HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds) writes:
>
>The second uses a broad spring on the infeed table to force the wood up 
>against a "bed" that is bolted to the jointer above the knives. You
>adjust the thickness by adding or removing shims from the bolts, thus
>raising or lowering the bed. With heavy boards you'd need a strong spring,
>there's no power feed so the results may be inconsistent, and bolting and
>unbolting to add/remove shims has got be a painful way to adjust thickness.
>
>The books also discuss jigs that enable face jointing using a thickness
>planer. These may be useful even if you have a jointer, since chances
>are your planer is considerably wider.
>----------

   You might want to check out James Krenov's "A Cabinetmaker's Notebook".

   He uses a "Jointer-Planer", which is really a jointer with a hand
   crank adjustable attachement that presses the work into the blades.
   He prefers handfeeding the work.

   This is quite similar to the jigs I have seen described.  I set something
   like it up last night using homemade jig.  I understand why he likes it.
   feeding the work isn't too hard, you have infinite control over the
   speed, and you end up with nice parallel faces.

   It isn't as convenient as planing, and yes, on my 6" jointer, it only
   planes a 6" board, but then, I think out of hundreds of boards I have
   bought, maybe two or three were wider than 6", and I ended up ripping
   them down smaller anyway.

   So, now I have Bernard Maas on my side, saying a jointer is an essential
   woodworking tool, and also James Krenov, in addition to Tag Frid who
   also uses his jointer as a planer.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: gregt@hfglobe.intel.com (Greg Tollefson)
Subject: Re: How to get a square edge
Organization: Intel Corporation
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 20:41:39 GMT

carrd@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com writes:


>I've run into this problem alot when dealing with long pieces of wood
>(> 5') and thought I'd ask the wisdom of the net.  The problem I refer to
>is getting a true edge on a board when the deflection of the warp is 
>only about 1/2 - 1 inch over the entire length.  The bed on my jointer
>(Jet 6") is too short to detect the curve, thus all I end up with is a 
>curve on a smaller width board.  

>Anyone come up with a slick way around this problem?

One method that I have used is to take a straight board (I have a nice 10'
piece of redwood that I keep just for this) and place is against the fence
of your table saw.  Take the warped board and place it cup side next to the
straight board.  You then rip the bow side of the warped board straight. 
This will give you a nice straight edge.  Flip this edge next to the fence
and rip the cup side straignt.  The straight board acts as an extended fence
on the table saw.  Hope this helps.  


>Thanks in advance.

>Dave

Greg T.




>   
>      
-- 
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 28 Dec 1992 19:39:00 EST
From:         Jim Morgan <JMORGAN@BROWNVM.BITNET>
Subject:      Directory of mail order sources wanted

   A short while ago, a directory of mail order tool sources was posted
on the list, which I neglected to save.  Could someone please repost the
directory.  Thanks.

Jim Morgan
Brown University
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: tomj@monster.apd.saic.com (Tom Johnson)
Subject: Sharpening saw blades
Organization: SAIC, Reston, VA
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 15:17:17 GMT

I was recently reading a back issue of WOOD, in which there was a one-liner
about sharpening dado blades.  They said to be sure to ask your sharpener
to grind to at least 400 grit, as 180 grit would not restore the edge
well enough.

That made me realize I have no idea about how to select a quality tool
sharpening service, what they should cost, etc.

Does anyone have anything else to offer, besides the "sharpen to 400"
criterion?   What should you ask for, look for, etc?

-- tom
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: What is the diff between an tilt arbor and table saw?
Date: 23 Dec 92 20:00:42 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA

ameres@ithaca.cat.rpi.edu (Eric Ameres) writes:
: In article <1992Dec23.164038.13923@crd.ge.com> kassover@rumsey.crd.ge.com (David Kassover) writes:
: >
: >In order to make bevel cuts, one must arrange that the blade be
: >at some other angle than 90 degrees to the table.  Most of the
: >time, the blade (which is held on the shaft by the arbor) is
: >tilted (which may involve tilting the motor, as well).  But
: >occasionally, one will find a tilting table saw, in which the
: >arbor is stationary, but the table tilts.
: >
: >-- 
: >David Kassover             "Proper technique helps protect you against
: 
: Don't most tablesaws (I'd assume the Delta Contractor's adn the like)
: allow you to tilt the blade to make bevel cuts?  If so then what's the
: difference between a tilt arbor and these normal tablesaws.  If not
: then I've made a heck of an assumption regarding most table saws and
: am glad someone asked.

David's description is a little confusing. The arbor is the shaft on which
the blade is fastened.  It may, or may not, also be the motor shaft. In
most cases, the blade arbor is driven by belt by the motor shaft.

The normal table saw is tilt-arbor. There is no difference. There are
saws available, however, where you tip the table. I believe the Shopsmith
series is of this design.

: I am guessing here, but might it be that a tilt-arbor saw tilts the
: arbor and not the motor (implying that a tilt arbor saw must also be
: belt (or otherwise indirectly) driven ) or is this mechanically
: impossible?  

On most of the saws, the motor tips, along with the arbor. The mechanical
design for such a saw is simpler than one where the motor is fixed.

: From this assumption, I would further theorize that normal tablesaws
: would therefore tilt the arbor and the motor as a unit.  

A normal table saw, as used by the people in this group, is a tilt
arbor saw. So - yes, your assumption is valid.

: OK anyone care to relate this into some commonly acceptable examples:
: Is the saw arbor of the Delta Contractor's directly attached to the
: motor?  What about the Delta Cabinet Saw? I have seen posts regarding
: the unisaw which must be belt driven.  Which of these qualify as
: tilting arbor saws?  Does the Unisaw qualify as a cabinet saw?

All the saws you mention are belt driven. There are very few table
saws, that I know of, which are direct drive. I believe they are all
tilting-arbor design. 

Bill
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: an625@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Kryl Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: re: Jointer vs Planer - Thanks
Date: 25 Dec 1992 15:09:56 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: an625@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Kryl Logan)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc4.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz) says:
229 lines of text delted...

>  This is the last I have to say in this matter.

Thank goodness


-- 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: Annie Fetter <fetter@forum.swarthmore.edu>
Subject: what glue for fixing wooden bowl?
X-Xxmessage-Id: <A7688DB3CA01410C@olmo.swarthmore.edu>
X-Xxdate: Thu, 31 Dec 92 11:44:51 GMT
Organization: The Geometry Forum
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d11
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 16:46:00 GMT

My sister gave us a very nice wooden bowl for Christmas.  It is round,
and has straight sides that are glued to a round base.  There is a
significant crack up one of the sides (no, she's not thoughtless - she
got it free at work and thought we might like it :-).  We're wondering
what the best glue might be to fix this.  We do plan to put food in it. 
I also didn't know if maybe we should finish it something.  It isn't just
raw wood now, and seems to have been finished with more than just oil.

Any suggestions are much appreciated!  Feel free to post, as I'm using
some semi-vacation time to catch up on all the power tools I want when we
buy a house :-)

	-Annie
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: millios@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (william.l.millios)
Subject: Re: Wood for Plane Soles
Organization: AT&T
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 15:42:46 GMT

In article <92343.075139RSASMC@rohvm1.rohmhaas.com> <RSASMC@rohvm1.rohmhaas.com> writes:
>Any suggestions on how to deal with this one?
>   All comments and suggestions appreciated.

One suggestion is to buy a big enough piece of lignum vitae (or other
wood) and dovetail the thing in - use a sliding dovetail crosswise
on the plane.  Alternatively, but not as nice, use a box-type of
joint.

The better handmade planes I've seen use this technique.

Bill
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 28 Dec 1992 13:26:24 EST
From:         Doug Cutler <UNCDWC@UNCVM1.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: SmartLevel (need info)

On Wed, 23 Dec 1992 13:35:14 GMT Eric B. Stauffer said:
>I am thinking about buying my brother a SmartLevel for his birthday in
>February. Anyone have any experience with them? How much do they
>cost?
>
   I have been lookin at these for a while and even played with one!!!
   As far as I know there are/were three versions of this item all made
   by the same manufacturer:
     #1  Removable module with a set of Teak rails.  $150+++
     #2  Removable module with a set of aluminim rails. $80~
     #3  Fixed module in aluminum rail with limited function.  $60~

   I haven't seen any ads. for #1 recently so it may not be available any more,
Bridge City tools did cary it.
   #2 Is currently available from a number of sources, the cheapest I have seen
is TrendLines, Module with 2' rail and case for about $100 including shipping.
   #3 The price is so near to #2 that with the limited functions and not being
able to remove the module to use as a small "bubble" level I don't think it is
worth considering  (NB. That is my opinion!!!)


  Doug. Cutler                       Office of Information Technology,
  VM Systems Programmer              University of North Carolina.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: Drying wet wood without cracking, HOW?
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 09:05:08 GMT

richard@TIS.COM (Richard Clark) writes:
: 
: 	At any rate, after having turned the wood wet, (it's soo much softer
: and easier. Dogwood turns into a *rock* when it dries.) I stand the work on
: the bench to dry for a week or so. But it inevitably forms cracks and splits
: which I'd rather not have. So the question is: Is there any quick and easy
: way to dry the stuff without having it split? Is there something I can do,
: build, buy, cheaply?

Most woods, when dried rapidly, are going to split. That is why you see all
the lumber in the lumberyard with painted ends. The painting cuts down on
moisture lose through the ends, reducing the cracking.

You might try painting the ends - it might help.

Bill
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: gcohen@mailer.cc.fsu.edu (Gregory Cohen)
Subject: Re: Pressure treated plywood
Organization: Florida State University
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 92 16:31:21 GMT

In article <1992Dec29.152736.14271@cas.org> jeb26@cas.org (Jim Bossenbroek) writes:
>I discovered this group a few months ago and have enjoyed it ever since.  I'm 
>especially impressed with the congeniality of the group and lack of flames.
>
>It appears that my next project is to provide a basketball hoop and backboard
>for #2 daughter.  Is 3/4" pressure treated plywood an appropriate choice for the
>backboard?  Should the edges be treated in any special way to accommodate the
>weather?  I have in mind that the plywood should be allowed to weather for a 
>period of weeks/months before painting.  Correct?  Those with experience please
>share your insights.  thanks jb
>
>-- 
>...........................................................................
>Jim Bossenbroek         jeb26@cas.org         VOICE:  (614) 447-3838 X 2650
>Chemical Abstracts Service, Columbus OH         FAX:  (614) 447-3713
>...........................................................................

I made a backboard out of 3/4" MDO (signboard) ...  It is a waterproof
wood that once painted lasts indefinitly.  It's finish is much smoother
than pressuretreated, but unnecessaraly so.  Pressuretreated should work
but all you realy need is painted exterior grade lumber.        


	
-GReg Cohen
gcohen@mailer.cc.fsu.edu

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ameres@ithaca.cat.rpi.edu (Eric Ameres)
Subject: sanding/cabinets
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy NY
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 15:42:38 GMT

rec.wwer's,

Latest in the saga of Eric and his kitchen cabinets.  The cases for
the uppers are all done and one coat of (lacquer) sanding sealer has
been applied.  Current thought is to finish the upper cases and hang
them to get them out of the way (note I am assuming that hanging the
doors with them in place won't be a big deal, let me know if you know
otherwise, I'm using stanley #55 knife hinges).

After much turmoil, I settled on Park's brand lacquer sanding sealer
and satin finish lacquer because I could get them locally.  Boy, is
this stuff potent!!!  Because I like to be cautious and thorough, I
purchased 2 Scott respirators and proper cartridges for spraying
finishes, I converted one room of the house to a spray room (although
we (my wife and I) applied the sealer with brushes) by closing it off
and building an exhaust system from an exhaust fan from a lab hood to
pipe the air outside while using another window as a fresh air source.
With the masks you couldn't smell a thing, but once when adjusting my
mask I let a little fume in, WOW is this stuff strong (w/o spraying
even!!).

Anyway, I'm now facing the resanding of all these beauties and am
thinking of buying one of those little DeWalt (made in the USA) palm
finishing sanders.  Anyone have any experiences with these guys?  I'm
using my PC EVS random orbit for the bulk of the work, but inside
corners are a pain with the 6" round pad (otherwise I HIGHLY recommend
this sander (even in place of a belt sander, unless you have a
comfortable amount of cash to get both, or already have X finishing
sanders :^> )).

Also, in preparing the oak veneer plywood I sanded with a medium
(~120) then went to a fine (~150).  Now after applying the sealer
should I skip right to the fine?  On my test piece it look pretty
good.  I like the semi-open grain effect.  Any grit progression
advice?  Do I need to apply a second coat of sealer?  My plan with the
lacquer was to spray about 6 coats using steel wool between the 3rd
and 4th and 5th and 6th.  And thoughts?

Thanks as always.  Hope some of my cabinet ramblings are useful to
someone out there.

Eric.
-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Eric Ameres,  Software Engineer                 ameres@cat.rpi.edu
New York State Center for Advanced Technology in Automation & Robotics
Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute - CII 8313, Troy, NY 12180-3590
From: nickn@eskimo.com (Nick Nussbaum)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Looking for lettering ideas for a refinishing project.
Date: 2 Jan 93 20:56:31 GMT
Organization: -> ESKIMO NORTH (206) For-Ever <-


Yes there is press-on lettering that you could place on the varnished
surface, cover with a spray varnish. There's a wide selection in
black and even a very small selection in gold.
If you have a complex pattern to reproduce, there's some nifty new
technology you can find at your local big art supply store. It's
a plastic sheet coated with a special pigment. You use a special
machine to heat transfer the sheet over a sheet of paper with a 
xerographic toner image from a laser copier. the pigment transfer
only where the toner is. The pigments come in a huge collection of
colors including metallic and black.
The way to use this is; make a negative image on a computer and print
out a piece of paper on a laser copier with the image.
Heat transfer the selected foil over the paper. The remaining pattern
on the plastic carrier sheet is the foil you want to transfer to your
varnish. Heat transfer or just imbed the entire plastic sheet on your
project.
The heat transfer iron is a bit expensive, $70 or so.. but I'd
be tempted to get out the household iron and play with a couple of
sheets of the magic foil. It does offer the possiblity of doing multi
color decals and matching the typeface on the radio exactly; both of
which would be hard to do with the stock transfer lettering.
-- 
Nick Nussbaum		nickn@eskimo.com	PO 4738 Seattle,WA 98104
From: daniel@redwood.ppc.ubc.ca (Daniel Ouellet)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Clock and music box movements
Date: 21 Dec 92 17:01:21 GMT
Organization: University of B.C. Pulp & Paper Centre
NNTP-Posting-Host: redwood.ppc.ubc.ca

In article <1992Dec20.191633.114@taney.uscghq.uscg.mil>, bradshaw@taney.uscghq.uscg.mil writes:
|> 
|> Does anyone know of a company that sells wind up clock and/or music box
|> movements?  I know about Clockit, but they deal mostly in quarts(ugh!)
|> movements.
|> 
|> Thanks in advance,
|> 
|> Edward Bradshaw         bradshaw@taney.uscghq.uscg.mil
|> Bowie, MD
|> 

Lee Valley Tools have some musical box movements. They also have a number of clock
movements, but I don't know if some are of the wind up type. I'll have to check in their
much acclaimed catalog :^). 
-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Daniel Ouellet, Research Associate
Pulp and Paper Centre, University of British Columbia
2385 East Mall, Vancouver, BC, Canada V6T 1Z4
Tel:(604)822-8240   Fax:(604)822-8563   Email: daniel@ppc.ubc.ca
From: twl10@ccc.amdahl.com (Tom Littauer)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: coloured stains for kids blocks
Date: 23 Dec 92 18:31:13 GMT
Reply-To: twl10@JUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Tom Littauer)
Distribution: na
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

The new Highland Hardware (Atlanta Georgia) catalog lists non-toxic stains
in bright primary colors. They recommend covering them with Behlen's Salad
Bowl finish.
-- 
Tom Littauer at Amdahl M/S 278, PO Box 3470, Sunnyvale CA 94088-3470 USA
+1 408 737 5056     twl10@juts.ccc.amdahl.com     twl10@amail.amdahl.com
I'll tell you when I'm speaking as Amdahl's Spokesman - usually I'm not.
V'z n fgrnygu-grpuabybtl rapelcgrq .fvtangher ivehf - TBGPUN!!!
From: apoyner@as.arizona.edu (Tony Poyner)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Safest way to use radial arm saw?
Date: 21 Dec 92 17:33:56 GMT
Reply-To: apoyner@as.arizona.edu
Organization: MMT Observatory, Univ.of Arizona

In article 083438RSASMC@rohvm1.rohmhaas.com, RSASMC@rohvm1.rohmhaas.com () writes:

>At EVERY woodworking show I have attended, I have watched the Forrest blade
>demo person show the use of their RA blade by PUSHING the blade through the
>work. YES, I SAID PUSHING THE BLADE. The demo person even made the comment
>that it isn't done that way in the States, but should be, as the RAS is a
>knock-off of some European panel type saw that does get pushed through the
>wood. The really nifty part of the demo was when the blade was pushed half
>way through the piece of wood and the demo guy took his hand away and let
>the blade spin away in the kerf. It stayed put. Another argument, he said,
>for pushing the blade was that it wouldn't come running at you.
>
There IS no free lunch!

If you pull the blade, the blade tries to "self-feed", and you have to
hold it back from running up your arm.  Not good.

However, if you push, the back of the blade is trying to pull the wood 
up off the table.  Therefore, you better hold the wood down securely or
suffer the consequences!

I prefer the standard (American?) method of pulling, keeping my arm stiff
to maintain control.  As yet, I have never had a problem - but I DO treat
the saw with a LOT of respect.
 
---
Tony Poyner                               apoyner@as.arizona.edu
Multiple Mirror Telescope Observatory     Tel   (602) 621-5185
Univ. of Arizona, Tucson, AZ 85721        Fax   (602) 670-5740
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Jointer upgrade info
From: stericker_r@qis.dofasco.ca
Date: 27 Dec 92 17:13:28 GMT
Organization: Dofasco Inc, Hamilton, Ont. Can.
Nntp-Posting-User: stericker_r

I just noticed a similar thread on the net.  I hope you won't mind
the slight difference in this question.  Basically we are looking 
for alternatives to the imported clone machines.  Thanks, and Happy
New Year to everyone.

Once again I am looking for advice on woodworking machinery.
We currently have a Ryobi jointer in the shop, when it was purchaced
portability was a concern for us,  now that the garage is now a full
time workshop something with longer tables would be appreciated.

As usual there is the choice between name brands vs. inported clones, 
I would like to go with the name brand as long as the cost difference 
is not too high.  The budget is about $1000 - $1500 Canadian. 

Currently I have seen three jointers:  The Delta 6" longbed @$1650 
the General 6" @$900 and the clones @$400-$500.  The Delta has the 
longest bed but is slightly out of the price range.  The General is 
well made but a little short (42") and has a end mounted fence.  The 
fence is not a major concern, after examination it appears to be very
solid, but I have always thought the center mount was a better way to 
go.  The clones are cheap, have 48" tables and the usual question marks 
regarding motors, bearings and accuracy of machining.  They also do not 
always support good dust collection which is important to me.

Anyway please send me your thoughts, experiences etc. on the subject of 
buying a good quality jointer.  Thanks in advance.
-- 
************************************************************************
Ray Stericker					Opinions expressed are
Process Software Analyst			my own, and not those of
Dofasco 					Dofasco etc.......
Hamilton Ontario, Canada
************************************************************************
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 21 Dec 1992 10:57:04 EST
From:         dave talaga x2752 <talaga@E5SB.OSDHW.SYR.GE.COM>
Subject:      Re: Baldor Motor Needs help to start. Why?

> From: "G. Paul Houtz" <gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com>
> Subject:      Baldor Motor Needs help to start. Why?

> The motor made a loud humming noise and turned slowly in on direction (about
> 10 rpm).   So, I grabbed the shaft and gave it a twist, and viola! it started
> up and ran real smooth and strong.
>
> My question:  Should I invest in a new capacitor to see if it will start
> up properly, or is the shaft still misalgned, and the whole thing worthless?
>
> Whaddya think?
>
> If it works, I would like to attach it to an arbor and use it for a grinding
> wheel for planer and jointer blades.  It just seems inconvenient to have to
> hand crank it to get it to start.
>
Paul,

I had a similar problem with the motor on my 1 year-old Delta
Contractor's saw.  It turned out that the switch that removes the
capacitors from the armature, once the motor gets to operating speed,
had some crud in it.  The crud prevented the switch from closing
(capacitors in the circuit), so there wasn't the phase offset necessary
to start the motor. The end result was the motor turned at a very low
RPM, made a loud humming noise and tripped a 20 amp breaker (110v) in a
matter of seconds.

I took it the motor housing apart, cleaned out the contacts,
reassembled, and bingo, worked great.

Dave Talaga
From: cf036@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (G. Gary Preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: WARNING
Date: 3 Jan 1993 20:48:39 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc4.ins.cwru.edu


I'd also suggest that because you were frustrated at not getting
much done in your limited private time, you were in a hurry to
make every precious moment count.  Add #4 to your list "I was
in a hurry and took shortcuts."

I have a few scars too, most notable is a saw scar 1/3 way
through my right thumb.  It only went partway through due to
a dull bandsaw blade, not lack of pressure on my part.  In
all instances I've identified one common factor: I was in a hurry
and took a shortcut.