HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: D1SAR@VM1.CC.UAKRON.EDU (Steve Rimar)
Subject: Pickup bed cover
Organization: The University of Akron
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 12:10:43 GMT

I have been thinking about building my own pickup bed cover.  Has anyone
else been involved in the construction of their own cover?
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
*                                                                       *
*  STEVE RIMAR                       INTERNET: D1SAR@VM1.CC.UAKRON.EDU  *
*  INFORMATION SERVICES              BITNET:   D1SAR@AKRONVM            *
*  THE UNIVERSITY OF AKRON                                              *
*  AKRON, OHIO  44325           "TOO MUCH OF A GOOD THING IS WONDERFUL" *
*                                                                       *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
From: uznerk@mcl.ucsb.edu (Andrew Krenz)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 240Z-280Z Problems
Date: 13 Nov 92 03:46:36 GMT
Article-I.D.: mcl.uznerk.721626396

In <403@rd1.interlan.com> tavernin@rm1.interlan.com (Victor Tavernini) writes:

>I'm thinking of buying a 240Z, 260Z, or 280Z and was wondering if any
>specific model/year had any serious problems ... besides rust :-)

>Thanks,

>Victor Tavernini
>Racal-Datacom, Inc.


I don't own a Z now but I used to.  Anyway, here goes:

The early 240's were probably the best there ever were.  '70 and '71    
specifically.  Don't get a '72 because they had a lot more smog equipment
on them and they're not as powerful.  DON'T get a 260.  Period.  As far
as the 280's go, the *later* the better.  Mine was a '78, the last year
before they went to the ZX body.  Anyway, the first 280's (I believe they
came out in '75) had their share of fuel injection glitches.  Most of
the bugs were worked out by '78 and my car never had any problems.  It did
have a blown exhaust manifold gasket though, and every time you dipped
into the gas pedal you would hear a loud exhaust leak "ticking" sound.
It cost about $300 to fix, and the mechanic (which was a Z specialist) said
it was a common ailment in Z's. 

Keep in mind that the 280 is really a wholly differenet car.  The engine is
bigger, but the car itself is actually about 300 pounds heavier.  The non-
assisted steering is a pain in the ass in parking lots.  Also, don't
expect good gas mileage.  My car's original owner (my neighbor) kept
gas mileage records ever since 1980.  The car typically got 12-13 mpg
city driving, and was always kept in excellent running shape.  Mine had
the 5 speed but I didn't do much highway driving.  I suppose one other
thing with old Z's is that I've never seen one that didn't have a cracked
dashboard.  I just got a dash cover for mine though :)

Other than that though, it was a great little car.  THe engine ran as 
smoothly as any new car's and purred like a kitten.  That was the whole
problem though:  its too small.  I found it too unpractical for my
purposes in terms of person hauling.   I don't know if that's why you want
to buy one though :)  I find my new car much better in that respect.  :)

Good luck...

|--------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Andrew Krenz       | Visit          | Chevy Caprice 9C1 Police Pkg |
| uznerk@mcl.ucsb.edu| Beautiful      | Bad Boys Bad Boys...         |
| UC Santa Barbara   | Isla Vista, CA | What ya gonna do...?         |
| -------------------------------------------------------------------|
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: orscholz@immd4.informatik.uni-erlangen.de (Oliver Scholz (Turo - Backstage))
Subject: Difference btw R42TS and R42CTS plugs
Summary: Difference btw R42CTS and R42TS spark plugs?
Organization: CSD., University of Erlangen, Germany
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 20:44:38 GMT

I have a question here: (the summary says it all...)
Two different sources recommend different plugs for my car,
and I wonder what the differents between R42CTS and R42TS is...
It boils down to the 'C'... what does it mean?

-Oliver
-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Oliver Scholz                                                         DG4NEM
Graduate Student of Computer Sciences at the University of Erlangen, Germany
"You're killing me, Peg!"  "Oh, shut up, Al, like I care..." 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: Saab: shocks and squealing brakes
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 92 06:35:29 GMT

Brian J. Young (bjy@med.unc.edu) wrote:
: I am in the market for shocks for my 1987 Saab 900.  The car is mainly
: used as a commuter and on trips so exotic performance shocks are not
: necessary.  Anyone have any suggestions?
: 
: Also, I replaced the rotors and pads recently with geniune Saab parts. 
: However, soon after they were installed, the brakes started squealing and
: show no sign of letting up.  They squeal only as the car is coming to a
: stop, i.e., from about 15 mph to 0 mph.  Any ideas as to how to get rid of
: this extremely annoying occurrence?
: 
: Many thanks,
: Brian Young

As far as shocks, I would reccomend that you get OEM, as the suspension
was tuned for them.  I think SAAB gets them from Sachs, so you could check
into them.  You say you don't want firm shocks, so Koni's & Bilsteins are out.

With the brake pads, did you use the anti-squeal compound that they included
with the pads?  I did pads 10,000 miles ago, and they haven't squealed a bit.
(bought the pads about 4 months ago, the compound was changed shortly before
that to give less brake dusting).

SAAB also sells/sold shims which are designed to reduce/eliminate pad
squealing, I know they are available for the 95/96/97 series, I don't know
if the 99/900 and 9000 series have them, or just the blue stuff.
 

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
Don't blame me; I voted for Perot!                hinzd@picard.med.ge.com 
SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.             Pherrets are Phun!!!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ctoth@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Christopher M Toth)
Subject: Corvette Turbos
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1992 07:40:42 GMT


	Is it possible to get a Turbo Corvette?


Thanks

-- 
Christopher M. Toth                   "With an Iron fist in a velvet glove
The Ohio State University              We are sheltered under the gun
Columbus State                         In the glory game on the power train
CIS/History Major                      Thy's kingdom's will be done."-Rush
From: eeng@tc.fluke.COM (Ed Eng)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: New Gasoline Ripoff
Date: 6 Nov 92 15:20:25 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: John Fluke Mfg. Co., Inc., Everett, WA

In article <Bx9C7B.1As@ssesco.com> nau@ssesco.com (William Nau) writes:
>
>>You are wrong -- alcohol is more expensive than the gas.
>>Remember the actual cost of the gasoline is NOT the ~$1.20
>>you pay for it at the station.  My memory tells me that the
>>actual cost (out of the refinery) is closer to $.60-$.80/gal.
>>(or even less, since there are typically $.30 in taxes).
>
>You may be right, but this does not explain why before the alchol
>based fuels were REQUIRED, it usually cost several cents less.
>If it cost less before, why does it cost more now.  I see it as
>becaues they can get away with it.  In this state (MN) we have
>no problem producing enough grain to keep up with production.  They
>can't blame it on that.
>
>William R. Nau

I vaguely recall an article in this newsgroup a few months back which stated
that ARCO gas is a mixture of 10% alcohol.  The author explained that buying
ARCO gas because it was cheaper was false economy because it is less efficient. 
So, is this 10% alcohol mixture for winter the same stuff ARCO sells?  ARCO
stations have put stickers on their pumps but is the gas really different? 
Is that author out there?
From: pnelson@cobra.Tymnet.COM (Phil Nelson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: putting a 5spd in a '61 chevy apache 10
Summary: Or, you could change the rear end
Date: 13 Nov 92 23:09:07 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: BT North America (Tymnet)

? [lost the name] wrote-

> I am interested in putting a 5spd manual transmission in a `61
> Chevy Truck.  I currently have a 3spd manual which causes the 
> truck to run at high RPM's during highway driving.  I would 
> love to convert to a 5spd manual.  I suspect that the 5spd 
> manuals that Chevrolet has been putting in there full sized
> trucks the last few years might work (with a few mods).

Another thing you could do is replace the rear axle with one which has
a lower gear ratio. I have the same problem in my '54, it cruises nicely
at 45 MPH, anything higher and I worry about the engine. I was thinking
of changing the rear gears, or maybe getting a 2-speed rear (anyone care
to comment on my chances of finding one of these?). I never thought about
the five-speed (probably because I don't have a 3-speed, but a 4-speed with
compound low, which I like). I assume these 5-speeds all have overdrive 5th
gear? Otherwise it is not going to do you much good.


Phil Nelson . pnelson@tymix.tymnet.com . San Jose, CA, USA . 408-922-7508

	A simple man believes anything,
	  but a prudent man gives thought to his steps.    Proverbs 14:15
From: harmons@mithril.wv.tek.com (Harmon Sommer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Water Injection
Date: 7 Nov 92 22:51:51 GMT
Reply-To: harmons@mithril.wv.tek.com (Harmon Sommer)
Distribution: usa

Reference is Turbocharging by McInnes.

He shows graph and data from work by Ricardo in the '30s where an engine 
was run 10% lean and manifold pressure (boost) was increased until the 
onset of detonation. Brake Mean Effective Pressure (BMEP) was 168psi and 
Specific Fuel Consumption (SFC) was 0.4lb/bhp_hour.

The mixture and boost were increased until a BMEP of 237psi was attained and
further enrichment would not  allow more boost to be used. SFC was
0.6lb/bhp_hour.

Water injection was started and fuel mixture decreased as boost was increased
even more. The next limit was at BMEP of 290psi; SFC was 0.45lb/bhp_hr and
water consumption was 0.35lb/bhp_hour.

Going from a lean to rich mixture with boost increased power by 41%.

Going from a lean mixture to slightly richer mixture with water injection
and boost increased power by 72%

The power required for the supercharger was not taken into consideration.
For a turbocharger this is probably free.
From: leonglaw@hpsgm2.sgp.hp.com (Lawrence LEONG)
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 10:47:18 GMT
Subject: Re: The Gasaver: what's the deal
Organization: HP Singapore
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

In rec.autos.tech, harling@miki.pictel.com (Dan Harling) writes:

|In article <53110037@hpsgm2.sgp.hp.com> leonglaw@hpsgm2.sgp.hp.com (Lawrence LEONG) writes:
|>Sounds like "Cheetah 911".  Costs S$140 here (approx US$88).  Claims you can
|>save 10% fuel, increase power, lower engine operating temp (hmm, starting to
|>sound fishy) etc...
|>
|>they had a demo setup with 2 spark plugs, with a wimpy spark from the "normal"
|>plug, and a strong sizzling spark from the "assisted" one.  The sales guy
|>couldn't give any tech details but it looks like some capacitive circuit in
|>this gizmo.  He also refused to let me look at the insides of his demo box.
|>I wonder why.  
|
|It could be a number of things.  It could be a capacitive circuit, or
|it could even be a wire with a wide gap in it, to produce higher peak
|voltages.  MSD's ignition box fires several sparks in succession,
|instead of one big one.

Nope, not the plug - I made them swap the wire.  I suspected a capacitive
circuit, yes, now that you mention MSD, the strong spark was more of a series
of sparks, hence the "sizzling" effect.

lawrence

|____________________________________________________________________________
|Daniel A. Harling                        (harling@pictel.com)
|PictureTel Corp.             Opinions expressed are not necessarily those of
|Peabody, MA  01960                 PictureTel, but they ought to be!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang)
Subject: Re: Toyota V-6
Organization: Brandeis University
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 15:37:57 GMT

In article <1dp5a2INNkm8@bigboote.WPI.EDU> walkerr@bigwpi.WPI.EDU (Robert A Walker) writes:
>
>confused me was that it has a Single overhead cam and it is a V-6.  Does

SOHC refers to each head, i.e. each head has a single cam over it.
From: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Adding an ABS disable
Date: 6 Nov 92 19:44:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Ye Olde Bailey BBS - Houston, TX - 713-520-1569
Reply-To: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 


HHS!@#Sayeth donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) :
   !@#$Now my question....why? There is no better system on ANY vehicle that
   !@#$will stop a car and allow control than an ABS equipped car, ice,snow or
   !@#$whatever.           ^^^^^^^^^^^^^
                           _____________
    RIGHT.

HHS!@#   In situations such as heavy snow or gravel, it is faster to stop
   !@#by locking your wheels and basically turning your tires into snowplows
   !@#than to use ABS.  The friction involved in building up a pile of
   !@#snow in front of the wheels exceeds the static friction of an
   !@#ABS-controlled stop.  Only if you require steering during the stop
   !@#will ABS be better than no ABS in this situation.
   !@#--

 I did say ALLOW CONTROL...anyone can turn there car into a snowplow and
 stop it quicker...but if you start going sideways, can't correct the
 scid and hit another car...then you wish for ABS.

        I'm sure we can go on and on 'bout this...but let's not. If
        there are any REALLY qualified folks(like engineers from GM or
        TEVES) then let them give us there info...
                                                        Don


 * SLMR 2.1a * I'm too poor to have a TAG!
                                                   
----
Ye Olde Bailey BBS
Houston,Texas
Node 1: 1 713 520 1569
yob@sccsi.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: alc@gdstech.GRUMMAN.COM (Al Chang)
Subject: Re: Dodge Caravan engine noise
Organization: Grumman Corporation
	<1992Oct30.101625.6784@newstand.syr.edu>
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1992 14:38:33 GMT

In article <1992Oct29.115351.7770@brtph560.bnr.ca> mjsutton@bnr.ca
(Michael Sutton P025) writes:
>I have a 90 grand caravan with a 3.3 chrysler engine with 40K miles.
>Upon start-up after an overnight sit I hear initial knocking for a
>few seconds.  The noise is similar to a car with an old engine that has
>wear in the engine bearings.

How's your oil pressure? Some say it could be the oil filter, check
it out. On mine I use Fram with 5w-30w oil exclusively and have no
problems. 
Also I heard from previous postings that there was a bad batch of '90 3.3's
produced with bad (main?) bearings, if I was you I'd check out if you
have it.
--
     ---  My opinions do not represent the opinions of my employer.  ---  
******************************************************************************
Al Chang                                        email: alc@gdstech.grumman.com
Grumman Data Systems                                  Woodbury, New York 11797
******************************************************************************
-- 
     ---  My opinions do not represent the opinions of my employer.  ---  
******************************************************************************
Al Chang                                        email: alc@gdstech.grumman.com
Grumman Data Systems                                  Woodbury, New York 11797
From: clogan@redorc.chi.il.us (Sigmond Freude)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: heater core leak
Date: 10 Nov 92 03:04:20 GMT
Organization: Red Oracle Bbs/Network

In article <1992Nov3.183304.11928@urbana.mcd.mot.com>,
ddefend@urbana.mcd.mot.com (Dan Defend) writes:
>I'm getting a strong antifreeze smell when I use the heater (and some smell on
>vent) in my '86 Mustang GT.  I assume it's a heater core leak.  I've tried a
>couple of different stop leaks with no success (I let the car idle almost an 
>hour on the last attempt -- I know that may not be a great thing to do for
>other reasons).  Anyone had luck correcting this problem without replacing 
>the heater core?
>
>Thanks,
>-----
>Dan Defend
>ddefend@urbana.mcd.mot.com
>uiucuxc!udc!ddefend

No, only way in repairing a heater core is to take it out and get it silver
soldered or replace it.

I have a 86 mustang and the heater core is a snap to get to. Just look under
the clove compartment by the computer and there shound be a plate with 4 or 6
screws holding it in place. Take the cover off and the lines and it should
slide right out.



----
clogan@redorc.chi.il.us
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu (REAL LIFE?!?!  HA!!)
Subject: Re: 240Z-280Z Problems
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 01:47:00 GMT

tavernin@rm1.interlan.com (Victor Tavernini) writes:

>I'm thinking of buying a 240Z, 260Z, or 280Z and was wondering if any
>specific model/year had any serious problems ... besides rust :-)

The earlier the better.  IMHO, the best Z-cars (the new 300 excluded-maybe)
are the very first ones, that is, the 69-70-71.  After 71 (or was it 72?)
emissions controls just slogged down that lovely 2.4-liter engine and made it
most icky to drive.  Datsun's solution:  Bigger engine, heavier car, no more
power - the 260Z.  STAY AWAY.  The 260 wrecked the original concept of the 240
so well, Datsun took it a step further with the 280Z.  The emissions controls 
were awful from '72 (or was it 73?) right up until they started using EFI.  I
can't remember whether there were any Z's (as opposed to ZX's) that used EFI,
but I still think the best choice is a 70 or 71 (the 69's are VERY RARE).  
Even though the 280 accelerates a little faster, the 240 is so pleasant to
drive.  It handles better due to less weight and it's more fun to drive due
to razor-sharp throttle response.

One caveat on a Z:  My dad has an early '71 240Z, and overall it's been remark-
ably durable and stuff (admittedly, he IS the original owner and it only has
40,000 miles.  It's not for sale.)  but there's a problem with the head gasket.
If you lug the engine, it likes to blow head gaskets, so remember:  If you want
to pull serious power, make sure you're above 2000-2500 RPM when you do it.  And
make sure you use premium gas.  It really needs the octane.

But overall, I highly recommend the Z.  It's just an utter delight to drive
and it still gets looks.  But if you get one, DON'T EVEN THINK ABOUT DRIVING IT
IN THE SNOW.  It will disintegrate faster than you can imagine.  I think Datsun
even outdid Fiat and Karmann in this respect.

I would also recommend two things if you have the $$ for it.  Number one, if
you plan to do any highway driving in an early Z, mothball the original trans-
mission and get a 5-speed from a 280Z.  Also, on the early Z's (This COULD
be true on the later ones as well; I just don't know), a ported and polished
head will make all the difference in the world for high-RPM performance

Good luck!
-- 
Michael T. Chaffee        |******BOYCOTT COLORADO******|  ______    
mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu | Professional Slapthologist |  \    /     HATE
Member, Universal Life Church, Sect of Loons           |   \  /  can never be
Annoyance Theatre Platinum Member |     Evil Genius    |    \/  a FAMILY VALUE
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Coasting with auto tranny's...
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 5 Nov 92 16:10:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> I think it is more of a safety problem than anything else.  Some
-> states do not allow you to be coasting around in neutral and from an

 Which states might those be?
From: ilh@lcs.mit.edu (Lee Hetherington)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Coasting with auto tranny's...
Date: 5 Nov 92 18:32:31
Organization: MIT/LCS Spoken Language Systems
Distribution: usa
	<Bx91Ev.91p.1@cs.cmu.edu>
Reply-To: ilh@lcs.mit.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: winnie-the-pooh.ai.mit.edu
In-reply-to: rudis+@cs.cmu.edu's message of Thu, 5 Nov 1992 15:23:19 GMT

In article <Bx91Ev.91p.1@cs.cmu.edu>
rudis+@cs.cmu.edu (Rujith S DeSilva) writes:
   On an automatic car, can one shift into drive while the car is
   moving?  Would it damage the transmission?

You would really kill your transmission if, when shifting from drive
to neutral, you overshot neutral and hit reverse!
--

                                Lee Hetherington
                                ilh@lcs.mit.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: geiste@hsi.com (Doug Geiste)
Subject: Power steering problem
Organization: 3M Health Information Systems, Wallingford CT
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 16:44:28 GMT

I have a Pontiac Grand Am 1987. It seems that the power steering
doesn't work when the car is first started in the morning. Once the car
is warmed up (after 3 or 4 min), the power steering little by little
works fine. It's then fine for the rest of the day. The problem is
_almost_ non-existent in the summer, and re-appears each fall when the
temp drops and lasts till spring.

The PS fluid level is fine, and from what I can tell, the tension of the
belts are ok too.

Any ideas out there of what the problem could be? 

Any help much appreciated!


-- 
 Doug Geiste                           ||   "We are all faced with a series
 3M Health Information Systems         ||    of great opportunities brilliantly
 ...!uunet!his!geiste                  ||    disguised as impossible situations"
 geiste@hsi.com                        ||
From: mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu (Rockville)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Rear Brakes locking
Keywords: BMW BRAKES LOCKING
Date: 7 Nov 92 03:27:48 GMT
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana

harmons@.WV.TEK.COM (Harmon Sommer) writes:

>>
>>On my 1984 BMW 318i, the rear brakes lock up under any emergency manouver.  
>>Even when the road is dry.  I have brand new tires and have done the 

>Some rear brakes use different shoes between the front of the axle assembly
>and the back of the axle assembly. The front (leading) shoe will have less of
>the metal shoe covered with friction material. The reason is that the
>leading shoes tend to "self servo" or "self energize" and so the friction
>material is cut back to reduce this tendency. If the shoes are pivoted at the
>bottom then this cut back area would be at the top.

I think you will find that the BMW in question does not use drum brakes.  My
dad has the same problem with his 1973 BMW 3.0CSi.  In most cars with rear
disc brakes, there is a compensating device that reduces the amount of line
pressure to the rear brakes, as less total braking force is needed.  It seems
that BMW's compensators have never really been strong enough....

$0.02

BTW:  I'm not 100% sure the 318i has rear discs, but in a lot of cars with
rear drums, the compensator still exists.

-- 
Michael T. Chaffee        |****COLORADO BOYCOTTER******|  ______    
mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu | Professional Slapthologist |  \    /     HATE
Member, Universal Life Church, Sect of Loons           |   \  /  can never be
Annoyance Theatre Platinum Member |     Evil Genius    |    \/  a FAMILY VALUE
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech