HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: fellow@natinst.com (Osbert Tan)
Subject: 93 Mazda MX6 - v6
Organization: National Instruments, Austin, TX
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 23:03:17 GMT


I just picked up my new MX6 couple of days ago. On the whole, I'm
pretty satisfy with the ride, handling. In view of the runin period 
requirement, I've not been able to drive it hard. However, I used
to own a 90 Nissan SX240 SE, and seems to me that SX240 rev at a
lower rpm when traveling at say 60 mph (2500 as compare to 3000 rpm), 
any speed beyond that though, MX 6 feels smoother and much quieter. 
I am not sure if the inherent higher rev at lower speed is due to the 
small size 6 cylinders of Mx 6, or heaven forbid any other undesirable
reasons ? And of course I have not been able to feel the expected 'punch'
whilst accelerating due to again the run in period requirement. Would
any other owner care to share her/his first hand experience ?

-Osbert
-- 
                                     _ _
---------------------------------ooo--U--ooo------------------------------------
fellow@cs.utexas.edu  Standard disclaimer applies. My opinions are, simply mine.
fellow@natinst.com            Down with racism. Down with imperialism.
From: goldberg@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Mark Goldberg)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Radar Detectors and regular people
Date: 12 Aug 92 18:43:50 GMT
Reply-To: goldberg@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Mark Goldberg)
Followup-To: rec.autos
Distribution: na
Organization: Naval Surface Warfare Center, Annapolis, MD

In rec.autos, bense@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ron Bense) writes:
>Not much chance of this happening, Tom. Connecticut recently repealed
>their ban [on radar detectors].

One of the reasons CT may have done this is that they have cut way back
or eliminated the use of radar speed detection.  Experience was that
the radar guns had health consequences for the police that used them.
So I expect CT to employ VASCAR (timing between two points) or that
new laser-based speed detection.  Radar detectors are useless against
these "threats."

   /|/| /||)|/  /~ /\| |\|)[~|)/~   |   Everyone's entitled to MY opinion.
  / | |/ ||\|\  \_|\/|_|/|)[_|\\_|  |      goldberg@oasys.dt.navy.mil
========Imagination is more important than knowledge. - Albert Einstein=======
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: $758 for an oil change?
From: kts@beach.csulb.edu (Ken Sumida)
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 04:19:13 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Cal State Long Beach

In article <1992Aug20.105423.21815@tsoft.sf-bay.org> meiboy@tsoft.sf-bay.org (MeiBoy of UCU) writes:
>>
>>I thought I would put my $.02 ($500) into this discussion.
>>
>>I just got the following quote:
>>
>>I called Swanson Ford in Los Gatos, CA (recommended by several people)
>>and they said the 30,000 mile service is $550 - 575.  That includes
>>fuel injection service (clean injectors throttle body...) changing all
>>filters on the car, tune-up, scan all codes (computer system).  He says
>>the SHO is actually $150 cheaper than a car with auto transmission.
>>
>[paragraph eliminated]
>
>>Now that's on a SHO, and I can't imagine that they charge less for a
>>SHO than for some of the other cars Ford makes.  $758 sounds about right
>>to me if you have auto tranny.  Keep in mind that the 30K service is a Major
>>service point, so I figured it would be in the neighborhood of $500.
>>
>>Tom Pickett 
>>tpickett@auspex.com
>>SHO  GOZE
>
>	I was the one who originally asked about the $758 for an oil
>change. Of course, it was an exageration, but I wanted to know what
>goes on at the 30,000 service.
>	I just got my Taurus Wagon back from the service and it was
>a little less than the original quoted price of $758.  It turned
>out to be $712.  Since it does have an auto transmission, that's probably
>why the cost was in the 700's.
>	The total cost of the parts (6 sparkplugs, 3 different filters,
>gasket, and some power purge device, and some other things) plus all the
>oils and lubes and fluids is $159.  The labor was the major expense
>at $553, calculated at $68/hr.  Of course, the labor cost of each
>individual task is already set, for example, rotating the tires is
>set as a half an hour job.  
>	The $553 for labor does include lots of stuff such as:
>lube all locks and hinges, pack front wheel bearings, balance wheels,
>alignment, service auto trans., check air bag, engine tune-up,
>and oil change.
>	All this cost a lot, but for someone who is not a
>do-it-yourselfer, what choice do I have.  You might say "go to a
>outside mechanic" which might be cheaper, but, as someone
>accurately pointed out, they always find something else wrong
>with your car.  Even if the mechanic is honest, and I'm sure
>there are some out there, they can't possible know everything
>they need to do for a Ford Taurus (or any other car for that
>matter) to keep it in shape.  They might do a tune-up and oil change
>for the car, but do they know about all the other things called for by the
>factory that they need to do?  At least the Dealer does a complete
>job.
>	For now, I'll stick with the dealer to be safe because
>a private mechanic ruined the engine of another car I had and I
>couldn't prove that he did it.


Pay $500+ for maintenance?  NEVER!!!!!!!
(I think you got taken for a ride)
From: PRAX@SLACVM.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Locking Lug Nuts & Broken Key: Suggestions?
Date: 12 Aug 92 17:32:29 GMT
Article-I.D.: SLACVM.92225.093229PRAX
Organization: Stanford Linear Accelerator Center

Had almost the same problem few years ago, except some idiot (me ?!?)
lost the key for all four rims and needed to have new tires put on.

I used a Craftsmans 13/16" (if my memory serves me right) socket and
hammered it onto the lock. Then grap a good long breaker bar and
SLOWLY loosen the lock nut.

The reason for the craftsman socket was that if I busted it....
lifetime gaurentee...

Joe P.
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: gerber@solbourne.com (Jill Lundquist)
Subject: Re: Sentra timing belt
Keywords: timing belt
Organization: Solbourne Computer, Inc., Longmont, CO
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 15:45:43 GMT

In article <BswI41.M4G@acsu.buffalo.edu> xia@acsu.buffalo.edu (Xinfu Xia) writes:
>Have you Sentra owner had enough of the idiot sensor light ripe off??
>Here is a another item.  Two local Nissan deals send me two coupons for
>change the timing belt at 60K mi.  One for $239, another for $165.
>I suspect they are playing the game to make us think we can save 
>$239-$165=$74 .    I checked the local auto store.  The price for
>the belt is $16 some thing.  So what the hell can they sell me the
>great saving at $165 ???

Changing the timing belt is not a simple operation.  (It's not like a
fan belt; it's inside part of the engine). I think it takes 2 - 3
hours of labor time. At the $40 - $50 an hour the dealer gets for
labor, that's why they charge $165.


Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen)
Subject: Re: Outrageous stealth vehicles
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 92 03:56:14 GMT

In article <12AUG92.00442738@skyfox.usask.ca> howp@skyfox.usask.ca writes:
>tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen) writes:
>>while we're on the subject, my favorite was the buick estate station
>>wagon with the 3.8 liter turbo from the GNX.  the buick engineers
>>actually built one, and it ran 0-60 in 5.3 seconds or so.  cornered
>>at .81 g, i think.  not too shabby for a full-size station wagon with
>>fake woodgrain paneling.
>
>Do you have a reference for this?  I think I remember reading about this 
>vehicle in C&D about a year or two ago, but it didn't run 0-60 in 5.3 sec.
>If I recall, I think it ran something like 7.1 (or was it 9.1?) sec.

went back and looked.  i was wrong.  it didn't run it in 5.3 sec.
the buick electra estate wagon turbo runs the 0-60 in 5.2 seconds.
quarter mile in 13.8 sec at 100 mph.  it has a 328 bhp version of the
GNX engine.  wow, like, holy moly.  that makes it a little slower than
a ZR-1.  i'm wondering if maybe this rating isn't a little conservative,
considering that this thing weighs well over two tons and has an
automatic to boot.  source: C/D 7/89.  and from the picture, it looks
like it has the fake woodgrain, too.
-teddy
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: sudeep@arc.UUCP (Sudeep Sharma)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Need tire info. for 300ZX
Date: 14 Aug 92 18:34:03 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Advansoft Research Corp, Santa Clara, CA



I would like to get input from owners of 
1990+ 300ZX (non-turbo) regarding tires.
I currently have the original Michelin 
SPORT XGTV tires, and I was wondering
how does the Dunlop D40M2 (this is what
Nissan is putting on 1992 models) and
the Goodyear GS-C compare. I would like
to reduce the noise, and improve wet (rain)
and dry performance - and hopefully have
tires that would last over 20,000 miles.

Thanx in advance.

Sudeep.
apple!arc!sudeep
From: andyc@hplsla.hp.com (Andy Cassino)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Saab brakes
Date: 12 Aug 92 16:22:00 GMT
Article-I.D.: hplsla.147520008
Organization: HP Lake Stevens, WA

mvelasco@fraser.sfu.ca (Matthew Velasco) discusses the brakes on his SAAB:

| I have a newer 900S, '89 to be exact.  I just replaced the front brakes--
| both rotor and pads in Jan, and two months later, my rear brakes as well--also
| pads and rotors.  I find it quite disturbing to think that I might need to do
| this every year... I usually drive uphill and downhill to school (on top of
| a mountain).  Oh, about my front brakes, I feel they are slipping, and a 
| little grinding sound... I hope I don't need to replace the rotors again.
| I will be going to the dealer sometime this week to report the brakes, and
| some other problems like the vibrating transmission?? during 60kmh @ 2000rpm, a broken door latch (won't hook to the door jamb), and a front-suspension 
| banging sound everytime I drive on quite bumpy roads.  All this from a 1989
| model. 

I have a 1988 900S with 108K miles. I've changed the front pads twice 
and the rear pads once (at 90K). I expect to replace front pads and rotors 
soon. That will be the first time for the rotors.

Brake life is greatly affected by driving habits. Probably 80% of my
driving is on the highway. If I drove more in the city, I'd expect to 
replace the brakes more often. Also, if lots of salt is used in your locale, 
that can greatly reduce brake life.

After several inspections and attempts at tightening up various components,
my front end rattles all but disappeared when I got new shocks installed. 

| My dealer here did not put the front rotors under warranty, but he DID put
| it for my rear brakes.  Does that sound odd to you?
|        

Yes.

    %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
    % Andy Cassino                                       %
    % Hewlett-Packard - Lake Stevens Instrument Division %
    %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
From: ajay@acsu.buffalo.edu (Ajay Shekhawat)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: "Factory Air"
Date: 16 Aug 92 23:23:30 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo, Dept. of Computer Science

Brian.E.Hannon@dartmouth.edu (Brian E. Hannon) writes:
: In article <327mj7#.esprit@netcom.com> 
: 
: > As far as I know, Honda still does not install A/Cs at the factory.  They
: > are installed by the dealer.  My most recent data point in this a friend
: > who bought a 90 Integra.
: 
: As of about a year ago, Integras and Civics weren't, Legends and
: Accordions were installed at the factory.  Honda has since come out
: with a "new" air conditioning system, so I don't know if the same still
: holds...  as for the Vigor, I dunno.
: 
: [rest deleted]
:

Civic still doesn't come with a factry installed A/C. 
Can someone tell me what is a good price for the A/C in a Civic LX?
A dealer nearby is quoting me about $1200 for A/C in a 1992 Civic LX...

I'd like to hear from other people who bought a 1992 Civic. How much did you
pay for the A/C and the Stereo ?

Thanks,

Ajay

--
ajay@cedar.Buffalo.EDU
Center of Excellence for Document Analysis and Recognition
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: nancy@jpl-devvax.jpl.nasa.gov (Nancy Feagans)
Subject: Re: $758 for an oil change?
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory (NASA)
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 17:59:32 GMT

In article <1992Aug17.215551.4386@tsoft.sf-bay.org> meiboy@tsoft.sf-bay.org (MeiBoy of UCU) writes:
>Usually when I take my car to the Ford dealer every 7500 miles for
>sheduled maintenance, it costs about $170 and it includes
>oil change, checking the hoses, battery, etc., lubing the chassis,
>and rotating the tires.  
>But today, I took my car in for the 30,000 mile sheduled maintenance
>service and the  guy told me it will cost $758.  And this is not
>for fixing anything.
>Can anybody tell me what they do at 30,000 mi. that they don't
>do at other mileages on Ford cars?
>Has any other Ford owners experienced the same thing at their
>30,000 mile maintenance?

Good grief!  When I took my '90 4Runner in for the 30k service they
charged roughly *half* of what you paid....and I thought THAT was
expensive!  Did you shop for the best price by calling around beforehand?
I did, and went with the dealer who performed the required servicing and
no more, plus I had received a coupon through the mail for a discounted
price.  The range I was quoted for my 30k service ran from $320 to $599.

-- 

Nancy J. Feagans     (818) 306-6423
Jet Propulsion Lab   nancy@jpl-devvax.Jpl.Nasa.Gov
"Not a shred of evidence exists in favor of the idea that life is serious."
From: johns@trident.datasys.swri.edu (Stephen Johns)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: windshield problem
Date: 18 Aug 92 18:11:07 GMT
Organization: Southwest Research Institute, San Antonio

In article <1992Aug18.155855.6698@nynexst.com> ziny@nynexst.com (Ziny Flikop) writes:
>I have Buick and Galant. On each of them about 80,000 miles. I drive them on the same road. On Buick I have an  original windshield, but on Galant I am changing
> already fifth windshield now. Can somebody tell my why?
>
>
>
>ziny@nynexst.com

Trucks in front of you keep kicking up large rocks?
You stop really hard and your seatbelts don't work?
You live in a rough area and don't have bullet-proof glass?

:)

-- 
Stephen Johns, Research Analyst
Southwest Research Institute, SA, TX 78228 (512) 522-5751
From: fierro@uts.amdahl.com (Doug Fierro)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Electric Cars BS
Date: 12 Aug 92 21:32:37 GMT
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

In article <4696@balrog.ctron.com> smith@ctron.com writes:
>In article <1992Aug4.054859.19610@dartvax.dartmouth.edu>, Brian.E.Hannon@dartmouth.edu (Brian E. Hannon) writes:
>
>>Yes, power plants could be cleaner, much cleaner.  In fact, I'd like to
>>see power plants that produce no pollution at all gaining all their
>>energy from solar powered boilers and photoelectric cells.  But,
>>nobody's perfect and those powerplants that violate epa regulations are
>>still considerably cleaner per kJ of energy produced than your car.
>
>Sorry, Brian, but you are dead wrong.  Cars are now at the tail end of over
>20 years of increasingly strict standards about emissions.  When the next
>round of improvements goes in next year the EPA will have massive problems
>even *certifying* compliance, the emissions will be so low that the current
>crop of test equipment will be obsolete, and the new equipment is hideously
>expensive.  They are now pressuring New Hampshire to set up central testing
>every year for all cars - terrific idea, I'm sure.  I'm also sure that it is
>long past time to stop polishing the catalytic converters and get started on
>other major sources.

  Car and Driver did an extensive article earlier this year I think on
electric cars.  I'll have to find the magazine and read it again to get
the specifics, but some things they mentioned:

  1) only about 1/3 of the atmospheric pollution is attributed to
     passenger cars

  2) Cars produced today are more efficient and pollute less than a
     coal burning factory.  This is adjusted of course for equivalent
     units of energy used.

  3) Electric cars move the source of pollution to where the electric
     power plant resides.

  They covered more stuff, like the latest breathroughs in battery technology
and other stuff.  I think I'll try to post it sometime because so many people
have incomplete or incorrect ideas on electric cars in general.

  Doug
-- 
                                                     Doug Fierro
                                      |\             UTS System Software
  O                         __________|_\______      CASE tools development
  \_.______________________| * * * * * * * * */      fierro@uts.amdahl.com
 __\____                   |=================/       (408)746-7102
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: dan@seismo.noname (Dan Hagedorn)
Subject: Re: How Accurate is the Blue Book?
Reply-To: dan@seismo.noname
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 20:00:50 GMT

Auto dealers lying to you ??? NEVER!!! They are THE MOST HONEST and
TRUSTED professionals!!!

Actually, I have caught several of these sleazebuckets in bold-faced
lies, pointed their errors out to them, and told them where to put
their lying mouths.

Consider:  Last year I wanted to trade my 1985 VW Quantum in on a new
car.  The VW was in excellent condition with about 35K miles, new tires,
new this and that.  At every dealer I was given a LOW price, quoted
from the Bluebook, and ocassionally shown the page in the book to 
backup their offers.  No dealer would give me (on a trade-in) more than
the book price.  One even called the local VW dealer and got a price
from him.  When I later checked with the owner of the VW dealership, I
found out that the price he told the other dealer was about $1000 higher
that the other dealer told me was given to him!

DON'T PAY ABOVE BOOK VALUE FOR YOUR NEW/USED CAR !!!  1st, if it is to
be financed, lenders use the book value to decide how much they will loan 
you on that car.  2nd, IF your new/used car is damaged in a wreck, your
insurance company will only pay you book value ... you stand to lose lots
of $$$ if it is totalled. 3rd, you CAN find good deals, without excessive 
profits for dealers, just look and deal hard.  If a dealer wants to make
100-200$ profit on a car, or he has "too much into that car", let him 
lose, NOT YOU !!!

Consider buying from an individual.  You can get a good deal, but be sure
that the car is checked out by a reputable mechanic first.  A local repair
shop I know of charges $19.95 to completely go through a car and list all
current and potential problems.  That is cheap insurance for the buyer.

Just my 2c.
From: valdesus@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Joseph Valdesuso)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: quest van
Date: 19 Aug 92 17:47:47 GMT
Reply-To: valdesus@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Joseph Valdesuso)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

(both are made on the same assembly line in Ohio) but the Villager has
more interior room and better styling.  Both vans are almost identical
to each other.
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: fwk@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (f.w.kerfoot..iii)
Subject: Re: Consumers Union needs a new driver
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 15:32:17 GMT

From article <+=fyapm@rpi.edu>, by johnsh@aix.rpi.edu (Hugh Johnson):
> In the most recent issue of Consumer Reports, they tested some heavy-duty
> sports cars.  However, I think they need a new test driver.  Witness:
> 
>                            0-60
>                            ----     
> Nissan 300ZX Twin Turbo     6.1
> Chevrolet Corvette LT1      5.5
> 
> What, was he starting in third gear? These times are about a second off of 
> what these cars are capable of.  Now, granted, CR isn't an enthusiast's
> magazine, but if they're going to report on sports cars, they should drive
> them like the people who buy these cars would drive them.  I guess they've
> been driving Subaru Justys and Chevy Corsicas too long.  Also, they rated

It is interesting to read some of the techniques that the enthusiast
magazines use to achieve the best possible numbers for acceleration,
like clutch drops at the red line, etc. While it is interesting to know
the ultimate capabilities of a car you migh buy in that sense, it is
also interesting to know the capabilities of the car in a less
maintenance-intensive mode, like normal clutch engaugement, and then
nail it.

> the Mazda RX-7 third (Nissan 1st, 'Vette 2nd, and the Subaru SVX 4th) for
> one reason, it seemed: it was uncomfortable because the ride was so rough.
> I'd love to see anyone who bought one of Mazda's gorgeous new RX-7's sell
> it immediately because it didn't ride nice and soft like a Buick Roadmaster.
> There are SPORTS CARS, guys! They aren't practical, or comfortable.  They
> are fast, furious and fun.  Cars that cater to the ego as much as to the road.
> If CR can't see that, maybe they should stick to testing econoboxes. 

Many people buy sports cars both for "sports" and as "cars", and in that
sense it is useful to know if you will need to put on your kidney belt
every time you go to the grocery. A balance between ride and comfort
may not be part of your car purchase decisions, but it is a part of
enough other persons decisions that I think CU's inputs are useful.

Having said that, as an enthusiast I would not purchase my "fun" cars
based only on CU's input, but having CU's input (with an understanding of
where they are coming from) as well as the inputs of the enthusiast's
mags is useful, at least to me.

Frank Kerfoot
fwk@homxc.att.com
From: c23vgs@kocrsv01.delcoelect.com (Victor Sperry)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: How Accurate is the Blue Book?
Date: 20 Aug 92 14:43:33 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Delco Electronics Corp.
Originator: c23vgs@kobcsy01


In article <1992Aug19.214501.17144@engage.pko.dec.com>, wiryaman@riscee.pko.dec.com (Santa Wiryaman) writes:
> Although I am not an expert in the used car market, here is my view of the
> NADA book value.  Please correct me if I am wrong.
> 
.
.
.
<stuff deleted>
.
.
.
> 
> -- 
> Santa Wiryaman
> 
> INTERNET : wiryaman@riscee.pko.dec.com
> UUCP     : ...!decwrl!riscee.pko.dec.com!wiryaman


I too am not an expert, but here's what I believe.

The blue book values are the best and fairest prices anybody has, although
dealerships like to use their own personal price books, so watch out. Always
go to the library and get the real NADA values yourself.

The wholesale price is what a person trading in their car can expect to get.
The retail price is what a used car buyer can expect to pay a dealer and
includes the dealer's middleman markup. The loan value is one of the other
two values (wholesale, I think) minus your percentage (10%?) down.

If you buy from a dealer, expect to pay more than when buying from a private
party. It may be worth it if the car comes with a 30 day warranty; otherwise,
you're better off buying from a private party at wholesale.

When selling an old car, it's often easier to sell it to a private party,
just because he/she probably doesn't trade in cars for a living and is less
likely to know how to screw you. Here in Indiana (and possibly in other
states although I don't believe it was this way in my home state of Florida),
however, you only pay sales tax on the price of your new car purchase MINUS
what the dealer gives you for your trade-in. If you're trading in a late-
model auto, the tax benefit can EASILY eclipse the benefit of selling to a
private party, especially since you can't guarantee the private sale will
close anytime soon.

BTW, if buying a car from a dealer's used car lot, I wouldn't ask the
previous owner what he sold the car to the dealer for, since dealers are so
good at playing the pricing game. The price he got is likely to be
meaningless. Just use the blue book.

-- 
Vic Sperry      (317)451-0036    Domain: c23vgs@kocrsv01.delcoelect.com
Software Engineer                UUCP:   deaes!c23vgs
Delco Electronics Corporation
GM: 8-322-0036    Mail: PL401    Pournelle's law: one user, at LEAST one CPU