From: jmethot@vicorp.com (John Methot)
Subject: Report: Chile Skiing
Reply-To: jmethot@vicorp.com
Organization: V. I. Corporation, Northampton, Massachusetts
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 15:24:04 GMT

   I recently returned from a vacation in South America that included four
days of skiing in Chile.  I thought other occupants of the northern hemi-
sphere might be interested in my experience.
   There are about a dozen ski areas in Chile.  Nearest to Santiago there are
two major areas.  Portillo is about three hours from Santiago (by bus/car)
on the Argentine border.  The world championships were held here in the
sixties (and perhaps since?).  I didn't go to Portillo, but I got the
impression it is the premier resort in Chile.  Closer to Santiago (1 1/2
hours by bus/car) is a cluster of resorts.  In order of appearance as you
climb the road, they are Farellones, La Parva, El Colorado and Valle Nevado.
   The road from Santiago to these areas is spectacular.  You climb from
Santiago (probably well <1000 ft. elevation) to Farellones (probably >7000)
in about 60 km of road - with 40 switchbacks.  The village of Farellones
is perched on a high cliff.
   We stayed at El Colorado.  We were skiing from 17-20 August, and it was
already definitely spring skiing - icy in the morning and very slushy by
afternoon.  Temperatures were about 12 C in the afternoon.  I guess the
*winter* skiing is in July.  July, however, is also the month that schools
in Chile are on vacation - so I assume the ski areas get much more crowded
(and expensive).  We never saw a lift line while we were there.
   El Colorado was the cheapest place we could find to stay, but it was still
rather expensive (US $79 per person per night).  Next time I would just take
along a supply of Dramamine and take the van from Santiago each day.  There
is a company called Ski Total that will take you up and back on the same
day for 5000 pesos (US $14).  The are located on Avenida Apoquindo in Santiago.
   If you do stay at one of these resorts, be warned that they are above
8000 ft. elevation.  One is likely to get altitude sickness when one sleeps
at that altitude (I did - a 36 hour worst headache of my life).  Another
North American that I met there told me U.S. doctors can prescribe a
drug (Dialox? - something -lox) that will increase your heart rate a little
while sleeping, thus increasing oxygen to the brain and avoiding the
problem.  This drug is aparently available over the counter in Chile (if
you know what to ask for).
   I only got to ski El Colorado, but I could see Valle Nevado and La Parva
from there - they both looked great.  El Colorado is a cone - like Mt. Bachelor.
The other two are spread out over more rugged looking peaks; they reminded
me of the Arlberg in Austria.  La Parva and El Colorado are small villages
that have a variety of accomodations (don't just arrive and expect to find
some, though - make reservations!).  Valle Nevado is only four years old,
and is a self-contained resort of one hotel that has several restaurants,
a disco, ski shops, etc.
   All of the skiing is (far) above tree line.  There was no new snow while
we were there (it started snowing as we left :(, but with a foot or so of
powder all of these areas would be heaven.  There is more skiable terrain
than I've seen anywhere - I'm sure it must take quite a while for it to all
be skied.
   Lift tickets at El Colorado were 5000 pesos (US $14) midweek and 7900
pesos (US $22) weekends and holidays.  I was told that for another 2500
pesos I could buy a voucher that would allow me to also ski La Parva or
Valle Nevado.  If you accidentally ski from one to the other, you can buy
the additional ticket from the lift attendant.
   The national ski teams of Great Britain, Spain, U.S. and Canada were all
training at El Colorado while we were there.  The Chilean ski team, we were
told, was training in Argentina :-)
   One additional note:  I am spoiled by European travel, where I can use
just about any major credit card if I need to.  The three biggest (Visa,
MasterCard and Amex) are taken sporadically in Chile.  Some places will
take MasterCard but not Visa and vice versa.  I was trying to find a bank
that would give me a cash advance on my Visa, but I could only find banks
that would do it with MasterCard (which I didn't bring :-(  They also won't
perform this transaction at a branch - you must go the the main office.
Bring a lot of patience with you.
   Feel free to e-mail me if you have any questions I didn't answer.  I'd
also appreciate it someone who is familiar with skiing in New Zealand would
post a similar report (or e-mail to me).  I could get hooked on skiing
year-round.

John Methot
jmethot@vicorp.com