HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: ychoi@unixg.ubc.ca (Yen Choi)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Help, need specs for PERFbox for Rockford Fosgate 18 inch
Date: 11 Jan 1993 19:10:10 GMT
Organization: University of British Columbia, Vancouver, B.C., Canada
NNTP-Posting-Host: unixg.ubc.ca

Hi, like the title says, I would greatly appreciate it if someone could 
post the specs for a Rockford Fosgate 18 inch sub.

thanks alot. :)

-- 
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------+
| -=*> Yen Choi ........................ University of British Columbia | 
| Internet : ychoi@unixg.ubc.ca ................ Vancouver, B.C. Canada |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------+
Organization: University of Central Florida--Computer Services
Date: Sunday, 10 Jan 1993 12:22:11 EST
From: Michael `Anti-Microsoft' Brunetti <MICHAELB@UCF1VM.BITNET>
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: FORSALE: Pioneer/Premiere Car Audio

Pioneer / Premier KEX-M500        For Sale:  $400.00 or best offer!

        - Full logic Cassette deck  w/Detachable Faceplate
        - CD Changer Controller
        - 18 FM / 16 AM Presets
        - Dolby B & C, Automatic Metal/Chrome
        - Wireless remote control
        - 2 acustic memories
        - Aux. In
        - Leather case for face plate
    * * * Product of the year / Decade by Car Audio & Electronics
        - With box and information

Pioneer / Premier EQ-6500         For Sale:  $225.00 or best offer!

        - 9 band Passive EQ w/variable subwoofer output
        - Dual Illumination
        - Dual amp balancer
        - With box and information

* * * * * Or both for $575.00 or best offer!

        If interested please call:

                Michael Peluso
                (407) 275-0086
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: bhostetl@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Brian Hostetler)
Subject: Re: HOT CD'S
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 17:31:16 GMT

In article <1993Jan4.095619.1661@schbbs.mot.com> RYNA10@waccvm.corp.mot.com (Jay Kopycinski) writes:
>	When I pull my CDs out of my Pioneer after a few songs,
>they are incredibly hot.  Have there been any studies on whether
>this is detrimental to the CD?  Or if it is possible to melt
>the ink on the label of the disc?
>How hot is hot in your case ?
>I live in Phoenix where it gets pretty warm (115 deg F) in the summer.
>I've left CD's in my car changer throughout the day and have not had
>any problem with them.

	I can't say off hand what the temp of the CD's are, but they
seem very hot.  And very hot is too hot for some of those imports that
I've had to shell out $25 for.


-- 
-brian

bhostetl@ucs.indiana.edu          |      "Even if the brain is removed,
bhostetl@silver.ucs.indiana.edu   |     the insekt continues to live..."
From: kurnik@lds.loral.com (Timothy J. Kurnik)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Am I going deaf?
Date: 8 Jan 93 06:23:54 GMT
Reply-To: kurnik@lds.loral.com
Organization: Loral Data Systems

Am I going deaf or does anyone else have this problem?  I find that every 3 or 4
days, I have to turn my car stereo up another notch to make it sound as loud as I
like to listen.  My girlfriend says I'm just accustomed to the volume and that anyone
else who listens to it thinks it's just as loud today as it was a month ago.

I've check the battery voltage (and it's been load tested by the dealer) and the
battery seems to be healthy.  Do I need a new or bigger alternator?

I have a Mazda Miata with an Alpine 8215 driving a PPI 1050 and a PPI 1075 amps.  The
1050 (100W) runs the mids and highs in the passenger compartment (2 MBQuart 6",
4 MBQuart tweeters and 4 Alpine 3 1/2").  The 1075 is bridged mono (300W mono) to at
one time a Boston Acoustics Pro 12" in the trunk.  But I blew that one and went to
the less expensive Volcano Pro 12".

Some I've questioned have said that I'm not pulling enough amps to warrant a bigger
alternator.  Others have said that I could get a bigger alternator even if I wanted
one.  They claim that many of the newer cars have computer chips which, among other
things, expect the output of the alternator to be within a certain range.  If this
is altered, it could damage the computer.  The dealer has no clue on this matter.

Help...

SEE YA!

- T.J.
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: brian@hopi.eel.ufl.edu (Brian Gentry)
Subject: Re: questions about dual voice coil subwoofers
Keywords: question subwoofer dual voice coil
Organization: UF EE Department (student)
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 93 20:06:57 GMT

In article <1993Jan10.211543.19261@netcom.com>, linley@netcom.com (Bruce James Robrert Linley) writes:
|> In a previous article scott@cwis.unomaha.edu (Scott Ames) spake...
|> >
|> >I have a couple of questions about single vs. dual voice coil subwoofers.  I
|> >understand that dual voice coil subwoofers can reproduce both channels of a
|> >stereo signal where-as single voice coil subs can only reproduce a mono signal
|> >or one channel of a stereo signal.  What I am wondering is can a dual voice
|> >coil subwoofer be wired to reproduce only one channel and then use another
|> >dual voice coil sub to reproduce the other channel?  What I am thinking about
|> >is getting one dual voice coil sub now and then getting another latter.
|> 
|> Bad idea. When you use the two coils together, the overall sensitivity of the
|> speaker goes down by about 10dB. Better to wait until you can get 2 single
|> voice coil subwoofers.

This is REALLY surprising to me.  Why does the sensitivity go down by
10 dB?  I've used dual voice coil subwoofers several times and I've 
never experienced this reduction in sensitivity.  Can you provide some
explaination for your claim?

			Brian L. Gentry
		   (brian@sioux.eel.ufl.edu)
From: kennyl@Sun.COM (Kenny Lopez - Silicon Valley EDA District Sales Rep)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Best Buys for '92 or '93
Date: 8 Jan 93 02:21:37 GMT
Reply-To: kennyl@Sun.COM (Kenny Lopez - Silicon Valley EDA District Sales Rep)
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
NNTP-Posting-Host: bonehead1.west.sun.com

Car, Audio, and Electronics publishes a  list of
car stereos, amps, and speakers they feel are
best buys.

Does anyone have this list?

Thanks,

Kenny
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: Peter Burke <pburke@macc.wisc.edu>
Subject: Toyota Pickup system recommendation needed
X-Xxdate: Tue, 12 Jan 93 17:05:21 GMT
Organization: Madison Academic Computing Center
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d11
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 93 23:07:21 GMT

I am trying to improve the sound quality in my standard
cab 1984 Toyota pickup.  
Space limitations and horrible stock speakers make me
wonder about a setup
with a 2-way crossover and a small 6" subwoofer behind the
passenger seat. A
small amp should be sufficient to drive the stock speakers
for anything above 120hz or so, while the bass may do well
with 20 to 40 watts.  I am currently using a pretty nice
tape deck with Dolby C (but no CD input), although i may
also want to add a 6-disk changer one day (do they skip
bad in a stiff 4x4 like mine?).  Is there anyone out there
who has messed with Toyota standard cab installations? 
also: my budget is quite
limited!

thanks for any input.

Peter
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: bhostetl@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Brian Hostetler)
Subject: Re: Possible Reason for Hot CD's
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 23:08:42 GMT

In article <demaine.726270571@ee.ualberta.ca> demaine@ee.ualberta.ca (Cal Demaine) writes:
>  Do those of you who have problems with in-dash CD units use the head-unit's
>amplification?  I suspect that some of the thermal problems result of the
>demands placed on the unit's amplifiers.
>  If the system runs "acceptably cool" at no volume, you need an external
>amp.  The price of an amplifier comparible to the one in your head unit
>should be $50-$100.

	I'm fairly ignorant about this stuff, but I don't see how
getting an external amp is going to help.  If my unit already has an
amp built in, how would it be possible to by-pass it and use an
external one??

-- 
-brian

bhostetl@ucs.indiana.edu          |      "Even if the brain is removed,
bhostetl@silver.ucs.indiana.edu   |     the insekt continues to live..."
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: bromwich@phoenix.Princeton.EDU (Adam Todd Bromwich)
Subject: My Maxima's Bose Radio doesn't work! (but the tape still does)
Originator: news@nimaster
Organization: Princeton University
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 03:40:27 GMT

This is the second time my radio has gone on the fritz.  It's a 1989
Bose stereo that came with my Nissan Maxima SE.  I believe it's made by
Clarion.  The first time it broke, it was my fault..I was playing with
the CD port wires.  But it was repaired (for $150!).  However, all of a
sudden I try to turn on the radio and nothing happens.  But the tape
works fine!  

If anyone can help me, please send me email at:
bromwich@phoenix.princeton.edu

Also does anyone know where I can get a wiring diagram for the radio?

Thanks

Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: amigo@halcyon.com (Scott Rowin)
Subject: PerfectBox?
Organization: Northwest Nexus Inc. (206) 455-3505
Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1993 04:52:05 GMT


	A few months back a source for Perfectbox (greater then version 4.5)
was posted - just wondering if anyone knows where to find it - be it net
accessable (FTP) or by BBS. Perfectbox is the speaker design program that does
some automatic alignments.


					Thanks,
						Scott

Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: sbourgeo@pinocchio.Berkeley.EDU (Stephen Bourgeois)
Subject: Re: Temperature in car CD player
Reply-To: sbourgeo@pinocchio.Berkeley.EDU (Stephen Bourgeois)
Organization: Encore Computer Corporation
Distribution: rec.audio.car
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 17:08:28 GMT

In article <C04u57.BAI@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu>,
bhostetl@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Brian Hostetler) writes:
> 	When I pull my CDs out of my Pioneer after a few songs, 
> they are incredibly hot.  Have there been any studies on whether 
> this is detrimental to the CD?  Or if it is possible to melt 
> the ink on the label of the disc?
> 
> -- 
> -brian
> 
> bhostetl@ucs.indiana.edu          |      "Even if the brain is removed,
> bhostetl@silver.ucs.indiana.edu   |     the insekt continues to live..."


I left a cd in the player for 15-20 minutes after listening to cd's for
an hour.  When I came back the outside ridges of the cd melted a little.
The label was ok though...
  ---------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: rahayden@news.weeg.uiowa.edu (R Andrew Hayden)
Subject: FORSALE:  Pioneer Wedges / Amp / CB / more
Organization: University of Iowa, Iowa City, IA, USA
Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1993 04:01:46 GMT

I have the following car stereo equipment.  This equipment has been
installed once and was just recenlty removed when I purchased a
new car.

----------------------------------------------------------

Pioneer TS-X3 Speakers

60 Watt
Wedge style

Purchased 2 years ago for $150.  I'd like to get $40.

-----------------------------------------------------------

Sentrek SR-518 Speakers

60 Watt
5" Door speakers w/ grille

Purchased a year and a half ago for $65.  I'd like to get $30.

-----------------------------------------------------------

Sentrek SPA-185W Amp

160 Watt Amp (80w+80w)

There are some scratches in the casing, but it functions
excellent.  It really adds some "thump" to your bass.

I purchased this unit a year and a half ago for $120.  I'd like to
get about $50 if possible.

-----------------------------------------------------------

Kraco CCB-4007 CB Radio

40 channels + PA-out jack

$10

-----------------------------------------------------------

All prices are considered "or best offer" and do not reflect
shipping, which will depend on what is being ordered (we can hash
that part out).



-- 
]> I love my country                   + Robert Hayden                     <]
]> But I fear my government.           +                                   <]
]> Blind faith in your leaders, or in  +    rahayden@umaxc.weeg.uiowa.edu  <]
]> anything, will get you killed.      +    aq650@slc4.INS.CWRU.Edu        <]
Organization: North Dakota Higher Education Computer Network
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 01:32:46 CST
From: <UD180926@NDSUVM1.BITNET>
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Stolen or not?

Working at a stereo place, we have had a couple of "not-so-sures" come through
our install bay. A way we have found is asking them when they bought it,
then calling the company and just by the serial number they can tell when it
was bought.  As far as Precison Power, they told us it would take 3 days to
find out who bought it.  Then again, you never know if they sold it to
someone else.  The above is the best usually to tell if they are lying.  Ask
how long ago they bought it, and then compare it to what the manufactures' say
about how long ago it was bought as use you best judgement.
Brad
From: billy@bigdog.engr.arizona.edu (Billy Barr)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: questions about dual voice coil subwoofers
Summary: Sensitivity reduction is relevant to wiring
Keywords: question subwoofer dual voice coil
Date: 12 Jan 93 20:25:44 GMT
Organization: University of Arizona

I have an Orion XTR10DVC(actually it is my brothers).  The spec sheet
shows that the sensitivity varies by approximately two decibels.  This
rated sensitivity(depending on the wiring) is either more or less than
that of the XTR10, which is a single voice coil woofer.  There is almost
no penalty in using the dual voice coil woofers, provided that your
system is wired properly.

NOTE:  It is not recommended that you run the coils in stereo.  i.e. The
left channel output of the amp to one coil and the right to the other.
This could make the woofer sound bad.  This recommendation comes from
the people at Classic Car Sounds in Tucson Arizona.

The are several advantages to the dual voice coil woofers.  My system
has a JBL GTQ200.  I plan to buy the GTQ400 to drive a subwoofer.  This
amp is a four channel that can be bridged into two channels, each of
wich delivers 200watts.  Using this amp with a mono signal, I will drive
both coils.  This will put 400watts to the sub.

Another advantage is in the competition systems.  My brother has a U.S.
Amps 25HCA.  This is a 12.5w x 2 amp.  It doesn't sound like much, but
beleive me, it is extremely loud.  It can bridge into a one ohm load and
produce over 150watts.  By using two XTR10DVCs, the system plays
extremely loud for such a small power rating.
From: trw@spl1.spl.loral.com (Tim R Witort)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: subwoofers/boxes
Date: 5 Jan 93 17:41:18 GMT
Organization: Loral Software Productivity Laboratory

In article <1993Jan4.134912.1062@cmkrnl.com>, jeh@cmkrnl.com writes:
|> In article <demaine.725930198@ee.ualberta.ca>, demaine@ee.ualberta.ca (Cal Demaine) writes:
|> > An infinite baffle 'enclosure' is just a driver mounted in an infinitely
|> > large baffle board.  Since no one has an infinite amount of space in their
|> > car, we are forced to do it a little differently.  The trunk is accoustically
|> > sealed from the passenger compartment, and the driver is mounted in the
|> > baffle board that seperates the two.
|> 
|> I have a question about this:
|> 
|> What prevents the speaker cone from being driven forward (in the direction of
|> the passenger compartment) when someone slams the trunk lid?  

   Absolutely nothing.  That can and does happen when speakers are 
mounted in the rear deck using the trunk as the enclosure.

-- Tim
From: kirk@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Kirk Lindstrom)
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 17:15:27 GMT
Subject: Re: Possible Reason for Hot CD's
Organization: Shredding the water of SF Bay, HP-OCD
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car

>>  If the system runs "acceptably cool" at no volume, you need an external
>>amp.  The price of an amplifier comparible to the one in your head unit
>>should be $50-$100.
>
>	I'm fairly ignorant about this stuff, but I don't see how
>getting an external amp is going to help.  If my unit already has an
>amp built in, how would it be possible to by-pass it and use an
>external one??
>-- 
>-brian
>----------
Heat is generated (actually dissipated) by current flowing through a real
resistance and/or passing through semiconductors (such as voltage
regulators, diodes, etc) commonly found in amps.  If the head unit is
driving speakers with 4 Ohm impedances, then it has to supply lots of
current to play loud.  Power dissipation is DEFINED as current times
voltage drop, BTW.  If all a head unit has to do is drive a seperate amp,
then it shouldn't get hot as the amps input impedance is MUCH larger than
4 Ohms.

Kirk out
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: dubear@molbio.cbs.umn.edu (Dubear Kroening)
Subject: Looking for Mr. Woodson- Kenwood KRC 1004 Ques.
Organization: University of Minnesota
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1993 18:13:04 GMT


A few months ago noticed a post by a Mr. Woodson(?) who indicated that the 
Kenwood KRC 1004 car stereo had been recalled due to a problem with a fuse
holder.  Does the original poster or anyone else have any other info?  The 
Kenwood 800 # had no idea and the local repair person for Kenwood said that
he never heard of a recall and that the KRC 1004 doesn't have an internal fuse
holder.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanx in adv.

Dubear
From: kist@acsu.buffalo.edu (james e kist)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Pioneer CD-changer has trouble in cold weather
Date: 10 Jan 93 18:45:41 GMT
Organization: UB

In article <MDL.93Jan9172528@ak.cypress.com> mdl@cypress.com (Matt Landrum) writes:
>I have a Pioneer 6-CD changer in my trunk.  The first
>Winter I had it, it worked fine.  Now it has trouble
>tracking on cold days.  Could it just be dirty?  I've
>tried changing cartridges, cleaning the CD's etc.
>Any ideas?  The people who installed it seemed to
>be rather clueless on what might be causing it.

On a cold winter's day, when I bring my CD's in from my car to my home
Pioneer CD changer, the home CD changer has trouble tracking because the
CD's get "fogged up" from changing temperature so quickly (much like
eyeglasses get "fogged up"). Do you have heat in your trunk? This could be
causing the problem.


>--
>
>
>Matt Landrum, CAD Engineer      | e-mail: mdl@cypress.com
>Cypress Southeast Design Center | office: (601) 324-4609, FAX - 4614
>1 Research Blvd, Suite 200      | "You can get what you want if you
>Starkville, MS  39759           | know how to find it." -- Tower of Power
From: kirk@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Kirk Lindstrom)
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 18:16:59 GMT
Subject: Re: Adding Caps to amp inputs
Organization: Shredding the water of SF Bay, HP-OCD
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car

>	Just wonding how well adding caps (large value 100,000 uF) works.
>
>						Thanks, Scott
>----------
Well worth the trouble.  bought a 118,000 uF cap for $3 (used) at a store
called "Weird Stuff".  Added it to my rf460sd and was AMAZED at how much
improvement there was.  MB Quarts in front and Boston Acoustic 967s - boxed-
in the rear of a van running off Sony 5080 play without distorting on most
CDs at levels well above those that distorted without the capacitor.

Timewarp still distorts, but I think the 6.5" cone bottoms.

Kirk out
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: brian@navaho.eel.ufl.edu (Brian Gentry)
Subject: Re: port length
Organization: UF EE Department (student)
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 93 19:24:32 GMT

In article <1993Jan7.214127.27637@schbbs.mot.com>, bstdenis@mailbox.fwrdc.rtsg.mot.com (Brian St. Denis) writes:
[...]
|> I characterize the bass response after the new box as being lower for sure.
|> It is still muddy and boomy for most bass notes, though.  I think that this
|> box has a large response peak at about 50-60 Hz and the other, smaller box
|> probably had its peak at 70 or more Hz.  The increased size is definitely
|> better.

The port you describe (4" I.D.; 7.1" long) in the original 1.6 ft^3
box was tuned to ~46 Hz.  In the new 2 ft^3 box, it is tuned to
~41 Hz.  If you change the port to a 4" I.D. 16" long, it'll be tuned
to ~30 Hz.  This will DEFINITELY remove a lot (if not all) of the 
"boomy", underdamped quality from the sound.  Note that the port tuning
frequency is not necessarily the same place where you have a "hump" in
your response--but it may emphasize one that the box already has.

|> I am going to get an active crossover (I have a passive one now) to cut the
|> response at about 100Hz.  This should help the boomyness (a new word).

I doubt if the active crossover will make much difference in the "boomy"
quality of the sound.  It will more effectively remove the high frequencies
from the woofer, but it shouldn't effect the sound below it's cuttoff 
frequency.  For example, if you set the crossover to cut off at 80 Hz, it
should have absolutely NO effect below 80 Hz.
 
|> Anyway, what can I expect when I make the port between 14" and 16" long
|> compared to the existing 7.1" port?  Will it flatten the response?  Will
|> it lower the response?

It will almost certainly flatten your response.  If I had the specs on this
driver I'd simulate it with Perfect Box to be sure, but I'd guess that 
you have a pretty big hump at about 60 Hz right now.  Lowering the tuning
frequency (lengthening the port) should remove this hump and extend the
lower frequency response (it'll go lower before it rolls off).  Let
us know how it turns out if you change the port.
 
|> Thanks for any input and I'll post my results.
|> 
|> -Brian

			       Brian L. Gentry
			  (brian@sioux.eel.ufl.edu)
From: cjm9321@hertz.njit.edu (The InfoMan)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Changer skipping due to Bass
Date: 12 Jan 93 05:21:21 GMT
Organization: New Jersey Institute of Technology, Newark, N.J.


	Recently, my changer (Kenwood-C600) has been skipping when there
is a lot of bass. I cleaned the lens and I tightened it down it worked
for awhile I guess but it always came back.

	The configuration I have is, the x-over, amp, and changer are on
a piece of plywood on the floor with the MDF board of 2 12s on top.

	Bare with me, I'll try to draw it:

                     _________
		_____\_______/_____
		|     \     /     / 
		|     =======    (
		|       \_/       |
Back of Car ->	|		  |
		|  ______         |    <---   Bottom of Seat
		|  |    |   ____  |
		|  |____|  (____) /


	(It's a station Wagon with the third seat)

	Well, I had this configuration for about 6 months with no
problems. Except in the last month.

	I took the changer out and put it in the back seat and it work
fine. So I am just wondering what could be wrong, is it the cold
weather? (Since that just poped in my head after reading the recent
articles)

	Question now is, where do I put the changer so it's not
"exposed"? 


					Thanks in advance,




-- 
M A D E   .   . .---. .---.    \  Buy U.S.A. products,  /    xxxxx ==========
  I N     |   |  \    |___|    <     It's YOUR job.     >    xxxxx ========== 
 T H E    |   |    \  |   |    <  Christopher J. Massa  >    ================
-------   `---' `---' '   `    / cjm9321@hertz.njit.edu \    ================
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: yystg@lims02.lerc.nasa.gov (STEVE GRAHAM)
Subject: Re: questions about dual voice coil subwoofers
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Keywords: question subwoofer dual voice coil
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
Date: 12 Jan 1993 16:28 EST  

In article <1993Jan12.174440.26701@netcom.com>, linley@netcom.com (Bruce James Robrert Linley) writes...
>Sorry, I can't explain the physics of it, though it probably has something
>to do with inductance between the two coils. What I do remember is reading
>the spec sheets for the subwoofers (single vs. combined). The Radio Shack
>catalog comes to mind here. Anyway, the specs listed the sensitivity as 
>somewhere around 95 dB for each coil vs. 86 dB combined. Is it noticeable for
>such low freqs? Maybe not. Anyone wanna take this further?
>-- 
>Bruce James Robert Linley | "Any relationships established by marriage are not

When Radio Shack specs out the dual voice coil speaker, the combined rating 
is for the coils wired in series, which will reduce the power that they can 
draw from the power source/amp.

S. Graham