HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: andrem@pyrman2.mis.pyramid.com (Andre Molyneux)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: More '86 GTI questions
Date: 23 Jul 92 15:01:13 GMT
Originator: daemon@sword.eng.pyramid.com

First off, thanks to everyone who responed to my request for information on
the trip computer in my GTI.  I now understand how to get all of the functions
to work (with the exception of setting the clock - pushing the little recessed
buttons doesn't do anything.  Hopefully it's something as simple as dirty
contacts.)

Since you've all been so helpful with my previous questions, now of course I
have some more.  ;-)

Currently the oxygen sensor light on the dash comes on when the car is first
started (along with the alternator light).  Once the engine has picked up
enough RPMs to shut off the alternator light, the oxygen sensor light goes
out also.  Is this normal behavior?  Does the light coming on at start-up mean
it's time to replace the sensor, or is it supposed to light up and stay on?

The car also has a sunroof, but the headliner on the roof itself is torn.
Is there any way for mere mortals with a normal toolbox to get the sunroof
panel out so that some repairs can be done?  Is it covered in the Bentley
manual (which I will hopefully be ordering soon)?  Or is this something
best left to a shop or (horrors) a dealer?

Finally, the front grill on our car was replaced at some point in it's past
with a grill lacking the little "GTI" letters.  Can anyone tell me if the
letters are molded into their grill, or are a separate piece that can be
attached to the normal grill?

Speaking of grills, when I went to Italy a couple of years ago all of the GTIs
that I saw had a different grill with round headlights and what appeared to
be a pair of round driving lights.  I've seen a few of these in the States
also, but the vast majority have had the rectangular "flush" headlamps (mine
included).  Were GTIs sold with the round headlights in the U.S., or have
some people substituted the European grill and headlights on their cars?

Thanks in advance for any way in which you can enlighten me.

+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Andre Molyneux   KA7WVV     "Insert your favorite disclaimer here"       |
+-----------------------------------------+--------------------------------+
|      -=-------- PYRAMID TECHNOLOGY CORP |Internet:                       |
|    ---===------ 3860 N. First Street    |  andrem@pyramid.com            |
|  -----=====---- San Jose, CA 95134      |Packet:                         |
|-------=======-- (408) 428-8229          |  ka7wvv@n0ary.#nocal.ca.usa.na |
+-----------------------------------------+--------------------------------+
From: borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 18:25:37 GMT
Subject: Re: Difficulty getting into reverse
Organization: Hewlett Packard Company, Spokane, Wa.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw

In rec.autos.vw, ges@stiatl.salestech.com (Gerald Sullivan) writes:

>Every VW I have owned (1980 Rabbit, 87 Golf, 88 Cabrio 90 Corrado)
>has had this problem. Shifting to other gears or allowing the car to roll
>slightly fixes it for me.

Or, just put the transmission in neutral, let out the clutch, then push
in the clutch and engage reverse (possibly with a slight crunch if you
are fast about it).


Donald Borowski    WA6OMI    Hewlett-Packard, Spokane Division
"Angels are able to fly because they take themselves so lightly."
                                       -G.K. Chesterton
From: mozer@atmo1.atmo.arizona.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: EGR light on 78 Bus
Date: 28 Jul 92 01:41:27 GMT
Organization: University of Arizona, Atmospheric Sciences

The EGR light in my '78 Bus has just started to light up.  Since
I've replaced the EGR valve within the last year or so, I assume
that it is because of some sort of service odometer which thinks
that it is time for me to visit my dealer.  If this is a correct
assumption, where is this gadget located and how do I reset it?
From: ges@stiatl.salestech.com (Gerald Sullivan)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Corrado wheels
Date: 28 Jul 92 11:34:07 GMT
Organization: Sales Technologies, Inc.

msirota@ee.rochester.edu (Mark Sirota) writes:
>IMHO, 44/39 is *WAY* too high for a Corrado.  The only thing you gain from
>such high pressure is fuel mileage...  I would think that your handling,
>tire wear, and ride would be truly awful.  Something in the range of 32/28
>to perhaps 35/30 would be more appropriate.

44/39 or 42/38 are the numbers inside the door jamb. They seem high to me 
also. I keep them high to save my wheels. The Corrado ride is already harsh,
it doesn't seem to make much difference. To me, handling seems better at
higher pressures. 32/28 is way too low. At those 
pressures, the tires look flat. The tires are 205/50/15.
-- 
___________________________________________________________________
Jerry Sullivan, Sales Technologies, Inc.  Atlanta,GA 
ges@salestech.com,...uupsi!stiatl!ges I don't speak for my employer.
Just say no to Republicrats, vote Libertarian.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Correct Rabbit Oil Pressure???
From: Roger A. Huggins <UD180274@NDSUVM1.BITNET>
Date: Thursday, 23 Jul 1992 10:48:59 CDT
Organization: North Dakota Higher Education Computer Network

I just installed and oil pressure gauge on my '79 Rabbit.  I'm
getting readings that VERY QUICKLY shoot up >100psi.  At idle it
is at about 50psi, and I'd say it surpasses 100 by 1500-2000 rpm.
Does anyone know if this is normal or not???  I'm worried that
it may be too high, and the pressure relief valve isn't working
properly.   Thanks for your help!


                                 Roger
From: bjgaed@bb1t.monsanto.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Type 1 Engine Problems: exhaust studs, backfiring, missing
Date: 21 Jul 92 07:02:51 CST
Organization: Monsanto Company, St. Louis, MO

In article <1992Jul20.180737.22883@dartvax.dartmouth.edu>, 
Ralph.C.Lindenfeld@dartmouth.edu (Ralph C. Lindenfeld) writes:

> -This clued me into that the (#1?) ((Right Front)) cylinder was not
> firing. I pulled the plug and it fires so it's not an ignition problem,
> I think. 

>        2) Could the backfiring be due to the exhaust leak I assume I
> had? (the backfiring was from the left bank of cylinders- not the
> right, where the cylinder is not firing!)

You already answere your question.  If the backfiring is from the 3-4 
side (left), then the exhaust leak on 1 wouldn't account for it.

>        3) Could the exhaust leak cause the cylinder not to fire? If
> not, would 85 psi be the problem?

Your low compression is probably the source of both no firing on #1 
and backfiring on #3-4 as there is probably not enough compression 
there to get consistent firing.

Backfiring is caused by unburned gas getting into the hot exhaust 
manifold.  The exhaust leak should have nothing to do with compression 
or misfiring as the exhaust valve *should* be closed during firing.

Simple things first:

Have you adjusted the valves?  Are you *sure* #1 is at TDC (notch on 
distributor body, 7-1/2 degree mark about 1 cm to right of case seam) 
when you adjust it?  

How's the timing?  Is it possible you don't have a stock distributor?
Do you have the right timing specs on that engine?

Do the compression readings come up if you squirt oil into the spark 
plug hole, thus indicating badly worn rings?  If not, then either the 
rings are so shot that even the oil won't help, or it's a valve 
problem.

At 85 psi compression I don't think you'll even get 10K out of the 
engine before it overheats and damages something.

Good Luck!

--Bruce Gaede

Steamin' on the river in St. Louis.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: eliot@stalfos.engr.washington.edu (eliot)
Subject: Re: Corrado wheels
Organization: clearer than blir
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 21:15:26 GMT

In article <1992Jul28.201415.12950@uwm.edu> greis@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Gayla Ann Greis) writes:
>Actually, VW just released a service bul that says that 90 G60s should
>be set at 41/36. Your 42/38 is pretty good then...

is that for "full" load or "normal" load?


eliot

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: Daryl W. Dunbar <dunbar@convex.COM>
Subject: Re: Good price for '92 VR6, '90 60 Corrado
Originator: dunbar@mikey.convex.com
Reply-To: dunbar@convex.COM (Daryl W. Dunbar)
Organization: CONVEX Computer Corporation,  Tennessee Office, USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 19:40:36 GMT
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by a user at CONVEX Computer
              Corp. The opinions expressed are those of the user and
              not necessarily those of CONVEX.

In article <Jul20.175537.18731@engr.washington.edu> eliot@lanmola.engr.washington.edu (eliot) writes:
>In article <1992Jul20.141323.54@stiatl.salestech.com> ges@stiatl.salestech.com (Gerald Sullivan) writes:
>
>>1. How much is a 1990 G60 with sunroof, antilock worth?
>
>1990 G60's with ABS is going to be hard to find.  I recently bought a
>'90 G60 for $13.5K as a dry weather sports car.  Pretty pleased with
>the deal.  Here's what it had:
>
>- 8400 miles.  (Heck, the gearbox wasn't even fully broken it yet)
>- 1 yr of bumper to bumper and 4 yrs of powertrain warranty left
>- sunroof
>- no ABS
>
I have seen many G60's (90's) for anywhere from 10K to 13.5K.  Wholesale is
between 9 and 10K.  EVERY one I have seen (encluding my own) has ABS, one of
the cheaper ones even had leather!

>eliot
>

Daryl

-- 
...............................................................................
	Daryl W. Dunbar			Software Support Engineer
	dunbar@convex.com		CONVEX Computer Corporation             
...............................................................................
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: baw2@cunixb.cc.columbia.edu (Bruce A Weisberg)
Subject: Underbody rust
Reply-To: baw2@cunixb.cc.columbia.edu (Bruce A Weisberg)
Organization: Columbia University
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 14:06:31 GMT





	Is there any treatment for old VWs (beetle, bus) that can be applied
to the under body to prevent/retard rust?



Bruce

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: eliot@stalfos.engr.washington.edu (eliot)
Subject: shifting into reverse (Re: Good price for '92 VR6, '90 60 Corrado
Organization: clearer than blir
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 21:52:56 GMT

In article <PR7PoB5w164w@cellar.org> blu@cellar.org (Dan Reed) writes:
>> The trick is: shift into 1st, then pull out and it will go into
>> reverse right away, no hassle.  Our G60 is like that too and the trick
>> works everytime.  

>This works for most small front wheel drive cars, of all makes.  See, car 
>manufactures dont ever bother to put a syncro on reverse...

i don't think that this is caused by an absence of syncros.  i've
experienced this in cars with syncros too.  in fact i've used this
trick to work on a first generation benz 280s.. early '70s car.
don't remember if this car had a syncro in reverse or not.

eliot
From: keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov (Larry Keys)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Cracked headlight help
Date: 28 Jul 92 16:38:42 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: National Institute of Standards & Technology

In article <1992Jul28.083737.13585@walter.cray.com> dilmore@cray.com (Robert J. Dilmore) writes:
>
>   
>    A neat thing I noticed while inspecting for possible removal, the
>air intake for the engine goes right into the VW logo in front. Visions
>of removing the logo to get better airflow danced through my head. I have 
>already removed the restrictor before the airbox. Any other cheap improve-
         ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>ments for a KE-Motronic(?) 2.0 16v I could do?
>
>Robert


What's this about a "restrictor before the airbox".  I never knew about any
restrictor.  How did you find out about this restrictor?  And isn't your
engine the same as mine (1990 Jetta GLI 2.0 16v), i thought that it was
a "CIS-E Motronic".  Maybe i'm wrong.  Anyway, tell me more about that
restrictor.  If there's more power to be had I WANT IT TOO! Ok!  My brother
would want it too seeing he has a 1990 Passat, with automatic (his wife
made him get it) (snicker ;-].

                                                   .              
                                                 /                
Larry                            __/    ______ /                  
keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov       /                \                 
                         _ _ _      __      _____  \------- ===   
            ---------- /  __ /    /  /    /__  __/            \   
         /            /  / ____  /  /       / /                |  
        |            / /___/  / /  /__   __/ /__              /   
        /_____       \______/  /_____ / /______/        --- ////   
             \_____           2 liter 16v       \_______/         
                                                                              
        Fahrvergnugen forever!
From: danl@iplmail.orl.mmc.com (Dan Long)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: how to control radio via ignition
Date: 22 Jul 92 17:04:22 GMT
Organization: Martin Marietta

Hi All,

I have a Audi 4000 with a radio that does not turn off
w/ the ignition. 

I took the radio out and there are only 5 connections:

ground, power 12v, light, power antenna, and mute.

The radio has 5-button memory function so i could not 
move the 12V power to ignition.

So I was wondering if anyone has done it before?

Do i have to take the radio apart and do internal 
surgery?  I really hate having to turn the radio on and 
off each time I use the car.

Thank a lot in advance!

bye danl@orl.mmc.com
From: blu@cellar.org (Dan Reed)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Good price for '92 VR6, '90 60 Corrado
Date: 30 Jul 92 12:48:36 GMT
Organization: The Cellar BBS and public access system

eliot@lanmola.engr.washington.edu (eliot) writes:

> In article <1992Jul21.213749.4181@odin.corp.sgi.com> lkvarda@sgi.com (Lisa Kv
> >I have the problem in my G60.  I start the car with the clutch depressed,
> >and it won't always go into reverse.  Sometimes if I try a few times
> >with the clutch still depressed, it'll go in, other times I don't.
> >I do the same as above.... release the clutch, depress the clutch,
> >wait for a few seconds, and then it goes in right away.
> 
> The trick is: shift into 1st, then pull out and it will go into
> reverse right away, no hassle.  Our G60 is like that too and the trick
> works everytime.  

This works for most small front wheel drive cars, of all makes.  See, car 
manufactures dont ever bother to put a syncro on reverse...

----- 
 Dan Reed (Blu-Max) blu@cellar.org - AutoCad Geek - VW Lover - InlineSkater 
68' Cougar, 89 VW Golf, 72 Honda CB 360Twin.. what next?
Xref: sparky rec.autos.vw:4404 rec.autos:18680 rec.autos.tech:10311
From: kats@innerdoor.austin.ibm.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw,rec.autos,rec.autos.tech
Subject: Advice on after market cruise control
Date: 28 Jul 92 20:58:29 GMT
Reply-To: kats@innerdoor.austin.ibm.com
Distribution: usa
Organization: IBM AWD, Austin, TX


     
 --------------------------


  I want to install an after market cruise control
  on my car ( '90 Jetta GL ). 

   
  I called around and a few suggested Sears after market 
  cruise control. Is it ok to go with sears?
  
  Or, are there some ohter good after market cruise controls?
  What would be the price range? (Parts and labor ). How to 
  make sure that the the mechanic has installed it properly? 
  Will there be problems after a few months?
  
  Advice of net.wisdom  is greatly appreciated.


  Thanks
 
  kats.


---------------------------------------------------------

 e-mail :
    
   kats@innerdoor.austin.ibm.com

-----------------------------------------------------------
  
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: GR743@uacsc2.albany.edu (Greg Rickes)
Subject: Re: Looking For Aries Phone # or advertisement
Organization: University at Albany, Albany NY 12222
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 92 15:47:49 EDT

In article <92lmts-.jspinnow@netcom.com>
jspinnow@netcom.com (John S. Pinnow) writes:
 
>
>
>I am looking for the phone # for Aries. They sell do sell pistons and
I think what you're looking for is ARIAS. Check a current
copy of Hot Rod and I'll bet they're in there :-).
From: kirstein@bohemia.metronet.org (Dale Kirstein)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: More on GL-4 vs. GL-5 Transmission Fluids
Date: 24 Jul 92 05:09:04 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Bohemia BBS System

I just replaced my transmission fluid in my Corrado G60 with Redline MTL GL4
and can give you the following info:

The owners manual supplied with the car specifies GL4 fluid. According to Redline
, GL4 is designed for use in transmissions and transaxles, and has the right
slipperyness (note the technical phrase!) to work well with syncros. GL5 is not 
designed to work with syncros, but can handle the extra pressure in a differential
system. 

This is what I was told by both VW and the REdline dealer!

As far as the improvement in shifting, there is some improved shifting, but
nothing earth shattering. 

Dale Kirstein
.sig pending
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mike@drseus.jsc.nasa.gov (mike)
Subject: 67 Bus Parts into 65 Bug?
Organization: Lockheed Engineering & Sciences Company
Distribution: usa
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 1992 16:22:10 GMT

I've asked this before, but I didn't get a satisfactory answer
from the net (I do appreciate the comments I did receive, however).
I have a rusty 67 Bus, good mechanicals but body beyond hope.  I'd
like to try to use the front and rear axle components on my 65 Bug,
because of the increased strength and clearance.  Has anyone done
anything like this before?  I realize welding is required, because
of the great differences in mounting these axles.  

It just seems such a waste to throw away all that beefy suspension
componentry just because the body is falling apart (really, I can't 
open the rear hatch because the hinge attachments are about to pull 
loose, and I worry about the rear floor giving way and the bus
breaking in half).

About the only thing worth anything on this monster is the front cap,
which has never been hit.  I occasionally enjoy the smiles/smirks
I get from other people in traffic when they see me driving the Bus
while wearing my suit and tie :-).

The ideal answer would be some form of kit, but I've never seen it 
discussed in Hot VWs, so I guess I'm on my own.  Another possible
solution would be dune buggy plans that used those components.
I've never seen one, but since the steering box looks to be easily 
relocatable (fore/aft, anyway) and the transfer cases on the rear add
6 inches of clearance it seems like a natural fit.

My thanks to all who consider my problem.  Post or e-mail is fine.
-- 
******************************** mike@drseus.jsc.nasa.gov *****
* Michael L. Ross   *   Lockheed Engineering & Sciences Co.   *
* Standard Disclaimer regarding entities above................*
*(713)333-7094 voice,(713)333-7201 fax*************************
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: sracer@cecelia.media.mit.edu (Andy Hong (Go Speed Racer!))
Subject: Re: A dealer to avoid???
Organization: MIT Media Laboratory Music Group
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 04:49:24 GMT

Regarding the VW dealer service horror stories...

Well, none of those dealers sound as blatantly bogus as Libon Motors, the
VW dealer here in the Boston area that:

    o  "Replaced" my heater core--charging VWofA for the service, since at
       the time, it was being covered as a goodwill gesture from VWofA.
       Well apparently, they did no such thing--they must've just poured
       some sort of temporary sealant into the sucker without actually
       replacing it!  When I have time, I'm taking it elsewhere to get it
       replaced, since it's now a full-blown recall.

    o  Estimated the cost of the exhaust system replacement for my friend's
       Scirocco at roughly $1,200.  He said "no way" and took it to Metric
       Systems in Cambridge to see what they could do for him.  They put
       it up on the lift, looked at it, estimated the replacement cost as
       $900, but told him that it was covered under warranty--so it should
       be free at a VW dealer.  (Metric didn't charge a cent for the
       estimate.)  So he took it back to Libon with this crucial fact--and
       they said "oh, we didn't know."  Bullshit.

--andy
From: kirstein@bohemia.metronet.org (Dale Kirstein)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: tire recommendation wanted
Date: 31 Jul 92 04:19:29 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: Bohemia BBS System

I have had great luck with Yokohama tires on my Corrado G60. On the street,
I use A403. For Solo 2 competition, I use A008RS. The A403s are acceptable 
on rain, and their dry cornering is great for a street tire. The A008RS is
an amazing performance tire, but you had better be serious about performace!
I doubt you would get more that 10,000 miles on a set. And they hydroplane on
humidity! They are also very reasonably priced. For 195-50-15 , The 403s were
about 110 each, and the A008s were about 105 each. 

Happy Motoring!


Dale Kirstein
.sig pending
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: jackr@thorodin.dazixco.ingr.com (Jack Reed)
Subject: Re: Bumper sticker
Reply-To: jackr@thorodin.dazixco.ingr.com
Organization: Dazix
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 19:53:19 GMT

In article <0cqf02oC1cnq01@JUTS.ccc.amdahl.com>, dld80@ccc.amdahl.com (Don Dusza) writes:
> I saw one on a '74-'75 Super Beetle here in Sunnyvale.  If anyone can find a
> source and a price, I want one (wife won't let me put it on the Jetta though).

Put me down for one also.

Jack
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: burkstp@infonode.ingr.com (Terry Burks)
Subject: Bug motor parts (Buy/or Trade)
Organization: Intergraph Corporation, Huntsville, AL.
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 13:53:18 GMT

Well, after tearing down two bug motors (a 40 horse, and a 1500)
I still do not have a motor to put back in my bug. %(

 The 40 horse block is in good shape, but the parts to rebuild it
are alittle bit too expensive. And the 1500cc block is history.

  I have a 1968 bug and I would like to put the 1500cc in it
since that is what came in it originally.  What I need to know
is where to get a good block for it and what is the most that
a block can be line bored before it can no longer be used.
Or does anyone out there need a 40 horse block with most of the
parts to use in a restore project. Make me an offer I just might
take you up on it.... or I might be willing to make a trade for
a 1500cc case.  

    For more info email or post and I will  get back to you.

Thanks, 
        Terry
-- 
TERRY P. BURKS               |"My thoughts are not much, but they are about
burkstp@infonode.ingr.com    | the only things the banks don't having me 
!uunet!ingr!b25!rd3537!TERRY | making monthly payments on. !^)    TPB"
Hunstville, Al               |
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca (Andy)
Subject: Got rid of the resonator
Organization: Math, Stats & CS, Dalhousie University, Halifax, NS, Canada
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 00:17:07 GMT

Well, I finally did one day, jacked the car up, took a hecksaw and cut
the resonator right off. Went to Canadian Tire, bought a piece of straight
pipe for $6 and 2 clamps and joined the pipes back up. Week later went to
a muffler shop to weld the joints up to eliminate all leaks for $10.

Total cost = $20
Total time = 2 hours
Difference = none performance wise, slightly louder

I have a leistritz muffler on it now.
What are those resonators for anyway, axtra weight? I really don't notice
anything better, but I do like the sound, its sounds strong but still 
quiet enough that it does not get on your nerves.

ANdy
-- 
---....-------------****----*******-) GTI FUN-atic                      o  
--. \/ .-----GTI---******--*********)         Don't forget to bike:     ,-\
--.\/\/.-----------******--*********)  (and sail and windsurf and ski)  0\-0
---....-------------****----*******-) gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca,goaway@ac.dal.ca
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw