HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: H.Regan@bradford.ac.uk (H REGAN)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: SOLDERING COPPER PIPES
Date: 5 Oct 92 20:00:18 GMT
Organization: University of Bradford, UK
Originator: 90465160@muser


Hi,

my brother was wanting to brew on a larger scale, and he
thought about using a household hot water tank and its
immersion heater as a boiler. But he's now gone off the
idea, because he's worried that the lead would react with
the tannins in the wort.

Can one of you bright fellas out there shed any light on
this?

Helen.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Subject: Re: Steam beer
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 03:19:03 GMT
Organization: ddsw1.MCS.COM Contributor, Chicago, IL

 
 Article 6224 (13 more) in rec.crafts.brewing:
 From: gummitch@techbook.com (Jeff Frane)
 
 >When I toured the brewery a number of years ago they 
 reported that the ambient temperature in San Francisco (the 
 temperature at which they brew and store their beer) is 55.
 
 It is my understanding that 55F is the high end of the 
 normal range for lagering.  It seems that this hardly 
 qualifies it as a steam beer.
 
 Do they still claim it is or is it just a trade mark?
 
 js
From: v064myby@ubvmsd.cc.buffalo.edu (Christophe J Quaranta)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Lead Free Solder
Date: 6 Oct 92 03:20:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41


	As one who has sweated many copper pipes, I can say this.
Lead free solder seems to come in two different varieties.  There's
a 94%tin 6% antimony mixture which is almost the same comp as pewter,
and a tin/silver/bismuth mixture.  You often see the latter in small
blister packs designed for the occasional DIY'er & the other in large 
spools.  
	I believe the bismuth mixture is easier to work with, it has a greater 
plastic range & doesn't run all over the place like the tin solder.
Try using lead free on a vertical joint and see what I mean.
Lead solder is easier to use but I wouldn't want it to come in contact 
with beer since it's and acid.
	BTW Pepto Bismol is bismuth subsalicylate.  I assume then it won't
cause major health problems if ingested.
					Latre,
`					Chris Q.
From: jdg00@ccc.amdahl.com (Josh Grosse)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: what ever happened to the net brew competition?
Date: 3 Oct 92 18:12:19 GMT
Reply-To: jdg00@amail.amdahl.com (Josh Grosse)
Organization: Amdahl Corporation

jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo) writes:

>Anyone remember who the volunteer judge was?

The competition was discussed and organized last fall.  Mark Nightengale
volunteered to direct the competition, and people were to send beers to him
in the October timeframe.  I recall that I was fairly late in bottling, so
had to ship by 2nd day air to get to him by the deadline.

After hearing nothing about the competition, I wrote to him in December and
was told that the competition was delayed until January.  In January I wrote
to him and was told that the competition was delayed until February.  After
that, I never recieved any further response to either electronic mail or to
posted articles here in r.c.b.
-- 
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Josh Grosse                                jdg00@amail.amdahl.com
Amdahl Corp.                               313-358-4440
Southfield, Michigan
From: spl@szechuan.ucsd.edu (Steve Lamont)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Cooking with aluminum
Date: 27 Sep 92 15:32:34 GMT
Article-I.D.: network.1a4k6iINN8a5
Organization: University of Calif., San Diego/Microscopy and Imaging Resource
NNTP-Posting-Host: szechuan.ucsd.edu

In article <1992Sep27.15903.20548@ms.uky.edu> cbrooks@ms.uky.edu (Clayton Brooks) writes:
>Yes, I know, you're not supposed to use aluminum.
>
>But I have this Calphalon pot that is the perfect size.
>
>I'm assuming that the only problem in using aluminum is 
>that you might get a "can" taste with your beer.
>Is there any big danger? (PLEASE TELL ME NOW!!!!)

I'm using a Calphalon brewpot and don't notice any Al taste.

The link between Al and Alzheimer's Disease, according to the
scientists with whom I share this lab, is, at best, circumstantial.

							spl
-- 
Steve Lamont, SciViGuy -- (619) 534-7968 -- spl@dim.ucsd.edu
UCSD Microscopy and Imaging Resource/UCSD Med School/La Jolla, CA 92093-0608
"When the cells are talking, you have to listen to them..."
                            - Liz Yoder, UCSD Neuroscience graduate student
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: binkley@boulder.Colorado.EDU (Jon Binkley)
Subject: Re: hop pellets
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: 26 Sep 92 16:07:17 GMT

v064myby@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (Christophe J Quaranta) writes:


>	It seems that hop pellets "dissolve" in to a sort of split pea
>soup.  They do strain out to some extent with a tight weave strainer.
>Does anyone know how the remaining hop particles affect the beer if
>they're left in the wort?

They cause no problems.  In fact, many of us add them directly
to the fermentor for dry hopping.

Jon Binkley


Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: kelly@spyro.cray.com (Matt Kelly)
Subject: USING PVC spigots
Date: 1 Oct 92 10:31:46 CDT


I am going to build an insulated mash/lauter tun soon (this weekend,
perhaps).  I have everything planned out -- I'm going to use the
"sparge manifold" system.  There is only one problem: I can't find
anything to use as a spigot to control the flow rate during the
sparge.

I would like to keep everything copper and/or stainless and/or
brass.  But I just can't find a copper/brass/stainless spigot
that will work.  I have, however, found a PVC spigot that seems
like it would work quite well.

My question is, is PVC safe to use for brewing?  It seems to me
that since it is used for hot and cold water (potable!), it should
be safe.  Not being a chemist, I don't know, and I don't want to
be a guinea pig!!!!

Any comments/advice would be helpful.


Matt

==============================================================================
kelly@els.cray.com                   |
                                     | Semper ubi sub ubi.
Opinions expressed herein are just   |
that.  Mine, not Cray's.             | -Julius Caesar
                                     |
==============================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: bfbrown@media.mit.edu (Brian F. Brown)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Looking for a good raspberry ale recipe
Date: 13 Sep 92 18:54:28 GMT
Organization: MIT Media Laboratory

Please send a simple (no mashing, I am a beginner) recipe if you have
one to bfbrown@athena.mit.edu  Thanks.
-BB
From: cst@bork.nist.gov (Charles S. Tarrio)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: brewing with blackberries
Date: 1 Oct 92 21:27:13 GMT


Has anyone else out there brewed with blackberries, and if so, how were
your results?

I ask because before I tried it out, a few people said they'd heard that
the blackberry taste doesn't last, and would be gone before the beer was
drinkable.  However, I've made four batches now, three stouts and one  
wheat, and they've all been wonderful.  The berry flavor is always subtle,  
but it doesn't fade, and, in the case of the wheat beer, seems to be  
growing with age.  I've usually used 2-3 pounds of blackberries for a  
5-gal batch.

While we're at it, I love brewing with fruit.  Anyone brewed with some
less common fruits (other than cherries, raspberries, peaches, etc.)?

__________________
Any opinions expressed are not those of NIST or the Government
C.                              ctarrio@enh.nist.gov
"Is it progress if a cannibal uses a knife and fork?
           -Stanislaw Lem
From: gorski@pslu1.psl.wisc.edu (Tom Gorski)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Need a Schwarzbier Recipe!!
Date: 5 Oct 92 19:15:55 GMT
Article-I.D.: pslu1.1992Oct5.191555.5360
Organization: Physical Sciences Lab, University of Wisconsin

As the subject states, I need an all-grain recipe for a Schwarzbier, or
"Black" Beer, as the Bavarians call it.  For those of you who don't
know, this is a very dark lager of moderate alcohol level, with a
noticable but not overpowering flavor of roasted malt, modestly hopped.
Note that this type of beer is not to be confused with a Munchner Dunkel,
which is merely dark.  When I say Schwarzbier, I'm talking Black!! :-)

A commercial example of this type of beer is Sprecher Black Bavarian,
brewed in Milwaukee, for those of you lucky enough to be in their limited
distribution area.  I know of no authentic German examples of this
style which are imported to the U.S.

Here's hoping somebody has a recipe!

--TG
From: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us (Joseph Nathan Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Yeast comparisons
Date: Sun, 4 Oct 92 15:46:45 EDT
Organization: 5 Sigma Software
Reply-To: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us
X-Mailer: uAccess - Macintosh Release: 1.5v5


In article <9a=2028T24rT01@JUTS.ccc.amdahl.com> (rec.crafts.brewing), jdg00@ccc.amdahl.com (Josh Grosse) writes:
) jworley@borris.eece.unm.edu (Jeremy Worley) writes:
) 
) >Has anyone compiled a comparison of dry and liquid yeasts that
) >are available?  In particular, I am interested in general quality,
) >contribution to overall flavor, "speed" of fermentation, esters,
) >aromas, odors, etc. etc. 
) 
) Please see "Analysis and Evaluation of Commercial Brewer's Yeast" by Mary
) Miranda, Setphen Ask, Jan-Xavier Guinard, and Michael Lewis, Ph.D., in the
) 1989 Special Issue of Zymurgy Magazine.  They compare 14 dry ale yeasts,
) 5 dry lager yeasts, and 3 liquid yeasts (2 lager, 1 ale).  They measure
) them by Colony Forming Units per gram, percent fiability, fermentation rate,
) doubling time, colony forming lactic acid bacteria presence, and enteric
) bacteria or salmonella detection.

This article is useful as an indication of the variability in yeasts,
both that inherent in the strains and that due to processing (infection,
etc.).  But I would not bother using it as a source of specific information
about the yeasts mentioned there.  Except maybe as a recommendation
to stay away from certain dried yeasts.  (No, no, Edme wasn't one
of the worst.)

It would be nice to have some detailed information about the Wyeast
cultures.  Which sugars they ferment, which esters they tend to produce
under several sets of standardized conditions, flocculation, etc.  I am 
aware of the blurb that gives a paragraph or so of info about each yeast,
but that really isn't precise enough to be useful.

The do-it-yourself method is always an option, but why must we homebrewers
continue to reinvent the wheel?

uunet!joebloe!joseph   (609) 273-8200 day   joseph%joebloe@uunet.uu.net
2102 Ryan's Run East        Rt 38 & 41             Maple Shade NJ 80852
-----My employer isn't paying for this, and my opinions are my own-----
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: psrc@pegasus.att.com (Paul S R Chisholm)
Subject: Re: WANTED: How to make whiskey / references...
Reply-To: psrc@pegasus.att.com (Paul S R Chisholm)
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories
Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1992 21:37:42 GMT
Summary: make something else

If you want to make a celebratory drink (that takes a long time to
age), try barleywine or champagne.  Unlike whiskey, these are legal to
make without a license.

The trick is to get a really good seal around your bottle cap or cork.
Even a little bit of oxygen getting in, after six years, could make
your toasts undrinkable.

Paul S. R. Chisholm, AT&T Bell Laboratories/EasyLink Services,
att!pegasus!psrc, psrc@pegasus.att.com, AT&T Mail !psrchisholm
I'm not speaking for the company, I'm just speaking my mind.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: busch@stx.com (jim busch)
Subject: re: red hook ESB & clusters
Organization: Goddard Space Flight Center
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 13:40:57 GMT

Jeff Frane writes:

>I don't know *for certain* whether the hop mixture has changed. My
>understanding is that when Red Hook threw out their old yeast, though,
>they continued to brew Red Hook just as before and renamed the version
>with the "normal" yeast Red Hook ESB.  I don't know what the hop mixture
>is now, but six years ago it was a combination of Clusters, Willamettes,
>Eroicas, Cascades and Hallertau.  I don't know of many brewers still
>using Clusters, but I wouldn't be surprised to hear that the other hops
>are still pretty much the same.

The brewery fact sheet does indeed claim that ESB is just made with
Willamettes and Tettang.  The same fact sheet does indeed list all of
the hops that Jeff listed(for the ale), so I assume the ESB is not the same hopped
beer as the Ale with differnet yeast.  Also, a little nit on the use
of Clusters hops- I have no doubt that with all of the nice hops in 
the Pacific NW clusters is not used as much but it is still quite 
common throughout the world, especially in lager breweries.  It is
a typical bittering hop throughout the continent, and I know of two
DC area lager breweries that use it as a bittering hop.  Also, the 
Redhook fact sheet claims that it was used in the 1990 Winterhook.
Jim Busch
busch@daacdev1.stx.com
From: kmcintyr@boi.hp.com (Kevin McIntyre)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Very low starting Spec. Gravity, what to do?
Keywords: gravity, low
Date: 6 Oct 92 13:46:59 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

Brewers--
  I started a brew last night and the starting specific
gravity was very low but I went ahead and pitched the
yeast and continued.  Is there anything I can do to
raise the spec. gravity now or is it just one of those
things you let ride???  I guess I was thinking of 
boiling some crystal and adding that but I'm not sure
what effect that would have if I add it now.   
				--Relaxing but curious ...
					Thanks.
						Kevin.

Oh, just as a data point, the start gravity was about 1.038
and was suppose to be in the 1.060 range.



e-mail: kmcintyr@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jad@nsa.hp.com (John Dilley)
Subject: Hello, Mike Sharp <msharp@cs.ulowell.edu>
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 00:59:01 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: Networked Systems Architecture


Sorry to bother the net.  Mike, I can't reach you at the above address
to add your subscription to the mead-lovers digest.  I get a Host
unknown error when I try to send to you ... though I can lookup your IP
address from here.  There is something bogus on your end.  Please have
your mail administrator look into this (or contact me if there is a
question).  Thank you,

                         --       jad       --


Date: Wed, 30 Sep 92 17:56:42 -0700
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Subject: Returned mail: Host unknown
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   ----- Transcript of session follows -----
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Return-Receipt-To: jad
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 92 17:56:42 -0700
From: John Dilley <jad>


	Welcome to the mead-lovers@nsa.hp.com mailing list.  I've added
you to as per your recent request.  The digest is currently running on
the same terms as the Home Brew Digest (HBD).  As with the HBD, please
send your articles to the digest address, mead-lovers@nsa.hp.com.  Send
administrative requests (for addition to or removal from the list) to
the request address, mead-lovers-request@nsa.hp.com.

	Feel free to start submitting articles (particularly recipes) to
mead-lovers.  Enjoy the digest!

			 --       jad       --
		    John A. Dilley <jad@nsa.hp.com>
From: hersh@expo.lcs.mit.edu (Jay Hersh)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Great idea but....
Date: 28 Sep 92 20:03:21 GMT
Organization: X Consortium, MIT Laboratory for Computer Science

joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us (Joseph Nathan Hall) writes:


>On a good day I get about a pound per minute through my Corona.  So
>I spend about 10 minutes doing ... what can be done in 10 minutes.

>) There are lots of reasons why people do what they do and not the least
>) of which is just the fun of reingineering something to make it do what it
>) was not intended to do.

>There are plenty of reasons why netfolk don't buy the roller mill reviewed
>in the current Zymurgy, and I doubt that functionality is really one
>of them.  Sad, but true.

Hmmm, what started this was my posting of another mill alternative.
Many people complain the Corona crushes too fine, but it costs ~$40
so it is affordable. Many folks say Jack's mill has a good crush, 
but didn't like the $100+ price tag. The mill I mentioned (Marcato Marga
Mullino, produced by the same folks who make Atlas pasta makers)
can, through very inexpensive modifications taking ~15-30 minutes,
be made to yield a very good crush. This mill can be had for $60
in the Boston area at least.

Jack queried what the throughput of this mill was, and I indicated
that it takes 3-4 minutes to cruch a pound of grain. I brew 3 gallon batches
so that means 5-7 pounds, thus under 30 minutes. Jack says his mill
crushes a pound a minute. If speed is a concern then you may be happier
with Jack's mill. If $$ is a concern (the savings paid for my entire
mash tun and all fittings, plus the cost of the first batch) then
you may prefer the Marcato. Since I grind my grains the day before
so that the dust has settled (grain dust is a serious infection source
and most breweries isolate their crushing area from their brewing and 
fermentation areas) the small time difference is not even much of a 
consideration for me.

Those basically are the considerations. A classic choice of cost vs.
speed vs. quality of crush (from all accounts my crush quality equals
that of Jack's mill).

	Corona		Jack's Mill	Marcato
Cost    ~$40             ~$100           ~$60
crush   poor             good            good
speed   fast             fast            moderate


My assertion is that the Marcato Mill is a good compromise. It yields
a high quality crush with reasonable throughput for a lower price.
If speed is your major concern (if you brew large batches) it may not
suit you as well. If you'd rather save some $$ and your brew output
is such that you don't mind spending a few extra minutes crushing
then the Marcato Mill is likely a better choice.


Hopes this sums up the issue for all interested.

	JaH


--
Hopfen und Malz, Gott erhalts
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing

I can't help you with a recipe for cider but I would be thankful if you would
post one for hard cider.

thanks
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: mcharry@mitre.org (John McHarry(J23))
Subject: Easymash
Organization: The MITRE Corporation
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 12:29:22 GMT

I purchased one of Jack Schmidling's Easymash kits a few weeks ago.  So
far, I have used it twice.  It appears to perform quite as advertised.

The kit consists of an air cock, some tubing, and a piece of copper
screen molded over the end of the tubing that lies on the bottom of the
mash/lauter tun to act as a filter, in place of a grain bag or
perforated false bottom.  I mounted mine in a four gallon enamelled pot.
It seems to take a little care in drilling the hole to avoid chipping
the finish and to get a nice fit.  I underdrilled and carefully reamed
to size.  Works fine.

I mash by adjusting the temperature with boiling water, following
Papazian, but I then chuck the pot in the oven set on warm (It just
fits).  My oven will cause the temperature to drift up very slowly, too
slowly to matter.  

I sparge by bringing the sparge water to a boil, transferring it to a
bucket with a tap in the bottom, and ladling it over the mash.  I have
not bothered with a mash-out.  The temperature going into the tun is
about 170.  The runoff stays at 150 or above.  I have had no trouble
with a sticky sparge.  Yields have been 28 and 30.

I am quite happy with this setup.  Jack has posted how to build it from
scratch, but the parts may be a bit hard to find in some areas, and he
has done a little work on the air cock that would require some tools not
all of us have.  I would advocate buying the kit, even though it is
American made ;>).

John McHarry (No financial interest in JSP, just a satisfied customer.)
From: pjm@bbn.com (Paul J. Metzger)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Refilling CO2 tanks
Date: 6 Oct 1992 17:10:31 GMT
Organization: Bolt Beranek and Newman Inc., Cambridge MA
Distribution: ne
Reply-To: pjm@BBN.COM (Paul J. Metzger)
NNTP-Posting-Host: bbn.com

Can anybody recommend a good place to get CO2 tanks refilled in the
vicinity of Boston and/or Cambridge?  Thanks.

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Subject: Re: clarifying help
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 02:48:08 GMT
Organization: ddsw1.MCS.COM Contributor, Chicago, IL

In article <klumpp-290992092335@alexander.nbp.nwu.edu> klumpp@casbah.acns.nwu.edu (David Klumpp) Klumpp) (David Klumpp) writes:
>Tonight I will keg for the first time, and I would like to use clarifying
>agents  on a golden ale.
>
>I have both polyclar and bentonite, yet both Papazian and Miller are
>sketchy on their instructions.  Do I really just dump this clay (bentonite)
>into my carboy before racking into the keg?  I realize I must sanitize it
>with boiling h2o per Miller, but how quickly does this stuff settle out?

Here is my two cents on betonite.  When Don Parsons from the Malt Shop
was here a couple of weeks ago he suggested using it to clarify my
dandeline wine that just refused to clear.  He sent me some and his 
insturctions were to boil half the pack (about a tablespoon) in some
water and rack the wine on top of it.

I did this and it cleared substantially but lost at least a gallon of wine as
there is now about two inches of sludge on the bottom of the carboy.  If it
does that with beer, I would avoid it like the plague.

Gelatine is the agent of choice at the World's Greatest Brewery.  Actually,.
second choice... time if first choice. 

js