HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: sysop@elan.rowan.edu (Ken Denton (Supervisor))
Subject: [W] Tires for Corrado SLC
Organization: Rowan College of New Jersey
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 13:20:01 GMT


	I am the proud owner of a 92 Corrado SLC with almost 24k miles on 
the clock.  Due to excessive exuberance on my part, I need to get some new 
tires for the front (the rears are sure to follow soon).  Unfortunately, the 
OEM tires are *almost* impossible to get from anyplace else besides the 
dealer (who charges over $300/ea).  The cheapest price I've been able to get 
was around $225, but I'd have to wait for them to come from the Fatherland.

	Does anyone have a recommendation for a different tire that would 
work well?  I'd like to keep the same size (205/50VR15).  I've previously 
had an '86 GTI with the Pirelli P600s which I liked (enough to replace the 
Yokahamas on my CRX with them when the time came), but they don't come in 
the size I need.

	Some of the alternative could be: Goodyear Eagle VR50, Pirelli P7, 
Michelin XGV(?), Bridgestone RE71.  Anyone have some help with this problem? 
Thanks in advance.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: jose@troy.cc.bellcore.com (caballero,richard j)
Subject: Good VW mechanic in Central N.J.
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 93 22:41:23 GMT
Keywords: mechanic, Central N.J.

Hi:

I own a 92 VW GTI 16V.  I hate my dealer.
I bought the car from Shrewsbury Motors in 
Shrewsbury N.J.  I am just not satisfied with
their service.  Does anyone have recommendations
for any good VW mechanics in central N.J.?
Any info is much appreciated.

Rich Caballero
jose@cc.bellcore.com
From: morgan@hydra2b.cs.utk.edu (Wiz)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Clutch for 83 Rabbit
Date: 25 Jan 1993 18:13:21 GMT
Organization: University of Tennessee, Knoxville - Department of Computer Science
Distribution: world
Reply-To: morgan@hydra2b.cs.utk.edu (Wiz)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hydra2b.cs.utk.edu

I just replaced the clutch and transmission in an 84 Rabbit.

Yes, it can be done without removing the engine.  As mentioned in one
of the other replies, with the transmission out, the engine must be 
supported from the ring just above the engine/transmission mating on the
front of the engine compartment.

The crankshaft *must* be lined up properly before you can separate the
engine and transmission.  This is done by removing the TDC plug, and 
looking for either a square lug on the flywheel (@330 degrees ATDC, or
30 degrees BTDC) or a tiny line on the flywheel.  I couldn't find 
either mark, so I just turned the crankshaft (clockwise!!!) until I 
was at 30 degrees before TDC.

I've got both a Haynes manual and the John Muire Rabbit idiot book.
I will be glad to provide whatever info I can to help.

The order of removal goes something like this:

  Disconnect the battery.

  Remove the backup light cable.

  Remove the speedometer cable.

  Disconnect and remove the left driveshaft.

  Disconnect the right drive shaft.

  Support the engine from the ring.

  Remove the left transmission support.

  Remove the shift linkages.

  Remove the bolts holding the engine and transmission together.

  Make sure the crankshaft is lined up.

  Remove the transmission.

I might have left something out, or gotten the order slightly wrong, but
it's pretty close.  It's not too difficult, but it can be time consuming.

Wiz
From: luttrell@ducvax.auburn.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: 70 KG Engine Access Emergency!
Date: 27 Jan 93 15:38:14 GMT
Organization: Auburn University, AL

Help!

I have a 1970 Karmann Ghia, and a BIG problem.  The other day I went to open
the engine compartment, and the cable broke.  Now replacing the cable is not a
big deal, but I have to get into the engine compartment to do so.  So, the
question is; 

Does anyone know how to open the lid manually?  (The cable broke off too far in
to get, so that option is out.)

I looked at the underside of the body where the latch mounts, and there are 4
weld nuts about 4.5 inches apart.  Anyone know if these are in fact the latch
mount bolts?  If so, in an emergency I could drill them out (yuck) or possibly
use a bolt extractor (in reverse?).  Anyway, I would really apreciate any info.

Thanks;

David Luttrell
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: wolfson@regatta.sps.mot.com (Stephen Wolfson)
Subject: Dasher
Organization: SPS
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 22:17:26 GMT

Saw someone selling a '79 Dasher, I remember the name not 
much about the car...  Was it anything more than a rabbit with a different
skin?
From: sjohnson@frx193.intel.com (Steve Johnson - IMD ~)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: What alternative heat sources are there?
Keywords: heat, VW
Date: 26 Jan 93 16:12:30 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: INTEL Corporation, Folsom, CA

In article <1993Jan25.161738.63177@cc.usu.edu> you write:
>
>I would like heat in my bug, but would like to do away with the problems
>associated with exhaust heated air.  (ie, leaking exhaust, yucky smell
>with dirty fan, etc...)
>
>So, my question is:  Is there any alternative heat sources?  What and where?
>
>--
>Travis Carter

The best solution, by far, for a bug is to just buy a new set of heat exchangers
and make sure the engine compartment is correctly sealed and the controls for
the heater are properly adjusted.  The initial investment seems prohibative,
but I've heard and seen time and time again on this newsgroup of people who
wished they had decided to do this earlier and are kicking themselves for
it.

The VW bug heater system works great.  You just have to maintain them.  These
bugs/buses are cars that are 10 - 20 -30 years old.  How many other cars are 
on the road that long?  

The cheapest way is to just fix the existing heating system and don't expect
the parts to last forever!

There, now I will step down off my soap box. ;)

Steven
-- 
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Steven Johnson (IMD)                        M/S FM2-60
sjohnson@pcocd2.intel.com                   1900 Prairie City Road
(916)356-5540                               Folsom, CA 95630
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: bobmcn@devildog.att.com (Bob McNaughton)
Subject: Re: Good VW mechanic in Central N.J.
Keywords: mechanic, Central N.J.
Organization: AT&T IMS - Piscataway, NJ (USA)
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 18:17:28 GMT

In article <1993Jan21.224123.16409@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> jose@troy.cc.bellcore.com (caballero,richard j) writes:
>Hi:
>
>I own a 92 VW GTI 16V.  I hate my dealer.
>I bought the car from Shrewsbury Motors in 
>Shrewsbury N.J.  I am just not satisfied with
>their service.  Does anyone have recommendations
>for any good VW mechanics in central N.J.?
>Any info is much appreciated.
>
>Rich Caballero
>jose@cc.bellcore.com
>

I saw the Subject of your message and thought "great, here is a chance to
pass on the info I have about the great dealer I use", but that dealer is
Shrewsbury Motors! I am very interested in any objections you have before
I go back.

Anyway, they are infinitely better than Handy Motors of New Brunswick. I have
been charged for work that wasn't done and had at least one case of sabotauge
during a free safety check that lead to an expensive repair (cutting a 
perfectly good CV boot in half so they could charge to replace it). Avoid this
dealer at all costs.

Bob McNaughton
bobmcn@amadaeus.att.com
From: milo@dorm.rutgers.edu (Jim  mielo)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Three wheelin' Fool..
Date: 27 Jan 93 01:46:15 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.vw
Organization: rutgers university

In article <C1F037.1DI@umassd.edu>, rgolen@UMASSD.EDU wrote:
> 
> In article <1993Jan25.083839.1@ulkyvx.louisville.edu>, kpjone01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu writes:
> >This morning I made a hard left turn and had to stop pretty quickly before I
> >was able to finish turning.  I know for sure that I was on three wheels during 
> >this turn as it twisted the car pretty good (I do the three wheel thing very 
> >often.)  I have an 86 GTi with stock suspension except for the Neuspeed
> >springs.  Does anyone know what the best upgrade would be to keep the inside
> >rear tires (on either left or right turns) closer to the ground?  Three wheels
> >looks fancy and all but it does not do much for handling or breaking.  I have 
> >two choices for solving this problem.  Should I upgrade the VW or just sell it
> >and get a Porsche?  (I am partial to RWD but it costs $$$.)
> >
> >Kevin
> 
> Three-wheelin' is a fact of life on Golfs, Rabbits, GTIs, etc. Under
> hard cornering up comes the wheel. I would not go so drastic as
> to sell the car and buy a Porsche.....unless you have $$$$$, then what
> the hell.
> 

    The three wheel stance is a design feature of VW's. I remember some
time ago reading a road and track article about VW's belief it enhances
cornering stability. I don't think that 4th wheel makes much of a
difference in most FWD cars anyway. Even CRX's come very close to lifting
that wheel. It looks more like it's dragging around the turn than actually
providing grip. Plus, under heavy breaking that wheel wouldn't provide much
stopping force even if it was in contact with the ground.

         Even with only 3 wheels the GTi's can hold their own against the
competition. I'd see what people say about the new GTi's  before going to a
porsche. The new corrado is generally liked by car mags yet it lifts the
inside rear wheel too and Car and Driver ranked it rather high in a
comparision test.

      also, I'd go with the RX-7 or perhaps a 300 ZX
> >

James Mielo
Rutgers College of Pharmacy '94
milo@dorm.rutgers.edu
 1990 GTi 8v

 Sub Umbra Petri
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: sascarle@napier.uwaterloo.ca (Steve Scarlett)
Subject: [W] Door Pry-Guards
Keywords: Pry Guards, Canada
Organization: University of Waterloo
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 02:56:01 GMT


	Can anyone recommend a brand and/or source for door pry guards for VWs in
Ontario, Canada?  I would be especially interested in a source in south-western Ontario,
but any suggestions would be welcome as I travel east on a regular basis.

Thanks
From: andrew@airs.com (Andrew Evans)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: recurved distributor
Date: 25 Jan 93 05:29:19 GMT
Organization: Infinity Development, Waltham, MA

milo@dorm.rutgers.edu (Jim  mielo) writes:

>    I'm looking for a simple bolt on item to increase my cars performance.
>I was wondering if any one has purchased/used a recurved distributor and
>what their results were.

I don't think that putting a different distributor in your car is the
way to go.  The Digifant computer adjusts the ignition timing
electronically, and it has a knock sensor so it can reduce the
ignition advance if the engine starts to ping.  You need this with
10:1 compression and pump gas.  There might be someone who sells a
"performance chip" for your car with more aggressive ignition curves,
just like a mechanically recurved distributor.  Maybe Autothority or
Neuspeed have one.

>   Any other bolt on things would also be helpful. I presently have a
>leistritz exhaust K&N air filter and  splitfire plug.

Anybody put one of the performance cams into a Digifant 8V GTI?

-- 
Andrew Evans (andrew@airs.com) - Infinity Development Systems - Waltham, MA
From: rwinham@ac.dal.ca
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: What alternative heat sources are there?(flat4)
Date: 27 Jan 93 00:36:04 GMT
Organization: Dalhousie University, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

In article <1993Jan25.161738.63177@cc.usu.edu>, slhmz@cc.usu.edu writes:
> 
> I would like heat in my bug, but would like to do away with the problems
> associated with exhaust heated air.  (ie, leaking exhaust, yucky smell
> with dirty fan, etc...)
> 
> So, my question is:  Is there any alternative heat sources?  What and where?
> 
> --
> Travis Carter

Well, Travis, count yourself lucky...at least you can use the exhaust heat
if you hafta. I am the frostbitten owner of a '72 Van (the first year for
the 1700 engine). Even if I had the $400 to replace the rusted out heater
boxes, I hear it's still dubious that I'd be getting much heat up front.
Needless to say, I've been asking the same question as you. As far as I
know, the only really feasible solution is electric heat. The only models
on the market up here are a 600 BTU (that means British Thermal Unit, and
noone seems to be able to tell me any more than that) model that plugs into
the cigarette lighter and isn't worth a damn, and a 1200 btu fan-forced 
model that I'm considering. It costs $120 Cdn. and is called "Back Seat
Heat" - it's probably available thru auto parts places down there. The only
problem is, it sucks 25 amps from your electrical system when it's running...
about half the total output of your alternator! Anyway, that's all I can
tell you - if you or anyone out there can dig up a better answer please
let me know.
                                     Rus.
                            email: rwinham@ac.dal.ca
From: danno@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Daniel Gary Soiney)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: [w] Vanagon water pump
Date: 26 Jan 93 15:51:42 GMT
Article-I.D.: uwm.1k3mmeINNlhd
Organization: Computing Services Division, University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
NNTP-Posting-Host: 129.89.7.4


n the subject of wasserboxers, i am considering the purcahse of
a late model syncro bus.  could any owners out there give me advice
on trouble spots, etc. either  post replies or my address is 
danno@csd4.csd.uwm.edu
thanks
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rfarrow@novatel.cuc.ab.ca (Ron Farrow)
Subject: (A) one piece front end
Organization: "NovAtel Communications Ltd. Calgary, Alberta, Canada"
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8]
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 23:07:42 GMT

Hi There,

	I might be totally out of my mind, but has anyone heard of 
a one piece front end for Beetles.  For some reason I can't get mine
to seal, I have the hole front stuffed with insulation now but I
still get cold air coming through the radio, speaker, and fuse holder.
If one piece front ends are out there I would like to know where they
are avalible.

Thanks in advance.

Ron


--
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
The opinions expressed above| Security Coordinator   |<Reply-to>               |
are mine; not my employer's.| NovAtel Communications |rfarrow@novatel.cuc.ab.ca|
----------------------------+------------------------+-------------------------+
   "Just 'cuz I drive a beetle doesn't give you the right to cut me off!!! "
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Re: [A]:Floods and VWs...some Questions....
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 21:00:17 GMT

In article <1k3m2lINNlfc@uwm.edu>, danno@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Daniel Gary Soiney) writes:
|> you realy don't need to adjust the shoes away from the drum first.  
|> simply remove the wheel and bang on the drum until the tone changes
|> from a thud to a ringing noise.  also, as a matter of habit don't use the
|> parking brake if the car is going to sit more than a day or two.

I still find it interesting that suddenly it is bad practice to park your
car with the parking brake set.  I have done this since the early 60's on
a variety of VW's and other stick shift cars without any problems.  And that
is in climates from -20F to 122F with either tons of moisture/rain/snow/ice or
humidity down to near zero. (Indiana, Michigan, Texas, Arizona, California, Germany)
I still cannot conceive why this should be a problem if the brakes are properly
adjusted and have adequate lining.

Maybe someone out there could enlighten me (and others) as to the mechanical
or chemical reason for not using the parking brake.

Mark
From: bill@tss.com (Bill Castellano)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Door Handles are a Pain in the *@!
Keywords: door handles stick
Date: 27 Jan 93 10:03:26 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Teknekron Software Systems, Inc.

In article <C19Eso.8uC@watserv1.uwaterloo.ca> jfreder@healthy.uwaterloo.ca (Jody Frederick) writes:
>Hello to all:  I have a problem that I've seen discussed in this newsgroup
>before, but I forget the solution that was suggested.  My door handles of
>my VW Jetta are all sticking and it's happened in every VW I've ever
>owned.  We've never quite known how to fix it, we've adapted.  However, my
>four door is now a 1/2 door (all but the driver's side are completely
>stuck!!).  I'd really appreciate it if some kind person out there would
>please tell me how to fix this annoyance before I have to resort to

no problem. my gti16v passenger's door did this, just take the lock apart
by prying off the chrome or black cover plate on the handle, and removing
the bolt from inside the door. it's a stupid design that invites theft by
prying a screwdriver through the door and pressing down on the latch inside
of the door. just take it apart and look at it... it's easy to see. anyway, by
realigning everything, and adding lots of wd40 spray, it can be reassembled so
that it works fine.

consider it periodic maintenance.  give it a try! only takes 5 minutes.

bill
-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
bill castellano / teknekron software systems / elan / gti 16v /bill@tss.com
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
me                us                           fast   slower   slowest
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: moussavi@hplabsz.hpl.hp.com (Farshid Moussavi)
Subject: clutch on 90 1/2 GLI
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 19:12:39 GMT
Organization: Hewlett Packard


Hi guys

I just got back from Europe, and I sat in the new Golf/Jetta VR6,
and it is one helluva car!  First of all, the rear seat in the Jetta
(called Vento there) folds down, and the truck is huge (as usual).
It looks really sleek, and the panel is a little more streamlined,
resembling the Corrado more than the current Golf/Jetta.  Unfortunately,
they've changed the fonts of the numbers on the various gauges, and I 
like the current fonts more IMHO.  Vento comes standard with 8 speakers,
and they are set up much more nicely, bigger speakers in the dash, as well
as two new ones in the rear doors.  The VR6 Golf I saw had dual airbags,
but I'm not sure if it is an option or standard.  I might be wrong,
but I couldn't find a glovebox since the passenger side airbag took up
that part of the panel!  If anyone knows otherwise and can counter this,
please tell us so we can have a sigh of relief.  Vento comes in 4 models:
CL, GL, and two higher ones.  I think all except the top of the line have
the new 115 hp engines, and the one higher than the GL has a sportier trim,
kind of like the GTI 8v or something.  As of this year, all VW's in Europe
will also be blessed(cursed?) with catalytic converters, and what's nice
is that a lot of body parts will be recyclable (eg plastic parts, etc.).
I have brochures at home, so if there are any questions, I might be able
to look them up for you.  There are some prices too, but they are in
Swiss Francs, and I'm sure they will not be indicative of the prices (or
even trims) that we'll find here in North America.


On another note, I was just wondering if any of you out there know about 
the clutch on 90 1/2 (and presumable later ones as well) Jetta GLI.  Mine 
engages higher than I would like, and certainly higher than when I first bought
it. The dealer told me that it is self adjusting, and I just should live
with it.  I guess I'm curious if this is the case with other GLI's out
there (Does your clutch engage high as well?), can it be adjusted, and
of course, could this mean my clutch is near its end?  I have about 49k
miles on my car now.  Thanks in advance, and any comments are greatly 
appreciated.


Happy Driving,

Farshid
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: [A] VW Literature For Sale or Trade
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1993 18:21:15 GMT

While digging through my VW books, etc., I came across some
items I would possibly like to either sell or trade. I am
particularly interested in obtaining a copy of the
"Volkswagen Technical Manual" by Henry Elfrink. This book
was published in the 60s & 70s and covers beetles up
to 1965, and has a blue cover (paperback) with a front
view of a bug on it.

I am also interested in any pre 58 VW literature, etc.

Here's what I have for sale:

VW Beetle & Super Beetle Repair Manual - 1970-75  Haynes  $15.00

Volkswagen 1300-1500 - 1965-1967  - Intereurope (UK)   $15.00

VW Performance Tuning 1961-1973  - Clymer Publications  $20.00


For Trade for Early Beetle Literature:

1958 Karmann Ghia Owner's Manual  -Fair Condition
1967   "       "     "      "      Good Condition
1968   "       "     "      "

1962 Karman Ghia Owner's Manual     Good Condition

1961 Beetle Owner's Manual    Excellent Condition

1958 or 9 Transporter Owner's Manual  - Fair to Good Condition

1961 VW Dealer List  - Good Condition
1963 VW Dealer List  - Good Condition
1964 VW Dealer List  - Good Condition
1965 VW Dealer List  - Good Condition

1963 VW Service Booklet - Good Condition
1964 VW Service Booklet - Good Condition

Service Without Guesswork - Type 1,2 and 3 - Published by VWAG...
"This booklet contains all major measurements and adjustments for
Type 1,2 and 3 Volkswagens imported into the USA and Canada
1960 through 1970"


If you are interested, etc. e-mail me.

Ric
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: hersh@expo.lcs.mit.edu (Jay Hersh)
Subject: Re: Used GTI's
Organization: X Consortium, MIT Laboratory for Computer Science
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 00:55:40 GMT

jmps@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (J. M. Sauer) writes:

>In article <C15wF3.JCE@apollo.hp.com>, heff@apollo.HP.COM () writes:
>> 
>> I'm looking at buying an '87 GTI.  Any recommendations (good/bad) on these
>> cars?  I'm looking at both the 8v and 16v versions.
>> 
>> One of them has had the hood paint 'keyed', and there's a crack in the paint 
>> in another spot.  How are these cars with rust, in general?  
>>
>> jeff.
>> email: heff@apollo.hp.com

>I just sold an '86 GTI and would say they don't have a problem
>with rust.  The only rust I had was where dings scratched the paint.
>If I took care to catch it in time and touched up the area there was no
>problem.  I had no paint cracking.  You might want to make sure
>the area was not repainted because of an accident.  

Hmm, the paint integrity on my 86 is one of the dissapointing things
about it. I have several little bubble spots on the hatch and on the doors
and the body around the doors. I already have had some of these fixed
and now have a few more...

>The weak areas of that vintage of GTI from my experience at 92,000 miles
>are the recall items if not done (fuel transfer pump, heater core),
>seat frames cracking, seat bolsters wearing out, door latches sticking,
>door window mechanism cable wearing thru.  The engine was still very
>strong and burned no oil.  The struts/brakes of course were replaced.

My seat frame gave out on the drivers side and seat bolsters have worn
through, but I am not sure if the seat frame crack was not linked to
an accident last year (though ideally they should handle accident stresses
as well)

>I had no transmission clip problems that I hear some people have had.

My tranny also is holding up well (knock wood) at 90K.....

Good luck in your search, your in for a fun drive....

	JaH


--
Hopfen und Malz, Gott erhalts
Organization: University of Maine System
Date: Monday, 25 Jan 1993 16:36:25 EST
From: Erik Sette <IO00139@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: European Car Mag

Did anyone read the new issue of European Car. I have a question
maybe someone out there will have some insight. I was reading
about the new A3 which I have to say looks like a bitchen machine.
Why are we not going to see those beasts over here for one,
and if we do they will be limited to 125 mph. Why limit the VR6
to 125 mph. Surely it can do that with out much problem. I can
probably mod my 1984 GTi to do that. Hell I've gotten my car
up to 115mph without any mods except a sport sound muffler. Well if
anyone could shed some light on the A3 I'd like to hear it, and so
would alot of other VW owners I know. Any replies would be appreciated.



<><><>
-es
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw