HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: youngd@panix.com (David Young)
Subject: EF 14mm L vs Sigma 14
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 13:26:56 GMT
Organization: PANIX Public Access Unix, NYC
Keywords: cannon, sigma


	well I do own the EF 14mm L lens. used it for indoor
	and outdoor shooting. The lens is sharp and I never notice
	ghost problem or any barrel distortion (for a wide angle
	lens like this; that's pretty good)

	I had the EF 20-35L lens and the 14 lens is a better lens
	then the 20-35 at the 20 end in terms of contrast, sharpness
	and lower distortion.

	If you have to get down to 14mm focal length and willing to
	pay for it. EF 14mm is worth the money. it's sharp and
	no distortion no matter how close you focus. a F2.8
	means you can hand help to 1/15 of sec. great for
	capture street sceen.

	however, if you are willing to accept the lower speed, 
	and don't focus close (I found a lot of use of my 14mm
	lens shooting close up portrait in outdoor setting 
	to get as much background as I can in my pict.)
	And do not mind the distortion then Sigma is for you.

	I used to own the Sigma 21-35 F3.5 zoom for my old
	Cannon. it's a pretty good lens. I do like Sigma's
	optics. On the other hand, don't forget the EF14
	has USM and allow manul override. (it's fast
	and quite focusing) Sigma does not use USM motor.
	
dy
From: robert@sys.sweden.dg.com (Robert Claeson)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: 1000FN == Rebel IIs?? The English need to know!
Date: 11 Dec 92 12:42:37 GMT
Organization: Data General AB, Akalla, Sweden

In article <1992Nov30.120709.5890@spider.co.uk>, mikec@spider.co.uk (Mike Coren) writes:

> I'll post for the benefit of other rec.photo readers.  This is as much as
> I've been able to figure out on Canon's North American models and their
> international counterparts:
> 
> 	North America		International
> 	-------------		-------------
> 	EOS-1			EOS-1
> 	EOS-10s			EOS-10

Close, but not completely right. The EOS-10s is by Canon described as a
"prototype" camera from which the EOS-10 was developed. The difference
is that the flash of the EOS-10 pops up automatically. The EOS-10 model
couldn't be sold in the U.S. since someone had already patended that
mechanism there.

> 	Elan			EOS-100
> 	Rebel			EOS-1000
> 	Rebel S			EOS-1000 F
> 	Rebel II		EOS-1000 N
> 	Rebel S II		EOS-1000 FN
> 	A2E			EOS-5
> 	A2			none that I'm aware of
> 
> Anybody else know about the last one (A2 is the A2E without the eye-controlled
> focus)?  All I know is what I've read in the British photo rags, which seem to
> be enamored with the eye-controlled focus at the moment.

-- 
--------------------- This mass of gibberish came from ---------------------
         ____
        |    |               Robert Claeson
        |    |               Data General AB
 _______|____|_              Box 28
|    |    _    |_____        S-164 93 KISTA
|_/\ |   / \   |     |       Sweden
| \/ |   \_/   |   . |
|    |    |    |_____|       robert@sys.sweden.dg.com
|____|_________|-
From: tfb@aisb.ed.ac.uk (Tim Bradshaw)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Nikon FA lens compatibility
Date: 19 Dec 92 05:02:44 GMT
Organization: none

I'm considering buying a Nikon FA which is on offer fairly cheaply.
Previously I'd only consider4ed FM/FM2s so I don't know that much
about this camara.  It obviously has manual, aperture & shutter
priority & some program mode.  The questioin is: what lenses do you
need to use the shutter/program modes?  What it *has* is a standard
(AI?) fit Nikkor lens which I suspect won't do this stuff (it's
obviously quite a lot older than the camara) but perhaps I'm mistaken?

Please mail me any replies as I'll be away from news over Xmas.

Thanks,

--tim
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: myhui@bnr.ca (Michael Hui)
Subject: Re: Dumb Photographers
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd., Ottawa, Canada
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 92 05:07:11 GMT

In article <1gk2uiINN6tr@uniwa.uwa.edu.au> craig@ec.uwa.oz.au (Craig Richmond - division) writes:
>When a big burst of fireworks goes off up in the sky, the view that can be
>seen of all the camera flashes going off on the shore (show is held over a
>big river in front of Perth) is probably more impressive than the fireworks
>themselves.

Hey hey hey, wait a minute ... over here, we have fireworks in
front of our beautiful Parliament Buildings on every July 1st,
our national holiday (yes, all that flag waving stuff). The
buildings are right by a river, and we still have lots of birds
living around there. When the first few volleys go off, all the
poor birdies fly for their lives and flee the area.

So ... the photographers could be trying to catch the magnificent
and decidedly rare phenomenon of all sorts of different species
of birds all taking flight every which way in such high numbers
on a night sky that it does merit capturing on film.

So ... next time, set up your tripod underneath an area with the
most bird hibitat, and since the first few blasts of fireworks
are never the best ones anyway, aim your camera straight  up and
turn up the flash full blast, open your aperture right up, and
try to photograph some fleeing birds! Ahhh ... how about a whole
bunch of "flash filled" fleeing birds over a background of
fireworks? That would be really something. The Audibon Society
will probably buy the picture from you.
-- 
Michael MY Hui  ~{~}  myhui@bnr.ca  Ottawa Canada
From: Chuckie.Baby@f31.n343.z1.fidonet.org
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Table top processor.
X-Sender: newtout 0.02 Nov 17 1992
Date: 12 Dec 92  17:48:20

Does anybody know or havve used a table top processor? What is the best brand? 
I'm looking at the Fujimoto model that does RA-4 process. Any help  would be
great appreciated.

--- Tabby 3.0
From: jay@metran.UUCP (Jay Ts)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Hasselblad Film Flatness
Date: 12 Dec 92 20:40:37 GMT
Organization: Metran Technology, Tampa, Florida

bu890@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Brian Segal) writes:
: 
: I am not sure which magazines you read, but get a few copies of the Hasselblad
: Forum, and then consider the quality of the images..except those that were
: shot with Softar filters, you will find the images tack sharp!

And how might we get a copy of this magazine?

BTW, I don't know if this matters, but I do not consider tacks to be
very sharp.  Needles, yes.  Scalpels, yes.  Razor blades, yes.  Tacks?

Where did this phrase "tack sharp" come from, anyway?

-- 
Jay Ts
uucp mail: uunet!myrddin!tscs!metran!jay
phone: (813) 979-9169
Organization: Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 17:54:16 -0500 
From: Christophe Dumay <cd2t+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Tamron 90 mac : questions


According to many recent mails the Tamron 90 / 2.5 seems to be a great lense.

Recently settled in the US, I am planning to buy a new camera and I am
very interested in macro-photography.

- I know the AF version is available for Nikons, is it also available for Canon
EOS (I am hesitating between the EOS RT, N8008s and FM2 bodies) ? With a metal
mount ?

_ Can it be focused manually easily ?

_ Does this lense have a distance and a depth of field scale on it ?

- What is the diameter of the filter holder ?

- I have also heard that Tamron has an extension tube for this lense (to reach
mag 1:1). Can it be used with the AF lense (I suppose AF is lost) ?


If you can answer these questions please E-mail me at "cd2t+@andrew.cmu.edu"
Thank you in avance .

                            Christophe Dumay, at CMU.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: yee@uhunix.uhcc.Hawaii.Edu (Jonathan Yee)
Subject: Hasselblad: VF pic. area? MO pricing? 
Organization: The Mad Engineer's Institute
Distribution: rec
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 08:24:52 GMT

	I've noticed that Nikon, and perhaps others, specify how much of
the picture area is covered by the viewfinder.. As I'm considering Hassel-
blad -- I guess the "Classic" 500 C/M kit -- the question comes up as to
how much pic. area does its VF covers in terms of percentage (e.g., Nikon
F4S says its VF covers 100% of the pic. area, Nikon N8008S says (something)
more than 90% (less than 100%)). This is important esp. if one does copy
work and needs to know the VF's picture area boundaries.

	MO pricing. Cambridge Camera Exchange seems to have the best price
for the Classic: $1995 vs. $2295 or higher at all other MO outfits I've
seen. I suppose this may have to do with them selling a non-USA warranty
product. Anybody care to speculate or reason why *should* there be a
difference in price?...
From: bruceb@mpd.tandem.com (Bruce Burden)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Minolta or Canon?
Keywords: Which one?
Date: 14 Dec 92 21:29:46 GMT
Organization: Tandem Computers (MPD) Austin, TX

In article <Bz9CI4.4qs@cs.uiuc.edu> hasker@cs.uiuc.edu (Rob Hasker) writes:
>michael9@odie.cs.mun.ca (Michael Sullivan) writes:
>
>>[ The story thus far - may old Pratica has bit the bucket, so I need a new
>>camera, but I don't want to give up my Tamron 70-210 zoom.  Many people
>>have recommended a Pentax K1000 as a replacement.]
>>
>
>Do you realize you'll have to give up the Tamron 70-210 zoom if you switch
>to an AF camera like the Maxxum or Rebel?
>or a Canon EOS Rebel S-11.
>
	Actually, speaking for the Maxxum, this is not quite accurate.
    If the Tamron lens is an Adapt-all mount, Tamron does market a 
    Minolta Maxxum (Type A) Adapt-all mount.

	It is not as convienient to use, as you need to preselect the
    aperture (if you want the camera to select the shutter speed) but
    it can be done. I did this with my Maxxum 8000i and Tamron 60-300
    before replacing the lens with AF ones.



							Bruce



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  Bruce Burden            bruceb@mpd.tandem.com         Tandem Computers Inc.
From: bruceb@mpd.tandem.com (Bruce Burden)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Dumb Photographers
Date: 15 Dec 92 20:37:51 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Tandem Computers (MPD) Austin, TX

In article <1992Dec14.230225.23553@nntpd2.cxo.dec.com> feldman@hal9k.cxo.dec.com (james feldman) writes:
>Place: Colorado Springs Zoo, bird section.  Photographer (with very expensive
>nikon setup, manditory photo vest and military style khakis) decides all those
>signs and fences that warn you NOT to get close to the eagle (Bald and BIG)
>don't mean him.
>--

	Unfortunately it is this type of pinhead that gets tighter and
    tighter restrictions placed on the rest of us. Now, as far as Natl.
    Parks, I would rather the animals charged the moron immediately in
    front of them. It would make for some great action photos. Unfortunately,
    in this day and age, the photos would probably be confiscated by the
    lawyers hired by the morons relatives to win a multi million dollar
    law suit against the governemt for "failing to protoct the moron".
    <sigh>

	Unfortunately, I have seen this from people who you would think
    would know better. While in the UP of Michigan last year, a bird trip
    leader flushed a Great Grey Owl from a roost attempting to get a
    close up of the bird. As I was trying to photograph the same bird
    from rather furthur back, I was VERY annoyed. Hope all of the birders
    got a good look...



								Bruce


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  Bruce Burden            bruceb@mpd.tandem.com         Tandem Computers Inc.
From: hpb@hpb.cis.pitt.edu (Harry Bloomberg)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: I Hate Grainy Pictures
Keywords: HELP
Date: 13 Dec 92 06:00:03 GMT
Organization: University of Pittsburgh

In article <1992Dec12.140910.5999@spock.UUCP> gumby@spock.uucp (Danny Richman) writes:
>
>	I have recently been assigned to take indoor sports BW pictures for my
>school newspaper.  It's definitely a change of pace from the outdoor pictures 
>of fall sports which I take with 400 ASA Tri-x.  I need to take pictures at a 
>1/1000 sec. shutter speed so that the sports pictures are frozen, not blurred.
>I decided that it was necessary to use 3200 ASA T-Max due to the low light 
>conditions, but I am at my last stop and can't afford to push the film at all.
>When I enlarge the pictures I get a lot of grain.  Well, sure I expected it, 
>but isn't there anything I can do????  Is there any fine grain Black and White
>films out there????  Can't anyone help me????
>
   - I find that 1/500 shutter speed is acceptable for stopping action.
This will get you an additional stop of light that you can put to good
use.

   - TMax 3200 when exposed and developed at 1600 yields relatively fine
grain with very nice tonality.  You'll need to burn in basketball floors
but otherwise printing is pretty easy without the infameous Tmax
"blocked-up highlights".  Which leads me to...

   - What speed lens are you using?  A 50mm f1.8, 85mm f1.8 or 105mm
f2.8 will permit you to shoot at 1600 in most "big-time" arenas.  Forget
about big, slow zooms.  Using a faster lens will permit you to shoot with
slower film.

   - Learn to compose your shots so that you don't need very much
cropping and enlarging in the darkroom.  Don't fire your camera unless
your subject fills the frame.

Harry Bloomberg
hpb@vms.cis.pitt.edu
From: dbp0@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (DENNIS B. PRICE)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Restoring Old Photos
Date: 16 Dec 92 14:57:12 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

In article <85319@ut-emx.uucp>, claire@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Claire Sheppard) writ
es:
>
>       I just bought a Macintosh IIvx and would like to use it for restoring
>and retouching photographs. I was wondering if anyone was currently doing this
>and had any particular suggestions.
>       At present, I plan on buying a Scanmaker II [the one without photoshop
>because I already have a new copy of it].
>       Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
>
>       Thanks in advance.
>
>Claire Sheppard
>
Nice buy (IIvx is a decent system for photomanipulation... I'll be trying to
do the same thing with an older IIsi + a Radius 24bit video card).  A few
questions/suggestions for you:
1)  input issue - Did you buy the IIvx with the CD300i installed?  I hope so.
This is Apple newest CD which supports XA (multisession CDs) including Kodak
PhotoCD!  In my opinion, this would be the better scenario... Microtek's
ScanMaker II is about $1000... you could put close to 1000 images on photo CD
for that money.  I beleive the resolution is *much* better with photo CD (they
use a workstation in the processing).  If you don't have the CD300i, then you
can buy Apple's external CD300 for around $500.  The advatage with the CD is
that you can use it for other purposes, then again, I suppose you can use the
scanner for other purposes also.  The only remaining factor is what format
your exisiting material is in.  Prints:  The scanner is easier to use, with
PhotoCD you would, at this point, have to make negs or slides of the print to
put on photo CD (although Kodak is supposed to support other media formats
later in '93).  If you have negs/slides, photo CD is the way to go.
2) Display.  You want 24-bit (16.7 million colors).  The IIvx internal video
supports up to 16bit (32,000 colros) if you have 1MB of VRAM (you would have
this if you bought the model with the CD 300i, otherwise you have 512K of VRAM
and must buy two 512K VRAM SIMMS to go to 1MB).  The way to go might be as I
did, buy a 24-bit NuBus video card (from Radius, or SuperMac, etc..).  This
will provide you with the full 24-bit color you will want for photo editing.
If you are doing all your work in B&W, you won't need the extra video muscle.

I hope this helps (more than it confuses).

Brad Price
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: prodger@leland.Stanford.EDU (phillip prodger)
Subject: Re: Need help getting dark B&W sky
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 92 23:04:32 GMT

In article <1992Dec13.191205.27332@craycos.com> sog@craycos.com (Steve Gombosi) writes:
>In article <180600010@hpcndaw.CND.HP.COM> antonsen@hpcndaw.CND.HP.COM (Tim Antonsen) writes:
>>The sky in the Sierras is a remarkably deep blue. The sky in Texas is, I'm
>>sorry to say, not the same. This probably explains your problem. Filters are
>>unlikely to solve it. You could try infrared film (properly filtered) for
>>*reeeeealy* black sky, but you probably don't want its other characteristics.
>
>In addition, skies everywhere are less blue than they were in Adam's day -
>especially the last year or so (thanks to aerosols and particulates from
>Mt. Pinatubo). Try again in a year or two - I think you'll have better results.

That's pretty optimistic...

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: swansond@nextnet.csus.edu (Dennis Swanson)
Subject: Best cold weather performance? (was Re: Lithiums vs. alkalines)
Organization: California State University Sacramento
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 23:19:54 GMT

Seems like I've had worse luck with lithium batteries vs. silver oxide
(we're talking the 'button' kind here) in moderately cold (40's F) weather
so I'm wondering if someone in the know could rank AA's and NiCads and
those mega-buck lithiums in this respect.

(Followups to rec.batteries) :-)

	Den

-- 
..................................................................
: Dennis M. Swanson : "No matter how long you live, remember that :
: swansond@csus.edu : you will be dead much longer."  Eccl. 11:8b :
:...................:.............................................:
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: ianchan@leland.Stanford.EDU (Ian Hin Yun Chan)
Subject: Help with Minolta 8000i (again)
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 92 08:52:34 GMT

Thanks for responding about the exposure icon-thing. But now I've noticed that
the "MODE" and the button just beside it, when pressed together changes s
*something* from M to ME, and this time I'm absolutely clueless as to what's
going on. So what_is_ going on?
- Ian

Newsgroups: rec.photo,alt.cd-rom
From: osuch@acadia.Kodak.COM (Bill O'Such)
Subject: Photo CD information - PhotoEdge
Organization: Eastman Kodak Co., Rochester, NY
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 92 22:18:30 GMT

This is one in a series of posting of Photo CD information that
has previously been ftp'd to two sites (moin.nmsu.edu and cdrom.com).
Any questions on this posting or Photo CD should be sent to

   johnkcac@park.kodak.com


KODAK PHOTOEDGE AND RENAISSANCE AVAILABLE NOW
Provide Support for Photo CD Images


  ROCHESTER, N.Y., October 26_Kodak today 
announced the immediate availability of Kodak 
PhotoEdge version 1.0 software for DOS/Windows 
systems, and Kodak Renaissance version 1.1 
software for Macintosh systems, through Merisel 
Inc. and Ingram Micro Inc. distribution channels.

  Kodak PhotoEdge software enables Windows users 
to perform basic image correction and enhancement 
of high-quality Photo CD images, and transfer to 
other image file formats. Kodak PhotoEdge 
software supports Photo CD, TIFF, RIFF, BMP, PCX, 
RAW, and EPS formats for the Windows version. A 
Macintosh version of PhotoEdge software is 
scheduled to ship later this year. Kodak 
PhotoEdge software has a suggested retail price of 
$139.

  Kodak Renaissance software is a Macintosh-based 
color design tool that features native support for 
Photo CD images and other popular image formats, 
such as EPS, TIFF, and PICT. This intuitive page 
layout package provides a tear-away tool box and 
color palette, offering users interactive 
point-and-click access to design elements. Kodak 
Renaissance software has a suggested retail price 
of $695.

  For more information about any of Kodak's Photo 
CD-related software products, call the Kodak 
Information Center at 800/242-2424, ext. 53.

                       ###
                             
[Note: Kodak, PhotoEdge, and Renaissance are 
trademarks.]
    
Bill O'Such
Eastman Kodak Company


DISCLAIMER:
Kodak provides me access to this Net, and are not responsible for
my postings.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: prodger@leland.Stanford.EDU (phillip prodger)
Subject: Re: color change w/exposure change: Why?
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 92 23:17:31 GMT

In article <1992Dec10.155126.1@pearl.tufts.edu> rsmith@pearl.tufts.edu writes:
>I've got a question about some photos I recently took.  It was a foggy night
>in Cambridge, and I went out to take some long-exposure shots in the fog.
>I used Eastman 5296 (this is an ISO 400 color print film, process ECN-2),
>fairly wide aperature (f 3.5 or 4) and exposures bracketed from 1/2 sec to
>16 seconds (on a tripod, of course).  I got the prints back and, as expected,
>the shorter exposures are underexposed, with a greenish-yellow sickly cast
>to the light.  The longer exposures are brighter, of course, but now the light
>(and especially the sky) has a reddish-orange cast to it.  Why should a change
>in exposure alter the color balance like that?  I'm not too good at judging
>color from the negatives, so I can't even be sure it's the film; it could
>be the print-making.  Any ideas out there?

Reciprocity failure is common in extremely long or short exposures.  The
film fails to live up to the law of reciprocity (exposure=intensity x time)
and assumes a mind of its own.  When pushed to extremes like this, color
shifts are real common.

Check the manual or exposure guide that came with your film.  It typically
suggests, "not recommended for exposures less than ____ or greater than ____"
From: nuscss1@vms1.iscs.nus.sg (Vax BULLET-IN-Board SysOps)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Depth of Field preview - any 'cheap` SLRs?
Date: 10 Dec 92 22:35:00 GMT
Organization: National University of Singapore Dept. of Computer Sc.
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <BywE7M.Gy9@fulcrum.co.uk>, rct@fulcrum.co.uk (Richard Taylor) writes...
>Are there any low-end cameras that depth of field preview? It seems like a
>very simple thing to add...
> 
>Low-end means near the price of a Rebel IIs (1000FN to me!).

	check out the EOS630/600...
	i don't know if it can be considered low-end, given its features,
	but it costs only a little more then the Rebel IIs.
	i think its a pretty good camera, worth every cent.

> 
>Thanks in advance,
>Regards,
>============================================================================
>Richard Taylor                  DoD #981                 (rct@fulcrum.co.uk)
>   Heard about the dyslexic devil worshipper who sold his soul to Santa?
>============================================================================
>Fulcrum Communications Ltd., Fordrough Lane, Birmingham, B9 5LD, ENGLAND.
> 
> 
Newsgroups: rec.photo