HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: sham@cs.arizona.edu (Shamim Zvonko Mohamed)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: top five innovations
Date: 28 Aug 92 22:11:09 GMT
Organization: U of Arizona CS Dept, Tucson

In article <1992Aug28.203038.28920@cas.org> kxh26@cas.org (Kenneth D. Huffman) writes:
>[Sarcasm on]

>I hear the latest technology from Sakae is Ovaltech wheels.  They'd match
>your biopace chainrings perfectly.  Like the unique technology which went
>into their Ovaltech chainrings, the Ovaltech wheels are not round.
>You constantly feel like you are
>riding speed-bumps (or a constipated camel) and if you brake at the wrong
>time you'll take out a half-dozen spokes

No jokes - I actually saw this once. There is a rather eccentric gentleman
around these parts who rides a variety of strange bikes while wearing only
shoes and *very* skimpy "bikini" briefs. (He's totally bald too, adding to
the effect.)  From what I could see (he was going in the other direction)
he had the wheels synchronised for the "constipated camel" effect, and I
assume he had a rear coaster brake since there were no brake levers.

-s
--
Henri Desgrange, 1902: "Variable gears are only for people over forty-five.
Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles rather than by the
artifice of a derailleur? We are getting soft. Come on, fellows. Let's say that
the test was a fine demonstration---for our grandparents! As for me, give me a
fixed gear!"

  Shamim Mohamed / {uunet,noao,cmcl2..}!arizona!shamim / shamim@cs.arizona.edu
 Member of the League for Programming Freedom - write to league@prep.ai.mit.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: kistler@iowave.physics.uiowa.edu
Subject: Re: I Can't See
Organization: Department of Physics and Astronomy, University of Iowa
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 21:08:28 GMT

In article <RORY.92Aug27124104@ka.wri.com>,
 rory@wri.com (Rory Murtagh) writes:
> 
> In article <1992Aug27.162008.14837@athena.mit.edu> (Joakim Karlsson) writes:
> 
>    I got tired of bugs, rocks, dirt, and branches in my eyes, so
>    I bought some protective eyewear at my local bike store.  ...
>    ...  Slight problem: They fog up.  ...
>    ...  Is there a way to prevent this?  ...
> 
> You could try rubbing some/any detergent on them and them wiping them
> clean.  e.g. Hand soap, disk washer fluid etc.  The small ammount of
> remaining detergent seems to do something with the condensation and the
> lenses remain see through.

The same problem happens to the inside of a facemask when diving.  Divers
use spit to solve the problem.  It's messier than soap, I suppose, but it
works in emergencies on the road.

Allen Kistler
kistler@iowave.physics.uiowa.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Dent in Top Tube
From: news@massey.ac.nz (USENET News System)
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 92 04:50:35 GMT
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech
Organization: SMIS, Massey University

stork+@cs.cmu.edu (David Zabowski) wrote:

> I recently managed to put a minor dent in my top tube.  What I was
> wondering is if this is cause for concern and whether or not I should
> talk to a frame builder about getting a new tube put in?  The frame is
> a Reynolds 531 Double Butted and the dent is rather minor.
> Unfortunately, the dent is probably in the thin walled part of the
> tube.  The bike is definitely a road only bike so it doesn't have to
> deal with the rigors of off road riding.  So, what do you folks think?
> Any relevant information will be greatly appreciated.

IMHO, it's nothing to worry about.  The reason the walls are thin in the
middle is that they don't need to be as strong there.  You should notice no
difference in the performance or longevity of your frame.  I would
recommend covering any bare metal with some touch-up paint, or even nail
polish, to prevent rusting.

--------------------------------------------------------
Phil Etheridge               P.Etheridge@massey.ac.nz
Macintosh Consultant         Phone: +64+6-356-9099 x8689
SMIS, Massey University      Fax:   +64+6-350-5611
Palmerston North, NZ         40*23'S 175*37'E,    GMT+12
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tan@lynx.msc.cornell.edu.UUCP (David Tan,Box 219 Baker Lab,54810,2720402)
Subject: Re: Grease Holes in Hubcaps
Originator: tan@msc2.msc.cornell.edu
Organization: Cornell-Materials-Science-Center
Distribution: usa
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1992 20:05:47 GMT

From article <1992Aug27.230336.18835@TorreyPinesCA.ncr.com>, by jsr@TorreyPinesCA.ncr.com (Joe Riel 3752):
> Why are there grease holes in the dustcaps for (some) hubs?  The
> literature that came with the Campy Chorus hubs stated that these were
> for injecting grease, however, I have never done so nor have heard of
> anyone doing so.

Possibly a bad translation.  The holes are for oil, for use in short time
trials, and for track events.  
Needless to say, oil is a bad idea for training or normal distance racing
wheels!

> 
> Also, is there a good way to remove these dustcaps without bending
> them?

Take the spindle out; they should come off quite easily then.

Dave

> 
> Joe Riel
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: choy@skorpio.usask.ca (I am a terminator.)
Subject: Forging differences
Organization: University of Saskatchewan, Saskatoon, Canada
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 22:20:31 GMT

What are the differences between drop forged and cold forged
objects? I've been told that the cold forged XTR components are
supposed to be really strong.

Henry Choy
choy@cs.usask.ca
From: cjc@ulysses.att.com (Chris Calabrese)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: wax faq
Date: 31 Aug 92 14:39:10 GMT
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories, Murray Hill, NJ

In article <1992Aug30.025559.505@vms.huji.ac.il>, oren@coma.huji.ac.il (Oren Mitz) writes:
|> Hi;
|> 
|>   I hope I am not posting too much qestions that were all ready reviewed.
|> I read all the postings and qestion about waxing chains but I still have
|> a few qestions befor I have the guts to go on and wax my chain.

I don't claim to be the ultimate authority on chain waxing, but I can
give you a few opinions based on my 7 or 8 years of experience with it.

|> 1.  How clean does your chain need to be befor you wax it?

It should be pretty clean.  Most residual dirt will come off in the wax,
but if there's too much you'll have to throw out the wax.
Definitely not good if you use one of the special waxes with lubricants
mixed in (unless you have more money than you know what to do with).

BTW, Dow Bathroom Cleaner (the stuff in the spray can) does a
remarkably good job at cleaning chains if you don't want to fool with
kerosene.

|> 2.  How long do you leave the chain in wax?

I currently use the canned, pre-lubricated stuff designed for bike
chains.  With this stuff, you put the chain on top of the cold wax and
heat until all the wax is melted.

With regular parafin, I melt the stuff first, drop the chain in, swirl
it around for about a minute, and pull it out.

|> How do you take off the wax?

You don't.  The whole point is to have a nice wax coating.

You do have to let the excess drip off (onto newspaper, or some such)
and should continually work the links back and forth while it's drying
(but not when it's still really hot) to avoid "stiff links".

|> 3.  What do I do after I wax my chain?  Do I have to lube it?
|> 4.  Can some one give a full review about the subject?
|> 
|> thankx in advance;
|> 
|> Oren Mitz
|> oren@coma.huji.ac.il
|> -------------------------------------------------------------------------

-- 
Name:			Christopher J. Calabrese
Brain loaned to:	AT&T Bell Laboratories, Murray Hill, NJ
att!ulysses!cjc		cjc@ulysses.att.com
Obligatory Quote:	``pher - gr. vb. to schlepp.
			  phospher - to schlepp light.
			  philosopher - to schlepp thoughts.''
From: harry@cv.hp.com (Harry Phinney)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: top five innovations
Date: 26 Aug 92 18:24:07 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4

davis@ee.rochester.edu (Al Davis) writes:
: ** Biopace **
: It was on this innovation that Suntour, SR, Sugino, etc. publicly admitted
: that Shimano is #1, by blindly copying it.

I disagree.  Suntour, et al admitted that Shimano had convinced the
market that Biopace was good and even necessary.  Consumers were, at the
time, demanding Biopace.  It was a sales feature, and bikes lacking the
feature were more difficult to sell, which forced the other companies to
provide equivalent garbage.  It's called being "market driven", or
giving the customer what they (foolishly) want.

Harry Phinney   harry@hp-pcd.cv.hp.com
From: ericr@dadd.ti.com (Eric Rullan)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Difference between Shimano RX100 and 105 components
Date: 3 Sep 92 15:06:37 GMT
Article-I.D.: csc.1992Sep3.150637.4394
Reply-To: ericr@dadd.ti.com
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech
Organization: Design Automation Division, Texas Instruments Inc

Hi again!  I just wanted to thank everyone who replied to my initial
post regarding the differences between RX100 and 105 components.  Although
not quite unanimous, the large majority of the responses were of the belief
that the difference between the two were cosmetic.

For the record, I've decided to go with the RX100 components.  The cost 
savings will undoubtedly go towards a better frame.

Thanks again!

---
Eric  ericr@dadd.ti.com
   TI pays absolutely no attention to me or my opinions; therefore,
   the foregoing posting cannot possibly represent TI's viewpoint.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: kxh26@cas.org (Kenneth D. Huffman)
Subject: Re: top five innovations
Organization: Chemical Abstracts Service, Columbus, Ohio
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 20:30:38 GMT

In article <4!k-h__@engin.umich.edu> blagdon@engin.umich.edu (Kenneth James Clark ) writes:
>My limited study of engineering would suggest that an elliptical chainring
>could indeed have advantages.  I don't think anyone would try to say that
>we humans put out even power throughout a revolution.  So is the 'uneven'
>cadence the proposed problem?  Is that it?

Nothing like having an oval governor on your bike to prevent a boring, even
cadence.  Nothing like shifting down for a steep hill and having the rings
prevent you from increasing your spin.  Nothing like constantly varying the
angular momentum of your bottom bracket to keep a constant speed. Nothing like
a chain vibrating up and down to cause the front derailleur to be picky.

[Sarcasm on]

I hear the latest technology from Sakae is Ovaltech wheels.  They'd match
your biopace chainrings perfectly.  Like the unique technology which went
into their Ovaltech chainrings, the Ovaltech wheels are not round.  They
use the variance in your weight to optimize the friction against the road!
There are some minor drawbacks though.  You constantly feel like you are
riding speed-bumps (or a constipated camel) and if you brake at the wrong
time you'll take out a half-dozen spokes, but I hear they were able to find
enough biopace chainring suckers to finance this new endeavor.

They are just the latest thing.  Bet you gotta get them before word catches
on that they are dubious technology and they vanish from the stores.  I hear
in four years they will come out with the revolutionary Rountech wheels
which, like Sakae's newer Rountech chainrings, will be an improvement.
Imagine round wheels and chainrings.  Wow.

[Sarcasm off]

>Ken

Ken
-- 
"hello/ computer support/ my shift key doesn't seem to work." - e.e.cummings
Kenneth D Huffman   Work: Chemical Abstracts Service    Play: 2740 Wynnerock Ct
<kxh26@cas.org>           Box 3012, Columbus OH 43210         Hilliard OH 43026
<kxh26@cas.bitnet>        614-447-3838 ext. 2290              614-771-6334
From: andrews@hpopd.pwd.hp.com (andrew smedley)
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 17:05:29 GMT
Subject: Re: creakondale
Organization: Hewlett-Packard ISG-SBU-PWD, UK.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech

 I have also had problems with my 'dale. The squeaking turned out to be
 a loose headset although when riding the bike it seemed almost impossible
 to determine exactly where the noise was coming from. The noise only
 occurred when pushing hard on the pedals. So try tightening that headset!

 Cheers (&beers)

 Andrew.
From: camlau@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: MTB:  How to not trash the rear derailleur?
Summary: does anyone know
Date: 1 Sep 92 15:57:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <87570@netnews.upenn.edu>, vinson@shiva.seas.upenn.edu (Jack Vinson) writes...
> 
>I seem to be pretty good a trashing rear derailleurs on my MTB.  As of
>tomorrow I will have a third since I got my spiffy purple puddle eater back
>in November.............................I've also gone through
>several freewheels 
>So, does anyone have experience in NOT trashing derailleurs?
> 

So, how are your derailleurs trashed?  Do they get trashed from getting
the chain jammed in it?  Or are they getting trashed from rocks and
sticks that get caught in the spokes?
I am a bit curious since I have never trashed a derailleur even though
I have gone through more than my share of freewheels and rear axles.
**bj**
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: pardo@cs.washington.edu (David Keppel)
Subject: Re: Braze-on Question
Organization: Computer Science & Engineering, U. of Washington, Seattle
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 92 01:39:41 GMT

Eric Schweitzer <ERSHC@CUNYVM.BITNET> writes:
>[Riv-nuts can turn, making it impossible to turn remove what's bolted
> on.]

Try (a) a drop of Loc-Tite (tm) or equivalent when you install and if
you're trying to remove one that does turn, try getting a drop of the
glue between the Riv-nut and the frame (thank goodness for capilary
action!)

		;-D oN  ( Brazen Braze-upon )  Pardo
From: josh@Happy-Man.com (Joshua_Putnam)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: How do you protect a bike from the elements?
Date: 1 Sep 92 19:04:35 GMT
Reply-To: Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com
Organization: Happy Man Corp., Vashon Island, WA 98070-7399

In <1992Aug31.183241.27040@cbnewsm.cb.att.com> madine@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (G. E. Madine, AT&T-BL/AL, cbnewsm.) writes:

>- The following tips are good for even fair weather use.  Grease or Locktite
>(use the blue #242) all threads on all parts of the bicycle.  Especially
>do the water bottle rack and rear rack bolts if they screw into braze-ons.
>This protects the threads from seizing as well as from water.  You can even
>use Locktite 242 on the bottom bracket fixed cup (you shouldn't use grease
>there).  

I'd second all this, but recommend anti-seize compound
instead of grease or locktite for the threads.  It can be
a bit messy, but protects better against saltwater-induced
corrosion than plain grease.

>Operational precautions.  - If it has rained during the day, there sometimes
>will be a build up of (I think to be Al oxide) dirt on the rims.  Wipe
>this off with a paper towel before returning home.  The dirt severly degrades
>brake effectiveness.  Be especially careful to do this if you might encounter
>more rain while cycling home.

Cleaning the rims and brake pads also reduces
braking-surface wear, so your rims will last longer if you
take good care of them.  You'll still wear them out
braking in the rain, but if you clean them after the rain
stops you'll limit the damage.


>- Paint may fade.

If you aren't riding a collector's item, this can be
advantageous -- faded = old = less money when fencing
stolen bike.
-- 
 Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com    Happy Man Corp.  206/463-9399 x102
 4410 SW Pt. Robinson Rd., Vashon Island, WA  98070-7399  fax x108
 We publish SOLID VALUE for the intelligent investor.  NextMail OK
Info free; sample $20: Send POSTAL addr: Solid-Value@happy-man.com
From: alexande@genghis.borland.com (Mark Alexander)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: seating tires
Keywords: tire
Date: 2 Sep 92 19:31:35 GMT
Organization: Borland International
Originator: alexande@genghis.borland.com


Kevlar-bead tires can blow off rims that have perfectly good hooks.

Until recently I rode on a 10-year old Rigida rim that just wouldn't
hold any new Continental or Matrix tires (both steel and Kevlar bead).
I had to replace the rim with an MA-40 to be able to use new tires.

My current theory is that tires and rims have gotten very slightly
larger over the years.  (This replaces my earlier theory, which is
that the hook on the old rim somehow "wore out".)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: jkb@suned1.Nswses.Navy.Mil (John K Bunk)
Organization: NSWSES Code 4g13 - Opinions: Are Mine Alone
Subject: Building a Bike Frame (from scratch)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 10:09:04 -0700
X-Received: by usenet.pa.dec.com; id AA12007; Tue, 1 Sep 92 10:13:06 -0700
X-Received: by inet-gw-1.pa.dec.com; id AA00428; Tue, 1 Sep 92 10:12:20 -0700
X-Received: by suned1.Nswses.Navy.Mil (4.1/Nswses4.1.2_920723eb)id AA27620; Tue, 1 Sep 92 10:09:05 PDT
X-Mailer: Mail User's Shell (7.2.3 5/22/91)
X-To: rec.bicycles.tech.usenet

Hi!

Has anyone ever built their own bicycle frame from scratch?  How much
welding / brazing skills do you need?  Should I just forget about
building my own frame unless I have megadollars equipment (rentals)
and supplies?

In my case, I was considering building my own recumbent bike frame.
I thought building my own bike may be fun, and I would learn much
along the way.

Also, if any books or magazine articles exist on the subject of
frame building, please let me know!

Thanks (in advance), 
John

-- 
                      John Bunk, Code 4G13, NSWC-PHD 
                       jkb@suned1.nswses.navy.mil
    Any statements / opinions made here are mine, alone, not the Navy's.
              But that's OK, the Navy is usually wrong anyhow.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: praetzel@marconi.uwaterloo.ca (Eric Praetzel)
Subject: Re: VO2 max (was Re: Heart Rate Survey: Results)
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 17:30:09 GMT

In article <1992Aug26.151741.17286@colorado.edu> jac@noaacrd.colorado.edu (Julia Collins) writes:
>I humbly suggest that you reconsider your opinion on the trainability
>of the AT.  Improving your AT (or more accurately, lactate threshold)
>will perhaps allow you to stay with all of those people who so casually
>drop you now. It has indeed been shown to be trainable by more than

Oh how I wish that it would.  Alas if I could run at 100% of my max pulse for
a time trial I may be able to keep upto them.  I will have to do some
investigating into the lactate-power or VO2-power curves but from what I
have seem the slope is fixed by the efficiency of metabolic processes,
and mechanical efficiency.  What I want to see is if this slope is
different for different people or if the whole curve just shifts up and
down.  However, as far as I can see the slope is inexorably tied into the
"efficiency" calculations.  Anyway when I get some more data I will explore
that.
  As a little tidbit I have been going over some numbers in the Lactate
Pulse Training book:
  Poor cyclist at AT:  pulse = 95% of max,   power = 57% of max
  Well trained one  :  pulse = 95% of max,   power = 87% of max
  Me at AT          :  pulse = 90% of max,   power = 76% of max
  J Draayer (PDM)   :  pulse = 92% of max,   power = 82% of max

This agrees with some of the material that I have read.  As Harry has pointed
out the pulse at AT can and does decrease with an increase in fitness.  The
above data hints that the pulse at AT is a poor indicator of fitness.  But,
as I have read, in the case of fit people; it is not so much that they are 
much stronger (they are but not _that_ much :-) but that they do tend to run
a lot closer to the maximum.
  Unfortunately this seems to indicate that they raised their power at AT
by pushing the metabolism to avoid glycogen and aneorobic processes.  Sheer
guessing right now but it seems an interesting idea.
  - Eric 
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: jpaulw@cbnewse.cb.att.com (john.p.wrycza)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: TREK Tandem/T200 vs. Cannondale - anybody else
Keywords: $$
Date: 27 Aug 92 22:34:02 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T

>In rec.bicycles.marketplace, snoopy@crchh426.BNR.CA (Antonio Tello) writes:
>I am soliciting comments on the Cannondale tandem,
>does anybody have anything positive or negative to say ?
>
>I have one, and have nothing but positive things to say about it.  It
>is the stiffest tandem I have ridden; though I haven't tried the new
>specialized tandem.
 I have - it was not competitively priced, and not barely available

>The longish rear top-tube either
> o Gives the stoker a lot of room or,
> o Lets you buy a little smaller frame without cramping the stoker
   The TREK we have is a 58/53 (~23/21") - it also has a longer stoker
  seat to handlebar distance - noticeably longer - this seems to be the
  trend of the 'newer' tandems

>It has all the essential braze-ons for full touring, or can be set up
>as a very light, high performance racing tandem.
  I think the T200 weighs in @ ~42lbs

>Do any other tandems of this apparent quality / rigidity
>exist ? (eg Specialized ?)
>>>Not if you want 700c rims.  <<<<<  
 wrongo - the TREK200 has 700C rims,
 but is equipped with Shitmano/Deore-XT parts, plus bar-con shifters

>Does this bike also have a 'creakondale' reputation ?
>Mine doesn't creak at all. 
  The headset creaked on the T200 under severe (35+mph) thrashing
with a couple of 150lb riders on board.

Generally I'm happy with the T200 - however - I've trashed a rear wheel
(40 spoke) - and I've heard that others have had the same problem, but
on my 36 spoke rear cross/mtn wheels I've had no problems - damn machine
built factory wheels!

John Wrycza
AT&T/Bell Labs
Naperville, IL

   o__ o__         o__ o__         o__ o__         o__ o__      
  _.>/-.>/'_      _.>/-.>/'_      _.>/-.>/'_      _.>/-.>/'_    
 ( ) \---\(*)..  ( ) \---\(*)..  ( ) \---\(*)..  ( ) \---\(*).. 
                                                                                                                              
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: karen@athena.mit.edu (Karen E. Walrath)
Subject: Re: Cycling Gives Me A Neck Ache -- Recommenda
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 19:20:21 GMT

In article <l9knknINNfks@jethro.Corp.Sun.COM> tmhoff@oogoody.Corp.Sun.COM writes:
>>**************
>>I repeat--get a recumbent. They're *wonderful*!!!!!
>
>
>OK. But which one? I've tried a lightning and a ryan. Which is
>"better"? What are other good alternatives?
>
I have a recumbent.  Just as you test ride a "normal" bike, you have to test
ride the recumbent.  In fact, since all the recumbents I have seen are very
different in construction/design/seat, this is even more important.  I have
an Infinity recumbent and there are things I like/dislike about it.  One
is that the seat offers no upper back support.  I have tried a Lightning
and really liked the seat, but didn't like how it adjusted for different
sized riders (add chain and pull the "boom" out).  I tried the Ryan and
didn't like the mechanism to hold the center front of the seat up.  Also,
my husband couldn't reach the handle bars.

In fact, handlebars require some consideration, especially for someone
with upper back pain.  Under-the-seat steering is ok if you can reach
the bars fine without slouching or reaching.  The Infinity is sized for
my husband, and not me.  When I ride it for long, I get a pain between
the shoulder blades from reaching forward for the handlebars.  On the
Ryan I didn't notice this because the handlebars were better positioned
for me (but they were too far down for my husband).  

If I were you, I'd try taking the Lightning out for a long ride and see
how you like the upright bars and the seat.  Also, none of these bikes
are cheap, so you do want to make sure you have the right style for your
body proportions.

Karen Walrath
MIT

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech