HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: nadel@attatash.aero.org (Miriam Nadel)
Subject: Re: one of a kind silk... I'm afraid
Organization: /usr/lib/news/organization
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 15:36:35 GMT

In article <55340005@hpscit.sc.hp.com> selina@hpscit.sc.hp.com (Selina Fong) writes:
>
>Silk has been around for thousands of years and dry cleaning, maybe 
>the last 60 years.  I personal believe dry cleaning silk is a conspiracy
>put together by dry cleaning stores and clothing mfg :-).

Dry cleaning has also been around for thousands of years.  Haven't you
ever heard of fuller's earth, used for dry cleaning in ancient Egypt?

Some silk is handwashable and some is spun too thinly to wash by hand.

Dry cleaners aren't always out to get you.  Mine recommended I handwash
a linen dress which is clearly labeled "dry clean only."

Miriam Nadel
Xref: sparky alt.sewing:2964 rec.crafts.textiles:1788
From: ljensen@ferris.cray.com (Laura Jensen)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing,rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Re: Enviromentally-conscious sewing
Date: 2 Oct 92 20:00:36 GMT
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.

In article <lcp4uoINNdhh@boogie.cs.utexas.edu> swisher@cs.utexas.edu (Janet M. Swisher) writes:
>If you are concerned about pesticides in your food, stay away from
>anything that contains cottonseed oil.  Since cotton is not a food
>crop, the growers are allowed to use nastier pesticides that are not
>allowed on food crops.  But then they turn around and sell the seeds
>for cottonseed oil, which is used in many pre-prepared foods because
>it's cheaper than many other vegetable oils.  (Of course, if you're
>really gung-ho on organic food, you're not buying Twinkies anyway :-)
>
I was told by a person who needed to limit his intake of pesticides 
that fast-food french fries were to be avoided precisely because they
were fried in cottonseed oil.  Another friend, also wary of pesticides,
related that often peanut crops are rotated with cotton, and may therefore
contain large amounts of the same pesticides. (Is this true?)

Sorry for continuing the digression... This whole discussion has been
quite interesting.  I may even try Kay's Crisco idea to see if I can 
get any subtle resist-dying effects!  (One of these days...)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: euafri@eua.ericsson.se (Fredrik stman)
Subject: Re: neckline gaping open
Reply-To: euafri@eua.ericsson.se
Organization: Ellemtel Telecom Systems Labs, Stockholm, Sweden
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 08:45:58 GMT

Karen L. Frisa writes:

>I've been working on the muslin for the bodice of my bridesmaid's
>dress, and I'm finding that the neckline is gaping open.  It's kind of
>a smooth sweetheart neckline, so it's fairly low-cut.

>I'm small breasted (A cup), so am not exactly filling it out.

>The extra fabric seems to be at the center of the neckline.
>If you drew a horizontal line from the bottom of one armhole to
>the bottom of the other, the extra fabric would fall above it.

It seems to me that you have lost (part of) the upper bust darts. Maybe
you started from a casual/easy-fitting block/sloper. Anyway, you have
to take in more in these darts the deeper you make the decolletage
(I've been advised to drop french words :-). Of course, though, you
don't have to *keep* the darts above the bust, you can move them to the
lower darts, especially for an A-cup bust. This manoeuver will make the
neckline on the pattern/sloper/muslin narrower.

      | |          | |                     | |        | |          
      |  \        /  |                     | |        | |          
      |   \      /   |                    /   \      /   \         
     /     `____'     \                  /     `____'     \        
   _/                  \_              _/                  \_      
   \                    /    ===>      |                    |      
    |                  |               |                    |      
    |    ^        ^    |                \    ^        ^    /       
    |    H        H    |                |    H        H    |       
     \  | |      | |  /                 |   / \      / \   |       
     |  | |      | |  |                 |  |   |    |   |  |       

Note that you cannot just widen the lower darts, you must make the
neckline narrower as well. So, try making darts from the bust points up
towards the neckline until it fits. Then lay the fabric/pattern flat
keeping only these upper darts (i.e. cut open the lower darts). The
lower darts will widen, and this is your *new* pattern. You might want
to move the lower darts around, especially for a larger bust. I hope
this made sense.

---
         ______                     _~
        (_/_ _  _  _/) _  . /)     / ) , _/)     _
       __/ _/(_(/_(/__/(_/_/Z_    (_/_/)_/__/))_(I_/)_

Xref: sparky alt.sewing:2893 rec.crafts.textiles:1746
From: rrah@troi.cc.rochester.edu (Runa Rahman)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing,rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Re: Enviromentally-conscious sewing
Date: 29 Sep 92 02:30:57 GMT
Organization: University of Rochester (Rochester, NY)

Thanks for the interesting and informative article, Kay!  :)

In article <1992Sep28.174350.7146@iscsvax.uni.edu> klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes:
>
>Cotton is one of the most pesticide-intensive crops grown in the US.

What about in other countries?  Organic farmers?  Our ancestors have been
getting clothes made pesticide-free since the beginning of civilization.
 
>Ok, now you've got the cotton grown.  In ginning the cotton, short fibers
>can be easily tossed into the air and contribute to lung disease in the
>workers.  Ditto during weaving. 

Now this I've never heard of!!  What about crafters spinning and weaving -
do they suffer, too, or is it just in industrial production?

>Don't have a good feel for silk production, but unless those
>mulberry leaves are a real anomaly, the production of silkworm feed is also
>associated with a certain amount of herbicide use.

But stopping the use of herbicide should be PART of the plan.

>Of course, there's the associated problems of bleaching and dyeing
>fabrics -- dioxins and some carcinogens...

Use it unbleached!  Unbleached cotton is my favorite fabric (very common
in Bangladesh - hand woven, too :)  Or use natural dyes.  Or naturally
colored fibers.

>As to biodegradability, you're right-- polyester, acetate, acrylic and
>nylon are essentially non-degradable.  But NOTHING degrades in a landfill

As I said before, the effort would be have to be in several areas, including
seeking alternatives to landfills.

>I'm sure not advocating the return of the cast-iron polyester pantsuit, but
>I do think that changing our attitudes to "style" and "fashion" and being
>willing to accept the slightly lesser comfort of 50-50 blends might go a
>long ways towards getting us out of some of our current environmental mess.

Wait a minute - I'm lost!  How does wearing 50-50 blends help?!
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: MAHE@YaleVM.YCC.Yale.Edu
Subject: Re: "Seams Great" question
Organization: Yale University
Date: Thu, 01 Oct 92 18:06:53 EDT

Probably, what you're doing wrong is that you keep pulling on the
thing as you're stitching, which is what causes it to gather
like elastic (it IS quite stretchy).
The idea is to pull GENTLY on the tape to see the direction of the
curl, then release and not ever give it a hint of a pull again.
If you have the curl going in the proper direction, it's quite
easy to maintain the tape folded over the fabric edge, and
to stitch all 3 layers together.  If you don't get the curl
right, the tape will fight you all the way, which is why it
pays to figure it out.  But don't pull...
 
Also, I usually use a step-zigzag stitch to stitch it down.
A straight stitch would be just about useless, and a plain zigzag
while better wouldn't hold the layers together enough I think,
you get better anti-fray action when each zigzag has those extra
little stitches on the way.  With this method, I usually don't
have any trouble even if the fabric is fraying a bit already.
I trim the grossly excessive hanging threads, and stuff the
rest into the tape fold, they get held with the fabric and
behave fine.
 
If your seam is frayed all the way into the seam, it's too late...
 
Marie-Christine
mahe-marie-christine@yale.edu
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: laura@vuse.vanderbilt.edu (Laura M. Edwards)
Subject: Re: Fabriholics: my story
Organization: Vanderbilt University Space Electronics Research Group
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 22:33:13 GMT

In article <37274@uflorida.cis.ufl.edu> george@webb.psych.ufl.edu (Stephanie George) writes:
-
-Well, I went into Wal-Mart Saturday to buy ONE SPOOL OF BROWN THREAD.  When 
-suddenly, these three *HUGE* bolts of simply divine velveteen tackled me,
-snatched my purse and held my checkbook to my head and held me captive.


Oh, how wonderful!  What a nice break from dissertating!  Why don't you 
send this to one of the sewing/crafts/etc magazines and get it published?

Laura


Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: cowpatti@netcom.com (Patricia Mae Anthony)
Subject: Re: Weights Instead of Pins
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 01:16:57 GMT

In article <1a7l3lINNguc@roundup.crhc.uiuc.edu> mary@uicsl.csl.uiuc.edu (Mary E. Allison) writes:
>deberry@mcnc.org (Mercedes Deberry) writes:
>
>>Has anyone out there used weights instead of pins?  I am considering trying
>>weights becouse pins 1) leave holes in some fabrics and 2) on hard, stiff
>>fabrics like denim, it is hard to pin and causes me to tear my pattern.
>>Any suggestions?
>
>Yeah -- one -- don't BUY weights.  Look in your kitchen cupboard.  See
>those cans of soup and tuna fish and cat food and ...
>
>There are MANY things around the house that you can use for weights,
>and I'm sure some of you have more ideas than I do.

Chocolate truffles still in their fancy little papers work good...

CowPatti
-- 

@>-`,-->  @>-`,-->  @>-`,-->  @>-`,-->  @>-`,-->  @>-`,-->  @>-`,--> @>-`,-->
          (__)        (__)        (__)      ^
          (oo)        (oo)        (oo)     /
      _____\/__________\/__________\/_____/        D A N C E S 
     /  /\ / /      /\ / /      /\ / /
    ^  /  * /      /  * /      /  * /                W I T H
      / ___/      / ___/      / ___/     
 *----/W     *----/W     *----/W                   H O O V E S
     /  \        /  \        /  \
    /   /       /   /       /   /
   ^    ^      ^    ^      ^    ^
<--`,-<@  <--`,-<@  <--`,-<@  <--`,-<@  <--`, <@  <--`,-<@  <--`,-<@  <--`,-<@

Newsgroups: alt.sewing,rec.crafts.textiles
From: chantal@osf.org (Chantal Eide)
Subject: sewing armhole in Norwegian sweater
Organization: Open Software Foundation - Research Institute
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 20:32:11 GMT

I have finished knitting a Norwegian sweater and the
instructions are to knit the body as a tube, then
reinforce, then cut armholes and sew in sleeves.  They
say to machine zig-zag around where you will cut the
armhole slit.

My problem is that I can sew about an inch before the
bobbin thread gets all caught up.  I have an old Viking
which is great for everything else.  Does anyone have
any suggestions?  Put paper or fabric underneath?  Is
there a tension switch for the bobbin thread?  (Guess
I should look in the instructions for that.)

Chantal Eide


-- 
--------------------------------------------
Chantal Eide (chantal@osf.org)
--------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: lcornell@carson.u.washington.edu (Linda D. Cornell)
Subject: Halloween Costume Suggestions
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 21:05:00 GMT

Hi there,
I've been making costumes for years for various old and young family
members....but I've finally run out of ideas for my uncle.  He will wear
it around Halloween to work at the catholic church's Bingo parlor in New
Jersey.

So far he has been a ballerina, Hulk Hogan, a clown, and Christopher
Columbus.  Any suggestions?  So far this year I've made 5 children's
costumes and I have 4 others to finish and mail out.  He's worse than the
kids about wanting a costume, but he never knows what he wants to be -
that's a problem I rarely have with the kids! 

Thanks in advance for any suggestions!

Linda Cornell
aka The Great Pumpkin
Xref: sparky alt.sewing:2916 rec.crafts.textiles:1762
From: whitaker@qut.edu.au
Newsgroups: alt.sewing,rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Re: Enviromentally-conscious sewing
Date: 30 Sep 92 10:21:25 EST
Organization: Queensland University of Technology

Kay: with respect to growing cotton and environmental stuff: isn't it good for 
the ozone to have cotton growing? 
Beth
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: carolp@techbook.com (Carolyn Peterson)
Subject: Re: burn test (was Sewing room recommendations)
Organization: TECHbooks of Beaverton Oregon - Public Access Unix
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 03:55:20 GMT

MAHE@YaleVM.YCC.Yale.Edu writes:

>In article <1992Sep27.011912.24474@techbook.com>
>carolp@techbook.com (Carolyn Peterson) writes:
> 
>>Cotton, linen or rayon:  Burns quickly with a bright flame, glows
>>after flame is removed, smells slightly sweet, leaves hard, black
>>bead.
> 
>But natural fibers don't leave a hard bead, they leave ash.

Sorry about the error. 

Cotton, linen and rayon:  Burn quickly with a bright flame, glow after
flame is removed, smell like burning paper, leave soft gray ash.
                             ^^^^^^^^^^^^^        ^^^^^^^^^^^^^



-- 
Carolyn Peterson          
carolp@techbook.COM  
(No affiliation with InterCom)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: grants@syacus.acus.oz.au (Grant Sayer)
Subject: Fax number for "Threads Magazine"
Summary: Fax number, Tauton Press
Keywords:  Fax number, subscriptions
Organization: ACUS, Australian Centre for Unisys Software, Sydney AUST.
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 11:46:20 GMT

Does anyone have the FAx number for the "Threads" magazine?  My wife
is interested in subscribing and would like to contact their 
subscription department.  We think that "Taunton Press" are the
publishers.

Thanks in Advance
-- 
Grant Sayer                   ACSnet : grants@syacus.acus.oz
Ph : +61 2 390-1339         Internet : grants@syacus.acus.OZ.AU
Fax: +61 2 390-1391             UUCP : uunet!munnari!syacus.acus.oz.au!grants
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: rrah@troi.cc.rochester.edu (Runa Rahman)
Subject: Re: buttonholes in knits, widening hems
Organization: University of Rochester (Rochester, NY)
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 92 15:25:20 GMT

In article <1992Sep28.084642.5264@newstand.syr.edu> jareed@rodan.acs.syr.edu (Judith Ann Reed) writes:
>What is the secret to getting good buttonholes on a knit?

Gee, I've never had problems before - you could try basting around the 
buttonhole before sewing it so the fabric doesn't shift, and don't use
too closely-spaced stitches.

>pattern books didn't have a pattern for a "parachute top" - 

Are you sure?  I've seen some (I have one).

>How can you widen the bottom of a shirt and have it come out
>evenly long all around?

You must slash the pattern vertically at several places, and spread it
apart.  Join the bottom by a smooth curve.  I would recommend you look
at a book on pattern drafting - even if you never do draft your own 
pattern, you'll learn a lot about how flat pieces of fabric turn into
clothes.

>This group has been really inspiring me
>to sew, which may be a mixed blessing, but it's been fun!

Ha!  I know what to do when I don't want to work on my thesis - read or post on alt.sewing :)
From: sallyh@StarConn.com (Sally Holmes)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Gathering (was gathers in taffeta)
Date: 26 Sep 92 22:54:51 GMT
Organization: Starnet-Public Access UNIX--Los Altos, CA  415-949-3133

I recently found a new (to me) way of gathering that's much easier
than the old pull-up-the-bobbin-thread way. Forgive me if it's widely
known: I'd never met it before...

Inside your seam allowance (because you can't remove the gathering
afterwards), take one stitch and pull the bobbin thread up to the top of
the fabric. Now, pull the bobbin and the top thread out to about the
finished length of the gathering, plus a bit extra. Set your machine to
narrow zigzag and stitch, holding the two threads above and in front of
your presser foot so they get caught under the middle of the zigzag.
That's it! The fabric will pull up behind the presser foot. One end of
the gathering thread is anchored in the fabric, so it can't slip out,
and it's strong, so it won't break.

Does anyone else have any little tricks they'd like to share?

Sally
From: marg@media-lab.media.mit.edu (Margaret Minsky)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Weights
Date: 29 Sep 92 20:48:52 GMT
Distribution: alt.sewing
Organization: /u/marg/.organization

A while ago when I started using weights and a rotary cutter, I posted
that the best weights I found were tape dispensers. We happen to have
a lot of heavy office tape dispensers, which are about 3" by 8", and
have nice thick rubber pads on the bottom. They are pretty expensive,
we got them as a gift from someone who found them on 99 cents closeout
sale...they are usually about $10 so not worth buying for pattern
weights.

It makes me think though...Most regular cans and jars don't have flat
enough bottoms...but has anyone tried cementing rubber or felt pads on
the bottoms? Both of those materials are pretty cheap.
From: slm@cs.arizona.edu (Sandy Miller)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: patterns for tennis gear?
Date: 28 Sep 92 17:20:35 GMT
Organization: U of Arizona, CS Dept, Tucson

In article <lceb2qINNjjt@exodus.Eng.Sun.COM>, maynard@woof.Eng.Sun.COM (Alexandra Rankin) writes:
|> When I was growing up, I remember my mother sewing tennis outfits from
|> common pattern books (vogue, mccalls, etc). But when I went to look for
|> some the other day, they no longer seem to carry these kinds of patterns.
|> Does anyone know of a catalog or source for patterns for tennis gear -
|> primarily outfits, but I'd also be interested in raquet bags, etc.
|> 
|> Thanks,
|> alexandra

I'd be interested, too.  It kills me to pay $40-$50 dollars for a skirt
of about 3/4 yard of fabric.  When I asked at one fabric store, the clerk
suggested looking at the cheerleading skirts.  I found one I liked, with
a V yolk in front and 8 inverted pleats.  I eliminated all but the front
pleat, and used a contrasting color inside the pleat.  Then made a cropped
t-shirt that matches the contrast color.  Looks nice.

The pattern also has a strait yolk with knife pleats variation that I
am going to try.  But no pockets!!  I have tennis panties with pockets,
but I like them in the skirt, too.  I didn't want to try adding them on
the first attempt.  I probably will next time.

But I'd like to see more choices.  I did notice that Streatch-N-Sew had
one tennis skirt/vest/tennis pantie pattern.  But I didn't care for the
skirt.

Please let me know if you find a source.

-sandy
Xref: sparky alt.sewing:2966 rec.crafts.textiles:1789
From: adr@soda.berkeley.edu (Adriana Nicholson)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing,rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Re: environmentally conscious sewing
Date: 3 Oct 1992 00:54:55 GMT
Organization: U.C. Berkeley, CS Undergraduate Association
Distribution: na
NNTP-Posting-Host: soda.berkeley.edu

In article <1992Sep29.171018.15665@u.washington.edu> tabbott@u.washington.edu writes:
>
>Natural doesn't mean safe. 
>

I know that this has nothing to do with sewing, but I couldn't resist the
temptaion of pointing out that things like snake venom, cyanide, lead, etc. 
are also 100% natural, but not 100% safe :-)

adr


Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: shafer@rigel.dfrf.nasa.gov (Mary Shafer)
Subject: Re: Weights Instead of Pins
Organization: NASA Dryden, Edwards, Cal.
	<1992Sep30.011657.18395@netcom.com>
Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1992 02:25:36 GMT

On Wed, 30 Sep 1992 01:16:57 GMT, cowpatti@netcom.com (Patricia Mae Anthony) said:

cp> In article <1a7l3lINNguc@roundup.crhc.uiuc.edu> mary@uicsl.csl.uiuc.edu (Mary E. Allison) writes:

>There are MANY things around the house that you can use for weights,
>and I'm sure some of you have more ideas than I do.

cp> Chocolate truffles still in their fancy little papers work good...

And there's so little to put away when you're done.  Just tidy the papers
into the trash with the fabric scraps.

--
Mary Shafer  DoD #0362 KotFR NASA Dryden Flight Research Facility, Edwards, CA
shafer@rigel.dfrf.nasa.gov                    Of course I don't speak for NASA
 "There's no kill like a guns kill." LCDR "Hoser" Satrapa, gunnery instructor
                       "A kill is a kill."  Anonymous
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: hunt@uadp1.larc.nasa.gov (Linda Hunt)
Subject: Re: Weights Instead of Pins
Organization: NASA Langley Research Center, Hampton, VA  USA
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 20:34:25 GMT

I've recently started using weights.  Cans are okay, but flat ones are easier to
work around.  I use a few strategic pins (e.g. on the grainline, near things I
will need to mark) then fill in with weights.

Linda 
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: vusl@athena.cas.vanderbilt.edu (VU Science Library)
Subject: Re: Sloper Programs
Organization: Vanderbilt University
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 14:29:40 GMT

In article <BvH1rH.p6@csn.org> gwen@teal.csn.org (Gwen) writes:
>
>
>I remember a while back that someone mentioned there was a
>program that cost about $80 that would make slopers.  The
>person said all you needed to do was enter 10 measurements.

>...Anyhow, does anyone remember the name, company, and phone
>number of that program?  Are there better programs out
>their?  Are there any cheaper ones out there that work?
>
>--gwen


Please post this information.  I would be interested, too.
Carlin
--
	Carlin Sappenfield - vusl@athena.cas.vanderbilt.edu
From: charleen@presto.ig.com (Charleen Bunjiovianna)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: neckline gaping open
Date: 1 Oct 92 16:03:03 GMT
Organization: IntelliGenetics, Inc., Mountain View, California USA

In article <16872A74C.GINA@RICEVM1.RICE.EDU> GINA@RICEVM1.RICE.EDU writes:
>In article <1992Sep30.095219.29471@walter.cray.com>
>ljensen@ferris.cray.com (Laura Jensen) writes:
> 
>>Congratulations Karen - you are doing things methodically by trying
>>the fit on a muslin.  Just think about how stressed you would be if
>>you were trying to make these alterations on your expensive
>>(slippery?) "fashion fabric."
> 
>I have a counter-question:  why muslin?  I've been using gingham 

Not necessarily muslin; a "muslin".  "Muslin" is not just a type of
woven cloth; it also means "a prototype of a garment or other cloth
article to be fitted and used as a pattern".

Your gingham is also a "muslin".  Most people use the fabric called
muslin because it's cheap enough that you can throw away your mistakes.
Gingham is a little pricier here in California.

>I definitely agree that doing a bodice in a cheaper fabric to testyour
>alterations before you cut out the real thing is worth the extra effort.

Yup, that's the idea.

Charleen

-- 
"He has the Midas touch. Everything he touches turns into a muffler."
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: carolp@techbook.com (Carolyn Peterson)
Subject: Re: burn test (was Sewing room recommendations)
Organization: TECHbooks of Beaverton Oregon - Public Access Unix
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 1992 01:19:12 GMT

tigger@satyr.Sylvan.COM (Grace Sylvan) writes:

>Will some expert on the burn test (or any other method) please answer
>this question?? I know that 'plastic' fibers melt instead of burning,
>but a better description of how to's would be appreciated by me.


I'm not an expert on burn testing, but I ran across this information
this weekend from an expert who is:


To do a burn test, cut a small piece off.  Light it and observe.  (Do
over an empty metal trash basket or an empty sink) 
 
Acrylic: Melts in flame and leaves a hard, black bead. 
 
Nylon:  Pulls away from flame, burns slowly and melts (will not
continue to burn when flame is removed), smells like celery, leaves a
hard, gray bead. 
 
Silk or wool: Sizzles and burns slowly, curls away from flame, smells
like burning hair, leaves gray ash. 
 
Cotton, linen or rayon:  Burns quickly with a bright flame, glows
after flame is removed, smells slightly sweet, leaves hard, black
bead. 
 
Acetate:  Don't burn.  Use a bit of nail polish remover in a dish.
If it's acetate, it will disintegrate. 
 
 
Mostly from _Power Sewing_ by Sandra Betzina.
-- 
Carolyn Peterson          
carolp@techbook.COM  
(No affiliation with InterCom)
Organization: Network Development, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA