HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: neilf@delfin.com (Neil Frank)
Subject: Re: CRANK PULLING PROBLEM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Organization: Delfin Systems
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 19:02:30 GMT

dhm1@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (DANIEL HILL MCCAULEY) writes:
: 
:     because the cranks are shot beyond belief.  I got one crank off but the
:     other side (side with chainrings) the threads inside the crank where the
:     crankpuller should screw in are totally stripped, by some unknown reason.

Talk to a hardware or your local bicycle shop and ask them to use a thread
tap to create new threads.  This should give you the ability to remove
the chain ring side of the crank assembly....  Just make sure that the tap 
used matches the thread pitch of your crankpuller....

-nlf-
-- 
Neil Frank		Delfin Systems		408-748-1200
neilf@delfin.com	Santa Clara, CA.
--              Wisdom is Gained Through Experience,            -- 
--        Experience is Gained Through Error.... "Unknown"      --
From: crauel@math.uni-sb.de (Hans Crauel)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: looking for DT Swiss address
Date: 17 Dec 92 14:49:44 GMT
Organization: Computational Linguistics Dept., U Saarbruecken
NNTP-Posting-Host: briggs.math.uni-sb.de

H.ZIERKE@BI-LINK.owl.de (Hans-Joachim Zierke) writes:

 () A Sanyo Dynapower is about 25% efficient, the bottom bracket dynamos 
 () of Union and Soubitez 35-40%, the new Union 9001 40-45%.  Engineers 
 () working on this told me that the borderline for hub generators might 
 () be 70%, but the DT hub will not reach this (a 70% efficient hub dynamo 
 () will always be bigger than the DT).

Thank you for this information. Do you also have information on the 
efficiency of the NORDLICHT and the AXA tyre-wall (or which is the 
proper notion?) generators, and would you be willing to provide it 
on this board? Thank you in advance. 

			Hans Crauel	crauel@math.uni-sb.de
			Saarbruecken

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: johnr@bohra.cpg.oz.au (John Reid)
Subject: Re: CRANK PULLING PROBLEM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Organization: Computer Power Software Group Pty Ltd
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 22:12:05 GMT

sjlt@leland.Stanford.EDU (Sean Lev-Tov) writes:

>In article <1992Dec14.050719.86107@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu> dhm1@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (DANIEL HILL MCCAULEY) writes:
>>
>>    I have a BIG problem.  I am trying to take the cranks off an old frame
>>    because the cranks are shot beyond belief.  I got one crank off but the
>>    other side (side with chainrings) the threads inside the crank where the
>>    crankpuller should screw in are totally stripped, by some unknown reason.
>>    Maybe a bike shop pulled a fast one years ago and replaced the cap nice
>>    and tight so that I couldn't see the damage.  Well my question is:  How
>>    should I go about taking this crank off without damaging the bottom
>>    bracket shell.  I don't give a damn about the cranks, I'll break them if I
>>    have to.  I already tried getting the fixed cup off, but failed.  I also
>>    don't care about the bottom bracket.  All suggestions welcomed.
>>    Thanks!!!!!!!
>>
>>                                                -Dan

>	I had the same problem earlier this year.  A friend lent me an
>	automotive tool called a pulley-puller.  It kind of has an adjustable
>	claw that pulls on the spider of the crank while a screw in the
>	center pushes on the spindle.  The screw was too big and I had to
>	put a narrower bolt between the spindle and the tool.  I ended up
>	breaking off one of the spider arms, and was then able to get a
>	good grip and pull the crank off without damage to the frame or
>	bottom bracket.  Maybe you could check at a car-service place for
>	one of these tools.

>	Sean Lev-Tov
>	sjlt@leland.stanford.edu


There is a standard tool for removing cranks form the axle. Mine cost about
a pound sterling some ten years ago. It screws into the end of the crank,
and a nut forces the crank off the axle.

You can also remove the axle assembly yourself, but this is trickier.
You can get cycle tools for this purpose. A French firm called VAR used to
make them. There are three ways of threading the axle into the bottom
backet shell. Two of these involve different threads form each side
(English and French bottom brackets - they have different threads). Italian
threaded bottom brackets have a straight through thread, and the axle can
be screwed out from one side. You should establish what is fitted in your
case. Some care is needed, as the bottom bracket shell is a little fragile,
and it is also a fundamental structural part of your frame.
--
John Reid                                   ACSnet : johnr@bohra.cpg.oz.au
CP Software Export Pty Ltd,                 Phone  : +61 3 823 0222
19 Cato Street, Hawthorn 3123 Australia     Fax    : +61 3 824 8068
ACN 006 640 133
From: jbrandt@hplred.HPL.HP.COM (Jobst Brandt)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 01:01:27 GMT
Subject: Flats from Fine Wires
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories, Palo Alto, CA
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech

I often hear of riders who are getting flats from tiny wires and I
have had the same problem.  If you look carefully, you will notice
that these wires are stainless and that they come from steel belted
car tires.  With the state of the economy and the prevalence of
steel belted tires, more of these are being driven beyond the rubber
to expose the belt.  These wires are found everywhere cars go and as
I mentioned, the only flat I got in the Alps was in France from just
such a wire.  So now I can say that beer cigaretts and Michelin
cause flats.  Beer bottles in the winter when you can't recognize
the broken beer bottles, cigarette induced thorns in the summer
because roadside grass abatement to prevent fires from smokers
prepares barren soil for puncture vine (terrestris horribilis).
This plant will not grow where anything else grows.  It needs barren
arid soil.

jobst_brandt@hplabs.hp.com
From: king@reasoning.com (Dick King)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: 1 Re: Vistalight LED
Date: 15 Dec 92 01:57:29 GMT
Organization: Reasoning Systems, Inc., Palo Alto, CA

In article <1992Dec12.000601.1@research.ptt.nl> walvdrk_r@research.ptt.nl (Kees van der Wal) writes:
>In article <1992Dec8.151400.20597@schbbs.mot.com>, CMSC28@maccvm.corp.mot.com
>(Mark Hickey) writes: 
>
>>>> estimated time of use of 30 hours.  It now only gives off a dim glimmr
>>>> when I switch it on and within minutes there is no light at all.
>
>>>Why not use rechargeable NiCd cells instead? They contain 500-700mAh, so at
>>>least 30hours before recharging is required.
>
>> One reason is the discharge "curve" of a NiCad vs an alkaline.  While
>> the alkaline will "fade away", the NiCad will pretty much run out of
>> gas quickly.  If your night rides tend to be fairly long, you might
>> find out the hard way that you just became invisible!
>
>If the rides tend to be "fairly long" it won't make too much difference whether 
>the batteries "fade away" or run out quickly. And a 30-hour commute is more 
>than "fairly long" ;-)

That's not the point.

People don't keep logs accurate enough to recharge their 30 hour batteries at,
say, 25 hours [although they could, and this is long enough so that a
once-a-week recharge ought to be plenty].

The question is, how much time do you have after symptoms start to show before
you go dark?

With NiCads, the answer is "minutes".  Not good.

With lead acid or alkaline, the answer is "hours" on the VistaLites.  Fine,
probably. 

-dk
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen)
Subject: Re: Rear Brake problem on ATX-760
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Distribution: bnr
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 92 08:09:39 GMT

In article <1992Dec11.201215.390@ObjecTime.on.ca> peter@helix.ObjecTime.on.ca (Peter Epstein) writes:
>I second the point about rear brakes.  When the going gets tough, the front
>brakes are your lifeline.  Too much rear brake and you'll fishtail.  Too
>much front brake is hard to have.

locking up the rear wheel and letting it slide through a turn is
a known technique, though it really rips up the trail.
it's not difficult to control a bike with a locked rear wheel, as long
as you don't turn too suddenly (in that case, you will start sliding
sideways a lot).  on the other hand, i regard a locked front wheel
as a crash in progress.  maybe the experts do it all the time, but
i'll pass.  it's still true that the front brake supplies the bulk
of the braking power, but i'd rather lock up my rear wheel than my
front, so i end up using all of the rear brake before i start pushing
the limits on the front brake.

-teddy
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tthiel@cs.uiuc.edu (Terry Thiel)
Subject: Re: advice wanted: seat adjustment
Organization: University of Illinois, Dept. of Comp. Sci., Urbana, IL
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 14:15:28 GMT

pcbk1@cbnewsj.cb.att.com (bryan.s.katz) writes:
>  I got a new bike a little while ago (an RB1), and I'm still adjusting to it.

Good bike.

>  I've noticed that when I hit a hill, I get a bit more power by sliding 
>  back a tiny bit on the seat.  I didn't notice this with my old bike, and
>  I'm wondering if this is common, or whether this indicates I need to adjust
>  my seat again (back or up).  I'm comfortable otherwise, and I'm tired of
>  micro-adjustments....
>  Advice?  Is this common?

Yes, in fact it is a reccomended way of climbing.
-Terry
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: rlewis@muskwa.ucs.ualberta.ca (Robert Lewis)
Subject: Re: cyclocomputer questions
Organization: University Of Alberta, Edmonton Canada
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 18:52:53 GMT

royce@mdcbbs.com (Royce D. Myers EDS/Unigraphics) writes:

>BTW, it has an input for a finger PRM.  Should I ever find this
>attachment, should I blow $30 on it?

My experience with finger (or ear) PRMs is that they are not very
accurate.

Robert M. Lewis			rlewis@muskwa.ucs.ualberta.ca
Department of Sociology
University of Alberta
Edmonton, Alberta
Canada
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: ezag637@chpc.utexas.edu (Steve Manifold)
Subject: Re: Suspension Debate
Organization: The University of Texas System CHPC
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 92 20:26:12 GMT

In article <82020003@hpcc01.corp.hp.com>, asberry@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Kevin Asberry) writes:
>   I don't have a lot of info on me, but I don't get to read notes very
> often, and I didn't want to forget to mention this nifty piece of
> engineering/machining.  
>   The day before Thanksgiving, I went into a local shop to ask some 
> questions about the Alsop Frankenstem.  Well, they didn't carry that
> particular product, but the salesman pulled out a new suspension fork
> from under the counter.  They had just recieved the new AMP fork for 
> evaluation.  Now this fork really caught my interest.
>   I went back a week later to get a report on the fork from the
> salesmen.  The guy I talked to said it was good for absorbing smaller
> shocks, and impacts from the front of the tire, but that it was to
> stiff on dropoffs.  This is apparently due to it's unique design. I
> haven't ridden any suspended bikes, so I have no firsthand experience.
> Others will have to try it for themselves, because it still seems like
> a smart way to go.
>   For more info, the October issue of Mountainbike Action has an 
> article on suspension with a short review of the AMP fork.  BTW,
> this fork incorporates a ridgid fork with a cantilever setup between
> the fork crown and the head tube.  It uses a combination of coil spring,
> elastomer bumper, and hydraulic damper, and looks great.  The early
> evaluation I got from the salesman was just that, an EARLY evaluation.
> Check it out for yourselves, and post your reactions (that's if you
> can find one yet.)
> 
> Kevin Asberry
> 
> 

Sounds like the so-called "springer" front end on old Harleys.  They didn't
work very well for large bumps either, and weren't dampened, resulting in
a somewhat bouncy ride that took getting used to.  But, they were (are?)
much sought after by the chop crowd for their cool looks.
From: jwgst2+@pitt.edu (James W Gourgoutis)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Tubing  Questions...
Date: 16 Dec 92 16:53:15 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Pittsburgh

Hi!  Could somebody please post or email me a list of the different grades of
Columbus tubing?  Please include Cromor and Tenax.  What types of Columbus
Tubing are comparable to, say Reynolds 531, etc.?  I have been told that
Cromor and Tenax are pretty much bottom-of-the-barrel tubing, but are these
types of tubes still high-quality?  How do they rank against different brands?

Also, I have noticed that mid-range bikes (like Trek, etc) are no longer
made of Reynolds 531 tubing.  I've seen alot of older Treks made from this 
stuff, and even old PX-10s from Peugeot were 531.  Why aren't there many
bikes made from this tubing anymore?  It seems only small-quantity custom 
frame builders make 531 frames anymore.  Is this true?  What's up?  

A friend of mine has an early 80's Schwinn Voyager (is this the one that every-
one raves about?), made from generic double-butted 4130 cro-mo tubing.  The
bike seems very light for its price range.  Is this good tubing?

The reason that I am asking all of these questions is that I am currently
pondering a "dream project", you know, those projects that we would undergo
if we had the time and (most importantly) the money.  Therefore, all of this
is just speculation.  Anyway, I can get a Schwinn Tempo frame (mid 80's, I 
guess) for $75 new from a shop (with fork).  I was told that these normally
go for around $150.  I'm just wondering how good of a deal this really is.
My perfect road bike (besides an Eddy Merckx Team Motorola!:-)) would be 
something simple:  a good mid-priced frame built with 105 components.  So, is
the Tempo (made from Columbus Tenax) worthy of 105 components?
Colorado Cyclist and other catalogs have
complete 105 grouppos, complete with EVERYTHING (except pedals) needed to build up a frame/fork
for around $550, so +$75 =$625.  I can get a Performance Vitesse for $599, 
which is probably good just for the parts alone.  And, this bike comes with     105 clipless pedals, a $90 value!  How do the two frames
compare?  What do you think?  Should I keep dreaming?

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
James Gourgoutis       				   
Mechanical Engineering                                O   
University of Pittsburgh                           _ /__,     
e-mail me at:  JWGST2@unixd.cis.pitt.edu          (_) /(_) 
	       or JWGST2@vms.cis.pitt.edu
Thanks!           			   "Why am I so late?  It took me 
					    25 minutes to decide which bike
					    to ride!" 
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-       
--
From: jskaggs@slate.mines.colorado.edu (JoJo was a man...)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Front Brake Usage
Date: 14 Dec 92 06:00:48 GMT
Organization: Colorado School of Mines

In article <1992Dec14.121748.60778@qut.edu.au> heard@qut.edu.au writes:
>In article <1460041@hplred.HPL.HP.COM>, jbrandt@hplred.HPL.HP.COM 
>  (Jobst Brandt) writes:
>> Ronno writes:
>> 
>>> In my day the bolt at the top of the stem (the one you tighten so
>>> that the handlebars don't turn independently of the front wheel)
>>> was called the "ball tearer", with obvious implications for what
>>> happens if you go over the handlebars.
>> 
>> It's nice to see that old fables never die.  The idea that the bar
>> stem will damage ones sex organs is a theoretical one that seems to
>> impress every bicyclist who gave it a thought.  On the other hand,
>> no modification of this apparently dangerous part of the bicycle has
>> been seriously undertaken in a century of development.  In fact the
>> likelihood of an injury of this type is diminishingly small.  There
>> are many accounts of riders going over the front none of whom in
>> my experience have struck the bar stem.  I am sure someone can find
>> and exception but it is rare.
>> 
>> jobst_brandt@hplabs.hp.com
>
>
>Take care
>Ronno
	
	Then again, I recently saw an ad in MBA for a pad for the top of
your stem, in case you do experience the "ball-tear" crash.  It's called
the 'Nard Gaurd'.  No Kidding...


-Joe
jsakggs@slate.mines.colorado.edu


-- 
These opinions belong to me.  Any re-broadcast or re-transmission of these
opinions without the express written consent of the NJF (National Joe
foundation) is a violation of applicable copyright laws.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: neilf@delfin.com (Neil Frank)
Subject: Re: CRANK PULLING PROBLEM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Organization: Delfin Systems
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 16:47:23 GMT

neilf@delfin.com (Neil Frank) writes:

: As in taking the fixed cup off with a vice, it sounds good to me since the 
: fixed cup is on the OPPOSITE side of the BB as the chain rings (the side
: which was stripped).... Hence, there should be no problem with the crank 
: arm hendering placement within the vice grips...

Before anybody flames this statement, I just wanted to defend myself 
by saying that it is has been a long day, unfortunately it just started...
It seems that I misread the orginal post and got very confused..............

-nlf-
-- 
Neil Frank		Delfin Systems		408-748-1200
neilf@delfin.com	Santa Clara, CA.
--              Wisdom is Gained Through Experience,            -- 
--        Experience is Gained Through Error.... "Unknown"      --
From: pardo@cs.washington.edu (David Keppel)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Chain wear (WAS: Chain link fracture)
Date: 19 Dec 92 17:56:22 GMT
Organization: Computer Science & Engineering, U. of Washington, Seattle

lloyd@leland.Stanford.EDU (William Koenig Lloyd) writes:
>[I'd call a 4,000km chain pretty old, I replace mine @2500km.]

Chain wear is measured in elongation of the chain, not in distance
traveled.  You can easily get more than an order of magnitude of
difference in distance traveled before proper replacement, it depends
on your riding conditions, chain care habits, and so on.

A new chain measures 12" for a dozen link pairs (one set each of wide
and narrow link plates).  At 12-1/8" it is time to consider
replacement.  At 12-1/4", the cogs and chainrings are being damaged.

		;-D on  ( The chain care beagle )  Pardo
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen)
Subject: Re: Rear Brake problem on ATX-760
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Distribution: bnr
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 92 00:12:29 GMT


i recently posted an article stating that locking up the rear
wheel was a known technique.  i further stated that i preferred
to lock up the rear wheel before the front wheel, since i was
not comfortable trying to control a bike with a locked front wheel.
a reader, who shall remain nameless, saw fit to respond to me thusly:
>Dear Squid,
[threat deleted]
>The style of riding you advocate is one of the main reasons that
>so many trails are being closed here in norcal.
...
>Thanks for helping us lose trails, squid.

i responded that i was only saying that when i braked hard,
i preferred to reach the limit on the rear wheel first.  i 
only noted that it was a "known technique" and further that it
"really rips up the trail".  i did not advocate using this technique
as a way to get down trails.  as a matter of fact, i also disapprove
of people who routinely do so.

so, to stave off any further flames from people with
deficient reading comprehension, i wanted to make it clear
that i was not advocating using this technique to get down
trails.

-teddy
From: jbrandt@hplred.HPL.HP.COM (Jobst Brandt)
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 18:00:15 GMT
Subject: Re: Re: 7 Re: Fluorescent bike headlight?
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories, Palo Alto, CA
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech

Richard Foulk writes:

> I can buy a foot-long battery-powered fluorescent today that I can
> lash to my handlebars and achieve better all around performance
> than from my Vistalite.  It will illuminate the road better and
> get me seen by motorists far more readily.  It would look a little
> weird, but it's tempting.

Well so what?  Just go out and buy one and stop telling me how my
scientific arguments are all wet.  I don't see these things on the
market and major manufacturers are working hard at making a useful
bicycle light.  Go ahead, show 'em how it's done.

jobst_brandt@hplabs.hp.com
Xref: sparky rec.bicycles.tech:2716 rec.bicycles.misc:1585
From: ccastmm@prism.gatech.EDU (Mike Marler)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech,rec.bicycles.misc
Subject: Dear Santa: bring Mtn. Bike
Date: 16 Dec 92 18:49:49 GMT
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology

Due to a recent gift of some cash I am now in the market for a Mtn. Bike.
I am looking for a bike to be strickly used off-road that is in the 
range of $800-1000.  Any suggestions?  Any to avoid?  I have already
tried a few other people's bikes on trips ranging up to 20 miles and
have "tested" a few bikes at the dealer, but will not name any brands/models.
I just want to hear some other suggestions.

Thanks, Mike
-- 
Mike Marler                        | "Saving every nickel to spend on my
Internet: ccastmm@prism.gatech.edu |  my next set of thrills..." -somebody
Disclaimer: These views are not and should not be viewed as those of OIT.
From: TOM@SLACVM.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Cuts in Tires
Date: 14 Dec 92 15:48:43 GMT
Article-I.D.: SLACVM.92349.074843TOM
Organization: Stanford Linear Accelerator Center

Is there a way to repair cuts in tires?, Is it safe to ride with cuts? And
will they grow over time?  I have a cut the goes across my tire, looks like
glass got me.  I'm worried that it may split open when corning or when I brake
at high speeds.
                                             -Tom
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: richard@pegasus.com (Richard Foulk)
Subject: Re: How to cold-set rear triangle to wider dropout width?
Organization: Pegasus,  Honolulu
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 92 13:06:47 GMT

>Here's an untried idea for speading the rear triangle,  how about placing an
>old axle in the dropouts with bolts on the inside of the stays,  i.e. being
>pressed together.  Then using a spanner to gradually move one of the bolts
>towards an end,  thus spreading the stays evenly?
>
>There's probably a hundred reasons why this wouldn't work, but maybe it does -
>it seems better than just pulling them apart with sheer grunt.
>

(I assume you mean nuts where you said bolts.)

I don't see how it will cause the stays to bend evenly.  Whichever stay
happens to be weakest will bend first, without more pressure points on
the frame you won't be controlling that.

Interesting idea though.  Sounds very controllable.  And maybe you'll
get lucky and they will bend evenly.

Would the strain on the dropouts be acceptable?

Oh, and an old axle might not be big enough.  I think you'll need some
threaded rod or something.  You have to move the stays past their final
shape since they'll spring back some.

I agree with the sentiment that there must be some semi-ingenious way
to do this that will make finesse less important and success more of
a sure thing.

-- 
Richard Foulk		richard@pegasus.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech