HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: elmar@ocf.berkeley.edu (Elmar Stefke)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: POOR, GOOD, BETTER, AND BEST RESOLE JOBS IN THE U.S.
Date: 17 Dec 1992 00:22:45 GMT
Organization: U.C. Berkeley Open Computing Facility
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: tornado.berkeley.edu
Keywords: You rate your resoles!

Well, it must be that time of the year again.  What time is that you ask?
It's the time to talk about something actually related to climbing vs.
lawsuits (albeit with a climbing slant), Jesus, gifs, avalanche beacons,
or accident statistics (cycling and car).  I'd like to generate a survey
of the quality of resole jobs done by various places throughout the U.S.
This should include some type of service description, quality, turnover,
and price.  Three places with which I've had experiences in one way or
another are:
1.) Rock and Resole (Boulder, CO)-superb, fast, cheap
2.) Marmot (Berkeley, CA)-fair, turnaround okay, mid-priced
3.) Wilson's Eastside (Bishop, CA)-fair/good, turnaround okay, mid-priced
Remember these are opinions only!
Elmar Stefke


Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: ghill@dot.cs.colorado.edu (Gregory Hill)
Subject: Re: 2-way radios
Organization: Universtiy of Coloardo, Boulder
Distribution: usa
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1992 19:48:13 GMT

>The method used since time began is to work out a simple code based
>on tugs on the rope.  1 tug = off belay. 2 tugs = on belay. Etc.  If
>it is a partner you climb with a lot they often have a very
>recognizable pattern of activity when they reach a belay position so
>that you KNOW what is going on just bt the way the rope is behaving.
> This can augument the tug-on-the-rope code.

I have found this system to be somewhat lacking, as for various reasons
(rope drag, lapses in attentiveness) one or both tugs may be unfelt at
the receiving end. My preference is to just tell the second: "If we can't
hear each other, then wait two minutes after all the slack in the rope is
pulled, and then assume that you are on belay." I (if I am the leader) then 
make absolutely sure that I put the second on belay within two minutes of
the time that I have pulled all the slack. This means of course, that I don't
pull the slack until I have the belay setup so that all I have to do is
thread the rope through the belay device.
From: cranch@novell.com (Christopher Ranch)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: RP's?
Date: 17 Dec 92 22:37:54 GMT
Followup-To: rec.climbing
Distribution: na
Organization: Novell Inc., San Jose, Califonia

In article <8942@lee.SEAS.UCLA.EDU> gustave@hougen.seas.ucla.edu (Gustave R. Stroes) writes:
>I have read route descriptions (often for desert climbing) which
>recomend bringing pro refered to as RP's.  As far as I can tell,
>these are the very small brass stoppers that I have seen at REI.
>I must admit that these devices do not look particularly strong.
>Are they capable of arresting leader falls?  

	They make steel one too.  I've taken a good [sic] hard fall of
	about 15' on a #2.  Worked nicely, though I could not get it out
	afterward.

>Or are they intended for aid climbing?  

	They work well in the bottoms of pin scars...

>If you do take a fall on one, is it designed
>to deform, i.e. one "use" only?  Any advice would be appreciated.

	I don't think they're intended to be disposable.  I've worn a few
	out on aid walls, but no where near as fast as copper heads.

>Also, if one were to take along a few pitons to use in case of
>emergency on backcountry bailouts, which type of pitons would be
>the most usefull/versatile?  How many sizes?

	Don't forget the hammer.  I'd bring a few LA's and maybe an angle
	or two.  I've got my back country bottom of the pack kit which
	includes first-aid (kotex and ace bandages, mostly), space blanket,
	candy, hammer, and bolt-kit.  No, I don't want to rekindle the
	European alpine bolting discussion!

>
>Thanks in advance,  Gustave

	Chris

---
Chris Ranch
Internetworking Products Division
Novell, Inc.  San Jose, CA
(408)473-8667  cranch@novell.com
I may work for Novell, but I don't speak for them...
From: hostetlr@bucknell.edu (Jim Hostetler)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Food for Thought
Followup-To: rec.climbing
Date: 17 Dec 1992 14:09:27 GMT
Organization: Bucknell University
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: macl52.bucknell.edu

What's the name of the guy in Colorado that will de-hydrate virtually
anything. It's Uncle somebody or another. He has great expedition food. I'd
appreciate getting a  phone number and address.

Thanks in advance.

Jim Hostetler 
HOSTETLR@bucknell.edu
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: reinhart@stsci.edu
Subject: Re: Climbing gym in DC?
Organization: Space Telescope Science Institute
Distribution: usa,na
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 16:52:25 GMT

In article <1992Dec14.014736.16182@galileo.cc.rochester.edu>, esot@troi.cc.rochester.edu (Eric Sotnak) writes:
> 
>   The subject line says it all.  Are there any climbing gyms in Washington
> DC?  If so, where are they?
> 
There is a climbing gym in Rockville (just north of DC up I-270).  I'm not sure
exactly where in Rockville it is as I've never been to that facility (and I
just discovered that my phone number for it is at home).

There is also a climbing gym in Baltimore.  This one is in the Clipper Mill
Industrial Park close to the exact center of the city right off of I-83 (and
again, my phone number for the gym is at home).

I'll post the numbers for these two facilities tomorrow.  

Merle Reinhart
Space Telescope Science Institute
Baltimore, Maryland

reinhart@stsci.edu

Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: gnray@world.std.com (Garry N Ray)
Subject: Re: Lawsuits...
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 19:25:27 GMT

I thought I had been following developments on this thread, but this
recent series of posts makes absolutely no sense. What mock trial? Who's
choosing whom? Why the insults? Does Eugene actually climb? And who in the
heck is holier-than-thou (aside from the obvious candidate(s)).

If you fellows intend to go cryptic, I'd suggest you do so privately.
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: krajnatg@infonode.ingr.com (Tom G. Krajna)
Subject: Re: helmets
Organization: Intergraph Corporation, Huntsville, AL.
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 03:17:25 GMT

marlatt@spot.Colorado.EDU (Stuart W. Marlatt) writes:

>The effect of slots is greater than just allowing small stones to
>get through. They may also catch, to some degree, a larger
>object striking a glancing blow, thus transfering more force to
>the wearer than would a similar, smooth helmet. That was the

So for pure stone-deflecting ability the ideal would be a Conehead helmet.
Hey, the Conehead family was from France, right -- they probably climb. :-)

--Tom K.
Newsgroups: rec.climbing,rec.skiing,rec.backcountry
From: SCHENKER@ezzeus (Benedikt Schenker)
Subject: Re: Has anyone ever saved anyone wearing an avalanche beacon?
Organization: Chem.Eng.Dept. ETH ZURICH, RCG, Restless Climbing Group
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 09:56:07 GMT
X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.24


Hi!

Wayne writes:

>Does anyone know the percentages of beacon-wearing vs non-beacon-wearing
>avalanche survivors? 


Well, the chance to be saved after being totally covered by an avalanche are
1/3 if you are rescued by the colleagues.
The chance of survival drops to 1/10 if you have to wait for an SAR group.

Because it is virtually impossible to rescue somebody who is totally
covered by an avalanche without using a beacon, I think this gives
an answer to Waynes question.

But rather try to avoid to get in an avalanche then to hope for the
1/3. If you are unlucky, I think you'll prefer the 1/3 compared to the
1/10.

Be careful and have fun skiing.

********************************************************************************
Benedikt Schenker
Technical-Chemical Lab
ETH Zurich

schenker@ezzeus.vmsmail.ethz.ch


Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: dmanke@sanjuan (Dennis Manke)
Subject: Re: Info of Joe Simpson
Organization: University of Victoria, Victoria B.C. CANADA
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 92 23:45:11 GMT

In article <BzBC4n.1Fw@da_vinci.it.uswc.uswest.com> rayman@lookout.it.uswc.uswest.com (Raymond Goure) writes:
>
>I just finished the "Touching the Void" by Joe Simpson detailing his 
>and Simon Yates climb of Siula Grande. I was wondering if anyone
>has information as to the injuries (specific) suffered by 
>simpson. the book leaves it as a broken leg that needed 10
>operations. Any info regarding this climber would be greatly
>appriciated.
>
>thanks.
>
>by-the-way I recommend the book.

I seem to recall that it was 6 operations, but am probably wrong since this is
not the only serious accident he's been in. Maybe the other 4 were to fix the
damage done by the Surgeons down there. He was on tour about a year ago
and gives a great presentation. If you can catch one of these, I highly
recommend it.

The knee was hyperextended to the point where everything shattered.
When I attended his slide show, he mentioned that every so often the Surgeons
in the UK have a new technique to experiment with, on him (it all adds up).

Dennis,  dmanke@sanjuan.uvic.ca

Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: bruceg@Cadence.COM (Bruce Gustifson)
Subject: Re: 2-way radios
Organization: Cadence Design Systems, Inc.
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 23:30:09 GMT

In article <1gbdfbINNo7s@morrow.stanford.edu> AS.MSW@forsythe.stanford.edu (Marc Whitney) writes:
>In article <1992Dec11.222852.6610@news.mentorg.com>,
>janem@janem.mentorg.com (Jane Merrow) writes:
>>
>>--
>>
>>After a couple of situations where noise of wind or water
>>and the outcroppings along a route have made communication
>>between climber and belayer practically impossible, I noticed
>>a headset 2-way radio in an REI catalog and thought, "Well,
>>maybe...".
>>
>>Has anyone tried such a technological solution?  (It does seem
>>somewhat excessive, doesn't it?)  Does anyone have any non-
>>technological solutions to letting someone know when to up-rope,
>>let out slack, watch me, etc. when you can't see or hear them?
>>
>The method used since time began is to work out a simple code based
>on tugs on the rope.  1 tug = off belay. 2 tugs = on belay. Etc.  If
>it is a partner you climb with a lot they often have a very
>recognizable pattern of activity when they reach a belay position so
>that you KNOW what is going on just bt the way the rope is behaving.
> This can augument the tug-on-the-rope code.


   1 tug on the rope means off belay? Jesus, that sounds to me
  like suicide! What if you have to get the rope out of a 
  crack where your belayer can't see you and tug on the rope
  once. Halfway up a pitch your belayer takes you off belay!
			   -Bruce-
Newsgroups: rec.climbing,rec.backcountry
From: stgprao@st.unocal.COM (Richard Ottolini)
Subject: Re: Tibet
Organization: Unocal Corporation
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 15:24:07 GMT

In article <Bz9qn5.LGK@acsu.buffalo.edu> bowen@acsu.buffalo.edu (Devon E Bowen) writes:
>I have acquired a sudden interest in going to Tibet this Spring (around
>April) and I was interested in talking to someone that has been through
>the process. I've been told that one needs an "invitation" from a
>travel agency to do this but my main interest is just going in to hike
>and camp in the mountains for a month or so. Is there any way I can do
>this? What do I have to go through? Any replies would be greatly
>appreciated.

Try posting this on soc.culture.china to find people who have been there
as tourists recently.  Be prepared for flames, because some people there
don't like Tibet.
The "standard policy" is to sign up in an expensive tour group- partly due
the lack of tourist facilities and partly due the authorities didn't want
foreigners interacting with the natives.  In the late 1980s this policy
loosened up and self-travel was possible.  I knew several people who hitched
rides on trucks or buses from Chengdu.  There is a book by Vikram Seth about
how he did this.  There was some nationalist protesting just before and during
the Tiananmen incident in 1989 and travel was suspended, but I've heard at least
the group stuff has started again.  I know several people who went there
to conduct scientific studies the past two summers.
From: nicolas@stam.nl (Nico Veenkamp)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: World Champs, Birmingham (UK)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 92 17:38:05 CET
Organization: Stam Tijdschriften bv, Rijswijk, The Netherlands

L.Dekker@cs.ucl.ac.uk writes:

> I went on Saturday to see the women's quarter finals, men's
> quarter finals and the women's semi finals.  What a brilliant
> day out!  Nice climbing, shame about the commentary...  
> Just who  w a s  that Moffatt bloke, anyway?!
> 
Moffat (forget his first name) is/was one of Britains best 
sportsclimbers. he has won many competitions


      *================================================================*
      |  Nico Veenkamp	        | You write, we publish                |
      |  Stam Tijdschriften bv  | -------------------------------------|
      |  P.O. Box 235           | Internet : nicolas@stam.nl           |
      |  2280 AE  Rijswijk      | FidoNet  : 2:281/1.7                 |
      |  The Netherlands        | BIX      : nicolas                   |
      *================================================================*
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: mtvahb@rivm.nl (Aldrik Bakema)
Subject: Re: Info of Joe Simpson
Organization: Rijksinstituut voor Volksgezondheid en Milieuhygiene,Bilthoven,NL
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8]
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 13:22:47 GMT

Raymond Goure (rayman@lookout.it.uswc.uswest.com) wrote:

: I just finished the "Touching the Void" by Joe Simpson detailing his 
: and Simon Yates climb of Siula Grande. I was wondering if anyone
: has information as to the injuries (specific) suffered by 
: simpson. the book leaves it as a broken leg that needed 10
: operations. Any info regarding this climber would be greatly
: appriciated.

: thanks.

: by-the-way I recommend the book.

Well, I just read yesterday in a magazine that he published another book.
Not so dramatic, but since you ask for any information ...
I regret I forgot the title, but it's about two guys doing a trek somewhere
as I gathered from the magazine. It ' s fiction, by the way, no autobiography.
Last thing I remember is that he is now preparing his third book.
If you 're interested I can look up the title of his second book.

Aldrik Bakema

Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: trzyna@CS.ColoState.EDU (wayne trzyna)
Subject: Re: help on placing pro on bolts
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 17:28:45 GMT
Organization: Colorado State University, Computer Science Department

In article <1992Dec12.135624.9355@iscsvax.uni.edu> jacobson5821@iscsvax.uni.edu writes:
>When you clip a bolt how exactly do you do it safely so your rope can't work
>its way out?  What I mean is do you place the biner that is connected to the
>bolt gate up and out or down and out, and how 'bout the biner connected to the
>rope.  Thanks in advance, Paul
> 

Conventional wisdom is down and out.  However, I think this is largely
a carry-over from the direct-aid days of yore.  Having the biner face
down and out makes it easy to clip and unclip a rats-nest of ropes,
slings, and other biners.

-- 

-Wayne Trzyna
 trzyna@CS.ColoState.EDU
From: wildberg@nestroy.wu-wien.ac.at (Andreas Wildberger)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Hueco Tanks or Organ Mountains in April 93 ?! Second Try.
Date: 18 Dec 1992 12:50:29 GMT
Organization: University of Economics and Business Administration, Vienna, Austria
NNTP-Posting-Host: iirlibray.wu-wien.ac.at

Sorry for posting this message again, but there was a problem with my e-mail 
address appearing in the article header - Pleas write answers to

wildberg@nestroy.wu-wien.ac.at!      Thanks		




Original message:

In spring Ill spend some time in Texas, and Id like to do some climbing 
during the first three weeks of April. Since Im Austrian and climbing in 
the US is really new for me, Id appreciate if I could get some addresses or 
phone numbers of people being around Hueco Tanks or the Organ Mountains who 
could show me around a little bit (perhaps do some climbing with me [max. V- 
on the uiaa-scale]), or just give me a few hints. I already have some 
general information about these climbing areas, but Id be glad about any 
details.

Thank you very much for answers,

Andy

P.S. Could you please give me a brief overview about the prices of basic 
climbing equipment in the US - I hope it will also be worth buying stuff 
there...  Thanks again.
From: AS.MSW@forsythe.stanford.edu (Marc Whitney)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: 2-way radios
Date: 11 Dec 1992 16:58:19 -0800
Organization: Stanford University
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: morrow.stanford.edu

In article <1992Dec11.222852.6610@news.mentorg.com>,
janem@janem.mentorg.com (Jane Merrow) writes:
>
>--
>
>After a couple of situations where noise of wind or water
>and the outcroppings along a route have made communication
>between climber and belayer practically impossible, I noticed
>a headset 2-way radio in an REI catalog and thought, "Well,
>maybe...".
>
>Has anyone tried such a technological solution?  (It does seem
>somewhat excessive, doesn't it?)  Does anyone have any non-
>technological solutions to letting someone know when to up-rope,
>let out slack, watch me, etc. when you can't see or hear them?
>
The method used since time began is to work out a simple code based
on tugs on the rope.  1 tug = off belay. 2 tugs = on belay. Etc.  If
it is a partner you climb with a lot they often have a very
recognizable pattern of activity when they reach a belay position so
that you KNOW what is going on just bt the way the rope is behaving.
 This can augument the tug-on-the-rope code.
From: bowen@cs.Buffalo.EDU (Devon E Bowen)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: jesus loves you
Date: 11 Dec 92 19:41:46 GMT
Organization: State University of New York at Buffalo/Comp Sci
Originator: bowen@mira.cs.buffalo.edu


In article <Dec02.193030.17840@yuma.ACNS.ColoState.EDU>, trzyna@CS.ColoState.EDU (wayne trzyna) writes:
> Similarly, demons and sinister forces dwell beneith the surface of the
> earth (where cavers roam).

So that's what that was!

Devon
From: ian@watusi.seas.upenn.edu (Ian M Glazer)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: Where to live if you love to climb (Reposted)
Date: 15 Dec 92 18:10:27 GMT
Organization: University of Pennsylvania

Having never done xtensive climbing out west I can only vouch for the east coast.  I must say that living in North Conway, NH would be pretty good.  Of course if you are looking for excitemnet and nightlife, North Conway is not the place to be. But the climbing is great and plentiful, not to mention the amount hiking and skiing.

*********************************************************
Ian Glazer	ian@eniac.seas.upenn.edu		*
"Sometimes there is strength and sometimes weakness;	*
Sometimes one is up and sometimes one is down." Lao Tzu	*
*********************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: newbeb@bray1b.its.rpi.edu (Brian Samuel Newberry)
Subject: Need Advice
Reply-To: newbeb@rpi.edu
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY.
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1992 03:49:00 GMT

 I am looking into climbing harnesses and would like some advice. I have seen a
Black Diamond Bod in a local store for $50, and have been seriously considering
buying it. Any comments as to its performance, comfortability, safety, ect.?
E-mail me if you have any comments. Thanks!

				Brian Newberry
From: cbrown@islesboro.East.Sun.COM (Chris Brown - SunSelect Operations)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: Devils Tower
Date: 18 Dec 1992 15:51:30 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems Inc. - BDC
Distribution: world
Reply-To: cbrown@islesboro.East.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: islesboro.east.sun.com


I remember lots of ledges on the Durrance, but since this route is on the warn and sunny East face, I don't remember ANY of them being very cool. In fact, I've got a photo of my partner cowering behind a piece of broken-off pillar above the Tower Crack pitch. He was trying to get out of the noonday sun and find some shade. Maybe we should have stayed in the Tetons that August weekend!

Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: dougg@kentek.com (Doug Gerecht 806 1031)
Subject: Re: Devils Tower
Date: 16 Dec 92 09:33:53
Organization: Kentek Information Systems

> Can anyone tell me about personal experiences climbing at Devil's
> Tower.  I would like to take a trip out there next summer and climb
> the 5.6 route.  It will be my first multi-pitch climb.  I heard that
> there are fixed pitons on the route, is this true?  Thanks, Paul

I've never climbed the Durance (sp?) route.  Many of the routes on the
tower have bolts at belay stances since there really are FEW ledges.
When I was there last July I talked to a party on the summit that had
just finished Durance.  They said they got in line at about 5 or
5:30am and waited about 3 hours before they could start climbing.

In other words, if you can lead a 5.7 or greater choose one of those
routes as they are MUCH less crowded.  Also, don't forget that pretty
much all the routes down require double rope rappels.  We had to help
another party off that "kinda forgot" about that and only had 1 rope.

There is two guide books that I know of for Devil's tower.  They'll
show you where the bolts are.  If you can't find them locally try
calling the visitor center up at the tower.
-- 
          __  /    __  /    /   /    ___/	     Doug Gerecht
         /   /    /   /    /   /    /
        /   /    /   /    /   /    / - /	     dougg@kentek.com
      _____/   _____/   _____/   _____/
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: kiwi@athena.mit.edu (James Melhuish)
Subject: Info Wanted on Climbing in Mexico
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Distribution: rec.climbing
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1992 03:26:08 GMT

I am heading down to Mexico in January.  We will be hiking in the National
Park of Barranca del Cobre.  Does anyone know of any rock climbing in this
park?  I don't know if there is good rock, or routes already put up, or new
routes to be done.  I don't know whether I should bring my rock gear or
not.

Anyone have any information on climbing here?  Post to rec.climbing or
email me directly.   Thanks,


James Melhuish		kiwi@athena.mit.edu