HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: ide@studio.enet.dec.com (Jamie Ide)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Slow Fermentation Question
Date: 10 Sep 92 12:06:03 GMT
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation


I've got a batch of Avogadro's Expeditious Old Ale (from Papazian's
book) fermenting away and it doesn't show any signs of quitting after
2 weeks.  I'm getting one bubble approximately every 2-3 minutes; it's
been at this rate for a little over a week.  So, I broke down and
bought a hydrometer, which told me that it has a SG of 1.013, placing
it at the bottom end of the final gravity range for this recipe.  This
leads me to a few questions:

What could cause a beer to go into a slow ferment like this?  It's
been at a stable temp. and hasn't been moved around.

More to the point, what besides an infection could cause this?

How many days should I get stable SG readings before bottling is safe? 
I believe 2-3 is suggested.

By the way, the sample I took for SG tasted just fine for beer at this
stage.

Thanks for any help!  I'd like to bottle this ASAP -- I'm running low
(the ONLY reason to worry).

Jamie Ide

ide@studio.enet.dec.com
From: devine@olympus.CS.Berkeley.EDU (bob devine)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: So _THAT'S_ What They Think "Beer" Is ...
Date: 9 Sep 1992 18:01:52 GMT
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
NNTP-Posting-Host: olympus.cs.berkeley.edu
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL3

malodah@pbhyf.PacBell.COM (Martin A. Lodahl) writes:
: Therefore, the flavor 
: of Coors Cutter may well represent the taste that most Americans
: register as "beer" ...  It's DMS!!  Dimethyl-goddam-sulfide!

Hmm, combining that with the familiar skunkiness of green-glass
bottles of Heineken (the #1 import to USA) gives a strange view
of popular brews!

Bob Devine
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 1992 22:48:40 EDT
From: <VPN1@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Straub's Brewery

Dino's posting about Straub's Brewery is correct.
St. Mary's is in north-central PA, in what is mostly
"wilderness," but there is some industry there--
sintered metals, for example.
     When I visited the brewery some years ago, about
a dozen guys were stuffing full bottles into cases.
One, who differed from the others only by age, was the
owner.  He detached himself and gave us a personal tour.
Because of my academic interest in mass communications, I
asked him why he doesn't advertise his beer.  He said
something like, "Well, we're a family that likes to hunt
and fish, and we don't want to give that up just to make
more money."
     BTW, another family-owned brewery, Yuengling, here in
PA, is the oldest in the USA, founded in 1829.  (Thomas
Jefferson died just three years too early to enjoy a Yuengling.)
They make several excellent brews.
                                  vince norris, penn state u.
From: ech@ac.dal.ca
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: last batch too dry...help!
Date: 7 Sep 92 14:29:15 -0300
Organization: Dalhousie University, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

My current batch of mild is too dry.  Are there any suggestions
for sweetening up my next batch?  I'm not keen on using Dave Line's
technique of adding sacharine, and my local brewshops carry only
dried yeast, and only about three or four of those.  I have no
clue as to whether any of these are non-attenuative.  So my questions
are: 1) are any dried yeasts more or less attenuative than others?
     2) which malts/sugars are least fermentable
     3) does a higher mash temp, ie greater beta amylase action
	increase the sweetness?
     4) any other suggestions?

Thanx,
Ed
From: sarisky@a.chem.upenn.edu (Mark J. Sarisky)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: "Dry" Beer?
Date: 7 Sep 92 14:22:53 GMT
Organization: University of Pennsylvania

In article <715870814.F00001@blkcat.UUCP> John.DeCarlo@f131.n109.z1.fidonet.org (John DeCarlo) writes:
>On <Sep0708:14, Rich Gopstein (1:109/401) wrote:
>
> RG >How do the recent "dry" beers (Michelob, Bud, Molson, ...) differ
> RG >from non dry beers?  How would one home brew some?  Thanks.
>
>Basically they just use a more attenuative yeast, which eats more of the sugar
> You can get a similar effect by adding some yeast nutrient or amylase enzyme
>(?) to your beer after primary fermentation is over, causing more fermentation
>activity.

Also, certain yeasts produce drier beer for the same reason, more sugar to
fermentation products.  I recently used an English ale yeast that is similar
to Whitbreads but produces a drier beer.  I am not sure who makes it but
it was called Winsor (sp?) ale yeast and I got it at Home Sweet Homebrew
in Philadelphia, 215-569-9469.  The result was a noticable 'dry' finish.  Real
clean.  The beer was a Centennial Pale Ale (Centennial Hops in the boil and
finish, with a touch of Willamette for Dry Hopping.)  

Hope this helps!
Mark Sarisky
sarisky@a.chem.upenn.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: erich@wubios.wustl.edu (Erich Schraer)
Subject: Re: ST. LOUIS BREW PUBS
Organization: Division of Biostatistics, WUMS, St. Louis, MO
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1992 16:27:34 GMT

In article <1976.529.uupcb@wugate.wustl.edu> rik.brown%travel@wugate.wustl.edu (Rik Brown)  writes:
>Are there any brew pubs in St. Louis? If so, can you recommend a
>favorite?
>
>Thanks. -- Rik

There is one brew pub is St. Louis (and that only opened less than a
year ago), the St. Louis Brewery and Taproom, which brews Shlafly beers.
Their brewmaster is Dave Miller.  The exact lineup of beers they have
varies, but as of the last time I was there (last Thursday) they had a
German-styled Pilsener, a filtered wheat ale, a hefeweizen, a pale ale,
and an oatmeal stout.  They were also due to tap an Oktoberfest last
Friday.  The St. Louis Brewery and Taproom is located at 21st and
Locust.  Note that I have no connection with the place.  I'm merely a
satisfied beer-drinker.
				--Erich
--
  / Erich Schraer                               St. Louis, MO  63110 \
 /  Division of Biostatistics                 erich@wubios.wustl.edu  \
 \  Washington University School of Medicine    Voice: (314)362-3681  /
  \ 660 S. Euclid Ave., Box 8067                  Fax: (314)362-2693 /
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: message for David Birkhead
From: andy@comp.vuw.ac.nz (Andy Bond)
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 22:14:33 GMT
Organization: NewZnet Support Group, VUW, New Zealand.
X-Mailer: mail-news 4.0


[Apologies to everyone else but David's return address don't work.]

David,

David> I know they ship.  If you would like I'll get you their address
David> and see what shiping charges would be.

That would be great!

thanks,
andy
From: daveb@greenman.sybase.com (David Birkhead)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: sterilization with a microwave?????
Date: 4 Sep 92 15:28:06 GMT
Reply-To: daveb@greenman.sybase.com
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.

In article 67242@hydra.gatech.EDU, hhaas@RAIL9000.gatech.edu (Harry P. Haas) writes:
>In article <BtLn5D.Gu7@wrs.com> gak@wrs.com writes:
>>In article 17enr6INNn7t@darkstar.UCSC.EDU, wolfgang@cats.ucsc.edu (Robert F Dougherty) writes:

>On water . . . What is the concensus on methods for removing chlorine?
>I also have a salt-water tank, and every time I use Stress Coat (de-
>chlorinizer with aloa) I ponder adding a bit to my brew water.  I live
>in a rather large city with heavily chlorinated water, and sometimes
>have batches that struggle to reach complete fermintation.
>
>Any Thoughts on either subject?

Boil it.

chlorine evaporates faster than water.

daveb

PS. Is any body out there?  I'm not sure if my postings are making it to the group.

daveb
From: Delano.Dugarm@f131.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Delano Dugarm)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Dry Spicing
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 08:43:08 -0500

        I have a batch of spiced ale in the primary made from CP's Holiday Cheer
recipe.  Looking at my tasting notes for the batch I made last fall, I find that
the orange peel and ginger flavors were much stronger than the cinnamon.  My
idea is to add more cinnamon when I rack to the secondary, probably in the form
of sticks rather than ground.  What I'm concerned about is avoiding a cinnamon
beer while still having some cinnamon taste and aroma. Has anyone  tried doing
dry spicing?  What results did you have?  E-mail to me and I'll summarize if
there is any interest.

Delano DuGarm adugarm@worldbank.org

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Subject: Re: mold on my brew - help!
Organization: ddsw1.MCS.COM Contributor, Chicago, IL
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 1992 22:33:31 GMT

In article <BuDGK8.A8D@news.dtc.hp.com> peterm@dtc.hp.com (Sweet Pete) writes:
>My secondary has been sitting for about a week and I notice there is some
>mold floating on the surface.  Is this likely to be serious?  Should I ditch
>the batch?
>
>This was made from a kit and I used only one can (3.75 lbs) and no added
>sugar so the alcohol is pretty low.  Does this contribute to the likelihood
>of mold forming?  I've never had this problem before.
>
>Any advice would be welcomed.

a
The most likely source of mould is the yeast.  What kind did you use?

You can try racking it and keeping the floating stuff back but it is not
likely to go away.  Moldy tasting beer is incurable.

js
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Subject: Stout vs. Porter (was Re: Jap Crap!!! (DEFINED))
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean  VA
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 16:12:01 GMT

In article <brewer.7769@meltdown.chi.il.us>
 brewer@meltdown.chi.il.us (Mike Wilson) writes:

>Essentially, a stout is a strong porter, it uses much more chocolate
>and black patent malts than a porter does.  It's these dark malts that
>impart that "burned" flavor.  So, go find a porter, or two, and try those 
>out.  They may be what you're looking for.

Well, there is no agreed-upon definition of porter, but you are on the right 
track.  The grain you are thinking of is roasted barley.  This is 
appropriate for a stout, but not for a porter.  It is not malted, like black 
patent and chocolate malts, and is primarily responsible for the "burned" 
or "roast" flavor in a stout.

John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own
Fidonet:  1:109/131  Internet:  jdecarlo@mitre.org
From: slndw@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Big Brewers (was High Gravity)
Date: 15 Sep 92 14:27:56 MDT
Organization: Utah State University

In article <1992Sep15.185354.20052@mmm.serc.3m.com>, us279764@mmm.serc.3m.com (Philip . Miller) writes:
>
stuff deleted
 
>  I maintain that the Big Brewers are guilty of nothing more than
>  trying to make money.
> 
>  Imagine for a minute, that Miller _could_ call water "beer" and they
>  marketed it as Miller Mega Lyte.  Who would buy it?  Nobody.  Even the
>  average American beer drinking Joe isn't _that_ stupid.  I mean, he may
>  try to use his lawn mower as a pair of hedge clippers and slice off his
>  fingers, but his isn't gonna pay $3.50 for a six pack of water...


Last time I was at the grocery, they had lots of bottled water
(sparkling, with and without "flavor") for $3.50+ per six!!

Maybe bud needs to start selling sparkling water!!

>stuff deleted
 
>  I suppose the question is:  why do Americans like such awful stuff?
>  American Chinese cuisine is awful, American Mexican cuisine is awful,
>  and American style lagers are awful...  Why is it that Americans don't
>  like any flavor in their food and beverages (besides sugar)

and salt!!

Hey, just drink/eat what you like.  If nobody makes what you like,
either suffer or make your own beer/tortilas/soap/whatever.

-toot
From: dwv@cs.brown.edu (David W. Vorbrich)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: unordered lites (was Cam. Promises)
Date: 14 Sep 1992 00:12:24 GMT
Organization: Brown Computer Science Dept.
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: hector.cs.brown.edu

In article <24951@oasys.dt.navy.mil>, smennitt@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Stuart Mennitt)
|> 
|> Has anyone ordered a regular Miller in a bar
|> and been brought a Lite?  (Spare me the "Of course I'd never order a
|> Miller" stuff).

Just last week I ordered a Rolling Rock in a club, and received a Rolling
Rock Light instead.  This really surprised me, as I believe Rolling Rock
would be ordered more regularly than the light version, whereas Miller Lite
is probably ordered more than plain Miller, which might explain your wrong
order.

-David V.
 dwv@cs.brown.edu
From: us279764@mmm.serc.3m.com (Philip . Miller)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Cajun cooker for cheap?
Date: 9 Sep 92 21:50:02 GMT
Organization: 3M Company

Okay all you Rocket-Motor-Camp-Cooker users:

I'm looking for a >100,000 BTU Cajun Cooker/King Kooker type
burner and I'd really like to spend less than $50.  Anybody know
where I can get one?

Thanks in advance!

Phil Miller
pmiller@mmm.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Subject: Re: Great idea but....
Keywords: Pathetic snivelling
Organization: ddsw1.MCS.COM Contributor, Chicago, IL
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 02:10:09 GMT

>In article <hersh.715967797@xenon.lcs.mit.edu> hersh@expo.lcs.mit.edu (Jay Hersh) writes:
>>
>>
>>It has nothing to do with showing anyone anything Jack, My mill is not
>>a converted past maker, it is and always was deisgned for crushing grain,
>>I just modified it to make it more efficient for crushing barley for 
>>brewing vs. crushing a range of grains for making Muesli. And the 
>>lowdown is $$ this mill was $40 cheaper than your mill.

>I seemed to have missed this but as you insist on rubbing my nose in the
high price of a product designed for the homebrewer I may as well get a
ride for my money.

It takes less than 30 seconds to crush a pound of malt in the MM.  Would
you like to tell us how long it takes you with yours and why the extra
$40 just may be considered a bargain by some people?

js

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Subject: Re: SG on double malting
Organization: ddsw1.MCS.COM Contributor, Chicago, IL
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1992 02:29:41 GMT
X-Disclaimer:  Material posted in this article is the sole responsibility of
                the poster and does not represent MCSNet or the system owners.

 
 Article 5579 (22 more) in rec.crafts.brewing:
 From: aki <aki@atlas.worldbank.org>
 
 >BTW I don't mind getting flamed...
 
 HOW DARE YOU SAY SUCH A THING.  You just de-frocked the 
 net.tranquililty preachers.
 
 >it's just embarrassing asking such a simplistic question to 
 all you brewmasters out there. 
 
 Never in history has it been easier to get answers (both 
 good and bad) to just about any question one can think of.
 
 Computer access is as available to beginners as it is to 
 experts and it should be recognized that comments and 
 questions will range from naive to esoteric.
 
 It should also be recognized that the poplulation 
 distribution on these networks is more or less Gaussian in 
 personalities also.... from sniveling, reclusive, introverts 
 to pompous, paranoid, dogmatists.
 
 Most of us take it all for what it is worth, i.e. getting  
 answers needed, and either ignore the flak or join the fray.
 
 The net.tranquility preachers have their own program and are 
 also part of the population distrubution.
 
 I of course, as the World's Greatest Brewer, simply muse on 
 all this from my Olympian peak.
 
 js

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: gak@wrs.com (Richard Stueven)
Subject: Re: And another thing - more brew!!!
Reply-To: gak@wrs.com
Organization: Wind River Systems, Inc.
Distribution: ba
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 18:03:37 GMT

In article lasdi1INN5ue@jethro.Corp.Sun.COM, jmm@scarabz.Corp.Sun.COM (John Morrison) writes:
>     I also had some great Amber at the Calistoga Inn, Restaurant and Brew Pub
>in Calistoga CA.  I was not aware that they brewed beer, but it was great stuff.

Very good stuff.  Their porter and stout are pretty good, too.

BTW, the Ninth Annual Beer and Sausage Festival is coming up on October
17 at the Calistoga Fairgrounds.  Call (707) 942-6333 for details.  I
went last year and had a blast.

>PS:  Does anyone know if there are some brew pubs in the Bodega Bay area of
>the Calif. Coast??  I heard that the little town of Jenner has some nice
>"places", but do they have BREW!!!!!

I can't think of any that near the coast, but check your Celebrator to
be sure.  On your way up, you might check out Dempsey's in Petaluma and
Kelmer's in Santa Rosa...

have fun
gak

---
I don't know what system you use,  you might try vodka in Evian bottles.   Some
people like  cream in  their morning coffee,  I spike  mine with  a little  JD.
Mickey's Big Mouths are an excellent choice, you can use the empty bottles as a
desktop vase.                               -Hoodlum Empire "Get Drunk At Work"
Richard Stueven        gak@wrs.com         attmail!gakhaus!gak        107/H/3&4
From: slndw@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: aluminum brew kettle bottom with rest SSteel
Date: 15 Sep 92 11:42:13 MDT
Distribution: na
Organization: Utah State University

In article <1992Sep14.195406.3232@bmerh85.bnr.ca>, erbachgm@bcarh2a3.bnr.ca (Gary Erbach) writes:
> I am thinking about getting a Stainless Steel pot and was phoning a few
> restaurant supply stores in town. The cheapest one that I have found so
> far has an aluminium clad bottom on it.
> 
> Will this be a problem (melting) with the high heat needed to boil
> on a stove top or gas flame?


NO.  On the contrary, it will help distribute the heat to the brewpot.
This is a nice feature, and usually makes the pot more expensive.

How big is this pot??

buy it!!

> 
> Gary Erbach
> erbachgm@bnr.ca
> 


-toot
From: rein@GANDALF.BERKELEY.EDU (steve rein)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Christmas Brew
Date: 8 Sep 92 22:08:56 GMT

Greetings, More Experienced Ones!

I've brewed up 2 batches so far and haven't yet left the world of 
extract brews.  I'm interested in brewing up a batch of Christmas
Beer (you know, spiced and more highly charged).  However, I'm
not ready to take the full plunge until well after Christmas.  

Do any of you have a recipe that only uses malt extract (malt syrup of
various types are available cheap near here) for a Christmas Ale?
How about a version that uses mostly extract?

many thanks,

steve rein			There are three kinds of lies:  lies, 	
rein@stat.berkeley.edu		damned lies, and statistics - Disraeli
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: julie@eddie.jpl.nasa.gov (Julie Kangas)
Subject: Thanks to all from the Newbie
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory, Pasadena, CA
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 19:15:31 GMT


I'd like to thank everyone who answered my question about
temperatures, racking early, and cleaning the fermentation 
lock.  

I've decided to be much more worry-free and rack a day 
early if I want and not to be so concerned about the 
temperature.  I did clean the fermentation lock and
discovered that I was maybe 1/2mm away from a popped top.

I'll now go write "Don't Worry.  Have a Homebrew." 500 times
on the chalkboard :)

Thanks,
Julie
#include "std_disclaimer.h"
#include "witty_sig.h"
From: comfrank@ubvmsd.cc.buffalo.edu (Frank Tutzauer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Building a chiller (was Re: all-grain brewing)
Date: 15 Sep 92 16:31:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <1992Sep14.203746.20236@noose.ecn.purdue.edu>, 
redfreak@softcopy.ecn.purdue.edu (Thomas Lobonc) writes...

> ...
>A tip: MAKE OR BUY A WORT CHILLER. Whether you are brewing with grain or
>not. Jim and I made simple 20' immersion chillers out of 3/8" copper
>tubing. ...
> 
>The hardest part in making one is going from the faucet to the tube. I
>couldn't find a creature called a "3/8" hose barb" Here is what I did.
>Buy an adapter for your faucet that will accept a female garden hose end.
>Connect a 5/8" female hose repair end to it. Get some 5/8" ID vinyl hose
>and put a short section of 5/8" OD vinyl hose in it. Put a length of
>1/2" OD "stiff opaque white plastic hose" (whatever) inside that. Clamp
>it up with a 7/8 hose clamp, and clamp the other end onto your 3/8"
>copper. Modify parts as necessary to fit whatever diameters you need.
> 

Getting to the faucet was the hardest part for me, too.  I had the copper
tubing all coiled and ready to go, but didn't know how to get it to
the faucet.  And I didn't want to buy one of these "faucet adaptors"
from a catalog sight unseen.

One day, I was taking a bath, when, Eureka!, it hit me.  We don't have
a shower, only a tub, so we've got one of these sprinkler gizmos that
has a rubber cup that attaches to a kitchen-sink sized faucet.  The
cup is attached to a tube by a little plastic piece, and the
tube in turn is attached to the sprinkler.  You use it to wash your hair.

It was perfect.  I yanked off the sprinkler, but the tube was just
a hair too big for my 3/8" o.d. copper tubing.  Not to worry.  I 
disconnected the tube from the rubber part that goes to the faucet.
My regular 3/8" i.d. syphon hose fit it great, and the syphon hose
can be clamped to the copper.  Voila:  wort chiller.

The only problem was I had to buy a new gizmo for the bathroom.
$2.99 from K-mart.


--frank
From: peterm@dtc.hp.com (Sweet Pete)
Subject: Re: mold on my brew - help!
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 20:30:19 GMT
Organization: Where No Man Has Gone Before

In article <BuHLBv.L4q@ddsw1.mcs.com> arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) writes:
>The most likely source of mould is the yeast.  What kind did you use?
>
Munton & Fison Ale yeast.  I'd kept it in the refrigerator and rehydrated it
with 100 degree water before pitching.  Maybe leaving that out uncovered for
15 minutes or so in the kitchen did the trick ....

>You can try racking it and keeping the floating stuff back but it is not
>likely to go away.  Moldy tasting beer is incurable.

I tossed it into the garden.  It tasted ok but I wasn't willing to risk
further spoilage in the bottles.  Perhaps my tomatoes will benefit from it.

	Peter
-- 
Peter C. Maxwell,                      ARPA:   peterm@dtc.hp.com
Hewlett-Packard Company,
5301 Stevens Creek Blvd, MS 53U/36,    UUCP:   ..!hplabs!hpdtlpm!peterm
Santa Clara, CA 95052-8059             (408) 553 2512
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Subject: Re: Newbie question
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean  VA
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 13:12:02 GMT

In article <1992Sep9.185301.23827@mahendo.jpl.nasa.gov>
 julie@eddie.jpl.nasa.gov (Julie Kangas) writes:

>I've got a question concerning my first batch (wheat beer).  I'm
>supposed to rack it after five days and continue fermenting for another
>five before I bottle.

That sounds sort of suspicious.  I use the basic rule of not racking to the 
secondary until the kraeusen (head of foam) falls back into the wort/beer.

>I used a plastic pail for the primary fermenter and still had a ton
>of gunk come out the fermentation lock.  The lock is still in place
>though but extremely cruddy.  Should I wash this before going to
>the secondary fermenter and risk air contact with the beer?  Should
>I use a blow-off tube next time?

I would wash it, if you can, while you are racking from the primary to the 
secondary.  This will take a few minutes and you aren't using the airlock 
for anything during that time.

As for needing blow-off, that depends.  It is often more difficult with a 
plastic fermenter, as the lids often have very small holes, suitable for 
airlocks but not for blow-off.  This batch may just be abnormal, or you 
could be using a very small plastic pail (< 6.5 gallons).

John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own
Fidonet:  1:109/131  Internet:  jdecarlo@mitre.org
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing