HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: kasha@twolf6.CE.YALE.EDU (Dan B. Kasha)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Subject: Re: look pedals
Date: 9 Apr 92 15:22:33 GMT
Article-I.D.: cs.1992Apr9.152233.13947
Reply-To: kasha@twolf.ce.yale.edu
Organization: Yale Dept of Electrical Engineering

I have had for about 5 years now the cheapest looks, that are comprable
to yours, soft with no adjustment.  I have never come out unintended unless
my cleat was in bad shape.  The Cleat should smoothly 'click in'.  I have
found that sometimes I have to push hard and wiggle my feet to get it to
hold, without that nice 'click', which has always been due to two things.

1)  The shoes have different curvature of the sole.  If the cleat is
forced to curve too much, it will not fit in nicely.  I adjust this
by putting a penny under the cleat by the front single screw,ie I shim
it a bit.  That solves the problem %100

2)  When the cleat gets thin and the rear edge gets real mucked up with
chips and the like it stops feeling  nice.  I use a file to clean it up.

But Otherwise, no problems, I actually prefer them to the shimano 600 ones
on my other bike.

Dan

PS, should I cc this to rec.motorcycles?
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
From: chandler@wc.novell.com (Mark Chandler)
Subject: Re: Low Profile brakes=low performance braking?
Organization: Novell, Inc. - Walnut Creek
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 17:00:43 GMT

In article <12441@tamsun.tamu.edu> macintyr@mips.uucp (Craig MacIntyre) writes:
>In article <0duvqGu00iV18_U6FA@andrew.cmu.edu> cm43+@andrew.cmu.edu (Christopher L. Morrow) writes:
>>Shimano tool' to set them up properly, but some how, possible through
> ^^^^^^^^^^^^^      
>this makes setting them up easy but it is not needed.
>
>>indicate that they are by far the best set up brakes we have seen, the
>>lock up almost immediatly and hold in all conditions we could test them
>>in, didn't try water yet.  I guess they are just really hard to set up,
>
>Part of the reason that they are wonderful is the servo-wave levers.
>These make standard XT brakes wonderful too.  (I have old XT with
>Servo-wave levers)  If you have set things up properly they are
>fantastic brakes -- truly two finger brakes.  
>
>I have used the Dia Compe 987's (I think, the cheaper of their low
>profile ones--the ones that are the *lightest*) and they don't break
>very well.  The newer ones are better but cannot compare to the XT
>servo wave setup.

The 987s are Dia-Compe's top-of-the-line cantilever.  The 986 is the
brake that preceded the 987.  The 986 does not have the power that the
987 has.  Most folks that complain about the 987's (or even 986's)
lack of braking power don't set them up correctly.  The straddle cable
should be as flat as possible.  At the minimum, it should be at a 90
degree angle to the arm when the pads contact the rim.

Dia-Compe made the 987's arms taller so you'd get adequate tire clearance
when the brake is set up correctly.  I've seen countless 987-equipped
bikes (in shops) where the straddle cable is several centimeters too
long -- no wonder people complain that the brakes don't perform well.

And yes, the 987s can't compare to Shimano's Serve-Wave setup -- the
Dia-Compes don't have as many moving parts. ;+)

>#############################################################################
># Craig MacIntyre		Graduate Student, Mathematics Department    #
>#  macintyr@bigmips.tamu.edu             Texas A&M University               #
>#############################################################################


--
Mark Chandler               Novell, Inc.          510/975-4522
chandler@wc.novell.com      Walnut Creek, CA      510/938-2562 FAX
==================================================================
     The opinions expressed above are mine, not my employer's.
From: sbixby@cup.portal.com (Steven W Bixby)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Subject: Re: QR seat posts ... thieves' paradise
Date: 7 Apr 92 17:22:41 GMT
Organization: The Portal System (TM)

Curt Vaughan asks:
>It finally happened to me last week ... some @#$% QR'd the seat and
>post off of my mtb.  I often wonder where these jerks sell stuff such
>as this, and how much they actually get for their "efforts."  The combo
>cost an arm and a leg to replace, and I hate having to carry the doggone
>seat and post around with me.  Short of replacing the QR with a regular
>bolt, has anyone come up with a method of securing a QR at least enough
>to slow the thief down?

Assuming you're talking about an ATB if you use QR seatpost, get a 
Hite-Rite spring for your bike.  This is a little spring that connects 
to the seatpost and to the QR skewer with locknuts.  The primary use is
to be able to drop your saddle for difficult downhilling - it's far more
stable to get behind the saddle, which is difficult for most of us to do
when the saddle is at full height.  Then, when you're back into cruising
country, just pop the QR lever and the seat will bounce back up to the
original position.

The side effect is that a potential thief will have to have a pair of
wrenches or pliers to be able to remove the seat & post - if they have
those tools, you might just as well as kiss your bike goodbye anyway.

Another alternative is a cable especially for that purpose - it loops
through both the frame and the seat rails.  I can't tell you how it goes
on or anything - I just know my sister has one on her bike and it
effectively locks the seat on to all but monster sidecutter pliers or
boltcutters.  Not too heavy, either.

Finally, do like everyone else I knew in college - just pop the seat/post
off and stuff it in your backpack.

   -swb-   (Steve Bixby - sbixby@cup.portal.com)
From: einart@sail.LABS.TEK.COM (Einar Traa)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Subject: Re: Valve Nuts
Date: 10 Apr 92 16:24:23 GMT
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Beaverton,  OR.

I discovered the hard way why you don't want valve nuts.

After the tire had been pumped up I had dutifully snugged up the valve nuts
on my bike.  Then I discovered the hard way that a valve nut that is snug
at 115 lbs/sq.in.  can not be taken off without pliers when you have a flat.

Try that one 30 miles from nowhere.   I don't use valve nuts now, don't
see any good reason to have them on my bike.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
From: bg055@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Stewart Rowe)
Subject: Re: Cincy/Dayton Bike Path???
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio, (USA)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 92 00:42:03 GMT


As far as I know, there is no Cincinnati-Dayton bike path, and I have heard
nothing about one being planned. (In spite of the return address on this
post, I live in Cincinnati and bike heavily in the surrounding area.)
  You may be thinking about the Little Miami River Bike Path, which goes
from near northeast Cincinnati about 23 miles toward Xenia. Another section
has recently opened from Xenia to Yellow Springs. However, local
opposition has prevented bringing the south end closer to Cincinnati,
and money has delayed any further move north, though another 10 miles
or so are planned.
  There is also a Dayton Bike path, which goes from about 13 miles
south of the center of Dayton to about eight miles north, mostly
on a levee along the GREAT Miami River (30 miles west of the LITTLE
Miami River.
  So I expect to do my riding towards Dayton on state highways and
county roads for a good many years.
Xref: sparky rec.bicycles:8802 rec.autos.driving:2207 ca.driving:798 rec.motorcycles:12414
From: grenley@cirrus.com (George Grenley)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles,rec.autos.driving,ca.driving,rec.motorcycles
Subject: Re: Car vs Cycle vs Bike vs Ped--The Main Point
Date: 7 Apr 92 19:13:57 GMT
Organization: Cirrus Logic Inc.  Fremont, California

In article <iusuiB1w164w@banana.ithaca.ny.us> chucks@banana.ithaca.ny.us (Chuck Schultz) writes:
>One of the biggest problems in city traffic is the law that says
>you must stay as far to the right as possible.  This creates a
>mindset in riders that they have to stay next to the curb, and
>drive around parked cars and other obstructions, such as drains,
>etc.  They would be much safer by asserting their right to a part
>of the _traffic_ lane, and riding in a straight, predictable line. 

They won't be safe there if I'm on the road.  Now get the bicycle crap
OFF rec.mc, now, please.  Or the next one of you I see is going to
be "cross posted" 8-).

We're bikers. We just don't care.  We don't have to.

>If traffic is slow enough, I even ride in the middle of the lane,
>to make sure I don't get squeezed.  

Bad idea.  I squeeze anyway....
>Also, I don't pass cars
>stopped at a stop light.  I stay in line, rather than tick off
>somebody who will soon be behind me.

good idea.  another good idea is NOT TO POST IN REC.MC!!!!
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
From: sagerian@delphinium.UUCP (Steve M. Sagerian)
Subject: Re: Commuting on a Bicycle
Originator: sagerian@apricot43
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1992 16:44:15 GMT

Last year I cycled to work once. This year I plan to ride 2-3 days (M,W,maybe F). Its 33 miles one way from my home to work, so I can't help but get sweatty.
The company I work for does not provide showers for employees so I have the following routine once I arrive at work.

1. Cool down, right now its cool in the mornings so just walking in from the bike rack to the build is all thats required but as the temp goes up this summer, allow ~10 minutes or more. 
I fill my  water bottle with some EXCEED powder that I keep in a plastic baggie  and drink this once I get to work..this helps me to cool down. 

2. Since we have no showers, and I have already showered and shaved at home prior to leaving for work, this makes sponge bathing in the restroom simple.
I like to use the handicapped stalls (more room), I sponge off first using a hot  water on the wash cloth, then after I gone over myself completely once, I put some rubbing alcohol on the wash cloth and do it again(watch out for road rash ;-). 
Then I dry off using a small hand towel. 
Finally I do put some deodorant on as a safe guard.
 
This all takes some planing on my part.
1. bring work clothes into work the day prior to the ride.
2. have stash of wash cloth, towel,rubbing alcohol, deodorant, misc stuff at work.

It seems to work, I havent got any complaints for my coworkers. 

Finally: sponge bathing in the restroom is not considered normal behavior so be prepared to take some remarks from coworkers, just keep your chin up and think of the great work out you just had! 
 
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
From: andrew@b3.ingr.com (Andrew Stephens)
Subject: Re: QR seat posts ... thieves' paradise
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1992 17:28:39 GMT

sbixby@cup.portal.com (Steven W Bixby) writes:

>Curt Vaughan asks:
>>It finally happened to me last week ... some @#$% QR'd the seat and
>>post off of my mtb.  I often wonder where these jerks sell stuff such
>>as this, and how much they actually get for their "efforts."  The combo
>>cost an arm and a leg to replace, and I hate having to carry the doggone
>>seat and post around with me.  Short of replacing the QR with a regular
>>bolt, has anyone come up with a method of securing a QR at least enough
>>to slow the thief down?

>Assuming you're talking about an ATB if you use QR seatpost, get a 
>Hite-Rite spring for your bike.  This is a little spring that connects 
>to the seatpost and to the QR skewer with locknuts.  The primary use is
>to be able to drop your saddle for difficult downhilling - it's far more
>stable to get behind the saddle, which is difficult for most of us to do
>when the saddle is at full height.  Then, when you're back into cruising
>country, just pop the QR lever and the seat will bounce back up to the
>original position.

>The side effect is that a potential thief will have to have a pair of
>wrenches or pliers to be able to remove the seat & post - if they have
>those tools, you might just as well as kiss your bike goodbye anyway.

>Another alternative is a cable especially for that purpose - it loops
>through both the frame and the seat rails.  I can't tell you how it goes
>on or anything - I just know my sister has one on her bike and it
>effectively locks the seat on to all but monster sidecutter pliers or
>boltcutters.  Not too heavy, either.

>Finally, do like everyone else I knew in college - just pop the seat/post
>off and stuff it in your backpack.

>   -swb-   (Steve Bixby - sbixby@cup.portal.com)
   


There is a lock available to keep those meanies away from your happy 
days -- I saw it in Performance or Nashbar, cant remember which. It 
was a tiny addition to your quick QR making it lockable. If anyone 
sees it, let us know!!!
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
From: les@SAIL.Stanford.EDU (Les Earnest)
Subject: Re: Help with Cat IV/V Distinction
Organization: Computer Science Department,  Stanford University.
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1992 03:47:06 GMT

Brian Stein writes:
>About to race, or at least thinking about it (and yet to get the Bicycle
>issue with the Cat IV/V run down), there are a few things I would like to
>know:

Sheesh -- another cyclist who so admires Roman culture that he thinks
categories 4 and 5 should be made more elegant.

>    - How long is the average race in the novice (V?) class and what do
>      the riders average

Generally as short as the organizer can get away with and still induce
you to ride -- say, 12 miles for a criterium, double to quadruple that
for a road race.

>    - What is a typical course layout?

A four corner course about 1 km. long for a crit., A 15 km. (or so)
loop for a road race, and 20 km. out-and-back for a time trial.

>    - Are there as many crashes as I imagine from reading all of posts here?

I don't know how imaginative you are, but it happens.

>    - Why wouldn't someone get the international license (is the cost not the
>      same?)

You have to provide passport photos with your application in order to
get an international license.  (In my opinion, all licenses should
include photos, but the staff has successfully resisted this scheme so far.)

>I know, the best way to find out is go, watch, then race.  I will.  Also, if
>anyone has some advice/hints on how to stay clear of pile-ups, please let
>me know.

Break away on the first lap and stay out in front.
--
Les Earnest                                  Phone:  415 941-3984
Internet: Les@cs.Stanford.edu              USMail: 12769 Dianne Drive
UUCP: . . . decwrl!cs.Stanford.edu!Les         Los Altos Hills, CA 94022
From: sprocket@cbnewsi.cb.att.com (dean.s.jones)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Subject: I am a MTB race promoter!!!  Questions...
Keywords: MTB, race, nj
Date: 8 Apr 92 20:41:51 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T



Hi Yall',

	I am about to become a race promoter!!!  I am putting the
finishing details on my MTB race, the ``Round Valley Rumbler'' in
Lebanon, NJ. I really want this to be a memorable event, and I am
interested in opinions as to what makes a great MTB race great...

	The race in on an 8.75 mile loop.  1 Mile of grassy, open
field kinda stuff. 4.75 miles of hellish rocky hilly single-track 
nastyness. 3 miles of leg draining jeep-road.

	So far I have about $1500.00 on Cash/Mdse lined up for my
prize list.

	I was planning on the following classes:

	1 lap 8.75 miles

		Beginner Men
		Beginner Women
		Junior

	2 lap 17.5 miles

		Sport Men
		Sport Women
		Vets 35+

	3 lap 26.25 miles

		Pro/Expert Men/Women

	Does anyone have any comments on what the prize lists and
cash payouts should look like?  What ``other'' things make a good
race memorable?  Anything.

					Dean Jones
					AT&T Bell Labs
					Holmdel, NJ
					dean@hos1cad.att.com

					MTB Coordinator TEAM REACTION
From: mce5921@bcstec.boeing.com (Martin Emde)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Subject: Mountain Bike Recommendation?
Date: 9 Apr 92 13:19:53 GMT
Organization: Boeing Computer Services, Seattle

Would anyone out there like to recommend a mountain bike that is in the 
range of $400 to $600?  Must be tough and have shimano components.

Thanks in advance,

Maritn
From: dok_hfa@pki-nbg.philips.de (Hans Juergen Faerber)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Subject: Re: Race results : Paris-Roubaix
Date: 15 Apr 92 05:57:42 GMT

From article <1992Apr13.200512.10690@csi.uottawa.ca>, by kiisaka@csi.uottawa.ca (Ken Iisaka (the mad pianist)):
> Did Greg LeMond use suspension forks this year?
> 
Duclos-Lasalle did, one could see it in TV. Duclos-Lasalle and
Greg Lemond are in the same team, so I think Greg used suspension
forks, too.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | Philips Kommunikations |Voice:  +49 911 5262974 
                    |      Industrie AG      |Fax:    +49 911 5263545 
Hans-Juergen Faerber|  Techn. Documentation  |E-Mail: 
                    |   Nuremberg, Germany   |dok_hfa@pki-nbg.philips.de
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
From: pjs@netcom.com (Philip J. Schneider)
Subject: Kestrel advice wanted
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 92 01:56:51 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Keywords: Kestrel, advice, wanted

One of these days, hopefully not too far in the future, I'm
gonna spring for a new "high-end" bike. One of the candidates
(if only for completeness's sake :-) is the Kestrel (probably
a 200 SCI or 200 EMS).  I'd like to solicit advice from folks
who either own them, or otherwise have a base of experience 
from which to offer useful information. "Friend-of-a-friend"
and other indirect information is OK, too -- just please 
identify it as such :-) :-) I'm also *not* interested in
starting yet another quasi-religious frame-materials-war thread :-)

What I'm concerned about is *handling*.  Older Kestrels were
popular mainly with triathlon competitors, for reasons having to
do with their low weight, rigidity, aerodynamics, and good
straight-line handling.  Reviews of these (like the 4000 model)
invariably mentioned that the handling (as in turning, etc. :-)
was not as good as other high-end bikes (mentioning things like
"wheel flop" in turns, relatively inferior "quickness", etc.)
The relative lack of popularity of these bikes among road racers
was probably at least partly due to this apparently accurate
perception.

Kestrel has made *many* changes to geometry and materials and
construction technology, and now offer a composite fork that is
rumored to be *very* good.  My question is : have these changes
resulted in a bike with handling ("quickness", control, etc.)
that is comparable to such bikes as a Serotta Colorado II or
a Merlin Titanium, or high-end Italian frames?  I know some folks
might answer that I should make this judgement via test rides.
Unfortunately, I don't feel I have the experience to judge
this sort  of stuff well  in the amount of riding one has 
available on a test ride (this sort of thing seems to be the
general problem with test riding  --  I think it takes at least
a few days or weeks to really get an accurate "feel" for
a bike).

So, I'd like to hear folks' views, experiences, comparisons, etc. --
anything which I can use to help me make a more informed decision
(of *course* I'll test ride as well :-)

Thanks!

-- Philip Schneider
From: ctillier@phoenix.Princeton.EDU (Clemens E. Tillier)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Subject: Re: riding up stairs
Date: 17 Apr 92 03:01:57 GMT
Organization: Princeton University
Originator: news@ernie.Princeton.EDU

In article <9204162127.AA04812@hplomg.hpl.hp.com> BRANDT_JOBST/HP1900_01@HPLOMG.HPL.HP.COM writes:
>Paul Hutmacher writes:
>
>> Now that we've established that it's ok to ride a properly maintained
>> ATB down stairs, could a few of you rad riders give me some hints on
>> your techniques for riding up stairs?
>
>A couple of steps, OK, but stairs sort of defies bicycling because they
>are steeper than any road you will ever find.  The generally run at a
>greater slope than 50%.  I don't recall seeing any such roads nor do I
>relish the thought of riding up them.  If stairs were flat they would be
>much like riding down (except for the landing) but they are not so all
>the stair climbing must also be accomplished with the difficulty of
>balancing at less than walking speed and traction and timing of stair to
>pedal overlaid on strenuous climbing make this a task for special
>equipment and a skilled stunt artist.  I am not a volunteer.
>
>jobst_brandt@hplabs.hp.com

No really, try it some time. You don't need to be crazy or to be a stunt
artist. It's done at faster than walking speed (no balancing to do), and
your momentum carries you right up so there's little effort in it- mainly
lifting up the front. I do agree that timing your pedal stroke is important,
but if you do any sort of off-road riding it should be a natural skill.

Cheers,
Clem Tillier

ctillier@phoenix.princeton.edu
From: auidcc@ducvax.auburn.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Subject: Bike shops - Atlanta area?
Date: 6 Apr 92 13:06:32 GMT

My son has a Kuahara freestyle bike in excellent condition, but now wants
a mountain or all terrain bike.   There is apparently no market for
freestyle bikes in this area, so the bike shops will not even talk about
taking the Kuahara in trade.  Are there any bike shops in the Atlanta
area that deal in both types of bikes and might make a decent trade-in
deal?

Thanks,

Steve Ensminger
Auburn University
From: BEJ102@psuvm.psu.edu (Bryan Jones)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Subject: Keeping toes warm, was Re: Thanks to Bill and Richard; deodorant
Date: 17 Apr 92 12:46:19 GMT
 <stephenm.703168242@p4.cs.man.ac.uk> <tr.703271669@samadams>
 <1992Apr17.014750.11205@husc3.harvard.edu>
 <1992Apr17.111450.11980@synapse.bms.com>
Organization: Penn State University

In article <1992Apr17.111450.11980@synapse.bms.com>, idelson@idg02.bms.com (Ira
Idelson) says:
>
>I bought a product called Gator Tips a while back. These are neoprene toe
>covers that are supposed to fit over your toes in your cycling shoes.
>However, when cycling shoes fit properly there is no room to layer socks
>or other stuff. So, I slipped these Gator tips over the toes on the out-
>side of my shoes, cutting an opening on the bottom for the Look cleats.
>These work great for cool (40's) temps but are no substitute for booties
>in the cold weather.
>

For those of you that still have toe clips - wrapping duct tape around
the oustide of the clip does wonderous jobs at keeping your feet warm on
a cold ride.


I guess you could try it with clipless - but you'd get that tape goo
all over your shoes......


Bryan
From: olson@husc8.harvard.edu (Chip Olson)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Subject: Re: Do clipless pedals hold tenaciously in an accident?
Date: 16 Apr 92 02:47:50 GMT
Organization: Spam-On-A-Rope Inc.
In-reply-to: scott@mks.com's message of Wed, 15 Apr 1992 16:19:58 GMT

In article <1992Apr15.161958.20867@mks.com> scott@mks.com (Scott Nicol) writes:
>   Contrary to what some here will say, it is possible to pull your feet
>out of clips + straps.

for example, when you're in a line of cars passing a very recent accident,
with the cars still blocking the lane and the drivers yelling at each
other, and you suddenly notice broken glass all over the road in front 
of you... you can get out of the clips, off the bike and have the bike
on your shoulder *amazingly* fast...

'case you hadn't guessed, this happened to me once.  Oh, and contrary to
Scott's contention, ski bindings *are* connected to your brain... they
know exactly when you're bombing down a liftline showing off to the captive
audience overhead, and are engineered to release in this situation.

--
-Chip Olson. | olson@husc.harvard.edu | ceo@gnu.ai.mit.edu (seldom used)
"So come all ye lovers of the Good Life, your children playing in the sun,
And set a sympathetic flag a-flying, and be there when the Dutchman comes..."
                                      -Jethro Tull, "Flying Dutchman"