HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: mwerling@snoopy.umd.edu (Michael T. Werling)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Compound internal filter
Keywords: Moe Larry Curly
Date: 31 Aug 92 15:16:55 GMT

I have been reading a copy of Martin Moe's _Marine Aquarium Reference, Systems
 and Invertebrates_ and saw his design for a "compound internal filter" 
(page 318 for those of you with your copies in front of you).  Has anyone
tried this type of thing?  It looks interesting, and inexpensive, and a little
more reasonable for my 29g marine (well someday marine) aquarium.  Please
let me know if you have experimented with this design, and any suggestions
would be appereciated.


Thanks!

Mike - Ever searching for high efficency at a low price...


--------------------------------10110-------------------------------
| Mike Werling, Student Assistant |  email:mwerling@umd5.umd.edu   |
| AT&T Teaching Theater		  |  phone: (301)403-4620          |
| Computer Science Center         |--------------------------------|
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------------------------My opinions are my own!---------------------
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: bednarek@picard.med.ge.com (Dennis Bednarek Mfg 4-6971)
Subject: Re: [F] Setup for plants and fish
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 92 05:33:13 GMT

Let's get back to the removal of those nasty and costly under gravel filters.
If the tank was set up for any lenght of time there is usually a lot of "crap"
throughout the gravel.  Whenever I clean my tanks I remove all the gravel 
(I use a combination of medium grit red flint and black beauty mixed in a 1 
part black beauty to 2 or 3 parts red flint) and clean it.  The process I use 
for cleaning is to fill a pail 1/3 full with the old gravel and thsn stick a
garden hose in it, untill the overflow of water is crystal clear.  Yes that
does require removal of the fish but I have found it is no problem overcrowding
a second tank for a day or two.

I really would like to know who invented those ug filters, and why so many
aquatic stores push them on the novices.  Frrom what I here they may be alright 
for the salt buff but they sure are a waste for us fresh water fanatics.

--

  
###############################################################################
###NEVER - NEVERMORE###########################################################
###############################################################################
####################################What are the contents of the oblong box?##
###############################################################################
  The usual disclaimer of self and employer applies to all above comments.
#
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel)
Subject: Re: What about Ammonia-Rid Bags (was Re: Activated Carbon
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 16:49:32 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division

In article <1992Sep04.134541.17252@bmerh85.bnr.ca> lenny@x400gate.bnr.ca writes:
>Can we generalize this thread a bit?  When I first set up my tank I had
>ammonia problems which the sales slime said could be solved by adding
>an ammonia-rid product to my filter inserts (so, two years later I still
>have the sponge below a carbon bag below an ammonia-rid bag - the latter
>two are alternatively replaced every other water change). 

A cycled tank uses bio filtration to take care of the ammonia.  
If you use anything else (I hope this is not too strong) to remove
ammonia the bio filter will not develop properly.

>The above setup is according to the manufacturers instructions and has
>worked well to date, however if any of it is unnecessary I would prefer
>to spend the $$$ elsewhere!  

IMHO you should not be using the ammonia-rid and the carbon is optional.

You can do without the ammonia-rid once the tank is cycled but to cycle
the tank you will need to go through a period where there will be some
ammonia and nitrite present.

In regards to the carbon: In an earlier posting Greg Frazier(sp) pointed
out that carbon is never nessary.  It seems that Greg is correct.  If
anyone knows different let us know.  The carbon may improve the water
quality but it is not required.

>So, in your opinion and/or experience, what
>is necessary and what isn't for the care and feeding of an external
>canister type filter in a fresh water setup?

For the most part just mech followed by bio.

>Please respond here since interest seems high on this topic (hopefully,
>so is relevant experience/anecdotes).  Thanx!
>-----------------------------------------------------------------------
>INTERNET: lenny@bnr.ca                 Any opinions expressed are mine.
>
>"You get the most noise from the emptiest barrels."  (Burton Cummings)


-- 
Howard Rebel hpcsos.col.hp.com 

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: mlp@uh.msc.edu (Mark Peterson)
Subject: Silica sand and cleaning
Organization: Minnesota Supercomputer Center, Minneapolis, MN
Distribution: World
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 07:53:51 GMT


    I have silica sand on the bottom of my aquarium. It is always dirty.
Do any of you have efficient methods of cleaning the bottom without
the water changes and a siphon tube. To keep it clean that way I'd
have to do a water change every 2 days.


                                                  mlp@uh.msc.edu



Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: mar@athena.mit.edu (Mark A. Rosenstein)
Subject: Re: No substrate?  Is this a better idea?
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 18:21:45 GMT

In a reef tank, I would certainly recommend not using a substrate.
Small creatures in the live rock generate a lot of detritus which
would just get trapped in the substrate and it is difficult to clean.
It's hard enough to keep it clean underneath live rocks on a bare
bottom.  And in a reef tank, it's important to keep nitrates low
which means that you can't allow any build up of detritus.

It's also common to see no substrate in breeding tanks.  You do need
a substrate in plant tanks or with an undergravel filter.  If you have
a tank where you don't need a substrate, but like the look of sand or
gravel on the bottom, there is something you can do.  Spreading a very
thin layer often does not work because the fish will move it around
and create bare spots and it still has to be kept clean.  Instead,
get a piece of plexiglass that will just fit the bottom of your tank,
spread a layer of aquarium sealant on the plexiglass, and then cover it
with sand and/or gravel.  When the glue dries, shake off any excess.
You now have a sheet of "substrate" that looks OK but will not leave
bare spots and won't trap too much detritus.
					-Mark
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: bruceg@Cadence.COM (Bruce Gustifson)
Subject: Re: Coral safe for Freshwater tanks?
Organization: Cadence Design Systems, Inc.
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 21:21:28 GMT

In article <Bt798B.J85@space.physics.uiowa.edu> dyson@sunfish.Physics.UIowa.EDU writes:
>In article <22929@hacgate.SCG.HAC.COM>, frazier@maxwell (Greg Frazier) writes:
>> nick@socrates.umd.edu (Nick Lemberos) writes:
>> : subject says it all.  found some nice coral while down in the florida
>> : keys (some I bought, others I found in the water).  
>> 
>> Coral is not good for freshwater tanks.  It will cause
>> your water to harden.  Also, it is considered in poor taste
>> to purchase coral, and only an asshole removes it from the
>> ocean.  Yes, that was a flame.
>
>
>Not only an asshole, but a CRIMINAL one.  It is a federal offense to
>evne TOUCH coral in the ocean inside the US waters!
>
>rick
  Oh, he's sorry about that boys. He means corral, as in a pen for
his sea-horses. A minor semantic error!
  But seriously folks, agreed it was a mistake what Nick did, but 
jeez, take a valium. Judge not lest you be judged (I know you are
perfect).

************************************************************************
"Would you believe it if you     |  Pepsi ad campaign in Thailand;
saw it with your own eyes?"      | Come alive with the Pepsi Generation
   Asked the woman               |    In Thai translates to:
"That depends"                   | Pepsi will raise your ancestors
    Replied I                    |	from the dead.
***********************************************************************
From: oleg@Veritas.COM (Oleg Kiselev)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Water changes
Date: 28 Aug 92 10:50:41 GMT
Reply-To: oleg@veritas.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Distribution: na
Organization: Palo Alto Killifish Loft
X-Disclaimer: I speak for myself only unless explicitly indicated otherwise

luke@tfs.com (Luke Matam) writes:
>What do you and other people do with SOOOOO many tanks ? 

Every pair or trio of breeders gets their own tank.  Every size of fry of 
every species needs their own tank.  It's quite simple, really.

It's a hobby gone wild.  It's a life style.  It's an obsession.  It's cheaper
than snorting coke and is less likely to kill you than driving fast on twisty
mountain roads.
-- 
"Republicans understand the importance of bondage between a mother and 
child." -- Dan Quayle
 
Oleg Kiselev                                             oleg@veritas.com
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: harold@wam.umd.edu (James B. Harold)
Subject: Re: Orandas freak out when I turn on light
Organization: University of Maryland, College Park
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 13:12:08 GMT

In article <1992Aug30.142213.6353@iscsvax.uni.edu> dutkowsk5111@iscsvax.uni.edu writes:
>Hello,
>  I just bought a top with a flourescent (sp?) light in it for my 20 L 
>tank.  I have some large Orandas in there and they seem to go nuts whenever I
>turn it on.  I have it off now and they act normal.  What gives??

Can't really say for sure, but what did you have as lighting
before?  When I went from fl. to metal halide, it took my
fish weeks to begin to get used to it (rainbows, mostly).  When
the tank went "topless" (i.e., no hood), the same thing 
happened, and when I got some ripple action going, the same
thing happened _again_.  My assumption was that fish have
enough predators to worry about that live outside the water
that they're particularly sensitive to changes in the 
shadows around them.  Nowadays my rainbows will hang out
right at the surface, but they spent many months hugging
the bottom and being generally skittish.

James Harold
harold@wam.umd.edu
From: lenny@bmerh187.BNR.CA (Len DePalma)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Gallons (was: Re: [F] Setup for plants and fish)
Date: 2 Sep 92 20:37:58 GMT
Reply-To: lenny@x400gate.bnr.ca
Organization: BNR Ottawa, Fiber Systems Development


In article <92246.115439HCM100@psuvm.psu.edu>, <HCM100@psuvm.psu.edu> writes:
|> In article <2800204@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM>, booth@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM
(George Booth)
|> >    Britain, isn't it?) a favour and use LITRES instead.
|> >Geez, do *us* a favor and learn to spell :-)
|> George, do us a favour and don't flame the guy for spelling.  For what it's
|> worth, *american* English spells many words differently than the rest of the
|> world.  Center, Centre.  Color, Colour.  Theater, Theatre.  Anyway, by now
|> regular net users should know that spelling is hardly a criteria for in-
|> telligence.  ;-)

Thanks Hans... I didn't think George needed the issues spelled out
for him.   

PS - George, et all... I still haven't found out why there's both a
     US and Imperial unit of measure called a gallon - I know the 
     Imperial came first, wasn't it good enough/close enough for ya?

PSS - Isn't it time for someone to tell us to take this topic elsewhere?
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
INTERNET: lenny@bnr.ca                 Any opinions expressed are mine.

"You get the most noise from the emptiest barrels."  (Burton Cummings)
From: richmar@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Rich Maroncelli)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 20:16:53 GMT
Subject: Re: Single vs Double Strip Hoods
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria

 I have a 55 gal tank with 2 single strip lights and a 110 gal
 with a double light strip.

 The double light strip puts out 3 times as much light
 as the 2 single light strips.

 The double light strip also makes it easier to access the
 tank because it takes up less room.

 I would recommend the double light strips with a reflector
 behind the bulbs.

 PS. I'm using the standard bulbs that come with the strips 
     no fancy bulbs are being used.


 Cheers,

 Rich Maroncelli






.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier)
Subject: Re: [M] Powerhead killed Damsel! Suggestions?
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 92 16:03:19 GMT

Mr.Coach (schwarz@esrican.uucp) wrote:
: damsel had been sucked up into the intake of the powerhead.
: 
: How do I avoid this from happening in the future?
: 

There are a number of solutions.  You could stick a 4" length of
1/2" PVC pipe onto the intake of the powerhead.  Cap the other
end of the PVC, and drill many many many holes in the pipe.
OR, you could simply put some plastic/fiberglass window screen
over the intake.  Or, you could fasion a shield with a 35mm film
cannister (w/ many many many holes drilled in it, of course).
Or, you could use a strawberry box...

--
"They thought to use and shame me but I win out by nature, because a true
freak cannot be made.  A true freak must be born." - Geek Love

Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: ffujita@s.psych.uiuc.edu (Frank Fujita)
Subject: Re: [F] Setup for plants and fish
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 05:59:20 GMT

jartsu@vipu.hut.fi (Jartsu) writes:

> ffujita@s.psych.uiuc.edu (Frank Fujita) writes:
>> What type of plants do you suggest I keep with my goldfish?  Or should I
>> "grow up" or should I get out of the hobby?

>Anything that has tough roots and hard leaves, and can tolerate a
>little colder water. Goldfish tend to move gravel and munch leaves,
>that's why these qualities are important. It is up to you what you can
>find, there are quite many that fit. And because tough plants grow
>slower, choose something already big enough.

I received a letter saying to try hornwort, for opposite reasons, as in
it grows faster than the goldfish can eat it.  Let me ask more politely,
I have tried several types of plants, several people have told me that
goldfish eat *all* plants.  I am going to try Hornwort, based on a
specific suggestion, however, I am not going to try every hard leaved
plant--Please make a specific suggestion (preferably if you have that
specific plant in your tank with your goldfish).

Sorry for the tone in my earlier post, 

Frank
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: dhiggs@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (General Protection Fault)
Subject: Re: Drilling Aquarium Tank
Organization: is the refuge of the unimaginative!
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1992 14:55:33 GMT


In article <10120025@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM> johnn@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (John Nicol) writ
es:
+I have an old 55 gal tank that I came across that I would like to setup.
+What I want to do is drill two holes in the bottom for water inlet and
+outlet.  How does one drill a hole in glass or where can I get it done?
+I have heard rumors that only kind of glass that can be drilled is
+non-tempered.  How do I tell what type of glass I have?

I've been told both that it is and isn't possible to drill tempered glass.  My 
recommendation would be to find a glass dealer in your area.  They should have 
the tools and expertise right in the shop.  I mean an actual glass supplier 
like Anderson Glass, not a hardware store or do-it-yourself store which also
sells glass.  If nothing else, call one of the most expensive construction 
contractors in your area and they'll probably tell you who they use once you
tell them what you need.

Keith.
-- 
D.K.Higgs  DATA+@osu.edu  a.k.a  dhiggs@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu _____   __o
Ohio State University Libraries, Acquisitions Department      -------    -\<,
Continuation Acquisition Division                              ------ ( )/ ( )
~~(614)292-6314~~~~~~fax(614)292-2015~~~~~~~~~~\_________/~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:6835 alt.aquaria:4756
From: ccshf@gdr.bath.ac.uk (Henry Ford)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: [F] Setup for plants and fish
Date: 27 Aug 92 11:07:11 GMT
Organization: Bath University Computing Services, UK


I've 4 goldfish in a 30" tank with amazon swords, hygrophila, an unidentified
crypt (balansae?) that was a runt from the other tank, and they'e all doing
ok. At the beginning, they often get uprooted, but once their roots get into
the soil, there's no stopping them.
Henry Ford
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: schwarz@esrican.uucp (Mr.Coach)
Subject: Materials for Light Hoods
Organization: ESRI Canada
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1992 15:04:48 GMT



I am about to construct a light hood made of 3/8" solid wood 
(ie. not plywood) and tongue & groove pine for my 72g marine 
tank.  I intend to have an opening in the back for ventilation.  
If I decide to go the MH route, then I'll buy one
or two fans.  

1)  What wood can/should I use?  I'd prefer something rather 
inexpensive yet practical.  Then again, who doesn't.  I'd like 
to avoid oak since whatever I use will be covered by the pine.
Besides, oak is expensive.

2)  What should I use to seal/protect the wood from warping,
salt damage, etc?  Anything special?  I realize it should be
non-toxic.

3)  Has anyone mail ordered one of these "light hood, retrofit" 
deals into Canada from Hamilton Tech or Energy Savers Unltd. 
out of Cal.?  Any bad experiences?  I'm considering the 2 MH 
and 2 actinic model.


P.S.  I'll be visiting in and around the north eastern U.S. 
(e.g. NY, VT, NH, MASS, CONN, and maybe PA).  Are there any
"must see" marine aquaria places that are in this area?  I
hope I haven't left this question to open but I'll try it 
anyway.

Thanks,  
 
Brian.
From: whiles@nswc.navy.mil (William Scott Hiles x1568)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Gallons (was: Re: [F] Setup for plants
Date: 27 Aug 92 17:47:09 GMT
Reply-To: whiles@nswc.navy.mil
Organization: Naval Surface Warfare Center, Dahlgren Division

In article 1019@bmerh85.bnr.ca, lenny@bmerh187.BNR.CA (Len DePalma) writes:
>|> US gallon or the British gallon? Could someone tell me what the 
>|> conversion factor is? I guess it's about 2 US to 1 British, but I 
>|> could be totally wrong :-)
>
>Why waste your time with that pathetic system, haven't you heard,
>metric's the word!  Do us all (it's universal outside of the US and
>Britain, isn't it?) a favour and use LITRES instead.
>-----------------------------------------------------------------------
>INTERNET: lenny@bnr.ca                 Any opinions expressed are mine.
>
>"You get the most noise from the emptiest barrels."  (Burton Cummings)

NO!  If you read this group and want the information, translate.  Gees...
how arrogant can you get!  Regardless of what you may want people to
say or write, the products sold in the US still bear the size in gallons.
This is true of not only the stuff made in the US, but also stuff imported
in.  Get off your high horse.  Why do you spell color as "colour" and
fiber as "fibre" and liters as "litres".  That is the way you were taught
and this is the way I was taught!  

Yes I take offense to your comment!

---
Scott Hiles
whiles@relay.nswc.navy.mil

Standard disclaimer:
  The opinions expressed are those of my own and do not necessarily 
  reflect those of the DOD or the Navy.  I accept full responsibility.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: mvp@hsv3.lsil.com (Mike Van Pelt)
Subject: Re: [F] Setup for plants and fish
Organization: LSI Logic/Headland Technology
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 18:04:37 GMT

In article <1992Aug28.053313.14042@mr.med.ge.com> bednarek@picard.med.ge.com (Dennis Bednarek Mfg 4-6971) writes:
>Let's get back to the removal of those nasty and costly under gravel
>filters.  ...  Whenever I clean my tanks I remove all the gravel ...
>fill a pail 1/3 full with the old gravel and thsn stick a garden hose
>in it, untill the overflow of water is crystal clear.

That's overkill.  I have a 100 gallon tank with 50 cardinal tetras, two
red-tail sharks, a couple of pearl gouramis, a <algae-eating "p-word"
catfish that must not be named lest it suffer the net.curse>, some
swordtails, a giant danio, half a dozen harlequin rasboras, a big
Amazon sword potted with Dupla laterite balls (The net is right --
laterite is the secret for good Amazon sword growth.  They always died
on me before.) and water sprite threatening to take over the tank.

I clean it with one of those siphons that's a 3" diameter tube about
two feet long, connected to a small tube that's just exactly the right
size to force into a garden hose.  When making water changes, I just
siphon out most of the gunk with it.

It doesn't pay to be too fanatical about keeping the gravel clean,
or you'll wreck the biological filter, which is what undergravel
filters are all about.
-- 
Mike Van Pelt          | What happens if a big asteroid hits Earth?
LSI Logic/Headland     | Judging from realistic simulations involving a
mvp@hsv3.lsil.com      | sledge hammer and a common laboratory frog, we
sun!indetech!hsv3!mvp  | can assume it will be pretty bad. -- Dave Barry
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: cburns@ucs.indiana.edu (chris burns)
Subject: Re: Tetra CO2 System?  Lights?
Followup-To: rec.aquaria
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 00:28:21 GMT

In article <1992Aug28.161306.18526@uwm.edu>, wls@cray.csd.uwm.edu (Bill
Stapleton) wrote:
> 
> I was surprised to see a Tetra CO2 injection system in the store last night.

[stuff deleted

> But I checked all three of my last fish magazines
> and not a word to be found anywhere, and nobody seems to sell it mail order.
> 
> Anybody using this, or know much about it?  I assume it's very similar to the
> Dupla system?


The new tetra CO2 injection system is brand new and you probably saw a
prototype or a store use model supplied to the store by tetra.  If they
have them for sale, I (a store manager) don't know where they are getting
them.  But I want them.

Ted (on cb's account)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: crayfe2@inel.gov (John Metzner)
Subject: [M] Salt Survey
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 92 19:57:08 GMT

	The other day I took the time to read an add in FAMA for a salt 
water mix.  This particular manufacturer made some references to a 
competitors product and what was wrong with it.  Since I've been on the net
(not long) I've seen several surveys done and thought it might be interesting
to see what salt mixes everyone is using and in what type of tanks.
	So, I volunteer to compile the results and post the same.  I believe
my e-mail address is generally available to everyone and anything that bounces
can be put on the net & I'll pick it up. 

If you'll send me:

	1) Type of tank set-up (i.e. Reef, Fish only, Mixed fish/invert.)
	2) Type or brand of salt mix used.
	3) Any other comments you'd like to include.

I'll put it all together and post it back to the net.

John Metzner
Cray Research, Inc.
crayfe2@inel.gov

( I have no control over the disclaimer below..... I'd hit 'n' )




========== long legal disclaimer follows, press n to skip ===========

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Newsgroups: rec.aquaria