HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: For my next trick...
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 92 22:38:15 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Thursday, Nov 19 17:38:09
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-> Making a rally car out of an old six banger may surprise you.
-> When you compare it to some of the european engins of simular
-> and smaller size of those days you might find yourself way
-> outclassed.

 A Ford or Chevy six ain't much - particularly when compared to the old
Chrysler slant six with the Hyper Pak four barrel - but they had an
advantage in cubes over the European engines of the '50s and early '60s.
Heck, remember the Nash-Healey?  Anyway, the only Euro sedans which
would have been potent enough to take on one of Bill Stroppe or Ak
Miller's Fords would have been the Jag sedan or one of the Mercedes or
BMW sixes.  Since they were a bit expensive and parts availability
wasn't great, nobody ran them.  If you'll check the results for big
rallies like the Carrera Americana or Mexican Road Race you'll see the
names of many of the old time hot rodders.  Alas, drag racing and the
short ovals managed to draw most of the competitors away from the
rallies and offroad races.  SCORE just ain't much compared to Outlaws or
the NHRA.


-> cars.  I think you would be better off sticking to the brute
-> torque V-8's of american origin unless you want to spend 1.000's

 V8s weren't offered in the small sedans at the time.  I believe the
Falcon was the first, with the 260, in 1963.  The Chevy II and Lancer
didn't get theirs until later.


-> and not get anywhere.  Why don't you think the american manufactures
-> didn't get big on rallies back then?

 Beats the snot out of me.  Ford, GM, and Chrysler's European and
Australian divisions put a lot into rallies, but rallying just hasn't
ever caught on over here.
                                                                                    

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Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: After market fuel injections
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 92 06:18:25 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Tuesday, Nov 17 01:18:20
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-> I'm running an IMPCO EFI on my Cougar. A very good unit IHMO. 4" MAS,
-> temperature, ignition trigger. runs upto ~475Hp.

 Are these the same people who make the propane valves?  Do you have an
address?
                                                                                               

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Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: WANTED: Non-corrosive EP lubricant additive
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 92 22:48:13 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Thursday, Nov 19 17:48:04
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My understanding is that EP additives are corrosive to bronze/brass and 
therefore, shouldn't be used in manual gearboxes.

I've heard that using regular motor oil in the gearbox provides better 
synchro action, resumably from higher friction there with the motor 
oil.  However, I'm concerned that motor oil will shear-down under the high 
local gear tooth loads in the gearbox.

Hence, I'm interested in the brass-corrosive properties of available EP 
additives.  I 've heard that the sulfur and/or phosphourus in some EP 
additives is the corrosive agent.

Any ideas?

(BTW, this is part of my quest for the notchy shifing in my 92 Eclipse GSX.  
I'm using Redline MTL, and it's better, but I'm looking for even better.  
I've talked with someone who has gone from the standard Mitsubishi tranny 
oil to Redline MTL and then motor oil and he has seen improvements with each 
change.  (That is, motor oil results in less notchiness than the MTL.))
|////////////////////////////////////////////////|
| Pete Paraska       (paraska@oasys.dt.navy.mil) |
| David Taylor Model Basin, CARDEROCKDIV         |
|\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\|

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Posted by: emory!oasys.dt.navy.mil!paraska (Pete Paraska)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject:  Administrivia
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 92 08:27:40 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Thursday, Nov 19 03:27:32
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tomorrow (thursday afternoon) I'm off to the Performance Racing Industry
show in Cincinnati.  Be back Sunday.  Hotrod list postings  will get 
processed as I have time to dial in.  Wish me luck..

73 John

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Posted by: hotrod@dixie.com
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: For my next trick...
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 92 05:16:23 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Wednesday, Nov 18 00:15:59
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For a while now I have had the hot nut for a period rally car. Over the last 
few years, vintage racing of all sorts has become popular, including rallying. 
Most vintage events allow period modifications along with modern safety gear.

During the sixties, American compacts were used in stage rallies around the 
world, notably the Trans-Africa Safari Rally.  While watching a video of that 
rally, I spotted some hopped up Ford Falcons and AMC Ramblers in full rally 
gear competing against the best English and Italian sports cars.

The mental gears started turning. One could build a "rule book" hotrod
rally car for a relatively low outlay and still have a street-legal and 
usable ride.

Start with a decent "grandma" car: 4 door compact, say a Mercury Comet or 
Rambler American. Look for a straight six so as not to be classed with
the mega-power V8s. Add a roll bar and racing seats and harness. Voila,
budget rally car. In historic competition the emphasis is on fun, not
winning at all costs (usually).

I know Offenhauser stills sell speed stuff for those engines. Has anyone had
any experience with Clifford Research? Their motto is "6=8".
--
Dave Tartaglia    indy@immacc.prepnet.com             === ZZ-|O\- .. _   
                                         VAROOOOM!......=(_)-=======(_)===

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Posted by: Dave Tartaglia <emory!immacc.prepnet.com!indy>
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Torque converters and axle ratios
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 92 16:29:28 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Tuesday, Nov 17 11:29:22
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Wow is there confusion on these simple parts.
well I give them a shoot at making them fairly simple.

Start with the cam shaft.  Most cams advertise an rpm range,
that is fairly accurate.  Example 2,000 to 5,000, or 2,700 to
6,000 or even 3,500 to 8,500.

Now looking at which torque converter will gove the best
performance look at the lower RPM of the cam and match that to
the converter Stall speed.

Next rear axle ratios.  Look at what you expect your car to
be able to do in the 1/4 mile as far as ET.  Taks this ET
and divide it into 1300 to get aproximate top speed needed.
example 10 seconds at 130mph or 13 sec at 100mph.  Now match
you top rpm listed for your cam with your tires and axle ratio
to hit that speed at that many rpm's.  More detailed formulas
were priorly posted.

Now for the street person.  Advice do not use an exotic cam.
Stock cams alow stock converters that usually last longer.
Advice 2 unless you own an oil company use the formula as
above for rear axles only add that axle ratio to 3.23 and 
divide by two to give you some compromise, on economy and
performance.

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Posted by: emory!picard.med.ge.com!bednarek (Dennis Bednarek Mfg 4-6971)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: Transmission For Ford 302
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 92 07:11:03 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Tuesday, Nov 17 02:10:58
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Toploader 4 spd if you want a manual.
Mike Brattland

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Posted by: emory!nprdc.navy.mil!brattlan (CDR Michael Brattland)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re:  Uneven Fuel Distribution
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 92 04:54:22 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Tuesday, Nov 17 23:54:06
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 I found a 305 newer-model Chevy to be having these problems from a poor
intake manifold seal; the runners were drawing from the interior of the
engine, pulling in oil splash and excess air. Dog 'em down. I found the
intake bolts to be too loose to read on the torque wrench when I started.

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Posted by: emory!mlb.semi.harris.com!jws (James W. Swonger)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: Transmission For Ford 302
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 92 06:29:14 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Tuesday, Nov 17 01:29:07
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>Note: avoid the FMX, for several reasons. Wont go into it here, email me if
>you need to know!
I recently picked up a rest-project '69 mustang with an FMX.
I would like your info on why they are bad.

thanx,
jeffreyr
BTW thanx for the good info on the C4!

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Posted by: uunet!uts.amdahl.com!jeffreyr (Jeff Reichenberg)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: Transmission For Ford 302
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 92 08:54:58 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Monday, Nov 16 03:54:51
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 > 
> also.. regarding torque converters... what does the stall speed mean and
> generally speaking the higher the stall, the better? 

Yes on a nitro dragster that turns 10,000+ RPM's.  Basicly the stallspeed
is the amount of rpm's the engine will be cranking when it is
power braked on the starting line.  This should corespond with
the peak torque of the engine.  The higher the stall speed usually the harder
it is to keep a vehicle streetable.

 (what are the
> drawbacks?)
Poor shifts when not under full power, engine needs to run a high rpm
almost constantly.  Not great on the street but great with a wild cam
on the strip.
> 
dennis

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Posted by: hotrod@dixie.com
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: After market fuel injections
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 92 04:25:03 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Sunday, Nov 15 23:24:56
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> 
> There are several other brands.  Accel, Crane, DFI, Haltech, Electromotive and
> a few from England whose name I cannot remember.  The packaged units
> such as from Edlebrock or Crane are IMHO grossly overpriced.  This stuff
> should be only marginally more expensive than carburated versions.
> 
> John

I have a little experience with Electromotive's electronics...  I strongly
reccomend against them.  They have a lot of features for a relatively good
price, but they are very finnicky about voltage, ambient temp, and such,
and their tech support is about the worst I have ever dealt with.
Another EFI controller I've used is made by a company called EFI, which
is somehow related to NOS.  It's a race computer, kind of expensive, and
to my knowledge isn't available for public consumption yer, but we've
been very happy with it.

-- 
Jon Lusky
lusky@gnu.ai.mit.edu

 79 Rx-7 12A/Holley 4bbl
 67 Camaro/350/4spd (under construction)
 89 Jeep Wrangler/258 (currently self destructing)

[Not trying to dispute your experience with Electromotive because I know
a lot of people have had problems but once the problems are worked out,
it brings a couple of things to the table that no one else has that I'm
aware of.  The major problem is the crank sensor.  Trash the supplied
sensor and install a Hall Effect unit (Microswitch makes several 
suitable ones. )  In my experience that completely eliminates a bunch
of flakeyness.  I've always had good luck calling in to talk with 'em
and that was before I became "the press" :-)

The big win is the electromotive being an integrated engine management
system that includes spark control.  It uses the direct ignition scheme
whereby each pair of cylinders has its own coil and there is no 
distributor.  One can program whatever ignition map is needed to make
the engine live on available gas and the late model units take
feedback from a knock sensor.  The late model units also take feedback
from a lambda sensor and is mostly self-tuning.

I would NOT recommend the Electromotive system for someone looking for
a turnkey setup but if you're willing to fix the warts, it is a good
deal for the money.   JGD]

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Posted by: emory!gnu.ai.mit.edu!lusky
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re:  HEI distributor swap
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 92 04:04:41 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Sunday, Nov 15 23:04:35
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Looking for an HEI for a '72 Caprice is a walk in the park!  One thing that
Chevrolet was/is good about is interchangability of parts...  as far as
physically "fitting" any distributor that they have ever put into a V-8
will work.  [there's always an exception ;-) the Raised-Block truck engines
will not work]  Basically, all you need to do is go down to your local
shit-yard and find a clean-looking HEI unit out of a chevy by-product.  Check
the mechanical workings and overall "feel" of the unit.  [around here you 
will pay around $35 to $40 for one, complete with cap and rotor.]  Toss the
old cap and rotor and buy the Accel units for ~ $20.  Get some new plug wires
[the wires for HEI and points ignitions are terminated at the distributor 
differently- and the stock HEI coil cranks out around 40,000 volts as opposed
to the typical 10-15,000 for standard points-ignition coil.]  Really the
only other thing you have to do besides sliding the unit in and getting the
timing right is to take the battery lead (the + from the points coil and 
connectorize it for the HEI unit and plug it into the "BAT" terminal on the
HEI.) and bypass the ballast resistor used with the points ignition.
Ummm... I think that's about it...   the format here is a little sloppy
but that should cover it...  Oh, yeah, you will probably want to regap your
spark plugs to .040 or .045 or so.  My experience has shown me that going
with 1 heat range cooler spark plugs works well also.  Just a little
commentary about the HEI swap:  one thing that the factory HEIs suffer
from is serious lack of mechanical advance.  In the mid-to-late seventies,
low compression smog motors were commonplace, and a natural consequence of
this is distributors with little mechanical advance and tons-o-vaccum 
advance!  If you can, find a distributor from a "performance" car...
but remember you will probably be running a _lot_ more initial advance than
you ever did with points.  (I run around 18-19 degrees btdc in my present
beater...)  Just something to note.  Whatever you do, don't throw away the
factory weights that come with the HEI; if you want to recurve it, just
get an aftermarket re-spinging kit and re-use the factory weights.  If 
you use the cheezy weights that come with the aftermarket kit, you will
most likely loose even more mechanical advance!!!  Anyway, I hope this helps
and if anything isn't clear don't hesitate to ask!
JC.
jca@fibercom.com

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Posted by: emory!fibercom.com!jca (James Akers)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Bending a rear axle on purpose...
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 92 17:29:16 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Monday, Nov 23 12:29:10
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Hi.
I race an '86 Mustang. I talked to a former competitor who
suggested bending the rear axle in a frame jig, to dial in
some negative camber and a little toe-in.
    Does this sound feasible? I'm not a gear-head. It sounds
like there might be some hell to pay inside the differential,
but I don't know.

joe


[Circle Track magazine did a spread on this a few issues ago.  Seems it is
(or was until the NASCAR rulemakers could act) the hot thing going in
NASCAR.  You wouldn't actually bend  the axle but the axle carrier.
If you use a stock, live axle, be prepared to join the axle of the week
club.  If you use a floating hub, several specialty shops have spherical
end axles and hubs so the axis can be shifted and the axle itself not
stressed.  JGD]

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Posted by: emory!Sun.COM!sybase!joe (Joseph Weinstein)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: Transmission For Ford 302 
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 92 23:13:00 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Wednesday, Nov 18 18:12:57
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> Newer Ford trannies use "Mercon" which is Ford's way of saying "DexronII/
>GM was right", I guess. ATFs have different friction modifiers to work 
>with whatever the clutch material is, and these friction modifiers can
>make a big difference in the clutches' engagement and holding power.
>
>----------
>Posted by: emory!mlb.semi.harris.com!jws (James W. Swonger)
> 
  I recall reading in some fluids specifications book that the
differences between Dextron and Ford type F were as follows:

       Dextron:  As pressure is increased on the clutch packs,
                 the co-efficient of fricton of the fluid 
                 decreases.

       Type F :  As presure is increased on the clutch packs,
                 the co-efficient of the fricion of the fluid
                 increses.

Note:  I'm not at all knowedgeable about the dynamics of different 
        fluids.  This is just what I read......

  Now, does anyone know how to tell the difference between Dextron and
type F?  I query this because I just installed a used C-4 from a 
salvage yard.  I've been told that you can use dextron where type F
was used, but not vice-versa.  I also heard that these fluids are not
compatible, i.e., don't mix.  
  I filled the unit with dextron, and it seems to work just fine.  I
just don't want to R&R this sucker again.

   What about the ford C-5?  Guys at the trans shop say that it was a 
"nobel effort" at a Heavy Duty version of the C-4.  

-> Bob
  --> ravalent@mailbox.syr.edu


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Posted by: emory!mailbox.syr.edu!ravalent
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: Uneven Fuel Distribution
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 92 23:32:00 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Wednesday, Nov 18 18:31:56
X-Sequence: 2783
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 > 
> Hi, I have a '83 Firebird with the Chevy ZZ1 350 H.O. motor. It runs great 
> except it only gives me about 10 mpg city and highway. I checked to make 
> sure that the power valve is not broken. I also downsized the main jets 
> two steps. Air filter is almost new. Now when I pulled all the eight sparks,
> I found out that six of them, except the #7 and #8, were very badly 
> fouled by carbon deposit.

That's usually the first to plugs that have shown me any problems
on any of my small blocks.  I like to check them and if they look bad
then it's time for new plugs.  Also sounds loke your not doing
much highway driving.  You may want to try 2 numbers hotter plugs
if that's true and you still get carbon foul.

> When idling the motor gives 15" Hg vaccum and a 
> little bit of roughness.
> Today I talked to a technician from Cagle Fuel Contral, where I am going 
> to order a so called "smart fuel regulator"(HRM Jan, 1992), which is 
> basicly a fuel regulator modulated by manifold pressure.

They're a waste of money, believe me. seem to cause a lot of high speed
missing do to loss of fuel pressure, or raw fuel.

> I was told that 
> the bad distribution is quite typical for GM V8, and I have to either buy 
> another aftermarket intake manifold or I pull out mine and try to polish a 
> little bit to improve the distribution, and also their regulator will 
> greatly improve my gas milage.
> Well, is there any similar experience and any comments on these.

Well how mmany miles are on that engine.  If there arn't to many
maybe a trip to the nearest dyno will give you an accurate jet for
your mill and the proper plugs for each cylinder.  How is the oil
consumption?  Maybe perfect circle seals is what you really need.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Jizhong
> 
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Posted by: hotrod@dixie.com
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod