HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: rvn@icd.teradyne.com (Rafael Vidaillet)
Subject: HELP! (many)Nicks in Paint
Reply-To: rvn@icd.teradyne.com
Organization: Teradyne, Inc. Boston MA
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 18:58:37 GMT

	Well, it happened!  My 8-month old 92' Eagle Talon is new no more.
I was driving in a cross-country trip these holydays (Boston -> Colorado)
and the car paint was destroyed.  I was driving along I-80 when all of the
sudden this dump-truck opened up and started trowing pebbles into the road.
I assume this was for ice control.  Anyways my car was showered in the stuff
before I could get away. 

	My hood is now full of hundreds of nicks.  The car is black and the
metallic/white nicks are VERY visible.  I have decided not no paint the car 
since I know it will just keep on happening, winters in New Englad are very
hard on cars.  So I have to 'fix it' so it is not as obvious...

	Has anyone had any experience with any products to 'fix' (cover-up)
the nicks? I was planing on:
	1. Place coat of Primer
	2. Paint black
	3. Add clear-coat
	4. Use rubbing compound to smooth it out.
	5. Probaly get a bra (kind of late.. :-( ) to coverup the worst part of the
		hood....
		
	Please if anyone has done this before and gotten good results I would appreciate 
any help possible... Also were can I get the right stuff (primer, paint, clearcoat, etc.)
Does anyone know of a book on how to do this kind of repair?

	Thanks...
	
	_RV

---
 ______________________________________________________________________
/                                                                      \
| Rafael Vidaillet--MS: H71|   Internet:  rvn@dewey.icd.teradyne.com   |
| Teradyne Inc.            |                              _            |
| 321 Harrison Ave.        |   Voice:   (617) 422-2422   |_) \  /      |
| Boston, Ma. 02118        |   Fax:     (617) 422-2837   | \  \/       |
\______________________________________________________________________/
From: hagger@cs.umd.edu (Paul Hagger)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: pop-up lights
Date: 6 Jan 93 20:24:26 GMT
Organization: U of Maryland, Dept. of Computer Science, Coll. Pk., MD 20742

In article <1993Jan6.180803.10601@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com> sharen@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com (Sharen A. Rund) writes:
>In article <1993Jan6.155939.26088@fcom.cc.utah.edu> bbarkey@lark.utah.edu (Brian Barkey) writes:
>>In article <1993Jan6.033537.6595@nuscc.nus.sg> matmcinn@nuscc.nus.sg (.) writes:
>>
>>>What are their advantages/disadvantages?
>>
>>      advantages: attract members of the opposite sex
>>                    Increases aerodynamic efficiency slightly

I believe that the main advantage of todays pop-up headlights is to
allow a manufacturer to create a car with a low hood-line (for whatever
reason, be it aerodynamic efficiency or aesthetics), while still
meeting federal minimum height requirements for headlights.

I'd really like to see a maximum height requirement as well, forcing
high-riding 4x4 types to stop blinding me from behind.  Maybe we
could encourage some sort of pop-down headlight arrangement :-)

-hagger
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: bowmanj@csn.org (Jerry Bowman)
Subject: Re: Tricks for cold weather?
Organization: University of Colorado Boulder, OCS
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 16:43:32 GMT

In article <1993Jan8.142615.20708@noose.ecn.purdue.edu> rjwade@rainbow.ecn.purdue.edu (Robert J. Wade) writes:
>In article <C0HvoE.CAp@tss.com> hanson@tss.com (Hanson Loo) writes:
>>What's the best trick you've seen for keeping 
>>locks from freezing in cold weather? I've 
>>heard about squirting chemicals in the locks,
>>but can't remember what chemical. My second
>>question is what's the best trick for unfreezing
>>them after they are frozen? We are experiencing
>>some unusually cold weather at our ski areas and
>>the best snow in years. Needless to say, I 
>>experienced some of those lock problems last
>>weekend. Thanks in advance.
>>
>>         Hanson 
>
>i use a product called tri-flow.  it is a synthetic lubricant(i think it has
>teflon in it).  just spray it in all door locks and latches when it is above
>50 f and later when the temp drops to whatever you won't have any problems.
>
>if the lock is already frozen try buying one of those small propane torches
>that are self-igniting(when you push the button).  but be careful not to burn
>the car paint.
>
      One trick for thawing an allready frozen lock is to heat your
    key with a cigarette lighter and then put it in the lock. You
    may have to do it several times.
From: fms@sw.stratus.com (Faith Senie)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Car dealers
Date: 5 Jan 1993 21:07:23 GMT
Organization: Stratus Computer, Inc.
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: hoop.sw.stratus.com

In article <1993Jan5.010044.10439@tandem.com>, ratan@stationd.storage.tandem.com
(Ratan Tipirneni) writes an understandably upset description of his treatment
at a local Toyota dealership.

I have a suggestion that, while it may not hit the dealership immediately, may
have an effect on their bottom line down the road.

From what I understand, Toyota of America reimburses its dealers once a year,
based on the dealership's sales for the year.  If they sell X dollars worth of 
cars, they get back, say, 5% of X as a sales incentive.

I have been told by a disgruntled Toyota customer (my father-in-law) that he
had a conversation a few years ago with the folks at Toyota of America where
TofA said that they adjust that percentage up or down based on complaints or
compliments received.  If they get more than, say, 5 complaints, the dealership
loses a percentage point on their reimbursement; if they get more than, say,
3 compliments, they gain a percentage point.  And it was cumulative; if they
got another block of 5 or 3, the percentage got adjusted by another point.

So my suggestion would be that you get all those folks you talked to who
complained about the dealership together, and have them ALL write letters
to Toyota of America complaining about the shoddy treatment they got.  When
we got treated like dirt at _our_ local Toyota dealership (Harr Toyota in
Worcester, MA, for those who live in the area -- they lied to us, tried to 
cheat us, tried to gouge us, and then smoked us out with cigars), my husband
sent a letter off to Toyota of America.  When my father-in-law next called them
to check on the status of a problem resolution with his dealer, they asked him
his last name, and then asked which first name was his.  He gave his correct
name, and then said that the other name was his son, who didn't even own a 
Toyota, and would they mind if he asked why they had him on file.  The person
on the phone did a quick scan through my husband's file, and then said something
like "Oh, I remember THIS one!"  Apparently the letter made quite an impression
out there...

You should certainly report the dealership to the Better Business Bureau 
in your area, but this may also be a good way to have an effect...

Good luck in your search for a new car!  After our experience with Toyota,
we bought a Nissan...


Faith


-- 
Faith M. Senie            InterNet: fms@vos.stratus.com
Stratus Computer, Inc.    InterNet: fms@hoop.sw.stratus.com
55 Fairbanks Blvd.       Pkt Radio: n1jit@ka1srd.ma.usa.na
Marlboro, MA 01752           Phone: (508)460-2632

"I'm afraid I don't know very much about Romulan Disruptor settings" --Spock
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: mucit@cs.rochester.edu (Bulent Murtezaoglu)
Subject: Re: pop-up lights
Organization: Computer Science Department, University of Rochester
	<1993Jan6.180803.10601@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com> <63190@mimsy.umd.edu>
Date: 6 Jan 93 16:00:06

In article <63190@mimsy.umd.edu> hagger@cs.umd.edu (Paul Hagger) writes:
[stuff deleted]
>   I'd really like to see a maximum height requirement as well, forcing
>   high-riding 4x4 types to stop blinding me from behind.  Maybe we
>   could encourage some sort of pop-down headlight arrangement :-)

I was on 490 around 2am one night and one of those was 60ft behind me.  Just
as I started mumbling obscenities, its driver turned the headlights off!
When he/she took an exit a few miles later, the lights came back on so 
I know it was courtesy not malfunction.  Has this happened to anyone else?

>   -hagger

-M
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: uaso@mcl.ucsb.edu (nowhere man)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Acura Integra Bodywork. Costs
Summary: Little kid smooshes my 'tegra
Keywords: Hood, fender, scrathed paint, little kid, big rock, overpass
Date: 5 Jan 93 05:02:01 GMT

Hey everyone!

The other night, some little kid who had nothing better to do and dropped a 10 pound rock or something off an overpass and hit my hood as I was on the freeway. the rock hit my hood, dented it, scratched off a lot of paint then hit my fender. A local body shop wants to repaint my whole hood and fender for about $545. Is this a good deal? If you have had any experiences or have any comments or help please post them! Thanks! Bye the way, it's a '91 GS.


			Boo hoo hoo, 

			Albert So

			uaso@mcl.mcl.ucsb.edu

Thanks in advance!
.
From: sontakke@helix.enet.dec.com (Vikas Sontakke)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: SHO manuals
Date: 6 Jan 93 17:58:18 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation


In article <16242@auspex-gw.auspex.com>, tpickett@auspex.com (Tom Pickett) writes...
>Anyone know of a repair manual that covers the SHO?  I am being
>driven (no pun intended) to distraction trying to find one, and 
>I'm very curious about the systems on my car.  I don't especially
>want to buy one of Ford's 20 million dollar shop manuals...

You spent almost 20K for that car.  I am sure you can emtpy your penny jar and
come up with  ~$100 for the shop manuals. You are/will be paying LOT more in
your single visit to Ford dealer (house of ill-repute).  With the shop manuals,
at least you will _know_ when they are fleecing you.

Oh by the way, neither Chilton nor Haynes cover SHO in their Taurus series
manuals, so you have no alternative.  I know because I tried it too before
shelling out the big bucks.  In retrospect, it was the best $100 I spent.

Vikas Sontakke		Digital Equipment Corporation, Maynard MA.
Internet:		sontakke@helix.enet.dec.com
    uucp:		{decvax,ucbvax,allegra}!decwrl!helix.enet!sontakke
			sontakke%helix.enet@decwrl.dec.com
From: tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu (Terry Quinn)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Why is US engine technology so retrograde?
Date: 8 Jan 1993 16:54:03 -0600
Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway
Reply-To: tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu



> Subject: Re: Why is US engine technology so retrograde?
> 
> If I may, let me add another thing that people almost always seem to  
> miss when talking about smaller more efficient engines. A smaller/lighter 
> engine usually sit behind the front tires, more toward the MIDDLE of 
> the car [in a front engine car]. In comparison, a bigger/heavier engine 
> [almost always] sit on TOP of the front tires [axes] to support its heavy 
> weight. The first design makes the car more BALANCED, opposed to the front 
> heavy second design. 
 
With one exception, at least.  The current production Corvette 
engine sits essentially behind the front wheel centerline (the 
front damper is about at that position).  As a result, the 
Corvette weight distribution is 50/50.  Most people don't realize 
that the current Corvette is really a mid-engine car with the 
engine in front of the passenger compartment instead of behind it.
 
> Ford, GM, and Chrysler are moving as slowly as they can in 
> converting to OHC technology.  GM makes the Northstar 4.6l V-8, 
> the 3.4l Twin Dual Cam V-6, the Quad4, the Saturn 1.9l fours, the 
> small ohc four from Brazil, plus the LT5 V-8 via Mercury Marine 
> and Lotus, for sale in the US, plus many Opel engines in Europe. 
> Ford sells the modular series engines, sohc and dohc 4.6l V-8's 
> for now, but with a 4.0l V-8, V-6 and I-4 coming soon.  Chrysler 
> put the new sohc 24 valve V-6 in the LH cars, and has a high 
> performance dohc head for the 2.2l turbo four.  I don't count the 
                                ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
> engines sourced from other manufacturers. They're getting there.        
 
That engine, in production for about 2 years, produces 224 hp.  On 
a specific power basis (hp/displacement) I believe it it is higher 
than any import, with the exception, of course, of motorcycles.
 

--
                                    Terry Quinn
                                     Germantown Hills, IL
                                      tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu
from Compuserve . . .                  >INTERNET: tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: mfolivo@sactoh0.sac.ca.us (Mark Newton-John)
Subject: Re: AudiWatch Update (Tm) #8
Organization: Sacramento Public Access Unix
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 93 06:19:01 GMT

In <C0CLoE.5xI@Interlan.com> powell@interlan.interlan.com (Glen D. Powell) writes:


>THIS WEEK

>...Toyota is said to be working on a narrow-angle V6 similar to the VR6
>VW's installed in the Corrado and Passat.....  2.5 liters and 4-valve
>heads with SOHC, HP unavailable.

>Geee, the Japs are copying another company's successfull idea!, Ed.


For crying out loud, why in the HELL did you have to make that kind
of cracker racist remark? What a jerk. If you think that Volkswagen
AG is so good with their ideas, then why did they let the Wankel
patents go public dmain??? Shit, those idiot Germans had it, and
couldn't make the damn thing work. If anything, Mazda helped keep
that company alive in the 1970's when they came up with such
"successful ideas" like the....   411, the 412, VW-Porsche 914...

Toyota has been making four valve engines for their Corollas for
YEARS before Volkswagen decided to get a brain fart of their own
and make a four valve. If German manufacturers are so "high-tech",
then why do PEDESTRIAN Toyota Corollas have twin-cam, four-valve
engines, and all you can get on a bloody Passat is some asthmatic 2
liter with a single cam and two valves per cylinders?


>6  NSU Ro 80      (ne Audi ? Ed.)

Hardly. The styling of the Ro 80 carried on to the Audi 100 cars,
but not that sorry excuse for an engine.

>Don't buy japanese *ANYTHING*

Gee, did aren't WE feeling good this week?

By the way, I do own a Toyota Corolla and an Audi turbo. However,
those cracks are hardly intelligent, or appreciated. If you want to
be politically correct (PC- tm) you should say not to buy anything
from China. (Not to be confused with Taiwan)


-- 
#############################################################
# Scaramento Public Access UNIX     sactoh0.SAC.CA.US       #  
#  (916) 649-0161, 722-6516 & 722-5068    E-Mail & USENET   #
################## default .signature file ##################
From: ujmli@memstvx1.memst.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Get a car heated in winter: How long is appropriate?
Date: 7 Jan 93 01:37:41 -0600
Organization: Memphis State University

In article <C0G89q.Dox@news.iastate.edu>, rdu@iastate.edu (Runqing Du) writes:
> My wife usually idles the car for 15-20 minutes in a cold winter morning, say
> 0 degree Farenhite. But i think 7-8 minutes should be enough and excessive 
> idling will do harm to the engine. Would some guys please give me a
> professional answer to this question. Please email me or post in this network.


Its not good to let it warm-up too long because the oil doesn't circulate 
as well when the car isn't moving. Its the sudden change in temperature
that's bad for the car. Just be easy on the car until the engine gets warm.

Jason
From: dhukill@esprit.prime.com (Dave Hukill)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Will there be a 94 MR2???
Date: 6 Jan 93 13:47:30 GMT

I remember reading a rumor a while back in one of the auto rags that the MR2
was not going to be produced after 199? (I don't remember the year). I thought
it was the 1993 model year, but that's obviously not true. Anyone hear
anything else?

advTHANKSance


Dave Hukill <dhukill@esprit.prime.com>
From: hugo@bluehau.bubble.org (Hugo Bueno)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Get a car heated in winter: How long is appropriate?
Date: 9 Jan 93 19:30:29 GMT
Organization: The Blue House

ujmli@memstvx1.memst.edu says:
>In article <C0G89q.Dox@news.iastate.edu>, rdu@iastate.edu (Runqing Du) writes:
>> My wife usually idles the car for 15-20 minutes in a cold winter morning, say
>> 0 degree Farenhite. But i think 7-8 minutes should be enough and excessive 
>> idling will do harm to the engine. Would some guys please give me a
>> professional answer to this question. Please email me or post in this network.
>
>
>Its not good to let it warm-up too long because the oil doesn't circulate 
>as well when the car isn't moving. Its the sudden change in temperature
>that's bad for the car. Just be easy on the car until the engine gets warm.
>

Huh?  What sudden change?

If the original poster is driving a fuel injected car, the warm
up period should, at most, be 30 seconds.  A car warms up much
quicker when driven.  A quicker warm-up also translates into reduced
emissions. A cold catalytic converter does not work as well as a warm
one.  Finally, warming a car for 20 minutes is a waste of fuel.

-- 
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Hugo Bueno ! Fanwood, NJ | hugo@bluehau.bubble.org
From: stecz@pencom.com (John Steczkowski)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Car dealers
Date: 12 Jan 93 20:03:53 GMT
Reply-To: stecz@pencom.com
Organization: Pencom Software

The last new car I bought ('92 Nissan Sentra SE-R), I used a different  
technique to buy it.  At the time I had almost settled on an MX-3 GS, but I  
wanted to try the SE-R.  So I called a dealer and talked to a salesman on the  
phone.  Told them that I had pretty much settled on an MX-3, but I wanted to  
try and SE-R and asked if they had one I could drive, they did.  I went to the  
dealer, the salesman handed me the keys to the car, I drove it for about an  
hour.  I returned the car and told the salesman I like it, then left.  I came  
back the next day, drove the car again.

I decided that I liked it over the MX-3.  I told the salesman at this point, I  
don't pay for paint/upholstery protection, etc.  I don't buy cars that have  
dealer advertisements on them.  Informed him that I wouldn't buy a car that had  
been demoed by anybody (i.e., it better have just come off of the truck).

I then told him that he had one chance to give me an acceptable price,  
including TTL and everything, if I didn't thing the price was good I would  
walk.  I told him to work it up and call me at work.  Later that day he called  
me and told me that the he would sell me the car for $14,014 out the door price  
(so about $13,200 without taxes and registration).  The sticker on the car was  
about $14,200. (all options except ABS)  I may have been able to fight for a  
better price, but I got a pretty good deal, I don't hate the salesman, he  
doesn't hate me, and I didn't have to sit in a salemsman office 6 hours trying  
to get them to take off an additional $100.

The only problem was, I had to wait about 3 days for my car to get delivered  
since they didn't have one with the options/color that I wanted.  In fact, I  
made the salesman kind of nervous, because when the car arrived, he called me  
down to the dealer to fill out the final paperwork, and he showed me the car  
unprepped (plastic on seats, gunk on paint, etc) to prove that it was right off  
of the truck.

--
  John Steczkowski                        stecz@pencom.com
"Racing is life. Whatever happens before or after is just waiting."
                                         --Steve McQueen in Le Mans
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Anti-Lock Brakes makes stopping SAFER?
From: dwsmall@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu (Derek 'Enzo' Small)
Date: 11 Jan 93 11:48:05 -0500
Organization: Miami University Academic Computer Service"

>>Anyone know how the handbrake is actuated on a four wheel disk brake 
>>system?  Is it the same as with drum brakes?
>>
>>
>>Tom Pickett 
>>tpickett@auspex.com or 74616.2237@compuserve.com
>>SHO  GOZE

Most of them use a piston which unscrews a bit by pulling on a lever
attatched to a screw which runs inside the piston and comes out the 
back side of the caliper.  The cable actuation is the same.  One
exception I know of is Corvettes from 68' (I think this was the first
year for 4 wheel disk but I'm not a Corvette nut)  through 82.  On this
car the parking brake uses a drum brake set up which is located inside
the hat of the rear discs (the hat is the center section of most full
sized rotors which protrubes out from the disc and which the studs are 
fitted in).  

 
       __!____!__
       |        |
       |   hat  |
========================  disk

 
-- 
*******************************************************************************
* Derek "Enzo" Small                   [san.dwsmall]@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu    *
*                                      Miami University, Oxford, Ohio 45056   *
*******************************************************************************
*                                                                             *
*   Long live Enzo Ferrari  !!!!!!!!                                          *
*                                                                             *
*   May his lagacy nor his cars ever collect dust.                            *
*                                                                             *
*******************************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: issa@cwis.unomaha.edu (Issa El-Hazin)
Subject: Re: Why is US engine technology so retrograde?
Organization: University of Nebraska at Omaha
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 15:06:38 GMT

rhaar@albert.cs.gmr.com (Bob Haar) writes:

>In article lkpk2eINNeo4@exodus.Eng.Sun.COM, tut@cairo.Eng.Sun.COM (Bill "Bill" Tuthill) writes:
>|>Could someone please describe the technology tradeoffs between
>|>large-displacement (mostly US) engines, and multi-valve engines
>|>with smaller displacement?  I'm wondering whether US technology
>|>is just behind, or whether I'm missing something.
>                             ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

>Mainly that the U.S. and European markets are different. I don't
>mean to knock the European and Japanese multi-valve engines -
>there is some first rate engineering there. But for many U.S.
>drivers, they solve the wrong problem.

>Multi-valve, OHC engines tend to produce more peak power for a
>given displacement, but they have a much narrower power band. 
>Making effective use of this requires a 5 or 6 speed manual
>and lots of shifting. And you cannot get the low end torque
>that gives quick accelleration off the line. 

>Large displacement, push rod engines produce more torque
>at low speeds and a much wider powerband. 

>Both approaches are good in the correct applications. But you don't
>abandon a technology such as push-rod engines that works fine just
>because there is some no whiz-bang design.

>|>
>|>When Ford needed a DOHC engine for the Taurus SHO, they just had
>|>Yamaha build it.  I know Saturn produces some very nice SOHC and
>|>DOHC engines, but GM doesn't seem to use these anywhere else in its
>|>product line.  And Chrysler still produces mostly pushrod engines.

>You are right that GM doesn't use the Saturn engines in other car lines
>today, but GM does have several other DOHC multi-valve engines.

>	Quad Four 2.3 liter L-4	(160 HP in  '92 Grand Am)
>	3.4 V-6 (210 HP in '92 Grand Prix)
>	LT-5 5.7 liter V-8 (405 HP in '93 Corvette)
>	Cadillac Northstar engine
>	Olds Aurora engine

>(sorry I don't have any HP numbers for the last two.)
>	
>	

	Cadillac Northstar engine (DOHC 32-valve V-8 4.6L 295bhp@6000rpm)
	Olds Aurora engine (DOHC 32-valve V-8 250-hp 4.0L)
	Lincoln Mark VIII (DOHC 32-valve V-8 4.6L 280bhp@5500rpm)

The Olds engine is a derivative of the Cadillac Northstar V-8.

>---
>  	Robert Haar               InterNet : rhaar@gmr.com 
>	Computer Science Dept., G.M. Research Laboratories
>DISCLAIMER: Unless indicated otherwise, everything in this note is
>personal opinion, not an official statement of General Motors Corp.

issa