From: ausdal@ece.scarolina.edu (Thi Van Ausdal)
Subject: Re: Building/hopping up my 91 Mustang 5.0 LX
Keywords: Mustang
Organization: USC  Department of Computer Science
Date: 16 Nov 92 02:33:24 GMT

cbm@stiatl.salestech.com (Chris Medders) writes:

>First off, *great* group !!  I'm kind of a novice in this area and am excited
>about getting to read & learn from all you experienced folks out there.  I
>recently bought my first muscle car, a '91 Mustang LX 5.0 convertible and I
>now have 'the need for speed' !  There's nothing like being on an open stretch
>of highway, nothing (or noone) in sight, and opening it up...  At any rate, my
>first tune-up included adding Spitfire(?) spark plugs, advancing the timing
>(per the tech at Dugan Mustang), and replacing the stock air filter with a
>K&N racing filter (1,000,000 mile warranty - I liked that one!).  I have been
>told that the 'next' addition I need to do is replacing my mufflers with
>Flowmaster mufflers then replacing my 'cables & pulleys' with the non-parasitic
>type pulleys.  As I previously mentioned, I am a novice (software engineer, NOT
>*mechanical* engineer) so any/all input & suggestions will be appreciated.
>Thanks !

>-Chris

>p.s.  I forgot to mention that I have a manual transmission - is there such a
>thing as a "shift kit" for a Mustang ?  Again, thanks !

Hey, who said we're all experienced out here? 

Ay, a  good person it was who referred you to Flowmasters. A way to see if 
something works is to look at race cars.  At the track, Flowmasters and
Supertrapps are fairly common.  Look for a dual exhaust kit with a crossover
pipe (which will give more gain than pure duals).  A good set of "shorty"
headers such as by JBL (sp?) or Ford Motorsports with a good exhaust system 
improve the breathing (and sound) of your 'Stang. 

The pulleys you refer to are UNDERDRIVE PULLEYS for your accessories.  The
factory pulleys are designed for the worst case scenario--you're sitting in
stop-and-go traffic with every accessory on in the car.  So the diameter of
the water pump and alternator pulley is designed so that the engine is cool
enough while idling and the battery charges even if you idle at 500 rpm. The 
problem is that at 6500 rpm, your water pump and alternator are turning TOO
fast, or at least faster than they need to be turning.  So a smaller crank-
shaft pulley, coupled with larger alternator and/or water pump pulleys will
slow those accessories down.  I have heard of .2 sec decreases in 1/4 mile
times and so forth with pulleys.  Look for quality sets, around $100-125 for
a three-pulley set.  They take about an hour and a half for you to install
(air powered tools are faster) since you'll have to take the fan shroud,etc,
out of the way. 
Did you take the RESTRICTION out of the air filter box when you put in the
K&N filter?  Although I never saw one, it's common knowledge (now) that Ford
has a plate in the intake box which, when removed (easily) improves the 
intake breathing. 

Another mod for speed is to go to a different set of REAR GEARS. Whoa, you
say, why in the heck would I want to mess with the perfectly good ratio that
wise engineers at Ford dictated for my 5.0?  BZZZZZZZZZZZ, wrong question,
the idiots in Washington dictated fuel economy be the prime consideration.
Your car probably came with a ratio like 2.73 or 2.56:1.  A switch to 3.08s 
or 3.23s will make your car accelerate quicker and you may actually increase
your top end (although a topless car isn't my idea of the prime candidate 
for 150 mph runs) since you won't be quite as grossly overgeared in 5th.  
Factory Mustangs actually go faster in 4th gear because the motor is going
in the horsepower peak at top speed in 4th.  Top gear actually pulls you off
the power curve! So 3.08s, 3.23s, or 3.55s are a good choice for a snappier 
Mustang.  

Finally, SUBFRAME CONNECTORS are a sound investment in the strength of a 
Mustang.  I don't remember if a droptop has them from the factory.  I know
that the coupe and liftback can't be jacked from a corner because they'll 
twist.  Subframe connectors are rectangular steel connectors which are welded
(or bolted, egad!) to the underside of the car.  This helps make your car 
more solid.  T-tops are a curse to automotive engineers because of the role
the roof plays in stiffening a car's unit-body.  

That's all I can come up with right now.  Take this shopping list and go
to your local newstand and buy a genre magazine like "Mustangs Monthly" (not
a real name--- I can't think of one right now, it's late leave me alone) 
and there will be a host of ads for these and other goodies for your LX.

Happy shopping!!!!!!!!
				T. VanAusdal
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom