HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: kroth@sunshine.Kodak.COM (David Kroth)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Air Compressor Wisdon
Date: 28 Aug 92 14:01:24 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Eastman Kodak Co., Rochester, NY


The tank on my compressor is upright.  The drain valve is located on
the bottom of the tank near the floor.  I keep a small plastic cup under
the tank and leave the valve open just a crack all the time.  The
air SLOWLY hisses out and keeps the tank water free.  I'm not worried
about losing much air.  I have left the compressor in this state for
up to two weeks and only lose 25-30 psi of pressure on the 60gal tank.


Dave Kroth
kroth@acadia.kodak.com
From: stevem@gold.gvg.tek.com (Steve Miller)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: My name is Steve, and I am a molding nerd...
Date: 3 Sep 92 18:56:22 GMT
Organization: Grass Valley Group, Grass Valley, CA

In article <Btx0xq.ADo@news.orst.edu> holtt@OCE.ORST.EDU (Tim Holt) writes:
>Hi...
>A side note from the general hubub of this group as to what's the best
>sander/jig/saw/etc.
>
>
>Last night, I was trying to explain to my wife the details of how you make 
>some kinds of molding using antique planes (specifically, hollows and
>rounds), when she told me, in no uncertain terms, that I was a "molding
>nerd".  My responce was something like, "uh... so?"  But it got me
>thinking and I wonder how many other "molding nerds" there are out
>there.  
>
	Some gud stuff deleted

>I sign myself, Tim (Molding Nerd) Holt
>
>Uppity Molding Nerds rise up and show your baseboards!

I am a Molding Nerd, and proud of it.  Not a Nerd (tm) that is molding, but
a Nerd that likes molding.  I used to be a closet Molding Nerd, but came
out because there just isn't much molding in there.

Steve Miller

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Steve Miller, Grass Valley Group, Grass Valley, CA. 95959, Mail stop N32B
916-478-3059, stevem@gold.gvg.tek.com.  The Six Phases of a Project:
  1. Enthusiasm  2. Disillusionment  3. Panic  4. Search for the guilty
  5. Punishment of the innocent  6. Praise and reward for the nonparticipants
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
	I don't speak for GVG, they don't have much molding.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: CAREFUL WITH THAT PROPELLER!!!!
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 23:01:10 GMT

Bob Haar writes
> In article 6512@adobe.com, bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds) writes:
> |>Bob Haar writes
> |>> ... If all the curves are convex, you can still "raise" 
> |>> the panel with the vertical bits.
> |>
> |>It would be difficult to keep the bit perpendicular to the tangent along  
the 
> |>curve. For the ogee bit profiles, the more you vary, the worse the result. 
> |>Plus, there's the additional difficulty that the opening in the fence  
becomes
> |>the means by which depth of cut is controlled. Sounds tricky to me.
>
> It shouldn't be any more difficult than any edge routing operation
> whith a curved edge. 

But normal edge routing operations utilize a bearing on the bit, which the
vertical panel raisers can't have. 

Also, normal edge routing operations have the bit rotating in the same plane as 
the workpiece - vertical panel raisers rotate perpendicular to the workpiece's 
plane. This means that the rotational angle of the workpiece to the bit 
matters.


> (I would plan on a number of passes, taking a deeper
> cut each time.

Remember that to change the depth of cut for each pass you've got to 
raise or lower the router mounting (remember, you've got a horizontally 
oriented router here and are running the workpiece horizontally). This could be 
easy or hard depending on your router table's design.

 
> AS I think about it more, I would probably want to guide attached to the
> fence "wall" with a guide pin sticking down over the bit. This would 
> act like an inverted-pin-router. 

Except that the axis of bit rotation would not be in line with the pin like it
is in an inverted-pin-router. And, the pin would only control the width of the 
raised area, it would do nothing for keeping the bit normal to the workpiece's 
curved edge.

Look, you've got a router table with a horizontally oriented router with a 
vertical panel raising bit that fits into a notch cut into the horizontal
table. The router's baseplate is attached to a vertical fence. You place the
workpiece flat on the horizontal table and move it into the bit until it hits 
the fence. Now, what's to say that the vertical fence is tangent to the
workpiece's curved edge? Nothing. You could rock the workpiece against the
fence (all the time remaining in contact with the table top) if you wanted. 
All the pin in the fence does is provide a stop so you don't slide into
the fence too far.

IMHO, if you are thinking about using a vertical panel raiser on a curved 
edge without some jig to keep the bit in line with the normal at each point
along the curve, you haven't thought about it enough.
From: billp@deepspace.Eng.Sun.COM (billp)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Router Alternative (Was propeller)
Date: 26 Aug 92 21:16:04 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Mt. View, Ca.
NNTP-Posting-Host: deepspace.east.sun.com

In article <1992Aug26.205052.21434@adobe.com> bennett@adobe.com writes:
>Ed Clarke writes
>> Use a shaper instead.  The Delta light duty version ...
>
>Is a "light-duty" shaper with a 1/2" spindle really any safer than a  
>"heavy-duty" router with a 1/2" collet if you've got the two machines turning  
>at the same rpm? 
>
>Also, I've read that the router has the advantage that the cutter is under the  
>work whereas usually shaper cutters are over the work. With the cutter under  
>the work you can lift the wood slightly without increasing the danger (or  
>ruining the workpiece).


Most shapers I've seen (can't vouch for the newer Deltas) have motors that
are wired to rotate in either direction.  THis way you can take the shaper
cutter and place it on the spindle so that it cuts the bottom of the 
panel.  I have a smaller Tiawanese shaper that came with this capability.
If you do use raised panel shaper cutters I'd recommend that you buy one
of the Delta Lexan safety gizmos that mounts on the spindle above the 
cutter.  It's about 6" in diameter and it's on a ball bearing mount.  It
helps keep your fingers well out of the way of the cutter.

----------------------------------

--
Bill Pittore - SunSelect, a Sun Microsystems Inc. Business
Billerica, MA 01821

bill.pittore@sun.com	(508) 671-0310
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: wedge@bnr.ca (Rick Wedge)
Subject: Incra or Leigh?
Keywords: router, jigs, incra, leigh
Reply-To: wedge@bnr.ca (Rick Wedge)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 92 20:49:01 GMT

With all the posts about the Incra jig, I'm wondering if that is the most 
popular jig out there.  Is anybody using the Leigh dovetail jig?  How does
it compare to the Incra?  I think it's a bit more expensive, is it worth it? 

Rick Wedge
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Bottom Line-Which Table Saw Is Best?
From: <DMEJJ@CUNYVM.BITNET>
Date: Thursday, 3 Sep 1992 15:17:33 EDT
Organization: City University of New York/ University Computer Center

We have all heard alot recently about different saws, different companies,
and so on.  Let's concentrate on on three, Delta, Grizzly, and Powermatic
(the big ticket item) cabinet saws.  I've heard good and bad about all three.
I would like to hear from those of you that have one of these saws.  The good
points and the bad points.  I know that we may have done this before, but we
never really came to any conclusion as to who makes the best saw.  As you may
have already figured out, I am getting closer and closer to replacing my Sears
saw. When enough people respond I will try too post the general results.
Dan Schlissel
From: paulw@hpspdla.spd.HP.COM (Paul Welch)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 21:02:57 GMT
Subject: Re: CAREFUL WITH THAT PROPELLER!!!!
Organization: HP Palo Alto Fabrication Center
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

WOW.   3 1/2 inches in diameter on a router?  I don't think I'd want to
be in the same room, or even in an adjacent one!  I have used panel
raising cutters on my shaper, and yes, they are much more tame if you
take several passes.  The real trick, however, is to do as much wood
removal as posssible with the table saw, and just make the final pass
with the panel raising bit.  I sure hope you have a decent size 
collet and shaft on that set-up!

Good Luck; be carefull

PW

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stevenj@microsoft.com (Steven Johnson)
Subject: Re: advice on finishing dining table
Date: 25 Aug 92 16:24:49 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp.
Distribution: na

In article <5071@dove.nist.gov>, wack@ariel.ncsl.nist.gov (John Wack) writes:
> 
> Since I mentioned Moser, I'll add my two cents worth while I'm posting --
> probably few can afford his prices, but his catalog is great for ideas
> and a fair number of the pieces are shown with measured drawings.  While
> his designs are Shaker-inspired as opposed to reproductions, I find that
> the pieces have a rather quiet elegance to them.  His finishing technique
> involves several coats of danish oil or boiled linseed (why one and not
> the other I don't know) followed by light sanding and two coats of paste
> wax.  This seems rather light for table tops, but when they cost ~2-3K,
> I doubt whether you'd really want to eat off of them!
> 

FYI:  WoodShop News (the trade rag) had an articel a month or two ago on Moser
suing other shops to protect his "copyrighted" designs.  I'm sure you
don't have to worry as a private woodworker making something for your
own use, but just don't mention the fact that you copied a Moser piece
to anyone connected with that company!
From: lettang@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Frank Lettang)
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 05:25:08 GMT
Subject: Is this a good saw?
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

Does anyone have any opinions about the RYOBI BT3000 table saw?  I'm
just starting to look for a saw and wondering what people think about
this model.  It seems to have some features that make accurate cutting
easier.
	Thanks
From: coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM (Chip Coffin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Walker-turner
Date: 27 Aug 1992 21:03:37 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems
Distribution: world
Reply-To: coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: surfin

I just purchased a walker-turner 6" jointer.  It's got about
a 3' length, with moveable infeed and outfeed tables, a rabbetting
table, and a fence that moves vertically, horizontally, and at angles
in either direction.

I feel really lucky to have found it, and been the first to get to it.

I paid $95 for it.

Does anyone know where I might possibly get parts?

The rack and pinion that adjust the fence seems to have some parts missing.
I can't mentally re-consruct how exactly it is supposed to work.  The
pinion is free from the knob that would turn it (I would expect them
to be fixed) and there is no obvious way to lock the fence solidly in place,
WRT its angle. (there is a big threaded bar that could be tightened, but
this would not be for *normal* operation)

Do any of you know this model, and (stretching here) have a users 
manual or picture of it that would show me (fax) how the fence adjustment
works?

many thanks,

chip

Fax # 415 336 2423

From: ashen@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Claude Ashen)
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1992 00:45:16 GMT
Subject: Re: fence suggestions?
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Rosa, CA
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

The October 1992 issue of American Woodworker (yes it is allready out)
has a short artical on aftermarket fences.  It containes breef descriptions
of the following fences;

Biesemeyer Model 50
Vega Model 50
Delta Unifence 34-897
Excalibur TT45-R50-L12
Paralok 2
Accufence

              Price   Rip    Rip     Install
Fence         (US)    Right  Left   on Unisaw  locks on
============  ======  =====  =====  =========  ==================
Vega          242.50   50     8       1 hr     front rail only
Biesemeyer    345.00   50    12       2 hrs    front rail only
Unifence      410.00   52     8.75    1 hr     front rail only
Excalibur     399.00   52    14       3 hrs    front & rear rails
Paralok       350.00   52    14       4 hrs    front & rear rails
Accufence     249.00   32    28       4 hrs    front & rear rails

Claude.
From: lakia@ipact.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Ceder siding crack repair
Date: 2 Sep 92 17:15:10 CDT
Organization: IPACT, Valparaiso IN

I need to repair the ceder siding on my house where it has
cracked (actually done by the contractor slobs).  The 
building wrap exposed and I need to fill up to 1/4 inch
cracks in a few places.

My question is what type of filler should I use?  


Thanks

Earl Lakia			Email:  LAKIA@IPACT.COM
IPACT Inc.			Voice:  219-464-7212
260 South Campbell		FAX:    219-462-5387
Valparaiso, IN   46383
From: scampbe1@metz.une.edu.au (Stephen Campbell)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Plans for Food Dehydrator
Date: 1 Sep 92 03:41:31 GMT

I'm interested in building a food dehydrator from scratch. I would be
glad to here from anyone who has attempted such a project so I acn
swap some ideas and plans.


Steve


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Steve Campbell				|	Lead Analyst
scampbe1@metz.une.edu.au		|	MIS Unit
					|	University of New England
					|	Armidale, New South Wales
					|	Australia.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,rec.autos.tech
From: adb@herboid.uucp (Anthony DeBoer)
Subject: Re: Air Compressor Wisdom
Organization: Linda's Dragon Memorial Society
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 04:02:59 GMT

Steven Bellovin <smb@ulysses.att.com> writes:
>In article <BtJFHK.1I4.2@cs.cmu.edu>, br@cs.cmu.edu (Bill Ross) writes:
>> 
>>     I got a wonderful, huge old compressor at a garage sale.
>
>I recall reading that old compressors should be inspected and
>pressure-tested, ...
>Anyway, the danger is supposedly rust formation on the inside of the
>tank.  True, in folks experience?  Where does one bring a compressor to
>be inspected?  ...

I'm not sure this is 100% relevant to this type of tank, but I do know all
the requirements for SCUBA tanks (which, at 3000 psi, are perhaps a bit
more stringent):

The one federal requirement is for a hydrostatic test every five (5)
years.  This involves a testing station filling the tank with water and
pumping it up to 5/3's its working pressure (ie. 5000 psi in a 3000
psi-rated tank) and testing for tank elasticity as the pressure is applied
and released.  Water is used because it is incompressable and doesn't
cause a huge explosion if the tank fails the test catastrophically.  Now,
I've been told that this test is derived from the ones used on steam
locomotive boilers (which caused a lot of grief when they burst) and that
originally it tied to pressure vessels being used in commerce and that
SCUBA tanks are included primarily because we take them around by car, so
this may or may not apply to stationary tanks at all.

The other requirement, which is a non-legislative industry standard, is
that SCUBA tanks get an annual visual inspection.  This basically just
involves the tester dumping all the pressure, unscrewing the valve, and
taking a look inside.  The main bad thing being looked for is evidence of
rust (although allegedly a rat was found in somebody's tank once, and must
have been there since the previous year's inspection [yuck]).  There are a
few other things they look for too.  The easiest way to see inside is to
have a small 12V bulb on a length of speaker wire or similar light
2-conductor, slide it inside the tank, and then look through the same
hole.  This sort of examination you could probably do on a air-tool tank
yourself, assuming there's a suitable port that unscrews.
-- 
Anthony DeBoer                       | Why watch TV, when Netnews provides
adb@herboid.uucp | adb@geac.com      | 100% of your daily requirement for
uunet!geac!herboid!adb               | trivia and meaningless entertainment?
From: rhaar@albert.cs.gmr.com (Bob Haar)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: CAREFUL WITH THAT PROPELLER!!!!
Date: 27 Aug 92 22:10:07 GMT
Reply-To: rhaar@albert.cs.gmr.com
Organization: G.M. Research Labs

In article 6512@adobe.com, bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds) writes:
|>Bob Haar writes
|>> ... If all the curves are convex, you can still "raise" 
|>> the panel with the vertical bits.
|>
|>It would be difficult to keep the bit perpendicular to the tangent along the 
|>curve. For the ogee bit profiles, the more you vary, the worse the result. 
|>Plus, there's the additional difficulty that the opening in the fence becomes
|>the means by which depth of cut is controlled. Sounds tricky to me.
|>
It shouldn't be any more difficult than any edge routing operation
whith a curved edge. (I would plan on a number of passes, taking a deeper
cut each time.

AS I think about it more, I would probably want to guide attached to the
fence "wall" with a guide pin sticking down over the bit. This would 
act like an inverted-pin-router. 

|>
|>> But I think I would do this with the router mounted in the
|>> mortising table (that I built from the WoodSmith plans) rather than
|>> in a router table. That way the router, bit, and work piece are
|>> all horizontal and the workpiece has good support from the table.
|>
|>But, unless you're willing to cut a recess in the table for the router bit 
|>you'll end up with the work being sandwiched between the table and the router 
|>bit, which is potentially more dangerous and error-prone.

Yes. But I already have a notch in the mortising table so I can cut
tenons as well as mortises. I have also used this to make finger joints.



---
	Robert Haar               InterNet : rhaar@gmr.com 
	Computer Science Dept., G.M. Research Laboratories
DISCLAIMER: Unless indicated otherwise, everything in this note is
personal opinion, not an official statement of General Motors Corp.


Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-VMS-To: IN%"WOODWORK%IPFWVM.BITNET@pucc.Princeton.EDU"
MIME-version: 1.0
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 1 Sep 1992 08:14:21 -0800
From:         RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM
Subject:      Re: Plans for Food Dehydrator
X-To:         WOODWORK%IPFWVM.BITNET@pucc.Princeton.EDU

Hi Steve,

I build a dehyderator from scratch some number of years ago. It was almost
my first wood working project but it came out pretty well. I think I can
still find the plans. I've got a 2nd set of plans that I haven't built. I
look for them too.

The one I built was basicaly a partical board box with removable shelvs
(wood frame & fiber glass window screen), a heating coil and fan in the bottom
and a thrumostat in the top.

The home built one worked very well (although not as well as the store bought
one I have now).

I'll send the plans along when I find them. The most dificult part about the
one I built was getting hold of a thurmostat to controll the heater (115 vac,
7 amp, 100-160 f range (110 - 145 would work).

                        Good luck

                        Ron Tye
From: betz@pinecrest.nsc.com (Gary Betz)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: CAREFUL WITH THAT PROPELLER!!!!
Date: 28 Aug 92 16:40:44 GMT
Organization: National Semiconductor Corporation

In article <25AUG92.07707801.0008.MUSIC@NMUMUS>, FABY@NMUMUS.BITNET (FABY000) writes:
|> From what I have read the large panel raising bits should not be used
|> with fixed speed routers.  I believe the recommended limit is 1.5 inches
|> diameter for the bit.  If one calculates the speed of the tip of the bit
|> it is moving very fast.  I would stop using the bit until I obtained a
|> variable speed router in order to slow the bit.  Roger Barry

On the subject of variable speed for routers, I purchased a Bosch 3HP
plunge router before Bosch introduced their variable speed model and
would like to make it variable speed. I've seen a couple of variable
speed controls on the market. Any experiences with these units,
particularly with higher amperage routers?

Gary Betz
From: trifid@agora.rain.com (Roadster Racewerks)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Another dissaster(Was- Maybe YOU can learn from MY mistake)
Date: 31 Aug 92 09:50:07 GMT
Article-I.D.: agora.BtuDzq.IBx
Distribution: world, usa, na
Organization: Open Communications Forum



If it had been hot weather before the WD-40 "blew" on you, remember, spray
cans can develop too much pressure to hold, in warm weather.

I think the "ickiest" instance of this I remember is a friend in High School
who had a can of shaving creme blow up in his locker... UGH!

Suze
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mmf@evolving.com (Mark Frazier)
Subject: Re: CAREFUL WITH THAT PROPELLER!!!!
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 13:55:19 GMT
Distribution: world, na, usa
Organization: Evolving Systems, Inc.
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4

boykin@gte.com (Joseph Boykin) writes:
: In article <1992Aug27.160551.829@adobe.com>, bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds) writes:
: |> Mount the router upside down in a table. It's a lot safer. When hand held, 
: |> riding along the edge of a board, more than half the router's weight is not 
: |> over the wood, so it's easy to tip the router - which can be dangerous.
: 
: I won't argue against the merits of a router table -- I definately
: prefer one to hand-holding a router.  However this posting, and a bunch
: of private email I've recieved in the past week has me confused.
: 
: Why is it that so few people seemed to have figured out that
: you can use another piece of wood parallel to the one you are
: edge routing whose sole job is to support the "other half" of the
: router?  Not only does this make things safer, but it also
: provides a better cut since you are pretty much guaranteed
: that you won't accidentally angle the router.

Actually, this is almost the same as making a LARGE subbase for your router,
which is what I did. THis allows you to get a larger surface area riding
on top the workpiece, and it becomes easy to control router and keep it
balanced. I didn't mention it specifically because it seemed rather obvious.
But it's becoming quite clear that you aren't allowed to leave out any details
on the net, lest ye be pounced upon.

Another approach, documented in FWW a few months back, and specifically designed
for this problem, is to make large box jigs which the router subbase rides on.
You have to make the box correctly (and accurately), but after you've done that,
you can be assurred of stability with large bits.

MMF