HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: goddard+@cs.cmu.edu (Nigel Goddard)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: suggested weapons (was: Killing burglars.)
Date: 1 Sep 92 15:35:55 GMT
Article-I.D.: cs.Btwonv.GHw.2
Organization: School of Computer Science, Carnegie Mellon

In article <1992Sep1.145552.22352@elroy.jpl.nasa.gov> sns@bondi.jpl.nasa.gov (Sam Southard) writes:
>>>> So, what specific weapons and ammo do you folks recommend for home 
>>>> protection?  Assume it's for an adult..
>
>This seems quite relevant to misc.consumers.house.  Someone has asked "what's
>the best gun I can by [there's .consumers.] to protect my house [there's
>.house]?"  What else does it need to qualify for misc.consumers.house?

In the same vein, can someone tell me the best type and arrangement of
crystals to get to protect my house from burglars?  There is a huge
choice out there.  We have two kids, so I don't want anything that
concentrates energy in the 1-3ft height range.  Preferably the
spectrum should dissipate at no more than 12 ft. from source to avoid
zapping passers-by on the sidewalk.  I've been considering agates
but have heard these have an unbalanced frequency distribution.  Can
someone comment on this?

Another difficult problem is spatial placement of the crystals.  Of
course it depends on just which minerals and cuts are used, but the
general outline is what I want to know about.  I've read that the
hexagonal tri-phased vector layout is the most powerful, but my
question is, does it work in a two storey house?

Nigel Goddard
-- 
Nigel Goddard
goddard@b.gp.cs.cmu.edu
From: smb@ulysses.att.com (Steven Bellovin)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: It looks like carpenter ants...
Date: 29 Aug 92 01:06:52 GMT

In article <1992Aug28.195343.7381@primerd.prime.com>, mguyott@eriador.prime.com (M. Guyott) writes:
> Does this mean that the only damage they will cause is to wood that is
> already water damaged?

No, 'fraid not.  For example, in our previous house we had a nest
of them inside a closet door.  *Not* a place likely to be wet....
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: paigen@tfs.com (David Paigen)
Subject: Re: Killing burglars.
Organization: TRW Financial Systems
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 19:37:32 GMT

sns@bondi.jpl.nasa.gov (Sam Southard) writes:

[responding to me responding to him]

>Did you read what I wrote?  Or did you simply react to what you wanted to
>hear?  In the very same post I mentioned the conditions under which I would
>shoot the person and how I would try to prevent having to shoot the person.
>Those included him ignoring a command to "Freeze" or making some other type of
>threatening motion.  It appears we agree, so why are you objecting to what I
>said?

Yes, I read what you wrote.  Carefully, even.  In your article you mention
(once) something about "freeze."  Once you mention that you would shoot
without waiting for evidence of intent to do harm (for example, a weapon).
Once you mention that you would shoot at first sight.

I am objecting to what you said because you advocate striking without
evidence of threat based on "worst-case scenarios."  By that reasoning,
all of my ex-girlfriends should blow me away because I might come after
them.  Or the Space Shuttle should never have been built because
someone could die.

I believe that it was you (although the article has expired :-( ) who
advocated shooting an intruder in the back.  Such a situation does not
require an autopsy to reealize that the intruder could not have been
a threat at the time of the shooting.  They knew that back in the Old
West :-)

>Go back and read my post.  There is a very high chance that he will be able to
>present this evidence.  However, any evidence whatsoever that he will remain
>hostile will cause him to be shot dead.

I went back and read your post.  Twice you said that you would shoot first,
ask questions later.  Once you said that your would command the intruder
to freeze.  That makes 66% dead, 33% alive, hardly, "a very high chance
that he will be able to present his evidence."
From: weiss@hatteras.cs.unc.edu (Steve Weiss)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Super air filter (?)
Date: 1 Sep 92 17:41:06 GMT

Riding in to work today I heard a commercial for a super air filter 
for a furnace that's supposed to be many times more effective than 
the throw-away fiberglass filters.   Plus it is reusable.  Has anybody 
had any experience with these filters?  Are they really more 
effective.  And are they worth the money?

Thanks

Steve Weiss
UNC-CH

`
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Telephone Outlets
From: gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston)
Date: Thu, 03 Sep 92 19:48:30 CDT
Organization: Garys' Home for Obsolete Computers

egreen@east.sun.com (Ed Green - Pixel Cruncher) writes:

> In article 5443@naucse.cse.nau.edu, rrw@elden (Robert Wier) writes:
> 
> >   Being
> > in a somewhat rural location perhaps helps also (not too many houses
> > within a half mile or so).
> 
> Half mile?!?  The phone itself has a range of ~1000 ft.  How can a
> snooper pick up the signal past where it's too weak for the phone to?

Simple. The phone only has a 1000' range because that's as far as
the cheapo receiver in the base unit can pick it up with that little
whip antenna. Anyone using a more sensitive receiver, better antenna,
antenna amplifier, or combination of these can easily double or
triple the reception range. With a stated range of 1000', you need a
receiver that's 4 times as sensitive as the base to pick it up at
2000', or 16 times better for 4000'. Directional antennas can make
amazing differences in the range, too.

Gary Heston, at home....
gary@cdthq.uucp
From: macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Painting Garage Floor
Date: 26 Aug 92 16:29:18 GMT
Organization: OSF Research Institute

In article <1992Aug25.174501.9993@ncrcae.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM> cooper@endeavor.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM (Bob Cooper x7429) writes:

   I just bought a 15 year old house with a 2 car garage.  I want to paint
   the floor with (I guess) an glossy epoxy paint.  Any suggestions or
   problems?

It depends on how humid the current floor is.  If it is bone-dry, you
can use epoxy or polyurethane-reinforced floor paint (California is a
good brand, but I don't think it's distributed outside New England).
You don't really need to go to two-component epoxy.

If on the other hand it is humid -- especially if it is below grade --
you should use a paint that `breathes', otherwise the hydrostatic
pressure will lift it off.  There are latex floor paints for this.  Go
with a good manufacturer, e.g. California or Pratt and Lambert.

	-s
From: d3a132@pnl.gov (Carl P Baker)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Dryer ventillation problem
Date: 28 Aug 92 18:20:38 GMT
Article-I.D.: oracle.1992Aug28.182038.17252
Reply-To: d3a132@pnl.gov
Organization: Battelle Pacific Northwest Laboratories

You could install a blast gate in the dryer vent hose.  You'd have
to remember to open it when you ran the dryer.  Or you could set it
up with a relay to detect when the dryer was drawing current, and
open automagically.  Blast gates can be gotten at tool catalogs
that sell dust collection equipment (Grizzly is one such).  The
electronics for the automagic option could  be got at Radio Shriek.

My vent fan for my bathroom has a one way flapper valve in it that
would be about the right size for a dryer.  A cheap vent fan can be
got for about $10.

-- carl

Carl P Baker
cp_baker@pnl.gov
509-375-2724

Disclaimer: I am not the official spokesperson for anyone.  For which
organizations that use spokespersons are profoundly grateful.
From: jhp@sactoh0.sac.ca.us (Jim H. Puga)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Ceiling problems when installing new drywall
Date: 24 Aug 92 02:10:47 GMT
Reply-To: jhp@sactoh0.SAC.CA.US (Jim H. Puga)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Sacramento Public Access Unix, Sacramento, Ca.

I'm going to be tearing out the walls in a house and installing new
sheetrock.  The ceiling is staying and this is where the big question
comes in.

How do I tape the corners when the ceiling already has texture on it?

When I tape, the current texture on the ceiling is going to present a
problem(lumpy tape, won't adhere, etc).  How do I get around this
problem?  I'm going to retexture the ceiling so doing anything to the
ceiling isn't a problem.  I'm worried about the tape and feathering of
the joint compound not working on the ceiling.

Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks, in advance.

-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------
- jhp@sactoh0.SAC.CA.US    What else can I say?             -
-------------------------------------------------------------
Xref: sparky misc.consumers.house:11816 misc.consumers:16084
From: tmkk@uiuc.edu (Khan)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,misc.consumers
Subject: Re: Credit report
Date: 3 Sep 92 18:44:13 GMT
Article-I.D.: news.Bu0Mps.7Hp
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana


Someone said:

>>You're forgetting one thing:  TRW is [giving out free credit reports] out
>>of the goodness of their hearts.

BAH.

TRW is doing it because they are SCARED. They're scared that some
effective privacy legislation will actually be passed sometime soon, and
so they are adopting the Nice Guy facade in an effort to lessen the
chances that some serious regulation will come into effect and screw up
their cushy position. They figure that by giving a few baubles to the
public they can later say to legislators "see? We're nice guys who are
concerned about the consumer! You don't need to regulate sweet little
old US..."

If any legislators fall for it, we're in serious trouble.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis)
Subject: Re: questions about MOLDINGS?
Organization: OSF Research Institute
	<1992Aug28.181614.17163@oracle.pnl.gov>
	<1992Aug31.235658.22429@news.arc.nasa.gov>
Date: 1 Sep 92 12:01:02

In article <1992Aug31.235658.22429@news.arc.nasa.gov> doshay@ursa.arc.nasa.gov (David Doshay) writes:

   ...I would cope [inside corners]. As the wood expands and shrinks,
   it will look better.

I agree.

   You can buy a tool comprised of lots of long thin rods to get the
   shape of the moulding for transfer to the other piece.

You could do this, or use an old carpenter's trick: miter the piece at
45 degrees, then use the cut edge as a guide for coping.  Fast and
precise.

	-s
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,misc.consumers
From: msingh@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (The Supreme Commander)
Subject: Re: Credit report
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 14:53:10 GMT

USA Today reported (apparently):

>   You can get a copy of your credit report once a year from TRW by
>    writing to TRW Consumer Assistance, POB 2350, Chatsworth, CA
>    91313-2350.  Include all of the following: full name including
>    middle initial and generation such as Jr, Sr, III; current address
>    and ZIP code; previous addresses and ZIPs for past five years;
>    Social Security number; year of birth; spouse's first name.
>    Include a photocopy of a billing statement, utility bill, driver's
>    license, or other document that links your name with the address
>    where the report should be mailed.


I would be very hesitant to provide all of this information. Providing
all that information will make it just that much easier for them to
"update" their information on you. IMHO credit agencies have no right
to keep all this information on me!

If you want to obtain a report, your full name and social security
number is all you need. USA today seems to be encouraging one to
contact TRW and make it easy for TRW to "create" or "update" your
report at the same time. Only a fool would make a copy of their
driver's license or some sort of bill. If they want proof of address,
send them the envelope someone sent you.



				...Manu

-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------
The Supreme Commander wishes you a Supreme day. 
I'm a Magic Man, oooh, I got the magic hands, yeah...
Don't mind me, I'm just attempting to dock.
From: egreen@east.sun.com (Ed Green - Pixel Cruncher)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Telephone Outlets
Date: 1 Sep 1992 17:59:38 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, RTP, NC
Distribution: world
Reply-To: egreen@east.sun.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: laser.east.sun.com

In article 5443@naucse.cse.nau.edu, rrw@elden (Robert Wier) writes:

>   Being
> in a somewhat rural location perhaps helps also (not too many houses
> within a half mile or so).

Half mile?!?  The phone itself has a range of ~1000 ft.  How can a
snooper pick up the signal past where it's too weak for the phone to?

---
Ed Green, former Ninjaite |I was drinking last night with a biker,
  Ed.Green@East.Sun.COM   |and I showed him a picture of you.  I said,
DoD #0111  (919)460-8302  |"Go on, get to know her, you'll like her!"
 (The Grateful Dead) -->  |It seemed like the least I could do...
From: laird@stable.ecn.purdue.edu (Kyler Laird)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Can/Should I talk to the owners?
Date: 31 Aug 92 15:17:05 GMT
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network

My wife and I have been looking for a house since April.  We have not
found any that we like, but have found some land (10A) that is in an
ideal location and is perfect for us.

Problem:  the land is being sold/managed by Bank One.  I'm not quite
sure what the specifics are, but I think it's a trust.  Essentially,
the bank is managing it for some sisters who are willing to sell it,
but don't need the money.  (It's been on the market for >2 years.)

I went to the bank again this morning to find out who the sisters
are so that I could talk with them about financing the purchase.
(We've found that getting a loan for land only is next to impossible.)
The manager said that he could not give out the names, and that they
have no interest in anything but a cash sale.

I suspect his motives - he gets paid to manage the land, right?  I'd
still like to talk to the owners.  It seems to me that if they don't
use the land (They rent ~3 acres of it for grain farming.) they'd
rather get payments from me than pay taxes and management fees to the
bank.

So...what do you think?  Should I try to find the owners?  If so,
what's the best route?  (I was thinking of plat maps, the county
assessor and surveyor, and neighbors.)  I figure I have little to
lose, but I don't want to botch things.

Thanks!

--kyler

P.S.  If anyone has pointers on getting a loan for land only, please
tell me.  Yes, we do plan on building a house on it soon, but if I can
just put up a work/storage shed on it for now I'll be delighted.
Xref: sparky misc.consumers.house:11689 misc.consumers:15924
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: <none>
From: byron@homer.hsc.ucalgary.ca (Byron Draudson)
Date: 26 Aug 92 14:56:18 MDT
Reply-To: byron@yogi.hsc.ucalgary.ca
Distribution: world
Organization: Radiology, Foothills Hospital
Keywords: PLUMBING: Fixing ABS leak... 

Hi.  My father-in-law, a do-it-yourself-er, installed some ABS pipe
in my basement from my washing machine to the main pipe to the sewer
system.  It's all done correctly with a trap etc., but a couple of
joints have developed small leaks.  What is the proper way to "break"
the glued joint and rejoin it so that it will not leak?

-- byron
________________________________________________________________________
Byron Draudson, Systems Manager               byron@yogi.hsc.ucalgary.ca
Radiology, Foothills Hospital, Calgary, Alberta, Canada   (403) 670-2442
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: trb@cbnews.cb.att.com (tom.balent)
Subject: Re: wood floor or carpet?
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 10:59:25 GMT

In article <1992Aug27.030945.19449@msuinfo.cl.msu.edu> 21329KAD@MSU (Kim Dyer) writes:

I don't want to start a flame war, but...

>Carpet is easier to care for then hardwood, 

I do not think that wood is hard to care for. A quick go over with a
broom is all that is needed once in a while. While with carpet you have
to lug out your vacuum and run it over and over the whole room. And 
don't forget having Stanley Steamer come in and shampoo (or doit
yourself). And what about spills on a carpet? Or what about when you
come home after a big drunk and hurl chunks in the livingroom (don't
you hate it that happens?)

>and warmer on bare feet.

That is why god invented throw rugs and slippers...



Just kidding.  It is just that I have heard these objections to
wood floors before and I don't buy them. I have wood floors in my
house and I do not feel that I have more mainteance because of it
(if fact I personally fee I have less) and, unless you have a very
poorly insulated house, wood floors are not ice skating rinks to the
feet (sure they are colder than a carpet).

tom
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: wpns@miki.pictel.com (Willie Smith)
Subject: Re: Painting Garage Floor
Organization: PictureTel Corporation
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 17:19:15 GMT

In article <1992Aug26.184712.10859@news.weeg.uiowa.edu> brokaw@flamingo.weeg.uiowa.edu (Pete Brokaw) writes:
>I've always heard that painting the garage floor is a bad idea because it
>will be very slippery when wet.

When painting a garage floor or other such surface, you are supposed
to add an abrasive (sand-like stuff, dunno if real sand works) to the
mix to provide some traction.  Ask your local hardware store folks or
check boating supply places.

Willie Smith
wpns@pictel.com
From: maslak@unix.SRI.COM (Valerie Maslak)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: what to do about hideous tub
Date: 4 Sep 92 00:08:46 GMT
Organization: SRI International, Menlo Park, California


We found a product at the hardware store called Eliminate(or
Elimin8) that does a WONDERFUL job, is nontoxic, and isn't an acid.
Look for it.

Valerie Maslak
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: janick@bcrkd13.bnr.ca (Janick Bergeron)
Subject: How to deal with less-than-convenient neighbors ?
Reply-To: janick@bnr.ca
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Timing Verification Group
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 18:02:07 GMT

I think I'm a reasonable person. If I do something that annoys my
neighbors, I sure hope they are going to tell me and I'll be glad
to stop/decrease their source of annoyance.


             | Da | / Db         Mine has just parked a car with
             |    |/    /        a "4 SALE" sign in the window perpen-
-------------/         /         cular to the curb. It does not block
                     CC|         the street since we are on a circle
                       -------   off the 90 degree turn nor is it blocking
  Street                 Dc      his driveway but it is sure as hell
                                 obtructing mine! (The "CC" on the map
------------|          -------   on the left marks the location of the car.
            |          |         My driveway is marked "Db"). It's a double
            |  Street  |         driveway so I have room to maneuver around
                                 but...

How do I break the news to this jerk (who also blows his snow into the
street all winter long!) that the car has been obstructing 20% of my
driveway for a week now (Have I been patient enough?) ? I don't want
to piss him off: I hate to live next to someone who's pissed of at me
for no good reason (like my last neighbor :-(. Or am I the
self-righteous jerk and should I just put up with it until the car is
sold (but this is a quiet residential street, why on earth would it
help advertise it this way?).

I wish he'd be as great as the guy on the right (the "Da" driveway)!

Thanks. Please reply via email.
--
Janick Bergeron    Bell-Northern Research, Ltd       Ph.: (613) 763-5457
System Timing   P.O. Box 3511, Station C, Stop 049   Fax: (613) 763-7241
Verification     Ottawa, Ontario, Canada, K1Y 4H7  email:  janick@bnr.ca 
library quote; use quote.funny;                  use std.disclaimer.all;
From: greg@netcom.com (Greg Bullough)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Little brown bugs
Date: 3 Sep 92 16:01:29 GMT
Article-I.D.: netcom.#tlny7l.greg
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest)

In article <1992Sep3.073613.1%rtsmv1.decnet@edwards-vax.af.mil> joffe%rtsmv1.decnet@edwards-vax.af.mil writes:
>
>	We are having a problem with little brown bugs that invade rice,
>flower, cereal, and any kind of grain products.  Does anyone have experience
>with these?

Just about everyone, I imagine. You bring them home from the grocery store.

>	Is there an organic method of getting rid of these?  If not, what would
>be the best kind of pesticide to use?
 
Yes, there is. First, get rid of non-airtight containers. I went to a hardware
store and got a bunch of seal/clamp Mason jars for flour and stuff, and I use
canning jars for smaller stuff. Inexpensive, and attractive in their honest
simplicity. Tupperware is another alternative, of course. The idea is to confine
them in whatever they arrived in, and keep them from getting into EVERYTHING.
They seem to be able to gnaw their way through some packaging, like the paper
and foil packages that the sauce mixes for pre-packaged foods come in.
 
Clean out the cupboards, using soap and water to remove all trace of food for
the critters. As you noted they like grains, 'cause they live in their food, 
unlike ants, which like to take sugar home with them.
 
Isolate them from the food supply, and you'll have no further problems.
 
A whole bay leaf in the bottom of the flour jar seems to discourage them
as well.
 
Since taking this approach, my kitchen has been bug-free.

Greg
From: myjak@titan.ksc.nasa.gov (Michael D. Myjak)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Painting Garage Floor
Date: 27 Aug 92 15:30:01 EST
Distribution: usa
Organization: NASA, Kennedy Space Center

> cooper@endeavor.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM (Bob Cooper x7429) writes:
> 
>    I just bought a 15 year old house with a 2 car garage.  I
>    want to paint the floor with (I guess) an glossy epoxy paint.
>    Any suggestions or problems?
-- 

This is *almost* a pointless followup... because I cannot remember the
brand of the paint I used... Last month I just went into Home Depot
and asked the sales critter what he recommended for a garage floor
application. (I too thought an epoxy or masonary stain would do but I
was corrected, especially if I wanted a warranty!) He recommended a
Latex based paint (!) specifically designed for garage floors and
driveways.  Apparently, as mentioned earlier by another poster, the
weight of the car tires can cause problems with the paints adhesion.

Ok, so heres what I did... after washing the floor with soap and
water, I applied a solution of muriatic acid as per the directions. I
believe the mixture I used was 1 part acid to 4 parts water.  Anyway,
I washed that off after the cement after it developed a "frosted" look
and then let the floor dry for at least a day before painting it.

In all, I put down three coats of paint. The first coat was done
Saturday afternoon and diluted with a quart of water per gallon of
paint. On Sunday I put down two more coats at full strength and about
4-hours apart. Its important to roll out each coat perpendicular to
each other so that there is no visible line. Also, you need to keep a
wet edge when painting... just like with any surface. The floor was
dry for foot traffic in a day and could be used for car traffic in
three days. What can I say? I've been pleased. 

- Michael D. Myjak			
  Senior Technical Specialist, Systems Analyst
  McDonnell Douglas Space Systems Company - KSC
  MYJAK@TITAN.KSC.NASA.GOV

Fea'ture N.  Distinction; Characteristic; Perculiarity (!)
             A bug with documentation.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house