HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Re: ** INFO ON VW CORRADO V6 **
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 23:13:24 GMT

In article <1992Sep28.175546.24408@microplex.com>, fff@microplex.com (Fred Fierling) writes:
|> In article <1992Sep25.170155.29118@ee.rochester.edu> Mark Sirota <msirota@socrates.ee.rochester.edu> writes:
|> >In article <1992Sep25.051925.12909@microplex.com> fff@microplex.com (Fred Fierling) writes:
|> >> Have you noticed that switching to defrost causes the air conditioner
|> >> compressor to kick in?  I suspect it cools (and dehumidifies) the air
|> >> then heats it up before it gets to the windshield.  Anyone know for sure?
|> >
|> >Yes, this has been true of all the A2 cars (since 1985).  The AC kicks in on
|> >defrost, supposedly only when the temperature is above 51 degrees
|> >Fahrenheit.  Seems to me it happens at lower temperatures, too.  It's all in
|> >the owner's manual, perhaps you'd like to read it sometime.
|> 
|> My manual states that the AC runs for defrosting when the outside temperature
|> is above 2 degrees Celcius.  However it doesn't say why, which is the essence
|> of my original question.

The A/C running with defrost goes back even farther, it's on my 1979 Scirocco.
Trick was, you needed "factory installed" A/C, not the typical dealer installed
version.

Regards the low temperature limit, if you consider that the typical auto A/C can
put out air about 40-50 degress (F) below the outside air temp, then operation
below 50 F is beyond its normal capability (the expansion valve will freeze).
I suspect that there is no "special" limit switch to do this -- just that the
air temperature control just "bottoms out".   Besides at temperatures below 50 F
the air can be made sufficiently dry just by heating it. 

Mark
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: eldred@rrunner.jpl.nasa.gov (Dan Eldred)
Subject: Re: Fuel Inj./Weber Conversion???
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory
Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1992 17:47:47 GMT

In article <EekvFjW00WB904BGxy@andrew.cmu.edu> Doug vanderVeen <dv0o+@andrew.cmu.edu> writes:
>Mr. Eldred doubts my word on gas spills in FI systems.
>
>I must admit that I have a very OLD fuel injection system (1968), and
>that the safety feature you mention is admirable.  However it is not a
>part of the early VW systems.  Minor flame: If you had read my post you
>would have seen that my car has done the very thing you say they can't
>do. Yikes.
>
>Doug "...but gas is a SAFE fuel..." van der Veen

Instead of saying "I don't believe that is true" I should have said "I
don't believe that is true in a properly functioning system."  See the
post from Mark Shaw below.  Of course, VW might have put in engine
speed sensing in '69.  Can someone look at some schematics?

From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)

You have a faulty fuel pump relay if the pump does not shut off.  These
relays are fed a signal from the ignition and detect engine speed.  If there
is not engine signal (and the key is not in the start position) the relay
should be off.   Even my '69 Type III with D-Jetronic would stop
pumping -- once lost the fuel line next to the transmission -- car stopped
immediately  and only left a wet stop on the payment about 6" inches in
diameter.   Check your relay by disconnecting the signal wire from the
engine while it is running.  Should stop instantly.            	


		- Dan Eldred
From: ritchiej@ucs.orst.edu (John Ritchie)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Timing the 009
Date: 1 Oct 92 20:31:40 GMT
Article-I.D.: news.BvGMCt.BF0
Organization: University Computing Services - OSU

In article <1992Oct1.072018.4514@bb1t.monsanto.com> bjgaed@bb1t.monsanto.com writes:
>In article <IemWzXu00WB8QkUl8m@andrew.cmu.edu>, dv0o+@andrew.cmu.edu (Doug vanderVeen) writes:
>> Well, I don't have time to figure out if my FI will turn off my fuel
>> pump anymore; I have added to my befuddlement through the purchase of a
>> '74 Campmobile.  It was running poorly when I bought it, so I started in
>> on a tune-up.  (The exhaust valve clearances were zero, I think that
>> accounts for most of the problems)  
>
>OUCH!!
>
>> But when it came down to the timing
>> I was stumped.  The previous owner had upgraded to an 009.  I don't have
>> any specs on this.
>> What do I do?
>> 
>Muir sez:  Time all centrifugal advance distributors (the 009) to 7.5 
>degrees BTDC static.  I just put one on my '64 Ghia and it runs great 
>with that timing, gas mileage is excellent.
>

[stuff deleted]

I, too, had this question and I asked my local knowledgable VW mechanic.  
He said that one sets the 009 to 7.5 degrees BTDC on pre- 71 VWs and to 12 
degrees BTDC on
post- 71s (wait... what does one do with a 71?) or something like that. 
It supposedly has to do with engine differences, although I'm not hip enough
on the different bus engines to know.  I have a 74 bus that, although it runs 
ok set at 7.5 BTDC, runs GREAT at 12 degrees.  Since the original poster 
also has a 74, he might try it at 12.  One can also go by the total advance
number, which I've heard is good at 32 degrees advance.  On my bus this
equates to 12 degrees BTDC at ~1000 RPM.

I'm sure this will set off a round of 009-timing debates, I seem to remember
seeing this discussion before!

>-- 
>--Electric Monk            (Bruce Gaede); 
>                            e-mail: bjgaed@ccmail.monsanto.com
>
>"...and then time started seriously to pass."
>--Douglas Adams, _Dirk Gently's Holistic Detective Agency_

John Ritchie --------------------> ritchiej@ucs.orst.edu
From: b645zjo@utarlg.uta.edu (Rick Homard)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Timing the 009
Date: 1 Oct 92 19:02:00 GMT
Article-I.D.: utarlg.1OCT199214023814
Distribution: usa
Organization: The University of Texas at Arlington
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <IemWzXu00WB8QkUl8m@andrew.cmu.edu>, dv0o+@andrew.cmu.edu (Doug vanderVeen) writes...
>Well, I don't have time to figure out if my FI will turn off my fuel
>pump anymore; I have added to my befuddlement through the purchase of a
>'74 Campmobile.  It was running poorly when I bought it, so I started in
>on a tune-up.  (The exhaust valve clearances were zero, I think that
>accounts for most of the problems)  But when it came down to the timing
>I was stumped.  The previous owner had upgraded to an 009.  I don't have
>any specs on this.
>What do I do?


I may be wrong on this (as I don't own a FI model) but I thought I read
someplace that you cannot replace the distributor of a FI engine with
an 009.  The distributor on a FI motor has Hall Effect switches (magnetic
switches) in them so that the FI and the ignition work in harmony.

Right, wrong, partially right, or partially wrong?  Anybody know?

Rick Homard
From: wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: bus CV problems **SOLVED**
Date: 1 Oct 1992 12:44:15 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


Good morning net.volks!

Spent some time getting CV grease all over everything in my basement
last night, but it was time well spent.  I had the hub and outer race of
the CV out of agreement.  Just made the 180 flip-flop and all is
copacetic.

Thanks to all the kind (and knowledgable, as usual!) netters that
responded!

Bill
-- 
William Claspy			Case Western Reserve University
Internet- wpc@po.cwru.edu
MaBellnet- (216) 368-3595
Subject: Re: Hi-Performance Cam. question
Organization: University of Maine System
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From:    michael@maine.maine.edu (Michael Johnson)
To:      NETNEWS@MAINE
Date:    Tue, 06 Oct 92 17:51:37 EDT

In article <1992Oct6.193035.2392@odin.corp.sgi.com>
ricky@benchmaster.esd.sgi.com (Ricky Cheng) writes:
>will hi-performance cam. reduce low rpm torque ?

The packaged answer is "yes". The real answer is, that depends. If you try
to use a 3/4 grind camshaft in a street engine, you're going to have lousy
low-end torque. However, some of the more recent street cams from people
like APS (Automotive Performance Systems) give good high end power and don't
lose any low-end torque compared to stock. And, in the case of the APS cams,
they're legal according to the EPA, which most cams are not.

Michael Johnson, VM Systems Group                     michael@maine.maine.edu
"I will choose the path that's clear. I will choose Free Will." -- Neil Peart
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca (Andy)
Subject: Re: Tire Advice Sought
Organization: Math, Stats & CS, Dalhousie University, Halifax, NS, Canada
Distribution: dal
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 21:16:55 GMT

In <1992Sep29.120437.1@ulkyvx.louisville.edu> cl128209@ulkyvx.louisville.edu writes:

>In article <3709@bcstec.ca.boeing.com>, mce5921@bcstec.ca.boeing.com (Martin Emde) writes:
>> Here's my question:
>> 
>> I've got a '90 Golf with 65,000 miles with the original tires and wheels and
>> it is time to replace the tires.  Most likely I will put the same size tires
>> on but a different brand (I was not too impressed with the Bridgestones it 
>> came with).  I will not be replacing the wheels so what I need to know
>> is what is a good tire for this car?  Would it be wise to get a lower
>> profile tire (that is if they fit on the original wheels)?
>> 
>> Please help.
>> 
>> -Martin
>> 
>>

>I've got a '87 Scirocco 16V that came with Pirelli P6's 185/60R 14's and I was
>not impressed with those either.  I've since bought 15 inch rims and of
>course some new tires.  Now I'm no expert but I got some Yokohama's and they
>feel much better than the Pirelli's I had.  The tires I got are A403 205/50VR
>15's.  It rains alot here and they stick good rain or shine.  Yokohama also
>makes an AVS Intermediate that is suppose to stick really well, I didn't get
>these because the size I wanted only came in a Z speed rating and I want them
>to last longer than that.  They make tires for all applications and lower
>profiles for your car.  If you want handling I would suggest a lower profile
>tire.  I have also read great things about the Dunlop D40M2's, but never
>experienced them for myself???

>I know that Tire Rack sells all performance tires and you can find an ad in any
>car magazine.

>	Just in case their number is: (800) 428-8355
>	Prices:
>		Yokohama A403 205/50VR 15                 $104
>		Yokohama AVS Intermediate  205/50ZR 15    $145
>		Dunlop D40M2 205/50ZR 15                  $131

>Just thought you'd like to know.
>	M.F.
> 
I got a '85 GTI and am running on 15". I slalom on the originals. I tried
P600 205/55/14, -- don't bother with them.
I also tried michelin MXV -- don't bother either.
I got continentals on the 15" -- grat in dry, terrible in wet (I think
that the fact is that they are almost bold might add to that effect)

Definately go for 205/55/14 on the stock rims. I heard good stuff about
Yoko's too, although I never used them except the 008 for racing (these
things are like glue)

ANdy
-- 
---....-------------****----*******-) GTI FUN-atic                      o  
--. \/ .-----GTI---******--*********)         Don't forget to bike:     ,-\
--.\/\/.-----------******--*********)  (and sail and windsurf and ski)  0\-0
---....-------------****----*******-) gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca,goaway@ac.dal.ca
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: eur@dutncp2.tn.tudelft.nl (Eur van Andel)
Subject: Re: Curing an '82 Scirocco
Organisation: TU Delft, The Netherlands
Organization: Delft University of Technology
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 10:20:21 GMT

In <2AC0FB3B.5B9@deneva.sdd.trw.com> hart@mamacass (James A. Hart) writes:


> >3) There is a rattle (like a loose bolt, but louder) that I hear
> >   when the right front tire goes over a bump. I thought it might
> >   be the CV joint, but the dealer said it's fine, and the noise
> >   is still there. Sometimes when I let the clutch out fast I hear
> >   it too. But the noise is located in the right front of the car
> >   only. Motor mount maybe? Loose strut mount, perhaps? This is
> >   more annoying than the radiator right now.
>--
>My '82 developed an annoying rattle in the front wheel area that
>turned out to be a lack of 'anti-rattle' springs on the brake pads.
>As it turned out, the replacement pads had no notches for the springs
>to sit... so naturally they were left off!  A little work with a dremel
>moto-tool fixed that.  Rattle's gone.


I recently put a Derby 1.1 engine in a Golf (Rabbit in US) which had a rattle:
it was the exhaust rattling against the engine block at the front.

There should be a plate with a clamp to stop the pipe from rattling.



-- 
eur  eur@dutncp8.tn.tudelft.nl
--
eur  eur@dutncp8.tn.tudelft.nl
From: jrhall@cbnewsk.cb.att.com (john.r.hall)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: don't change oil during 1st 7,500 miles
Date: 5 Oct 92 21:09:25 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T

I don't recall seeing this before, but in the
Spring/Summer '92 "VW Parts and Advice", page 6:

"It is also important to note that engine oil should
not be changed before 7500 miles, or it
could prolong the break-in period.  If, for some reason,
the engine oil has been changed, a detergent oil should be added.
This will allow the engine to properly complete the break-in
period."

--John
Organization: Doctoral student, Industrial Administration, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Date: Fri,  2 Oct 1992 16:57:38 -0400 
From: Doug vanderVeen <dv0o+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Timing Clarification

I seem to have caused some confusion.  The fuel injection is on my '68
Fastback, which, as noted, must use a fuel injection distributor.  The
009 is on the recently purchased '74 bus, which is equipped with twin
Solex's.

Suggestions for timing so far have been:
    7.5 degrees BTDC, static
    12 degrees BTDC, static
    32 degrees BTDC, total advance

Thanks, Doug "Why is it so hot in Arizona, still!" Neevrednav
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mgm@royko.Chicago.COM (Marty Masters)
Subject: Faulty Oxygen sensor = fast idle?
Organization: Chicago Software Works
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 06:28:06 GMT

The idle has been gradually increasing on my 88 Fox of late.  The car
has 180,000 miles.  I've never changed the Oxygen sensor, could this 
be the likely culprit?  If so, what do they run or is there a better 
way to fix the problem?  Thanks 1,000,000.

...Marty					mgm@royko.chicago.com
From: sylveste@ecs.umass.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Audi questions
Date: 6 Oct 92 09:15:03 GMT
Article-I.D.: ecs.18671.2ad15917

In article <1992Oct06.000627.1511@wes.on.ca>, tomh@wes.on.ca (Tom Haapanen) writes:
> carl@neocad.com (Carl Stern) writes:
>> Interesting that while other carmakers, ex. Honda, Volvo, are now
>> embracing 5 cyls, Audi is phasing it out.  
> 
> Audi is supplementing the 5-banger and replacing it at the high end because
> it never quite fulfilled the hopes they had for it.  When the engine was 
> introduced back in '76, it was supposed to be as smooth as a six-cylinder
> and yet as fuel-efficient as a four...
> 
> Well, as it turns out, a five-cylinder is by design a difficult engine to
> design for smoothness.  The Audi five, while impressive in its Turbo
> Quattro and later S2 and S4 incarnations, was never as smooth as a good
> V6, let alone a match for a BMW straight six.  It's also longer than a 
> four-cylinder, making transverse mounting difficult...

      I have to disagree.  The Audi 5 cylinder runs very smooth.  It will also
out last most engines of other manufatures.  Audi doesn't need to mount their
engines transverse.  

> 
> Anyway, Volvo and Mercedes have been selling five-cylinder diesels for a
> long time (does Volvo have a five-cylinder gas engine now?), and Honda's
> reason for introducing a five-cylinder is clear: marketing.  The Acura
> five-cylinder is no smoother than an Accord four, but they didn't want
> to risk eating into the Legend market with a V6 Vigor (hey, shouldn't that
> be "Vigour"? :) )...
> 

       The 5 cylinder that volvo was using was made by Audi.  It was the same
engine that was in the 5000 diesel.




                                                    Mike Sylvester  Umass

                                                    sylveste@ecs.umas.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: christos@wucs1.wustl.edu (Christos Papadopoulos)
Subject: Can a leaky radiator be fixed?
Organization: Washington University, St. Louis MO
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 22:46:25 GMT

Hi to you all!
	Has anybody had any luck fixing a leaky plastic/aluminum radiator?
Some people say that they cannot be fixed - only replaced. Some shops
have offered to try to fix it for about half the price of a new one,
but I was wondering if anyone has done it and if it was successful.
	Thanks,

Christos.
From: borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Removing Instrument Cluster, '84 Rabbit
Date: 5 Oct 92 18:45:54 GMT
Article-I.D.: hpspkla.31170071
Organization: Hewlett Packard Company, Spokane, Wa.

In rec.autos.vw, atosswil@sumax.seattleu.edu (Andy Tosswill) writes:

>Folks,
>Well, my odometer has finally stopped working altogether and I need to
>fix/replace it. I read the Bentley manual on removing the instrument cluster
>and it seems straightforward. However, upon actually trying it, I ran into some
>problems.
>
>Specifically, the cluster seems too large in the vertical dimension to
>come out of the dash easily, and the assorted wires and cables attached to the
>back don't make matters any easier.
>
>Does anyone out there have any experience or helpful hints on removing
>the instrument cluster?

You might be well off to remove the sound deadening panel from under the
dash, so that you can reach up and work.  It also helps to remove the
cold air duct for additional clearance.  With this stuff out of the way, you
should be able to remove the speedometer cable and the electrical connectors.
If the speedo cable to too hard to remove, then loosen the other end of
it be removing that other end from the transmission.  Anyway, with all of
this, you should be able to get the cluster out.


Donald Borowski    WA6OMI    Hewlett-Packard, Spokane Division
"Angels are able to fly because they take themselves so lightly."
                                       -G.K. Chesterton
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 13:29:04 -0400 
From: Eric Meyhofer <em3j+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: I NEED 16v or VR6 ENGINE

CC: 
<Bv50By.Gw2@cleo.abt.com> <1992Sep26.155040.2578@mdcbbs.com>
	<1992Sep28.124838.396@walter.bellcore.com>

I'm very interested in purchasing an engine for my A1 Scirocco. I want
only a 16v from a scirocco, for it is the only 16v engine that will fit
the A1, and any VR6 will do.  If anyone has one that they are willing to
part with or know someone that will do the same I appreciate your
effort.  
                                                        Eric Meyhofer
From: jswthomp@milton.u.washington.edu (James Thompson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: ** INFO ON VW CORRADO V6 **
Date: 28 Sep 92 16:40:51 GMT
Article-I.D.: u.1992Sep28.164051.18830
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle

In article <1992Sep25.095038.2576@mdcbbs.com> jan@camhpp12.mdcbbs.com (Jan Vandenbrande) writes:
>In article <1992Sep25.051925.12909@microplex.com> fff@microplex.com (Fred Fierling) writes:
>>
>>
>>Have you noticed that switching to defrost causes the air conditioner
>>compressor to kick in?  I suspect it cools (and dehumidifies) the air
>>then heats it up before it gets to the windshield.  Anyone know for sure?
>>-- 
>>Fred Fierling    fff@microplex.com      Tel: 604 875-1461   Fax: 604 875-9029
>>Microplex Systems Ltd   265 East 1st Avenue   Vancouver, BC  V5T 1A7,  Canada
>
>Most vw stock ACs do that. Does exactly what you say. Works pretty 
>good too.


My Pontiac Fiero did this too.  According to Pontiac, the compressor is turned
on to put additional load on the engine so that it will warm up quicker, and
the defroster will become effective sooner.  Worked pretty good.

Jim (jswthomp@u.washington.edu)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: Brendan Bailey <sasbrb@unx.sas.com>
Subject: Re: ** INFO ON VW CORRADO V6 **
Originator: pabouki@c00433-313mn.eos.ncsu.edu
Reply-To: sasbrb@rolypoly.unx.sas.com
Organization: North Carolina State University
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 19:39:35 GMT





   I have a 1986 VW Golf automatic with approximately 130,000 miles on
it (I don't know since the stupid odometer randomly works).  Anyhow,
lately, when I start the car in the morning, I hear several knocks that
sound as if they're coming from right under the gearshift under the car. 
I had passengers in the back seat last night and they said the knocks
sounded more to the back of the car.  I usually hear a few rough knocks
when I start the car (on a sloped driveway) and sometimes when I'm attempting 
to accelerate from a stop.  Does anyone know what this possibly could be?  
I'm scared it sounds like a $500.00 noise.  Please tell me it isn't.
   Please mail your followups to me since I do not have .net access
anymore.  Thanks!

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Brendan Bailey                         "The NFL is on record saying that if 
SAS Institute, Inc - QA/Graph           it adds 150 expansion teams or hell 
sasbrb@unx.sas.com                      freezes over -- whichever comes      
Go Heels! Go Hornets! Go Panthers!      first -- Raleigh will be awarded a
The NFL in Charlotte! Target: 1994!!!   franchise." - The Charlotte Observer
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 


Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: eldred@rrunner.jpl.nasa.gov (Dan Eldred)
Subject: Re: Rabbit GTI Clutches
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 17:22:32 GMT

In article <1992Sep29.151027.9711@news.cs.brandeis.edu> andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang) writes:
>
I guess we're compiling a list of high mileage clutches.  Here's my addition:

>andy:	120+	double clutch up and down, steep driveway, otherwise
>		not hard driver
>
>jay:	190	2yrs SCCA Rally, presumably hard driver
>
dan:	170	Moderately hard driver, but good on clutch.  Engine still purrs.
		This is an '84 Rabbit, not a GTI.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mfolivo@sactoh0.sac.ca.us (Mark Newton-John)
Subject: Re: Audi questions
Organization: Sacramento Public Access Unix
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 92 08:32:00 GMT

Actually, Audi is not phasing out the five cylinder engine, I wouls
say at this time, the V6 offers more power (what Americans want)
than the five.

Look at the S4, it uses a four valve, turbocharged five cylinder
for 0-60 times in the low sixes- not bad when you remember the
1976 Porsche turbo did 0-60 in six seconds, and now you have this
big four door AWD sedan doing it within a half-second.

By the way, the Volswagen Eurovan uses a five cylinder motor, no
doubt from Audi.


-- 
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Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw