HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: wjin@cs.uh.edu (W. Woody Jin)
Subject: Choosing Cables (Was  Re: Very expensive cables)
Organization: University of Houston
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 05:35:18 GMT

In article <1992Sep9.181941.13496@ncsu.edu> kester@mte.ncsu.edu (Dan Kester) writes:
>I think that any open-minded person who actually does the experiment (comparing
>cables) will hear a difference.
>
>There are few claims of "magical qualities". It is simply claimed that
>different cables sound different. 
>
>Two things to note: First, the system has to be good enough to hear the
>difference.  With a $500-$1000 system, the free cables are probably fine.  With
>a $5000 system there will be an audible difference between cables.  Second,
>there is not a "best" cable.  Different cables will sound better in different
>systems and to different people's tastes, and not necessarily based on price. 
>All reputable dealers, writers, and manufacturers say that it is important to
>try out cables and find the one that you prefer.

I believe that there will be a difference.   Then, is there any agreement
among the audiophiles regarding which cable is preferable for which 
system / which music ?
For example,  I have a Apogee Centaur (ribbon hybrid speaker) and
(will buy) a tube amplifier.  I listen to classical music, mostly
Baroque musics (Bach, Vivaldi, ...etc).  Then what cable would you
recommend in this case ?
Do you have any other recommendations for other cases ?


-- 
____   ____  ____ ____________________________________________________________
|  |   |  |  |  |  W. Woody  Jin (wjin@cs.uh.edu)     
|  |   |  |__|  |  Grad Student, Research Assistant. 
|  |   |        |  Department of Computer Science    Office - PGH572
\  |---|  |--|  |  University of Houston             713-747-2130 (home)
 \____/|__|  |__| ____________________________________________________________
Newsgroups: rec.audio
From: David Brady <Brady_David@Tandem.Com>
Subject: Re: Big CD changer
X-Xxdate: Thu, 10 Sep 92 19:32:03 GMT
Organization: Tandem, Inc.
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d9
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 18:26:41 GMT

In article <18mie0INN8fs@agate.berkeley.edu> Matthew J. Henken,
henken@ocf.berkeley.edu writes:
>I believe Madrigal makes an enormous cube which holds/plays 100 CDs.
>
>A wonderful product if you can afford the $13K!

I've seen the ad for this and it certainly looks impressive (and
expensive).

As an excercise: What is required to build a CD changer?  It seems that
something could be built (certainly not by me) that handles one-hundred
(or more) CDs but is more in the $2000 dollar price range.

Given the following:
Only basic funtionality is required for it to operate - select a CD and
get it to the platter.
Advanced functionality would be provided through a PC interface of some
sort.

So,
How would the CDs be stored?  (Side by side in a big rack - ex.
||||||||||||?)
What sort of device would be needed to (1) grab the correct CD, (2) put
the CD in the platter, (3) pick it back up, and (4) put it back where it
belongs? (I'd imagine the cheapest method using the rack above would
require a 'hand' which moves along the rack via a rod.  The hand would
grab a CD, rotate it out of its position, and move it to one end of the
rack and let the player have it.)

For the advanced students:
How about having TWO CD players in this system (perhaps on both sides of
the rack) so that the next selection that the listener wants to hear can
be pre-loaded while the current track is playing?  Wouldn't that be great
for parties?  Effortless segues!

Have fun.
-----------------------------------
email: Brady_David@Tandem.Com

Remember, David Brady IS Lee Harvey!
Newsgroups: rec.audio
From: kester@mte.ncsu.edu (Dan Kester)
Subject: Re: Jacked up CD prices again
Organization: Mat. Sci. & Eng., NCSU
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 14:47:46 GMT

In article <1992Sep14.230606.25358@scic.intel.com> sbradley@scic.intel.com
(Seth Bradley) writes:
>In article <khaw.716505866@parcplace.com> khaw@parcplace.com (Mike Khaw)
writes:
>>Refuse to buy at those prices. Suppliers will charge whatever consumers
>>are *willing* to pay. I generally try to buy at so-called "sale" prices
>>at Tower, which range from $7.99 to $12.99, with most falling at $11.99.
>>Very rarely will I pay more than that.
>
>And you can get those kind of prices, every day, on most any major label
>CD, from Noteworthy Music, (800) 648-7972.  I've ordered from them twice,


Another suggestion is to look for small, independent stores.  They tend to have
better prices than the large chains.  Plus you support local people as well as
supporting competition to the large chains.  Smaller, cheaper stores can often
be found around university campuses.
Newsgroups: rec.audio,aus.hi-fi
From: eisenhof@zax.eda.teradyne.com (Karl Eisenhofer)
Subject: Re: Choosing cassette decks
Keywords: decisions, decisions, *1000
Reply-To:  eisenhofer@maven.dnet.teradyne.com
Organization: Teradyne, Inc. Boston MA
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 1992 14:45:33 GMT

In article <1992Sep4.003836.26931@morrow.stanford.edu> yoda@deathstar.Stanford.EDU (Terry Lee) writes:
> At under $400,
>the Cassette Deck 2 will blow any other tape deck, even ones over a 
>thousand dollars.  (I'm excluding way out of the way manufacturers like
>Tandberg).  Properly biased to a metal tape, it achieve perfectly flat
>frequency response from 20-20k Hz at 0 db.  When you read a spec, it's
>always at -20 db, but you've recorded enough tapes to know that no one
>records music at -20 db.  We record music around 0 db.  It is as close
>to a CD as you will ever get.  The only thing it lacks is the dynamic
>range of a CD.  Supposedly, CD dynamic range is beyond the range of the
>human ear, and metal tapes are just a tad under.
>

I am thinking about purchasing the NAK Cassette Deck 1.5 (I already
own a Cassette Deck 2)  The 1.5 seems to go for about $650 to $700
depending on when and where you shop.  This deck is a three head
deck and has other little recorder's features such as pitch control.
My question is, is the extra $300 worth it?  I want this deck to do
dubbing of live tapes.  Is the 1.5 really that much better than the
2?

Karl


-- 
Karl Eisenhofer  SPIKE  eisenhofer@maven.dnet.teradyne.com
"Searchlight casting for faults in the clouds of delusion"
Newsgroups: rec.audio
From: bobdavis@mighty.viewlogic.com (Bob Davis)
Subject: Sennheiser parts
Followup-To: bobdavis@viewlogic.com
Originator: bobdavis@mighty
Keywords: headphones
Organization: Viewlogic Systems, Inc.
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 13:03:15 GMT


Sorry for posting this, but can't mail to originator!
---
In article <NAN.92Sep11141509@ertou.ucsc.edu>, you write:

|> One side of my Senheiser hd430 headphones stopped working recently. I
|> checked that it wasn't the cord that was the problem. Since the
|> headphones disconnect easily from the cord and the headset, I am
|> hoping I can just replace the single speaker instead of buying a whole
|> new set. 
|>
|> Does anyone know if this is possible? Who makes Senheiser headphones?
|> They say they are made in Germany. Is there a US distributor I could
|> deal with? 

You can definitely do this; I have in the past (in fact, with a pair of
430's which I no longer own).  Just contact Sennheiser directly and ask
how to get the part -- replacement unit.  You'll need to keep the
pad etc. since they sell you only the drive part.  Consider
replacing the foam pads (inside part) when ordering the other part, if
you need this.

   Sennheiser
   6 Vista Dr.
   Old Lyme, CN (connecticutt) 06371

I'd call information in this town and call them.
You may be able to charge the part and have it sent immediately.

|> If replacing the part isn't feasible, can anyone recommend a good set
|> of headphones to replace them?

New Sennheisers, Beyer 990 pros (a step up), Grados (two steps up).


-- 
Bob Davis -- bobdavis@viewlogic.com
"What good is life if you can't be ridiculous?"
From: MATGBB@LURE.LATROBE.EDU.AU (BYRNES,Graham)
Newsgroups: rec.audio
Subject: Re: Very expensive cables
Date: 14 Sep 92 02:09:48 GMT
Organization: La Trobe University
X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.24

In <23653@alice.att.com> andrew@alice.att.com writes:

> 
> 
> 
> 	while despairing of another round of useless flaming about wires,
> i will take aim at techno-bigots like graham b. 
> 
> 	as usual, they ignore the interaction between amp, cables and
> speakers. even if your goal is perfectly flat response (and that is
> debatable), then maybe an exotic (perhaps highish capacitance for example)
> cable will do that for your speakers and amplifier. of course, if
> a speaker was an absolutely uniform load to a zero output impendance
> amplifier, then what you say is probably true. unfortunately, i don't
> have such amplifiers/speakers.
> 
> 	i might point out that i do use 16ga speaker cables in my current
> system and they are not the weakest link. when they are, i will work
> on them then.
> 
> 			andrew
Dear Andrew,
Perhaps you could clarify the nature of this interaction? I suggested that
high capacitance cables could cause amp problems. I suggested that low impedance
speakers could make cables more critical. I even said that in the end, there
MIGHT exist non-linear effects undreamt of by techno-bigots such as I, so the 
ultimate test should be a double blind listening test. Are you reading, Andrew?
In fact, I only said that if it was not possible to find anyone who could
hear the difference between two cables, it was not reasonable to advertise
one as having virtues not posessed by the other.
Your friendly local techno-bigot,
Graham
From: my00@gte.com (Michael Yuen)
Newsgroups: rec.audio
Subject: Re: How do I clean LPs?
Date: 11 Sep 92 14:53:03 GMT
Followup-To: rec.audio
Organization: GTE Labs

In article <1992Sep11.122545.20404@watson.ibm.com>, pcb2@watson.ibm.com
(Allegro Users' Account 2) wrote:
> 
> > 	As long as I am concerned, the best system to clean LP's is the
> > Nitty Gritty machine.  It's like a big vacuum for vinyls.  The problem is the
> > price.  The best way to use it without paying that price is to find a friend
> > who has it, wich I did.  The result is surprizing.
> > 
>         I've used a VIP 16.5 which has worked well on most albums, but I
>   keep running across albums that still crackle alot after multiple cleanings.
>        
>         Is this the way the album is cut, The material, my cleaning procedures
>   or the recording.
> 
>   This has happened with new and old records. Cheskys Pertruska which I have
>   only played 3 times is full of crackle which I can't seem to remove.
>         I dont think another solution would make a big difference, I'm using
>   Last. 
> 
>   This is the proceedure I usually use.
>         Vacume recordings with only light surface dust, by holding the cover
>   up, so the vacume brush barley touches the record. I do this cleaning without
>   using solution assuming the solution  will only help to  carry surface dust
>   down into the groves. 
>         If the disk is still noisy or needs a good cleaning then I give it a 
>   thorough cleaning with a liquid.
> 
> 
>                                                Mike Jackyra 


I have a VPI 16.5, and I would never use the machine (vacuum or otherwise)
without first wetting the LP thoroughly with solution.  As a matter of
fact, VPI recommends to shut off the vacuum as soon as all the liquid have
been picked up ( usually after 1 or 2 revolutions).

As for the crackles, it could be resulted from too much static electricity
build-up on the LP surface. Try use an anti-static gun on the LP before
playing. I have noticed that good vinyls like those from Chesky are more
susceptible to static build-up. I am using a Merrill turntable, the platter
and the motor housing are grounded. This seemed to help somewhat.

-Mike

-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+
Michael Yuen                   Tel - (617)466-2919
GTE Labs                          Internet - my00@gte.com
40 Sylvan Road                 FAX - (617)466-2130
Waltham, MA 02254
Newsgroups: rec.audio
From: bwdavies@rodan.acs.syr.edu (davies)
Subject: Subwoofers: premade or kit? Help!
Summary: should I buy or build?
Organization: Hell's Snack Bar, where *ALL* the food is hot!
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 92 17:36:57 EDT

Through a stroke of incredible bad luck I've been forced to get rid of
my KEF 104.2s and I'm going back to using my 102s as my main speaker.
Now, while I like the sound of the 102s a lot (I bought them, right?)
they do tend to lack a little in the low end.

What I'm looking for is recommendations for subwoofers.  I'd like
to spend under $500, and I'm more than willing to buy used equipment
if I've heard of the company before.  I've listened to a couple of the
Velodyne subwoofers, which are just about the only "high-end"
subwoofers I'm likely to find in this area.  I liked what I heard, but
I don't think I can afford them right now.

So, can anybody out there recommend any good kits.  I'd like to build
a subwoofer with its own amp.

I'll post a summary of responses if there's enough interest.

Thanks in advance, brian.

(Man, do I wish I'd read all the recent subwoofer articles instead of
saying to myself, "Heck, I don't need a subwoofer.  I'll just kill
those.")
 
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Hell's Snack Bar            ...he remembers his father's last words: "Stay out
bwdavies@mailbox.syr.edu       of churches, son.  All they got a key to is the
bwdavies@sunrise.BITNET        shithouse."          --William S. Burroughs
From: quenelle@netcom.com (Chris Quenelle)
Newsgroups: rec.audio
Subject: Wanted: SIARE tweeter
Keywords: wanted, tweeter
Date: 9 Sep 92 19:47:28 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest)


I'm looking for a SIARE tweeter.

If anyone has catalogs of speaker components they could glance at,
it would be really helpful.  I'm looking for pointers to where I
can get a replacement tweeter for a set of speakers.

The logo on the speaker element is three wavy lines with a bulge
in each line, other marks on the speaker are:
	
	haute fide'lite'   (I can guess what this means ...)

	SIARE
       __/ \__		   (where the 'A' connects with the lines underneath)


Anyone heard of them before ?

I have an address for the company which made the kit from which the
speakers were made.  It is in Norfolk, Great Britain.  The name of the company
is Falcon Acoustics Ltd.  If anyone knows if F. A. is still in business
(or even better, has a phone number for them), please let me know.

Thanks for taking the time to read this.

--chris


-- 
@---@  
\. ./  Chris Quenelle
 \ /   (510) 373-8023
==o==  quenelle@netcom.com
From: wmp@wperkins.UUCP (William M. Perkins)
Newsgroups: rec.audio
Subject: Looking for Dual cassette decks for recording long sessions 
Date: 7 Sep 92 15:21:50 EDT
Distribution: na
Organization: The Greenwood

I am looking for a better quality dual cassette tape deck ($200-500) that
will allow recording of long sessions of up to 4 hours unattended.  I want
a deck that will record both sides of a cassette in the first drive before
switching over to the second drive to record, on both sides, the rest of
the session.  It would be nice if this deck could auto-reverse or switch
to the second drive upon the initial sensing of the tape leader to minimize
the loss of recorded material.  Another nice feature to have would to be
able to switch back to the first drive to continue recording after the tape
on the second drive is full and a new tape had been inserted in the first
drive.  Can anybody suggest a cassette deck with these features?

    Bill

---
William M. Perkins                Usenet - wmp%wperkins.UUCP@virginia.edu
The Greenwood                       or     ..!uunet!virginia!wperkins!wmp
+1 804 750 2101                    BIX   - wmperkins
Newsgroups: rec.audio
From: goyal@utdallas.edu (Mohit K. Goyal)
Subject: Sony formally introduces MD on 9-10-92
Organization: Univ. of Texas at Dallas
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 04:06:47 GMT

Hello.  Just thought I would relay this bit of news to the rest of you:

Our local news station here in Dallas, Texas, KRLD 1080 AM, announced

today Sony formally introduced the MD.  The segment I listened to was

not very long but they listed the benefits of MD, said the sound 

quality was not quite as good, "an audiophile who compared both the

formats would probably notice a difference" (quote from a Sony guy).

The Sony guy also said that a MD player and recorder *lists* for $750

in the US and a player only *lists* for $500-$550. (I can't remember)

Anyways, I found this exciting for two reasons:

1. These are the LIST prices which means that they will be less in 

   stores.

2. These are the prices on *brand new* equipment.  They should fall
  
   noticeably soon.  Remember how highly priced CD players were when

   they first came out?

Finally, the Sony guy said prerecorded MD's will cost the same as or a

little less than CD's, and the blank MD's should be less than $10.

-----------------------

How long do people think it will be before prices start falling on the

MD equipment?  I don't know how long it was before prices of CD players

went down from their intial high prices.

Oh yeah, I got the impression that the players were being released today,

or very soon, but the Sony guy never gave a date and the newspeople never

asked him.  They just said "Today Sony introduced the Mini Disc"

Does anyone know when these might start appearing in the US?

3rd Quarter?  4th Quarter?  JITFC? (Just In Time For Christmas)

Thanks.

D
D

D
D
D
From: kevinm@ocf.berkeley.edu (Kevin Miller)
Newsgroups: rec.audio
Subject: Re: opinions on technics SAGX505 reciever
Date: 13 Sep 1992 06:07:40 GMT
Organization: U.C. Berkeley Open Computing Facility
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: tornado.berkeley.edu

In article <1992Aug18.151059.3649@news.eng.convex.com> lcoe@convex.com (Loren Coe) writes:
>i am about to buy a new technics reciever.  unfortunately i have only
>a newspaper ad and a price.  it claims 110w/ch and dolby pro-logic
>for only 296.97.  it seems to share the same case as the SAG1010(?), it
>is taller than many 100w/ch units.
>
>can anyone familiar with the technics line offer an opinion of this
>unit, the SAGX505?
>
I considered this reciever when I was looking for Pro-Logic machines.  I was
just about set on this reciever, but eventually decided against it for 2 
reasons:
	1.  According to the salesman at the store where I got mine (and
	confirmed by me), this receiver tends to run rather hot.

	2.  Dolby recommends that your center channel be the same wattage
	as the mains.  If I remember correctly, the center channel on the
	Technics is only 10 watts. Yuck.

I ended up getting a Kenwood KR-7030 and am very satisfied.

Kevin
kevinm@ocf.berkeley.edu


Newsgroups: rec.audio,misc.forsale
From: ssr@cypress.com (Bapcha/FPGA)
Subject: Re: FOR SALE: Brand New Yamaha DSP-A1000
Organization: Cypress Semiconductor, San Jose, CA
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 14:04:25 GMT

In article <1992Sep8.191023.21746@phoenix.irv.icl.com> cht@phoenix.irv.icl.com (Cuong Tran) writes:
>
>I am posting this for my friend. Please contact him at the phone
>number below:
>
>*****************************************************************
>
>For Sale: DSP-A1000 in brand new unopened box. 
>	  Asking $1,250.00
>
>If interested, please contact Vu at 1-408-263-4830.
>
>*****************************************************************
>
>-- Cuong Tran



Geeze man.... it is available for cheaper than that thro' mail order....

-- 
Bapcha - A very bad boy from Cypress Semiconductor
3901 N.  First Strasse
San Jose,  CA 95134, 408-943-2719
Newsgroups: rec.audio
From: jstimson@jarthur.claremont.edu (John Stimson)
Subject: Record player adjustments
Organization: Harvey Mudd College, Claremont, CA 91711
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 18:40:06 GMT

I just purchased a Technics turntable with no manual.  Being totally 
unfamiliar with record playback (beyond a Radio Shack player I had when I
was very young) I'm curious about two adjustments on the player.  

The first is the tone arm counterbalance.  How should the tonearm be balanced?
Neutrally?  With some weight on the stylus end?  With lots of weight on the
stylus end?

The other is "anti-skate".  Right now, it's set to zero.  What does this do,
and how should I adjust it?  I've pretty much figured the rest out.

Lastly, I currently have the ground wire connected to my amp chassis, and the
amp doesn't have a 3-way plug.  Will that work, or should I find a "true"
ground?

							Thanks,
							John Stimson
From: exulme@exu.ericsson.se (Michael Englund, T-TDT, x0996)
Newsgroups: rec.audio
Subject: Re: Audio in HI-Fi Stereo VCR
Date: 9 Sep 92 02:57:24 GMT
Reply-To: exulme@exu.ericsson.se
Organization: Ericsson Network Systems, Inc.

According to my knowledge the Hi-Fi sound is recorded on an FM-carrier alongside
the videosignal (diagonally over the tape) whereas the lo-fi sound (mostly
mono but in some machines stereo) is recorded along the edge of the tape (lower
speed <=> less bandwidth) The fact that two different "tracks" are used makes it
possible to record hi-fi background sounds while filming with a camcorder and later
add a narrative voice on the lo-fi track, without disturbing the original hi-fi
recording. VCRs are typically equipped with a three position selector for hi-fi,
lo-fi and mixed sound (sound from both tracks added together).

This has most likely been pointed out by others already, but just in case.

Now to my question. Why don't hi-fi VCRs have recording level controls anymore?
What do they use instead? Fixed level, automatically adjusted level, or what.
If they use automatically adjusted recording level, won't this give rise to "pumping",
i.e. the volume being increased in quiet passages and abruptly decreased once there
is a sound. If they use a fixed level, how about overload/saturation? 

I recently bought a Sony SL-696 (or something) and was surprised to find that the
recording level controls had been stripped off. Sony used to have them before.
I ended up returning the machine since it couldn't even auto-track its own recordings.
Obviously the machine had not even been exposed to the simplest of tests before
it left the factory. 

Now I'm leaning towards a JVC HR-D6800 (or something) with S-VHS. This one doesn't
seem to have recording level controls either, though!!! Can somebody explain
how they get away with this, really.

BTW, do I have to have an S-video input on my TV to watch S-VHS? Can I dub ordinary
VHS tapes from an S-VHS tape (assuming I have two VCRs and at least one of them S-VHS, 
of course)?

Has anyone tried to make VHS copies by recording on S-VHS first an dubbing a second
tape using VHS? How does this dubbed VHS tape compare to one made directly from the
broadcast?

Wow, that was a lot of questions, hope you can help me a little.

Regards,






---
Michael L. Englund
Ericson Network Systems, Software Verification Techniques
Richardson, TX  75081, USA
Internet:  exulme@exu.ericsson.se   phone:  +1-214-997-0996
Newsgroups: rec.audio
From: mjscott@valve.heart.rri.uwo.ca (Mike J. Scott)
Subject: Amp/speakers cut out -- Why?
Organization: The John P. Robarts Research Institute, London, Ontario
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 14:45:59 GMT

Hi,
   Perhaps one of you rec.audio.wizards can answer my question.
Either my amp, or my speakers have an automatic cut-out circuit
in them.  My amp is rated at 100 watts and the speakers have 100w
power handling, but the cut-out generally kicks in when the amp is
only at half volume.  How come?  
   Relevant parts of the system are:
	Pioneer VSX-4400 amp
	18 gauge copper cable (~20 foot runs)
	dB PLUS 990e 2-way speakers (Canadian brand)
		- Power Handling max. 100w rms
		- min. power 10w rms
		- efficiency 98dB(avg. room)
		- freq. response 30H - 22kHz
   Oh, by cut-out I mean that sound stops for 3-5 seconds then
resumes.
thanks!

Michael J. Scott                       R.R.I.,  U of Western Ontario 
mjscott@valve.heart.rri.uwo.ca         'Need a good valve job?' 

###########  Western . . .  not a school, an attitude   ###########
Newsgroups: rec.audio