HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: wmack@en.ecn.purdue.edu (William J Mack)
Subject: African cichlids
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 93 19:39:00 GMT

I am looking for some recommendations on any good books on africans,
primarily dealing with their care and types of species.  Thanks.


-- 
Bill Mack                        "If you expect me to be an expert on the
School of Electrical Engineering  fundamentals while I'm asking a fundamental
Purdue University                 question, fine.......I'll pretend to be one!"
From: ayresr@gtewd.mtv.gsc.gte.com (Rich Ayres)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: [F] Bolivian Rams (a second attempt)
Date: 21 Jan 93 16:27:06 -0800
Organization: GTE Govt. Systems, Electronics Def. Div.


 A thousand pardons for the previous 3 unreadable messages.  The account
running this net-server had run out of disk quota!  Luckily, through
some quick mouse work, I was able to capture my wonderful art.




  Does anyone know how to distiguish Mr. Bolivian Ram from Mrs. Bolivian Ram?

  I have two of these fish here (by my very side), but both are the same
  sex.  I've heard that the dorsal fin can help distinguish them, does
  anyone know details.  Both my fish have:


        //
      ////
    //////////////
  ---------------\/  --
 / .              \-----
 O                 -----
 \___\____________------
      \ \           ---


That is to say, the third and forth spikes are the longest, and the first
5 are darker than the rest (or forth or fifth if you count a really small
spike up front).    So far, neither of my fish have noticed this
atrocious rendering of their finnage, so I'd better post now else they
go on some sort of hunger strike!

Oh, but first, would anyone know if a good SanFran-SanJose source for
Bolivian Rams?


-Rich
-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
|	Richard R. Ayres
|	ayres@mars.mtv.gsc.gte.com
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Aquariums, Gravel and Fish !
From: amt@mod.dsto.gov.au (Andrew Tynan)
Date: 28 Jan 93 10:45:35 CST

enriquez@zikzak.apana.org.au (Luke Enriquez) writes:

>G'day All,
>	This is the first article I have posted on Usenet, and with it, I
>wish to enlighten you to the fact that you can keep fish healthy, and even
>breed them, without gravel.

>	Some of you may have found that after heavy feeding of pellet
>food, frozen food, flakes, etc, that a reasonable proportion of the food
>sinks to the bottom, wedging itself between the gravel never to be found
>and eaten by the fish.

>	This food can rot, causing all sorts of algae problems and poor
>fish health. After visiting a friends fish house, which contained some 25
>tanks on stands, I noticed that he had no gravel in them. On further
>asking he showed me the simplicity of keep fish without gravel.

>	I'm not suggesting that you *DO NOT* use gravel in a tank which is
>meant for looking at, but it should be considered in situations like
>myself, where i find most of my tanks are dedicated to keeping fish to
>look at (or for eletroflouresis) or for breeding. None of the Australian
>natives I keep seem to worry about no gravel in their tank, esp Galaxiads,
>Gobies and Gudgeons.

>Regards,
>Luke

>PS : I dont buy fish, what I can catch with a dipnet in the rivers around
>Melbourne is what I keep in my tanks. Personally, I am very *ANTI* native
>fish trading.

>-- 
>		Zikzak public access UNIX, Melbourne, Australia.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------

I, also,  would like to collect my own Aust. native fish. Can you tell me what
fish you have been able to find in your area and how you caught them (dip-net,
trap, etc.). 
Are there any of the local (Melb.) fish that you are prohibited to take? (This
last question is directed to anyone aware of restrictions on taking Aust.
native fish.)
----


	I was interested in your comments that you were "very *ANTI* native fish
trading". Are you saying that you would prefer that anyone wanting a particular
fish species should take it from the natural habitat in preference to buying it
from a breeder. 
	This may be fine for the more prolific species but for other
less abundant species, I would prefer to see dedicated breeders keeping the
stocks available to the likes of us aquarium people rather than continually
reducing the numbers in their habitat. (Just my view!)

Regards,
Andrew Tynan

  _--_|\ 	Andrew Tynan
 / DSTO \  	Maritime Operations Division - MRL
 \_.--._/	Defence Science & Technology Organisation
       v 	Salisbury, South Australia  

--


  _--_|\ 	Andrew Tynan
 / DSTO \  	Maritime Operations Division - MRL
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: c059rbm@utarlg.uta.edu
Subject: Help locating Lamprichthys Tanganicanus
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Keywords:  African Killifish
Organization: The University of Texas at Arlington
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 22:10:00 GMT



	Sorry for the messed up post earlyer and yes I'm a newbe to the
	net.  

	For the original question could someone please help me locate
	some F1 youngins  or better yet a spawning pair of the 
	Lamprichthys Tanganicanus. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


		Robert Montgomery
From: pete@introl.com (Pete Ikusz)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [F] flying fox vs. pl*co
Date: 22 Jan 1993 14:48:03 -0600
Organization: Introl Corp.
NNTP-Posting-Host: introl.introl.com

In article <24686@alice.att.com> jj@alice.UUCP (jj, curmudgeon and all-around grouch) writes:
>
>My ancestrus, and my pekoltia are both less than 6" full grown,
>the pecoltia a fat fat fat 3".  They both love algae, eat it like
>there's no tomorrow, and don't get any bigger because they're
>full-grown.  Now, they aren't plecos, or hypostamus species, just
>suckermouth catfish that eat algae and look a lot like them, so you
>aren't entirely off base here. Of course, a "Bristlenosed Pleco"
>is an ancestrus, and a "dwarf pleco" can be a pekoltia in the
>average pet store, too.

I got lost somewhere in this paragraph. What is the difference
between a ancestrus, pekolita, pleco, and or hypostamus specis?
I do not have an Aquarium reference handy.
Is there some sort of FAQ for this?!!! :-)
If there isn't I think we now need one!
-Pete
-- 
-------------------------------------------------------
Pete Ikusz	Introl Corporation	pete@introl.com
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria,sci.aquaria
From: steve@coho.austin.ibm.com (sTeVeN CaLlAhAn)
Subject: Re: [M] Cowfish, live rock and beginners...
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 19:26:23 GMT
Organization: IBM, Austin


Well, my thanks to David Packer for solving the mysterious death of my
poor cowfish.  

I believe that my live rock DID kill my cow.  However it was not parasites
that were on the rock that floated out into the water.  Instead it was
the fact that the cow was eating stuff off of the live rock all the time.

I have two different types of live rock.  One type is covered with purple
sponge.  The other is some kind of orange stuff.  The orange stuff is
starting to flake and fall off making a mess in my tank.

The reason that the cowfish was affected was that 
it was always eating stuff off of the orange rock.  The other fish 
never grazed my live rock, and thus are still alive.  Alas, what is this
orange stuff that is on this rock?  Why is it peeling off?  The rock itself
is very fragile and breaks if mishandled.  


steve
-- 
___________________________________________________________________________
Steven Callahan					   
callahan@austin.ibm.com				   I'd rather
(512) 838-8418					         be raving...
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: joshua@homespace.mtview.ca.us (Joshua Levy)
Subject: Re: Help.....babies..
Organization: Expert Support Inc., Mountain View, CA
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 05:36:29 GMT

In article <1993Jan24.234143.28267@mnemosyne.cs.du.edu> gchalk@nyx.cs.du.edu (Geoff Chalk) writes:
>
>one of the female swordtales gave birth last night and there seems to be 
>about six babies that have survived.
>
>what kind of food do I need to get for the babies?

Well, you can buy powdered fish food designed for fry, but I don't.
Instead I take normal flake fish food and grind it up into a powder.
Also, I hard boil an egg, and feed the fish small parts of the yolk,
powdered.  With fry it is important to feed they many times a day,
but very small amounts each time.

Real Fish Keepers(tm) feed their fry newly hached brine shrimp, or
small daphnia.

>do I need to do anything different with the amount of time the
>light is on in the tank??

Basically no, but do not leave the light on all the time!  Guppy
fry kept with the light on all the time will grow faster, but end 
up steril.  I do not know if this will happen to swordtails, but 
it might.

Good luck.

Joshua Levy  (joshua@homespace.mtview.ca.us)
From: rcooper@world.std.com (ron w cooper)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Problems with cloudy water/startup/novice
Keywords: startup cloudy brown dead fish
Date: 27 Jan 93 01:37:23 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA

Ok, I'm a novice to this fish stuff.

We have set up....let run...drained...washed...setup again....drained...welll
you've got the picture.  Ph is 7.0  Nothing in the tank except about 1 1/2
inches of gravel, heater and filter. Filter is outside of tank (10gallon).

My 14 year old son bought this setup a couple of weeks ago.. and we have
done nothing but kill "hardy" fish ever since.  

We have made numerous trips to the pet store for water testing and they
tell us that nothing is wrong. "Maybe heavy metals in the water".
(town water).

Ok...drain the tank and fill with spring water (purchased)  let set and
STILL it turns cloudy.

I'm about ready to chuck the whole thing....

Any ideas...or questions that might help indicate what is wrong ???

Thanks.....Ron.
From: bryan@kolsky.tamu.edu (Bryan Milligan)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: (M) How often to change water?
Date: 27 Jan 1993 15:41:07 GMT
Organization: Texas A&M University, College Station, TX
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: kolsky.tamu.edu

In article <1993Jan26.204520.16032@sfu.ca> windels@lemon.csil.sfu.ca  
(Karla Jane Windels) writes:
> How often should water in a marine aquarium be changed and what  
amount each
> time?
> 
> We have recently converted one tank over to salt water and were told
> by the fish store who sold us the new supplies that the water did not
> need to be changed as often as with fresh.  They recommended: once  
after
> the first month, then once a year after that.  But I've also heard  
other
> answers. 

I have three salt water tanks:
		58g reef
		90g predator w/ some live rock
		20g misc w/ a little live rock
It has been about six months since I changed the water in any of
them.  Everything is doing fine.  I haven't added anything other
than RO water to the reef tank in several months as well.


--

Bryan Milligan                          Voice:        (409) 845-7541
Department of Aerospace Engineering     Fax:          (409) 845-6051
Texas A&M University                    Wings & More: (409) 693-6363
bryan@kolsky.tamu.edu
(NeXT Mail accepted)              #include snappy_quote_here
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier)
Subject: Re: Good/Bad Nursery Tank Set Up
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 93 17:47:13 GMT

Kevin Townend (mog362w@ccu1.aukuni.ac.nz) wrote:
: Hi Netters,
: 
: I have two pregnant guppies that I am going to put into a 5 - 10 g Nursery
: tank until they deliver.
: 
: I thought I would put an AquaClear Mini Filter on this tank with a
: sponge over the intake (as has been discussed here recently) so the fry
: won't be sucked up.
: 
: Is this a good setup or will the current still be too strong ?

That would work fine - guppy fry are robust little buggers.
If you are going to purchase the aquaclear mini, you might
instead want to buy a sponge filter and an airpump - that
*should* be cheaper - but it doesn't really matter.

--
"They thought to use and shame me but I win out by nature, because a true
freak cannot be made.  A true freak must be born." - K. Dunn, _Geek Love_

Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier
From: scol@scottsdale.az.stratus.com (Scott Colbath)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [F] Painted Glassfish off my list!
Date: 21 Jan 1993 13:50:15 GMT
Organization: Stratus Computer Inc, Marlboro MA
Distribution: na
NNTP-Posting-Host: scottsdale.az.stratus.com

In article <1993Jan20.193823.13872@bsu-ucs> 01mbmccabe@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu  
writes:
> > I had no idea that the "painted" part of painted glass fish was actually 
> > an injected dye.  I think this is terrible, and I will not be getting any 
> > of these fish.
> > 
> > Thanks to everyone who pointed this fact out to me; is there any other such
> > occurences that I should be aware of?
> 
> I've seen baby tinfoil barbs painted as well.
> 
> 				-Matt

I too didn't know my painted glassfish was colored by injecting dye. No more  
for me. When I found out, I called the fish store to find out more and they  
said that the color fades after about a year.
--
**********************************************************
Scott Colbath
Stratus Computer
Phoenix, Az.  (602)852-3106
Internet:scott_colbath@az.stratus.com
**********************************************************
From: der@ctron.com (William C. Der)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Cloudy Water
Date: 25 Jan 93 11:42:28 GMT
Reply-To: der@ctron.com (William C. Der)
Organization: Cabletron Systems Inc

Has anyone tried a product called "Freshwater Clarifier" from Coralife?
It supposedly prevents algae from sticking to rocks, glass, etc.
Not only that, it is supposed to combine with particulate
matter to allow it to be filtered out. I wonder if this could be a
magic bullet to the algae and "green water" problem. All chemicals
I've tried so far provide clarify the water temporarily only.
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:10410 alt.aquaria:6778 sci.aquaria:1923
From: howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria,sci.aquaria
Subject: Re: Electronic pH-detector
Date: 26 Jan 1993 16:57:34 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division
NNTP-Posting-Host: hplsdum.col.hp.com

S_EBACH@rzmain.rz.uni-ulm.de (Ebach Bernd) writes:
> I recently saw a posting about building a do-it-yourself-pH-detector.
> Unfortunately this posting has been expired at our site.
> 
> Could someone (preferably the original poster) mail me (or post) the
> instruction plan of that thing?
> 
> (eMail: s_ebach@main01.rz.uni-ulm.de OR s_wetterman@main02.rz.uni-ulm.de)
> 
> TschauTschau
> 		Bernd and Pierre


The poster of the device plans was gb@dixie.cs.unc.edu (Gary Bishop).
If Gary is not on the net at this time I would be happy to repost 
his plans.

It was actually at CO2 content probe.  Because the only changes the
unit can detect are from gasses that cross the air bridge between
the water in the detector and the water in the tank.  Thus any pH
change in the tank due to things other then gasses (such as CO2)
will not be indicated by the device.

I wish it were not so.

-- 
Howard Rebel hpcsos.col.hp.com 

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: peggy@cc.gatech.edu (Peggy Simpson)
Subject: Beginner questions on Marine Tank
Reply-To: peggy@cc.gatech.edu (Peggy Simpson)
Organization: College of Computing, Georgia Institute of Technology
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1993 18:04:03 GMT

Hi, folks!

I am considering setting up my first marine aquarium.  I have found
several helpful books (and your FAQs!), but I have a couple of
additional questions. 

My goal is a 75 -125 gal tank with the following occupants:

	1 cowfish
	1 tang (yellow or blue)
	1 anemone 
	1 clownfish

	and maybe in the future a banded coral shrimp or a
	snowflake moray.

My questions are as follows:

	What would the best order be for adding the fish?  I know
that the anemone is probably the least tolerant, so I imagine
it should go last. 

	Will these fish get along?  I know that several of you
have cowfish (steve's story broke my heart!), but I haven't
found a lot of info in my books on them.  Any info on keeping
cowfish would be appreciated.  What other fish would be compatible?

	Finally,  I'm trying to choose between the glass and the
acrylic tanks.  I haven't found any advantages to the acrylic,
they're way more expensive and I understand that they scratch very
easily.  I do like a 75 gal semi-circular one at the local fish
store, however, as it would fit into many good locations in my
home.  (But I'm still leaning to the all glass rectangular for
price.)  How do the fish feel about non-rectangular shapes -- 
semi-circles or hexagonal tanks?  Are they're any real advantages 
to acrylic -- I imagine it doesn't break as easily.  Is it worth
the money?

	Any other comments would be great!  Thanks for your help!

		-- Peggy   peggy@cc.gatech.edu


   ___(_)              |\    /|  ----  ----  |                ._.___   
 /( _ ,U -| moo!       | \  / |  |  |  |  |  |                 U. _ }  
  || ||                |  \/  |  ----  ----  o                  || ||  
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: rjohnson@cs.cornell.edu (Richard Johnson)
Subject: (ALL) Puffer problems, salinity questions, lead in brackish tank
Keywords: figure-eight puffer, specific gravity, lead
Organization: Cornell Univ. CS Dept, Ithaca NY 14853
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 21:35:49 GMT

I recently converted a freshwater tank to brackish water and added
two fish: a large figure-8 puffer and a spotted puffer.  Both fish
did fine for a couple of weeks, but now they both are lethargic.

Originally, I added 1 tsp salt per gallon of water and set the temp.
to 78F.  The tank is 10gal and has a Whisper 1 powerfilter.  I've been
feeding the fish frozen brine shimp and snails from my freshwater tank.

Earlier this week, the heater (a cheapo Hartz 50W) failed, and the temp.
fell to 70F and then went way up to 86F.  I've replaced the heater, but
the larger puffer doesn't eat and mainly hangs out near the filter
intake tube.

Here are my questions:

- What is the right temp/salinity range for these fish?  I've been told
  that 75F and SG of 1.006 or higher is good.  Do the fish like more salt?
  Would they be happier with something around 1.015?

- Are the small, freshwater snails ok to feed to the puffers?  They really
  seem to enjoy a crunchy snack.

- The fish have no external signs of damage/parasites/etc; they're just
  sluggish and won't eat.  Is there some treatment I should try on the fish?
  Could they be hanging out on the intake tube because of some gill problem?

- I previously had plants w/lead anchor weights in the tank.  Could this
  be the cause of the problem?

Any response to the above or more info on puffers in general is greatly
appreciated!

Richard Johnson
rjohnson@cs.cornell.edu
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:10351 alt.aquaria:6731
From: kwilson@cds002.hac.com (kevin wilson)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: Fish in the Workplace
Date: 22 Jan 93 22:48:59 GMT
Organization: Hughes Aircraft Company


>My comment: 3 fish-store experts, ranging from owners to high school drop-outs
>were of the opinion that copper wouldn't hurt fish (one argument, its in 
>certain medications).  The pennies were pretty heavily corroded, with gravel
>fused to them in places.  With that kind of reaction, its hard to believe 
>it was harmless.  So, what, in general, is the credibility rate of fish
>stores?  Who would you'all trust more, them, or this net?  (and how many
>times has the word 'net' been used as the basis of a pun in this topic? ;) )
>

Experience with most fish stores in the Southern California area suggests
that only about 10% at best would be able to reliably answer questions.
Copper is definitely harmful to fish when exposed long term.  Copper is
used as a medication allowing for short term exposure and is certainly 
better than the alternative of no treatment. Whether the fish dies from
actual copper toxicity is arguable, however, long term exposure to even
small amounts of copper stress the fish thereby increasing susceptability
to disease.
From: gt6441c@prism.gatech.EDU (Jon Edwards )
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Fish in the Workplace
Date: 23 Jan 93 16:44:39 GMT
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology

In article <1jlbv9INNp6i@gap.caltech.edu> laurence@cco.caltech.edu (Dustin Lee Laurence) writes:
>ayresr@gtewd.mtv.gsc.gte.com (Rich Ayres) writes:
>
>>...So, what, in general, is the credibility rate of fish
>>stores?
>

Depends on the fish store.  Pets Mart or DoctorX (local chains) you can 
imagine, but there are plenty of very knowledgeable people working in fish 
stores.  A few good indications are the state of the tanks, the condition  
of the fish, and the presence of decent looking display/show tanks.  Alot
of shops (atleast in the Atlanta area) are catering to a very large
mini-reef market, and most have good looking, intelligently designed
reef tanks.  Also, the variety of both fresh and salt water fish/inverts 
can indicate that the people ordering the fish know what the heck they
are doing. 


>Remember when Hitler promised Neville Chamberlain "peace in our time?"
>(Speaking from the marine side of the hobby)
>-- 
>Dustin Laurence       "As sensitive and broad-minded humans, we must never


-- 
Jonathan R. Edwards                       "The pain of war can not exceed
gt6441c@prism.gatech.edu                   the woe of aftermath..."  
Georgia Institute of Technology            (Turpxb)         - Led Zepplin  
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: jason@lanai.cs.ucla.edu (Jason Rosenberg)
Subject: Re: (M) Adding fish...
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 93 18:01:26 GMT

sdebol@tsp.med.umn.edu (Steven Debol (Nelson)) writes:

>I would like to add a racoon butterfly.  Can anyone
>tell me how they do?  It is my understanding that it is difficult
>to get butterflies to eat in general--is the racoon especially
>finicky?  Any comments on racoons would be much appreciated.  Also
>I just read a post tonight that said butterflies prefer to be
>paired--is that the case for these as well?

I once bought a pair of racoons.  The bigger harrassed the smaller one
quite a bit for the first few days.  Unfortunately, the smaller one died
within 2 days (I'm don't think because of harassment).  He was a little
listless from the start, never did eat.  The other one, on the other hand
was a big eater, as long as I had him.  He would only eat live food, though,
in my experience.  Brine shrimp and tubifex.

I too have seen butterflies in pairs in the wild, but I don't think that 
all butterfly species have that tendency.  The one's I've seen exhibiting 
this behavior tend to be some of the very largest species, which I have
also seen do well in captivity in pairs.  However, most aquarium sized
butterflies are not mature and may not be prone to pairing off....
-- 
Jason Rosenberg                           Computer Science Department
jason@cs.ucla.edu                         University of California
{uunet,rutgers,ucbvax}!ucla-cs!jason      Los Angeles, CA  90024
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,rec.pets
From: spass@or.credence.com (Spass Stoiantschewsky)
Subject: Re: cichlids
Organization: Credence Systems Corp. Beaverton, OR
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 20:57:01 GMT

In some article johnh@tigger.rl.af.mil (John Hawthorne) could have written:
>I would say that this is normal behaviour for an upside down cat.
>Mine is about 10 years old and has always liked to hang out in one
>spot next to an object of some sort, often an air duct.  I'll bet
>that if you give yours a nicer place to hide, such as under a rock,
>you will hardly ever see it.

no kidding.

	~spass


-- 
spass otto stoiantschewsky	"mmm...i think it's time to flush the goldfish"
			put this subject in your kill file