HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: adr5@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu (Alex D Rodriguez)
Subject: Re: Anti-Lock Brakes makes stopping SAFER?
Reply-To: adr5@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu (Alex D Rodriguez)
Organization: Columbia University
Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1993 00:22:16 GMT

In article <16218@auspex-gw.auspex.com> tpickett@auspex.com (Tom Pickett) writes:
>Anyone know how the handbrake is actuated on a four wheel disk brake 
>system?  Is it the same as with drum brakes?
>
>
>Tom Pickett 
>tpickett@auspex.com or 74616.2237@compuserve.com
>SHO  GOZE

There is basically no difference in the parking activation of a car with a
disk/drum setup and one with 4 disks.  There is a cable that runs from the
parking brake handle to the rear wheels, except for SAABs which use the 
front brakes as a parking brake, which pulls a lever on the caliper which 
sets the brakes.
------------------
Alex Rodriguez
Columbia University
New York City
Dodge Omni GLH Turbo & Fiat X 1/9

From: leonglaw@hpsgm2.sgp.hp.com (Lawrence LEONG)
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 08:06:02 GMT
Subject: Re: 300zx steering vibration
Organization: HP Singapore
Newsgroups: rec.autos

In rec.autos, tsmith@cerritos.edu writes:

| I have a question regarding a small problem with my steering wheel vibration.
| I own an 85 nissan 300zx, a great car, no problems what so ever and it has
| over 125,000 miles!!!  I guess i'm kind of lucky.  Anyways the only problem
| that I am encountering is that when ever I slowly brake to get off an off
					     ^^^^^^^^^^^^
| ramp or just come to a slow stop the steering wheel tends to vibrate.  I have
			 ^^^^^^^^^
| very low profile tires plus I have been told that I need new shocks and or
| struts.   The tires are in great condition and balanced and I'm not sure if the
| shocks are causing the vibration because the car sits a few inches shorter
| that if the shocks were new.  Or because the tires a low profile and the car
| was not designed for them?
|
| Note: I didn't have the springs cut or lowered.
| Would the vibration be caused by bad brakes or its calipars (sp?)?.  Or ???
| Thanks!
|
| Tom.
|

Warped brake disc?  Have you ever done any hard braking and then gotten your
brake disc wet (eg go thru a puddle)?

Lawrence
Newsgroups: rec.autos.antique
From: kish@grandam.watson.ibm.com (Bill Kish)
Subject: Re: Lead Bodywork
Date: Mon, 04 Jan 93 22:55:16 GMT
Distribution: na
Reply-To: kish@grandam.watson.ibm.com (Bill Kish)
Organization: IBM TJ Watson Research


>
> .....  (Very interesting lead article not repeated...)
>


Some comments on J.W. Swonger's article:

I have had some limited experience with body lead, there
are a few points that J.W.S. brings up that may cause 
confusion...

 1) It is very hard to properly tin a sandblasted steel
    surface! The steel seems to oxidize instantly when 
    the heat is applied. Even if there is flux on the metal,
    the sandblasting has increased the surface area of the
    steel to the point where any heat will produce a solder-
    repelling layer on the steel.

    Preparation of the metal for lead should leave the 
    substrate SHINY, with no rust pockets, etc. I have 
    used a combination of grinding and power wire brush
    with good success.

 2) Like bondo, lead is not supposed to be used to fill
    holes, join cracks or tears or make structural joints!
    Filler is used where the metal has been worked as 
    close as possible to the final shape and the filler 
    takes care of cosmetic waves or covers up the weld joint.

 3) Lead paddles are usually made of hard wood (Maple) 
    and can be coated with bees-wax to keep the hot lead
    from sticking. When tinning, it is helpful to keep the
    rag damp, it won't burn that way.


I hope that there will continue be more technical postings like this,
very informative stuff!


		-BK
From: dkboyd@convex1.tcs.tulane.edu (david boyd)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.antique
Subject: Re: stripes
Summary: Shift points
Keywords: speedometer stripes
Date: 11 Jan 93 17:41:41 GMT
Organization: Tulane University, New Orleans, LA
Nntp-Posting-Host-[nntpd-1998]: convex1.tcs.tulane.edu

The vertical marks on some speedometers (especially in German cars) at
various speeds are the maximum speed in the gears.  For example, the first
one should be a single mark, indicating the maximum recommended speed for
first gear.  The next should be two marks, for the top end in second gear,
etc.

David
Newsgroups: rec.autos.antique
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: Lead Bodywork
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 14:47:33 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 Heating the work area will melt off any lead except a surface film; a red
heat should vaporize it (deep breath, yeah) but excessive heat may also bake
off any galvanization on the backside. If all that's left is the seam, you
probably want to cut it away and rebuild the whole area. If you're just 
worried about lead surface contamination near the seam, you can melt the lead
and wipe the area with a cloth to get rid of everything but a tinned film, 
and sandblast the area; this should remove enough of it to be OK. For non-
stressed areas, a final option is to use solder to attach the patch panel.
This is certainly compatible with existing lead, although mechanical strength
is not high. It may suffice for cosmetic, small repairs though.
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
From: robie@umbc3.umbc.edu (Mr. William Robie)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.antique
Subject: Re: Is this a Model A?
Date: 7 Jan 1993 00:36:16 -0500
Organization: Univ. of MD, Baltimore County
Distribution: na
NNTP-Posting-Host: umbc4.umbc.edu

In article <1993Jan4.183524.5400@news.acns.nwu.edu> kkalan@casbah.acns.nwu.edu (Kenneth Kalan) writes:
>In article <1i3bk3INNoco@news.umbc.edu> robie@umbc4.umbc.edu (Mr. William Robie; POSI (GRAD)) writes:

>>Don't put too much emphasis on the fact that the car *appears* to be a 
>>right-hand drive model.  After all, all it takes to change a left-hand to
>>a right-hand model in an early photograph was for the person in the photo
>>lab to be a little careless and have the negative upside down.  I've run
>>across this problem fairly regularly.
>>
>
>
>This isn't directly relaited since the car in question in not an 'A',
>but my 28 A coupe has the frame set up from factory for right or left drive.
>The frame has a cut out on both sides for the steering box.  Henry
>wanted flexability, so there were right hand drive 'A's'.
>

Yep - since Ford exported (and made overseas) right and left-hand drive cars, 
they were designed so that they could be easily be made either way from the
same stamping dies, etc..

The fatal flaw with my original caution (as pointed out to me by the original
poster) is that this *is* a right-hand drive auto -- the negative wasn't 
reversed, because the tag reads normally.  Get out the idiot crayon and color
me in, ok?
From: dshelton@galaxy.gov.bc.ca
Newsgroups: rec.autos.antique
Subject: Austin Healy 3000
Date: 9 Jan 93 18:29:56 -0800
Organization: BC Systems Corporation

I've had an Austin Healy 3000 in pieces in my basement for too long - it's the
1960 two seater model BN7L, number 775 with factory hardtop, 
Michelins and triple laced wire wheels, trouble is, it was completely 
disassembled to have the frame dipped to remove all rust
and it's never been put back together. It was complete and running and 
there are many new bits such as trim,
brakes, and many spares - is there any interest out there in purchasing 
this classic car "kit"? 

I'm in Victoria B.C. Canada so shipping is the first problem...

Dave

Newsgroups: rec.autos.antique
From: brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks)
Subject: Re: Lead Bodywork
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 17:19:52 GMT

In article <1993Jan04.225516.30102@watson.ibm.com> kish@grandam.watson.ibm.com (Bill Kish) writes:
>
>>
>> .....  (Very interesting lead article not repeated...)
>>
>
>
>Some comments on J.W. Swonger's article:
>
>I have had some limited experience with body lead, there
>are a few points that J.W.S. brings up that may cause 
>confusion...
>
> 3) Lead paddles are usually made of hard wood (Maple) 
>    and can be coated with bees-wax to keep the hot lead
>    from sticking. When tinning, it is helpful to keep the
>    rag damp, it won't burn that way.
>
>
>I hope that there will continue be more technical postings like this,
>very informative stuff!
>
James' posting mentioned the difficulty in finding proper materials and 
tools to do leading. The only place I am aware of that carries a full line
of these supplies is the Eastwood Company, which advertises in Hemming's.
Unfortunately, they tend to be expensive. Unless your local body shop
jobber carries the stuff, or a customizing shop can give you a lead, I
think it'll be tough to find this stuff.

 
Ted Brooks
 ______________________________________________________________________
| Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are my own, and do not reflect    |
| those of my employer. Advice is free, but you get what you pay for.  |
|                               ________                               |
|                         _____|  1955  |_______                       |
|                        /      Chevrolet      /                       |
|                       /______  BelAir  _____/                        |
|                              |________|                              |
|______________________________________________________________________|
Newsgroups: rec.autos.antique,rec.autos,rec.autos.tech,hotrod@dixie.com
From: sharen@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com (Sharen A. Rund)
Subject: NO. CALIF Region Swap Meets & Shows
Organization: Lockheed Missiles and Space Co.
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 93 22:48:20 GMT

Jan 8-10   Santa Clara World of Wheels
 Santa Clara Convention Center

Jan 13-17 Oakland Roadster Show
  Oakland Coliseum

Jan 30-31  Model A Swap Meet - Turlock
  Turlock Fairgrounds (largest swap meet in the area....


-- 
________________       __        ________________   "They that can give up
\_________      \     /_ \      /      _________/  essential liberty to 
 \_________      \_____/  \____/      _________/  obtain temporary safety
  \___________________      __________________/  deserve neither liberty 
                     /______\                   nor safety."  
ALL disclaimers apply ....                           --Benjamin Franklin
Newsgroups: rec.autos.antique
Subject: SHOCKS FOR FORD '31 MODEL A
From: <SPW101@psuvm.psu.edu>
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 20:28:58 EST
Organization: Penn State University

HEY FOLKS, A BUDDY OF MINE IS BUILDING A MODEL A AND IS LOOKING FOR A PAIR
OF SHOCKS FOR THE FRONT END.  CAN ANYONE OUT THERE HELP ME?
From: eauu018@orion.oac.uci.edu (Glenn Kaino)
Subject: FORSALE: MOMO stars
Newsgroups: rec.autos.antique
Organization: University of California, Irvine
Date: 6 Jan 93 20:25:34 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.antique

I have the following for sale:
	    (4) Momo 5-spoke stars, 16x7", chromed, fits Nissan, recent (last 3  
         years) Hondas
	    (4) Pirelli P700ZR16 size 205/50 2 with minor wear and 2 BRAND NEW
	        (they are $200 each new)

Retail price is over $2600....

Im selling mine for a $1200 + delivery

call (714) 854-7392 for information
leave a message for Glenn
Newsgroups: rec.autos.antique
Subject: Re: Is this a Model A?
From: michael@sunbeam.ksc.nasa.gov (Michael D. Myjak x7-3286)
Date: 7 Jan 93 18:14:04
Distribution: na
Organization: NASA, Kennedy Space Center, FL.
In-reply-to: adh@cbnews.cb.att.com's message of Thu, 31 Dec 1992 12:23:19 GMTLines: 35


adh@cbnews.cb.att.com (andrew.d.hay) writes:
   In article <6218@naucse.cse.nau.edu> rrw@.cse.nau.edu (Bob Wier) writes:
   "Last summer while looking for antique photos in shops, I ran
   "across a very interesting "real photo" postcard, which I'd
   "estimate is pre - 1920.
   "
   "Can anyone tell me is this a Model "A" or some other similar
   "vintage auto.  Does the fellow look to you like he's handcuffed?
   "The clothes are somewhat reminiscient of World War 1 uniforms.

   you're right about the year -- approximately...  it could be early
   '20s, i think.  *definitely* not an A, as they appeared in '28; not a
   T either [too low-slung].  [right hand drive note deleted]

Not having the photo or a way to reproduce it... I can't say what it
is, but The first model A was produced in 1903. It was Henry's first
production car. The "B" never got off the drawing board, the "C" was
almost as short lived. The "k" was his first big car with 6-cylinder
engine. Rumor has it that it caused him so much grief that he vowed
never to build another one. I believe that held true until Edsel (or
was it Henry, III?) did it in the early 60's. The model "N" was
another popular model... lots of brass and stuff... very similar to
the first model "T" I understand. Later, of course, came the model "A"
we're all familiar with.  The early ones were called "AR", anybody
know why or what the "R" stood for?

--
- Michael D. Myjak			
  Senior Technical Specialist, Systems Analyst
  McDonnell Douglas Space Systems Company
  Kennedy Space Center, Fl., 32815
  MYJAK@TITAN.KSC.NASA.GOV

Gravity. It's not just a good idea. Its the LAW!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.antique
From: adh@cbnews.cb.att.com (andrew.d.hay)
Subject: Re: Ford Automatics
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 11:50:46 GMT

In article <jimd.725954526@sfu.ca> jimd@fraser.sfu.ca (Jim Davies) writes:
"adh@cbnews.cb.att.com (andrew.d.hay) writes:
"
">vancleef@netcom.com (Henry van Cleef) writes:
">"                                Ford's first automatics (not counting
">"the purchased GM hydramatics used in Lincoln 1949-54) were Borg-Warner
">"3-speeds on Ford and Mercury '51.  They started in 2nd in "Drive"
">"range, 1st in "Low".
"
">this sounds like the b-w 35, used on nash/rambler/amc 6s & small v8s
">through '71, and on foreign cars [cf. volvo, jag] well into the '70s.
"
"Wrong! Ford NEVER used the T35, although the other uses are accurate,
"plus a lot more. Some of these were made in UK. Look for clunky sand
"cast cases.

well, i did say 'sounds like'.  what were they, then?

">"                      1955-57 models would kick down to 1st on full
">"throttle standing start.  1958 and later had two "Drive " ranges with a
">"sprag clutch to allow a smooth shift to 2nd or start-i-2nd.  These were
">"built into the 70's with various valve body setups; all had a cast iron
">"case.  Same transmission was used on Rambler.
"This must be the clunkiest valve body around. IMHO

i think it would be hard to top the t35 -- it doesn't even have a
2nd-1st kickdown...

">                                          how do you account for the
">c5, derived from the c4?
"This is BS, unless you mean that they are the same in that they are
"both simpson power trains. 

just my observation that they share more than a few components.
btw, what is a 'simpson power train'?

">i've heard tell that the c4 was a hacked version of a 4-sp. studebaker
">design, and that the c5 basically restored the o/d that had been cut.
"
"All studebaker trans were courtesy of Borg-Warner, more or less, 
"according to my info. What stude trans might this be? 

never heard a model attached to the story.  guess it's just an Urban
Legend [tm]... it always sounded like one.

-- 
		+--------------------------------------------------------------+
Andrew Hay	|	one step beyond the outer limits of the twilight       |
a_d_hay@att.com	|	zone in the darkened room at the night gallery	       |
		+--------------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.autos.antique
From: bsloan@dale.ksc.nasa.gov (bill sloan)
Subject: Re: Manuals for old FORD Tractors
Followup-To: rec.autos.antique
Organization: nasa
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 18:12:08 GMT

In article <1iivl6INNbve@msuinfo.cl.msu.edu>, lorax@ap.cl.msu.edu (Dale
Gee) wrote:
> 
> In article <1993Jan6.193451.14708@spdc.ti.com> achenbac@epcot.spdc.ti.com (Jeff Achenbach) writes:
> >In article <1993Jan6.132750.17928@ccd.harris.com> cone@controls.ccd.harris.com (Tom Cone) writes:
> >>I know this is the auto group but maybe someone can help me. I am
> >>looking for a source for repair or original manuals for old FORD
> >>tractors I.E. 9N,8N,Jubilee. These were built in the fourties and
> >>fifties. I have checked with my local book store and they don't
> >>even show a listing for the Chiltons manual. I know Chilton made
> >>one. Does anyone have their phone # or maybe another source I could
> >>call.
> >>
> >>Thanks for you help.
> >>Tom
> >>cone@ccd.harris.com
> >>
> >
> >
> When I was in high school for my farm shop project I restored the Ford 9N    
> tractor my family used in our apple orchard.  We wrote Ford and they sent
> every thing you could ever want on the tractor.  This was over 15 years ago
> but I would check with them.
> 
> Dale

I heartily concur - I acquired a full set of manuals for my 40 yr old Case
- 
Parts, service, operators, etc. from the manufacturer - Some were
photocopies,
but the info is available.  Give Ford a call.

Bill Sloan
Newsgroups: rec.autos.antique
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: chrysler imperials
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 14:36:20 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 The only datapoint I have for you is an ad in Cars & Parts, a 1955 Hemi
needing body and interior work, for $1000. I estimate a decent-bodied one
to be in the $2K range and a show-able driver to be $5K max. However, there
is some "fandom" associated with Imperials and a unique, top quality one
could be higher. Having two of them is good if you're thinking of maybe
restoring one and cannibalizing the other. 
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
Newsgroups: rec.autos.antique
From: adh@cbnews.cb.att.com (andrew.d.hay)
Subject: Re: Is this a Model A?
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 11:34:14 GMT

In article <1993Jan2.192900.20283@bilver.uucp> bill@bilver.uucp (Bill Vermillion) writes:
"In article <1i3bk3INNoco@news.umbc.edu> robie@umbc4.umbc.edu (Mr. William Robie; POSI (GRAD)) writes:
">Don't put too much emphasis on the fact that the car *appears* to be a 
">right-hand drive model.  After all, all it takes to change a left-hand to
">a right-hand model in an early photograph was for the person in the photo
">lab to be a little careless and have the negative upside down.  I've run
">across this problem fairly regularly.
"
"And it even happens today.  Just recently scanning by some channels on
"the TV, I saw a person hop in the right side door of a pickup, and
"drive off, with the tailgate prominently showing the name ATOYOT !!

i used to see this regularly in british import shows during the '60s
-- guess they thought us poor americans just couldn't take the sight
of people driving on the wrong side of the road...

-- 
		+--------------------------------------------------------------+
Andrew Hay	|	one step beyond the outer limits of the twilight       |
a_d_hay@att.com	|	zone in the darkened room at the night gallery	       |
		+--------------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.autos.antique,alt.autos.antique
From: burden_d@oass.enet.dec.com ()
Subject: Info requested on 1938 Buick
Reply-To: burden_d@oass.enet.dec.com ()
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 14:18:22 GMT


A friend purchased a 1938 for his father for Christmas (it's running
but needs a new interior and some exterior restoration) and he was
just curious about some of the specs.

It's a straight 8, 4 door sedan.  Anyone know the engine size, hp
and torque figures for it?  How about wieght, length and wheelbase?

--
Dave Burden                                      ______--------___
Digital Equip Corp - Alpharetta, GA             /|             / |
                                     o___________|_\__________/__|
burden_d@oass.enet.dec.com          ]|___     |   |=  ||  =|___  |"
                                    //   \\   |   |___||_///   \\|"
                                    |  X  |\-------------/|  X  |\"
                                     \___/ 1924 Studebaker \___/
					Special 6 Touring Car
From: lagache@violet.berkeley.edu (Edouard Lagache)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.antique
Subject: Obtaining antique status in CA(?)
Date: 9 Jan 1993 23:14:05 GMT
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
Distribution: ca
NNTP-Posting-Host: violet.berkeley.edu
Originator: lagache@violet.berkeley.edu

Hello fellow car enthusiasts,

	Some time ago I heard that one could get a special designation for a
	car that is more than 25 years from the state of California.  It 
	included getting period licence plates for the car (ours was stolen,
	and while we got her back the plates weren't recovered).  However,
	I haven't been able to get any information on how to do this.  
	Can anyone on the net help me?

	THANKS IN ADVANCE!

	Edouard Lagache, lagache@violet.berkeley.edu

P.S.	Please reply to me directly, I'll post a summary if there is interest.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.antique
From: bault@sr.hp.com (Bob Ault)
Subject: Re: Woodies & Speedsters
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 18:26:56 GMT
Organization: HP Sonoma County (SRSD/MWTD/MID)
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8.1]

Dave Tartaglia (indy@immacc.prepnet.com) wrote:

: I am looking for a supplier of plans to build a woodie. Or a book on same.
: It would be on a commercial chassis, so I am not concerned with duplicating
: a particular model or design. 

If anyone has info on this subject please post it  or include me in
any email response as I am also interested in hearing about this.
 
 Bob Ault
Newsgroups: rec.autos.antique
From: sheffner@encore.com (Steve Heffner)
Subject: Re: Wanted: Jag XKE interior trim piece
Organization: Encore Computer Corporation
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 18:05:32 GMT

Try John's Cars, Dallas Texas,  800-866-JAGS
or
British Auto Salvage, Macedon, NY  (315) 986-3097

Steve Heffner
sheffner@encore.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.antique
From: RZAA80@email.sps.mot.com (Jim Chott)
Subject: Re: Lead Bodywork
Followup-To: rec.autos.antique
Organization: Motorola SPS
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 19:52:18 GMT

In article <1993Jan4.193020.25620@mlb.semi.harris.com>,
jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger) wrote:
> 
 One place you ought to try for lead supplies is Eastwood - 800-345-1178.
> They've got more body leading supplies than you could possibly use, including


Eastwood also carries the maple paddles used for moving the molten lead 
around.  Seems like I saw a whole set in their catalog.

Jim Chott                            85 Toyota 4WD pickup
rzaa80@email.sps.mot.com             72 LeMans Sport Convertible
Tempe, Arizona
From: weems@cs.umass.edu (CHIP WEEMS)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.antique
Subject: Alloy radiator rebuilders?
Date: 12 Jan 93 18:28:00 GMT
Organization: University of Massachusetts CS Department
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

Does anyone know of a place that can recore/rebuild alloy radiators
as used on some early 60's sports cars?

Thanks,

Chip