HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: baw2@cunixb.cc.columbia.edu (Bruce A Weisberg)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Brake Adjustments on Bug
Date: 17 Aug 92 20:43:42 GMT
Reply-To: baw2@cunixb.cc.columbia.edu (Bruce A Weisberg)
Organization: Columbia University

In article <1992Aug17.145626.4393@bb1t.monsanto.com> bjgaed@bb1t.monsanto.com writes:
>In article <1992Aug17.135408.20324@cci632.cci.com>, lmm@cci632.cci.com (Lance Michel) writes:
>> 
>> I'm having trouble finding the right adjustment on my 73 Beetle drum brakes.
>> The shoes have about 5mm of lining left, and the Drums look plenty thick 
>> enough.  I'm tightening the star adjusters as far as they will go, and then
>> backing them off about a half turn.  Is that too much?
>> After backed off, the wheels rotate with enough resistance to stop them after
>> about two revolutions. 
>> 
>> After adjusting, the pedal travels much too far before the brakes kick in.
>> I have to really crush the pedal before any decent braking occures.
>> 
>You are backing off 'way too much.  Tighten the star adjusters until 
>the wheel *doesn't turn* then back off *2 teeth*.  If the wheel still 
>drags at some points as it turns around your drums are out of round so 
>get them turned.
>
>This is harder to do on the rear wheels because of the inertia of the 
>rear axle and transaxle gears, so do the fronts first and get the hang 
>of it, then do the rears.  Your pedal should start braking much 
>higher.  If this still doesn't do it, you may have brake shoes that 
>are badly worn in spots, or broken return springs, or a bum master 
>cylinder.  All of these are relatively easy to repair/replace.
>
>
>Electric Monk                 (Bruce Gaede)
>                            e-mail: bjgaed@ccmail.monsanto.com
>
>"...and then time started seriously to pass."
>--Douglas Adams, _Dirk Gently's Holistic Detective Agency_

	CAVEAT: NEVER turn a volksie brake drum!!!!!
	They are too thin, and cannot dissipate the
	heat created by lathe cutting.  If the 
	drums are out of round, REPLACVE them.
	Otherwise you will ditort them irreparably.
	:)

	Bruce
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rauletta@sitevax.gmu.edu (R. J. Auletta)
Subject: Motor Mount Replacement (1979)
Summary:  It is possible without dropping the engine
Originator: rauletta@sitevax.gmu.edu
Organization: Electrical and Computer Engineering
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1992 15:20:16 GMT


Can anyone confirm my determination that in order to replace
the engine side motor mount on a 79 VW with air the motor
needs to be dropped.   Has anyone actually done this?

The biggest problem appears to be the two bolts directly
above and below the mount. The rest of the bits and pieces
will come out, but those two look nearly impossible.

I had hoped I could lift the engine just far enough to drive the old
mount out and the new mount in, but I could not get the engine up far
enough. :-( Any idea on just dropping the one side?)

But I did confirm the mount is completely shot.

Any ideas from someone who has been here before?

-Rich Auletta
(rauletta@sitevax.gmu.edu)
From: reedm2@aix.rpi.edu (Matthew William Reed)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: HOW TO FIX AUDI 5000S ?? ODOMETER, STRUTS ...
Date: 13 Aug 92 17:04:52 GMT
Distribution: rec.autos.vw
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY

In article <5127@airs.com> andrew@airs.com (Andrew Evans) writes:

>>$90 and I've heard they are useless, is the 5 cylinder engine the same

>Yes, the five-cylinder is the same, though some details might be
>different as to the year and model.
>-- 
>Andrew Evans (andrew@airs.com) - Infinity Development Systems - Waltham, MA

BE CAREFUL - there are (at least) two 5-cyl engines used in 
1980-90 audis/quantums. One is about 2144 cc and the other is 2224 cc
but they are both referred to as "2.2 liter 5-cylinder" engines.
 
There is a considerable difference in cost between parts for
these two engines - the 2.224 liter is more expensive. I got
the wrong head gasket, it was $28 for the 2.144 liter, and
when I exchanged it for the 2.224 liter version, it was $48.
I told the lady that was kind of outrageous for a damn head
gasket, she said "don't buy a high performance sports care if
you can't afford the parts." I looked out at my quantum, 
well I like to THINK of it as a sports car, but...

Well I'm feeling that I'm sober   |  Matthew Reed 
Even though I'm drinking          |  reedm2@rpi.edu
Well I can't get any lower        |  Rensselaer Polytechnic Theme Park
Still I feel I'm sinking          |  
            - Soundgarden
From: blu@cellar.org (Dan Reed)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Golf overheating.. but not really..
Date: 17 Aug 92 18:57:08 GMT
Organization: The Cellar BBS and public access system


 
This past Thursday, my engine, "said" it was overheating.  The gauge was ALL 
THE WAY into the "hot death" zone.  I said, "Well, the car DOES have 92K on 
it, perhaps its teh thermostat.".  So, I went down to my local Pep Boys, and 
picked up a new thermostat.  Later that day, I got home, and opened my hood.  

On MOST cars the thermostat is located on the TOP and FRONT of the engine, 
but on THIS engine, its on the bottom.  "OK" I thought to myself, no biggie.
 
Wrong.
 
I had to remove, my power-steering pump bracket and hoses. 
There it was, the thermostat housing.  I pulled out the old 
one, and with a mighty rush, got coated in anti-freze.  Not a nice thing to 
happen.  I took in about a 1/2 cup of this stuff, and BOY!  Does it taste 
bad.  Realising that I could go blind, I decided to keep working.  6 hours 
later I got it all back together, and started up the car.  
 
Nothing, it still says its over heating.
 
Miffed and pissed, I decided to say "go to hell" to the car, and just LET it 
over-heat.  See, the car was (is) running fine, and my radaitor *is* getting 
hot, all hoses are warm (hot).  The car seems to be fine.  Then I got to 
thinking..  My electric fan NEVER came on.. What if my car was *never* 
overheating, and my *gauge* (sender unit on the engine) was wrong!  That must 

be it!  Just for good measure I rigged up a relay to the fan, so its on 
"high" when-ever the car is "on" and running.  I then drove to Willis VW in 
Burlington NJ for a new sender (my local" dealer was out of them.. no one 
seems to carry them...).  I installed a new sender, and my car *Still* said 
it was running hot.
 
Damn!! 
 
Then I find out (yesterday) that the car did this once before, and that there 

are TWO temp senders on the engine.  the 2nd one (the one I didnt replace) 
MUST be bad..
 
Yea thats it... thats the ticket..
Man, what a pisser.  I blew my whole weekend over nothing (I hope).
Ug!
 
Is this it?  Like I said, the car *Seems* to be fine, and "normal"
 
Anyone got the normal running temp for this car?  If I had it, I could get
a candy thermometer, and test it..
 
Help!  I dont want to be hurting my car!


----- 
 Dan Reed (Blu-Max) blu@cellar.org - AutoCad Geek - VW Lover - InlineSkater 
68 Cougar XR-7, 89 VW Golf, 72 Honda CL360Twin, Ti/99/4a, Vextrex, Timex
From: Ralph.C.Lindenfeld@dartmouth.edu (Ralph C. Lindenfeld)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: correction- color wiring diagram for '67 (was Re: Cookbooks 
 for Sale)
Date: 17 Aug 92 15:05:16 GMT
 <1992Aug11.144724.670@HQ.Ileaf.COM> 
 <1992Aug11.165039.19027@news.columbia.edu>  
 <1992Aug12.182008.19962@dartvax.dartmouth.edu>
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH

In article <1992Aug12.182008.19962@dartvax.dartmouth.edu>
Ralph.C.Lindenfeld@dartmouth.edu (Ralph C. Lindenfeld) writes:

> In article <1992Aug11.165039.19027@news.columbia.edu>
> baw2@cunixb.cc.columbia.edu (Bruce A Weisberg) writes:
> 
> > >
> > >To purchase one of these books you can send $7.95, which includes $4.25
> > >worth of manufacturers coupons to: Nancy Butters
> > >				   23 Spring Cove Road
> > >				   Nashua NH 03062
> > >What a great bargain!!
> > >
> > >
> > 
> > 
> > 	I need a recipe for new rear wheel bearing seals for my '67 bus...
> > also,if anybody can cook me up a color wiring diagram........
> > 
> 
> Wolfsburg West (La Jolla, CA) makes *very tasty* wiring diagrams for
> all years and models of the type II. I got one for my '60 with a
> bernaise sauce.. I'm very pleased. 
> 
> Ralph Lindenfeld
> 1960 VW Panelvan

that's La Habra.. 

Ralph Lindenfeld
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: tvtjet@eua.ericsson.se (Jorgen Eriksson)
Subject: Re: Engine jerking problem
Organization: Ellemtel Telecom Systems Labs, Stockholm, Sweden
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 07:48:59 GMT

klein@napali.Eng.Sun.COM (Mike Klein) writes:

>In article 27086@oracle.us.oracle.com, jpau@oracle.com (Jeffrey Pau) writes:
>>Hi, I have an 87 VW GTI, for the last few months, it has developed a problem that I
>>can't identified.  Everytime when I give the engine some mild sudden gas, the whole
>>car jerks on me.  The more sudden gas I give/stop giving, the more jerking motion I feel.
>>For everyday driving, it becomes very annoying and I can feel the jerking motion (from
>>the engine bay) through my steering wheel everytime I change gear.  Talking to many
>>mechanics, they all thought that was caused by a worn engine mount.  So I changed both 
>>the front and right rear engine mounts (they both looked good, but I replaced them 
>>anyway), without any improvments, I desperately need some good suggestions.  
>>
>>Has any GOLF/GTI owners experienced similar problem?  My car has 83,000 miles on it.

>I have an '85 GLI and get something like this.  It started recently,
>and only happens when the gas tank is nearly empty (like, 2-4 gallons
>left).  Also the fuel pump makes noise at this level.  Haven't tried to
>trace it further.  It feels like the engine momentarily cuts out on
>me.  Could be a tank of bad gas sometime in the past.
>---

>Mike Klein		{wherever}!sun!klein || mike.klein@Eng.Sun.COM
>Sun Microsystems, Inc.	Mountain View, CA

Sounds like ignition problems. A quick advice that will cost you under $50: 
Replace ALL ignition parts. I have experienced similar problems, it turned out
to be tiny cracks in the distributor cap... I have also had some trouble with
cheap HT leads...
	Hope this helps to solve your problem

		Jorgen
From: mike@ra.cs.umb.edu (Michael J. Thibodeau)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: How easy to replace push tubes on 78 bus with pancake engine?
Keywords: 78 bus pancake
Date: 17 Aug 92 02:44:25 GMT
Organization: University of Massachusetts at Boston, Dept of Math and CS

I have a 78 bus with the last of the aircooled engines. My problem is that it
has a nasty habit of leaking oil at both ends of most of the push tubes. My
question is how easy is it to replace these, and can I use the 2-piece
expandable push tubes? 

-mike
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: kirstein@bohemia.metronet.org (Dale Kirstein)
Subject: Re: Shocks and Exhaust on GTI
Organization: Bohemia BBS System
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1992 07:01:54 GMT

Please note: KONI shocks aren't Japenese. Mine were made in Holland!. 
I find that the adjustable Konis are quite nice!
From: keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov (Larry Keys)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Must I use Autobahn Brand Anti_Freeze?
Date: 12 Aug 92 13:07:35 GMT
Organization: National Institute of Standards & Technology

In article <1992Aug11.111643.1742@drycas.club.cc.cmu.edu> foo@drycas.club.cc.cmu.edu writes:
>Dear VWers,
>
>I am very miffed and angry to find out that after having overheating problems
>and DESPERATELY needing extra anti-freeze to add to my '87 Cabriolet (which
>runs wonderfully otherwise).. that 2 dealers told me that If I did not want
>to buy their Autobahn brand one (at $15 dollars or so a gallon) that I could
>go to any local auto parts store and just buy anti-freeze with no phosphates
>(which supposedly would hurt the aluminum head in my car).  Well... after
>visiting two main auto parts chains in my area and explaining my dilemma..
>(and being told that the restriction seemed silly since one of the people
>I spoke with had an aluminum head on his own car and simply used Prestone),
>a frantic call to my original saleswoman (and bug fanatic extrodinaire) had
>her admit to me.. that those dealers probably wanted me to buy the "VW"
>brand and that Prestone would be fine mixed in the right quantities with 
>water.  
>
>Now, my question is this..  Does anyone know of any particular reason why
>I should ONLY buy the Autobahn brand and can you show me what documentation
>I can read to verify this??  Any help would be appreciated.
>
>foo@drycas.club.cc.cmu.edu


A few months ago Pat Goss (of PBS's MotorWeek) visited our club (National
Capital Area VW Club) and he said that in his shop he has seen many
water cooled VW's because the incorrect type of antifreez was used.
He said use only "phosphate-free" antifreez.  I don't remember the full
explanation, however, it had something to do with the different metals
used in the engine.  Some reaction between, the aluminum, phosphates,
and iron.  Maybe someone else could elaborate.
                                                   .              
                                                 /                
Larry                            __/    ______ /                  
keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov       /                \                 
                         _ _ _      __      _____  \------- ===   
            ---------- /  __ /    /  /    /__  __/            \   
         /            /  / ____  /  /       / /                |  
        |            / /___/  / /  /__   __/ /__              /   
        /_____       \______/  /_____ / /______/        --- ////   
             \_____           2 liter 16v       \_______/         
                                                                              
        Fahrvergnugen forever!
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 11:29:14 EDT
From: Dan <BXP5@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Help!

I own a rabbit.  The body is an '83, but the engine is a '79.  I posted
before about a fuel injection problem and got many responses and finally
solved it.  There was a vacuum leak around the idle screw.  First I want to
thank everyone for all the help as I am rather new to this and the guidance
is desperately needed!

My latest problem is the damn thing won't start.  I originally thought it
was the fuel/air supply, but have tested that and it all seems to be
working.  (and I have tested everything!) I am left with the possibility of
something wrong with the ignition system.  After reading my haynes manual
(still haven't gotten a bentley -- hope to soon though) this system appears
much more complicated.  Mainly because it is very electrical oriented, and
I'm a mechanical person, not an electrical one.  Anyway, what I need is some
warnings, suggestions, etc...  of what not to touch, what to touch, etc...
so I don't get fried.  That would be bad.  Though I am not very experienced
I have a feeling that whoever put this engine in wasn't either.  They didn't
bother to change the fuse box or electrical harness so there are many leads
from the old engine that are not connected to anything, and the wiring is
done very shoddily on this engine.  Will it be a major undertaking for me to
reroute everything so the wires aren't just hanging everywhere in the middle
of oil, grime, etc..?


Also, if anyone could give me some possible ways to get the thing to kick
over so I can at least move it to a better location to work on it (currently
in a parking garage - the perils of apartment living) I am open to
suggestions.  The starter turns the engine, but the engine doesn't kick
over, it just kind of putters for a while and eventually dies.

                               Thanks a billion,

                                         Dan
                                         bxp5@psuvm.psu.edu
From: colemant@yvax.byu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Intake manifold leak '71 bus 1600cc
Date: 18 Aug 92 14:15:39 -0700
Organization: Brigham Young University

My bus has a 1600 engine that I am fine tuning after purchasing the bus.  When 
set on the proper timing it won't run becuase of a vaccuum (sp?) leak in the 
intake (The duct tape made it obvious after a good look).  I bought the 50 
cent rubber things and some metal gaskets to do the job.  I'm having a tough
time separating the intake manifold from the engine, will I have to let the oil
out?  does the carb need to come off?  Help!

--Tom  Coleman
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rroman@casbah.acns.nwu.edu (Randall Roman)
Subject: '66 bug overhaul 
Organizatio:  Northwestern University, Evanston Illinois.
Organization: Northwestern University, Evanston, Illinois, USA
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 03:00:45 GMT

I have '66 bug that I plan on restoring to working condition.  
It has a nasty oil leak which I have been unable to locate, and
I believe the wiring harness needs replacement.  I think the wiring
needs replacement because during its last trip, the hot wire from the
fuse block to the distributor to the choke and idle cut off valve 
shorted and melted.  This wire is in the harness with many others, and
the heat has damaged all of them.  The rest of the car is in fine shape,
There is virtually no rust, and the bottom pan is in especially good
condition.  Has anyone done a similar job?  I would appreciate any advice,
especially on the wiring harness.  BTW, it was initially a 6V but has
since been converted to 12V.  Thanks to all who respond, e-mail or post.

--
Randy Roman
r-roman@nwu.edu
From: andyw@andy.medesign.caltech.edu (Andy Wells)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: reliable cars--For Sale!
Date: 19 Aug 92 17:33:05 GMT
	<1992Aug18.170909.12764@galileo.cc.rochester.edu>
Distribution: ca
Organization: California Institute of Technology


In article <1992Aug18.170909.12764@galileo.cc.rochester.edu> tgpt_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Tom Guptill) writes:

>  I _HIGHLY_ recommend an '81 or later Rabbit Diesel.  


Well, have I got a deal for all you folks out there--

How would you like to own an '81 VW Dasher Diesel satation wagon?

The Dasher is the predecessor of the Quantum wagon and has the same
engine as a Rabbit (just turned 90 degrees).  Everything that people
have been saying about the diesel rabbits applies to this car, too!

My Dasher has 120K miles on it, almost all on the highway.  It gets 
40 miles per gallon on the freeway, 37 mpg around town.  It got a new 
transmission and clutch last year and had its brakes checked and 
replaced this year.  The tires are pretty new, too--about 5K on 
one pair and 14K on the other.  The body is in great shape--no rust, 
no scratches.

All this plus reliability for only $1800!

If you want more info, please e-mail or give me a call...

Andy Wells
andyw@design.caltech.edu
(818)356-4165 (W)
(818)449-7658 (H)
From: tgpt_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Tom Guptill)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: reliable cars
Date: 20 Aug 92 12:27:01 GMT
Organization: University of Rochester - Rochester, New York

[FROM rec.autos.sport]
In <1992Aug20.033849.11769@sequent.com> dafuller@sequent.com (David Fuller) writes:

>Hey, wait a minute here.  This is a RACING group, not a go-slow group.

>If you're not into turbos or nitrous injection, go away!  (Please?)

Hmmm...I wonder if a Rabbit Turbo Diesel would fit the bill?  (heh heh heh)

-- 
|Tom Guptill           | tgpt_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu     |
|CPU Box 277445 U of R | tgpt_ltd@db1.cc.rochester.edu       |
|Rochester, NY 14627   |                                     |
|(716) 274-0351        |                                     |
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 12:32:02 EDT
From: <RXM108@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Incredible Gas Mileage..

I have an '86 Jetta GL, very good shape, with a strange *problem*.  I go
on trips alot with 2-4 hours of straight highway driving.  During these
drives my gas mileage has been steadily INCREASING... Yes, you heard
right.  Now I am getting right about 40 MPG with just your standard
regular unleaded gas.  What is going on??  I'm not complaining, mind
you, but just a little perplexed.  I have noticed a *very* slight
decrease in the overal power of the car, but nothing really alarming.
Anybody have this happen to them?  Lately when I start the car in the
mornings, it will idle VERY low in the beginning and if I touch the cas
it will stall.  I let it go for about 40 seconds, gently tap the gas and
the OXY and batt lights go out and all is cool.  I checked the spray
pattern on the cold start valve and all is as should be.  Am I somehow
restricting gas flow in some way that is actually cutting overally power
slightly yet using the fuel more efficently?  Any ideas are welcome!
+----------------------------------------------------------+
|Roderick Murchison, Jr.      Population Research Institute|
|office: (814) 863-8321       Penn State University        |
|fax:    (814) 863-8342       rxm108@psuvm.psu.edu         |
|home:   (814) 867-1999       murchiso@darwin.psu.edu      |
|       "Friends don't let friends use WordPerfect"        |
+----------------------------------------------------------+
From: jackr@thorodin.dazixco.ingr.com (Jack Reed)
Subject: Re: Vanagon tire replacement
Reply-To: jackr@thorodin.dazixco.ingr.com
Organization: Dazix
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 19:11:19 GMT

In article <1992Aug17.221951.11487@usho93.hou281.chevron.com> xepama@usmi02.midland.chevron.com (P.Mann) writes:
>I have an '86 Westfalia Vanagon which is in need of new tires.  A
>posting asking for information in 'rec.autos' brought a host of
>suggestions, one of which was to ask the same question here.  So.. 
>
>The information in the vehicle states that the tires should run
>39 psi in front and 48 in the rear.  Manufacturers sell tires 
>supposedly for this model which have a max prssure of 40 psi.
>Are these safe?  Any recommendations?  (I need these soon for a
>1300 mile drive, so mail order is out.)
>
>Thanks in advance.
>-- 
>Parker Mann                    xepama@usmi02.midland.chevron.com
> 
>"Keep those cards and letters."
> 

I just put 195/14 _Reinforced_ Vredestein (sic) Sprints on the back of my Vanagon (81).
They were about $60 apiece, are rated at 50k and look to be more than able to
handle a Colorado winter. YMMV.

I was told _not_ to go with standard passenger car tires or with oversized (195s)
tires since the sidewall won't handle the loads.

Jack
From: gerrit@laosinh.stgt.sub.org (Gerrit Heitsch)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Oil changes.  How often?
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 21:51:51 MET
Distribution: world
Organization: Lao-Sinh project (private UUCP site)

In article <1992Aug18.215109.22913@mks.com>, Rich Jones writes:

> Talk about contradicting information!  Will *someone* please tell me how
> often I should change the oil in my 92 Jetta Turbo Diesel?
> 
> The owner's manual says every 8,000 kms.  I don't think this is often
> enough, especially for a turbo.  In fact, the manual says every 12,000
> for non-turbo diesels and gasoline engines.  To me, this sounds *way*
> too long to wait between oil changes.
The manual of my 79 Rabbit Diesel says:

oil change: every 7500 km
oil filter change: every 15000 km.

I change the oil and filter every 8000 km and my car is still
running fine (after 75000 km in my hands).

They suggest 15W-40 oil, I use Mobil 1 (5W-50).
The oil gets black after 1500 km, but will loose its capabilities
after more than 15000 km. A friend changes the oil in his Rabbit Diesel
after 15000 km and the car is still running fine.

> "No way.  You should have it changed every *4,000*.  But don't just take
> my word for it.  Get a second opinion."
Do it as VW suggests, there is a certain amount of safety in their
limit, change the filter every time you change the oil and
use good oil that fulfills the VW norm for Turbo Diesel (VW 50 500 or
VW 50 000). I suggest to use a full syntethic oil like Mobil 1.

How much oil does you car consume (liter/1000km)?

I don't have to add oil between two changes, the level just drops
from max to halfway between min and max. 
You drive a Turbo, so 1l/1000km is still ok for your car.

Gerrit

-- 
         Gerrit Heitsch  Moenchweg 16  7038 Holzgerlingen  Germany
  Logical adresses: UUCP: gerrit@laosinh.stgt.sub.org FIDO: (2:247/706.9)
                 If you are from outer space, please use:
  universe!local-cluster!milkyway!solarsystem!terra!europe!laosinh!gerrit