HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: sonny@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (joseph.j.de rosa)
Subject: Re: Breeding Tetras
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 11:19:16 GMT

In article <1992Jul21.074655.28509@Veritas.COM> oleg@veritas.com (Oleg Kiselev) writes:
>howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel) writes:
>>late 60's) indicates that tetras in general are very difficult to 
>>breed and that most tetras being sold were caught in the wild.
>
>A lot of tetras are still caught in the Amazon delta and imported.  This is
>in part because many tetras are sort of like the piscine equivalent of
>roaches and breed in huge numbers, in part this is because they are cheaper
>to catch in Brazil than to raise in US or Indonesia.  If carefully managed,
>the supply of the wild tetras can be sustained and harvested forever, but 
>deforestation, polution and over-fishing may destroy theor populations.
>
>>Are tetras still difficult to breed ?
>
>Depends on what tetras you have in mind.  Some are very easy, some are not.

[Oleg describes his set-up for breeding Flame  and Lemon Tetras deleted]

>Try a healthy group of flame or lemon tetras -- in my experience they are 
>not difficult.

There are lots of other tetras that are easy to breed. I started with Black
tetras, and quickly had more fry than I could handle. Glowlights are another
prolific fish, and very easy too. Permanent set-ups like Olegs work best with
fish that breed constantly, like Emperor Tetras, but even Diamond Tetras are a 
good fish to try in such a tank. Pick one of these tetras, get 6-8 and put 
them in a 10-20 gallon tank with some peat (live sphagnum works even better)
feed them well and keep the tank clean. You should see fry within a few weeks.
Of course this assumes initial stock was sexually mature.

Joe DeRosa
fish 
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: tom@dynamo.ecn.purdue.edu (Tom McCain)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria,sci.aquaria
Subject: Re: Why three xxx.aquaria?
Date: 21 Jul 92 15:03:50 GMT
Organization: Purdue University, West Lafayette, IN

dhiggs@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Unrecoverable Application Error) writes:

:I'm noticing that the net has a ver clever cross posting device, or at least
:it does here at OSU.  sci.aquaria gets puked out as a bogus newsgroup if you 
:try to subscribe to it.  However, posting ONLY to sci.aquaria causes posts to
:appear in BOTH alt.aquaria and rec.aquaria!

It sounds like your site has a problem....  Ask someone about it.

:Perhaps there are really only two xxx.aquaria groups and sci.aquaria is a
:joint poster!?  At any rate, I think we could combine all into one and nobody:would complain!

Yes they will complain!  Trust me, it's simpler to just cross post if
your article warrants it.  Not everyone receives all three groups.  I
do receive all three groups and merge them into one.  This is *very*
easy if you use "nn" as your news reader.  The groups really are just
fine the way they're set up.

--

Tom McCain 
tom@ecn.purdue.edu
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:5979 alt.aquaria:4300
From: ames@biostat.washington.edu (Diane Ames)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: FOR SALE:  Seattle, WA
Date: 23 Jul 92 15:30:21 GMT
Article-I.D.: u.1992Jul23.153021.21475
Distribution: pnw
Organization: You've gotta be kidding!

TANKS:

100 gallon acrylic tank/wrought-iron stand/AquaClear 500/EboJaeger 250/
	airpump/gravel/slate/driftwood:  $300.00

40 gallon acrylic tank/AquaClear 300/EboJaeger 250/airpump/gravel/rocks/
	driftwood:  $150.00


FISH:

4 Clown Loaches (@ 3-4" each), 1 G. Balzani (@ 3-4") 

1 13+" African Featherfin (needs a large tank to himself, currently resides
in the 100 gallon)


-Diane Ames
ames@biostat.washington.edu  (through Friday, July 24 only!!)
work phone:  543-1044 (through Friday, July 24 only!!)
home phone:  782-4623
From: kilpat@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Andrew Kilpatrick)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Disease Question
Date: 22 Jul 92 19:54:50 GMT
Reply-To: kilpat@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Andrew Kilpatrick)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

Is my fish sick ?

I recently bought a striped catfish.  He's about two inches long
and sleeps contstantly.

Sometimes when I feed the fish I wake him up to get some food.
The last two days when I wake him he has had a white string of
gunk hanging off of it around maybe the top of his gills.  Looks
like cotton strands.

Is it possible for fish to get colds?  He may have not been allowed
to adjust to the temperature properly.  And the stuff looks like it
could be fish snot.  ( I'm guessing some people got a laugh at this
paragraph but I don't know what it is )

Anyway, the sleeping doesn't really bother me because I have checked
him late at night and noticed he was moving around.  Causing me to
believe he is either nocturnal or shy.  But this cottony looking
stuff, (there is no cotton in the filter) kind of bothers me.  Is it
a symptom of something else?

Confused and a little Worried,
Andrew
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel)
Subject: Source for bulk activated carbon?
Originator: howardr@hplsdum.col.hp.com
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 19:33:53 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division

I started looking for a source of activated 
carbon that was less costly then the local pet 
shop at US $1.30 per lb.  

I am sure that someone else has gone down this 
road befor and I would be glad to get any input.

What type of activated carbon is required.  
I was informed that carbon can be made from 
several types of coal, wallnut shell, bone etc.

Howard


-- 
Howard Rebel hpcsos.col.hp.com 

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: patton@phy.uab.edu (David Patton)
Subject: breeding cichlids 
Reply-To: patton@phy.uab.edu
Organization: University of Alabama at Birmingham
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 14:10:56 GMT

For those of you familiar with breeding various cichlids, what method
of removal do you use to seperate the fry from the parents for 
raising in a seperate tank?
Do you find it more convenient to remove the parents to a seperate 
tank and then catch the fry or is there an alternative method.
Because of the parent's fierce protection of the young, I do
not want to overstress them or cause them to panic and make a
meal of the fry!  Any suggestions?

patton@phy.uab.edu



Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: efang@pomona.claremont.edu
Subject: <None>
Organization: Pomona College
Date: 27 Jul 92 21:44:31 PDT

It is my belief that they are actually hand painted- I'm not sure how you could
just chemically dope the water like that. Anyway, I can't imagine it's good for
the fish, and so should not be supported, even if you like such unnatural
things
Eric Fang


In article <1992Jul28.021935.26164@news.clarkson.edu>, russell@sun.soe.clarkson.edu (David M. Russell) writes:
> From article <nr9ppq4@zola.esd.sgi.com>, by jj@aquarium.esd.sgi.com (Jennifer Jacobi):
>> 
>> This is lore, *right*?  Painted glass fish aren't "painted" are they?
>> 
>> --jj
> 
>    I may be wrong but, as I understand it the are really painted.
> Just not how you think. They are painted "chemically". (ie. something
> is put in the water that causes the colors.) They colors will also
> 'wear off' with time. (Not a silly question, I've asked it. Then 
> again maybe it is silly.)
> 
>  DMR
>
From: colorado@venus.next.com (Delia Colorado (Temp))
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: How large can a  convict get?
Date: 28 Jul 92 23:28:17 GMT
Distribution: rec.aquaria

I had the understanding that convicts get big, but not huge.  Can  
someone tell me how big can they get?  I saw a gorgeous pair today  
and I would like to know if they will fit the tank I have or if I  
should forget the idea. Thanks
Delia
From: shine@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (stephen.c.shine)
Subject: Re: [M] Diet for Yellow Tang
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 16:58:14 GMT

In article gordon@pinetree.org (Gordon Dewis) writes:
>You could also try spinach. (sp?)  Apparently they like that too.

My yellow tang absolutely loves spinach.  I'd suggest turning off
your filtration while the tang and it's tank mates rip the stuff
to shreds, otherwise I've found a good bit of it ends up in my
foam fractionator.
-- 
Steve Shine
AT&T Bell Labs    (908)949-8517
att!hoqub!shine   att!cbnewsh!shine
My opinions, not my employers, not my fault, blah, blah, blah.
From: mstephens.520@postman.gsfc.nasa.gov (mark stephens)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Automatic Feeding Device
Date: 28 Jul 92 12:15:38 GMT
Organization: nasa/gsfc

I have the Eheim.  It was, amailingly enough, the cheapest around.  It
works by having a rotating drum with an open slot.  When the slot rotates
down, toward the tank, food falls out.  The slot then rotates back up and
awaits the next cycle.  Pegs are slipped into slots to tell the device
when to begin a cycle.  

Works "OK".  The knob used to adjust the device to real time turns only 
one way and is a real pain to adjust (many turns).  The slot has a sliding
door, allowing one to adjust the amount of food dumped into the tank.  
First time I managed to dump about a weeks worth in.  Boy, was I pissed.
It was never clear to me just how much food was getting in the water.  
It did do a good job (once properly adjusted) at dispensing the food 
gradually (I used flakes). 

My advice:  for vacation of two weeks or less and with your average, non
difficult fish, don't bother feeding.  This may not work too well if you
have barbs or other fish which may look elsewhere for a treat... like
somebodies fins!  If you do get a feeder, set it for a very light, frequent
feeding schedule.  The fish will still get food, but you lessen the chance
of a mishap.

             mark


In article <4486@rosie.NeXT.COM>, ccliu@amy (Chang-Chi Liu) writes:
> 
> There are two automatic feeding devices available on a mail-order catalog.   
> They are made by Eheim and Rondomatic respectively.  Does anyone have  
> experience with them?
> 
>
From: mstephens.520@postman.gsfc.nasa.gov (mark stephens)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: breeding cichlids
Date: 28 Jul 92 12:01:10 GMT
Organization: nasa/gsfc

A member of our fish club breeds angels in his basement professionally.
Most of his fish breed on slates which, when loaded with eggs, he removes
to a gallon jar with the blue fungus preventative (methaline blue?) and 
an air hose (or sometimes not!  he has success without moving water over
the eggs.)  Once hatched he siphons the young wigglers around to various
tanks depending on how big they are.   Of course, they eventually reach
the unsiphonable stage and he resorts to nets.

I've heard of others who siphon fry, and, once I'm setup to breed, I'll
try it myself.  The above guy has the yongest fish on top of a three tiered
stand with the oldest at the bottom.

        mark 

In article <1992Jul27.141056.2981@cis.uab.edu>, patton@phy.uab.edu (David Patton) writes:
> 
> For those of you familiar with breeding various cichlids, what method
> of removal do you use to seperate the fry from the parents for 
> raising in a seperate tank?
> Do you find it more convenient to remove the parents to a seperate 
> tank and then catch the fry or is there an alternative method.
> Because of the parent's fierce protection of the young, I do
> not want to overstress them or cause them to panic and make a
> meal of the fry!  Any suggestions?
> 
> patton@phy.uab.edu
> 
>
From: mattk@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (matthew.kaufman)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: snails (help?)
Summary: Be careful out there...
Keywords: snail help kill kill kill
Date: 21 Jul 92 14:40:45 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T

In article <1992Jul21.014034.21187@hsv3.lsil.com> mvp@hsv3.lsil.com (Mike Van Pelt) writes:
>
>That's the problem.  Fortunately, snails that big are easier
>to find and squish or flush.  Quarter or even dime-sized snails
>are too big for the loaches to handle.  The thing that makes
>snails such a problem is the little microscopic baby ones that
>are there in the millions.  The loaches will happily polish those
>off for you.

If you *do* squish them, if you squish them in the tank, you'll release
lots of eggs into the water (damn things are always gravid, probably
born that way.) Take them out of the tank before squishing, clean
your fingers (if that's what you squish with) before sticking them into
another tank.
-- 
"They'll never let you   | Copyright 1992 mattk@usl.com. Permission for
out of here alive.       | reproduction in printed media or by pay-for-read
They're not that stupid."| services explicitly disallowed. Permission granted
"I disagree."            | USENET and like free facilities.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: kji@vpnet.chi.il.us (Ken Isacson)
Subject: [M] Diet for Yellow Tang
Organization: Vpnet - Free Usenet access
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 01:22:29 GMT

Anyone else out there have a Yellow Tang?  If so, what do you feed it?

Is a Yellow Tang interested in letuce?


-- 
__________________________________________________________

   /\__  /\__   /\__\__\__   /\__     /\__     
     \__  \__     \__    /     \__\__   \__    
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: PLai@cup.portal.com (Patrick L Faith)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: Cold Salt Water Aquarium
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 92 21:56:28 PDT
Organization: The Portal System (TM)
Distribution: usa
  <l6o3skINN6r3@news.bbn.com>

Concerning Ralph Browns comments on light, I agree, you hear a lot
about how light is not important for temperate systems, well I'm growing
more convinced on the use of metal halides to cover half of the tank.

I have some VHO's that are not cutting it in my tank - the green algeas
that are barely subtidal that grow fast really need good light.  I think
that tanks with marginal algea growth are a pain, because of a fairly
quick rate of nitrate build up, since you have to feed an temperate reef
more because the inverts really more on food than light.

Concerning collecting, there are some nice way of collecting that does
not concern a fishing license and the 100 foot from shore collection
limits.  Basically you wait after a big storm and you'll find a bunch of
holdfast with tons of stuff on them, washed up on shore.  Drift sea weed
like this is collectable without a license (just pertend you don't notice
the inverts on the drift - it will die anyway since it is washed up on
the beach).  Things to watch ... there tends to be a lot of wierd worms
and nudibranchs that can be a pain ... i especially dislike nudibranchs
that eat tidal anemones (i.e. some things can't stand the environment
in the tides so can't attack aggregating annemones - but in your tank
they will go on a feeding frenzy because your mixing subtidal and tidal
species (i.e. most things coming from the holdfast will be subtidal).)

                 PLai
From: "larry wheatley" <larry.wheatley@canrem.com>
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: 150 gallon reef aquar
Date: 29 Jul 92 19:24:00 EST
Reply-To: "larry wheatley" <larry.wheatley@canrem.com>
Distribution: rec
Organization: Canada Remote Systems

PA>Drop me a line if you are interested in aquiring a 150 gallon
PA>(6 foot long) reef aquarium system.  It includes lots of goodies
PA>such as W/D filtration, drilled tank, Oceanic protein skimmer, ozone,
PA>Metal halide -and- VHO actinic lighting, auto water replacement
PA>150+ pounds of live rock and more.

Hi Paul,
        I'd Love to buy your rock and protein skimmer, but I live in
Toronto.  

If you got any ideas, or don't mind shipping (my expense) then please
reply.

I would also be interested in the auto water replacement!


larry.
---
  DeLuxe 1.21 #4132  My kingdom for a horse!
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario/Detroit, MI
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: mattk@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (matthew.kaufman)
Subject: Re: African Cichlid
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 14:04:02 GMT

In article <1992Jul28.023654.26684@news.clarkson.edu> russell@sun.soe.clarkson.edu (David M. Russell) writes:
>
>   Last year I bought an African Cichlid, and have a few 
>questions/remarks. It took a while but I was finally able to
>identify it as a female Labetropheus Fulleborni. (What attracted
>me to this fish was the orange/brown marbled color and the 
>peculiar nose.)
>
>First: Does anyone know the common name, if there is one?
Labeotrophus Fulleborni. No common name.
>
>Second: Since obtaining this fish I have not seen another one
>        anywhere, and I have looked. I'm trying to find a male.
>        I have four stores trying to find one. (Do I have the
>        last one :-)
Join the ACA, there's always some (well, often, anyway) for sale in the
'Trading Post.'
>
>Third: What does anyone think about breeding her with a Red Zebra,
>       they are closely related.
Abomination! Hobbyists shouldn't deliberately hybridize, even though some
do. The ACA won't accept listings for hybrids and is very much against it.
>
>Comments and Suggestions welcome.
Look elsewhere for a male. They exist. Nice fish.

Weren't you the one with the contaminant cichlids in with the feeder
guppies? Whay your describing almost sounds like an Aulonocara. Did you
look at any of them? The white patches by the cheeks are odd, though. Made
me think it might be some sort of tropheus.
-- 
"They'll never let you   | Copyright 1992 mattk@usl.com. Permission for
out of here alive.       | reproduction in printed media or by pay-for-read
They're not that stupid."| services explicitly disallowed. Permission granted
"I disagree."            | USENET and like free facilities.
From: cackowsk@irisa.fr (Frederic Cackowski)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Wanted : BOAT : J24
Date: 21 Jul 92 10:36:13 GMT
Organization: Irisa, Rennes(FR)


	A friend of mine is looking for a J24, so if one of you has

	got one to offer for sale please contact him. Here is his 

	address and name :

		Mr Michel Moysan
		26, rue Thiers
		56 400 Le Bono
		France

		tel : 97.57.85.46

ps : please, avoid to e-mail me, :-), I'm no sea-hunter, thanks.

==================================================================

      To hell with the 'n' key!  Hit the whole damn computer!


         ____________________                      ?
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                 L_ !                                !                    !
                / _)!                                !                ____!
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         _____/ (____)                               !              /
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                  STRIKE ANY KEY WHEN READY !!!!
From: poncho@amigans.gen.nz (Peter Northway)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Heaters
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 92 09:48:26 GMT
Organization: Wanganui Amigans, Wanganui, New Zealand

Hi I have only recently started reading this group.
I used to keep and breed tropicls more years ago than I care to remember
(about twenty) and at that time we (members of the local club) always
used to bury our heaters under the gravel.

I have recently _inherited_ a tank from a couple going overseas
and so have re-entered the Piscean fraternity. Several books that I
have read in order to re-activate the dormant brain cells have warned
against this practice but give no reason wht the heater should not be
buried.

Anyone throw any light on this. Were we doing it wrong back then?
Are the heaters of today less robust than those of 20 years ago?


               poncho@amigans.gen.nz

Peter Northway       |   :-) and the world :-)'s with you
Wanganui New Zealand |   :-( and you :-( alone.
From: ccliu@amy (Chang-Chi Liu)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Automatic Feeding Device
Date: 27 Jul 92 19:30:06 GMT

There are two automatic feeding devices available on a mail-order catalog.   
They are made by Eheim and Rondomatic respectively.  Does anyone have  
experience with them?
From: mstephens.520@postman.gsfc.nasa.gov (mark stephens)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Painted Glass Fish
Date: 28 Jul 92 12:19:54 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: nasa/gsfc

Gee, I thought they were painted by the Kebler elves!  

I hope you don't want to purchase these poor fish.  It's bad enough we
humans have to quark zebra danios and other fish into forms which can
bairly swim due to their long fins.  Just my personal opinion on the 
habits of fish breeders (and their customers).  On the other hand,
putting on my hyprocratic hat, koi have been breed (quarked!) for 
many years and they look fantastic. 

       mark

In article <1992Jul28.021935.26164@news.clarkson.edu>, russell@sun.soe.clarkson.edu (David M. Russell) writes:
> 
> From article <nr9ppq4@zola.esd.sgi.com>, by jj@aquarium.esd.sgi.com (Jennifer Jacobi):
> > 
> > On numerous occations I have had to opportunity to gaze at 
> > the latest inhabitants of the local fish stores -- painted 
> > glass fish.
> > 
>  ...
>  ...
> > 
> > A friend of mine however purchased a dozen of these creatures 
> > AND was told by the retailer that these fish were actually
> > PAINTED.  i.e. Someone with a paintbrush actually applied paint
> > to the side of these fish.
> > 
> > Now brace yourselves -- my question is: "Are they really painted?"
> > 
> > I can't believe this to be true -- visions of people armed with
> > paint brushes and glassfish with drying paint on their sides are 
> > just dancing in my head.
> > 
> > This is lore, *right*?  Painted glass fish aren't "painted" are they?
> > 
> > --jj
> 
>    I may be wrong but, as I understand it the are really painted.
> Just not how you think. They are painted "chemically". (ie. something
> is put in the water that causes the colors.) They colors will also
> 'wear off' with time. (Not a silly question, I've asked it. Then 
> again maybe it is silly.)
> 
>  DMR
> 
>
From: steve@celia.UUCP (Steve Tyree)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [M] Threespot Damsel Spawning?
Date: 22 Jul 92 20:04:00 GMT
Reply-To: celia!steve@usc.edu (Steve Tyree)
Distribution: na
Organization: Rhythm & Hues, Inc., Hollywood


 I took a quick look at references on damsel fish spawning and came up
with the following.

  Dascyllus trimaculatis  (Domino Damsel, Three Spot Damsefish)

        Dascyllus   Eggs Size   .49 mm - .85 mm
                    Egg Color   Transparent to Straw. (What color is straw?)
                    Yolk Absorption is complete 3 days after hatching.

  A reference was listed on the spawning of this species but it appears
 to be in french. If anyone can read french and wants the reference send
 mail.
 You need to accurately measure the size of the larvae after hatching.
 This will determine what size food cultures should be tried. Also, try
 not to disurb the pair for the first 2-3 spawns. Let them get into the
 habit of spawning before disrupting them. My experience shows that if
 you bother them a lot they may stop spawning for awhile.

 Steve Tyree - Reef Breeder
 
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria