HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: sharen@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com (Sharen A. Rund)
Subject: Re: fish water
Organization: Lockheed Missiles and Space Co.
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 92 17:33:15 GMT

In article <1992Apr15.012708.15732@athena.cs.uga.edu> maxfield@athena.cs.uga.edu (Joan C. Maxfield) writes:
>
>	I have 2 fish tanks and ahve to regularly change a portion of
>the water.  I was wondering if I could use this water to feed my
>plants.  I have no problem watering the philodenron or the cacti with
>it but what about veggie plants, ie tomatos and beans etc.  Has anyone
>else tried this?  It seems such a waste to flush 10 gallons of water
>that might be good for fertilizer.  Any ideas?
>
works fine - but if you have other pets, they may like the smell, so
work it in, or make sure they can't get near and start digging -
I also use egg shells and coffee grounds and vegetable cuttings (I put
the veggie cuttings in the blender with some water or leftover coffee
- tea works well too - then our the water blend over the garden
>-- 
>J. C. Maxfield				maxfield@athena.cs.uga.edu
>DISCLAIMER:  I don't speak for the University, but they often speak for me!


-- 
________________       __        ________________   "They that can give up
\_________      \     /_ \      /      _________/  essential liberty to 
 \_________      \_____/  \____/      _________/  obtain temporary safety
  \___________________      __________________/  deserve neither liberty 
                     /______\                   nor safety."  
ALL disclaimers apply ....                           --Benjamin Franklin
From: hnb5164@tamuts.tamu.edu (Heather Noel Bobbie)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: WISH LIST
Date: 6 Apr 92 07:04:21 GMT
Organization: ~/lib/organization

I believe Mary of Plano, Texas may be able to get a Perfumed Delight
rose from RCW Nurseries in Houston, located at highway 249 and
beltway 8.  i worked there last summer and i am almost positive
they had them that season.  so they should have them this season too.
I know it's a pretty long drive, and i'm sorry i haven't the phone
number, but they put the roses in peat pots and they're pretty well
protected.

Also, if RCW sold them, chances are it's a Jackson-Perkins rose, which
means you might be able to mail order from them.  Again, it's
iffy, and again i don't have the number to get a catalog.  i'm sorry,
i wish i could help more.

Xref: sparky rec.gardens:2254 misc.consumers:10119 misc.consumers.house:6043
From: bobl@bobsbox.rent.com (Bob Lindabury, SysAdmin)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens,misc.consumers,misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Seek info. on lawn mawer.
Date: 6 Apr 92 16:37:24 GMT
Organization: Raven Enterprises -- Piscataway, NJ USA
X-NewsSoftware: Amiga GRn V1.28 2/25/92 (Beta) by Mike Schwartz

In article <1992Apr5.220118.22652@u.washington.edu> pmfisher@milton.u.washington.edu (Patrick Fisher) writes:
>I bought a manual lawnmower.  I think it is great.  If you
>do buy one, buy one that is easy to push.  My is a Gardenia from
>Germany.
>	 This is the thing about cutting grass: you really don't need
>to pick up the clippings as long as you cut the grass every week.  Then
>the clippings fertilize the grass that is growing.
>	 A manual will give you good exercise, it is not noisy and
>dirty, it is not as dangerous as a power mower and is less likely to
>break down.  That is why I bought one.
>	 Pat Fisher-
>I hope this helps!

Actually, what you are talking about is a Mulching lawn mower.	Mowers
are designed to be "Mulching" mowers when they cut the grass several
times before dropping it back down on the ground.  A normal rear bagger
can't be used without the bag and a normal side draft mower doesn't
mulch correctly and you will be left with alot of thatch.

You have to get a mower that is specifically designed to Mulch to be
able to leave the clippings on the ground for fertilization.  Mulching
mowers normally only allow cutting of about 1.5" at a time.  If you let
your lawn go for a couple of weeks you must then raise the height of
your cutting deck and then do multiple cuts at various levels making
sure not to cut more than 1.5" at a time or the mulching (chopping of
the grass into fine particles) will be negated.

-- Bob

InterNet: bobl@bobsbox.rent.com 	       | Raven Enterprises
    UUCP: ...rutgers!bobsbox!bobl	       | 25 Raven Avenue
  BitNet: bobl%bobsbox.rent.com@pucc	       | Piscataway, NJ 08854
  Home #: 908/560-7353			       | 908/271-8878
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: larry@bradley.bradley.edu (Larry D. Stratton)
Subject: Re: Orchid help
Organization: Bradley University
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 92 22:31:06 GMT

In <ku15g6INN4p@jethro.Corp.Sun.COM> zara@rossroad.Corp.Sun.COM (Zara Haimo) writes:

>This weekend one of my blooming phalanlopsis plants took an abrupt turn for the worse.  A full spike of open blooms suddenly withered and the two top leaves are turning yellow.  There is still one green leaf below, so I have some hope of saving this plant if I can find out what is wrong.  Does anyone have any ideas on the problem or a solution?

   Did anything about its environment change?  Certain gasses, methane for
   instance, will cause the problem you describe.  It also sounds as though
   it could have had a temperature drop or, an outside chance, too much 
   direct sun burning the leaves.

   Another possibility is virus but without looking at the leaves I 
   couldn't tell.
-- 
"Closets are for clothes" 
"Those who don't know are terminally stupid or virginally new"
"I should have known it was doomed.  I don't like tea."  -Tea for Two
L. D. Stratton   larry@bradley.edu   (309) 693-8500 when all else fails
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis)
Subject: Watering
Organization: OSF Research Institute
	<1992Apr8.113834.3655@iscsvax.uni.edu>
Date: 8 Apr 92 16:52:50

In article <1992Apr8.113834.3655@iscsvax.uni.edu> klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes:

   When watering houseplants, the rule is to fill the pot to the brim,
   let the excess drain out, and dump the excess water afterwards.

I agree that this produces the best results.  But it is hard for heavy
plants (e.g. a 6-foot kentia palm or a 60-pound Cycas+pot (so-called
"sago palm")), especially when the pot sits on the floor.

What is the recommended way to dump the excess water?  Emptying the
dish with a bulb baster?

	-s
From: machanicm@gtephx.UUCP (Mindy Machanic)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: HELP: GRAPES
Summary: grapes are our friends...
Date: 7 Apr 92 18:33:57 GMT
Article-I.D.: gtephx.1992Apr7.183357.4505
Organization: AG Communication Systems, Phoenix, Arizona

In article <1992Apr7.140324.7292@waikato.ac.nz>, poli2031@waikato.ac.nz writes:
> We have just shifted into a new place and it has got a grape vine full of
> grapes.  What is your advice as we are new to this?

EAT THEM!

-- 
--Mindy in Phoenix            
******************************************************************************************
Mindy Machanic  (AG Communication Systems/Quality Engineering, Phoenix, AZ)               
UUCP: ....!{ncar!noao!asuvax | att}!gtephx!machanicm    FAX: (602) 581-4022
From: machanicm@gtephx.UUCP (Mindy Machanic)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: White Flies?
Summary: alcohol works
Date: 17 Apr 92 16:25:11 GMT
Article-I.D.: gtephx.1992Apr17.162511.10296
Distribution: na
Organization: AG Communication Systems, Phoenix, Arizona

In article <65583@apple.Apple.COM>, hammaker@apple.com (Rebecca A. Hammaker) writes:
> I recently noticed little white flies on
> the underside of some of my houseplant
> leaves. When I try to flick them off, they
> fly around making a general nuisance of
> themselves. Could this be the infamous
> "white fly" that I've been hearing about?
> Also - does anyone have any advice on 
> how I might eradicate them? The plants
> I have outside seem to be fine - the
> one in the house is the only one that
> seems to have these pests on it...
> 

Yes, these are indeed the infamous...for indoors plants, I spray the undersides
of the leaves with a diluted rubbing alcohol and dishsoap in water mixture and it 
always works. I think it also works outside, but the little buggers get so bad here
in the summer outdoors that you can't keep up with them. Sometimes, I just spray
the indoor plants with diluted rubbing alcohol and it works, too. If you don't
dilute it, the leaves burn sometimes.

       Mindy
-- 
*****************************************************************************************
Mindy Machanic  (AG Communication Systems/Quality Engineering, Phoenix, AZ)               
UUCP: ....!{ncar!noao!asuvax | att}!gtephx!machanicm      
Internet: gtephx!machanicm@asuvax.eas.asu.edu
From: oopcv@Msu.oscs.montana.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: muddy path
Date: 14 Apr 92 16:08:52 GMT
Reply-To: oopcv@Msu.oscs.montana.edu
Organization: Montana State University

I'm looking for suggestions.  I have a path that goes from the sidewalk to the
yard gate, approximately 6' long.  It was previously unused, but I, the new
owner, use it frequently.  This little path is currently quite muddy, as the
lawn continues to erode from foot traffic.  I would like some suggestions on
what to put down;  gravel comes to mind, but doesn't really appeal to me, and
seems like it would only be a temporary solution.

Requirements:
It must be inexpensive ("free" would be excellent).
It should hold up to traffic (I have two large dogs that really tear things up).
It cannot be too smooth;  ice was a problem before it became mud. 
I should mention the path is relatively narrow, maybe 2' wide between the fence
and the lilacs.

Oh!  It slopes, too.

So there it is:  short, muddy, on a slight incline.

I'm hoping someone has discovered a nifty little solution to something like
this, somehow, somewhere.

Thanks!
Cheryl
From: cgallagh@goya.helios.nd.edu (christopher gallagher)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Habanero, Chili
Keywords: Habanero, Chili
Date: 9 Apr 92 15:21:45 GMT
Article-I.D.: news.1992Apr9.152145.21073
Reply-To: cgallagh@goya.helios.nd.edu (christopher gallagher)
Organization: University of Notre Dame, Notre Dame

Thank you for all the replies.  It seems that everyone who replied has a plant has grown thier plant from seed.  Some got them from a chili that they bought at their local supermarket.  I tried to grow a plant from the seeds od a dried habanero and it did not work so I will assume that the chili must be fresh for the seed to grow.

The people who have grown them say that the grow very slowly.  The people who responded said chilis of any kind will not tolerate frost.

One source for seeds is Shepherd's Garden Seeds in Connecticut.  Their number for a credit card order is (203) 482-3638.  The stock nuber is #1964, cost 1.75$.  Their address is:

	Shepherd's Garden Seeds
	30 Irene St.
	Torrington, CT 06790

A second source is

	St Thomas Vegtable Products
	Box 9519
	St Thomas, VI 00801
	phone # (809) 779-2904

They advertise a grow kit.  It includes domesticated growing instructions, seed and a jar of habanero chili paste.  Price 19.50 + 4.50 S&H.




Thanks

Christopher
From: woodley@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Judy Woodley)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1992 18:46:22 GMT
Subject: Re: SNAILS.....shudder
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.gardens

I believe that racoons eat snails, also.  At least they seem to in my backyard.

--Judy Woodley
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Gypsum, Sulfur, pH, and clay
Date: 8 Apr 92 09:35:51 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

In article <1453300022@igc.org>, ecologycntr@igc.org (Ecology Center Fund) writes:
> 
> Has anyone here had any luck using sand to loosen clay soil?  
> 
> In my experience it tends to make the soil set and harden, not unlike
> concrete.  Might be different with different clays?

My experience with midwestern clays and the stuff that passes for soil in 
Southern California is that a small amount of sand worked into clay produces
a substance that probably wouldn't fragment under heavy artillery fire.

Adding _significant_ amounts of sand to clay (>50% sand) does help-- but
organic matter is the real key to getting clay to behave.  Lots and lots 
and LOTS of organic matter.   If you use lots of organic matter, you
can drop the sand percentage 'WAY down and not get bricks.

Kay Klier
From: bartonh@tekeda.PEN.TEK.COM (Barton T Hickman)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Seek info. on lawn mawer.
Keywords: grass, lawnmowers, greens, mulching
Date: 10 Apr 92 20:12:24 GMT
Reply-To: bartonh@tekeda.pen.tek.com
Distribution: usa
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Beaverton,  OR.

In article <28685@brahms.udel.edu> cbrooks@brahms.udel.edu (Chris Brooks) writes:
>* You might get all of the kids in the neighborhood to mow your lawn for
>free.
>We bought the manual mower so our kids could mow more safely.  It turned
>out that my daughter almost never had to mow herself.  She'd sit out
>front with the mower, and her friends would line up to do the mowing.
>I'm surprised that she didn't charge THEM to do her job.

The kids in my neighborhood (4 or 5 years old ?) had NEVER even seen
a push reel mower!!! (I'm 26, and they made me feel old!)  When told
it was a lawnmower, one kid asked me how I start it.  They were astounded
that something that doesn't have to be started (or turned on) could
actually mow the lawn.  They constantly descend on me wanting to mow
my lawn with the push mower.

One poster mentioned that it is difficult to sharpen these mowers.  I
bought a new one about 1 year ago and the manual shows how to sharpen
the blades (no skill required!!!):
1) Take the mower apart and reverse the 'one-way' mechanism that connects
the blade to the wheels--this makes it so when you push the mower backwards,
the blade turns backwards.
2) Slightly tighten the blade/bar pressure.
3) Put lapping compound (I got some at an auto-parts store--normally used
for valves or something) on the blades and bar.
4) Push the mower backwards until the mower pushes easily (It doesn't hurt
to touch the blades to see if they're sharp.)
5) Wipe off the lapping compound completely and take the mower back apart
to put the mechanism back to the forward position. (Make sure you NEVER
run the mower forward with lapping compound on the blade)
6) Tah-dah!  sharpened mower.

I tried this on my first push mower ($.75 garage sale special) and it worked
like a charm.  As for my present mower, the manual says it shouldn't need 
sharpening for many years.

Bart
From: fmbutt@mrbt.sw.stratus.com (Farooq Butt)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Growing Clematis in pots...
Date: 11 Apr 92 01:26:26 GMT
Organization: Stratus Computer, Software Engineering




Heh, heh, heh, I just blew a large chunk of change on all manner of 
fun bulbs, rhizomes etc.  My questions for you: I am growing clematis
via a "rootlet" that I purchased.  What I bought was a 2 inch thin
piece of what seemed to be live root.  Is this the way this is 
propagated ? If so, is there any net.advice on what to do if 
growing in a large pot ? I am growing on a patio, BTW.  Oh yeah, 
what should I do, come winter ? Dig it up or is it dead in fall ?

Species on the patio: peas, gladioli, morning glory, clematis, 
dahlias, dwarf cannas, Thai "Eagle Claw" chili peppers, and 
of course the Cherimoya tree :-) 


Farooq [frustrated apartment dweller] Butt
-- 
Standard High-Tech Disclaimer: NOTHING  in the above article has the slightest 
relationship to reality. If any reality correspondences are found, please 
notify me IMMEDIATELY. Any threats, abuse or stupidity of any kind is purely 
UNintentional. These are MY Opinions NOT my employer's.
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Good herb books
Date: 7 Apr 92 21:28:20 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

If you've got a Barnes and Noble bookstore near, and you are interested
in herbs (cooking, aromatics, herbal medicines, history of medicinal plants,
etc.), see if they've got Rodales's _Illustrated Encyclopedia of Herbs_ on
sale.  Just picked up several copies in one of the Minneapolis B&N stores
for $2.  A real steal for a $15 book with LOTS of good information.  (And
I think I paid a lot more for my first copy.)

Picture two botanists staggering out the door with a total of 15 copies of
the book...   Plus all the miscellaneous titles we bought...
(yes, the woman is a definite menace in a book store...) 

545 pages of good, solid information including history, cultivation,
pharmacological effects, even dye plants.  Well indexed and sensibly
arranged.   Although the authors seem to be a bit too credulous of 
"cures" from some unproven herbs (at least for my taste), they have at 
least fairly stated possible toxicities and allergies, which is much 
more than most herbal books do.



ALSO: If you're into herbal medicines, check out Varro E. Tyler's
_The Honest Herbal_, published in 1982 by George F. Stickley Co. of
Philadelphia.  The author is a well-respected pharmacologist who has
dug into the pharamcological effects of various popular herbal medications,
and explains them quite well.  He also debunks a lot of "junk herbalism"
along the way.  Tyler is also the author of _Hoosier Home Remedies_, 
published in 1985 by Purdue University Press.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: kraljev@ccu.umanitoba.ca (Gabriel Michael Kraljevic)
Subject: Landscaping design software
Organization: University of Manitoba, Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1992 21:06:46 GMT

Does anyone have any information on software packages (Mac or MS-DOS) that
will allow a person to do planting design?  Specifically, I'm looking for
software that has a library of trees, shrubs, etc that can be pasted and
manipulated into a design.  This software would be used in a small business
to do landscaping consultations, so a higher costing package is not 
unreasonable.  I'd appreciate any information, particularly costs and 
hardware requirements. 

Thank you, kindly,            

Gabe Kraljevic
   
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: dweber@ncsa.uiuc.edu (Daniel Weber)
Subject: Re: Help identify this plant???  :-(
Originator: dweber@nvs.ncsa.uiuc.edu
Reply-To: dweber@ncsa.uiuc.edu
Organization: National Center for Supercomputing Applications
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 19:30:58 GMT


In article <1992Apr13.182657.3798@iscsvax.uni.edu>, klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes:
|> Sounds like Streptocarpus saxorum, of the Gesneriaceae (African violet family).
|> Leaves can be up to 1.25" long, matt green, and softly fuzz.  Sometimes the
|> leaves appear in whorls of three, rather than opposite.  The flowers are
|> 5-lobed, lilac, with a white mouth and tube and usually borne
|> singly or in pairs from axils. The flowers are about 1.25-1.5" wide, and the
|> lower three lobes are larger than the upper two lobes.
|> 
|> Does this sound right?
|> 
|> Kay Klier  Biology Dept  UNI

YES!!!!!!!!!  Well, at least it's a Steptocarpus.  I looked it up in the only
book I could get my hands on here at the office and there it was.  This tome
was rather devoid of information - they referred to it simply as "Steptocarpus"
and listed it's common name as "Cape Primrose".  ????  It didn't really give 
much information about the plant, but the photo was definitely of the same 
species of plant that I have.  HOT DOG.  Now I can look it up in a better
encyclopedia at home and get some good information on it.  Thanks very much
for the help.

				-daniel weber
				dweber@ncsa.uiuc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: ceb@dbrus.Unify.Com (Caroline E. Bryan)
Subject: Re: wish list
Organization: /usr/lib/news/organization
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 92 17:14:29 GMT

In article <1992Apr2.114216.1@hamp.hampshire.edu> dwhitney@hamp.hampshire.edu writes:
>--I think a wish list is a grand idea!  First, because you might have
>tried in vain to track down a plant locally with no success, second
>because it's a shame to pull out and discard extras that are outgrowing
>their space!
>
>My frustration has been with trying to find a WHITE gas plant!  The only
>nursery around sells small ones before they bloom and doesn't guarantee
>colors.  I tried a mail-order house, but the plant was so small and
>spindly it didn't even make it through the summer--in fact it didn't even
>grow one leaf!

Try White Flower Farm, Li(t?)chfield, CT.  They had Dictamnus alba the last
time I looked (several years ago), and their stock has always been excellent.
They cost a little more but they're worth it.  They have mail order and sell
on site.


Carrie		ceb@dbrus.unify.com	x6244
+----------------------------------------------------------------------------+
|   "Age and treachery will always conquer youth and skill."  - Anon.        |
+----------------------------------------------------------------------------+
From: callahan@biffvm.cs.jhu.edu (Paul Callahan)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Growing random weeds indoors (was Re: hallucinogenic plants was illegal plants--lobelia)
Date: 9 Apr 92 23:49:41 GMT
Organization: Johns Hopkins Computer Science Department, Baltimore, MD

jcp@islay.dco.dec.com (Jolly C. Pancakes) writes:

>	When I discovered that some people grew it in gardens,
>intentional, I was flabbergasted. It would be like growing ragweed, you
>know? (Of course, I know someone who grows pokeweed as an ornamental,
>too - no accounting for tastes.)

I'm growing something in my apartment that just sprung up by itself out
of some potting soil.  I imagine it's a very ordinary and uninteresting weed, but
curiosity got the better of me, and I want to let it grow until I can identify 
it.  I transplanted it away from the basil seedlings it sprouted next to and 
now I have it in its own pot.

Has anyone here tried this?  Are there common seeds that somehow survive the 
treatment normally applied to potting soil?  From the shape of its initial
leaves, I imagine it came from a very narrow seed, around 2mmX0.2mm (just 
guessing).  Its true leaves are flattened ovals and look a little fuzzy.  The
stem is very skinny (about 0.3mm after 3 weeks or so) and (if I remember 
correctly) reddish brown in color.  My guess is that it came with the 
soil (Hyponex), but it may have come with the seeds I planted. 

--
Paul Callahan       | "... the 'spineless prickly pear' ... this long-neglected 
callahan@cs.jhu.edu | gift of nature, which now promises to be of as great or 
                    | even greater value to the human race than the discovery 
BIFF WHERE ARE YOU? | of steam."                      -- Luther Burbank, 1911
From: lb2r+@andrew.cmu.edu (Lorraine Blasik)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Ground cover rec.
Date: 13 Apr 92 16:10:45 GMT
Organization: Comp & Comm - Administration, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA

I would like to put a ground cover on my hill-side going up the drive
way(400'). I need something that won't be "Attack of the Killer Ground
Cover" and something that won't bother the lilies I plan to put in this
weekend.  Also, since our driveway is 400'( although I only need
covering on one side) it must also be affordable.  All suggestions
appreciated

Thanks in advance

Lori
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis)
Subject: Re: SNAILS.....shudder
Organization: OSF Research Institute
	<#clj1t_.sss@netcom.com> <1992Apr6.044705.24132@cbfsb.cb.att.com>
	<15153@drutx.ATT.COM>
Distribution: usa
Date: 8 Apr 92 12:02:33

In article <15153@drutx.ATT.COM> seb1@leia.dr.att.com
(131010000-BadianS(DR1510)43) writes:

   |> Yes, ducks and geese eat snails.  Also hedgehogs.
   |> ...horticulturalist...knows of nothing else that eats snails,

Of course, people eat snails (*), too.  Maybe you ought to consider
changing the definition of your garden from a vegetable garden to a
snail farm...?

	-s

(*) The snobby don't translate the French name `escargots'.  Or maybe
    the ignorant feel better eating `escargots' than `snails'.