HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: louise@pravda.cc.gatech.edu (FA)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: aligning after replacing rack and pinion?
Date: 12 Oct 92 17:05:39 GMT
Reply-To: louise@pravda.cc.gatech.edu (Louise Penberthy)
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology


Is it necessary to realign the front end of a FWD car after
replacing the rack and pinion assembly?  One place says yes,
although they can get it pretty close to what it was without
realigning.  The other place says no, that nothing they do will
change the alignment.  However, I have reason to be wary of the
mechanic at the second place (he diddled around with a carb
rebuild two years ago, not fixing the problem and not seeming to
know he wasn't fixing the problem -- now I rebuild my carb
myself).  Also, both the Chilton's and the Haynes say that, in
order to get the rack and pinion out to replace it, the left tie
rod has to come out.  So I should think you would have to redo
the front alignment.

How I loathe having someone else work on my car but me -- but
this is more than I want to attempt just now.  :-(

BTW, the car is an '85 Omni, 2.2L, auto, 70K.

Thanks.

-- Louise Penberthy

Louise Penberthy                |  "A student came to me with a desire to know
College of Computing/ Georgia   |   the time, and I told her how to make a 
Tech/ Atlanta, GA 30332         |   watch."
louise@pravda.cc.gatech.edu     |        -- Chris, NEXP:Northwest Passages
From: frank@marvin.contex.com (Frank Perdicaro)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Drivetrain Vibration
Keywords: auto, repairs
Date: 9 Oct 92 17:21:28 GMT
Organization: Xyvision Design Systems

In article <1992Oct9.140149.10604@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> jimo@navaho.uucp (25656-o'keefe) writes:
>
>Episode 3 of my drivetrain vibration saga.
>
>** I'll spare everyone the gory details of what I've tried so far! **
>
>ANY GM GURUs out there?

I am not a guru, but I have a few small thoughts.  On a 2 ujoint
setup, as I understand it, the idea is to keep the pinion shaft
parallel (in two planes) to the output shaft of the transmission.
With the tranny-driveshaft-pinion in a line, there should be no 
vibration other than that caused by bad balance.

Now execute the most common circumstance, lower the pinion, but keep
it parallel in 2 axes.  Up to a certain angle (caused by a certain 
amout of drop), the irregularities caused by ujoints give "acceptable"
vibration.

Now remove a constraint - let the pinion go off parallel.  This can be
cause by loose axel bits, or springs that cannot handle the tourque 
applied, or all sorts of other things.  One gets vibration.  And wear
of those ujoints.  Cure this with new axle bits, and ladder bars.

If we remove yet another constraint, continuity of the drive shaft, 
there are yet more problems.  The problems are similar, but more
confusing.  Lets say that applied torque causes the center carrier to
deflect, and the axel to rotate.  Each of these causes vibration; the
sum of them causes more vibration, perhaps in a non-linear way.  
Add to this the fact that there are twice as many shaft to ujoint
joints, each possibly causing misalignment, and you get sick.

In some
You could have a deflecting axle, or hanger bearing hanger.  Make 
sure the hanger bearing is in exactly the right plane(s), and stiffen
it.  Perhaps replace the hanger bearing while you are at it.

You could go crazy, and replace two of your ujoints ( if you have 4 )
with a real constant velocity joint, or at least one with a higher
frequency than the standard ujoint.  Find one with large, prime, number
of lobes ( 7 ? ) and you should push any harmonics to about the 300mph
range, effectivly eliminating them.

Try to have fun with this problem

-- 
	 Frank E Perdicaro, Systems Admin, etc.		Xyvision Color Systems
      Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.		101 Edgewater Drive
   inhouse: frank@marvin, x5572				Wakefield MA
outhouse: frank@contex.com, 617-245-4100x5572		018801285
From: jim@mwhhlaw (James P. Cavanaugh III)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: fan / heater chev
Date: 16 Oct 92 11:34:29 GMT
Organization: Martin Wade Hartley & Hollingsworth

In article <1992Oct15.153750.14249@cbfsb.cb.att.com>  
benj@cbnewsb.cb.att.com (ben.e.jones) writes:
> 1977 chev ....heater fan won't run......been some time getting back
> on the air with this problem ...but been on swing shifts..didn't
> have time to try to fix / replace my fan switch...well I went
> and got a replacement for 14.00 and replaced the (maybe bad one)
> not too big of a job...happy with myself that it went so well,
> except the damn fan still won't come on.....have the right replace-
> ment for it ....so now Iam back to square one....started to look
> at terminals coming off the heater motor assy under the hood,the
> one I looked at didn't look good ...so I'll try cleaning all the
> terminals ...whole bank of them in a orange terminal block assy.
> Sorry I didn't get right on it Al so u would have a answer but
> working all hours made it hard to take the time....
> will let u know what I find...hate to take it in and have the guy
> clean some terminals....will take it in only if cleaning all 
> elect terminals don't clear the problem....cause I still have the
> same problem with my Toy.....could be that resistor on the motor
> assy on the Toy .....starting to get cold so I have to get my ...
> in gear .talk at u later.
> Ben
> 

	Last time I had one go out, a GM blower motor was an on-the  
-shelf item in any decent auto parts store.  This tells me that the  
motors quit with some frequency.  I'll assume that you have already  
checked the fuse for the blower.  
	The blower motor in my 63 Cadillac once seized up and would  
blow fuses as fast as you could put them in.  (To my chagrin, the motor  
at the parts stores only fit back to 64, so I had to pay the Cadillac  
boys for mine - $$$).

Jim Cavanaugh
From: QXF1@psuvm.psu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Speed rated tires
Date: 14 Oct 92 02:23:56 GMT
Article-I.D.: psuvm.92287.222356QXF1
Organization: Penn State University

Could anyone tell me what's the major difference between speed rated tire
and that without speed rate?  Does it tend to have better grib?  Does it
tend to be made of softer compound and have lower tread wear index?

Ching
From:  (Eric Youngblood)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Calling F-body Suspension experts
Date: 8 Oct 92 22:27:21 GMT
Reply-To: Peon w/o Email priv (Eric Youngblood)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Richardson, Tx

In article <1992Oct08.162436.26312@i88.isc.com>, dye@i88.isc.com (Ken R. Dye ) writes:
|> In article <5608@ssc-bee.ssc-vax.boeing.com> simnet@ssc-vax.boeing.com (Mark R Poulson) writes:
|> >In article <1992Oct02.194027.19898@bnr.ca>,  (Eric Youngblood) writes:
|> >> I am looking for anyone who knows how to tune 69-81 firebird/camaro
|> >> suspensions. The problem I am having is during the first 60 feet of
|> >> acceleration.  The right rear tire breaks loose while the left rear
|> >> does not.  I understand that the torque from the engine loads down
|> >> the left rear wheel and unloads the right wheel reducing its grip.
|> >
|> >A very common problem. The things to do would be:
|> >
|> >	Remove the rear antisway bar (very important).
|> 
|> 	why remove the very thing that can help your problem?  You
|> can adjust the rear bar's links (down on left, up on right) to create
|> a static pre-load that will add pressure to your right wheel!
|> 
|> --Ken
|> -- 

Interesting idea. I'm not sure the links are adjustable (other than bending)
but have new urethane bushings to reduce deflection. I am thinking that the
car is weight biased on the left side : (please correct any logic flaws)

1. A RWD solid axle vehicle torques the rear axle, thus loading the left wheel
   and unloading the right wheel.

2. The driver sits on the left side. (adding 150-200 lbs to left side suspension)
   Estimate 70% left & 30% on the right side. --> ~115 lbs more on left side.

3. The battery sits on the front left side (This particular fbody anyway, 40lbs?)

Adding items 2 & 3 above thats about 155 lbs before touching the gas! 
The reason I bring this up is due to the behavior of the car during a recent rain
storm.  Light acceleration on wet pavement produced right wheel spin very easily.

I guess I need to find the static weight on each wheel to get an idea how
the weight is distributed accross the suspension. I suspect it will show that
more weight rests on left front and least on the right rear.

Any suggestions on how to do this?

$0.02
Ericy
From: jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Datsun 280Z V8 Conversion
Date: 14 Oct 92 08:19:22 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.

dormont@spot.Colorado.EDU (DORMONT WILLIAM  M) writes:

>I have a friend who is thinking about putting a Chevy 350 V8 in his 1977 280 Z.
>Does anyone have any info or experience with this conversion?  Please post
>answers or email me.

1)	Get the book on V-8 conversions from "Jags that Run" and follow all the 
	instructions to a tee.  Don't even consider doing it unless you are 
	willing to do the work to set the engine back against the firewall.

2) Join the Z-car mailing list (z-car-request@dixie.com) and ask questions
	of others who are doing the same thing.

	John
-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC               |Interested in high performance mobility?  
Performance Engineering Magazine (TM) |
Marietta, Ga                         |Interested in high tech and computers? 
jgd@dixie.com                        |Write me about PE Magazine
Need Usenet public Access in Atlanta?  Write Me for info on Dixie.com.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: General question re: old Ford trucks ('70-79)
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 7 Oct 92 18:17:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> I'm looking around to buy an OLD Ford truck.  Does anyone know
-> offhand what year ford switch their trucks from leaded to unleaded?

 Well, Ford didn't recommend leaded gas when it came out in the late
'40s, but about '52 or so they said it would be OK, except lead buildup
on the exhaust valves would cause burned valves eventually.

 Oh.  You mean thirty years after that, when they started taking the
lead back out?  Depends on what load rating the truck was.
                                                                                                                    
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: njcs@cbnews.cb.att.com (jose.a.matos)
Subject: TURBO COUPE'S OUT THERE?
Organization: AT&T
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 14:50:28 GMT
Keywords: COUPE

I own a 1988 TURBO COUPE for about six months now, and think it's the best
machine ever made to race down the Jersey roadways.  

I'm writing this article to see how many people out there are interested in
forming a semi-club over the email system.  This semi-club will be just for
us proud TURBO COUPE owner and nobody else (because there is no other car to 
compare).  

I think it's a good idea because, we can help each other with problems that
our car may have or even ideas on how to inprove on a good thing.


It costcbnews hing but alittle bit of time.
From: fred@network.ucsd.edu (Fred Criscuolo)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: RFI Problem
Date: 13 Oct 1992 13:41:52 -0700
Organization: University of California, San Diego
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: network.ucsd.edu
Keywords: RFI

I recently upgraded the ignition system on my 70 Firebird by installing
an MSD ignition and coil, and a set of Accel 8.8 Suppressor wires.        
Unfortunately, I'm now getting interference through the stereo,  A lot on
AM, less on FM, and none on tape.  The original coil had a 3 micro Farad
capacitor mounted near the +  terminal it the wasn't connected.  Any ideas
on what to add to filter out this interference.
Please e-mail me your suggestions and I'll post a summary later. 
Thanks in advance.

Fred Criscuolo
fcriscuo@ucsd.edu


-- 
Fred Criscuolo
fcriscuo@ucsd.edu                             (619) 546-4083
From: danapple@vicor.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: SUBARU 4WD LOCK-UP
Date: 7 Oct 92 17:46:17 GMT


> peterson@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Rodney Peterson) writes:

> I HAVE AN '87 SUBARU THAT HAS 4 WHEEL DRIVE.  RECENTLY
> THE 4WD HAS BECOME EXTREMELY!!! DIFFICULT TO DISENGAGE.
> IT ENGAGES READILY AND EASILY BUT IS A REAL BEAR TO GET
> OUT.
> 
> I TOOK IT TO THE DEALER TO LOOK AND HE TOLD ME MY PROBLEM
> STEMS FROM UNEVEN TIRE WEAR ON THE FRONT AND REAR TIRES, THAT
> A SLIGHT DIFFERENCE IN THE TIRE SIZES, DUE TO WEAR, CAUSES
> THE TRANSMISSION TO LOCK-UP.  MY CARE HAS 71,000 MILES AND
> I HAVE RECENTLY REPLACE THE FRONT SET OF TIRES AND NOT THE BACK.
> BUT TO HAVE THE 4WD LOCK-UP TO THE POINT OF HAVING TO JUMP ON THE
> LEVER TO GET IT BACK OUT??!!
> 
Believe it.  Your Subaru probably doesn't use a center differential,
so differences in the rotational speed between front and rear can
cause "binding" in the transfer case.  By having different size tires
on the front and back (worn tires are smaller than new tires) you are
causing a difference in the angular velocity of your front and back
axles.  The transfer case doesn't have a mechanism for dealing with
this.

Although Subaru says you can use 4WD on pavement, you probably
shouldn't.  Use 4WD in marginal traction situations, when there will
be enough wheel slip on the pavement to avoid torqueing the transfer
case excessively.

> THANKS

> ROD PETERSON

Daniel I. Applebaum  |  danapple@vicor.com  |  1986 Celica Supra "NVR DNF"
    "When the car is airborne nothing works, the brakes don't work,
     steering doesn't work, the gas pedal doesn't work, nothing works !!"
                            --- Gerry Brinkman "Principles of Rallying" #2
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bill@iron.tandem.com (norcott_bill@tandem.com)
Subject: Re: Could This Problem Be The Fuel Pump?
Reply-To: norcott_bill@tandem.com  (Bill Norcott)
Organization: Tandem Computers, Inc.
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 19:22:20 GMT


It could be a vacuum leak or valves out of adjustment.  You should
put a vacuum gauge on the engine to rule out those possibilities.

I think the fuel pump is an electric one which is back by the gas
tank, not under the hood.  Not sure what the sound you are hearing
is, especially since you can here it when the engine is not running.

-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------|
Bill Norcott			GUARDIAN POSIX project
Tandem Computers, Inc.		
10600 N. Tantau Avenue		PHONE:  (408) 285-3253
Cupertino, CA   95014		EMAIL: norcott_bill@tandem.com


Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:14135 rec.autos:24202
From: rjwade@rainbow.ecn.purdue.edu (Robert J. Wade)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
Subject: Re: Ford Escort Problems
Date: 16 Oct 92 16:24:32 GMT
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network

In article <1992Oct13.210527.8742@aio.jsc.nasa.gov> Cessna@kn5f.jsc.nasa.gov (Mark T. Evert) writes:
>In article <1bf6t1INNf29@bigboote.WPI.EDU> jayg@wpi.WPI.EDU (Jay Giurleo) 
>writes:
>>  I own a 1986 Ford Escort.  I was speaking with a mechanic today who
>> mentioned that at around 60K miles, bad (terminal) things might
>> start happening to my engine.  Specifically, he mentioned a chronic
>> problem with timing belts.  Can someone comment on this for me? If this
>> truly is a problem, what's the best method for fixing it?
>
>Replace it...the timing belt that is.  It's really not that big a deal, 
>but it is a big deal if it breaks as your valve train will likely be 
>damaged.
>
>Mark T. Evert
>Friendswood, TX
>
>My opinions are strictly my own.

WRONG!!!!!!!!!!!!!  1986 escort engines are freewheeling...no damage when it
snaps   i know...my 86 escort timing belt snapped at 70k miles.  no damage..
just a tow to the ford dealer and $100 and i was on my way.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Oh dear oh dear... (Was Re: Carb Questions)
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1992 15:17:32 -0500

 > conversations re: carbs. Thank you, thank you for all the
 > help!
 >
 > I have another question (argh! they yelped!)
 >
 > Last Monday, right after having watched the depressing
 > trouncing of
 > Dallas by Philly, I was driving home. Car running great.
 > Then,
 > suddenly, with no warning at all! The speedometer slides
 > to the left.
 > Hell, I think. I gear down, it pops back momentarily, and
 > then resumes
 > it's downward spiral, to end at zero thereby leaving me
 > on a dark road
 > alone at one am. My worst dream realized.
 >
 > The mystery: it will start beautifully, and run, too, until
 > the car
 > begins to warm up a little (i.e. the choke begins to open),
 > and then
 > it acts as if it cannot get enough gas. If I am driving
 > it, it
 > stutters forward (I'm sitting here trying to figure out
 > how to put
 > down that jerking/rRR rRR rRR feeling/sound. I guess anyone
 > who has
 > ever run out of gas knows what I mean.) At rest, it finally
 > dies no
 > matter how much I try to preempt that with the accelerator
 > pumping.
 >
 > Anyone got a clue? I've done the spraycarbcleanerlookingfor
 > leaks, but
 > the idle is so unstable that there is really no way to
 > be completely
fuel filter.
water in the gas.
junk in the tank inlet screan.
bad fuel pump.
best of luck
From: rodder@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Jon D. Rodder)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Are cylinders in performance cars honed??
Date: 11 Oct 92 01:50:41 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin, Austin TX

In article <1992Oct2.183646.3107@mcnc.org> brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks) writes:
>In article <1992Oct1.221149.12056@cabot.balltown.cma.COM> welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty) writes:
>>In article <1992Sep30.164452.18703@ee.ubc.ca> jeffc@ee.ubc.ca (jeffrey chow) writes:
>>>  So the question to all you netters is: "Are the cylinders in performance
>>>cars honed????".  If not, why not?
>>2) back in july, i visited one of the top competition motor
>>building shops in the midwest, and talked with owner Gary Ostrich
>>while he honed out the cylinder bores in a big block GM he was
>>building for a drag racer.

Another reason to hone cylinders is piston clearance.  On my research/
race engine, each cylinder is honed to so that there is a .004 inch
(+/- .0005) clearance between the widest point of the piston (cheapie
TRW forged pistons...  have a couple of thousands taper on them :( )
and the cylinder walls.  Each cylinder is honed with respect to the
size of the piston that goes in it (not that the piston vary that much,
but .001 can mean the difference between siezing one and not).  
Maybe what the orginal poster's friend meant was that race blocks are
not rehoned--if the cylinders still have a nice crosshatch on them,
theres no need to open them up any more.


-- 
--=< Jon D. Rodder ----- rodder@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu >=-- 
    \    IRC-Op at tramp.cc.utexas.edu (Rodder)   /
     \    89 Jeep Wrangler - 258/PIECE OF JUNK!  / 
      \        79 Rx-7 - 12A/Holley 4bbl        / 
       \________67 Camaro RS - 350/4spd________/
From: R1004@vmcms.csuohio.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: GM diagnostic harness
Date: 8 Oct 92 20:00:02 GMT
Organization: CSU

In article <1992Oct8.174745.23885@hubcap.clemson.edu>
michaet@hubcap.clemson.edu (michael dale townsend) writes:
 
>
>mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw) writes:
>>. . . . .  You can do the same thing with a piece of wire and
>>the factory (Helm) shop manual.  On my GM cars I just short the
>>two appropriate pins together and the "CHECK ENGINE" light flashes
>>the error code number.
>
>>Mark
>
>Do the shop manuals tell which pins are the "appropriate" pins?
>Also, my 1977 Pontiac Grand Safari has a couple of suspicious looking
>wire harnesses under the hood.  (One is near the air-conditioner btw.)
>I didn't know that they had the diagnostic computers in cars back then.
>Does anyone have any info or ways to get info on this?  I'd like to
>capitalize on this if possible.
>Michael Townsend		michaet@hubcap.clemson.edu
>
 
 
  Yes, the manual will tell you which terminals to use.  The connectors
on a late '70s vintage car  are for diagnostic purposes but there is
no onboard computer involved - they are just taps into the car's
electrical system.  Good chance the connectors on that Safari
are orange.  Of course a factory shop manual will tell you how
to use them when trouble shooting - mine did!
 
 
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Martel               |
bob2@cua3.csuohio.edu    |  Lady luck must have been a wonderful girl
R1004@vmcms.csuohio.edu  |    -She's never been a friend of mine!
                         |                        Alan Parsons Project
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: delphys@ocean.cc.mcgill.ca (David Holmes)
Subject: Volvo 245 Turbo problems
Keywords: starting woes
Organization: McGill University
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 01:56:48 GMT

Greetings all,

A neighbour of mine owns an '84 Volvo Wagon, the 245 Turbo
and since a recent tune-"up" by someone who claimed to know
Volvo's it has been giving him some trouble with starting.
Now both of us are familiar with automotive mechanics to some
degree and do our own "work".  This however was his first
non-American car so he thought that at least until he was able
to get manuals etc he'd trust it too some third party.

The problem then:  ( the engine is the B21F )

When trying to start the car cold once has to crank it over
and then "catch it" with the throttle to get it started.  If
it starts you then have to nurse it for a minute or two.  If
it doesn't catch it'll then take 4-5 more episodes of this to
get it to the point where it will consider starting.

Outside temp and humidity don't effect things. It is a bit less
cranky when warm.

Any help in terms of problem spots that might produce this from
a B21F or even general comments on this sort of engine with
regards to weak spots or something that a bad tune-up might have
earned him would be greatly appreciated.

A solution from the "net" :) would be a great boost for the
side of computers with my neighbour by the way !!  He's not
the computer weenie that I am shall we say ;-)!

Thanks and please feel free to email me directly

--
________            __________________________                 __
        David Holmes                          McGILL UNIVERSITY
UNIX Support Group - Computing Centre         Montreal,  CANADA
email/NeXT email  delphys@CC.McGill.CA       voice  514-398-3716
                  delphys@MCGILL1.BITNET     FAX    514-398-6876
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: W10572@maccvm.corp.mot.com (Timothy Palka)
Subject: toyota 22r timing chain replacement
Organization: Motorola
Date: 15 Oct 1992 14:22:29 CDT

I have a 1983 toyota 4x4 pickup with a 22r engine that needs a new timing
chain. does any one out there have any idea what is needed to do the job.
i.e. special tools.

thanx




Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: LARRY@THEORY.PHYS.VIRGINIA.EDU (Larry Suddarth)
Subject: Headlight Replacement
Organization: DEPT. OF PHYSICS, UNIVERSITY OF VIRGINIA
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 18:22:56 GMT
X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.23

I have been thinking for a while of replacing my old headlights on my
'79 Ford Van with quartz halogen.  Is there any problem with current draw,
or any other compatibility problems that are known?  Thanks for any info.





Larry T. Suddarth			larry@virginia.edu
University of Virginia			
Physics Department			I alone am responsible for the contents
McCormick Road				of my postings and mailings.
Charlottesville, VA 22901
(804)924-6784