HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: kvk@questor.sw.stratus.com (Ken Koellner)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: sources for moss?
Date: 25 Jan 1993 19:32:11 GMT
Organization: Stratus Computer, Software Engineering
NNTP-Posting-Host: questor.sw.stratus.com

>
> Where can I buy moss spores or plants?
>

You can get moss spores at a Bonsai special shop or mail-order catalog.

-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"Maybe he's just a little insane, like painters or composers."
							-Miracle on 34th Street
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: cl27111@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Christopher  Lindsey)
Subject: Re: Edible Flowers
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1993 12:43:18 GMT

	If I remember correctly, the flowers of Cercis canadensis, or
eastern redbud are also edible...  They look really neat on a salad...

Chris
From: ai888@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Thomas Flesher)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: annuals that don't need "dead-heading"?
Date: 22 Jan 1993 17:42:07 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: ai888@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Thomas Flesher)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc4.ins.cwru.edu


What annuals will keep blooming without the removal of spent flowers? 
I know about impatiens; are there others?
From: gellmore@pearl.tufts.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: RE Wall o' Water, again
Date: 22 Jan 93 22:52:47 GMT
Organization: Tufts University - Medford, MA

Take that wall o' water MUCH more seriously than to use it to give you an
extra WEEK. I have used it to plant 3-4 WEEKS before final frost (April 20
in my part of Boston). Indeed, I plant Early Girl tomatoes indoors at the 
end of February, let them grow until late March, then put them OUTside under
those silly-looking teepees. I've done this for two years, and have YET to
lose a plant. The closest I get to losing plants is in SCALDING them when the
sun comes out, if I haven't opened up the top of the Wall o water teepees.

Three weeks easy, for tomatoes. Peppers, maybe two weeks, since you don't bury
them as deeply in soil. 

Remember to put the Wall 'o Water over the plant's spot for one week BEFORE
planting. It will warm and soften the soil.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: clarke@acheron.UUCP (Ed Clarke/10240000)
Subject: Re: Q: Cost of starting seeds indoors
Keywords: seeds, light table
Reply-To: clarke@acheron.UUCP
Organization: Ciliophora Associates
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 02:22:18 GMT

In article <1jut5tINNirr@srvr1.engin.umich.edu>, wondering writes:
|>I realize that this depends on the wattage of my lights and how 
|> long per day the lights are on, but I'm not even sure what would 
|> be a good level for these. 

Use at least two shop lites ( 4 bulbs total ).  This comes out to
160 watts * 10 hours = 1.6kwh/day * 30 days = 48 kwh/month.  In my
unfortunate situation, this is 12 cents/kwh or $5.76 per month.

Add in the cost of the timer - suitable for fluorescent lights - is
about $19, two shop lights at $10 each, and four or five dollars for
bulbs.   If you want bottom heat, you can add this for about $90 in
equiptment and $7.80 in electricity per month.

The equiptment cost is fixed, you can use all but the bulbs next year.
From: mcg2@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (Marc Gabriel)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: New listserv group - LymeNet
Date: 23 Jan 93 22:53:38 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

Introducing...

******************************************************************************
*                The Lyme Disease Electronic Mail Network                    *
*                               LymeNet                                      *
******************************************************************************

Lyme Disease is now the fastest growing infectious disease in the United
States.  In 10 short years, this little known bacterial infection has claimed
half a million victims and the number of new patients continues to spiral
upward with no relief in sight.  It is estimated that in 1991, 100,000
Americans contracted this dangerous disease.  If left untreated, LD can cause
permanent nerve, musculoskeletal and cardiac damage.

Unfortunately, many in the medical and political arenas have not given this
epidemic much thought.  Self appointed experts in the academic community have
declared that LD can always be cured with short courses of simple antibiotics.
However, as the number of cases rise, doctors on the front lines are
discovering that LD is more serious that previously suspected, requiring longer
treatment therapies and more complex combinations of medicines.  The battle
lines have been drawn.

And the battles continue at LD conferences, and in the various State
legislatures where insurance companies, terrified at the high cost of LD, are
attempting to short change patients.  Estimates show that the average cost of
treatment for chronic LD patients ranges from $60,000 to $100,000 per patient.

MAILING LIST:
To keep up with the latest developments, including new treatment protocols,
research news and political events, we introduce the Lyme Disease Electronic
Mail Network.  LymeNet, in association with the Lyme Disease Network of New
Jersey, Inc., with provide you with a periodic newsletter with the latest
information.  All you need is an Internet- accessible e-mail address.

INTERESTED INDIVIDUALS INCLUDE:
      * LD patients
      * Friends or family of LD patients, who may wish to forward the
        newsletter to an LD patient
      * Interested members of the medical community
      * Interested members of the press


To subscribe, send a memo to Internet address  listserv@Lehigh.EDU
In the body type:

subscribe LymeNet-L <Your Real Name>

Please send problem reports to mcg2@Lehigh.EDU.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: rreid@rreid.mentorg.com (Richard Reid)
Subject: Lot's of Questions
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 16:17:28 GMT
Organization: mentor
Keywords: Calerodendum, Frost peach and others
Followup-To: 


Okay, My wife and I are slowly sifting through the seed, nursery and garden
catalogs after the kids go down.  I never thought newsprinted sales rags 
would keep me up till midnight.  But being the Cheapskates we are, I began 
to plot not how to purchase the goods but how to find someone who has one
that they may wish to propagate.

So I call my dad.

Total score:  A bunch of scion for a Frost Peach and a sucker from a
              Calerodendrum (sp?)

Here are my questions:  Can I graft the Frost Peach to Dwarf Root Stoke?  Which
			one is best? 

			Whats a Calerodendrum? Is it posionist? 

We are in the Maritime NorthWest zone 6.

Thanks
rick

-- 
Rick Reid 		
richard_reid@fpd.mentorg.com  -- Mentor Graphics Corporation
"Is it cold their?  It is here, our breath is white."
	--letter from a friend in Kobe
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: air@cs.cmu.edu (Alex Rudnicky)
Subject: Re: RE: Lilac pruning
Organization: School of Computer Science, Carnegie Mellon
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 23:12:05 GMT

In article <1993Jan25.142358.1@pearl.tufts.edu> gellmore@pearl.tufts.edu  
writes:
> 
> To prune (YES, winter is dormant season, get it done before March!), saw 
> EVERY thing down EXCEPT 4 or 5 main trunks. That will get rid of the
> excessive bushiness. Then on the remaining 4-5 main trunks, if growth
> is too high, cut off the top on third. Yep, it'll look like a flat top, but
> flowers will bloom from branches that begin to form this Spring.
> 

Don't do it!  This is *wrong*.  Lilac blooms on old wood; if you prune now you  
won't see any flowers until 1994.

Prune after the flowering season.  When you prune, get rid of the oldest wood,  
or in any case cut it down to about 6' (new branches will emerge from it, if  
it's not too old).  Your goal is to replace the oldest wood with younger, more  
vigorous growth.  You might consider cutting off the youngest shoots as well,  
to tidy up the bush and concentrate its energy in shoots closer to flowering  
age.

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: jefftb@sr.hp.com (Jeff Brown)
Subject: Raised Beds on leach lines. 
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 16:52:06 GMT
Organization: HP Sonoma County (SRSD/MWTD/MID)
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.9 PL6]

 

 Does anyoone one in net land see a problem with putting in raised bed for       vegies on my septic system leach feild. I'm not going to cover the tank 
 or any distribution boxes. The lines are fairly deep (3-4  feet) and 
 go deeper from there.

 The beds will be 12" high.
 Thanks
 Jeff Brown

Newsgroups: rec.gardens,misc.consumers.house
From: cl27111@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Christopher  Lindsey)
Subject: Re: AutoDesk Landscaping Computer Program
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 00:01:31 GMT

tvervaek@col.hp.com (Tom Vervaeke) writes:


>		      Rel 12 AutoCAD/LandCADD
>				     ^
>				     |
>				     Here's what I thought was
>				     interesting. Has anyone ever heard
>				     of LandCADD?

	LandCADD is put out by LandCADD International and uses AutoCad as
a shell...  Basically, it has features such as irrigation design, a plant
database, growth simulation for plantings, contour mapping, etc...  It's
pretty expensive though; I wouldn't pay the $5000+ that they ask for it...
I think it's highly overpriced for the simple features that it offers, most
of which will end up limiting the designer anyhow (i.e. pre-drawn construction
details will only serve to stifle the landscape architect's creativity; who
wants every piece of playground equipment to look the same?)

Oh well...  I'm babbling...

Chris
From: diane@thirdi.uucp (Diane Butler)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Looking for a Rose
Date: 25 Jan 93 19:15:42 GMT
Reply-To: diane@thirdi.UUCP (Diane Butler)
Distribution: ba
Organization: Third Eye Software, Menlo Park, CA


In article <1jmpbuINN9s4@morrow.stanford.edu> HF.SXM@forsythe.stanford.edu
(Sara MacGilvra) writes:
...
>Could anyone guide me as to where to find a hybrid (I think) rose
>named Whisky Mac.

I'd check Yamagami's on Saratoga-Sunnyvale Road in San Jose (or it might
still be DeAnza Boulevard in Cupertino at that point).  They have a great
rose selection.  If they don't have it, I'd check Wayside Gardens.  I'm
almost positive Wayside carries it.

Diane
From: Bob.Batson@mtask.omahug.org (Bob Batson)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: a question about seeds
Date: 22 Jan 93 17:29:26 CST
Reply-To: bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org
Organization: Multitasking Systems, Kansas City
Followup-To: rec.gardens

edmund@HQ.Ileaf.COM (Ed Rucker) writes:

 > On the subject of seeds and state boundaries, I have a seedpod from
 > a "bat plant" (Tacca sp.) that mysteriously appeared in my luggage :-)
 > in Hawaii. ................................................

I can't help you with this plant - sorry.

 > 
 > 2nd question, I loved the native Hawaiian gardenias that are
 > endangered and prohibited from export.  The blooms are snow white
 > and crepe-paper textured, not creamy and fleshy like the domestic
 > gardenias, and powerfully fragrant.  Anyone know of a mainland source?

From the individual descriptions of the following mail-order companies in
_CORNUCOPIA: A Source Book of Edible Plants_ by Stephen Facciola (ISBN
0-9628087-0-9), they're POTENTIAL sources. Since their catalogs aren't
free, I suggest you write or telephone them.

        THE BANANA TREE                         [CAT - $2]
        715 Northampton St.                     [MIN. ORD. - $6.50]
        Easton, PA 18042
        (215) 253-9589
--------
        HUROV'S TROPICAL SEEDS                  [CAT - $1]
        P.O. Box 1596
        Chula Vista, CA 92012
        (619) 426-0091



*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*

Bob Batson
bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org

Xref: sparky rec.gardens:9225 misc.consumers.house:17419
From: tvervaek@col.hp.com (Tom Vervaeke)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens,misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: AutoDesk Landscaping Computer Program
Date: 26 Jan 93 16:10:47 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division
NNTP-Posting-Host: itchub21.cs.itc.hp.com


Don't have a direct answer to that one. However, we're getting ready to
do some landscaping of our new home this spring and summer. Was looking
through the local yellow pages under Landscape Architects, not
Landscapers (we want to have someone give us design ideas first before
starting some work). One ad listed the person as follows:

		 Guman/Hackworth Associates LTD

		    Planning, Landscape Architecture
		    Certified Irrigation System Design

		      Rel 12 AutoCAD/LandCADD

				     ^
				     |

				     Here's what I thought was
				     interesting. Has anyone ever heard
				     of LandCADD?




( ___ )------------------------------------------------------------( ___ )
 | / | Tom Vervaeke           Email:tom_vervaeke@hp0800.desk.hp.com | \ |
 | / | Technology Specialist  Snail: 1900 Garden of the Gods Rd.    | \ |
 | / | Hewlett Packard Co.           Colorado Springs, CO 80901     | \ |
 | / | Colorado Springs, CO   Voice    : 719-590-2133               | \ |
 | / | USA                    Fax      : 719-590-2117               | \ |
 | / |--------------------------------------------------------------| \ |
 | / | Quote of the week...                                         | \ |
 |___|           Quote deleted do to lack of creativity !!!         |___|
(_____)------------------------------------------------------------(_____)
   ^                                                                  ^
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: london@sunSITE.unc.edu (Larry London)
Subject: Re: Tell me all you know...
Organization: University of North Carolina, Chapel Hill
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 21:43:23 GMT

In article <1993Jan25.154202.11567@cbfsb.cb.att.com> 
djd@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (david.j.daulton) writes:

>One of the parks's staff members recently asked me how they might go about
>using the park's PC (used to print the volunteer newsletters, to
>keep track of volunteer hours, etc.) to access gardening bulletin boards,
>such as rec.gardens.

Buy a U.S. Robotics or a Zyxel external 9600baud V32bis FAXModem (about $350
or less by mail order), attach it to your PC and call:
1-919-9629911
      9629921
      9629931
      9629941
in Chapel Hill, North Carolina, U.S.A.

for free access to LaUNChpad (an experimental BBS operated at the
University of North Carolina). With registration (just fill out a simple 
form and smail it back to the administrator) you get read/write access
to Usenet newsgroups and Internet E-mail; without registration you get
read only access to newsgroups. Other features and services are available
there such as WAIS and access to library card catalogues.

This is a good option if you can afford the long distance telco charges.
Other options include many other dial-up public-access Internet sites,
some free, some not: NYX-public access (Denver), a system in Seattle, Wash.,
Cleveland Freenet (and other Freenets), DELPHI.

Data areas maintained here at sunSITE.unc.edu and WAIS-searchable from
LaUNChpad are:

FTP directories: ftp sunsite.unc.edu

pub/academic/medicine/alternative-healthcare
pub/academic/agriculture/sustainable_agriculture
                        /nc_botanical_garden
                        /agronomy
                        /nc_cooperative_extension
                        /ncat-attra
                        /national_agricultural_library

You might also enjoy the alt.sustainable.agriculture newsgroup.

Let me know if you need any more information.

Lawrence
london@sunsite.unc.edu


Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: AVRK90@waccvm.corp.mot.com (Kevin Cox)
Subject: Re: Seed germination for tropical plants
Organization: Motorola
Date: 25 Jan 1993 23:37:07 MST

Just this past year I've started Giant Bird of Paradise & Passion Fruit.
Granted I did it during the summer while it was warm (hot actually!), but
I live in the Phoenix area where the humidity is QUITE low.  So, from
experience, it doesn't take a lot of humidity to germinate them.  Looks
like there have been several other posts on how too keep them warm.  It
takes quite a while to germinate the Passion Fruit, the Birds of Paradise
even longer (they are the black seeds with an orange fuzzy on it right?)
and the banana I have no idea.  So don't give up if the seeds don't
sprout as soon as they hit the soil!  Good luck.

Regards,
Kevin
From: ceb@dbrus.Unify.Com (Caroline E. Bryan)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Edible Flowers
Date: 27 Jan 93 20:49:51 GMT
Organization: /usr/lib/news/organization

In article <1993Jan26.034728.10847@nicmad.uucp> nicmad!klebba%astroatc.uucp@spool.cs.wisc.edu (Bob Klebba) writes:
>I spice up my green salads in the summer with a bunch of different
>flowers:
>	anise hyssop
>	...
>The anise hyssop adds the most flavor and blooms for a long time.

Yeah, for up to two weeks after you eat it.

Sorry (not really), couldn't resist (really).


Carrie		ceb@rechenau.unify.com	x6244
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------------+
|   "With the force of ten billion butterfly sneezes"    - The Moody Blues    |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: moroney@world.std.com (Michael Moroney)
Subject: Re: Edible Flowers
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 23:13:31 GMT

Daylilies are edible.  The flower buds are sometimes used in Chinese food.
That's all I know.

-Mike
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: Bob Klebba <nicmad!klebba%astroatc.uucp@spool.cs.wisc.edu>
Subject: Re: Moving Asparagus Patch ??
Organization: Nicolet Instrument Corporation
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 20:00:17 GMT

In article <C15t8C.8Fx@plato.ds.boeing.com> Matt Baney,
mattb@plato.ds.boeing.com writes:
>I originally planted 8 roots(?) two years ago.  Will I be
>able to move them successfully?  Will asparagus grow in 
>a container?  Are there any hints/tricks I should know
>about?

I dug up a couple of asparagus crowns that were about 3 years old (seed
grown).  I found the roots that radiate from the crown were between 18 &
24" long and not too many had gone down into the soil.  

I would treat the plants like a big shrub.  Dig a deep trench 18" away
from the crowns on both sides and lift up from underneath with a garden
fork.  You will save yourself some seasons in establishing a new bed with
these plants, but you will spend a lot of time digging them out.

Bob Klebba
Madison, Wisconsin, USDA zone 4
Inet: nicmad!klebba%astroatc.uucp@spool.cs.wisc.edu
"Feed the soil, not the plant"
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: ramirez@julia.math.ucla.edu (Alice Ramirez)
Subject: If I could plant only one thing
Organization: UCLA Mathematics Department
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 93 22:02:45 GMT

If I could plant only one thing this year, or any year, it would be
either a plum or apricot tree, whichever variety was self-fertile and
known to do well in my climate.  There is no comparison between those
hard, taste-free things you buy in the market that were picked green and
shipped, and the soft, rather decadent, sun-ripened, soft, sweet
fruits you pick tree-ripened.  

Third choice would be a fig tree for the same reason. Store-bought fresh 
figs to be watery and tasteless compared to one picked dead-ripe and filled
with fig nectar.  The only reason why fig comes in third is because I 
SLIGHTLY prefer plums and apricots to figs.

It would come down to what grew best in the microclimate and the 
horticultural effect I wanted to create.

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: billmc@microsoft.com (Bill McJohn)
Subject: Re: If you could only plant one thing
Date: 23 Jan 93 05:24:36 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corporation

In article <1993Jan21.183939.7941@mcc.com> breland@cobweb.mcc.com writes:
>I'm curious as to what other
>folks feel they absolutely can't live without, so how about it?
>
Japanese anemones (Anemone x hybrida, especially 'Honorine Jobert').
Well, I could live without them, but I would certainly miss them.

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: psmith@alfred.carleton.ca (Peter Smith)
Subject: Re: Canadian catalogues - list
Organization: Carleton University
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 14:17:26 GMT

One catalogue I didn't notice in your list is:
 
   Richter's
   Goodwood, Ont.
   L0C 1A0

This is a must for herb growers.
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: houseplants for dark corners?
Date: 22 Jan 93 16:39:32 -0600
Organization: University of Northern Iowa


In article <1jmtkfINN834@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>, ai888@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Thomas Flesher) writes:
> 
> Are there any houseplants that will do well with little or no direct sunlight?

Cast-iron plant (Aspidistra elatior) and Peace Lily (Aglaeonema modestum)
will survive low light conditions, as will Devil's ivy (Sciandapsis aureus)
and heartleaf philodendron (Philodendron selloum).  But if there isn't enough
light to read a newspaper, even these toughies will have trouble.

Kay Klier  Biology Dept  UNI
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: ramirez@julia.math.ucla.edu (Alice Ramirez)
Subject: maintaining humidity when germinating tropicals
Organization: UCLA Mathematics Department
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 93 15:31:00 GMT

For maintaining humidity when germinating tropical seeds, a 
passionfruit specialist of my acquaintance puts the seed trays
in a sweaterbox (one of those clear plastic with an opaque lid)

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: naomi@anasazi.com (Naomi Walker)
Subject: Re: Need Info On Artificial Ponds
Organization: Anasazi Inc Phx Az USA
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 16:48:57 GMT

In article <1993Jan27.173844.10492@nlm.nih.gov> brandon@caldonia.nlm.nih.gov (Brandon Brylawski) writes:
>Hello, can anyone answer some questions about menmade ponds? I am considering a plan
>for my backyard that includes an 8' pond with a small waterfall. I would like if
>possible to keep koi or another suitable fish. In this regard:
Hi Brandon.  I have had a manmade pond in my yard for years, so maybe I can
help a little.  My pond is about a 15 foot circle, with a large waterfall.

>
>1. Should the pond be in sun or shade, and what differences will it make? I understand
>that water plants do best in sun, and many fish like water plants. Any thoughts?
My pond is not in the shade.  I believe the price I pay is dealing with more
algae.   I have had so many problems with real plants adding diseases to my
pond, that a few years ago I switch to fake ones.  Covered with algae they
look very real.  The current concensus is that real plants compete for oxygen
in the water, and help keep algae down.  I could not detect a real difference.

>
>2. What fish do well in small manmade ponds? 
I have Koi, catfish, and goldfish in my pond, and they have done exceedingly
well year round (I live in Phoenix).  My bigger koi are now around 2 foot long,
and fat and gorgeous.  My new babies are growing like weeds.  When I first
set up the pond, I threw in gray feeder goldfish (.20 a piece), to see how they 
did.  The little suckers grew like wildfire, and turned orange and white and
black.  The moral there, I guess, is that you dont have to spend a lot of money
to have nice fish.  I also tossed in a couple of baby catfish I caught at
the lake.  They are happyily growing away as well.

>What maintenance do they require for
>best health, and how often must they be fed?
My only pond maintenance is cleaning the filters and pump on the pond. 
Occasionally, when the algae get bad, I drain a bunch of water, add some
algae-gone type product (mail order is *much* cheaper), and thats it.

I feed the fish trout-chow (~2.00/lb) mixed with koi pellets.  In the winter,
I probably toss in a few handfulls about two times a week.  In the summer,
I feed them every day.

>
>3. Are there any special caveats to installation and maintenance the I should know 
>about?
My best advice is to have the pump screen easily accessible, because thats
where you will spend most of your maintenance time.

Please feel free to write me if you want to discuss this any further.  I
love my pond, and can listen to the water for hours at end.
>


-- 
  Naomi Walker  (aka N7FSA)
  Anasazi Inc.  Phoenix, Arizona 602-395-1731

  {uunet!pyramid},{sun!sunburn!gtx!},{asuvax} !anasaz!qip!naomi 
Newsgroups: rec.gardens