HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: srbeckle@cbnewse.cb.att.com (steven.r.beckle)
Subject: Chinese bar clamps
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 15:05:37 GMT

>>Subject: Re: Sale on Quick-Grip clamps
>>From: markw@hpcss01.cup.hp.com (Mark Williams)
>>Path: att-out!rutgers!gatech!rpi!usc!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!hplextra!hpcss01!markw
>>Organization: Hewlett Packard, Cupertino
>>Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
>>Date: 6 Jan 93 22:31:38 GMT
>>
>>There is an even cheaper source for clamps:  Chinese clones of
>>the light-duty bar clamps made by Adjustable Clamp (their 37XX series).
>>Since I need lots of clamps I was thinking of making some.  But in
>>my wanderings to the San Jose Flea Market, I found several dealers
>>with these.  They go for $2.50 for the 6" to $5.00 for the 36" ones.
>>I can't really afford to make them at these prices.

Do NOT buy these things! I have a friend who's a hardware distributor
here in the Midwest and every so often he'll ask me to come over to
his house to pick up a couple of dozen of these things that have been
rejected due to defects. He thought the grooves in the spine were too
shallow, but it turns out that the metal gripper tabs are made out of
cheap material and cut incorrectly. As a result, they never tighten
up snug, but just keep slipping.  I've been able to get about 20 of
them working by reversing/flattening/replacing the gripper tabs,
but given that they were free for me, I consider it worth the effort.
To buy them however is a gamble. I see more crap from China sitting
in this guy's garage -- clamps, wood vises, bolt cutters. He sure
didn't buy that Mazda RX-7 selling only this junk.

I won't even begin to talk about the cheap wooden handles that crack
every so often.

Steve
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 8 Jan 1993 11:42:21 -0800
From:         RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM
Subject:      Re: Ryobi planer

I've got the equivelent plane from Delta. It works great for turning
3/4 into 1/2 or 3/8 (and a lot of shavings). It works even better for
cleaning up resawn boards (less shaveings more wood).

I got the Delta because of it's 12" width (insted of Royobi's 10")

If the 10" width isn't a problem  I think the Royobi is a better choice
than the delta.

Royobi makes a 12" that looks realy good and is pushing the price of the
10" down.

                        Ron Tye (all opinions my own)
From: cf603@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Dave Sill)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Advice needed...
Date: 6 Jan 1993 17:25:11 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: cf603@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Dave Sill)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


I've got ~$500 available to spend on woodworking supplies and/or tools, and
I need help deciding what to buy.

First, some background.  I've only got a few tools, I'm mostly self-taught,
and (because I lack tools and knowledge) have only made small, simple
projects so far.  I've got a Grizzley 10" table saw (it's the best saw
*I've* ever used :-), a Sears router w/a router table I built from plans in
Woodsmith, a Sears orbital sander, a Makita drill, a Dremel tool, and the
basic handtools (Stanley chisels, try square, bevel, marking gauge, jack
plane, a couple pipe clamps, C clamps, dovetail saw, etc.)  I've also got
an old Boyce-Crane scroll saw that needs a motor.

I'd prefer to use the $500 to buy something(s) large, since I can usually
scrape up the dough for smaller purchases--but I'd still appreciate advice
on smaller items I should acquire.

I've been leaning toward a thickness planer like the Delta 12" portable
since my stock is rarely the right thickness for my small projects--and I
haven't had much luck with the hand plane.  I skimmed the recent
discussions here and see that jointers often recommended over planers
(don't want to restart that flame war, though), but I've never used one and
I'm not really sure what they do.  Could someone please explain?  Would I
be better off with the Ryobi portable or a larger (e.g., Grizzley/Jet)
Taiwan import (bearing in mind that I'm happy with my Grizzley saw)?

I've never used a lathe, either, but I'm pretty sure I'd like turning.  Any
recommendations or advice there?

Other possibilities include drill presses, disk/belt sanders, biscuit
joiners, a (Leigh?) dovetail jig...

All advice and suggestions will be greatly appreciated.  Respond by e-mail
or to rec.woodworking--your preference.

Thanks.
-- 
Dave Sill
Play: cf603@cleveland.freenet.edu
Work: de5@ornl.gov
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: weissborn@DFWVX1.DALLAS.SDS.SLB.COM
Subject: Re: How to use waterstone?
Reply-To: weissborn@dfwdsr.sinet.slb.com
Organization: Schlumberger Data Services - Dallas
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 93 16:05:41 GMT

In article <WOODWORK%93011023264570@IPFWVM.BITNET>, Jim Morgan <JMORGAN@BROWNVM.BITNET> writes:
>.....some stuff deleted.....
>
>Unmounted waterstones can be left soaking in water.  Veritas makes a 'stone
>pond' for this purpose, but a Tupperware marinating container works well, too.
>Don't leave the soaking stones somewhere where they can freeze - the expanding
>ice will pulverize the stones.  If not left soaking, coarser waterstones (1200
>or below) should be immersed in water for about 10 minutes before use.
>

Is it ok to put a little bleach in the water to prevent bacteria/fungi growth?
The reason I ask is that I used to keep my stones in a tupperware-like 
container but after a week or less, I would get this slimy scum-like stuff
floating in the water.  Now I store the stones dry but understand that this 
is not good as calcium and other minerals, found in hard-water, can damage
the stones just a freezing can.  Anyone else hear of this?

>Waterstones with wooden bases (most polishing stones come this way) cannot be
>left soaking.  Polishing stones do not need to be immersed before use - you
>can just splash a little water on their surface.  A 'nagura" stone is
>available to help in using the harder polishing stones.  This is a chalky
>stone that is rubbed over the surface of the polishing stone and creates
>a paste containing some of the abrasive from the waterstone.  Personally,
>I haven't found that the nagura stone does much - I'm probably using it wrong.

I thought the nagura stone was used to flatten the polishing stones?

>  .... more stuff deleted....
>

Anyone have a favorite supplier/mail-order source for these stones?  I see them
advertised all over under varying brand-names and wonder if one brand is better
than another.   Currently, I have a 1000/6000 combo stone.  I am looking for 
an 800 grit to whip some old planes into shape.  Also, what is the net-wisdom 
on going from 1000 to 6000?  Should I also get a 1200 or some other intermediate
grade before going to the 6000?

Thanks for the feedback

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

Bill Weissborn                              
Schlumberger-GeoQuest Data Services
Data Services Region -- System Support Staff Engineer
4100 Spring Valley Rd. Suite 600            weissborn@dfwvx1.sinet.slb.com
Dallas, Tx.   75244                 or try: weissborn%dfwvx1@hub.sinet.slb.com
(214) 980-7924                      or    : dfwdsr::weissborn

"I got to play baseball...I got a chance to hit..."   Ted Williams
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: kak@durante.att.com (Kurt Kanaskie)
Subject: Ryobi Rolling Table Saw
Organization: Bell Laboratories
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 16:42:36 GMT
Keywords: Table Saw, Ryobi

Hello,

I am in the market for a 10-12" table saw. I have narrowed my search
down to AMT, Delta and Ryobi. I have seen the discussions regarding 
the quality of AMT tools. Although the AMT table saw looks alot like
the Delta, I think Delta has better qaulity. Costs more though.

The Ryobi is different than typical table saws in that it is uses
mostly aluminum rails and accesorries. It also has a rolling table
top which includes a miter fence. The other table top section slides
left and right to extend the table top surface without actually
installing an extension. This table top section also includes a
router mount. The table surface in front of the blade is shorter
than typical saws, but the salesman demonstrated the use of the
rolling miter section to extend the front surface.

Does anyone have any experience with or recommendations for the
Ryobi 10" rolling table saw?

Thanks in advance.

___________________________________________________________________

Kurt Kanaskie				AT&T Bell Laboratories
kak@alux2.att.com			Computer Aided Design Lab
(215) 770-3096				Allentown PA
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: rdc@world.std.com (Ralph D Clifford)
Subject: Re: Dust Masks for Us 4-Eyed Types
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 22:37:17 GMT

In article <1993Jan12.135336.340@software.org> wartik@software.org (Steve Wartik) writes:
>
>Okay, we're all computer jocks as well as woodworkers, right?
>And computer jocks stare at their screens all day, ruin their
>vision, and need glasses.  And glasses interefere with all the
>dust masks I've tried.  Has anyone found a brand of dust mask
>that works, yet leaves enough of the nose exposed that one's
>glasses aren't constantly fighting for position?
>
>				-- Steve Wartik
>				   wartik@software.org

     I use surgical masks.  They are softer and thus can be molded around
my glasses and/or my goggles.  Since they are designed to stop bacteria,
they do more than an adequate job on wood dust, which is larger.  The
disadvantage with them is that they tie on rather than having an elastic band.



-- 
Ralph Clifford
rdc@world.std.com (Internet)
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: 3 phase question
Date: 5 Jan 93 17:40:46 GMT
Organization: LLNL

In article <4098@ecicrl.ocunix.on.ca>, clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis) writes:
> 
> In article <1i4r38INNost@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> cf036@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (G. Gary Preckshot) writes:

> Maybe I misunderstand how these converters worked.
> 
> I thought that you took a three phase motor, with leads A, B and C.
> 
> You connect the 220V to leads A and B.  Then kickstart the motor
> with a capacitor to lead C.
> 
> Then you connect your 3 phase equipment to leads A, B and C of the
> first motor.
> 

You got that part right.

> In such an arrangement, A and B will still be 180 degrees out of
> phase with each other.  And C will have a voltage induced upon
> it that's 90 degrees out of phase of both A and B.  There's no way
> that you can phase shift A and B because there's nothing in
> series with them, short of overpowering your hydro utility.

You got this part wrong.  Lead C has voltage induced in it by the rotating
magnetic vector in the rotor (by phasor addition of voltages in windings
B-C and C-A or C-N).  The rotor is energized by the single-phase
magnetic field produced by the stator winding(s) A-B, but the MMF vector in
the rotor lags the A-B magnetic field because reaction currents in windings
B-C and C-A (or C-N) also contribute to rotor magnetization.  The place you
made your error is in your assumption that "C will have a voltage induced upon
it that's 90 degrees out of phase of both A and B" because of three
misconceptions.

1) That the magnetic circuit is static.  It isn't, it's rotating.
2) That a static single phase magnetic circuit can have an induced voltage
   at 90 degrees from the exciting voltage.  It can't, unless you also have
   a capacitance, in which case it's not a simple "induced voltage."
3) That the rotor MMF is only a function of the field of A-B (A-N to N-B in
   a wye converter).

To solve the problem accurately, you need symmetrical components, which
produce a set of simultaneous equations that take all effects into account.



Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: pauld@mail.boi.hp.com (Paul Davis)
Subject: Driving screws with drill
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 19:07:22 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

Ken Meltsner wrote

> Woodworking Tip: driving screws really heats up your drill.
> Periodically run it unloaded for 15-30 seconds to cool it off --
> there's a little fan inside that's only effective at full rpm.

I, too, use square-drive screws for almost everything.  I'd use
them for everything if I didn't have a bunch of phillips heads
to use up.  I just finished hanging a bunch of sheetrock, and I
used square-drive drywall screws; they don't fall off when you're
driving them over your head.  I don't think I would use square-
drives for attaching hinges to furniture, even if I could get
brass ones, but that's the only exception I can think of.

Getting to Ken's quote, I bought a drywall gun to hang the 
sheetrock, and the salesman told me that if I was going to use the 
gun for general woodworking I should get a lower-RPM, higher-amp 
gun than the entry-level drywall driver.  He said I'd burn up the 
gun driving longer screws into wood.  I ended up paying $120 for 
the Milwaukee 6798-1, which is 5 amps and 0-2500 RPM.  (The least 
expensive drywall-only guns are 3.5 amps and 0-4000 RPM, and cost
about $90). It came with a TEKS nose for sheetmetal screws, and 
I bought a drywall nose for $7.  It worked great for the sheetrock, 
and it's still working great around the shop, driving screws up to 
3" long.  For driving screws into a deep countersink, I can 
quickly unscrew the nose assembly.  The 6798 has a depth-sensitive 
clutch, of course.

Before I got the Milwaukee, I was using a B&D Pro 1166
3/8" variable speed drill for boring holes and driving
screws.  It worked okay, but I got tired of changing bits
for drivers.  I also stalled it out a few times trying to
back out screws that I'd just driven in.  It was 4 amps,
0-2500 RPM.  I figured I could buy a real driver gun now
and keep using the B&D for drilling holes, or I could 
wait a few months and have to buy two tools.

Paul
From: tony@jassys.UUCP (Tony Holden)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re:      What to do after the fact?
Date: 8 Jan 93 11:57:20 GMT
Organization: HSC CO.


        Jeff Roberts <JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.BITNET> writes:
> I was talking with an aquaintance some time back about his stub where his
> index finger used to be.  He got careless with a circular saw.  I asked the
> obvious question about reattachment and why he had chosen not to have his
> finger sewn back on.  His response was that he had a mechanic friend who cut
> his finger off and every time that finger got cold it turned blue and caused
> him a great deal of pain....seemed to be a circulation problem.  Hence his
> decision..
> 
> My hands get cold ALOT,  would I rather deal with frequent pain or a
> disfigured hand?  I'm not sure yet....I'll cross that road when I never come
> to it but it is still a bothersome question..

There is the other side of the coin.

Back around '78-80 I had a roomate in college that was doing
construction work during the summer break.  Being a architect major he
thought it would be a good idea to get some hands on type training.

He was cutting some studs and somehow got hos hand in the way.  But
off his hand at a angle just below the knucles(sp).  According to Tim
(the roomate) many foul words followed.  At that point he was more mad
at himself that worried about his hand.

They packed his hand in ice and took him to ER.  Attached his hand
back on spent 3-4 days in intensive care, very painful days, no pain
killers.  He took the semster off but now has about 90% use of his
hand.  Tim is now a architect.

So although it was not fun it can be done.

BTW. the doctors said that the fact that a saw cut his hand off made
it easier to attach.  They said that the saw left a jagged edge on the
blood vessles and nerve endings and stuff, made it easier to reattach.



They 
-- 
Tony Holden					live on the edge,
tony@jassys					  Bank in Texas
jassys!tony@rwsys.lonestar.org
From: martin@biostat.washington.edu (Don Martin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Push Sticks  (was Re: WARNING (response to...))
Date: 6 Jan 1993 19:12:53 GMT
Organization: Biostatistics, School of Public Health, Univ. of Wash.
NNTP-Posting-Host: beast.biostat.washington.edu
Summary: Push sticks and alternatives.

In article <Jan06.155708.33273@yuma.ACNS.ColoState.EDU> mglacy@lamar.ColoState.EDU () writes:
>....Various people relate their table saw accidents......
>
>I appreciate reading the accident stories---really, one can never be
>reminded too often.  I'm struck, though, that no one has mentioned
>using push sticks as a preventive measure.  Push sticks are easy
>to make from scrap, are relatively easy to use, and will eliminate
>text deleted
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-==-=-=-=
>Mike Lacy, Sociology Dept.      CSU and I have a deal: We don't take
>Colo. State Univ.               responsibility for one another's opinions.
>Fort Collins CO 80523           voice (303) 491-6721

Push sticks are a big plus for safty. Here are two related ideas
that might help also:

Use ice picks for pushing small pieces. This was given as a 
pattern makers trick in FWW. It seems to work well.

Rig small sliding table jigs for small work. These are common for 45
degree cuts but right angle and rip cuts are equally useful. The narrow
slot in the sliding table ( usually 1/4 ply or 1/8 tempered hardboard for
mine) spports small pieces better and it is easier to use a stick
to hold the piece and push the table past the blade.

Don Martin

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: weissborn@DFWVX1.DALLAS.SDS.SLB.COM
Subject: Re: Norm's New Season
Reply-To: weissborn@dfwdsr.sinet.slb.com
Organization: Schlumberger Data Services - Dallas
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 93 22:39:24 GMT

In article <1993Jan8.205357.11693@mloeff01.cpchq.cpc.gmeds.com>,
kl@cveng120.veheng.det (Keith L) writes: 
>I don't know...  Once you get a squiblet flurbigator and start using it 

> you'll wonder how you ever got along without it.  If you buy the AMT, you'll
> wish you would have spent the extra dollars for the Delta, especially when you
> have to replace its plastic flywheel regularly (Can't beat that Delta cast
> platinum-rhodium flywheel!!!)

The Grizzly is cheaper than the Delta Model, and better made than the AMT.  The
Jet model is almost as good as Delta but $100 more than Grizzly.

 8-)


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: davidb@hpmcaa.mcm.hp.com.mcm.hp.com (David Burton)
Subject: Re: GRIZZLY TOOLS
Organization: HP Cardiology Business Unit - McMinnville, OR
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL7]
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 01:16:38 GMT

Bruce Melvin (bwm@hprnd.rose.hp.com) wrote:
: Does anyone have any knowledge or experience with grizzly tools?  I am 
: interested in their table saws.  Their smaller 10" table saw looks to me to be 
: the same, except for color, as the AMT 10" table saw.  The price of the Grizzly
: saw is about a $100.00 less than the AMT version.  Grizzly also imports another
: 10" TS that weighs 500 lbs. and is $850.


    Refer to Jointers, which one to buy, in this group.

	David Burton  HP MCM TN434-8395

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: rhoover@watson.ibm.com (Roger Hoover)
Subject: Re: Pipe Clamp Pipes
Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1993 16:20:19 GMT
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center


>Does anyone have any experience cutting their own threads in 3/4" black
>iron pipe for pipe clamps? Places around town want $2.00 per end for pipe
>not purchased at their store. I have about 6 4-5 ft pipes I found in
>excellent condition that need threaded. Is it cost effective to buy the
>tools to do this?

You will need a pipe threader and you will probably want a pipe cutter as
well.  I have a threader with cutting dies for 1/8, 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, and 3/4
inch pipe that I bought at a garage sale with a 3 wheel cutter for $30.
Even at that price, you'd have to do quite a few ends to save money.  New,
these items will cost you up to $200.

It's nice, however, to be able to turn one big pipe clamp into several
smaller ones without running to a plumbing supply store.  Also, you can
also do your own plumbing....

roger
rhoover@watson.ibm.com

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: warren@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (warren.a.montgomery)
Subject: Re: Biscuit Adapter for Sear's Routers
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 14:04:26 GMT
Summary: I have one and it's good for edge joining, here are some tips

In article <1993Jan4.143422.5769@kodak.kodak.com>, marulli@kodak.kodak.com (Dave x71244/RDCS/2-205-KO) writes:
> Has anyone tried the adapter that Sear's sells for their routers that turns 
> it into a biscuit joiner? It's about $40, so I don't have much faith in it.
> 

I have one that I have used in several projects and like it.  It
has lots of limitations, but if two of YOUR limitations are space
and $ and you only want it for certain operations, it's great.  I
mount mine on an old, small B&D router, for which I needed an
auxilliary universal base to fit the Biskit gadget.  Not
difficult, but it required some drilling.  Here is what you can do
with it:

Edge joining:  This is what it is made for and quite good at.  The
only limitation is that the base overlaps the board by quite a
bit and hides any markings under 3 inches from the edge you are
putting the slot in.  My solution was to put the marks on an old
piece of thin plywood and clamp my thin boards over it, lining up
with the marks underneath (also a real timesaver if you are making
lots of slots at regular intervals.

Slotting ends of boards:  The BisKit has big hole for the cutter,
so trying to cut into anything less than about 4 inches wide is
tough.  I had to do this once and accomplished it by clamping
scrap on both sides of my workpiece, but it's not easy and a bit
scary.

Making slots in surfaces:  You can only do this at the edges,
since the face of the gadget and router have to overhang the edge
of your work.

Sotting mitered ends:  I don't see how to do this without making
some kind of elaborate jig, since the BisKit doesn't come with a
45 degree or adjustable face like most of the real bisquit joiners
do.

My bottom line:  If what you are looking for is a better way to
edge glue boards to make flat surfaces, this thing is easier and
produces better results for me than dowels, tounge and groove, or
nothing, it's a lot cheaper than a dedicated machine, and it hangs
compactly on the wall when I'm not using it.

-- 

	Warren Montgomery
	att!iexist!warren
From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 18:50:38 GMT
Subject: Re: WARNING (response to...)
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server