HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: rkb6116@zeus.tamu.edu (MR. WEATHER)
Subject: Adhesive for particle board/carpet
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: Texas A&M University, Academic Computing Services
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 14:35:00 GMT

Okay, okay, okay- I know this is a FAQ, but what's the best adhesive to
attach automotive grade carpet to particle board?

(if we only had FAQ!) 

Mr. Weather <> aka Ken Blair <> rkb6116@zeus.tamu.edu <> Aggieland USA
From: jremer@ub.d.umn.edu (Jeremy Remer)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Setting the clock on my radio
Date: 22 Nov 1992 23:13:58 -0600
Organization: University of Minnesota, Duluth
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: ub.d.umn.edu

I think I have found the second most difficult thing to do.  

    Setting clocks on digital radios...particularly the model I have.
    (The first most difficult thing to do can be setting a old vcr :-)

    On to my problem:

    My radio is the Pyramid brand that is AM/FM/Tape with band
    equilizer(sp?).
    
    If anyone has a radio of this brand, or can help suggest how to program
    the clock on this radio, all help I can get would be great.

    My last resort is to disconnect and reconnect the car battery at 12:00.
    :-(

    Email JREMER@UB.D.UMN.EDU


-- 
Jeremy Remer                     | jremer@ub.d.umn.edu  |    - _____ - 
Computer Science Major           | jremer@va.d.umn.edu  |   |/|_____|\|
University of Minnesota, Duluth. | jremer@nyx.cs.du.edu | __|/|     |\|__ 
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: jsc52962@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Jeffrey S. Curtis)
Subject: Crossover impedance
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 07:41:48 GMT

I have two mono, two-way passive crossovers (xo pt. is 3kHz, -12dB/
octave).  The box says that the crossovers are "8 ohms".  I assume
that this means that to an amplifier, they appear as 8 ohm loads.
But how is the power actually distributed? Specifically, if I have
30 watts into 4 ohms being delivered to this crossover which calls
itself 8 ohms, which then sends the signal to a 4 ohm woofer and a
4 ohm tweeter, what power is delivered to the woofer and to the
tweeter?

Thanks,

Jeff
-- 
Jeffrey S. Curtis sidewinder@uiuc.edu | "Resplendent and full again, they revel
 The Power of 37  free2207 at uiucvmd | in their role as self-appointed critics
   Jensen - Polk - Sansui - Proton    | of the establishment..."
 Sony - StreetWires - Sanyo - Sennet  |   -- INXS _Welcome to Wherever You Are_
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: walshs@cs.uwp.edu (Steven Walsh)
Subject: Sony car amps -- cheap!
Organization: University of Wisconsin - Parkside
Distribution: rec.audio.car
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 04:35:36 GMT

Sony's XM-5540 (two of them)
----------------------------
55 Watts X 4 RMS
120 Watts X 2 (bridged) RMS
0.08% THD
Very clean (used about 3 months)
Selling to buy an Amiga 4000

$350 takes both...
(I paid $329 a piece!)

Steven Walsh
walshs@cs.uwp.edu

Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: paulf@halcyon.com (Paul Forgey)
Subject: Re: Installing a backup battery for an alarm
Organization: Northwest Nexus Inc. (206) 455-3505
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1992 21:55:59 GMT

ehawrysh@bnr.ca (Evan Hawrysh) writes:

>I've been thinking about installing a backup battery on car alarms,
>and I fail to see any problem with simply installing it in parallel with
>the main battery (I'd use a small motorcycle battery or something like that,
>the current draw by the alarm is quite small).

>I figure the use of a dual battery isolator would decrease the battery life
>by overcharging (due to the voltage drop over the isolator's diodes), but
>that could be overcome by reducing the regulator voltage. Is an isolator
>really necessary? 

The isolator will not overcharge your battery.  To keep a battery
charged, the alternator maintains a constant voltage of around 13.8V.
That same amount of voltage goes into both batteries.  The voltage loss
across your diods is 1.2V, so the alternator runs at 15 volts.  The
reason for this is that the regulator samples the voltage at the main
battery, and adjusts the alternator for it.  This is no sweat for either
the alternator, regulator, or battery.  The isolator becomes part of the
alternator this way.  With 13.8V going into both batteries, both are
happy.

>But why not just a simple parallel connection (w/o isolator)? Sure, there will
>be a current drain from one battery to the other if one battery's voltage is
>less, but wouldn't this be small (under normal circumstances)? It seems that
>this would be the simplest and easiest idea.

Two different batteries (like a car and motorcycle battery) charge and
drain at different rates.  The current difference could quite possibly
become extereme.  It is never a good idea to hook up two battereis in
parallel, and IASCA (International AutoSound Competition Association)
will stricly scold you for it.

paulf@halcyon.com
From: cjm9321@hertz.njit.edu (The InfoMan)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: How to reduce alternator whine
Date: 23 Nov 92 19:52:45 GMT
Organization: New Jersey Institute of Technology, Newark, N.J.

In article <1992Nov23.165447.19566@panix.com> dans@panix.com (Dan Simoes) writes:
>
>Could someone please post a description of how to reduce or eliminate 
>alternator whine coming through an amp using capacitors?
>
>I asked this once before, but didn't understand the replies.
>I rewired the amp using RCA shielded, gold-plug wires which run on
>the side of the car opposite the power wires (amp is trunk-mounted).
>The amp's power and ground are run directly to the battery, and the 
>trigger wire comes from the head unit.
>
>Dan Simoes                                       Voice: 914.747.2900 x415
>Danix Consulting                                 email: dans@panix.com or
>Yorktown Heights, NY                                     dans@danix.uucp

	I think I see your problem.

	Reconnect your negative wire to the closest piece of metal, Not
the BATTERY.

	If noise still persists, connect a wire (14 AWG) to the chassis
of the amp to the chassis of the radio.

	I not knowedgable about the cap but I would use something around
1000uF (microFarads).

			I would suppose someone else would give you help
on the cap, but please Connect the negative wire to teh closest piece of
metal!!!!.

				Hope this helps,

-- 
M A D E   .   . .---. .---.    \  Buy U.S.A. products,  /    xxxxx ==========
  I N     |   |  \    |___|    <     It's YOUR job.     >    xxxxx ========== 
 T H E    |   |    \  |   |    <  Christopher J. Massa  >    ================
-------   `---' `---' '   `    / cjm9321@hertz.njit.edu \    ================
From: hhtra@usho21.hou281.chevron.com (T.M.Haddock)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Alarm for carjacking
Date: 18 Nov 92 14:54:46 GMT
Organization: Chevron

In article <kmr4.256.722094580@po.CWRU.edu>, kmr4@po.CWRU.edu (Keith M. Ryan) writes:
|> In article <1687@rwja.umdnj.edu> holowczk@rwja.umdnj.edu (Richard Holowczak) writes:
|> >    One thing I do is not to pull up close to the car in front of me at red
|> >    lights.  This way, if someone is approaching your car, you can either
|> >    pull a U-Turn or drive around the car in front of you to get away.
|> 
|> 	I agree. My girl friend does not understand why I scold her for 
|> pulling right up on the bumper of the car in front at a light, in east 
|> Cleveland, with the window's open and the stereo cranking. She come's from a 
|> small town, and no matter how much you try to educate her about the cities, 
|> she just can't even comprehend that there is a danger.

 No kidding.  My wife comes from a small East Texas town where they
 still don't lock their doors at night.  I can't tell you how long
 it took me to get her to always lock the house and car doors like
 it was second nature!  Her grandparents think I'm paranoid when we
 come for a visit and I lock the doors after dark.

 Isn't it amazing how some perople take every precaution in the world
 and still fall victim but others go through life without-a-clue but
 don't get so much as a dirty look. 

 TRAVIS
From: mikey@eukanuba.wpd.sgi.com (Mike Yang)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Proton update
Date: 16 Nov 92 20:33:25 GMT
Reply-To: mikey@sgi.com
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc.

In article <Bxs4Cq.2CI@news.cso.uiuc.edu>, jsc52962@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Jeffrey S. Curtis) writes:
|> I just called Crutchfield hoping to get some information on Proton, and
|> boy did I ever.  Here's the scoop: Proton is dropping their car audio
|> line, which is why Crutchfield is carrying their equipment at such low
|> prices.

I think it's worse that that.  I was at the Good Guy's, a local
electronics store chain, and noticed that they stopped carrying
Proton's high-end televisions.  The salesman said that they stopped
carrying Proton video because they though Proton was in the process of
going out of business.  He said that Proton has already discontinued
their audio line (presumably, this included car and home) and that they
figured video wasn't far behind.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                 Mike Yang        Silicon Graphics, Inc.
               mikey@sgi.com           415/390-1786
From: kirk@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Kirk Lindstrom)
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 17:53:39 GMT
Subject: Re: DREAM SYSTEM...
Organization: Shredding the water of SF Bay, HP-OCD
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car

   I also have a request about what you think the ultimate dream system
   would be- with amps and all!!!

Well, since you asked!  I now have a van which gives a fair listening room.
I'd like to upgrade to one of those 16 Wheeler tractor-trailor riggs the
big stars and auto racers travel in.  Get a big generator outside and
put some Martin Loginsspeakers powered by Krell arc welders or Mark Levinson
amps.  Oh yeah, I'd get a driver for the truck so I could travel in the
back.  Even better, buy a BIG house close to work so I don't have to spend
more than the minimum time driving and then buy a great home system for
some real listening where you don't have all the problems associated with
reproducing music in a tin can with a 12V battery.

In a way, I sort of did this as I just upgraded my home system since my van
system was better (in some ways) than my old system.

Kirk(dreams lead to progress) out
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: trw@spl1.spl.loral.com (Tim R Witort)
Subject: Re: Display light in car stereo
Organization: Loral Software Productivity Laboratory
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 23:23:46 GMT

In article <1992Nov19.190406.24091@u.washington.edu>, sujan@stein.u.washington.edu (Sujan Punyamurthula) writes:
|> Hi,
|> The display bulb in my car stereo conked off. The 
|> stereo works fine but I need to swtich on the inside
|> light to tune a station! How difficult is it to
|> replace the display light bulb- I am no great
|> mechanic . The car stereo came with the car
|> Its an 84 Chevy Celebrity. Thanks in advance

   Probably pretty easy if you're not afraid to pull the
deck out and open it up.  Radio Shack will likely have
a bulb that will replace the burned out one.

-- Tim
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: mxl@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (marc.a.levy)
Subject: Alpine will always SUCK!
Organization: AT&T
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 21:23:37 GMT

Fellow Alpine Owners:   

   After speaking to Mr. Joe Cagle from Alpine Electronics, I
   will be attempting to get enough alpine owners involved
   with a possible class action suit.                  

   If this is new to you, let me explain.  It seems there is a
   design problem with the older model Alpine CD players.  The
   plastic "Worm" gear used in the tracking system was not
   designed properly, and therefore cause premature failure of
   the unit.  Alpine service technitions know about this
   problem, therefore I assume that Alpine also knows about
   it.  Alpine has designed a replacement gear for the older
   alpine CD players, it can therefore be conculded that this
   is a wide spread problem.

   It was good of alpine to fix the problem, BUT, WE SHOULD
   NOT HAVE TO PAY FOR IT!

   If you own a alpine CD player that has been repaired for
   this problem, please contact me, send me your name and
   address.  Thats all I need..  If you want to help, that is
   your option, but please atleast send me your name and
   address.  

   If you are in the market to buy any audio product, I would
   stress that you don not buy any Alpine or Luxman product.
   Yes, this type of equipment is complicated, and does have
   problems, but dont spend extra money on the brand names.
   Brand name's make people think of quality, but in this
   case, all it means is more money out of your pocket.

   I have dealt with many company's when I worked for a retail
   show, and even more companys now that I am myself in R&D,
   and I am glad to say that most companys are not like this.

   Alpine brand name no longer means quality... It means a
   cheap Honda factory stereo.  (Not to insult Honda).

Marc.

Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: klong@sura.net ("K.A. Long")
Subject: Clarion cassette player and cd changer controller
Followup-To: klong@sura.net	
Keywords:  What do you know about this?
Organization:  SURAnet 
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 23:44:02 GMT

I saw an ad in a car audio magazine for this cassette player/cd
changer combination.  Does anyone know anything about this unit?
Do you need an amp for this?  Do you have to buy a Clarion
changer?  I don't have the time to read the group regularly so
please followup directly to me.  Thanks!

klong@sura.net


Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: jeh@cmkrnl.com
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Do those CD players skip? Are they any good?
Date: 23 Nov 92 03:54:17 GMT
Organization: Kernel Mode Consulting, San Diego, CA

In article <1992Nov21.215937.10124@nwnexus.WA.COM>, paulf@halcyon.com (Paul Forgey) writes:
> mxl38@po.CWRU.Edu (Michel Labrousse) writes:
>>I'd like to get one of these in-dash CD players but I've read on this newsgroup
>>that some of you had troubles with CDs skipping. My car is a Honda Civic 1992
>>and I was wondering if any of you knew about those:
> 
>>Sony CDX-5180
> 
> Haven't looked into the Sony models, but most dealers tell me:  "It's a
> Sony, if you want to do it right, stay away"

My personal experience with my Sony cassette/receiver head unit (XR-7280) has
been nothing but positive.  

Granted, my unit is about a 1.5 model series older than the CDX-5180.  I have
no idea how applicable my experience is to the newer units.  But I can tell you
that at least my particular sample of this particular model is very very good. 

>>Pioneer DEH 680, DEH 880, DEH 980
> 
> Excellent models.  A friend has a DEH 680 in a slammed (read bumpy)
> Honda, and it works quite well.  The SuperTuner III and IV are excellent
> for areas like Seattle, Denver, etc..  IE shitty reception.

I'd say the same about the Sony tuner (again, based on my experience with this
one unit).  As I've mentioned in other threads, it will often let me hear clear
stereo from distant stations (~120 miles) that are on adjacent channels (200
kHz) to "locals".  This would be outstanding performance even from a high-end
home stereo tuner with a directional antenna.  To do this with a car's built-in
whip is nothing short of amazing. 

	--- Jamie Hanrahan, Kernel Mode Consulting, San Diego CA
Internet:  jeh@cmkrnl.com, hanrahan@eisner.decus.org, or jeh@crash.cts.com
Uucp:  ...{crash,eisner,uunet}!cmkrnl!jeh
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car,alt.locksmithing
From: phoenix@cwis.unomaha.edu (Shannon Chris Saltzman)
Subject: Re: Car alarms 
Organization: University of Nebraska at Omaha
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 02:26:18 GMT

Maybe I am alone in this statement.
I would almost love to see some jerk get his car stolen
when I think of all of the false alarms I have to deal with!!
Now if I saw someone stealing some poor slobs car I would not
turn away and ignore it,  I would try to see who it was etc.
But I would not cry too long if I found out he didnt get it back.
Maybe Im just insensitive.

-- 
From the coffee table of MR SHANNON SALTZMAN
"Is doggie heavan kitty hell?"
     Stephanie Phoenix(age 6)
This in everyway represents the authors opinion!!!(take it if ya want)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: jreiser@scott.skidmore.edu (Jason Reiser... Asleep)
Subject: Re: Crossover impedance
Organization: Skidmore College, Saratoga Springs NY
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 21:54:48 GMT

jsc52962@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Jeffrey S. Curtis) writes:
> I have two mono, two-way passive crossovers (xo pt. is 3kHz, -12dB/
> octave).  The box says that the crossovers are "8 ohms".  I assume
> that this means that to an amplifier, they appear as 8 ohm loads.
> But how is the power actually distributed? Specifically, if I have
> 30 watts into 4 ohms being delivered to this crossover which calls
> itself 8 ohms, which then sends the signal to a 4 ohm woofer and a
> 4 ohm tweeter, what power is delivered to the woofer and to the
> tweeter?

You've got the concept a bit confused...
Actually, the crossover is not a load and as such will not have any
particular impedance.  The impedance listed on the crossover is
instead the speaker impedance that will give standard performance of
-12db/octave at 3kHz.  If you use this with 4 ohm speakers, you will
alter the crossover points.  
As for power delivered through a crossover, the crossover shouldn't
absorb any power... save a small loss to heat... but if this crossover
were wired to an 8 ohm woofer and 8 ohm tweeter via a 30x2 amp, each
speaker would see 30 watts in the appropriate frequency range for that
speaker.

Hope that helps,
				- Jason
-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------
\ Jason A. Reiser  \ Send E-Mail to jreiser@scott.skidmore.edu \
 \ Skidmore College \ Saratoga Springs, NY 12866 \ 518-581-6580 \  
  \ It's a new Ice Age!  Hooray!!  Sled City!  - Calvin & Hobbes \
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: jboro@dale.cts.com (John F. Boro)
Subject: Re: Capacitors, etc... CALMLY
Organization: Titan Linkabit Corporation
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 19:23:59 GMT

Brian,

I think you may have caps confused with inductors. L's resist
changes in curent, caps - voltage.

for an ind: V=L di/dt   for a cap: I=C dv/dt

As long as the voltage across the cap changes, so does the current,
regardless of the cap's size. The amount of current supplied by the
cap depends on the size. Unless, of course your operating at a point
past the caps self-resonance at which point it looks like an inductor.

That's the way I see it, correct me if I'm wrong.......

Brian, BTW - I always thought that the primary imaging should come from
the rear of the car. But, on this net I've noticed that most people
prefer the opposite. What is the advantage to front primary imaging
if it fires into your leg or gets scattered by bouncing of your
windsheild? What's your personal preference and why?

Thanks, 

--
John Boro
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: ravalent@mothra.syr.EDU (Bob Valentine)
Subject: Re: Car alarms
Organization: Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 92 22:06:18 EST

In article <4855@equinox.unr.edu> lemon@unssun.scs.unr.edu (John-John) writes:
>[Second try, pardon if i was fooled and the first one worked. *grumble*]
>
>In article <1992Nov16.052253.6048@u.washington.edu> miolnir@stein.u.washington.edu (Scot Thorstad) writes:
>>  Anyone have any particularly nasty things to do to the bastards 
>>whose car alarms start screaming a 1:00 am and never shut up?
>>(I expect something good from you a.t people)
>>scot
>
>Drain oil from motor (Remember to catch oil in a container and
>dispose of properly...perhaps on that blue Nissan over there...).
>Replace oil drain plug (very important step).  Walk away.
>(I believe it might be possible to do this without triggering
>the motion sensor, but you must be very gentle while doing it.)
>Notice absence of said vehicle's vehement alarm the next night,
>whilst you slumber in peace.

No no no!   Don't remove the oil.  Just loosen the plug.  That way,
it will (hopefully) fall out while he is doing about 60mph on a
curve.  Oil gone, engine sieze.  

>Drawbacks:
>Note this is _costly_ to the owner of the vehicle, so you should
>not do this as a practical joke to a friend.
>For that matter, it could be dangerous given the speed with which
>things mechanical move when an engine is running.

Isn't that the whole point?

>John ;)
>
>      John A. LeMon           "Good my Lord, put your discourse in some frame  
>     U. Nevada, Reno              and start not so wildly from my affair."     
>  lemon@unssun.nevada.edu                       --Shakespeare              
> "My voice will rise and be heard, even if it kills me (or my mbox)!" -- Me.

--> Bob

Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: kmr4@po.CWRU.edu (Keith M. Ryan)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car,alt.locksmithing,alt.tasteless
Subject: Re: Car alarms
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1992 22:44:20 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University
NNTP-Posting-Host: b64746.student.cwru.edu

In article <1992Nov21.023346.5974@newstand.syr.edu> ravalent@mothra.syr.EDU (Bob Valentine) writes:
>>	*ahem* I hope this was sarcasm. In a civilized society, no one
>>"deserves" to have their car/stereo stolen. And, if they wish to spend their 
>>hard earned money on their truck, they ought to be allowed to. 
>>	I live in the US of A, I don't know where you do.
>
>    I hope it was not.  The same a**hole has been driving around in the
>area I live in with a 89 Dodge Pickup.  Fine.  I just don't like
>hearing him blast rap at 2 in the morning while I'm trying to sleep/study.
>I asked him to keep it quiet, he told me to "fuck off".  Called the 
>cops.  They want no part of it, this is a "university problem".
>BTW, loud is as in you can hear it (and almost feel it) for better 
>than a football field's length. If he doesn't stop, his truck may just
>have some problems.
>   I have a setup that probably could be played annoyingly loud. I
>chose not to, namely because I like to be able to hear things, and
>I don't expect other people to like Metallica played at high
>volume.  What it really comes down to is just be considerate. It's 
>a really difficult idea for some people.
>
	So, you judge the many, buy the actions of the few. Why don't you 
condmen those who blast away ( and rightfully so ), and not judge ALL those 
who have tricked out trucks.
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: cjs33278@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Carl+Chris Samos)
Subject: Re: Sound Stream Separates
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Distribution: usa
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1992 19:25:38 GMT

I have owned two sets of SS-510s for over two years now, and I have never had
a problem with them.  I live near Chicago where the temperature can range from
-30F to +100F over the course of a year, so these speakers are definitely put
through a rugid temperature extreme test.  They are being powered by 4
channels of an a/d/s/ PH-15 (50W RMS/channel).  After reading your story, I
went out to my car and removed the grills to take a close look at the speakers.
They still look just like new, and they still sound wonderful at any volume.

I also own a SoundStream D200 II amp (100W x 2).  I've had this for over 1
year now, and it has never had a problem either.  

Of all my components, the SoundStream and a/d/s gear have been the best in
terms of reliability and performance.  It's unfortunate that you had a bad
exposure to SoundStream.  Were the speakers brand new, or were they demo
models?  As for the amp you may not buy, if it fulfills your needs, then
you shouldn't forget it because of a bad experience with their speakers.

I spoke to a friend of mine about your speaker experience (he's an installer
at a local shop that sells SoundStream), and in the years that he's been 
installing SoundStream equipment (including his own vehicle), he has never
heard of that happening to new speakers.  If they are in fact new, then SS
should replace them with no problems.

-Carl

The usual stuff about how I'm not involved with SoundStream in any way 
except that I'm a loyal and happy customer, etc...

Newsgroups: rec.audio.car