HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: bob@sj.ate.slb.com (Bob Firestine)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Realtor who charges only 4% fee
Date: 9 Apr 92 22:49:47 GMT
Reply-To: bob@sj.ate.slb.com (Bob Firestine)
Distribution: ba
Organization: Schlumberger Technologies, San Jose, CA.


I am posting this on behalf of the owner of our building.  Please do not
reply to this posting.  See the phone number below.

Marsh Properties charges a 4% listing fee - 3% goes to the selling broker.

The following services are included:

1. Comparative market analysis of the seller's property

2. Complete the exclusive right to sell listing contract

3. Consult with the seller in completing the transfer disclosure form

4. Enter listing into all multiple listing computer services within five miles
   of the property

5. Install for sale sign

6. Install key box(es) for the appropriate MLS services (if desired)

7. Create and distribute color brochures

8. Hold open house for local realtor tour every two months

There is a charge for other services.

Contact:
	Marsh Properties
	1621 W. El Camino Real
	Mountain, View, CA 94040
	415.940.1123
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: ehrlich@world.std.com (Stuart R Ehrlich)
Subject: Seeking info on 'mechanics lien' on house
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1992 16:33:52 GMT

I seem to recall a 'mechanics lien' can be placed on your home by
suppliers to contractors performing work on your home.

I am having my house painted, and though the cost of the paint can't
be more than several hundred dollars, does anyone have any suggestions
to make sure my painter's supplier doesn't put a mechanics lien on
my home?

I have thought of asking the painter for a copy of his paint bill
From: marks@ssdevo.enet.dec.com (Randy Marks)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Thatching attachment
Date: 12 Apr 92 15:43:48 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Digital Equipment Corp. - Colorado Springs


In article <1992Apr6.150212.3217@meaddata.com>, jsb@meaddata.com (John Belt) writes...
> In the sales 
>stuff for the mower it had an attachment that bolts on the front of the mower
>that rakes up the thatch.  This is not a thatching blade but it looks like
>it is some type of rake.  The individual pieces almost reminds me of a hay
>rake.
> 
>My questions are: Has anyone used this attachment and how well does it work??

I've got precisely this same attachment for my Toro lawnmower.
I find it works quite well.  It is far less damaging to your lawn than
a conventional de-thatcher.  The best part is that it requires
very little additional work.  I put the attachment on my mower for
the first 4 mowings of the year.  After that, I take it off and use
the mower normally.  

	Randy Marks
(UUCP)	                {decvax,ucbvax,allegra}!decwrl!ssdevo.enet!marks
(INTERNET)              marks@ssdevo.enet.dec.com
(domain-based INTERNET) marks%ssdevo.enet@decwrl.dec.com
..........................................................................
	"No man's life, liberty, or property is safe
	while the legislature is in session."
..........................................................................
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Retaining Wall in Yard
Date: 16 Apr 92 01:58:09 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <9465@wrgate.wr.tek.com> davidbu@loowit.wr.tek.com (David E. Buxton) writes:
>Also, them scraps.  Don't burn them.  The arsenic or what ever is
>bound to the wood and is reasonably safe.  However the smoke is
>very toxic and the ashes can be deadly.  Also be careful with the
>sawdust from your cutting.

The *creosote* in used railway ties is not bound very well at all,
and it will leach into the ground.  Creosote is a known carcinogen, and
will, for example, eat certain plastics (particularly electrical
insulation).  It's now considered toxic waste, and creosote is no longer
available in most places.  Railway ties are not a good thing to use as a
wall around a vegetable garden.

Pressure treated lumber is a better, safer choice and will last longer.
If you can afford it.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: timd@juliet.ll.mit.edu ( Tim Dasey )
Subject: Water coils to forced hot air
Organization: M.I.T. Lincoln Lab - Group 43
Distribution: misc.consumers.house
Date: 17 Apr 92 13:50:30

My wife and I are in the process of getting a house built and 
our builder is trying to talk us into a water coils to forced hot
air heating system.  He claims that it is much more efficient
than a conventional oil system (there is no gas on the street), and
since there is only one burner, probably less prone to failure.

As I understand the way this system operates, the wall thermostat
activates a pump which circulates water from the hot water tank into
a set of water coils in the heating unit.  A blower then directs the
heat given off by the coils into the ductwork and throughout the 
house.  My intuition agrees with his assertion that this kind of 
system can be more efficient, but is it worth the money (about $950
extra).

The specific system is an AQUA THERM Air Handler, MAQ Series made by 
First Co. out of Dallas, TX. 

Any advice or information on this kind of heating system or on the
manufacturer of the unit would be greatly appreciated.

--
- Tim Dasey                    | Internet:         timd@ll.mit.edu
  MIT Lincoln Laboratory       | Office:           (617) 981-5991
  Weather Sensing - Group 43   | 
  -------------------------------------------------------------------
    
From: brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 17:28:20 GMT
Subject: Re: Shower Massage Drip
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house

Hmm, this sounds familiar.  I *believe* that you are seeing a vacuum/
siphon effect.  Try disconnecting the hose at the shower head (to
break the vacuum) then see if the drip stops.  If this is the case,
you should be able to get a vacuum breaker from Teledyne.  I used
to have a shower massage, and remember them saying that the units
destined for Los Angeles had the breaker.  (Must be local code.)

Pete Brooks

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: cornutt@lambda.msfc.nasa.gov (David Cornutt)
Subject: Re: Dealing w/neighborhood cats?
Organization: NASA/MSFC
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 23:00:33 GMT

jdpierc@mirkwood.hayward.ca.us (Jerry Pierce) writes:


>Well, it seems the neighborhood cats have gotten used to
>using our garden area as their own private "restroom".  (To
>be as polite as possible)  :-)

>We've tried the various powders which are supposed to
>keep them away, but an hour or two after it's applied we
>can go out and literally find 2 or 3 fresh "presents".

This is kind of wierd, but try leaving (peeled) banannas around.
I've noticed that my cat *hates* the smell of banannas.  If you
wave one under his nose, he'll run away from it.
DISCLAIMER: I have not tried this on any other cats.

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patti@nestor.uucp (80122-stankovich)
Subject: Re: How Can I Stop My Dog from Digging Holes in our yard ?
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: misc
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 92 16:12:43 GMT

In article <1992Apr8.200958.26798@infonode.ingr.com> tan@infonode.ingr.com (Maribel Tan) writes:
>
My husband dragged him to the holes he digged and spanked him on 
>his nose. He seems to have a so short-term memory to remember what is 
>WRONG. 

You're first mistake is dragging him over and then spanking him
AFTER THE FACT.  The poor dog has no clue as to why he's being
punished.  If you can't punish him while he doing something wrong,
it's too late.  

As to why he's digging holes, some breeds just like to dig.  We
have two huskies and we built their kennel on plywood, otherwise
they would have dug themselves out right under the fence.  Do
you leave him any toys to play with when he's out there?  He
really does need something to keep him occupied.  Dogs get bored
just like people.  Try leaving toys and chew bones around for him.
Encourage him to play with them.  This may help with the problem,
at least a little.

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis)
Subject: Re: Seeking info on 'mechanics lien' on house
Organization: OSF Research Institute
Distribution: usa
Date: 6 Apr 92 19:52:01

In article <BMAooH.6z2@world.std.com> ehrlich@world.std.com (Stuart R Ehrlich) writes:

   I seem to recall a 'mechanics lien' can be placed on your home by
   suppliers to contractors performing work on your home. ... [how] to
   make sure my painter's supplier doesn't put a mechanics lien on my
   home?

Very simple.  At the end of the job (in fact, if you're punctilious,
after each payment), have the contractor and all subcontractors and
suppliers sign lien waivers.  This is a standard form which basically
says "Received, from OWNER, $XX, which is what I was owed as of DATE,
for work done to PROPERTY.  I waive any right to put a lien on that
property for work done on or before DATE."

The above wording is not guaranteed to be correct.  I am not a lawyer.
For precise wording, check any book on dealing with contractors.
Recommendation below.

	-s

----------------

I can highly recommend a book which covers both house buying and
working with contractors.  Do not be put off by its title; I would
recommend it even if you are buying a standard house or building an
addition to your existing house.

	Everything you need to know about Building the Custom House:
		How to be your own General Contractor
	by John Folds and Roy Hoopes
	Taylor Publishing, Dallas

Although it seems to be very specific to building a new custom house,
in fact it gives excellent advice on all phases of buying a house or
lot (including evaluating it, bargaining, financing, etc.) as well as
finding contractors, negociating with them, etc.  It assumes you are
going to be your own general contractor, but even if you are not, its
advice is pertinent and useful.

I find it much better than Bob Vila's book on house buying, and also
better than House Buying Step-by-Step (which was the best among the
other books I found at the bookstore).

It's unfortunate that its title makes its scope seem so narrow.
From: fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com (Fred Christiansen)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: urethane spray foam insulation
Date: 8 Apr 92 23:49:48 GMT
Organization: Motorola Computer Grp (TSD), Tempe (Arizona, 14th in apple production)

Anybody chosen to have sprayed-in urethane foam insulation installed
in their exterior walls instead of fiberglass batts?

It seems to me that one never really achieves the nominal R-rating
(approx R3/inch) with batts because of gaps, compression, dust infiltration,
etc.  However, with sprayed-in foam, well done, you could get uniform
R7/inch (true?).

How do they compare cost-wise?  What's the payback?  Any negatives, such as
curing or persistent odor, irritants, allergies?

I've been thinking 2x6 walls with R-19 batts plus 1" white styrofoam (R3.6?)
with stucco over ext sheathing.  Might be able to cut out some of the up-front
costs by going to 2x4 walls with 3" sprayed foam and stucco directly over
the sheathing (+ felt paper).

Interestingly, around here, folk are putting 2" foam on roofs (over sheathing),
but, due to esthetics, just on flat roofs (and not pitched roofs).
-- 
Fred Christiansen, Motorola TSD (DW278), 2900 S. Diablo Way, Tempe, AZ  85282
fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com  ||  uunet!phx.mcd.mot.com!fredch  ||  +1 602-438-3464
  For the Lord gives wisdom:  out of His mouth comes knowledge
    and understanding (Prov 2:6).
Organization: North Dakota Higher Education Computer Network
Date: Tuesday, 14 Apr 1992 10:30:12 CDT
From: John A. Williams <UD044485@NDSUVM1.BITNET>
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: re:incomplete flushing

Sounds like a problem I recently had with a toilet. Two easy possibilities;
1) insufficient water in tank, 2) valve is closing too soon, leaving too much
water in the tank. The second problem was the case with my toilet and I re-
placed the valve and had no trouble afterwards.

John A. Williams
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: stern@nsinic.gsfc.nasa.gov (Inventor of stirr-fried sushi)
Subject: mice summary
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA Science Internet Network Information Center
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1992 18:43:00 GMT

Thank you all for the tips on getting rid of mice.  Here's a summary:

* Apparently peanut butter is one of the most irresistable baits
* Someone suggested mothballs to keep mice away
* Sonic repellant aren't worth a damn
* The most popular idea was to get a cat. Note that not all cats are mousers.
   Regardless, this isn't an option fro me for various reasons
* If all else fails, call the professionals. Their cost is reasonable


Dave Stern

################################################################################
#           NSI/DECnet Routing Center Manager  (Formerly SPAN)
#           Goddard Space Flight Center
#
# DECnet-   NSINIC::STERN
# INTERNET- STERN@NSINIC.GSFC.NASA.GOV
# BITnet-   STERN@DFTBIT
# SNAILmail-Code 930.4   Bldg 28 Rm W205J
#           Goddard Space Flight Center
#           Greenbelt, MD 20771
# Audio-    301-286-6079
################################################################################

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: moody@e4.ius.cs.cmu.edu (James Moody)
Subject: Brick walk tips/advice RECEIVED!!
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 92 19:17:17 GMT
Organization: CMU Vision and Autonomous Systems Center
Reply-To: moody@cs.cmu.edu

I already received a number of informative replies to my post this morning:

1) Apparantly it's a bad idea to use normal bricks as paving stones since 
they are more susceptable to spalling.  I'd end up redoing my sidewalk in 
about two years if I use the wrong stuff.

2) Sand (or, better yet, stone dust) is preferred to concrete as a bed for 
the paving blocks.

Thanks, everyone, for you help.

-- 
James E. Moody Jr.	The Robotics Institute		(412) 268-2847
			Carnegie Mellon (University)	      CMU-BUGS
			Schenley Park
moody@cs.cmu.edu	Pittsburgh, PA 15213
From: sjreeves@eng.auburn.edu (Stan Reeves)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: neighbor's tree
Date: 16 Apr 92 21:59:09 GMT
Organization: Auburn University Engineering

In article <1992Apr15.201132.21144@donner.SanDiego.NCR.COM> shin@tara.SanDiego.NCR.COM (Chang Shin) writes:
>I live in a house on the hill with a little bit of view thru the fence. There
>is a slope by the fence and there are trees starting to block my view. I asked
>my neigbor if that slope belongs to him. He said he has easement on the slope.
>When I asked whether I can trim the tree politely, he was upset saying
>we don't have privacy so leave the tree alone. He even said he would like
>to plant a hugh tree so that we won't see anything. I was kind of surprised
>from his reaction. We hardly watch over their land or don't care what they
>were doing in their yard. I apolozied to him if I offended him in any way and
>left him. Any suggestion to resolve this conflict would be appreciated.

There was an article on the front page of Wednesday's Wall Street Journal
called "Neighbors Seeking To Better Their Lot Are Often Up a Tree."  It
was a pretty interesting article about the conflicts between neighbors
when one neighbor's trees block the other neighbor's view.  Some of the
stories were pretty unbelievable!


--
Stan Reeves
Auburn University, Department of Electrical Engineering, Auburn, AL  36849
INTERNET: sjreeves@eng.auburn.edu
From: macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Things to look for when buying a house
Date: 13 Apr 92 22:54:54 GMT
Article-I.D.: next4.MACRAKIS.92Apr13155454
	<MACRAKIS.92Apr6194458@next4.osf.org> <1992Apr09.023534.1460@sco.COM>
Organization: OSF Research Institute

Rogerv and I agree that house buyers should consider energy costs in
budgeting.

All we disagree on is whether this is ``the critical factor''.

Peace.

	-s
From: lisa@hpfcbig.SDE.HP.COM (Lisa Stroyan)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: home rug cleaners
Date: 16 Apr 92 16:50:16 GMT
Organization: HP SESD, Fort Collins, CO

(I tried to mail this to you, but it bounced; maybe others will have
insight anyway).

> It just so happens that we rented a Rug Doktor this weekend.  I must say it
> worked pretty impressively.  Operation was very simple and quick with all
> directions listed on the cleaner itself.

Hi.  Thanks for the post about your rug experiences.  Can you tell me how
long it took to clean your 1200 square feet of carpet, including setup of
the machine, etc?  How often did you have to replace the dirty water?

We are going to be buying a house and selling a condo a bit after we
move into the house.  We were thinking of getting carpets in the house
cleaned before we move in.  The house is big, and we would only have
about a day to do it or have it done before we move (and we might want
to spend the time moving!)  So I am trying to figure out if it would
be worth it to do it ourselves.  My husband borrowed his brother's
carpet cleaner to clean the condo once before, and he said it took him
most of the day for the ~1000 sq foot place. (That might be with a
much less powerful cleaner machine).  But if it would take us at least
a long day to do the house, then we will probably go ahead and hire
someone.

Thanks for your help!

Lisa


Lisa Stroyan 	
HP Software Engineering Systems Division
Fort Collins, CO				
lisa@fc.sde.hp.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: jsb@meaddata.com (John Belt)
Subject: Thatching attachment
Organization: Mead Data Central, Dayton OH
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1992 15:02:12 GMT
Distribution: na

Because of the lack of rain last year alot of my lawn became brown.  As I 
had read I thought it had just gone dormant and would come back when the 
rain started.  Most of it has but in the areas where it hasn't, it looks
like I had a case of grubs.  The areas that need work are not one large
area but a lot of little ones about 3-6 inches in dia.  In the sales 
stuff for the mower it had an attachment that bolts on the front of the mower
that rakes up the thatch.  This is not a thatching blade but it looks like
it is some type of rake.  The individual pieces almost reminds me of a hay
rake.

My questions are: Has anyone used this attachment and how well does it work??

Thanks in advance to all of your help.


--
John Belt                                               (513) 865-1328   
Mead Data Central                                                      
P.O. Box 933                                          jsb@meaddata.com
Dayton, Ohio  45401                                     uunet!mead!jsb
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: thomson@hub.toronto.edu (Brian Thomson)
Subject: Re: Inspection clauses (Re: Things to look for when buying a house)
Organization: University of Toronto
Date: 10 Apr 92 21:39:20 GMT

In article <mjc.702672303@NL.CS.CMU.EDU> mjc+@cs.cmu.edu (Monica Cellio) writes:
>
>The wording my realtor offerred me (which I rejected) was something like:
>"...contingent upon an inspection that turns up no significant problems
>(where significant is defined as costing more than $500 to fix)".  I 
>insisted that there be a "total limit" as well, so I didn't get hit with
>a dozen $499 problems, and so mine included the phrase "...or $1500 in
>the aggregate", which wording was supplied by my lawyer.  This still left
>open the question of what defines a problem that has to be fixed; I would
>suggest something like: "contingent upon an inspection that turns up no
>problems rated as "marginal" or "failed" by a qualified ASHI inspector that
>cost more than $X each or $Y in the aggregate".  If you can get away with
>it, try for the even more general "contingent on an inspection satisfactory
>to the buyer" -- this lets *you* define "satisfactory" (but they probably
>won't go for it).

You must realize that the buyer's agent is very interested in making an
offer that will be maximally attractive to the seller, and not necessarily
in the best interests of the buyer.  My agent suggested "an inspection by
a qualified professional inspector that does not reveal any major
deficiencies" (not really a literal quote, but it did just say "major"
without defining it).

Well, you can imagine that I did not like that.
I insisted on "an inspection by a qualified professional inspector,
the results of which are satisfactory to me", arguing that I was only
asking for a 3-day window to do this in, and if they were confident in
the quality of the house then 3 days was not too much to ask.
And, if I turned out to be a jerk, the house would only be off the market
for those 3 days.  My agent did not argue, the sellers accepted the offer,
the inspection turned up some minor stuff I didn't worry about,
I signed the waiver, and everyone was happy.
-- 
		    Brian Thomson,	    CSRI Univ. of Toronto
		    utcsri!uthub!thomson, thomson@hub.toronto.edu
From: ostroff@Oswego.EDU (Boyd Ostroff)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: How to get rid of mildew smell in bathroom?
Date: 9 Apr 92 01:14:13 GMT
Reply-To: ostroff@oswego.Oswego.EDU (Boyd Ostroff)
Distribution: na
Organization: Instructional Computing Center, SUNY at Oswego, Oswego, NY

In article <1992Apr8.173706.2420@oakhill.sps.mot.com> stevee@oakhill.sps.mot.com (Stephen Elmendorf) writes:
>I have a bit of a problem. In the last few weeks, we have noticed a smell of 
>mildew in our upstairs master bath. 

>It almost seems like it is coming from the drain, but is that
>possible? 

I'd say it's likely; we've had the same problem which keeps coming back.
The best thing I've used is a product called "K67 Bacterial Drain and Trap
Cleaner" by the "Roebic" company.  I'm sure there are other similar products.
It is an organic product which uses bacteria to eat the crud in your drain
traps.  Mix with water, pour into the drain and leave overnight.

Another thing which I've found effective is using a toilet plunger
to flush out the traps regularly.  Of course this could also be 
symptomatic of an improperly vented (clogged?) drainage system.  If the
water is getting sucked out of the trap then bad smells will emerge
from your bathtub drain.  I don't think you mentioned whether you had
a septic system or city sewers. An over-full septic tank (perhaps from
high water table in the Spring) can cause this kind of problem too. 

.............................................................................
....Boyd Ostroff / Technical Director / SUNY Oswego Department of Theatre....
...............Voice: (315) 341-2987 /  Fax: (315) 341-3394..................
..............ostroff@oswego.oswego.edu / ostroff@cboard.UUCP................
From: jfarran@rtfm.acs.uci.edu (Joseph Farran)
Subject: Re: Brick walk tips/advice needed
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Organization: University of California, Irvine
Date: 15 Apr 92 23:01:09 GMT

In article <1992Apr13.114015.34491@cs.cmu.edu> moody@cs.cmu.edu writes:
>I want to replace our concrete front walk with a brick walkway.  I don't
>want to use interlocking paving stone, rather I want to use bricks I 
>already have, and I plan to mortar them together.  After thinking about
>this for awhile it seems that the best way to build a good walk would be
>to put in a concrete base first, then mount the bricks on top.

 Ah!  This brings me to ask:   Does anyone know how one can make the
 standard (common red) bricks shine? 

 We had some brick work done last summer and they looked very nice.  With
 time and rain, they build up white calcium deposits which makes them look
 somewhat ugly and dull.   So, what can I put on them to make them shiny
 as in these beautiful brick paved entrances one sees in magazines?

 Someone mentioned using Thompson's water sealer on the bricks - which
 will make them shine.   Has anyone tried this with good results?

 Joseph