HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: mfleet@memstvx1.memst.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: drawknife use
Date: 31 Dec 92 12:06:55 -0600
Distribution: na
Organization: Memphis State University

In article <7732@dove.nist.gov>, wack@ariel.ncsl.nist.gov (John Wack) writes:
> 
> I'm making a Frank Lloyd Wright-inspired sofa table and, for a more
> contemporary look, am going to scallop the stiles that adorn the
> ends and mid-point of the table.  In other words, the stiles are
> about 1 x 2 x 18 and I'm going to make them concave along one 1 x 18
> dimension.  To do this, my brother, who's an accomplished woodcarver
> but who's just moved to CA far from here, recommends using a drawknife.
> (I should mention that I don't have a bandsaw, but could use a 
> friend's).

*** I agree with you as you state below that quietly using a drawknive is more
appealing than more power tools.  I use both however.  For a beginner.
I would recommend using a spokeshave rather than a drawknife.  A drawknife
has an open blade, and is difficult to control.  A spokeshave has a throat
similar to a plane, and because it is closed, is much easier to control.
There are two types of spokeshave .. actually more, but for this disscussion,
there are two ... Flat bottomed, and round bottomed.  The flat bottomed one
is used onflat materials, such as longer, stright parts of spokes, or chair
legs, etc.  The round bottomed one is used for concave curves such as you 
describe.  The blade is honed to a razor sharpness, and set in the body
of the spokeshave with a very fine clearance, so only a small shaving is
taken.  The spokeshave is generally used at a slight to moderate angle to
the direction of travel across the woorkpiece.  Some users pull the spokeshave,
others push.  If you can find a furniture maker, or old craftsman, or 
someone interested in using old tools in your area, most are happy to
help someone learn about hand tools.  Practice on a scrap piece or two first,
then go to it!  

Marrin  Fleet
Memphis State University
Memphis, TN







f.  
> 
> I've never used one and my brother, to whom woodcarving comes easy,
> has been known to do things, imho, the hard way but gets excellent
> results.  He recommends buying a small drawknife (about $30) and 
> cleaning up the stiles with my drill press and a sanding drum.  Can 
> anyone out there with experience comment on whether a drawknife would 
> be worthwhile on this project and, how to use a drawknife?  The table 
> has only 8 stiles and the scallops shouldn't be too deep.  The idea of
> sitting quietly using a drawknife is more appealing to me these days 
> than using more power tools. 
> 
> Any advice much appreciated,
> John Wack
> 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: davidb@hpmcaa.mcm.hp.com.mcm.hp.com (David Burton)
Subject: Re: Dricote
Organization: HP Cardiology Business Unit - McMinnville, OR
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL7]
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1992 21:11:59 GMT

Stavros Macrakis (macrakis@osf.org) wrote:
: Dricote is a product often recommended for lubricating table saw tops
: and the like.  What is its generic name (e.g. silicone lubricant?
: aerosol teflon?), and are there cheaper versions of it?
: 



	I use Kity Speed past from a can and like it. Far more
	economical than the spray stuff.

	Dvaid Burton
From: roy_williams
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: INCA 10 inch band saw
Date: 29 Dec 1992 22:06:47 GMT
Organization: CCSF Caltech, Pasadena, CA
Distribution: world
Reply-To: roy@ccsf.caltech.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: willow.ccsf.caltech.edu

In article Iq0@boi.hp.com, stevej@boi.hp.com (Steve Johnson) writes:
>I am interested in hearing from owners of the INCA band saw. After hearing the
>rave reviews posted here and in several mags, I ordered one as a Christmas 
>present. So far I am underwhelmed, but I must say that I have only made a few
>trial cuts. Specifically:
>
>The person who took my order by phone did not speak very good english
>The saw was dumped in my driveway Christmas eve. I still do not know who
>delivered it. (Santa??)
>The box was damaged
>The manual sucks! This is the most expensive tool I have ordered and the manual
>is thinner than any I have purchased.
>The "bonus plans for a sturdy mounting stand" turned out to be a bad photocopy
>of a plan for a 24" high sttol written in german.
>I did not get the fence micro-adjuster or the cool blocks I was supposed to get.
>The "balance a nickel on on edge on the table while running" test seems like
>a joke. 
>Will someone who has this saw please reassure me!!
>
Sounds like the problem is with your supplier and not with Inca. I got mine
a few weeks ago from Eagle Tools in Pasadena, CA. The sales person spent an hour
teaching me setup and safety. I got the cool blocks, 2 blades and a book about
bandsaws which is much better than the very thin manual supplied by Inca. I didn't
make the mounting stand, but if I did it wouldn't be from their design.

I haven't tried the trick with the nickel, but it can do both heavy and delicate
work:
1. Resawing 4 inch cherry to make really rather smooth and flat 1/8" veneer.
2. Tight cuts with a 1/16" blade with tiny bits of wood, for model making. Just
like a scroll saw but stronger.

When the thingummy with bearings that holds the blade moves up and down, the
blade seems to stay aligned.

The direct drive makes it quieter than my friend's bandsaw, and I suppose is the
basis of the claim about standing up coins.




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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 29 Dec 1992 08:50:00 EST
From:         HUNTRESS GARY B <HUNTRESS@NPT.NUSC.NAVY.MIL>
Subject:      Antique planes

Hi,

Among my christmas gifts this year were two antique wooden planes.
My brother (thanks Dave!) lives in rural New Hampshire and has
apparently found quite a supply of old tools.

The bigger plane is a 22" x 4" x 4" beauty with an interesting
wooden wedge holding the cutter in place (it looks like the front
of a fork thats missing the two center tines, if that makes any
sense).  The front of the plane has several small stamped
markings, an arc at the top center "UNION FACTORY", "warranty";
below that is "H. CHAPIN" and then a bunch stamped "Griswold".

The second plane is, I think, a molding plane.  The body is a 2x4
on edge with a 5" wide adjustable base plate.  There are forward
and rear handles on each side and two adjusting screws on the top.
The front of this plane also has markings: "P.H. MANCHESTER" and
"R. LEE".

Questions:

1) Was it customary for owners to stamp their name into their
tools?  Chapin, Manchester, and Lee certainly don't seem like
model names to me ;-)

2) Has anyone ever heard of Union Factory planes?  I'd like to get
some background about the company, location, dates, etc.  This
plane is a beauty, there's hardly a mark on it.


Thanks,

Gary Huntress
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 28 Dec 1992 13:22:01 EST
From:         Doug Cutler <UNCDWC@UNCVM1.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Problem with Ryobi Belt Sander

  I have the same sander and the same problem, I suggest that you look at the
tracking adjustment very carefully and see if the screw moves as the sander
is running.  That is what is happening to mine and I am going to get some
of the sticky gunck to tighten up the threads, don't want to lock the totally
so I won't use one of the "unremovable" Locktites.  Till then I have a very
thin piece of paper in the threads.


  Doug. Cutler                       Office of Information Technology,
  VM Systems Programmer              University of North Carolina.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: Nick_Janow@mindlink.bc.ca (Nick Janow)
Subject: Re: drawknife use
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 23:20:42 GMT

wack@ariel.ncsl.nist.gov (John Wack) writes:

> He recommends buying a small drawknife (about $30) and cleaning up the
> stiles with my drill press and a sanding drum.

I agree with the use of a drawknife (or better yet--a spokeshave), but I
disagree with "cleaning up" with a sander afterwards.  Cleanly sliced wood
looks so much nicer than scratched wood.  You'd only need to consider sanding
if the grain was wild and the spokeshave tore the wood (and even then a
scraper might work).

A spokeshave is inexpensive, reasonably available in second-hand stores and
garage sales, and useful to have around.

A drawknife is better for some things, and with enough practice, could be
just as accurate as a spokeshave.  However, are you really going to do
spokeshave work frequently enough to build and maintain the skill required to
use it effectively?

--

Nick_Janow@mindlink.bc.ca
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: asket@acad2.alaska.edu
Subject: Rainforest Destruction
Organization: University of Alaska
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 02:33:42 GMT

     This thread may be slipping away from woodworking per se, and more
toward general resource management or politics, but for what it's worth,
one of my fellow students in the public policy grad program here at
the University of Alaska did a forest management study (FM is big up
here) with a global view.  While it does vary from country to country,
the original writer is correct, overall, the great majority of exotic
wood is burned down, not logged.  
     Even more tragically, he pointed out that in many countries where
export bans have been imposed, the rural population now simply burns
down the timber because they can no longer export it, so export bans
don't always accomplish what they intended.  
     Personally, as a woodworker and a human, I would much rather see
a tree turned into a treasured piece of fine furniture, than burned
to ashes as an indirect, unintended result of an export ban.  This is
indeed a difficult issue.  The ultimate conclusion of my colleage's
research was that the only way this is going to stop is to give the 
local population the education and economic base to think long term,
        Karl Thoennes
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ameres@ithaca.cat.rpi.edu (Eric Ameres)
Subject: brands/flavors of laquer
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy NY
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 13:58:59 GMT

rec.ww'ers,

In the never (seemingly) ending saga of my kitchen cabinets
(construction is going well, thank you for asking), I've reached the
point where I better get/order the finishing materials soon (joy!).
I'm completely sold on a clear satin lacquer finish (I've also
abandoned the pickling idea and am going with the natural red oak).
I've seen a couple of brands of laquer (and lacquer type) finishes and
wanted to find out what people are using, and how happy they are with
it.

Some contenders:

Deft (?)
Behlen Qualalacq (solvent based)
Hydrocote Clear Finish (water based)
Water-based lacquer brand from woodworkers supply (previously from JB
Moser's Woodfinisher's supply ?)

I am leaning toward the water based lacquers for health and safety
reasons (no, I don't have a spray booth, yet).  I do have an hvlp
sprayer though.  I am also looking for advice on a (paste ?) filler
and sanding sealer to use with the oak and the aforementioned lacquer.

The description of the Woodworker's Supply brand in their catalog
seems to sum up what I am looking for in a water-based laquer (brand
specific comments are in parentheses) (reprinted from Woodworker's
supply catolog w/o permission):

Non-flammable, low-odor, durable, minimal toxicity, VOC compliant,
non-yellowing, alcohol, moisture and heat resistant (and unsurpassed
by any other water based finish).  Dries fast and cleans up with
water.  May be sprayed, brushed, dipped, applied with HVLP units,
reduces with water, is self leveling, (and goes further than other
water based products).

Eric.

-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Eric Ameres,  Software Engineer                 ameres@cat.rpi.edu
New York State Center for Advanced Technology in Automation & Robotics
Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute - CII 8313, Troy, NY 12180-3590
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stevep@sparky.se.hou.compaq.com (Steve Pinn)
Subject: Re: brands/flavors of laquer
Organization: Compaq Computer Corporation
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 23:11:30 GMT

In article <#0s2pc-@rpi.edu>, ameres@ithaca.cat.rpi.edu (Eric Ameres) writes:
|> In Article 16843, stevep@sparky.se.hou.compaq.com (Steve Pinn) wrote:
|> 
|> >Eric, I have been using Hydrocoat for just over a year with conventional
|> >spray equipment with good success.  I understand that it even works better
|> >with the proper HVLP equipment.  I have used their Poly, Top Coat and Dual
|> >Purpose finishes.  The one that I have had the least problem with and best
|> >result is their Dual Purpose.  The same product is used as a sanding sealer
|> >and top coat, it does not finish hazy and applies easily.  As with all
|> >Hydrocoat products you can add a hardner which will increase the finish
|> >hardness significantly.  The hardner will not cause the lacquer in your
|> >gun to polymerize like a catalytic finish but instead will evaporate
|> >in a bout 24 hrs and the product reverts to its original hardness.
|> 
|> Thanks for the response
|> 
|> I am a bit confused though.  The Hydrocote products in the
|> Woodworker's Supply catalog are: Polyurethane (normal poly),
|> Polyshield (exterior poly), Sanding Sealer, Flowout Additive, Reducer,
|> and Clear Finish (waterbased lacquer-ish type).
|> 
|> I'm getting very confused over what's what within the Hydrocote line.
|> Is the Dual Purpose the same as the Polyshield?  They mention it
|> doesn't require a sealer.  Is the Top Coat the same as the Clear
|> Finish?
|> 
|> Thanks for the help.
|
Eric, Hydrocoat makes a line of water based finishing products, from
stains to fillers to top coats.  I would suggest that you call a
Hydrocoat distributor to get their catalog.  The company I use
is J.M. Rogers in Kerrville Texas 800-828-6327 and talk to Joe 
Rogers.  He may put you on to someone in your geographic area.

I have found Joe to be an extremely helpful and knowledgable
source of information on Hydrocoat product (even though I
only buy a couple of gallons a year)

Hope this helps - Steve
From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1992 17:54:42 GMT
Subject: Re: question about transporting a Delta Unisaw
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

parnass@cbnewse.cb.att.com (Bob Parnass, AJ9S) writes:
>
>If you disassembled a Delta Unisaw, how heavy would the heaviest
>module be?
>
>I've been thinking about buying a Unisaw but dread the
>thought of trying to carry it down to the basement (with
>my wife's help).
>
>We've managed to carry down other big power tools but none of
>them were as heavy as a Unisaw (400+ lobs).  In the past,
>we disassembled the tools in my pickup truck and brought them
>downstairs piece by piece.
>
>I'm concerned that the cast iron top is too heavy
>----------

   In 1973, I moved a Xerox Copier down to a basement with two other
   men.   I was in college at the time.   Remember what Xerox copiers
   looked like in 1973?  This one probably weight nearly a ton.

   When you make a move like this, think about it.   Get a dolly from your
   local rental outfit, lay the box on top of the dolly, and get some big
   straps (they usually come with the dolly) and have your wife and a 
   cousin hold the straps from above.   You get below the machine and
   get your shoulders against it.  Then CAREFULLY slide it down the stairs
   allowing the wheels of the dolly to lever the machine over the steps.
   Take it one step at a time.  There is no reason to hurry.

   If you take your time, think about it, and go slowly, it won't be
   too hard.

   Be sure to have two people above holding the straps.  Also, if there is
   anything to take a turn on the straps with, this helps.   A pillar, or
   even a doorknob will work.  Allow the strap to angle around this to
   help lower the machine slowly.
  
 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stevenj@microsoft.com (Steven Johnson)
Subject: Grizzly jointer/planer
Date: 28 Dec 92 17:29:00 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp.
Keywords: grizzly jointer planer

I'd like to hear feedback/opinions from people who have used/owned/seen
the Grizzly 8" jointer and/or the Grizzly 20" planer.  Are these heavy-duty,
accurate machines?  How much mechanical tinkering was involved with 
making them work accurately.  Can the jointer tables be adjusted in
fine increments?  What is changing the blades like?  

I'm trying to decide between the combination of these machines or buying 
a more expensive jointer/planer combination machine such as the
Inca or Robland.  If people have had good luck and good results with
the Grizzly's I'll go with them to save money.  But I don't want to
end up spending all my project time on adjustments/repairs, so if
you've had to struggle with these machines I'd rather go with the
combination machine.

Please send me your feedback or post it here.  Thanks.


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: walt@eng.clemson.edu (Walter B. Ligon III)
Subject: Re: making mortises
Reply-To: walt@eng.clemson.edu
Organization: College of Engineering, Clemson Univ.
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1992 15:49:07 GMT

In article 16624@rtsg.mot.com, mehrpuya@rtsg.mot.com (Djamschid Mehrpuyan) writes:
>
>To make mortises is it better to use a drill press with a
>mortising bit or a plunge router with a mortising bit ?
>
>Who makes the best drill presses ?
>
>     -DJ


To make mortises it is better to use whatever you have available, ranging from
hand drill and chisel ( or just a chisel for that matter ) to a specialized
moritsing machine.  If you are considering purchasing a tool, I'd ask these
questions:

1)  how often will you be making mortises?

2)  how many mortises are you going to make at one time?

3)  will they be blind mortises, or through mortises?

4)  what other tools do you need in your shop?

5)  how much are you willing to spend?

If you make a couple of mortises every now and then, and they are blind mortises,
then you have alot of options, and a router is a pretty good way to go.  Maybe build
a router table.  But really, the old drill and chisel method is probably faster and
just as good.

If you regularly make lots of mortises and they are through mortises, then a
dedicated mortising machine might be in order (if you can afford $500 or so for it).

I use a mortising attachment on my drill press.  It takes alot to set it up, but once
that is done, you can make alot of very precise mortises - especially the through
variety - so it is good for making lots at one time, but takes too long for one or
two, especially if they are going to be blind anyway.

If you are going to buy a drill press, The Delta 16 inch is a good as any and at
a reasonable price.  I have a very similar Jet.  Be ware of rock-bottom prices,
unless you can look before you buy.  Catalog pictures can fool you!  Also, remember,
mortising may require precision not afforded by rock-bottom prices.

Walt
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: Cabinet saws... what are they?
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1992 00:28:35 GMT

Tony Poyner writes
> I thought the major difference is that cabinet saws support the arbor 
> assembly by attaching it to the base of the saw, and the table bolts 
> on top.  As opposed to a contractor's saw where the arbor assembly
> is attached to and is supported by the table. 

Nope. All saws I've looked closely at, cabinet or otherwise, bolt the
carriage directly to the table.

What would the advantage be of bolting the arbor carriage to the base
instead of the top?  An important criteria is the relationship of the 
blade to the table, so it makes sense to bolt the the carriage that 
supports the blade directly to the table. Going through an intermediatary
like a sheet metal enclosure would only lead to problems.

What cabinet saws have you seen that don't bolt the carriage to the
table?

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
From: krader@sequent.com (Kurtis D. Rader)
Subject: Re: SmartLevel (need info)
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems, Inc.
Distribution: world,local
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 92 18:49:16 GMT

ebs@lilly.com (Eric B. Stauffer) writes:

>I am thinking about buying my brother a SmartLevel for his birthday in 
>February. Anyone have any experience with them? How much do they 
>cost?		

I've owned the Pro SmartLevel for about 6 months and love it.  Using
my precision ground engineering square to test it's accuracy leads
me to believe it really is accurate to 1/10 of a degree.  Doing side
by side tests with my old bubble level was also illuminating.  Using
the bubble level I could consistently do no better than plus or minus
one/half degree from level.  This translates to a trifle less than a
1/8 inch vertical rise per horizontal foot.  Not bad perhaps, but
might be a problem, for example, when installing base cabinets.
-- 
Kurtis D. Rader, Technical Support Engineer    voice:    800/854-9969
NAOTS, Sequent Computer Systems                fax:      503/578-5453
15450 SW Koll Parkway, M/S WIL1-501            UUCP:     ...uunet!sequent!krader
Beaverton, OR  97006-6063                      internet: krader@sequent.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: doshay@ursa.arc.nasa.gov (David Doshay)
Subject: Re: SmartLevel (need info)
Organization: NASA-Ames Biocomputation Center
Distribution: world,local
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 20:30:58 GMT

I have one and it does what it is supposed to do, if you reset it
when needed. Resetting can be done 2 ways, fast (which is) or
really fancy (which takes less than 5 minutes).

There are 2 versions, one with a fixed 2 foot length and another
that can be put into bars up to --long-

The one that goes into many bars cost more and has 0.1 deg accuracy
the other 0.2 deg.

David		doshay@soma.arc.nasa.gov

The thought police insist I tell you:
my thoughts, not NASA's
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: scot@fc.hp.com (Scot Heath)
Subject: Re: Power Miter Box Safety Warning
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 20:57:22 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Fort Collins Site
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.8 PL6]

To Bill,

It is apparent that I have personally offended you.  For this I am sorry.

The spirit of my post was one of "pay attention and be careful", I stand
by that.

-Scot
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: Problem with Ryobi Belt Sander
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 20:13:38 GMT

Daniel Schlissel writes
> I have a Ryobi 3"x21" belt sander (model# BE-321)which is developing an
> annoying problem.  Lately, the belts start moving off (not completely) the
> the sander when in use.  I've tried new belts, but they do the same thing.

Check the two 3" wide rollers that support and drive the belt, they may be 
coated with crud. Usually, the non-drive roller is crowned which helps keep
the belt centered on it - any crud on the roller may interfere with this
action.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stevep@sparky.se.hou.compaq.com (Steve Pinn)
Subject: Re: [Frank Bateman USAEPG: RE: microwave wood?]
Organization: Compaq Computer Corporation
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 21:33:38 GMT

In article <9212231309.aa05105@BRL-VGR.APG-EMH5.APG.ARMY.MIL>,         Frank Bateman USAEPG <dbatema@APG-EMH5.APG.ARMY.MIL> writes:
|> ----- Forwarded message # 1:
|> 
|> Date:     Wed, 23 Dec 92 13:07:55 EST
|> From:     Frank Bateman USAEPG  <dbatema@apg-emh5.apg.army.mil>
|> To:       WOODWOR.BITNET@pucc.Princeton.EDU
|> Subject:  RE:  microwave wood?
|> 
|> I've used the technique successsfully several times.  I "cook" the
|> wood on medium for short periods, say, 2 minutes, and then let the
|> wood cool a bit before repeating.  I have had some minor scorching,
|> but that's all.  The reason is:  I WATCH THE PROCESS.  Be prepared
|> to hit the STOP switch if you see or smell smoke.
|> 
|> Experiment!
|>
I use a similiar method for biscuits.  In Houston our humidity levels are 
high that biscuits tend to swell on their own.  I microwave a handful
on high for about a minute and the work like a champ. - Steve
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