HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: naru@eng.umd.edu (Naruhisa Takashima)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Loose Headset?
Date: 15 Sep 92 15:36:26 GMT
Organization: College of Engineering, University of Maryland, College Park
Originator: naru@apache.eng.umd.edu


Riding this morning I noticed that when I apply light steady brake in front,
 the fork snaps back and forth slightly and makes a klunk klunk sound.
Does this mean my headset is loose, or is this a natural thing? 
The bike is Cannondale R400.

I've tried the two methods for finding loose headset ( applying the front
brake and moving the bike back and forth, and raising the front wheel and
dropping it listening for loose sounds.) and it seems to be OK
; although, when I rock it back and 
forth the fork seems to flex a little.

Thanks in advance,
Naru Takashima
From: dahls@fhydra.dnet.unit.no (Joern Yngve Dahl-Stamnes)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Hyperglide Chains
Date: 7 Sep 92 14:15:40 GMT
Reply-To: dahls@fhydra.dnet.unit.no (Joern Yngve Dahl-Stamnes)
Distribution: rec
Organization: University of Trondheim, NORWAY

Thus spoke the keyboard of praetzel@marconi.uwaterloo.ca (Eric Praetzel):
>In article <090192.715356584@otto> newman@otto.ycc.yale.edu (Andrew Newman) writes:
>>Greetings,
>>  Re HG70 chain
>>When I put the chain back on, as someone else on the net mentioned,
>>The outer plate through which I pushed the 'special' link bowed outward
>>a bit.  Yes, I pushed the original pin back through against Shimano's
>  Yes it will break.  The pin will pull out on one side and them rip free
>entirely.  

I have done the same with my HG-90 chain as Adrew Newman have - pushed
the original pin back. And I have done this twice on the same chain. No
problem what so ever, no chain brake. The only problem is that both side
of the link are so thight that I have to bend the link to make it
flex smooth.

+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+--+-+-+-+-+-+-+
* I went back to my mother,           * Joern Yngve Dahl-Stamnes           *
* I said, "I'm crazy ma, help me!"    * University of Trondheim            *
* She said, "I know how it feels son, * The Norwegian Institute of Tech.   *
* 'cause it runs in the family."      * Division of Physical Electronics   *
*       - The Who, Quadrophenia       * e-mail: dahls@fhydra.dnet.unit.no  *
+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+--+-+-+-+-+-+-+
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: josh@Happy-Man.com (Joshua_Putnam)
Subject: Re: hyperglide cassette cogs positions in the cluster
Reply-To: Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com
Organization: Happy Man Corp., Vashon Island, WA 98070-7399
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 20:20:28 GMT

In <98aO02kg21C=01@JUTS.ccc.amdahl.com> msw10@nepenthe.as (Michael S. Wong) writes:



>Find one of your steepest hills, road or off-road, on the road the kind where you have 
>to stand up, off road the kind where you have to put your chest on the handle bars to 
>prevent a wheelie. Put your bike in the 3rd or 4th (largest) cog, and start pedaling 
>up (get a rolling start if necessary). Now try to downshift your (non-hyperglide or 
>powerflo) cogs. Be careful! If you're lucky, the chain will rattle, but no shift will 
>occur until you unload the drivetrain. If you're unlucky, the chain will jump free 
>and you'll disembowel yourself on the stem. Now try it with Hyperglide or PowerFlo 
>cogs. The shift will occur, maybe with a delay and a crunch, with nary an 
>interruption in pedaling rhythm (except now you're in an easier gear). 

My experience with non-powerflow accushift on the road
sounds like your description of Hyperglide -- a slight
delay, then an accurate shift, without any interruption of
pedal cadence.  Off the road I spin slower cadences when
I'm standing up than when I'm standing on the road, and
upshifts are more difficult with non-powerflow/non-accushift 
cogs.  Still, it's too small a difference to make me
replace my drivetrain, or even my freewheel.
-- 
 Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com    Happy Man Corp.  206/463-9399 x102
 4410 SW Pt. Robinson Rd., Vashon Island, WA  98070-7399  fax x108
 We publish SOLID VALUE for the intelligent investor.  NextMail OK
Info free; sample $20: Send POSTAL addr: Solid-Value@happy-man.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech,rec.bicycles.marketplace
From: pardo@cs.washington.edu (David Keppel)
Subject: Re: Nightsun
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.marketplace
Organization: Computer Science & Engineering, U. of Washington, Seattle
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 92 20:29:13 GMT

> piltch@ariel.lerc.nasa.gov (Nancy Piltch) writes:
>[I've had to do wiring on my Night Sun.]

I've had the same experience, with about a year of riding, including
nighttime offroad riding.

choy@skorpio.usask.ca (I am a terminator.) writes:
>What is a good light without the external wiring (don't read this the
>wrong way)?

VeloLux.  801 Northport Dr. Unit #1, West Sacramento, CA  95691,
800-552-1523.

Followups to `rec.bicycles.marketplace'.

		;-D oN  ( Nightsoon )  Pardo
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: paynter@bnr.ca (Stuart Paynter)
Subject: Re: New Snell Standard?
Reply-To: paynter@bnr.ca (Stuart Paynter)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 92 12:30:07 GMT

Regarding Snell standards, I have seen articles concerning the 
differences between Snell and DOT standards for motorcycle helmets.
It seems that the two tests are not always a good indication
of a safe product in that the Snell standard has been developed 
for "racing" conditions while the DOT standards have been developed
for "road" conditions.  Therefore, by passing one test, doesn't
ensure that it passes the other and vice versa.  In many cases,
a helmet that is certified to have passed both tests actually would
fail both! <source: Cycle World magazine>

Can anyone comment on this applicabiity to bicycle helmets?  Are
there DOT (American or Canadian) or other underwriters approvals
on helemts and if there are, are the tests/standards compatible?

Cheers...Stuart 
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: josh@Happy-Man.com (Joshua_Putnam)
Subject: Re: hyperglide cassette cogs positions in the cluster
Reply-To: Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com
Organization: Happy Man Corp., Vashon Island, WA 98070-7399
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 21:08:13 GMT

In <9fwF02fv21Es01@JUTS.ccc.amdahl.com> msw10@nepenthe.as (Michael S. Wong) writes:

>I don't know if this was mentioned in the original post, but the cogs *aren't*
>available indiviually. The only way to mix them is to buy several cassettes and
>mix and match the cogs you want or find someone else who has several cassettes who
>is willing to break a set. 

Last year's Small Parts catalog from The Third Hand has
individual Hyperglide cogs.  I imagine this year's does,
too, but it's at home and I'm not.  The catalog also has a
chart of which series and tooth sizes are interchangeable
for those wanting to make custom setups.

According to the catalog, all the individual cogs work
with HG90, HG70, and HG50 setups, for what it's worth.
There certainly are a lot of them.  For 13 tooth cogs, you
can get Series G, H, I, J, or K.  For 14 tooth, Series E,
F, I, or J.  12 tooth cogs only come in Series E, while 34
tooth cogs are only Series K.

1991 Third Hand prices were $4.15 for most cogs, $5.30 for
some of the smaller ones.
-- 
 Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com    Happy Man Corp.  206/463-9399 x102
 4410 SW Pt. Robinson Rd., Vashon Island, WA  98070-7399  fax x108
 We publish SOLID VALUE for the intelligent investor.  NextMail OK
Info free; sample $20: Send POSTAL addr: Solid-Value@happy-man.com
From: msw10@nepenthe.as (Michael S. Wong)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: hyperglide cassette cogs positions in the cluster
Date: 11 Sep 92 17:52:46 GMT
Reply-To: msw10@nepenthe.as
Organization: Sun Microsystems


In article 6H2@watserv1.uwaterloo.ca, praetzel@marconi.uwaterloo.ca (Eric Praetzel) writes:
>In article <1992Sep10.231502.17074@news.csd.sgi.com> shiba@riffnique.csd.sgi.com (Richard Shiba) writes:
>>	Evidently there's something like 6 or 8 different types
>>	of hyperglide cogs, and they're all matched as a set.
>  Yes.  And they are all stamped with a number identifiying them.  The
>difference is in the location of the release gate that carries the chain up.
>The only problem would be with multiple gear shifts.  The "matched" sets of
>cogs are setup so that the chain can go right up several cogs at a time
>(not supported by the shifters in some case ie Deore LX can only shift up
>1 or 2 gears at a time compared to 5+ for the XT).  However, if the steps
>between gears is only 1 tooth the hyperglide does not offer any advantage.
>If the road grouppos shift to a microdrive type system you will see hyperglide
>dissipear and my bet is that is what will happen.
>  - Eric 


Find one of your steepest hills, road or off-road, on the road the kind where you have 
to stand up, off road the kind where you have to put your chest on the handle bars to 
prevent a wheelie. Put your bike in the 3rd or 4th (largest) cog, and start pedaling 
up (get a rolling start if necessary). Now try to downshift your (non-hyperglide or 
powerflo) cogs. Be careful! If you're lucky, the chain will rattle, but no shift will 
occur until you unload the drivetrain. If you're unlucky, the chain will jump free 
and you'll disembowel yourself on the stem. Now try it with Hyperglide or PowerFlo 
cogs. The shift will occur, maybe with a delay and a crunch, with nary an 
interruption in pedaling rhythm (except now you're in an easier gear). 

Even if it's a straight block 12-19 8 speed cassette or freewheel, no non-hyperglide 
or powerflo cog set will make this shift, not Regina, Uniglide, Accushift, 
Sachs-Malliard (Campy cassette cogs are a head and navel bone above anything else 
except 'glide and 'flo, which it (campy) is a head and collar bone worse). This is why
even with a relatively close ration cluster, Suntour's MicroDrive employs a 
PowerFlo cogset.

Michael Wong
msw10@amdahl.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: djconnel@leland.Stanford.EDU (Daniel Connelly)
Subject: Re: Chain Cleaners
Keywords: Chain cleaners, Park vs Vetta vs ?, cleaning materials
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 92 13:52:45 GMT

In article <20285@drutx.ATT.COM> r.g.olsen@att.com writes:

>I've used both the Vetta and Park chain cleaners on my MTB.
>Both do an adequate job getting off surface gunk,
>but do little to get the embedded grit that is a chain's real enemy.
>
>Performance degreaser, Citrasolve, or Simple Green should also
>work to take off gunk; then follow with your favorite lube.
>
>My favorite way to clean an MTB is to take the bike
>to a car wash, and use a high-pressure hose on the chain
>and everywhere else, being careful not to point the
>hose directly at the hubs or bottom bracket.
>
>Some say the only way to really clean a chain is to take it
>off the bike and soak it; I'm too lazy to do this
>and wouldn't recommend it if you have a Hyperglide chain.
>
>I usually clean my MTB chain on an "as-needed" basis;
>depends on how dirty the bike is when I get back from the ride.


I've usually cleaned my chain by spraying it with dilute Simple Green
while running a tooth brush across first the top and then the bottom 
( applying pressure to the chain with the brush  ) while backpedalling,
then wiping it down with a rag.  I repeat a few times, then put some
Tri-Flow in all the contact points ( links, pulleys, derailleur hinges,
etc ) and pedal it awhile and move the shifters around.  Then I lightly
wipe off the excess oil with a rag.

This seems to work fine; I have felt no need to buy a chain cleaner.
For a more complete clean, I periodically give the chain a soak in
dilute simple green, wipe down with rag, spray with some WD-40, wipe
with rag, and lubricate with Tri-Flow as above.

Have people observed that hang-on cleaners do a significantly better
job than a toothbrush?

Dan
-- 
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tlt38517@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Terry Thiel)
Subject: New Mavic (Dia-Compe) Brakes?
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1992 00:36:18 GMT

Has anyone seen or used the new Mavic (made by Dia-Compe) road brakes?
What are your opinions?
-Terry
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: dahls@fhydra.dnet.unit.no (Joern Yngve Dahl-Stamnes)
Subject: Re: Cateye Vectra -- setting clock
Reply-To: dahls@fhydra.dnet.unit.no (Joern Yngve Dahl-Stamnes)
Organization: University of Trondheim, NORWAY
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 92 12:14:55 EDT

Thus spoke the keyboard of larson@minerva.sws.uiuc.edu (Bob Larson):
>I just resumed riding after a couple of years off.  I can't remember
>how to set the clock on my Cateye Vectra, or to reset the other functions.
                            ^^^^^^^^^^^^^

I got a Cateye Vectra, but I have not found the clock function on it yet!
Are you shure it got one? Or are you talking about the Cateye Mity (I and
II)?

+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+--+-+-+-+-+-+-+
* I went back to my mother,           * Joern Yngve Dahl-Stamnes           *
* I said, "I'm crazy ma, help me!"    * University of Trondheim            *
* She said, "I know how it feels son, * The Norwegian Institute of Tech.   *
* 'cause it runs in the family."      * Division of Physical Electronics   *
*       - The Who, Quadrophenia       * e-mail: dahls@fhydra.dnet.unit.no  *
+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+--+-+-+-+-+-+-+
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: eak@swlrgz (EFTHYMIOS KIAFOULIS)
Subject: AERO BARS
Summary: ARO BARS
Keywords: AERO
Organization: Raytheon Company, Tewksbury, MA
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 13:19:53 GMT

  I am trying to decide which set of Aero Bars to purchase and
  have limited it to the new 92 Profile Aero II and Scott Lemond
  bars.  If anyone owns or has used either of these bars, I
  would really appreciate you comments !!!  Thank You !!!!


                               Efthymi
                               - The Greek God of Cycling
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: rkd@pt.com (Ray Downes)
Subject: Re: Hubs built for straight spokes
Keywords: break flange hub spoke wheel
Organization: Performance Technologies, Incorporated
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 1992 15:35:26 GMT

In article <1992Sep1.045541.2408@beaver.cs.washington.edu>(David Keppel)writes:
> - BMW used a straight-spoke design in the 60's.  Although most new
>   BMW's use cast wheels, it is my impression that recent spoked BMW
>   wheels have all used spokes with elbows.

I assume you're referencing BMW motorcycles here - I'd say all BMW
spoked wheel from '60-on (and likely way before) used/use straight
spokes. My '74 R90S used Weinmann (sp?) rims as well, with rather funky
eyelet "mounds".

The current design is somewhat unique as the straight spokes cross
diagonally, routed through holes in the rim flats, across to the
opposite side of the hub. The nipple is recessed in the hub, adjustable
via an allen wrench. This design covers needs/problems of tubeless
tires, drum brake and engine torque, and clearance for the drive shaft
rear pivot (which "intrudes" into the spoke area of the wheel), not very
applicable to bicycles.
-- 
Ray Downes, Performance Technologies Incorporated		rkd@pt.com
315 Science Parkway, Rochester, New York 14620		  
Voice - (716) 256-0200, FAX (716) 256-0791
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: hrad@ellis.uchicago.edu (Vince)
Subject: Re: Tire cuts: When is too bad?
Reply-To: hrad@midway.uchicago.edu
Organization: University of Chicago Computing Organizations
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1992 14:50:27 GMT

In article <1992Sep7.044450.27631@shearson.com> mjohnsto@jenny.shearson.com (Mike Johnston) writes:
>
>With about 100 miles on a pair of brand new Michelin Super Comp HD's
>I got a nasty flat the other day that left a battle scar on my rear
>tire. The cut is about 1/3" long and runs across the business side of
>the tire perpendicular to the direction of travel. It went all the way
>through, cleanly.
>
>I keep my tires at 110psi. Should I worry about a blowout with this tire?
>Am I being a worry wart? 
>
>MJ
>--
>Michael R. Johnston/System Administrator                mjohnsto@shearson.com  
>  =-=-=  The official .signature of the 1992 Barcelona Olympics. =-=-=
>

I wouldn't worry too much, it doesn't sound that big,
especially if the rest of the tire is in good shape.  The
only thing you may need to worry about is the tube sticking
out through the hole.  When I got some small cuts in my
tires friend gave me some old material from a
rubber raft that I cut into small squares to cover the
inside of the tire to prevent the tube from poking out.
This worked pretty well, and I think the same could be done
with some old tire's casing or similar material.  The other
thing you may want to think about is switching this tire to
the front wheel where there will be less weight on it.

Good luck.
Vince
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: you@taligent.com (Lawrence You)
Subject: Re: hyperglide cassette cogs positions in the cluster
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech
Organization: Taligent, Inc.
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 18:50:07 GMT

In article <72153@apple.Apple.COM>, mikami@Apple.COM (Eiichiro Mikami)
wrote:
> Are the cogs made to be in a certain positions?

In a way, yes.  For a cog with a specific number of teeth, Shimano makes
several Hyperglide cogs.  The different cogs are marked with several
letters, e.g. H K 15T.  So it's not so much which position (left to right)
as which angle/phase of the Hyperglide ramps.  I think the letters indicate
compatibility between adjacent cogs and I've seen a compatibility chart in
print (maybe at a bike shop).

To keep a cassette functioning as it is intended, the cogs should be
replaced so that they are still compatible.  A local shop, Shaw's, carries
lots of parts but won't stock individual Hyperglide cogs because there are
too many of them.  Good luck finding individual cogs.

-Lawrence

you@taligent.com
From: rschetge%arrl.org (Bob Schetgen)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Comments on Bridgestone?
Keywords: help touring buy
Date: 15 Sep 92 08:35:16 EDT
Organization: American Radio Relay League

     While looking for bargains in the model-year 
changeover, a Bridgestone RB-T at a local shop caught my 
eye. It feels nice and light (though I've not ridden it 
yet--I'll do that this afternoon), and I like the philosophy 
expressed in the Bridgestone catalog.

1) I'm interested in others' experience with Bridgestone. 
Are they as straightforward and honest as their catalog 
implies? Any Bridgestone owners out there?

2) Considering the caveat that "it's better to buy a bike at 
a quality-shop than a discount house (for service)" what's a 
reasonable year-end price for the bike?

     A lot of my riding is on very hilly roads (10-20 miles, 
3-4 times a week). I don't do any dirt riding, but I don't 
want the bike to bog down when I occassionally venture into 
a *little* sand. I weigh about 220 lbs. I like the hand 
positions offered by drop bars. All of these things have led 
me to look for a bike with drop bars, triple crank and 
cantilever brakes or better--a touring bike.

     The shop also has a '91 Cannondale (630 I think) 
touring bike marked down to $640. How good is that? I'm not 
really excited about aluminum for bike frames, but maybe 
aluminum with a guarantee is better than steel without one?

     I'm also considered a Trek 1100. Any comments Trek v 
Cannondale v Bridgestone? I'm open to other bikes that might 
suit my style; any suggestions?.
From: rgo@druhi.att.com (Ron Olsen)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Chain Cleaners
Keywords: Chain cleaners, Park vs Vetta vs ?, cleaning materials
Date: 11 Sep 92 22:13:14 GMT
Reply-To: r.g.olsen@att.com
Organization: AT&T Bell Labs, Denver CO

I've used both the Vetta and Park chain cleaners on my MTB.
Both do an adequate job getting off surface gunk,
but do little to get the embedded grit that is a chain's real enemy.
The Vetta seems more durable; I broke a brush
on the Park after a few uses.  The Park and Vetta cleaner/silicon
fluids work ok, but don't leave a lasting lube.

Performance degreaser, Citrasolve, or Simple Green should also
work to take off gunk; then follow with your favorite lube.

My favorite way to clean an MTB is to take the bike
to a car wash, and use a high-pressure hose on the chain
and everywhere else, being careful not to point the
hose directly at the hubs or bottom bracket.

Some say the only way to really clean a chain is to take it
off the bike and soak it; I'm too lazy to do this
and wouldn't recommend it if you have a Hyperglide chain.

I usually clean my MTB chain on an "as-needed" basis;
depends on how dirty the bike is when I get back from the ride.

	Ron Olsen
	Boulder, Colorado
	r.g.olsen@att.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tep2j@amsun.apma.Virginia.EDU (Todd E. Peterson)
Subject: stem and bar compatibility
Reply-To: tep2j@amsun.apma.Virginia.EDU (Todd E. Peterson)
Organization: University of Virginia
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 14:18:45 GMT

How bad is it if I try to use a Cinelli bar (26.4mm diam)
with a stem intended for 26.0mm diam bars (such as TTT,ITM)?
Will it work?

Thanks  - tep

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: pardo@cs.washington.edu (David Keppel)
Subject: Re: Nightsun
Organization: Computer Science & Engineering, U. of Washington, Seattle
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 92 20:32:42 GMT

dahls@fhydra.dnet.unit.no (Joern Yngve Dahl-Stamnes) writes:
>[Battery capacities for lights.]

Beware that battery capcities are reduced by low temperatures.  At
freezing, a lead-acid gel cell can have half (or maybe even less) than
the warm capacity.  Capcity vs. temperature curves are available for
all batteries, check them out and consider your average temperatures
when you plan out your battery capacity!

	;-D oN  ( Time for capaci tea )  Pardo
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tucker@Xenon.Stanford.EDU (Andy Tucker)
Subject: Re: helmet replacement--who does it?
Organization: Computer Science Department, Stanford University.
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1992 01:48:26 GMT

In article <Bu2Gx9.Inr@cup.hp.com> markd@cup.hp.com (Mark_Donohoe) writes:
>Giro will do this for $15.  They claim this covers processing and handeling
>etc...

It's free for Giro Prolights.  I've had 3 replaced for just the cost of
mailing them there.

--
Andy Tucker
tucker@cs.stanford.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang)
Subject: Re: bent frame question
Organization: Brandeis University
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 16:42:52 GMT


I bought my Masi with a bent frame (top and down tubes) and have ridden
it for the past oh, 17 years without a problem.

The frame was bent when the previous owner, upon seeing that the wire
handle on the nut side of the front quick release was pointing out
instead of in, reached way down and fliped it down.  He also poked his
thumb into the spokes and since they were moving, the thumb was
quickly brought up tight against the fork which stopped the front
wheel quicker than even a hydraulic brake.  The previous owner went
over the bars.

-andy