HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: msmith@col.hp.com (Mike Smith)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Air valves for steam radiators
Date: 18 Dec 1992 16:42:29 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division
NNTP-Posting-Host: la.col.hp.com


While on the subject of steam heat, let me throw in my two cents worth.

A recent problem (details follow) with my boiler prompts me to say clearly,

**  Regulary purge/test/flush your low water cutoff!! Do it with the burner
    running so you both flush the cutoff and verify that it works.

What happens if you don't you ask???

When I bought my old house (2 years ago) I was told "once a month, open the
valve on the low water cutoff and drain till water runs clear". No problem,
sez I, that is pretty straightforward. I did what I had been told, but I
did it with a cold system. Besides, the knob on the low water cutoff was
small, close to the water outlet, and really hard to open much less close
all the way (so it didn't continue dripping).

Last week I stepped out of the shower and smelled something burning, I 
eventually made my way to a smoke filled basement and discovered smoke
leaking out of the sheet metal boiler jacket. I turned off the gas and
electricity and let things cool down. I also called the fire dept. just
in case things were on the verge of getting real ugly. They (the fire dept)
seemed annoyed that some dumb homeowner would interrupt their morning
for a little smoke in the basement. Their first comment was 'have you 
called your plumber yet?'.

Anyway, the low water cutoff hadn't, the boiler was dry, the gaskets
between the boiler sections had fried, and the parts (gaskets) had to
come from the factory. By definition, the parts were not shipped via
overnight, the weather got cold ( single digits overnight, overcast and
20s during the day) and a plumber and his helper spent about 15 hours
on disassembly and repair. My wife was not amused when I told her my
Christmas shopping was now complete (ie: she got a 'new' boiler for
Chritmas).

I was told, by my plumber who will no doubt be vactioning some place
warm this winter (compliments of my boiler), that the 'correct' low
water cutoff flush was with the system running and under a pound or two of
pressure. The cuttof should cutoff within a second or two and then I can
close the valve.

What can I say? Live and learn! Hopefully my lesson can spare someone
else the same fun. Boiler is a Weil-McLain 450,000 BTU gas fired affair.
House is 102 years old (and still standing fortunately).

Happy Holidays !!

Mike Smith


Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,rec.woodworking
From: fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com (Fred Christiansen)
Subject: staining pine vs staining lauan
Organization: Motorola Computer Group, RT Software
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 01:42:02 GMT

The interior doors I'm buying are lauan.  The (prehung) door frames are pine.
The bare wood lauan varies somewhat from door to door.  I'd like
to stain the lauan to something approximating your typical dark oak.
I don't anticipate problems finding a stain for this (altho I'm
certainly open to suggestions).  However, I'm uncertain if pine
will stain to something acceptably matching.

Can one stain pine and lauan (possibly with two stains) to something
acceptably similar?  Thx.
-- 
Fred Christiansen, Motorola, 2900 S Diablo Way, Tempe, AZ 85282  "Canajun, eh?"
fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com  ||  uunet!phx.mcd.mot.com!fredch  ||  +1 602-438-3464
  ".. I have set before you Life and Death, blessing and cursing;  therefore
      choose Life, that both you and your children may live"  Deut 30:19
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com (Fred Christiansen)
Subject: Re: Attic Insulation
Organization: Motorola Computer Group, RT Software
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 17:39:51 GMT

In article <1992Dec17.060708.23176@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (patterson,george r) writes:
> 2) I just finished insulating a floor. I started with Manville (the Gold
>    stuff sold by Home Depot) and bought some Dow (the pink stuff we all
>    know and love)

Does Dow own Owens-Corning (of "Pink Panther" insulation)?  CertainTeed
insulation is also yellow/gold in color.  I've never seen Knauf insulation
so I don't know its color.  Anyway, these guys are the only ones I know
of who make fiberglass batt insulation.
-- 
Fred Christiansen, Motorola, 2900 S Diablo Way, Tempe, AZ 85282  "Canajun, eh?"
fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com  ||  uunet!phx.mcd.mot.com!fredch  ||  +1 602-438-3464
  ".. I have set before you Life and Death, blessing and cursing;  therefore
      choose Life, that both you and your children may live"  Deut 30:19
From: paula@nlbbs.UUCP (Paula Stockholm)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: (clothes) DRYER worth fixing?
Date: 13 Dec 92 10:00:51 GMT
Reply-To: paula@nlbbs.uucp
Organization: The Electronics Workbench - Cumberland Maine


        Helpful info: ALL Kenmore Dryers are made by Whirlpool. Most
        appliance parts stores have crossreferences that will allow you
        to save a couple dollars (and probably, headaches) by avoiding
        Sears.

        The same stores should have Whirlpool's generic do it yourself
        guide to dryer repair - they're terrific!  Check the limit
        thermostats before jumping to the conclusion that the element is
        bad.

        * * * * * * * * * * * * * *  * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
	*   Paula Stockholm              paula@nlbbs.UUCP        *
	*  Cumberland, Maine          !nlbbs!paula@uunet.uu.net  *
	* * *  * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
From: shannah@netcom.com (Teri Miller)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: ANTS! Helllllllllllllllp!!!
Date: 17 Dec 92 22:31:00 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Netcom Online Communications Services (408-241-9760 login: guest)

In article <1992Dec17.183708.7849@cbnewsm.cb.att.com> mks@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (manishkumar.sharma) writes:
>We have recently noticed ants in several rooms of our house. THese are the
>black variety about 1/8" in length. We sprayed an ant&roach killer which
>keeps them out for a couple of days, but they return, especially at night,
>so that we see several of them crawling around in the morning. Our
>kitchen is usually spotless, so there is no food remnants for them and so
>is our carpet.
>
>Is there a DIY way of getting rid of them permanently?
>Will 20-Mule Borax work on them (it works on fleas)?
>
>Thanks for any suggestions.
>
The first thing to do is to follow in Richard Feynman's excellent
footsteps, and observe ant behavior.

There has to be a reason why they are entering your house.  If there 
is nothing particularly appetizing for them in there, then they must
be really desperate.  Are they starving where they are, or fleeing
poisons in a neighbor's yard?

The key is to figure out where they are entering your house, and use 
a long-lasting pelleted ant killer on those areas.  (Outdoors)  Once
you have "blocked" all the entrances with ant killer, wipe up any
ants you find indoors (and any ant trails you can locate) with hot 
water.

If you find even one "route discovery packet ant" (as we call 'em
at Cisco) wipe it up and any trail you can locate, with hot water.
Don't just squish and forget it, because it will have left behind
the trail, which will just make it easier for the next scout!

They are attracted by grease and sweet foods.  We found that even
leaving some soda droplets in soda cans when putting them into the
recycle bin would attract them.  

In misc.rural, I read that Cream of Wheat, poured on the anthill,
would kill them.  I dunno.  I tried it, and while it didn't seem
to completely eliminate the hill, it did reduce the amount of ants
coming out of there for some time.  Since it's non-toxic, and
cheap, you might consider giving it a try.  Pour it on dry, right 
out of the box, and see what happens.

-- 
*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*
Teri Miller                    tmiller@cisco.com -or- shannah@netcom.com
*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*
From: auidcc@ducvax.auburn.edu
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: T1-11  What is it?
Date: 18 Dec 92 18:24:07 GMT
Organization: Auburn University, AL

In article <1992Dec18.004703.132832@ultramac.uucp>, GioF@ultramac.uucp (Gio Favignano) writes:
> Just curious.  Anybody know about this for siding.  How good is it?
> 
> 					thanks,
> --
> 				       howie              
> 
> 				       howie@voodoo.boeing.com
> 
> 
> Basically it's a plywood product made with 1/2" or 5/8" stock.
> It has vertical grooves routed in it, simulating planks running up and down.
> It doesn't come weather treated, so you will need to treat it with stain or
> paint.
> GioF@oui.com      
> St. Louis, Mo.

I have it on my house and have a terrible problem with mildew.  I assume
that the siding is the source of the problem.  I do not have any of the
usual causes for mildew - house is well insulated & has proper vapor
barrier on heated side of insulation, house is on high foundation on a
steeply sloping lot so there is no water standing, no trees close to house
to shade it & retain moisture on the house.  I can't say for sure that
the siding is the problem, but I would never take a chance on it again.

Steve
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,rec.food.cooking
From: miorelli@pwa-b.uucp (BoB Miorelli)
Subject: Is a convection oven worth the cost ??
Organization: Pratt & Whitney Aircraft
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 16:05:53 GMT

Hi --

My wife and I are building a house and are currently on the search
for kitchen appliances.  We've pretty much decided upon a Jennair (sp)
cooktop with the built-in grill and various other modules.  Jennair
also sells a combination bake/convection oven.  I know what a regular
bake oven is, I know all about microwave ovens, but I'm not really
up on the pros/cons of a convection oven.  My limited understanding is that
they circulate the heat and cook MUCH faster than a regular oven.  Anyone
shed some light on the advantages/disadvantages of a convection oven?
Also, any opinions on any of the Jennair line would certainly be welcome.


Thanks.

-- 

-->BoB Miorelli, Pratt & Whitney Aircraft
                 also, H & R Block Tax preparer and Instructor
pwa-b!miorelli or miorelli@mstr.hgc.edu
From: sheets@inland.com (The Dreamer)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: OneTime MIP = Cashback ?
Date: 15 Dec 92 10:08:03 CST
Organization: Inland Steel Company; East Chicago, IN

I recently refinanced my home for which I had a FHA HUD
Mortgage originally.  The new mortgage is conventional.  The
Title work person told me at the refinancing closing that I
should receive a partial refund of the $3000 onetime MIP that
I paid on my original FHA loan of $83,000.

Is this true ?
How much will I get back on a 30 year FHA loan which I essentially
paid back after 2 years (refinanced) ?

Any advise would be appreciated...

THANKS !!!
-- 
Dean Sheets                ^  "The Dreamer..."                                 
Inland Steel Research Labs ^  Internet:  Sheets@Inland.com
East Chicago, IN          _|_ UUCP:      ...!uunet!Inland!Sheets    
219 399 8043               |  Quality Starts on the Inside...
From: darrenl@natinst.com (Darren Lilie)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Need info on outside antennas.
Date: 14 Dec 1992 10:38:37 -0600
Organization: National Instruments, Austin, TX
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: eagle.natinst.com

We just got a 50" big screen tv and for some reason the 
reception is terrible.  On our smaller tvs the reception was great
with ordinary rabbit ears.  Its not that the screen is bigger so that
we are noticing more interference, the channels are hardly coming in
at all.  So anyway, we put up an outside antenna and it helped greatly
but there are still ghost images or shadows.  We would turn the antenna
a little and it would clear up one station but the other would come fuzzy.
I have the following questions:
Has anyone ever used those mast rotators where you can turn the antenna
from inside your house? Can anyone recommend one? I've seen them at K-mart,
Wal-Mart, and Radio Shack.
Should I put one of those grounding isolators in line on the antenna cable
(those kind you get at radio shack and connect to a ground rod.) The antenna
itself is connected to the ground rod. 

Also, is there any great difference in reception if the antenna were raised
or lowered by a few feet.  You see, we have a big oak tree next to the house
and we wanted the antenna to be lower than that so that hopefully lightning
would strike the tree and not the antenna.  My dad didnt even want an outside
antenna because of the possibility of attracting lightning. (We are on a hill)

The tv has no manual fine tuning so looks like the outside antenna is the
only way to go.

Any help with the above questions would be appreciated.

Darren

P.S.  We dont have cable in our area so that idea is out.
From: egreen@east.sun.com (Ed Green - Pixel Cruncher)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: How to tell a REAL buyer's agent
Date: 18 Dec 1992 16:17:35 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, RTP, NC
Distribution: world
Reply-To: egreen@east.sun.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: laser.east.sun.com

In article IFA@magpie.nycenet.edu, manes@magpie.nycenet.edu (Steve Manes) writes:
>Ed Green - Pixel Cruncher (egreen@east.sun.com) wrote:
>: Compared with other professions, where fudicial, moral, and ethical
>: loyalty between the professional and his client are clear, the RE
>: industry has *institutionalized* a system whereby there is a huge
>: potential for abuse.

>A real estate agent is a salesman, plain and simple, and
>is no more "morally bankrupt" than the guy who sells you a suit or
>a mutual fund or patio furniture or Kawasaki Ninja or WHATEVER. 

Really?  When was the last time a patio furniture salesman drove you
all over town looking at patio furniture, spent weekends discussing
your patio with you, advised you on the resale value of your furniture,
and purported to negotiate with the patio furniture manufacturer on
your behalf?

It is blatently obvious who the mutual fund or motorcycle salesman
works for, where his loyalties lie, who is paying his commission, and
whose interests he represents.  In the traditional model of the RE
industry, such loyalty of the selling agent is not at all so clear, and
there are many RE's who, at best, will not actively work to correct a
buyer's mistaken impression that they are working for the buyer.

>If you work for any company, in any kind of capacity, it is
>also expected (on both sides) that when communicating with a potential
>company client that you will varnish the truth in favor of the folks
>who sign your paycheck even if it means being less than candid about
>the flaws in your product.

Speak for yourself, Steve.


---
Ed Green, former Ninjaite |I was drinking last night with a biker,
  Ed.Green@East.Sun.COM   |and I showed him a picture of you.  I said,
DoD #0111  (919)460-8302  |"Go on, get to know her, you'll like her!"
 (The Grateful Dead) -->  |It seemed like the least I could do...

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Subject: Re: Circuit Breaker Question
Originator: clewis@bcarh1d7
Organization: Never!
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 17:44:13 GMT

In article <1992Dec14.132724.15350@cs.wayne.edu> mje@pookie.pass.wayne.edu writes:

>My panel is divided into two sections. The bus is interrupted halfway down, with 
>the lower half fed off a 60/60 breaker on the upper half.

>The upper half also has 220 breakers for the garage (where there's a small
>sub panel), oven, and a no-longer used 220 outlet that a previous owner used
>for a kiln, All the 110 outlets are on the lower half of the panel. Thus, the
>60/60 breaker feeding the lower half also funtions as a disconnect for the 
>lower half.

>I'd like to add a pair of new 20 amp circuits, but the lower half is already
>at the 60/amp per side limit of the breaker feeding it. There would be plenty of
>room on the upper half if I removed the unused kiln breaker. 

>Is there anything in the code preventing me from doing this? 

No.  However, if there's no main breaker, you shouldn't add more breakers
than you're removing - there's a limit to the numbers of breakers that
can be fed off an unbreakered main (the number "6" rings a bell here).

Nor is there anything in the code to prevent you from putting your breakers
in the lower half - the breakers can add up to more than their disconnect.
However, it's probably better to put it in the upper half so that the lower
breakers aren't constrained by the 60A total limit.  On the other hand, if you
don't have a main disconnect, putting the new circuits "before" the 60A dual
will make those circuits a little harder to work on.

>BTW, the panel is a Federal Pacific, and simple 20A breakers for it cost $25!

Bizarre.  Up here, where everything costs 50% more than it does in the states,
you can get single 15A and 20A FPE breakers for under $15.  Sometimes under $10.
Even duals are usually around $15-16.

[Unless "Federal Pacific" != FPE - I thought FPE was "Federal Pioneer".
Whatever.  Some people call them federal-noblows and other stronger names
unsuitable for a public forum, but I've not had any trouble with them at all.]

>I'm contemplating finishing off the attic, at which point I suppose I'll just 
>have to replace the whole panel, but that's a couple of years off.

If your main is big enough, there should be no reason for that.  In fact,
if the whole panel is rated for the main current, you may be able to replace
the 60A dual breaker feeding the lower section with something larger.  Check the
panel ratings first.

Does this thing have a main switch/breaker?  If it does, you could probably
replace the 60A dual with a pair of suitably large wires and turn it into one
big panel.

Probably worth a couple of questions of your local electrical inspector.
From: cab@col.hp.com (Chris Best)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Circuit Breaker Question
Date: 14 Dec 1992 17:42:58 GMT
Organization: your service
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: hpctdke.col.hp.com

> My panel is divided into two sections. The bus is interrupted halfway down, with 
> the lower half fed off a 60/60 breaker on the upper half.
> 
> I'd like to add a pair of new 20 amp circuits, but the lower half is already
> at the 60/amp per side limit of the breaker feeding it. There would be plenty of
> room on the upper half if I removed the unused kiln breaker. 

----------

If there's room on the bottom, put 'em there.  You can have breakers
that add up to more than the supply (in fact it's common).  All that's
going on is, you're allowing each circuit to draw up to its marked
current, up to a total not exceeding 60 amps.  Since each individual
circuit typically doesn't draw the maximum, it works fine, and you're
still protected from using more than 60 amps.

If you do replace the box in the future, don't get FPE again.  (Just
my opinion, but it was well supported in a previous discussion.)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: bparrish@rose.hp.com (Bill Parrish)
Subject: Re: Need info on outside antennas.
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 19:13:24 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: HP - Systems Technology Division
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.8 PL6]

  Regarding a big-screen TV which has problems with reception.

  The fact that your other TVs receive fine with a rabbit-ears suggests
  to me that perhaps the new TV may be defective, or mis-configured.  I
  know many TVs have lots of places to connect antennas, cable, etc.
  and I'm wondering if the either the TV is bad, or perhaps something
  is mis-connected.  Sometimes those splitter dealies they give  you
  with a new TV are defective also.  If your rabbit-ears has twin-lead
  on it, and you have it shoved into a coax connector on the new TV, 
  you have an impedance mis-match, and need a converter ($2-3 from
  Radio Shack or a hardware store).

  Here's what I would try... get hold of a VCR with its OWN TUNER in it
  (most have one) and then get it working with one of your small TVs.
  THEN connect it directly to the new TV (preferably use AUDIO/VIDEO
  connection rather than RF if you have it)  and see if the reception
  is good.  If the reception looks OK through the VCR tuner, then the tuner
  or configuration on the big-screen is probably defective.  

Just from personal experience, our TV has multiple antenna connections,
and we have an external antenna connected to one of the two.  If you
select EXTERNAL ANTENNA from the menu, you get the external antenna... if
you select  CABLE A  you STILL get the external antenna, but the UHF
channels now receive the cable frequencies instead of the real UHF
channel frequencies.  If you select CABLE B, the tuner is connected to the
CABLE-B jack, and you would get a bunch of snow, or maybe just a little
bit of picture from a local station.  If you connect the antenna to the CABLE B
jack, and select CABLE B from the menu, VHF comes in fine, but UHF is scrambled
onto different channels.  I'm suspicious that you have the antenna on the
wrong jack, or that something is mis-selected on the menus... or who knows,
maybe something is really wrong.  

Sorry this went on so long, but it may help to understand the problem to 
work through my example.

Good luck,

Bill
From: rstarr@pollux.svale.hp.com (Rob Starr)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Water Pressure Regulators
Date: 17 Dec 92 16:34:38 GMT
Organization: Hewlett Packard CPCD, Sunnyvale CA

Has anybody ever installed a water pressure regulator on their main water
line entering the house?  Are there any benefits to lowering & regulating
the water pressure, e.g., easier on valves & faucets.  I have monitored my
home water pressure and it is about 70-85 psig.  At the local home supply,
a 1" regulator is about $65.00.

If a regulator is installed, what is the preferred pressure?

Thanks
Rob Starr
From: rstarr@pollux.svale.hp.com (Rob Starr)
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 16:33:38 GMT
Subject: Re: X10 questions
Organization: Hewlett Packard CPCD, Sunnyvale CA
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house

It turns out that virtually all X-10 modules, regardless of the name on it,
is/are actually made by X-10 Powerhouse (Closter, New Jersey).  X-10 makes
the modules for someone like Radio Shack with Radio Shack's name, logo, etc.
Radio Shack has a new product to sell; X-10 sells more modules and gets
increased penetration of their standard.

The modules are made in China; labor is so cheap, it is almost free (compared
to material).

Rob Starr
From: bsmith@stake.DaytonOH.NCR.COM (ROBERT SMITH)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Frosted Heat Pump
Date: 14 Dec 92 16:41:06 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Stakeholder Relations, NCR Corp in Dayton,OH

I was working in the back yard this weekend when I noticed that the heat pump
was completely frozen -- it had a thick layer of frost, like an old freezer,
inside and out.  I turned on the emergency heat, which shuts down the heat
pump, and I'm waiting for it to thaw out.  I then plan to turn it on again to
see if the problem recurs.

Anyway, what could have caused this?  Any ideas on how much it might cost to
have repaired?  I have an American Home Shield warranty with a $95 deductible.
 If I call them, it virtually guarantees that I pay $95 (from experience, I
learned that, by an amazing coincidence, the bill exceeds $95.)  If I call a
service guy, it's $35 plus ~$40/hour plus parts.

Thanks in advance for any help.
-- 
Bob Smith
E-mail => Robert.D.Smith@daytonoh.ncr.com
From: peper@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (Mike Peper)
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1992 21:46:07 GMT
Subject: Re: Problem with electric water heater
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house

I had the exact same symptoms, and one bad element was at
fault.  I'd bet this is the problem, easily remedied.

--Mike