HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: ron@topaz.bds.com (Ron Natalie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: HELP: Looking for info on exotic hardwoods (mail order woes)
Date: 16 Dec 1992 22:38:21 GMT
Organization: BDS Systems
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: topaz.bds.com

Most "exotic" wood is sold ungraded.  I've been screwed by mail order, too.
It depends on who you order from.  The stuff I got from the woodworking
store was decent quality (no major blemishes), and rougly the sizes they
described.

I've had bad luck with Bob Morgan.  This guy seems to primarily be in the
veneer business.  The pieces I got from him not only had major defects in
the middle of the deleivered pieces, but the lengths were markedly shorter than
what they were passed off to be.  I'm used to buying wood that's thinner
(always) and narrower (usually) than the spec dimensions, but never shorter.

Fortunately, I've got a place that sells hardwoods at a decent price within
a short drive.  They treat you like a real person even if you just want to
browse through their stock for one good board.  I was buying 20 sheets of
hardwood veneer plywood and it was amazing the number of places listed as
hardwood suppliers that would't even speak to me.  These guys have the best
prices (better than mailorder) and are colocated (but is a separate operation)
with a mail order tool place, so I can look at other gadgets while I'm there.

The place is Craftswood and is located off Telegraph Road (I guess that's
Alexandria, but it's a bit south of the beltway).  The colocated tool operation
is called "The Source."

-Ron
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: alvin@bmerh327.bnr.ca (Alvin Yeung)
Subject: removing scratches on high-gloss finish
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Ottawa, Canada
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 92 02:11:14 GMT

What is the method, if one exists, for removing fine scratches 
on a high-gloss finish?  Are there buffing compounds 
available for this purpose?  Is buffing the way to remove them?

I can't tell what kind of a finish it is.  It is quite glossy and
looks like it was stained before the glossy finish was applied.
It could be lacquer, I don't know enough about wood finishing to say.

The scratches are not deep at all, however, because of the large area
affected, one big patch of the piece is dull and non-light-reflecting
while the rest of the piece has the original high-gloss shine.  I like
to restore the piece to its full glory without refinishing the whole 
piece.

The glossy finish is quite thick (looks thick anyway) and can take some
buffing down.  Is there an appropiate compound to use?
From: bednarek@picard.med.ge.com (Dennis Bednarek Mfg 4-6971)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Finishing walnut
Date: 15 Dec 92 07:30:26 GMT
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]

fulton@binah.cc.brandeis.edu wrote:
: I'm looking for opinions and wisdom on finishing a walnut veneer desk top. 
: I'm seeking a smooth, impervious, long-lasting finish.  So far I put on
: Watco oil, but the grain is complex and open in some places so will need
: to be filled to give good depth.  Someone suggested after the oil dries I
: finish with a semi-gloss urethane.  Is this a good idea?  If so, which one, 
: and how should I apply it?  Any other suggestions?  Thank you!

I got some very beautiful results on walnut using a cvombination
of miniwax special walnut stain and several coats of spray on
utethane.  The grain of the wood seemed to just pop out at you.
However if you already oiled the surface regardless of how long
wait for the oil to dry make sure that whatever you use works
with that oil.  I recked a great table by deciding to spray it
polyutethane varnish after applying danish oil several years back.

dennis

--
---------------------------
| UP TIGHT                 | 
| OUT OF SIGHT             |
| EVERY THING IS ALL RIGHT | 
___________________________

The usual disclaimer of self
 and employer applies to all
 above comments.
#
From: kassover@rumsey.crd.ge.com (David Kassover)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Piano Kits?
Keywords: piano
Date: 15 Dec 92 01:10:30 GMT
Organization: nope

In article <1992Dec14.183722.5106@afit.af.mil> fkilpatr@afit.af.mil (Freeman A. Kilpatrick) writes:
>Has anyone ever seen a hardware kit for a piano?  The woodworking part doesn't seem
>like it would be difficult for a simple upright model.  I have been looking at
>pianos lately and they are way expensive.  I don't know much about piano making, or
>if a kit is even feasible, but it should save a lot of money.
>
>Anyone know anything about this?
>

Well, the thingy that holds the strings has to be able to
withstand some 20 tons of force (in a properly tuned piano, that
is.  You can save a ton or two by mistuning)

Now what you need is a piece of furniture that can support a
chunk of cast iron that will withstand 20 tons of force.

Not to mention a soundboard, which are usually fairly substantial
panels of Sitka Spruce.  (Story and Clark made a specialty of a
laminated soundboard, but I seriously doubt that it is the same
stuff as your garden variety furniture plywood)

After that, the case is some relatively straightforward
cabinetry.

Were you planning to build the keyboard and action, as well?

Perhaps you should start small, with a hammered dulcimer.

8-)



-- 
David Kassover             "Proper technique helps protect you against
uupsi!khazad!kassover	          sharp weapons and dull judges."
kassover@aule-tek.com                   F. Collins
kassover@ra.crd.ge.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: leo@cpd.Tandem.COM (Leo Hejza)
Subject: Re: dowels vs dados vs t&g
Organization: Tandem Computers Inc., Cupertino CA
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 18:20:11 GMT

In article <1992Dec14.193709.5664@informix.com>, davek@informix.com (David Kosenko) writes:
>Jeff Roberts writes:
>
>For building rail and panel doors and cabinet face frames, biscuits are
>useless (I have a biscuit cutter btw) because, at least for mine, the frames
>are too narrow for even a #0 biscuit.

Highland Hardware makes a smaller replacement blade which fits most biscuit
joiners. With it and a sub #0 size biscuit they carry it's possible to
join frame members as narrow as 1 1/2" with the biscuit entirely hidden.

Leo.

-- 
Life would be so much simpler if I could just look at the source code.
From: spangler@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Bill Spangler)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Brio Toy Parts
Date: 17 Dec 92 18:35:25 GMT
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server


Well, I just found out that Brio U.S. (BRIO Scanditoy Corp.) does NOT
offer a "Spare Parts" product anymore, contrary to my earlier speculation.
I called them (800-558-6863) trying to find the product number, and was
told that they don't sell spare parts because they can't guarantee that
they wouldn't be a hazard to a child.

At a local toy store last night, I noticed that at least some current Brio
train toys now have solid axles, instead of a tack per wheel.  (Also, the
newer wheels have a raised lip around the head of the axle, which the old
ones did not have.)  There might have been a general product redesign that
makes it impossible to replace a wheel anyway, so there may not be a spare
parts kit offered anywhere.

If anyone would like to see if a "Spare Parts" kit still exists anywhere
these days, here are the other phone numbers listed on the Brio catalogs:

    Sweden:   0479 - 190 00   (also for "other countries": int.+46 479 19000)
    Denmark:  42 31 48 00     (in 2 catalogs; another shows 47 31 48 00)
    Norway:   (033) 327 00
    Finland:  (921) 78 28 00
    Germany:  091 22/70 51
    England:  (0509) 23 18 24 (in 2 catalogs; another shows (0509) 23 18 74)
    Canada:   (416) 629-3407  }
              (416) 629-2740  } all 3 catalogs showed a different number!
              (519) 680-3080  }


Bill Spangler
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ameres@ithaca.cat.rpi.edu (Eric Ameres)
Subject: working w/plywood
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy NY
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 18:28:44 GMT

rec.ww'er's,

A couple of questions on working with hardwood veneer plywood
(hereafter plywood).

1. Without a tablesaw, what is the best way to get a straight edge on
a piece of plywood?  Would one ever think of putting it through a
jointer?  That sounds like a real bad idea (glue, etc...).  I'm
currently using a circular saw and a tool guide which is ok but not
ideal.  Is it a good idea to dress it up after with a router?  I'm
leaning towards cutting it to manageable sizes with the circural saw
and then fine cutting it using my radial arm saw.  Thoughts??? (No, I
absolutely cannot afford to get a table saw right now!!!)

2. Sanding.  Since there is such a thin veneer on plywood what are the
caveats and techniques for sanding the faces prior to finishing?  (For
reference, we're talking oak and I have a PC 6" EVS random orbit sander
as well as hand sanding as options)

Thanks as always,

-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Eric Ameres,  Software Engineer                 ameres@cat.rpi.edu
New York State Center for Advanced Technology in Automation & Robotics
Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute - CII 8313, Troy, NY 12180-3590
From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 22:37:06 GMT
Subject: Baldor Motor Needs help to start.  Why?
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

I have a queston that is not exactly woodworking, but then again maybe it is.

I found a Baldor 1/2 HP induction motor at a garage sale last weekend and 
bought it for $10.00.  I got it cheap because the shaft appeared to have 
seized up; it wouldn't turn.   The guy said I could bring it back if it 
didn't run when powered up.

So, I took the casing off, and it turns out the shaft is straight and the
bearings are fine, but the damn thing got dropped and the end cover was bent,
throwing the armature out of alignment.   I tapped it back into place with
a ball-peen hammer and then wired it up and plugged it in.

The motor made a loud humming noise and turned slowly in on direction (about
10 rpm).   So, I grabbed the shaft and gave it a twist, and viola! it started
up and ran real smooth and strong.

My question:  Should I invest in a new capacitor to see if it will start
up properly, or is the shaft still misalgned, and the whole thing worthless?

Whaddya think?

If it works, I would like to attach it to an arbor and use it for a grinding
wheel for planer and jointer blades.  It just seems inconvenient to have to
hand crank it to get it to start.
From: bellas@soldev.TTI.COM (Pete Bellas)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Low Cost Bandsaw
Date: 14 Dec 92 15:54:59 GMT
Reply-To: bellas@soldev.TTI.COM (Pete Bellas)
Organization: Transaction Technology, Inc.

In article <1992Dec11.074751.451@netcom.com>, micki@netcom.com (Michelle
Stone) writes:
> bellas@soldev.TTI.COM (Pete Bellas) writes:
> 
> >I am considering a bandsaw but have a very limited budjet right now. 

> I saw a Delta 8" band saw to today at Home Depot for around $350.
> You probably want a 14" inch one though to cut up that fruitwood
> though.... Am I right?

I was looking at 14" models since resawing boards is something I would
like to be able to do, but right now I am mostly interested in small work
so an 8 or 10 inch might do nicely. Have to think some more.

			-Pete-


* Pete Bellas                   "Cogito ergo spud"                         *
* Citicorp/TTI                       I think therefore I yam.              *
* Santa Monica, CA                                                         *
* bellas@gamma.tti.com                                                     *
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jp@hpuerca.atl.hp.com (John Pierce)
Subject: Re: Piano kits & CD scratches
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 12:16:53 GMT
Organization: the Atlanta Technology Center
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1.3 PL5

Michael C Merrifield (merrifie@cidmac.ecn.purdue.edu) wrote:
> In article <1992Dec16.180108.3325@afit.af.mil>, fkilpatr@afit.af.mil (Freeman A. Kilpatrick) writes:
> > asket@acad2.alaska.edu writes:
> > 
> > ...  You will be glad to know that I have decided to make
> > a wooden tuba instead. :)
> 
> Hasn't Norm made one of these on NYW!  I think he turned
> it out a solid piece of poplar.
> 
Shucks!  I thought it was CDX plywood!

I have thought about a (non-functional) trumpet as a present for my son,
who's taking trumpet lessons.  Something to put atop his bookcase.  But
my wife says more bookcases come first.  She wants someplace for my wood-
working books.

Does anyone have experience with making wooden instrument replicas?


---
	#################ANY#OPINONS#HERE#ARE#MY#OWN####################
				John Pierce
			 Atlanta Technology Center
			  jdp@itpg004.atl.hp.com
			      (404) 850-2492
From: fulton@binah.cc.brandeis.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Finishing walnut
Date: 13 Dec 92 20:38:13 GMT
Reply-To: fulton@binah.cc.brandeis.edu
Organization: Brandeis University

I'm looking for opinions and wisdom on finishing a walnut veneer desk top. 
I'm seeking a smooth, impervious, long-lasting finish.  So far I put on
Watco oil, but the grain is complex and open in some places so will need
to be filled to give good depth.  Someone suggested after the oil dries I
finish with a semi-gloss urethane.  Is this a good idea?  If so, which one, 
and how should I apply it?  Any other suggestions?  Thank you!
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Opinions on various Table Saws
Date: 15 Dec 92 06:04:28 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <18045@bcars664.bnr.ca> rossane@bcarhc0.NoSubdomain.NoDomain (Steve Rossanese) writes:

You should get your WGA to fix your posting software.  "NoSubdomain.NoDomain"
means your posting software is misconfigured.  Nn or tin I think.

>     This is my first post to this news group so if this question
>has been asked to death .. please be kind.

Your mother wears army boots!

Now, that wasn't so bad was it? ;-)

>     I would like to purchase a decent table saw and not have
>to get a second mortgage on my house. I know that the DELTA
>UNISAW is the saw of choice, but up here in Ottawa that saw is
>a rather large $2000. Although I don't want price to be the only
>factor in my decision, it will come into play.

>     What other saws (manufactures and model numbers) are there
>around that are 'good and accurate'. So far from reading the
>posts over the past few months, I should not be considering any
>Sears stuff (right?), but what about others ... General, Rhobi etc.

There are quite a few.  To name those of North American manufacture,
the Generals (made in Canada) are very good, and so are the Powermatic
Artisans.  They have saws in the $1000-1600CDN range that compare
very favourably with the Unisaw or other higher-end Deltas.

As far as Delta goes, there's also the Contractor's or cabinet saws.
The former for about $800-900CDN, the latter for $1300CDN or so.

A *lot* of people have Contractors saws.

You should go visit Busy Bee (Innes & St. Laurent) and Legere
(on Morrison near Pinecrest/Greenbank & the 417 - almost next
door to Lee Valley ;-)  Legere has a good selection of Deltas.
Busy Bee appears to have some high end and good quality imports,
tho, I've not personally tried one and haven't heard any reviews
on them.

There's a couple of used machinery places around.  You might
try visiting some of them too.

Some people like their Ryobis, but they are rather pricy compared
to some other full sized units with more beef.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
From: sgarcia@cisco.com (Steven Garcia)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: WoodSmith dovetail jig
Date: 17 Dec 1992 02:31:17 GMT
Organization: cisco Systems, Incorporated
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: lager.cisco.com

In article <1992Dec16.204430.7453@b11.b11.ingr.com>, jazz@jazz.b11.ingr.com (Jeff Roberts) writes:
|> I'm considering ordering issue #58 of WoodSmith and building their
|> dovetail jig, mostly because people here said they liked it and it's
|> a cheap way to go.  But first I'm trying to add up the cost.  I called
|> WoodSmith and asked about the cost of the hardware kit ($34.95) but
|> the lady I spoke with couldn't tell me if I would also need to buy a
|> bushing for my router.
|> 
|> Could some kind soul with issue #58 tell me if I need a bushing to go
|> with my 1/2" dovetail and what size they specify if so?

Jeff,
As requested, per Woodsmith #58:
You will need to get your own 7/8" outside diameter guide bushing to fit
your router.  Start with a dealer who carries accessories for your router.
If no luck, a universal bushing set is available from: Woodcraft Supply Corp,
800-225-1153, "Router Guide Bushing Set", with universal base plate, Order
No. 11V12. (Note that above info is from a 4 year old Woodsmith.)

More Woodsmith kit price info:
kit #58E	Dovetail Jig Parts Kit			$34.95
		(All hardware needed including template)
kit #58F	Dovetail Jig Parts and Wood Kit		$54.95
		(kit 58E plus all the wood (hard maple) needed
kit #58G	Dovetail Template			$24.95
		(Just the plastic "comb" template)
kit #58H	1/2" (1/4" shank) carbide dovetail bit	$15.75

Looks like you could do the whole thing for less than $75.00.
That's a far cry less than the cost of Porter Cable's or Leigh's jig.

Note that it will only cut half-blind dovetails.

If you build it, please let me know how it turns out (building problems,
use, etc.).

If anyone has built and used one, please let me know what you think.
It would be perfect if someone has USED both the Woodsmith jig and
either the Porter-Cable Omni-jig or the Leigh and could compare results.


Steve Garcia
     (415) 688-7642)
     <sgarcia@cisco.com>

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: iainw@bnr.ca (Iain Woolf)
Subject: Re: removing scratches on high-gloss finish
Organization: BNR Europe Ltd, Maidenhead, UK
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 15:25:02 GMT

In article <1992Dec16.021114.17135@bmerh85.bnr.ca>
alvin@bmerh327.bnr.ca (Alvin Yeung) writes:
>What is the method, if one exists, for removing fine scratches 
>on a high-gloss finish?  Are there buffing compounds 
>available for this purpose?  Is buffing the way to remove them?
>
>I can't tell what kind of a finish it is.  It is quite glossy and
>looks like it was stained before the glossy finish was applied.
>It could be lacquer, I don't know enough about wood finishing to say.
>
>The scratches are not deep at all, however, because of the large area
>affected, one big patch of the piece is dull and non-light-reflecting
>while the rest of the piece has the original high-gloss shine.  I like
>to restore the piece to its full glory without refinishing the whole 
>piece.
>
>The glossy finish is quite thick (looks thick anyway) and can take some
>buffing down.  Is there an appropiate compound to use?

I'm not a woodworker, but will be building an old car at some point
and have therefore have looked into high gloss finishes for the
dashboard. A trick seen on an amazing boat, all finished in glassy,
glossy varnish was that polyureathane was used, lots of coat, and when
*completely* dry, the top coat was rubbed down with something like 800
grit wet&dry used wet (could even have been 1200). Finally "T-Cut"(*)
was used to bring the dull finish that remained up to a smooth glossy
shine.

(*) "T-Cut" is a cutting compound used for rubbing back the top coat
of paint on cars. Very fine abrasive - don't use it too often (blue
cars have been known to come up a nice shiny silver as the bare metal
was reached!)

The trad. method is (I think) to use layer upon layer of shellac, with
copius sanding between layers. Also, depending on how your particular
piece was originally finished would influence how you go about
repairing it.

What I'm trying to say is that if its just a few surface scratches
(not too deep) then T-Cut might work. (Get a second opinion though,
and try it on a bit that won't show up first)

       Iain.

-- 

 Iain Woolf,                      | My opinions are just that - MINE!
 BNR Europe Ltd, Maidenhead, UK   |
 (0628) 794537 ||  esn 590-4537   | iainw@bnr.ca
From: chiester@ccat.sas.upenn.edu (Chris Hiester)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: old butcher block sanitize/refinish?
Date: 12 Dec 92 00:09:53 GMT
Followup-To: rec.woodworking
Organization: University of Pennsylvania

I just bought a butcher block from a restaurant that went bankrupt.  The
thing is dirty and I need some information on sanitizing it.  I have
already cleaned it with Murphy's Oil Soap.  I don't plan on ever cutting
anything directly on the wood, but I would still like to get it clean so
that I can use it the way I use any other counter top.  I am considering
sanding it and refinishing it.  Any ideas, advice, etc.??


Chris Hiester
Humanities Computing/CCAT
University of Pennsylvania

chiester@charity.sas.upenn.edu
From: ringo@icad.com (Amy Gorin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Auto-scrolling or no auto-scrolling
Date: 14 Dec 92 18:08:41 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: ICAD Inc., Cambridge, MA


Looking for opinions:

I'm shopping for a jig-saw.  I know I want variable speed, and of
course a tiltable shoe, but I'm not sure about auto scrolling.  I'll
mostly be making simple bookshelves and other straight cuts, but it
would be nice to be able to do some curve work if I want to.  Is 
auto-scrolling really necessary?  Does it create any problems (ie 
sloppy straight cuts?).

I'll probably get one of the stanley line, since the skil saw has a
fairly uncomfortable grip for me.  If anyone knows of any other
reasonably priced brands with grips for smaller-than-average hands,
let me know (the stanley "basic" is the only really comfortable grip,
but it doesn't have the bells and whistles I'm looking for).

Thanks,
-ringo
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: microwave wood? 
From: jander@husc8.harvard.edu (Georg Jander)
Date: 18 Dec 92 15:16:42 EST
Distribution: world
Organization: Harvard University Science Center

I heard that one can speed up the drying process of small pieces
of green wood (e.g. something turned on a lathe) by putting them
in the microwave.  I tried this with a chunk of maple wood and the
microwave on "defrost".  A short time later, I had a lot of smoke and
a piece of charred wood.  Does anyone have any better suggestions
for me? 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: rdc@world.std.com (Ralph D Clifford)
Subject: Re: CMT VS. FREUD Router Bits
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 23:12:36 GMT

In article <92350.131718EMDJJ@CUNYVM.BITNET> <EMDJJ@CUNYVM.BITNET> writes:
>Does anybody happen to know anything about these CMT router bits ?  Are they
>any good? And how do they compare to Freud Bits?
>Thanks in advance.
>Daniel Schlissel

     I have used both with equal results.  I now buy by price.

Ralph Clifford
rdc@world.std.com (Internet)


-- 
Ralph Clifford
rdc@world.std.com (Internet)

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking