HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: dak@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu (David Kardelis- I am the NRA)
Subject: Strange noise when acceleratiing from stop
Reply-To: dak@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu
Organization: High Energy Physics, University of Illinois, Urbana-Champaign
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 20:39:46 GMT

	My !988 Toyota Tercel with 95K on it is making a strange 
mnoise when I accelerate from a stop. I get a fairly loud
"thunk" from what sound slike the rear wheel when I accelerate.
It only happens when acceleratinmg from a stop and it does not happen
everytime? I have just replaced the wheel bearings in the back 
and the shafts looked just fine. Any ideas on what this could be.
							dave
==========================================================================
   David Kardelis		| I am the NRA-NRA Life
   Gradual Student in Physics   |
   Univ. of Ilinois		|	Looking for a new .SIG
   dak@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu	|
   217-333-0505			|
Not necessarily the views of the ISSC or the UI At UC
==========================================================================
From: twc@svcs1.UUCP (Ted Chan)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: CRX noises
Date: 28 Aug 92 03:55:34 GMT
Organization: Silicon Valley Computer Society, Sunnyvale, CA

From article <1992Aug27.132527@IASTATE.EDU>, by bonger@IASTATE.EDU (Andy Song):
> 
> 	I have a 1990 CRX Si that has over 62,000 miles on it.  I'm recently
> experiencing noises coming from under the car.  It sounded like suspension parts
> and I went and replaced all the shocks and springs (they were due for a change
> anyway) and the problem presisted.  Some people tell me that the bushings are
> shot and they should be replaced.  If you know what might cause the noises and
> shakes whenever I go over a bump in the road please help.  If it is the bushings
> would you know if there are high performance bushings out there.  I'll pretty
> rattled by this!

If the bushings make noise, that does not necessarily mean that they are
worn out.  The may just need a lube.  You can shoot them with a spray
lube (just make sure the lube doesn't attack the bushing material).   If
you want higher performance bushings, you can probably get aftermarket
polyurethane bushings to replace the stock rubber (I assume) bushings.
These will increase road nose somewhat, but have less give (and therefore
yield better road feel and potentially better handling).

--twc@legal.uucp

**************************************************************************
*  I have found a truly wonderful proof which  *  UCB Mathematics 1983   *
*  this margin is too narrow to contain.       *  Standard Disclaimer(s) *
**************************************************************************
*  Ted W. Chan        *   Micro Flexhead(TM)   *  UUCP:  twc@legal.uucp  *
*  Corporate Counsel  *   Contact Recording    *  DATA:  (408) 241-8373  *
*  Censtor Corp.      *   Heads and Media      *  VOICE: (408) 298-8400  *
**************************************************************************
From: borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Production Delay (Was: Re: reliable cars
Date: 28 Aug 92 21:59:10 GMT
Organization: Hewlett Packard Company, Spokane, Wa.

In rec.autos.tech, tmkk@uiuc.edu (Khan) writes:

>Don't forget the hard starting in winter as you sit there shivering
>while the glow plugs make enough heat to get the thing going... :-(

Well, yes you do have to wait 5 to 10 seconds, but then it will start
immediately and run.  It seems a lot of folks with gas cars need to
crank and fiddle with the accelerator for as much or more time to get
things going in cold weather.


Donald Borowski    WA6OMI    Hewlett-Packard, Spokane Division
"Angels are able to fly because they take themselves so lightly."
                                       -G.K. Chesterton
From: wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Re: IROC smokes on start ['vette heads]
Date: 28 Aug 92 18:35:03 GMT
Organization: Hewlett Packard - Boise, ID

It's your valve guides.  Typical problem on GM's engines.  If you don't
mind the smoke, you can just let it go until it gets too embarrassing...

Wes Fujii

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Wes Fujii               *           JAPANESE BUSINESS MOTTO           *
* Boise, Idaho            *        You can buy anything you want        *
* wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com *             with a lot of money             *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
From: ggg@hpsad.sad.hp.com (Gary Goodlund)
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 20:48:24 GMT
Subject: Re: Cleaning spark plugs??
Organization: HP Signal Analysis Division - Rohnert Park, CA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

The only problem I can think of with using anti-sieze compound is if you 
get sloppy and get it on the business end (electrode) of the plug.  If
you're careful and only apply it to the threads it will reduce the chance
of damaging the threads in the head.

'later,
 Gary
From: Michel_Denber.WBST147@XEROX.COM
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Starter jamming
Date: 2 Sep 92 15:21:00 GMT

We had a problem with the starter jamming on my wife's '84 Buick Skyhawk.
Turned out the ring gear had been installed backwards *at the factory*.  The
ramped edge of the gear was facing *away* from the starter.  Amazing it worked
as well as it did.  I still have that flywheel up on the wall in my office.

I don't know if it should have grease on it or not.  The job was done by
someone else, back in the days before I started doing all my own work.
Probably couldn't hurt.

			- Michel

denber.wbst147@xerox.com
From: alter@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (Eric Alter)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Clutch adjustment
Date: 30 Aug 92 03:43:22 GMT
Organization: IBM Rochester
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM

I just got an '88 Beretta GT (V6, 5 speed).  I don't particularly like the
action of the clutch as it takes very little to engage.  I'd like to back it off
(the pedal might travel and inch or 2 more before engaging) and am wondering how
to go about it.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can change my clutch adjustment?

Next question:  On the V6's, is there a trick to get to the spark plugs back
behind the engine next to the firewall?  I'm not sure I can get my arm/hand back
there along with tools and be able to extract the plugs.

Thanks,
-- 

Eric Alter		alter@rchland.vnet.ibm.com
IBM Corporation		Rochester, Mn
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: yosinaga@uhunix.uhcc.Hawaii.Edu (Naoko Yoshinaga)
Subject: Re: Cleaning spark plugs??
Organization: University of Hawaii
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 04:49:35 GMT

Why is anti-seize lubricant necessary on spark plugs? Someone, who builds 60-70's Chevy engines said to never use it. Because the anti-seize can be conductive and the anti-seize can also mess up the gap of the plug. Therefore it will degrade the performance of the spark plug.

All I can say in return is that the manuals say to use it. I don't know why, though. Could someone please give me explanations or references on why it is necessary? I would really appreciate it!

Thanks!


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: aefron@cornerstone.com (Andy Efron)
Subject: Re: CLUB Story
Reply-To: aefron@cornerstone.com (Andy Efron)
Organization: Cornerstone Research, Cambridge, Mass.
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 21:01:14 GMT

 > Regardless of the
> quality of the lock, professional thieves don't even bother with it.  They
> simply cut the plastic rim of the steering wheel and remove the device.

I have also heard that car theives are doing this now.  The club is basically 
useless.


Andy





----------------------------------------------------
"I didn't do it to make history.  You do something
that you want to do or feel you have to do, because
you like it and love it.  And if it turns out to be
history, well, so what?"

				--Carroll Shelby,
					from "The Cobra-Ferrari Wars"
----------------------------------------------------
From: paul@howtek.UUCP (Paul Rothenberg)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Paint Overspray Removal
Date: 3 Sep 92 20:30:07 GMT
Reply-To: paul@howtek.UUCP (Paul Rothenberg)
Organization: Howtek, Inc.
X-Mailer: uAccess - Macintosh Release: 1.5v4

Any suggestions for removing automotive paint overspray from a
windshield without scratching the glass?

Thanks in advance.

===============================================
Paul M. Rothenberg

paul@howtek.uucp  -or-
decvax!fasfax!howtek!paul
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Recommendations re: 82/83/84 Mercedes....
From: james@koko.csustan.edu (Jonas Grumpy)
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 92 00:49:11 GMT
Organization: CSU Stanislaus

In article <10570@sun13.scri.fsu.edu> nall@sun8.scri.fsu.edu (John Nall) writes:
>If someone has a recommendation for or against the 82, 83 or 84 Mercedes
>models, I'd sure appreciate a little insight.  In particular, the 300
>turbo-diesel models.
>
>I have an old '77 300D, which I bought very cheap because it has a lot
>of things wrong with it.  At this point, I've driven it enough to know
>that I really like MB's, and would like to get a better one.  (Mine is
>a former taxicab, and really is not worth spending money on.  The body
>has a *lot* of rust, the A/C needs complete replacement, etc.)
>
>I figure that I can sell mine for a couple of thousand, and puttting that
>together with some savings, can come up with about $7000 cash.  Looking
>at the car ads, it appears that for that amount, I can probably get a
>turbo-diesel somewhere in the 1982-83-84 range, with around 100K (more
>or less) milage, that has been serviced regularly and is in good shape.

For that much money you can get your self a nice digitally fuel injected
BMW 528e '82 or later. This car burns clean and gets good gas mileage.
Diesel mbz's are very expensive to repair. At 100k miles the car has
a good chance of being in need of a rebuild, unless it was taken care of
in which case 100k miles has not really broken the engine in yet.
-- 
28940375892743587293475982734985723984 bottles of beer on the wall
28940375892743587293475982734985723984 bottles of beer..
take one down, pass it around
28940375892743587293475982734985723983 bottles of beer on the wall......>>>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: norcott_bill@tandem.com (Bill Norcott)
Subject: Re: Pressurize Oil Before Starting ?
Reply-To: norcott_bill@tandem.com  (Bill Norcott)
Organization: Tandem Computers, Inc.
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 19:40:59 GMT

In article <1992Aug25.131721.15149@dg-rtp.dg.com>, brownr@hydra.rtp.dg.com (Tall Randy Brown) writes:
|> In article <15200039@spd.HP.COM> paulw@hpspdla.spd.HP.COM (Paul Welch) writes:
|> >
|> >I have seen (many moons ago) information on a company that provides
|> >"before you start it" oil pumps.  Basically, you add an aux. oil

<stuff deleted>

|> pocus, you have reduced your engine wear by 90-95% (first ten seconds
|> after startup).  So, add one to your engine and it should last 1-2 million
|> miles (if the average engine lasts 100K miles today).

Mechanical wear is only one of many kinds of oil-related failures,
and oil-related failures are only one cause of engine failure. What
about the possibility of internal corrosion, cracked heads, mechanical
stress, broken timing belts, etc which can all wreck an engine?  The
biggest cause of mechanical wear is on cold starts, that's the source
of the claim that most of the wear is in the first 10 seconds.  On a
warm start this is not the case, there is hardly any wear.  It's like
saying heart disease is the #1 cause of death so if we cured heart 
disease we'd live a thousand years.

Instead of paying $560 to pump the cold oil around, you can get an
engine block heater for less than $20 that heats the engine and the
oil before you start the car.

-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------|
Bill Norcott			GUARDIAN POSIX project
Tandem Computers, Inc.		
10600 N. Tantau Avenue		PHONE:  (408) 285-3253
Cupertino, CA   95014		EMAIL: norcott_bill@tandem.com


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sontakke@helix.enet.dec.com (Vikas Sontakke)
Subject: Re: dirty spark plugs
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 16:22:53 GMT


In article <92246.132941QXF1@psuvm.psu.edu>, <QXF1@psuvm.psu.edu> writes...
>I got some problem with my 82 Civic. The car runs well but the spark plug of
>4th cylinder gets dirty really quickly. The new plug got black and greasy only
>after 10 days when it was put on. I checked the compression, all cylinders were
>good, about 200 psi. Spark plug cable was also checked, no breakage was found.
>Could someone kindly give me some suggestions to fix this problem?
>Thanks in advance.

Valve seal/guide are leaking.  You might be able to see some blue smoke when you
first start it in the morning.  

Real solution is to fix the problem, but a spark-plug which is immune to oil
fouling can dealy the inevitable for a long time.

Try Bosh Platinum plugs.  I have found that they allow 10-15K miles
before needing replacement in my high milage Honda.  Those are avialable at your
local K-Mart for under $10/4.  

Vikas Sontakke		Digital Equipment Corporation, Maynard MA.
Internet:		sontakke@helix.enet.dec.com
    uucp:		{decvax,ucbvax,allegra}!decwrl!helix.enet!sontakke
			sontakke%helix.enet@decwrl.dec.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mpalmer@encore.com (Mike Palmer)
Subject: Windshield chip repair ???
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 22:10:34 GMT
Organization: Encore Computer Corporation

Anyone got any comments on the windshield chip repair outfits such as 
"Clear Star Windshield saver"?

I actually want it to fix a chip in my 26" TV screen (courtesy of my three
year old!).

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: tzing@nyx.cs.du.edu (Tom Zing)
Subject: Exhaust Manifold Stud Removal
X-Disclaimer: Nyx is a public access Unix system run by the University
	of Denver for the Denver community.  The University has neither
	control over nor responsibility for the opinions of users.
Organization: Nyx, Public Access Unix at U. of Denver Math/CS dept.
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 92 13:11:02 GMT


I have a broken exhaust manifold stud frozen in my aluminium head.  The
stud piece is about an inch long.  I have tryed liquid wrench and some 
vibration to try and loosen it.  Does any one know how to remove it ?
Thanks
Tom Z
From: SDOGGETT@cmsa.gmr.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: IROC smokes on start
Date: 28 Aug 92 13:10:09 GMT
Organization: GM Research Labs

In article <1992Aug25.210108.24712@ncrcae.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM>
kent@lightnin.Columbia.NCR.COM (Kent Richardson) writes:

>
>Just wondering if any other Camaro owners have the same problem I do with the
>car smoking a lot at startup. The amount it smokes seems to increase relative
>to how long the car has sat without running(i.e. next day-smokes a little,
>after a week-smokes a LOT). I was wondering what this is and if anything can
>be done to stop it. I think it may be dirty injectors?? The engine is a
>305 cubic in. (5.0L) with Tuned Port Injection. If it is'nt the injectors I
>don't feel like getting a $50 injection purge.
>
Oh yeah, leaky injectors will usually result in black, not blue smoke on start-
up.  You will also usually experience longer cranking, before the car starts.
The "after a week smokes alot" factor, says it's probably not injectors.  I own
 a 86 T/A with 26,000 miles on it and it's been leaking past the valve stem sea
ls for a couple of years now.  It pisses you off, a car with that low of mileag
e fogging the drive when you start it.  Oh well, i'll get to it one of these da
ys.  Spence.
From: yp@cbnews.cb.att.com (yagnesh.pathak)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: OIL light on 85 Corolla
Keywords: thin oil
Date: 31 Aug 92 17:17:49 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T


While driving, if I take the foot off the accelerator the red OIL light 
would come up but as soon as I accelerate, it goes away. I checked the 
oil and it was just slightly below "FULL" but was kinda thin. It has only 
been 3K miles after the last oil change. Have used Castrol 10W40.

Anyways, I went ahead and did another oil change(I usually do it every 4K miles)
and now the light doesn't come up. 

Any ideas? Hope there is nothing abnormal. It has 110K miles on it and 
is in a good shape.

Thanks in advance

Yagnesh Pathak
yp\@cbosgd.att.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: love@stacken.kth.se (Love Feuer)
Subject: Re: Volvo performance parts - Where?
Organization: Stacken Computer Club, Stockholm, Sweden
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 08:39:06 GMT

In article <1992Aug23.010514.2568@cc.umontreal.ca> dionf@ERE.UMontreal.CA (Dion Francois) writes:
>Anybody knows where i could buy Volvo performance parts? (shocks, springs,
>cams...) Any mail order places? I would prefer eastern States or eastern Canada.
One of Swedens best providers (and installers) of Volvo performarnce parts is:

Magnum Racing
Malmvagen 51
191 61 Sollentuna	(Suburb of Stockholm)
Sweden
Phone: +46-8-96 61 90 (Remember: Lunch in LA, 9 at night here.)

Give them a call. They, if anyone, should be able to help you out.

>Thanks,
>Francois Dion

/Love Feuer (love@lk.se)
From: jeff@dsp.sps.mot.com (Jeff Enderwick)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: tire speed ratings
Date: 4 Sep 92 17:45:34 GMT
Article-I.D.: dsp.JEFF.92Sep4104534
Distribution: rec
Organization: Motorola DSP Compilers


Does anyone have a tire speed rating chart handy? How fast/hot is safe for
a H rated tire? a V rated tire?

	jeff@dsp.sps.mot.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: Guages and instrumentation
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 92 06:58:11 GMT

David Kroth (kroth@sunshine.Kodak.COM) wrote:
: 
: 
: Where do the sending units for aftermarket oil temperature
: guages get installed?  In the pan, in an oil passageway?
: 
I have a VDO unit, whose sending unit replaces the drain-plug in the oil
pan.  Quite a nice setup, really.  I strongly reccomend the VDO gages, they
may be more expensive than the chain-autostore type, but they're bult well.

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.
hinzd@picard.med.ge.com
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 15:46:40 EDT
From: <QXF1@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: intermittent windshield whipper

I once had problem with the intermittent windshield whipper. Sometimes it
worked and occasionally it just stopped in the middle. I went to the dealer and
was told the problem was in the motor and about $200 is needed for the
replacement. Later on I did some fabrication to the intermittent relay
circuitary and had the problem solved. Anyone who has the same problem and not
willing to change the motor are welcome to contact me and share my experience.
From: davet@ksr.com (Dave Teichholtz)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: '85 Subaru GL - replacing water pump gasket easy?
Date: 27 Aug 92 15:51:14 EDT
	<1992Aug25.161000.9977@cabot.balltown.cma.COM>
Organization: Kendall Square Research, Waltham, MA
In-reply-to: welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM's message of 25 Aug 92 12:10:00 EDT

In article <1992Aug25.161000.9977@cabot.balltown.cma.COM> welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty) writes:

>   someone wrote:
>   >	"Naah. I never saw a water pump driven by the timing belt."
>
>   early versions of the US market Ford Escort.

   Also, Honda Civic's. (at least the 1984 1.3 and 1986 1.5 that I have 
   been married to).

-David
 
--
============================================================================
David Teichholtz                 Kendall Square Research 
davet@ksr.com                    170 Tracer Lane, 
(617) 895-9466                   Waltham Mass. 02154-1379

Women think men will change after marriage.  Men think women won't.
They're both wrong
From: danapple@vicor.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Strange left/right throttle related drift
Date: 1 Sep 92 00:37:13 GMT

Specimen: 
   1986 Celica Supra, 5MGE engine, MA61 chassis
   front suspension: MacPherson Strut; -1 camber, 1/8 tow-in, unknown caster
   rear suspension: semi-trailing arms
   transmission: 4 speed overdrive auto
   differential: limited slip
   tires: 225/60HR14 BFG Comp T/A HR4
   springs: Eibach
   shocks: Tokico Illumina

Symptoms:
1) When cruising down the highway at ~70mph, if I let go of the
   steering wheel, I drift into the next lane to the right in about 7
   seconds.
2) When cruising down the highway at ~70mph, if I hold the steering
   wheel such that the vehicle is travelling straight: 
   a) Accelerate: car drifts to the left.
   b) Decelerate using engine braking: car drifts to the right.

I would appreciate any ideas that would help get the suspension
properly fixed so I have straight line stability.  It has done this
drifting act with the stock springs, stock shocks, the new suspension,
and at all sorts of tire pressures.

Although I forget exactly what the caster is set to, it is the same on
both front wheels.

Thanks.

(Email or followup posts are fine.)

Daniel I. Applebaum  |  danapple@vicor.com  |  1986 Celica Supra "NVR DNF"
    "Rally cars don't handle very well when they are travelling backwards."
                            --- Gerry Brinkman "Principles of Rallying" #5
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:11818 rec.autos:20887
From: rat@erg.sri.com (Ray Trent)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
Subject: Re: Fuel Separator
Date: 27 Aug 92 21:12:06 GMT
Reply-To: rat@erg.sri.com (Ray Trent)
Organization: SRI International, Menlo Park, CA

In an article, gavin@aquila.csis.dit.csiro.au (Gavin Walker) writes:
>The device fits inbetween the carburettor and the inlet manifold.  Supposedly 
>it uses electromagnetic forces to break the fuel droplets down to an average
>size of 3 mircons.  That constrasts with 10 microns for the Orbital Engine
>and around 100(?) microns for fuel injection systems.  This then leads to
>better combustion.   Current tests indicate 40% emissions reduction, 40%
>less fuel consumption and about 1% loss of maximum power.
>
>The inventor is currently testing it on his 2.6l 4cyl Mitsubishi Magna (Sigma)
>and claims 50% less fuel consumption.

Well, let's look at this claim objectively, shall we?

If nothing else...:

Fuel is typically mixed with air at a ratio of 1/14 by mass. Current
regulations (in the US) require that unburnt hydrocarbons be something
like <500ppm in the exhaust (that's very conservative...I seem to
remember something like 80ppm, but I can't find a reference). This
would seem to me to indicate that at least 99.3% of the fuel has been
burnt somewhere in the system in most normal cars.

Admittedly, it is quite possible that a fair amount of that burns
outside of the cylinders or during times when power is not effectively
transmitted to the ground.

But 40%? Do you honestly think that *any* car company would fail snap
up this "discovery" and use it on their vehicles in an instant if it
really improved fuel consumption by 40%? Car companies are under
severe pressure from CAFE (fuel economy) regulations. They would hire
someone to *kill* this guy and *steal* the invention, if they had to,
if it actually worked that well. They spend literally hundreds of
millions of dollars a year just to squeeze out an extra 5% in fuel
efficiency.

Not to mention the fact that they are also under severe pollution
restrictions. They'd pay millions just for the emissions improvements
alone.

While there is a (microscopically small) chance that this guy is
right, I wouldn't bet on it any time soon without seeing hard,
referreed evidence.
-- 
"When you're down, it's a long way up
 When you're up, it's a long way down
 It's all the same thing
 And it's no new tale to tell"                      ../ray\..
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech