HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: peter@helix.ObjecTime.on.ca (Peter Epstein)
Subject: Re: How to remove a chain??????
Organization: ObjecTime Limited
Distribution: bnr
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 92 15:32:50 GMT

Most of today's bike chains have no master links.  All links are the same, and any
link can be "broken" with a "chain breaker" to get the chain off the bike.  A chain
breaker (aka chain tool) is just a little gadget that lets you turn a handle to
push out a pin on the chain.  Push the pin out enough to separate the chain without
popping the pin all the way out.  When separated, there should still be a tiny bit
of pin showing on the inside of the outer side plate.  This means that it should
require a bit of twisting to separate the chain, but it also makes putting the chain
back together much easier.

Once you have the chain off the bike, you should use solvent (varsol for example)
rather than oil to clean that chain.  Soak for a while, then lubricate.  If you live
in a fairly dry location, waxing is a cleaner alternative.

To reinstall the chain, wrap the chain around all the gears and through the rear
derailleur correctly (it's amazing how many times I get the chain going the wrong
way through the rear derailleur), and then snap the chain back together.  Keeping
the chain off the inside of the granny ring will make it easier to do, since there
will be no tension on the chain.  Also use the smallest cog in the rear.  If the pin
was pushed out too far, it will be more difficult to keep the pin and hole lined up
as you turn the chain tool around and push the pin back in place from the other side.

With the pin almost all the way back in place (maybe half a turn to go), put the
chain on the inner part of the chain tool and do the last half turn.  This will
loosen up the link.  Some people just stress the link to loosen it up.  It's important
to loosen up the link somehow.

You may find it easier to lube the chain once its back on the bike.  Chain breakers
are not expensive, and they are available everywhere.  I personally like a good
one with a long handle for leverage, such as the Park Tools chain tool.

Hope this helps.

-- 
   ,__o                                                  ,__o
 _-\_<,     Peter Epstein   peter@objectime.on.ca      _-\_<,
(*)/'(*)                                              (*)/'(*)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech

Theodore Chen writes:

> yes, the indexing is in the shifters.  the problem is that the
> nonindexing derailleur may not move the same distance as the
> indexing derailleur for a given amount of cable pulled by the
> shifter.  different geometry and all.  you could try changing only
> the shifters, but you'll probably find that it indexes poorly.

Not so fast with the assumptions there Ted.  Many of the pre-index
derailleurs have the same ratio as indexed ones.  Campagnolo record
derailleurs have been used with good success by guys at Palo Alto
Bicycles.  Since these components often come as a set, buying the
levers separately is not all that common.  I for one had a hard time
finding a close spaced lever for my early Dura Ace shifter after
starting out with one that had only wide spacing.

Just as a historic point... the first indexed shifters had the
detents in the derailleur as one might expect before ever using one.
This design soon showed its faults and ever since the clicks have
been in the levers with the adjusting thimble at the derailleur.
The important thing is to have the over-travel in the lever as well
as the in/out selector for indexing or not at this point.

jobst_brandt@hplabs.hp.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: mvolo@ecsvax.uncecs.edu (Michael R. Volow)
Subject: Re: How to cold-set rear triangle to wider dropout width?
Organization: UNC Educational Computing Service
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1992 03:08:09 GMT

bab@icd.ab.com (Brian A. Batke) writes:

>In article <1g80rvINNb8o@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>, co187@cleveland.Freenet.Edu 
>(John Thompson) writes:
>> 
>> Re: coldsetting rear triangle
>> 
>> The best way I've found to do this is to clamp the bottom bracket\
>> shell in a vice (_sans_ cups, of course) and simply pull the stays out to where 
>> they need to be.  The trick is doing it symmetrically; this is best developed
>> with practice, but few of us have enough frames to practice on :-).
>> Do the best you can, then check spacing and centering.  Once you get the 
>> spacing right, you can sometimes move both stays to center by putting
>> an axle or hub in the driopouts and pulling like h***.  Good luck!
>> 

>Note that by just widening the stays, your dropouts will no longer be
>parallel. I don't know how much of a concern this really is. When I asked
>about this, several people said "don't worry", but several others said the
>non-parallel dropouts will be more prone to breaking. 

>-----------
>Brian Batke
>bab@icd.ab.com
>Allen-Bradley Co., Highland Hts, Ohio
In cold-setting the rear triangle wider, you then have to re-set
the dropouts to parallel.
-- 
Michael Volow, Psychiatry, Durham VA Med Center, Durham NC 27712
919 286 0411 Ext 6933               mvolo@uncecs.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech,rec.bicycles.racing,rec.skating
From: les@SAIL.Stanford.edu (Les Earnest)
Subject: Re: ASTM bicycle helmet standard coming
Reply-To: les@cs.stanford.edu
Organization: Computer Science Department, Stanford University
	<13DEC92.04080245@amazon.pfc.mit.edu>
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1992 10:46:14 GMT

Paul Stek writes
   Regarding some standard on how well helmets stay on one's head, I suspect
   the biggest problem is finding a way to get people to adjust their
   helmets properly.  Some helmets are just plain more difficult to
   adjust.  It would be difficult to do, but their should be
   some standard for ease of adjustment/fit.  This would be harder
   to test, but would adress what i see as the larger problem.

Yes, it is very important that helmets be adjusted properly and some
of them are hard to do right.  However, even when they are relatively
easy to adjust and come with detailed adjustment instructions many
riders seem to adjust the straps just enough to get it on.

Helmet designers should obviously make their helmets easy to adjust,
but I don't know of a way to specify that cleanly in a standard.  I
know from talking to some of them that they are very concerned about
users who don't bother to adjust for a firm fit, but there does not
seem to be a systematic way to deal with that problem, other than in
the usual Darwinian way.

--
Les Earnest           Phone:  415 941-3984    Fax: 415 941-3934
Internet: Les@cs.Stanford.edu              USMail: 12769 Dianne Drive
UUCP: . . . decwrl!cs.Stanford.edu!Les         Los Altos Hills, CA 94022
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: x90watz@gw.wmich.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: How to remove a chain??????
Date: 13 Dec 92 12:13:03 EST
Organization: Western Michigan University

Hey there netters,

I've got a quick question regarding chains -- I assume there is a master link
in bike chains so that they can be removed without doing an disassembly of the
bike, right? How do I locate the master link.....I assume it looks different
from the rest of the links.....and then how is it to be removed?

Or is there some other way of removing the chain (maybe disassembly isn't so
bad?)?  Any help is appreciated -- winter riding here in Michigan tends to get
all kinds of #%@* all over the chain, and I want to clean it thouroughly.

Also -- has anyone ever tried immersing the chain in a small pan of oil for a
period of time, then letting it drip "clean," then wiping it off -- or is there
other advice on a "correct" way to do it?

Thanks in advance!

-Mike-
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: peter@helix.ObjecTime.on.ca (Peter Epstein)
Subject: Re: Rear Brake problem on ATX-760
Organization: ObjecTime Limited
Distribution: bnr
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 92 20:12:15 GMT

In article <1992Dec11.180124.17598@u.washington.edu>, miolnir@stein.u.washington.edu (Scot Thorstad) writes:|> In article <1992Dec11.103706.6917@gw.wmich.edu> x90watz@gw.wmich.edu writes:
|> >
|> >	I've got a quick, relatively simple question (hopefully!).  I recently
|> >purchased a Giant ATX-760 and have notice that the rear brakes don't seem to be
|> >very "solid."  My front brakes are wonderful, but I am of the opinion that the
|> >rear brakes should do most of the stopping.......especially on a downhill I;)
|> >
|> >-Mike-

I second the point about rear brakes.  When the going gets tough, the front brakes
are your lifeline.  Too much rear brake and you'll fishtail.  Too much front brake
is hard to have.

As for making the "action" better on your rear brakes, I suggest the following:

Shorten cable housing to minimum.  Most bikes come with too much cable housing.
There should be enough to allow full travel of handlebars, but no more than
necessary.  Cable should have no tight turns either.  If possible, run left brake
lever cable to the right side of the frame, so that cable doesn't have to
bend as much when handlebar is turned.

Lube all cable thoroughly.  I use grease.  Teflon based chain lubes work well too,
but don't last as long.

Adjust brake shoes with very little or no toe-in.  Brake should should hit rim
all at once with a nice sounding thunk.

Cover exposed cable on top tube with a piece of housing liner.  This can be
extracted from inside of cable housing.  Cut it short enough so that it doesn't
have to slide on the cable during brake use.  This just keeps exposed cable from
rusting (put grease inside liner too).

Use fat brake cable.  Nashbar sells a good set.  Tioga is good too.  Fatter cables
don't stretch as much, and more importantly, the housing also compressed less.
Ideally, the cable should have twice the cross section area as the cross-over cable
(since there are two of them).

Shorted cross-over cable so that it is perpendicular to line from brake boss to
cable attaching point.  Most cross-overs are too long, reducing braking leverage.

I find that properly set up brakes and cables give a fantastically immediate feel
for the front brakes.  Although the back brakes are never as good, they can both be
excellent.  I hate mushy brakes too :)

   ,__o                                                  ,__o
 _-\_<,     Peter Epstein   peter@objectime.on.ca      _-\_<,
(*)/'(*)                                              (*)/'(*)
From: smithm@ava.bcc.orst.edu (Mitchell Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Suspensions/I need some help
Date: 18 Dec 92 18:47:28 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Biological Computing Consortium, OSU
NNTP-Posting-Host: ava.bcc.orst.edu


 I am considering purchasing a suspension fork for my 1989 team stumpjumper.
 I have narrowed the choices down to three forks: the rock shox mag 20,
 the rock shox quadra, or the manitou2.  I would like to hear from people
 who have used these forks to give some pros and cons, and hear what is
 all around more useful, air/oil or elastomer.  Finally, I would be
 curious to know what is the upkeep like with any of these forks.  Thanks
 in advance.
 mitch
B

 I have narrowed the choices down to the
From: johnr@col.hp.com (John T. Rasper)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Flats from Fine Wires
Date: 17 Dec 1992 16:27:05 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division
NNTP-Posting-Host: hplsdvf.col.hp.com

jbrandt@hplred.HPL.HP.COM (Jobst Brandt) writes:
> I often hear of riders who are getting flats from tiny wires and I
> have had the same problem.  If you look carefully, you will notice
> that these wires are stainless and that they come from steel belted
> car tires.  ...

I have had several flats caused by these.  In one instance I had one
~6 miles after running over what was either a broken belt (as in fan
or alternator), or a bit of tire casing, along the shoulder of the
interstate. Examining some of this flotsam later, I found numerous
bits of wire belting protruding from the exposed edges.  Is wire
routinely used in machine belts to give strength & reduce stretch?

These flats are incidious.  They seem to cause a slow leak which
you discover when returning to your mount for the long ride home.
Needless to say, I now take great pains to avoid these bits and
have improved my hopping ability greatly.

NOTE: Watch out when you run your fingers along the casing to find
the cause of your flat.  These little wires are nigh on impossible
to see, and can slice skin like a razor.

--
John Rasper                         Hewlett-Packard COL
johnr@col.hp.com                    P.O. Box 2197
(719) 590-5895                      Colorado Springs, CO 80901-2197
From: heard@qut.edu.au
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Front Brake Usage
Date: 14 Dec 92 12:17:47 EST
Organization: Queensland University of Technology

In article <1460041@hplred.HPL.HP.COM>, jbrandt@hplred.HPL.HP.COM 
  (Jobst Brandt) writes:
> Ronno writes:
> 
>> In my day the bolt at the top of the stem (the one you tighten so
>> that the handlebars don't turn independently of the front wheel)
>> was called the "ball tearer", with obvious implications for what
>> happens if you go over the handlebars.
> 
> It's nice to see that old fables never die.  The idea that the bar
> stem will damage ones sex organs is a theoretical one that seems to
> impress every bicyclist who gave it a thought.  On the other hand,
> no modification of this apparently dangerous part of the bicycle has
> been seriously undertaken in a century of development.  In fact the
> likelihood of an injury of this type is diminishingly small.  There
> are many accounts of riders going over the front none of whom in
> my experience have struck the bar stem.  I am sure someone can find
> and exception but it is rare.
> 
>> However, the phrase sticks in my mind, and does make me cautious
>> about using the front brake.
> 
> I must assume there are all sorts of bicyclists, some of whom never
> need to decelerate rapidly.  The front brake on bicycles,
> motorcycles, and cars is the one that is most effective in slowing
> the vehicle.  The bicycle in particular because it's center of
> gravity is high with respect to the wheelbase.  This causes a
> greater weight transfer to the front wheel when slowing down.  I
> think you should always use caution when braking or cornering, but
> this should not be motivated by the shape of the handlebar stem.
> 
> jobst_brandt@hplabs.hp.com

Thanks for your well thought-out comments. I do indeed
use my front brake, with due caution. The main point of
my post was to revive a venerable old cyclists' word,
and perhaps to explain why the fear of wrong use of the
front brake is so strong. 

Incidently, the phrase "ball tearer" seems to have
entered the language as something which causes you
undue concern or difficult problems. In computing you
hear people saying things like "The ball tearer is that
more than one process can release items from the 
queue". Does anyone have any good evidence that this
phrase comes from cycling?

Take care
Ronno
From: jrdodd@waikato.ac.nz
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: MTBs as racers
Date: 21 Dec 92 16:38:55 +1300
Organization: University of Waikato, Hamilton, New Zealand

In article <20DEC199213163969@pavo.concordia.ca>, a_babel@pavo.concordia.ca (AARON BABEL) writes:
> 
> 	I own a Cannondale SM400 MTB, and I have found that it is just as
> light as my associate's Trek 1400, if not lighter.  Aware of the fact that I
> could replace my tires with slicks (Fatboys), but does anyone have practical
> experience in adapting MTBs for racing?  So, essentially I am asking as to 
> what would be the best brakes and gearing system which are made for C'dales,
> that will give my bike and me effective racing capabilities.  Also, does any-
> one know of the success rate of others who may have tried adapting their MTB
> for the road (i.e. in time trials)?
> 
> Just want most out of my bicycle, before I alctualy buy a racer.
> 
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> 
> "What a piece of work is a man. How noble in reason, how infinite in faculties,
> in form and moving, how express and admirable, in action, how like an angel, 
> in apprehension, how like a god."  (Hamlet:Shakespeare)
> ______________________________________________________________________________

I ride weekly with a bunch of A-catagory racers on a Sunday 120-150km ride,
usually taking in some good hills and prolonged pulls.  One day a guy came out
on a Bauer MTB with slicks and aerobars.  He had no trouble keeping up and his
aero bars were well-used when riding at the front.  Still,  sprinting could
be difficult with either bar set-up.  It could be a good idea to but some
drops on (a la Tomac) and to try that out.

Jonathan,
New Zealand (go south then turn right)

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tan@lynx.msc.cornell.edu.UUCP (David Tan,Box 219 Baker Lab,54810,2720402)
Subject: Re: CRANK PULLING PROBLEM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Originator: tan@msc2.msc.cornell.edu
Organization: Cornell-Materials-Science-Center
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 19:43:10 GMT

From article <1992Dec15.060331.15293@news2.cis.umn.edu>, by frank@molbio.cbs.umn.edu (Frank Williams):
> David Tan,Box 219 Baker Lab,54810,2720402 (tan@lynx.msc.cornell.edu.UUCP) wrote:
> : 
> : Try putting the fixed cup in a vise and using the frame as your "wrench".
> : The amount of leverage you can get is amazing.  Then you don't have to take
> : the crank off the spindle.
> 
> How can he get the fixed cup in a vise with the crank still on the spindle?

Oops!  I was hit by temporary dyslexia topologica.  Sorry!

Use a crank puller, then.

Dave
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech,rec.bicycles.racing,rec.skating
Subject: TurboCat Mod. to Specialized Light?
Distribution: world
Organization: Baker Jardine
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 10:18:14 +0000

Hi all.... I had a Specialized PreView 2.5 front light; nice light, but I
couldn't live with the short battery life. I think they made a mistake
trying to run it on AA-size batteries; a triumph of design over
functionality. Anyhow, when I complained to Specialized, they told me that 
there is an external battery pack available, called the 'TurboCat Mod Kit'.

Does anyone have any information about this, like who makes it, how much it
costs, and whether it is any good :-)   No-one here in the UK has heard of
any such thing....

julian
From: king@reasoning.com (Dick King)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: 1 Re: Vistalight LED
Date: 19 Dec 92 19:40:22 GMT
Organization: Reasoning Systems, Inc., Palo Alto, CA

In article <724569581.AA05228@urchin.fidonet.org> Howard.Gerber@f88.n106.z1.fidonet.org (Howard Gerber) writes:
>Dick King <king@reasoning.com> writes:
>
> DK> People don't keep logs accurate enough to recharge their 30 hour
>batteries
> DK> at, say, 25 hours [although they could, and this is long enough so
>that a
> DK> once-a-week recharge ought to be plenty].
> DK> The question is, how much time do you have after symptoms start to
>show
> DK> before you go dark?
> DK> With NiCads, the answer is "minutes".  Not good.
>
> There's a very simple, low-tech, solution: carry a spare set of
>batteries
> with you. Since the Vistalight only uses two AA batteries, it's rather
> easy to carry an extra couple with you at night.

Yes, but we're talking about the rear light.

The first sign your rear light is out might be a very loud THUMP from the car
that hit you.

That's why i would want a battery that if it looks OK at the start of the ride
it will look perhaps dim but still visible at the end.

>
> On the practical side, I know that I never ride more than 20 hours a
>week
> at night, so I just recharge my batteries once a week and I've never
>had
> my Vistalight go out on me.
>


This makes sense.

-dk
From: jrdodd@waikato.ac.nz
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: How to cold-set rear triangle to wider dropout width?
Date: 17 Dec 92 12:35:47 +1300
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Waikato, Hamilton, New Zealand

Here's an untried idea for speading the rear triangle,  how about placing an
old axle in the dropouts with bolts on the inside of the stays,  i.e. being
pressed together.  Then using a spanner to gradually move one of the bolts
towards an end,  thus spreading the stays evenly?

There's probably a hundred reasons why this wouldn't work, but maybe it does -
it seems better than just pulling them apart with sheer grunt.

Jonathan.

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tan@lynx.msc.cornell.edu.UUCP (David Tan,Box 219 Baker Lab,54810,2720402)
Subject: Re: CRANK PULLING PROBLEM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Originator: tan@msc2.msc.cornell.edu
Organization: Cornell-Materials-Science-Center
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 19:50:02 GMT

From article <1992Dec14.050719.86107@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu>, by dhm1@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (DANIEL HILL MCCAULEY):
> 
>     I have a BIG problem.  I am trying to take the cranks off an old frame
>      [...]
>     should I go about taking this crank off without damaging the bottom
>     bracket shell.  I don't give a damn about the cranks, I'll break them if I
>     have to.  I already tried getting the fixed cup off, but failed.  I also
>     don't care about the bottom bracket.  All suggestions welcomed.

Try putting the fixed cup in a vise and using the frame as your "wrench".
The amount of leverage you can get is amazing.  Then you don't have to take
the crank off the spindle.

If you don't like that idea, get an automotive gear puller from your local
cheap department store or auto supply store.

Good luck!

Dave
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: frank@molbio.cbs.umn.edu (Frank Williams)
Subject: Re: How to cold-set rear triangle to wider dropout width?
Organization: University of Minnesota
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Distribution: usa
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1992 05:57:27 GMT

david.d.therrien (therrien@cbnews.cb.att.com) wrote:
: 
: I've never tried this before, but I am considering upgrading my road bike
: to 6 or 7 speeds.  The idea of bolting in an axle and then cold setting is
: interesting.  I am thinking about bolting on an appropiately spaced axle
: and then clamping the BB in a vice as suggested.  I would then move both
: stays to one side (cold set them off center) and then cold set them
: back to being centered.  This should result in a new spacing somewhat
: equal to the axle that is bolted in since I am forcing the material
: into the plastic flow region.  The advantage is that I get the spacing
: right the first time.  
: 
: Comments?

Don't bend them any more than necessary.  The method you describe probably
wouldn't work unless you have very soft tubing in the frame.  To achieve
correct centering, I tie a thread to one dropout, wrap it around the head
tube, and stretch it as it is tied to the other dropout.  It is then easy
to measure the distance between the thread and the seat tube on each side.
I wouldn't twist the BB shell, although it is fine to hold the frame
there.  I put one foot at the chainstay bridge, one hand at the brake
bridge, and twist the dropout and stays from those two points.

Remember that spreading the rear triangle is not required to use a wider
axle, it is just a convienence.  If you are concerned about the alignment
of the dropouts, put a big adjustable wrench on them and twist them a 
bit.  No big deal, they're soft compared to the tubes.

Frank Williams
frank@molbio.cbs.umn.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: mack@oakhill.sps.mot.com (Gregg Mack ( Sun ))
Subject: Is bikecurrent OK?
Organization: Motorola Inc., Austin, Texas
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 14:03:27 GMT


I'm wondering if the bikecurrent e-mail distribution is OK.  
I haven't received anything since Saturday, and when I try
to send e-mail to bikecurrent@zule.Eng.Sun.COM it bounces. :-(

Anybody know anything?

-- 
Gregg Mack                  ---------- __o       __o       __o       __o
gmack@paceline.sps.mot.com  -------- _`\<,_    _`\<,_    _`\<,_    _`\<,_
Motorola RISC uProcessors   ------- (*)/ (*)  (*)/ (*)  (*)/ (*)  (*)/ (*)
Austin, Texas  USA          ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
From: budn@hpmwtd.sr.hp.com (Bud Noren)
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 17:41:30 GMT
Subject: Re: Re: Chain Maintenance Question
Organization: HP Santa Rosa Site (SRSD MWTD)