HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: michaelp@calvin.usc.edu (Michael Peterson)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Terrariums & Green Iguanas?
Date: 6 Apr 1992 09:54:09 -0700
Organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA
Distribution: world
Reply-To: michaelp@calvin.usc.edu (Michael Peterson)
NNTP-Posting-Host: calvin.usc.edu


Does anyone have any suggestions on how to put together a 
terrarium for a green iguana. I'm curiuos what other people
have done and what work and what doesn't.

		Michael L Peterson
		michaelp@calvin.usc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: larissa@finance.esd.sgi.com (Larissa Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: reinhardtii (was Re: Lucky herp)
Date: 15 Apr 92 22:40:04 GMT
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc.

|> >> but they just call it a "Rubber Snake" and list the proper name (Calibari
|> >> rheinharti ?) to avoid hassles.
|> > 
|> >Ross lists _Calabaria_reinhardtii_ as "African burrowing python".  As of
|> >1990, no successful captive breedings had been recorded.  Dark grey/black
|> >with orange/light brown speckles, no apparent neck.
|> 
|>    My guess is that it is a rubber boa.  I don't have my herp books
|> here, but I believe they are indigenous to northwest Mexico and/or
|> southwest US.
|> 

It does sound like a rubber boa.  To my extreme disappointment, it _is_ indigenous to those areas.  I've always wanted one, but since the rubber boa lives in California, it is illegal to buy one here.  Plus which, it is a 'threatened' species (I think).  In general, rubber boas are a very small boa, maxing out at three feet.  They are very friendly and if you wear them as wristlets, they'll sit there all day.

Smiles.
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: donb@tamri.com (Don Baldwin)
Subject: Guest post
Organization: TOSHIBA America MRI, San Francisco
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 92 00:42:16 GMT

Posted for Lisa_Forman@go.com:

          Hi,

          Thanks for all the information concerning how to clean my
          dirty cages.  I start cleaning tomorrow.

          Now about heating. I have always used a heat pad under a
          glass aquarium. NOw I have three wood cages with light bulb
          in the inside top of the cages.  Will one single light
          adequately heat the cage.

          I am thinking about snakes for these cages. One of the
          snakes, a brazilian rainbow boa, has specific heat and
          humidity requirements. How to heat the cage to tropical
          temperatures and humidity?  I don't want to put a heat
          pad inside the wood cages.

          Any advice.

          Oh, Ren and Stimpy are eating me out of my house. They
          pig out on 30 crickets a day between the two of them.
          So, I am buying in bulk now. 1,000 crickets.....

          I have Lyodd Lemke's 1992 price list. If you would like it,
          send me a fax number.


          Lisa
          Lisa_Forman@go.com
From: stevep@wrq.com (Steve Poole)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Blackening spots on skin
Date: 10 Apr 92 16:31:33 GMT
Organization: Walker Richer & Quinn

My iguana has recently developed a strange skin condition that
I'm hoping someone knows about.  He shed a couple of weeks ago.
About a week ago a yellowish spot appeared on his back above
his hind leg.  It gradually grew darker in a concentric fashion,
with most of the spot now being black, fading to the yellowish
brown at the perimeter.  There's another spot like it on the
other side of his back (not quite symmetrically located), and
another on a hind leg that hasn't turned beyond the y-b color.

The spots don't seem to pain him, though if I prod at them
he'll shrink away just a bit, as if it's a minor irritation.
I put Neosporin on them, not knowing what else to do.  I'm
certain they aren't burns.  His activity level hasn't been
affected by them, and he's his usual friendly self.

Does this sound serious?  Should I take him to the vet, or wait
for another shed?  Is this the "blackening skin syndrome" that
one reads about occasionally without being told anything useful?
Thanks very much for any advice; I'm a little worried.
  - Steve
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: donb@tamri.com (Don Baldwin)
Subject: Animal attacks on humans
Organization: TOSHIBA America MRI, San Francisco
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 92 19:10:51 GMT

While eating lunch a moment ago, I happened to run across two interesting
articles in the San Francisco Chronicle.

The first one, on page A9, concerned a Burmese Python owner in Toronto
who was killed by his snake.  No additional information (was he feeding
it at the time?) was provided..

The second article, on page D3, concerned dog attacks on humans in the
US.  It stated that 1 to 3 million attacks are reported every year,
with a range of 2 to 11 deaths per year.

Guess which article will cause people to try and ban the animal in
question?

Sigh.

   don
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: datri@convex.com (Anthony A. Datri)
Subject: Re: reinhardtii (was Re: Lucky herp)
Organization: Engineering, CONVEX Computer Corp., Richardson, Tx., USA
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1992 00:01:27 GMT
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by a user at CONVEX Computer
              Corp. The opinions expressed are those of the user and
              not necessarily those of CONVEX.

>be a rubber boa, but now I'm reconsidering.  ???  If you buy him, you'll have
>plenty of time to investigate :-).  Is he friendly?

I haven't determined that yet.  He pretty much just sits there in his tank,
looking lonely.  His tail makes it clear that he's fossorial, so I'll bet
that he'd rather hide than fight.

>walnut shells.  One pet store I know uses pine shavings for transportation.

Isn't it amazing how people whose business is animals can be so stupid?

>Remember - It's only a problem if they catch you. :-)  Typical collage dorm
>policy :-).  (Not that I'm advocating major illegal activities or anything.)

Yeah, but I got slapped with a fine and had an old friend (with a couple
hundred bucks worth of rodents in him) confiscated, it'd be a bad scene.

-- 


======================================================8--<
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: nnbarn@buzzard.lerc.nasa.gov (Paullette Hunsdorf)
Subject: PROBLEM WITH CORN SNAKE 
Keywords: digesting problem (GROSS)
 
Organization: NASA - Lewis Research Center Cleve.,Ohio 
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1992 16:44:14 GMT


	I have a 3' corn snake. He is about an inch and a half diameter. Smaller then most corns I've seen his same length.  He is a real aggressive good eater, but lately I've noticed that instead of the usual snake type feces you can actually identify it as a mouse. (gross) He is in a tank with a constant floor temp. of 78 to 80.  My question is: Is he digesting poorly or is he doing a throw up job ?  This happens about two days after he eats, and I can't tell what end it's coming from. I haven't seen him actua





lly discharge it.  I've had him for about two months, this started about two weeks ago. He gets a mouse every three four days.  My other nine herps never displayed any behavior like this.... Whats his problem ?  If the other herps aren`t hungry they just won't kill and eat.      


		please help.... any clues would be helpful				


						PH
From: v105mahs@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (Peter P. Donohue)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: What do you feed a leopard frog---QUICK!
Date: 14 Apr 92 18:33:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <92104.185449CBTCC@CUNYVM.BITNET>, CBTCC@CUNYVM.BITNET writes...
>Guess the subject says it all...I have him and I'm curious and what do I
>keep him/her in?  All water, 1/2 and 1/2?  Thanks,

   I've never kept leopard frogs, but I can think of a few pieces of advice
that may be helpful.  Water wise, I'd set him up in a terrarium (as opposed
to an aquarium).  Some sort of substrate (gravel) with a decent sized bowl
as a pond.  Keep the substrate reasonably dry - your trying to set up a
tank with both land and water.
   It should be safe to feed him crickets (available at most pet stores).
If he is to small, you may have to find young crickets or wiongless fruit
flies.  Sory to say, I can't help you with quantity.

						Pete

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Peter P. Donohue - University at Buffalo, Graduate School of Management
bitnet:   V105MAHS@UBVMS                . I've stopped looking for a job...
internet: V105MAHS@UBVMS.CC.BUFFALO.EDU .    I'm now begging for one!!!
Organization: University of Maine System
Date: Monday, 13 Apr 1992 19:23:16 EDT
From: (((ZERO))) <IO00844@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Green Iguana Toenail Trimming
Distribution: usa

I think the only reason you should feel the necessity to cut your little
igs nails would be to save yourself the pain of handling it.  Cutting a
small iguanas nails tends to be more difficult (at least in my case) that it
is as they get larger. You have to be careful to not cut too high or else
you'll get a bit of bleeding..and I imagine it's not terribly comfortable
to the iguana either. I've gone this accidently a couple times...though not
in quite some time. What you'll want to do is go just high enough to snip the
very tip of the nail and not really much higher. You'll have to be careful
because sciccors and nail clippers have a tendency to clip a bit higher up
as you do the actual snipping.
Also, you'l have to be patient since most of the iguanas I know don't
stay still long enough for a whole nail clipping session. Take your time.
When the iguana is small it can be very difficult to do the cutting but as
they get larger it's pretty plain as to how far up you should cut.
All in all, if you handle your iguana, with clipped claws or not, you'll
probably end up with gazillions of little scratches  anyway. I do.
I've heard of people filing their iguanas nails instead of cutting. I suppose
if this works you could always try that. It may be a bit less 'risky'...
though I can't imagine it being any less difficult.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Zero Z. Batzell     | Amiga User.     "We come in peace...shoot to kill!"
(207)-581-7579      | Iguana Keeper.     "NCC-42 U.S.S. HEART OF GOLD"
University of Maine | Video Hobbyist.    "Live long and Don't Panic!!"
student with a      | Star Trek TNG Fan.
(mostly harmless)   | Douglas Adams Fan.     MAJOR: Life, The Universe,
transfer in mind.   | Orson Scott Card Fan.         and Everything.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
  The Enterprise is not a ship for freeloading degenerate hitchhikers.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: tracer@U.WASHINGTON.EDU (David Tracer)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: HERPAHOLICS
Date: 16 Apr 92 22:20:29 GMT

Ok I'll contribute my own list to this thread:

13 SNAKES:
__________
1.1 Corn Snakes (_Elaphe guttata guttata_) - 1 "normal"  1 "snow"
1.1 Sonoran Gopher Snakes (_Pituophis melanoleucus affinis_) - albinos
1.1 Kenyan Sand Boas (_Eryx colubrinus loveridgei_)
2.2 Solomon Island Boas (_Candoia carinata paulsoni_)
0.1 New Guinea Viper Boa (_Candoia aspera_)
1.0 Good Ol' Burmese (_Python molurus bivittatus_)
0.0.1 Scarlet King Snake (_Lampropeltis triangulum elapsoides_)

It's not that big a collection but enough to keep me pretty busy with cage
cleaning, feeding, & changing water on a daily basis.

I'd love to see what others have!  

Happy herping,
David
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: kyle@Csli.Stanford.EDU (Kyle Wohlmut)
Subject: Re: BURMESE OUTDOORS
Followup-To: kyle@csli.stanford.edu, rec.pets.herp
Summary: Snake mites
Keywords: mites, rattlesnakes
Organization: Rocking Pig Enterprises
Distribution: public, world
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 18:36:46 GMT

In article <1992Apr13.173615.25675@news.eng.convex.com>
datri@convex.com (Anthony "All the Marbles" Datri) writes:

>>   Someone mentioned that there are rattlesnakes in the area.  I don't
>>think that they would pose a threat.  You sound like you will let the
>>snake wander around on a lawn - timber rattlers stick to woods.
>
>That's not what I meant --  I intended that to mean that there might be
>snake mites around.

Hmmm, well, wouldn't the snake mites hang out where the snakes usually
are?

All in all I don't see a problem with this either.  Correct me if I'm
wrong, but ticks are set to go for either warm-blooded or cold-blooded
animals exclusively.  So if your herp is out and about where there
isn't really any normal herp population, it is basically safe.  That's
the impression I get when talking to my vet.  But then, she says don't
take exotics out ever... on the other hand, Santa Cruz has a pretty
abundant herp population, unlike (I imagine) Philadelphia...

-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/
Kyle
'Life sucks and then you die.  Then life sucks again.'
  --Ghaur reincarnation theorem
/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: datri@convex.com (Anthony A. Datri)
Subject: Re: BEWARE OF HEATING PADS!
Keywords: heating, pad, light, rock, sizzle
Organization: Engineering, CONVEX Computer Corp., Richardson, Tx., USA
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1992 22:33:37 GMT
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by a user at CONVEX Computer
              Corp. The opinions expressed are those of the user and
              not necessarily those of CONVEX.

>fuse inline to prevent overheating?  It's simple: just crank the pad up to
>the maximum expected heat-setting

On every pad that I've seen, the maximum heat setting is "on".  The lowest
is "off".

>You can even have an arrangement with two pads, one on each side of the cage
>connected to a relay in such a way that when one circuit is interrupted (as
>when a fuse blows), the other one is made.

Why bother?  I'd be afraid of both of them managing to be on at the same time,
trapping the herp.  If a single fused pad bites the dust, the worst that'll
happen is that the herp cools down to room temperature until you notice and
deal with it.  Unless you have really cold rooms or ignore your herps for
days onn end, this should be fine.
-- 


======================================================8--<
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: am830@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jenny Beaven-Leibow)
Subject: Clouded Boa?
Reply-To: am830@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jenny Beaven-Leibow)
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 92 14:36:43 GMT


Just got our first big guy (we've kept garters for a couple of years)  and 
I know this is doing it in the wrong order :-), but does anyone have any
info or experience with clouded boas? The only picture I've seen shows one
in the middle of a terrific hiss with a caption like "not known for docility"
which surprised me as ours seems quite gentle.
 We got him at a pet store, I know we should have started with a ball python
or some other "beginner" herp, but it was kinda love at first sight... once
I picked him up I just didn't want to put him down. The pet store dude told
us he (the snake) hadn't eaten in three months and we'd probably need help
at first - however he hissed and seemed pretty tense at the store, and has
been much more relaxed and inquisitive at home. He's about to shed - I'm
wondering if anyone has advice as to what food to try first when he's ready.
He's about 4 feet long.

thanks
/jen

-- 
                   am830@cleveland.freenet.edu
or: jen@eris.isc.rit.edu jmbsys@ritvm.bitnet  jmb1989@ultb.isc.rit.edu 
     "Cats like angels are supposed to be thin"
			- Marge Piercy (who never met my cats)
From: larissa@finance.esd.sgi.com (Larissa Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: new garder snake
Date: 15 Apr 92 22:33:16 GMT
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc.

In article <92104.235637TJS119@psuvm.psu.edu>, TJS119@psuvm.psu.edu writes:
|> Hi!  I'm thinking about getting a garter snake, but I really can't find that mu
|> ch info on them.  They books galore on boas or pythons, but not a poor garder.
|>  So can I keep him in a 5 gal aquarium.  Is it big enough?  Will he eat cricket
|> s?  The one book I saw said they love earthworms, but I can't get earthworms.
|> What's the deal on the heat rocks?  Since so many people say 'Bad Bad!' what el
|> se could I use? A lamp?  Will he get really tame? And finally, are ribbon snake
|> s better for beginners than garders? Oh also, can some one please tell me of a
|> good book to read on general care herpology and one on snake keeping?  Thanks a
|>  bunch.
|> 
|>                                         Herp wanna be,
|> 
|>                                              Tim

Hi - I own a few garters myself.  They're a pretty good snake, but they don't really get 'tame'.  They also grow real fast.  Mine are a texas garter and a california garter (rescued from the fisheries).  Both eat fish.  When they were babies, I fed them feeder guppies, and as they got larger, they graduated to goldfish (now, large goldfish).  I get them nightcrawlers when I can (as a change of diet), but only the texas garter will eat them.  They don't eat crickets at all.  The best way to feed them is to 



put the fish live into a bowl and let the snake go in and hunt for them on it's own.  Sometimes if I'm concerned about the snake not eating w/in ten minutes after I put the fish in, I'll drop a goldfish near the snake and the flopping attracts the snake's notice.  I feed them about every other week (and they shed about every month).  I put liquid vitamins in the water with the fish.

A five gallon tank is okay for a small garter.  As it gets bigger, you'll eventually want a bigger tank, but that'll be probably in a year.

I think garters are better than ribbon snakes.  From what I've seen in pet stores and heard, ribbons are just really wild and never calm down.  My garters are pretty calm and I can hold the texas one a lot, though he won't stay in one place and won't let me 'wear' him.  The california is a very skitterish fellow and he gets very scared when I pick him up, but that's understandable since he was a wild-caught critter (plus, the texas garter is bigger then him).

I've never had a problem with my hot rock, but my garters only seem to come near it when they're digesting the fish.  I think garters require a lower temperature in general than the more expensive snakes.

Good luck!
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: donb@tamri.com (Don Baldwin)
Subject: Guest post
Organization: TOSHIBA America MRI, San Francisco
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 92 16:35:52 GMT

Posted for Lisa_Forman@go.com:

          I was given some used wooden cages from a friend.  They are
          in good shape but very dirty.  Some type of substrate (corn
          cob I think) is stuck all over the cage. And the cage has
          mites.  I want to clean the cages and rid them of mite
          before I put any type of herp in them. What should I use
          to clean the cages and rid them of the mites. I was thinking
          of water and alcohol.

          lisa
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: pholland@iastate.edu (Paul J Hollander)
Subject: Re: Anole Problem
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames, IA
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1992 15:43:29 GMT

In article <HRh+-kC@engin.umich.edu> ftit@arno.engin.umich.edu (Sergej 
Roytman) writes:
>
>I've had a couple of anoles for about four months now and the larger
>one (Foo's Theorem: for any two reptiles A and B and quasi-order <,
>where X<Y iff Y is larger than X, either A<B or B<A -- you heard it
>here) has just realised that it's fun to chase the smaller one around.
>This results in the smaller one's having to hide under the plants most
>of the time and not getting enough exposure to heat and UV.  I think 
>there's been some biting going on too.  Is this some sort of spring
>thing, or are we talking bad habit here?  If this is a habit in the
>making, what do I do about it?
>
>In case it's relevent, I'm using a 5.5 gal. plastic aquarium with a
>vented cover, ventilation holes, a climbing branch, and plenty of
>plastic plants.  The lizards are about 3-4in. snout-to-vent.  As I said,
>I haven't had this problem in the past, but is it possible that the
>cage is too small?  (I hope not.  There isn't enough space in my dorm
>room for a ten-gallon!)

Sounds to me as if you are getting some territorial behavior here.  The larger
is trying to chase the smaller out of its territory.  I don't know what size
territory anoles have in the wild.  And I'm not sure what you can do about it
except put the smaller in another tank.

Paul Hollander    pholland@iastate.edu
Behold the tortoise: he makes no progress unless he sticks his neck out.



Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: pholland@iastate.edu (Paul J Hollander)
Subject: Re: database of snake names
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames, IA
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 18:07:31 GMT

In article <1992Apr13.145125.17247@acsu.buffalo.edu> 
v105mahs@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (Peter P. Donohue) writes:
>
>   A while ago, someone mentioned something about posting a database of
>scientific names and common names of all the snakes.  Is anything
>hapenning with it?  I would still be interested in receiving a copy.
>If it is printout form and needs to be entered, maybe someone has a OCR
>program and scanner and can scan it in?  I could try - I have a scanner
>and OCR, but have never used them.  Thanks.

This would be quite a project, as there are around 2700 species of snakes.
On the other hand, a smaller database, like all the Boidae or all the 
_Lampropeltis_, should be fairly manageable.  Not me though; I've got too
many projects already.

Paul Hollander    pholland@iastate.edu
Behold the tortoise: he makes no progress unless he sticks his neck out.
From: v105mahs@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (Peter P. Donohue)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: honduran milksnakes
Date: 13 Apr 92 15:47:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41


   I have recently become interested enough in the honduran milksnakes
(lampropeltis triangulum hondurensis) that I've starting searching for
information.  What I'm interested in is how the phases (tricolor,
orange and tangerine) occur.  Is the tangerine phase similar to
albinism, a recessive trait?  Or are they different color patterns that
if you bred one of each, you would get some of each type as babies?  Or
if you bred them, would you get something in between (similar to breeding 
a striped and banded cal. king)?  Anyone know?
   I would like to pick up a pair of them.  I would love it if I could
get two different phases that when bred together would produce some of
each phase.

                                          Pete

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Peter P. Donohue - University at Buffalo, Graduate School of Management
bitnet:   V105MAHS@UBVMS                . I've stopped looking for a job...
internet: V105MAHS@UBVMS.CC.BUFFALO.EDU .    I'm now begging for one!!!
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp