HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: bjs@RUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Barry Sherman)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Need help getting dark B&W sky
Date: 14 Dec 92 21:08:50 GMT
Reply-To: bjs@RUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Barry Sherman)
Followup-To: rec.photo
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

John Sparks writes:

>Well, I don't know about "Moon and Half Dome", but this summer at a John
>Sexton workshop, he had some origional Ansel Adams prints including things
>like straight prints and final prints of such well known images as 
>"Moon Rise Hernandez" and "Clearing Winter Storm" and the amount of sky
>burning took me completely by surprise (the straight prints had basicly 
>white skys with almost no detail).  

Within the last year the Ansel Adams Gallery in San Francisco had an 
exhibit in honor of the 50th anniversary of the taking of Moonrise, Hernandez.
Among the pictures displayed were several different versions of the picture
itself, printed at different times in Adam's career.  The earlier ones had
very light skies.  The latest had the inky sky that I'd been familiar with.
Both looked perfectly normal with no detectable manipulations present, as
is to be expected with a printer of Adam's caliber.  Of course, no manipulation
should ever be detectable, regardless of who does it.  

Adam's book _The Print_ also shows an unmanipulated version of "Clearing 
Winter Storm" which, as John says, has a largely featureless sky.  At least 
certainly not as dramatic as in the final print.

BTW - there were quite a few amusing prints in the "Moonrise" anniversary
exhibition.  There was the one which featured a darkened field with 
a person bent over mooning the camera, also titled, if I remember correctly,
"Moonrise".  And there was one from John Sexton titled "No Moonrise, Hernandez
New Mexico".  This was a print identical to the "standard", later years
Adam's print only with the moon missing from it.  Nice visual pun.

Barry
--


|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Barry Sherman, Amdahl Corp. | "It's much easier to go to exotic places and | 
| bjs@uts.ccc.amdahl.com      |  capture spectacular scenes than to take a   |
|                             |  spectacular picture of a really boring      |
|                             |  green pepper". - Anthony Tse                |
|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Amdahl, being a corporation, is a legal fiction.  Therefore it is incapable|
| of holding, let alone expressing, opinions.  Unfortunately, this has been  |
| said of me as well. (I.e.  My statments are mine, not Amdahl's.)           |
|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: wjabi@libra.arch.umich.edu (Wassim M. Jabi)
Subject: WANTED: New/Used Zuiko lens for Olympus OM-4
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 92 20:38:41 EST
Organization: The University of Michigan, Ann Arbor
Reply-To: wjabi@libra.arch.umich.edu
Distribution: usa

Hi:
I'm looking for a Zuiko lens for my Olympus OM-4
Here is what I need it for:

Taking pictures from computer screens
Using it on a copy stand (photographs froms books)
Architectural photography (medium to wide angle, I don't need shift)

I believe a 35-105 Zoom with Macro is ideal. I was told Olympus
does not make those anymore. Please e-mail me if you have one
for sale or if you know how I can get one. Thank you.
--
Wassim M. Jabi                            (313) 936-0229
Doctoral Program in Architecture, University of Michigan
2000 Bonisteel Boulevard  Ann Arbor  Michigan 48105-2313
wjabi@libra.arch.umich.edu             NeXTMail-friendly
From: antonsen@hpcndaw.CND.HP.COM (Tim Antonsen)
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 23:50:20 GMT
Subject: Re: Need help getting dark B&W sky
Organization: HP Network and System Management Division
Newsgroups: rec.photo

The sky in the Sierras is a remarkably deep blue. The sky in Texas is, I'm
sorry to say, not the same. This probably explains your problem. Filters are
unlikely to solve it. You could try infrared film (properly filtered) for
*reeeeealy* black sky, but you probably don't want its other characteristics.

--Tim
From: supplies@sklib.usask.ca
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Attaching filter swatch sample to SB-24
Date: 16 DEC 92 17:51:59 GMT
Organization: University of Saskatchewan
NNTP-Posting-Host: sklib.usask.ca

Does anyone know a good safe way of attaching a filter from a swatch
book to the flash head?
The Lee filter swatches are exactly the width of the SB-24  and just a little
longer.
Can I just tape them on? What about the heat generated by the flash?
I don't want melted gel/tape stuck to my flash.
Any suggestions?
D.B.
From: browner@rm1.interlan.com (Michael Browner)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Help with Minolta 8000i (again)
Date: 17 Dec 92 19:08:39 GMT
Organization: Racal-Milgo, Sunrise, Florida

In article <BzE277.JLr@inews.Intel.COM>, rodgers@ismdqa.intel.com (Mike Rodgers ~) writes:
|> In article <1992Dec16.085234.9816@leland.Stanford.EDU> ianchan@leland.Stanford.EDU (Ian Hin Yun Chan) writes:
|> >Thanks for responding about the exposure icon-thing. But now I've noticed that
|> >the "MODE" and the button just beside it, when pressed together changes s
|> >*something* from M to ME, and this time I'm absolutely clueless as to what's
|> >going on. So what_is_ going on?
|> >- Ian
|> 
|> Given that Minolta, along with other SLR manufacturers, have decided
|> to put a zillion useless beels and whistles on their AF bodies along
|> with the 8 to 10 actually useful features, you're never gonna get by
|> asking the net every time you find a new button or feature on your 8000i.
|> Call around to your local photo stores like Keeble and Shucat in Palo
|> Alto or Ewert's in Santa Clara or Gasser's in SF or Alph in Oakland or
|> Reed's in Walnut Creek and find somebody with an 8000i still in stock.
|> Ask them if you can go down and photcopy their 8000i manual in the store.
|> It shouldn't be too difficult to arrange and them you can play with
|> all the software to find those 8 to 10 features of value.  I did the
|> same thing when I bought my 8000i in Japan two years ago (after 
|> destroying another body during the trip) and only had a Japanese
|> manual when I got back to the US.  I've long since forgotton how to
|> use all the other features or where I left the photcopied manual ...
|> 
|> Good luck and MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!
|> 
|> Mike Rodgers

Or why not just call Minolta @ 201-825-4000, and ask them to send you an 
instruction book.  It costs $3.00 and you don't have to pay in advance.

I bought a 5200i at a dealer, no manual, called them up and got one fairly
quickly.

Michael B.
-- 
Michael Browner     		browner@sun1.interlan.com or
(305) 846-6848                  browner@rd1.interlan.com
Racal-Milgo, MS E-112, 
P.O.Box 407044, Ft Lauderdale, FL 33340  
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: gumby@spock.uucp (Danny Richman)
Subject: I Hate Grainy Pictures
Keywords: HELP
Organization: Choate Rosemary Hall
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1992 14:09:10 GMT

	I have recently been assigned to take indoor sports BW pictures for my
school newspaper.  It's definitely a change of pace from the outdoor pictures 
of fall sports which I take with 400 ASA Tri-x.  I need to take pictures at a 
1/1000 sec. shutter speed so that the sports pictures are frozen, not blurred.
I decided that it was necessary to use 3200 ASA T-Max due to the low light 
conditions, but I am at my last stop and can't afford to push the film at all.
When I enlarge the pictures I get a lot of grain.  Well, sure I expected it, 
but isn't there anything I can do????  Is there any fine grain Black and White
films out there????  Can't anyone help me????

Thanks in advance...

				-Dan

-- 
                                              gumby@choate.edu

 -My name's Gumby damnit! Not Gum! It's Gumby!
Organization: Arizona State University
Date: Monday, 14 Dec 1992 12:43:11 MST
From: <KAGHV@ASUACAD.BITNET>
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Need help with Canon AE-1 problem...


The small silver button is for backlighting compensation.  I believe it opens
the lens up 1 1/2 stops.  The black slide is used to preview depth of field.  I
would have to get my old AE-1 out to remember how to use it.  The red 'M' for
manual should go away when the meter is turned off (locked).  And yes, the
button on top is a battery check.
From: craig@ec.uwa.oz.au (Craig Richmond - division)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Dumb Photographers
Date: 15 Dec 1992 07:53:54 GMT
Organization: The University of Western Australia
NNTP-Posting-Host: decel.ecel.uwa.edu.au

mcovingt@aisun3.ai.uga.edu (Michael Covington) writes:

>In article <1992Dec7.203046.7824@cs.UAlberta.CA> rodney@cs.UAlberta.CA (Rodney Gitzel) writes:
>>In article <1992Dec7.005857.22916@umr.edu>, tonyp@mcs213a.cs.umr.edu (Tony Phillips) writes:
>>> 
>>> Go to St. Louis some time and look up to the top of the Gateway Arch at night.
>>> You'll see flash-bulbs poppin' multitudenously.  For the folks that don't 
>>> know it, the Gateway Arch is 630 feet tall.
>>
>>I was at Mt. Rushmore several years ago and took in the nightly
>> turning-on-of-the-floodlights show.  The park people expressly
>> told people that George's nose is a little too far away for
>> a flash to help.  That detered no one....

>I'm told that with some cameras, the flash insists on firing when it's dark
>and you don't have any choice in the matter.

Every year a local radio station holds a fireworks show and has a
competition for the best photo of the fireworks.  Now of course, every man
and his dog is out there with a camera to try and win themselves a new car
or something or other.

When a big burst of fireworks goes off up in the sky, the view that can be
seen of all the camera flashes going off on the shore (show is held over a
big river in front of Perth) is probably more impressive than the fireworks
themselves.

Craig
--
Craig Richmond.  Computer Officer -  Dept of Economics (morning) 380 3860
  University of Western Australia    Dept of Education (afternoon)
craig@ecel.uwa.edu.au Dvorak Keyboards RULE!  "Messes are only acceptable
if users make them.  Applications aren't allowed this freedom" I.M.VI 2-4
From: rsmith@pearl.tufts.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: color change w/exposure change: Why?
Date: 10 Dec 92 20:51:26 GMT
Organization: Tufts University - Medford, MA

I've got a question about some photos I recently took.  It was a foggy night
in Cambridge, and I went out to take some long-exposure shots in the fog.
I used Eastman 5296 (this is an ISO 400 color print film, process ECN-2),
fairly wide aperature (f 3.5 or 4) and exposures bracketed from 1/2 sec to
16 seconds (on a tripod, of course).  I got the prints back and, as expected,
the shorter exposures are underexposed, with a greenish-yellow sickly cast
to the light.  The longer exposures are brighter, of course, but now the light
(and especially the sky) has a reddish-orange cast to it.  Why should a change
in exposure alter the color balance like that?  I'm not too good at judging
color from the negatives, so I can't even be sure it's the film; it could
be the print-making.  Any ideas out there?

					--Rod Smith
					  RSMITH@PEARL.TUFTS.EDU
From: sdpage@andersen.co.uk (Stephen Page)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: How to make screen shots
Date: 13 Dec 92 18:26:51 GMT
Organization: Andersen Consulting (UK Practice)

robertw@informix.com (Robert Weinberg) writes:
>> In article <1992Dec3.103109.1352@newsserver.rrzn.uni-hannover.de>  
>andreas@appel012.hydromech.uni-hannover.de () writes:
>> >I have to do some photos directly from the computer screen. Does anyone
>> >has some advices? Which film?

>We had a guy over here taking screen shots for a brochure. He made a virtual tent  
>of black fabric around the computer screen and camera to eliminate screen  
>reflection.

Good idea, if you can get it sorted out. Reflections are very hard to
get rid of - I usually take screen shots late at night with all the building
lights turned off.  Another advantage of killing the light is that the 
plastic bit around the screen doesn't show up on the film.

I bought a focussing screen with a cross-hatch pattern to help get the
camera level. This is harder than it might seem when photographing a 
largely-black screen in a blacked-out room.

See the FAQ for other suggestions.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: phr@telebit.com (Paul Rubin)
Subject: Re: N90 + Tamron 90/2.5 = kaput!
Organization: Telebit Corporation; Sunnyvale, CA, USA
Date: 17 Dec 92 22:23:18

    [Story about Tamron lens not working on N90]

    Of course, the Nikon rep. was very happy about this!.  Has anybody had
    similar problems with a non-Nikon lens in the N90?

Why was the Nikon guy happy?
Sounds to me like a good reason not to buy an N90.

FM2 Forever!
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: hsong@ardour.bellcore.com (Hugh)
Subject: Bayonet mount strength of Canon EOS10s and the rest
Reply-To: hsong@ardour.bellcore.com (G. Hugh Song)
Organization: ...
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 92 23:14:55 GMT


irving@Happy-Man.com (Irving_Wolfe) once wrote:
>Subject: Re: advice wanted on the Pentax PZ1 vs the Canon EOS 10s
>Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 14:43:56 GMT
>I have two Canon EOS-10s bodies and have been seriously
>disappointed in their apparent flimsiness.  The lens mount is a
>metal "ring" seated into the plastic body by friction-fit only, it
>would appear, and even moderate accidental side-pressure on a long
>lens is enough to disturb the fit and cause the lens mount to no
>longer be parallel to the film plane.
>
>This happened to me with each body.  In one case, the movement was
>very small and I was able to fix it by brute force in the opposite
>direction.  In the other case, I sent the body in for repair and
>Canon refused to honor the warranty (which was still in effect) on
>the theory that the camera had been abused.  I don't believe that a
>properly designed, robust camera would have suffered any ill effect
>from this level of "abuse" which was really only normal use.
>
>Thus, not only is the EOS-10s designed too lightly to be a sensible
>choice, in my opinion, but also it suffers from an aggressively
>anti-consumer attitude on Canon's part; they charged me roughly
>$100 for repair of that body, which had only cost 3.5 times that
>much new.
>
>So buy the Pentax!  I used to have a Pentax ES-II and it was a
>wonderful camera.
>-- 
> Irving_Wolfe@Happy-Man.com      Happy Man Corp. 206/463-9399 x101

Are other EOS bodies, Elan, A2, 630 any better than 10s in this respect?
Or are they all the same?

Thanks

	Hugh
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au
Subject: Re: grain
Organization: Curtin University of Technology
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1992 15:58:48 GMT

In article <1992Dec13.023018.18617@athena.cs.uga.edu>, mcovingt@aisun3.ai.uga.edu (Michael Covington) writes:
> In article <1992Dec13.043828.1@cc.curtin.edu.au> zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au writes:
>>In article <1g647mINN78m@crcnis1.unl.edu>, kting@cse.unl.edu (Kea Ting) writes:
...
>>Ah, an easy one!! Kodak Recording 2475. Double the grain, or your money back.
> 
> My understanding is that that film was discontinued in the USA something
> like five years ago.  Apparently it's still clinging to life in England
> and Australia...
> 

Well, its still in the Kodak catalogue, and 2 places I was in Fri had it in
the fridge. Maybe its become a SO in its twilite years... :-)

~Paul

From: peterd@hpgrla.gr.hp.com (Peter Davidoff)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 21:39:14 GMT
Subject: Re: Soft Focus Filters For Portraits
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Greeley, CO
Newsgroups: rec.photo

Soft Focus
^^^^^^^^^^

Diffusion of an image at the printing state has not
been considered "appropriate" in past photographic
literature.  Diffusion of dark into light was considered
unnatural.  (so what is natural?)

For diffusion effects I've often read that the panty-hose
material over the lens was a favorite method as long ago
as 70 years (tho the materials have changed).  Try both
light and dark materials in both high key and low key
lighting.

The older portrait lenses were either a single positive lens
or an achromat (a lens whre two wavelenghts are brought
togehter) under corrected for spherical aberration.  "such
a lens produces a diffused image in which the highlights are
surrounded by a halo.  The effect is quite different from a
sharp lens out-of-focus, or the diffusion produced by
diffusing materials placed before the lens."  [from Neblette's
book, _Photographic Lenses_, not a terrifically good book,
btw].

I've an old Graff Variable Focus lens mounted on an old packard
shutter.  Got it for $10.  I can dial-in the amount of shperical
aberration by shifting the front lens backwards and forwards.
The affectation can alsobe changed by the f-stop.  I've only
just started experimenting with it for fum and carbon
printing.  Will report successes sometime later

Peter Davidoff
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: hasker@cs.uiuc.edu (Rob Hasker)
Subject: Re: Minolta or Canon?
Keywords: Which one?
Organization: University of Illinois, Dept. of Comp. Sci., Urbana, IL
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 16:30:03 GMT

michael9@odie.cs.mun.ca (Michael Sullivan) writes:


>[ The story thus far - may old Pratica has bit the bucket, so I need a new
>camera, but I don't want to give up my Tamron 70-210 zoom.  Many people
>have recommended a Pentax K1000 as a replacement.]
>
>I've recently been thinking about purchasing either a Minolta Maxxum 3xi, 
>or a Canon EOS Rebel S-11.

Do you realize you'll have to give up the Tamron 70-210 zoom if you switch
to an AF camera like the Maxxum or Rebel?

Don't forget there are other manual-focus cameras out there which will give
you the sort of control you had with the K1000.  Some of them might even be
cheaper!  Virtually all the makers still have MF cameras that will be as
reliable as your Pratica was (or should have been).

Rob
From: russell@Apple.COM (Russell Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: N90 + Tamron 90/2.5 = kaput!
Date: 18 Dec 92 15:47:28 GMT
Organization: Apple Computer Inc, Cupertino, CA

In article <23084@venera.isi.edu> finn@dalek.isi.edu (Greg Finn) writes:
>In article <4fA=YQS00Uh_02iplc@andrew.cmu.edu> lc0v+@andrew.cmu.edu (Luis Abdon Cifuentes) writes:
>>I asked to try the
>>Tamron AF 90/2.5 macro lens in the N90. They guy reluctantly put it on
>>the N90, and guess what, the N90 died!. No lcd display,  nothing.
>
>	This is a general problem with software and electronic
>compatability.  Nikon knows what Nikon designed.  Tamron, Vivitar, and
>Sigma do not know that as precisely.  They attempt to be compatible.

In at least some cases, the independent lens maker pays a hefty 
license fee to the camera maker for the right to design lenses with
the camera maker's mount. For instance, early Sigma lenses for the
Maxxum were designed without a license from Minolta. Minolta sued (for
patent infringement) and won; Sigma bought a license. Sigma's early 
lenses worked on the 5000/7000/9000, but not the 7000i. Sigma replaced 
ROM chips in the lenses free; their lenses now work on xi series cameras too.

If a Tamron lens doesn't work on a Nikon N90, it means one of 2
things:
1. Nikon doesn't license their mount. Independents (and their customers)
   take the luck of the draw as far as future compatibility.
2. Nikon, like Minolta and Canon, licenses their mount. Either
   Tamron didn't follow the interface spec completely, or Nikon 
   didn't divulge the entire interface spec to its licensees. Or
   perhaps the mount is licensed but doesn't include guarantees
   of future compatibility ("Nikon corporation reserves the right to
   screw-mount its licensees and their customers at any time in
   the future" :-) )

Anybody know if the Nikon mount is licensed?
-- 
Russell Williams
Not speaking for Apple Computer
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: samm@panix.com (Sam Merrell)
Subject: Re: Question on Photo-CD and CD-ROM
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1992 20:11:56 GMT
Distribution: rec.photo
Organization: PANIX Public Access Unix, NYC

In <1992Dec12.031738.22513@eskimo.com> dancook@eskimo.com (Daniel Cook) writes:
---------------------

>The question is
>this:  instead of plopping down $500 for Kodak's combination
>CD/Photo-CD player along with Photo-CD development charges,
>is there software available so that persons with a IBM-clone
>PC can read a Kodak Photo-CD if they have a CD-ROM player
>hooked to the computer already?
>1.) If so, what is the name(s) of the available software.

Photo Access, from Kodak.

>2.) If no, is there software planned for the future to do this,
>    or has Kodak set the Photo-CD standard somehow that only
>    commercially-produced Photo-CD players will be able to read
>    the discs?

The standard is XA, mode 2 MultiSession compliant CD-ROM drives, and
associated software drivers. Not a lot of 'em on the market yet, but
Toshiba has one, the XM3301. If you call Liuski's (1-900-989-4600), 
you can get internal or external kits.  Toshiba XM-3300 drives can
be upgraded, the 3200's can't.

Sam Merrell.
Newsgroups: rec.photo,misc.consumers
From: packer@amarna.gsfc.nasa.gov (Charles Packer)
Subject: Re: Wanted: Experiences with Mail Order Film Processors
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.4-b1  
Organization: Dept. of Independence
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 11:39:00 GMT

In article <1992Dec16.095953.25287@news.Hawaii.Edu>, joe@montebello.soest.hawaii.edu writes...
>With a name like "skrud land" they have to be good! 


In fact, Consumer Reports, in August 1991, gave them their highest
rating in a group of seven mail-order labs they investigated.
From: collum@paradise1.ncd.com (Jim Collum)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: i give film 'bout 7-1
Date: 18 Dec 92 20:58:51 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: Network Computing Devices, Mt. View, CA, USA

In article <1992Dec11.4228.29451@dosgate>, rick.sproule@canrem.com (rick sproule) writes:
|> 
|> AS>| If you want snapshot quality then you'll be quite happy
|> AS>| with the electronic imaging that will be available to the
|> AS>| masses in the next decade or so.
|> 
|> AS>Absolutely. Photo CD proves the point. A product like this could
|> AS>never have been launched in a quality-conscious marketplace. The
|> AS>Sony machine that spits out prints of video frames is another
|> AS>example. Wretched quality, but gee-whiz convenience!
|> 
|> AS>I'd LOVE to be able to scan B&W negs into my Mac, manipulate them
|> AS>in PhotoShop, then send the files to a super-hi-res imagesetter.
|> AS>This is possible now, but the quality isn't there yet.
|>                              ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
|> 
|> Just curious, what is the quality your looking for?  Files produced by 
|> Photo CD are in the 18MB range which I was under the impression is more 
|> than adequate for most desktop publishing needs.                   
|> 

I do a lot of 4x5 work. I've just recently started using my Mac to retouch my images.  I usually make Cibachrome prints (16x20 normal, but sometimes 20x24 and larger).  I have my transparencies scanned with a drum scanner (Howtek d4000 pmt) at a local scanning service.The result is usually a 40-60Mb file.  I use Photoshop to retouch. Get rid of all black specks, hairs, scratches. I then adjust the contrast, color balance/mood and give the file back to the scanning firm.  They then use a film recorder (Mana

gement Graphics Solitaire) to print back on 4x5 trasparency.  You can examine the original and retouched with a 10x loupe and not see any difference.  You can make a 20x24 Ciba print, hang them next to each other, and still not tell the difference (except for the fact the the retouched image is probably sharper and cleaner.  The price for scanning is $60.00.  The price for film recording is $40-$50.  This is probably a bit steep for most photographers, but if you sell your images (fine art, stock, etc), th

en this is probably affordable.  You also have the benifit of having a backup copy of your image for a lot longer than the transparency will be around.  If the technology starts changing, then you can have it transferred to the new storage technology, with no loss of image quality.  If you've never tried Photoshop before, you'll be amazed at how easy it is to retouch and adjust color/contrast.