HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: bwilliam@oyster.smcm.edu (Bill Williams)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Refinancing Costs Tax-Deductible?
Date: 14 Dec 92 15:30:30 GMT
Organization: St. Mary's College of Maryland
X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1.1d13
X-XXMessage-ID: <A752130EF50201D2@williams.smcm.edu>
X-XXDate: Mon, 14 Dec 92 15:31:42 GMT

In article <88263@bcsaic.boeing.com> Jim Tanner,
tanner@bcsaic.boeing.com writes:
>Yes, it's the points, and they are only deductible ratably over the
life
>of the loan.  E.g., if you paid $3,000 in points for a 30-year loan,
you
>can deduct $3,000/30 = $100 each year.  However, if you pay off the
loan
>early (refinance again, or sell the house) you deduct all the
remainder
>in that year.

Actually, that's not quite the way I read it, nor is it how I deducted
it on my tax return last year.  As I recall (don't have the
documentation right here), there are two kinds of points: "loan
origination fee" points and some other kind of points that are more
clearly interest paid in advance. The origination fee must be amortized
over the life of the loan (presumably in equal payments), but points
that can be clearly identified as advanced interest payments can be
deducted immediately. I think other expenses such as surveys,
appraisals, well tests, etc., are not deductible at all.

  This is not legal advice, blah, blah, blah.  There.  Now it IS legal
advice.  Or something. At least maybe it's not ILLEGAL advice?  Oh, I
give up -- read it if you want, but don't blame me!
___________________________________
William E. Williams, bwilliam@oyster.smcm.edu
Divison of Natural Sciences and Mathematics
St. Mary's College of Maryland
St. Mary's City, MD 20686
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: shuju@morocco.tv.tek.com (Shu-Ju Wang)
Subject: follow up on American Blind and Wallpaper Factory
Originator: shuju@morocco.tv.tek.com
Organization: Tektronix TV Products
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 20:19:13 GMT


I posted this about 3 weeks ago:

>A while ago, a couple of posters recommended a mail order place, American
>Blind and Wallpaper Factory, for, what else, blinds and wallpapers.  I decided
>to give them a try, and now I'm singing The Valance Blues.

...history of questionable quality merchandize deleted...

>Yeah, I'm pretty frustrated.  I don't know if they sell factory seconds, or
>>if there is a quality control problem.  I am making one last effort to have 
>this corrected.  

On Dec. 16th, I received my 4th set of valances, drum roll please..., which
are the correct length AND color.  This is 3 months after I placed the order.

Again, most of the phone representatives have been helpful.  I probably
would not order from them again, though, just to avoid all this frustration.

Shu-Ju 
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: evad@fnali.fnal.gov (The Living are just the Dead on holiday--from Dr. Who)
Subject: need rec on home alarms
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.4-a4  
Reply-To: evad@fnali.fnal.gov
Organization: Fermilab - CDF
Distribution:  world
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 17:39:37 GMT

I just moved into a ground floor apartment and would
like to install a burglar alarm system. ANy recommendations
on a home alarm. I know Radio Shack sells one and I think
there are least a coulple other models out there. 
	PLease E-mail to evad@fnald.fnal.gov as I don't always 
get a chance to read this group. 
				dave
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: bobw@gdstech.GRUMMAN.COM (Bob Waffenschmidt)
Subject: Quick build homes and additions
Organization: Grumman Corporation
Distribution: misc.consumers.house
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 22:32:42 GMT

I have been looking for a home for several months. On occasion I see a
home which is smaller than I would eventually like but is on a reasonable plot of
land to build an addition or even a second house.

I would like to know the actual cost of purchasing a factory built
home and home components and also homes put together on site.

Can anyone give me the names, numbers and addresses of the
manufacturers and vendors of these products. 

I am currently looking in an area where larger homes cost can cost
$300k.  So if I can buy a fixerupper in the $170K range and sink 50K -70k
more into it WHEN I NEED more space (and have more money) this seems
like a good deal.  

Since I like nailed down questions:
How much would it cost to build 1000 sq feet of living space?

Sonny Bloch in his book "Inside Real-Estate" says the cost is roughly
$35/sq ft. Sound to good to be true in Nassau County N.Y.!
 
Please, send a copy of your replies directly to me as I am not a
constant reader of this group.

Thanks in advance

Bob
From: cnrdean@toxic (Sam Scalise)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Water Pressure Regulators
Date: 20 Dec 1992 02:00:32 GMT
Organization: U.C. College of Natural Resources
NNTP-Posting-Host: toxic.berkeley.edu

It was good timing for me that this subject came up.  I am about to
install a water regulator.  At this time, there is a regulator on part
of my water supply, specifically the branch that includes the water
heater. I would guess that it was installed to stop the relief valve
from popping.  It is installed underneath the house, on (as I said) one
branch of the water supply.

But, I am about to install a sprinkler system in the front yard, and
don't want all of my valves cracking, so i'm going to put a regulator
in this (new) line.

Questions:  Is there any reason not to put the regulator on the entire
supply?  Is it OK to put the regulator outside the house?  Can the
regulator be located before my cutoff valve?  Does the regulator have
to be in any specific position (eg. is there a top and bottom)?

Thanks.  
Sam Scalise
From: sukenick@sci.ccny.cuny.edu (SYG)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Air valves for steam radiators
Date: 20 Dec 92 17:47:08 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: City College of New York - Science Computing Facility

>>something is wrong with your system.  The hissing sound is normal.

If it is a lot of hissing, or if steam is coming out,  something
is wrong.

It could be:
1) incorrect anticipation setting for thermostat
2) thermostat problem (anticipator broken,  too much hysterisis in
    thermostat
3) incorrect valve rating for radiator
4) defective valve

If most of the radiators are hissing a lot,  I'll bet it's
1) or 2).    If it's just a couple of radiators,  try
a valve with a smaller rating (i.e. if it's rated "C",  try
"B")  In general,  radiators require from "A" (closest to
heating system) to "D"  furthest from system.  The variable
valves are useful,  but the range is not great as they indicate (IMHO).
(These things can also be rated with numbers, but II don't know that
system)

>deposits. Unscrew the valve and  soak it in a bowl of warm
>vinegar for half an hour. This is a 10 cent solution to your problem.

A new valve is from $5 to $15 (or more).

>maintenance man suggested purging the [boiler] valve once every two weeks.
>It's best to develop a habit of doing this.

When the boiler is relatively cool,  l'll open the valve
and replace water until it runs clear,  about once every 3 months
in the heating season.  Just always make sure that you've added
enough water when finished;  check again when hot!
From: stan.protigal%phant@hpbs938.boi.hp.com (Stan Protigal) 
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: garage door openers
Date: 14 Dec 92 20:11:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Phantasia BBS - Boise, ID - 208-939-1350
Reply-To: stan.protigal%phant@hpbs938.boi.hp.com (Stan Protigal) 

SS> My question:
SS> I already have 1 garage opener, a Sears.  I would like to have
  > 2 garage door opener transmitters which could each open either
  > of my 2 garage doors.  Do these dual control...

That's easy.  You can set your code with a plurality of DIP
switches.  (Check inside the transmitter.  Some Stanleys have
hardwired switches, but the result is the same.)  Simply switch one
OFF or open, and install an external switch in parallel.  Set door
A with that bit open and door B with that bit closed; the rest of
the switches the same.

Of course you have to match transmitter frequencies, which probably
means the same brand.
---
 . from Boise!  55/65.  It's not a good idea; just the law.
                                                               
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: alexg@austin.ibm.com ()
Subject: Re: variable rate mortgage
Originator: alexg@madrid.austin.ibm.com
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 21:30:21 GMT
Reply-To: alexg@austin.ibm.com
Organization: IBM Austin


In the areas with the home prices under $128K (which is the FHA loans limit)
another good alternative is FHA ARM. The initial rate is about 1/4 % higher
than conventional, but the lifetime cap is 5% and one year cap is 1% (com-
pare to 6% and 2% accordingly for conventinal).

- Alex Gurevich
From: ehsan@attila.weitek.COM (Ehsan Kalami)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Installing Rain gutters question
Date: 11 Dec 92 21:03:43 GMT
Reply-To: ehsan@attila.UUCP ()
Organization: WEITEK, Sunnyvale CA

Hi, I was wondering if anybody on the net has had experience installing
Vinyl gutters. The problem I have is that my house does not have facia
boards, and shingles donot overhang the roof by much. so I do not think
I have room to add the facia boards. Since the studs are not spaced such that
one can interconnect to 10' gutters, I was wondering whether I need to cut
them fot proper spacing.  
thanks
ehsan
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: heflin@rtsg.mot.com (Suzanne Stratton Heflin)
Subject: Re: Refinancing a home loan
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 21:48:15 GMT

li40199@prism.gatech.EDU (Ann Grusin) writes:

>This is posted for a friend.  Please respond to
>li401lh@hydra.gatech.edu.

>--------

>I refinanced my home mortgage about 2 weeks ago.  What does the
>old mortgage company usually charge when the load is paid off?  I
>haven't heard anything from them yet.

>Thanks.

>Larry Hansard

>-- 
What do you mean, what do they charge?  Haven't they charged you enough
through interest??!  Anyway, when you refinanced, your new mortgage com-
pany, as part of the closing should have paid off your old mortgage.
They did that by requesting a payoff letter from your old mortgage company,
which tells them exactly how much principal you currently (on the first of
the month that you closed) owe, as well as how much interest is charged on
that principal daily.  As an example, lets say you had approximately
$100,000 principal remaining as of Dec. 1, and your old interest rate was
10.95%.  this comes to $30 a day in interest, so if you closed on Dec. 4
(unfortunately, loans aren't usually funded until 3 business days later)
your old mortgage would be paid off on Dec. 10.  Therefore, your new
mortgage company would have paid your old mortgage company $100,300 on
Dec. 10 (principal + 10 days interest)  In the state of Illinois, at least,
there is no pre-payment penalty clause, so it is illegal to charge someone
anything to pay off the loan early.  Any way, bottom line is, It shouldn't
have cost you anything, and you should receive a "Paid in full" letter
from your old mortgage company in anywhere from 4 - 12 weeks.
>Ann Grusin, Library Systems  
>Georgia Institute of Technology, Atlanta Georgia, 30332
>ann.grusin@library.gatech.edu
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: mr@delfin.com (Mark Rosenberg)
Subject: Problem with electric water heater
Organization: Delfin Systems, Sunnyvale, CA.
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 22:13:34 GMT

My wife claims that our electric water heater does not produce as much
hot water as before. She complains of hot water running-out mid-shower
despite the fact that no hot water has been used for hours. I contend that
either the water heater heats water or it doesn't. If it works at all,
it necessarily heats the entire 50 gallon tankfull.

Is it possible to have a water heater produce only a partial tankfull of
hot water?
-- 
Mark Rosenberg
internet:mark@delfin.com
phone: (408) 562-1126	fax: (408) 748-1140
snail: Delfin Systems, 3000 Patrick Henry Drive, Santa Clara, CA 95054-1814
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Distribution: world
From: GioF@ultramac.uucp (Gio Favignano)
Organization: Odyssey Ultraware, Inc
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 05:41:49 CDT
Subject: Re: Installing Rain gutters question

>Hi, I was wondering if anybody on the net has had experience installing
>Vinyl gutters. The problem I have is that my house does not have facia
>boards, and shingles donot overhang the roof by much. so I do not think
>I have room to add the facia boards. Since the studs are not spaced such that
>one can interconnect to 10' gutters, I was wondering whether I need to cut
them fot proper spacing.  
>thanks
>ehsan

You can still attach a fascia board all you need to do is install a drip edge
under your shingles that it extends out farther, so that the water will run
into the gutter and not behind the fascia board.
Gio located in St. Louis, Mo  at GioF@oui.com

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis)
Subject: Re: anthology of home design software (2nd amendment comment)
Organization: OSF Research Institute
	<CTDONATH.92Dec14171628@mothra.syr.EDU>
	<MACRAKIS.92Dec16120648@lakatos.osf.org>
Date: 16 Dec 92 13:54:03

I apologize for posting a reply to the comment about the 2nd amendment
in Carl T. Donath's <ctdonath@mothra.syr.EDU> signature.  It was
intended as private e-mail.  I have Cancelled the article, but it
still may appear on some systems.

Kindly ignore my comments, and please do not start a discussion on
this subject on this list.

	-s
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: bglenden@colobus.cv.nrao.edu (Brian Glendenning)
Subject: How to buy a house
Organization: National Radio Astronomy Observatory
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 17:46:21 GMT


We intend to buy our (first) house in 1993. Is there a FAQ on how to
do this, or has anyone a collection of net.wisdom they can email me,
or are there books you'd recommend, etc. Thanks!

Brian
--
       Brian Glendenning - National Radio Astronomy Observatory
bglenden@nrao.edu          Charlottesville Va.           (804) 296-0286
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (patterson,george r)
Subject: Re: Ice dams
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 92 22:35:29 GMT

In article <1992Dec11.124421.5173@alw.nih.gov> sullivan@alw.nih.gov (Jim Sullivan) writes:
>I also can foresee having ice dam problems. 

>Any recommendations on what I should do?

Home Depot (and others) sells a expanded styrene foam panel that you staple
to the bottom of the roof between the joists. These trap a layer of cold
air against the roof. They're really intended to provide ventilation between
the roof and insulation in cathedral ceilings, but they ought to do the
trick for you. They're shaped like this.

    __             __
      \___________/


-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | Try to live your life so that you wouldn't be
George Patterson -  | afraid to sell the family parrot to the town
                    | gossip.
                    |                            Will Rogers
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,misc.consumers,misc.misc
From: Michael.Bohl@launchpad.unc.edu (Michael Bohl)
Subject: TV Antenna Advice NEEDED
Keywords: TV,Antenna,signal,improve
Organization: University of North Carolina Extended Bulletin Board Service
Distribution: usa
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1992 19:29:03 GMT

	We recently moved to an area with poor TV reception.  I really
hate to call the cable company and subscribe, it slays me to pay $18-$24 a
month for TV, and do not want to subscribe.  

	We only have 'rabbit ears' and they are not doing the trick.  I
need some suggestions.  Are those devices that 'turn your wiring' into an
antenna worth the expense?  Do the fancier versions of rabbit ears work. 
We live in Durham NC so we do have transmitting towers within a reasonable
distance, although we live in a ground floor apartment.  

	Thanks for your help.  

Mike B.

you can either post here, or email me at  michael.bohl@lambada.oit.unc.edu



--
   The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the University of
     North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Campus Office for Information
        Technology, or the Experimental Bulletin Board Service.
           internet:  laUNChpad.unc.edu or 152.2.22.80
From: plumpe@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Plumpe)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Problem with electric water heater
Date: 14 Dec 92 17:24:01 GMT
Reply-To: plumpe@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Plumpe)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In misc.consumers.house, mr@delfin.com (Mark Rosenberg) writes:
>My wife claims that our electric water heater does not produce as much
>hot water as before. She complains of hot water running-out mid-shower
>despite the fact that no hot water has been used for hours. I contend that
>either the water heater heats water or it doesn't. If it works at all,
>it necessarily heats the entire 50 gallon tankfull.
>
>Is it possible to have a water heater produce only a partial tankfull of
>hot water?

    A number of posters have suggested a bad heating element or thermostat,
and that's likely.  However, I once had a similar problem caused by
a corroded-thru filler pipe inside the water heater.  Normally, hot
water is drawn off from the top of the tank, while cold water coming
in is run thru a pipe to the bottom.  If that pipe corrodes enough to
open a hole near the top, or to break off, the incoming cold water will
mix with the hot water at the tank's top.  The symptoms are that the
initial hot water is fully hot, but as water is drawn the temperature
will continually decrease; when you take a shower, you keep turning
up the hot water and turning down the cold till you can't go any further.

	 Cold      Hot
	  |         |
	  V         ^
       __| |_______| |__
      |  | |            |
      |  |   <-leak     |
      |  | |            |
      |  | |            |
      |  | |            |
      |  | |            |
      |  | |            |
      |_________________|

-DaveP
From: alanj@endeavor18.tek.com (Alan Jeddeloh)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Dish washers available that run on 120Volts????
Date: 11 Dec 92 17:33:33 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Tektronix, Inc.

In article <1992Dec10.232130.9306@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (patterson,george r) writes:
-...        Only those which have a water heating unit built in require
-220 volts.

Nope.  The ones that can bring the water up to the correct temperature are
120 volts, too.

I've never heard of a consumer dishwasher requiring 220 volts.

--
    Alan Jeddeloh      W:(503) 685-2991  H:(503) 292-9740
    Tektronix, Inc.; D/S 60-850; PO Box 1000; Wilsonville, OR 97070
    Alan.Jeddeloh@tek.com 
    You can put the children to bed, but you can't make them sleep!
From: rlink@acpub.duke.edu (Robert E. Link)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Bulging Basement Wall
Keywords: basement, water
Date: 15 Dec 92 05:16:54 GMT

We have a runoff problem with the whole street, sidewalk and even a
parking lot draining into our front yard and (yes) down to the front of
the house. I'm working on getting the city to deal with this (we just
bought the house) but in the meantime I see that the block is starting
to bulge out about 3 feet below ground level in the basement. A crack in
the mortar has started and expanded and widened slightly over the last 6
weeks (much rain lately). The crack is at the center of the bulge and at
that point the wall is about 1 inch out of true. I need help. We don't
have any money and I'm going to need to deal with this mostly myself.

Aside from getting the city to put in a storm sewer, what should I do
first? I thought about getting a load of topsoil to make a slope away
from the house but things may have gone too far for that. I remember
catching the end of a thread on this group once before where someone was
talking about excavating down the wall and putting either graveel or a
drainage pipe in?

Also, someone suggested that I put supports under the floor joists to
take some of the load off the wall?

The section of wall involved is about 20 feet long. Any help
appreciated. email or post to this group. Thanks
Robbie
rlink@acpub.duke.edu

-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-Robbie Link                                    
-Double Bass is my home.
-rlink@acpub.duke.edu  or  rlink@unc.bitnet
From: paul@hsh.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: How to fix a small burn in a Carpet?
Date: 16 Dec 92 22:03:46 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: HSH Associates

In article <1992Dec2.220308.4948@infonode.ingr.com>, barakam@infonode.ingr.com (Sreedhar Barakam) writes:
> My carpet has about an inch wide candle burn.  I know that it could be
> fixed by using a small piece of carpet either from leftover or cut 
> one from a closet.  Carpet professionals ask about $50, as it looks
> like a minimum charge.  Can this be done by a non-professional and if
> so how?  


From a past issue of one of the home handyman's magazines, I remember
something about this.  As I recall, first you carefully cut away the burned
area down to (but not including) the backing.  Then, using a scrap piece --
yeah, you could carve a piece out of the closet -- clip the carpet fibers off
it.  Fill the burned area with some kind of liquid glue (can't remember what
kind), and use tweezers to 'plant' the fibers into the glue.  They claimed it 
was an easy fix.  I seem to recall there was another step, but my memory is 
hazy.

I'd suggest you see if you can find that topic in one of the many fix-it 
books at the bookstore.....

------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ 

Paul Havemann, VP        HSH Associates          (201) 838-3330 | 1-800-UPDATES
Internet: paul@hsh.com   Compuserve: 70410,3507  America On-Line: HSH Assoc
  ...Any opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the company...
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: vonzelow@adobe.com (Jon von Zelowitz)
Subject: painting stovepipe
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated, Mountain View
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1992 12:33:46 GMT


I am replacing the stovepipe on my cast-iron woodburning stove. The
usual stuff is galvanized. I've seen some (expensive) pipe with a
black gloss paint finish, and I like how it looks.

Can I successfully prime and paint over new galvanized pipe to get
this glossy black appearance, using (presumably) high-temperature
spray paints?

   Jon von Zelowitz   vonzelow@mv.us.adobe.com   ...uunet!adobe!vonzelow