HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us (Joseph Nathan Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Bubblers, Filters [Re: Aeration of wort?]
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 92 02:08:51 EDT
Organization: 5 Sigma Software
Reply-To: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us
X-Mailer: uAccess - Macintosh Release: 1.5v5


In article <1992Dec16.181916.10115@aio.jsc.nasa.gov> (rec.crafts.brewing), andy rogers <rogers@ial3.jsc.nasa.gov> writes:
) In article <1992Dec16.161001.9327@sernews.raleigh.ibm.com> Charlie Murray,
) murray@rocky.raleigh.ibm.com writes:
) >My local homebrew shop (American Brewmaster in Raleigh, NC) is going to sell
) >an aeriation device that is basically a fish tank bubbler.  The claim is that
) >by leaving this thing in your primary for the first 24 hours, you will get
) >superior aeriation and subsequently fermentation (versus the slosh method).
) >Are they on the mark?
) 
) consider that you will be pumping air from the room into your beer and that
) air will be replacing the CO2 which would otherwise be resting in the
) fermenter headspace. unless you've also got a tank of 'clean' oxygen you're
) pumping from.

I've got a gizmo here that I found in some surplus lab equipment.
It's a fritted glass bubbler about the size of a skinny hot dog. 
Looks like it would make a great "airstone."  It appears to be probably
about UF pore size (what's that, 2-3 microns?).

If I wanted to use this and an aquarium pump to aerate my wort, should
I get an inline air filter to use with it?  Are there glass filters
that would be OK and that could be autoclaved?

=======================================================================
uunet!joebloe!joseph   (609) 273-8200 day   joseph%joebloe@uunet.uu.net
2102 Ryan's Run East        Rt 38 & 41             Maple Shade NJ 08052
Copyright 1992 by Joseph N. Hall.   Permission granted to copy and
redistribute freely over USENET and by email.  Commercial use prohibited.
From: sbeitzel@netcom.com (Stephen Beitzel)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Best Brewing Tunes?
Date: 20 Dec 92 22:19:14 GMT
Organization: Netcom Online Communications Services (408-241-9760 login: guest)

In article <01050166.lj1bnd@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us> joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us writes:
>
>So, does anyone out there have a favored musical brewing accompaniment?

Jethro Tull, either _Aqualung_ or _Songs from the Wood_.
Anything by the Ramones.
Soundtrack from _Mondo New York_.
Beethoven's 6th symphony (Pastorale).
-- 
Stephen Beitzel        | "Jack the sound barrier.   | Disclaimers are for 
<sbeitzel@netcom.com>  | Bring the noise."          | sucks; these opinions
<sbeitzel@wet.com>     | - Neal Stephenson          | belong to EVERYONE!
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: miller@polaron.physics.ColoState.EDU (Allen Miller)
Subject: Re: Dry Hopping Questions...
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 20:04:48 GMT
Reply-To: miller@lamar.colostate.edu
Organization: Department of Physics, Colorado State University

>In article <23200001@hpkslx.mayfield.HP.COM>,
russ@hpkslx.mayfield.HP.COM (Russ Lown) writes:
> Hi all,
> 
> I've noticed in a lot of the recipes posted here, dry hopping is involved.
> I would like to try dry hopping, but i'm not sure of the process.  

Just dump in some hops.  Experience will teach you how much to use.  Or
follow a recipie.  Some people just aren't hop-heads.

> 
> My main question deals with risk of infection from the hops.  Do i have
> to sterilize the hops before i add them to the secondary, or will the
> alcohol content of the secondary eliminate this risk?
> 

I've dry hopped a few dozen batches and not had a problem.  Just dump 'em
in and relax.

> Is it better to use hops in pellet or leaf form?
> 

Depends.  Its kinda fun getting those damn leaves into that little neck.
Or you can use pellets and get it over with right away.

> Maybe some of you whom have "dry hopped" could tell me what method you use.
> 

If the beer is being bottled, I don't mind getting a few pieces of hop
leaf into some of the bottles.  I think it adds a nice touch.  Of course
there are some out there who look funny at a bottle of beer with stuff
floating around in it.  When kegging, I try to be a bit more careful.
Leaves can really clog up the works.  I notice more hop particles in the
beer when I have used pelletized hops.



Allen Miller                                  miller@lamar.colostate.edu
Department of Physics
Colorado State University 
Fort Collins  CO
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: gak@wrs.com (Richard Stueven)
Subject: Re: Dry Hopping Questions...
Reply-To: gak@wrs.com
Organization: Wind River Systems, Inc.
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 00:17:40 GMT

In article 23200001@hpkslx.mayfield.HP.COM, russ@hpkslx.mayfield.HP.COM (Russ Lown) writes:
>
>Maybe some of you whom have "dry hopped" could tell me what method you use.

Well, I've never dryhopped, but I was talking with one Gerry Burke at
Pacific Coast's "Tasting of Christmas Beers IV" this weekend, and he
told me about his interesting method:

When it comes time to dryhop, rather than trying to stuff all those
loose hops into the carboy (where they just float around on top
anyway), he makes what he described as a "hop soup".  He heats (but
doesn't boil) about two ounces of hops in about three ounces of water,
and pours that soup into the fermenter, where it mixes into the beer
instead of floating on top.  (Not sure whether he cools it down
first...I would guess he does.)  He claims it works great, and it's a
lot easier to handle than trying to use leaf hops.

His $0.02 (not mine).

have fun
gak

---
Richard Stueven        gak@wrs.com         attmail!gakhaus!gak        107/H/3&4
	Did William Faulkner have little creatures on his old typewriter?
	If so, they were the product of whiskey, which addles the brain less
	than cartoon creatures and menus and buttons that send messages to
	the screen demanding: "Abort? Quit? Try Again? Drop Dead? Exit? Go To
	Hell You Schnook?" - Mike Royko
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: larry@physics.carleton.ca
Subject: Re: Fruit Flies
Organization: Dept. of Physics/CRPP Carleton University
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 20:43:45 GMT


 ibiggs@fox.nstn.ns.ca (Kevin Crawford) writes:
>I brewed a batch of beer last week, and during the primary fermentation, the 
>garbage bag on tied on top of the bucket came off and was sitting for some 
>period of time (no longer than 12 hours).  When I noticed the condition of 
>the brew, it already had 15-20 fruit flies hovering over it.  Though I didn'
>t see any inside the beer, it wouldn't suprise me if a couple enjoyed a 
>foamy death ( what a way to go).
>
>What is likely going to happen to my beer?

It'll turn to VINEGAR! ha - just kidding.  I'll be surprised if it's not
contaminated, but I'll bet the contamination won't be severe enough to affect
the taste.

>What can I do to eliminate the fruit fly factor in brewing?

Geez, man, just get a lid for your bucket and drill a hole through the center
into which you place a fermentation lock. Or if you've got $25, get a glass
carboy + fermentation lock and use the ``blow-off'' method.

I had a (one) fruit fly dive into my wort as I was pouring it from the 
brewpot into my primary bucket. This was my very 1st batch, so I was really
worried. (I know, DWHAHB) It turned out great! No signs of contamination.
So maybe ...

>I have full intention of proceeding with this batch of beer just in case it 
>didn't get  contaminated.  If it does, maybe I'll pull a Guinness and add 
>some sour beer to my next batch.

Right on! Never give up on your brew. In this game, there's lots of 
surprises.

>Any  help will be appreciated.

I'll be interested as to how it turns out.

Cheers,

Larry


-------------------I don't have a cute message---------------------------------
From: ech@ac.dal.ca
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Using bleach to sanitize
Date: 18 Dec 92 15:56:44 -0400
Organization: Dalhousie University, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

In article <1992Dec18.153507.22743@intellistor.com>, pyle@intellistor.com (Norm Pyle) writes:
> In article <1992Dec16.152530.9625@ac.dal.ca> ech@ac.dal.ca writes:
> 
> [snip]
> 
> [John D. writes about sanitizing with bleach and NOT rinsing]
> 
> [more snippage]
> 
>>	Sorry, but I will have to argue the point.  There is a reason to rinse:
>>chlorophenols.  After soaking a carboy in bleach, letting it air dry not only
>>takes a long time, but may leave chlorine behind.  I like the beer-rinse
>>suggestion, but due to budgetary constraints...  I use lukewarm water and 
>>steri-clean to wash and sanitize, then upend the carboy on the bottle washer
>>and thoroughly hose the inside with HOT water.  Hot water removes the chlorine
>>better than cold (hense the tepid water when sanitizing).  Then I let the 
>>carboy drip-dry.  The chlorine content of tap water is insufficient for
>>sanitizing, but is sufficient for ensuring a low bacteria count in the rinse
>>water.  A thorough rinse with hot water should remove the chlorine sufficiently
>>to prevent detectable levels of chlorophenols.
>>
>>	Rebuttals welcome
> 
> Thank you I'll try.  Do you KNOW what's living in your water heater tank?
> I've been told that life exists inside the water tank / hot water lines.
> What type of life?  I don't know but I DO know I don't want that kind of
> low-life in MY beer.  I'm very happy rinsing chlorine with cold water,
> assuming/realizing the following:
> 
> 1) the chlorine amounts will be reduced to parts per gazillion (stay with me,
>    I may get a little technical),
> 2) the chlorine's job is to kill bugs (I warned you this could get technical)
>    that were airborne, now sitting on my equipment,
> 3) the cold water's job is to reduce the amount of chlorine on the
>    equipment,
> 4) my cold tap water has a very low bacteria count, it is not zero,
> 5) warm (hot) water sitting in a tank has a greater chance for bacterial
>    growth than cold running water.
> 
> Oh and 6), it works for me.  Of course, I'm sure your method works for you.
> 
> Norm


	Accepted.  I do know how many beasties I have in my hot water and
cold water, I cultured them, and in my case (this may not hold for any other
given house) they are both very low.  Thorough rinsing with cold water will
dilute the chlorine sufficiently, yes, it just takes longer.  But, I must add,
that you do still rinse, you do not simply let the bleach dry off.

	Ed
From: wkdodds@matt.ksu.ksu.edu (Walter K Dodds)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Guinness vs Tooth
Date: 15 Dec 1992 11:52:30 -0600
Organization: Kansas State University
NNTP-Posting-Host: matt.ksu.ksu.edu
Summary: Guinness vs Tooth
Keywords: stout

what ingredients cause the difference in taste between Guinness and Tooth?
thanks
wkdodds @ ksuvm.ksu.edu
From: djt2@po.CWRU.Edu (Dennis J. Templeton)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Xylitol info requested
Date: 18 Dec 1992 19:15:43 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: djt2@po.CWRU.Edu (Dennis J. Templeton)
NNTP-Posting-Host: thor.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us (Joseph Nathan Hall) says:

>
>So,
>
>If I get my hands on some xylitol (or sorbitol) and want to use it to 
>sweeten mead, wine, stout, etc. ...
>
>what do I do?  How much do I use?  Handling/ingestion considerations?

I don't know why you'd want to.  The norm is to use lactose (milk sugar)
for this, and that is a lot cheaper too.

The last time this came up lots of people chimed up about how they or
their friends are allergic to milk sugar.  I'm not scoffing, but many more
people claim to be lactose intolerant (i.e. deficient in lactase)  than
there really are.  Many of these same people claimed to prefer xylitol or
sorbitol too, but I *think* that both of these sugar/alcohols are not
metabolized by humans either, i.e. they could cause the same symptoms as
lactose in intolerant individuals.

The last time I tasted sorbitol, it had a funny taste too, kind of
cool-minty.

I've been tempted to make a sour milk stout some time, i.e. add a quart of
curdled milk to the boil; the lactose would contribute sweetness, and the
spoilage some tartness.  I'd expect hot break mucho grande from the milk
proteins.

Hope the thought of this doesn't gag anyone.  Input on milk stout is
appreciated, since I haven't tried this at all.
From: spl@ivem.ucsd.edu (Steve Lamont)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: water and carboys
Date: 19 Dec 1992 15:30:26 GMT
Organization: University of Calif., San Diego/Microscopy and Imaging Resource
NNTP-Posting-Host: ivem.ucsd.edu

In article <BzHpDB.Bqp@news.cso.uiuc.edu> amead@s.psych.uiuc.edu (Alan Mead) writes:
>So, anyway, I considered buying water and it turns out that Hinkley &
>Schmidt sell 5g of Mountain Valley (I think) with a 5g glass jug (I
>think the operator even agreed that it was a carboy) for about $10.66 +
>$6 deposit.  I think most places want $15 to 20 for the carboy alone, so
>this sounds like a deal.  Does anyone know if this thing is suitable to
>brew in?

Yup.  Just the thing.  Hey, you can even return the carboy to the
vendor when you're done with the batch and get *them* to clean it for
you! :-)

>Also, where do you get bottles?  A local liquor store will sell me
>dirty refundables for $1.50/case.  But these are the same kind of
>bottles that you can pop the bottom off of with a sharp blow to the neck
>(It's pretty cool bet if you ever find yourself in a patio bar wanting
>to splash a beer all over the place).  I'm wondering if I should go to
>the trouble of getting new ones?

Uh... what kind of bars to you hang out in? :-)

>Or, if not, will any old bottles do?  I have a friend who drinks the
>likes of Coors Light like a fish.  I'm sure I could get plenty of those
>types for free.

Depends.  If they're twist off type bottles, some suggest that the
bottles too thin to stand much handling (recapping, etc).  I've had
problems with getting a good seal on twist offs but that may just be
me.  The refundables are probably a better bet in the long run.

Oh, and see if you can get some help for your friend (a homebrew or
two will probably cure that nasty habit). :-)

							spl
-- 
Steve Lamont, SciViGuy -- (619) 534-7968 -- spl@szechuan.ucsd.edu
UCSD Microscopy and Imaging Resource/UCSD Med School/La Jolla, CA 92093-0608
Where is the summer, the unimaginable
Zero summer?                 - T.S. Eliot, "Little Gidding"
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: wolo@cory.Berkeley.EDU (Greg Wolodkin)
Subject: Re: Fermentation time
Keywords: ouch.
Organization: University of California at Berkeley
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 02:58:17 GMT

Kirk Sayre writes:
> Both batches started out with a tremendous initial fermentation (both
> blew off close to 1.5 gallons of beer, and I almost had my eye put out
> by the blowoff tube plug exploding out of the carboy on the most
> recent batch).

Mom always said, "It's all fun and games until somebody loses an eye!" ;-)

Greg
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: andy rogers <rogers@ial3.jsc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Re: Dry Hopping Questions...
X-Xxdate: Wed, 16 Dec 92 14:41:12 GMT
Organization: Lockheed Engineering
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d13
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 14:42:00 GMT

In article <1glvmsINNica@agate.berkeley.edu> John H. Hartman,
jhh@sprite.berkeley.edu writes:
>I just dump the hops into the secondary. To siphon the beer out of
>the secondary I put a nylon pot scrubber inside a hop bag and put
>the bag over the end of the siphon tube. This keeps the hops from
>clogging the tube. As for avoiding infection, my technique is to
>"don't worry and have a homebrew". I've only dry-hopped a handful
>of batches but haven't had a problem yet.

i plan on dry hopping my next batch too. so what's wrong with using a hop bag
in the secondary? (and toss the infection concern)

aNDY
----
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: malodah@pbhyf.PacBell.COM (Martin A. Lodahl)
Subject: Re: Fruit Flies
Reply-To: malodah@PacBell.COM (Martin A. Lodahl)
Organization: Pacific * Bell, San Ramon, CA
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 22:06:28 GMT

In article <ibiggs.17@fox.nstn.ns.ca> ibiggs@fox.nstn.ns.ca (Kevin Crawford) writes:

[ About a batch of beer that may have come in contact with fruit flies ]

>What is likely going to happen to my beer?

Fruit flies are known vectors of acetic acid bacteria.  That's why 
spiders are encouraged in lambik breweries.

>What can I do to eliminate the fruit fly factor in brewing?

Fermenting in a carboy can't hurt.  But there are certain phases where
it's difficult to avoid the little rascals altogether.  This procedure
might work:

	1.  Use a counterflow chiller.  The wort in your kettle will
then always be too hot to harbor the bacteria.

	2.  Run the outflow of the chiller into your carboy, and
pack the neck of the carboy with non-absorbant wound dressing ("packing
cotton").  Pack the neck similarly whenever you rack.

	3.  Use a similar setup for bottling, keep the bottle necks
covered with foil until the moment of filling, then cap immediately.

It occurs to me that a setup like this would work pretty well for many
different kinds of infection problems.

DISCLAIMER:  I don't do _any_ of this myself, though replacing my
immersion chiller with a counterflow device is on my "to do" list.

Good luck!
-- 
= Martin A. Lodahl    [DoD, AHA, NRA]  Systems Analyst, Pacific*Bell =
= malodah@PacBell.COM		Sacramento, CA, USA     916.972.4821 =
= If it's good for ancient Druids, runnin' nekkid through the wuids, =
= Drinkin' strange fermented fluids, it's good enough for me!!  8-)} =
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: fortner@hal.eng.ufl.edu (Dave Fortner)
Subject: Re: Gleaming immersion chiller
Organization: University of Florida
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 92 17:46:39 GMT

In article <6851@dciem.dciem.dnd.ca> king@dciem.dciem.dnd.ca (Stephen King) writes:
>In article <1992Dec15.230444.15794@spdc.ti.com> holloway@epcot.spdc.ti.com (Tom Holloway) writes:
>> ... Perhaps stainless 
>>steel tubing would be a better material for wort chillers. Does anyone know a 
>>good source of SS tubing $$^(?
>
>Can't help you there, but I would like to suggest using glass tubing for a
>wort chiller. I have an old lab condensor that I'm going to try. Although
>the length of the inner glass spiral is not great, I am hoping that
>circulating ice water through the outer sleeve (via an aquarium pump) will
>do the trick. Anyway, it should be possible to get a neon sign company to
>make up a long glass chiller - any comments?
>
The k value (termal transfer) is not very good, therefore it would
not be a very effecent chiller. But this may be offset by the fact
that you would not (should not) get any contaminants from the glass.
I do not use a copper chiller because I don't want the copper oxide
in my beer.

Dave Fortner
Fortner-D@3mail.ksc.nasa.gov

Disclaimer: I AIN'T RESPONSIBLE FOR NOTHIN'

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: peterm@dtc.hp.com (Sweet Pete)
Subject: Re: Gleaming immersion chiller
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 00:02:28 GMT
Organization: Where No Man Has Gone Before
Keywords: should I worry? ;-)

In article <1992Dec14.214830.7877@news.nd.edu> ulick@michaelangelo.helios.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford) writes:
>
>This would worry me.  I have a copper tube that never changes color when
>I use it to chill my wort.  It stays a dull oxidized color.  If I were 
>you I'd check the pH of my water.  It sounds incredibly soft and acidity
>could be way too low.  Copper will give off flavor at a certain level, but
>really shouldn't dissolve into beer.

Greg lives in Berkeley, where they get Hetch Hetchy water.  However, I live
in Sunnyvale, with much harder water, and get the same thing.  I wouldn't go
so far as to say the chiller is gleaming, but it's certainly a lot brighter
than the parts that don't get immersed.

Maybe I should get the pH measured also ....

	Peter
-- 
Peter C. Maxwell,                      ARPA:   peterm@dtc.hp.com
Hewlett-Packard Company,
5301 Stevens Creek Blvd, MS 53U/36,    UUCP:   ..!hplabs!aoraki!peterm
Santa Clara, CA 95052-8059             (408) 553 2512
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: klumpp@casbah.acns.nwu.edu (David Klumpp) Klumpp) (David Klumpp)
Subject: Re: Kegs
Followup-To: rec.crafts.brewing
Organization: Northwestern U.
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 23:54:22 GMT

I spent many hours on the phone before I found a cheaper (than the local HB
shop) place for kegs and associated equip.

							BCI Industries
							Brighton, TN
							(901) 476-8000
													476-4811 fax

They have 3, 5, and 10 gal kegs.  Their 2 ga regulators are ca $15 cheaper
than the local shop at $36.  I don't remember the prices on kegs, but they
were reasonable (and much lower on the 3 gal than my local source). 
Deliveries are in 2 days (to Chicago), and orders are paid C.O.D.

David Klumpp
Dept. Biochemistry, Molecular Biology and Cell Biology
Northwestern Univeristy
2153 Sheridan
Evanston, IL 60208
klumpp@casbah.acns.nwu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: holloway@epcot.spdc.ti.com (Tom Holloway)
Subject: Re: Gleaming immersion chiller
Organization: TI Semiconductor Process and Design Center
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 23:04:44 GMT

In article <1992Dec15.203331.19222@enterprise.rdd.lmsc.lockheed.com> norman_strampach@qm.is.lmsc.lockheed.com (Norman Strampach) writes:
>In article <1992Dec13.090045.22759@pasteur.Berkeley.EDU>, wolo@cory.Berkeley.EDU (Greg Wolodkin) writes:
>> 
>> Greetings - 
>> 
>> Having put together an immersion wort chiller from 25' of copper 
>> tubing several weeks ago, I noticed the following: 
>> 
>>     1) the copper tubing oxidizes when not in use.. when it comes
>>        time to use it, it looks fairly dull and brownish, like 
>>        most copper pipes do.
>> 
>>     2) After chilling the wort, the copper comes out gleaming.
>> 
>> I clean the thing before and after use, and make sure to boil it
>> for a minute or two before chilling just to be sure.  My question
>> is this -- should I be worried about where the oxide coating
>> (that used to be on the surface of the chiller) ends up?
>> Thanks in advance for any comments/suggestions.
>
>Do you have any aluminum in the system?  A method of polishing silver
>is to put your silver stuff in an aluminum pot and throw in a little salt
>as an electrolyte.  This may be happening to your copper.  You would be 
>converting the copper oxides to copper and the aluminum to aluminum oxide.
>It doesn't have to be aluminum but maybe steel or any metal that has a
>higher oxidation potential than copper.
>Good luck in tracking this down>
>
I also get bright shiny copper after cooling my wort in a stainless steel pot.
I believe that the acidic wort is actually removing some of the copper just 
as you would in dipping a copper penney in nitric acid. Perhaps stainless 
steel tubing would be a better material for wort chillers. Does anyone know a 
good source of SS tubing $$^(?

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: andy rogers <rogers@ial3.jsc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Re: Is my water too hard?
X-Xxdate: Tue, 15 Dec 92 17:04:16 GMT
Organization: Lockheed Engineering
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d13
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 17:06:41 GMT

In article <1gkulfINNbsq@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> Steven Zabarnick,
bq840@cleveland.Freenet.Edu writes:
>I'm about to start my first ever attempt at home-brewing, but
>I'm concerned about using our tap water. According to our city,
>our water has a hardness of 420 mg/liter CaCO3. This seems quite
>high compared with the discussions I've seen on the net. Is my
>water to hard to make good beer?

i can't answer your question directly, but ...

if you are concerned about it, buy bottled water for the brew. it'snmy
understanding that most of this has just about the right hardness for beer as
it is intended for drinking. i've done this a lot with great success.

or use distilled water and add burton water salts.

andy
----