HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: mixing diesel and super unleaded to improve compression troubles?
From: rakoczynskij@gtephx.UUCP (Jurek Rakoczynski)
Date: 4 Sep 92 17:46:28 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: AG Communication Systems, Phoenix, Arizona

In article <95311@bu.edu>, vida@bu-geo.bu.edu (Vida Jakabhazy) writes:
> 
> My husband and I just purchased a '76 2002 in San Fran to replace one that was
> recently totalled by a moron.  It was determined readily during the pre-sale
> inspection that the fourth cylinder was running at half-compression.  We
> purchased it with the knowledge that we'd need to have work done on the car in
> Seattle before my husband drove it across the country at the end of our
> vacation.  
> 
> As we made our way up to Seattle, we were told by mechanics all sorts of
> temporary remedies for running on only 3 and a 1/2 cylinders, the oddest of
> which was to fill the tank 2/3sful with super unleaded and top off the last
> third with diesel [personally, the opposite seems easier ;-)].  We were told
> that the diesel would serve to coat and cool the engine, among other things.
> Does this sound kosher to anyone out there?  I'm back in Boston and my husband
> is on the road, so I'd be interested in getting word back to him if this
> proves to be sound practice.

I'm not sure I would run that much diesel, but about 1 gal diesel I'd
feel OK.  I guess he's trying to seal the piston rings or valve seats
with the oil.

I had an oil burner many years ago where 1 qt 2 cycle oil (or was that
regular motor oil I used?) in ~15 gal gasoline would reduce oil
burning from 1 qt in 60  miles to 1 qt in 300 miles.

-- 
Jurek Rakoczynski, AG Communication Systems, POB 52179, Phoenix, AZ. 85072
UUCP: ...!{ncar!noao!enuucp | att}!gtephx!rakoczynskij  Voice: +1 602 581 4867
Inet: gtephx!rakoczynskij@enuucp.eas.asu.edu              Fax: +1 602 582 7111
Inet: /DD.UN=J.RAKOCZYNSKI/O=GTE/PRMD=GTEMAIL/ADMD=TELEMAIL/C=US/@sprint.com
From: bcollins@axion.bt.co.uk (Bill Collins)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Power Locks
Date: 11 Sep 92 10:33:38 GMT
Reply-To: bcollins@axion.bt.co.uk (Bill Collins)
Organization: British Telecom Research Labs


In article <D2150040.d7fq21@destiny.howtek.UUCP>, paul@howtek.UUCP (Paul Rothenberg) writes:
|> Here's a strange one that started just a few days ago:
|> 
|> I have an '85 S-10 Blazer w/ power locks.  The passenger door lock
|> cannot be unlocked using power central locking. I can power lock the
|> door with no problem. The driver side door is OK both ways. 
|> 
|> Is the problem just in wiring, or am I in for something bigger? Any
|> help is appreciated. 


I had a similar problem recently, but in reverse: I could unlock all 
doors on my car including the boot (trunk), but the central locking 
would not lock the boot.

I initially checked out the wiring, but it was the actual motor unit
in the boot which was faulty. Replacing that cured the problem.

You need to gain access to the motor unit to check whether it is 
getting the volts it needs (may involve stripping trim panels off 
the door). Once there, you can put a voltmeter across it to see what 
happens when you try to lock or unlock it. In the case of my car 
(a Vauxhall Cavalier), it sends a short pulse of power to the motor, so 
you have to watch for that. The polarity was reversed to reverse the
operation of the motor (ie: "lock" or "unlock"). If it is getting the 
right pulse in both cases, then it must(?) be the motor unit.

Hope this helps.


Regards,
	Bill Collins

+-------------------------------------------------------------+
| Tortoise  : Software Development Division, BT Laboratories, |
|             Martlesham Heath, IPSWICH, Suffolk, IP5 7RE, UK |
| Hare      : bcollins@axion.bt.co.uk     +44 473 642760      |
| Disclaimer: It's MY foot in MY mouth !                      |
+-------------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: totty@flute.cs.uiuc.edu (Brian Totty)
Subject: ??? Mail-Order British Car Parts ???
Organization: Picasso Group, DCS, University of Illinois, Urbana-Champaign
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1992 19:46:38 GMT

	Can people send me the addresses and/or phone numbers for catalogs
	of British car parts.  I order most of my parts for my Triumph
	Spitfire from 'The Roadster Factory'.  I wanted to know what
	competition is out there.

						Thanks,


						--- Bri

   /                       Brian Totty             o o
  /__  __  o     Department of Computer Science     o  
 /  / /   /          1304 W. Springfield Ave       \_/  "We have corn in
/__/ /   /               Urbana, IL 61801                Massachusetts too!"
                        totty@cs.uiuc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: supercharged vehicle
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 92 11:38:59 GMT

Larry.Mc.Donald@ofa123.fidonet.org wrote:
: 
:  It tends to use up more gas because it is insensitive to engine 
: loading. Turbos use up more gas than normally-aspirated engines also.

Not always.  SAAB claims that the turbo cars get marginally BETTER mileage 
than naturally aspirated models, when not used in a turbo-stomping mode. 
It depends on how the turbo is set up, being for high revs only, or for
a wide torque band.

Obviously, when you turbo-stomp, you use more gas.  However, for cruising,
the turbo helps things along.  Also, the compression of the turbo, and the
wastegate, compensate for the backpressure induced by the turbo itself.

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.
hinzd@picard.med.ge.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: frank@resolution (& Esquivel)
Subject: Re: Good books to learn auto mechanics?
Organization: University of Chicago Computing Organizations
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 20:59:21 GMT

In article <1992Sep11.201020.3113@midway.uchicago.edu>  
epc1@quads.uchicago.edu (Merlin) writes:
> 
> If I were to recommend THE authoratative book on C shell scripts, I 
> would recommend The C Shell Fild Guide;  on C programming language, 
> K & R's The C Programming Language;  on motif programming, Heller's
> Motif programming Guide; on investments, Graham's The Intelligent
> Investor....
> 
> 
> What is/are THE authoritative book/s on automobile mechanics.  I would
> like to learn both theory and practical instruction.  My goal
> is to be better than 80% of the auto mechanics.  How do auto mechanics
> learn their trade?  (besides hands-on experience).
> 
> Any help would be appreciated.
> Thanks.
> 
> -- 
> En Pum Cho					
> University of Chicago Class of 1994
> math & economics major
> epc1@midway.uchicago.edu

I am studying to be a auto mechanic.  The correct title is Automotive  
Technician.  The vision of the grease monkey or alley mechanic is gone  
forever.  You now have to know as much about electronics and computers as  
you do about the actual car itself.  The best bet would be to go to a  
general bookstore and find some kind introduction to Automobiles and work  
your way from there.  There are a lot of things that happen in a car that  
people take for granted.  Once you know how EVERYTHING works, then you can  
start on the service part.  Hands-on training is the best way to go and  
the easiest to learn.  Always have a car handy, so you can see the system  
up close and actually see how it works.  As far as being better than 80%  
of the mechanics out in the field now, just learn everything you can about  
how each system in the auto works and you will have a good idea of what is  
happening when something should go wrong.  If you really want to learn, I  
hear good things about NRI schools in Washington D.C.  They have an  
at-home program that teaches you everything you need to know about  
servicing autos.  You get to learn in the privacy of your own home and at  
your own pace.  I have seen some of there manuals and I think that there  
great, but again, they recommend you have a car available to look at while  
you are learning.  If you need any info please feel free to contact me  
through e-mail:
		frank@delphi.bsd.uchicago.edu

Frank

P.S. I guess you can tell by my post that I don't really know of any  
titles of books.  I strongly recommend "hands-on training" to simply  
reading a book.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mac1@Ra.MsState.Edu (Mubashir Cheema)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
Subject: Help solve electrical problem in my car !!!!
Summary: electrical problem
Keywords: electrical problem
Date: 8 Sep 92 20:15:40 GMT
Organization: Mississippi State University



 Hello World,
	     I have a Nissan 2000SX that wouldn't start due to an electrical
 failure. All the electrical systems seem to work fine in the beginning.
 Battery is fine too. As long as the ignition is in 'ON' position everything
 is fine. But as soon as I turn the key to crank it up everything goes down
 and comes back after few minutes. 

 There is no sound of ANYTHING. It just dies.


 Maybe the solution is too obvious. A missing wire maybe ?  Any ideas ?
 Any help will be greatly appreciated 


Mubashir.
From: choi@crhc.uiuc.edu (Gwan)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: LEAN_RIGHT/FORWARD->ENGINE DIES (HELP)
Date: 15 Sep 1992 15:06:58 -0500
Organization: Center for Reliable and High-Performance Computing, University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign
NNTP-Posting-Host: worm.crhc.uiuc.edu
Keywords: 82 Nissa Sentra


Hello,

I'd truelly appreciate any insight into
what/where I should consider looking into
to fix a problem that I am having with my Sentra.

The engine dies everytime I take left turn or make a hard stop.
This happens when Gas tank is full..so I suspect it's not the
fuel pick up.
I am wondering what it could be.. and if you happened to
experienced similar (or if you are a insighful mechanic)
with Sentra or any other car, I'd really appreciate it if you
could tell me what might be wrong with the car.

Also the car puffs out white smokes in the beginning whe
engine is just started.  After while, it becomes ok.. 
Since it doesn't persist, it must not be piston-ring problem..
so..what could it be.....

Lots of thanks in advance for advices,
Gwan

	Please email choi@chrc.uiuc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mike%jim.uucp@wupost.wustl.edu (Mike Suter)
Subject: Re: tire speed ratings
Organization: BITS, St. Louis, MO
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1992 18:11:47 GMT

>  V           130+
>  93V         149

Unless things have changed very recently, all V tires are good for 149,
and the 93 is a load index, having nothing to do with the V speed rating.

Mike
-- 
mike%jim.uucp@wupost.wustl.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: Todd O'Connor <todd_oconnor@taligent.com>
Subject: Re: Jeep YJ
X-Date: Mon, 14 Sep 92 14:51:36 GMT
Organization: Taligent, Inc.
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d3
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 21:51:34 GMT

I also have an '89 Wrangler with the 258 and would very much like to get some sort
of fuel injection kit.  The MOPAR alternative is way too expensive and not
California approved.  A local Jeep wrecking/recycling yard has the 4.0L engine from
wrecked '91/'92 Wranglers for $1,000 plus my engine in trade.  Not a bad deal. . .

Any ideas how easy would the swap be or just go with a fuel injected Chevy instead?


tc
todd_oconnor@taligent.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mikeb@nowaksg.chem.nd.edu (Michael George Buening)
Subject: Re: A/C manifold gauges question
Organization: University of Notre Dame
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 16:23:39 GMT

In article <1992Sep9.230529.19206@gtephx.UUCP> rakoczynskij@gtephx.UUCP (Jurek Rakoczynski) writes:
>In article <1992Sep9.195545.4121@newsgate.sps.mot.com>, mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw) writes:

[stuff deleted for space]

>The R12 pressure (or is temperature the correct word?) in a
>non-operating system should be the same no matter what the total
>charge is, as long as there is still liquid R12 in the system.  For
>example, the pressure in a propane tank will read the same at a given
>temperature no matter how much propane is actually in the tank. 

Whoa!!! What is the logic behind this statement.  I'm not sure what
you mean here but I can't make sense of this.  As many of you know from
a simple chem/phys text:              PV=nRT
where P=pressure; V=volume; n=amount of the gas (in moles); T=temp
and R= gas constant.  When you change any one of the variables,
n,T or V, you change P.  If you have more propane in a tank at the
same temp you will have more pressure.  Because this is related to
n, or the amount of propane, you can correlate pressure with concentration
if you know what the volume is.



			--Michael Buening
			internet:mikeb@nowaksg.chem.nd.edu


From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: A/C manifold gauges question
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 01:04:12 -0500

 JR> In the Hayes auto A/C book I picked up to learn this stuff implies
 JR> using the gage pressure scale for reference (or I should say
 JR> does not mention using the R12 scale.  I understand using the R12
 JR> scale because of it's differant density, but am I missing something?

No. You use the R12 scale for the standard auto a/c refrigerant, and the R22
scale for the standard household refrigerant.



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dbowman@shade (Don A. Bowman)
Subject: Re: Need help on Installing a Kill Switch
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 14:42:50 GMT

ae454@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Paul Simundza) writes:
: 
: I need sum help on installing a kill switch in my car, like what do
: I kill, Power to the starter? How many Amps should the switch be able
: to handle? what Gauge wire would suffice? any other little tips I should
: know? thanks in advance!

Why don't you install a switch inline with the coil? The starter will
still crank, but the car won't start. Make sure you install it on the
low voltage side of the coil, though. 10 Amps should be plenty.

Another good place is on cars with a fuel cut-off (anti-dieseling) valve.
If you kill this, the car will actually start, and then stall right away.
A potential thief will likely believe you have car trouble and look for
easier prey. (This will probably not work on really exotic or expensive
cars). Simply add a switch which runs the ignition to the cut-off. When you
wish to start the car, open the switch. 1 Amp here should be sufficient.

Use your imagination to pick a good spot to hide the switch. Sometimes
your car will have a "fake" switch already for cosmetic purposes -- A/C
or somesuch. Use that.

Don.
-- 
Don Bowman                (519) 744-6154     dbowman@zeus.uwaterloo.ca
From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Recommendations re: 82/83/84 Mercedes....
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1992 23:44:22 -0500

 JN>    Uh, hey, fellows!  Thanks, but no thanks.  I don't want a BMW.  I 
 JN> want
 JN>    a MB.  I have no doubt whatsoever that a BMW is a fine piece of 
 JN> machinery,
 JN>    but if I parked it in the hippy commune where I live, I would get 
 JN> pelted
 JN>    with rocks by my neighbors :-)  They both make statements, of 
 JN> course, but
 JN>    they're different statements.  The MB would be considered a 
 JN> statement of
 JN>    solidarity by the community: "We're just as good as other folks, 
 JN> even if
 JN>    we *do* live in home-made houses and wear beards", whereas the BMW 
 JN> would
 JN>    be considered a statement by the individual *toward* the community:  
 JN> "I
 JN>    am a yuppie!".  Of course, if I painted it with day-glow pink and 
 JN> put some
 JN>    peace signs on it, perhaps....

I know how you feel; I have two M-Bs in my driveway and three more in my
garage.

If you want to restrict yourself to American models in the 82-84 period, you re
limited to a Diesel or a 380SE/SEL gas model. The 380 engine when it came out
had a single-row timing chain that gave a lot of trouble; most of them were
replaced with the double-row chain. Also, the climate control system was subject
to leaks and other problems (I forget which year that was improved).

If I were in the market for an M-B sedan, I would either drop back to the '81
280E or go forward to the 420SE/SEL or 300E.
From: berger@sfc.sony.com (Bob Berger)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: looking for electric vehicle group
Keywords: n
Date: 15 Sep 92 00:17:06 GMT
Organization: SONY Advanced Video Technology Center San Jose, CA USA

I will mail this, but others might be interested:

----- Begin Included Message -----


EV on LISTSERV@sjsuvm1.sjsu.edu -  EV Electric Vehicle Discussion
                                   Mailing List

The  EV Electric Vehicle Discussion Mailing List is  intended  to 
provide  a  forum  to discuss the current state of  the  art  and 
future  direction of electric vehicles.  It is *not* intended  to 
discuss  either  EV  appropriateness or  comparisons  with  other 
transportation primary drive modes such as the venerable internal 
combustion engine.  Those "discussions" are best relegated to the 
appropriate usenet newsgroup.

An  electric vehicle is any vehicle which uses an electric  motor 
as  the primary or sole motive force.  The energy storage  device 
used  to drive said motor can use any technology  including,  but 
not  limited  to,  solar  electric,  electric  battery,  internal 
combustion  engine  coupled  with a electric  generator,  or  any 
combination of these.  Production electric vehicles are currently 
available.  Internal combustion engine vehicles can be  converted 
to electric.  There exist a number of companies who perform this
conversion.  There is also a number of manufacturers of equipment 
allowing you to do-it-yourself. 

To  subscribe,  send the following  command  to  LISTSERV@SJSUVM1 
(bitnet) or LISTSERV@SJSUVM1.SJSU.EDU:

SUBSCRIBE EV firstname lastname

After  subscribing, messages may be sent to the list  by  sending 
to: EV@SJSUVM1 (bitnet) or ev@sjsuvm1.sjsu.edu.

Owner:  Clyde R. Visser, KD6GWN <cvisser@ucrmath.ucr.edu>

crv


----- End Included Message -----


-- 
Bob Berger  -  SONY Advanced Video Technology Center
685 River Oaks Parkway  San Jose, CA 95134 408-944-4964 FAX:  408-954-1027  
INTERNET: berger@sfc.sony.com   UUCP: [uunet,mips]!sonyusa!sfcsun!berger
From: wpcallah@RWASIC17.AUD.ALCATEL.COM (William Paul Callahan)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: A/C manifold gauges question
Date: 11 Sep 92 22:23:41 GMT

Now that we agree that a functiong A/C has a phase change, we can better
understand this system.  But I thought the origional post said the inlet
and outlet of the evaporiator (sue me - I don't spess for a living) were
both warm. I am familiar with suction throtling, expansion valve, and fixed
orifice systems - the suction control chamber is a new one, so what I have
to say might be off, but..

If the condesor is not restriced, then the inlet to the evaporator will have
liquid R12, and this should boil - resulting in a cool evaporator outlet.
(Generaly, on my fixed oriface '78 Suburban the inlet is cool as well, 
because the orifice is at the inlet connection). Our poster said he was
seeing 55psi (low side), and warm inlet.  300 psi on the high is more than I
would expect on a correctly functiong system. (Again, this system may be
different than I expect).

300 psi is sufficent to liquify the R12 up to 130F (I think, not having my
guages here), in any case I'd say the compressor works.  Since the low side
is also too high the question is what would cause this?

If there was a restriction on the high side, the inlet to the evaporator would
be cool, as the R12 would boil after the restriction, as the pressure droped to
55 psi.  If the oriface was plugged, I would expect the low side to be below
30 psi. It is not.

So, I think the compressor works, and the high side is not restriced - but
the high side is too high.

Why is the low side too high ? If the compressor was not working - unlikely.
If the oriface was too large? This would drop the high side pressure, and I
think the evaporator outlet would be quite cool.

I think the system is contaminated with air, reducing the heat capacity of 
the system, and raising the system pressures. It is also possiable, that the
oriface is way open, and the system way overcharged. (if this is the case,
the evaporator would be cool with a lower high-side pressure of, say 200)

R12 is 'spencive (unless you happen to have bought 120lbs after reading
about the international treaty to ban it in the mid-80s :). Since you
may have a contaminated system, it would have to be evacuated to fix,
and you cannot save the R12 - because it has air. You also don't want to 
re-charge this too many times.  If you have a contaminated system, did the
air come from a repair, an improperly purged charging line, or did you pump
some air into your freon source (this last not relevent unless you recover
R12 into 30 lb tanks).

In the end, make sure the facts fit the problem - the biggest problem with
A/C diagnosis is to remeber the phase change makes the ideal gas law 
inefective, and that the closed system makes the high side effect the low,
and vice-versa.

And I could be in east hyper-space....
     Good luck.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: neal@cmptrc.lonestar.org (Neal Howard)
Subject: Jeep Grand Wagoneer Steering
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 00:56:54 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: CompuTrac Inc., Richardson TX

I have a friend who has a 1985 Jeep Grand Wagoneer and is experiencing
a bizzare steering problem. It doesn't want to steer straight ahead very well.
If you just touch the steering wheel slightly to the left or right off of
center, the vehicle will then pull strongly to that side, not wanting to
return to center by itself. Once it is going straight down the road, you can
take your hands off the wheel and it will continue in a straight line just
fine until it hits any bump in the road big enough to cause it to turn. It's
been to two alignment shops that say the front alignment is within factory
specs. It's also got new tires (Goodyear raised white letter 4wd types) on
all 4 wheels. It does this in 2 or 4 wheel drive the same and the pulling force
seems very symmetrically equal left and right, which ever way you start it
turning. It had this problem even with the old tires (Uniroyal Tiger Paws)
and we thought it was due to bad tires but new tires didn't change it.
My thoughts are that it doesn't have enough forward caster in the front wheel
alignment. (kinda like the sloppy supermarket grocery cart wheel syndrome)
Any thoughts or advice out there??? I've driven other 4WD vehicles and
none of them were as difficult to keep in a straight line as this one.
This vehicle also has a large hydraulic shock absorber type of steering
dampener on the steering linkage. The tie rod ends all appear to be in very
good shape and there's no problem with the toe-in/toe-out adjustment. Also,
could the power-steering gearbox unit be messed up perhaps causing
excessive power-assist when off center????

Help!!!
Neal Howard
=======================================================================
= Neal Howard                         | '91 Harley Sportster XLH-1200 =
= email: neal@cmptrc.lonestar.org     | DoD # 686                     =
= CompuTrac, Inc. (Richardson, TX)    | '69 Cougar XR7-GT390          =
=======================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech