HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: cs92mjd@cen.ex.ac.uk (M.J.Davis)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: building my own bar-ends
Date: 15 Nov 92 14:38:29 GMT
	<1992Nov13.225159.29784@leland.Stanford.EDU>
Organization: Computer Unit. - University of Exeter. UK


I have a feeling you may be talking at cross-purposes here. I think the 
original posting was about MTB handlebar extensions, and the reply was about
road bike bar-end _shifters_. So not terribly helpful :-) I've noticed this
sort of thing before. Might it be an idea to specify 'MTB' or 'road' in posts
if an ambiguity is possible?

Mikey D
 
--




"Ride and find where all the freedom has gone..."

Michael J. Davis          |   cs92mjd@ac.uk.ex.cen
Dept of Computer Science  |   cs92mjd@cen.ex.uk.ac
University of Exeter      |
UK                        |   #include<disclaimer.std>




   








--
From: mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Mackintosh)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Cannondale Crit Frame
Date: 17 Nov 92 12:34:43 GMT
Reply-To: mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Mackintosh)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.bicycles.tech, tye@elvis.mit.edu (Tye Brady) writes:
>In article <27459@oasys.dt.navy.mil> mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David
>Mackintosh) writes:
>> Eric will insist that it's impossible to feel any difference but I have
>> ridden many frames with the _same_ set of wheels and tires.  I'm
>> 6'-3", 180lbs and ride 61-63cm frames; there is no reason for a smaller
>> or average-sized rider to suffer with a 'Dale except low cost!  The 2.8
>> series frames may be significantly less brutal but you're then
>> approaching the cost of a good SL frame.

>So, so, so, so, so many people rank on cannies just because the other guy
>says so.  I find that a large amount of people can say "aw yea,
>cannondales are stiff, shake yer fillings out" without even riding one!

You conveniently left out the portion of my post where I indicated
(perhaps unsuccessfully) that I owned a Cannondale Crit frame (two
actually).  I also pointed out that the 2.8 may be significantly more
comfortable.  The original post asked for advice on the _3.0_Series_
Criterium_ frames, on which I have ridden at least 5000 miles.  Even
the 3.0 Series Road frames may be more comfortable with its smaller
down tube and more laid back geometry.

There are few people who have ridden both the Cannondale 3.0 Series
Criterium frames _and_ steel frames extensively and would recommend the
Criterium frame for rides of >100 miles.  I think this is the information
wanted by the original poster.

BTW, one of my frames had the steel fork and big oval stays, the other
was the current type with aluminum fork.

David Mackintosh
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: aviator@athena.mit.edu (Joakim Karlsson)
Subject: Wonderful Stores (was Re: Cannondale MTB's (was Cannondale Crit))
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.marketplace
Organization: Flight Transportation Associates, Cambridge, MA
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 14:27:30 GMT

In article <1992Nov18.150500.2399@gacvx2.gac.edu> doachs@next-1.gac.edu (Dan A Oachs) writes:
>
. I also believe that the bike shop I bought it from is also  
>wonderful.

Suggestion: When raving about a bike store, let's include the name and
address.  Quality and good service are becoming rare commodities, and I
believe stores which care about customer satisfaction should be
rewarded.

Follow-ups to rec.bicycles.marketplace please.

...Joakim


--
Joakim Karlsson            | aviator@athena.mit.edu
Flying Fanatic in Training | Air: PP-ASEL  CAP: Freedom 107 Mobile  FCC: N1JHW
                 "Oh, I have slipped the surly bonds of earth
                And danced the skies on laughter-silvered wings"
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: mpb@nomad.jpl.nasa.gov (Michael Batchelder)
Subject: Re: frozen shocks 
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory, NASA/Caltech
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 02:20:17 GMT

In article <1992Nov14.205148.9326@u.washington.edu>, miolnir@stein.u.washington.edu (Scot Thorstad) writes:
|> In article <1992Nov13.153836.9398@norfolk.vak12ed.edu> jpitts@norfolk.vak12ed.edu (Joseph R. Pitts) writes:
|> >dai@kevlar.rtp.dg.com  writes:

|> >>  While riding around Mt Snow this weekend (actually, the summit is open 
|> >>  for skiing, so the mountain itself is closed to biking),
|> >>  my Trek DS2 front shock froze up. It was snowy and about 20 degrees.
|> >>  When I got back home, I threw hot water on it to free it up, but things aren't
|> >>  back to normal. I seem to be leaking oil, ( damaged seals? ), 
|> >>  which indicates disassembly and rebuild (under warranty, I hope).
|> >>  Is my diagnosis correct?
|> >>  And what can be done to prevent it, or fix it in the field? 
|> >>  The only thing I can think of is to add shock boots and carry lock de-icer.
|> >>  
|> >
|> >dave my brother,
|> >	i have heard of having to actually change the shockoil
|> >for different weather conditions(something to do with viscosity
|> >i think) and the warranty part, dream on i think.
|> >					have fun
|> >						joe pitts,
|> >						norfolk
|> I believe that shock oils are designed to be used at "normal" 70F
|> riding temps. When it gets down to 20F it's like using 40 weight
|> oil in your car at the same temp, the stuff turns to tar.  If you 
|> plan to do much cold riding get a thinner oil, just remember to
|> change it again when it warms up.  I seem to remember rubber stiffening
|> up and cracking when it gets cold but I have no idea if anyone makes
|> cold weather seals. Hope it helps.
|> 
|> scot

The Trek DS2's have a rap for being stiff as a general rule, and when
you drop the temp down, I expect you'll have minimal damping from the
oil, which is potentially damaging to seals, I would think.  I'd try a
super-lighweight oil, like _seriously_ 5 weight or LESS.  Go to a
motorcycle shop or someplace that services lawnmowers.

Michael Batchelder
mpb@nomad.jpl.nasa.gov
From: robj@dcs.qmw.ac.uk (Robert Johnson;Phd)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Dropouts and hangers
Date: 16 Nov 92 13:18:41 GMT
Organization: Computer Science Dept, QMW, University of London

The bad news:

I looped my MTB in training on Saturday and
it landed on the rear mech (it's a Giant
Cadex -CFM2 carbon fibre jobbie).  The mech
has bent back OK, but the hanger part of the
dropout is still bent round.   A chum tells
me that bending it back using an adjustable
spanner is OK providing the wheel is left in
situ.   Others have said that I'll need the
full jig and to take it to a shop.

Opinions?

		Cheers, RobJ


--
                         Robert Johnson
Automated Reasoning Group        | email:robj@dcs.qmw.ac.uk
Computer Science Department      | tel. :     071-975-5259
Queen Mary and Westfield College | fax  :     081-980-6533
University of London             |
Mile End Road                    |
London  E1 4NS   U.K.            |
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: icsic231@Msu.oscs.montana.edu
Subject: Re: Cannondale MTB's (was Cannondale Crit)
Reply-To: icsic231@Msu.oscs.montana.edu
Organization: Montana State University
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 04:20:43 GMT

In article <BxwqAC.LxB@cen.ex.ac.uk>, cs92mjd@cen.ex.ac.uk (M.J.Davis) writes:
>In article Terry Thiel writes:
>
>   >I like 'dale road bikes although I've switched to an RB-1 and like it better.
>   >The mounatin bike break constanly though.  I know personally of several
>   >people who have had three and four frames due to breakage.                  
>   
>Whoooaa! Danger! I feel I _have_ to qualify this statement (before 'Dales legal
>department comes down on Terry like a ton of Hyperglide sprockets :-). I too
>have seen and heard about Dale frame failures (I knew one guy who took out
>three in a matter of weeks). But they were _all_ 1991 (3.0 series) 18" frames.
>The problem was the combination of 2" down tube, 1" steerer, and short head 
>tube. The surface area of the weld was just too small. The 20" frames never
>had a problem (that I know of), and nor did either pre-2" tube frames or 
>'92 and on frames with Evo headsets. I've never seen a 'Dale break anywhere
>but at the head tube welds, and only that particular year/size. I've seen
>lots of intact 'Dales ridden by 180lb psychos..>--


I have fixed 3 Cannondales in the past year, all broken at the
seattube/seatstay/toptube.  All in all however I don't think that Cannondales
are that bad of bike (for a production aluminum bike).  Their front suspension
however rips!

my 2c,
Jason
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: miolnir@stein.u.washington.edu (Scot Thorstad)
Subject: Re: better cantelever braking
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 04:42:19 GMT

In article <168A112253.EPLUS17@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu> EPLUS17@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu (Richard Engelbrecht-Wiggans) writes:
>In article <1992Nov16.235735.7640@u.washington.edu>
>miolnir@stein.u.washington.edu (Scot Thorstad) writes:
> 
>>In article <1992Nov16.204659.16744@eng.umd.edu> gsurbeck@eng.umd.edu (Gregory D. Surbeck) writes:
>>>Scott SE cantilever are supposed to be able to stop a single bike so
>>>quickly that they can throw new riders.
>>
>>[My confusion drivel deleted]
>>
>Put three adult riders on your bike and see what happens.  This
>thread was started with respect to braking on a tandem.  I find
>that the frictional loses between the brake lever and the rear
>brake (about 7 feet back on my triplet) are so severe that I get
>significantly less braking than on a single.  Multiply that by the
>extra weight and the extra speed of a tandem, and you might see
>why even the SE brakes mentioned above aren't enough on a tandem.
> 
>..Richard E+17
I stand corrected. Do I feel my 8 panel asbestos bike shorts
getting warm?
scot
From: cormack@sequent.com (Mike Cormack)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Info on truing a wheel?
Date: 19 Nov 92 00:15:11 GMT
Article-I.D.: sequent.1992Nov19.001511.1181
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems, Inc.


Hello,

I have a rear wheel that is warped and needs truing.  I've never done
this before, is it something I can do myself or is it cheap enough to
have a bike shop do it?

Thanks,
Mike
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tlt38517@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Terry Thiel)
Subject: Re: Colnago double down tube bike.
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 16:19:59 GMT

tomk@netcom.com (Thomas H. Kunich) writes:
>In article <BxvIE7.IB8@cs.uiuc.edu> tthiel@cs.uiuc.edu (Terry Thiel) writes:
>>The name of the shop is Cycle Smithy, they're in the 312 area code in Chicago,
>>I don't know the number but you can get it by calling information at 1-312-555-
>>1212.  I don't know if they do mail order but they sound pretty desperate for
>>cash so maybe so.  I'd imagine you would have to pay shipping but it's not
>>that expensive to ship bikes UPS.
>I highly recommend against doing any business with this shop as
>a mail-order. The price of the STI DuraAce grouppo with the new
>SPD pedals is higher than the price for the completed bike deal.
>This shop won't stay in business long.

That's a giant leap of logic unless you have personal experience with the
place.  I don't know if they're any good or not but I do know that alot of stores are selling bikes for unbelievable prices (especially road bikes) because
they had such a bad year due to the recession.  Now they need to move 92
stuff out and get cash to buy 93 bikes.  I've seen some incredible deals as
a result.  I think it helped that the bike my brother bought was unique
becasue of it's double down tube and therefor harder to sell.  Besides this
place carries alot of name brand bikes like Bridgestone.  Even if they
went under (there's no indication they will, they're a very large store)
then another Bridgestone dealer is obligated to service the bikes.  Not that
I am not syaing this is a good store, I don't know if it is or not but your
statment doesn't quite wash.
-Terry



Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: vvkmj@sven.lerc.nasa.gov (Keith Jackson)
Subject: Cannondale Delta V question
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 22:18:28 GMT

A friend of mine won a fully suspended 1992 Cannondale Delta V frame as
a door prize at a mountain bike race.  He wanted cash more than a
mountain bike so he sold it to me at a great price.  I took it to my
team bike shop (not a cannondale dealer) for them to order the parts to
build it up.  The guys at the shop don't know what to do with the
little pulley wheel just above where the brakes will go.

He tried calling Cannondale, but they said since he is not a dealer
they wouldn't help him. (His reply should have been - "With service
like that, maybe that's why I'm not").  Anyway, before I call around
and visit shops - I would like ANY info on how this beast goes
together, especially the brakes.

BTW - I am putting Shimano Deore XT stuff on the bike.
--
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Keith Jackson                  |     phone: 216-891-2946
Sverdrup Technology, Inc       |
NASA Lewis Research Center     |     email: vvkmj@sven.lerc.nasa.gov
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: mattf@cac.washington.edu (Matthew Freedman)
Subject: Re: Wheel Failure/Crash/Warranty Question
Organization: U.W. Information Systems
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 20:18:15 GMT

(William Koenig Lloyd) writes:
> I think you're outta luck.  What probably happened is you gave the wheel a
> side load, which will screw ya fast since they're not at all strong in that
> respect. 

What exactly is a side load? How do you give one to a wheel, and more
importantly, how do you avoid doing it?

Since I am going to be replacing the rim, what kind is best for
avoiding this problem?

	 -- Matt
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: falcon@camelot.bradley.edu (D. Nathan Hood)
Subject: Re: Adjusting cantilever brakes
Organization: Bradley University
Date: 19 Nov 92 22:51:23 GMT

In <20242@acorn.co.uk> steve@acorn.co.uk (Steve "daffy" Hunt) writes:

>Any braking experts on here?

how about a fairly knowledgeable person...

>What is the secret of adjusting cantilever brakes for maximum braking
>performance?  I have played with my Shimano brakes for some time, and
>haven't had very satisfactory results.  Nor has the bike shop I tried.

>How important is it to have the special alignment jig mentioned in the
>Shimano instruction leaflet?  (Needless to say I haven't; surprisingly
>nor did the bike shop).  How critical is it to get the right toe-in on
>the blocks?

i spent one summer working for Schwinn buliding bikes for the most part...
the canitlevers were a bitch... it depends on the type of brake... there
was one type which didn't have the traditional stirrup and cross-cable, instead it had one cable go to the cantilever and another cable attached to the
main cable with a clamp...  this sort i think it was the DX-100 or
something like that... i think i saw it mostly on frontiers.. i don't
remember requires the jig but if it is a traditional stirrup and
cross-cable then you don't need the jig.  The toe-in is _very_ critical...
in braking when the pads are pushed against the rim the force of the rim on
the pads tends to push them away from the fork... if the toe in is wrong
and the pad either contacts the rim flat or back first most of the pad will
be pushed away from the rim and thus you will have very little of the pad
actually working to decelerate the bike...  if the pads contact front first
then the force of the tire will pull the rest of the pad into contact with
the rim and increase your stopping power... the toe in is a bitch to get
right... some types have 'knobs' that can be turned and others i think had
an allen key... anyways the toe-in is crucial to good braking...

i hope this helps...

--
    FFFFFFF  AAAAAAA  LL       CCCCCCC  OOOOOOO  NNN    NN  \             / / 
   FF       AA   AA  LL       CC       OO   OO  NN N   NN    \\\' ,      / //
  FFFFFF   AAAAAAA  LL       CC       OO   OO  NN  N  NN      \\\//,   _/ //,  
 FF       AA   AA  LL       CC       OO   OO  NN   N NN        \_-//' /  //<, 
FF       AA   AA  LLLLLLL  CCCCCCC  OOOOOOO  NN    NNN           \ ///  <//`    
                                                                 /  >>  \\\`__/_
falcon@camelot.bradley.edu                                      /,)-^>>\` , \\\
D. Nathan Hood, AKA Nathan "Of The" Hood, AKA Brotherhood, AKA  (/   \\ /\\\    
Mutt, AKA falcon, AKA The Blue Eyed Teddy Bear                      // _//\\\\
                                    x1358                         ((` ((
WATCH THE BEAT!!!!!!   -Anthrax
From: SteveSgt@cup.portal.com (Steven Eugene Sergeant)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Chargers for HBL's
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 92 10:29:20 PST
Organization: The Portal System (TM)
Distribution: usa

jwgst2+@pitt.edu (James W Gourgoutis) writes:
> Hello!
>         I am in the process of building a home-brew lighting
> system (HBL), and I have everything that I need except the
> charger.  I have considered the option of building my own, but
> I'm not much of an E.E. so I don't want to try it. Can anybody
> suggest a cheap battery charger?  My battery is a 12 volt, 3 amp-
> hour battery.  I'd like to stay around or under $20.  Thanks!

Discount stores like K-Mart and Target sell 1 amp motorcycle
battery chargers that work just great for 6 volt and 12 volt
lead-acid gell-cells.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Steve Sergeant            Internet:  SteveSgt@torrent.sj.ca.us
3266 Tulipwood Ln.           Radio:  KC6ZKT [@N0ARY.#NOCAL.US.NA]
San Jose, CA  95132          GEnie:  STEVSERGEANT
(408) 945-0395                 FAX:  (408) 945-0543
Audio Engineering, Music, Macintosh, Bicycles, Backcountry, Japan
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: paynter@bnr.ca (Stuart Paynter)
Subject: Re: runny noses and face masks
Reply-To: paynter@bnr.ca (Stuart Paynter)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 92 15:48:32 GMT

A solution that has been suggested to me by ski patrollers is to put
some vaseline on the inside of your nose.  It seems to work but you
need to reapply it (in my case anyways) every 2 hours or so.

Cheers...Stuart
From: sims@possum.den.mmc.com (John Sims)
Subject: Re: Halogen vs Incandescent & Gates Cyclon batteries
Organization: Martin Marietta Astronautics, Denver
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 22:09:35 GMT

For my homebrew setup, I used a Sylvania _plastic_ halogen car
leadlight, which has a high beam of 35 watts and a low beam with
somewhat fewer watts.  It's very light, and weighs less than the cateye
halogen light.  I stole the cateye mount, used some aluminum bar stock,
which I bent into a U shape to fit around the top and bottom of the
headlight.  The headlight is held in place inside the U with velcro.  I
mounted an ON-OFF-ON switch on the U, ran the power leads up, and use a
7AH 12V sealed lead acid for power.  I use an old Sears battery charger
which I already had lying around the house, so for about $50 total cost,
I have a high power, removable headlight assembly which is very rugged
and lights up the road wonderfully well.

A little ingenuity is all it takes.

John
-- 
John Sims    sims@pogo.den.mmc.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tlt38517@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Terry Thiel)
Subject: How to secure pump to frame?
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 01:07:31 GMT

My borthers new Colango (The $1200 one with Dura-Ace STI) has no pump peg.
How do people secure pumps to their road bikes so they don't rattle?  I assumed
people use those velcro thingies but wanted other ides since it seems like
they would rattle.
-Terry
From: rlk@underprize.think.com (Robert Krawitz)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: How to secure pump to frame?
Date: 18 Nov 92 08:33:13
Organization: Thinking Machines Corporation, Cambridge Mass., USA
NNTP-Posting-Host: underprize.think.com
In-reply-to: tlt38517@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu's message of Wed, 18 Nov 1992 01:07:31 GMT

In article <Bxw0GK.G2z@news.cso.uiuc.edu> tlt38517@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu
(Terry Thiel) writes:

   My borthers new Colango (The $1200 one with Dura-Ace STI) has no pump
   peg.  How do people secure pumps to their road bikes so they don't
   rattle?  I assumed people use those velcro thingies but wanted other
   ides since it seems like they would rattle.

After losing one pump to this (and incidentally almost having a crash,
but luckily it didn't quite jam in my rear wheel, but it did cut the
wire to my computer), I've decided that an old toe strap works just
fine.  Assuming that you have an HP-X or something of the sort that fits
between your top tube and seat tube, and is as long as your top tube,
use the toe strap on the top tube near the stem.  Holds tightly and
never rattles.
--
ames >>>>>>>>>  |	Robert Krawitz <rlk@think.com>	245 First St.
bloom-beacon >  |think!rlk				Cambridge, MA  02142
harvard >>>>>>  .	Thinking Machines Corp.		(617)234-2116

Member of the League for Programming Freedom -- write lpf@uunet.uu.net
From: shon@f2ahp1.jhuapl.edu (Shon Shampain)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Lets talk about TT frames....
Date: 18 Nov 1992 15:47:13 -0600
Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu

Greetings,

I am hoping that someone on the net can help me with a recommendation
for a racing frame to be used exclusively for time trials, specifically,
the frame must have:

	- brake positioning for 26'' wheels
	- 78-80 degree seat tube angle
	- compact size owing to a dropped top tube 
	- light weight

Now for the catch:  I know I can get exactly what I want in a custom frame
for $1100.00 from John Holland or any number of other wonderfully talented
frame builders.  I also know that I can get exactly what I want from
Quintana Roo for about the same price (and they aren't even hand made).  
But, I also know that my $300 Cannondale 3.0 road frame
satisfies 2/4, and my mountain bike frame another 2/4 (and it would surely
sell for less than $300).  Now the big Q:

	Is there anyone or any company anywhere that sells what I
	am looking for at a reasonable ($300-$500) price?

	If not, is there anyone selling a mtb frame with all requirements
	except light weight?

Many thanks.
shon@aplcomm.jhuapl.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tye@elvis.mit.edu (Tye Brady)
Subject: Re: Cannondale Crit Frame
Organization: Massachvsetts Institvte of Technology
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 18:43:36 GMT

In article <27459@oasys.dt.navy.mil> mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David  
Mackintosh) writes:
> Eric will insist that it's impossible to feel any difference but I have
> ridden many frames with the _same_ set of wheels and tires.  I'm
> 6'-3", 180lbs and ride 61-63cm frames; there is no reason for a smaller
> or average-sized rider to suffer with a 'Dale except low cost!  The 2.8
> series frames may be significantly less brutal but you're then
> approaching the cost of a good SL frame.

WARNING..WARNING...
*** defensive mood started ***

Can you tell me where to get a steel 2.8 lb frame for $595?

The new 2.8 dale stuff is hot.  Quick, responsive, and yes, you can ride  
it >100 miles when it is properly fitted to you.  If all the folklore were  
true about cannies you would be doing 30mph with the first pedal due to  
stiffness, shaken off your seat at 35 due to vibration, collapse in  
fatigue after 40 miles due to weird beer can geometry, and then watch the  
2.8 frame crumple beneath your feet due to the thin walled design. 

So, so, so, so, so many people rank on cannies just because the other guy  
says so.  I find that a large amount of people can say "aw yea,  
cannondales are stiff, shake yer fillings out" without even riding one!   
And better yet is when Tiny Tim climbs up on Andre the Giants cannondale,  
peddles around the block, and makes a -valid- conclusion.

*** defensive mood ended ****
ahhhh.

tye
click-click-see ya