HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: wiryaman@riscee.pko.dec.com (Santa Wiryaman)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.driving
Subject: Re: Insurance Problem :(
Date: 31 Aug 92 20:40:41 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation, Maynard MA

In article <78675@ut-emx.uucp> chitwong@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (wong chit) writes:
>
>  About half year ago, I have a car accident.  In which my insurance company
>has already declined the claim of the other party.  However, he tried the
>second time and again declined by my company.  Now this is the third time
>he is pushing me.  I am very angry since I think it was his recklessness that
>caused the accident.  I paid more than $1000 to repair my car and he has 
>obviously his bumper to repair only.  I have let the matter finish after my 
>first claim. But, Jesus!                     
>
>      Here are my questions:
>
>Is the matter already finished after my company declined him the first time?
>Otherwise, doesn't it mean that he could keep claiming against me as many 
>times as he want?
>The paper from his insurance company ask me to give my insurance company's
>name which I have given them already.  Otherwise I have to pay the amount
>they want.  My insurance just expired this month.  If I change a new comany,
>Should I go to the new insurance company or the old one?

This is my personal opinion, if you want advice, talk to a lawyer.

The way I understand it is that you were driving your car at the time of the
accident, so you are responsible for your (non)actions regardless you have
an auto insurance or not.  The liability coverage of your auto insurance covers
the other party's damage according to the insurance policy.  The fact your
insurance declined to cover the other party's claim doesn't relieve you from
your responsibility to pay damages, if you were at fault.  The fact you have
much more damage than the other party is of no relevance.  For example, if
your liability coverage limit is $20,000, and you did a $30,000 damage, your
insurance paid up to the limit, and you are still liable to pay $10,000.

So the thing to do is to establish who were at fault.  If you were not, then
let the other party sue you and you can prove your not at fault and counter-sue
for your damages.  If you were at fault, then the court will decide the amount
of the damage.  I don't know if your insurance's lawyer will represent you
in this case to protect your interests or the insurance's interests.

>
>Thank you all for your help.  
>
>From an incensed person.          
>Patrick.
>


-- 
Santa Wiryaman

INTERNET : wiryaman@riscee.pko.dec.com
UUCP     : ...!decwrl!riscee.pko.dec.com!wiryaman
Newsgroups: rec.autos.driving
Newsgroups: rec.autos.driving

The device called the "CHiPS" detector picks up the retransmitted signal 
mentioned by the first response to this note.  One of the cars in a show-
room I work in part-time has one of these.  Picking up on the L.O. freq-
uency might work but the range would be very limited.  With a 3 mile range,
the "CHiPS" detector would be a little more warning.

It sounds like a great little toy--just one more place to spend all that
"Disposeable Income" as if my wife hadn't taken care of that already! :^) 

'later,
 Gary
From: Douglas.R.Beekman@dartmouth.edu (Douglas R. Beekman)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.driving
Subject: Driving in Washington D.C.
Date: 30 Aug 92 00:38:26 GMT
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH

I am a college student who will be spending the fall working in D.C. My
only source of transportation is my '79 MGB. I would like to know the
relative safty of having a car like that in D.C. i.e. is there much of
a problem with theft and vandalism. I will be living in a fairly nice
section of Alexandria and plan to use public transportation to get to
work, so parking downtown is not an issue, but there are many places I
would like to go in the Virginia area which are not serviced by the
Metro so I would like to have my car with me. Any opinions or
suggestions?

Thanks,
Doug
From: jmm2948@zeus.tamu.edu (Jeffrey M. Mayzurk)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.driving
Subject: Re: Tailgaters abound!
Date: 3 Sep 92 19:36:00 GMT
Article-I.D.: zeus.3SEP199214364172
Organization: Texas A&M University
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <1992Sep03.030018.4358@eng.umd.edu>, russotto@eng.umd.edu (Matthew T. Russotto) writes...
>In article <1992Aug30.181406.4622@access.digex.com> jimb@access.digex.com (Jim Brooking) writes:
>>
>>As a motorcyclist, I should add:  Don't get NEAR the back of a sportbike.
>>We can outstop just about anything.  (JUST ABOUT...  Don't start arguing.)
> 
>If you do, it won't be _your_ lawyer suing the car driver.


Actually, if memory serves me correctly, the law in most states is 
written so that if you hit someone from behind, for whatever reason,
you are at fault.  It doesn't matter if the guy in front of you locks 
up his brakes or whatever -- it's your fault because either you "failed to
maintain control of vehicle" (as it would say on the accident report), or
you weren't paying attention or possibly following too closely.  Either way,
fault is almost automatically assumed by the guy at the rear.

This is how the law is in Texas, but I'm sure it varies from state to state.

So, like he said, maintain your distance from those sportbikes -- I have seen
good riders brake so hard that the rear wheel will come off the ground. 
Besides, there is no reason to follow a bike that closely... just think 
what will happen to the rider if you _do_ hit him.  That's a lot of guilt
just for following too closely.

--
Jeffrey M. Mayzurk

jmm2948@zeus.tamu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.driving
From: jimf@centerline.com (Jim Frost)
Subject: Re: Illegal Acceleration?
Organization: CenterLine Software, Inc.
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 18:04:17 GMT

moudgill@cs.cornell.edu ( Mayan Moudgill) writes:
>Just as a matter of curiousity --- I think that the best acceleration
>a wheeled vehicle can get is 1g (and that's assuming tires with a
>coefficient of friction of 1). So, min time to get from 0-60 is 2.7 sec.
>Are there any wheeled vehicles out there that claim a time lower than
>that?

Nope, you can get much more than that.  You have 1g holding you down
but the car's accelleration is lateral, not vertical.  Increasing the
coefficient of friction between the ground and the wheel will allow
better accelleration, up to the point where the angular force of the
leading edge of the tire overcomes the downforce (lifting the tire off
the ground).  You can increase the coefficient of friction by using
softer materials and wider tires.  You can increase the downforce
aerodynamically.

Remember, drag racers can hit 300mph in less than four seconds.  I
think they regularly see accellerations in the 4g range, but I'm fuzzy
on that.

The calculations are really hairy because there are so many variables.
For instance, as the tire spins faster centrifical force pulls the
center of the tire out and cuts down the contact area, reducing
friction, but by how much?  What kind of aerodynamic up- or downforces
are present on the body of the car, and how fast do they build?  Even
the air in and around the tire will have an effect as the speed
builds.  As the tire heats up, it gains stickiness (to a point), but
how fast and how much friction?

jim frost
jimf@centerline.com
From: klee@wsl.dec.com (Ken Lee)
Subject: Re: The Best time to Buy a Car?
Reply-To: klee@wsl.dec.com
Organization: DEC Western Software Laboratory
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 92 00:15:47 GMT

In my opinion, the best time to buy a car are the weeks before and after
Christmas.  The dealers are trying to clear out last years models.  The sales
people have end-of-the-month and end-of-the-year quotas to meet.  Everyone
else burned their spare cash on Christmas presents, so the sales people are
desperate.  You should be able to negotiate good deals both on the past
year's models and on the next year's models.

-- 
Ken Lee
DEC Western Software Laboratory, Palo Alto, Calif.
Internet: klee@wsl.dec.com
uucp: uunet!decwrl!klee
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: aalis@sfsuvax1.sfsu.edu (Al Bundy)
Subject: Re: LS 400
Organization: San Francisco State University
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1992 18:31:24 GMT

In article <1992Aug29.104542.26246@datamark.co.nz> thomas@datamark.co.nz (Thomas Beagle) writes:
>In article <AebL3OO00WBNI8CuxG@andrew.cmu.edu> University Entrepreneurs Association <ue33+@andrew.cmu.edu> writes:
>>The LS400 is a great car.  It is just as good as people say, but as one
>>of the auto mags said "I wonder if they copied the MB300 body design
>>freehand, or used tracing paper."
>
>Well, it has a little BMW in it too.
>
>At least it's not as ugly as the MB. It may be copied, but they did it
>better! (This is all IMHO of course.)
>
>
 I think LS 400 now looks like a Toyota Camry ---> too ordinary
From: cdodson@beast.cac.stratus.com (R. Craig Dodson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Trans. problem on 91 Lincoln TC
Date: 27 Aug 92 22:10:50 GMT
Reply-To: cdodson@beast.cac.stratus.com
Distribution: na

In article <1992Aug27.162854.25897@ncrcae.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM>  
kent@lightnin.Columbia.NCR.COM (Kent Richardson) writes:
> Just wondering if a problem my father had with his car is a common problem or
> possibly even a recall. He has had some problems with the transmission not 
> shifting properly. Upon pulling up to the gas pump (backed in) he put the 
> car into park. The car continued in reverse as soon as the brake was  
released.
> The door crushed into the post around the pumps and seems to have pushed a  
bit 
> forward. The indicator was definitely in the 'PARK' position. This happened  
once
> earlier in the week. Questions:
> 
> 	1	Is this a known problem with the 91 Lincoln Town Car?
> 	
> 	2	If it is then was it enough of a problem that Lincoln will
> 		fix the transmission for free?
> 
> 	3	If it is a known problem, could Lincoln be liable for fixing
> 		the door?
> 
> Please email answers or post.  Thanks in advance!!!!!!
> 
> kent@lightnin.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM

WOW - this is still happening !!!!

This is one of the darkest skeletons in Ford's closet, and one that's been
in there a loooooong time. For instance, I had a friend with a 1966 (that's
right 1966) Mustang that had his car RUN OVER HIM when it slipped out of
Park in a gas station. Myself, I've watched my parent's 1977 LTD wagon
roll out of the driveway and hit a neighbor's tree when it slipped out of
Park. Although not as famous as exploding Pinto's, demonic (not) accelerating
Audi's (which was really the driver's fault), or rollovers in a Samurai, 
this has been a long standing problem with Fords that has apparently STILL
not been fixed.

Amazing . . .
From: rjs@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Bob Schneider)
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1992 16:05:45 GMT
Subject: Re: Michelin MXV tire and its competitors
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA
Newsgroups: rec.autos

tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen) writes:

>which has a fondness for swapping ends).  i have a '90 RS
>with yokohama AX-323 tires.  i've also driven my friend's '91 LS with
>MXVs.  the MXVs are passable in the dry, but absolutely horrendous in the
>wet.  the traction is marginal, and breakaway occurs very abruptly.
>i'm not thrilled with my tires, but i definitely prefer them to the MXVs.
>if the MXVs cost less, maybe they'd be ok.  but for what they cost,
>there are better tires (like michelin's own XGT).

	I haven't tried the plain XGT's, but, my Spirt R/T came with
	XGT-V4's. the XGT-V4's sucked in the rain. 55MPH in moderate
	rain was down right dangerous! At replacement time, I put on a
	set of Dunlop D40-M2's. What a difference. The Dunlops feel
	better on rain than the XGT-V4's at speeds of 15+ higher. I got
	23,000 miles out of the XGT-V4's and I expect to get ~20,000 out
	of the D40-M2's (I'm already at 10K, so it's pretty easy to
	guess).

>this of course depends on how you drive.  if you never see six grand on
>your tach and if you think power oversteer means there's too much power
>assist, then MXVs will serve you well (but not your wallet).  otherwise,
>get something else.

	The MXV's on the MB 300SD I used to own would only last about
	20K miles. As others have mentioned, the wet traction sucked big
	time. Quite frankly, I found no redeeming qualities with the
	MXV's.
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: kenny@osf.org (Kenneth Crudup)
Subject: Re: Yet another fancy piece of cops' equipment
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 17:09:36 GMT


All the Boston and MetroScum motorcycle cops ride Harleys. I didn't think they
handed out anything else. If you can stomach it, check out the intro to the 
show "CHiPs" sometime.

	-Kenny
-- 
Kenneth R. Crudup, Contractor, OSF DCE QA
OSF, 11 Cambridge Center, Cambridge, MA 02142	+1 617 621 7306
kenny@osf.osf.org			OSF has nothing to do with this post.
Not one of the "PC" weenies.
From: erich.lim@cutting.hou.tx.us (Erich Lim) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: LASAR DETECTOR..
Date: 27 Aug 92 18:26:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: The Cutting Edge - Houston, TX - 713-466-1525
Reply-To: erich.lim@cutting.hou.tx.us (Erich Lim) 

 pal@angelo.amd.com (P.A.L.) writes:
-> Since they are coming out with a laser radar (ie. light beam instead
-> of RF) eventually all the existing radar detectors will become
-> useless.

   Nope, very few cops have Lasar's due to their high costs.  Very few
urban areas have lasers, so existing (X,K,Ka) radar detectors are still
very useful.  You can be laser detectors for as low as $99 from
Passport, many other manufactures such as BEL, Uniden, and Cobra also
have laser detecting units out.  Instead of using laser, many law
enforcement agencies are now using Stalker, which is extended Ka band
which most radar detecors can't detect.  But then again, all of the new
radar detectors on the market have the extended Ka band to detect
Stalker.

  Erich Lim
   Internet add:   erich.lim@cutting.hou.tx.us
                                                                                        
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: sharen@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com (Sharen A. Rund)
Subject: Re: Haggling with car dealers
Organization: Lockheed Missiles and Space Co.
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 92 21:19:13 GMT

In article <1992Aug28.114531.819@tcom.stc.co.uk> hale%mother@tcom.stc.co.uk writes:
>
>Does anyone have any effective techniques for haggling a car dealer in the hope of getting
>a discount? 

last time I bought a car I just asked them what's their best price 
(lowest price) that I could walk out the door with - then I told them 
what I'd like to pay and we agreed on a middle price that was closer
to my price

the car before that I told them I wanted to pay $100 over factory - 
they said they couldn't do it - I said OK I'll see you around and 
walked out the door - they called me and asked me to come in & I got 
almost the price I asked for ($200 over factory sticker)

-- 
________________       __        ________________   "They that can give up
\_________      \     /_ \      /      _________/  essential liberty to 
 \_________      \_____/  \____/      _________/  obtain temporary safety
  \___________________      __________________/  deserve neither liberty 
                     /______\                   nor safety."  
ALL disclaimers apply ....                           --Benjamin Franklin
From: lstowell@pyrnova.mis.pyramid.com (Lon Stowell)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Help!  Mildew odors from my ventilation system!
Keywords: Laser mildew odor ventialtion air-conditioning
Date: 27 Aug 92 23:32:16 GMT
Reply-To: lstowell@pyrnova.pyramid.com (Lon Stowell)
Organization: Pyramid Technology Corp., Mountain View, CA
Originator: daemon@sword.eng.pyramid.com

In article <1992Aug27.031202.16788@mnemosyne.cs.du.edu> sborders@nyx.cs.du.edu (Scott Borders) writes:
>
>If the best that I can do is to treat the symptom, does anyone have 
>any suggestions for a good air-freshener that I can get *into* the
>ventilation system in some way?
    Spray some household peroxide into the AIR intake for the AC and
    heater.   

    If that isn't strong enough, use hair bleaching peroxide...or go
    to a dealer and buy the peroxide spray they use.

    The moisture from your evaporator coils makes a great breeding
    ground for mildews and molds....and the physical design of some
    A/C's practically guarantees same.

    You may want to check under your car after having the A/C on for
    some time on a hot muggy day.  There SHOULD be a good puddle of
    water underneath the A/C drain area.  If not, it may be clogged
    with gyecch and needs cleaning.
From: collin@angelo.amd.com (Collin K. Ong)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: New Probe/Old Celica Styling
Date: 3 Sep 92 18:35:11 GMT
Organization: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc.

aefron@cornerstone.com (Andy Efron) writes:

>Has anyone else noticed that the Probe's styling (from the doors back, viewed 
>from the side) is almost exactly that of the previous generation Celica?  The 
>back half of the Probe looks exactly like my '87 Celica hatchback, with a 
>long rear/side window, invisible C pillars and short rear deck.  It also 
>looks like the angle of the rear glass is nearly the same.  The automotive 
>press appears not only to have missed this entirely, but have praised the 
>styling as fresh and innovative (to paraphrase several articles).  What gives 
>here?

I noticed this the other day too as I was coming up on an old celica 
from the side-rear.  I've also noticed that the Ford Escort 4-door sedan
is nearly identical in all respects (exterior looks-wise) to the previous
generation Honda Civic 4-door sedan.  Both car are praised as good 
American cars.  What does this say about American design nowdays?
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: joec@fid.morgan.com (Joe Collins)
Subject: Toyota 1993 price increase averages 2.6%
Organization: None
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 18:03:47 GMT


   Toyota said prices for its 1993 cars and trucks, including the 
new Corolla model, will increase an average of 2.6%, or $375 from 
similarly equipped 1992-model msrp.

   The 1993 Corolla (going on sale 9/4), will show an average price 
increase of about 3.9%, or $445 over similarly equipped 1992 models. 
The Corrolla will be compact vs the 1992 version which was a subcompact.

   The 1993 Camry has no model/feature changes from the 1992 model.

Joe
joec@morgan.com

Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: TE00 <TE00@polytec1.polymtl.ca>
Subject: Re: Honda Civic Bashing continues...
Organization: Ecole Polytechnique de Montreal
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 14:10:13 GMT

>Where did you find a 74mpg Civic?  The Civic VX is suppose to be the mileage
>winner, and it doesn't get anywhere near 74 mpg.  It gets more like 55 on
>the highway, less around town.  And for what it is worth, few of the Civics
>sold are the VX model.  To get the prices you quote you have to buy a CX, which
>doesn't have the highest mileage engine and is an overall stripper.
>
>A side note though, the VX has aluminum wheels that are much nicer looking than
>any of the wheels put on any of the other Civic hatchbacks, including the Si.
>The Si has these plastic wheelcovers.  I would have thought the highest priced
>hatchback would have gotten aluminum wheels also.  Go figure.
>.
The difference in the quoted mileage simply comes from the difference
between an Imperial gallon (4.5 liters) and a US gallon (3.8 liters).
If the americans finally switched to the international system of units,
this would not happen...:)

francois

Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: levitin@cadsys.enet.dec.com (Samuel M. Levitin)
Subject: Is repaired unibody really good as new?
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 04:03:00 GMT



A 16-year-old cretin plowed into my 1991 Honda CRX HF on its 
first birthday last Sunday. To fix this car with new parts is estimated
at $6300+. The adjustor says it is on the borderline between
write-off and repairable. I really want to fix it because
they don't make CRX's any more. (I don't consider the del Sol
much like a CRX HF.)

So here's the question: can a unibody car such as the CRX HF
be repaired with new parts by a competent body shop to be
as good as it was before the accident, or will I notice
subtle (or worse) differences for the rest of the life of this car?

Samuel M. Levitin	Digital Equipment Corporation	Hudson, MA 01749
Semiconductor Engineering Group/CAD	Levitin@cadsys.enet.dec.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos,rec.autos.tech,misc.consumers,sci.environment,talk.environment
From: lallo@stsci.edu (Matthew D. Lallo,622,4577)
Subject: Crossposting
Reply-To: lallo@stsci.edu
Organization: Space Telescope Science Institute, Baltimore MD
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 17:50:13 GMT


Folks. 
There seems to be a recent trend originating in each of the above 3 groups
(rec.autos,rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.vw) to crosspost material to rec.autos.sport.
It doesn't belong here. In an effort to keep this from just another ignored
flame, I will try to elucidate why this is inappropriate.

rec.autos.sport could have almost been named rec.sport.auto because it deals 
with officially sanctioned motorsports. It does not concern itself with sports
cars for the street, which are a world apart from racing cars despite what
the car companies would like you to believe.


Example postings inappropriate to r.a.s        Likely replies you'll receive
----------------------------------------       -----------------------------

1.) What sports/sporty car should I buy?       A McLaren MP4/5 or a Williams FW14

2.) Why is my Alfa always breaking down?       That's funny, the Formula 1 Alfa's
					       always did quite well, eh?

3.) Dude! My VW bus is way radical.            VW bus? And in what series did this
					       compete? Was it homologated?

4.) Hey I got this great Polish joke.          Screw off, loser.  



O.K.?
Thanks you for your time.
Matt
From: philw@vice.ICO.TEK.COM (Philip W White)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Dealing with the Dealer.
Date: 27 Aug 92 03:02:07 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Tektronix Inc., Beaverton, Or.

In article <1992Aug26.052841.13012@uwm.edu> greis@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Gayla Ann Greis) writes:
>From vn Wed Aug 26 00:22:33 1992
>
 (lines removed)
>Even though you are presenting a check to the dealer with your loan
>value pre-approved, as you are working the deal, mention the rate that
>you have to the F&I guy, and hint that you will let them finance you if
>they can beat that payment by, say $5-10 per month. Often, a dealer will
>take a mini-deal "front" because, even at a minimal interest rate
>markup, the dealer still makes money, and you get a better payment - by
>eliminating the middleman - the bank. Be aware though, the salesman only
>
I've only bought one new car in my life, but I used dealer financing
and would much rather have used bank or credit union.  Even if the
rate were higher.
 
1. the interest rate was calculated in some seller-friendly form,
  not the amortization schedule from the bank I can understand.
  I tried to fit it to my understanding of rule of 78's and failed.
  My accountant failed to explain it.  Library books were no help.
 
2. Getting a payoff amount was an exercise in masochism.  Apparently
  one person sat in a office somewhere with one phone.  While she
  was working on a payoff omount for a caller, the phone was off-
  hook.  She was real busy.  I must have called 20 times before
  the phone actually rang.  Maybe the car dealers and banks used
  a different phone number with some responsiveness at the other end?
 
This was from Chrysler in about 1987.
 
Would I have been out of line to have asked for copies of all
relevant paperwork BEFORE I was asked to sign on the dotted line?
So I could take them home, have my lawyer look 'em over, etc.?
 
Would I have been out of line to ask for the payoff amount
phone number BEFORE signing any paperwork on the loan?
Then I could try it for responsiveness.... ?
 
Not just Chrysler.  I had a friend who underpaid by less than 10
cents on a Ford payment, and had the office threatening an
infantry assault against his credit rating (circa 1982).
 
      Phil White   Tektronix, Beaverton, OR
USENET:  philip.w.white@tek.COM
 US Mail: Mail Stop 59-432, P.O. Box 500, Beaverton OR 97077-0001
Newsgroups: rec.autos