HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: DEVILBISS@OCTAVE.LARC.NASA.GOV (Zaphod Beeblebrox)
Subject: Re: Exhaust Manifold Stud Removal
Reply-To: DEVILBISS@OCTAVE.LARC.NASA.GOV (Zaphod Beeblebrox)
Organization: NASA Langley Research Center, Hampton, VA USA
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 12:21:47 GMT

You might try two nuts tightened up against each other on the stud.  Use a
wrench on the bottom one.  It worked for the studs on my water pump but 
they were not as corroded as those on an exhaust manifold.  Also, heat must 
be applyed. . . Dave

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
        If we were not crazy, we would go insane.
        If we could not laugh, we would go insane!     J. Buffett
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
From: wpcallah@RWASIC17.AUD.ALCATEL.COM (William Paul Callahan)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: DOT3 -> DOT5, how messey ?
Date: 4 Sep 92 18:01:48 GMT
Article-I.D.: rwasic17.9209041801.AA00552

I am considering conversion to DOT5 brake fluid. I am looking for a higher 
viscosity fluid, and I suspect Silicone is a tad more viscus.  DOT5 is not 
compatible with 3, or 4; so how clean does the system be prior to the 
introduction of the 5.  Can I empty the master cylinder, fill it with 5 and 
pump it into the system (this will be a 2 person job, opening the bleeder, 
depressing the brake, closing the bleeder, releasing the brake - repeat...).  
Or - do I have to use a solvent, change the rubbers in the system etc. ?

I can be reached at wpcallah@rwasic17.aud.alcatel.com, and maybe not as I can 
not get the server to send me anything back, so you might have to respond to 
the autos.tec.

Thanks, Paul
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: scott@zorch.SF-Bay.ORG (Scott Hazen Mueller)
Subject: Odd acceleration problem w/89 Chrysler LeBaron
Organization: SF-Bay Public-Access Unix
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1992 17:18:22 GMT

I'm having an odd problem with my 1989 Chrysler LeBaron.  I'm hoping for
pointers either to a solution, or to a competent (probably computer-literate)
mechanic in the South San Francisco Bay Area.

The car is the GTS (hatchback) model with the 4-cylinder turbo, automatic
transmission.  The problem is that when accelerating hard, such as to merge
onto a freeway, the car gets up to about 3500 RPM and then quits - it just
stops accelerating.  The RPMs drop to about 3000 or so, and the engine kicks
back in like nothing happened.  The effect on smoothness is unpleasant, to
say the least...  If I drop into neutral (e.g. at a stop light) and rev
the engine, it will go up to 5-6000 RPM with no problems.  Also, if I'm
accelerating gently, I can get the RPMs well past the 'critical' point.

From the drivability standpoint, this is a real nuisance, since I'll be
driving about 3000 miles starting next weekend, a few hundred of which will
be over 2-lane country roads, and I'd like to be able to make my passes
quickly and decisively.

Anyway, any suggestions on simple solutions (e.g. "there's an engine over-
speed set screw..." ) are welcome, as are recommendations for a mechanic
in my area that stands a chance of diagnosing what one friend thinks might
be an engine-computer problem.

I will be reading r.a.tech to scan for followups, but I'd prefer direct
email.  I will post a summary if one is warranted.

Thanks,

-- 
Moderator, news.admin.technical; submissions to natech@Zorch.SF-Bay.ORG.
Moderator, ba.announce; submissions to ba-announce@Zorch.SF-Bay.ORG.
Moderator, rec.arts.sf.announce; submissions to sf-announce@Zorch.SF-Bay.ORG.
SF-Bay Public-Access Unix 408-254-0246/1032/9882 login newuser password public
From: lockwood@acidqueen.Eng.Sun.COM (Jim Lockwood)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: GM 2.8L V6 oil leaks
Date: 3 Sep 1992 19:07:58 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Mt. View, Ca.
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: 129.146.12.28

In article <laamqiINNr3v@exodus.Eng.Sun.COM> wdh@oversteer.Eng.Sun.COM writes:
>In 1987 GM redesigned the cylinder head on the 2.8 (and also the 4.3-I think) 
>to raise the height of the casting where it meets the valve cover.  This enables 
>the gasket to be above the oil level.  The gasket is supposed to last longer 
>as it is not constantly submerged in the oil.  
>

This belongs in the "They just don't learn" department.

 In 1959 GM redesigned the cylinder head on the 283 (but perhaps nothing else)
 to raise the height of the casting where it meets the valve cover.  This enabled
 the gasket to be above the oil level.  The gasket was supposed to last longer
 as it was not constantly submerged in the oil.

:-)


Regards,

Jim Lockwood - KM6NK
lockwood@acidqueen.eng.sun.com
From: andrew@airs.com (Andrew Evans)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: '85 Subaru GL - replacing water pump gasket easy?
Date: 26 Aug 92 03:47:18 GMT

welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty) writes:

>someone wrote:
>>	"Naah. I never saw a water pump driven by the timing belt."

>early versions of the US market Ford Escort.

Audi five-cylinder motor.
-- 
Andrew Evans (andrew@airs.com) - Infinity Development Systems - Waltham, MA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: tomer@emav29.webo.dg.com
Subject: Re: TOYOTA's timing belts: easy to replace?
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 92 18:35:37 GMT
Organization: Data General Corp., Westborough, MA
Keywords: Celica chain
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech

In article <1992Aug25.063318.4454@u.washington.edu>, pmfisher@milton.u.washington.edu (Patrick Fisher) writes:
>
>	Are they easy to replace on a Toyota?  Does one need
>be a weekend auto mechanic to change one?  

    You don't say what model/year Toyota you drive.  My 1985 Celica GT
(2.4l, 22R-E FI engine) has a timing *chain* instead of a belt.  Just
thought I'd toss that data point into this thread.  Cars in my series
have rear wheel drive, probably improving ease of working on such things
a bit.

-- 
*  David M. Tomer            *   "What's so unpleasant about being     *
*  tomer@emav29.webo.dg.com  *   drunk?"  "You ask a glass of water."  *
*  (Data General Corp.)      *         - Douglas Adams, _THGTTG_       *
*  -- Disclaimer:  Speaking for myself, not Data General.          --  *
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dss@wdl1.wdl.loral.com (Daryl S Spano)
Subject: Smog laws in Wisconsin 
Organization: Loral Western Development Labs
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 17:03:53 GMT

I am considering moving to Wisconsin (from CA) and would appreciate any info
on smogging my car.  I realize that passing should not be a problem, but am
just wondering if it even gets smogged.  Is smog required every two years -
or just when the vehicle is sold.  Also do I need to smog it to get Wisconsin
plates?  While I am just rambling here - how about, do I even need to get
Wisconsin plates or register it in Wisconsin?


                                  Daryl
                                  dss@wdl1.wdl.loral.com

The views expressed herein are not the views of Loral or WDL.
They are just the misc. ramblings of an overworked/underpaid person looking
for an outlet to vent his frustrations.  None of the above should be considered
fact.  If your still reading this, you should have figured out it is another
dumb disclaimer and gave up. 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jory@athena.mit.edu (Jory Bell)
Subject: scout info: thanks
Followup-To: jory@mit.edu
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1992 01:43:32 GMT

I while back, I asked for info on scouts, and got a deluge of replies.
I just wanted to thanks everyone for their info. I was going to repost 
the collection of responses, but the file containing the info was killed, 
and I only have paper (eek!) and wasn't really excited about typing it in.
Anyway, thanks for all the great and informative responses.

			jory bell
From: oekelly@riemann.rice.edu (Owen Ernest Kelly)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: stripped oil plug hole
Date: 4 Sep 92 15:00:54 GMT
Organization: Rice University

I have done the unthinkable.

I have ripped the first few threads of the oil plug hole out of my oil pan.
I think I overtightened it last time I changed the oil, so this time
the plug refused to catch until some thread bits came out.  
An ugly scene to be sure.
The plug is in now and it leaks very slowly, a drop every 5 or 10 minutes.

My FEAR is that the plug will just fall out sometime.
What's the solution ?  Change the oilpan ?  
Is that expensive or difficult ?

Please send advice and a bushel of richly deserved flames 
directly to me at oekelly@rice.edu .

Owen I-thought-I-was-an-engineer Kelly
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: M20051@mwvm.mitre.org
Subject: Re: Clutch adjustment
Organization: The MITRE Corporation, McLean VA 22102
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 16:07:43 GMT

I used to own a Honda Accord with a hydraulic clutch, and it was definitely
adjustable (in addition to being able to bleed hydraulic fluid from the
lines).
There was an adjustment at the clutch arm where it comes out of the
transmission housing.  It adjusted the amount of freeplay between the
clutch arm and the hydraulic slave cylinder.  I think the freeplay was
supposed to be about 2.5mm and the adjustment was a nut on a threaded
shaft, with a second nut as a jamnut or locknut to lock the adjustment.
 
Up under the dash there was also an adjustment on the clutch master
cylinder, once again with a nut on a threaded shaft and a locknut.  The
clutch pedal stop was also adjustable, so you could adjust the height of
the pedal in the fully engaged position.
 
Take the Beretta to someone who really knows how the clutch works and let
them try and adjust it to your liking.  I think the hydraulic clutch should
give you more flexibility than a cable operated system, since most
cable-operated clutches only allow freeplay adjustment where the cable
connects to the clutch arm.
 
Bruce Carlson
carlson@mitre.org
In article <24522@oasys.dt.navy.mil>
samblane@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Sean Samblanet) writes:
 
>
>In rec.autos.tech, alter@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (Eric Alter) writes:
>:I just got an '88 Beretta GT (V6, 5 speed).  I don't particularly like the
>:action of the clutch as it takes very little to engage.  I'd like to back it of
>:f
>:(the pedal might travel and inch or 2 more before engaging) and am wondering ho
>:Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can change my clutch adjustment?
>
>    As another posting said I found the opposite to be true.  I owned
>the same car('88 beretta GT V6,5 speed) and did not like the clutch
>feel either.  I went to adjust the clutch but found out it has a hydraulic
>clutch which is supposed to be automatic adjusting.  If there is a way
>to adjust hydraulic clutches(not just bleed them)I would like to know
>how myself.
>
>:
>:Next question:  On the V6's, is there a trick to get to the spark plugs back
>:behind the engine next to the firewall?  I'm not sure I can get my arm/hand bac
>:there along with tools and be able to extract the plugs.
>
>    I basically laid on top of the engine to get to the back side.
>I remember 2 of the 3 were pretty easy but one takes some doing.  I
>just used the regular spark plug socket and ratchet.
>
>    Over all I really enjoyed the car.  I also have two extra wheels
>with Yokohama 008 tu(orRs) (soft compound race tires) that I used when
>I went to the race track for some driving schools.  If anyone wants
>them please email. Cheap. Also if anyone wants a helpful hint for this
>car please e-mail.
>
>Sean
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mvore@access.digex.com (Michael Vore)
Subject: Troubles with RODEO
Summary: Rodeo stalls - dealer no help
Keywords: stalling rodeo isuzu dangerous
Organization: Mid Atlantic Soaring Association, Fairfield Pa.
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 19:52:41 GMT

A few months ago I purchased a new 1992 ISUZU Rodeo ( the "4 wheel drive
Crayon" ) and except for one problem I've been happy with it.  It wants
to stall at random times, and always at a crucial time when stalling could
be fatal!!!

The scenerio: In almost any gear (manual transmission) if I come to a
condition where I take my foot off the gas, start to break.  Then decide to
shift down, depress the clutch.  At this point the engine _may_ stall.  If
I've taken it out of gear I have my hands full trying to get it back into
gear to 'pop the clutch' to restart the engine.  But within a few seconds
of the stalling I've lost steering and most of the power breaks.

I think this type of condition should have a fix, or a factory recall.

The dealer, Rosenthal ISUZU, in Gaithersburg, MD. can't (won't ??) fix it
The best they can do is to drill out a -plug on the carb and crank the idle
speed up so that the idle starts at about 2000 then _SLOWLY_ drops off to
about 1100.

What's the fix??  The service writer has said that this happens on other
ISUZI (ISUZUs ?) - troopers, trucks, etc...

- mike



-- 
/*------------------------------+----------------------------------------*/
  Mike Vore  W3CCV              |    DC - Food-SIG
    mvore@digex.com             |    Ka-8  MU at W73
    mvore@fedix.fie.com         |    Mid-Atlantic Soaring Association
/*------------------------------+----------------------------------------*/
From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: spark plug nightmare & warning.....
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 19:17:09 -0500

 SE> I added some silver solder to plug what I thought was a small
 SE> imperceptible radiator leak.OOPS!!! This *welded* the #2
 SE> spark plug into the Al head - broke in half at the threads.

Please explain. The "silver solder" I am familiar with is in the form of wire,
similar to lead/tin solder but having a different composition.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Advice needed on Windshield
From: asr_2@dac.mdcbbs.com
Date: 1 Sep 92 13:14:14 PST
Organization: MDC - Douglas Aircraft, Long Beach, CA
Nntp-Posting-User: mdhc

anyone got advice on if those windshield repair people are legit?
I saw ads saying that they can even fix long cracks in the windshield etc.
I  got a crack in the windshield from moron locksmith removing CLUB(STUCK)
from my wife's steering wheel.  the crack was about 3inches in 3 directions
 but has lengthened to about 8 inches long.  Doesnt seem to be deep though.
Any advice?
asim
       
From: bobpassl@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com (Bob Passell)
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 22:55:47 GMT
Subject: Re: Recommendations for Mini Van
Organization: Hewlett Packard - Boise, ID
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

Well, I can't resist another chance to warn off someone about the 
ASTRO/SAFARI. I owned an ASTRO (1986), it went through a lot of the problems 
described by the previous poster. I bought another (SAFARI flavored)
after 3 years to take advantage of ABS, AWD, extended body, bigger engine,
etc. Sold it after 6 months due to quality problems. In the shop every
2 weeks, sometimes the same problem, sometimes new problems. I couldn't take
it anymore. Wrote to GM, argued all the way up the food chain for 
replacement. No deal. I cut my losses and bought another vehicle from
another manufacturer. Your mileage may vary. Stellar feature-set on this
iron, but they couldn't deliver the goods. For a longer version of 
what went wrong with my ASTRO/SAFARI, send mail. Not for the faint of heart
though...

DISCLAIMER: None of the above represents the attitudes of my employer.
I am speaking for myself in a public forum.
From: emgg1058@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Matt Gaertner)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Anybody know how to remove a windshield?
Date: 3 Sep 92 16:09:52 GMT
Article-I.D.: news.Bu0FKI.4wB
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana



As the title says, Does anybody know how to remove a windshield?

Recently while loading some lumber into my car, a board fell and cracked my 
windshield. It has a nice spiderweb right in the center, about 9" in diameter.
The repair shop says that if I can provide one, it would only cost ~$55 for 
installation. My local junkyard is filled with escorts ( mine is an '84 ) but 
I've heard that removing one intact is pretty tricky.


Thanks for any help.

****************************************************************************

Matt Gaertner               Pardon my ignorance, but 
University of Illinois      
Urbana-Champaign            WHAT THE HELL DOES 'IMHO' MEAN?
emgg1058@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu   

****************************************************************************
From: forbesm@atlantis.CS.ORST.EDU (Mark Forbes)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Volvo performance parts - Where?
Date: 26 Aug 92 00:16:59 GMT
Organization: Computer Science Outreach Services - Oregon State University

hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987) writes:

>Dion Francois (dionf@ERE.UMontreal.CA) wrote:
>: Anybody knows where i could buy Volvo performance parts? (shocks, springs,
>: cams...) Any mail order places? I would prefer eastern States or eastern Canada.

>There is a company in Tulsa, Oklahoma (US) called Group 6 performance.  They

Try IPD in Portland Oregon. Great Volvo parts source, Richard Gordon has been
racing Volvos for a number of years. Turbos for 122's, sway bars, heavy-duty
clutches, radical cams, nitrous systems, etc.

IPD, Inc.
11744 NE Ainsworth Circle
PO Box 20339
Portland, Oregon 97220
1-800-444-6473 order
1-503-257-7598 support
1-503-257-7500 cust svc
1-503-257-7596 fax

Mark G. Forbes | forbesm@atlantis.cs.orst.edu
Corvallis, OR  | 503 757 8416 work phone    | Hardware R & D
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos,ba.transportation
From: cjackson@adobe.com (Curtis Jackson)
Subject: Need info on electric cars/conversions
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: usa
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1992 17:02:28 GMT

I am in the market for a small commuter car with the ability to travel
at reasonable freeway speeds (say, 60 mph) and a range of at least
60 miles. I am intrigued by electric cars for a number of reasons, but
don't know where in my area (or elsewhere) to begin looking.

I am especially wondering if I could take an old Triumph, MG, Graduate,
Spyder, etc. body and convert it to pure electric somehow. I have heard
of a company in Santa Rosa, CA, that does conversions but can't seem
to locate them.

Any pointers at all on electric car info would be greatly appreciated,
-- 
Curtis Jackson		cjackson@mv.us.adobe.com	(415) 962 4905
Adobe Systems, 1585 Charleston Rd., POB 7900, Mountain View, CA 94039-7900
  "They that can give up an essential liberty to obtain a little temporary
   safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." -- Benjamin Franklin (1759)
From: Steve.Kaess@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Steve Kaess)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Repair Job of an old Maxima at the Dealer
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 14:26:05 -0500

 > Reply-To: garyc@lenny.acns.nwu.edu
 >
 >
 > My girlfriend and I were driving her Maxima Yr. 84 on the
 > highway;
 > suddenly all the gauges on the dashboard dropped to the
 > bottom, the entire
 > electric system went off, and soon it became lifeless with
 > the hazard
 > barely flashing. We stucked on the road and were forced
 > to call AAA for a
 > towing because the battery never came back alive to restart
more tale of woe deleated**********************
 
gary it could be lotsa things, but check in this order
1)clean, tight connections by cables to battery
2)tight<but not too tight >alternator belt
3)alternator&regulator
these are simple basic checks and almost any place can do them...i 
recomend staying away from the dealer on this sorta repair.



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: wlsmith@valve.heart.rri.uwo.ca (Wayne Smith)
Subject: Recent emmisions recall on 86/87/88 Mercury Cougars
Organization: The John P. Robarts Research Institute, London, Ontario
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1992 04:24:01 GMT


My dad got a recall notice concerning his 87 Mercury Cougar (which he
got about a year ago.  My grandmother bought it new, and it has maybe 
30K miles on it at most right now).

This letter says that there might be a problem with the catalytic
converter which might cause the car to have higher polution emissions
than it was originally "allowed" to have when new.

The letter said that he could bring it into the dealer to get a free
inspection and fix if needed.  My advice was that they're just as likely to
screw something up (scratch a door, create an exhaust leak, etc) so
I think he should ignore it.  Especially since emissions tests aren't
required here (so like why the recall?).

Does anyone know the real scoop behind this catalytic converter recall
thing (letter dated Aug.5) ?

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: Smog laws in Wisconsin 
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 92 05:17:02 GMT

Daryl S Spano (dss@wdl1.wdl.loral.com) wrote:
: I am considering moving to Wisconsin (from CA) and would appreciate any info
: on smogging my car.  I realize that passing should not be a problem, but am
: just wondering if it even gets smogged.  Is smog required every two years -
: or just when the vehicle is sold.  Also do I need to smog it to get Wisconsin
: plates?  While I am just rambling here - how about, do I even need to get
: Wisconsin plates or register it in Wisconsin?
: 
: 
:                                   Daryl
:                                   dss@wdl1.wdl.loral.com
 
Daryl,

It depends on where in Wisconsin you're going to move to.  For the 5 county area
in and around Milwaukee, there is testing.  In Madison, I think they have testing.
As far as I know, everything else is unregulated (for now).

If your car passes in CA, you'll have NO problem with WI emissions.  Also, all  
cars older than '78? don't have to be tested.

You'll need to get plates within a month if you move here.  Testing is once a
year, no safety inspection though.

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
hinzd@picard.med.ge.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: Throw-out bearing replacement
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 13:42:39 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 Fiats have very light little trannies. They come off fairly easily. I
replaced the throwout bearing once. Don't remember if pulled the trans
or the combo. Either way it's a simple job. The clutch is cable actuated
and will need to be readjusted. You might want to replace the cable. 
They break occasionally; mine did once, and I have been advised that many
Fiat owners carry a spare.

 The Clymer manual was sufficient for me to rebuild the engine with. If
you have a problem with the FI, there were years with carbs and the 
intake swaps right on. Holley/Weber progressive 2BBL carbs fit the intake.
No MPG difference when I did the swap, some performance improvement. Also
Lancia points-type distributors are compatible if your EI goes, as are 
earlier Fiat distributors. 

 Don't bother with a header. The cast 4-2-1 manifold is good. I tried a
Monza header and it sapped the low end slightly with no high end gain -
maybe you need a bigger cam to see an improvement. 

 The oil pump/pickup is a single cast assembly and is fragile. My car went
over something, slight dent in the oil pan, just enough to crack off the
pickup tube. Led to oil starvation when cornering. Don't play parking lot
pogo.

 All in all a fairly reliable little car once I exorcised the demons of
Elektronick Engine MizManagement. 100MPH with the top down is a good time.

-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#