HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles

In article <1992Jul30.152143.5023@chpc.utexas.edu> jbyrd@chpc.utexas.edu (Jan Byrd) writes:
>I've started doing needlepoint recently and am having trouble keeping
>the yarns separated while I've got a project going.  The craft store
>sells a flat butterfly-shaped plastic thing with a bunch of quarter-sized 
>holes along the edges (about a dozen of them) to tie the yarns on, but it 
>was about $13, and doesn't have as many holes as I need anyway.  It seems 
>like I should be able to improvise something like this myself, but I'm blank.

I got a small 'ladder' from the craft store.  I loop the yarn in a loose
latch-hook style knot along the edges and rungs.  It is a foot long and
only cost $2.00.  
For smaller projects (with fine threads), I use a small piece of plastic
needlepoint canvas.

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From: gwb0@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (GERALYN WOOD BARRY)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: looking for knotted canopy pattern
Date: 21 Jul 92 21:16:03 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University


  Hi,

  Has anyone seen a pattern for making an old-fashioned knotted bed
  canopy (usually made from white cotton) with tassels around the
  edge? I have a friend who would like to make one, but she can't
  find a pattern. I have suggested that she just experiment, but she
  prefers to have explicit instructions to follow that tell how much
  thread to buy, etc. She has been looking for a pattern for several
  years without success. And I haven't been able to find one in my
  MOUNTAINS of needlecraft books and magazines 8^). If anyone has
  seen instructions, I would appreciate a reference!

  Thanks a lot,
  Geralyn


  8^)   8^)  ????Is YOUR name in my genealogy footer????  8^)  8^)


-- 
.----* PATERSON,NJ/IRELAND *---searching---*  NEWARK,NJ/POLAND *-------.
| Carr                             | Frukowski (also NYC)              |
| Cavanagh/Cavanaugh               | Kukla (Posnan?,PO)                |
| Farrell (also Albany,NY)         | Oland/Olendrowicz                 |
| Harold/Harrold (Co.Tipperary,IR) | Woodkoski/Wlodkowski (Suwalki,PO) |
| McKenna (also Brooklyn/NYC)      | Zalewski (Suwalki,PO)             |
|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: shafer@rigel.dfrf.nasa.gov (Mary Shafer)
Subject: Re: Needlepoint, Cross Stitch, and Pearl Cotton
Organization: NASA Dryden, Edwards, Cal.
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 03:32:19 GMT

On Tue, 21 Jul 92 19:34:51 GMT, jbyrd@chpc.utexas.edu (Jan Byrd) said:

Jan> After that plug for the stand.....I have a question about Pearl Cotton.
Jan> The needlepoint kits I've bought come with wool yarn included, but I
Jan> saw someone working on a hand-painted canvas (the 3 Wise Men) with Pearl 
Jan> Cotton, and it was gorgeous.  A saleswoman at a yarn shop told me that 
Jan> Pearl Cotton won't endure (forever?) like wool, but it can be used on 
Jan> the same canvases as wool.  I liked the colors, the shine, and the fact 
Jan> that the yarn isn't fuzzy like wool.  The little Pearl Cotton skeins 
Jan> (DMC) were $1 each, though, and that will drastically increase the cost 
Jan> of my projects if I decide to use them.

Jan> Is anyone out there using Pearl Cotton?  Is it worth the money?  Can I get
Jan> it cheaper through a mail-order?  Is it ever used for X-stitching?

The extra cost may not be that bad--there's a lot of cotton in those
skeins.  It is somewhat cheaper by mailorder.  

The saleswoman is right about it not enduring--don't use it on anything
that gets any wear at all, like pillows.  The shine wears off very
quickly!  I made a sculptured needlepoint pillow with Persian wool,
pearl cotton, and embroidery floss and the pearl cotton was very pretty
and shiny at first, but after a few years it wasn't as shiny at all.
It still looks good, but it's a more mellow look.

I've made several framed needlepoint pieces with it and they still look
just wonderful.

It handles beautifully.  Use a shortish length and put your needle
about two inches from the end and don't move the needle.  (The part
that goes through the eye will be marked and will show in your work if
you use it.)  Don't ply it--use a built-up stitch or a highish-count
canvas--maybe 18 or so.

--
Mary Shafer  DoD #0362 KotFR NASA Dryden Flight Research Facility, Edwards, CA
shafer@rigel.dfrf.nasa.gov                    Of course I don't speak for NASA
 "A MiG at your six is better than no MiG at all."  Unknown US fighter pilot
Xref: sparky rec.crafts.textiles:1403 misc.kids:19696
From: bea@sybase.com (Bea Deering)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles,misc.kids
Subject: Re: cotton sleepwear
Date: 24 Jul 92 18:31:19 GMT
Organization: Sybase, Inc.


>
>Okay - I have a soon-to-be-mom stupid question:  why does children's
>sleepware have to be made out of non-flammable material?  Do little
>babies have a habit of spontaneous combustion?
>
In the catalog Cotn' Kidz, which carries cotton clothing for kids, I
read a good summary of this issue. I can't remember all the details but
the basics are that studies were done showing that kids who got burned
often had their accidents in the early morning, when they out of bed 
unsupervised. I don't know the year on this, but at the time kids
wore mostly cotton pajamas. So laws were passed requiring pajamas to
be flame retardent. Cotton, when set alight, smoulders and burns for
a long time with a fairly low temperature (low for fire, but still burns
skin). Synthetics burn more quickly with a higher temperature and don't
smoulder. So with cotton you get bigger burns but not too deep. With
synthetics, you get a smaller burn but it's worse because of the higher
temperature (horrible to think of in either case). No one has been
successful yet in developing a flame retardent coating for cotton;
the ill-fated TRYS (sp?) was one example (it turned out to be
carcinogenic). I think that some synthetic sleepwear doesn't actually
have chemicals in it, it's just that the fibers are flame resistant
by nature. But I could be wrong about that.
So no one can advertise garments that are 100% cotton as
sleepwear (it's not against the law to put your kids in cotton, just
against the law to sell cotton clothes specifically as pj's). I've
been putting my kids in cotton long johns (Sarah's Prints, Hannah's, 
etc.) for a long time. I have used Carter's fuzzy sleepers a lot, but
I can't stand the feel of thinner synthetic pajamas.
--

 Bea Deering              bea%sybase.com
 Sybase, Inc.                  or
 Emeryville, Calif.       {sun,lll-tis,pyramid,pacbell}!sybase!bea
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: russell@sun.soe.clarkson.edu (David M. Russell)
Subject: Help Identifying, (Cichlid?)
Organization: Clarkson University
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 03:35:58 GMT

   About four months ago I notice a few fish in my bag of feeder
guppies which seemed to resemble some kind of young cichlid. I
just put them in my tank and they survived. (Much to my surprise,
they were put in a 70gal tank with 6 Kribs, 4 Jewels and an African
Cichlid, all full grown. They never even made a move for them.) 
By the sizes I would say that I ended up with one male and three
females. I am having a hard time identifying them. Any help,
sugestions or leads would be appreciated.

Behavior: Ravenous feeders, of course. The male will jump out of 
          the water to take food from my fingers, or bite my 
          finger. They spend most of the time near the surface
          and are very active, swimming back and forth (looking
          to be fed). They are very attentative to people, I 
          have never seen them hide. When the lighting is dim
          the 'work' the gravel for food.

Description: The 'females' are 2 to 2-1/2 inches in length, and
             the male 4 inches long. The body is similar to many
             Tilapia's, Hero's, or a Firemouth. When young they
             they were virtually white with one black dot near
             the back of the dorsal fin. As the got bigger 6 
             faint vertical strips developed, one at the base of
             the tail, and they developed a faint yellow tinge. Now 
             the 'females' still have that appearance, but the
   ______    'fin-spot' has faded and have traces of an irredesent
  /          blue, mostly near the gill plate. The 'male' on the
 /  0        other hand has changed his appearance quit a bit. 
/            He has become very dark, (even darker when being fed). 
\______/|    There is a purplish sheen to the body, mostly near
/ white |    the gill plate, and a redish tinge to the fins. The
\______/     most striking feature is the fact that his belly is
   \______   nearly white, and the lower part of the mouth, including
             the gill plate, is completely white. It really stands
             out. (see the poor figure) Well I hope you get the idea.
             (They also seem to have a mouth suited for 
              mouth-breeding).

Best Guesses: Tilipia Busumana, closest but not quite.
              Banded Jewelfish
              Tilipia Ovalis.

Does anybody have any ideas, I've run out.

Thanks, DMR, russell@sun.soe.clarkson.edu

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: rjchou@oakhill.sps.mot.com (Ri Jen Chou)
Subject: Re: Painted Glass Fish
Keywords: Painted Fish
Organization: Motorola Inc., Austin, Texas
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 22:02:45 GMT

jj@aquarium.esd.sgi.com (Jennifer Jacobi) writes:

>A friend of mine however purchased a dozen of these creatures 
>AND was told by the retailer that these fish were actually
>PAINTED.  i.e. Someone with a paintbrush actually applied paint
>to the side of these fish.

>Now brace yourselves -- my question is: "Are they really painted?"

>I can't believe this to be true -- visions of people armed with
>paint brushes and glassfish with drying paint on their sides are 
>just dancing in my head.

>This is lore, *right*?  Painted glass fish aren't "painted" are they?

>--jj


Sorry, they *are* painted, or rather, injected with a dye that
usually fades after 6 months or so.  I don't think the dye
healthy for the fish.




-- 
Ri-Jen Chou   		rjchou@decimator.sps.mot.com
Motorola Austin / Eclectic Environs
From: gdrew@cs.umd.edu (Greg Drew)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Recommendations for Hospital Tank
Date: 24 Jul 92 00:33:27 GMT
Organization: U of Maryland, Dept. of Computer Science, Coll. Pk., MD 20742

In article <BEVER.92Jul20165041@csd630a.erim.org> bever@csd630a.erim.org (Dave Beverstock) writes:
>OK, how many out there actually have a hospital tank?
>
>After introducing some fish into my tank that may have had ick (they
>[stuff deleted]
>I seem to have convinced myself that a hospital tank is the way to go.
>So now I have to set out and buy the components.
I have no idea whether there is a consensus on the net, but here is my setup.
I use a 10g tank, heater, 2 air driven "box" filters, lid and an incandacent
strip hood (it was free :) ).  I think that the total setup cost me $40, but
I already had the light and a little Challenger 1 air pump.  I use no gravel,
to make cleaning the tank easier.  I do have a clump of java moss in the
tank, along with a piece of driftwood to give some cover.  The top is
covered with a partial mat of uninvited duckweed which I leave in as additional
cover and shade.  The permanent residents of the tank are 2 male guppies to
keep the bio filters working and an ottociniculus to munch the algae.
 
Some will question my use of bio-filtration in a hospital tank since most
medicines can kill the bacteria, but I consider the primary use of the
tank to be for quarantineing new arrivals and not treating sick fish.  Since
I have started quarantining fish, I have had only one illness, and that was
in an established tank after I stupidly killed off part of an UGF.  It was
ich, it was only on one fish, and it went away with improved water conditions
and 1/2tsp salt per gallon.  I never even had to move the fish.
I use two box filters so that if I ever do need
to treat with antibiotics, I can remove one to a stable tank.  Then, as soon
as I am done with the antibiotics, I can move it back.  This avoids having
to "re-cycle" the tank and should provide a more stable recovery environment.
						-- GDD
-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Greg Drew                          | Watch for coming attractions 
gdrew@trellis.cs.umd.edu           |
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: black@sybase.com (Christina Black])
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Tank Purchase?
Date: 24 Jul 92 15:53:23 GMT
Distribution: ba

Try Albany Aquarium, (510) 525-1166, San Pablo a block north of
Solano.  Their policy is that they give fairly steep discounts on
anything they special-order.  I just bought a Tru-View 60 gal acrylic
tank there for $144, a better price than I saw other places.

-- Chris
black@sybase.com
From: mwerling@snoopy.umd.edu (Michael T. Werling)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: "Canistar" filter opinions
Date: 23 Jul 92 23:06:00 GMT

Just browsing through my comp of TFP, and was wondering what anyone 
knew about the Penn Plax "Canistar" filter (The best of both worlds,
The affordable hang on Cannister Power Filter.)  I just inherited
an old 30 gal tank from a friend, and wanted to start a small (2, maybe
3 fish) marine system.  If anyone has comments/criticisms of this filter,
let me know.



--------------------------------------------------------------------
| Mike Werling, Student Assistant |  email:mwerling@umd5.umd.edu   |
| AT&T Teaching Theater		  |  phone: (301)403-4620          |
| Computer Science Center         |--------------------------------|
| University of Maryland	  | If I can't get to the ocean    |
| 4321 Hartwick Rd, Rm 550	  |                     	   |
| College Park, Md 20742-2411	  |     I'll bring the ocean to me!|
------------------------My opinions are my own!---------------------

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: elster@cs.cornell.edu (Anne C. Elster)
Subject: Re: Beta behavior
Keywords: beta splendons, siamese fighting fish 
Organization: Cornell Univ. CS Dept, Ithaca NY 14853
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 04:01:14 GMT

In article <1992Jul22.201120.23747@Princeton.EDU> asmadsen@phoenix.Princeton.EDU (Aaron S. Madsen) writes:
>
>I have kept half a dozen different male betas over
>the time span of 8 years or so, in different tank configs.
>I have found each one to have a different personality,
...

This is true. According to some Orientals that frequent a local store
(they are really in to bettas -- swipe most of them the day they arrive),
male bettas can even be kept together in the same tank as long as they
are not the solid red ones! I haven't tested that theory, though.

However, what I do have is a nice blue/red betta living happily in
my fancy guppie "breading" tank. I'm not sure whether it's because
the guppies developed their fancy finnage after they met the betta,
or because I have a particularly peaceful one, but they have been
swimming alongside for a couple of months now without any problems!

There also used to be a sword-tail couple in the tank -- no problem.

The guppies tend to come up and flock around the betta at feeding time
(he likes to hang out in one of the top corners) and even then, he
doesn't seem very agressive. He never seems to notice my algea eater
or baby swordtail and prefers "guppie-food" crunch over tubifex.

So much for "book" advice!

						Anne C. Elster
elster@cs.cornell.edu
From: jj@aquarium.esd.sgi.com (Jennifer Jacobi)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Painted Glass Fish
Keywords: Painted Fish
Date: 27 Jul 92 23:34:11 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc.  Mountain View, CA


On numerous occations I have had to opportunity to gaze at 
the latest inhabitants of the local fish stores -- painted 
glass fish.

They look just like glass fish but have a nice dash of neon
color along their sides.  This color can be green, purple, pink,
red or blue.

Now I didn't really think twice about these creatures -- I figured
it was yet another example of some bizzare cross breading. (cross
breading with what?)

A friend of mine however purchased a dozen of these creatures 
AND was told by the retailer that these fish were actually
PAINTED.  i.e. Someone with a paintbrush actually applied paint
to the side of these fish.

Now brace yourselves -- my question is: "Are they really painted?"

I can't believe this to be true -- visions of people armed with
paint brushes and glassfish with drying paint on their sides are 
just dancing in my head.

This is lore, *right*?  Painted glass fish aren't "painted" are they?

--jj
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: bajan@mocha.cc.mcgill.ca (Alan Emtage)
Subject: Silver shark size
Organization: Bunyip Information Systems
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 03:02:29 GMT

I just returned to the wonderful world of little fishes after a 10 year
absence... and boy does it feel good :-) I am also impressed on how much
the technology has changed in the time, but that's another story. My
question is this: how big do silver sharks get ? In my previous life I
was a gourami specialist and I've never encountered these guys before. I
bought a couple on a whim, but I'm afraid that I'm going to get a monster
in my pretty small 30x12x15. Is this the case or do they (as reasonable
fish) grow to accommodate the tank. Just wondering...


-Alan

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Alan Emtage,                    	"Ashore it's wine, women and song;
Bunyip Information System,CANADA         Abord it's rum, bum and concertina"
					   -19th Century British Naval Saying
bajan@bunyip.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:5948 sci.aquaria:1124 alt.aquaria:4286
From: nirah@epx.cis.umn.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: [BM] These are the fish I think I want, what do you pros think?
Date: 22 Jul 92 16:28:46 GMT
Organization: University of Minnesota


 A warning about Picasso Triggers...they can be VERY aggressive.  My
picasso (named Pablo, of course) would happily eat 4 or 5 percula
clowns in as many minutes.  He has also bitten me, my mother, and a
cat, and once leaped out of the tank to attack a rottweiler who was
watching (both the trigger and the dog survived the incident.)

At any rate, I wouldn't try a picasso with anything even remotely
smaller or weaker (mine is in with two rather large moray eels, and
they all seem to get along pretty well).

Good luck with the tank, though I think that if you REALLy want all
the kinds of fish you listed, you'll need three of four tanks.
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:5970 alt.aquaria:4295
From: tom@dynamo.ecn.purdue.edu (Tom McCain)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: Need help from Marine Gurus.
Date: 23 Jul 92 13:39:49 GMT
Organization: Purdue University, West Lafayette, IN

jmb14@jaguar.uofs.edu writes:

: Dear Marine Aquarists,

: 	I would appreciate any information you could give me on the keeping
: of live rock and soft corals.  I'd like to know how they are fed.  Can
: tangs and angels co-exist with them?  Do you need a wet/dry to keep them or
: will a cannister filter packed with bio-beads and nitrex plus a ugf do the 
: biofiltration trick?  Would a tank with these creatures be a "reef" tank?
: Any other info would be appreciated.  Also what about the necessity for
: water supplements of trace elements, etc. such as liquid gold, reef care,
: etc. and cost estimates.

Most of your questions can be answered through one source, "The Manual
of Marine Invertebrates".  This book is published by Tetra Press and
should be available at your local shop, it can also be purchased from
any mail order company like MOPS.  It covers everthing from filtration
and the nitrogen cycle (which you need to understand IMO) through
lighting, tank set up, to selecting and maintaining a healthy stock,
to good descriptions of lots of inverts and corals and how to feed
them.

As for water supplements....  This is a very grey area.  Some believe
they're necessary, some don't.  I personally use as few as possible
(Thiel's Liquid Gold, KSM and Seachem Reef Calcium).  Companies like
Coralife has come out with so many additives now that you can go
crazy trying to keep up with them all!  I think as long as you use a
quality brand of salt and nitrate free water to mix it, you'll have
very few problems.  However, this is just a start as you'll probably
want to try some stony corals in time and really the only way to
answer all of your question is to by some decent books and start
reading, you'll end up with more info than you can digest.  You may
also want to pick up a copy FAMA monthly if you don't already.  Hope
this gets you started!

--

Tom McCain 
tom@ecn.purdue.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: dan@foghorn.pass.wayne.edu (Daniel Cwiertniewicz)
Subject: Re:  Marine Ethics Questions
Organization: Wayne State University/Computing & Information Tech.
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 14:24:15 GMT

In article <lynx.02sm@surrey.amigans.gen.nz> lynx@surrey.amigans.gen.nz (Lynsey Gedye) writes:
>  I wanted a tropical marine tank.  After snorkelling on the Great Barrier Reef 
>  off Townsville, Cairns and Port Douglas I was so moved I decided until I could
>  buy tank bred fish I wouldn't even start. I now have a coldwater marine, and 
>  I've specimans I collected myself. I too have lost a few - others I've kept 
>  since day one.
>

I agree completely.  It is my feeling that we should only be able to purchase
tank bred fish.  Allow breeders to purchase wild fish for the purpose of
breeding.  What is more important, our need to have beautiful fish, or the
Earth's need to maintain a variety of life.  When tank bred corals, and marine
fish are available, I'll setup a tank of my own.  For now I'll stick with
a nice freshwater tank.


-- 
Daniel Cwiertniewicz       
Let's talk Bonsai !
Bonsai-l@foghorn.pass.wayne.edu            
Bonsai-l-request@foghorn.pass.wayne.edu                                    
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: tal@ubu.philips.com (Tal Barnea)
Subject: [M] Using water from dehumidifier
Followup-To: rec.aquaria
Organization: Philips Laboratories
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 16:05:17 GMT

I know that the answer to this will probably be that it is not a good
idea, but is there any reason not to use the water from my dehumidifier
for refills/water-changes of my marine tank?  The water is in contact
with the nickel plated tubes of the dehumidifier for only a short amount
of time, I doubt it could pick much off of them. Could that water be any
worse than my tap water?


       Tal Barnea                         tal@philabs.philips.com
       Philips Laboratories                       - or -       
       (914) 945-6275                 {uunet|ihnp4|decvax}!philabs!tal
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria,sci.aquaria
From: mfs@cray.com (Mark F. Sauder)
Subject: [F] aquarium salt
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 27 Jul 92 12:20:24 CDT

I have been adding "aquarium salt" to my fresh water tropical
aquarium (1 - 1/2 tsp. per gallon).  Recently someone suggested
using kosher salt as a cheaper alternitive ($1.49/3lbs vs. 1.29/8oz.).
I picked up a box of kosher salt and read the ingedients label.
It contains salt with Yellow Prussiate of Soda(anti-caking agent).
What is this and is it really safe to add to my aquarium.
Thanks.

Mark Sauder
mfs@ted.cray.com


Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:5915 alt.aquaria:4261