HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: njl@drutx.ATT.COM (LaRocheNJ)
Newsgroups: rec.pets
Subject: Re: Brushing a shedding bun
Summary: WHY are buns shedding now?  Two possibilities.
Date: 18 Dec 92 20:11:04 GMT
Organization: AT&T, Denver, CO

In article <1992Dec17.111918.8910@news.cs.indiana.edu>, alyoung@kiwi.ucs.indiana.edu (Amy Young Leith) writes:
> 
> WHY is he shedding now?  The hair to me, in the brush, looks to be all
> one color, and he's a white and multicolored bun. 

Most of my 40 bunnies (most of these are foster rabbits) have been
shedding fairly heavily.  Since adult bunnies typically shed once a year,
I've been somewhat puzzled.  So far, I've come up with two possibile
explanations.

1. Many bunnies start shedding in the spring and continue shedding all
   summer.  Might this be the final stage of this extended shedding?

   Frankly, I don't think that theory fits the data well enough to
   be a strong runner.

2. The growth/loss of hair on animals is caused by the changes in the
   amount of light that enters the eye.  (It fascinates me that just
   as we hit the peak of cold weather, the days start growing longer,
   triggering the mechanism that will cause the buns to lose their hair 
   just about the time that warm weather makes it desirable, and of
   course, vice versa in the summer.)

   Perhaps during the summer, our indoor bunnies experience a lessening
   of the length of the day, but aren't yet being exposed to indoor
   lighting, so they react by growing hair.  Then, as the days grow
   shorter, we turn on the indoor lights, lengthening the hours per
   day that they're exposed to light, and they respond by losing some
   of their coat a few months later.

   Another possibility is the difference in the spectrum of light
   experienced in natural light and artificial light.

Anyone else have any theories?  Is there anyone in biology or other
disciplines that could shed some more light (pun unintentional) on this
question?

In any case, as long as your bun appears generally healthy, and has no
symptoms of broken hair, patchy coat, sore or itchy places, etc., 
don't worry about the shedding.  It doesn't seem to cause any problems.

As for why the hair in the brush looks like one color, you're probably
getting the undercoat which is often white under all the other colors
of a multi-colored rabbit.

Nancy LaRoche (HRS)
att!drutx!njl
Newsgroups: rec.pets
From: b645zau@utarlg.uta.edu (Eric "The Other Guy" Culpepper)
Subject: Re: Iguana Questions
Summary:  reptiles
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Keywords:  see summary..
Organization: The University of Texas at Arlington
Distribution: rec.pets
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 07:00:00 GMT

In article <WINSAUER.92Dec17083134@saffron9.rtsg.mot.com>, winsauer@rtsg.mot.com (Ronald Winsauer) writes...
> 
>Well I just received an Iguana for X-mas from my wife and I was wondering
>how many other people out their in net land had Iguanas (or even other
>reptiles) as pets?  Do any of you owners have any suggestions/warnings/funny
>stories about them?  How do they handle other animals like cats, and
>ferrets?  A question to the net in general what is the strangest pet
>that you have heard of ( my parents neighbors have a pair of emus)?
> 
>Ron Winsauer
>Owned by  Liana Winsauer the wife Kamiria, Frigot, Mesu the cats, 
>Judy, Akira, Totoro, Neko the ferrets, and the newest member of the
>family DOLOOP: the Iguana

Iguanas make fine display pets, I have had several and sold some down to just
one (large male named Monty {Python}) and suggest them for serious hobbists.
Iguanas require light as most pets and a heat rock for heat and aid in 
digestion. For light, try a flourescent bulb and Hagen makes a brand called
Sun-Glo which is "supposed" to "accurately" reproduce the sun's light.

The heat rock should be placed near the "den" so that the iguana can have a 
place to "hide" when it tires of basking on the rock and under the light.

I've tried feeding different foods to Monty, he prefers brocoli(sp?), Tender
Vittles, chicken (baked), and canned dog food on occasion. Try supplimenting
with some fruits like peaches, pears, etc. Use a vitamin suppliment like
Reptisol I think Tetrafin makes it.

Another great reptile and fairly easy to keep healthy are Anoles and House
Geckos (not the big Tokays), these little guys are fun to watch and will
provide lots of enjoyment.

As far as handling your Iguana, it varies, most of mine DIDN'T want to be
held and NEVER grab your iguana by the tail, it will drop it off as a diffence.
Monty, on the other hand will occassionally tollerate being held, but I think
its more from the heat of my hand, then any actual enjoyment of being held.
If you do have one that "likes" contact, gently rub it on its head behind the
ridges of its eyes, this will calm the little guy(girl) down and they usally
respond by closing one or both eyes.

If you need any other hints or whatever just drop a line..

   /-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/
  /-/  Eric Culpepper         /-/-/-/ "Well if you want a friend, feed    /-/
 /-/  b645zau@utarlg.uta.edu /-/-/-/   any animal!" -Jane's Addiction    /-/
/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/
Newsgroups: rec.pets
From: graziano@ravel.udel.edu (Lisa Marie Graziano)
Subject: littertraining ferrets
Summary:  Help!
Organization: University of Delaware
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 19:54:26 GMT


OK, I think I've figured out how to post stuff.
I need some advice- how do you stop a ferret from going to the bathroom
anywhere he wants to?  As in any and all corners?  He knows what he's
supposed to do and carefully uses his box when I'm there.  My female
(Hava) has never once in 5 years gone on the floor.  but I'm afraid she
may start, since Cheerio does it all the time.  
	Also- does anyone else have a ferret who reacts aggressively to
certain noises, like alarm clocks?  I had to buy 3 new clocks before I
found one with an alarm that didn't set him off.  If he was asleep, he
would climb up onto the bed (fast asleep with his eyes closed) and attack
me; he bites pretty hard.  Once I woke him up he was his usual cuddly self
and obviously didn't know what he'd done.  Like a little kid sleepwalking.
Any advice on this?
Lisa, Hava, and Cheerio
From: njl@drutx.ATT.COM (LaRocheNJ)
Newsgroups: rec.pets
Subject: Re: How to stop a dog from eating its own stool?
Summary: Its normal, has nothing to do with hunger or nutrition.  "Forbid" helps.
Date: 17 Dec 92 19:24:45 GMT
Organization: AT&T, Denver, CO

In article <1992Dec15.190426.25097@cs.ucla.edu>, pinghann@maui.cs.ucla.edu (Ping Hann Wang) writes:
> ...it began to eat its own stool a couple weeks ago.
> ...Is this kind of behavior normal among one year old dogs?
> ...Is this just a transition period behavior, i.e., from adolescence to
> ...adulthood? Is there any effective way to stop dogs from eating stool?

Many dogs eat their own stools, seeming to consider them tasty snacks.  It's nothing
to worry about other than the possibility of its ingesting worm eggs picked up from
the ground.  And it won't stop as age changes.

There is a product called "Forbid" that causes the stools to be unpleasant to the
dog.  It's a powder that you sprinkle on the dog's food for a couple of days.  You
may be able to find it in a pet store or get them to order it for you.  But you
might want to check with a vet before using it to be sure its safe.

Nancy LaRoche
att!drutx!njl
Newsgroups: rec.pets
From: graziano@ravel.udel.edu (Lisa Marie Graziano)
Subject: getting a ferret
Organization: University of Delaware
	This is a reply to the potential ferret-owner from Ontario (sorry
	As for keeping one in your room:  I would strongly reccomend that
	Sorry this is so long... Ferrets are very clean and neat, and they
	Good luck!
                                                Lisa, Hava, and Cheerio
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 18:30:44 GMT
From: idg39@jester.usask.ca (Gowsell)
Newsgroups: rec.pets
Subject: Fussy Ferrets and food
Date: 12 Dec 1992 02:25:37 GMT
Organization: University of Saskatchewan
NNTP-Posting-Host: jester.usask.ca
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL7]


I have read several comments on what different ferrets will and won't 
eat.  Cocoa would only eat Purina Cat Chow... although she would eat
other *dry* cat food if I bought it.... but canned food?   Never.

I once let food sit for three days (until I could afford to buy more)
and I don't think she even touched it!!! Of course, she won, and I
bought the dry stuff.  I think it's better anyway.

As to peculiar foods, I am curious to know what your ferrets go crazy 
over.   I read one post about a ferret that loves red licorice... Cocoa
went nuts over Cherry Nibs.

We would be on a road trip, me driving, her sleeping, and the minute I
opened a bag of Nibs, she would be wide awake and climbing all over me!!
:)... I think that was her favourite food, although my mother says Cocoa
also liked English Cucumbers (I think she ate regular cucumbers too).  

She also liked grapefruit sections and orange sections... and apples.

So, what do your critters like?


Inez

Newsgroups: rec.pets
From: "Amy Young Leith" <alyoung@kiwi.ucs.indiana.edu>
Subject: Re: House Rabbit Handbook.
Organization: Indiana University, Bloomington
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1992 19:02:47 -0500

In article <22936@drutx.ATT.COM> njl@drutx.ATT.COM (LaRocheNJ) writes:
>Yes, it is.  I'm delighted that your local bookstore is carrying it!
>
>Did you get the revised edition, published in 1991?  Although the first 
>edition was good, the revised edition is even better.
>
>Nancy LaRoche (HRS)
>att!drutx!njl


Yes, it's the updated one.  I was really glad to find it, for every
other book I've seen on rabbits, even if they are supposedly for pet
owners, take a more "livestock" bend on their care. 

And some of the pictures are just so adorable!  =)

amy
-- 
alyoung@kiwi.ucs.indiana.edu for personal mail
			    All business mail to alyoung@silver.ucs.indiana.edu
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
**Dislcaimer:I only speak for myself.  Anyone who thinks differently is a fool.
			(This means NOT my employer!!)
From: co940@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Nicholas E. Damato)
Newsgroups: rec.pets
Subject: Cats and Valerian root?!!
Date: 19 Dec 1992 03:27:34 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


This girl who lives in my apt. building owns a cat.
i am a natural food buff,sorta, 
i recently gave her some valerian root to brew in a tea
to help relax after studying for finals, (good brain herb)
 
guess what? Her cat LOVES Valerian root, more than even
catnip. it paces around outside of the cupboard where she
keeps it.
It eats the root and then goes loco for a while, it seems
to hallucinate and chase and scratch things that aren't
there, than it just sort of rolls around and stares into
the air for a while (man is this cat stoned or what?)
 
Now HER girlfriend gave some Valerian root to her cat and
had similar results.
 
Is this a fluke? is valerian root somekind of cat dope 
like catnip?
 
Is it bad for the cat? should she stop giving it to the 
cat? if not, how much is too much?
 
I'm curious and she wants to know, 
any help would be appreciated.
 
ned.
From: tenny@euclid.uucp (Nathan Tenny)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Force-feeding info wanted
Date: 13 Dec 92 04:01:07 GMT
Article-I.D.: pith.1geci3INNfbp
Organization: Department of Mathematics, University of Oregon
NNTP-Posting-Host: euclid.uoregon.edu


There's always the partial variant of force-feeding, where you put a severed
segment of tail, or a pinky leg, in the snake's mouth and try to get it to
swallow.  It's a way to get something into the snake without resorting to
force-feeding whole pinkies.

Force-feeding is a pretty desperate move, though, and I agree with those who
have suggested you wait a few more weeks.

I assume you've left the snake in a dark, confined place with a pinky for a
few hours, right?  One of my corns sometimes refuses to eat unless it's
dark...

	NT
From: willeyr@helium.gas.uug.arizona.edu (Rebecca E Willey )
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: About escapes...
Date: 17 Dec 92 23:30:28 GMT
Organization: University of Arizona, Tucson

I don't know if this helps, but once my lizard was lounging on the dashboard in the sun, and I got out for a second, and when I cqame back, she was gone.

I thought she'd somehow gotten out of the car when I opened the door, and
we searched the yard for an hour or so, and finally I gave up.  Then, depressed
at Roy Rogers, I heard noises from inside my dash!  It was Cleo!  I was
ecstatic, but I couldn't find her for the life of me... she was in there
somewhere.  So I left her in there overnight with misgivings, since once it got
cold she stopped moving, and I couldn't look well in the dark.  The next
morning, I heard her scrabbling in the VENTS... so I got behind my stereo,
grabbed the part where all the dash vents come together, and popped
it from the connection.  I shook it briskly, and slooop!  Out she popped,
dusty but okay.

So I guess my advice is look in the ventilation system. :)

And don't give up!

Becca
From: aad@siemens.com. (Anthony Datri)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Corn Cob, Showers and Iggs, what's new with my Ig : )
Keywords: cedar bad, corn and walnut good, showers swimming iggys
Date: 16 Dec 92 19:47:12 GMT
Organization: Siemens Corp. Res., Inc.

>I was forced to use Corn cob bedding in my iguana's tank because I could not
>find walnut shell bedding anywhere, over the summer when I was out of town.

You were in a town that didn't have newspapers?
--

======================================================================8--<
From: ffn2@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (FREDRICK F NOECKER)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: FREE HERP NEWSLETTER
Date: 18 Dec 92 20:21:08 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

Hi,
  My name is Rick Noecker and a associate of mine, Chris Zimmer, publishes
  a herptology newsletter called the _Rep Amp_.  The _Rep Amp_ focuses on
  animals such as snakes, reptiles, amphibians, turtles and tortoises.  These
  articles that we write focus on how to properly choose, feed, care for and
  breed the already mentioned herps.

  Chris has been working with reptiles for over 10 years at his fathers pet
  store.  In this time he has dealt with many different species of heps and
  has learned how to deal with many herp problems firsthand.  I have worked
  for Chris for over 2 1/2 years now and have done quite a bit of research on
  the herps that I have dealt with.

  The articles that are written in the _Rep Amp_ are based on research and
  personal experience on the particular herp.  Anybody is welcome to write for
  the _Rep Amp_ that has moderate experience and that is willing to do good
  research using up to date references.  So if you are interested in writing
  please let my know by responding over the server.

  THE _REP AMP_ IS ABSOLUTELY FREE AND NON PROPHIT.  We make no prophits from
  the publication of the _Rep Amp_ and it is free to anybody that is
  interested in subscribing to it.

  If you wish to subscribe to the _Rep Amp_ please give me your postal
  address.  I am sorry but the _Rep Amp_ is not yet available on e-mail yet so
  please if you are interested give me your postal address.  No where is to
  far for us to mail it to you and we do so at no cost to you.

  If you have already subscribed to the _Rep Amp_ please don't give me your
  name and address again.  If you enjoy the _Rep Amp_ please tell your freinds
  and give me there names and addresses also.  Too much is never enough.

  Thank You,
    Rick Noecker
    215-758-0304

    P.S.  Your comments and questions are appreciated.
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: gizzi@rtsg.mot.com (James A. Gizzi)
Subject: Re: Smelly hot rock -- suggestions?
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 16:56:37 GMT

claude@cse.ucsc.edu (Claude Noshpitz) writes:

>Hello Net!  I'm wondering if anyone has had luck removing that special
>aroma of Iguana pee from a hotrock.  It has a kind of porous, maybe 
>claylike surface, and has so far resisted my fairly ardent cleaning
>attempts.  Any suggestions are appreciated (by the other members of
>the household as well as Waldo and Wanda)!
>Thanks...

would argue this point).  I cannot remember the brand name but it should be easyto find.


>claude


>-- 
>...................... nothin left to do but :-) :-) :-) ...................
>   Claude Noshpitz                 claude@cse.ucsc.edu
>     5420 Coast Road                 University of California, AS225
>     Santa Cruz, CA 95060 USA        Santa Cruz, CA 95064 USA   
-- 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jim Gizzi             "Western Society needs to prioritize life-support
sqa.rtsg.mot.com       systems and to question its commitment to Materialism"
                                Audrey Shenandoah - Onandaga "Elder"
From: seedman@IASTATE.EDU (Varanus Komodensis)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Heating strip
Date: 14 Dec 92 21:27:08 GMT
Reply-To: seedman@IASTATE.EDU (Varanus Komodensis)
Distribution: na
Organization: Iowa State University

In article <1992Dec11.110935.3053@equalizer.cray.com>, waynel@cray.com (Wayne
Lichte) writes:
> Recently here, in San Diego, I have started seeing more and more
> herp oriented shops carrying something called 'heat tape' or 'heat
> strip'.  It is a reliable, cheap way to heat those cold blooded herps.
> Basically, this 'tape' consists of a network of wiring that is laminated
> between sheets of plastic.  This, in turn is hooked to a dimmer switch,
> and then attached to the underside of the cage.  Using a digital thermometer,
> it is easy to maintain an adequate temperature for practically any herps'
> needs.  I have this tape hooked up for a ~10' burmese, and my 3 uromastyx
> as well.  One really nice thing is that temperature becomes really
> controllable, unlike [dare I say it?] hot rocks or heat lamps.

	The product Wayne is talking about, as far a I can tell, is sold 
by many names.  Bob Clark sells it as "Herp Heat", and recommends using it
with his "micro-climate" thermostats.  I have one friend who uses it, and 
he has experience no problems.  I posted this to make sure no one confuses
Wayne's "heat tape" with the previously, and still somewhere available 
"Heat Tape" used by plumbers to keep pipes from freezing and herp onwers to 
keep their animals warm.
					

						-=- seedman@iastate.edu
 
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: kamalm@sco.COM (Kamal A. Mostafa)
Subject: Re: My iguana hates me already :(
Organization: The Santa Cruz Operation, Inc.
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 19:43:17 GMT


lxfogel@srv.PacBell.COM (Lee Fogel) writes:
 | >
 | >[...] should I attempt to continue picking him up every so often
 | >under the assumption that he will get used to it eventually? At this point,
 | >I'm about ready to take him back to the store.
 | 

Give it time...  I've known of iguanas who were *very* mean at first,
but "mellowed out" after a month or two of regular attention, even after
being kept without much attention for a year or more!  There's no reason
to think that your ig will remain mean, or grow into a mean animal.


 | walter@optimla.aimla.com (Walter Hunt) writes:
 | Continue picking him up.  You might want to try lowering his temperature a
 | bit first though, like to 70 degrees.  He'll most likely be a little less
 | aggressive.  Also try late evenings after his usual bedtime.  Good luck.
 | 

I agree... continue to work with him.  But I don't feel too comfortable
with the "freeze him into submission" strategy.  That probably will make
your iguana less aggressive, but it will also make him *way* more sluggish
in general, and may throw off his digestion/appetite (NOT good).  I'd
say a better strategy would be to try taking him out when he is naturally
cold (early morning, before the cage-lights go on)...  Not specifically
because he'll be less aggressive (though he will), but because he'll want
the heat from your body, and will be much more inclined to sit on you for
awhile.

-k
From: willeyr@helium.gas.uug.arizona.edu (Rebecca E Willey )
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: more on iggy's
Date: 16 Dec 92 05:58:48 GMT
Organization: University of Arizona, Tucson

Most mellow?  Hardly. ;)  But they aren't too bad compared to meat eaters.
My vote for most mellow - Chuckwallas.  Or maybe chameleons. slowwww

BEc
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: kamalm@sco.COM (Kamal A. Mostafa)
Subject: Re: HELP: Iguana problem!
Organization: The Santa Cruz Operation, Inc.
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 19:11:18 GMT


jwg0@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (JOHN WALTER GEWARTOWSKI) writes:
 | 
 | the larger started to sniff (tongue?) around>after the smaller and then
 | tried to take a bite out of him!
 | 
 | Has anyone else noticed this type of behavior?  For now I've seperated
 | them, but I'm considering taking the smaller one back to the store.
 | 


I noticed very similar behavior after we got two new baby iguanas.

We've had one iguana for over a year, and he never showed any sort
of meanness or territoriality whatsoever *until* we brought the two
babies home!  They show lots of interest in him, and him in them,
but really the only time they have acted like they wanted to fight
is when they try to climb into his cage...  He absolutely freaks
out, attacking the glass in an effort to get to them hanging on
the outside rim.

When he's out (the big one), he sometimes saunters over to their cage
and hangs out near it, but has never tried to attack them when they're
inside...  It really seems like he'll staunchly defend his own home,
but that's he's gotten used to other iguanas being around in general.
They're still much smaller than him, so we're going to wait a while
more before letting them all play together.

As for the two babies...  For the first few weeks the "male" would
always be biting/licking at the "female" (we're not sure about the
sexes, but their behavior leaves little doubt).  He would head-bob
her all the time and was taking such vicious bites at her tail and
legs that we considered seperating them.  I'm glad we didn't, as
the behavior seems to have tapered off quite a bit in the last couple
of weeks.  A few things happened at once, so I don't really know
which was the deciding factor, but what changed was:  (1) they moved
to a new and much larger cage, (2) they have gotten more used to our
presence and are no longer alarmed when we walk by, and (3) they have
had more time to get used to each other and to set up their dominance
heirarchy.  Anyway, I've only seen him bite her once in the past few
weeks, so I think the aggression has passed.


My advice would be to give it some time before taking your new iguana
back to the store...  They might just need a bit of time to get used
to each other.


-k
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp