I've cut this board three times and it's still too short.


--

-----

Tom Love
Xerox Engineering Systems / Engineering Document Management Systems
607 Herndon Pkwy, Herndon, VA 22070  Voice 703-787-2027  Intelnet 8-440-2027
				     Fax 703-787-2110
Internet:   toml@xrxedds.com
            toml.herndon@xerox.com
UUCP:       ...!uunet!xrxedds!toml
XNS:        toml:herndon:xerox
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU