HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: stewarte@sco.COM (just a guy made of dots and lines)
Subject: Re: how about a US brewpub list?
Organization: Captain Napalm's Thermonuclear League of Liberty
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 22:53:33 GMT


It's been pointed out to me that the information I proposed 
compiling already exists, in the form of John Mellby's Pub List.
While it's broader in scope than what I proposed (it's a worldwide
list of places to get beer, including brewpubs, quality non-brewing
pubs, stores with notable selection of beers, etc.) it seems to 
cover brewpubs quite well.  It's dated July 1, 1992, so John must
be maintaining it still.  You can find it in the homebrew ftp
archive (sierra.stanford.edu) under the name "publist.Z".

-- Stewart
-- 
"The world would be a better place if it were just women and me."
					-- Andy Partridge
/*  uunet!sco!stewarte  -or-  stewarte@sco.COM  -or-  Stewart Evans  */
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: aki <aki@akidamme-233324.worldbank.org>
Subject: How long does it take? Forever?
X-Xxmessage-Id: <A6DA769AE5082631@akidamme-233324.worldbank.org>
X-Xxdate: Mon, 14 Sep 92 22:04:26 GMT
Organization: The World Bank
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d8
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 21:10:51 GMT

I'm COMPLETELY BAFFLED!  I've been fermenting a batch
now for over 4 weeks on wine yeast!  I checked the 
temperature in the basement and it's been a pretty
steady 65 degrees.  When I first put the yeast in,
there was hardly any action for the first week.
Then it slowly started to bubble through the air 
lock (the temp of the wort was also around 65)
Now FOUR weeks later it seems more active
than ever before!  Just how LONG does this stuff
take to settle out?  I've never used wine yeast
before so I'm at a complete loss as to how long
to expect this batch to take.  This
must be the yeast from hell or something! 
HELP!


-Aki
The Worldbank Wash. D.C.
E-mail: aki@akidamme-233324.worldbank.org
(202)458-1112
DoD 0628
PBA 2294
*************************************
"How come the best bowling ball for
me is always the one I don't own?"
*************************************
From: adam@wb9rxw.lonestar.org (Adam Adkins)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Poor Conversion Efficiency
Summary: What am I doing wrong?
Date: 8 Sep 92 03:55:29 GMT
Organization: American Airlines - Comm Engineering


     I'm hoping some of the vast experience out there in brewing land will
help me out.  Here's the problem:
     I am a relative newcomer to this fine hobby (7 batches) and took the 
plunge to all-grain brewing soon, for mainly economic reasons.  I have 
done four all grain batches, and while the taste is good, the conversion 
effeciency is not so good. :(  My last two batches have come out to O.G.
of about 1.043, with 9 and 11 pounds of grain, respectively (with whatever
effeciency rating that happens to be.)  The question of course, is what am
I doing wrong?  It seems fairly obvious that there is a flaw in my procedure
somewhere.
     I'm thinking that it may be a matter of sparging, since I read most 
people have a total sparge time of about 1 to 1.5 hours.  Mine is averaging
about 40 minutes.  Would a short sparge time cause (apparent) low conversion
effeciency?  I know that if I made a new inner bucket for the tun (I use
the "two bucket" tun system) that it would slow down the sparging process,
but I am an especially lazy person, and don't crave having to drill a ton
of holes in another bucket.  Which, of course, brings up, "How many holes?"
     To round out the process, a) I do recycle until the wort clears up 
and flow slows down (about 5 to 10 minutes) b) the sparge water is heated
to about 165 to 170 degrees and acidified to about p.H 5.7 c) I give about
5 minutes for the grain to settle.
     Any suggestions would be welcome, either about sparging or some other
facet of the process I may be missing.  Thanks to all.

Adam 

-- 
Adam Adkins			"That which doesn't kill me,
				 only makes me stronger"
				 Frederick Nietzche
From: ulick@angelico.helios.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: ROACHES !
Date: 4 Sep 92 15:54:55 GMT
Organization: University of Notre Dame, Notre Dame

In article <1992Sep3.203357.26365@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu> dsbb@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (D. SPENCER BEECHER) writes:
>In article <1992Sep01.193459.27755@srg.srg.af.mil>, akerson@deimos.srg.af.mil (P
>ete Akerson - akerson%srg@uunet.uucp) writes:
>
>>  Ortho's Flea-Be-Gone will kill anything. Even fish in a tank accross
>>the house  :-(  ( Obviously I dont own the Ortho. Corp. )
>
>
>ORTHO???  NO!  (Please; it kills bugs, how healthy could it be for the rest
>of us?
>
>A little boric acid (available at many hardware stores) sprinkled on the floor
>around the perimeter of the room will deter the little buggers.  As they walk
>across it, dragging their little bodies behind, it gets into their breathing
>apparatus and they suffocate.  This insecticidic method is more mechanical
>than chemical, and there's less risk of contaminating nearby foodstuffs!
>

Also sold as Borax for laundery.  After spreding some n mule team Borax
(where n is a number I can't remember) between the window and storm
window and between the door and screen door, ants stopped coming in.
Now if only I could prevent fleas with something other than a 
disjusting spray that causes the cats to puke when they lick temselves.


+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 
+ 'There was a  master come unto the earth, + Ulick Stafford, PP-ASEL       +
+    born in the holy land of Indiana,      + Dept of Chemical Engineering, +
+ in the mystical hills east of Fort Wayne'.+ Notre Dame, IN 46556          +
+      B'fhearr liom bheith ag eitilt.      +    ulick@bach.helios.nd.edu   +
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jeq@i88.isc.com (Jonathan E. Quist)
Subject: Re: Big Brewers (was High Gravity)
Organization: INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation, Naperville, IL
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 20:28:25 GMT

In article <1992Sep15.185354.20052@mmm.serc.3m.com> us279764@mmm.serc.3m.com (Philip . Miller) writes:
(JS, I think, wrote):
>> American big beer, simply does NOT taste like beer.
>
> Jack, what you're implying is that American brewers are trying to
> pull one over on the public.  That, in essence, they would sell us
...
> Imagine for a minute, that Miller _could_ call water "beer" and they
> marketed it as Miller Mega Lyte.  Who would buy it?  Nobody.  Even the
> average American beer drinking Joe isn't _that_ stupid.  I mean, he may
> try to use his lawn mower as a pair of hedge clippers and slice off his
> fingers, but his isn't gonna pay $3.50 for a six pack of water...

I don't know...  I went to a private university.  Supposedly in the top 20
(maybe even top 10) in the U.S.  At the time, a B.S. ran somewhere between
$48k and $60k.  So at the commencement ceremony, when the corks started
flying from various corners of the room, were they popping $9 bottles of
Korbel or Totts, or even a $20 Moet & Chandon?  No, they were plastic
corks flying out of $2.50 Andre's.  These allegedly intelligent kids
could probably tell the difference, but just didn't know any better.
Now expand this sample to the general population, where you've got folks
with the "Hamms was good enough for my dad, so that's all I'll ever drink"
mentality; the only way they'll ever try something different is if it
sits in the liquor store long enough to go on clearance, in which case
they'll never see it again at the same price...  I think you're giving
the average American credit for a little too much intelligence,
initiative, and imagination.    ( 1/2 :') )

For that matter, how does the beer of the working class outside
the U.S. compare with their finer brews?  Or does the rest of
the world take their beer more seriously, and refine their tastes
at an early age?  (Comments from our European/UK/Oz readers?)


> And that's the way it is with American beers, too.  I don't like the
> average American beer any better than you do, but the only people
> "forcing" cheap beer on the American public _is_ the American public.
>
> If every beer drinker in the United States suddenly stopped buying
> Budmilloors and started buying Baderbrau (to pick Jack's favorite), you
> can bet your last homebrew that the Big Boys would start brewing
> Baderbrau imitations within a week.

If everyone started drinking Baderbrau, the first response would be
increased advertising, convincing Joe Public how wonderful the light
lagers are.  (After all, if <Fred Football Pro> drinks it, it must
be good.  If they paid me to endorse Bud, I suppose I could acquire
a taste for it again...)

-- 
Jonathan E. Quist                              INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation
jeq@i88.isc.com  '71 CL450-K4 "Gleep", DoD #094        Naperville, IL
        There are many things a person should experience in a lifetime.
       Among them are an infant's first cry, and an infant's first laugh.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: klett@ghill.enet.dec.com (Michael Klett)
Subject: Re: "Dry" Beer?
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 1992 22:31:21 GMT


In article <1992Sep6.031036.8376@synapse.bms.com>, gopstein@helix.bms.com (Rich Gopstein) writes...
> 
>Sorry if this has been discussed before, but it's not in the FAQ:

It hasn't been.

>How do the recent "dry" beers (Michelob, Bud, Molson, ...) differ
>from non dry beers?  How would one home brew some?  Thanks.

I toured the AB brewery in Merrimac, NH the last weekend of July (donning
asbestos underwear for saying that I've been with the "enemy" :-)) and
asked them what made Bud Dry "dry".  The answer that I got was that the
dry in beer is the same as the dry in wine (as in the white wine was very
dry - I prefer mine a little sweeter).  Anyway, I was thinking about
attempting a "dry" brew myself - something along the lines of:

5 gallons of dry beer:
-----------------------
Ingrediants:
2 cans of unhopped amber malt extract
2 oz hops boil
1 oz hops finish
Ale yeast
Champagne yeast

Procedure:
Ferment in primary with Ale yeast - rack to secondary when Krausen
begins to fall.
Let ferment until finished (aprox. one more week).
Rack to tertiary and add Champagne yeast to eat remaining sugar.
Let stand another week or two.
Bulk prime and bottle.

Does anyone think this will do it?  I haven't tried it yet but probably
will sometime this fall.

Mike

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing,alt.beer
From: jad@nsa.hp.com (John Dilley)
Subject: Re: Bay Area Brewpubs
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 04:26:08 GMT
Organization: Networked Systems Architecture


	Are there any bay area brew pubs serving Pete's Wicked on
draught?  I'd sure love to give it a try.  I like the bottled Pete's
pretty well (my favourite however is closer to true English ale which I
continually attempt to brew myself).  Thank you,

			 --       jad       --
		      John Dilley <jad@nsa.hp.com>

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: mccon@ssdd475a.erim.org (Joe McConnell)
Subject: Re: how about a US brewpub list?
In-reply-to: stewarte@sco.COM's message of Thu, 10 Sep 1992 00:46:53 GMT
Organization: Environmental Research Institute of Michigan, Ann Arbor, Michigan
Date: 10 Sep 92 08:42:38

FYI, the "On Tap" publisher has an update booklet out.  If I remember
(it's in my other office (MY OTHER OFFICE IS A PIT, TOO)) I'll post
the address.
--
Joe McConnell  | Opinions expressed are the   | Don't blame me!  I voted for
mccon@erim.org | author's, not the employer's.| Stephen Maturin!
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: gak@wrs.com (Richard Stueven)
Subject: Re: aluminum brew kettle
Reply-To: gak@wrs.com
Organization: Wind River Systems, Inc.
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 18:58:59 GMT

In article 1308@tecsun1.etl.army.mil, blyler@tecsun1.etl.army.mil (Todd Blyler) writes:
>What might be the effect of using an Aluminum stock pot for mashing and brewing
>as opposed to stainless ? They are often much cheaper....

I've always used an aluminum pot, with no ill effects that I can
detect.  Lest I be accused of self-promotion, a couple of r.c.b/HBD
readers have sampled my beers, and I don't believe they tasted any
aluminum or developed any strange symptoms from them...
(you know who you are :-)

My 6.5 gallon aluminum pot cost about $40 at Service Merchandise.
Having said that, I've heard that you can get fairly inexpensive
stainless steel equipment if you look hard enough.  Guess it depends on
whether you'd rather shop or brew...

have fun
gak
---
I don't know what system you use,  you might try vodka in Evian bottles.   Some
people like  cream in  their morning coffee,  I spike  mine with  a little  JD.
Mickey's Big Mouths are an excellent choice, you can use the empty bottles as a
desktop vase.                               -Hoodlum Empire "Get Drunk At Work"
Richard Stueven        gak@wrs.com         attmail!gakhaus!gak        107/H/3&4

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: binkley@boulder.Colorado.EDU (Jon Binkley)
Subject: Re: "Dry" Beer?
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date:  8 Sep 92 20:31:07 GMT

abirenbo@rigel.cel.scg.hac.com (Aaron Birenboim) writes:

>since enzymes and engineered yeasts are not available to us, I suggest
>fermenting mostly with your usual yeast, then pitch some champagne
>yeast.  The champagne yeast should ferment out most of the stuff
>that your ale yeast leaves behind.

Is champagne yeast really more attenuative than standard brewer's yeast,
or is it just better able to withstand higher alcohol levels?

Jon Binkley
From: slk6p@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Christmas Brew-ideas
Date: 10 Sep 92 00:54:03 MDT
Organization: Utah State University

In article <9209082208.AA03469@gandalf.Berkeley.EDU>, rein@GANDALF.BERKELEY.EDU (steve rein) writes:
> Greetings, More Experienced Ones!
> 
> I've brewed up 2 batches so far and haven't yet left the world of 
> extract brews.  I'm interested in brewing up a batch of Christmas
> Beer (you know, spiced and more highly charged).  However, I'm
> not ready to take the full plunge until well after Christmas.  
*  Sounds like you should plan on brewing next years X-mas brew
after this years X-mas then....
> 
> Do any of you have a recipe that only uses malt extract (malt syrup of
> various types are available cheap near here) for a Christmas Ale?
> How about a version that uses mostly extract?
*  I'm a sold and true ALL GRAIN GURU, but the basics are the basics.
Go for a DARK  brew using whatevere sources you choose.  Then I'd suggest
adding on the order of 1-3 tbsp cinammon, 1-2 tsp nutmeg, a wad of coriander
seed (ground), honey, brown sugar, and anything else which tickles your fancy.
A touch of Spruce (fresh needles) or smoke might impart that authentic aura 
of x-mas trees and fireplaces with stockings hung all in a row....etc.

I made an X-mas beer last year around thanx-giving.  I added cinn/nutmeg to 
the end of the boil, then made a tea of more at bottling time.
WHEW-  I way overdid the nutmeg.  It was described at a tasting party as 
YUCK.  Well, after another half a year I cracked one of those decrepid bottles
(I can't throw it out!  It has alcohol in it!)  and Damned almighty....It is
smooth, full bodied, heavy headed, with a BALANCE of spice flavors.  What
a difference time can make!   

The take home lesson:  To really spice up a brew, and have it achieve its
fullest potential, make it in the summer- age till x-mas, then give it as
a WELCOME present to friends, rather than the dreaded YUCK brew it became
known as.  
**PS another to consider is CLOVE,  but use sparingly.  It's potent.
					J. Wyllie  SLK65P@cc.usu.edu
> 
> many thanks,
> 
> steve rein			There are three kinds of lies:  lies, 	
> rein@stat.berkeley.edu		damned lies, and statistics - Disraeli
Xref: sparky rec.crafts.brewing:5466 alt.beer:5345
From: smennitt@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Stuart Mennitt)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing,alt.beer
Subject: Re: More Campaign Promises
Date: 12 Sep 92 13:26:54 GMT
Reply-To: smennitt@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Stuart Mennitt)
Followup-To: rec.crafts.brewing
Organization: NavSurfWarCen, CarderockDiv (ex-"Taylor Model Basin")

In alt.beer, gak@wrs.com (Richard Stueven) writes:

>going to place him in charge of the War On Light Beer. As Light Beer
>Czar, Gen. Schwarzkopf will have a two-pronged mission, which is to find
>out (1) who is making this stuff, and (2) what happens to their
>breweries when you drop bombs on them.

    He's got my vote.  Has anyone ordered a regular Miller in a bar
and been brought a Lite?  (Spare me the "Of course I'd never order a
Miller" stuff).

--____________________________________________________
]      Stu Mennitt      smennitt@oasys.dt.navy.mil    [
]  NavSurfWarCen, CarderockDiv     Bethesda, Maryland [
]         was: David Taylor Research Center           [
]     was: David Taylor Naval Ship R&D Center         [
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
From: brewer@meltdown.chi.il.us (Mike Wilson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Jap Crap!!! (DEFINED)
Date: 10 Sep 92 16:46:30 GMT
Organization: The Meltdown - A Team Star BBS

I believe the EXACT recipe is 50% Guiness and 50% Harp but any stout/light
ale/lager combination could do, I suppose.  I usually use Guiness with light,
fizzy American beers, it works okay.

Now, this part is mostly to Ernest Crvich: When I brewed my first stout (badly,
mind you), I had it tasted at my homebrew club meeting.  Well, to make a long
story short, let's just say that I expressed about the same interest as you,
I'd like a dark, sweet, heavy brew without that burned taste.  Everyone I
talked to (and if you know my homebrew club, you'd know it's virtually
impossible to get a unanimous decision on anything) said that what I wanted was
a porter.  Essentially, a stout is a strong porter, it uses much more chocolate
and black patent malts than a porter does.  It's these dark malts that impart
that "burned" flavor.  So, go find a porter, or two, and try those out.  They
may be what you're looking for.

Mike Wilson
brewer@meltdown.chi.il.us
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: prh@essence.demon.co.uk (Peter Humphrey)
ReplyTo: prh@essence.demon.co.uk
Subject: Re: First all-grain brew a disaster (comments and questions)
Distribution: world
X-Mailer: cppnews $Revision: 1.15 $
Organization: Distilled Essence of Life, The.
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 20:47:07 +0000

Ten bob says you won't even notice the difference...

Rgds

Peter Humphrey  |  prh@essence.demon.co.uk         | Voice 0932-343158
Woking, UK.     |  unionjack@cix.compulink.co.uk   | Data  0932-353948
From: jmm@scarabz.Corp.Sun.COM (John Morrison)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: ++++   NEW BREW PUBS ALERT ++++
Date: 9 Sep 1992 16:20:53 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems
Distribution: usa
Reply-To: jmm@scarabz.Corp.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: scarabz.corp.sun.com

     I saw an add for the Los Gatos Brew Pub and Restaurant.  I had heard that
there was a law suit revolving around this business that was going to keep it
closed, but I guess they settled it.  I hope to go there later this week for
some "public safety" taste tests.

     I also noticed in the Sunnyvale edition of the Mercury News a picture
showing some men unloading a stainless steel brew tank.  The caption stated
that a brew pub/restaurant was going to open on Murphy Ave in the near future.
That would place this within stumbling/walking distance of my house.  It would
also be VERY CLOSE to the TIED HOUSE in Mt View.


John Morrison



Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: binkley@boulder.Colorado.EDU (Jon Binkley)
Subject: Re: That Yummy Malt Flavor
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: 15 Sep 92 15:10:07 GMT


Assuming you're mashing at the proper temps to leave lots
of unfermentables, the next most important consideration
is yeast attenuation.  Wyeast has two good ones with low
attenuation: their European Ale yeast and the Bohemian Lager
yeast.  I've used both with great success.

One more thing- a pound or so of Munich malt is always good
for malt flavor.

Jon
From: H.Regan@bradford.ac.uk (H REGAN)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Burco Boiler
Date: 9 Sep 92 18:49:38 GMT
Organization: University of Bradford, UK
Originator: 90465160@muser

In article <199209072300.AA24637@kaukau.comp.vuw.ac.nz> andy@comp.vuw.ac.nz (Andy Bond) writes:
>
>I've just been reading an English book on brewing which refers to
>something called a Burco Boiler.  The book is about 18 years old so
>I'm not sure if these things are still made.  They make a 5 gallon
>(possible 10 as well) boiler with an accurate thermostat that is
>perfect for mashing/boiling.  Has anybody (especially in Britain)
>heard of these?  Could someone give me an address so I could enquire
>into their NZ agents?
>
>thanks,
>andy


I take it your that your reading Dave Line's book
(may he rest in peace).

Yes you can use a Burco Boiler to mash and boil.

The Burco Boiler is the kind of contraption you see
in works canteens and the like. There used as a medium
volume source of hot water for tea and coffee.

I believe the Burco has been in production since before
World War II - mine is certainly an early version; aluminium
not stainless steel and no thermostat - just a tree position
switch selecting the various elements.

The problem with this device is cost. A new Burco costs
between 100 to 200 pounds sterling - depending on specification.

Your best bet is to visit as many second hand shops and
factory clearance companies as you can find. My dear brother
bought me mine for a tenner (10 Pounds).

Hope this helps

Helen
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jeq@i88.isc.com (Jonathan E. Quist)
Subject: Re: Misc. Questions
Keywords: priming, carbonation, sterilization
Organization: INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation, Naperville, IL
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 21:21:51 GMT

In article <jdecarlo.238.716066716@mitre.org> jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo) writes:
>>1)  How much care should I give in sterilizing my bottles while bottling?
>>I've tried the standard bleach solution but its kind of a pain finding a
>>place to soak 50+ bottles at one time.
>
>As I see it, there are two basic ways to make that job easier:
>
>1. Assuming they are all clean, just put them in the dishwasher and run a 
>rinse and heated dry cycle.  The hot water and steam resulting from the 
>heated dry seems to do a good job of sanitizing all *my* bottles.

The commercial dishwashers at my church have siphon hoses that hook into
gallon bottles of bleach for sanitizing.  Assuming the insides of your
dishwasher are up to it, you could probably add a little liquid bleach
and get the same effect.  (Maybe I'll drop Hobart a note and ask...)
-- 
Jonathan E. Quist                              INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation
jeq@i88.isc.com  '71 CL450-K4 "Gleep", DoD #094        Naperville, IL
        There are many things a person should experience in a lifetime.
       Among them are an infant's first cry, and an infant's first laugh.
From: esharp@sage.cc.purdue.edu (Edwin Sharp)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Jap Crap!!! (DEFINED)
Date: 9 Sep 92 03:30:15 GMT
Organization: Purdue University Computing Center

I don't know if this name has gotten out of the Purdue/Indianapolis area, but   here that drink is called a Boilermaker.  Unfortunatly (sp?), most here don't use Guinness (I can't live long without it!).
E/S	
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing