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Date:         Mon, 11 Jan 1993 09:34:54 -0500
From:         "Wile E. Coyote" <BBHULSEY@LIFE.UAMS.EDU>
Subject:      Re: Text on Sharpening Tools

Greetings Alan!

>I'm looking for a good reference on sharpening of hand tools. I'm looking
>for a discussion of techniques for sharpening different tools along with an
>overview of the different types of stones and/or grinding wheels.
>Any pointers would be appreciated. I will summerize the information that
>I receive.

A book that I thought really addressed these questions well is Patrick
Spielman's "Sharpening Basics".  It's probably pretty commonly available, but
I know you can get it from Woodcraft (800-535-4482).  Price is $9.95.  It
talks about all of the different kinds of stones, grinding wheels, strops,
abrasives, etc. used for sharpening and how to care for them and use them to
sharpen knives, saw blades, router bits, drill bits, chisels, plane irons, and
just about everything else that has a sharp edge on it.  One thing that it
does not cover is the sharpening of carbide saw blades, which is one thing I'd
kind of like to know something about.  At any rate, it's a very good guide and
quite comprehensive.  Hope this helps!

.......
:  o/ : Bruce Hulsey
: <|  : Univ. of Arkansas for Medical Sciences
: / > : internet: bbhulsey@life.uams.edu
:.....: bitnet:   bbhulsey@uams
From: kl@cveng120.veheng.det (Keith L)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Power Switch on RAS ???
Date: 11 Jan 93 18:17:36 GMT
Reply-To: kl@cveng120.veheng.det
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.

Confessions of a Ryobi RAS junkie:

It's simple really..  First, postion the workpiece.  Then hold the saw handle with one hand while turning the switch on with the other.  Then use the switch hand to hold the workpiece in place.  If you can't take your hand off the workpiece to operate the switch without the workpiece moving out of place, you probably should not be operating the saw.  Support and/or clamp the workpiece in place so that it will not move unless you want it to.  Make a larger table or use a roller support. 

The cut should be made by pulling the motor carriage towards you. The idea is to keep the blade behind the fence as much as possible (and thereby away from your extremities).  Try adjusting the carriage lock screw so that there is some resistance when you try to move the carriage.  This will help you control the saw movement.  Use a straight arm (locked elbow) stance and control the saw using shoulder and body movement.  And DON'T EVER, EVER, EVER try to cut pressure-treated 2 X 6's that are still wet in t


he middle.
From: tonyb@juliet.ll.mit.edu ( Tony Berke )
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Push Sticks  (was Re: WARNING (response to...))
Date: 6 Jan 93 17:33:47 GMT
	<Jan06.155708.33273@yuma.ACNS.ColoState.EDU>
Organization: M.I.T. Lincoln Lab - Group 43

In article <Jan06.155708.33273@yuma.ACNS.ColoState.EDU> mglacy@lamar.ColoState.EDU () writes:

   ....Various people relate their table saw accidents......

     As a regular 'pusher,' I subjectively feel less in control with sticks,
   but I always tell myself that fingers are more important than a
   sense of control.   Any thoughts?
   =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-==-=-=-=
   Mike Lacy, Sociology Dept.      CSU and I have a deal: We don't take
   Colo. State Univ.               responsibility for one another's opinions.
   Fort Collins CO 80523           voice (303) 491-6721

I was just thinking about this in the shop the other night.  I'm
thinking of glueing some rubber sheeting to the bottoms of my pushers
-- I'm hoping that durring ripping the rubber will give me the ability
to apply motive force *and* keep the piece up against the fence.  I've
noticed that my rips tend to wander when I use sticks, and I feel like
there is actually more of a chance of an accident due to the piece
coming off the rip fence and binding against the blade.  Granted, my
fingers won't be in the way, but I don't want to get konked on the
head by a 2x2 piece of oak, either!

I now use an Artisan TS for just about everything, but I started out
with a Sears RAS.  After about the first time I did a narrow rip with
the thing, I went out and bought a set of hold-down wheels.  These
were the yellow pointy hockey pucks with a ratchet mechanism in them.
They make ripping a very relaxing experience, and improve the quality
of cut (and blade life) to boot.  I intend to mount them (or something
similar) onto my TS's rip fence soon.  I've found that for most
operations, the addition of the hold-down wheels makes the use of a
push-stick unneccesary, and/or easier -- it may have been a false
sense of security, but I was confident enough in the security of the
wheels' grip to feel comfortable pushing a long board 2/3 of the way
through the saw, and then walk around to the outfeed side and tug the
board the rest of the way through.  This allowed my to keep my hands
miles away from the blade, and provide the board with good guidance
throughout the entire cut.

Happy hacking,

Tony
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Norm's New Season
Date: 12 Jan 93 18:17:06 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

Steven Johnson writes:
>
>I've been busy converting my European flurbigator to three phase power.
>I've pretty much got it working now, it was just a matter of determining
>the right capacitance value.  

Oh, it's even easier than that, you just need to reverse the polarity
of the neutron flow.


Any Dr. Who fans out there listening ;-)?

Dave
-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
"I look back with some satisfaction on what an idiot I was when I was 25,
 but when I do that, I'm assuming I'm no longer an idiot." - Andy Rooney
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: robmack@bsc.no (Robert MacKinnon)
Subject: New wood drying technique (aritcle from New Scientist)
Organization: Bergen Scientific Centre, Bergen, NORWAY
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 11:56:44 GMT

The following was copied verbatim from _New Scientist_ magazine, 12 December
1992, issue #1851.  I have asked permission from IPC Magazines Ltd. to
distribute this article on the Internet in hopes that it may be informative
to others.

How listening to wood saves money
---------------------------------

LISTENING carefully to hardwood as it is kiln dried can help prevent it
being spoilt by cracks that open up if it dries too fast.  Researchers
in Tasmania have shown that sensitive microphones can pick up a
characteristic sound pattern caused by microcracking, which occurs long
before serious cracks appear.

Previous attempts to listen for the sound of splitting have proved useless
because it usually occurs too suddenly for drying conditions to be modified
in time to save the wood.  Now James Booker, Peter Doe and Arch Oliver of
the University of Tasmania have found that distinctive sounds are emitted
well before final cracking.  They liken the process to rope being pulled
apart: initially weaker fibres break under tension, giving off small amounts
of energy, but the whole rope only breaks when the majority of fibres part
suddenly.

Hardwood may either be dried slowly for about 12 months in the open air, or
rapidly in kilns over five or six weeks at temperatures up to 50 degrees C
and high humidity.  Much of the wood splits as moisture is driven off more
quickly from outer  sections of a board than from its interior.  Kiln drying
renders about 70 percent of each load useless for furniture construction,
cutting its value from more than 900 Pounds Sterling per cubic metre to about
200 Pounds Sterling per cubic metre.

The Australian Research Council has awarded a 125,000 Pound Sterling grant for
the research, which is coordinated through the Australian Furniture Research
and Development Institute in Launceston, Tasmania.

Using data from numerous drying runs, the group has constructed a  mathematical
model of the drying process which matches the moisture content of the wood
with the sounds it emits.  The noises have proved so consistent that the 
researchers can predict how a batch of timber will dry just by mopnitoring its
first few days in the kiln.  With this information, operators can modify the
kiln's humidity adn temperature long before there is a danger of splitting.  
The researchers hope to begin commercial trials of the technique early next
year.

Garry Davison, Hobart.
--
Robert MacKinnon,    UNIX Support | Internet/Email: robmack@bsc.no
Bergen Environmental Sciences and | 		    robmack at nobscvm
Solution Centre,  Bergen,  NORWAY | Phone:          +47-5-544618
******************************************************************
*  All typographical errors in the above document are not errors *
*     They merely illustrate new ways of spelling those words    *
******************************************************************
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Thu, 7 Jan 1993 09:55:30 -0500
From:         "Wile E. Coyote" <BBHULSEY@LIFE.UAMS.EDU>
Subject:      Re: Another door question

Greetings!

Phil Stone writes:

>I posted a couple of weeks ago asking advice about replacing an
>exterior door on my house.  The door is of non-standard size, and
>I am more concerned about weather-tightness than security.
>
>I originally planned to make a tongue-and-groove plank door, but
>a few respondents warned me that wood movement would be a big
>problem, especially since the door is exposed to outside weather.
>So I'm now resigned to a plywood sandwich design, but can't figure
>out how to edge the door to make it weathertight.  I know the
>outside edges of the plywood need to be protected in some way...
>
>Any suggestions?

If the door you're trying to replace is smaller than standard size, just buy a
solid-core door and cut it to size.  These can be had rather inexpensively,
especially if it's got a big scratch or chunk taken out of it.  This, of
course, is all the better for you if it's in a place that you're going to cut
off as scrap anyway.

I recall seeing a compilation of Fine Homebuilding articles somewhere (like
the series that Fine Woodworking does, e.g. "FWW on Planes and Chisels", etc.)
that addressed door building.  I think it was called "Fine Homebuilding on
Doors and Windows" or something like that.

.......
:  o/ : Bruce Hulsey
: <|  : Univ. of Arkansas for Medical Sciences
: / > : internet: bbhulsey@life.uams.edu
:.....: bitnet:   bbhulsey@uams
From: twl10@ccc.amdahl.com (Tom Littauer)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: WARNING (response to...)
Date: 6 Jan 93 04:05:33 GMT
Reply-To: twl10@JUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Tom Littauer)
Distribution: na
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

In article <1993Jan5.180221.10596@adobe.com> bennett@adobe.com writes:
>Jon Bork writes
>> I spent some time wondering about the safe way to make a cut
>> when the cut is too small for the guard and the fence. My Delta
>> guard requires that my Biesemeyer fence can't be set less than 
>> 3/4" from the blade. I was cutting a featherboard with 1/8" 
>> feathers.
>
>With the fence so close to the blade, you could rig up a guard that's 
>mounted to the fence, like on a router table.

This comment reminded me that the guard on my Delta contractor's saw
lifts vertically enough that it can sit on the top of my Biesemeyer
fence. Granted, it's not *AS* guarded, but it makes me less nervous
than when I have to go bareback. I've ripped as close as 3/16"
recently, and I think I've cut some 1/8" or 3/32" banding on it this way.

As usual, Your Mileage May Vary.

Have fun,
Tom
-- 
Tom Littauer at Amdahl M/S 278, PO Box 3470, Sunnyvale CA 94088-3470 USA
+1 408 737 5056     twl10@juts.ccc.amdahl.com     twl10@amail.amdahl.com
I'll tell you when I'm speaking as Amdahl's Spokesman - usually I'm not.
V'z n fgrnygu-grpuabybtl rapelcgrq .fvtangher ivehf - TBGPUN!!!
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: schnable@cbnewsc.cb.att.com (andrew.schnable)
Subject: Re: Transferring chip carving designs to wood
Organization: AT&T
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 20:48:24 GMT

From article <1993Jan6.175255.191@ncar.ucar.edu>, by jweiss@paintbrush.cgd.ucar.edu (Jeffrey Weiss):
> In article <1993Jan6.165329.11269@wuecl.wustl.edu> jab3@cec2.wustl.edu (John Alonzo Breen) writes:
> 
>>I've been doing a little chip carving lately.  To me, the most tedious
>>part of the project is transferring the design to the wood 
> 
>>If anyone has any improvements to this technique, I'd like to hear
>>them. 
>>-- 
>>John A. Breen                   |
>>jab3@cec1.wustl.edu             | This space unintentionally left blank
> 
> You may be interested in a method my wife uses to transfer photocopies
> to fabric and paper.  I don't know how well it will work with wood,
> however.  Lay the photocopy (the original laser print may also work)
> face down on the wood and brush solvent over the photocopy.  The
> solvent dissolves the ink which is then tranfered to the material
> below.  Also, the image comes out reversed so you will have to deal
> with that.
> 
> --
> Jeff
> jweiss@ncar.ucar.edu

I was playing around the other day carving wooden blocks out of some
scrap - I did my design on the computer, printed it, then tacked the
design to the wood block with the inked side towards the wood. I then
pouneded on the paper with a hammer, and the image transfered quite
nicely to the wood block!  

a.schnable
From: fredel@babble.Eng.Sun.COM (Fred Elliott)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Will oil leach?
Date: 12 Jan 1993 23:53:40 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Distribution: world
Reply-To: fredel@babble.Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: babble


I'm just on the final legs (no pun intended) of sanding
a quilt rack that I'm making for my wife.  I saw a rack
similar to it in a store and decided to make one.

The one in the store was made of Poplar and has a Tung
oil finish on it.  I decided to use the same type of
wood and oil.

A friend of mine said I might have trouble with the oil
rubbing off onto the quilts my wife will hang on the
rack.

Is this something I can prevent and still use the Tung
oil for the finish?

fred.elliott@sun.com
From: kl@cveng120.veheng.det (Keith L)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Norm's New Season
Date: 8 Jan 93 17:52:38 GMT
Reply-To: kl@cveng120.veheng.det
Organization: Lukas Woodshop

Norm, being a self-professed power tool junkie, has made the point that he tries to use as many power tools as possible.  In fact, when he made a turned candlestand the only hand tool he said he used on the whole project was a utility knife.  I would imagine donations from major tool manufacturers help him in this regard. (I know they would help ME!)
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Grizzly jointer pickup
Date: 7 Jan 93 20:39:46 GMT
Organization: LLNL

In article <WOODWORK%93010714033740@IPFWVM.BITNET>, ALEX@NKI.BITNET (Bill Alexander) writes:
> 
> Two months to the day after ordering, my Grizzly 6" jointer has arrived at
> the local terminal, where the dispatcher has almost conviced me its easier
> to pick it up than to arrange to meet the truck at home.
> 
> Grizzly jointer owners: am I making a big mistake? He says two boxes, total
> weight 240 pounds. Doesn't *sound* too bad. BTW, I've got a 4-door sedan.
> 

He's probably right.  If the truck arrives, you still have to get it down from 
a four foot high bed.  If you borrow a pickup, they'll load it at the
terminal with a forklift and it will be lower.  You can probably get away
by shoving it off the bed, letting it tilt down onto a robust cart, and
wheeling it into your shop.
From: Andrew.Cohill@vtssi.vt.edu (Andrew Michael Cohill)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Getting started woodcarving
Date: 7 Jan 93 15:07:18 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Fire in the Mountain
X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1.1d13
X-XXMessage-ID: <A771B25A6801047C@thea.cc.vt.edu>
X-XXDate: Thu, 7 Jan 93 10:11:38 GMT

You did not say what kind of carving that you wanted to do, and this can 
make all the difference.  Most of the books on carving are, in my 
opinion, pretty anal-retentive, in that they try to teach you how to make 
things that the author likes to make (like knobbits), rather than trying 
to teach the proper use of the tools.  The Fine Woodworking book is 
better than many, but it is focused heavily on the production of 
ornamental work.

Some hints:  You have to learn to sharpen your tools.  Dull carving tools 
turn the whole process into a chore.

Don't buy used tools from flea markets or homeowner types.  The quality 
is likely to be very low;  they will be hard to sharpen, hard to keep 
sharp, and in general, a pain to use.

You only need 4 or 5 tools and possibly a mallet to get started, and you 
can buy top quality tools from places like Garrett-Wade or the woodworker 
mail order place in West Virginia (??? I have the catalogue at home).  
Try a good art supply store in your area, as they may stock good grade 
sculpting tools.  I buy mine from Sculpture House in New York City;  they 
sell all their tools in a "sharp" condition and with handles attached, 
although you can get them without handles, too.

Nothing you buy in a hardware store is suitable for carving.

Don't waste your money on cheap tools.  It's one area where it really 
makes a big difference to buy the best, and if you shop carefully, you 
could get started for about $100.

Andrew
From: kl@cveng120.veheng.det (Keith L)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: April 1987 issue of WOOD Magazine
Date: 11 Jan 93 20:44:21 GMT
Reply-To: kl@cveng120.veheng.det
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.

In article 2352@cliff.se.hou.compaq.com, stevep@sparky.se.hou.compaq.com (Steve Pinn) writes:
>In article <1993Jan8.150831.8466@mloeff01.cpchq.cpc.gmeds.com>, kl@cveng120.veheng.det (Keith L) writes:
>|> 


Steve, did something not make it through the net?  Or are you just teasing?
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Ryobi JP-155 tapped holes
Date: 12 Jan 93 18:34:00 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.
Originator: davek@puma

The Ryobi JP-155 Jointer Planer has 8 holes tapped in the base
(4 on the outfield table side, 4 on the infield side) that are used
to mount the roller extension.  I'd like to build my own extensions,
but I need to know the size of these tapped holes (i.e. the size of
the bolt that fits the holes) to mount the extensions.  Before I go
through the hell of calling an authorized service center, I was 
wondering if anyone out there in net-land was privy to such info?

Thanks,
Dave
-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
"I look back with some satisfaction on what an idiot I was when I was 25,
 but when I do that, I'm assuming I'm no longer an idiot." - Andy Rooney
From: byennaco@divet.East.Sun.COM (Robert Yennaco - Sun BOS Software)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Re: WARNING (response to...)
Date: 6 Jan 1993 22:07:23 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Distribution: world
Reply-To: byennaco@divet.East.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: divet.east.sun.com

Regarding the comment about Norm's bad safety practices:

> he gets his hands over 
> the cutter when dadoing or jointing.  I always feel the hair on my neck rise
> as I watch him.  But the guy still has ten fingers.  I guess he's lucky.

I questioned Norm precisely about this a couple of years ago at a trade
show.  He admitted that because he does this kind of work everyday of
his life, it becomes second nature to him and he inadvertently forgets
that at times there is an audience watching his every move.  He then
proceeded to wave his fingers and said, "But, you'll note that I still
have all my fingers."

Regarding putting his hands over the blade when dadoing, he simply said
that he feels safer this way, knowing that the blade is set to not cut
thru the full thickness of the stock, rather than rigging up something
that might get in his way.

Newsgroups: rec.skiing
From: jthomas@brtph98.bnr.ca (James Thomas P215)
Subject: Re: Anyone take their camcorder skiing this season? (hints wanted)
Organization: BNR Inc. RTP, NC
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 23:39:45 GMT


I have the Canon UC-1, which is one of the smallest video cameras
you can buy.  I have not been able to find a place to buy the waterproof
housing, but I have taken the "naked" UC-1 out 3-4 times without any dew
problems.  My most watchable footage has come from me skiing backwards
with my subject starting 25-50 yards up the hill skiing toward me.
I can shoot until they overtake me and then spin around and catch them
as they ski down in front.  This helps mitigate the lighting problems
as I can stay closer to my subject for a longer period of time.  Of
course, I have to stay on easy terrain to be able to ski backwards
and then turn around, but my subjects have usually been my parents and
the "mountains" have been in the Mid-Atlantic, so this hasn't been
a problem.

I second the opinion about the necessity of a thin glove.  I filmed
an entire run and almost got frostbite.  (Fortunately, this was
Massanutten ("Mass-of-nuthin") Virginia, where an entire run takes
less than 2 minutes even if you're skiing backwards).

Jim Thomas

Newsgroups: rec.skiing
From: wwalker@qualcomm.com (Bill Walker)
Subject: Re: tire chains
Followup-To: rec.skiing
Organization: Qualcomm, Inc.
Distribution: ca
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 01:44:42 GMT

In article <1993Jan6.223602.6241@nas.nasa.gov>, blake@wk60.nas.nasa.gov
(Matthew W. Blake) wrote:
> 
> I have a 1988 Toyota LandCruiser that I acquired only 8 months ago.  I've
> never had a 4x4 before.  It's got new Goodyear Wrangler AT tires.  My question
> is 2 fold:
> 
> 1) Does anyone know California/Nevada snow chain requirements for me;
>    specifically when "chains are required" is posted do I need them or
>    can I pass through in 4WD with only all terrain tires, not snow tires?

Usually the signs say "Chains required.  4WD with snow tires OK", or
something to that effect.  Check the sidewalls of your tires.  Somewhere,
there'll be a mark that says "M+S".  That stands for "Mud and Snow", which
means they're snow tires in the eyes of the law.

> 
> 2) If I need chains, do I put them on front or rear?

Well, the 4X4 snowplows put 'em on all four...

But if you really need chains with 4x4, you probably don't want to be
there.

----------
Bill Walker - WWalker@qualcomm.com - QUALCOMM, Inc., San Diego, CA
All opinions expressed are mine, and do not reflect those of my employer.
"First thing we do, we kill all the lawyers." - Shakespeare
From: dcoatney@hpcupt1.cup.hp.com (Doug Coatney)
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 17:58:38 GMT
Subject: === MIDWEEK SOUTH TAHOE SPECIAL ACCOMMODATIONS ===
Organization: Hewlett Packard, Cupertino