HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: kam@hpcvxkm.cv.hp.com (Keith Marchington)
Subject: Pellet stove followup
Keywords: pellet stove
Reply-To: kam@hpcvlx.cv.hp.com
Organization: UTD-CV Corvallis, OR
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 23:08:02 GMT



Well, I posted the request for information about pellet stoves about a
week ago, and since then I have had a few responses (thanks folks :-)
and also done quite a bit of research on my own.  Here's what I found
out.

	Cost:		Anywhere from $1000 to $2500 installed

	Heat Output:	Adjustable from about 5000 to 40,000 btu
			Will heat about 2000 to 2500 ft^2 max

	Pellet Avail:	Here in Oregon, there are plants close by
			that produce all we can use

	Pellet Price:	$125 to $175 per ton based on quality
			supposedly

	Installation:   They are zero clearance.  Inserts go in virtually
			any fireplace.  Free standing need little clearance 
			and can be vented to any outside wall.  Just
			put a fireproof pad on the floor.
	
	Economy:  	Here is the sticking point.  We figured that we would
			burn about .75 tons per month during the cold of
			winter.  This is about $90 dollars worth of pellets.
			We currently spend about $90 dollars on gas per month
			during the cold of winter, so a pellet stove would not
			provide any considerable savings.

The other thing that interested us was the fact that having an
auxilary source of heat would be nice, but as someone else pointed
out, pellet stoves must have electricity.  Thus either a battery
backup or a generator would be necessary to use a pellet stove as
auxilary.  The generator makes more sense because the battery backup
kits for stoves are rather expensive, about $400 for the stove we were
interested in.  With a generator you also get a couple of lights and
your refrigerator and freezer stay going.

What all of this boils down to is that a pellet stove would be nice,
but for us, makes no economic sense.  We are going to go buy a
generator for emergencies.  It will cost a lot less, and since we have
gas heat, all we need is enough electricity to power the fan.  We
should be able to do that for a lot less than a pellet stove and
backup electricity.  We'll just build fires for aesthetic reasons when
we feel the urge.

Thanks to all who provided inputs.

Keith Marchington

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: mcs@fps.com (Mike Sanfratello)
Subject: Re:    FREE REFINANCING
Organization: CRAY Research
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 00:31:56 GMT

In article <1992Oct6.200916.27098@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie) writes:
>In article <1asnr8INNpc9@sixgun.East.Sun.COM> egreen@east.sun.com writes:
>>In article 111851VANCE@SLACVM.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU, Valery Nesterov <VANCE@SLACVM.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU> () writes:
>>>
>>>We have loans at NO COST at all to you!!
>>>We'll come to your home to fill the application.
>>
>>How about tomorrow night?  I live in Cary, North Carolina.  Say, 5:30?
>
>I'm interested too! How 'bout this evening around 8:00? I live in Somerset,
>New Jersey (just down the road from Ed).

yeah, and after you finish with George, make a right and I'm just over in
San Diego.  Say, about 9:30?

mike
Xref: sparky misc.consumers.house:12973 rec.woodworking:6685 uw.forsale:93 pnw.forsale:1888
From: games@max.u.washington.edu
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,rec.woodworking,uw.forsale,pnw.forsale
Subject: Hilti Rota-Hammer for sale, New, Seattle, Wa.
Date: 30 Sep 92 22:12:49 GMT
Article-I.D.: max.1992Sep30.151249.1
Followup-To: uw,pnw.forsale,misc.consumers.house,rec.woodworking
Distribution: uw,pnw,world

Ever dream of owning your own Rota-Hammer?  Know someone who needs a
new one?

I have a Hilti TE-52 that is brand new  (I have less than an hour's use
on it), that I need to sell (My dad bought me a new TE-54 for my birthday
as a suprise one 1 week after I bought the TE-52 after 6 months of needing it.
Some suprise.  Hilti won't take it back because it is used.

This is a hammer only, or hammer - drill unit.  It is a single speed.
It will drill up to 3" with a solid bit, and core up to 6" with a coring bit.

It will drill little 1/2 holes in nothing flat.  (I have done hundreds of them)
This unit puts the mid sized Bosch to shame.

This unit lists at $1065.00  I want $650 for it.  It comes with a case,
and the drill, and NO BITS (I need them for my new one.)

You are welcome to come and try it out (I have a chisel, and some bits you
can use for testing.

			John Stevens-Schlick
			5222 44th Ave S.W.
			Seattle, WA.  98136

			(206) 935-4384 (Home)
			(206) 296-4076 (Work)
From: pauld@cs.washington.edu (Paul Barton-Davis)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: The programmable thermostat jungle...
Date: 2 Oct 92 18:09:03 GMT
Article-I.D.: beaver.1992Oct2.180903.869
Distribution: na
Organization: Computer Science & Engineering, U. of Washington, Seattle

In article <84212@bcsaic.boeing.com> tanner@bcsaic.boeing.com (Jim Tanner) writes:
>In article <1992Sep30.182523.12312@clpd.kodak.com> staffan@ca.serum.kodak.com (Kenneth Staffan (x37507)) writes:
>>	question 2 - Barring that, can anyone suggest brands & models
>>			which allow programming each day differently,
>>			have a temporary override which is effective only
>>			until the next scheduled time/temp change, and 
>>			have a vacation override which is effective until
>>			disabled manually?
>
>Honeywell MagicStat/30, aka MS 3000.  

The one thing that's a pain with the MagicStat is to update all the
daily high or low temp. settings. Because each day is independent (or
at least, it probably will be, since otherwise, you can't
differentiate weekends from weekdays), you have to reset each temp.
change individually. For us, that means 42 different things (2 down, 2
up, per day) to potentially reprogram (which we tend do a few times a
year). It would be great if it had a "global search and replace" ...

I also notice that our MS3000 gets "stuck" sometimes, thinking that
its about 4 degrees warmer than *we* think it feels. Could be our own
mis-sensation, some local air pocket around the stat, or an actual
problem. Other than that, a great tool. Just wished we'd waited till
the now-defunct Pay N'Pak had them at 80% off - yes, 80% !!!

-- paul

-- 
There is hardly anything in the world that some man cannot make a
little worse and sell a little cheaper, and the people who consider
price only are this man's lawful prey.
						John Raskin
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Replacing bad heating element in hw heater
Date: 5 Oct 92 00:34:58 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <11007@sun13.scri.fsu.edu> nall@sun8.scri.fsu.edu (John Nall) writes:
>Do any of you do-it-yourselfers happen to know whether or not
>it is feasible to conemplate replacing a bad heating coil in a hot
>water heater?  (Feasible in the sense that the old one can be
>taken out, a replacement can easily be purchased, and this
>sort of thing occurs on a routine basis).

It's easy, and the elements are easy to obtain.
	- kill the power to the heater
	- turn off the water going into the tank.
	- open all of the hot water faucets in the house.
	- drain the tank through the drain spigot on the bottom through
	  a bit of waterhose.
	- remove the element.  It either unscrews, or is fastened with
	  bolts.
	- clean off the hole.
	- install the new element (will usually have a rubber seal)
	- turn off all of the faucets
	- turn on the water and check for leaks.  If there's leaks,
	  turn off the water, drain again, and reseal.
	- turn on the power
	- purge the faucets of air.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Xref: sparky misc.consumers.house:12921 rec.woodworking:6648
From: johng@phred.UUCP (johng)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,rec.woodworking
Subject: Importance of aging NEW cedar prior to treating?
Date: 29 Sep 92 14:47:45 GMT
Organization: Physio Control Corp., Seattle WA

I have a new cedar shingle sidewall and a  new cedar lattice staircase.
I'm trying to understand what the best course of treatment is that would 
1) preserve the origional look of the wood
2) not require too much maintenance (every year)

The Shake Institute and Flood Mfg (CWF finishes) argue that new sawn cedar
needs to be aged before treating. They say new sawn wood won't accept much
treatment, and locking the water in may actually damage the wood.

Others say you can and should stain the wood after a few weeks of weather.

I'd like to hear others comments and experiences. Again, I'd like to keep
the origional  yellow mottled look ...
thanks,
johng
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas S. Rand)
Subject: Re: Square-D electrical panel
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Date: 5 Oct 92 11:04:10

In article <1ai3duINNfk1@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> au363@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Ken Sussmann) writes:
Path: paperboy.osf.org!think.com!linus!agate!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!au363
   From: au363@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Ken Sussmann)
   Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
   Date: 2 Oct 1992 18:12:14 GMT
   Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
   Lines: 21
   References: <BvHxvF.3M6@world.std.com>
   Reply-To: au363@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Ken Sussmann)
   NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


   In a previous article, edwards@world.std.com (Jonathan Edwards) says:

   >Following advice here and elsewhere, I have asked the electrician on my
   >new house construction to use a Square-D power panel instead of the cheapo
   >GE unit the builder usually uses. And also to use all copper wire (they would
   >use aluminium for the main feed and oven). The price for both of these
   >upgrades is $960! Is this a reasonable price, and is it worth it???
   >-- 
   >Jonathan Edwards				edwards@intranet.com
   >IntraNet, Inc					617-527-7020
   >

   I recently upgraded my service from 100 Amps to 200 Amps. The Square-D
   panel (40 spaces) was about $180. 2/0 copper cable (200 amp capacity)
   was $1.35/foot. I ran mine in conduit. For an upgrade, $960 seems way
   out of line unless you have extremely long runs of wire. I should also
   note that breakers are about $6 for single pole and $12 for double pole.


   Ken

In article <1ai3duINNfk1@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> au363@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Ken Sussmann) writes:
Path: paperboy.osf.org!think.com!linus!agate!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!au363
   From: au363@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Ken Sussmann)
   Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
   Date: 2 Oct 1992 18:12:14 GMT
   Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
   Lines: 21
   References: <BvHxvF.3M6@world.std.com>
   Reply-To: au363@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Ken Sussmann)
   NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


   In a previous article, edwards@world.std.com (Jonathan Edwards) says:

   >Following advice here and elsewhere, I have asked the electrician on my
   >new house construction to use a Square-D power panel instead of the cheapo
   >GE unit the builder usually uses. And also to use all copper wire (they would
   >use aluminium for the main feed and oven). The price for both of these
   >upgrades is $960! Is this a reasonable price, and is it worth it???
   >-- 
   >Jonathan Edwards				edwards@intranet.com
   >IntraNet, Inc					617-527-7020
   >

   I recently upgraded my service from 100 Amps to 200 Amps. The Square-D
   panel (40 spaces) was about $180. 2/0 copper cable (200 amp capacity)
   was $1.35/foot. I ran mine in conduit. For an upgrade, $960 seems way
   out of line unless you have extremely long runs of wire. I should also
   note that breakers are about $6 for single pole and $12 for double pole.


Just in case an article I wrote didn't get cancelled.  Sorry.  I 
just wasn't reading the original post correctly.  $960 seems alot
too much for substituting a couple hundred in materials.

--

----------------------------------------------------------------------
Douglas S. Rand <drand@osf.org>		OSF/Motif Dev.
Snail:         11 Cambridge Center,  Cambridge,  MA  02142
Disclaimer:    I don't know if OSF agrees with me... let's vote on it.
Amateur Radio: KC1KJ
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: naresh@apple.com (naresh gupta)
Subject: installing new hinges on a door
Organization: Taligent Inc.
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 22:45:24 GMT

The front door in my house is not balanced. It takes a hard push to close the
door. Also the door has a deadbolt and a lock. When I engage the deadbolt, it
goes in the frame properly. But the knob lock does not engage. I have concluded
that hinges on the door may not be handling weight of the door. The door is not
very heavy though. So DIYers, do you think that installing new hinges on the
door will fix the problems. Or there is another way to fix these problems.
Thank you.

Naresh
From: frazier@Armstrong.EDU (Doug Frazier)
Subject: Electric Drill Recommendation
Organization: Armstrong State College, Savannah, GA
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 00:51:35 GMT

I want to buy a really good, durable 3/8" VSR drill for general homeowner
use.  Can anyone recommend models and good mail-order sources?  Many thanks.

Doug Frazier
frazier@pirates.armstrong.edu
From: langston@langston.cs.utk.edu (Mike Langston)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Termites in my Firewood
Date: 29 Sep 92 02:15:53 GMT
Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of Tennessee
Distribution: world
Reply-To: langston@langston.cs.utk.edu (Mike Langston)
NNTP-Posting-Host: langston.cs.utk.edu

doug olney writes:

> I had occasion to move my woodpile yesterday, and found it riddled with
> what I assume are termites.  While the woodpile is well away from the
> house, just the thought of those destructive beasties on my property
> makes me nervous.

a good instinct

> A look at the hardware store turned up some chemicals which will
> kill termites, but I am very concerned what will happen when I
> try to burn wood impregnated with bug killer.

another good instinct -- do we sense a pattern?  :)

> Has anyone successfully dealt with this problem?  Is there a Round-Up of
> insectisides that disappears two weeks after you use it?  Or should I
> just live with them?

split up your wood into stove size pieces *now* -- crush any
termites that crawl out during this process -- take the pieces
that still harbor termites (or that you even suspect do) and
treat your kids and/or neighbors to a nice bonfire/weenie roast

in the future, store your wood high and dry as has been recently
discussed here -- good luck

-- 
mike langston <langston@cs.utk.edu>
department of computer science, university of tennessee
From: smc@hotsc.att.com (Steven M. Casagrande)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Questions, rockwool, NJ
Date: 26 Sep 92 22:49:10 GMT
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories, Holmdel, NJ

In article <2973@contex.contex.com> frank@marvin.contex.com (Frank Perdicaro) writes:
>
>Also, I have not heard anything lately about the guy that was fighting
>with the New Jersey Pinelands Commission about toilet design.  I know
>I am a few months dated, but how has that turned out?

He moved to Denver and gave up the fight.  (Well, he moved to Denver,
causing him to just forget about the fight; he didn't move because of
the NJPC fight.  Besides, there's lots of other legitimate reasons to
move from NJ.)

If you have any questions for him, try gof@drutx.att.com (George Fischer).

Steve Casagrande
smc@hotsc.att.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: mulford@bach.udel.edu (George Mulford)
Subject: Re: Electric Drill Recommendation
Organization: University of Delaware
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 16:56:06 GMT


The Milwaukee 3/8" VSR drill is a real bear--I mean that as a compliment. 
I have both it and a Makita cordless in the shop and never use the
cordless--not enough beef.  There are two Milwaukee models, 2003 and 2008.
Tool Crib lists both for the same price, last I looked!  The 2008 has a
cheaper chuck.  2003 (or 2002--memory may fail) has a big, smooth-working
industrial chuck that's a joy to the hand.
-- 

George W. Mulford                              mulford@brahms.udel.edu
Instructional Technology Center                University of Delaware
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: bbenowit@telesciences.com (Barry D Benowitz)
Subject: This Old Lighthouse
Summary:  An idea for This Old House
Keywords: TOH
Organization: TeleSciences CO Systems, Inc.
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 20:13:14 GMT

I was watching a PBS show last night that talked about the disrepair of
some (most) of our East Coast Lighthouses. The showed pictures of a few
of ther nicer ones and a few of the more decrepit ones, Could they use
some work.

Apparently, The US Coast Guard (Read Taxpayers) owns them and can't 
afford  to maintain them. Yet, they are required for maritime navigation.

Think about the possibilities:

Steve and Norm Restoring a famous lighthouse to its former glory utilizing
their considerable skills and using the might of the _TOH_ staff for getting
all those juicy savings (which translates into Taxpayer savings).

Food for thought.

-- 
Barry D. Benowitz
EMail:	bbenowit@telesciences.com (...!pyrnj!telesci!bbenowit)
Phone:	+1 609 866 1000 x354
Snail:	Telesciences CO Systems, 351 New Albany Rd, Moorestown, NJ, 08057-1177
From: harris@byron.u.washington.edu (Jeff Harris)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Brrrr...Pellet stoves anyone?
Date: 30 Sep 92 19:30:05 GMT
Article-I.D.: u.1992Sep30.193005.16046
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle

In article <92273.121710JCLEWIN@MTUS5.BITNET> <JCLEWIN@MTUS5.BITNET> writes:
>In article <1992Sep28.173634.22985@hpcvusn.cv.hp.com>, kam@hpcvxkm.cv.hp.com
>(Keith Marchington) says:
>This question was posted in misc.consumer awhile ago, but I never saw a reply.
> Mother Earth News reviewed wood stoves, including the pellet stove, within the
>last year.  The jist of it was they are simple to use (just pour in the pellets
>) and often gave constant heat (especially if they had a screw drive feeder).
>Another advantage was the potential availability of fuel - the pellets can be m
>ade from anything from waste wood from mills to ground up corncobs from grainer
>ies (theoretically).  You have to find the availabitlity of such pellets.  Evid
>ently, you can go to some large supermarkets and buy them.  Pellet stoves are n
>ot my solution since wood is often free here in the Upper Peninsula (assuming
>your labor is "free."  We get permits to pick up the slash and waste logs from
>land companies after they cut.   A summer of on and off cutting can provide
>  enough wood.  A     less labor intensive option  (here in the U.P.) is to buy
>cull logs at apporx 40 dollars a cord (usually a 10 cord load).  I have no
>idea how much pellets cost, but probably more than that.
>
>JCLEWIN @ MTUS5.BITNET
>
>Houghton county, MI.  I here we will have a low snow year this year.... Shucks.
>(Low snow means less than 200 inches......)
 
All this is fine and good, but when the power goes out, your cold again.
You need juice to run these things. That is, unless you have a generator...
My grandparents go cold at least once a year just for this very reason.
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Broken Thermometers
Date: 30 Sep 92 18:16:55 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <Sep.29.23.21.31.1992.22150@cadenza.rutgers.edu> masticol@cadenza.rutgers.edu (Steve Masticola) writes:
|redman@plate.megatek.com (Tim Redfield) writes:

|>        1) Is there an easy way to clean up after an event
|>           such as this?

|Sprinkle the area with sulfur powder. That will react with the mercury
|and immobilize it. Then vacuum it up. (Treat the vacuum bag as
|hazardous waste, like mercury batteries.)

|>	2) What is the danger associated with mercury found in 
|>           thermometers?

|Probably not much, but mercury is toxic and causes nerve damage. If
|it's like lead, the effect would be worse in children than in adults.

|Mercury evaporates, so the vapor gets into the air. A family member
|could also conceivably ingest some of it some other way (dropped
|toothbrush?) So don't take chances.

Metallic mercury is relatively innocuous and evaporates pretty slowly.
On the other hand (or either hand ;-) some mercury compounds are extremely
toxic/hazardous.  Don't know about sulphides/sulphates, so I'd hesitate to
do this - do you have a reference for this?.  I'd tend to "card"
it into bigger droplets and pick it up with an eyedropper.

Fortunately, the amounts are very small.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
From: egreen@east.sun.com (Ed Green - Pixel Cruncher)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: This Old House
Date: 28 Sep 1992 17:43:35 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, RTP, NC
Distribution: world
Reply-To: egreen@east.sun.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: laser.east.sun.com

Someone was asking how to be considered for this show.

Over the weekend I saw Steve (?, the host) at a home improvement trade
show of sorts in Raleigh.  He said one thing they look for (out of the
hundreds of suggestions mailed to the station) is a single project
where they can show renovation, new construction, engineering
principles, special lighting, etc.  They like the "all in one"
approach.

He also mentioned that he always reminds the homeowners that, "the IRS
watches This Old House, too."  The homeowners must pay taxes on the
fair market value of all goods and services contributed to the project,
which, at a high bracket and for > $100K, can turn out to be quite a
bill!

---
Ed Green, former Ninjaite |I was drinking last night with a biker,
  Ed.Green@East.Sun.COM   |and I showed him a picture of you.  I said,
DoD #0111  (919)460-8302  |"Go on, get to know her, you'll like her!"
 (The Grateful Dead) -->  |It seemed like the least I could do...
From: greg@netcom.com (Greg Bullough)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Medeco deadbolts
Date: 5 Oct 92 21:58:07 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest)

In article <1992Oct5.192307.8810@ryn.mro4.dec.com> abbott@priory.enet.dec.com (Robert Abbott) writes:
>
>The main advantages for Medeco are:
>1. Pick proof
>2. Drill proof
>3. Controlled (registered) key distribution

This latter is a two-edged sword. It's also much easier to re-key or
replace other companies' locks, if you suspect a security breach. And
getting a key cut isn't a big rigamarole.

>If your door, striker plate or door jamb are weak then a Medeco
>won't do you a bit of good. (See the results in Consumer Reports)
>Most theives kick the door down, they don't stop to pick the lock.
>
>My approach is to beef up the door itself so that it cannot be
>kicked in. This means inspecting hinges, the door stile (where
>the lock lives) and installing a high security striker plate with
>3" screws or better. You want the screws to pass through the door
>frame into the 2x6 framing stud.

You can often slip a piece of flat aluminum stock between the door
casing and the door frame, and secure it in place with counter-sunk
screws. It's easy to drill through for the hinge screws, and it 
greatly increases kick resistance, as well as stabilizing the 
whole affair quite nicely. I've used up to 1/8" stock, 2 inches
wide. On a basement or garage door, where there is no concern about
interior door trim, you can use 2" aluminum angle stock, lag-bolted
into the studs. Very strong. In this case, you can use stout sheet-
metal screws into the plate to hold the hinges and striker, and also
run them right into the wood behind. Of course your burglar may
sue you for a broken foot...
 
Again, the plus side of this is that you get a door which doesn't act
up in inclement weather.

Greg
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house