HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: ceci@lysator.liu.se (Cecilia Henningsson)
Subject: Re: more on indoor christmas trees
Organization: Lysator Academic Computer Society, Linkoping University, Sweden
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1992 17:37:41 GMT

ramirez@julia.math.ucla.edu (Alice Ramirez) writes:
[fine article about using a Yule tree that rhymes with your local flora]

>  Of course, you can't really stand around a potted Ponderosa Lemon singing
>"Oh Tannenbaum" and keep a straight face..... 

You really can't do it standing around a normal Yule tree either, as
"Tannenbaum" means fir tree, and not spruce. The author of the lyrics
obviously wasn't a botanist. For the moment the German word for spruce
escapes me, could someone refresh my memory? I suppose
"Weihnachtsbaum" would do, at least at this time of year.

der Tannenbaum, die Tannenbaeume - fir
der Weihnachtsbaum, die Weihnachtsbaeume - Yule tree
Weihnachten - Yule (or Christmas, if you prefer the appropriate religion)

I won't give you the lyrics to the nasty version of the song. ;)

--Ceci, it's nice to be able to be ethnocentric about several cultures :)

--
=====ceci@lysator.liu.se===========================================
"Convictions cause convicts." Robert Anton Wilson
"But don't let that become a conviction!" Ceci
===================================================================
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: lady slipper seeds
Date: 18 Nov 92 07:20:51 GMT
Article-I.D.: iscsvax.1992Nov18.132051.8814
Distribution: rec
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

In article <1992Nov12.221830.10954@mks.com>, fred@mks.com (Fred Kratky) writes:
> In article <1992Nov11.115914.8615@iscsvax.uni.edu> klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes:
>>In article <ALS.92Nov10183638@bellatrix.linus.mitre.org>, als@linus.mitre.org (Alice Schafer) writes:
>>> I live 25 miles west of boston with piney woods with pink ladyslippers
>>> scattered here and there.  For the first time, I noticed that one of
>>> them has a seed pod! 
>>.  We *really* don't know what we're
>>doing on native orchid germination techniques or transplanting techniques.
> 
> Orchid germination techniques are quite well documented, but from what I
> am told it is rather difficult to do without the correct equipment.  The
> seeds are exceptionally small, and must be germinated in an agar
> solution under sterile conditions (I think that the sterile part is what
> is hard to do).  
Sterile is easy.  Anyone with a pressure cooker can manage sterile.  The 
hard part is WHAT germination media to use (what salts, how much sugar,
what source of water, which agar or gelling agent....).  The best I
know of for Cypripedium species, Carson Whitlow, gets about 70% initial
germination, and might get 1% big enough to survive the first winter
after transplanting.  Carson and I are still playing with his germination
media, and it is amazing the difference between batches, when all you've
switched is the (supposedly "inert") gelling medium.   The media we're
using are pretty different from the commercially available flasking media.

> I am not aware of any differences between native and non-native
> germination techniques, but then I'm no expert.

Tropical genera that are popular with hobbyists (Cattleya, Laelia,
Oncidium, etc.) are pretty amenable to flask germination.  Of course
part of the reason they ARE popular, is that they can be produced in
large enough numbers easily enough to make the plants affordable.
Even I can flask Cattleya, but I sure have no luck with Platanthera.
Sigh.


Kay
Newsgroups: rec.gardens,misc.rural
From: london@sunSITE.unc.edu (Larry London)
Subject: Re: Fruit & Nut trees
Organization: University of North Carolina, Chapel Hill
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 06:31:42 GMT

In article <1eph3qINNhku@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> bj368@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Mike E. Romano) writes:
>
>  Gee, I am glad to see postings from this part of the continent.
>I have toured British Columbia a number of times, met some
>people who had recently settled in the Queen Charlottes and
>of course have read of the great totems and traditions of the
>Native People of that region.
>
>It also  appears that there is Usenet access up there, at least
>for certain  newsgroups; the world is getting smaller.
>
>Anyway I have some files of fruit and nut tree production but
>this climate region where you are: if possible  can you give
>temperatures, low and high for the year, approx temps for
>May through October, and also is there heavy wind exposure,
>perhaps a local weather bureau station would have some of this
>info.
>It would help immensely in determining viability of trees.
>
>
>-- 
>Capt. Kirk: let's head for that planet, third from the sun, it
>            looks promising.... |-)


Newsgroups: rec.gardens,alt.bonsai
From: johnson@swings.enet.dec.com (Dennis M. Johnson)
Subject: Re: Christmas tree alternative?
Reply-To: johnson@swings.enet.dec.com (Dennis M. Johnson)
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 20:29:25 GMT


|>|>
|>|> I heard somewhere, (i don't know where) that many bonsai are
|>|> poisonous. Anyone know the true knowledge?
|>|> 
|>|> Jennifer Cole-Steele
|>
|>I don't where you heard that, bonsai are just dwarfed versions of
|>normal forest trees.
|>
|>Never heard of a poisonous oak or pine.
|>
|>-- 
|>David Hamilton                         Email:  dhamilton@gssec.bt.co.uk
|>BT, Glasgow Engineering Centre,        Phone:  +44 41 553 2116
|>229 George Street, Glasgow, UK G1 1BZ
|>

poison oak is a bush, not a tree, that grows in the states and is indeed 
poisonous. Bonsai, for the most part, are not poisonous unless you pick a 
poisonous species to appear treelike. I've never heard of anyone trying to
make a poison oak into a bonsai.

Dj
From: ztac18@hou.amoco.com (Tom Chaimov WWNV x5076 9.134)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Are my carnations dead?
Date: 23 Nov 92 15:43:51 GMT
Reply-To: ztac18@hou.amoco.com
Organization: Amoco

I got some carnations through mail order a couple of months ago.  I planted
them promptly in some nice soil.  When planting, many looked kind of like
greens that you leave in the fridge too long, kind of slimey.  I called the
seller after about a week, and they assured me that they'll be up in the
Spring.

Well, there are about three out of the several dozen plants now that appear
to have any life left in them.  My question:  Am I due a refund?

Pertinent info:  Houston climate (and, actually, it's been pretty good
growing weather lately), no bug problems.

Thanks.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: ramirez@julia.math.ucla.edu (Alice Ramirez)
Subject: test
Organization: UCLA Mathematics Department
Distribution: ca
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 92 01:53:04 GMT

test
Sorry.  But an entire day with "0" messages in rec.gardens
aroused my suspicions that my system suffers from evil elves
From: GE777009@brownvm.brown.edu (Jenna Cole-Steele)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Christmas tree alternative?
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 13:26:10 EST
Organization: Brown University - Providence, Rhode Island  USA
NNTP-Posting-Host: brownvm.brown.edu
News-Software: BNN via BNN_POST v1.0 beta

>
>
>How about this idea: get a bonsai.  It smells like the real
>thing and looks like a real Christmass tree in miniature.
>You can gently decorate it with tiny ornaments every year
>(no lights though) and you would have a nice plant at other times too.
>No need to ever get rid of it, since it does not grow too large.
>
>Marzena

I heard somewhere, (i don't know where) that many bonsai are
poisonous. Anyone know the true knowledge?

Jennifer Cole-Steele
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: nrlfs1.nrl.navy.mil (Judy Karpen)
Subject: Q: dwarf pomegranate, curry leaf plant
Organization: NRL
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 23:48:47 GMT

I bought the above last spring and kept them outside in pots over
the summer. They did OK until I brought them inside a few weeks 
ago, hence my pleas for help.

1) The dwarf pomegranate's leaves are nearly all yellow and falling
off. Is it SUPPOSED to be deciduous or is the poor thing dying?  I 
thought it might have mites because I noticed some webs (although
that may be a function of my lousy housecleaning), so I've been
spraying it with water+mild soap (very little) the past few weeks
with no improvement. It's sitting in the sunniest spot I have, by
my south-facing patio door, if that matters. All advice appreciated;
it's really a darling plant (pretty leaves, shape, and cute dwarf
pomegranates in the fall) and I don't want to lose it! 

2) Any advice on proper care of curry leaf plant will be appreciated
as well. Latin name Murraya, i think, but I'll have to check on 
that: it's the edible leaf that shows up in South Indian food). I've
got it in the same sunny spot as the pomegranate, and although
it's got fungus gnats (thanks for answering my pleas on 
THAT one) otherwise it's looking OK. A few weeks ago it also
seemed to be yellowing but I cut down on watering and stirred up
the soil to roust the gnats, which seemed to help. However, I have
NO idea how to keep it healthy and get it past the incredibly small
and spindly stage it's in now. I saw an adult version at a local
Indian restaurant (boy was I jealous), which was still pretty skinny
but much taller and greener than mine (the plant, not the restaurant)
 Any ideas on how fast they grow? 

Thanks as always!

Judy Karpen
karpen@nrlfs1.nrl.navy.mil
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: kmedenfe@eos.ncsu.edu (KATRINA EDENFELD)
Subject: Podocarpus
Originator: kmedenfe@c00378-346dan.eos.ncsu.edu
Reply-To: kmedenfe@eos.ncsu.edu (KATRINA EDENFELD)
Organization: North Carolina State University, Project Eos
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 20:51:51 GMT


I have a small Chinese podocarpus that I got about a year ago. It had 4 stems. 
About two months ago, the leaves at the bottom of one stem dried up & the leaves
at the top withered.  I cut it off when it was obviously not going to get better.
Now, the same thing is happening to a second stem. Anyone know what could be 
causing this?
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: james@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (James White)
Subject: Re: horseradish
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 23:04:31 GMT
Reply-To: JamesWhite@vnet.ibm.com
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM Rochester

For goodness sake, you should be able to grow horseradish in Minnesota.
I do all the time here in sunny Rochester.  My plants grow about 5 feet tall
and invade everything.  We harvested a whole wheel barrow of root this fall
and made upwards of 50 pints of sauce.  We just love it.  I am interested 
in trying the beets and horseradish suggestion.

Some notes about where I grow it.  I started with sandy soil that has a lot
horse manure added (horse radish...horse manure, there might be a connection
there).  I drop in a root and then stand back or it might knock me over.

Cheers!

P.S.  Process it in a well ventilated area.  When canned, it mellows out.
-- 

James White 
Xref: sparky rec.gardens:8001 alt.sustainable.agriculture:241 bionet.plants:614
From: london@sunSITE.unc.edu (Larry London)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens,alt.sustainable.agriculture,bionet.plants
Subject: Re: Is there any plant db ?
Keywords: horticulture,gardening,farming information: WAIS, e-mail, FTP
Date: 16 Nov 92 00:24:05 GMT
Organization: University of North Carolina, Chapel Hill

>How about a gopher server out there full of plants and stuff like that? 
>Paul, oliphant@engr.wisc.edu
E-mail me if you want a complete list of files available at SUNSITE 

-----------------------------------------------------------------
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For now files are available by:

FTP to sunsite.unc.edu

     docs are in /pub/docs/sustainable_agriculture
[current site information and file list is /sustainable_agriculture/update]

OR

Send your requests for files or site information to:

     london@sunsite.unc.edu

OR

To use WAIS to search text by keyword
telnet to: sunsite.unc.edu
           login as: swais
           enter terminal emulation (VT100 works fine)
           wait 30 secs. for menu to come up
[enter: /sustain 
 hit spacebar to mark (sustainable-agriculture) source with *
 enter: w (to initiate search)
 enter keyword(s) to search for


FAQ lists for rec.gardens and misc.rural are located in:

     /sustainable_agriculture/recgardens
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As the collection increases in size, readme files will be provided
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Please send anything you would like to see added to the collection,
including your revisions of any of the documents (FAQ's, lists, etc.).

FTP them directly to /sustainable_agriculture/incoming

or send them via e-mail to: london@sunsite.unc.edu for posting


For more information about SUNSITE and how to use
some of the facilities there send a mail message to
info@sunsite.unc.edu--you'll get our welcome package 
including how-to-ftp, how-to-swais, how-to-submit...
======================================================
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     Office FOR Information Technology
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     Chapel Hill, NC
     Paul_Jones@unc.edu

===============
UPDATE 11-05-92
===============

[filelist deleted]
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: rim@csadfa.cs.adfa.oz.au (Bob McKay)
Subject: Re: Hardy Citrus was List of cold climate gums
Organization: Australian Defence Force Academy, Canberra, Australia
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 04:19:26 GMT

pharvey@quack.sac.ca.us (Paul Harvey) writes:

>the first frost. Fully dormant "Satsuma" mandarin trees can withstand
>temps as low as 18oF without defoliation. Kumquats may tolerate temps a
>degree or two colder. Most other mandarins can take 22-23oF; grapefruit
>and oranges 23-24oF; lemons 26-27oF; and limes 28oF. The average
>freezing point for mature fruits of "Satsuma" mandarins and "Temple"
>tangors is 28oF. Ripe navel oranges freeze at 27-28oF ...
>Duration of cold is also very important in determining whether fruit
>will be damaged. It usually takes 3-4 hours as 27-28oF to injure navel
>oranges, but it may take only 30-60 minutes at 29oF to injure small
>lemons.

The more we discuss this, the more puzzling it gets. I'm starting to think
the mercury in our thermometers here must be upside down! Assuming the
temperatures Paul quotes are air temperatures, rather than ground temps
(which can be significantly colder), the table mostly fits the Oz experience. 
But there's one exception, lemons, which as I mentioned, are considered 
relatively hardy here, despite minima down to around 21F most Winters, and 
extremes down to around 16F. It may be partly varieties (Meyer, the one
mentioned, originated in Canberra), but other varieties, while not so hardy,
are still regarded as hardier than mandarins, grapefruit or oranges. Anybody
have an explanation??
   Cheers
     Bob McKay
-- 
Bob McKay		   	Phone:	+61 6 268 8169	    fax: +61 6 268 8581
Dept. Computer Science		Internet:	rim@csadfa.cs.adfa.oz.au
ADFA, Northcott Dve 		UUCP:...!uunet!munnari!csadfa.cs.adfa.oz.au!rim
Campbell ACT 2600 AUSTRALIA	ARPA:	rim%csadfa.cs.adfa.oz.au@uunet.uu.net
From: boldtp@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com (If ya think long, you'll think wrong.)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Need help with Mildew on Snow Peas
Date: 18 Nov 92 12:09:42 EST

In article <1992Nov17.123413.960@calmasd.prime.com>, jhb@calmasd.prime.com (Jim Bishop) writes:
> 
> Last year I tried Oregon mammoth melting sugar II, or some such name.
> It is an oriental pea, but the II at the end was the important part. 
> It was very productive.  It had huge pods and was mildew resistant.
>
 I grew a new varitey of Oregon mammoth ( not sure if it was "II" or not )
this year.  Here in NE Ohio, it was very productive, with large flat pods.
It seemed very mildew resistant.  The only drawback I noted was the flavor.
It could have been sweeter.
 
> I prefer sugar peas, but haven't found a variety that does well here. 
> The bush varieties get eaten by snails and slugs.  The tall varieties
> get mildew.  I guess I ought to find out what the some the nearby road
> side stands use.  They have lots of peas in the spring.

I have found that "Meastro" is a very good tasting pea.  It's billed as a
multi use pea, but I just use it for shelled peas, the pod is a bit tough.
It isn't as mildew resistant as others, it a bush variety so you have to
fight slugs, but the flavor makes up for it.

Pete Boldt                 Am I suppose to disclaim something?
From: GC.SUL@forsythe.stanford.edu (Sullivan)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Alternatives to Christmas trees
Date: 17 Nov 1992 18:00:54 -0800
Organization: Stanford University
NNTP-Posting-Host: morrow.stanford.edu

6 years ago I bought a Colorado Blue Spruce in a 10 gal. pot for
about $45.  We use it every year at Christmas and the rest of the
time it is an outdoor tree.  I add times release fertilizer each
year.  it has grown frm about 3 to 41/2 feet.

I figure I have saved quite a bit with this tree.  It not only is
cheapier than buying a cut tree but is a "family tradition"

Karen
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: bbeer@stein.u.washington.edu (Bob Beer)
Subject: Re: unhappy potted palm
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 00:55:34 GMT

Another thing to check for is if you have really hard water in your area. Here 
in Seattle, though the water naturally is fairly acid, they add lots of lime
to the city water to keep corrosion of the water pipes to a minimum.  The
pipes love it, the palms hate it.  

We recommend that people place the palm in the tub and flush a couple of gallons of water through the soil every month or so (letting it drain away) to purge it of built-up lime.

The first sign of lime problems is new leaves coming in already browned.

Bob
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: kathleen@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Kathleen Much)
Subject: Re: Q: dwarf pomegranate, curry leaf plant
Organization: Center for Advanced Study in the Behavioral Sciences
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 02:14:29 GMT

In article <Bxu25B.n4M@ra.nrl.navy.mil> nrlfs1.nrl.navy.mil (Judy Karpen) writes:
>1) The dwarf pomegranate's leaves are nearly all yellow and falling
>off. Is it SUPPOSED to be deciduous or is the poor thing dying?  I 
>thought it might have mites because I noticed some webs (although
>that may be a function of my lousy housecleaning), so I've been
>spraying it with water+mild soap (very little) the past few weeks
>with no improvement. It's sitting in the sunniest spot I have, by
>my south-facing patio door, if that matters. All advice appreciated;
>it's really a darling plant (pretty leaves, shape, and cute dwarf
>pomegranates in the fall) and I don't want to lose it! 

Where are you?  On the San Francisco Peninsula, we have dwarf
pomegranates planted outdoors.  They are deciduous, but the little
pomegranates stay on the brown twigs like Christmas ornaments.  I've
never tried growing one as a house plant, so can't help any further
there.  If you have a mild climate, you might try leaving it outside
except on very cold nights (well below freezing).  Our bushes take
cold down to 20 degrees F right in stride.

-- 
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Kathleen Much, Editor		|E-mail: kathleen@casbs.stanford.EDU
CASBS, 202 Junipero Serra Blvd.	|Phone: (415) 321-2052
Stanford, CA  94305		|Fax: (415) 321-1192
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: psmith@alfred.carleton.ca (Peter Smith)
Subject: dwarf indoor orange - followup
Organization: Carleton University
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 17:30:38 GMT

Several readers kindly responded directly to me about their
experiences with such trees.

From the sounds of things, the variety "calomden" (sp?) was the most
common and yielded excellent results considering its size.  It sounds
as though it usually grows to between 18 and 24" high with a similar
width.

The fruit are small, tart and edible.  However, many blossoms usually
die, and of those setting fruit many also die.  Nonetheless, what a
novelty for a snowbound Canadian:  homegrown oranges!

Thanks to all who responded
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: MHARRIS@RICEVM1.RICE.EDU
Subject: Vines & Berries
Organization: Rice University  
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 00:57:58 GMT

About a month ago I posted a message about finding out how to care for grape
vines.  A reply was sent to me but I seem to have misplaced some how.
 
If anyone else can help me out with maybe a clue on how to care for them or
a book I can buy.
 
Thanks.
 
 
======================================================================
*       Mayfield Harris                      Phone: 713-527-4642     *
*       LAN Specialist/Trainer                 Fax: 713-527-6099     *
*       Rice University       Internet: mharris@ricevm1.rice.edu     *
*                                                                    *
*    "He who asks a question may be a fool, but he who never asks"   *
*                     "remains a fool forever"                       *
======================================================================
From: jessup@dot.cs.colorado.edu (Elizabeth Jessup)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: late peonies
Date: 24 Nov 92 02:20:08 GMT
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder

Last summer, I bought some mail order peonies, and they just arrived!
The mail order company assures me that it's not too late to plant them
even though their own literature says to plant them in late summer.
Does anyone know if it's actually reasonable to plant them now? 
The soil here is not yet frozen, although my garden is presently
buried under about four feet of snow.  

I'd hate not to have peonies next year if possible, but I'd hate
even more to kill $$$ worth of plants by putting them in the ground
too late.

Thanks!
Liz
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: dwarf indoor orange - followup
From: thacker@RHEA.ARC.AB.CA
Date: 19 Nov 92 08:48:43 MDT
Reply-To: thacker@RHEA.ARC.AB.CA
Organization: Alberta Research Council

In article <psmith.722107838@cunews>, psmith@alfred.carleton.ca (Peter Smith) writes:
>Several readers kindly responded directly to me about their
>experiences with such trees.
>
>From the sounds of things, the variety "calomden" (sp?) was the most
>common and yielded excellent results considering its size.  It sounds
>as though it usually grows to between 18 and 24" high with a similar
>width.
>
>The fruit are small, tart and edible.  However, many blossoms usually
>die, and of those setting fruit many also die.  Nonetheless, what a
>novelty for a snowbound Canadian:  homegrown oranges!


If you want more of a follow-up get the latest issue of "Harrowsmith"
magazine (Dec. 1992).  They have a feature called "Fruit of the Room - 
Cultivating an indoor grove of oranges, lemons, limes and more."


>
>Thanks to all who responded
Newsgroups: rec.gardens