HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: whalen@starch.enet.dec.com (Rich Whalen)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Zefal fender hanger
Date: 23 Jan 93 20:58:28 GMT
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation


In article <1993Jan23.051517.14158@colorado.edu>, rodrigul@ibg.colorado.edu (Larry Rodriguez) writes...
>I recently had my moutain bike stolen, and with the bike went the
>fender hangers/hooks that are used to attach the newer style Mt Zefal
>fenders (the kind that can be removed by unscwrewing them from the
>hangers).  Well, I still have the fenders, but they are unusable,
>unless I can replace the missing hangers with some new ones.  Does
>anyone familiar with these fenders know if it is possible to buy
>replacement hangers from Zefal, or some other source?  I'm trying to
>avoid paying another $15, or so dollars for a complete new set.
> 

Loose Screws (12225 HWy 66, Ashland OR 97520 (503) 488-4800) has Zefal fender
hardware listed in their catalog.


>Thanks for any information.
> 
>Larry Rodriguez
>rodrigul@abacus.colorado.edu



Rich
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: border@wilbur.nas.nasa.gov (Ryan A. Border)
Subject: Re: XC-PRO shifting. Suggestions sought.
Organization: NAS, NASA Ames Research Center, Moffett Field, CA
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 93 18:55:01 GMT

doug@shako.Colorado.EDU (Doug McKnight) writes:

>My suntour XC-Pro equipped mountain bike  suffers from poor shifting. 
>Shifting into the smallest two cogs is slow and sometimes even incomplete,
>Shifting into the largest two >cogs is also slow and occasionally incomplete 
> (requiring overshifting).
>It is almost as if the cluster spacing isn't optimal for the shifting 
>distance of the mech. 
>The cluster is a 13-28 suntour winner pro 
>What is peoples experience of this group? 

Well, this is kind of embarassing, but in the interest of helping out I'll
admit it...

I had essentially the exact same problem.
Suntour XC-Pro (non micro-drive) derailleur + shifters
Suntour Winner Pro Freewheel

Crappy shifting.

I played with cable tension, lubed all my cables and housing, tried different
freewheels, chains, and jockey pulleys to no avail.  I checked the hanger
alaignment and even tried a different derailleur frame bolt.

My problem was that I had routed the cable incorrectly where it attaches to
the derailleur.  In my defence, 4 different shops looked at the bike and
didn't catch the problem either.  So, take a look at how the cable is attached
to the derailleur on a Suntour XC-Pro bike that 'works' and make sure yours
is attached the same way.  I finally discovered my problem when I was replacing
the rear derailleur: I was putting a used one on for testing and noticed that
the cable 'scores' didn't match how I intuitively wanted to route the cable.

Good luck- hope your fix is this simple.
_______________________________________________________________________________
* Ryan A. Border               border@nas.nasa.gov,   border@craywr.cray.com  *
* Cray Research Inc., On Site Applications Analyst 415-604-4633  o__ o__      *
* Numerical Aerodynamic Simulator, NASA Ames Research Center    _.>/-.>/'_    *
* Never trust someone who can count to 1023 on their fingers.  ( ) \---\(*)...*
==============================================================================*
From: king@reasoning.com (Dick King)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Loose headset
Date: 22 Jan 93 00:31:02 GMT
Organization: Reasoning Systems, Inc., Palo Alto, CA

In article <1993Jan21.193545.12413@delfin.com> neilf@delfin.com (Neil Frank) writes:
>rafael@flash.ATC.Olivetti.Com (Ralph Grundler) writes:
>: Scot Thorstad (miolnir@stein.u.washington.edu) wrote:
>: : 
>: : My headset starts getting loose about the end of every month or so.
>: : How can I cure this problem?  I ride a lot of stairs and bumps, could
>: : this be the problem? Mountain bikes are supposed to be tough, though.
>: : Has anyone had any experience with one of those gorilla headlocks?
>: 
>
>Try using Locktite (sp?)... I am not sure which color is the stronger, but
>I know from experience that it will hold a tight until your ready to clean
>it......
>

Loctite comes in three colors:

  Blue, which is moderately strong, and which you put on BEFORE you assemble
  the parts.

  Red, which is so strong that if you use it you will need a torch to remove
  it.  Bad.

  Some other color, which you ooze into the thread after assembly.

Use blue.  The red is no good because you will have to cook some vital parts to
get things apart, and the third flavor requires clear access to the threads,
which you do not have in a headset.


One thing you need to worry about: if the threads come loose because the parts
being screwed together settle, loctite will not help.  Only if the threads come
loose because the nut or bolt unscrews due to vibration or fretting will
loctite help.


The canonical example of a joint where loctite will not help is the crank/BB
spindle joint.  I do not know whether loctite is good for headset lockrings.
It's counterintuitive, but Ralph Grundler has had good experiences ...

-dk
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: sjlt@leland.Stanford.EDU (Sean Lev-Tov)
Subject: Re: Tri-bar safety
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 93 21:40:30 GMT

In article <16B5FFD69.EPLUS17@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu> EPLUS17@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu (Richard Engelbrecht-Wiggans) writes:
>>In article <74171@cup.portal.com>, JForester@cup.portal.com (John - Forester) writes...
>>>                          I have since seen some tri-bars with
>>>brake levers, but I don't know whether the bikes that carry these
>>>also have brake levers in the normal place. If so, what is the
>>>mechanism for linking the action?
> 
>I have a home designed/built aero bar dating back to the
>late 70's (yes, well before they were mass marketed.)

stuff deleted

>as I think I can ever handle in the aero position.  (If I
>had to do it over again, I might link that extra lever
>to the front rather than rear brake.)

I don't think I'd use the front brake for that.  When using your
aerobars your center of gravity is farther forward and you'd
be more likely to flip.  I think that if you're using aero bars
in the first place, you probably won't need super hard braking.
Therefore I think wiring a 3rd lever to the rear brake is the
way to go.

Sean
From: Orakel@sarpih.no (Jens Kr. Kirkeb)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Removing cranks
Date: 21 Jan 93 12:30:09 GMT
Organization: stfold Ingenirhyskole

How to I remove a crank without destroying anything?  The crank fits on a 
square, and is pressed on by tightening of a nut.  Now; to get it off, you 
should presumably remove the nut, and then pull the crank off.  Doing this 
seems to bend the (spokes?) that hold the chainrings.  Any tips anyone?

R Rostad, Norway
From: ovr@lk-hp-5.hut.fi (Otto-Ville Ronkainen)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Tubulars..
Date: 27 Jan 1993 01:52:07 GMT
Organization: L{nsi-Uudenmaan Keisarillinen Polyteknillinen Koulu
Distribution: inet
Reply-To: ovr@snakemail.hut.fi (Otto-Ville Ronkainen)
NNTP-Posting-Host: lk-hp-5.hut.fi

In article <1993Jan26.190339.27043@sol.UVic.CA> jpanusa@sol.UVic.CA (John Panusa) writes:
>I just bought a classic Colnago spec'd with tubulars,
>as I've never used tubulars, could someone offer some
>advice as to what to bring along while riding? (ie. type
>of spare tire? glue? glue container? levers? etc.)

Just bring a used spare tire. Used means one that has been glued on
and has some residual glue to hold the tire in place. If the spare
has been used a lot, ie. it has stretched considerably, it will roll
off the rim. It is too much hassle to try to glue a tub on the road,
at least Wolber-type glue remains sticky enough after the tire has
been removed. You should be able to remove the tire with your hands,
to make this easier apply glue only between every other nipple on
the rim for a length opposite the valve. Oh, and try to keep the
spare(s) dry.

>Also, any other advice that makes tubular life easier
>would be appreciated....

Depending on wealth and masochistic tendencies: a) none, b) get clinchers,
c) learn to patch the damn things.
--
Ott-Vill R______________________
ovr@snakemail.hut.fi
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tthiel@cs.uiuc.edu (Terry Thiel)
Subject: Re: Difference between Trek 2000 and 1400 frameset
Organization: University of Illinois, Dept. of Comp. Sci., Urbana, IL
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 17:51:46 GMT

Chad Burkins <CTB103@psuvm.psu.edu> writes:
>Greetings,
>  Does anyone know of any differences between the Trek 2000 and the
>Trek 1400 frameset ? I have the 2000 and my roomate has the 1400
>and we're having a bit of an argument =) (Hi Beaker).  They both
>are made of the same type of aluminum and both have the aluminum
>fork. So what's the difference ? Geometry ? The Decals ? =)
>Any guesses would be most welcome.

When was his 1400 made?  Trel changed the type of aluminum they used several
years ago.  The newer type (Easton?) is supposed to be lightly lighter and
stronger.  Also I remember the 2000 was a little less stiff in the rear
triangle than the newer Trel aluminums.
-Terry
-- 
-Terry
From: GE.DWS@forsythe.stanford.edu (Drew W. Saunders)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Dura Ace or 600?
Date: 22 Jan 1993 13:48:48 -0800
Organization: Stanford University
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: morrow.stanford.edu

In article <C18GpA.E34@cs.uiuc.edu>,
tthiel@cs.uiuc.edu (Terry Thiel) writes:
>garyb@gcm.com (Gary Blumenstein) writes:
>>Well I'm trying to decice which gruppo to get for my new Marinoni
>>frame and it's going to be either Shimano Dura Ace or 600 (with STI).
>>My question:
>>Is Dura Ace really worth the extra cost?  Several of my racing pals
>>swear by 600 saying that it's much more cost effective.  Any thoughts?
>
>Ultegra is just as light and performs as well as Dura-Ace.  I personally
>don't think Dura-Ace is worth twice the cost of Ultegra.  Ultegra is not
>as durable but Shimano is not known for being concerned about the
>longevity of their groups.  To put it another way, within 3 or 4 years you
>probably won't be able to get any parts for the current Dura-Ace.
>-Terry

You can always mix and match.  Your crank will be unaffected by any
new dereilleur and freehub designs, for example.  I really doubt
that Shimano will change their bolt circle diameter or BB spindle
taper any time soon.  You could get DA shifting/braking and Ultegra
cranks.  Don't know if you can use an Ultegra hub/cassette w/ the DA
shifting system, but that would be another option.

I currently have DA cranks, Ultegra shifters, RX100 hubs (the
weakest part of the system, probably will be upgraded to Ultegra
8-spd soon), Dia Compe brakes (really fine, I don't like double
pivot), and a Tange BB (soon to be replaced by either DA or Phil
Wood, it came w/ the Sugino cranks that the bike was spec'd with,
and is too short by a mm or two for the DA crank).

The DA cranks are very well finished too, and, at 200 lbs, cracking
cranks isn't an impossibility for me.  You get more length choices
w/ DA too (like 167.5mm and 180mm which Ultegra doesn't offer).

I hope you have fun with your new bike,

Drew
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: kiisaka@csi.uottawa.ca (Ken Iisaka (the mad pianist))
Subject: Re: Shimano and SunTour freehubs
Organization: Dept. of Computer Science, University of Ottawa
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 93 20:20:14 GMT

In article <1460064@hplred.HPL.HP.COM> jbrandt@hplred.HPL.HP.COM (Jobst Brandt) writes:
>I don't believe there will be any change because looking at the
>control plate in the shift lever, I see uniformly spaced holes.

Note that the movement of the derailleur is not a linear function of the cable
travel.  
-- 
Ken Iisaka
kiisaka@csi.uottawa.ca                     <Space for rent>
AI Lab, University of Ottawa                       <Espace a louer>
H: +1 613 237 6642  W: 564 8155
From: hpeeters@vnet3.vub.ac.be (Herman Peeters)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Pinging noise
Date: 27 Jan 93 15:32:47 GMT
Organization: Computer Center VUB

In article <C1H1sr.JFu@watserv2.uwaterloo.ca>, praetzel@maxwell.uwaterloo.ca (Eric Praetzel) writes:
> 
> In article <727984935.AA00305@f262.n620.z3.fidonet.org> ben.elliston@p1.f262.n620.z3.fidonet.org (ben elliston) writes:
> >Has anyone ever worked out what that pinging noise is when your weight is over a front wheel?  It sounds like spokes shifting.
> 
.. But most likely its the spokes.
>   - Eric 
> 
Yep, I got exactly the same problem with my new K2 after 1 month of riding.
The rear wheel spokes were much too loose after this initial usage.
I retentioned them and whoops, the irritating sound was gone.
From: sjm3@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (SALEM JON MAZZAWY)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: EMS Fork?
Date: 23 Jan 93 00:09:00 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

In article <93021.123952TOM@SLACVM.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU>, TOM@SLACVM.SLAC.STANFORD.
EDU writes:
>Greg LeMond said last year that the EMS fork was the best he had tried.  I saw
>one for sale at a bike shop for $275, which I thought was a bit high to pay
>for a fork.  I notice these expensive forks are made by Kestrel, used on their
>one-piece carbon frame.  Has anyone used this fork with a steel bike?  Or
>comments on the EMS fork in general?
>                                                 -tom
>
Yes, I do have a general comment.   I saw one of these forks break earlier
this past year on a very smooth downhill.   Let me stress that the road was
very smooth.   The thing shattered and in doing so destroyed its rider.   He
had to be taken away in an ambulence.   Local frame builder, Peter Weigle, was
there and said that he could not believe that happened.   He went on to say
that if one of his bikes every injured a person like that, he would stop
building.
                                                Salem
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: pt@geovision.gvc.com (Paul Tomblin)
Subject: Re: The Future of the Bike
Reply-To: pt@geovision.gvc.com
Organization: Not officially GeoVision Systems Inc., Ottawa, Ontario
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 17:48:45 GMT

slo@otter.hpl.hp.com (Steve Loughran) writes:

>And then there's VR - Oakley could integrate some ex-military Head-Up Display
>kit into their next generation of 'shades. These could make that journey
>into work safer and more interesting by providing real time threat assessment
>of all other road users, along with a list of possible "solutions"...

Just show me how to attach an AMRAAM or Phoenix CIWS to my bike, and I'll be
happy.  ``OC Transpo Bus approaching from behind on intersect course, engage
and destroy''

Glossary for non-sci.miltary readers:
AMRAAM: Advanced Medium Range Air-Air Missile (currently being field tested
in Iraq).
Phoenix CIWS: Close In Weapon System - those things that look like R2D2 on
the topsides of navy ships.  A 30mm canon firing Depleted Uranium rounds for
shooting down sea-skimming cruise missiles and other threats at close range.

-- 
Paul Tomblin (pt@compass.gvc.com) I don't make or state policy for GeoVision.
Usenet, n:
An invention of the devil which abrogates some of the advantages of making
a disagreeable person keep his distance. -- Paraphrased from Ambrose Bierce.
From: mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Mackintosh)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: The Future of the Bike
Date: 21 Jan 93 13:26:06 GMT
Reply-To: mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Mackintosh)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.bicycles.tech, kkrueger@cwis.unomaha.edu (Kurt Krueger) writes:
 I'd like to see an advancement on the tire.  They get flats too easily, and
 being filled with air under pressure is just an accident waiting to happen.
 Now I have no idea what tires should be replaced with; I'll leave that up to
 the bright engineers.


How about a steel band on a wooden rim?
Organization: Stanford Linear Accelerator Center
Date: Thursday, 21 Jan 1993 12:39:52 PST
From: <TOM@SLACVM.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: EMS Fork?

Greg LeMond said last year that the EMS fork was the best he had tried.  I saw
one for sale at a bike shop for $275, which I thought was a bit high to pay
for a fork.  I notice these expensive forks are made by Kestrel, used on their
one-piece carbon frame.  Has anyone used this fork with a steel bike?  Or
comments on the EMS fork in general?
                                                 -tom
From: mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Mackintosh)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: HELP! Crank length & 32 vs. 36 Spoke
Date: 22 Jan 93 14:08:21 GMT
Reply-To: mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Mackintosh)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.bicycles.tech, jamie@garfield.cs.mun.ca (Jamie Cashin) writes:
>I am purchasing a new mountain bike this week and I am trying to decide
>whether to get 175 or 180 mm cranks.  I am 183 cm tall (6' 2") but am
>mostly legs having a 91 cM (36") inseam.

I'm 6'-3" with a 38" (Holy guacamoly, Batman!) inseam and I recently
swithed from 175s to 180s on my mountain bike.  I'm still using 175s
on the road but would like to switch up there, also.  I was concerned
about my knees, too, but didn't really notice much difference.
Remember, this is less than a 3% change in crank length, not a whole
lot.  My MTB (Bridgestone) has a relatively low BB and I do bang my
pedals a bit; not while cornering (you can't lean that far off-road)
but on logs and off-camber trails or while riding in a rut.  Still,
5mm is not much different.  At your height, I would recommend the 180s
for the extra climbing power.

>I am trying to decide whether to leave the stock 32 spoke wheels on the rear,
>or go with a 36 spoke.  Both would be relatively the same price, the local

I weigh 180-190 lb and don't have any trouble with 32 spoke wheels,
on road or off.  I build my own wheels and use 14/15 ga butted spokes
with brass nipples on all of them.  The only wheel failure I've had
(other than crashes on road) is with a GL330 (tubular) rim in the back.
This rim is a little too light and the eyelets started pulling through.
I build the wheels pretty tight and usually never have to true them.
For off-road you should use at least 2.1" tires; if your spokes are
tight enough you shouldn't have any trouble.

David Mackintosh
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: yschin@ccu.umanitoba.ca (Yu-Shin Chin)
Subject: Re: WD-40 To Clean Chains???
Organization: University of Manitoba, Canada
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 20:45:46 GMT

In article <1993Jan23.155237.1@vax.sonoma.edu>, vannuysd@vax.sonoma.edu writes:
|> In either Bicycling or MBA, I read an article that suggested using WD-40        
|> to clean your bike chain.  I tried it and really liked the results.  But        
|> in the current California Bicyclist, there is an article by a mechanic          
|> who tosses off a warning NOT to use WD-40 without giving any rationale.         
|> I liked the ease and effectiveness of WD-40.  Anybody know where this guy       
|> is coming from in warning us off of it?                                         
|> 

I used to use WD-40 to clean and oil my chain, until one of the bike mechanics told me that it was a bad idea.  The problem being that WD-40 is a solvent and will remove the lubricant from within the joints of the chain.  So now I only use it to clean the chain prior to lubricating with syn-lube.

sam
From: mly@adoc.xerox.com (Richard Mlynarik)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Locking into Time pedals
Date: 22 Jan 93 04:00:20 GMT
Organization: ITS Preservation Society

In article <1993Jan22.003114.80983@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu> sjm3@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (SALEM JON MAZZAWY) writes:

   >I recently upgraded to '91 Time criterium pedals and racing
   >shoes.  The problem is locking into them!  It mabe just me but I'm
   >having a devil of a "time" getting a quick lock-in.  Any
   >suggestions??  Oh, the cleats are the newer small style.
   >
   
   time pedals seem to have a breakin period.  Mine took a few months
   till it was really easy to get in.  Once you reach this stage, the
   performance is well worth the wait.

Wow!  Just like a Brook's Pro saddle!
Are you sure it isn't your feet "adapting" themselves to the shape of
the cleats?  Is there some ritual daily application of grease needed
during the break-in period?  Will you tenaciously retain that one
special, broken-in pair of pedals for years and years?
From: sl1yn@millville.declab.usu.edu (869483 Denys Larry)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Selle Italia Flite saddle
Date: 26 Jan 93 19:26:36 GMT
Reply-To: sl1yn@millville.declab.usu.edu(869483 Denys Larry)

In article <1k3lpsINNa1q@overload.lbl.gov>, chris@carnival.lbl.gov (Chris Moll) writes:

|>A 150lb. friend had his Flite bottom out after a month or so of riding.
|>So I sold mine to another, 160lb. friend :-)
|>


  I would like to know if this was road or mountain riding, and in 
what weather conditions.  Mine has been used for almost four thousand
miles on the road and its still fine.  I weigh 150 lbs.


Larry Denys
sl1yn@paradise.declab.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: praetzel@maxwell.uwaterloo.ca (Eric Praetzel)
Subject: Re: news
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 13:26:40 GMT

In article <1993Jan22.194025.1@vax.sonoma.edu> vannuysd@vax.sonoma.edu writes:
>in the current California Bicyclist, there is an article by a mechanic
>who tosses off a warning NOT to use WD-40 without giving any rationale.

WD-40 will attract dust due to its charge (or so some bio-eng. people tell
me).  So if you have any mechanical joints I would keep the stuff far away.
Basically it makes for a good mech. laxative but for lubrication in wet 
conditions I would recommend a real oil/grease.
  - Eric 
From: jbrandt@hplred.HPL.HP.COM (Jobst Brandt)
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 19:38:51 GMT
Subject: Re: The Future of the Bike
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories, Palo Alto, CA