HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: sm@cel.co.uk (salim mehta)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: 430 EZ flash for Canon
Date: 11 Sep 92 08:31:58 GMT
Organization: Crosfield Electronics Ltd.
In-reply-to: alexm@nmr-z.mgh.harvard.edu's message of 9 Sep 92 14:51:18 GMT

In article <1992Sep9.145118.22378@nmr-z.mgh.harvard.edu> alexm@nmr-z.mgh.harvard.edu (Alex Milshteyn) wrote:
> But they list two different models, which they list as follows:
> 430 ez w/Case (Meter) - $204.95
> 430 ez w/Case (feet) - $224.95
> What the heck is the difference for AF flash and camera?

The 430EZ can display its coupling range, ie. *you* set the aperture and
shutter speed you want to use, and the flash will display on its LCD panel
how near/far the subject can be (in manual mode).

The reason the imperial (feet) option costs more than the metric is obvious:
you always have to pay more for antique value.

SI rules OK



--
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Salim Mehta                             Phone :  +44 442 230000  x3450
Crosfield Electronics Ltd               Fax   :  +44 442 232301
Hemel Hempstead  HERTS HP2 7RH  UK      Email :  sm@crosfield.co.uk
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
     Alt email :  sm@cel.uucp     ...!{mcsun,uknet,uunet}!cel!sm
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: tjlow@ntuvax.ntu.ac.sg
Subject: Q: use of simple Flash
Organization: Nanyang Technological University - Singapore
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1992 02:36:39 GMT

Some question about Usage of a simple flash.

Prob1.  Using a direct flash gives shadow, and makes the face flat.
       	I need to take a portrait, in door, with only a camera and an attached 
	flash (no TTL flash)
       	So I figured I should use bounce flash, from the ceiling.
Q 1.	If the face is 2m from the camera, and 
	the bounce flash distance (camera-ceiling-face) is 4m, 
	How strong should my flash setting be, relative to the direct flash? 
                                                        
Prob 2. (The subject is an indoor dinner around a round table with a group 
	 of rowdy people)
	I don't  have a TTL flash .
	And Have to use f8 and 1/60, bcoz of flash sync and the need 
	to get enuff depth. 
	Accordingly, I used the flash's manual mode recommended distance of 4m.
	Anyway,
	I find that my photos taken with the above setting is always on 
	the darker side.
	The printer always seems to need to use extra intensity to brighten my
	prints.                   
                                
Q 2-1.	Does any one encounter similar situation, ie. abit too dark?

Q 2-2. 	Is it better to use more than the recomended flash power to get 
	the details( and risk the faces overexposed) and let the printer 
	tone it down. 
	Or Adhere to the recomended flash distance (and risk the face
	underexposed) and let the printer intensify it?
From: rah@public.BTR.COM (Richard A Hyde  rah@btr.com)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Canon EOS Elan
Date: 10 Sep 92 01:38:29 GMT
Organization: BTR Public Access UNIX, MtnView CA. Contact: Customer Service cs@BTR.COM

The July, 1992 edition of Popular Photography has the test report on the
Elan.  I bought one two months ago and love it! 

Rick

-- 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
|   Richard Hyde  |  RaH@btr.com  |    This space intentionally left blank   |
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: pojee@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Any info about Cannon EF 80-200/4.5,5.6 lens?
Date: 13 Sep 92 01:32:24 GMT
Reply-To: pojee@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu ()
Distribution: usa
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin, Austin TX
Originator: pojee@happy.cc.utexas.edu


	Hi network readers,


		I am planning to buy the EF 80-200 mm/4.5,5.6 lens.
	My budget is upto $150 and this lens costs about $140. Any
	of you had any experience using this lens? How is the optical
	quality of this lens? I know that it won't be like USM's but
	is it comparable to EF 50mm/1.8. I have this lens and I found
	its quality very good. Please let me know about the above
	lens.

					Thanks

							Pankaj Bishnoi


Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: bgbauer@watcgl.uwaterloo.ca (ben bauer)
Subject: Re: Black's film - close to Fuji?
Organization: University of Waterloo
Distribution: can
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 14:12:32 GMT

In article <BuJ1EA.EIt@watserv1.uwaterloo.ca> imprint@watserv1.uwaterloo.ca (IMPRINT -- UW's Student Newspaper) writes:
>Who makes colour film for Black's Camera. I heard it was fuji, but
>was wondering whether it is the same thing under a different name.
>The reason I ask is that I recently had to shoot a bunch of it and was
>pleasantly surprised at the results. ie I shot activities on a misty
>overcast morning and got back crisp, bright, and relatively intense
>colours.
>Comments, anyone?
>
>- Dave T.

Fuji has discontinued private label packaging in Canada ( else-where I don't know)
so at this point Black's is using AGFA film 
                 Japan Camera     Konica film.
The other places who used to get private label Fuji film, Astral, 
Image, Zehr's and others will also have changed to new stock from 
a different packager.  I find that AGFA renders some of the deepest blue I've seen,
however, it is important to remember that for casual photographers
often WHERE the film is developed is a bigger factor than the film itself
in determining the quality of the print.
Also, the choice of paper surface will make a difference in the "snap" of
a print.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Info on Better wide angle
From: paulf@tiamat.hacks.arizona.edu (Paul Frankenstein, Bs.D.)
Date: 11 SEP 92 09:28:17    
Reply-To: paulf@tiamat.hacks.arizona.edu
Distribution: world,local
Organization: x=x^2+C
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.4-a4  

In article <vemuri.716151305@godzilla>, vemuri@informix.com (Sudhakar Vemuri) writes...
>Dear friends,
> 
>I am very new to photography. I love to take nature photos which I understand
>need wider angle lenses.
> 
>I want to buy a SLR camera with Autofocus option. I would like to try Canon 
>EOS rebel or its minolta counterpart.

The general consensus on the net seems to be that the bottom-end AF SLRs
(Canon Rebel, Nikon 4004/f401, Minolta 3xi, etc) arn't much more than 
point-and-shoot cameras with interchangeable lenses. If you really want
AF, go with the next higher level (Nikon 6006/f601, Canon Elan, Minolta 5xi).

>Here are some of my basic questions :
> 
>1. Since I need to take more nature photos, Should I buy a 28mm-50mm camera 
>with additional lenses to add for higher zooms.

Personally, I'd go with three prime (fixed) lenses: a 24 or 28mm, a 50mm, and
a 105 or 135mm. 

Advantages: You'll have faster lenses (meaning you can use slower and
more fine-grained film) and better picture quality. 

Disadvantages: Changing lenses all the time can be a pain in the b*tt, and
the more you change your lenses, the better chance you'll scratch/damage 
them.

>2. If I buy 35-50mm or 35-80mm zoom, can I add 28mm-*mm lenses to it ?

Yes.

>3. How often does one needs to use zooms higher than 80mm ? 

Depends. Personally, I use my 135mm about 50-60% of the time, with my 28mm
getting most of the rest of the work.

There are others who shoot almost exclusivly with 28mm or shorter lenses.

>4. Any good camera shops in Bay area with good deals .

Don't know, but I have heard good things about San Jose Camera.

>Thanks
> 
>Sudhakar Vemuri
-----
paulf@hacks.arizona.edu
paulf%hacks.decnet@telcom.arizona.edu
To sit in solitude, to think in solitude with only the music of the stream and
the cedar to break the flow of silence, here lies the value of wilderness.
						-- John Muir
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: steveh@pilot.dmg.ml.com (Steve Hannoford)
Subject: Re:  red slides
Organization: Merrill Lynch Debt Markets Group
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 16:47:53 GMT

I have had trouble with color rendition, specifically a
heavy red overtone, like turning the 'color' on a TV set
to maximum red.

I have had this problem under several conditions:

  1)  Using outdated film.
  2)  Developing film 6 months after exposing
       ( I think the film was good when shot, but
           expired when processed)
  3)  Using film that was sitting in the sun (still in box)
        The film got very hot.

My results aren't consistant.  I have also had good results
  under the above condition.

I think at the least, you should take all/some examples
  of the red slides to the processing lab.  Unfortunately,
  the best they will do is replace the film with unexposed
  film, and maybe refund the processing fee.  

Good Luck...

     
-- 

+-------------------------+--------------------------------------+
| steveh@pilot.dmg.ml.com | My employer has no opinions and has  |
| Steveh Hannaford        |  nothing to do with anything I say.  |
From: robert@sys.sweden.dg.com (Robert Claeson)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: t-Max Films
Date: 8 Sep 92 16:43:43 GMT
Organization: Data General AB, Akalla, Sweden

In article <1992Sep8.053812.18068@citec.oz.au>, sgccpgs@citec.oz.au (Paul Salanitri) writes:

> Also, what is the best developer to use to get the FINEST grain possible on 
> TMAX-100,  I don't mind exposing at 25 even if I have to.

I use T-Max 100 at EI 64 and process it in Agfa Rodinal 1+50. I can't
remember the times right now, but the results are impressive. This
combination doesn't give the finest possible grain, but the result is
brilliant and looks very sharp.

-- 
------------------------------ END OF MESSAGE ------------------------------
Robert Claeson                Internet: robert@sys.sweden.dg.com
Data General AB                         robert@sys.dg.se
Box 28                             CEO: robert@sys.sweden.dg.com:dg-smtp
S-164 93 KISTA                     Tel: +46 (0)8-92 55 00
Sweden                             Fax: +46 (0)8-751 36 22
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: keivjam@elof.iit.edu (James Keivom)
Subject: PLEASE...HELP ON BUYING MY FIRST SLR CAMERA
Organization: Illinois Institute of Technology, Chicago
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 92 06:35:48 GMT

thanks

jim
From: cicero@hotcity.COM (Andreas Locicero)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: B&W Slide film
Date: 7 Sep 92 04:07:46 PST
Organization: BBS

In article <laks4sINNkcm@almaak.usc.edu>, ajayshah@almaak.usc.edu (Ajay Shah)
writes:
>Many years ago, I did a lot of B&W prints using my first camera 
>(a K1000).
>
>Now, after having had a lot of fun with a Nikon 6006 shooting (color)
>slides, I'd like to try my hand at B&W slides.  What would you suggest
>for film?  How is it processed?  Would Kodalux-as-usual work?
>
>What words of wisdom would you like to contribute on shooting B&W
>slides for the first time after having done lots of color slides?
>
>Thanks,
>
>        -ans.
>-- 
>Ajay Shah, (213)749-8133, ajayshah@usc.edu
As far as I know, no one makes a black and white slide film anymore.  You must
shoot a negative film and process it specially for reversal to get black and
white slides.  This means doing the processing yourself or trying to find a pro
lab willing to do it for you.

I saw a reference in this newsgroup to processing Tmax for reversal, I an I
have some experience with processing Panatomic X this way years ago. Kodak
makes kits for such things Look in better camera stores.

A.J. LoCicero >> cicero@hotcity.com

This message comes to you from beautiful Morgan Hill, California, U.S.A.:
The front line in the war against Suburbanization!
From: victor@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (V Menayang)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: portrait lenses: 35mm-Format.
Date: 5 Sep 92 19:50:51 GMT
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin

In article <12430070@hpmwnpd2.sr.hp.com> allana@hpmwtd.sr.hp.com (Allan Armstrong) writes:
>Everyone seems to be talking about portraits with f2.8 or so. I thought
>that portrait photographers bought those expensive 85mm f1.2s and f1.4s
>in order to get shallow depth of field. Is f2.8 really adequate?
>
>Allan

I think another reason for using f2.8 or f5.6 on a 1.2 lens
is to use the lens at its best optical quality (1/2 stop down
from the max aperture).


-victor

-- 

-------------------------------------------------------------
Victor Menayang                     victor@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu 
=============================================================
From: gg00@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (GULDEM GUVEN)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Help-stucking Nikkor
Date: 5 Sep 92 08:25:32 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

Hello world,
I bought a hardly used 35-70 AF Nikkor, it focuses great but when zooming
between 35 and 50mm, it stucks, I mean, it gets hard to turn the zoom ring,
and its hardness changes time to time. I was told that he didn't used for a
long time. Since I'm far away from hardware of photo. and having an idea of
"netters advice generally more reliable and fair than local store's", I didn't
take my lens to any store. So every advice wellcome. Many thanks.
p.s. Sorry, this was my best english at 4:20 am.
                                                  Cengiz (Bethlehem,PA)
"Allrights are not reserved,
feel free to copy,print,fax, etc. this article."
From: gg10@prism.gatech.EDU (GALLOWAY)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Mail ordering film, paper and chemicals -- Safe?
Date: 14 Sep 92 22:39:45 GMT
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology

How safe and reliable is it to mail order film, paper and processing chemicals?

Thanks
Greg Galloway
gg10@prism.gatech.edu
Organization: Central Michigan University
Date: Friday, 11 Sep 1992 18:07:39 EDT
From: John Meixner <3IU6YVN@CMUVM.CSV.CMICH.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: MF cameras and candid shots
Distribution: rec
 <1992Sep11.170518.15046@pony.Ingres.COM>

Waist-level finders are less obtrusive in candid photography IF you can get
the shot quickly.  Often speed is of the essence, and an AF from eye-level
will be less intimidating to a subject simply because the shot was made
so quickly that the subject never knew it was made at all.

John Meixner
%
Newsgroups: rec.photo,isu.market
From: bipin@iastate.edu (Bipin K Dalmia)
Subject: FREE: yashica electro 35 camera (no catch!)
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames, IA
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 02:54:34 GMT

i have an old yashica 'electro 35' camera that had a little problem with
the shutter release, it used to fire only about 75% of the time and the
rest of the time the shutter wouldn't open. i figured it needed some
lubricating and tried to open the camera myself since no camera shop
would touch such an old model. so basically i screwed-up okay!! i put it
all back together, except the shutter release. 

the camera is in very decent shape except the shutter problem. so if
anyone wants it to play with, i'm willing to give it away for free.
you'll have to pay any shipping, unless local of course. 

send me e-mail if you need details about the camera.

bip
-- 
bipin k. dalmia               the other night i was lying on my bed, looking
bipin@iastate.edu             up at the beautiful stars, and i said to myself, 
n2.bkd@isumvs.iastate.edu     'where the F*CK is my ROOF !!'
--
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: robert@sys.sweden.dg.com (Robert Claeson)
Subject: Re: Vivitar 636AF vs. Canon 430EZ
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 1992 08:42:52 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Data General AB, Akalla, Sweden

In article <1992Sep2.205045.16255@clark.edu>, gsnow@clark.edu (Gary Snow) writes:
> In article <Btx63J.8xt@nntp-sc.Intel.COM> svaradar@sangeet.intel.com () writes:

> >Also, has anybody out there had any good/bad experiences with the
> >Canon 75-300 EF lens  ?
> 
> I have it, and although its not a really sharp lens, its definately
> worth the price.

If more sharpness is needed, I think that the extra money for the
Canon EF 100-300/4.5-5.6 USM lens is well worth it.

-- 
------------------------------ END OF MESSAGE ------------------------------
Robert Claeson                Internet: robert@sys.sweden.dg.com
Data General AB                         robert@sys.dg.se
Box 28                             CEO: robert@sys.sweden.dg.com:dg-smtp
S-164 93 KISTA                     Tel: +46 (0)8-92 55 00
Sweden                             Fax: +46 (0)8-751 36 22
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: drw41888@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Dave Wiltz)
Subject: Re: NEED INFORMATION ON A CAMERA!!!
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 18:42:59 GMT

fred-mckenzie@ksc.nasa.gov (Fred McKenzie) writes:

>In article <1992Sep15.053020.20422@iitmax.iit.edu>, keivjam@elof.iit.edu
>(James Keivom) wrote:
>> Could anyone inform me about the Pentax ME-Super w/ 50 mm F 1.7 lens?
>> A guy on the net is selling it to me.  I am a beginner, this is my
>> first SLR camera.  Would you recommend it for an absolute beginner
>> or can i find a better camea.  would you know whats good about it/
>> what its weakpoints are(ie no interchangeable lenses).  is it worth
>> getting. i.e. does it allow room for expansion..

>jim-

>Yes!  The Pentax ME-Super is a good camera.  The Pentax 50mm f/1.7 is a
>good lens.  This makes a good first camera for someone who is serious about
>photography.

>The only drawback might be lack of auto-focus, when compared to the more
>modern cameras.  I'm not sure about the ME-Super, can you operate it in
>full manual mode, or are you stuck with auto exposure only?  If I'm not
>mistaken, there are a couple of buttons on the top to select manual shutter
>speed.

I do believe that you are correct.  The ME-Super does give full
auto.  The ME doesn't. 
-Dave


-- 
David Wiltz                                 wiltz@after.math.uiuc.edu
Calculus&Mathematica Development Team
University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign  NeXT Mail always welcome!
-Doing business with the government is a lot like playing poker with God-
Organization: University of Maine System
Date: Wednesday, 9 Sep 1992 21:35:42 EDT
From: <IO92112@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Tamron 28-200 f/3.5-5.6 AF for EOS?

I just noticed in a ad that Tamron has introduced a compact zoom, 28-200mm
f/3.5-5.6, for autofocus SLR, including EOS. As you netters may be know
that there has been no lenses fit to Canon EOS camera from Tamron except
two converters. The zoom looks pretty attractive. Can anybody provide some
more information? Just curious!

Garry
Newsgroups: rec.photo,rec.backcountry
From: hasker@m.cs.uiuc.edu (Rob Hasker)
Subject: Re: What tripod do you use when backpacking?
Organization: University of Illinois, Dept. of Comp. Sci., Urbana, IL
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 18:19:01 GMT

halvers@procyon.crd.ge.com (Pete Halverson) writes:

>Plus a monopod makes a great collapsible hiking staff, especially if you
>wrap it with some grip tape at the appropriate height!

During vacation last summer, I stupidly sprained my ankle.  About the only
way I could hike up a particular mountain was to use my Bogen monopod as
a crutch.  It wasn't ideal, but it worked better than any of the rotted
branches I saw laying around.  This shows that you really do sometimes need
a monopod to get a picture.  It also shows that a tripod can be vastly
inferior :-).

Rob
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: shao@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (shao-shen.kang)
Subject: NIKON FG FOR SALE!
Keywords: Nikon, FG
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: bl
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 16:05:47 GMT


Nikon Equipment for Sale
--------------------------

(1)     Nikon FG body,      $135   OBO

   - TTL flash capability, 
   - Auto exposure meter,
   - Program mode, 
   - Aperture priority mode with manual 
     compensation,
   - Batteries included.

   The camera is in mint condition, 
   no scratch, no dent,  excellent shots!

(2)    Optional item:

       Nikkor AF 50mm f1.8 lens     $50

These two items have been stored in a dry
box all the time.
If interested, please e-mail me at

        att!ihlpm!shao

Shao Kang
From: chuang@micro (Michael Chuang)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Nikon Photo School: is it good?
Date: 10 Sep 92 02:33:21 GMT

hchong@netcom.com (Hoi Chong) writes:
# Luis Abdon Cifuentes <lc0v+@andrew.cmu.edu>:
# > Hello netters, 
# > 
# >  I just received a brochure about the Nikon Photo School [...]
# >  I want to know if the thing is worth it before trying it.
# 
# If nothing else, all the snobbish F4s'ers (your truly included) can get
# togather and compare their cameras and say bad things about Canon.
# (of course, we can also thump our noses at the 8008s'ers and F3'ers...)
# 
# Feeling a bit cocky today...  

A great ironic post dripping with sarcasm !

This is an alternately amusing and irritating subject.  At the risk of
specious generalization, it seems that in every hobby or avocation 
involving "technology" (for lack of a better word) there are those who
seem to believe that ownership of a "prestige" or "professional" item
somehow makes them better (in whatever sense of the word you choose)
than those who do not possess such things.  The set of such persons
seems to have significant intersection with the set of those who feel
the need to denigrate equipment (and the owners of such equipment) that
they personally do not use.  In the sport of bicycling one finds owners
of titanium or carbon fiber-framed bikes with all the fanciest accessories
wobbling slowly but dangerously down the street.  In the motorized
arena we are treated to the spectacle of a sports car lurching down 
the street accompanied by the sound of grinding gears.  Of course the
photographic counterparts of these posers are in some ways good things -
with such persons a supply of mint used equipment is assured every time a
new model is introduced.  (Thank you Nikon for the "D" lenses !  There
are still a bunch of "obselete" AF Nikkors I'd like to have.)

Learning to see, and knowing how to use the equipment one has effectively,
is far more important than possessing an expensive gadget, in my not
so humble opinion.  It's refreshing and encouraging to see that there are
those who seem to feel the same way, even if they have been perhaps more 
civil in saying so than I have been in this note.  There's nothing wrong with
wanting to own nice things (even if one isn't up to using them to their
fullest potential) but the strutting and posturing that Hoi Chong refers
to in his note can be pretty irritating.  Personally I'd be embarassed to 
own a ton of ED glass unless I was producing better work than I am at 
present.  (Yes, yes, I know, it's probably because the bile is getting 
in the way of the creative juices :)  A person who produces great images
with a tatty Argus C3 gets much more respect from me than someone who
can't figure out half the controls on his two-thousand dollar Nikolta Fx-1i.

In the same crabby vein, do those who dislike the _Pop. Photo_ obsession
with the word "tyro" also get annoyed by the persistent appearance of
the word "persnickety ?"  

Mike
chuang@micro.ll.mit.edu
From: kar@cs.rit.edu (Kenneth A Reek)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: High speed useful ? (was Re: Nikon N90 technobabble)
Date: 8 Sep 92 17:44:35 GMT
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology, Rochester, NY

In article <=8qn+5b.hchong@netcom.com> hchong@netcom.com (Hoi Chong) writes:
>
> (deleted description of 1/8000 sec shutter curtain exposing only a portion
> of the frame at a time)
>
>Can anyone say what is the highest speed w/o the shutter doing the
>"portion-at-a-time" thing?  (specifically on F4s) 

	It is the fastest speed at which a (traditional) electronic flash
will sync, as the entire frame must be exposed by the shutter when the
flash fires.  I say "traditional" because from what I have read about the
N90, I am guessing that the new SB-25 has a mode in which its flash
duration is as long as it takes for the slit in the shutter curtain
to traverse the frame, thus achieving flash "sync" at 1/4000 sec.
-- 
Kenneth A. Reek				kar@cs.rit.edu
Rochester Institute of Technology	rutgers!rochester!rit!kar
Newsgroups: rec.photo