HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: HELP - carb choke?
From: <GDG104@psuvm.psu.edu>
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 12:53:45 EST
Organization: Penn State University

  I have a 1985 Mustang GT (5.0 Liter) with a Holley (model 4180C) 600 CFM 4
barrel with vacuum secondaries. My problem is what I believe to be something to
 do with the choke.  When I start the car in the morning in the cold (usually a
nything below 45 deg) the car takes a while to reach its normal fast idle RPM o
f about 1800.  Sometimes it never goes above 1200.  Then after aabout 6-8 minut
es of driving, the fast idle kicks off, but the car will not idle at the normal
 800 RPM.  It stalls unless I keep the car running by giving it gas.  The car w
ill also hesitate when I try to give too much gas.  After about 15-20 minutes o
f driving the car returns to normal idle and I can floor it without the hesista
tion.  The car runs beautifully right from startup in warm weather.  What can I
 do about this problem?  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

                   George Grab
                   Penn State Harrisburg
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jbothwel@brtph375.bnr.ca (James Bothwell P920)
Subject: Ford 400cid carburetor questions?
Summary: Stumble to stall 
Keywords: carburetor, stall, hesitation
Organization: BNR Inc. RTP, NC
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 21:45:56 GMT

I have a 1976 Ford LTD with a 400 cid engine.  The car ocassionaly stalls
when turning right.  This car has always had a hesitation problem when
turning to the right.  After a carburetor rebuild the problem diminishes 
to a slight stumble.  The problem gradually developes into a full fledged
stall over the space of a few years.  Then on to the next rebuild.  Does any 
know of what could cause this?  The carburetor is a two barrel.

An alternative to another rebuild is to put a 4 barrel on.  The object is 
not to maximize power but to get rid of the stumble.  I do not want to buy 
a new intake manifold.  How much would a rebuilt 4 barrel from a Ford 351
cost?  Would the 4 barrel fit on the 400's intake manifold?  Thanks.

jbothwel@bnr.ca
From: ona@cbnews.cb.att.com (ona.wu)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: flaky headlights
Date: 23 Nov 92 18:29:56 GMT
Organization: AT&T

Hi!

I have a 1983 Chrysler Cordoba that is acting rather flaky in its headlight

system. It works fine in warm weather. But when it gets cold, I first
have to turn on the high beam before the low beams activate. Sometimes
this doesn't work and I have to drive around for a few minutes first. The
time I spend driving around is proportional to the coldness of the weather.
Any advice?

Please send all comments and suggestions to ona@vax135.att.com. 

Thanks ahead of time.

-ona
ona@vax135.att.com
From: davies@prlhp1.prl.philips.co.uk (R.J.Davies)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Inital acceration lag -- stalling
Date: 17 Nov 92 18:33:19 GMT
Reply-To: davies@prlhp1.UUCP (R.J.Davies)
Organization: Philips Research Laboratories, Redhill, UK

In article <1drdohINNmoa@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> dtn@po.CWRU.Edu (Donald T. Noda) writes:
>
>Background:  1981 Buick Regal  3.8L 231 -- all origninal stock.
>
>Problem:  There is a major lag in acceleration occurring when 1)
>starting from a complete stop and 2) when putting the pedal down
>too fast or too much.  This only just started to happen.  Before
>I was enjoying good response and power.  It's been stalling
>lately too.  I give it a good 5-10 minutes to warm up.  I have a 
>feeling its my carbureator (2bbl Varijet).  Perhaps it just needs
>adjusting to the cold.  Before the weather changed the car ran
>like new (despite the tapping).  The tranny is new (T350) so 
>highly doubt that is the problem.  
>
>
>		Don

Hmmm.   Sounds rather similar to my BMW's latest problem.  This is a 1982 1.8
litre 316 which, until about a week ago, was running perfectly.  Last week, it
suddenly stalled for no apparent reason.  The engine was cold at the time and
I put it down to driver error and thought no more of it.  The next day, during
the cold start period (when the auto choke is in operation) it would idle
quite happily in netral and then simply die.  There would be no coughing or
spluttering; the engine would simply stop.  It would restart first time
everytime and the fault seemed to disappear entirely when the engine had
warmed up.

Intially, I suspected the operation of the auto choke, but, having taken it to
bits and found nothing wrong with it or its associated water temperature
sensor, have eliminated it as the cause of the problem. 

Lately, the fault has worsened so that now it is a major struggle to keep the
engine running while it is warming up - it is not unusual to stall half a
dozen or more times during the first mile or two of any journey.  Again, no
trouble restarting and it will maintain an idle (slightly rougher) once warmed
up.  But now, I am experiencing the same lag in acceleration described by Don.
Now _this_ problem is very similar to one that one of my previous cars
exhibited.  The cause of this was a piece of grit lodged in one of the
carburettor jets and acting intermittently as a ball valve.  Solution: Strip 
down and clean the carburettor and reassemble.

I don't know how such a piece of grit would get past the BMW's fuel filter
but, at any rate, stripping down the carb is my next move.  It'll cost 30
pounds for a new set of gaskets etc. so I hope it solves the problem!   
Anybody out there like to suggest what to try next if it doesn't? 

Rob
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: powell@interlan.interlan.com (Glen D. Powell)
Subject: source for traffic signs?
Organization: Racal Datacom, Inc., Boxborough, MA (1-800-LAN-TALK)
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 20:04:58 GMT

Does anyone know of a source for "official" looking traffic signs?

THANKS!

-glen


-- 
Fundsalo Racing--73 CP RA IV 455HO Firebird GTO, 85 Quattro, 86 4000CS Quattro
The Few..... The Proud..... The Concurrently Executed.....
Ex-Alliant,   SCCA/NER, NESCC, NRA Life, GONH Life
Don't buy japanese *ANYTHING*
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ravalent@mothra.syr.EDU (Bob Valentine)
Subject: Re: Jag auto trans
Organization: Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 92 23:04:23 EST

In article <1992Nov16.083148.1702@walter.cray.com> dilmore@cray.com (Robert J. Dilmore) writes:
>   I'm still trying to wipe the permagrin off my face..
>
>   This weekend my mom came down with her 92 Jag XJS conv. with the 
>12 cylinder engine. I had heard that if you keep it in 1st that the
>shift will be at redline instead of at 3500 as it is when it is in 
>Drive. Well I tried it and let me tell you it was AWSOME! The car
>torqued right up to 85, tires squeeled shifted into 2nd and just went
>right up to 130 mph until it chirped the tires again and just kept 
>going like it was never going to stop... 

>    Is there any other type of transmission that operates like this?
>I mean the part about keeping it in first and leaving it there.

Yep.  It's called most any automatic.  The Jag uses a GM TH-400 
last time I checked.  Later models have the 4L80, a HD, OD version
of the regular 400.  Also shift kits set to street-strip will overide
the default upshift.

>
>BTW the 1993 conv 12v is going to be over 90 grand!

  I'd rather have a 454/4spd/Posi Chevelle Convertible.


>Robert
>

--> Bob, who would never pay over $1500 for a car.....
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Dodge Intrepid
Date: 15 Nov 92 14:45:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet



-> Please reply via email... I don't read r.a.t or r.a

 Sorry, I can't be bothered.
                 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: wwein@scott.skidmore.edu (warren wein)
Subject: Help with slipping transmission
Organization: Skidmore College, Saratoga Springs NY
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1992 18:04:44 GMT


	Saturday morning I took my 1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse gsx out for
a drive.  I went to pass someone in 4th gear and the engine started
reving but I wasn't moving any fater.  Then the revs dropped and I
started accelerating.  I was worried that the clutch might be going
but clutch take up in all gears was normal.  I tried flooring the car
in 5th gear and the same reving and then drop in revs , acceleration.
This did not happen in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd gears.  Last night I took the
car out again and it was behaving normally. I am driving to NYC on
Tuesday.  The trip is about 222 miles.  Is it safe to drive the car?
If the car isn't behaving abnormally will the dealer be able to find 
any problems? Does anyone have any clue as to what is going on?

							- Warren
wwein@skidmore.edu 




-- 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"In no sense?  Nonsense." AON

"Female Cathons pick their mates by the size of their balls" -TN
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: zzang@stat.ufl.edu (zzang)
Subject: How does the clutch work?
Originator: zzang@manta
Organization: University of Florida
Distribution: usa
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 92 22:46:39 GMT

Hello,
I am wondering how the clutch works.
my workshop manual has the components drawings.
but I can't "figure" out how the release fork,
release bearing, clutch cover, clutch disc and
the flywheel work together.

fork                
\     cover     H  flywheel
 \       (  |   H
  M  O  ( -||   H
         (  |   H
                H

it seems to me: the release fork press the 
release bearing, the bearing in turn press
the clutch cover (right?).
and the clutch disc assembly consists 
two pieces of disks (right?):
one is bigger than the another.
the bigger one contact to the flywheel.
and the smaller one connect to the drive shaft.

now the clutch cover press the rim of the bigger
disk toward the flywheel, and force the the
two disks apart, therefore, disconnect the the
flywheel away from the drive shaft.

right?

Thanks in advance!

-- 
Zhuo Zang[~{j0WA~}]
Department of Statistics
University of Florida            Email: zzang@stat.ufl.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
Subject: Re: remove inside rear-view mirror - HOW?
Date: 17 Nov 1992 06:10:27 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, pete@wvus.org (Pete Gregory) says:

>Hi - I just bought a factory replacement rear-view mirror for my 1969
>Porsche - the old mirror is broken but still glued to the windshield
>with whatever epoxy they used 23 years ago.
>
>How do I remove the old mirror without breaking the windshield?  Is
>there something that will dissolve the old epoxy but not the glass?
>
>Thanks...

super glue remover, maybe..dunno..never tried it..just thought i'd offer.
or maybe fingernail polish remover..never tried that either...
good luck
DREW
-- 
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
?????????????????????????????????-----whatever!
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:15669 rec.autos.antique:59
From: kiviat@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Brian Kiviat)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.antique
Subject: Re: Triumph Spitfire idle problem
Date: 20 Nov 92 12:44:41 GMT
Reply-To: kiviat@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Brian Kiviat)
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

>SD Bateson (u1a70@keele.ac.uk) wrote:
:       The engine is a 1300, probably running a stock cam etc, but
: with HS4 carburettors (From 1500 MKV Spit) and a Triumphtune 4-2-1
: Although it idles ok at first (at about 850-950 rpm), after about
: ten seconds the idle starts to fall, and the engine stalls, unless I
: rev it a bit. After another ten seconds of idling, the same happens.

You might want to check the slop in the throtle shaft (butterfly shaft)
If it not in good shape, you might be drawing air in through the bearing
assemblies at either end. I don't know the fix, but this might be the
problem. It sounds as though you have a pretty hopped up motor, maybe
some side draft Webers might be cool.

Brian
'67 Sunbeam Alpine
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: eliot@stalfos.engr.washington.edu (eliot)
Subject: Re: clarification on antilock brakes
Organization: clearer than blir
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 00:44:53 GMT

In article <1992Nov18.162208.2737@engage.pko.dec.com> sontakke@helix.enet.dec.com (Vikas Sontakke) writes:

>Can you explain the dual triangular concept?  How do they have
>redundant ckts at the front?  Wouldn't that need two distinct
>calipers for the front wheels, actuated by two different circuits.  I
>can see if they use dual pistons, one on each side of the rotor, then
>it is possible, although I think most cars have free floating desing
>with a sliding pin and single piston.  

unfortunately i don't know how it is implemented.  i don't think that
there would be dual calipers or dual pistons or anything like that in
the front.  my best guess is that there will be two brake lines going
into the front caliper with some kind of valve to prevent hydraulic
fluid loss if one circuit brakes.  your best bet to find out for sure
is to ask a volvo owner who has worked on the front brakes.  volvo has
used this system way before ABS was even invented.  old volvos even
had a "brake failure" warning light as a gimmick (IMO) to draw
attention to their design.  i remember the ads from way back..  "when
brake failure occurs in a volvo, all that you will notice is the brake
failure warning light flashing".  on second thoughts i guess the
warning light is useful after all, to get you take the car in to get
fixed.


eliot


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: "mike knox" <mike.knox@canrem.com>
Subject: How anti-lock brakes work (may start an interesting discussion)
Reply-To: "mike knox" <mike.knox@canrem.com>
Organization: Canada Remote Systems
Distribution: rec
Date: 19 Nov 92 20:13:17 EST

 
In Message-ID: <Bxtpzy.ExB@ssesco.com>, nau@ssesco.com (William Nau) writes:
 
WN>Yes and yes.  An example is Ford pickups.  They have anti-lock brakes on
WN>the rear drums.  I don't know if you can get anti-lock on the front discs.
WN>It's done on the pickup to keep the rear end from swinging around to the
WN>front in a panic stop.  If any actual cars do this, I don't know.
 
My 1989 GMC S15 Jimmy has the same setup: ABS on the rear drums, nothing
on the front disks. The newer models (starting in 1991 I think) offered or
came standard with 4 wheel ABS.
 
My Owner's Manual states that the ABS does not work when in 4WD mode. Anybody
know why that might be?
 
Also, does anybody know if the late model Jimmys with 4 wheel ABS also cut
out when in 4 wheel drive mode?
 
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Mike Knox                  |     Fido: 1:229/15
    Brampton, Ontario          | Internet: mike.knox@canrem.com
    CANADA                     | RelayNet: ->CRS  (Public Key: 22319)
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

 * DeLuxe2/386 1.25 #4782 * 
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
From: scotte@atlastele.com (Scott Elam)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Opinions - lowering backpressure on fuel injected engine
Summary: What's this gonna do to my truck?
Keywords: fi fuel injection backpressure exhaust
Date: 20 Nov 92 02:16:58 GMT
Organization: Atlas Telecom Inc.


I have heard conflicting opinions about lowering the backpressure
on fuel injected engines.  One person told me that it would cause
the FI to run really lean and eventually burn the valves.  Another
person said that was an old wives tale.  He told me that if the
engine was tuned-up after the system was installed everything would be
fine (I tend to believe the second guy).

I want to upgrade my exhaust system in stages on my '87 4cyl
Toyota 4x4 PU, starting with the muffler and a larger diameter
tailpipe.  Eventually I'll replace the header and cat-converter.

Anybody have any thoughts on this?  I'd appreciate hearing them.

Thanks
--
Scott Elam                  
scotte@atlastele.com        
-- 
"Reality is just                                   Scott Elam                  
your imagination."                                 scotte@atlastele.com        
                                                   2904 SE Washington          
       -me?                                        Portland, OR 97214
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: variable back-pressure/silencing exhaust
Date: 15 Nov 92 14:56:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


->    What about the "EXUP" exhaust systems on the FZR's ?? FZR's are
-> four strokes.

 Beats me.  I've never seen an FZR with EXUP.  It's just more acronymia
to me.
                                  
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kelley@cwis.unomaha.edu (Sean Kelley)
Subject: Re: Saab 900S oil->mayonnaise
Organization: University of Nebraska at Omaha
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 05:36:45 GMT

well, it is commen on some cars when it gets driven in high humidity
prone areas that mosture builds up in the oil, it also tends to happen
more when the car is driven only short distances, 

A long drive on a highway normally takes care of the problem, though it
could be a sign also that anti-freeze is entering the cyliders/oil
through a crack somewhere...watch the level of your coolant and if it
does not frop, dont worry to much about it, it's not a big problem
unless to much moisture comes in and thins your oil out a lot...if the
antifreeze level does drop, i hope you warrenty still applies...

--
	    ________________-----------------_____________
            \                                            /
             \  SEAN KELLEY    KELLEY@CWIS.UNOMAHA.EDU  / 
              ------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: brownr@hydra.rtp.dg.com (Randy Brown)
Subject: Re: tips on performance
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 92 16:08:23 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: DG-RTP Graphics Group

In article <@gatech.EDU>, gt0765b@prism.gatech.EDU (Kevin M. Bonham) writes:
|> Date: Fri, 20 Nov 92 12:00:27 EDT
|> 
|>there could give me some tips on how to significantly increase the performance
|>and handling of my car. I was thinking about maybe adding a turbo to this
|>car, specifically an AiResearch TO3 from an '80 Mustang. They both have
|>around the same displacement, so I don't think installing it would be a 
|>problem. Any suggestions on turbos? I also want to upgrade the tires with a 
|>whole new tire/wheel package? I've heard a lot on this group about dunlops. 
|>What about rims? Thanks to anyone who can give me some advice.

I think putting a Turbo on your Hyundai Excel is a great idea.  Also, most
folks like to go to 17 inch rims with 35-40 ratio tires, like Yokohamas
or Pirellis.  This combination should put you well below a 20-second
1/4 mile, with looks to boot.

Or did you say your car wasn't a Hyundai?  This combo works for Daihatsu's too.

Randy ";-) for the humor impaired" B.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: srabo@csws19.ic.sunysb.edu (Sebastian Rabo)
Subject: Re: Opinions - lowering backpressure on fuel injected engine
Keywords: fi fuel injection backpressure exhaust
Organization: State University of New York at Stony Brook
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 08:03:31 GMT

In article <1992Nov22.185342.29144@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Steven J Orlin) writes:
>BULLSHIT,BULLSHIT!
>
>You can completely replace the stock exhaust system on a stock ZR-1 to
>receive up to 40 more horsepower.  Its not the backpressure that messes
>up things, its the emmisions sensors.
>If you don't believe this about the ZR-1, read up on Popular Mechanics.
>
>
>sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu

	Talk about Bullshit, Popular Mechanics??, The amount of backpressure 
directly influnces the amount air flow through an engine, and therefore
through the main air flow sensor. The ability of a sensor to accomodate
for changes (increases) in flow will vary from one unit to another. The 
CorveZR-1 motor was built for high performance from the outsettset and 
considerations have probably already been made by the factorfor future 
H.P. increases via increased flow. 
	It would probably be wise to contact a car club regarding your 
particular car to see they know any specifics before you mess with it.

Sebastian
From: paraska@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Pete Paraska)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 240Z-280Z Problems
Date: 16 Nov 92 13:07:32 GMT
Organization: David Taylor Model Basin

In article <BxM7Mu.Dxn@avalon.nwc.navy.mil> erik@peewee.nwc.navy.mil (Erik van Bronkhorst
Code 3814 Phone 939-1421) writes:
>engine, and rear suspension.  Performance buffs prefer the lateral or
>"Chapman" rear struts of the 240 (&260) to the semi-trailing arms of
>the 280s.  All 280s including ZX have the same dumb semi-trailing rear susp.

Erik, you're mistaken on one point.  All 240/260/280 _Z_'s had the Chapman 
strut rear suspension.  The 280ZX, which debuted in 1979, started with the 
semi-trailing arm stuff.  I know because I just got a rear control arm from 
a 77 280Z to put in my 240Z.  The design is the same.

On the carb thing:  Many people with 73 240Z's and 74 260Z's installed the 
72 SU carbs - with great results.  One thing to consider is that the 73 240Z 
got heavier, i.e., a 72 is preferable.  The 71 is good too, but the rear 
diff should be relocated to the "new" 72-on position.

Pete (paraska@oasys.dt.navy.mil)

P.S. anyone wnating to talk with other Z-car people should subscribe to the 
z-car list.  Lots of good info there!
|////////////////////////////////////////////////|
| Pete Paraska       (paraska@oasys.dt.navy.mil) |
| David Taylor Model Basin, CARDEROCKDIV         |
|\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\|
From: frank@marvin.contex.com (Frank Perdicaro)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: choke trouble in '71 Chevy 350
Date: 19 Nov 92 13:05:44 GMT
Organization: Xyvision Design Systems

In article <Nov.18.10.58.33.1992.12685@presto.ig.com> steve@presto.ig.com (Steve Barnhouse) writes:
>
>I have a '71 El Camino with a 350 engine with Edelbrock manifold and
>Rochestor Quadrajet carb.  I'm having trouble starting when the engine
>is cold.  

I had the same problems with my '71 Olds et Quadrajet.  I could never
find suitable pieces, and dislike those exhaust heater gizmos.  I
finally bought a new Edelbrock carb with an easy to adjust electric
choke.  Very few problems since.  ( The Quadrajet was a bit old anyway
-- like 115000 miles old. )

This solution cost about as much as a carb rebuild, a new choke, and two
missed appointments/meetings.  Call Summit Racing Equipment...
-- 
	 Frank E Perdicaro, Systems Admin, etc.		Xyvision Color Systems
      Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.		101 Edgewater Drive
   inhouse: frank@marvin, x5572				Wakefield MA
outhouse: frank@contex.com, 617-245-4100x5572		018801285
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: Ken Wilkens <wilkens%nmr@venus.ycc.yale.edu>
Subject: Re: How do you set timing for optimum performance?
Organization: Yale University
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1a2
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 12:35:08 GMT

I had a 76 camaro with a 327 ci engine and the way I found to adjust
timing was to loosen the distributor just enough so if you grab it with
both hands you could turn it. Then I would drive around and see if it
would ping under diffrent conditions. if it didn't ping I would advance
it a bit more by hand, if it was pining I would retard it a bit. I found
that you can get it set in a few hours at most. and 12 degrees sounds
like a good starting point, that is about where my 327 was set!