HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis)
Subject: Re: 1st Time Buyer Advise
Organization: OSF Research Institute
Date: 1 Sep 92 11:52:04

In article <1743@pacvax.UUCP> lynne@pacersoft.com (Lynne Chantler) writes:

   I am new to the net and looking forward to being a home owner soon.
   I am considering buying a two-family.  ...I would prefer to own my
   home and I think I can do this if I have part of the house giving
   me a rental income.

   I also understand that there are several programs for first time home
   buyers, but really don't know where to start researching this.

   I would really appreciate any advise regarding owner/occupied rental
   property, both pros and cons.  I would also appreciate any information
   you can give to help me start looking for financing.

There are two issues here: financing and running an owner-occupied
rental.

The good news about financing is that Fannie Mae (or was it Freddie
Mac) just revised its rules for accounting for owner-occupied two- or
three- family rental income.  Until a few years ago, rental income
could be subtracted directly from housing expenses to calculate the
servicing ratio.  When the number of defaults started soaring, they
changed the rule so that rental income is simply added to general
income.  This means you need much higher income to qualify.  Now the
rule has changed again, and is somewhere between the two (I don't know
the exact rule).

You will probably have to check with several banks and mortgage
companies before you find one that understands all this.  You should
not be satisfied until you find a loan officer who can explain the
calculation to you in understandable terms, such that you could repeat
the calculation yourself (short of that, the loan officer probably
doesn't really understand it him/herself, and s/he may end up
misleading you unwittingly).

Once you find such a lender, they should be able to calculate what you
can afford to finance, based on your income, other debts and expenses,
and your savings.

As for owner-occupied rentals, we own a two-family and rent the
upstairs.  As always with rentals, the quality of the tenants is
important.  It is particularly important here because if you have any
problems with noise, cleanliness, security-consciousness (locking the
door on the way out), etc., these problems affect you directly.  On
the other hand, a good tenant can actually add to your security by
occupying the house when you're not there.

One pitfall to avoid is a house where the two units aren't well
separated.  You don't want tenants to have to go through your area to
get to the laundry room, or take out the garbage, or whatever.  You
also want to make sure that the acoustic insulation is good.  (This is
tricky.)

Good luck!

	-s


Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: jfw@jfwhome.FUNHOUSE.COM (John F. Woods)
Subject: Re: Telephone Outlets
Followup-To: sci.electronics
Organization: Misanthropes-R-Us
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 03:07:13 GMT

EE geek talk ahead.  misc.consumers.house regulars who are bored by the
Spread Spectrum thread should hit 'n' now.
In <1992Aug31.164957.83@forsyth.wsnc.org> thompson@forsyth.wsnc.org writes:
>In article <BtMJry.JJF@hatch.socal.com>, richg@hatch.socal.com (Rich Greenberg) writes:
>> Spread Spectrum  _Very Simplified_:
>> At intervals, the radio transmitter stops transmitting at f(n) and
>> starts transmitting at f(n+1).
>Hate to disagree, but the description you give of "spread spectrum" bears
>better on the term "frequency agile."  A spread spectrum system encodes
>different portions of the data to be modulated on carriers of different
>frequencies.

What he is describing is "Frequency Hopping Spread Spectrum" and is the
easiest SS scheme to describe.  What you appear to be trying to describe is
"Direct Sequence Spread Spectrum" where a digital pseudo-random noise sequence
is used to modulate the carrier, and the real modulation signal is used to
modulate the PRN generator (essentially).  There is also "Chirp Spread
Spectrum" where the carrier is swept across a wide range of frequencies,
and "Time Hopping Spread Spectrum", where the carrier is turned on and
off by a PRN generator with a very low duty cycle (the rapid keying spreads
out the sidebands).  There are also hybrid systems employing pairs of these
basic types, with frequency-hopping and direct-sequence being the favorite
pair.

Further beating to death of this topic ought to happen in sci.electronics
and maybe rec.radio.amateur.misc.
From: erickson@atlas.cs.nps.navy.mil (David Erickson)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Spray Foam Follies
Date: 27 Aug 92 20:17:16 GMT
Reply-To: erickson@taurus.cs.nps.navy.mil (David Erickson)
Organization: Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey CA

In article <1965@wdi.COM> pestes@wdi.COM (Laurin Pestes x82570) writes:
>I tried some of the aerosol expanding foam insulation 
>around a prehung door I installed recently. It filled 
>up the gaps too well, oozing out of the gap, although
>it was easily trimmed off later. The real greif came 
>later when I tried to close the door again. The door 
>wouldn't close, but ran into the jamb instead.
 
>Laurin (wondering how to insulate the next door) 

We used some EPDM gaskets from RCT (Resource Conservation Technology).
They are very flexible and retain the flexibility even after years
of service, so if the house shifts, or the wood expands/contracts,
the gap will remain filled.  They are easy to install, and come in
a variety of sizes and shapes.  We used three different kinds:
one between the wall plate and the slab, one to fill the gaps around
windows and doors, and one at all exterior wall junctions, which
sealed the sheetrock/framing joint.  We decided not to use tyvek or
an equivalent, relying on interior paint to act as a moisture barrier.
Besides, we don't get severe winters here.

Dave Erickson
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: carpenter ant
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 92 16:56:14 GMT
Keywords: Ant

In article <391@yak.COM> clg2521@yak.COM (Cindy Guo) writes:
>Hi
>
>I am sorry to bring up this subject again. 
>
>What does carpenter ants look like ? Can I ignore them if they don't get to inside of the house ? How can I get rid of them ? Any information would be appreciated.

Carpenter ants are black. They are most often seen in two sizes, one about
1/8" long and the other about 1/4" long. Larger ones are sometimes seen.
You cannot ignore them because they (like just about anything else) reproduce
and multiply. When the colony gets too big, they send out scouts and some
of the colony moves. Maybe into your house.

I would recommend that you call a local extermination company that's been
around a few years. Check them out with BBB or whatever, and let them
check out the property. Once you see them take care of the problem, you
can decide whether to do it yourself next time. If there are nests close
to you, spraying for them becomes part of your yearly maintenance.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | If you take a dog which is starving and feed him
George Patterson -  | and make him prosperous, that dog will not bite
                    | you. This is the primary difference between a dog
                    | and a man.             Samuel Clemens
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: egreen@east.sun.com (Ed Green - Pixel Cruncher)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Credit report
Date: 2 Sep 92 16:51:12 GMT
Reply-To: egreen@east.sun.com
Organization: Sun Microsystems, RTP, NC
NNTP-Posting-Host: laser.east.sun.com

In article 87647@netnews.upenn.edu, kaplan@sol1.lrsm.upenn.edu (Peter Kaplan -Yodh) writes:
>
>One more thing about the original post:  It's TRW's responsibility to
>verify and remove information that you challenge.  

Actually, it is not.  TRW will simply ask the originator of the
information to confirm its accuracy.  They will not independantly
verify anything.

>It is not your
>responsibility to coerce the source of innaccurate information into
>cleaning your record for you.

If the source of inaccurate information maintains that it is indeed
accurate, that is exactly your responsibility.  TRW is under no legal
obligation to you (how could they be, you don't pay them anything! :^)

For more information, read the misc.consumers FAQ on credit, found in
new.answers, or available via ftp from pit-manager.mit.edu
[18.172.1.27], or from the mail server
mail-server@pit-manager.mit.edu.

---
Ed Green, former Ninjaite |I was drinking last night with a biker,
  Ed.Green@East.Sun.COM   |and I showed him a picture of you.  I said,
DoD #0111  (919)460-8302  |"Go on, get to know her, you'll like her!"
 (The Grateful Dead) -->  |It seemed like the least I could do...
From: gt@hpfcbig.SDE.HP.COM (George Tatge)
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 20:55:15 GMT
Subject: Re: Deadbolt in steel door
Organization: HP SESD, Fort Collins, CO
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house


>Buy a hole saw designed for use on metal. I think Diston (amoung others)
>makes some. Make sure you get the correct size, 'cause they ain't cheap.
>Most hardware stores carry them.

Or, you can go to the local tool rental and rent a door handle 
installation kit (eg. the one by Kwikset) which should have all
the bits you need (make sure it has one of the right size for metal)
as well as jigs which will help you get the holes in the right place.


gt

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: carter@spot.Colorado.EDU (Mike Carter)
Subject: Re: suggested weapons (was: Killing burglars.)
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 15:29:54 GMT

sbarnhar@mailbox.mail.umn.edu (Dr. Barnhart) writes:


>I know someone who was hit in the chest with shot while pheasant hunting,
>but a hundred yards downrange at the bottom of the pellet arc.  He said the
>pellets just bounced off, although he was a little frightened.

Having been shot with a shotgun while hunting (accident, dumb farm kid, ~50
yards, 12ga, #5 shot, 3" magnum shell), I can relate some personal experience.
The shot that hit my insulated Levi jacket just bounced off.  The shot that hit
my legs covered with long underwear and Levis left bruises/welts.  The single
shot that hit the back of my left hand left also left a bloody bruise and welt.
The three shot that hit me in the face penetrated to the bone level.  These
three shot are still in my face as removing them would leave bigger scars than 
were created on entry and lead is pretty inert.

Not that this discussion belongs in misc.consumers.house any longer but the
scariest part on being shot was my reaction to it.  I could literally see the
cloud of shot before it hit me and I did have an instant reaction to duck my
head or I would have probably lost my eye.  An instant after the shot hit, I
hit the ground.  I  remained down a second or two.  After the shock of being
hit left,  I rebounded to my feet with *my gun* pointed directly at the head
of the kid who shot me with the safety off and my fingers trembling.  All of
this was an instant reaction to the event.  I had no conscience knowledge of
what I was doing until my brother gently removed the gun from my hands.  My
`fight' reaction could have easily turned a stupid accident into a tragedy.

-- 
				- Mike
				  carter@spot.Colorado.EDU
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: samf@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Sam Fairchild)
Subject: Re: Ceiling problems when installing new drywall
Organization: The Ohio State University
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 19:00:45 GMT

How about just caulking the joint with plaster?  Use a refillable caulking tube
and fill it with plaster (the kind that doesn't harden *too* quickly).  :-)
OTOH, my personal preferance is a nice wide crown moulding.
Sam Fairchild
=============
From: alanj@endeavor18.tek.com (Alan Jeddeloh)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Beware when prewiring for telephone
Date: 27 Aug 92 15:48:13 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Tektronix, Inc.

In article <Aug.27.10.08.02.1992.23574@cadenza.rutgers.edu> masticol@cadenza.rutgers.edu (Steve Masticola) writes:
>tslee@oracle.uucp (Terry Lee) writes:
>
>>I plan to
>>run new wire, and save the old for two circuits of rs232.  Hopefully, that 
>>wont crosstalk >8-(
>
>Don't bet on it... RS-232 is a pulsed format. As such, it will likely
>crosstalk worse than voice on the flat stranded wire.
>
>If you're running the twisted pair for the phone anyway, run something
>for the computers at the same time, preferably in the same cable
>bundle. As a non-expert on networks, I'll leave the problem of which
>format to use (Ethernet, et. al.) to the other netters.

Don't use POTS (Plain Old Telephone Service) wire to run a LAN in the furture.
POTS wiring is not rated for the speed (not enough twists/inch) and you will
have cross-talk from hell.

There are five levels of cabling defined.  The definition was started by
Anixter, a wiring service company, and is being picked up by other vendors
(or so I'm told).  The following is from an Anixter flyer:

Level 1	Voice
	For analog and digital voice and low speed data up to 20kbps.
	AKA "POTS"

Level 2	ISDN & Low Speed Data
	For IBM Type 3 media, up to 1 Mhz.

Level 3	LAN & Medium Speed Data
	Supports ANSI/EIA/TIA-568 Commercial Building Telecom Wiring Standard.
	For speeds up to 16 Mhz (e.g., Ethernet and Token Ring).

Level 4	Extended Distance LAN
	Same speeds as Level 3, better distances.

Level 5	High Speed LAN
	Unshielded Twisted Pair (100 ohm).  Supports 100 Mbps CDDI.
	Also available is Shielded Twisted Pair (150 ohm) speeds to 100 Mhz.

If I were prewiring my home for voice and thinking about a household LAN at
the same time, I'd run 4 pairs of Level 3.  That gives 2 voice lines and
a LAN available at any given point.  If I *really* wanted to be Ready For The
Future, I'd try running Level 5 cabling.

--
    Alan Jeddeloh      W:(503) 685-2991  H:(503) 292-9740
    Tektronix, Inc.  D/S 60-850; PO Box 1000; Wilsonville, OR 97070
    Alan.Jeddeloh@tek.com          Let sleeping dogs^H^H^H^Hbabies lie
    You can put the children to bed, but you can't make them sleep!
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: finkej@ts.its.rpi.edu (Jon E. Finke)
Subject: Re: Spray Foam Follies
Summary: May void warrentee 
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 13:06:08 GMT

In article 1965@wdi.COM, pestes@wdi.COM (Laurin Pestes x82570) writes:
>I tried some of the aerosol expanding foam insulation 
>around a prehung door I installed recently. It filled 
>up the gaps too well, oozing out of the gap, although
>it was easily trimmed off later. The real greif came 
>later when I tried to close the door again. The door 
>wouldn't close, but ran into the jamb instead.
> 
>As it set, the foam expanded and forced the door jambs 
>out about 3/8 inch, even though they were fastened with 
>several large (#10, 3 inch long) screws on both sides. 

I installed several "Wenco" casement windows last fall, and their 
instructions stated specifically that the warrentee on the windows was
void if you used this type of insulation around them.  (I packed in some
scraps of pink fiberglass instead.)



-- 
Jon Finke                              finkej@rpi.edu
Senior Network Systems Engineer        USERB239@RPITSMTS.BITNET
Information Technology Services        518 276 8185 (voice)
Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute       518 276 2809 (fax)
From: janowsky@math.rutgers.edu (Steven Janowsky)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: safety vs suggested weapons
Date: 28 Aug 92 16:13:59 GMT
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

In article <27AUG199213073583@utkvx2.utk.edu> drevik@utkvx2.utk.edu (Drevik, Steve) writes:

> Recommended load:  first round would a hand-packed salt round (I'm
> a liberal and my goal is to scare the guy off).  Second round is
> run-of-the-mill birdshot.  Last five rounds are 00 buckshot (BIG pellets
> and the guy won't get up).

In order to have different loads in the weapon you have to store it
loaded.  Not necessarily a good idea.

I think you want an easy to load weapon so you can store it unloaded.

This would rule out revolvers for me.

SJ
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: cotton@cbnewsi.cb.att.com (carol.jean.swanson)
Subject: Re: wood floor or carpet?
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 13:34:17 GMT

We just moved into our first house in April and
was trying to decide the same type of issue.  The rugs
in the house we old and didn't look nice.  We decided to
*atleast* pull up the one in the master bedroom 'cause even
if the wood below looked horrible it's be better than the rug!
Also, if it was really abd we figures we'd get it recarpeted.
Turns out the floor, though not perfect, was in above average
shape.  We had lots of staples from the padding (it wasn't installed
well!) but once we got them out,
you can't tell where the staples were.  The carpet stipping
was difficult to get up without stratching the floor.  It worked
best for us to use a flat screwdiver or putty knife and gently work them
out.  The painter we had come in suggested we use butcher's block
wax to help concels some of the scratches.

hope this helps.

-- Carol
From: jthomas@brtph98.bnr.ca (James Thomas P215)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Advice: Sundance Spas
Date: 31 Aug 92 19:35:48 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, RTP, NC


    I am considering buying a Sundance Cameo 800 Spa (which
happens to be a "Best Buy" in Consumers Digest this month,
although we did not know that before deciding on it).  Anyway,
has anyone purchased a Sundance Spa who would like to talk
me out of it?  Also, if anyone is familiar with pricing of this
model, CD has it at $6100, which is EXACTLY what my local dealer
wants for it.  He claims that there is zero price flexibility
on his side.  I remember reading here a while back that $500
should not be a surprising drop from asking price in this
industry.  Any bargaining tips?
From: ecl@cbnewsj.cb.att.com (Evelyn C. Leeper)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Mice
Date: 30 Aug 92 05:50:07 GMT
Organization: AT&T

In article <1992Aug29.190502.13547@alw.nih.gov> sullivan@alw.nih.gov (Jim Sullivan) writes:
> comming in the house on the same side as the kitchen.  I assumed there must
> be a few holes in the exterior of the house letting the bugs enter but when I
> went out with a caulk gun in hand, I found big (1" or larger) holes which mice
> could enter through.  I spent a weekend and 10 tubes of caulk filling up every
> hole I could find.  Even the really small ones.  I now have NO bugs or mice 

If your only problem is mice (not bugs), plugging the holes with coarse
steel wool will work also.  (Not elegant as a permanent solution, but
certainly keeps them out until you can do something more permanent.)

Evelyn C. Leeper  |  +1 908 957 2070  |  att!mtgzy!ecl or  ecl@mtgzy.att.com
--
"IQ describes how big your gas tank is, but it doesn't tell if you're
running on empty." -- Harvey Newstrom (hnewstro@x102c.ess.harris.com)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: pkrause@triton.unm.edu (Paul Krause CIRT)
Subject: Re: escrow shortages
Date: Thu, 03 Sep 92 14:57:26 GMT
Organization: University of New Mexico, Albuquerque
Distribution: usa

In article <1992Sep1.195617.14183@dg-rtp.dg.com> eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com writes:
>I don't know about your contract or Ohio law, but in our recent purchase, the
>lawyer was careful to point out that the tax proration settlement was based
>on estimates, and that if these turned out to be incorrect when the tax bill
>came around, both parties were obliged to settle in an equitable manner --
>so perhaps you CAN collect from the seller.
>
There seem to be many regional variations in real estate practice and custom.
My closing statements always say the tax is estimated, but the buyer is
responsible.  Expecting a buyer and seller who closed months ago to come to
an "equitable" settlement seems like an invitation to litigation.  If this 
were a frequent problem I would think the closing (title?) company would 
hold some $ in escrow pending the actual tax bill.  That is what they do
around here with the final water bill.

Paul
From: kent@lightnin.Columbia.NCR.COM (Kent Richardson)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Replacing Vinyl Flooring
Keywords: flooring
Date: 25 Aug 92 16:36:21 GMT
Organization: NCR Corp, E&M-Columbia, Columbia, SC


	I'm am currently remodeling a kitchen and was wondering if there are any flooring experts out there on the net.  I have talked to a couple of people, at Lowes and Home Quarters, about replacing linoleum and this left me with a few options to decide on. I was looking for advice or experiences of others on this  project. Below are listed the different options I have so far.

	1.  I first wanted to remove the old linoleum before putting in a new    	    piece.  If I pull it up I've been told I must remove all of the                 old glue from the floor. I was wondering if there was a solvent that
	    could be used to do this that would not affect the glue for the new 
	    floor. I was told asbestos used to be used in the glue but my 
	    house is only 6 yr. old so I didn't think this would be a concern?

	2.  Both people I spoke to suggested leaving the old floor down and 
	    placing a layer of 1/4" or less wood on top of it. My concern with
 	    this method is that the new floor would barely clear the bottom of 
	    the door if it is 1/4" higher. Also the current floor goes under the
	    plate that is mounted to the floor under the door(name?). If I add
	    1/4" to the floor how would I join the new floor to this strip, 
	    since it obviously can't be raised. The only thing I could think of 
	    would be to cut the linoleum straght along this plate (would 
	    probably look like hell). Any suggestions?

	3.  There is an adhesive that can be used to put linoleum over old
	    linoleum, but I was told that if this is done the depressions in
	    the old pattern would probably show through the new linoleum after
	    some time.


I would like to the this job the best way possible. If that means removing the 
old and 25 hours of sanding, then if an alternative way is almost as good I 
would rather use the alternative.
					Thanks in advance!!!!!!
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Spray Foam Follies
From: gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston)
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 92 21:09:00 CDT
Organization: Garys' Home for Obsolete Computers

jasonc@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Jason Chodora) writes:

> While we're complaining about spray foam....
> 
> I was unfortunate enough to get a little bit of spray foam onto my
> kitchen floor.  The floor is linoleum, and I can't find a way to get the
> foam off !  I can't scrape it off without cutting the floor.  Every
> solvent I have tried hasn't made a dent in the stuff.  Any ideas ???

Very carefully shave it off with a razor blade scraper. You should be
able to get all but a very thin layer off.

Gary Heston, at home....
gary@cdthq.uucp
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: peri@cco.caltech.edu (Michal Leah Peri)
Subject: Re: Best Hardware Store
Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 18:51:09 GMT

walker@eplrx7.es.duPont.com (Scott Walker) writes:

>As a soon to be first time homeowner, I was wondering what the net.opinion
>was on hardware and lumber stores.  I am looking for:
> 1. Service
> 2. Value
> 3. Customer satisfaction

>The ones available to me are Lowes, Channel, Hechinger, 84, True-Value
>and Ace.  Any suggestions and experiences are welcome by both posting and
>email.

Don't neglect the small neighborhood hardware stores (if you live in
a real town, rather than endless suburbs).  They often have a quite 
good selection.  Sometimes you'll find one that's been run by the same
old geezer for 40 years and he's just full of invaluable advice.  (Also
you can feel good about supporting a neighborhood store and keeping the
money local, rather than giving it to a corporate giant.)

							--  Michal

Xref: sparky misc.consumers.house:11614 misc.consumers:15869