HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: truesdel@ics.uci.edu (R. Scott Truesdell)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: advice about MTB brake cables
Date: 16 Oct 92 02:25:23 GMT
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech
Organization: University of California, Irvine

In article <4erL45y00WBLQ1W85F@andrew.cmu.edu>, David Penner
<dp2y+@andrew.cmu.edu> wrote:
>
> I've got a pair of the new Xt low profiles. I find the new cable system
> to be a real pain. I've been thinking of just switching back to the old
> type of straddle cable and hanger system. I can't see why this would be
> a problem, and it would be a lot easier to set up. Any comments?

If you do go back to using the conventional straddle cable setup, try to
maintain the pulling angles between the wire and the cantilever.

The 'low profile' cantilevers are more sensitive to cable setup than
no-low-profiles. If the 'V' of the straddle is at too acute of an angle
then the braking force is reduced. By fixing one side of the straddle
length, Shimano provides a very high incentive to setup the brakes
according to their spec, which is optimized towards maximizing the braking
force.

Besides the incentive to follow their specs, another reasons the low
profile canti's straddle cable is set up that way is because it makes
accurate setup (with Shimano's special little setup tool(s)) a real
no-brainer. Even without the special tool, the way they have the max-width
measurement, once you get the pads set up so that the max width is to their
spec (I wouldn't sweat 2-4 mm here), you can just clip on a 'third hand'
(or keep the pads on the rim by whatever method you choose) and dial in the
cable/stradle-cable adjustment in a few seconds.

If you HAPPEN TO HAVE their special tool you just slap it on -- it holds
the cantilevers at the speced spacing and has a place for the round cable
clamp to fit. You snap this in place, line up the 'self-towing-in' brake
pads and snug their nuts, then simply pull the brake cable snug and tighten
down the round cable clamp thingie and the clamp on the end of the
cantilever and you're done. This adjustment procedure is very fast and
accurate. There is virtually no fine tuning necessary. Perfect for bike
shops setting up new bikes.

I agree, though, that the old way is easier to deal with if you don't have
the special tool... ESPECIALLY on the trail.

  --scott
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: ward@m.cs.uiuc.edu (Christ Ward)
Subject: Re: Leverless quick-release
Organization: University of Illinois, Dept. of Comp. Sci., Urbana, IL
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 21:00:04 GMT

Eric Schweitzer <ERSHC@CUNYVM.BITNET> writes:

>In article <BvEGt6.93n@math.uwaterloo.ca>, arpepper@math.uwaterloo.ca (Adrian
>Pepper) says:
>>
>>Has any manufacturer ever produced leverless quick-release hubs?  I
>>envision something into which you insert a separate lever, possibly
>>even an appropriate sized hex-key, to activate the cam mechanism,
>Yes.
>I think it was Specialized, around 3 or 4 years ago.
>They marketed it as a security device. :+)
There are lot's of these's all of a sudden.  Just grab a 
Mountain Bike Fiction and skim the add's you'll see two or
three different ones...I even saw one that look like a wing nut...
yikes.  There do seem to be some good one's.
Anybody out there got any?  Inquiring minds need to know.

ward
Xref: sparky rec.bicycles.tech:1221 rec.bicycles.marketplace:686
From: king@reasoning.com (Dick King)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech,rec.bicycles.marketplace
Subject: shock absorbing seatposts
Date: 13 Oct 92 18:11:15 GMT
Organization: Reasoning Systems, Inc., Palo Alto, CA


Has anyone out there tried one?  I'm looking for accolades and/or horror stories.

-dk
From: chzs06@vaxa.strath.ac.uk
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: quality headsets
Date: 16 Oct 92 14:42:44 GMT
Organization: Strathclyde University VAX Cluster

In article <Bw0Mzw.B4p@apollo.hp.com>, mj@apollo.hp.com (Mark A. Johnson) writes:
> 
>   I am going broke replacing headsets on my road and mountain bikes.  My
> 
>   Are all headsets with ball bearings junk. Should I try Campy or Mavic?
> What headsets use roller bearings and how come they are not in common
> use?  Do any have the low stack height to replace Shimano headsets?  
> 
>                                          Mark Johnson

Get a stronglight roller bearing headset. When it wears out you replace
the rollers and bearing surfaces only. this costs about 7 pounds UK
at the moment.
The very best one adjusts with a 4mm allen key and fingers. It looks
a bit agricultural but who cares for 20 pounds.
Strongllight are a conservative company so spares should be no problem.

Neil McDonald     
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: les@SAIL.Stanford.EDU (Les Earnest)
Subject: Re: Helmets - keeping a cool head
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech
Reply-To: les@cs.stanford.edu
Organization: Computer Science Department, Stanford University
	<truesdel-121092115245@aux-1.ics.uci.edu>
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 21:43:23 GMT

Scott Truesdell summarizes Ken Mayer's posting as follows:
   > Fact #1: ... [brain has lots of blood circulation]
   > Fact #2: ... [blood is a heat transporter]
   > Time to start using the ol' noodle:
   > Conclusion #1: ... [you radiate lots of heat from your head]
   > Conclusion #2: ... [helmets block heat radiation from head]

Unfortunately, Ken Mayer let his "ol' noodle" reach an erroneous
conclusion.  Most bicycle helmets provide both better air circulation
and better insulation against the sun's heat than typical hats.  If
you replace idle speculation with temperature measurements, as has
been done in a few studies, you find that in typical riding situations
the temperature of the rider's head is about the same with or without
a helmet.  Compared with typical hats, helmets keep head temperatures lower.

--
Les Earnest                                  Phone:  415 941-3984
Internet: Les@cs.Stanford.edu              USMail: 12769 Dianne Drive
UUCP: . . . decwrl!cs.Stanford.edu!Les         Los Altos Hills, CA 94022
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: brianh@hp-19.cae.wisc.EDU (Brian Huilman)
Subject: Re: sensor for computer
Organization: College of Engineering, Univ. of Wisconsin-Madison
Distribution: rec
Date: 9 Oct 92 11:29:02 CDT
Originator: brianh@hp-19.cae.wisc.edu


In article <1992Oct9.4017.836@dosgate>, "richard underwood" <richard.underwood@canrem.com> writes:
  > To: 2641nabedian@vms.csd.mu.edu
  > 
  >>Subject: Sensor for Computer
  > 
  >>I am an electrical engineering student at Marquette University.  As a
  >>project for one of my classes, I have chosen to build a bicycle computer.
  > 
  > [STUFF DELETED]
  > 
  >Next choose another processor - I like the 68HC11D3 or similar for
                                             ^^^^^^^^
  >this kind of thing.  Everything you need in one chip.  You might

No way, go for the 68HC16A (the New One!)  "MORE POWER!!!"

  > richard.underwood@canrem.com (Richard Underwood)

Brian Huilman           University of Wisconsin - Madison
                        Department of Electrical/Computer Engineering
"Avoid the Bonk"        brianh@cae.wisc.edu
             _   __o
           ___  `\<,    "Speed is the reward for hard training."
             -  O/ O
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: kol@hal.nta.no (Karl Olav Lillevold FST Student)
Subject: Re: TIME pedal maintenance
Keywords: clipless, time, overhaul, maintenance
Organization: Norwegian Telecom Research
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 92 07:42:39 GMT

In article <1992Oct12.033847.17895@panix.com>, paul@panix.com (Paul Gatker) writes:
|>  A problem I have had with Time "Racing" pedals is the rear plastic cover 
|> that goes over the major spring. On both pedals the cover just flops around  
|> as the tiny springs in them have escaped to the road. I fixed the problem
|> by prying the covers off completely. Pedals still work fine, are nominally
|> lighter in weight, but aesthetically I can't really tell as I can't see the
|> back of the pedals while I'm riding them.
|> 
|> paul@panix.com                                    COMPULITE GRAPHICS
|> Brooklyn NY usa                                Design & Consultation

A while ago one of my TIME "Equipe Magnesium" pedals touched the ground
while I was leaning to much over in a turn and pedalling at the same 
time :-( (stupid mistake...) Anyway, when I came home, I found that I had
lost one of those covers including the spring. I ordered a new cover
from the distributor, but of course, that did not include the tiny little
spring. Then I just bought some thin pianowire (I think it was 0.25 mm)
and bent it around a screwdriver to get a perfectly good new spring.

The reasons I want those covers are both aestethics and the fact that
I find it much easier to engage the pedals when the covers are in place.
Without the covers the rear cleat seem to get stuck behind the main
spring when I try to engage the pedals (in a hurry).

-- 
Karl Olav Lillevold                email: kol@hal.nta.no
Student Norwegian Institute of Technology  (electronics)
Diploma at Norwegian Telecom Research (image processing)
From: dvs@soda.berkeley.edu (Doug Simpkinson)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Spreading dropouts
Date: 14 Oct 1992 19:04:14 GMT
Organization: U.C. Berkeley, CS Undergraduate Association
NNTP-Posting-Host: soda.berkeley.edu


I have a 3-4 year old Schwinn Voyageur, with which I am very happy.  The 
geometry is great for loaded touring, with huge wheelbase and chainstays.
Problem:  The bike came with 5 speed spacing in the rear (120 mm dropout
width.)  I would like to go to 6 or 7 speed in the back, as well as going
to a better hub, which it seems only come in 126 mm width minimum.  

So, how safe is it to spread the dropouts?  Also, how is this done?  In a
book on upgrading bikes, Frank Berto suggests putting an axle in the dropouts
and unscrewing the cones 1/8" at a time, measuring the spacing after each 
adjustment.  This seems to risk putting all the bend in one chain/seat stay.
Is there a better method?  Will my local bike shop charge an arm and a leg to
do this, straighten the dropouts and check that the frame is straight?

All help appreciated.

Regards, 
Doug Simpkinson
douglips@ocf.berkeley.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: josh@Happy-Man.com (Joshua_Putnam)
Subject: Re: quality headsets
Reply-To: Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com
Organization: Happy Man Corp., Vashon Island, WA 98070-7399
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 21:14:03 GMT

In <Bw0Mzw.B4p@apollo.hp.com> mj@apollo.hp.com (Mark A. Johnson) writes:

>  I am going broke replacing headsets on my road and mountain bikes.  My
>Basso eats up Ultegra headsets every 3k miles, my Bridgestone MTB 
>has gone through 2 Ritchy Comp headsets in less than 500 miles (75% off road),
>and my beater Bianchi w/Shimano 105 (for crit racing and riding in rain) is 
>starting to index at less than 1500 miles.  I have tried loose packing to get 
>some extra miles, but even that does not help much.  It is hard to believe with 
>all the recent advances in components, that headsets are still subject to such 
>a high failure rate.  

This is really excessive wear.  Is there anything unusual
about your riding conditions?  How heavy are you?  If you
had trouble with just one frame, I'd suspect it was poorly
prepped or had been damaged, but if you do this with three
different frames I get mental images of a 300 lb gorilla
riding the Paris-Roubaix every day.

>  Are all headsets with ball bearings junk. Should I try Campy or Mavic?

My commuting bike, a light hybrid/touring bike, has a plain
old Tange Seiki Levin, not the sealed MTB version, and I
would consider repacking it more than every year or 10,000
miles excessive.  On my Bianchi Grizzly, the original
pre-GreaseGuard XC-Pro headset was still working well when I
had to replace the crown cone to install RockShox last
month.  It had loosened up a few times, but that's what
wrenches are for.

Before spending lots of money on an expensive headset, I'd
try to figure out what makes your headsets die so quickly.
Something has to be wrong.

>What headsets use roller bearings and how come they are not in common
>use?  Do any have the low stack height to replace Shimano headsets?  

Galli/Stronglight is the oldest I know of, but you can also
get Onza, Chris King, and some others I can't recall.  They
come in various stack heights, and you might be able to use
one if you can't find out what's making your conventional
headsets go bad so quickly.  The roller bearings should last
longer, but if you kill headsets in under 1000 miles, I
doubt even rollers will last very long.
-- 
 Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com    Happy Man Corp.  206/463-9399 x102
 4410 SW Pt. Robinson Rd., Vashon Island, WA  98070-7399  fax x108
 We publish SOLID VALUE for the intelligent investor.  NextMail OK
Info free; sample $20: Send POSTAL addr: Solid-Value@happy-man.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: dnieder1.hemlock.cc.swarthmore.edu (david niederman)
Subject: Re: Need advice on Vetta cyclocomputers
Organization: Swarthmore College
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 15:02:33 GMT

In article <12OCT199216582826@envmsa.eas.asu.edu>,
gunawan@envmsa.eas.asu.edu (iwan gunawan) writes:
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> I'm considering buying a Vetta C-10 or C-20 for my mountain bike.
> Actually, I don't need the cadence and the average speed, so I think the
> C-10 is good enough.  I'm wondering what people's experience with these two
> models are.  Does anybody ever have a bad experience?  Is the C-10 rear-wheel
> or front-wheel mounted?  If it is mounted on the front wheel, do I need a
> special MTB mounting kit?  My Trek 930 has oversized forks, so I figure out
> that the mount that comes with it won't fit.
> 
> Thank's a lot for any information. Please reply by email.
> 
> -- iwan gunawan
>    gunawan@envmsa.eas.asu.edu
> 
> 


Funny you should ask, but I myself have trek 930, and just recently put a
c-10 on it.  The computer works reasonably well, but doesn't seem to like
cold weather, and sometimes takes a little jiggling of the wires and such
to get it to work.  If you do get, make sure to buy the extra oversize
mounting kit which will run you another 4 bucks.  Also make sure that the
lines on the magnet and the transponder are parallel when they cross each
other.  Good
luck.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: josh@Happy-Man.com (Joshua_Putnam)
Subject: Re: Triple chainrings on road bikes
Reply-To: Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com
Organization: Happy Man Corp., Vashon Island, WA 98070-7399
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 20:43:51 GMT

In <1992Oct14.142146.17304@athena.mit.edu> aviator@athena.mit.edu (Joakim Karlsson) writes:

>I've started to look at road bikes, and see two basic decisions
>[...] (2) Dual chainrings vs.
>triple chainrings.  It seems that many manufacturers make their RX100
>equipped bikes in two versions, one with dual chainrings and one
>with a triple, otherwise identical (derailleurs are different of course).
>For example, Bianchi Eros (3 chainrings) vs. Bianchi Campione (2
>chainrings), Cannondale R500 vs. R400, Specialized Allez Sport vs Allez.

>Question: I can see the technical advantages of a triple chainring
>(i.e. wider range of gears, good for hills, flexibility for touring),
>but what are the major trade-offs?  

The bottom bracket spindle will hang out a little further
than a double-crank's spindle, putting a little more stress
on bearings and maybe allowing a little more flex.  I have
never had any trouble with either of these, but people I
ride with have complained about them.

Ultra-weight-conscious riders might object to adding another
chainring and five more chainring bolts, several mm of extra
spindle, and the extra length of chain and derailleur cage
needed.

You should note that "standard" triple rings have a
different bolt circle diameter than most doubles, though
I've seen some double cranks using 110mm bolt circle
diameters, and some triples are not 110mm outer/74mm inner.
This may affect the ease of finding replacement rings,
especially if you want unusual sized rings.  (For example,
it's easier to find a 54 tooth ring in common road sizes
than in 110mm BCD.) 

Overall, I see no real reason not to get a triple if you
will be riding in hilly terrain or carrying touring loads.
I've been riding road triples for years and have never found
any significant disadvantages.
-- 
 Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com    Happy Man Corp.  206/463-9399 x102
 4410 SW Pt. Robinson Rd., Vashon Island, WA  98070-7399  fax x108
 We publish SOLID VALUE for the intelligent investor.  NextMail OK
Info free; sample $20: Send POSTAL addr: Solid-Value@happy-man.com
From: jbrandt@hplred.HP.COM (Jobst Brandt)
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 17:47:18 GMT
Subject: Re: Re: Radial vs. crossed spoke lacing
Organization: Hewlett Packard Labs, Palo Alto CA
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech

Jeff LaCoss writes:

> Ya gotta be kidding. Radial wheels have close to zero "give" and so
> provide the harshest ride.

How do you know this?  It seems to me that the tire has on the order
of 20 mm deflection while spoke compliance is on the order of less
than 0.1 mm.  This is true whether radial or crossed.  the difference
in length of crossed and radial spokes on the average wheel is on the
order of 2%.  Therefore, to fell the difference between radial and
crossed spoking would require a sensitivity to a change of ~2% of ~1%,
or 0.02%.  don't believe such small differences can be detected.

> I've had a radial front for 16 years. In the good old days, before
> slick bikes were trendy, bike shop staff would always shudder when
> they saw the thing. One guy called it a "bone crusher."
>
> On the other hand, I wouldn't trade it - cross-spoked front wheels
> feel mushy to me now.

I don't know what sort of experts inhabit your bike shop but it sounds
like snake oil is a significant part of their diet.  If you have
ridden these wheels for 16 years the hubs must have steel flanges or
the spokes should have pulled out of them by now.

There are few conventional racing hubs that will withstand radial
spoking for any substantial mileage.  Since most experimental wheels
usually remain unused, the belief that radial or crows-foot spoking is
safe remains a part of bike lore.  If you can imagine several spokes
on one side of a wheel pulling out of the hub at once while riding at
speed, you can see why radial spoking, even if it works for a while,
is not a good idea.  Of course, if you weigh <100 lbs it might be a
mitigating circumstance.

jobst_brandt@hplabs.hp.com
From: deb90@ccc.amdahl.com (David E Ben-Jamin)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Allsop Softride
Date: 6 Oct 92 19:06:36 GMT
Reply-To: deb90@JUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (David E Ben-Jamin)
Distribution: na
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

I'm interested in buying a Softride stem.  Does anybody have any info/experience
with this item?  I would appreciate any and all info.  Thanks.

-- 


I don't need a .sig.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: Michael F. Kamprath <kamprath@space-grant.sprl.umich.edu>
Subject: Shimano Deore XT Bottom Bracket
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 92 10:27:22 EDT
Organization: University of Michigan, Aerospace Engineering
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d12
X-Xxdate: Fri, 16 Oct 92 10:30:18 GMT

I would just liek to solicit comments on the Shimano Deore XT sealed
bottom bracket, and good bottom brackets in general.  It came with my 
Trek 970.  I am just wondering whether I should replace it with the 
like, or go for a different type?


========================================================================
| Michael F. Kamprath                   | The University of Michigan   |
|   kamprath@space-grant.sprl.umich.edu |      Aerospace Engineering   |
|   kamprath@engin.umich.edu            |      Graduate Student        |
+---------------------------------------+------------------------------+
| This country is a _democracy_.  It is NOT a "Two Party Sytem."  DO   |
| NOT believe The Lie that not voting Republican or Democratic will    |
| waste your vote.  Vote for who ever you please, and let the          |
| politicians find out what a democratic republic is all about.        | 
========================================================================
From: rschetge%arrl.org (Bob Schetgen)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Cyclocomputer problems (Vetta)
Summary: They're tough to kill
Keywords: computer fixes
Date: 13 Oct 92 19:44:12 GMT
Article-I.D.: arrl.630
Organization: American Radio Relay League


     I use a Vetta C-20 and I'm reasonably happy with it. 
Nonetheless, I have had some problems that I think merit 
discussion:

1) The cadence magnet glue gave up after about 1 week. I 
   replaced it by cutting a similar size slice off an old 
   magnet from my tool box and fastening it to the crank 
   with tape (masking tape first, electric tape later, next 
   I'll use silicone caulk to glue it on).

2) After a warm day in the back of the car, the display 
   became intermittent. At first, I thought that heat had 
   distorted the case, but I was wrong. The computer case is 
   held together by glue on two pins and sockets just above 
   the buttons. It looks like the heat softened that glue 
   and allowed the case to separate slightly. This makes for 
   poor contact to the display and battery. Some display 
   segments don't show and it resets the clock and odometer 
   to zero when the battery loses contact. Everything works 
   fine if I squeeze the case together.
     At present, I've fastened the case with scotch tape 
   while I contemplate what sort of glue will work best to 
   refasten the case while still permitting me to open it if 
   there are more problems. (Any suggestions, netland?)
     Others on the net have described computers that died 
   after the computers were dropped on the ground. I suspect 
   that those were also case-fastening problems. Unless the 
   display or case is fractured, there is very little chance 
   of physically damaging the circuit or components.
From: chrisv@carnival.lbl.gov (Chris Moll)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Wanted - Comments on Bullseye Pulleys
Date: 15 Oct 1992 19:20:25 GMT
Organization: Lawrence Berkeley Laboratory
Reply-To: chris@carnival.lbl.gov (Chris Moll)
NNTP-Posting-Host: carnival.lbl.gov

Jason Andrew Weber writes:
>Also, if this makes any difference, I think that the ceramic pullies are
>a teensy bit lighter than the bullseye pullies, but don't quote me on
>that.

A story, told to me by the brother of the owner of Bullseye:

Someone came in and was complaining about the extra
weight of the sealed bearing pulleys.  In response, the owner
put a set of Bullseye pulleys on the scale.  Then he removed them
and put on a set of conventional pulleys.  Yep, slightly lighter.
Then he found a couple of dead bees in the corner and put those
on the scale too.  Now the weight was about the same.
"Think you can handle that?" he asked, or words to that effect.

--
Chris Moll                       (510)486-7891
---
"Blessed are they who Go Around in Circles, for they Shall
be Known as Wheels."