HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: gak@wrs.com (Richard Stueven)
Subject: Botched Brown (gak & gerry's #41)
Reply-To: gak@wrs.com
Organization: Wind River Systems, Inc.
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 17:26:19 GMT

gak & gerry's Batch #41
Botched Brown (based on "Cat's Paw", Cat's Meow 2ed, p 9-2)
Brewed 8/30/92

9.25# Klages
0.25# chocolate malt
0.25# roasted barley
1# 90L crystal
1 oz Willamette (60 min)
1 oz Perle (60 min)
0.5 oz Perle (5 min)
Wyeast British Ale

Usual single-temp infusion mash.

Starting gravity...are you ready for this?...1024.

That's not a typo.

As I was finishing the mash-in, I noticed that there was very little
flour in the grain's original bag, and no husks at all.  As the last
kernels of grain fell into the water, I found out why...the Klages was
whole, that is, not crushed.  I usually buy my grain pre-crushed, and
it didn't even occur to me to inspect the contents of this bag when I
bought it.

Not surprisingly, the sparge didn't stick at all.  I sparged to a total
volume of five gallons instead of the usual six, in an effort to
salvage some of the weight.  It boiled down to about 4.5 gallons.

I expect I'll end up with a very light, very low-alcohol, very
astringent black beer that will probably wind up down my sink instead
of down my neck.

I stand ready for the appropriate experts (you know who you are) to rub
my nose in this mishap.

---
gak			Der Herr Braeumeister hat Scheiss gestern gebraut.
gak@wrs.com
attmail!gakhaus!gak
107/H/3&4
From: flar@iastate.edu (Bradley M Armitage)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: What's happening?
Date: 26 Aug 92 16:53:54 GMT
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames IA

In digest <BwkoR+ZTL@ssc.gov> homebrew@lupulus.ssc.gov writes:

>Hi

>Is anyone else getting multiple copies of the homebrew posting. I am getting
>10 or more copies of each days issue.

>Help

>Regards
>Mark
>- --
>                _________________________________________
>               |  Mark Stobbs    ccsmcs@cd4380.ufh.ac.za |
>               |          Computer Centre                |
>               |  University of Fort Hare, South Africa  |
>               |_________________________________________|

Yes, very strange, I am getting double posts of every article and
multiple sets of the homebrew posting as well, what's the deal?  The end
of the World as we know it?

*****************************************************************************
*       Spiritus Sanctus Anno Mundi:  Can you see me, are you near me?      *
* Can you hear me crying out for life?  Can you tell me, where's the glory? *
*     BLACK         **********************************      SABBATH         *
*******************  flar@iastate.edu (Brad Armitage)  **********************
From: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us (Joseph Nathan Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: When Is It Clean? [Re: returning carboys]
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 92 22:03:14 EDT
Organization: 5 Sigma Software
Reply-To: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us
X-Mailer: uAccess - Macintosh Release: 1.5v5


In article <13612.2aa4c440@ohstpy.mps.ohio-state.edu> (rec.crafts.brewing), cpalmer@ohstpy.mps.ohio-state.edu writes:
) I use phosphoric acid to clean, but -no- method of cleaning is 100%.
) returning them is just one more way to be sure of sanitation.
) Maybe a bit frivolus, but the co-op is only a few blocks away...

Hey, dude, I'm sorry, but if it (1) looks clean to begin with and
(2) has been filled with a dilute bleach solution for a couple of
days, or just overnight ...

... it IS clean.

Now, I still do everything except 1 gallon fermentations in plastic
pails, since I prefer to avoid cleaning hop resins and other tough
scrudge out of carboys.  But given that there is no visible gunk on
the inside of the carboy, which is a state you glass-primary-fermenter 
types will achieve after a little soaking and/or elbow grease, it can 
be sanitized quite effectively.

uunet!joebloe!joseph   (609) 273-8200 day   joseph%joebloe@uunet.uu.net
v   v  sssss | Certified Guru: all-grain brewing,| 2102 Ryan's Run East
 v v  s   s  | C, synthesizer comp & arranging,  | Rt 38 & 41
  v    sss   | photography. Also not a bad cook. | Maple Shade NJ 08052
-----My employer isn't paying for this, and my opinions are my own-----
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: ciaran@county.lmt.mn.org (Ciaran Benson)
Subject: Re: Why Don't Women Brew?
Reply-To: ciaran@county.lmt.mn.org (Ciaran Benson)
Organization: LaserMaster Technologies, Minneapolis, MN
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 92 19:46:29 GMT

  Most of the women I know DO homebrew.  Wouldn't have it
any other way.

  Porters, Stouts, Ales, Lagers ... even Sassafras and
Rootbeer.

  Friend o' mine is working on her first wheat beer, and
making GOOD progress.

  Making what you eat and what you drink is just plain
good for the soul -- male or female.

  Ciaran.

  $uslinit; include oblig.sig <<
  "...And here, Queen Aphrodite, pour heavenly nectar into gold
   cups, and fill them gracefully with sudden joy."  -- Sappho >>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: akerson@deimos.srg.af.mil (Pete Akerson - akerson%srg@uunet.uucp)
Subject: Re: Natural Gas Burners - Pots
Organization: ARINC Research, Corp.
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 92 13:36:06 GMT



I used a 15 gallon crab-cooking pot, (as opposed to the 'crab-pot'
that you catch the little buggers in).  It is porcelain enamel over
steel. And mostly it was very cheap ($ lt 30) and on-hand.
Anyone see a problem with that ?
--
Usually Reply-to: akerson%srg@uunet.uucp
Internet: akerson@srg.af.mil@uunet.uucp
Uunet: uunet!srg!akerson
Milnet: akerson@srg.srg.af.mil     maybe ...
From: dsbb@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (D. SPENCER BEECHER)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: ROACHES !
Date: 3 Sep 92 20:33:57 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

In article <1992Sep01.193459.27755@srg.srg.af.mil>, akerson@deimos.srg.af.mil (P
ete Akerson - akerson%srg@uunet.uucp) writes:

>  Ortho's Flea-Be-Gone will kill anything. Even fish in a tank accross
>the house  :-(  ( Obviously I dont own the Ortho. Corp. )


ORTHO???  NO!  (Please; it kills bugs, how healthy could it be for the rest
of us?

A little boric acid (available at many hardware stores) sprinkled on the floor
around the perimeter of the room will deter the little buggers.  As they walk
across it, dragging their little bodies behind, it gets into their breathing
apparatus and they suffocate.  This insecticidic method is more mechanical
than chemical, and there's less risk of contaminating nearby foodstuffs!

Other methods of getting rid of the pests:

Flood the area with a high concentration of nitrogen, carbon dioxide, or
other relatively inert asphyxiative gas - it'll take their breath away.
Problems with this method are that it works poorly on poorly sealed homes,
and there is also the danger of other creatures (such as yourself or pets)
being asphyxiated.  Creatures with whom you are friendly should not be
left in the house to die with the roaches.  This method does not work well
on eggs.

Commercially available roach baits work with some (limited) effectiveness.
The roaches eventually build up a tolerance to these chemicals.

A shoe works wonderfully, and successive generations will not build up an
immunity to it.

Roaches are not very tolerant of bright light.  Areas you wish to protect
while dealing with the problem may be secured to a small degree by flooding
them with light from several good lamps.

A more controllable Ortho product is Sevin dust.  Remember, insects are, in
general, more resilient than mammals when it comes to chemical poisoning.
Carbamates and pyrethrins (ingredients in most insecticides) are not very
healthy for the environment in general, nor for you in particular, and
they should be avoided whenever plausible.
-- 
                   _ _     _ _     _ _
  -Spence         [O.O]   )x.x(   )O.O(
                    O       O      -*-
From: pcj1@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu (Pierre Jelenc)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: ROACHES!
Date: 27 Aug 92 22:53:38 GMT
Reply-To: pcj1@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu (Pierre Jelenc)
Organization: Columbia University

In article <1992Aug27.170617.4336@midway.uchicago.edu> hasn@midway.uchicago.edu (Sheheryar Hasnain) writes:
>Hopefully in the next month or so I'll get my act together a brew my first 
>batch.  One big question came to mind when I saw some rather nasty looking 
>creatures in my kitchen last night.  Does beer in a carboy attract these 
>critters?  Also should one fumigate when beer is brewing in the apartment?
>Just to add a personal note:  I HATE ROACHES!  I put up those combat poison
>stick ups but roaches are tough!  I HATE ROACHES!
>Any other solutions for getting rid of roaches would help as well.
>Thanks.


Combat has worked pretty well on those tough New York roaches.

So far.

Pierre

Pierre Jelenc                        pcj1@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu 
                                    Columbia University, New York
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: cav@bnr.ca (Rick Cavasin)
Subject: Re: "Relaxed" a little too much...
Reply-To: cav@bnr.ca (Rick Cavasin)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 92 13:09:44 GMT

In article <01050166.cghr7t@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us>, joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us (Joseph Nathan Hall) writes:
|> 
|> In article <1992Aug29.201034.12970@ultb.isc.rit.edu> (rec.crafts.brewing), wlt4326@ritvax.isc.rit.edu (William L.M. Trainor) writes:
|> ) About 9 months ago, I brewed up a batch of larger, let it ferment, and then
|> ) proceed to "larger" the racked beer down in the basement for the winter, with
|> ) every intention to bottle in the spring...  Well...
|> ) 
|> ) It's still down there...
|> 
|> Whatever else has happened to it, it's almost certainly autolyzed
|> by now.  For normal strength beer stored at 55-65F on a medium thickness
|> layer of yeast in a secondary, autolysis seems to kick in a week or
|> two or four after the last of the secondary fermentation activity
|> dies down (4-8 weeks total).  Colder storage and/or stronger brews
|> mean longer autolysis times, of course.  And if you re-rack at the 1 month
|> point, and keep the beer cool to cold, it should keep for several moons in
|> the "tertiary."
|> 
|> If you haven't experienced autolyzed brew, just imagine a taste/odor
|> somewhere between Vegamite, dirty sock and hot tire in yer brew. 
|> A mild case tastes like you used some kind of really weird caramel
|> malt in the brew.  I doubt that most folks know what a stronger case
|> tastes like, at least not from personal experience.  (I don't.)

I have to say that I don't either.  I can't help wondering if this is not
a 'myth'.  The closest I ever came was sharing a bottle of year old lager
with a friend who claimed he could detect a 'rubbery' flavour.  It tasted
fine to me.  Of course, this is the same guy who once threw an impromptu
'secondary party' with five gallons of ale that had been sitting in the 
carboy for NINE months and claimed that though flat, it was one of the 
best ales he had ever brewed.
I suggest that William decant a sample from his carboy and TASTE it.  If it
tastes OK, then bottle it (he may need to add yeast along with his priming
sugar).

Cheers,
Rick C.

|> 
|> uunet!joebloe!joseph   (609) 273-8200 day   joseph%joebloe@uunet.uu.net
|> v   v  sssss | Certified Guru: all-grain brewing,| 2102 Ryan's Run East
|>  v v  s   s  | C, synthesizer comp & arranging,  | Rt 38 & 41
|>   v    sss   | photography. Also not a bad cook. | Maple Shade NJ 08052
|> -----My employer isn't paying for this, and my opinions are my own-----
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: dmiller@rodan.acs.syr.edu (Daniel Miller)
Subject: Alewives: the person and the fish
Organization: Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 92 09:35:27 EDT

A person referred to as an alewife is the woman who used to brew all
the beer in the old days.  An alewife (the fish) is the fish that comes
into the rivers to spawn at a particular time of the year.  The alewife
(the person) would catch lots of these fish to add to a special batch
of beer brewed once a year.  When the fish started to run upstream,
the local people would rejoice by singing 'The Alewives' fish are here!'
As with many other words, the name of the fish was truncated to simply
'Alewife'.  Really.  I know this stuff. I'm a fisheries biologist :-).
--
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Daniel J. Miller  SUNY College of Environmetal Science and Forestry
dmiller@rodan.acs.syr.edu
"A peaceful place, or so it looks from space
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: malodah@pbhyf.PacBell.COM (Martin A. Lodahl)
Subject: Re: Raspberry beer
Reply-To: malodah@PacBell.COM (Martin A. Lodahl)
Organization: Pacific * Bell, San Ramon, CA
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1992 22:12:44 GMT

In article <BtG1qF.MDv@xrtll.uucp> stephane@xrtll.uucp (Stephane Deschenes) writes:
>One of the reasons I just purchased beer making equipment was because
>I tried a Belgian beer called Frambosen (spelling?)

Usually spelled "Frambozen" if Flemish, and "framboise" if French.

>At first the flavour was quite unusual.  I wasn't sure whether I liked
>it or not.  As I took more and more sips, I began to really appreciate
>its unique taste.  My problem was that this beer is difficult to get and
>when found it is prohibitively expensive ($5 per bottle).  As a result
>I decided that brewing it myself might be in order.  I had watched friends
>brew and their results were very encouraging.
>
>My problem:  I have asked several people and read many books but I can't
>find a recipe for raspberry beer.  
>
>Does anyone have any suggestions??  Any recipes???
>Please keep in mind that I am a neophite when it comes to brewing
>so I may not understand difficult processes.

Well, unfortunately, this is one of the most difficult of all possible 
beers to brew, as it's not simply an ale with raspberries added ...

>I have also heard that there is a Belgian cherry beer called a
>Creek i believe.  Sounds interesting.  Any comments or recipes?

"Kriek" is Flemish for cherries.  Generally, but not always, these 
beers are from a family of spontaneously-fermented wheat beers
called lambics.  Brewing them at home is complex and difficult,
not to mention time-consuming.  The decidedly non-traditional
flavors of some popular brands (notably Lindeman's) are more
difficult yet to reproduce.

To simply add raspberries to a light ale or light wheat beer can
produce a very interesting beer, though not at all the same thing
as a framboise.  Some observations & prejudices:  use a light
base.  Malt really only goes well with a few fruit flavors, like
apricots.  I would make a light wheat beer, and hop it very lightly.
Use frozen fruit or freeze the fruit first.  This will break up the
cells to allow the yeast in more readily.  Add the fruit to the wort 
either after it is chilled (if you use a counterflow chiller) or
while it is chilling (if you use any other method), but don't let it
get too hot, for fear of setting the pectins.  Pitch lots of yeast,
as you're running a higher-than-normal risk of infection.  If you
use a blowoff tube, use a GREAT BIG one, lest the fruit pulp plug
it up, burst your carboy, and distribute beer and glass shards all 
over the room.  With the exception of this last, feel free to ignore
any of my suggestions.  Good luck!

	- Martin
-- 
= Martin A. Lodahl    [DoD, AHA, NRA]  Systems Analyst, Pacific*Bell =
= malodah@PacBell.COM		Sacramento, CA, USA     916.972.4821 =
= If it's good for ancient Druids, runnin' nekkid through the wuids, =
= Drinkin' strange fermented fluids, it's good enough for me!!  8-)} =
From: dam@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk (David Morning)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Bud's claims to be "naturally carbonated"
Date: 25 Aug 92 16:54:08 GMT
Organization: Glasgow University Computing Science Dept.

homebrew@lupulus.ssc.gov writes:

>I saw an ad on TV the other day for Budweiser.  In
>the ad it claimed that bud was "naturally carbonated".

>This does not make any sense to me.  If it was primed
>there would be sediment and the bottles (or cans)
>would require aging.

>Does anyone out there know anything about this claim?
 
Sure, it's carbonated with a natural gas - CO2 as opposed to a man-made
gas like..er...like...er... CS tear gas.

But seriously, it's possible to filter out most of the sediment and still get
fizz in the bottle. German beers do this but don't ask me how, I just drink
the stuff, maybe it's related to top fermenting vs bottom fermenting (well
that's what the guy in the Heineken factory in Amsterdam told me!!)


Dave

-- 
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: aki <aki@atlas.worldbank.org>
Subject: god please don't flame me...
X-Xxmessage-Id: <A6C948ADC0102631@akidamme-233324.worldbank.org>
X-Xxdate: Tue, 1 Sep 92 21:19:57 GMT
Organization: World Bank
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d8
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 20:26:06 GMT


I REALLY feel stupid for asking this question but..
just what _exactly_ is a carboy?  I noticed in
a previous post that someone mentioned they
bought a whole bunch of stuff from a local
homebrew shop for $44 including a carboy and
I've seen lots of discussions mentioning carboys.
Is this something I need?  Does it replace
bottles? Gawd I feel stupid...please don't
laugh at me..I'm new at all this...:-( ...

-aki
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: aki <aki@atlas.worldbank.org>
Subject: Re: shipping beer
X-Xxmessage-Id: <A6C7E17AC1072631@akidamme-233324.worldbank.org>
X-Xxdate: Mon, 31 Aug 92 19:47:22 GMT
Organization: World Bank
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d8
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 18:53:34 GMT

In article <1992Aug31.160515.3041@epas.toronto.edu> A. Burgess,
burgess@epas.utoronto.ca writes:
>Okay, no one at the Post Office or anywhere else in the federal
>government seems able to answer this question with any certainty, and
>maybe it's a FAQ, but can someone tell me whether and how it is
>possible (i.e. legal or at least quasi-legal) to send a gift of

I don't know about homebrew, but I am a member of "Beers
Across America", a monthly microbrew club that sends a 12
pack of beer from two microbrewies each month.  They send
it via UPS with no problem.  They use a heavy carboard box
marked "Fragile-contains breakable glass" on the outside.
Each bottle is sectioned off by a tic tac doe type cardboard
design and I've haven't had any bottles yet arrive broken.
I don't know what the laws are concerning interstate shipment
of beer but if they can do it, it must be legal.  Check with
your local postoffice and see what laws there are concerning
interstate shipment of small quantities of brew.  If it's
less than say, several gallons, I doubt you'll have a problem.

good luck!
-aki
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: steeve@geosci.lan.mcgill.ca (Steeve McCauley)
Subject: Re: sterilization with a microwave?????
Organization: Earth and Planetary Sciences 
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 16:29:35 GMT

>On water . . . What is the concensus on methods for removing chlorine?
>I also have a salt-water tank, and every time I use Stress Coat (de-
>chlorinizer with aloa) I ponder adding a bit to my brew water.  I live
>in a rather large city with heavily chlorinated water, and sometimes
>have batches that struggle to reach complete fermintation.
>
>Any Thoughts on either subject?
>
   The boiling point of Chlorine is -34.6C so I just leave my drinking water 
sitting in the fridge over night - with the cap off of the bottle.  I'm not 
sure where the eutectic lies for the H2O-Cl system but I believe that most 
of the Cl does in fact boil off at STP (standard temperature and pressure) -
any chemists out there?  I don't use tap water for brewing (the only time I 
did the brew tasted like shit) but I didn't leave the water out to 
dechlorinate so maybe this would work.  This is the easiest and least 
chemical method to dechlorinate.  You might not want or be able to leave the 
stuff in your fridge, but I think it would be ok to leave it sitting in a 
carboy, or whatever (a small opening would probably be preferable), and 
possibly cover it with some clean cloth or something to keep the dust and 
other nasty air-borne particulates out.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Life is something to do when you can't get to sleep. - Fran Lebowitz

steeve@geosci.lan.mcgill.ca     Snail Mail: Earth and Planetary Sciences
steeve@pooh.geophys.mcgill.ca               3450 University
root@pooh.geophys.mcgill.ca                 Montral, QC (H3A 2A7)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: julie@eddie.jpl.nasa.gov (Julie Kangas)
Subject: Re: Why Don't Women Brew?
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory, Pasadena, CA
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 15:13:45 GMT

In article <brewer.7029@meltdown.chi.il.us> brewer@meltdown.chi.il.us (Mike Wilson) writes:
>I don't think that promotion based on sex is all that great a thing in any
>direction.  Promoting brewing to women simply because they are women doesn't
>seem right, to me.  Promote it for everyone.

Yes it should be promoted for everyone.  However, it will be harder to
promote it to women because of the advertising.  It's unfortunate but
advertising shapes a culture.  Not everyone buys into the image
but enough do.  Stereotypes can be broken but it takes an effort.
You can't just sit back and wait.

The effort can be just little things though.  Like the shop owner
encouraging a woman to brew instead of just saying -- 'oh sure, the stuffs
over there.'  (And here I assume the owner would take an interest
in a man wanting to learn).*

I guess it's the "little things" that help anyone get into a hobby 
but quite often they are forgotten when it comes to women.  (And
to be fair, I'm sure it happens when a man is interested in a
female dominated area too.  This is wrong as well.)

>
>I think just the fact that we discuss such a thing is strange.  Hey, if women
>don't want to drink/brew/have anything to do with beer, fine, that's their
>problem.  If they do, that's fine, too.
>
Again, it's not really a problem with women trying beer (good beers that
is) and not liking them.  It's that many women don't try them because of
the advertising. 


*Note:  This didn't happen to me in regards to the beer.  I went from
a brewer wanna-be to a newbie yesterday when I got a beer kit.  The shop
was very helpful and in no way did I feel put down or anything.


Julie
#include "std_disclaimer.h"
#include "witty_sig.h"
From: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us (Joseph Nathan Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Water - another question
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 92 22:14:18 EDT
Organization: 5 Sigma Software
Reply-To: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us
X-Mailer: uAccess - Macintosh Release: 1.5v5


In article <1992Aug31.164131.3066@island.COM> (rec.crafts.brewing), guido@island.COM (Guido Marx) writes:
) ... I have been toying with the
) idea of bringing my carboy and filling it up with water to brew
) a batch the next time I visit.  I am currently making extract
) brews.  Does anyone think this will be worth the hassle ?

It might be.  But you need to use a carefully sterilized carboy and
use the water within, say, 2 days.  Maybe even 1 day.  Unpasteurized,
unchlorinated drinking water ordinarly goes bad very quickly at room
temperature.  The wise alternative is to add sodium metabisulfite tablets 
to the water in the regular dosage one you have it in the carboy.  Then 
it should keep for quite a while so long as you keep the carboy tightly 
covered.  (Hmm.  What does the pH of the water have to be before sodium 
met releases H2S?)

You can always "can" your water if your relatives have a pressure
canner.  Or a water bath would likely be OK.  Seems like a lot of work, 
though!

Find out what the hardness of the water is.  Test kits are available
from aquarium supply shops.  Permanent and carbonate hardness are
probably the most important measures of the quality of brewing "liquor."

uunet!joebloe!joseph   (609) 273-8200 day   joseph%joebloe@uunet.uu.net
v   v  sssss | Certified Guru: all-grain brewing,| 2102 Ryan's Run East
 v v  s   s  | C, synthesizer comp & arranging,  | Rt 38 & 41
  v    sss   | photography. Also not a bad cook. | Maple Shade NJ 08052
-----My employer isn't paying for this, and my opinions are my own-----
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing