From: mstephens.520@postman.gsfc.nasa.gov (mark stephens)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Plant Tank Questions .... again ....
Date: 17 Apr 92 17:06:37 GMT
Organization: nasa/gsfc

Hey!  Now that I'm _such_ and expert...

In article <1992Apr17.080310.8609@news.cso.uiuc.edu>, erno@mrcnext.cso.uiuc.edu (Erno Pena) writes:
> 
> First, thanks to George, Mark, and everyone else who sent me their collection  
> of Plant Tanks Articles. Because of that, I now have new questions.
> 
> 1. Would the Actinic Day fluorescent bulbs for marine reef tanks be  
> especially advantageous in a FW plant tank?

Don't know; doesn't sound like a bad idea.  I know Vinny mixes bulbs...

> 
> 2. What exactly constitutes a CO2 fertilizer system? As far as I can tell,  
> the absolute bare bones system include the CO2 bottle, a regulator with a  
> tank pressure gauge and a line pressure gauge, a fine control needle valve,  
> strong walled air tubing, and a bubble counter. For bare bones, the CO2 would  
> be injected into the intake of a cannister filter. For the more advanced  
> system, you would have a CO2 reactor in which the CO2 is injected. Do I have  
> this right? How much does all of this cost?

Yep, your bare bones system is basically correct.  Typically, the "two-stage" 
regulator contains gages for the bottle & line.  You don't need a very "hi" pressure
line as the PSIG should be under 10.  You do need a CO2 resistent material. I
use the green colored silicon air tubing, which you can get mail order.  For
the Washington D.C. area prices were (apx):
           20 lb bottle                $80  ($60 for a 10 lb)
           regulator                   $35  (plastic gages, $70 gets metal)
           needle valve                $40   (includes two fittings for hose connections)
           tubing                    cheap compaired to above
           bubble counter            "free" as I made it out of a jar
I think the bubble counter can easily be made out of a large piece of clear plastic 
tubing, flexable or otherwise.  Since I susspect the jar of leaking, this is on
my project hit list (along with 1001 others!).

> 
> 3. I had plans of mixing laterite, canadian peat moss, and rich dark topsoil  
> for the lower half of the substrate. After reading some of the articles, I'm  
> beginning to get the idea that the soil would leach extra nutrients into the  
> water and cause an algae bloom and even change the pH. Would adding soil to  
> the substrate really do this?

I had a 30 gallon with soil below the gravel.  It was a "one shot" deal in that
I did not intend to move a plant unless the tank were to be torn down.  This
was intentional as I was wintering over some non-hardy plants from the pond outside.
Work real well.  But, as expected, when the lilly was uprooted, all hell broke loose
in the tank.  Dirt was everywhere.  

In the 75 gal I used only laterite.  Laterite has not done the above during the three 
big replantings I've done to my tank.  I don't think peat would be a big problem
as it won't cloud the water to the same extent as dirt.  I've started using 
plant tablets for extra fertilizer.

> 
> 4. Some of the articles sent to me mention getting chemicals from a  
> hydroponics supply house. Does anyone have experience with supplies from  
> there? Is it safe for aquariums? If so, please email or post the addresses  
> and phone numbers of some of the better companies.

Hatch.  Very safe if you get the chemicals (like don't put arsenic in there, right?).
I purchased them but don't need to use them as much as I first thought.  My 
tap water turns out to be 4 dH for both KH and GH and I'm adding a little 
Epsom salts (from the drug store, shocking!) to bring the hardness up a tad but
mainly to supply magnesium.

> 
> 5. Many recommended Delaware Aquatics and Mike T. as THE place to get plants  
> mail order. Is there anyone else?

Don't know.

> 
> 6. For a 30 gallon tank, would 2-36" bulbs provide enough lighting?

Probably not, unless you wanted to grow Anubias and similar low light loving plants.
I'm assuming most of the bunch and Ech. need plenty of light.

> 
> Thanks again for your responses.
> 

Sure, and good luck.
> --
> 
> E r n e s t o   F.   B.   P e n a      |     "Volite Magis,
> ................................      |      Facite Magis,
> erno@uiuc.edu   NeXTmail accepted      |      Estote Magis."
> 
> 
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