HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: egreen@east.sun.com (Ed Green - Pixel Cruncher)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Odd home defense shotguns (was Re: suggest
Date: 8 Sep 1992 19:55:54 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, RTP, NC
Distribution: world
Reply-To: egreen@east.sun.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: laser.east.sun.com

In article 22343@michael.apple.com, ems@michael.apple.com (E. Michael Smith) writes:
>
>The .410 is
>considered marginal for birds 

Due to its tight pattern and limited range

>Most people are larger than pigeons.

Most people aren't going to be 20 yards away, 50 feet high, and making
rapid course corrections (at least, not in a home defense scenario).

A .410 can kill a man every bit as quickly and messily as a 12 gauge.

---
Ed Green, former Ninjaite |I was drinking last night with a biker,
  Ed.Green@East.Sun.COM   |and I showed him a picture of you.  I said,
DoD #0111  (919)460-8302  |"Go on, get to know her, you'll like her!"
 (The Grateful Dead) -->  |It seemed like the least I could do...

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: jon@destin.dazixco.ingr.com (Jon Stone)
Subject: Re: Sheetrocking Question
Reply-To: jon@ingr.com
Organization: Dazix - An Intergraph Company
X-Newsreader: GNU Emacs 18.58.1, GNUS 3.14.1, NNTP 3.10
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 15:47:19 GMT


>>>>> On Wed, 9 Sep 1992 18:52:00 GMT, gottesmn@ducvax.auburn.edu (Robert W. Gottesman) said:


 Robert> Well, I am just about to get started on sheetrocking our
 Robert> bonus room.

 Robert> Any pre sheetrocking tips, suggestions, etc?

I have one suggestion that hasn't been mentioned before.  Buy and
install those sheet metal covers that are attached to your studs
wherever electrical wire is routed.  These covers may save someone's
life later.  I don't know exactly what they're called but they keep
someone from putting a nail into a stud where there is a wire beneath.

Jon



--
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Jon Stone                                                 jon@ingr.com
Dazix, an Intergraph Company; Boulder, CO               (303) 581-2319
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: erickson@atlas.cs.nps.navy.mil (David Erickson)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Treating glass shower doors
Date: 15 Sep 92 20:22:36 GMT
Reply-To: erickson@taurus.cs.nps.navy.mil (David Erickson)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey CA

We want to treat some clear glass shower doors and some porcelain
sinks with a product that will make water bead and lessen the hard
water stains.  I am considering RainX, but before I try it, I'd
like to hear from anyone who has tried it or something similar.
How well did it work, how long did it last, etc.

BTW, we called a local company that specializes in treating
glass and porcelain.  They came out and gave us an estimate of $200
for this service.  They claimed that the products they use are not
available on the open market, etc. etc.

-Dave Erickson
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: mgreen@cs.toronto.edu (Marc Green)
Subject: BUYING CHEAP BY 800
Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of Toronto
Date: 7 Sep 92 14:25:50 GMT

For both practical and purient reasons, I want to put together a list
800 number discount places where you can by things cheaps.  I have in
mind places like Noteworthy, the North Carolina furnitures stores etc.
but for other items such as well household goods, electronics, pet
supplies, you name it.

I'd appreciate names and numbers plus estimates of the discount and
delivery times and any personal comments that you might feel relevant.

Marc Green
Trent University
From: bwilliam@oyster.smcm.edu (Bill Williams)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Windows leaking - advice wanted
Date: 7 Sep 92 14:23:37 GMT
Organization: St. Mary's College of Maryland
X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1.1d9
X-XXMessage-ID: <A6D0DE63E60301D2@williams.smcm.edu>
X-XXDate: Mon, 7 Sep 92 15:24:35 GMT

During a recent prolonged rainstorm with wind blowing the rain against
the side of the house, we noticed dark stains on the interior walls,
running down from the bottom edges of a couple of windows on the windward
side of the house.  Presumably water is getting blown into the space
between the external wall and the sheetrock and wetting out the sheetrock
cover along the seams (the stains are remarkably straight and
symmetrical).

I'm a real novice at house-construction stuff, and I'd like to fix these
putative leaks but I don't know where to begin.  Windows are fairly
self-contained, right, and can be removed and replaced more-or-less in
one piece?  Taking the windows out to inspect the damage seems like the
first step.  Can someone recommend some good books about windows and how
to deal with them?

																						-W2
___________________________________
William E. Williams, bwilliam@oyster.smcm.edu
Divison of Natural Sciences and Mathematics
St. Mary's College of Maryland
St. Mary's City, MD 20686
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: leath@atlas.cs.upei.ca (Stephen Leath)
Subject: Elec. Quest. Tapping into a ground?
Originator: leath@atlas.cs.upei.ca
Organization: University of Prince Edward Island
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 13:49:25 GMT

I am installing fluorescent lights in my workshop. The existing light is on
a non-grounded circuit and the new fixtures must be grounded. Can I tap into
a nearby grounded circuit just for the ground?

Thanks in advance.

Steve leath  leath@upei.ca
From: harrism@aquila.rtp.dg.com (Mike Harris)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Security Alarms
Date: 3 Sep 92 19:59:00 GMT
Reply-To: harrism@dg-rtp.dg.com
Organization: Data General Corp., Research Triangle Park, NC

In article <1992Sep1.195625.8444@bradley.bradley.edu>, jeff@bradley.bradley.edu (Jeff Hibbard) writes:
|> kunda@hanuman.Eng.Sun.COM (Ramachandra P. Kunda) writes:

|> Yes.  They (like me) had an alarm that depended on the telephone line
|> to notify a central monitoring office.  It didn't occur to them that
|> turning off their telephone service while on vacation also crippled
|> the alarm system.
|> 
|> > Do you really get 10% off on your home insurance?
|> 
|> I do, from State Farm.
|> 
|> > Does the sign "Security Alarm" on the window of the house deter
|> > the burglar?  Do they check and see if there is an actual alarm
|> > system?
|> 
|> Every so often, somebody from the alarm company comes around and
|> tries to convince me to put such stickers on my windows.  I refuse,
|> on the grounds that all such stickers do is warn burglars that they
|> need to cut my phone line before trying to open any windows or doors.

	What's needed here is a dialer that would work with a cellular
	phone. I don't know if they're available on lower end systems yet.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: rbaist@cbnewsi.cb.att.com (robert.t.baist)
Subject: Chain saw oil
Organization: AT&T
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 20:10:43 GMT

I just bought a gas chain saw. I know that you should mix 40:1 oil with the 
gas. But I have lots of 50:1 oil from my outboard engine and I was 
wondering if I could use that instead. Of course I would mix in the gas 
using the 40:1 ratio. It's just that I have soooo much 50:1 and I'll probably 
never use if all up with my outboard that I thought I'd use it with my saw.
 
Will it work ok?   Please reply e-mail - thanks. 

Bob B.
Everything is disclaimed  


Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: pauld@cs.washington.edu (Paul Barton-Davis)
Subject: Re: Sheetrocking Question
Organization: Computer Science & Engineering, U. of Washington, Seattle
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 92 00:32:30 GMT

In article <1992Sep10.034835.7543@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie) writes:
>In article <9SEP199212522304@ducvax.auburn.edu> gottesmn@ducvax.auburn.edu (Robert W. Gottesman) writes:
>>Any pre sheetrocking tips, suggestions, etc?  What do I need to buy/have?
>>What is the best/cheapest ways to finish the ceiling? Etc.
>
 [ ... ]

>First, make your "deadman". 

Not me. First, I visit a rool rental store, and pay $20 to hire a
drywall jack. Saves time, backs, tempers and wood.

-- paul
-- 
"Fun" is a word invented by advertising executives to sell soft drinks.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: doshay@ursa.arc.nasa.gov (David Doshay)
Subject: Re: repair plaster or drywall?
Organization: NASA-Ames Biocomputation Center
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 00:19:27 GMT

My house was built in 1936, and also has horse-hair-plaster walls. We have done
some repairs with plaster (hired out) some with drywall that was then plastered,
and some with just drywall.

In the begining I had lots of motivation to stick with the original plaster. We
found a plasterer that could do an almost reasonable job of copying the texture
of the old walls in the new plaster. Several contractors saw the work and asked
for his phone number, so they thought he did a good job. The problem is feathering
the new plaster into the old. Right now I am of the opinion that there is no way
to do a good job of transitioning. 

So, My present opinion is that whenever I have to fix a large whole in the 
plaster I will rip out the whole wall and then there is no porblem feathering,
as the corners make a great edge.

David		doshay@soma.arc.nasa.gov

The thought police insist I tell you:
my thoughts, not NASA's
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: pzs3761@tamsun.tamu.edu (Pete Sierant)
Subject: cotton candy Princess
Summary: vacuum
Organization: chaotic to the abstract
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1992 23:36:50 GMT

I'm in the market for a new vacuum cleaner, and came across an 
interesting one made by "Princess". It resembles nothing so much
as a clear glass and gray plastic cotton candy machine. It has
dimensions proportional to a scaled down shop vac, and a filter
resembling a huge conical coffee filter, where the dirt spins 
around real fast in the glass chamber. Aside from being fun to watch,
a vacuum guage held to the intake shows that it can pull 100" Hg, 
compared to 60-85" Hg for an average-to-good 4-5 hp. canister vac.
on the same guage. The dealer had one set up in a sealed glass chamber,
and filled it with cigarette smoke to show how well it filters. He
claims that since it's fairly quiet (for a vac), some people run
it as an air filter. Since I have a mild dust allergy, this is
significant. (Yes, I know about Rainbow. IMnsHO, overpriced and too
much hassle to clean out.) I can get the cotton candy machine for
about $400. I would very much welcome any and all opinions, facts,
preferences and anecdotes about this or any other canister vacs. 

-- 
-- Pete              -=[ pzs3761@tamsun.tamu.edu ]=-
                 "Sometimes, a cigar is just a cigar"
                                                   -Sigmund Freud

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re:  Removal of "very" old linoleum tiles
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 92 18:23:59 GMT

In article <Bu2wz5.Mo2@news.cso.uiuc.edu> tjones@harriett.ncsa.uiuc.edu writes:
>I am trying to revamp the attic in the house.  The tiles have probably 
>been in there for the past twenty years as there is a multitude of sunken 
>rings from furniture that has been up there.  Can anyone tell me how I 
>should go about removing the tiles and how do I fix the "squeaky" areas 
>that are underneath?  Is this a major job that requires only "skilled" 
>professionals (shudder)?

You need one of the 3" or 4" wide scrapers, a propane torch, and a fire
extinguisher. (With any luck, you won't actually *need* the extinguisher).

Pick a place to start. The best place is at a doorway where you can get
the scraper under the edge of the tile. Soften up the tile and glue by
playing the flame from the torch over the surface in small circular
patterns. Work over about 1/4 to 1/2 of one tile at a time. Don't
concentrate the flame in one spot. Keep trying to pry the tile up with
the scraper. When it's hot enough, it'll come up. Wear old shoes - the
glue will be a little tacky after this, and you'll have to walk on it.

Now. Squeaks. These are caused by loose flooring boards. Use screws to
tighten them back down to the joists.

Have fun!

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | I had been told that the best defense is a good
George Patterson -  | offense, so I made up my mind early in life to
                    | become as offensive as possible.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Roland.Henrie@AtlantaGA.NCR.COM (Roland Henrie)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Details of buying a house with Zero Down
Date: 10 Sep 92 21:30:40 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: NCR Engineering and Manufacturing Atlanta -- Atlanta, GA

I have heard of people buying RealEstate with Zero Down.  Is this possible 
to do without owner financing?  Details please....
From: sturges@master.lds-az.loral.com (Jim Sturges)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Noise from street
Date: 9 Sep 92 18:43:50 GMT
Followup-To: misc.consumers.house
Organization: Loral Defense Systems - Arizona

Our home backs up onto a [sometimes] busy street which promises to become
noisier. We are trying to find quick-fix and long-term solutions. So far
I have had people suggest a row of Italian Cypress (grow to about 30 feet,
very dense evergreen cylindrical trees about 2 feet in diameter) -- which
sounds pretty good for the long-term. We have three windows and a french
door
opening onto a balcony from our master bedroom on the second floor which
(you guessed it) is on the street side. I am reluctant to make a heavy
investment into sound treatments for windows/walls unless I have some idea
that they have a prayer of working. Walls are drywall on 2x4 with R-19
blankets,
half-inch styrofoam, wire and stucco. Windows are duopane including french
door.
Large triangular vent in attic over MBR, but have about 4 feet of blown-in
in the attic, which covers all duct work. Any ideas?


*************************************************************************

Yesterday I was a dog.  Today I'm a dog.  Tomorrow I'll probably still
be a dog. Sigh!  There's so little hope for advancement.
                -- Snoopy

 ************************************************************************

Jim Sturges                             MS 8612
602 925-7204                            Loral Defense Systems -- Arizona
602 925-6988 Fax                        P.O. Box 85
sturges@master.lds-az.loral.com         1300 S. Litchfield Rd.
CIS: 72470,3117                         Goodyear-Avondale, AZ  85338
From: stringha@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com (Gary Stringham)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 16:43:00 GMT
Subject: Joke: Honey-Do lists
Organization: Hewlett Packard - Boise, ID
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house

			  Joke: Honey-Do lists

> My Honey-Do weekend project ...

When I was single, I did not have a wife (honey) to put things on my
list of things to do.  So I had to make the list.  And as such, I could
not call it my "honeydew" list.

So I was trying to think of what to call it.  I thought of "cantaloupe"
but that was no good because I "can't elope".  It was against my
beliefs.

So I came up with "watermelon" and added things to my "watermelon" list.

Gary "I now have a Honey and a Honey-Do List" Stringham
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: edwards@world.std.com (Jonathan Edwards)
Subject: Re: Beware when prewiring for telephone
Organization: IntraNet, Inc.
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 12:59:37 GMT

In article <1992Sep8.012426.3393@ddsw1.mcs.com> karl@ddsw1.mcs.com (Karl Denninger) writes:
>The entire point of 10BaseT, and the other twisted pair systems, is that
>they are supposed to meet FCC emissions specifications.
>
>As a note, my radio works just fine, on both the AM and FM bands, right next
>to the 10BaseT feeder wire for the cubes in my office.  And those cables are
>damn busy with traffic all day and night!
>
>If your house is 10' away from the neighbors 60s TV set there might be
>a problem.  I suspect that in most installations and cases there won't 
>be one, but I'm not at all sure who has the problem if there is.  If you 
>meet FCC specs is it then your issue to resolve, or the neighbors?  How 
>can the 10BaseT people sell equipment that doesn't meet FCC emissions specs?

Note that there are TWO levels of FCC certification: A for the office, and the
stricter B for the home (or do I have them reversed?).
I have been vainly trying to establish whether 10Base-T meets the stricter
home specs. So far, several people think it doesn't, several people think it
may, but no one knows for sure! Manufacturers are equally clueless. Does
anyone have any facts, or know where I can find them, or have actual experience
with using 10Base-T at home?



-- 
Jonathan Edwards				edwards@intranet.com
IntraNet, Inc					617-527-7020
From: bsmith@stake.DaytonOH.NCR.COM (ROBERT SMITH)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Public Bathrooms (was: Where to get Uncommon Screws)
Date: 15 Sep 92 12:52:53 GMT
Organization: Stakeholder Relations, NCR Corp in Dayton,OH

<1992Sep14.154459.17030@porthos.cc.bellcore.com>
Reply-To: bsmith@stake.DaytonOH.NCR.COM (ROBERT SMITH)
Followup-To: 
Distribution: 
Organization: Stakeholder Relations, NCR Corp in Dayton,OH

In article <1992Sep14.154459.17030@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> patter@dasher.uucp
(24224-guthrie) writes:
>In article <1992Sep11.224510.9897@sco.com> garyh@sco.COM (< Gary H >) writes:
>>
>>Does anyone know where I can get screws with "weird" heads? 
>
>>            ###
>>           #   #
>>          #  o  #
>>          #     #
>>          #  o  #
>>           #   #
>>            ###
>
>These are commonly used in plumbing fixtures for public restrooms. I
>suggest you try a plumbing supply house that caters to the commercial
>business trade.

I've noticed that public bathroom stalls are often assembled with these "two
prong" screws, or with other weird screws that are easy to tighten but not to
loosen/unscrew.  Why is this necessary?  Do people actually disassemble and
remove public bathroom stalls? Why?
-- 
Bob Smith
E-mail => Robert.D.Smith@daytonoh.ncr.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: pzs3761@tamsun.tamu.edu (Pete Sierant)
Subject: sand v. concrete patio
Summary: patio
Organization: chaotic to the abstract
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1992 23:44:54 GMT

I'm going to be expanding a 12x12 deck by taking a saw to a 3
foot wide section of guard rail, building stairs, and installing an
~16x16 brick patio adjacent. Since this is Texas and fairly dry,
I'm trying to decide whether to cement the bricks down, or just
spread several inches of sand and lay the bricks on top. There
are advantages either way, but I'm leaning toward the sand method
because it seems cheaper, easier, and easier to change or expand 
in the future. Any comments or suggestions welcomed.

-- 
-- Pete              -=[ pzs3761@tamsun.tamu.edu ]=-
                 "Sometimes, a cigar is just a cigar"
                                                   -Sigmund Freud

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: mcbride@rust.zso.dec.com (Melinda McBride)
Subject: Re: Asea Washer?
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation - DECwest Engineering
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 18:47:06 GMT

In article <1992Aug31.041414.10972@parc.xerox.com> burwell@parc.xerox.com (Becky Burwell) writes:
[deleted stuff]
>
>As noise is a big consideration, I am considering buying
>an Asea washer.  They are quite quiet.  The repairman said 
>they were probably good but that I might have trouble locating
>people who knew how to fix them. They are also quite a bit more
>expensive.
>
>Anyone with an Asea washer out there?
>
>
>Becky Burwell
>Xerox PARC
>burwell@parc.xerox.com

I've had an Asea washer for about 7 months.  It's pretty cool.
It is quiet when it is washing, but it does vibrate some when
it's spinning at 1600 RPM.

Asea is getting a ditrubution network set up in the U.S., so you
may be able to get parts okay.  Check to see if you have a distributor
in your area.  

Asea washers are a little different--they heat their own water for one
thing, and they are built to spin very fast.  But they seem to be
designed to be easy to repair.  You can run diagnostics on them to
narrow down problems, for example.

Mac
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: beb@pt.com (Bruce Buck)
Subject: Re: GE fridge ice-maker - Doesn't
Organization: Performance Technologies, Incorporated
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 12:49:47 GMT

In article <hillman.716068314@sfu.ca> hillman@sfu.ca (Steve Hillman) writes:
>We recently purchased a used GE refrigerator (side-by-side, with ice and water
>in the door). At the time, the fridge was in storage so we had no way of
>knowing whether the ice maker worked or not. Upon getting it all hooked up,
>I found that it doesn't. The water dispenser works just fine, but no water
>ever enters the ice cube tray. I have searched all of the local libraries 
>looking for schematics and troubleshooting guides on GE fridges, but none
>had anything on the deluxe models with ice makers.

GE has an 800 number you can call.  If they can't tell you what's wrong, they
ought to be able to fix you up with appropriate documentation.  If the number
isn't printed anywhere on the fridge, just call 1-800-555-1212.

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: cost of building a deck/porch
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 92 15:30:16 GMT

In article <6207@transfer.stratus.com> btarbox@sw.stratus.com (Brian Tarbox) writes:
>I want to expand a tiny (2x5) porch/starway into a 10x12 enclosed
>deck.  This will involve moving the back garage door to the side
>of the garage.  Can anyone give me a ballpark cost estimate?  I have
>no idea.  Thanks.

Depending on the source of your lumber and hardware, materials for a
deck this size will set you back around $400 or more. That's just the
deck. The enclosure and roof will be additional. I don't have recent prices
on roofing material or screening. You can, however, figure joists at about
$8.00 each and roofing plywood at about $18.00/sheet for 3/4", less for
1/2" or 5/8". Another extra will be the foundation - one must really take
a look at the site to estimate this.

I'm in the midst of getting permits for a 12' by 16' deck. The materials
came in at slightly less than $600 at Home Depot. After taking a good
look at the amount of sub-standard (my standards) lumber in their stacks,
I think I'll actually buy the stuff elsewhere, so it'll be a little more.

By the way, in my calculations I figured out the weight of nails required
and screws actually came out cheaper!

I would recommend that you pick up one of the books on decks which are
on the market. The "Sunset" press publishes a good one, and there are
others.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | "Unfair Competition": Selling cheaper than we do.
George Patterson -  | "Note and Initial": Let's spread the responsibility
                    |    for this.
                    |         Kelvin Throop - The Management Dictionary
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: jheath@CERIS.Purdue.EDU (Jim Heath)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Builder's Square ?
Date: 14 Sep 92 21:20:02 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Center for Environmental and Regulatory Information Systems, Purdue University

From article <1992Sep12.153154.14967@ultb.isc.rit.edu>, by kls4344@ritvax.isc.rit.edu (Person in flux):
> In article <92254.1554093MECZLX@CMUVM.CSV.CMICH.EDU>, Karl A. Johnson 
> <3MECZLX@CMUVM.CSV.CMICH.EDU> writes re. Builder's Square:
> 
>>One word of warning: If you shop there PRICE CHECK  F I R S T !!!
>>
>>I have found that at the 2 stores that I have been in, the prices are
>>higher on SOMETHINGS.
> 
> This can be true of chain stores with outlets in various parts of town; I know
> that here in Rochester, New York, some grocery items cost more in the "ritzy"
> ends than in the areas where lots of food stamps are used.
>

Hmmmm, I've always heard that the grocery store chains were the
other way around. 
-- 
"Land of song, said the warrior bard,           Jim Heath
Though all the world betrays thee.
One sword, at least, thy rights shall guard, (The Minstrel Boy)
One faithful harp will praise thee."         (Thomas Moore)