From: lee@hsh.com (Lee Havemann)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Buick Century again.
Date: 11 Dec 92 16:43:59 GMT
Organization: HSH Associates

In article <Bz2nIE.n1L.2@cs.cmu.edu>, murthy+@EDRC.CMU.EDU (Sesh Murthy) writes:
> I think I asked too many questions in my previous post.  Nobody
> answered:-(  The car in question is a 84 Buick century custom, 3.0 L with a 
> 3 spd automatic.  It is very underpowered and stalls when cold especially
> when I brake.

Is this a carb of fuel injection engine?  I have the smae problem on my '82
and I am pretty sure it is the TPS (throttle position sensor) - We had it 
hooked up on my friends computer, and that was the only thing out of wack.
 According to the manual, it is non-adjustable, only replacable.


> The only answer that I received is that the timing gear in the
> 3.0 L engines is made of plastic and that it gets eaten away
> causing the engine to become erratic.  Is this true.  I do find that
> my car is erratic.

The gear has nylon coated teeth, and the nylon has a tendancy to break off
after 60K or so miles, making it hard starting, rough idling, poor acceleration,
etc. 

> 
> So is this true of the 84 cars also. 
> Do I want to replace the timing chain and the gear.  how difficult is
> this.

Very easy, when you take the engine out of the car :-)  
Actually, its not too bad. You have to take off the passenger side wheel and 
there is a plastic splash guard that comes off the inner fender well which
gives you limited access to the crankshaft pulley, and some of the timing 
cover bolts.  The oil pump is attached to the cover also, that has to come 
off, so does the alternator, power steering pump, water pump, the AC compressor 
bracket may be in the way, etc. 
  If you do this in the car, without air tools, I would plan on 1 long day,
(maybe 2 days), depending on your level of skill and tools you have.
  I would also recommend replacing the water pump and the oil pump while you 
have them off - the oil pump is in an aluminum housing, and it tends to wear,
and the water pump just on general principal - It will usually break 30 days 
after you have it off (Murphy's law).

> Also at inspection time I was told that the right front ball joint is
> bad.  How difficult is this to replace?  Can I do it myself.  Do I have
> to get the car aligned after I do it?

Never did one - I can look at the shop manual & check if you want - email me 
and let me know. 
  It's probably riveted in, if it is the original, so you would have to 
grind the rivets off, and borrow or rent a BJ splitter - usually they are a 
1/2 hour job (again, with the proper tools)

> Any other suggestions about making this car behave normally are welcome.

I am still trying to find that out myself :-) I did have a suggestion to 
replace the distributor with a non-computer controlled one and chuck the 
computer - sounds like a good idea so far.

> 
> Thank you
> Sesh Murthy
-- 

 Lee Havemann, Sys_op       HSH Associates          (201) 838-3330 
 Internet: lee@hsh.com    Compuserve: 70410,3507    AOL: HSH Assoc
 "Any opinions expressed are not necessarily those of anyone else, 
  including myself."                     
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech