HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: kevins@eng.auburn.edu (Kevin Sullivan)
Subject: 89 Voyager LE 2.5 turbo 4, gas mileage and octane
Organization: Auburn University Engineering
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 14:25:11 GMT

Just bought this car, got 22mpg on highway (and some city) using 89 octane.
AC was on.  The next tank was 87 octane and I got 20 on the highway.  The 
manual says to use 87 minimum, the fuel door sticker says premium recomended.  
It didn't knock on 87.  Haven't tried premium yet.

Is this mileage about normal for this van/engine combo?  What does the 2.5 
nonturbo get?  The V6?  If anyone has this engine, let me know what you think 
about it.

Thanks,
Kevin Sullivan
From: ecrjbruce@economics.adelaide.edu.au
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Blueprinting - What is it.
Date: 20 Aug 92 11:20:08 GMT
Organization: Economics, University of Adelaide

In article <66032@hydra.gatech.EDU>, gt8166a@prism.gatech.EDU (DOERSCHUK,DAVID OAKES) writes:
> In article <1992Aug10.072900.6950@btcase.bt.co.uk> gss@btcase.bt.co.uk (Graham Sewell) writes:
>>jtw@lcs.mit.edu (John Wroclawski) writes:
>>
>>>In article <hhelanto.713187466@vipunen.hut.fi> hhelanto@vipunen.hut.fi (Henri R Helanto) writes:
>>
>>>	   Blueprinting means measuring all the clearances etc. of an
>>>	   engine and comparing them with the factory specs and, if
>>>	   needed, correcting them.
>>
Blueprinting is building an engine to exact factoryspecs, i.e. throwing away
the allowable tolerances and making it exactlywhat the designer called for. 
This is a guaranteed way to greater power although it can be as expensive as
you are prepared to pay.

regs

Rob
From: macman+@pitt.edu (Dennis H Lippert)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: GM 2.8L V6 oil leaks
Date: 15 Aug 92 20:05:25 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Pittsburgh
Originator: macman@pmax1.cis.pitt.edu

Hi all!

I find it gravely humorous to find that the engine I just bought (1984
Olds Omega w/ 2.8L V-6) has been referred to as the "Engine from Hell"...

Anyhow, this thing is leaking oil.  It appears to leak around the valve
covers, but we haven't really cleaned anything up to check for sure.

My dad claims (from the "old days") that Chevy engines always leak oil
at the valve covers.  Is this common on the 2.8 V6?  How much trouble 
would it be to replace the gaskets?  (hopefully easier than the back
spark plugs... :-).

Any replies welcomed...

-Den

-- 
===============================================================================
Dennis Lippert   -   macman+@pitt.edu or macman@vm2.cis.pitt.edu
The "Mac Maniac" operator at the Hillman Research Lab - Univ. of Pittsburgh
"All comments are mine, you'd look like a fool if *you* used them"
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: GM 2.8L V6 -> 4.3L V6 swap help
Date: 19 Aug 92 12:26:14 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL


 There is the Buick V-6 and there's the Chevy V-6. Just to be helpful the two
divisions produced them in the same displacements. The Chevy is probably what
you want; while the accessories change from year to year the blocks tend to
stay fairly identical and hence you stand a better chance of making the swap
with factory brackets, etc. The Buick version may also bolt fairly well; for
years the Buick V-6 went into cars which also took the 305 Chevy and also the
2.5l "Iron Duke" 4. However, if you are planning on performance upgrades I
believe you'll spend less on the Chevy V-6; many parts are common to it and
the V-8s. 

 The Buick V-6 will have an external oil pump on the front passenger side of
the engine and the distributor up front as well, both sticking out of a large
aluminum nose casting. I believe Buicks are more common. The Buick V-6 is not
a bad little motor; there're lots of folks making plenty of power (GNs etc.)
from them. However the Chevy is probably a better plan in terms of low cost
parts and straighterforward swapping.
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
From: augy@toz.buffalo.ny.us (Jeffrey Ehlinger)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Toyota Corrola Spark Plug Gap
Date: 19 Aug 92 04:31:34 GMT
Organization: The Tower of Zot - (716)691-3865


     I have a Chevy Nova, which we all know is a Toyota motor in American 
sheeps clothing. Although I have looked in all my guide books and owner's 
manual, I have yet to find listed the proper gap for the plugs. I figured 
that it would be posted under the hood, like many other cars, but alas, 
no gap. Does anyone know the gap for my 4-cylender 1.6 L?

==========================================================================
** Mail to: Augy@toz.buffalo.ny.us        <<<Tower of Zot>>> Bflo, NY   **
** The bus came by and I got on, that's when it all began!              **
From: derek@nezsdc.icl.co.nz (Derek Tearne)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Slick 5
Date: 12 Aug 92 22:17:11 GMT
 <BssHKx.24z@watserv1.uwaterloo.ca> <1992Aug11.011839.4997@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU>
Organization: Fujitsu New Zealand

In article <1992Aug11.011839.4997@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU> gjh@galen.med.Virginia.EDU (Galen J. Hekhuis) writes:

[bits deleted]

>                                       I am an avid reader of this group, 
>I rarely miss an article.  I used to be (before I got involved with computers)
>an NIASE certified general mechanic.  Perhaps it is a waste of netwidth, but 
>I have already gotten one suggestion, via email, that beer might be the key.
>I am trying that, but it seems to fog my windshield, so to speak...

Yes beer sounds good but perhaps gin or a gin based liqueur may be better -
or creme de menthe.  Yes thats the one,  oily for lubrication yet sticky to
adhere to the side of the vehicle for continued rust protection,  reasonable
viscosity for use as an oil additive and high alcoholic content for that 
extra performance fuel additive.  It has the right colour to be used in your
coolant as anti freeze.  Displaces water so can be used as damp start.
There are also applications in your other preferred leisure group (alt.sex).

OK.  Now where do I get some creme de menthe in an aerosol?

Derek Tearne
-- 

Derek Tearne. -- derek@nezsdc.icl.co.nz --  Fujitsu/ICL New Zealand -- 
From: jefftb@hpmwtd.sr.hp.com (Jeff Brown)
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 19:42:10 GMT
Subject: Re: Ford Explorer Problem
Organization: HP Santa Rosa Site (NMD MTA MWTD)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

 Does your Explorer have the electronic push button system of a conventonal
 lever operated transfer case? If it is lever, don't they offer both auto
 and manual hubs? I'm interested in buying a explorer but i have heard of
 front axle/4WD problems. Also, I would perfer manual hubs and lever activated
 transfer case, but I think they aren't widely available.


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: msingh@copper.ucs.indiana.edu (The Supreme Commander)
Subject: Re: Acura Integra clutch questions
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 15:54:29 GMT

>BUT, you obviously
>don't have or haven't driven a pre-90 Integra.  The engine has almost
>NO low-end torque and needs to be spun a little to get the thing to
>move from a stop.  Another poster stated that 1.5k should be enough,

As an owner of a 1987 Acura Integra LS (Back when this car was LOADED)
I haven't had any clutch problems at 56K, but I agree with the poster
about the need to rev the engine in order to prevent a stall. Many is
the time I've "peeled out" simply to prevent engine stall. In
rain/snow this makes the car absolutely un-driveable in certain
conditions. My one, and only, complaint about an otherwise wonderful
car. Now if only they hadn't gone and re-styled the damn thing, I'd
buy another!


				...Manu
-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------
The Supreme Commander wishes you a Supreme day. 
I'm a Magic Man, oooh, I got the magic hands, yeah...

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kenny@osf.org (Kenneth Crudup)
Subject: Re: 88 Turbo T-Bird IDLE FIX!
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 13:23:09 GMT

In article <BsxrMC.1Bo@maxim.com> bilge@maxim.com (Filippo Morelli) writes:
>I simply replaced the throttle position sensor, which is held in on the
>upper intake by two small bolts.  The problem should go away.

...for about a month.

	-Kenny
-- 
Kenneth R. Crudup, Contractor, OSF DCE QA
OSF, 11 Cambridge Center, Cambridge, MA 02142	+1 617 621 7306
kenny@osf.osf.org			OSF has nothing to do with this post.
Not one of the "PC" weenies.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: taylor@farm.rtp.dg.com (William Taylor)
Subject: Re: AC cause 80 citation to overheat
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 92 15:00:22 GMT
Distribution: usa
Reply-To: taylor@rtp.dg.com
Organization: Data General Corp., Research Triangle Park, NC

In article <1403@swuts.sbc.com>, rambo!jr9283@texbell.sbc.com (Joe Richmeyer 5-0029) writes:
|> Help!  Whenever I run the Air conditioner in my citation, it overheats.  If
|> I leave it off, the car runs fine.  I've checked the fluid level, water pump
|> & associated belts and the fan.  I have not checked the thermostat since it
|> doesn't overheat w/o the AC.  Any suggestions?  Thanks in advance

I had a similiar problem with my 83 bonneville for a couple of years - it
would only overheat when the AC was on and
1) it was HOT out,
2) after extended highway driving at a stop light or
3) in heavy stop and go driving.

I believe that the final answer was that my cooling system was not
performing at peak efficiency (backed up by advice from the net).
In my case, I believe that the radiator
was at fault because of a slow leak (this is bad because it will not
hold pressure) and maybe was internally corroded or partially clogged.

I finally replaced my radiator (with a heavy duty one - why not go all
the way while you're in there).  No more over heating.

buddy
-- 
Buddy Taylor 				taylor@rtp.dg.com
Data General Corporation		Research Triangle Park, NC  27709
From: jefftb@hpmwtd.sr.hp.com (Jeff Brown)
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 19:37:59 GMT
Subject: Re: Propylene glycol (was Re: Coolant Disposal)
Organization: HP Santa Rosa Site (NMD MTA MWTD)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

Do they charge for this and if so how much. I haven't been able to find anything around here.
From: paulw@hpspdla.spd.HP.COM (Paul Welch)
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 20:47:20 GMT
Subject: Pressurize Oil Before Starting ?
Organization: HP Palo Alto Fabrication Center
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

I have seen (many moons ago) information on a company that provides
"before you start it" oil pumps.  Basically, you add an aux. oil
pump that runs off the battery, and you pressurize your lubrication
system before turning the key to start the engine.  I have also 
read that on a typical 500 mile trip, 98% of the engine wear occurs
in the first ten seconds.  I did inquire about the aux. oil pumps
quite a while back, and found that the company had moved from 
Campbell, Ca., down to somewhere in So. California. Also, they wanted
about $400 to install one of their special aux. pumps.

1) Has anyone seen/heard of something similar?
2) What type of pump/motor combination should I look for if I
   attempt to try this myself?  What flow rate, what pressure for 
   the pump, what rpm and h.p. for the motor?

A couple of cool things I remember from the literature:  You could 
set up the wiring so that the pump comes on with the dome light, 
so that as you get into the car, the oil system is already starting 
to pressurize, therefore you hardly even have to think about it.
And, you can also include a timer in the circuit to run the pump for 
5 minutes or so after shutting off the engine, to help cool the oil
better than if it just sat where it was.            

I know there are lots of you techy-type folks out there who could help.
I think this could be a really slick addition to a car that might
actually extend the natural life of the motor significantly!


Thanks in advance!

PW
(too many vehicles to list)



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: curtis@achilles.ctd.anl.gov (Jeffrey S. Curtis)
Subject: Re: Ford power locks
Organization: Argonne National Laboratory
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 20:47:35 GMT

In article <1992Aug12.191722.11227@mcs.anl.gov>, curtis@.uucp (Jeffrey S. Curtis) writes:
|> In my mind, either all four functions would work, or none would work.
|> But why would two work, and two not work? Is there a control module
|> somewhere doing this? At each door, perhaps? I know there's a relay on
|> the starter relay, but that can't be the problem.  Any tips or pointers
|> are appreciated.. thanks..

To answer my own question (I just went down to the library and checked
out the wiring diagrams):

There are two units inside the door: a power lock *switch*, and a power
lock *motor*.  In the door I'm having problems with, apparently the
switch is fine, but the motor got fried.  Off to the parts store I go..

Jeff
--
       Jeffrey S. Curtis         | Internet: curtis@anl.gov
Computing and Telecommunications | BITnet:   curtis at anlvm
  Argonne National Laboratory    | X.400:    /PN=Jeffrey.Curtis/O=olivia
        +1 708/252-5031          |           /PRMD=anl/ADMD= /C=US/
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jimo@navaho.uucp (25656-o'keefe)
Subject: Re: Rear-end Bearings
Reply-To: jimo@navaho.UUCP (25656-o'keefe,james j)
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 92 12:31:24 GMT
Keywords: auto, repair

In article <1992Aug14.220821.5810@i88.isc.com> dye@i88.isc.com (Ken R. Dye ) writes:
>In article <1992Aug12.102939.11540@brtph560.bnr.ca> mjsutton@bnr.ca (Michael Sutton P025) writes:
>>In article <1992Aug11.221947.18634@porthos.cc.bellcore.com>, jimo@navaho.uucp (25656-o'keefe) writes:
>>|> 
>>|> Advice please...
>>|> 
>>|> I have a 87 Chevy G20 Van with a bad rear-end bearing.  The symptoms
>>|> are that I hear and feel a rumbling sound from the rear of the van
>>|> from 45 MPH and above.  I isolated it to the passenger side rear
>>|> wheel by running the van in drive with the wheel raised.  In that
>
>>I've done work on the rear wheel bearings in my 81 Datsun several times.
>>In my case the bearings are not pressed in, therefore no special tool is
>>needed.  The outer bearing simply falls out after I take the
>>brake drum off of the hub.  The inner bearing is kept from falling out by
>>a grease seal.  I simply remove the old seal and after replacing the
>>bearing carefully drive in the new one with a wooden block and a hammer.
>
>	Totally different than the GM RWD setup.  They have a
>permanently sealed bearing that is pressed onto the axle.  This
>unfortunatly cost $40 to replace 10 years ago; how much did this
>end up costing you, jim?
>
>--Ken

Ken,

I haven't done the job yet.  My auto supplier want $20 for both the
outer bearing and the seal.  Since I have to open the differential in
order to remove the axle, I plan to do both axles.  I'm figuring about
$60 for the job (including bearing puller rental) barring any problems.

I don't plan to replace the inner bearings.  If they are bad, how do I
get them out?

--Jim
From: shyguy@ocf.berkeley.edu (People's Park)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Premium gas to clean engine?
Date: 13 Aug 1992 22:11:01 GMT
Organization: U.C. Berkeley Open Computing Facility
NNTP-Posting-Host: sandstorm.berkeley.edu

In article <BsxEoG.n03.2@cs.cmu.edu> michal+@cs.cmu.edu (Michal Prussak) writes:
>
>I am perfectly aware of the fact that using premium gas in an ordinary
>engin won't improve performance, but my repair manual ("How to Keep
>Your Honda Alive...", an excellent book BTW), says that it's a good
>idea to occasionally fill up with premium. They say this will clean 
>up the engine (from carbon deposits?). So, what does the net think about
>it? 
>
>Michal

Is this post a response to the recent stuff on tv about the falseness
of using premimum gasoline for improved gas mileage, performance...?  I'm
sure someone must have seen it... (a report put out by some group
supposely refutes many of the benefits that premimum gas may provide.)

My question is what are the popular beliefs in benefits that one might
receive in using premimum gas. vs. what is being refuted in that report?

By now, you guys are probably saying, "we've discussed this before when
that question about the knock sensor appeared...."
But my main concern is what the heck is that report refuting?  Anyone
who knows about this report care to comment?  (where can i get this
report anyways?)

My experience (in my trusty volvo *w/* a knock sensor) is that premimum
gas does make a difference in *performance*.  I don't know about
gas mileage or the other stuff, but there is definetly a difference in
performance.  When I drive on steep grades, there is noticeably more power.
Much much better accelerating power on the freeway to pass those idiots
who drive at 50 MPH in the very LEFT lane. . .

david shy
shyguy@ocf.berkeley.edu

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kevin@nuchat.sccsi.com (Kevin Brown)
Subject: Re: Subaru EA81/EA82 engines
Organization: I can't see any in the immediate vicinity...
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 23:08:20 GMT

In article <23466@oasys.dt.navy.mil> samblane@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Sean Samblanet) writes:
>I have_ a 1980 with the 1.6 and never had a problem upto 120k miles.
>Recently the CV joint let loose.  It's going the the junk yard next
>week unless_ somebody wants to come get it.

You're kidding, right?

What *else* is wrong with the car besides the CV joint?  At most, you'll have
to replace the driveshaft (I seem to remember that Subaru has this nasty habit
of welding CV joints to the driveshaft).  That's probably less than $300 if
you're willing to do the work yourself.

Of course, if you're going to buy a new car anyway (if you don't already have
one), then it might be a moot point.  Even in that case, though, you should
be able to make a profit off the thing if you fix the CV joint and sell the
thing for $1000 or more.

>Sean Samblanet
>h 301 963-5792
>w 301 227-5411


-- 
				Kevin Brown

			    kevin@nuchat.sccsi.com
			    kevin@taronga.taronga.com
From: nall@sun8.scri.fsu.edu (John Nall)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: '57 tr3 no engine go jap
Date: 13 Aug 92 19:40:52 GMT
Reply-To: nall@sun8.scri.fsu.edu (John Nall)
Organization: SCRI, Florida State University

In article <qy5mwfg@dixie.com> jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond) writes:
>
>I heard that the reason british sports cars have two seats is so the 
>full time mechanic will have a place to sit between repairs.  Sounds
>credible to me.

   Me too.  I've had two of them, and would rather have my
   entrails eaten by rats than have another!  I had an Triumph
   TR4 (about a '62 or '63, something like that) which was not
   so bad, although not up to the level of, say, an Edsel.
   The other was a little MG Midget.  This car was evidently
   built as some sort of revenge instrument.  It would sit
   in the garage and things would just break, even though they
   were not being used.....I bought it for my teen-aged daughter,
   who thought it was "cute" and pleaded for it.  I found out
   from her years later that she spent most of her time pushing
   it from one place to another, because it would break down and
   she was ashamed to tell me after begging for it :-)  The only
   good thing was that it was so little that she could easily
   push it.  Never got a ticket for speeding, either.

   I like the British, though.  My ancestors.  Can't build sports
   cars worth a damn, however.

John


--
John W. Nall              | Supercomputer Computations Research Institute
nall@mailer.scri.fsu.edu  | Florida State University, Tallahassee, FL 32306
  "If Longstreet didn't blow it, and Lee didn't blow it, and given
    that Meade was incompetent, why the hell did we lose Gettysburg?"
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dilmore@cray.com (Robert J. Dilmore)
Subject: Re: HONDA PRELUDE wiper skips/jumps/nasty!
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 21 Aug 92 08:26:07 CDT

In article <BtC3Gw.1KD@encore.com> mpalmer@encore.com (Mike Palmer) writes:
>From day one, the wipers on my 86 prelude has never been nice & smooth.  They
>don't glide across the windshiled, but they skip & jump across.  Using the
>fast speed improves things, but I don't like that pace.  I've tried new blades,
>even the triple edge.   The Honda dealer is no help.   Anyone got a solution?
>
>
   First of all I beleive that I am assuming correctly that the winshield is
clean. The problem is either a design problem(very unlikely) or the wipers are
incorrectly aligned(highly likely). Let me try to assume the that the wipers
only skip going in one direction, correct go on, incorrect hit n. If the wipers
are canted like this "/" they will skip going to the left. If the wipers are 
canted like this "\" they will skip to the right. Carefully bend the arm with
pliers wrapped in a rag(as not to damage the finish) to make the wipers 
perpendicular to the glass surface like this "|".
   I just love fixing problems that I cannot see or hear! We need multi-
media for rec.autos.tech. 

Robert

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.motorcycles
From: skk@gsg.pa.dec.com (Stuart Kreitman)
Subject:  Coil impedance ?
Reply-To: skk@gsg.pa.dec.com (Stuart Kreitman)
Organization: DEC Western Software Laboratory
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 92 17:26:55 GMT

My question relates to a BMW motorcycle's electronic ignition system.

The bmw has a separate coil for each sparc^Hk plug. Sometimes these
2 coils are molded into one unit, but on my model, they are 2 separate
coils. A few years back I installed a "dual plug" setup which includes
2 dual coils, one pair of coils/spark plugs on each cylinder.
The setup also has a dyna "ignition amplifier", a sealed box that
probably contains a transformer. Its mounted for good airflow.
Within weeks, the ignition trigger unit mysteriously broke. The
dealer and I had a hard time tracing it. He felt it was heat related.
I removed the dual coils, but kept the amplifier for a few seasons.
I'm interested in retrying the setup, but discovered a puzzling factoid.

The Haynes describes troubleshooting by checking the resistence
of the coil.
I don't remember the exact values, but its something
like  0.7 ohms for 2 single coils or 1.3 ohms for 1 dual coil.
Since the 2 single coils are wired in series, the desired
resistence is ~1.4 in either case.

It turns out each of my nifty dual coils are stamped with "1.5",
which probably indicates its resistence.
Wired in series, this would add up to a resistence of 3.0, no?
Perhaps the d.c.'s should have the same rating as the single
coils they replace. Could this error be the culprit of the
earlier damage?

tia!
Stuart Kreitman
From: cfaks@ux1.cts.eiu.edu (Alice Sanders)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: $400 to fix oil problem in Cutlass?
Date: 12 Aug 92 15:30:33 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Eastern Illinois University

Oh, I forgot, the Cutlass is a 1978 Cutlass Supreme.  It had well over
100,000 miles, probably over 125,000.

Thanks

Alice