HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: heff@apollo.hp.com
Subject: Repair manuals
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 14:14:26 GMT
Reply-To: heff@apollo.hp.com
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories


Anybody know a good source to order Haynes (or equivalent) 
manuals for an '83 Toyota?  I checked out JC Whitney, and
they have 'em, but only for 1.8 Corolla's (mine's an SR5).



Jeff Oesterle

================
"No, I don't know that atheists should be considered as citizens, 
nor should they be considered patriots.  This is one nation under God."
                                         - George Bush
<choke> <cough> Say WHAT?!?!?!?
================

(Disclaim, disclaim, disclaim.)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Calling F-body Suspension experts
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 9 Oct 92 19:45:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> I guess I need to find the static weight on each wheel to get an idea
-> how the weight is distributed accross the suspension. I suspect it
-> will show that more weight rests on left front and least on the right
-> rear.

 I use a set of four scales when doing chassis adjustment.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: 84 jaguar XJ6
From: dionysia@netlink.cts.com (Dionysia Marqueza)
Date: Tue, 06 Oct 92 20:20:14 PDT
Organization: NetLink Online Communications, San Diego CA

        Hi All...

        I own the aforementined car: it has 91K+ miles, and is due for 
some major work... which I plan to do myself. I would like to hear from 
other owners of Jaguar Mark III that are contemporary to mine, to trade 
notes, resources, etc.. Please send email to:

        dionysia@netlink.cts.com

        merci,

        Dio

--                    
INTERNET:  dionysia@netlink.cts.com (Dionysia Marqueza)
UUCP:   ...!ryptyde!netlink!dionysia
NetLink Online Communications * Public Access in San Diego, CA (619) 453-1115
From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: What is A.A.P.
Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1992 09:28:42 -0500

 JX> Can you tell me what is A.A.P.? It is in the carburetor or somewhere 
 JX> else?

Possibly it stands for "Auxiliary Air Pump".

 JX> What is it's function?

See other discussion concerning air pumps in this newsgroup.



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: eur@dutncp2.tn.tudelft.nl (Eur van Andel)
Subject: Re: Bad Alternator?
Organisation: TU Delft, The Netherlands
Organization: Delft University of Technology
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 15:40:01 GMT

In <Bw2vqM.A85@apollo.hp.com> heff@apollo.hp.com writes:


>All of a sudden, my "Charge" idiot light went on in my trusty old
	 						       ^^^
Old, eh? Your brushes are worn.


>s**tbox Toyota.  It's lasted through a couple of starts before
>the battery got weak, so apparently the idiot light wasn't faking
>me. (A known flaky light went on at the same time, so I thought
>both were flaky.  Now I know why they're called idiot lights.)

>If I can guarantee it's the alternator that's bad, I could
>replace it myself, but they run $75-$135 from an auto parts
>store.  How can I check it out?  Get the car started, and see if
>there's a healthy 12V on the output of the alternator?  Is there
>something behind the alternator in the system that could be bad
>and producing similar symptoms?  Also, is it bad to disconnect the
>alternator and the battery while the car's running?  (My motorcycle
>repair manual has a caution to that effect, are car alternators similar?)

Do check the + pole on your battery: it should move to 14 V when
revving your engine to 3000 rpm. It doesn't? Your generator is dead.
Worn brushes, I would say. Buy new ones for $5.



-- 
eur  eur@dutncp8.tn.tudelft.nl
--
eur  eur@dutncp8.tn.tudelft.nl
From: paul@eye.com (Paul B. Booth)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Synthetic oil cost and convenience
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 92 14:52:52 GMT
Organization: 3D/EYE, Inc.  Ithaca, NY

In article <1992Oct13.001234.17801@jhunix.hcf.jhu.edu> roskar@kavazi.uucp.jhu.edu (Tsuma Kavazi) writes:
>
>The car is a Honda Accord EX, driven 150 miles a day, 90% on
>highway at about 2800 RPMs. So far I've been using multigrade
>5W-30 (recc. by Honda), Castrol GTX brand. Changing this oil once
>a month means I do ca. 3500 miles between oil changes.
> 
>I've been considering switching to Mobil 1, and changing the oil
>every 7000 miles, to help offset higher cost, and spend less time
>under the car :-)
> 
>    Oil     Cost/Change      Filter             Monthly Cost
>1) Castrol   ( 4.40      +   4.00)    * 1 =       $ 8.40
>2) Mobil 1   (14.00      +   4.00)    *.5 =       $ 9.00
> 
>Input is greatly appreciated.
>
Look at it this way: your motor is going to generate about the same amount of
junk (dirt, metal bits, etc.) in a given # of miles, regardless of what kind
of oil's in it.  The oil is going to pick up that junk and circulate it around
your motor for as long as it's in the car.  Your oil filter will help trap
some, but certainly not all of these abrasive little goodies -- only an oil
change will remove them from your motor.

The question, then, becomes:  Do you want junk building up in your motor for
3500 miles or 7000 miles before you flush it out?  I think synthetics are
great because they _lubricate_ better, but to try to balance out the additional
cost of a synthetic by increasing intervals between oil changes is false
economy.

This opinion worth exactly what you paid for it.

-- 
Paul B. Booth  (paul@eye.com)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
3D/EYE, Inc., 2359 N. Triphammer Rd., Ithaca, NY  14850    voice: (607)257-1381
                                                             fax: (607)257-7335
From: sontakke@helix.enet.dec.com (Vikas Sontakke)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Subaru fails emissions -- followup
Date: 7 Oct 92 16:06:34 GMT
Article-I.D.: engage.1992Oct7.150934.11950
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation


In article <1992Oct07.012539.35673@lobo.rmhs.colorado.edu>, seanr@lobo.rmhs.colorado.edu (Sean Reifschneider) writes...
> 
>With the SplitFires in there, it runs MUCH better.  It used to
          ^^^^^^^^^^

Who makes them?  Do they make it for different cars?  I have checked few parts
store in my area but they could not help me.  A mail order number would be
wonderful.

Thanks,
Vikas Sontakke		Digital Equipment Corporation, Maynard MA.
Internet:		sontakke@helix.enet.dec.com
    uucp:		{decvax,ucbvax,allegra}!decwrl!helix.enet!sontakke
			sontakke%helix.enet@decwrl.dec.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
From: Todd O'Connor <todd_oconnor@taligent.com>
Subject: Re: Lifting a JEEP Wrangler?
X-Date: Tue, 13 Oct 92 10:15:02 GMT
Organization: Taligent, Inc.
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d3
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 17:14:51 GMT

Lifting a Jeep more than 4"!!  You have to be kidding me!! All I can figure is the
Jeep is going on the show circuit where bigger is better and not on trails where
real Jeeps drive.

I have done a lot of research on lifting Jeeps and finally decided on the Rancho
2.5" kit for my '89 Wrangler.  It works great!!  There are no "kits" to place the
springs on top of the axles.  You either weld new spring pads yourself or buy axles
that were designed that way.  Before you get any ideas, just flipping over your
current axles won't work.  

Correct me if I'm wrong but your rear drive shaft is not telescoping.  If it's like
mine it will be around 13.25" long.  This isn't very long and any lift approaching
4" will put severe wear on your U-Joints.  Even with the Rancho kit I have 2.5
degree shims on the rear axle and have lowered the transmission/transfer case to
eliminate vibrations.  I've heard both sides of the argument about Pitman arms on
these Jeeps and have installed one on mine.

The bottom line is what are you going to use your Jeep for?  If you want aesthetics
and the macho truck look to pick up chicks then go for the huge lift and 44" Gumbo
Monster Mudders.  If you want a functional Jeep to go rock crawling with use no
more then 2.5" of lift and 33" tires.  Even then the BF Goodrich 33" tires come in
9.5" and 12.5" widths.  Personally, because of the way the Wranglers are set up, I
am using the 33x9.50.  Anything wider and you'll run into fender/tire interference.
 If you need more ground clearance consider the 34x9.50 Super Swamper (has a gnarly
look too).

-Todd O'Connor
todd_oconnor@Taligent.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Radials on '60s era cars?
From: james@koko.csustan.edu (Jonas Grumpy)
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 92 18:53:34 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: CSU Stanislaus

In article <wepOTR200WB25bfisx@andrew.cmu.edu> rh2y+@andrew.cmu.edu (Russell E. Hoffman, II) writes:
>While we're on the subject of radials on 60's cars... My brother has a
>69 Chevelle 2door that he usually runs pretty big meats on (60 series,
>about 12 or 13" of tread, 14" rims), but when we were working on my
>Camaro, which had radials on when we bought it (Eagle GT's), my brother
>thought he'd try out the radials on his Chevelle. Well, the handling
>improved like a zillion percent, and now he's wondering if he can get a
>set of big meats in radial. Anybody know if such animals exist? And
>would the wide radials still be a noticeable improvement in handling?
>
>
>Thanks,

Pirelli makes a P7 in 345 35 VR 15. If this aint wide enough then nothing
else will be. This was the same tire found on the back of 83- Lamborghini
Countach. They are only about $270 each. You should see some of the 
sizes Pirelli makes. Have you ever seen 295/35ZR19???? What on earth
could possibly use this size except a MBZ600SL!
-- 
C MYSIG  ASIG4U 1RADSIG 2BADSIG SIG U 2     U R SIG   1SIGDOG    ADOTSIG
 				The above advice is not to be taken seriously!

Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:14004 rec.autos:23981
From: bense@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ron Bense)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
Subject: Timing belts revisted (Re: Ford Escort Problems)
Date: 14 Oct 92 19:44:41 GMT
Reply-To: bense@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ronald Bense)
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.autos, owen@Software.Mitel.COM (Blake Owen) writes:

>I've personally only heard of the belts breaking in Fords
>and Toyotas and someone on the net claimed Honda belts also break. Do
>GM and Chrysler use a different system or type of belt?  Any comments?

Belts do break in Hondas, and in Subarus, Nissans, and any other car
that uses them. Others have timing chains, and guess what? These can
break, too, but usually this is after many more miles, which the older
engines which used them generally never saw. So why did they switch
to belts? Economy, ease of installation (for the factory), and less
noise. The belts are also easier to change than chains.

*All* timing belts should be changed at 60k. It is true that you might
have heard of someone going 130k or more on one belt, but these are
more exceptions than the rule. Generally they break more around the
80k mark, as I can personally attest to of the three that did so in
the last eight months at 75k, 78k, and 96k. (The 96k was a Toyota Celica
with a low-horse-power engine, which seems to be easy on belts, and
was driven primarily on the highway) Oh, and a word of warning to those
with a 2.0L Eclipse/Talon/Laser engine, turbo or non. These have been
reported to break as early as 20k, depending on your driving habits,
due to an idler pulley that is a bit too small and creates extra tension
in the belt.

Ron                          Think about this one (seen on a bumper sticker):
			     The road to hell is bumper-to-bumper
			     Make a U-turn to God.
The irony is priceless.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,sci.chem.eng
From: hasch@jhunix.hcf.jhu.edu (Tsuma Kavazi)
Subject: Methanol in gas, detergent fuels
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Reply-To: roskar@kavazi.uucp.jhu.edu (Tsuma Kavazi)
Organization: Acme Money Launderers, Inc.
     
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 00:10:09 GMT




 
This could be an interesting FAQ:
 
Today I heard that some gas refiners are adding up to 10% METHANOL to
their gasolines. Is that legal?
 
For example, Atlantic (formerly ARCO), gets the methanol from their
chemical processing industry. BMW (autos) has recommended against the
use of methanol in their cars because it may damage parts in the
fuel/emissions lines.
 
I was aware that ethanol-added gases are bad for cars NOT designed to
run on gasohol, but why is methanol bad?
 
BMW also runs a specific test to see if a particular brand of gasoline
passes their detergent test. Consumer reports published a list of
gasolines that pass this test about two years ago. Do any BMW owners
have an updated list?
From: dye@i88.isc.com (Ken R. Dye )
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Live axle vs. IRS
Date: 13 Oct 92 18:44:05 GMT
Article-I.D.: i88.1992Oct13.184405.25802
Organization: INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation, Naperville, IL

In article <26284@oasys.dt.navy.mil> kiviat@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Brian Kiviat) writes:
>In rec.autos.tech, rodder@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Jon D. Rodder) writes:
>>How much more would you be willing to pay for a Camaro with IRS?  How
>>many other people would be willing to pay a few thousand extra for it?
>
>If it costs GM a few thousand dollars to put IRS on a cars, I know why the
>Detroit car manufacturers are going down the toilet.

	Ford isn't that bad: We just bought a thunderbird sport; 5.0 V8,
leather interior, moonroof, ABS, LSD, multilink IRS/RWD...for 20K.
Current F-bodies sticker from 16K-25K.

--Ken
-- 
Ken R. Dye				an optimist is a guy		 |
Interactive Systems Corp., Chicago	that has never had		 | 
(800) LAI-UNIX x341			much experience			 |
dye@i88.isc.comm						archy	 |
From: welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Radials on '60s era cars?
Date: 9 Oct 92 21:44:23 GMT
Organization: New York State Institute for Sebastian Cabot Studies

In article <1992Oct08.161847.26172@i88.isc.com> dye@i88.isc.com (Ken R. Dye ) writes:
>	No flames from bias ply lovers, please.  I know they can
>be made to work very well (Hoosiers, MickyT, etc.) but I am talking
>about passenger car tires here, not autocross/roadrace slicks.

quite; in the specialized area of competition tires, there are sound
reasons to run bias ply tires for specific applications; for passenger
cars on the street, bias ply tires have been obsolete for more than
20 years.

richard
-- 
richard welty                            518-393-7228
welty@cabot.balltown.cma.com
  ``if you can read this, mario, you're too close''
    -- bumper sticker seen on a CART safety truck
From: damong@bigwpi.WPI.EDU (Damon Francis Gentile)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: AIR COOLED
Date: 7 Oct 1992 22:12:39 GMT
Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute
NNTP-Posting-Host: bigwpi.wpi.edu

In article <81i0RB1w164w@admiral.uucp> serpent@admiral.uucp (Eric Lanier) writes:
>  Greets, does this group reach anybody in Germany?  I'm looking for info
>about high performance products for VW type-4 engines to mainly go into a
>Beetle.

well dude, i'd try rec.autos.vw for a start....

Damon
damong@wpi.wpi.edu


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bill@iron.tandem.com (norcott_bill@tandem.com)
Subject: Re: Radiator flushing
Keywords: Prestone's "Super Flush"
Reply-To: norcott_bill@tandem.com  (Bill Norcott)
Organization: Tandem Computers, Inc.
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 17:39:11 GMT

I changed my coolant last week and flushed it with Super Flush.  
First I drained the coolant and flushed with water until the water
ran clear.  Then I added the Super Flush, ran the engine 10 minutes,
etc. as listed in the instructions.  When I drained out the water 
with Super Flush, it was completely brown so it looks as if the stuff
took out a lot of rust, etc. from the radiator.

-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------|
Bill Norcott			GUARDIAN POSIX project
Tandem Computers, Inc.		
10600 N. Tantau Avenue		PHONE:  (408) 285-3253
Cupertino, CA   95014		EMAIL: norcott_bill@tandem.com


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: finnegan@invader.navo.navy.mil (Kenneth Finnegan)
Subject: Unidirectional Wheels
Nntp-Posting-Host-[nntpd-23685]: invader.navo.navy.mil
Reply-To: finnegan@navo.navy.mil
Organization: Grumman Data Systems	
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 19:43:15 GMT

I have a set of 15" ARE Stingray model alloy wheels on
my GLI.  The wheels are unidirectional, and are stamped
LEFT and RIGHT.  The tires, however, are normal, ie there
is no distinction between left and right.

Now, for cosmetic reasons, I would like to swap the wheels
to the opposite sides.  The directional pattern looks better
IMHO going opposite of what ARE says is correct.  I'm wondering
if there is any reason related to the design of the wheels why
I shouldn't be able to do this.  I mean, I know they will fit,
I'm just concerned that the wheels were designed to function
structurally in primarily one direction.

Anyone have any brilliant insights?

Thanks,

Kenneth
finnegan@navo.navy.mil
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
From: RZAA80@email.sps.mot.com (Jim Chott)
Subject: Re: Lifting a JEEP Wrangler?
Organization: Motorola SPS
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 22:56:28 GMT

In article <Bvv126.C4M@news.larc.nasa.gov>, DEVILBISS@OCTAVE.LARC.NASA.GOV (Zaphod Beeblebrox) writes:
> 
>  I am looking into lifting my 1988 JEEP Wrangler.  My question is, 
> of the possible methods, which is the best in terms of performance 
> versus cost.  My funds are extremely limited (read . . . still 
> making payments) so low cost is important.  
> 
> 1.  Add a leaf.
> 2.  Longer spring shackles.
> 3.  Body lifts.
> 4.  Stiffer shocks.
> 5.  Any others?
> 
> What are some of the advantages and disadvantages of these methods.  
> Thanks . . . Dave
> 
1. Add a leaf:  Not much lift is available with this and it stiffens the ride.

2. Longer shackles:  Retains stock ride, and inexpensive.  May  change 
                     driveline angles somewhat.

3.  Body lifts:  Probably the cheapest, not always easy to install, does not
                 raise the frame.  Good if all you want is clearance for
                 larger tires.

4. Stiffer shocks:  Does not affect ride height, only damps motion quicker.
                    Soft shocks give a smoother ride if adequate travel exists.

5. Springs:  Best type of lift but expensive.

6. Blocks:  Very inexpensive but won't work with the springs under the axles
            like on the Jeep.  Causes more spring wrap-up under acceleration.

Jim
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:14066 rec.autos:24073
From: bill@hood.tandem.com (norcott_bill@tandem.com)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
Subject: Re: Ford Escort Problems
Date: 15 Oct 92 18:03:47 GMT
Reply-To: norcott_bill@tandem.com (Bill Norcott)
Organization: Tandem Computers, Inc.

In article <13234@traffic>, owen@Software.Mitel.COM (Blake Owen) writes:
|> I've personally only heard of the belts breaking in Fords
|> and Toyotas and someone on the net claimed Honda belts also break. Do
|> GM and Chrysler use a different system or type of belt?  Any comments?

Timing belts break just like any other belt and what make of car it
is makes no difference.  None of the modern Ford engine designs result
in engine damage if the timing belt breaks.  Hondas and Nissans self-
destruct if the belt breaks.  Most Toyotas are safe when the belt 
breaks.  Overhead cam engines use belts.  American overhead valve
pushrod style engines use a timing chain, not a belt.  Timing chains
are a whole lot more durable than belts .
   
-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------|
Bill Norcott			GUARDIAN POSIX project
Tandem Computers, Inc.		
10600 N. Tantau Avenue		PHONE:  (408) 285-3253
Cupertino, CA   95014		EMAIL: norcott_bill@tandem.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Threshold braking (was Re: "tank" superchargers)
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 12 Oct 92 11:18:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> in other words, i now understand at least some of what you're getting
-> at.

 Dang.  Another fine flame war nipped in the bud.  <grin>
From: boubez@tastesgreat.rutgers.edu (Toufic Boubez)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: CV joints (Golf): replacing?
Date: 9 Oct 92 14:02:03 GMT
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

This is a repost of the article from rec.autos.vw, with one additional
question (Q#0):

Hi There. Well, it finally happened. I've started hearing that clicking
noise from the front as I accelerate or decelerate, which gets worse if I'm
turning. From all I've read here, and from the Bentley manual, it looks
like the outer CV joints are gone. Before I attempt to fix the problem, I
have a couple of questions. I'd appreciate any tips, advice, etc. 

0. Do I need to replace them, ie is there a possibility of just repacking
them? 
1. How complicated an operation is this? Should I schedule a whole day, a
few hours, a few weeks ;-)?
2. While I'm at it, I figure I should replace both sides (should I?).
Should I replace the inner joints too?
3. I'll probably take the inner joints out and examine them. Is that a
lengthy operation?
4. Any special tools that I would need? It looks like only a vise grip
(got it), a soft mallet (got it) and the 12-sided sockets (will get) are
needed (and lots of grease). Anything else?
5. Finally, the car is drivable so far, but until I get around to doing it,
is it a good idea to keep driving?

Thanks. As I said, I'd appreciate any comments, advice, tips, etc.

Take care.

toufic
            R 2 4      Toufic Boubez
            |_|_|      boubez@cesl.rutgers.edu
            | | |      Computational Engineering Systems Lab
            1 3 5      CAIP Center, Rutgers University, NJ
From: dye@i88.isc.com (Ken R. Dye )
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: The hand brake is not tightened.
Date: 13 Oct 92 16:51:14 GMT
Article-I.D.: i88.1992Oct13.165114.21688
Distribution: usa
Organization: INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation, Naperville, IL

In article <1992Oct13.001148.8669@walter.bellcore.com> hsong@ardour.bellcore.com (G. Hugh Song) writes:
>moving as my wife was pulling the brake lever, but it was apparently not
>enough to stop the car rolling.  Brake shoes were still pretty thick,
>and were usable as I had them replaced a year ago.  And it is less than
>10kmiles since I replaced the shoes.
>
>Is there any way to tighten the hand brake?   My car is '86 mazda 323.
>I need to have my car inspected in a week.  Yeah.  NJ inspects all cars
>once a year.   BTW, I had the same problem last year.   But at that time, 
>changing the brake shoes solved the problem.

	Some drum brake systems have automatic adjusters, and some
have manual ones.  Manual ones need to be adjusted every so often,
and under extreme use, the automatic ones won't be able to keep up
the shoe's material wearing away.  My '73 datsun has manual, but my late 
60's Bonnevilles have automatic.  The automatic ones can be
adjusted manually as well...best bet is to drive to a parts store and
check out the Haynes/Chiltons manual to see how to do it.

	Typically the adjuster will be a device that spreads the 
shoes apart, and is directly opposite of the wheel cylinder
(the piston gismo that pushes out the brake shoes when you 
press the non-parking brake pedal).  Perhaps someone has more
specific mazda experience and can tell you the exact procedure.

--Ken
-- 
Ken R. Dye				an optimist is a guy		 |
Interactive Systems Corp., Chicago	that has never had		 | 
(800) LAI-UNIX x341			much experience			 |
dye@i88.isc.comm						archy	 |
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech