HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: orban@ciit85.ciit.nrc.ca
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Autobahn 200 radio
Date: 12 Aug 92 09:29:34 +0600
Organization: National Research Council

I have got the standard Aotobahn 200 radio in a '88 Jetta.
It has an annoying feature, as one is driving around, the
tone quality is continuously changing on FM, as if someone
was playing with the tone control buttons. I understand,
that the radio has a built in feature, that the audio
quality is controlled to compensate for the changing FM
reception. I believe, that this is the reason for the annoying
sound quality. No combination of the dynamic noise reduction
and loudness control seem to disable this feature.

BTW, this the fourth radio in my car. For the first one the dealer
lost the code before delivery, and by the time they found it, the 
radio went to the terminal shut dawn mode, the second one was 
replaced because of the above described feature, the third one
did not work properly in hot wether, and it also had that feature.

Are others having the same problem with their radio?

Thanks, Peter
--
Peter Orban                           | preferred: orban@ciit85.ciit.nrc.ca
National Research Council of Canada   | or: orban@nrcamt.ime.nrc.ca
From: ari@viipuri.nersc.gov (Ari Ollikainen)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Vanagon tire replacement
Date: 21 Aug 92 19:14:15 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: National Energy Research Supercomputer Center, Livermore CA

In article <1992Aug21.022412.17465@usho93.hou281.chevron.com> xepama@usmi02.midland.chevron.com (P.Mann) writes:
>A number of E-mail messages asked me to summarize the responses to 
>my request for tire information for a Westfalia van.  The short answer
>is that the conversion increases the weight of the vehicle to the
>point where normal passenger tire load ranges are exceeded, leading
>to poor handling, low durability, and dangerous driving.  The consensus
>was that light truck tires are the way to go.  They have reinforced
>sidewalls to handle the extra weight.  I purchased a set of Michelins
>@ $95 per mounted and balanced.
>
>BTW, the problem I ran into seems to be due to tire manufacturers not
>differentiating between normal vanagons and Westfalias.  The tires
>originally recommended to me would have been fine on the standard model,
>and the dealer didn't know the difference.
>-- 
>Parker Mann                    xepama@usmi02.midland.chevron.com
> 
>"Keep those cards and letters."

I just can't let this go as stated!! This is pure Bullshit! 
The Vanagon, whether in passenger form or in Westfalia form has 
*exactly* the same GrossVehicleWeightRating, GVWR. Therefore the tires 
originally supplied by VW (and the tire manufacturers from whom VW 
gets these tires) *MUST* conform to the load rating that matches or 
exceeds the GVWR. If a vehicle owner decides that he won't ever try to stuff
3/4 tons of load into a Vanagon/Westfalia then a lower rated tire might 
be usable. 

Michelin, Kleber, Vredestein, Continental, Gislaved, Goodyear, and Pirelli
make or have made tires for T-2 buses and Vanagons which have a load
range C designation *OR* a "reinforced" side-wall designation in 185SR14
size which is the VW OEM size. Some Japanese tire makers (Bridgstone
and TOYO, I believe, also make *equivalent* tires).

Both our current fleet 1985 Vanagons (GL and Westfalia) came with the 
identical Continental tires...( Our prior 1981 Westfalia was equipped 
with the Michelin xZx 185SR14rf version...)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: news@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Vanagon Troubles, odometer, fuel gauge, starter-alt-batt??
Summary: Just got this, need to fix !
Organization: The Ohio State University
         I just bought a '80 Vanagon L,
               -air cooled
               -2Liter, gas powered, fuel injected, ___
               -engine replaced at 80K, now reading about 93K
         I know I'l be happy with this thing, it's from CA (still has the 
     - Odometer and trip meter are broken:
          the guy said he took it apart and found a craaked gear common to the
          cummulitive and trip meters. I know this is a common problem on the 
          net, unfortunately Now that I have a VW I really have to read the 
          solution carefully. So please send me the prefab answer to this prob.
          ie. can I get this gear from somewhere before I leave next week !
     -leaky sunroof ! I'll be removing the silicon he used to seal it shut.
          I already took out the seats (damaged from water) and I don't want my
          camping trip ruined by having the thing closed all the time, 
          or leaking.  Any advice ?? He suggested there were some adjustment
          screws or something that will make the thing push up into postion.
          It must be held up in position by the silicon stuff not just fixing
          a leaky or damaged seal.
     -fuel gauge - it reads full when full, 3/4 when 3/4 full, but anything 
          less makes it go all the way to zero (off the scale zero).
     -starter/alternator/batterie:
          I havn't taken it to measure the alt output or the battery 
          performance. I have to push start the van, or jump it when the
          battery is too dead to push the fuel. The alt. definitely
          uotputs enough to run the van, because it fires right up and no
          warning light comes on in low or high idle.
          The guy was comparing the symptoms to a problem he had before with 
          starter (it stranded him at a monistary in the dessert), but the 
          starter works great when jumped.
          I think it's just a battery that refuses to charge (it's only two 
          years old though)...but he has me scared with his monistary story.
          (if it is just a the batt. then great because he came down in price
          and it's under warrantee (at least it will be when I scrape the date
          off the sticker) <--he gave me the reciept of 2 years, but I still
          have to perform the scraping before I take it in...
Distribution: usa
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1992 01:16:01 GMT

This article was probably generated by a buggy news reader.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: hd5r@fulton.seas.Virginia.EDU (Hasan  Dossal)
Subject: Carbareutor for Sale
Organization: University of Virginia
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 17:05:00 GMT

For sale:

Used VW carbareutor, SOLEX 30PICT-1.  Needs needle valve, some bolts and
screw which adjusts engine speed.  Make an offer

Hasan Dossal
hd5r@fulton.seas.Virginia.EDU
(804) 295-8552
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: tomh@wes.on.ca (Tom Haapanen)
Subject: Re: bug tire sizes
Organization: Waterloo Engineering Software
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 11:31:42 GMT

> "Douglas S. Brashear" <db6j+@andrew.cmu.edu> writes:
>> Is 165sr15 's the only tires that will fit on my standard VW rims?

Mark Sirota <msirota@socrates.ee.rochester.edu> writes:
> I am under the impression that the stock rims are 15x4.5".  If so, here are
> some other reasonable tire sizes.  You can, of course, go with smaller
> diameter tires, but that will cause speedometer error and will hurt your
> ride quality.

Stock rims on most Beetles are 15x4.5, although some older ones had 15x4, and
some optional wheels (such as some of the EMPI steel wheels) were 15x5.5.

> Specification Sidewall  Radius  Diameter Circumference  Revs/Mile  Difference
> 165/80-15        5.2in  12.7in    25.4in        79.8in        794        0.0%
> 175/75-15        5.2in  12.7in    25.3in        79.6in        796       -0.2%
> 185/75-15        5.5in  13.0in    25.9in        81.4in        778        2.1%
> 185/70-15        5.1in  12.6in    25.2in        79.2in        800       -0.8%
> 195/70-15        5.4in  12.9in    25.7in        80.9in        783        1.4%

Actually, the standard Beetle tires used to be 155R15, although most cars
now have 165R15s.  I don't know whether the speedo gears were changed to
accommodate the slightly larger tire (I doubt it), but if you take the
baseline to be 155R15, then you could also use 175/70R15.  That used to be
fairly easy to find, and was actually optional on the European 1303S model,
as I recall.

My '72 SB had 195/60R15 Pirelli P6, which were too low, but that didn't hurt

[ \tom haapanen  | "only bullfighting, mountain climbing and motor racing are ]
[ tomh@wes.on.ca |  sports -- all others are only games" -- ernest hemingway  ]
[ waterloo engineering software |     "to thine own self be true" -- polonius ]
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: roy@alanine.phri.nyu.edu (Roy Smith)
Subject: Re: reliable cars
Organization: Public Health Research Institute (New York)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 03:11:41 GMT

rll@frieda.mitre.org (Roberto L. Landrau) writes:
>Except for the engine components, the most parts are interchangeable
>with the gasoline models (of which there are plenty at the junkyards).

	And even some engine components.  The diesel uses exactly the same
block as the gasoline engine, so many of the "external" engine components
such as alternator, radiator, and water pump are the same as on the gas
models.
-- 
roy@wombat.phri.nyu.edu (Roy Smith)
Public Health Research Institute
455 First Avenue, New York, NY 10016, USA
"This never happened to Bart Simpson."
From: Ralph.C.Lindenfeld@dartmouth.edu (Ralph C. Lindenfeld)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: more ideas on needed engine
Date: 12 Aug 92 18:22:03 GMT
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH

In article <23496@oasys.dt.navy.mil>
probst@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Matthew Probst) writes:

> 
> 	Thanx to all those who gave their suggestions about the
> XOS light and engine.  I guess the general idea, then, is that maybe
> the whole engine is not shot, rather just the head gasket.
> 	There is one more thing I must say about the car though.  It eats
> up a quart of oil per week and smokes like crazy.  To me this sounds like
> ring leakage.  Could this also be caused by a bad head gasket?
> 
>                      Matt Probst
> mprobst@thor.tjhsst.edu
> '83 rabbit    2 '85 jettas    '81 diesel rabbit     '74 bug

yes

Ralph Lindenfeld
1960 VW Panelvan
From: colemant@yvax.byu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Help me use a dwell meter.
Date: 12 Aug 92 12:01:32 -0700
Organization: Brigham Young University

I just bought a guage that will measure the dwell, rpm's and some other stuff
that I don't understand.

It had three wires... Two larger ones that are black and red
			and then a smaller one.

The mechanism has settings for 4,6 and 8 cylindars.

Please help me use this thing... ie where do the cables connect for each thing. 
The idiot book says to connect one to the solenoid cable and the other to
ground but I get a dwell of 100 with that.  

Help.   --Tom Coleman
From: duane@alpha.aosg.gsf.dec.com (Andrew Duane AOSG)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Shocks and Exhaust on GTI
Date: 21 Aug 92 20:48:41 GMT
Organization: AOSG

In article <1992Aug20.142233.1354@searchtech.com>, belinda@searchtech.com (Belinda Hoshstrasser) writes:
|> Hi!  I have an 83 GTI, completely stock equipment.
|> The original equipment, blue seal shocks are completely
|> gone.  I want performance handling, but don't want
|> to rattle my fillings out!  I'm looking for comments or
|> recommendations for MacPherson struts and cartridges
|> (low pressure gas?).  In particular, I've been looking
|> at Koni, Tokico, Bilstein, and Sachs.  Will progressive
|> rate springs (like Neuspeed) help?  Or should I stick 
|> with original equipment?  I'm keeping the stock
|> Pirelli 185/60HR14 tires.

If you want to avoid stiff, avoid Bilsteins. I had them in Rabbit #1, and
they really did rattle the teeth out of your skull. The handling was superb,
though. I found a good compromise for Golf #2: the Boge Turbo gas shocks.
I understand they make a newer one called the Boge Pro, which are supposed
to be a little smoother still. I found the ride to be 100% improved, without
being too stiff to ride my mother around in the car ;-)

I can't speak about the Sachs, but I have been told by several shops
to avoid the Japanese brands: Koni and Tokico (and KYB). The reason is
the welded tube construction. Apparently, they aren't as strong as a
one-piece extruded tube, and can leak or burst under heavy use.

Springs are up to you. If you decide to change them, get ones that are
matched for the shocks/struts; buy them at one time. One thing to consider
is that every progressive spring I've heard of lowers you car ~1". I never
really found the need for new springs with my Boges.

--

Andrew L. Duane (JOT-7)  w:(603)-884-5873	duane@aosg.gsf.dec.com
Digital Equipment Corporation
ALPHA Open Systems Group
M/S GSF1-1/K13
5 Wentworth Drive
Hudson, NH   03051

Only my cat shares my opinions, and she's too heavy to care.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: jackr@thorodin.dazixco.ingr.com (Jack Reed)
Subject: Re: Help!
Reply-To: jackr@thorodin.dazixco.ingr.com
Organization: Dazix
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 18:56:33 GMT

In article <+$_1H_ka09@atlantis.psu.edu>, hvozda@wilbur.psu.edu (Eric Hvozda) writes:
> Dan & I have figured out what the problem is:
> 
> The cold start valve is getting NO current.  There appears to be a short
> in the cold start valve/thermo time switch circuit.  Has anyone had this
> happen to them before on a 79 or 83 Rabbit?  Just wondering if there is 
> something I should check right away before I start doing a grit the teeth
> continuity check...

When are you checking for current flow? You should only see it when the starter is
running...besides which, if there is a short you _should_ see current flow.

Try this. Short the two wires going to the time switch together, hook the meter
to the wires that go to the cold start injector. If you don't see current flow
then there's a break somewhere in those lines.

To test the thermo time switch, hook up the leads, set the DVM to ohms and drop
the switch in a glass filled with water and ice cubes. If it _doesn't_ short
you've got a bad switch. Replace it.

If the switch tests good but you get no current flow when the starter turns then
the switch is popping open when current is applied and it's bad. Replace it.

Jack
From: tomlee@yoko.rutgers.edu (Thomas J Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Audi 85-88 info request
Summary: What should/shouldn't I buy?
Date: 18 Aug 92 14:45:33 GMT
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

I'm currently shopping for a mid-to-late 80s Audi,
probably a 4000, definitely manual tran., and I
had a few questions:

1. How do the all-wheel drive models perform?
   Are they more expensive to operate and maintain?
2. What are people's opinions on the overall
   reliability of models in this era? Are there
   any particular models or features to avoid?
   Since the car I buy will have 40-70K miles, I'm
   concerned about the rep Audis have for being very
   expensive to maintain.
3. WIth the exception of the all-wheel drive models,
   are all Audis front-wheel drive after 1985?

Thanks for this and any other info that Audi owners
care to pass on.

Tom Lee
tomlee@paul.rutgers.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: paul@gergo.tamu.edu (From under the rock of Paul Stine)
Subject: Re: Brake Adjustments on Bug
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: Geochemical and Environmental Research Group - TAMU
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 19:04:00 GMT

In article <1992Aug17.135408.20324@cci632.cci.com>, lmm@cci632.cci.com (Lance Michel) writes...
> 
> 
>After adjusting, the pedal travels much too far before the brakes kick in.
>I have to really crush the pedal before any decent braking occures.
> 
> 
>Thats all I can think of that I checked.  Any other ideas would be appreciated.
> 
>Thanks.
> 

	   Something you might try is to adjust the brake master 
	cylinder pushrod. It is located in front (front is front)
	of the brake pedal. I can't remember if it is if you have to
	crawl under the car to adjust it or if you have to adjust it from
	inside the car (inside the car I think). One end of the pushrod 
	screws into the pedal mechanism and the other end actuates the 
	piston in the brake master cylinder. Sometimes this puppy 
	has screwed itself in, making the throw on the brake pedal
	longer than is comfortable. 

	  Remember, the front brakes do the majority of the work
	in stoping the car. 

	'67 Type I Convertible                            '69 Type II
	-------------------------------------------------------------
	Paul E. Stine '83		Geochemical and Environmental
	aka "barkeeper"			       Research Group
	PAUL@GERGO.TAMU.EDU	  College of Geosciences and Marine Studies
					    Texas A&M University
					
	  The opinions expressed here are not necessarily those of 
	 the Texas A&M University System. I'm not even sure they are 
	 mine, as I think I had my opinion removed as a small child.
	-------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: msirota@ee.rochester.edu (Mark Sirota)
Subject: Re: Rattle from front suspension
Reply-To: Mark Sirota <msirota@socrates.ee.rochester.edu>
Organization: University of Rochester Department of Electrical Engineering
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 16:44:29 GMT

In article <1992Aug19.104735.2306@lsl.co.uk> barron@lsl.co.uk writes:
>   I have a problem with the front near-side suspension on a 1983
> Volkswagen Jetta C (A Reg).
>
> At low speeds the suspension made a rattling noise. I decided
> that the bearing at the top of the suspension strut had gone and
> replaced it. With the strut off the car, the spring under compression
> and a new bearing fitted, I found that the bearing wobbled a bit against
> the spring seat.
>
> The suspension is rattling again, so it seems if fixed the wrong thing.
>
> It has made me think that maybe it's OK for the bearing to wobble ...

Yes, the bearing will wobble a little...  Not to worry about that.  My
roomate's '85 Jetta had an interesting front suspension rattle recently...
Turned out that the brake pads were rattling in their cages.  The pads and
rotors had gotten thin enough that there was room for them to move just a
little, and furthermore the anti-rattle springs had fallen out on both
sides.  The rattling was extremely loud, very hard to trace, and it's still
hard to believe that that was the problem, but we changed the rotors and
pads and it went away.  Moral -- check this possibility.

Another common one is the brake rotor shield loosening up -- tighten it back
down before it falls off.
-- 
Mark Sirota - Department of Electrical Engineering Systems Staff
University of Rochester, Rochester NY
 Internet: msirota@ee.rochester.edu
 UUCP:     rutgers!rochester!ur-valhalla!msirota
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: jackr@thorodin.dazixco.ingr.com (Jack Reed)
Subject: Re: Vanagon tire replacement
Reply-To: jackr@thorodin.dazixco.ingr.com
Organization: Dazix
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 22:44:51 GMT

In article <1992Aug18.191119.20271@infonode.ingr.com>, jackr@thorodin.dazixco.ingr.com (Jack Reed) writes:
> 
> I just put 195/14 _Reinforced_ Vredestein (sic) Sprints on the back of my Vanagon (81).
             ^^^

Sorry, that should have read 185/14.

> They were about $60 apiece, are rated at 50k and look to be more than able to
> handle a Colorado winter. YMMV.
> 
> I was told _not_ to go with standard passenger car tires or with oversized (195s)
> tires since the sidewall won't handle the loads.
> 
> Jack
From: tcheung@gandalf.rutgers.edu (Tak Cheung)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Audi odometer unstuck !!  Yeah !!!
Keywords: odometer, oxys counter, Audi 5000s
Date: 17 Aug 92 15:29:58 GMT
Distribution: rec.autos.vw
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

For all of you who sent me solution to removing the steering wheel of
a 85 Audi 5000s, this is the follow-up:

The steering wheel was removed thanks to all the suggestions.

The odometer was actually OK the problem was not broken odometer gear but
the little gear that drives the OXYS counter gets wound up as miles piles up
and start exerting a higher resistance to the odometer drive gear. 

I just released the catch to the OXYS counter and the odometer starts 
working again !! Yeah.  I wonder, if this is common to VW & Audis, it
seems to me if this is a common problem, the odometer would stop working
BEFORE the OXYS counter reaches the end of count to light the light on 
the dash !!

I had to take the odometer out twice, first time I thought it just got
stuck and I moved the gears a bit and found this thing for OXYS.  The
odometer remained stuck, so I turned the OXYS counter and felt the 
pressure on the drive gear is tight but a lot less if I released the
catch on the OXYS (spring loaded) "clock".   So I just reset the "clock"
and the odometer works fine (the wife is not impressed even tho' it's
her car :) :).

To all of you who sent in suggestions, thank you again, until the
next problem hits.  

There is this one more thing, is it save to use Preston coolant in my
Audi, will it damage the aluminium head ??

Tak Cheung.
From: Ralph.C.Lindenfeld@dartmouth.edu (Ralph C. Lindenfeld)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: color wiring diagram for '67 (was Re: Cookbooks for Sale)
Date: 12 Aug 92 18:20:08 GMT
 <1992Aug11.144724.670@HQ.Ileaf.COM>  
 <1992Aug11.165039.19027@news.columbia.edu>
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH

In article <1992Aug11.165039.19027@news.columbia.edu>
baw2@cunixb.cc.columbia.edu (Bruce A Weisberg) writes:

> >
> >To purchase one of these books you can send $7.95, which includes $4.25
> >worth of manufacturers coupons to: Nancy Butters
> >				   23 Spring Cove Road
> >				   Nashua NH 03062
> >What a great bargain!!
> >
> >
> 
> 
> 	I need a recipe for new rear wheel bearing seals for my '67 bus...
> also,if anybody can cook me up a color wiring diagram........
> 

Wolfsburg West (La Jolla, CA) makes *very tasty* wiring diagrams for
all years and models of the type II. I got one for my '60 with a
bernaise sauce.. I'm very pleased. 

Ralph Lindenfeld
1960 VW Panelvan
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: v041555@zeno.lsvl8.stortek.com
Subject: Re: Bug Tires
Organization: StorageTek
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 17:13:14 GMT

In article <1992Aug18.225742.29616@talon.ucs.orst.edu>, paasch@kepler.ME.ORST.EDU (Bob Paasch) writes:
> Has anyone out there in netland tried 205/60 - 15
> tires on the back of a bug? By my calculations these would
> be just a little larger in diameter than the 185/65 - 15's
> I have on the front.  I plan to mount them on 5 1/2 inch 
> rims.
> 
> I have 185/70's on there now, and there looks to be enough
> clearance to go two steps wider.
> 
> Bob
> 


I have a '69 bug with 15 x 5.5 empi rims running 145-15s front and 205/60-15's
rear.  Front is lowered 2.5 inches.  

The only problem I found with the 205's is a VERY small clearance problem with
the lip of the fender.(Mine might just be out of shape, too)  I solved the
problem by slightly squeezing the folded over lip of the fender so the very
corner of the tire didn't lose little bits of rubber on big bumps.  This mod is
very easy to do if you put MANY layers of masking tape on the outside of the
fender to protect your paint, then gently squeeze with vise grips every inch or
so all around the upper part of the lip.  No problems since.  Looks great, too. 
They really fill out the fenders.

If you have any probs., email me or post...
Good Luck!

Ken Franzel