HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: tomh@wes.on.ca (Tom Haapanen)
Subject: Auto Motor und Sport (was: Paging..ah Mr. Tom Happen!)
Organization: Waterloo Engineering Software
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 12:10:45 GMT

keys@starchild.ncsl.nist.gov (Lawrence B. Keys) writes:
> Sorry to occupy valuable band width, but for some reason or another
> i am not able to send e-mail to Tom Happen.

Hey, I think that's me!  :)

> Not to long ago, you mentioned in a post a German magazine
> (i think that it was called) "Auto und Motor".  I was interested
> in knowing if you have any subscription information available?
> Also, is this magazine written in English?

The magazine is in German, which is why I only occasionally buy it.  :)
Subscription information (deciphered from German):

	Auto Motor und Sport
	DPV
	Postfach 10 16 02
	2000 Hamburg 1
	Germany

International subscriptions appear to cost DEM 146.90 per year (26 issues).
Not cheap, but very interesting.  If only my German skills were better...

>        ---------------- FAHRVERGNUGEN FOREVER! --------------------            
Ausgezeichnet!

[ \tom haapanen    "i don't even know what street canada is on" -- al capone ]
[ tomh@wes.on.ca                   "trust the programmer" -- ansi c standard ]
[ waterloo engineering software      "to thine own self be true" -- polonius ]
From: greis@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Gayla Ann Greis)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: 1958 accessories wanted! not gif
Date: 18 Dec 1992 20:18:18 GMT
Organization: University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
Reply-To: greis@csd4.csd.uwm.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: 129.89.7.4
Originator: greis@csd4.csd.uwm.edu

From article <1992Dec9.184629.21672@alf.uib.no>, by edb17@bih.no:
> I would like to buy accessories for Volkswagen 1958 type 1.
> This is what I need :
> - spare wheel tool kit  - hat shelf - kamei accelerator pedal  - horn ring
> - steering column/ignition lock  - transmission shifter lock - door egde trim
> - speedometer with resetable odometer  - driver's side arm rest - bra
> - furnishing to make the frontseat possible to lay down - mini (venecia) blinds
> 

Well, I have a few of the items you're looking for (Hazet, door trim, speedo
w/ trip odo, and the Kamei seats) but none of its for sale... :-) Take heart
though. Its still all out there. The Kamei's are being sent to me from
Germany, and when I restore them (the frames have been painted and the
material is shot) I will try and mill out some identical plates and fit
them to regular lowback seats. If it works, I will post a note here about
it and offer the pattern. I won't know until summer when I get the seats,
and I will lose this acct in a few weeks, but I will make sure that I get a
note to the net as soon as I can!
DEG
Organization: Doctoral student, Industrial Administration, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 13:49:17 -0500 
From: Doug vanderVeen <dv0o+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: FAQ Where to buy Parts

To start of the FAQ this is my phone index of parts suppliers.  In 
order of appearance in the November '92 issue of  HotVW's.   These 
are the places I call.  If your favorite is missing  or  you  have 
comments about these drop me a line.

West Coast Metric             Free Catalog, they make  just  about 
24002 Frampton Ave. HVW       all of the  rubber  available.   And 
Harbor City, CA 90710         import much more.  A great source of
p (800)247-3202               restoration parts.
f (310)325-9733
h M-F 8-5

GEX                           An engine builder.   Never  actually 
(800) 423-1869                dealt with them, but If I needed  an 
                              engine quickly this is  one  of  the 
                              places I'd check out.

BFY Obsolete Parts            The name says it  all.   They  claim 
1460  N.  Glassell  HVW       the most complete a-c parts 
Orange CA 92667               inventory in the US.  No experience
p (714)639-4411               personally.  Please send comments.
f (714)997-2247
h M-F 10-6, Sa 10-4

Bill & Steve's                New & Used parts.  They specialize 
10464 Alondra Blvd.           in type III, but they have a full 
Bellflower, CA 90706          range of parts.  I have always found
p (800)258-4VWS               what I needed here at a reasonable 
p (310)867-1603               price
f (310)866-8196
h M-F 9-7, Sa 9-4, Su 10-3

ECI                           Another engine builder I would call 
360 E. Harrison               if I needed an engine in a hurry.
Corona, CA 91719
CA (800)734-4324
p  (800)966-9988

Gene Berg                     Good source for high quality parts.  
1725 N. Lime St.              Many are Gene Berg inventions.
Orange, CA 92665
p (714)998-7500
f (714)998-7528
h M-F 9-5:30

Car Custom                    Large performance parts retailer.  6 
915 W. Foothill Blvd.         page ad, and they never seem to have 
Azusa, CA 91702               what I need.
p (818)969-7967

Johnny's Speed and Chrome     Large retailer, mail order, and 
6411 Beach Blvd.              wholesale.  I usually find what I 
Buena Park, CA 90621-2896     need here, and there service is 
p (800)222-8982               fast.

Wolfsburg West                Restoration parts for bug and bus to 
601 E. Lambert Rd.            '67.  They manufacture a lot of 
La Habra, CA 90631            stuff.  I have never dealt with 
p (310)697-WEST               them; my cars are too new!
f (310)697-4876

That's my short list.  Note they are all in the Los Angeles area.  
Even when I lived in Pittsburgh, I found that shipping savings 
weren't worth the effort of dealing with anyone else.  If you have 
to mail-order, you might as well make it easy on yourself.

Bill and Steve's is invaluable for "junk yard" parts when there is 
no junk yard VW's within a thousand miles.

Please send comments and additions, and I will repost.

DvdV
dv0o@andrew.cmu.edu
(602)253-0501
2506 N. 9th St.
Phoenix, AZ 85006

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Re: Rabbit Speedo & Jetta Tranny & horn
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 20:09:21 GMT

In article <9hk2a6n@rpi.edu>, bossoj@aix.rpi.edu (Joseph Charles Bossolini) writes:
|> In article <1992Dec14.234605.28023@newsgate.sps.mot.com> mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw) writes:
|> 
|> [stuff deleted]
|> 
|> >You can also check the speedo by driving it with a reversible drill.  The 
|> >indicated speed will be 60 times the RPM rated on your drill all divided by
|> >the number appearing at the bottom of the speedo face. (60*RPM/NUMBER) which
|> >will be about 46 mph for a 1200 rpm drill.
|> >
|> >Mark
|> 
|> Will this formula work with non-VDO (i.e. non VW/Audi) speedos?
|> Also, are most VW/Audi speedos interchangeable??
|> 
|> I currently do not have access to any other VW/Audi speedos beside my own one
|> to answer this question myself!!

The method will work with any speedo, IF you know the design speed for the speedo
input cable.  The method of putting the speedo cable rate on the face plate seems 
to be particular to VDO.  The other approach is to find the design speed for the
speedo cable.  Most US and Japanese manufacturers use 1000 rev/mile, but the
European manufacturers vary all the way up to 1800 rev/mile.

A brute force way to determine your car's speedo cable rate would be to roll
the car while someone counts about 10 turns of the speedo.  Then use the distance
that the car was rolled in feet.  The speedo factor in number of revolutions
per mile will be 52800 divided by the number of feet rolled for 10 revs.

Usually you can swap speedo's within the same cluster design.  The VDO speedo's
also look like they might switch between some clusters, since they seem to have a 
two-screw mounting to the back plate (but you would have to change out the
face plates).

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: bossoj@aix.rpi.edu (Joseph Charles Bossolini)
Subject: High Mileage (was Re: VW Truck Question)
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 05:27:24 GMT

In article <1992Dec21.050652.6940@news.nd.edu> dfulton@handel.helios.nd.edu (Dave Fulton) writes:
>	By the way, 115,000 miles is nothing for a VW.  Just ask people
>on this group how many miles thier VW has, I bet you get thousands (at least
>a hundred) of responses from people bragging about their miles.
>
>					Dave Fulton

My 82 Audi 4000 diesel has 242,000 miles with no major engine work, except a new
water pump, clutch, and belts.

I hope to have it on the road when it turns over 300K (maybe in 1 1/2 or 2 
years!)

joe (bossoj@rpi.edu)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mucit@cs.rochester.edu (Bulent Murtezaoglu)
Subject: sludge in the manifold. pcv hoses? ('81 rabbit)
Organization: Computer Science Department University of Rochester
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1992 04:45:30 GMT


I pulled out the cold start valve the other day, and while it is 
functioning as it should I was surprised to find it coated with
oily sludge.  I doubt this is normal.  I suspect the oil is getting
to the manifold through the pcv hose.  Does anyone know a quick fix?
Would oil in the manifold cause white smoke in the exhaust? (yes
my mixture is fine; spark, I'm not so sure about).  The engine
seems to be running fine.

-M
From: keys@starchild.ncsl.nist.gov (Lawrence B. Keys)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: The Right Plug!
Date: 11 Dec 92 20:35:23 GMT
Organization: National Institute of Standards & Technology


With 32k miles on my 1990 GLI, i have been in search for the "right"
spark plug.  Well today i finally found what i've been looking for.

Let me give you a little background. The 1990 owners manual which came
with my car says use Bosch F6DTC.  The problem with this is that this
plug is for 16v engines classified as "PL".  My engine is classified as
"9A".  The Bently manual says use a different number (if i remember correctly
it was F6DSR.  When I went to the dealer they sold me the F6DTC.  I called
Bentley Publishing and they said "Listen to the owners manual & dealer".

Well before i installed the plugs that the dealer sold me i decided to
call the "VW customer service #".  Guess what, the Bentley manual is
correct.  The guy at VW Customer service said that for 16v engines
built form August 1989 - present are designated "9A" and the plugs 
for that engine have a part number of ZVP121086S.  So i call the dealer
and give them that number and "lo and behold" they've got them in stock
at $7.44/plug!

I wonder how many owners of VW's with the 2.0 liter 16v engines are
driving around with the wrong plug?  I wonder if it really makes any
difference?????
                                                  .  
                                                 /                
Larry                            __/    _______/_                 
keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov       /                  \               
                          _____     __     _____    \------- ===
            ----------- / ____/   /  /   /__  __/              \
         /     ___    /  / ___   /  /      / /    ____          |
        |    /      \/ /__ /  | /  /__  __/ /__ /       \      / 
        /___         \_______/ /_____/ /______/            ====OO
            \       /                           \       /         
                -                                   -
       ---------------- FAHRVERGNUGEN FOREVER! --------------------            
            The fact that I need to explain it to you indicates
            that you probably wouldn't understand anyway!
       ------------------------------------------------------------
From: dunham@mpd.tandem.com (Jerry Dunham)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: The PROBLEM with VW today...
Date: 11 Dec 92 21:51:31 GMT
Reply-To: dunham@mpd.tandem.com (Jerry Dunham)
Distribution: na
Organization: Tandem Computers, Inc., ISD

In article <1992Dec10.205823.16282@linus.mitre.org> jdouglas@MITRE.org (Jason Douglas) writes:
>
>
> 1.  The bug was not quite as radical in the 50s and 60s as you think.  It 
>was only strange when compared to American iron.   There were other rear 
>engined air cooled cars in the old days, like the Renault Dauphin, the 
>Citroen 2CV (what a dog, but they have their followers), the corvair (now 
>that was far out -  a 185 hp version in the 60s),  and even the Tucker (I 
>think).  AIr cooled VWs were and are damn good cars, that succeeded where 
>others failed because they were better, not because they were wierd.

Well, you're close, anyway.  The Renault Dauphin (and most other Renaults
of that period) was rear-engined, but it was water-cooled.  The Citroen
was air-cooled (2 cylinders!), but it was front-engined and front wheel
driven.  The Corvair and Tucker were a bit more similar to the Typ I.  Of
course you could invoke the 356 Porsche as another similar car, but that
would really be cheating.

If you want to look at similarities of technology, my Vanagon Wasserboxer
is a Subaru running down the road in reverse!


-- 
Jerry Dunham                   DoF #1.5             dunham_jerry@tandem.com
Tandem Computers, Inc.                                dunham@mpd.tandem.com
Austin, TX                                                    (512)244-8598
                 This opinion intentionally left blank.
From: tedcrum@garnet.berkeley.edu (Ted Crum)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Rabbit GTI vs. Golf GTI
Date: 15 Dec 1992 00:41:39 GMT
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
Distribution: york
NNTP-Posting-Host: garnet.berkeley.edu

Pay no attention to the wiseguys who tell you there never was a "Golf-GTI",
they were probably only-children. The 83-84 cars are real cheap now, and 
perhaps to be collector's items.

-TC
Organization: Doctoral student, Industrial Administration, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 11:42:03 -0500 
From: Doug vanderVeen <dv0o+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: VW giggle

A few years ago my Fastback leaked a lot of water and ruined the
speakers on the back shelf.  I took the speakers out so I'd have more
room in the trunk, but I left the grills there to cover the holes.  Next
summer someone tried to steal my stereo system.  By then there was no
stereo, and when they pulled off the speaker grills there were no
speakers.

DvdV
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: william@castle.ed.ac.uk (William Warburton)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: [A] Karmann Ghia's & Don't split the group!
Date: 17 Dec 92 12:15:46 GMT
Reply-To: W.Warburton@ed.ac.uk
Organization: Edinburgh University Computing Service


 Hi,
	Two things to say:

 1) Someone was asking about prices for Karmann Ghias- the guy who
	looks after my '71 camper has a couple for sale in Edinburgh,
	Scotland. He wants around 5000 GB pounds ($8000) for the '73
	Auto (looks very nice) and 3000 ($4800) for the one that needs
	substantial bodywork. Parts seem to be steep: he said that a
	replacement front indicator lens would be 80GBP ($125).

 2) Don't split the group!

	W.

+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: tomh@wes.on.ca (Tom Haapanen)
Subject: Re: Two Newsgroups or One?
Organization: Waterloo Engineering Software
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 02:22:46 GMT

> Ralph.C.Lindenfeld@dartmouth.edu (Ralph C. Lindenfeld) wrote:
>>   I'd like to see the newsgroup break up into two.

jgladu@bcm.tmc.edu (grungy (John F. Gladu)) writes:
> I agree.  I have three air-cooleds and my wife has a wasserboxer and I
> spend most of my time wading through the H2O stuff to get to what I want...

So after the split, you'll real rec.autos.air-cooled, while your wife reads
rec.autos.water-cooled?  And will general Vanagon discussion go in .water-
cooled or in .air-cooled?  Hey, in Europe you could even buy the Vanagon with
a 1.6L diesel (Rabbit/Golf) engine...

I still can't believe that we can't just live together in one group!

[ \tom haapanen    "i don't even know what street canada is on" -- al capone ]
[ tomh@wes.on.ca                   "trust the programmer" -- ansi c standard ]
[ waterloo engineering software      "to thine own self be true" -- polonius ]
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: scottv@aix.rpi.edu (Vaughan K. Scott)
Subject: Re: Air Cooled FAQ
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1992 16:01:50 GMT

well, you're in luck.  The origonal Bible/Idiot's Book was written by John Muir, published by John Muir Publications.  John passed away a while back, before
he could wirte the Idiot's Book for water-cooled VW's.  Someone else did, 
and it's appropriately title how to keep your VW Rabbit/Scirocco/Jetta Alive.
It is also put out by John Muir Publications.  If you can't find it at your
local bookstore, you can write them at:

	John Muir Publications, Inc.
	Box 613
	Santa Fa, NM 87501

	The author is Richard Sealey, and it covers '74-84.  I would expect
them to have manuals for more recent cars as well, if your car falls outside
of this range.  Good Luck!

scottv@rpi.edu
Vaughan Scott	if it's too fast, you're too old
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: dali@stein.u.washington.edu (David A. Lee)
Subject: Re: Need advice on 1st Beetle, please
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1992 08:55:50 GMT

In article <1h07foINNoma@agate.berkeley.edu> tedcrum@garnet.berkeley.edu (Ted Crum) writes:
>
>I like the non-super cars from '68 to '73(?). You get 12 volts, torsion bar
>suspension, a carbureter, cv joint rear suspension. Look for a sunroof.
>
>-Ted Crum

'69 was the first year they went with dual-circuit brake systems.
In '71 they included an electric fan to help the heat or defrost
along.  With my 1970 Squareback I just missed it...  :(

David

-- 
"There are hundreds of tiny balls in every machine, and hundreds of machines
in every pachinko parlour, and a pachinko parlour on every block in every
town in Japan; so there are billions of little balls falling forever, like a
chromium-plated hailstorm that never melts."  - from "Clive James in Japan"
From: bugman@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Matthew Ethan Soiney)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: [A] Opinions on 72 Bug Fate, please
Date: 15 Dec 1992 17:54:09 GMT
Organization: Computing Services Division, University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
NNTP-Posting-Host: 129.89.7.4

In article <1992Dec15.152201.8183@nntp.nta.no> BARANSKI@veamf1.nusc.navy.mil (Jim Baranski) writes:
>More Questions:

>
>MY brake and clutch Pedal flop forward when I'm not stepping on them.  What's
>the problem, and some possible solutions?  I was told that there is a stop on
>the pedals which is supposed to keep them from flopping forward, but that the
>floor under the stop is rusted out.

there is a stop in front of the pedals..front is toward the front of 
the car.  it is a small piece if "angle iron" which is held on the 
floor with a bolt.  the piece of metal is about 2 inches long.  The
pedals rest on this metal.  when this rusts away, the pedals are 
free to flop all the way foward.  my brothers squareback is like
this.  it is hard to drive this way.  i once repaired a beetle with
the same problem.  we simply rivted a piece of steel in the rusted
area.  we then bolted a piece of angle iron in front of the pedals.
the location wasn't quite right, bet it was better thann nothing.
since we were selling it as a winter car, we didn't want to replace
the entire floor.

>The heater/defrost vents for the windshield lead from the end of the heater
>channels in the side of the floor through three small hoses to three vents in
>under the windshield.  Has anyone ever considered if one large hose would work
>better then three small hoses, or tried this?  The one large hose would run
>along the top of the dashboard behind the dash board, either to all three
>vents, or just to the main vents.  What do you think?
>
never tried this.

matt   bugman@csd4.csd.uwm.edu

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: gajewski@napier.cs.dal.ca (Andy)
Subject: How to stop oil in air filter (WAS K&N air filter - Quicky question)
Organization: Math, Stats & CS, Dalhousie University, Halifax, NS, Canada
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 16:08:40 GMT

Your response has been saved in ~/dead.letter

Your article/letter follows:
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject:How to stop oil in air filter (WAS K&N air filter - Quicky question)
Distribution: world

In <10DEC199222224592@jane.uh.edu> eleeaax@jane.uh.edu (Maurice Slot) writes:

>In article <andrei.724030006@namao>, andrei@namao.uucp (Andrei Chichak) writes...
>>I would suggest the K&N route....BUT....it sounds like you're fixing the
>>symptom.   Might I suggest a can of Forte' oil treatment, it sounds like
>>your rings are gummed up.   Considering that these engines are not known
>>for cylinder wear and they do have forged pistons straight out of the
>                                    ^^^^^^
>is that really true? gee....
>>box, I would say the rings are carboned up or you have revved the shit out
>>of the engine for far too many nanoseconds.   Our '83 GTi has ~200,000Km
>>and it is not pampered and it blows no oil.
>> 
>>You have a bigger problem than a wet paper filter.

>I can't say I agree here. I had a new '87 fox that did the same thing, and I
>did never figure out why. It did, though, backfire once in a blue moon (when
>starting) that seemed to have something to do with it. My current '85 scirocco
>still gets an oil stain on the air filter, but it's been running great for
>75,000 miles (now at 99000). The problem went away for the most part after
>installing that plastic splash shield under the valve cover.
>> 
>>Andrei Chichak
>>andrei@namao.ucs.ualberta.ca
>> 

Well, one thing is true, I do rew the pistons out of my car, but
it still pulls strong and burns no oil. It just flows into my air
filter box. Since I already have the splash guard, what would you
people think of this:

Putting somekind of collecting beaker on the hose so that the
oil collects there and not in the air filter. A diagram best 
describes it:

	---------------------------------------
to air filter		the hose		from valve cover
	-----------------	--------------
			|	|
			|beaker	|
			|	|
			--------

So if the oil does make it to the hose, it would drip down
into this beaker before it gets to drip into the air filter.
Does this hose have to be totally vaccum selaed, or will
duckttape suffide?

Thanks for yor opinions,
ANdy

-- 
---....-------------****----*******-) GTI FUN-atic                      o  
--. \/ .-----GTI---******--*********)         Don't forget to bike:     ,-\
--.\/\/.-----------******--*********)  (and sail and windsurf and ski)  0\-0
---....-------------****----*******-) gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca,goaway@ac.dal.ca
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: news@massey.ac.nz (USENET News System)
Subject: [A] front fenders
Organization: DSIR, Palmerston North, New Zealand
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 92 02:39:49 GMT

In a recent VolksWorld magazine there was an article about a late model
Beetle (True Blue, I think) that had had the front fenders changed to
the older style with sloping headlights.  I was thinking about doing
this to my bug, and using a pair of those modern looking replacement
headlights that you can buy that still slope backwards.  Has anybody
done this?  If so, how easy is it to make the fenders fit?  Will the
running boards fit to the fenders properly?  Are there any problems
that I can expect if I do this?  I'll be using one of those front bumpers
with the indicators built in, does anybody have any adverse opinions on
what the effect of mixing the old and new styles of guards, headlights
and fenders would be?
 
Thanks in advance for any replies.

Colin Wilson-Salt.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw