HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: cpmcgann@swift.cs.tcd.ie
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Waterproofing for an SLR ???
Date: 21 Aug 92 16:59:19 GMT
Organization: Computer Science Department, Trinity College Dublin



I need a waterproof bag, caseing for an SLR. I wish to take windsurfing,
sailing, etc photos. Are there any such devices available. If so what price,
brand, range, durability, resistance, etc...?

Thanks for any info.
From: kcarroll@milton.u.washington.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: optical glass source
Date: 18 Aug 92 22:49:22 GMT
Article-I.D.: u.1992Aug18.224922.21960
Organization: University of Washington

I need a sheet (20x24 inches) of optical
quality glass to flatten composites while
I rephotograph them on a copy stand.
Anyone know a source? 
e-mail to kcarroll@milton.u.washington.edu
thanks, kris carroll
From: jimc@tau-ceti.isc-br.com (Jim Cathey)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Slightly overexposed FujiChrome 100.
Date: 20 Aug 92 04:24:17 GMT
Organization: ISC - Bunker Ramo, Spokane, WA

In article <1992Aug20.010506.23192@citec.oz.au> sgccpgs@citec.oz.au (Paul Salanitri) writes:
>  c)  does IR leak through the camera back itself - just joking (i think)

Yes.  A friend of mine shot a roll of Kodak IR in his 'new' Minolta
SR-102, and it came out with a faint diamond pattern (from the pressure
plate) all over it.  He had used his XE-7 (??) extensively for this before
with no problems, and the recent purchase of a 'spare' body enticed him into
putting the IR into it instead.  Now he knows to do it t'other way around.

>  d)  If I had HIGH ASA IR Film, could I take a picture through a wooden
>      wall - am I being silly?

Yes (you're being silly).

-- 
+----------------+
! II      CCCCCC !  Jim Cathey
! II  SSSSCC     !  ISC-Bunker Ramo
! II      CC     !  TAF-C8;  Spokane, WA  99220
! IISSSS  CC     !  UUCP: uunet!isc-br!jimc (jimc@isc-br.isc-br.com)
! II      CCCCCC !  (509) 927-5757
+----------------+
			"PC's --- the junk bonds of the computer industry"
From: philg@zurich.ai.mit.edu (Philip Greenspun)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Medium-fomrat camera with a self-timer?
Date: 14 Aug 92 21:57:34 GMT
Article-I.D.: zug.PHILG.92Aug14175734
	<1992Aug13.131225.1@acad3.alaska.edu>
Reply-To: philg@martigny.ai.mit.edu
Organization: M.I.T. Artificial Intelligence Lab.
In-reply-to: fsjfz@acad3.alaska.edu's message of 13 Aug 92 21:12:25 GMT


In article <1992Aug13.131225.1@acad3.alaska.edu> fsjfz@acad3.alaska.edu writes:

   My Pentax 645 does NOT have one.  If anyone knows of a company that might make
   a self timer that screws in like a mechanical cable release, i'd be very
   interested in it.  That seems to be the only solution to a camera w/o self
   timer, aside from switching systems. (and i love self timers too.)

I just bought a mechanical self-timer kludge for $16.95 from Samy's
Camera (the unburnt one) in Los Angeles.  It is kind of annoying to
have to stick this onto my heavily computerized (not to mention heavy
and heftily priced) Rollei 6008, but it seems to work OK.  I think
Samy's has an 800 number and in any case they advertise in Shutterbug.

Warning: the packaging says "instructions included" but of course that
is just "pour heureusement" (sp?).

Philip Greenspun
MIT Department of EE
From: daniel@synchrods.UUCP (Daniel Senderowicz)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Wanted Tamron Zoom Adaptall-1
Date: 21 Aug 92 20:08:28 GMT

I'm looking for a Tamron zoom lens in the range of 70-210. It
MUST be the older type, called adaptall-1, rather than
adaptall-2. Please respond via e-mail since I rarely read this
newsgroup. Thanks,

Dan (daniel@synchrods.com)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: rspeirs@javelin.sim.es.com (Ron Speirs)
Subject: Re: B+W Fiber vs. RC paper
Organization: Evans & Sutherland Computer Corporation
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 18:05:10 GMT

In article <1992Aug12.150547.17284@col.hp.com> sparks@col.hp.com (John Sparks) writes:
>In article <223@metran.UUCP> jay@metran.UUCP (Jay Ts) writes:
>>sparks@col.hp.com (John Sparks) writes:
>>:
>>: Some claim that FB paper is more archival than RC, but from what I have
>>: read this is no longer true in general.
>>
>>Maybe I have been out of print making for too long -- are they saying a
>>RC print lasts over 100 years, like a fiber-based one does?  Last I was
>>aware (and that was over 10 years ago) RC prints had a life expectancy of
>>about 10 years.  Have they improved that much?
>
>Well I have plenty of 10 year old RC prints that disprove the 10 year
>life expectancy.  I also have some from high school that are almost 20
>years old that show no degradation as far as I can see.  I don't know
>what current life expectancy is, but my information is mostly from an
>article in Camera and Darkroom by A. Blaker within the last year.  I
>think he stated that life expectancy is the same for RC and FB papers.
>He claimed his information was from Kodak and other manufacturers and
>maybe some independent researchers.  I'll try to remember to look up the
>article for more details.
>
Has anyone seen any published accelerated aging tests which compare RC and
FB papers?  I personally have seen color film and paper age and fade, but
I have never seen a problem with a properly processed B&W RC print.  
Granted, there are differences in the appearance of RC and FB papers, and
one is free to choose on that basis.  At the risk of starting a religious
flame-war, I think that the "non-archival-ness" of RC paper is mostly
prejudice and folklore.  Differing opinions are welcome.

Ron Speirs, Evans & Sutherland Computer Corp., Salt Lake City, Utah


Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: campbell@mikec.ingr.com (Mike Campbell)
Subject: Canon AE-1 Program For Sale
Reply-To: campbell@mikec.b30.ingr.com
Organization: Intergraph Corporation
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 12:57:38 GMT

FORSALE:

	Canon AE-1 Program with case
	Canon 50mm f1.4-22 lens
	Skylight 1B (I think) filter
	Camera strap

This camera is in grat shape. It is still in use and has film in it. We are
selling it to recoup some of the cost of purchasing a new AF camera. It has
a brand new battery in it and takes excellent pictures.

I'm asking $175 for all of it and you pay the shipping.

I can be reached by day at the location below, or after 4:00 CST call me at
(205)351-1023.


==============================================================================
Mike Campbell                         Phone     : (205)730-3623
Customer Engineer                     Mail Path : (ingr)!b30!mikec!campbell
Intergraph Corp.                      Internet  : campbell@mikec.b30.ingr.com
Huntsville, AL 35894-0001             Fax       : (205)730-3300
                                      Mailstop  : GD3002
From: finn@isi.edu (Greg Finn)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: media permanence (was Re: photo-developing, specifically nudes)
Date: 19 Aug 92 17:24:38 GMT
Reply-To: finn@dalek.isi.edu (Greg Finn)
Organization: USC-Information Sciences Institute

In article <1992Aug19.155539.17331@clark.edu> gsnow@clark.edu (Gary Snow) writes:
>Hold it, are you trying to tell me that a B&W PRINT can out live its digital
>counter-part?  I don't think so.

	What digital storage technique has a successful 50+ year
history and is still being used on a significant scale?  I know of
none.  If you do, speak up.  CD storage, to pick the currently hot
technology, may or may not still be around in 50 years.  If you use
history as a guide, it won't be.  It won't do anyone any good to have
a stack of CDs with error-corrected codes if there are no longer any
readers made.  Our warehouse is chock-full of generations of old
digital storage technology.

	You may be right ... but to be right you are predicting a future
that stands in stark contrast to the past.
--
Gregory Finn	(310) 822-1511
Information Sciences Institute, Marina Del Rey, CA 90292
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: bbooth@x400gate.bnr.ca (Brad Booth)
Subject: Re: Grainy B&W film?
Originator: bbooth@bcrks6
Reply-To: bbooth@x400gate.bnr.ca (Brad Booth)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Ltd
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 18:25:53 GMT


In article <1992Aug14.164047.21429@newshost.unh.edu>, K_LEPA@unhh.unh.edu (Kristen   Lepa) writes:
> Is there a B&W film out there that is inherently grainy?  I know it
> would help if I got a very fast film, but I like to work with slower
> speeds.  When I had access to a darkroom, I just shook it up a lot, 
> and surprise! it came out just perfect!  Now I have to depend on a (ugh)
> lab.  Too bad the only thing I use B&W for is _nudes_...

I've found that I can create a grainer effect with B&W film by overexposing
it slightly (like one or two stops).  I use labs to process my film because
my darkroom doesn't cut out all the stray light.  I've found that it works
good for nudes and landscape shots.

> Can I ask them for "custom" setting do you think?

Try it.  I've usually had no problem requesting things from labs, but 
sometimes they will charge extra for it.  Worth the cost if it makes the
photo. :)


      __o       Brad Booth                |  
    _`\<,_      Bell-Northern Research    |  "He doesn't need a motive.
   (*)/ (*)     Ottawa, Ontario, Canada   |   He's a psychopath."
 ------------   bbooth@x400gate.bnr.ca    |  ... Tony Scalli, The Commish
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: DH02 <DH02@polytec1.polymtl.ca>
Subject: Re: polycarbonate camera bodies
Organization: Ecole Polytechnique de Montreal
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 21:18:18 GMT

In article <1992Aug18.111915.16586@sys.sweden.dg.com> robert@sys.sweden.dg.com (Robert Claeson) writes:
>
>I think that I was the person. I just thought that I should mention that a
>Canon EOS-1 is heavier than a Nikon F-4 even though the latter is reputed
>to contain more metal. Go figure.
>
>- Robert
The facts, from our very own Glen Porter's "AF Camera Feature List":

*Canon EOS1, body wt.: 30.4 oz (w/o batteries) - uses lithium batteries.
*Nikon F4S, body wt.: 45.1 oz (w/o batteries) - uses 6 AA batteries.
  (the F4 would be a couple of ounces lighter, and uses 4 AA batteries)

-Tamal Ghosh
 Departement de genie chimique
 Ecole Polytechnique de Montreal
From: jay@metran.UUCP (Jay Ts)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Grainy B&W film?
Date: 14 Aug 92 21:12:06 GMT
Organization: Metran Technology, Tampa, Florida

sog@craycos.com (Steve Gombosi) writes:
: In article <1992Aug14.164047.21429@newshost.unh.edu> K_LEPA@unhh.unh.edu (Kristen   Lepa) writes:
: >Is there a B&W film out there that is inherently grainy?  I know it
: >would help if I got a very fast film, but I like to work with slower
: >speeds.  
: 
: Hmmm...why not use really fast film and a neutral density filter?

The obvious (?) choice would be Kodak T-max P3200 pushed a bit.  Another
possibility is Tri-X fully developed in Dektol.  I tried that once.  It
is quite harsh.

How about using a color film?  You could still make B&W prints from it.
Maybe something like Ektar 1000.

Jay Ts
From: jyk50@quts.ccc.amdahl.com (  242  J Kretschmann III)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Photography in mountains.
Date: 14 Aug 92 04:10:03 GMT
Reply-To: jyk50@QUTS.ccc.amdahl.com

In article <1992Aug11.194826.2515@cbnewsm.cb.att.com> ka1gt@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (robert.m.atkins) writes:
>. If
>want to use a "UV" (1A, skylight) filter (other than to "protect" a lens). If
>things still look too blue then an 81A would warm things up even more.
>
Is the 1A/Skylight filter the same as a Haze filter?  Do they give the
same effect (removing blue haze/UV)?
From: tonya@hpldsla.sid.hp.com (Tony Arnerich)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Kodak Publications (was: Flourencent light question)
Date: 18 Aug 92 20:01:49 GMT
Organization: HP Scientific Instruments Division - Palo Alto, CA

gsnow@clark.edu (Gary Snow) writes:

> In article <226@metran.UUCP> jay@metran.UUCP (Jay Ts) writes:
> > ...
> >Discharge Lamps.  Call Kodak at 1-800-242-2424.

> Does anyone have a list of Publications by Kodak ...

Call Kodak at the number above (presumably) and they can tell you about
their List of Publications.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: hchong@netcom.com (Hoi Chong)
Subject: F4s, SB-24, what gives? 
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 92 06:41:15 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 

Well, a long time ago I had a (cheap) Fujica ST801 with a Vivitar 285.
*Every* picture I took at a large birthday party was great!

It has a a while (OK, several years) since I did a party type session
with flash.  I have been testing (more than 5 36-frame rolls) the
mentioned combination, even spend a couple hundreds on bounce accessories
like pocket bouncer, 80/20, big bounce, soft box, etc.  Even tried 
professional film the last time.  I am still not happy.

What gives?

I tried matrix fill-flash, and than TTL spot metering, etc (used the 
AF/AE lock button quite a bit).  The pictures with spot metering were
better -- about 75% turned out to meet my standard (improved from previous
25%?).  Matrix fill tend to over-expose, and I did not know I was doing
fill-flash (man-head symbol not flashing).  Of course, all the time the
camera is set at Manual (X-sync). 

What gives?

The (HOVE) manual said that matrix metering flash may come out over-exposed
due to bad printing for color negative.  I cannot afford pro lab, so changing
lab is not an affordable solution. 

Please note that I have not done serious flash photography for a long time,
so if I sounded too picky, it is due to ignorance.  Feel free to say so.

Do we have to live with "front person too white while back person 2 feet back
too dark" without going to ceiling bounce (not available)? 

What setting should I set my camera at?  M?  Aperture priority?  Shutter
priority?  Program?

This is for a indoor party, ceiling sometimes not available deal.  Please
give your experience with F4s/SB-24.  Thanks in advance.  

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: alix@indetech.com (Alexandria North)
Subject: Multiple SB-24 setups, your experiences 
Organization: Independence Technologies, Inc. Fremont, CA
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 22:16:13 GMT


I'd like to hear from people who have used multiple SB-24 speedlights
with their Nikon cameras for "studio" lighting.

I have a Nikon 8008s and a single SB-24. I want to do some portrait 
and other work that requires multiple lights. I know I want to use 
electronic flash, but I can't afford the White Lightning units (with 
modeling lights) that I aspire to. I may be able to get two SB-24s, 
though, and the cords necessary to slave them and such.

What I'd like to know is, if you are using multiple SB-24s, how do 
you like this setup? Are you happy? Does it limit you in any way?
What kinds of photography have you done with this setup? Do you 
think this solution would be a valid alternative, maybe not long-term, 
to more expensive electronic flash systems designed for studio work? 

I know right now that I simply can't afford two studio lights of the 
quality I prefer, and it would be a long time before I could afford 
a second if I bought only one. I'm trying to gauge whether or not it 
would be worthwhile for me to spend a year or so (time flies) using 
the SB-24 alternative, and investing in reflectors and such in the 
meantime.

Thanks!

Alexandria
-- 
-----------------------------------------------------------
"Babies, babies, babies. Why did God make so many babies?
 But no, God didn't make them. Stupid people made them."
      -- Margaret Mitchell, Gone With The Wind
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: accwai@math.uwaterloo.ca (Andy Wai)
Subject: Re: More 4x5 questions
Organization: Math Faculty Computing Facility, University of Waterloo
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 21:51:59 GMT

In article <1992Aug17.173035.20845@beaver.cs.washington.edu> franz@cs.washington.edu (Franz G. Amador) writes:
>[...]
>I currently have only one film holder, so now'd be the idea time to
>get into the Mido system.

A friend and I had a chance to examine the system up close last
week.  My impression was that the thin holders are rather fragile
looking and the system seems to depend on lots of plastic parts
fitting delicately together.  My main worry would be how well it
would all work after sweating it out in the field for a while.
Now I work primarily in studio so the Mido is of minimal interest
to me, but my friend is a landscape person and he had rather high
hopes for the system.  After looking at the thing though, he said
he'll probably go back and get more Riteway instead.  So before
you put your money down, it's a good idea to check the system out
thoroughly in person.  (Just my $.02 of course, as usual...)

Andy Wai
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jmb5b@faraday.clas.Virginia.EDU (John M. Bozeman)
Subject: Re: The quality of Nikon "E" lenses?
Organization: University of Virginia
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1992 03:49:56 GMT

>contain that famous Nikon glass. It depends on the lens. Some, like the standard
>50 mm aren't that great but there are some others that are very sharp. You will
>find that they also don't all have that 'Nikon feel' to them. 

OK, so which ones are the good ones, and which ones are the lemons?  A 
prior post said, as I recall, that the 75-150 was excellent, the 70-210
less so; the 50mm good, the 35 not so hot.  What have others experienced?

                John
From: liang@saul.cis.upenn.edu (Chuck Liang)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: questions concerning old cameras
Date: 19 Aug 92 18:08:30 GMT
Article-I.D.: netnews.86553
Organization: University of Pennsylvania


  What are the differences between M, X, and Fp synch?

  What in the world was an "extinction meter"?


  Also, how can you tell if your hand-held meter uses Cds or silicon?
(I have a sekonic auto-leader l-188).


  Many thanks for informed reponses.




  
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: feldman@hal9k.cxo.dec.com (james feldman)
Subject: Re: Suppliers of Square Frames
Reply-To: feldman@hal9k.cxo.dec.com (james feldman)
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 22:00:03 GMT

In article <18985@nntp_server.ems.cdc.com>, mtoms@ems.cdc.com (Mark Toms) writes:
|>I was wondering if anyone knows of a supplier that sells square frames
|>from stock.  I shoot 120 format (Hasselblad) and often want my shots
|>enlarged without cropping to a rectangular format.  I am trying to avoid
|>the expense of using a custom framing shop.
Try a hobby/craft store.  They may sell aluminum frame in pairs.  I.E. to make
a 14x18 frame I would buy one 14" package containing 2 pieces, and one 18"
package.  You would just buy 2 packages of the same length.  You might have to
have them cut the glass and mat special, though.  Alternatively, Shutterbug
lists companies that sell the same stuff mailorder.  A local glass company can
cut the the glass, and you could cut your own mats.
--
jimf
My opinions and ideas are, in fact, not mine at all, but the property of
Digital Equipment Corp. (provided they relate to computers).  Opinions I may
have concerning other subjects are not really mine either, but are the product
of the environment I have been exposed to.  Thus, I am totally without
responsibility for anything I may say or do. 
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: hchong@netcom.com (Hoi Chong)
Subject: Air Show 
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 92 15:13:00 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 

Nikkor 80-200/2.8 ED AF or Sigma 400/5.6 APO AF?
Film ISO 100, 400, or 1000 (or 1600)?

Thanks.  
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: drraymon@watdragon.uwaterloo.ca (Darrell Raymond)
Subject: Re: Enlarger vs. Slide Projector
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 02:01:47 GMT

In article <1992Aug13.151921.5909@m.cs.uiuc.edu>, hasker@m.cs.uiuc.edu (Rob Hasker) writes:
> drraymon@watdragon.uwaterloo.ca (Darrell Raymond) writes:
> 
> >In article <1992Aug12.184136.5162@midway.uchicago.edu>, hasn@midway.uchicago.edu (Sheheryar Hasnain) writes:
> >> This is probably sound silly, but what does an enlarger do that a slide 
> >> projector can't.  Basically, what difference does it make whether one uses 
> >> a slide projector versus an enlarger.  They both project images don't they?
> >> Sheheryar
> >
> >  It does sound silly.
> 
> I don't see this as a silly question at all.  Especially given the large
> number of people who flip their enlarger on the side an project onto a 
> wall so that they can get very large enlargements.  

  What does that have to do with the comparison?  Now if you had said 
that people used slide projectors to make big enlargements, or that a 
large number of people show their slides to their friends via flipped
enlargers, then I might agree that there was less difference.  (oh,
wait a minute, I see your point - it's that the prints people get with
wall enlargements are just about as lousy as the results they get with 
their slide projectors. This is probably true.)

> All of your differences
> boil down to the fact that slide projectors shave corners to get the
> maximum light output possible for short durations.  

  Naah.  First, shaving corners (which I admit many projectors do) is 
not mandatory - the point is that the two devices are optimized for
different tasks.  Second, some of my differences had nothing to do 
with light output (screen alignment, filters, slide handling features).
Third, I don't see that much difference in the duration of slide
presentation and that of negative exposure, and in fact I typically
show slides for longer (15-45 s) than I expose negatives for printing
(8-20 s).

> So the question is,
> why can't we make slide projectors with the precision of enlargers?  

  This is a different question.  But still, it misses the point.  A 
top-end Leica slide projector is made very precisely, and with very 
good optics, but it isn't a Leica enlarger. The two devices simply 
have different end uses in mind - one is designed to project an image 
directly on to photographic paper, and the other is designed to project
a image to be reflected to the human retina.  Saying "they both project"
is like saying that pinholes and Sonnars "both image".  

-Darrell.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jchen@flash.bellcore.com (Jason Chen)
Subject: Re: REPOST: AF Camera feature list
Reply-To: jchen@flash.UUCP (Jason Chen)
Organization: Bellcore, Morristown NJ
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 92 16:20:41 GMT

One feature I wish the feature list has is the "metered manual" feature.
My previous Pentax Super Program would tell me how many stops I was off
in manual mode, while my current 630 doesn't provide any information other
than the settings I choose. 

I found "metered manual" to be a great convenience.

C. Jason Chen 
jchen@flash.bellcore.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: yen@epcot.spdc.ti.com (Tony Yen)
Subject: Re: Cambridge.
Organization: TI Semiconductor Process and Design Center
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 23:15:44 GMT

I agree. A few weeks ago I tried to order a focus screen for my newly
bought Canon F-1. The salesman gave me the price. It was a lot higher
than other places in NTC. So I said I would have to look for another
place ( I didn't even use the 800 number on this one because I was 
going to ask them prices of the items that I did not intend to order).
When he heard this, he started to come down in price, much like street
vendors in some foreign countries. In 10 seconds his price had fallen 
by twenty dollars! This was very annoying and I did not buy the 
focus screen from Cambridge. If their store policy is to allow bargaining,
it is a very sleazy store in the mail order business. 




Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: sc6803998@ntuvax.ntu.ac.sg
Subject: Techniques for taking swimsuit models?
Organization: Nanyang Technological University - Singapore
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 05:58:08 GMT

Hi all photo gurus,

	I some how have gotten a friend to model for me in a swimsuit! 8)
Can you guys(girls) out there suggest some good techniques for taking
girls in swimsuits? 
	I am using a manual SLR Fujica camara (old) with a some daylight
filters and have a couple of other filters. So thanks in advance for any
suggestions.

Michael Van Der Beek
Nanyang Technological Univeristy.