HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: tbigham@shearson.com (Tim Bigham)
Subject: CD changer for BMW stock radio
Organization: Lehman Brothers, NY
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 13:09:00 GMT

I have a BMW 325ic with the radio/cassette player which has an input for a 
CD changer. The "BMW" CD changer costs $700 installed at the dealership.
Can you say gouge? Not wanting to purchase something at a 300% markup, I figured
that I could find a changer in the market which would fit nicely into the
port on the back of my radio. 

	Questions:

	1) The port on the back of my head unit is a circular DIN style input.
	   Is this a standard interface for changer units or am I looking
	   at something proprietary?

	2) The salesman at the dealership stated that Alpine and Kenwood.
	   make the changer units for BMW. Anyone know the accuracy of this?


If anyone has gone through a similar experience, I'd appreciate any advice.

Thanks in advance,
-Tim

--
Timothy J. Bigham			| All opinions expressed above are my own
Lehman Brothers, Inc.			| and should not be construed as those of 
AMEX Tower, World Financial Center	| my employer.
New York, N.Y. 				|
From: lambedb@ducvax.auburn.edu
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Alternator whine help needed
Date: 17 Aug 92 17:37:33 GMT
Article-I.D.: ducvax.1992Aug17.123733.3198

I am having trouble eliminating alternator whine in my
'86 LeBarron.  I have tried the most obvious solutions such
as common ground on all components, capacitor/choke combinations
on the power leads, etc.  I still have just enough whine to notice
when playing at somewhat low volumes.  A friend of mine made a
suggestion I would like to throw out for all to comment on.
He suggested building a filter to be placed just after the alternator
so that ideally the whole electrical system would have a better
regulated DC power supply.  I'm not sure about some of the complications
of doing this, but it does seem to make sense.  I would appreciate
any and all comments on this idea, or some more ideas on how to 
eliminate whine.


Thanks!

Dave
dlambert@eng.auburn.edu
From: smennitt@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Stuart Mennitt)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Hiding subs
Date: 12 Aug 92 12:25:48 GMT
Reply-To: smennitt@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Stuart Mennitt)
Organization: NavSurfWarCen, CarderockDiv (ex-"Taylor Model Basin")

In rec.audio.car, ajsg9507@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (A.J. Singh) writes:
>
>Question:  Where is the best place for a sub+enclosure (I was thinking
>BA 10.0LF or 8.0LF) so that it won't get ripped-off in under a week.
>
>Car:  1980 Ford Fairmont Wagon.

    I have an old beater wagon, too.  I haven't done it yet, but I've
given some thought to putting in a sub.  The best idea I had sofar was
to just build the box, and then place it in an old cardboard box so
no wires were showing.  It's about the only alternative I could think
of.  As long as you don't blair the tunes as you park, I don't think
anyone would think there's a big ol' sub in that ratty cardboard box.
--____________________________________________________
]      Stu Mennitt      smennitt@oasys.dt.navy.mil    [
]  NavSurfWarCen, CarderockDiv     Bethesda, Maryland [
]         was: David Taylor Research Center           [
]     was: David Taylor Naval Ship R&D Center         [
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
From: tope@enea.se (Tommy Petersson)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Car alarm
Date: 20 Aug 92 15:10:39 GMT
Reply-To: tope@enea.se (Tommy Petersson)
Organization: Enea Data AB, Sweden
Uucp-Path: mcvax!kth!sunic!enea.se!tope

I can't find ANY newsgroup where questions about car alarms fit in,
so I ask them here:

I bought a simple car alarm in USA (L.A.) this summer, a Viper 600 (from
Directed Electronics). Reading the instruction I see that I would want
to add some extensions, like hood & trunk sensors and maybe a power
window motor (required for the Mazda I have).

I have called and fax'ed the shop where I bought the alarm and asked
some questions, mainly price on the extensions, but they have produced
no response at all. I have a friend that's going from L.A. to Sweden
and I thought she could bring it along, but it's to late for that now.

Can anyone help me out with information?

-- 
=============================================================================
 Tommy Petersson              tope@enea.se              Enea Data AB, Sweden
=============================================================================
From: kmr4@po.CWRU.Edu (Keith M. Ryan)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Hello all again, from Keith Ryan
Date: 21 Aug 92 23:03:51 GMT
Reply-To: kmr4@po.CWRU.Edu (Keith M. Ryan)
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)



Hello all, I am finaly back at CWRU after a LONG summer. Right now, I 
am still unpacking a full de Ville. Right, the stereo and comp were the 
first things unpacked. It will take me a while before I can become an 
active poster again, but, thought I'll take the time to drop a line.

gee, I can not even remember what my sig file was....

guess we'll soon find out.
-- 
  " I predict that if you think about it long enough you will find yourself 
going round and  round and round and round until you finally reach the only
one possibel, rational, intelligent conclusion. The law of gravity and gra-
vity itself DID NOT exist before Issac Newton "  -- Pirsig.
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: shing@tramp.Colorado.EDU (shing)
Subject: Plans for making WOOFER BOXES
Keywords: woofer
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 23:49:27 GMT

Anyone know of any magazines that have plans on how to make boxes
for woofers (2x15")?

Thanks in advance.

Mail: shing@tramp.colorado.edu
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: chiu@gpb-mac.sps.mot.com (Norman Chiu)
Subject: How to add a subwoofer
Originator: root@mogate.sps.mot.com
Organization: Motorola
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 18:36:49 GMT

       Well, I just couldn't leave "well enough" along.  After putting in
some high quality speakers and an amp just recently, I am thinking of 
adding a subwoofer in the trunk to add more "thumps" to my music.  So I
have some questions hopefully you audiophiles can help me.

First of all, my current system:

2 sets of Polk MM3055 component speakers up front (5.25" woofers, 1" tweeters)
2 sets of Polk MM6520 coaxial speakers for rear fill (6.5" and 0.5")
1 Precision Power (PPI) 4100AM 4x25W amplifier driving the above speakers.

1) I like to add a small (1 cu.ft. or so) subwoofer enclosure in the trunk.
   It consists of 2 Boston Acoustics 8.0LF 8" woofers in a simple 2nd order
   sealed box.  The woofers' efficiency are 91dB/Watt/meter, and can handle
   up to 200W maximum. (For those of you who want to build the same sub box,
   it is the box builder article in September/October issue of Car Stereo
   Review).  I don't listen in high volume, may be at most 100dB.  So,
   how much power do I need to drive this sub?  Do I need a second amp?
   If yes, how much power?  Or can I just reconfigure my existing 4 
   channel amp into 6 channels and use the extra 2 channels to drive the
   sub?

2) What kind of crossover should I use?  Active or passive?  Any advantages
   of the two?  Can you recommend a brand name/model number that fits nicely
   into the above system?

Thanks for reading this, all opinions and comments are welcome!!


-- 
   /|   /  chiu@gpb-mac.sps.mot.com   | Norman Chiu - Motorola Inc. Austin, TX
  / |  / ___________________________  | "...We never gonna to survive
 /  | / /  / /__/  /\/\   /_\   /| /  |  unless we get a little crazy..."
/   |/ /__/ /   \ /    \ /   \ / |/   |                            - Seal
From: erich.lim@cutting.hou.tx.us (Erich Lim) 
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: USENET
Date: 23 Aug 92 00:53:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: The Cutting Edge - Houston, TX - 713-466-1525
Reply-To: erich.lim@cutting.hou.tx.us (Erich Lim) 

   This is probably a stupid question, but I'll ask it anyway.
How come when I leave messages on Usenet, they don't have that little
header thing at teh beginning that looks like this:
        From:  ......
        Newsgroups:  .....
        Subject:   .....
        Date:   .....
        Organization:    ......


I've downloaded that file "USENET.ZIP" and can't seem to find any info.
on my problem and have read the bulletions on using Internet/Usenet.
Also wanted to say that this is one of the very few boards in town that
carries Usenet/Internet.  I think Usenet whips Fidonet,Circuitnet, and
all the others.   Thanks.

Erich Lim
From: rslau@usc.edu (Robert Lau)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: a/d/s Amplifiers
Date: 19 Aug 1992 18:43:51 -0700
Organization: University of Southern California, USA
NNTP-Posting-Host: tarazed.usc.edu
In-reply-to: keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov's message of 19 Aug 92 12:24:24 GMT

In article <4951@dove.nist.gov> keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov (Larry Keys) writes:

   BTW, Robert Lau, it sounds as if you have an impressive system.  Sure would
   like to hear it.

Check out the current issue (Sept 92) of European Car.  There's an
article on MB Quart's demo car, it's a 90 Passat. The audio system and
car are identical to mine with a few differences, minor stuff like the
fact that all speakers are a/d/s/ instead of MB Quart, different amps,
and my Passat isn't black :)

-- 
Robert Lau - Systems Programmer, Unix Systems     213-740-2866
--  University Computing Services                 Internet: rslau@usc.edu
--  University of Southern California             Bitnet:   rslau@uscvm
--  1020 W Jefferson, LA, CA  USA, 90089-0251     UUCP:     ...!uunet!usc!rslau
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: govender@shannon.ee.wits.ac.za (Govender)
Subject: info required on centre channel extraction
Organization: Electrical Engineering, University of the Witwatersrand
Date: 20 Aug 92 07:05:09 GMT

this is being posted on behalf of a friend. email to the above address or
followups will be appreciated.

Does anyone have information on how to extract a center channel for 
Car-Audio applications. More specifically :

In most Car-Audio setups one is presented with the problem of speaker 
placement inorder to create good staging. However correct speaker placement
may not always be possible for security reasons, inconvenience reasons etc..
 
There is however a solution :

It is possible to extract a centre channel by playing the difference information
between to channels through the centre channel, I believe this will has significant
effect on one's staging.

Does anyone have any ideas on how to accomplish this by means of op-amps or 
some simplified DSP circuit.


 Lorenzo D'Ambrosi.
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: belk@dxcern.cern.ch (Andy Belk)
Subject: Recommendations for buying a CD Changer ?
Summary: I'd like recommendations for which make/model of CD player
Keywords: car CD changer recommendations
Organization: CERN European Lab for Particle Physics
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 14:09:42 GMT

Hi,
    If it's not too much trouble, I wonder if anyone has any recommendations
as regards Car CD players go. To date I am considering buying a Sony system:

  CDX-U300   10-disc changer
  XR-U440RDS RDS radio, manual tape player plus CD controller

I can get a 30 % discount on Sony products hence the interest in Sony.
This works out to about 1100 Swiss Francs ($800) for the two. I have four
speakers already fitted and don't intend to upgrade them, so the 20W maximum
on the U440 amplifier is fine.

Could anyone tell me if the above changer is reliable or not ? Does it handle
road bumps well ? If so would their 5180 CD+radio (no tape) be better ?

Any better ideas (like Clarion or Alpine) ?

Any comments or suggestions much appreciated. Mail is best, although if anyone
else shows interst I'll post a summary.

Thanks,
          Andy
-- 
					    ...   Anyd   ...
From: clueless@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Huh?)
Newsgroups: rec.audio
Subject: help ! - trans. line speakers
Date: 19 Aug 92 04:22:30 GMT
Reply-To: clueless@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Huh?)
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin, Austin TX
Originator: clueless@doc.cc.utexas.edu

Hi audiophiles !

I'm planning to build a set of transmission line speakers and I would truly
appreciate having a few questions answered.  They are going to be 2-way
and need a good mid/bass driver of 6"-8" diam..  The 8" is a max. (I'd prefer
to keep it smaller).  Now for the questions:
	1) Can anyone suggest some appropriate main drivers?

	2) Sources for long fiber wool to fill the line with?

	3) Suggested methodologies (that means instructions) for supporting
	       the wool?

	4) I'd like some opinions on calculating line length - should I
	       base it on 1/4, 1/2, or 3/4 of the driver resonance frequency.

Any other suggestions would be appreciated by people with experience in build-
ing TL speakers.  I'm not trying to open a discussion on pros/cons of TL 
speakers, nor am I wanting anyone to try to dissuade me from building TL
speakers.  I just want a little info.  Here's my e-mail address for those
of you who would rather not waste net time on answers:

		clueless@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu

Thank you much,

Sean
From: chrisk@hercules.esd.sgi.com (Chris Kotsiopoulos)
Newsgroups: rec.audio
Subject: Re: DAK dbx satellite/subwoofer speakers - opinions?
Keywords: DAK dbx speakers
Date: 13 Aug 92 01:03:03 GMT
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc.

In article <jeberger.7.0@novell.com>, jeberger@novell.com (John Berger) writes:
|> In article <Bsw90E.3H7@news.udel.edu> dsnead@bach.udel.edu (David T
|> Snead) writes:
|> >Subject: Re: DAK dbx satellite/subwoofer speakers - opinions?
|> >In article <4716@balrog.ctron.com> donegan@ctron.COM (Dave
|> Donegan) writes:
|> >>Has anyone purchased the $299 dbx satellite/subwoofer speakers? 
|> The 
|> >>subwoofer has its own 140W amplifier.  
|> >
|> >The jist is the DAK bought the dbx name and is selling utter
|> crap.
|> >How good of a sat/sub are you really gonna get for $300?
|> >
|> >Dave
|> >
|> >Disclaimer: This is just a recap of what I remember from previous
|> >articles, I have never purchased anything from DAK.
|> Well, since I HAVE purchased something from DAK (a dbx subwoofer,
|> but not 
|> this particular one), I guess I should pipe in with my $.02.  
|> 
|> I disagree with the "utter crap" designation here, at least with
|> the 
|> subwoofer that I bought (the dbx 15" dual-voice coil that they have
|> |> offered for $150).  It can be crossed over actively or
|> passively, so you can 
|> upgrade in phases, the cabinet is quite solid, and it matches quite
|> well 
|> with my Threshold/Acoustat/Nakamichi/Denon/Hafler system.  True,
|> deep 
|> bass   (not a "thump at 60 hz").  My musical tastes are eclectic
|> (classical 
|> to jazz to Grateful Dead), and they match quite well.  I'm sure
|> it's not a 
|> Velodyne, but you can't get them for $150 either...
|> 
|> I found DAK to be very easy to deal with over the phone.  They were
|> out of 
|> stock at the time that I ordered, and told me so over the phone,
|> and 
|> later sent a card to confirm this, but it still arrived within 2
|> weeks.  
|> 
|> You can try them out for 30 days, and you're only out the freight
|> if you 
|> send 'em back....


I think the subwoofer included in the $299 deal  is rather small
(check the dimensions), but the amp alone may be worth the price.
I would recommend the other subwoofer mentioned, 
which I also happen to own. Like you said, it's no Velodyne, but
for $150 it sure shakes the house! And it looks good, too.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
     Chris Kotsiopoulos, MTS
     Casa de Hardware                    
     Modular Systems Division                   
     Silicon Graphics, Inc., Mountain View, CA  
     Seismic Enthusiast
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From: slee@eng.auburn.edu (Sanguk Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.audio
Subject: May I have your advice!!!
Date: 19 Aug 92 02:42:03 GMT
Reply-To: slee@eng.auburn.edu
Organization: Auburn University Engineering

A month ago, I found an audio rack system which sounds good at SEARS
There was only one displayed at the price $ 1500.00. 
They offered me 10% discount but I couldn't make up my mind to buy it.
That was SONY R7100 CD5. 
I've checked a few mail order stores but that model is discontinued.
Instead of it, R7200 CD5 comes with less power from 150W to 135W.
I'd like to buy around $1500 valued audio.
Let me ask you
Which is better between rack system and component with that money?
Would you give me a piece of advice!

Thanks 

		Sanguk Lee
Newsgroups: rec.audio
Subject: Onkyo SV70Pro-Best Price
From: psinha@cabbage.ece.uc.edu (Praveen Sinha)
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 04:14:09 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Unversity of Cincinnati, ECE Dept
Keywords: Onkyo, Pro-logic

Hi!,

	Help needed!. I had recently checked the price of Onkyo SV70Pro
at Circuit City. Their quote was $799. I was quite surprised when 
I saw a posting on the net stating the price around 570. I forgot to
save that posting but if I recall correctly there were some negative
views about the dealer. Could someone let me know how to get the best
deal on that particular receiver.


Thanks!

Praveen 

--------------------------------------------------------------------
Praveen Sinha
Digital Design Environments Lab       email : psinha@thor.ece.uc.edu
Dept. of Elec. and Comp. Engg.        Work  : (513) 556-3025
University of Cincinnati              Home  : (513) 751-4207
From: nxn@uts.amdahl.com (David J. Nixon)
Newsgroups: rec.audio
Subject: Wireless Headphones
Keywords: 900MHz Recoton
Date: 17 Aug 92 17:01:36 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA


I bought a Recoton (Retocon?) wireless headphone kit and
am dissappointed in the noise level. These use the 900MHz band.
The noise is worse than am radio, constant "burbling" that is
annoying during quiet passages and occaisional  bursts of squeaks
pops and clicks. Maybe the latter are caused by someone using a
900MHz phone nearby, although it doesn't seem to last long enough
for that.  The convenience of being able to move around the house
freely is wonderful. After a few hours using these I mentally tune
out the noise to some extent, but I'm about evenly divided over
whether I should keep them or return them to the store.

Is this typical of wireless headphones (900MHz type)?
Might I have a defective unit? I'm using fresh batteries in the receiver.
These were the only model the store (Fry's) had, are there other brands
that might be better? I saw some infra-red ones by Sony, but they're
not suitable for me as I want to use them outside in the yard or in
any room in the house.

Dave Nixon
nxn@uts.amdahl.com
From: quinn@dartmouth.edu (Jerry Quinn)
Newsgroups: rec.audio
Subject: Cheap surround (was Re: strong desire to vibrate room)
Date: 18 Aug 92 15:25:26 GMT
	<1992Aug18.133932.20787@irisa.fr>
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH

In article <1992Aug18.133932.20787@irisa.fr> leconte@irisa.fr (Thierry Leconte bureau AB 302 poste 7294) writes:
   >Others have suggested I use a difference signal, i.e. + of left and + of right
   >connected to sub-woofer, leave earths out of circuit.  Someone said this is
   >risky.  Why ?  Short ?  Bang ? 

   Not risky but you'll only get the difference between left and right and 
   not the sum !

It seems that if you wire a couple of speakers across the left and
right + B speaker outputs, you should get a cheap method of adding
surround sound.  This seems inherently better than wiring two more
speakers across the main speakers.  Granted there are still the
problems due to no delay, bandbassing, level control, and Dolby b.

Jerry Quinn
quinn@cs.dartmouth.edu
--
Jerry Quinn
quinn@cs.dartmouth.edu
From: turner@rastaman.llnl.gov (David Turner)
Newsgroups: rec.audio
Subject: Temperature and component life
Date: 12 Aug 92 20:24:39 GMT
Organization: Lawrence Livermore National Laboratory
Originator: turner@rastaman.llnl.gov

My new amp lives on the top shelf of my stereo cabinet, which is an old wooden 
armoire.  I noticed that it was getting quite warm up there, so I rigged up a 
hanging thermometer above the amp.  On a hot day, with loud music playing, I 
saw temperatures above 100 degrees F., actually around 110.  I know this is 
warmer than I would like, and I plan on adding a fan and more vents to the 
cabinet.  But it made me wonder:  How warm is too warm?  How much damage am I
doing to my amp by having it bathed in 110 ambient degrees?  I would be inter-
ested in seeing a discussion of heat and its effects on stereo components.
Thanks for listening...later...DT

------------
David Turner
dturner@llnl.gov -OR- turner@rastaman.llnl.gov
(510) 422-1162   
'82 VF750S    DoD#0373
Disclaimer:  All opinions are mine.  None are theirs.
From: tuzman@ee.umn.edu (grad student Alvaro K. Tuzman)
Subject: Speakers kit advise needed 
Organization: Electrical Engineering, U of MN, Mpls.
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 02:49:36 GMT


First, I appologize for having sent this message with the wrong
"Subject". I hope it didn't cause too much inconvenience.


Dear Audio-crowd:

I have decided to build my own pair of speakers. This is going 
to be my first time, so I decided to buy a kit. In this way I can 
experiment, but with some guidance, hoping not to be too far 
away from the "correct" (?) tweaking. I would like to get a 
very clear speaker, unfortunatelly in a budget. Here's where I 
am: I got in touch with a very friendly and knowledgable guy in 
the net, who gave me many basic guidances, told me about 
books and papers, and a little bit about drivers. 

I've looked at the following kits (not in order of preference 
necessarily), and I would greatly appreciate any advise for the 
final decision on which one to buy:

(all prices without cabinets, except 4))

1) D'APPOLITO 717 SIGNATURE SPEAKER

Woofer: Scan Speak 18W8544 Kevlar (2) 
Tweeter: Scan Speak D2905 
network: 4th order Linkwitz-Riley at 2200 Hz 
Price: $560

I was warned about Kevlar break up, but since this crossover 
is at a very low frequency, I thought it may not be a problem. 
The ad says it has very clerar midrange. (This kit is a little bit 
expensive for me, but I might get there).

2) Davis MV7

Woofer: 20MC8A 
Tweeter: TW26T 
Mid: 13KLV5MA 
Crossover filter: 6/6/12/12 dB slopes, 500/4500 Hz 
Price: $415

3) Gemini

Woofer: 15W758 (2) 
Tweeter: D260 
Crossover: ? 
Price: $662

The people at Madisound told me that this kit is great. Looking 
at the tweeter curves, the D260 seems to have a big 
attenuation away from the axis starting at less than 10 Khz. It 
seems to me that if you don't listen to your system always 
from the same sofa you could get in trouble. 

4) Phoenix

Madisound 10208 woofer 
Peerless 1615 mid 
Vifa D20TD05 tweeter
frequency range: 35 - 20K +-2dB 
crossover: 18 db, impedance compensated 
$ 600 with cabinets.

5) The Twinn

It has 2 woofers and a tweeter in a D'Appolito configuration. 
Woofer: 17W75 (2 of them) 
Tweeter: D-28 AF 
Price: $500

Thanks in advance for any comments.

Alvaro K. Tuzman 
Univesity of Minnesota 
tuzman@ee.umn.edu

Newsgroups: rec.audio
From: serge@dgbt.doc.ca (Serge Ah Hee)
Subject: shopping for sony stuff (flame)
Organization: The Communications Research Centre
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 92 17:21:02 GMT

I decided the other day to get myself a portable CD player. I was particularly
interested in the A->B repeat feature. The Sony D99 model had it. Ok... so
I go check it out at a store, price:299$ cdn. Check it out at another
store...price 299$ cdn. Third store... same thing. Finally I go to the SONY
store... same thing. Of course all of them were on sale from 350$ to 299$.
IMHO, I don't really called that a sale if everybody sales it at the same 
price. What gives? I don't know if it is the same in the US, but can
anybody explain this price monopoly? I went to 9 stores, and nobody won't
even deal. I know it is not much to deal for, but the same goes for Sony
TV's, they just won't budge.

Serge
.
-- 
Serge Ah-Hee                  "Most troubles come from the fact that people 
serge@dgbt.doc.ca		take for granted of what they have, and 
				only care for what they want."
My opinions are mine only.