HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: bruceb@mpd.tandem.com (Bruce Burden)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Telephoto zoom lens recommendations wanted
Date: 29 Sep 92 19:12:33 GMT
Organization: Tandem Computers (MPD) Austin, TX

In article <1992Sep28.211109.615@houston.dolphin.com> norm@dolphin.com writes:
>
>I am also considering which way to go telephoto for my Minolta 8000i, and  
>would appreciate recommendations for a "bang for the buck" decision (using  
>B&H prices) verses:
>
>	Sigma 75-300 f/4.5-5.6 APO, $260  (or "DL" at $170)
>	Tokina 75-300 f/4.5-5.6, $200
>	Minolta 70-210i f/3.5-4.5, $205  (I have a Minolta i camera)
>	Tokina 80-200 f/2.8 APO, $510  ($440 at Abe's of Maine)
>
	I would recommend that you get a zoom out to 300mm. I had an
    80-200, and would up getting a 60-300 as the 80-200 just wasn't
    "long enough", especially at the zoo.

	The only complaint I have with the Tokina 80-200 APO is the
    tripod rotating ring has small thumb screw, which makes it somewhat
    difficult to tighten/losen.
>
>On a related point, I have a Minolta 28-85i f/3.5-4.5 which I have been  
>pleased with so far, but I am getting more serious about my photography  
>and wonder if I should forgo the "ease of framing" that the zoom lens  
>affords and go with prime lenses.
>
	What size enlargements are you going to? Do you plan on selling
    your work? If the answer is greater than 8x10 and yes, you might
    want to get prime lenses. Otherwise, there is probably not enough
    difference to worry about getting prime lenses, unless you need the
    extra light capability.
>
>If prime is the way to go, which lenses should I purchase, in what order,  
>as money permits, a 180, 500, then a 300? 
>
	You should get the lenses as your needs dictate.
>
>					    And how much should I rely on a  
>1.4x converter, understanding that I lose a stop of light?  Does picture  
>sharpness go down the toilet?  Will I need to stay >= f/8 to make up for  
>the converter's vignetting, or is it futile?
>
	This depends on the converter. The Minolta converters are matched
    to the Minolta APO lenses, and I can't speak about converters from other
    companies.




								Bruce



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  Bruce Burden
  bruceb@mpd.tandem.com
  Tandem Computers Inc.
From: bnrmtl!parrot@larry.mcrcim.mcgill.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Shopping Lenses in Miami
Date: 28 Sep 92 20:41:58 GMT
Organization: Bell Northern Research Montreal, Canada.

Hi!

I'm going to Miami soon, and I want to know if there are some good 
places where I could buy Canon lenses. Basically I'm looking
for a 28-80m zoom for my Canon EOS Rebel.

Thank.

Benoit.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
This is my first try at POSTing, so could you try to reply just
to make sure I am reachable!
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: ghee@vision.larc.nasa.gov (Terry A. Ghee)
Subject: Re: Anyone using the Pentax P30N/P30T
Organization: NASA Langley Research Center, Hampton, VA  USA
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 12:54:47 GMT

I own an X-9 (and an old XG-9),  The camera has more 
plastic in the manfacture than my old XG-9 but has the 
ability to do metered manual and an auto exposure lock
which I've used quite a bit with nice results.  I also
own a Minolta 100-300mm 5.6 lens  (which I'm still
putting through its paces... not quite used longer
focal length photography and the finer focusing
margin of error).

Anyway, I prefer the non-AF cameras, guess I'm a
dinosaur!
From: andyc@hplsla.hp.com (Andy Cassino)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Benders and Technikardans and other arcana (Re: view cameras in foul weather)
Date: 23 Sep 92 16:38:49 GMT
Article-I.D.: hplsla.5360805
Organization: HP Lake Stevens, WA

philg@zurich.ai.mit.edu (Philip Greenspun) writes:

> Has nobody out there ever used a Beattie 4x5 ground glass?

Yes, but not very much. I ordered one once for a Horseman camera. I tried it
for a day and decided it didn't help very much compared to the OEM ground
glass and Fresnel screen. Further, I was very put off by the low quality 
grid - it was painted on, not etched like the original ground glass, and 
the lines were annoyingly fat and splattered - and it was put on in a 
1/2" grid rather than a centimeter grid - that also bugged the heck out 
of me. I returned it.

Since then I've used a Linhoff Super Screen and a Brightscreen in my Mamiya
645, and both are retired. Enough people like these things so I won't say
they are a scam, but I don't find they help me very much!

    %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
    % Andy Cassino                                       %
    % Hewlett-Packard - Lake Stevens Instrument Division %
    %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: piton_m@summer.chem.su.oz.au
Subject: Anyone using the Pentax P30N/P30T
Organization: School of Chemistry, University of Sydney
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 21:06:04 GMT

G'day, Shooters:

Well, I just had to ask. There's been alot of talk regarding AF SLRs and
old manual cameras like the Pentax K1000 but little discussion about more
recent additions to the manual camera market.  Does anyone use the new
Pentax manual cameras P-30T and/or P-30N?  Apart from any snobbery about good
old solid [read cast iron] technologies, are these in the same league as the
K1000 and the later K1000 SE?  Playing with one in a local shop, it seemed
pretty good although the shutter did seem a bit heavy.  Very light, though,
so it must be a blessing to carry on long hikes.  Anyone out there own one
and would care to comment to a future prospective buyer?

Mark, the Canuck DownUnder
From: kabir@kabir.Eng.Sun.COM (Ihtisham Kabir)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Leica, why so high?
Date: 29 Sep 92 22:01:43 GMT
Reply-To: kabir@kabir.Eng.Sun.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems
NNTP-Posting-Host: kabir

In article 92Sep25110143@zug.ai.mit.edu, philg@zurich.ai.mit.edu (Philip Greenspun) writes:
>
>I don't think Leicas were the first still cameras to use 35mm movie
>film (I think Leica came along 10-20 years after the very first 35mm
>cameras).  However, they were among the first high quality expensive
>35mm cameras.

>Philip Greenspun
>MIT

Hmmm.

Leica and its associated literature would have you believe that Oskar
Barnack was the inventor of the 35mm still camera. Or at least that's
the impression I got reading one of the Leica books.

What were some of the other 35mm still cameras before Leica, if indeed
Leica was not the first?

Not a flame, just trying to find out the truth.

- Ihtisham Kabir
kabir@sun.com
From: mas@mipl8.jpl.nasa.gov (Marc Sarrel)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Help wanted with depth of field problems !!!
Date: 29 Sep 92 18:17:05 GMT
Article-I.D.: mipl8.MAS.92Sep29111705
	<1992Sep29.045403.1449@cello.hpl.hp.com>
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory

I couldn't give you any technical recommendations, but have you
thought of a pinhole camera?  There was a discussion of pinhold
photography here not too long ago.  It sounds like a metal plate with
a hole on a 4x5 camera body might do the trick.  It has very good
depth of field, you can get any focal length you want, you can always
cover the whole neg, and, since I assume your subject isn't moving,
you can live with the long exposure.

--marc
--
Marc Sarrel			"And they lived ever after, which is about
Jet Propulsion Laboratory	 all you can expect from a story like this."
mas@mipl8.jpl.nasa.gov		            --  Fractured Fairy Tales
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 23:28:24 EDT
From: <QXF1@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: experience with 8000i?

Hi, is there any one who has any experience with a Minolta 8000i?  I am
planningto get one from ABE's for $300.  Price sounds good, but I want some
pros and cons toward to camera itself.
Thanks in advance.

Ching Fong
From: eugene@briar.lle.rochester.edu (Eugene Kowaluk)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Poloraid back for 35mm SLR
Date: 30 Sep 92 13:00:20 GMT
Organization: UofR Laboratory for Laser Energetics


Rune Riisnaes writes:
> Eugene Kowaluk writes:

> : I use a Polaroid back for both my 35 & 2.25.  The 35 is an NPC and can use
> : any Polaroid 3.25x4.25 film pack.  It can make two exposure on one sheet,
> : and each image is 24x36mm.
> : 
> : Unlike the 2.25 back with a dark slide, the 35 has a free-floating fibre
> : optic plate which transfers the image from the camera to the film.  
> 
> What is the quality of the polaroid image with this fibre optic transfer ?

Similar to looking at a contact sheet.


> what or who is an NPC ?)

NPC Corporation
Photo Division
1238 Chestnut Street
POB 245
Newton Upper Falls MA  02164



eugene kowaluk
From: andyc@hplsla.hp.com (Andy Cassino)
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 20:01:55 GMT
Subject: Re: night exposures for traffic
Organization: HP Lake Stevens, WA
Newsgroups: rec.photo

bson@gnu.ai.mit.edu (Jan Brittenson) writes:
> 
> In article <5360809@hplsla.hp.com> andyc@hplsla.hp.com (Andy Cassino) writes:
> 
>  > If you want to get going fast, try a roll of Fujichrome 50D or Velvia.
> 
>    I'd also recommend tungsten-balanced film. Most of the night light
> comes from bulbs -- so do car lights. Using T film will give a much
> more bluish appearance. It's also a good idea to experiment (or
> bracket) with DM +/- 3 and DM +/- 6 filters (e.g. what some filter
> manufacturers call KR3, KB3, KR6, KB6 or CR3, CB3, CR6, CB6 or some
> such -- no idea what Wratten codes they would have though, the W.
> codes are too arbitrary for me to memorize). Well, at least bracket
> with a DM +3 and a DM -3.

I have some tungsten film in the fridge waiting to be tried. It appears
to me that the reason to use tungsten film is because of the superior
reciprocity characteristics. Or does tungsten film do a better job of
rendering mercury and sodium-vapor lighting than daylight film? It seems 
that little artificial lighting in the nightscape is tungsten lighting!

Not that I am sure that extended reciprocity characteristics are a good
thing. I have a theory that reciprocity failure can be quite helpful in 
night photography, by preventing the build-up of excessive contrast. (I
know I see no need to use masks for my Cibachromes of night scenes!)

Well, that's just conjecture.


    %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
    % Andy Cassino                                       %
    % Hewlett-Packard - Lake Stevens Instrument Division %
    %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: drraymon@watdragon.uwaterloo.ca (Darrell Raymond)
Subject: Re: Leica, why so high?
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 00:05:56 GMT

In article <MOREAUX.92Oct6175430@litsun22.epfl.ch>, moreaux@litsun22.epfl.ch (Michel Moreaux) writes:
> 
> It is the best argument I have ever seen concerning Leica. I do not own a 
> Leica but some Nikon stuff and I have made a lot of lens testings. I have 
> always noticed that the results obtained "on the field" where considerably 
> worse than those predicted by the tests. Finally, I determined that this 
> was due to the fact that the camera moves slightly when it is hand-held. 
> In fact, when I  used a tripod the problem disappeared !
> 
> _Michel Moreaux

  Another important features of M-series Leicas that tends not to show up
in tests, but does matter in real photography, is the very bright, very 
sharp, and very accurate rangefinder.  It is far more accurate than the 
split image in SLR cameras for wide angle to normal lenses (SLRs are
better for telephotos), and unlike an SLR, is insenstive to the lens's
maximum aperture.  The view/rangefinder is especially appreciated by those 
of us who don't have 20-20 eyesight.

-Darrell.
From: schumann@msus1.msus.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Nicon F3 camera/motordrive
Date: 29 Sep 92 11:52:54 -0600
Organization: Minnesota State University System

In article <1992Sep29.051951.6645@techbook.com>,
cathy@techbook.com (Cathy Gaupo) writes:
> Several months ago,  I bought a motor drive for my Nicon F3.
> I attached it and played with it and put the camera away and didn't
> think about it for a long time.  Well, I wanted to use my camera this
> past weekend without the motor drive attached.  But I couldn't because
> it seems that I lost the round thing (sorry- not very technical) that
> connects the camera to the motordrive.  (Not the item in the center
> where you attach your motor drive to the camera, but the thing on the
> side where you put your film in).  
> 
> So if anyone out there knows what I'm talking about, how easy is it to
> buy a new one?  I called my camera shop, and they knew what I was
> talking about, but said they couldn't get one.  
> 
> How important is it?  Will it let in light if I unattach my motor drive?
> 
> I realize these questions are fairly easy for all of you, but
> I'm a very infrequent photographer with way too sophisicated camera my 
> skill level.

Well, Cathy, yes, you do need that cover to photograph without the 
motordrive or else run the risk of light leaks.

If you check the battery pack insert to the motordrive, you will 
notice that it has a small storage slot for that cover.  Check there 
-- maybe you put the cover in there but forgot about it?

If you still can't find the cover, check Del's camera store out in 
California -- they seem to be the best at stocking items like the one 
you need.  I don't have their number handy, but it is on the mail 
order posting that appears regularly on this newsgroup.  Del also is a 
regular advertiser in _Shutterbug_, which should be available at most 
good magazine stores.  Or maybe someone on the net has the number 
handy?

Hope this helps.
--
   Paul L. Schumann, Ph.D.           |  VAX:  IN%"schumann@MSUS1.MSUS.EDU"
   Professor of Management           |  Office Phone:       (507) 389-5349
   Mankato State University          |  Secretary's Phone:  (507) 389-2966
   Mankato, MN   56002-8400          |  Fax Number:         (507) 389-5497

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: MSPERKO@kentvm.kent.edu (Mike Sperko)
Subject: Film Cutters
Organization: Kent State Univ.
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 18:44:30 GMT

Does anybody know of a good way to cut 120 roll film (other than sissors)?
Sometimes if the frames are a bit low key, it is hard to tell where to cut.
I have a lighted film cutter for 35mm and was wondering if anybody knew of
such a model desgined for 120.  Thanks in advance.
 
Mike Sperko
internet  msperko@kentvm.kent.edu
 
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: brad@wubios.wustl.edu (Brad Wilson)
Subject:  Better lens
Organization: Division of Biostatistics, WUMS, St. Louis, MO
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 19:39:50 GMT

	I currently use a Kalimar 35-70 f3.5 and a Vivitar 70-210 f4.5-5.6
	on my Minolta X-300s (X-370n).

	I'd like to get a higher quality (faster, better optics) zoom
	in the 35-105 range.

	I've seen several lenses by Sigma, Tokina, Tamron that are of
	that approximate length (28-105, 35-135, etc.)  And they
	are fast (f2.8, not a floating aperture.)  The prices run
	$300 - $500.

	I'm seeking recommendations an any zoom lenses of this range and
	quality.
	Since this is a frequent request, would you please e-mail.
	I'll keep a file for anyone who is interested.
-- 
						    Brad Wilson
 Internet: brad@wubios.wustl.edu                    Box 8067, Biostatistics
 uucp:     uunet!wuarchive!wubios!brad              660 South Euclid
 Washington University Medical School               Saint Louis, MO 63110
From: rune@cimsand.UUCP (Rune Riisnaes)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Magzine: Darkroom & Creative Camera Techniques
Date: 29 Sep 92 10:07:15 GMT
Organization: Cimage A.S, Sandvika, Norway.
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4

IO92112@MAINE.MAINE.EDU writes:
: I just received a mail from Darkroom& Creative Camera Techniques Magzine.
: I have never seen or heard this magzine. Just wondering anybody has any
: experience and comments with the magzine.
: Garry Huang

I've been a subscriber for two years now, mainly because of their
excellent technical articles on darkroom techniques.  If you're doing
your own B/W or color printing, or would like to experiment with
film developing, contrast control, or special effects, then this magazine
may be for you.  Even if you're not, their articles often provide interesting
background info.   At least for me it does :-)
-- 
Rune Riisnaes    E-mail: rune@cimage.no, rune@cimage.com, rune@cimsand.uucp
                 Cimage A.S,  Skytterdalen 6,  N-1300 Sandvika,  Norway.
                 Phone: (47-2) 54 90 40   Fax: (47-2) 54 58 40
From: ark@alice.att.com (Andrew Koenig)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Mail order: Adorama
Date: 26 Sep 92 13:12:45 GMT
Article-I.D.: alice.23733
Reply-To: ark@alice.UUCP ()
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories, Murray Hill NJ

In article <6776@transfer.stratus.com> hship@sw.stratus.com (Howard Ship) writes:

> On an order where "everything is in stock and will ship today" the 
> package arrived later than promised, and had one item backordered afterall.
> I am not happy.

On a few occasions when I have ordered from Adorama, they have explained
to me that they can determine only how many of the item their database says
they have in stock when I place the order.  The database may not be completely
accurate, and it is possible that between when I place the order and they go
to pack it, someone else will have taken the last one.
-- 
				--Andrew Koenig
				  ark@europa.att.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: news@walter.bellcore.com
Subject: Book Wanted: Yuan Li's Expressionist Landscape
Reply-To: jchen@wind.bellcore.com (Jason Chen)
Organization: Bellcore, Morristown, NJ
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 92 21:29:06 GMT

If you are willing to part, send me an e-mail.

C. Jason Chen 
jchen@flash.bellcore.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: ralandc@tara.SanDiego.NCR.COM (Raland Camara)
Subject: canon eos questions
Reply-To: ralandc@tara.SanDiego.NCR.COM (Raland Camara)
Organization: NCR Corporation, Rancho Bernardo
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 17:34:42 GMT

     
          I owned a Canon AE-1 Program for many years and was 
     very pleased with it.  It experienced some unfortunate salt 
     water damage making in inoperable and virtually unrepairable.  
          I am presently in the market for a new camera body.   
     Since I had such good luck in the past with Canon, I decided 
     to investigate the EOS line of cameras.  I have been very 
     impressed with the advanced high technology features now 
     incorporated in the EOS cameras.  I do have a dilemma in that 
     I still have a substantial investment in many Canon FD 
     lenses.  
          In the process of examining the new EOS camera bodies 
     as well as trying to salvage the use of my FD lenses, I have 
     come up with a number of questions.  
     
     1. I have seen 3rd party adapters for allowing mounting 
        of Canon FD lenses onto Canon EOS bodies.  Does Canon 
        make an adapter such as this?
     2. If so, what is the model number of it and where can 
        I purchase one?
     3. If not, do you recommend any particular brand/model?
     4. Are there any significant effects on exposure or 
        image quality?
     5. I realize that an adapter is not going to make my 
        manual focus FD lenses into auto-focus lenses, but 
        will my FD lenses still retain their auto exposure 
        capabilities they had with my AE-1 Program ?
        (i.e.  automatic-shutter speed priority, Program mode)
     6. Will they have any new capabilites?
     7. Aside from price, what are the differences between the 
        cameras in the EOS line?  
        (i.e. 10s vs. Elan vs. Rebel vs. etc.)
	in other canon lines?
	(i.e. T60, T90, etc.)
     
     
     
     
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: hasn@midway.uchicago.edu (Sheheryar Hasnain)
Subject: Help!
Organization: University of Chicago
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 19:21:21 GMT

My forthcoming photo2 course was cancelled.  Bummer!  I was really looking forward to it.  
We were supposed to focus on B&W printing (photo1 was based on slides).  But I still want to
go ahead with my plans.  I want to start off with some contact printing.  Are contact printers
easily available?  Are they expensive.  That way I would still do the developing and printing 
without needing an enlarger (it uses domestic light, right?).  Once I get the hang of contact 
printing, I can move on and use the universitys enlarger and dark room.  
Currently I take slide shots and process them at home.

Is it possible to learn B&W printing using a book? I have John Hedge....(cant remember name)'s
"Complete Photo course"  which is pretty good.  Any advice on "self learning" would be 
appreciated.  (advice from "self taught" people would be especially encouraging).

 Thanks in advance.
Sheheryar
From: fiddler@concertina.Eng.Sun.COM (steve hix)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Popluar Photography (was does Popular Photography really protect/assist its readers?)
Date: 29 Sep 92 01:24:44 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Mt. View, Ca.
NNTP-Posting-Host: concertina

In article <1992Sep28.230718.29537@indetech.com> alix@indetech.com (Alexandria North) writes:
>
>By the way, I was wondering if anyone on the net has ever received their 
>free Nikon magazine sample issue for sending in their warranty/reg cards
>and filling out the questionnaire. I did this for my Nikon 8008s back in 
>April, but I've never seen a Nikon magazine...

Let's see...three new Nikons (4004, 4004s, 8008) in our house over a three-
year period, all cards/forms filled out, signed, sent in.

Never have seen so much as a single issue of any Nikon magazine.

Some marketing mail, though (announcement of some new product, text no
pictures).

--
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Of making many books there is no end...  |  What's wrong with chasing 
                       -- Eccl. 12:12    |  nebulae till 3 am?  |-(
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: duane@cbnewsj.cb.att.com (duane.galensky)
Subject: Re: Nikon F prism: How to disassemble?
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 18:51:57 GMT

In article <5160@daily-planet.concordia.ca> honna@cs.concordia.ca (SEGEL honna) writes:
>>In article <1992Sep28.143043.187@cbnewsj.cb.att.com>, duane@cbnewsj.cb.att.com (duane.galensky) writes:
>>...
>>> does anyone have any idea how to accomplish this disassembly?
>>> are there screws under the leather that hold the
>>> innards into the housing?
>>> 
>Yes, you will have to pry up the leatherette.  Assuming you are talking about
>the basic meter-less p-prism, you pretty much have no choice but to take the 
>chance stripping it off entirely and later re-gluing it;loose F p-prisms are
>as rare as all-mechanical manual system 35mm SLRs "for around $100".
>Better to strip the whole piece than just the corners; looks better, anyway.
>I've seen, and used, old-fashioned rubber cement to re-glue the leatherette.
>Don't expect the job you do to be exactly "factory", though you can get 
>pretty close if you cut the glue.
>

thanks to everyone who responded!  this net is great...

i was extremely fortunate to find a prism in great shape
(except for needing cleaning) for $40 at a swap meet...
most folks wouldn't even consider selling one without the
body, but this guy didn't even hesitate!

duane
Newsgroups: rec.photo