HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Organization: University of Maine System
Date: Thursday, 23 Jul 1992 09:31:31 EDT
From: Johann Pretorius <JOHANN@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Water in the Basement.

  We have begun proceedings to buy a house.  It was reposessed
by the bank and the guy who lived in it before was apparently
so pissed-off that he put a hose into the basement and flooded
it with about 5 feet of water.  That was about a year ago.

  Now there are no traces of water but one can see where the
water level was.  The rooms in the basement (a family room
with a woodstove and a bedroom and some other room, maybe
a pantry, was all torn out by the bank.  The floor is tiled
with good-looking tiles.  The ceiling was torn out too.

  There are 2 places for sump pumps and one pump is still
there.  There are traces of moisture around the edges of the
floor, but the rest seems fine.  The house is 6 years old
and stands on 1.5 acres.

  Since this is our first house, could someone tell me more
about the "water in the basement" phenomena.  How come water
can come in in the first place ? (Supposing that the flooding
is not the only reason for the water there).  Is there anything
one can do to prevent it ?  The house is raised about 2 feet
higher than the surrounding land.(*1)  We also thought of putting
up gutters and lead the rain away from the house.  Also, I am
thinking of putting back the ceiling (how come they tore it
out) since there is insulation still there.  Finally, someone
told me that the only reason water came into his basement, was
that there was a hole for the sump pump.  He filled it up with
cement and never had water come in again.  Is that wise ?

  Thanks for taking the time.  First time buyer frenzy is
pretty ugly - as you can see.  But is does seem like a bargain
house (a dream-house according to my wife...)

(*1) It looks like the house was built on a 2 feet high hill.

------
*----------------------------------*-University of Southern Maine-*
| johann@maine           (bitnet)  |      Personnel/Payroll       |
| johann@maine.maine.EDU (internet)| 37 College Ave, Gorham, Maine|
*__________________________________*__04038_U.S.A._(207)_780-5114_*
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: mpb@troy.uucp (22161-bunz)
Subject: Re: Spraying water on AC coils (was Ground source heat pump)
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 92 20:12:42 GMT

In article <Bs9rn0.CE0@fmsrl7.srl.ford.com>, wreck@fmsrl7.srl.ford.com (R. Cage) writes:
> In <rhoward.712609724@matd> rhoward@matd.gatech.edu (Robert L. Howard) writes:
> >Well, what if the gain in cooling effeciency was less than the
> >amortized cost of the equipment plus the monthly cost of the
> >water out of the tap?  (It could happen).
> 
> That does, indeed, depend.  However, given the reduced amount
> of air which needs to be pushed through the condenser for a
> given amount of cooling, and the decreased compressor load
> from the cooler condenser surface, there will be energy savings
> if you use spray cooling.
> 
> If you pay too much for the equipment, you're going to show
> a negative return on even the best techno-fix.  I find it
> hard to believe that disposable spray-nozzles for plant
> watering and plastic tubing (replacable every year), with
> a solenoid valve, a 555 and driver would cost very much...
> -- 
> Russ Cage   wreck@fmsrl7.srl.ford.com  russ%rsi.uucp@destroyer.rs.itd.umich.edu
>   *  When Ford pays me for my opinions, THEN they can call them theirs. *
> 
>                            _Bad_ cop.  No donut.

I assumed that the costs people were referring to was the cost
associated with your compressor/condensor cabnet rusting out
due to the additional moisture exposure.

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: michael@sequent.com (Michael Squires)
Subject: Re: Wallpaper Stripper Advice?
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems, Inc.
Distribution: us
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 92 18:49:51 GMT

harrism@aquila.rtp.dg.com (Mike Harris) writes:


>	I need to strip two bathrooms and a hallway of wallpaper.
>	The kitchen and dining room may also need to be done.

>	Should I rent a machine or buy a Wagner or B&D home unit?
>	The Wagner is $58 and the B&D is $48 - to me not comparing
>	favorably with a commercial rental at $20/day for a day or so.
>	The home jobs are said to work for drape steaming though.

>	I'd appreciate your input if have direct experience.

>	regards, Mike

I can't comment on the use of machines. I just stripped three rooms without
them and had no real problems. I don't know if the machines would have
helped much.

I had paper (not vinyl-faced), single layer, 8-10 years old, over painted
drywall.

In one room (where I was transforming carpet -> ceramic tile) I pulled the
baseboard. Once this was done, I found that I could grab a corner of the
paper & get most of the sheet off the wall. The other two rooms were harder
but not horrible.

I got some stuff from Rhoda (don't remember the name - some sort of "enzyme
dissolver") that I mixed with warm water in a bucket. I applied it with
a big sponge (scoring the paper - carefully - first). Then just peeled off
the rest.

					Good luck,
					Michael Squires
					michael@sequent.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: roody@whzguy.shr3.dec.com (Greg Roody)
Subject: Re: Raccoons - how can I convince them to leave?
Keywords: kinder, gentler
Reply-To: roody@whzguy.shr3.dec.com (Greg Roody)
Organization: Rarely
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 20:14:54 GMT

In general, the furry little critter hate, in no particular order:

       *  The smell of Amonia (toss soaked rags into their den - really 
          pisses them off)

       *  Noise (set up a loud radio with metal or cRap)

       *  Light  (if you can, shine bright lights into where they are hiding)

If you combine these methods, they will give you a very dirty look as 
they wander over to your neighbors house.  Not a permanent fix, but certainly
passive enuf. 
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: ADVICE WANTED:  Changing house outlets from 2 to 3 prongs
Reply-To: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 92 01:13:19 GMT

In article <1992Jul27.185459.3955@vlsi.ll.mit.edu> ac@vlsi.ll.mit.edu (Andrew V. Curtis) writes:

>        I just bought a 45 year old house that is in outstanding condition
>with one exception: it is equipped with only two-prong outlets throughout
>the house.  So if possible I would like so ideas/advice about what I would 
>need to do to convert the house to three-prong outlets.  I don't know if 
>the third wire is already running through the house or not.  If you have 
>any idea as to procedure/materials/cost/advice for the above I would greatly
>appreciate it.

A house that old probably has the old armored cable in it. The stuff I'm
thinking of has two insulated wires inside a spiral metal sheath. If that's
the case, most or all of your outlet boxes will be grounded back to the
box by this sheath. You can check this for each outlet by putting a circuit
tester between the hot line and the box. If you get a good, bright, signal,
you don't need a third wire; just buy a three prong outlet and put it in.
You can then test the result with a circuit tester to the grounding plug.

A few points to make here -
1. If you ever do major work on this, it'll probably have to be brought
   up to code. In that case, you'll probably have to replace the line
   with Romex.
2. The insulation in cable that old is *very, very* delicate. They
   typically used rubber and/or cotton, and this will be dry and brittle.
   If you have to move the wire very much to replace any particular
   outlet, leave it alone.
3. If you don't get a good ground signal from any particular outlet before
   trying to replace it, leave that one alone.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | "Statistics": A means of presenting your personal
                    |   prejudices in convincing political disguise.
                    |         Kelvin Throop - The Management Dictionary
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: daniel@kenext.msk.su (Finogenov Daniel Victorovich)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: WANTED: GERMAN/DEUTSCHE MARKS in Freiburg, I offer roubles. QUICKLY!!!
Date: 28 Jul 92 18:15:22 GMT
Reply-To: daniel@kenext.msk.su
Distribution: eunet
Organization: KENEXT, Ltd

daniel@kenext.msk.su
daniel%kenext.msk.su@relay.ussr.eu.net
Organization: University of Maine System
Date: Tuesday, 21 Jul 1992 15:23:03 EDT
From: <SAUDA@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Proposed Real Estate Lending Standards

In the July 16, 1992 Federal Register (57 FR 31594), the Dept of Treasury,
Fed Reserve, and FDIC have published a notice of proposed rulemaking.

The proposed rule is in response to the FDIC Improvement Act of 1991 which
requires these agencies to adopt uniform standards for real estate lending.
In establishing the standards, the agencies are supposed to consider:
risk to deposit insurance funds, need for safe and sound lending
institutions, and the need for available credit.

The agencies are proposing establishing loan-to-value (LTV) limitations on
insured institutions and bank holding companies.  LTV (for the purpose of
these standards) is ratio of credit to appraised value at time credit is
originated.

For residential (pre-owned) properties there are 2 alternatives forwarded.
1) LTV 80 -95%  (any LTV over 85 should have PMI)(indiv. lender std)
2) LTV 95 with PMI otherwise 80(uniform LTV std)

Publication of the notice implies invitation for public comment.  Comment
must be submitted prior to 8/31/92.  See Fed Reg for more info
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: eldred@rrunner.jpl.nasa.gov (Dan Eldred)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: 1/2" drill reccommendations
Date: 27 Jul 92 22:03:19 GMT
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory

In article <27JUL199214471497@eldyn.gsfc.nasa.gov> goldberg@eldyn.gsfc.nasa.gov (Patti Twigg) writes:
>Hi all! My husband finally killed our 3/8" drill (a fiery death, at
>that!), and he is using our neighbor's 1/2" drill right now. He
>wants to buy a new 1/2" drill, so I was wondering if anyone has
>any opinions about which brand is better - or are they all pretty
>much the same? Thanks for any help or ideas!
>                                 Patti Twigg


I have an el cheapo 1/2" drill I bought through JC Whitney (a car
parts catalog) for about $36 on sale, and it works fine.  The brand
is Bison, and the company is in Chicago, I think.  I got my
dad a Black and Decker 1/2" hammer drill for about $55 and that
also works well.  They also sell the same model without the hammer
drill function for about $10 less (the hammer drill is useful for
drilling into concrete or stucco). I actually like my cheapo slightly
better, because it is more compact.  BTW you can injure yourself with
the 1/2" inch drills because they put out quite a bit of torque. 

p.s. I got the 1/2" drill because I killed
my 3/8" drill in a smokey death.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: doshay@ursa.arc.nasa.gov (David Doshay)
Subject: Re: Water in the Basement.
Organization: NASA-Ames Biocomputation Center
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 22:24:51 GMT

In article <92205.093131JOHANN@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>, Johann Pretorius <JOHANN@MAINE.MAINE.EDU> writes:
|>   We have begun proceedings to buy a house.  It was reposessed
|> by the bank and the guy who lived in it before was apparently
|> so pissed-off that he put a hose into the basement and flooded
|> it with about 5 feet of water.  That was about a year ago.
|> 
|>   Now there are no traces of water but one can see where the
|> water level was.  The rooms in the basement (a family room
|> with a woodstove and a bedroom and some other room, maybe
|> a pantry, was all torn out by the bank.  The floor is tiled
|> with good-looking tiles.  The ceiling was torn out too.
|> 
|>   ...

|>   Thanks for taking the time.  First time buyer frenzy is
|> pretty ugly - as you can see.  But is does seem like a bargain
|> house (a dream-house according to my wife...)
            ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Do not ever fall in love with a house. You are going to be spending LOTS of 
money on it, not having sex with it. Look for practicality.

David		doshay@soma.arc.nasa.gov

The thought police insist I tell you:
my thoughts, not NASA's
From: garyp@gvls2.gvl.unisys.com (Gary Palangian)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Undercounter Ovens
Date: 21 Jul 92 21:06:45 GMT
Organization: Unisys Defense Systems, Great Valley Labs, Paoli, Pa

Hey Now Everyone,

    Does anybody have a good mail order source for
major appliances?  I need an undercounter electric
oven that can have a built-in gas stove-top above
it.  I have found a few but they seem over-priced.
I figure the mark-ups are exagerated at the dealers
because there is little call for these items (at least
for the undercounter oven).

   While we're on it, I have only been able to find 
white-on-white undercounter ovens (a feature whose
price does not justify its worth, IMO :-|).  Has anybody
seen undercounter ovens that are *NOT* white-on-white?
Manufacturer's and model numbers would be great?  

   Does anybody have opinions on Magic Chef?


   E-Mail will be summarized.

Party On,

Gary
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: TW.A51@isumvs.iastate.edu (Jim Berg)
Subject: E-mail of this list?
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames IA
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 16:53:28 GMT

POSTING FOR A FRIEND

Is this list available as mail?  I have no access to USENET, just
e-mail.  Can anyone help me?

Please post back to Jim Berg without flames.....

Thank you

Tom
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: hoefling@sp28.csrd.uiuc.edu (Jay Hoeflinger)
Subject: Re: Chain link fence
Organization: /homes/hoefling/.organization
Date: 27 Jul 92 11:15:36

>In article <1992Jul24.133121.16949@iex.uucp> danny@iex.UUCP (Danny Shaw) writes:
>
>	   I will be tackling the installation of a 4' high chain 
>	   link fence for my backyard, and not having done anything
>	   like it before, I have some questions:
>
>		   1) How far apart should the post be?
>		   2) How deep should the holes be?
>		   3) What type of cement to use?
>		   4) How does one pull the chain link tight?
>		   5) How does one install the gate?
>
>	   Basically if someone could send the installation instructions
>	   they got when they installed thiers it would be a big help :-)
>

I just finished the installation of a chain-link fence.  It was hard work,
but satisfying.  It took me three days, in which most of one of those days 
was spent trimming back bushes, hauling the brush to the Yard Waste Reclamation
Site, staking out the area, locating buried cable TV and telephone lines, etc.

It cost me about $540 for materials, and I received a quote of $860 from a
fencing company, so I saved a nice chunk.  I suggest you go to a hardware
store that sells the chain-link material and ask for pamphlets they have.
That's what I did and I got this three page instruction sheet that was all
I needed.  I did my planning based on the instructions and assembled a list
of all the materials I needed.  The hardware store people can also be quite
helpful in getting exactly the hardware you need.

The posts should be approximately 10 feet apart, but should just be evenly 
spaced.

I didn't use concrete to set the posts.  The hardware store where I went sold
some anchors that you pound into the ground at the base of the posts.  For the 
corner and end posts I used two of these anchors, one on top of the other.  This
way, I could just pound the posts into the ground, instead of digging post
holes, mixing the concrete, etc.

You need a "fence stretcher" to pull the chain link fabric tight.  I rented one
from a tool rental store.  It's just a ratchet-type device that allows you to
put tension on the fabric and pull it tight.

The gate is simple.  Just make sure you set the posts the right distance apart -
a gate sold as a 42" gate is not 42" wide, 42" is the distance between the posts.
Once you have the posts set, you simply put the hinges on one of them.

I'd be happy to answer any other questions, or give tips about installation.

Jay Hoeflinger
hoefling@csrd.uiuc.edu

Center for Supercomputing Research and Development, Compiler Group
U of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign
(217) 244-0288
--
Jay Hoeflinger
hoefling@csrd.uiuc.edu

Center for Supercomputing Research and Development, Compiler Group
U of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign
(217) 244-0288
From: ddh@a2.cim.cdc.com (Dan Horsfall x4622)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Basement venting
Date: 22 Jul 92 18:40:36 GMT
Reply-To: ddh@a2.cim.cdc.com
Distribution: usa
Organization: Control Data Systems, Arden Hills, MN

In reply to a couple of threads on "no basement drain", "no laundry
tubs", "sewer is 4 feet off of floor", etc: I saw a setup just this
past week that surprised me, but it seemed and was claimed to work
just fine.

Take one standard basement-type sump pump, and a five gallon bucket
with a lid.  Mount a drain fitting in the lid, and install the pump
"stem" thru the lid as well.  Plumb the pump into the sewer line just
like any other drain.  Connect the source (washer, whatever) drain
to the drain fitting on the lid, and strap the whole arrangement to
the wall to keep it from tipping over or "walking".

I wouldn't have believed it could keep up with a washing machine,
but he said it kept up, the only problem was that under some 
conditions a surfeit of soapsuds would work its way out through the
vent in the lid (which I forgot to mention above).

-- 
   Horse
                                       +    Control Data Systens Inc
   Dan Horsfall     +1-612-482-4622    +    4201 Lexington Ave North      
   Internet      ddh@a2.cim.cdc.com    +    Arden Hills MN 55126 USA      
        "Pi R squared?   No, Pi R round.  _Cake_ R square!"
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: leath@atlas.cs.upei.ca (Stephen Leath)
Subject: Using GFI on a 2 Prong outlet ?
Originator: leath@atlas.cs.upei.ca
Organization: University of Prince Edward Island
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1992 16:45:32 GMT

In the FAQ on electricity, it states one can use a GFI in a two wire circuit
in lieu of rewiring to three wire. I am about to do just that, but, the
instructions with the GFI state : if there is no grounding wire attached to the old
outlet be sure to provide grounding means for the new GFCI. I did read in a
previous notice that this was not nesessary, is this true and does it meet
electrical standards ? Also in the FAQ it states not to connect the ground
to anything, how does it then protect against a live casing if the
insulation fails ? Should the GFI ground be connected to the casing ?

Thanks in advance.

Steve Leath @upei.ca

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Drain vents might be clogged
Reply-To: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 92 21:51:40 GMT

In article <1992Jul22.193631.20761@Happy-Man.com> Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com writes:
>In <1992Jul22.000325.22946@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie) writes:
>
>>In article <1992Jul21.195607.16618@eos.arc.nasa.gov> phil@eos.arc.nasa.gov (Phil Stone) writes:
>
>>>I suspect that the drain vent(s) in my house might be clogged
>>>in some way.  All the sinks drain slowly, and after toilet flushes
>>>or during prolonged draining (showers, etc.), a "snuffling" sound
>>>can be heard from somewhere in the house.
>
>>Most plumbing codes require that each bathroom be vented separately.
>[...]
>>Oh - one more thing. If you have more bathrooms than vents, this is
>>not good.
>
>I don't believe the local code requires separate vents (though I could
>be mistaken on this).  Instead, if I remember correctly, there is a
>prohibition on connecting the vent pipes at any point below the lowest
>vented drain in the setup.  This way there is only one pipe to keep
>the birds from building nests in, yet none of the connections can suck
>water from any other connection.  The various vent pipes usually run
>separately up to an attic space before joining the single external
>vent.

Let me clarify. The codes in this area require that each bathroom with
a tub or shower have a separate vent. These vents may be joined within
the house above the highest drain location as described above, giving
you fewer roof openings than vents. Now. I'm not sure if the code
has changed, but the pre-1960 plumbing codes in this area did not
require that a "half-bath", that is, a room with just a toilet and
sink, have a vent.

*All* older New Jersey houses with half-baths that I have seen do not
have vents in the plumbing to those rooms. As a result, I am *quite*
familiar with that "snuffling" noise.

Local codes vary widely. I vaguely remember one area in which I lived
required that kitchens be vented and another did not.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | Society calls everything difficult good
                    | and makes everything good difficult.
                    |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: ADVICE WANTED:  Changing house outlets from 2 to 3 prongs
Reply-To: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 92 16:03:46 GMT

In article <1992Jul30.131715.9890@osf.org> neilson@osf.org (Peter Neilson) writes:
>In article <NUGE.92Jul29095030@newport.med.ge.com> nuge@newport.med.ge.com (James A. Nugent) writes:
>>In article <1992Jul29.083446.9248@osf.org> neilson@osf.org (Peter
>>Neilson) writes:
>>
>>> There are circuit testers, and there are circuit testers.  Only some
>>> can test the efficacy of a ground.  The one you have handy is not
>>> necessarily the right kind.
>>
>>	What kinds of ckt testers are available to test the efficacy
>>of a ground?
>>
>I don't own one, and haven't looked into the situation for years, so I
>can't tell you, but your electrical supply dealer (not your hardware
>store) should know about them.  They can't possibly be cheap.  The

When I wrote the original posting, I was thinking of the little light
testers that sell for about two dollars. If the light is bright, you
have a good ground; if not, you don't.     K I S S.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | "Unfair Competition": Selling cheaper than we do.
George Patterson -  | "Note and Initial": Let's spread the responsibility
                    |    for this.
                    |         Kelvin Throop - The Management Dictionary
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: egreen@East.Sun.COM (Ed Green - Pixel Cruncher)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: HELP with The World's Dirtiest Jenn-Air!
Date: 21 Jul 1992 14:10:06 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, RTP, NC
Distribution: world
Reply-To: egreen@East.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: laser.east.sun.com

In article 2393@ultra.com, wayne@ultra.com (Wayne Hathaway) writes:

>If nothing else, how about recommendations for a good degreaser?  :-(

Simple Green.  Used full strength, it cuts grease pretty well.  It
won't eat through your skin or asphyxiate you, and it's biodegradable
and environmentally friendly.

>Oh, I should point out that I know essentially *NOTHING* about how a
>Jenn-Air works, so please make any suggestions *VERY* explicit.

Take it apart just like the manual says.  If you don't have one, find a
dealer and ask to see one.  Write down the 800 number and call them up
and order a manual for your model.

There's a jar to collect the grease and keep it out of the motor, but
it sounds like that may have exceeded its capacity a while back...

---
Ed Green, former Ninjaite |I was drinking last night with a biker,
  Ed.Green@East.Sun.COM   |and I showed him a picture of you.  I said,
DoD #0111  (919)460-8302  |"Go on, get to know her, you'll like her!"
 (The Grateful Dead) -->  |It seemed like the least I could do...

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house