HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: guy@ns.network.com (Guy D'Andrea)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Our house has a polterpuddle
Date: 13 Oct 92 13:09:05 GMT
Organization: Network Systems Corporation

In article <1992Oct12.213919.846465@locus.com> aardvark@locus.com (Warren Usui) writes:
>One bathroom in our recently purchased house (40 years old) has an
>interesting phenomenon.  Every so often, a puddle mysteriously appears
>in the middle of the floor.  There are no signs of leaking plumbing, no
>signs of seepage, and no signs of water condensing off of anything.  We
>would clean up the puddle and the floor will remain bone dry until the
>puddle mysteriously appears days later.  Sometimes the puddle will happen
>one hour after we last checked and found the spot to be dry.
>
>We don't know of anything that can be causing this.  If we have a leak
>somewhere, we would expect it to be slightly damp at some point.  I'm
>not sure how much a plumber can help because most of the time, the
>puddle is not there.
>
>The best explaination I can come up with is that we have a polterpuddle.
>Our phone book does not list anybody who specializes in plumbing and exorcisms.
>-- >Warren Usui aardvark@locus.com uunet!lcc!aardvark
>
How about placing tissue paper all over the floor in there to see if it really
is "not" running from another spot?  That way even if it drys before you get a
chance to see where it comes from, the paper will be wrinkled where dampness 
was???

Second:  You don't have pets do you?  ;-)

-Guy

 guy@nsco.network.com, Guy Dandrea, Network Systems Corp., Mpls. MN 55428,  USA 
                        1-800-328-9108  Fax:(612)424-1736
From: doshay@ursa.arc.nasa.gov (David Doshay)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Staining cedar siding
Date: 14 Oct 92 20:24:46 GMT
Article-I.D.: news.1992Oct14.202446.28432
Organization: NASA-Ames Biocomputation Center

I had my house re-sided with redwood about 2 years ago, and I would
say to stain now and plan to do it again in a year or 2 at the most.
The rain will splash dirt on the house, so any advantage that is
claimed for letting the wood dry out is lost because they must wash 
the house before staining. One coat of stain will not last as long
as a coat of primer followed by paint, but that is really 2 coats too.
I do not argee with those that say if the wood is slightly weathered 
it will soak up more stain and then be better protected. Protect it
before it starts to weather and you will be that much ahead. Of course
I am assuming that the wood you had put up is not real green. The redwood
I used was kiln-dried.

Stain is unquestionably more of a maintenance 'problem' than paint, but you
get to look at all that expensive wood you just installed. There is little
question that everybody will give you more complements on a stain job than
paint. I have read that if you do it now and again in a year that after that
you should be on about a 5 year schedule. We are about to do our 2nd coat,
so I cannot be sure about what has not happened to us yet. 

David		doshay@soma.arc.nasa.gov

The thought police insist I tell you:
my thoughts, not NASA's
From: sheriffp@Software.Mitel.COM (Peter Sheriff)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: cablevision distortion on splitter
Date: 7 Oct 92 16:13:51 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Mitel. Kanata (Ontario). Canada.


   I also have a lot of interference and am using a splitter. Would it be 
better if I got one of those amplified splitters. Would there be any
danger of overloading the input to the television with such a device?

                               Pete
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: dauphin@adobe.com (Kimberly Dauphin)
Subject: How painful are contingency deals?
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: ca
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 17:45:57 GMT

Hi,

I'm planning to upgrade from my condo to a house next
spring/summer.  My condo has increased in value since I bought
it 2.5 years ago, mainly from the improvements I've made in it,
and I recently had it appraised (for refinancing), so I sort of
know that I can get a decent price for it.

My question is this:  Should I sell my condo first, and *then* 
look for a house that fits my budget/needs?  Someone suggested
this as a way to avoid finding the "perfect" house and then
bailing out because I can't sell my condo (or, alternatively,
having to deal with paying two mortgages).

This person said that the only real drawback to selling first,
and then house-hunting and buying later, is that I'd have to
essentially move twice, once out of my condo into an temporaty 
apt, and then from the apt into the new house whenever that happens.

I've heard horror stories about contingency deals that sort of
make me believe that this is a method to consider (even though
I hate moving with a passion).  Any comments from net.wisdom 
out there?  Thanks!
-- 
_____________________________________________________

Kimberly Dauphin	  Adobe Systems Incorporated
dauphin@mv.us.adobe.com	  Mountain View, CA
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Mysterious Hole
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 92 18:26:01 GMT

In article <1992Oct13.030319.10130@netcom.com> greg@netcom.com (Greg Bullough) writes:
>In article <1992Oct12.230933.27795@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie) writes:
>>
>>This is slightly less than 8.5 cubic yards. I would recommend filling it
>>most of the way with gravel or broken cinder block - something cheap and
>>fairly solid - with about two feet of dirt on top. Mound the dirt over; it
>>will settle for several years. Plant a tough grass there, because you'll
>>have to add a little more dirt each year for some time.
>
>How do you get along with your mother-in-law?  :-)

Well, actually you see, we haven't seen her for some time now.

patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | Laser Printer, n;  A xeroxigraphical copying
                    |   machine with additional malfunctioning parts.
                    |                            The Dumpty Dictionary
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: millerj@belize.crd.ge.com (Julia K. Miller)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Building near property line
Date: 15 Oct 92 12:41:18 GMT
Reply-To: millerj@belize.crd.ge.com (Julia K. Miller)
Organization: GE Corporate R&D Center


	I'd check with local construction people to find what the policy
in granting variances is in your area.  They NEVER grant them in our area
unless you can prove "need", i.e. you need to be able to do this or you're
going to die practically.
	Our neighbor planned to put a 6 foot fence around a side patio
so it would have some privacy from the road.  No one objected so he filed
for the variance which cost him about $40.  The reject him because they
said he  didn't "need" to have the fence.  (The ordinance is a maximum
of 4 foot fence in the side or front of a house.)  So he put in shrubs
but was out the $40.  Needless to say he was a little agrivated with the
contractor who was going to put in the fence and told him to file for the
variance assuring him that he could get it.

Julia
From: darrenl@natinst.com (Darren Lilie)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Need advice on textured roof repair.
Date: 7 Oct 92 05:30:12 GMT
Article-I.D.: eagle.1auvq4INN45a
Distribution: usa
Organization: National Instruments, Austin, TX
NNTP-Posting-Host: eagle.natinst.com

I have a textured ceiling(the blown on cottage-cheese looking stuff) and
part of it is coming down around the A/C vents which apparently is pretty
common.  What is a good way to fix this? I saw a patch kit at Home Depot
which was like a little air pump and you mixed the stuff and put it in
this pump and then when you pushed the handle down it would shoot the
textured mixture onto the affected spot.  If I did this it seems like
it would be brighter than the rest of the ceiling because of discoloration.
Any ideas?

Thanks,
Darren
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: mike@fuego.viewlogic.com (Mike Ethier)
Subject: Log Home info request.
Originator: mike@fuego
Organization: Viewlogic Systems, Inc.
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 17:41:19 GMT



I'm considering a log home in the near future.
I visited a distributor of Lincoln Logs. They are located in
Chestertown, N.Y. and in California. They use Eastern White Pine
for their wood, and I like a few of their house plans. I talked to a
distributor of Lincoln Logs and I'm very interested in
these houses, but I need to become more knowledgeable about log
homes in general.

They claimed they are the only log house company that is certified
by some National organization (forgot the name), for water-tightness.
They said that they have sold and have been involved with about
150 different log homes in the Mass area. 

He (distributor) told me that it would cost (roughly):

 (3 x Kit Price)  = Total cost if I did nothing (contractor does it).
 (2.5 x Kit Price)= Total cost if I did some work (like finishing).
 (2 x Kit Price)  = Total cost if I did all work.

That would be a "finished" house with well, septic, appliances, ect...
Move in condition.

Also, I was told building the house takes 4-6 weeks by professionals.
He said their log homes really don't settle. Can this be true, or do
all log homes settle ? He said they now recommend some new product to
apply to the wood (can't remember the name) that it is excellent and
is good for a long time. He said it is expensive -> $30 a gallon.

Their kit prices range from $20,000 up to $71,000. Is that a lot ?
Lincoln Logs has a 100 year limited warranty and uses:
  * Minimum 12 Course Exterior Wall - 8" high x 6" Thick Double T&G,
    Graded logs
  * Owens-Corning Class A Fire Rated Fiberglass Roof Shingles (25 year).
  * Benchmark Doors
  * HURD Windows with Heat Mirror
  * HURD Swinging Patio Doors with Heat Mirror
  * Vetter Sliding Patio Doors  w/HiPro 4 insulated glass
  * Velux skylights

Any comments on the above products ? 

I was wondering if any of you have considered a log home, and what you
found or if you could recommend any log home companies. What questions
should I be asking these companies ? What about heating systems
(ductwork), and things like central vacuum systems ? Due to the
construction methods of log homes, maybe there are features that
cannot be incorporated, when compared to conventional stick built
homes.

Thanks for your time.
-Mike
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Humidifier questions
Date: 9 Oct 92 06:21:11 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <168798F2C.MCMASTER@LSTC2VM.stortek.com> MCMASTER@LSTC2VM.stortek.com (Jim McMaster) writes:
>I am considering adding a humidifier to my gas forced-air furnace.  I
>live in Colorado where the humidity is really low.  I have a 2400 sq ft
>house with a 1200 sq ft basement.  The furnace is accessible, and a
>water supply and drain are nearby.
 
>I have found a variety of "do-it-yourself" units, which feature a
>rotating drum and a pan of water.  These run anywhere from $100-$200.

Here, these tend to run around $70-$80CDN.  Like $50US.

>There is another brand, "Humid Air"(sp?), which uses a perforated
>copper disk in place of the drum.  This costs about $260.

>Another variety sprays water onto a pad, through which air is forced.
>Excess water runs down a drain, so there is no pan of water to grow
>algae, molds and bacteria.  These have no moving parts, so maintenance
>should be lower.

The maintenance of the rotating drums is so low as to make it not
really a concern.  You'll end up replacing the drum pad every year
or two.  Plus a little cleaning.  The other parts will last 5 years
or more.  But a little hot vinegar dunking on the twice-yearly
inspection should make it last even longer.

We didn't have problems with anything growing in the water.  There
was too much hardwater deposits and it was too warm.

Incidentally, according to one book I read, the size hole the
manufacturers recommend that you have to cut in the furnace outlet
is much too large, and causes a considerable proportion of the heat
to recirculate, and you lose a lot of air pressure - screwing up
heat flow balance in the house.  The book recommended leaving the hole
around 2" - the humidifier will still work fine, but the furnace will
be operating more efficiently.

Some people may warn you about water getting into the furnace and
causing premature rusting.  We had one, and didn't notice any such
problems - even when the humidifier was tied into the duct such that
the humid air went through an electrostatic filter.  Just have to
make sure that the thing is set up properly and doesn't leak.

Remember to shut down the water, and empty the tray when you don't
need it.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
From: rusty@cbnewse.cb.att.com (jane.a.horodeck)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: sliding patio door replacement
Keywords: crestline pella anderson marvin worth-it?
Date: 12 Oct 92 16:10:55 GMT
Article-I.D.: cbnewse.1992Oct12.161055.19337
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T


This may be a FAQ but I am in the process of choosing a replacement
for my aluminum sliding glass door.  It is installed on the north
side of the house and it is 8' wide.  I live in the western Chicago 
suburbs and the early predictions are for a >>ccooollllddd<< winter!

I have looked at Crestline, Lincoln, Anderson, Pella, and Marvin 
products.  All are nice but there is a significant difference in
$$ between like products.  A carpenter friend of my neighbors suggested
that when replacing windows/doors/whatever, Pella is the only way
to go.  But their product is also +$500 in cost.  And they have
that goofy screen-inside, movable-panel outside configuration...

So, I ask, would you recommend Crestline as a first choice?  Or should
I not consider anything less for my application?  I would also appreciate
feedback on;
	- outside cladding mandatory?  or a nice feature?
	- low-E option
	
A salesperson at the local home center admitted that Anderson has had
problems in the past with their vinyl cladding pulling apart at seams.


thanks alot!
jane
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: esr@unixhub.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Edwin S. Russell)
Subject: copper pipe
Organization: Stanford Linear Accelerator Center
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 21:42:52 GMT

There seems to be some question whether my previous post got out of the local  
maze.  My apologies if this is a repeat.

As part of a forthcoming kitchen remodel I plan to start replacing our  
25-year-old galvanized pipe with copper.  The simplified residential building  
code summary put out by the city building department does not specify types  
of pipe required.  

Can someone briefly describe the difference between type L and type M copper  
pipe and when they are required?  I know type L has a thicker wall (and is  
more expensive) and that type M is not recommended for underground.  Any  
other differences?
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Inspection report ==> how many $ back?
Date: 14 Oct 92 17:04:48 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

David Lord writes:
>
> > How much do you figure we should ask for
> > back, for all the stuff that might be likely to die soon (or
> > should we just walk)?
>
>I think you shouldn't have made an offer you weren't serious about
>in the first place. Most of the stuff you describe is stuff that
>should have been obvious to you from just a casual look at the house,
>the age of the roof, appliances, etc. So now that you've had an
>offer accepted and chased off a competing buyer you think that the
>seller should buy you all new appliances. People like you disgust
>me. Next time put your brain in gear before you make an offer on
>the house, what you offer should take into account the condition
>of the house and any repairs you expect to have to make. The
>inspection is not intended as an excuse to make the seller bring
>an old house into like new condition, it's to make sure there are
>no hidden surprises waiting for you.


Consider that, while these flaws may have been obvious to *you* "from a
casual look at the house," not all potential new home owners have the
same "ability" to spot flaws.  That is at least part of the reason for
hiring an inspector.  It is, unarguably, somewhat imprudent to sign a
contract with a fixed (non-negotiable) price *prior* to the inspection
(more sensible would be to have a clause written into the contract that
holds the seller responsible for certain repairs that might show up in
the inspection, typically with some $ cap to protect the seller to a
point, with a "void" option for any MAJOR problem that shows up, like
borderline catastrophic termite damage or such.  These clauses were included
in my contract when I bought my house).  I suppose this is, at least in
part, the result of using an agent who doesn't really represent your
interests (a topic that has been discussed at length here before) combined
with basic inexperience.  An unfortunate situation, but one that is by
no means, I believe, uncommon.

As far as people like this disgusting you, you have my sympathy.  With all
the "bad people" and unpleasant events that occur in the world, you must spend
the majority of your time disgusted, if something like this is enough to
set you off.

Dave
-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
The heart and the mind on a parallel course, never the two shall meet.
						-E. Saliers
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: GFCI Powerstrip
Date: 15 Oct 92 05:34:18 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <9210141332.AA04039@dlsn12.dal.mobil.com> winney@DAL.MOBIL.COM (Randy Winney) writes:

>Does anyone make a multiple outlet powerstrip with a GFCI built
>into it? I've checked several home supply/hardware stores and
>have seen many powerstrips with spike supressors, but none with
>a GFCI.

Me neither.

1) You *might* be able to modify a powerstrip to accept a
   GFCI outlet, which you wire to protect the other outlets
   on the strip.
2) I believe I've seen power bars with a GFCI as part of the
   plug.  (portable whirlpool units have these things, but
   these aren't detachable).  No idea where.
3) You could swap the outlet it's to plug into with a GFCI
   outlet.  About $10.
4) You could buy a plug-in GFCI (has a receptacle on it), and
   plug it inbetween the power bar and outlet.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
From: lou@hpkslx.mayfield.HP.COM (Lou Kvitek)
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 23:39:34 GMT
Subject: Re: Building near property line
Organization: HP Response Center Lab
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house


Typically no "permanent" structures can exist within 3-6 feet of the property
line.  Portable spas do not qualify as permanent (usually).  A car port sounds
fairly permanent.  Permanent may be defined by whether or not the structure
is physically attached to the house.  If its attached, its permanent.

Call your local department of code enforcement.  They can tell you.  They
will also come out and check it out if you are registering a complaint.
Watch out though, they might also check out your house for violations.

Your neighbor can still build and apply for something called a "variance".
But, that costs time and dollars.  I'd try talking it over with him first,
let him know that you are not happy about the construction on his house
approaching the property line.  Ask him: "don't you have some other options?"

Good Luck!
8-)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: florence@infonode.ingr.com (John Florence)
Subject: FREE FINANCING
Organization: Intergraph Corporation, Huntsville, AL.
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 19:23:13 GMT

Subject: Re: FREE REFINANCING
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Summary: COUNT ME IN

<1992Oct6.200916.27098@porthos.cc.bellcore.com>
In article <1992Oct6.200916.27098@porthos.cc.bellcore.com>, 
patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie) writes:
> In article <1asnr8INNpc9@sixgun.East.Sun.COM> egreen@east.sun.com writes:
> >In article 111851VANCE@SLACVM.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU, 
Valery Nesterov <VANCE@SLACVM.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU> () writes:
> >>
> >>We have loans at NO COST at all to you!!
> >>We'll come to your home to fill the application.
> >
> >How about tomorrow night?  I live in Cary, North Carolina.  Say, 5:30?
> 
> I'm interested too! How 'bout this evening around 8:00? I live in Somerset,
> New Jersey (just down the road from Ed).
> 
   Me too !!    Don't forget me !!  I'm available Fridays 6:00 P.M. and after
		Drive on down to Huntsville, Ala. and we'll talk.......


-- 
   John N. Florence     **** All opinions expressed herein are mine
   Intergraph Corp.     **** and mine alone. ****
   Huntsville, Al.      uunet!infonode!florence OR florence@infonode.ingr.com
   I'm a charter member of the "KICK THE BUMS OUT !" party..............
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: This Old House
Date: 8 Oct 92 16:36:48 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

In article <1992Oct6.172116.18106@pbs.org> croman@pbs.org writes:
>> Locally, the new season starts one week from tonight (october 9).  TV
>> Guide says the first project is working on a house built in 1958 (not
>> 1858, but 1958).  I wonder if they'll ever show the final results of the 
>> flat in London from the end of last season.
>> 
>
>Hey, just so happens that I work for PBS and that listing is incorrect...it is
>a 1858 hours NOT 1958!!! And the new season does begin in October.

Sorry, but they just didn't build ranch style houses back in 1858.  Perhaps
one of the later projects will be on an 1858 house, but the first one
for the season is 1950's vintage.

Dave
-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
The heart and the mind on a parallel course, never the two shall meet.
						-E. Saliers
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house