HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Sick pothos....
From: satilley@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu
Date: 27 Sep 92 15:15:42 -0500
Organization: Miami University Academic Computer Service"

I have several pothos plants that I just re-potted.  I had bought one at a
store and it was getting pot-bound.  Not to mention, it had too many <main>
roots  in the pot.  So, I carefully removed them and separated them into
several pots.  Now, a week later, some of the pots are okay, others look like
they are wilting..... They have been watered, and there is no excess water in
the bottom.  What's wrong?
Please e-mail me at the following address.

Anne.
 -- 
Anne Kaelber satilley@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu
Miami University
Oxford, Ohio
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: ceci@lysator.liu.se (Cecilia Henningsson)
Subject: Re: Rose hips
Organization: Lysator Academic Computer Society, Linkoping University, Sweden
Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1992 18:01:45 GMT

curtiss@burn.colorado.edu (Brian Curtiss) writes:
>For what purposes and in what ways can rose hips
>be used?  Also, how do you know when they are ready?

Why, you make rose hip soup of them! Let the hips stay on for a couple
of real hard frosts, or put them in the freezer for a fortnight. Then
remove the seeds, crush or pulverize them. Then you add water and boil
it with some sugar. Served hot with ice cream or cold with almond
bisquise. If you are really interested I could get you a more precise
recipe.

--Ceci. Who's ethnocentric?

--
=====ceci@lysator.liu.se===========================================
"Vad bryr vi oss om tsaren, se staren, se staren!"     EA Karlfeldt
(What do we care about the tsar, see the starling, the starling!)
===================================================================
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Seed viability
Date: 5 Oct 92 14:25:31 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

In article <1992Oct4.112643.23682@mnemosyne.cs.du.edu>, tmcintyr@nyx.cs.du.edu () writes:
> Just joined this group so bear with me if this is a redundant ?...
> I have a packet of tobacco seeds of the nicotiana glauca varity, a
> tree-like perennial,
> and the seeds must be 3 t0 4 years old now...I do intend to try 
> germination next spring, but would like to know if there is any
> hope after such a long wait?

Depends on how you stored the seed.  Cool and dry -- probably still OK.
Warm (room temp + ) and humid, probably dead.

Kay Klier  Biology Dept  UNI
From: claird@NeoSoft.com (Cameron Laird)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Orange roots - what tree has such ?
Date: 28 Sep 92 18:47:54 GMT
Organization: NeoSoft Communications Services -- (713) 684-5900

In article <1992Sep28.022046.7720@mcnc.org> kk@mcnc.org (Krzysztof A. Kozminski) writes:
>While digging in various places around the perimeter of my house, I
>invariably find some bright orange roots and am curious what tree they
>might belong to.  The color does not seem to depend on the root
>thickness: whether it is a 1-inch or 0.5mm diameter it is orange.  The
>roots to extend waaay beyond the drip lines of any trees.  Gentle
>excavations in the trunk vicinities of assorted trees failed to
>identify the owner of the roots (hmm, maybe it is the house itself that
>sprouted them ?-)
>
>The trees nearest to the root finding sites are mostly sweetgums and
>tulip poplars, some kind of a birch (river birch ?), mulberry (?) and
>an unidentified cypress-like thing.  They all seem to be large enough
>to send the roots to the distance of 40-50 feet.
			.
			.
			.
Mulberry.  It could be something else, but
mulberry wood definitely shows dramatic color,
and "orange" is within its range.  As it dries,
does it change to a definite yellow?  Also,
mulberry is notoriously a nuisance; its roots
turn up in unlikely places, although it's not
the worst for this.

I like mulberries, by the way.
-- 

Cameron Laird
claird@Neosoft.com (claird%Neosoft.com@uunet.uu.net)	+1 713 267 7966
claird@litwin.com (claird%litwin.com@uunet.uu.net)  	+1 713 996 8546
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Intensive Urban Garden
Date: 5 Oct 92 14:23:03 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

In article <1ajmaeINNnk5@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>, bj368@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Mike E. Romano) writes:
> 
>    I am doing a writing project on intensive gardening for 
>  food production only, organic methods.
>  I am wondering if there is a club or association which
>  focusses on backyard food production methods.

You should also look at materials produced by the US, British and Canadian
governments during the victory gardens era of WWII.  Also for an historical
concept, look at late 19th-early 20th century "kitchen garden" books and
horticultural journals.  Liberty Hyde Bailey is always well worth reading.
For contemporary approaches to putting food by, look at materials dealing
with Amish and Hutterite gardens.

Kay Klier  Biology Dept  UNI
From: Ecology Center <ecologycntr@igc.apc.org>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Date: 30 Sep 92 08:19 PDT
Subject: Re: roto-tilling hard clay
Nf-ID: #R:1992Sep29.181134.15680@cbnewsh.c:-916924632:cdp:1453300090:000:639
Nf-From: cdp.UUCP!ecologycntr    Sep 30 08:19:00 1992


Kurt;

Spend the money you'd have spent on a rototiller on gypsum and
compost.  Water the clay well, then, a couple days later, poke
holes in it with a spading fork. (If you don't have a spdaing
fork, maybe you can borrow mine? (510) 465-8491. If you have the
energy, lift the clay a little when you've got the fork in it.
Then sprinkle the gypsum, add a layer of compost, spade again, and
you're set.  DO NOT turn the soil, whether with the fork or a
rototiller. This destroys the soil profile (all the different
layers with their different flora & fauna) (which exist even in
your adobe soil :)) and is way too much work besides.

chris

From: fog@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Larry Fogelquist)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1992 16:53:05 GMT
Subject: Re: Garden Pond Questions
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.gardens

/ hpcc01:rec.gardens / aab@cichlid.com (Andy Burgess) / 10:31 am  Sep 20, 1992 /



>>- I don't like my edging.  It is loose river rock.
>>  What do other people do?

> This is what I have and I like it. What don't you like about it?

The main thing that bothers me is that it's loose and presents a hazard. 
Otherwise it's ok.  Sometimes I wish for a little 'cleaner' look to the
pond but it's supposed to look natural and that's pretty much how it
does look.  In fact, right now it looks like it's gone back to nature.


> Ponds are great!
 
Even though having a pond adds considerably more maintenance than I had
anticipated, I can't imagine not having one.  Whenever my wife and I 
discuss moving, I always get a little worried cuz then I'd have to 
dig another pond. 

Larry
From: langston@langston.cs.utk.edu (Mike Langston)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Re: Natural snail controls
Date: 29 Sep 92 01:58:00 GMT
Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of Tennessee
Distribution: world
Reply-To: langston@langston.cs.utk.edu (Mike Langston)
NNTP-Posting-Host: langston.cs.utk.edu

ok, ok, i recently wrote:

ml: judy woodley ponders:
ml:
ml: > I am grateful that we don't have banana slugs here, at least.
ml: > I wonder if your stomach would go numb if you ate one.
ml:
ml: i don't know, but mine turns over at the thought

and now liz jessup pounces:

lj: i'd like to know how mike can rave about fried okra
lj: but be so closed-minded about eating banana slugs

you know, liz, i think this okra aversion of yours is probably
just a conditioned response aggravated by the knowledge that
okra won't grow as well in your current digs (snowy boulder) as
it did in your last (sunny knoxville) -- have you sought out
professional help for this affliction?  :)

i don't remember mentioning okra on the net before (but liz
knows me and my love for the stuff) -- lest frying have an
unfair edge, it should be mentioned that it's equally good
stewed -- yummy, and you don't even need to chew!

lj: i can barely see the difference

between okra and a slug?  bet even your okra-deficient palate
can *taste* the difference  :)

so there -- how's that for a real shoot-em-up rec.gardens flame war?

-- 
mike langston <langston@cs.utk.edu>
department of computer science, university of tennessee
From: duanej@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Duane Jacobson)
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 16:43:33 GMT
Subject: Re: Source for Push Lawnmowers
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA
Newsgroups: rec.gardens

>You know, the manual, human-powered reel variety.
>Who sells them mail-order?  How much do they sell for?

There's the American Mower Company in Shelbyville, IN.  One of their
models is for sale at Builder's Square here in Ft Collins, CO.  I
think for about $70.

>Has anyone used one of the newer push mowers- the ones using
>aluminum and plastic vs the old ones made of cast iron and lead?

The newer models are supposed to be a big improvement over the
old iron ones.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: jessup@dot.cs.colorado.edu (Elizabeth Jessup)
Subject: Re: Re: Natural snail controls
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 00:09:56 GMT

In article <lc66gkINNpge@utkcs2.cs.utk.edu> langston@langston.cs.utk.edu (Mike Langston) writes:
>judy woodley ponders:
>
>> I am grateful that we don't have banana slugs here, at least.  
>> I wonder if your stomach would go numb if you ate one.
>
>i don't know, but mine turns over at the thought
>
>-- 
>mike langston <langston@cs.utk.edu>
>department of computer science, university of tennessee
>

i'd like to know how mike can rave about fried okra but be so 
closed-minded about eating banana slugs.   i can barely see 
the difference.

liz
From: jhb@calmasd.prime.com (Jim Bishop)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Lemon tree pest
Date: 4 Oct 92 06:03:42 GMT
Organization: -

In article <1992Oct02.213918.1673043@locus.com>, 
jpaul@locus.com (James Hensley) writes:
> Hi, it's the guy who planted the eureka lemon tree this spring.  It's
> already bloomed and set lemons.  It's blooming again now.  I have a couple
> of questions, though.  There is some new growth (branches) coming out of the 
> bottom of the trunk.  Should I trim these?  There's also a bunch of ants all 
> over the leaves, and they seem to congregate on the undersides of leaves that 
> also have some other kind of bug on them.  The other bugs are whitish-grey, and 
> don't move much.  I know ants herd aphids like this, but these don't look
> like any aphids I've ever seen.  They are too flat and white.  How do I combat
> these things?
> 

If your tree is grafted and the branches are coming from below the
graft, remove them.  Otherwise, it doesn't matter.
   
You have a type of mealy bug.  They are really bad this year in
Southern California.  Ants herd these for the honeydew that they
secrete.  

There are a few solutions.  If you get rid of the ants, beneficial
insects will eat the bugs.  If the only way that the ants can get into
the tree is via the trunk, some diazinon granules at the base of the
trunk will take care of the ants.  There are other less toxic methods
such as putting Vaseline on the trunk.  You could then just hope for
beneficial insects to show up or mail order some lacewings.

Another solution is to spray the undersides for the leaves with an
agricultural soap or oil.  (I've just starting using the oils and am
fairly well satisfied, but they are difficult to find.)  You will have
to respray periodically and you will never have 100% control with
either method.  

I have lemon tree (more like a bush) that is 7 or 8 years old and it
always has some sort of insect problem.  Mostly I just ignore it
unless it gets really bad.

Jim
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Florist Chain in Canada
Date: 30 Sep 92 18:43:18 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <1992Sep29.122004.1159@ifi.uio.no> harbirk@ifi.uio.no (Harbir Singh Kohli) writes:
>I am wondering if there is a some flower shop/chain which does 
>home deliveries in Mississauga(I can never spell it right)ONT, 
>it is just outside Toronto, and will accept orders over the phone 
>and charge to a credit card?

Just about any florist shop will do this.  Ie: you could call
information for Toronto, and ask the operator for the number of
a good florist ;-)

Mississauga is a pretty large place - they'll have literally hundreds
of florists, and many Toronto florists will deliver there too.

You could try asking a florist local to you, chances are they're connected
into one of the (many) international "flower by wire" organizations.  This
is going to be a lot cheaper, with long distance calling rates being
as they are etc.

Ie: FTD (amongst others) covers Canada.

As far as chains go, "Fine's Florists" (I only know the one in Ottawa)
will deliver in Toronto - in fact, anywhere. And they're one of the
best chains.

["Just outside Toronto" is a trifle misleading.  Mississauga is
really (but perhaps not officially) part of Metro Toronto - one
vast metropolitan area.  It is officially part of "GTA" (Greater
Toronto Area)]

>Also if there is anyone who knows about some cheap, places to stay
>in Mississauga, I will be very grateful for that too. 

How about the person you're sending the flowers to? ;-)

There's *lots* of hotels near Toronto airport (which is virtually
*in* Mississauga), but I wouldn't consider them "cheap".  You might. 
A travel agent will have a list of all hotels in the area plus prices.
Until recently, I lived in Toronto, so the hotels there weren't of much
interest, so I hesitate suggesting a specific one.  Tho, depending
on where your friend is, the Delta (I think it's part of the Delta
chain) at Mississauga Road and the 401 highway may be most convenient.
(and only 10-15 minutes from the airport by taxi)
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: pharvey@quack.sac.ca.us (Paul Harvey)
Subject: Re: West Coast Questions
Organization: The Duck Pond public unix: +1 408 249 9630, log in as 'guest'.
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 01:51:11 GMT

In article <1aq1k6INNsno@stanley.cis.Brown.EDU> 
GE777009@brownvm.brown.edu (Avant Gardens) writes:
>And if anyone knows of a particularly helpful guide, I'd
>appreciate the title.

Growing Vegetables West of the Cascades, Steve Solomon, Sasquatch Books,
Seattle, WA, (206) 441-5555, 1989, ISBN:0-912365-20-X
From: ajw@dcs.ed.ac.uk (Amanda Welsh)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: trying to save cactus
Date: 5 Oct 92 12:45:06 GMT
Organization: Edinburgh University, Department of Computer Science

Thanks to everyone who replied to me about saving these cacti. I seemed to
have made a few mistakes in the first thing I did:

     1) by putting these things straight into soil instead of leaving the
	wounds to dry out(I must admit to being not much of a cacti expert).  
     2) I'm not sure that the soil is particularly sandy, its just standard 
        potting compost.
     3) Ehhhm (embarrassment) I don't even think that they are cacti, but
        succulents -- being a bit short on spines.

Despite my ignorance they seem to have survived so far. My question is now
should I try to rectify mistakes 1 and 2 by -- I can't really use the word
"uprooting here" -- lifting them off the soil, letting them dry out and later
repotting them in a more sandy soil?  My feelings are against this because a)
they could probably do with being left alone and b) the big one, I suspect
doesn't really have a wound, just the roots broken off.

I'm a bit confused about watering. Its my natural instinct to water
*everything* (in the plant world that is) -- I've only just managed to train
myself not to overwater everything. I gave these things a bit of water when I
first potted them -- was that a mistake? Should I let them dry out now?, more
generally should I let my mother-in-laws tongue (sansiveria?) and christmas
cactus dry out over the winter too? 

Apologies for all these questions -- but I do know that I tend to overwater
plants.

thanks,

-- Amanda Welsh, Department of Computer Science, University of Edinburgh.
(ajw@dcs.ed.ac.uk)
From: jhb@calmasd.prime.com (Jim Bishop)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Bulb suggestions
Date: 2 Oct 92 18:04:12 GMT
Article-I.D.: calmasd.1992Oct2.100412.828
Organization: -

In article <1992Oct01.120034.26574@bmerh85.bnr.ca>, 
sjane@bmers248.bnr.ca (sjs) writes:
> In article <27705@nntp_server.ems.cdc.com> joannek@ems.cdc.com writes:
>>I'm glad someone else really likes the minor bulbs.  
>> [part deleted] Another that my mother used to have, but I have only seen in 
>>one catalog (Mich. bulb) is Star of Bethlehem.  Its a lovely white flower on 
>>a multibranched 9" stem.  
> 
> Cruikshank's Star of Bethlehem has the latin name Ornithogalum umbellatum &
> you can get 100 for $32.00 Canadian.  

Does anyone know about the chill requiremennts of ornithogalum?  I
planted some last year and the year before.  The ones 2 years ago
bloomed well.  Last year they (the ones from the previous year and new
ones I planted last fall) grew OK but I only had a few spindly blooms. 
I thought maybe the snails had eaten out the blooms, or perhaps the
rains had knocked them over.  Anyway, I was redigging the bed this
summer and pulled out a pot full of perfectly shaped large (2 inch
dia.) bulbs.  I've saved these and plan on replanting.  However, I
wonder if the reason I didn't get many blooms was because we don't get
enough winter chill for most "Dutch" bulbs.  I thought ornithogalum
was African in origin and didn't need a winter chill, but maybe I'm
incorrect on this.  I noticed that several of the ornithogalums that
were left in the ground have already sprouted.  (I may have o.
arabicum, not umbellatum.  Mine has a waxy black bead at the center of
a white flower.) Suggestions?

Also, my Peruvian scilla's didn't bloom well last year either.  The
bulbs are right at the surface, so I can see that they are doing well.
I've divided the original plant (bulbs) several times and tried them
is different places in the yard (full shade, partial shade, full sun).
None bloomed well this year.   In spite of the name the plant is from
the Mediterranean and when in bloom is spectacular with a 10-18 stalk
with a dome of blue flowers with yellow centers.  Sunset lists my zone
in the acceptable zone list.

Thanks for any suggestions,

Jim
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: ljz57640@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (The Nonentity )
Subject: Re: Cosmos Sensation reached 9 feet!
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 23:05:17 GMT

sundare@watson.ibm.com (C. Sundaresan) writes:

>I do love the flowers but the height is a little daunting.  Has anyone
>tried cutting them back at some stage in their growth (like mums)?

It has been my experience that 'pinching' back the terminal stems (i.e. the
very ends of the stems where the new growth is coming in) and the out-bloomed
flowers tends to keep the plants looking more 'bushy' and not as tall.  Just
be careful that you don't pinch off too much at once.

>How about the shorter varieties? Are the flowers as nice?

Yes!  There are many varieties of absolutely gorgeous flowering plants that
don't get to be more than 8-12 inches tall.  You could try Verbena, Wax
Begonias, Lobelia, Alyssum, Torenia, as well as several varieties of Petunias
and Impatiens (I believe they are called 'Elfin' Impatiens).  Of course,
these are just the annuals; there are also some really nice low-growing
perennials as well... for a more complete list, why not try looking in the
"Taylor's Guide" for Annuals and Perrenials.

>I've saved seeds, with thoughts of starting some more next spring
>(I figure the winter freeze will kill the seeds but does anybody
>out there know for sure?)

Winter freeze does kill a lot of different seed types, but there are a few
that need cold to germinate. (Anyone know which ones?)

>I have to grow *some* of these tall cosmos again, so I can continue
>to meet my neighbors as they walk past and ask me what these huge
>ferns with the flowers are....

>Chris Sundaresan 

Cosmos *are* gorgeous, aren't they?
Hope I could be of a little help...
--------------------------------
Laura J. Zurawski                     email address: ljz57640@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu
University of Illinois                           
Ornamental Horticulture Student       *****HUG A TREE TODAY*****
From: annie@cs.swarthmore.edu (Annie Fetter)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Saving Tomato Plants from Certain Demise?
Date: 4 Oct 92 22:20:55 GMT
Organization: Visual Geometry Project, Swarthmore College, PA

Way back in the spring I planted two innocent-looking cherry tomato plants -
Sweet 100's, near some of my landlord's prize exotic plants.  Now the tomatoes
are about 12 feet in length, and spread all over the place :-)  There are
still hundreds of blossoms, and about 70 little greens tomatoes starting to
ripen.  My problem is this:  I live outside Philadelphia, and it is starting to
get cold at nite - down in the low 40's - and there's a chance of frost soon.
Is there any way I can move these plants, or just propogate, or do something
so that I don't just have to pull them up and throw them out?  Seems a shame to
waste such healthy, productive specimens.  Of course, my landlord agrees with
none of this, as he's even allergic to tomatoes....

Thanks for any suggestions!

	-Annie


-- 
   Annie Fetter, Resident Jock   | '85 FJ1100, '89 Olmo, '88 Schwinn Traveller
        The Geometry Forum       |  DoD #0041, AMA #559977, AT&T 215/328 8225
     annie@cs.swarthmore.edu     |  "Pantyhose are the feminine equivalent of
   afetter1@cc.swarthmore.edu    |  tucking your t-shirt into your underwear."
From: unixcorn@dekalb.dc.peachnet.edu (Madelyn T. Gould)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: does pine-bark kill azaleas ??
Date: 1 Oct 92 00:41:49 GMT
Organization: DeKalb College, Clarkston, Ga.

In article <1992Sep30.125322.90237@vaxc.cc.monash.edu.au> che358w@vaxc.cc.monash.edu.au writes:
>Hi,
>   This weekend we covered our front yard with pine-bark. It looks great and
>we were feeling pretty pleased with ourselves when someone told us that pine-
>bark kills azaleas. Is this true ?
>

Here in Atlanta, GA, home to millions of azaleas, almost everyone
mulches the base of their azaleas with pine bark nuggets.  They 
thrive.  Don't cover the entire stem structure with nuggets, leave
a little space around the trunk and remember to fertilize at the 
appropriate time as the decomposition of wood removes nitrogen (
I think that's right) from the soil.  
Good luck!


-- 

unixcorn  (alias Madelyn Gould) @dekalb.DC.PeachNet.EDU

There's a unicorn in the garden and he's eating a lily.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens