From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Wood selection and purchase
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: na
Date: Sat, 10 Oct 92 02:47:14 GMT

In article <1992Oct9.200100.22999@midway.uchicago.edu> owens@gargoyle.uchicago.edu (Christopher Owens) writes:

>(for reference, his price is $2.80/bf for 4/4 rough, random lengths
> and widths (min 4" width, min 6' length), 6% moisture,
> select-and-better cherry.  There is also somebody nearby (but I've
> got to do the schlepping) who'll make it s3s for a flat price of $40
> per load  (or I can do it myself using the equiment at a community
> shop nearby)

The price is a good one for select or better. I doubt that this fellow
intends to sell you "first" or "second" quality material at that price.
Make sure that he isn't intending to sell you number 1 Common. That's a
poor price for common grades.

Select cherry goes for upwards of $4.00'bd around here (with giddy forays
to over $6.00 in places), about $3.25'bd in NY state, and between $2.40 and
$3.00'bd in East Tennessee. The last load I bought, I got in Covington,
Tenn. for $2.90, milled both sides. For comparison, common grade cherry
sells for $2.40'bd in NY state.

>Anybody know how to specify cherry?  There appear to be multiple
>varieties running around under different names --- Thomas Moser's
>book, for example, sings the praises of "black" cherry, but warns
>cryptically that it's not to be confused with "northern pasture" or
>"pin" cherry, but a USDA book I checked gives some other names.  Also,
>although I've read up on hardwood grading, it's still a bit of a black
>art to me.  Is "select and better" what I want?

Cherry varies in color, depending mainly on the area in which is was
grown. The shorter the growing season, the darker it is. The term "black"
as applied to cherry refers to the color of the fruit, not the color of
the wood.

If you want the moderately red color, tell him you want "mostly heartwood",
but that some "streaks of sapwood at the edges are ok". That lets him know
you want good stuff, but doesn't make him pick through the stacks. You'll
get slightly less clear material if you do this. If you want lighter material
just tell him that sapwood is fine. As a species, you want "prunus serotina".

On hardwood grading - pick up a copy of "Fine Woodworking on the Small
Workshop". It has a section on lumber grading. A select or better hardwood
board is at least 4" wide, 6 to 16' long, has at least 91.66% usable
wood on the best face, with the smallest perfect piece being at least
4" by 5' long. The other face must be at least 83.33% usable, with the
smallest perfect board being at least 3" by 7' long.

Firsts must be at least 6" wide and the poorest face must be 91.66% clear,
etc. Firsts and seconds are usually lumped as "FAS". The book gives detailed
instructions on how to grade a board by eye. There are more comprehensive
books.

One thing. Store the wood in it's rough state until just before you're
ready to use it. Cupping and splitting which may occur in storage can
be planed out to some extent. If a planed board cups, you'll have to
plane it again (of course, those boards are good candidates for raised
panels).

patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
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                    |
George Patterson -  | No city is large enough to support one lawyer
                    | No town is too small to support two.
                    |                        Samuel Clemens
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