HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: blu@cellar.org (Dan Reed)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Boge TurboGas Rear Shock ALERT!
Date: 9 Nov 92 15:09:51 GMT
Organization: The Cellar BBS and public access system

Boge TurboGas rear-shock warning.
 
  Ok, so, I just got my new set of Boge TurboGas rear shocks, and even
though I had ordered KYBs, the sales dude said "Well, these are a bit
better", so I took-em.  I know these are OEM for most VWs, so I figured
they must be OK, and with 100k (yes 100) on my rear units of my 89 Golf,
at this point anything was better than what I had..
 
  After installing the left side, I started on the right.  After
reassembling the right side, I tested it outside the car (just sit it on
the ground, and push).  Something did not feel right.  I took it apart
again.. several times.. something was wrong, I would push down, but only
the spring was moving, not the strut...  I saw that the washer that goes
against the "cap" of the spring, was not seated and could slide all the
way down the shock stud.  Seems there is a small brass "C" clip, that
mounts in a tiny groove on the shock stud, and when the clip popped down,
it let this washer slide down with it, thus letting the spring "cap"
slide down.  If this were to happen, while in the car, the car would
"drop", and the top of the shock would "pop" up through my rear package
tray... not good.. so....  (see Fig 1.1)
 
                                    //
                                    // <- Top part, threaded..
                                    []
                                    []
                              /-----[]----- < - Spring "cap"
                              ; s  [__] <- Washer
                              ; p  ---- <- "C" clip (Weld here!)
                              ; r   []    ;
                              ; i   []    ;
                              ; n   []    ;
                              ; g   []    ;
                              ------[]------
                               [  Bottom  ]
                               [ of shock ]    (Fig 1.1)
 
 
  I had to WELD the small "C" clip, and washer in place.. that fixed it.
I took the car out for a test drive.. and POP!  Seems the left side (the
first side I did, and did not detect this problem) just did what I though
it might do... lucky for me, it did not wreck my package tray.. or cause
me to get into an accident.  So, limped home, and removed the left shock,
welded it.  Now, both are fine..
 
  Just thought I'd let you all know about this... I had HEARD of this
happening before, but never knew just what the problem was with the
Boge's, but this weld has seemed to fixed it.
 
Its not a car.. period!  Volkswagen.
 
 

--
Dan Reed AKA Blu Max - blu@cellar.org - AnalCADGeek! - Industrial Music Maker
    68' Cougar XR-7, 89' VW Golf, 74' Honda CL360t, Vextrex Unit Lover
-Legal in California only for racing use, never to be used on a highway.-
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Re: anyone have specs on
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Distribution: rec
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 16:57:46 GMT

In article <1992Nov5.4949.8902@dosgate>, tom.neumann@canrem.com (tom neumann) writes:
|> 
|> mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw) writes:
|> 
|> MS>I also suspect that the 7700 redline is optimistic and the 0-60 time of 7.7 sec
|> MS>is also ( the German version is rated 139hp at 6100 rpm) and it only gives
|> MS>0-100 km/hr in 8.1 secs which about equivalent to 7.8 secs for 0-60 for a 13%
|> MS>stronger engine.  Also why would the redline be at 7700 when you peak out in
|> MS>power at 6100?
|> 
|> MS>Does anyone have the real data?
|> 
|> Car and Driver Magazine got 0-60 in 7.7 seconds in an article.
|> 
|> My understanding of the European (non-cat) 1.8l 16V was that it was
|> rated at 139 _DIN_ hp (abut 134 _SAE_ hp) and redlined just short of
|> 8000 rpm, with hp peaking at around 7000 to 7200 rpm. It had somewhat
|> different cams and/or cam timing.
|> 
|> The North American (cat) version was rated at 129 _DIN_ hp or 123
|> _SAE_ hp. Because of the exhaust restriction of the cat the cams
|> and/or cam timing were set up to optimize mid range torque (compared
|> to euro-spec).

I'm curious about the source of the DIN and SAE hp ratings given.  My
source (Bosch Handbook) indicates that the SAE test methods tend to
yield hp ratings that are 10-25% higher than DIN ratings.   Could you
elaborate on the source or method you used?

Mark
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: dilmore@cray.com (Robert J. Dilmore)
Subject: Re: Castrol Syntec & Mobil 1 Question
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 6 Nov 92 07:21:58 CST

In article <92308.154343UD180274@NDSUVM1.BITNET> Roger A. Huggins <UD180274@NDSUVM1.BITNET> writes:
>I am trying to decide between Mobil-1 (5W30) and the new Castrol
>Syntec (5W50) for the winter in my '79 Rabbit (176k miles, original
>engine.)

  I have been using it in my 9A based Passat of 5000 miles and my engine
hasn't seized yet!

  I need the low viscosity so the car will start when it's
>-40 degrees, but I'm concerned with the high temp viscosity.  I
>have used Mobil-1 in the past with no complaints, but have had
>absolutely no experience with the new Castrol.
>
>Has anyone had any experience with the Castrol Syntec?  All
>comments and suggestions greatfully received!  Thank you!

  But seriously, I had noticed continually that that lifter noise on this
puppy is reduced much sooner after start-up. It seems that overhead cam 
engines love high vis oil. The caveat runs into an impass when it gets cold
out and you starve your journals, then the lifters don't get the oil quick 
enough. In my opinion 5w-50 gives the best of both. Cold weather pumpability
and high vis. for the lifters. A data point for doubters, I always use the
same type of MANN filter, and the previous oil of choice was Castrol GTX
15w-40 for Maryland climate year round. The energy conserving I rating helps
defray the cost of this oil (3.89 US/qaurt). I will use it again in mine, but
do not want to start with synthetic in my 80k+ mile Jetta.

Robert
From: zowie@daedalus.stanford.edu (Craig "Powderkeg" DeForest)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: '73 bus carburetor hack, and smog system query
Date: 5 Nov 92 07:43:08 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: Stanford Center for Space Science and Astrophysics

I just bought a '73 camper van.  I got a great deal on it!  But it's got a 
few bugs that need to be worked out.

The first was that it idled at about 2500(!) rpm.  This is a dual-carb engine,
with the 34-PDSIT 2 carburetors.  I noticed that the automatic choke housing
on the left carb was loose -- good clue.  I looked inside, and most of the
choke return spring was missing.  What little remained was just a little tangle
of wire.  As a result, the choke was staying closed most of the time, and the
fast idle cam for that half of the engine was set on full gas guzzler mode.  

Well, it's hard to find carburetor parts for a 20-year-old bus on short notice
(I called a few VW places around town, even a dealer, and most of 'em just 
laughed!) so I finally took the high E string off of my guitar, and bent it
around with some needlenose pliers.  Six revolutions, a twist on each end to
grab the appropriate pegs, and a quick heat-and-quench with a blowtorch, and
I had a new spring!

It doesn't work quite as smoothly as the stock one on the right carburetor, but
then whaddaya want from a guitar string, eh?  At least it works; I seem to have
gotten the spring constant about right.

I eventually did find the proper spring for it, inside a junk carb at the 
bottom of a large stack of 'em at a place in Davis, CA.  Now I just have to
get up the gumption to stick it in.  But, if it ain't broke, don't fix it, eh?

Now I'm trying to get the beast smogged in California.  Unfortunately, 
this is a year with EGR (ick.)  All of the EGR hosing is missing, along with
the EGR air filter.  That's OK -- I can cobble something up.  But the 
right-hand EGR valve is just plain busted.  Anyone know where I can find one
at a reasonable price?  (No-one I've called around here has one.  The
California DMV gave me the number of a place called `H.E.L.P.', which will
sell me a used one for $150 -- which is ridiculous for a 12-ounce assembly
with only five parts.
--
Craig DeForest -- astrophysicist for hire.   DoD#314159; PhD#271828
From: colemant@yvax.byu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: VW bus tires and light help request
Date: 11 Nov 92 09:47:20 -0700
Organization: Brigham Young University

Upon purchasing a '71 bus all is ready for the road except for a light, 
mirror, speedometer and the tires.

The light is the right rear side light that takes a very small bulb.
I was able to get one off of a junker but the screews that hold the thing
on have nothing to screw into.  Goop was used on the junked bus,
any suggestions?

The right outside mirror is missing from it's holder.  The junkers around
here are stripped quickly of their outside mirrors.  
Suggestions for replacing the mirror in the holder?

The speedometer is 10-15 mph below what it should be.  I think the needle
has been offset by mistake.

The tires are unevenly worn because of missalignment wich I have fixed.
Help me decide on which tires to buy for 35 mph mountain snow driving
and 65 mph wet freeway.  I got a $17 used/retread tire for the spare...

Thank you for the help in getting this thing legal.  --Tom
From: sylveste@ecs.umass.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Random Engine Cut Out
Date: 5 Nov 92 12:56:28 GMT

In article <1992Nov3.174535.17235@netcom.com>, markl@netcom.com (Mark Lentczner) writes:
> My 85 Cabriolet has had the following symptoms off and on
> over the past three years.  In the last six months they
> have gotten so bad that I often can't drive the car for
> more than five blocks:
> 
> 	* At any speed, idle to 70mph, the ignition randomly
> 	  cuts off for anywhere from momentarily to 10 seconds.
> 	  When this happens the Tachometer drops instantly to
> 	  zero.  All other electrical (lights, radio, fan, etc.)
> 	  work fine during this period and other sensors and
> 	  gauges look normal.
> 
> 	* If the above happens while the car is moving, usually
> 	  if I don't engague the clutch, the engine re-catches
> 	  and all is fine again.  (That is, after I regain my
> 	  composure from having this happen while in the fast
> 	  lane of a freeway...)
> 	  
> 	* On the other hand, if this happens when the car is
> 	  stopped, getting it started again is damn near
> 	  impossible.  The starter turns the engine over just
> 	  fine, only it just won't catch.  Usually it sounds
> 	  like its just about to catch just as I turn the key
> 	  off!  If I'm lucky it'll catch.
> 
> 	* This happens whether the car is cold or warm.  I've
> 	  had it happen after the car has been running for half
> 	  an hour.  On the other hand, it is very sporadic: I've
> 	  been known to drive four hours straight and not had
> 	  it happen at all.  While it is intermittent, it has
> 	  gotten to be almost all the time now> 
> -mark
>  markl@netcom.com
> 




It could be the fuel pump relay.  The next time it won't start
check to see if it has spark.  If it does then check to see if
the fuel pump runs when the engine is being cranked.  If the 
pump doesn't run then put a jumper wire in for the relay and 
see if it starts.  If it starts then either the relay was bad
or the wiring from the ignition system to the relay was bad or
your fuse box is bad.

If you are not getting spark the fuel pump won't run either 
because the relay won't turn on the pump unless the ignition
is operating.

If there is no spark the problem could be in the hall unit of 
the distributor or the coil or a bad ground somewhere.  All of 
these tend to cause itermittent problems.


                                          Mike Sylvester   Umass

                                           sylveste@ecs.umass.edu
From: bjgaed@bb1t.monsanto.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Importing
Date: 3 Nov 92 17:04:25 CST
Organization: Monsanto Company, St. Louis, MO

In article <1992Nov2.012306.11351@bsu-ucs>, 01ksdavis@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu (Rebel without a clue.) writes:

[Prvious stuff about smogging deleted]
> 	
> 	I thought that it doesn't matter what type of car it is, as long
> as it is a current model, it should only put out the emmissions that have
> been set for the cars for that model year.  In other words, I don't see
> why the computer has to have any data at all from anything else but the
> actual test.  Another thing-what is NOx?  
>  
Dunno just how it's done.

Sorry about the jargon.  NOx stands for "oxides of nitrogen", 
specifically NO and NO2.  They help give smog it's rich, brown color.  
They are formed by burning things in the presence of nitrogen (four 
fifths of the air your engine uses is nitrogen.  Most goes along for 
the ride, but some is oxidized.  The higher the temperature the more 
nitrogen oxides formed).

[Prvious stuff about crashing deleted]
 
> 	Correction, VW WOULDN'T do it because they think it is more
> trouble than it's worth.  I still say they sell cars in the American
> market today that do just as well as any Bug would do in the same
> accident (for Pete's sake, look at the GEO METRO!)

When I said "couldn't meet crsh standards" I should have added "at a 
price that is still economical".  Wether the car is actually *safer* 
with the extra steel, or safer than a Geo Metro without it is not the 
issue.  We're talking government regulations here.  Check your brain 
at the door please.

> 	People have mentioned that VW also doesn't sell the bug here 
> because they are afraid people would accuse them of overpricing.  Don't
> they already do that already???
>  ______________________________________________________________________________
> |Kyle S. Davis	

I have never understood why you water-cooled people even buy those 
cars at those prices, but I guess your mileage may vary.

I tend to agree with another post that said essentially there were 
enough old air-cooleds out there for the people that *deserve* them.  
It would not make the mass market today.  

The air-cooled VW's are still a bargain.  Compare the price of a 
fully-restored beetle, bus, or Ghia to a new compact, minivan, or 
sport model *of the same quality* and you come out ahead even if you 
pay someone else to do the restoration.  And *for free* you get lots 
of entertaining weekends challenging your mind to solve engine 
diagnostic problems *and* upper body fitness workouts trying to loosen 
your rear wheel nuts.

From the advanced age of 45 I can tell you that there are two ways for 
middle-aged males to have a mid-life crisis:  cars and women.  Since 
my wife is a domestic relations attorney, there is only one of those 
that I can afford.  Now, would anyone like a ride in my '64 Ghia?  8{)
 
--Electric Monk            (Bruce Gaede); 
                            e-mail: bjgaed@ccmail.monsanto.com

"...and then time started seriously to pass."
--Douglas Adams, _Dirk Gently's Holistic Detective Agency_
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: szapudi@stsci.edu
Subject: How to buy a 85-87 VW Golf (or something else...)
Organization: Space Telescope Science Institute
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 16:08:52 GMT


 Hi VW experts out there,

I'd like to buy an 85-87 (88) VW Golf
(if possible 4dr, 5spd, AC, SR) and I have a 
few questions:

   -what is the acceptable milage (there are a
lot of cars out there with around 100,000 or more)
I want to use it for at least two years (until I 
get my PhD and maybe get payed) reasonbly trouble-free,
i.e. I can't spend a lot of money
   -is diesel an acceptable option: a few friends of mine
said I "corner myself in a box" if a buy a diesel, because
in the states diesels are so rare that only few mechanincs
work on them, parts are expensive and harder to get, therefore
it is much more expensive to maintain while the resale value
is about thee half of  a gas modell
   -is the automatic a good option i.e. is it reliable and
how much does it screw the gas/milage
   -what are my other options (I just want a reliable but
still cool transportation which sits 5 people and I can 
pack my stuff in it: a HB), maybe a Rabbit, or GTI? I can't
spend a lot more then three grants
   -How much does it REALLY cost to maintain a VW? (Sofar
any car I looked at the owner said he had to spend at 
least $800 for the Maryland inspection which basically covers
the brakes shocks, windows, lights, all the safety things
but not engine or transmission.

I'd appriciate some help in this matter in the hope
that maybe some day I can become one of you, happy VW owners...

Thanks, Istvan

              Istvan Szapudi,
              szapudi@stsci.edu
              szapudi@casa.pha.jhu.edu


Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: christos@wucs1.wustl.edu (Christos Papadopoulos)
Subject: Re: brake interchange
Organization: Washington University, St. Louis MO
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 17:05:07 GMT

	I have a question for people who suggest replacing rear drum brakes with
disk brakes from later VWs: Does anything need to be done about adjusting the
propotioning valve? This is the valve that controls the amount of breaking to
the rear wheels. There is a sensor somewhere in the back that "tells" the valve
how much load is on the wheels thus adjusting breaking. My assumption (which
may be false) is that disks will provide more breaking for the same pressure
than drums, thus possibly leading into lockup.
	Any more ideas?

Christos.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang)
Subject: Re: big alternators - tiny belt
Organization: Brandeis University
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 19:43:50 GMT

In article <wXT5TB1w164w@cellar.org> blu@cellar.org (Dan Reed) writes:
>andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang) writes:
>
>> In article <921109.110252.amiller@almaden.ibm.com> amiller@almaden.ibm.com (A
>> >blu@cellar.org (Dan Reed) writes:
>> >
>> >Right now I limit myself to 100w/150w H4s in my main headlights and

>> >Alex
>> >amiller@almaden.ibm.com

Alex uses his car for rallying where the only things he lights up are
the trees and the road, what of it there is.

>> Does anybody else feel that for on the road use that 100w is a bit
>> obnoxious?  Yes, its true that if you get good lenses and are careful

>In a word, No.  For example, I dont know where you live, but I live in South 
>NJ, out in farming country.  After 5 pm or so, most of the time, *I* am the 
>only car on some of these back roads.  Deer, Fog, Debris are all bad things 
>to hit while trucking along at 60Mph.  The *further* I can see, the better.  
>I have my lights all wired up "properly".  High beams turn on the driving 
>lights, low beams turn on fog lights.  All of the lights are aimed so as to 
>give me the best possible lighting pattern without pissing other drivers off 
>(Ie- low beams).  If my high beams are on, then that must mean, that there re 
>no other drivers to piss off, therefore, I can have as many damn lights as I 
>wish... Who am I going to piss off?  A tree?  A Deer?  I'd be a weenie if I 
>drove on the highway with my high beams.. but I don't..

>Dan Reed AKA Blu Max - blu@cellar.org - AnalCADGeek! - Industrial Music Maker

I agree that anything you can turn off I couldn't care less about.
However, is 100w on the low beam that you can't turn off really
necessary?  Even with proper aiming when you go over a rise, 100W on
low beam (plus fogs) can be quite annoying.

As for proper switching, if you really run into fog you want to be
able to turn OFF the low beam headlights so that the fogs do their job
without interference.  And you don't want a lot of wattage in them either.

-andy
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Smogging a Bug
From: <CMS@psuvm.psu.edu>
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 15:27:40 EST
Organization: Penn State University

Title says it all.   Anybody have any information of
smogging a Bug?    Say a 1966.
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 14:29:39 EST
From: Karl Nordstrom <KXN2@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: What uses the 2.0L 16V engine?

What VWs use the 2.0 liter 16 valve engine?
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: lagrangj@unvax.union.edu (Joshua C. LaGrange)
Subject: Will I have problems with my 6-volt in the cold?
Organization: Union College, Schenectady, NY
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 05:22:12 GMT

Does any one know what kind of problems I can expect with a six-volt system during this coming winter.  I assume that I'll have some difficulty starting, does anyone have any suggestions on how to deal with that?  The car must be parked outside, unfortunately, so it will be nearly constantly freezing, sometimes sub-zero.  Would a reflective space-blanket in the engine compartment while parked help?  Thanks in advance.  Just e-mail, unless you think it would be of use to the whole group.  -Josh

-- 
Josh LaGrange                  *                    
Email: lagrangj@unvax.union.edu*                                               Phone: (518) 370-6908          *
My views may not represent the *
views of the Union College     *
From: stephens@cat53.cs.wisc.edu (Philip Stephenson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: 77 Bus won't idle
Date: 12 Nov 92 17:29:26 GMT
Article-I.D.: daffy.1992Nov12.172926.5170
Distribution: na
Organization: University of Wisconsin, Madison -- Computer Sciences Dept.


 Hello all,
 I am the new owner of a 77 poptop.  It drives fine, but refuses to idle,
 either warm or cold.  I have done a minor tuneup (plugs, points, condensor),
 the cap & rotor look good, and as far as I can tell, the coil and plug wires
 seem ok.  When I try to adjust the idle speed by turning the air bypass 
 screw, there is no change in the idle speed.  Please respond by email or
 post if this would be of interest to others.  I am sorry if this is a FAQ,
 I am reasonably new to this newsgroup.
 Thanks in advance.
 Phil
From: pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Smogging a Bug
Date: 12 Nov 92 14:38:44 GMT
Organization: University of Louisville


 In article <92316.152740CMS@psuvm.psu.edu>, <CMS@psuvm.psu.edu> writes...
> {Title says it all.   Anybody have any information of
> {smogging a Bug?    Say a 1966.
> 

Around here, cars up to '66 just need to have the crankcase breather attached
to the air cleaner.  Just let you fingers do the walking to the government
department and ask them.  That's why you pay taxes. ;-)

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
|pH Fred == pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu    |         "What we lack         |
|        == ..!psuvax1!ulkyvx.bitnet!pgheit01 |   in enthusiasm, we make up   |
|           University of Louisville          |         for in apathy."       |
|                Louisville, KY               |                               |
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=