HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Killing burglars.
Date: 19 Aug 92 16:13:17 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

In article <1992Aug17.035838.9792@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> 
	patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie) writes:
>In article <1992Aug14.181611.23008@informix.com> davek@informix.com 
	(David Kosenko) writes:
>
>>if someone breaks a law, it is up to the system to find them guilty.
>>Someone breaking into your house *still* has the right to due
>>process under the law.  Sure, if they threaten your life, you can
>>shoot/whatever them in self defence.  The onus is on *you*, though, to
>>be able to prove your life was threatened.  This does not always lead
>
>Sorry, but you can't have it both ways. The onus is still on the system
>to prove that he *didn't* attack me. If the system wants to try.

Well, I'm no lawyer, but my understanding is that, should you kill such
person, you could be charged with manslaugter or whatever.  It would be
up to you and your lawyer to convince the jury that you acted in 
self-defence.  I find it very hard to believe that charges would not be
brought against you.  Generally, the police do not look favorably on
people taking justice into their own hands.

>In fact, you seem to be making the mistake a lot of people make. "The
>system" is not, and never has been, the only legitimate method for handling
>criminals. If an intruder enters my house, it is *my* responsibility to
>defend it and myself. If that defense is best served by calling the law,
>good; if not, it's still my responsibility to take care of the situation.

You, as is true of all of us, must do what you think is right.  The judicial
system will do what the laws state is right.  While you may be doing what
you think is right be killing the intruder, the law may well take another
perspective. If you have some *concrete* proof (quote from the legal
code) of these alternative "legitimate methods", I'd be real interested to 
hear it (I'm not doubting that it exists, just that I've never heard it, 
and the net is a great source of anecdotal wisdom/legal advice/etc. that 
is worth exactly what you pay for it).

Just out of curiousity (and this is an open question, not just directed at
George): if you found an intruder in your house, and they dropped what they
had and ran, would you chase them?  Is it often the case that confronting
an intruder and saying "get out!" from a safe distance will result in
their attacking you?  Or is it more likely that they would vacate the
premises?

I suppose a distinction needs to be made between a burgarler and someone 
with assault in mind.  I am under the impression that the average
burgarler is not interested in any encounters.  Homicidal maniacs 
probably do not mind them.

Dave
-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
The heart and the mind on a parallel course, never the two shall meet.
						-E. Saliers
Xref: sparky misc.consumers.house:10731 misc.consumers:15124
From: lmtra@uts.amdahl.com (Leon Traister)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,misc.consumers
Subject: To Thomas D. Feller (thomasf@deschutes.ico.tek.com)
Date: 12 Aug 92 20:17:09 GMT
Followup-To: poster
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

Sorry to take net bandwith on this but the above mail address doesn't
seem to work from here.

Regarding windows, you mention a ranking based on performance.  Can
you supply a reference?

Thanks,
Leon Traister (lmttra@amdahl.uts.amdahl.com)
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Shooting, Poisoning, Cruelty
Date: 19 Aug 92 17:39:31 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

(Carl Heinzl) writes:
>>"A liberal is just a conservative who hasn't been mugged yet"

(Rich Greenberg) writes:
>"A conservative is a liberal who has just been mugged."


A conservative never considers what it would be like if they were on
the other side (e.g. poor, accused of a crime, unemployed, etc.)...

Dave
-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
The heart and the mind on a parallel course, never the two shall meet.
						-E. Saliers
From: ems@michael.apple.com (E. Michael Smith)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Splitting a circuit
Keywords: electricity
Date: 13 Aug 92 23:14:51 GMT
Organization: Apple Computer Inc, Cupertino, CA

In article <1992Aug13.000312.23967@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com writes:
>In article <jmcging.713646675@ssa.gov> jmcging@oss724.ssa.gov writes:

>>Would swapping to flourescent
>>[which I prefer to incadescent anyway] further reduce load on the circuit,
>>so maybe we could turn a fixture back on?
>
>Probably would. A 45 watt flourescent can be used to replace a 60 watt
>incandescent in many places.

Uh, I replaced 60 watt bulbs with 18w Compact Fluorescents just fine!
And a 22w circular fluorescent did a dandy job of replacing a 100w bulb.

I think the 45 is way overkill...

Try this, turn of 3/4 of the 60 watt bulbs.  If everything is fine,
go buy some 18w Lights of America or Panasonic CF bulbs to replace them...
(Or OSRAM if you like a slightly less yellow color...)

-- 

E. Michael Smith  ems@apple.COM

'Whatever you can do, or dream you can, begin it.  Boldness has
 genius, power and magic in it.'  -  Goethe

I am not responsible nor is anyone else.  Everything is disclaimed.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: jhp@sactoh0.sac.ca.us (Jim H. Puga)
Subject: SUMMARY: Vinyl vs Aluminum windows
Reply-To: jhp@sactoh0.SAC.CA.US (Jim H. Puga)
Organization: Sacramento Public Access Unix, Sacramento, Ca.
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 92 04:57:59 GMT

Well, I wasn't swamped by answers to my question about which type of
window to use(Aluminum or vinyl).  I did get some answers, so thanks
to those who did respond.  You know who you are.

It appears that window type is really a personal preference.  One type
doesn't appear to be any better than the other.

Aluminum suffers from bad press in that condensation can form on the
window and ruin the interior of your window(sheetrock).  Apparently
this does not seem to be a problem as it once was.  Today, windows
seem to be manufactured better and thus condensation does not appear
to be that big of a factor.  Although I was told if you do live in
the colder parts of the country, you may want to avoid aluminum.  As
one correspondent said, it's important to go with a good quality window
from a good manufacturer.

The one concern I received about vinyl was that it could expand/contract
and thus wreak havoc with your window openings.  I don't know if this
does happen but it was given as a possible scenario.  Of course, vinyl
is more insulating than aluminum is so you don't have to worry about
condensation.  One other concern was how vinyl stood up to constant 
exposure to the sun.  That was a question that was asked of me but 
someone who has experience with vinyl windows would have to answer that.

One mention was made of windows that were made of wood but had a vinyl
exterior.  This is apparently a low maintenance window.  I haven't
received all that much info on them.


Well, what have we learned?  I'm not sure but I guess the choice of
windows is a personal preference.  I guess at this point, the big
factor becomes price.

Thanks again to all who responded.  My problem now is deciding to
install conventional or retrofit windows.
 
-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------
- jhp@sactoh0.SAC.CA.US    What else can I say?             -
-------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: tomh@wes.on.ca (Tom Haapanen)
Subject: Hardwood on a chipboard subfloor?
Organization: Waterloo Engineering Software
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 1992 15:44:28 GMT

We would like to replace our worn carpeting with hardwood (probably oak)
flooring.  Laying strip flooring and finishing it (or buying pre-finished
flooring) seems straight-forward enough, even if it will take a substantial
amount of work.

Alas, our house uses the modern (!) construction technique of "whatever's
the cheapest", and thus we have a chipboard (maybe Aspenite?) subfloor
instead of the traditional plywood.  I'm concerned about being able to
nail the flooring to the chipboard -- will nails hold?  And if not, what
options do I have?

All suggestions will be highly appreciated!

[ \tom haapanen    "i don't even know what street canada is on" -- al capone ]
[ tomh@wes.on.ca                   "trust the programmer" -- ansi c standard ]
[ waterloo engineering software      "to thine own self be true" -- polonius ]
From: trb@cbnews.cb.att.com (tom.balent)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Renovators Supply
Date: 19 Aug 92 11:01:02 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: AT&T

In article <MACRAKIS.92Aug17164455@next4.osf.org> macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis) writes:
>
>I find Renovator's quality fairly cheesy in general.  In fact, I would
>guess that they sell `seconds' from their casting shop.  The
>first-quality probably gets polished and buffed for the luxury trade,
>under other names.
>
>On the other hand, good quality hardware can be VERY expensive.  I was
>looking for good sash locks (for double-hung windows) a few weeks ago.
>The cheapest ones go for about $1.50, and seem to be made out of
>stamped sheet metal.  Somewhat better ones go for about $2.50, and are
>crummy castings.  The good ones go for around $8-10.  And that's just
>the simple clamshell locks, not the elaborate Victorian designs.
>

May I suggest that if you can find a place that salvages old houses you
look there for your hardware. I have seen these places in a number of
cities (especially cities where old sections of town are being
torn down). The ones I have been in (in Washington DC, Cincinnati and
here in my hometown Columbus, O) have drawers and drawers of
window locks, pulls, doorknobs, window weights, old mantels, old 
windows, etc., etc. And this is the old stuff, not new reproductions.

You can also look into the classified section of The Old House Journal.
I have seen ads there for similar stuff.

tom
Xref: sparky misc.consumers.house:10944 ba.general:3465
From: lmtra@uts.amdahl.com (Leon Traister)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,ba.general
Subject: Looking for an S.F. Building Contractor
Keywords: contractor
Date: 18 Aug 92 16:02:31 GMT
Followup-To: poster
Distribution: ba
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

We are planning a major renovation of our 80-year old San Francisco house and
are looking for recommendations for a general contractor.  The job includes
a 2-story addition as well as extensive interior remodelling.  We would
prefer someone doing business in San Francisco or very close by.

Thanks,
Leon Traister (lmtra@amdahl.uts.amdahl.com)
========================================================================

<Usual Disclaimer>        "The best is the enemy of the good" - Voltaire

Leon Traister (lmtra@amdahl.uts.amdahl.com)

c/o Amdahl Corporation            (408)737-5449
1250 E. Arques Ave.  M/S 338
P.O. Box 3470
Sunnyvale, CA  94088-3470
From: mlei@mona.jpl.nasa.gov (Mary Lei)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: non-toxic termite treatment
Date: 13 Aug 92 15:33:53 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: jpl

Can anyone tell me about his/her experience with treating termites with microwave rather than fumigation?.  I am looking for a non-toxic way to deal with termites. Please email me mlei@gina.jpl.nasa.gov. Thanks.
From: macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: How to Hang a Carpet Face Down on the ceiling?
Date: 18 Aug 92 16:53:08 GMT
	<5502@ssc-bee.ssc-vax.boeing.com>
Distribution: na
Organization: OSF Research Institute

In article <1992Aug14.172016.25530@porthos.cc.bellcore.com>, din@dasher.uucp (Dinesh Nettar) writes:

   ...a 9'X6' silk hand-knotted carpet [which] we want to hang ...face
   down from the living room ceiling....

A classic way to hang a carpet on a wall is with tackless strip
(normally used for installing wall-to-wall carpet).  The problem with
tackless strip is that it is very thin, and needs to be nailed down in
many places.  So in your case, what I would suggest is nailing the
tackless strip to a piece of 1x3, then screwing in the 1x3 with
ceiling anchors in 2-3 places.  Then slide the rug on top of the
tackless strip nail (wear gloves for this).

	-s
From: lmtra@uts.amdahl.com (Leon Traister)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Home owners Insurance -- Farmers versus Allstate
Keywords: Umbrella Insurance State Farm
Date: 17 Aug 92 23:29:10 GMT
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

In article <1992Aug17.171309.26407@gvl.unisys.com> garyp@gvls2.gvl.unisys.com (Gary Palangian) writes:
>
>Jeff Wrote:

[...]
>On a different note, we are considering moving our insurance
>to State Farm (We keep all insurance with one company).
>Any net stories on State Farm? 

Yes, this one.  We have been insured with State Farm for about 15
years.  We carry replacement value insurance for the structure and the
contents. About 2 years ago we received a notice on a reduced price
option (with separate earthquake insurance) with no seeming reduction
in benefits.

A few weeks ago, I found out about a friend whose home and contents
were destroyed in the Oakland fire of last year.  He was insured with
State Farm and found to his horror that they would not pay the full
replacement cost and it turns out that quite a few people were in the
same boat.

When I called my State Farm agent, the story I got was that
"replacement insurance does NOT include code upgrades", i.e. if your
house is appraised by them at say $200K, that is what it would cost do
an exact replacement, and since an older house (say older than 15
years) would not pass a code evaluation, you are expected to make up
the difference for the upgrade.  The agent did, however, offer [tadah!]
a CODE UPGRADE INSURANCE RIDER for a mere additional 10% of the
premium.  This rider will pay for code upgrade not exceeding 50% of
the insured replacement appraisal.

Now, isn't this kind of thing infuriating?  If it had not been for my
friend's loss, I would not have known that as of 2 years ago I did not
have the coverage I though I did.  State Farm has made many enemies
around here over this when they could have been more up front about it.
A local legislator is introducing an insurance features comparison
bill which would presumably require insurers to clearly lay these
things out, but one wonders just how far it will get.
========================================================================

<Usual Disclaimer>        "The best is the enemy of the good" - Voltaire

Leon Traister (lmtra@amdahl.uts.amdahl.com)

c/o Amdahl Corporation            (408)737-5449
1250 E. Arques Ave.  M/S 338
P.O. Box 3470
Sunnyvale, CA  94088-3470
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: heflin@rtsg.mot.com (Suzanne Stratton Heflin)
Subject: Re: 6" walls and 6" insulation
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 16:59:20 GMT

rmartin@crchh109.bnr.ca (Richard Martin) writes:


>We are planning to have a house built next spring.  The house will be a 
>2-story colonial type.  Is it worth the extra money to have 6" exterior
>walls with 6" insulation istead of the normal 4"?  Will the extra thickness
>provide much energy savings over the 4"?  If not, will the structure be stronger
>with the 6" than the 4", and is it worth it?

>Thanks

I don't know much about the energy savings, but I don't think it makes the
structure any stronger.  When 2 x 4s are used, they're typically spaced
16" on center; with 2 x 6s, it's 24" o.c.  Thus, I don't think it's any
stronger, and the lumber itself should cost close to the same.  I think
some contractors are using that ploy to somewhat rip people off; just my
opinion.  How much more is he charging?  It should probably only be for the
extra insulation, and how much extra insulation are you receiving - R19
vs. R11 or what?  Where do the extra 2 inches come in?  Do they make the
foundation bigger to accomodate it, or do you lose the 2 inches from each
of your exterior rooms?  Just a few things to consider....
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: staffan@ca.serum.kodak.com (Kenneth Staffan (x37507))
Subject: Re: Garage Door Opener Regulations
Organization: Clinical Products Division, Eastman Kodak Company
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 14:03:37 GMT

In article <1992Aug12.193249.24930@col.hp.com> cab@col.hp.com (Chris Best) writes:
>>I just purchased a Genie Garage Door opener and it has a mechanism built
>>in that causes the door to automatically open if something is in it's
>>path.  I don't see any need for an optical device to do the same thing.
>
>I do.  As the door nears the fully-closed position, the force is incredible,
>due to the geometry of the bracket and drive chain.  Sure, it'll bounce off
>your car hood with no damage, since that's mid-travel, but something smaller
>(like a kid's skull) could easily be crushed.  It would take LOTS of
>resistance at this point to make the motor/clutches/whatever "see" that few
>pounds of resistance.

Mine is exactly the opposite.  My door still has springs on it.  The 
opener is adjusted to reverse on a certain amount of pressure.  As the door
nears the bottom, the springs are getting tighter.  I originally had to
adjust it because the resistance from the springs was enough to reverse
the opener about half-way down.

Incidentally - it sounds like newer openers have a primary and a secondary
safety mechanism for reversing/stopping the door???  We had our door 
serviced a while back, and they also adjusted/lubed the opener.  They
left a bright orange sticker on it saying that the primary safety mechanism
had been checked and was in working order, but the secondary system was
non-existant (due to the age of the opener???)

Ken
From: dougb@novell.com (Doug Barlow)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Masking tape residue
Date: 17 Aug 92 21:12:39 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Novell Inc., Provo, UT

In article <1992Aug17.161749.18225@meaddata.com> dedek@meaddata.com (Mike Dedek) writes:
>In article <1992Aug16.002517.3220@jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca>, akarpowicz@mta.ca (Adam Karpowicz) writes:
>|> In article <1992Aug14.183239.24056@informix.com>, davek@informix.com (David Kosenko) writes:
>|> >Ok, so paint me foolish.  When redoing my living room, I covered the
>|> >floor with pastic tarp and used masking tape to tape it to the hardwood
>|> >floor.  The redo took longer than originally anticipated (so what else
>|> >is new ;-).  When I finally finished and pulled up the plastic, the masking
>|> >tape stuck to the floor, and left a lot of sticky residue.
>|> >
>|> >My question is: is there anything short of tons of elbow grease and soapy
>|> >water that can get this gunk off without destroying the floor's finish?

I found some stuff at the local K-Mart that works wonders.  It's called
Stick-off or something close to that.  I had a For-Sale sign taped in
my car window on tinted glass.  I just sprayed a little of that on there
and ... viola!  no more residue.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Doug Barlow                   Email: DOUGB@NOVELL.COM
Novell, Inc.  Provo, UT
            The opinions expressed above are solely my own and
	    do not in any way represent the opinions of Novell, Inc.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: mary@uicsl.csl.uiuc.edu (Mary E. Allison)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: flies time
Date: 19 Aug 92 18:39:04 GMT
Article-I.D.: roundup.l955a8INNa4j
Distribution: na
Organization: Center for Reliable and High-Performance Computing, University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign
NNTP-Posting-Host: uicsl.csl.uiuc.edu

HELP!!

     I've been invaded by flies -- well, not really invaded but it
felt like that the other day.  I had about 10 of them.  Luckily they
were all between the window and the drape (don't ask me why) and I hit
them with a good does of flea & tick spray that I had (it didn't say
it was particularly for flies, but they all dropped off real quick
after a good dose :^} ).

     Anyway, I still have a few and whenever I see one I try to get
him with a dose of the spray - I never was quick enough with a fly 
swatter.

     But, I was at the store the other day looking for a yellow pest
strip that you hang around your house, and I couldn't find one - I was
at a couple of stores and I'm wondering if they are still on the
market.  If they are not on the market, does anyone know how I could 
make a do-it yourself version?

THANKS


--
THUD -- If you ever become a superhero, remember - open the door
BEFORE you fly away.
  -- SUPER GROVER

    Mary Allison (mary@uicsl.csl.uiuc.edu) Urbana, Illinois
Catx2 Owned, Square Dancer, Leaper, Ballroom Dancer in training
From: becker@edwards-vax.af.mil
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Killing burglars.
Date: 13 Aug 92 13:20:29 -0800
Organization: IFAST - EDWARDS Air Force Base

All this about killing burglers and the justice system......I have some
comments.

First of all to those that said things like what if its a gas man or
police officer etc.......These people aren't going to come into your
home quietly, the Police will make lots of noise.....as another poster
said, the gas/elec any utility company will not enter your home!  For
the poster that said something to the effect of you coming home and
the burgler doesn't see you but you see him through the window and you
go off to a neighbors and borrow a gun and come back and blow the
burgler away...GET A FLIPPEN LIFE!  No one is going to do that.  If
you are outside your home you go call the cops and let them handle
it!  

Number two is  it is true our system of justice sucks.  If you are
guility of a crime against society you should loose all rights.  Why
should you keep them when you violated someone elses.  A person that
commits a crime, like burglery, should not be able to sue or do 
anything but serve his time in jail.  

To relate how screwed up our system is I know of a woman who was fired
from her job as a cashier because she was caught steeling money.  She
admitted to it, signed a statement then turned around and sued the
company for STRESS as to the way they went about firing her!  Are you
ready for this.......she won!  Now, in my opinion she never should
have had the opportunity to sue  and sue for what????? STRESS?????!
Its ass backwards!

Lastly, if someone broke into my home I would shoot to kill.  This is
my home you are speaking of and no one has a right to enter it unless
I invite them.  I'm not assuming anything.  If they choose to breakin
obiviously they KNOW they are not welcome and are going to do something
illegal.  The point is they are where they don't belong and I'm not
going to stand around asking questions.  I will shoot to kill.  I have
my family to protect as well as myself.  The more society cowers down
the more these guys will get away with, the braver they'll become and
crime will esscalate.
From: d3a132@pnl.gov (Carl P Baker)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Mice
Date: 13 Aug 92 17:57:23 GMT
Article-I.D.: oracle.1992Aug13.175723.14794
Reply-To: d3a132@pnl.gov
Organization: Battelle Pacific Northwest Laboratories

In article 12479@tc.cornell.edu, shore@dinah.tc.cornell.edu (Melinda Shore) writes:
>In article <1992Aug12.222445.11219@wri.com>, markm@wri.com writes:
>> My DOG loves to catch mice.  
>
>Terriers are particularly good mousers.  The problem with
>using dogs, though, is that they make more of a mess with
>the mouse than do cats, at least in my experience.  When
>the mice leave).  On the occasions when my dog has gotten 
>a mouse she's tended to leave blood and parts spattered 
>around.  It's pretty unpleasant.

The mice that our terrier has gotten (she's gotten several),
have been intact, and look like they've drowned/been smooshed.
No blood, no parts, no problem.

Must depend on the dog.

Carl P Baker
cp_baker@pnl.gov
509-375-2724

Disclaimer: I am not the official spokesperson for anyone.  For which
organizations that use spokespersons are profoundly grateful.