HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: chrisg@strobe.ATC.Olivetti.Com (Chris Granitz)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Jetta experiences (Was:Re: info on jetta)
Date: 19 Nov 92 20:21:22 GMT
Distribution: rec.autos.vw
Organization: Olivetti ATC; Cupertino CA, USA

In article <1992Nov19.182529.10403@hplabsz.hpl.hp.com> javad@hplabsz.hpl.hp.com (Agha Javad) writes:
>I would just like to point out here (as I have in the past) that I have
>a 90 1/2 GLI which I absolutley love, and at the time I bought it it was
>made in Germany.  I have maintained it regularly, have all the records,
>use only Chevron Supreme Unleaded with Autobahn gas treatment every 3rd
>or 4th fill up, castrol 20W-50 every 2.5-3k, etc.  Yet, I am on my 3rd
>distributor, 4th EGR valve, 2nd computer, 2nd set of knock sensors, 2nd
>water pump, 2nd oxygen sensor (all under warranty), and my turn signal relay
>died right at the end of my warranty, and I paid 70 bucks to fix it.  It
>So basically, I am COMPLETELY
>dissatisfied with this car's reliability, and I am always anticipating another

     Did YOU determine whether all of the above mentioned components were
actually in need of replacement, or did the dealer/shop simply tell you
that they needed to be replaced ? I find it hard to believe that all of those
components failed so soon considering the exceptional care you have given it.
I have a feeling that the dealer may be taking advantage of you, therby making
a good car seem bad. I have an 87 Golf GT and a 90 Jetta GL that I drive
VERY hard (regular shifts above 5000 rpm on Shell regular 87 octane gas - no
injector cleaner, regular Pennzoil 10W30/Fram filter) and I have never had
any unusual/unexpected problems. You might look into another shop when the
warranty runs out or learn to fix it yourself. You might save yourself a pile
of cash and enjoy the car even more.

>But you know what?  I still wouldn't drive anything else! (Maybe a GTI 16V,
>or a Corrado VR6).  Am I crazy, or what?

No, I don't think your crazy. It's just a simple testimonial to the lure that
these cars can have.

>I'm curious about other people's experiences.
>
>Javad

     --Chris Granitz  chrisg@verdi
From: pluth@austin.ibm.com (Pluth)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Problem: Idle blip in 1989 Golf
Keywords: Idle clutch stop
Date: 20 Nov 92 16:57:47 GMT
Reply-To: pluth@ausvmv.vnet.ibm.com
Organization: IBM Austin, TX
Originator: pluth@rjp.austin.ibm.com


In article <1992Nov15.210829.917@colorado.edu>, neves@anchor.cs.colorado.edu (NEVES RICHARD K) writes:
> In article <op_1H=?hxa@atlantis.psu.edu> hvozda@wilbur.psu.edu (Eric Hvozda) writes:
> >About half of the time when coming to a stop the tach undershoot 750 rmp idle
> >speed (observed on tach) to 350.  The it will over shoot to 1100 or 1200 rmp
> >before comign to rest at 750 again.  This only happens with the clutch fully
> >depressed.  On rare occasions, vehicle wilkl stall.   However, it restarts
> >immediately and idle as normal.
> >
> >Ideas, questions, comments, discussion?
> 
> Read my second to last post.  This is exactly what was happening to
> our Passat.  They replaced the throttle switch and that fixed it.
> Maybe someone who knows something about engines could explain this.  
> 
> I do know that the engine idle speed somehow determined by a computer.
> The decision is based on inputs from devices like the throttle switch.
> Our switch was broken.  They replaced it, now it works.

Reading from the shop manual, there are two switches - one to tell the computer
that the throttle is at full (or close to it) and one to tell the computer it's
at idle (no pressure on the pedal).  If what I'm hearing from you is correct,
the second switch (called the idle switch in the manual) was broken.  Is this
correct?

I'm having the same problem on my '89 Jetta, and plan to check it out this 
weekend.  Hopfully it's just the switch.  Do you remember how much it cost (the
part, not labor)?

Thanks,
Ron
From: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Keeping Your Watercooled VW cool.
Date: 19 Nov 1992 22:02:53 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, amiller@almaden.ibm.com (Alex Miller) says:

>Well, I'd still rather not have my fan running all the time,
>but perhaps my reasons are not all technically sound.  When my
>fan is on high, it's much louder than my engine at idle - I'd
>hate to have to listen to it all the time, especially if it
>wasn't necessary.
>
>Are thermostats really "digital" or do they leak somewhat?  If
>my car was cold, I guess I could take the cap off my radiator
>and see if coolant started to flow before the engine warmed up.
>Then again - maybe I'll let someone else do this.  8-)

is there ANYTHING besides the ECU's that are digital??..no..everything
is imperfect....and they operate somewhat in stages, or at least, this
is my theory....as they work on a bimetallic strip...one expands faster
than the other, and thus opens the thermostat...it does not have to be
full on, or full off all the time....someone else also stated this...

>
>I thought that cars with crank driven fans have
>thermostatically controlled clutches so those fans don't run
>all the time.
all of the ones i know of(i;m pretty sure) run on an RPM scale..
the harder the air is for the fan to pull(push..whatever..move),
the more dreag is induced, makeing the clutch slip, and thus not 
turn the fan when you are driving down the road with the motor
at operational speed..some others used to use a "flex" blade fan,
which flatten out, effective creating little drag, and moving no
air as the rpm goes up..these had no clutch on them..however, i 
think you may be partially right, in that SOME do use a thermo-
mechanical "switch" to do much the same thing....
>
>I think it's true, the fan doesn't just cool the radiator, it
>forces air through the entire engine compartment.  So it
>shouldn't be necessary if the car is moving fast enough for
>this to happen normally.
minimal cooling...cars with aircooled motors have fins on them
for a reason(like M/C cyl. fins)namely, that the aircooling 
needs that much surface area to be an effective measure on 
th IC motor...i do not think that what little air actually
moves under the hood(let alone actually ACROSS any part of the 
engine) will make an effective difference in warm up time...


>(hey.. maybe we'll be talking about electrically pre-heated
> catalytic converters next year?)
EEEYYUUUUUUUKKK!!!/...oh well..progress...

>cheers,
>
>Alex
>amiller@almaden.ibm.com
>
(BTW..despite what i may seem to say...i do not like the idea of
having the fan on at all times either...but have not any real
reaons...other than increased fan wear, increased alternator load,
etc..nothing real substantial..)
DREW
-- 
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
?????????????????????????????????-----whatever!
From: msirota@ee.rochester.edu (Mark Sirota)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: alignment question
Date: 17 Nov 92 16:13:18 GMT
Article-I.D.: ee.1992Nov17.161318.19274
Reply-To: Mark Sirota <msirota@socrates.ee.rochester.edu>
Distribution: na
Organization: University of Rochester Department of Electrical Engineering

In article <27590@oasys.dt.navy.mil> lito@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Angelito Lucena) writes:
> i brought the car in for a four wheel alignment yesterday
> and was told that 'cam bolts' needed to be added to the
> front end.  how far out of alignment can the front suspension
> be before 'cam bolts' are required??

The proper term is "camber bolts."  The bottom of the strut mounts to the
wheel bearing housing with two bolts.  The A1 cars (Rabbit, Jetta, Scirocco)
used a real cam bolt for the upper bolt, with a conventional bolt for the
lower.  The A2 cars (Golf, Jetta II, Corrado) use conventional bolts in both
holes, but VW sells a bolt with a 1mm thinner shaft in order to get more
camber adjustment.  The part number is in the Bentley manual; see the
section on alignment.

Generally, you can get about two degrees of negative camber with the stock
bolts.  With the thin bolts in the upper holes, you can get about three
degrees, and with thin bolts in both holes, you can get about four degrees.

The factory-recommended alignment is something like a half or three quarters
of a degree of negative camber, so if you really need these bolts, then
either you're racing your car, or you've bent something (probably the strut,
strut housing, frame, A-arm, or maybe your A-arm bushings are just shot.
Or, maybe your alignment technician is full of it.

> i thought that the rear suspension was nonadjustable,  how is a four wheel
> alignment performed on the back end??  is it normal to add rear shims
> to adjust the rear end??

You can add shims to adjust the rear end, but VW doesn't approve of this
technique.  The purpose of putting sensors on the rear wheels is really to
make sure that the fronts are pointing the same direction -- a front-end
alignment will only align the front wheels to each other, but it's also
nice if they're pointing the same direction as the rears, so that your car
won't crabwalk down the street.
-- 
Mark Sirota - Systems Staff, College of Engineering and Applied Science
University of Rochester, Rochester NY
 Internet: msirota@ee.rochester.edu
 UUCP:     rutgers!ur-valhalla!msirota
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: bjgaed@bb1t.monsanto.com
Subject: Re: 68 VW Bus Clutch noise?
Organization: Monsanto Company, St. Louis, MO
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 12:53:12 GMT

In article <141925@lll-winken.LLNL.GOV>, papp@morbid.llnl.gov (Albert L. Papp III) writes:
> Recently, my Bus has started making a new noise.  When the engine is cold and just
> started, there is an annoying rumbling sound (sounds like a bearing type noise
> to me) as the car idles in neutral with the clutch pedal up.  If I push the 
> clutch all the way in (car still in neutral) the noise goes completely away.  
> Also, I noticed that pushing the clutch in allows the car to idle slightly faster.
> Is this normal, or is there some clutch resistance that shouldn't be there?  
> When the engine is all warmed up, the noise is not present regardless of clutch 
> position.  Apart from the noise, the clutch (and car) operates just fine.
> 
> Any ideas on the source of the noise?  Also, might this be a problem I should
> remedy quickly or can I leave it go for awhile assuming things don't get much
> worse?
> 
> Thanks,
> -Al
> 
> papp@morbid.llnl.gov

If the noise occurs with the clutch *engaged* but not with the clutch 
*disengaged* you can rule out the release bearing (usual, and cheapest 
to fix, problem).  This leaves the clutch/flywheel/needle bearing 
assembly as one possibility.  The other is the transmission. 8{(

I would suspect the latter as the noise seems to be related to whether 
or not the trans shaft is turning (clutch out) or not (clutch in).  
The needle bearings in the flywheel are only turning when the clutch 
is disengaged (pedal in) so that is out.  The rest of the clutch is 
held together pretty tightly by all those springs.  So it may well be 
the trans.  As the engine warms up in neutral the trans oil gets 
spashed around and may finally lubricate whatever is rumbling, so the 
noise goes away.  Have you checked the trans oil level?


--Electric Monk            (Bruce Gaede); 
                            e-mail: bjgaed@ccmail.monsanto.com

"...and then time started seriously to pass."
--Douglas Adams, _Dirk Gently's Holistic Detective Agency_
From: rck@fangio.asd.sgi.com (Robert Keller)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: 46mm nut---How to remove?
Date: 17 Nov 92 18:56:14 GMT
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc., Mountain View, CA
NNTP-Posting-Host: fangio.asd.sgi.com

colemant@yvax.byu.edu writes:
>Please help me find the tool/ wrench to remove the rear axle nut from
>my 71 bus.  The size is 46mm and the only offers I have are for:
>
>$107 crescent wrence with 2.5" max
>$30  socket and adaptor from sears
:
>How do you get to those rear breaks on your bus?  where did you get
>the tool to remove the nut?

When I replaced the rear brake shoes on my 69 bus (same 46mm size) I 
bought a crescent wrench from Orchard Supply Hardware for ~$60 and a 
four foot length of galvanize steel pipe.  Using the pipe as a cheater
off the end of the wrench the nut came off and went back on easily.

There is an adaptor that many VW shops carry.  It is a thick piece of
cast alloy with a 46mm socket hole on one side and a 1/2 socket hole
on the other:

			+------------------+
			|            ___   |
			|           /   \  |
			|  []      |     | |
			|           \___/  |
			|                  |
			+------------------+

None of the shops I visited had them in stock when I needed one so I
sprung for the cresent wrench.

....robert
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: davie@netcom.com (David M. Ungaro)
Subject: Questions on Bug!
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)
Distribution: rec.autos.vw
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 22:07:18 GMT

My Question is this:

     I've got a '75 VW Super Beetle Convertible.  I want to put front fog
lights on it.  I was thinking of putting them on top of the bumper as 
opposed to on the bottom, one questiopn is has anyone seen both, and which
looks better.  Also, where should I hook it up to.  There are a couple 
of terminals left in my fuse box, should I use one of them, or just run a
wire all the way to the battery terminals and hook it up straight to the
battery.

     Another question is what kind of car cover should I buy?? I am bringing
my Bug back to New York State, and want to put it under a cover as much as
possible... What should I buy??

     And What about Block Heaters?? Do they exist for the Bug's?? and if so, 
where can I get them, and what kind should I buy?

     I am also looking for Scale Models of the Bug Convertible but haven't
been able to find any... Anyone out there have any luck???

I think that's all my questions... Thanks for all the answers in advance...

David M. Ungaro

email at:
davie@netcom.com
     or
ungard@rpi.edu

-----
VW - It's not just a car...
-- 
----------
David M. Ungaro

1. Bones Heal
2. Chicks Dig Scars
3. Pain is Temporary
4. Glory is Forever
From: kiviat@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Brian Kiviat)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Timing belts and 16v engines
Date: 23 Nov 92 14:03:03 GMT
Reply-To: kiviat@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Brian Kiviat)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.autos.vw, taylorb@ncifcrf.gov (Brent Taylor) writes:
>On the subject of timing belts...... I tightened mine the other day to the
>Bently spec of being able to turn it only 45 degrees by hand.  The engine
>(16V 2.0L) runs much better, but the tensionor bearing was screaming.  Kind
>of a whining noise that changed frequency with RPM's.  So I ripped it all

I had the same tensioner whine on my '86 GTI (8V). I replaced it and
the whine is gone.  When I removed the old one and spun it, it reminded
me of my old open bearing skateboard wheels.....grindage.
   O                                        You don't stop surfing
   I\   Brian Kiviat (301)227-1833          when you grow old,
   I \  kiviat@oasys.dt.navy.mil            you grow old
  /     David Taylor Model Basin            when you stop surfing.
   \___________________________
			     \\
From: msirota@ee.rochester.edu (Mark Sirota)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: GTI vs. GTi
Date: 20 Nov 92 20:44:26 GMT
Reply-To: Mark Sirota <msirota@socrates.ee.rochester.edu>
Organization: University of Rochester Department of Electrical Engineering

I have a simple, innocent question.  Why do so many Americans insist on
calling it a GTi rather than a GTI?  I know that in Great Britain, it's a
GTi.  As far as I know, that's true *only* in Great Britain -- or is it also
true in the rest of Europe?

I've never seen anyone in the US calling the Rabbit a "Golf", or referring to
the Jetta as a "Vento", nobody used "Passat" when talking about the Quantum.
Why is there this odd loyalty to the British name of the GTI?
-- 
Mark Sirota - Systems Staff, College of Engineering and Applied Science
University of Rochester, Rochester NY
 Internet: msirota@ee.rochester.edu
 UUCP:     rutgers!ur-valhalla!msirota
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: Re: Shoulder belts for rear seats in Golf,GTI?
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 13:51:51 GMT

In article <1992Nov19.221515.24569@ee.rochester.edu>, msirota@ee.rochester.edu (Mark Sirota) writes:
>In article <BxzCJH.wL@umassd.edu> rgolen@UMASSD.EDU writes:
>> You can put shoulder belts on the rear in an early A2 without all that
>> much trouble.  ...  Mount the reel for the shoulder belt set where the reel
>> for the rear seats are.
>
>Ah, good thought, Ric.  It hadn't occurred to me that you don't need to put
>the retractor (reel) in the factory location, which is on a piece welded to
>the wheelwell behind the seat.  The only problem with your solution is that
>when you lean forward, the belt has to slide along your torso and lap, since
>the retractor is at the "wrong" end.  Or am I misunderstanding?
>
>Mark
>-- 
What you do is you point the top of the belt spool towards the rear of the
car just a bit off of the vertical position. When the belt spool is in
its original position for the front seat, it is pointed vertically.

You then put the "hinge" portion on the "C-Pillar" and then the end of
the seat belt bolts up on the same bolt that holds the belt spool
at the bottom of the rear quarter. It works, didn't get any binding
when I used it in my 86, unfortunately I had to remove the whole
thing when I installed my SCHROTH electrically controlled harnesses
in the GTI. The spool for those had to go in the "C-Pillar"

Ric Golen
From: bikdoc@bu.edu (Sanford Whitehouse)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: I now own a VW. How do I drive it?????
Date: 17 Nov 92 04:42:13 GMT
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5


	I am now the proud owner of a three week old Jetta GL
I am the happiest guy on earth.  (only had one problem my gas
gage always read 1/4 more than it had but they fixed it.)

	My question arises because I have been driving a big ol'
station wagon for the last 5 years.  I can do anything in a
rear wheel drive automatic station wagon,   BUT    I'm not so
good at the Jetta yet.

	Question 1:
           How high do I go on the RPM's.  For the most part
I'm an aggressive responsible driver.  Do high RPM's wear VW's
out?  What will make Campy (named after campignolo bike parts)
happy?

        Question 2:
	   How do I drive the corners.  Now that the back end
always stays put.  It seems like the front end will slide 
instead.  How am I doing.  What about gas through the corner?
And if the car can not spin out rear first what does it do 
and how do I avoid it.  If you know of a good driving school
somewhere around Boston or New England I would love to hear 
it.

        Question 3:
	   What about car clubs are they any good and what do
the VW ones do?

I'd love any help you can offer.

Another happy Fahrvergnugener
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mcr@cactus.org (Mike)
Subject: Re: HELP: BAD GAS!
Organization: Capital Area Central Texas UNIX Society, Austin, Tx
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 03:20:50 GMT

My friend's experience with bad gas also occured with the car nearly
out of gas.  On hwy driving, it lost power and finally wouldn't even 
start.  The fuel distributor had been mortally wounded and the dealer
replaced it at a cost of over 100 bucks.  End of story.  good luck!



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mike R.					| Old Bugs never die!
mcr@cactus.org				| (they just go to old Volks homes)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: garrett@Ingres.COM (WE'RE ONLY HERE BECAUSE WE'RE NOT ALL HERE)
Subject: Re: Help! Put oil in a Bug, and it disappears!
Summary: Trick Question  
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.4-b1  
Keywords: 
Organization: ASK Computer Systems, Ingres Product Division
Date: 20 Nov 92 21:44:40 GMT

In article <20NOV199213163645@cc.utah.edu>, mgb5528@cc.utah.edu (MICHAEL G. BECK)                       writes...
>In article <1992Nov20.170103.11314@nntp.nta.no>, BARANSKI@veamf1.nusc.navy.mil (Jim Baranski) writes...
>{I have a 71' bug, which has recently developed a problem.
>{ 
>{I've been putting a *lot* of oil into it recently, like a quart every fill up!
>{Yet it only smokes a little only when it starts up, and it isn't leaking.
>{ 
>{Where could the oil be going?  The front seal was just replaced, and I've heard
>{that oil can leak into the clutch housing...
> 
>I had that happen to me a couple of years ago in '71 Super Beetle.  One sure 
>way to tell if the oil is going into the clutch housing is if the clutch is 
>slipping at high rpm's going up a hill.
> 
DON'T ANSWER HIM! It's a trick answer. Everyone who has owned a beetle knows
that YOU CAN'T GO UP A HILL AT A HIGH RPM IN A BEETLE! Thought you could 
fool us, eh Michael? What is your REAL agenda?

> Michael Beck                   
> Michael.Beck@M.CC.UTAH.EDU       
> MGB5528@CC.UTAH.EDU                 

-garrett
From: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Predictable Intermittancy
Date: 16 Nov 1992 21:35:55 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, mgm@royko.Chicago.COM (Marty Masters) says:

>A friend has an 82 Rabbit with CIS fuel injection, and a points
>type distributor.  The engine runs fine for 15-20 seconds, and loses
>power, but still idles.  "Re-setting the system" by turning the 
>ignition key off and on enables the car to run well for another
>15-20 seconds.  He's replaced the cap, rotor, condenser & points 
>so far without curing the ailment.  Any suggestions as to what he
>should check out and in what order?  (he's already tested the 
>fuel pump relay, and it is fine)
>
>...Marty					mgm@royko.chicago.com
>
coil?
though i think they generaly fail catastrophically(ie die), that is something
that you did not say he replaced...i d unno..just a suggestion.
DREW
-- 
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
?????????????????????????????????-----whatever!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: garrett@Ingres.COM (WE'RE ONLY HERE BECAUSE WE'RE NOT ALL HERE)
Subject: Rear window defogger
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.4-b1  
Keywords: Vdub 71' bug
Organization: ASK Computer Systems, Ingres Product Division
Date: 18 Nov 92 04:11:16 GMT

	I own a 71' superbug. There are elements (word?) going the length of
the back window. There is also wires hooking to these elements. But I am 
absolutely clueless as to were those wires go and how to control them. 
	The wires dissapear in body so I can't follow them. But even if
I could, where is the switch (or whatever) to control it? I finally
figured out what the two levers on either side of the emergency brake 
are for, so can someone help me with last (I wish) mystery of my car?
Thanks in advance.

Garrett@Ingres.com