HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: young@tellabs.com (Craig Young)
Newsgroups: rec.audio
Subject: Re: Need New CD Deck Recomendations!
Date: 24 Jul 92 17:21:29 GMT
Organization: Tellabs, Inc., Lisle, IL

In article <50982@seismo.CSS.GOV> denio@seismo.CSS.GOV (Dennis O'Neill) writes:
>In article <23270@alice.att.com> andrew@alice.att.com (Andrew Hume) writes:
>>
>>
>>	i used the adcom whilst demoing speakers on the weekend.
>>the user interface sucks. all the buttons are mono-sized and
>>not well laid out. the sound was competent but i'd reject it
>>on usability grounds alone.
>
>I must disagree.  I own an Adcom CD player (GCD-575), and, while it
>doesn't have the best possible control layout ("user interface"), it's
>perfectly usable for me.  I've never had any trouble using any of the controls.
>The buttons I use most, namely "Play" and "Open/Close", are at the ends of
>their respective rows and easy to find.  All (or at least most) of the
>other features are accessible from the remote, and
>that's where I use them anyway.
>
>That said, there may well be players on the market with better sound
>for comparable price, as the Adcom is now several years old.  Or maybe
>not.  Listen first and worry about the "user interface" (sheesh) fourth.
>
>Dennis O'Neill
>-- 
>Dennis O'Neill (denio@seismo.css.gov)

I have to second Dennis' comments. I too, own an Adcom CD player. While I
bought it based on sound and construction quality, I have not had any 
problems with the user interface.

I use the remote about 60% of the time, but also use the front panel. The
class-A headphone amp and absolute polarity switch are nice touches.

In it's price range, from a sound standpoint, I would not sell it short. This
player is available for around $475, and is close in sound quality to the
Rotels, but is built considerably better. Check the drawer quality. All in
all, this machine makes a pretty good transport in it's price range.

Craig Young
Newsgroups: rec.audio
From: lancer@wpi.WPI.EDU (Stephen Lewis Foskett)
Subject: Need help with speaker/crossover building
Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute, Worcester, MA 01609-2280
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 14:54:45 GMT


Hi, all!

I need some net.advice about my speakers.  Here's the story:

I bought Yamaha NSA-570s 2 years ago.  They were hooked to an old(er)
Fisher receiver.  Thanks to the lovely power system here in Worcester, the
amp toasted one of it's ICs and sent a spike through the speakers which
seems to have "fused" a woofer.  (ie:  the cone does not move, there is
infinite resistance over the leads)

This leaves me with 1 12" woofer, 2 3" midranges, and 2 2" tweeters.  I'm
using them minus one woofer until I can get something better, this time
powered by a brand new Kenwood KR-A5040.  I've also got the line
surge-protected... 

What I want to know is this:  Can I use my remaining woofer as a subwoofer?
If so, can someone send me a diagram for a crossover so it'll take the lows
of both channels and send the mid/high to the mid and tweeter?  I'd also
like some advice on an enclosure for the woofer and the other speakers.
They currently reside in two ~4 foot high cabinets.

Please email and I'll save the information and pass it on to anyone else
thinking of similar things.  Or I'll post if there's enough interest...

Thanks a lot, all!

.s.

PS:  Anyone want a Fisher receiver with a separate dual casette deck and
tuner?  I'll sell it cheap...
--
- so spake lancer@wpi.wpi.edu - - such is the way of the plague: -
-   Mr. Sandman makes a filthy bed for me but I shall not rest   -
- And I will not rest as a man who has been blinded by the storm -
-                And waits for angels by the road                -
Newsgroups: rec.audio
From: chrisk@hercules.esd.sgi.com (Chris Kotsiopoulos)
Subject: Re: Need Abuse
Keywords: JVC XL-Z1050TN
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc.
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 00:05:24 GMT

In article <1992Jul29.200417.3193@cs.ucf.edu>, tech@cs.ucf.edu (Tony
Travaglini) writes:
|> I just went out and bought (on the advice of a friend)  a JVC
|> XL-1050TN CD player for $625 which I love dearly. However,
|> considering
|> the way my life has been going lately I just know that I could
|> have
|> gotten something twice as good at half the price. Your mission;
|> tell
|> me what I should have gotten. I am feeling too good about this
|> purchase and am in need of some straightening out. 
|> 
|> Come on! You can do it.
|> 
|> Tony Travaglini
|> tech@cs.ucf.edu

You should have gotten a new friend.
Then you need to rid yourself of this undue guilt.
At least you have $625 to blow on a fancy CD player.
How about those of us who have to content ourselves
with a $99 Citizen Portable plugged into our pathetic
little Yorx boom box we got for Christmas from
our now-dead gramdmother?

Quitcherbellyakin'

CK
From: park@umnstat.stat.umn.edu (Chongsun Park)
Newsgroups: rec.audio
Subject: Re: Good Quality Speakers?
Date: 24 Jul 92 04:35:43 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: School of Statistics, University of Minnesota


In article <1992Jul23.111046.2005@merrimack.edu> desmondw@merrimack.edu writes:
>
>     Does anyone know a good pair of speakers that deliver deep bass. I
>posted earlier about Bose 601's and got a negative response from everyone
>who replied. I went to one place where a guy showed me Tannoys(?) and I
>didn't care for them. The bass was no where to be found. It sounded
>good overall, but I wanted more punch.

 As far as I know, we can expect real deep bass only from woofer larger than
 15 inches in its diameter. I think JBL 4344 or JBL Paragon-55000 or JBL
 Project K2 will give all you need.

 chongsun
Newsgroups: rec.audio
From: bdupuis@sandman.ingr.com (Brian Dupuis)
Subject: Re: Surround Sound questions
Keywords: need advice
Reply-To: bdupuis@sandman.ingr.com (Brian Dupuis)
Organization: Intergraph Corporation
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 92 15:52:45 GMT

> 
> 
> I have a pair of Pioneer HPM-100 speakers and I have been offered a
> pair of JBL-2500 speakers to use as rear chanel speakers.  How well
> will these speakers work as rear speakers?  Also do I need a subwoofer

  I use a pair of 2500's for my rear/side speakers.  I really have no
complaints whatsoever.  I gather you are going to use them for surround
applications,  but as I have no surround processor,  I can't adequately
comment on their merits for this purpose.  As rear/side reinforcements,
they sound fine to me.  Of course,  I'm stuck on JBL anyway.  I'm 
running a pair of 4410's for the front channel.

> 
> mdlawler@bsu-cs.bsu.edu
> 00mdlawler@bsuvax1.bitnet
> 00mdlawler@bsuvc.bsu.edu
> 
--
/****************************************************************/
/* Brian Dupuis                | "Since you're here,  and since */ 
/* bdupuis@sandman.b15.ingr.com|  I'm here,  doesn't that make  */
/* b15 907B                    |  it OUR time?"                 */
/* Phone: X1548                |                                */
/* Go NOLES!                   |  J. Spicoli (?) - FTARH        */  
/****************************************************************/
Newsgroups: rec.audio
From: bower@pecan.cns.udel.edu (Tyson Bower)
Subject: Wanted: Source for Drivers
Organization: University of Delaware, Newark
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 03:08:37 GMT

I'm looking for a good source for drivers.  I'm thinking about building
a small(ish) set of speakers.  This is a project mostly contrived
out of a desire to see if I can do it, partially out of sheer boredom,
so low cost is definately a factor.

I think a want an 8 in woofer, preferably with a low free-air resonance
(Fs or Fo, call it what you like) and a reasonably high resonance
magniication (Qts, approx .5 to .9).  I need these qualities because
I want to use it in a nice, simple acoustic suspension design.  I 
don't feel like fooling with a vented enclosure.  I suppose it would
be nice if I could keep the price under $50.  Any more than that, and
I don't think it would be a worthwhile project.

I don't know of any good sources for such a driver here in Delaware.
(Radio Shack? Nah...)  Does anyone know of a good company where I could
mail order a set of drivers?

I suppose while I'm at it, I should also be looking for a tweeter of
sorts.  Any recommendations on that?

Thanks.

                                            -Ty

(Just in case I sound like I have no clue what I'm doing, and you
think I'm going about this in a completely haphazard way, I reassure
this is not the case.  I _DO_ have some idea what I'm doing.  This
is still mostly a learning experience for me, tho, so that's why
all the uncertainty about the exact specs for the parts.  Any help/
advice/personal experience sharing is greatly appreciated.)

Newsgroups: rec.audio
From: tlode@nyx.cs.du.edu (trygve lode)
Subject: Nikko NCD-600 woes
Organization: Nyx, Public Access Unix @ U. of Denver Math/CS dept.
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 92 19:21:21 GMT

 
I seem to have picked up a Nikko NCD-600 CD changer (holds 60 CDs) which,
unfortunately, has the problem that when attempting to play a CD, it loads
it, spins it for a while, and then puts it back.  I've tried to get ahold
of a service manual for this beast, but this has proven more difficult
than expected, since Nikko currently denies any knowlege of this CD player.
 
Does anyone out there know where I might get ahold of a service manual
for this player or know of a place that would service it for a reasonable
price?
 
Thanks in advance,
tlode@nyx.cs.du.edu

Newsgroups: rec.audio
From: tech@cs.ucf.edu (Tony Travaglini)
Subject: Re: HELP! Very noisy tape deck. Ideas?
Organization: University of Central Florida, Orlando
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 16:28:06 GMT

In article <3340223@hpcc01.corp.hp.com> seghers@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (David Seghers) writes:
>Before I take my tape deck in for repair, I thought I would find out
>if anyone has seen this problem:  One well of my dual well cassette deck
>has suddenly gotten VERY noisy, even without a tape!  The level "meters"
>for both channels max out, and all you can hear is a loud hum. Any ideas?
 
 You have a ground problem somewhere. As in loose or disconnected.

 Tony Travaglini
 tech@cs.ucf.edu
Newsgroups: rec.audio
From: niranjan@sbgrad10.cs.sunysb.edu (Niranjan)
Subject: Tape head cleaning.
Organization: State University of New York at Stony Brook
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 23:48:00 GMT

I remember some post mentioning that Isopropyl Alcohol is recommended
as a head cleaner. Just wanted to check if that was true, it is really
safe etc. Also, should that be 100% Isopropanol is should I dilute it?

Thanks,

-Niranjan.
From: ttak@troi.cc.rochester.edu (Tim Takahashi)
Newsgroups: rec.audio
Subject: Re: Best news about LPs...
Date: 30 Jul 92 01:30:58 GMT
Organization: University of Rochester (Rochester, NY)

In article <1992Jul28.151852.6016@muddcs.claremont.edu> jstimson@jarthur.claremont.edu (John Stimson) writes:
>In article <5=mm=2#.vlad@netcom.com> vlad@netcom.com (Vladimir Kuznetsov) 
>writes:

>>And it is not the first time in history. In a past, they replaced
>>superb sound of 78 RPM's for definitely inferior sound of LP's. Then
>>they invented "stereo" that was no more then a marketing gimmic, 
>>just to extort more money from us. Now it is CD.

>Huh.  If you think stereo was an "inferior medium" then it's no wonder
>you don't like CDs!  Too much accuracy for you, I guess...

Of course the original author may have been making a tounge-in-cheek comment,
then again he might not. In any case, he is largely correct. At the time
of the 78/45/LP the old technology of 3-5 minute direct-to-disk uncompressed
recording was repaced by magnetic tape. To this day, magnetic tape mastering
is considered to be inferior to direct-to-disk.

I have many 78 rpm disks that are astoundingly life-like in precense
despite having slightly more surface noise (much less than you'd think)
than a good LP and a restricted frequency response. How many years did
it take for the LP to surpass 78rpm sonics? 5-10 years it seems. And
then they gave us stereo and a host of other problems, record wear -
inner groove distortion, etc. yet the old mono records recorded with
a single microphone were soon superseeded by mixdowns from stereo masters.
Stereo FM is a kludge and disaster compared to mono FM. Fm was supposed
to be staticless - cheap stereo FM sure isn't.

Digital recording has its pro and con as well. Early digital recordings
are harsh. How many years did it take for things to get better? 10?
How many digitally remastered analog LP's were issured before the final
demise of the LP? the worst of both worlds, IMHO?

The CD is technically better than the 78. But artistically, it isn't
as revolutionary as you'd suggest? Have you listened?

tim
From: andrew@alice.att.com (Andrew Hume)
Newsgroups: rec.audio
Subject: Re: Good Quality Speakers?
Summary: other alternatives
Date: 24 Jul 92 18:58:46 GMT
Article-I.D.: alice.23310
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories, Murray Hill NJ



	i don't recall your price range, but the snell e/iii's
have a really good bass ($990). if that is too much, try the
cheaper Fried speakers (Q/4 $500). Both these speakers sound
good as well as give good bass.
Newsgroups: rec.audio
From: gmc@analog.mlb.semi.harris.com (Jerry Cotreau)
Subject: Re: Advice on ordering from J$R Music World
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 12:23:25 GMT
Distribution: world 
Reply-To: gmc@analog.mlb.semi.harris.com (Jerry Cotreau)
Organization: ANALOG

I wrote:

 >>I do have one caveat, however. I have noticed that in the last
 >>couple of years their quoted prices have gone up, to the point that
 >>often I can beat their price locally. The first time I pointed this out
 >>they immediately lowered their price, and I ended up offering an
 >>even lower price which they accepted. Since then I have had
 >>to barter on every order, and have gotten prices lowered by
 >>10% - 20%, pretty substantial discount from their initial
 >>telephone quote.

To which brennan@hal.com (Dave Brennan) writes:

 >In-reply-to: gmc@analog.mlb.semi.harris.com's message of 23 Jul 92
13:47:22 GMT
 >
 >How do you typically get them down on a price?  Do you have to mention some
 >one else's lower price or what?  What are people's experiences with the
 >best way to get places, mail-order or local, to knock their prices down?
 >
 >Inquiring minds want to know!

I am of the opinion that mail order prices need to be cheaper by around
$50, or 20%, whichever is bigger. to justify giving up the advantages of
buying locally. I usually check out the best price I can get locally,
which aren't too bad anymore since we now have 3 electronic superstores
in the area. Sometimes I also call another mail order place. Then I call
J&R. Lately their price will always be close to my local price. I just
tell them their price is high but that I am prepared to buy one right
then and there if it were cheaper and then offer them 20% less. 100% of
the time they lower the price. Sometimes they take my price, sometimes
they make a counter offer. If I have done my homework and can say I
can get it for $XX at YY store, and they have to beat that price
substantially for me to go mailorder, they always do. As an example,
recently I bought a Technics dual cassette recorder. List price $330,
local price (McDuff's) $260, J&R quote $250, another mail order place
$219. I gave these prices to J&R and they offered the deck for $219
delivered, which I accepted.

As I said, in every other way, J&R is first class. I am willing to go
to some bother because I know if I order from them I will get exactly
what I expect and they will stand behind it. They are a solid older
company that intends to stay around.




----------------------------------------------------------------------




----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: ob00@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (OLCAY BOZ)
Newsgroups: rec.audio
Subject: What is SONY WAREHOUSE?
Date: 21 Jul 92 05:42:40 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

Could somebody give information about SONY WAREHOUSE? Thanks in advance
-- 

         -----------------------------------------------------------------
         |  OLCAY BOZ                     |  OB00@NS1.CC.LEHIGH.EDU      |
         |  LEHIGH UNIVERSITY             |                              |
         |  COMPUTER SCIENCE DEPARTMENT   |                              |
         |  Ph. D. Student                |  phone : (215) 758-1886      |
         -----------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.audio
From: ianchan@leland.Stanford.EDU (Ian Hin Yun Chan)
Subject: Re: DIY components
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 92 06:19:26 GMT

Who knows what DIY components are available out there? I'm specifically
interested in CD players (transports & DACs), amps (integrated or pre/pwr).
and speakers (esp. subs). Are there any worth checking out? Or are the regular
commercial stuff definitely better?
What does the net think of Hafler pre/power kits?
I'll summarize to the net if there's enough to summarize!
- Ian
Xref: sparky rec.audio:11030 rec.video:9784
From: brown@vidiot.UUCP (Vidiot)
Newsgroups: rec.audio,rec.video
Subject: Re: Setting up center channel for Pro-Logic
Keywords: Pro-Logic, center channel
Date: 30 Jul 92 04:02:35 GMT
Reply-To: brown@vidiot.UUCP (Vidiot)
Distribution: na
Organization: Vidiot's Hangout

In article <381@bit.UUCP> grego@bit.UUCP (Grego Sanguinetti) writes:
<In response to several recent postings about Pro-logic setups and center
<channels:
<
<I have had my Pro-logic setup for about 3 years now and have tried a
<number of configurations. Here's some random thoughts:
<
<- if you use an active subwoofer filter, use it on the front (main) stereo
<  channel. Remember the center channel is rolled off at 100Hz. Don't use
<  the filter before the pro-logic processor (see previous note).

You lost me here.  If you connect the sub-woofer to the main CT-17 center
output and that output has a 100 Hz rolloff, how is the sub-woofer supposed
to get any signal level?

<BTW: I use a Carver CT-17 for the pro-logic processor and ADCOM amps.

Hey, I have that unit (CT-17).  I use the remote audio chain as an input
feed for my video production audio mix.  I use the unit in phantom mode,
since I have no way to put in a real center channel speaker.

The amps I use are Carver Cubes.
-- 
      harvard\     att!nicmad\          spool.cs.wisc.edu!astroatc!vidiot!brown
Vidiot  ucbvax!uwvax..........!astroatc!vidiot!brown
      rutgers/            INTERNET:vidiot!brown%astroatc.UUCP@spool.cs.wisc.edu
                                   brown@wi.extrel.com
From: amigo@milton.u.washington.edu (The Friend)
Newsgroups: rec.audio
Subject: Adcom amplifier specifications
Date: 23 Jul 92 21:27:52 GMT
Organization: University of Washington


	I'm interested in specs on the Adcom GFA-xxx II line of amplifiers...
If someone can post about the upper-end models 555II, 565, 585, that'd
be great..

						Thanks,
							Mike
From: amigo@milton.u.washington.edu (The Friend)
Newsgroups: rec.audio
Subject: MOSFETs & "tube sound
Date: 31 Jul 92 01:35:45 GMT
Organization: University of Washington


	I've noticed a recent trend for amplifier/pre-amplifier manufacturers
to use the term "tube-like sound" when refering to MOSFET transistors being
used. What I'm wondering is why is a MOSFET transistor like a tube tranistor?
Seems from all reasoning that they are superior in a lot of ways to tubes.
One is thermal stability.. any others - its in interesting discussion..


				--> Mike
From: philip+@pitt.edu (Philip Wong)
Newsgroups: rec.audio
Subject: Help Needed for choosing components
Date: 26 Jul 92 03:59:13 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: University of Pittsburgh

I've got a friend who wants to get a receiver, a pair of speakers, and a 
dual auto reverse tape deck for about $800.  I'm not caught up in the current
low-mid end equipment so thought to ask here.  Any recommendations?

I was thinking about a Pioneer or Sony DSP receiver (perhaps with pro logic
surround for use later when she wans to expand system).  She expressed an
interest in a Onkyo tape deck (i'm not sure why).  I am most lost on speakers.
I have no idea what to go for.  Compactness is a plus...definitely nothing
larger than a 3'x1'.

I recommended she spend the most on the receiver (since she can'
t get good speakers anyway) then speakers then tape deck.  The breakdown would
be about 300-400 for receiver, 200-300 for speakers, and 200-300 for tape deck.

Models and makes would be much much appreciated.

What do you think about the JBL Pro Performers for a couple compact good sounding
speakers?  Compactness is pretty important.

Thanks much for any help.

Post or email would be fine (email would be preferred).
From: osyjm@cs.montana.edu (Jaye Mathisen)
Newsgroups: rec.audio
Subject: Money to blow, need good AV receiver or component recommendations
Date: 24 Jul 92 03:28:43 GMT
Organization: CS



I have a budget of appx $1000 - $1500 to spend on a good Prologic receiver,
or buy it a'la carte.

I've gone and looked at the stuff available in this area, and the pickings
are pretty slim.

I liked the Pioneer VSX-DS1, but I got some "negative" comments from
other netters on it.  Which is fine, I'm easy.

I've gotten recommendations to look at Onkyo, but I have no local dealers,
so need to get a line on which models I should look for to maybe check
out other places, maybe a trip out to Seattle or somesuch.

I looked at some Yamaha stuff, but haven't found any reviews.

I've been told to stay away from Sony, but who knows?

Anyway, your opinions, comments, even descriptions of what you have and
like would be cool.

Thanks.  Please e-mail.  If demand warrants, I'll summarize and post.

PS... I need at least 4 video inputs, 8 audio inputs, multi-room capability
if possible, 5 channel prologic, lots of doo-dads.  I'm a gadget freak.
-- 
 Jaye Mathisen, COE Systems Manager                (406) 994-4780
 410 Roberts Hall,Dept. of Computer Science
 Montana State University,Bozeman MT 59717	osyjm@cs.montana.edu
From: casey@bradley.bradley.edu (Chris Langston)
Newsgroups: rec.antiques
Subject: Re: Old Cuckoo Clock
Date: 28 Jul 92 17:16:42 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Bradley University

In <Bs2G8L.FMn@cs.psu.edu> okunewck@psuvax1.cs.psu.edu (Phil OKunewick) writes:

>   BTW - I saw a very bizarre grandfather clock at an antique shop
>yesterday.  It looks like a hybrid between a clock and a picket fence.

>   After looking it over a bit, I realized it started life as a wall
>clock.  The case was dismantled, keeping the wood that held the coiled
>gong on the back.  A semi-open frame was built out of oak timbers and
>lag bolts, after which a fairly convincing antiquing job was done.  A
>new face was made, using 1.5" brass numbers screwed onto bare wood.

>   Unfortunately, the oak wasn't properly seasoned before the frame
>was built; as a result it's warped to one side.  But it sure looks
>interesting.  Price is about $600, which I think is way out of line.

  Well I hate to tell you this...but it is origanal..

New Haven clock company made the most of them. They are called "Mission 
Grandfathers" I have owned several of them. they were also made by 
Sessions, Waterbury, and a few by Seth Thomas. They were a cheep way to
make a grandfather clock. Most of them used a mantal clock movment 
with the escape wheel changed to get a longer drop of the pendulem. 
As for the price. Well that is about what they are bringing if you 
can find a collector who likes them.   
-- 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Unknown Indian Chief "Iron Horse bad medicine"                              -
- Unknown Army Scout   "What do you think is good medicine?"                  -
- Unknown Indian Chief "Milk of Magnesia"                                     -
- Chris Langston  casey@bradley.bradley.edu                                   -
Newsgroups: rec.antiques