HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: frank@molbio.cbs.umn.edu (Frank Williams)
Subject: Re: Any tips from ErgoPower users for a new ErgoPower owner?
Organization: University of Minnesota
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1992 03:57:56 GMT

Mike Whitman (mike@pyrdc.UUCP) wrote:
: Santa dropped a set of ErgoPower levers down my chimmney last night and I was
: wondering what I should watch out for when installing/adjusting them. Anyone
: with some hints they would be appreciated. Thanks,

The only thing I found to require tinkering was the position of the front
deraileur relative to the click stops.  Try to set the system so that the
last click before shifting to the big ring gives good clearance while on
the smaller cogs in back.  Then, hopefully, the next click will give a
reliable shift, making two clicks unnecessary.  I also found that grime
in the front deraileur changed the positions of the deraileur at any
particular click stop.

Frank Williams
frank@molbio.cbs.umn.edu

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: EPLUS17@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu (Richard Engelbrecht-Wiggans)
Subject: Re: New Phil Wood Hub question
Organization: C.C.S.O.
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1992 02:45:04 GMT

In article <1992Dec26.153430.13098@news.ysu.edu>
ae505@yfn.ysu.edu (Frank Krygowski) writes:
 
>
>I've got Phil Wood hubs on my 14 year old tandem.  Absolutely
>bulletproof.  Yes, the rear axle is internally threaded and takes
>allen screws, although I've got vertical dropouts, so I could live
>with a quick release.  I guess I never bothered to change it.
>
>My new question: I've also never bothered to change the bearings.
>Once or twice I've cleaned the outside of the bearing, peeled back
>the rubber seal a bit, and gotten a bit of oil in there, but I
>can't help but think they're no longer as good as new... or at
>least, no longer as well lubricated.
>
>They came with a 5 year guarantee (in 1979), but they also said
>they had to be returned to the factory for new bearings!  Apparently
>only Phil himself knows how to do this??
>
>Seriously, given the fact that I've got access to a machine shop:
>anybody got any tips on a) lubricating and b)changing bearings in
>the old non-user-servicable Phil Wood hubs?    Thanks in advance.
>
We have (among others) a 1977 Phil Wood read tandem hub.  The
bearing/axle assembly in our hub is a cyclindrical object press
fit into the hub/flange body assembly.  If yours is the same,
you should be able to press out the core and send it to Phil for
a replacement.  I'd check with him first though to make sure he
still makes what you want.  (I can't find his telephone number.)
 
..Richard E+17
 
 
 
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: EPLUS17@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu (Richard Engelbrecht-Wiggans)
Subject: Re: Phil Wood hubs
Organization: C.C.S.O.
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1992 02:55:31 GMT

In article <1992Dec26.224324.8712@beaver.cs.washington.edu>
pardo@cs.washington.edu (David Keppel) writes:
 
>>stevec@water.ca.gov writes:
>>>[Solid axles are heavier but stronger.]
>
>kiisaka@csi.uottawa.ca (Ken Iisaka (the mad pianist)) writes:
>>[The QR skewer fills the hollow axle hole, and the nuts are about the
>> same weight as the QR.  Probably a few grams lighter.  And the material
>> in the center of a solid axle doesn't help the axle resist bends.]
>
>The bolt-on axles used by Phil Wood and Bullseye are attatched using
>allen-head bolts inserted from the ends.  The hollow space in the
>middle of the axle is filled with air, so the axle assembly is lighter.
>
Careful!  On my Phil Wood bolt on, the bolts were 5/16" and about
2.5 inches long each.  On my Phil Wood QR, the ends of the axle are
reduced to just allow a skewer through...essentially no difference
in the amount of axle material.  But, those two bolts might weigh
as much as a light QR; I can't check since I stripped the treads
years ago, put a solid axle through the hub, and now can't find the
bolts.
 
> ...........................................  The biggest load on hubs
> is a bending load and the strength of the axle in that direction
> increases as the square of the axle diameter (? something faster than
> linear), so having a fat axle is more important than a skinny axle of
> a stronger material.
>
For tubing with a fixed wall thickness, doubling the diameter
both doubles the amount of material and the mean distance of the
material from the center, thus qradupling the resistance to
bending.  So, I believe that for solid objects, the resistance
to bending goes up faster than the square of the diameter (but
not much, since the material near the center doesn't contribute
much to bending resistance.)
 
..Richard E+17
From: jbrandt@hplred.HPL.HP.COM (Jobst Brandt)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 22:52:30 GMT
Subject: Re: Re: Chain Maintenance Question
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories, Palo Alto, CA
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech

David George writes:

> Now I have absolutely no slippage whatsoever, changing is still
> super smooth, even with the ancient front and rear Exage indexing
> levers.  I also figure 4000 miles on the SEDIS (design flaws and
> all) is pretty good value.

> So what are you guys doing to your chains ?  I can only assume
> that my lack of oiling helped save my chain from wear.

This is possible though not common.  If you use 20t sprockets or
greater, the rate of wear diminishes in what appears to be about
proportional to the number of teeth or better.  Thus if you change
your chain as often as you say, the sprocket disfigurement always
be below the critical limit.  Hence I suspect that you wear your
chains out on trails where a 52t-15t ratio would be inappropriate.
I am interested whether this is an accurate scenario for your chain.

jobst_brandt@hplabs.hp.com
From: jbrandt@hplred.HPL.HP.COM (Jobst Brandt)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 22:51:51 GMT
Subject: Re: Re: Chain Maintenance Question
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories, Palo Alto, CA
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech

XiDavid Keppel writes:

> A new chain measures 12" for a dozen link pairs (one set each of
> wide and narrow link plates).  At 12-1/8" it is time to consider
> replacement.  At 12-1/4", the cogs and chainrings are being
> damaged.

I think you are giving this an excessively binary character.  As
soon as you use the chain it begins to wear and its pitch increases,
and this concentrates more load on the disengaging tooth.  This
increased load is doubly damaging because the chain rolls out of
engagement over an increasing length of tooth, as chain pitch
elongates.  It is a continuous process.

Less apparent is that only every second chain roller increases in
pitch since the link that carries two rollers is by definition
always at correct pitch.  It is the connecting link (outer plates
and pins) that develop the increase in length both by wear on the
pins and the sleeves in which they turn.  Therefore, the percentage
pitch error is actually twice as great as one would deduce just from
chain elongation (the elongation being concentrated in half the
links).

Because most bicycles have derailleurs or an odd number of teeth on
their sprocket, the sprockets wear uniformly because, although only
every second tooth is loaded, they all have their turn at this task.

I think the FAQ has enough information on this to satisfy the
subject but there are always nuances to this that may not be
apparent.

jobst_brandt@hplabs.hp.com
From: jbrandt@hplred.HPL.HP.COM (Jobst Brandt)
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 23:45:21 GMT
Subject: Re: Re: Chain Maintenance Question
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories, Palo Alto, CA
From: alh@einoed.in-berlin.de (Adrian Le Hanne)
Subject: Specialized WTB saddle?
Organization: Einoed Unix & Netzwerke, Berlin (FRG)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1992 10:26:21 GMT

Hello,
in summer i read something about a WTB saddle that will be produced by
Specialized (and thus, hopefuly not that expensive).

Is this thing available yet? What are the prices/weight for the steel 
and titanium model?

thanks,
Adrian
-- 
Adrian S. Le Hanne        Einoed Unix & Netzwerke, Koepenicker Str.154, D-1000
alh@einoed.in-berlin.de   Berlin 36. Tel.: 030/611 31 26,  Fax.: 030/611 32 86
  "On a day such as this you should insist on more than the truth" -Pere Ubu
From: jrdodd@waikato.ac.nz
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Cateye Astral (was Advice on Computers)
Date: 29 Dec 92 13:47:20 +1300
Organization: University of Waikato, Hamilton, New Zealand

Some of you may recall my request for info re: computers.  Thanks to those who
responded,  if you're interested I got a Cateye Astral.  This is the latest
Cateye (excepting the Mitty which is as waterproof as a Giro Air Attack), 
which although is not mounted over the stem has everything else in a nice
package,  incl auto start/stop,  cadence (with simultaneous speed display),
and 24hr clock.

This goes for $125 in New Zealand (around US$70).

Just thought you'd like to know.

Jonathan.
From: barilj@ERE.UMontreal.CA (Baril Jude)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Sach-Maillard Aris Freewheel 7 spd SIS compat. ?
Date: 1 Jan 93 16:18:09 GMT
Organization: Universite de Montreal


	I have a Phil Wood hub and i would like to find
a freewheel that will be SIS 7 spd compatible.  I already
have Shimano 105 shift lever (SIS 7s) and the rear derailleur
is a Deore DX.

	My question is: Is Aris freewheels 7 spd are SIS
compatible and are they fit in a 126mm wide dropout ?

	Thank you for your precious help and happy new year.
__

Jude Baril                  "Vroum vroum vroum __o               Service Reseau
barilj@ERE.UMontreal.CA     sur mon p'tit    _ \<,_      Services Informatiques
(514)343-6111 ext: 5268     bicycle ..."    (_)/ (_)     Universite de Montreal
                                            0-0---0
From: rfriedel@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Ronald J Friedel)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Allsop Suspension Seat Post
Date: 31 Dec 1992 17:30:06 GMT
Organization: Computing Services Division, University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: 129.89.7.4
Summary: Can I get one for a Burley tandem?
Originator: rfriedel@csd4.csd.uwm.edu

I have a question for the net.

We have a 2 year old Burley tandem, probably one of the original ones.
It has an ovalized top tube.

Being in the after-Christmas sales buying mood, I ordered some stuff from
Nashbar and Performance.  We had thought about getting an Allsop cantilever
seat "post" and when I was talking to the telephone person at Performance,
I asked about it.  It had been in their catalogs of about a year ago.  It
was no longer available from Performance.

I then went to a local bike shop, where we had purchased the Burley, and
asked about the Allsop.  The manager, who is a friend, said he would call
Allsop and order one for me.  He called me at the end of the day and
said that Allsop no longer makes the cantilever beams as retrofits on
bikes with oval tubing.  He did give me the Allsop telephone number.

I called Allsop myself and found that they do sell their "beams" as a
retrofit kit but not for the Burleys with oval tubing.  I got the 
feeling that I was getting into "lawyers territory" so I stopped trying
to order one at that point.

Someone (Pam?) in the past posted some details about attaching an Allsop
to a Burley.  I seem to remember that the original attachments failed and
that this person found a good fix for the problem.

I am willing to drill a hole through the Burley's top-tube, if necessary,
to fit one of these beams.  I know, it would invalidate the frame
warrenty.  Maybe it would compromise the frame strength.  Any comments?

Any ideas would be appreciated.  (We haven't seen the ads for the springy
seat posts in "Bicycling" for a while; nor in the LAW magazine.  These
would be a cheaper alternative and could be more easily thrown out if
they didn't work out.)

Thanks,
Ron Friedel



-- 
Ron Friedel
GeoSciences  UW-Milwaukee
rfriedel@csd4.csd.uwm.edu

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: H.ZIERKE@BI-LINK.owl.de (Hans-Joachim Zierke)
Subject: Dynamo efficiency (Re: looking for DT Sw
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 92 13:00:00 +0100
X-Mailer: CrossPoint v2.0 R/211 [E47A]
X-Gateway: ZCONNECT UI bi-link.owl.de [RFC/Connect IIIb DOS v0.46]


On 17.12.92, crauel@math.uni-sb.de writes:

c> H.ZIERKE@BI-LINK.owl.de (Hans-Joachim Zierke) writes:
c> 
c>  () A Sanyo Dynapower is about 25% efficient, the bottom bracket dynamos 
c>  () of Union and Soubitez 35-40%, the new Union 9001 40-45%.  Engineers 
c>  () working on this told me that the borderline for hub generators might 
c>  () be 70%, but the DT hub will not reach this (a 70% efficient hub dynamo 
c>  () will always be bigger than the DT).
c> 
c> Thank you for this information. Do you also have information on the 
c> efficiency of the NORDLICHT and the AXA tyre-wall (or which is the 
c> proper notion?) generators, and would you be willing to provide it 
c> on this board? 

The numbers for Sanyo roller, Union 8601, Soubitez roller are independent 
test data, the number for Union 9001 is a factory claim.
The 9001 (the small "mouse" with <please translate "Bariumferrit">  ;-)
magnet material) is still in a prototype status. (UNION might tell you it is 
ready for production, but since I got a test sample, I'm sure it has a 
prototype status :^) .)  I expect it to be very good when the work is 
finished.

The factory claim of UNION will be okay, they don't lie normally - they
always take the "best" speed for the measurement, as anybody would do.


The NORDLICHT dynamo is about 20-25% efficient according to independent
tests.
I don't remember the exakt figure for the AXA, but it should be in the 
35% range. This is a factory claim, too, but trustable.


Ciao
Hajo

--
Hans-Joachim Zierke  ##  Tel.: +49-30 / 394 8445  ##  Fax: +49-30 / 394 8447
                         h.zierke@bi-link.owl.de 
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech,rec.bicycles.racing
From: marquis@netcom.com (Roger Marquis)
Subject: Re: Have a Dave Harvey Christmas!
Organization: Netcom Online Communications Services (408-241-9760 login: guest)
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 03:18:28 GMT

What is it with these 'Dave Harvey' postings?  This stuff hardly rates
rec.bicycles.misc and I don't see any relation at all to racing.  I'm
sorry I had to post and add fuel to the fire.  

Please be considerate to your fellow net readers and ignore 'dave's
adolesent ramblings.  A signal to noise ratio is a terrible thing to
waste.  

Roger Marquis
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: mack@oakhill.sps.mot.com (Gregg Mack ( Sun ))
Subject: Re: Looking for rechargable battery supplier
Organization: Motorola Inc., Austin, Texas
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 16:40:12 GMT

richard@pegasus.com (Richard Foulk) writes:

>>>now, but I need some sources for a rechargable battery.  
>>>Anyone have an address or a phone number of a good inexpensive
>>>battery supplier? 
>>
>>Well, a year ago, Comsumer Reports rated the Radio Shack NiCds as the
>>best in the size C category.  I do not remember if that was also true
>>in the AA and D sizes, but I was looking for size C to put into my 
>>Cateye headlight.  I do know that the Radio Shack batteries need to
>>use the Radio Shack rechargers, and not a conventional recharger.

>This makes no sense, they have similar ratings to other brands, capacity,
>charge requirements, etc.  I've used a number of different chargers with
>them with no trouble at all.  I've even fast charged them with a charger
>meant for fast-charge compatible cells (lots of heat) with no ill effects.

Maybe you're right!  I just remember reading about the "different" charger
required in Consumer Reports, and I followed their (and Radio Shack's)
advice.  

>I've got Rat Shack nicads (AA) that are five or more years old, and
>with a zillion cycles on them that still perform like new.  Aren't
>they supposed to wear out after a while?

Maybe this is part of the reason that they were rated so high!
Consumer Reports doesn't always rate a product as "best" solely based on
its technical merit.  They also look at COST and ease of use, etc.

-- 
Gregg Mack                  ---------- __o       __o       __o       __o
gmack@paceline.sps.mot.com  -------- _`\<,_    _`\<,_    _`\<,_    _`\<,_
Motorola RISC uProcessors   ------- (*)/ (*)  (*)/ (*)  (*)/ (*)  (*)/ (*)
Austin, Texas  USA          ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: ae505@yfn.ysu.edu (Frank Krygowski)
Subject: New Phil Wood Hub question
Organization: Youngstown State University/Youngstown Free-Net
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 1992 15:34:30 GMT


I've got Phil Wood hubs on my 14 year old tandem.  Absolutely 
bulletproof.  Yes, the rear axle is internally threaded and takes
allen screws, although I've got vertical dropouts, so I could live
with a quick release.  I guess I never bothered to change it.

My new question: I've also never bothered to change the bearings.
Once or twice I've cleaned the outside of the bearing, peeled back
the rubber seal a bit, and gotten a bit of oil in there, but I 
can't help but think they're no longer as good as new... or at
least, no longer as well lubricated.

They came with a 5 year guarantee (in 1979), but they also said 
they had to be returned to the factory for new bearings!  Apparently
only Phil himself knows how to do this??

Seriously, given the fact that I've got access to a machine shop:
anybody got any tips on a) lubricating and b)changing bearings in
the old non-user-servicable Phil Wood hubs?    Thanks in advance.

Frank Krygowski  ae505@yfn.ysu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: keithw@cs.uq.oz.au (Keith Whitwell)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: B. Rohloff on Rohloff chains
Date: 31 Dec 92 02:56:37 GMT
Reply-To: keithw@cs.uq.oz.au

>In article <4sR891frv4@bi-l003.bi-link.owl.de> H.ZIERKE@BI-LINK.owl.de (Hans-Joachim Zierke) writes:

>I'm not really sure I can picture what a trochoide is, can any one else give
>another description.  What is a gateau?  Thanks.

Surely that would be the singular of gateaux.  It really doesn't matter as long as
it is round.


Keith



Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech,rec.bicycles.racing
From: mjohnsto@jenny.shearson.com (Mike Johnston)
Subject: Re: Have a Dave Harvey Christmas!
Organization: Lehman Brothers
	<1992Dec23.031828.22169@netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 16:43:01 GMT

In article <1992Dec23.031828.22169@netcom.com> marquis@netcom.com (Roger Marquis) writes:

   Please be considerate to your fellow net readers and ignore 'dave's
   adolesent ramblings.  A signal to noise ratio is a terrible thing to
   waste.  

So is a sense of humor. Lighten up and learn how to use a KILL FILE.

MJ
--
Michael R. Johnston, System Administrator	mjohnsto@shearson.com
"The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one
persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress
depends on the unreasonable man." - G.B. Shaw
From: jrdodd@waikato.ac.nz
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Advice for Sore Foot (and it's owner)?
Date: 31 Dec 92 16:57:15 +1300
Organization: University of Waikato, Hamilton, New Zealand

I recently installed new cranks, 10mm longer than previously, they're Shimano
105s.  Now I'm getting an uncentered pain along the outside edge of my left
foot that's really sore in the mornings.  It feels like the bones along the top
of my foot are strained somehow.  It also only really hurts when walking which
I suppose is better than hurting when I cycle.

Anyway, I wondered If anyone has had similar problems?  I'm using Diadora shoes
that provide good support,  and Look Arc pedals.

Thanks in advance,

Jonathan.

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech,rec.bicycles.marketplace,rec.bicycles.misc
From: msimpson@kean.ucs.mun.ca
Subject: Bulldog tire chains - opinions?
Organization: Memorial University. St.John's Nfld, Canada
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 14:20:47 GMT

I was wondering if anyone has had any experience using Bulldog tires
chains for winter riding?  I'd be interested in using them for offroad
purposes only.  We've been doing a lot of winter mt. biking and a recent
fall on some ice has had me thinking about tire chains and studded
tires.  Thanks for your help!

Malcolm Simpson
St. John's, Newfoundland, Canada
From: a_babel@pavo.concordia.ca (AARON BABEL)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: MTBs as racers
Date: 26 Dec 92 22:09:00 GMT
Organization: Concordia University
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41


	I posted this earlier, but my previous post seems to have disappeared. 
My request to all is advice on adapting a MTB for racing.  As it stands, I have
received four responses, all helpful, but I would also like to hear of
achievements, progress, and problems.  I own a Cannondale SM400 ('91 model),
and have found that it as great road potential as it stands.  I would like to
know how much better I could expect to perform. 

	Also, I am looking to refit the brakes and the gears for MTB-mode, so
can anyone recommend the best, from experience, to equip my bike with? I
For instance, would I be better off equiping my bike with Cannondale systems?

Thanks, I will give updates on future exploits, and would like to hear of yours.

Xref: sparky rec.bicycles.tech:2802 rec.bicycles.racing:993
From: jrdodd@waikato.ac.nz
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech,rec.bicycles.racing
Subject: Re: Have a Dave Harvey Christmas!
Date: 23 Dec 92 12:16:03 +1300
Organization: University of Waikato, Hamilton, New Zealand

In article <31.1992.LID@lemond.harvey.com>, dharvey@lemond.harvey.com (Dave "Hill" Harvey) writes:
> My fiancee, Nan, is REAL cute. I hope we love each by the date of the wedding.
> She's getting me a 57-tooth chain ring. I can't wait to try it out on the
> local tri-bobs. I can't stand those guys.
> 
>     - Dave
> ZZ

I saw Nan today 'Dave',  you didn't tell us about the 57-tooth rear cog you're
also getting so you can actually use the new chain-ring!

Jonathan

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: H.ZIERKE@BI-LINK.owl.de (Hans-Joachim Zierke)
From: freshair@iastate.edu (James W Gregory)
Subject: Re: Bulldog tire chains - opinions?
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames IA
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1993 00:14:55 GMT

In <16B491296B.EPLUS17@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu> EPLUS17@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu (Richard Engelbrecht-Wiggans) writes:


>Studded tires are easy enough to make.  Take a tire that you are
>willing to sacrifice to the experiement.  Nail a roofing nail (those
>galvanized nails with heads about 1/2" in diameter) through the tread
>from the inside, oh say about every inch or so, staggered slightly
>along the tread's centerline.....[remaining directions deleted]

I initially studded my tires this year using pan head sheet metal
screw, but wore them out in about four weeks.  (I put them on when we
had our first ice/snow fall, but had left them on after the snow and
ice had melted.)  I have since put in automobile tire studs and they
show very little wear.  Traction is great--I've ridden about 20 miles
over the past four days on icy streets (thanx to an ice storm four
days ago that has not melted at all) and haven't slipped once.

I got my studs at a local Firestone dealer.  You can find them at any
tire store that studs tires (most do).  Just ask for them.  They cost
me $0.04 each.  I put 90 studs in both front and rear tires (30 down the
tread centerline and 30 on either side).  Most people say you don't
need studs down the centerline of the tire, but I've had too much
trouble with my back tire spinning when just the sides are studded.  I
think I'd also have more problems with my front tire sliding out from
under me if the centerline wasn't studded.

Studding tires with studs is time-consuming (it takes me about 1 hr to
drill holes with a brace-and-bit and install 30 or so studs), but
definitely worth the investment for riding in winter.

-Jim

P.S. IMHO, the studs on IRC 'Blizzard' tires don't stick out enought
for good traction.  I've tried them and found them wanting.  And, at
$40 ea., they're not cheap, either.

-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jim Gregory      freshair@iastate.edu    |  "10,000 lemmings can't be wrong"
Dept. of Plant Pathology, ISU (by day)   |          - anonymous
Fresh Aire Delivery Services (by night/weekends)