HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: charlesv@aupair.cs.athabascau.ca (Charles Van Duren)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Safety in my home (was: Killing Burglars)
Date: 2 Oct 92 14:34:03 GMT

byron@homer.hsc.ucalgary.ca (Byron Draudson) writes:

#In article <1992Sep18.180533.28603@adobe.com>, dauphin@adobe.com (Kimberly Dauphin) writes:
#> Charles van Duren writes:
#> 
#> >I'm not sorry if I offended people here. When I think of my home, I
#> >consider it to be the _last_ place where I need to be paranoid about
#> >my physical safety. And I am _not_ deluding myself into thinking that
#> >I am safe when I am not.
#> 
#> Either Alberta is a paradise of safety, or you're living in a 
#> dream.
#> -- 
#Well, Alberta is NOT a paradise of safety.  About a week ago, a
#40 year old doctor/husband/father of four was fatally stabbed as
#he struggled with a 21 year old burglar at 4 am in his mid-upper
#class home near the university.  Makes you _really_ wonder just
#how safe you are in your own home...

If the above constituted a logical argument, I guess I must be living
in a dream.

But let's not generalize here.

He went after the burglar. In fact tried to prevent him from leaving the house.
Just about any advice on finding an intruder in your house will tell you
not to do something like that.

I _still_ won't rush out to buy heavy armament for personal protection.
Besides, I have attack cats to bite intruders' ankles :-)

CvD
*----------------------------------------------------------------------------*
| Charles van Duren - Senior Systems Analyst - Center for Distance Education |  
|      Athabasca University, Athabasca, Alberta, Canada T0G 0B0              |
*-------------------------------------\/-------------------------------------*
|      Now Tom he claims, that a man's true joy,                             |
|      Is in the work he likes to do,                                        |
|      And if I understand, Tom's a right joyous man,                        |
|      And Tom, he's looking at you ...       Tom Blasingame (Ian Tyson)     |
*-------------------------------------/\-------------------------------------*
From: todd@reed.edu (Todd Ellner)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: California Yurts
Date: 4 Oct 92 01:14:06 GMT
Article-I.D.: reed.1992Oct4.011406.5950
Distribution: na
Organization: Reed College, Portland OR

While traveling up highway 101 my wife and I saw an outfit called
California Yurts. We walked around their (huge) workshop and looked
at their model houses. Just a couple of days ago they sent us a 
brochure. They ship kits or will do the job themselves. Has anyone
had experience with this outfit? Is there anything similar in the 
Northwest?

-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Todd Ellner  todd@reed.edu 
"What has the study of biology taught you about the Creator Dr. Haldane?"
JBS Haldane:"I'm not sure, but He seems to be inordinately fond of beetles."
From: ben@yenta.alb.nm.us (Ben Klausner)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re-seal double pane windows?
Keywords: window glass seal house home repair
Date: 28 Sep 92 16:23:08 GMT
Organization: Department of Redundancy Department

I recently noticed that one of the windows in my house has developed dome
moisture between the double panes of glass. I called the local glass shops
to try and get the window re-sealed, but no one seems to do that. They all
want to sell me a new window pane.

Is there any practical way to repair, re-use, or re-seal the existing window
pane? Thanks.

-- 
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
  inet: ben@yenta.alb.nm.us                    | My opinions are my own.
  CI$:  76337,1730                             | Who else would want them?
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
From: johnp@hpgrla.gr.hp.com (John Parsons)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Home security tips from a burglar
Date: 25 Sep 92 19:51:47 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Greeley, CO

> .... Paid for itself in the first year, as well.

But how about the 2nd year?  I bought two of the "intelligent"
models less than two years ago (with the "manual override"
feature).  One began to "stick" on after detecting motion -
it stayed on forever until it was manually reset (is this what
they really mean by manual override?).  So I said "phooey" and
replaced it with a cheap no-frills model.  This one just died
when one of the floodlamps burned out.  And now the second
"intelligent" detector has developed the same symptoms as the
first one.  They ought to socket-mount these things, so far I've
gone through one light bulb and three detectors...  :-(

John Parsons
johnp@gr.hp.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: pzs3761@tamaix.tamu.edu (Pete Sierant)
Subject: Noisy A/C
Organization: chaotic to the abstract
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 04:27:32 GMT

    I have a problem with noise coming from the furnace and A/C blower.
They are contained in a small "room" just off the living room. The door
is thin and flimsy with vents in it. The air intake is just below the 
door. So far, it seems that I could:
a) turn up the TV when it kicks on
b) cut a ventilation hole in the ceiling and replace the door with a 
   solid one.
c) move the whole assembly up into the attic, which is where most houses
   around here have it anyway.
This being Texas and me being a Yanqui, I WILL have A/C. And lots of it.
So of course, c) is both preferable and the most expensive. The furnace
and A/C are made by Johnson (I never heard of it, but it works great.)
Any comments or suggestions?
-- Pete              -=[ pzs3761@tamaix.tamu.edu ]=-
                 "Sometimes, a cigar is just a cigar"
                                                   -Sigmund Freud

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Re-seal double pane windows?
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 92 19:56:01 GMT
Keywords: window glass seal house home repair

In article <1992Sep28.162308.7000@yenta.alb.nm.us> ben@yenta.alb.nm.us (Ben Klausner) writes:
>I recently noticed that one of the windows in my house has developed dome
>moisture between the double panes of glass. I called the local glass shops
>to try and get the window re-sealed, but no one seems to do that. They all
>want to sell me a new window pane.
>
>Is there any practical way to repair, re-use, or re-seal the existing window
>pane? Thanks.

I have always heard that these are factory sealed units. So - call the
factory.

patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | If you maintain your motorcycle yourself,
                    | eventually you will have two of them.
                    |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: gchin@ssf.Eng.Sun.COM (Gary Chin)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Recessed ceiling lights project complete!
Date: 5 Oct 92 18:13:17 GMT
Article-I.D.: appserv.ld11dtINN64a
Reply-To: gchin@ssf.Eng.Sun.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems
NNTP-Posting-Host: ssf

We just had tiny halogen track lights installed in our living room.

They are very nice and very flexible for our changeable lighting
needs.

Gary
From: frank@marvin.contex.com (Frank Perdicaro)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Cleaning Oriental Rugs
Date: 5 Oct 92 14:07:05 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Xyvision Design Systems

How to clean an oriental?

Look in the phone book for a professional carpet cleaner.  The one I
use ( Albrite in Lawrence ) has a very large table with what appears 
to be about 60 shower heads mounted on a sprayer bar above it. 
There is an infeed roller and a take up roller.  They make as many
passes as needed to make it clean.

Looks like somebody else's carpet when I get it back.  Costs about
$60 for a ~10x12 rug.   Pick up and delivery is expensive.

-- 
	 Frank E Perdicaro, Systems Admin, etc.		Xyvision Color Systems
      Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.		101 Edgewater Drive
   inhouse: frank@marvin, x5572				Wakefield MA
outhouse: frank@contex.com, 617-245-4100x5572		018801285
From: foley@meteor.wisc.edu (Jonathan Foley)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: SUMMARY: siding options
Date: 30 Sep 92 14:46:24 GMT
Reply-To: foley@meteor.wisc.edu
Organization: Center for Climatic Research, Univ. Wisconsin

First, let me thank all those who have responded to the question
I brought up about siding my old house.  My wife and I have a 110
year old Victorian house (3 story) that does not seem to hold paint
very well.  It has been 8 years since it was painted last, and the
paint has been peeling for about 4 years already.  Right now it
looks pretty bad.  We just got the house.

Okay, now for the responses.

Most everyone who responded said that they would not side the house
with vinyl or aluminum siding.  Some said it would be a real crime 
to do that to such an old house.  Others said it might be okay as
a last resort.  

So, we are left with two options:  reside the house with wood, or just
do a better paint job. 

Most everyone who suggested putting up new wood also said that it would
peel just as much as what I have now and that it would be very expensive.

Repainting:  most everyone suggested this.  Alot of folks mentioned putting
in a vapor barrier paint on the interior (esp. near bathrooms and the like),
and reworking the surface.  There seemed to be a strong impression that there
are paints that will work on this house - I just have to find them.


Thanks to all of you who have participated in this discussion!  I hope that
it continues!  

One final question....What if I am sick of peeling paint and I want to STAIN
(with an opaque stain) the clapboards instead?  Stain doesn't peel and it
(to my understanding) protects the wood pretty well too.  Any comments or
suggestions?

Thanks again!  Cheers, Jon

----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Jon Foley                                    | email:  foley@meteor.wisc.edu |
Center for Climatic Research and              -------------------------------  
Department of Atmospheric & Oceanic Sciences                                 |
University of Wisconsin               ---------------------------------------
1225 West Dayton Street              | These views are my own and do reflect |
Madison, WI  53706 - United States   | those of the University of Wisconsin  |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: pattisan@midiline.la.ca.us (Patti Hayes)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Taking off old plaster
Date: Fri, 02 Oct 92 14:40:15 PDT
Organization: MIDILine BBS - Altadena, CA - (818) 797-3285

un026217@wvnvms.wvnet.edu writes:

> Hi,
> 
> Any tips on how to take off old plaster?
> 
> 
> Thanks, Bo
 Cleaner, faster,less hassle......wallboard! Watch for a sale and you can
do one wall (depending on the size of the room of course) for $6.00.
From: rrw@elden (Robert Wier)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Electric Drill Recommendation
Date: 6 Oct 92 05:24:08 GMT
Distribution: na
Originator: rrw@elden.cse.nau.edu

From article <1992Oct1.181733.12536@donner.SanDiego.NCR.COM>, by davel@booboo.SanDiego.NCR.COM (David Lord):
> In article <1992Oct1.005135.5910@Armstrong.EDU> frazier@Armstrong.EDU (Doug Frazier) writes:
>>I want to buy a really good, durable 3/8" VSR drill for general homeowner
>>use.  Can anyone recommend models and good mail-order sources?  Many thanks.
> 
> I really like the DeWalt model that sell for about $60 at Home Depot,
> it is like a very sturdy, powerful drill. It is supposedly designed
> for "professional" use. The same drill is sold
> under several other brand names including Craftsman, Cyclone, and
> Black & Decker Professional. I like the DeWalt version because of its cool
> yellow housing but mine is actually a Craftsman (it was a gift).
> 
> It is American made.

  Fortune magazine a few months ago had an article on DeWalt.  Turns out that
  Black & Decker perceived that they had a problem with people pegging their
  tools as being for the "hobbyist" rather than the "professional", which
  was hurting sales.  I *believe* (I'm quoting from memory now) that B&D
  bought the DeWalt name in order to introduce their upscale tool line.

  Don't flame me - I'm not saying DeWalt isn't good - I've never owned
  any of their tools.

  This is kind of like Disney's owning Touchstone Pictures.  They wanted
  to be able to produce/distribute mature ('R') films but didn't want to
  damage the family image of the Disney name.  I believe it was a pretty
  well kept secret until Ron Howard's "Splash" with a somewhat bare Darryl
  Hannah....

 - Bob Wier

  ---------- insert favorite standard disclaimers here ----------
                   College of Engineering
      Northern Arizona University, Flagstaff Arizona
  Internet: rrw@naucse.cse.nau.edu | BITNET: WIER@NAUVAX | WB5KXH
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: nathan@laplace.biology.yale.edu (Nathan F. Janette)
Subject: Re: fixing HW floor
Reply-To: nathan@laplace.biology.yale.edu
Organization: Yale University, Department of Computer Science, New Haven, CT
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 21:49:02 GMT

A related question...

I just removed the wall-to-wall carpet from two rooms,
which involved prying the tack strip up with a hammer and
tack pulling tool.  The floor had been refinished right
before the carpet was installed, and the effect has been
to cause chucks of finish and wood to be pulled up with the
nails I've removed.  The size of the chucks varies from
about a dime to a quarter.  Not only is this ugly looking, but
the wood below isn't protected.

What should I do?  Since some wood was pulled up, I need to
fill the areas with something before I dab varnish on...? 

--
Nathan Janette		"I'm a NeXTstep man,
Dept MB&B, Yale Univ	 I'm a NeXTcube guy"
New Haven, CT
nathan@laplace.biology.yale.edu (NeXT)
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Taking off old plaster
Date: 1 Oct 92 15:57:13 GMT
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ

In article <1992Sep30.145105.3686@wvnvms.wvnet.edu> un026217@wvnvms.wvnet.edu writes:

>Any tips on how to take off old plaster?

I've found that a 32 ounce ball peen hammer works real well.

patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | Of course truth is stranger than fiction; after
                    | all, good fiction must make sense.
                    |                        Samuel Clemens
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: doshay@ursa.arc.nasa.gov (David Doshay)
Subject: Re: SUMMARY: siding options (stain)
Organization: NASA-Ames Biocomputation Center
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 16:43:00 GMT

In article <1992Sep30.153108.14913@porthos.cc.bellcore.com>, patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie) writes:
          ...
|> 
|> Before you apply a stain, you'll have to remove all the paint. Peeling
|> or not, I think you'll have difficulty getting it all.

I would say almost impossible

|> 
|> My only experience has been to stain modern panel type siding (the 4x8
|> panels that imitate vertical lapped boards). It looked very nice and
|> held up well with no recoats.
|> 

We put stain on our new redwood siding, and after 1 1/2 years it needs
another coat. It is my understanding that at first it needs recoating
in about 1 year, and then it should need it again about every 5. Stain
is a higher maintenance item than paint. It just depends on whether you
find looking at the wood worth it. I have not yet decided.

David		doshay@soma.arc.nasa.gov

The thought police insist I tell you:
my thoughts, not NASA's
From: egreen@east.sun.com (Ed Green - Pixel Cruncher)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Tree Climbing
Date: 6 Oct 1992 12:30:15 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, RTP, NC
Distribution: world
Reply-To: egreen@east.sun.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: laser.east.sun.com

Where can I get those spikes you strap on your boots, to climb
telephone poles and pine trees?  Is there a mail-order supply for
lumberjack type stuff?  I haven't been able to find anything local, but
if somebody can point me to a place in the Raleigh/Durham area, I'd
appreciate it.

I have a very tall, very dead, pine, very close to my house.  I've had
one estimate for $250 to take it down, PLUS $100 to haul it off!

I can rent a bucket/crane/extender thing for ~$100, the problem being
I'm not sure I can get it close enough, through all the other trees.
My current plan is to simply climb it, and take it down in ~10 ft.
sections, from the top down (yes, I've done it before, but in a cedar
that had limbs I could crawl up/down;  this one is a telephone pole for
the first 25 ft.).

---
Ed Green, former Ninjaite |I was drinking last night with a biker,
  Ed.Green@East.Sun.COM   |and I showed him a picture of you.  I said,
DoD #0111  (919)460-8302  |"Go on, get to know her, you'll like her!"
 (The Grateful Dead) -->  |It seemed like the least I could do...

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,uiuc.general
From: sch@unx.sas.com (Steve Holzworth)
Subject: Re: This Old House
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 21:06:32 GMT
Organization: SAS Institute Inc.

brokaw@flamingo.weeg.uiowa.edu (Pete Brokaw) writes:

>In article <BvI5Av.Mrx@news.cso.uiuc.edu>, tmkk@uiuc.edu (Khan) writes:
>|> Speaking of This Old House, when is the new season going to start?

stuff deleted

>1858, but 1958).  I wonder if they'll ever show the final results of the 
>flat in London from the end of last season.

Steve Thomas was at a local home and garden show a week ago. He said
they WILL be following up on the London flat (from hell).

>Pete
>-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>                  "The secret to a long life's knowing when it's time to go."
>							pete-brokaw@uiowa.edu
>							weeg computing center
>							   university of iowa
>							  iowa city, ia 52242
>							       (319) 335-5453
--
Steve Holzworth
sch@unx.sas.com
x6872
SAS Institute - Open Systems R & D
Cary, N.C.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: prange@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Henry Prange)
Subject: Re: Chipper/Shreader recommendations sought
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 15:28:42 GMT

Some other Sears stuff may be junk but this one has worked for me.
From: tln@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (teresa.l.green)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Loose Laid Vinyl Flooring - O.K.?
Date: 28 Sep 92 13:33:28 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T

Hello -
	Has anyone heard of or used a product called Mannington Gold?
This particular brand of vinyl flooring is apparently loose laid, no
glue, just stapled at the edges.  The salesman said it was very 
important to lay the vinyl out and staple it immediately, as it starts
to shrink.  I plan to put this down in a bathroom and I am concerned
about its durability.  I would appreciate comments and advice concerning 
this type of vinyl flooring.
				Thanks,
					Teresa
					teresa@ihlpm.ATT.COM
From: frank@marvin.contex.com (Frank Perdicaro)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: IN-LINE WATER HEATERS
Date: 29 Sep 92 21:16:18 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Xyvision Design Systems

In article <1992Sep29.191330.10688@terminator.cc.umich.edu> vln@icpsr.umich.edu (Victoria Neff) writes:
>
>I've used in-line water heaters when showering abroad, and I wouldn't 
>trade my tank for a truck load of the things.  Sure, you get unlimited
>hot water -- as long as you only use a trickle of it.  Otherwise, you
>get alternately boiled and frozen.  Not my idea of a good shower.

I have put off my comments for a long time.

I love my in line heater.  I have a Weil Mclain steam heat boiler with
a 3/4" pipe internal hot water coil.  Always works great, I have HOT
water and never any doubt about running out.  

I suspect that the type of furnace has a great deal to do with it.
Its a medium sized, good quality unit for steam heat.  Thus, when the
fire comes on, there is a big flame.  The steam boiler nature of it
means I have a large thermal mass to smooth out discontinuities in
water temp.

I would never want a tank type again.
-- 
	 Frank E Perdicaro, Systems Admin, etc.		Xyvision Color Systems
      Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.		101 Edgewater Drive
   inhouse: frank@marvin, x5572				Wakefield MA
outhouse: frank@contex.com, 617-245-4100x5572		018801285
Xref: sparky misc.consumers.house:13028 misc.invest.real-estate:760
From: asylvain@felix.filenet.com (The Chipmunk)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,misc.invest.real-estate
Subject: Re: reducing the agents fees
Date: 1 Oct 92 19:24:30 GMT
Reply-To: asylvain@fritz.filenet.com (The Chipmunk)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Foundation for the Increased Wealth of Chipmunks

Written in article <xn-p8z=@lynx.unm.edu>
 by pkrause@triton.unm.edu (Paul Krause CIRT):

: In article <1992Sep30.122528.11170@ncrcae.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM> 
:    shawn@grok90.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM (Shawn Shealy) writes:
:> I have heard that sometimes the real estate agents involved in the
:> sale/purchase of a house are willing to accept reduced fees (i.e.
:> less than their 3% of list or whatever) to have the transaction
:> complete.  Is this true?  How typical is it?  What are the regulations
:
: For the agent I usually work with, any changes come out of his side of the
: commission.  For example, if he normally keeps 75% of the 3% that his side
: of the transaction generates (6% total commission), he can do whatever deal
: he wants, but his broker still expects to get 25% of 3%.  If you negotiate
: the commission to 5% on a $100,000 house the agent's net drops from $2,250
: to 1,250.  Not exactly an incentive to do a great job for you.

All things are negotiable, including the split between broker and agent.
If you want to keep total commission to, say, 3%, meaning that selling
side gets 1.5% and buying side gets 1.5%, and this means your agent gets
0% (because the broker MUST get 50% of 3%), then some re-negotiation and/
or shopping is called for.

In today's slow market, this should not be too hard to do.  You ought to
be able to find someone willing to go along with any deal that pays the
rent.

On the other hand, in today's slow market, you should also consider
upping the ante.  When I sold my condo, we went with a standard commis-
sion, plus a $500 bonus to the agent who brought the buyer, regardless
of the sales price.

This can work wonders for motivation, as this is "real money" in that it
is not split between two agencies, then split again between agent and
broker.  After paying income taxes on such splits, it's surprising there's 
any money left at all.

Try something like that ... tell your agent that you are not going to
simply give him a fraction of the deal so he can just put your house in
the MLS and sit back while other agents bring buyers.  Cut the standard
commission to whatever you feel is reasonable, then throw in a flat-fee
bonus to the agent who brings a buyer (which could even be your listing
agent).  Work the numbers right, and you'll be able to both save money 
and sell faster.

-- 
The Chipmunk.
Opinions are mine, void where prohibited, taxed, licensed or regulated.
So far as I can remember, there is not one word in the Gospels in
praise of intelligence.  -- Bertrand Russell
From: 21329JMK@MSU
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Mortage broker in St.Louis, Mo.
Date: 28 Sep 92 19:03:52 GMT
Organization: Michigan State University

Can someone recomend a dependable mortage broker or bank that can do a good
for a first time home buyer in the St. Louis Mo. area.  A good deal on a
house would also help.  Thanks.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,misc.invest.real-estate