HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: dewolfe@ug.cs.dal.ca (Anarchy for Peace)
Subject: Re: Alpe d'Huez stats wanted
Organization: Math, Stats & CS, Dalhousie University, Halifax, NS, Canada
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 01:12:09 GMT

In article <1992Jul21.210005.23797@slc.com> marcs@slc.com (Marc San Soucie) writes:
>I  (dewolfe@ug.cs.dal.ca) wrote:
>
>> Darran Edward Edmundson (dedmunds@selkirk.sfu.ca) writes:
>
>> > Does anyone know the vertical distance of this climb and how long it takes
>> > a good pro cyclist to climb it?
>
>> Yeah, I've been up it.  It starts out in the town of Bourg d'Oisans at 
>> an elevation of 711 metres and climbs to 1860 metres.  This is ~1150 metres
>> of elevation gain (~1200 to the actual finish line)  This works out to
>> about an average grade of 12%.  I distinctly remember last year when I
>> rode up it that there were at least 4 sections at > 15% (road signs:-)
>

[stats for pro times got deleted by someone]

>> I myself did it last year in ~53 minutes after following the same route
>> they did for Sunday's stage. (Galibier, Croix de Fer, L'Alpe D'Huez)
>> It really is quite a monster.  It's also listed on my map as being 13km.
>
>Hey! For us wannabes! What gearing did you use?

I used a crank with a 53/39 and a freewheel with 13-14-15-16-17-19-21.  
The Galibier can be climbed in the 39x17 sitting down (except for the 
very last section (100metres long) which WILL force you out of the saddle. (A
sudden change from ~6% to 12%)  Some spots I got away with a 53x19 (next
to the monument)  The Croix de Fer was scaled in 39x(17,19,21) (The last
7.5 km is the brutal part. One spot going over 10% for a few km)

On L'Alpe D'Huez itself I was in the 39x21 for the first 4km (to La Garde)
and then used the 19 and 21 evenly 'til the long stretch after Huez (goes
past an intersection) which is about 15% and had me in incredible pain (2km
to go) The rest is 39x17 (8-10% grade) material until a short downhill before 
you take a left hand turn to the uphill finish.

>
>
>> The only thing worse that I have been on are Mt. Washington in New Hampshire
>> and Col de la Bonnette (10000ft in 100km [3000 feet in 70km + 7000ft in 30 km).
>
>Where's that?

Col de la Bonnette is almost exactly 100km due north of Nice.  It's a good
day trip.  The day I did it, it was 35C in Nice (sea level), and ~5 at the top 
of the mountain (late June) avec beaucoup de neige.  Speaking of which, there
were these really cool 10ft walls of snow on either side of the road at the 
top of the Galibier when I went over it. Kinda neat and surrealistic.

>    Marc San Soucie
>    Portland, Oregon
>    marcs@slc.com

Colin DeWolfe
dewolfe@ug.cs.dal.ca
From: iglesias@draco.acs.uci.edu (Mike Iglesias)
Subject: Re: Results: Olympics, first day
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Organization: University of California, Irvine
Date: 27 Jul 92 20:21:37 GMT

In article <MOORE.92Jul27134950@defmacro.cs.utah.edu> moore@cs.utah.edu (Tim Moore) writes:
>I really don't understand this. Watt won several stages of the Ore-Ida
>stage race, the premier woman's race in the world. On one stage she
>took :36 seconds from Inga Thompson (or something; I don't have
>VeloNews handy). So she wasn't unknown to the American team or the
>other national teams that were at the Ore-Ida. Maybe Thompson was too
>fried from her solo chase to do much about Watt's attack.

According to this morning's LA Times, Inga tried to get others to help
chase Watt down (she knew about Watt's strengths) but no one would go
out after her.  They all figured they could chase her down before the
end. 


Mike Iglesias                        Internet:    iglesias@draco.acs.uci.edu
University of California, Irvine     BITNET:      iglesias@uci
Office of Academic Computing         uucp:        ...!ucbvax!ucivax!iglesias
Distributed Computing Support        phone:       (714) 856-6926
From: jbrodsky@oolong.hacks.arizona.edu (cool flowin gotta keep goin...)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Subject: Re: Headset problems with my mountain bike
Date: 25 Jul 92 21:34:21 GMT
Reply-To: jbrodsky@oolong.hacks.arizona.edu
Distribution: world,local
Organization: UofA Hardware And Computing Knowledge Society
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.4-a4

In article <9207211806.AA00273@suned1.Nswses.Navy.Mil>, suned1!jkb@nosc.mil (John K Bunk) writes...
>I've owned three mountain bikes, and every one has (or had) the problem
>of having the bearing locknut loosening constantly!  The threads of all
>headsets were not stripped, and I used two wrenches (not one) to tighten
>the locknut (used same procedure as with any other bearing adjustment).
> 
>Loctite (LockTight, spelling?) seemed to cure the problem with the last
>two bicycles I've owned, but loctite doesn't help with the headset on
>my current bicycle.
> 
>Does anyone know of any other way of keeping the headset locknut tight
>(until you want to loosen it)?  Does the Gorilla headset lock work?
>Does anyone know of a quality headset which doesn't have this problem?
> 


    I had the problem of a loosening headset too.  I bought a Gorilla Headlock,
bye bye problems.  It's a little expensive for a locknut, 20 clams, and it's
only like 2 bucks for a replacement locknut from the bike shop's box of old
ones.  If you can blow the 20 go for it!  You'll be glad.

     Joel Brodsky    jbrodsky@hacks.arizona.edu
                     jbrodsky@seagull.tucson.az.us
                     jbrodsky@maria.wustl.edu
                     jmbrodsk@nyx.cs.du.edu
From: brandt@schaefer.math.wisc.edu (Keith Brandt)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Subject: What to do with old Peugeot PX-10
Date: 24 Jul 92 18:04:18 GMT
Reply-To: brandt@math.wisc.edu
Distribution: na
Organization: Univ. of Wisconsin Dept. of Mathematics


I have an early seventies Peugeot PX-10 and don't know what to do with it.
The frame and fork are Reynolds 531.  Yea I know, French threads.  Late 
seventies Dura Ace brakes, Cinelli Bars and Stem.  Touring wheels.  
(I still have the original sew-up wheels as well).  Stronglight Cranks, 
cheapo Lyotard pedals.  Still rides nice.

I am moving and can't really justify taking it with me.  I have a newer
(and cheaper) touring/commuting bike and that's all I need.

Any advice (or offers) would be very appreciated.  The local bike shop offered
me $40 for it (I was crushed !).  It's a 25 inch frame.  Would a collector
give me $100 for it ??  Please send me your thoughts.

Thanks,

Keith Brandt
brandt@math.wisc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
From: feld@ccu.umanitoba.ca (Michael Feld)
Subject: Re: Helmet Safety: any reliable evidence?
Organization: University of Manitoba, Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Distribution: na
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 1992 20:53:20 GMT

In article <50hm3xn.tomk@netcom.com> tomk@netcom.com (Thomas H. Kunich) writes:
>I wasn't aware that Canadians had any civil rights. :-)
>
>Isn't this the country that has socialized medicine so that
>Canadians have to come to the U.S. (and get all their money
>taken) to get decent medical care?

Well, chuckle, no.
But you keep on voting in Republicans, and we'll bet your health stats
stay safely far worse than ours.
'Course, you do got a point -- your doctors are richer, bless 'em.
-- 
Michael Feld                         | E-mail:  <feld@ccu.umanitoba.ca>
Dept. of Philosophy                  | FAX:     (204) 261-0021
University of Manitoba               | Voice:   (204) 474-9136
Winnipeg, MB, R3T 2M8, Canada	                     
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
From: jjb@dtc.hp.com (Jim Brewer)
Subject: Re: cleaning and lubricating a chain
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 17:49:24 GMT
Organization: HP Design Technology Center, Santa Clara, CA

In article <9207290220.AA04552@hplomg.hpl.hp.com> BRANDT_JOBST/HP1900_01@HPLOMG.HPL.HP.COM writes:

>I use "Chain Lube" an M/C chain lubricant that comes in an orange 4oz
>can.  It has a volatile solvent that suspends a brown slime that looks
>something like the grease with which new chains are packaged.  It
>penetrates well, dries and is easily wiped clean with a rag, after which
>it doesn't bleed out and make a dirty chain.  It seems to work well even
>in wet weather, not vanishing entirely as do things like motor oil or
>the more common spray on's.

  What you may not realize is that motorcycles chains get hot,
sometimes damn hot.  The lubes they use are designed to work at elevated
temperatures and at ambient they often resemble contact cement.  Cold 
chain lube will collect dirt something awful.  On motocross bikes, 
the lube of choice is usually something with real low viscosity such 
as 3M or TriFlo with less adhesive properties.  Dirt will kill a chain 
faster than anything.

  You don't want the lubricant to gel up because then it won't flow into 
the small clearances where the majority of wear occurs.  It will get
squeezed out and will stay out.

  Additionally, the grease new chains are packaged with is to prevent 
corrosion during storage, not to lubricate during use.  Motorcycle
chains come with instructions indicating to lube the chain before use.

  -Jim
From: khaw@parcplace.com (Mike Khaw)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Subject: Re: what floorpump to buy?
Date: 22 Jul 92 00:52:09 GMT

In <1992Jul21.170648.234@cbnews.cb.att.com> ampe@cbnews.cb.att.com (john.e.ampe) writes:

-In article <1682B701A.MEDELMA@cms.cc.wayne.edu> MEDELMA@cms.cc.wayne.edu (Michael Edelman) writes:
->Despite the complaints of some about it being old fashioned (read: leather
->washer), I think my Silca is great. The only maintainance it ever needs
->is a couple of drops of oil in the cylinder every year, and every single
->part is avauilable for replacement- although the only thing that seems to
->wear out is the rubber insert in the valve chuck, and then only after about
->5 years minimum.

-Hmmm...  the gasket in my valve chuck wore out after six months.  The
-gasket in the main barrel wore out in 1 year.  I replaced it, but the
-replacement doesn't work at all.  Add to that a guage that is off by
-15-20 PSI, and you can see that I'm not too impressed.

->It's the easiest to use, too. Just push it on. No levers, no adapters, no
->fussy bits to get lost. Sure, it only fits Presta valves, but there's really
->no reason to use Schraders on anything other than a child's bike.

-New Silca's do have a reversable chuck that will accept Schraeder valves.

-John_Ampe@att.com

I don't know if Silca makes more than 1 model of reversible chuck, but
mine isn't so great:
	- the threads on the chuck wore out after less than 200
	  uses on Schrader valves, so now it's useless for Schrader
	  tubes: it doesn't lock onto Schrader tubes and it's
	  pretty impossible to try to hold the chuck down on the
	  valve while pumping.
	- the rubber grommet in the chuck wears out pretty fast.
	- when my presta tubes have almost no air in them (initial
	  inflation) it's just about impossible to make the chuck
	  stay on, I have to have one hand on the chuck while pumping
	  one-handed
	- the chuck tends to pop off after reaching about 110psi,
	  which is annoying when I'm usually trying to pump up to
	  115-120psi. It's also overly sensitive to how far against
	  the valve seat it's pushed in.
	- the handle is poorly shaped for hard pumping: it should be
	  thicker at the ends but instead is narrower at the ends.
All in all, possibly the only good thing about it is that the barrel
is made of Columbus tubing. I prefer my Double Shot so far: it has an
easier to use locking chuck and pumps up the tires faster than the Silca.
--
Michael Khaw	Domain=khaw@parcplace.com, UUCP=...!uunet!parcplace!khaw
ParcPlace Systems, Sunnyvale, CA	PRODUCT INFO: info@parcplace.com
From: marcs@slc.com (Marc San Soucie)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Subject: Re: Hampsten and Motorola
Keywords: Motorola in trouble?
Date: 21 Jul 92 20:57:06 GMT
Article-I.D.: slc.1992Jul21.205706.23705
Distribution: na
Organization: Servio Corp, Beaverton Oregon, US

Craig Artley (dprcxa@edp.arco.com) writes:

> How much help is he going to get from his Motorola teamates in the
> coming stages?  It seems to me that Motorola is very banged up.
> Andy Bishop, Max Sciandri,

  Ouch	       Ouch

> Steve Bauer, and Ron Kiefel

  Ouch             Ouch


> have all abandoned. That leaves Phil Anderson, Frankie Andreu, Sean Yates,
> and Michel Dernies to work for Andy.  I hope it is enough.

Ditto. Andy will have to keep a close eye on Carrera, who can be counted on 
to do some attacking yet.

    Marc San Soucie
    Portland, Oregon
    marcs@slc.com
From: ccsdhd@gdt.bath.ac.uk (Neanderthal Man)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Subject: Re: Avocet 30: mounting trans. ring
Date: 30 Jul 92 13:09:25 GMT
Organization: Antiques R'Us

In article <63004@cup.portal.com> sbixby@cup.portal.com (Steven W Bixby) writes:
>>>>The transmitter ring for the Avocet 30 has three little tabs which snap over
>>>>the front hub.  Unfortunately, I have 32 spoke wheels ...
>>>
>>>Avocet makes a four pronged version that fits quite nicely on 32 spoke hubs.
>>>It's on my wheel right over there in the corner of my office ...see?
>>>Sorry I don't know the part number, but it is available.
>>>
>>
>>This is puzzling.  I've heard it before.
>>
>>All wheels have a multiple of four spokes.
>>
>>Why isn't the four pronged version standard?
>
>Easy - 36 spokes, divided by 2 is 18, which is NOT divisible by 4 very well.
>By 3 is pretty good.  So it just snaps on.
>
>32/2=16, divisible by four, so 4-pin rings fit.
>
>Easy?  ;-) ;-)

I'm not sure that a retrogressive techno-luddite like me ought to sit
here in silence with a quiet smile on my lips.  Especially as
speaking up will publically earn me the label "schadenfreunde",
coupled with a few pithy adjectives.  I've always liked the word
"schadenfreunde", I mutter it everywhere I go.

All this heart-wrenching agonising over multi-pronged problems is a
matter of amusement to me.  My trusty three-pronged sensor fits
neatly onto lots of my wheels.  It doesn't matter whether they have
36, 32, 28 or 24 spokes.  It is the same silky fit I get when Hardy
Amies cuts my three-piece suits.  It won't be long before he gets the
lycra cycling shorts to the same standard.

I have, of course, had the foresight to continue using my trusty
Campagnolo large-flange Record hubs.  The three-prong sensor fits
very neatly into the cut-outs in these hubs.  If I were a
megalomaniac, I'd believe that the Avocet engineers designed these
sensors especially for me.  I've thus avoided all these problems
encountered by you dedicated followers of fashion who have been lured
by seductive small-flange hubs.

... Evolution in action ?  Humbug !  Sometimes progress isn't ...
-- 
       Neanderthal Man  --  Antiques R'Us
From: rct@fulcrum.bt.co.uk (Richard Taylor)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Subject: Re: Amazing Stories
Date: 31 Jul 92 11:42:28 GMT
Organization: Fulcrum Communications

In article <rpj.712545659@fir> tp923021@fir.canberra.edu.au (Ben Elliston) writes:
>him .. armed with bloody nunchuckers!  "My God!", I thought!

Ummmm, what's a nunchucker?

Up 'til then I was fascinated, but I think the punchline's in Aussie...

Translate for a limey...

============================================================================
Richard Taylor                 DoD #981               (rct@fulcrum.bt.co.uk)
"Gentlemen, starta your engines... 2 minutes, to the hills." Massimo Laverda
============================================================================
Fulcrum Communications Ltd., Fordrough Lane, Birmingham, B9 5LD, ENGLAND.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
From: tomk@netcom.com (Thomas H. Kunich)
Subject: Re: cleaning and lubricating a chain
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 92 22:30:31 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)

I use parafin. Works good, particularly if you use a non-shimano
hyperglide chain that you can break off easily and re-do every two
months.

I have the can of parafin sitting on an old iron placed in a bench vice
and set to rayon or low or something like that. (essentially the lowest
setting.) I 'flemish' the chain into two rolls, place one over the 
other and set them in the parafin while it's still hard. I have attached
a stiff wire to the open link already.

After the wax melts I leave it there for 20 minutes or so to be sure that
there is good penetration. I then lift it out and drain it back into the 
can. I then hang the chain to cool. There is some overage that breaks
off as soon as you start to use the chain. The chain runs _very_
quietly for a couple of months.

There used to be a company over by the San Francisco airport that would
spray and bake on a dry lubricant on anything you wanted. After it
was done it lasted virtually forever. Can't remember their name but
I'd like to try that on bicycle chain sometime.
From: jbrodsky@oolong.hacks.arizona.edu (cool flowin gotta keep goin...)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Subject: Re: cleaning and lubricating a chain
Date: 25 Jul 92 20:44:29 GMT
Reply-To: jbrodsky@oolong.hacks.arizona.edu
Distribution: world,local
Organization: UofA Hardware And Computing Knowledge Society
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.4-a4

In article <x2hmm9_.bob@netcom.com>, bob@netcom.com (Robert Becker) writes...
>Has anybody had any experience with a lithium based lubricant?


  I use it to lube alot of stuff when I rebuild things.  What'd you have in
mind?

   Joel Brodsky        jbrodsky@hacks.arizona.edu
                       jbrodsky@seagull.tucson.az.us
                       jbrodsky@maria.wustl.edu
                       jmbrodsk@nyx.cs.du.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
From: feld@ccu.umanitoba.ca (Michael Feld)
Subject: Olympic gold for Lotus bike
Organization: University of Manitoba, Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1992 17:41:23 GMT

My local paper tells me that a revolutionary British bike -- monocoque
resin, molded, cantilevered, designed in Britain by a hobbyist and refined by Lotus
-- was responsible for a gold-winning record ride.  Unhappily, no
picture accompanied the article (and the sports editor, telephoned,
said she could not find one.)
So: anyone know how I could get to see what the thing looks like?
-- 
Michael Feld                         | E-mail:  <feld@ccu.umanitoba.ca>
Dept. of Philosophy                  | FAX:     (204) 261-0021
University of Manitoba               | Voice:   (204) 474-9136
Winnipeg, MB, R3T 2M8, Canada	                     
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
From: mccurdy@bestsd.sdsu.edu (McCurdy M.)
Subject: Re: Help! Knee Pain
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.4-b1  
Organization: San Diego State University - Dept. of Redundancy Dept.
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 18:01:00 GMT

In article <1992Jul28.153118.16936@oracle.pnl.gov>, d3a132@pnl.gov                       writes...
>>>
>>The main cause of knee pain and damage in new riders is pedaling
>>in too high a gear. New riders are often surprised to find that
> 
>The other major problem is caused by incorrect fit on the
>bike.  You need to find a Pro-shop with equipment like the
>fit-kit to position you on the bike.  This should take

But I think the main problem with this new rider is that he is riding 
daily, for two hours a day in a hilly area. Sound like too much too soon?
Way , way too much.

Mike



Mike McCurdy			Disclaimer:
VAX Systems Management		     
San Diego State University		"Everything I say may be wrong."
mccurdy@bestsd.sdsu.edu
From: BRANDT_JOBST/HP1900_01@hplomg.hpl.hp.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Subject: Re: Barry Tompkins (Was: Re: ESPN & TdF)
Date: 24 Jul 92 02:36:22 GMT

Vlad writes:

> Given the fact that Lemond is of French origin (LeMonde), I would not be
> too critical of the French pronunciation of his name...

The French (and other Europeans) find that Lemond, being spelled the way
it is should be pronounced Americain as in 'Grig Lemmon'.  Were it spelled
leMond they may have done otherwise but in France as in Italy it is Mr.
Lemmon or Limmon in the same vein as Americans who say 'Frahnze' in an
attempt to do it justice.  That's why we say Munich instead of attempting
Muenchen with sounds that do not exist in the English mouth.

> As far as pronouncing France with an "ae", that's standard Midwestern
> pronunciation, isn't it?

Since the vowels of the French language and others are not any part of
English I find it tedious to pronounce words with non-English sounds
in their native language.  That goes for people who insist on pronouncing
my name as 'Brah-nt' or 'Bru-nt' instead of 'Brant' or towns like Finhaut
in attempted French when 'fin hote' conveys the name to another English
speaker unmistakably.

jobst_brandt@hplabs.hp.com
From: pamela@keps.kodak.com (Pamela Blalock)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Subject: Re: Regina Freewheel problems
Date: 31 Jul 92 05:32:19 GMT
Organization: Kodak Electronic Printing Systems

Following up on my own post here ...

I went to the bike shop this evening and we discovered the problems.
First, since my replacement mavic rim had finally come in, and the
wheel had been rebuilt, we put the Regina on this wheel and tried it
and it worked perfectly. So then Peter pulled out his calipers and
started making various measurements and found that their was a 1mm
difference in axle length in the Phil Wood Hub wheels and the Suzue
hub wheels. The Phil Wood complied with industry standard according to
Peter. Nothing a little 1mm spacer and redishing the wheel wouldn't
fix.

Then we started looking at the backs of various freewheels and
discovered some interesting differences in the height of the freewheel
body. The Regina and the Sachs that I had just removed differed by 1
mm, BUT the newer SACHS that Peter had in the shop was just like the
Regina. 

Anyway, I have both rear wheels back together and shifting ever so 
smoothly again with the Regina freewheels.

Now, about the wheels. After our disasterous trip to Quebec, we
noticed an eyelet coming loose on our new Mavic 261 rims (these are
the wheels with the Phil Wood Hubs) I took it back to Peter, and he
said he would replace the rim. Unfortunately he was out of rims and
his stock just came in yesterday. When he took the old rim off half of
the eyelets fell out! He has a call into Mavic now! The front wheel
still appears fine, and he promised me that the wheel would not
collapse if an eyelet came loose. We will be keeping a very close
*eye* on these rims now. If I see any movement at all, we'll have new
rims instantly! (Good warranty)





-- 
Pamela Blalock                                     pamela@keps.kodak.com
Kodak Electronic Printing Systems, Inc             7 down, 5 to go!
164 Lexington Road, Billerica, MA 01821-3984       
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
From: marcelg@r-node.gts.org (Michel)
Subject: Re: Bar ends for MTB
Organization: R-node Public Access.
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 22:13:55 GMT

Cheryl Lynn Lavertu <LAVERTU@MAINE.MAINE.EDU> writes:

>I own a Jamis Quest hybrid, and just bought some bar ends to
>add some variable hand positions, since I sometimes ride
>60 plus miles at a time.  I've seen bar ends installed on
>the MTBs ridden by our university police, and theirs are
>installed at a 90 degree angle to the ground (straight up).

I can't imagine that this would be a comfortable position.

>   The instructions that came with my bar ends suggest that
>a position 20 degrees from parallel to the bars is the best.
>Does anybody else have bar ends on their MTB-type handlebars
>and if so, what position have you found most comfortable?

I just got a set of bar-ends for my MTB.  The handlebars are the
standard 60cm 6-degree-bend bars.  I set up the bar-ends so that they're
pointing towards the centre of the bike, and sloped up about 20 degrees
from horizontal.  My check was to shake my hand to get it into its most
natural position, and then make sure that the bar-end duplicated that
position.  This was done while on the bike, so I was in the normal
riding position.

Hope this helps.

--
 Michel Goudeseune                       marcelg@zooid.guild.org
         Love yourself - or nobody else can.  -- Madonna