HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: morlang@iastate.edu (Gregory A Morlan)
Subject: best subs
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames, IA
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 02:55:08 GMT

Could those of you out there, who have purchased or have heard
the following speakers e-mail me and tell me what you thought of
them.  The speakers I am most interested in at this time are 
Pioneer 12" subs, Cerwin-Vega 12" subs, Pyle 12" Subs, and 
Kicker 12" subs.  Any information you could send me regarding
performance and quality of the speakers would be *greatly* 
appreciated.  Especially the amount of BASS they have!!


---------------------------------------------
\   Greg Morlan (morlang@iastate.edu)        \
 ----------------------------------------------
From: frankb@kit.CNA.TEK.COM (Frank Borden  436)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Can I run car stereo on battery charger?
Date: 16 Dec 92 23:19:34 GMT
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Beaverton,  OR.

In article <1992Dec16.155512.45695@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu> thompson@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu writes:
>I have a Clarion 9772RT pull out car stereo tape/receiver.  I also have
>a Kenwood 50x2 watt amp, and two Sony 6x9 speakers.  All of this equipment
>is sitting in my room doing nothing (I won't have a car for a while).

>I had an idea about how to use this car stereo equipment with the house
>electricity (110 volt I guess).  Can I use a car battery trickle chargerer?
>I can get a 10 amp one for $30.  Am I right in assuming that a 10 amp
>charger charging at 12 volts (car voltage) will yield (10 * 12) 120 watts
>of power before overloading?  I thought I heard that amps * volts = watts.
>Is this true.  If it is, is this a safe way to run my car stereo on my
>house current?  I could use a surge protector to prevent spikes.  Is there
>anything that I should be warned about that might damage my equipment by
>doing this?  

>I await any responses.  Thanks.

Sorry for wasting bandwidth but I wanted to post here so if I say something
wrong that might hurt this persons equipment someone will let him and I
know.

First, I also have a Clarion 9772RT and am thinking of doing the same, except
I am going to use a regular transformer, a full wave rectifier, and a
capacitor to get a solid 12V DC output. There are a few problems I see
with the way you want to do it.

1. Is 10 amps enough current. The deck will probably only use 1 or 2
amps if you are not using the internal amp, but the Kenwood amp may want
more than that. Is the 50X2 max or continuous? If it is continuous you
may need more current because it may only be about 50% efficient. If
this is the case you need 200 watts input to make 100 watts output.
(and yes P=VI)

2. The output from the battery charger may not be 12V DC. It may
be a 12 V sine wave that has been rectified which means it still
varies from 0 to 12V at 60 Hz. It just doesn't go to -12V. You can
check this with a voltmeter. Set it on DC and see if you get a constant
value or a value that keeps jumping around. If it is not constant then
you may be able to get a usable DC voltage by placing a large capacitor
across the output of the chargers terminals.

I am not an expert on this (by any means) but it can be done, it just
requires some caution.

I hope this helps a bit,
Frank.

Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: john_marousek@msmgate.mrg.uswest.com (John Marousek)
Subject: Re: CD in 88 Mazda 929
XUserAgent: Nuntius v1.1
Organization: MRG
NntpPostingHost: john_marousek.mrg.uswest.com
Date: 17 Dec 92 22:44:10 GMT

In article <1gqa34INN52f@darkstar.UCSC.EDU> Peter Harris,
pharris@ucscm.ucsc.edu writes:
>This is a repost, since my messages have been
>getting garbled:
>
>I have a 1988 Mazda 929 and would like to
>install an in dash CD player, keeping the
>existing cassette receiver amp, an speakers.
>I have been told that there is an aux input on
>the radio, so it seems to me that all I need
>would be the CD player and a selector switch. It
>looks like I could take out the ashtray & IUd
>have room for the player. Any advice/experience
>reports/recommendations would be greatly
>appreciated.
>Peter Harris
>University of California Santa Cruz
>
>UI may be mistaken, but IUm never wrong.

Well,

I have an 89 Maxima and wanted to do the same thing. Been looking for a
straight cdplayer ( no tuner) and cannot seem to find one. What I
finally did was buy a cdchanger with a remote control and hook it up to
the reciever ( via preamp). Thanks from the help of a writer on the
net......

If no preamp inputs you can use the fmmodulator. I have been checking
prices and they run ~ $400$500 for cd changer of this type


John
From: trw@spl1.spl.loral.com (Tim R Witort)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: How many remote leads?
Date: 17 Dec 92 19:30:10 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Loral Software Productivity Laboratory

In article <1992Dec16.184946.6607@njitgw.njit.edu>, cjm9321@hertz.njit.edu (The InfoMan) writes:
|> In article <17565@umd5.umd.edu> ui68@linus.umd.edu (Bill Kyte) writes:
|> >
|> >   I have a small question for the net.  How many leads can you run off of 
|> >the head units remote wire? I want to run two or three amps and don't know
|> >what to do with the other two remote leads from the amps.
|> >Anyone's help would be greatly appreciated.
|> >       Thank you
|> >                  -Bill
|> 
|> 	Crutchfied has something about this in one of there free
|> literature booklettes. They say to use a relay (I forgot which one)
|> connected to the remote of the head unit so that it switches to a fused
|> wire connected to the battery. Then the output from the relay would be
|> coming directly from the battery so you can connect that wire to a
|> distribution block.

   The relay Crutchfield suggests is a Bosch +12V relay.  It is hooked
up thusly:


                      +----------------------> to all of your remote
            +---------|-+                      component's turn on
            |  87---  | |                      leads
            |     |___| |
            |           |
            |    87A    |     rem.  +-----------+
  +------------| --- |--------------| Head Unit |     
  |         | 86     85 |   turn-on +-----------+ 
  |         |           |
 ---        |   +-|     |
  -         |   | 30    |
ground      +---|-------+
                +---------------+
                                |
                       _||______||_
                      |  -       + |
                      |            |
                      | Car Batery |
                      |____________|


   This setup will give you an almost unlimited number
of components you can turn on remotely without putting 
any significant current demand on your head unit's remote
turn-on lead (probably around 100-300mA).

-- Tim (in no way affiliated with Crutchfield)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: maley@nmt.edu (Mark Maley)
Subject: Re: CLASS A AMP INFO
Organization: New Mexico Tech
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 03:57:37 GMT

In article <1992Dec15.084243.23408@schbbs.mot.com> RYNA10@waccvm.corp.mot.com (Jay Kopycinski) writes:
>------------------------- Original Article -------------------------
>Path: schbbs!mothost!ftpbox!uunet!olivea!spool.mu.edu!yale.edu!yale!gumby!destro
>From: maley@nmt.edu (Mark Maley)
>Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
>Subject: Re: Class A MOSFET Power Amp for sale...
>Message-ID: <1992Dec13.183539.20822@nmt.edu>
>Date: 13 Dec 92 18:35:39 GMT
>References: <1992Dec11.001832.13833@henson.cc.wwu.edu> <Bz56Ax.IGJ@citrus.SAC.CA
>Organization: New Mexico Tech
>Lines: 42
>
>In article <Bz56Ax.IGJ@citrus.SAC.CA.US> eddys@citrus.SAC.CA.US ( Steve Eddy ) w
>>n8842401@henson.cc.wwu.edu (Matthew Stearns) writes:
>>: veloovet writes:
>>:
>>: >    I have a Bolt MOSFET car power amp for sale
>>: >    Here are some of the specifications:
>>: >        Class A...
>>: >        Full MOSFET power supply...
>>:
>>:
>>: ...Just thought I'd point this out...
>>which is applied typically to amplifier output stages and has nothing to do
>>with power supplies, and "MOSFET" refers to a type of transistor which can
>>be used in power supplies OR amplifier output stages.
>>
>> ...Just thought I'd point this out...
>>
>>******** Theoretical efficiency of a class A amp is 50%.  Most car amps
>>do not use 12 volts for the amp supply.  They use a switching power
>supply (running at about 25-30 KHz) to "boost" the DC collector or
>drain supply upwards.  (This converts the 12 volts to something higher.)
>This then allows higher voltage swings and allows greater power output
>to the  

Woops, I apologize, theoretical efficiency is 50%.  I returned home to
re-assure myself of my facts only to find out I had botched theory a bit.
Below is a quote from Basic Electronics Theory written by Delton T. Horn.

		Theoretically, when a transformer is used between the
	loudspeaker and the transistor in a Class A amplifier, the 
	maximum efficiency of the overall circuit is 50 percent.  . . .
		An efficiency of 50 percent certainly sounds very low.  But
	the situation is usually worse than thery suggests.  In a practical
	Class A amplifier circuit, the actual efficiency is 20 to 40
	percent lower because of losses and limits of the transformer, and
	the amplifier circuitry itself.  p 404

I guess the second paragraph is what stuck in my head.  All these numbers
to remember with finals and all . . . never mind, sorry excuse!

Despite all this, one question remains.  Why are home amps of Class A
design found to be the absolute most expensive, and yet an auto amp
of similar class in this case is found to be a measly $100?  

Mark

maley@jupiter.nmt.edu

p.s. I beg of the original poster to please give us more specs and info.  
     Perhaps a distortion rating?


Newsgroups: rec.audio.car,rec.woodworking
From: javery@bnr.ca (Joel Avery)
Subject: Re: Fix scratch in CD?
Reply-To: javery@bnr.ca
Organization: Bell Northern Research
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 18:29:27 GMT

Here is what you want to do.  Post to rec.audio, and let the audiophiles
answer your question.  From what I have heard in the past (and you can ignore
it, as I don't read the aforementioned group), is that polishing it *can*
help, but no guarantees.  A fine rubbing compound might also be helpful,
as the disc is not so heavily damaged (since it plays at home).
From: hhtra@usho72.hou281.chevron.com (T.M.Haddock)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: 4x6" Plate Speakers
Date: 17 Dec 92 22:06:19 GMT
Organization: Chevron

In article <1992Dec17.194437.5586@njitgw.njit.edu>, cjm9321@hertz.njit.edu (The InfoMan) writes:
|> 
|> 	I'm in search for a pair of 4x6" Plate speakers that have a
|> woofer and tweeter. I haven't had time to shop around yet so I just
|> composed a list from the CSR Buyer's Guide.
|> 	Let me know what you think of the following:
|> 
|> 		Altec Lansing		ALS-46
|> 		Audio Art by Mingar (??) Model 46C
|> 		Earthquake		PL-46
|> 		G&S			NS-46PL
|> 		Gold Sound		GS-4x6P
|> 		JBL 			T464
|> 		Majestic (????)		MS-46P
|> 		MTX			RTP46 and MTP-462
|> 		Phase Linear		PL4602
|> 		Polk			MM300, MM4620, MM2200
|> 					(Which will fit in 4x6"?)
|> 		Pyle			K-MTP46
|> 		Radion (????)		DSS-4646
|> 		Ultimate Sound		PT46
|> 		Volcano by Stanford (??) AMTP
|> 
|> 
|> 	Well, I went to two places so far, And the only ones that I saw
|> were the MTX (I forget which one) and the JBL. The JBL cost more (of
|> course) but the MTX had a better crossover network. The JBl just had a
|> cap for the tweeter. The MTX comes with a 3 year over the counter
|> warranty (If anything goes wrong, I just go back and get a new one that
|> same day). 	so far it looks like the MTX but do any of you have any
|> comments on the above?


 IMHO, the POLK MM300 and MM4620 are the best on your list. 
 They both will fit a 4x6.  The MM300 has a solid rectangular plate
 with a grill while the MM4620 has a swiss-cheese, oval-shaped plate
 with no grill.

 The PLK MM2200 is not a 4x6, full range speaker.  It's more like a 
 mid-tweeter and high-tweeter combo.  It's freq range is 1750-26k HZ.
 It has a teardrop shape for surface mounting only (?).

 But there's also the  A/D/S/ 200i  speaker plate.

 TRAVIS
From: trw@spl1.spl.loral.com (Tim R Witort)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Help with remote turn on lead for amp...
Date: 16 Dec 92 06:13:44 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Loral Software Productivity Laboratory

In article <BzBIIr.JGz@mentor.cc.purdue.edu>, tpremo@mentor.cc.purdue.edu (Todd Premo) writes:
|> Just a quick question:
|> 
|>       I have a slight problem.  I need remote turn on lead for my 
|> amp and do not know where to get it from other than the unit itself.
|> The factory head unit is being used and is far too confusing to find the
|> power antenna lead.  I have heard of people taking it off the ignition
|> but If I remember correctly this was advised against.
|> 
|>       Where else is a good place to take this from?

   If your have a DC volt meter or can borrow one, it isn't very
hard to find the remote turn-on of a factory stereo.  Just put the
negative probe on the ground lead then find a lead which is "hot"
(+ 12 V) when the head unit is turned on but is dead (0 V) when 
the head unit is off.  Getting the remote turn-on elsewhere may
cause your amp(s) and other remote components to turn on when the
head unit is still off.

-- Tim
From: philw@vice.ICO.TEK.COM (Philip W White)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: what is a "Hi-Tech XA-250S" speaker ?
Date: 19 Dec 92 02:11:12 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Tektronix Inc., Beaverton, Or.


A friend of mine asked me if I could find out the price and/or
power handling capability of a "Hi-Tech XA-250S" car speaker.
Power handling in RMS watts would be most useful, unless it's
well known to everyone that some other watt number is typically used.

He said:

>  [...]  Given the symptoms that we
> witnessed, I have to vote for the stereo blew up the speaker.  If
> they're really cheap speakers it doesn't matter because the stereo is
> under warranty and I can just buy new speakers and I'll be getting value
> for my bucks.  But if they weren't cheap speakers, then I think [the
> retailer] or the stereo manufacturer should be replacing them.
> 
> I've checked in catalogs and can't find the manufacturer, let alone the
> speaker.  The speaker manufacturer is "Hi-Tech" and the model is
> "XA-250S".  The speakers also say "50W max" on them.

Reply to me if you know anything, I will summarize results to the
net if there is any interest (!)
 
thank you
 
      Phil White   Tektronix, Beaverton, OR
USENET:  philip.w.white@tek.COM
 US Mail: Mail Stop 59-432, P.O. Box 500, Beaverton OR 97077-0001
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car,rec.woodworking
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: Fix scratch in CD?
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 19:03:18 GMT

daniel@redwood.ppc.ubc.ca (Daniel Ouellet) writes:
: 				| 
: The recording on a CD, if I remember correctly, is a series of tiny holes that are "read" by a laser
: beam. Remember that there is no physical contact between the CD and the reading head.  Your

True.

: CD mistracks because the digital information on the disk is damaged. Even if you fill the crack,

Not necessarily true. I believe the person stated that the disc would work on
the home system.  It is highly possible to get scratches on the surface that
protects the aluminum substrate. If the scratches are deep enough, they scatter
the light, even though the aluminum is not damaged - the result is a misread.

: you will not restore the missing information. In fact, by doing so, you may even worsen the problem.

See above - the information may not be missing.

: If you can't bear the CD as it is, try filling the crack and let us know what happened, but be aware 
: that you may end up with a CD only good for the garbage can :^)

Try polishing the playing side of the disc (the side opposite the label) with
Turtle Paste Wax. There are a number of people who have posted that they have
been able to repair a damaged disc by doing so.

Bill

Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: mns6569@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Subject: Amps are such a headache! :-)
Reply-To: mns6569@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 15:14:42 GMT

I've been looking for a small amp to power my single 4 Ohm Kicker C-8
sub. I've been thinking along the lines that any 70 - 80 Watt bridged
2 Ohm stable amp should do the trick. It's not the BOOM I'm after, but just 
a bit of a kick (pun intended) in the back, since the box is located behind 
the driver's seat of '85 MR2 (aaah, the joys of being short!)

Anyway, being on a budget, I'm looking mainly at used amps. I want the quality
to be about equal to the rest of the system so far: Concord CD head, Alpine
3513 driving 4" Yamaha's in the dash. Well, there's no space in MR2, no matter
how short one's legs are :-( A possible addition of BA 5.25" in the doors is 
not out of the question, though. On the other hand the wind noisejust kills
everything, and the engine behind you ears is sweet music in itself.

But back to the original topic. I ran accross a few amps that seem to fit my
needs, so I need your opinions. 
1. Kenwood KAC-8020 (not 820). Older amp. I need to know if it's bridgeable and
if it has regular RCA inputs, rather than Kenwoods proprietary connectors.
2. Rockford Fosgate 260sd (apparently 120 Watt bridged) This one I can get new
at a local store for $99 with lifetime labor warranty. I heard a lot of
negative things about Fos, plus this is a new series. I read their installation
manual, and it was uncomprehendable. 
3. Alpine 3513 ($99 new) or 3522 ($119 new) with the same lifetime warranty.
I like my 3513, it's VERY clean, but it does not seem to put out too much
bass ?!

So, the comments on the above amps will be appreciated. Or, if anybody got a
similar amp for sale, let me know. 
On the above prices, they are from a store here in Rochester, NY. I don't feel
like doing advertizing for them, but they seem to be cheaper than most mail
order places. Plus free lifetime warranty (for what it's worth). But maybe
ther's a benefit there after all. If anybody's looking for some equipment.
maybe we can do a sort of group buy. I'll volonteer to do the running around,
UPSing and such, since I'll be unemployed in 8 days :-( :-(
The store carries Alpine, Fos, Sony, Pioneer, JVC and BA.
I have no affiliation with them whatsoever.

Thanks in advance for the coming info (and flames?).
Mike.S
From: jzerden@pro-cynosure.cts.com (Jon Zerden)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: A lot
Date: 21 Dec 1992 00:29:05 -0600
Organization: ProLine [pro-cynosure]
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu

Hello all.. I am new to this news group.. but have been interested and
installing (in my own car) radios for a while.. First off I have for sale:

a JVC KS-RG8 head unit.. this is the top of the line, with built in amp,
detachable face, 2-color illumination etc.. etc.. CD controlls.. I have one
brand new in a box (I have a reciept).. I paid $420.00 I am willing to sell
for $300.00 (i'll pay shipping) .. I am selling it cause my mom bought one
for me for my birthday, which I had already put in..

Also for sale (this one is used) a sherwood XA-1240q amp.. this amp is 50 X
4 and is a great value.. comes with built in fan... I am letting this one
go for $200.00


I am looking for: 
AutoTec 7100XX amp and a JVC full din digital eq.. 

If your willing to buy/sell or trade.. let me know or call me voice at:

410-602-0090 or bepper 410-389-4JON

Jon
Jon Zerden                         Sysop Of Triumvirate BBS
InterNet: JZerden@pro-cynosure.cts.com          410-486-9812
CI$ 73520,167                      Genie: J.Zerden
                FutureNet #1@#11
From: v125p7ae@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (JEFF)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: are alternators too weak for amps?
Date: 12 Dec 92 07:02:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

I have a 1987 Acura Integra.  Recently, I installed a
Bazooka 6 1/2" with built in 40 watt amp (about 3
weeks ago).  Just today, 12/11, my car lights go dim
when the engine was off and needed a jump to get it
started again.  Since, then i noticed that my dash
lights go very dim when at a red light (idling).
When I accelerate again, the lights return to their 
normal brightness.  Is it possible the alternator
isn't strong enough to power the built in amp?
thanx in advance
From: jcg2@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (JASON GIRARD)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Harrison Lab amps
Date: 17 Dec 92 08:46:34 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

I have never heard anything about these amps, but flipping through an issue of
CA&E, their specs struck me.  97% efficient (is this possible?), 2x325 watts,
built-in low-pass crossover at 100 hz, THD of .05, and only $600 list!  Does
anyone have information or experience with these amps?  Thanks,

                                            Jason
-- 
                      Anarchy-it's the only way to live!!!
                               jcg2@lehigh.edu
From: bds2@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (BRAD DEVOR SHALIT)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: a/d/s equipment for sale
Date: 12 Dec 92 21:14:50 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

For Sale:
~~~~~~~~~

a/d/s 642csi crossover
      ac500 bass control

      Includes:
      2- 3' din cables
      1- din-> 6 RCA cable

All serious offers will be considered.

Send mail to bds2@lehigh.edu


      
-- 
________________________________________________________________________
 It is said that Bill Clinton is considering |  Brad Shalit
changing the Democratic Party emblem from a  |  Box D203 UC#29
donkey to a condom, because it stands for    |  Lehigh University
inflation, protects a bunch of pricks, halts |  Bethlehem, Pa. 18015
production, and gives a false sense of       |  1(215)882-9921
security while being screwed.                |  E-Mail: BDS2@LEHIGH.EDU
From: trw@spl1.spl.loral.com (Tim R Witort)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: improved bass performance
Date: 15 Dec 92 20:21:38 GMT
Organization: Loral Software Productivity Laboratory

In article <1992Dec14.164719.3718@schbbs.mot.com>, bstdenis@mailbox.fwrdc.rtsg.mot.com (Brian St. Denis) writes:
|> I have an (one) MTX Road Thunder Pro 12" in the recomended vented box being
|> driven by a 50 watt alpine amp bridged to 100 watts (roughly).  I do not have
|> it crossed over in any way ie. it plays all frequencies.  I am considering
|> getting an MTX electronic crossover.  What type of performance boost should
|> I hear once it is crossed over?  Is there a reason not to get the MTX crossover?
|> Will the bass appear to get "lower" after the cross-over?
|> 
|> Thanks for any advice.  And, if there are any other significant differences in
|> sound performance after crossing it over that I have not asked about, please
|> let me know.

   If you use a low pass crossover on the speaker, you will cut off all of
the frequencies above the range that the speaker was designed to reproduce.
This will make the sound from the speaker much duller, but since it isn't
designed to reproduce high frequencies, there will be much less distortion
because the woofer won't be trying to reproduce high frequencies which it
just can't do.  If you wan't a full range reproduction, you'll need some
high frequency drivers to handle that portion of the audio spectrum - a
12" woofer usually can't reproduce frequencies over 1 or 2 KHz (this varies
from speaker to speaker of course) without introducing distortion.

-- Tim
From: kirk@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Kirk Lindstrom)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 17:59:35 GMT
Subject: Re: Question about Bolt Amps.
Organization: Shredding the water of SF Bay, HP-OCD
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car

For a few bucks more, I bought an rf460sd.

Kirk
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car