HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car

I own a Mazda Miata.  As you may expect there are not enough room to place
subwoofers, amplifiers, you know fancy stuff.  The only place to place speakers
are the 6.5" opening at the doors and, suprisingly, both seats have place for
two 3" speakers each.  I own a Sony CDX-7560 in-dash CD-player and a XE-70 
Passive Equalizer.  

Does anyone knows/had a similar experience with its Miata?

Do you have any sugestions on the design?  I want to get the most from the
tight space.  The following are designs I am considering.  Any suggestions
will be great: amplifiers ratings, speakers, crossovers, component speakers
systems vs. coaxial speakers, tweeters (ie. MDS) instead of full range on the
seats, etc.  Sorry, no place for subwoofers.


         		____________
         		|          |
         		| CDX-7560 |
         		____________
              	 	     |
              		     |
         		____________
         		|          |
         		|   XE-70  |
         		____________
                         |       |
                       --         --
                      |             |
                 _________       __________
                |  100w.  |     | 120w.    |
                | Amplif. |     | Amplif.  |
                ___________     ____________
                 |       |       |        |
              ------   -----     |        |
              |    |   |   |    DOOR SPEAKERS 6.5" 
              SEAT SPEAKERS        COAXIAL, MAXXIAL
                   3"-4"
                FULL RANGE

             or MDS TWEETERS    or COMPONENT SPEAKERS

            (Parallel or Series
             connection? )
             
          

         		____________
         		|          |
         		| CDX-7560 |
         		____________
              	 	     |
              		     |
         		____________
         		|          |
         		|   XE-70  |
         		____________
                         |       |
                       --         --
                      |             |
                 __________________________
                |    ?? watts. 4-channel   |
                |       Amplifier          |
                ____________________________
                 |       |       |        |
              ------   -----     |        |
              |    |   |   |    DOOR SPEAKERS 6.5" 
              SEAT SPEAKERS        COAXIAL, MAXXIAL
                   3"-4"
                FULL RANGE

             or MDS TWEETERS    or COMPONENT SPEAKERS

            (Parallel or Series
             connection? )



Regards,

Miguel Ortiz
From: exucad@exu.ericsson.se (Charles Dobbins)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: CLASS A/MOSFET
Date: 14 Dec 92 22:30:19 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Ericsson Network Systems, Inc.
X-Disclaimer: This article was posted by a user at Ericsson.
              Any opinions expressed are strictly those of the
              user and not necessarily those of Ericsson.


>Secondly, this Class A is really getting to me.  Class A amps are almost
>unknown in the home audio world, and, in car audio-land, completely
>ficticious.  (This is if I remember correctly)  Considering the amount of
>power they burn off as heat, they are completely unsuitable for car audio.

I could be (and probably am) wrong but in the manuals for my Orion 225's 
they describe them as Class A amps. In the past I have owned home amps that
were Class A and I knew of a number of manu. that offered them, although they
were typically very expensive and hot.

>Ok, ok.  One company does make a megabuck, tubed, Class A car 
amplifier,>but we can probably safely ignore it's existance.

>  - Cal

>PS: I could be completely wrong on all of this.

>-- 
>--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>  - Cal Demaine                   | "You shot him in the back!"                 
>    (demaine@bode.ee.ualberta.ca) |    "His back was to me!"  - El Diablo    
>--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Charles Dobbins                                 Ericsson Network Systems, Inc
Systems Programmer                                            P.O. Box 833875
                                                    Richardson, TX 75083-3875
                                                               (214) 997-0982
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: vincent@garnet.berkeley.edu (Vincent J. Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: For Sale Infinity Kappa Series 6x9
Date: 14 Dec 1992 02:21:37 GMT
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: garnet.berkeley.edu

FOR SALE!!
I have a set of Infinity 6x9 Kappa Series speakers for sale.
They are brand new. Great sounding. Asking $180. 
Email please if you are interested. Thanks.

Organization: Senior, Electrical and Computer Engineering, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 22:57:46 -0500 
From: Amit Likhyani <al1x+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: ppi install hint

For those of you interested:

    PPI amps come with an annoying wiring harness for the speaker
outputs.  They put this ugly 22 gauge wire in the harness.

    Well, I could not stand to look at it, so I noticed that you could
pop the harness open with a flat head screw driver.  Once it is open,
you can get your speaker wire in and close it back up and then you have
a cool looking harness.

    Most of you have probably already done this many times in your
sleep, but this could be of some use to someone.  I am sure other
manufacturers harnesses are similar.

Mit
From: ae454@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Paul Simundza)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: -[ Looking for Rockford Specs! ]-
Date: 18 Dec 1992 19:49:02 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: ae454@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Paul Simundza)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc10.ins.cwru.edu


does anyone have the specs for 10' Rockford Punch PRO series, the
older SP series without the inverted dust caps? I have the 4 ohm
ones. 

I called a local area Rockford dealer and they said they would give
me the specs for $29.95.....what a rip off! just for the numbers!,
man for how much I paid for these I should atleast be able to get
specs!

-- 
Paul Simundza                  | Cleve.Freenet: ae454@cwru.edu
                               | Compuserve: 71441.217@compuserve.com
                               | CSU(Internet): pauls@madnick.cba.csuohio.edu
From: Berger@cup.portal.com (Mark - Berger)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Diversity tuners and the second antenna
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 92 20:36:45 PST
Organization: The Portal System (TM)
Distribution: usa

I have just lost a Sony 7500 head unit to a thief, and am now selecting 
replacement equipment.  I like everything about the Sony except for what
I feel is excessive multipath and such marginal tuner problems, so I am 
considering one of the newer units with a diversity tuner.

Anyone have any experience comparing diversity and non-diversity (but 
otherwise identical) tuners?

If I go for such a unit, what type of second antenna might I use, and where 
should I put it.  I have an 88 Honda Accord with a factory antenna extending
out of the left A-pillar.
From: Peter Harris <pharris@ucscm.ucsc.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: CD in 88 Mazda 929
Date: 17 Dec 1992 16:32:36 GMT
Organization: University of California Santa Cruz
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: twilight-mac07.ucsc.edu
X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1.1d13
X-XXMessage-ID: <A755ECD08A010257@twilight-mac07.ucsc.edu>
X-XXDate: Thu, 17 Dec 92 17:37:36 GMT

This is a repost, since my messages have been
getting garbled:

I have a 1988 Mazda 929 and would like to
install an in dash CD player, keeping the
existing cassette receiver amp, an speakers.
I have been told that there is an aux input on
the radio, so it seems to me that all I need
would be the CD player and a selector switch. It
looks like I could take out the ashtray & IUd
have room for the player. Any advice/experience
reports/recommendations would be greatly
appreciated.
Peter Harris
University of California Santa Cruz

UI may be mistaken, but IUm never wrong.
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: stormoen@plains.NoDak.edu (Michael D. Stormoen)
Subject: Re: are alternators too weak for amps?
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1992 10:08:58 GMT
Organization: North Dakota Higher Education Computing Network

In article <Bz4wv3.IKp@acsu.buffalo.edu> v125p7ae@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (JEFF) writes:
>I have a 1987 Acura Integra.  Recently, I installed a
>Bazooka 6 1/2" with built in 40 watt amp (about 3
 ** Stuff Deleted**  
>Is it possible the alternator
>isn't strong enough to power the built in amp?
>thanx in advance

It is possible, but not probable under these circumstances. I've installed
amps (100W+) in two similar cars without any trouble.  It is possible your
battery is just getting old and too much power is going directly into 
recharging and therefore not being used efficiently.

When your car is idiling sometime, really pump up the bass and see if your
lights dim with the beats.  If so, you may have some electical problems.

I have a small 87 Nova with three alpine amps rated at 380 W each, a 15" sub,
two 10" mid-subs, 5.5" Boston's, and 1" Bostons.  My car didn't have as much
trouble as you described.  (I recently installed a second battery mostly for
show).

Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: jsc52962@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Jeffrey S. Curtis)
Subject: Re: How many remote leads?
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 00:02:16 GMT

In article <17565@umd5.umd.edu> ui68@linus.umd.edu (Bill Kyte) writes:
}   I have a small question for the net.  How many leads can you run off of 
}the head units remote wire? I want to run two or three amps and don't know
}what to do with the other two remote leads from the amps.
}Anyone's help would be greatly appreciated.

As I believe I found out the hard way, the remote lead from the head
unit is simply attached directly to the +12V source into the head
unit and is switched off of the unit's power on/off switch.  In other
words, you can run as many remote leads off of it as you want.  After
all, each remote lead for an amp should only be taking around 100mA
or so.  The only thing you need to be careful of is that you don't
exceed the fuse rating on the +12V line into your head unit.  For
example, if your head unit's fuse is 5A, and your head unit normally
draws 1A, and each remote lead absorbs 100mA, you could run 40 amps
off of your head unit's remote lead.  :-)

Jeff
-- 
Jeffrey S. Curtis sidewinder@uiuc.edu | "Resplendent and full again, they revel
 The Power of 37  free2207 at uiucvmd | in their role as self-appointed critics
   Jensen - Polk - Sansui - Proton    | of the establishment..."
 Sony - StreetWires - Sanyo - Sennet  |   -- INXS _Welcome to Wherever You Are_
From: kirk@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Kirk Lindstrom)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 17:49:50 GMT
Subject: Re: Re: Class A MOSFET Power Amp for sale...
Organization: Shredding the water of SF Bay, HP-OCD
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car

Bolt is in fact a "Class A" amplifier, but my guess is it is a reference
to their input stage in the hopes of fooling people.  A true class-A
output amp for car audio is ludicrous.  Next we'll get tubes!  I
considered BOLT when I first got the idea to put some good sound in my
van.  They are known to put out alot of power, but I don't think they
are "high-end".  I've seen them in flea-markets and corner discount
stores for $160 new.

Kirk out
From: system@hale.cts.com (System Administration)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Fix scratch in CD?
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 92 23:59:24 PST
Organization: Hale Telecommunications Inc.

Steve Anthony Nilsen <sn1k+@andrew.cmu.edu> writes:

> I have just a small nick in a favorite CD that causes my car CD player to
> mistrack one certain song.  The CD plays fine in home CD players, but it's
> enough to confuse the one in my car.  Is there any way to slightly polish
> this out?  It always mistracks about 50 seconds into the song and takes
> like 20 more to get past the scratch unless I cue it ahead.  The nick is real
> small, like the size of a fingernail clipping.  Is there something I can use 
> fill it slightly?


DiscWasher sell just such a kit now, we have it at the store.

I know nothing about it, I havn't used it, though I have a disc I'd like 
to restore, I may get it just to see if it works.

It consists of a paste they you rub on, let dry and rub off, repeat as 
needed.  I'm guessing it strips off a layer on the disk each time.

I have used Westley's Black Magic on a disk nick before and it worked,
Westley's is just thick silicone that I use on my trucks tires and 
bumpers for that nice wet look.  :)

See your local automotive supply shop or high end stereo shop.
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car,rec.woodworking
From: tbigham@shearson.com (Tim Bigham)
Subject: Re: Fix scratch in CD?
Organization: Lehman Brothers, NY
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 21:17:43 GMT

In article <If_JRdS00YUoQRglIa@andrew.cmu.edu> Steve Anthony Nilsen <sn1k+@andrew.cmu.edu> writes:
>I have just a small nick in a favorite CD that causes my car CD player to
>mistrack one certain song.  The CD plays fine in home CD players, but it's
>enough to confuse the one in my car.  Is there any way to slightly polish
>this out?  It always mistracks about 50 seconds into the song and takes
>like 20 more to get past the scratch unless I cue it ahead.  The nick is really
>small, like the size of a fingernail clipping.  Is there something I can use to
>fill it slightly?
>
>Steve

Have you tried spackle? Also, try sanding with the grain using 400 grit paper and finishing
with several coats of polyurethane. 

;^)

Tim

--
Timothy J. Bigham			| All opinions expressed above are my own
Lehman Brothers, Inc.			| and should not be construed as those of 
AMEX Tower, World Financial Center	| my employer.
New York, N.Y. 				| 
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: ehawrysh@bcars6e7.bnr.ca (Evan Hawrysh)
Subject: Discovery: the Alpine "pause" wires 
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Ottawa, Canada
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 92 21:49:27 GMT

This was discussed awhile back, but if you're like me,
you were confused over the difference between the 
pink/white "audio mute" lead and the brown/white "in pause"
lead.

I got a little ambitious today and armed with 12V, did some
experimentation. The head unit was an Alpine 7903S CD tuner.
Here's how it goes:

pink/white: applying 12V puts the unit into pause mode as long
as 12V stays applied; one the 12V is removed, the unit goes back
to playing.

brown/white: this wire is not documented in the owners manual, and
is part of a two-piece harness, but only has a wire on one of the
harness pieces. Applying a 12V pulse puts the unit into pause mode
and cuts off power to the remote out lead (ie your other components
shut off; on the pink/white, the remote out stayed at 12V). The
unit stays in pause mode even with the 12V removed from the line.
You must manually select CD/tuner for the unit to start playing again.

Well, that's it. BTW, the reason I had my unit out was because I had
to install a relay for the remote out lead; for some reason, the line
stopped driving component turn-ons (two amps and a xover, current draw
~220 ma); it would drop to 0V when I attempted to turn on the components.
Installing a relay cured it. Does anyone have any ideas as to why this
would suddenly happen (its been fine for the last 6 months)?

Evan

Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: kevins@eng.auburn.edu (Kevin Sullivan)
Subject: Re: connecting high power headunit to amp
Organization: Auburn University Engineering
Distribution: usa
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1992 17:23:37 GMT

Radio Shack has a car stereo book that shows how to do this
using a voltage divider.  All you need is two resisters for 
each channel.
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: bgan@bmerh136.bnr.ca (Bruce Gan)
Subject: Tape dilemma...
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 92 19:27:28 GMT

O.K. folks, here's the scenario...

I have a Nakamichi CR-3A deck which has Dolby B and C.  It also has
an Eq. selector as 120us or 70us.  I have lately been using TDK-SAX
tapes quite happily (recording with Dolby C at 70us).

My car deck has Dolby B and plays everything back at 120us (I think).
It also selects the tape type automatically but 'reads' my chrome TDK
SAX tapes as metal.  Because of this, normal tapes actually sound better
than chrome ones in my car.

I'm going to get my deck optimized soon (free within first year of purchase)
and I'm not sure which tape to optimize to.  Barring the purchase of a
new car stereo, what should I do?  Should I use metal tapes and record
them with Dolby B at 120us?  Should I use normal tapes (optimize my
deck to NORMALS?!!?)?  Should I have separate normal tapes for my car
and optimize to my current chrome tapes for at home?  I'm sooo confused!
If ya have any ideas, I'd appreciate it if you passed them along...


---
My opinions, not my employers.



Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: gambrose@engr.UVic.CA (Gene  Ambrose)
Subject: hot deck
Reply-To: gambrose@engr.UVic.CA
Organization: University of Victoria, Victoria, BC, Canada
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 92 22:45:53 GMT

I have a craig model T865 pullout deck.  lately the heat sink has been getting very
hot.  It is hot enough to make the deck smell like burning plastic and it burnt my 
fingers a bit when i had the top off.  It looks like
the sink is on a voltage regulator (i don't know for sure.  these things confuse me)
i have taken the thing fully apart trying to find a short or something and i didn't
find any.  the board did look like it was a bit hot around the battery so i took it
out, but that didn't help.  Any suggestions?  has anyone else had similar problems?

by the way, how much are digital preamps?  

gene
From: boing@mcl.ucsb.edu (Geff Hanoian)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Choosing Brand wires
Date: 14 Dec 92 03:39:56 GMT



	Yep .. that's right .. I had the stock PPI wire running my
	2150 AM ...  a 10 gauge wire, and then I replaced it with
	a four gauge jumper cable (cut off the ends) for +12 and 
	ground and I hear absolulty no difference.  Some time before
	that I consulted that oh so loved "PHYSICS BOOK" and I computed
	that with a loss of one volt @35 amps (i.e. 12 - > 11 ) I could use
	wire that was 1 mm thick.  So I went on to figure on the 
	wattage loss for 1 volt ... and it's VoltsXamps = watts .. no
	way arround it.  That's a good ol' 35 watts.  Okk So then
	figured out that my 10 gauge wire would have lost a .002 volts,
	or something rediculusly small like that.  I'm not sure about 
	speaker wires but that's my .025 cents on power wire.

	l8r

	boing

--
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
|             DISCLAIMER!!!!!!  The opinions I express are my own.         |
|  Nakamichi, Precision Power, AVI SOUND, and Monster Cable Speaker Wire.  |
|        boing@mcl.mcl.ucsb.edu   FRIENDS DON'T LET FRIENDS USE MACS!      |
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: kschlude@nyx.cs.du.edu (kris schludermann)
Subject: 4SAIL:Nakamichi electronic crossover
Organization: Nyx, Public Access Unix @ U. of Denver Math/CS dept.
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 92 01:21:24 GMT




Nakamichi EC-100 (cross over circuitry) & PS-100 (power supply) $200

kris
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: jsc52962@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Jeffrey S. Curtis)
Subject: Re: question on Power Consumption
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 21:20:35 GMT

In article <1gtacqINNjfk@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> ae454@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Paul Simundza) writes:
} I have a Hi-Power pullout, Jensen, that has 60 watts built in, but
}I am not using the power built in, I am running all my sound with
}RCA jacks to 2 AMPS one for subs, and the other for the rest, mids/highs.
}Is it safe to say that if there are no speakers hooked up to the 
}Jensens speaker output that no power is being used? and is it safe to
}have no load on the jensens speaker outputs? Is this a stupid question?

Yes, yes, and no.  :-)

Jeff
-- 
Jeffrey S. Curtis sidewinder@uiuc.edu | "Resplendent and full again, they revel
 The Power of 37  free2207 at uiucvmd | in their role as self-appointed critics
   Jensen - Polk - Sansui - Proton    | of the establishment..."
 Sony - StreetWires - Sanyo - Sennet  |   -- INXS _Welcome to Wherever You Are_
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: ravalent@mothra.syr.EDU (Bob Valentine)
Subject: Re: connecting high power headunit to amp
Organization: Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY
Distribution: usa
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 92 19:49:39 EST

In article <1992Dec12.001519.11519@news.Hawaii.Edu> ross@tarski.tmc.edu (David Ross) writes:
>
>I have a moderate-power receiver (10 w/ch in 2 ch mode), and I want to
>connect an old Alpine amp I have to the rear channel.  The receiver has
>no preamp outputs, and in any event the Alpine preamp input uses the
>old 5-pin Alpine DIN which is incompatible with everything and for
>which no adapters seem to exist.  

   Well, I've heard that you can buy adaptors to do this, but I built
my own adapter.  Nothing fancy.  I don't have the diagram near me,
but I you want it, ask.

Thus, I want to patch the receiver
>speaker output to the speaker-level amp inputs.  Can I do this by cutting
>the power somehow, say with resistors in series?

   Wouldn't it be easier to buy the <$20 box that converts high level
to low level?  The resistors might work, but something might go wrong,
and then bye-bye Alpine.  Better yet, buy the box, rip it apart,
diagram it, and post it here for all of us to see!  Then build it
yourself, and return the box.....

>Thanks,
>David
>
>
>--
>David Ross, Dept. of Math., Univ. of Hawaii at Manoa, Honolulu HI  96822
>Internet: ross@math.hawaii.edu  -or- ross@tarski.math.hawaii.edu
>Phone: 808-956-9949

________________________________________________________________________
\ The name:            -->   Bob Valentine  <--                        /
/ The address:      --> ravalent@mailbox.syr.edu <--                   \ 
\                                                                      /
/ The ride: --> 71 Olds Cutlass Convertible: 350/T400/Posi (soon!) <-- \
\______________________________________________________________________/    
    

Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: yystg@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov (Steve Graham)
Subject: Re: Class A MOSFET Power Amp for sale...
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
Date: 15 Dec 1992 09:30 EST  

In article <1992Dec13.183539.20822@nmt.edu>, maley@nmt.edu (Mark Maley) writes...
>It is true that an amp can be of class A output design and at the same time
>utilize a MOSFET power supply, but how likely is it to have a true class A
>amplifier which delivers 25w x 4 into 4 ohms powered by a 12V battery?
>Unless my knowledge of class A amplifiers is lacking, I believe that such
>amps have a mere 20% theoretical efficiency.  This would mean that our Bolt
>amp would consume a whopping 500 watts.  Does this seem in the least bit
>practical?  I ask you fellow car audio buffs who, like me, have never heard
>of an amplifier manufacturer named 'Bolt' whether or not this advertisement
>seems in the least bit tainted?  If perchance this is a ligitimate ad, I
>apologize to the owner and ask him to post some more specs on this wonder-
>amp, for i may have an extra $100 obo to spend (besides, my heater isn't 
>working well and I assume runnning this thing into 2 ohms could create
>at least 800 watts of heat, not to mention 200 watts of pure linear
>music power.  Seems like an excellent investment to me!!)
> 
>			Mark
> 
>maley@jupiter.nmt.edu

The 20% efficiency refers to the fact that a class A amp will run at full 
power all the time, even when the volume is low/none.  A 25x4 into 4 ohms 
would likely draw around 10 amps constant.

It's very easy to believe that this amp can be class A, given its low power 
output.  Could make an interesting amp to drive a couple of small subs and 
4 speakers in a budget system.

If the original poster is "listening" please e-mail me more about this amp 
- ie more specs, your location in this world, etc.

S. Graham
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car