HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: bsimmons@t4cma-gw.den.mmc.com (Brian Simmons)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Bookcases
Date: 13 Apr 92 16:55:08 GMT
Organization: None, as usual.

On the subject of bookcases, I have a need for about six units of large
bookcases, say 6' by 4' wide. I purchased some retail but they were
made of 1/2" particle board and therefore fell apart after a few months
and one move.

So, I would like some tips on the design of some bookcase I am going
to build to replace them.

Here are some needs:
 (I have not done much woodworking, so don't flame me over these)

1) Sturdy. I have a lot of heavy books and magazines (clay paper is
   heavy!). I also would like them to last a few years with multiple
   moves without having to disassemble them each time. How does 3/4"
   plywood sides, tops, and shelves and 1/4" plywood back sound?

2) How do you design one that doesn't lean forword?

3) Tools/Joints. I have a drill. I live in an apartment. I am poor.
   Therefore what joints to use? I don't think just nailing the thing
   together would last long. It would seem the weight of the wood
   alone would pull them apart.

4) Time. I am working full time and going to school (physics). I have
   no time for classes and stuff (although I would love to take some.
   I am interested to see how much you can do without power tools in
   an apartment).

My apartment manager has nixed those type of shelves that you screw
into the studs, with verticle metal bars and brackets.
--
-     Brian Simmons                       Send Email Here :
-     Martin Marietta Astronautics        bsimmons@t4cma-gw.den.mmc.com
From: kroth@sunshine.Kodak.COM (David Kroth)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: A table saw that I just bought TODAY!
Date: 7 Apr 92 17:10:06 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Eastman Kodak Co., Rochester, NY



All this talk about 110/220/440v and three phase power over
the last few months has got me to thinking...

If I rewired my Sparc 2 for 220v 3-phase power would it reduce
the load on the file server when I startup (boot) my system???


Dave Kroth
kroth@acadia.kodak.com
From: Nick_Janow@mindlink.bc.ca (Nick Janow)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bookcases
Date: 14 Apr 92 07:11:42 GMT
Article-I.D.: mindlink.11417
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada

Brian's suggestion of cleats to support the shelves is good, but I think that
2x2's are overkill.  Think of the forces exerted on the cleats; they are
essentially shearing forces on the fasteners.  I'd use much narrower wood
(half-inch or less) screwed from the inside (shows less).  Actually, I'd
probably use regular moulding for appearance and feel safe loading the shelves
with heavy magazines.  A few 3/4" screws per cleat would be enough.

Of course, if the appearance of 2x2's doesn't bother you, you can be sure that
the cleats won't fail, no matter how many books and magazines you pile on.  :)
--

Nick_Janow@mindlink.bc.ca
Xref: sparky rec.woodworking:3022 misc.consumers.house:6135
From: doshay@ursa.arc.nasa.gov (David Doshay)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Picket Fence
Date: 9 Apr 92 00:52:47 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: NASA-Ames Biocomputation Center

I would strongly recomend wood for the posts if the rest is wood. You can
buy pressure treated Doug Fir that is stained red at Home Depot. You will
need to prime the wood before painting, and be sure to get a primer that
says it it for the kind of wood you are using: e.g. redwood is very acid,
and requires a special primer.

David		doshay@ursa.arc.nasa.gov
From: stevej@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com (Steve Johnson)
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 18:17:57 GMT
Subject: Re: Dust Collector Static?
Organization: Hewlett Packard - Boise, ID
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

I have used a sears blurfl (shop vac) for collecting dust from my planer and
router table. The buildup of static is very real. I often get nasty shocks
because the shavings rub on the plastic hose and charge up the whole tool
attached to the thing. I have no fires or explosions, so I wonder how real 
the hazard is. In theory, dust+electric discharge is bad, but I fail to see
how much worse a dust collector could be than an al plastic shop vac. I would
be interested in hearing any first person accounts of a problem with an
un-grounded system.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: phil@n6batws1.NoSubdomain.NoDomain (Phil McMillan)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: computer table
Keywords: computer table desk
Date: 12 Apr 92 05:23:33 GMT

In article <1992Apr4.150037.10344@noose.ecn.purdue.edu>, adams@stable.ecn.purdue.edu (William H Adams) writes:
|> 
|> Hello,
|> Recently I have purchased a computer system and forsee the future need 
|> to build a desk/table/workstation (whichever term you like) to hold it.
|> Right now I am just planning. What little searching I have done has not
|> turned up much information.  I did find the FWW article July/Auguest '89
|> about building a computer workstation. 
|> 
|> Basicly, I am interested in books, article, and other source of 
|> information on this subject. Any help would be much appriciated.
|> 
|> thanks,
|> will

I *think* FINE WOODWORKING had an article about 2 months ago on
building such a beast!  It was in the same issue as the article
on general use of computers in the workshop.

Phil
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: icsad136@Msu.oscs.montana.edu
Subject: Re: Swedish floor finishes
Reply-To: icsad136@Msu.oscs.montana.edu
Organization: Montana State University
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1992 15:41:13 GMT

In article <26330015@hpcvra.cv.hp.com>, johna@hpcvra.cv.hp.com (John Allen) writes:
>I have Glitsa on my oak floors.  Glossy enough to suit me.  I think a large
>well-clawed dog would be able to scratch it though.
>
	I like these floor finishing questions, because they give
me something (I know about) to shoot my mouth off about. Glitza is
pretty tough stuff. It doesn't bubble when you brush it out, so
it's easy to get a good looking finish. 
	But it is mighty toxic stuff. Even with a good respirator,
I would get "nitric acid" headaches from it, for days. The stuff stinks
so bad, you can't go back to your house for 2-3 days after a re-finish
job. I also read somewhere (did I say really know what I'm talking about?)
that Glitza is a formaldehyde-based product that puts chip-board to shame
as a long-term indoor polution source.
	Which leads to the question of water-based, two-part, catalyzed
floor finishes, which are harder to apply, and not quite as durable
as Glitza--and to the punchline--which is what product to use. My position
is clear: if I bought a house with a Glitza-finished floor, I'd sand it 
off immediately and put down 3-4 coats of water-based stuff (Basic Coatings,
Pacific Strong, etc.). Just thinking about Glitza gives me a headache. Maybe
that's a little extreme, especially if the finish has had a year or two to
cure. But you'd have to be crazy to re-finish with it. I did, once, and the 
smell lingered for months. I got carbon monoxide poisoning once, too from 
an oldd truck with a bad muffler. That was the only time I ever had a 
  headache worse than a Glitza headache. 

Sandy Pittendrigh
From: trocklin@umaxc.weeg.uiowa.edu (Tom Rocklin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Good stores or other WW attractions in SF Bay area (?)
Date: 14 Apr 92 21:32:42 GMT
Article-I.D.: ns-mx.12176
Organization: U of Iowa, Iowa City, IA

I'll be in San Franscisco next week and would appreciate any suggestions
of good stores or other wood working attractions to visit.  I suppose
I might get over to Oakland and/or Berkeley for half a day, so east bay
suggestions are also welcome.

Thanks.

(I spent 3 years at UC Berkeley, but before I was interested in woodworking,
so I'm clueless).
--
Tom Rocklin                                  374 Lindquist Center
319/335-5570                              The University of Iowa
319/335-5386 (fax)                           Iowa City, IA 52242
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: news@walter.bellcore.com
Subject: What about Built-in Bookcases
Reply-To: marc@bellcore.com (Marc F Pucci)
Organization: Bellcore, Morristown, NJ
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 92 19:13:29 GMT

I have a related problem with bookcases - I want to finish a wall
as a bookcase, permanently.  It needs to look good (must pass the
Wife Acceptance Factor).  This I can deal with ;-).

I don't really want to build a series of independent pieces and tie
them together.  I want the wall (about 10 ft long) to be one large
bookcase.  The problem I'm worried about is if I have a common vertical
piece between two compartments, the dados let into the piece will
leave too little material for comfort.  I.e.:

      |      |
      |vert. |
      |piece |
---------  ---------
 shelf  |  |  shelf
        |* |               * Is this too thin?
---------  ---------
      |      |
      |      |
      |      |

I've thought about using 5/4 lumber, but this isn't always available
around here.  Also, I don't think staggering the shelves will look
good.  What about the back of the cases?  Can I get away with using
the wall behind it, since these will be attached there?

Marc Pucci
marc@bellcore.com


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: brown@venus.iucf.indiana.edu (Robert J. Brown)
Subject: Re: Woodworking books/mags  (was Re: Want to get started in woodworking...)
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.3-4   
Reply-To: brown@venus.iucf.indiana.edu
Organization: IUCF
Distribution: na
Date: 16 APR 92 10:09:34    

In article <1992Apr15.184111.3398@adobe.com>, bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds) writes...
>Ronnie B. Kon writes
>> You will need reading material:
>>....... 
>> 
>> 3)  Tage Frid's woodworking books, volumes 1 and 2.  Don't get volume 
>> 	3 (Furnituremaking).  It discusses how to go about designing 
>> 	furniture.
> 
>Frid's third volume mostly contains over a dozen projects of varying  
>complexity. It does have a single chapter on furniture design, and Frid  
>discusses some of his designing process in describing the projects.
> 
>But, I really have to voice displeasure with advice that tells one to avoid  
>books on designing furniture......

  I have to agree here - I can think of no subjetct where it's history
isn't included as a prelude to the study of the subject itself. Whether 
it be nuclear physics or ceramics, [Mr. Leeds' anology (deleted here) of
art being a wonderful example although not expanded upon in the "history"
sense.] the history of a subjects creators, contributors and it's basic
evolution is very important in the path to knowledge and understanding.
In learning how to make furniture and the use of the tools and tech-
nology needed to do so, the knowledge of why something is done in a particular
way can be very enlightening and lead to a greater understanding, and a
greater appreciation of the craft. 

   ____________________________________________________________
  /\                                                           \____
 /\\\  Robert J. Brown                       Bitnet:BROWN@IUCF  \   \
 \\\\\   Indiana University                     _____________    \   \
  \\\\\____  Cyclotron Facility                 \           /\    \   \
   \\\/   /\    Phone: (812)855-9365             \_________/\\\    \   \
    \/___/\\\_____________________________________\ enjoy  \\\\\____\   \
         \\\/               ____                  /   your  \\\/    /____\
          \/________________\ \/_________________/     shop  \/__________/


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,misc.consumers.house
From: kathys@jpl-devvax.jpl.nasa.gov (Kathy Sturdevant)
Subject: Picket Fence
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory (NASA)
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1992 19:39:33 GMT


Topic:  Picket Fence

I need to put in a picket fence and I'd like to solicit opinions on
what to use for posts.  I'd prefer wood, but I was wondering about
the durability of using the metal posts (like the ones used for chain
link fences).  The fence will be for the front yard, so I want it to look 
nice.  The neighborhood is so-so, so it doesn't have to be fantastic. I was 
thinking of using all cedar and painting it.  (My neighbor wants all chain-
link and I am trying to avoid this.)

My questions are:
	1.  If I use the wood posts, is there something I can treat
	them with to help prevent termite/weather destruction?
	How long can I expect them to last?
	2.  If I use metal posts, will paint stick well to them?  I'd like
	them to "blend in"?  
	3.  The salesman at Dunn Edwards recommended the water-base paint
	because it wouldn't fade and came in semi-gloss.  He said the
	oil-based may crack and discolor in the sun.  The water-base had
	the potential to peel though.  What results have you had?  Will
	either work well on the metal posts (if I go that way)?

Thanks!
kathy sturdevant

Pasadena, CA
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,misc.consumers.house
From: laforce@xenon.arc.nasa.gov (Soren LaForce)
Subject: Re: Picket Fence
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.3-4   
Reply-To: laforce@xenon.arc.nasa.gov
Organization: NASA-Ames Research Center
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1992 17:46:42 GMT

In article <1992Apr8.193933.27991@jpl-devvax.jpl.nasa.gov>, kathys@jpl-devvax.jpl.nasa.gov (Kathy Sturdevant) writes...
> 
>Topic:  Picket Fence
> 
>I need to put in a picket fence and I'd like to solicit opinions on
>what to use for posts.  I'd prefer wood, but I was wondering about
>the durability of using the metal posts (like the ones used for chain
>link fences).  The fence will be for the front yard, so I want it to look 
>nice.  The neighborhood is so-so, so it doesn't have to be fantastic. I was 
>thinking of using all cedar and painting it.  (My neighbor wants all chain-
>link and I am trying to avoid this.)
> 
>My questions are:
>	1.  If I use the wood posts, is there something I can treat
>	them with to help prevent termite/weather destruction?
>	How long can I expect them to last?

Use either pressure treated douglas fir or redwood.  The opinion I heard
most frequently when I was a (novice) carpenter was that the strength 
of the pressure treated was reduced to just about that of redwood.  
Redwood is probably more rot resistant and definately is not chemically
treated, if that is a concern.

To minimize the rot, a hole should be dug deeper than the submerged depth
of the post and filled with course gravel to the bottom of the post.  This
allow water that runs down the post to drain away from the end grain at 
the bottom of the post.  For a low (say 3') you could probably just fill
with dirt around the post.  If it is going to have to support any 
significant weight, concrete would be better.  I believe there is a post
concrete that you do not mix with water, just tamp around the post and it
set from the water in the ground, or time and air.  Check on the last part
since my memory is a little fuzzy.

Never set the end of a wood post in the center of a concrete plug as the
water will accumulate at the end.

>	2.  If I use metal posts, will paint stick well to them?  I'd like
>	them to "blend in"?  
>	3.  The salesman at Dunn Edwards recommended the water-base paint
>	because it wouldn't fade and came in semi-gloss.  He said the
>	oil-based may crack and discolor in the sun.  The water-base had
>	the potential to peel though.  What results have you had?  Will
>	either work well on the metal posts (if I go that way)?

I really have no idea about this, BUT, I have never heard of a CAR being
painted with water based paint!

If I were painting metal posts, I would sand them with medium, say 120
grit, sandpaper, clean them with acetone (safe to spill on the ground, 
unlike some other organic solvents), prime them, and them paint with an 
oil based enamel.

Water based paint does put less crap in the air.  This may affect your
decision.  I also thought that some oil based paints were getting hard
to buy in california (?).

I'd go with wood just 'cause I like it better!


--Soren            laforce@xenon.arc.nasa.gov

> 
>Thanks!
>kathy sturdevant
> 
>Pasadena, CA
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: dsr@chickpea.mitre.org (Douglas S. Rand)
Subject: Re: Grizzly Table Saw
Organization: The MITRE Corporation
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1992 18:19:59 GMT

In article <kur47cINNkto@utkcs2.cs.utk.edu> flanery@cs.utk.edu (Ray Flanery) writes:

This should be in the FAQ.  It is?

   I have two questions to ask the net:

   1) Has anyone bought the contractor style table saw from grizzly?
      It sounds like a good saw (although I really like the sounds
      of the cabinet saw!) and I figure for the price, I could afford
      to get a good after-market fence and a few other goodies to
      make cutting wood more pleasant.

Yes.  I've bought it.  You don't particularly need an aftermarket
fence.  The fence that comes with it is acceptable.  I've had the
Grizzly saw for a year now and it has held up very well under moderate
usage.

   2) How does this saw compare to say the Delta or other contractor
      style table saws?

It is essentially a duplicate of the Delta contractor saw.  Nice heavy
motor and the same cheap mitre gauge.  Nicer table inserts with a
dado/moulding cutter insert included.

I'd say the down side is that Grizzly's QA is not up to Delta's
standards.  You must also allow for around $70 in shipping charges.
That brings the price to around $420 depending on your geographic
location to Grizzly.  

You might want to consider the Ryobi (about $520 or so) or the Delta
(about $570 on sale) as alternatives.




--
Douglas S. Rand 
Internet:   <dsrand@mitre.org>
Snail:	    MITRE, Burlington Road, Bedford, MA 
Disclaimer: MITRE might agree with me - then again...
Amateur Radio: KC1KJ
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mckim@sdd.hp.com (Jim McKim)
Subject: Re: Sharpening Plane Irons
Keywords: plane iron, sharpening
Organization: Hewlett Packard, San Diego Division
Date: Tue, 07 Apr 1992 22:07:56 GMT

****** At last - a discussion involving hand tools!! What a relief! *****

In article <4594@atlas.cs.nps.navy.mil> erickson@taurus.cs.nps.navy.mil (David Erickson) writes:
>In article <1992Apr7.165355.20134@crl.dec.com> wojcik@crl.dec.com writes:
>>In article <19286@sybase.sybase.com>, hsc@stroid.sybase.com (Howard Cohen) writes:
>>> That is, the corners are a bit curved.  This is not a huge affect, but it is
>>> noticable.  
>
>>An instructor in handtool woodworking I once had taught me to knock the corners off
>>the plane blades with a couple of swipes on the fine stone once sharpening was done.
>
>I've heard the same, and generally sharpen my block planes as described.
>Jack, fore and jointer planes get progressively more curvature - i.e. a
>jointer plane should have a curved cutting edge, with the center of the
>blade about 1/16" - 1/8" ahead of the sides.
>

****** At last - a discussion involving hand tools!! What a relief! *****

I have read about knocking the corners off to avoid leaving lines, and do
that myself, but I have never heard about progressive curvature with
increasing plane length before. I can't figure out the functional 
relationship here - seems opposite of what I would have thought. I have
heard about having a jack plane especially for roughing work with a
curved edge, about the amount you describe for the jointer. But I would
think you would need to have the jointer blade straight across to be
able to get a nice square edge on a board. The curved blade would scoop
out a hollow if it was centered on the board, or put on a rounded bevel
if it's not, won't it?

Inquiring minds want to know more...

BTW, anyone know *why* the curved blade works better for roughing? Does
it somehow allow you to remove material faster without gouging in (tearout)
at the expense of leaving a slightly wavy surface? If so, how?

--
Jim McKim
Hewlett-Packard Co., San Diego Technical Graphics Division
Internet : mckim@sdd.hp.com 

Why does the sawdust seem to accumulate a lot faster than my finished
projects?
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: sreid@bcarh561.BNR.CA (Stuart Reid)
Subject: Re: Want to get started in woodworking
Keywords: woodworking, workshop
Reply-To: sreid@bcarh561.BNR.CA (Stuart Reid)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1992 17:57:24 GMT

As stated before, everybody goes into woodworking
for different reasons.  The approach that one
takes depends on one's goals.
 
Having started serious woodworking less then 2 years
ago, my appoach was to read as much as I could on
the subject.  This meant many trips to the library
to take out woodworking books and magazines plus
purchasing more of the same. (I've found
Woodsmith and Fine Woodworking to be excellent
sources of information.)  All this reading
lets you know what is possible, gives you
ideas as to what to build and gets you
started on the many "tricks of the trade".
 
While I admire anybody who works strickly with hand tools,
the best purchase that I made was a middle of the line
Delta table saw.  Without the ability to accurately
cut wood, further fine work is impossible.
I estimate that I have invested $1500 ($cdn) in tools,
half of which was for the table saw.  I buy a tool
when I cannot figure out any other reasonable way
to accomplish a task. (i.e., don't buy clamps,
make them, etc.)
 
I can understand why anybody watching The New Yankee
Workshop would get turned off by the obviuosly huge
investment Norm (Mr. Power Tool) has in his tools.
However for the vast majority of the tasks which
Norm performs there are many other ways to do the
same thing with other tools, many of which are
hand tools.  This is where all the reading becomes
indispensable as it teaches one the techniques.
You then must be willing to spend time in your
shop practicing.
 
Stuart Reid.
Ottawa.
From: stuart@rennet.cs.wisc.edu (Stuart Friedberg)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Particle board fumes
Date: 8 Apr 92 00:33:48 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: University of Wisconsin, Madison -- Computer Sciences Dept.


I tried to reply by mail, but the return address was unknown.

In article <1992Apr5.103939.2662@polari.com> nickn@polari.com writes:
>Does anyone know if there are plywoods and other composite boards which 
>do not use this sort of glue? Is it a possible health menace as described?

Yes, use HUD-approved board and laminates.  (HUD = U.S. Department of
Housing and Urban Development)  It's a day to day problem primarily
where the particle board and urea-formalehyde resins are exposed to the
living areas.  Inside the walls, or as sheathing, it's not so much a
health problem from day to day, but the toxic fumes can be released
during fires.  The HUD standards are pretty strict and must be followed
for all Federally-funded housing construction.

If this is a concern, you will have to contact a professional
supplier for info on what's available in your area.  The local
do-it-yourself retail lumber yard is not likely to either carry
HUD-approved materials, or understand what you are talking about,
unless a local building code requires similar materials for all
residential construction.

Stu Friedberg  (stuart@cs.wisc.edu)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking