HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: M21605@mwvm.mitre.org
Subject: Re: Delta table saw for sale...
Organization: The MITRE Corporation, McLean VA 22102
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 12:59:13 GMT

In article <56359@olivea.atc.olivetti.com>
geoff@strobe.ATC.Olivetti.Com (Geoff Caras) writes:
 
>
>In article <1992Sep30.232647.25412@adobe.com>, bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds) writes:
> Geoff Caras writes
> > For Sale:
> > Delta Tilting Arbor Saw with 52" Unifence....
> > The tilting arbor saw looks similar to the contractor's saw except
> > the entire table surface and wings are cast iron (HEAVY!)....
> > It has a 1.5 horse motor and is wired for 220...
> > I had a mobile base custom made for it by HTC ...
> > If the price is right I will throw in the blade that is on it now, an
> > 80 tooth carbide blade (very, very smooth)...
> > $1100.00 or best offer.
>
>Bennett writes:
>
> I haven't seen this saw, so I can't comment directly on its value.
> For comparison purposes Delta's 10" Tilting Arbor cabinet saw,
> w/ cast iron wings and 52" Unifence is about $1220 new (out of state
> mail order including freight). The mobile base is $170.
>
> For the extra $290 you get:
>        1) A new machine with full warranty
>        2) 2 HP 220 volt motor
>        3) Magnetic starter
>        4) Fully enclosed base instead of an open stand
>        5) Angle stops adjustable from above the table top
>
> You do give up:
>        1) $290 ($120 if you don't need the mobile base)
>        2) The carbide blade (used)
>
> The cabinet saw also has T slots, I don't know if Mr. Caras' does or not.
> Again, I'm not flaming Mr. Caras, nor commenting on whether this is a
> good deal or not. I'm simply providing a point of reference.
>
>***********************
>
>Thank you bennett for completely undermining my post, if you read just
>a little into it the price was 1100 or best offer.
>
>So thank you for your point of reference, do you read all the postings
>and rebut them?
>
>I am willing to deal on the price of the saw, I have invested over $1800
>into it you can always deal the price down, but not up. Get it?
>
>Geoff Caras
>
>igneous@netcom.com         voice - 408.475.8194              FAX - 408.475.8193
>The Igneous Group          Software Project Management   Design   Documentation
>                           1744 Foster Court     Santa Cruz, CA      95062-1741
I can't help but add my two cents here.  Price is only one parameter.
It is also the last thing to consider.  First one should consider condition
and quality.  With a Delta quality is very much dependent on when and where
it was made.  Delta quality has fluctuated considerable over the last 20
years.  Likewise, the Tiawanese made Delta tools speak for themselves.  So,
for example, if Mr. Caras's saw is a US made Delta in mint condition from
1970, it would be worth more than a new one.  In any purchase, be it
this table saw or something else, if you first compare price, you will end
up screwing yourself.  First choose what you want, then negotiate the best
price.  If you can't afford what you want, save up.  Instant gratification
will only lead to disillusionment.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: guido@blink.att.com (Guido Bertocci)
Subject: Re: New toy
Organization: AT&T
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 13:55:36 GMT

pauld@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com (Paul Davis) writes:

>Alex Kilpatrick (fkilpatr@afit.af.mil) writes

>> I've heard of this type of "dual-mode" orbital sander, but I've never
>> actually seen one (or at least I was never aware of it).  Can someone
>> refer me to a common brand sander that does this?

>I have an el-cheapo Black and Decker that can be switched between orbital and
>straight-line.  It makes a terrible racket in either mode and actually sands better 
>when it's not turned on.  It cost about $30 five years ago; the Porter Cable 
	   ^^^
>Speed Bloc I bought for $49 two years ago is infinitely better.

>I keep the B&D to loan to people I don't know well.

When I read this I couldn't help but laugh since my own oribital sander 
has the same properties.  Like many thousands of people, I made the
mistake of buying a Sears sander.  In either orbital or straight-line
mode very little sanding occurs.  After a while, I became convinced
that oribital sanders were totally worthless and just did finish sanding
by hand.  It wasn't until several years later when a professional boat
builder was working on my boat after it had been rammed,
that I actually saw a sander that could sand.  After fiberglassing,
he whipped out a Rockwell sander and the first thing I noticed was
it took a second or so to wind up to speed.  Then when he put it against
my boat I could actually see dust come off.  This was almost a 
religious experience :-).   My sander had this
curious property that when brand new it sounded like the bearings were
about to seize and vibrated my hand into numbness without sanding.  
The only plus was that my sander almost never needed to have the dust bag 
emptied. :-).

The Sears sander is so useless that I can't even get myself to loan it
out.

Now I use a Bosch random orbit sander that works as advertised.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: fkilpatr@afit.af.mil (Freeman A. Kilpatrick)
Subject: Re: New toy
Organization: Air Force Institute of Technology
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 02:51:57 GMT

patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie) writes:

>The unit has a merely adequate amount of power. This is not one you want
>to put a lot of pressure on. With the sheet of paper supplied with the
>unit, it put a nice finish on a belt-sanded fir 4x4 very rapidly. It's
>an orbital sander (though it doesn't say so), but that's the only mode
>of operation - you can't shift to straight line sanding.

I've heard of this type of "dual-mode" orbital sander, but I've never
actually seen one (or at least I was never aware of it).  Can someone
refer me to a common brand sander that does this?

ak
-- 
Alex Kilpatrick  fkilpatr@afit.af.mil  
"There are also persistant rumors that IBM will soon offer a hard-disk drive, 
an expensive accessory that only a businessman would want..."
--- Popular Computing, December 1981
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: Steve.Anton@bbs.oit.unc.edu (Steve Anton)
Subject: old table saw
Organization: Extended Bulletin Board Service
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 13:15:58 GMT


I am also looking for an old table saw that doesn't have to work.  Any old
and/or discarded table saws out there?


--
   The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the University of
     North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Campus Office for Information
        Technology, or the Experimental Bulletin Board Service.
           internet:  bbs.oit.unc.edu or 152.2.22.80
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: kakazu@theory.TC.Cornell.EDU (Gary Kakazu)
Subject: Recommendations for random orbital sander
Reply-To: kakazu@cornell.edu
Organization: Cornell Info Tech
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 01:02:22 GMT

Does anyone have any recommendations for a good random orbital sander?

Thanks,
Gary
From: gerryk@ulysses.East.Sun.COM (Gerry Krajenka)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Window glazing
Date: 5 Oct 1992 14:52:16 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems
Distribution: world
Reply-To: gerryk@ulysses.East.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: ulysses.east.sun.com



Use the stuff that comes in the caulking tub, easyer and will last as long...

the hardest thing was removing the old glazing on the window, I used a 
heating gun to soften it up and scrap the glazing off.. I did crack
two windows though from the heat....

Gerry
From: pauld@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com (Paul Davis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Miscellaneous Questions...
Date: 5 Oct 92 16:29:04 GMT
Organization: Hewlett Packard - Boise, ID

Rob Robason (robason@fc.hp.com) writes
> I have a 1/2" mortising attachment for my press but recently busted
> the tip off the bit.  Has anyone busted a 1/2" mortise chisel lately
> that would sell the bit cheap?

Woodworker's Supply of New Mexico offers a 1/2" mortising bit for $11.95.
Grizzly seems to offer the bit and chisel both for $9.50 (the catalog is 
unclear about what is included).  Where you thinking of something cheaper
than this?
From: arien@menlo.cadre.com (Arien Yung)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Earthquake gadget
Date: 29 Sep 92 00:00:05 GMT
Article-I.D.: menlo.1992Sep29.000005.17002
Organization: Cadre Technologies Inc., Menlo Park Operation


I am not sure whether this is the right newsgroup to ask this question but I am 
desperate to look for help.  In Bay Area, there is a house improvemnt show called 
House Dr.  A short while ago, I saw that program talking about a gadget (Japanese made) 
which is used to secure a bookcase against the wall for earthquake safety. That 
gadget is something like a L bracket but with some spring loaded with it; ie. it allows
the bookcase to move along with the earth movement instead of tightly bolted against
the wall.  Has anybody heard of it or using it?  I couldn't find it in the local 
hardware stores (Home Depot, ACE, Orchard Supply).
Any pointers to purphase this gadget is greatly appreciated.

Arien Yung
arien@cadre.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: dnsurber@lescsse.jsc.nasa.gov (Douglas N. Surber)
Subject: How do I bend an oak 4x4?
Organization: Lockheed Engineering and Sciences
Date:  2 Oct 92 14:40:07 GMT


I want to make two curved 4" diameter beams, 80" long. They will have a
smooth circular arc 4" high in the center relative to the ends. If I
could remember enough geometry I would tell you what the radius of the
bend was. I would like to use white oak. Any suggestions would be
welcome.

My current plan is to start with a square 4x4, cut it to an octagonal
cross section, bend it to the correct arc, and then smooth it into a
round cross section.

I am kind of worried about bending an oak 4x4. Is this something I can
do at home or is it best left to "trained professionals"?  How much 
force is it going to take to bend this sucker?

I plan to use an old piece of PVC drain pipe for a steam box.  I will
build a form and use a strap clamp to pull the thing into shape.  I will
have to protect the strap from the heat and sharp corners (spacer
blocks).  Can I generate enough force to bend the beam?  Am I creating
some kind of bomb that will result in this big piece of oak bounding
about the shop with no respect for life and limb? Is there a better
way?

Now that I have this curved octagonal beam, how do I make it round? I've
never seen a 2" roundover bit for a router and I don't have a shaper.
I'm not very good at wielding sharp tools freehand so I would like
something requiring less dexterity than a spokeshave.

Suggestions, comments, and guffaws appreciated.

Douglas Surber
Lockheed
Houston, TX

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: doshay@ursa.arc.nasa.gov (David Doshay)
Subject: Re: Nominal descriptions (was:developed vs rated hp
Keywords: lies
Organization: NASA-Ames Biocomputation Center
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 00:34:18 GMT

I have a steel storage building that is 9'3" by 13'3" --> 10' x 14'

This used to be a big problem with stereo equipment too. Peak power was
commonly advertised instead of r.m.s., or rms was advertised, but it was
from 1kHz to 10kHz at 20% distortion. I even recall seeing stereo ads
listing 1000 watts in big print followed by small print stating it was
instantanious peak power, meaning you could get exactly one pulse that
size out of it. But finaly the Govt started insisting on honest advertising,
and now everybody lists rms power and lists the frequency response and the 
distortion level.

************************ SOAPBOX ON WARNING *****************************
maybe someday soon we will get a govt that is based upon honesty, and
then ............. oh I'll just shut up now

************************ SOAPBOX OFF ************************************

David		doshay@soma.arc.nasa.gov

The thought police insist I tell you:
my thoughts, not NASA's
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Dangers of sawdust + electric heat.
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 92 13:37:34 GMT
Keywords: Heating coil, sawdust

In article <5598@ssc-bee.ssc-vax.boeing.com> simnet@ssc-vax.boeing.com (Mark R Poulson) writes:
>I'm going to add some electric heat to my shop soon and I was wondering if
>anyone has heard of any dangers of using forced air electric heaters in an
>environment with sawdust. These heaters have heating coils that glow red when
>in use and I'm worried about sucking airborne dust over those coils.

I used one in my shop for a few years now. I'm working in a one car garage
with no dust collector. Your mileage.....

patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | If you have a tank which can move and communicate,
George Patterson -  |   but which cannot shoot, essentially what you have
                    |   is a sixty-five ton portable radio.
                    |                Fort Bragg School of Armour
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: SYSGAM@SUVM.SYR.EDU (Glenn A. Malling)
Subject: Re: Dangers of sawdust + electric heat.
Organization: Syracuse University
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 92 13:19:51 EDT

In article <5598@ssc-bee.ssc-vax.boeing.com>
simnet@ssc-vax.boeing.com (Mark R Poulson) writes:
 
>
>I'm going to add some electric heat to my shop soon and I was wondering if
>anyone has heard of any dangers of using forced air electric heaters in an
>environment with sawdust. These heaters have heating coils that glow red when
>in use and I'm worried about sucking airborne dust over those coils.
 
I'd worry about it too.  An airborne suspention of combustable dust
can explode.  I grew up in the mid-west where grain elevator explosions
were not uncommon.  I'm not an expert on this risk but I'd sure talk
to one before I put it in my house!
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Squeaky miter
Date: 5 Oct 92 15:52:59 GMT
Article-I.D.: hpcvaac.1992Oct5.155259.12499
Distribution: usa
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA

byennaco@divet.East.Sun.COM (Robert Yennaco - Sun BOS Software) writes:
: 
: When my miter gauge slides across the (cast-iron) surface of my table
: saw, it creates a very irritating squeak that takes all the fun out of
: the "music" of the blade cutting thru a piece of stock.  It's even more
: irritating in a cold basement during a N.E. winter.  Anybody know how
: to get rid of this?

Have you waxed the table surface? If not, that should help.

Bill
: 
: 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Tablesaws and their warranties
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 92 17:29:38 GMT

In article <1992Oct2.153859.20420@newshub.sdsu.edu> oliver@delphi (George Oliver) writes:
>Like many people in this group, I have tablesaw questions.  I am thinking
>about getting a tablesaw and am curious about how significant warranty
>periods are.

The following consists of my opinions. Others are, of course, entitled
to hold and share their own.

Personally, I do not regard a warranty as particularly important. Most
manufacturers require that the tool be either returned to them, freight
prepaid, or taken to an "authorized service center". This usually negates
any value the warranty might have to me. For example, returning my
Grizzly table saw for warranty work would run anything up to $60 each
way for shipping, depending on how much of it I have to return. Delta's
only authorized service center in New Jersey is in Jersey City. That's
a good 1.5 hour drive from here each way, so taking in a Delta saw for
warranty work takes over six hours of my time (plus Jersey City is not
an area I'd care to park my truck in).

In short, if you can't have the warranty work done in your own neighborhood,
no warranty is worth much. From that viewpoint, Sears would be the best
choice for tools!

I have heard others argue that tools will either break within the first
year or last half a lifetime. Don't know if I believe that's true in all
cases, but my experience tends to support that.

Given a choice between buying something from a manufacturer reputed to
produce a quality product and buying from an unknown, I'll choose the
former every time. If I need the warranty, I really shouldn't have bought
that tool in the first place. So, find out what you can about the quality
of AMT's tools (as you're doing) and decide on that basis, not on the
warranty period.

patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | If you always tell the truth, you never
                    | have to remember what you said.
                    |                        Samuel Clemens
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Steve.Anton@bbs.oit.unc.edu (Steve Anton)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: wood lathe
Date: 26 Sep 92 06:12:14 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Extended Bulletin Board Service

I have an old Delta lathe and would like to locate another one for parts.
Any help would be appreciated.


--
   The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the University of
     North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Campus Office for Information
        Technology, or the Experimental Bulletin Board Service.
           internet:  bbs.oit.unc.edu or 152.2.22.80
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: Delta table saw for sale...
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: ca
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 22:40:26 GMT

Geoff Caras writes
> In article <1992Sep30.232647.25412@adobe.com>, bennett@adobe.com (Bennett  
Leeds) writes:
>  Geoff Caras writes
>  > For Sale:
>  > Delta Tilting Arbor Saw with 52" Unifence...
>  > {description deleted}
>  > $1100.00 or best offer.
> 
> Bennett writes:
>  
>  I haven't seen this saw, so I can't comment directly on its value.
>  For comparison purposes Delta's 10" Tilting Arbor cabinet saw...
>  {prices and description deleted}
>  Again, I'm not flaming Mr. Caras, nor commenting on whether this is a
>  good deal or not. I'm simply providing a point of reference.


> Thank you bennett for completely undermining my post...

If my post undermined yours that's no fault of mine - I simply presented
some facts on a comparable saw at a comparable price. I specifically
made no commentary on your saw's value - I even said as much. Twice.


> if you read just
> a little into it the price was 1100 or best offer. 

I'm surprised you didn't notice that I carried over the "best offer" 
statement from your original post.


> So thank you for your point of reference, do you read all the postings
> and rebut them? 

Well, yes I do *read* all the postings, but I only rebut the ones that
I disagree with. BTW, I didn't rebut yours. I simply provided facts - 
facts which I am prepared to back up with evidence.


> I am willing to deal on the price of the saw, I have invested over $1800
> into it you can always deal the price down, but not up. Get it?

Oh George, it's you that doesn't get it. I have nothing against you or
your efforts to get the most dollar for your saw. But, how you can
complain about my presenting facts to prospective purchasers is beyond
me. People read this newsgroup for information, both on woodworking
techniques as well as which equipment to buy. I simply provided some
information which I'm sure potential purchasers appreciated. If you have
a problem with the accuracy of my information, tell me; If I'm wrong,
I'll publicly state so.

The fact that you spent over $1800 on your setup means nothing to them.
The fact that they can buy a new 1.5 HP contractor's saw, 52" Unifence,
mobile base, and 80 tooth blade for a total, including freight, of
$1136 does matter to them (granted, they do still need a table board
and they get a stamped steel left wing instead of a cast iron one, but
they're also getting unused stuff with warranties). The only thing that
matters to them is what they can get for their money from you or 
anywhere else. If your deal is a good one, my post does it no harm. 

If you want to sell your equipment to the ignorant, advertise it
somewhere else. If you want to place an ad without people commenting
on it, place it in a newspaper.


- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
Disclaimer: The statements herein are my own, not Adobe's.

"And remember this - there's no more important net.safety rule than
to wear these: asbestos suits." (Sorry Norm)

Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Sat, 26 Sep 1992 19:24:53 EDT
From:         FABY000 <FABY@NMUMUS.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Delta 12" Planer

I have owned the Ryobi 10 inch planer for about three years.  It has
worked well for me and I have not had to replace parts other than the
blades.  Blades are available from Trendlines and perhaps other
suppliers, not Ryobi originals but made by someone else.  These
repalcement blades a less expensive than Ryobi blades and work fine for
me.  Roger Barry
From: thomas@BAEPV3.NCSU.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: removing cutters and collets
Date: 29 Sep 92 14:53:09 GMT
Reply-To: thomas@BAEPV3.NCSU.EDU
Organization: North Carolina State University


Here's a recurring problem I've had many times, and have never really
solved:

After using my router, usually for an extended time, I have a very
difficult time removing the cutter and collet.  This is especially 
true when I'm using a bit with a 1/4" shank.  It usually doesn't
happen when using 1/2" shank bits.  I know that there is more force
per area on the 1/4" bit when I torque the retaining nut down the 
same as a 1/2" shank bit, but that doesn't help me solve the problem.

This happened last weekend with a 1/4" spiral cutting bit and it 
almost drove me mad getting the thing out.

BTW, my router is a PC 690, and sees its most use is a router table.


Thanks for any help anyone can provide!

Scot Thomas    thomas@bae.ncsu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: joes@jpl-devvax.jpl.nasa.gov (Joseph Stoltzfus)
Subject: Re: Plans for drafting table
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory (NASA)
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 05:58:49 GMT

Tage Frid's Book 3: Furniture Making has a plan. It's fairly
simple, won't take you 100 years to make and has useful storage.

Joe Sz.