HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: billp@voyager.chm.clarkson.edu (Bill Plunkett)
Subject: Re: McGregor 19
Organization: Clarkson University
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 02:41:00 GMT

From article <1992Nov5.204531.4289@ncsa.uiuc.edu>, by scoyle@ncsa.uiuc.edu (Scott Coyle):
> I would like to here from somebody that has sailed the McGregor 19...
 
> I can't imagine this craft could sail to well with a 40hp (as advertised)
> outboard hanging on its tailfeathers.. Any experience??  How easy would it
> be to step the 21' two-part mast from inside the cockpit out on the water?

I don't know about having a sailboat with a 40hp outboard, never tried
it.  But as far as raising/lowering a 21' mast out on the water, I
have no trouble doing so with my 26' mast.  It's sometimes well worth
the effort if you can duck under a bridge and save yourself a few (or
many) miles.

My mast is stepped on the cabin top and pinned through with a large
bolt that can act like a hinge as I lay the mast down into a cradle at
the stern. (If you have to first lift your mast out of some sort of
socket, it won't be so easy.)  I tie a line around the base of the
mast in a very loose loop.  Then I hoist this loop up as far as I can
(to the spreaders) using a halyard.  I lead this line through a small
block on the bow (attached to the jib's clew shackle), then aft to one
of the winches.  I bring this line up taut while I free the forestay.
Then someone can ease the line until the mast is back far enough to
take on my shoulder (45 degrees or so).  Two important things:  Don't
rely on the line to lower the mast much more than this, you'll lose
control of it, and be sure steady it (on your shoulder) through the
whole procedure.  The shrouds will no longer be supporting it, if you
let it fall sideways, you may have a catasrophe.  I more or less
reverse this process to raise the mast again.

-billp

Newsgroups: rec.boats
From: legacy@cbnewsj.cb.att.com (wayne.m.simpson)
Subject: Re: Request for Info: Broker references (east & gulf coasts)
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: ne
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 14:34:50 GMT
Summary: Here's another to try

In article <1992Nov12.183753.59587@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu> bwb1@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (BRENT W. BENSON) writes:
>>
>>Anyone have a favored publication with sailboat/broker listings?
>>
>>
>Try SOUNDINGS magazine.  It has one section of classified ads with many boats
>for sale.....pages and pages.....mostly by owners.  It's biased towards the
>Northeast, but has an overall wide range of market area. Ther other section of

   ANother NorthEast rag with an excellent classified is Offshore Magazine.
They cover the coast from Maine to the Delaware Bay, have an extensive section
of ad from owners but have plenty of listings from brokers as well.
    In the Chesapeake area, there is a rag literally called "Rags", a small
local sailing publication similar to "Latitude 38" but not as big.

Wayne Simpson (no fancy .sig this time)

Newsgroups: rec.boats
From: fallavol@fred.nas.nasa.gov (Michael A. Fallavollita)
Subject: SCC Instruments and Transducer Mounting - Final Note
Organization: NAS, NASA Ames Research Center, Moffett Field, CA
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 92 20:55:30 GMT
Distribution: usa

I just wanted to post a follow up on the Standard Communications depth
sounder and speed/log instruments that I posted about a while back.

As I mentioned then, I called Standard and asked them about repairing
my DS-1 and SL-1 that came with our Catalina 25 we just bought.  They
told me to send them in and they would diagnose them for free so I did.
I got a call within a week confirming that they had received them, and
they wanted to know if I was the original owner. (I'm obviously not!)
Two days later, I got a call telling me that they were sorry but the
instruments would cost more to repair than to buy new ones, and some 
parts were no longer available.  They were therefore sending the
instruments back.

Since we had nothing to loose, my boss and I decided to poke around a
bit.  Within the first hour, we found that a voltage regulator that
was supposed to feed the digital circuit with 5 volts was only putting
out about 2.9V.  We then started to look at the SL-1 and after looking
at a few other things, also found a blown voltage regulator.  After a
quick drive to the local electronics store, and $1.85 later, we had
the SL-1 working perfectly using a wave generator to generate a signal.

Since the DS-1 is harder to test, I took it to the boat but found that
no matter what I did, I just kept getting those blasted "--" on the
screen.  The next day I went to West Marine and bought a replacement
depth sounder (DS-25).  Just putting the transducer over the side, lo
and behold I was reading the bottom!!!

Comments:  I'm going to think twice before buying an instrument from
SCC.  Since they have a fixed-rate policy for the original owner, I
have to assume since I was not the original owner, they just decided
that they didn't want to deal with my 10 year old instruments.  That
would have been just fine, but why didn't they tell me that on the 
phone BEFORE I sent the instruments to them?  I can't beleive that
their "highly trained" technicians couldn't find 2 blown voltage
regulators.  I also can't beleive that $1.85 and 2 hours of time from
2 inexperienced "technicians" costs more than $500 in new instruments.
(Also add $50 for a new transducer.)

Thanks to all those who responded to my questions about mounting the
transducer without another haul-out.  I'm planning to try the silicone
sealant suggestion tonight.  At least this way I can attempt to mount
it forward of the keel and centered for better "forward looking"
measurements.

Thanks again.

Mike Fallavollita
Catalina 25 #3093
fallavol@corvus.arc.nasa.gov
From: bsmith@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (Brian Smith)
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 19:33:37 GMT
Subject: Re: Glasswork
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
Newsgroups: rec.boats

In rec.boats, pavlov@niktow.canisius.edu (Greg Pavlov) writes:

      closer attention the first time:  can anyone recommend a text or texts
      that describe how to work with fiberglass, particularly from the viewpoint
      of boats ?

I can recommend:

Paul J. Petrick,  Fiberglass Repairs.  Published by Cornell Maritime
Press.  

I have the first edition, published in 1976.  I bought the book in a
yacht store in Denver about 2 years ago.

This book is really good.  Back in the 60's I sold fiberglassing
materials and advised people how to use them (I did do *some* work
myself) and I think Petrick really knows what he is talking about.

The book deals with minor repairs right up to major structural jobs.
It deals mostly with boats but has a chapter on car bodies.  Petrick's
major premise is that, no matter how badly a boat is damaged, if you
take the time and have the patience, you can repair it to where it is
stronger than the original (it would be fun to take a chain saw to a
boat for a couple of days and then see if he could justify that
boast:-)

The first photograph in the book shows a scene in the snow where a
tractor's brakes had failed.  The front end loader has poked through
the side of a boat and pushed part of the boat and trailer
sideways through the block wall of a barn.  The caption indicates that
the boat was repaired, is now stronger than originally (how would he
know that?), and has since been in service for 15 years.   

By the way, for those of you who hesitate to do fiberglassing because
you think it might be difficult, go ahead.  Its one medium where the
amateur can do wonders; all you have to do is follow the instructions
and it works--really!  If you do mess it up--and you will because
sooner or later you do not follow instructions--you simple sand, file,
chop off, or wipe off what you don't like and repair that.  You can
always get a good-looking, servicable job done.  If you want
perfection, you will just have to work a little harder.

Have fun
B.S!
From: rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com (Bob Rusk)
Newsgroups: rec.boats
Subject: Re: Help!  Diastole diesel disaster
Date: 10 Nov 92 18:34:33 GMT
Reply-To: rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com
Organization: Harris Computer Systems Division

On 9 Nov 1992 21:14:03 GMT, jeffh@nonsuch.EBay.Sun.COM (Jeff Huntington) wrote:

>I have been thinking on this some more and can think of no reason to remove the
>sea water impeller.  Seems that is you keep sea water running throught he system
>while you run the engine it will help to keep the exhaust system cooler.

Indeed, I would not consider running the engine dry with the exhaust dry
as well.  Running the engine dry by itself is rather risky as it is, as
the upper cylinders and cylinder head will get considerably less cooling
from the oil than will the rest of the engine.

--
--
 Bob Rusk
 rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com
 My thoughts, probably not Harris'.
From: marc@watson.ibm.com (Marc Auslander)
Newsgroups: rec.boats
Subject: Re: knotmeter paddlewheel location?
Date: 10 Nov 92 18:18:24 GMT
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center, Hawthorne, New York
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM

If the sender is below the water line, and of course it must be, and
if it starts to leak, you will sink unless you fix it!  I don't think
the difference in "head" from one end of the boat to the other can be
a significant issue.  On safety and convenience grounds, I'd put it
where its easy to inspect and repair.

I would also guess that, on performance grounds, forward of the keel is
the best place.  But I'm no expert.

--


Marc Auslander       (IBM)<marc@marc.watson.ibm.com>      914 784-6699
                     (Internet)<marc@watson.ibm.com>
From: jeffh@nonsuch.EBay.Sun.COM (Jeff Huntington)
Newsgroups: rec.boats
Subject: Re: When to go?
Date: 6 Nov 1992 19:21:23 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Distribution: world
Reply-To: jeffh@nonsuch.EBay.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: nonsuch.ebay.sun.com

In article 92Nov6100006@hemlock.nrl.navy.mil, zielke@hemlock.nrl.navy.mil (David Zielke) writes:

> Valve adjustment did have a profound effect on the sound of the engine!  I
> was really amazed.  The thing to remember is that one always prefers to have
> too much slop than too little.  Too much results in noise (clattering) too
> little results in burned valves.




What David says makes a lot of sense.  Is is exactly the rule I have always make
when working on my cars, and what I told the instructor when he disapproved of
the way I adjusted the valves in diesel class.  I guess if you "have" to err 
one way or the other, it is better to err on the side of of too much slop.  On the
other hand, it is much better to get them exactly right.  Yes, I know, it is 
sometimes VERY hard to get them exactly right, espcially when you can hardly see
or reach them on a boat.

Jeff Huntington
From: EPLUS17@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu (Richard Engelbrecht-Wiggans)
Newsgroups: rec.boats
Subject: Re: J/24 Worlds?
Date: 11 Nov 92 03:00:24 GMT
Organization: C.C.S.O.

In article <BxB7oC.41K@ra.nrl.navy.mil>
colbert@s6550b.nrl.navy.mil (Mike Colbert) writes:
>
>P.S.  I chartered my boat to the Japanese team.  They renamed it for
>the regatta as TMY.
 
Not so long ago, someone asked if renaming a boat was bad luck.  We
now seem to have one more data point.  (I, thinking that all this
"bad luck" stuff was a lot of nonsense went and named my 17 year old
boat--previously unnamed as far as I know--last week; so far, no
data either way :-))
 
Richard E+17
From: jadams@vixen.cc.bellcore.com (adams,john)
Subject: Re: Need tips on winterizing an I/O
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 92 13:14:47 GMT
Summary: Don't forget the wash-down pump

In article <1992Nov12.181956.4429@msdhsv.ingr.com>, scott@bell.b17a.ingr.com (Scott Bell) writes:
> In article <1992Nov11.201526.9104@tc.fluke.COM>, ness@tc.fluke.COM (Jerry Ness) writes:
> 
>       What has everybody else heard/experienced? 
> 
If your vessel has a raw water wash-down pump, don't forget to either thoroughly
drain (hard to do in many cases) or run some anti-freeze solution through it.
-- 
Jack (John) Adams			| Bellcore NVC 2Z-220
(908) 758-5372 {Voice}			| (908) 758-4389 {Facsimile}
jadams@vixen.bellcore.com		| kahuna@attmail.com
	-- Illigitimi non carborundum est -- Kris Kristofferson
From: gerard@progress.COM (Gerard Bras)
Subject: Re: Radio Active Waters ?
Organization: Progress Software Corp.
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 15:25:08 GMT

wtwitty@netcom.com (Pacific Systems) writes:

>In article <721352781.F00001@ship.wimsey.bc.ca> Konrad.Koenig@f764.n153.z1.ship.wimsey.bc.ca (Konrad Koenig) writes:
>>The 4,800 tonne Ocean Freighter AKATSUKI MARI set sail today from
>>Cherbourg on 15,000 mile voyage to Japan.
>>
>>Her cargo ? 1.7 tonnes of weapons grade PLUTONIUM in 133 casks
>>"carefully" stowed in its holds.
>>
>>
>A question that comes to mind is "What are the Japanese going to do with
>1.7 tons of weapons grade plutonium?


If history is to be our guide we'll soon see high quality, low cost, utterly
reliable neutron bombs at department stores around the world within the 
decade.  Just feeling frivolous, I guess.

gerard
From: paul@ee.rochester.edu (Paul Osborne)
Newsgroups: rec.boats
Subject: Re: Mounting transducers without a thru-hull
Date: 11 Nov 92 19:16:09 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Univ of Rochester, College of Engineering and Applied Science

In article <ZIELKE.92Nov10210052@hemlock.nrl.navy.mil> zielke@hemlock.nrl.navy.mil (David Zielke) writes:
>I have been told that if you 5200 it to the inside of the hull it will work
>reasonably well.  Also, coating the head with winch lube and providing some
>braket to hold it in place is supposed to work well...  I will never again
>make an oil filled blister on the inside of the hull.  Had one leak all over
>the place during a 2 week cruise and made a real mess and never really
>worked.
>
>

	I have mine mounted on the inside of the hull bedded in RTV silicone
	sealant. Has been there for two seasons working fine. This type of
	install was from the help of people from the net. At first it it 
	did not work well and found that there was a bubble in the RTV
	under the XTR. Remounted and works fine. 

	paul
Newsgroups: rec.boats
From: webb@uhunix.uhcc.Hawaii.Edu (Thomas SM Webb)
Subject: Re: Rules question
Keywords: room at an obstruction
Organization: University of Hawaii
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 04:05:19 GMT

In article <bartley.721326921@spssig> bartley@spss.com (Dennis Bartley) writes:
>Suppose 2 boats on OPPOSITE tacks on a beat are approaching an
>obstruction. The starboard boat can clear the obstruction without
>altering course. Is there any rule that allows the port boat to hail
>for room?
>


No, see rule 42 which covers room at marks and obstructions:
'Rule 42...shall not apply:
(a) between tow yachts on opposite tacks:
  (i) when they are on a beat, or
  (ii) when one, but not both of them will have to tack either to
  round or pass the mark or to avoid the obstruction or
(b) when rule 42.4 applies.'

rule 42.4 is the anti-barging rule...

-tom
--
===============================================================================
webb@uhunix.uhcc.Hawaii.edu  
Newsgroups: rec.boats
From: becker@super.org (Donald J. Becker)
Subject: Re: Mounting transducers without a thru-hull
Keywords: depth sounders, transducers, mounting
Organization: IDA Supercomputing Research Center
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 12:55:52 GMT

I mounted the transducer in-hull when I installed a Humminbird
depth-only-sounder on our J/24.  I used the recommended epoxy
compound, mounted it close to the centerline, and can sucessfully read
the depth down to 90' (the maximum in our area).

    o There is no flot bottom section on a J/24, but by mounting it
      about 8" forward of the keel it's only a few degrees from level.
    o I used the supplied Humminbird combination transducer, rather than
      exchanging it for a puck-type in-hull one they also offer.
    o I used the special Humminbird epoxy mounting compound (at a
      special ~$10 price for a thimbelfull -- ouch).
    o The J/24 is nominally balsa-cored fiberglass, but I don't know the
      construction at that point in the hull.  The knotmeter sender
      is only a few inches away, but it's bedded well enough that I
      can't really tell what it's through.
    o We have no trouble out in the open water, but we sometimes get bogus
      3' readings in the channel (Back Creek near Annapolis).  My
      guess is interference from other similar-frequency sounders,
      a problem which might be avoided with a stonger signal.
    o I can't recommend Humminbird for reliability or service.  It broke
      at the end of its first season with low-battery symptoms.  The
      next spring (13 months into the 1 year warrenty) I figured out
      that it wasn't just a low battery problem.  Their advertised $30
      flat fee, FedEx return, 48 hour total turn-around repair service
      was really $40, normal UPS, and "when we get to it".

			     Don Becker (becker@super.org)


-- 
Donald Becker				       becker@super.org
Supercomputing Research Center,  Institute for Defense Analyses
17100 Science Drive, Bowie MD 21114		   301-805-7482
Newsgroups: rec.boats
From: billp@voyager.chm.clarkson.edu (Bill Plunkett)
Subject: Hall Probes (Re: Compass on a chip)
Organization: Clarkson University
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 15:03:19 GMT

From article <1992Nov4.220153.29746@cs.brown.edu>, by jfh@cs.brown.edu (John F. Hughes):
> I posted too soon, claiming that there existed chips with fluxgate compasses
> 
> So there you have it---perhaps there *is* no such thing. On the other hand,

I was talking to someone in our Physics Dept. who's working with "Hall
Effect" probes.  These are small sensors on a chip that produce a
voltage signal in response magnetic fields.  One Hall Probe does not a
fluxgate make; they are not sensitive enough to measure the earth's
field directly.  But when arranged in some certain configuration, it
is possible.  This arrangement, to my understanding, is the actual
"flux gate."  

So, there are micro-electronic devices available, but you have to
arrange two (or more?) of them in a circuit, add a power supply, maybe
another chip to amplify the signal, and a meter or microprocessor, or
something to interpret the signal.  It's seems just a matter of time
before someone packages all of this on a medium priced (say $60?) LSI
chip.  Maybe it *has* been done; more truth to this rumor than we
know?  I do know, however, that the hall probes exist, for the more
serious experimenter.

-billp
From: ecf_stbo@jhuvms.hcf.jhu.edu (Two copper pyramids glued base to base with sap)
Newsgroups: rec.boats
Subject: Re: J/24 Worlds?
Date: 6 Nov 92 17:27:00 GMT
Article-I.D.: jhuvms.6NOV199212271173
Followup-To: rec.boats
Distribution: usa
Organization: The Johns Hopkins University - HCF
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <msolomon-051192173235@mac61177.mitre.org>, msolomon@mitre.org (Moise Solomon) writes...
>Does anyone know the results for the J/24 Worlds held in Annapolis last
>week?

Actually it's going on this week. Ken Read has clinched 1st place and will not
sail the last race. Jim Brady and Chris Larson have the best chance for second.


Tom O'Toole - ecf_stbo@jhuvms.hcf.jhu.edu - JHUVMS system programmer 
Homewood Computing Facilities, Johns Hopkins University, Balto. Md. 21218 
>Here comes a jet ski.
>weuh weeuhh weeuhh weeuhh WEEUHH WEEUHH WEEUHH WEEUHH weeuhh weeuhh weeuhh weuh
From: tarkkone@klaava.Helsinki.FI (Lauri Tarkkonen)
Newsgroups: rec.boats
Subject: Re: Tuff Luff and other headstay foils
Date: 10 Nov 92 22:11:43 GMT
Organization: University of Helsinki

In <1992Nov10.183134.2735@das.harvard.edu> bloxham@geophysics.harvard.edu (Jeremy Bloxham) writes:

>In article 22963@klaava.Helsinki.FI, tarkkone@klaava.Helsinki.FI (Lauri Tarkkonen) writes:
>>In <1992Nov9.125516.8324@das.harvard.edu> bloxham@geophysics.harvard.edu (Jeremy Bloxham) writes:

>>
>>>Twin grooved headstays are essential for efficient genoa peels and are 
>>>probably one of the most significant developments in sail handling gear 
>>>for racing boats in the last few decades.

>    A peel with a twin groove system probably results in a loss of three or
>    four boatlengths; a bare-headed change about ten times that amount.
>    Not changing at all can result in a blown race and a very expensive
>    visit to the sailmaker.

I am afraid your people performing the bare headed change vere fumbling,
opr then you are comparing some amateurs to some professionals.

Did you see the posting refering to the fleet of J24s, where the fashion
of foil luffs is going away?

>>I must confess, I do not regard foresail furling to be a very usefull
>>thing. If you use it for reefing, you get a bad shape of the sail anyway,
>>and if you believe that the same sail suits all weathers you do not pay
>>much attention to the set of your sail.

>    Most cruising boatowners do find roller furling extremely useful.
>    Sails cut for roller furling have improved greatly in the last few

Yes, I have seen all of them. My sailmaker lives next door to me.. but
still I do not had a opportunity to see one sail suitable for winds
ranging from 3 to 40 knots. To use one sail fa very broad wind range 
is making too big compromises.

If the cruisers are so happy with their sails, why do I see so many
of them motoring, with their precious foresail rolled in completely?
When I ask them: they tell me a) it is not blowing enoug, b) it is
blowing too much c) my sail is not suitable for this wind. :-).


>    A Tuff Luff for my boat (30' LOA) costs under US $400 and installs
>    in a few minutes. It comes with a 5 year warranty, so it's not a
>    major expense given its useful life.

How much do you pay your sailmaker to change the hanks to a foil tape.
For some reason my sailmaker has always some sails with foiltapes under
rapair. Not only his own make, but all of them.

>   We have never lost a race because of a problem with our Tuff Luff. 

You lucky man, I have won because of the luff foil in the other boat.

>   I believe a twin groove headstay is essential for racing. Just because
>   something can fail doesn't mean it's not worth having: we lost a race
>   (and the summer series)  this season because our mainsail blew to
>   shreds, but we still use a mainsail.

If you would have spent the money you spent for the tuff luff and foiltape
in buying a new mainsail a bit sooner, then you propably could still have
a decent finish in the race.. :-).

>   Jeremy

Happy sailing, hope your faith in your equipment will never be too harshly
betrayed.

- Lauri Tarkkonen