From: tittle@ics.uci.edu (Cindy Tittle Moore)
Subject: rec.pets.dogs:  Health Care Issues FAQ
X-Last-Updated: 1992/09/26
Followup-To: poster
Supersedes: <dogs-faq/health-care_716619624@athena.mit.edu>
Reply-To: tittle@ics.uci.edu
Organization: University of California at Irvine: ICS Dept.
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 05:01:49 GMT
Expires: Sun, 29 Nov 1992 05:00:15 GMT

Archive-name: dogs-faq/health-care
Version: 3.0
Last-modified: 25 September 1992

This is one (of ten) of the FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) Lists
for rec.pets.dogs.  It is posted on a monthly basis: updates,
additions, and corrections (including attributions) are always
welcome: send email to one of the addresses below.

The nine parts are all archived at pit-manager.mit.edu (18.172.1.27)
in the directory /pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq.  The files are:
introduction, new, health-care, medical-info, training, working,
AKC-titles, misc1, misc2, and references.  To obtain the files, first
try ftp to pit-manager.mit.edu and look under that directory.  If ftp
does not work from your site, then try the mail server: send email to
mail-server@pit-manager.mit.edu with

send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/introduction
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/new
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/health-care
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/medical-info
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/training
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/working
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/AKC-titles
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/misc1
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/misc2
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/references

in the body of the message (leave the subject line empty).  If you
don't want all of them, include only the lines of the ones you want.
You do have to repeat the path information for each file.

Changes and additions indicated with |'s.
Canine ailments moved to Medical Information.

III.  Health Care Issues

  Prologue
  A.  In General.
  B.  Dental Care.
  C.  Trimming Nails.
  D.  Overheating.
  E.  Neutering.
  F.  Bathing.
  G.  Skin Problems.
  H.  Vaccinations.
  I.  Disease Transmission (Zoonoses).
  J.  Worms.
  K.  Pills and Dosing.
  L.  Vomiting.
  M.  Poisons.
  N.  Aging.


Prologue.

Much of the information found in this article is summarized from
Carlson & Giffin.  I would like to thank them for their informative
and accessible information.  Any mistakes made in the summaries are my
responsibility and not Carlson & Giffin's.  I believe that I am within
copyright laws by using summarizations (no direct quoting, except for
the toxic plants section), my own organization of the material, and
precise acknowledgement where relevant.
                                                   Cindy Tittle Moore

A.  In General.

Your dog cannot tell you when it feels sick.  You need to be familiar
with its normal behavior -- any sudden change may be a signal that
something is wrong.  Behavior includes physical and social behavior;
changes in either can signal trouble.

If you familiarize yourself with basic dog care issues, symptoms to
look for, and a few emergency care treatments, you can go a long way
toward keeping your dog healthy.  Never attempt to replace vet care
with your own (unless, of course, you are a vet); rather, try to be
knowledgeable enough to be able to give your vet intelligent
information about your dog's condition.

You should know some emergency care for your dog.  This is beyond the
scope of the FAQ, as you really need pictures or demonstrations.
Check a home-vet book and ask your vet about them.  

There are a number of good books that cover basic care for dogs.
These include:

Miller, Harry.  _The Common Sense Book of Puppy and Dog Care_.  Bantam
Books, Third Edition (revised) (1987).  ISBN: 0-553-27789-8 (paperback).
  Includes a section on practical home care, listing major symptoms
  you should be alert for, and listing general criteria by which you can
  determine a dog's overall healthiness.  Discusses major diseases and
  problems, gives sketches on what may be wrong given certain symptoms.  
  
Taylor, David. _You and Your Dog_.  Alfred A. Knopf, New York (1991).
ISBN:0-394-72983-8 (trade paperback).
  Taylor gives flow-chart questions to consider when deciding if
  symptoms are serious or not.  Not as comprehensive as other care
  books, but a good start in understanding what you need to look for
  when your dog seems off.  Includes illustrations of many procedures,
  such as teeth cleaning and nail trimming.  Informative discussion of
  reproductive system, grooming, and dog anatomy.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
 An *excellent* resource that details all aspects of health issues for
 dogs, and one that every conscientious dog owner should have is:

 Carlson, Delbert G., DVM, and James M. Giffin, MD.  _Dog Owners's
 Home Veterinary Handbook_.  Howell Book House, Macmillan Publishing
 Company, 866 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10022 USA (1980).  ISBN:
 0-87605-764-4 (hardcover).
  This comprehensive book is a complete guide to health care of dogs.
  It lets you know when you can treat the dog, or when you need to
  take it to the vet post-haste.  It lists symptoms so that you may
  inform your vet of relevant information about its condition.  The
  arrangement of the material facilitates rapid reference.
  Illustration of key procedures (pilling, taking pulse/temperature,
  etc).  Lists poisonous substances, including houseplants.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------


B.  Dental Care.

1. Hygiene

Dogs suffer from tartar buildup, just as people do.  Some dogs seem
particularly prone to tartar buildup and associated problems, others
never seem to get tartar, although most older dogs will show *some*
signs of tartar.  Untreated, tartar can cause all kinds of costly
dental problems including loss of teeth.

Make sure it gets plenty of dry and hard objects to chew and munch on.
In particular, Nylabones are most recommended for keeping teeth clean
(and may be all that some dogs need).  Dry dog food may help as well.

To prevent problems, brush your dog's teeth regularly.  Pet stores
sell dog toothbrushes and toothpaste.  Human toothpaste is not meant
for consumption and is too abrasive, so use the dog-formulated
toothpaste.  To do this successfully, you must get your dog to let you
handle its mouth.  This is, of course, easiest with puppies.  For an
older dog, you may have to work for a while before it will let you
open its mouth, look at it, and eventually brush it.

Even if your dog is not prone to tartar buildup, the occasional
brushing of its teeth helps keep your dog amenable to having its mouth
handled -- always useful.

2.  Diseases

Peridontal disease is the most common of canine dental problems.  Food
is trapped in little pockets alongside the teeth and decay.  As these
pockets become infected, the gums become soft and mushy and recede
from the teeth.  Pushing on the sides of the gums may cause pus to
rise.  The dog often has fetid breath.  This is best prevented by
keeping the teeth clean and tartar buildup down, although treatment is
possible.

Dogs do not commonly get cavities.  When they do occur, it is more
often at the root of the tooth rather than at the crown.  Cavities can
lead to root abscesses.

Abscessed roots: this often causes a swelling just below the animal's
eye.  Generally, tooth extractions are needed at this point.


C.  Trimming Nails.

Most dogs need to have nails trimmed at some point.  While the vet
will often clip them for you, many dogs need their nails trimmed more
often than that to prevent injuries and other problems associated
with overgrown nails.

A tip: Look for illustrations of dog nails.  Most dog care books will
have one.  Cardinal (a dog products vendor) provides a small poster
that illustrates not only normal nail clipping but also how to
gradually work back the length of nails that have grown too long and
is quite informative.

1.  Clipping

Use nail clippers available at pet stores.  Look for the guillotine
type (don't use the human variety, this will crush and injure your
dog's nail) and get blade replacements as the sharper the blade is the
easier this procedure is.  There is another kind that looks like
scissors with hooked tips that are also good, and may be easier to
handle (however, the blades cannot be replaced on this type).

Before cutting the nails, examine them carefully.  If the nails are
are white, the difference between the nail and the pink quick is easy
to see (use good lighting).  If the nails are dark, it will be much
harder to tell where the quick is, in which case you must take care.

If your dog resists having its nails trimmed, try trimming them while
you sit on a couch with the dog on its back in your lap.  By putting
the dog on its back, you make the nails accessible and put the dog in
a submissive position where they are less apt to fight.  As with many
things, this is easiest if you start while your dog is still a pup.

If the cutter is sharp, the nails won't crack if you cut at right
angles to the nail.  that is, hold it so that the blades are on the
top and bottom of the nail, not to the sides of the nail.

Do not cut below the quick.  It will be painful to your dog and bleed
everywhere.  When in doubt, trim less of the nail.  It will just mean
trimming more often.  Clip the portion above the quick for each nail
and don't forget the dewclaws.  Keep a styptic pencil on hand to
staunch any blood flow.  Flour or cornstarch will help in a pinch.

Dewclaws are a "fifth" toe, positioned as a "thumb" to the rest of the
nails and they do not touch the ground.  Not all dogs have them, and
they may be found on the front legs only or on all four legs.  Many
dogs have their dewclaws removed when they are puppies to prevent
infection resulting from easily injured dewclaws.  Some adult dogs
that regularly tear their dewclaws should have them removed.  While
they take longer to heal than three-day old puppies that have had
theirs removed do, the pain of periodically tearing them and going in
to the vet to have them bandaged back up makes the surgery worth
while.

2.  Grinding

The grinder avoids the potential problems of cutting the quick, nails
cracking, and sharp edges afterwards.  The nails can also be thinned,
allowing the quick to recede, resulting in shorter nails and a tighter
paw.

RC Steele and other mail-order companies sell them for about $45.
One model is the Oster Pet Nail Groomer, Model 129, with two speeds.
Some dogs may be spooked by the noise.  It may help to watch someone
who knows how to use it first.  

3.  Filing

You can use a wood rasp and file your dog's nails down.  Also, if you
clip them, using a plain file afterwards helps smooth the edges down
and keep them neat.  You can use "people files" or purchase files
shaped for this purpose.


D.  Overheating.

Dogs are not as good as people in shedding excess heat.  You should
take general care during hot and summer weather that your dog does not
get too hot.  Make sure shade and water is available and that there is
some fresh air.  DO NOT LEAVE YOUR DOG IN YOUR CAR on a hot day!  Cars
heat up much more quickly than you think and that one inch or so of
open window will not help.  If you park in the shade, the sun may move
more quickly than you think.  A water-filled pump sprayer can help
keep your dog cool.  Your best bet is to prevent overheating.

To help a dog suffering from overheating, apply cold water to its
genital and inner leg areas.  Dipping each foot into cold water also
helps.  Pouring it over the dog's back is also good.  You should
consult the vet if your dog loses consciousness or has trouble with
motor control.


E.  Neutering.

If you are not planning to breed your pet or put it to stud service,
or your dog's breeding days are over, you will want to neuter it.
There are a number of health benefits associated with neutering, for
either sex.

Technically, the general term for either sex is neutering; bitches are
spayed and dogs are castrated.  However, general usage is that bitches
are spayed or neutered and dogs are neutered.

Neutering is *not* a solution to behavioral problems; training is.

1. Castration

Dogs are castrated. A general anesthetic is administered, the
testicles are removed (oriectomy) and several stitches are used to
close it up.  The scrotum swill shrink and soon disappear.  You will
want to neuter the dog around six months of age, although dogs can be
neutered at any time after this.  Stud dogs are typically neutered
after they are too old to breed, and they suffer no ill effects.

2. Spaying 

Bitches are spayed; this is an ovario-hysterectomy (uterus and ovaries
are removed).  She must be put under general anesthesia.  A large
patch of fur will be shaved (to prevent later irritation of the
incision) off the lower abdomen.  You may have to take your bitch back
in to remove the stitches.  From a health point of view, the earlier
the bitch is spayed, the better.  Ideally, she should be spayed before
her first heat, this reduces the risk of reproductive and related
cancer (e.g., breast cancer) and later in life considerably.  The risk
rises in the first two heats before spaying, but does not rise further
with more heats before spaying.

3.  Post-op recovery 

You will need to watch to make sure your dog does not try to pull out
its stitches, and consult your vet if it does.  You might, in
persistent cases, need to get an Elizabethan collar to prevent the
animal from reaching the stitches.  Puffiness, redness, or oozing
around the stitches should be also reported to the vet.  Some stitches
"dissolve" on their own; others require a return to the vet for
removal.

For further information on how neutering may affect your dog, see the
section on neutering in Assorted Topics.

4. Cost

The cost can vary widely, depending on where you get it done.  There
are many pet-adoption places that will offer low-cost or even free
neutering services, sometimes as a condition of adoption.  Local
animal clinics will often offer low-cost neutering.  Be aware that
spaying will always cost more than castrating at any given place since
spaying is a more complex operation.  Vets almost always charge more
than clinics, partly because of overhead, but also because they often
keep the animal overnight for observation and will do free followup on
any later complications.  Larger animals will cost more than smaller ones.

5.  Effect on behavior

There is an extensive discussion on the effect neutering has on a
dog's behavior in the Assorted Topics chapter of the FAQ.


F.  Bathing.

You may need to bathe your dog on occasion.  The main thing to
remember is that dogs' skin is more delicate than humans.  It is much
more prone to drying out when you wash it.  Human based shampoos are
formulated to remove all the oils.  You need to get one formulated for
dogs that will remove dirt but not the essential oils for the coat.
Dogs that are frequently bathed may require some supplements (such as
Linatone or vegetable oil) to keep their skin and coat healthy.

A condition called impetigo may result from not rinsing all the soap
out.  Other general problems, such as fleas that prefer dried-out
skin, may occur.

1.  Procedure

(summarized from Carlson & Giffin)

First, groom your pet to rid its coat of any mats or knots.  Bathing
will not remove these and in fact will worsen them.  Plug its ears
with cotton to prevent water in the ears.

To prevent soap-burn in the eye, smear the eye area with a little
vaseline, or administer a drop of mineral oil in each eye.

Wet your dog thoroughly.  Using a nozzle and spray is much easier.
Lather and rinse its head carefully, keeping soap and water out of its
eyes and ears.  Lather and rinse the rest of its body.  Relather and
rinse any other areas that had stubborn stains.

Rinse your dog *thoroughly*, even beyond when you think you've got all
the soap out.  Try adding Alpha-Keri bath oil (one teaspoonful per
quart water) to the final rinse for coat luster.  Do NOT use vinegar,
lemon, or bleach rinses; they are acidic and will damage the dog's
coat and skin.

Dry your dog gently with towels, and keep it indoors until it is
completely dry to avoid chilling.

2.  Dry shampoos

Dogs with very oily coats my benefit from "dry-cleaning" in between
baths.  Calcium carbonate, talcum/baby powder, Fuller's earth, and
cornstarch are all effective.  They can be used frequently without
fear of removing essential oils or damaging the coat and skin.

Apply the powder, then brush out, against the lay of the hair, from
the bottom up (toes to head) with a soft bristle brush.  Then brush
the whole dog normally to get all the powder out.

3.  Tar

Do not use petroleum solvents, which are extremely harmful, to remove
the tar from your pet's skin.  Instead, trim away excess coat
containing tar where possible.  Soak remaining tarry parts in
vegetable oil overnight and then give your dog a complete bath.


G.  Skin Problems.

Some preventive steps

   * Keep your dog properly fed to prevent dry skin
   * When bathing your dog, use dog-formulated shampoo to prevent dry skin
   * Groom your dog regularly; some problems are caused by matted hair
     providing breeding grounds for a variety of skin diseases, regular
     grooming also helps keep you aware of any incipient problems.
   * Keep your dog flea and parasite free
   * Check your dog regularly for foxtails, burrs, and other sharp
     objects it may pick up when outside

1.  Relieving dry skin

Some things to try:

  * Shampoos with lanolin.
  * A good soak in cool water.
  * Non-drying shampoo: eg, Hy-Lyt EFA is non-allergenic.
  * Medicated shampoos may help with allergy-induced problems.
  * Avon's Skin-So-Soft(tm) added to the rinse water.

2.  Allergies followed by staph infections

Once a dog has an allergic reaction, it is quite common to have a
secondary staph infection.  Many vets aren't familiar with this.  The
staph infection may stay around long after the allergy is gone.

A vet that specializes in dermatology can be of great help in dealing
with skin problems.  See if your vet can refer you to such a person.

Some studies on primrose and fish oil in helping relieve or cure
secondary infections from allergies are documented in DM, March 1992.
More information may also be obtained from writing to the RVC
Dermatology Dept, Royal College St, London. NW1.

3.  Summary table

It is beyond the scope of this FAQ to examine any of these skin
problems in great detail, but here is a summary table of possible
problems.  Summarized from the summary tables in Carlson & Giffin,
pages 67-69.

Itchy Skin Disorders:

Name          Symptoms
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Scabies     | *intense* itching, small red spots, typical crusty ear tips
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Walking     | puppies 2-12wks, dry flakes move from head to neck to back,
Dandruff    | mild itchiness
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Fleas       | itching/scratching on back, tail, hindquarters
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Lice        | on poorly kept/matted coat dogs, uncommon, may have bald spots
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Ticks       | irritation at site of bite, often beneath ear flaps or thin skin
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Damp Hay    | severe itch from worm larvae, contacted from damp marsh hay
Itch        | (regional)
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Inhalation  | severe itch, face rubbing, licking paws, seasonal
Allergy     | also regional
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Flea Allergy| scratching continues after fleas killed, pimple rash
Dermatitis  |
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Contact     | itching/irritation at site of contact
Dermatitis  |
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Allergic    | repeated or continuous contact (eg flea collar), 
Contact Derm.   rash may spread
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Lick sores  | "boredom sores", licking starts at wrists/ankles
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hormone-related Hair Loss or Poor Hair Growth:

Name          Symptoms
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thyroid     | loss of hair
Deficiency  | (see Canine Ailments)
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Cortisone   | hair loss in symmetrical pattern, esp. trunk, skin is thin
Excess      | may also be from steroid treatments
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Estrogen    | greasy hair, hair loss in flanks/abdomen, wax in ears, loss of
excess      | hair around genitals, enlargened nipples, dry skin, brittle hair
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Estrogen    | scanty hair growth, smooth soft skin
deficiency  |
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Acanthosis  | hair loss in armpit folds, black thick greasy rancid skin
Nigrans     |
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Seborrhea   | "dandruff", hair/skin oily, yellow brown scales on skin, 
            | resembles ringworm
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Other Hair Loss, etc:

Name          Symptoms
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Collie Nose | sunburn on lightly pigmented nose, loss of hair next to nose
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Ringworm    | scaly/crusty/red circular patches .5-2in diameter w/hair loss 
            | in center and red margin at edge (not from a worm)
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Demodectic  | hair loss around eyelids, mouth, front leg, young dogs
mange #1    |
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Demodectic  | progression of #1, patches enlarge & coalesce, pyoderma
mange #2    | complications, affects all ages
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Calluses,   | gray/hairless/wrinkled skin over elbow, pressure points
elbow sores |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

With Pus Drainage (Pyoderma):

Name          Symptoms
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Puppy       | impetigo: pus filled blisters, crusty hairless skin
Dermatitis  | on abdomen, groin; acne: purple-red bumps on chin, lower lip
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Hair pore   | pimple-like bumps on back, sometimes draining sinus,
infection   | hair loss
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Skin Wrinkle| inflamed skin, foul odor in lip fold, facial fold,
Infection   | vulvar fold, tail fold
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Hot Spots   | in heavy coated dogs, painful inflamed patches of skin with
            | a wet, pus covered surface from which hair is lost
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Cellulitis  | painful hot inflamed skin (wound infections, foreign bodies,
            | breaks in skin)
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Abscesses   | pockets of pus beneath the skin, swells, comes to a head & drains
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Puppy       | under 4mos, sudden painful swelling of lips, eyelids,
Strangles   | ears and face, draining sores, crusts, and sinus tracts 
            | (prompt vet attention required, do not pop "acne")
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Lumps or Bumps on/beneath Skin:
(all lumps should be checked by vet even if not apparently painful)

Name          Symptoms
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Papillomas, | anywhere, including mouth, not painful
Warts       | can look like chewing gum stuck to skin
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Hematomas   | (bruises) - esp. on ears, from trauma
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Tender Knots| esp. at site of shot or vaccination, painful
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Cysts       | smooth lumps beneath skin, slow growth, possible cheesy 
            | discharge, possible infection, otherwise not painful
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Possibly    | rapid growth, hard & fixed to surrounding tissue,
cancerous   | any lump from a bone, starts to bleed, a mole that spreads or
lump        | ulcerates, open sores that do not heal (only way to tell for 
            | sure is a biopsy)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

4.  Diagnosing

Skin problems are not easy to diagnose and cure, but there is a lot of
research going on.  Something that can help is to keep a diary for the
dog.  Every day, record what the dog ate, what the weather was like,
whether it is itching or not, and anything else that might be relevant
(visitors, for instance, when it is bathed, and so forth).  It's
sometimes hard to recall all the variables that might be affecting the
dog, but if you keep a diary, sometimes patterns become very clear.


H.  Vaccinations.

1.  Regularly scheduled shots

An indispensable part of keeping your dog healthy is to keep its
vaccinations up-to-date.  A table, lifted from Carlson & Giffin, shows
all the major vaccinations (at minimum) that a dog in the US should
have.  Conditions in your area may necessitate additional shots; ask
your vet about them as they may not always be routinely included in
normal shot programs.  DHLPP is a combination shot: Distemper,
(Canine) Hepatitis, Leptospirosis, (Canine) Parainfluenza, (Canine)
Parvovirus.

 Age                Vaccine Recommended
--------------------------------------------------------------
5-8 wks           | Distemper - measles - CPI
------------------+-------------------------------------------
14-16 wks         | DHLPP, Rabies
------------------+-------------------------------------------
12 mos & annually | DHLPP
------------------+-------------------------------------------
12 mos &          | Rabies
3 yr intervals    |
--------------------------------------------------------------

Vaccinations may fail under the following conditions:

  * vaccinations are improperly administered (should always be by or
    supervised by a vet)
  * the dog has some innate inability to respond
  * the dog has already been exposed to the disease in question
  * the puppy is too young for the vaccination to "take"

2.  Other vaccines

Not an exhaustive list: Other vaccines and preventives should also
be given such as heartworm, Lyme disease, etc, when needed.  Heartworm
prevention should begin around 5 months, but then it depends on where
you live.  Those living in warmer, damper areas with higher
concentration of heartworm may want to start earlier.  Lyme disease
vaccine instructions recommend giving it around 12 weeks; Bordatella
vaccines (for Kennel cough) around 6 months or earlier depending on risk.

3.  Vaccine overload?

Be sure your dog is safe and vaccinated against everything you think
the dog may be exposed to, however, don't overload its system!  You
can do more harm than good by vaccinating your dog for everything all
at once than if you stagger the vaccinations and let the individual
immunities build up gradually.

4.  Up-to-date on shots?

Do you know what it means when your vet tells you your dog has ALL its
shots?  Chances are, your dog isn't.  Stay informed and read up in
some of the dog literature about what types of vaccinations your dog
should have.  Then make sure your vet has administered vaccines for the
appropriate things -- it's up to YOU to make sure your dog has *all*
its shots, not your vet.

For an interesting article on vaccinations, see the May 1992 issue
of _Dog World_.


I.  Disease Transmission (Zoonoses).

(summarized from Carlson & Giffin)

Any worm infestation has the potential of causing problems in humans.
Standard hygienic precautions will avoid most of these.  Things to
watch for: babies getting infected when playing near or on
contaminated soil or feces, working in the garden without gloves.

Rabies, toxoplasmosis, brucellosis, and tetanus (lockjaw) can all
affect both dogs and humans.  Again, simple hygienic precautions will
avoid most problems.


J.  Worms.

1.  Summary

Worm          Symptoms
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Roundworms  | Pot belly, dull coat, vomiting, diarrhea, loss of weight
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Hookworms   | Anemia, diarrhea, bloody stools (esp. puppies)
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Tapeworms   | "Rice" on anal area or in stools, possible diarrhea/vomiting
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Whipworms   | Loss of weight, some diarrhea, difficult to detect
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Threadworms | Profuse watery diarrhea, lung infection symptoms (esp. puppies)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

2.  Prevention

(summarized from Carlson & Giffin.)

Most worms have a lifecycle that makes it easy to reinfest dogs
because only part of that lifecycle is on the dog.  Steps you can take
to control worms in general:

  * If you have a kennel, do not use dirt.  A water tight surface that
    can be hosed down is best; gravel works also.  Remove stools from
    pens daily.
  * Lawns should be kept short and watered only when necessary.
    Remove stools from the yard daily.
  * Control fleas, lice, and rodents, as all these pests can be
    intermediate hosts for tapeworms.
  * Do not let your dog roam, as it may ingest tainted meat.  Any meat
    fed to your dog must be thoroughly cooked.

2.  Puppies

Most puppies have worms, as some immunity to worms only comes after
six months of ages and the mother will infect them with her dormant
worm larvae.  Puppies should be wormed at 2-3 weeks and again at 4-6
weeks.  You should be especially vigilant for worms while your puppy
is still growing; a bad case of worms can seriously interfere with its
development.  Bring fresh fecal samples in regularly to the vet for
analysis.


K.  Pills and Dosing.

There are many devices to aid in dosing and pilling.  Pill plungers
are effective and available from RC Steele.  A syringe with no needle
is good for liquids.  Ask your vet for some other ideas.

1.  Pills

(summarized from Carlson & Giffin)

Open your dog's mouth and drop the pill down as far back as you can,
on top of and in the center of the tongue.  Close the dogs mouth and
hold it shut while stroking the throat until your dog swallows.  If it
licks its nose, chances are that it swallowed the pill.  Giving it a
treat afterwards helps insure that the pill is swallowed.

You can try hiding the pills in a treat, say cheese or peanut butter.
Pill plungers work well, also.

2.  Liquids

(summarized from Carlson & Giffin)

Tilt the chin up at 45 degrees, and place the neck of the bottle into
the cheek pouch, between the molar teeth and the cheek.  Seal the lips
around it with your fingers and pour in the liquid.  Large amounts can
be given this way.  Hold the muzzle firmly while the dog swallows.
Bottles, syringes and eyedroppers can be used.  Your vet can help you
out here.


L.  Vomiting.

One of the most common and non-specific symptoms that a dog can have.
You must look at how and what it is vomiting.  If your dog vomits once
or twice and then seems its normal self, it is probably not serious.

1.  Non-serious causes

(summarized from Carlson & Giffin)

Most commonly: overeating.  Animals that gulp their food and
immediately exercise (esp. puppies) are likely to vomit.  This is not
serious.  Feeding in smaller portions more often helps eliminate this
problem.  In particular, if the vomit looks like a solid tube of
partially or non digested food, your dog ate too fast.

Eating grass or other indigestible material is also a common cause of
vomiting.

2.  Types of vomiting

(summarized from Carlson & Giffin)

Repeated vomiting: Its last meal is first vomited.  Then a clear,
frothy liquid.  This suggests a stomach irritant.  Grass, spoiled
food, other indigestibles, and certain infectious illnesses (such as
gastroenteritis) all cause irritation of the stomach lining.

Sporadic vomiting: The dog vomits off and on, but not continuously.
No relationship to meals, poor appetite.  Haggard appearance and
listlessness may indicate an internal organ disorder, a chronic
illness, a heavy worm infestation, or diabetes.  A thorough checkup is
called for.

Vomiting blood: Fresh blood indicates a break in the mucus lining
somewhere between the mouth and the upper small bowel.  Common causes
are foreign bodies, tumors and ulcers.  Material which looks like
coffee grounds is old, partly digested blood -- the problem is
somewhere in the stomach or duodenum.  Vomiting blood is always
serious and requires a trip to the vet.

Fecal vomiting: If the vomit is foul and smells like feces, there is
an obstruction somewhere in the intestinal tract.  Blunt or
penetrating abdominal trauma is another cause.  The dog will become
rapidly dehydrated with this type of vomiting and requires vet
attention.

Projectile vomiting: The vomit is forcefully expelled, sometimes for a
distance of several feet.  It is indicative of complete blockage in
the upper gastrointestinal tract.  Foreign bodies, hairballs, duodenal
ulcers, tumors and strictures are possible causes.  Intracranial
pressure can also cause projectile vomiting, causes can be brain
tumor, encephalitis, and blood clots.  Take the dog to the vet.

Vomiting foreign objects: Includes bone splinters, rubber balls,
(pieces of) toys, sticks and stones.  Sometimes worms.  You may want
to have the vet check your pet for any other foreign objects, although
not all of these will show up readily on x-ray scans.

Emotional vomiting: Sometimes excited or upset dogs vomit.  Remove the
dog from the source of distress.  If it is something it will encounter
often, you will have to train the dog to remain calm around the
source.

Motion sickness: Vomits in the car.  Most dogs will outgrow this
problem.  Check with your vet if it does not.  See Carsickness in
Assorted Topics for further comments.


M.  Poisons.

1.  Local Poison Control Centers

Check the emergency room of the local hospital and ask for the number
of the local Poison Control Center.  You should have this number up on
the refrigerator alongside the vet's number and the emergency care
number.

2.  National Animal Poison Control Center

The NAPCC is a non-profit service of the University of Illinois and is
the first animal-oriented poison center in the United States.  Since
1978, it has provided advice to animal owners and conferred with
veterinarians about poisoning exposures.  The NAPCC's phones are
answered by licensed veterinarians and board-certified veterinary
toxicologists.

The NAPCC is staffed with veterinary health professionals who are
familiar with how different species respond to poisons and treatment
protocols.  They have specialized information that lets the
experienced NAPCC staff make specific recommendations for your
animals.

Depending on which option is chosen, the charge is $2.75 per minute
when using the 900-680-0000 number, or $25.00 per case (Visa,
Mastercard, or American Express only) when using the 800-548-2423
number.  With either access, the NAPCC will do as many follow-up calls
as necessary in critical cases, and, if you wish, will consult with
your veterinarian.  Some clients of the NAPCC Animal Product Safety
Service will absorb the cost of your call.

When you call, be ready to provide:
  * Your name, address, and phone number;
  * The species, breed, age, sex, weight, and number of animals involved;
  * The poison your animals have been exposed to, if known;
  * Information concerning the poisoning (the amount of poison, the time
    since exposure, etc.); and 
  * The problems your animals are experiencing.

If you are unable to access the 900 number, call your telephone
company for assistance or use the 800 number.  When the 800 number is
used, your credit card number will be required in addition to the
above information.

2.  Chocolate

It is not chocolate itself that is poisonous to dogs, it is the
ingredient theobromine.  Theobromine causes different reactions to
different dogs: dogs with health problems, especially epilepsy, are
more affected by theobromine than healthy dogs.  Theobromine can
trigger epileptic seizures in dogs prone to or at risk of epilepsy.
The size of the dog will also be a major factor: the smaller the dog,
the more affected it is by the same amount than a larger dog.

Theobromine is also present in differing amounts in different kinds of
chocolate.  Cocoa powder has none; milk chocolate relatively little.
Dark chocolate has more and baking/bitter chocolate has quite a bit.

3.  Poisonous houseplants

(from Carlson & Giffin.)

  * That give rash after contact with the skin or mouth:
    (mums might produce dermatitis)

    chrysanthemum        poinsettia           creeping fig
    weeping fig          spider mum           pot mum    

  * Irritating (toxic oxalates), especially the mouth gets swollen;
    tongue pain; sore lips; some swell so quickly a tracheotomy is
    needed before asphyxiation:

    arrowhead vine       majesty              boston ivy
    neththytis ivy       colodium             pathos
    emerald duke         red princess         heart leaf (philodendron)
    split leaf (phil.)   saddle leaf (phil.)  marble queen      

  * Toxic plants - may contain wide variety of poisons.  Most cause
    vomiting, abdominal pain, cramps.  Some cause tremors, heart and
    respiratory and/or kidney problems, which are difficult for
    owner to interpret:

    amaryllis            elephant ears        pot mum
    asparagus fern       glocal ivy           ripple ivy
    azalea               heart ivy            spider mum
    bird of paradise     ivy                  sprangeri fern
    creeping charlie     jerusalem cherry     umbrella plant
    crown of thorns      needlepoint ivy 

4.  Poisonous outdoor plants

(from Carlson & Giffin.)

  * Produce vomiting and diarrhea in some cases:
    
    delphinium           poke weed            indian tobacco
    daffodil             bittersweet woody    wisteria
    castor bean          ground cherry        soap berry
    indian turnip        fox glove            skunk cabbage
    larkspur

  * May produce vomiting, abdominal pain, and in some cases diarrhea

    horse chestnut buckeye   western yew      apricot, almond
    rain tree monkey pod     english holly    peach, cherry
    privet                   wild cherry      mock orange
    japanese plum            american yew     bird of paradise
    balsam pear              english yew      black locust

  * Varied toxic effect

    rhubarb               buttercup           moonseed
    spinach               nightshade          may apple
    sunburned potatoes    poison hemolock     dutchman's breeches
    tomato vine           jimson weed         mescal bean
    loco weed             pig weed            angel's trumpet
    lupine                water hemlock       jasmine
    dologeton             mushrooms           matrimony vine
    dumb cane

  * Hallucinogens
 
    marijuana             periwinkle          morning glory
    peyote                nutmeg              loco weed

  * Convulsions

    china berry           nux vomica          coriaria
    water hemlock         moon weed
    
N.  Aging.

Although aging is irreversible, some of the infirmities of an older
dog may in fact be due to disease and therefore correctable or
preventable.  It is important for any dog over six years of age to be
examined thoroughly every six months.

1.  Behavioral changes

(summarized from Carlson & Giffin)

Older dogs are more complacent, less energetic and curious.  They may
be forgetful, and sleep more.  Crankiness and irritability are common.
They are less tolerant of changes in the environment; in particular
you may wish to have someone come by and check the dog at home rather
than kennel it when you leave on vacation.  Older dogs in hospitals
and kennels go off their feed, become overanxious, and bark frequently.

2.  Physical changes

(summarized from Carlson & Giffin)

Loss of muscular tone and lessened activity may result in the neck and
body becoming more bulky, but the legs more thin.  Resistance to cold
is impaired and older dogs should always have a warm and draft-free
bed.  Arthritic dogs may need a padded surface on which to sleep.

Moderate exercise helps keep the joints supple, and should be
encouraged, but not beyond its ability to do so.  Also, some
conditions, such as heart trouble, may necessitate restraining it from
exercise.  Toe nails will require more frequent trimming.  Stiffening
joints may make it more difficult for the dog to keep its genital and
anal areas clean.  The skin may dry out and require some care to keep
it clean and less dry.

Loss of hearing and sight may occur.  Tooth and gum disease is fairly
common.  Kidney failure and disease is more common (look for increased
thirst and other symptoms of kidney failure).  Incontinence (mostly in
older spayed females, treatable with estrogen) may appear.

An older dog needs less calories; the food must be of high quality so
that it still gets the nutrition it needs with fewer calories.

3.  Geriatric Vestibular Disorder

Common in older dogs, apparently something happens neurologically in
the connection between the brain and the inner ear (sometimes
infection, sometimes inflammation).  Very little is actually known
about it, but it does tend to subside after about a day or so.
Unfortunately, the dog is generally unable to eat or drink, as it is
completely disoriented.

Dogs rarely show any enduring effects from such an episode other than
sometimes their head leaning or tilting to one side.

----------------
This file is Copyright (c) 1992 by Cindy Tittle Moore.  It may be
freely distributed in its entirety provided that this copyright notice
is not removed.  It may not be sold for profit nor incorporated in
commercial documents without the author's written permission.

Cindy Tittle Moore
Internet: tittle@ics.uci.edu  UUCP: ...!ucbvax!ucivax!tittle
Bitnet  : cltittle@uci        USmail: PO BOX 4188, Irvine CA 92716
----------------
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs