From: chuck@col.hp.com (Chuck Rice)
Subject: Re: Blizzard Suspension Rebuild
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 14:04:01 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division

dougr@meaddata.com (Doug Ritter) writes:

Hi Doug,

I'll try to answer a couple of your questions, don't know enough about
Ski Doo's to answer most of them.

>   - sliders?  They seem to be in good shape, but what do I know?

If there is plenty of meat left and they are not worn in odd patterns
they don't need replaced.

>   - Coil springs?  Ditto, although they've been in the "sprung" position
>     for 12 years.

If the suspension was stiff enough with no sag the springs are OK.

>   - Coil spring bushings?  Not much to these really, just a piece of
>     some sort of plastic.  They're worn a little, is there anything to
>     gain by replacing them?

No.

> o Like I said, the front suspension arm is bent, which is going to restrict
>   it's abillity to move.  I know I've got to fix that, but should I replace
>   the whole section or just try to straighten the arm?

I have had good luck straightening these but it can be a real chore if they
are bent very bad.

>   This may be an easy one - if the parts are mega-bucks, I'll straighten the
>   old one.

I just checked on one for a Polaris - $99.

> o Also, the limiter strap bar is broken off (this is the loud snap that I
>   heard last winter) - looks like the weld on one side had been broken for
>   a long time and when the other side went, it didn't come off cleanly.
>   I haven't tried a welding shop yet, but I can probably find someone who
>   will be willing to fix it for me, although around here I won't find anyone who
>   knows snowmobiles who can fix it for me.  So here's my question on this
>   one - how much stress is placed on the limiter strap?  Can I get by with
>   a shoddy welding job here?  Should I buy the entire assembly from Ski Doo?
>   (assuming of course that it doesn't cost an arm and a leg)

A decent welding shop should be able to do a good job of fixing it for $5 or
$10.

> o Should the limiter strap be set at the stock setting or loosened up a
>   notch? (there're only two settings - I left it at the stock setup because
>   it's too hard to get at with the suspension inplace)

This adjustment controls ski pressure. In the lower position the skis are
harder to turn but the sled follows the skis better. In the higher position
the skis will turn easier but the sled may want to go straight to some
degree. If you are drag racing or riding deep pwder, you don't want any
ski pressure. If you are fast trail riding you want lots of ski pressure.
I think you want it in the stock setting.

> o The bearings of the upper idler arm wheels seem a little rough - should
>   they be replaced?  They don't seem to be a key component of the drive
>   train, but if they are and don't cost too much I want to replace them.

Yes, replace them. I get them at a local bearing shop for about $12.

> And just in general, are there any tricks I can do while I've got it apart
> to improve the ride and/or performance?  (besides buying a new sled I
> mean - I've already done that, this is my "standby" machine now ;-)

How about some slippery sliders? About $70 from Dennis Kirk.

> Also, the foam padding on the underside of the hood is all coming off -
> is it worth replacing?
 
I think its purpose is to reduce engine noise. Check the price and I'll bet
you forget about it.


The local weather report says 8 inches in the high country tonight and snow
in Colorado Springs!
Xref: sparky alt.snowmobiles:217 rec.travel:13827