HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: hamilton@batman.rtp.dg.com (Eric Hamilton)
Subject: Re: Delta Radial Arm Saw Alignment
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 93 14:45:45 GMT
Organization: Data General Corporation, Research Triangle Park, NC

In article <29468@oasys.dt.navy.mil>, wthomas@oasys.dt.navy.mil (William Thomas) writes:
|> made the unpleasent discovery that radial arm saws don't
|> stay in alignment nearly as well as table saws.
|> 
|> I would like to know from the readers an easy way to set the
|> vertical aligment of the saw to 90 degrees, especially without
|> havingt to remove the blade guard. My problem is that there is
|> slopp in the setting before you lock it in place and I would like
|> to consistently set it at 90 degrees.
|> bill thomas

The slop in the bevel angle of any RAS comes from two causes (assuming it's
not outright broken).  The first is important - until you understand it you'll
never get the thing cutting square.  The second is usually too small to
notice - don't worry about it until you have the thing set up perfectly.

1) The indexing pin has some play - otherwise it would bind in place.  This
means that the motor will "rattle" a bit (maybe a degree or so) around the
index point.  The solution is to always push to one side of the rattle before
locking down - the ends of the play are quite repeatable, so you should pick
one and always adjust to it.  The bevel angle is best pushed clockwise, because
that's the way it'll be forced in normal operation, because.....

2) Especially when cutting wide/hard wood, the blade entering the wood
exerts an upwards force on the arm, which is not perfectly rigid.  Since the
blade and the arm are not in the same plane, the effect is that the blade
is twisted clockwise a bit.  This effect is usually negligible, but if you
really are in a zero-tolerance situation, make your first cut long by a teeny bit,
less than the width of your saw blade, then make a second cut to shave off the
excess and leave it dead on.  The second cut meets so little resistance that
the arm doesn't flex in the least.


Eakes's book "Fine-Tuning Your Radial Arm Saw" (mine came from Manny's
for $14.00) is absolutely essential.  Without it, your RAS will make you
crazy.  With it, you'll love it.

-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Eric Hamilton				+1 919 248 6172
Data General Corporation		hamilton@dg-rtp.rtp.dg.com
62 Alexander Drive			...!mcnc!rti!xyzzy!hamilton
Research Triangle Park, NC  27709, USA
Organization: University of Maine System
Date: Tuesday, 5 Jan 1993 18:35:52 EST
From: <SHALEE@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Drying wet wood without cracking, HOW?

Another option, if you're not in a hurry is to prevent all shrinkage by
soaking the wet wood in a solution of water and polyethylene glycol.  Since
the PEG needs to diffuse into the wood, the larger the piece, the longer
it takes (days to weeks).  After soaking, just remove from the solution and
let it air-dry.  This won't last if you let the wood contact liquid water
though.
From: de@moscom.com (David Esan)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: WARNING (response to...)
Date: 5 Jan 93 16:47:11 GMT
Organization: Moscom Corporation, Pittsford NY

In article <4320118@hpcc01.corp.hp.com> gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz) writes:
>1.  cause:  Utter stupidity and lack of blade guard on table saw.
>  I had just crosscut a small length of pine, and one piece was vibrating
>  over close to the saw blade as the blade was spinning down.  I reached
>  over to move the piece and one finger hit the blade.  Probably one tooth
>  of the blade hit my finger tip.  Cut out a nice carbide-tooth shaped piece
>  of flesh, all the way to the bone.   

I did the same thing.  Reached over to remove a piece of scrap with the blade
going.  Now I have a nice scar on my left middle finger (it was a great
bandage to show off ;-) ).  I am very lucky.  I can move the finger without
a problem, I can feel the tip of the finger.  The scar tissue, however,
has no feeling, and hurts in the cold.  It also reminds me each and every
morning that if I do any wood butchering to be very very careful, use the
blade guard and plenty of light.

Let me tell you that returning to the table saw after the accident was a major
test of my courage.


-- 
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 -->     David Esan      de@moscom.com  
 
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: 3 phase question
Date: 5 Jan 93 08:20:24 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <1i4r38INNost@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> cf036@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (G. Gary Preckshot) writes:

>In reply to C. Lewis:  You neglected the transformer action of the
>rotary converter.  Rotary converters do supply true three phase
>power and have the same relation to an MG set as an autotrans-
>former has to a two-winding transformer.

Maybe I misunderstand how these converters worked.

I thought that you took a three phase motor, with leads A, B and C.

You connect the 220V to leads A and B.  Then kickstart the motor
with a capacitor to lead C.

Then you connect your 3 phase equipment to leads A, B and C of the
first motor.

In such an arrangement, A and B will still be 180 degrees out of
phase with each other.  And C will have a voltage induced upon
it that's 90 degrees out of phase of both A and B.  There's no way
that you can phase shift A and B because there's nothing in
series with them, short of overpowering your hydro utility.

Short of some impossible_to_control_over_load_range thingummy with
lots of extra inductors, it seems to me that the only practical
way you can get true 3 phase would be an MG set.  Ie: two motors, one
driving the other being used as a generator.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: allen@tessi.com (Allen Warren)
Subject: Re: Sale on Quick-Grip clamps
Organization: Test Systems Strategies, Inc., Beaverton, Oregon
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 16:40:20 GMT

berry@a.chem.upenn.edu (Don Berry) writes:


>    For comparison, Woodworker's Supply sells the 36in
>clamp for $25, and the mini-clamps for $14 each.

>Size   price    item #

>6in   $10.99   04489-1WJA
>12     13.99   04490-0WJA
>18     14.99   04491-1WJA
>24     16.99   04492-2WJA
>36     18.99   04493-1WJA
>6in mini-bar clamp (set of 2)  $14.69  (item #01034-6WJA)

>Harbor Freight:  (800) 423-2567

>Note that the special prices are linked to the specific
>item numbers listed in the flyer; no item #, no sales price. 



Don,

Thanks for the great info.!  My only question is (and I
haven't called Harbor Freight yet), would S&H bring the
prices closer to what prices would be at other stores?

allen
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: WARNING (response to...)
Date: 8 Jan 93 07:07:44 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <TONYB.93Jan7152126@ursula.juliet.ll.mit.edu> tonyb@juliet.ll.mit.edu ( Tony Berke ) writes:

>Just out of curiosity, what does a squar drive screw buy you over a
>Phillips-head one?  I'm a real fan of drywall screws for general
>hacking.  Do square-drives strip less easily in brass and other
>soft metals?  That's my only complaint with phillips heads.

Square drives are much less likely to tear up the heads, even with
ordinary steel woodscrews.  Much less slippage.  Hardened drywall
screws with phillips aren't too bad, but if you're driving into
hard wood (like 80 year old hemlock studs) you'll wish you were
wearing hearing protectors.  Bits last MUCH longer.  During one
job I was doing some work on the drywaller ran through several bits
an hour.  And our ears hurt.  I'm still using my original robertson
bits thousands of screws later.

You'll appreciate the difference, even with hand driving.  You don't
have to push nearly as hard.

Unfortunately, square drive drywall screws are hard to come by.
Even here, where robertsons were invented - robertsons so dominate
the market that only specialty items having to be obtained from the
States come in phillips.  They should bar them at the border ;-)
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jab3@cec2.wustl.edu (John Alonzo Breen)
Subject: Transferring chip carving designs to wood
Organization: Washington University, St. Louis MO
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 16:53:29 GMT

I don't know if this is a commonly known trick, but I thought it might
be useful to someone.

I've been doing a little chip carving lately.  To me, the most tedious
part of the project is transferring the design to the wood - I tried
carbon paper, but using a straightedge for every line would take
forever, and tracing it freehand comes out horrible (due to the pencil
trying to follow the grain).

About a year ago, in sci.electronics, I read a technique for
transferring printed circuit traces to a copper-clad board.  I decided
to see if it would work for wood, and it seems to work reasonably
well.

The technique is as follows:

1.  Make a paper copy of the design (I do mine on a Macintosh and
print it on a laser printer).

2.  Xerox the design onto a transparency (you obviously need access to
a copier that you can fiddle with the paper supply; or you can try
feeding the transparency directly into the laser printer, but I accept
no responsibility for ruined laser printers (I've done it, but the
quality of the next few plots seemed degraded, so I was afraid it was
leaving a residue behind).

3.  Using the transparency like an iron-on transfer, iron the pattern
onto the wood.  The highest setting on my iron seemed to be just
before the melting point of the transparency, and gave the best
results; you may have to experiment.

If anyone has any improvements to this technique, I'd like to hear
them.  I'm still experimenting with it.  One additional step might be
to clean the wood with something to help get a good transfer.
--
-- 
John A. Breen                   |
jab3@cec1.wustl.edu             | This space unintentionally left blank
From: spelce@trinity.llnl.gov (    Tom Spelce              )
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: DeWalt Biscuit Joiner = ELU Biscuit Joiner?
Date: 4 Jan 93 20:32:06 GMT

THE LATEST ELU AND DEWALT BISCUIT JOINERS ARE THE SAME UNITS SAVE
FOR COLOR. ELU NOW HAS TWO JOINERS -- THE PREVIOUS ARC STYLE PLUNGE
UNIT AND THE NEWER STRIGHT AHEAD PLUNGE. THE PRICE FOR THE NEW UNIT
IS ABOUT 15 DOLLARS LOWER THAN THE ORIGINAL. THE ELU IS READILY AVAILABLE
IN THE SF BAY AREA.

TOM SPELCE
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bds@mbunix.mitre.org (Smith)
Subject: Re: Ryobi & Fein Detail Sanders
Organization: The MITRE Corporation, Bedford, MA
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 13:18:07 GMT

In article <1993Jan2.010255.1@acad2.alaska.edu> asket@acad2.alaska.edu writes:
>Happy New Year!  I'm about to buy the new Ryobi detail sander (triangular      
>head).  Eagle hardware sells it for $48.  Fein also makes a detail sander
>at about $240.  Is the quality difference really worth that much?  
>  
>Have any of you used these new triangular-head detail sanders?  
>  
>Thanks.      Karl Thoennes

Yes, the quality difference is significant.  I played with both of
them side by side the other day.  The Ryobi feels like a vibrator,
including making the noise of one.  The Fein is much more solid, much
quieter, and generally feels like an excellent piece of equipment.
The Ryobi has a much larger arc than the Fein, too.  This is not to
say that the Ryobi won't do a good job.  It's just that the Fein is a
truly excellent piece of equipment.  And expensive.

Barry

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: parnass@cbnewse.cb.att.com (Bob Parnass, AJ9S)
Subject: American Woodshop - new show on PBS
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories, Naperville, IL
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 03:49:38 GMT
Keywords: woodworking television shows, artisans


The public television station in  Chicago  (channel  11)  started
carrying a new show, American Woodshop, on Saturday mornings at 9
AM.

In the show I saw last week,  a  guy  named  Klaus  (?),  whom  I
recognized  from some woodworking videotapes) hand made dovetails
for a box by eye!  Then, the host made a walnut bandsaw box using
the familiar Delta 14" bandsaw.

It was a very interesting change from  watching  the  New  Yankee
Workshop, also televised on this station.   Anyone else seen
American Woodshop?
-- 
==============================================================================
Bob Parnass, AJ9S  -  AT&T Bell Labs  -  parnass@ihlpm.att.com - (708)979-5414
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mlord@bmers63.bnr.ca (Mark Lord)
Subject: Re: Making wooden blinds
Organization: BNR, Ottawa, Canada
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 93 16:44:56 GMT

In article <C0pJoJ.FM7@hfglobe.intel.com> gregt@hfglobe.intel.com (Greg Tollefson) writes:
>
>I am thinking about making wooden blinds. 
...
>As far as machining,  I am thinking of setting up a 
>double blade arrangement on my tablesaw with a 1/4"
>spacer between the blades.  Since I will be ripping
>alot of material the double blade will save me time.

Eh?  'cuse my ingorance, but why not simply set the rip fence
to be 1/4" from the (single) blade on your tablesaw?

And use featherboards to hold the strips firmly against the fence,
to improve the quality of cut (and safety).

>For finishing the blinds I would either belt sand
>or run them through my thickness planer.  Any thoughts

I would use the planer.  Removing blade marks (from tablesaw)
is very hard to do by sanding, and I'd find it hard to control
the belt sander (hand-held?) on such small/thin wooden strips.
The planer will leave a nice finish, assuming your planer blades
are aligned with each other.
From: kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM (John Kopf,D,6305)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Transferring chip carving designs to wood
Date: 9 Jan 93 00:14:38 GMT
Reply-To: kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems

You can do the same thing with ball-point ink...simply trace the desired pattern (in
reverse) onto paper, then iron it onto the work to transfer it.

JK
From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 19:28:21 GMT
Subject: Re: Stile and rail bits for routers
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

I use a matched set of beading stile and rail bits in my Bosch 1615EVS
router.

The work just fine.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: grun@intellistor.com (Paul Grun)
Subject: Re: squiblet flurbigator
Organization: Intellistor, Inc.
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 93 18:44:44 GMT

In <ll3kohINNnr8@exodus.Eng.Sun.COM> coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM (Chip Coffin) writes:


>I>It seems to me that the flywheel should be made out of cold rolled
>>bolognium (UNS No. B94104 with a Brinell hardness of 75).
>>This is an extremely versatile material.

>Actually, any flubigator worth its salt has the flywheel made of
                                !!!!^^^^!!!
>unobtanium.

>But naturally, there are very few of these around.......

>chip

Salt!  That's what I've been missing!  I've been putting talcum powder on
the table saw (prevents rash), (non-silicone) wax on the baby (cuts 
down on diaper rust), and NOW i find out I need salt for the flurbigator!


-Paul
-- 

goes to show, you don't ever know...
grun@intellistor.com
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Sun, 10 Jan 1993 23:23:17 EST
From:         Jim Morgan <JMORGAN@BROWNVM.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: filing cabinets

>Posted on 10 Jan 1993 at 15:26:56 by Bob Pasker
>
>i'm about to embark on building myself an oak filing cabinet and i'm
>looking for plans and ball-bearing mechanisms for the draws.
>
>any suggestions where i might find these?
>
>thanks
>
>--
>--
>-- bob pasker
>-- rbp@netcom.com
>--

I think that The Woodworker's Store sells plans for a 2-drawer oak filing
cabinet.

So far as I know, standard drawer slides are suitable for use in filing
cabinets, provided they have sufficiently high load ratings.  Accuride
is reputed to make the best slides; Blum and KV (Knapp/Vogt, I think) are
alternative brands.  The Woodworker's Store and Woodcraft carry Accuride;
Trendlines and Tools on Sale carry cheaper brands; you can find slides in
many other catalogs.

It's probably a good idea to include a mechanism that only allows one drawer
to be pulled out at a time.  A length of cord, secured to the cabinet at both
ends, passing though an eye on the back of each drawer and eyes on the back
of the cabinet between each pair of drawers, and with just enough slack to
allow one drawer to be fully pulled out will do the trick.

Jim Morgan
Brown University
James_Morgan@Brown.Edu
From:  (Michael Hackney)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Stile and rail bits for routers
Date: 6 Jan 93 16:07:29 GMT
Followup-To: rec.woodworking
Organization: GTE Laboratories

In article <1993Jan6.080636.5373@netcom.com>, you wrote:
> 
> I have seen stile and rail bits advertised for routers
> in FW.  Do these things do the job for cabinet
> work?  I realize that the raised panel bit won't 
> work well unless I could slow my router down.  I suppose
> that I will do the panels on the table saw.  I sure
> would like to do something nice to the stiles and rails
> and these bit sets might be the ticket.  It would
> be nice to have a shaper....but not till I can find a 
> real job!
> 
> Michelle

There are 2 basic types of style and rail router bits; interchangable and
matched sets. The interchangable bit is a pain to use and fairly difficult
to adjust. The matched sets are very easy to use but typically cost $10 -
$15 more a set (mone well spent).

As for raised panels, there is another option you may not be aware of,
vertical raised panel bits for your router. These bits are patented (I
believe) by Woodhaven and are available from them and many other places.
Instead of being large diameter like 'normal' panel bits (that's why you
need slower RPM) they are tall and skinny (see drawing). I am making new
kitchen cabinets in oak using one of these bits for all the panels. One
limitation, they only work on straight edges, no curved tops allowed.


											-
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									/   \
								|					|
								|					|
								|					|			(almost actual size, use your imagination!)
							/							\
							|							|
							| 						|
							|							|
							__				 __
									|			|
									|			|
									-----

michael
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mewes@selway.umt.edu (Jim Mewes)
Subject: Plans for an artist's easel
Keywords: plans easel
Organization: University of Montana
Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1993 19:38:56 GMT


Does anyone know of a source for plans for an artists easel?
 
-- 

Jim Mewes                               mewes@selway.umt.edu
ULTRIX Administration                   University of Montana
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bellas@soldev.TTI.COM (Pete Bellas)
Subject: Re: Chess table design
Reply-To: bellas@soldev.TTI.COM (Pete Bellas)
Organization: Transaction Technology, Inc.
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 17:18:19 GMT

In article <1993Jan6.230837.808@pixel.kodak.com>, john@ektools.kodak.com
(John H. Hall) writes:
> 
> I'm trying to design a chess table.  I plan to do the table in maple,
> with a maple and walnut chessboard on the top.  The table top will
> consist of the chessboard, framed by a 1/4" walnut strip, and then
> by 5" of maple, mitered at the corners.  ASCII approximation:

The Nov/Dec issue of WoodSmith had this exact project, using 4/4 maple
and walnut with details on making the top float inside the frame. Actually
theirs top was a lid to the box that held all the pieces, but the procedure
should be the same. I can look up the issue number if you need it.

			-Pete-

* Pete Bellas                   "Cogito ergo spud"                         *
* Citicorp/TTI                       I think therefore I yam.              *
* Santa Monica, CA                                                         *
* bellas@gamma.tti.com                                                     *
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Sun, 10 Jan 1993 23:03:13 EST
From:         Jim Morgan <JMORGAN@BROWNVM.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: How to use waterstone?

>Posted on 10 Jan 1993 at 15:27:01 by Jack Mcbryde
>
>I just bought an 8000 grit Japanese waterstone. I'm familiar with the
>procedures for sharpening things with the usual stones, so I don't really
>have any questions about that. I'm not sure of the proper way to use the
>waterstone though. I understand that it needs to be soaked in water. (Not
>much, huh?) How long? Can one leave it in the water? Does one fully immerse
>it? Any practices from using a stone with oil that are likely to trip me up?
>Oh yeah, It's about 9" x 2 7/8" x 7/8" if it makes any difference.
>
>thanks,
>jack
>--

The 8000 waterstone is really more of a polishing stone than a sharpening
stone- usually one establishes an edge with a 1000 or 1200 stone and polishes
it with 4000, 6000, and/or 8000 stones.  You should be able to put a mirror
finish on your tools with your new stone (though you might want to invest
in a couple coarser grit waterstones as well).

Unmounted waterstones can be left soaking in water.  Veritas makes a 'stone
pond' for this purpose, but a Tupperware marinating container works well, too.
Don't leave the soaking stones somewhere where they can freeze - the expanding
ice will pulverize the stones.  If not left soaking, coarser waterstones (1200
or below) should be immersed in water for about 10 minutes before use.

Waterstones with wooden bases (most polishing stones come this way) cannot be
left soaking.  Polishing stones do not need to be immersed before use - you
can just splash a little water on their surface.  A 'nagura" stone is
available to help in using the harder polishing stones.  This is a chalky
stone that is rubbed over the surface of the polishing stone and creates
a paste containing some of the abrasive from the waterstone.  Personally,
I haven't found that the nagura stone does much - I'm probably using it wrong.

Add a little water from time to time while using the stone.  I've found that
a child's training cup makes a handy, spillproof container that allows you to
shake out a few drops on the stone.  These cups come decorated with all sorts
of cute characters, unlike most wookworking tools.

Jim Morgan
Borwn University
James_Morgan@Brown.Edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: warren@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (warren.a.montgomery)
Subject: Re: Cutting tenons on a table saw
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 14:20:21 GMT
Summary: If possible, don't make cheek cuts, just nibble it away!

When cutting tenons (or lap joints, which is more common for me)
on a table saw, I discovered that it is usually easier and
probably safer for me at least to avoid making the cheek cut
altogether, and instead simply nibble away the waste after making
the shoulder cut.  This avoids having to support the board in an
awkward vertical position, avoids cutting off small waste blocks,
which for me at least tend to fire back occasionally no matter how
I do it, and avoids my biggerst fear, that the board will somehow
slip into the blade slot, since there is very little wood on the
table to prevent it.  It also avoids inaccuracies due to a small
angle on the blade or the board.  Just set up for the sholder cut
with either a thick standard blade you don't mind putting some
wear on, or a dado blade set as flat as possible, and set the
blade to cut just slightly below where you want it.  Make the
shoulder cut and nibble away the waste.  Then use a sharp chisel
to smooth and trim it for a precise fit.  This is tedious if
have to do a lot of them, but for a few it's easy, and triming up
with the chisel for a precise fit is very satisfying.

-- 

	Warren Montgomery
	att!iexist!warren
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking