HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: sinclair@cc.usu.edu (Bob Sinclair)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: prev post: Industrial Adhesive
Date: 28 Sep 92 07:19:27 MDT
Organization: Utah State University

AAAAAAAGHHHHHHHHH
It did it again!
This post is just to provide a header for the last
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: konnbt@eua.ericsson.se (Niklas Bjornerstedt)
Subject: Climbing & climbing shops in Vancouver
Reply-To: konnbt@eua.ericsson.se
Organization: Ellemtel Telecom Systems Labs, Stockholm, Sweden
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 08:05:09 GMT

I am going to the OOPSLA conference in Vancouver on October 18-22. I wonder if
anyone has info about where to buy climbing equipment and if there are any
crags that are climbable then? (From what I've heard the weather in Vancouver in
October is much the same as in Stockholm, rainy and cold...). Are there any indoor
walls?

Niklas Bjornerstedt
From: parilis@gandalf.rutgers.edu (Gary Parilis)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: climbing prints/posters
Keywords: Black Diamond address
Date: 28 Sep 92 16:57:41 GMT
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.


Does anyone know where to get sme nice climbing prints or posters?

I just moved into a new office and I need to decorate my walls.

The 1988 Chouinard catalog has a great photo on the cover, and 
inside is an offer for a poster of it.  Anyone know if this is still
available thru Black Diamond?  Also, what's the phone # for Black
Diamond?

I called the number on the 1991 (I think) catalog, and got a recording
that the number is no longer in service.  :-(

Please respond via email... I just don't have time to read news these
days... :-(

Thanks,
- Gary
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: AS.MSW@forsythe.stanford.edu (Marc Whitney)
Subject: Re: caving was water-heat-light and ropes - ??
Organization: Stanford University, California, USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 16:50:43 GMT

In article <1992Sep29.205334.17670@nas.nasa.gov>,
eugene@wilbur.nas.nasa.gov (Eugene N. Miya) writes:
>It's the character of cavers to be very quiet about their caves to prevent
>damage inside them while quite a few read this group.  They are
>far more protective than climbers about their environment.
>
Having been escorted / dragged / baby'd through one cave I can see
why.  They are much, much more fragile than most cliffs.  A dozen
years will erase most of what climbers do (through natural rock fall
and erosion) while even minor impact in a cave persists for
centuries.  Also, the ethics needed to prevent / minimize impact are
not obvious even to the concerned but uneducated novice.  For
instance, it would not have occurred to me to wear cotton gloves
(sweat, body oils, etc. can damage and discolor) or take a pee
bottle.
From: scott.powell@amail.amdahl.com
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Artificial Walls
Date: 30 Sep 92 01:49:55 GMT
Return-Path: <amail.amdahl.com!scott.powell@juts.ccc.amdahl.com>

I've got a large wall in the back of my garage and want to install a climbing
wall.  The dimensions are about 18 to 20 feet high by about 25 feet
wide.  I am planning on installing an artificial climbing wall there and was
wondering if anyone has done anything similar?

I have seen 3 different methods.  The first is a resin and crushed rock method
like the wall at North Carolina State.  The second is the wall at the REI here
in Cupertino which appears to be made of panels with hexagonal holds placed
into them.  Finally there's 4x8 sheets of plywood with artificial holds bolted
on them.

Of the 3 methods the 3rd seems to be the cheapest.  I have found a place that
claims they can spray a resin and rock mixture.  I haven't any information on
the type of wall at REI, but am guessing that it would be the most expensive
type.

Since my budget will be limited, I'll probably go the 4x8 plywood route.
Still I would like to hear from anyone who has put up a climbing wall of any
type, their experiences and the advantages/disadvantages of the three methods
listed above.  I'd also like to hear about any other type of methods.

Thanks,

Scott

| Scott B. Powell, email sbp00@amail.amdahl.com  Expressing my own opinions |
|                     -- I see the path...Follow me!! --                    |
|           Amdahl corp. P.O. Box 3470, Sunnyvale, CA. 94088-3470   |
From: Gen.M.Kanai@dartmouth.edu (Gen M. Kanai)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: HELP: double boots
Date: 27 Sep 92 02:09:33 GMT
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH
X-Posted-From: InterNews1.0a5@newshost.dartmouth.edu

Please help me make my decision on what plastic boots I should get.

I've heard that the Lowa Denali's liner takes years to dry out.
I've heard that Asolo's leak water.
I've heard that Scarpas are not great.
I can get Koflachs at wholesale, but they dont really grab me.

Please e-mail or post any experiences you've had with any of these or
any other plastic mountaineering boots.  My needs are pretty universal.
 Ice-climbing, glacier traverse (general hiking), keeping my feet warm,
etc.  They need to be all-around good boots.

thanks in advance,

e-mail to gen.kanai@dartmouth.edu
From: jeffw@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com (jeff waldeck)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 19:15:04 GMT
Subject: Re: rapelling safety (was: Re: Climber Killed in Yosemite)
Organization: Hewlett Packard - Boise, ID
Newsgroups: rec.climbing

/ hpdmd48:rec.climbing / paale@stud.cs.uit.no (Paal Ellingsen) /  9:19 am  Sep 28, 1992 /

I mean, won't the prusik get stuck in the rappel device if you tie it in below
the brake? But then, I use a figure-of-8 brake. What do you use?


                                        Paal/paale@stud.cs.uit.no

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

I think the trick is to adjust the length of the Prusik so that it will
"bite" before jamming your belay device. At least, that is what I do.
When descending, you grab the Prusik and break it free. To stop, let the
Prusik bite again. Pretty foolproof, really, as long as it is correctly
set up!

Regards,

Jeffery Waldeck
jeffw@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com


Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: murray@src.dec.com (Hal Murray)
Subject: Thoughts for your next bivy
Organization: DEC Systems Research Center
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 92 19:15:04 GMT

The clouds had cleared and the night was magnificant still and
starlit.  I clipped myself on to the ledge and dozed off.  I awoke to
find Joe already awake, cursing and shivering in the cold.  A
point of light in the horizon cheered us up and we watched
eagerly for the appearance of the sun.  The light grew stronger
and we were laughing and talking like normal human beings
when suddenly the moon popped up... We spent the rest of the
night in utter misery.

			Don Whillans

I found this in Randy Morse's "The Mountains of Canada".
Anybody know what bookor journal it came from?
From: bsbarron@eos.ncsu.edu (BRADFORD SCOTT BARRON)
Subject: Re: how easy is resoling shoes?
Originator: bsbarron@c00506-119rd.eos.ncsu.edu
Reply-To: bsbarron@eos.ncsu.edu (BRADFORD SCOTT BARRON)
Organization: North Carolina State University, Project Eos
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 19:58:53 GMT


 (Jim Klavetter) writes:

|> I need to resole my scarpas.  How easy is it to do if I go to REI and
|> get the kit?  If I can follow directions, will Ibe able to do as good
|> a job as a "professional?"  Do I need any special tools?  Any hints if
|> you think I can do it?
|> 


About a year ago, Rock and Ice had a great article on resoling.  I'm pretty 
sure that Climbing Mag. followed suit about a month or two later.  They were
pretty detailed and seemed to give good tips.  Unfortunately for me, I wear
old Sportiva Megas.  These have a 1/8" overlap on the rands and are therefore
resoling them is for "professionals" only and should not be tried at home.  I'm
not sure if they had any warnings on Scarpas.

In addition, has anyone out there has actually resoled old Megas (with the extra-
deep arch).  Do you agree that they are hard to do?  Let me know.


-Brad
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: eric@milton.u.washington.edu (Eric Hirst)
Subject: Dogs in Space
Organization: University of Washington
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 01:13:56 GMT

A plug to Washington state climbers to go try out a new, or at least freshly
unearthed, direct start variation pitch to the family favorite Outer Space.
Sometimes netter Rolland Waters and I toiled for many hours to scrub and
install a belay anchor for what turned out to be an excellent route up to
the Two Tree Ledge.  I'm plugging it here on the pretext of generating
enough traffic to keep it clean, but mainly as an ego thing.  Here's the poop:

Laika 5.10b (Laika Dog?)
Pro to 2", quality.
(OK, still a little scruffy, but it doesn't affect the climbing)

Pitch 1:  Start about 50' right of R.P.M. slab and angle left on 4th-5th
class terrain for ~120', then follow a clean groove slightly right (old
fixed pin), then left to a mantle on partially unearthed ledge 40' below
bush in obvious wide 2' roof, 15' right of the start of a recently scrubbed
right facing corner.  2 bolts, slings, curious looking "rap ring" that
really can be trusted (it's an old harness buckle).
5.6, 175' (boulder up a few feet before you start)
Variation: climb R.P.M. slab (5.10d), then angle right.  More than 1 rope
length.

Pitch 2:  Move left into corner, and climb corner to roof (5.8).  Airy and
delicate moves (10a/b, short crux) above truck stoppin' pro lead to solid
finger jams in the crack above the roof.  Follow obvious groove to ledge
and start of Outer Space's 5.9 pitch.  (Corner and roof are illustrated
in Victor Kramer's topos, and are almost directly below the O.S. crux pitch.)
5.10, 140'

I've had fun with this route, especially when I was bombarding Rolland
with moss chunklets (liberated using a wire brush the size of a pushbroom)
while he whacked away at the belay bolts until his wrist ached and his
ears bled.  I'd definitely recommend it over the other Outer Space starts
I've tried.  If anyone out there is inspired to have a go at it before the
snow flies, please send fan mail to me, or hate mail to Rolland.

Eric Hirst
eric@u.washington.edu
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: paale@stud.cs.uit.no (Paal Ellingsen)
Subject: Re: rapelling safety 
Organization: University of Tromsoe, Norway
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 15:19:55 GMT


Hey Benedikt. Nice drawing you posted. However, I wonder why you tie the prusik
on the rope BELOW the rappel device. I use a similar technique myself, but I
normally tie the prusik above the rappel device.
|>
|>   R
|>   R <-- Rope(s)
|>   R
|>   R
|>   R
|>  +-+ <---------  Prusik
|>  |P|
|>  |P|
|>  +-+
|>   R \
|>   R  \
|>   R   \
|>  +-+--+---------+
|>  |B|  | Climber |
|>  |B|  +---------+
|>  +-+<-
|>   R   \
|>   R    \
|>   R     Brake
|>   R

I mean, won't the prusik get stuck in the rappel device if you tie it in below
the brake? But then, I use a figure-of-8 brake. What do you use?


                                        Paal/paale@stud.cs.uit.no


PS. This should have been an email, but something is not working well today,
    dunno what.
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: carhart@netcom.com (Raymond E. Carhart)
Subject: williamson
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 08:29:37 GMT

Has anyone out there climbed at williamson?  It's a sport crag located
in the Angeles Crest national forests in L.A.  It's a solid granite 
crag with slightly overhanging stuff and lots of good solid holds.
I 'm asking in particular about the climb 'Totem Pole' rated 10a.
I tried it and couldn't get past the first bolt.  My partner did it
but said he;d be damned it it were only 10a.  I'd like some first
hand comments.

       Please send responses ufai@mcl.ucsb.edu
From: kim@i5160e.nrl.navy.mil (Ellis Kim)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Climbing within 1.5 hours of Washington, DC?
Date: 2 Oct 92 21:38:00 GMT
Organization: US Naval Research Laboratory, Acoustics Division


Hi, does anybody out there know of light climbing around the Washington,
DC area?  If possible within 1.5 hours of Tyson's Corner.  Up to 2 hours
drive.  I was thinking of some light climbing such as what you can do
along the billy goat trail at cabin john.  Is there anything else around
here for variety's sake?  also do you know of any climbin groups/clubs
in the washington area?  especially some which admit children as young 
as age 9?  i know an awesome little climber who would appreciate the 
info. 
thanks.

-- 

-- Ellis   kim@v5160.nrl.navy.mil
   "First things first. But not necessarily in that order." - Dr. Who
From: 71064.456@CompuServe.COM (Steven Reiser)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: National Climbing Policy!
Date: 29 Sep 92 07:17:45 GMT
Article-I.D.: CompuSer.920929071745_71064.456_CHJ39-2

The October/November 1992 issue of CLIMBING magazine addresses the issue of a 
national climbing policy mentioned in this newsgroup a few weeks ago. The 
article is located on page 56, under "Access", and is entitled, "No More 
Status Quo". The bottom of the first column on page 58 mentions a national 
climbing policy currently undergoing internal review.  The author has informed
me that upon publishing the final draft in the Federal Register, the public 
will have a 60 day review period which is not mentioned in the article.

In the last paragraph, Sam Davidson urges climbers to contact local parks and 
to get involved in responding to the local planning efforts.  In addition, it 
is highly recommended that climbers respond to the National Policy once it is 
published.  This information should first become available via the Access Fund
(Sam Davidson, The Access Fund Coordinator, 159 Nacional Street, Salinas, CA 
93901; (408)424-4705.  The ranger coordinating the National Policy is Maura 
Longden, ranger for City of Rocks National Reserve, P. O. Box 169, Almo, ID.  
Phone:(208)824-5519. Maura has promised to inform me when the document is 
issued for review, so I will post that news here. The future of climbing in 
the US is to be decided soon and each of us can play an important role by 
being part of that decision process and responding to the draft policy.

Steven Reiser, President
Friends of City of Rocks, Inc.


  
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: eugene@wilbur.nas.nasa.gov (Eugene N. Miya)
Subject: Re: Denali
Organization: NAS, NASA Ames Research Center, Moffett Field, CA
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 92 20:56:35 GMT

In article <717765715.F00001@mcws.fidonet.org>
Sung.Kim@f851.n102.z1.fidonet.org (Sung Kim) writes:
>I was wondering, has the climb on Denali been affected by the volcanoe
>eruption near by at all.
>I am thinking about going there next May.

Not the current climbing season.
Ash fowls the surface of the snow making skiing (downhill or skinned)
more difficult, snow mostly sticks.  Depends on the direction of ash plumes.
This has happened in the past.  Ask the Park.

--eugene miya, NASA Ames Research Center, eugene@orville.nas.nasa.gov
  Acting Associate Editor, Software and Publication Reviews
  Scientific Programming
  {uunet,mailrus,other gateways}!ames!eugene
Seeking Books to buy:	Bongard, Pattern Recognition
			Imhof, Cartographic Relief Presentation
			Books on or by Benjamin Whorf
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: SCHENKER@ezzeus (Benedikt Schenker)
Subject: rapelling safety (was: Re: Climber Killed in Yosemite)
Organization: Chem.Eng.Dept. / ETH ZURICH
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 10:06:30 GMT
X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.24

Scott Linn writes:

>When rappelling, there aren't usually safety devices.  There are various
>self-belay methods (shunts, prussiks), but most jam at very inopportune times,
>so they are avoided as being more dangerous.

Here in Switzerland, it is a common practice to
(A) knot the ends of the rappel-rope
(B) to use a prusik as self-belay device

While (A) only secures you from rapelling beyond the end of the rope(s)
(B) saves you against falling when (i) your break fails (ii) you loose
consciousness.

Additional advantages of using a prusik as a self-belay device are:
(1) you can stop and use BOTH hands to manipulate whatever you like
    (fix the rack, hammer in pins for the next rappel, ...)
(2) if you rapel too far, or don't find an appropriate place for
    the next rappel, you have one prusik already on the rope to
    re-ascend.

Jamming the prusik is not very frequent if you are used to the technique
and simply means that you don't move downwards at all, (which introduces no
danger in most situations). With a bit of practice you can always un-jam the
prusik within a few seconds. 

Self-belaying with a prusik is done the follwoing way: 
(Note that the prusik is BELOW the brake and the brake and the prusik 
are attached independently to the climber. You have to attach the prussik 
on the lower part of the harness, and the brake on the upper part, 
so that they cannot interfere. This avoids most bad jams)


  R
  R <-- Rope(s)
  R
  R
  R
 +-+ <--------- Brake
 |B|  
 |B|  
 +-+
  R \
  R  \ 
  R   \
 +-+--+---------+
 |P|  | Climber |
 |P|  +---------+
 +-+<-
  R   \
  R    \ 
  R     Prusik
  R
 KKK  <--- Knot
 KKK  

********************************************************************************
Benedikt Schenker
Technical-Chemical Lab
ETH Zurich

schenker@vmsmail.ethz.ch
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: eugene@wilbur.nas.nasa.gov (Eugene N. Miya)
Subject: Re: Food to take on climbs/ Job opening
Organization: NAS, NASA Ames Research Center, Moffett Field, CA
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 92 22:05:24 GMT

In article <BvGnII.6tu@inews.Intel.COM> brodesky@td2cad.intel.com
(Michael Brodesky) writes:
>	I was wondering what people take on climbs to eat. I have been
>taking fruit snacks, powerbars, granola type bars, fruit, and pop tarts.

Fresh dried pineapple and fresh squeezed OJ from Friend's Packing House in
Ojai, or maybe a salami/crackers or a bagel, or maybe a can of sardines or
kippers or Saba Teriyaki (really good for the sugar and salt, friends take
this to Greenland now ), or stuff which fits into pockets.  Powerbars?
Too expensive.  The above all sound like processed foods.  Sometimes I now
skip lunch and just drink fluids (lemonade, Tang(tm) [oops! talk about
processed], water.  Then make or get a big dinner.  Depends on the climb.

>	On another note, the group I work in in Ca, has three openings

That's another news.group: misc.jobs.offered.entry.

--eugene miya, NASA Ames Research Center, eugene@orville.nas.nasa.gov
  Acting Associate Editor, Software and Publication Reviews
  Scientific Programming
  {uunet,mailrus,other gateways}!ames!eugene
Seeking Books to buy:	Bongard, Pattern Recognition
			Imhof, Cartographic Relief Presentation
			Books on or by Benjamin Whorf
From: calum@ivy.clu.cf.ac.uk (Calum Gordon)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: alt.alpine (was: Climbing Matterhorn)
Date: 26 Sep 92 11:46:23 GMT
Reply-To: Calum Gordon <calum@clu.cf.ac.uk>
Organization: Computational Linguistics Unit, Univ of Wales College of Cardiff

In article <23SEP199221201547@phobos.ucc.umass.edu>
dirk@phobos.ucc.umass.edu (DIRK SUTTER) writes:
>>> 
>>>The Valais is indeed one of the most beautiful areas in the Alps.
>>>Try routes from Saas Fee or Saas Grund - the Allalinhorn e.g. is
>>>certainly one of the easiest mountains over 4000 meters and offers
>>>a magnificant view, but there is the Metro-Alpin (The highest
>>>subway of the world!)  going up and bringing many tourists to the
>>>glacier from whereon you definitely need equipment.  
>>>

Very true. The Saas valley is an excellent base for all types of
alpine routes, particularly for first-season alpinists. We spent two
weeks in Saas-Fee this summer and climbed the above-mentioned mountain
but not (thank God) by the stinking Metro as most others were. It
totally amazes me the way people are climbing in the Alps these days,
it seems its `de rigour' to take mechanical means as high as poss,
stasy in the comfortable huts with food+bed supplied, and then just
slog up the last few meters - what a fallacy. Would-be alpinists are
kidding themselves if they think they've `done a 4000er' when they've
probably done less climbing than on Ben Nevis.

Allalinhorn is often dismissed as a "skier's peak" which is
understandable when you see the ski circus on its slopes and have to
avoid the piz-bruined suntanned brigade on the pistes on the way down.
However, a fine route up the peak is from Brittania Hut, up the
Haulaubgrat (sp) ridge where you can escape the guided Metro
day-trippers slogging up the route normale and enjoy stunning views of
Monte Rosa,Strahlorn,Rimpflischorn, and Matterhorn. Only difficulty is
a rock-band below the summit (V.diff only but exposed and at 4000m.) -
and avoiding get skiied over on the descent of course.

The area is full of worthwhile peaks: we also climbed Mittaghorn,
Lagginhorn and Sonnighorn. Alphubel and Mischabelgrat are awaiting our
next trip...

--
** Calum Gordon <calum@clu.cf.ac.uk>      ** TEL: +44-222-874000-x5310 **
** Computational Linguistics Unit         ** FAX: +44-222-874293       **
** University of Wales College of Cardiff ** JAN: <calum@uk.ac.cf.clu  **
** -----"All men are equal - only some are more equal than others"---- **
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: cptully@med.unc.edu (Christopher P. Tully,Pathology,62699)
Subject: Re: Artificial Walls
Reply-To: cptully@med.unc.edu
Organization: UNC-CH School of Medicine
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 17:35:50 GMT

In article 0001IPC@juts.ccc.amdahl.com, scott.powell@amail.amdahl.com () writes:
>I've got a large wall in the back of my garage and want to install a climbing
>wall.  The dimensions are about 18 to 20 feet high by about 25 feet
>wide.  I am planning on installing an artificial climbing wall there and was
>wondering if anyone has done anything similar?
>
>I have seen 3 different methods.  The first is a resin and crushed rock method
>like the wall at North Carolina State.  The second is the wall at the REI here
>in Cupertino which appears to be made of panels with hexagonal holds placed
>into them.  Finally there's 4x8 sheets of plywood with artificial holds bolted
>on them.
>
>Of the 3 methods the 3rd seems to be the cheapest.  I have found a place that
>claims they can spray a resin and rock mixture.  I haven't any information on
>the type of wall at REI, but am guessing that it would be the most expensive
>type.
>
>Since my budget will be limited, I'll probably go the 4x8 plywood route.
>Still I would like to hear from anyone who has put up a climbing wall of any
>type, their experiences and the advantages/disadvantages of the three methods
>listed above.  I'd also like to hear about any other type of methods.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Scott
>
>| Scott B. Powell, email sbp00@amail.amdahl.com  Expressing my own opinions |
>|                     -- I see the path...Follow me!! --                    |
>|           Amdahl corp. P.O. Box 3470, Sunnyvale, CA. 94088-3470   |


Actually, the wall at North Carolina State is probably the most
expensive type, as it is hand sculpted wire mesh covered in concrete to
resemble natural rock (including pit for lichens and grease build up
from hands - I learned to climb there :)  I would suggest the plywood
and bolted holds, as these are the easiest to change as you master the
routes you originally setup.

chris
---
*********************************************************************
Chris(topher) P. Tully				<cptully@med.unc.edu>
Univ. of North Carolina - Chapel Hill		1122 Vic Charles Dr.
Department of Pathology				Raleigh, NC 27606
CB# 7525			work: (919) 966-2699
Chapel Hill, NC 27599		hone: (919) 851-8816
*********************************************************************
I get paid for my opinions, but that doesn't mean that UNC or anybody
                     else agrees with them.

Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: rogers@teal.csn.org (Roger Spaulding)
Subject: Seeking info on Grivel 2F Crampons
Organization: Colorado SuperNet, Inc.
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 22:11:45 GMT





	Does anyone have any experience with or comments on
	Grivel 2F cramps?


	Roger Spaulding
	Ramtron International Corp.
	Colorado Springs, CO
	rogers@ramtron.com
	(719) 481-7049