HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Morten Mortise and Tenon Jig
Date: 31 Aug 92 18:01:00 GMT
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Distribution: na
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated

Nobody's yet described how the thing works, so here goes:

Bascially, the jig consists of a right angle plate, a template plate, and a 
5/16" diameter straight bit (1/4" shank) with a bearing above the cutting 
edges. You clamp the workpiece to one face of the right angle plate (or to a 
wood fence attached to the plate), positioning it such that the center of the 
mortise of tenon is aligned with a scribe mark on the template plate. You 
plunge the bit through the template into the work, with the bearing riding 
against the template plate. Reportedly, this is somewhat tricky without a 
plunge router.

For mortises, the template plate has a hole with rounded ends. For tenons, you 
have to cut in two passes, cutting 1/2 the tenon and flipping the plate to cut 
the other half. Since you can enter the tenon cut from the side of the piece in 
most cases, it's less tricky than the mortise cut. Essentially, this is 
template routing. 

Nobody's really pointed out that the Morten jig only makes M&T joints of a 
single size (I believe it's 3/8" wide by about an inch or so long). I suppose 
you can vary the length of the tenon by not placing the workpiece up so close
to the template plate.

For the $45 it costs (mail order) you can buy the bit (< $20) and make your own 
template plates to cut any size mortise/tenon you want, however, you will have 
to do some fiddling with the template to get the tenons and mortises to match 
so well (important if the joint is exposed).

The Morten Jig would be more useful and a better value, IMHO, if PC made the 
plate larger, with a number of differently sized joints on it.
From: bds@mbunix.mitre.org (Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bottom Line-Which Table Saw Is Best?
Date: 4 Sep 92 18:55:33 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: The MITRE Corporation, Bedford, MA


I just wanted to say that Bennett makes a number of excellent points,
including the fact that no one saw is a universal solution, and that
there are many excellent table saws to choose from.  Further, if you
have to choose between precision and power, the choice is not always
obvious.  It ultimately depends upon what kind of work you want to do.
For example, there was a 10" saw that was incredibly precise but had a
small tilting table which made it difficult to cut large pieces of
wood.  If you never cut large pieces of wood, this saw would be the
best saw for you at any price (in fact, it was very expensive--Inca
products always are).  If all you build are small things, choose
precision over power (a small 10A motor will do the job).  If you cut
a lot of sheet goods, you need a large table but again you don't need
a lot of power (a 10A motor will do fine).  On the other hand, if
you're ripping 12/4 maple or oak on a routine basis, and the boards
are never more than 8 inches wide, you need the big 20A motor, but you
don't need a fence that allows 50" cuts to the right of the blade.

This, of course, is personal comment.  There are people who rarely use
any of their equipment and never build anything more difficult than
shelves.  Yet these people may have $10K in woodworking equipment, and
get tremendous pleasure out of looking at it all, touching it, and
showing it off to their friends.  There are others who have the same
$10K worth of equipment, and who use their equipment to build many
wonderful things.  Personally, I believe that tools are means to ends,
and that the joy of owning a great piece of equipment lies in the
things you build with it.  If you're in the first category, make sure
you buy the biggest name brand machine with the right paint job.  If
you're in the second category, please follow Bennett's guidelines.
Just a personal comment.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: doshay@ursa.arc.nasa.gov (David Doshay)
Subject: Re: Plans for wooden boats
Organization: NASA-Ames Biocomputation Center
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 16:56:17 GMT

I just spent about 1/3 of a vacation that was supposed to be devoted to canoe
construction doing canoe construction. I got my plans and construction details
from

	Building a Strip Canoe
	Gil Gilpatric
	De Lorme Publishing Co
	PO Box 298
	Freeport Maine 04032
	(207) 865-4171

I modified the supplied plans somewhat.  I think the book cost $14, plus
shipping. It comes with 1/2 scale plans for 8 different canoes and instructions
on plan modification and how to copy an existing canoe. The also sell full 
size patterns, I think for $25. My numbers could be old.

I have no connection with the above other than having bought the book.

David		doshay@soma.arc.nasa.gov

The thought police insist I tell you:
my thoughts, not NASA's
From: dak@biosys.apldbio.COM (David Knorr)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: fence suggestions?
Date: 26 Aug 92 16:28:55 GMT
Organization: Applied Biosystems, Inc., Foster City, CA


Greetings.  Just discovered this group, don't know how much traffic it
gets, but I thought I'd try to solicit opinions about table saws and fences.

I'm setting up a shop for redoing a kitchen and a few other storage
cabinet-type projects (closets, bookshelves, etc.).  I'm thinking of
buying a Delta contractor's 10" table saw with a 52" unifence.  I know
the 30" is adequate for most jobs, but I wanted the longer fence for
those times when it would be nice to make larger cuts.  The main
question is what are the pros and cons of the unifence vs the
Biesmeyer or something like the Excaliber?  Any other advice would be
appreciated.

Thanks,
Dave Knorr
dak@apldbio.com
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: BANDSAW INFO REQUIRED
Date: 2 Sep 92 13:08:43 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <16854D761.M21605@mwvm.mitre.org> M21605@mwvm.mitre.org writes:
>In article <3760@ecicrl.ocunix.on.ca>
>clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis) writes:
>>       What you think is "reverse engineered" is often
>>the very same tool off the very same assembly line - differing only in paint
>>job or minor details like type of power switch.  Now, Delta may be doing
>>*some* Q/A, and selecting the better quality ones, but that doesn't necessarily
>>mean that any off-brand unit you see is a Delta reject - it could just as easily
>>be a unit surplus to Delta's ordering level.

>>Rexon is one of the largest companies, and a lot of its tools end up with
>>Delta nameplates.  I have a Rexon scroll-saw, and the only difference between
>>it and the Delta is paint job and nameplate.

>>Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
                                                  ^^^^^^
>True, Delta does put there name on Tiawanese trash, but even Powermatic is
>marketing a junk line now.

On the contrary, many of the Taiwanese-made tools are perfectly good.
Certainly most of them are on the low end of the price scale, but if you're
looking for less-then-commercial use, or use well within their capabilities 
they're perfectly fine.

While an Excalibur scroll saw would have been really great, my Rexon works
perfectly fine doing the things I want it to do.  And costs less than 1/5th
of an Excalibur.  I had a choice between not doing it at all (at no
benefit to my countrymen), or doing it with an off-shore unit.

A General table saw would also have been nice, but even a used one was
*way* out of my price range.

>    I should add for the record, the Delta 14" is US made and
>the castings are done in Wisconsin.  Most of Delta's US made tools use
>Brazilian castings made using tropical rainforest wood for the coking
>process.  If you are like me, you might want to check with the factory
>on the origin of the castings on the product you are considering before
>unknowingly helping to defoliate the rainforest and unemploy our countrymen.

On the other hand, tools made in the US frequently use electricity from
coal-fired power stations in their manufacture, which is acidifying *our*
lakes.

Do you really think I care that much about employing *your* countrymen?

Idiot.  "Made in America" might as well be "Made in Taiwan" as far
as I'm concerned.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: acuff@sumex-aim.stanford.edu (Richard Acuff)
Subject: Re: water-based varnish
Organization: Stanford University
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 16:27:14 GMT

In article <117373@muvms3.bitnet>, rcbi27@muvms3.bitnet (DBRUM) writes:
>  It's true that you'd be crazy to try and apply
> it as thickly to a woodworking project as I did to the pane of glass (it
> would take fifty coats!), but still it gives a good indication of the
> actual clarity of the substance when dry.

I'm not so sure of this.  Given what little I know of how various finishes
cure, I could imagine that a very thick layer could behave very differently
from several thin layers.  For instance, the inner parts of the material would
have less exposure to air.  There might also be changes in the physical
structure of the material as it dries that could be not a problem for thin
layers but change optical properties for thicker layers.

	-- Rich

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: vesper@2plot.mro4.dec.com (Andy Vesper)
Subject: Danish Oil -- good enough for outdoors?
Reply-To: avesper@mr4dec.enet.dec.com
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 18:05:56 GMT


My brother-in-law purchased some outdoor furniture and
finished it with Watco Danish Oil finish. I expressed
doubts as to whether or not that finish will hold up
outdoors for more than a few weeks. However, reading a
can in a store, I found that it isn't just an oil, but
does contain resins.

Do I have to eat my words, or should I still recommend
something on top of the oil finish? The can said that
polyurethane could be place on top -- will water-based
poly be OK or would it be better to use the older type
with organic solvents? Is there a better finish for on
top of the oil finish?

Thanks, Andy V
From: ron@pilot.njin.net (Ron Natalie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Dove Tail Jigs
Date: 4 Sep 92 13:54:59 GMT
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

> Riobi and there seems no easy way to adapt the guides
> from my old Sears router for the Riobi.
>	Anyone know of other guides are available
> for a Riobi router?

Actually, with a little whittling and hot melt glue I got the guide
from the Sears (Vermont American) cheap dovetail jig to work just
fine with my Ryobi R501 router.  Ryobi makes a smaller guide collars
than 7/8" too.

-Ron
From: david@talgras.UUCP (David Hoopes)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: need belt sander recomendation
Date: 2 Sep 92 12:41:55 GMT
Reply-To: david@talgras.UUCP (David Hoopes)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Tallgrass Technologies Inc.

In article <920831175524@wraith.netops.contel.com> powell@wraith.netops.contel.com (Mike Powell "GTE FSD Net Mgr") writes:
>I am faced with having to sand several boards, that are bonded together,
>flat on one side.
>Not wanting to enjoy this task too much by hand sanding, it looks like
>a belt sander is my best option. Only one problem, I don't have one. 
>
>What to buy? 
>Suggestions are welcome.


I just bought a Ryobi (sp).  It was middle of the line price wise.  I
looked at several differant brands.  They range from $50 (not heavy
enough to use as a paper wieght) to about $300.  

The Ryobi was $149.  It takes 2x21 in belts.  That seemed to be the most
commonly available size belt.  At least in the hardware stores around here.
It has a good feel to it and some really nice 
features.  It has an adjustable speed control that comes in handy.  One
very interesting feature is that the top is flat.  It is designed so that
you can turn it upside down and set it on the bench.  For those of us who
don't have room for a table mounted beltsander, this is a great idea.

good hunting.


-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------
David Hoopes                              Tallgrass Technologies Inc. 
david@tallgrass.COM                       11100 W 82nd St.          
Voice: (913) 492-6002 x323                Lenexa, Ks  66214        
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bednarek@picard.med.ge.com (Dennis Bednarek Mfg 4-6971)
Subject: Re: new/old oak
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 92 09:37:19 GMT


I just finished a dresser, originally oak about 1920's with a missing 
drawer.  What worked for me was stripping and bleaching the old wood
till it was as light as the new wood.  Took about 4 gallons on stripper
and 2 gallons of bleach.  Aftertwards I sanded the old wood, stained
everything Min-Wax Special Walnut (about the lightest walnut I could
find) and sprayed three caoats of liquid plastic finish.  The only
thing is the grain pattern that only a trained eye can notice is 
different.


--

  
###############################################################################
###NEVER - NEVERMORE###########################################################
###############################################################################
####################################What are the contents of the oblong box?##
###############################################################################
  The usual disclaimer of self and employer applies to all above comments.
#
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 4 Sep 1992 13:39:53 CDT
From:         Jeff Roberts <JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Advice about workshop tools
              4 Sep 1992 12:30:08 GMT from <bdr@CBNEWSG.CB.ATT.COM>

On Fri, 4 Sep 1992 12:30:08 GMT brian.d.reed said:
>In article <1992Sep4.121225.8765@icd.ab.com> korsberg@kirk (Ed Korsberg)
>writes:
>>
>>Will the table saw "behave" or work differently when its cold
>>(eg 38 degrees F) than warm (90 degrees F) ?
>
>I'm not sure about the saw, but I believe you would!
>
>Seriously, I wouldn't want to operate dangerous machinery with
>my senses and muscles dulled.
>
> Brian D. Reed    bdr@cbnewsg.cb.att.com


Texas believe it or not can get pretty darn cold, I haven't had any problems
with running the equipment, but I also use a kerosene heater which can be
harmful without good ventilation.  If I start typing like this (nipshoekaifoles
lekpord) I didn't have the garage door opened wide enough last night.

Jeff Roberts jroberts@utdallas.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stevep@lugh.se.hou.compaq.com (StevePinnDick)
Subject: Re: Water and Wood: A beginner's question
Organization: Compaq Computer Corporation
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 16:03:56 GMT

In article <1992Sep1.013038.27132@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com>, billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson) writes:
|> brill@unagi.cis.upenn.edu (Eric Brill) writes:
|> : 
|> : I'm new to woodworking.  This weekend, I tried to make a maple cutting board.
|> : I edge glued two pieces of 4/4 maple together, and then routed a cove along the
|> : sides.  I finished the piece with a nut-oil finish.  Then came the problem.  I
|> : figured that I had better raise the grain and sand it down again so when I gave
|> : the board away it would remain smooth after washing.  So, twice I briefly
|> : soaked the board in water and sanded it down.  I later noticed that this caused
|> : the board to cup considerably.  Could somebody please tell me what I did wrong?
|> : If the water caused the board to cup, how can I raise the grain without causing
|> : this to happen, and how can I protect the board from cupping when the future
|> : user decides to wash it?  Thanks,
|> 
|> Did you finish the entire board, or just one side, with the not-oil finish?
|> Usually,  boards cup when they dry unevenly. If only one surface was finished,
|> then that surface would not dry as fast as the other, and the board will tend
|> to cup toward the unfinished  surface.
|> 
|> You can reduce cupping by using quarter-sawn stock.
|> 
|> To raise the grain, you do not need to soak the wood, only dampen it with
|> a cloth. You do this before applying any finish. Once all the grain is raised
|> and sanded smooth, then you apply the food grade finish. Apply the finish to
|> all surfaces. 
|> 
|> Tell the user not to soak the board in water. Wash it with a soap filled
|> sponge, then rinse as briefly as possible.  If the board is sealed properly,
|> a quick wipedown and rinse on occasion is all that will be necessary. It
|> also will be necessary to renew the finish periodically - depending on how
|> much it is used.
|> 

|> Bill

Eric, Bill is dead on with his suggestions the only thing that I would ask is what type of adhesive did you use?  For cutting boards it is wise to use a glue which can take a wet environment : Titebond II, Urea, etc.

Steve
From: SDOGGETT@cmsa.gmr.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Help w/ paste wood filler
Date: 31 Aug 92 13:54:42 GMT
Organization: GM Research Labs

From time to time, I've been experiencing a problem when using paste wood fille
r.  The problem is scratching thesurface when removing the filler.  I'm allowin
g it to dry until the "wet look" is gone.  I've removed it with the recommended
method of burlap across the grain.  This causes the least amount of scratching.
  Another method is to use a credit card as a scraper.  It's an easier way, yet
 is more likely to scratch.  My guess is there's abrasive in the filler it's s
elf.  Does anyone have any advise?  Also, there are times when the filling proc
ess it's self just doesn't seem to fill the grain.  I never notice this, of cou
rse, until I spray the lacquer.  I'm tempted on trying a spray saning sealer in
stead.  Thank you in advance for your help.

Spencer Doggett
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Brass Dip Cleaners
From: jocon@tribiet.maintech.com (Joe Connors)
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 92 18:48:19 PDT
Organization: Tribiet: A city much like hell.

        I have a great deal of brass hardware from furniture
pieces that is coated with tarnish and grime. As the pieces are
intricate, and it would be tedious cleaning and polishing all the
detail areas, I am looking for a dip that will do the work for
me. I would appreciate any leads or products or chemical
solutions you might know of. Thanks!
 
 
                                Joe Connors
                                Carlsbad, CA
                                (619)431-9028
 
What is the sound
of one hand clapping?......:)
 
================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: guy@slustl.slu.edu (Guy Smith)
Subject: Re: repairing a column
Keywords: wooden column antebellum
Organization: Saint Louis University  Saint Louis, MO
Distribution: rec
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 13:50:17 GMT

In article <1992Aug21.221022.28866@banana.fedex.com> claude@banana.fedex.com (claude bowie) writes:
>my question is what is the best way to repair the column? should
>i take measurements and send my specs on how i want it repaired to 
>a company that makes columns?
If you haven't already done so, check out Old House Journal, which has
numerous articles on such topics (I think there was even one in the
not-to-distant past on restoring rotted columns but I may be mistaken).
There is also a "services" section in their classifieds and they sell
a "catalog", updated yearly, with sources for all sorts of hard to
find old house stuff. If you are going to do it yourself, you will
probably want to look into epoxy putties such as those sold by Abatron.
One of their blurbs shows it being used for column restoration. I don't
have the address handy but they advertise in OHJ. If you can't find OHJ
in your library or wish to subscribe (which I recommend to all old housers)
write to:    Old House Journal
             P.O. Box 58105
             Boulder, CO 80321-8015
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: Smoothing edges from a table saw cut(HOW?)
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 00:13:14 GMT

abbott@priory.enet.dec.com (Robert Abbott) writes:
: > 
: >A jointer is the easiest method. If you make a good cut on your
: >saw, it would only take a short time to smooth the edge with a
: >hand plane. You should not have to "straighten" the edge - if you
: >do, then your table saw is not set up right.
: > 
: >If you have a table for your router, it is possible to use it to
: >edge joint your work piece. It is not nearly as easy as with a
: >jointer.
: > 
: >Bill
: 
: Remember that he is working with plywood !!
: You should be able to make exact cuts on your table saw. This
: is especially important when working with plywood since you 
: can not use a plane or router to finish the edge. 
: 
: Running plywood through a jointer is a bad idea. It's a great way
: to dull your blades. I would expect problems with splintering as
: well, just like when you try to use the router.

I have no problem using either a jointer or router on plywood. True, since
I don't have carbide blades for the jointer, they dull fast when working on
plywood. I use solid core plywood - maybe that reduces the splintering. I
also tack on a backing to protect the edge - or work both ways. 

Maybe I have just been lucky. Anyway, I prefer to make the finish cuts on
the table saw - using jigs, if necessary. 

Bill
From: milt@sdd.hp.com (Milt Fisher)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Collect'm, Trade'm
Date: 4 Sep 1992 12:38:38 -0700
Organization: Hewlett Packard, San Diego Division
NNTP-Posting-Host: hp-sdd.sdd.hp.com

In article <1992Sep3.153611.22339@cs.ucf.edu> clarke@acme.ucf.edu (Thomas Clarke) writes:
>Have a Craftsman Bench-Top Table Saw trading card (#17).
>
>Am willing to trade for Band Saw.
>

Why??



-- 

Milt Fisher - Hewlett Packard, San Diego Division
milt@sdd.hp.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: Incra jigs
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 00:18:40 GMT

kevin@cs.adelaide.edu.au (Kevin Maciunas) writes:
: 
: The only down side to the 'pro that I can see is that the little
: plastic ruler *can* be accidentally moved while the jig is in (clumsy)
: use.  I have "road tested" the 'pro only on a 12" saw table at the
: distributor's show room - so it might just be me using "alien" tools!
: Any 'pro users out there able to give some feed back on this?
: One thing that did show up tho' was the fact that the kerf on the 12"
: saw was 3.5mm.  My saw has a 1/32" kerf which matches the jig nicely -
: so I can do finger joints painlessly on the table saw as well as the
: router.

1/32" inch kerf? I didn't know you could get one that fine. Most of my
blades are either 3/32 or 1/8 inch.

Bill
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 31 Aug 1992 08:55:28 PDT
From:         BALDWINJ@SJSUVM1.BITNET
Subject:      new/old oak
              29 Aug 1992 23:39:33 GMT from Shaw Moldauer
              <shaw@HPFCSO.FC.HP.COM>

From: Jeff baldwin
It is not quite clear what you need to make your match. Old wood and new wood
are cut differently. A visual match between flat sawn and quartered oak is
impossible. Are the boards to match cut the same way? Originally many oak
pieceswere treated with ammonia before finishing but in order to match the new
and old your best bet would be to wash coat the new work with dilute laquer
and use alaquer compatable stains to approximate the color of the old work.
The wash coat will stop out the stain allowing for greater control.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking