HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: tgl@slee01.srl.ford.com (Tom Leone)
Subject: Re: 86 Camry Spark Knock
Organization: Ford Motor Company Scientific Research Labs, Dearborn, MI
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 15:58:27 GMT

x1sdup@emav118.rtp.dg.com (Stephen Dupre) writes:
: I've been having a problem with spark knock (or so it sounds) on
: my 2.0 Litre EFI Camry.  It happens in cold or hot weather.  After
                              ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
: writing to the NHTSA group, I found that Toyota had a technical
: bulletin stating the pistons had to be replaced in response to
: the problem.  I guess a lot of them were fixed at the factory.  
  
: 1.  Higher octane gasoline. (no effect)
      ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

It doesn't sound like spark knock based on these two clues.

One noise that is often confused with spark knock is "piston slap".
It occurs when there is too much of a gap between the pistons and
the cylinders.  It is usually worse when the engine is cold (because
the aluminum pistons expand/contract more with temperature than the
iron engine block).  This also sounds compatible with the technical
bulletin.

In many cases piston slap is harmless (except to the manufacturer's
reputation and customer satisfaction).  Maybe you should just live
with it, or get some expert ears to listen to it.

Tom Leone <tgl@slee01.srl.ford.com>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty)
Subject: Re: What does GT mean in all these sports models ?
Organization: New York State Institute for Sebastian Cabot Studies
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 23:53:41 GMT

In article <64532@hydra.gatech.EDU> gt0963d@prism.gatech.EDU (Deeptendu Majumder) writes:
>The subject line says it all :-)

the meaning of GT is obscured in history; but the foundation of the
term is that it stands for Gran Turisimo, aka Grand Touring.  the idea
is that such a car is larger and more comfortable than a simple, basic
sports car, but still quite fast.

of course, today, this history is entirely irrelevant to the way which
``GT'' is used, primarily in designating cars that manufacturers wish
to be perceived as `sporty'.  also, IMSA uses GT to designate a range
of race cars which are vaguely related to street cars.

richard
-- 
richard welty                            518-393-7228
welty@cabot.balltown.cma.com
  ``if you can read this, mario, you're too close''
    -- bumper sticker seen on a CART safety truck
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: (Eric Youngblood)
Subject: Increasing power?
Reply-To: Peon w/o Email priv (Eric Youngblood)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Richardson, Tx
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 13:38:16 GMT


Does anyone have any ideas on how to increase the power produced by a normally
aspirated V-8 engine?

What I've got is a 77 TA w/ the Pontiac 400 cid engine. It was overhauled about
10k miles ago which included a mild performance street cam (intake .465 / 214 dur
@ .050, exhaust .480/224 dur @ .050). The heads had a "street-comp" port and valve
job (whatever street-comp is?). It has forged aluminum pistons and runs at 9.0:1
compression. The entire crank assembly has been balanced & bluprinted.
Its induction starts with the open scoop at the base of the windsheild through a
K&N cotton/wire mesh air filter, Holley 650 vac sec "emission" legal carb. It has
the original stock Pontiac manifold. The exhaust begins at 1-5/8" Hooker headers
w/ 3" collectors and includes a crossover pipe. The dual exhaust is 2-1/4" and
uses high flow mufflers.
The TH350 is driven by the stock 1200-1800 stall torque converter. The governor
is adjusted to provide WOT shifts at 5000 rpm. The power is transmitted to the
wheels through a GM-posi 10-bolt 3.07 differential. Traction is provided by
Goodyear ST P235R15 radials. Track times indicate an extreemly sluggish 60 foot
times in the 2 second range, 0-60mph is acheived in ~6.1 & 1/4 mile at ~14.5 secs.

I would like to push the 0-60 time down into the high five second range and
hopefully reduce the 1/4 mile time into the low 14's is this possible or am
I about at the maximum for a "street" configuration.

I still have the original 800 cfm Q-jet on the shelf in working order, it doesnt
get as good gas mileage as the Holley (currently 14mpg city/ 18 highway) but I
was wondering if the larger flow capacity would boost power? What about intake
manifold? Are there any that give good low rpm torque but allow better high rpm
breathing? Is there any evidence that synthetic motor oils can provide a small
increase in mechanical efficiency?  

Any experience or suggestions appreciated

Thanks,

Ericy
From: finnegan@invader.navo.navy.mil (Kenneth Finnegan)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Tools (Was: Oil Drain Plug Is Stuck)
Date: 31 Jul 92 19:48:59 GMT
Reply-To: finnegan@navo.navy.mil
Organization: Grumman Data Systems
Nntp-Posting-Host-[nntpd-2742]: invader.navo.navy.mil

In article <1992Jul31.081003.13654@btcase.bt.co.uk>, gss@btcase.bt.co.uk (Graham Sewell) writes:
|> dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) writes:
|> 
|> > They're better than 12-points, but the best are the Snap-On Flank Drive
|> >sockets I mentioned earlier.  Other tool companies may make something
|> >similar - and chances are, if they do, they'll be cheaper than Snap-On.
|> >Snap-On makes fine tools, but they're just too darned expensive.
|> >                                       
|> In the UK, a company called Richmond sell a set of spanners and a set of
|> sockets which work on the flats of the nut or bolt.  They were
|> reasonably priced and have got me out of problems in the past.

A co-worker told me that Wal-Mart has now started selling a line of
"Wal-Mart" brand tools that carry the same lifetime guarantee that
Craftsman tools do, but they cost about half as much.  Has anyone
had experience with this new line of tools?

Thanks,

Kenneth
finnegan@navo.navy.mil
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: arb@progress.COM (Alan R Bell)
Subject: Re: Synthetic oil
Summary: Use synth oil before 20000 miles
Keywords: oil, synthetic oil
Organization: Progress Software Corp.
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 16:26:20 GMT

In general, if you plan on using synth oils you should do so before you
have 20,000 miles(actually the sooner the better) since with regular oils
your rings, etc... will wear slightly and allow a synth oil enough room so
it will pass through.  



+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
 Alan R. Bell                                                          
 Progress Software Corp.                                               
 14 Oak Park                                                           
 Bedford, MA 01730                            
 Email: Alan.Bell@progress.com
From: muzzle@cs.uq.oz.au (Murray Chapman)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Fun pranks to pull with your car (Was: ++WHICH OIL BEST FOR)
Date: 24 Jul 92 03:44:02 GMT
Reply-To: muzzle@cs.uq.oz.au


Hi there


In <9215@alvin.mcnc.org> brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks) writes:

>Anybody else out there who has some interesting pranks they pull simply to
>enjoy boggling other driver's minds?

A friend of mine snapped his accelerator cable, and rather than leave his
car where it stood, we ran some string from the carby, up through the
vent, and in through the window.

A really old trick is to jack up the drive wheels of a friends car, so that
they don't go anywhere.  When they get used to checking for axle-stands, etc,
remove their driveshaft.

I had an accident in my car, which left my front curbside fender dented.  I
found a replacement for it, and decided to have some fun. I parked my car in a
public spot, then left it for an hour.  Got some friends, and we all ran up the
the car with baseball bats and beat the shit out of the (old) fender, and then
ran off.  The look on the faces of people across the road was priceless.

>Ted Brooks

Murray Chapman
muzzle@cs.uq.oz.au
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Shop Manual Advice: 88-Mercury Tracer
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 23 Jul 92 22:57:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * Jacksonville AR USA * 501-985-0059


-> In the past I've bought the Ford Shop Manual for a Fiesta and I was
-> very disappointed.  The factory manual seemed to be just a list of
-> procedures ( if this is wrong do this ...) without any decent
-> explanation of the workings of the various systems of the car.

 Sounds entirely reasonable to me.  Ford Shop Manuals are written for
Ford dealer mechanics, who presumably know how things work.  Not that
they care; most of them get paid on commission, so they want to fix the
sucker as fast as they can and move on to the next one.  "How it works"
is extraneous information.
        
From: ggg@hpsad.sad.hp.com (Gary Goodlund)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 15:14:59 GMT
Subject: Re: Oil in the clutch?
Organization: HP Signal Analysis Division - Rohnert Park, CA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

The difference may lie in the fact that "Mobil 1" is a very "slick" 
synthetic oil and the motorcycle clutch may not lock up as well with 
it.  I've used both wet and dry clutches on motorcycles and they both
seem to do the job equally well so I'm not sure of the pros & cons of 
either of them.  I don't remember any cars or trucks that use a wet
clutch so maybe they don't handle the higher horse power/torque as well.
     The info's probably worth what it cost so use it as you will...

             Bye now,
               Gary
From: kevinr@ceco.ceco.com (Kevin R. Rumbaugh)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Fuel injector problems with Lumina Z34
Date: 25 Jul 92 20:23:31 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Commonwealth Edison Co.

After having my less-than-a-year old Z34 break down on my while
I was traveling both times because of a bad/messed up fuel
injector, I thought I would see if any one else out there
in net land might have experienced any similar problems?

After the second injector went, they found that the part number
had been superseded by a new part (hence maybe something was wrong
with the design of the original) and they replaced all six 
of the injectors.  All of this was done under warranty (including
a rental car for nine days the second time) so it did not cost
me anything but aggrievation and a couple of days missed worked.

This car is a 1991 Chevrolet Lumina Z34 with the 3.4L DOHC 24-valve
engine.  The same engine can be found in various Gran Prix's and
Cutlass's, if anyone has had or heard about similar problems I
would be interested in hearing about them.

PS. I have used nothing but >=92 octane gas either.

                     Kevin Rumbaugh  'The Marauder'
		      --- Commonwealth Edison ---
E-MAIL    : kevinr@ceco.com  OR   uunet!ceco!kevinr
AT&T      : (312) 294-8894        FAX	: (312) 294-4233
USMAIL    : Information Systems; Room 1139; 125 S. Clark; Chicago IL 60603
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk (Codesmiths)
Subject: Haynes addresses
Cc: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Reply-To: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 14:22:00 +0000

I was asked for these in mail, and thought the newsgroup in general
could benefit from them:


        Haynes Publishing Group
        Sparkford
        Nr Yeovil
        Somerset
        BA22 7JJ
        England

        Haynes Publications Inc
        861 lawrence Drive
        Newbury Park
        California
        91320

          Andy Dingley    dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dak@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu (David Kardelis- I am the NRA)
Subject: STALLING ENGINE
Reply-To: dak@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu
Organization: High Energy Physics, University of Illinois, Urbana-Champaign
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 01:27:31 GMT

	I have recently acquired a 73 Jeep Wagoneer with the
AMC 360 V8. I have been having a hard time getting it started when the engine 
is cold. A squirt of Starting Fluid in the carb starts it right up. 
To keep it running then I have to hold the gas pedal down til the engine is
warm. With the engine warm the car idles fine and will restart
easily. WHat would cause this sort of problem?
	The Jeep also will stall out when driving. It accelerates fine
but if I hit the brakes(power) or try to turn sharply it stalls. 
I have driven it about 3 blocks to the gas station to put some 
fresh gas in the tank. 

	Details:
	Jeep has been sitting for several years. The exhaust is incomplete
and many of the vacuum hoses are broke. I have not checked the 
gas tank for water yet. I was hoping to get some idea of where the
problem would be coming from. Do I need to rebuild/readjust the carb? 
Should I just order the carb replacement/refab kit from JC WHITNEY? 

Would I need an exhaust to keep the car running?
I know a car usually runs a little smoother with the exhaust on it 
but I did not think it was required. I wanted to get the engine running
reliably before I took it in to get the exhaust and shocks replaced. 
			thanks in advance

PS any advice on where to get parts for Wagoneers would be appreciated. 
All the catalogs only carry the CJ stuff for the most part.
==========================================================================
   David Kardelis		| I am the NRA-NRA Life
   Gradual Student in Physics   |
   Univ. of Ilinois		|	Looking for a new .SIG
   dak@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu	|
   217-333-0505			|
Not necessarily the views of the ISSC or the UI At UC
==========================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ab556@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Robert Michael Martel)
Subject: Re: harmonic balancer
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio, (USA)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 92 13:41:00 GMT


Sounds right to me.  I had to have the balancer rebuilt on my '68
Mustang 289 when I was rebuilding the engine at 110,000.  The 
rubber was cracked and brittle.  Looked like a shot door weather-
strip.  Yes, they can wear out.

	bob
	bob2@cua3.csuohio.edu

-- 
Robert M. Martel                  | He who made kittens
bob2@cua3.csuohio.edu             |   Put snakes in the grass
R1004@vmcms.csuohio.edu           | He is a lover of life
ab556@cwns2.ins.cwru.edu          |   But a player of pawns
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kenny@osf.org (Kenneth Crudup)
Subject: Re: Carbon Buildup in engines ( valves ? ).....
Keywords: engine cleaners, water, alcohol, solvents
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 18:51:05 GMT

In article <1992Jul23.040823.3342@genie.slhs.udel.edu>
carl@genie.slhs.udel.edu (Carl Devore) writes:
>Why not just use one of the many solvents sold expressly for this purpose?

Such as??????

p.s. to the "water injection" folks dribbling water down the intake to clean
their combustion chambers- go *really* slowly- water is incompressible, and
if too much gets in during the compression or exhaust strokes, you may crack 
your head or break a valve or piston. I'm surprised no-one else mentioned this
caveat.

	-Kenny
-- 
Kenneth R. Crudup, Contractor, OSF DCE QA
OSF, 11 Cambridge Center, Cambridge, MA 02142	+1 617 621 7306
kenny@osf.osf.org			OSF has nothing to do with this post.
From: jimv@hienergy.Eng.Sun.COM (Jim Vienneau  - Sun Microsystems)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Chevy Headliner Replacement
Date: 30 Jul 1992 13:47:01 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Mt. View, Ca.
Distribution: na
NNTP-Posting-Host: hienergy.east.sun.com

In article <1992Jul28.063425.12585@mr.med.ge.com> hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987) writes:
>I have a friend who buys headliner material in bulk, and has the technique down
>for SAABs, anyway.  It basically goes like this:  (no guarantees that your car
...

Does anyone have a good place to buy headliner material? The only place I've
ever been able to get it is from a local shop that really ripped me off.
Mail order maybe?


--
Jim Vienneau, Sun Microsystems Inc - Billerica, MA
Email: jvienneau@east.sun.com   Amateur Radio: WB1B
Good old Ma Bell (well old anyway): (508)671-0372
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: DIY compression meter
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 92 10:08:38 GMT

george@mech.seas.upenn.edu writes:
: 
: :Say,
: :for instance, you have a 2 litre, 4 cyl. engine, with a 10:1 compression
: :ratio.  Each cyl. has 500cc displacement at BDC, and 50cc volume at
: :TDC.  if you add, say, 10cc worth of tubing capacity, you have an error
: :of 20%.  (No flames if I got the math wrong, it's 05:16 and I haven't slept
: :in 30 hours).
: 
: well, if the tdc volume is 50cc and the cylinder displacement is 500cc
: then the bdc volume is 550cc so the compression is 550:50, or 11:1
: [56cc's at the top gives you 10:1]
: 
: if you add 10cc the the apparent compression is 560:60 or 9.3:1,
: however if that 10cc is in the form of the long tube and your measurement
: is made by quickly cranking the engine there will be a dynamic effect
: and your measuremant will be even lower..
: 
Yikes!  I just re-read what I wrote yesterday, and now that I have gotton SOME
sleep, I can't believe I wrote that.  Good point, George.  Like I said, I
was tired.

A good hint for checking compression is to crank the engine over several times,
with the other plugs out, and the pressure will pretty much optimize this way.
You still will have the tubing volume to deal with, but perhaps the better
compression gages have this calibrated out?  Or could they, since the
volume at TDC is different for all engines?  Hmmmmm...I bet this IS why they
tell you to look at deviation rather than absolute numbers.

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - you get what you pay for; you pay for what you get.
hinz@picard.med.ge.com
From: rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com (Bob Rusk)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: J B Weld?
Date: 29 Jul 92 16:02:48 GMT
Reply-To: rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com
Organization: Harris Computer Systems Division

On 29 Jul 92 13:54:14 GMT, ward@m.cs.uiuc.edu (Christ Ward) wrote:

>Yesterday I fixed my bicycles headset with this J B Weld stuff.
>It seems to have worked (I won't know for a long time if it really worked).
>I'm wandering if anybody out there has used this stuff as they claim it can 
>be used...i.e. to fix tractor axles, the inside of an engine, or any of their
>increadible claims.  I used it because AFOM swears by the strange goo.

I have used JB Weld and Marine Tex (very similar, a little thicker, better
for vertical surfaces) to hold 80-100 PSI on an oil gallery of a diesel engine,
and know people who have used them to patch cracked water jackets on marinized
Chevy and Ford V-8's that have frozen over the winter.  While not exactly
the first choice for a cost-no-object repair, it's a wonderful get-me-by.

>Also, what is it?  Is it just a epoxy or what (comes in two tubes: hardner and
>steel).  I mean they claim it can be drilled, tapped, machined and so forth...
>hard to believe, but, my friend says he's use it for many of these aplications.

I understand it to be an epoxy containing metal fibers (aluminum?), but this
may be heresay.  It can indeed be drilled and machined like metal.

>So let me know what you know about J B Weld (if it's as good as they say it is,
>it would be a good addition to any tool kit).

It's a wonderful addition to a toolkit.  I like Marine Tex better, though.
Get it at a marine supply house.

--
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Bob Rusk			    | An egoless acceptance of stuckness is a
 rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com	    | key to an understanding of all Quality.
 My thoughts, probably not Harris'. |			   - Robert M. Pirsig
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: eur@dutncp2.tn.tudelft.nl (Eur van Andel)
Subject: Re: Help with CV joint replacement
Keywords: SUBARU
Organisation: TU Delft, The Netherlands
Organization: Delft University of Technology
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 11:34:36 GMT

In <1992Jul27.221357.3211@data-io.com> gryder@caddy.Data-IO.COM (Gerald Ryder) writes:

>I am about to undertake a CV joint replacement on my 1984 SUBARU GL wagon. I have
>never done this before. Anything to look out for? Any tips? Any special tools
>needed?

You might need a torx tool to loosen the bolts: check first.
From: michaeln@hpcvnb.CV.HP.COM (Mike_Nason)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Carbon Buildup in engines ( valves ? ).....
Date: 26 Jul 92 06:16:44 GMT
Article-I.D.: hpcvnb.61050017
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Corvallis, Oregon


  for what it's worth, here's my 2 cents worth. someone asked what kind or 
name of something made for removing carbon deposits from combustion chambers.
i personally like the "GM upper engine cleaner" sold at GM dealers. it runs 
about 3.50 a can. you can run it into the engine down the carb or you can
run it in the fuel. if you  have a bad problem run it thru the carb. 
   i once had a jeep with a burnt exaust valve. that same cylinder had a
leaky intake seal so it would carbon up about every 5 months. the gm cleaner
cleaned up the valve and cylinder enough that the miss would go away and 
performance would come back for about 6 months. 
   i have also used this chemical to remove heavy carbon from piston tops
of a tore down engine. i had the head off from a ford courier and just 
poured a little of it on the piston tops, about 5 minutes later i took 
an acid brush and rubbed the heavy carbon deposits. they desolved and i
just wiped the rest of it off with a shop towel. 
   i understand from an instructor that i had, that the gm school up
in beaverton or was using a can of the upper engine cleaner and 5 gal
of gas and pumping it thru fuel injectors to clean them up. 
     as i said, just my opinion. mike nason 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: Increasing power?
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 21:24:46 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 I'll second the idea about using lower rear end gearing. And the converter
too. You did all that work so you could flow some air, and you want to do
that as soon as possible. That means you want the revs up, and quickly.
Your slow start times are telling you this. 

 Supposedly to optimize your dragstrip preformance you want to be geared so
that you are just past your peak HP RPM in top gear when you hit the end.
With 3.08:1 gears you're probably not even close. I think 3.56:1 is as high
as you can go in a 10-bolt. 4.11:1 is where you probably want to be for 
the strip but it's no good for cruising. I think Chuck's analysis is on
the money.
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech