HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: brothers@mdd.comm.mot.com (Joseph Brothers)
Subject: Re: 1979 VW Rabbit diesel Problem
Keywords:  VW, Rabbit, Diesel
Organization: Motorola, Mobile Data Division - Seattle, WA
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 02:23:26 GMT

In article <1993Jan7.175540.19595@sequent.com> beck@sequent.com ("W. Scott Beck") writes:
>[...]
>1979 Rabbit Diesel [...]
>4 degrees (F) [...] would not start. It has
>a new fuel filter, new belt, alt/gen is about a year old, battery
>was recharged three weeks ago. would crank but not turn over,
>tried jump starting it, same thing. Any ideas what it could
>be??
>I'm ready to get my gun out and shoot it, it is a problem car since
>I bought it two monts ago (third owner) 181k miles, 
>

Possible causes:

    1) glow plugs or glow plug circuit not 100%

    2) injector pump timing not perfect

    3) fuel may be gelled/water in fuel filter frozen & blocking

    4) valves not perfectly sealed due to wear or misadjusted

    5) low compression due to engine wear

If you're mech. inclined (> 75o), look up the diagnostic procedures
in the Bentley manual, using this list as a guide to the Index.

If not, dump 2 - 3 ounces of Duralt Diesel Fuel Conditioner 
in your fuel tank, wait til the warmest part of your day, connect the
jumper cables, shoot about 3 second's worth of Ether-based aerosol
starter fluid up the intake manifold (ahem, "intake air distributor"),
and punch the starter.  Drive right down to your nearest expert VW
Diesel mechanic and tell your tale of woe.

I love diesel Rabbits.  Keep 'em in proper tune (easy & cheap) and
keep 'em full of oil (5 quarts, remember) and they'll go > 200K mi.

Lotsa people will try to sell 'em to you after they've run 'em 400
miles with one quart of oil in the pan, one working glow plug, and the
injector pump so far out of whack you can spot the Rabbit by its
smoke plume from 3 miles off.  That's not a car, that's a rebuild.

Lotsa luck,

-J
--
-- 
			Joseph L. Brothers			
brothers@mdd.comm.mot.com		uunet!mdisea!brothers	         
	"I am speaking solely for my self, not my employer."
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: Re: [W] Hesitating GTI
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 12:28:33 GMT

In article <1993Jan10.233134.10379@inmet.camb.inmet.com>, mep@reatta.camb.inmet.com (Mark Polhamus) writes:
>I'm having a problem with my '87 GTI (8-valve), and the symptoms are so
>distinctive I bet someone will know what the problem is... (even if the
>mechanics can't seem to nail it down)
>
>When the engine is cold (40F or lower), it hesitates in acceleration at
>about 2800 - 3200 rpm.  Badly hesitates - loses all power & throws me
>forward against my seat belt!  I can hold the throttle open, but it will
>not pick up power until I depress the clutch, or the rpms fall below
>about 1800.  If I keep the rpms low I can drive fairly normally, or I can
>keep the rpms high and race around chirping the tires!
>
The problem may be with the potentiometer on your fuel distributor. 
The potentiometer (located on the fender side of the fuel distributor,
with a 3 wire harness on it) measures the opening of the throttle plate
in the distributor, and when the weather is cold, enriches the fuel
mixture.

Here's one way to test the potentiometer, and temporarily stop
the problem. If you have A/C, run the car on defrost as soon
as you start up. The A/C system has a similar enriching system
to that of the potentiometer/cold acceleration system. It will
prevent the "jerking" motion that you are experiencing now.

If you don't have A/C, another way of trying to determine if
its the potentiometer is to take a wire tie, and tie the
full throttle switch closed (the white switch on top of
the throttle body). It adds extra fuel, at full throttle,
to the system, and should do the same when you are driving it
closed.

The potentiometer is part number 035 133 472 B. Read the
Bentley manual on how to replace it.

Ric





>The dealer and another shop have looked at it.  The shop says the fuel
>injection distributor (or whatever the real name is) needs to be
>replaced for $400.  He says it is so messed up from dirt in the gas that
>it cannot be cleaned - I should have replaced my fuel filter more
>often.
>
>Does that sound like an accurate diagnosis?  Any ideas are welcome.
>
>
>-- Mark Polhamus
>-- mep@inmet.inmet.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: wolfson@regatta.sps.mot.com (Stephen Wolfson)
Subject: FAQ? How to buy a Used VW
Organization: SPS
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 18:08:01 GMT

If there is an FAQ I'd appreciate it.  If not I'm looking for explanations
on how to buy an older VW bug, squareback, or bus.  What should I look
for, and are there any models that are easier to restore or have
better long term value than others.

	Thanks,
	Steve
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: srfergu@rufus.erenj.com (Scott Ferguson)
Subject: Re: What's up with that...
Organization: Exxon Research & Engineering Co.
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 14:23:49 GMT

In article <1id86pINNc4h@agate.berkeley.edu>, beorn@elk.Berkeley.EDU (Beorn Johnson) writes:
|> My '92 Jetta has ...
|> 
|> -  The light in my trunk... 
|>  . . . The trunk light only works while 
|> -  the headlights are on.
|> 
|> Weird.  Works normal for me.

Is the light in the trunk an option on the '92 Jetta or something? Mine 
doesn't seem to work at all, and I can't even figure out where the light
is supposed to be!!! Can someone tell me where to look?

Perhaps it's because I only ever seem to go looking for the light when
it's dark out ;-)

-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Scott Ferguson                        Exxon Research & Engineering Co.
Project Engineer                      New Jersey
----------------------------------------------------------------------
"Always bark at a dog."
From: garrett@Ingres.COM (WHEN ALL ELSE FAILS, READ THE INSTRUCTIONS)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: [A] '71 Super Bug shimmies.
Summary: More info
Keywords: steering box, tie rod ends, wheel bearings
Date: 4 Jan 93 22:25:52 GMT
Organization: ASK Computer Systems, Ingres Product Division
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.4-b1

In article <1993Jan02.002058.13351@microsoft.com>, laurahal@microsoft.com (Laura Halliday)                     writes...
> 
>Tim from New Mexico asks about his shimmying Super Beetle...
> 
>They all shimmy to varying degrees. Yours sounds a bit excessive -

>Are you sure your balljoints are OK? How about your strut towers - rust
>is out of the question, as well as dangerous. How about the bottom,

Pardon my ignorance, but where are the strut towers? I own a '71 Super 
Beetle.

>....laura
From: db6j+@andrew.cmu.edu (Douglas S. Brashear)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: '74 Super...Valves
Date: 5 Jan 93 08:12:20 GMT
Article-I.D.: andrew.MfGQy4O00iV382KYIS
Organization: Junior, English, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA

First off I'd like to thank everyone who has given me advice so far
about my '74 SuperBeetle's emission problems  :-)
-----
Okay...its me again with my wonderful '74 SuperBeetle also wondering to
myself "Whats up with that"...
anyways...
I have replaced the oil, plugs, air filter, fuel filter, and I'm gonna
do the points too; how many people out there think I should adjust the
valves too?

STIPULATION: before you give me a 'yes, do the valves' answer, you have
to have done it before yourself...successfully.  I have the "Idiot Book"
and Mr. Muir makes it sound so easy...it also sounds like a major
bonding event with your car.  

I'm probably gonna take it for the emissions test again after I get the
points in and the carb adjusted...if it doesn't pass I'm probably going
to have a go at the valves...
Anybody have any helpful hints or things to look for?
-Thanks in Advance...
DOUG
From: tedcrum@garnet.berkeley.edu (Ted Crum)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: VW Bug Front Tires should be 18 lb?
Date: 8 Jan 1993 02:08:19 GMT
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
NNTP-Posting-Host: garnet.berkeley.edu

There is nothing usual about 32 psi. The low front tire pressure is to
induce some understeer to balance the inherent oversteer of the chassis.
The car will feel better with more front pressure, but not 32 psi,
but there is more chance of getting in trouble if you have to make
an emergency lane change, etc.

-Ted Crum
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: [A] Today's '56 report....
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 19:02:13 GMT

Last night UPS delivered the "fuel tank restoration" stuff from 
Eastwood (a can of acid etch and a can of tank sealer goop). So
if I planned things right while the etch was doing its thing,
I would bleed the brakes, and while the goop was drying I would
give the car a quick coat of wax.

I got a friend over to help with the brakes and the waxing so off
we went. The etch went into the tank, and we put the tank near 
a kerosene heater (it needed heat to work...and so did we). A
quick check revealed that the silicone cement had sealed the
grommet and the pipe on the master cylinder...so it was bleeding
time. All four bleeders came free.....and eventually all of
the brake fluid came out clear and we had pedal!

Next it was time to slosh the etch around again. After that I dug
up some "black" color wax and gave the car a quick coat. While
it was drying, I decided to look under the floor mats, etc to
see what was there hanging around. I found a twin fuse box for
the headlights, a VW hood ornament, a new Wolfsburg crest, and
the proper gromet for the wheel cylinder! Well now I have a
spare gromet!

It was once again time to work on the tank....so out came the
etch (it came in handy getting rid of some of the rust on the
outside bottom of the tank)...and in went the goop. Its this
thick white stuff which coats the tank and then drys leaving
a new, clean surface inside the tank.

The process takes about an hour to coat the tank, so while
we were waiting, the wax was buffed off. The bug will eventually
need a new paint job, but for now this is good enough....its nice
and shiny again!

Out of curiosity, I had my friend hold down the brake pedal, and
I tested the wheels to see if the wheel cylinders worked...there is
a difference between having no air in the brake lines and no
functioning wheel cylinders. The front wheels locked (the car is
up on jack stands)...the right rear locked...but the left rear
turns...looks like its time to replace the wheel cylinders in
the back. The axle nut did not want to budge with the breaker
bar, and my torch is elsewhere right now, so I don't know
the exact problem with the rear wheel cylinder. Hopefully,
it may just need a little TLC to get it functioning again..
otherwise its wheel cylinder time.

I think its time to take a day off from the bug, hopefully
the UPS and VW fairies will bring my new fuel tap...heater
cable and a few other goodies in the next day or so. If they
do, I can get the gas tank back in and maybe take a spin
in the driveway!

Ric
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: seymour@bnr.ca (Jeffrey Seymour)
Subject: performance chips for passat???
Reply-To: seymour@bnr.ca (Jeffrey Seymour)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 93 13:41:51 GMT

Can anyone direct me to where I might be able to find a performance chip for a 91 passat?  Any other performance (cheap) recommendations are welcome.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: bew@brahms.udel.edu (Ben Williams)
Subject: VW bug headliner
Organization: University of Delaware
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 07:54:05 GMT

A while ago in this newsgroup someone said they were replacing their vinyl
headliner with something else, and to let him know if anyone wanted it.
Well, my headliner is in terrible shape (part of it is ripped away) and I
have thought of replacing it but it seemed like such a task when I looked
at it (it looks like you have to take out the windshield and the side
windows in the back and possibly the back window as well) that I never
attempted it.  But now I am thinking that maybe I will give it a try,
especially if I can have a free used headliner :-).

Ben.

-- 
Ben Williams
bew@brahms.udel.edu

               What we got here is a failure to communicate...
From: slhmz@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Radical Bug Design
Date: 8 Jan 93 03:51:58 GMT
Organization: Utah State University

Hi!

I am looking for anybody out there who has done some radical redesigning
to their beetles.  Specifically, front-end and rear-end lowering, chopping
the top and lowering it, changing the doors to suicide style, etc...

If anybody out there has done any of the above, e-mail me.  I wish to
talk to you about it.  Thanks!

--
Travis Carter
From: tvtjet@eua.ericsson.se (Jorgen Eriksson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: decelerating by downshifting
Date: 11 Jan 93 15:45:52 GMT
Organization: Ellemtel Telecom Systems Labs, Stockholm, Sweden

eric@quantum.qnx.com (Eric Johnson) writes:

><other articles deleted for brevity>

>I always downshift in sequence from whatever gear I'm in through all
>the gears down to 1st gear. Why?  Because I'm a relative beginner
>driver (only 12 years experience) and I want my heel and toeing to
                                                 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
	Now, this is intersting. Toe-heel, are we advanced or what ?
	I thougt this was mostly used when competing (race tracks etc).
	Perhaps you don't mean the toe on the brake and heel keeping
	preassure on the gas ? I.e. it's very practical to keep up the
	turbo preassure (if any) during braking and gear changes.

>be dead smooth. It takes a lot of practice to be smooth on the heel
>whilst doing the double-clutch dance and letting the enginer braking
>come in and out of play. My own experience is that it has taken me a
>few years just to get moderately proficient at it, and when
>I stop driving a any significant period I get noticeably rusty at it.
>Using engine braking and the brakes at the same time is a daily
>exercise to keep my driving skills at a reasonable level. (I presume
>I don't need to go into the manifold benefits of heel and toeing.)
                                                  ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
	Please do.

>If driving fast isn't ones kettle of fish, I would still argue that
>routinely downshifting while braking could some day save your
>life if for some reason you have a partial brake failure or happen
                                            ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
	You still have the parking break, much more effecient
	than the engine dito. In a panic situation it's not
	very wise to start fiddeling around with the gears...
	(In most cases the best way to avoid a dister is 
	to use the steering wheel...)

>to get into a situation where you have to make a few very hard stops
>in a short period of time. The fraction of a second it takes to
>go off the brake, shift, and go back on the brake could kill you.
>Is anyone so confident in their ability that they don't think they
>need the practice? Of course, maybe I'm just a lot slower and less

	Of course, everyone needs practice. But it's better
	spending time on breaking and steering techniques...

>coordinated than average and need the practice, in which case,
>please disregard this line of reasoning.

	To stop real quick, it's an advantage to disengage the engine.
	Then the breaks only have to stop the viechle, and not the
	engine too.

>I do agree however that it is harder on the engine (and transmission -
>you can end up doing twice as many shifts as you would if you just
>used the brakes).

	And it'll cost you some more gas too (if you don't have
	a car with a fuel cut-off system during deacceleration)...

>-- 
>Eric Johnson (eric@quantum.qnx.com or try eric@quantum.on.ca)
>Technical Development, Quantum Software Systems Ltd (QNX OS)

	Best regards,
		Jorgen (Jorgen.Eriksson@eua.ericsson.se)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: cczcole@mips.nott.ac.uk (Marlon Cole)
Subject: Re: VW Bug Front Tires should be 18 lb?
Reply-To: cczcole@mips.nott.ac.uk (Marlon Cole)
Organization: Nottingham University
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 93 10:20:53 GMT

In article 
>BARANSKI@veamf1.nusc.navy.mil (Jim Baranski) writes:
 
>> It says in the glovebox of my 72 bug, that the front tires should be 18 lb?
>> 
>> Is that right?  That sounds terribly low.  Will 18 lb make a difference from
>> the usual 32 lb?
>> 

    Absolutely right - if you've got the official sticker in your glovebox
why are you questioning it :-)

    I run mine at 20 psi front and 27 psi back - and make checking your
pressures part of your (weekly) routine, especially if your wheel rims are at
all corroded and you haven't got inner tubes; different pressures on the same
axle (particularly at the back) are not a good idea on a bug.....

Marlon

------------
Marlon Cole                  email:  cczcole@unicorn.nott.ac.uk or
Systems Programmer                   cczcole@uk.ac.nott.unicorn depending.....
Cripps Computing Centre
University of Nottingham
NOTTINGHAM. NG7 2RD
England
From: blu@cellar.org (Dan Reed)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: VW Bug Front Tires should be 18 lb?
Date: 8 Jan 93 15:18:06 GMT
Organization: The Cellar BBS and public access system

BARANSKI@veamf1.nusc.navy.mil (Jim Baranski) writes:

> It says in the glovebox of my 72 bug, that the front tires should be 18 lb?
> 
> Is that right?  That sounds terribly low.  Will 18 lb make a difference from
> the usual 32 lb?
> 

Unless you still have the tires from 72' on it.... Ah.. never mind.  Check 
what the TIRE says...

     Dan Reed - blu@cellar.org - AutoCAD Geek -Industrial Music Lover
      68'Cougar, 89'VW Golf, 74'Honda Cb360, 89'Rollerblade Zetras'
  "Anyone can get a gun Otis. You can make a phone call and get a gun."
From: greis@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Gayla Ann Greis)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Vdub bugs
Date: 12 Jan 1993 18:13:06 GMT
Organization: University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
Distribution: world
Reply-To: greis@csd4.csd.uwm.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: 129.89.7.4
Originator: greis@csd4.csd.uwm.edu

From article <jgladu-110193130530@128.249.27.63>, by jgladu@bcm.tmc.edu (grungy (John F. Gladu)):
> In article <Xi85wB1w164w@ham.almanac.bc.ca>, emd@ham.almanac.bc.ca wrote:

>> Even then, they wouldn't float forever, in spite of what the ads said.

> While I can't remember all of the exact wording of the ads, the part that
> mattered was ...the VW Beetle "will definitely float, but it won't float
> indefinitely".  VW never claimed that they would float forever...

They *USED* to float. In fact, I guess in some tests, it was determined
that they floated for approx 45 mins in most situations. (read the book,
Small Wonder. I think it was in there.) But the big problem with that
airtight design was the fact that in a collision, the compressed air
would often blow the windows right out of the car, as well as often
ejecting any passengers! 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: jalics@sample.eng.ohio-state.edu (Laci J. Jalics)
Subject: Re: Help: 85 Golf water leaks when rain and flickering coolant light.
Organization: The Ohio State University Dept of Electrical Engineering
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 19:31:30 GMT

The water leak may come from a clog in a drain hole.  My 84 Rabbit GTI had the
same problem but more serious.  When you open the hood, right above the firewall
there is a cheap plastic water collector.  There is a small hole on the bottom
which directs the water down and to the ground.  If that hole is plugged up with
some leaves or something, the collector will overflow and go into the car.  

I hope it helps.


laci

jalics@ee.eng.ohio-state.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: christos@wucs1.wustl.edu (Christos Papadopoulos)
Subject: Re: [W] What's up with that...
Organization: Washington University, St. Louis MO
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 18:26:53 GMT

In article <1993Jan06.102028.13927@wes.on.ca> tomh@wes.on.ca (Tom Haapanen) writes:

	[stuff deleted]

>The VW shift pattern is quite usual, still, with only reverse in a different
>place (where you're less likely to shift into it accidentally while looking
>for yet another gear on the highway):
>
>	R  1  3  5
>	|  |  |  |
>	| -+--+--+
>	+/ |  |
>	   2  4
>
>Now, my 914 shift pattern certainly takes more getting used to:  :)
>
>	R  2  4
>	|  |  |
>	+--+--+
>	|  |  |
>	1  3  5
>
>
>[ \tom haapanen    "i don't even know what street canada is on" -- al capone ]
>[ tomh@wes.on.ca                   "trust the programmer" -- ansi c standard ]
>[ waterloo engineering software      "to thine own self be true" -- polonius ]

Now the 914 shift pattern is what I like! It makes more sence IMHO to have
2nd and 3rd with this configuration since they are the most used gears during
spirited driving (for lack of a better term!). Anyone knows why most car
companies opted for the first pattern? Any practical reasons or are they
trying to discourage us from driving fast?

Christos.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: BARANSKI@veamf1.nusc.navy.mil (Jim Baranski)
Subject: Re: VW Bug Front Tires should be 18 lb?
Organization: Lanman Hill, Norwich CT
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 93 14:07:26 GMT
X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.20

In <1iinmjINNg12@agate.berkeley.edu> tedcrum@garnet.berkeley.edu writes:

 There is nothing usual about 32 psi. The low front tire pressure is to
 induce some understeer to balance the inherent oversteer of the chassis.
 The car will feel better with more front pressure, but not 32 psi,
 but there is more chance of getting in trouble if you have to make
 an emergency lane change, etc.
 
 -Ted Crum

So, should I actually inflate my front tires to only 18 lbs?  Will this
decrease rattling etc?  Is the reason that the front tire pressure is so low
because there is very little weight up front in the bug?

Jim Baranski
From: benji@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Jeff Benjamin)
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 23:07:13 GMT
Subject: Re: winter tires and steelies question
Organization: Fat Wanda's Brewery & Recording
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw

> recomendations from vw owners on a cheap set of steel rims and good snow
> tires for a 92 Jetta gli(16v).  Right now the car is on BBS wheels with
> MXV2's (about as good as  skiis on snow).

I did the same thing for my '91 Jetta GLI.  I don't know about the MXV2's;
my car came with Continental Sport Contacts which are odd-sized, 185/55
R15.  Snows of any sort were next to impossible to find for this size,
since the aspect ratio is so small.

I ended up getting nice-looking 14" steel rims (~$50 apiece) and
Hakkeppellitta snow tires sized 175/70 R14 (~$70 apiece).  The total
diameter of the rim/tire increases half an inch or so, but that didn't
cause me any problems.  You can't go any smaller than 14" because a 13"
rim won't fit over the front disc brakes.  I'm pleased with the Hakke's
performance on Colorado snow.

Overall, rims and snow tires cost me less than I expect to pay to replace
my Contis :-(.  On the other hand, having snows for the winter will
extend my summer tire's lifetime.

----
Jeff Benjamin                               benji@hpfcla.fc.hp.com
Hewlett Packard Co.                         Fort Collins, Colorado	
"Midnight shakes the memory as a madman shakes a dead geranium."
					    - T.S. Eliot
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: nhaas=@ucunix.san.uc.edu (Nicholas Robert Haas)
Subject: [W] Creamed 85 GTI Oh noooo!
Organization: University of Cincinnati
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 15:17:43 GMT

Three days ago I pulled out into traffic and had a collision with a 91 Fox
while driving my 85 GTI... I definately got the worst of it.. My whole right
front side is smashed against the wheel..  The hood is buckled and the engine
must have moved or something because all my upper gears (R, 1 3 5) wont
engage all the way..  Well I KNOW it will cost about 4-5,000 to repair and
I refuse to do it.. (did it twice already for 3000 each time)  I am gonna
definately buy another VW product, but what do I do with my GTI.. I had no
insurance (I had liability only) so I am stuck with a wrecked car..  

If I part it out, I can get alot of cash but thats hard to do..  The rims are
worth 100 a piecee and the alternator is new.. It has new Injectors, etc...
Does anyone know of a place that would buy it for a reasonable price?? Like
$700 to $1000 sounds about right to me.. Am I dreaming???  HELP!! 


-- 
---===>>> Nick <<<===---
haasnr@ucunix.san.uc.edu
------------------------