HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: yehavi@vms.huji.ac.il
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Pinking with Peugeot-309 at low altitudes.
Date: 27 Sep 92 10:08:16 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: The Hebrew University of Jerusalem

   I have a Peugeot-309, 1,600 model '92. During the run-in period I have
switched from leaded 96-octane fuel to unleaded 95-octane. After the end of the
running-in (when I started to push the engine a little bit...) I noticed
pinking appearing. After retarding the ignition about 3 degrees I get no
pinking at normal driving conditions (Haynes book claims that there is no need
to retard the iginition wih manual xmisstion and to retard it 4 degress with
automatic one - I have a manual one).
  The interesting thing is that I have no problems where I leave - about 1,000
meters above the sea level. When I go to lower areas (sea level to about 200m
above sea level) I have pinking during normal driving conditions. If I push the
throttle more then it is much reduced (and if I press less I get it dissapear,
but then it is hard to climb a hill...). I guess that the changes of the
atomospheric pressure causes slight changes in the mixture which cause this
change. Is it possible? Will a mixture re-calibration fix it (the car ran only
17,000 Km)? I do not want to retard the ignition more as I am losing power.

                                              Thanks, __Yehavi:
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Yehavi Bourvine (4X6DD),     Phones: +972-2-584279,     H
Computation Center,                          +5686      H
The Hebrew University of Jerusalem,  +972-2-521574      H
Givat-Ram,  Jerusalem  91904                            H H H
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InterNet:  YEHAVI@VMS.HUJI.AC.IL                       H
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From: christos@wucs1.wustl.edu (Christos Papadopoulos)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: New inexpensive pre-oiler
Date: 4 Oct 92 20:54:26 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Washington University, St. Louis MO

In article <1992Oct3.132234.26545@ulysses.att.com> esc@ulysses.att.com (E. Steve Crandall) writes:
>
>Has anyone had experience with the "Safety-Start" pre-oiler from
>Decision Makers?
>
>Basically it is a small inexpensive ($60) box that delays fuel and
>spark for 5 seconds allow the engine to be turned over by the starter
>motor with the oil pump lubricating the engine.  At five seconds fuel
>and spark are turned on and the engine kicks over.  It has a temperature
>sensor that allows the immediate starting if the engine is already warm.
>
>The press release claims that "two major American automakers" are 
>evaluating the technique and may install it in future engine computers.
>
>The basic idea sounds good, but I have no idea if this is snake oil.
>
>If anyone is interested the mfg is:
>
>	Decision Makers
>	617-332-6188  
>
>	42 Nickerson Road, Newton, MA    02167
>
>Any idea if this would violate mfg warranties like normal preoilers?
>
>
>Steve Crandall
>evan.crandall@att.com
>

	But is this really a preoiler? I though preoilers were pumps that
build up oil pressure before you crank the engine. The major claim in
favor of preoilers is that they do not allow the metal-to-metal contact
that occurs when the engine is first started. If you crank the engine
without building up the pressure first, you still get metal-to-metal
contact don't you?

	I guess an advandage of letting the engine crank for 5 seconds
is that pressure builds up before the engine starts and idles at
about 1000 rpm. Therefore less wear occurs because the engine is rotating
at much less velocity. However, in my car it takes 1-2 seconds for the
oil light to go off (ie it takes that long for pressure to build-up
with the engine idling). Is 5 seconds of cranking enough to
build up enough pressure? And what about the wear on the starter?

	In any case, $60 for a simple delay circuit sounds too expensive
to me. You could probably rig something together with parts from Radio
Shack for about $10. Unless it does something else that I am missing!

Christos.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: DOHC on a V8 possible?
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 28 Sep 92 08:43:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> >How about the Lexus SC400. An easy 250 HP from 4 liters (Maybe Ford
-> >should take note since their Mustang GT only has 225 HP from 5
-> liters!).

> uh huh, but the 302 has lots of torque everywhere.
> peak hp ain't the whole story.


 The concept of a 302 having "lots of torque everywhere" is somewhat
amusing when you've been spending your time working on bored-out 455
Pontiac and 454 Chevy stuff <grin>, but you have the correct idea.

 The shapes of the horsepower and torque curves have a lot to do with
driveability.  Horsepower is a big selling point in Japan, probably even
more than it was in the US during the horsepower wars of the '50s and
'60s.  So the engineers reshape the power curve to make a big peak near
redline to please the marketing people, and then use various tricks
(variable ratio turbo housings, intake port butterflies on 4-valve
heads, variable cam timing, variable-length intake runners, etc) to
boost the torque curve at the bottom, where most people actually drive.

 As a useful approximation, you might figure any given engine has
'x' amount of area under its power curve.  You can change the shape of
the curve by minor twiddling, but if you add power at the top, it has to
come from somewhere.  Ford and Datsun chose different shapes for their
curves due to the intended markets and characteristics of their
vehicles.
        
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: brownr@hydra.rtp.dg.com (Randy Brown)
Subject: Re: 305 hp ratings
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 92 15:13:18 GMT
Organization: DG-RTP Graphics Group
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech

In article <1992Sep28.023533.25545@sol.UVic.CA> atovorni@engr.UVic.CA writes:
>In article 2700121@boi.hp.com, wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii) writes:
>>
>>Many of those GM 305's are only rated at 145 hp at best.  It IS pretty sad...
>  
>AT BEST??
>
>I have never heard of a 305 rated at 145 hp. The two-barrel early eighties
>267 was rated at about 145.
>
>Andy.


Data (not all 305's were this bad, this is a list of 145-155 hp 305's):

===================

               3rd Generation Camaro Small Block V-8 Engine Guide

                                                             Rear Axle Ratio
Yr Model  Trans Eng  CR Displace    HP     Torque  Induct Manual     Automatic
          codes         Liter,ci                          std  opt   std   opt
--------------------------------------------------------------(G92)-------(G92)-
82 SCoupe    A3 LG4  8.6 5.0 305 145@4000 240@2000 4BBL   ---- ----  2.73  ----
82 Berlin    A3 LG4  8.6 5.0 305 145@4000 240@2000 4BBL   ---- ----  2.73  ----
82 Z28    M4,A3 LG4  8.6 5.0 305 145@4000 240@2000 4BBL   2.73 ----  2.73  ----


83 SCoupe M5,A4 LG4  8.6 5.0 305 150@4000 240@2400 4BBL   3.23 3.42  3.08  ----
83 Berlin M5,A4 LG4  8.6 5.0 305 150@4000 240@2400 4BBL   3.23 3.42  3.08  ----
83 Z28    M5,A4 LG4  8.6 5.0 305 150@4000 240@2400 4BBL   3.23 3.42  3.23  ----


84 SCoupe M5,A4 LG4  8.6 5.0 305 150@4000 240@2400 4BBL   3.23 3.73  3.08  ----
84 Berlin    A4 LG4  8.6 5.0 305 150@4000 240@2400 4BBL   ---- ----  3.08  ----
84 Z28    M5,A4 LG4  8.6 5.0 305 150@4000 240@2400 4BBL   3.23 3.73  3.23  ----


85 SCoupe    A4 LG4  9.5 5.0 305 155@4200 245@2000 4BBL   ---- ----  3.08  ----
85 Berlin    A4 LG4  9.5 5.0 305 155@4200 245@2000 4BBL   ---- ----  3.08  ----
85 Z28    M5,A4 LG4  9.5 5.0 305 155@4200 245@2000 4BBL   3.23 ----  3.08  ----
85 IROC-Z M5,A4 LG4  9.5 5.0 305 155@4200 245@2000 4BBL   3.23 ----  3.23  ----

86 SCoupe M5,A4 LG4  9.5 5.0 305 155@4200 245@2000 4BBL   2.73 ----  2.73  ----
86 Berlin    A4 LG4  9.5 5.0 305 155@4200 245@2000 4BBL   ---- ----  2.73  ----

===================

Randy
From: seanr@lobo.rmhs.colorado.edu (Sean Reifschneider)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: How does PCV valve work
Date: 28 Sep 92 16:18:44 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Rocky Mountain High School, Fort Collins, CO

In article <25292@oasys.dt.navy.mil> gallant@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Robert Gallant) writes:
>I have an '86 Rx7 that is being supercharged and I need to put in a
>PVC system.

PVC or PCV?  If you're meaning PCV, there's one problem with that.  In the
rotary engine there IS no crankcase, hence no need to vent it...

Let me know what kind of system you're thinking of putting in.  I've got an '84
with a 13B and have been thinking of supercharging.  Probably by E-Mail, though.

Sean
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: brownr@hydra.rtp.dg.com (Randy Brown)
Subject: Re: New inexpensive pre-oiler
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 92 19:54:25 GMT
Organization: DG-RTP Graphics Group

In article <VBREAULT@gmr.com> vbreault@rinhp750.gmr.com (Val Breault) writes:
>In article <1992Oct3@att.com> esc@ulysses.att.com (E. Steve Crandall) writes:
>
>   Has anyone had experience with the "Safety-Start" pre-oiler from
>   Decision Makers?
>
>Consider:  Manufacturer "A" has a car that starts right up and manufacturer
>"B" has a car that won't start in less than 5 seconds.  I can see the adver-
>tising now...  "B"s engines are so weak that they had to resort to a delayed
>start in order to be able to warrant them.  On the other hand, "A" cars can 
>be counted on to start right away, run strong.... just like they've always
>done.  
>
>I really enjoy the way my old Chevy 350 starts.... It usually cranks
>for 500 to 800 MILLIseconds before popping to life.  I can't imagine
>happily sitting there for 5 whole seconds.

And consider the losses Manufacturer "A" would incur by the decrease in sales
to drive-away bandits and bank robbers.  Would you like to sit there for 5
seconds, and *then* hope the car would start after that?  ;-)

Randy

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bell@asdsun.larc.nasa.gov (John Bell)
Subject: Re: PTFE (Teflon) Additives
Organization: NASA Langley Research Center, Hampton, VA  USA
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 20:53:43 GMT

In article <1992Sep30.143335.24856@wuecl.wustl.edu>, anbo@wuee1.wustl.edu (Albrecht Jander) writes:
|> iseman@ravel.udel.edu (Stephen Early) writes:
|> 
|> > In article <o9kqRB4w165w@hale.cts.com> system@hale.cts.com (System Administra
|> > >I'm sure this must have been discussed somewhere before, but I didn't see 
|> > >it...
|> > >
|> > >What is the general informed attitude towards Teflon (A registered 
|> > >trademark of the DuPont Corperation, DuPont is a registered trademard of 
|> > >the DuPont Corperation also.  I bet Trademarks has been trademarked 
|> > >somewhere also, but....) additives?
|> > 
|> > Oh god, please don't rehash this thread.
|> > 
|> > Steve 
|> 
|> As long as there isn't a clear and concise article in the FAQ regarding 
|> this particular question, people will continue to ask!!  So, one of you
|> guys who gets all worked up when someone asks about T____n should write
|> up a nice article on the (presumed) pros and cons of such additives and
|> have it put in the FAQ.  After all, if you had doubts about putting some
|> gee-whiz product in your oil, where would you turn to for enlightenment?


I agree!! If -you- don't like seeing threads repeated, then write an FAQ
yourself and post it regularly. It only makes sense that if you're the one
bothered by it, then you should be the one to solve the problem. Don't
give newcomers a hard time for asking a simple (and relevant) question.

-----
John Bell
NASA Langley Research Center
My opinions are my own (obviously)
From: eli@cisco.com (Steve Elias)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Seal for gas leak?
Date: 1 Oct 92 17:00:07 GMT
Organization: cisco Routers-R-us Systems, CA, USA

i should have also mentioned that an epoxy seal can be 
totally solid on some gas tank ruptures.  but in a pressurized
fuel system i really wouldn't bet on it -- replace the parts
in that case -- not sure if 82 civic is pressurized system, maybe not,
since it must have carb.

/eli

--
 steve elias x4517
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

  You've got it right. Mixed early in the hottest part of the exaust flow
it chemically changes the emissions to something mother nature can handle.
(atleast better)
From: seanr@lobo.rmhs.colorado.edu (Sean Reifschneider)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Time of the day and Filling up
Date: 4 Oct 92 15:19:11 GMT
Organization: Rocky Mountain High School, Fort Collins, CO

In article <81013@ut-emx.uucp> shoroff@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Bart Simpson) writes:
>The question is, Does it matter what time of the day you fill up your gas
>tank? I remember reading in one of the books(Auto repair for Dummies by
>Dana Sclaar ??) that filling up during the colder times of the day gets

It's the temperature of the storage tank that you have to worry about.  And
due to it being underground, the temperature of the gas stays pretty much
constant.  I wouldn't expect large variances at all.  But, I also don't
fill my tank completely full unless I'm on a road trip because the gas will
expand when it warms in the tank.

In one of my physics classes we calculated the rate of expansion on 12 gallons
os fule between 30 and 70 deg F, and it was several gallons.  I don't remember
the exact numbers, though.

Sean
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: neal@cmptrc.lonestar.org (Neal Howard)
Subject: Re: 351M
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 19:36:29 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: CompuTrac Inc., Richardson TX

In article <75.88.uupcb@chaos.lrk.ar.us> dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) writes:
>
>-> A leaking intake manifold gasket or a corroded intake manifold face
>-> is a potential culprit. Especially with aluminum intakes, poor
>
> This guy's problem isn't there.  The Clevelands have absolutely dry
>intake manifolds - they run the water through the head gasket and a
>passage over the timing chain.  The Clevelands were oddities, alright.
>                   

Ahh, yes! my memory is coming back. THe Clevelands (351C/351M/400) all
did have a totally dry intake manifold. It's the 429/460's that have the front
portion of the intake with a water passage PLUS the troublesome plate and
die-cast timing cover that rots away and leaks coolant all down the timing
chain and gears. On the 429/460's the timing cover formed the rear half of
the water pump housing too. 
<--------------------------------------------------------------------->
< Neal Howard                         | '91 Harley Sportster XLH-1200 >
< email: neal@cmptrc.lonestar.org     | DoD # 686                     >
< CompuTrac, Inc. (Richardson, TX)    | '69 Cougar XR7-GT390          >
<--------------------------------------------------------------------->
From: ljb@parkcity.dr.att.com (BLO54620-BonhamLJ(DR2194)240)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Dodge 2.2L Turbo I engine block sources
Date: 29 Sep 92 22:22:52 GMT

In article <1992Sep29.144320.8649@ns.network.com>, allen@corrado.network.com (A.C. Middleton) writes:
|> I have an '85 Omni GLH Turbo/115K.  When the water pump/face plate
|> was last replaced, the mechanic said the block was cracked.  Though
|> the block isn't visible, I believe them since there is an oil leak
|> in the area.  Chrysler offers a remanufactured Turbo I short block
|> for $1855, which seems rather expensive. One local engine rebuilder
|> quoted approx. $2400, but assumed finding the engine in the scrap
|> yard.  Does anyone know of other sources for Dodge engines? 


Try More Power Masters in Denver CO at (303) 935-1863 and them them Larry
recommended them to you.  They have a extensive collection of Chrysler parts for
Mopars 1959-Present and their prices are usually quite good.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: More carb questions
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 18:39:54 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 Re: Very low idle speed until throttle plate cracks open

 It sounds to me like your idle mixture is off, and the engine is much
happier running off the primary circuit. In most cases the newer carbs 
have "tamper-proof" idle mixture screws; some have a nasty little 
solenoid which chatters, modulating the mixture (the hated "feedback"
carb, which thankfully I know no more about). Anyhow, my guess is that
the idle mixture is leaner than desireable when cold. Your choke ought
to be compensating both by closing (richening the mixture) and by setting
up the fast idle cam. Is your choke operating properly?

-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: DOHC on a V8 possible?
Date: 6 Oct 92 08:16:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> >-> Mustangs, F-cars, Are there any others?
-> >
-> ><cue in choir music>  Buick Grand National GNX.

>      NASCAR.  IROC.  TRANS-AM.

 Unless someone makes something called a "Nascar", those are racing
organizations.  We were talking about cars.  If you were talking about
cars, "Trans-Am" and "IROC" are F-bodies as referred to above.
      
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty)
Subject: Re: Speedo and tach in '73 BMW 2002
Organization: New York State Institute for Sebastian Cabot Studies
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 21:37:43 GMT

In article <thompsje.717787958@craft.camp.clarkson.edu> thompsje@craft.camp.clarkson.edu (Jeffrey E. Thompson) writes:
>I know the systems are independent of one another, but it would make sense
>if they were both the same type. (ie both electronic or both analog)
>does anybody know which is which and why ??

why do you say this?  mechanical speedos and electronic tachs are
a very common combination cars from the time period in question (late
60s and early 70s.)

richard
-- 
richard welty                            518-393-7228
welty@cabot.balltown.cma.com
  ``if you can read this, mario, you're too close''
    -- bumper sticker seen on a CART safety truck
From: phl@cs.man.ac.uk ( Peter H Liyanage)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: DOHC on a V8 possible?
Date: 29 Sep 92 10:45:33 GMT
Reply-To: phl@fiveg.icl.co.uk ( Peter H Liyanage)
Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of Manchester UK

In article <1992Sep28.010308.22652@leland.Stanford.EDU> tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen) writes:
>In article <9N5oRB4w165w@hale.cts.com> vreality@hale.cts.com (Vreality) writes:
>>How about the Lexus SC400. An easy 250 HP from 4 liters (Maybe Ford 
>>should take note since their Mustang GT only has 225 HP from 5 liters!).
>
>uh huh, but the 302 has lots of torque everywhere.
>peak hp ain't the whole story.
>-teddy
From: walkerr@yaya.WPI.EDU (Robert A Walker)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Car storage
Date: 28 Sep 92 22:24:57 GMT
Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute
NNTP-Posting-Host: yaya.wpi.edu


>what I need.  Basically I need to know the steps involved in the long term
>storage of a car.  I recall someone posted a memo from one of the Armed Forces
 I recently read an article in Four Wheeler, i think, well anyway,  They said 
to put in fresh oil, drain and flush the coolant system and refill.  put it up
on blocks.  Store the tires somewere, i assume next to the car would be fine.
Ditch the battery,  if your leaving it for a long time, then just sell it, but
still take it out.  Wash the car,  underneath and everything, get all salt and 
dirt off.  Wax it and leave teh wax on to protect the paint and stick it in
a garage.  Obviously these aren't in order, but hopefully you can figure out
that you take the tires off after you bring it to the car wash.  Oh yeah, try
and get the gas tank as empty as possible since the gas turns to varnish, well
thats what i heard.   Just put the tires on, new oil,  some good gas, not 
the 3 parts water 1 part something flammable stuff.  A new battery.  A wash and
wax and it should be good as new.  And don't forget to take it off the blocks.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: DOHC on a V8 possible?
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 23 Sep 92 09:38:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> You forgot to mention that the Corvette ZR-1 engine is designed by
-> Lotus - a British company (OK I know it's owned by GM).

...and built by Mercury Marine in Oklahoma, not by Chevrolet in Detroit.
And apparently not long for this world, as ZR-1 sales have taken a
nosedive since the introduction of the 300hp pushrod motor.
                 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ravalent@rodan.acs.syr.edu (Bob Valentine)
Subject: Re: Engine cranks but not running
Keywords: 350 Buick engine
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 92 12:28:28 EDT

In article <1992Oct1.004125.26626@cbnewsm.cb.att.com> newark@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (antonio.cruz) writes:
>I towed a 1974 Buick Regal with a 350 (H) Buick engine home last week.
>The engine cranks after I installed a battery. The car was in this 
>lady's garage for 4 years without being turned on or driven.
>I modified the old points & condensor system with a '77 HEI system.
>I changed the plugs and oil. The timing is on the specs. The old
>oil had smell of gas and was overfilled. The engine cranks but doesn't run.
>It has spark. And we used quick starter fluid. Back fired once or twice.
>
>Any ideas what is wrong. The lady drove it in the garage with no
>problems. It has 100K miles. 
>
>Thanks for any solutions.
>
>++++
>Tony
>++++

Well, sounds like two things; 
    1. By "modified" you mean you just put in a whole HEI, right?  
         At the risk of souning insulting, where did you power it from?
         The HEI must get full current 12v, not limited, like the power
         wire that feeds the old points-and-coil system.
    2. The backfiring act sounds like two things: 
          1. Valves and rings aren't sealing to well from sitting for
              4 years.  Put some oil in the cylinders, and try again,
              or even better, do a compression test.
          2. Timing is off.  I've found that HEI's are REALLY sensative
             adjustment. 

    After sitting for 4 years, the combo of a slightly weak spark, poor
compression, and slightly off timing CAN make starting a real pain.

Anymore Questions -->

  ->>Bob        | ravalent@rodan.acs.syr.edu

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
From: frimpong@eecom.gatech.edu (Kwabena Frimpong)
Subject: Help!! Nissan Timing Belt.
Reply-To: frimpong@eecom.gatech.edu
Organization: School of EE, Georgia Institute of Technology, Atlanta, GA
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 14:18:11 GMT

I just recently bought a 1988 Nissan Sentra with ~85000 miles on it. Just so
I can sleep peacefully at night, I want to change all the belts on it especially
the timing belt. It looks like the timing belt is easily accessible - basically,
remove the drivebelts and you are at the timing belt. I am sure there is more to
changing a timing belt than just gaining access to it. Any advice on what to do/not
to do, and also what to look out for, will be greatly appreciated.  If you've successfully changed a timing belt on a Nissan Sentra before, please share your expertise with me...

---
**************************************************************************
*  GEORGE KWABENA FRIMPONG                EMAIL: frimpong@ee.gatech.edu  *
*  SCHOOL OF ELECTRICAL ENGINEERING       				 *
*  GEORGIA INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY    					 *
*  ATLANTA								 *
**************************************************************************

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech