HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: dancer@drycas.club.cc.cmu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.food.sourdough
Subject: Re: getting starter in Australia ?
Date: 13 Aug 92 18:11:51 GMT
Organization: Carnegie Mellon Computer Club

In article <1992Aug13.010124.19480@trl.oz.au>, rye@medici.trl.OZ.AU (Rye Senjen) writes:
> I have been reading this news group for a while,
> and am pretty keen to try, but where to get
> a starter from ? I went to the firebrand bakery here
> in melbourne which bakes only sourdough bread,the best
> in fact, hoping to get some of their starter, but understandably 
> they wouldn't part with any of it. Is there anybody in Australia
> taht would shre their starter with me ?????

Well, I am not in Australia, but I am in the process of drying a lot of
starter. I could send some to you if you are interested, just send me email
and I'll send you my address.

Though, I wonder what customs will think of a white powder?

---*---*---*---*---*---*---*---*---*---*---*---*---*---*---*---*---*---*---
Dream Dancer                               dancer@drycas.club.cc.cmu.edu
aka                                        dancer@acm.rpi.edu
Martha Underwood                             Four cats and a
                                             burmese python
Take care and Blessed Be
Newsgroups: rec.food.sourdough
From: grady@fraser.sfu.ca (A. Brian Grady)
Subject: Re: kneading stretch test discovery.
Organization: Simon Fraser University, Burnaby, B.C., Canada
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 19:34:24 GMT

dadams@cray.com (David Adams) writes:


>Here is a discovery I made this very morning before comming in to
>work:

> [desciption deleted]

>I discovered that I could quit kneading after about 1/3 of the
>time I had previously supposed.  (10 or 15 min for one loaf
>instead of the 30-45 min I was doing and never meeting the
>test before.)  Needless to say this makes it much easier to
>make a loaf.  The effort to knead a loaf is much less than
>I had suppossed.
>---
>--David C. Adams  Statistician  Cray Research Inc.  dadams@cray.com
>___________________________________________________________________
>       member--Minnesotans for Global Warming.

Wow, 30 to 45 minutes!  The 10 to 15 minutes you mention is much more
in line with what I've been doing for a few years with white and
whole-wheat and multigrain breads.  My guideline (very roughly)
is to mix flour with liquid until I find it too hard to mix with
my wooden paddle.  This usually uses up 2/3 to 3/4 of the flour.
Then I knead until all the extra flour is absorbed, and this usually
takes 10 to 15 minutes; longer when I make 4 loaves with 6 cups
liquid to 18 cups flours.  
Come to think of it, I suppose I also know how the dough feels 
when I have given it enough flour... so I have my own version of the
stretch test after all.  Consider this an independent confirmation of
the Laurel's Kitchen advice then.
 
Brian
-- 
Brian Grady 
grady@sfu.ca -- Psychology Dept, Simon Fraser University, Burnaby, BC.
From: fnsjc@acad3.alaska.edu
Newsgroups: rec.food.sourdough
Subject: need "old starter" faq
Date: 14 Aug 92 23:00:41 GMT
Organization: University of Alaska Fairbanks

Help!  I first signed on to this group yesterday and saw a great 
description of how to revive old starter, but before I could get to a 
printer to print it (it was quite long) it was bumped off the 
directory.  Can anyone help?  Thanks
 
Newsgroups: rec.food.sourdough
From: linda@oak.math.ucla.edu (Linda Wald)
Subject: Re: Bread machines
Summary: my Breadmaker Sourdough recipe
Organization: UCLA Mathematics Department
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 92 04:17:39 GMT


Here is the recipe that I've been using to make sourdough in my
breadmaker. Some notes:
     1. I'm using the Russian starter, which I got from David
      Adams. I chose it because it has the reputation for being the
      fastest growing starter.
     2. I'm using the DAK R2D2 breadmaker, so you may need to
      adjust quantities.
     3. This is basically the World Bread recipe from the FAQ. I
      proof in my turned off oven; the pilot seems to provide just the
      right warmth.
     4. I used the Gold Medal Better for Bread flour. I haven't
      experimented with whole wheat, or extra gluten, or ... yet.

Step 1: Remove the starter from the refrigerator and transfer it
        to a large bowl.
        Add 1/2 c. flour and 1/2 c. warm water
        Proof 3 hrs. (approx.)

Step 2: Add 3 c. flour and 2 c. warm water.
        Proof 6-8 hrs. (approx.)
 
Step 3: Put 1 c. starter back in the refrigerator!
        Dump in the breadmaker:
          3 c. flour
          1 Tbl. sugar
          1 tsp. salt
          1 Tbl butter (at room temp. or melted)
          2 Tbl. dried milk powder
          3 c. starter (or 2 c. starter and 1/2 c. water)
        Hit start!

This makes a dense (but not bricklike) loaf. When I gave it a
longer rising time (by hand), I got a lighter bread. Does anybody
know of a breadmaker that lets you program the rising times etc.?
I'd be interested! 

Linda Wald
linda@math.ucla.edu
 
Xref: sparky rec.food.sourdough:157 ba.food:2698
From: loupy@roo.corp.sgi.com (Tom Loupy)
Newsgroups: rec.food.sourdough,ba.food
Subject: Re: San Luis Sourdough
Date: 13 Aug 92 02:53:42 GMT
Distribution: ca
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc.

In article <Bsvq3v.Lst@well.sf.ca.us>, mharper@well.sf.ca.us (Michael J. Harper) writes:
|> As a graduate of Cal Poly SLO, I became quite addicted to San Luis Sourdough.
|> I have found out that SLODough is now being distributed outside of SLO.  So far,
|> my only sightings have been in the Central Valley.  I heard an unsubstantiated
|> rumor that SLODough is available in a Save Mart in the Bay Area, but I know not
|> where.  Does anyone know of any outlets for SLODough in the Bay Area?
|> 
|> Michael J. Harper
|> mharper@well.sf.ca.us


FYI...."Cal Poly SLO" stands for California Polytechnical (Cal Poly) University in San Luis Obispo (SLO), CA...just incase anyone was wondering...Hence the phrase SLODough.   Yes I am interested in finding some too.

Tom Loupy
Silicon Graphics
Moutain View, CA.
email - loupy@sgi.com
From: lliou@sdcc3.ucsd.edu (Lily Liou )
Newsgroups: rec.food.sourdough
Subject: Re: FAQ's
Date: 12 Aug 92 20:56:06 GMT
Organization: University of California, San Diego

Hi everyone who sent me requests for sourdough starters!
I'm sorry that I will not be able to get them out until
the end of August, as I'm leaving for a trip now.  I
apologize for the delay, but I promise that they'll get
to you, and it will be worth the wait!

-Lily
lliou@sdcc3.ucsd.edu
Newsgroups: rec.pets,alt.best.of.internet
From: rslade@fraser.sfu.ca (Robert Slade)
Subject: Re: Sutpid instructions (was: Jonny Cat Litter / Ferrets)
Organization: Simon Fraser University, Burnaby, B.C., Canada
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 17:41:13 GMT

(Yes, I know it's crossposted.  I only read a.b.o.i.)

I won this chair.  At a computer show.

It looks vaguely like Bill Shatner's chair on the Enterprise.

It's worth more than my car.  (As a matter of fact, it's worth more
than my car and all four of the old computers I have.)  I'd possibly
be interested in trading it in on a high end system with laser
printer.

however, the matter at hand here is the "Operation Manual" that comes
with the thing.  (Documentation?  For a *chair*?  Well, when it has
"computerized massage" and a stereo system ...)

Written and translated in Japan (where the chair was made), it starts
out:
*WARNING* - To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or
injury to persons:

and goes on in the general "somewhat off", not quite grammatical
manner we have all come to recognize.  Including:

" ... Close supervision is necessary when the ... chair is used ... on
... children ..."

"Do not use atachments ... "  (attached to what?)

"Do not ... carry your massage chair by the power cord." (it weighs 80
pounds!)

"Comfortable clothing is recommended while using your massage chair
..."

And my wife's all time favourite:

"Do not force any part of your body into the back of the chair where
the rollers move."

The mind boggles.
 
===================
Vancouver          ROBERTS@decus.ca         | "Power users think
Institute for      Robert_Slade@sfu.ca      |  'Your PC is now
Research into      rslade@cue.bc.ca         |  Stoned' is part of
User               p1@CyberStore.ca         |  the DOS copyright
Security           Canada V7K 2G6           |  line." R. Murnane


Newsgroups: rec.pets
From: sauron@femto.engr.mun.ca (Patrick Ryan)
Subject: Re: Request for Newf. Info.
Organization: Memorial University of Newfoundland
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 1992 23:41:18 GMT

jim@uvmark.uucp (Jim Todhunter) writes:

>Well, I suppose the subject says it all.  I would like some information
>about Newfs from those with firsthand experience.  Specifically,
Well, though I can't presume to speak for other Newfoundlanders, I ca
let you know about me, specifically.

>   What is their temperment like?

Vile.

>   Are they people oriented?

No.

>   How are they with children?

Great.  I can get most kids to run away screaming within seconds.

>   What are their space and exercise requirements?

None.  Computer and a comfy chair.

>   How long is their life expectancy?

Probably pretty short once the flamethrowers do their work...

>   Would a new Newf be a suitable addition to a home already inhabited by
>   an older (7.5yr) old male Golden?

Well, if you get us young, we're pretty impressionable...

>   Is their anything else I should want to know about them?

Known tendancies to feel that the world owes them a living.  Will only
actually do anything 10/52nds of the time, expecting you to pick up the
slack the other 42/52nds.
(With apologies to anyone else from Newfoundland)

--
   ,---, ,---, ,-----, /  Of course I said it!  Do you / sauron@ / o o
  /   / /   /    /    / think  MUN  even acknowledges / femto.  /   v
 /---` /---/    /    / my existence, let alone allow / mun.ca  /   `-'
/     /   /    /    / me to speak for them?/chris@zeus rented this space
Newsgroups: rec.pets
From: cboyd@irus.rri.uwo.ca (Cameron Boyd)
Subject: Re: rabbits spraying, how to stop?
Organization: University of Western Ontario, London
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 22:23:44 GMT

In article <1992Aug17.192721.10116@hubcap.clemson.edu> jlysagh@hubcap.clemson.edu (james joseph lysaght) writes:
>horrendous odor in my home.  Also, surgery to remove their scent glands
>is out of the question.  I am not paying $30 to alter a $3 pet.  Any
>other solutions?
>
>How about stapleing ther nose shut so they can not smell the cat scent
>in the place?
>
>Jim

From your posts it is clear that you don't really care about the rabbits.
If you're not willing to spend "$30 for a $3" pet, then you shouldn't
have such a pet.  There is a lot of care, time and money involved with
a sensitive animal such as a rabbit.  On the monetary side alone, it
will cost you more than a few dollars for bedding and food for the rabbits,
and certainly more than $30 for the necessary spaying/neutering.

Perhaps I'm wrong, and you really do care for these animals, but it
doesn't sound like it.  If you do, please make it seem like you do in your
posts.  If you don't, then please make sure that they make it into the
hands of someone who is willing to give them what they need.

Now that I've flamed you, possibly unnecessarily, this is my advice.
The spraying is likely induced by hormones.  If they are males, this
is almost certainly the case.  Get them neutered.  It will take several
weeks for the hormones to dissipate, and then they will be much calmer
animals, and will almost certainly stop spraying.  There really shouldn't
be any strong rabbit smell.  If there is, aside from the spraying, you
might want to take the rabbits to the vet.  On the other hand, this will
certainly cost more than $3.

Cam
From: njl@drutx.ATT.COM (LaRocheNJ)
Newsgroups: rec.pets
Subject: Re: bunny: more litter training problems
Summary: Here's what you need to do...
Date: 22 Aug 92 21:41:35 GMT
Organization: AT&T, Denver, CO

In article <mjc.714460293@NL.CS.CMU.EDU>, mjc+@cs.cmu.edu (Monica Cellio) writes:

First, put Stuart in his cage and leave him there for a week.  (I know, I
know, but it really will be harder on you than on him.  He'll survive a
week of "imprisonment."  And you can take him out to groom or cuddle--just
don't let him run free, unless you have a safe place outside to do so.

Meanwhile, clean the corner he's been using thoroughly.  First remove the
vinegar, using plain water.  (A rented steamer will help greatly.)
Then get one of the really good odor and stain removers that uses enzymes
("Nature's Miracle" for example).  Follow the directions carefully, and
again use the steamer to suck up the resulting liquid.   (The enzymes turn
the dried urine to a liquid that can be rinsed out, but if any is left
behind, it dries back as urine, so it is essential to remover all of it.)

When he is has faithfully used the litter box in his cage for several days
straight, put a board or piece of furniture or something at an angle over
the corner so he can't get to it.  Then let him out and see if he behaves.
Granted, you have to move the "fence" to use the door, but if you put him
back in his cage whenever you aren't there, you can move the fence for
others and for yourself before you leave.  After a couple of weeks, if he
has behaved, try him without the fence.

If all else fails, there is one thing that I think would work, but I
haven't been able to locate any--it's called a "snapper," and when set,
makes a loud "snap!" when disturbed, but is harmless (unlike mouse traps,
for example).  By setting one or more of these, I think a rabbit would
quickly learn to avoid a particular corner.  (Of course, someone may have a
heart attack when they open the door...)

IF ANYONE KNOWS WHERE TO OBTAIN THESE, PLEASE LET ME KNOW!!!

Good luck!  And do let me know how this works out.

Nancy LaRoche (HRS)
att!drutx!njl
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: pyron@skndiv.dseg.ti.com (Dillon Pyron)
Subject: Re: giving heartworm pills
Reply-To: pyron@skndiv.dseg.ti.com
Organization: TI/DSEG VAX Support
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 14:46:51 GMT


In article <108590010@hplred.HP.COM>, johnson@hplred.HP.COM (Renee Johnson) writes:
>/ hplred:rec.pets.dogs / tachaimov@hou.amoco.com (Tom Chaimov) /  1:01 pm  Aug 12, 1992 /
>We've been giving our 9 month-old doggies
>daily Filaribits, too.  I think that the daily ritual
>of giving them their pills with breakfast every
>morning prevents me from forgetting.  I think
>I'd be much more likely to forget if I'd already
>given  them their medicine earlier in the month.
>And besides, the kids like their Filaribits so much,
>it's like they get a doggy treat every morning!
>
>Tom
>----------
>
In much the same way, we give Filaribits to our 8-year old pups every night. 
It's so much a part of the nightly ritual that the only time they missed was
when we forgot to pack their goodies for a trip.  The vet said "One miss in 7
years, I don't think there will be a problem"

And they won't let us forget, either!!!!!
--
Dillon Pyron                      | The opinions expressed are those of the
TI/DSEG Lewisville VAX Support    | sender unless otherwise stated.
(214)462-3556 (when I'm here)     |
(214)492-4656 (when I'm home)     |"Do something different, DISAPPEAR"
pyron@skndiv.dseg.ti.com          |  "DISAPPEAR"
                                     _A Day On Earth_
                                     Brave Combo

Xref: sparky rec.pets.dogs:9657 co.general:1148
From: yholbroo@nyx.cs.du.edu (Yash Holbrook)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs,co.general
Subject: Re: Front Range heartworm outbreak
Date: 13 Aug 92 22:04:52 GMT
Distribution: co
Organization: Nyx, Public Access Unix at U. of Denver Math/CS dept.

>... If an infected dog is bitten by still another mosquito, the insect
>becomes capable of transferring the disease to other insects and
>animals.

What I want to know, when you say "insects and other animals," is whether
other animals includes humans, particularly children.  Any info?
From: boucher@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Teresa Boucher)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: DOG WITH CANCER
Date: 19 Aug 92 20:32:53 GMT
Reply-To: boucher@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Teresa Boucher)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

through the mill with my dog "Poppers" who was very sick and I know
what you and your family must be going through.  Although our dog was
not diagnosed with cancer, at the time we thought it was life threatening.

My gut feeling is as follows:  I would not want to undergo the therapy
you speak of for the small amount of time it would buy me.  I would
want to spend my last days, weeks, free of this type of treatment if
I knew it would make me feel lousy and I would be sick much of the time.
I would like the remaining quality of life to be good.  By the tone
of your post, I feel as if you have also made this decision but need
reassurances.  I would like to support you in saying that I feel you
have done all that you can in the interest of your pets health care.
I would at this point make my pet comfortable (medicate for pain, give
him the best care at home you can provide and comfort him and love him).

I know this next part is going to be hard for you to read, so I apologize
in advance.  If it comes to the point that he is in extreme pain - put
him to sleep.  I speak from experience when I say I know this will be
hard.  I stayed with my 13 year old dog (Shilou) while they injected
him and put him to rest.  It was by far the hardest thing I have ever
had to do - BUT I DON'T REGRET IT.  I felt it was the least I could
do for a loyal companion whom I loved.

Last, Go with your feelings.  I'm sure you will make the right the decision.
God bless you and your pet.

TRESE
From: garrison@kodak.com (Laurie Garrison)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: help with retriever problem
Date: 18 Aug 92 14:25:56 GMT
Reply-To: garrison@kodak.com (Laurie Garrison)
Organization: Image Processing Algorithms Laboratory, Eastman Kodak Co.


i posted this question before, but i got no replies so i am
trying again.  i have a three year old golden named Indy.  
this is the problem:  Indy does not destroy anything when
i am not home.  when i *am* home, Indy seems to spend all of her
time looking for things to pick up and eat, like socks, underwear, 
used kleenix, shirts, remote controls, my glasses, etc.  if i don't catch her, she EATS them.  as in *gone*. she has eaten two pairs of my glasses, numerous socks etc, nails, one remote including the battery...i am getting
quite worried about the state of her digestive tract... :)  

i have tried setting her up by lacing a sock with tabasco sauce, or
bitter apple.  it didn't faze her, i think she liked it.  i yell at her
when i catch her in the act of picking it up, and i take it away with a
stern 'NO' if i catch her after the fact.  she has been to obedience school,
i take her for walks etc, and she gets plenty of attention from me, maybe
too much :)  she *is* home alone for 10 hours a day though :(  
i assume she is doing this for MORE attention.  she is a good, obedient 
dog otherwise!

two questions:  
1. how do i stop this behavior???  i now live with a
new roomate who does not appreciate Indy's behavior...i am
waiting for the day Indy eats one of her favorite shirts...

2.  when Indy has something big enough in her mouth so that it sticks out,
she gives it up to me willingly with no problem.  however,
if it fits in her mouth, she won't give it up no matter what.
i am not strong enough to pry her mouth open, for awhile i was
leading her to the kitchen and showed her the treat box at which 
point she would spit it out and she would get the treat.  this seems to have
rewarded the behavior and now she makes sure she swallows the thing
*before* we get to the kitchen...and she expects a treat!  how do i
teach her to give up what is in her mouth???

sorry this is so long.  i have no idea what to try next.  any
suggestions would be appreciated :)  

laurie

ps. no flames about my retriever not retrieving please...
	she is my companion dog and she does a great job of it!
	(when she's not eating my stuff, that is)


-------
The more I know, the less I understand
All the things I thought I'd figured out, 	
I have to learn again...
				- Don Henley
From: schalene@sequent.com (Schalene Dagutis)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: new golden puppy (again?)
Date: 21 Aug 92 16:06:34 GMT
Article-I.D.: sequent.1992Aug21.160634.29909
Distribution: usa
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems Inc.

In article <1271@niktow.canisius.edu> mcconnel@niktow.canisius.edu (Jeff Mcconnell) writes:
>
>	We have just adopted a new golden retriever puppy (actually
>it's been two weeks already), and he's been a dream.  There are a
>couple of questions that I have that most books just don't seem
>to answer.  First some quick background.

Congratulations!

>	Now for my questions:
>
>2) He has been holding himself through the night, but there doesn't
>seem to be any connection between when he gets let out last and when
>he wakes up in the morning.  Barney gets his last meal and water about
>6:30, and is usually out twice after that.  My second question is when
>can I expect him to sleep later than 6:00 am?  Is there anything that
>can be done to encourage him to sleep later.  I've tried putting him to
>bed after mid-night, but that seems to make him get up before 6am.
>
I think that there are people on the net who can address your first
question much better than I; so I'll leave it alone.  I thought I'd
respond your second question since we've just been through this with
our 7.5 month old pup.  In fact, I asked many of the same questions!
Barney will eventually get used to your schedule.  It took our dog,
Max, a couple of months.  He'd wake up between 3:00 a.m. and 3:30 a.m.
and be all ready for the day ahead.  It made for one tired human.
After I was sure that his cries at this time of night were for
attention rather than "relief," I ignored them.  At about 3.5 months
old he began to sleep until the alarm went off.  He's now so attuned
to our wake-sleep schedule that when we vary -- like stay up later --
he trots off to the bedroom and goes to sleep, at our normal time.  

The only thing he hasn't quite figured out is weekends.  He wakes up
on Saturday as if it were a weekday.  On Sunday, he sleeps until we
wake up and on Monday, we have to wake him up.  Its like he knows
weekends consist of two mornings -- which ones are the problem!

So I guess the end result of this overly wordy post is....eventually,
Barney will become adjusted to your schedule.....in the meantime we
humans lose a little sleep.

Good luck, schalene
From: kathleen.brewer@cutting.hou.tx.us (Kathleen Brewer) 
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: WANTED King Charles Cavilier Spaniel
Date: 19 Aug 92 07:38:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: The Cutting Edge - Houston, TX - 713-466-1525
Reply-To: kathleen.brewer@cutting.hou.tx.us (Kathleen Brewer) 

TO: may@oasys.dt.navy.mil

DM>After doing our homework, our family has  developed the total desire
DM>to have a King Charles Cavilier Spaniel.  We got really excited....
DM>falling in love....with the pet we were to embrase as "family".  Then
DM>we began to call breeders in the N.E....and found we were not prepared
DM>for the $800-1000 going rate.  Since my daughter is the one buying this
DM>pet...she was greatly "SHOCKED"(though she is prepared to pay something).

After reading your post, I checked with a friend of mine who breeds this
dog. She sells hers starting at $850.00 and has a waiting list.
Occasionally she gets a mismarked pup that she will sell for around
$500.00. Since Cavaliers are not a popular breed she said that the
prices quoted to you are within the normal range for the breed. You
might want to think about a different breed of dog.

Kathleen.Brewer@cutting.hou.tx.us
---
 . OLX 2.1 . It's only a hobby ... only a hobby ... only a
                                                                                                                        
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs