HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: tomj@monster.apd.saic.com (Tom Johnson)
Subject: More antique planes
Organization: SAIC, Reston, VA
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 16:53:41 GMT

I was browsing in an antique store yesterday, and they had two wooden-body
planes there.  One might have been a Stanley (most of the label was obscured),
and it had "35" stamped near the sole. It was about 8" long, and had a sort
of elliptical sole.  The other was about 24" long, had a stamp on it that
could have said "KeenEdge" (again, obscured).  Its rear handle resembled
that of a hand saw, with a turned knob for a front handle.

They were asking $37 for each.  The Stanley's handle was loose, otherwise
they both seem to be in pretty good shape.

What think you?  OK prices?  Any pointers on what to look for, or to
look out for??

Thanks!

-- tom


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stevep@sparky.se.hou.compaq.com (Steve Pinn)
Subject: Re: How to use waterstone?
Organization: Compaq Computer Corporation
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 22:36:25 GMT

Dave, very nice summary and explanation - Steve
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Thu, 7 Jan 1993 09:17:24 EST
From:         "Bramel, Jim" <UKA004@UKCC.UKY.EDU>
Subject:      Re: Any other kinds of 3-inch pin-end scroll saw blades?
              7 Jan 1993 05:00:53 GMT from <mcovingt@AISUN3.AI.UGA.EDU>

I never found an application for my Dremel.  I finally gave it to my
nine year old grandson along with some safety precautions.  I am sure
it would cut flesh.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jsharpe@bnr.ca (Jeffrey Sharpe P275)
Subject: ELU Biscuit Joiner = Dewalt Joiner.... 
Keywords: Joiner 
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, BNR-RTP 
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 14:52:41 GMT

I posted earlier a question about whether or not the ELU 
Plate Joiner was the same as the Dewalt. It definitly is!  

After receiving my "Backorder" conformation from Woodworker's
Supply here in North Carolina, I decided to go over to Tarheel
Filing Company.  (only a few minutes drive from my shop).  They
did have the ELU (exactly like the DeWalt) and I purchased it 
$30.00 cheaper than Woodworker's Supply.  Guess what - it is
also cheaper than Trend Line's DeWalt Joiner. Sorry Woodworker's
Supply, I can't wait two months for a plate joiner.

Tarheel Filing Company sells the ELU Joiner w/ case, vacuum bag 
and attachments for $210.00.  This is the cheapest I have seen and
Tarheel Filing Company is also a very large mailorder company.  They
seem to beat almost all prices on Delta equipment also.  They do not
have the joiner listed in their full page ads but they do carry them.
If you do order a joiner from them, ask for their catalog, they carry
much more than their ads say.  

So if you are in the market for a biscuit joiner, give them a buzz -
seems they have plenty in stock.

Jeff Sharpe
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Wed, 6 Jan 1993 12:51:33 EST
From:         Bob Pelcovits <PH500000@BROWNVM.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Push Sticks (was Re: WARNING (response to...)

>Posted on 6 Jan 1993 at 12:11:49 by mglacy@LAMAR.COLOSTATE.EDU
>
>Push Sticks (was Re: WARNING (response to...))
>
>Date:         Wed, 6 Jan 1993 15:57:08 GMT
>Reply-To:     Woodworking Discussions <WOODWORK@IPFWVM.BITNET>
>From:         mglacy@LAMAR.COLOSTATE.EDU
>
>....Various people relate their table saw accidents......
>
>I appreciate reading the accident stories---really, one can never be
>reminded too often.  I'm struck, though, that no one has mentioned
>using push sticks as a preventive measure.  Push sticks are easy
>to make from scrap, are relatively easy to use, and will eliminate
>essentially all hand-blade accidents.  Given this, I'm surprised
>I rarely see anyone on rec.ww mentioning using them.  What don't
>you non-pushers :-)  like about sticks?
>  As a regular 'pusher,' I subjectively feel less in control with sticks,
>but I always tell myself that fingers are more important than a
>sense of control.   Any thoughts?
>=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-==-=-=-=
>Mike Lacy, Sociology Dept.      CSU and I have a deal: We don't take
>Colo. State Univ.               responsibility for one another's opinions.
>Fort Collins CO 80523           voice (303) 491-6721

  I agree; push sticks are very important, easy to make and use. I also learned
 something useful from Roger Cliffe's book, "Table Saw Basics". Make two push
sticks and use one in *each* hand. The one in your left hand (assuming you're
pushing the workpiece with your right) will eliminate your tendency to reach
over the blade and pull the workpiece through or grab the scrap.
  I think safety glasses are also essential if you're using a pry bar. I nearly
 lost my right eye last year when a wooden corner bead I was prying off split i
n half and came flying around back at me sharp end first. It hit me 1/4" below
the eye.



                                  --Bob Pelcovits
                                  Robert_Pelcovits@brown.edu
                                  (401)-863-1432
                                  FAX (401)-863-1157
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: WARNING (response to...)
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 20:15:06 GMT

jon@unislc.uucp (Jon Bork) writes:
: 
: On the slotted screwdrivers, I've given up wherever I can.
: For all new woodworking I now use square drive screws and love
: them. They don't slip, they start easily, they will balance on
: the bit while you get them in place, etc.
: 
: I ran out of one size the other night and grabbed some slotted
: screws I had to finish the job. Three scraped knuckles and
: some unprintable words later, I vowed to order before I 
: got low next time. Slotted screws just don't cut it 
: compared to square or robertson drive screws.

If you have parallel ground screwdrivers, then the slotted head screws
are not bad. I agree that the wedge shaped flat grind screwdrivers are
a real pain.

Bill
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ameres@manhattan.cat.rpi.edu (Eric Ameres)
Subject: Re: WARNING
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 19:32:49 GMT

rec.wwer's,

While we're on the subject of safety, I think it's worth reminding
people that fingers aren't the only things we can lose in the shop.
My closest to terrible accident occurred while soldering a piece of
copper pipe.  Not exactly a woodworking accident but a valuable
lesson.  While soldering this particular pipe a tiny piece of molten
solder "flew off" the piece I was working on and landed approximately
1/4" below my left eye, dead center.  Any higher and my eye would have
been history.  I still have a small burn scar from where it hit.  Ever
since, I am pretty religious about eye protection.

We should also be concerned with respiratory protection (sometimes an
easy one to forget about).  OSHA has all kinds of wonderful guidelines
for safety and for the $30 or so investment in a respirator you can
save a lot of brain/lung/etc cells from fumes, sawdust and the like.
I've started working alot with solvent based laquers and finishes and
I can't imagine working in my spray room w/o the (explosion-proof)
exhaust fan AND my respirator on.  Don't ignite any fumes and blow
yourself up either (another way smoking can be deadly, and if you're
smoking, you also must've forgotten your respirator).  Dust collection
also provides a lot more than just neatness.

Anyway, let's be careful out there, too few of us come with spare
parts.

-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Eric Ameres,  Software Engineer                 ameres@cat.rpi.edu
New York State Center for Advanced Technology in Automation & Robotics
Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute - CII 8313, Troy, NY 12180-3590
From: markw@hpcss01.cup.hp.com (Mark Williams)
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 23:45:50 GMT
Subject: Re: Resawing with Delta 16 inch bandsaw
Organization: Hewlett Packard, Cupertino
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

For resawing you need power and a stiff blade.  You can get a stiffer blade
either by making it wider or by increasing tension.  Bi metal blades let you 
increase tension on a thinner blade.  

Bi-metal blades are made of two steel alloys, one for the cutting edge
which is hard and brittle, the other for the back which is stronger but softer.
In theory you can tension them higher than a standard blade of the same
width, which means better resawing with a thin blade.  In practice many
light-duty two-wheel 14 inch and three-wheel band saws cannot tension
these blades enough to use a 1/4 inch blade for resawing.  You may need a 
wider blade instead, or a heavier duty saw.

Another option is a carbide coated blade, available from the infamous
Grizzley Imports and others.  They cost more than bimetal, but are 
supposedly even better for resawing.

You also need lots of power, and few teeth per inch.  Duginski recommends
3 TPI on a skip hook raker blade.  Garrett Wade sells them, among others.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: auidcc@ducvax.auburn.edu
Subject: Mitre Saw Stand - which to buy?
Organization: Auburn University, AL
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 17:06:36 GMT

I want to buy a stand for my Hitachi C8FB mitre saw.  I want one that the
saw is bolted to and the stand folds up and the whole works can be wheeled 
around, like a hand truck.  I have looked at the Rousseau (2900 HD, I 
think).  It appears to be exactly what I want, but I would like to find
something cheaper (it's about $275) if it would be as good.  I don't
want to compromise on quality and will buy the Rousseau, if there is
nothing else as good for less.  Any ideas?

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: rlwilliams@gallua.gallaudet.edu
Subject: slippage when gluing
Organization: Gallaudet University
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 19:54:59 GMT

Hi,
	there are times when I want to clamp two pieces of wood together 
using regular elmers carpenter's glue and a c clamp. When I do this the 
wood invariably slips out of allignment.  Is there an easy solution to this 
problem?

skip
rlwilliams@gallua.bitnet
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mja@philabs.philips.com (Michael Amato)
Subject: Re: Bunk Bed Plans
Originator: mja@hercules
Reply-To: mja@philabs.philips.com (Michael Amato)
Organization: Philips Laboratories, Briarcliff, NY 10510
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 16:35:37 GMT


In article <1993Jan7.140315.8217@cbfsb.cb.att.com>, mvrjl@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (robert.j.lansing) writes:
|> I am interested in getting plans to build a set of bunk
|> beds.  Preferably, a set that could be used for bunks or
|> as two individual twin beds, and storage underneath.  I have

I would also be interested in this, especially now that
my new daughter arrived on Saturday - I had better get started on
more bedspace now.
   
|> ordered a back issue of Woodsmith that features bunk bed
|> plans, but am leery that these may be a little beyond my
|> skill level and time constraints.  In addition to sources
|> for plans, I'd also appreciate any tips and knowledge
|> sharing with regard to this topic.
|> 
|> Thank you.
|> 
|> -Bob Lansing
-- 
+-----------------------------------------------------------------+
| Michael Amato  DoD#0639 | "If pro is the opposite of con,       |
| mja@philabs.philips.com | then what is Congress"? - Will Rogers |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: inc@tc.fluke.COM (Gary Benson)
Subject: Re: WARNING (response to...)
Organization: John Fluke Mfg. Co., Inc., Everett, WA
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 23:48:29 GMT

In article <145095@lll-winken.LLNL.GOV> gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot) writes:

>Actually, the mantra I repeat to myself while working is "There's always time
>to shut the tool off."  My partner, Wonder Woman, agrees.  I note that
>you really have to be determined to cut off your fingers when the blade
>is not rotating.

>Also, the deliberate act of turning off a machine and waiting for rundown
>fosters a more deliberate approach to setups.  Some of the accidents reported
>were partly caused by shortcuts in setting up restraints or guards.  If you
>school yourself to wait, it spills over into planning tool usage because
>each cut or usage is terminated by a period of deliberation.  What else can
>you do while waiting but think?

This is very well put. A former grifriend's father was a carpenter, and I
worked in his basement shop with him many times. He used this practice, and
at first it drove me to distraction . . . let's go!, let's go!! But I came
to appreciate the deliberate nature of his work, and to understand that the
waiting was not a waste of time. It saves fingers and it provides time to
reflect on what you have done and what is upcoming.

He spent much more time planning the application of power to a tool than he
did making cuts. My first inclination was always, "Ok, this piece is marked,
let's saw it and see how it fits". He'd inevitably reply that we still had 4
other pieces we could mark and saw them all at one time with the same setup.

I also like thd idea of using the pencil to take out bits of wood. My mom's
cousin does that, too. AFTER the blade has stopped.


-- 
Gary Benson   -_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-inc@sisu.fluke.com_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-

Those who will be able to conquer software will be able to
conquer the world.  -Tadahiro Sekimoto, President, NEC Corp.
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 5 Jan 1993 13:42:36 -0500
From:         "Wile E. Coyote" <BBHULSEY@LIFE.UAMS.EDU>
Subject:      Re: Water stained pine

Greetings!

kbt writes:

>i have a window frame, made out of pine, which has
>a great deal of water staining. i have fixed the
>source of the water and would like to paint the
>frame with, eventualy, a latex paint. i have done
>this before, put a couple of coats of primer on
>then the finish coat but the stain, over time,
>works it's way through... any suggestions, short
>of replacing the frame!

I've heard good things about a primer called KILZ which is supposed to prevent
just the sort of thing you describe.  I have used KILZ myself, but not over
water-stained areas.  It's worth a try, if nothing else works.

.......
:  o/ : Bruce Hulsey
: <|  : Univ. of Arkansas for Medical Sciences
: / > : internet: bbhulsey@life.uams.edu
:.....: bitnet:   bbhulsey@uams
From: richard@TIS.COM (Richard Clark)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Norm's New Season
Date: 8 Jan 93 16:23:12 GMT
Reply-To: richard@TIS.COM
Organization: Trusted Information Systems


	New season... poo! Sure it's fun to watch to see what kind of
newfangled tools he whips out...! But let's see him build something with
the limited hardware that most of us suffer with. Let's see him build
a few things without resorting to the use of "only in my dreams" types
of tools! Sheesh. C'mon Norm, stick to the basics, like a circular saw
and a sander. No drill press. No jointer. No planer. No biscuit muncher.
No blivot maker. No squiblet flurbigator... Gimme some ideas on how to
do some nice things with my limited resources..!

	:)   <-- for the humor impaired.


-----------------------Relativity Schmelativity-----------------------------
 Richard H. Clark				My opinions are my own, and
 LUNATIK - watch for me on the road...		ought to be yours, but under
 It's not my fault... I voted PEROT!		no circumstances are they
 richard@tis.com				those of my company...
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mcovingt@aisun3.ai.uga.edu (Michael Covington)
Subject: Re:      Re: Any other kinds of 3-inch pin-end scroll saw blades?
Organization: AI Programs, University of Georgia, Athens
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 21:25:54 GMT

In article <WOODWORK%93010709233160@IPFWVM.BITNET> "Bramel, Jim" <UKA004@UKCC.UKY.EDU> writes:
>I never found an application for my Dremel.  I finally gave it to my
>nine year old grandson along with some safety precautions.  I am sure
>it would cut flesh.

I use it all the time to cut pieces of electronic circuit board, and have
just built a sliding-fence jig to make perfectly straight perpendicular
cuts.  But a greater variety of blades would be nice.

-- 
:-  Michael A. Covington     internet mcovingt@uga.cc.uga.edu :    *****
:-  Artificial Intelligence Programs       phone 706 542-0358 :  *********
:-  The University of Georgia                fax 706 542-0349 :   *  *  *
:-  Athens, Georgia 30602-7415 U.S.A.     amateur radio N4TMI :  ** *** **
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Resawing with Delta 16 inch bandsaw
Date: 11 Jan 93 03:43:35 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <1993Jan8.190525.21422@adobe.com> bennett@adobe.com writes:
|william.l.millios writes
|> I seem to remember reading somewhere that somebody recommended
|> a 1/4 inch bimetal blade for all bandsawing activities; this person
|> visited some shop (how's this for precision of memory) and saw
|> the bimetal blade being used for everything from curves to 
|> resawing, and was sold on the idea.  

|> The bimetal construction apparently lends some kind of attribute
|> not normally present in standard blades.

|The attribute is that the back part of the blade is very strong and
|can take a high tensile force. The problem is that most non-industrial
|bandsaws, and I would definitely include the Delta 3-wheeler in that
|category, are not built to supply those kinds of tensions. Some bimetal
|manufacturers won't sell their blades in home-bandsaw lengths.

I remember reading in FWW, a couple of issues after an article lauding
bimetal blades, a warning that bimetal blades should NOT be used in
three-wheelers or small two-wheelers.  If I recall correctly, the remark
was that since they're much stiffer they are prone to overheating and
stress shattering on "short belt units", particularly 3-wheel with their
very short "straight-aways" - the belt flexes a lot more.  Ie: the
manufacturers are refusing because of a safety hazard.

|> Note that I do not have a bandsaw nor a bimetal blade, just
|> a memory like a packrat.

|My statements are from memory also. I do have a bandsaw, but don't use
|bimetal blades on it. How's my memory doing? ;^)

I'm like the former.  From memory.... ;-)
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: fred@mks.com (Fred Kratky)
Subject: Re: WARNING (response to...)
Organization: Mortice Kern Systems Inc., Waterloo, Ontario, CANADA
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 18:09:30 GMT

In article <1993Jan7.201506.25622@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com> billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson) writes:
>jon@unislc.uucp (Jon Bork) writes:
>: 
>: I ran out of one size the other night and grabbed some slotted
>: screws I had to finish the job. Three scraped knuckles and
>: some unprintable words later, I vowed to order before I 
>: got low next time. Slotted screws just don't cut it 
>: compared to square or robertson drive screws.
>
>If you have parallel ground screwdrivers, then the slotted head screws
>are not bad. I agree that the wedge shaped flat grind screwdrivers are
>a real pain.
>
Bill, try a robertson drive and then come back ant tell us what you
think.  To anyone who has tried them, there is no comparison.

-- 
     ||  // // ,'/~~\'   Fred Kratky		fred@mks.com 
    /||/// //|' `\\\     Mortice Kern Systems Inc.     (519) 884-2251
   / | //_// ||\___/     35 King St. N., Waterloo, Ont., Can. N2J 2W9
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: weissborn@DFWVX1.DALLAS.SDS.SLB.COM
Subject: Need some advise on sharpening old planes
Reply-To: weissborn@dfwdsr.sinet.slb.com
Organization: Schlumberger Data Services - Dallas
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 93 16:19:11 GMT

I have been collecting old planes for the last year and now want to be
able to use them.  Unfortunately they ALL need sharpening and/or tuning.
I have at least one of the following:
open-throat router (Stanley #91 I think)
Stanley #3 smoothing
Stanley #5 Jack?
Stanley #7 Jointer
Stanley #8 Jointer
Craftsman rip-off of Stanley #55
several of what I call block-planes--small planes

Almost all will need the blades squared and a new bevel.  But my
question is what degree of bevel do I put on these little gems?
One source I have says about 20-25 degrees.  Another says to put
a 45degree on the Jack and 30 deg on the others. I'm confused.
Does it really matter?

Also, I have a Stanley cabinet scraper (#80 I think).  Do I sharpen
it like my other scrapers, ie, with a burr, or like a plane-blade
with a bevel?

Thanks.

Bill Weissborn
weissborn@dfwvx1.sinet.slb.com
From: Roy_Williams
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Eagle Tools ???
Date: 8 Jan 1993 01:36:52 GMT
Organization: CCSF Caltech, Pasadena, CA
Distribution: world
Reply-To: roy@willow.ccsf.caltech.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: willow.ccsf.caltech.edu

I have good things to say about Eagle tools. Helpful,
knowledgeable, and with a commitment to their products.
I bought an Inca bandsaw, and had an hour of instructions
and demos. I broke 2 blades in my first week with the saw
and they replaced them free. What a pleasure to deal with
people who know what they are talking about and remember my
previous visit. Jesse and John are the ones to talk to.

You might also check out John King power tools, 770 E Walnut,
818 795 5101. I've not bought anything but they seem friendly.

For wood, or just to get the smell of some, try Arroyo Hardwoods,
San Gabriel & Foothill, 818 304 0021. Anyone know some other places
to get hardwood in the LA area?

When you are in old town, where the restaurants are, look in 
on Del Mano gallery, 35 E Colorado. They have delicious jewelry
boxes, also a full-size working grandfather clock made completely
from walnut, no metal.

Roy



Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stevep@sparky.se.hou.compaq.com (Steve Pinn)
Subject: Re: squiblet flurbigator
Organization: Compaq Computer Corporation
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 18:56:53 GMT

I know this is dumb but all I know about these squiblet flurbigator's
is that UPS woun't ship them.
From: johna@hpcvra.cv.hp.com (John Allen)
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 02:14:22 GMT
Subject: Re: WARNING (response to...)
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Corvallis, OR, USA
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

Keep these posts coming.  They really help me to maintain caution/fear in
my shop, especially to not get in a hurry.  One member of my workgroup
suffered several multiple-stitch wounds to one hand over the holidays when
he taped back the blade guard on a Skil saw and the blade bound in the kerf.
Fortunately he had released the trigger just prior to the accident.  When
the saw kicked out of the kerf his left hand became a blade brake.  Whoa!

John Allen
johna@hpcvra.cv.hp.com

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: EPLUS17@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu (Richard Engelbrecht-Wiggans)
Subject: Re: Power Switch on RAS ???
Organization: C.C.S.O.
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 01:33:17 GMT

In article <1993Jan11.181736.22456@mloeff01.cpchq.cpc.gmeds.com>
kl@cveng120.veheng.det (Keith L) writes:
 
>Confessions of a Ryobi RAS junkie:
>
>...snip.... And DON'T EVER, EVER, EVER try to cut pressure-tre                 ated 2 X 6's that are s
>till we
>
>
>
>he middle.
 
Why?  Is this a function of the RAS, or should I avoid cutting
such material with any (power) saw?
 
..Richard E+17 (eplus17@uiuc.edu)
 
(PS.  I tried mailing this, but it bounced.)