HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang)
Subject: Re: Shoulder belts for rear seats in Golf,GTI?
Organization: Brandeis University
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 22:29:10 GMT

In article <BxzCJH.wL@umassd.edu> rgolen@UMASSD.EDU writes:
>In article <1992Nov19.151010.23193@ee.rochester.edu>, msirota@ee.rochester.edu (Mark Sirota) writes:
>>In article <mbernar-181192202706@macnet2_03.erenj.com> mbernar@erenj.com (Marcelino Bernardo) writes:
>>> As the subject says, can the GTI (1985) be retrofitted with
>>> shoulder belts for the rear seats.  Is this available from
>>> the dealer or other source?

>You can put shoulder belts on the rear in an early A2 without all that
>much trouble. On the C Pilar is a mounting point, you will have to take

Okay.  Now what about late A1 cars?  The obvious solution is to
install a roll bar behind the rear seats (I want my kids to be
REALLY safe) and put in the 6 point harness ("If you're not
going to be nice, I'm not going to release your seatbelt").

Anything more reasonable than this?

-andy
From: garrett@Ingres.COM (WE'RE ONLY HERE BECAUSE WE'RE NOT ALL HERE)
Subject: Re: Bug prices?
Summary: A few questions about bugs!
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.4-b1  
Keywords: vw beetle purchase
Organization: ASK Computer Systems, Ingres Product Division
Date: 18 Nov 92 03:58:47 GMT

In article <Bxu7MI.GyM@news.cso.uiuc.edu>, mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu (REAL LIFE?!?!  HA!!)             writes...
>I'm sure somebody out there can help me with this.... 
>Some time in the next few months (i.e. if I ever have cash again) I'm thinking
>about buying a Beetle.  I would prefer one 1964 or earlier (emissions you know)
>but I can really make do with any year.  Now before I get a million emails of
..
>Cosmetics aren't very important to me; what I need is a structurally sound Bug
>that runs well or needs relatively minor drivetrain/suspension work.  Any gues-
>ses how much I should expect to pay?  Any good Bug dealers? 
>Thanks in advance!

Speaking from someone who bought a beetle before giving it a thorough
check, and then wound up replacing almost everything on it, I think I can
give a little advice.
	First, and most important, if you don't know much about bugs
(and you don't have any friends that do), then take the bug to a GOOD
shop and have them give it a thorough check up. Believe me, it will save you
headaches and money in the long run.
	Now assuming you do know something about bugs then here are a few
things I would check. (Not in order)
	1) Look at the wiring on the back of the dash board. People tend
	  to think they are electricians when they aern't.
	  (I still have five wires that I don't know where they go)
	2) Check the front brakes. Don't believe what they tell you.
	   It cost me lots of money believing other people and it's
	   real easy to check.
	3) Give it a rough test run. Take note of the clutch in particular.
	   (To replace it you must pull the engine) Check for a delay in
	   acceleration. (The car won't accelerate fast anyway, but it shouldn't
	   sputter) 
	4) MOST IMPORTANTLY! Give it a compression check. This will tell
	   you what the engine is like inside without actually taking it
	   apart.

	Everything else is up to you, and your opinion of what you want.
I bought a 71' bug for $600 (it was probably worth about $300. But I already
knew it needed a paint job and some minor body work.) The things I mentioned
take about half and hour to an hour (depending on your experience).
	Good luck!

>Michael T. Chaffee            
>mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu (REAL LIFE?!?!  HA!!)
Subject: Re: 68 VW Bus Clutch noise?
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 04:30:24 GMT

papp@morbid.llnl.gov (Albert L. Papp III) writes:

>Recently, my Bus has started making a new noise.  When the engine is cold and just
>started, there is an annoying rumbling sound (sounds like a bearing type noise
>to me) as the car idles in neutral with the clutch pedal up.  If I push the 
>clutch all the way in (car still in neutral) the noise goes completely away.  
>Also, I noticed that pushing the clutch in allows the car to idle slightly faster.
>Is this normal, or is there some clutch resistance that shouldn't be there?  
>When the engine is all warmed up, the noise is not present regardless of clutch 
>remedy quickly or can I leave it go for awhile assuming things don't get much
>worse?

I'm far from a VW expert, but I had a similar problem with my MG Midget.  This
sounds to me like a 1st-3rd motion shaft bearing.  This bearing runs between
the input and output shafts on the transmision, and accomodates differences in
speed.  Now, the VW transaxle may not even have an arrangement like this, but
if it does, that's what I'd check.  The bearing turns fastest in neutral and
slower in each ascending gear, except fourth, which I believe is direct drive.
When the clutch is disengaged, the bearing turns very slowly if at all, so if
the bearing is wearing out, it will rumble the loudest when you are in neutral.
Try listening very carefully while driving in first; if it is in fact that 
bearing, you should be able to hear it faintly.

If it is in fact that bearing (whose name I do not know), it will need to be
replaced eventually.  You don't say whether it is loud enough to hear from the
driver's seat, but if it is, then it may be turning into a real problem.  I
can't speak for the cost of repair either, but in any case, good luck!
===
Michael T. Chaffee   |   mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu 
"Hey Mike, I saw the funniest thing last night!  There was this guy, out in the
rain, lying under a maroon MG in white pants.  Did you see him?"
"Go away, Bryan......"
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: "tom neumann" <tom.neumann@canrem.com>
Subject: what uses the 2.0l 16
Reply-To: "tom neumann" <tom.neumann@canrem.com>
Organization: Canada Remote Systems
Distribution: rec
Date: 20 Nov 92 20:51:42 EST


<HAHN@UCF1VM.BITNET> writes:

HN>    Subject: What uses the 2.0L 16V engine?

HN>o Any Jetta GLI 16V uses them
HN>o Base Passat
HN>o GTi 16V

The above is true in talking about 1990 models and later. 87-89 GTI
16V and 89 Jetta 16V had the 1.8l engine.

Tom Neumann
---
  DeLuxe 1.25 #350  I sell Volkswagens.
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mbernar@erenj.com (Marcelino Bernardo)
Subject: Shoulder belts for rear seats in Golf,GTI?
Followup-To: rec.autos.vw
Organization: Exxon Research & Engineering, Co.
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 01:25:42 GMT

As the subject says, can the GTI (1985) be retrofitted with
shoulder belts for the rear seats.  Is this available from
the dealer or other source?

Thanks.

Marcelino Bernardo
mbernar@erenj.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: powell@interlan.interlan.com (Glen D. Powell)
Subject: oxy sen ?
Organization: Racal Datacom, Inc., Boxborough, MA (1-800-LAN-TALK)
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 14:04:23 GMT

Has anyone replaced a 3-wire heated oxygen sensor with a
"regular" one-wire non-heated sensor? Any problems noted?

(I'm not concerned if it runs open-loop for an extra
minure or two on strartup.....)

Thanks,

-glen


-- 
Fundsalo Racing--73 CP RA IV 455HO Firebird GTO, 85 Quattro, 86 4000CS Quattro
The Few..... The Proud..... The Concurrently Executed.....
Ex-Alliant,   SCCA/NER, NESCC, NRA Life, GONH Life
Don't buy japanese *ANYTHING*
From: kirstein@bohemia.metronet.org (Dale Kirstein)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: MFI on a Corrado
Summary: How to do it!
Keywords: adjust MPG
Date: 23 Nov 92 06:16:43 GMT
Organization: Bohemia BBS System

I have a 90 Corrado (G60), like it a lot, but.....
ever since I bought it 2 years ago the MPG meter in the Multi Fuction 
Indicator has read about 20 percent high. In other words, if the meter
reads 37, the car is getting about 30 MPG. Of course, VW USA 
doesn't sell a service manual yet, and Bentley hasn't published
one yet. Does anyone out there in netland know a way to adjust the 
meter to read close to correctly? Am I the only one who has this problem?
Since I live in Denver, at 5400 feet above sea level, I thought the altitude
might have something to do with the problem. Thanks in advance!



Dale Kirstein
.sig pending
From: camped@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (Robert Pedersen)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Source for '77 bug floor pan?
Date: 19 Nov 92 21:11:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41


I am looking for a source (commercial or private) for floor pan half 
(driver's side) to fit a '77 bug sedan.  The present pan has rusted
through.  I have a mechanic who will do the replacement, but he is
reluctant to mess with the commercially available VW pans that
  must be modified (rails, etc.)  Does anyone know of a source
for pans that fit later model (post '70) bugs without modification?

Z
From: thk@tyres.asd.sgi.com (Tom Kong)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: How to replace broken CV joint boot?
Date: 23 Nov 92 00:46:45 GMT
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc.
NNTP-Posting-Host: tyres.asd.sgi.com


Just noticed yesterday morning that the inner boot on the right
side of my 86 gti was broken, and there wasn't any grease
oozing out, so I haven't any idea how long I've been driving
it that way, but I noticed no peculiar noises.  The outer boot
doesn't seem to be in great condition so I figure I should
replace that too.

Anyways, the Bentley manual has a few diagrams of the axle, but 
offers no verbal explanation of how one replaces the boot
(My gripe with Bentley is that it NEVER describes how a job
 is done).

From the picture, I plan to do the following, please tell me if 
I'm wrong, and I appreciate any hints/short-cut from people who have 
done it.

To remove the half-shaft, I gather I first remove the axle nut with 
the car on the ground, then remove all the 8mm 12pt bolts holding the 
inner CV joint, drop the inner CV joint, and I should be able to pull 
out (or hammer out) the half-shaft.  Once the half-shafts are removed, 
I need to remove the circlip on th inner CV joint, and the joint should
then slide right out.  Once the joint is out, the old boot can be removed
and a new one replaced.  

It isn't at all obvious from the diagrams how I can replace the outer boot.
I know I need to remove the two clamps holding the outer boot.  But does
the outer boot slide through the entire length of the drive shaft, and come
out on the inner side after the inner CV joint is completely removed?  Or do 
I somehow also disassemble the outer joint and slide out the boot from the 
front?

Thanks for any advice.

/tom
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: hvozda@wilbur.psu.edu (Eric Hvozda)
Subject: Problem: Idle blip in 1989 Golf
Summary: Request for help
Keywords: Idle clutch stop
Organization: Penn State University, Center for Academic Computing
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 92 20:22:57 GMT

I'm posting this for my father; AEG doesn't have net access :(

Vehicle:
1989 Gasoline Golf
5 speed, No goodies (not even a radio)
Problem:
About half of the time when coming to a stop the tach undershoot 750 rmp idle
speed (observed on tach) to 350.  The it will over shoot to 1100 or 1200 rmp
before comign to rest at 750 again.  This only happens with the clutch fully
depressed.  On rare occasions, vehicle wilkl stall.   However, it restarts
immediately and idle as normal.

Ideas, questions, comments, discussion?
-- 
Ack!                             esh101@psuvm.psu.edu             ESH101@PSUVM
hvozda@vivaldi.psu.edu           hvozda@wilbur.psu.edu            DoD #0217
From: kneff@teton.NoSubdomain.NoDomain (Ken Neff)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Do insurance companies hate VWs?
Date: 20 Nov 92 16:52:47 GMT
Organization: TIVOLI Systems

In article <921114.231215.amiller@almaden.ibm.com>, amiller@almaden.ibm.com (Alex Miller) writes:
|> Why is it that VWs are so expensive to insure, relative
|> to similar price, similar performance cars?  Do VW
|> owners have a higher incidence of expensive claims?

This is exactly opposite my own experiences.  My wife pays approximately
$650 (US) per year for full coverage insurance for her 1989 Isuzu I-Mark RS.
I pay $630/year for the same coverage for my 1990 VW Corrado.  We are both
the same age, and neither of us has any speeding tickets or collisions on our
record.  Before I bought my Corrado, I compared rates to other cars in the
class (Nissan 240SX, Toyota MR2, etc.), and I found that the Corrado would be
cheaper to insure.  State Farm considers those other cars sports cars, and thus
adds surcharges.

-- 
1990 Corrado           Civilization in three easy steps:   Ken Neff
1988 Hawk GT            the wheel, internal combustion,    Tivoli Systems, Inc.
(CMRA #647  DOD #0022)        and climate control          kneff@tivoli.com
From: rodb@cs.ubc.ca (Rod Barman)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: 46mm nut---How to remove?
Date: 17 Nov 1992 11:33:13 -0800
Organization: Computer Science, University of B.C., Vancouver, B.C., Canada
NNTP-Posting-Host: swan.cs.ubc.ca

In article <1992Nov17.102016.1160@yvax.byu.edu> colemant@yvax.byu.edu writes:
>Please help me find the tool/ wrench to remove the rear axle nut from
>my 71 bus.  The size is 46mm and the only offers I have are for:
>
>$107 crescent wrence with 2.5" max
>$30  socket and adaptor from sears
>
>I have visions of making a tool to fit stuggly with some arm sticking out
>to hit with a hammer.  Custom making it may cost more than buying it.

A company called "Schey Tools" makes exactly this along with a 1/2" hole
for a breaker bar.  You apply hand pressure with the breaker bar and then hit
the tool with hammer.  They claim that this is more effective than an impact
wrench.  Locally these tools are carried by Bow-Wow, my favourite VW parts place.

--rod.

-- 
--
Rod Barman, IRIS NCE @ Laboratory for Computational Intelligence, 
University of British Columbia
rodb@cs.ubc.ca
From: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Timing belts and 16v engines
Date: 23 Nov 1992 03:47:21 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, calypso@stein.u.washington.edu (Kent Shih) says:

>>Doug Christensen,  SSB Scirocco

>============================================================================
>
>     Hi, I have a question for ya... On the average, how much does it cost
>     to have the timing belt replaced by an independent volkswagon repair
>     shop... and how much does it cost for the timing belt alone?   I have
>     a 16V Scirocco and it has 56,000 miles on it, I am thinking about
>     replacing the belt soon...

good thought!

>     By the way, would you know if I can have the cam shaft replaced without
>     taking more things apart when changing the belt?  I am thinking about

i'm pretty sure that you cannot. i am not sure abt the 16v's, but you do not
have to take off the valve cover to change the Timing belt on the 8v's, and i
do not think you do on the 16's.  Thus, the various crap(hoses, throttle, etc.)
that runs over or is attached to the vavle cover will have to be removed. This
does NOT mean that there would be a better time. unless you are planning on 
taking off the head  anytime shortly after replacing the belt(silly!). since the
belt has to be taken off (i guess) of the gear to replace the shaft(s..are there
not TWIN overhead cams on the 16v's?), this would probably not be a bad time
to go ahead and do it!
>     buying a new cam shaft(those high performance ones) and stick it in the
>     engine to boost up the horsepower.  Does anyone have any suggestions

get some books! and listen to those on here in the know..as i am not one when
it comes to preformance cams, but they are not as simple as sticking one in
to up hp! they are somewhat more complicated.  Many tradeoffs have to be made
in the area of cams.  You have to decide if you REAAAALY want to sink that 
$$ into it all.
>     to which ones are good, and if doing so may be good or bad to the
>     engine?
>
>     Doug, what does 'SSB Scirocco' mean?  :)

beats me! be interested to know!

>
>               -kent
good luck!
DREW
-- 
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
?????????????????????????????????-----whatever!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mcr@cactus.org (Mike)
Subject: Re: Stud Axle Replacement - 1990 Golf
Organization: Capital Area Central Texas UNIX Society, Austin, Tx
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 03:04:23 GMT

In article <fbaws01.1@cs-acad-lan.Lakeheadu.Ca> fbaws01@cs-acad-lan.Lakeheadu.Ca (Faculty Workstation #01) writes:
>My 1990 VW Golf needs to have its STUD AXLES replaced (on a VW recall).  
>Does anyone know what these are, and what the recall entails?
>

First of all, according to Bentley,  aren't they STUB axles? They bolt to 
the axle beam I believe.  The $30.00 investment in the Bentley manual
can be well worth the cost.  Good luck with the repair! 
 

Mike
From: rane@peltosirkku.cs.tut.fi (M{kinen Rauno,,,OHJ,53667)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: 46mm wrench found!  Thank you.
Date: 23 Nov 1992 06:01:17 GMT
Organization: Technical University of Tampere, Dep. of Computer Science ,Finland 
Distribution: world
Reply-To: rane@peltosirkku.cs.tut.fi
NNTP-Posting-Host: peltosirkku.cs.tut.fi
Originator: rane@peltosirkku.cs.tut.fi

From article <1992Nov20.085215.1166@yvax.byu.edu>, by colemant@yvax.byu.edu:
> Thank you very much to all who responded with suggestions.
> 
> The solution was as follows:
> 
> Here at BYU there is a shop for Mechanichal Engineers like me to use.  
> After discovering it a few days ago I found a 2.5" adjustible wrench with 
> a 2.5 foot handle.  They let me borrow it on the condition that I not use 
> a cheater bar.  The bar would have made it go quicker and more ellegantly.
> After jumping on the thing a few times it slowly came loose.

Acceptable condition!  I just broke one wrench like that by using a cheater
bar for the same job, sigh.



-- 
Rekursio: monissa maissa virastolle laadittu pyynto muuttaa virastossa
          tyoskentelevan virkamiehen paatos.

	-- Gummeruksen uusi tietosanakirja --
From: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: GTI vs. GTi
Date: 21 Nov 1992 06:07:55 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, msirota@ee.rochester.edu (Mark Sirota) says:

>I have a simple, innocent question.  Why do so many Americans insist on
>calling it a GTi rather than a GTI?  I know that in Great Britain, it's a
>GTi.  As far as I know, that's true *only* in Great Britain -- or is it also
>true in the rest of Europe?
>
>I've never seen anyone in the US calling the Rabbit a "Golf", or referring to
>the Jetta as a "Vento", nobody used "Passat" when talking about the Quantum.
>Why is there this odd loyalty to the British name of the GTI?

gee..immediate reaction to this...when you are in a conversation, what is
the difference between GTI and GTi? nothing. and when you are typing, you
type "G" and "T" with the same shift key held down, but have to switch
whenever you go to the "I"..makes it slightly easier to type "i". also, some
of us read some European car magazines, in which, i'm sure, they refer to the
GTI as GTi..myself, i was not aware that GTi was only in the UK, others may
be the same, i just assumed the two to be interchangable, since, in a 
 conversation, it makes no difference which you use.  also, GTI=GTi,
but Rabbit<>Golf, and Jetta <> Vento, etc in a conversation..u c? this
would be my guess...
DREW
-- 
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
?????????????????????????????????-----whatever!
From: tomh@wes.on.ca (Tom Haapanen)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: 16V golf gti mk3 gets bashed by CAR
Date: 20 Nov 92 14:09:25 GMT
Organization: Waterloo Engineering Software

eliot@engr.washington.edu (eliot) writes:
> anyway, the new gti 16v has a 2 liter engine pumping out 150bhp and a much
> flatter torque curve than the previous iteration.  i guess that's the reason
> for the delay.  i think that for the US, the 8V GTI III will have a very
> short life and will in the future have the 16V unit in it.

Or maybe VWoA will come to their senses and bring in a full model selection.
In Canada we will have:

	Golf CL		2dr, 4dr	1.8 gas, 1.9 turbodiesel
	Golf GL		2dr, 4dr	2.0 gas, 1.9 turbodiesel
	Golf GTI	2dr		2.0 gas
	Golf VR6	2dr		2.8 gas

I think this is a pretty good selection!  I especiall like the looks of that
very last one...

[ \tom haapanen    "i don't even know what street canada is on" -- al capone ]
[ tomh@wes.on.ca                   "trust the programmer" -- ansi c standard ]
[ waterloo engineering software      "to thine own self be true" -- polonius ]
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mbernar@erenj.com (Marcelino Bernardo)
Subject: Re: Keeping Your Watercooled VW cool.
Followup-To: rec.autos.vw
Organization: Exxon Research & Engineering, Co.
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 23:53:20 GMT

In article <1992Nov17.003738.8775@wuecl.wustl.edu>,
christos@wucs1.wustl.edu (Christos Papadopoulos) wrote:
> 
> 
> 	If the fan runs constantly it cools only the radiator coolant
> during startup, thus not affecting the rate the engine warms up. As
> Drew pointed out, the only side effect is that the coolant in the radiator
> gets colder, but this simply causes the thermostat to open less, thus
> still maintaining the correct engine temp. However, it is possible that
> there might be some coolant leakage from the radiator during warmup
> if the thermostat is old and does not seal very well, in which case running
> the fan constantly will cause slower engine warmup.
> Alex's point is valid in this case.
> 

You're forgetting that the fan blows air right at the engine.  Don't you
think this would cool the engine (specially in the winter) and hence result
in a longer warm-up time.


Marcelino Bernardo
mbernar@erenj.com
#Opinions expressed here are my own#
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: neves@anchor.cs.colorado.edu (NEVES RICHARD K)
Subject: Re: Problem: Idle blip in 1989 Golf
Keywords: Idle clutch stop
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1992 21:08:29 GMT

In article <op_1H=?hxa@atlantis.psu.edu> hvozda@wilbur.psu.edu (Eric Hvozda) writes:
>I'm posting this for my father; AEG doesn't have net access :(
>
>Vehicle:
>1989 Gasoline Golf
>5 speed, No goodies (not even a radio)
>Problem:
>About half of the time when coming to a stop the tach undershoot 750 rmp idle
>speed (observed on tach) to 350.  The it will over shoot to 1100 or 1200 rmp
>before comign to rest at 750 again.  This only happens with the clutch fully
>depressed.  On rare occasions, vehicle wilkl stall.   However, it restarts
>immediately and idle as normal.
>
>Ideas, questions, comments, discussion?

Read my second to last post.  This is exactly what was happening to
our Passat.  They replaced the throttle switch and that fixed it.
Maybe someone who knows something about engines could explain this.  

I do know that the engine idle speed somehow determined by a computer.
The decision is based on inputs from devices like the throttle switch.
Our switch was broken.  They replaced it, now it works.

btw, I'm a PhD computer science student so my views on things tend to
be monocentric (is that a word?) :)

Our idle use to go down to 500 hundred and also died once in a
while... (and pop up to 2000 - i hated this).

Question: When this behavior occurs, does turning the car off and on
temporarily fix it?

Rich