HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov (Larry Keys)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: More '86 GTI questions
Date: 24 Jul 92 12:19:52 GMT
Organization: National Institute of Standards & Technology

In article <182756@pyramid.pyramid.com> andrem@pyrman2.mis.pyramid.com (Andre Molyneux) writes:



>The car also has a sunroof, but the headliner on the roof itself is torn.
>Is there any way for mere mortals with a normal toolbox to get the sunroof
>panel out so that some repairs can be done?  Is it covered in the Bentley
>manual (which I will hopefully be ordering soon)?  Or is this something
>best left to a shop or (horrors) a dealer?


I am almost certain that Bentley covers the removal of sunroof's.  I'd wait
until i got the manual, before considering taking the car in.  Also you may
want to check the catalog price of the RB manual before you order.  Some
dealers have the manual for the same price as the "aftermarket" dealers.

>
>Finally, the front grill on our car was replaced at some point in it's past
>with a grill lacking the little "GTI" letters.  Can anyone tell me if the
>letters are molded into their grill, or are a separate piece that can be
>attached to the normal grill?

If the GTI "emblem" is the same as that of the GLI it just snaps in place.
Check the junk yard first though, i find that dealer parts can sometimes
be pretty pricy for the small items.


>Speaking of grills, when I went to Italy a couple of years ago all of the GTIs
>that I saw had a different grill with round headlights and what appeared to
>be a pair of round driving lights.  I've seen a few of these in the States
>also, but the vast majority have had the rectangular "flush" headlamps (mine
>included).  Were GTIs sold with the round headlights in the U.S., or have
>some people substituted the European grill and headlights on their cars?


The late model GTI's (1990 - 92') have this grill.  It is available through
most after market dealers for about $379.00.  I am saving to get one for my
Jetta (that's if i don't find one at the junk yard first).

                                                   .              
                                                 /                
Larry                            __/    ______ /                  
keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov       /                \                 
                         _ _ _      __      _____  \------- ===   
            ---------- /  __ /    /  /    /__  __/            \   
         /            /  / ____  /  /       / /                |  
        |            / /___/  / /  /__   __/ /__              /   
        /_____       \______/  /_____ / /______/        --- ////   
             \_____           2 liter 16v       \_______/         
                                                                              
        Fahrvergnugen forever!
From: GARN@SLACVM.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU (GARY NIEMI)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Air-cooled engine mufflers
Date: 22 Jul 92 02:13:44 GMT
Organization: Stanford Linear Accelerator Center

I know that the VW air-cooled engine is a noisy beast; so my question is
this:  What is the quietest muffler for the VW?  I would like to keep the
noise down as much as possible.  Is the stock muffler the best?  What about
a header with some kind of "turbo" muffler?  Are any particular brands better
than others?  I heard a cheapo dual muffler header a few years ago - it was
definitely louder than stock.  Any ideas would be much appreciated.
-Gary Niemi
From: jlaur@tagore.helios.nd.edu (Joe Laur)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Recommoendation sought on a VW parts mail-o
Date: 23 Jul 92 23:49:49 GMT
Reply-To: jlaur@handel.helios.nd.edu (Joe Laur)
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Notre Dame

In article <1992Jul20.182256.21589@cbnewsi.cb.att.com>, het@jolt.att.com (Engin Tekkoc) writes:
NOT MINE>In article 10078@seas.gwu.edu, lai@seas.gwu.edu (William Y. Lai) writes:
NOT MINE>>Can someone recommend mail order sources for VW parts?

	I've always got good advice, prices and service from:

	Don's Sport Vehicle Sales
	24514 W. Six Mile
	Detroit, MI 48219
	 313-533-0711

	Ask for Don, he's been at it for 25 years.
	
						Joe
	sorry, no sig. :-(
From: orban@ciit85.ciit.nrc.ca
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: What is this part?CLOSE
Date: 29 Jul 92 01:42:40 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: National Research Council

In article <1992Jul28.211523.5457@wuecl.wustl.edu>, christos@wucs1.wustl.edu (Christos Papadopoulos) writes:
> 	For a long time now I was watching this thing under the hood
> of my 84 Jetta and I kept wondering what it is! You know, the plastic
> thing that looks like it is made out of bubbles glued together. This
> thing has a thin plastic hose coming down to the engine and connecting
> with other hoses.
> 	What does this do? I noticed that some of the connections in these
> hoses are cracked. Would this create a problem?
> 
That is a vacuum reservoir. It operates different things depending
on the version of your car, like EGR valve, charcoal canister purge
valve, ventillation flaps if you have an AC. There is a check
valve between the intake manifold and the reservoir. If it leaks
after this valve, you can have problems in the operation of the
things needing the vacuum to work, if it leaks before, you can have 
rough idle and/or hesitation when accelerating.

Hope this helps, Peter
--
Peter Orban                           | preferred: orban@ciit85.ciit.nrc.ca
National Research Council of Canada   | or: orban@nrcamt.nrc.ca
From: richard@diva.Berkeley.EDU (Richard Hsu)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Vanagon suspension
Summary: What can be done for a smoother ride?
Date: 24 Jul 92 19:52:29 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
NNTP-Posting-Host: diva.berkeley.edu


I have an '80 Vanagon L Wesfalia (camper) with 60K miles on it.  Does
anyone have any experience and/or suggestions on how to make the ride
smoother, especially in the back seat?  Riders in the back often get
carsick, especially on long trips.  No modifications have been done so
far--all stock equipment.  My shock absorbers are not defective.

The present ride feels quite stiff, and it handles like a truck.  I'd
like to cure the source of the problem rather than just treat the
symptoms, i.e., pass out Dramamine.

Please e-mail responses to me; I rarely read this newsgroup.  I'll
post the best suggestions if there is enough interest.  Thanks!
From: mervin@mips.com (Mervin Beng)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Tranny oil
Date: 27 Jul 1992 05:14:35 GMT
Organization: MIPS Computer Systems, Sunnyvale, California
NNTP-Posting-Host: bismarck.mips.com

In article <1682EC7FF.M13204@mwvm.mitre.org> M13204@mwvm.mitre.org writes:
>My '82 Jetta has around 116k on it.  I've never changed the tranny oil in it
>and I thought it might be time to do that.  RB says that it never needs to be
>changed and so did the VW dealer I contacted.  But I believe that oil doesn't
>last forever (except when you don't want it to :-) ).

I'm a Redline convert, thanks to some recommendations on this newsgroup :-)

I think some caution is in order...  There is *gearbox* oil  (for manual
gearboxes), *gear* oil (for final drive, etc), and ATF for auto gearboxes.
Using the wrong "tranny" oil can lead to dire problems..

>From the letters, it seems that Redline GL-4 (75-80W) is the oil of choice.
>I've been a staunch Castrol user for a number of years using their
>engine oil and transmission gear lube in other cars.  Is Redline that much
>better than Castrol or is this a case of apples and oranges (petro-oil as
>opposed to synthetic) ?

The reports of good results with Redline are mostly where MTL (or MT-90)
has been used in manual gearboxes.  I've seen distinct improvements in an
oldish Citroen (immediately noticeable), and a 4-yr old Audi (small
improvement at first, but still improving after 4 weeks).  YMMV!

Mervin

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: Daryl W. Dunbar <dunbar@convex.COM>
Subject: Re: Good price for '92 VR6, '90 60 Corrado
Originator: dunbar@mikey.convex.com
Reply-To: dunbar@convex.COM (Daryl W. Dunbar)
Organization: CONVEX Computer Corporation, Tennessee Office, USA
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 19:32:36 GMT
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by a user at CONVEX Computer
              Corp. The opinions expressed are those of the user and
              not necessarily those of CONVEX.

In article <14fcd4INNfrn@agate.berkeley.edu> jimy@hkn.Berkeley.EDU (Jim Young) writes:
>In article <Jul20.175537.18731@engr.washington.edu> eliot@lanmola.engr.washington.edu (eliot) writes:
>
>Minor complaint:
>
>you can't roll up both windows at once.  even though both windows have
>the "one touch" feature common these days, you have to wait until one
>window has stopped moving before you can do anything with the other.
>

This is to prevent you from 'burning-out' the window system.  The primary 
reason power windows fail is the owner operating more than one window at a 
time, thereby overloading the system (vacuum in this case).  It may take a 
little longer, but it will save you money in the long run! :-)

>also, the shifter refuses to go into reverse sometimes.  i usually just
>stick it in neutral, raise the clutch and depress it again, and it'll
>be okay.  can anyone tell me why this happens?
>

My Audi used to have the same problem, but I have never seen it in my G60.
If you have a VR6 then you have the hard linkage instead of the Bowden cables
in the G60's.  I never got a good explination of why, just one of those 
quirks in an otherwise excellent gear box. :-)

>
>jim
>
>
>-- 
>Jim Young               
>jimy@hkn.Berkeley.edu

Daryl

................................................................................
	Daryl W. Dunbar	
	Software Support Engineer			dunbar@convex.com
	CONVEX Computer Corporation - Mail Stop 120	(615)454-7895 Voice
	Arnold Engineering Development Center		(615)454-6171 Fax
	Arnold Airforce Base, TN 37389-5000
................................................................................
These opinions are my own and not necessarily those of my employer, or any 
other human being for that matter.
-- 
...............................................................................
	Daryl W. Dunbar	
	Software Support Engineer			dunbar@convex.com
	CONVEX Computer Corporation - Mail Stop 120	(615)454-7895 Voice
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: jackr@thorodin.dazixco.ingr.com (Jack Reed)
Subject: Re: Correct Rabbit Oil Pressure???
Reply-To: jackr@thorodin.dazixco.ingr.com
Organization: Dazix
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 17:30:20 GMT

In article <92205.104859UD180274@NDSUVM1.BITNET>, Roger A. Huggins <UD180274@NDSUVM1.BITNET> writes:
> I just installed and oil pressure gauge on my '79 Rabbit.  I'm
> getting readings that VERY QUICKLY shoot up >100psi.  At idle it
> is at about 50psi, and I'd say it surpasses 100 by 1500-2000 rpm.
> Does anyone know if this is normal or not???  I'm worried that
> it may be too high, and the pressure relief valve isn't working
> properly.   Thanks for your help!
> 

Pressure gauges are not well known for their accuracy. If you want the final
word on the subject, take it to the dealer and have them hook up one of their
gauges. 

The gauge on my 77 Bunny shoots up to >100 psi when cold at first start up.
Once everything is good and warmed up the gauge reads ~75 psi at highway speeds
and ~25 psi at idle. YMMV.

If it reads >100 psi whenever you're off idle, take it back and exchange it for
another one and see what the difference is. It should read below 100 psi once
the engine is hot, though.

Jack
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: JWEST@r3vm.dsd.trw.com (Judson West)
Subject: Re: A dealer to avoid???
Organization: TRW Electronic Systems Group
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 00:04:08 GMT

In article <1992Jul29.154522.9733@galileo.cc.rochester.edu>
tgpt_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Tom Guptill) writes:
 
>In <c4vR02Af1bQX01@JUTS.ccc.amdahl.com> dld80@ccc.amdahl.com (Don Dusza) writes:
>
>[dealer troubles]
>
>[more dealer troubles]
>
 
When I lived in Burke, VA, I took my Rabbit to Stohlman VW. It was in and
out of the service department, for problems that should have been fixed
the first time, so much there was more grease in the car than under the hood.
 
Since moving out to sunny/shakey California, I have been taking my Passat
and Vanagon to Vasak Polak VW. I have never had a problem with repeat
problems and they wash the car after it's serviced.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Judson West                          Phone:     (310) 812-4394            |
| VM System Programmer                 Internet:  JWEST@r3vm.dsd.trw.com    |
| IBM Operating Systems                IBMMail:   IBMMAIL(USTRW001)         |
| TRW/Electronic Systems Group, One Space Park, Redondo Beach, CA 90278     |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Porsche 944 reliability
From: lis@at-mail-server.vitro.com
Date: 21 Jul 92 10:06:12 -0500
Reply-To: lis@at-mail-server.vitro.com
Distribution: world
Organization: Vitro Corporation


I've been considering purchasing a used (88-90) Porsche 944 or 944 Turbo. I
would appreciate any comments regarding reliablity, repair costs, recurring
problems, etc. It would be used as a daily driver, in all weather.

Thanks in advance-
 
Larry Spector
LIS@at-mail-server.vitro.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: jackr@thorodin.dazixco.ingr.com (Jack Reed)
Subject: Re: An Enigma 
Reply-To: jackr@thorodin.dazixco.ingr.com
Organization: Dazix
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 22:29:54 GMT

In article <1992Jul23.183127.21753@meiko.com>, davol@zosmameiko.co.uk (David Wilson) writes:

[post deleted]

> It's a sobering thought to be able to place this humble 
> offering at the feet of the world's VW technical elite. 
> 
> 
> In tremulous anticipation, 
> 
> Dave Wilson              --              davol@uk.co.meiko

Well, with a build up like that, how can I let it go by...

Four things come to mind as the cause of the engine's problems. One, that
whatever additive was used in the gasoline tended to clog the filter over time,
although I'm not aware of any brand of gasoline that specifically causes this
.
The second cause, if you can believe the manufacturers claims of cleaning the
fuel system, is that accumulated buildup was being dissolved by the additive
where it became ensconsed in the filter. Since the fuel filter is typically
located between the tank and the engine, it would seem that the buildup
would then have originated in the tank and lines. 

The thought occurs though that the problem would tend to resolve itself over
time, since with repeated usage, accumulations from other gasolines would be
removed from the system and the problem would go away. This would only have
occured in the case that you went with the "no problem" gasoline exclusively,
which according to your post you did not.

A third possibility was that the gas also tended to remove deposits from the
tanks it was stored in, which would then be deposited in _your_ tank and
eventually your filter.

A fourth possibility was that the gas actually had a lower vapor pressure than
other brands and would "vapor-lock" under high temperature, long run time
conditions more often than other brands. But replacing the filter wouldn't 
have any affect on the engine if that were the case. The symptoms you describe
are typical of "vapor-locked" engines, let them cool off and drive away. I
suppose it's possible that replacing the filter had more of a "placebo" effect
in that you had already diluted the gasoline down to the point that the engine
would have run fine without replacing the filter, the two events just seemed to
coincide.

All of the above is just theorizing, though. 

It would have been worthwhile to have taken one of the "treated" filters and
cut it open with a hacksaw to determine the type of deposits that were causing
it to become constricted.

Got that guys number in Norway? 8)

I'll post other thoughts as they occur.

Jack
From: maestro@marble.rain.com (Pat Young)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Advice on purchasing a used Rabbit. 
Distribution: world
Date: 30 Jul 92 17:33:33 PST
Organization: Miniscule..

Greetings, all.

I am looking to retire my 1975 Valiantmobile in favor of a Rabbit. I'd like
some advice on what to look for when buying one. I am not interested in a
diesel Rabbit, and I'd like to get one that is fuel injected.  I have
approx. $1000 cash (well, I can get more, but then I'll have to wait ;-(
).  Since all of my friends locally have nothing good to say about VW's, I
thought I'd turn to the net for advice.
 
Thanks in advance!!
 
Pat Young - maestro@marble.rain.com
--
       Signature under construction.....

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: eliot@lanmola.engr.washington.edu (eliot)
Subject: Re: Cracked headlight help
Organization: skulls 'r us
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 17:51:25 GMT


Try calling one of the windshield repair places.  I had something similar
happen to my Audi and a windshield repair place put a patch over it.
It doesn't look pretty, but it keeps the moisture out.  Best of all,
insurance paid for everything.. didn't even need a deductible.  If you
want to replace your headlight, check with your insurance co. as well.

eliot
From: ges@stiatl.salestech.com (Gerald Sullivan)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Corrado wheels
Date: 25 Jul 92 00:39:49 GMT
Organization: Sales Technologies, Inc.

kirstein@bohemia.metronet.org (Dale Kirstein) writes:

>I found that the stock wheels do bend a bit easily. Luckily , there is a
>shop in Denver that straightens them (at about $60 a pop!). However, I 
>needed a second set of wheels for Solo 2 racing. I found a set of 4 wheels
>made by progressive (alloy, that is), stock size and offset, for $60 each.
>Thats 4 wheels for less than the price of one stock wheel. I only use them
>for racing, so I cant comment on their trueness or quality, but they
>sure were cheap!.

Where can these wheels be obtained?

I have had many problems with bent wheels (vw, not BBS) on my '90 Corrado. 
I have has a couple of the straightened for $80. They soon were bent again.
I currently have 4 bent wheels.  I have given up fixing them unless 
they cause the tire to leak.  I have never bent wheels on other VW's that I
have driven over the last 12 years. I keep my tires inflated (44lbs f,39lbs r). 
Are these wheels exremely fragile or am I abusing them?
-- 
___________________________________________________________________
Jerry Sullivan, Sales Technologies, Inc.  Atlanta,GA 
ges@salestech.com,...uupsi!stiatl!ges I don't speak for my employer.
Just say no to Republicrats, vote Libertarian.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: don@vestek.com (Don Labutay)
Subject: Re: Bumper sticker
Organization: Vestek Systems
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 92 00:03:11 GMT

In article <1992Jul30.195319.5716@infonode.ingr.com> jackr@thorodin.dazixco.ingr.com writes:
>In article <0cqf02oC1cnq01@JUTS.ccc.amdahl.com>, dld80@ccc.amdahl.com (Don Dusza) writes:
>> I saw one on a '74-'75 Super Beetle here in Sunnyvale.  If anyone can find a
>> source and a price, I want one (wife won't let me put it on the Jetta though).
>
>Put me down for one also.
>
>Jack

The place where I saw this bumper sticker was at Haight street in S.F.
The guy was selling it in the streets.  If I find that guy again, I'll
get some.

don

From: ryszard@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (Ryszard Chojnacki)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1992 22:18:25 GMT
Subject: Re: GEEEEEZ- Jetta broken into 5th time
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw

In rec.autos.vw, tgpt_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Tom Guptill) writes:


    How about replacing that "Jetta" emblem on your car with a "Jetta Diesel"
    emblem?  :-)

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: ilh@lcs.mit.edu (Lee Hetherington)
Subject: Re: tire recommendation wanted
Reply-To: ilh@lcs.mit.edu
Organization: MIT/LCS Spoken Language Systems
Distribution: rec
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 14:35:28 GMT

Any comments on the Sumitomo HTR4?
--

--Lee Hetherington
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: hammon@rtsg.mot.com (Bruce E. Hammon)
Subject: Audi 4000S Knock Sensor Indicator Light
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 14:28:36 GMT

Here are my symptoms:

1. With RPMs between 2500 and 3000,
   the engine light (knock sensor indicator light) comes comes on.
2. When light is on, the engine hesitates while accelerating, but seems
   to run fine while cruising at a constant speed.
3. Seems to occur more often as temperature and humidity increase.
   I have not seen it occur under 65 degrees.
4. Occurs both when engine is cold, and warm.
5. Does not seem to occur if accelerating through this RPM range.
6. Only way to reset is to cycle the ignition.

Has anyone seen similar problems?
Any ideas?
-- 
============================================================================
| Bruce Hammon                     | Internet: bruceh%isdgsm@rtsg.mot.com  |
| Motorola, Inc.                   | UUCP:     uunet!motcid!isdgsm!bruceh  |
| Intl Cellular Subscriber Group   |                                       |
From: Ralph.C.Lindenfeld@dartmouth.edu (Ralph C. Lindenfeld)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: VW Panelvan Parts wanted
Date: 28 Jul 92 13:59:08 GMT
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH

Hi-
    I figured out the engine problems on my panelvan.. now I'm looking
for some rims (the guy before me put on mags *ugh*) and a directional
assembly. Anyone?

RL
From: nicos@csa.bu.edu (Nicos Kontopoulos)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: VW club of America
Date: 29 Jul 92 18:24:54 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Computer Science Department, Boston University, Boston, MA, USA
Originator: nicos@csa


I saw a "VW club of America" sticker on a Jetta the other day.

Are they active? What kind of events do they have?

Please give some info. I'll post a summary if there is interest...

Please include contact info (phone # or address) preferably in the
New england area.



Thanks in advance,

-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
   Nicos Kontopoulos                             Voice: (617) 787-1780
   INTERnet: nicos@cs.bu.edu                    BITnet: ecolpqc@buacca
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Xref: sparky rec.autos.vw:4403 rec.autos.driving:4666 rec.autos:18679
From: kats@innerdoor.austin.ibm.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw,rec.autos.driving,rec.autos
Subject: Need advice on hauling
Date: 28 Jul 92 20:43:48 GMT
Reply-To: kats.innerdoor.austin.ibm.com
Distribution: usa
Organization: IBM AWD, Austin, TX



 I will be driving to Miami from Ausint by first week fo August.
 My car is a 90 VW Jetta GL ( 29,000 miles ). I am planning to haul 
 about 800 lbs (household stuff) using a small U-Hall's trailer ( 4'x6').  
 Will that be too much strain on the engine and the transmission. 
 ( VW hand book says a maximum of load of 1000 lbs and 150 lbs 
 tongue weight). Can I protect the engine wear by using Slick-50 etc?

 I have never driven a car with a tailer attached. How does hauling 
 affect the driving, especially on a highway? Like passing, visiblity 
 etc. 

 Also are there any freight servives that accept only a 
 a few boxes ( Other than UPS ) that exceed the 130"/70 lb
 limitation of UPS.

 Your suggestions and pointers from  similar experiences are welcome. 


 Thanks.

 kats.

--------------------------------------------------------------------

 e-mail : kats@innerdoor.austin.ibm.com

---------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw,rec.autos.tech
From: ppa@col.hp.com (Paul Austgen)
Subject: Re: Audi fuel pump??
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 20:23:30 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division

There is an output diagnostic sequence that you start with a
short circuit over the fuel pump relay.  It will check the fuel
pump, cold start valve, etc.  It would seem to me that the cold
start valve would be the easiest and safest point to check for
fuel delivery.  I don't know how this sequence works for
non-turbo's.  It varies with engine types and years.