From: eugene@wilbur.nas.nasa.gov (Eugene N. Miya)
Subject: Re: learning to lead
Organization: NAS, NASA Ames Research Center, Moffett Field, CA
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 92 01:44:40 GMT
Distribution: usa

>>In article <1992Nov10.111530.13912@watson.ibm.com>, eru@watson.ibm.com
(Erich Ruetsche) writes:
>>> Climbing is first of all fun !! So learning to lead should be done in an
>>> area where leading can be doen without any fear. That means good holds and
>>> good anchors == BOLTS.
In article <1dov62INNf4a@morrow.stanford.edu>
AS.MSW@forsythe.stanford.edu (Marc Whitney) writes:
>I hope everyone realized that good anchors do NOT neccessarily equal bolts.
>I suggest beginning leaders avoid bolts for a while to they don't
>get dangerously seduced by their appearent (but often false) security.

While I agree with the ultimate sentiment that climbing should be fun,
I would distrust any beginning leader who doesn't have fear.  That person
is a fool, and I have had the misfortune to attend several funerals of
people who thought they were invincible.  On peaks as simple at Mt. Shasta
and the local mountains (the Sierra).  I side with Marc on this one
on avoiding bolts.  For you see, not one single poster noted the single
most important skill you have to learn when you lead.  It is the essence of
leading and that's route finding.

	It's one thing to follow a line of bolts and/or patches of white.

	It's another thing to follow a crack and place pro.

	It's still a third thing to find that "improbable traverse" mentioned	
	in a guide book.

	Only a leader knows what it means to back off (and how).
	Only a leader can think, "Hum, above my head,
	time to transition to aid (clean, say)."
	Maybe to leave gear temporarily or permanently.
	Leaders know fear.  Those waiting to die, don't.
	They really don't teach you to back off in the middle of a pitch
	in books or classes.  It's just something you have to figure out for
	yourself.  You misinterpret features, you do the 175 ft. pitch on a
	165 ft. rope, all kinds of fun stuff.  It's not your typical fear
	either.

	It's a different thing than doing a first ascent (and this is where
	the essence begins to take off).  When you don't know where you are
	going.  Except up.  (actually when you get better you realize
	you occasionally do traversing and down climbing to get up, but that's
	a later experience.)
It's only 5.8, but you got this 30 lbs pack on (why?  because your second
is hauling 60 lbs.), you got this stupid heavy rack and you reach a point
where you have to transition to aid climbing.  Or better yet crampons
(don't drop them).

You see climbers have a special eye.  Salathe apparently is one with an
essence.  He could figure out lines without having climbed them.
If you are learning to lead, the single worse thing you can do is just
start up.  Instead you take a long hard look from as far back as you
can, and try to figure out where you are going to go.  Makes for
smother more aesthetic climbing as well.  That decision making
is part of the essence of climbing.  Non-climbers don't have this eye.
Ah! but you don't have to listen to me.  8^)

>with no fixed pro since her longer tern interests involve alpinism
>where fixed equipment is rare to non-existant.

Other good stuff removed to shorten post.
Enough conferences and meetings, time to go stand on small non-existent holds.

--eugene miya, NASA Ames Research Center, eugene@orville.nas.nasa.gov
  Associate Editor, Software and Publication Reviews
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