HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Organization: Stanford Linear Accelerator Center
Date: Wednesday, 27 Jan 1993 08:07:04 PST
From: <TOM@SLACVM.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: WD-40 To Clean Chains???

I bought one of these inexpensive chain cleaners, the automatic type that you
connect to your chain.  The way it works, is that you turn the crank counter-
clockwise and hold the chain-cleaner housing in place with the small amount of
solution, (Chain Brite) is what I use.  The brushes get inbetween the links
and scrubs away dirt and grit.  I make 10 revolutions, disassemble the unit,
wipe the chain with a cloth, reassemble and make 10 more revolutions counter
clockwise. I then disassemble and do a final wipe down on the chain with the
cloth.  Total time is about 10 to 15 min. I like to clean my chain at least
every two weeks.  Note:  The (Chain Brite Solution) also acts as a lube and
only a small amount is needed.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: alh@einoed.in-berlin.de (Adrian Le Hanne)
Subject: Re: Selle Italia Flite saddle
Organization: Einoed Unix & Netzwerke, Berlin (FRG)
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 12:46:41 GMT

nasdrock@grebyn.com (NASD - Rockville) writes:

>I missed the discussion also but my Flite had the leather wear away
>where it rubs agains the inside of the thigh and i've seen this on
>other peoples Flites also

I can second this. After riding in rain and mud i had eventually some
holes in the leather. This probably won't happen if you only use the 
saddle in good weather and with lycra shorts only :(

Adrian
-- 
Adrian S. Le Hanne        Einoed Unix & Netzwerke, Koepenicker Str.154, D-1000
alh@einoed.in-berlin.de   Berlin 36. Tel.: 030/611 31 26,  Fax.: 030/611 32 86
  "On a day such as this you should insist on more than the truth" -Pere Ubu
From: chandler@wc.novell.com (Mark Chandler)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Campy Levers Too Stiff?
Date: 22 Jan 93 22:15:12 GMT
Organization: Novell, Inc. - Walnut Creek

Does anyone find that Campy brake levers are a bit "stiff"?
I just installed some of their "cantilever" levers (Athena/Chorus
that pull more cable and lack Q/R-button) and find that they
just don't spring back all that well.  I realize that they lack
the ubiquitous return spring found on Shimano and Dia-Compe levers,
but it's pretty noticeable.  I've checked the cable/housing path
for kinks/excess, lightly lubed the housing, increased the spring
tension at the brake (987 cantilevers), but nothing seems to help.
Do they just need to brake in?


--
Mark Chandler              Novell, Inc.         510/975-4522
chandler@wc.novell.com     Walnut Creek, CA     AOL: Crosswords
===============================================================
   The opinions expressed above are mine, not my employer's.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Cannondale M700 or M800?
From: <JXA12@psuvm.psu.edu>
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1993 19:51:03 EST
Organization: Penn State University

Hello!
I'm planning to buy a Cannondale M700 or M800 MTB. They are both the same
price, have almost the same components, but there are some differences in
the frame geometry: M700 is "conservative" and M800 "beast of the east" is
more "radical". I don't have much more info about them.
Can anybody help me?
Thanks.                              Jaime.
From: todd@cleo.abt.com (Todd Nix)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Selle Italia Flite saddle
Date: 21 Jan 93 04:05:14 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Alternative Broadcast Technology

In <93020.102345TOM@SLACVM.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU> TOM@SLACVM.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU writes:
>Uncomfortable after 30+miles, don't buy white (dirty), mail order & save $$!

Not true. I've ridden on one for 80+ miles at a time, no problem.
I have less comfort problems with the Flite then I did with the
Vetta Gel that came on my bike. Mostly it's a function of the thin
nose.

You should be able to get a plain smooth black Flite for about $60
from Colorado Cyclist, Excel, Nashbar, Performance, O'neills, etc.

-- 
Todd Nix                                                           todd@abt.com
 Movement1981-1982Power,Corruption,andLiesLowLifeBrotherhoodSubstanceTechnique
From: frankh@sr.hp.com (Frank Hamlin)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: EMS Fork?
Date: 26 Jan 93 15:41:47 GMT
Organization: HP Sonoma County (SRSD/MWTD/MID)
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8.1]


> Yes, I do have a general comment.   I saw one of these forks break earlier
> this past year on a very smooth downhill.   Let me stress that the road was
> very smooth.   The thing shattered and in doing so destroyed its rider.   He
> had to be taken away in an ambulence.   Local frame builder, Peter Weigle, was
> there and said that he could not believe that happened.   He went on to say
> that if one of his bikes every injured a person like that, he would stop
> building.

Was this near Clearlake?  I think it was the Ukiah Century where a rider
had a stick pop up and into the front spokes on his Kestrel.  He immediately
went over the handlebars, and shattered his front forks.  It's not clear
that the fork failure contributed to his injurys.


--

Frank Hamlin, Santa Rosa Systems, Hewlett Packard      __@ __@  
1400 Fountaingrove Pkwy, Santa Rosa, Calif           _-\<,-\<, 
frankh@sr.hp.com   (707) 577-2084                   (*)/---/(*)
From: GE.DWS@forsythe.stanford.edu (Drew W. Saunders)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: The Future of the Bike
Date: 22 Jan 1993 14:11:44 -0800
Organization: Stanford University
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: morrow.stanford.edu

In article <1460067@hplred.HPL.HP.COM>,
jbrandt@hplred.HPL.HP.COM (Jobst Brandt) writes:
>Dave Rogers writes:
>
>> Some Harley-Davidson motorcycles have had a cogged Kevlar drive
>> belt.  Supposedly with much better reliability than chains and no
>> chain lube required.
>
>A Harley Davidson does not have nearly the torque of a bicycle rider
> [etc...]
>I don't see the belt coming to bicycling, at least not for high
>performance bicycles.

That's where I see the future of cycling, or rather where I'd like
to see the future of cycling, in non-high performance bicycles.
Many people who currently like to commute short distances by bike
either don't want to or don't know how to maintain their bicycles.
A belt drive would reduce maintenance needs for a low-torque
commuter bike quite nicely, especially if paired with 5-spd hub.
Put the brakes in the hubs and it stops nearly as well (or as
poorly) in the rain as in dry, with even less maintenance.  The
problem with many 3-spd and 5-spd commute bikes, current and old,
is that the frames are massively over-built lumps of lead.  A
lighter weight frame would work just as well for most commute needs,
which tend to put little stress on the frame, even with groceries in
the panniers.  Add these new, lightweight, solid tires from the UK,
and it'll be virtually maintenance free.

Drew
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: kiisaka@csi.uottawa.ca (Ken Iisaka (the mad pianist))
Subject: Re: Chorus F. Derailer Sticks..
Organization: Dept. of Computer Science, University of Ottawa
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 93 19:00:09 GMT

Do the good ol' maintenance...  soak it and lube it.
-- 
Ken Iisaka
kiisaka@csi.uottawa.ca                     <Space for rent>
AI Lab, University of Ottawa                       <Espace a louer>
H: +1 613 237 6642  W: 564 8155
From: whit@carson.u.washington.edu (John Whitmore)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: WD-40 To Clean Chains???
Date: 28 Jan 1993 01:31:05 GMT
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
NNTP-Posting-Host: carson.u.washington.edu

In article <26JAN93.22493201.0194@UNBVM1.CSD.UNB.CA> T0FG000 <T0FG@UNB.CA> writes:

>I am one of those misguided souls who uses WD-40 as a chain
>'lubricant'.  I have done so for years, and have not experienced
>problems with my chain disintegrating, collecting excessive dirt, or
>otherwise becoming difficult to use 

>Basically, I apply WD-40 before every ride and anytime the chain
>becomes wet.  Ordinary oil doesn't seem to do as good a job as the
>spray WD-40

	I commute in rainy Seattle; while I use WD-40 to clean the 
chain on occasion, I always lube with Tri-Flow (the squeeze
bottle, not the aerosol, which is hard to aim).  The
little teflon particles stay in the chain for a decent period
(six months to a year between reapplications) and the chain
hasn't frozen or worn yet.  It HAS rusted on the exterior surfaces,
but that's not the important part.

	The idea of reapplying 'lubricant' before every ride
and anytime the chain becomes wet (read: after every ride) leaves
me unsatisfied...  Oil is not acceptable because it attracts
grit from the road (and a LOT of grit splashes up with the 
water from those little puddles), and hot-dipping in paraffin
seems like too much work.

	John Whitmore

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: lloyd@leland.Stanford.EDU (William Koenig Lloyd)
Subject: Re: about cantilever brakes
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 93 02:52:11 GMT

In article <47460007@hpopd.pwd.hp.com> garethb@hpopd.pwd.hp.com (Gareth Barnard) writes:
>The rear cantis on my XTR setup are shorter than the front ones. I think most
>canti sets are made this way. Im not sure why though. Maybe the rear ones need
>to be stiffer or the shortness gives increased performance at the rear.

The rear XTR brake arms are shorter than the front ones so they don't feel
"mushy."  The extra cable has a bit of tendency to give a mushier feel, so
Shimano's remedy was to make the arms shorter to give a more positive feel.
Never mind it gives you less leverage...

I personally don't mind mushy brakes.  I used to have XT brakes, and then
I switched to IRD switchbacks.  They feel really mushy, but they are really
strong, and they have good modulation, too.  It's just a matter of preference,
I guess...

Bill



Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: haker@whitewater.chem.wisc.edu (Michael Haker)
Subject: Re: Non-cartridge hubs (was LX DX XT XTR Confusion)
Organization: Physical Sciences Lab, UW-Madison
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 93 21:18:13 GMT

In article <C1An3G.2zD@mentor.cc.purdue.edu> flip@sage.cc.purdue.edu  
(Phillip D. Russell) writes:
> I pissed that I can't find the cheap Exage components anymore. I made
> the mistake of forking out the money for XT hubs just to have a
> different part of the hub fail each winter. The original Exage hubs
> are still in perfect condition and working great after fours years
> of all-weather commuting.
> 
> Flip

I've also got exage on my cummuting bike (which is making it through its  
second Wisconsin winter right now with only minor problems; in sub  
freezing weather something is freezing somewhere so I can't shift to  
smaller gears which requires the spring tension of the rear derailleur to  
do the shifting).

My questions: Are there any non-cartridge mountain bike hubs out there  
which would be compatible with a shimano freewheel?  Can you still buy  
Shimano freewheels?  Is there anything special about Hyperglide compatible  
derailleurs that require them to be used with hyperglide gears?  Or can  
one rebuild a cartridge hub, and how hard is it (probably not as simple as  
getting a bag of bearings and some grease)?

Mike Haker
haker@whitewater.chem.wisc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: A1WB <A1WB@UNB.CA>
Subject: RE: LOW ROLLING RESISTANCE TIRES
Organization: The University of New Brunswick
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1993 21:27:43 GMT

Thanks to all those who replied to my enquiry about low rolling
resistance tires.  Here's a summary:

The June 1989 issue of Bicycling Magazine contains an article by
Chester Kyle on tire dynamics.  He says a 24-inch wheel will have
about 30 percent higher rolling resistance than a 27-inch wheel
when aerodynamic drag forces are discounted.  But when wind drag
is considered a 24-inch spoked wheel is better than a similiar
spoked 27-inch wheel at speeds greater than 25 mph.  A 27-inch
disk wheel is supior to a 24-inch at any speed.

Continental appears to manufacture the highest pressure tires
available.  Continental track tubulars are rated on the sidewall
to 170 psi (can be taken to 200 psi or more) but are less reliable
than say a Continental Super Sport Ultra clincher rated at 135 psi
but which can be inflated to 180 psi without blowing the tire off
the rim.

Slick tires have lower RR.

Latex tubes are light and are more flexible (lower RR) than butyl tubes.

In my application, between 2-5 hp is going to be transmitted. An
average speed of 24 kph is necessary.  Top speed will be around 50
kph.  The radius of the curves of the track are quite large so
lateral forces are not that great.  The driving technique is to
accelerate under power then turn off the engine and then coast.  The
total weight of the vehicle and driver will be around 200 lb. or a
bit more.  Acceleration is not that critical so really light weight
tires are not necessary.

The race is held at Eaton Corporation's test track in Marshall, Michigan
(about 2 hrs from Detroit).

Bruce Morton
From: sbixby@cup.portal.com (Steven W Bixby)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: XT Cassette/free-hub dissasembly
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 93 10:15:29 PST
Organization: The Portal System (TM)
Distribution: usa


I took a ride on Alpine road yesterday afternoon, learning in the 
process that it wasn't dried out, yet.  :-(

It was mostly firm, but some parts were muddy, and some parts had
the perfect combination of semi-dry clay mud that sticks to everything
with an amazing tenacity.  Naturally my bike is very well coated and
much of the mechanics are well infused with it.

I would like to hose down the whole bike, and re-pack all the bearings
and stuff, partly because I hosed it down, and partly because it's been
awhile since the hubs have been re-packed anyway.  (900-1000 miles?)

I've never torn down my rear hub yet, although I've done the trick on
some older, cheap bikes that I've owned or worked on in the past.

So instead of starting from scratch and making three trips to the store
for tools, can anyone give me a list of tools required to tear down
the rear hub of my '91 Deore XT components?

Also, since I can't seem to find a book that covers the free-hub and
cassette mechanics, can anyone do a quick rundown about how to 
disassemble and what to look for?

Thanks in advance... post here or E-mail, I read both.

  -swb- (Steve Bixby, sbixby@cup.portal.com)
From: chris@carnival.lbl.gov (Chris Moll)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Chorus F. Derailer Sticks..
Keywords: n
Date: 22 Jan 93 22:43:12 GMT
Organization: Lawrence Berkeley Laboratory, California
NNTP-Posting-Host: carnival.lbl.gov

David J. Albelo writes:
> Hi, I am trying to fix this problem with my front derailer, and I've
> run out of ideas. The derailer moves fine when I shift up to the big
> ring, but when I go back down to the smaller gears, the derailer moves
> a little then stops and I have to reach down and push it to the smaller
> ring. 

It sounds like the spring is to weak to overcome the resistance in the
pivots.

If you really can't disassemble the deraileur (If so I'm disappointed in
Campy - losing their remaining selling point) you can almost certainly
pop the spring off at one of its ends with a screwdriver.  Squirt oil into
the pivots, work them back and forth, and repeat.  Lever the spring
back in place and reassemble.  The derailleur should then work smoothly
enough for the spring to do its work.
--
Chris Moll                       (510)486-7891
---
A vacuum is a hell of a lot better than some of the stuff that nature
replaces it with.        -- Tenessee Williams
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: EPLUS17@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu (Richard Engelbrecht-Wiggans)
Subject: Re: The Future of the Bike
Organization: C.C.S.O.
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1993 04:27:38 GMT

In article <C19LAs.n1z@ccu.umanitoba.ca>
yschin@ccu.umanitoba.ca (Yu-Shin Chin) writes:
 
>In article <C17qto.G35@dcs.ed.ac.uk>, cao@dcs.ed.ac.uk (Christopher Owens) writes:
>|> It's just a little thing.  What I want is a
>|> little metal loop on the handlebars wide enough
>|> for a security cable to go through.  Vandals
>|> could still nick your gear changers (this is a
>|> mountain bike here) and brake levers, but not
>|> the stem and bar, and it'd take about a hundred
>|> times longer than undoing the Z-bolt and
>|> cutting the cables.  Sound bitter?  Hey, it's a
>|> hard world out there, kids.
>
>
>No kidding, they'll steal anyting.  Once I locked my bike outside the while taking a shower at the gym.  Half an hour later, someone had come by and
>stripped the profile handle bar extensions off my mountain bike.
>
I once ended up with an extra Campy pedal.  It had french threads,
so it went on the only bike with french threaded cranks...my wifes
old clunker with cottered steel cranks..to replace a cheap pedal
that outlived its usefulness.  One day she came out of her office
to discover that someone had taken that pedal...just the pedal!
I consoled myself with the thought that anyone who stole a single
pedal probably thought they knew quality when they saw it, and then
used it on their gazillion dollar english threaded cranks.  (French
threads are just enough smaller/different so that the pedal seems
to screw into english threads properly, but strips out VERY quickly.)
 
Richard E+17
 
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: dick@ncs.com (Dick Anderson)
Subject: Re: Demise of wool winter jerseys?
Organization: National Computer Systems, Inc.
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 19:23:42 GMT

Lawrence R. Dodd writes:
>
>What is it with every manufacturer making its jackets and everything else
>almost entirely black?  
...
>Does anyone out there know the reason for the
>prevalence of dark winter apparel?
>
>Larry
>dodd@roebling.poly.edu

From my experience, riding in the winter is a dirty business.  It's not
unusual to come home covered in road dirt that has been splattered up
from the pavement.  Light colored clothing soon becomes stained with
this dirt, and dark clothing is easier to keep clean. Perhaps this is
the reason.

----------
Dick Anderson
Minneapolis

-- 

Dick Anderson
Minneapolis

Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 25 Jan 1993 10:33:54 EST
From:         ZGDSHSE <ZGDSHSE@SJUMUSIC.BITNET>
Subject:      Mask Plan Ideas

{
You seem to be ahead of me on carving.  I have spent quite a lot of
$$$ on tools, but am yet to put knife to wood.  A bit apprehensive
I suppose.  So far I have just bought books and tools.

Some thoughts on books I have that might help:
Bridgewater and Bridgewater (1991). Carving totem poles and masks.
Sterling Publishing, New York.  Thorough designs based on Pacific
(northwest) Indian items.  How to lay out designs, use tools, etc.

Slattum (1992).  Masks of Bali.  San Francisco, Chronicle Books.
Just pictures, but if you can design from a picture, these are
quite interesting if you like Balinese masks..which I truly do!

Fine Woodworking on Carving (1986). Taunton Press, Newtown, CT.
Carving all sorts of things.  One chapter on masks.

Let me know if I can provide more detail.

Gene Sampson
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: pauld@mail.boi.hp.com (Paul Davis)
Subject: Re: thickness planer minimum (thinness planer?)
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 17:09:19 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

I've used my Ryobi AP-10 thickness planer to plane stock down to
1/16" many times.  Straight-grained maple and birch work very well.  
I used to use a carrier board and a small piece of double-stick tape 
(not the whole length--that tape's expensive), but now I have my planer 
installed in a table, with 3/4" plywood running through the bed to 
extend its effective length to six feet, and I just run the stock right 
through by itself.  I cut the stock to 1" by 24-36" by just over 1/16", 
then take sparing passes with the planer until the stock fits the slot 
I'm going to use it in.

With this method there are frequent "explosions" (maybe 1 in 5 times) where 
the stock shatters when it's part way through, usually where the grain 
changes direction.  These explosions are alarming, but so far nothing has 
shot out of the planer and the knives have shown no damage.  Still, I
don't like the experience, so I've been trying to get the same precision
of thickness with the tablesaw, with fairly good results.

I use a lot of these thin splines on my picture frames, and I've tried
many methods to thickness them accurately, including handplaning, 
bandsawing, beltsanding, and passing them through a thickness sander that 
I cobbled up from a drum sander and a fence on the drill press (this 
method resulted in a few projectiles).  The tablesaw is probably best,
but, in order to get the precision I need, I have to set the fence to 1/16"
and cut the splines between the fence and the blade, instead of off the
other side of the stock, which is much safer.  I made a big push block
that sits on top of the stock and pushes both sides through the blade,
instead of just the piece between the fence and the blade, but this
operation requires removal of the guard and the splitter, and I try to
avoid doing that whenever possible.  I also clamp a sheet of masonite
over the whole table top, then run the blade up through it.  This gives me
an instant tight-fitting throat around the blade, preventing the narrow
spline from dropping through it the gap..

Paul Davis
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: scot@fc.hp.com (Scot Heath)
Subject: Re: What wood goes well with Birch-veneer ply?
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 23:08:36 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Fort Collins Site
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8.5]

It ain't what they call you, it's what you answer to. -Bill Clinton (walsha@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com) wrote:

: I love birch venner ply. Does anyone have any ideas on an
: common wood to use for trim if you like the look of natural wood?

: -- somthing that goes well with birch or stains the same shade.

How about ------ birch?


--
DISCLAIMER_DISCLAIMER_DISCLAIMER_DISCLAIMER_DISCLAIMER_DISCLAIMER_DISCLAIMER

Everything I write is my opinion only.  Noone else would want it.

DISCLAIMER_DISCLAIMER_DISCLAIMER_DISCLAIMER_DISCLAIMER_DISCLAIMER_DISCLAIMER

Scot E. Heath                             Nothing beats turning clay to dust
Fort Collins, CO
scot@hpfcla.fc.hp.com
From: rhaar@albert.cs.gmr.com (Bob Haar)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Forstner bits...
Date: 21 Jan 93 16:54:43 GMT
Reply-To: rhaar@albert.cs.gmr.com
Organization: G.M. Research Laboratories

In article 13052@ttinews.tti.com, bellas@soldev.TTI.COM (Pete Bellas) writes:
|>In article <1993Jan19.194623.25188@kodak.kodak.com>,
|>kroth@sunshine.Kodak.COM (David Kroth) writes:
|>
|>> Anyone ever used a forstner bit in a hand held electric drill?
|>> What were the results like? 
|>
|>> I need to drill a 1 3/8" hole for a clock movement (a mini clock
|>> from Clockit).  I am willing to spend $20 for a forstner bit
|>> but not $300 for a drill press.  If I buy the bit, will it even
|>> be useable?
|>
|>I have used forstners up to 1 7/8" in a hand held drill, the larger the bit
|>the harder it is to control however. Since this is a one time deal I would
|>go ahead and use it, be sure to clamp your work piece securely and start the
|>forstner dead vertical (it will tell you if it isn't vertical :-). You won't
|>get as good a pocket as you would with a drill press, but if you are careful
|>it should be acceptable.
|>

I have had pretty good results using Forstner bits in the 3/4"
to 1 1/2" range in a hand held electric drill, if the hoels are not
too deep (up to about an inch). For deeper holes or larger bits,
you will probably need some means to keep the drill perpendicular
to the work piece. A drill press is good, but a cheaper alternative
is to use the Port-Align drill guide that mounts on a regular
electric drill. This also has the advantage that you can bring it
to large or fix workpieces that would be difficult to handle in a
drill press.

---
  	Robert Haar               InterNet : rhaar@gmr.com 
	Computer Science Dept., G.M. Research Laboratories
DISCLAIMER: Unless indicated otherwise, everything in this note is
personal opinion, not an official statement of General Motors Corp.


Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU