HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: slk6p@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Brewing Supplies in Chicago
Date: 19 Aug 92 23:53:13 MDT
Organization: Utah State University

In article <1992Aug19.214148.16771@midway.uchicago.edu>, hasn@midway.uchicago.edu (Sheheryar Hasnain) writes:
> Any one know of any stores in Chicago other than Brewin Beer and Indoor Garden.
> The Yellow Pages had "Brew for less" but when I called, the number had been
> disconnected (hint!).  Since I dont have a car, a store closer to me would
> help (plus I cant believe that Chicago could have only 2 stores!).
> Thanks

Fred Lane Co  1515 W. berwyn Ave  Chic.IL 60640  (312)  275-5600

I've never tried them so I dunno. But they are not the ones you mentioned.
Berwyn ave...That could be downtown. It's been a decade since I've been in
Chi-town, so ....you tell me.		G'luck    JDW
From: slk6p@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Canadian Pisswater-Love American Style
Date: 18 Aug 92 20:32:21 MDT
Organization: Utah State University

|> Canadian pisswater beers (probably due to their advertising), but
   ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^                               
|> generally not too bad.
|> 

[deleted] 

|> Ted Goldblatt    ted@telematics.com     (305) 351-4367
|>     Telematics Intl., Inc.   Ft. Lauderdale, FL


  Canadian pisswater ???  How did you base your opinion on Canadian beer
???  Did you tasted Canadian brand brew in/for U.S. market ???   

  If you consider our beer as piss, I like to see what are your words to  
descrive the taste of a Budmilloors or a Coronna... (It's the rice !!! :-) )


FYI  Corona is a mexican beer (correct me if I'm wrong- I know you will!)
So don't blame us (americans) for a beer once rumored to actually contain piss. 
(The rumor was full of crap by the way).

I don't mean to get into the middle of this "heated" debate, as we americans
can't truly make any claims for the quality of our commercial beers.

If it weren't for us faithful homebrewers and the micro brewweries of this
country we'd be swimming deep in swill.
		Just a random note from a passerby.....JDW
From: abirenbo@pollux.cel.scg.hac.com (Aaron Birenboim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Mead/Cider making and apple-juice preservatives
Date: 12 Aug 92 22:23:00 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Hughes Aircraft Colorado Engineering Labs

In article <1992Aug12.152632.18815@sbcs.sunysb.edu> owen@cs.sunysb.edu (Owen Kaser) writes:
>I recently made a batch of the Killer Mead whose recipe was posted
>a couple of weeks ago.  Unfortunately, I didn't read the label of
>the apple cider bottle until afterward.  The juice had had sorbic acid
>added.  I presume this is related to the stablizer chemical  that
>winemakers use to inhibit fermentation,

perhaps... but you may be ok.  it coule just be some generic
all purpose acid added for tartness or to inhibit those beasties
who do not like much acidity (yeast tolerate acid very well)

> and it probably explains the
>pitifully little fermentation I've seen.

how much honey did u use.  honey just ferments darn slow.  most likely
the problem is yeast chock or lack of must aeration.  you might
want to risk infection, and shake the bottle to give the yeasties
some O2 which they use to multiply.  a higher yeast population
may ferment more quickly.

>Anyway, 1. Is this batch doomed?

maybe not.  try aeration and re-pitching first.  Also... if you used
sulphites, sometimes the yeast do not tolerate this as well as one
might hope.  once again, re-pitching may help.

>        2. Are there any preservatives that can be deactivated by
>           boiling, or some other trick?

if all else fails its worth a try.  boiling will certainly drive off any
sulphites left in the must.

the common stabilizers i am familiar with are _______ sorobate.
I think i have been using potassium sorobate, but i believe
i have seen sodium sorobate, or some other chemical in the same family,
in some ciders and soda pop.

--
Aaron Birenboim                                |I am just too tired to think
abirenbo%rigel.cel.scg.hac.com@hac2arpa.hac.com|of a good quote.
abirenbo@isis.cs.du.edu                        |    - ChickenHead
w (303) 344-6486                               |
From: tachaimov@hou.amoco.com (Tom Chaimov)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Soda pop, etc.?
Date: 20 Aug 92 13:12:28 GMT
Reply-To: tachaimov@hou.amoco.com (Tom Chaimov)
Organization: Amoco Production Company

I just got a catalog from a mail order outfit
in Rhode Island.  In it they advertise soda pop
extracts, birch beer, ginger ale, root beer, etc.
I thought it might be nice to have some of this
on hand for any non-alcohol-drinking friends I
might have over (I'm still trying to think of one...).

 1.  Anybody ever try this stuff?  How'd it go?
Care to offer advice?

And for those who do their first stage fermenting
in a glass carboy (and we're talking *real* beer
now):

  2. How do y'all get your cooled wort in there?
You can't exactly pour it in like you would a
plastic bucket; and a siphon, besides
being painfully slow, wouldn't introduce
much oxygen.  Didn't I recently read here that
a little splashing is good just before adding
the yeasties?

Cheers,
Tom
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: sheppard_r@kosmos.wcc.govt.nz
Subject: Re: Stout kits
Reply-To: sheppard_r@kosmos.wcc.govt.nz
Organization: Wellington City Council, Wgtn, NZ
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 03:30:33 GMT

In article <1992Aug8.215626.6281@npal.rn.com>, esharp@npal.rn.com writes:
>I have already brewed several batches of ales and weissbier from kits, and
>would like to try my hand at stouts.  How difficult are they, any hints, who
>has a good kit, and any other tidbits you could share will be greatly
>appriciated (sp?)
>Thanks,
>Edwin  Esharp@npal.rn.com
>

Are these liquid kits..??

I have just (some weeks back) brewed a Muntons Export Stout Kit, 
this as it comes is a 24 pint kit as recomended, but can be made up as a 40
pint kit....

I used it as a 24 pint kit, It had turned out some 200% better than the
Stout that I can get in the shops here, and just after 10 days old, and with
tap water with lot of chemicals in it.....

So if you are into simple wet kit, this gets my 200% vote...


Roger...........           sheppard_r@kosmos.wcc.govt.nz

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jimf@cbnewse.cb.att.com (james.r.fehrenbacher)
Subject: Questions about mead/wining
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 19:01:15 GMT


I'm a novice just getting into winemaking (not to be confused
with whining). I have some downhome recipes for mead and
other wines. From reading this newsgroup it appears that a
special yeast must be used for winemaking, not the stuff you
buy at the grocery store. Is that correct?

Also, my recipes suggest using gallon jugs capped with 
balloons for the fermentation process. Is that adequate for
making decent wine? Or is soem mroe specialized method 
needed?
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: ulick@angelico.helios.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford)
Subject: Re: hi-tech aeration
Organization: University of Notre Dame, Notre Dame
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 15:24:09 GMT

In article <22944@hacgate.SCG.HAC.COM> abirenbo@rigel.cel.scg.hac.com (Aaron Birenboim) writes:
>
>I'm planning to make a wort aerator by attachching an in-line bacteria
>grade air filter to an acquarium pump outlet.  my question is,
>when should i begin and end my aeration?
>

I'd say after a few hours.  In experiments I often have to get water
in equilibrium with the gas and after 5-15 minute in a small vessel
98% of saturation is reached.  For a low air flow of an aquarium
pump through a filter a few hours would be OK.  Obviously yeasts
will be consuming oxygen at this stage, so I would say that the 
length of time will depend on the pitching rate.

>my best guess is to begin aeration right after pitching yeast,
>and continue until the first signs of fermentation begin???

Yes, this sounds good, but how will you be able to tell if fermentation
begins?  The majority of bubbles on the top of your wort and through
your fermentation lock or blowoff tube will be air from the aquarium
pump.

Also, any sugar consumed by yeast respiration will become an
aleged global warmer prior to consumption, rather than after :-),
so I guess one should aerate no more than necessary.  How about an
hour or two less than your normal lag time as a rule of thumb?

One thing about aquarium equipment is the wooden gas sparge thingies.
These really disperse air brilliantly, but hoe can they be sterilized?
They usually have soft plastic parts so heat is out of the question.
And I doubt if Cl could soak into all crevises, or back out again.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 
+ 'There was a  master come unto the earth, + Ulick Stafford, PP-ASEL       +
+    born in the holy land of Indiana,      + Dept of Chemical Engineering, +
+ in the mystical hills east of Fort Wayne'.+ Notre Dame, IN 46556          +
+      B'fhearr liom bheith ag eitilt.      +    ulick@bach.helios.nd.edu   +
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From: slk6p@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Bar Supply Equpt- taps +
Date: 21 Aug 92 23:23:31 MDT
Organization: Utah State University

I've had a lot of requests for this so I decided to post it.
I was trying to avoid over comercialization on the net, but hey...
(Disclaimer- I have no connection with Dennis- I just got the 
catalog, and it had fun stuff.  )

This place has bar supplies.  Real bar stuff.  Taps and high quality 
brass, chrome, ss.... all that kinda schtuff.  They also gots all the 
parts and connectors for everything you could imagine, and a 
few you couldn't.

        Oliver D. Ennis Inc
        4151-53 Sepulveda Blvd.
        Culver City, CA. 90230
        (213) 391-2228   397-8190
        (800) 1800 84ENNIS  843-6647

Good brewage.  They are not a brewkit or grain supplier.  
Just keg hardware.

                        J. Wyllie,    The Coyote.
PS:  Not to be rude, but I won't answer any more posts on this, cause
here's you answer!  
PPS:  I should be getting more catalogs from some of these types of places.
I'll keep ya'll informed.


Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: bfbrown@athena.mit.edu (Brian F. Brown)
Subject: labels...
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 15:45:40 GMT

I was just wondering how difficult it is to make and apply your own
labels to bottles...  I'm not really fond of writing codes on caps
to remember which bottle is which brew, and I think having a label
adds a certain sophistication to your homebrew...  any thoughts???

-BB
From: dougd@uts.amdahl.com (Douglas DeMers)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Wyeast Bavarian Wheat (Re: esters, banana)
Summary: Another data point for Wyeast Bavarian Wheat
Date: 12 Aug 92 17:17:56 GMT
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

Slipping away for a moment from allegations of Wyeast contamination,
In <binkley.713478602@beagle> binkley@boulder.Colorado.EDU (Jon Binkley) writes:

>         [...]                                          We
>had some problems with the faulty packaging of last year (a problem
>which Wyeast has corrected) and have recently been unhappy with
>the Bavarian Wheat strain (no cloviness even when fermented warm;
>a problem others have reported).

Here's another data point for the Wyeast Bavarian.  I recently made a
batch (and have a follow-on batch waiting bottling) of pretty generic
wheat beer using the Wyeast Bavarian wheat.  The packet was probably
more than six months old, but I had no problem with viability.  The
wheat beer this produced had all the cloviness expected.  At the brew
club meeting last weekend, one person turned up their nose and remarked
"Eeeuw - cloves!" (he was kidding, I think!), but of course cloviness
_is_ the style.  This batch was residing in my garage during
fermention, where (unfortunately) the temperatures can range up to 85F
or even 90F.  May all of my wheat beers turn out as tasty as this one!
As always, YMMV.

I'm happy with it, and plan to enter it in the upcoming SAAZ Fest in
September.
-- 
Douglas DeMers,      | (408-746-8546) | dougd@uts.amdahl.com
Amdahl Corporation   |                | {sun,uunet}!amdahl!dougd
  [It should be obvious that the opinions above are mine, not Amdahl's.]
  [            "A CPU cycle is a terrible thing to waste."             ]
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jimf@cbnewse.cb.att.com (james.r.fehrenbacher)
Subject: brewing supplies in CHicago area
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 19:52:46 GMT

Two places I have found.

Chicagoland Winemakers, INC. (wine and beer)
689 W. North Avenue
Elmhurst, IL 60126
708-834-0507

Lil Olde Winemaking Shoppe (wine and beer)
Wilshire Lane
Kaneville, Il   (small town 15 miles west of Batavia)
708-557-2523
From: eel@bach.udel.edu (Eric Lowenthal)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Question: KGB BITTERS From Cat's Meow and 1st Batch
Keywords: QUESTION, 1st Batch, Bitters, Help
Date: 13 Aug 92 13:57:05 GMT
Followup-To: eel@bflyxn5.che.udel.edu
Organization: University of Delaware


For my very first batch of homebrew I choose to try to make up a batch of KGB
Bitters per the recipe in the Cat's Meow.  Per the comments of the amateur
reviewer listed at the end of the recipe, I have tried to lighten up on the
finishing hops by using a 1/4 oz of hops in the final steeping stage rather
than 1/2, and I intend to dry-hop an additional 1/4 oz in my secondary a
few days before I bottle rather than adding the additional 1/2 to the
cool wort just before pitching as the recipe seems to indicate.  1) Any
thought on this hop-lightening plan?  Sampling at the time of racking (a few
days ago), suggests that the beer will have a delicious bitter/hoppy flavour
going down, but may also have a lingering bitter aftertaste.
2) Have you noticed this aftertaste at racking time,
and if so, does it tend to mellow during secondary fermation and during the
conditioning phase in the bottle?  Also, I am worrying about my first
batch considerably since transferring to the secondary.  After about
two-three days of brake-neck fermation in the primary in the heat of the
philadelphia summer, when I transferred to the secondary activity almost
stopped completely.  I am worried that I have killed the yeast in the
summer heat; during primary fermentation the temperature in my apartment
reached perhaps 80 F due to the weather.  The hydrometer readings that I
have taken indicate that I have fermented to about 4 - 4 1/2 alcohol.  3) I
am wondering if you have seen similar tranquillity after about 3 days of
fermenting or if I should consider repitching at some point before
bottling?  Am I just a nervous 1st time brewer that should "relax...." or
is there cause for concern?

Thanks in advance for you attention to this letter.

Regards,
EEL

Please send responses to: eel@bflyxn5.che.udel.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: gak@wrs.com (Richard Stueven)
Subject: Re: PLASTIC (I know, yuck...)
Reply-To: gak@wrs.com
Organization: Wind River Systems, Inc.
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 18:52:53 GMT

In article 27563@athena.mit.edu, bfbrown@athena.mit.edu (Brian F. Brown) writes:
>I will accept flames bravely, but I really want to know what is so bad about
>using plastic carboys for fermentation and exactly how bad it is;

I used a plastic bucket for my first ten batches or so, then switched
to a glass carboy.  I prefer the carboy for this reason alone:  I can
see the beer!  It's more fun that way.

I still use the bucket when my carboy is tied up with a previous
batch.

Just make sure that your bucket is clean, just like everything else,
and try to avoid scratching the inside (don't give the bugs any place
to hide).

---
gak
107/H/3&4
From: pyle@intellistor.com (Norm Pyle)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: The use of Grolsch bottles?
Date: 13 Aug 92 13:21:28 GMT
Organization: Intellistor, Longmont, CO

In article <1992Aug11.200136.22447@news.nd.edu> ulick@chopin.helios.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford) writes:
>I read an article in the latest Zymurgy where the use of Grolsh bottles was
>suggested to save the expense of buying a capper.  I laughed.  Here 2 packs 

...long story about the cost of Grolsch versus other beer...

Ulick,
The trick is to find the bottles EMPTY.  I got mine for less than 25c per
bottle from a brewer who's kegging now (and they're ALL brown).  I think I
paid $20 for about 90 bottles, and I didn't have to drink a drop of it
(Grolsch is just mediocre IMHO).  Its not always easy to find empties but a
little planning and work and a good amount of patience will pay off (try
flea-markets, bars, antique stores, etc.).

Good Luck Bottle Hounds,
Norm
Xref: sparky rec.crafts.brewing:4512 alt.beer:4746
From: jkdickin@yoho.uwaterloo.ca (John K. Dickinson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing,alt.beer
Subject: Re: r.c.b.CLASSIFIED SECTION
Date: 12 Aug 92 18:32:57 GMT
Organization: University of Waterloo

In article <1992Aug12.053858.7689@ddsw1.mcs.com> arf@ddsw1.MCS.COM (Jack Schmidling) writes:
>
> 
>                rec.crafts.brewing-forsale
....
....
> I would insist on only the following restrictions:
> 
>   The same item shall not be offered or requested more than   
>  once in a 30 day period.  
> 
>   All entries should be limited to 5 lines per sender.
				^^^^^^^^^^^^^
		How about 5 lines per item? Especially if the seller has
unusual items (requiring a description) or so many items that it doesn't
fit in five lines. I would want a description of an Item I was considering
buying. But that is my taste and this is up to you as you said:
> 
> I do not believe this would violate net.etiquette nor do I 
> think any vote or consensus is required because I have to do 
> all the work.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

	Just 2 cents worth.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: kelly@spyro.cray.com (Matt Kelly (4274))
Subject: Spruce beer
Summary: Spruce beer
Keywords: Spruce beer
Distribution: rec.crafts.brewing
Date: 18 Aug 92 13:30:37 CDT



I am fairly new to homebrewing.  I have brewed 5 or 6 batches, using canned
extracts every time.  Some time I will try my hand at all-grain brewing, when
I work up the nerve.  (I know, relax, don't worry.....).

I read somewhere (maybe in Papazian's book?) a recipe for what was called 
"spruce beer".  In the recipe, a light ale or lager is hopped with new spruce 
growth, picked in the early spring.  This is supposed to make a very 
refreshing light beer.

My question:  Has anyone tried this recipe?  If so, was the spruce used as the
boiling hop, finishing hop, or both?  It seems to me that using spruce for
boiling hops would be a bit much.

This sounds like it would be a refreshing hot-summer-day beer.

Thanks in advance,

Matt

==============================================================================
kelly@spyro.cray.com                 |
                                     | Semper ubi sub ubi.
Opinions expressed herein are just   |
that.                                | -Julius Caesar
                                     |
==============================================================================
From: jdr@wang.com (Joe Rolfe)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: WYeast - neat stuff
Date: 13 Aug 92 16:30:56 GMT
Organization: Wang Labs, Lowell MA, USA

hi all,

well i did it - a couple of weeks ago i went and picked up three packs
of Wyeast - English, Belgian and American Ale.  I had a few extra gallons
of wort to spend to boot :}.  i started the packs transfer to 8 oz starter 
then to a pint starter.  i felt strange banging the packs o fwyeast in fear 
bursting the stuff all over the kitchen - but everthing worked out ok.

the yeast in the packs took off like a shot, with in two days all were in the
8 oz starter, English was very quick to puff, followed a day later by the
American and a day later by the Belgian.  On brew day the pint starts were
somewhat active (English the least active - due to early starting, American 
followed and the Belgian was in high foam).

i pitched the pint starters into approx 5 gallon each about 10 days later
i bottled them all.  the OG was 1041, FG English - 1009, American 1009, Belgian
1006. i did not do a transfer to secondary or chill the primary to knock out
just left them at ~60F for the entire time. i also have the main fermenter
pitched with my standard Whitbread Ale Dry yeast - i think the English Wyeast
is the pure form of this???  the main fermenter has not been bottled yet as
it is in the process of knock out - should be ready soon though.

The taste at bottling :  it was hard to tell by taste the English from the 
American, but the aroma of each was slitely different.  the Belgian was
totally different (ahhhh nice.....).  Reminded me of the yeast the Celis 
Brewery uses and a yeast i tried from a brewery in Antwerp... interesting.
My wife thought the belgian tasted horrible - but then she did not like 
the Celis White beer or the Antwerp beer either - so i guess she is consistent.

if i can make it to the next WORT PROCESSORS meeting - i'll bring along a 
couple of each, also some of a blueberry, raspberry, dryhop and the base of 
those from the last batch. hope i can make it....:)


so now for some questions about the different Wyeasts:

what is the viable cell counts in the packs? (colony forming units)
what are the doubling rates?
how old is too old (i know this is storage temp related - ideal storage
	temps assumed)

any other info - info that was not on the packs - of use?

any one out there have any other data points of intrest - i'd like to hear it??



thanks in advance

joe rolfe
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: rclopton@hoss.unl.edu (richard clopton)
Subject: Extra-Special Bitter
Organization: University of Nebraska - Lincoln
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 02:36:36 GMT

 I am looking for a bitter recipe similar to the Samuel Adams Golden
served in the Sam Adams brewpub in Philly.  A friend of mine and I
were in Philly a few weeks ago and (of course) made the trek to 
this singular home-brewers mecca.  Now we want to brew our own.
Prefer extract recipes (dry or syrup) - but we are moving to all-grain
in a few months so, any recipe is great.

Thanks,
Rich
rclopton@hoss.unl.edu

--
RICH CLOPTON           |"These chapters, then, are the annals of a long and
Parasitology (Yeehaa!) |uncompleted running.  I leave them here lest the end
University of Nebraska |come on me unawares as it does to all fugitives."
rclopton@hoss.unl.edu  |     - Loren Eiseley  'The Night Country'
Xref: sparky rec.crafts.brewing:4507 alt.beer:4741