HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: dhepner@cup.hp.com (Dan Hepner)
Subject: Re: Tires, Snow, PSI, and Questions
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 01:39:44 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1scd1 PL4

From: shaig@Think.COM (Shai Guday)

>I have a Escort GT with a set of Michelin HGT 195/60 in the front
>and Cooper 1000 195/60 in the back.  Although both sets have a relatively
>heavy tread pattern and are rated all season, I was thinking of getting
>a tire chains, until I read the owners manual that said that chains
>should not be used on 195/60.
>
>1. No reason was given, does anyone know why?

Probably because they would scrape on other parts of the car, e.g.
steering parts.  You may have to user narrower tires if you 
need chains.  The use of thin cable-style "chains" will mitigate
this effect.  In general, chains serve two purposes: getting
you over mountain passes, and getting you unstuck when you end
up in deep snow.  Plowed mountain passes aren't usually much
of a challenge if you have the road to yourself, but in stop-and-go
driving, without chains the situation quickly turns into a mess,
and thus they are commonly required by law.  Cable chains don't
last very long, but make a good choice for mountain passes when the 
odds are in your favor (probably no snow).  Real chains make a 
much better choice for extended usage, and offer superior effect 
when getting unstuck.  Further, real chains are easily repairable.
Use a special "chain tool", a weird pliers affair with clips
to open and close the cross link connections so that they
can be replaced.  These tools are also handy if a crosslink
breaks.  Loss of a single crosslink is a minor problem, but
having two ends of a broken crosslink batting against parts
of your car is a major problem!

At the very least, carry some mild steel wire and a pair of
pliers when using chains.  I've survived not only broken crosslinks, 
but successfully used chains which were grossly too large and too 
small, by wiring them the way which was needed and going slow. 
Going lower down the "find some way" scale, duct tape can also be 
used for some problems, and one can hook the rubber tightener
into loose ends. 

Bizarre thing seen more commonly than you might guess: people
putting chains on the rear wheels of a front drive car.  Put
'em where the power goes!

>2. What tire pressure is best for driving in snow?
>   When driving on sand I usually bleed tire pressure so as to increase
>   the surface area, does the opposite hold true for snow?

You want to maintain sideways stability.  The worst thing for
low traction driving is a car which sways back and forth. Each
sway attempts to put you into a skid. Do not reduce the pressure 
below normal, or even to the low side of normal.

>3. What is the correct tire pressure for this car? Both tires
>   recommend a max of 35 psi and the manual refers me to the door
>   post sticker (non-existent when I bought the car).

The tires themselves carry the definitive range. 

Dan Hepner, living but not from where it never snows.
From: george@mech.seas.upenn.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Help with slipping transmission
Date: 23 Nov 92 20:44:08 GMT
Organization: University of Pennsylvania, Mechanical Engineering

:
:Classical slipping clutch problems.  However, in 2years I'm surprised
:it's worn.  Check clutch adjustment if any - this could be as easy as
:loosening a cable adjuster, 5 mins.

or if it is a hydraulic clutch there may be no adjustment at all.

:
:As for safety, it's not an issue.  It will not explode or cause you to
:go off the road.  You should assume you have less accelleration.

my experience with self adjuusting hydraulics is that they behave
exactly this way for a _very_ short period of time, before leaving
you stuck.  I would not make a long trip in such a car. ( unless it
was in kansas )

:Damage to the car will be minimal even if the clutch is badly worn.
:Extreme wear results in a scored flywheel and pressure plate.

i suspect it is a design decision.  Some clutches will operate
to the point of trashing the flywheel, while others will spare the
flywheel, and leave you calling for a tow truck.


--
  /   george jefferson
\/ *  george@mech.seas.upenn.edu
From: gt0765b@prism.gatech.EDU (Kevin M. Bonham)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: tips on performance
Date: 20 Nov 92 17:00:27 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology

there could give me some tips on how to significantly increase the performance
and handling of my car. I was thinking about maybe adding a turbo to this
car, specifically an AiResearch TO3 from an '80 Mustang. They both have
around the same displacement, so I don't think installing it would be a problem.Any suggestions on turbos? I also want to upgrade the tires with a whole
new tire/wheel package? I've heard a lot on this group about dunlops. What
about rims? Thanks to anyone who can give me some advice.

Kevin Bonham
Georgia Tech


-- 
Kevin M. Bonham
Georgia Institute of Technology, Atlanta Georgia, 30332
uucp:	  ...!{decvax,hplabs,ncar,purdue,rutgers}!gatech!prism!gt0765b
Internet: gt0765b@prism.gatech.edu
From: lxrosser@cco.caltech.edu (Alex Rosser)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 1985 VOLVO HEATER FAN REPLACEMENT
Date: 21 Nov 1992 13:31:55 GMT
Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena
NNTP-Posting-Host: punisher.caltech.edu

J019800@LMSC5.IS.LMSC.LOCKHEED.COM writes:

>I RECENTLY REPLACED THE HEATER FAN IN MY 1985 VOLVO. MOST MECHANICS WANT
>5 TO 6 HUNDRED DOLLARS IF THEY DO IT. MY ADVICE "PAY THE MAN!!!!". I DID
>THE JOB MYSELF, HOWEVER IT TOOK ME A LEAST 20 HOURS OF HARD LABOR. THE NEW
>MOTOR FOR THE HEATER FAN IS NOT A BOLT IN. YOU NEED TO GRIND DOWN THE MOUNTING
>BRACKETS SO THAT THE REPALCEMENT MOTOR WILL FIT. IF YOU NEED TO TRY THIS JOB
>SEND ME A NOTE AND I'LL GIVE WHATEVER HELP I CAN... GOOD LUCK... FROM ONE
>WHO HAS BEEN THERE.....

  A friend and I did a similiar job on his 1983, and I would say that it's 
easier to just drill through the motor housing mount to match it up to the
older style mounting bracket in the car and grind down the blades. Also if
you have a newer model Volvo (I think 1986 or later) do it yourself anyway.
The problem is Volvo changed the heater fan design and stopped making the old
one. The new fan fits, but with modification. If you have one designed for
the newer fan it's a piece of cake. 

-Alex Rosser
 lxrosser@cco.caltech.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: LJ09735@LMSC5.IS.LMSC.LOCKHEED.COM (Jeff Schaefer)
Subject: Re: Funny sounds from 1985 Civic's front end
Organization: O/19-61
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 92 05:37:03 GMT

In article <1992Nov16.153512.2188@kocrsv01.delcoelect.com>, c23st@kocrsv01.delcoelect.com (Spiros Triantafyllopoulos) writes:
> 
> Hi folks,
> 
> I have a couple of questions about a couple of sounds coming from my
> 1985 Honda Civic. It's got 128,000 miles on, and still runs original
> suspension components. Tires are cheap firestones. It's a 5 speed,
> with clutchwork done at 80,000 miles (brake job also that time).
> 
> The first is a wailing sound when I back up the car. Does not make any
> difference whether I back up straight, or curve, hot/cold. It stops
> after 20-30 feet. It's quite embarassing :-)
> 
> The second is a sloght grinding, metal on metal noise coming off the
> front end that goes away when I hit the brakes. It is not like I am
> grinding stones or anything, it is not loud. It occurs at varying speeds,
> usually between 35-60 mph. 
> 
> So, am I in for the big one(s)? The tranny shifts OK, no funny vibrations,
> etc etc. The CV boots may have been screwed up a bit a while back, I had
> them checked maybe a year ago. Are we talking CV joints? Flamethrower?
> donate-for-scrap or a cheaper solution? The car is only used in the winter
> and is driven minimally the rest of the year. Oil changes every 3K miles.
> 
> Any help will be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Spiros
> -- 
> Spiros Triantafyllopoulos                    c23st@kocrsv01.delcoelect.com
> Software Technology, Delco Electronics       (317) 451-0815
> GM Hughes Electronics, Kokomo, IN 46904      [A Different Kind of Disclaimer]
> 
> 
Chances are good that one or more CV joints are dying.  I had similar sounds 
emminating from the front of my 1980 Honda and replacing the joints cured it.
Another way to check is to find an empty parking lot, stop the car, turn the 
wheels all the way to the left and then slowly start moving.  If you hear a
muted grinding/clicking sound then the outside right joint is gone.  Repeat the
procedure to the right to find out the condition of the left joint.  It is 
much more straight forward to replace the whole driveshaft instead of replacing
individual joints, though. Especially since your car has so many miles on it!
Hope this helps!!

-Jeff
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu (REAL LIFE?!?!  HA!!)
Subject: Re: How anti-lock brakes work (may start an interesting discussion)
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Distribution: na
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1992 23:30:24 GMT

tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen) writes:

>In article <1992Nov20.145407.15733@linus.mitre.org> jdouglas@MITRE.org (Jason Douglas) writes:
>>It certainly seems to make sense that independent control of each wheel 
>>will result in shorter stops: why reduce the breaking of wheels which are 
>>not skidding ?  The only logical reason is to reduce the cost of the 
>>system.

>i can think of another reason: reduction of yaw.  if one brake on an
>axle is released while the other is still being applied, the forces 
>will not be equal and you will get some rotation.
>whether maximum braking is preferable to reduction of yaw is another question.

True, but I think you will find that the change in yaw is negligible.  Let's
trake two scenarios:

Scenario 1)	All four wheels on wet pavement.  Panic stop.  Naturally the
		four wheels will reach threshold slightly aout of phase.  The
		ABS system, I believe, can cycle up to twelve times a second.
		At that rate, the different timing between the four wheels will
		not be noticed; the overall effect is relatively even braking.

Scenario 2)	Two wheels on ice, two wheels on dry pavement.  Panic stop.
		The right wheels (the ones on ice, sorry) will reach threshold
		much more rapidly than the left wheels.  ABS activates on the
		right wheels; threshold braking is retained.  Greater braking
		force on the left produces yaw to the left.

Scenario 3)	Two wheels on ice.  No ABS. Panic stop.  Again, the right
		wheels will lock before the left ones.  But here's the thing:
		Without ABS, the right ones will continue to slide.  A sliding
		tire has much less friction than one kept at threshold, so
		the difference between left and right is greater than with ABS,
		resulting in greater yaw.

BTW, I wasn't following this thread, but I'm pretty sure (a certain invitation
for a flame) that the four brakes are modulated independently.  Is anyone com-
pletely certain that this is not the case?  I have looked at the modulator on
the BMW's, and it has six fittings:  two in and four out.  Sounds like four-
wheel-independent control to me.

The biggest problem with the yaw thing is that by reducing the brakes, you are
increasing the deceleration.  And when the ABS is working, you know you are at
maximum deceleration, so there is really no way that the cycled wheel will have
less deceleration than the uncycled one, unless the same case would exist
without ABS.

$0.02
===
Michael T. Chaffee        |******BOYCOTT COLORADO******|  ______    
mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu | Professional Slapthologist |  \    /     HATE
Member, Universal Life Church, Sect of Loons           |   \  /  can never be
Annoyance Theatre Platinum Member |     Evil Genius    |    \/  a FAMILY VALUE
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: zrol01@trc.amoco.com (Richard O. Lindsay)
Subject: Re: Engine swap in Jaguar
Reply-To: zrol01@trc.amoco.com
Organization: Amoco Production Company, Tulsa Research
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 18:22:27 GMT

Thanks for the strong advice.

Rick
------------------------------------------------------------
     Richard O. Lindsay        /     __  __      __  __
  Senior Research Scientist   /   / /_/ /_  / / /_/ /_/
  Amoco Production Research  /   / / / /_/ /_/ / / / \
                            / /_/
                           /

Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance 
to persons living or dead is just luck. May cause drowsiness. 
Alcohol may intensify this effect. 
------------------------------------------------------------

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: schludermann@sscvx1.ssc.gov
Subject: RFI:Regappable Platinium Plugs
Organization: Superconducting Super Collider Laboratory
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 02:39:15 GMT

  Would anyone know of platinium plugs that are regappable? The Bosch I
tried are next to impossbile to regap and lack sufficent electrode material.
I've experimented with regular plugs and found with the MSD system I could
open the gap to .09-.1". I would like to experiment next with some platinium
type plugs.

thanxs

kris

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: Cliff_Lum@mindlink.bc.ca (Cliff Lum)
Subject: Re: RFI:Regappable Platinium Plugs
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 08:17:42 GMT

> schludermann@sscvx1.ssc.gov writes:
>
> Msg-ID: <1992Nov19.203915.1@sscvx1.ssc.gov>
> Posted: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 02:39:1
>
> Org.  : Superconducting Super Collider Laboratory
>
>   Would anyone know of platinium plugs that are regappable? The Bosch I
> tried are next to impossbile to regap and lack sufficent electrode
> material.
> I've experimented with regular plugs and found with the MSD system I could
> open the gap to .09-.1". I would like to experiment next with some
> platinium
> type plugs.
>
> thanxs
>
> kris
>

NGK sells a couple of types of platinum plugs. they sell one that looks like
a regular plug except for the center electrode which is platinum and a VX
platinum plug which is cheaper since  it is more generic and needs gapping to
a particular application.
 Hope that helps
From: jskean@unlinfo.unl.edu (jonathan skean)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Analog Brake Light
Date: 17 Nov 1992 16:53:33 GMT
Organization: University of Nebraska--Lincoln	
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: unlinfo.unl.edu

>-> Has anyone seen or heard of a brake light system that indicates the
>-> degree of deceleration of the vehicle?   Maybe a different number of
>-> lights, or increasing light intensity, or flashing lights, etc.

> GM played with such a system as far back as the early '50s.  Quite
>rightfully, they decided that if someone wasn't going to pay attention
>to the lights already on the car, they wouldn't pay attention to any
>further light show.

There was a system sold for motorcycles about 15 years ago which flashed
a second amber center high intensity lamp in addition to the standard
steady red brake lamp.  The frequency of the flashes was proportional to
the deceleration.  I believe it was called the "Cyber-light" or something
similar.  The ads claimed that the seller could prove that it dramatically
reduced rear collisions for bikes equipped with the device.  Never saw one
myself and I had my doubts for the specific application since bikes of
the time could stop so much better than cars of the time anyway.  Basically,
if you drive too fast with someone tailgating you and have to stop quickly,
you will be in for an adventure no matter what kind of brake lights you have.
Still, I'd like to see the data supporting the claims for the Cyberlight.
--
Jonathan Skean                     usenet: JSKEAN@UNL.EDU
502 Hamilton Hall                  bitnet: JSKEAN%UNL.EDU@UNLVAX1
University of Nebraska              voice: (402)472-2684
Lincoln, NE 68588-0304   USA          fax: (402)472-9402
From: ef7@prism.gatech.edu (Ed Fair)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Triumph Spitfire idle problem
Date: 20 Nov 92 15:46:13 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Information Technology

> -> Although it idles ok at first (at about 850-950 rpm), after about
> -> ten seconds the idle starts to fall, and the engine stalls, unless I
> -> rev it a bit. After another ten seconds of idling, the same happens.

i'd look carefully at the float valve.  maybe it's sticking when
the volume of fuel consumption is low?  just an uneducated guess.

ed
From: gallant@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Robert Gallant)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Cranking to Cold Cranking Amps
Date: 23 Nov 92 20:44:09 GMT
Reply-To: gallant@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Robert Gallant)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

Is there a way to convert a batteries rating of Cranking amps (32 deg) to cold
cranking (0 deg)?

Thanks
Rob
gallant@oasys.dt.navy.mil
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: clarification on antilock brakes (was More on anti-lock brakes
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 19 Nov 92 11:17:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> you will be surprised to learn that some high priced japanese cars
-> use 3 channel systems.. the infiniti j30 if i'm not mistaken.  they
-> even brag about it in their ads!!!

 So is the Corvette, for some mysterious reason.  And it could really
use a four channel system.
From: shaig@Think.COM (Shai Guday)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Tires, Snow, PSI, and Questions
Date: 18 Nov 1992 21:32:33 GMT
Organization: Thinking Machines Corporation, Cambridge MA, USA
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: galaxy.think.com


I have a Escort GT with a set of Michelin HGT 195/60 in the front
and Cooper 1000 195/60 in the back.  Although both sets have a relatively
heavy tread pattern and are rated all season, I was thinking of getting
a tire chains, until I read the owners manual that said that chains
should not be used on 195/60.

1. No reason was given, does anyone know why?
2. What tire pressure is best for driving in snow?
   When driving on sand I usually bleed tire pressure so as to increase
   the surface area, does the opposite hold true for snow?
3. What is the correct tire pressure for this car? Both tires
   recommend a max of 35 psi and the manual refers me to the door
   post sticker (non-existent when I bought the car).

	All contributions gratefully received,

	Shai
From: SDOGGETT@cmsa.gmr.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Valve work techniques
Date: 19 Nov 92 19:29:47 GMT
Organization: GM Research Labs

>After removing the head cylinder, it has been sugested to me, you
>can check on the quality of the seal between the valve face and the
>valve seat by pouring gasoline or some such into the intake or exaust
>ports on the head.  If the gasoline leaks its way around the valves
>then some work on the valves is required.  Is this a valid test?
>     If it turns out that work does need to be done, how far can
>hand lapping the vavles be taken; when is it neccessary to have
>a machine shop grind the valves
>
Yes, this will work, but you're not considering the whole picture.  You also
have to consider tha condition of the valve guides.  On so many engines they
wear out just as fast as the seats do.  Lapping as you are suggesting is for l
awnmowers.  If the seats are worn, have a macine shop grind the valvesand seats
 Do it right.  Any decent shop also knows the guides must be in spec before the
 seats can be ground properly.  Lapping will cause an uneven seat and or a seat
 that is not flat.  Actual contact is critical and your seat ends up too wide.
You've gone thru the worse part which is taking it all apart, so why skimp now?
Don't say money either!!!  Skimping will cost you more in the long run. Spencer
 Doggett

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bernie@metapro.DIALix.oz.au (Bernd Felsche)
Subject: Re: Bosch LE-2 Jetronic schematics?
Organization: MetaPro Systems, Perth, Western Australia
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 92 04:51:43 GMT

In <1992Nov17.223537.2707@ml.csiro.au> clift@ml.csiro.au (Steve Clift) writes:

>| _Bosch Fuel Injection & Engine Management_,
>| Charles O. Probst, SAE
>| Robert Bentley, Publishers
>| ISBN 0-8376-0300-5

>Thanks - I'll try to unearth a copy.  I received, and replied to, email

I found a copy on a bookshelf in a technical bookstore. If
it's not there, you can ask at the counter. I order my Golf
manual from the same publisher and got it in about 2 weeks.

>| > When set up in a test rig which simulates the engine sensors, the thing
>| > works fine - identical to a known good unit.

>| Did I read this right?  Surely then it is a sensor/injector electrical
>| fault.......

>It's more subtle than that.  This unit runs OK in a test rig I made up
>(a function generator to simulate the ignition pulses and three pots to
>simulate the air sensor and thermistors), producing identical injector
>timing to good unit.  Put it in a vehicle (*any* vehicle) and the
>engine will fire but not run.  It's probably something simple (most of
>the thing is evidently working correctly), but without a schematic to
>work with, I haven't made much progress.

Maybe the fuel-pump relay control isn't working correctly?
The fuel pump gets cut off by the control signal after a
short time, if the engine is not "turning".
-- 
+-----+ Bernd Felsche                     _--_|\  #include <std/disclaimer.h>
| | | | MetaPro Systems Pty Ltd          /      \ bernie@metapro.DIALix.oz.au
| | | | 328 Albany Highway,              X_.--._/         Fax: +61 9 472 3337
|m|p|s| Victoria Park, Western Australia 6100  v        Phone: +61 9 362 9355
From: avk@hafnium.cchem.berkeley.edu (Tony Konashenok)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Any Ford 351M engine and carb guru out there?
Date: 20 Nov 1992 01:46:50 GMT
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: hafnium.cchem.berkeley.edu

I have a '79 Ford T-bird with a 351M engine and a stock carb.
The engine behavior is normal in all modes but one: when I sharply
floor the gas pedal from a stop, the revs grow for about 0.3 s and
then suddenly drop; unless I release the gas pedal and pump it 
again, the engine stalls (or hardly escapes it). When the car goes
downhill (really steep grade), this thing is sometimes caused by 
pressing  the pedal in the normal, smooth way. The carb was
recently spray-cleaned - no effect. I suspect three possible
causes:
 1. Stock carb does not provide for maximum pick-up on a 351M
 2. Accel. pump is not performing to spec
 3. One of numerous vacuum hoses is leaking (but which one?...)

Any ideas, hints, tricks and magic words on remedying this problem
will be greatly appreciated.

-- 
Tony Konashenok   avk@hafnium.cchem.berkeley.edu   (510)843-5632 (home)
University of California, Berkeley                 (510)642-5831 (office)

Strauss research group, Latimer Hall, UC Berkeley, Berkeley CA 94720, U.S.A.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ppa@col.hp.com (Paul Austgen)
Subject: Re: Why 2 vacuum breaks on ca
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 16:42:48 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division

donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel)  writes:
> 
> 
>   !@#Do these relationships change under load?  Is one just a backup if the
>   !@#other fails?
> One of the breaks should have it's vacuum supply fed through a thermal
> vacuum switch...this delays its operation till car is warmer and then it
> opens choke substantially more..
>                                                         Don
> 
This sounds plausible to me.  On my Buick, however, each break
has a hose that goes directly to the carb, and they appear to
pull in as soon as the car starts.  Maybe it's just a poor
design.  The hose routing appears to match the sticker on the
car.  Maybe the vacuum from these ports varies under heavy loads,

Thanks for your reply.
Paul
> 
>  * SLMR 2.1a * I'm too poor to have a TAG!
>       
> ----
> Ye Olde Bailey BBS
> Houston,Texas
> Node 1: 1 713 520 1569
> yob.sccsi.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech