HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: scot@fc.hp.com (Scot Heath)
Subject: Re: TableSaw Horsepower
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 00:24:58 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Fort Collins Site
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

Chip Coffin (coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM) wrote:
: Old topic, I'm sure.
: 
: 
: I just bought a Powermatic 5hp tablesaw.
: 
: It holds a 10" blade and has 5 hp 3-phase motor.
: 
: I know of two netters in particular that think this is a 
: total waste of money on a motor as 3 HP is fine for a 10"
: blade.
: 
: I argue that if I use a static converter, I can still get 3 hp
: out of it (weak argument), and I will be cutting aluminum with it.
: But it will go into a shop with 3 phase power.  

If by "static convertor, you mean a capacitive starting box, you will be
operating your 3 phase motor single phase and will get approximately 2/3
rated power out.  When you say " But it will go into a shop with 3 phase
power.", do you mean real 3 phase or at least, manufactured real 3 phase
either from:

  a) the power company
  b) a rotating convertor
  c) a motor-generator set
  d) a solid state rectifier/invertor
  e) 2 transformers and V-phase power from the power company

If so, you will get real 5 hp from your motor.

-Scot
From: bwj@cbnews.cb.att.com (bruce.w.johnson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Wood Moisture Meters
Date: 15 Oct 92 18:53:51 GMT
Organization: AT&T

I am thinking about building a wood moisture meter. Does anyone ever seen
a circuit schematic for a wood moisture meter ? Also does anyone know
how the meter works ? Post on this newsgroup since I am sure that a couple
of us woodworkers have the same thoughts.

Thanks,
Bruce

Another woodworker from the field of electronics.
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 16 Oct 1992 14:30:18 EST
From:         Bill Alexander <ALEX@NKI.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Dado Blades?
              16 Oct 1992 17:08:50 GMT from <davek@INFORMIX.COM>

One problem with my Craftsman stacking set in the grove that results from
the blades being slightly larger than the chippers. I know this is
intentional, but does this bother anyone else? A cabinet maker told me to
take the set to a sharpener to have the blades ground down to the same height
as the chippers. Has anyone done this?
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Carbide blade sharpening
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 92 21:53:41 GMT

In article <guido.719072874@sparc-3> guido@blink.att.com (Guido Bertocci) writes:
>I need to get several 10" carbide saw blades sharpened.  Does anyone
>have any recommendations either locally in New Jersey or preferably
>mail order?  Does Freud provide such a service?
>Thanks

Try Stelton Hardware on Stelton Road in Piscataway. 985-0315. They send
the blades out for sharpening. Takes about a week.

patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | There are very few personal problems which
George Patterson -  | cannot be solved by a suitable application
                    | of high explosive.
                    |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ericb@microsoft.com (Eric Brown)
Subject: Re: Delta table saw for sale...
Date: 07 Oct 92 22:13:52 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp
Distribution: na

bennett@adobe.com writes:
|M21605@mwvm.mitre.org writes
|
|[...]
|> So,
|> for example, if Mr. Caras's saw is a US made Delta in mint condition from
|> 1970, it would be worth more than a new one. 
|
|In 1981, FWW visited the manufacturing sites (still in the US) for Delta/
|Rockwell and Powermatic. The Delta/Rockwell rep. admitted that the
|quality of their tools of a decade earlier wasn't very good. That would
|date them about 1970.

The quality suffered after Rockwell International bought Delta and Porter-
Cable, which, if memory serves, was in the early 1970's.  I bought a 3/8"
variable speed drill in 1982 (or thereabouts) that was made by Rockwell.
After some use it became obvious that the quality was not equal to the
same model of drill that had been made by Porter-Cable.  Ditto for a Rockwell
model 100 router that I purchased about 10 years earlier.  Thank goodness
that Delta and Porter-Cable are once again independent businesses that value
their reputations for quality.

-- 
    Eric
               Microsoft Systems, Advanced Systems Development
            {sun, uw-beaver, apple, uunet, fluke}!microsoft!ericb 
                       internet: ericb@microsoft.com
From: tlp00@climb.as (Tibor Polgar)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Recommendations for random orbital sander
Date: 14 Oct 92 04:09:30 GMT
Reply-To: tlp00@climb.as
Organization: Sun Microsystems

In article <1992Oct7.010222.23114@tc.cornell.edu>, kakazu@theory.TC.Cornell.EDU (Gary Kakazu) writes:
|> Does anyone have any recommendations for a good random orbital sander?
|> 
Don't remember the number but I have the BOSCH 6" random orbital.   Great but unsure it was
worth the amount i paid for it.   The barrel handle is a tad too big to comfortably hold  and
the dust collector works ok.   The two operating modes (direct and slip drive) are nice but
i usually only use it in direct drive for grit 80, 150, 220 and then go to a scrapper.
    The best feature is the cling on sanding pads,  which once you've tried it, you'll never
want to go back to PSA.  Only problem is that few places sell 6in disks,   THE SANDING CATALOG
being the best.
    Which ever you choose, they are way better than the old style sanders of yesteryear.
 
    By the way, Fine Woodworking and a review of randon orbital sanders earlier this year.
 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: doshay@ursa.arc.nasa.gov (David Doshay)
Subject: Re: Recommendations for random orbital sander
Organization: NASA-Ames Biocomputation Center
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 16:55:07 GMT

In article <1992Oct9.210144.19986@schbbs.mot.com>, RYLV80@waccvm.corp.mot.com (William Mohrman) writes:
|> >Does anyone have any recommendations for a good random orbital sander?
|> 
|> 
|> I have the bosch 5" and like it alot.  I really like the variable
|> speed, hook and loop fastening system, and the dust collection.
|> 
|> I am amazed at the versatility of RO sanders.  60 grit; you can remove
|> wood like it was a belt sander(with much better control). 240 grit-
|> put a swirl free polish on the wood if you wish.
|> 

I also have the Bosch 5", and it seems to work well, but I do not think it
gets near the agressive wood removal ability of a belt-sander, at least not
on the plywood I was recently working on. I agree that it is a nice tool, but
most belt sanders have far more powerful motors. It does tear right through
redwood though.

The Bosch has 3 different pads, hard medium and soft, for different jobs like
stock removal and buffing the car. The speed controll seems to work well.

My only complaint is that the bag for the dust collection keeps popping off.

I also looked at the Bosch 6", but I did not like the way it felt in my
hands. It has a more powerful motor if stock removal is to be the primary
use.

I was warry of spending the extra money for velcro backed sandpaper, but as 
somebody out there informed me, and I now agree, you get more use out of the
sandpaper because you can easily remove one grit and go back to it. This is
not the case with sticky-backed sandpaper (at least not in my dusty shop).

David		doshay@soma.arc.nasa.gov

The thought police insist I tell you:
my thoughts, not NASA's
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stevep@lugh.se.hou.compaq.com (Steve Pinn)
Subject: Re: Grizzly Bandsaw
Organization: Compaq Computer Corporation
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 19:25:07 GMT

In article <1992Oct7.170124.9557@organpipe.uug.arizona.edu>, apoyner@as.arizona.edu (Tony Poyner) writes:
|> In article 28056@porthos.cc.bellcore.com, patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie) writes:
|> >In article <pea.718418618@spider.wri.com> pea@spider.wri.com (Bruce Pea) writes:
|> >
|> >>Can anyone tell me anything about Grizzly's bandsaws?
|> >
|> >Boy, did you just open Pandora's box!
|> >
|> >patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
|> 
|> No kidding!
|> 
|> To save bandwidth, as an owner of a 16inch Griz bandsaw, I suggest that you
|> look elsewhere unless you are:
|> 1. Into re-machining
|> 2. More interested in trying to get the thing working than cutting wood
|> 3. A masochist.
|> 4. All of the above, in which case the Griz is excellent value for money.
|> 
|> Seriously, I'm **fairly** happy with mine, after doing a hell of a lot of
|> work on it, and NO, I would not do it again.
|> 
|> ---
|> Tony Poyner                               apoyner@as.arizona.edu
|

Boy, I couldn't agree with Tony more.  I have their 18" saw and wish it would still be theirs!  Carter guides fixed some of the adjustment problems but I sure had to spend an awful amount of time adjusting, milling and kicking.  I would not another. - Steve Pinn
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bulwinkl@stein.u.washington.edu (Lise Knox-Seith)
Subject: furniture-making
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 08:20:19 GMT


	I know next to nothing about woodworking, but am interested
in learning enough to make some furniture.  The local "University
Extension" offers a class on woodcarving.  Heavy, ornate patterns
that they produce are not my taste, but I wondered if this might be
a worthwhile place to start?  It would be nice to study designs that
are more to my taste (simple, graceful, clean lines.)  Where/how is
a good place to start?  Is it necessary to have lots of power tools,
or can I do good work without them?  Seems to me that lots of lovely
furniture was made before the invention of electricity.

	I also think that Spanish wrought iron can be very beautiful.
There was a gentleman rancher in my hometown who made door handles
and a chandelier for the main house in this style. I suppose this is
very difficult to learn to do?  Are there still any craftsmen who do
this kind of work?

	Email responses are probably better: not sure that I'll keep
up on reading this newsgroup since I'm not into powertools (yet?!)


	bulwinkl@u.washington.edu


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: guido@blink.att.com (Guido Bertocci)
Subject: Re: Carbide blade sharpening
Organization: AT&T
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 14:27:54 GMT

I need to get several 10" carbide saw blades sharpened.  Does anyone
have any recommendations either locally in New Jersey or preferably
mail order?  Does Freud provide such a service?
Thanks
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: toml@xrxedds.UUCP (Tom Love)
Subject: Re: Recommendations for random orbital sander
Organization: Xerox EDDS, Herndon, Va.
	<1992Oct7.180417.17868@genghis.borland.com>
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 14:49:10 GMT

> The only problem I had was scratching the wood when first lowering the
> spinning sander onto a workpiece.  The scratches were easily sanded
> out, but a bit disturbing.  I'm sure this is my own inexperience, not
> a problem with the sander.

it is my experience and understanding that lowering a spinning RO
sander onto the work surface is a no-no, for precisely the reason you
note.  place the sander on the surface and hold steady before turning
it on.

--

-----

Tom Love
Xerox Engineering Systems / Engineering Document Management Systems
607 Herndon Pkwy, Herndon, VA 22070  Voice 703-787-2027  Intelnet 8-440-2027
				     Fax 703-787-2110
Internet:   toml@xrxedds.com
            toml.herndon@xerox.com
UUCP:       ...!uunet!xrxedds!toml
XNS:        toml:herndon:xerox
From: apoyner@as.arizona.edu (Tony Poyner)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta contractor's saw
Date: 8 Oct 92 20:17:48 GMT
Reply-To: apoyner@as.arizona.edu
Organization: MMT Observatory, Univ.of Arizona

In article 2564@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com, billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson) writes:
>: I disagree.  It took me several iterations to get mine aligned to 0.001
>: to 0.002", but I certainly was not satisfied with the 0.008 or so that
>: it came with.
>: 
>: I found that loosening the 4 nuts, then snugging them up again until the
>: assembly would just move when I tapped it with a mallet was the best way.
>: The less you have to tighten the nuts after alignment, the less chance it
>: has to move on you.
>
>Your process, by definition, is trial and error. I have seen no table saw
>with a dial in or calibrated adjustment.
>
>Remember,  the miter gauge on your saw probably has more play than that
>in the groove.  The end runout on the motor arbor is also likely to be
>around .01".  Your rip fence probably does not clamp any more accurately
>either. It is doubtful if you can measure that close, using a steel rule.
>I suppose you could use a dial indicator each time you set the fence, but
>I know of no woodworkers who have ever done that.

I don't disagree that my method is trial & error, it sure is.  I do disagree
that .01" is good enough.

I set the blade-to-slot alignment with a dial indicator.  I also set the
fence-to-slot alignment with a dial indicator.  I have the Unifence and it
(so far anyway) is accurate and repeatable to within 2 or 3 thou.  I have
the Electronic Measurment System, so I don't even use a steel rule to set
the fence.

The arbor runout is unmeasurably small (with my indicator), and if it had
been *close* to .01, I would have sent the saw back.

---
Tony Poyner                               apoyner@as.arizona.edu
Multiple Mirror Telescope Observatory     Tel   (602) 621-5185
Univ. of Arizona, Tucson, AZ 85721        Fax   (602) 670-5740
Xref: sparky rec.woodworking:7032 rec.crafts.misc:765
From: robertj@tekgen.bv.tek.com (Robert Jaquiss)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.misc
Subject: LOOKING FOR KITS TO BUILD CHILDRENS CHAIRS AND TABLES
Date: 14 Oct 92 21:36:57 GMT
Article-I.D.: tekgen.1411
Followup-To: rec.woodworking
Organization: Tektronix, Inc.


     I am looking for sources for kits to build childrens chairs and tables.
As these chairs will be used in a classroom, I want something that will be 
strong and durable.  Thank you.

	Robert Jaquiss

Internet: robertj@tekgen.bv.tek.com
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Thu, 8 Oct 1992 17:11:31 EST
From:         FABY000 <FABY@NMUMUS.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Hand Plane Question

I have several Record planes and one Stanley.  The Record planes are my
favorite and I recommend them.  However, remember that any new planes
needs to be tuned.  I usually purchase the new planes with a sharpened
blade that for me prepares the blade for further honing.  Roger Barry
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: guido@blink.att.com (Guido Bertocci)
Subject: Re: Carbide blade sharpening
Organization: AT&T
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 15:20:53 GMT

patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie) writes:

>In article <guido.719072874@sparc-3> guido@blink.att.com (Guido Bertocci) writes:
>>I need to get several 10" carbide saw blades sharpened.  Does anyone
>>have any recommendations either locally in New Jersey or preferably
>>mail order?  Does Freud provide such a service?
>>Thanks

>Try Stelton Hardware on Stelton Road in Piscataway. 985-0315. They send
>the blades out for sharpening. Takes about a week.

I will be using Forrest Manufacturing in Clifton, NJ.  I can do it via UPS.
I suspect that many who send out in the NJ area use Forrest.
I called Forrest and they also provide a "maintenance" service where
they will check the blade over (for free) and fix it if necessary (not free)
i.e. replace teeth.

Again thanks to the many folks who responded.
From: apoyner@as.arizona.edu (Tony Poyner)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: tail vises
Date: 15 Oct 92 17:40:39 GMT
Reply-To: apoyner@as.arizona.edu
Organization: MMT Observatory, Univ.of Arizona

I just saw an ad in one of this months magazines for Veritas vise
hardware that uses two screws interconnected with a chain, to 
resist racking.  Looks like a real interesting design - no prices
quoted in the ad though.

---
Tony Poyner                               apoyner@as.arizona.edu
Multiple Mirror Telescope Observatory     Tel   (602) 621-5185
Univ. of Arizona, Tucson, AZ 85721        Fax   (602) 670-5740
From: Robert Drongowski <Robert.Drongowski@cc.umich.edu>
Subject: Need Advice On Outdoor Wooden Door
Date: Fri, 09 Oct 92 15:00:13 EDT
Organization: Pediatric Surgery, U of Michigan
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1b2


Help!
We live in Michigan and have an outside-exposed wooden door which faces
southwest and is therefore pelted with wind, snow and exposed to the sun.
 Every year the door's varnish peels extensively, and thus we have to
sand,  re-stain and use 3 coats of exterior varnish.  This becomes very
tiresome, and I would be very thankful if someone could offer any
solution to prevent this problem from becoming a yearly event.  We have
tried wood sealant since there are cracks in the wood.  Any other tricks
worth knowing about or trying???
Bob Drongowski, Ann Arbor, MI
From: psv2b@poe.acc.Virginia.EDU (Peter S. Vines)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Workbench Dogs -- what for?
Keywords: dog dowels workbench
Date: 9 Oct 92 13:39:51 GMT
Organization: University of Virginia

The "dogs" are for holding pieces of wood steady while planing, sanding, etc...
The wood is held between the dog and a wood vise attached to the end of
the work bench.


In article <5615@ssc-bee.ssc-vax.boeing.com> simnet@ssc-vax.boeing.com (Mark R Poulson) writes:
>I've heard of and seen workbenches with rows of holes in them which dowels
>are placed. These dowels are about an inch in diameter, two or three inches
>long, and someone called these things "dogs". What can you do with this
>(it seemed like a woodworkers bench that I was looking at)? Any ideas?
>
>	Thanks,
>	   Mark on
>	   simnet@ssc-bee.boeing.com


--
- Peter Vines : vines@virginia.edu : (804) 924-4644 : University of Virginia
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: Scott Fenstermacher
Subject: Re: Wooden ball clock
Organization: College of William & Mary, founded 1693
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 15:13:50 GMT

In  <01GPW4RGG6YQ8Y4YT6@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM>          RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM writes:
> One source for you ball bearings is a well equiped hunting / sporting
> goods store. They are often sold as sling shot ammo.
>  
> Of hand I don't have any names; but, I've seen several "electronics"
> resale catalogs that list odd motors and I believe 1 rpm's are pretty common
> there. You should be able to find a copy of "nuts and volts" at a local
> electronics / ham radio store, it will have adds for the type of catalog
> I'm suggesting.
>  
>                               Ron Tye (all opinions are fictional
>                                        any resembelence to a real
>                                        opinion, living or dead, is
>                                        purly coinsedental).

You should try getting a 1 RPM synchronous motor. This will run in sync with
the commercial power provider. They are typically more accurate than most.

Scott
Scott@enge1.cc.wm.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: yasin@laser.dev.cdx.mot.com (Yasin)
Subject: Need recomendations for.....
Organization: Motorola Codex, Canton, MA
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 17:58:07 GMT

Hi Everyone,

I am a resident of Mass., I am at present very much interested in
taking some intermediate level course or on-hands training in 
woodworking. Would appreciate if you can recommend any availble
in the area of Rhode Island or Mass.

I am also interested in the knowing about the TV shows related to WW 
with atleast the day and time.

Thanks in advance for the help.

Regards,

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: alexande@genghis.borland.com (Mark Alexander)
Subject: Re: Bookcase design (It's baaaack!)
Originator: alexande@genghis.borland.com
Organization: Borland International
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 17:21:41 GMT

In article <1992Oct14.173529.27966@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU> wrp@cyclops.micr.Virginia.EDU (Bill Pearson) writes:
>	In my experience, the major problem with any bookcase that
>does not have fixed shelves is bowing-out of the sides. Plan to finish
>all your edges with 1 x 2's or 1 X 3's (harder to find).

I've read that putting a 1/4-inch plywood back on the case can solve
this problem, too.  (I'm going to build my first "box-type" bookcase
sometime soon to test this hypothesis.)
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Comparisons of metalworking machinery
Date: 8 Oct 92 20:34:36 GMT
Organization: LLNL

In article <1992Oct8.195140.1090@u.washington.edu>, kenm@daffy.cac.washington.edu writes:
> 

[stuff deleted]

> What are the corresponding choices for metalworking machinery? The
> only brands I am aware of are Jet, Grizzly, and Enco. It seems to me
> that metalworking machinery must be built to closer tolerances than
> woodworking machinery. So, any advice or experience about small mill/
> drills or lathes?

There are quite a few other manufacturers in the United States, Bridgeport,
Cincinnati, Giddings & Lewis, Southbend, Monarch, to name a few.
Unfortunately, the money is in CNC manufacturing cells, so the traditional
mom & pop machine shop and it's few general purpose machine tools have
been left to high-end tool-room equipment makers and low-cost imports.  Of
the three you mentioned, Enco and Jet have the best selection.  My experience
with Enco is that quality is variable.  Some things are good deals, while
other things you have to try several times to get a good one.  As far as
"small" mill/drills and lathes go, you get what you pay for.  Mass usually
translates to heavier and more accurate cuts.  I asked the same question
you asked and got a fairly consistent response on rec.guns and trial.rec.-
metalworking: the mill/drills are ok for light work, but don't expect too
much.  I finally ended up replacing my 1912 model Van Norman mill with an
Enco 3/4-Bridgeport-size (8X36 table as opposed to 9X42 table) vertical
mill that weighs 1700 lbs.  So far I haven't been disappointed.  This mill
was one of the good Enco products.
> 
> apologies: I would ask rec.metalworking if it existed
> 
> 
Well, efforts are afoot to convert trial.rec.metalworking into
rec.metalworking, so we can both avoid faux pas in the future.

G.

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: daniel@redwood.ppc.ubc.ca (Daniel Ouellet)
Subject: Re: Best wood for windows?
Organization: University of B.C. Pulp & Paper Centre
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 15:21:32 GMT

In article <4890247@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com>, joeld@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Joel Dunsmore) writes:
|> Pine and Fir are very subject to dry rot.  I would use redwood, you 
|> may want to use cedar.  I replace at least 10 peices of pine trim on
|> my 10 year old house during painting this summer, due to dry rot.  I
|> used finger jointed clear redwood, oil primed on all sides, an I
|> expect that it will last.
|> 
|> Joeld

As they say, your mileage may vary... My house is 70+ years old and all the windows and doors are
made of Douglas fir, with no sign of rot or decay.

-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Daniel Ouellet, Research Associate
Pulp and Paper Centre, University of British Columbia
2385 East Mall, Vancouver, BC, Canada V6T 1Z4
Tel:(604)822-8240   Fax:(604)822-8563   Email: daniel@ppc.ubc.ca