HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: bobd@.informix.com (Bob Dodge)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: HELP - blackspot war
Date: 30 Jul 92 16:18:50 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc., Lenexa Ks. Division, USA
Originator: bobd@jupiter


	We have had a most unusual July here in Kansas, with rain about
every other day it seems.  With all the moisture and humidity, the roses
are suffering badly from black spot.  Currently using a spray recommended
by local lawn and garden retailer (brand name Natural Guard, Liquid Copper
Fungicide, contains copper oleate) but it states in the instructions that
the roses should not be sprayed more than once every week.  Since it rains
every other day, I am loosing ground here.  
	Is there anyone out in netland who raises roses in this type of
hot, humid enviornment?  Can I spray the roses every day or every other
day without killing them?  I seem to remember a post which mentioned a
"natural home brew" fungicide.  If so, can someone share this with me?
	Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  I have found real
experience is better than most of the advice I get at the lawn and garden.
If things keep going like this, I'll be out of roses in a week or so.
Speedy reply would be helpful.

thanks in advance,

Bob Dodge  [pyramid|uucp]!infmx!bobd  bobd@informix.com
From: me@cbnewsb.cb.att.com (william.j.bruncati)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Rototillers
Date: 21 Jul 92 14:03:07 GMT
Article-I.D.: cbfsb.1992Jul21.140307.6382
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T

I'm looking into buying a Rototiller for my 20ft x 50ft garden.
Consumer Reports did a test on them but I'd also like to hear
about anyones personal experiences and preferences. 

						Thanks in advance,
						Bill Bruncati
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: pharvey@quack.sac.ca.us (Paul Harvey)
Subject: Re: "sludge" or biosolids
Organization: The Duck Pond public unix: +1 408 249 9630, log in as 'guest'.
	<12474@inews.intel.com> <1992Jul25.040456.18178@serval.net.wsu.edu>
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 1992 18:30:50 GMT

pharvey@mipos3.intel.com (Paul Harvey) writes:
I thought the main scientific concern was the presence of heavy metals in
unknown quantites that vary from lot to lot depending on the source of the
sludge. These heavy metals eventually poison the soil and can get into
plants and elsewhere in the food cycle, like us. Has the issue of heavy
metals in sewerage sludge been solved?

sfinfroc@beta.tricity.wsu.edu (Scott H. Finfrock) writes:
I wondered about this too, but while the issue did come up it
seemed to me that the local Ag. experts did not consider it a
problem.  Maybe the crop in question (wheat) doesn't pick up the
metals.

Yeah, well similar things happened with DDT. You have to remember that
the goal of most Ag. experts is to show a profit in the short term. The
usual tendency is to overlook possible problems in the interest of
"progress". It may be that the heavy metals in question don't end up in
the grain, but they may be in the straw that gets used else where and
they may be poisoning the soil for use by our children. It helps to
think about the long term implications, if you don't, I assure almost no
one else will. There is another related issue called biomass. This is
different in that with biomass, the source of the material is usually
know and the constituints are constant and usually "clean". For example,
you might be able to make good use of the waste at your house because
you have control over what goes into it. But that is the big problem
with sewerage waste. Us citizens and our companies literally dump
everything down the drain even if there are laws against it. I'm not
saying there is a conspiracy everywhere you look, but it's your body and
your land and it will be the land of your children, so these are things
you may want to consider. Don't be fooled into thinking anyone else is
concerned about these issues, after all somebody is buying all that
weed-n-feed.
From: koo@tcville.HAC.COM (Frances Koo)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: herb questions
Keywords: chamomile
Date: 23 Jul 92 22:33:14 GMT
Reply-To: koo@tcville.HAC.COM (Frances Koo)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Hughes Aircraft Co., El Segundo, CA

In article 10097@microsoft.com, garyj@microsoft.com (Gary L. Jackson
(USA)) writes:

> RE:  chamomile, aka camomile.  Now I'm really confused on the two
> available varieties:  "German" Chamomile vs. "Roman" Chamomile.

In article 13297 dadams@cray.com (David Adams) write:

+ Both varieties are used for tea, but in different places.  The Germans use
+ the German variety and consider the Roman variety to be a weed.  The English
+ consider the German variety to be a weed and use the other kind.

I have both varieties: English Chamomile ('Anthemis nobilis') and German
Chamomile ('Matricaria recutita' sp?).  I like Chamomile tea and had the
same problem trying to figure out which one it was that I liked.  Anyway,
I gave up and got both in February of this year.

The English Chamomile is like a ground cover, while the German Chamomile
can get pretty tall (it's about 1 ft tall now, and I've read that they can
get to 2 ft tall).  The German one has a yellow-green color.  While the
English Chamomile is a darker shade of green.  I've read that the English
Chamomile doesn't mind being stepped on, so it can be used between stepping
stones, where it could release its fragrance.

Since I got them in small 2.5" pots, the German Chamomile has quadrupled in
size, while the English Chamomile has doubled.  Both have been repotted, and
both plants smell nice.  (I just moved my English Chamomile since
I discovered that my gardener has been mowing the flowers off!)

To date, I've only tasted the German Chamomile.  It's covered with little
daisy-like flowers, and they are very mild.  The flowering is extremely
prolific, so I can understand where the term 'weed' comes from.  :-)

My guess is that it takes about 4 fresh tablespoons to get the same taste
per cup (as a Celestial Seasonings Chamomile Tea teabag).  Don't worry, I
can cut 4 tablespoons of flowers and still have as much left over from the
same plant.  The taste is almost the same, but I think the fresh one is
more fragrant.

I've heard that English Chamomile has a more tea-like taste (i.e. less
mild), and I'm still waiting to try that one out.  But I'm quite happy with
the German one so far.  It's really soothing for a drink before bed.
Watch out for aphids, though!

While I'm at it, does anyone know how to propagate these plants?  
I like the idea of having some English Chamomile between my stepping stones.
Should I let the German Chamomile go to seed?

Thanks, 
    Frances (koo@tcville.hac.com)


Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: james@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (James White)
Subject: Re: Eating onion sets
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 11:41:44 GMT
Reply-To: JamesWhite@vnet.ibm.com
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM Rochester
Keywords: onions

In article <langley.9.712264746@ace.acadiau.ca>, langley@ace.acadiau.ca (WANDA LANGLEY) writes:
|> Can anyone tell me what insect/bird/animal has an appetite for the tops off 
|> of onion sets.  Our onions were doing beautifully and suddenly we noticed 
|> that the tops were getting chewed off - some really close to the ground, 
|> others not so close.  It's really annoying because we had 100 onion sets and 
|> they were doing so well - now all but half a dozen have been ruined.  Any 
|> suggestions would be appreciated.  We thought of cut-worms but didn't see 
|> any when we checked.  Thanks.


If it was my garden, I would say that it was my children.  Can't seem to get them to leave the onion tops alone. 
Trouble is that my 2 year old likes to see the onion responsible for the top so I find lots of them pulled.  This
hungry bunch of offspring then proceed to the snap peas, peas, carrots, ground cherries, and even raw potatoes.
 
As a side note, my wife worries that they do not eat enough food at the supper table.  It doesn't worry me.
  
-- 

James White
From: fr@compu.com (Fred Rump from home)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: what to do with overexcited amaryllis?
Date: 30 Jul 92 16:19:16 GMT
Organization: CompuData Inc.

pamela@t.Stanford.EDU (Pamela D. Kinion) writes:

>One of my amaryllis finished a while ago (less than a month) and,
>although I stopped watering it, I haven't put it in its bag in the
>garage yet.  I noticed today that it's growing again and so is a
>little baby!  So, what do I do with it now?  It can't be good for
>it to grow again so soon without a rest, can it?  Any advice appreciated!

I have the same question. We tried letting one of them dry out but new blades 
start growing anyway. So what is one to do except to set the thing into some 
ground and out comes this beautiful set of four flowers in a perfect square.

I then set both of the ones we have into a large pot outside and they seem to 
be doing fine but obviously no longer blooming. 

It seems almost cruel to dig a perfectly nice plant out of a growth 
environment and let it die off by drying it out. Is that all one is supposed 
to do with amaryllis? When do you decide to plant them again?

The one I'm talking about above bloomed in late May. What's the story here?

Fred
-- 
W. Fred Rump 	office:	   fred@COMPU.COM     'mans feet have grown/so big 
26 Warren St.   home: fred@icdi10.compu.com  that he/forgets his littleness'
Beverly, NJ. 08010                          		Don Marquis 
609-386-6846    bang:uunet!cdin-1!icdi10!fr   
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: kevin@howdy.cc.columbia.edu (Kevin Harris)
Subject: Re: Cactus mail order dealer?
Keywords: cacti, humor, mail-order
Organization: Columbia University
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 19:01:36 GMT

[Coupla people want sources for cacti-by-mail. "Ouch," says the
mailman.]

I have a catalog from Henrietta's Nursery in Ca. I haven't ordered
anything from these folks, so I don't know what they are like
to do business with, but here's their info:

Henrietta's Nursery
1345-E N. Brawley
Fresno, Ca. 93722

Catalogs are US $.50 and darned well worth it - they are both
hurorous and informative.


Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: sjane@bmers248.bnr.ca (sjs)
Subject: Re: earwigs
Organization: Irrelevant, Ottawa, Canada
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 92 14:46:30 GMT

In article <92207.124636IO11438@MAINE.MAINE.EDU> IO11438@MAINE.MAINE.EDU (Just Suppose or Juxtapose) writes:
>    [...]       I startled a couple dozen earwigs that I watched scurry
>  under my black plastic mulcher. Seems like an ideal place to raise them:
>   dark and damp.  So how DO I keep them under control?  I would prefer an
>   organic method if possible.

Well, a solution of Sunlight soap, just about the same strength as for 
washing dishes, kills earwigs and doesn't harm the plants (unless the 
concentration is too strong).  What one of my friends does is go out at
night with a flashlight & his sprayer & sprays all the ones he sees.  
That's a bit extreme for some of us; we just spray them when we see them,
we don't hunt them down! 

Good luck!
sjs

--
It's not irrelevant; it's a hippopotamus.   sjane@BNR.CA
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Baby Corn
From: A.S.Chamove@massey.ac.nz (A.S. Chamove)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 92 00:21:19 GMT
Organization: Massey University, Palmerston North, New Zealand
X-Reader: NETNEWS/PC Version 2c

In the heady days of the 1960's we used to go into the field-corn
fields around Madison, Wisc and pick the field corn when it was just
baby corn and either eat it raw or cook it.
I think baby corn is just adult corn when it is a baby. That is the
main reason there is no catalogue entry for baby corn.
Of course some enterprising person will soon put in an entry at
double the price and make some money.

-- 
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Arnold Chamove
Massey University Psychology
Palmerston North, New Zealand

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: mwalker@taimyr.Colorado.EDU (Marilyn Walker)
Subject: Re: Help! Nasty beetles on pumpkins
Organization: University of Colorado at Boulder
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 16:22:41 GMT

In article <1992Jul17.200509.21567@ennews.eas.asu.edu> morrell@trchp.eas.asu.edu (Darryl Morrell) writes:
>Our pumpkins are infested with hundreds of beetles of the following
>sort: They are small, < 1/4 inch long (just a little larger than your
>typical ladybug), with white and black stripes running longitudinally
>along their bodies.  Their bodies are oval shaped.  They have
>voraciously attacked my pumpkins, squash, cantalope, and watermelon;
>all they leave when they finish with a leaf is a fine network of
>veins.
>
>What control methods can I use?  I am most reluctant to use poisons.
>Does anyone have any advice (particularly brand names and sources)?
>
Sounds like squash beetles, which infested my last garden for years.  I found
the following organic methods kept them reasonably controlled - we still 
always had more than we could eat:

(1) Check the undersides of the leaves frequently for eggs.  They are in
neat little rows, light brown or orange about the size of pinheads.  They can
be easily scraped off by hand.  This will keep your population from growing,
anyway.

(2) Pour boiling water over the adults.  Do this every morning.  I wouldn't
do this on seedlings, but it has never damaged my adult plants, and I try to
avoid contact as much as possible.  The beetles are often on the soil at the
base of the plant, usually mating voraciously.  You won't get them all, but
it keeps the numbers reasonable.  The rest can often be hand-picked; they
don't move very fast.

(3) I THINK the organic toxin sold as Sabadilla Dust kills these guys.  
Try Gardens Alive or Gardener's Supply catalogs.

Good luck.

Marilyn Walker
mwalker@taimyr.colorado.edu
From: lienhard@daydreamer.metaphor.com (Steve Lienhard)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Artificial light for IVY and DRACAENA will it work?
Date: 28 Jul 92 21:11:47 GMT
Organization: Metaphor Computer Systems, Mountain View, CA

I had a dracaena marginata and a pothos plant for 2 years in an office with
nothing but flourescent light (4 bulbs at 4 ft - total 160 watts) and
they flourished.  The ceiling height was about 10 ft.  Growth was slow, and
they dropped a few leaves the first few months, but then they stabilized.
I left the lights on 24 hours a day.

You might also try an aglaonema... they tolerate even lower light levels 
and are quite attractive.

I now have an office with a west window (yeah!!).  I still have both plants, 
but now I also have an areca palm and a poinsettia from last Christmas that
just keeps getting bigger and bigger.  Good luck!
-- 
--------------------------------------------------------------------
               __
Steve Lienhard \/                |       
lienhard@HQ.M4.metaphor.com      |       -If you can't use your head,
Metaphor Computer Systems        |          you have to use your feet.
Mt. View, CA
From: jaya@encinitas.Eng.Sun.COM (Jaya Holla)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Cashew Tree Seedling Source?
Date: 31 Jul 1992 17:27:59 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Mt. View, Ca.
NNTP-Posting-Host: encinitas

In article <1992Jul30.195203.16874@usenet.ins.cwru.edu> br105@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey A. Del Col) writes:
>
>Does anyone know of a source of cashew tree seedlings?  
>
>I suppose truly fresh--unroasted-- cashew nuts would work, but I
>haven't any idea where to get those either.  Maybe somebody
>with access to Brazilian produce stores might be able to find some?
>
>J. Del Col
>

No unroasted fresh cashews will not work. The cashew seed is surrounded
by a hard covering. The cashews are shelled before they are sold. 
The cashew fruit consists of two parts. A fleshy part below the cashew
nut. To give you an idea imagine a hachiya persimmon with a cashew nut 
on top. The cashew is covered by a greyish cover.  The fleshy part tastes
atringent but is edible.

I have seen several cashew trees in India and eaten the fleshy portion
of the fruit. The trees are not very tall. The tree shape is
similar to a persimmon tree.   I remember throwing the cashew part 
of away because it requires further processing to be useful! 

Your posting sure brought back memories of summers in India and all the 
various summer fruits! I will keep a lookout for a plantable seed
next time I visit India.

Goodluck in your quest for a cashew seedling.


			Jaya
From: jaya@encinitas.Eng.Sun.COM (Jaya Holla)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Roses
Date: 27 Jul 1992 17:40:28 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Mt. View, Ca.
Distribution: na
NNTP-Posting-Host: encinitas

In article <1992Jul22.133006.613@calmasd.prime.com> jhb@calmasd.prime.com (Jim Bishop) writes:
>
>I toured J&P (Jackson & Perkins) in Medford Oregon several years ago. 
>All of their roses are grown in Bakersfield CA.  
>
>Jim

My sister's J&P rose plants are doing extremely well. So I am 
interested in planting some next year. Could some kind soul mail
me information on getting one of their catalogues? Thanks. 

				Jaya
From: darney@cs.widener.edu (Chuck Darney)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Ornamental Tree Seed Sources
Date: 29 Jul 1992 10:24:00 -0400
Organization: Widener University CS Department, Chester PA
NNTP-Posting-Host: ashley.cs.widener.edu

I often look through nurseries to find some unusual ornamental trees
and most are difficult to find.  I am not adverse to growing trees
from seed as I am not in that much of a hurry and enjoy dabbling in a
little propagation when possible.  Does anyone know of a seed source
for the following trees?
   Chionanthus virginicus  (White Fringe Tree)
   Franklinia alatamaha    (Franklin Tree)
   Elliotia racemosa       (Georgia Plume)

I have started trees from seed before and often end up with far more
than I need.  I try to find nurseries dealing with unusual plants that
may be interested in buying my excess.  Has anyone else tried doing
this? 
   Chuck Darney
   darney@cs.widener.edu
   Chester County, PA  (Zone 6-6/7)



Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: frosty@med.unc.edu (Steve Loechel)
Subject: Japanese beetles
Originator: frosty@maiden
Organization: UNC-CH School of Medicine
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 19:55:36 GMT

A posting I made last week got mangled. I'll try again.
To avoid the disposal problem when using kerosene to kill
Japanese beetles, I use a bucket with water and a little bit
of insecticidal soap. Drop the beetles in, wait an hour, and
then pour the whole mess on your compost pile. You can also
accumulate dead beetles in the bucket for a few days before
disposing of them. (If you wait any longer, the smell of
decomposing beetles will be unacceptable, to put it mildly.)
The small amount of insecticidal soap does no harm to earthworms
in the compost pile, and the beetles get turned into plant food.

--Frosty
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: vsummers@polaris.cv.nrao.edu (Vince Summers)
Subject: Re: The Burrowers
Organization: National Radio Astronomy Observatory
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 20:34:09 GMT

     The hole opening size is very characteristic of the animal.  One of 
the books by Don Stokes gives sizes and animals.  It was about tracking
animals, I believe.  Sorry I can't help further though.

Vince Summers
vsummers.cv.nrao.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: ramirez@julia.math.ucla.edu (Alice Ramirez)
Subject: More on slugs/snails
Organization: UCLA Mathematics Department
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 92 03:38:50 GMT

Oh, and let us not forget banana slugs (campus mascot of U.C. Santa Cruz)
These lovelies glow a nice banana yellow (hence the name).  My favorite
professor, who shall henceforth be known as Grossman, once lent me a book
on the topic of banana slugs that included a detailed description of their
mating habits.  This book was written by an amateur naturalist (spiritual
kin to Darwin as far as I'm concerned) who devoted her life to the study of 
these fascinating creatures.  

it seems that banana slugs are hermaphroditic, but can only mate once as
a male because  after having entered a female banana slug (in the usual 
way) the male's penis swells and will not shrink down again.  The only way
it can free itself to resume eating your garden is to bite off its own
snagged member.  Once it does, the slug survives, but never again as a male.
I find this sort of natural history trivia interesting.  I hope at least a
few others do.  

On a slightly different note, the advice about vinegar melting slugs
is most heartening.  I am going to try to find a way of adapting this
to a far more obnoxiously prevalent pest in my own garden...the common
escargot snail, curse of California gardeners everywhere, but especially
down here in good old So.Cal.  There is nothing in the world as gross
as walking outside barefoot after dark and stepping on one of these things.
The distinct pop, the sensation of something collapsing under the sole of your
foot followed by the even more revolting sensation of something wet and
slimy gushing up between your toes.  A real stomach turner and as powerful an
argument as any I know against importing any foreign life forms without
making damn good and sure they won't run wild and cause problems.z
From: cigno@sgi.com (Kevin Walsh)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: "sludge" or biosolids
Date: 25 Jul 92 18:14:33 GMT
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc.

In article <1992Jul25.040456.18178@serval.net.wsu.edu> sfinfroc@beta.tricity.wsu.edu (Scott H. Finfrock) writes:
>In article <12474@inews.intel.com> pharvey@mipos3.intel.com (Paul Harvey) writes:
>>In article <1992Jul24.193758.29196@serval.net.wsu.edu> 
>>
>>I thought the main scientific concern was the presence of heavy metals ...
 ...
>I wondered about this too, but while the issue did come up it
>seemed to me that the local Ag. experts did not consider it a
>problem.  

	The capacity of people to ignore a problem is beyond measure.
	Madame Curie refused to recognize the dangers of radium.
	If an Ag. expert had done the necessary testing, presented 
	the results, and said there was or was not a problem, that's 
	one thing.  

	Testing is important.  Many problems are not immediatly obvious.
	A response of "Uhhh, I haven't seen anybody get sick." just is
	not good enough.
--
------
"I've always thought of Boston traffic as Brownian motion with
evil intent."  -- Don Coolidge coolidge@speaker.sgi.com
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: allan@visix.com (Allan Pirie)
Subject: Re: Rabbit!
Organization: Visix Software Inc., Reston, VA
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 92 21:43:58 GMT

In article <1992Jul24.194713.20853@ncar.ucar.edu> shan@niwot.scd.ucar.edu (Val Shanahan) writes:
>
>I can't offer any help on trapping rabbits, but I have heard of another way
>to keep them out of a garden.  Supposedly, if you plant marigolds around
>your garden, the rabbits will stop to eat the marigolds and not get any
>further than that.  I don't know if it really works, but it sounds good.
>
>Val
>

I have a 600 square foot garden planted with mant veggies and boardered with marigolds. The rabbits hide under the flowers. I put human hair around and they stay out of the garden until the rain washes the smell from the hair. Keeps deer away as well.
Al
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: jareed@rodan.acs.syr.edu (Judith Ann Reed)
Subject: early blight on tomatoes?
Organization: Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 92 23:02:03 EDT

 What can I do about early blight (yellowing leaves, w/ small black spots, 
 that turn brown and die) that has returned from last year to haunt me?
 Have some chemical from farm store that will supposedly kill it, but sounds 
 as if it will also kill me and my family - instructions advise masks,
 protective clothing, gloves, etc. - true and necessary?

 Thanks

--
 Judith Reed - sysmgr - Syracuse University High Energy Physics
 judith@suhep.phy.syr.edu
 jareed@rodan.acs.syr.edu