HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

 The correct thing I've been told is to 
 a: put the digit in a baggy, seal that. 
 b: put that in a baggy filled with ice. 
 c: rush to hospital.

  the idea, of course, is that if the digit is submerged, the flesh gets too
  soft, frangible, and they can't work with the edges or something.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: smb@research.att.com (Steven Bellovin)
Subject: Re: WARNING
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 20:21:49 GMT
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories

There's an article on shop safety in one of the FWW books.  The author
cited a survey of shop accident victims.  One major common item was that
the victims generally had the sense that they were stretching the
limits, but they thought that ``it's always worked in the past; it will
this time, too.''  I know that sense -- and ever since reading that article,
I've taken it as a warning.  I *won't* do something that leaves me uneasy.
Murphy may or may not live inside my table saw, but I know (s)he hangs
out there a lot...
From: meltsner@crd.ge.com (Kenneth J. Meltsner)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re:      Re: filing cabinets
Date: 11 Jan 93 15:42:48 GMT
Reply-To: meltsner@crd.ge.com
Organization: GE Research and Development Center



An archivist at the NY State Archives counsels against the use of oak
in archival, closed storage and passes along horror stories about oak
display cases destroying museum displays.

It's probably not an issue for filing cabinets if you don't expect the
papers within to be useful in forty years.

Best wood for archival storage is walnut, by the way.

===============================================================================
Ken Meltsner                        | meltsner@crd.ge.com (518) 387-6391
GE Research and Development Center  | Fax:  (518) 387-6474
P.O. Box 8, Room KWD270		    | Nothing I say should be attributed
Schenectady, NY 12301               | to my employer, and probably vice-versa
"It's probable, just not very likely." -- Fire Maidens From Outer Space.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: pollack@dendrite.cis.ohio-state.edu (Jordan B Pollack)
Subject: Re: WARNING
Originator: pollack@dendrite.cis.ohio-state.edu
Reply-To: pollack@cis.ohio-state.edu
Organization: Ohio State Computer Science
	<#8820xb@rpi.edu> <C0HJMG.HxI@hsi.com>
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 03:53:25 GMT

STOP! That bunuel-esque story is enough to make me vomit my call for
an end to this WARNING! thread, whose initial reportage of one
woodworker's booboo has turned into a freeforall about friends and
relatives's bizarro accidents. Let's get back to our hobby, carefully
now, with our new supply of pencils, toothbrush with erasers, and
dusty old bladeguards whose ratchet teeth ruin nice stock.

Or, do we need a new group rec.crafts.woodworking.accidents?? 


-- 
Jordan Pollack                            Assistant Professor
CIS Dept/OSU                              Laboratory for AI Research
2036 Neil Ave                             Email: pollack@cis.ohio-state.edu
Columbus, OH 43210                        Phone: (614)292-4890 (then * to fax)
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Norm's New Season
Date: 9 Jan 93 01:12:06 GMT
Organization: LLNL

In article <1993Jan8.215346.10378@mlb.semi.harris.com>, luoni@jasper.mlb.semi.harris.com (Perry Luoni) writes:
> 
> I would spend the extra bucks to get a
> quality flurbigator since it will probably outlast you, but if you
> get a Sears flurbigator you will end up buying 5 or 6 in the next 20 to 40
> years.  Just make sure you get one with an induction motor.  They are 
> much quieter.

That's really good advice.  We wouldn't have squiblets so often if we had
to flurbigate squiblets the messy manual way or we had to put up with the
noise and clean-up problems of a cheap Sears flurbigator.

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: weissborn@DFWVX1.DALLAS.SDS.SLB.COM
Subject: Re: Looking for lettering ideas for a refinishing project.
Reply-To: weissborn@dfwdsr.sinet.slb.com
Organization: Schlumberger Data Services - Dallas
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 93 21:21:50 GMT

In article <1992Dec31.160246.19721@cactus.org>, krouse-p@cactus.org (Pierce F. Krouse) writes:
>I'm refinishing a Philco radio/phonograph set, and I need ideas for
>how to replace the lettering that marks the tuning and volume knobs.
>It's gold lettering with a black border.  The lettering has been worn
>off the varnish in many places.  Is there a press-on lettering that I
>could embed in the new varnish?  Maybe a stencil?  Ideas, anyone?

Antique Radio Supply in Tuscon, I believe.  Don't have their address
or phone number handy but can get them if you are interested.

There are other places also.  Try a large newstand/bookstore
and look in the antique book/paper section.  Check the want-ads
of the papers and/or magazines.

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

Bill Weissborn                              
Schlumberger Well Services
Data Services Region -- System Support Staff Engineer
4100 Spring Valley Rd. Suite 600            weissborn%dfwvx1@hub.sinet.slb.com
Dallas, Tx.   75244                 or try: weissborn%ntchcs@hub.sinet.slb.com
(214) 980-7924                      or    : dfwdsr::weissborn

"I got to play baseball...I got a chance to hit..."   Ted Williams
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: me@a81 (A.A. (Tony) Briggs)
Subject: Re: Text on Sharpening Tools
Organization: MOTOROLA 
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 17:29:35 GMT

In article <1993Jan06.163202.13019@news.mentorg.com>  
alanm@hpalanm.mentorg.com (Alan McIvor) writes:
> 
> I'm looking for a good reference on sharpening of hand tools. I'm  
looking
> for a discussion of techniques for sharpening different tools along with  
an
> overview of the different types of stones and/or grinding wheels.
> Any pointers would be appreciated. I will summerize the information that 
> I receive.
> 
> Alan McIvor
> alan_mcivor@mentorg.com
> (503)685-7000

I bought one from Sears, and have found it to be useful. 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: dfarrell@scfb.nwc.navy.mil (Dennis Farrell)
Subject: SEARS BANDSAW PARTS INFO NEEDED
Organization: NAWC
Distribution: USA
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 00:27:59 GMT

I have an old Sears 12" bandsaw, model 103.24280, for which Sears no longer
maintains a parts inventory.  Can anyone help me find a parts source for it?
If anyone has a similar type Sears bandsaw, please e-mail me the model number.
Hopefully I'll be able to find amongst the responses a similar but newer model
for which Sears does still maintain parts.
Thanks - in advance  --  dwf

The disclaimer disclaims any and all claims made by any disclaimee
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: STEVE.BUSSELL@OFFICE.WANG.COM ("Steve Bussell")
Subject: Norm's New Season
Organization: Mail to News Gateway at Wang Labs
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 21:55:01 GMT

For anyone in the Boston area who is interested, the fifth season of New
Yankee Workshop is scheduled to start.  It will start on Sunday, January
17th at 7:00 pm on WGBH (channel 2).  I believe the re-broadcast schedule is
Saturday at 5:00 pm on WGBH and Sunday at 8:00am on WGBX (channel 44).  This
years theme is English Country furniture.

Steve Bussell
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: tomj@monster.apd.saic.com (Tom Johnson)
Subject: RAS to trade!
Organization: SAIC, Reston, VA
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 21:22:46 GMT

It's become clear that I don't have room in my two-car woorkshop
for both a table saw and a radial arm saw.

I'd like to trade the RAS for some other tool (or tools), or, if
you insist, for ca$h.

The RAS is an oldish Sears model, very heavy-duty, in perfect working
order (it's missing a table holddown screw; I've been using a bar clamp).

I'll accept almost any offers for trade, except screwdrivers.  My inlaws
seem to think that male humans eat screwdrivers, and I've received many
for Xmas presents.
Of greatest interest are things that would fill in a modest tool
collection, like
	assorted sockets
	assorted box-end wrenches
	between-sized drill bits
	clamps
	vises
	a machinists-style toolbox
and a few other specifics like
	a 1/2", 2 or 3 HP router
	a biscuit jointer
	antique tools
	$175
By the way, the saw lives in Northern Virginia.  
Haggling is welcome; any combination of tools, supplies, and cash
will be considered.

Thanks!
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Thu, 7 Jan 1993 08:40:00 EST
From:         HUNTRESS GARY B <HUNTRESS@NPT.NUSC.NAVY.MIL>
Subject:      Wood-Mizer review

Well, the tree cuttin' guys came and dropped my neighbors cherry
tree last monday.  They limbed and chipped for a while and I was
left with two 10' logs roughly 30" in diameter.

A couple of weeks ago I posted about my difficuties in locating a
sawmill to handle these logs.  To summarize, the smaller mills are
willing to take logs from residential yards, but their blades
arent big enough (18" max cut).  The larger mills wanted damage
deposits ranging from $100.00 to $2,000.00.  Then there were
transportation logistics to consider.  Anyway, to make a long
story short I was fortunate enough to locate someone with a
Wood-Mizer portable lumbermill.

My impressions?  Its fantastic!  Heres how it works:

Two hydraulic arms scoop the log onto the bed.  The log stays
stationary and a horizontal bandsaw skims boards off the top.  It
can handle 36" by 21' logs and its very rugged and well built.
The log is maneuvered into position hydraulically and squared up
with a series of cut/rotate operations.  Then its just a matter of
deciding how thick you want each cut.  Mine were mostly 4/4 boards
about 16" wide, but I got about 6 8/4 slabs too.  The surface
finish and uniformity (lack of waviness) is excellent too.

The bandsaw is driven by a 20 HP Onan engine (quiet), the blade is
about 1 1/4" and is water cooled.  Cutting speeds vary, but I'd
say it was between 5 and 8 seconds per foot.

My cost was $360.00 and I got around 700 BF of wood.  It is now
stickered, painted, and covered.  By the time its ready to be
worked (1 year? 2 years?), hopefully my skills will have improved
enough to do it justice!

Conclusion:  I'd do it again in a minute, in fact I've already
picked out a huge shagbark hickory and a couple of nice maples.
Unfortunately they're not in my yard!!

Gary Huntress
huntress@npt.nusc.navy.mil
ghuntres@nyx.cs.du.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Plans for an Entertainment Center
From: donne+@pitt.edu (Jeffrey D Donne)
Date: 12 Jan 93 13:45:17 GMT
Organization: University of Pittsburgh

The nicest plan for an entertainment center that I've seen is
in issue #24 of "Today's Woodworker" magazine.  The plans are
given with lots of detail, and the design is very clean.
From: bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: re: Jointer vs Planer - Thanks
Date: 5 Jan 93 19:28:54 GMT
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Distribution: na
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated

G. Paul Houtz writes
> bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds) writes:
> >>    The argument is simply that the jointer is a far more useful tool.
> >
> >You've gotten no argument from me on this point, yet.
> 
>    Yet you continually debate with me about my original statement of 
>    opinion, that in my opinion one should buy a jointer before buying
>    a thickness planer.
> 
>    You are a master at splitting hairs.

You appear to do quite well at completely ignoring arguments. 

I tried emailing you, but it bounced.

I'll not post my point-by-point response to your post: perhaps by simply 
reiterating my argument I can get you to address it, instead of all
the side-show nonsense about running assmebled drawers through planers,
power jointers producing finishes as good as a hand plane, et. al.:

Many shops need *both* jointing and thickness planing capabilities. Since
it is easier to rig up another machine to perform jointing tasks than
it is to rig up another machine to perform thickness planing tasks, if
one can afford only one tool, the thickness planer is the one to buy. The
question is *not* which is more useful - the capabilities both tools 
provide are essential - the question is which one can you more easily 
replace with other tools you probably already own.


- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com

PS: If you want my point-by-point response, provide a valid email
    address. Others on the net have pointed this out to you as well.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas S. Rand)
Subject: Re: What to do after the fact [was WARNING (response to...)]
Organization: Open Software Foundation
	<C0FxtF.9K0@amd.com> <145263@lll-winken.LLNL.GOV>
Distribution: usa
Date: 7 Jan 93 13:29:27

In article <145263@lll-winken.LLNL.GOV> gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot) writes:

   ...
   will probably eliminate chances of successful reattachment.  Don't do it.
   The recommended procedure is to pack the parts in ice (quickly) and
   proceed (quickly) to the nearest ER.  Let the pros handle any solutions
   necessary.  And get someone else to drive if you can.  If you lose it
   on the freeway, fingers may be the least of your problems.

If you pack it in ice,  then make sure to put it in a sealed
plastic bag.  I believe the melting ice will contaminate it also.

--
Douglas S. Rand <drand@osf.org>		OSF/Motif Dev.
Snail:         11 Cambridge Center,  Cambridge,  MA  02142
Disclaimer:    I don't know if OSF agrees with me... let's vote on it.
Amateur Radio: KC1KJ
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: smb@research.att.com (Steven Bellovin)
Subject: Re: Fine woodworking wants in....
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 14:35:03 GMT
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories

In article <93010.17275334AEJ7D@CMUVM.BITNET>, <34AEJ7D@CMUVM.BITNET> writes:
> In article <lks96tINNkgc@exodus.Eng.Sun.COM>, coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM (Chip
> Coffin) says:
> >
> >In my product ventures, I have been talking with fine woodworking
> >about stuff, and RWW came up.
> >...
> >Could someone tell me how you can become a subscriber with just
> >a phone line?
> 
> Quick, cheap and less reliable method:  Get an account on any Public
> Access BBS, such as the various Freenets, that offers Internet and
> Usenet/Netnews services.
> 
> More costly, more reliable method:  Get an account on a commercial
> service, such as Delphi, Compu$erve, etc., that offers Internet
> and Usenet/Netnews services.

Or run your own netnews machine.  It's easy if you have a UNIX machine,
but I think you can do it with a PC as well.  All you need is a site
willing to feed you -- and amongst the collective readership of this
group, I doubt it will be hard to find a volunteer.  (Btw -- tell them
about misc.consumers.house, too; they also publish Fine Homebuilding.)
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 8 Jan 1993 07:54:38 -0800
From:         RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM
Subject:      Re: Bench Top Tablesaws

I've had very good luck with a slightly downsized "real" table saw
from  sears. (40 x 20 (with extensions) vs 40 x 27 for standard size)

With out the wings (or with just one) it works well as a bench top unit
and can be expanded later if you get more room.

Of course being sears it's not politicaly correct and you can't play
my-saw-is-better-than-your-saw with Miketa owners.

                        Ron Tye (all opinions my own)
From: fichtenbaum@desire.wright.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: dovetail bit
Date: 4 Jan 93 13:37:53 EST
Organization:  Wright State University 

I want to get a 3/4 inch dovetail bit to use in making a chest of drawers
and a candle stand.  I plan to use dovetail joints instead of dado's
in the chest and tenons in the candle stand.  Do I want a 7 degree
dovetail bit or a 14 degree dovetail bit?

Rudy Fichtenbaum
Department of Economics
Wright State University
Fichtenbaum@desire.wright.edu

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: faunt@netcom.Netcom.COM (Doug Faunt N6TQS 510-655-8604)
Subject: Re: Grizzly jointer pickup
Organization: at home, in Oakland
Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1993 22:25:54 GMT

I ordered a Grizzly G1200 drill press (200 pounds, 1 package) just
before Christmas, and requested it be delivered on a lift-gate truck,
which would be free.  It arrived two days later, in a Federal Express
van, and the driver and I carried it inside with little trouble.  It
was heavy, but I was sick at the time, too.  I unpacked it, and
carried it into the basement in pieces, with no problem.

doug
From: cokasaki+@CS.CMU.EDU (Chris Okasaki)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: AMT tools?
Date: 5 Jan 93 19:20:35 GMT
Article-I.D.: cs.C0EB2I.2n7.1
Organization: Carnegie Mellon University

Does anybody have any experience with AMT tools?  I'm considering getting
a lathe (and possibly a drill press) through them.

-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Chris Okasaki       |                          Life is NOT a zero-sum game! |
| cokasaki@cs.cmu.edu |                                                       |
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 4 Jan 1993 09:25:18 -0700
From:         BOULAN@TECHNET.NM.ORG
Subject:      Re: Ryobi & Fein Detail Sanders

I bought the Ryobi about 2 months ago and have given it some use over the
holidays on wooden toys. It works well enough but is rather noisy. I would
say that it is not meant for production work and whilt that is ok for me you
need to judge based on your requirements. I could not justify the cost of the
Fein. In fact an alternative is a finishing head attachmnet for a hand grinder
can be found in the Woodworker's Supply catalog.
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 8 Jan 1993 10:12:13 -0700
From:         Peter J Watson <MARENGO@CCIT.ARIZONA.EDU>
Subject:      Ryobi planer

I am looking for a small plane to do small stock on a limited basis. To
take 3/4' down to 1/2 or 3/8 for toys and small projects. I have tried
resawing in the past and have never been satisfied with the continuity of
my cuts.
I have looked at the Ryobi 10" plane and wondered if this would work OK. I'm
trying to keep the cost under $400 if possible, but I also don't want to
spend money on something that won't work.



THANKS!


Peter Watson
Senior Research Specialist
National Center for Neurogenic Communication Disorders
University of Arizona
Tucson, Arizona
e-mail: MARENGO@CCIT.ARIZONA.EDU
From: kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM (John Kopf,D,6305)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: If you were going to start a small wood shop...?
Date: 9 Jan 93 00:51:09 GMT
Reply-To: kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems

how about an apprentice to do the dirty work?  :-D

JK
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jon@unislc.uucp (Jon Bork)
Subject: Re: WARNING (response to...)
Reply-To: jon@unislc.UUCP (Jon Bork,PLS2,5508,,)
Organization: Unisys, Salt Lake City
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 15:10:29 GMT

In article <1993Jan6.192856.8769@cbnewsh.cb.att.com> warren@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (warren.a.montgomery) writes:
> < stuff deleted >
>
>Numerous minor cuts with chisels and screwdrivers.  Lessons: Avoid
>cheap slotted screws, they are difficult to work with and applying
>force just sets up dangerous situations.  Treat a chisel with the
>respect you would a razor blade.
>

On the slotted screwdrivers, I've given up wherever I can.
For all new woodworking I now use square drive screws and love
them. They don't slip, they start easily, they will balance on
the bit while you get them in place, etc.

I ran out of one size the other night and grabbed some slotted
screws I had to finish the job. Three scraped knuckles and
some unprintable words later, I vowed to order before I 
got low next time. Slotted screws just don't cut it 
compared to square or robertson drive screws.

-- 

Jon Bork
Phone: (801) 594-5508	Fax: (801) 594-6708	OFIS:	JEB1/CORP
internet: jon@unislc.slc.unisys.com  -or- unislc!jon
From: tonyb@juliet.ll.mit.edu ( Tony Berke )
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Ryobi planer
Date: 11 Jan 93 18:48:13 GMT
Organization: M.I.T. Lincoln Lab - Group 43

>I am looking for a small plane to do small stock on a limited basis. To
>take 3/4' down to 1/2 or 3/8 for toys and small projects. I have tried
>resawing in the past and have never been satisfied with the continuity of
>my cuts.  I've looked at the Ryobi 10" plane and wondered if this would work OK?

I owned a Ryobi AP-10 until recently, and thought it was pretty nice.  The blades
are easy to change and adjust, it leaves a nice finish, and it's cheap.  My only
beef (and this seems to be true of all planers, at least the portables) is that
you need to adjust it very carefully to avoid end-snipe, and even then, the only
real way to totally avoid it is to run each piece of stock butted up against the
end of the previous piece -- which is fine, until you've planed every board within
reach, chopped up your workbench and made it thinner, run your cat through the thing,
etc.

Anyway, I now use the Jet 12" planer (which my shopmate has), and have sold
my Ryobi.  Aside from 2" in extra capacity, I don't see anything to recommend
the Jet -- its blade setup isn't as convenient, it's an even more prolific sniper,
and it's just as noisy.  One of these days, We'll sell the Jet and get a nice
heavy 15" floor model.

Tony
From: dgolber@aero.org (Dave Golber)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Quality of tools.  Was: Re: AMT tools?
Date: 6 Jan 1993 16:41:05 GMT
Organization: The Aerospace Corporation
NNTP-Posting-Host: midnight.aero.org

>
>I bought a 12" AMT bench mount drill press.  It turned out to be too small,
>so I sold it to a freind and bought a 16.5" Delta Floor mount (last week!).
>
>The AMT looks a LOT like the Delta (Taiwan probably used a Delta as the
>model for the castings).   The AMT arrived in a less assembled state then
>the Delta did (it took 1.5 hours to assemble AMT, 0.5 hours Delta).
>
>The Delta is a tiny bit better finished then the AMT. Other than that,
>I don't see a heck of a lot of difference (yet).
>
>After comparing the difference I don't see any reason to hesitate
>recommending the AMT drill press.
>
>Their lathe accesories are cheap, and they are cheap.  I bought the 
>4 jaw chuck, and it works.   

There's a point to be made: There are things about tool quality that
cannot merely be seen, and that go beyond "it works".

For both drill presses and lathes and lathe chucks, there's a number
called the "total indicated runout".  Chuck a cylindrical rod
in the chuck, put your dial indicator on it, turn it (BY HAND!)
and read the total runout.

Yes, you pay for this.  And yes, it affects what comes from your tools ...
like "Why does my drill press vibrate?"  or "Why does it break bits
when I drill 1/16" holes" or ...

Dave Golber
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking