From: seedman@IASTATE.EDU (Varanus Komodensis)
Subject: Re: A Cage??????
Reply-To: seedman@IASTATE.EDU (Varanus Komodensis)
Organization: Iowa State University
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 17:40:01 GMT

In article <1992Nov2.051935.57596@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu>, dhm1@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu
(DANIEL HILL MCCAULEY) writes:
> 
>     After a lot of planning and help from all of you, I have a design I would
>     like to get your opinion on a few more questions.
> 
>      1)   My cage will be some size. (Probably 6 x 6 x 6 -estimate)
> 

--- You will get no gripes from me, I like big cages, they're easier to clean.
--- I just don't have room for them.

>      2)   I am planning on using plywood for 3 of the walls and a door
>      which will be made of plexiglass. (the three walls will also be
>      insulated to prevent heat loss since my basement is around the 60 deg.)
> 

--- I like to insulate my cages as well, but also insulate top and bottom.

>      3)   It will have two vents for air circulation.
> 
>      4)   A feeding door at bottom.
> 
>      5)   A flourescent light at top for lighting.(which is on timer)
> 
>      My questions are as follows...
> 
>      1)  Does the above look satisfiable (spelling?) for keeping a 12 foot
>      burmese python?
> 

--- So far yes.  Bigger than necessary, but would work.

>      2)   Will heating pads be sufficient(via thermastat)to maintain livable
>      conditions for the snake. If so, what kind are best to use, and are they
>      safe even if they get wet?  Should I also have a incadescent light for
>      supplying heat too?

--- Personally, I would make a heat pad for the critter.  I would make a 
	frame out of 2"x2"'s about the size of your snake coiled up.  Next,
	depending on how skilled you are and the equipment you have on hand,
	either mount a piece of thin sheet metal on top of the frame, or 
	router the inside of the frame so the metal sits flush with the top
	of the 2x2's.   Then, cover the top with a piece of melamine 
	(see below) attach it with glue.  Cover the bottom with pegboard, 
	attach it with screws.  Seal all wood with a Varathane tm or other 
	non-toxic polyeurathane or oil based paint.  Put your heating pad
	inside this box, and it will provide a large heated floor space, that
	you can move, clean, and change heat pads easily.  I am currently
	switching to fiberglass heat pads, as they seem to last longer. In 
	my case, I have mounted legs on these pads, making them into heated
	hide boxes underneath, and heating platforms on top. 
     
>      3)   Should I cover the floor(which is plywood) and walls with something
>      as to prevent bacteria build up and to make cleaning easier.
> 


--- I would suggest several things.  
	First, I would use melamime (Bath Panel) to cover at least the floor
	and the lower regions of the walls.  It is relatively inexpensive 
	($15 for a 4'x8' sheet).  It is waterproof and easy to clean.  It 
	can be glued to the plywood floor and walls with a strong adhesive
	such as PL-200.  Then I would seal the cracks with an aquarium
	sealant, such as GE Household Sealant, which comes in a caulking
	tube and is labeled "Exellent for Aquarium Repair".  After it is 
	sealed, I would let it air out for at least a week.  Then wash it
	out before putting any animals in it. 



					-=- seedman@iastate.edu