HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: Michel_Denber.WBST147@xerox.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Citation trouble
Date: 17 Nov 1992 10:09:42 -0600
Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu

	"The code coming back from the ECM is 34, which according to the
Chilton's manual, means "MAP sensor output low."

any ideas?"

Well now this is just a wild guess, but it *might* mean there's something wrong
with your MAP sensor.  Fortunately, these buggers are real easy to reach and to
check.  It's probably either clipped to the air cleaner housing, or against the
firewall.  To test it, remove the connector, apply 5 v. across the power leads
(I *think* they're A and C, but my book is home - you should get the factory
book anyway).  Apply 8" or so of vacuum to the vacuum port with your
handy-dandy Mity-Vac vacuum pump (see? I *said* they came in handy) and measure
the voltage at the remaining pin.  The output should change with vacuum and the
sensor should hold vacuum.  There's a whole flowchart for this in the Helms
manual.

			- Michel

denber.wbst147@xerox.com
From: bakc@giraffe.ru.ac.za (MR KR COMAN)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Engine Question : MG
Summary: Need advice on treatment of MG
Keywords: engine MG british car
Date: 17 Nov 92 06:09:39 GMT
Article-I.D.: giraffe.bakc.206.721980579
Organization: Rhodes University, Grahamstown, South Africa

>
>Now my question:  Since I have had this car, I have driven about 3000 miles
>with no mechanical engine trouble.  Any car buffs or engine people out there
>who could suggest the highest speed I can drive it on the freeway?  I know it
>will run up to at least 75 MPH (4500 RPM) but is there a good guideline for
>the max. RPM on that type of engine for long-distance driving?
>

The A-Series engine is a damn good little powerplant.  I ran an Austin with 
this 1300cc unit for 8 years with no problems.  On the freeway it should 
cruise comfortably all day at between 60 and 70mph -- keep in mind that top-
end power is *not* of the blistering hot category unless the engine has been
extensively modified (racing camshaft, cylinder head porting, etc. etc. -- as
per the Mini-Cooper racing mods) in which case the car is no longer really
suitable for everyday road use.

Run at around average 65mph, change the oil regularly and ENJOY!!!!

Cheers,
Keith Coman

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"Condemning a research report on the basis of :  Dept of Management
 invalid and unreliable methodology is the    :  Rhodes University
 cheapest shot in the book."                  :  Grahamstown, 6140
                                              :  Rep of South Africa
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
From: hacker@cco.caltech.edu (Jonathan Bruce Hacker)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Opinions - lowering backpressure on fuel injected engine
Date: 21 Nov 1992 23:23:48 GMT
Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena
NNTP-Posting-Host: punisher.caltech.edu
Keywords: fi fuel injection backpressure exhaust

scotte@atlastele.com (Scott Elam) writes:


>I have heard conflicting opinions about lowering the backpressure
>on fuel injected engines.  One person told me that it would cause
>the FI to run really lean and eventually burn the valves.  Another
>person said that was an old wives tale.  He told me that if the
>engine was tuned-up after the system was installed everything would be
>fine (I tend to believe the second guy).

>I want to upgrade my exhaust system in stages on my '87 4cyl
>Toyota 4x4 PU, starting with the muffler and a larger diameter
>tailpipe.  Eventually I'll replace the header and cat-converter.

>Anybody have any thoughts on this?  I'd appreciate hearing them.

As long as you stay within the dynamic range of your air flow sensor
the FI computer will compensate. Mild exhaust system mods usually fall
in this category. 

If you exceed that range, you will need to look at major modifications
to your FI including higher flow injectors, larger throttle body, and
air flow sensor, and a new computer to run it all. 

-- 
Jon Hacker
Caltech, Pasadena CA
hacker@tumbler-ridge.caltech.edu
From: sankar@Xenon.Stanford.EDU (Sriram Sankar)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: More on anti-lock brakes
Date: 17 Nov 92 21:47:04 GMT
Organization: Computer Science Department, Stanford University.
Originator: sankar@Xenon.Stanford.EDU


Ok, here is one more posting from me on anti-lock braking.  I've included
some text from previous postings in response to my original posting for
context.  I learned a couple of new things yesterday to add to this
discussion.  The details follow the included portion.

> What you have described is called a three channel system. It treats
> the two back wheels as a single entity and cannot independently
> control the braking of the rear wheels. If one starts to slip, braking
> force is reduced at both wheels and you lose some braking ability.
> 
> Most passenger car systems are four channel - they have separate wheel
> speed sensors for each wheel and can modulate the hydraulic pressure
> at each wheel.  These systems are quite good at handle the split-mu
> (high traction on one side, low on the other) situation that you
> described.  A three channel system will allow you to maintain
> stability because the front (steering) wheels are not skidding. But
> you won't get quite as much braking.
> 
> |>2. Can the pumping be isolated to just one wheel and leave the
> |>   braking effect on other wheels as is even if they are on the
> |>   same hydraulic circuit?
> 
> Only in a fully independent four-channel system.
> 
> |>4. Do cars differ in the number of wheels on which anti-lock is
> |>   supported?
> 
> Yes. The system in your Saab is somewhat behind the times, but it is much
> better than no ABS at all.
> 
> The ABS system on most cars usually have 3 - 4 hydraulic circuits.
> Each front wheel gets one, and depending on the car, the rear wheel
> gets either one per wheel or one total.  Each circuit is equipped with
> a separate actuator which can release hydraulic pressure in just that
> circuit.

My car is a 1992 Saab 9000 with three hydraulic circuits for the brakes.
I learned yesterday that the 1993 Saab 9000's come in two forms - one
with three hydraulic circuits (just like the 1992), and the other with
just two hydraulic circuits (one for each front wheel and the diagonally
opposite rear wheel).  The three circuit version is used with models with
traction control.  Also, the 1992 Honda Accord user manual says that
it has two hydraulic circuits for the brakes.

So, if the responses above are true, then:

1. The Saab 9000 ABS which someone stated is behind the times is going
   further behind the times.  I can't believe that Saab would do this
   especially since they already have it and one of their main selling
   points is safety.

2. If the Honda info is correct (I'm positive about the Saab info, but
   I don't trust a user manual to give accurate technical facts - so I'm
   not sure about Honda), then the Honda ABS is very primitive.

Or maybe the above responses are not accurate.  Would someone in the
know care to respond?

Thanks,

Sriram.
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:15537 rec.autos.driving:6693 rec.autos:27032
Organization: University of Illinois at Chicago
Date: Tuesday, 17 Nov 1992 11:41:46 CST
From: <U59985@uicvm.uic.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.driving,rec.autos
Subject: Re: Merkur XR4Ti
 <1992Nov17.145518.28172@osf.org>

I have an '88 XR4Ti and it's in the service shop right now. I wish I had read t
his group earlier as it's having it's spark plug wire being replaced as I write
 this. I could have saved a bunch of money if I had read these articles sooner.

What I really want to write is this: I am really getting sick and tired of havi
ng to deal with Ford dealers. I think they are, as a whole, some of the worst s
ervice dealers in the world.

I bought their ESP Total Plan with Maintenance and Wear.     So I have a 6 year
 60,000 mile "bumper-to-bumper" warranty on my car. It turns out that the warra
nty isn't really "bumper-to-bumper". I discovered that spark plug wire aren't c
overed, light bulbs aren't covered, certain parts of the brakes aren't covered.
Now I took my car in because I was having loss of power when I accelerate. I ca
n see the tach revving and the turbo needle moving, but I'm not going anywhere
fast. I thought it was a transmission problem. It wasn't. I turned out that it
was a problem with the air flow meter. Great fine. Warranty covers that. It als
o just so happens (by coincidence?) that the dealership finds out that I need n
ew spark plug wires. Something I didn't tell them to check and I probably don't
want replaced, at least not by them. Total cost $225. This includes a $65 fee f
or running diagnostics on my car to find out what the real problem was. And I a
m supposed to have a ESP TOTAL warranty. What a joke!

This is not the first time a Ford dealership has tried to rip me off either. Or
 I should say, this is not the first time a Ford dealership HAS ripped me off.
As it is I don't care if Ford is coming out with the car for the next century,
I am not buying a Ford ever again. It's not that the cars are bad, it's that th
e service is bad. They all seem so reluctant to do warranty repairs. It's like
they are always trying to find some way to make you pay for something, anything
 as long as they can take some money from you.

Btw, does anyone out there know the address of Ford's Consumer Complaints depar
tment? I think I'll write them a letter or two as well as a letter or two to th
e Lincoln Mercury Division complaints department and the Better Business Bureau
 of the state of Illinois.

If anyone's curious, the dealer I went to is Perillo Lincoln Mercury on 2825 N.
 Halstead Ave. Chicago. It's the last time I go there.

Just wanted to get all this off my chest.

Thomas
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: eu507dac@pts.mot.com (DOUG CHRISTENSEN X3915 P6818)
Subject: Re: remove inside rear-view mirror - HOW?
Reply-To: eu507dac@pts.mot.com
Organization: Paging and Wireless Data Group
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 15:33:34 GMT

In article 17443@wvus.org, pete@wvus.org (Pete Gregory) writes:
>Hi - I just bought a factory replacement rear-view...
>How do I remove the old mirror without breaking the windshield?  Is
>there something that will dissolve the old epoxy but not the glass?
>>
>Pete Gregory       |  Internet: pete@wvus.org

I have found that a curios 3 year old left alone in the car for 30 
seconds to be very effective in removing inside mirrors, thank you
very much.

Doug Christensen    SCCA SSB Scirocco 16V 
doug_christensen@pts.mot.com 

     _____
   _/_|__|\__
  | _ |61| _ \
 <-(_)----(_)-^       "When I'm racing, I'm alive.  Everthing else
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^    is just waiting."  Steve McQueen, Le Mans.
From: Vision@cup.portal.com (Vision - Tester)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: caliper seizure
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 92 17:16:15 PST
Organization: The Portal System (TM)
  <1992Nov21.235408.23569@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>

I disagree.  If you are doing your own brake job, then you should be able
to do a caliper rebuild.  Rebuild kits cost less than $10 (usually run
for about $5-6) and that price is nothing compared to the $40-50 for a
rebuilt one.  If all you need is one, then it is easier to buy it rebuilt.
But when 2 go bad and you want to get them all replaced, $20 (and 2 hours of
your time) vs. $200??
Just put the car up on jacks and check to make sure the braking works.  If
after applying a lot of pressure you don't find any leaks (and the caliper
is not sticking and working properly) then you have saved yourself $180.
Just take your time when doing the rebuild.
The reason calipers cost $50 rebuilt is because people are not willing to
do the task themselves -- kind of like paying $30 for an oil change when
you can do it in 5 minutes for $8.  
Frankly, I trust my own work more than the job of some guy who does 30 or 40
of these things a day (and doesnt care about quality) -- don't you???
From: GC.SUL@forsythe.stanford.edu (Sullivan)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Omni running hotter problem solved - thanks
Date: 23 Nov 1992 14:47:00 -0800
Organization: Stanford University
NNTP-Posting-Host: morrow.stanford.edu

My '87 Omni had the following symptoms:

1. running hotter than normal
2. not overheating
3. apparent water flow in radiator (water gets hot enough)
4. turning on heater helped
5. I flushed out radiator with store-bought flushing agent to no
   effect

I assumed because of 2 and 3 that thermostat was ok.  It was
suggested here (and I concurred) that there was crud built up
either in the engine or radiator and to take it into a radiator
shop for cleaning/ replacement.

Though I didn't think it would help, out of desperation, I replaced
thermostat and problem went away.  I conclude the thermostat was
frozen in a partially open position or didn't open enough to really
cool the engine water adequately.

Thanks for the net help, as your suggestions helped me understand
better how the damned thing worked.

Mike
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: eliezer@leland.Stanford.EDU (David Eliezer)
Subject: Repost: Accord cranckshaft pulley
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 92 06:00:36 GMT

Please pardon the wasted bandwidth.  My system went down for 4 days
immediately after my first posting of this, and I missed all the
replies.  This is a call for help from anyone who might be knowledgeable
about 1980 honda accords with A/C and power steering.  Recently
my water pump died. I loosened all the bolts holding it on, only
to discover that the pump has a piece  which sticks under the timing
chain cover, and is held in place by a gasket.  I can't remove it
without taking the timing chain cover off.  To do this, I need to
remove the crankshaft pulley.  Since I have A/C and power steering,
the pulley is a triple pulley type, and there is *no* cutout in the
pulley, which means I can't hold it in place while cranking on the
bolt which holds it on .  Can anyone recommend a way to get
this thing off with the engine still in the car?  Is there any way
to keep the crankshaft from turning while I torque the bolt? using
the breaks or putting it in gear doesn't seem to do it, as there is
alot of give when I turn the bolt (anyone know why this is?).  Any
help would be greatly appreciated.  Oh, does anyone know if it is
possible that crankshaft bolt has a left-handed thread?  I have
heard suggestion that I could use a breaker bar to hold the bolt
and then crank the engine using the starter to remove the bolt,
but I believe this will only work if the bolt is a left handed thread?

Send replies to eliezer@bogart.stanford.edu
From: shadow@pro-haven.cts.com (Blaine Hufnagle)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Window tinting
Date: 20 Nov 1992 04:28:04 -0600
Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu


Date: Tue, 17 Nov 92 15:01:38 CST
From: shadow@pro-haven.cts.com (Blaine Hufnagle)
Subject: Re: Help... Tinted Windows
To: out!rec-autos-tech
Message-Id: <1992Nov17.150138.6682@pro-haven.cts.com>
Organization: ProLine [pro-haven] - Pariahs' Haven BBS, 409/693-8262, 9600-300

In <1992Nov17.011831.17719@sco.com> danielle@sco.COM (THE RED NINJA) writes: 
% I violated section 26708A of the Vehicle Code and that I 
% must remove the tint from both of my doors as I cannot have
% ANY kind of tint on the doors.

>From what I understand, it is against FEDERAL law (_not_ state) to have the
front-most driver side and passenger side windows tinted.  Something having
to do with visibility, if memory serves.  I've never heard of this being
actually enforced, except for the fact that if you've ever noticed, when you
order "tinted windows" on your new car, the drivers and front-seat
passenger's windows are never tinted.  I see lots and lots and lots of cars
and trucks around here with all the windows but the windshield tinted,
including my truck.  No problems with the cops.
 
For what its worth, I think the "reduction in visibility" arguement holds
water like a sieve, as I find I can actually see _better_ with the tint than
without.  However, I might add that I am about the world's most glare
sensitive person, and the tint helps by cutting out the glare.  YMMV.

-blaine


          a.k.a. The Midnight Shadow    |  1979 Chevy Urban Assault Vehicle
Texas Aggie Bus Driver and proud of it! |  1982 Thomas Transit Liner bus
Another Bodybuilder from HELL!!         |  1982 Yamaha Vision   DoD #7192
        "Mine is not to wonder why, Mine is but to look and cry....."
From: jimv@hienergy.Eng.Sun.COM (Jim Vienneau  - Sun Microsystems)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: recommendations on motor oil
Date: 19 Nov 1992 18:30:43 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Mt. View, Ca.
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: hienergy.east.sun.com

In article <27669@oasys.dt.navy.mil> odell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Bernard O'Dell) writes:
>I've used them all, but now I only use Castrol 10w 40, and my car
>has over 160K and still runs great--

Well just to add a counter-point, I use whatever I can get on sale (as long
as it's "SG" rated) and change it every 4K. I have a 186K on my Buick V6
wagon and it's still running like a champ. In my opinion, SG oil is SG
oil, buy for price. Pretty much the same for filters as long as they're
name brand (Fram, AC, Purolator, Motorcraft). I think you only see the (very)
slight differences in quality if your the type that goes 20K between changes.
Just another (of many!) opinions.


--
Jim Vienneau, Sun Microsystems Inc - Billerica, MA
Email: jvienneau@east.sun.com   Amateur Radio: WB1B
Good old Ma Bell (well old anyway): (508)671-0372
From: rnf@druwa.ATT.COM (FortuneBN)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: CHRYSLER Extended Warranty
Keywords: Extended Warranty
Date: 18 Nov 92 22:48:46 GMT
Distribution: rec


I own an '89 Dodge Caravan.  I bought the extended warranty from Chrysler.
At that time it cost $595.  Now they want around $795.  Would I buy it again?
Yes - and I did on my '92 Lebaron.  One of the neat things about the
Chrysler extended warranty is: it covers struts!  Now Chrysler struts may
not be the greatest but at a cost of $25 I'll just let Chrysler keep replacing
them.

Also, the Chrysler extended warranty covers rental car expenses (to a point)
AFTER (note the key word here) the problem has been diagnosed and the
vehicle needs to be in the shop. (What you want to do if you can is try
to get your car scheduled to be looked at early in the morning.  Beg, plead,
say it's your only car and you cannot be without it long, whatever you have
to get it diagnosed in the morning.  That way the warranty helps with a
rental car)

Here are my expenses with and without the warranty to date in 44k miles.

	Description			Normal 7/70	Extended Warranty

	(1) Fuel Pump			$100		$25
	(2) Radiator (can you believe!)	$100		$25
	(3) Struts (no 7/70 coverage)	$150 est	$25
	(4) Leaky valve guide		$100		$25
	(5) Rental car due to (4)	$150 est	$37 (extra insurance)
					----            ----
					$600		$137

And I'll be getting new struts next spring I'm sure.

Having owned 3 TOYOTAS, I would not consider an extended warranty on a 
TOYOTA product.  Chrysler has come a long way but has a bit further to go.

Just my experiences.      Bob Fortune
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: nau@ssesco.com (William Nau)
Subject: Re: How anti-lock brakes work (may start an interesting discussion)
Organization: SSESCO
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 19:26:21 GMT

3. Do drum brakes have the anti-lock feature?
4. Do cars differ in the number of wheels on which anti-lock is supported?

Yes and yes.  An example is Ford pickups.  They have anti-lock brakes on
the rear drums.  I don't know if you can get anti-lock on the front discs.
It's done on the pickup to keep the rear end from swinging around to the
front in a panic stop.  If any actual cars do this, I don't know.
-- 
William R. Nau
Supercomputer Systems Engineering and Services Company (SSESCO)
511 11th Avenue South, Suite 216
Minneapolis, Minnesota 55415-1536
(612) 342-0003

nau@SSESCO.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: steve@tr.UUCP (steve chandler)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Extended range O2 sensors.
Date: 16 Nov 92 21:05:06 GMT
Distribution: usa

Hi all, I have read somewhere that there are extended range 
O2 sensors available. (Of course I have lost the article :)

These are sensors that are more accurate at values that are not
close to Lambda=1. These are particularly suited for race engines
which need to run richer than normal. Does anyone know of a source 
for these sensors ???

Also I have the following curve for a standard O2 sensor at 800 deg C, can
somebody confirm this is correct, if anyone has any more points below
and above these I would be grateful if you could send them to me. 


A/F Ratio        Voltage Output
-------------------------------
13.5 		.81 
14.0 		.78 
14.5 	  	.74
14.64 		.68
14.65		 .45 
14.66 		 .23
15.0   		 .12 
15.5   		 .08 


Cheers


steve chandler

uunet!tr!steve
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: eu507dac@pts.mot.com (DOUG CHRISTENSEN X3915 P6818)
Subject: Re: splitfire revisited
Reply-To: eu507dac@pts.mot.com
Organization: Paging and Wireless Data Group
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 13:17:04 GMT

In article 4847@ultb.isc.rit.edu, ajb8886@ritvax.isc.rit.edu () writes:
>
>I walked into the local Pep Boys auto store today, and discovered they
>had the "amazing" new SplitFire plugs.  The brochures they had scattered 
>around show a whole series of photographs of a "regular" plug firing 
>versus a splitfire firing on the same ignition system.  Had to admit,
>the splitfire had this impressive blue ball of a spark on it. 
>
>Question is, does it really make a difference?  Anyone have experience
>with these?  They're not exactly cheap (going for $5.92 PER PLUG, vs.
>$1.99 for platinums, and $1 for regular plugs).  Is it worth it, or is it 
>a scam?  Are there better things to spend the $20 on, say on a high quality set
>of plug wires?
>
>Alex

In the racing circles, everyone loves them.  We used them in our Firehawk
Honda and noticed some improvement.  But the quality of the plugs are questionable.
We run our car with as much advance as possible and melted one (- electrode).
Scuttle butt sais they are worth 5 to 10HP.  In a V8, I agree.

Are they worth $6. a pop?  In racing yes.  "Speed costs, how fast do you want
go?"  On the street, you may see one ot two MPG.  We have found the newer
computer controlled cars are sensitive to plugs also.  We can't run platinums
in our Honda.  After 15 minutes of racing, the computer goes into "limp in mode".
??

I will not run Splitfires on my VW.  I'll put them in my truck though.

Plugs are easy to change, so I say try them.  I would like some input back.
Did you really feel performance improvements?  MPG better?  Let us know.
Inquiring minds want to know.

DC out...

Doug Christensen    SCCA SSB Scirocco 16V
doug_christensen@pts.mot.com
     _____
   _/_|__|\__
  | _ |61| _ \
 <-(_)----(_)-^       "When I'm racing, I'm alive.  Everthing else
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^    is just waiting."  Steve McQueen, Le Mans.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech