HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: hall@vice.ICO.TEK.COM (Hal F Lillywhite)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: 2-way radios
Date: 11 Dec 92 23:45:57 GMT
Organization: Tektronix Inc., Beaverton, Or.

In article <1992Dec11.222852.6610@news.mentorg.com> jane_merrow@mentorg.com writes:

>After a couple of situations where noise of wind or water
>and the outcroppings along a route have made communication 
>between climber and belayer practically impossible, I noticed 
>a headset 2-way radio in an REI catalog and thought, "Well,
>maybe...". 

>Has anyone tried such a technological solution?  (It does seem
>somewhat excessive, doesn't it?)  Does anyone have any non-
>technological solutions to letting someone know when to up-rope,
>let out slack, watch me, etc. when you can't see or hear them?

We use something like this (don't know if it's identical) in high
angle rescue.  It helps but is no panecea.  One big problem is that
the VOX (voice activated transmit) can also be activated by wind or
the other noises you mention.  This makes an open mike and the
entire system is useless.  Of course you can go to PTT (push to
talk) but then you have to find a free hand before you can talk.  We
normally have the litter attendent on VOX (unless wind etc opens the
mike) and anybody else on PTT.  In climbing it would be nice to have
both climber and belayer on VOX but remember, anything you say (even
a cough) gets transmitted directly to your buddy's ear (often quite
loudly).  Of course VOX probably would not work in windy or noisy 
environments so you would be back to PTT.

I think it would work well in those cases where climber and belayer
are simply separated by an outcropping etc.  If you like such
gadgets and have the money, go ahead and try it.

Non-technological solutions would include things like pre-arranged
whistle blasts.  This can work fairly well but it may be wise to
repeat each signal since you are talking about conditions where
communication is impaired.
From: mturner@henson.cc.wwu.edu (Mark Turner)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: Where to live if you love to climb
Date: 15 Dec 92 21:56:08 GMT
Article-I.D.: henson.1992Dec15.215608.17355
Organization: Western Washington University

Bellingham, Washington.

Convenient to the North Cascades for Alpine climbing.  Two hours to
Squamish, BC for nice granite.  Three hours to Icicle Canyon, Leavenworth,
Washington for more nice granite and less rain.  Short stuff on sandstone
just a few miles out of town.

Much better climbing than my previous home in Nebraska. :)

-- Mark Turner
mturner@henson.cc.wwu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: blanchad@rintintin.Colorado.EDU (BLANCHARD DAVID OWEN)
Subject: Re: Devils Tower
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 18:58:37 GMT

In article <DOUGG.92Dec16093353@kbsw3.kentek.com> dougg@kentek.com (Doug Gerecht 806 1031) writes:
>> Can anyone tell me about personal experiences climbing at Devil's
>> Tower.  I would like to take a trip out there next summer and climb
>> the 5.6 route.  It will be my first multi-pitch climb.  I heard that
>> there are fixed pitons on the route, is this true?  Thanks, Paul
>
>I've never climbed the Durance (sp?) route.  Many of the routes on the
>tower have bolts at belay stances since there really are FEW ledges.
>When I was there last July I talked to a party on the summit that had
>just finished Durance.  They said they got in line at about 5 or
>5:30am and waited about 3 hours before they could start climbing.
>
>In other words, if you can lead a 5.7 or greater choose one of those
>routes as they are MUCH less crowded.  Also, don't forget that pretty
>much all the routes down require double rope rappels.  We had to help
>another party off that "kinda forgot" about that and only had 1 rope.
>

Or go after Labor Day.  The crowds are gone and the weather can be good.
-- 
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| David O. Blanchard	Boulder, Colorado	dob@nssl.erl.gov           |
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
From: klawton1@cc.swarthmore.edu (KathleenLawton)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: Need Advice (on BD Bod Harness)
Date: 19 Dec 92 22:03:34 GMT
Organization: Swarthmore College

In article <BzF642.B32@world.std.com>, gnray@world.std.com (Garry N Ray)
writes:
> 
> newbeb@bray1b.its.rpi.edu (Brian Samuel Newberry) writes:
> 
> > I am looking into climbing harnesses and would like some advice. I have seen a
> >Black Diamond Bod in a local store for $50, and have been seriously considering
> >buying it. Any comments as to its performance, comfortability, safety, ect.?
> >E-mail me if you have any comments. Thanks!

I really liked the BD bod--have been climbing with mine for 4 years now.
For a beginning climber, it's good for the price. email me if you have any
other thoughts--I'm a big fan of this harness.
Kathleen Lawton
klawton1@cc.swarthmore.edu
From: Ralph.C.Lindenfeld@dartmouth.edu (Ralph C. Lindenfeld)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: WINTER IN THE WHITE MTNS.
Date: 17 Dec 92 19:32:42 GMT
 <1go895INNm12@seven-up.East.Sun.COM>
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH
X-Posted-From: InterNews1.0b3@newshost.dartmouth.edu

In article <1go895INNm12@seven-up.East.Sun.COM>
cbrown@islesboro.East.Sun.COM (Chris Brown - SunSelect Operations)
writes:

> Also, a one day ascent of Central Gully on Mt Washington is fun (one pitch grade 1 ice). Stay at Harvard Cabin in Huntington Ravine.


I just looked up 'central gully' in my White Mountain Guide and topo
and can't find it. Perhaps you're referring to the 'great gulf'? I'd be
interested in this spot you're referring to. Maybe you can find the
trail name this pitch is on?

Ralph Lindenfeld
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: allen%asylum.cs.utah.edu@cs.utah.edu (Allen Sanderson)
Subject: Re: helmets
Date: 15 Dec 92 11:02:04 MST
Organization: University of Utah CS Dept

 davin@hardy.u.washington.edu (David Veale) writes:

>Climbing helmets are designed to protect for an impact from above (ie
>falling rock), but not from the side.
>Most climbing helmets are tested and certified by the UIAA.

This is pretty much correct, but the UIAA specifies that the helmet be
tested from above and front (30 degrees above the horizontal).  This
is not strictly from the side but close. I doubt that someone would
get struck directly from the side so this makes sense.  I assume that
the frontal impact test would also have to met along the circumference
of the helmet.

Cheers,

Allen R. Sanderson

Salt Lake City, Oootah
From: cline+@cs.cmu.edu (Kenneth Cline)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: helmets
Date: 16 Dec 92 23:52:44 GMT
Organization: School of Computer Science, Carnegie Mellon

In article <BzBBFJ.9z7@optimla.aimla.com> jc@optimla.aimla.com (John VanHoozer) writes:
>I think that you'll find that most bicycle helmets are deficient in
>one major area.  I seem to recall reading that the majority of head
>traumas are to the _back_ of the skull and not the top.
> [backward, flipping fall described] ...

All of my cycling helmets provide more coverage for the back of mu
head than for the front.  They should work well in they type of fall
you describe.

>I honestly think that (1) if you wear a helmet for climbing,  get a climbing
>helmet (2) a bicycle helmet is only a little better than nothing (3) back
>country climbing on routes where rock fall is a factor _require_ a helmet
>and (4) every one should learn how to fall - take a intro to judo or other
>martial art!  I've seen too many people get minor injuries because they 
>couldn't tuck or recover properly.

These points are all overstated (except for (1) which is merely an
opinion).  (2) It is clear that cycling helmets greatly reduce head
injuries.  One can imagine circumstances where a mountaineering helmet
may be preferable, but this does not detract from the protection
offered by (much, much, much more comfortable) cycling helmets.  (3)
Back country routes where rock fall is a factor are high risk
endeavors, where a helmet is no guarantee of security.  In some cases
(say a hot day) a helmet could slow a climber and increase the risk
(speed is safety)!  (4) Uh, huh...  Tucking and recovering have
limited use landing on a talus field or in many other climbing falls.
Some serious climbing falls are over before the climber has time to
react.

Ken
From: degennar@bmsrs.usc.edu (Ray)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Climbing around JFK Space Center in Florida
Date: 18 Dec 1992 11:34:35 -0800
Organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: bmsrs.usc.edu

Is there any climbing near JFK Space Center in Florida?

Oh, I grew up in a traveling family, so a 4 to 5 hour drive in near to me.
In fact, I've done day trips to JTree from LA.  I know, I'm crazy.



-- 

Ray (DJ) DeGennaro II
degennar@bmsrs.usc.edu
From: maier@iir.wu-wien.ac.at (Andreas Wildberger)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Hueco Tanks or Organ Mountains in April 93 ?!
Date: 18 Dec 1992 12:30:42 GMT
Organization: University of Economics and Business Administration, Vienna, Austria
NNTP-Posting-Host: iirlibray.wu-wien.ac.at

In spring Ill spend some time in Texas, and Id like to do some climbing 
during the first three weeks of April. Since Im Austrian and climbing in 
the US is really new for me, Id appreciate if I could get some addresses or 
phone numbers of people being around Hueco Tanks or the Organ Mountains who 
could show me around a little bit (perhaps do some climbing with me [max. V- 
on the uiaa-scale]), or just give me a few hints. I already have some 
general information about these climbing areas, but Id be glad about any 
details.

Thank you very much for answers,

Andy

P.S. Could you please give me a brief overview about the prices of basic 
climbing equipment in the US - I hope it will also be worth buying stuff 
there...  Thanks again.
From: cbrown@islesboro.East.Sun.COM (Chris Brown - SunSelect Operations)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: WINTER IN THE WHITE MTNS.
Date: 18 Dec 1992 15:44:03 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems Inc. - BDC
Distribution: world
Reply-To: cbrown@islesboro.East.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: islesboro.east.sun.com

Central Gully does not, as far as I know, appear on any trail description. It is considered a technical climb and thus not in the realm of the hill walker.

To locate it, stand in the Pinkham parking lot near Rt 16 and look up into Huntington Ravine (the ravine on the right). You will see an obvious vertical gully slightly left-of-center in the ravine headwall. This gully cuts from top to botton and is bordered on the immediate left by a large rock buttress. This is Central Gully.

The lower approach into the gully ascends the fan (45-60 degree snow). At the gully's narrowest point an ice buldge usually appears as a patch of blue (it can vary from 50 to 150 feet in length). Above the ice the gully eases off but remains quite narrow (75 feet?). The top of the gully exits into the Apline Garden and is marked by a large stone carin. The nearest trail is the summer-only Huntington Ravine trail which I believe exits at the same point.

You can use the high-resolution Washburn topo of the region to locate Central Gully.

To get there - Approach up the Tuck road and turn right at the junction with the Huntington road (follow cat tracks). Ascend floor of ravine to fan and you can't miss the entry to the gully. Solo or belay the grade one ice and you are home free. Easiest descent is across Alpine Garden and down via Lion's Head winter trail.

Hope this helps.
From: Ralph.C.Lindenfeld@dartmouth.edu (Ralph C. Lindenfeld)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: question re: Death of Pierre Beghin
Date: 18 Dec 92 16:00:26 GMT
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH
X-Posted-From: InterNews1.0b3@newshost.dartmouth.edu

I read the article that a fellow netter thoughtfully mailed me and I'm
a bit confused as to what went on during that fateful abseil. Now, the
article says that Beghin jammed a friend and clipped into it, then
abseiled, the friend slipped and he fell. Was Jean-Chri anchoring? Was
Beghin attempting to use this friend as a safe anchor?

Ralph Lindenfeld
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: richk@tera.com (Richard Korry)
Subject: Re: Critters
Organization: Tera Computer Company, Seattle, WA
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1992 19:48:43 GMT

I've had a few run-ins with critters. On Snow Patch Spire I was eye to eye
with a snaffle-hound (smallish rodent with *very* long whiskers) in an off-
width. That was a bit unnerving as first I was surprised, then fascinated then
worried about its' culinary desires (oooh ouch, let go!)
I've had rodents munch my racking sling and regular slings for the
salt (luckily I wasn't wearing them at the time :-) )
Then there's always the fun encounters with wasps in the Gunks...
	richard

Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: marlatt@spot.Colorado.EDU (Stuart W. Marlatt)
Subject: Re: helmets
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 20:28:51 GMT

In article <1992Dec14.175704.18193@news.mentorg.com> steve_shostek@mentorg.com writes:
>In article <168BD35E.60330903@wsuvm1.csc.wsu.edu>, 60330903@wsuvm1.csc.wsu.edu writes:
>|> hey,
>|>  
>|> I saw a letter in a "rock and ice" a while back where a guy asked if biking
>|> helmets would work for climbing.  Probably because of advertising or
[...]
>I know of at least 2 differences between climbing helmets and bicycle 
>helmets:
>- Most bike helmets use a compressable material to absorb impact. Once this
>   material has compressed, it will do little to absorb the next impact. For
>   this reason, this type of helmet is often retired after one crash. 
>   Hopefully the biker doesn't have to retire, too.
>- A lot of bike helmets have ventilation slots that could permit entry of
>   small stones.
>
>I want my helmet to protect me from multiple impacts if I am (god forbid)
>in such a situation, and I want protection from small stones. I figure if
>anything bigger than a fist comes down it will probably break my neck
>anyway, if not my helmet. 

The effect of slots is greater than just allowing small stones to
get through. They may also catch, to some degree, a larger
object striking a glancing blow, thus transfering more force to
the wearer than would a similar, smooth helmet. That was the
argument which originally led me to get a Joe Brown vs. a MSR.
Of course, the JB is awfully hot, so I generally don't wear it...


------------------------------------------------------------------------------
But our lot crawls between dry ribs                                       
To keep out metaphysics warm.                                             
  --T.S. Eliot, Whispers of Immortality                                   
..............................................................................
s.w. marlatt, <><  &  *(:-)               Prov. 25.2
University of Colorado:                   marlatt@spot.Colorado.edu  492-3939
National Center for Atmospheric Research: marlatt@neit.cgd.ucar.edu  497-1669
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: dmanke@sanjuan (Dennis Manke)
Subject: Re: travel insurance
Organization: University of Victoria, Victoria B.C. CANADA
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 92 08:21:44 GMT

In article <mvanwouw.724464111@sfu.ca> mvanwouw@fraser.sfu.ca (Mark Van Wouw) writes:
>
>Do any Canadians know of good (ie. cheap that covers climbing) insurance
>for climbing in the US?  I'm in the Vancouver area.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Mark van Wouw   Simon Fraser University
>mvanwouw@sfu.ca
>

All medical insurance policies in NA exclude mountaineering, climbing, and any
other sports that are considered "dangerous".
 
 
Dennis,  dmanke@sanjuan.uvic.ca
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: gnray@world.std.com (Garry N Ray)
Subject: Re: Abseiling
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 19:48:26 GMT

Richard.Drapeau@tdkt.kksys.com (Richard Drapeau) writes:

>Would someone post a step-by-step commentary on abseiling:  preferred belay 
>devices, rope control, and pitfalls.

Devices: Sticht plate, figure 8, carabiner brake
Control: One guide hand, one brake hand
Pitfalls: Death

Seriously, a copy Mountaineering: Freedom Of The Hills would answer all of
your questions.
From: pggreen@juliet.caltech.edu (Green, Peter G.)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: Compact Short Wave Radio Recommendations Requested
Date: 11 Dec 1992 09:34 PST
Organization: California Institute of Technology
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: juliet.caltech.edu
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    

In article <1992Dec10.170226.9187@csc.ti.com>, czichon@psyche.csc.ti.com (Cary Czichon) writes...
>In one of the climbing magazines, a compact (traveller's) short wave radio
>was suggested as essential equipment on long climbing trips (expeditions) in
>remote areas.  They help alleviate evening boredom.  Picking up BBC and Voice
>of America broadcasts shouldn't be difficult anywhere in the world.  Has
>anyone bought a compact SW radio for this purpose?  Do you have any brand/model
>recommendations?  I've been looking around.  The brands I've seen are Grundig,
>Sony, Casio, and Realistic.  I'd like to take one to the Andes with me on the
>26th.
> 
>Cary Czichon
>czichon@csc.ti.com
My brother brought a Sony along to the Karakoram last summer and
it was great.  (I was always wanting to borrow it.)  On the ear-
plug the batteries last a long time, less so if you use the
speaker.  We were deep ion the mountinas, with peaks 10 to 12,000'
above us and could get something in English (usually BBC) nearly
24hoursa a day. It broke when dropped off a crate onto rocks once,
needing TLC after that to get it working.

-Peter Green
pgg@chemsys.caltech.edu
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 16:28:13 EST
From: jim bowers <FQV@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Desperatly seeking a pair of Old style Dolomite slippers

size 39-40 - any condition.  These are the ones that are yellow and marone.
Will pay good bucks depending on condition.
  Jim Bowers c/o Petrogrips
  108 E. Cherry Lane
  State College PA, 16803        (814) 867-6780
From: rickh@ems.cdc.com (Richard Herwig)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Where is Nick Clinch?
Date: 16 Dec 92 20:54:15 GMT
Organization: Empros Systems International, a division of CDC

Anybody out there know how I can send a letter to Nicolas Clinch? 
He was the leader of the first assent of Hidden Peak in 1958 and the
author of the book _A Walk in the Sky_.  The book sez he lives in Palo
Alto Ca. and is associated with The American Alpine Club and The Mountaineers
in Seatle (at least that's what the book said in 1983). I would like
his address or the address of a club/organization that would forward
a letter.

Thanks

-- 
                Richard F. Herwig  -  email: rickh@ems.cdc.com 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 I take my desires for reality because I believe in the reality of my desires!
Xref: sparky rec.climbing:4961 rec.backcountry:9642
From: bowen@acsu.buffalo.edu (Devon E Bowen)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing,rec.backcountry
Subject: Tibet
Date: 14 Dec 92 21:35:28 GMT
Organization: State University of New York at Buffalo/Comp Sci

I have acquired a sudden interest in going to Tibet this Spring (around
April) and I was interested in talking to someone that has been through
the process. I've been told that one needs an "invitation" from a
travel agency to do this but my main interest is just going in to hike
and camp in the mountains for a month or so. Is there any way I can do
this? What do I have to go through? Any replies would be greatly
appreciated.

Devon
From: gustave@hougen.seas.ucla.edu (Gustave R. Stroes)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: RP's?
Date: 17 Dec 92 19:20:02 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: SEASnet, University of California, Los Angeles

I have read route descriptions (often for desert climbing) which
recomend bringing pro refered to as RP's.  As far as I can tell,
these are the very small brass stoppers that I have seen at REI.
I must admit that these devices do not look particularly strong.
Are they capable of arresting leader falls?  Or are they intended
for aid climbing?  If you do take a fall on one, is it designed
to deform, i.e. one "use" only?  Any advice would be appreciated.
Also, if one were to take along a few pitons to use in case of
emergency on backcountry bailouts, which type of pitons would be
the most usefull/versatile?  How many sizes?

Thanks in advance,  Gustave

 
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: anandk@rice.edu (anand kolatkar)
Subject: climbing walls in Phoenix/Tempe area?
Organization: Rice University
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 16:14:06 GMT


	I think the subject says it all.  I am visiting the Tempe
	area in Arizona and was wondering if there were any sport
	climbing walls in that area.  I would appreciate any info.
	Email if you can.

	Thanks in advance.
--
/////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
	Anand Kolatkar			Rice University
	anandk@rice.edu			Dept. Biochemistry/Cell Biology
	(713) 527-8101 (X3346)		PO Box 1892
	(713) 527-8750 (x3346)		Houston, Tx. 77251
/////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: ghill@dot.cs.colorado.edu (Gregory Hill)
Subject: Re: Critters
Organization: Universtiy of Coloardo, Boulder
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1992 19:52:32 GMT

This posting is about CRITTERS. 

Has anyone checked out the early morning (in the Summer) bats that reside
in Country Club crack (Boulder Canyon, Boulder, CO)? Last Summer I climbed
it a couple of times at first sunlight and about 1/3 of the way up there
is a 15 foot section full of squeaking bats. Occasionally they like to bask
in the sun on a key hold, turning a 5.8 move into maybe 5.9.