HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jwc@netx.com (Jeff Comer)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Tomatoes SLOW to ripen! <Call for recipes>
Date: 19 Aug 92 22:11:24 GMT
Organization: NetExpress Inc., Vienna, VA, USA

stead@skadi.CSS.GOV (Richard Stead) writes:
>Tomatoes real late here in Northern VA as well.
>I just got my first red ones this week, so maybe I won't be eating any more
>green ones for awhile.

scum@pcthree.com (Steve Monroe) writes:
>It must be because you're do close to D.C. ;-)  Way out here in Sterling, VA
>I've been eating red ones for about three weeks... Beefsteak, plum, cherry,
>Nutin bettern a big 'mater sandwich.... um um good
 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
 Amen!

jclose@chesapeake.ads.com (Jeff Close) writes:
>I live in Alexandria near National Airport, and ours have been ripening for
>a few weeks, so it's not proximity to DC.  Sun, maybe?

Agreed. Out in Burke, the tomatoes have been coming in now for about three
weeks, albeit very slowly. My site gets about 4-6 hours sun daily at best,
closer to 0 hours the last week or so! Yellows (Lemon Boys) have been spec-
tacular, beefsteaks slower. Lousy year for tomatoes, actually. But the 
peppers have really suffered... I can't recall a year that has been worse
for growing sweet or hot peppers.

At this rate, we'll be able to put together a tomato report for the entire
Northern Va region!

--
Jeffrey W Comer * jwc@netx.com * 703-749-2369 (v) * 703-749-2375 (fax)
"We will, we will, rock you!" -George Bush (U-2)
From: ljane@devnull.mpd.tandem.com (Linda Cast)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Brittle pecan tree
Date: 31 Aug 92 14:21:21 GMT
Reply-To: ljane@devnull.mpd.tandem.com (Linda Cast)
Distribution: austin
Organization: Tandem Computers; Austin TX
Originator: ljane@ocean


 Hi,  

 Here in Texas, pecans are considered native trees. Our neighbor has a fine
 old pecan tree, still bearing well, that is becoming brittle. Several branches
 have cracked off lately - fairly large branches. The other neighbor, a long
 time gardener, but we hope mistaken, says the heavy rains cause the sap to
 be extruded quickly and the tree to become brittle. 

 Is that true? Are other types of large trees at risk? Elm is our concern -
 Is there a product to help prevent further damage to her tree?

 Thank you,
 - L
-- 
Linda Cast             ljane@mpd.tandem.com
From: duanej@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Duane Jacobson)
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 00:15:45 GMT
Subject: Re: spacing on trees, shrubs
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA
Newsgroups: rec.gardens

>My question is, how much space to you leave between trees and shrubs in
>a landscape? I've seen too many yards that are planted as if the new plants
>aren't going to grow anymore. What you end up with in a few years is a mess
>as all the plants grow together in one big tangle. I'd like to avoid this.
>
>I have a few books on landscape design. They give standard sorts of distances.
>But, doesn't it depend on the plant? I would imagine you plant some things
>closer together than others. Anyone know of any resources for this kind of
>information?

The City of Aurora, CO (Water Dept.) has published a book on Xeriscaping
or water conservation or some such topic.  It has a good listing of plants
for the Denver area, and includes mature heights and spans.  I bought a
copy from the Ft Collins water dept for $5.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: pharvey@mipos3.intel.com (Paul Harvey)
Subject: Re: Sensitive plants (??)
Organization: Leguminoseae, Fabaceae, it's all a hill of beans ...
	<1992Sep2.101438.737@calmasd.prime.com> <fR6WbNi@quack.sac.ca.us> 
	<b1VV03xt76M=00@amdahl.uts.amdahl.com>
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 00:28:14 GMT

In article <b1VV03xt76M=00@amdahl.uts.amdahl.com> 
karl@uts.amdahl.com (Karl Rowley) writes:
<I've seen them get out of control in this area.  My neighbor has one that
<was severely pruned to an 8 foot high stump about a year ago.  It has now
<grown back to be about 20 feet tall and 20 feet across.  This is a 
<nuisance tree for a small yard once it gets this large, almost as bad as
<some of the mullberries in the area. 

That doesn't sound like M.pudica which only gets to two feet or so. What
you describe sounds like tree of heaven or maybe what is called mimosa or
silk tree in the US. Tree of heaven is the tree that grows in Brooklyn and
is a very common urban or weed tree. Mimosa or silk tree has pink flowers
and bean pod seeds in the fall.
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Poison ivy & "roundup"
Date: 3 Sep 92 16:15:14 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

In article <JLAWLOR.92Sep3100204@ptdi12.intel.com>, jlawlor@ptdi12.intel.com (Jay Lawlor ~) writes:
> Forgive my ignorance but is it ok to compost stuff that you used
> Roundup on?  I hope so because I did.  Haven't used the compost yet,
> though.

Glyphosate, the active ingredient of Roundup, binds very tightly to soil
particles and is almost instantly unavailable for plant killing.  That's
why you have to apply it to leaves and stems.  It breaks down to amino
acids and phosporous in less than 6 months in most cases.

Kay Klier   Biology Dept  UNI
From: rk30+@andrew.cmu.edu (Ruth Kline)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Heirloom/antique fruit trees.
Date: 25 Aug 92 16:21:09 GMT
Organization: Records, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA

Two other sources for informative descriptions are Henry Field and J.W.
Jung Seed Company -- both are long-established companies that are still
run by 
descendants of the founders.  Jung's phone number in Wisconsin is
414-326-3123.  If you're interested, I'll bring the Field's phone number
tomorrow. I wonder
if the Penn State School of Agriculture might be of help.  Chambersburg,
which is in the general proximity of Penn State, is famous for both its
peach trees and Civil War battle, so there's a chance that someone at
Penn State might share your interest.  Two old-time apples that I
remember my grandfather longing for
are Northern Spy and Russet Coat. Good luck in your interesting quest!
-- Ruth Kline, Carnegie Mellon
From: Jack.Honeycutt@f52.n105.z1.therose.pdx.com (Jack Honeycutt)
Sender: postmaster@therose.pdx.com
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Pond Building
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 06:18:32 -0700

Hello William!

25 Aug 92, William Stoffel writes to All:

 WS> Per word-of-mouth, Tetra is pretty good about honoring their 10 year
 WS> warranty. (I hope I don't have to find out though).

Sitting by the pond is one of the most relaxing things I know.

Give us a progress report on yours now and again.

Jack

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: lp@well.sf.ca.us (Lily Pond)
Subject: red fox urine
Organization: Whole Earth 'Lectronic Link
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 14:15:42 GMT


The discussion above on the fox urine: I'd like to hear people's
experiences. How do cats react? I would hate to have mine feel uncomfortable
in his own garden - but then I'd sure like to keep out the skunk.
From: Jack.Honeycutt@f52.n105.z1.therose.pdx.com (Jack Honeycutt)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Pond Building
Date: 23 Aug 92 01:50:24 GMT
Article-I.D.: therose.714604328.F00002

Hello Bill!

20 Aug 92, William Stoffel writes to All:

 WS> OK, I almost hate to ask, but what about those of us (or am I the only
 WS> one) who have already put in ponds with PVC liners? About  how much
 WS> time do my shibunkins have before dooms day? :-(

 WS> Seriously, I did try to design the thing to minimize liner exposure
 WS> to UV. Is there anything else I can do to extent the life?

 WS> When dooms day does arrive, will I be able to lay a new rubber liner
 WS> over the old PVC? (I wore out too many body parts putting the beast
 WS> in in the first place. I would not look forward to removing/reinstalling
 WS> the many tons of rock, etc.)


     Well Bill, the life of best Tetra PVC liners that have come
out in the last 2 to 3 years is 10 years plus, according to Tetra.
It sounds like you have done your homework and tried to prevent the
liner from being exposed to light.  Water is a good UV block, so
the liner will self destruct at the water line when it is time for
it to go (all things being equal).  I just can not see PVC lasting
that long, but Tetra is a good company, so I hope I am wrong.

     Doing things like keeping the pond topped off, and making sure
any exposed liner is shaded by something is your best bet, and it
sounds like you are doing that already.  Keep up the good work!

     There is no problem in placing a new EPDM liner on top of your
old PVC liner.  BUT, it sounds to me like you have rock and stuff
inside the pond?  If this is the case, and I hope it is not, then
you will need to remove it, place the liner, then put the rock back
in (if you want to).  I hope your plants are in pots and you do not
have a soil bottom pond.  Give me the big picture Bill.

     In any event, you will need to police the area that the old
liner is laying on for sharp stones or other objects.  If all looks
well, then just lay your new liner on top of the old.  If you do
feel something sharp behind the old liner, you can either pull back
part of the old liner (if that is possible) and remove the object,
or place something between the old liner and the new.  Carpet
scraps are often used.

     My last pond was made out of 60 mil EPDM.  It can bake in the
sun for 100 years and still not break down.  It is so strong, I
could not make a hole in it with my fingers.  It is cheep, and sold
by most commercial roofers. Jack
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: richter@gpu.utcs.utoronto.ca (C. Richter)
Subject: Mystery Tibetan herb
Organization: UTCS Public Access
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 22:00:55 GMT

On behalf of a friend, I am posting this request in case anyone here might 
know the answer.

------
 
BARCELONA, Spain (AUG. 9) UPI
 
....
 
The medical center at the Olympic Village was consulted 115 times. It said the
strangest request concerned a Tibetan plant extract. It was brought in to see
if it contained any substances on the IOC's list of banned drugs.
 
------

Conrad Richter
Richters Herbs
Goodwood, ON  L0C 1A0  Canada
 
Anybody know what competitor it was, and/or what Tibetan herbal medicine s/he
was interested in?
From: stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil (William Stoffel)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Pond Building
Date: 25 Aug 92 16:54:14 GMT
Article-I.D.: oasys.24077
Reply-To: stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil (William Stoffel)
Distribution: na
Organization: Annapolis Detachment, CARDEROCKDIV, NSWC

In rec.gardens, Jack.Honeycutt@f52.n105.z1.therose.pdx.com (Jack Honeycutt) writes:

(In response to my ?'s re: life of PVC liners)

Thanks for the reponse Jack!

>     Well Bill, the life of best Tetra PVC liners that have come
>out in the last 2 to 3 years is 10 years plus, according to Tetra.
>It sounds like you have done your homework and tried to prevent the

I tried. I'm still compensating for some settling, but I hope to have
the entire liner covered by water or stone in the near future. I used
a 23x30' 32mil Tetra liner.

>     Doing things like keeping the pond topped off, and making sure
>any exposed liner is shaded by something is your best bet, and it
>sounds like you are doing that already.  Keep up the good work!

That's my intent. Thanks for confirming this!

>     There is no problem in placing a new EPDM liner on top of your
>old PVC liner.  BUT, it sounds to me like you have rock and stuff
>inside the pond?  If this is the case, and I hope it is not, then

Sorry for being so unclear. I have a wall of stone about 1-2' high on
the edge of the "high side" of the pond. (I had to put in on a slight
grade and opted for cutting into the grade vice building up the low
side). The rock only covers the overlap of the liner. If I put any rock
in the pond I will not put them directly on the liner itself.

>you will need to remove it, place the liner, then put the rock back
>in (if you want to).  I hope your plants are in pots and you do not
>have a soil bottom pond.  Give me the big picture Bill.

Yes, everything is in pots or window boxes (on the shelf).

>     In any event, you will need to police the area that the old
>liner is laying on for sharp stones or other objects.  If all looks
>well, then just lay your new liner on top of the old.  If you do

I installed the original liner over carpet and newspaper, but I think
your suggestion to double-check is a very good one.

>     My last pond was made out of 60 mil EPDM.  It can bake in the
>sun for 100 years and still not break down.  It is so strong, I

OK. I'm sold. I just hope I get a few years out of my PVC first :-)
Per word-of-mouth, Tetra is pretty good about honoring their 10 year
warranty. (I hope I don't have to find out though).

Thanks again Jack.
Bill
__________________________________________________________________________
Bill Stoffel              |  CARDEROCKDIV, NSWC  |First things first!     |
stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil |  Code 2759           | (But not necessarily in|
(410) 267-3825            |  Annapolis, MD 21402 |that order) - The Doctor|
_________________________________________________|________________________|
From: gates@hpfcdc.fc.hp.com (Bill Gates)
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 21:04:12 GMT
Subject: Re: Pruning  (Was Re: Advice: Peonies, iris, lilacs)
Organization: HP Fort Collins, Co.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens

Interestingly enough, this group is not always humorous.  They have picketed
homes where poor pruning jobs are discovered, and they have sic'd city
officials on to folks with similar "violations" (on what grounds, I haven't
the foggiest).

Bill
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: shafer@rigel.dfrf.nasa.gov (Mary Shafer)
Subject: Re: Sensitive plants (??)
Organization: NASA Dryden, Edwards, Cal.
	<fR6WbNi@quack.sac.ca.us> <b1VV03xt76M=00@amdahl.uts.amdahl.com>
	<1992Sep3.190340.6495@iscsvax.uni.edu>
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 19:32:22 GMT

On 3 Sep 92 19:03:40 -0500, klier@iscsvax.uni.edu said:

Kay> Are we talking about the same critter here?  My reference books say
Kay> 3 ft tops for M. pudica (which folds leaflets when touched)-- I've
Kay> never seen more than 2.5 ft.  There are other species of Mimosa that
Kay> are trees, but they aren't touch sensitive.

The common tree mimosa (I can't remember its name) does fold its
leaves up at night.  It's nice to be up early in the desert morning
and watch the trees unfold themselves.

--
Mary Shafer  DoD #0362 KotFR NASA Dryden Flight Research Facility, Edwards, CA
shafer@rigel.dfrf.nasa.gov                    Of course I don't speak for NASA
 "There's no kill like a guns kill." LCDR "Hoser" Satrapa, gunnery instructor
                       "A kill is a kill."  Anonymous
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu (John Snyder)
Subject: Re: Raising PH - collect rainwater?
Organization: Physics Department, Carnegie Mellon University
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 11:05:05 GMT

In article <haines.111.715584277@eng2.eng.monash.edu.au> haines@eng2.eng.monash.edu.au (Andrew Haines, Civil, 1/113) writes:
>
>>From rfrench@Xenon.Stanford.EDU (Robert S. French)
>>ur local tap water in Palo Alto has a PH of around 5.5.  This wreaks
>>havoc with my hydroponic gardening, since the PH decreases rapidly as
>>the nutrient solution is used up.  I've tried adding lime to the
>>solution, but it tends to settle out and clog up the pump.  I've also
>>tried General Hydroponics' "PH Up", but even a full quart in my 35
>>gal. tank doesn't have a noticeable effect.  Does anyone have any
>>better suggestions?  Perhaps some chemical I could buy from a chemical
>>supply house that would be cheaper than $10/qt for PH Up (and a lot
>>stronger).
>>
>>		Rob
>
>Various other posters have described methods of raising pH.  But of course 
>you could collect rainwater to use instead of your acid tap water.  
>Depending on the volume you need put some buckets out next time it rains, or 
>install a small rainwater tank - perhaps something as simple as an old 44 
>gallon drum fed from your roof.  It does rain in Palo Alto? :-)
>
>Andrew Haines                       \ "You're all individuals!"
>Computer Systems Officer              \ "WE'RE ALL INDIVIDUALS!"
>Monash University, Melbourne, Australia \ "I'm not!" Monty Python:Life of Brian


This assumes, of course, that your area does not have acid rain.  I believe
that the Adirondaks (NY) and certain areas of PA and New England have quite
acid rain (If I remember right, in the Adirondaks it is killing the fish
in lakes).  Areas that have limestone trout streams are relatively immune,
since the limestone neutralizes the acid.

I'm told that the way that the acid waste from our chemical
benches at work is neutralized is that it is flowed through a ceramic
crock full of limestone.  Perhaps this or something similar would be
a way to solve your problem.  Maybe a cloth bag to hold powdered limestone,
and flow your water through it (like the same idea as the cloth bag that
catches the diatomaceous earth when you back-wash a swimming-pool filter).
No more clogging the pump.

I'm curious:  do you know why your tap water is so acid?  (I don't
believe that you have a problem with coal-mine seepage/run-off in
Palo Alto, do you?)  Do you know what geology causes it?  Or is it
from acid rain (are you downwind from many coal-fired powerplants or
factories?)?  Also, does anyone know why coal mine drainage is acid?  
Coal is mostly carbon, which, I believe, should not cause a problem.  
Is it the sulphur impurities that cause the problem?

John
snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu
From: th2_oate@csd.brispoly.ac.uk (Tom Oates)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: How to grow Garlic
Date: 26 Aug 92 16:10:08 GMT
Organization: Bristol Polytechnic, England

In Somerset, England, my SO and I harvested our garlic crop a fortnight ago. 
We planted back in March. Simply separate the cloves and plant 'em 1 inch down
and 3 inches apart. Apart from obvious things like watering/weeding and the
occasional feed, that's about it. You'll know when they're ready for 
harvest because the leaves die away. Then you dig them up and hang them
up to dry. Don't leave them in the ground or they'll rot. Each clove that you 
plant will turn into a bunch like its parent ie. we planted half a pound by 
weight of garlic and harvested approx 2lbs. Ultimately the yield depends on
the variety/soil/weather etc so it's impossible to predict. Where do you get
the garlic to plant? Same place as we got ours: supermarket/delicatessen etc.
Believe me, garlic is very easy and rewarding to grow. I speak from experience.

Enjoy!

-- 
*************************************************************************
*  Tom Oates  (Bristol Poly, England)    *   DISCLAIMER:-               *
*  JANET: th2_oate@csd.brispoly.ac.uk    *   I speak only for myself.   *
*************************************************************************
From: woodley@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Judy Woodley)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Canning tomatillos and Verde Sauce
Date: 28 Aug 92 23:05:53 GMT
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server

I got a prolific crop of tomatillos this year and I have two questions that
I hope you experts can help me with:

* Are tomatillos acidic enough that they can be canned whole (I can only do
the water bath method).  If so, how long should I boil them?  (I tried one
batch following the recommendations for tomato, but the tomatillos disinti-
grated).

* I would also like to make up some green (verde) sauce.  I tried one recipe
but it is mighty sweet, so I froze it rather than 'canned' it.  Does someone
have a nice TART green sauce recipe they can share?

I'd like to can some whole and the rest as sauce....

Thanks!


Judy Woodley
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: reg@dptg.att.com (51351[efw]-Regina Mackiewicz(MT4799)1374MT)
Subject: Re: Canning Cookbooks
Organization: AT&T BL Middletown/Lincroft NJ USA
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 15:57:34 GMT


Ball Corporation
POBox 2005
Muncie, IN 47307-2005

Ball Blue Book , softcover $3.50  includes shipping and handling


They sell other canning goods and supplies 


phone number  1-317-747-6100

i just ordered a case of salsa making mix since i have just
collected my 3rd bushel of rome tomatos and can't find the mix
anywhere in NJ
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: amz@iguana.cis.ohio-state.edu (Arnold M Zwicky)
Subject: willow water for roses
Followup-To: rec.gardens
Summary: salicylic acid?
Organization: osu, lsa, outil, stanford,...
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 15:03:28 GMT

presumably what you get from willow (salix) branches is the salicylic
acid, better known to most people under the name aspirin (Acetyl
SPIRaeic acid, an old name for salicylic acid, which is present in
spiraea branches as well as willow branches).  books of household
hints often suggest putting an aspirin in the water for cut roses to
lengthen their lives.  modern life being what it is, the aspirin route
sounds like the best course, since an aspirin is easier to come by
than water in which willow or spiraea has been boiled.

but the question is whether salicylic acid, whatever its source,
really works.

arnold
From: jjwt@imagen.com (Julia Tien)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: fern sources
Date: 31 Aug 92 19:32:23 GMT
Expires: Saturday, 12 Sep 1992 00:00:00 EST
Distribution: usa
Organization: imagen

The last issue of SUNSET magazine had an article about sword ferns 
(Polystichum munitum) and I thought I'd ask the net for tips on 
growing ferns from seed, and if anyone has recommendations for 
mail-order sources for plants or seeds for this particular variety.

I'd actually prefer seed sources if ferns are easy to grow, as I've 
had much better luck with seeds than with plants (bare-root or potted).

I'd also appreciate suggestions for references on ferns, as this is 
something new to me.

Thanks!

Julia (jjwt@imagen.com)
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: RANUNCULUS???? What is it????
Date: 23 Aug 92 20:23:45 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

Neil Bryant Thornton <nt0a+@andrew.cmu.edu> writes:
> 	The thing that I need help with is : She was sent theses little claw
> shaoed seeds for a Plant called ranunculus. They are supposed to be a
> beautiful flower. However, when I looked up ranunculus in a refernce
> book it dreww paralells to buttercup. What I want to know if these are
> the same "{buttercups}" that grow like weeds around here and are damned
> near impossible to eradicate. 

Same genus, different species.  Don't know what your dad planted (there's
about 250 species of Ranunculus, and they grow all over the world),
but the claw-shaped tubers are probably Ranunculus asiaticus, and will
die if you don't dig and store them over the winter in areas with temps
hitting 0-5oF.

Kay Klier    Biology Dept    UNI 
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: mguyott@eriador.prime.com (M. Guyott)
Subject: What do the marks on my ...
Organization: Prime Computer R&D
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 14:11:43 GMT


What do the marks on my fertilizer spreader mean?  It is a Scotts fertilizer
spreader that I bought at a tag sale so I don't have any idea what the marks
on the spreader represent.

There is a lever on the handle that appearently opens the drop slot in the
bottom of the spreader but there is another lever on the back top of the
fertilizer holding container that has a scale on it.  I do not know what this
scale represents.  There are marks on the scale but the marks are spaced out
more at the left end and are much closer together at the right end.  The
scale goes from 1 to 16.

Any ideas, suggestions, or advice as to what these marks represent or where
I can find out this information would be appreciated.

Marc
----
Two of the worst things we teach our children are that a knowledge of science
is nice but not necessary, and a knowledge of sex is necessary but not nice.

Marc Guyott              Constellation Software, Inc.          (508) 620-2800
                         Framingham, Mass. 01701 USA                Ext. 3135
mguyott@primerd.prime.com       ...!{uunet, decwrl}!primerd.prime.com!mguyott
mguyott@eriador.prime.com       ...!{uunet, decwrl}!eriador.prime.com!mguyott
Newsgroups: rec.gardens