From: brian@Schultz.ON.CA (Brian Manion)
Subject: Re: Blizzard Suspension Rebuild
Organization: Sutherland-Schultz Limited, Kitchener, ON
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1992 22:32:19 GMT

In article <1992Oct5.185443.27003@meaddata.com> dougr@meaddata.com (Doug Ritter) writes:
>Finally got around to working on my poor old Blizzard.  It's not really
>as bad as I had at first imagined, although it's gonna take some work to
>get it straightened out.  The worst part is that the front shaft of the
>suspension is bent - when it bent it also slightly warped the tunnel,
>but that will probably straighten out when I put the repaired suspension
>back in.

 This is a typical problem with this suspension.  The front suspension 
arm takes quite a beating.  If you look in a Kimpex catalogue, you will
see that this part is available, which obviously means it is a typical
wear item.  I welded mine time and time again, and finally bought one
from bombardier for $90.00. Kimpex should be considerably cheaper.  


>I've got a bunch of suspension-related questions for y'all, but first a
>couple of comments on my 'findings':
>
>o I'm amazed at the simplicity of the Blizzard's suspension.  There's only
>  one shock in it and it doesn't really seem to do all that much - it
>  seems like all the work is done by the 4 coil springs.

  This is true, combined with the front limiter strap.  If the limiter
strap is not properly set up you will know the difference in transfer
when you take off.
>
>o Once again, I'm impressed by how sturdily this sled was built!  It's
>
>o After taking the thing apart, I'm *much* more inclined to agree with
>  the assesment that it's "a 2x4 on skis".  It's not a whole lot more
>  technical than the old bogie-wheel suspensions.
    I know.  My back knows too.>

>  - sliders?  They seem to be in good shape, but what do I know?

   The sliders usually wear at the back first, if you look at the 
very end of the slider at the front, it is probably in original size.
Note that when you remove the sliders there is a small bolt in the front
holding the slider on.

>  - Coil springs?  Ditto, although they've been in the "sprung" position
>    for 12 years.

  If you go to bombardier, you can get a heavier set of springs.  Each
spring is colour coded.  ie. write down the colour of your stock ones
and get a set one level heavier.  I did this on mine and there was a 
significant improvement in the suspension.

>  - Coil spring bushings?  Not much to these really, just a piece of
>    some sort of plastic.  They're worn a little, is there anything to
>    gain by replacing them?

   Not really.

>
>  - The rear arm of the suspension has 2 points of attachment, 1 to the
>    tunnel (shock attaches here) and one to the slide rails.  Where it
>    attaches to the slide rails is not a "hard" attachment - it slides
>    back and forth 3 or 4 inches.  There are short pieces of hyfax there.
>    The whole rear arm seems real loose, a lot of that play is the shock
>    (which I'm replacing for sure), but part of it is in this "hyfax" attach
>    point.  Should I replace that stuff or is this play normal?
>

  Yes.

>o Like I said, the front suspension arm is bent, which is going to restrict
>  it's abillity to move.  I know I've got to fix that, but should I replace
>  the whole section or just try to straighten the arm?
>
>  This may be an easy one - if the parts are mega-bucks, I'll straighten the
>  old one.
>
>o Also, the limiter strap bar is broken off (this is the loud snap that I
>  heard last winter) - looks like the weld on one side had been broken for
>  a long time and when the other side went, it didn't come off cleanly.
>  I haven't tried a welding shop yet, but I can probably find someone who
>  will be willing to fix it for me, although around here I won't find anyone who
>  knows snowmobiles who can fix it for me.  So here's my question on thi
>  one - how much stress is placed on the limiter strap?  Can I get by with
>  a shoddy welding job here?  Should I buy the entire assembly from Ski Doo?
>  (assuming of course that it doesn't cost an arm and a leg)

  As I mentioned before, I welded mine again, and again, bought a new one and
ended up welding it too.  It is just a weak point - the front arm takes all
the pounding.

>
>o I'd like to stud the track - what kind of studs can I safely use on this
>  machine without ripping up the heat exchangers?

   You can buy heat exchanger protector slides to allow room for studs.  If
you look up under the frame at the heat exchangers, you will see a nylon
strip running from front to back on each heat exchanger.  These can  be 
replaced by wider stips to allow room for studs, claws, etc.  If you
do this - continuously monitor that heat gage.

>
>o Should the limiter strap be set at the stock setting or loosened up a
>  notch? (there're only two settings - I left it at the stock setup because
>  it's too hard to get at with the suspension inplace)


   The tighter the strap, the less the front end will "pull up" when
you take off,  this strap is intended as a dynamic part of the suspension
that functions when there is significant torque pull on the track.  Thus
the term "Torque Reaction Slide Suspenseion" was given to it.

>
>o The bearings of the upper idler arm wheels seem a little rough - should
>  they be replaced?  They don't seem to be a key component of the drive
>  train, but if they are and don't cost too much I want to replace them.

  Replace them, they are 5 bucks each.  Also check the two at the back,
these suspensions were famous for the rear idler wheel bearing going and
the idler removing itself from the suspension, causing a frustrating 
ride home.

>
>o In the "pearl earrings on a pig" dept., would it do any good to use a
>  gas shock on the suspension, assuming of course that I can get a gas shock
>  to fit it?
>
 
   It may help on the short term but one of the faults in the suspension
design is that there seems to be a "side" pressure on the shock, under
severe trail riding the shock tends to bend.  I put a new one on and 
later had to replace it again because it got bent and leaked.

>And just in general, are there any tricks I can do while I've got it apart

 Not really, it is pretty simple.  The help you will need however is the
proper way to put it back in.  Most suspensions now a days are put in
"loaded".  This one you don't.   You undo the front strap, undo the pin
holding the shock, place the springs on the shafts in the proper location
but not loaded,  i.e. you will put the front arm in, then the back arm in,
then do up the strap, and the pin in the shock.   Then pry the springs up
onto the "blocks" that are used to adjust the ride.  And you are done.

This can be done by yourself.  I have seen It attempted with the springs
loaded and it took about 4 guys and alot of cursing.

>Also, the foam padding on the underside of the hood is all coming off -
>is it worth replacing?

  Naw, rip it out - sounds mean!

>
>Comments/questions/suggestions welcomed.
>
>THINK SNOW!

   I am, I am ...


                    brian.

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