From: ah190@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Stuart Pearl)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Signed Deal - Sable & Unholy Rustproofing
Date: 13 Jan 1993 03:04:27 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc4.ins.cwru.edu


I know we routinely beat rustproofing to death, but there's an angle
that I don't recall seeing covered.  How effective are those methods
that use "existing" body holes for application instead of those which
require the drilling of application holes?  I'm talking about
techniques which use door and fender drain holes as spray access
points.

Also, what is the likelihood that compounds sprayed inside doors or
fenders will gum up power lock, window or antenna mechanisms?  Can
door mounted stereo speakers also be affected?

First off, let me agree partially with those out there who feel
rustproofing is a scam and waste of money - BUT, I'll only consider
this a possible waste under certain conditions.  If you live in a warm
climate, or even a snowy one in which road salt is used little or not
at all, or don't plan on keeping a car long or own one which has a lot
of composite materials (Saturn, "Vette," GM APV style vn, etc.) then
rustproofing is probably a waste.

But in my case where I keep cars 8 - 15 years (they become hand-me-
downs; see earlier post of car "dealing" mayhem) I feel it has been
beneficial except for one exception.  Keeping a car this long means
practicing some sort of long term sheet metal maintenance strategy.
Frequent car washes and a semi-heated garage figure prominently here.
And to complicate things, I live in Cleveland where they must drop a
ton of road salt each day for every vehicle on the road.  We also have
a great deal of temperature variance and the associated winter thawing
which results in a daily saltwater wash the moment you pull out of the
drive.  My feeling is that any barrier I can place between the car and
oxidation will have a positive effect 10 or more years down the road.

I used to have everything rustproofed - all my cars lasted a long time
and that seemed to validate the rustproofing decision.  However, the
last rustproofing job involved "hole drilling" which was done in a
manner that caused more rust than it was designed to prevent.  Because
the "applicator" improperly sealed the holes he drilled, every break
in the sheet metal was a starting point for rust .

My new Sable will arrive from the factory in 4 - 6 weeks and I'm
wrestling with the rustproofing decision.  The dealer does offer one
option although the high price sucks.  He sells a method which sprays
the "wet" honey-colored goop through those existing door and fender
drain holes.  In this manner the sheet metal is never broken.  He
further explained that because this compound always stays moist, it
never dries, cracks or separates in a way that will trap water between
it and the metal surface.  They only recommend reapplication every 3
years.

He further added that the black tar-like substances have a tendency to
do all the bad things discussed above.  Although I feel the dealer is
overpriced - no I DIDN'T offer him $2.37 over the factory invoice cost
of rustproofing (I do draw the line) - the concept of using existing
access points intrigued me.

Is anyone familiar with this concept?

-stu
-- 
                   ---===<<< Stuart Pearl >>>===---
                           Cleveland, Ohio
                      ah190@cleveland.freenet.edu
                         --------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos