HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: mja@philabs.philips.com (Michael Amato)
Subject: Re: Questions on Cabinets from Home Depot,Bldrs Square, etc.
Originator: mja@hercules
Reply-To: mja@philabs.philips.com (Michael Amato)
Organization: Philips Laboratories, Briarcliff, NY 10510
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 22:05:45 GMT


In article <1dojgrINNfb6@eagle.natinst.com>, darrenl@natinst.com (Darren Lilie) writes:
|> I'm going to be replacing the cabinets and countertop in my kitchen and was
|> thinking of going to Home Depot and Bldrs Square to give them measurements
|> of the kitchen so they can put it on their computer.  There is a couple of
|> things I wanted to know first before talking with them.

I would not buy kitchen cabinets from these types of places. I don't know
specifically about Home Depot or Bldrs Sqr but most of the DIY all purpose
home/garden/lumber centers/stores around here have very low grade stuff.
The front frames are usually staples to partical board boxes with partical
board shelves. The hinges are also low grade. Thats why they are so cheap.
I would go to a place that specializes in kitchens and/or building materials
only (or close to it). Find out where the local builders buy from. This does not
mean you have to spend a fortune either. I found most of the lower grade cabinets
available at these more upscale places to be far superior to anything the
multi-purpose places had to offer - and at nearly the same cost. Stay away
from the custom kitchen product lines unless money is no object.

|> 
|> I've seen estimated prices for the different kitchens that they have set up,
|> the cheapest being around $1100. This sign also says does not include
|> countertop,sink, or appliances.  I'm assuming this doesnt include labor either.
|> Is that correct? Do these cabinets come disassembled?  If labor isn't included
|> how much do they charge(per hour or per linear foot)?

Cabinets come assembled, just not installed.

|> 
|> Also, I wanted a blue countertop and it looks like they dont carry that color
|> in their store so it would have to be ordered.  What is an approximate price
|> for this.(The countertop would be L shaped with each leg being about 10ft long).
|> 
|> I would appreciate any info anyone has so I can get an idea of how much it will
|> cost before sitting down with the salesperson.
|> 
|> Thanks,
|> Darren
|> 
|> P.S. Oh yeah, the countertop would be the laminated kind like they have in 
|> their store.
|> 
|>  

One piece molded? That runs a little more then self edged laminate.
Could you be more specific?

-- 
+-----------------------------------------------------------------+
| Michael Amato  DoD#0639 | "If pro is the opposite of con,       |
| mja@philabs.philips.com | then what is Congress"? - Will Rogers |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: richman@reepicheep.gcn.uoknor.edu (Mike Richman)
Subject: Re: Removing oak floor stain
Originator: usenet@midway.ecn.uoknor.edu
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 16:44:12 GMT
Reply-To: richman@reepicheep.gcn.uoknor.edu (Mike Richman)
Organization: Engineering Computer Network, University of Oklahoma, Norman, OK, USA

In article <supervisor.26@utkvx.utk.edu>, supervisor@utkvx.utk.edu writes:
|> The other day, late at night, I decided to replace the kitty litter in the 
|> litter box.  Not wanting to run the old litter out to the outside trash can 
|> at the time, I poured it into a handy cardboard box, covered it, and set it 
|> outside the bathroom for disposal later.  Unfortunately, when I moved the 
|> box to take it out to the trash, a dark, square stain was left in the oak 
|> floor.  I such a stain removable?  Or did I, as a fairly new home onwner, 
|> just get an expensive lession in the care of oak flooring?  Any suggestions 
|> would be appreciated.
|> 
|> John


   ----- Transcript of session follows -----
While talking to UTKVX2.UTK.EDU:
>>> RCPT To:<supervisor@UTKVX.UTCC.UTK.EDU>
<<< 553 unknown or illegal user: supervisor@utkvx.utk.edu
550 supervisor@utkvx.utk.edu... User unknown
-------------

We had an acrylic impregnated oak floor in our last place.  I once
stained that dark with spilled iron powder and took some 0000 steel
wool and rubbed with the direction of the grain to get it right out.
If your floor is acrylic covered or waxed, that process should work,
but, you will have to rewax or touch up the acrylic afterwards.
If it's got a polyurethane finish (unlikely or it should not have
stained), all of the above advice should be ignored.
-- 
   __o   Mike Richman                        !CIMMS/The University of Oklahoma
 _`\<,_  richman@reepicheep.gcn.uoknor.edu   !100 East Boyd, Room 1110
(*)/ (*) 405-325-3460 (office) 325-7614 (fax)!Norman, OK  73019-0628  USA
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: sbrenner@cbnewsb.cb.att.com (scott.d.brenner)
Subject: Interior Painting:  Rolling vs. Spraying
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 15:22:48 GMT

I'm about to embark on a painting journey.  The interior of my house
needs to be painted.  I had a professional do it several years ago,
but I would rather save the money and do it myself this time.  I got
to thinking that perhaps one of those Wagner (or other brand) spraying
systems might be better than rolling in terms of speed, uniformity,
cleanup, and ease of use.

I'm interested in hearing the pro's and con's of both rolling and
spraying.  I'm also interested in finding out how much one of these
spraying systems will cost me and if it's worth it.  I'm willing to
make the investment if a sprayer will make the job easier and "more
professional."

What are your thoughts?

a T d H v A a N n K c S e

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Scott D. Brenner
AT&T Consumer Communications Services
Basking Ridge, NJ
sbrenner@attmail.com
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: was@col.hp.com (Bill Stubblebine)
Subject: Re: Programmable thermostats
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 21:39:41 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division

In article <1992Nov5.150415.1284@philabs.philips.com> Michael Amato writes:

> I was following the thread on this a few weeks ago, and I have a related
> question: Is there a system available that will slave remote zones (I have
> an oil fired HW baseboard system with 4 zones) with one master programmer,
> allowing each loop to have its own temperature cycling program? Would this be
> cheaper than 4 independent programmable thermostats?

I have a need similar to yours, except that I have gas-fired HW baseboard
with three zones.  I assume your system is controlled by three-wire zone
valves, each of which is actuated by an independent thermostat.

I've noticed that none of the popular $30-$50 programmable thermostats sold
in do-it-yourself stores is compatible with three-wire zone valves.
Honeywell makes a programmable thermostat that is compatible with
three-wire zone valve systems, but it sells at a considerable ($15-$20)
premium over their regular models, and none of the stores seems to carry it
in stock.

It occurred to me that it should be pretty simple to mimic a three-wire
controller with a common single-ended thermostat using an external relay
thus:

                                         o____________ valve open

                           simple        ----o________ common
                           programmable   
                           thermostat    o____________ valve closed
        ________     _________ \_________
                )|||(                    )||
         110vac )|||( 24v or             )||
                )|||( whatever           )|| relay
        ________)|||(______/\/\/\/\______)||

                         limit resistor
                         (to mimic the resistance
                          of the normal controlled
                          device, e.g., gas valve,
                          etc.)

It seems to me that if the open-circuit voltage and closed-circuit current
seen by the thermostat mimic those of the application the thermostat was
designed for, then the thermostat's heat anticipator and other functions
should all work normally.

Anyone ever tried this?

					Bill Stubblebine
					(719) 590-5568
					was@col.hp.com
-- 

					Bill Stubblebine
					x5568
					upper C, pillar 11C
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: dedek@meaddata.com (Mike Dedek)
Subject: RE: kirby vacuums
Organization: Mead Data Central, Dayton OH
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 17:57:06 GMT
Distribution: usa

In article <1992Nov12.203601.28537@esseye.si.com>, scholten@esseye.si.com (David Scholten) writes:
|> 
|> From article <1992Nov9.221533.8004@opencon.com>, by giand@opencon.com (Deepak S. Gianchandani):
|> > In article <1984@ncrsmg.DaytonOH.NCR.COM> jcoates@ncrsmg.DaytonOH.NCR.COM (Jim D Coates) writes:
|> >>In article <199211030335.AA00480@tuna.wang.com> MANOJ.MUNJAL@OFFICE.WANG.COM
|> >>("Manoj Munjal") writes:
|> >>>Does any one has experience in using Kerby Vacuum Cleaners?
|> >>>It does a good job but is it worth the price they ask for?
|> >>>The salesman I am dealing with for Kerby Vacuum cleaner is asking
|> >>>for $1275.  How low they go?
|> >>>Are they comparable to Rainbow vacuum?
|> >>>
|> >>>Thanks for the information.
|> >>>
|> >>>Manoj Munjal
|> >>
|> 
<some stuff deleted>
|> 
|> We made the mistake of letting one of the salesmen into our house for a
|> demo.  There is no doubt that they do a LOT better job than any other
|> vacuum I can buy at any discount store.  However, their initial price
|> to me was 1395.00.  I played some games with the salesman, of which he
|> ALWAYS had to call his supervisor about.  All in all, after he had left
|> (took 3 hours to do this demo, supposed to be < 1hr), his supervisor
|> called me a second time.  "We really know you want to own one.  My salesman
|> was so disappointed that you can't really afford one at this time.  And
|> he really needs you to buy one so he can win his free trip to Hawaii..."
|> "So I'm willing to offer it to you, today only, for 895.00."  I found
|> this really amusing.  A 500.00 drop in a matter of 4 hours.
|> 
|> Needless to say, I didn't buy.  But when my current sucker dies. I might
|> just consider them.
|> 
|> Dave Scholten

I did a 2-week stint as a kirby salesman back in 1982.  The initial price
at that time was $750.  Yes, I _always_ had to call my manager for any
bargaining.  We did a trade-in deal, which was basically bs (we threw out
the old ones, it was just an excuse to lower the price).  My commission was
$200, and I think the manager made about $300.  So the manager was paying
1/3 the asking price at that time.  So I'd say if you can get them down to
$700, you'd be doing real good (figuring at 1/3, the manager pays 1/3 * 1395
= $466 for the unit).  $895 is probably not a bad price for it.
Be aware that the salesfolks can always reduce the price by the amount of
their commission.  Of course you can't expect them to make nothing on the
sale.

As far as quality goes, I'd agree that Kirby is the best.  My mom still has
her 30-yr. old kirby and it works fine.  She's had the bag replaced and the
belt replaced a few times.  The price is high, but unless their
manufacturing has changed dramatically in the past 10 years you might never
need another vacuum cleaner.

-Mike "not cut out to be a salesman" Dedek

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: marsan@marsan.comm.mot.com (Mark Marsan)
Subject: Re:GE microwaves
Reply-To: marsan@marsan.comm.mot.com (Mark Marsan)
Organization: Land Mobile Products Sector, Motorola, Inc.
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 19:09:53 GMT
Keywords: GE products

In article <1992Nov4.231103.16109@tamsun.tamu.edu>, theresa@math.tamu.edu (Theresa Caillouet) writes:
|> <Stuff deleted>
|>I'm going to write GE again - telling them I'm suggesting to people not
|>to buy GE products.
|>
A previous thread trashed Sears products - I guess it is time to trash
GE products and repair services!  I had a GE refrigerator serviced this summer
by an independent repairman whose diagnosis was a dead compressor. 
He advised me to contact the GE repair department as it should be under warranty.
His opinion, and experience, was that GE had installed an inferior compressor in
their refrigerators in the late 80's and many are failing now. I contacted GE 
and, of course, found out that the warranty had expired two months earlier (now 
I know why my electric bills had been so high the previous six months). 

Since the repair would cost about $200 and the refrigerator was only 5 years old 
I decided to go ahead with repair. Unfortunately, the refrig. only worked for a 
couple days before the temperature inside started to increase (with compressor 
continously running). For the next several weeks our schedule was as follows:
1. Throw food out in refrig.
2. Call GE service
3. Repairman comes out, blames previous repairman for incompetance, repairs 
   small freon leak.
4. Temperature inside refrig. drops to normal but starts increasing next day.
5. Goto step 1.

After 3 times around the loop I finally had a working refigerator. Ge claimed 
they would reimburse me for the food which I lost after the new compressor
was installed, but they never responded to my letter. 
(GE also sent me a $100 "gift" certificate for my next GE purchase with the 
initial service call - I laughed and threw it away).
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: smb@ulysses.att.com (Steven Bellovin)
Subject: Re: Gas logs in your fireplace
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 16:57:15 GMT
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories

In article <5523@gold.gvg.tek.com>, stevem@gold.gvg.tek.com (Steve Miller) writes:
> In article <FAUNT.92Nov6113544@dustbin.cisco.com> faunt@dustbin.cisco.com (Doug Faunt N6TQS 415-688-8269) writes:
> >A question I've had for a while:
> >Why are gas pipes requires to be black iron?  Why not galvanized?
> 
> To distinguish it from pipes that are not carrying gas.
> 
> "We'll just cut this here water pipe with my blow torch, and add that extra
> circuit."  Oopps, KABLEWY.

Years ago, my father wanted to replace a wall-mounted lamp in his mother's
house.  So, after cutting power, he unscrewed the nut holding the lamp
to the nipple.  Only it wasn't a standard electrical nipple, it was the
cap on the gas line that used to supply the wall-mounted gas lamp in that
spot....  Yes, they scrambled fast to get that cap back on.
From: scottb@vcd.hp.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: HELP: My refer. won't refe!
Date: 12 Nov 92 23:01:50 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard VCD
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1.3 PL5

I have an eight year old refridgerator/freezer (bottom freezer) that is not on
its best behavior.  A while back, the refer. compartment was not staying cold.
The freezer, however, was just fine.  I pulled the rear panel off of the 
freezer compartment exposing the coils.  The coils were caked with ice, which
explains the refer. unit not getting cold (the cold freezer air is piped into
the refer. compartment via a duct running along the back of the unit) since
the duct was effectively blocked.  So I defrosted the freezer, but it just
frosted up in a week or two.  Again, I defrost.  Again, the coils are iced.

Is there something else I should be doing or looking at (like a new unit!)?

Any input may help this block of insulation from becoming a ????
So, how many ways can you think of to use a dead ref/freezer?

Thanx

--
Scott Bigelow
Hewlett-Packard Co.
Vancouver, WA
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: supervisor@utkvx.utk.edu
Subject: Removing oak floor stain
Organization: U.T. Computer Center
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 22:40:49 GMT

The other day, late at night, I decided to replace the kitty litter in the 
litter box.  Not wanting to run the old litter out to the outside trash can 
at the time, I poured it into a handy cardboard box, covered it, and set it 
outside the bathroom for disposal later.  Unfortunately, when I moved the 
box to take it out to the trash, a dark, square stain was left in the oak 
floor.  I such a stain removable?  Or did I, as a fairly new home onwner, 
just get an expensive lession in the care of oak flooring?  Any suggestions 
would be appreciated.

John
From: fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com (Fred Christiansen)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Questions on Cabinets from Home Depot,Bldrs Square, etc.
Date: 12 Nov 92 17:59:37 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Motorola Computer Group, RT Software

In article <1dojgrINNfb6@eagle.natinst.com>, darrenl@natinst.com (Darren
Lilie) wrote:
> I would appreciate any info anyone has so I can get an idea of how much it will
> cost before sitting down with the salesperson.

While looking for cabinets, I got about a dozen or more quotes.
I tried all the home improvement stores (Home Depot, et al), numerous
kitchen & bath distributors/reps, and several local manufacturers (OakCraft,
MasterCraft, Stradlings).  Quotes I got back spec'd Merrillat, KraftMaid,
KraftLine, American Woodmark, Mill's Pride, Kitchen Kompact, the 3 locals I
already mentioned, and a couple of others.  Except for Mills Pride (lower $,
quality maybe the same), they were all about the same price for same quality.

For the price quoted, reps and manufacturers will measure, design, and advise.
The HI stores ask you to measure, but they'll do the rest too.  The reps
and manufacturers would install for about $20/unit (avg).  The HI stores
can arrange for installation, too, at competitive prices.

For countertops, it's the same story.  The HI stores can do just as much
as the kitchen & bath places, you just have the opportunity to save $$
by doing more yourself (you pay if you need more services).  On special
orders, the HI stores need more lead time than the kitchen & bath (in
my experience).
-- 
Fred Christiansen, Motorola, 2900 S Diablo Way, Tempe, AZ 85282  "Canajun, eh?"
fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com  ||  uunet!phx.mcd.mot.com!fredch  ||  +1 602-438-3464
  ".. I have set before you Life and Death, blessing and cursing;  therefore
      choose Life, that both you and your children may live"  Deut 30:19
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (patterson,george r)
Subject: Re: Questions on Cabinets from Home Depot,Bldrs Square, etc.
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 92 16:41:31 GMT

In article <1dojgrINNfb6@eagle.natinst.com> darrenl@natinst.com (Darren Lilie) writes:

>I've seen estimated prices for the different kitchens that they have set up,
>the cheapest being around $1100. This sign also says does not include
>countertop,sink, or appliances.  I'm assuming this doesnt include labor either.
>Is that correct? Do these cabinets come disassembled?  If labor isn't included
>how much do they charge(per hour or per linear foot)?

Don't know about the labor. Since the lowest price Home Depot cabinets
would cost around $600 for a small kitchen, I would bet labor is included.
Their cabinets come preassembled, so they are quite bulky. If you're picking
them up, count on two trips with a typical small pickup; maybe one with a
full size pickup.

>Also, I wanted a blue countertop and it looks like they dont carry that color
>in their store so it would have to be ordered.  What is an approximate price
>for this.(The countertop would be L shaped with each leg being about 10ft long).
>
>I would appreciate any info anyone has so I can get an idea of how much it will
>cost before sitting down with the salesperson.

At Home Depot, that comes in two pieces, each of which is about $45, if
I remember correctly. These then have to be cut to fit your application,
and the ends finished with a kit that costs a few dollars more.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | If it were not possible to allow a little energetic
George Patterson -  | discussion between opposing factions, there would
                    | be no market for tire irons or band-aids.
                    |                             Sam Venable
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: mtw8527@bcstec.ca.boeing.com (Mike Wallach)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Building A Home
Date: 7 Nov 92 19:37:58 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Boeing Computer Services, Seattle

With all the discussions about buying a house, real estate agents,
etc. I was wondering if anyone could provide some information about
what is involved in buying land and building on it.  For instance
land loans, hiring/interviewing builders, costs, things to look out
for, etc. Thanks.

				Mike Wallach
				mtw8527@eeidf002.ca.boeing.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: "Dan Corpron" <wk01158@worldlink.com>
Subject: RE Lawyers & Inspectors in OR
Organization: Timberline Software
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1992 00:02:22 GMT
X-Mailer: WORLDLink (3.11)

Sorry for the wide distribution of this note, but I can't restrict
it from this WorldLink account.

I'm in the market for a house (I may purchase an existing one or
build one).  Does anyone have any recommendations for me for a
real estate lawyer and/or a house inspector in the Portland, OR
area?  Thanks!

Dan Corpron
wk01158@worldlink.com

From: hmoss@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Howard Moss)
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 17:00:16 GMT
Subject: Toilet leak...
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Rosa, CA
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house

Hi,
  I have a toilet that leaks CLEAN water onto the floor after flushing.
  The water collects in front and definitely is clean so I assume there
  is a crack in the toilet along the path the water takes going from
  the tank to the bowl. Is this repairable? Is there a simple sealer
  that can stop the leak? Also, what is the average price of a new
  toilet these days (ie. is the ROI on repairing worth the price of
  a new, more efficient toilet)? 
  I know that I'll have do some work with the toilet... Is it really
  as easy at it looks?: 
  -empty out water completely
  -disconnect water line
  -disconnect tank from bowl
  -unscrew bolts holding bowl to floor
  -rock side-to-side to release wax seal and lift straight up
  -scrape off old seal
  -do repair work
  -attach new seal
  -seat toilet onto sewer flange
  -tighten bolts and re-attach associated hardware
  -done! 
Thanks for any advice!!

Howard Moss
hmoss@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com
707-577-3984 (CA)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: FYI: This Old Pyramid
From: erkamp@JANUS.ARC.AB.CA (Bob Erkamp)
Date: 6 Nov 92 13:40:14 MDT
Reply-To: erkamp@JANUS.ARC.AB.CA
Organization: Alberta Research Council

In article <1992Nov5.175711.11754@informix.com>, davek@informix.com (David Kosenko) writes:
>Keith Pilotti writes:
>>"This Old Pyramid" is the title of the upcoming episode of Nova on PBS.
>>
>>It is about an
>>archeologist and a stone mason who go to Egypt to reconstruct an actual
>>pyramid in order to learn how it works.
>
>And the American mastor mason is the guy that This Old House uses for
>their projects!  During the Kirkside project, he had pictures with him
>that he had taken in Egypt during the filming. They would have invited
>Norm, but no power tools were allowed ;-)
>

This was a rather entertaining show as the mason often got pretty steamed 
putting up with the 'experts' as they tried different methods to construct
their pyramid.

Bob
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house