HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: kowalski@ganymede (Patty Kowalski)
Subject: raised beds and maple roots
Keywords: raised, roots, maple
Organization: Allen-Bradley Company, Ann Arbor MI, USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 14:59:10 GMT


I moved into a house with zero landscaping in front, except 
for empty  beds extending two feet from teh front of the 
house.  The front yard also has HUGE maple trees, make for
complete shade.  The problem:  when putting in annuals last
summer, I discovered the trees (I assume) also have roots
which make digging next to impossible.  This year, I want to 
plant some shade-loving shrubs, ground cover, and annuals,  
which means I'll have to dig even deeper.  

Two ideas:  (1)try to dig out the roots (with rototillers? 
saws?) so as to clear things out.  Will this hurt the
trees and wont the roots just come right back?  (2) Make
raised beds to plant in.  Will it be "bad" for the house, 
drainage-wise,  to have a raised bed up against the house 
(we have no basement or crawl space)?  Will the roots grow
up into my raised bed, creating the same problem again?

Any experience or ideas would be appreciated!


pk
From: HF.SXM@forsythe.stanford.edu (Sara MacGilvra)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Looking for a Rose
Date: 21 Jan 1993 10:17:34 -0800
Organization: Stanford University
NNTP-Posting-Host: morrow.stanford.edu



Hi,

Could anyone guide me as to where to find a hybrid (I think) rose
named Whisky Mac.

My local sources have failed me as well as Perkins. I saw it listed
in a catalog I tossed, because I was certain I could get it locally
again. (mutter, mutter)

This rose is unbelievably fragant.  The one I had has given up the
ghost and I can't bear the thought of not having one in the garden.

Thanks for your help.

Sara
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Edible Flowers
Date: 25 Jan 93 19:52:44 -0600
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

In article <C19yK8.z1@cup.hp.com>, tomm@cup.hp.com (Tom McNeal) writes:
> Don't forget 'Johnny Jump-ups', a small wildflower with deep purple
> and white petals.  I didn't see it in that big list, but I'm not sure
> what its scientific name is.  I wonder how many wildflowers are edible?

Johnny jump-up is one of the ancestors of the cultivated pansy, which is
as edible as its cousins the blue violets.

And remember, cultivated plants were once wildflowers ;-)


Kay
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: psmith@alfred.carleton.ca (Peter Smith)
Subject: Edible Flowers
Organization: Carleton University
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 18:43:23 GMT

Someone posted a message about edible flowers sometime ago.
Unfortunately, I didn't think I was interested at the time, but have
since changed my mind.

If that person, or someone else in the know, could repost or
preferably just list some of the better-tasting/easy-to-market
varieties I would appreciate it.

thanks!
From: rcooke@OAVAX.CSUCHICO.EDU (RON COOKE)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Looking for a Rose
Date: 21 Jan 93 19:50:54 GMT
Reply-To: rcooke@OAVAX.CSUCHICO.EDU
Organization: California State University, Chico
NNTP-Posting-Host: oavax.csuchico.edu

In article <1jmpbuINN9s4@morrow.stanford.edu>, HF.SXM@forsythe.stanford.edu (Sara MacGilvra) writes:
>
>
>Hi,
>
>Could anyone guide me as to where to find a hybrid (I think) rose
>named Whisky Mac.
>
>My local sources have failed me as well as Perkins. I saw it listed
>in a catalog I tossed, because I was certain I could get it locally
>again. (mutter, mutter)
>
>This rose is unbelievably fragant.  The one I had has given up the
>ghost and I can't bear the thought of not having one in the garden.
>
>Thanks for your help.
>
>Sara


This rose can be ordered from:

Pickering Nurseries, Inc.
670 Kingston Road
Highway 2
Pickering, Ontario L1V 1A6
Canada

(416) 839-2111

Ron and Lucy Cooke

PS Catalog for above is $3.00
**********************************************************
RON COOKE,CHEMISTRY DEPARTMENT
CALIFORNIA STATE UNIVERSITY-CHICO
CHICO, CA 95929-0210
RCOOKE@OAVAX.CSUCHICO.EDU
From: IEE470@MAINE.MAINE.EDU (Eric Beenfeldt)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Looking for Heliotropium seeds
Date: 24 Jan 93 21:57:50 GMT
Organization: University of Maine System


     Does anybody know what seed company sells Heliotropium arborescens seeds.
 I want to grow standard heliotropes and have been hunting for a source.  Thank
s in advance.

Thanks,

Robin
From: ai888@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Thomas Flesher)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: houseplants for dark corners?
Date: 21 Jan 1993 19:30:23 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: ai888@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Thomas Flesher)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc4.ins.cwru.edu


Are there any houseplants that will do well with little or no direct sunlight?

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: rthacker@bnr.ca (Rob Thacker local login)
Subject: Re: Q: Cost of starting seeds indoors
Keywords: seeds, light table
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Ontario, Canada
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 13:39:51 GMT

In article <C1E197.559@acheron.uucp> clarke@acheron.UUCP writes:
>In article <1jut5tINNirr@srvr1.engin.umich.edu>, wondering writes:
>|>I realize that this depends on the wattage of my lights and how 
>|> long per day the lights are on, but I'm not even sure what would 
>|> be a good level for these. 
>
>Use at least two shop lites ( 4 bulbs total ).  This comes out to
>160 watts * 10 hours = 1.6kwh/day * 30 days = 48 kwh/month.  In my
>unfortunate situation, this is 12 cents/kwh or $5.76 per month.
>

Actually, it's both worse, and better!  The worse is that the
ballast for the lights takes energy too, usually about 16 watts
for two 40W tubes, so your setup actually uses 192 watts.

The better part is that the 192 watts you use is also 192 watts of
electrical heat (except for any light which escapes through
the windows).  If you heat with electricity, then heating with
light (in a windowless room) is no more costly (the light is
absorbed by dark surfaces, heating them).  Of course,
natural gas makes for cheaper heating, but oil is probably
about the same.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: psmith@alfred.carleton.ca (Peter Smith)
Subject: Re: Canadian catalogues?
Organization: Carleton University
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 16:41:28 GMT

In <21JAN93.12186364.0182@UNBVM1.CSD.UNB.CA> LS45 <LS45@UNB.CA> writes:

>Hi, I was just wondering if there was a list for mail order
>catalogues in Canada for flowers and vegetables.  This will be my
>first garden and I'm getting restless for spring so I can start.
>Thanks in advance, D. Savoie

It's still January...so cool your cultivator!  Actually, I concede
that I love pouring through seed catalogues and planning things in
January. 

As for Canadian seed catalogues, last year I got all I wanted to know
about seed cos from Harrowsmith (either Jan or Feb issue, I think).
If you have trouble getting a hold of this or some other source, email
me and I can give you the addresses of the 4 I'm considering this year:

Stokes - major veg/flower North America-wide, but based in Canada

T&T - veg/flower/bulb/fruit/tree, Manitoba based

Richter's - if you like herbs, this is a must (I counted more than 20
varieties of basil alone in their catalogue)

Vesey's - based in P.E.I.  "Seeds for Short Seasons" is their claim to
fame (but don't all Canadian cos fall into this category by
necessity?)  Anyway, I've heard good things about Vesey's from an old
local guy who is commercial and knows the companies well.
From: ecologycntr@igc.apc.org (Ecology Center)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: If you could only plant one thing t
Date: 21 Jan 93 16:44:00 GMT
Nf-ID: #R:1993Jan18.215459.13709@bass.lkw.:-1937895120:cdp:1453300110:000:205
Nf-From: cdp.UUCP!ecologycntr    Jan 21 08:44:00 1993


I'd plant rhodies, (after finding hardy alaskan types), Caragana arborescens,
Dwarf Alberta Spruce (extremely sparingly), willow, Arctostaphylos uva-ursi,
and native herbaceous perennials in scads.

chris
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: resta@iei.pi.cnr.it (Giovanni Resta)
Subject: Books on Aizoaceae
Followup-To: rec.gardens
Organization: IEI-CNR Italy
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 12:35:03 GMT

Any reference to books on Aizoaceae ?
Thanks,
Giovanni.
resta@iei.pi.cnr.it
From: Val.Gillman@altern8.mi.org (Val Gillman)
Sender: FredMail@altern8.mi.org
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Edible Flowers
Date: 23 Jan 93  11:04:00 EST


>Someone posted a message about edible flowers sometime ago.


 Pansy - viola - jasmine - petunia - calendula - marigold -
 dianthus - chive - nasturtium - squash - daylily

 * XXYW 1.12 * ----  Now where did I put that thermo-nuclear device?

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: tomm@cup.hp.com (Tom McNeal)
Subject: Re: Edible Flowers
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 21:33:44 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

Don't forget 'Johnny Jump-ups', a small wildflower with deep purple
and white petals.  I didn't see it in that big list, but I'm not sure
what its scientific name is.  I wonder how many wildflowers are edible?

--
-------------------------------------------------------------------
tomm@hpindada.cup.hp.com
Tom McNeal at Hewlett-Packard's Information Networks Division 
19410 Homestead Rd., M.S. 43LN, Cupertino, CA  95014  (408)447-2300
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: djd@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (david.j.daulton)
Subject: Re: Looking for a Rose
Organization: AT&T
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1993 03:20:09 GMT

On the subject of Pickering nursery, I recall ordering their catalogue
a few years ago, and finding that it was a better illustrated more complete
listing of antique roses than I  could find in any book at my library.
Unfortunately, I loaned the catalogue to a friend and it never returned.
Thanks for reminding me about Pickering.  I will send off for another
catalogue.

Dave Daulton, Columbus, Ohio
From: bmoon@eis.calstate.edu (Bruce A. Moon)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Care and Feeding of Apple Trees
Date: 22 Jan 93 14:01:06 GMT
Organization: Calif State Univ/Electronic Information Services

There are a number of possibilities for your wormy apples. You must
dormant spray them two or three times; around here they tell us
Thanksgiving, Christmas and Valentine's Day. Pests like the codling moth
need to be caught in the early stages; if you have nothing against
spraying, wait until the blossoms start to drop and spray diazanon. They
recommend doing it at two-week intervals three times. I only sprayed once
and the yield went up to about 50%. If you don't like spraying and have
money, you can buy plastic red apples and coat them with sticky stuff. The
moths go to the apple and stick to it. The apples were originally
developed for farmers who put them on every ten or so trees to figure out
when to spray. 
	Actually, with only two trees the plastic apples might be
economical. I don't know.
Bruce Moon
Rio Linda, CA
From: den0@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (DEAN E. NELSON)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: greenhouse plans
Date: 27 Jan 93 23:56:08 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

In article <1993Jan25.205613.11483@informix.com>,
stevek@providence (Steven Klitzing) writes:
>Where can I get hold of some plans for building my own greenhouse?  What
>companies can I contact who either sell plans or materials for building
>greenhouses?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Steve
>

I tried to send this via e-mail, but the host providence was unknown, because
no domain is appended.

I have information from two companies that manufacture kits.

Pipe Engineering Corp.
353 Atlantic Ave.
Clayton, NJ  08312
609-881-5880

Fox Hill Farm
20 Lawrence St.
Rockville, CT  06066
203-875-6676

Another source of greenhouse supplies is

Schaefer Supply
1-800-800-0042
When you call they will ask you where you got the number.  I got
it out of the Lancaster Farming weekly newspaper here in PA.

Hope this helps...


Dean



-- 
Dean E. Nelson  den0@lehigh.edu  (Internet)
(215)-758-4988  (That is d-e-n-zero, not the letter O)
From: lange@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com (Alex Lange)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Info Request: Worms for Composting
Date: 25 Jan 93 20:51:56 GMT
Article-I.D.: iscnvx.1993Jan25.205156.19922
Reply-To: lange@lmsc.lockheed.com
Distribution: usa
Organization: Lockheed Missiles & Space, Sunnyvale CA USA
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4

I'm sorry but I missed the thread about vermiculture.  Would some kind
soul please e-mail the name (or names) of sources for the little
beasties, preferably in California?

Thanks very much, sorry to be a pest!

Alex Lange
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: kjp@well.sf.ca.us (Karen Paulsell)
Subject: Re: a question about seeds
Organization: Whole Earth 'Lectronic Link
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 18:15:52 GMT

I don't think you need to worry about seeds and crossing state borders.
If you look at most plant catalogs, in fact, they sell seeds across
international borders, even, but often not plants or bulbs.

I crossed the California border with over 2 dozen house plants in
my van. They confiscated my asparagus fern (they are closely 
related to the food-variety asparagus) but let the rest of the
collection across, no problem. I just had to assure them that the
plants were grown in purchased potting soil, not in dirt that I
had dug from my yard, or whatever. (I told them I was coming from
NYC, and where could one even *find* any ground not covered by
concrete.) I may have been joking a bit, but I wasn't lying, and 
I would never try to violate these restrictions. I have too much
respect for the potential damage that can be done by a pest that
has no natural predators!

In some collection of gardening essays I read, there was a rather
funny article for US folks who wanted to do the garden-show tour
of England, bringing back plants. Seems you can even do this, as
long as you wash *every* shred of soil from the roots (I think you
also need a permit, which takes some time to acquire). The humor
was supplied by comments on how inappropriate it was to wash any
amount of soil down the pipes of the inadequate plumbing of English
hotels, and the image of folks, bags packed, ready to go to the
airport, last task to be performed is getting the plants ready to
travel, sloshing their plants about and packing them up.

So save those seeds!
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: london@sunSITE.unc.edu (Larry London)
Subject: Re: Moss culture
Organization: University of North Carolina, Chapel Hill
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 19:49:28 GMT

In article <00967290.46FAD860.13329@shire.ac.arknet.edu> kw0426@shire.ac.arknet.edu writes:
>Hello!
>This is:  kw0426@shire.ac.arknet.edu
>I am interested in any information anyone might have on the subject
>of moss culture.  I am interested not only in mosses, but in all 
>non-vascular plants.  I am in need of tips for growing and maintaining
>these plants, and tips for culturing tissues from these plants
>(what Agar should I use?  What recipe?)
>If anyone wishes to send me tips, or could point me in the direction
>for more information, I would be most grateful!
>Thanks for your time--
>--Ken kw0426@shire.ac.arknet.edu

Article 4069 (15 more) in rec.gardens:
From: Bob.Batson@kcufgat.fidonet.org (Bob Batson)
Subject: Re: Mail Order Sources of Mosses
Date: 7 Oct 91 19:23:17 GMT

 Reply-to: bob.batson@p5.f304.n280.z1.fidonet.org
 krogers@javelin.sim.es.com (Keith Rogers) writes:

 >OK, here's one I've *never* seen in this group in the 4 years I've
 >been following it.  I am looking for a place to mail order moss
 >spores.  Actually, any bryophytes would be of interest.  I'm willing
 >to look at the "club mosses" (Lycophytes) too.  Are there any of you
 >actually warped enough to help me out on this?

 According to _Gardening_by_Mail_, 3rd edition (ISBN
 0-395-52280-3) by Barbara J. Barton, there are three mail
 order sources for moss PLANTS (soory, no spores)in North
 America. They are as follows:
 
 ----------------------------------------------------------
 ALLGROVE FARM
 P.O. Box 459
 Wilmington, MA 01887
 (508) 658-4869                         CATALOG - $.50
 
 They offer a selection of carnivorous and "woodsy"
 terrarium plants. They have a $15 minimum order and mail
 plants between October 1 to April 30.
 
 ----------------------------------------------------------
 KARTUZ GREENHOUSES
 1408 W. Magnolia
 Vista, CA 92083
 (619) 941-3613                         CATALOG - $2 (deduct.)
 
 Their catalog is considered a collectors' dream. They
 offer flowering plants for the home, greenhouse and
 outside in warm areas -- begonias, gesneriads and African
 violets and many other rare flowering plants and vines --
 all very well described. They have a $15 minimum order and
 mail plants during the Winter.
 
 ----------------------------------------------------------
 ORCHID GARDENS
 2332 - 139th Avenue N.W.
 Andover, MN 55304
 (612) 755-0205                         CATALOG - $.50
 
 Their catalog is a collectors' list of wildflowers and
 hardy ferns; a good selection with good descriptions and
 concise cultural notes. Most plants are native to northern
 Minnesota, including native orchids, violets, ferns,
 vines, club mosses, and a few trees and shrubs. They mail
 their plants between April 1 to May 31 and between August
 1 to October 31.
 
 **********************************************************
 Bob Batson
 --bob.batson@p5.f304.n280.z1.fidonet.org
  * Origin: From the back forty in Kansas, USA (1:280/304.5)
From: bulwinkl@stein.u.washington.edu (In Cognito)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Bonsai, and germinating tropicals
Date: 28 Jan 1993 08:29:53 GMT
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
NNTP-Posting-Host: stein.u.washington.edu
Summary: When to train bonsai, and germinating macademias
Keywords: Bonsai, tropicals, macademias

Here in Seattle it was 19 degrees at 7:30am a few weeks ago.
But now it's 45oF in the morning, and my oak seedling (in a
cool room indoors) has put on a few new leaves.

I've never trained bonsai before, but understand I should do
it at the end of the winter.  We just got this freak early
spring, and now I don't know but that it might not stay.
Haven't lived in Seattle long enough to know if it'll freeze
again.

Do I go ahead and train the bonsai seedlings as soon as
possible?  Will it hurt the oak if I trim off the twigs with
the new leaves/ trim new root growth?  Should I put the
seedlings back outside now, and take them in if it freezes
again?  These seedlings are California natives; so used to
slightly warmer weather.  (Two oaks and madrone are indoors.
A spruce and maple - from washington - are outdoors.)
Perhaps I should leave them outside a few days before
training them?

Second question: On impulse I bought a few macademias that
were sold as seeds.  They are supposed to be kept in 80 degree
water to germinate.  I kept the bowl of spagnum and water
warm by putting it inside a cupboard, covering it with a
white plastic bag and shining a light on it.  Used a thermometer
to regulate the temperature.  Only put one of the seeds in,
and that seed didn't sprout in the 3+ months I kept it in the
warm water.  Any advice to increase my chances for the other
two seeds?  BTW, I started the seed in mid-August.

Bonus question: I have a tiny Mexi-Bell Pepper seedling that
hasn't grown at all in months.  Will it start to grow when
the days get longer (it's 65 degrees where I keep it now),
or will it end up staying stunted and just croak without
doing anything interesting?  I'm not used to trying to grow
tropicals indoors in a cold winter climate, but I have a
couple plants (azalea, xmas cactus) that have been blooming
like crazy for months.  (Also used to be able to grow orchids
and even get them to bloom sometimes.  ;-)

Thanks fellow plant fans!
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Miniature Roses
From: strauss@unca.edu
Date: 23 Jan 93 10:07:07 -0500
Organization: University of North Carolina at Asheville

Does anyone have experience growing miniature Roses indoors (at least indoors
in the winter)?  I'd be especially interested in anything "unusual" that the
usual books might have overlooked.
Please respond, if possible, directly:
strauss@uncavx.unca.edu

Bob Strauss
Asheville, NC [USA]
From: loftis@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Kirk Loftis)
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 15:55:40 GMT
Subject: Re: Clay soil and fruit trees
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.gardens

/ hpcc01:rec.gardens / bmoon@eis.calstate.edu (Bruce A. Moon) / 12:06 pm  Jan 20, 1993 /
We just moved and left behind a healthy 12-year old cherry growing in
heavy clay soil. It was at the back of our yard which was higher than our
neighbors. Cherry doesn't tolerate being wet.
 I'm in a dilemna at my new
house-- the rains are so heavy this year it is hard to evaluate the sites. 
Here are some thoughts I've had:
1. Bring in soil and plant it in a raised bed. This makes it so you have
to treat it as container grown.
2. Plant on a slope that drains.
3. Put in a French-drain (Dig down a few feet away from the roots and put
in gravel so water drains off.
	You might think that amending the hole with compost might be the
answer. Research, however, show that the plant acts like a potted plant
when it reaches the heavier soil. 
	Except for Stella and Lapins, you need two cherries for fruit. I
believe these are both a little more tolerant of heavy soils.
----------

The ground that I planted on is a good slope, so much that I have to
worry about eroison.  The grass is barely coming up, there has been so
much rain that it is never sunny enough to germante the grass (yes, I
know it is late to plant grass).  I dug a hole deeper and wider than all
the fruit trees, then I added in soil/compost mixture from the store
with a bit of the soil that was from the yard.  This might make it
behave like a container plant, I will have to think about that one.

The Cherry I have is a Stella, I might still plant another Cherry (Bing
and hope the neighbors have the other trees that I need).

I have a question about distance between trees.  I have planting about
5-6 feet from the fence and about 8 feet between each tree.  Is this too
far apart?  I wanted the tree to be fully in my yard, not overhanging in
the neighbors yard (I will prune the tree on that side to prevent this).
Most of my trees are semi-dwarf, I hope that when they are grown that 
they fill in and cause a hedge effect about the fence line and above.
In other words, block the neighbors view with a "tree hedge".  Does the
distance above sound like this will work?

Another note on the yard.  Yes it has a good slope (it drops about a
foot for every 50 feet).  One side of my yard has a drainage gutter
(cement) and all along the back of the house has a drainage gutter that
goes down a "gutter hole" to the city sewer system.  As I mentioned in a
previous post, we are about 5 feet higher than the neighbor, this
drainage gutter prevents the water from flowing in the neighbors yard
and flooding them.  I guess my question/point, is this enough drainage
for the trees?  I think it is....      

I might go buy some more bare root trees this weekend, happy gardening.

Kirk



Organization: Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 12:11:11 -0500 
From: Cindy_Cosic@transarc.com
Subject: Plant suggestions for shady area with acid soil?

Hi,

	My turn to ask for plant suggestions, I guess.  I'm pretty new
at gardening -- bought a house last year and had my first veggie garden
since I was a little kid.  I loved it!  I've never had a flower garden,
though, and I'm not quite sure where to start.

	What flowers can I use to brighten up an area that is now an
ugly mix of ivy and bare spots, about 8' square?  (This'll take my mind
off of winter!)  The area is fairly shady, because of a garage wall on
its south edge, and probably has acid soil.  I haven't tested the soil
yet, but late this fall I had a precariously leaning hemlock removed
from there, and there is still some kind of pine tree on the north edge
of the area.

Thanks for any suggestions!
Cindy

p.s. I live in Pittsburgh PA, which is zone 5/6ish, depending on which
map I look at.