HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jartsu@vipu.hut.fi (Jartsu)
Subject: Weird thing, opinions, PLEASE?
Reply-To: Jari.Lehto@hut.fi
Organization: Helsinki University of Technology, Finland
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 17:32:33 GMT


 One day I was visiting an aquaria shop nearby and when I asked the
 owner (old, VERY experienced aquaria hobbyist, makes even all his
 extracts and additives himself!) about various CO2-injection systems
 etc, he showed me something I had never seen before and still wonder
 if it can be so wonderful thing as he stated.

 He told me that the large tank (several hundred liters open top) he
 keeps the plants for sale (and lots of them) has no CO2-injection, it
 has something a lot better: a hydrogen peroxide operated "thing" which
 maintains both high O2 and CO2 levels, ozonizes the water and
 everything stays healthier, happier and cleaner this way. And the
 plants were in wonderful condition, not to mention how fresh and
 healthy all those fish living in that tank seemed to be, no algae, and
 extremely clear water and clean bottom.

 The gadget itself is a ceramic, hmm, lets say mug, with a ceramic ball
 as a lid. Under the lid there is a plastic bottle upside down,
 containing some hydrogen peroxide blended with distilled water and few
 pieces of brown coal. The cap of the bottle had small holes, to keep
 the coal inside but let the gas to come out. And the ceramic ball was
 there to hold the bottle inside the mug.

 I think I have heard that some people use this kind of things in
 Marine setups, but it seems to work perfectly well in Freshwater setup
 as well.

 PLEASE, could somebody tell me something about this, before I go and
 buy one.


--
* Jari Lehto     * Voice 90-387939    *   Email Jari.Lehto@hut.fi   *
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:5243 rec.aquaria:7870 sci.aquaria:1426
From: kimmel@cortex.sai.vtt.fi     (Jyrki Kimmel)
Subject: Re: Please Help
Organization: Technical Research Centre of Finland (VTT/SAI)
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 06:02:23 GMT

In article <15990004@hpwrce.mayfield.hp.com> kingsley@hpwrce.mayfield.hp.com (Kingsley Morse) writes:
>              Please answer these 9 questions and return.

Well, I won't, however politely you ask.

>
>8.) What political party are you affiliated with?
>Democratic         [ ]
>Republican         [ ]
>Other              [ ]

In my country we have "Other" parties. Are you sure you
wished to get answers to your questions from outside the US?
If so, you should have been more specific. Otherwise, I would
recommend using a more restricted distribution.

Another distracting thing is, these questions seem in no way
related to aquarium keeping. Come to think of it, no
purpose for this questionnaire was given at all!

Maybe next time...

Jyrki


-- 
Jyrki Kimmel, VTT Medical Engineering Laboratory kimmel@cortex.sai.vtt.fi
signature in proposal in peer review phase (PPRP). Proposed motto:
"El{m{ on kivaa!" ("Life is fun!")  -Kaisa-Maria, age 3
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: thester@nyx.cs.du.edu (Uncle Fester)
Subject: Re: 'stained glass' fish - genuine or modified fakes?
X-Disclaimer: Nyx is a public access Unix system run by the University
	of Denver for the Denver community.  The University has neither
	control over nor responsibility for the opinions of users.
Organization: Nyx, Public Access Unix at U. of Denver Math/CS dept.
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 92 06:10:06 GMT

In article <1992Oct7.135829.21931@cbnews.cb.att.com> ahm@hoqas2.att.com (
ndreas Meyer) writes:
>In alt.aquaria, grjost@uts.amdahl.com (Garrett Jost) writes:
>
>>      The most pathetic marketing I've seen with these was last year wh
n
>> we got shipments of these fish: half colored black, the other half ora
ge.
>> They were called "Holloween Glass Fish!"  I was suprised how many peop
e
>> thought the colors were natural...
>> 
>> What are the chances that fish evolve into two flourescent colors that
>> are the same as the colors traditionally used for Holloween?  And wher

>> do they go after October?  They're not in stores!
>
>The chances are actually pretty good, and I've seen them all year round.
>They're called "tiger barbs". :-)
>
>Andy
>-- 
>    ==--
>  -====---    Andreas Meyer, N2FYE                     ahm@hoqas2.att.co

>  --==----    AT&T Bell Laboratories, Holmdel NJ        ..!att!hoqas2!ah

>    ----


Hmmm.  "Fluorescent" tiger barbs.
Now _that's_ some really fast evolution there.  But then I don't think you
meant that the tiger barbs fluoresced, now did you?

Uncle Fester

--
:  Master,                        :       Uncle Fester       : Printed  :
:    Me and Rex took the kar      :   thester@nyx.cs.du.edu  : on 100%  :
:    to town. Stay home. Stay!    :         -or try-         :recyclable:
:       Ha ha ha ha.   The dog.   :    T.HESTER4 on GEnie    : phosphor :
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:5235 nj.wanted:780 misc.wanted:8877
From: bjkramer@remus.rutgers.edu (Brian Kramer)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,nj.wanted,misc.wanted
Subject: Aquarium Stuff Wanted
Keywords: Aquarium
Date: 7 Oct 92 17:00:33 GMT
Followup-To: alt.aquaria
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.


I am looking for any or all of the following:

55 gallon tank with flourescent hood and stand
Eheim, Fluval or Magnum filter for a 55 gallon.
Large Whisper Air Pump.
Power Heads.
UGF for 55.

E-mail me if you have any of it.
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: lyles@patrick.b15.ingr.com (Patrick Lyles)
Subject: Cyanide caught fish
Organization: Intergraph Corp., Huntsville, AL 35894-0001
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 14:43:34 GMT

Hi,

        I have a 55 gallon marine tank that has been running for about
7 months. The water quality all checks within the ranges specified in
the SeaTest Multi-kit, ( I don't have the exact numbers here at work).
A 5-gallon water change is performed every other week using Hw Marine
Mix. Specific Gravity is 1.021, temperature is 76 deg.  The Fish Store
Guy Checked my water the other day and concurred with my tests.

        The tank contains           length of stay
        1 Coral Banded Shrimp       (2 mo.)
        1 Chocolate Chip Starfish   (2 mo.)
        1 3-Spot Damsel             (3 mo.)
        1 Blue Damsel               (7 mo.)
        3 Green Chromis Damsels     (2.5 mo.)

Well my problem is that the Green Chromis Damsels all at once, in the
same day started "treading water" near the surface of the tank.  Every
one else seems to be doing fine, (except for the 3-spot that wakes up
with white spots every morning but are gone by mid-morning and is a
different story), the shrimp has molted twice since he has been in our
tank.
        I was wondering if there are any indicators of a fish being
caught with cyanide. I have heard that a fish will eventually waste
away after it has been caught with poisons, but have never heard of
the specific symptoms.  

The FSG has a "Damsel in Distress" policy where i could return them
for 1/2 the price towards a new purchace, as long as they are still
alive, I have thought about returning them, but if there is some
maintainence factor that i have missed i don't want to subject a new
specimen to the same condition.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance

------ 
Patrick Lyles 
Intergraph Corp.  
lyles@patrick.b15.ingr.com

   -------------------------------------------
 /                                           /|
--------------------------------------------- |
|              o        ____                | |                      
|     _/\____  0   |\  /|||o\       ___     | |  The more people I meet
|  |\/  <  @ \ O   ||><|||(|_>     /o  \/|  | |  The more I like my fish.
|  |/\_______/     |/  \||||/      \___/\|  | |
---------------------------------------------/ 

 
--
------
Patrick Lyles                                                              
Intergraph Corp.
lyles@patrick.b15.ingr.com                                         

   -------------------------------------------
 /                                           /|
--------------------------------------------- |
|              o        ____                | |                      
|     _/\____  0   |\  /|||o\       ___     | |  The more people I meet
|  |\/  <  @ \ O   ||><|||(|_>     /o  \/|  | |  The more I like my fish.
|  |/\_______/     |/  \||||/      \___/\|  | |
---------------------------------------------/ 

 
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: jony@microsoft.com (Jonny Yeargers)
Subject: Re: mystery eggs found
Date: 13 Oct 92 21:34:41 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp.
Distribution: usa

Well..its immaterial now.. somebody ate them.
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 23:17:50 EDT
From: <KAB137@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: Pleco's and food

Brian,

Just a "warning:" I chuckled out loud when I read that you just purchased a "la
rge" plecos, 4-5 inches.  Our Plecos just died a few months ago, when he was 10
 years old...he was at least a foot and a half!  We loved him very much and wer
e sad when he died.  He was only kept in a 20 gallon tank, so don't think this
won't happen to you! :)  In response to your problem, Don't bother making a fus
s with veggies (I don't believe in it anyway, there's always a chance there'll
be microorganisms that get in the water and you may awaken to find floating fis
h) but in any case, we fed ours just plain flake food.  Feed your fish a little
 extra food, then tap it with your finger so it doesn't float.  Your other fish
 will go after the food near the top...later on the plecos will clean house, ea
ting the food as he goes.  Your Plecos will never starve. He is eating food tha
t you don't even see...there's plenty of bacteria he tastes that is invisible!
Take it from me, if I supported a 1 1/2 foot plecos on that alone, your tiny on
e will be fine.  Our plecos, when he was really hungry, would swim upside down,
 then suck on the surface of the water to eat the flake food as we dropped it i
n.  It was really a sight to see...if yours gets that hungry he'll do the same.


Shadow
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: "jon simkins" <jon.simkins@canrem.com>
Subject: [m] help w/new tank
Reply-To: "jon simkins" <jon.simkins@canrem.com>
Organization: Canada Remote Systems
Distribution: alt
Date: 16 Oct 92 15:08:06 EST

JH>Also, does anyone have a suggestion for good first creatures to add?

I hardly qualify as any kind of expret but Damselfish (Chromis) are
almost indestructable and can survive the nitrite swing better than most
marine fish.

I am also just starting a 20 gallon marine tank and after about six
weeks, I'm still cycling. Your experience sounds almost too good to be
true.
---
  SLMR 2.1a  
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
From: biow@cs.umd.edu (chris biow)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: Adding iron (Was Re: Laterite -- Overdose?)
Date: 10 Oct 92 14:42:22 GMT
Organization: U of Maryland, Dept. of Computer Science, Coll. Pk., MD 20742

In article <2530191@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM> booth@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (George Booth) writes:
>In alt.aquaria, biow@cs.umd.edu (chris biow) writes:

>    Does that mean that DuplaPlant 24 is better? Not really; it's
>    iron so expensive you might as well be purchasing gold. But at
>    the rate of a drop a week in a 55gal tank, it makes sense to
>    use it in conjunction with a cheaper source of iron. Like
>    a rusty nail, maybe...                                                      

>We add 3 drops per day to our 55g tank to maintain 0.1 ppm. 

>George


Yeah, George, that's just because you can't afford high tech equipment
like Sandpoint Rusty Nails (TM). :>
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Subject: Re: (DIY) Aquarium Design
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1992 05:31:31 GMT

In article <BvxvsC.4Jn@news.cso.uiuc.edu> ffujita@s.psych.uiuc.edu (Frank Fujita) writes:
>Well, I don't know anything about building a tank, but maybe someone
>will comment on what type of fish you are going to put in a tank that is
>4" wide.  I'd think that a tank that is that thin will look underful
>even when it is overful.  

Perhaps a school of small tetras or danios?  Can't get anything big, it
will not be able to turn around.  Proper filtration will be very important
and non-trivial.  If carefully planted, it may not look flat, but given the
way the refraction index of water tends to make the normal aquariums look
flat, a "picture" aquarium may look 2-dimensional regardless of what you
do.
-- 
Oleg Kiselev at home			...use the header to find the path
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: ffujita@s.psych.uiuc.edu (Frank Fujita)
Subject: Re: (DIY) Aquarium Design
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1992 04:14:35 GMT

Well, I don't know anything about building a tank, but maybe someone
will comment on what type of fish you are going to put in a tank that is
4" wide.  I'd think that a tank that is that thin will look underful
even when it is overful.  


But hey, I'm still *asking* questions, I'll leave the answering to
others.

Frank Fujita
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:5232 rec.aquaria:7854
From: eyeater@pbs.org
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Acrylic Tanks
Date: 6 Oct 92 17:32:37 EDT
Organization: PBS:Public Broadcasting Service, Alexandria, VA

In article <1992Sep29.171559.7565@unislc.uucp>, chris@unislc.uucp (Chris DelPrete) writes:
> Patti Beadles (patti@hosehead.intel.com) wrote:
> : In article <717725678@kao.cs.duke.edu> kao@duke.cs.duke.edu (Ming Kao) writes:
> : >I am thinking about buying a large acrylic tank. Do acrylic tanks
> : 
> : On the other hand, if a tank does get scratched, it's much easier to
> 
> 
> How is this done?  I have a scratched tank.
> 
> - chris

	I used to have an acrylic tank, and scratches CAN be removed, but
  it's not a pleasant task.  The method I learned removes the scratch by
  actually removing acrylic down to the bottom of the scratch.  One starts 
  with medium-fine wet/dry sandpaper, then fine wet/dry sandpaper, then
  rubbing with progressively finer-grit abrasives, and finally polishing 
  to get rid all the zillions of tiny scratches you've put in with the sand-
  paper.  I got the abrasives from an aquarium shop (they were sold in 
  little color-coded bottles, and the stuff actually feels like "Soft-
  Scrub") and the sandpaper came from the hardware store.
	Like I said, it takes a l-o-n-g time, is hard work, and you have 
  to start with a dry surface, so scratches on the inside of a tank require
  that the tank be drained before work can begin, then cleaned thoroughly
  before re-use, as the buffing compounds are toxic.  Scratches on the 
  outside of a tank are a bit easier, but still pretty time-consuming.
	Also, don't forget that you are removing part of the aquarium, so
  don't go TOO deep, or you may jeopardize the tank's structural integrity.

	Now, I should mention that I did all this about ten years ago,
  so improved methods may have been developed since.  For all I know,
  today you can just paint the gouge with a little "Skratch-B-Gon", and
  away it goes.  But the only way I KNOW is by rubbing and buffing and
  rubbing amd buffing...

  [Eric Yeater, for whom the Public Broadcasting Service is not responsible]
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: cburns@ucs.indiana.edu (Chris Burns)
Subject: Re: Pl...o size (was P....o's and food)
Followup-To: alt.aquaria
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1992 16:25:04 GMT

In article <1992Oct9.143251.26120@mks.com>, fred@mks.com (Fred Kratky)
wrote:
> 
> In article <92282.231750KAB137@psuvm.psu.edu> <KAB137@psuvm.psu.edu> writes:
> 
> >Stuff deleted
> > 
> Some of them - like the clown P.... (Pekoltia) are all relatively small.
> Some others get to be huge.  I do not know if the Huge dudes fit
> conveniently into any one category like Pekoltia.

Generally speaking for the more common Ps seen in stores, 

Pekoltia sp  																	 a few inches (P.pulcher 5ish)  (clowns,
tigers)
Pterygoplicthys sp       potentially huge (12+)											(generic,
butterfly,snow king)
Hypostomous sp           potentially huge (12+)											(generic)
Panaque sp                   upto about 12ish																				(blue-eye,
royal)
Ancistrus sp                 6-8ish
???																																								(bushy-nose)

As a group, Ps tend to be medium to very large, although there are several
smaller species.  If you don't know how big a particular P that you're
interested in gets, assume it gets huge.  Also keep in mind that some Ps
grow much faster than others, and that not all Ps are good at algae
control.  I've found that Pekoltia and Pseudacanthicus are more interested
in rooting around the bottom than eating algae off the sides.  Hypostomous
and Panaque are the best tank scrubbers in my book, with Pterygoplicthys a
close second.  I've no personal experience with Ancistrus.			

Good Luck

Chris
From: eyeater@pbs.org
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: Solution Ground
Date: 15 Oct 92 09:50:25 EDT
Distribution: na
Organization: PBS:Public Broadcasting Service, Alexandria, VA

In article <1992Oct8.142445.4675@cbnewsd.cb.att.com>, philt@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (philip.tomaskovic) writes:
> 
> Has anyone tried the Sandpoint SOlution Ground? Does it seem
> to work? Has anyone put one in after seeing the symptoms of lateral
> line disease and then actually see the disease be cured?
> 
> Thanks
> Phil
> 
> philt@cbnewsd.att.com

	Yeah, what's the deal with this thing?  Are "induced voltages" the 
   Lyme Disease of the fish world? (You know, everybody talks about it, yet
   very few actually get it).  And how could a chunk of titanium and a 
   length of wire POSSIBLY be worth $50?!

	Couldn't one simply use a piece of stainless steel (like, say, an
   old hang-on-the-inside thermometer) clip some wire on the outside-the-
   tank part with an alligator clip, then attach it to the center screw on
   a good grounded outlet? (or appropriate copper cold water pipe).

	Am I missing something?  Or is Sandpoint getting rich?

  [Eric Yeater, for whom the Public Broadcasting Service is not responsible]
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,alt.backrubs,alt.tv.simpsons
From: sonic@cray.com (Curtis L. Swanson)
Subject: Re: Do you all realize what you're doing?
Followup-To: alt.cascade
Distribution: world,local
Date: 14 Oct 92 13:50:43 CDT

"This is a person posting cascades.
        [picture of nice, friendly-looking person]
This is a person posting cascades on newsgroups other than alt.cascade.
        [picture of greasy little preadolescent punk with no class]
Any questions?"
From: IO20614@MAINE.MAINE.EDU
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: Canister Filters
Date: 13 Oct 92 00:52:08 GMT
Organization: University of Maine System


In article <fusion.1ume@terapin.com>, fusion@terapin.com (Jerry Chang) says:
>
>I need some advice about canister filters.
  I've got a Fluval 403 on my 75gal, and it works well with one BIG qualificati
on--I had to modify it by drilling a *small* hole through the inner filtermedia
 section at the top, to allow the pump to clear accumulated air from the system
(this is a strong pump, and      in a well sealed system will pull gas out of s
olution via cavitation) before so much built up that it killed the siphon and c
aused the filter to run dry. It was a big annoyance, but now works well--irrita
ting in a $100 product nonetheless.  > What do canister filters do and how do
>they work to keep a tank clean?
Cannister filters pull water through filter media like sponge, carbon, etc, and
 tend to move more real-world water than box filters.  They are harder to remem
ber to clean, however.
BTW, run your UG with powerheads, if you're not already.  They are one of
THE BEST deals cashwise for improved filtration.  If your arrowana
hates the turbulence, point 'em into the corners.  Best of luck,
  Alex








             ALEX  PARKER              * SHE'S CRAFTY, SHE GETS AROUND
   SELF-APPOINTED (SELF-ABSORBED??)    * SHE'S CRAFTY, SHE'S ALWAYS DOWN
          ** FISH * GURU **            * SHE'S CRAFTY, SHE'S GOT A GRIPE
          U MAINE   ZOOLOGY            * SHE'S CRAFTY, SHE'S JUST MY TYPE
       IO20614@MAINE.MAINE.EDU         *         --BEASTIE BOYS
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,sci.aquaria
From: sjlt@leland.Stanford.EDU (Sean Lev-Tov)
Subject: Re: Need Help With Ick!!!
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 92 02:31:37 GMT

In article <1992Oct07.173620.22215@brtph560.bnr.ca> rzeller@brtph450.bnr.ca (Richard Zeller P860) writes:
>
>I started a fresh water tank (55 gals, w/live plants) a little over a year	
>ago with great success. Until now....
>
>It is a community tank with various fish (tetras, betas, loaches, etc).
>Five days ago I experienced my first outbreak of ICK. This was after buying
>a number of new fish (that looked healthy).
>
>I first tried a product called Aquari-SOS (by Aquarium Products). This required
>I raise the temp of my tank to 86(F) and continue to treat the tank until the 
>ick cleared. I did this for three days and it got much worse. I went from a
>few fish with ick to 90% of my fish.
>
>I called another fish store and they talked me into doing a 50% water change
>and lowering the temp and using their product called Ick Guard (by Jungle
>products).  In the two days since using this, the ick has seem to lessen a bit,
>but this morning I lost two of my original fish (my favorites), 4 inch
>clown loaches.  I have lost about 8 fish total so far.
>
>I am really frustrated!!! How long can I expect the ick to last? What's the
>best way to treat it now and how do I prevent future infections? I was told
>the original infection is usally brought on by a temp. change in the tank,
>which wasn't the case.     HELP....
>
>Thanks:
>Bud

Bud,

When I've had Ick (rather when my fish have had it!), I would raise
the temperature as you did and use either the Mardel liquid medication
or else the tablets by some other company.  I think the other company's
product is calle Super Ick Cure.  It's a card with 8 bubbles for 8 long
tablets that you drop in the tank.  Aquari-SOS sounds like it's a very
general drug.  Maybe it wasn't strong enough.  Also, if you're filtering
with carbon/charcoal you have to stop during treatment while so that
the drug is not removed from the water.   Hope this helps.

Sean

Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Subject: Re: 'stained glass' fish - genuine or modified fakes?
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 05:45:06 GMT

In article <1992Oct6.221911.2334@mnemosyne.cs.du.edu> thester@nyx.cs.du.edu (Uncle Fester) writes:
>Some may consider this practice a harmless novelty.  This is true when the
>consumer is made aware of the way in which this fish attains its color. 

If that was all, it would be only a minor marketing dishonesty.  However,
fish abused this way are traumatized and are prone to infections and most do
not survive long enough to lose the paint.  Buying painted glass fish is a
waste of money.
-- 
Oleg Kiselev at home			...use the header to find the path
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:5274 rec.aquaria:7909
From: biow@cs.umd.edu (chris biow)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: [F] Companions for Angelfish
Date: 9 Oct 92 14:11:03 GMT
Followup-To: alt.aquaria
Organization: U of Maryland, Dept. of Computer Science, Coll. Pk., MD 20742

I would appreciate suggestions on fish to go with a pair of 
angels in a 10-20 gallon tank. I'm more interested in 
aesthetics here than compatibility--I know better than to 
put highly aggressive or alkaline-water loving fish with
Angels.

E-mail please; I'll summarize if there is interest.