HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: x3212jng@uflorida.cis.ufl.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: how hard to blow or fix subs?
Date: 9 Apr 92 14:50:02 GMT
Article-I.D.: uflorida.35060
Reply-To: x3212jng
Followup-To: how har to blow or fix subs?
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Florida  (ufl.edu)
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.3-4

In article <69835@ut-emx.uucp>, baylor@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Baylor) writes...
> 
>	I'm sure many of you know this, but how hard is it blow
>up a subwoofer, and how expensive/easy is it to fix?
>	
>	I'm thinking of buying two kicker 12s and putting a odin
>(2x75) on them. I like it loud, but not like many of my freinds.
>Many peeople i have know of have blown fosgate (punch) 15s and
>some other brands, but i do believe they sit in parking lots and
>try to out do each other to the equipments demise (they mostly
>have punch 45s if it matters).
> 
>	If i buy something, i'm not sure i can afford to have it fixed.
>If it helps, i currently have a Fosgate 10" (just one; oh the shame :(  )
> and have had it for maybe a year, and have never blown it at the 
>levels i listen to it, and i don't know that i'll listen to the new
>system any louder (the 10 is departing and the the power 100 i have
>will just do the regular speakers, ie 5" or under).
> 
>	So should i start worrying and saving up because blowing is
>inevitable or will i be safe as long as i'm (somewhat) carefull? How
>much damage can they take?
>-----------------------------------------------------------------------
>Baylor Wetzel    

I have 2 12" series 1 drivers - old style- that i have abused to my
best abilities. I had the drivers in 5 different sealed inclosures,
a iosoload design, a third order design, and a six order design.
The drivers are said to hangle 80watts cont.avg. But that doesn't 
mean they will handle that in a ported box, or any different type of box.
However, I put over 130 watts to each of them in a sealed box, a ran it
at full power for months, over 1 hour spans each day. Then I ran the 
woofers in the ported inclosure for several months at 100watts. Basically
I tortured the woofers. I'm using them now after 2 years, and they sound 
as good as when I first purchased them. I might add these inclosures weren't
perfect and distortion was rampant. Yet the woofers are still tight. And
now in a factory box, they sound excellent even with 100+watts each.

I have never seen anyone blow a rockford woofer, using a sealed box with 
more than 1.5 times its rated power. I know 40 people at the store I 
go to that have this power to a woofer. 

Also, you maybe able to bridge 2 channels the power 100 for bass,
 and run 2ohm the rest of your 5's for on the other two channels.
just a thought for competition 0-100 class.

mick
- have you ever seen a toyota corrolla Fx putting out 130db?
- coming soon to a competition near you in the 0-100 watt class.
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: jreiser@scott.skidmore.edu (jason reiser)
Subject: Re: Speaker Connections
Organization: Skidmore College, Saratoga Springs NY
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 03:07:02 GMT

There are a couple of ways to check which wire is which, the most
obvious is the use of a continuety (sp?) meter.  However, the easiest
way that will not require uninstallation of speakers is this...
	Grab a friend whose sole job will be to identify if a speaker
cone moves out or in on your command.  Grab a pair of wires that are
ready to be connected to the radio.  Touch one wire to the (+)
terminal of a D cell battery and the other to the (-) side.  If the
speaker cone moves outward, the wire connected to (+) is (+) and the
other is (-).  If the cone moves in, the wire connected to the (+)
battery terminal is (-) and the other is (+).  Of course, if nothing
happens, then the two wires you are testing are not connected to the
speaker.
	Best of luck!
				- Jason Reiser
 
 
  /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\
  \                                                           /
  / Jason Reiser  Skidmore College, Saratoga Springs, NY 12866 \
  \            E-Mail at jreiser@scott.skidmore.edu            /
  /                    Or Call 518-581-7079                    \
  \                                                            /
   \/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/
From: stanbach@apple.com (Francis Stanbach)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: DSP for automatic Volume Control
Date: 4 Apr 92 21:17:55 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Apple Computer

Does anyone manufacture a car stereo with a DSP that automatically
changes the volume of the music depending on the noise inside the car.
You install a microphone near the headrest and the system plays music
through the speakers to adjust focus.

Any info will be appreciated.
Frank
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: vjw40842@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Van John Woods)
Subject: fosgate sub info
Summary: fosgate
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1992 05:55:16 GMT

	Hi.  I need some specs for a pair of Fosgate 10" subs (model # sp104
I think).  Also, I would like to know how to build a seventh order box with
the program PerfectBox (uploaded from CICA).  Specifically, how do you 
figure the dimensions of the internal chamber in a three chamber setup with
the subs facing each other?  Any answers are greatly appreciated.


Van Woods
email vjw40842@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu

Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: goodnuff@lamp.Princeton.EDU (David W. Goodnuff)
Subject: cassette adaptation needed
Originator: news@ernie.Princeton.EDU
Organization: Princeton University
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 16:16:26 GMT



Hello, forgive me if this has been discussed before.
I just got a new car that has a pretty good radio.
Unfortunately, it does not have a cassette deck.  Does anyone have any
ideas of any way that I could hook up my walkman to the car speakers?
I guess that I would have to go inside and manually attach the headphone
output to the speakers... Thanks. (email replies welcome)


-=|=- -=|=- -=|=- -=|=- -=|=-
-David Goodnuff-
goodnuff@phoenix.princeton.edu
From: gtb6038@zeus.tamu.edu (BILES, GREG THOMAS)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Speaker Connections
Summary: Does it matter if you connect the +ve lead from the amp to the -ve inpu
Keywords: Polarity
Date: 17 Apr 92 05:10:00 GMT
Organization: Texas A&M University, Academic Computing Services
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <sharif.703298987@yacht>, sharif@ee.fit.edu (Shahid Muhammad Sharif) writes...
>Does it matter if the speakers are connected with opposite polarity of the 
>speakers.  If it does how can I find out which lead is +ve and which one is
>-ve, because when I connected the system in my car I used the same colored
>cables for speaker connections.

Yes, it does!  The soudwaves will cancel each other out if the polarity is
opposite.  To find out which lead is positive on the speaker, just get a
C size battery and connect it accross the wires.  If the speaker moves out
then the the polarity of the speakers matches how you have it hooked up to 
the battery.  If it move in then it is just backwards.

Greg

Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: rlister@cti.com (Russell Lister)
Subject: Re: Aftermarket speakers in an 88 Dodge Daytona
Organization: Comprehensive Technologies Int., Inc.
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1992 15:34:58 GMT

HAMILTON@daq.semi.harris.com (Fred Hamilton) writes:


>I need to replace the stock speakers in my 88 Daytona.  The door
>speakers are 5 1/2", the rear are 5x7s.

>1)  Has anyone succesfully (and ELEGANTLY) installed 6 1/2" speakers in
>    the doors?  The Crutchfield catalog indicates that this is 
>    possible...

>2)  Any suggestions on good 5x7s, or can I use another size there as well?

>Thanks!

>-Fred

     I have a 85 Laser that I'm replacing the speakers on.  Crutchfields
     lists a 2-way and 3-way Pioneer speaker that is 5x7 and specificaly
     made for that that, it's under the special application speaker section
     of the auto audio catalog (it mentions the specific model in a footnote
     in the auto look up table as well).
     
     
-- 
==============================================================================
Calvin: "I've found some protest music for TODAY'S youth!  This stuff really 
         offends Mom and Dad!"
Hobbes (after listening a bit): "Easy Listening Muzak?"
Calvin: "I play it REAL quiet, too."
            
        - Bill Watterson's "Calvin and Hobbes", March 11, 1992 -
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Russ Lister  rlister@cti.com  -or-  {well connected systen}!uunet!cti1!rlister 
Comprehensive Technologies Int'l Inc., Arlington, VA
==============================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: mam28@cas.org ()
Subject: Anyone upgraded a 90 Pontiac GP?
Organization: Chemical Abstracts Service, Columbus, Ohio
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 14:41:28 GMT


I'd like to find any options available to upgrade
the existing sound without losing the steering wheel
controls.

I have replaced the rear speakers with better 6X9's.
It was only a small improvement over the Delco factory units.

I would like to find an interface to use line in/out connections
for the head unit and a diskman.

Helpful suggestions are requested....
-- 
mam28@cas.bitnet
All opinions expressed are my own.
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: news@sequent.com (News on Muncher)
Subject: active noise canceling (was: DSP for automatic Volume Control)
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems, Inc.
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 92 16:46:13 GMT

A year or two ago I read about a system installed in Lotus vehicles that
uses microphones and the car's speakers to listen to and cancel noise by
producing a trough for every peak, and vice versa.  This is calculated
in real time, so it has to use fast signal processing.  Of course it can
add music on top of the noise-canceling signal.  Has anyone heard about
this technology lately?

From what I understand of the DSP automatic volume control thread, the
DSP just uses a brute-force method of increasing the music's volume where
ever it encounters noise (trying to out-shout the noise), rather than
eliminating it.  (My understanding could flawed :-)
It this the best I can do unless I buy a Lotus?

-- Paul
Newsgroups: rec.audio
From: tonyb@juliet.ll.mit.edu ( Tony Berke )
Subject: Re: Cassette Decks for Recording from DAT
Organization: M.I.T. Lincoln Lab - Group 43
Date: 13 Apr 92 11:56:15

In article <1992Apr13.135609.12313@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu> prj@gamba.lcs.mit.edu (Paul R. Johnson) writes:

   I've started recording concerts for friends on my new DAT machine and
   want to make cassette copies for them.  My current cassette deck doesn't
   cut it.

I do the same thing, on a semi-pro level.  I bought a new deck last year
for recording proof copies for clients.  I tried to get away with Sony's
$400 (list) TCK650ES on the recommendation of a salesperson at Q audio
(across the street from you).  It sounded like dirt - about the same as
the 2-head Nakamichi LX-3 I was trying to replace.  I had already listened
to quit a few other decks (Aiwa, Teac, Nak's current models, etc.).  I
returned the 650ES back to Q and got the 850ES instead (which is what I'd
intended to buy in the first place).  $600 list, $400-$500 street price,
but now replaced by, I belive, the 870ES or something like that.

The 850ES can make a very convincing copy of a DAT of most any material
you're likely to throw at it.  It has HX pro, and, with a metal tape,
it has a pretty amazing S/N ratio even with Dolby B (it has C, but most
of my customers don't, so I don't use it much).

IMHO, it's a very good buy and completely nukes Nak's current offerings
in the same price range (street, not list).  Assuming the new model is
better, and not worse, I highly recommend it.

   I also may want to make multiple copies of a concert.  I'm distrustful of
   dual, "dubbing" decks, but are there any that make good copies at high speed

Yuck!


Tony Berke (tonyb@juliet.ll.mit.edu)
From: lstowell@pyrnova.pyramid.com (Lon Stowell)
Newsgroups: rec.audio
Subject: Re: I need advice on receiver-amplifier and CD player
Date: 16 Apr 92 03:30:56 GMT
Reply-To: lstowell@pyrnova.pyramid.com (Lon Stowell)
Organization: Pyramid Technology Corp., Mountain View, CA

In article <BUSSIERE.92Apr15140520@tohi.DMI.USherb.CA> luc.bussieres@dmi.usherb.ca writes:
>
>	I want to buy a receiver amplifier and a CD player, my budget
>is limited to under 900$ CAN. I want to a couple of store and they 
>offered me 4 different receiver-amplifier:
>
>	- a NAD 7240PE for 480$ CAN.
>	- a YAMAHA ???550 for 478$ CAN.
>	- a HARMAN KARDON ???3300 for 450$ CAN.
>	and a DENON for 460 $ CAN.
>
>	Which one should I buy? What are the pros and cons of each
>one?
>
   In that range, I would go for the NAD.  And also make sure to get
   reasonably efficient acoustic suspension speakers.  The bass EQ
   feature of the NAD can extend the lower bass down to about 25-30
   Hz with a 6-8" sealed box speaker.  You can also use a vented or
   ported, but only if the bass resonance is below that range (rare
   in that price range...)

   This assumes you want bang for buck.  You might prefer the bells
   and whistles of the Yamaha or Denon to the purist nature of the
   NAD.  I like HK, but in that price range, IMHO it is the last
   choice...the NAD will beat it for purist sound and the other two
   have more features.

>	
>	I have also look for a CD player but I don't know what to look
>for to compare the different models. Do I need to buy a good quality
>one ( 400$ CAN and more) or is the SONY CD player (200-300$ CAN) are
>good enough? What type of feature do a CD player need to have ?
>
    Buy one that won't make your ears bleed.  It is hard to beat a
    decent Sony for price/performance.  Spend the extra budget on
    getting the best speakers you can afford...you are more likely
    to notice the satisfaction/dollar.  
Newsgroups: rec.audio
From: fkrauthe@vlsilab.ece.uc.edu (Frank John Krautheim)
Subject: Infinity vs. Polk, Opinions Sought
Summary: which to buy?
Keywords: infinity polk speakers
Organization: Unversity of Cincinnati, ECE Dept
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1992 18:09:24 GMT

I am getting ready to purchase a major audio/video system with surrond 
and the works.  I have been researching speakers and have narrowed my
final choice down to two systes:

Infinity Reference 6's front main
Infinity Reference 2 center channel
Infinity Reference 1's rear surround

and

Polk RTA-15TL's front main
Polk CS-100 center channel speaker
Polk M3's/M4's (still unsure here) rear surround

I have listened to both systems and although there are subtle difference in
sound, I am still unsure which is better.  I am familiar with both companies'
reputations and quality.  I know people who own infinity and polk and they
say they wouldn't switch no matter what.

So I am soliciting opions and comments on anything from durability, sounds
quality, overall quality, asetics, etc.  Let me know what you think.  Price
is not really an issue, if it was the Infinity would be the definate choice 
(~ $500 cheaper), but it may be the deciding factor if everything else is 
equal.

Thanks in advance,
John

p.s.  These will be powered with a Yamaha RXV-1050 receiver (110 w f/c, 35 w 
rear).


--
			      ______________		   _
                              )_____________)     ________/ \________
   John Krautheim                       \\       (________   ________)	
				         \\         /   / \_/
   fkrauthe@thor.ece.uc.edu               \\_______/  _/ There's no intelligent 
   University of Cincinnati		 _/ ..  ...    \  life down here.
   Department of Computer Engineering    \_____________/   Beam me up Scotty.

--
			      ______________		   _
                              )_____________)     ________/ \________
   John Krautheim                       \\       (________   ________)	
				         \\         /   / \_/
Newsgroups: rec.audio
From: strong@tc.fluke.COM (Norm Strong)
Subject: Re: Low-Cost yet "audiophile" Amp Advice
Organization: John Fluke Mfg. Co., Inc., Everett, WA
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1992 16:19:46 GMT

In article <1992Apr14.112751.6456@ousrvr.oulu.fi> sancese@cs.unibo.it writes:
}
}Hi everybody!
}
}I'm looking for a low-cost yet "audiophile" integrated amplifier and I would like to hear from you, for your suggestions and experiences.
}
}Budget is a real constraint, let's say approximately $700, and the destination speakers are temporary, so I am free to choose (suggestions about how to interface the amp are welcome :-)
}The output power should run between 20W and 50W.

You've got the whole thing backwards.  First, decide what SPL you want
and where the system is to be located.  Then decide which speakers you
wish to buy.  Now--and only now--you will have some chance of choosing a
suitable amp for driving them to the desired level.  

If you go the other way, you may end up with an amp that won't drive the
speakers you eventually buy, either because the speaker impedance is too
low or too high for that amp, or--worst case--it's unstable with that
load!  In any event it may not have enough power to drive your chosen
speakers.  You don't buy a gun until you know what you're going to
shoot.

As an aside, I think it's shocking that speaker manufacturers take no
resposibility for recommending suitable amps for their speakers. 
-- 

Norm Strong  (strong@tc.fluke.com)
2528 31st S.   Seattle WA 98144   USA
Newsgroups: rec.audio
From: abrams@cs.columbia.edu (Steven Abrams)
Subject: Re: Opinions on Vandersteens?
Organization: Columbia University Department of Computer Science
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1992 17:15:24 GMT

One other man's opinion...

The Vandersteen 2's (2c, 2ci, 2ce, whatever) are great speakers for
the money.  They always sound musical, never harsh.   The bass is
full, and the speakers image very well.  The newer 2ce has more bass
extension than the older 2ci, due to a cabinet redesign, but no other
differences.  I own a pair of the older 2ci and love them.

I compared them to Theil, Apogee, Canton, Fried, Near, and many
speakers in the consumer domain (Mordant-Short, Advent, Klipsch, Kef,
Celestion), and found them to be the most musical and easiest to live
with.  The only speaker I did not listen to when shopping were
Magnaplanars, and some have told me this was a mistake. I don't think
so, mostly due to practical considerations.

The Vandy's have a warmth and sweetness to them that just sounds
right.   They do not mask detail, nor ar they
hyper-analytical-detailed.  For under $2000, they can't be beat.

For under $1000, the only speaker I recommend any more is the
Vandersteen 1B.  Man, what a speaker for 700 bucks.  Everything sounds
better on those Vandy's -- cheap-o mass market receivers even seem to
have some depth.  Those Vandys are a part of my recommended $1500
system. 

I haven't heard the Vandersteen 3 with compared to anything in their
class.  I will say that they have the same basic sonic signature as
the 2's, but much bigger, tighter, and more accurate bass, and more
transparency (the speakers, though larger, disappeared more easily).

Of course, your mileage may vary, but anyone looking for great
speakers for a great system on a budget should consider the Vandy's.  

~~~Steve
--
/*************************************************
 *
 *Steven Abrams             abrams@cs.columbia.edu
 *
 **************************************************/
#include <std/dumquote.h>
#include <std/disclaimer.h>
Organization: Little, if any.
X-Mac-Bust:   The Best Way To accelerate a Macintoy is at 9.8m/s^2
Date: Tuesday, 7 Apr 1992 21:18:18 EDT
From: Charles Fee <CXF111@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.audio
Subject: Re: Mail Order From Crutchfield
Distribution: usa
 <1992Apr7.230526.8392@news.nd.edu>

Crutchfield was rated really high (maybe #1) in Consumer Reports guide to
electronics mail order.  I can't remember when the issue was published..

I have ordered car and home audio equipment from Crutchfield, and they have
always been polite and generally knowledgeable, and I have never had a
problem with a return either.  They may be a little on the expensive side,
but they don't charge shipping for UPS ground, only a $2.00 per order
handling charge..
---
Chuck Fee
cxf111@psuvm.psu.edu
    'Un de ces jours, je vais vous couper en petits morceaux...'
                                       -Pink Floyd, One of These Days
Newsgroups: rec.audio
From: bosco@leland.Stanford.EDU (Eric Bosco)
Subject: Opinion on Cambridge Soundworks Ensemble
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 92 00:51:48 GMT

Hi, I'm think of changing my speakers to mostly to space and aesthetic 
considerations and I was looking into subwoofer-satellte systems. I 
wanted to know if anybody had any opinions on the Ensemble. Specifically:

	1- Is this a  good speaker system?
	2- What is the difference in sound between the Ensemble II and
	   the Ensemble? Is the extra $100 dollars worth the fact of having
	   separate subwoofers?
	3- Finally, how does it compare to more expensive systems: Bose,
	   Polk, Infinity etc. I like the ensembles low price, but I would
	   not want to sacrifice much in the way of sound quality.

Thanks in advance,
		Eric.
bosco@leland.stanford.edu

Newsgroups: rec.audio
From: labelle@intelhf.hf.intel.com (George La Belle)
Subject: Re: Blind Listening
Organization: Development Tools Operation, Intel Corp., Hillsboro  OR
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 92 22:07:24 GMT

kurts@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Kurt Strain) writes:

>In rec.audio, chrisc@gold.gvg.tek.com (Chris Christensen) writes:

>>   This is total bull!  The musicians ARE very concerned with room sound
>>   and the quality of Timbre is their LIFE.  Where do you get off with
>>   these statements!  To state that a musician in an orchestra isn't a
>>   listener is correct, after all they are only creating the gawd damn
>>   shit!.

>Oh, so from now on in order to tell how good a new jet is, we'll go to
>the real experts, the assemblers, not the test pilot.

	I second this! Musicians notoriously have "poor" stereo systems.

	I think the quality of sound is simply not noticed by them, for the
	most part - just like you can watch a good movie and get all of
	its meaning in black and white!

		George
From: lstowell@pyrnova.pyramid.com (Lon Stowell)
Newsgroups: rec.audio
Subject: Re: Dolby B & C
Keywords: Dolby noise reduction
Date: 9 Apr 92 16:54:40 GMT
Reply-To: lstowell@pyrnova.pyramid.com (Lon Stowell)
Organization: Pyramid Technology Corp., Mountain View, CA

In article <1992Apr9.071024.15641@unlinfo.unl.edu> vandevek@cse.unl.edu (James Vandevegt) writes:
>This is probably pretty old news, but I just got my first tape
>deck with Dolby B & C.  My older decks had a switch for
>Dolby NR.  I know Dolby C is different from Dolby NR, but are
>Dolby NR and Dolby B anything alike?
>
    Most decks prior to C just called it Dolby...so it about 99%
    that your deck's Dolby NR is Dolby B.

>Are there instances where one of B or C is the better choice
>for recording, or is one clearly better all the time?
>
    If you are recording for automobile playback...or for another
    deck w/o Dolby C, it is usually best to just use B.  Unless you
    like a fairly bright sound on playback or the auto system is a
    bit lacking in highs (and it is really better to EQ than to
    misuse Dolby that way...)

    There is some evidence that it is really best to use Dolby C
    only for tapes that will be played back on the same deck.  Quite
    a few people claim that it is rare to find two decks with
    sufficiently close alignment and tracking that Dolby C will
    yield better sound if you record on one deck then play back on
    the other.