HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier)
Subject: Re: Activated Carbon (was Re: Cannister Filter Question ?????????????????)
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 92 17:56:05 GMT

Howard Rebel (howardr@col.hp.com) wrote:
: In article <1992Sep3.160309.23369@cs.ucla.edu> frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier) writes:
: >...
: >We have about 10 aquaria, none of which have activated carbon in
: >them.  Whatever else can be said about activated carbon, it is
: >not a "must" for a freshwater aquarium.
: 
: Yours is a single data point Greg.  I too have freshwater aquariums
: without carbon but I am not sure that it is safe to suggest that 
: it is never needed.

Actually, I think I will stand by the statement that it is never
needed, but I'll certainly agree that there are times that it
is useful.  Removing medications or chlorine are two situations
where it is handy, but both things can be done by other means.
For general use in the aquarium, that is, removing fats, proteins
and other organics from your water, water changes work nicely.
So, while activated carbon may be a handy thing, and may even
improve your water quality, it is not a necessity.

In fact, let's go a step further and say that, while there are
times when activated carbon is useful/beneficial, there are also
times when it is harmful to the aquarium.   I and several others
have noticed negative impact on plants when activated carbon was
used, and I also have heard that some activated carbons release
phosphates.

--
"They thought to use and shame me but I win out by nature, because a true
freak cannot be made.  A true freak must be born." - Geek Love

Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier
From: booth@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (George Booth)
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1992 19:10:33 GMT
Subject: Re: Algae bloom from trace elements
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria

We currently have our Fe levels at about 0.1 ppm and most alga has
disappeared.  I'm not sure if "thread" algae is a startup problem
or an iron problem, but we haven't seen it in any of our tanks for
quite a while.  The fuzzy green stuff is still present in the 100
gallon AOA - don't know why. 

------
George
From: hogan@BARRACUDA.NOARL.NAVY.MIL (Pat Hogan)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: vitamins for fish
Date: 4 Sep 92 19:16:24 GMT


A friend of mine has a salt water fish (sorry, can't
remember the name; it is dull red with scales, large
eyes, about 3" long)  that has a dark spot on its head.
One would think that it a disease of some sort, but a guy
at the local fish shop suggested that it was a vitamin
difficency.  This is new to me.   Has anybody treated
their fish with vitamins or supplemented their tanks?
What kind?  How much?  Regular store bought stuff?

Also, even if you don't know, please e-mail me if you
see this in rec.aquaria.  My posts have obviously not
been getting out the last month or so (I've tried
"postnews" and "Pnews"), now I'm trying to go through
the berkeley mailer.  Thanks.  Pat.

hogan@barracuda.noarl.navy.mil, or
hogan@turner-joy.noarl.navy.mil
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:6845 alt.aquaria:4762
From: mstephens.520@postman.gsfc.nasa.gov (mark stephens)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: Novaqua and phosphates
Date: 27 Aug 92 14:19:24 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: nasa/gsfc

I was planing on using tap water filtered thru charcole to take out chlorine.
This would be in a fish room setting where there are a large number of tanks
connected to a central filter and to the house plumbing.  I was gona get a 
chlorine test and do a little science but has anybody measured the effectiveness
of (in my case, whole house) charcole filters?

        mark


In article <1992Aug26.180945.8006@ultra.com>, jimh@ultra.com (Jim Hurley) writes:
               [.....]
> 
> I used to use NovAqua and Amquel, but now I just age the
> water in 30g trashcans overnight. What I do is just let the
> water sit in the rubber can, with a pump or powerhead
> circulating the water. I add a heater when the air temperature
> drops, but in summer that's not necessary. This water is even
> suitable for fry tanks - at least the blue gouramis don't mind.
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:6834 alt.aquaria:4755
From: srs@oasis.icl.co.uk (Steve Strong)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Gallons (was: Re: [F] Setup for plants and fish)
Date: 27 Aug 92 09:40:53 GMT
Followup-To: rec.aquaria
Organization: ICL, Bracknell, Berkshire, RG12 4SN, UK
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5

Jartsu (jartsu@vipu.hut.fi) wrote:
: 55 gallons make about 208 litres... external power filter (something

When people talk about gallons on this group, are they using the
US gallon or the British gallon? Could someone tell me what the 
conversion factor is? I guess it's about 2 US to 1 British, but I 
could be totally wrong :-)

Steve
-- 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Steve Strong - email srs@oasis.icl.co.uk      | Wasn't me. I didn't say that.
               voice 44 344 424842 extn 2279  | Definitely got the wrong guy.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: mojo@reed.edu (adrenochrome)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Question about Frogs in FW Tank
Date: 31 Aug 92 08:25:11 GMT
Article-I.D.: reed.1992Aug31.082511.21019
Organization: Okefenokee Glee & Perloo Union


As regards African dwarf frogs: I've read in at least one place that they
will, if contented, poke their heads out of the water and make what one
presumes are little contented-frog sounds.  Does this actually happen?
Mine seem happy enough, but I've yet to hear a peep out of them after
several months.

	NT
-- 
&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&
  "English muffins are important."             |  Nathan Tenny
  "Yeah, but truffles are much better in bed." |  mojo@reed.{UUCP,BITNET}
	- anonymous to protect the guilty      |  ...tektronix!reed!mojo
From: oleg@Veritas.COM (Oleg Kiselev)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Suggestions for a Long, Short Tank
Date: 28 Aug 92 23:06:21 GMT
Reply-To: oleg@veritas.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Organization: Palo Alto Killifish Loft
X-Disclaimer: I speak for myself only unless explicitly indicated otherwise

squizzy@cbnewse.cb.att.com (laura.h.fitzhenry) writes:
>So the question remains, what to do with this unusually long, short
>tank which measures 48"x12"x12" (33 gallons).  

Any schooling, small, active fish will like that tank.  If you heavily plant 
the rear and the sides of the tank with tall, thick plants (a hedge of giant 
vallisnaria, for instance) and the rest with clusters of low-growing plants
(Anubias nana, dwarf chain swords, etc.), a school of tetras, danios,
barbs or rasboras will look very nice in it.  
-- 
"Republicans understand the importance of bondage between a mother and 
child." -- Dan Quayle
 
Oleg Kiselev                                             oleg@veritas.com
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: bdickens@mammoth.es.com (Brian Dickens)
Subject: FOR SALE: 1-100/2-10 gallon setups
Reply-To: bdickens@mammoth.es.com (Brian Dickens)
Organization: Evans & Sutherland Computer Corp., Salt Lake City, UT
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 92 19:00:49 GMT

Moving Sale 
All of the followi9ng must be sold ASAP.

100 Gallon Aquarium Setup for sale
----------------------------------
	This is an incredible opportunity for someone with low $$ to get into 
	a large aquarium set-up.  This setup would cost over $1263.00 in a 
	retail store, but am willing to sell for $511.  This is a well 
	established community of African Cichlids that requires only the 
	addition of water due to evaporation and maintenance every 6-12 
	months.  I would like to sell the entire set-up including the fish, 
	but I will consider selling the tank and fish separately.


Equipment		       			Approximate Retail Value
---------					------------------------
100 gallon aquarium						$300
	Glass top
	150 watt fluorescent. lights.			
2 Aquaclear 802 powerheads with reverse flow switch		$118
2 aquaclear 201 powerheads					$56
1 Whisper 700 air pump						$40
1 Ebo jager 250 watt submersible heater				$32
1 undergravel filter						$50
75 lbs lava rock						$52
100 lb black gravel						$50
Syphon								$15
1 Magnum 330 canister filter					$85
Large Magnetic Glass Cleaner					$15
Aquarium salt, Novaqua, Cichlid Vital, Medication		$20

Total Retail Value						$933

Will sell for $311 or best offer

Fish			       			Approximate Retail Value
---------					------------------------
5 Tropheus Moorii ( red saddle ) 2-3''				$175
1 Dickfeldi 2.5''						$20
1 Buffalo head 3''						$15
2 Lamp. Leilupi 1-1.5''						$15
1 Synodontis Eupterous 6''					$80
1 Lamp. Calvus							$25

Total Retail Value						$330

Will sell fish for $200 or best offer

I also have 2 10 gallon set-ups that are excellent for hospital/quarantine 
tanks that can be included for $50

If interested contact Brian Dickens 	home: 	(801) 521-5911
				 	work: 	(801) 582-5847 x6627
Leave message at work if you cannot reach me.

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: elster@cs.cornell.edu (Anne C. Elster)
Subject: Goldifish & Tropicals -- FAQ iclusion?
Followup-To: elster@cs.cornell.edu
Summary: SDon't mix cold water and tropicals
Keywords: Gold fish, cold water, tropicals, don't mix, AFM
Organization: Cornell Univ. CS Dept, Ithaca NY 14853
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 03:13:46 GMT


Following the thread I started suggesting that advice re. not mixing
gold fish and tropicals should be added to the FAQ.beginners postings,
Edward Bauman, the editor of AFM (Aquarium Fish Magazine) wrote a follow- up
to me tonight. Since he doesn't have direct Internet access, I am posting
his response below. His mail came to me via Compuserve, so I can only
assume Fishnet is a related commercial network? 
							
					Anne C. Elster
					Still-a-beginner
	elster@cs.cornell.edu

	---------------------------

Anne,

I get an internet feed to my CIS mail and saw the thread on mixing goldfish
and tropicals.  There have been discussions like this on Fishnet, and there
are always people who claim that they have mixed the two for years.  In
fact, they are missing crucial points that go well beyond aesthetics.  If
you want, you can post the information below onto the net.  It's up to
you--I have no direct feed to the net itself, only email to individuals.


The goal of responsible fishkeepers is to provide the best possible
conditions for their fish.  The fish should _thrive_, not just _survive_.
By definition, this simply isn't possible in a tank with tropical and
coolwater fish.

First, the optimal temperature ranges for the two simply don't cross.
Regular goldfish do best at temperatures below 15 degrees Celsius, and fancy
goldfish, which need somewhat warmer water, do best around 18 degrees
Celsius.  The temperature range for tropicals, on the other hand, begins
around 22 degrees Celsius and extends up into the high 20s.

Because of their mass, goldfish need a much higher dissolved oxygen content
than tropicals and are well-adapted to the levels of dissolved oxygen
available at cooler water temperatures.  Their metabolism is also adapted to
these temperatures.  When kept in warmer water, goldfish are under chronic,
low-level physical stress because they are not in an optimal environment.

Goldfish also have different food requirements than many species of tropical
fish and are unlikely to receive proper nutrition from most tropical fish
foods, which are too high in proteins and low in bulk.

Goldfish kept in tropical aquatic environments are therefore unlikely to
reach normal size, are more prone to disease and will not live a normal
lifespan, which is a minimum of 8 to 10 years up to 20 years or more.

Yes, goldfish can be kept in tropical tanks, but what's the point?  Such an
environment is unnatural to them and is far from the optimal conditions they
should have.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Ed

Edward Bauman
Editor
Aquarium Fish Magazine




Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: squizzy@cbnewse.cb.att.com (laura.h.fitzhenry)
Subject: Suggestions for a Long, Short Tank
Organization: AT&T
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 04:06:14 GMT
Followup-To: rec.aquaria
Keywords: 48" long by 12" x 12"

First of all I am not who the header says.  I am posting this from a 
colleague's account.   I am:     

		singlar@cbnewse.cb.att.com

My wife has been dying to set up a 55 gallon live-bearer tank, which,
of course, is fine by me.  We thus ordered a 55 gallon tank along with
a stand, some miscellaneous, and....  a "bonus tank" for the bottom
shelf of her new stand.   I say "bonus" because we weren't planning
on buying two tanks, rather, it sort of developed as a last-minute
option which we both liked quite a bit since the price was alluring.

So the question remains, what to do with this unusually long, short
tank which measures 48"x12"x12" (33 gallons).  We have considered
using it for a freshwater catfish-only tank, a marine fish-only tank,
or possibly for a semi-reef setup with one or two fish.

One drawback, of course is the fact that the tank is so low to the
ground.  This makes maintenance more challenging and probably rules 
out certain canister-type filters.

What would you do with a long, short tank that is close to the ground
and has about fourteen inches, or so, of clearance at the top?  Moving
it to a separate stand is not an option since floor space is limited.




			-Steve Singlar
	           singlar@cbnewse.cb.att.com
			AT&T Bell Labs
			Naperville, IL
        
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: krogers@javelin.sim.es.com (K. Rogers)
Subject: Re: [M][R] Improving Captive Reef Base Rock
Keywords: reef marine coralline live rock
Reply-To: krogers@javelin.sim.es.com
Organization: Evans & Sutherland Computer Corp., Salt Lake City, Utah
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 18:16:49 GMT

ron@minnow.sp.unisys.com (Ron Burns) writes:

>> I would like to construct an egg grate suspension platform with 
>>pvc pipe as a base. A power head will drive water into the base pvc 
>
>I, too, have planned a similar arrangement on this 100g project.  I was 
>thinking of having the sump return line go clear to the bottom of the tank,
>and then run the length of the tank along the back wall/floor corner.  
>I would cap the end, and drill several small holes in the pipe to shoot water 
>across the floor of the tank, beneath the egg crate.  In an ideal world, I 
>would come up with a flow pattern which would cause detritus to 'pile up' in 
>one or two areas for easy removal.  We'll see.

My tank is set up this way.  The detritus does indeed collect at the
front for easy siphoning.  It works nicely.
-- 
Keith Rogers
krogers@javelin.sim.es.com
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: shane@psych.psy.uq.oz.au (Shane Brown)
Subject: Re: [F] Setup for plants and fish
Followup-To: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Organization: University of Queensland. Oz.
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 22:48:02 GMT

In article <1992Aug26.161628.19094@kong.gsfc.nasa.gov>,
mstephens.520@postman.gsfc.nasa.gov (mark stephens) wrote:
> 
> Unfortunately, there are a lot of tanks with plastic plants in the US. 
> Our stores typically have a whole wall dedicated to the things. 
> I never have had 'em and probably never will.  Most folks that do are
> really interested in the fish, have never heard of the nitrogen cycle 
> (of have just ignored it), use hang on the back filters (eg Whisper), 
> have plastic hoods with one florescent light and want everything 
> to be cheap.  They either get out of the hobby or "grow up" and move 
> on to> something better.
> 
> The comment I hear the most is "they just die on me" or "I can't keep 
>'em alive in my tank".  Plants are therefore "hard to grow".  What they
> should be saying is "I don't know a thing about keeping aquarium
> plants, much less aquariums!" Sigh.
> 
>             mark
> 
Torch on ! Nah, just kidding Mark,
....but, you really should watch it when you infer that plantless
people don't have a clue when it comes to aquaria. How can this apply
to some knowledgeable types who have been affectionately described as
"cichlidiots". I never had much luck trying to "train" my previous batch
of Africans (not deaths in custody, but sold because I went vacationing)
not to eat/rip/shred/uproot/destroy the plants I tried to keep. Nor am I
having much luck "training" my current wrecking crew of Oscars and Silver
Dollars to just peacefully co-exist with thier chlorophyllic tank-mates.
I don't wish to get all "funky" with perspex partitions or dividing walls,
so I allow my guests to have their way with the weeds. Sometimes I buy
new ones. Sometimes I don't. I've heard rumours of this thing you call
the nitrogen cycle, and try to cater for it's needs with good 
bio-filtration, and regular partial water changes. 
   So, spare a thought for those of us who would love to keep plants,
but whose "taste" (for want of a better word) in fish, makes it just a
little tricky.

Cheers, Shane.

(o  ) (o  )      ( o ) ( o )      (  o) (  o)  -------------------~
...AND KIDS, FEEL FREE TO       Shane's Opinion: Guaranteed to be ~
   TRY THIS AT HOME !!          worthless or you pay DOUBLE !     ~
-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_ ~_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-~
From: cigliano@bu-bio.bu.edu (John Cigliano)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: cuttlefish
Date: 4 Sep 92 18:35:41 GMT
Article-I.D.: bu.95382
Distribution: usa
Organization: Biology Department, Boston University, Boston, MA, USA

In article <1992Sep4.175300.888@cco.caltech.edu> laurence@cco.caltech.edu (Dustin Lee Laurence) writes:
>cigliano@bu-bio.bu.edu (John Cigliano) writes:
>
>[Cuttlefish]
>
>>However, they are champions when it comes to inking. I've seen _Sepia
>>officinalis_ (the common cuttlefish found in the mediterraneum and eastern
>>atlantic) project ink out of its tank and hit a wall over 10 m away. 
>>The amount of ink is enough to turn water in the largest tanks black. You
>>would need a heavy duty protein skimmer and a very good filtration system
>>to remove the ink.
>
>This brings up an interesting question: how harmful is cuttlefish and/or
>octopus ink?  I've heard that it is quite poisonous, and I've also heard
>that it's only harmful in that it tends to suffocate the critter if not
>removed.  Is it species-dependent?  Any idea on how long one has to remove
>the stuff before serious harm is done?
>
>-- 
>Dustin Laurence       "As sensitive and broad-minded humans, we must never
>                       allow ourselves to be in any way judgmental of the
>laurence@alice         religious practices of other people, even when these
>caltech.edu           people clearly are raving space loons." -- Dave Barry

Cephalopod ink is not poisonous. In fact, in Spain and Italy (and probably
other countries that I am unaware of) cook cephs in their own ink (give it
a try if you have the chance - its really very delicious). The danger is 
that it could suffocate the critters in the tank. Ink is a combination of 
protein and mucous which is why it affects respiration. Its my experience 
that if an octopus inks one or two times it isn't enough to be dangerous 
(octos don't ink in large amounts like the cuttlefish). However, repeated
inking by an octo, which happens if itd really spooked or harassed, or a
single inking by a cuttlefish could be dangerous. Basically my rule of thumb
is that if inking causes the water to turn grey but I can still see the 
critters, I don't worry about it. A cuttlefish will turn the water completey
black, which will cause harm. If you catch the inking early you can remove
much of it with a fine mesh net since the ink is part mucous. Animals are
affected if they are exposed to the ink over an extended period so a quick
water change would also be effective.

Some might be interested to know that there is some evidence that octopus
ink may affect the olfaction of one of its major predators, the moray
eel, as well as being used as a "smoke screen. Octopuses will ink and then
immediately change its direction to confuse anything that is chasing it.
The ink, though, does not take on the shape of the animal that has been
suggested in the popular literature.

John Cigliano
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel)
Subject: Re: FW: filtration switch questions
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 06:31:45 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division

In article <TqZcqB2w164w@valnet> Jonathan Herr <herrj@valnet.UUCP> writes:
>ffujita@s.psych.uiuc.edu (Frank Fujita) writes:
>
>All of the tanks I've seen that aren't built on a stand have a base
>that elevates the bottom plate of the tank.  So, no.  I don't think
>you're 'wierd' in having them.  Anyone care to explain why tanks are
>made this way?

This one is easy.  A tank setting on a frame is more tollerent of
imperfections in what the tank rests on.  Any inperfection (lump)
that falls inside the frame is a noop,  If the inperfection falls
under the frame the frame helps to distribute the force to prevent
the tank from cracking.

If you do have a flat bottom tank it may be a good idea to place
a compressable pad such as rigid foam or carpet under the tank.
-- 
Howard Rebel hpcsos.col.hp.com 

Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:6920 alt.aquaria:4796 sci.aquaria:1303
From: rbennet1@neumann.une.edu.au (Robert Bennetts.)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria,sci.aquaria
Subject: [M] strontium,molybdenum,iodine,calcium,etc.
Date: 30 Aug 92 12:59:39 GMT
Followup-To: poster


	Hi all...

	Can someone please inform me of the importance of these additives in a reef tank.
	I use real sea water (out of the pacific) in my tank, and my corals are doing very well, are these additives mainly only needed for those who make up there water, because of some deficiency in the mixtures, or should I try some of these magic additives myslef and see an amazing change in my invert life.
	If they are useful, what brand are the best (coralife, theil aquatech), and which mail order place is likely to give me the best deal (That Fish Place, Pet Wharehouse, etc).

	Thanks for any help...
 
	Ross Bennetts...

		rbennet1@neumann.une.edu.au


Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: bruceg@Cadence.COM (Bruce Gustifson)
Subject: Bio Filter
Organization: Cadence Design Systems, Inc.
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 14:39:34 GMT

************************************************************************
"Would you believe it if you     |  Pepsi ad campaign in Thailand;
saw it with your own eyes?"      | Come alive with the Pepsi Generation
   Asked the woman               |    In Thai translates to:
"That depends"                   | Pepsi will raise your ancestors
    Replied I                    |	from the dead.
***********************************************************************
From: booth@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (George Booth)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 18:57:24 GMT
Subject: Re: [F] Setup for plants and fish
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria

In rec.aquaria, lee@coredump.npac.syr.edu (Lee C Brink) writes:

  Sandblasting gravel has been recommended many times on the net.  The granuals
  are only (Ballpark figure coming up :-) about 10mm.  Anything finer and
  you'll have to worry about the sand compacting.

Gee, Lee, check a ruler when you get a chance.  10 mm is a little over 
3/8" - more like rocks than aquarium gravel!  The sandblasting gravel we
use is about 2-3 mm (roughly 1/16 to 1/8"). 

------
George
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria