HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: parnass@cbnewse.cb.att.com (Bob Parnass, AJ9S)
Subject: Re: Jointer vs Planer - Thanks
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories, Naperville, IL
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 23:07:40 GMT
Summary: what kind of jointer do you have?

In article <4320088@hpcc01.corp.hp.com>,
gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz) writes:
 
> ....Then I bought my jointer.  ... Edge glue
> the pieces, and the results are perfect.  Unless you can see where the grain
> changes direction, you CAN'T see the joint....
> Then there were the boxes I made with finger joints...Perfect results..

Sorry, I tried sending E-mail 3 times but it bounced each time.

What make and model jointer do you have?  Would you recommend
it to others?   I'm in the market for one.
Have you tried removing or adjusting the knives?  How difficult was it?
-- 
==============================================================================
Bob Parnass, AJ9S  -  AT&T Bell Labs  -  parnass@ihlpm.att.com - (708)979-5414
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: Jointer vs Planer
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 18:59:48 GMT

Becky Keifer writes
> I need some help in deciding which to get.
> I would like for this to be a surprise.

Robert Brown writes
> ...I decided to go with the jointer first...

Vance Morrison writes
> I too would recommend the jointer first. 

Tim Keifer writes
> ... I agree with the jointer being a more useful item at this time.

Well, Becky Keifer, looks like Tim Keifer wants the jointer. Next time
get someone else to post for you ;^)


But, this seems to leave me alone in thinking that I'd get the planer
first. Assuming Tim already has some other tools, like a tablesaw or a
router, perhaps a hand plane, he has enough to do edge jointing, which is
what most people use a jointer for. Jigs for doing edge jointing on a 
tablesaw or with a router (hand held or in a table) have appeared in issues
of Woodsmith, for instance, over the years. You can even make a sled jig
for a router to do face flattening.

But, it's a *lot* harder to use these tools to make one face of a board
parallel to the other.  And, unless you're willing to either have the wood 
you buy planed at a mill, you'll end up making things out of stock 
thicknesses, which is limiting. Also, I've found that the thicknesses
of boards, even at the same yard, vary quite a bit from board to board.

So, what am I missing?

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
From: ron@topaz.bds.com (Ron Natalie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Safest way to use radial arm saw?
Date: 18 Dec 1992 21:29:53 GMT
Organization: BDS Systems
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: topaz.bds.com

>   > Is it best to push the blade through the work, or pull it through the
>  > work.
> 
>  Push, always push.


WARNING WARNING DANGER DANGER...WRONG ANSWER.  I was not paying attention.
I thought the question was when ripping should you pull or push the wood.
Push the wood, pull the saw.

My appologies.
From: John.Polhemus@p909.f70.n109.z1.fidonet.org (John Polhemus)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Scroll Sawing
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1992 12:07:24 -0500

Just picked up this area, thought I'd drop a note to see if anyone else out
there is making a buck on their scroll saws.

We do some high end craft shows in the Mid-Atlantic show circuit, beats the heck
out of my 'real' job.

Later, JP
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: paul.robinson@rose.com (paul robinson)
Subject: Sears Drill RFI
Organization: Rose Media Inc, Toronto, Ontario.
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1992 21:18:05 GMT
X-Gated-By: Usenet <==> RoseMail Gateway (v1.70)


Date Entered: 12-12-92 16:06

I'm in the market for a cordless drill just at the moment.  I was
planning to go with a Makita or Porter Cable or Ryobi but I notice at
the moment that Sears has their 90 Series 9.6v Cordless on sale for a
good price.  Normally I would not consider buying a Sears power tool but
this drill looks a lot like a Ryobi and the price is certainly right.

Can anyone tell me if it is actually a drill made by Ryobi under the
Sears label?

I would also very much appreciate any comments pro or con on this model.

Many thanks in advance!

        Paul    (PAUL.ROBINSON@ROSE.COM)
          My opinions are mine alone.  My employer doesn't deserve them!

---
   RoseReader 1.70 P001090: I'm in shape ... round's a shape isn't it?
   RM 2.00 : RoseNet<=>Usenet Gateway : Rose Media 416-733-2285
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: gcohen@mailer.cc.fsu.edu (Gregory Cohen)
Subject: Re: Safest way to use radial arm saw?
Organization: Florida State University
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 92 19:11:33 GMT

>
>> Do I set up the fence so that the saw is parked the furthest away from me
>> behind the fence? Or do I park the saw closest to me in front of the fence?
>
>I assume we're talking ripping here from the context.  The fence goes to the
>rear with the arm and the motor locked in front.  At least on my saw there
>are two interesting things that adjust the capacity.  One is that the fence
>can be placed in on or two places (the paritcle board that makes up the table
>has three pieces so the fence piece can be inserted eiher side of the center
>piece).  Also the head can be loked in the ripping position to either the
>left or right side.  There are two indicators on the ruler depending on
>which your using.
>
>> Is it best to push the blade through the work, or pull it through the
>> work.
>
>Push, always push.


Are you sure about this?  we are talking about a radial arm saw here.  From 
context I'm understanding that this person is cross-cutting (unless I've 
missed something) as such they should pull the Radial Arm Saw Blade toward
them through the wood.  It would spin the wrong way to push it.  In such a case
Pushing the blade through the wood would be a mistake.  Now I may be missing something ... but ..

.>
>> I also have one of those wobbling dado heads, and consider it to be the
>> most vicious tool I've ever seen!  How do you put the guard on that beast?
>
Most blade guards for RA saws do not accept dados ... dont use it .. The blade 
may seem deadly, but it's not (is it a sears wobble ... those are good if you
have the spacer that lets it fit your saw)  the only problem with wobbles is 
with finding where the edge of the dado is. In other words, it's hard to hit
the mark.

Go to sears and look at a manual for a new one ... the technology has not
changed much at all.


GReg
gcohen@mailer.cc.fsu.edu

From: spangler@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Bill Spangler)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 17:26:31 GMT
Subject: Re: Brio Toy Parts
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

> A question for all the woodworkers who receive tons of catalogs. Recently,
> I received a catalog which contained the parts to make Brio toys.  This
> company sold the tires, axle tacks, magnets etc. Unfortunately, I round
> filed it. As if that weren't enough I also forgot what the company name was.
> If there is anyone who has this catalog or the name of the company I would
> really appreciate " the answer " Preston.Jones@launchpad.oit.unc.edu

I don't know about "clone" parts, but there used to exist (and probably 
still does exist) a Brio set of spare parts.  We purchased one about 7 
years ago, when we purchased large amounts of Brio train stuff.  We haven't 
needed to use any of the spares yet, so they are still sealed in plastic, 
but our spares set contains the following parts:

     20  wheels (red plastic)
     20  magnets (each red/green)
     40? tacks (for axles and couplers)
     10  wooden pegs (track joiners)

The box has the following markings (plus translations):

     Brio
     "Wooden Railway"
     No: 3392             }  manufactured during a transition
	 31405/92         }  in their product numbering scheme??
     "Spare Parts"

I would expect any good Brio dealer to stock spare parts sets like this, 
or at least be able to order them.  
 
Bill Spangler
From: ron@topaz.bds.com (Ron Natalie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Safest way to use radial arm saw?
Date: 18 Dec 1992 17:07:41 GMT
Organization: BDS Systems
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: topaz.bds.com

I've got both a table saw and a radial arm (I also inheritted a Sears RAS,
cep't mine was top of the line and had never been removed from it's original
carton).  I sort of feel like Norm.  I rip on the table saw and the go 
crosscut on the RAS.  Now if I has half a dozen routers so I didn't have to
change bits...

> Do I set up the fence so that the saw is parked the furthest away from me
> behind the fence? Or do I park the saw closest to me in front of the fence?

I assume we're talking ripping here from the context.  The fence goes to the
rear with the arm and the motor locked in front.  At least on my saw there
are two interesting things that adjust the capacity.  One is that the fence
can be placed in on or two places (the paritcle board that makes up the table
has three pieces so the fence piece can be inserted eiher side of the center
piece).  Also the head can be loked in the ripping position to either the
left or right side.  There are two indicators on the ruler depending on
which your using.

> Is it best to push the blade through the work, or pull it through the
> work.

Push, always push.

> I also have one of those wobbling dado heads, and consider it to be the
> most vicious tool I've ever seen!  How do you put the guard on that beast?

Don't know, I always use the table saw for the dado.

-Ron



From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 17:29:22 GMT
Subject: Re: Using Plunge Router in Router Table
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

pauls@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Paul Stafford) writes:
> I am using my Bosch 3 hp in an extension table of my table saw. no
> real problems, except it's sure heavy to lift in and out. I mounted the 
> router on a 3/8" plexiglass 8x13", set into a rabbeted hole in the table.
>
>  The Bosch has both the lever locking arm, and nuts on a threaded rod
>  to lock the router at any depth. A little inconvenient to adjust while
>  it's in the table.

   I use the Bosch 1615EVS in my tablesaw extension.

   I know what you mean about the nuts, however, mine came with a 
   2.5" diameter knob that fits over the nuts.  It works real nice
   under the table, though it is still a bit tedious to set the height
   long distances this way.  it is GREAT for micro adjusting bit 
   height though.

   I have seen an actual crank handle that fits over the nut, too, I think
   in Woodworker's Supply or some such.  I want to get one as this would
   take the tedium out of raising and lowering the stop nuts over long
   distances.
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Re: Dream Saw (long)
Date: 16 Dec 92 21:55:14 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: LLNL

In article <1992Dec1.195822.2855@adobe.com>, bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds) writes:
> 

> >    The problem I have with such saws is that it is hard to justify the cost
> >    for what you get.   I just won't be cutting that much stuff. 
> 

[followed by much stuff about saving time with better tools]

I'm certainly not going to criticize people for needing their own
justification for getting good equipment, but I decided some considerable
time ago that what really counts is whether I'm happy with what I have.
My real justification is "am I enjoying working with this tool?"  A crummy
tool creates enough bad vibes to offset the pleasure of woodworking.
Regarding table saws, I had a S***s that was so difficult to use that it
made almost all projects a drudgery.  I now have a G1023 which, although it's
not quite as nice as a Unisaw with a Unifence, is still a pleasure to
work with.  I'm certainly prepared to recommend either, and I suggest that
if you  have to sell or dump a saw you find you don't like and eventually
buy the saw you really like, you will have spent once for the crummy saw
and once again for the saw of your dreams.  It's really cheaper to bite the
bullet right away.

G.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bds@mbunix.mitre.org (Smith)
Subject: Re: HELP: Looking for info on exotic hardwoods (mail order woes)
Organization: The MITRE Corporation, Bedford, MA
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 20:50:46 GMT

In article <1992Dec16.193707.13831@inel.gov> kwi@INEL.GOV (Keith Wickham) writes:
>4/4 means rough cut to four quarters thick (one inch).  The wood may shrink
>as it drys to about 7/8.

This is an interesting point.  When I buy rough lumber, 4/4 is usually
1 1/8 inches thick.  After planing, if the wood is above average, I
can get a full inch thickness, although usually it ends up about 3/4"
thick.  Perhaps there are differences in the way different mills cut
the wood.  Or maybe the distributer I use is very generous (he
recently gave me a 4'X9"X10/4 S3S piece of red oak so I could practice
on my new lathe).

Similarly when I buy 6/4 the wood is usually 7/4 rough, and 8/4 wood
is always thicker than that.

Barry
From: twl10@ccc.amdahl.com (Tom Littauer)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Repair of Countertop
Date: 14 Dec 92 23:40:39 GMT
Reply-To: twl10@JUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Tom Littauer)
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

In article <1992Dec11.230830.7423@iitmax.iit.edu> SULLRON@MINNA.IIT.EDU (USERS) writes:
>I have just completed sinking a 2' x 3' maple breadboard in 
>my counter.  Upon cleanup of the tools and equipment
>I dropped my drill and chipped the plastic laminate counter top.
>Does anyone have any suggestions for filling in the hole?
>It's about .25" in diameter, I have the pieces, but they don't
>fit really well.  The top is off white with a light gold mottled
>pattern on it.

Someone else suggested inlaying a small circular patch... which almost
completely hides the problem. An alternative is to inlay a decorative
pattern instead. That way you don't have to worry about matching pattern
and the fact that the circular hole will always draw your eye to it.

Use a router and inlay kit (or bearing set) and template.

Good luck,
Tom
-- 
Tom Littauer at Amdahl M/S 278, PO Box 3470, Sunnyvale CA 94088-3470 USA
+1 408 737 5056     twl10@juts.ccc.amdahl.com     twl10@amail.amdahl.com
I'll tell you when I'm speaking as Amdahl's Spokesman - usually I'm not.
V'z n fgrnygu-grpuabybtl rapelcgrq .fvtangher ivehf - TBGPUN!!!
From: lane@duphy4.physics.drexel.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Piano kit
Date: 17 Dec 92 12:32:45 GMT
Distribution: all
Organization: Drexel University Physics

In article <x0k2w9f@rpi.edu>, ameres@ithaca.cat.rpi.edu (Eric Ameres) writes:
> I have heard of a number of places that offered harpsichord kits but
> never piano kits.  I would be skeptical about finding a kit because of
> the massivness of some of the components.
>

Yes, because pianos need a heavy iron frame to take the tension from all
those steel wires...harpsichords can use a wood frame because their strings
(gut?) are fewer and need less force to tension them.

If you *could* get a piano kit, it would probably weigh about as much
as the Grizzly band-saw "kit" mentioned in this group a couple of
months ago!

--

 Drexel University       \V                     --Chuck Lane
----------------->--------*------------<--------lane@duphy4.hepnet
     (215) 895-1545      / \  Particle Physics  lane@duphy1.bitnet
FAX: (215) 895-5934        /~~~~~~~~~~~         lane@duphy4.physics.drexel.edu
From: djt@merlin.caltech.edu (David Thompson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Watco oil
Date: 17 Dec 1992 14:24 PST
Organization: California Institute of Technology
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: merlin.caltech.edu
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    


hello fellow ww'ers

	Bear with me - I just discovered the net two days ago and I am still
trying to figure out exactly how this works.

	I wanted to reply to the question about the use of Watco oil, and
my own experiences with it. Basically, there are two uses: 1) with a top
coat of lacquer or some other finish, or 2) just the oil. My experience has
been:

	1) If you plan to apply a surface finish such as lacquer, there 
really is no need to apply more than one coat of Watco and allow it to 
dry for 3 days or so. In this case, the oil serves mostly to enhance the 
color/grain/figure in the wood. Sand to at least 180 before surface finish
is applied (or scrape, whatever works for you).

	2) If you plan to use just the oil, as I do on some of my turned 
bowls, sand to 320 or so before applying oil. The first few applications 
of oil (at roughly 1-hour intervals) should be sanded with 400-grit wet/dry
paper. Allow this to dry, making sure you wipe off all excess oil. I then 
usually finish the piece off with oil and 600-grit paper at 1-week intervals
(and VERY thin coats) until the desired luster is obtained.

	If I am doing this terribly wrong, I'd appreciate some input - I 
basically had to learn all of this on my own, but I am usually pleased with 
the results I end up with.

	That's my 2 cents worth. Usual disclaimers, if any apply, and no I 
don't have a .SIG file yet.

					Good Luck,  Dave Thompson
From: ericb@microsoft.com (Eric Brown)
Subject: Re: CORIAN for a router table top???
Date: 14 Dec 92 21:31:30 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp

Jay Keller writes:
|Related to the question of using Corian for a router table, I would like some
|suggestions on where to buy some.  I am remodeling a bathroom and I thought
|that a piece of Corian might be a nice thing to use as a backsplash behind
|a pedestal sink.  But the kitchen-counter places I contacted wouldn't consider
|selling me such a small piece, they had big-bucks minimum orders (like $650
|at Home Depot).  I'd probably use a piece about 8" by 21", somewhere around
|1/4" to 3/4" thick (I obviously haven't figured out exactly what I want to
|do yet).  One thing I know for sure is that it might be risky to just mount
|the sink to wall, which is covered with vinyl wallpaper (with a nearby seam).
|
|Thanks in advance,
|
|Jay Keller
|Sunnyvale, California
|
|badboy@netcom.com
|


You might see if there are any counter top fabricators or cabinet shops in
your area that make solid surface tops.  These types of firms usually have
lots of small scraps that they probably just throw away.  It wouldn't hurt
to call around and check.  And I am referring here to the actual fabricators.
Places like Home Depot are resellers; they subcontract the actual work.

-- 
    Eric
               Microsoft Systems, Advanced Systems Development
            {sun, uw-beaver, apple, uunet, fluke}!microsoft!ericb 
                       internet: ericb@microsoft.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: hfunk@src.honeywell.com (Harry Funk)
Subject: Re: Re: Scraping versus Sanding
Reply-To: hfunk@src.honeywell.com (Harry Funk)
Organization: Honeywell Systems & Research Center
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 16:55:46 GMT

In article <4320083@hpcc01.corp.hp.com> gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz) writes:
>In article <1992Nov5.102424@wsl.dec.com> gringort@wsl.dec.com (Joel Gringorten) writes:
>>
>>So then what's my problem?  I hate sanding.  Furthermore, even after spending
>>considerable time with increasing grits, there are still some tenacious deeper
>>scratches that are still visible left from some of the courser grits.  
>
>   These deeper scratches are simply because you didn't spend enough
>   time with the coarser grits.  Yep, that's right.
>
>   You sand with 80 grit, you get some fairly deep scratches.  If you then
>   switch to 150 grit, you will NEVER get them out.   That is your problem.
>
>   If you sand with 80 grit, you MUST then switch to 100 grit, and sand out
>   ALL the 80 grit scratches.  If you don't, progressing through the grits
>   will be a total waste of time.  After the 100, I use 120, then 150, then
>   200, etc.   At each step, make sure you get rid of all the previous 
>   scratches.

I think this might be a bit overstated.  I agree that the deeper scratches
are leftovers from coarser grits, and that it's easier to get rid of
scratches with marginally finer grits than the grit that caused the
scratches.  I don't agree with "never", simply because I've found myself in
situations where I didn't have 100 grit paper after sanding with 80.  I had
to sand for [quite] a bit longer with 120, but the scratches eventually
come out.  They would come out if you jumped to 150, too.  You might need
to change paper five times and spend a few hours, but eventually, the board
would be gone, and with it, the scratches.  :^) In my view, stepwise
refinement in sanding is a timesaver, not a requirement.  BTW, it you find
that there are deeper scratches remaining, it simply means you probably
want to back up to a coarser grit.  Irritating, but there _is_ a simple
solution in hand.

--
Harry
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: guy@slustl.slu.edu (Guy Smith)
Subject: Re: another plea for mantle advice
Organization: Saint Louis University  Saint Louis, MO
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 17:44:12 GMT

In article <cf_8vvf0Bwxd9=tsp8@transarc.com> Ken_Ziolkowski@transarc.com writes:
>
>  My wife and I just bought an older (35 years) home
>and we have a very nice fireplace in the living room
>but it has no mantlepiece.
Unless you are determined to build one, try an architectural salvage
place. There are a number of places in St. Louis that salvage
such things as fireplace surrounds, from buildings that are being
destroyed or "modernized" (remuddled). They are often quite elaborate and
beautiful and of very high quality. Around here, most are turn of the century,
which might not fit your decor. They usually come stripped and need to be
finished. I suspect that Pittsburgh has similar shops.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking