HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: frank@truevision.com (Frank Loffel)
Subject: Chasseur d'Images address?
Organization: Truevision Inc., Indianapolis, IN
Date: Sun, 04 Oct 1992 06:07:22 GMT

Hello

Could some kind soul please repost or email the address of
"Chasseur d'Images"?. FAX number?

Do they accept orders by FAX? Do they accept payment with
a US credit card? Are their brand specific test folders 
still $15?

Chasseur d'Images is a French photo magazine that appears
to publish critical equipment reviews.

Now, where's that dusty French dictionary...
-- 
-- Frank Loffel, Truevision, Inc., uunet!epicb!frank frank@truevision.com :-) --
From: fontana@melon.cis.ohio-state.edu (Mark Fontana)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Processing 8mm film in the bathtub
Date: 30 Sep 92 21:15:18 GMT
Article-I.D.: cis.1992Sep30.211518.25381
Followup-To: rec.photo
Organization: The Ohio State University Dept. of Computer and Info. Science



Just out of curiosity, has anyone tried processing 8mm movie film
(Ektachrome) without a tank?

How about filling a bathtab shallow with water at the required temperature
and placing three light plastic buckets (plastic ice cream tubs, etc)
with each of the three baths (1st dev, color dev, blix) in the water?
Then basically processing the film in total darkness by dunking the whole
50 ft (twisted and curled) into each of the baths and agitating gently using
tongs?  Or winding VERY loosely on a large 8mm reel, and shuffling the
reel back and forth?

Just curious if anyone's tried this or has comments.  With professional
8mm processing costing only about $2.40, it's really not worth it...
but maybe for fun...



Mark Fontana


PS- Someone offered to sell me a Morse tank processor and I lost the address.
    If you're out there, please get in touch.
From: madson@unix.SRI.COM (Carl Madson)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: F4s /8008s etc (Nikon)
Date: 6 Oct 92 16:24:31 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: SRI International, Menlo Park, California

In article <1992Oct5.195230.7354@cerritos.edu> jacobs@cerritos.edu writes:
>In article <lakhindr.718320490@bowmore.NSD.3Com.COM>, lakhindr@ESD.3Com.COM (Lakhinder Walia) writes:
>> hi folks: 
>> This is regarding the eye-piece shutter provided for F4, and a small 
>> plastic masking cup for 8008s.
>> I dont understand why should they be there at all, because my premise is:
>> the metering has to be some where in the camera body - but not in the prism
>> housing : for how would otherwise the matrix balance and flash fill exposure
>> work..? the reason being that the measurements have to be done during  the 
>> actual exposure time, i.e when the prism housing is shut-off by the mirror.
>> And since the prism housing module is completely cut-off, why bother about
>> putting a shutter/blind on the eye-piece contained therein..?
>> thanks.
>> -lakhinder walia
>
>The eye-piece shutter is meant to block out extraneous light during time
>exposures, such as astral photography, etc. It doesn't have anything to do with
>metering.
>
>Karl

Actually, primary (matrix & center-weighted) metering in the 8008 _is_ done
from the pentaprism metering cells, prior to the mirror flipping up. Fill-flash
metering is then performed by a simpler single cell placed below the mirror
'box', and facing the film (The 'OTF' or Off-The-Film flash sensor). The 
primary metering sets up thresholds for the OTF sensor, which can then do a 
simple check against the thresholds during real-time metering and shut off the
flash accordingly.

Since primary metering is done from the pentaprism, and since extraneous light
can enter the pentaprism from the eyepiece when you don't have your eye there,
Nikon provides an eyepiece cover to keep such extraneous light from biasing
your metered value. I know for a fact its usefulness, having NOT used it when
shooting with the 8008 up on a monopod above a crowd (and getting some rather
dark pictures). The F3 and F4 versions are a bit more handy, being part of the
camera itself, but in either case the little bugger is useful for shots other
than astrophotographic or time-lapse.


		--Carl Madson, SRI International, Menlo Park, CA
From: sog@craycos.com (Steve Gombosi)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: How do you pronounce Leica? [Actually, Nikon]
Date: 2 Oct 92 17:36:00 GMT
Organization: Cray Computer Corporation

In article <SCHOOLER.92Oct1174052@turing.apollo.hp.com> schooler@apollo.hp.com (Richard Schooler) writes:
>
>  This reminds me of my pet peeve: how does one pronounce 'Nikon'?  My
>formative camera years were spent in Tokyo, and there I learned to say
>Nee-kon, which is consistent with everything I know about the Japanese
>language, not to mention that Nikon is a contraction of Nippon Kogaku.
>Many westerners seem to think it is Nie-kon, however, which the
>Japanese would tend to romanize as Naikon, I believe.

Yup...

>
>  And yet another pet peeve, the spelling of 'Canon'.  Even in
>Shutterbug Ads one often sees 'Cannon'!  Don't people even look at the
>equipment they're selling?

Of course, the company was actually named after Kannon, the Bodhisattva
of Compassion (honest!), so perhaps they're just honoring the intentions
of its founder ;-).

Steve
Xref: sparky rec.photo:17396 ba.market.misc:7607 misc.forsale:27898
From: fiddler@concertina.Eng.Sun.COM (steve hix)
Newsgroups: rec.photo,ba.market.misc,misc.forsale
Subject: 35mm is too small
Summary: Canon FD 35mm equipment for sale
Date: 5 Oct 92 20:54:36 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Mt. View, Ca.
NNTP-Posting-Host: concertina

After waffling on the issue off and on for 25 years, I've decided
to abandon 35mm photography for medium and large-format.  Since I
have shot very little in 35mm for the last few years that wouldn't
have worked at least as well, and usually better, in larger formats,
I figure it's time to leave.

Everything listed here is in excellent+ to mint- condition, unless
otherwise noted, and in original box.  Haggling expected.


Equipment		Serial #  condition	asking price
---------		--------  ---------	------------

   Bodies

F-1n (AE)		261913	  m-		545
F-1n (AE)*		260361	  e+		510
T90			1168993   e+		445


  Lenses (all Canon FD)

24/2.8 lens & hood	189264	  m-		165
50/3.5 macro&ext. tube  148820	  m-		195
100/4 macro& ext. tube	51488	  e+		305
      and hood
200/4 macro		17287	  e+		415
300/4, tripod ring	33635     m-		290


	Accessories

TL300 flash (for T90)	-----	  m-		185
AE Powerwinder FN*	181686	  m-		115
Focusing screen FN (type SE) 2	  mint		 45
Extender FD 2x-A*	63559	  mint		130
Anglefinder B*		-----	  mint		 30
Cable release, electrical for T90 e		 40

* No box

Anyone wanting to get all or most of the above has a better
chance at substantial discounting, btw.

	Steve Hix
	fiddler@concertina.Eng.Sun.com
	(415) 336-7547 work
	(408) 779-8795 home, evenings Sun - Thurs.

--
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Of making many books there is no end...  |  What's wrong with chasing 
                       -- Eccl. 12:12    |  nebulae till 3 am?  |-(
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: reed@nastar.uucp (Reed Wilson)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Nikon parts / Nikon phone numbers
Date: 1 Oct 92 12:03:43 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Digital Transmission Systems, Inc.

In response to several recent postings regarding availability of parts for
Nikon equipment, the Nikon parts depot in Torrance, CA sells parts to the
general public, and will accept phoned-in credit card orders. 

The numbers I have for Nikon are:

  Parts depot                    213-516-7124
  New product information        800-645-6635
  Customer support/information   800-645-6687

Regards,

Reed

-- 

reed%nastar.uucp@mathcs.emory.edu
Reed C. Wilson
Digital Transmission Systems
From: jacobson@cello.hpl.hp.com (David Jacobson)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: How to calculate flash exp with extension tubes
Date: 4 Oct 92 02:07:45 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories

In article <zlsiida.169@fs1.mcc.ac.uk> zlsiida@fs1.mcc.ac.uk (dave budd) writes:
>In article <1992Sep30.033612.25878@cello.hpl.hp.com> jacobson@cello.hpl.hp.com (David Jacobson) writes:
>
>>Here are a few formulas that will solve your problem.  
>
>>M = F/(S-F)
>
>>S is lens (actually front nodal point) to subject distance
>>M is magnification
>>F is focal length
>
>>effective_f_stop = geometric_f_stop * (1+M)^2
>
>>When computing flash exposures from flash-to-subject distance and
>>guide number, you want to use the effective f-stop.
>> [[ stuff about finding the front nodal point deleted ]]
>>  -- David Jacobson
>
>Does this require adjustment if the flash is a different distance from the 
>subject than the camera is?

The effective f-stop should be set to the guide number divided by the
flash to subject distance.  (Assuming it is more than two feet or so---
At very close ranges the flash ceases to be effectively a point source
so the inverse square law, which is the basis for all this, does not apply.)

  -- David Jacobson
From: ccy@po.CWRU.Edu (Cheung C. Yue)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Slide Projectors
Date: 27 Sep 92 12:39:55 GMT
Reply-To: ccy@po.CWRU.Edu (Cheung C. Yue)
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, ray@tsw.UUCP (Ray Izumi) says:

>
>I'm thinking about getting a slide projector, and have pretty much settled
>on a Kodak Ektagraphic. These models are supposed to be "industrial quality"
>as opposed to the Carousels, though prices are actually comparable. I've
>also considered the Leica P150, which is a simple machine but of course has
>the Leica name on it. One disadvantage of the Leica is that it uses the
>straight magazine system which holds only 50 slides, while the Kodaks hold
>80 slides.
>

I have never liked the Carousels.  Have you ever had a slide show using
that system which did not jam?  Although many people know how to rescue
such a jam, still accidents occur such as forgeting to put the retainer
on before flipping the carousel over, etc.

I have had a Rollei projector for >15 years.  It is like the Leica and
uses a straight magazine tray.  The beauty of the projector is that the
cover comes right off with just one screw, and no jam is too difficult
to deal with.  Although a 50 slide tray is a bit small, actually I 
believe the # of slides/sq. in. footprint of the tray is probably 
better with the straight tray than with the carousel.  I believe you
can buy a box with 2 straight trays, so carrying 100 slides at a time
is no big deal.  

C Cho Yue
ccy@po.cwru.edu

--
From: dbernard@thewho.Central.Sun.COM (Dave Bernard)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Leica, why so high?
Date: 28 Sep 92 12:02:49 GMT
Reply-To: dbernard@thewho.Central.Sun.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems


>A friend lately sold a Leica M-3 DS and a three lenses to a Japanese gentleman
>who said, regarding the legendary Leica quietness...when the shutter is
>released it makes the sound of the gentlest raindrop falling on a blade
>of grass".

>You have to pay for that kind of poetry~                             09028672419; 
!
Just a little hyperbole, too... the Leica M's aren't THAT quiet.
If really quiet in a 35mm is what's wanted, try one of those non-
interchangeable lens rangefinders of the 60s & 70s, with the lens-
shutters and no motor advance.

	Dave
From: barnick@mesa.Kodak.COM (William M Barnick x73638)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Old Images
Date: 28 Sep 92 15:19:41 GMT
Organization: Eastman Kodak Co., Rochester, NY

I just attended a used camera sale at a local church basement.  It seemed
to be an annual event with many "professional" camera sales people among
many other camera hobbiest.

Getting to the point ... I came across some very old "transparency" images.
The images were of industrial United States and China.  I would guess that
they were somewhere in the time frame of the 1930's,  but I may be off
by a decade.  In any event,  the images were in the form of two glass
plates sandwiched together.  The two pieces of glass were held together
by a thin strip of tape which went all the way around the outter edge.
The image plate size was about 2.75 x 3.5 inches.  Most of this images
appeared to be originals and professionally done.  The images of China
were in color.  The industrial United States stuff was mostly B&W.

I bought several of the image glass plates just because they looked so
interesting.  Does anyone know anything about these types of images ???
Does anyone collect these images ???  What was this type of image used
for ???

Thanks .... email me at barnick@kodak.com
See Ya ...
WMB


--
***  William M Barnick ** Eastman Kodak ** barnick@Kodak.COM ******************
***  Electronic Imaging Platform Center * Color Scanning Systems Lab          *
***  B/65-2 D/733 mc01804   Rochester NY   14650-1804                         *
**************************** (716) 477-3638 ***********************************
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: Norman_Furlong@dolphin.com (Norman Furlong)
Subject: Telephoto zooms revisited
Keywords: telephoto, lens
Organization: Dolphin Software
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 23:13:52 GMT

I have received excellent advice from my posting Re: Telephoto zoom lens  
recommendations wanted and have been askked to specify further.  I will  
purchase a telephoto zoom lens (instead of several prime lenses, for now)  
and am evaluating specifically the tradeoffs between the manufacturer's  
lens, and others:

	Sigma 75-300 f/4.5-5.6 APO, $260  (or "DL" at $170)
	Tokina 75-300 f/4.5-5.6, $200
	Minolta 70-210i f/3.5-4.5, $205  (I have a Minolta i camera)
	Tokina 80-200 f/2.8 APO, $510  ($440 at Abe's of Maine)

I use a Minolta 8000i to shoot transparencies, primarily of people and  
landscapes outdoors in available light, using a Manfrotto tripod much of  
the time.  I like sharp pictures an fine detail and use Kodochrome 25 and  
Velvia most of the time, manually focusing my AF lens except in some  
action situations.  Yes, I am interested in selling my pictures as stock  
and will sometimes want to enlarge my pictures to > 8 X 10.  (Please no  
flames OTOO "then switch to large format, fool!".  Thanks, maybe when I  
get this format under control :-)

As I see it, the tradeoffs are the following.  Given the price ceiling, in  
what order should these considerations be for a serious amateur cum  
semi-pro, and what am I overlooking?:

	1) Price -- I'll spend $500 on a lens that will last twice as  
long, hold its resale value OR be noticably "better" (sharper, more  
contrast, less vignetting, less aberation, etc.) than a $250 lens, but  
cannot afford the $900 Minolta APO in *any* case. :-(
	2) Quality -- how much credence should I put in Sigma or Tokina's  
APO lenses?  Does it fall somewhere between Minolta's regular and APO  
lenses in quality?
	3) Speed -- In shooting outdoors, will that extra stop of light  
make a big difference, given the details above? 
	4) Maximum focal length -- in what situations will I be missing  
the 300mm length at 5.6 that I can't make up for with a 1.4x teleconverter  
on my 70-210i zoom (300/f6.3) or 80-200 APO (280/f4).  And would the  
degradation of the teleconv. pretty much cancel the advantages of the  
80-200/2.8 APO, leaving the equivalent of a (hypothetical) Sigma 280/f4 in  
quality, or am just *way* off base here?
	5) Service -- Am I going to get better service, having bought a  
Minolta lens, verses another if I buy at a retail store?  If I buy mail  
order?
	6) Resale value -- How well will the Sigma/Tokina lenses hold  
their value compared to the Minolta?
	7) Durability -- I do shoot mostly outdoors.
	8) Weight -- I fly frequently and occasionally go backpacking, so  
lugging around a heavy lens would be burdensome.

BTW, this should all go into a FAQ, if one doesn't exist.  Please direct  
me to one if it does.  Thanks again for all the help!

Norman Furlong
Dolphin Sotware, Inc.
NeXTMail appreciated!
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: fag2@cunixb.cc.columbia.edu (Farul A Ghazali)
Subject: Opinions on the Canon EF 28mm.
Reply-To: fag2@cunixb.cc.columbia.edu (Farul A Ghazali)
Organization: Columbia University
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 20:53:04 GMT


Does anybody have any good/bad comments about the Canon EF 28mm lens?
How does it compare to a zoom, say the EF 28-70mm II or the EF 28-80mm
USM (the 28mm end, of course)? Thanks.

   ---> farul ghazali.
        columbia university, new york.
From: patrice@cs.concordia.ca (SCATTOLIN patrice)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Wedding, a list of standard shots
Date: 27 Sep 92 15:46:46 GMT
Organization: Computer Science, Concordia University, Montreal, Quebec



Does anyone have a list of shots that one MUST do as a wedding photographer.
I was asked to do the wedding of a friend and it's my first. Any help
is appreciated.  Is this a FAQ? Should we build one?. 



Thanks. 


-- 
Patrice Scattolin
					patrice@cs.concordia.ca
Concordia University			Montreal, Canada
"I am so far north that Santa lives two blocks from me"
From: jimc@tau-ceti.isc-br.com (Jim Cathey)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Slide Duplicator and AF-SLRs/Minolta 7xi
Date: 6 Oct 92 00:47:13 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: ISC - Bunker Ramo, Spokane, WA

In article <1992Oct5.165624.27197@cbnewsm.cb.att.com> ka1gt@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (robert.m.atkins) writes:
>... The EOS line will operate without an
>AF lens, but only if the adapter to the camera body does not trip a small
>microswitch on the lens mount.

There is no microswitch.  The body senses (electrically) the presence
of the lens.  They work on T-mount just fine (metered) using Av 1.0,
which is as wide-open a lens as the body can tolerate.  Or, use manual.

-- 
+----------------+
! II      CCCCCC !  Jim Cathey
! II  SSSSCC     !  ISC-Bunker Ramo
! II      CC     !  TAF-C8;  Spokane, WA  99220
! IISSSS  CC     !  UUCP: uunet!isc-br!jimc (jimc@isc-br.isc-br.com)
! II      CCCCCC !  (509) 927-5757
+----------------+
			"PC's --- the junk bonds of the computer industry"
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: ka1gt@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (robert.m.atkins)
Subject: Re: Zoom Lenses and Telescopes
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 17:06:08 GMT

In article <1992Sep30.152240.4254@midway.uchicago.edu>, hasn@midway.uchicago.edu (Sheheryar Hasnain) writes:
> I was recently looking at the latest Sears Catalogue (Wishbook) and saw a bunch of 
> Sears Brand zoom lenses
> they are selling at reasonable costs (from $75 to $175).  These prices seemed a lot lower than
> namebrand ones.  Is it a good idea to buy lenses from Sears?
> 
> Also, and I'm not sure where I saw this one but there was in some catalogue, an ad for telescopes
> that basically fit onto a camera as lenses.  Does that mean one could take pictures of the moon and 
> Saturn with it?  That would be great if true.

No, it's not a good idea to buy Sears brand lenses, unless you are looking for
something fairly cheap and you don't expect high quality. Even then I would
recommend the Sigma, Tokina etc. lenses over the Sears lenses - the prices
would probably be quite simailar and the quality should be better.

While you could take pictures of anything (Moon, Saturn etc) with the
"telescope" lens, the results would probably turn out to be a waste of film.
You might get acceptable moon shots, but Saturn is REAL small. If you want
expert advice, post your question to sci.astro where the real
astrophotographers hang out. I've done just enough to know how hard it is to
get decent atrophotographs, even using equipment designed for that purpose.
(In addition, most of the cheap "telescope" lenses are of low quality and
make very poor (and very slow) telephoto lenses).

===============================================================
Bob Atkins  AT&T Bell Labs  email (direct)  att!clockwise!rma
===============================================================
From: shun@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (shun.cheung)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Next Nikon camera: An AF interchangeable lens rangefinder?
Date: 28 Sep 92 15:11:14 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T

In article <1992Sep28.141652.29499@cbnewsj.cb.att.com> duane@cbnewsj.cb.att.com (duane.galensky) writes:

>i agree 100%...i can't understand what possible purpose having
>a non-through-the-lens viewfinder would have unless one gains
>something in terms of weight, bulk, quiet-ness, or perhaps
>higher quality optics.  AF rangefinder sounds contradictory to me.

Exactly. Unless someone can provide the motivation for Nikon
to introduce such a camera, I treat it as yet another one
like "I have insider info, Nikon is changing its lens mount."

>oh well...it wouldn't suprise me...after all, they just announced
>the N90 for reasons i can't understand...

However, I can understand the motivation for N90. It is a step
(or several steps) further for the N8008s to compete with
Canon bodies that are loaded with features. Whether we "need"
those features is of course up to our individual choice.
-- 
-- Shun Cheung,    electronic: shun.cheung@att.com    voice: (908) 615-5135
     HR 1A-304, AT&T Bell Labs, 480 Red Hill Road, Middletown, NJ, 07748 USA
From: sog@craycos.com (Steve Gombosi)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: night exposures for traffic
Date: 5 Oct 92 23:27:23 GMT
Organization: Cray Computer Corporation

In article <1992Oct6.023748.1@cc.curtin.edu.au> zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au (Paul Repacholi) writes:
>In article <5360811@hplsla.hp.com>, andyc@hplsla.hp.com (Andy Cassino) writes:
>> bson@gnu.ai.mit.edu (Jan Brittenson) writes:
>>> 
>>> In article <5360809@hplsla.hp.com> andyc@hplsla.hp.com (Andy Cassino) writes:
>>> 
>>>  > If you want to get going fast, try a roll of Fujichrome 50D or Velvia.
>>> 
>>>    I'd also recommend tungsten-balanced film. Most of the night light
>>> comes from bulbs -- so do car lights. Using T film will give a much
>>> more bluish appearance. It's also a good idea to experiment (or
>>> bracket) with DM +/- 3 and DM +/- 6 filters (e.g. what some filter
>>> manufacturers call KR3, KB3, KR6, KB6 or CR3, CB3, CR6, CB6 or some
>>> such -- no idea what Wratten codes they would have though, the W.
>>> codes are too arbitrary for me to memorize). Well, at least bracket
>>> with a DM +3 and a DM -3.
>
>Sorry to spoil the theory, but what the hell is a 'DM' filter?

Decamired. A "mired" is, I believe, a milli-reciprocal-degree (Kelvin).
It's the standard unit of measurement for "warming" or "cooling" color
conversion filters. The higher the number, the stronger the warming
or cooling effect. Two CR1.5s are equivalent to *one* CR3. Two CR3s =
1 CR6, 1 CR6+ 1CB6 = 1 very expensive neutral density filter ;-). etc.
This is very handy for those of us who have trouble remembering whether
an 80A is warming or cooling and whether it's stronger or weaker than
an 80C ;-).

Steve
Newsgroups: rec.photo