HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: bdl@cruiser.uucp (Bob Lombard)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: SHO air conditioner
Keywords: low a/c
Date: Sat, 05 Sep 92 08:39:28 PDT
Distribution: usa
Organization: what? me organized? no way!

stanford@verbis.waisman.wisc.edu writes:

> 
>         The air conditioning in my Taurus SHO (1990) recently decided to
> no longer produce cold air.  Thinking perhaps that a slow leak had developed
> (I noticed it at the beginning of summer when it had not been asked to
> produce cold air for some time), I recharged the system with R12.  All was
> well for a short time (about 3 weeks) but now it, again, produces air that
> is only slightly cooler than ambient.

I had a similar problem in my Volvo, turned out to be plugged Drier.
(Looks like a 6-10" long cylinder, in the refrigerent line)  If there
isn't a slow leak, this is probably it.  Unfortunately, to change it
requires a vacuum pump to evacuate the system prior to recharging.  An
item that even the *most well equipped* home mechanic probably ain't got.

I took mine to an independent A/C & Radiator shop,  diagnoses & repair
was a grand total of $100, including parts/labor.

Good Luck


*****************************************************************
* Bob Lombard ||  bdl@cruiser.uucp  || 418 Village Center Drive *
*             ||                    || Encinitas, Ca. 92024     *
*  |~~|_                                                        *
*  |    :           "If it ain't green and it ain't old,        *
*  '0-0-''..../\..   .. it ain't my truck                       *
*****************************************************************
From: dlou@KRUSHER.UCSD.EDU (Dennis Lou)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: What's a good one??? was Re: CLUB Story
Date: 8 Sep 92 04:46:06 GMT
Reply-To: dlou@ece.ucsd.edu
Organization: University of California, San Diego


In article <Bu8o2o.B8r.1@cs.cmu.edu>, rudis+@cs.cmu.edu (Rujith S DeSilva) writes:
|> In article <60094@mimsy.umd.edu> jsw@umiacs.umd.edu (Jeff Webber) writes:
|> >In article <Bu274D.2uy.1@cs.cmu.edu> rudis+@cs.cmu.edu (Rujith S DeSilva)
|> >(that's me!) writes: 
|> >>Okay, so you can't reduce the risk of your car being stolen to zero.  Perhaps
|> >>it's time to take a different tack.  How about increasing the risk taken by
|> >>the prospective thief in attempting to steal your car?
|> >
|> >You can go to jail for harming someone that is trying to steal your car
|> >or your car stereo.   If the person dies you would probably be charged
|> >with manslaughter or even murder.
|> 
|> I originally suggested hooking up the alarm system to release tear gas.  A
|> friend suggested that it should instead release a tranquilizer.  This can't be
|> considered to harm anyone, can it?

Why even make the gas noxious?  Why not just make it harmless?  I'm sure
it's more for show than for effect.

 
|> >There are just way too many lawyers in this country.
|> 
|> I agree.  Completely.

Ditto.

How much does a handheld GPS cost?  Why not rig one to a modem and hook
the thing via an auto voice/data switch to your cellular phone.  If your
car gets stolen, you call your car and download it's position!

Another thing is if you have a cellular phone repeater in your car, you
can rig it to page you if your alarm sounds.


-- 
Dennis Lou             || "But Yossarian, what if everyone thought that way?"
dlou@ucsd.edu          || "Then I'd be crazy to think any other way!"
[backbone]!ucsd!dlou   |+====================================================
dlou@ucsd.BITNET       |Steve Jobs and Steve Wozniak went to my high school.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: johni@ee.ubc.ca (john ip)
Subject: Dura-Lube 
Organization: University of BC, Electrical Engineering
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 1992 06:05:09 GMT

I have been check this group for any posting on Dura-Lube and so far, no body
said much about it.  So...

Has anybody tried this stuff?

Have they put Dura-Lube through tests by a trust worthy 3rd party? 

You have to agree that in the commercial, having the tests done in this 
shack of a garage with a bunch of oogling mechanics looking on is pretty 
suspicious. 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jrp@bohra.cpg.oz.au (John Pitman)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: disc brakes again
Keywords: area snd effectibveness
Date: 13 Sep 92 00:27:43 GMT
Organization: Computer Power Software

Hi , me again
re area of usefulness drums vs discs - take a 3" wide 11" dia drum system -as I
said earlier, the largest the english europeans got to  - you get a swept areaof 115 some square ins. take an 11" dia disc, with say a 5" hub (not swept), what
do you get - funny , its 150 sqare ins in my book! so much for that. As for pull
off springs, look at a caliper some time - the seal is a square section rubber
(or whatever) in a square groove. the overhang of the seal out of the groove is
set so that when used the seal flexes a little bfore the piston slides through 
it, and when the pressure is removed, this flex is used to pull the pistom back
a bee's dick, and you have little or no residual friction. When the seals have 
been overheated and gone hard, they dont flex, and you have binding of the pads.
No most people have never seen boiling or even svere fade, but talk to anybody
who has towed anything down a mountain in something with marginal brakes, and 
you will find out it happens. the real cheapskates were those who designed a
car with brakes that could only do 1 panic stop before fading, because to fix
it meant harder linings, which meant better drums, a bigger booster etc and
so on up the line - more research, testing etc. Take a look some time at the
front drum set un on a Benz or ROLLS - the iron cylinders are the biggest I've seen outside commercial systems, but the rest is very simple  - no springs or
wires or hooks!
jp
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: atovorni@engr.UVic.CA (Andreas  Tovornik)
Subject: Re: I NEED 2nd CAR..$2-300..ADVICE?..SELLE
Reply-To: atovorni@engr.UVic.CA
Organization: University of Victoria, Victoria, BC, Canada
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 92 02:26:04 GMT

    Three years ago I bought a Buick Century (1981) for $400. I abused it
for a year, and sold it for $600. It was not quick, it drank a lot of gas for
the performance it gave, but it was tough and reliable.
                                                         
                                                               Good Luck, 
                                
                                                                        AT



From: billf@hpcvra.cv.hp.com (Bill Faus)
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 15:50:32 GMT
Subject: Re: BRONCO II erratic ideling / EGR system at fault?
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Corvallis, OR, USA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

Another simple item to check is the TAC valve that vents
warm air off the exhaust manifold into the air cleaner.
I had similar symtoms with my Bronco II, including carburetor
icing during long trips on cold days, until a shop
diagnosed this problem.  A new TAC (I think that's the
name of the valve in the air clener snorkel??) is relatively
cheap and easy to install.

After a day of hard offroad work my EGR, Air Injection, and
Cat all fell off.  I haven't located the right parts to
reinstall them yet.  And lo and behold the engine runs
fine without them :-)  The carb and ignition on this engine
was Ford's answer to stricter pollution requriements and
they were too cheap to install fuel injection like
everyone else.  Eventually they gave up on the idea
of an electro-mechanical carb and switched
to fuel injection in '86.  FI is cheaper, simpler,
cleaner, etc, than the quirky EM system. If you've got the
time and money, buy a Holley 350 or Weber 38/38 and
get an older style distributor (Capri's Mustang II's, etc)
and you'll see a performance improvement of about 30%.

-Bill
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:12441 sci.environment:11226 sci.chem:3474
From: bphdarcy@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (SJ Roc D'Arcy, MBP)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,sci.environment,sci.chem
Subject: Re:  Hydrides
Date: 10 Sep 92 13:38:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <1992Sep9.082509.4474@bb1t.monsanto.com>, bjgaed@bb1t.monsanto.com writes...
> 
>I don't remember the exact numbers, but the metal sponges 
>can hold a surprising amount of hydrogen, more than their 
>own weight, I believe.

Hmm.  This maybe true under exception, but just due to atomic weight alone,
coupled with availible valence, I don't see how anything could absorb its
weight in hydrogen.  Most of the weight of hydrocarbons is the carbon not
the hydrogen (again there is exception).

SJRD
From: bphdarcy@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (SJ Roc D'Arcy, MBP)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Good books to learn auto mechanics?
Date: 14 Sep 92 15:32:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <1992Sep12.033515.2237@koko.csustan.edu>, james@koko.csustan.edu (Jonas Grumpy) writes...
> 
>You wanna be an auto mechanic?? I hope your five years old. Because that
>is the best age to start learning. 

I really can't agree or believe this at all.  One of the best 
auto-mechanics I know is a.) Female  b.) Never got involved in  mechanics 
util she was 21.  True that some of the best international Harvester 
Tractor Mechanics may be 65+, but many of the best I know have not grown up 
as motorheads (as I did). 

>You have to be raised an auto mechanic.
>There is no book(s) thacan n teach you mechanics.

There are quite a few good books that teach automechanics.  One was 
mentioned in the  post before this one, and quite a few others exist.
One is the "Everymans guide to Fixin' Cars."  

> If you want to be
>better than 80% of the mechanics out their. You had better be prepared
>to give up your current lifestyle and become an apprentice at joes corner
>gastation. 

This is like saying that to be an electrician one has to rewire ones first 
circuit breaker at age two.

>Being a mechanic is more tn changing your brakes or installing
>a rebuilt water pump.

I guess I would like a bit of specifics.  I agree with part of your point 
that experience is a great help in the a. mechanics wourd, but most of this 
can be made up for by asking others.

SJRD
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: harling@pictel.com (Dan Harling)
Subject: Re: Dirty oil after change?
Keywords: oil changes
Organization: PictureTel Corporation
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 19:03:25 GMT

In article <18ocibINN159@seven-up.East.Sun.COM> jimv@hienergy.Eng.Sun.COM (Jim Vienneau  - Sun Microsystems) writes:
>The other truth is: trust no one to work on your car. Dealers and garages
>are there to make a buck off you, they don't care if you get 50K or 250K 
>out of your car. The quick lube places WILL NOT grease your car (they
>know you can't tell) and may or may not damage the drain plug, replace the
>filter, etc. The dealers and garages will misdiagnose your problem and replace
>good parts. When they find this didn't fix the problem, they will claim
>that the already replaced parts were bad too. The auto repair and 
>maintenance industry is as crooked as they get (OK, there's probably a
>few honest ones, but I haven't found one yet).
>--
>Jim Vienneau, Sun Microsystems Inc - Billerica, MA

It's a bit of a hike for you, but I have gone to the Jiffy Lube in
Beverly, MA for about two years now.  I always watch their work, and
shoot the breeze with them in the bay.  Of course, bringing in a '70
Challenger or a '66 Fury works well as a conversation-starter.  I
haven't seen them leave anything out even once, so I don't lose any
sleep if I take my eye off them for a minute or two.

The hardest part is finding a garage or mechanic or whatever that you
can trust, and the best way to do that is to find someone who you can
talk shop with, so that they *like* working for you.  It has worked for
me.
____________________________________________________________________________
Daniel A. Harling                        (harling@pictel.com)
PictureTel Corp.             Opinions expressed are not necessarily those of
Peabody, MA  01960                 PictureTel, but they ought to be!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: finneyk@seanews.akita.com (Ken Finney)
Subject: 1988 Toyota PU 4 cylinder EFI oil leak
Organization: SEANEWS - Seattle Public Access News & Mail
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 23:33:39 GMT


My wife's 1988 Toyota PU with the 4 cylinder EFI engine appears to
be leaking oil from the from of the block (definitely not the valve
cover or the oil pan).  What are the possibilities (camshaft thrust
bearing cover plate, an alternator or PS pump mounting bracket bolt
that goes into an oil passage, etc), and is one of these more
likely than another?
From: psanders@ll.mit.edu (Pete Sanders)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Experiences with Maaco
Date: 14 Sep 92 17:50:48 GMT
Organization: MIT Lincoln Laboratory
Originator: psanders@ll.mit.edu (Pete Sanders)


In article <24768@oasys.dt.navy.mil> jeanthea@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Mark Jeantheau) writes:
>Anybody have any experiences, good or bad, with Maaco Autobody? I'm
>considering having my peeling '84 Mustang painted; they quoted me
>$900. That's about what I want to spend, and they give a two-year
>written warranty. I know you don't get a great paint job for $900, but
>it doesn't really have to be great -- I only need it to last a few years
>(car has 132K miles on it).  And I don't want to spend more than $1000.
>
>Any comments?
>

	I had my car painted at Maaco and I was satified with their work. The
quality of work may have to do with which Maaco you go to. Like I said, The
job they did at Maaco in Somerville Ma was decent.

	I did all the bodywork myself and let them decide where to mask. They
did a pretty good job masking ( they didn't paint over glass or chrome). I would
however recommend that you dont't have them paint the door jams. It seems like
most of the complaints were because the got paint in the interior of the car.
Since I didn't have them do the jams (I was painting the car the original color)
there was no evidence of paint int the car. The did get paint inside the wheel wells and on parts of the exaust system but then they painted all that stuff
black which really made it look nice. They were going to charge me $280.00 just
to do the door jams (NOT!).

	As far as finish goes I'm also satisfied. It cost me $300.00 for the
job and it still looks nice after two years of New England weather. Of course
I have waxed it about four times within that period.

	Overall I'm satisfied with their work. Of course if I was going to have
a new car fixed or a classic restored I certainly would not go to Maaco, but
for making a one time beater into a decent looking rod I would.

	Pete
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: behanna@phoenix.syl.nj.nec.com (Chris BeHanna)
Subject: Re: estimating real performance gains
Organization: NEC Systems Laboratory, Inc.
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 92 22:06:11 GMT

In article <1992Sep7.112916@worf.UCSD.Edu> dlou@ece.ucsd.edu writes:
>
>Given a car's curb weight, max horsepower rating, max torque rating, etc.
>is it possible to ESTIMATE how much an increase in horsepower/torque
>would be necessary to reduce the 0-60 time by 1 second (assuming the
>change in timing, exhaust manifold, or whatever does not cause the 
>power/torque to decrease along any point of its original curve)?
>
>How about the necessary reduction in weight?  reduction by 1 second  in
>1/4 mile times?  top speed?

	a) Determine the acceleration you need.  Assuming constant
           acceleration (a bad assumption), a=2x/t^2 for a fixed distance and
           a=v/t for a fixed velocity.

	b) F=ma

	c) P=Fv=ma * (integral)a dt

	This assumes da/dt = 0, which is almost always invalid for motor
vehicle acceleration.  You really need a(t) to be more accurate.  You can make
a first approximation with a stepwise function using 0-20 times, 20-40 times,
etc.

Good luck,
-- 
Chris BeHanna	DoD# 114  KotHLF    1983 H-D FXWG Wide Glide (She lives!)
behanna@syl.nj.nec.com	            (I need another bike for this space!)

Disclaimer:  Now why would NEC agree with any of this anyway?
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mikey@yoho.carleton.ca (Mike G McFaul)
Subject: Re: Malm's Wax
Keywords: car wax
Organization: Carleton University, Ottawa, Canada
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 17:07:05 GMT

In article <1992Sep3.172002.27181@iitmax.iit.edu> vonb@iitmax.iit.edu (Robert Von Borstel) writes:
>I want to get a good wax for my car.  From what I've seen,
>having 'carnauba' is a must.  Anyone have any experience with
>Malm's wax?  They advertise in R&T, C&D, etc.
>
>$31 - wax,  $49 wax+polish
>
>Any other recommendations?  Point me to a faq if this is
>already answered.
>
>Thanx.
>

Testamonial: I use it and I've had no problems at all with it. In fact
I find the polish/cleaner to be excellant for removing small
scratches/bug guts/tar/oxidized paint. The wax covers well -- a little
goes a long way... I recommend it...
From: r4s@icf.hrb.com (Robert M. Sanders)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Ford Probe GT specs & questions
Date: 8 Sep 92 16:46:48 GMT
Organization: HRB Systems, Inc.

Hi y'all,
  I've been reading with interest the discussion going on in rec.autos
about the Ford Probe and various engines.  The questions I had though I 
thought belonged here, so here goes.....

  1)  I've got a 1992 GT with the 2.2L 4cyl turbo engine.  All the ratings
      I've seen give it around 145 hp.  Is this accurate?  My roommate 
      thinks it should be closer to 180 or so after being in it.
  2)  Being new to sticks, and not having a racetrack handy, I've never
      really pushed the car to top speed, or really floored it.  What
      is the top speed and accelerations for this beastie?
  3)  Another novice question regarding the turbo.  I haven't played 
      around with it enough to find this out yet (deliberate experimentation
      I mean, I've had the car 8 months and have put 14.5K on it already), but
      what are the conditions for it to engaged, and what things can seriously
      damaged it?  Excessive overboost, long duration low-to-mid boost, etc.

  Any answers to the above would be appreciated, thanks......


					Rob


-- 
Robert M. Sanders                             Internet: R4S@ICF.HRB.COM
HRB Systems, Inc.                             Bitnet  : R4S%HRB@PSUECL.BITNET
State College, PA  USA                        UUCP    : ...!psuvax1!hrbicf!r4s
(814)-238-4311
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: tim@etch-eshop.Berkeley.EDU (tim)
Subject: '86 Celica Halfshaft
Reply-To: tim@etch-eshop.Berkeley.EDU (tim)
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 1992 20:31:17 GMT



>> I'll be damned if I can find any driveshaft stopper bolt.

All I can share is that on my '82 Subaru, the halfshaft slips away from
the tranny after tapping out a "spring pin" which goes through a hole
in the side of the axel shaft near the trans.  If you have something
like that let me know and I'll tell you how to get it out.

Tim Klohck

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: milliganc@woods.ulowell.edu
Subject: CADZZILLA
Organization: University of Lowell
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 16:23:16 GMT

A question,
 	does anyone know if there is any aftermarket equipment for the 
500 cid Cadillacs of the late 60's to mid 70's?  I have a '75 Sedan DeVille
(4-door hardtop) that I am putting on the shelf for a while and would like to 
dress it up a bit in the engine bay.  In the 50's a company called Detriot
Racing made items such as headers, 2-4 and 3-2 manifolds and such.  Do they 
still exist?
Thank you for your time,
KILROY

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: gill@eagle (Warren Gill)
Subject: Re: Annoying Achieva
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Organization: Sangamon State University
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 02:47:09 GMT

  Yes, the Achieva's doors lock automatically when you put it in gear.
I think the Fire Dept/Rescue Squad would sooner break the safety glass
(windshield or back glass) than spend 10 or 15 minutes trying to pry open
a bent door (locked or unlocked) anyway!

--
      ______                                                               
      )     (   Warren Gill, Microcomputer Software Specialist
     /       |  Sangamon State University, Springfield, IL                 
    (        |  Internet:        gill@eagle.sangamon.edu
     \_  *   |                                                             
       \     |  HSB-117          Monday-Friday 08:00-16:30 CDT
       /    /   217/786-7354
        \/\/    
          It is better to know nothing than to know what ain't so.        
           {H.W. Shaw}                                                    
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: Annoying Achieva
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 92 09:13:02 GMT

Warren Gill (gill@eagle) wrote:
:   Yes, the Achieva's doors lock automatically when you put it in gear.
: I think the Fire Dept/Rescue Squad would sooner break the safety glass
: (windshield or back glass) than spend 10 or 15 minutes trying to pry open
: a bent door (locked or unlocked) anyway!

I'm on a volunteer fire department.  We just recently started reporting to
traffic accidents, so my experience here is limited, but using the crowbar
(we don't have JAWS yet) is the method of choice, to eliminate the broken
glass getting on the patient.  Also, most cars are built so crappy that 
they deform such that you can't open the doors if they're unlocked anyway,
after a major crash.

If the car is smashed up good, a bit of crowbar (jaws) damage won't matter
much, the insurance companies have too much of our money anyway.

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.
hinzd@picard.med.ge.com
From: behanna@phoenix.syl.nj.nec.com (Chris BeHanna)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Anybody know how to remove a windshield?
Date: 4 Sep 92 22:24:03 GMT
Article-I.D.: research.1992Sep4.222403.2700
Organization: NEC Systems Laboratory, Inc.

In article <1992Sep04.162824.28083@bnr.ca> Peon w/o Email Priv (Eric Youngblood) writes:
>
>I have seen a thin wire used to cut the seal between the winshield and the
>frame. Essentially it was a steel wire that was poked through a small gap 
>made into the gasket material. The ends where then attached to wooden handles
>and the repairman and a helper merely pulled the wire around the perimeter of
>the windshield. They then lifted the now "separated" glass from the frame. POC

	Why not do this one better and use a hot wire (pass current through
it and heat it up)?

Just curious,
-- 
Chris BeHanna	DoD# 114   1983 Harley-Davidson FXWG Wide Glide (She lives!)
behanna@syl.nj.nec.com	   (I need another bike for this space!)

Disclaimer:  Now why would NEC agree with any of this anyway?
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: serafin@epcot.spdc.ti.com (Mike Serafin)
Subject: Re: Aftermarket turbo kits
Organization: TI Semiconductor Process and Design Center
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 18:50:45 GMT

In article <5630167@hplsla.hp.com> genet@hplsla.hp.com (Gene Taylor) writes:
>>In article tafrakes@athena.mit.edu (T. Andy Frakes) writes:
>>|> Can someone give me some info on aftermarket turbo kits?  I'm mainly
>>|> looking for the following info:
>>|> 
>>|> 1)  Where to get them.  Approx. cost w/ and w/o installation.
>>|> 
>>|> 2)  How well they function (much difference from factory installed?)
>>|> 
>>|> 3)  Ease of installation (how much is involved)
>>|> 
>>|> 
>>|> I'm thinking of adding a turbo to a '92 Eclipse (1.8L).  Any other
>>|> suggestions would also be appreciated.
>>|> 
>>|> -Andy
>>
>>Why don't you just trade your car in on one with the factory turbo?
>>You'll save yourself a lot of time, money, & headaches in the long run,
>>and you'll have a car you can take to a competent mechanic for 
>>maintenance.  You'll also have better resale value.
>>----------
>
>I second this motion.  I've tried to convert vehicles from what I had
>into what I thought I wanted and it was always 10 times the effort and
>money that I expected and it never turned out exactly the way it was
>planned.  In all cases, it would have been cheaper to buy it than
>convert it.
>
>my $.02
>-Gene

Ok, but where do I find a factory built turbocharged F250 4x4, 460ci, 5sp,
pickup?  
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech