HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu (John Snyder)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Cure for Moles?
Date: 6 Jan 93 10:38:39 GMT
Article-I.D.: fs7.C0FHKG.Crw
Organization: Physics Department, Carnegie Mellon Universtiy

In article <98960001@misty.boeing.com> karen@misty.boeing.com (Karen Robinson) writes:
>
>Go to the Garden department at McLendon's hardware in Renton.  There
>is a person(woman) there who will recommend the right kind of trap.
>
>Buy several (it will cost you some, but you MUST get ahead of the
>moles soon or you will never defeat them!).  
>
>Carefully set your traps IN THEIR MAIN RUNS (not necessarily near the
>mounds).  Check traps daily.  If the traps spring without catching a
>mole, reset and keep at it until you learn proper trapping technique.
>
>You probably have more than one mole already--don't delay if they are
>active (though with the ground frozen this could be tough on both you
>and the moles).


I missed the beginning of this thread, so please accept my apologies if
what I'm about to say has been said before or is irrevelant to the case
at hand.  But...

Often you can coexist with moles.  I had one living in my garden.  From what
I have read, I gather that they eat underground insects, not my crops
(do they eat earthworms too?  I think I remember that they do, but I'm
not sure.)  Anyway, at first, I kept plugging up his holes, and in a few
days, he kept digging them out again, so I decided to let him be.  He
lived in my raised bed, and had a front door on one side, and a back door 
on the other side.

I could coexist quite happily with him as long as I didn't make mountain
out of a molehill (sorry, I couldn't resist).

John
snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: dorisl@shrooms.ingr.com (Doris Lippert)
Subject: Burpee strawberry bush tower
Organization: Intergraph Corporation, Boulder, CO
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 18:47:55 GMT


I've been contemplating buying a Burpee strawberry bush tower.
It's this wood pyramid which you fill with dirt and can grow
strawberries or whatever in on your patio.  It's 2 feet tall and
2 sq. ft. at the base.

Has anybody had any experience with growing strawberries this
way?  Good or bad?
Also, have you seen this in any other catalogs? Burpee's costs $80,
which seems a little high.
The tower comes with 50 TriStar (I think) day neutral strawberries.  Is
this a good strawberry for the Front Range of Colorado?
Can I expect many strawberries in the first year?

Doris
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: richter@gpu.utcs.utoronto.ca (C. Richter)
Subject: Re: epazote
Organization: UTCS Public Access
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 04:11:59 GMT

In article <1993Jan12.000445.7782@lgc.com> jrm@lgc.com (John Moore) writes:
>Does anybody know where I can get seed for some "epazote".
>
>It's an herb that looks like cilantro but tastes much different. 
>
>The herb is used in tortilla soup, corn husk, chilaquiles, and the like.

Isn't it great.  I got to love it when I lived in Guatemala for a few 
months.  It is also known as "American wormseed" because it was used as 
a vermifuge.  Botanical name is _Chenopodium ambrosiodes_.  

We have seeds available: Packet/$1.25, 1g/$7, 10g/$29 (Canadian funds). 


-- 
Conrad Richter                     richter@gpu.utcs.utoronto.ca
Richters Herbs                     71550.3411@compuserve.com
Goodwood, ON L0C 1AO Canada        Tel 416-640-6677 / Fax 416-640-6641
From: smiller@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Sara Miller)
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 21:15:02 GMT
Subject: Re: Need help on locating English roses in the Bay Area....
Organization: HP Corp Computing & Services
Newsgroups: rec.gardens

> Roger Reynolds in Menlo Park was expecting (I think) 8 or 9 varieties when I 
> checked them before Thanksgiving.

I was just there last weekend and they did have the David Austin roses.  

Sara Miller
smiller.corp.hp.com
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: bhaskar@brtph181.bnr.ca (Shaji Bhaskar)
Subject: Re: Source for Holy Basil
Organization: BNR Inc. RTP, NC
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 01:58:39 GMT

In article <29170@oasys.dt.navy.mil> cusanell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Dominic Cusanelli) writes:
>
>   I'm interested to know more about this holy basil.  I've
>never heard of it.  Could you give me a little info please.
>Thanks.

This is a plant that grows to about 2 feet, with small, aromatic
leaves and fairly boring bunches of flowers (forgive my ignorance of
scientific terminology). The stem and leaves turn reddish in good
light.  I seem to remember that the scientific name has something to
do with "holy".

The plant has special significance in the Hindu religion.

Someone recently requested me to locate a source for this plant, and I
thought someone on the net might know where I can find it.

PS: my email service seems to be disrupted, could anyone who sent me
mail about this please post their messages?  Thanks a lot.

-Shaji.
-- 
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Shaji Bhaskar     BNR, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709     (bhaskar@bnr.ca) 
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: nguyenpd@ntmtv.UUCP (Phat Nguyen)
Subject: Need help on locating English roses in the Bay Area....
Originator: nguyenpd@nmtvs315
Reply-To: nguyenpd@ntmtv.UUCP (Phat Nguyen)
Organization: Northern Telecom Inc, Mountain View, CA
Distribution: ba
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 19:56:36 GMT

Hi,

Do any of you know any nurseries in the South Bay that sell English
roses?  Thank you very much in advance.

Phat
From: rcm@col.hp.com (hpctdfc)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Source for castor beans?
Date: 6 Jan 1993 22:02:27 GMT
Organization: where?
NNTP-Posting-Host: hpctdfc.col.hp.com

clarke@acheron.uucp (Ed Clarke/10240000) writes:
> Does anyone have a source for castor beans?  I want to plant some this

Henry Field's Seed & Nursery Co.
415 North Burnett
Shenandoah, Iowa 51602
1-605-665-9391

Castor Bean 5735-181  $1.98


Hope this helps...
Rick
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: sharen@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com (Sharen A. Rund)
Subject: Re: Fuchsia seed pods
Keywords: fuchsia, seeds
Organization: Lockheed Missiles and Space Co.
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 93 20:48:40 GMT

In article <C0CHHw.Ftu@lysator.liu.se> ceci@lysator.liu.se (Cecilia Henningsson) writes:
>I have a fuchsia on my window sill. It flowers all the time and on the
>whole I'm very satisfied with it. Currently it has a seed pod that I
>was thinking of using. It is turning red and swollen so I think it's
>ripe now. 
>
>My questions are: 
>
>* Do I have to do anything with the pod before I can sow it?
>
>* How many seeds are there normally in a fuchsia seed pod? 
>
>* How true will the babies be to the parent?
>

since you have a fuchia, and probably prune it, take the pruned pieces,
shove them in dirt & keep the dirt moist - they'll sprout new roots and 
be ready for planting in a short time

-- 
________________       __        ________________   "They that can give up
\_________      \     /_ \      /      _________/  essential liberty to 
 \_________      \_____/  \____/      _________/  obtain temporary safety
  \___________________      __________________/  deserve neither liberty 
                     /______\                   nor safety."  
ALL disclaimers apply ....                           --Benjamin Franklin
From: jjwt@imagen.com (Julia Tien)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: bromeliad questions
Date: 12 Jan 93 20:53:30 GMT
Expires: Saturday, 23 Jan 93 00:00:00 EST
Followup-To: jjwt@aqm.com
Distribution: usa
Organization: imagen

I recently acquired a few bromeliads--Cryptanthus "Ocean Mist" and
a couple from the Tillandsia family, and would like information on
care and feeding.  

Most of the tillandsia I've seen have been quite small (1"-2"), have 
been mounted on wood or rocks and don't seem to grow.  Is that because
they're not getting enough nutrients just stuck on a rock with no
soil?  Do they grow in soil or do they just rot?  Would foliar feeding
help or would I end up with an overgrown tillandsia monster?

I'd also appreciate any pointers to references on bromeliads, particularly
these species.

Thanks!
Julia
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: ceci@lysator.liu.se (Cecilia Henningsson)
Subject: Re: Naked Ladies
Organization: Lysator ACS at Linkoping University
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 14:45:45 GMT

rodger@rand.ORG (Rodger Madison) writes:
>Otherwise known as Amarylis Belladona.  I have been propogating these from the
>seeds which form each year and have had good success getting the
>plants started.
>Does anyone know:
...
>	2 - Are these the source of the infamous poison?

If the name _Amaryllis_belladonna_ is correct, no. The name of the
Belladonna plant is _Atropa_belladonna_. _Atropa_belladonna_ is a
fully hardy perennial with dark purplish-brown, nodding, campanulalike
flowers and black berries. The leaves and the thick root were used.

--Ceci
--
=====ceci@lysator.liu.se===========================================
"Where is the mythic archetype who will save us from ecological
 catastrophe or credit card debt?" 
                    Ian McDonald in _King_of_Morning,_Queen_of_Day_
From: loftis@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Kirk Loftis)
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 16:44:59 GMT
Subject: Re: Preparing Clay Soil for Planting
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.gardens

I appreciate what you are going through.  

My builder put fill dirt on top of an Orchard.  They did this to elevate
the land so that we were no longer in a flood zone (they also made a
tall cement brick wall where the property is adjacent to the creek and
one existing neighbor {their property is about 5 feet lower than ours}).

I have broken three rakes (I recommend buying Craftsmen tools from
Sears, they replaced the rakes) while attempting to rake away the rock.
I have moved over five cubic yards (that is CUBIC YARDS ) of rock.  This
is a shit load of rock.  I am now in the process of adding amenties
(compost, gymsum, top soil dirt, fertilizers, etc).  Right now I have
muddy back yard (all the rain in California - of course we break the
drought year when I have to a lot of yard work and I have no plants yet
to water).  

My neighbor paid a landscaper to put down a lawn and sprinklers.  This
cost him over $8k.  All they did was lay down sod and water.  Now I look
at his backyard and it is spotty yellow already (no nutrients in the
soil).  Up, you can have an instaneous yard, but that won't last.  Take
your time and do it right.  You will have a better lawn for years to
come, while the neighbor attempt to correct the problem later on, of
course spending more money to do it.

I look at working in the yard as fun and a workout.  Instead of having
to pay a gym for weight-lifting, I can take my pick axe, shovel and rake
in the back yard and get a good workout - by the way, I have put on five
pounds of muscle in the shoulders, arms and back by doing this in just
three months.  It would normally take me over a year to put on at much
muscle.

Remeber to wear goggles while using a pick axe against rock.  There are
many sparks a flying and chips of rock that could get in one's eye.

I just planted three trees in the backyard (Apricot, Cherry and Pear),
things are going along pretty well in my mind.  By this summer, I should
have a nice looking lawn and trees with greener, not bad.

Good Luck, Kirk
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: hnoble@eskimo.com (Henry Noble)
Subject: Cure for Moles?
Organization: >>> Eskimo North (206)-FOR-EVER <<<
Distribution: pnw
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 03:25:03 GMT


Suddenly our yard is beset by a mole.  Ugly mounds in the
vegetable garden and the lawn.  We tried some old-gardener's
tale remedies but none have worked.  The one that slowed
the little bugger up for a while was to pour urine in the
tunnel; but it isn't lasting.
Does anyone know a sure-fire method for encouraging the mole
to go to my neighbor's yard?
Thanks
-henry
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Worms and Home Composting in Winter
From: bmoon@eis.calstate.edu (Bruce A. Moon)
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 13:23:51 GMT
Organization: Calif State Univ/Electronic Information Services

For wormbins, our county solid waste department recommended one of the
Rubbermaid storage containers that are similar in size to the commercial
ones. Seems to me they poked holes in the lid.
From: rees@qut.edu.au
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: re: Worms and Home Composting in Winter
Date: 5 Jan 93 17:10:58 EST
Organization: Queensland University of Technology

I live in subtropical Australia. The native worms here are not at all suited
to vermiculture ("worm growing"), and therefore it is standard practice to use
imported "Europian" worms, in particular -

Red wrigglers, or red worms (rubricus rubellus, from memory)
or Tiger worms (eisenia foetida)

- which I believe are the most common worms for worm-composting the world over.

Here are a few worm-raising guidelines:
1) Allow plenty of drainage. Worm bedding should be wet enough that you can
   squeeze a few droplets of water from a handful
2) Try and keep the ph roughly neutral. Mix in some ground limestone (NOT
   garden lime or quicklime!) with their feed. You can be quite liberal.
   This keeps the feed from `souring'.
3) Feed them a relatively small amount at a time (if it starts to rot/ferment
   before they get to it they will likely get `sick') and be thoughtful about
   what you put in as feed. Throwing in large chunks of food is a bit silly,
   as it will need to decompose by microbial action before the worms can digest
   it and it is likely to sour their environment while doing so. Half rotted
   compost (with lots of lime) is ok.

   Some feeds they really seem to like are:
   Any kind of manure
   Coffee grounds or tea leaves
   Cereals
   Grass clippings

4) The worms will reproduce very quickly (especially if you are feeding them
   manure. You only need 50 or so to begin with. Remember they reproduce by
   colliding, so if you want them to breed, you should keep them fairly
   constricted - don't go putting 50 worms in a huge expanse of bedding
   material.

The vermicompost the worms produce is extremely high in available nutrients,
although you can use as much as you like without any chance of burning the
roots of the recipient plant. In short, great fertilizer, and a great soil
conditioner.

Hope this info is useful to someone!

Darryl Rees
Queensland University of Technology
d.rees@qut.edu.au
From: Bob.Batson@mtask.omahug.org (Bob Batson)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: purple passion roses
Date: 03 Jan 93 14:00:19 CST
Reply-To: bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org
Organization: Multitasking Systems, Kansas City
Followup-To: rec.gardens

lp@well.sf.ca.us (Lily Pond) writes:

 > I saw on the Rose Bowl Parade that they've introduced a new purple rose
 > deeper than the Sterling Silver. Anyone got a lead on a source?

I'm sure the TV announcers said that it wouldn't be released until `94.

        
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: richter@gpu.utcs.utoronto.ca (C. Richter)
Subject: Re: Source for Holy Basil
Organization: UTCS Public Access
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 06:49:43 GMT

In article <1993Jan3.043202.6363@brtph560.bnr.ca> bhaskar@brtph181.bnr.ca (Shaji Bhaskar) writes:
>
>Some time ago, someone had posted the address of a mail-order source
>for this plant.
>
>Can someone email me this information or post it?  Thanks a bunch.

There are two basils that are sold as "holy" basil in North America. 
The first is what is more properly called "sacred basil" is _Ocimum sanctum_.
It comes in several forms, including purplish and greenish forms (which are 
otherwise much the same).  This basil is probably the one most commonly grown 
in India at temples, and is the one used in "prasad."   Its flavour and 
odour is quite pleasant. 

The other "holy" basil is a hybrid between _Ocimum canum_ and _O. basilicum_
(the common sweet basil) with a strong spicy flavour.  To avoid confusion with 
the true sacred basil, we call it spice basil.  It too is recognized as sacred 
by Hindus, but it is not as common as_O. sanctum_.  

Both varieties are available from several herb outfits in the States.  We 
carry seeds for both, and we ship to the U.S.  


-- 
Conrad Richter                     richter@gpu.utcs.utoronto.ca
Richters Herbs                     71550.3411@compuserve.com
Goodwood, ON L0C 1AO Canada        Tel 416-640-6677 / Fax 416-640-6641
From: time@ice.com (Tim Endres)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Currants and White Pines?????
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 93 15:57:03 EST
Organization: ICE Engineering, Inc.
Reply-To: time@ice.com (Tim Endres)
X-Mailer: uAccess - Macintosh Release: 1.6v2

I want to plant some currants and gooseberries but have been told
that they carry a disease called blister rust that is fatal to white
pines. Can anyone tell me more about this ? I do not want to kill
the pines in the area. Is there a way for the 2 plants to co-exist
? 


tim endres - time@ice.com  (UUCP: heifetz!tbomb!time)

USENET - a slow moving self parody... ph
From: jhb@calmasd.prime.com (Jim Bishop)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Amer Hort Soc
Date: 12 Jan 93 01:00:48 GMT
Organization: -

In article <1993Jan8.160202.21991@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>, kls@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Kenneth L Shellberg) writes:
> Received in the mail yesterday a membership offer from the American
> Horticultural Society.  I am leaning toward joining, but thought I
> would check the collective wisdom of the net first.  If you are or
> have been a member, is the membership worth the price? ($35).
> 
> Ken
> 

You get a nice magazine and tax deduction.  The seed exchange program
some times offers some interesting seeds.  Unfortunately most of their
programs etc., are centered around Washington D.C.  The biggest
negative is they send you all this brochures for really expensive
cruises that take you to garden spots around the world.  The cruises
seemed aimed at very wealthy retirees.

Jim
From: award@farside.auspex.com (Andrew Ward)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: What spring plants should I start now, in SF BAY AREA.
Date: 11 Jan 93 22:03:55 GMT
Organization: Auspex Systems

I live in the SF bay area. I can start my spring plants now in a special
lighted room. 

WHAT PLANTS SHOULD I START NOW, INSIDE, IN FLATS FOR EARLY TRANSPLANTS?

Tomatoes
Lettuce?
Broccoli/ Cauliflower
Any others?

Thanks!

-Andrew
From: richter@gpu.utcs.utoronto.ca (C. Richter)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Lavender dentata
Date: 10 Jan 93 19:04:21 GMT
Article-I.D.: gpu.C0nJnA.17B
Organization: UTCS Public Access

In article <726623235.1@altern8.mi> Val.Gillman@altern8.mi.org (Val Gillman) writes:
>I saw this on Victory Garden when they were in Australia. I'd
>like to grow it in a pot. Anyone know where I could get a plant
>or seeds?

Seeds are not available commercially, but plants are.  It is confusingly 
called both "Spanish" and "French" lavender (while _L. stoechas_ is called
"French" or "Spanish" depending on what _L. dentata_ is called). 

We have plants for both _L. dentata_ (the green form) and _L. dentata 
candicans_ (the gray form).  

By the way, we also carry the true sacred or "holy" basil (_O. sanctum_), 
as well as the more commonly sold "holy" basil hybrid which we call "spice"
to avoid confusion (_O. canum x O. basilicum_).  Most seed and herb 
companies in the U.S. are selling the latter form as "holy" basil, but it 
is not really as authentic as the former.  Both are available in seed form. 


-- 
Conrad Richter                     richter@gpu.utcs.utoronto.ca
Richters Herbs                     71550.3411@compuserve.com
Goodwood, ON L0C 1AO Canada        Tel 416-640-6677 / Fax 416-640-6641
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: dietz@cs.rochester.edu (Paul Dietz)
Subject: Re: House plants turning yellow
Keywords: house plant yellow
Organization: University of Rochester
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1993 02:48:19 GMT

In article <1993Jan10.022755.29623@cbnewsk.cb.att.com> mparks@cbnewsk.cb.att.com (michelle.lim) writes:

> Why do house plants start turning yellow?
> I was told I could be overwatering or undrwatering
> them.  How do you tell if you're over or under
> watering?  I water once a week.

We've heard various watering tips.  Yellowing is also a symptom of
various nutrient deficiencies, particularly of nitrogen.  Have you
been fertilizing?  What are the houseplants growing in?  Something
like peat + vermiculite/perlite would not store many nutrients.

	Paul
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: ljz57640@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (l.j.z. )
Subject: Re: Source for Holy Basil
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 03:29:30 GMT

bhaskar@brtph181.bnr.ca (Shaji Bhaskar) writes:

>In article <29170@oasys.dt.navy.mil> cusanell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Dominic Cusanelli) writes:
>>
>>   I'm interested to know more about this holy basil.  I've
>>never heard of it.  Could you give me a little info please.
>>Thanks.

>This is a plant that grows to about 2 feet, with small, aromatic
>leaves and fairly boring bunches of flowers (forgive my ignorance of
>scientific terminology). The stem and leaves turn reddish in good
>light.  I seem to remember that the scientific name has something to
>do with "holy".

>The plant has special significance in the Hindu religion.

I have had experience in working with Holy Basil, and I think I should
warn you that the stuff has quite an, um.... "unusual" odor to it.  Not
a lot of people like it, and I am one of them.  We sold it at the greenhouse
I used to work at (whoever ordered it ordered *way* too much of it), and the
back room reeked of Holy Basil, and nobody ever wanted to go back there.
It looks a lot like regular Basil, except the flowers tend to be darker in
color (kind of a deep purplish-brown).  The main difference between Holy
Basil and the other Basils is the odor, and also the flavor to a degree.
Different people have different reactions to Holy Basil.  Some like it,
some don't.  It's really up to whoever buys it.  Just be prepared for a
surprise!  

Ta,
--L.


-- 
"Push the button, Frank!"
-----------------------------------------------------------------
laura j zurawski    juniper@uiuc.edu      visualize whirled peas
From: karenp@sybase.com (Karen Paulsell)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Pond underwater plants
Date: 8 Jan 93 02:19:48 GMT
Organization: Sybase, Inc.

In article <1993Jan6.003327.7567@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu> dmiller@theory.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller) writes:

>What plants do help with is to absorb some of the waste products of fish, 
>thus keeping the pond from getting to nutrified (provided that some of the 
>weed are harvested from time to time).

My house came with a rather greenish little concrete pondlet, a real
bonus, with water lilies and goldfish too! I didn't do a whole lot
of maintenance, just fresh water, etc., and didn't worry too much
about the greenishness, although visiting friends were always
fretting about fish-suffocation. Which never happened, I kept telling
them it wasn't that badly algaed-up!

This year, the "Parrot's Feather" that I planted a couple years
ago really took off, and the pond is the clearest it has been in
the four years I've lived here: I think that's it's because the
plant is competing with the algae for the nutrients. Opinions?

I figure I'll have to add a bunch of it to the compost pile, truly,
because it's gonna fill up the whole pondlet if I don't look out!
(The hard part is disentangling it from the chicken wire that keeps
the racoons from eating the fish.)
From: carolyn@bucket.rain.com (Carolyn Peterson)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Catalpa tree
Date: 11 Jan 93 03:08:49 GMT
Article-I.D.: bucket.carolyn.726721729
Distribution: usa
Organization: Rick's Home-Grown Un*x



I'm looking at our cold, frozen, snowy yard and making plans
for spring planting.  One thing I'm considering adding is a
catalpa tree.  Are there any negative points that I should be
aware of?  Is there a specific variety anyone can recommend?
We live near Portland, Oregon.

I want a deciduous tree.  30-40 feet high, with big leaves
(faster to rake in the fall).  It will be about 10-12 feet
from a sidewalk and 10-12 feet from a patch of lawn..

Any help will be greatly appreciated!


-- 
Carolyn Peterson
carolyn@bucket.rain.com
Newsgroups: rec.gardens