HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: norcott_bill@tandem.com (Bill Norcott)
Subject: Re: 87 Sable Fuel Pump Makes Noise
Keywords: Sable, Fuel Pump, Noise
Reply-To: norcott_bill@tandem.com  (Bill Norcott)
Organization: Tandem Computers, Inc.
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1992 20:05:52 GMT

In article <1992Jul31.182824.3283@asl.dl.nec.com>, stover@aslws01.asl.dl.nec.com (Jim Stover) writes:
|> I have an 87 Mercury Sable with 3.0L V6 with 65,000 miles.
|> A couple of weeks ago the fuel pump started making
|> a loud humming noise. It is nearly constant at all speeds.
|> I have three theories:
|> 
|> 1.	The pump is going bad and needs replacing.
|> 2.	The fuel filter needs replacing.
|> 3.	Something has come loose such as a bracket,
|> 	insulation, etc.
|> 
|> Does anyone know what causes this and how to fix it?
|> 

With that kind of mileage on the car, I would change the fuel
filter anyway (if it's more than maybe 15-20,000 since you
changed it last).

Call Ford at 1-800-392-3673 to see if there is a recall on the fuel
pump.  You will need the vehicle ID # handy.  I called them and found
there was an emissions recall on my 1987 Topaz, I just had it done and
got a free fuel injector installed.  If you know there was a recall they 
will pay, if you don't know, you will pay.

There seem to be 3 kinds of recalls: mandatory safety recalls from the
government's NHTSA, emmissions recalls from the EPA, and voluntary
recalls of all types from the manufacturer.  The safety & emissions
ones usually have no mileage limit.  The voluntary ones may or may not
have a limit.  Then there are "good will" adjustments which are like
secret warranties, they are not publicized and are in the form of
service bulletins.  These may have a mileage limit and also depend on
your relationship with the dealer.

|> Also, the paint on the hood (but no where else) is starting
|> to look like it was buffed with steel wool. When you look
|> at an angle you can see large areas running front to back
|> that look bad.
|> 
|> Any ideas or suggests?
|> 

If you waxed the car and it has clear coat paint, you probably 
scratched the clear coat.  Their is a product made by Meguiars
which claims to hide scratches in clear coat.  

-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------|
Bill Norcott			GUARDIAN POSIX project
Tandem Computers, Inc.		
10600 N. Tantau Avenue		PHONE:  (408) 285-3253
Cupertino, CA   95014		EMAIL: norcott_bill@tandem.com


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mack@isl.Stanford.EDU (mack)
Subject: Re: Timing belt replacement in a Sentra
Organization: Stanford University
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 92 19:16:44 GMT

nall@sun8.scri.fsu.edu (John Nall) writes:
>eur@dutncp2.tn.tudelft.nl (Eur van Andel) writes:
>>mack@isl.Stanford.EDU (mack) writes:
>>
>>>I need some net.advice for replacing the timing belt on my Nissan
>>>Sentra 85. The original belt worked for 102K miles before it gave in,
>>>and the car died on me last Friday. I had it towed home (God bless
>
>   [ ... stuff deleted to save bandwidth ... ]
>
>>Buy a new engine. If your timing belt came off while the engine was revving,
>>it is gone. Broken and bent valves, cracked pistons and a damaged head. :-(
>
>  Well, don't buy a new engine before getting the old one checked
>  out :-)  You may have lucked out.  But Eur is more than likely
>  correct - a busted timing belt while driving at 60 MPH or so is
>  more than likely gonna cause a lot of internal damage.

Actually the engine died on me when I was about to accelerate from a
stop sign. My spped never got to 5 mph. I don't know if that changes
anything!?  :-)

>John

    --mack

--
For as long as I know how to love, I know I'll stay alive.
I've got all my life to live, I've got all my love to give
and I'll survive, I will survive.          --Gloria Gaynor
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hamilton@huey.udel.edu (andrew hamilton)
Subject: Re: Chevy Headliner Replacement
Organization: University of Delaware, Newark
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 14:43:32 GMT

In article <22776@oasys.dt.navy.mil> plumpe@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Plumpe) writes:
>
>    My 1977 Chevy Caprice wagon has the dreaded "GM Headliner Droop"
>
>    Anybody have any experiences/thoughts you'd offer me and the millions
>of other GM Headliner Droop sufferers in netland??
>

Anyone I've ever known who gets tired of wearing his/her GM headliner as a
hat has simply bought some colored thumb tacks (the flat kind, same
color as the headliner) and tacked the damn thing back up where it
belongs.  Did it in my 78 Buick LeSabre and most passengers seem to think
it came that way from the factory.  If you do it right it can look really
nice and is incredibly cheap.  I also tried filling a doctor's needle with
glue and squirting it up through the fabric, but I found that I didn't have
the patience to hold my hand up there and wait for it to dry.  Anybody else?

Andrew.
From: R.B.Birch@lut.ac.uk (Ray Birch.)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Gear Selecting problems
Date: 21 Jul 92 08:03:43 GMT
Reply-To: R.B.Birch@lut.ac.uk (Ray Birch.)
Organization: Loughborough University, UK.

I hope someone might be able to suggest some reasons for my recent gearbox      problems! Having had the clutch cable on my Citroen BX17 RD snap on me whilst
sitting in a queue of traffic I got out to try and push it off the road, but 
couldn't budge it. I tried to edge it into gear to drive it out of trouble and 
eventually managed it. Whilst pulling it up onto the kerbside there was a kind
of 'PHUT' sound and what I assumed to be smoke bellowed out from under the 
bonnet. I stopped the engine and got out to investigate but couldn't find the
source. The smoke wasn't foul smelling(so I don't think it was the clutch lining burning out). (All this needs to be told because it might have some
significance later on).
Once I had got the car back home I fitted a new clutch cable to it, checking
all the component parts of the linkage for cracks (as I have been told they are
prone to them). All seemed O.K. until the test drive,(and this was quite 
literally the crunch) 1st gear was fine but moving up through 2nd and 3rd the 
gears grated (4th, 5th and reverse were also fine). Similarly coming down  
through the gears was the same. Sometimes changing from 2nd to 3rd is O.K.
I have adjusted and readjusted the clutch so don't think it's that. Could the 
'PHUT' sound have been the transmission oil leaking out, and would it have this  effect if it was, or is it more likely to be the syncromesh on the 2nd and 3rd gears. Any light which anyone can throw on the subject would be greatly 
appreciated as my double- declutching technique leaves a lot to be desired,
(although I'm working on it)!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rsnider@xrtll.uucp (Richard Snider)
Subject: Re: Clutch replacement
Organization: WCOM Public Access Unix - Toronto
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 00:42:24 GMT
Summary: It takes a while, but its worth it.

In article <DENNIS.92Jul17134503@mr2.ece.cmu.edu> dennis@mr2.ece.cmu.edu (Dennis J. Ciplickas) writes:
>
>Hi y'all.  Its seems that my 75 Mercedes 240D (rear wheel drive) will
>need a new clutch soon.  I say this because the "active" region of the
>

[ ... ]

>My body manual (Mercedes, not Chilton) says to unbolt the propeller
>shaft, unbolt the transmission and remove it from the car, remove the
>clutch housing, etc.  The hardest part sounds like getting the

Although I have not changed a clutch in a Mercedes, I have changed
at least one myself.   The first thing before doing this job is to
get help.  The best resouce you will have while doing this job is 
someone who can hold a wrench, prop up the transmission, and pass
you boltz if nothing else. 

Doing all the work you describe is not difficult, it is just cumbersome.

You will not need a "clutch alignment tool"...  I found an old broom 
handle or peice of 1/2 inch pipe does the trick just fine.  Even if
you use an alignment tool, you  will still have to mess with the output
shaft to get the splines to match.  If you have someone sit in the car
and press the clutch pedal while you are underneith messing with the
tranny it is a big help.

NEVER... never tighten your transmission bolts to the bellhousing 
until you get the splines aligned and the shaft _FULLLY_ inserted
into the clutch.  If you do just reaf them down, you will at best
strip them, at worst break the bellhousing.

It depends on your style, but if you want to save the bucks, you 
can probabbly get away with just a regular floor jack to prop the 
transmission into place when you are taking it apart/putting it 
together.

Last point, while you have it all apart, be sure to replace the
pilot bearing (it it needs a tool to get it out, get one, it beats
the hell out of using a cold chisel ...:-(...), and the release/throughout
(sp ?) bearing as they are cheap and if the go after you change it
you will probabbly kill yourself....

Best of luck..  incedentally, draining the tranny oil beforehand
saves a (sticky... if  < 80 weight..) mess.

                                             ....Rich
                                            rsnider@xrtll
                                                  LL not 11

 

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen)
Subject: Re: Increasing power?
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 92 19:49:50 GMT


people have been explaining why an automatic is better for moving
heavy loads (torque multiplication).  i'll buy that, but why
are there so many dump trucks and semis with manual trannies?
From: msoques@mozart.amd.com (Martin Soques)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Air plenum needs cleaning? [89 Mitsubishi Mirage 1.5l]
Date: 24 Jul 92 23:22:55 GMT
Organization: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc.; Austin, Texas

Greetings!  On a recent visit to the Mitsubishi dealer, the service manager
noticed that my SO's 89 Mirage was idling roughly.  One of the procedures
he recommended was to clean the air plenum.  He claims a throttle valve
inside the plenum gets sticky due to carbon buildup.  The question is where
did this carbon come from?  Where is this valve?  The factory shop manual 
does not show the air plenum in enough detail nor does it mention cleaning
it as a maintenance item.  Engine is the fuel-injected 1.5 liter.

Thanks in advance.

Marty
--
------------------------------------------------------------------------
  snail: Martin P. Soques      |  Opinions are my own ...
         P. O. Box 17341       |  E-mail: msoques@mozart.AMD.COM
         Austin, TX 78760      |  phone: (512) 440-1694
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: checking spark
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 92 07:42:25 GMT

maral@repare.EBay.Sun.COM writes:
: What is the best way (safest as well) to check for spark if one does
: not have a timing light?  I just want to verify I have spark coming
: from my distributor.  
: 
IMHO, the best way to check would be to get another spark plug (old one is OK),
connect the wire to it, then touch the ground of the plug to the block & have
an assistant crank the engine.  It is important that there ALWAYS be a plug
on the wire for the spark to go to, otherwise extremely high voltages will
be generated & possibly damage ignition system components.

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - you get what you pay for; you pay (and pay, and pay) for what you get.
hinz@picard.med.ge.com


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: esprit@netcom.com (Alan F. Perry)
Subject: Inline fuel filters
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 92 17:24:22 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 


I am going to replace the fuel filter on my Lotus soon.  The fuel filter
is "inline" with the fuel line clamped onto either end.  I have seen a
few different designs, but I have no idea which design does the job best.
Does anyone out there know?

alan

From: Steve.Kaess@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Steve Kaess)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Carbon Buildup in engines ( valves ? ).....
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 15:50:21 -0500

Ok I forgot one tiny minor point, but still take the 1800/4=450 cc 
assume 10:1=45 cc...at 2000 rpm each piston will do a u-down cycle 
2000 times...divide by 2 for 4 stroke=1000x45x4=180000 cc a min, 
or 3000cc a sec unless there is some further problem with my figures 
and figuring I think that there is almost no chance of popin yer 
head with this trick...
From: bae@hplsdll.col.hp.com (Bruce Erickson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Left turn light acting verrry strange -- help!
Date: 27 Jul 92 15:12:56 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Logic Systems Operation

My thanks to 'wb8foz@skybridge.scl.cwru.edu' who sent me this mail
message (and my reply, for those who were curious):

> Only *ONE* possible cause - bad grounds.
> Anything weird such as this caused by the ground at one of the lights
> being bad. So when you send +13 vdc to a light, instead of the other
> side of the lamp being at 0vdc, it 'floats' and then passes voltage
> back to the other filament.
>
> Oh,, there is SLIGHT chance that a dual filament lamp has the
> two touching somehow, but I doubt it.

.and that is EXACTLY what the problem was!  I replaced the parking/turn
light (a two filament bulb) when I saw the two filaments were touching,
and my problems were fixed!

> --
> A host is a host from coast to coast..wb8foz@skybridge.scl.cwru.edu
> & no one will talk to a host that's close..........................
> Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
> is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

            Bruce Erickson
From: jdt@voodoo.boeing.com (Jim Tomlinson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Ailing transmission in remission?
Date: 27 Jul 92 16:35:57 GMT
Reply-To: jdt@voodoo.boeing.com
Distribution: na
Organization: BoGART To You, Buddy


    Here's one that's got me stumped (no great feat).  1986 Toyota
Tercel, 4-speed: pulling out of a gas station last night, there was a
resounding clunk!, and suddenly we had no gears.  The transmission felt
like the 4-speed+reverse pattern was gone, replaced by a random set of
points (it felt like a transmission implementation of the drunkard's
walk).  We got it into something that resembled neutral, and pushed it
_backwards_ into a parking spot.  After much hemming and hawing as to
what to do, I decided to try it again before calling the tow truck, and
lo-and-behold, the transmission had magically been healed (and Jimmy
Swaggart was not even in the neighborhood).  Any ideas on the cause of
this fleeting malady?
    Thanx much in advance.
-- 
Jim Tomlinson    BoGART Project    Boeing Computer Services    Bellevue, WA
jdt@voodoo.boeing.com       ...uunet!bcstec!voodoo!jdt        (206)865-6578 
         "Airplanes are cool." - the man on the street in Seattle
From: avk@hafnium.cchem.berkeley.edu (Tony Konashenok)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Charging A/C with Freon
Date: 22 Jul 1992 21:07:57 GMT
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
Distribution: na
NNTP-Posting-Host: hafnium.cchem.berkeley.edu

In article <1992Jul22.091515.5160@mr.med.ge.com>, hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987) writes:
|> lihan@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Bruce G. Bostwick) writes:
|> : In article <1992Jul20.153331.24083@bnr.ca> Peon w/o Email priv (Eric Youngblood) writes:
|> : 
|> : Speaking of which, are ALL CFC's ozone-killers or just the ones with
|> : chlorine in them?  I would imagine the pure flourocarbons (like CFC-14
|> : which is pure perflouromethane) could be called into service ...
    <Stuff deleted>
|> 
|> Um....CFC means 'Chlorinated Flourocarbon', so by definition they all have
|> chlorine.  Not all refrigerants, however, do.
|> 
|> I read somewhere that SAAB has started shipping cars (about a year ago)
|> with some other, non-nasty refrigerant in it, I beleive it has a designation
|> of '114' or something....anyone else heard of this?
|> 
|> --
|> 
|> Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
|> SAAB - you get what you pay for; you pay (and pay, and pay) for what you get.
|> hinz@picard.med.ge.com

Unfortunately, Freon 14 has very low boiling point, and its critical temperature
is also pretty low (about 115 F), so it's practically impossible to use it in A/C
(unless you're willing to make it 3 times heavier). Freon 114 is C2Cl2F4 - contains
chlorine. Generally speaking, the meaning of digits in Freon names is the following:
from right to left:
  number of F atoms
  number of H atoms plus 1
  number of C atoms minus 1 (often absent, i.e. 0 -> 1 atom of C)
All the rest is chlorine. If there's anything else in the molecule, then the
number of atoms is deignated by a digit after a letter designating the chemical
element.
Examples: 12 = CCl2F2; 21 = CHCl2F; 113 = C2Cl3F3; 114B2 = C2Br2F4.

There are non-CFC substances usable in A/C, and they are even used in large
industrial refrigerators. However, go figure what is better to have in a relatively
leak-prone car A/C: notorious CFC's or ammonia or sulphur dioxide (two classic
refrigerants!). The latter two are nasty AND stinky...

-- 
Tony Konashenok   avk@hafnium.cchem.berkeley.edu   (510)527-7524 (home)
University of California, Berkeley                 (510)642-5831 (office)

Strauss research group, Latimer Hall, UC Berkeley, Berkeley CA 94720, U.S.A.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: Miles Per Gallona
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 21:42:16 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL
Keywords: Miles Per Gallon Chevy 250 6 cylinder

 I saw about 1MPG when I switched my van from a Qjet to a Holley 650.
From 8 MPG to 9MPG. If I jetted it lean enough I could get up to 13MPG
on the highway but it was hard starting and stumbled some. Can't have
everything I guess. Actually the idle mixture could be set by changing
some air corrector bushings but it's too much bother.

 An idle A/C belt doesn't cost you too much power. The L6 motors in older
cars weren't that efficient. Be happy with 16 sez I.
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
From: tr@samadams.princeton.edu (Tom Reingold)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: grinding gears when revving engine at high speed
Date: 28 Jul 92 15:52:02 GMT
Organization: Noo Joizy, USA

In some situations, I want to accelerate quickly from a standstill to
merge onto a high-traffic, high-speed road.  My Saab 9000S has a
normally aspirated 2.0 liter 16 valve engine.  The car weighs about
3000 pounds, so acceleration isn't that good.  With this, combined
with a very low first gear, quick acceleration doesn't come without
some effort.

When I rev the engine to nearly redline, shifting to second gear is
very tricky.  I try to pull the shifter into second, and instead of
going in, it gives resistance and the transmission makes a very loud
grinding sound.  What causes this?  More importantly, what is the
proper way to shift quickly in this situation?
--
        Tom Reingold
        tr@samadams.princeton.edu  OR  ...!princeton!samadams!tr
        "Warning: Do not drive with Auto-Shade in place.  Remove
        from windshield before starting ignition."
From: hugo@bluehau.bubble.org (Hugo Bueno)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Charging A/C with Freon
Keywords: CFC's
Date: 26 Jul 92 13:23:38 GMT
Organization: The Blue House

pburke@vms.macc.wisc.edu (Peter Burke, MIC, 608-263-7744) says:
>In article <1992Jul25.154235.29252@en.ecn.purdue.edu>, ghg@en.ecn.purdue.edu (George Goble) writes...
>
>>Hydrocarbons:  Blend of 21% isobutane, 79% propane (by weight)
>>       These are flammable, so be careful. I assume no liability
>>       if you do this and blow up or burn yourself or others.
>>       ....
>
>I may just go ahead and do this - not knowing if the system I am 
>charging has a leak or not (bought a used vehicle that had an engine 
>swapped in - compressor and every fitting had been disconnected). Sounds 
>just like the kind of low-tech solution I have been looking for.  Just 
>need to find some adapters now.  I'll let you know if I see some blue 
>flames in my engine compartment.

What most people are missing in this discussion is that the
MANUFACTURE of CFC's will be stopped soon. You can still use it!
It will just be more expensive to find, generally because supplies
will be from recycled sources.
-- 
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Hugo Bueno  |Delphi  : MRGOOD  CIS: 71211,3662
Fanwood, NJ |Internet: hugo@bluehau.bubble.org
CoCo 3 UUCP |UUCP    : ...!s4mjs!bluehau!hugo
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: singletn@eagle.larc.nasa.gov (Jeff Singleton)
Subject: Re: MPG on 4WD's
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Organization: NASA Langley Research Center - Hampton, VA USA
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 14:52:58 GMT

In article <1992Jul30.131703.7543@cs.tulane.edu>,
finnegan@invader.navo.navy.mil (Kenneth Finnegan) wrote:
> 
> I recently purchased a 1990 Isuzu Trooper, and have been going
> through the typical maintenance/check items.  I have calculated
> my average mileage (50/50 hwy/city) as around 17mpg.
> 
     <some stuff deleted>

> Anyone have any info they would like to share?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Kenneth
> finnegan@navo.navy.mil

  I have a 92 Ford Explorer XLT, 4.0L V6, performance (limited
  slip) rear axle, automatic, 4WD.  I get about 16 mpg around
  town and at least 20 mpg highway.  A friend of mine has
  a similar Explorer except that he does not have the performance
  axle.  On a recent trip to Florida he got around 24 mpg.

  Of course, this region of Virginia is pretty flat.  Your actual
  mileage may vary.

    jeff singleton
From: rcrandall@sc9.intel.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Run On
Date: 21 Jul 92 22:19:37 GMT
Organization: Intel CTD



I've got a 68 camaro with a 327 small block.  In the morning, if the
choke is not completely off, and I shut the ignition off, the car will
run on.  I want to know if anybody knows of the best method of getting
the motor stopped in a case like this.  It has run as long as 30 seconds
and usually backfires in the process.  

Rob

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: eur@dutncp2.tn.tudelft.nl (Eur van Andel)
Subject: Re: backup lights on audi 5000S
Organisation: TU Delft, The Netherlands
Organization: Delft University of Technology
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 11:24:45 GMT

In <1992Jul28.202942.12745@leland.Stanford.EDU> tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen) writes:

>well, i just discovered that the car's backup lights are on
>whenever the parking lights or headlights are on.  doesn't matter
>whether it's in reverse or neutral.  pretty annoying.
>has anybody run into this before?  on a related note, where can i
>find a manual for this car?  i've never seen a chilton's for
>the '86 5000S.  since the car is 6 years old, i'd rather not
>pay the dealer megabucks to fix this.

Lie under your car and check out the two wires that go into your gearbox.
Screw out the reverse switch (beware of leaking oil) and clean it of 
year worth of grime, dust & soot. Try to get it moving again
and have your wife standing behind your car to check if the backup lights are
working properly again.

If that doesn't work, undo the wiring  of you back lights and check for any
shorts.

eur
From: mikec@hpgrla.gr.hp.com (Mike Christensen)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: How to use blue silicone RTV
Date: 29 Jul 92 23:39:14 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Greeley, CO

I've had this same problem but on a thermostat housing.  The best way to solve
this problem (that I've found) is to spread the blue RTV on the gasket surface
and then wait a good 20 minutes.  After waiting, the RTV, although still soft,
has cured to the point that you can fully torque the bolts and still not 
squeeze the stuff out.  It works for me anyhow.

					Mike Christensen (used to hate blue
								RTV until I
								figured out 
								this trick)