HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: Solid Lifters?
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 93 01:03:05 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Monday, Jan 11 20:03:01
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>  *Real* roller cams are all solid - nobody grinds anything good for the
> usual OEM hydraulic goobers.

Crower makes their own hydraulic roller lifters, and I bet they'd be glad
to grind whatever you need to to use with them.  Of course, running
any type of hydraulic lifters with a "real big" race cam is kinda
senseless, imho (hydraulic lifters mainly exist to reduce maintenance,
from what I understand, and huge cams should rarely find their
way into low maintenance vehicles).  

> ----------
> Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)


-- 
Jon Lusky
lusky@gnu.ai.mit.edu

 79 Rx-7 12A/Holley 4bbl
 67 Camaro/350/4spd (under construction)
 89 Jeep Wrangler/258 (currently self destructing)

----------
Posted by: emory!gnu.ai.mit.edu!lusky
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Oxygen Sensors
Date: Fri, 08 Jan 93 21:48:13 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Friday, Jan 08 16:48:10
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 I played with the comatose 3-wire sensor and a 1-wire last night; the 1-
wire acted as expected with the propane torch, but the three-wire was 
pretty dead; it produced a small negative (!) (?) voltage. 

 All sensors, 1,2,3 wire, are supposed to work the same, right? 0-1V?
Are there any types (UEGO aside) that require active drive or anything
in use today?

 Finally, I'd be interested in knowing more about the force voltage, measure
current mode of operation and in finding a way to calibrate that mode for
true AFR readings. Is there a method of calibration, or is there a source for
AFR-vs-current curves? It'd be neat to rig up a fixture which could feed a
calibrated A/F mixture (like an airflow and fuel flow meter with a combustion
chamber) and extract the A/F transfer curve.

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Posted by: emory!mlb.semi.harris.com!jws (James W. Swonger)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: Mo Compression 
Date: Sat, 09 Jan 93 04:12:12 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Friday, Jan 08 23:12:06
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> Date:  Fri, 8 Jan 93 14:59 EST
> From:  hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
> 
>
>          I wonder why Detroit and Bowling Green can't get together with 
>          Big Oil and the EPA and start producing high compression engines 
>          again?
>          
>          With proper design, higher compression gives more power and uses 
>          less fuel.  What about mass producing oxygenates, like MTBE, to 
>          raise octane rates of premium to 100?  This would result in 
>          cleaner, more efficient, and more powerful engines.  Who would 
>          lose?  We would probably pay higher prices, but we already have 
>          the lowest rates in the world.
>          
>          Which of my premises is incorrect?
>          
>          Eric
>           

>[In one of the textbooks I have on fuels, the author discusses this.
>He says that the EPA and the oil companies have done an economic analysis
>and have determined that the lowest overall cost works out for fuel
>in the 89-92 octane region.  The analysis balances the added cost
>at the refinery for making higher octane gas vs the added economy
>higher octane permits through higher compression.  This is the
>real reason octane went down along with the lead content.  Lead 
>was a practically zero cost octane booster so the balance was
>shifted toward higher octane and higher efficiency.  JGD]
>----------
>Posted by: ERIC WEBB 919-541-7896 <emory!epamail.epa.gov!WEBB.ERIC>
> 


The problem I have with emissions and high compression (or most any
performance enhancement) is that I can always get all but one of the
emissions in spec.  When running high compression, the HC and CO is low,
showing good efficiency, but I always have NOx out of sight. So then I
start backing off the timing and using the EGR to "cool" the combustion,
and the HCs start to go up.  It is much easier to control with the EFI
systems than a carb, but it is still a problem.  I wish I could get alcohol
blended fuels out here (in N.H), but no such luck.  I just may pull into
the emissions test with a tank full of ethanol and a re-programmed ECU,
but it would be frowned upon when I pull into the local gas station for
the fuel I use 364 days out of the year.


	-- Dan

P.S.  I understand all (well, those that affect me :-) of the
advantages/disadvantages of using alcohol.  Been doing it for years with
some success.  So, I don't want to start a thread of "You shouldn't try
this", but alternative fuel discussions are always fun.  I just wish I
could find a cheap supply around here to continue my experiments.

----------
Posted by: Dan Malek <emory!widener!westford.ccur.com!dan>
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re:  Casting Numbers
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 93 02:19:22 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Monday, Jan 11 21:19:17
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Speaking of casting numbers, does anyone know of a good reference to look
up casting numbers with?  I was at World of Wheels at the Bayside Expo Center
in Boston Saturday night, and saw a few books full of them at the swaps, but
the ones I saw were ridiculously priced (plus, I can't remember their names
now either. :-( )  Any clues?

-- Steve

   Steven T McClure     '84 GPZ 750 Turbo pilot          stm0@gte.com
GTE Government Systems         DoD #0425              
  Needham, Ma. 02194            /*  Insert standard disclaimer here. */
Beta software: 'beta than nothing, and that's usually all it is...

----------
Posted by: emory!gte.com!stm0 (Steven McClure)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: Spelling and GNs
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 93 02:39:39 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Monday, Jan 11 21:39:33
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          Ken, I only took the GN to the track once.  I didn't have any 
          slicks, but the 275s hooked up pretty well.  I had just put in 
          the new heads and valves, a bigger turbo, and a bigger stainless 
          exhaust.  The temperature was about 65, and humidity was low.
            
          My first couple of passes, I was slow off the lights.  The times 
          started in the low 13s and dropped to the low 12s  (I was the 
          weak link - not the car or conditions).  I borrowed some sticky 
          spray and decided to launch with higher boost and hope the rear 
          end didn't pass me.  The first pass it did. :-)  I didnt have a 
          coil bag for the passenger side rear spring, so I borrowed about 
          50 lbs of ballast.  I nailed an 11.7 and quit while I was ahead.  
          
          I think with slicks and more experience, the GN would have run 
          consistant 11.5s.  Launching with the right amount of turbo boost 
          is real important.  Leave with not enough and the ETs drop.  
          Leave with too much, and you'll cross the finish line in any 
          number of attitudes.  Slicks should bump the initial boost.  I 
          could only start with 2 psi with street rubber.  What do slicks 
          allow, about 4 psi?
          
          Eric
            

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Posted by: ERIC WEBB 919-541-7896 <emory!epamail.epa.gov!WEBB.ERIC>
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: Televised Events #93-1
Date: Sat, 09 Jan 93 06:17:09 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Saturday, Jan 09 01:16:49
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	While we're on the subject of ludicrous speed and power on TV,
what in the world happened to "Motorcycle Madness" on MSG?  I haven't 
seen it for months now, and I can only watch my Brazilian GP tape so
many times.  Talk about insane:  500cc 4 cylinder 2stroke engines making
170bhp for a vehicle that weighs just over 300 pounds for a rider weighing
140 pounds or less on average.  We're talking less than 3 pounds/bhp here.
Pretty damn insane, especially when the rear end breaks loose in a turn.

	Sorry for the distraction.  I've been without my bikes for
months now with no foreseeable time or $$$ to fix them in the near future.
We now return you to your original amazing mix-n-match programming.

Later,
-- 
Chris BeHanna	DoD# 114          1983 H-D FXWG Wide Glide - Jubilee's Red Lady
behanna@syl.nj.nec.com	          1975 CB360T - Baby Bike
Disclaimer:  Now why would NEC
agree with any of this anyway?    I was raised by a pack of wild corn dogs.

----------
Posted by: emory!syl.nj.nec.com!behanna
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: screw in plugs
Date: Fri, 08 Jan 93 00:34:54 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Thursday, Jan 07 19:34:50
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-> Ford sells the replacement plugs for 302BOSS and other miscellaneous
-> engines. DOn't have the part number handy, but I can get it in the
-> morning.

 Please do!  Last I saw was a Ford parts bulletin from 1981, saying all
BOSS parts had been discontinued.


-> They are just large pipe plugs and you might be able to
-> get some at your local industrial plumbing shop.

 I can get pipe plugs, but not that size; standard piping sizes, besides
not being anywhere near their nominal size, don't appear to match up
well with anything else in the real world.  Also, the only available
plugs are enormous cast iron monstrosities with huge square lugs on the
outside.


-> I can't find a tap, period.

 Ditto.  To top it off, you need a bottom tap to keep from smacking the
cylinder wall.


 I can thread my own aluminum or iron plugs on the lathe if I have to,
but I would really like a commercial tap.  Hmm... I wonder if I could
use some conventional carbide thread inserts, mount them in a sorta
modified flycutter, and feed it in with a homemade tapping stand with
a leadscrew?  It'd work, but it'd be a lot of hassle.  No wonder even
the NASCAR boys just rivet the damned plugs.
                            

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: RE: WOT Chips
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 93 21:54:52 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Monday, Jan 11 16:54:49
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Somehow I missed the beginning of this thread, so forgive me.

> Now try an experiment:  pull the aftermarket chip and put the original
>chip back in.  Once the block learn reprograms the data cells, I bet you
>won't be able to tell any difference at all between it and the fancy
>chip.

This may not be true for all ECM's but some have the ability to "learn" the
programs. I've seen this many times while switching chips back and forth in my
GN. If you put in a "wild" chip, it may take a 1/4 mile pass or to for the
computer to "learn" the limits of the chip/vehicle. And when you switch back to
the stock chip, the car will still exhibit some of the characteristics of the
"wild" chip.

>and then the knock sensor and O2 sensor brought things right
>back to the same identical curve as the stock chip.

If you don't have enough octane to support the requirements of the new advance,
the car can't take advantage of it. At WOT the ECM should ignore the O2 sensor
and go with the programmed fuel curve. But if the stock chip maxed out the
injectors, it may not be any different. Many times what the aftermarket chips
will do is to start the "fuel enrichment" portion of the fuel curve at a lower
setting of the TPS. So you get into the fat part of the curve earlier.

Ron

mellum@skyler.mavd.honeywell.com



----------
Posted by: "Mellum Ron" <emory!mn15-gw.mavd.honeywell.com!mellum_ron>
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Detonation - how to fix it?
Date: Fri, 08 Jan 93 06:09:58 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Friday, Jan 08 01:09:52
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G'day all,
 
A friend is having a problem with an EFI Ford 4.0 with an unknown
spec cam & high compression - it is detonating badly. The motor
he knows nothing of except that it is far from stock. While running
on unleaded petrol (rating of around 92) the knocking is incessant.
While running on premium unleaded (rating of 95) it is not as bad
but still unsatisfactory. No matter what is done to the knock sensors
(replacement et al) nothing can be done, it seems, to the engine
without adding something to the fuel to suppress the detonation.
Consequently he settled on trying to inject water/metholated spirits
into it.
 
Before making the modifications - pressure sensitive switch to start
the injection, injector etc - it was suggested that he try Toluene,
available through Ampol & Shell as Toluol (I think?). This would then
not only stop the detonation but increase the performance of the car.
 
So here is the cruncher: has anybody used the stuff to control
detonation? Apparently it was used by F1 cars back in the turbo
era. Is it mixed into the fuel at fill up time or is it injected
separately from a separate holding tank like water injection?
 

----------
Posted by: Mark Jose <emory!werple.apana.org.au!speednut>
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: Watts Link
Date: Sat, 09 Jan 93 00:10:26 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Friday, Jan 08 19:10:23
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->         Cheating: Without cracking off the cylinder heads, I couldn't
->         tell the difference among 305, 327, 350, 383, 400 engines
->         (provided the last two were internally balanced).

 You can judge the stroke by taking a plug out and using a piece of
wire, but that won't help with a 305 and 350.  On '86 and later 360
blocks, on the driver's side behind the cylinder head, on the
bellhousing flange, is cast "5.7 L", and presumably 5.0 L for the 305,
but it's generally hard to see down there, particularly with power
brakes.

 Looks like the scrutineers would have a problem.  Of course, the SCCA
doesn't see anything wrong with requiring you to rip your engine apart
to *prove* you're legal, since they assume you're guilty until proven
innocent.  Real nice, trying to find offbeat parts in some desolate part
of Kansas on a Sunday.  Just another reason I don't run SCCA any more.
                                                       

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Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Chevy parts mix and match (Was: Ford vs Chevy bashing)
Date: Wed, 06 Jan 93 21:27:12 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Wednesday, Jan 06 16:27:09
X-Sequence: 3206
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-> This portion of Dave's post got me thinking...  I have a 305 that I
-> would like to build with one goal in mind.   *TORQUE* and lots of it.
-> I need to keep the displacement down as much as possible to keep the
-> engine fuel stingy.  The operating range would be from idle to about
-> 4000 rpm tops.

 How about a 329 the hard way?  3.73 305 bore, and a 3.75 stroke 400
crank.  You'd have to have the mains cut to the standard large journal
diameter, but they do that all the time for 383s.  At least one company
is making their own 383 cranks now too.

 Now you might ask, "Where would I get pistons for such an alien and
bizarre combo as a quarter-inch-stroked 305?"  Why, your friendly TRW
source, just ask for good old part number L2468F.  You'll need to use
the 400 rods as well, and the harmonic balancer and flexplate (though
someone does sell a bolt-on counterweight for a standard 305 flexplate).
TRW lists the conversion in their catalog.

 With 3.75x3.75, you'd have all the torque you could want.
                                 

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Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Gasoline and about last nig
Date: Thu, 07 Jan 93 02:54:15 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Wednesday, Jan 06 21:54:10
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-> Formula #1 - Toulene
-> =============================
-> R+M/2.........114
-> Cost...........$2.50/gal

 Thanks for the post, Ken!  I did notice your costs on toluene and
xylene were significantly lower than the ones John posted a few days
ago.  Have you found a cheaper source, or does the price reflect buying
in bulk?

[Definitely bulk pricing.  Things get amazingly cheap when packaged 
in 55 gal drums.  JGD]

-> This product is advertised as "octane booster with cleaning agent
-> *and* lubricating agent!".  Diesel fuel or kerosene can be
-> substituted for mineral

 Like the Saturday Night Live skit about the foamy stuff that was "a
dessert topping AND a floor wax!" ?   <grin>


-> using methanol.  In a word, don't.  It attacks zinc and magnesium
-> very rapidly.  Guess what is in carburators and other fuel system

 Does yer generic injector solenoid have any parts that can get gnawed
by methanol?

[Probably not.  JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: 302 rev. limiter
Date: Thu, 07 Jan 93 19:43:02 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Thursday, Jan 07 14:42:58
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(spring spacers for rockers)

 Older Buick engines (up to ~ 1969) used springs as well; the rockers rode on
a pressurized rail and the springs snugged them against a machined face on
the rail pillars. Perhaps the spring tension was intended to maintain a degree
of oil pressure against the side leakage, becoming a sort of cheesy 
secondary oil pressure regulator at the top end, or maybe GM was just too
cheap to put 50 cents extra into the valvetrain. 

 Speaking of secondary regulators, does anybody use alternate oil pressure
regulation schemes instead of the source bypass valve right by the pump?
Really, at high oil demands the source bypass scheme has little relation
to the pressures at remote locations. In the engine that occupies my dreams
(Buick 430) there is a tortuous oiling system, a pressurized top end and fairly
large main bearings. When this engine spins up, or ages, a pump limited to
say 60psi head pressure could be holding 20psi down the line. I'd love to
jack the head relief pressure up to, say, 100PSI for safety blowoff but also
install 3 remote relief valves, one for the far end of the main journal
feed and one up top for each of the rails, and set them to crack at 60PSI.
A high pressure/high volume pump with a bored-out (or bypassed) pickup run
would feed it all, unless somebody leaves me money to buy a dry sump setup
with. 

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Posted by: emory!mlb.semi.harris.com!jws (James W. Swonger)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: Re: Geof Evans
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 93 19:59:08 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Tuesday, Jan 12 14:59:04
X-Sequence: 3395
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By law the seller must provide a smog certificate to the buyer in California
and the new buyer may have to pay a 300 buck tax to California if the car was
not originally certified for sale in the "Golden State."  If this be the case,
people may be reluctant to purchase a non California licenses car.  It could
be more difficult but then again depending on the sale price.  If they are 
close to the border with TJ, lots of these cars get snapped up locally in
San Diego because Mexico doesn't give a damn about such things.
Mike Brattland

----------
Posted by: emory!nprdc.navy.mil!brattlan (CDR Michael Brattland)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: WOT Chips
Date: Fri, 08 Jan 93 22:50:09 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Friday, Jan 08 17:50:05
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 Now try an experiment:  pull the aftermarket chip and put the original
chip back in.  Once the block learn reprograms the data cells, I bet you
won't be able to tell any difference at all between it and the fancy
chip.

>Unfortunately, my friend and his '91 moved up North. :-(

 A major name chip maker borrowed my friend Jay's '90 Corvette to do
some development worth with.  Rented a drag strip and everything.  With
back to back runs there was NO difference.  Examining the data output
with the GM Tech 1 analyzer later, we found no difference in the final
spark or fuel curves, though the corrections were different.  Basically,
the aftermarket chip slammed the spark full advance and started richer
than stock, and then the knock sensor and O2 sensor brought things right
back to the same identical curve as the stock chip.

>Interesting.  I wish we had gone to the track.  The chip claimed WOT
>only operation.  Is this the same as WFO?  If so, I think I know what you
>mean :-)  We were concerned about detonation at WOT, so we added gobs of
>MTBE while playing with the chip.  He had planned to use the chip only for
>bracket racing, but never did that I know.  Yep, the only real ways to 
>check the chip change are with a dyno or on the track.  Do you think our
>use of this type of chip should have increased power (assuming the chip
>maker loaded the correct microcode)?
>
>That reminds me that one day I would like to own a water brake to test
>engines.  I'm afraid to ask the cost...but does anyone know?
>
>Regards,
>Eric

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Posted by: ERIC WEBB 919-541-7896 <emory!epamail.epa.gov!WEBB.ERIC>
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod