From: jlacoss@isi.edu (Jeff LaCoss)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.misc
Subject: Re: Wheel truing I need advice
Date: 14 Sep 92 02:15:39 GMT
Reply-To: jlacoss@paddington.isi.edu (Jeff LaCoss)
Organization: USC-Information Sciences Institute
Summary: Long, but I think it's all here


 I've built a LOT of wheels for different applications: track, road
(high-flange, low-flange, radial, x2, x2/radial, x3, x3/radial, x4),
mountain bikes, etc. I have a really simple method that can be used by
anyone with common sense (hint: remember what Heinlein said about
"common sense?").

 For truing wheels you need:
 1 bike with straight frame
 1 Snap-on or Proto 1/8" open-end wrench (looks cool on the key-ring)
 1 roll Scotch-brand adhesive tape
 1 toothpick

 with experience you can add the following:
 1 six-pack beer of your choice

 Now then, The Method:
  - strip the wheel to be trued and clean the outermost edge if it is
    covered with sew-up glue/track shellac/etc
  - put the wheel in the drop-out and make DAMN sure it's in all the
    way and the axle aligned the same as a true wheel would be.
  - spin wheel to discover nature of problem (not true, egg-shaped)
  - stick tape across fork/chainstays so that spinning wheel nudges it
    occasionally. Add toothpick as truing gauge
  -	if (!true && !round) {
		tighten the nipple under the high spot, on the most
		out-of-true side 1/2 turn
	}
	else if (!true && round) {
		tighten the nipple on the most out-of true side 1/2 turn
		loosen the nipples on the 2 adgacent spokes <1/4 turn
	}
	else if (true && !round) {
		a) tighten 2 adjacent spokes under the high spot 1/2
		   turn, or
		b) tighten the spoke under the high point 1/2 turn AND
		   tighten the 2 adjacent spokes 1/4 - 1/3 turn
	}
   - spin the wheel:
	if (true && round) {
		reseat spokes: set axle on floor, place hands at
			opposing sides of rim, and _gently_ press.
			Popping and tinkling sounds should ensue.
			Work hands around rim, maintaining grip at
			opposite sides. Turn wheel over & repeat.
		check to see if wheel still true
		return(tools)
		exit(done)
	}
	else if (true && !round) move tape inward
	goto A /* egad! a goto! */

 I've found that the way I do wheels is to take a rational approach to
making the suckers ROUND first. That is, if you follow the above with
an eye toward roundness, but balance the spoke tension to pull the
sheel toward true, you should do OK. Unless spokes are REALLY loose,
never give the nipple more than 1/2 turn. Pluck the spokes on a couple
new bikes to see what the appropriate tension range is.

 I'm not a mechanical genius. I've messed up a few wheels in my time.
However, after a few times through I could build ("to build" means to
make from a pile of parts) a wheel in less than an hour.

 To my knowledge there aren't any good books on spoking wheels: the
pictures a novice needs are not distinct enough. That is where I
screwed up a couple wheels: trying to figure out how to do the lacing.
I also had problems at first because I didn't know about the reseating
step at first: the spokes just loosen up again.

 Sometimes spokes go loose for no apparent reason; you can use a small
drop of Loktite "Blue" on each spoke to put a stop to that. (Blue is
supposed to keep things from un-spinning. Loktite Red makes it hard to
take apart.)

 The comment about squaring the axle comes from experiencing a total
loss of control that resulted in a near head-on crash: front wheels on
steep head-angle frames have to be pretty correct. The friend that I
learned wheel-building with built my front with a slight "dish" a la
the rear wheel. If a front wheel is dished due to the axle being
off-kilter, and the owner "corrects" by skewing the axle in the
dropouts, well, look out!

 Store-bought wheels may be economical, but I like the craft aspects
of doing things myself. I also like the security that comes from
knowing that in a pinch I can actually do something with the spare
spokes and cluster tool (need a gas station vise for that one) that I
carry.

	Jeff
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.misc,ottawa.general