HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: wsl4m@kelvin.seas.Virginia.EDU (William Scott Laughinghouse)
Subject: Reference to starting seeds indoors..        to Prune Damaged Trees?
 <RMURA.93Jan5154105@world.std.com>
Organization: University of Virginia
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 21:40:32 GMT


I'm new to this group and saw a question asked about starting seeds indoors.  This works great because you get a very good jump on the growing season.  The article had mentioned receiving numerous catalogs from the seed companies.  There is a product that you can aquire from "Garden Supply Co."  If you got all of the seed catalogs you probably got this one also.  It is called there "APS System"  Iam starting over 500 plants this year using this system, including perennials, annuals, and vegetables.  I buil






t a five shelf stand with grow lights, the specical grow light flourecent tubes.  the shelves ar removeable so as the young seed lings grow there will be room.  If you want to start perennials from seeds.  It is time to start.  At least 12 to 16 weeks before the last frost date in your area.  I hope this has been helpful.

scott

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: psmith@alfred.carleton.ca (Peter Smith)
Subject: Re: seed catalogs
Organization: Carleton University
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 16:43:01 GMT

In <1993Jan2.201613.29134@news.acns.nwu.edu> drmax@casbah.acns.nwu.edu (Marianna Max) writes:


>Well this is probably a FAQ but here goes. I would like addresses, or
>better yet phone numbers of seed companies so that I can order their
>catalogs. I'm interested in both flower and veggie seeds, primarily though,
>things that can be grown in containers.

>Thanks, Max

Check your newsstand for the early new year gardening magazine issues.
They usually have a great roundup of addresses and specialties of all
major seed companies in U.S./Canada.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: gwv@eastrg2.cray.com (George Vandenberghe)
Subject: Re: Help! Sprouting!
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 4 Jan 93 14:04:44 CST

In article <27555@sybase.sybase.com>, karenp@sybase.com (Karen Paulsell) writes:
|> In article <cfD9N5m00UhW01dEoR@andrew.cmu.edu> mf0w+@andrew.cmu.edu (Michel Fougeres) writes:
|> >I've been trying to sprout seeds indoors to get a head start on my garden
|> >this year but I'm having no luck.  Its not too warm around here, actually
|> >quite cold, even inside, so *** any help on how someone should go about 
|> >sprouting seeds would be very greatly appreciated. ***
|> 
|> Before I moved my water heater from the kitchen to the coooold 
|> basement, I sometimes started seedlings on or next to it. Before you
|> try it, get a thermometer, and measure the temperatures, though, it
|> could be too hot or cold.
|> 
|> I've used the warming cables with good results. A loop of wire with
|> a thermostat, and an electrical cord to plug into the outlet. You
|> flatten the loop and thermostat into a seed-tray, in a bed of sand
|> or whatever, and place the seed-sixpacks on top. I recall that I
|> could see a jump in my electric bill when I had a couple of these
|> running. So, here I am, saving money by keeping my house at 62 
|> degrees, and wasting it by heating up my seed trays, for a slight
|> jump on the season!

     An often overlooked warm spot is the top of a refrigerator towards
the back.  I sprout a lot of my warmth loving seeds there.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: gwv@eastrg2.cray.com (George Vandenberghe)
Subject: Re: Too late to plant daffodils?
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Distribution: usa
Date: 5 Jan 93 14:52:16 CST

In article <29282@oasys.dt.navy.mil>, dsegelho@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Diane Segelhorst) writes:
|> Is it too late to plant daffodils?
|> 
|> We recently moved.  I dug up a lot of daffodil bulbs that needed to
|> be separated, intending to plant them at the new house in November.
|> But the builder got delayed...  but that's another story.  In any case,
|> we didn't move in until Christmas.  Can I still put the bulbs in the
|> ground and expect them to come up, or should I save myself the effort?
|> I'm in Maryland.  The ground has frozen and thawed a few times so far.
|> I think last year we had a warm spell in February and my daffodils started
|> coming up then.
|> 
|> Diane Segelhorst
|> dsegelho@oasys.dt.navy.mil


    I don't know but suspect NO IT IS NOT TOO LATE.  They
need several weeks of chilling before they will grow
well in warm weather but if you plant them this weekend,
they will probably get seven weeks before they start 
growing fast.  The ones I planted in October are coming
up now and they have only had about six weeks of real chill.
     Incidentally I have the same problem with tulips which
I have finally had time to get into the ground just now.  I
expect they'll do okay.   I also live in the DC area.
From: misty@ac.dal.ca
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: altering soil pH
Date: 12 Jan 93 10:38:27 -0400
Organization: Dalhousie University, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

Hello, again!
Thanks to everybody who helped me with my hyacinth problem.

Is there anyone out there who can direct me to literature pertain-
ing to altering soil pH levels - i.e. what can I add to increase
or decrease soil pH for my plants?  If so, then can they also
tell me if the literature contains any information as to whether
it is better to add the substance directly to the soil, or 
should it be diluted and added to the soil via watering?

Thanks in advance.

Rachel MacDonald
Organization: Information Services, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 11:26:22 -0500 
From: Ruth Kline <rk30+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: Setting-out onions by the moon

The old rule is that you plant root vegetables in the dark of the moon
-- but as far as I know, that applies only to planting seeds. I don't
think onion sets are particular about the moon phase, but it might be
fun to experiment by planting half of them in the waning moon and half
in the waxing moon. 
-- Ruth Kline, Carnegie Mellon University
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: When to Prune Damaged Trees?
Date: 11 Jan 93 19:55:24 -0600
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

In article <RMURA.93Jan5154105@world.std.com>, rmura@world.std.com (Ron Mura) writes:
> We had a major snowstorm in mid-December and trees suffered
> a lot of damage.  Should limbs that were broken and are still
> half-attached be cut off now, or should I leave them as-is until
> warmer weather?  (The tree in need of most attention is a hawthorn.)

I prefer to prune just as soon as possible after the damage has occured
because if limbs are still attached to the tree, more weather can
pull the branches down more, taking off gory hunks of bark and possibly
killing the tree.

Sometimes it just isn't feasible to do a really good job of pruning
right after a storm.  In that case, I cut off as much of the branch
as I can, just to relieve the weight of the branch.  Then I do the
proper tidying up just as soon as I can after that-- though it might
be a month or more later.

Kay Klier  
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: kls@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Kenneth L Shellberg)
Subject: Amer Hort Soc
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 16:02:02 GMT

Received in the mail yesterday a membership offer from the American
Horticultural Society.  I am leaning toward joining, but thought I
would check the collective wisdom of the net first.  If you are or
have been a member, is the membership worth the price? ($35).

Ken

-- 
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
- Ken Shellberg                 |   Internet: kls@ohstpy.mps.ohio-state.edu -
- The Ohio State University     |   CIS:      76247.1705@compuserve.com     -
- Geological Sciences           |   Voice:    614-292-2721                  -
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: psmith@alfred.carleton.ca (Peter Smith)
Subject: Re: What does "X days" on seed package mean?
Organization: Carleton University
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 14:13:27 GMT

In <1993Jan10.155451.8849@ultb.isc.rit.edu> jdc3538@ultb.isc.rit.edu (J.D. Cronin) writes:


 >Seed catalogs and seed packages give the number of days until
>"something" for the plant in question.

>Is this:
>	Days from germination to harvest?
>	Days from flowering to harvest?
>	Days from planting to harvest?
>	Days from something else to something else?

>For example, one of the larger watermelons is listed at 100 days.
>That just doesn't seem like a long time, but I'm sure we couldn't
>grow them in upstate NY.  Any ideas?

>Thanks...Jim

I believe it means number of days from germination in garden or
transplanting in  garden to harvest.

For instance, I start 75-day watermelons indoors at least 45 days
before transplanting, and, yet, harvest it at least another 70 days
after transplanting.

For radishes, which are planted directly in garden, if the package
says 28 days, I'll probably have them 30 days after seeding (2 days
for germination).

Hope that helps
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: cl27111@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Christopher  Lindsey)
Subject: Re: Cranberry bush
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 18:39:25 GMT

seeley@cerl.uiuc.edu (Joseph Seeley) writes:

>I'm looking for a screening plant (7-8 ft).  A couple of places list
>a cranberry bush that looks promising -- right height (though I don't
>know how long it will take to get there), various colors during the
>year (white flowers, fall foliage), and edible berries.  Since I don't
>need screening in the winter, this could work.  What's the downside?
>Berries aren't that useful?  Crops pretty small?  Takes 20 years to
>reach full height?  My edible landscaping book covers only the bog-type
>cranberry.

	What was probably listed is Viburnum trilobum, called the American
cranberrybush viburnum.  This is not the same plant that you get cranberry
juice from (that's the bog version), but it is a nice landscaping plant,
provided that it gets the right conditions.  The soil needs to be well-
drained, high in organic matter, and moist, or else it will tend to become
scraggly and ungainly.  
	Instead of planning on eating the berries, I would leave them on the
plant; they sometimes will last through the entire winter...
From: bp816@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Stuart Krivis)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Catalpa tree
Date: 12 Jan 1993 00:15:21 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc10.ins.cwru.edu


The Catalpa can be a very pretty tree when in flower. But it is
also a very messy tree. You will be cleaning up flowers, leaves,
and seedpods. Catalpas also get Catalpa worms. About every fifth
year we get a large enough infestaation that you can't stand 
under the tree without being covered in worm droppings. The
local fishermen think the worms are great, I could do without
them. Wasps prey on the worms, keeping the population down, but
you will have a lot of wasps buzzing around.

We are thinking of chopping down our Catalpas, even though they
are big and very old. If anyone can suggest a good replacement,
let me know.

Stuart
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: Christine_Code@mindlink.bc.ca (Christine Code)
Subject: Stokes sells your name
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 17:34:08 GMT

******STOKES SELLS YOUR NAME*******

Thinking about ordering seed catalogues?   Last year I wrote away and got
catalogues from 20 or so different seed companies.   I'm tired of junk mail,
so I used a different set of initials with each company - that way, when junk
mail arrives, one glance at the initials on the label tells me who has sold
me out.

By far the worst offender was Stokes.  They must have sold my name 15 times,
and I'm getting a lot of junk mail because of them.   And so, my gardening
friends, if you want to reduce the amount of junk mail you get, I suggest
that you stay away from Stokes.

Happy gardening!

...Christine

--

==========================================================================
Christine Code                 *
                               *  "A bear, however hard he tries,
Vancouver, B.C, CANADA         *   Grows tubby without exercise."
Christine_Code@MindLink.bc.ca  *                   -A.A. Milne
==========================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: Bob Klebba <nicmad!klebba%astroatc.uucp@spool.cs.wisc.edu>
Subject: Re: Preparing clay soil for planting
Organization: Nicolet Instrument Corporation
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 17:29:15 GMT

In article <1993Jan1.004421.29150@leland.Stanford.EDU> Carol F. Topp,
ctopp@cup.portal.com writes:
>I've heard concerns about the pesticide residues present in city
>composted leaf mulch. Has anyone looked into the levels of 
>residues present. I would want to know the answer before using
>it for growing edible plants.

I have used the compost provided by the county here in Madison, WI for 7
years.  Tests for pesticides and heavy metals in the compost have shown
less than detectable amounts of pesticides and normal levels of metals
(i.e. levels found in nature).   Leaves are collected in the fall off the
terrace, but many are collected from the gutter.  One could worry about
heavy metals from engine oil, brake fluid, etc. picked up by leaves from
the gutter, but I don't.

Pesticides have been shown to break down rather quickly in compost piles.
 I would be more concerned about adding too much organic material that
has not been composted completely.  The decompostition of undecayed
material will lock up nutrients in the soil to the point that plants will
suffer.  My experience is that composting on a municipal scale does not
recieve the same care that the home gardener provides.  There may be wood
chips and other hard-to-compost materials with the leaves.

I really enjoy using compost from the county.  It is free and it is an
excellent soil builder.   The only inconvience is the occasional bits of
trash that I find,  but some of these can be quite entertaining.  For
example, a small toy truck that appeared several years ago resurfaces
every now and again when I'm digging or planting.  I also seem to be able
to harvest more marbles than my neighbors.

Bob Klebba
Madison, Wisconsin, USDA zone 4
Inet: nicmad!klebba%astroatc.uucp@spool.cs.wisc.edu
"Feed the soil, not the plant"
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: djd@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (david.j.daulton)
Subject: Re: Bay or magnolia
Organization: AT&T
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 22:11:43 GMT

In article <1993Jan7.194529.25999@news.acns.nwu.edu> ckelly@math.nwu.edu (Christopher Kelly) writes:
>
>Recently I purchased a "Sweet Bay Magnolia" from a local nursery. It
>is beautiful, although now of course it is bare.  My question: Is this
>in fact what I think it is, i.e., is this a bay tree, from which I can
>pick tender young leaves to put in my soups and pickling? 
>

Nope.  Bay leaf growns on a tree--as other posters have noted.  I had one
in my yard when I was stationed in Izmir, Turkey, with NAT0.  It believe it
takes much warmer weather than we have up here in Ohio or Michigan.

The good news is that sweet bay magnolia is a delightful tree (or,
more likely a large shrub, here in zone 5).  The great thing about it is
that it drags out its bloom period, so they are not all lost with one
late frost.  And the fragrance is strong and wonderful--the one in my garden
here often catches me by surprise when I walk by and catch the scent.
The leaves and twigs do have a clean, spicey smell, but it does not remind
me much of bay leaf.  Also, it grows well in wet places.  

Dave Daulton, Columbus, Ohio
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: aalto@phcu.helsinki.fi (Erkki '\\rkki' Aalto, University of Helsinki)
Subject: Re: Cranberry bush
Organization: University of Helsinki, Finland
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 06:38:27 GMT

In article <1993Jan12.020321.27808@casbs.Stanford.EDU>, kathleen@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Kathleen Much) writes:
> In article <C0pox4.IvB@news.cso.uiuc.edu> seeley@cerl.uiuc.edu (Joseph Seeley) writes:
>>I'm looking for a screening plant (7-8 ft).  A couple of places list
>>a cranberry bush that looks promising -- right height (though I don't
>>know how long it will take to get there), various colors during the
>>year (white flowers, fall foliage), and edible berries.  Since I don't
>>need screening in the winter, this could work.  What's the downside?
>>Berries aren't that useful?  Crops pretty small?  Takes 20 years to
>>reach full height?  My edible landscaping book covers only the bog-type
>>cranberry.
>
> To be very helpful, we need to know where you are, what kind of soil
> you have, and your light conditions (full sun, shade, etc.).
> Cranberries need dampness and acid soil.
>

Except that 'cranberry bush' is probably a species of Viburnum. It has acid red
berries, but otherwise nothing to do with cranberries. It likes good alkaline
soil and grows fast. I cannot comment the berries, my own specimen is still
too small.

Erkki Aalto

Helsinki, Finland
From: cs161fcd@sdcc10.ucsd.edu (Sean Maschue)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Setting-out onions by the moon
Keywords: moon lunar gravity onions alliums
Date: 11 Jan 93 22:36:43 GMT



Quick Question:

What is the proper phase of the moon to set out onion bulbs by?
Waning seems familiar to me, but I can't remember?

Also, while on the subject of onions, does anyone know about 
this thing that the Guatamalan Mayan descendants do called
onion terracing?  

Thanks.  xoxo

sean
-- 
sean maschue <smaschue@ucsd.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: psmith@alfred.carleton.ca (Peter Smith)
Subject: Wall-o-Water (for tomatoes)
Organization: Carleton University
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 18:04:45 GMT

Wall-O-Water, Kozy Coats ... call them what you will.  I'm curious
about these tomato plant outdoor wraps that are filled with water in
order to allow earlier transplanting, and faster yield.

Have people had good experiences with them.  In particular:

1) how much earlier did you get a yield

2) any precautions

3) what else are they used on (eg: peppers, early melons, ...)

Thanks in advance
From: cusanell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Dominic Cusanelli)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Seedlings under lights and legginess
Date: 5 Jan 93 12:00:32 GMT
Reply-To: cusanell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Dominic Cusanelli)
Distribution: na
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD


  I've been growing tomatoes, peppers, and a whole host of other
plants from seed indoors for years.  They do take some
careful attendence.  However, the rewards are worth it!

  To answer your question - hardening off is extreeeeemly impor-
tant.   But long before this, any time a tomatoe plant becomes
tall and week - simply snip off the lowest leaves and replant
it in a deeper container.  If you don't have something deeper,
carefully bend the stem around in whatever you have and plant
it right up to those bottom leaves.  You will be amazed at the
groth spurts you'll trigger.  I do this at least THREE times
befor the plants ever get outside.  I also do this with most
other plants - HOWEVER - each time I only plant the seedling
about 1/2 to 1 inch deeper.

  Also remember - do not use fertilizer on the seedlings until
they have at least 4 - 6 true leaves.  Don't count the
germination leaves.  GOOD LUCK.
From: mpc@biosys.apldbio.COM (Morgan Conrad)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Golden Gate Gardening
Date: 6 Jan 93 23:01:16 GMT
Reply-To: mpc@apldbio.com (Morgan Conrad)
Organization: Applied Biosystems Inc, Foster City, CA

BTW, WHole Earth Access seems to have some kind of special sale
on it - I picked the book up for $20 there.
From: lynx@surrey.amigans.gen.nz (Lynsey Gedye)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Xmas Tree Alternatives - they're back an' meaner 'n hell!
Date: 6 Jan 93 23:04:32 GMT-12
Distribution: world
Organization: Prime Line, Wanganui, New Zealand

  Yes, folks, why wait 'til next xmas to start this up again? =;)

  Story One:
  The Wellington Zoo, tonight on the teeve, have announced a campaign
  for people to trade in their tatty xmas tree for a free pass to the
  zoo.  The zoo folks mulch the trees to boost their gardens.

  Story Two:
  Xmas trees are usually sold at a nearby major road intersection.
  Last year in an attack of maudlin anthropomorphism, I was depressed
  to see one last tree, all alone on xmas eve.  Can you imagine being
  of such a low standard in your next life that you can't even get
  picked as an xmas tree?  Even worse, they go for free after 18:00
  on xmas eve...  and you thought it was tough not being picked for
  the ballteam...  all alone *sniff* on xmas eve *sniff* waaaaah!


  Revenge, they say, is a dish best eaten cold.

  To my utter delight, this year, on my way home after a tipple
  on xmas eve, 17:30 - trees are free and there - there was the
  little xmas tree with some other friendly trees, not alone on
  xmas eve - party animals - how wonderful!

  I know what you're thinking.  How did I know it was the same
  tree?  Easy.  It was the one with no pine needles - it was
  utterly, totally devoid of green bits - a skeleton.  It had
  waited all year for the friends to come back and party.

  Don't yah love a happy ending?



--
           lynx@surrey.amigans.gen.nz    lynx@amigans.gen.nz
From: Bob.Batson@mtask.omahug.org (Bob Batson)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Source for Holy Basil
Date: 04 Jan 93 13:21:35 CST
Reply-To: bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org
Organization: Multitasking Systems, Kansas City
Followup-To: rec.gardens

bhaskar@brtph181.bnr.ca (Shaji Bhaskar) writes:

 > Some time ago, someone had posted the address of a mail-order source
 > for this plant.
 > Can someone email me this information or post it?  Thanks a bunch.

        SANDY MUSH HERB NURSERY                 [CAT - $4]
        Rt. 2                                   [MIN. ORD. - $20]
        Surrett Cove Rd.
        Leicester, NC 28748
        (704) 683-2014
--------
        CATNIP ACRES HERB FARM                  [CAT - $2]
        67 Christian St.
        Oxford, CT 06483
--------
        CASA YERBA GARDENS                      [CAT - SASE]
        3459 Days Creek Road
        Days Creek, OR 97429


*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*

Bob Batson
bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: pharvey@quack.sac.ca.us (Paul Harvey)
Subject: Re: Landtech products?
Organization: The Duck Pond public unix: +1 408 249 9630, log in as 'guest'.
Date: 8 Jan 1993 02:07:32 UTC

In article <1993Jan7.185539.16475@phx.mcd.mot.com> 
hlm@phx.mcd.mot.com (Heather Magill) writes:
>Personally, I would just rather add plain manure but my soil needs
>help in the worst way (alkaline, caliche.. typical Phoenix
>desert soil)

Alkaline: Adjust pH down to about 6.5 with Ag grade sulfur.
Salts: Apply Gypsum per directions.
Caliche: Clay? Add large amounts of ground fir bark mulch. Drainage
problem? Raised beds, drainage pipe, break through hardpan.
Better Options: Raised bed filled with garden loam bought by the
truckload.

>If anyone is interested I'll post some of the propaganda when I
>receive it.

Put the money you save in a no-load mutual fund.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: drmax@casbah.acns.nwu.edu (Marianna Max)
Subject: Re: seed catalogs
Organization: Northwestern University, Evanston Illinois.
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 13:22:56 GMT

In article <psmith.726165781@cunews> psmith@alfred.carleton.ca (Peter Smith) writes:
>In <1993Jan2.201613.29134@news.acns.nwu.edu> drmax@casbah.acns.nwu.edu (Marianna Max) writes:
>
>
>>Well this is probably a FAQ but here goes. I would like addresses, or
>>better yet phone numbers of seed companies so that I can order their
>>catalogs. I'm interested in both flower and veggie seeds, primarily though,
>>things that can be grown in containers.
>
>>Thanks, Max
>
>Check your newsstand for the early new year gardening magazine issues.
>They usually have a great roundup of addresses and specialties of all
>major seed companies in U.S./Canada.


Thanks for your suggestion. Also thank you to the people who sent me the
seed catalog list. I'm busily requesting seed catalogs already. 

Max
Newsgroups: rec.gardens