From: smrtstr!syspb@uu.psi.com (Paul)
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: (null)
Date: 22 Jul 92 02:58:13 GMT

Here is some 9mm reloading info that I would like to pass on.  First of all,O
it's hard to get good data from the manuals.  One manual tells you the
maximum load for a given powder may be almost 1 grain different than another
manual.  When you consider the shell only holds between 4 and 10 grains of
powder, that's 10% to 25% difference with the same bullet weight.  Another
thing is that sometimes they use a 'special test barrel' that only fires 1
shot, and it is never the same length as your gun.  You have to guestimate
alot of the time.  It seems like most manuals are written for revolvers or
.45acp shooters.  

Another thing, is that every manual recommends using Hercules Unique powder.
It is accurate powder, but it's really dirty.  I used it once, but never
again.  After about 200 rounds, it made my gun jam.  With Bullseye, I never
had that problem.  Unique probably works ok if you have a 'special test
barrel', and clean it every 10 shots or so.  Hodgson HS6 has a similar
burning rate to Unique, and is much cleaner.  7.0 grains of HS6 with a 115gr
FMJ bullet works great.  Hercules Blue Dot is another good powder for the
9mm.  Blue Dot works well for hot loads, or heavy bullets.  I like to use
slower burning powders, because the recoil isn't as sharp.  You have to use
a bit more powder that the fast powders, but the CUP pressure is actually 
lower.  AA#5 works good, but AA#7 did not work as well.  Win 231, is about
the same as Bulseye, but seems a bit more accurate.

One problem with the 9mm, is finding the cases after you shoot them.  You'll
probably loose at least 25% of your cases, so don't spend alot of time
trimming or prepping them.  I always clean them before reloading.  One thing
I do is to sort the ones I want to keep, and seperate the not so good ones.
The crummy cases can be used to shoot 1 last time, at a place where you will
loose all of them anyways.  Winchester cases are the best.  Remmington and
Federal are good to.  I had some problems with Federal cases with lead bullets,
After seating the bullet, you could still push it in deeper with your hand.
When the lip of the case gets damaged or worn out, it's better to get rid of
it.  There's usually plenty of others on the ground at the shooting range,
so don't worry about loosing a few.  Sometimes you can trade in the ones that
you don't want at the dealer.  You may be able to get 2 or 3 cents each.

For accuracy, it's better to use heavier bullets.  I tried some 90-95 grain
bullets that were sized for a .380, and they were terrible.  The 115gr FMJ
or 125gr lead bullets were much more accurate.  I did have good results with
the Speer 100gr HP, loaded with 9.5 grains of Blue Dot however.  The 88gr HP
bullets are not accurate.  I never tried 147 gr bullets, but some people
swear by them.  You should try to use bullets that have as much surface
touching the rifling as possible.  

I used to load hot loads.  If the book said 'maximum load' or 'do not exceed'
I would try that one first.  These loads are less accurate than more mild
ones, and also wear your gun out faster.  I notice that my alloy frame shows
alot more wear than others with steel frames.  You should avoid maximum loads
if you have an alloy frame.  Your gun will last longer if you do.  

I could go on and on, but I won't.  If you have any questions, email me.
If you have any comments about reloading the 9mm, I would like to hear them.
I just wanted to express my opinion about reloading the 9mm, and how it's
confusing when you first get started.  After you cut through all of the crap
it's fairly easy to reload.