HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: ron@topaz.bds.com (Ron Natalie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Power (drywall) screwdivers
Date: 8 Oct 1992 16:06:02 GMT
Organization: BDS Systems
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: topaz.bds.com

> Questions: Do I need 4000rpm?

Need? No.  Appreciate?  Yes.  I've got a Milwaukee with equivelent specs
and I usually drive with the trigger full down.

>           Is the higher amp rating related to torque output?

It's generally been found that the data plate horsepowers and amperages
are not tightly correlated with actual work.

>           What about other manufacturers?

At Home Depot they had an Black and Decker, Milwaukee, and Makitas all
sitting next to each other.  I went for the Milwaukee because the specs
are about the same, and it is a little smaller and lighter than the other
two I looked at (You will be using this thing at arms length, and also
Margy was likely to be driving while I held sheetrock and she's much smaller
than I am).

>    Am I going overboard on this? Should I just get the cheapest drywall
>             screwdriver and leave the other chores to other tools, like a      >         drill?

I have three drill like devices.  I've got the screw gun (for drywall work),
a Makita cordless drill that I use for driving screws and light drilling...
BIG CONVENIENCE, don't know how I got by without the thing, and an old
Craftsman 3/8 VSR that's ages old that I use for anything that I can't use
the Makita for (mostly running large speedbor bits through 4x4's and stuff).

Of course, I'm a tool junky.  I don't buy tools just to have them though, but
will buy a new tool if the project merits it.  Can't figure out how to join
this (Boom buy a plate joiner).  Need to hang a lot of drywall, by the drywall
gun, need to cut some metal fence post (can't find the hacksaw) boom buy the
sawzall...

When Margy told my mother I built the kids a swingset, the first question she
asked is what tool I bought for that project :-).
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Stones used for honing - Question
Date: 16 Oct 92 19:04:33 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA

: tlaughli@star-trek.bbn.com (Tom Laughlin) writes:
: 
: >During the flattening process how many grits should be used coarse, medium,
: >fine and very fine?

I only use coarse and very fine stones. It does not take long for the fine
stone to polish up the scratches from the coarse stone. I would not use
more than 3 grits - it just means you have to do a lot of unnecessary 
work.

: >How long can I expect a diamond stone to last?  It seems that the ability
: >to cut has been reduced since new.

You may want to scrub it with an old toothbrush - it may be getting plugged.

All stones lose a bit of cutting ability after a short bit of usage. This
is expected. The cutting ability will drop to a certain level, and stay
there for the life of the stone.

Many of the synthetic stones recommend that you rub the faces of the
stones together to break down the surface to the working texture.

: >All of my oil stones seem to have lost the ability to cut or scratch.  What is
: >the process to bring them back to the orignal grit?

Well, you may need to use more oil - or none at all. Try taking a card file
to the stones. Scrub at various angles. That may remove glazing or material
that may be plugging the stone.

I use my stones dry. I do scrub them off after I am done using them. I have
no problems with clogging - nor do I have to contend with messy oil.

: >I am willing to invest more $ in a quicker method to achieving a flat surface.
: >Should I spend it on wet stones or diamond stones?

Any stone will work fine, if it is the right grit. Experiment until  you
find something that you like. Do not expect to flatten the average iron
in a couple of minutes - expect to spend 15 minutes to an hour.

You might consider a synthetic stone. I have not had very good luck with
diamond.

Bill
From: smb@ulysses.att.com (Steven Bellovin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: tail vises
Date: 16 Oct 92 00:22:10 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories

In article <1992Oct15.183903.16579@col.hp.com>, mikel@col.hp.com (Mike Lopke) writes:
> The evaluation of these two designs has alot to due with how the bench is
> used and personal preferance.   Of course if you asked Frid he'ld prefer
> his vice.  If you asked Norm, he'ld probably prefer his.  Why is that?
> Here is my guess.
> 
> Norm's vice - quick and simple to build 
> 	      adequate for power tools  
>               nifty design simplification he came up with? 

I think you're missing the point.  Norm's design was, among other things,
something he judged suitable for a project he wanted to build on the
show.  That's a decision based on the time available, both for the vise
and for the supporting structure of the bench, and on what he thinks
he can both teach well, and demonstrate something that he wants to
demonstrate.  It is not, in general, related to his preferred way of
doing things.  (Also, I don't think it's his own design for a vise;
he did base it on commercially-available hardware, as I recall.  But
I've never seen that particular episode; I'm basing my comment on the
book, and on stuff I've seen in the Garret Wade catalog.)
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Planer Recommendations
Date: 15 Oct 92 16:22:17 GMT
Organization: LLNL

In article <2941@ceylon.gte.com>, boykin@gte.com (Joseph Boykin) writes:
> 
> OK, with all the recent talk about *why* to own a planer
> how about a discussion on *which* planer to buy.
> 
> jb
> 
> 

I'll certainly weigh in on this one.  Grizzly has some good stuff and some
not so good stuff.  Their 15" planer is one of the good ones.  Compact,
solid, accurate, and almost no trouble.  From pictures in other catalogs,
there are other outfits selling the same, or almost the same machine.
I can't speak to those machines, but since I do have the Grizzly, I can
recommend it.

G.
From: jrdailey@cbnewse.cb.att.com (j.rex.dailey)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Expanding Collet Chuck for Lathe
Date: 7 Oct 92 23:25:38 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: AT&T

From article <BvCz2E.1yp@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu>, by wilkr@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (richard wilk):
> I am a beginner on the wood lathe, and have been reading every
> book I can get my hands on. I have a 3-jaw chuck and a couple
> of faceplates, but am unhappy with the limitations of the
> 3-jaw for faceplate work. It either puts indentations in the
> foot of the piece, or it requires too large an indentation in
> the base. Sometimes it lets go on softer woods, and I don't like
> getting bopped in the face with my bowl - even with a face guard
> which I wear religiously.
> 
> In all of Richard Raffan's books, and many of the others
> I have, the optimum chuck seems to be the collet (sp?) chuck,
> with a ring that clamps effectively with a narrow indentation
> in the base of the workpiece. I have looked in every catalog
> I can find - including woodturners' supply in Utah, which
> seems to have a lot of expensive stuff, including a cole
> chuck that runs more than $200 for the whole set.
> 
> What I want to know is, where the %$&^#@ can I buy
> this miracle collet chuck which the books say will solve
> my problems? And can it be had for less than a prince's
> ransom?
> 
> 
> -- 
> Richard Wilk                             Anthropology Dept.
> wilkr@iubacs                             Indiana University
> voice 812-855-8162                       Bloomington, IN 47405
> "Things are more like they are now than they've ever been before."

Richard,

I bought the Nova Chuck from Craft Supplies in Provo, Utah and am
thrilled with it.  Yes, it does cost quite a bit (~$160), but I do
like it alot.  I mount my bowl blank to the woodworm screw to turn the
outside of my bowl and then turn it around and mount the dovetail
expanding collet in the dovetail recess I turned into the foot of the
bowl and turn the inside.

WORKS GREAT!

BTW, I waited for THREE YEARS before I could rationalize buying this
chuck because of the high price.  Well, I still couldn't justify
buying it, but am glad now that I did.

Rex Dailey
jrdailey @ cbnewse.cb.att.com
From: tlaughli@star-trek.bbn.com (Tom Laughlin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Stones used for honing - Question
Date: 16 Oct 1992 13:16:36 GMT
NNTP-Posting-Host: archive.bbn.com


Working with hand tools is new to me.  The process of flattening the back side
of chisels and plane blades is a lengthy one, at least for me anyway.  I very
pleased with the results once done but I'd very much like to reduce the time
to get there.

What I'd like to get from the newgroup is a summary of the types of
stones offered.  To date I know of 4 - oil, wet, diamond and ceramic.

I have 4 stones - 3 oil and 1 diamond.  My oil stones are medium, fine and
very fine.  Don't know the grits off hand.  My diamond stone is medium.

During the flattening process how many grits should be used coarse, medium,
fine and very fine?

How long can I expect a diamond stone to last?  It seems that the ability
to cut has been reduced since new.

All of my oil stones seem to have lost the ability to cut or scratch.  What is
the process to bring them back to the orignal grit?

I am willing to invest more $ in a quicker method to achieving a flat surface.
Should I spend it on wet stones or diamond stones?

I requested I'll post the results.

Tom Laughlin (tlaughli@mystery.bbn.com)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
X-Mailer: ELM [version 2.2 PL0]
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 13 Oct 1992 16:12:49 PDT
From:         "Jim Johnson 7-9535 (6518 TS/EN)" <jjohnson@EDWARDS-SCY.AF.MIL>
Subject:      Re: Table saw blade guard usage
              at Oct 13, 92 6:50 pm

      I did not leave the guard off because I was afraid of being called a
      sissy.  The blade guard makes it harder for me to see the cut and I
      felt (maybe incorrectly) that this was worse.  Also the fact that I
      seem to have to lift the guard to start the cut made the guard
      inconveient to use.  I think leaving the splitter and kickback pawls
      while removing the plastic guard is a good idea and one that I did not
      think off.  Might try that this weekend.

      James Johnson
      Standard Disclaimer
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta contractor's saw
Date: 8 Oct 92 18:02:16 GMT
Distribution: rec.woodworking
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

In article <1992Oct7.164518.12242@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com> billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com 
(bill nelson) writes:
>mfb@metropolis.super.org (Michael F. Bridgland) writes:
>: 
>: The saw is now assembled, and generally is satisfactory. The Jet-Lock
>: fence is a bad joke, but that came as no surprise, because of what
>: others have written about it. Adjustments to the saw itself are
>: simple, with two exceptions. The blade guard adjustment is just plain
>: clumsy. And the manual does not explain how to align the blade
>: to the table slots.  Supposedly this was done at the factory, but the
>: blade is not parallel to the slots. Casual measurement reveals a
>: difference of several thousandths of an inch (perhaps as much as
>: .01'', but I haven't measured carefully yet) between the blade-to-slot
>: distances at the front and back of the blade.
>
>I doubt seriously if you need better alignment that with .01". It
>certainly would be a matter of trial and error to do much better.
>
>Bill


I'd agree with this sentiment.  For that matter, are you sure that it is the
saw and not the blade that is out (i.e. the blade may have a bend to it)?
I have the same saw (bought it at the same place, too) and have had no
problems with blade alignment, as far as the work I've produced goes (I've
never checked the blade alignment).

I do not use the blade guard (does anyone?).  The Jet-lock fence works a bit
better if you keep the rails lubricated in some way (I use Simonize).

Dave

-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
The heart and the mind on a parallel course, never the two shall meet.
						-E. Saliers
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Protecting a table saw
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: usa
Date: Sat, 10 Oct 92 03:22:35 GMT
Keywords: table saw

In article <1992Oct9.192937.15183@sactoh0.sac.ca.us> jhp@sactoh0.sac.ca.us (Jim H. Puga) writes:
>I have my table saw in the garage.  Since I don't think I will be
>using it much during the winter months, I was curious as to how
>you folks stored your saws.  

Well, I just shiver while I work myself.

>Can I just cover it with a blanket or something and be done with
>it?

Yep, just don't cover it with something non-permiable (like a plastic
tarp). Condensation will build up under it and rust the whole thing out.
Something cloth along the lines of furniture covers or sheets would be
best. I'd avoid anything heavy, like a blanket, because it wouldn't
dry if it did get wet.

>How do you guard against rust?

I use WD-40 wet with 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper. If I were to store a
unit, I'd spray it with WD-40 and let it drip dry. Wax has been frequently
suggested and is another good solution. My favorite is "Butcher's" paste
wax formula for bowling alleys. I use it for oil/wax finishes (ok - I'm
a masochist), and it's excellent. Just don't try to rub it down by hand
after it dries!

patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | No city is large enough to support one lawyer
                    | No town is too small to support two.
                    |                        Samuel Clemens
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: simnet@ssc-vax.boeing.com (Mark R Poulson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Workbench Dogs -- what for?
Keywords: dog dowels workbench
Date: 9 Oct 92 00:05:12 GMT
Organization: Boeing Defense and Space Group, Seattle WA

I've heard of and seen workbenches with rows of holes in them which dowels
are placed. These dowels are about an inch in diameter, two or three inches
long, and someone called these things "dogs". What can you do with this
(it seemed like a woodworkers bench that I was looking at)? Any ideas?

	Thanks,
	   Mark on
	   simnet@ssc-bee.boeing.com
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 13 Oct 1992 11:28:05 -0500
From:         Jeff Roberts <JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: furniture-making
              12 Oct 1992 03:20:19 -0500 from <bulwinkl@STEIN.U.WASHINGTON.EDU>

On Mon, 12 Oct 1992 03:20:19 -0500 Lise Knox-Seith said:
>
> Well I'll tell you how I did it:
> My wife and I have been making and selling furniture for about 3 years now.
> We specialize in southwestern/ranch style furniture and decoratives.  The
> latest piece (cabinet) we did for a customer had to include hand carving
  or no sale.  I talked this over with him and agreed that I could do the
  work even though I had never carved before.  My house is loaded with stuff
  we've made which enabled him to get a feel for our capabilities and he felt
  we probably could do the work with my assurances.  I talked to an aquaintance
  who was experienced in carving and got a basic tools list and asked lots of
  questions on sharpening.  My basic set was from Freud (6 piece, $80.00) and
  I picked up some sharpening implements....you sharpen constantly while you
  work.  My approach was to make a couple practive runs on scrap and then
  go to the real thing which I did, there were also some areas that had to
  be quite deep so I used a router and "V" bit to hog out most of the wood.
  My approach was to go slow and take a litte at a time with the chisels, I
  also used one of those lamps that has a magnifying glass in the middle
  clamped to the work bench...I found this to be very helpful.  Well my
  customer is taking delivery on the cabinet within the next week or so and
  my wife and I very pleased with the cabinet overall and especially the
  carving.  I learned alot simply by do it and also learned that it took about
  twice as long as expected....probably due to inexperience.  I can tell
  already that we'll be doing alot more carving from now on.

  In regard to the class, regardless of style, I think it will be a big plus
  for you to take it.  They will probably teach you much that you would have
  to learn on your own....good luck.

Jeff Roberts JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: M21605@mwvm.mitre.org
Subject: Re: Band saw riser blocks
Organization: The MITRE Corporation, McLean VA 22102
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 18:20:55 GMT

In article <01GPQWE9PYR68Y4XLS@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM>
RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM writes:
 
>
>I've just gotten a new 14" bandsaw (taiwanese knock off of delta). I'm
>wondering if I should get a riser block for it (extension to frame that
>increases maximum thickness of cut).
>
>I've got several applications where resewing 10" wide stock would be useful;
>but, I don't know what disadvantages a riser block imposes.
>
>Do they work well. Do they impact the accuracy or life of the saw. Will I
>install it permanently or switch it in and out. Do I want 2 sets of blades
>(long and short) or will one set of long blades be enough?
>
>                            Thanks
>
>                                Ron
>
>                                         (all opinions my own)
    I leave the riser block installed all the time on my Delta and I would
not be without it.  It does require an extra degree of precision and care
to get good results with the riser block installed, especially with a deep
cut.  For this reason I would not recommend one be installed on a Taiwanese
machine.  The tolerances on these machines are so lax, and the adjustment
mechanism so coarse, that you would only be frustrated trying to get good
results.  You will have enough trouble just using this machine in the stock
configuration.  The location of the lower blade guides on the Taiwanese
machines is too far below the table to be acceptable.  Likewise the adjust-
ment is so crude that the blade is never quite adjusted right.  Also, the
additional height of the riser block tends to magnify the innaccurate
machining on these machines, causing more problems.  Even with a
Delta, there are a few tricks required to resaw wide boards with good
results.  If there is interest, I will post something on this later.
Cheers!
 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: Tablesaws and their warranties (correction)
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 16:10:35 GMT

I wrote:
> BTW, the original poster mentioned AMT's 10 year warranty. My recollection
> may be wrong, but I believe that all AMT is warranting is that they
> will keep parts in stock for 10 years - not that they will replace for
> free parts that break within 10 years of purchase.

Well, a new AMT catalog just arrived. I was wrong, and I apologize. At
the bottom of every odd-numbered page is written:

"If within TEN YEARS of date of purchase your AMT power tool becomes
inoperative due to a defect in any part or parts (except for motors,
which are warrented for one year) - just return it to our factory,
freight prepaid, and we will repair or replace it FREE OF CHARGE."

Seems like a good warranty. Perhaps I'm reading into it too much,
but what about a defect that doesn't make the machine become 
inoperative - it only makes it work poorly or with less safety - 
is that still covered? Not by the letter of the warranty, perhaps
the spirit.

There's more. On page two is written:

"* Service parts are normally furnished free of charge unless they are
'wear out' type parts such as bearings, belts, blades, bandsaw tires, etc.
Understandably, we do charge for these."

As many of you know, I'm not a big fan of Grizzly's products or hype. It 
appears that the "double-speak" disease of Mr. Balolia has been caught by
other Taiwanese machine distributors, such as AMT. AMT's warranty description
clearly says "any part or parts (except for motors..." on every other
page, yet the text on page 2 excludes a number of parts. Does this
disclaimer mean that "wear-out" type parts have no warranty at all?


Finally, AMT is pulling the Grizzly "parts of our machines only" gag.
If you want to order parts from AMT you need "some sort of proof of 
purchase - even a photo of the machine itself will do..."

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
"And remember this - there's no more important safety rule that to wear
these: safety glasses."
From: joeld@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Joel Dunsmore)
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 06:02:41 GMT
Subject: Re: Best wood for windows?
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Rosa, CA
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

Pine and Fir are very subject to dry rot.  I would use redwood, you 
may want to use cedar.  I replace at least 10 peices of pine trim on
my 10 year old house during painting this summer, due to dry rot.  I
used finger jointed clear redwood, oil primed on all sides, an I
expect that it will last.

Joeld
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: millios@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (william.l.millios)
Subject: That damn plane
Organization: AT&T
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 19:34:38 GMT

Well, I finally got around to working on those old hand planes
that have been sitting in the basement since my grandfather died.
(Let's see, that was *at least* 18 years ago.)

I ordered the replacement blades from Hock, ordered the full waterstone
set from a mail order house, and found some free time.

First, polish the back of the blade.  Hmm.  After an hour, I notice that
the deepest machining marks (which happen to be in the center of the
blade) are not coming out.  I move to a wet-dry sandpaper (I had been
on the 800 waterstone), and after a couple of minutes, it's better, but
not by much.  I go for a while ...  finally give up on the very deep
scratches...  Running out of elbow grease and patience.

So, I take the blade up through the grits ... 800, 1200, and the 6000
waterstone.  Wow, nice shine, except for those scratches.  I could
shave using this as a mirror.

Now, to work on the bevel.  First problem is how to get the little
jig thingie on the blade perfectly perpendicular, since there isn't
really a reference edge that I can use.  Hmm.  Do my best.  I take
the blade up through the various grits again, get a nice mirror shine
on that bevel.  Microbevel, according to instructions.

Whew, finally time to strap it into the plane.

Oh, did I mention I'd already spent about 10 hours on the plane itself?
The thing had been kind of in bad shape - cleaned it off, trued the sole
on wet-dry sandpaper attached to glass with spray adhesive, etc.

Note: This plane is apparently a Stanley lookalike; there is no name
on the plane itself (which I found strange) - the only marking is
"Made in USA".  Patriotic, but not very informative.

So, I fit the blade in, and try to fiddle the various knobs, slides,
and so forth.  Golly, but that thing is finicky.  A little movement
goes a long way.

I still am having a couple of problems:

1) there isn't much room at the throat for the shavings to come through,
an occasionally, it gets stopped up by a shaving that's a little thicker.

2) There isn't much difference between "shaving" and "stopped up"; should
I open the throat just a tad with a file?

3) This thing seems to take more effort than I had envisioned.  The
blade is pretty sharp - should I put something on the sole to let it
slide easier?

4) the plane seems to leave a lot of "sidelines" where the blade went...
How can I avoid these?

Any other tips greatly appreciated.

Oh yeah:

5) The handle wobbles a bit - which doesn't help for stability - any
ideas on how to get that to fit better, without having to epoxy it to
the base?  (Wood handle - cherry colored)

Bill Millios