HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: rulon@ibms19.scri.fsu.edu (Phil Rulon)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Cold = Super braking power?
Date: 30 Sep 92 19:34:00 GMT
Organization: SCRI, Florida State University

msingh@silver.ucs.indiana.edu writes

>Thinking about this more, I came across another interesting little
>tidbit. Whenever I'm at a light with my foot on the brake, the car
>idles roughly. If I take my foot off the brake (Not that I'd be on the
>brake if there was no incline...) the engine idles more smoothly.
>
>I have yet to hear anyone give me a good explanation on that little
>problem.

Sounds a little like a manifold vacuum leak to me.  The power break servo is
intake vacuum driven.  The rough idle bit is the givaway, if there was a leak in
the servo diaphram, when you hit the break it would bleed air into the intake
and run lean.  As to the temperature bit, I'm not so sure, if it was an intake
manifold gasket the expansion during warmup might change the geometry enough 
to cause a leak.

good luck, P

Phil Rulon                                   rulon@mailer.scri.fsu.edu
Supercomputer Computations Research Institute
Florida State University
Tallahassee                                  audio  (904) 644 7008
From: michaeln@hpcvnb.CV.HP.COM (Mike_Nason)
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 92 03:39:16 PDT
Subject: Re: incurable brake shimmy
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Corvallis, Oregon
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

   This is a for what its worth answer. 
First, have you checked the run-out on the wheels?
How about the outer edges of the tires?
How about the circumference of the tires? (out of round)
   Part of it could be from a broken belt in a tire.
Also, you could have flat spots in the tires from the last time you
had to do a panick stop when some kid on a bike road out in front of you. 
Last but not least, you could have a wheel bearing thats starting to die
or is just a little loose amplifing a balance problem. 
As far as that goes, you could have a suspension part thats a little too
worn amplifing something else too. 
   You might what to find a suspension shop that can spin up each wheel 
separately and check the balance on the "complete" corner. They might be
able to spin each wheel up individually and apply braking  to isolate
which corner is causing the problem.  If its one corner and all of the 
wheels have been balanced, try switching tires....then run it again. If
its still there that rules out the tires and wheels. Then you can start
on the rest of the suspension. 
   I have seen rotors out of balance. You person did a complete brake 
job, balanced the wheels and tires and had a massive out of balance problem.
We found the problem this way.   Mike Nason

From: jburrill@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com (Jim Burrill)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 17:53:46 GMT
Subject: Re: engine swapping and etc.
Organization: Hewlett Packard - Boise, ID
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

/ hpdmd48:rec.autos.tech / shyguy@ocf.berkeley.edu (David S. Shy) /  7:53 pm  Sep 27, 1992 /

David Shy says:

>I've got a 1978 Pontiac Le Mans.  It's got quite a bit of mileage on it
>already.  Although it is in relatively good condition, it is no longer
>worth anything since it is the base model and it is not exactly a     
>collector's item.

>I would like to keep this car for at least another six years.  (I find that
>the local law enforcement doesn't look at me when I speed in it whereas all
>my friends w/ the "sporty" looking cars are getting tickets left and right :)

>It's got the carburated 3.8 L V6 and an automatic transmission.  I am 
>considering swapping in a V8 (remanufactured or otherwise) and junking
>the automatic and replace it w/ a manual (not exaclty sure where to get
>one at the present moment)

You didn't mention if you would rely on the car for transportation every day
or not. Since you mention the possibility of keeping it only six more years,
you may be using it for everyday transportation.

I own a 1978 Buick Century (Cousin to your Le Mans), also with the same 
engine/trans combo. I can't brag on the power, nor the fuel economy for a V6
as both should be better. I can see why you are wanting a V8. I've seen some
pre-smog small V8's that do better in both departments. (Ford 289 most notable)

Anyway, what I would do if I were wanting to conver to a V8: Call around to 
junkyards and see if I could find any of the "A body" (Century/Cutlass/LeMans)
cars with a V8. Some came with 301 (Pontiac) while others came with 305 or 
350 (Chevy). There may be a few with the Olds small V8, but I am not familiar
with them. You'll need to buy the whole car to use the front end parts (Coil  
springs) and the mounts for engine and trans. You may be lucky enough to find
a Monte Carlo or some other car equipped with the sport package of a 4 speed
manual. If so, you'll need the trans too. Go down to your GM dealer and order
a new engine (I saw a 350 on a stand at the Chevy dealer here in Boise for
$1150). You'll also need the driveshaft from the junkyard car, and perhaps the
rear end as well, since the V6 rear end may not handle the torque from a 350.
You'll need all the clutch linkage, too.     
     My advice: forget the manual transmission. Too much trouble. Find the
later "Ported" heads from early 80's 3.8L engines, and have your motor 
rebuilt using these heads. They gave better fuel economy and power. Find a 
later carb and intake (Preferrably 1980, no computer). Find a better CAM
(Milage Maker or some brand name) and rebuild your own motor . This should
make a pretty good improvement over what you have now, without the expense or
time required to find all the other stuff. Especially if you drive it all
the time. 

Jim Burrill
jburrill@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com
From: rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com (Bob Rusk)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Engine Swap
Date: 2 Oct 92 19:20:21 GMT
Reply-To: rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com
Organization: Harris Computer Systems Division

On Fri, 2 Oct 92 16:44:03 GMT, psanders@ll.mit.edu (Pete Sanders) wrote:

>David Shy says:

>>I've got a 1978 Pontiac Le Mans.  It's got quite a bit of mileage on it
>>already.  Although it is in relatively good condition, it is no longer
>>worth anything since it is the base model and it is not exactly a     
>>collector's item.

>>I would like to keep this car for at least another six years.  (I find that
>>the local law enforcement doesn't look at me when I speed in it whereas all
>>my friends w/ the "sporty" looking cars are getting tickets left and right :)

>>It's got the carburated 3.8 L V6 and an automatic transmission.  I am 
>>considering swapping in a V8 (remanufactured or otherwise) and junking
>>the automatic and replace it w/ a manual (not exaclty sure where to get
>>one at the present moment)

>	I have a 1980 Monte Carlo that originally had a 3.8L V6. I paid $200.00
>for it without an engine or tranny. The body had about 35K miles on it. I was
>not interested in installing a V6 ( after seeing how long the last one lasted).
>I hapened to find a 1979 monte carlo auto with a V8 that had been broad-sided. The car had 23K miles on it. It cost me $400.00. I installed some performance parts on the 305 ( cam, intake manifold, 4bl carb )and swapped it into the 1980 Monte without any problem. Of course this was a Chevy to Chevy swap. As far as the front springs, don't worry about it. Those 3.8L V6s are not much lighter than a small block Chevy V8. My car rides just fine with the V8. It doesn't bottom out or ride too low. The rear
>n your car is the same 10 bolt that a V8 model would get ( maybe a different ratio). I have over 90K miles on my car now and I drive it pretty hard. I've had no problems with rear end or any part of the drive train in any way.

You should probably upgrade the radiator as well.  My father-in-law had an
'81 Cutlass V6 that he had a 350 (Olds, I think) installed in.  The car 
couldn't be kept from overheating, and I could never convince him to put 
in a bigger radiator.  He finally overheated it once too often and when he
sold it it wasn't running ...

Also, that 350 had a higher water pump shaft and fan than did the V6.
The bozo who installed the engine just cut out the top of the fan duct
and removed the underhood insulation pad for clearance, but you may
end up needing an electric fan if you don't take your engine out of another
car from the same family.

--
--
 Bob Rusk
 rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com
 My thoughts, probably not Harris'.
From: jmiller@afit.af.mil (Jeffrey C Miller)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: What kind of belts 'n hoses do you use?
Date: 7 Oct 92 00:24:52 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Air Force Institute of Technology
Originator: jmiller@wb12

Looking for some net.wisdom on good/bad brands of v-belts and
radiator hoses...anyone have any particularly good or bad
experiences with a certain brand?

My automotive winterization projects await you replies...I'll
summarize if there's sufficient interest...

Jeff


-- 
Jeff Miller,  NH6ZW/N8,  AFA1HE (ex WD6CQV, AFA8JM, AFA1DO)
AFIT School of Engineering, Wright-Patterson AFB, OH
"You gotta expect some losses when you fly the heavies, man" -- Jeff Conn
"No brain, no pain" -- filched from some new movie promo
From: bruno@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Bruno Melli)
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 17:00:26 GMT
Subject: Were are the springs ?
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

I was looking at the front suspension on a current model toyota 4runner
and couldn't see springs anywhere.
Anybody cares to explain how that suspension works, 
or where the springs are hidden ?

Thanks,

bruno.
From: borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 14:34:26 GMT
Subject: Re: HELP...Brakes don't work
Organization: Hewlett Packard Company, Spokane, Wa.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

In rec.autos.tech, JJ Serowik <JJS158@psuvm.psu.edu> writes:

>I have a '77 Honda Civic and I am having problems with the brakes.  It seems
>that I am only getting mechanical contact on the front drivers side disc, I don
>'t know why this is the only one working.  If I pump the brakes really fast
>sometimes they all will work but only rarely.  When only the front one
>is working the brakes have no power boost on them??????  I think it's probably
>the booster, as I have bled the shit out of them all, all to no avail,

It's probably not the booster.  Even without the booster, your brakes will
work, it just take more force on the pedal for the same amount of braking.
Assuming you don't have a leak (the brake fluid resevoir isn't going down,
is it?), then your problem is the master cylinder.  I don't know your car's
system, but there are many systems designed for diagonal braking, such that
the right front and left rear are one one circuit, and the other two wheels
are on the other braking circuit.  Typically, only one circuit goes out at
a time when the master cyclinder goes bad.


Donald Borowski    WA6OMI    Hewlett-Packard, Spokane Division
"Angels are able to fly because they take themselves so lightly."
                                       -G.K. Chesterton

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: q1hl@jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca (Nameless CS Student)
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure Relief Valve ?
Keywords: oil pressure
Organization: University of New Brunswick
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 1992 07:55:28 GMT

In article <1992Sep26.161552.26984@wdl.loral.com> rkr@spl1.spl.loral.com (Robert K. Rouse) writes:

>	What does the oil pressure relief valve do?
It is a bypass for the oil filter, to allow the pump to continue
circulating oil in the event the filter becomes impassable. The
oil may be dirty, but dirty oil is better than none.

>	Can it cause low oil pressure at idle?
Only if it's stuck open.  Low *indicated* pressure can also
result from using a finer grade of oil than the guage expects.

Low oil pressure is USUALLY the result of not enough oil in the
system, thin (hot) oil, or a pump failure.  High oil pressure
is usually a result of thick oil or a clogged filter.
Oil pressure NORMALLY fluctuates with engine RPM, since the oil
pump is engine-driven.

The oil pressure guage in my 88 Jeep reads average with a cold
engine in summer or a hot enging in winter.  Cold engine in
winter shows very high oil pressure, while a hot engine in
summer reads slightly low pressure at idle.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: DOHC on a V8 possible?
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 25 Sep 92 01:24:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet



-> > Of course, the viper is technically a DOHC V10,

> WRONG! PUSHRODS!!!  It's an aluminum implementation of a truck engine
> (which oddly enough has yet to appear in a truck...)

 And not only hasn't appeared in a truck, but as of a few months
ago there were still no SAE papers presented by the proud engineers.
<arf>  Also, Chrysler doesn't appear to have a hole in their truck
engine line for an iron-block variant of the Viper motor.

 The sad part is, Chrysler still owns a chunk of Lamborghini.  The
Countach/Diablo V12 would have been impressive enough, and it's already
available and Federalized.  For that matter, if Chevy could get the 454
through the EGA's sniff test, Chrysler could have got the 440 through.

 Well, it probably doesn't matter anyway.  The Cobras were race cars.
There's no class anywhere where a Viper would be both legal and
competitive.  The Viper is just another speed bump in the road of life.
                                                       
From: wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 18:16:33 GMT
Subject: Re: Limited Slip differential
Organization: Hewlett Packard - Boise, ID
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

How does Limited Slip Differential work?...

Well, depends on the brand/model.  But in general, if you take the normal
differential (I'm assuming that you know how a normal differential works)
then with the addition of cones or clutches, you try to limit the 
relative movements between the two axle output shafts as they leave the
inner gears.  These clutches are held together with springs so that if
there is enough pressure (say as in turning) then the differential will
slip in a "limited" fashion.

Now since the two axles are normally turning in unison most of the time,
there isn't any load on the clutches at all, since the clutch assembly
rotates with the axles themselves.  If you have a relative speed change
between the two axles, THEN the clutches come into effect.  This can be
tire slipping, vehicle turning and mis-matched tire size.  

I'm not much of a picture creator with text so I'll let someone else
draw you a picture...

P.S. If you really want a neat differential, check out a Torsen type.

Wes Fujii

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Wes Fujii               *           JAPANESE BUSINESS MOTTO           *
* Boise, Idaho            *        You can buy anything you want        *
* wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com *             with a lot of money             *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
From: zhou@solb1.essex.ac.uk (Zhou J)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Alternator, battery problems and please help!!
Date: 3 Oct 92 21:30:19 GMT
Reply-To: zhou@essex.ac.uk (Zhou J)
Organization: University of Essex, Colchester, UK

Hello auto experts:

I have an 86 Nissan Micra which is giving me problems.  I am very much
a novice in working on cars and I need advice from you. I just bought a new 
heavy duty battery for the car as I do a lot of short trips around the
town and the car was starting well until last Thurday morning when it
appeared to have lost all the charge in the battery.  I was in a hurry
so I just push started it without checking the water levels and took a
long trip at high speeds. Then it was ok for the day although I did
feel the current sort of reducing after I left the car for a few hours.
Then it would not start on Friday again.  So I checked the battery water
levels and found the water was almost all gone and there was this black
color in the holes. The guy in the autoshop(where I bought the battery)
told me it was because the alternator was over-charging the battery so
the battery boiled off all the water and the black color was due to
the dry-over-charging.  He said it was most likely the regulator in the
alternator was gone and it could couse all kinds of problems. Then 
after I topped up the battery and car could start alright and it seemed
the alternator was still charging as I could now leave the car sitting
there and restart as long as I disconnect the battery and re-connect it
before I use the car again. I have done some initial measurements and found
the resistance between the negative and positive battery leads was
only 66 ohms(without connect the battery of course). No wonder the charges
were lost after one night.  Also the measurements are not changed by taking
out all the fuses as long as the alternator is connected.  So I am 
convienced( I am studying electrical engineering after all) that the regulator 
diodes are broken so the battery is not charged properly and it also released 
the charge as soon as the car stops runing.  Anyway,  now I am very keen on 
trying to change the regulator myself.  So do you think it is indeed the
regulator problem and if so,  what advice you could give me on changing
the regulator.  I have a Haynes manuel so I think I should be ok
following it and also armed with what advice you give me. Many thanx in
advance!!

Also I have found the idle speed control is not working any more.  Before this
whenever I switched on the lights the idle speed increased but now the idle
stay the same and the lights are WEAK.  Well,  can I still use the car?

Joey-getting-desperate-Zhou
From: vaheg@woods.ulowell.edu
Subject: Buick Regal 3.8  Gas mileage????????
Organization: University of Lowell
Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1992 05:38:14 GMT

I'm just currious-----What do some of you buick regal(81 v6 231cid)
owners get for gas milage?  I'm just using this as a reference to see
if my car is up to specs---It is relly lacking on power.
(I had a delta 88 with a 350 before so maybee I got used to that!!!)
Mail me direct---
thanks
-gerry
From: samblane@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Sean Samblanet)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Ford Probe GT specs & questions
Date: 1 Oct 92 19:33:20 GMT
Article-I.D.: oasys.25778
Reply-To: samblane@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Sean Samblanet)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.autos.tech, crow@bnr.ca (LeRoy Pick) writes:
:
:To apply my $0.02 worth ($0.017 American), the Probe GT is quoted as
:having the horsepower figure you indicate, i.e. 145@???? rpm.  However,
:it is considered by C/D (Car and Driver) to be "the most powerful 145 hp
:ever".  The reason for this is, I understand it, that the engine has an
:impressive torque rating (203 lb-ft @ 3300 rpm I think) which
:allows this puppy to haul ass in short order, much better than the
:straight horsepower figures would indicate.
:
:C/D labelled the Probe GT as a beautiful "rolling start" machine, based
;on their 5-60 mph test ratings.  This test prevents you from doing the usual
:"rev like crazy then drop the clutch" 0-60 acceleration tests.  When matched
:against the other speedy 4-bangers (article "Fired-up Fours") it did the
:5-60 as fast as any, give or take .2 of a second, and just about all the
:competition had higher horsepower ratings, often in lighter vehicles.
:
:As a comparison, this is the same torque rating attributed to the Eagle
:Talon Tsi AWD Turbo model.  In the Talon, however, the torque peaks much
:higher in the rpm band (around 5000 I believe, but that is very rough
:recollection) and it is also rated at 195 hp.
:
    To set things straight the Eagle Talon Turbo (2wd) has
190HP @6000rpm (7000 is red line) and 203ft.lbs torque @3000 rpm.
    The 4WD version has 195hp at nearly the same torque.

Sean
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: atovorni@engr.UVic.CA (Andreas  Tovornik)
Subject: Re: Opinions on Ford V8-460 engine?
Reply-To: atovorni@engr.UVic.CA
Organization: University of Victoria, Victoria, BC, Canada
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 92 02:45:45 GMT

In article 5782@ucsbcsl.ucsb.edu, crmeyer@voodoo.physics.ucsb.edu () writes:
>I have been on the prowl for a used pick-up truck for general use and for
>towing my Jeep CJ. I have come across a '75 Ford F250 with a 460 cu in
>V8 and a C6 automatic trans; both of which have been completely rebuilt
>recently. Any comments on the 460 engine (good, bad, indifferent)?
 
   The 460 was a tough, torquey V8 that should have no trouble pulling 
your jeep around. In terms of reliability, it's as good as any other Ford
V8 from the early to mid seventies, that is, TOUGH.

   It will last a long time if you take care of it. This may be stating the
obvious, but if you plan to do lots of flat highway driving,and don't need 
to climb hills, it would be a good idea to have something other than 4.10:1
differential gears. When a 460 revs up, it gets thirsty. As long as you keep 
it revving below 3000 Rpm, you should enjoy relatively fair gas milage.

Andy.

From: michaeln@hpcvnb.CV.HP.COM (Mike_Nason)
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 92 05:44:42 PDT
Subject: Re: oil pressure guage
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Corvallis, Oregon
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

    If it were mine I' unscrew the sender and screw in a machanical guage
and check it. If its reading right its probably the oil pressure relief
valve sticking.  If thats the case try running some engine fast flush 
thru it to remove the carbon thats sticking it. 
   I don't think you mentioned whether its only when cold or not or whether
you've just changed the oil and went to a higher viscosity oil. 
   If you decide its the relief valve then you'll have to drop the 
pan and change out/or clean out the pressure relief valve.
                Good luck !  Mike Nason

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ehawrysh@bnr.ca (Evan Hawrysh)
Subject: Re: oil pressure guage
Reply-To: ehawrysh@bnr.ca
Organization: Bell Northern Research Ltd
Date: Fri, 02 Oct 92 18:36:06 GMT

In article 1afqkaINNhm6@male.EBay.Sun.COM, sstout@yukon.EBay.Sun.COM (Steve Stout, Mgr. Sales Negotiations) writes:
> Last weekend the oild pressure guage on my '79 Chevy 4X4 w/race
> built 350 started acting up.  It would read normal at idle, then
> go off the scale as I accelerated and stick there until it got
> back to idle.  I figure it has got to be the sending unit or the`
> guage- the wiring looks fine.  Is there anything I can do to
> check it other than just buying another sending unit and seeing
> if that fixes it?
> 
> 'Steve

Most sending units act as a variable resistor. Disconnect the sending unit wire
at the unit and measure the resistance of the unit on a VOM under different rpms,
hot/cold, etc. Its not unusual to have a sticky sending unit. For the price, you
might just want to replace it and remove any doubt.

This reminds me of the time my brother rebuilt his V6 in his Mustang II. He 
accidentally connected the temp sending unit to the oil pressure idiot light.
It started out dim, but as the car warmed up, his oil light got brighter and
brighter! 
He also had a seat sensor of some type that was shorting out. The car would only
start if the passenger removed his/her weight off the seat! This brought new
meaning to the advertising slogan "Mustang II, boredom 0".

EH

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: msingh@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (The Supreme Commander)
Subject: Re: Cold = Super braking power??
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 13:39:03 GMT


>>My brand new Mazda 626 has an interesting problem. Whenever the engine
>>is cold, I seem to have super braking power. The lightest touch brings
>>the car to a halt. That's fine, except when the engine warms up, the
>>brakes are noticeably weaker.
>
>Looks like fading Japanese brakes to me.

>If you are generally hard on your brakes, this is probably normal.


Well I'm actually very easy on the brakes, plus the car only has 600
miles on it! I also noticed just this morning that the brakes squeal a
little the very first time they are applied. (Again, when the engine
is cold)



				...Manu

-- 
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The Supreme Commander wishes you a Supreme day. 
I'm a Magic Man, oooh, I got the magic hands, yeah...
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