HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: lorrayne@smiley.mitre.org (Lorrayne Schaefer)
Subject: Anyone know how to use Night Sentry?
Organization: The MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 12:43:47 GMT


I bought a home that has Night Sentry.  Night Sentry is a timer for an
outside light.  It was working just fine until my father started
playing with it.  Now, I don't have the slightest idea how to set the
thing to turn on at a certain hour, and how to turn it off at a
certain time.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: seeking copy of NEC..
Keywords: NEC
Date: 9 Oct 92 00:55:23 GMT
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ

In article <Bvt1zp.DL5@scd.hp.com> toml@wal.hp.com (Tom Luteran) writes:
>  I'm trying to buy a copy of the National Electric Code (NEC) book.  Can
>  someone tell me if this should be available at electric supply houses or
>  do I have to order it by mail from some organization?  Not an item they
>  stock at Home Depot, at least ;-).

You ought to also get a copy of the Federal Wiring Handbook (since I
was forced to sell my copy years ago, that may not be the correct title).
This contains recommended wiring techniques, methods of calculating the
amount of lighting required for a room, wind powered electrical system
advice, and more. This should be available from a bookstore (I originally
got mine through the University of Tennessee bookstore).

patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | "Unfair Competition": Selling cheaper than we do.
George Patterson -  | "Note and Initial": Let's spread the responsibility
                    |    for this.
                    |         Kelvin Throop - The Management Dictionary
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: mallick@crd.ge.com (John Mallick)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Aluminum wiring (was: Square-D electrical panel)
Keywords: Aluminum wiring
Date: 7 Oct 92 21:17:45 GMT
Reply-To: mallick@crd.ge.com
Distribution: usa
Organization: GE Corp. Research And Development


For what it's worth, most utility transmission lines are aluminum (actually,
ACSR--Aluminum Conductor Steel Reinforced) and they seem to work OK.  The only problems
with aluminum are in the connections, and those are made at the meter by the power
company, who should know what they are doing.  You just don't want any aluminum wiring in
the house, where the connections to outlets and switches are more problematic (and there
are a lot more of them).


-- 

John A. Mallick WA1HNL
GE Corporate Research and Development
Schenectady, NY 12301
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Mysterious Hole
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 92 23:09:33 GMT

In article <1992Oct12.224531.27366@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> stacey@prefect.uucp (24462-lebitz) writes:

>>I have recently discovered a large, 5'x5'x5' square hole that is lined with

>How much do you think it would take to fill it in?

This is slightly less than 8.5 cubic yards. I would recommend filling it
most of the way with gravel or broken cinder block - something cheap and
fairly solid - with about two feet of dirt on top. Mound the dirt over; it
will settle for several years. Plant a tough grass there, because you'll
have to add a little more dirt each year for some time.

patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | Alpha test version - Too buggy to be released.
                    | Beta test version - Still too buggy to be released.
George Patterson -  | Release 1.0 - Alternate pronunciation of beta
                    |   test version.
                    |                            The Dumpty Dictionary
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: jfox@hooksett.East.Sun.COM (John Fox - SunExpress IR)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: This Old House
Date: 9 Oct 92 12:50:23 GMT
Reply-To: jfox@hooksett.East.Sun.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
NNTP-Posting-Host: hooksett.east.sun.com

In article 28831@cbnews.cb.att.com, trb@cbnews.cb.att.com (tom.balent) writes:
>In article <kalagher-081092081927@m04474-mac.mitre.org> kalagher@mitre.org (Dick Kalagher) writes:
>>
>>I have seen the first show.  It was on last Sunday.  It is a 1950's
>>house--not
>>an 1858 house.  It's a 50's style ranch that the homeownewrs have outgrown.
>
>I just saw it last night...I could not beleive my ears when the owner
>said he has had a number of reators look at the house and appraise it
>at $250,000!!!!!  Are prices that high in the Boston area?  


Pretty crazy huh? Yes, certain Boston suburbs command very high prices for
relatively modest homes. That's one of the reasons we (and countless 
others) settled in southern New Hampshire. The same house 60 miles north
would be between 80-120K.


John
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: jkchan@lynx.cat.syr.edu (J. K. Chan)
Subject: Rent in San Fran
Organization: Syracuse University
Distribution: usa
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 92 00:18:21 EDT


I am going to move to San Fran., CA in a month or so.  Could someone
tell me which area is comparatively safe and inexpensive to live over there?  
Especially in or near Hercules which is northeast to Richmond.
Any advice or suggestion is appreciated.
  
Please send email to the above address.
Thanks.
-Jim 

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: clos@trentu.ca (CHRIS LOS)
Subject: Need Advice on Drainage Tile
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: Trent University Computer Services Department
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 14:34:00 GMT



Soon I will be installing some new drainage tile around the base of my 
foundation and was wondering what type is best. I have discovered there
are 3 types;  plastic pipe that is perforated all around, plastic pipe
with perforations on the bottom side only, and thirdly, plastic pipe
that is fully perforated and covered with a fabric sock.

Any advice would be much appreciated.
From: judson@watnxt2.ucr.edu (Michael Judson)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Electricity Time of Use Meters
Date: 9 Oct 92 03:06:22 GMT

Does anyone have one of these?  I am considering using a Time of Use Meter
but I wanted to know if anyone has any experience and if so how much of a
savings you've been getting over non-timed use.

--
"I drank what?" -- Socrates

judson@watserv.ucr.edu
From: jeq@i88.isc.com (Jonathan E. Quist)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: This Old House
Date: 14 Oct 92 21:51:14 GMT
Article-I.D.: i88.1992Oct14.215114.1308
Organization: INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation, Naperville, IL

In article <2928072147@ARTEMIS.cam.nist.gov> miller@FS1.cam.nist.gov (Bruce R. Miller) writes:
>
>In article <1992Oct14.123500.6755@ucsu.Colorado.EDU>, Robert T. Weverka writes:
>> I think they should add a little guest house in back.  They have
>> a big lot.  The extra house could serve them as a guest room, and
...
>It may not be allowed;  I wanted to build a garage w/ in-law-apartment
>on top.  I found out that, in  our county (Carroll, MD), there can be
>only one connected `living space' per `lot'.

Simple - just rezone into two lots.... :')

(My house sits on 5 lots, as they were originally zoned on our block.
 My next door neighbor tells me that his, which sits on 3 of the original
 lots, had two property tax bills for many years until he finally
 convinced the county it was a silly arrangement.  The second bill was for
 a portion of another lot that was added to his in the distant past...)
-- 
Jonathan E. Quist                              INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation
jeq@i88.isc.com  '71 CL450-K4 "Gleep", DoD #094        Naperville, IL
        There are many things a person should experience in a lifetime.
       Among them are an infant's first cry, and an infant's first laugh.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Removing Old Caulk
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 92 15:52:09 GMT

In article <1992Oct12.183330.23821@dg-rtp.dg.com> eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com writes:

>Are you folks talking about caulk (comes in tubes; used to seal, for example,
>between a window frame and siding), or glazing compound (comes in a can or tub,
>used to seal glass into the window frame?

I'm talking about whatever someone used to seal the joint between the
glass and window frame. I've seen both glazing compound and caulk used
for this (depending on the inclination of the craftsman). My father would
use a layer of glazing compound to cover the points and then make the
whole thing pretty with a caulking gun.

Whatever the technique, most people I've known called it "caulking" the
windows.

>Working the glazing compound in your hands to warm and soften it makes it
>a lot easier to apply.

'Deed it does.

patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | You can't find the answers in the bottom of a
George Patterson -  | whiskey glass, but if you look hard enough, you'll
                    | forget the questions.
                    |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: joel@skater.GSFC.NASA.Gov ("Joel K. Gallun")
Subject: Help need with plastic water pipe problem!
Organization: Goddard Space Flight Center, Greenbelt, Md, USA
Distribution: misc
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 20:08:08 GMT

Hi,

The houses in my neighborhood, average age 5 years, are suffering
from broken water inlet pipes (the one from the shutoff valve
by the street to the water meter inside the house). This causes
the basement to flood and requires that the front yard to be dug
up in order to replace it, at a cost of about $1500 per house.

Monday, my next door neighbor's broke, which made me think,
should I go ahead and replace mine, or wait until it breaks?

I talked to my insurance agent and he said that any damage due
to flooding would be covered, but the cost of replacing the
pipe would not be.

I looked at where the pipe enters the house.  Not enough of it
is exposed to allow me to identify it.  It appears that the
plastic pipe was simply pushed through a hole in the cinderblock
wall and then mortared into place and waterproofed (parged?)
on the outside.  There appears to be NO reinforcing sleeve
or anything around it.  The yard has settled some over where
the pipe runs, maybe 4 to 6 inches.

Does anyone have any experience advice on what to do in this 
situation?


--
Joel Gallun                        Internet: nnjkg@robots.gsfc.nasa.gov
NASA Goddard Space Flight Center      Voice: (301) 805-4545
#include <std_disclaimer>             Snail: Code 735, GSFC, Greenbelt MD 20771
From: judson@watnxt2.ucr.edu (Michael Judson)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Electricity Time of Use Meters
Date: 11 Oct 92 00:21:19 GMT

In article <sturges-091092102539@158.185.20.246>  
sturges@master.lds-az.loral.com (Jim Sturges) writes:

> and significantly less on either time-scale. I pay .055/KwH on peak and .03
> off peak. Kinda like free electricity at night. With a 3155 sqft house, I
> have set peak on-peak at 5.0Kw and peak off-peak at 10.0Kw.

> If you get just the TOU, you can save some money, especially if you're not
> home during the day. If one of you is home during the day, I recommend
> getting the load controller in addition.

First of all, where can you get a load controller?  That sounds like an
interesting idea.  Does the electric company off those gadgets?  Or do
you get one at a hardware store?
Secondly, you say that you only pay .055/Kwh on peak and .03 off peak?
That is a real bargain.  No wonder our bill is so high.  Under non Time of
Use billing, the rate is .07426 for the first 250 KwH, and .10908 for every
KwH thereafter.  With TOU, during the winter, it's .149 on peak and .039
off peak.
As for savings, from what I've calculated, without actually installing a
TOU meter yet, my savings will be about 35%.
My original question was how much of a savings have others received.

--
"I drank what?" -- Socrates

judson@watserv.ucr.edu
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: GFCIs and the Garbage Disposal/Dishwasher outlet
Date: 13 Oct 92 05:01:13 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <1992Oct9.170836.21179@exu.ericsson.se> exukev@exu.ericsson.se (Kevin Autrey) writes:
>I'm about to install a Garbage Disposer (GD) in my kitchen sink (I
>thought about putting it in the oven, but it just didn't make good
>ergonomic sense).  I will need to run a new circuit for this GD - 
>because this GD is going where no GD has gone before.  Does the outlet
>for this type of appliance need to be GFCI protected?

>Normally, I'd GFCI it - hey $8 is nothing for a guy with a Home Depot
>Credit Card - but there's a hitch!  The circuit that I'm going to run
>will actually be a "multi-wire branch circuit" with just one outlet -
>that outlet under the sink.  My intention is making one side of the
>circuit dedicated for the GD, the other side dedicated for a
>dishwasher (how the previous owners got along without a Waste King
>2600 Garbage Disposal unit and a Maytag JetClean dishwasher for 38
>years, I will *never* know).

>So, the difference here is not just an $8 GFCI outlet, but an
>expensive multi-pole GFCI breaker.

>Anybody know what the NEC says about such a situation (the GD/DW
>circuit and GFCIs)?  I'd appreciate any and all comments.

Since you'd be splitting the loads at this point, you could probably
get away with using a GFCI outlet in a box on one side of the
circuit, and your direct connect (without GFCI) for the dishwasher off
the other side of the circuit in the same box.

That is, if it's direct connect.  If not, you'll need a dual box.
(plus another GFCI if you want to GFCI the washer)

Remember that the neutrals must be split *before* the GFCI(s).
(ie: on the line side, not the load side)  Otherwise, it won't
work at all.

Though, this use of a dual circuit may be a bit iffy with your
inspector.   Here, inspectors like seeing 20A/12ga circuits
for dishwashers.

Don't forget the dual breaker or tiebars.

My impression of the NEC requirements is that permanently installed
appliances of this type don't need GFCIs.  Definately isn't needed
in the CEC, but some local inspectors do like seeing GFCI's on
clothes washers.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: gordon@sneaky.lonestar.org (Gordon Burditt)
Subject: Re: FREE REFINANCING
Organization: Gordon Burditt
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 05:20:24 GMT

>Rates are the lowest in years! We have loans at NO COST at all to you!!

No cost at all, huh?  I guess this means zero interest (or negative
interest), and no late fees.  Sounds like a great deal, or a scam.
Any guesses as to which?

>We'll come to your home to fill the application.

In Texas?

					Gordon L. Burditt
					sneaky.lonestar.org!gordon
From: sad@sei.cmu.edu (Susan Dart)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: House inspection showed pest infestation
Date: 9 Oct 92 20:59:50 GMT
Article-I.D.: sei.1992Oct9.205950.24035
Organization: Software Engineering Institute


The only problem found when we had the house we are buying inspected, was that
the outside (being a cedar house) has evidence of carpenter bees, and other
bees and wasps infestation.

The sellers have given us evidence that they have a pest controller treat
their property twice a year. But, the inspection said there is still
infestation. We have asked the sellers to get any damage repaired (e.g, the
carpenter bee holes) and to have the outside retreated. We think this is
reasonable. 

Is there anything else we should ask of the sellers - will treatment fix the
problem or will it continue to occur? What evidence should we ask of the
sellers to prove they had proper treatment done? Should we have a reinspection
for the infestation after treatment?

thanks
Susan Dart
sad@sei.cmu.edu
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: hal@osf.org (Hal Lichtin)
Subject: Re: This Old House
Reply-To: hal@osf.org (Hal Lichtin)
Organization: Open Software Foundation
	<kalagher-081092081927@m04474-mac.mitre.org>
	<1992Oct9.103430.28831@cbnews.cb.att.com>
	<JEFF.92Oct9093530@claw.clearpoint.com>
Distribution: na
Date: 9 Oct 92 12:37:17

I'm not sure the program said, but I've read (well, my wife read and
told me) that the house is in Lexington, one of the "prestige" towns
in an already expensive area.  Also, I believe that the show said the
house was on ~ 1/2 acre.  I'd bet that most of the appraisal is for
land costs.
--


				Hal Lichtin
				Open Software Foundation
				hal@osf.org  (617) 621-8809
From: clark_b@cho006.cho.ge.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Help: water heater needing reset often
Date: 7 Oct 92 19:49:56 GMT
Organization: GE Fanuc Automation, North America


I have an electric tank-style hot water heater.  It has been exhibiting
a problem recently:  it turns itself off and requires use of the "reset"
button.  This happens intermittently, usually no more than once per day
or five times per week.  It sometimes does not happen at all for months.
I would like to fix it, but I don't understand what the problem is.

The reset button appears to be related to the thermostat.  The unit has
both upper and lower elements and thermostats, but only the upper 
thermostat has the reset button.  

As background information, we also have a lot of sediment buildup and
have to replace the elements about once a year.

If you have any advice about either problem, please e-mail.  (I'm not
a regular reader - please refer me to existing FAQ if appropriate.)

Thanks,
	Beth
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: jeq@i88.isc.com (Jonathan E. Quist)
Subject: Re: This Old House
Organization: INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation, Naperville, IL
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 20:30:44 GMT

In article <1992Oct13.194113.19578@adobe.com> pngai@adobe.com (Phil Ngai) writes:
>In article <1992Oct13.164117.5561@colorado.edu> wouk@alumni.cs.colorado.edu (Arthur Wouk) writes:
>>i am not commenting on the entertainment value of the program,
>>just about the reality of the owners requirements. is this a case of
>>more money then sense?
>
>If they can afford it and want it, why do you feel it necessary
>to question them?
>
>Do you think they should do something else with their money?

If they are going into the project understanding all that, fine.
Two blocks from us is a formerly small house.  The realtor advised them
that building an addition would not increase the value of the house.
The owners did so anyhow.  They invested between $40k and $50k on
renovations and additions.  Because of the neighborhood, and the size
of the house compared with surrounding houses, investing that money
increased the value of the house by roughly $10k.  In other words,
were they forced to sell for whatever reason, they will have lost
nearly $40k in equity.  Yes, they have the right to do what they want.
But with the current state of the economy, I wonder if they were advised
on the realities of life.....
-- 
Jonathan E. Quist                              INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation
jeq@i88.isc.com  '71 CL450-K4 "Gleep", DoD #094        Naperville, IL
        There are many things a person should experience in a lifetime.
       Among them are an infant's first cry, and an infant's first laugh.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: ahill@boi.hp.com (Andy Hill)
Subject: Re: Can't Stand the Heat in the Kitchen
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 00:40:38 GMT
Reply-To: ahill@boi.hp.com
Organization: LaserJets by Bill & Dave
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

Gary Heston (gary@cdthq.UUCP) wrote:
> Call the inspection department; I think you'll find that it's a code 
> violation to combine exhaust ducts from different gas appliances.
> 
> Have it fixed, before things progress much further.
> 
It's certainly not a code violation around here (Boise), at least not for
stuff in the garage.  Code is probably a lot more stringent for situations
where you could vent CO back into the house (i.e., common flue for furnace
and stove).
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: sgrainge@memo.osf.org (Steven Grainger)
Subject: Re: cablevision distortion on splitter
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 19:39:49 GMT

>   I also have a lot of interference and am using a splitter. Would it be 
>better if I got one of those amplified splitters. Would there be any
>danger of overloading the input to the television with such a device?
>
>                               Pete

I was looking at a box in Radio Shack last week, it had 5 input and
5 output plugs. I was wondering if anyone had any experience with
this piece of equipment. It seems have a splitter and amp built into
the box.

thanks
-- 

Steven Grainger          | I stalk the wild trout. 
Open Software Foundation |
11 Cambridge Center, MA  |
1 617 621 8894           | sgrainge@osf.org    uunet!osf!sgrainge
From: goddard@NeXTwork.Rose-Hulman.Edu (Bart Goddard)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Building near property line
Date: 8 Oct 1992 14:04:33 GMT
Organization: Computer Science Department at Rose-Hulman
Distribution: usa
Reply-To: goddard@NeXTwork.Rose-Hulman.Edu (Bart Goddard)
NNTP-Posting-Host: g214-1.nextwork.rose-hulman.edu



In my hometown, a garage could be erected flush with the property line,
as long as the entry was from the alley and the door was 6' from the  
line.

bart
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: sbayles@mwunix.mitre.org (Scott Bayles)
Subject: Peerless-Aire Humidifier for gas furnace
Summary: Need infor on Peerless-Aire humidifiers
Keywords: humidifier
Organization: The MITRE Corporation
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 17:07:46 GMT

I have an ancient humidifier attached to my gas furnace. It is a
Peerless-Aire model 31001. We just bought the house and discovered this
feature. Unfortunately the filter (and water) have not been changed in who
knows how long!!!

I've called just about every appliance, heating & AC, and plumber supplier
in the metro DC area, but no one can help me with this brandname. Anybody
have any suggestions? The filter is about 5" in diameter. Do I just need to
replace the sponge or the whole plastic wheel & sponge?? Are these standard
filters, such that I can use any generic brand's filter?? 

I can not read the label to tell me where Peerless Aire is headquartered,
so an address would be helpful at the very least.

Thanks,

Scott (sbayles@mitre.org)