HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: fitchitt@wam.umd.edu ()
Subject: Re: Rust protection spray??
Organization: University of Maryland, College Park
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 19:12:16 GMT

In article <fagundes.713418845@vincent1.iastate.edu> fagundes@iastate.edu (Alex Fagundes) writes:
>Hi,
>  I would like to find a good spray for rust protection.  My car
>has some bad rust spots in some areas; is there some kind of 'stuff'
>that will stop the rust from spreading??
>thanx....
>
>

 Take a look at EXTEND, it comes in both spray and "paint" on forms, I suggest
the paint-on. Scrap out as much of the rust as you can with a steel brush,
whatever... then apply this stuff... it reacts with the rust and forms a coat.

Its good for places where its too hard to scrap out ALL of rust, as a
cleaner/better solution is to get it back to bare metal, spray with some
coats of primer, then coats of color.  I know about rust, I have a '81
Datsun 280ZX that I got cheap, but it was in BAD condition....

 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: msingh@copper.ucs.indiana.edu (The Supreme Commander)
Subject: Rotary engine.. what makes it different?
Keywords: tires...
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 15:53:55 GMT

I've been meaning to ask this question for a while now. As an owner of
a new 1993 Mazda 626, I've just recently heard about these rotary
engines. Being an automotive dunce, I'm a bit confused as to what this
really means. How is this engine different/better/worse than others?
I've noticed that Mazda says you can *not* use synthetic oil in this
engine, and I'm sure there must be a good reason for this!



					...Manu


-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------
The Supreme Commander wishes you a Supreme day. 
I'm a Magic Man, oooh, I got the magic hands, yeah...
From: jas20@duts.ccc.amdahl.com (John A Sigmon)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Phone # for Camden Supercharger??
Date: 20 Aug 92 14:43:55 GMT
Reply-To: jas20@DUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (John A Sigmon)
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

Does any one have the area code and phone number for Camden Supercharger,
I think they are in TX.  If you have the number please send it to the above
address.
Thanks,
John Sigmon
From: rakoczynskij@gtephx.UUCP (Jurek Rakoczynski)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Solvent fuels in Go-Kart motors
Date: 18 Aug 92 17:01:59 GMT
Organization: AG Communication Systems, Phoenix, Arizona

In article <1992Aug12.141940.1221@mnemosyne.cs.du.edu>, rbanksjr@nyx.cs.du.edu (Richard E. Banks Jr.) writes:
> 
> Can a pure solvent be run in a Go-Kart motor like naphtha or acetone?
> Will this yield more horsepower than gasoline?
> 
> Or would a mix of solvent and gasoline be optimum?
> 
> Also, what chemicals are used in these octane booster and quick start
> products on the market.
> 
Since your asking about Go-Karts you can probably get the "hot tip"
for fuel blends for your local racing club, karting magazine, karting
shop.

But generally, trying to run an mix consisting mostly of Naphtha,
Benzene/Toluene/Xylene, or similiar high octane mixes will cause
transitional throttle response and high rpm response delays/power
loss.  That's because these chemical's lower vapor pressure, causes
these chemicals to contribute their power later in the power stroke,
and the higher octane resists self-ignition when the higher (and
lower octane) volatiles are already most burned.  You need the higher
volatile components for initial vaporization/ignition/cylinder
pressure increase/etc..

Circle track ran 10+ page articles about 1 year ago on this, and you
can get similiar info in some of the better Chemical reference books
in your library.  I even found some good reference info in my wife's
college chemistry book from 15+ years ago.


-- 
Jurek Rakoczynski, AG Communication Systems, POB 52179, Phoenix, AZ. 85072
UUCP: ...!{ncar!noao!enuucp | att}!gtephx!rakoczynskij  Voice: +1 602 581 4867
Inet: gtephx!rakoczynskij@enuucp.eas.asu.edu              Fax: +1 602 582 7111
Inet: /DD.UN=J.RAKOCZYNSKI/O=GTE/PRMD=GTEMAIL/ADMD=TELEMAIL/C=US/@sprint.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bobp@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (robert.phillips)
Subject: Re: '57 TR3 no engine go jap?
Organization: AT&T
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 12:28:47 GMT

>In >In article <713948443.F00001@blkcat.UUCP> Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory) writes:
> CA> Just what don't you guys like about Lucas kit ?  Is there something
> CA> in particular that has offended you, or is it just because they
> CA> aren't made in the US of A ?
>

This is some kind of joke, right?  I'll be frank about what offends me.
I have a really cute '75 MG Midget that was infested with electrical gremlins.
The turn signal switch is typical.  I'm sure that a couple of sophomores in
a decent design course could put together something better.  The electrical
contact is between what looks for all the world like a bent copper paper clip
and a reasonable facsimile of a copper rivet.  The paper clip is held against
the rivet only by the resistance of the copper to being bent away.  
That is the first problem -- cheap construction.

The second problem is that the contacts are made of copper.  The corrosion
present when I bought the car was impressive, to say the least.  The switch
was obviously non-functional.

The third problem is that a typical designer might put the electrical contacts
at the end of the switch travel, creating a reliable design. Not so Lucas.
The switch is held in neutral by a brittle (due to aging), cheap (by design)
plastic clip that is sadistically used to also keep the switch in the 
left/right turn position.  IF that clip were to break... the switch goes beyond
the left turn position (down). The contacts are not located at the end of travel,
but rather at a position underneath the plane of travel just before the switch
reaches the extreme.  

A fourth problem (and you would need pictures to verify) is that the switch
shatters under normal use by a guy whose only resemblance to 
Schwarzenegger is the hairline.  

The final problem is that replacements for this cheap piece of junk are
pretty expensive.  Multiply this by, oh say, 40% of the electrical components
in the car, and you start to see why Lucas is so villified.


BUT-- and this is a huge BUT, think of how neat the car must be for the owner
to put up with this kind of sadistic torture and STILL love it with no
regrets.  And, as I'm sure someone will note, the '75 Midget is not one of
the more highly regarded or prized British cars (tough -- I STILL think
it is a blast and a half).

Bob Phillips


 
-- 
Bob Phillips
AT&T USL
190 River Rd.
Summit, NJ 07901
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
From: tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen)
Subject: Re: Need Formula For Tire Friction
Followup-To: rec.autos
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 92 18:28:29 GMT

In article <1992Aug15.200403.18303@cabot.balltown.cma.COM> welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty) writes:
>In article <h85mx6k.westes@netcom.com> westes@netcom.com (Will Estes) writes:
>>I recently had a bad experience with a small "toy" spare tire
>>on my Honda Prelude.  After driving on it at 50 mph for only
>>10 miles it heated up almost to the point where it was
>>smoking.
...
>you need to know the characteristics of the tire compound,
>the weight/load on the tire from the car (and its operation),
>the inflation of the tires, and so forth.
       ^^^^
are you sure this tire was properly inflated?
the august issue of C/D has an article about compact spares.
get this: the corvette LT1 ran 0-60 only 0.1 sec slower (in 5.2 sec) with the
compact spare on one of the rear wheels.  here are the numbers:
compact-spare    0-60,      70-0, ft.    emergency double   roadholding, g
location	 sec		  	 lane change, mph
none		 5.1	    165			62.9		.92
front			    174			62.2		.84
rear		 5.2	    174			59.6		.90

i'd venture a guess that the vette was considerably harder on its
compact spare during the 0-60 (300 bhp!) and skidpad runs (tires often start
chunking) than your car was cruising along at 50 mph.  the article says
that during the acceleration runs, the compact spare left a long thin 
stripe of rubber on the pavement (the traction control was turned off).
and besides, a bunch of guys from uniroyal did the One Lap of America
(an 8000+ mile rally) with a compact spare on the rear left wheel.

wow.  those little rubber donuts are pretty tough.
-teddy
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: Toxic parts' disposal?
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 92 07:50:00 GMT

bohdan.l.bodnar (bohdan@cbnewsd.cb.att.com) wrote:
: >
: 
: I had the same questions about a year ago, and ended calling up our town's
: health inspector.  This is the information I was given:
: 
: antifreeze:  flush it down a SANITATION sewer (the ethylene glycol -- probably
: misspelled -- decomposes when exposed to air.  In the U.S., sanitation plants
: deliberately oxygenate the sewage to promote bacterial growth -- this
: oxygenation will destroy the e.g.).
: 
: brake fluid:  put it in a can, wrap in plastic, and throw out.
: 
: The inspector was somewhat upset that better brake fluid disposal was not
: available.

OK, This is fine if you live in an urban blight...er...I mean urban area, but
what about those of us who have our own septic systems & trash disposal means?

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.
hinz@picard.med.ge.com
From: brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: alarm system recommendati
Date: 21 Aug 92 13:06:54 GMT
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC

In article <1992Aug21.051635.2470@mr.med.ge.com> hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987) writes:
>Jeff Masterman (jeff.masterman@cutting.hou.tx.us) wrote:
>
>: Buy a "Club" I don't want to have to listen to yet another false
>: Auto-alarm. (G)...but seriously the HPD says the Club is better anyway.
>: It goes across the steering wheel and prevents it from being turned.
>
>It only stops the wheel from turning if the crook doesn't hacksaw thru the 
>steering wheel.  I agree that it would probably stop joyriders, but if someone
>is taking your car to a chop-shop, they won't hesitate to hack the steering
>wheel.

Maybe I just don't apppreciate the situation, but it seems to me that if you
live in a high theft area, the answer to the problem is to drive something
not worth stealing, or move. I worry enough in a reasonably safe area that I
don't leave my 55 Chevy unattended. Usually, it's locked in the garage. And
I don't drive an expensive commuting car. Besides the fact I can't afford
one :-) , I don't think I could stand to drive or park it where some idiot
could hit or vandalize it.
 
Ted Brooks
 ______________________________________________________________________
| Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are my own, and do not reflect    |
| those of my employer. Advice is free, but you get what you pay for.  |
|                               ________                               |
|                         _____|  1955  |_______                       |
|                        /      Chevrolet      /                       |
|                       /______  BelAir  _____/                        |
|                              |________|                              |
|______________________________________________________________________|
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jsc52962@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Jeffrey S. Curtis)
Subject: Re: 90 Escort GT engine race at idle ?
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 05:02:02 GMT

In article <1992Aug17.232156.20962@tandem.com> norcott_bill@tandem.com  (Bill Norcott) writes:
}As stupid as the EEC-IV is, it will still spill out trouble codes 
}with this kind of problem, so instead of 11 (normal) it will emit
}13 (idle speed) or some such.

Is there any way for normal humans to read the codes off the EEC-IV,
or do you *have* to pay the $50-$60 for your friendly Ford dealer
to do it?

Jeff
--
*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*
+ Jeffrey S. Curtis sidewinder@uiuc.edu + "Watch the world argue / Argue with +
* "To be great is to be misunderstood." *  itself / Who's going to teach me / *
+ "Insist on yourself - never imitate." +  peace and happiness?" -- INXS      +
*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: DEVILBISS@OCTAVE.LARC.NASA.GOV (Zaphod Beeblebrox)
Subject: Re: SURVEY: Home mechanic's favorites
Reply-To: DEVILBISS@OCTAVE.LARC.NASA.GOV (Zaphod Beeblebrox)
Organization: NASA Langley Research Center, Hampton, VA USA
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 15:58:40 GMT

 In article <1992Aug12.004534.19969@athena.cs.uga.edu> James P. H. Fuller,
fuller@athena.cs.uga.edu writes:
>     I'd like to vote loudly and often for Jeeps.  They've been making
>basically the same design since forever, they're simple as lawnmowers
>and you can crawl under them without jacking them up.

Jeep Wrangler . . . You can reach into the engine compartment & actually get two hands around the 
oil filter when changing the oil.  And that's without banging up your hands. . . . Dave 

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
        If we were not crazy, we would go insane.
        If we could not laugh, we would go insane!     J. Buffett
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
From: Steve.Kaess@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Steve Kaess)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Spark plug wire help
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 01:30:35 -0500

 > In rec.autos.tech, Tom Santos <tom_santos@taligent.com>
 > writes:
 >
 > >Ooops.  My car doesn't have spark plug wires... no alternator.
 >  My
 > >mixture is still rich though.
 >
 > All right guy, lets get real.  I've heard of some car which
 
 
He has a saab 9000, or one of a few gmodels, but my bet is the saab



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: Spark plug wire help
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 92 09:55:35 GMT

Steve Kaess (Steve.Kaess@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org) wrote:
:  > In rec.autos.tech, Tom Santos <tom_santos@taligent.com>
:  > writes:
:  >
:  > >Ooops.  My car doesn't have spark plug wires... no alternator.
:  >  My
:  > >mixture is still rich though.
:  >
:  > All right guy, lets get real.  I've heard of some car which
:  
: He has a saab 9000, or one of a few gmodels, but my bet is the saab

Nope, he says it's a Nissan.

Boy, isn't this thread annoying, what with all the short messages?

On a lighter note, perhaps the platinum plugs are junk.  I've never been
happy with platinums.  The NGK plugs that I'm using are close to the only
Japanese stuff in my car ('88 SAAB 900T)

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.
hinz@picard.med.ge.com
From: nall@sun8.scri.fsu.edu (John Nall)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Gasoline in diesel engines....
Date: 18 Aug 92 18:52:24 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Organization: SCRI, Florida State University

Scary title, huh?  Well, it scared me, too, when my wife told
me that she went tooling off in my diesel-powered car and when
she stopped to fill it up at the gas station, she started to
put gasoline in instead of diesel fuel.  Her car, of course,
is gas powered, and she hardly ever drives mine.

Luckily, she smelled the diesel fuel when she took off the
cap, said "whoa!" and did the right thing.

But....I was wondering....what would have happened had she
done so?  My intuition says "nothing good", but is that right?
Would it just not run?  Blow up?  Run better?  What?
(Yes, I know the theory behind diesel engines.  Squirting in
the oil, high compression, etc.  I just don't know what the
chemistry is when gasoline is compressed rather than diesel).

John

--
John W. Nall              | Supercomputer Computations Research Institute
nall@mailer.scri.fsu.edu  | Florida State University, Tallahassee, FL 32306
 "Busted flat in Baton Rouge, waiting fer a train......" - Damnit, Janis,
    I can forgive the drugs and the sex, but not your dying so early!!
From: berger@atropa (Mike Berger)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Aerostar info (tuneups, etc)
Date: 12 Aug 92 20:37:17 GMT
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana

jmasters@pcocd2.intel.com (Justin Masters) writes:
>I'm looking for a van, and I'd previously scratched the 
>Aerostar (made by Ford), but in a conversation the other
>day, I found a friend who can get me one for a pretty 
>decent price.  The reason I'd scratched the Aerostar off
>my list before was because of my doing the tuneup work, and 
>I found very little to no room in the Aerostar engine
>compartment.  I admit, I didn't look very well, but am
>just wondering if I may have been too presumptuous to think
>that there isn't room for doing basic tuneup work.  What does
>it take?  Do I need to lower the engine?  Please let me know.
*----
I'm on my second Aerostar - the second Ford I've owned - and I
love it.  You're right about the engine compartment space.  On
the positive side, there is v-e-r-y little tune-up work to do,
and you can easily change the spark plugs from the bottom after
you remove the front wheels.  Really!  Hey, you can reach the
oil filter pretty easily.

Most minivans are no better in engine accessibility.
--
	Mike Berger
	Department of Statistics, University of Illinois
	AT&TNET     217-244-6067
	Internet    berger@atropa.stat.uiuc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: fagundes@iastate.edu (Alex Fagundes)
Subject: Color Match - Bullsh*t
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames IA
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 15:26:28 GMT

Hi,
  I recently tried this color match crap on my 76 Mavery and the front of
my car now looks like trash!  Appearently this stuff does not work at all
with somekinds of paint.  

     fagundes@iastate.edu
        -another idiot who believed tv commercials!

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: (Eric Youngblood)
Subject: Re: How do I start working on my A/C?
Reply-To: Peon w/o Email priv (Eric Youngblood)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Richardson, Tx
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 22:17:48 GMT

In article <23529@oasys.dt.navy.mil>, plumpe@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Plumpe) writes:
|> In rec.autos.tech, iseman@chopin.udel.edu (Stephen Early) writes:
|> >In article <1992Aug10.124354.1@pa881a.inland.com> nason@pa881a.inland.com write
|> >s:
|> >>>
|> >>
|> >>Assuming your in Engineering school, the theory in not too difficult.
|> >>Refrigerant is exposed to low pressure, boils, and therefor absorbs heat.
|> >
|> >WHAT!, NO NO NO.
|> 
|> 		    *YES* *YES* *YES*
|> 
|> >First of all, refrigerant exposed to low pressure will cool.
|> >
|> >Second, if a substance boils it certainly does NOT absorb heat-it gives heat
|> >off.
|> >
|> >Steve
|> 
|> 		    *NO* *NO* *NO*
|> 
|> The original poster is correct!  A liquid (such as R-12, or water for
|> that matter) subjected to a sufficiently low pressure will evaporate
|> rapidly (boil).  It requires heat (the heat of vaporization) to boil;
|> its temperature will drop to attract heat from something else (like
|> the A/C evaporator fins).  When it draws heat from that evaporator, the
|> evaporator loses heat and gets cold.
|> 
|> A boiling substance *must* absorb heat in order to boil.  Boiling water
|> on the stove will seem to give off heat because it is hotter than its
|> surroundings, but it must absorb more heat from the stove than it gives
|> off or it won't boil.
|> 
|> -DaveP

I couldnt have said it better.

Thankyou.

Ericy
From: babineau@spxtech.qc.ca (Andre Babineau)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 82 Scirocco
Date: 10 Aug 92 13:06:37 GMT
Distribution: us
Organization: Securiplex Technologies Inc., Montreal, Canada
X-Bytes: 866

From article <wwhitman.712997220@hopi>, by wwhitman@hopi.intel.com (Wendy Whitman):
> Email me if you need more help with the '82 - I know it inside and
> out.  It is a *great* car.
> 
I own a '83 scirocco which has exactly the same engine. (1,7l 76hp)
Here is my problem:
     -At idle, the car shakes so much that I think that it will
      fall into parts :) (I don't want that because I love the car)
      but it is really annoying.

The head has been rebuilt three months ago (main bearings has been
changed at the same time). The engine mounts has been changed also.
The car runs extremly well on the highway but I'm getting tired
whenever I'm driving it in town.

Have any idea what I could do to cure that "parkinson" problem?

Thanks,

Andre Babineau,                 Securiplex Technologies Inc.
babineau@spxtech.qc.ca          Montreal, Quebec   CANADA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: tuomasp@mits.mdata.fi (Tuomas Paasiala)
Subject: Re: Toyota Corrola Spark Plug Gap
Organization: Microdata Oy, Helsinki, Finland
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1992 17:19:55 GMT


>no gap. Does anyone know the gap for my 4-cylender 1.6 L?

Here in Finland Toyota Corolla's spark plug gap is 0.8 Millimeter.
-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------
| Tuomas Paasiala        | Never believe what computer tells you. | 
| Tuomasp@mits.mdata.fi  |                                        |
-------------------------------------------------------------------
From: prmx@vax5.cit.cornell.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Taurus AC? 
Date: 19 Aug 92 13:09:27 EDT
Distribution: rec
Organization: Cornell University

Howdy!

I know that we recently had a looong thread on this topic, so I hope that you
folks will withhold all flames, and e-mail me with the answer.

My '86 Taurus needs to have the airconditioning recharged.  Do I need to use
R-12 or R-22.  The only product that seems to be available over the counter
in my neck of the woods is the R-22.

Oh, and thanks to the many that replied to my question about silicone and
head gasket installation.  I took the suggestions of many into consideration
when I decided to go without the goo on the intake manifold gasket.  After
nearly a week, the car is operating well, without a single leak.

Thanks,

Peter Morenus
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech