HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: bradley@psd.riacs.edu (Brad Christofferson)
Subject: Re: How do I remove a root?
Organization: RIACS, NASA Ames Research Center
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 92 17:49:30 GMT

In article <12348@limey>, sheriffp@Software.Mitel.COM (Peter Sheriff) writes:
|> 
|>     I have just cut down an old Honeysuckle bush that was getting out of
|> hand. I have sawn it down to ground level (the `trunk' was about five
|> inch caliper) but I am unable to remove the root. Does anyone know of a
|> way I can kill off the roots and have the rest rot in the ground? There
|> is a bylaw against using fire to burn it out in my town so it would
|> probably have to be chemicals.
|> 
|>                                     Pete

The trick is to leave about 4 or 5 feet of the trunck sticking out of the ground
when you cut the bush down.  Then you have leverage when you dig and break the
roots.  

Can you use a pick and shovel to get at the thing?  I guess not.  Try drilling
holes in it and pouring in something to help it decompose rapidly.

-- 

B				E		Y................
  R 			L
        A         D

"People slowly accustomed themselves to the idea that the physical
states of space itself were the final physical reality"

				-Professor Albert Einstein
From: Deborah.R.Kozlowski@dartmouth.edu (Deborah R. Kozlowski)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: RE: Baby Corn
Date: 22 Jul 92 14:49:32 GMT
 <29920010@hpspkla.spk.hp.com>  
 <17JUL92.14444634@earvax.waisman.wisc.edu>
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH

In article <17JUL92.14444634@earvax.waisman.wisc.edu>
kistler@earvax.waisman.wisc.edu writes:

> I don't remember seeing baby corn in any of my seed catalogs.  Does anyone have
> mail-order sources for baby corn?
> 
> Thanks
> Doris Kistler
> kistler@waisman.wisc.edu

 You don't need special varieties - just harvest immature ears from any
variety of sweet corn when the silk begins to emerge and the ear inside
is 2-3" long.
 To avoid sacrificing a whole ear of corn-on-the-cob for each baby ear
you harvest, take just one baby ear from each plant. The second or
third ear, or any that seems destined for eventual runthood,is probably
best. The remaining ears will then be a little bigger.
  These are good in stir-fry, or raw, as in salads, where they are
almost cloyingly sweet. When they are slightly larger (4-5") they can
be cut into slices and used in stews. However, they don't seem to keep
well, and I have had poor success freezing them.

  While we are on the subject of corn, does anyone have any recipies
for tamales ?  Can good ones be made of sweet corn, or alternatively,
of "cow corn" in the milk stage.

  Deb "worshipping the corn god" Kozlowski
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re:  JASMINE is shedding flowers
From: lynx@surrey.amigans.gen.nz (Lynsey Gedye)
Date: 23 Jul 92 11:01:49 GMT-12
Distribution: world
Organization: Prime Line, Wanganui, New Zealand

In article <20JUL199211224051@vxcrna.cern.ch> veitch@vxcrna.cern.ch (Liz Veitch) writes:
>In article <1992Jul19.064128.20258@cs.mun.ca>, craigs@garfield.cs.mun.ca (Betsy Brett) writes...
>>  stuff deleted      ( the flowers fall off her jasmine plant )
>   more stuuf deleted ( How do you get jasmine to flower again at all ? )  

  At their best jasmines (Jasmine officinale - yer basic white/pinkish flowered
  model) whisper with the breath of Schezerade.  Otherwise, they can be brats.

  During the growing season keep them evenly moist and feed standard fertiliser
  every two weeks.  You could do worse than get a fertiliser that boasts it's
  flower producing abilities - a reasonably high potash/potassium number is
  a good start - I just use - if I can be bothered - some tomato fertiliser.
  When the growing seaon is over, taper everything back - let the top centimetre
  of mix dry before you water.

  Keep the Jasmine reasonably cool - say 8 - 16 degrees, and in bright light.
  They need some direct sunlight to flower well, watch for scortching if you've
  had the plant inside for a time.  Once you've got them into a 20cm pot, just
  replace the top 2 cms of mix each year, it doesn't hurt to top dress with
  some blood`n'bone mix.  Pinch back the growing tips - Jasmine have a lot in
  common with children and dogs... they're somehow nicer to have around in the
  house when they're under control - outside; wild and free.

  Oh yeah - flowers falling off is always a sign of bad treatment somewhere.
  Plants take the long term view - better to sacrifice flowers, then leaves,
  rather than the plant itself.  (Just like the further you go up in any
  heirachy the further you are from being fired =:)

  The plant has been shocked by being moved from its familiar location, got
  cold, dried, wet, windy, sunny, or maybe just because the change of light.
  A change of water/food can give us humans the er, runs... plants "feed" on
  light - a change of light can give them the same...  The worst I ever saw
  for this is Thunbergia grandiflora - has 2cm wide, blue flowers - 
  grandiflora says it all.  Never ever got it out of a glasshouse +:(
--
           lynx@surrey.amigans.gen.nz    lynx@amigans.gen.nz
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: mguyott@eriador.prime.com (M. Guyott)
Subject: How do I get rid of Ivy?
Organization: Prime Computer R&D
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 18:57:58 GMT


The title says it all!  How can I get rid of Ivy that is growing all over
the side of my new (new to me that is (-8 ) house?  Is Round-up a good
product to use for this?  Is there something better and/or stronger?  Where
can I get Round-up?

Thanks for all information and advice.

Marc
----
Two of the worst things we teach our children are that a knowledge of science
is nice but not necessary, and a knowledge of sex is necessary but not nice.

Marc Guyott              Constellation Software, Inc.          (508) 620-2800
                         Framingham, Mass. 01701 USA                Ext. 3135
mguyott@primerd.prime.com       ...!{uunet, decwrl}!primerd.prime.com!mguyott
mguyott@eriador.prime.com       ...!{uunet, decwrl}!eriador.prime.com!mguyott
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: br105@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey A. Del Col)
Subject: The Cure for Blossom End Rot
Reply-To: br105@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey A. Del Col)
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 92 13:25:29 GMT


I should probably call this a preventive measure and not a cure; once the
rot appears it is too late to save the tomatoes.

	Blossom end rot is caused by a calcium deficiency in the soil.
This deficiency occurs when drenching rains or over-watering leach
the calcium from the soil.  The answer to the problem is to provide the
plants with sufficient calcium in the form of lime in the soil. Agricultural
lime or powdered limstone should be added to the soil. Another, more expensive
method of dealing with the problem is to use commerical preparations such
as "Tomato Saver" or similar products.  These are concentrated calcium
chloride solutions that are diluted and then sprayed on the plants.

This is not an endorsement of any commercial product. Liming the soil
according to the recommendation of your county extension agent is without
a doubt the best procedure for preventing BER.

J. Del Col
-- 
Jeff Del Col      *       "I'm never lonely,...living in my heavily      
A-B College       *   populated solitude, a harum-scarum of infinity        
Philippi, WV      *   and eternity, and Infinity and Eternity seem to          
                  *   take a liking to the likes of me." Bohumil Hrabal.
From: ramirez@julia.math.ucla.edu (Alice Ramirez)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Bunnies in the garden
Date: 23 Jul 92 16:15:28 GMT
Organization: UCLA Mathematics Department


Klein at J. Klein at U. Kansas asked whether she'd regret the rabbits that
live in her garden.  Well, it depends.  Based on my own experience, I'd
do what I could to discourage them.

A few years ago I took in two male bunnies that were otherwise destined for
Bthe pound.  I figured, since I had a fenced-in back yard, why not?  I wasn't
into gardening at the time, Bunny Chow is cheap and I hate to see animals 
sent to their doom.

Well to make a long story sort, they sort of amazed me at what they ate.
Despite a constantly full bowl of bunny chow plus asst'd carrots and
greens they ate a 12' x 12' section of wandering jew that I had planted
in the back of my yard (actually I had planted one pot that was dying off,
and liked it and took over)  They ate the whole thing.  They ate
a fair amt of other greenery before they finally died, either of old
age or oleander nibbles.  I'm not exactly sure what killed them off,
but first one then shortly later, within  a few  days, the other died.
Meanwhile, what was left in my yard was basically iris and oleander.

This was before I got into veggie and fruit planting in any significant way.

Keeping the cats out to mark their territory is probably an excellent
stragety, or a good dog.  I recall that my two foster-bunnies were quite
nervous around cats.  They did not have access to dogs, but I imagine
it would be more so.  Someone else suggested fencing, which might be more
expensive, or not practical.  I agree it is better to keep out than
hurt the little garden-eaters.

Was it Australia or Hawaii where someone brought in a few bunnies to serve
as a child's pet, and those bunnies multiplied and became a major, serious
pest.
From: CMF0@bunny.gte.com (Cristina Ferla)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Need info on Hemlocks
Date: 23 Jul 92 14:48:36 GMT
Article-I.D.: ceylon.651
Organization: GTEL

The builder of my house, as well as the next door house, planted four
hemlocks on each as foundation planting.  I have kept mine trimmed
as well as I could, but they are now about 15 years old and getting
to have very thick trunks and becoming rather bare in the back (against
the house) and the bottoms.

My next door neighbor heard that if we cut them down, they'll 
come back...  I am a little hesitant to do it, even though eventually I
may have to have them removed altogether.  I simply cannot cut them
down and have to have them replaced in the next year.

Any Net wisdom regarding this issue will be greatly appreciated.

Cristina
From: SUSANMC@nervm.nerdc.ufl.edu (Susan McIntosh)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: mail-order plants
Date: 29 Jul 92 13:16:21 GMT
Organization: University of Florida, NERDC

Anyone have any pros/cons, comments, and/or recommendations regarding
ordering plants (not seeds) via mail?  Any comments on a mail-order             y comments on a mail-order
company called Garden Solutions ??
 
Thanks in advance :-)
 
susan
Gainesville, FL
From: IO11438@MAINE.MAINE.EDU (Just Suppose or Juxtapose)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: earwigs
Date: 25 Jul 92 16:46:36 GMT
Organization: University of Maine System

Hi,
  I just trimmed 6"-12" up my tomato plants to remove and prevent more

  early blight. I startled a couple dozen earwigs that I watched scurry

  under my black plastic mulcher. Seems like an ideal place to raise them:

   dark and damp.  So how DO I keep them under control?  I would prefer an

   organic method if possible.

    All help will be appreciated.

               Bud



     E-mail or Post
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: martha@gvlf7-o.gvl.unisys.com (Martha Sherman)
Subject: Re: Daylilies!
Organization: Paramax Systems, Great Valley Labs, Paoli, Pa
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 12:30:02 GMT


I'd recommend:

Daylily Discounters
Rt. 2 Box 24,
Alachua, FL 32615
904-462-1539

Their catalog is $3.  The daylilies can be pricey, but if they don't have it,
nobody will.


Martha H. Sherman
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
I speak only for myself, and sometimes I even wonder about that...
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: drk@CS.WASHINGTON.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Broccoli Raab
Date: 31 Jul 92 17:02:53 GMT

A couple weeks ago there were some questions about how you grow Broccoli
Raab.  Here is what I found out.

Broccoli Raab can be planted in the autumn or the spring.  A spring
planting results in a mature plant in about two months.  If you plant in
the Autumn it grows some and then dies back until spring (this is in New
England -- hard freezes; it would probablly keep growing here in the PNW).

The plant is very much like lettuce in that it only germinates in cooler
weather and bolts when the days get too warm.  Each plant produces an
abundance of seed so you should never have to buy any if you plan ahead.
I was told the plant is self seeding (like a weed) but I am unclear about
wether a mature plant lives/is usable in its second year.

You eat the leaves.  The tender central leaves are the best.  It is
important to pick leaves before bolting.

Plants grow to about 1ft in diameter and (if you let them go to seed) about
2 - 3ft tall.

Broccoli Raab is a member of the Turnip Family.  (Does this mean you can
serve it at the White House?)

Thanks to Dorothy Neville (WA) and Caro Sparagna (CT) for the information.

	Dan
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: Lawrence.London@bbs.oit.unc.edu (Lawrence London)
Subject: Re: Horticultural information via telnet
Organization: Extended Bulletin Board Service
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 03:08:13 GMT

In article <27JUL92.22391802@skyfox.usask.ca> andrews@skyfox.usask.ca writes:
>There is now a hortinfo selection available when you telnet to:
>genius@usask.ca
>login: genius  [lower case and no password required]
>This information is also available on a bulletin board (306)966-8013.
>That phone is voice answered 8:30am-4:30pm Central Standard Time - note
>that Saskatchewan does not go on daylight savings :(  The Horticulture
>bulletin board at UofS also carries these echo groups:
>Sust-Ag (Sustainable Agriculture)
 ^^^^^^^
>Nutrition
Three cheers!
>Inquire about the availability of these echos at your local fidonet
>boards.
Absolutely.
I've read them for years. :-)
>Happy Gardening,
>Dan Andrews

L.L.
1:151/502
Host: SUST_AG, NUTRITION

EARTH*Net BBS
919-932-3115
12AM-7AM EDT



--
   The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the University of
     North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Campus Office for Information
        Technology, or the Experimental Bulletin Board Service.
           internet:  bbs.oit.unc.edu or 152.2.22.80
From: loftis@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Kirk Loftis)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 15:46:13 GMT
Subject: Re: Lawns was (Alternative Commercial Landscaping)
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.gardens


	Hello Jim,

|I saw an article (I forget where) about HP in Palo Alto using infrared
|aerial photographs to optimize their water used and to determine which
|plants were using the most water.  Does anyone at HP know more about
|this?

	I understand that they (the landscapers here) have been doing a
lot of water usage tips.  Recycled water for the lawns, Infrared
photographs, xeroscaping, letting lawns die that are not used.  One
thing I have to laugh at, we had a site that is being demolished.  They
let the lawn dry out.  The trick they did was to mow the lawn regularly
and spray paint the lawn with something to make it look green.  Of
course it did not look real, but it was a good trick.

	To tell you the truth, I have been watching what they are doing
here and applying at home.  It is helpful to have tips so close.  

	Kirk

	NOTE: I have been working here in Palo Alto since 1983

	DISCLAIMER: these are my opinions and not those of my employer
From: laurie@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (Laurie Schaaf)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Fiberglass Fencing Info
Date: 28 Jul 92 14:46:47 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO




         F i b e r g l a s s   F e n c i n g . . . . . . . . . .
         =======================================================

We are using it at our stables and it is great!  Here are the details:


(This off of the advertising brochure)
*******************************************************************************

Talk about the perfect fence.  This is it.  Fiberglass Fencing.
You won't believe it until you see it.  But when you do you'll
know.  It's the fence of the future.

It's the perfect application for anywhere.  It's available in 3,4, or 5
rail and is great for horse and cattle ranches, dairy farms and perimeter
fencing.  Stalls for all types of livestock are no problem.

Fiberglass Fencing is a great way to increase property value as it's
competitively priced with any other type of fencing you might consider.

Fiberglass Fencing can be painted any color you can think of by simply
applying a coat of exterior grade latex paint after installation.

	*  100% Round Fiberglass
	*  No Heat Retention
	*  No Rotting or Rusting
	*  Virtually Maintenance Free
	*  Competitively Priced
	*  3-4-5 Rail Available
	*  Safe with Livestock
	*  Pain With Exterior Grade Latex
	*  Easily Repaired
	*  Corner Post Available in Various Diameters 
	*  Rails Available From Approximately 2 Inches
           in Diameter to 4 Inches in Diameter
	*  Installation Included

*******************************************************************************

We looked at Wood and Steel Fencing and decided to go with Fiberglass for it's
price and ease of installation.  Several mini-farms and acreages are just
finding out about this product and are very interested.  The representative
we are working through is the person who holds the patent.  We are so 
impressed with the product we thought we would share it with you.  If you
are interested in more detailed info let me know and I will send you a 
brochure.

Regards,

	Paul and Laurie Schaaf
	1-303-226-4664 (H)
	1-303-679-3225 (W)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: ehwd@sherman.pas.rochester.edu (Eric Howard)
Subject: Re: Artificial light for IVY and DRACAENA will it work?
Organization: University of Rochester
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 92 21:36:36 GMT

>> Do I need to get a different artificial light?  (I can put one under my 
>> credenzas).  The current bulbs are "Cool White".
>> 
>Fluorescent tubes, now matter how many of them there are, are completely
>useless for plant lighting requirements at ceiling heights.  At that
>distance, plants, as far they can tell, are sitting in a dark closet.
>
>For fluorescent tubes to be useful, they have to be within a couple
>of inches of the plants.  If practical, I even let the tubes come in 
>contact with the folliage.  They have to be used to longer periods of
>time than incandescent bulbs or sunlight depending on the strength.
>Incandescent bulbs can be used at greater distances (up to a few feet)
>but can't be place too close to the plants.   The heat from the bulbs
>will burn the plants.

This may be true for high light plants, ie veggies etc. But it is 
definately not true for low-light-requirement plants. There are a
number of plants that will do just fine in this type of environment,
including a number of ivy's. I'm not so sure about the Dracaena. 

To get more "full spectrum" coverage for the plants, and to increase
the overall light intensity you may want to suppliment things with
incandecent bulbs and/or 'plant lights', but I would suggest using
the flouorescent type of plant light, as the incandescent types I 
have seen just have an additional coating on the glass, reducing the
overall output of light from the bulb. 

Other than this just follow the usual rules about watering and 
feeding, and see what will survive and what won't. Pothos almost certainly
will survive.

eric
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1992 07:50:53 EDT
From: <KJB6@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: GREENISH SOIL ?????????


We have had a lot of rain here, and I have noticed that the soil  in my
veggie garden, and that around the roses has a greenish tint to it. Is this
some sort of fungus growing on the ground because of all the rain fall we have
had? What can be done about it? and will it cause any damage to any of my
plants???

Thanks,


Ken Bauer
Pennsylvania State University at Erie, The Behrend College
From: jhb@calmasd.prime.com (Jim Bishop)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Re:Daylilies
Date: 22 Jul 92 21:30:06 GMT
Organization: -

In article <92202.53890.L621035@LMSC5.IS.LMSC.LOCKHEED.COM>, 
L621035@LMSC5.IS.LMSC.LOCKHEED.COM writes:

> Any company outside of CA (except places like J&P which have special agreement
> policies) are subject to shipping delays. 

I toured J&P (Jackson & Perkins) in Medford Oregon several years ago. 
All of their roses are grown in Bakersfield CA.  Apparently the
growing conditions in Bakersfield allow for the equivalent of 2 years
of growth in one year.  Also the tule fog in the fall allows them to
dig the bushes and leave then laying on the ground for several days
without drying out.  Medford is just a big refrigerated shipping
house and not worth the tour unless you are into logistics.

> [ Discussion on daylilies by mail deleted ]

I'll recommend a local (Southern California) mail order daylily grower
again:

	Cordon Bleu
	418 Buena Creek Rd.
	San Marcos, CA 92069
	619-744-2810

I believe the catalogue is $2.  They also have a post box, but I don't
know the number.  (I've never tried them mail order, but I did some
roots that they were getting ready to ship and they didn't look
large.)

I'll recommend another that I've heard is great but never visited. 
I don't know if they offer mail order.

	Daylilies of Tomorrow  (Love that name)
	1656 N 2d 
	El Cajon, CA
	619-447-4922

Their ad says; "Featuring our own new hybirds.  Visit one of the finest
daylily collections in So. Calif.  Easy care, full range of color. 
Blooms May thru December."

Jim
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: ncollins@cray.com (Nathan Collins)
Subject: flower bed      
Keywords: bed, bark
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 30 Jul 92 14:48:27 CDT


I'm currently re-doing my front flower/shrub bed, putting in yews, azaleas,
and other plants. I've dug up the dirt and raked it smooth. My question
is what would be a good ground cover to beautify the bed and require
little or no maintenance?

I have a brick home and the wall in contact with the flower bed is brick,
and then concrete at the foundation.

Has anybody had good/bad experience with shredded bark or wood nuggets?
Do I have to worry about insects with the bark?

How about stone chips? Other ideas, what have you used? Anybody use the
weed-guard fabric, how is it working for you?

thanks,
-- 
~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*
Nate Collins                           "I speak for myself, not my corporation,
Field Engineer -  Cray Research, Inc.      and not for you, just for me."
e-mail:    ncollins@techops.cray.com
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: kali@uxc.cso.uiuc.edu (Cal Pomes)
Subject: tilling under trees
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 17:38:48 GMT

I want to kill my mother's lawn and start a new one this fall. The
problem is the tree shading it, a twenty-foot maple. Can I till
under it without hurting its roots? 
Its drip line is completely
within the boundary of the lawn.

Thanks,

Cal Pomes
-- 
" . . . this is *not* a free country, and it will be an evil day for the
legal profession when it is."  --A.P. Herbert
UUCP:     uunet!uiucuxc!kali
Internet: kali@uxc.cso.uiuc.edu
From: ns@gibbs.physics.purdue.edu (Nancy M. Schnepp)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: WALNUT TREE STRUCK BY LIGHTNING
Date: 29 Jul 92 21:16:28 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Purdue University Physics Department


Our big walnut tree (~75 years) was struck by lightning
this morning.  We are wondering what its chances of survival
are and how soon can we tell?  It entered high in the tree
at a fork, exiting out the other side of the tree (black
hole about the size of a donut), blowing out several small
pieces of bark.  It also came out the other side---you can
see a line clear down the tree, and see where it went into
the ground splattering mud up into the leaves of the
tree.  It was a very loud, single POP.  What a way to wake up.
Anyway, if anyone has had experience with lightning strikes
e-mail me.  Thanks.  It also zapped the amp on our tv tower
since it was nearby!!

-Nancy S.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens