HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: kting@cse.unl.edu (Kea Ting)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: 3 Questions
Date: 11 Dec 1992 20:22:01 GMT
Organization: University of Nebraska--Lincoln	
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: cse.unl.edu

denis@pangea.Stanford.EDU (Denis Schiozer) writes:

>I would like some help in 3 subjects.

>1) Does anyone know a really good book on photography,
>   with useful hints?

   What kind of hints you want ? Try kodak guide to 35mm photography, it
tell you a lot , the things that you think you know.


>2) The batteries for the 10s are good for only about 15
>   films. Is this normal?

    Does the 10s have a build in flash ? Flash will eat up a lot of
lithium power. $10 (lithium cost) for every 15 rolls, is very expensive.
My maxxum 7000i with lithium can last 25-35 rolls of 36exp. (no flash
build in 7000!)


>3) How expensive is to buy all the stuff to develop
>   black and white pictures at home?
  Well, if cost is important and just want to have some fun. Then
try the used enlarger at local store, run < $80.00 (new cadet II cost about
$100) ,plus others chemical, paper, reels, tank, ..... may be another
$100-$150 (of course everything in small amount first, and some other
things you can actually do withoud).
   My suggestion is get a book on b&w processing and printing and see
what you really need and check the price locally or from magazine. One
good book is kodak b&w darkroom technique, another one is 
Into your dark room step by step (something like that, I saw it
in the book store, I don't have it, but it is pretty good after I look at
it for a while. I own the first book that I mention.) 




--
soon

University Of                  Disclaimer :
Nebraska-Lincoln               I always speak for myself.
From: mikec@spider.co.uk (Mike Coren)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: 120 Film Prices in Scotland?
Date: 11 Dec 92 17:24:45 GMT
Organization: Spider Systems Limited, Edinburgh, UK.

In article <Bz3JA8.3nw@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk> jack@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk (Jack Campin) writes:
>asmall2@mach1.wlu.ca (alastair small 9209 G) wrote:
>
>> Also, if you could point me to the best place for processing in addition to
>> prices, that would be a great help.
>
>Ask in Edinburgh Cameras, Lothian Road (the best shop in town, with a pro
>department upstairs) - they should be able to point you in the right
>direction.  There are lots of labs in Edinburgh and I haven't used any of
>them.
>

I've never used Edinburgh Cameras for processing film, so I don't know
how good they are.  Their secondhand store on South Clerk St. is fun to
browse in, though.

Most of the places in Edinburgh that send their film out of house use a
commercial lab called Colour Care, which produces CRAP results (IMO, of
course).  This includes John Menzies, all Lindsay & Gilmour chemists, and,
to my initial shock, Jessops (which I was originally impressed with, but
the more I deal with them the less I like them.  Quite the opposite of
Edinburgh Cameras, which I originally thought was a glorified minilab, but
whose sales people seem to actually understand the product lines they carry.
But I digress...).

The best place in Edinburgh I've found is a place called Ideal Format in a
small industrial estate on Newhaven Road in Leith (about two blocks from the
corner of Pilrig St. and Broughton Road).  They're not cheap, charging upwards
of 7-8 quid for a 35mm 24 exposure (process & print), but they do good work,
and unlike minilabs, won't say "it's all done by the machine, we can't make it
any better."  I've used them for night time shots, where most labs will print
the background as green.

Another place, which I've never actually used, is Williamson & Wolfe, on
South St. David Street, off St. Andrew's Square.  I only mention them
because they say they send their film to Kodak, not some cheesy lab.
Again, I've never brought my film there, so I can't say how good they
are.  I did buy a camera from them, and they were OK there (good sales
people, matched the lowest price in town).  I guess that's not a very
helpful suggestion!

For more "conventional" pictures, I've had good results from a mail order
place in Coventry called Colab.  They charge about 4 quid for 24 prints and
5 for 36, and usually if I send my film out before the Monday morning mail
pickup, it's back to me by Friday (although sometimes it takes up to 2 weeks).
I'm not sure if they can handle 120, though.

Hope that helps!
Mike

-- 
Michael D. Coren, Electrical Engineer             mikec@spider.co.uk
Telecommunications Techniques Corporation, Germantown, Maryland, USA.
Temporarily at Spider Systems Limited, Edinburgh, Scotland, UK.
From: kassover@rumsey.crd.ge.com (David Kassover)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Outgrowing your gear
Date: 18 Dec 92 16:42:39 GMT
Organization: nope

In article <PHR.92Dec17215354@napa.telebit.com> phr@telebit.com (Paul Rubin) writes:
>   BTW: Nikon isn't the only manufacturer with backwards compatibility in
>   the lens mount (and not complete compatibility either). Pentax has
>   done it too, and better, with their K-mount.
>
>Really.  Tell me how to put a 1960-vintage screw-mount Pentax
>lens on a K-mount body.  Tell me how to get full-aperture metering
>while you're at it.

I believe there exists an adapter, but you do lose open aperture
metering.


I, on the other hand, would like to be able to the other way,
stop down metering doesn't bother me in the slightest.  Although
I *would* like to retain auto-aperture.

Also, the older lenses won't have a tab that communicates with
the ES, so as to allow exposure automation.  Some 3rd party
screwmount lenses have this tab, some do not...




-- 
David Kassover             "Proper technique helps protect you against
uupsi!khazad!kassover	          sharp weapons and dull judges."
kassover@aule-tek.com                   F. Collins
kassover@ra.crd.ge.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: ecldco@ultb.isc.rit.edu (E.C. Loyd)
Subject: Frame Advance for Maxxum 7000
Reply-To: ecldco@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 17:07:46 GMT

A few years ago (say, ten) I was quite "in" to photo processing.
I took a few courses at the University of Cincinnati, and as part
of the "develop your pictures" class, you had to, of course, take
a few pictures.  That was with a beat old OM-1 that my father had.

I'm starting to get back into my photgraphy craze, and in October,
purchased a Minolta Maxxum 7000 with a Minolta AF 50mm,
Minolta AF 35-70mm, and a Sigma AF 75-200mm lens.  Also got
the AF2880 (or something like that) flash.  I recently got an
old Tamron 400mm as well that works great.

I'm quite happy with the Maxxum.  It does everything I don't always
want to do, yet it allows for great artistic freedom.

With one exception.

I really would like to be able to perform double exposures.
The problem is, to my knowledge, there is no way to prevent
the film from auto-advancing.  Does anyone know something
that I don't, or know if there is a (preferrably Minolta authorized)
modification that can be done to allow for multiple exposures?

--
Eric C. Loyd                            ecldco@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
ISC/Data Center Operations              Phone: (716) 475-7320
Rochester Institute of Technology       FAX:   (716) 475-5306
Rochester, NY  14623  USA               All-In-One: LOYD EC (@a1.isc.rit.edu)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jchen@wind.bellcore.com (Jason Chen)
Subject: Re: color change w/o exposure change: Why?
Reply-To: jchen@ctt.bellcore.com
Organization: Bell Communications Research
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 92 17:47:47 GMT

In article <1992Dec14.163600.28639@athena.cs.uga.edu>, mcovingt@aisun3.ai.uga.edu (Michael Covington) writes:
|> Reciprocity failure.
|> 
|> In very long exposures, film becomes less efficient.  That is, it "forgets"
|> some of the photons that have fallen on it.  With Tri-X Pan, for example, 
|> a 3-minute exposure picks up only twice as much light as a 1-minute exposure
|> (not 3 times as much, as you would expect).
|> 
|> With color film, the extent of this phenomenon is not the same in the three
|> different color layers.
|> 
Please note that I modified the subject slightly. 

Even when the exposure/lighting conditions are exactly the same between 
consecutive frames, with slight shift in panorama view, the colors of
the sea, sky and sand always show up slightly different between prints.

Is this caused by the processing or different angles with respect to the sun?

Jason Chen
From: kassover@rumsey.crd.ge.com (David Kassover)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Depth of Field preview - any 'cheap` SLRs?
Date: 17 Dec 92 03:07:20 GMT
Organization: nope

In article <1992Dec15.182711.17816@unislc.uucp> erc@unislc.uucp (Ed Carp) writes:
>
>Around the mid-70's, most SLRs had a depth-of-field preview lever on 'em.
>I wonder why the manufacturers took 'em off.  I particularly remember the
>Minolta SRT-10X series (with fondness for everything but where they put the
>damned meter switch!)...

Wasn't that series one of the ones where you turned on the meter
by thumbing the film advance?  Inconvenient if you're left-eyed.

I suspect that dof preview levers started disappearing in the mid
70's because they were holdovers from the days of stop-down
meters.  When did Pentax introduce the K-mount?

Speaking of strange meter switches, the meter on the yashica
TL-Electro is turned on by pushing a switch alongside the
lensmount downwards.  It is entirely too easy to close this
switch when putting the case on.  Not a big deal, ordinarily,
since it's dark inside the case, but the TL-Electro had
match-diode indicators, and the big green underexposure arrow
drains the battery real well.

I think that some versions of the Pentax K-1000 have the meter on
all the time, but since it's match-needle or moving needle, it
doesn't draw any current unless the lenscap is off.  OTOH, I
often have my lenscaps off for hours at a time.


-- 
David Kassover             "Proper technique helps protect you against
uupsi!khazad!kassover	          sharp weapons and dull judges."
kassover@aule-tek.com                   F. Collins
kassover@ra.crd.ge.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: robert@sys.sweden.dg.com (Robert Claeson)
Subject: Re: Taking pictures in snow!!
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 10:00:10 GMT
Organization: Data General AB, Akalla, Sweden

In article <1774@adpappl.UUCP>, ira@adpgate.UUCP (Ira Hill) writes:
> kting@cse.unl.edu (Kea Ting) writes:
> : Well, measure the exposure of the white show and then open up 2 more stop.
>                                                         ^^^^
> You want to CLOSE down 2 (3 in bright sun) stops. You example of going
> from 5.6 to 11 was correct.

Let's take this from the beginning.

Can we please agree on that the exposure meter in the camera want's
everything rendered as mid-gray? I knew we could. Now let's also agree
on that the snow is white, which is definitely lighter than gray. If
you use the said meter to measure the light reflected from the snow,
will it become black, gray or white? The correct answer, unless I'm
completely mistaken by my own reasoning, is "gray". Should we then
give the film more or less exposure for the snow to be rendered as
white on the film? I'd say that the answer is "more". More exposure
is usually accomplished by opening UP. Between 1 and 2 stops are usually
enough with 1 1/2 stops being a good starting point.

However, if you use a hand-held ambient exposure meter, you'd have to
close down slightly for the snow to fall within the film's exposure
range.

-- 
--------------------- This mass of gibberish came from ---------------------
         ____
        |    |               Robert Claeson
        |    |               Data General AB
 _______|____|_              Box 28
|    |    _    |_____        S-164 93 KISTA
|_/\ |   / \   |     |       Sweden
| \/ |   \_/   |   . |
|    |    |    |_____|       robert@sys.sweden.dg.com
|____|_________|-
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: rodney@cs.UAlberta.CA (Rodney Gitzel)
Subject: Scratch on Front Element
Organization: University of Alberta, Edmonton, Canada
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 18:17:59 GMT


What effect will a small scratch on the front
 element have on a lens?  The lens in question
 is a Canon FD 135 f2 with a 72mm filter size,
 and the scratch is about 1mm, right near the 
 centre.

So far results have been fine with it, though
 admittedly I am not at all sure where to look
 in the photos for problems.  Also, I've heard
 that rear-element scratches are far more problematic
 than those on front elements.  Is it going to
 pose problems?

Thanks.

Rodney Gitzel
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: rdf@pinet.aip.org (Robert Feinman)
Subject: Re: Idea for Photo Publicaton
Organization: pinet.aip.org
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 92 20:46:26 GMT

Apparently my thoughts about distributing original photographs have
gone over like a lead balloon. The idea was that people would receive
*actual* photographs - not images. Imagine that this was a discussion 
of scupture instead of photographs. A picture of a statue is not a
scupture.

The mechanism I was exploring was so that whatever the qualities
that make a photograph a work of art would be preserved. Photographers
spend time and make decisions about the type of paper to print on, the
presentation, toning, surface texture, etc. This is not communicated in
a reproduction.

I can buy a print of an Ansel Adams photo for $10, but an original costs
$1000. If there is no difference why aren't they the same price. (Lets
assume we keep *investment* arguments out of the reasons).

Thus the idea was that photographers would see their ideas fully
represented and buyers would be getting a real work.

Many graphic arts are distributed in editions, lithographs, etchings,
etc. Why not photographs. The idea of pooling resources was to make it
affordable. Anyone is free to print up 50-100 copies from one negative
and try to distribute them.

The few replies I have gotten from commercial photographers have all
complained about the lack of income. They can sell an *image* and make
more money that from this scheme. That is because they are not comparing
the same item. They are selling there expertise as manifested in an
image and I am talking about selling an aesthetic object itself.

While sending electronic images over networks may be an interesting
project of its own this is not what I had in mind. Several people were
concerned with the details of producing prints that were of adequate
quality for a small price. Assume that this is possible and discuss the
merits of distribution prints altogether.


-- 
Robert Feinman						rdf@pinet.aip.org
American Institute of Physics				rdf@aip.bitnet
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: lakhindr@ESD.3Com.COM (Lakhinder Walia)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: 30"x40" enlargements..
Date: 18 Dec 92 17:27:55 GMT
Distribution: rec

Hi, this size of enlargement from a 8'x10' negative..? No 
from a 35mm negative !!!!
And that too from a camera most people wont talk about on this net..: 
The Venerable Nikon one touch 100..!!
And that too : an enlargemnt  you would be able to show with pride..!!!

All this in a great magazine Popular photography, page 61, Jan 93 issue.

Ironically there is also a discussion of a nice Tripod, which goes IMHO, 
in opposite direction of shooting with P&S gadget..!
Ironically we are seeing people discussing mirror-lockup etc here on the
net  :-)

-Lakhinder Walia
From: sh09@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (STEVEN HIGGINS)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Nikon MF lenses on AF bodies
Date: 15 Dec 92 06:00:46 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

In article <1992Dec14.182747.25100@cs.UAlberta.CA>, rodney@cs.UAlberta.CA (Rodne
y Gitzel) writes:
>
>Is there any performance penalty in using
> MF lenses on AF bodies (for Nikon)?  I'm
> just wondering, as someone told me once that
> you lose 2/3 of a stop of lens speed.
>

    No Rodney, there is no fstop performance penalty involved.  Just make
    certain that the lens is compatible with the AF body.  Some of the older
    Nikon (pre-AI) MF lenses may not be, and some of the exotics might not be
    compatible.  If you're really worried, you might try to find a Nikon Data
    book, by Paul Comon and Art Evans.  It pretty much lists what lenses are
    compatible with what bodies.

    Cheers,
-- 

~Steve
sh09@lehigh.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: sog@craycos.com (Steve Gombosi)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: CC filtration for var.contrast paper
Date: 15 Dec 92 22:44:22 GMT
Organization: Cray Computer Corporation

In article <cf=UTBe00WBM42N6JD@andrew.cmu.edu> lc0v+@andrew.cmu.edu (Luis Abdon Cifuentes) writes:
>
>Does anybody knows what filtration shall I use to get different grades
>of contrast? The  paper I am using is Agfa Multicontrast MC310, high
>speed (boy, is it fast!)

<snip>

>PS: why do manufactures not include this information in the instructions
>sheets? Do they really want us to buy a set of filters for each type of
>paper?

Ilford *does* include it.

Steve
From: lakhindr@ESD.3Com.COM (Lakhinder Walia)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: 105mm f/2.8 AF Micro Nikkor lens & F3HP
Date: 18 Dec 92 20:52:36 GMT
Distribution: rec

This lens has large movements. And that changes the effective F stop
value as you go from Infinity to very close-distance.
This change shows up in 8008s' window.

I was wondering how does it show up in F3, if this lens is connected to it.
I dont think F3 "talks" to its lens like 8008s ...! I dont know of any
other way of finding about the effective value of F stop except asking the
lens itself.. 

My question is : is F3HP fully compatible with this lens..? 

Thanks
-lakhinder Walia
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: Rinne@PC386.ikw.uni-hannover.dbp.de (Frank Rinne)
Subject: MAMIYA CABIN 67
Keywords: Projector for 6x7 format
Organization: IKW
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 13:22:21 GMT

I'am looking for a slide projector for my Pentax 67.
Can I receive some informations about the Mamiya Cabin 67
projector.
Thanks
Frank

Frank Rinne
Institute for Refrigeration
Welfengarten 1A
3000 Hannover 1
EMAIL: Rinne@IKW.UNI-HANNOVER.DBP.DE
Phone 0049 511 762 5201
Fax   0049 511 762 5203
From: aqhx@vax5.cit.cornell.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Questions on Studio Portrait Photography
Date: 13 Dec 92 01:53:22 EST
Distribution: rec
Organization: Cornell University

Hello, neters

     I just have a few questions concerning portrait photography.  

1)  How important is a good flashmeter in a studio setting?  Can you get away  
    Meter IV F but it cost around $230.  Any suggestions?
2)  What would be a good starter kit for lighting?  The Studio Pro Home
    Portrait kit looks like a good deal, but according to some comments posted
    earlier, you get what you pay for.  If resources ($$$) is not too much of
    a concern, what do you suggest?
3)  Can I get away with lighting with, say, 3 units of electronic flashes,
    mounted on stands with umbrellas instead of the bulky strobes?  I own a
    Sunpak 433D flash.  Since I don't have too much storage space, I would 
    prefer to use small flash units instead of the strobes. 


   Any comments or suggestions would be much appreciated.  If a lower price
   more for the better quality.  I just hope the whole thing (flashmeter and 
   studio lighting equipment) won't cost more than $800.

   Thanks a lot.

--Oliver--  
             (The Law of Entropy is the ultimate scientific law that governs
the physical world.)  P.S. I felt that I have to type something profound.  :) 

Xref: sparky rec.photo:22241 misc.consumers:20996
From: Brian.E.Hannon@dartmouth.edu (Brian E. Hannon)
Newsgroups: rec.photo,misc.consumers
Subject: Autofocus SLR Camera Choices...
Date: 20 Dec 92 19:11:15 GMT
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH
X-Posted-From: InterNews1.0b1@newshost.dartmouth.edu

I'm interested in purchasing an automatic/manual SLR camera for my
sister who is a photography hobbiest.  Considering the entire package,
including price, what cameras would you recommend?  I've considered in
particular the
Canon EOS 10S, Minolta Maxxum 7xi, Maxxum 5xi, the Pentax PZ1, and the
Nikon N8008S/N6006.  Which of these would you recommend, and why, and
are there any that I'm missing?

Please respond by e-mail, and I'll summarize if there's interest.

Thanks,
Bri
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: Rinne@PC386.ikw.uni-hannover.dbp.de (Frank Rinne)
Subject: Projector for 6x7 Cameras
Keywords: MAMIYA CABIN 6x7 Projector
Organization: IKW
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1992 11:46:24 GMT

    I'am looking for a slide projector for my Pentax 67. 
    Can I receive some informations about the Mamiya Cabin 67
    projector.
    I'am interested in
     - power connection (115V or 220V)
     - magazines or only single slides
     - price
 
   Thanks 
   Frank

   Frank Rinne
   Institute for Refrigeration 
   University Hannover / Germany
   Welfengarten 1A
   3000 Hannover 1 
   EMAIL: Rinne@IKW@UNI-HANNOVER.DBP.DE
   Phone 0049 511 762 5201
   Fax   0049 511 762 5203
From: kinch@hpwrce.mayfield.hp.com (Kinch Malapitan)
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 20:50:08 GMT
Subject: Re: Beach Camera OK? (EF lens without warrantee card)
Organization: the HP Mtn.View Resp. Cntr.
Newsgroups: rec.photo

i really like beach camera of maine... i bought a nikon af 70-105mm lens, a
minolta weathermatic camera, and another weathermatic camera without any
warranty (since it was going to be a gift for a friend) and never had problems
with any of them... when i called them for questions (prior to my purchases),
they answered them without being rude and obnoxious like other mail order
companies i called in the east coast... of course, i may have been lucky to 
get a hold of a good salesperson... good luck !!!





============================================================================
= the above is my personal opinion... my employer has nothing to do with it=
============================================================================
From: zubair@mti.sgi.com (Zubair Hussain)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: *** FOR SALE Nikkor AIS 35 f/2 ***
Keywords: Nikkor, AIS
Date: 14 Dec 92 19:45:30 GMT
Distribution: ba
Organization: Silicon Graphics Computer Systems, Mountain View, California
NNTP-Posting-Host: zulu.mti.sgi.com
Originator: zubair@zulu.mti.sgi.com


 I have for sale a Nikkor AIS 35 f/2 lens in mint condition (less than
 6 mo old) with original box and papers.
 Asking $239. If interested please contact me at the following:

 email: zubair@mti.sgi.com
 voice: (415) 390-4143.
From: marc@milan.East.Sun.COM (Marc Thompson-Sun-Vienna VA-Systems Engineer)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: White Lightning (How Good?)
Date: 18 Dec 1992 17:51:42 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Distribution: world
Reply-To: marc@milan.East.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: milan.east.sun.com

I posted a question a while back about stobe systems.  Many respondents
mentioned White Lightning Mono units.  Which leads me to the following
questions:

1) How good are White Lightning units.

2) What are the true w/s ratings.
	The literature I sent for says the Ultra 1800 unit compares to
	2000w/s rated units from some other manufactures.  

	Has anyone know how close the 1800, 1200, and 600 units
	come to 1800ws, 1200ws, and 600ws, respectively?

3) What about service.  I service a problem since Paul Buff is the only
     place to get these units.

4) Does anyone have information on reliability of these units?  How
often do they break, etc.

Thanks,

Marc &&

Newsgroups: rec.photo