HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: kevins@eng.auburn.edu (Kevin Sullivan)
Subject: Re: Do SPOILERS Really Work???
Organization: Auburn University Engineering
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1992 15:50:23 GMT

In article <1992Dec15.190305.13468@news.cs.brandeis.edu>, andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang) writes:

|> In the early days of aerodynamic autos they put on long tails in the
|> expectation that the smooth re-entry would reduce drag and increase
|> high speeds.  After a while a Dr. Kamm observed snowdrifts in a
|> blizzard and noticed that the wave shape of a drift caused a vortex to
|> its lee.  Moreover the sum of the drift's shape and the vortex
|> together made a very streamlined (lo drag) shape.  Such vortices
|> behind bluff bodies are now called Kamm vortices and the original
|> cutoff rear ends with a little uplift were called Kamm-backs.  The
|> little uplift instigates a vortex and prevents a high-drag turbulent
|> wake.  I believe this was circa 1950.
|> 
|> -andy

I have a Plymouth Voyager minivan and am considering fitting a rear 
"air deflector".  My dad's Suburban and brother's Blazer both have 
these and they keep the rear of the vehicles clean, so I think it would 
do the same for mine.  A claim has been made that this will also reduce 
drag by sending air into the low pressure area behind the vehicle.  Is 
this truth or hype?  Would I see any increase in gas mileage at 65 mph?
From: wilson@schaefer.math.wisc.edu (Bob Wilson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Hypoid/nonHypoid gear lubes...
Date: 29 Dec 92 16:35:39 GMT
Organization: Univ. of Wisconsin Dept. of Mathematics

tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu (Terry Quinn) writes:



>> It is time to change my transmission oil in my 1973 BMW 2002.
>> The manual specifies explicitly that only Non-hypoid gear lube should
>> be used in the transmission. I have been to a couple of car parts
>> stores none of which had non-hypoid gear lube.
> 
>Does the manual give any other specification for the oil other 
>than "non-hypoid."  Hypoid oils usually contain extreme pressure 
>additives which can attack some components such as bronze.  That 
>is probably why they want you to avoid hypoid oils.  But there 
>should be a better technical spec for the oil than what you have 
>stated.

>--
>                                    Terry Quinn
>                                     Germantown Hills, IL
>                                      tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu
>from Compuserve . . .                  >INTERNET: tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu

I didn't realize BMW's wanted non-hypoid oil, but the reason Alfa's
did up until the mid 60's was just that the hypoid oil is too
slippery. The synchros were made differently and with hypoid oil they
slip and don't match the gear speeds, so the tranny is impossible to
shift smoothly. Castrol makes (or at least used to) an oil for this
purpose: I got a great big supply a while back, and don't know it they
still sell it. You do have to buy a drum of several gallons, and it
ain't cheap. (I could get the Castrol part number if needed.)
The Alfa manuals always specified Shell Dentax, which was
the product name in Italy for a Shell oil to use, which was available
here through places selling parts to Alfa owners, so you might check
them out too. When Alfa changed the synchros they marked the
transmissions with a special paint mark for several years so that you
could tell which oil to use, but I never heard of any differences
beyond the slippery-ness. That wouldn't by itself hurt anything but
repeated bad shifts could chew up things...
Bob Wilson
wilson@math.wisc.edu
From: pjh@mccc.edu (Pete Holsberg)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Brake Pad Noise
Date: 21 Dec 92 22:32:07 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: The College On The Other Side Of Route One

I recently replaced the factory pads on the front of my 85 Honda Prelude
with "parts store" semi-metallic pads (no-name). After a few hundred
miles, they make horrible noises when I step on the pedal -- squeals,
crunches, grinding noises, etc. -- but the stopping distance seems about
right. When I pulled the pads, they were coated with "dust"; removing it
gave me silent brakes again -- for a few days! (Incidentally, the rotors
felt fine). Also, my wheel covers are coated with this black dust.

Am I doing any harm by leaving these pads in?

Pete
From: choy@skorpio.usask.ca (I am a terminator.)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Jaguar XJ-12 is a Dog?
Date: 21 Dec 1992 20:20:01 GMT
Organization: University of Saskatchewan, Saskatoon, Canada
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: skorpio.usask.ca

In article <1992Dec16.184609.17292@ctp.com>, bpita@ctp.com (Bob Pitas) writes:
|> In article <92349.125018KXN2@psuvm.psu.edu> Karl Nordstrom <KXN2@psuvm.psu.edu> writes:
|> >wb8foz@skybridge.SCL.CWRU.Edu (David Lesher) says:
|> >>
|> >>The Wall Street Journal had an article about memorable dogs.
|> >>As I recall ... the XJ-12.
|> >
|> >A dog?  That engine produces more hp and torque than a '84-'9? Corvette!
|> 
|> But how much does it weigh?  I bet it ways alot more than a 'Vette.  

Hmm. I saw an ad for a jet engine weighing something like 1.5 kg per 100 hp.
Can I hook one up to my automatic transmission without overdrive?

-- 
Henry Choy
choy@cs.usask.ca

Hey kids, start jumping up and down like idiots.

Looking for LOG for a good price?

Dial 1-800-byBLAMO !!!!

"Log rolls down stairs. Rolls over in pairs. 
 Rolls over your neighbor's dog.
 It's good for a snack. It fits on your back.
 It's LOG LOG LOG!!!!"

             -- Ren * Stimpy
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: me@a81 (A.A. (Tony) Briggs)
Subject: Oil usage in rebuilt engine
Organization: MOTOROLA 
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1992 05:03:08 GMT

Recently I helped a brother rebuild/install a 1971 Volvo B2000 4-cyl  
engine. He used all new OEM parts, replacing almost all of the internals.  
We believe the machine work was done properly (rebore/hone, turn crank,  
valve guides, etc.) and appropriately sized new bearings were used. The  
engine has about 1000 miles on it now, and it runs well, but one thing  
bothers me ...

When he shifts (and ONLY then, thusfar) he gets a brief burst of white  
"oil burner" exhaust. That never happened with an equivalent engine I'd  
built for another car. I understand, of course, that it takes a while for  
everything to seat properly, but is seating the problem? Or is the problem  
more likely in improperly installed valve stem seals, or in improperly  
sized valve guides? The guides might not have been new. Since some auto  
machinists choose to rebuild/ream old guides, and I don't know what  
brother's machinist did in this case.

Question is, anything else I might consider a more likely problem area? Or  
am I simply worrying prematurely?
From: tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu (Terry Quinn)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: How do you remove frozen, stripped screws?
Date: 23 Dec 1992 22:04:43 -0600
Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway
Reply-To: tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu



> Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
> Subject: Re: How do you remove frozen, stripped screws?
 
> >|> a stripped screw.  Is there any kind of special tool, which when
> >|> "clamped-on" to the exposed screw head, allows for the exertion of much
> >|> greater torque?  Obviously, I've tried using the "vice-grip method".
> >|> What I'm looking for is a more optimal solution.
> >
> >The best one I ever heard is to weld a rod on the top of what's left
> >of the stud so that it is T-shaped.  Then you have a handle with some
> >leverage.  Of course, you need the welding equipment to do this.
> 
> Another way I have heard is to use impact screw driver. You use a hammer to
> hit the head of it, which converts the impact into turning force. Since
> the tip of the impact screw driver is on the screw, the tool gives a 
> hold down force on the screw head as well as turns it.
 
There is also a tool called an "easy out."  You drill a small hole 
in the top of the screw.  The easy out is like a tapered coarse 
drill bit with a left hand thread.  As you turn it ccw, it pulls 
itself into the hole.  If the original screw still has any 
threads, it will back it out. 

--
                                    Terry Quinn
                                     Germantown Hills, IL
                                      tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu
from Compuserve . . .                  >INTERNET: tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: johnr@bohra.cpg.oz.au (John Reid)
Subject: Re: Oil Priming System
Organization: Computer Power Software Group Pty Ltd
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 02:40:08 GMT

"Gary A. Woodward" <p00140@psilink.com> writes:

>Did not McDonnell-Douglas pay for a study that found that up to 80% of 
>all engine wear occurs when you start an engine up cold and dry.  I will 
>try to get a reference for the net.


I've heard of such a study, but I understood that it was conducted by th US
military, and that the only people who took up on it were the aerospace
industry. 

I believe the study was carried out in the late fifties or early sixties.
--
John Reid                                   ACSnet : johnr@bohra.cpg.oz.au
CP Software Export Pty Ltd,                 Phone  : +61 3 823 0222
19 Cato Street, Hawthorn 3123 Australia     Fax    : +61 3 824 8068
ACN 006 640 133
From: lfung@pase60.Convergent.Com (Laurie Fung)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Grease for Chrysler Vehicle
Date: 21 Dec 92 15:46:43 GMT
Distribution: na

Hi,

I need to know what is NLGL Grade 2 EP grease, it is stated in the Chrysler
Vehicle owner manual and this grease is also called Multi-Mileage grease.
What is this? I cannot find any grease with the same label in any auto stores.

All help are greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Laurie Fung
From: lfung@pase60.Convergent.Com (Laurie Fung)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Chrysler Mopar grease
Keywords: What is NLGI Grade 2 EP grease
Date: 29 Dec 92 20:54:17 GMT
Distribution: na

I was told that I must not mix grease with diferent base material. That
means I must use the same grease with the same base material as the 
grease already in the ball joints. The owner manuel called for a 
Multi-Mileage Lubricant for the ball joints. For the Steering Shaft Seal,
it called for Multi-Purpose grease such as NLGI Grade 2 EP.

I did go to the dealer to find out what grease they sold. The one they
shown me was the Multi-Purpose grease but without the NLGI Grade 2 EP. It
costs $3.50. That is the only grease they sold.

I need to know whether Multi-Purpose or Multi-Mileage greases are the same
and what is NLGI Grade 2 EP. What is the after market grease equivalent?
What kind of base material in these grease?

All responses are greatly appreciated.
Thanks!!

Laurie Fung 408 456 5848
From: shaig@Think.COM (Shai Guday)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 100 000 miles at redline
Date: 23 Dec 1992 17:48:04 GMT
Organization: Thinking Machines Corporation, Cambridge MA, USA
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: galaxy.think.com

In article <VBREAULT.92Dec23095520@rinhp750.gmr.com>, vbreault@rinhp750.gmr.com (Val Breault) writes:

|> A long LONG time ago a friend of mine was about to scrap out his 1959
|> Plymouth station wagon and thought he's send it off with a real BANG.
|> He started the engine (V8 318), tossed a cinder block on the accelerator 
|> pedal and ran like his pants were on fire.  

[long anecdote mostly deleted]

Wonder if he could have done that with a Chrysler....8^)

|> -val-
|> 
|> Val Breault - GM Research - vbreault@gmr.com - N8OEF            \      /|
|> Instrumentation dept., 30500 Mound Rd., Warren, MI 48090-9055    \    / |
|> The opinions expressed by the author do not necessarily reflect   \  /__|
|> those of GMR or those of the General Motors Corporation.           \/   |___
|>  
|> 

-- 
Shai Guday		| 
OS Software Engineer	| 
Thinking Machines Corp. |
From: ah335@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Richard Banks)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Sugar in gas?  Test
Date: 3 Jan 1993 03:18:05 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: ah335@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Richard Banks)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc4.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, sherod@newton.Colorado.EDU (Scott Herod) says:

>I was wondering if there is some way to test for sugar/honey in the fuel 
>tank.  It's a long story involving a dog, a stereo, and the phone company
>but I am afraid I may now have some strange substances in the fuel


I'm sure I'm not the only one who wants to hear about this one.
If it's nothing to private please post the story to talk.bizarre.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 90 Justy Fuel Filter Replacement Problem
From: <LYBBC@CUNYVM.BITNET>
Date: Thursday, 31 Dec 1992 03:28:34 EST
Distribution: usa
Organization: City University of New York/ University Computer Center

In article <3592@voodoo.UUCP>, tat@voodoo.boeing.com (Tim Tallar) says:
>
>Has anyone had experience in changing the fuel filter in a 1990 Subaru
>Justy, with a carb?  The manual has a diagram showing it by the fuel
>filler,(inside the left rear interior side panel), but in the
>documentation, it says it is in the engine compartment.
>The manual also says that it is under pressure, and should only be changed
>by the dealer.  I have searched all over the engine compartment, and briefly
>behind the interior panel where the fuel filler is located.  Does anyone
>know where the fuel filter is located?  BTW I have a Fram filter, the one that
>was listed in their catalog as the replacement.
>

    Well, according to chilton's manual the fuel filter is located next to your
 fuel pump which is under the center of the vehicle. Don't forget to disconnect
 the fuel pump and also to block the inlet to the fuel filter.

     Have fun working under the car.

Felix.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bob1@cos.com (Bob Blackshaw)
Subject: Re: The case of the exploding distributor cap. Need help.
Organization: Corporation for Open Systems
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 21:02:10 GMT

In <BzM5Ar.M50.2@cs.cmu.edu> murthy+@EDRC.CMU.EDU (Sesh Murthy) writes:

>|>  SM> The rotor exploded and took entire distributor cap with it.  
>|>  SM> At the same time, it set the distributor cap on fire right under the
>|>  SM> coil.  I put out the fire but could not see the extent of the damage.
>|> 
>|> My hypothesis is that the explosion was caused by ignition of gas fumes from the
>|> fuel tank vapor recovery system. If so, this would indicate that the fuel vapor
>|> recovery system cannister and/or the PCV valve require service/replacement.
>|> Possibly this was exacerbated by a worn distributor shaft.Unless you take care
>|> of these, you can expect another explosion to occur with the new (used)
>|> distributor.
>The distributor shaft looks just fine to  me.   How am I supposed to find out 
>if it is worn.  I asked a GM mechanic and he said he could not find any problem.

>There are no gasoline fumes in the egine compartment.  
>I doubt that the fuel recovery system is leaking.  I am quite sensitive 
>to the smell of gasoline.

>The PCV valve has been replaced earlier.  I do not see a connection with the explosion.

>I think the rotor broke apart due to centrifugal force.  It was probably defective.
>I think that before it broke up, it was warped and the friction set the cap on fire.
>But this diagnosis has too many holes.

>|> 
>|> Without going into detail, I don't think you have any reason for action against
>|> the mechanic in this case.
>That may be.  Why do you say this?

>Thanks for your reply.
>Sesh

Makes me think of a friend who owned a Studebaker (yeah, it was back in
the late 50s). Sometimes when he started the car, the distributor cap
would blow off. He eventually discovered that the vacuum advance dia-
phragm was perforated and occasionally gas fumes would work into the
distributor. First spark on startup and BANG. We all thought it was
a fun car.

Bob.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: smangan@src.honeywell.com (Stefanos Manganaris)
Subject: Limited-Slip differentials??
Organization: Honeywell Systems & Research Center
Distribution: rec
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 03:35:05 GMT


Hello---Could someone please elaborate on the advantages of a limited-slip
differential?  What about its internals?  How does it differ from a
usual differential?  

TIA,

Stef.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ming@enel.ucalgary.ca (Yang Ming)
Subject: help on '80 honda transmission
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 92 22:36:20 GMT
Distribution: us
Organization: ECE Department, U. of Calgary, Calgary, Alberta, Canada

Hi. I have an '80 honda civic station wagon with a 1300 engine. I constantly
have a problem with my transmission: when I shift off from gear 1, the
clutch won't disengage. I have to pump up the gas to speed up the engine to
get it disengaged. All the other shifts are fine. 

Anybody can tell me why this happens ?

Ming.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: All-Wheel Drive/4x4 Questions.
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 23 Dec 92 18:59:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> good for serious 4WD.  Some modern systems use a "viscous coupling",
-> a magic material which is nominally a liquid but solidifies in
-> the presence of significant center slippage.  These couplers are not
-> used with high torque engines (unfortunately, as they sound
-> wonderful).

 They *are* wonderful.  Ask anyone with a Jensen FF!


 "I'd like a small late-1960s British sedan with the engine compartment
crammed full of 440-4BBL Chrysler wedge, please.  Add the Torqueflite,
air conditioning, Dunlop Maxaret antiskid, and Ferguson full time four
wheel drive.  Uh... yeah, I'll take the leather interior too.  Can you
have it delivered?"

 Like the Maserati Biturbo or Yenko Nova, the Jensen FF is one of those
cars that simply look so *ordinary*...

=======================================================================
can you help me...help me get out of this place?...slow sedation...
ain't my style, ain't my pace...giving me a number...NINE, SEVEN, EIGHT
(Nazareth)               XJ900 TURBO at 15psi          DoD# 978  KotFAQ
=======================================================================
From: sheriffp@Software.Mitel.COM (Peter Sheriff)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Recommendations on Carb Rebuild?
Date: 21 Dec 92 13:06:06 GMT
Organization: Mitel. Kanata (Ontario). Canada.


   The only `equipment' that you might need to rebuild your carb is a 
choke angle guage. You may even be able to get away without that if the
choke opening is given in fractions of an inch rather than degrees.
   A rebuild kit usually gives a second lease on life to a carb. The only
things that may warrant a new carb are worn throttle shafts or cracks in
the carb body. Most other things can be fixed. 

                                  Pete
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: n3884@cray.com (Pete Palmer)
Subject: Re: Buick Century now has power!! 
Reply-To: n3884@cray.com
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 30 Dec 92 12:02:09 CST


---
In article 11640@colorado.edu, bowmanj@csn.org (Jerry Bowman) writes:
>In article <C01CuH.FH9.2@cs.cmu.edu> murthy+@EDRC.CMU.EDU (Sesh Murthy) writes:
>>So how exactly does this decarbonizing work?  Is it necessary only
>>on American cars?  (I took the head off a Honda Civic 1.3 L and it
>>had no carbon on it at 100,000 miles.)   Why did my car have all
>>this carbon anyway?  (it has 104000 miles.)
>     Now that you like the way it runs do yourself a favor. Get yourself a
>    Ware Vapor Injection System. They are very inexpensive.  They will keep 
>    carbon build up from happening again. They advertise better mileage more
>    power and all that too but the only real advantage I can see is keeping
>the cobustion chambers clean enough to eat out of.>

Where do I buy one of these?  I don't recall ever seeing one at my local name brand
parts stores.   Also, how inexpensive are they?? 

--------------------------------------------------
Pete Palmer (n3884@cray.com)
--------------------------------------------------

Anyone who has considerably meditated on man, by profession or vocation,
is led to feel nostalgia for the primates.  -Camus
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Selection of High Performance Carb
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 28 Dec 92 13:03:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> Also, does anyone know of an aftermarket manufacturer
->    of spread-bore intakes for the 429 CJ?   I am not sure
->    that the offenhauser 360 I have been lusting after
->         comes in a spreadbore configuration.

 Offenhauser can fix you up.  There's also a Ford spread bore intake,
but you might have to search hard.

 Use the TQ.  The others aren't even close.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Flywheel batteries as EV power source
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 23 Dec 92 19:14:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> when I have visitors in the lab.  I take a .308 NATO brass, load it
-> almost to the bottleneck with 2400 powder (a fast pistol powder) and
-> plug the top of the case with a wad of ordinary kitchen paper towel.
-> I load the whole assembly in my silhouette pistol and fire it

 I've fireformed .308 cases to 7.65x51 Mauser.  First time I tried it I
loaded the cases with 20 grains of Accurate #3 and stuffed a cotton ball
in the end to keep the powder in.  Since it was July 4, I didn't figure
anyone would notice if I stuck the barrel out the back door and popped
the case.

 BLAMM!  I didn't realize the sucker would be just as loud without a
f'ing bullet in there.  My ears rang for two days...
From: scott@psy.uwa.oz.au (Scott Fisher)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Emblems, names and meanings...
Date: 22 Dec 1992 03:33:27 GMT
Organization: The University of Western Australia
NNTP-Posting-Host: wapsy.psy.uwa.oz.au

mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu (Real Life?!?! HA!!) writes:

[stuff deleted...]

>The Jag logo (Head-on view of a jaguar) has been the same since at least the
>'50s.

Wow...thanks for all the interesting info.

Do you know anything about the "leaping" jaguar symbol?  
_______________________________________________________________________________
Scott Fisher [scott@psy.uwa.oz.au]  PH: Aus [61] Perth (09) Local (380 3272).                
                                                             _--_|\       N
Department of Psychology                                    /      \    W + E
University of Western Australia.      Perth [32S, 116E]-->  *_.--._/      S
Nedlands, 6009.  PERTH, W.A.                                      v       

Joy is a Jaguar XJ6 with a flat battery, a blown oil seal and an unsympathetic 
wife, 9km outside of a small remote town, 3:15am on a cold wet winters morning.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------