HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: bh437292@longs.LANCE.ColoState.Edu (Basil Hamdan)
Subject: 89 Ford Taurus chronic stalling problem
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 21:10:38 GMT
Reply-To: bh437292@lance.colostate.edu
Organization: Engineering College, Colorado State University

I have an 89 3.0 V6 Ford Taurus, and I am wondering
if other owners out there have had a similar experience.
The car starts fine, but it has a stalling problem that no one
seems to be able to diagnose.  I did a complete tune up, then
I took it to a highly qualified shop but they cannot find
the problem unless it is "acting up" as they call it.
"Acting up", is when I go on long trips, especially in the mountains
(I live at 5000 ft above sea level), and when the temperature
is high (not the engine temp, the ambiant temp), then my car
for some reason starts to gradually lose power, and then 
stalls completely and I have to wait by the side of the road for
a half-hour or more for the car temp to cool down before it 
would start again.  (the engine temperature gauge would have to go
from a the middle of the indicator- still well within the "normal"
range- to about the quarter indicator range).
When the technicians hooked it up to the diagnostic machine
all fuel pressure coming out of the fuel pump tested fine,
but the buzz coming out of there was a little louder than ususal.
Everything in the car tests at the regular settings, because
when I go to the shop, I cannot recreate the conditions under
which my car fails and the mechanics say they cannot help on
intermittent problems unless the problem manifests itself when
they are testing it.
My questions are, what is the best way to diagnose such an intermittent
problem, and if it is not possible to diagnose it for sure has
anyone else had a similar experience (especially on a Taurus),
and is it a good idea to go ahead and replace the fuel pump
and take a risk that the problem would be solved (keep in mind
that that gamble is going to be costly) ???

Thanks for all your opinions,

Basil 

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: harling@miki.pictel.com (Dan Harling)
Subject: Re: The Gasaver: what's the deal
Organization: PictureTel Corporation
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 21:43:44 GMT

In article <53110037@hpsgm2.sgp.hp.com> leonglaw@hpsgm2.sgp.hp.com (Lawrence LEONG) writes:
>Sounds like "Cheetah 911".  Costs S$140 here (approx US$88).  Claims you can
>save 10% fuel, increase power, lower engine operating temp (hmm, starting to
>sound fishy) etc...
>
>they had a demo setup with 2 spark plugs, with a wimpy spark from the "normal"
>plug, and a strong sizzling spark from the "assisted" one.  The sales guy
>couldn't give any tech details but it looks like some capacitive circuit in
>this gizmo.  He also refused to let me look at the insides of his demo box.
>I wonder why.  

It could be a number of things.  It could be a capacitive circuit, or
it could even be a wire with a wide gap in it, to produce higher peak
voltages.  MSD's ignition box fires several sparks in succession,
instead of one big one.
____________________________________________________________________________
Daniel A. Harling                        (harling@pictel.com)
PictureTel Corp.             Opinions expressed are not necessarily those of
Peabody, MA  01960                 PictureTel, but they ought to be!
From: sl0mv@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: UP
Date: 10 Nov 92 01:32:22 GMT
Article-I.D.: cc.1992Nov9.193222.60583
Distribution: rec
Organization: Utah State University

In article <1992Nov9.192217.60576@cc.usu.edu>, sl0mv@cc.usu.edu writes:
> In article <YOUNG.92Nov6103420@kuwait.whizkids>, young@whizkids (Mark Young) writes:
>> 
>> I am interested in putting a 5spd manual transmission in a `61
>> Chevy Truck.  I currently have a 3spd manual which causes the 
>> truck to run at high RPM's during highway driving.  I would 
>> love to convert to a 5spd manual.  I suspect that the 5spd 
>> manuals that Chevrolet has been putting in there full sized
>> trucks the last few years might work (with a few mods).  Can
>> anyone tell me where to start.  How can I determine bolt pattern,
>> transmission length, etc.  Are there books that might give 
>> me adequate cross reference data?  Has anyone seen an article 
>> concerning this mod?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Mark Young
> 
>     Hi I'm in Utah and I think I can help you.  I put a chevy 350 and 4spd
> transmission into a 62 international scout.  There are two types of chevy 4
> spds. before 69'(10 inches long) and 69' to date (12 and a half inches long)
> the only difference between the two is the diameter of the hole in the
> bellhousing.  I understand that 5 spds work the same.  So all you need is the
> correct bellhousing, flywheel, clutch, and starter(which with chevy are pretty
> much all the same) to go with whatever tranny you want. the bellhousing to
> engine bolt pattern has been the same on chevy small blocks and vortex 6's for
> 40 years so dont worry about that. get a catalog from Advance Adapters they
are the best when it comes to engine or tranny swaps.  You can find there
address in and 4 wheel type magazine.  I hope that this helped a little.
> 
> 
> joe 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: Electronic ignition?
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 92 06:15:03 GMT

Dave Williams (dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us) wrote:
: 
:  The Spitfire engine is distinctly agricultural - long stroke, small
: bearings, small ports and valves, wimpy main caps and rods, etc.  The
: transmission ain't so hot either.  If the car develops serious engine or
: trans trouble, you might want to consider simply dropping in one of the
: newer Japanese twincam fours with a five speed.  I had spec'd out a swap
: before some geek knocked on my door and asked if the car was for sale,
: then made me an offer I couldn't refuse.

I'm relieved to hear that the "geek" saved a wonderful car from being
valdalized & debased.

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
Don't blame me; I voted for Perot!                hinzd@picard.med.ge.com 
SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.             Pherrets are Phun!!!
From: frankb@hpsad.sad.hp.com (Frank Ball)
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 18:45:45 GMT
Subject: Re: Coasting with an automatic
Organization: HP Signal Analysis Division - Rohnert Park, CA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

In rec.autos.tech, gsu0001@uxa.ecn.bgu.edu (Michael Linden) writes:

*     I'm looking for input on possible problems with putting automatic
*   transmissions in neutral to coast up to stop signs and lights. I have
*   heard that this can be bad for an automatic transmission because once
*   disengaged from the engine (neutral), the tranny fluid is no longer
*   pumped through the transmission cooler causing the transmission to run
*   hotter.

If there was no fluid running through the transmission the main problem
would be destroying the bearings.  Most (damn near all) automatic 
transmissions have the oil pump on the input shaft of the transmission.
As long as the engine is running fluid is being pumped and circulated
through the transmission.  The engine will drop to idle when shifted
into neutral, so the oil pressure may drop somewhat,  but it's probably
ok because there is no load on the transmission in neutral.  

*      The reason I am asking is because my Mom likes doing this because she
*    has noticed how much less effort is required by the brakes to stop the
*    car (not fighting the engine at lower speeds).

It is probably illegal, but I won't tell.

Frank Ball   1UR-M          frankb@hpsad.sad.hp.com
Hewlett Packard             (707) 794-4168 work, (707) 538-3693 home
1212 Valley House Drive     (707) 794-3844 fax, IT175, XT350, Seca 750
Rohnert Park CA 94928-4999  KC6WUG, AMA, Dod #7566, I'm the NRA.
From: johns@hp-ptp.ptp.hp.com (John Schubert)
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 22:29:44 GMT
Subject: FOR SALE: Turbo kit for Mazda 12A
Organization: HP Pacific Technology Park - Sunnyvale, Ca.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech


Cartech turbo for Mazda 12A rotory.  Modified Holley has Weber power plate.
Set-up for "rallye" ported engine. Gives about 240 HP with 8# of boost.  Holley
needs rebuild.  $400.  
--

******************************************************************************
*   John Schubert;  Hewlett Packard, ISD    |  The opinions contained herein *
*                   Sunnyvale, California   |  are my own, because nobody    *
*   INTERNET:   jes@hpamsh4.hp.com          |  else wants them...            *
*   CompuServe: >INTERNET:jes@hpamsh4.hp.com|                                *
*   HPDESK:     HP2200/40                   | "Ban low performance drivers,  *
*                                           |  not high performance cars."   *
******************************************************************************
From: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: GM Truck Differentials
Date: 6 Nov 92 19:44:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Ye Olde Bailey BBS - Houston, TX - 713-520-1569
Reply-To: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 

@#All of this damage should be convered under warranty.
What should I insist !@#the dealer check before I accept the vehicle
back as !@#fully repaired?

Hi,
        1st I heard of that kind of a problem....have em check all that
        you mentioned...including tailshaft of trans.
                                                                Don


 * SLMR 2.1a * I'm too poor to have a TAG!
                                                                                                                    
----
Ye Olde Bailey BBS
Houston,Texas
Node 1: 1 713 520 1569
yob@sccsi.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sl0mv@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Help. Wheel-hop in four-by mode.
Date: 9 Nov 92 19:38:57 MDT
Organization: Utah State University

In article <1992Nov6.141758.1@acad2.alaska.edu>, asdch@acad2.alaska.edu writes:
> My truck gets this nasty wheel hop in four wheel drive when I try to drive
> in dry sand and certain types of snow.  When I let off the throttle, the 
> shaking stops.  It is a pretty hideous feeling in this truck-it feels liks
> the axles are going to fall out, or break.  The truck is an '81 Chevy 3/4 ton
> with standard/stock size tires, the stock suspension consists of a full-
> floating 10-bolt front-end, a 14-bolt (full floater also?) rear-end, and
> the stock whimpy stock NP 208 sends power to them both.  The engine is a 350.
> 	The question is what can I do to fix it/make the wheel hop go away
> without spending big bucks?  And If I ignore the shaking while off-roading,
> will I destroy the truck?  Thanks in advance for any help/suggestions.  
> E-mail or post.  Dave.  


It sounds like to me to be a problem either with your u joints or your springs
in the front end. Check you front driveline first because they tend to be a
weak link in the front wheel drive assynbly.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bohdan@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (bohdan.l.bodnar)
Subject: Re: 89 Ford Taurus chronic stalling problem
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 04:44:45 GMT

In article <Nov10.211038.76057@yuma.ACNS.ColoState.EDU> bh437292@lance.colostate.edu writes:
>I have an 89 3.0 V6 Ford Taurus, and I am wondering
>if other owners out there have had a similar experience.
>The car starts fine, but it has a stalling problem that no one
>seems to be able to diagnose.  I did a complete tune up, then

etc...

>When the technicians hooked it up to the diagnostic machine
>all fuel pressure coming out of the fuel pump tested fine,
>but the buzz coming out of there was a little louder than ususal.
>Everything in the car tests at the regular settings, because
>when I go to the shop, I cannot recreate the conditions under
>which my car fails and the mechanics say they cannot help on
>intermittent problems unless the problem manifests itself when
>they are testing it.
>My questions are, what is the best way to diagnose such an intermittent
>problem, and if it is not possible to diagnose it for sure has
>anyone else had a similar experience (especially on a Taurus),
>and is it a good idea to go ahead and replace the fuel pump
>and take a risk that the problem would be solved (keep in mind
>that that gamble is going to be costly) ???
>
>Thanks for all your opinions,
>
>Basil 
>


For 1992(?) Ford has a data capture tool which plugs into the computer.  During
driving, when the driver experiences "the problem," he/she activates the tool
and it captures sensor readings, computer outputs, etc.  The stored data is
then used by an expert system to diagnose the problem.

I have no experience with this system -- I only saw a demo tape of it.  At
least one dealer in my area shelled out kilodollars to purchase this system.

Bohdan Bodnar
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Need Rotary Engine (12A)
From: Karl Nordstrom <KXN2@psuvm.psu.edu>
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 12:42:26 EST
Organization: Penn State University

seanr@lobo.rmhs.colorado.edu (Sean Reifschneider) says:
>
>blu@cellar.org (Dan Reed) writes:
>>
>>smith@ctron.com (Larry Smith) writes:
>>>
>>>jpmcmill@acs.ucalgary.ca
>>>>
>>>>Help! I just found out that the engine on my 1983 RX7 just bit
>>>>it, no compression.  I am looking for an independent aftermarket
>>>
>>>It has been alleged to me that a complete engine rebuild for a Mazda rotary
>>>is something like $150 down at your Mazda engine shop.  I'd be curious to
>>
>>Hate to tell you this.... Rotarys have no compression.  Try it...
>
>Hate to tell you this, but they DO.  It still has intake, compression and
>exhaust phases, it's just that it does them all at the same time.

Just how does a rotory compress its fuel?
From: boutzev@lcaohp2.epfl.ch (Lubomir Boutzev)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: TOYOTA 4WD COLD WEATHER TRANSMISSION NOISE
Keywords: transmission, toyota
Date: 10 Nov 92 09:16:09 GMT
Reply-To: boutzev@lcaohp1.epfl.ch
Organization: AI crazed sickos.

In article <27347@oasys.dt.navy.mil>, byerly@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Michael Byerly) writes:
|> 
|>     I own a 1991 Toyota 4wd p/u truck with a 5 speed transmission.
|> In cold weather (approx. 40 degrees or less) the trans makes a dry
|> "whirring" noise which generally quiets down when the truck warms up.

I've had the same problem with my manual transmission1991 LandCruiser long chassis.
It was solved by using ATF fluid in the box.
Sounded curious when the dealer told me to change the transmission oil with ATF
for the winter and then back to hypoide for the summer. (BTW winter here means
-10 to -25 degrees celsius in the mountains, not really cold compared polar temps.)
Anyhow it works and twice a year I'm into heavy transmission oil change.
WATCH OUT FOR THE LIMITED SLIP DIFFERENTIALS IF ANY !!!
They are also a bit noisy when cold BUT never never put anything else than
LSD oil inside or they might get damaged and it costs.
Hope this helps.
L. Boutzev.
From: george@mech.seas.upenn.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: New tranny needed?
Date: 12 Nov 92 19:21:21 GMT
Organization: University of Pennsylvania, Mechanical Engineering

:

:a front-wheel drive car, you will have to remove the engine and transmission
:both to do anything for it.  
:

some ( i think most ) front drive trannys come out the bottom, without
removing the engine.
--
  /   george jefferson
\/ *  george@mech.seas.upenn.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bjm@umnstat.stat.umn.edu (Bret J. Musser)
Subject: Re: New Gasoline Ripoff
Organization: School of Statistics, University of Minnesota
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 14:53:52 GMT

In article <1992Nov6.143213.25708@mailer.cc.fsu.edu> sdb@redbeard.physics.fsu.edu (Scott D. Berry) writes:
>In article <Bx9C7B.1As@ssesco.com> nau@ssesco.com (William Nau) writes:
>>I read somewhere (could be wrong) that there would be a significant
>>reduction in C02 emissions.
>
>Probably CO.
>
>>  However, there is a large increase in
>>some sort of organic emissions.  These emissions were to be just
>
>Probably hydrocarbons (HC's).
>
>>as harmful as C02, but because they are not classified that way under
>>law, we are not suppoed to believe it.  I understand that some farm
>>lobbiest got the law changed so that they organic emissions wouldn't
>>be counted.
>>
>>>You are wrong -- alcohol is more expensive than the gas.
>>>Remember the actual cost of the gasoline is NOT the ~$1.20
>>>you pay for it at the station.  My memory tells me that the
>>>actual cost (out of the refinery) is closer to $.60-$.80/gal.
>>>(or even less, since there are typically $.30 in taxes).
>>

    The entire story about ethanol in gasoline is documented in an EPA
 study.  Environmentally, the impact in using ethanol is to reduce tailpipe
 emissions (taking into account changes in fuel economy, etc.).  However, 
 adding alcohol will increase evaporative emissions.  Evaporative emissions 
 come when you fill your tank with gas, or when the car is just sitting 
 and gas evaporates out of your carb, etc.  During winter, the evaporative
 emissions aren't so bad.  But during summertime, the result will be a net
 loss for the environment.  That is why the EPA requires that ethanol 
 be used only during the winter months.

    The cost of ethanol ready-to-add is about $3.00 per gallon (or so).  It
 translates into a 5 cents per gallon increase in the pump price.

    Now, if you also look at the cost (money and environmentally) of growing
 ethanol (from wheat or whatever) the true value of ethanol goes down even
 more.  Minnesota has passed a law making the use of ethanol based gasolines
 mandatory state-wide by 1997.  This is nothing but a public-works act for 
 farmers because the net result will be an increase in damaging emissions.
 Do not blame the oil companies or the EPA: they have issued the reports 
 stating this.

 Bret.



-- 
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
      Bret J. Musser -- University of Minnesota  -- Dept. of Statistics  
"The more perfect civilization is, the less occasion has it for government..."
					    (Thomas Paine, The Rights of Man)
From: walkerr@bigwpi.WPI.EDU (Robert A Walker)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Toyota V-6
Date: 10 Nov 92 20:16:02 GMT
Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute
NNTP-Posting-Host: bigwpi.wpi.edu


I have a question.  In my last edition of Four Wheeler, they did a test of 
the new toyota mid size pickup, t-100 or something like that.  Now what 
confused me was that it has a Single overhead cam and it is a V-6.  Does
this mean that only 3 cylinders have valves that actually work, or is the
cam somehow suspended over the intake manifold.  I'm really confused, either
that or i missed the boat.
From: bakc@giraffe.ru.ac.za (MR KR COMAN)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Rear Brakes locking
Date: 5 Nov 92 13:12:38 GMT
Organization: Rhodes University, Grahamstown, South Africa

In article <720766886.AA00000@blkcat.UUCP> Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory) writes:
>From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
>Subject: Rear Brakes locking
>Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1992 16:06:27 -0500
> AH> On my 1984 BMW 318i, the rear brakes lock up under any emergency 
> AH> manouver.  
> AH> Even when the road is dry.  I have brand new tires and have done the 
> AH> following work done on the car to no avail:
> AH> 
> AH> New brake drums on rear
> AH> New brake shoes on rear 
> AH> New brake cylinders on rear
> AH> New brake pads on the front 
> AH> A new brake force regulator for the rear brakes.  (none exists for the
> AH> front brakes).  
>
>Suggest you call your BMW zone office and speak to one of the factory techs
>about it.
>

I've heard that BMW's of this age have been known to experience brake lock-up
caused by the load sensor (?) plumbed into the duel-circuit system -- it'
s basically a ball-valve in a tube that is intended to close off one part 
of the system in event of a fluid leak.  I only mention it 'cos there was a 
local instance of a BMW developing momentary rear brake lock, getting worse 
until the brakes were ON full time!  The problem was traced to this item.

Contacting BMW is a good idea.  I'm sure their service centers know about 
it.

Good luck,
Keith 


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"Condemning a research report on the basis of :  Dept of Management
 invalid and unreliable methodology is the    :  Rhodes University
 cheapest shot in the book."                  :  Grahamstown, 6140
                                              :  Rep of South Africa
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
From: rlr@acsu.buffalo.edu (Raymond Roskwitalski)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Oil out Exhaust?
Date: 9 Nov 92 00:07:38 GMT
Organization: UB
Originator: rlr@bromine.chem.buffalo.edu


I have a 1981 Omega oldsmobile, and I too have found burnt oil emitting from 
the exhaust pipe. I also have observed this coming from the interface where the
mainfold pipes attach to the piston housing. Have the other people observed this?
My neighboor suggested that the gasket has become worn causing oil to seep into
the pistons, although I have not inspected my sparks for soot. It seems plausible.
I would be interested to hear if any one else sees a different cause of this
problem.

Raymond Roskwitalski, Jr.

rlr@bromine.chem.buffalo.edu
From: paul@sdd.hp.com (Paul K Johnson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 240Z-280Z Problems
Date: 13 Nov 92 19:00:07 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Corporate Engineering
NNTP-Posting-Host: hp-sdd.sdd.hp.com

In article <4170095@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com< donrm@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Don Montgomery) writes:
<Look for a '75 or '76 280Z.  Last of the best.  Anything later is a 
<compromise.

I don't see any advantage in a '75 or '76 over a '77 or '78.  The
'77/'78 had 30 to 50 more HP with only changes to the EFI box.  Minor
tweaks with the hoses under the hood and minor trim improvements were
also nice.

paul
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
From: norcott_bill@tandem.com (Bill Norcott)
Subject: Re: Craftsman Timing Light (Inductive vs Advance)
Reply-To: norcott_bill@tandem.com (Bill Norcott)
Organization: Tandem Computers, Inc.
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 22:16:12 GMT

In article <1dp39kINNbcb@uwm.edu>, rom@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Rommy) writes:
|> I have recieved $100 of certificates from Sears for their out of court 
|> settlement.  With the $100 I plan to but a Craftsman Timing Light but I have
|> never used a timing light & don't know which is the best type to purchase.  

They also are advertising $10 off their $49.99 chrome plated timing
light.   Not sure how it differs from the two models you mentioned.

-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------|
Bill Norcott			GUARDIAN POSIX project
Tandem Computers, Inc.		
10600 N. Tantau Avenue		PHONE:  (408) 285-3253
Cupertino, CA   95014		EMAIL: norcott_bill@tandem.com