HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: ericb@microsoft.com (Eric Brown)
Subject: Re: nailers
Date: 28 Sep 92 21:31:04 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp

In article  Doug Cutler <UNCDWC@UNCVM1.BITNET> writes:
|   I have had a Senco SFN1 for about 18 months, I like it very much and use
|it for installing moulding and trim.  It isn't too heavy for continual
|overhead use, the air hose may be heavier!!, and have found the 1-2 ins. range
|OK for current projects.  The main negative is that there is little control
|over the depth the nail is driven, putting up 3/16" wainscoting with it
|it drove the nails right though the plywood so they didn't hold, had to use
|a piece of carboard under the "foot" to reduce the depth.  The other "problem"
|which is going to apply to most nailers is the cost of the nails, though $30
|or so for 5,000 nails isn't expensive that outlay for two or three different
|lengths gets to be quite appreciable.

One quick trick to try to reduce the amount of set is to turn the air
pressure down.  It takes some experimenting to get it close to where you
want it and it is not real consistent, but it is easy.  A more permanent
method is to grind down the end of the driver shank (the part that actually
pushes the nail).  This was easy to do before air guns came with safeties.
All you had to do is take the plugged-in nailer over to a bench grinder,
fire a nail into a piece of scrap and leave the trigger depressed to keep the
driver protruding from the nailer.  With a safety, you probably can't do this
so you would need to disassemble the nailer top and pull the piston/shank
assembly out.

Re: the cost of nails: as with any power tool, you need to balance the cost
against the time saved.  The price of the nails also decreases considerably
per nail if you buy in large quantities.  The mark-up on the nails is so high
that most larger cabinet shops and furniture factories get the nailers on
permanent loan (complete with on-site service) for purchasing sufficient
quantities of fasteners.

-- 
    Eric
               Microsoft Systems, Advanced Systems Development
            {sun, uw-beaver, apple, uunet, fluke}!microsoft!ericb 
                       internet: ericb@microsoft.com
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 29 Sep 1992 21:08:01 GMT
Reply-To:     bennett@adobe.com
Comments:     Warning -- original Sender: tag was
              WOODWORK%IPFWVM.BITNET@PUCC.PRINCETON.EDU
From:         "(Bennett Leeds)" <bennett@ADOBE.COM>
Subject:      Re: need advice on shaper

Eric Brown writes
> Do you have a good table saw?  If so, then you don't need a shaper at all.
> You can make perfectly good tongue and groove joints with a dado head...

A molding head cutter is even simpler.


> WRT shapers: if you do decide to use a shaper, consider the weight to be an
> asset rather than a liability.  Shapers tend to vibrate a lot, which is
> annoying and can produce a poor cut.  The mass of a heavier shaper tends to
> dampen vibration.

I believe that it's better to eliminate vibration by having dynamically
balanced parts than to dampen vibration by brute force (weight). If you've
driven a car where the front wheels aren't properly balanced, you know what
adding an ounce or so on the rim of a many pound car wheel can do to the
car's ride.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
"And remember this - there's no more important safety rule than to wear
these: safety glasses."
From: pdixon@aslan.eng.sun.com (Peter Dixon, Sun Software Product Support)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Table saws...and rust
Date: 30 Sep 1992 17:55:44 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.  Mt. View, Ca.
Distribution: usa
Reply-To: pdixon@aslan.eng.sun.com (Peter Dixon, Sun Software Product Support)
NNTP-Posting-Host: aslan.eng.sun.com

I'm currently shopping for a table saw.  (My intended use is cabinetry
with, no doubt, some rough carpentry work thrown in as well.)  I've
narrowed my choices to the Delta Contractor's saw w/Unifence, or the
Ryobi BT3000.  

Once prime advantage of the Ryobi, for my purposes, is its cast aluminum
table.  (I live in the Santa Cruz mountains of California; in the winter
it's essentially a rain forest, very high humidity.)  On the other hand,
after looking at the saw, I'm concerned about the unusual miter gauge --
it seemed rather prone to slipping away from the angle desired.

The Delta has the advantage of being some sort of "standard."  But...
I'm worried about rust.  Can anyone suggest a treatment that will
alleviate the rust issue, and not mess up the wood being worked?

General comments on the relative merits of the two saws will also be
appreciated.

peter

Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 29 Sep 1992 10:09:04 -0800
From:         RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM
Subject:      Re: developed vs rated hp

"Developed horse power" (DHP) is marketing expression. It is a shortend
version of "Couldn't develope that much horse power in our wildest dreems".
Since some marketing types have wilder dreems than others you can't realy use
DHPs for comparison accross manufacturers.

Because the same marketing type may have wilder dreems some nights you can't
even depend on DHPs from the same manufacturer (check out the DHPs VS amps on
sears shop vac's, it's pretty funny).

Horse power is pretty confused too. Air compresser motors seem to be mesured
in clydesdales (17.5 amps = 1 hp); but, routers (at least some) are mesured in
ponies (12 amps = 3 hp).

I've given up on DHPs & HPs and only use amps (or watts) when comparing
power. So far it's worked very well for me (the marketing types haven't
started dreeming about amps yet). I think a lot of people are starting to
catch on because Sears has stoped printing the electrical power specs in
there tool catalog.

                        Ron Tye (all opinions my own)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: kjk@unislc.uucp (Kirt Krammer)
Subject: Re: How do I bend an oak 4x4?
Organization: Unisys Corporation SLC
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 18:03:14 GMT

From article <dnsurber.718036807@node_26400>, by dnsurber@lescsse.jsc.nasa.gov (Douglas N. Surber):
> 
> I want to make two curved 4" diameter beams, 80" long. They will have a
> smooth circular arc 4" high in the center relative to the ends. If I
> could remember enough geometry I would tell you what the radius of the
> bend was. I would like to use white oak. Any suggestions would be
> welcome.
> 
> My current plan is to start with a square 4x4, cut it to an octagonal
> cross section, bend it to the correct arc, and then smooth it into a
> round cross section.
> 
> I am kind of worried about bending an oak 4x4. Is this something I can
> do at home or is it best left to "trained professionals"?  How much 
> force is it going to take to bend this sucker?
> 
> I plan to use an old piece of PVC drain pipe for a steam box.  I will
> build a form and use a strap clamp to pull the thing into shape.  I will
> have to protect the strap from the heat and sharp corners (spacer
> blocks).  Can I generate enough force to bend the beam?  Am I creating
> some kind of bomb that will result in this big piece of oak bounding
> about the shop with no respect for life and limb? Is there a better
> way?
> 
> Now that I have this curved octagonal beam, how do I make it round? I've
> never seen a 2" roundover bit for a router and I don't have a shaper.
> I'm not very good at wielding sharp tools freehand so I would like
> something requiring less dexterity than a spokeshave.
> 
> Suggestions, comments, and guffaws appreciated.
> 
> Douglas Surber
> Lockheed
> Houston, TX
> 
-- 
Kirt Krammer                            speaking for hisself                
Unisys Corp, D1V03
322 N. 2200 W., Salt Lake City, UT 84116
801-594-5742   kjk@unislc.slc.unisys.com  -or- unislc!kjk
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: Tablesaws and their warranties
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 21:44:53 GMT

24224-guthrie writes
> In article <1992Oct2.153859.20420@newshub.sdsu.edu> oliver@delphi (George  
Oliver) writes:
> >Like many people in this group, I have tablesaw questions.  I am thinking
> >about getting a tablesaw and am curious about how significant warranty
> >periods are.
> 
> The following consists of my opinions. Others are, of course, entitled
> to hold and share their own.
> 
> Personally, I do not regard a warranty as particularly important.

Personally, I feel the breath and length of a warranty often shows how
much confidence a manufacturer has in his product.


> Most
> manufacturers require that the tool be either returned to them, freight
> prepaid, or taken to an "authorized service center".

It's not always the whole tool, sometime just the bad part will suffice.
For Delta, I've heard of cases where the service rep. has come out to 
the owner's shop to make repairs and adjustments.


BTW, the original poster mentioned AMT's 10 year warranty. My recollection
may be wrong, but I believe that all AMT is warranting is that they
will keep parts in stock for 10 years - not that they will replace for
free parts that break within 10 years of purchase.

My recollection is that Grizzly's warranty is 90 days: only Grizzly's
motors have a 1 year warranty. BTW, In correspondence posted to the net
earlier this year, Mr. Balolia has said: 

   Incidentally, I have many a time, authorized free repairs to machinery
   that was out of warranty, but when it was apparent that a flaw existed
   from the factory.  Now, this is not an open invitation for a lifetime
   warranty, but rather a statement of fact that we are fair and equitable
   and not just out to make a sale.

If my recollections on the official warranty periods are incorrect,
please post the real story (and I apologize in advance).

Delta has 1 and 2 year warranties depending on the product. 
Inca machinery comes with a 5 year warranty.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
"And remember this - there's no more important safety rule than to wear
these: safety glasses."
From: parnass@cbnewse.cb.att.com (Bob Parnass, AJ9S)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: mail order saw problems
Summary: Williams Tool & Hardware Supply
Date: 5 Oct 92 19:50:19 GMT
Article-I.D.: cbnewse.1992Oct5.195019.29102
Distribution: na
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories, Naperville, IL

In article <1992Oct5.185337.13861@ichips.intel.com>,
pmeyer@.intel.com (Paul Meyer) wrote about a problem
with Williams Tool & Hardware Supply.

Thanks for the  posting.   I  have  ordered  several  items  from
Williams  without  problems,  but  I  do  recall seeing one other
complaint about them claiming an item was in stock  when  it  was
not.

Hope they "educate" the salesman who caused you  the  problem  so
*I* don't get stuck with him should I order from Williams again.

BTW, I had similar problems with getting a Porter Cable RO sander
from  an  abrasives  company  in PA (something with Quaker in the
name) and an equalizer from DAK.  They both claimed goods were in
stock when they were not, causing a delay in shipping.
-- 
==============================================================================
Bob Parnass, AJ9S  -  AT&T Bell Labs  -  parnass@ihlpm.att.com - (708)979-5414
From: zari@ee.fit.edu (Kevin Zari)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: scroll
Summary: any new scroll saw pattern books out there?
Date: 29 Sep 92 01:57:26 GMT
Organization: Florida Tech, CP/EE Dept.


 Are there any NEW (published in 1991/92) scroll saw pattern
books out  there. if so, please e-mail me
.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: guy@slustl.slu.edu (Guy Smith)
Subject: Re: Window glazing
Organization: Saint Louis University  Saint Louis, MO
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 14:49:32 GMT

In article <DRAND.92Oct1154519@spinner.osf.org> drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas S. Rand) writes:
>In article <BvG14u.L9r@acsu.buffalo.edu> bartnik@acsu.buffalo.edu (David Bartnik) writes:
>
>Make sure the glazing isn't old and hard.  You might be able to
>soften it with a little mineral spirits,  turpentine or some
You might also try another can or brand. The first can of glazing I used
behaved much like you describe. When I finally finished it and bought
another, all of a sudden life got much easier. I don't know what the
problem was, maybe age or misformulation. It also helps to have a clean
polished putty knife. I have one that I use for nothing else so it doesn't
get rusty or scratched up.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: New toy
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 92 15:40:36 GMT

In article <1992Oct1.025157.16315@afit.af.mil> fkilpatr@afit.af.mil (Freeman A. Kilpatrick) writes:

>>................................................................. It's
>>an orbital sander (though it doesn't say so), but that's the only mode
>>of operation - you can't shift to straight line sanding.
>
>I've heard of this type of "dual-mode" orbital sander, but I've never
>actually seen one (or at least I was never aware of it).  Can someone
>refer me to a common brand sander that does this?
>

I used to own a Craftsman that had a selector switch. As of 1981, they
were still making it. The top bearing (a babbit sleeve) went bad in less
than a year. When it did, the vibration enlarged the mounting socket in
the casing, so the whole unit became junk. I wouldn't recommend that sander.

patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | Of course truth is stranger than fiction; after
                    | all, good fiction must make sense.
                    |                        Samuel Clemens
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: Makita TableSaw
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 20:13:08 GMT

Bill Wiegand writes
> ... My question-----Though I've never seen one, does anyone
> have any experience with Makita table saws?  My Makita catalog lists
> two models.
> All opinions will be appreciated.

Makita's two models are both benchtop units. There was a review of bench
top saws a couple of years ago in FHB which covered both saws, the Delta,
and the Ryobi BT-2500 (not the fancy new one). The small Makita takes an
8.25" blade, and has been discussed in other posts.

The larger one takes a 10" blade and has a sliding table at the left. The
table has a pivoting & removable back fence for mitering. For ripping you
have to remove the fence, which is a pain (I don't know if the table
fixes for ripping). A recent (this year) FWW issue covered this Makita, the 
newer Ryobi, the Shopsmith sliding arbor, and the Mafael (spelling?) sliding 
arbor saws.

Both Makita designs are quite old. The new Ryobi unit has more versatility, 
but some people have complained about the plastic parts. Given what
you're spending on the larger Makita, I'd much rather get a regular
contractors saw (like the Delta), and make myself a nice cutoff box.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
"And remember this - there's no more important safety rule than to wear
these: safety glasses."
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ericb@microsoft.com (Eric Brown)
Subject: Re: need advice on shaper
Date: 30 Sep 92 20:29:50 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp
Distribution: na

In article  bennett@adobe.com writes:
|Eric Brown writes
|> Do you have a good table saw?  If so, then you don't need a shaper at all.
|> You can make perfectly good tongue and groove joints with a dado head...
|
|A molding head cutter is even simpler.

Agreed, although a carbide dado head will keep its edge much longer than a
HSS molding head.

|
|> WRT shapers: if you do decide to use a shaper, consider the weight to be an
|> asset rather than a liability.  Shapers tend to vibrate a lot, which is
|> annoying and can produce a poor cut.  The mass of a heavier shaper tends to
|> dampen vibration.
|
|I believe that it's better to eliminate vibration by having dynamically 
|balanced parts than to dampen vibration by brute force (weight). If you've 
|driven a car where the front wheels aren't properly balanced, you know what 
|adding an ounce or so on the rim of a many pound car wheel can do to the
|car's ride.

While I agree that it is good to strive for minimizing imbalance, it is not
possible to completely eliminate vibration, even if the arbor, bearings, and
cutterhead are all high-speed dynamically balanced.  The v-belt(s) alone
contribute to the level of vibration.  I guess the average wood hobbyist (sp?)
would not be grinding shaper knives; I have done so and the only balancing
available was a simple beam balance.  The impact of the knives against the
wood being cut also produces significant vibration.  Given the choice, I will
always opt for a heavier shaper (and I have used a lot of shapers, having been
a furniture factory jig and fixture builder in a former vocational mode).

|- Bennett Leeds
|bennett@adobe.com
|"And remember this - there's no more important safety rule than to wear
|these: safety glasses."

-- 
    Eric
               Microsoft Systems, Advanced Systems Development
            {sun, uw-beaver, apple, uunet, fluke}!microsoft!ericb 
                       internet: ericb@microsoft.com
From: ron@topaz.bds.com (Ron Natalie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: need help using a scraper
Date: 6 Oct 1992 18:29:51 GMT
Organization: BDS Systems
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: topaz.bds.com

The way I sharpen a scraper is from Tage Frid (Vol 2, I believe).

First flatten it.  This I do by rubbing it a few times on the stone.

Second, burnish it.  As Frid suggests, I use the back of a chisel (why
pay money for a piece of hardened steel that you can't use for anything
else?) and run it along the edge just tilted from perpendicular to
the scraper.

Pine's pretty rough to practice with as it doesn't scrape all that well
to start with.  Try a piece of hardwood 'til you get the hang of it.

-Ron
From: oliver@delphi (George Oliver)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Tablesaws and their warranties
Date: 2 Oct 92 15:38:59 GMT
Organization: San Diego State University, College of Sciences
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]

Like many people in this group, I have tablesaw questions.  I am thinking
about getting a tablesaw and am curious about how significant warranty
periods are.  I have a small garage and need a saw I can move around but
I also want one that is sturdy and will last a long time.  I figure that I
need some sort of contractors saw.  I have looked at the Delta, Ryobi BT3000,
Grizzly, and AMT.  Because of price and possitive opions in this group, I am
leaning towards the Grizzly.  However, the AMT appears to be of similar
quality but they offer a 10 year parts warranty compared with the Grizzly 1
year warranty.  What are peoples opinions on this.  Also, what do you guys
think of the AMT brand.  Any other opinions on contractor size tablesaws are
appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

Geo.

George Oliver
NRaD, Code 423
email: oliver@nosc.mil
From: twl10@ccc.amdahl.com (Tom Littauer)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Need Brass Hardware!!
Summary: Vandyke's Restorers
Date: 28 Sep 92 18:03:03 GMT
Reply-To: twl10@JUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Tom Littauer)
Distribution: na
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

In article <199209281306.AA16975@tuna.wang.com> STEVE.BUSSELL@OFFICE.WANG.COM ("Steve Bussell") writes:
>I'm in the final stages of finishing a Queen Anne style mahogany china cabinet
>and need a good source for period solid brass hardware, drawer pulls, hinges
>and knobs.

That isn't a style I work with, but let me recommend a place that may be
able to help:

Vandyke's Restorers
4th Ave. & 6th St., PO Box 278
Woonsocket, South Dakota 57385 USA
+1 605 796-4425
800-843-3320 (orders only)

Catalog is free, I believe, and is 264 pages long.

They stock supplies for Upholstery, Antique Restoration, Taxidermy(!), and
other stuff I've never seen another source for (e.g. curved sheet glass, stock
and special order).

Perhaps this ought to be in the FAQ, it's a good source of strange stuff
(wrought nails, several head patterns AND brass plated; 9 styles of carved
drawer pulls each in 2 sizes and choice of 5 woods, 9 more in oak only;
15" X 1 3/8" OD steel rollers $7.75, 10 for $6.75 each; and LOTS of antique
reproduction hardware)

Good luck,
Tom
-- 
Tom Littauer at Amdahl M/S 278, PO Box 3470, Sunnyvale CA 94088-3470 USA
+1 408 737 5056     twl10@juts.ccc.amdahl.com     twl10@amail.amdahl.com
I'll tell you when I'm speaking as Amdahl's Spokesman - usually I'm not.
V'z n fgrnygu-grpuabybtl rapelcgrq .fvtangher ivehf - TBGPUN!!!
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: No more important safety rule than this.
Date: 30 Sep 92 16:45:15 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <29SEP199210413345@lims02.lerc.nasa.gov> kimnach@lims02.lerc.nasa.gov (GREG KIMNACH) writes:
>In article <1992Sep24.203340.8097@col.hp.com>, saksa@col.hp.com (Tom Saksa) writes...
>>What I would like to do is get them some safety goggles. I have a
>>pair of child size safety glasses, and I can also find the type
>>that kids use in Jr. High chemistry classes.  But what I would
>>really like to find is the same type of goggles I wear only in a
>>child size.  You know, the kind with the soft plastic wrap-around
>>frames that you see in most hardware stores.

>>Can you get this type of goggles in kids sizes?  I am starting to
>>think that the folks that make safety devices just assume that
>>kids will never do anything dangerous. :)

Lee Valley (and I presume Garret Wade) carries this type.  Advertised
as being for 5 to 12 yearolds.  $6.95CDN (around $5.50US).  I don't
know whether it's NIOSH rated (it probably is, Lee Valley doesn't
sell junk - the picture looks good), but I'll find out soon.  I was
planning on picking up a pair for my 3 year old (if they fit properly -
he has a large head ;-) yesterday, but timing intervened.

See the 1992/1993 Lee Valley catalog, page 80.  Item 22R30.01.

>I would like to add that it is equally important--though not as 
>dramatically apparent--to protect the ears from the excessive noise in your
>shop.  Hearing loss comes a bit at a time.

Agreed.

Lee Valley also just advertised in their Fall 1992 "special buys"
catalog a pair of 22dB earmuffs for $9.95CDN (item 22R15.01).  (Same
sound reduction rating as the more serious $30/$40 types).  I'll
report on how well it fits (or can be modified to fit) a 3 year old.
(There's no way he'd wear earplugs)

I'll also be looking into dustmasks that'll fit.

[Gregory's been pretty good at keeping daddy-size safety glasses
and a play-version hardhat on whilst "helping" daddy in the
shop, so now I gotta get serious with real safety gear.  I'm
getting serious about safety gear for myself too - daddy's getting
hearing protectors and a real filter mask (I just went thru several
days of coughing up cedar dust on top of a cold), plus a dust
collector soon.]
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 28 Sep 1992 12:44:00 EDT
From:         DAVID FARR <dfarr@ASRR.ARSUSDA.GOV>
Subject:      RE CORIAN COUNTER TOPS

A couple or more years ago Fine Home Building had an article on making and
installing a corian counter top.  This included routing out drain grooves.

Dave Farr