HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: kayo@sequent.com (Kayo Parsons-Korn)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: "sludge" or biosolids
Date: 23 Jul 92 21:33:13 GMT
Article-I.D.: sequent.1992Jul23.213313.15061
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems Inc.

In article <1992Jul9.183341.25722@SSD.intel.com> manual@ssd.intel.com (Tech PubsManual) writes:
>I'm hoping to learn more about bio-solids or sludge
>as it pertains to gardening or farming.
>
>Our small community is currently "engaged" in conflict
>with the United Sewerage Agency in Oregon. This agency
>manages the waste treatment and also the storage of the
>solids left behind once the waste water has been treated.
>They claim that the biosolids are much sought after by
>farmers and gardeners. They claim the nutrient value
>of this stuff is full of phosphorus and nitrogen. True?
>
>Anyone out there familiar with this?
>
>Thanks in advance!
>
>-erin sunahara
>
>ps: the conflict is over putting a 4-story tall storage facility
>in our rural setting "deemed" scenic and zoned EFU (exclusive farm use).
>who wants "sludge" as a neighbor?

Ask Unified Sewerage to give you the full story. This stuff cannot be
used by home gardeners or by farmers growing food crops. The majority
of it is used by landscapers and nurseries growing landscape plants.
They also will not let a farmer apply it more than once in a five year
period. But, they won't tell you the levels or types of heavy metals
in the stuff. Don't trust USA or the county, they'll never give you the
straight story.

Kayo Parsons-Korn
From: SUSAN.A..BOHN@OFFICE.WANG.COM ("Susan Bohn")
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Flea Control - BOOK
Date: 27 Jul 92 22:42:22 GMT
Organization: Mail to News Gateway at Wang Labs

Take a look at "Common Sense Pest Control" (author's name unremembered).  I
picked this one up this year and find myself browsing throughout learning all
kinds of stuff.  It's HUGE, and covers practically any indoor/outdoor pest you
can imagine... fleas, ants, cockroaches, poison ivy, dust mites, even body
lice!

FIRST, he tells you what the potential "pest" is actually doing... and you may
find that the little critter making a few holes around the edges of your lawn
may in fact be eating soil grubs all night long.  Then if you still feel you
need to get rid of the creature, a selection of methods is laid out, starting
with avoidance/deterrance, then absolutely least toxic, and escalating all
the way to totally ballistic.  But the author makes sure that you understand
how each method works, what the risks are, potential for any unpleasant side
effects, amount of work involved.  Definitely steers you towards the low end!

I like the attempt to promote some learning rather than simply provide dosages
for mass executions.

I believe I saw this book reviewed in the latest Popular Mechanics (issue
that arrived last week).  Sells for about $39.

Susan
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: dadams@cray.com (David Adams)
Subject: Re: early blight on tomatoes?
Reply-To: dadams@cray.com
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 23 Jul 92 11:52:43 CDT

In article 6019@newstand.syr.edu, jareed@rodan.acs.syr.edu (Judith Ann Reed) writes:
>  What can I do about early blight (yellowing leaves, w/ small black spots, 
>  that turn brown and die) that has returned from last year to haunt me?
>  Have some chemical from farm store that will supposedly kill it, but sounds 
>  as if it will also kill me and my family - instructions advise masks,
>  protective clothing, gloves, etc. - true and necessary?
> 


This is what I was told about blight.  (I don't have the instruction
sheet with me, so I am not sure we are talking about the same disease,
but I think we are.)


The blight is in the soil and splashes onto the lower leaves of the
tomato when it rains.  As the season progresses it spreads up the 
plant causing dark spots or soft spots on the fruits.

To prevent this use:

	1) black plastic mulch.  This will keep the rain from 
	splasing the blight (fungus?) onto the plant.

	2) (since you have a small amount of earth exposed anyway)
	Remove the bottom 6" to 12" of leaves from each tomato
	plant.  This makes it harder for any splashes to reach
	the lower leaves and infect the plant.

Studies at the University of Minnesota supposedly are supposed to confirm
that these two techinques will prevent this blight.


p.s.  My tomatoes are setting some fruit now.  (Horray!)

---
--David C. Adams  Statistician  Cray Research Inc.  dadams@cray.com
___________________________________________________________________
       If you have a watch, you always know what time it is.
            If you have two, you're never quite sure.
From: brett@dvorak.amd.com (Brett Stewart)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Rabbit!
Summary: How do you catch them?
Date: 24 Jul 92 15:34:51 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc.; Austin, Texas

I had been wondering what manner of insect pest had been defoliating
some of my vegetables and annuals.  I could not find any clear description
of a pest for the kinds of damage I observed, nor could I see the critters
no matter how carefully or late I tried to sneak up on them.

Then, early this AM, here in Texan suburbia, I stepped out and caught
the villian in the act.  A big rabbit!  He quickly hopped away.

Now, I dont want to do any more elaborate fencing, so I am inclined
to try to catch this fellow and carry him safely away to forage in
the wilds.  Any recommendations about trapping rabbits?
-- 
Brett Stewart
Advanced Micro Devices, Inc.           +1 512 462 5101 FAX
5900 E. Ben White Blvd MS526           +1 512 462 4336 Telephone
Austin, Texas 78741      USA           Brett.Stewart@AMD.com
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: billmc@microsoft.com (Bill Mcjohn)
Subject: Re: short daisies needed
Date: 27 Jul 92 17:39:25 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corporation

In article <13578@mindlink.bc.ca> Christine_Code@mindlink.bc.ca 
(Christine Code) writes (loosely paraphrased):

   ... that her tall daisies flop, and she'd like to find a 
   shorter variety.

If you're talking about shasta daisies (big white daisies with
yellow centers), yes there are shorter cultivars available.
I think I've seen Snow Lady, Snow Princess, and Little Miss
Muffet.  You can probably find them at a good local nursery;
if not, they're certainly available through catalogs.

You might also try pinching your tall daisies.  When the plant 
starts upward growth in Spring, let it get about knee-high and then 
get out the shears and chop it back to about half its height.  (Or, 
less drastically, just cut a couple of inches off each stalk.)  
Daisies will respond to this treatment by sending up more shoots, 
making the plant much bushier.  The end result is more (but 
possibly smaller) flowers on a shorter, bushier plant.  It may 
also begin blooming later than it would've if you hadn't pinched it.

Bill McJohn
billmc@microsoft
From: ceb@dbrus.Unify.Com (Caroline E. Bryan)
Subject: Re: Circles of 'shrooms ?
Organization: /usr/lib/news/organization
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 92 17:19:12 GMT

In article <6829@bigbird.hri.com.hri.com> blamb@rodan.hri.com (Bill Lambert) writes:
>
>I am not much of a gardener, but some day I hope to do better as
>I just moved into a house where someone spent a lot of care on the
>grounds a few years ago, but the most recent owners evidently
>neglected the garden for 3 or 4 years or so.
>
>I have the strangest thing on my lawn, and I wonder if anyone
>can tell me how or why it happened. There's an almost perfect
>circle of wild mushrooms, around 15ft diameter in one area.
>I say almost perfect, because the circle is only about 3/4
>complete at this time. The mushroom growth is thick enough to
>be almost contiguous around the circle, but else where there
>are only a few mushrooms scattered about on the property.

Neat-o - a fairy ring!  It happens to mark the circle where the Little People
dance at night.

Seriously, mushroom will start growing at a certain point.  If conditions are
right, as they seem to be in your lawn, the mushroom will multiply outward in
a circle, the older parts dieing in the middle.  Hence the ring.  Its inter-
ruption would be due to a change in the immediate environment that is discour-
aging the mushroom from expanding outward in that area.  If your ring is 15
feet across the gardeners among the previous owners would seem to have liked
it and nurtured it -- I don't think a ring can form and grow to that size in
only 3-4 years.


Carrie		ceb@rechenau.unify.com	x6244
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------------+
|    For every vision there is an equal and opposite revision.   -- Anon.     |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------------+
From: andrews@skyfox.usask.ca
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Horticultural information via telnet
Date: 27 Jul 92 22:39:18 GMT
Organization: University of Saskatchewan

There is now a hortinfo selection available when you telnet to:

genius@usask.ca
login: genius  [lower case and no password required]

Genius is an experimental _hypertext like_  information system at the
University of Saskatchewan.  Much of the information will be well
adapted to the Northern Canadian Prairies and Northern Prairie States.
Some of the information covers indoor plants and should be universal.

This information is also available on a bulletin board (306)966-8013.
That phone is voice answered 8:30am-4:30pm Central Standard Time - note
that Saskatchewan does not go on daylight savings :(  The Horticulture
bulletin board at UofS also carries these echo groups:

Home-n-garden
Sust-Ag
Nutrition

Inquire about the availability of these echos at your local fidonet
boards.

Happy Gardening,
Dan Andrews
From: br105@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey A. Del Col)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: "Gelder Roses" ID?
Date: 26 Jul 92 15:13:24 GMT
Reply-To: br105@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey A. Del Col)
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)


Lately I have been reading parts of Thomas Jefferson's garden journals
and came across a reference to "gelder" roses.  I am not able to find 
anything like this term in my rose reference works.  Can anyone on the
net help on this?  I assume it refers to a gold or yellow color.  BTW I have
ordered a copy of THOMAS JEFFERSON'S FLOWER GARDEN AT MONTICELLO, so maybe
that will provide the solution, but maybe a reader of this newsgroup can
beat the USPS's killer snail to the answer. (Followers of Pat Oliphant's
editorial cartoons should recognize the Killer Snail, his emblem for 
the Postal Service.  It is not a garden pest. ;-)

J. Del Col
-- 
Jeff Del Col      *       "I'm never lonely,...living in my heavily      
A-B College       *   populated solitude, a harum-scarum of infinity        
Philippi, WV      *   and eternity, and Infinity and Eternity seem to          
                  *   take a liking to the likes of me." Bohumil Hrabal.       
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: jayantr@bnr.ca (Jayant Ragde)
Subject: Re: Japanese Beetles everywhere
Keywords: beetle feast
Reply-To: jayantr@bnr.ca
Organization: BNR, Inc., Atlanta
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 92 19:01:22 GMT

In article <l6tepsINN93e@utkcs2.cs.utk.edu>, langston@langston.cs.utk.edu (Mike Langston) writes:
|> 
|> strictly a personal choice, natch -- many who prefer flowers
|> to food crops try to plant flowers not favored by the dreaded
|> beetle (don't even think about growing roses unless you *really*
|> love roses and are prepared to wage full-scale chemical warfare!)
|> 

	Heard about this technique on one of the gardening shows on TV
and decided to try this out to salvage my rose bushes and have been
quite pleased with the results.  The TV show (don't remember which
one) said that the Japanese beetles do not like geraniums - hence
some should be planted near the plants you want to protect.
I have planted geraniums in my rose beds - whenever the geraniums
thrive, fewer japanese beetles bother my rose plants - the rose
plants actually escape almost any damage.  I don't know if this is
coincidence or the geraniums actually work!  But I use no pesticide
to fight the beetles and seem to survive!  Maybe others could try
this - at worst you will have some additional flowers (-:


Happy gardening,

Jayant

-----------------------------------------------
Jayant V.Ragde                   jayantr@bnr.ca
B.N.R., Inc.                     (404)246-2407
5555 Spalding Drive
Norcross, GA 30092
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: soley@trooa.enet.dec.com (Norman Soley)
Subject: Marigolds/Calendula
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 18:21:34 GMT


This spring we interplanted marigolds with our tomatoes because they are 
supposed to repel cutworm, seems to have worked, we lost none despite never 
getting around to putting on collars and our nieghbours all lost several. 

My wife is on this edible flower kick right now and has read that 
Calendula (sp?) which are closely related to Marigolds are edible. She has 
not been able to find any info regarding the edibility of "regular" 
marigolds. 

My question is, should Calendula have the same effect on cutworm or does 
anyone know that marigolds are edible.

Thanks 
--
    Norman Soley, Specialist, Professional Software Services, ITC District
    Digital Equipment of Canada                   soley@trooa.enet.dec.com
    Opinions expressed are mine alone  and do not reflect those of Digital 
    Equipment Corporation or my cat Marge.
From: tjp@tsdiag.ocpt.ccur.com (Tom Pinzino)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Improving clay soil
Date: 28 Jul 92 17:42:54 GMT
Organization: Concurrent Computer Corp. Oceanport NJ

In article <1992Jul27.120842.27674@icd.ab.com> bab@icd.ab.com (Brian A. Batke) writes:
>
>I'm looking for advice on how to improve our clay soil to make
>it suitable for annual/perennial/shrub beds and a vegetable garden.
> ...
>So what can we do? We're thinking maybe we can add a mixture of
>sand and peat moss. Any other ideas? 

This is good.  You need to add sand and some organic material.  (Regarding
someone's comment about sand + clay = brick, you won't have a problem as
long as you don't dig it in while the soil is wet.)   The sand improves the
drainage of the soil, and the humus improves the amount of moisture that
the soil can absorb and maintain for your plants.  

Peat moss is acidic, expensive and environmentally "incorrect".  Around
here, towns compost leaves.  The leaf compost is given away at the
recycling centers.  It is a good substitute for the peat moss in your
recipe.  An even better substitute is composted horse manure.  Composted
cow manure is good, too.   

If towns in Ohio don't compost leaves yet, you can compost on your own in
your back yard.  I am now using the composted leaves that came down last 
fall.  I kept the pile slightly moist and turned weekly during the
fall, then turned it again in April, May and June.  Through the entire
time, I would add vegetable kitchen scraps - mostly coffee grounds and
banana peals from my breakfast.  I keep the scraps in a coffee can in the
freezer until it fills up, then I thaw it and dump it.  

Even though my property is only 100' x 100', I have found a corner for the
pile.  I have been able to conceal it with an existing tree, two wood piles
- mine and my neighbor's, and some astilbe that I planted.  

Getting back on the subject of improving your soil - 1/3 clay, 1/3 sand and
1/3 humus is close to ideal, but it may not be practical.  Any amount of
sand and humus that you add will help, and you can continue to improve the
soil in future years by mulching with compost during the summer, then
digging it into the soil in the fall.  

Good luck!  It is hard work.  

Tom
-- 
Tom Pinzino					pinzino@ocpt.ccur.com
Concurrent Computer Corporation			 work: (908) 870-4208
2 Crescent Place, MS 117, Oceanport, NJ 07757	 home: (908) 389-2022
From: Jack.Honeycutt@f52.n105.z1.therose.pdx.com (Jack Honeycutt)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Gardening Software (Part 2)
Date: 20 Jul 92 23:31:12 GMT
Article-I.D.: therose.711656255.F00003

Hello Lawrence!

18 Jul 92, Lawrence London writes to All:

 LL> Shareware:
 LL> (many of these programs are available for download from the
 LL> Agricultural Library Forum BBS at the National Agricultural Library)

Can you post the telephone number for us?

Thanks.

Jack
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: sfinfroc@beta.tricity.wsu.edu (Scott H. Finfrock)
Subject: Re: "sludge" or biosolids
Organization: Washington State University Tri-Cities, Richland
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 92 04:04:56 GMT

In article <12474@inews.intel.com> pharvey@mipos3.intel.com (Paul Harvey) writes:
>In article <1992Jul24.193758.29196@serval.net.wsu.edu> 
>
>I thought the main scientific concern was the presence of heavy metals in
>unknown quantites that vary from lot to lot depending on the source of the
>sludge. These heavy metals eventually poison the soil and can get into
>plants and elsewhere in the food cycle, like us. Has the issue of heavy
>metals in sewerage sludge been solved?

I wondered about this too, but while the issue did come up it
seemed to me that the local Ag. experts did not consider it a
problem.  Maybe the crop in question (wheat) doesn't pick up the
metals.

Scott Finfrock

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: exumart@exu.ericsson.se (Martina Hughes,xt-df,0634)
Subject: Growing Oregano		
Reply-To: exumart@exu.ericsson.se
Organization: Ericsson Network Systems
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 15:11:13 GMT

Does anyone out there have experience growing Oregano!. I bought a large oregano plant about 5 months ago.  It seemed to be doing fine, watered it almost every two days, The plant seemed to be outgrowing the pot so I replanted it in the ground. Since then, the oregano leaves have turned BLack! and the plant looks like it has completely died. What is the lifetime of an Oregano plant? When the stems become too woody what should one do? The stems on my plant are very woody.  The plant is located in a sunny lo




cation.

Is there something I can do to revive my oregano?

Thanks in advance

Martina Hughes,
Dallas. TX.

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: pelli@cbnewsj.cb.att.com (carol.s.furchner)
Subject: hostas and slugs
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 16:51:46 GMT
Keywords: hostas, slugs

Two varieties of hosta had been planted in our garden when we acquired
our house, a medium sized type with uniform medium green roundish ribbed 
leaves, and a smaller type with variegated spear-like leaves, dark green at the 
edges and pale yellow in the centers.  Slugs LOVE the variegated hostas, 
and the leaves are in shreds by the end of the summer.  They sample the 
plain green hostas, but mostly leave them alone.

Are there any varieties (other than my nameless green, which I can
divide for more plants) that are known to be less attractive to slugs?  
I'd like to plant a lot more hostas of several varieties around the yard,
but the price per plant makes me reluctant to do a lot of blind 
experimentation.

Carol

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: james@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (James White)
Subject: Re: Cabbage - when to pick?
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 11:36:53 GMT
Distribution: na
Reply-To: JamesWhite@vnet.ibm.com
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM Rochester

Depends on the type of cabbage.  I grow both stonehead and flat Dutch.  The
stonehead is a smaller cabbage and gets about 3 to 5 pounds before the heads
start splitting.  The flag Dutch is a large cabbage that grows to 12 to 15 pounds.

So The answer is, any time you want but let your type of cabbage reach it's
potential.  Since I am a reactive (verses proactive) gardener, I find that I pick
my cabbage as it is beginning to split.




-- 

James White 
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: M23401@mwvm.mitre.org (Larry Kahn)
Subject: Re: Marigolds
Organization: The MITRE Corporation, McLean VA 22102
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1992 18:56:49 GMT

In article <VSUMMERS.92Jul29081032@polaris.cv.nrao.edu>
vsummers@polaris.cv.nrao.edu (Vince Summers) writes:
 
>
>     The little old-fashioned marigolds are reputed to do that, and I have
>no reason to detract from that, but the large, tall marigolds DRAW
>Japanese Beetles and aphids.
>
 
Not mine!  I guess the bugs are intimidated, at last measurement the
plants are almost 6 feet high.
From: langley@ace.acadiau.ca (WANDA LANGLEY)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Eating onion sets
Summary: help
Keywords: onions
Date: 27 Jul 92 19:19:06 GMT
Organization: Acadia University

Can anyone tell me what insect/bird/animal has an appetite for the tops off 
of onion sets.  Our onions were doing beautifully and suddenly we noticed 
that the tops were getting chewed off - some really close to the ground, 
others not so close.  It's really annoying because we had 100 onion sets and 
they were doing so well - now all but half a dozen have been ruined.  Any 
suggestions would be appreciated.  We thought of cut-worms but didn't see 
any when we checked.  Thanks.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: ggawron@comm.mot.com (Glenn Gawron)
Subject: Artificial light for IVY and DRACAENA will it work?
Organization: Motorola CSE
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 20:15:20 GMT

I work in an office with no windows and a TON of fluorescent overhead 
lights.  I just went to a local nursery and bought 3 plants to spruce the 
place up a bit.  One is a Dracaena one is a Hedra Helix Selecta (Sparkling 
Ivy "Royaltree") and another type of ivy (Type Unknown).  The Dracaena is 
getting brown leaf tips.  All are potted in clay pots.  The Ivy's are not 
showing any new growth.  The temp is about 70 - 75 degrees and quite humid.

Do I need to get a different artificial light?  (I can put one under my 
credenzas).  The current bulbs are "Cool White".

Any help would be appreciated
Glenn
+----------------------------------------------------------------------+
|Glenn Gawron                          | Internet: ggawron@comm.mot.com|
|Motorola Central Systems Engineering  |    X.400: C10836@email.mot.com|
|1301 E. Algonquin Road - IL02 Rm 0436 |    Voice: (708) 538-3756      |
|Schaumburg, Illinois. 60196 USA       |      Fax: (708) 576-5640      |
+----------------------------------------------------------------------+
From: lp@well.sf.ca.us (Lily Pond)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: transplanting grass
Date: 23 Jul 92 19:57:05 GMT
Organization: Whole Earth 'Lectronic Link


I'm moving into a house with great grass growing in the flowerbeds and none
growing in the lawn. Should I try to transplant it, or just get some sod (or
seeds?) and start over.
From: Bob.Batson@p3.f322.n280.z1.fidonet.org (Bob Batson)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: What is it and what to do about it...
Date: 27 Jul 92 19:30:26 GMT

Reply-to: bob.batson@kcufgat.fidonet.org

gtephx!schiefferr@enuucp.eax.asu.edu (Ron Schieffer) writes:

 > Not sure if this got out the first time or not (no replies!)...
 > What kind of bug is this?  
 > I have heard it called a rollie pollie, or a potato bug but am not
 > sure about what it is...

                              [TEXT DELETED]

 > 1st question:  What is it?

It's the common Pillbug (Armadillidium vulgare).

 > 2nd question:  How to get it to leave? Or is it something I should
 > not worry about?  Can I attract something else to help control it?

I sure wish I could answer this question. Pillbugs are a problem at times
up-here in Kansas City, too! If you learn of any control measures, how
about posting it here in rec.gardens?

 > Any info would be appreciated!

Read pages 596 to 598 in _Common-sense Pest Control_ by Olkowski, Daar, &
Olkowski (ISBN 0-942391-63-2).

        Bob Batson

 * Origin: From the north forty in Kansas, USA! (1:280/322.3)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: dadams@cray.com (David Adams)
Subject: black spots on basil
Reply-To: dadams@cray.com
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 27 Jul 92 15:51:48 CDT


I have been getting these black spots on my lemon and Mexican basil.
It seems to come on in cool weather.  Then when the weather warms
up the black spots dry up and wither.  

Is there any thing I can do to stop it?



---
--David C. Adams  Statistician  Cray Research Inc.  dadams@cray.com
___________________________________________________________________
       If you have a watch, you always know what time it is.
            If you have two, you're never quite sure.