HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Building a Wall Unit
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 92 22:59:22 GMT

In article <1992Sep14.192137.826@afit.af.mil> fkilpatr@afit.af.mil (Freeman A. Kilpatrick) writes:

>This brings up an interesting point.  Most of the plans I see in magazines
>for wall units, armoires, large bookshelves, etc., call for hardwood ply
>as the main construction material, with normal hardwood for doors, face
>frames, etc.
>
>Is this strictly because of money?  If I have the $$, would it be better
>to build out of solid wood, or would (no pun intended) I be asking for a
>lot of trouble?  I think projects made with plywood, even hardwood plywood
>generally look kinda cheap.  Maybe I just haven't seen the higher quality
>plywoods -- can they really pass for solid wood?

Actually, plywood may be more expensive per board foot than solid material
is. Normally plywood is used because  1) who wants to spend the time gluing
up large panels if plywood will look as good and be more stable.  2) It's
really a shame to use up as much clear lumber as a large project will use
when you don't have to.

Yes, you're asking for trouble if you glue up large panels, but the cure
for this is to make frame and panel units, making the panels smaller and
thinner.

IMO, the "cheap" look to most plywood projects is the fault of the project,
not the material. Either the design itself is shabby and knocked together,
or plywood isn't the right material for the job. In the former case, it
would look just about as cheap in solid material.

Yes, plywood *can* pass for solid. In cheaper plywoods, the face side
veneer will be peeled off the log. You'll see an odd grain pattern,
repetitions of patterns and knotholes, and few if any seams in the sheet.
The better grades use thinly sliced slabs which are sawn from the logs
and will be about 3" or so wide. The effect is the same as that of gluing
up well matched solid stock. Actually, the effect *should* be the same -
it *is* glued up solid stock (about 1/32" thick). The problem (as always)
is to cleverly hide the plywood edges. Once again, the cure frequently
is to make frame and panel units.

patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | There are very few personal problems which
George Patterson -  | cannot be solved by a suitable application
                    | of high explosive.
                    |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ramos@cbnewsj.cb.att.com (richard.ramos)
Subject: table saw recommendations
Organization: AT&T
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 13:46:39 GMT


Sorry if this comes up too often but I've decided to replace my toy table
saw with a real one and could use some netwisdom. 

I'd like to get a contractor-type saw with a replacement fence (probably
a Vega).

I've narrowed my list of potential choices to 3 saws:
		grizzly  (cheaper model)
		delta contractor's saw
		powermatic artisan 

I'd like to buy American but not at any cost.  Also, I don't have easy access 
to any of the saws except the delta which I can examine at a local home depot.
Because of this, my decision may ultimately be based primarily on reputation 
and on documented features along with the feedback I get from the net.

The grizzly is the least expensive and also the only one of the three which
would require me to buy a fence from a different vendor eliminating any 
chance of getting a package deal.  It has T-slots for the mitre guage which
is something I've heard would be advantageous.  I believe it's also the 
only Taiwanese (sp?) saw on the list.

Many places are selling the delta with a 30" unifence which makes it's price
more competitive.  However, it's still the most expensive of the bunch.
It also comes with stamped steel extension wings instead of the cast iron
grill type (comments?).  One place was selling this saw with a free EMS.  
In my mind (could be warped) this saw has the best reputation.

The powermatic is being sold with a 50" vega fence at a price between the 
other two.  However, at this time I don't have much information on the
saw and at this point would steer away until I get more.  I have heard
good things about powermatic but this may only apply to the model 66
which is way beyond my budget.  I'm not sure where this saw is manufactured
though I'm pretty sure the model 66 is made in the USA.

I'm in the process of collecting competitive specs on the saws so I should
be able to differentiate based on that but I'm still interested in real
world experiences or any other relevent data.  

Also, I don't think I can recieve email on the netnews server so 
if you respond via email send it to ramos@mtunm.att.com

Thanks in advance
Rich Ramos
908-576-6267
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas Rand)
Subject: Re: Reassembling and Finishing Chair
Followup-To: rec.woodworking
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Date: 8 Sep 92 16:00:29

In article <jeffz-080992081804@tuolumne.cray.com> jeffz@cray.com (Jeff Zais) writes:

   I'm currently working on an old chair which needed to be re-glued 
   and to be refinished.  So far I've disassembled the chair into 
   19 pieces and removed the old finish with Formby's.  I'm about
   to begin glueing the chair back together.  Some of the dowels
   clearly will be replaced, but during the disassembly most came 
   apart intact.  What is the best thing to do with these dowels?
   Should I just put some glue on and clamp things up?  If so, should 
   I put something else into the hole so that there will be an extra 
   snug fit? Should I rough up the surfaces a bit?  Should I go through 
   the bother of removing all of these dowels, even though one end 
   of them is quite solid?  

I'd mostly leave them alone,  especially if they fit reasonably
tight in their holes.  If they don't,  then you can try cutting
a kerf in them and adding a small wedge to expand the dowel.

I wouldn't remove any dowel that is secure.  If it ain't broke,
don't fix it.

   On the question of finishing, I've gotten some advice about mixing
   Watco oil and polyurethane as a final finish coat.  Any good 
   references out there on general refinishing, and this in particular?
   Something that could answer questions like "what is the difference
   between polyurethane and varnish as a finish?" would be good.  

I don't know about mixing Watco and poly.  Watco *is* a varnish.  
The difference between Watco and poly is the base polymere.  Watco
is oil based and poly is urethane based.  

Unless you think the chair will get alot of water on it,  I might 
suggest Watco by itself or an oil finish like boiled linseed oil.
These are pretty easy to apply and the results are nice.
--
Douglas S. Rand <drand@osf.org>		OSF/Motif Dev.
Snail:         11 Cambridge Center,  Cambridge,  MA  02142
Disclaimer:    I don't know if OSF agrees with me... let's vote on it.
Amateur Radio: KC1KJ
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: obrien@coag.serum.kodak.com (John O'Brien (x37279))
Subject: Woodworking Society
Keywords: groups society
Reply-To: obrien@serum.kodak.com
Organization: Clinical Products Division, Eastman Kodak Company
Distribution: wny
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 16:50:17 GMT

Does anybody have any information about the Rochester Woodworkers Society?
I called their Hotline number for more info and got a recording that dated
itself back to May. Since nobody has returned my call I am wondering if this group still exists. The application form I have gives some info but not
enough. Thanks!

John O'Brien
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Cutting with a Router?
Date: 6 Sep 92 16:56:33 GMT
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ

In article <Bu0z9v.867@math.uwaterloo.ca> alopez-o@neumann.uwaterloo.ca (Alex Lopez-Ortiz) writes:
>
>It occured to me that it may be posible to cut 1" wood with the right
>bit using a Router. 
>
>Is this true or is it unreasonable?

Yes, and yes.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | I had been told that the best defense is a good
George Patterson -  | offense, so I made up my mind early in life to
                    | become as offensive as possible.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: Fences & Hold-Downs
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 1992 03:05:00 GMT

patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie) writes:
: Does anyone out there know how much a board foot of pressure treated
: pine weighs? I need exact enough information to be able to calculate
: how much lumber I can get in a 1,200 pound truck load.

The weight can vary quite a bit - depending on the moisture content.
I do not know what a dry board foot weighs - maybe someone else has
the information.

You might try loading your truck with 1200 pounds of brick, or some
similar material, and look at how the springs react. You can then load
the truck with lumber until you get the same effect.

Bill
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: guy@slustl.slu.edu (Guy Smith)
Subject: Re: Black Walnut
Organization: Saint Louis University  Saint Louis, MO
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 17:41:53 GMT

In article <DRAND.92Sep9111411@spinner.osf.org> drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas Rand) writes:
>In article <18k8lpINNnes@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> ag423@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Frank Fijalkovich) writes:
>
>   A friend of mine has a black walnut tree in his back yard that he
>   wants removed. Does anyone know if tree is worth anything and
>crotchs and burls for turners or veneer cutting.
I used to work with a couple of gun collectors who told me that crotch
walnut is highly prized for fancy gunstocks. You might try a gunsmith
if this idea appeals to you. I once looked into milling a walnut log
that a friend had (which turned out to be unusable). The mill was interested
but they wanted it delivered. Even if the log had been usable, the
expense of hiring a truck would have outweighed the money (or equivalent
sawn lumber).
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: loyd@seq.uncwil.edu (David Loyd)
Subject: Woodworking books for sale!!
Organization: Univ. of North Carolina @ Wilmington
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 1992 04:35:39 GMT


I have the following woodworking/project books for sale.
They are in excellant shape and, sad to say, have never been
used. I bought them just prior to moving from a house w/ a two
car garage which housed my workshop to a house with an 8'x10'
attached shed.
All are hard backed except the first one.

The Master Craftsman Illustrated Woodworking Manual
77 Furniture Projects You Can Build
33 Useful Projects for the Woodworker
Do It Yourselfers Furniture Repair & Refinishing
Build Your Own Wood Toys, Gifts & Furniture
101 Outstanding Wooden Toy and CHildrens Furniture Projects
Colonial and Early American Furniture Projects
Making Folk Toys & Weather Vanes
Designing and Building Childrens Furniture
Backyard Builders Bonanza
77 One Weekend Woodworking Projects
Home Wiring: From start to finish
46 Step by Step Wooden Toy Projects
Woodworking Techniques and Projects

First come / First Serve on the books with decent offers.
THe more you buy the cheaper they become.
Please email offers to the account below.
Buyer pays shipping 

THank you for your support!

-- 
                       Amiga 2000     9megs Ram       52Meg Quantum HD  
loyd@seq.uncwil.edu    2400 Modem         Sony KV-1311CR Monitor 
                       MR '020 w/ 25mhz 68882     Epson LQ-510 Printer 
					          Tanberg 60meg QIC Tape Drive
From: carlson@dwp.la.ca.us (Carlson Peters x7898)
Newsgroups: rec.skiing
Subject: Re: Need Tahoe Suggestions
Date: 3 Sep 92 15:26:33 GMT
Organization: Los Angeles Dept. of Water & Power

In article <1992Sep2.210742.16990@mksol.dseg.ti.com> whitley@mksol.dseg.ti.com (harlon whitley 952-2342) writes:
>How about Mt. Rose, in Tahoe, overlooking Carson City I believe.
>Fine skiing area, less crowds, good snow and nice employees.

No, bad choice.  All beginners go to squaw.  Its bigger, it MUST be better.
-- 
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Carlson Peters			L.A. Dept. of Water & Power
carlson@manta.dwp.la.ca.us	111 N. Hope St., Room 1129
213.481.7898			L.A. CA 90012
Newsgroups: rec.skiing
From: leiman@armos.engr.washington.edu ()
Subject: TIFF file from Chrystal Mountain resort
Followup-To: rec.skiing
Organization: University of Washington
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 21:23:57 GMT

I just happened to have the Chrystal Mountain Resort's trail map in
my office and scanned it with a HP ScanJet+ to MacIntosh. The image
is about 8x11" scanned at 75 dpi and saved in TIFF grayscale format 
and compressed in LHZ-64.
It is publicly available via anon. ftp at milton.u.washington.edu
in file /public/Skiing/Chrystal_Mtn.TIFF
but I can't keep it there for long since it grabs 420 kB and disk
space is scarce.

I you have OmniPage Professional installed in your MacIntosh, it's
easy to read the image on screen and print it. I suppose other kind
of software on other platforms could make use of the TIFF file too.

Please send email if you can make any use of the image file. I'm 
curious to see if time is ripe yet for providing any such image database
type services on Internet. (probably not)

-- 
Ian Leiman, M.Sc.(EE)            leiman@armos.engr.washington.edu
4106 Dayton Ave. North           home:   +1 206 545-4967
Seattle, WA 98103                office: +1 206 685-2872 (UW/CISO)
From: glenb@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Glen Baker)
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 23:32:26 GMT
Subject: rec.skiing FAQ 05/13
Organization: What, me? Organized?
From: mueller@delta.cs.fsu.edu (Frank Mueller)
Newsgroups: rec.skiing
Subject: Re: You have to fall to learn?
Date: 15 Sep 92 20:09:09 GMT
Organization: Florida State University Computer Science

In article <2qzn9pa@quantum.on.ca>, eric@quantum.on.ca (Eric Johnson) writes:
> >>In <14599@auspex-gw.auspex.com> johnf@Auspex.COM (John Fereira) writes:
> >the mud.  He said, "If you don't fall, you aren't learning".  This is also
>            ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> >true for skiing.  You have to challenge yourself, and fall as a result.  The
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> 
> I keep hearing this from all sorts of people. Its one of those truisms which 
> I feel is quite false. You may have to make mistakes to learn. Those mistakes
[...]
> Like you say, nobody benfits when you ski a run that is *way* beyond your ability
> to ski. I would define 'beyond your ability' as a slope on which you make mistakes

All of you have a point. BUT: Try to distinguish:
(a) falling because of overestimating your abilities (i.e. beginners on double
    D's or way too fast);
(b) falling because you try something new, something challenging and you are
    well aware of the possibility to fall.

In the latter case, you'll make sure that you cannot hit or hinder anybody else.
Furthermore, I *do* believe in learning from mistakes. I took on trick skiing
(ballet, hot dog, simple jumps) some years ago, busted my bud just as I did
when I first started skiing, almost ripped out one pair of bindings out of an
obviously too long pair of skis, doformed the tip of one ski, etc. But today
there is hardly any day I spent on the slopes w/o enjoying trick skiing.

More than that: If I ski moguls I can recover more gracefully. Where you talk
about being out of control for < 1 sec., I can often ballance it out on one ski
(yes, even in moguls!), but the weight on the inner ski, sometimes referred to
as the *wrong* ski to put weight on in a curve. This is not so, there are no
rules for trick skiing, as long as you keep your metal egdes away from other
people! (Try to ski with your skis on the "wrong" side, i.e. legs crossed, then
try to make curves, there is virtually no end to what one could come up with.)

I used to race down slopes in 2 min., wait for 10 min. in line, another 10 min.
in the lift -- just to race down again. I detest this style today. I enjoy hot-
dog on moguls and take quite some time on blue and green runs for simple ballet.
Thus, I can easily get 15 min. of enjoyment out of one run! (And I admit that
I enjoy the confused look of spectators:-)

Also, I still fall. And learn.

Frank
mueller@cs.fsu.edu
From: johnc@yuma.ACNS.ColoState.EDU (John Cooley)
Newsgroups: rec.skiing
Subject: Re: Winter Park, CO
Summary: Better than Cleveland
Date: 8 Sep 92 15:10:42 GMT
Followup-To: rec.skiing
Organization: Colorado State University, Fort Collins, CO  80523

In article <188je6INNq4e@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> an660@cleveland.Freenet.Edu 
(Sandy Maurer) writes:

>Does Winter Park in an average Dec, get much snow?

>My local ski club is planning a trip there in mid Dec
>and I would like to know if the resort would be worth
>the trip then.

While the skiing conditions in Winter Park vary widely from one year to the
next, they are _always_ better than the skiing conditions in Cleveland.

Winter Park usually manages to be mostly open by Christmas, at which time
they extract a large percentage of their annual gross from out-of-state skiers.
I must confess, however, that I have only rarely skied there in December.  I
have heard, however, that the week before Christmas can be exquisite.

I repeat that the variation from year to year is substantial.  Despite good
early leading indicators (snow in the high country in August), almost anything
can happen between now and Christmas, including extraordinary November snows
or a protracted Indian summer with an excellent fall mountain bike season.

November is the third snowiest month of the year in Colorado (after March and
April), but the locals are a whiney, picky bunch inclined to complain at the
slightest hint of hardpack, bases of less than 50", or too many people from
Away.  Base is almost always more than 30" by mid-December, but many rocks are
bigger than that.

      John Cooley
      NSCD, Winter Park
Newsgroups: rec.skiing
From: bruceb@microsoft.com (Bruce Burger)
Subject: Re: Whistler in November?
Date: 10 Sep 92 17:08:55 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp.

> I have a chance to visit the Whistler area in B.C. this November using
> a free airline voucher that runs out Dec. 1st.  Is it worth going to 
> the Whistler ski area that early?

In late November (Thanksgiving weekend) you probably have around
an equal chance of very good, good, fair, and lousy skiing at Whistler.
In early November it's likely to be fair or lousy.
Your chances are probably a little better in Utah, but not greatly so.
(I assume that's not an option, since you just asked about Whistler.)
Can you decide at the last minute?  That's always the best way to do
ski trips before Jan. 1.  

Bruce Burger
Microsoft, Seattle
Newsgroups: rec.skiing
From: jpenovic@encore.com (Jan Penovich)
Subject: Skiing Mag. question
Reply-To: jpenovic@encore.com
Organization: Encore Computer Corp., Fort Lauderdale FL
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 12:41:19 GMT

Does anyone have the phone number for customer service at
Skiing Magazine?  I have a subscription but haven't received
the Sept. issue yet. 

Please email the number (our site doesn't seem to get all the
posts).

thanks,

jan
********************************************************************
TTFN,    ___           *   jpenovic@encore.com
      / /   /  /\   /  *   
     / /___/  /  \ /   *  
/___/ /   /  /    /    *  
                       *   Encore Computer Corp., Ft. Lauderdale, FL
*********************************************************************

Newsgroups: rec.skiing
From: root@maxed.amg.com (0000-Admin(0000))
Subject: Volkl, Kastle, K2 skis FOR SALE
Organization: American Micro Group, Inc., Ft. Lee, NJ
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 19:51:15 GMT

Following go to the best offer:

Volkl P10 SLC (205) Marker M48 Titanium, exc., no base welds

Volkl P9 SL (207) Tyrolia FreeFlex 590, exc., no base welds

Volkl Explosiv R RS 207 Salomon 957, vg., 1 base weld

Elan RC (slalom 205) Tit. Geze 962 R, exc., no base welds

Kastle RX12 203 ESS VAR, exc., nearly unused

K2 VO Slalom 204 Salomon 957, vg 2 base welds

K2 VO Slalom 204 as new, un-used, un-mounted

K2 VO Slalom 204 Tyrolia 490, beat, no camber, rock ski, 490 fine

Raichle Flexon Pro size 11 un-used as new. Good bump boot.

All are cosmetically excellent, except the P9 SL, which is vg, and the
beat K2 which is what you'd expect.
-- 
Ed Whittemore   uunet!maxed!ed   ed@maxed.amg.com
American Micro Group, Inc.   201-944-3293
Newsgroups: rec.skiing
From: bash@tware.com (Paul Bash)
Subject: Re: pinhead.wannabe.postulant
Keywords: Tired of nailing heel to ski
Organization: Techware Design, Boulder, Colorado
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 16:25:07 GMT

In article <1992Sep8.182444.14008@delfin.com> mark@delfin.com writes:
>In article <goymqB4w164w@cruiser.uucp>, bdl@cruiser.uucp (Bob Lombard) writes:
>|> Hi-
>|> 
>|>   As that time of year approaches (not fast enough, IMHO) I've decided
>|> that I can't stand it anymore- *This* is the year I begin to learn
>|> Free heel downhill skiing. 
>|>   Some background:   I'm a strong & competent alpine skier, tho not an
>|> expert or extreme skier.  I spend 25-30 days a year skiing, a good portion
>|> of that teaching at the California Handicapped Ski School.  I have a pair
>|> of Fischer Town& Country skis, (track skis).  With these I've
>|> done *SOME* in-track, and even less out of track Cross Country, entirely
>|> day trips. 
>
>Equipment:
>
[...]
>
>Books:
>
>Especially with your alpine background, I strongly recommend Paul Parker's
>book entitled (I think) "Downhill Skiing". This book is written from the
                          ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

That's "Free Heel Skiing" and you're right, it's an excellent book.

>perspective that 3pin ski technique and traditional alpine downhill
>technique are based on common body positions and mechanics. I have minimal
>alpine experience but can tell you that this book improved my telemark
>immeasurably.
>
>Videos:
>
>There are two informative (and entertaining) instructional videos from
>NATO (North American Telemark Organization). The second is entitled
>"Revenge of the Telemarkers" and the first (probably the better introductory
>tape) tape's title currently escapes me. Not all of the technique
>advocated in this tape jives with the Parker book but there are a lot
>of good tips and inspiring footage of good skiers.
>

I have the first video you refer to and it is pretty good. I would much
prefer a video of Parker's book, but I haven't heard anything about one being
in production.


-- 
Paul Bash                                                   Techware Design 
bash@tware.com                                              Boulder, CO  U.S.A.
Newsgroups: rec.skiing
From: rflopez@paradyne.com (Bob Lopez)
Subject: Skiing Tahoe 12-05-92 to 12-12-92 then again 2-19-93 to 2-28-93
Organization: AT&T Paradyne, Largo, Florida
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 01:50:28 GMT

I am going skiing in Tahoe during the above mentioned dates any female interested in going?  I have a timeshare for the December trip and will be staying at Harveys Casino with my ski club in Feb. 

Me: 28 hex years old (40 decimal).  Good looking, healthy, Nice Guy type.

Write and lets see!