From: Edward_Lunny@mindlink.bc.ca (Edward Lunny)
Subject: Greece report- 1992
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 21:49:02 GMT

Keep in mind that the dollars quoted are Canadian.
Any questions, feel free to E-mail.

                   Travelling Light in Greece


Alone in Greece- hardly new ground for travel veterans but for
someone middle aged who has never been away from North America, it
was quite an experience. I booked 3 nights in Athens before I left
Vancouver with no plans for the next 4 weeks except to see Greece. My plan
was to amortize the 1500 dollar airfare with cheaper
accomodation and meals etc. on the less expensive islands.
  But let's start at the beginning.  Packing proves difficult so
research pays off. Some travel stores have a good checklist and the
library has numerous books that tackle the subject. Like many
people, I usually pack too much so to put everything needed into a
carry on bag took several practice runs. Like Noah, I bring two of
everything except for underwear (5). We all have our
idiosyncrasies. Pack those things that will be expensive-film at
$7.00 a roll, suntan lotion at $10.00 a bottle and pocket books. I
learn that research doesn't always work though, when my over full
bag breaks at the Athens airport the day I arrived.

Bring a publication such as  "Let's Go-Greece". It lists good
places to change money, inexpensive places to eat and stay, costs
of transportation, museums to see, maps etc. Athens is a vibrant, yet heavily
polluted city. It takes only 2
days to see the main attractions - Acropolis, Parthenon, City
Museum and the Plaka Market (my favourite)-so I decide to head for
Naxos.

Greek ferries are generally on time and reasonably clean. The
people make the trip worthwhile. This ferry has two televisions
located close to each other, on at the same time.  People change
channels at will, turning the volume up and down, and no one seems
to mind. Six hours later, the picture post card island of Naxos comes into
view. The docking of the ferry turns out to be an event.  The boat
backs up to a cement pier at high speed and then reverses its'    engines at
the last minute. The ramp drops, people run off and on, the few cars get on
board in 3-4 minutes and a short time later,
it's gone. The ferry, not the dock. Total time spent in port-5
minutes. Booking ahead for accommodation in low season (May and early June)
is unnecessary.  Local residents meet each ferry and offer me an
inexpensive, clean place to sleep. As they sometimes say a place is
closer than it is, I learned to take the offer from older people as
they usually don't walk too far! The average cost of a clean room
including breakfast is about 20 dollars Canadian.

I decided to take a trip on public transport across the island. It
was like travelling back in time! I see mules, peasants, and women
tilling the fields by hand. Leaving Naxos, I go to the spectacular island of
Santorini.  Years
ago, this island had major earthquakes which caused one third of
the island to fall into the sea. The island's main towns have been
built precariously on ledges and its' beaches have black sand from
volcanic ash. On the north part of the island, in a town called Oia, I sit in
a
small cafe with the owner. He is well travelled and speaks English.
A young man (a lawyer from Toronto) comes in to ask for help as his
moped has broken down and he is unable to get the bike or himself
back to his hotel. The owner agrees to assist and phones the hotel
where this fellow was staying. After much animation and discussion
in Greek on the phone, the owner tells the Torontonian that a truck
will be there in 30 minutes with a replacement moped. As this is
very quick by Greek standards, I ask the owner how he did it. He
says he told the hotel that the moped rider was so angry that the
moped was about to be thrown into the sea! To get to the island of Rhodes, I
choose the 65 dollar plane rather
than a 12 hour ferry ride. The town of Lindos is mainly for
European tourists on package deals. There are British bars and ham
and egg breakfasts available for the homesick. It's a lovely spot,
with an ancient fortress and excellent beaches.

My next destination is the largest island, Crete. While waiting for
the ferry, I consider that a traveller is never quite sure how long
he will be in one place. There are disadvantages- rooms are
generally more expensive for one and there is sometimes no one to
take your picture.  The ferry to Crete takes 12 hours. It arrives
at 4am and for the first time I am apprehensive as I don't want to
be here in Iraklion (a big city of 100,000), alone. I follow some
backpacking young people and they end up at the bus depot. Their
plan is to wait at the depot until the first bus comes and take it
wherever it goes. I do the same. The city of Hania looks good after a lengthy
ferry ride, a 2 hour
wait and a 3 hour bus trip, so I check into the first place I come
across.  There is one catch - the 3 minute shower which comes with
the price of the room. When the hot water stops, I yell and the
landlady skilfully negotiates an extra 300 drachmas (2 dollars) for
an extra 5 minutes.

The next morning a bus takes a group of us to the Samaria Gorge-an
l8 kilometre hike which goes from the top of a mountain to the sea
where we can connect to a ferry. As the walk is basically downhill,
I believe it will be a snap. Guess again! The path is full of
stones and care must be taken with every step. But the worst
happens when 11 kilometres down the path a warning goes up that the
ferry will not be coming at the other end. We should retreat if we
want to get back to Hania that night. 3 kilometres back I realize
that the uphill climb will kill me. I don't have to be anywhere   else so I
decide to go the rest of the way down and sleep on the
beach if need be. About 20 of us have the same idea and are
rewarded at the end of the trip when we find a Taverna with food
and cold beer. The big bonus of the day comes when word arrives
that the ferry will be coming after all. Sleep comes easy that
night! After an hour's bus ride the next morning I arrive at Rethymnon.
This is a resort city with slightly higher prices for a room.
However, downstairs I can have breakfast for 2 dollars with
unlimited buns, juice and coffee and the bar gives me half litre
beers or Metaxa brandies for a dollar. Dinner in Greece is usually
about 10 dollars including wine and service . The island of Paros is similar
in size and terrain to Naxos but is
a little busier because of its airport.  I arrive to the usual
throng of people offering rooms.  However, I go with the guide book
recommendation and get the last available room.  It is cheap,
comfortable and has a luxury I have not been used to- my own
bathroom!! I immediately pay for 5 nights. The next night I'm watching the
sunset in a local bar and chatting
with the English speaking waiter. I mention that I am scheduled to
be in Italy at the end of the month so he suggests that I take the
ferry from Paros. I can't believe my good fortune.  After checking
with a travel agent, I'm booked to Ancona on the east side of
Italy. The next few days pass quickly as the pressure is off. The
only wrinkle about the ferry is that I may be sharing a small cabin
with 3 other strangers.  Oh well, another adventure. I'm up before dawn to
catch the ferry. By taking this boat,
passengers get the pleasure of going through the Corinth Canal
which is very narrow and has high cliffs on both sides.  After a
nice dinner and brandy I spend a little time in the lounge and
retire at midnight. There are now bags on one of the bunks so
company is coming.  At 1 am the door opens and my new room mate
appears. He is elderly and starts to pick up all his luggage. Through hand
signals, I learn that he is going to stay with a
relative so I say goodbye.  At 5:30 am there is a loud knocking at
the door. Two crew members want me to get my bag and get off the
boat.  I may be a little slow but I know when 2 nights have passed
not one, and state that I'm getting off in Italy.  It takes a while
but I then realize that they are looking for the elderly gent who
was supposed to be sleeping in the room with me.  Soon it is
straightened out but not without a few new grey hairs for me. This is an
excellent way to travel and a wonderful experience.The
cost of this trip was 3500 dollars Canadian all inclusive.
--

 " Ted "
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