HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: dannyb@panix.com (Daniel Burstein)
Subject: Re: 55 Chevy - No reverse
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 11:07:19 GMT
Organization: Panix, NYC

In <4220.88.uupcb@chaos.lrk.ar.us> dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)  writes:


>-> I can put the transmission INTO reverse, but it just doesn't move
>-> (engage?)  It as though it's still in neutral.  The car runs fine in
>-> drive (hi and low), and shifts just fine.
>-> So,  my question is, what could possibly be wrong with the
>-> transmission? Anyone out there with ANY ideas?

> Most likely, your shift rod fell off, or the lever on the side of the
>trans fell off.  Put it back on.

> If the rods are still hooked up, you have a broken shift fork.  That
>not only requires special tools to get to, but GM doesn't sell them any
>more.  You would have to replace the trans.
>                  

-----------------

Afraid I can't resist pulling your leg on this one <g>

Your car probably has the original ranking order for an automatic 
transmission, namely: P-N-R-D-H-L
  rather than todays: P-R-N-D-H-L

So,..... you're probably switching it into space #2, "Neutral", rather
than the Revers setting.

-----------------
now for today's question: three no-prizes to the first person who can tell
me when the switch was made to PRNDL...

dannyb@panix.com
From: eauu018@orion.oac.uci.edu (Glenn Kaino)
Subject: FORSALE : MOMO stars
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Organization: University of California, Irvine
Date: 6 Jan 93 20:26:33 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech

I have the following for sale:
	    (4) Momo 5-spoke stars, 16x7", chromed, fits Nissan, recent (last 3  
         years) Hondas
	    (4) Pirelli P700ZR16 size 205/50 2 with minor wear and 2 BRAND NEW
	        (they are $200 each new)

Retail price is over $2600....

Im selling mine for a $1200 + delivery

call (714) 854-7392 for information
leave a message for Glenn
From: scholten@esseye.si.com (David Scholten)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Ford Taurus Computer
Date: 5 Jan 93 19:03:02 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Smiths Industries

I have an `87 Ford Taurus 3.0L engine.  What I would like to
know is how to read out the error codes from the computer.

I had a very disturbing experience with a dealerships service
dept. last week.  I was told that the PT sensor was bad on
my car.  It cost $50 to hook up to the computer for the
diagnostic.  $125 dollars to replace the sensor and to clean
the plates.  Not knowing what a PT sensor was, all I could do
is accept their diagnosis.

Well, when picking up the car and getting the bad part, I realized that
a PT sensor was nothing than a potentiometer.  I took the part home
and have sinced ohmed it out to discover that nothing was wrong with
the original part.  I really feel like I got took!  The real irony
to the story is that the car runs worse than it did before.  When I
took it back, they claimed that it didn't exhibit any of the symptoms
I was complaining about.... so nothing touched.

Any help would be appreciated.
Dave Scholten
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: neal@cmptrc.lonestar.org (Neal Howard)
Subject: Re: Carter Quadrajet?
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 22:07:47 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: CompuTrac Inc., Richardson TX

In article <ALC.93Jan11144515@gdstech.GRUMMAN.COM> alc@gdstech.GRUMMAN.COM (Al Chang) writes:
>In article <1993Jan10.170740.5731@nosc.mil> koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz) writes:
>
>   In article <1993Jan09.033725.5851@eng.umd.edu> floyd@eng.umd.edu (Greg Butler) writes:
>
>   >Is that a typo?  Everyone knows Quadrajets are (were) made by
>   >Rochester, right?  That's what I thought until I picked one up
>   >     "MFD BY
>   >      CARTER
>   >      CARBURETOR
>Are you sure its not a thermalquad(sp?)?? I think Carter made the
>thermalquad in the 60's and 70's. I think my Chryslers with 440's and
>383's had them.
>Al Chang (516)346-6757,  FAX: (516)575-0965, email: alc@calvin.grumman.com

Nope, it's a QuadraJet, and they were made by both Rochester and Carter.
The Carter thermoquad is an entirely different carb, it is a spread-bore
design also (the Q-jet was the original spread-bore design that was mass-
produced) but it only shares the bolt pattern and bore spacing with the
Q-jet. The innards of a T-quad are radically different from a Q-jet and the
T-quad main body is made of plastic (no kidding for those of you who have
never seen one) to help keep fuel temperature in the bowls a little cooler.
I have a 750CFM Thermoquad currently on a 1970 429CJ Ford motor but I'm 
thinking of trashing it due to repeated problems with needle/seat/float    
sticking open and several replacements of all of these have never permanently
fixed the problem and I'm tired of all those "special moments" when about
a half gallon of gas gets dumped all over the top of my engine and down the
intake.

-- 
=============================================================================
Neal Howard   '91 XLH-1200      DoD #686      CompuTrac, Inc (Richardson, TX)
	      doh #0000001200
         "Let us learn to dream, gentlemen, and then perhaps
          we shall learn the truth." -- August Kekule' (1890)
=============================================================================
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:17373 alt.autos.rod-n-custom:355
From: judy <judy@nepac.ucsd.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,alt.autos.rod-n-custom
Subject: Re: roll cage/bar and harness needed
Date: 4 Jan 1993 17:49:54 GMT
Organization: scripps inst. of oceanography
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: alfa.ucsd.edu
X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1.1d13
X-XXMessage-ID: <A76DB8C232021B32@alfa.ucsd.edu>
X-XXDate: Mon, 4 Jan 93 09:49:54 GMT

roll cage/bar and harness needed

Try AutoPower in San Diego - they make custom bars and also stock bars for
various cars.  I have an old business card from them - the name on it is
Rick White,
their phone # is (619) 297-3300.
There are a LOT of companies out there who sell harnesses.    For the
kind of racing
I do, I used a 6-point, with the seatbelt holes that were already in the
car for both
the lap and sub belts -- and used the circle-hoop bolt (sorry, I'm not
the most
technical-worded person) with clip-on belts so I could take out the sub
belt when
I use the car to go to work....  and the shoulder belts wrap around the
roll bar.
Jim Hall racing, Phantom products - buy a few of the magazines and look
around in
the back for places that sell belts and call around! 
  Good luck!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: x1sdup@esparc19.webo.dg.com (Stephen Dupre)
Subject: 89 Ford Taurus
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 93 22:15:50 GMT
Distribution: usa
Reply-To: Stephen_Dupre@DGC.ceo.dg.com 
Organization: Data General Corp.

My brother has a '89 Ford Taurus with a 3.0 litre/Automatic.  It's on
its' 3rd transmission.  The original owner had a transmission replaced
under warrantee.  The transmission seems to "slip" in 2nd gear.  In 
each case, the transmissions put in were from the factory and replaced
at the dealership.  (they were all "updated" to the latest technical
bulletin changes).  The car currently has under 60k miles and was owned
by a very conservative driver previously who had all scheduled work done
at the ford dealership.

Has anyone had the same problems with Taurus transmissions or is this
an isolated incident?  Anyone know of any technical bulletins mentioning
transmission problems?
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dye@i88.isc.com (Ken R. Dye )
Subject: Re: Carter Quadrajet?
Organization: INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation, Naperville, IL
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 22:32:22 GMT

In article <ALC.93Jan11144515@gdstech.GRUMMAN.COM> alc@gdstech.GRUMMAN.COM (Al Chang) writes:
>In article <1993Jan10.170740.5731@nosc.mil> koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz) writes:
>
>   In article <1993Jan09.033725.5851@eng.umd.edu> floyd@eng.umd.edu (Greg Butler) writes:
>
>   >Is that a typo?  Everyone knows Quadrajets are (were) made by
>   >Rochester, right?  That's what I thought until I picked one up
>   >the other day that had written on the side:
>
>   >     "MFD BY
>   >      CARTER
>   >      CARBURETOR
>
>   yep, I've seen 'em, I know someone that's got on on a '72 Pontiac Bonneville
>   with 455cid... yep, you *are* gonna have fun convincing parts-store counter-hlp
>   that you're not halucinating... but don't give up, the correct parts are
>   available, you just gotta look for 'em.
>
>
>Are you sure its not a thermalquad(sp?)?? I think Carter made the
>thermalquad in the 60's and 70's. I think my Chryslers with 440's and
>383's had them.

	Nope, I've got a carter q-jet in my '68 Bonneville...
apparently made under license.  To get the correct parts for
yours you probably should get the model number (on mine, VERY hard
to find/read, on the side of the carb); that should be in the
parts dude's quadrajet book....

and yes, the last guy I bought a rebuild kit from told me I was crazy too

--Ken
-- 
Ken R. Dye				an optimist is a guy		 |
Interactive Systems Corp., Chicago	that has never had		 | 
(800) LAI-UNIX x341			much experience			 |
dye@i88.isc.comm						archy	 |
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Soviet Air-cooled diesel engines
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 6 Jan 93 13:55:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> They produce air-cooled diesel engines that are claimed
-> to out perform the liquid cooled variety and can operate
-> at extremely high and low temperatures. Also, they are
-> supposed to be cheaper.

 That's nothing unusual.  The US Army Tank Command has done a wad of
research on what they call an "adiabatic"  (I know it's not the correct
word, but it's what THEY call it) Diesel that runs without any external
cooling at all.  TACOM used to publish papers about it with the SAE.

 That stuff is all directly applicable to air cooled Diesels, which are
nothing unusual either.  Royal Enfield (India) has been selling Diesel
motorcycles for a long time.  Kick start, too.
                                               
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz)
Subject: Re: Soviet Air-cooled diesel engines
Organization: Naval Ocean Systems Center, San Diego
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 18:52:19 GMT

In article <4573@sicsun.epfl.ch> boutzev@lcaohp1.epfl.ch writes:

>Last year I've seen a HUMMER (hmve or similar) belonging to some american troops
>in Germany.
>This type of vehicle really turns me on and I tried to get some info on it.
>I've found out that it has an air-cooled diesel engine. 

hmmmmmmmm, I don't know *what* it was you saw, but the 'hummer' is not
aircooled... it's powered by the second-generation GM conversion engine and is
liquid-cooled...

Walt K.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: thapar@hplabsz.hpl.hp.com (Manu Thapar)
Subject: Brake repair question
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 21:13:52 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories Palo Alto,CA


Hi,

I do not know much about car repair and thought I'd try to access the
power of the net. Any help would be appreciated.

A friend has an old big car. The brakes are not working effectively.
The mechanic said that the rotor needs to be replaced and the cost
would be around $200.

Someone told me today that rotor replacement is a sham and replacing
the brake shoes/pads would do the job. That would cost around $50.

Any views/suggestions about what should be done?

Thanks.

Manu

thapar@hplabs.hp.com
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:17573 rec.autos.sport:13328 rec.autos:31263 rec.autos.driving:7450
From: grant@pentagon-gw.army.mil (Pete Grant)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.sport,rec.autos,rec.autos.driving
Subject: Re: Building Stockcars
Date: 6 Jan 93 02:22:45 GMT
Organization: U.S. Army Artificial Intelligence Center, The Pentagon

In article <1992Dec27.131028.384035@magicbb.uucp> Wayne_Redman@magicbb.uucp writes:
>I need help buuilding a stock car actually I want to drive stockcar but I don't
>know how to get in it.  I would love if Darrel Waltrip or (Richard Petty is my
>hero) or Rusty Wallace or somebody would give me the chance to race and turn a
>few laps to prove myself worthy.  Anyone out there listening or can help me
>out, I don't even have to run laps, I JUST WANT TO LEARN!!!!!!
>
>Thanks.
>
Many race tracks have schools that furnish you with a car and teach you
how to drive.  Yup!  You need to learn how.

Attending a driving school is the cheapest way to find out what it's like and
whether or not it's for you.  Building you own car is not a good way to get
into racing.  First, the car you build will probably be uncompetitive or will
cost you twice as much as a used racer.

Try to find a club and get a phone number for any of its members.  If the
club is anything like SCCA, you'll find a racing enthusiast who will steer
you into the right direction and provide you with phone numbers of people
with expertise in car preparation, where the local tracks are, etc. etc.

>PS I really don't know ow to use the net but I'm on Magic Systems and can 

You seem to be doing just fine.

BTW, if you're interested in Road Racing (no, not on public roads), you can
contact the SCCA at (303) 694-SCCA anytime.  Ask them for the region that
serves your area and that will put you in touch with local racers.
From: lee@hsh.com (Lee Havemann)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Oh No!  I need the doctors advice!
Date: 11 Jan 93 17:29:15 GMT
Organization: HSH Associates

In article <1993Jan10.233048.62609@cc.usu.edu>, slhmz@cc.usu.edu writes:
> 
> Doctor!  Doctor!  Help me!
> 
> Symptoms:
> 
> 1.   Extreme loss of power when accelerating or starting out in first.
> 
> 2.   Nearly stalls (but hangs on) when shifting from first to second, or
>      when you floor the accelerator.
> 
> 3.   Horrible smell whenever the engine has to work to get up a steep hill,
>      or over a snow drift, etc...
>      The smell is not like oil, but more like the smell of a vacuum cleaner
>      burning it's belt.  Smell comes from the engine as well as in exhaust.
> 
> 4.   Extremely poor engine preformance at low idles and in 5th gear.
> 5.   "Check Engine Light" comes on occationly, setting code 23
> 
> What is wrong?  What is making that smell?
> 
> The car?  1987 Pontiac Sunbird SE  2.0L 4cyl.  Throttle body FI
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> --
> Travis Carter
> 
>     

That engine was a classic case of poor design.  Probably blew the head gasket
and warped the aluminum head. 
  Seen it happen on lots of that year Sunbirds. Did you notice your tempature 
gauge (if you have one) climb into the red for a short period of time?

If you open your radiator overflow, does it smell like the one you described 
previously?  Does your oil have a mayonaisse looking consistency? Oil in the 
radiator? Water coming out the exhaust pipe?

-- 

 Lee Havemann, Comp Ops Dir.    HSH Associates      (201) 838-3330 
 Internet: lee@hsh.com    Compuserve: 70410,3507    AOL: HSH Assoc
 "Any opinions expressed are not necessarily those of anyone else, 
  including myself."
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Oh No!  I need the doctors advice!
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 12 Jan 93 20:01:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> Correct me if I'm wrong, but an ideal gasoline engines exhaust should
-> be comprised of water and carbon dioxide, shouldn't it? The carbon
-> monoxide and hydrocarbons are byproducts of incomplete combustion.

 You'll also get oxides of nitrogen, since air is mostly nitrogen.
                                                      
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: frankb@sad.hp.com (Frank Ball)
Subject: Re: 90/130W H4 QI headlight bulbs wanted
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 21:49:06 GMT
Organization: HewlettPackardSantaRosaSystmsDiv,RohnertParkCA
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

Dave Williams (dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us) wrote:
& 
& -> daylight?  I've never found headlight beams to be annoying during the
& -> day, and I think motorcyclists should run with high-beams on in
& -> daylight (they need every chance they can get to be seen by
& -> "blind" 4-wheelers).
& 
&  1) motorcycle headlights can legally be MUCH brighter than car lights

60 watts / 55 watts is the legal limit for bikes.  I think cars can use
the same brightness, but they get to use more of them than a bike.

--
Frank Ball   1UR-M          frankb@sad.hp.com    (707) 794-4168 work,
Hewlett Packard             (707) 794-3844 fax,  (707) 538-3693 home
1212 Valley House Drive     IT175, XT350, Seca 750, '62 F-100, PL510
Rohnert Park CA 94928-4999  KC6WUG, LAW, AMA, Dod #7566, I'm the NRA.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang)
Subject: Re: 90/130W H4 QI headlight bulbs wanted
Organization: Brandeis University
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 19:33:01 GMT

In article <1993Jan8.143047.15292@nosc.mil> koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz) writes:
>In article <bob1.726438359@cos> bob1@cos.com (Bob Blackshaw) writes:
>>In <64350004@hpcss01.cup.hp.com> garyg@hpcss01.cup.hp.com (Gary Gitzen) writes:
>
>>>Does anyone know of a mail_order source for 90/130W H4 headlight bulbs?
>>For off-road use only I hope, think about the poor sucker coming the
>>>Thanks for any help.
>I haven't given any help yet... but here's a piece of *very* helpful advice --
>>Don't thank me, I wouldn't help anyone find bulbs like that, now a
>>Bob.
>Walt K.

Well! We certainly like our lights under control don't we.  Isn't
there a NHA (Nat'l Headlight Ass) or something to protect our rights?

In any case, I would really like to find 65/130s.  A little bit of
extra low beam to search out the joggers but not to annoy, and a lot
of bits of extra high beam for the back roads.  As well as the other
twits with 130W Hi's.

-andy

From: david@trsvax.tandy.com
Date: 08 Jan 93 19:46 CST
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Allen Group Testproducts?
Message-ID: <107200006@trsvax>
Nf-ID: #N:trsvax:107200006:000:203
Nf-From: trsvax.tandy.com!david    Jan  8 19:46:00 1993


  Does anybody have exprerience/s w/Allen Group Testproducts Division
  equipment? Are any CAR dealers online?



	 Ya'll be good!                            DISCLAIMER:
					      I own my own business
From: Michel_Denber.WBST147@xerox.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 88 Spectrum Turbo, CHECK ENGINE light occasionally ? How to.
Date: 12 Jan 1993 11:12:26 -0600
Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu

	"How do I check the codes on this type of car?"

This really should be a FAQ.  GM cars, the codes read out via the check engine
light.  With the ignition off, jumper the diagnostic terminal to ground.  This
means connecting terminals A and B on the ALDL connector together.  The
connector is under the dash, usually near the fuse box.  A and B are the two
rightmost pins in the top row, if you're looking at it so the key molding is at
the top of the connector.  Turn the key to "ON".  The ECM will flash a code 12
three times, followed by any stored trouble codes (each also three times),
followed by 12 again.  This cycle repeats until you turn the ignition off or
start the car.  The codes are indicated by counting.  I.e., "12" is "flash,
pause, flash flash, long pause".

To erase the codes, disconnect the ECM memory power.  This is usually separate
from the ECM's Vcc, so you either need to find the right place (on my car it's
the inline fuel pump fuse under the hood) or disconnect the battery (which will
also kill your radio memory).  I.e., removing the "ECM" fuse at the fuse block
probably *won't* work.

Or just get a copy of Diacom, plug it in, and read the codes right off your PC
screen.

			- Michel

denber.wbst147@xerox.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: brims@bnkl01.astro.ucla.edu (George Brims)
Subject: Re: Asbestos from brake pads - How to clean it up safely
Organization: UCLA Dept of Astronomy
Date: 11 Jan 93 15:09:38 PST

In article <1993Jan4.010704.27848@csc.canberra.edu.au> mmr@asgserver.canberra.edu.au (Micheal Rainford-Watson) writes:
>Recently I was changing the brake shoes on my car and noticed all the
>warnings about asbestos dust. What wasn't suggested was a way to get
>rid of it without breathing it in. Does anyone know how to do this
>safely and without any fancy tools?
And what about clutch linings? My '86 Chevy/Geo  Spectrum 
awaits new clutch parts with the transmission sitting on the floor. Inside
the bell housing is a lot of reddish dust which must be the remains of
the former clutch lining. The new parts (I have all but one) are marked
"asbestos free" but what about the old ones?

George Brims
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: cleaning solvents
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 4 Jan 93 19:11:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> Generic paint thinner is cheaper than gasoline -- there is no road
-> tax on it ( I assume you cannot get gasoline without road tax ).  You

 Generic paint thinner runs about $3/gal here, vs $0.99 for gasoline.
Kerosene runs $1.25 or so.

 I'm not too partial to the idea of having thinner or gasoline fumes in
my face when I lift the lid, and though my local fire department says
it'd be OK since I have a tank with a lid and external vent, I'd sort of
like to stay away from flammables, at least flammables on the order of
kerosene, which isn't all that great for cleaning parts anyway.  (leaves
an oily scum)

 Mainly, what I intend to clean is grungy car parts, after I scrape and
wash off all the easy stuff.
From: ken.akridge@cutting.hou.tx.us (Ken Akridge) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Madness due to carb backf
Date: 5 Jan 93 05:58:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: The Cutting Edge - Houston, TX - 713-466-1525
Reply-To: ken.akridge@cutting.hou.tx.us (Ken Akridge) 

.MZ> I have a 78 International Scout II with a 345 V8, Holly 2010 carb .
.MZ> Prestolite distributor that backfires through the carb when hot.  .
.MZ> problem that goes away for a while but always returns.            .
.                                                                      .
.KA>    Simple.  Trash the Prestolite and replace it with one from an  .
.KA>    old IH bus (they have the points and condenser distributors).  .
.                                                                      .
.MZ> Thanks. I had also thought about this. I wish that I was SURE it  .
.MZ> was the distributer.                                              .
.MZ>                                                                   .
........................................................................

     I had the same symptoms on my 1979 Scout.  But after a while,
the backfire symptoms changed.  The electonic module inside the
distributor died.  After replacement, the engine would run smoothly
for a few months.  The SECOND time this happened was when I started
looking for a replacement distributor.  Since installation of a
points and condenser type, over two years ago, the Scout has
performed flawlessly.  Your mileage may vary.
                             ...sue
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