HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: billg@bony1.bony.com (Bill Gripp)
Subject: Re: bad experience with FotoCell
Organization: LA&W RR
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 92 13:57:45 GMT

In article <3548@cs.rit.edu> mmr@cs.rit.edu (Margaret M Reek) writes:

>So much for honesty.  I just hope the bastards
>really credit my card.  Also, this has cost me who knows how much in
>long distance charges, since the customer service number is toll
>number instead of an 800 number.

If this item appears on your card JUST DON'T PAY FOR IT.  Hopefully you
haven't yet.  This is a policy everyone should always adopt when using
mail order.  Don't pay for an item until AFTER it has been received.
You have to notify the credit card company when paying the bill though
why you are not paying for something.  You should not be subject to
finance charges on this.

I always pay my credit card bill in full, except when it includes a mail
order item I have not yet received.  I then pay the amount in full minus
the amount for the yet to be received mail order item.  Never had any
problem with VISA, MASTERCARD, or DISCOVER on this.  Sent them a letter
explaining the situation, I ordered so and so but have not received it
yet.  I will pay for it after it has arrived.  When finance charges have
been applied, I call the 800 customer service number.  They have ALWAYS
credited the finance charge to my account.



>company before, but they were on Popular Photography's "Check Rated" 
>Program list, so I figured they were OK.  Never again.

IMHO this is totally worthless.
From: antoine@ali_baba.osd.ulaval.ca (Antoine Gautier)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Nikomat repairs
Keywords: fix nikon shutter
Date: 24 Jul 92 22:01:54 GMT
Reply-To: antoine@alibaba.osd.ulaval.ca (Antoine Gautier)
Organization: Universite Laval

I have an old Nikomat which needs a new shutter, the one on it bounces	
at 1/250 and faster, creating a band ov overexposure... 	
any suggestion as to where i can get this done?
Thks.
From: andyc@hplsla.hp.com (Andy Cassino)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 23:51:16 GMT
Subject: Re: SPORTS ILLUSTRATED SWIMSUIT ISSUE: What Camera/lens?
Organization: HP Lake Stevens, WA
Newsgroups: rec.photo

chucksi@stc.comm.mot.com (Chuckorama) writes:
| 
|Kind of a weird question, but if anyone out there has seen any of the Sports
|Illustrated videos of their swimsuit issue phoography shoots, I was curious 
|what cameras (My guess: F1) and more particularly what lens (some of them were
|HUGE) it looked like they were using...I'm sort of a rookie to photography, but
|I love the contrast and clarity of the pictures, and the way the backgrounds
|were clear, but flat.
| 

The guy that did the shooting in the last couple of issues and the videos was
at a photo show, courtesy of Nikon. I think the guy's name is John
Hinterberger? He was handing out autographed swimsuit issues and yakking it
up with anyone that wanted to yak. I didn't, but I listened for a few minutes
and he does use a F4 and 300mm f/2.8 much of the time.

    %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
    % Andy Cassino                                       %
    % Hewlett-Packard - Lake Stevens Instrument Division %
    %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: sttay@athena.mit.edu (Stephen T Tay)
Subject: summary - slide dupes with nikon pb6 & ps6
Keywords: slide duping
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 15:17:46 GMT

hi folks 
thanks to all who responded to my questions re. the above subject. there were
some requests for a summary, so here goes...

1. cropping with the above system:

the ps-6 will allow you to move the slide horizontally or vertically. however, it
will not allow you to rotate the slide. fortunately, the camera body on the pb-6
can be rotated.

2. light sources:

different light sources were recommended. sunlight is ok with daylight balanced
film, altho' contrast in the dupe may be high.another problem is that sunlight
may not be entirely reproducible and color corrected. 
camera flashes can also be used, eg with a ttl sync cord.
one photographer used a source of 2800k light source from his slide projector
with an 80A blue nikon filter for daylight balanced film; he uses kodak pro
vericolor III film to get internegatives and the results are acceptable.
a better approach is to use an enlarger dichroic lamphouse for a light source.
this requires tungsten-balanced film or conversion filters with daylight film.
one photographer used a durst dichroic lamphouse which allows color correction
with the built in color filters.

3. determining exposure:

you can make standard grey-card slides. expose your favourite source film of an
18% grey-card subject, filling the view. you can then meter off this slide and
use these settings for the slides to be copied. this only works with continuous
light sources.

with flash, try bracketing for the first batch of dupes. 

4. films:

use kodak pro vericolor III for getting internegatives. other films recommended
are kodak 6011, fuji ITN or other internegative film.

for copy slides, use kodak 5071 (tungsten balanced). kodak also makes a slide
film for duping (daylight balanced) but i don't have the name offhand.

5. other comments:

you will not expect high quality copying from a 50f1.4 lens. a 50f2 stopped down
to about f/8 or f/11 will be a little better, and a macro or enlarging lens will
be far better. best yet (but too expensive) is an APO process lens, as its only
function is copy work at magnifications near 1:1. 

if you need 5x to 10x enlargements in copying, reversed wide angle lenses are
excellent choices. for general copy work, the 50mm to 60mm macro lenses are the
most useful.


some of the phrases above were extracted directly from the responses i obtained.
so don't be surprised if you see some words that look familiar.

hope this summary is useful. once again, thanks to all who responded to my
queries.

regards and happy duping
stephen
From: andyc@hplsla.hp.com (Andy Cassino)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Yashica T4
Date: 28 Jul 92 00:20:49 GMT
Article-I.D.: hplsla.5360769
Organization: HP Lake Stevens, WA

SPW103@psuvm.psu.edu writes:
| 
| I own a Stylus.  ...And if people would just READ THE INSTRUCTION MANUAL,
| they'd find out that it warns them to close the lens cover _slowly_ to give
| the lens time to retract.
| 
|                               -Stephen Walker

Thanks, I did not know this. However, personally, I don't think this is 
Good Enough for a consumer item. Is Uncle Fred going to read the manual 
before you hand him your Stylus to take a picture of you and your dog? 
Are you going to remember to tell him, "close it slowly"?

Besides, one of the few truly universal Universal Truths is that most people 
*never* read the manual, hence the origination of the acronym popular 
among technical writers, "RTFM", the derivation of which is left as an 
exercise to the reader.

    %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
    % Andy Cassino                                       %
    % Hewlett-Packard - Lake Stevens Instrument Division %
    %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
Organization: University of Maine System
Date: Wednesday, 22 Jul 1992 11:58:47 EDT
From: <IO92112@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: a question about Velvia
 <1992Jul21.212838.6467@javelin.sim.es.com> <3097@ra.nrl.navy.mil>

From: tse@ra.nrl.navy.mil (Anthony Tse)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: a question about Velvia
Date: 22 Jul 92 13:50:54 GMT
<1992Jul21.212838.6467@javelin.sim.es.com>
Organization: Naval Research Labratory, Washington, DC

In article <3079@ra.nrl.navy.mil>,  tse@ra.nrl.navy.mil writes:

----- delete -----

I'll stick
with Fujichrome for scenics and Ektachrome for anything with skin.
Does Velvia come in bulk yet?  As nice as it is, $10 a roll is just
                                                 ^^^^^^^^^^
a tad too much.

-Anthony

The mail order price will be much lower. I just ordered several roles.
Each role of 36 exp. costs $6.79 from B&H. The expiration date of the film is
Dec. 93.

/*********************************v**********************************\
| GREENMAN -                      |  Think about blue                |
|   io92112@maine.maine.edu       |                                  |
|   My mouth belongs to me only   | " Blue is better - "             |
\*********************************^**********************************/
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: hchong@netcom.com (Hoi Chong)
Subject: Re: SPORTS ILLUSTRATED SWIMSUIT ISSUE: What Camera/lens?
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 92 15:42:43 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 

From article <KRAZYKID.92Jul30171713@pub2.nntp-read.bu.edu>, by krazykid@pub2.nntp-read.bu.edu (Ernest Kim):
> In article <1992Jul30.204618.20171@clark.edu> gsnow@clark.edu (Gary Snow) writes:
> 
>>  In article <n2pmqs=.hchong@netcom.com> hchong@netcom.com (Hoi Chong) writes:
>>  >> 
>>  >> You see, the world doesn't always belong to Nikon.
>>  >
>>  >Oh yeah?  I got one for you.  Canon cameras are made of plastic (so I was
>>  >told). 
> 
>>  So are bullet proof windows....:-)
> 
>>  Gary
> 
> Oh what the heck.  But the windows are at least a couple of inches
> thick.  :)

So, assuming that both the bullet proof windows and Canon bodies and made
of the same plastic (which I doubt), then a 35mm Canon has to be 
6"x10"x8" (thickness x width x height)!  But darn, it is still very light! 
From: bob@hpwin052.uksr.hp.com (Bob Easton)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 12:16:42 GMT
Subject: Re: Wanted: A light table or slide sorting recommendations
Organization: HP Response Centre, Berkshire, England.
Newsgroups: rec.photo

/ hpwin052:rec.photo / chris@fnbc.com (Chris Toczycki) /  2:29 pm  Jul 20, 1992 /
|
|
|Oh!  Do I need a loupe?  If so, can you recommend power and make?
|

If you'll only be using it occassionally, try using a std 50mm lens as a
loupe. Take it off the camera and rest the filter end on the slide
mount. You may want to chop the centre out of a lens cap to protect the
mount and linkages. The results are way better than any plastic loupe.

Bob
From: David.Dyer-Bennet@p0.f341.n282.z1.FIDONET.ORG (David Dyer-Bennet)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Long lenses
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 92 20:31:14 cst
Organization: FidoNet node 1:282/341.0 - Terraboard, Minneapolis MN

 AK> Don't bother with 300mm unless you're prepared to bring a tripod too,
 AK> and use it.  My tests at shorter focal lengths lead me to believe that
 AK> anyone who claims to be able to hand-hold a 300mm lens, even at 1/500,
 AK> is either lying or has low quality standards.  At some point I will
 AK> try it myself and then I'll know for sure.

I must have low quality standards.  I hadn't previously suspected it,
though.

On the other hand, there are alternatives other than hand or tripod.
I've had very good luck using a beanbag on a solid base (like a rock
wall) or even a wadded up jacket to suppport a lens for a long
exposure relative to the focal length.  I've gotten some very nice
results in zoos with a 500mm lens supported on beanbag on the stone
walls surrounding the environment pits the animals are in, for
example.  And a lot of good shots in churches and cathedrals taken
cuddled up to the side of those nice stone pillars (typically 24mm,
f5.6, a couple of seconds).

--  
David Dyer-Bennet -- Via FidoNet using ufgate at 1:282/341
INTERNET: David.Dyer-Bennet@p0.f341.n282.z1.FIDONET.ORG
UUCP: ...uunet!tcnet!lynxds!terrabit!341.0!David.Dyer-Bennet
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: donl@glass.esd.sgi.com (donl mathis)
Subject: Re: Leica screwmount lenses as enlarger lenses
Reply-To: donl@glass.esd.sgi.com (donl mathis)
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc., Mountain View, CA, USA
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1992 01:06:50 GMT


In article <84886@netnews.upenn.edu>, liang@saul.cis.upenn.edu (Chuck
Liang) writes:

|>   I've heard for some time that some camera lenses can also be used as
|> enlarger lenses.  Recently I got a leica 3 and a 50mm f3.5 leitz Elmar lens 
|> and found that the lens screws perfectly into my enlarger (Durst
|> M601).  I set the lens to infinity, stopped down to f5.6 and made a
|> print with the same exposure time I would use with my regular lens,
|> and the print came out fine - it was quite sharp, even though the
|> old Elmar lens is slightly foggy.
|> 
|>   I was wondering if anybody else has used leica screwmount lenses as
|> enlarger lenses and know what the exact story is.  If I get a 50mm
|> summacron lens, would the superb quality of this lens be preserved
|> when I use it for enlarging?  And dare I use the f2 aperture?  I don't
|> see any enlarger lenses available today with aperture larger than
|> f2.8.  

Some opinions, that's all:

What problems are you trying to solve?  If you find yourself making
prints with the enlarger lens wide open, is it because your negatives
are very dense, or your light source is too dim?  Abberations and depth
of focus, even with a high-quality lens, are not the best wide open; I
would only use an enlarging lens wide open in an extreme emergency.
You should be able to use it at f/8 with reasonable exposure times --
if not, the system needs tuning in some way.  I doubt if you're going
to always be able to keep everything in focus at f/2.

A camera lens is typically not optimized for working at such short
distances, which means it will not be as sharp as it would under normal
circumstances.  A macro lens might be more appropriate.

Camera lenses are also not typically optimized toward a flat field.
You may very well find that you cannot focus at the edges and in the
center at the same time.  Because of the geometry and direction of the
view, this is not such a big problem when making photographs, but
certainly is a problem when enlarging.

Why not invest in a high-quality APO enlarging lens?  You can spend as
much money as you want, and you'll get a good lens out of the deal.
There are some *excellent* enlarging lenses out there, and they have
flat fields and no distortion, and they work great for their intended
purposes.  The lens makers are not trying to put one over on you --
enlarging lenses really are different, and a decent designer will do a
good job of matching the lens to the intended purpose.

- donl mathis at Silicon Graphics Computer Systems, Mountain View, CA
donl@sgi.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: denny@tss.com (Denny Page)
Subject: Re: Lens shading (Re: Schneider and Rodenstock lenses)
Organization: Teknekron Software System, Inc.
	<bdTs03vr3dBu00@amdahl.uts.amdahl.com>
	<1992Jul21.181954.3578@pmafire.inel.gov>
	<1992Jul22.015546.18486@odin.corp.sgi.com>
Distribution: rec
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 20:08:58 GMT

>And this Geoff guy forced *me* to buy a hat, too.  Unbelievable.  "You
>need a hat," he says.

One less expense to worry about in my switch to large
format -- I already own a hat :-).

Denny
From: hchong@netcom.com (Hoi Chong)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: CWO no longer carries HOYA
Date: 30 Jul 92 17:41:40 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest)

From article <1992Jul28.000242.357@walter.bellcore.com>, by jchen@flash.bellcore.com (Jason Chen):
> In the past 6 months, I have done quite a few transactions with
> CWO, and including a few returns. Overall, there is no major problem.
> 
> The only thing that I am unhappy about is my filters purchases.
> In two separate orders, I specified Hoya filters. Without acknowledgement,
> they sent me Tiffin in stead. I returned them for exchange (called the
> customer service and paid the UPS at my expenses). That was three months
> ago. During this time, they told me a couple times that they would ship
> the "next" week.

Do us high-end amatuers (or low-end pros, ha, ha, ha) use protective
filters?  I did not know where I got the ideal (from here or books, or
magazines), but it says that one should not use protective filter if
possible, since it negate the performance of our high-end lens somewhat.
Since then, I have not used  any protective filter.  Any comments?
From: jake@bony1.bony.com (Jake Livni)
Subject: Re: Hama C-clamps
Organization: The Department of Redundancy Department
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 92 22:08:27 GMT

In article <1992Jul24.004726.18956@tandem.com> danp@tandem.com (Dan Phan) writes:

>Popular Photography has mentioned at least twice (I think) in recent
>months about the German-made Hama C-clamp, which can be screwed into
>a camera's standard tripod socket.  Has anyone ever used one of 
>these?  What are the pros and cons?  The camera stores in and 
>around the Bay area do not seem to have them.  Does anyone know 
>of a mail order place that carry this item?

I got 2 Metz clamps from 47th Street Photo long ago, as odds-and-ends 
items that they may not regularly stock.  I don't know if they are 
similar to the Hama ones (or perhaps identical, who knows?)

The Metz clamps I have are plastic (!) and have a removable metal piece
that converts it into a small table-top tripod.

The plastic construction makes it lightweight, which is great because 
I carry them with me on vacation day-trips instead of a tripod.  The 
ball-and-socket grip is not terribly strong so I don't use it with 
long lenses.

The reversible table-top-tripod piece is a bit of a pain to place or
remove after the clamp has been attached to the camera.  It can be done
easily enough, but it takes 30 seconds or so; not very quick.

I use them both as clamps and as small tripods for holding 2 Vivitar
285 flashes mounted on Wein slaves.  This is their other purpose in 
life and allows me to set up interesting lighting arrangements without
an assistant.  (I don't do this outdoors at night in NY City because 
I don't want my equipment to "walk" away...)

Overall, my Metz clamps are not terribly sturdy or quick to use but
they are small and light enough for me to carry around often and have
given me some shots that I wouldn't have gotten otherwise, at very 
little cost in effort.

-- 
Jake Livni  jake@bony1.bony.com               Pat Paulsen for President
American-Occupied New York                    This year he has a real chance!
My opinions only - employer has no opinions.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Amateur vs. Pro
From: Stafford@Vax2.Winona.MSUS.EDU (John)
Date: 31 Jul 92 15:14:33 -0600
Distribution: world
Organization: msus


In article <1992Jul27.183634.4539@clark.edu>, gsnow@clark.edu (Gary Snow) writes:
> One of the things that I am trying to get across here is the elitist type
> attitude that some places and/or people show towards what they regard as a
> non-pro.  If you can't get in to a certain event to take pictures, then
> how are you ever going to sell what you don't have, or can't get, simply
> because of stupid rules that try and separate some photographers from
> others. Its the old catch 22 syndrome.
> -----
> Gary Snow
> uunet!clark!gsnow  or  gsnow@clark.edu

Let's try to narrow the scope of this because I cannot tell if you are
talking of (for example) getting into the Republican or
Democratic National Convention, a Major League ball game, a press
converence, a prom, town hall meeting, someone's
bedroom or what!

In other words, public domain, private commercial domain, political
(public) domain or private.  This is important, Gary.

Please define 'certain event'.  Honestly, I'm not trying to diminish your
complaint.  I have years of experience (in my former career) as one of those
'privileged professionals' who has had access to the  events listed
above.  (Forget the private domain, eh?)
From: cheu@venus.its.uci.edu (Kelvin Cheu)
Subject: Re: 8008s = F801s
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Reply-To: cheu@venus.its.uci.edu (Kelvin Cheu)
Organization: University of California, Irvine
Distribution: rec.photo
Date: 22 Jul 92 05:47:17 GMT

In article <Jul21.234128.14679@yuma.ACNS.ColoState.EDU>, ntetsuya@lamar.ColoState.EDU (Nishimura) writes:
|> In article <1992Jul21.143015.8394@Informatik.TU-Muenchen.DE> hofmann@Informatik.TU-Muenchen.DE (Jenns Hofmann) writes:
|> >
|> >Here in Germany there is no 'Nikon 8008s',but I suppose it's exactly the
|> >same like the 'Nikon F801s' that is sold in Europe.
|> >Am I right ?
|> > 
|> 
|> Yes, you are right.  Besides in the home country of Nikon, there is no 8008s butF801S.  I don't know the reason but here is a quote from my friend's husband who is a Spanish: "American people must like big numbers."
|> 	(Please don't flame me!  I have no particular intention...)
|> 
|> 	Tetsuya Nishimura

I beg to differ, in Asia the Canon cameras are named EOS-1, 10, 100, 1000.
If American like big numbers, then Rebels and Elans will not be selling
like hot cakes.  One thing I like is the Minolta's marketing terms.  
Words like 'expert', 'smart', 'intelligent', 'fuzzy logic' etc are a
must for high tech product.  They make words like 'computer' (such words appears
in the 8008s manual too often) appears like obsolete technology.  Of course
this is just a marketing ploy.  We all know how a camera works.

By the way, I think Nikon should market F-801a or 8008s as 8888s in
East Asia.  To the Chinese, 8 sounds like prosper - making $ with photographs.
The should stop selling 4004 as 4 sounds like 'dead' or 'dying'.

Kelvin Cheu
From: shun@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (shun.cheung)
Subject: Re: Long lenses
Organization: AT&T
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 1992 15:55:48 GMT

IMHO there is a missing element in the discussion of hand-holding
long lenses: what type of sharpness one demands. A slide which
looks very sharp could actually be unsharp on a light table with
a high-quality lope.
-- 
-- Shun Cheung,    electronic: shun.cheung@att.com    voice: (908) 615-5135
     HR 1A-304, AT&T Bell Labs, 480 Red Hill Road, Middletown, NJ, 07748 USA
From: jacobson@cello.hpl.hp.com (David Jacobson)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Rangefinder calibration
Date: 27 Jul 92 16:50:56 GMT
Article-I.D.: cello.1992Jul27.165056.16766
Distribution: na
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories

In article <4603@daily-planet.concordia.ca> honna@concour.cs.concordia.ca (SEGEL honna) writes:
>I have a number of questions for the net oracles:
> I have a rangefinder whose super-posed images are coincident through-
>out the focussing range(that is, for a given subject at successively different
>distances, the two images can be made to perfectly coincide).  The trouble is
>that the lens barrel distance reading doesn't jibe with the measured distance
>when the images do coincide; using the rangefinder as is, and assuming that 
>the distance markings on the barrel are as accurate as can be expected, I end
>up focussing on a plane short of the measured distance to the subject.e
>
> I want to re-calibrate the range-finder.  I'm not shy about the surgery.
>I need to know a few things about range-finders generally, and about my 
>situation particularly, to do my calibration.

I would not worry about the focusing scale.  What you care about is
what is happening at the film plane.  Carefully inspect photos you've
taken where you can see objects at a range of distances near the
subject distance.  Does it look as though it is consistently foucusing
too close or too far away?  If not, don't touch it.

Also, note that even though in physics class you measured distance to
the lens, the distance scales on most camera lenses seem to be
calibrated in distance to the film plane.

> Do I, when it comes down to it, place the near focussing distance and let
>the infinity focus 'fall' where it may, or do the reverse?

Make infinity be right.  On the only rangefinder camera I ever took
apart (an old Argus C-3) there was only once adjustment.  So you could
get one point right.  The rest was determined by a cam.

>HS/MT
>--
>***************************************************************
>honna segel

  -- David Jacobson