HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: spatton@lamar.ColoState.EDU (Samuel Patton)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Exhaust Moisture
Date: 21 Dec 92 00:58:07 GMT
Organization: Colorado State University, Fort Collins, CO  80523

I have a 78 Trans Am with a pontiac 400 and Borg Warner T-10 four speed
installed.

Lately I have noticed that on the drivers side exhaust ( its dual exhaust )
alot of water vapor comes out of the tailpipe while noe is coming out of
the exhaust from the other head...

What could be causing this??? Is my head gasket going bad and leaking coolant
into the combustion chamber?

I have noticed that the operating temp. has been running higher than normal
and went and bought a thermostat today but didn't yet put it in.
( normal op. temp. =180F, running at about 210-220F after driving for a while
  which really concerns me... )

Any and all help will be appreciated...

My plans for tomorrow are to install the new thermostat and then make sure
that the coolant is full to the proper amount.  If it then starts to do this
fade toward a higher temp. as I drive it for a while... What does that indicate?

God, I really don't want to replace a head gasket!

Sam


------------------------------------------------------------------------------
|   Sam Patton -=> spatton@lamar.colostate.edu                               |
|   1978 Pontiac Trans Am - 400 / 4-speed       | Cross Country Tour 1992/93 |
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Car names
Date: 14 Dec 92 13:11:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Ye Olde Bailey BBS - Houston, TX - 713-520-1569
Reply-To: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 


  >>>Subject: Car names
  >>>Date: 11 Dec 92 20:14:19 GMT

JD>>>  One of my kid, at college, has started a project dealing
  >>>  with car names. He is trying to get as many names of cars
  >>>  as possible and then build some statistics arroud that
  >>>  data base. I remember seeing such a list many years ago
  >>>  but I can not remember where.

JD>>>  If any one out there has a list or know where we can obtain
  >>>  one we would greatly appreciate.

JD>>>  We will post our findings if we get enough material.

JD>>>  Thanks.

JD>>>  Jacques Deslauriers
  >>>  HNSX Supercomputers
..
Sure, just check with your local auto parts store and nag 'em for the
latesta copy of there oil filter catalog. It should carry all the names!
Our Purolator catalog here does!
                                                        Don


 * SLMR 2.1a * I put spot remover on my dog....Spots gone!
     
----
Ye Olde Bailey BBS
Houston,Texas
Node 1: 1 713 520 1569
yob.sccsi.com
From: tgl@slee01.srl.ford.com (Tom Leone)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Extending engine life--Block heaters (was Re: Oil Priming System)
Date: 15 Dec 1992 16:34:56 GMT
Organization: Ford Motor Company Research Laboratory
NNTP-Posting-Host: slee02.srl.ford.com
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5

Dylan McNamee (dylan@cs.washington.edu) wrote:
: 
: The first simpler solution I can think of is to add an engine-block heater, 
: and to always use it when it's really cold.  Apparently most engine wear
: happens during cold starts, and the wear is worse the colder it gets.

My boss swears by these.  He has his hooked up to a timer on the
electrical outlet, so it only heats up the engine for two hours
before he leaves for work.  His calculations indicate that
during the winter, fuel economy savings alone more than pay for
the electricity.  Plus, he gets improved engine life, instant
heating and defrosting, easier starting, and fewer exhaust
emissions.

I'm convinced.  Now I need to install electricity in my garage!

Tom Leone <tgl@slee01.srl.ford.com>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: olsenc@stein.u.washington.edu (Clint Olsen)
Subject: Recommendations on Carb Rebuild?
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 02:04:47 GMT

Hello:

I just wanted to thank all those who helped me with my "check
engine" light on my Olds Cutlass Cierra.  Unfortunately, it ended
up costing me $220 because I didn't have the time or the equipment
to track the problem down.  He also replaced a motor mount and fixed
a couple of bad vacuum lines.

I turns out that the error code #53 is not what anyone mentioned.  In
fact, the Haynes manual says that it's an overcharge problem.  This
is also incorrect.  It turned out to be an error for the EGR system
and the fix was to replace the EGR solenoid.

The only problem now is that he mentioned that it was running crappy
when it was cold because the carb is about ready for a rebuild.  The
diagnostic checker said that the Computer is setting the dwell at 3 
degrees (I thought dwell is measured in impedance, eg. ohms?).  Anyway,
he said that means that it's running really lean because everything
is getting clogged up inside.  He also said that some choke dashpot
thingy on the left side of the carb is totally inoperable as well.

Olds sells the kits to fix the carbs and I also found a Haynes manual for
my car.  The mechanic said that it wouldn't be a good idea for me to rebuild
it because I didn't have the proper equipment.  He said that parts of the
carb are electronically controlled and adjusted.  My first reaction is 
"bologna", but perhaps some of you may know if this is a really nasty 
job.  Is the mechanic full of it, or should I take it in?

Cutlass Cierra 1984 V6 (2 bbl. carb) approx. 93,800 miles.

Thanks in advance.

-Clint
From: yuanj@ucbeh.san.uc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: FTP Site for r.a.t FAQs?
Date: 19 Dec 92 15:52:28 GMT
Organization: Univ. of Cincinnati

Is there a site that keeps the r.a.t FAQs (typical answers to questions like
"when to replace timing belt")?

If there is such a site, would it be posted monthly?

J.Y.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks)
Subject: Re: Civic drifts
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 14:07:19 GMT

In article <92349.165500QXF1@psuvm.psu.edu> <QXF1@psuvm.psu.edu> writes:
>Hi everyone, I have a problem with my 82 Civic.  It drifts slowly toword
>left if I release the steering wheel.  I went to a shop today and had them
>check up.  They said the alignment (what I thought the problem was) was
>good.  They also check the brakes.  All four wheels are good without
>dragging.  After swapping the two front tires, nothing changed.
>
>They couldn't figure out the reason. Me either.
>
>I need help. Thanks.
>
>Ching

Has the car ever been hit? This will do it. Did they check both the front
_and_ rear wheel alignment? If the brakes aren't dragging, good. Also,
check the suspension for worn bushings, ball joints, springs, etc.

I once had a weird pulling problem with my '81 Civic. I rotated the tires,
and immediately it started pulling. Couldn't see anything wrong with the
tires. Took it in to be aligned. The guy said the alignment was ok, and 
swore the car must have been hit. I knew it hadn't been. He jury-rigged the
alignment so it would steer straight.

The next time I rotated the tires, the problem immediately reappeared, only
in the opposite direction. I took it back in and they realigned it back to 
specs. 

I came to the conclusion in my case it was the tires. I replaced the tires
before needing another rotation, and had it aligned again. The problem was
gone for good. Must have had a belt shift inside one of them or something,
because it didn't appear till the tires were about half worn.
 
Ted Brooks
 ______________________________________________________________________
| Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are my own, and do not reflect    |
| those of my employer. Advice is free, but you get what you pay for.  |
|                               ________                               |
|                         _____|  1955  |_______                       |
|                        /      Chevrolet      /                       |
|                       /______  BelAir  _____/                        |
|                              |________|                              |
|______________________________________________________________________|
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: vetter@mtu.edu (STEVEN J. VETTER)
Subject: Re: Oil Priming System
Organization: Michigan Technological University
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 18:21:56 GMT

greg@saltydog.dpsi.com (Gregory R. Travis) writes:
>Although it may get oil into the passages sooner, none of the pre-lubers
>that I've seen will fully float the crankshaft and rods.  To do so would
>require an enormous amount of pressure; full floatation usually occurs
>only when the crank itself begins to turn and force oil between its journals
>and the bearing surfaces.
>
>The same will go for rocker arms, etc.  And, of course, you're not getting any
>benefit for the cylinder walls or cam lobes with a preoiler as these
>surfaces are splash-lubricated.
>
>Unless you get the surfaces to float fully prior to startup, there is ALWAYS
>going to be some metal-metal contact at startup no matter HOW good your
>preoiler.  Furthermore, if you drive often (like once a day), the amount
>of time from zero to full oil pressure without a preoiler will likely be
>very small.  There is almost always enough residual oil left around to almost
>fully lubricate the reciprocating parts.  It's only if the engine has been
>sitting for a week or so that parts become dry.
>
>I say:  Save your money.
>
>greg
>--
>Gregory Reed Travis				D  P  S  I
>Data Parallel Systems Incorporated   greg@dpsi.com (For MX mailers only!)
>Bloomington, IN			     greg@indiana.edu (For the others)


  If you prime the journal with oil and a little pressure, the moment you hit the
  starter the crank begins to turn giving you hydrodynamic lubrication.  Without 
  priming, the oil pump will not deliver the needed pressure and volume of oil
  until the car actually starts.  

  A priming system need not be expensive either.  It could simply consist of an
  accumulator, a solenoid switch and a fitting to plug in where the car`s oil 
  pressure gauge is hooked up (may not apply to all types of gauges).  When the
  car is running, the accumulator fills up with oil to a specific pressure, and 
  then the solenoid switch closes it off.  Next time you start the car, when you
  turn the key to the on position, the solenoid opens and lets pressurized oil
  into the bearing journals.  This system would be cheap, and although I admit
  it would not float the bearings, it would provide the oil and the motion of the
  crank will float itself when you begin to crank the engine.

  vetter@mtu.edu 


-- 
>
>
>
  Steve Vetter      __________________________________________________
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: capek@rtsg.mot.com (Tom Capek @708-632-6633)
Subject: High Performance Pontiac Magazine Collection
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Distribution: rec.autos,rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.antique
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 16:15:13 GMT

FOR SALE: High Performance Pontiac Magazines from first issue to present. 
	  All issues are there, but will be sold as set only.
	  Mint Condition. $250
	  email: capek@rtsg.mot.com
	  phone: 708-742-3722 (evenings)

-- 
+------- Tom M. Capek e-mail capek@rtsg.mot.com ------------ O      __ --+
| Will I ever tour the mansion and score 'Fifty Million!'?   |\_____||   |
| Probably only with the glass off and a cheating hand...    | |-----|   |
+---------------------------------------------------------- / \|     | --+
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: gerber@boulder.parcplace.com (Andrew Gerber)
Subject: Re: Sudden stalls in 83 Stanza...Freeway speed...Diagnosis apprecia
Organization: ParcPlace Boulder
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 18:02:08 GMT

In article <1992Dec12.145922.23776@hawk.cs.ukans.edu> stubbs@hawk.cs.ukans.edu (Jerry Stubbs) writes:
>
>I had an '81 Stanza with very similar symptoms: stalled on highway,
>tach sudden;y dropped to 0, even though the engine was in gear and
>still turning, would cool off and run a bit more, I could cool it
>faster by pouring solvent on the distributor.  It tourned out to be
>the matchbooked sized module inside the distributor: $160 from 
>the dealer. I think the car had 6x,000 miles on it. I think whatever
>your problem is, it is probably on the ignition.
>
>

Didn't see the original posting; same thing happned to my '83 stanza
but more like at 110,000 miles.  Would "lose steam" at highway
speeds, Thought it was the gas filter or gas pump, fuel pressure
tests indicated otherwise.  Ended up getting a rebuilt distribitor 
($200) rather than just the part, which my garage quoted at $250.

Andy
-- 
/-----------------------------------------------------------------/
/ Andy Gerber		     / gerber@boulder.parcplace.com       /
/ ParcPlace Boulder          / (303) 440 9991 x4212               /
/-----------------------------------------------------------------/ 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mike@ravel.udel.edu (Michael James Porter)
Subject: F-150 Clutch failure - a resolution!
Organization: University of Delaware
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 15:00:56 GMT

Quite some time ago, I posted the following note.  I received many 
responses, some supportive, some telling me I was probably out
of luck, and some telling me to write to Ford.  Well, due to a
class and general lazyness, I hadn't done anything.  I had completely
given up on the dealer as well.

Yesterday, I got a letter from the dealer that looked alot like
those free 'coupons' for $500 dollars off a car or whatever.

However, it was a real check for the full amount of the clutch job.
Pretty amazing.  On the off chance that this was a mistake, I have
no intentions of talking to dealer and finding out exactly why
they paid for it, but it does give me hope for the domestic
auto industry.  (On the other hand, the paint is now peeling off
the roof, so we'll see how that goes)

Ford and the dealer certainly could have saved themselves some
publicity had they communicated with me in the mean time.

Anyway, thought you might find this interesting.

Mike
/////
 >I recently had a clutch in a '88 Ford F-150 w/300ci inline 6 fail.  The failure
 >involved the hub area of the clutch plate.  What happened is the hub
 >containing the cushioning springs failed, releasing one of the springs
 >into the clutch (caused the clutch to lock up - made a nice little
 >whiring sound!).
 >
 >I think there are five springs. For each of the cutouts used to hold the
 >spring, some of the metal is punched out, and some was bent to form a
 >retaining tang for the spring. To ease the stress that occured when
 >bending the tang, the maker drilled small holes in the corners of the
 >tang. However, this didn't work too well.  Of the five cutouts, three
 >had stress cracks proceeding from the holes to the outside
 >edge of the plate. A fourth completely let go, releasing the spring into
 >the clutch.  The fifth appears to have no cracks.
 >
 >The truck has 52K miles.  Wear on the clutch is consistant with 52K -
 >ie: it had some wear, but certainly didn't need to be replaced.
 >
 >Has anyone else had problems similar to this?
 >
 >The dealer says they'venever seen it, but an F-150 with a 6cyl manual is not
  exactly a common
 >package. If this is not a design or manufacturing flaw, what could
 >have caused it?
 >
 >The dealer wasn't able to tell me what type of transmission
 >is in there.  There appears to be two choices - a mazda r5(?), and
 >'something' else.  I think I have the 'something' else.
 >
 >The Ford dealer's position is that this is a clutch, and clutchs fail.
 >Hence, no coverage under power train warranty or anything else.
 >Personally, I don't think the sevice manager even gave it any thought.
 >(Winner Ford of Newark De, in case anyone cares).
 >
 >Thanks,
 >
 >Mike Porter
From: mikeq@freddy.CNA.TEK.COM (Mike Quigley)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Post flood maintenance - seeking advice
Keywords: flood damage, preventive maintenance
Date: 18 Dec 92 19:46:14 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Redmond,  OR.

In article <1992Dec18.182139.5579@nynexst.com? gary@xserver.nynexst.com (Gary Matison) writes:
?During last week's sudden storm in the New York area, we unexpectedly
?encountered badly flooded roads and ended up driving for a few minutes
?through water that was roughly axle high.
?
?Are there any prescribed maintenance procedures to follow after this
?wonderful experience? 

    None. No different than driving through a heavy rainstorm.

A dealer suggested replacing all wheel bearings -
?is that reasonable at this point?
?
    I'll bet he did! And, while your at it, replace the wheels, axles, drivetrain
     and undercarriage, JUST to be $afe!

?Thanks in advance for any info or experiences you can share.

    Do nothing. Be thankful. It washed the salt off from under your car.


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz)
Subject: Re: Oil pressure question?
Organization: Naval Ocean Systems Center, San Diego
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 14:15:06 GMT

In article <1992Dec15.154701.1@bronco.fnal.gov> colombo@bronco.fnal.gov writes:
>In article <1992Dec15.203102.24544@ncar.ucar.edu>, cbh@windsurf.scd.ucar.edu (Cris Hannu) writes:

>> I've got a question about the relationship of oil pressure to volume.
>> I've got an '84 Bronco II w/ 2.8L.  I had the engine rebuilt (it has now
>> got about 10,000 miles on it), it was bored out and I had a new cam put in.
>> Anyway, the oil pressure is higher now (than originally) and it seems to
>> *increase* when the oil starts getting low.  Is this normal, or do I have a
>> flaky sending unit?  I would've thought it would *decrease*.
 
>Oil pressure is not related to the volume, unless you run out.  :-)

Well, not *exactly* true... only to a first approximation...  When volume is
reduced there is less oil available to dissipate the heat removed from the
power components ('bottom-end' - crank, rod bearings, etc...).  The oil present
*will* become hotter (since there's less of it, it will dissipate heat to the
atmosphere less effectively (that's *why* a sump holds so much, anyway...)) and
will 'thin-out' and pressure most assuredly will drop.  This effect only
becomes important under load... at idle there isn't much (comparatively) heat
to remove and dissipate from the power components.

Walt K.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dscott@ccu.umanitoba.ca (Doug Scott)
Subject: Re: Extending engine life--Block heater
Organization: University of Manitoba, Winnipeg, Canada
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1992 02:35:09 GMT

In <102245@netnews.upenn.edu> george@mech.seas.upenn.edu writes:


>:
>:>My boss swears by these.  He has his hooked up to a timer on the
>:>electrical outlet, so it only heats up the engine for two hours
>:>before he leaves for work.
>:I'm always afraid one of these will malfunction and set fire to the oil on 
>:my block.

>the ones i've seen are water heaters, that go in line in your
>cooling system ( into the car's heater line i suppose )  I dont
>think there is much danger of fire there.  If you were directly 
>heating the oil maybe there would be cause for concern...

I have seen those in the hose heaters and up here in **frosty**
Canada people recommend against them. Normal block heaters go in
those little round plugs that pop out to stop freezing coolant
from cracking your block, and they heat the coolant directly!!

I have never seen a heater that heats the oil except those for VW
air cooled motors ( no coolant ) which actually bolts on the  
bottom of the oil pan.

One more thing, do you think an electric element will create
enough heat to catch your oil on fire compared to your exhaust
manifold throws off??? I don't ( in my immeasurable engineering
opinion ) think so.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
From: murray_t@wizard.colorado.edu
Subject: RE: CJ-7 Engine/Transmission Swap?
Organization: UMS
Date: 18 DEC 92 13:03:46 MST

I know of two companies that specialize in engine/trans swaps.  They are
Advance Adapters and Novak Enterprises.  I believe both are in California,
pick up any 4X4 magazine and look for their ads in the back.  Either
company should be able to supply you with parts, advice, etc.

-Todd Murray
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: tabg2553@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Thomas A. Brunner)
Subject: Freewheeling Engines
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 23:59:05 GMT


The subject of free-spinning versus non-free-spinning engines seems
to show up quite often.  If I may, the general answer is check with
the service manual OR a knowledgeable mechanic OR the car company.
My suggestion would be if you have some money and some time, replace
the belt, making sure everything is timed properly and put back on
correctly, and try starting the car.

My own personal horror story occurred last January.  I was going to
lunch one day, accelerating from a stop light when there was a loud
rumbling underneath the car.  I was not accelerating hard, nor was
I turning 5000 RPM.  The engine died.  I though that I had run over
something and stalled the car.  After I had pushed the car out of
the intersection, I checked the accessories.  Some were turning, but
the ones that were driven by the cam were not. Hmm.  I thought it was
the timing chain.  Turns out there is a shear pin on each of the    
camshafts, and the one on the intake cam sheared.  Bent six valves
and put neat little dents in three of the pistons.

The engine was a high output Quad 4.  Yes, I drive hard, but I wasn't at
the time of destruction (although in retrospect the damage would have
been much more impressive if I had been).  So we conclude that the Quad 4
is NOT free-spinning.  But another GM 4-valve engine is, the 3400 V-6.
Also, I think most of GMs pushrod engines are.  The general rule at GM
is if it has a belt, it must be free-spinning.  If it's got a chain, it
may be, may not be.  Other engines which I know are free spinning:
late model Escort 1.9L, VW 1.8L 16 valve.

In summary, I would suspect that most engines with timing belts are
free spinning.  Those OHC engines with chains probably are not. A
manufacturer may build an engine with a belt that does not free spin.
The manufacturer has a great deal of confidence in his design, and you
have a big bill if he is wrong.  With my engine, GM had a buyback program
going, so I got a new one--the company ate the $5700 for the engine, and I
got a new clutch installed for just the parts cost.

Thomas Brunner
Mechanical Engineering Grad Student
University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign Autolab
tabg2553@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech