HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: paul@pj.tmc.edu (Thorongil)
Subject: Re: reducing the agents fees
Organization: Mississippi State University ERC
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 14:01:07 GMT

>I have heard that sometimes the real estate agents involved in the
>sale/purchase of a house are willing to accept reduced fees (i.e.
>less than their 3% of list or whatever) to have the transaction
>complete.  Is this true?  How typical is it?  What are the regulations
>governing the agents' fees?  How would one negotiate this reduction
>with his/her agent effectively?

Yes it is true.  I bought a house and the agent took $1000 less on his
end of the deal so that it would go through.  As far as regulations, I 
don't know.  It surprised me when he did it since I expected the seller
to come down the $1000.

       ___   ____                                                      
       /__)   /          ^  __| ^ |\ /|  ______________________________
      / .  \_/ .        /-\(__|/-\| V | (__   paul@erc.msstate.edu     
    _______________________________________)                           
      Engineering Research Center For Computational Field Simulation   

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Broken Thermometers
From: gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 92 19:42:12 CDT
Organization: Garys' Home for Obsolete Computers

redman@plate.megatek.com (Tim Redfield) writes:

> I broke a glass thermometer last night.  Stuff went everywhere.
> This was in a bathroom with counters and floors covered with
> the ~ 1 inch tiles. It was a royal pain to get the mercury
> up, because it was so hard to see.  Some questions:
> 
>         1) Is there an easy way to clean up after an event
>            such as this?

As I recall, it's best to gently sweep the small globules together,
and then sweep the larger globs up with a dustpan.

I suppose if you want to experiment, you could try using a Rainbow-
type vacuum cleaner (or a wet-dry shop vac with a couple of gallons
of water in it) and see about sucking it up that way. There'd be a
risk of generating a little mercury vapor from the impacts with the hose 
and interior of the vacuum, though. If there's a way to set the vac
outside and feed the hose through the window, then it might work 
real well.

Wear a particulate mask, in any case.

> 	2) What is the danger associated with mercury found in 
>            thermometers?

Mercury is mercury. It's poisonous, and likes to form amalgams with
various metals (gold, silver, and platinum, to name a few--it has
good taste!) at room temperature. (That means it'll dissolve those
metals, basically.) Expend every effort you can to clean it all up.

Incidentally, using a flashlight to sidelight the areas (hold the
light at an almost horizontal angle) might make the small globs 
easier to find.

Regard it as a toxic waste, if that matters to you. (Personally,
I'd keep the stuff in a jar; sometimes, you *want* to dissolve
precious metals.)

Gary Heston, at home....
gary@cdthq.uucp
From: rrw@elden (Robert Wier)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Electric Drill Recommendation
Date: 6 Oct 92 05:15:17 GMT
Distribution: na
Originator: rrw@elden.cse.nau.edu

From article <1992Oct1.161638.23155@porthos.cc.bellcore.com>, by patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie):
> 
> If it breaks *within one year of purchase*, you get a new one. Electrical
> tools do *not* carry the famous Craftsman guarantee - only hand tools do.
> Most manufacturers give better guarantees than Sears on power tools.
> 
  Thought I'd jump in here since the distinction between hand tools and
 electrical tools has been made with regards to the warranty.  

 I go to auctions and estate sales pretty regularly.  One thing which 
 works pretty well is to bid on Sear's hand tools.  Even if they had 
 a wrench which had been left out in a field for 5 years and was so
 rusty you'd never be able to clean it up, Sears is supposed to give
 you a new one, no questions asked (although I havn't verified this
 is the way it actually works, lately).  So, if you can pick up some
 Craftsman hand tools for a nickle a wrench or so, you can exchange it
 for a brand new one...

 Just don't do it at an auction where *I* am bidding :-)

 - Bob Wier

  ---------- insert favorite standard disclaimers here ----------
                   College of Engineering
      Northern Arizona University, Flagstaff Arizona
  Internet: rrw@naucse.cse.nau.edu | BITNET: WIER@NAUVAX | WB5KXH
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,sci.chem
From: neutron@milton.u.washington.edu ()
Subject:  alkalis, acids and chemical drain openers damage to pipes
Reply-To: neutron@milton.u.washington.edu
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Distribution: na
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 1992 09:28:42 GMT

===============================================================================
	I have read that chemical drain openers are essentially of 
	two types:
		ALKALIS which cut grease 
	and     
		ACIDS which dissolve soap and hair.

	Which type may cause damage to metallic pipes?  

	I have seen two types of the common brand Drano: liquid and crystal.
	Is it true that only the crystal form may cause damage to  pipes?
	Or is it both.

	Can anybody tell me  why Crystal Drano has mixed together with the
	blue crystals some little pieces of metal?  Why some visible vapors
	can be seen when it is used?  And why is it advised in the label that
	it should be used with cold water only?  

	Any help will be appreciated.   Thanks     Ron
===============================================================================
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Square-D electrical panel
Date: 6 Oct 92 00:33:21 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <DRAND.92Oct5105712@spinner.osf.org> drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas S. Rand) writes:
>In article <1ai3duINNfk1@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> au363@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Ken Sussmann) writes:

>   In a previous article, edwards@world.std.com (Jonathan Edwards) says:

>   >Following advice here and elsewhere, I have asked the electrician on my
>   >new house construction to use a Square-D power panel instead of the cheapo
>   >GE unit the builder usually uses. And also to use all copper wire (they would
>   >use aluminium for the main feed and oven). The price for both of these
>   >upgrades is $960! Is this a reasonable price, and is it worth it???
>
>   I recently upgraded my service from 100 Amps to 200 Amps. The Square-D
>   panel (40 spaces) was about $180. 2/0 copper cable (200 amp capacity)
>   was $1.35/foot. I ran mine in conduit. For an upgrade, $960 seems way
>   out of line unless you have extremely long runs of wire. I should also
>   note that breakers are about $6 for single pole and $12 for double pole.

>The materials are on the order of $350.  The labor is a full day
>for two men.  There is also,  I believe, a permit involved.  That
>accounts for about $700 ($40/hr labor and a 10 hr day).  It wouldn't
>be hard to get to $960.  

The first poster (Jonathan) was quoted for $960 to install copper feed/stove
wire and a Square-D panel *instead* of installing aluminum feed/stove
wire and a GE.  And was wondering whether that's reasonable.

The second poster (Ken) is comparing the $960 to a "remove existing panel and
replace".

And so is the third (Douglas) (who may be realizing this, and just responding
to Ken, but it may be misleading some people).

Careful guys, compare apples and oranges ;-)

Jonathan's question is simply a matter of comparing the cost of the
aluminum + GE versus copper + Square-D.  Unless the Square-D panel
takes longer to install ;-)

I find it difficult to believe that the difference in materials price
is $960.  Unless we're talking 300 feet or so of feed wire - the feed is
probably the dominant cost.  The difference in panels is probably only
a $100 or so at most, and the stove wire likely <$50.

Maybe Jonathan's builder is like that other guy we heard about -
they don't credit for work not done, so the $960 is as if it was
a "remove and replace" instead of "instead of"..

In any event, Jonathan shouldn't bother swapping the feed cable.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
From: Krzysztof@netxsys.guild.org (Krzysztof Adamski)
Subject: Re: IN-LINE WATER HEATERS
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Date: 25 Sep 92 23:57:40 EDT
Organization: NetX Systems Inc.

From article <1992Sep23.220116.7999@adobe.com>, by pngai@adobe.com (Phil Ngai):
> In article <MARVIT.92Sep20183414@cogito.psych.upenn.edu> marvit@cogito.psych.upenn.edu (Peter Marvit) writes:
>>We have four adults in our house and our monthly bill uage bill is around
>>$20-30/mo with an ancient gas water heater (plus a gas dryer). Even if
>>saved $10/month, payback on a largish unit from Real Goods (c. $600 +
>>installation) would be quite a while (5 years).  Without going to some
> 
> I would be surprised if you saved $10/month. My calculations show my
> water heater is only costing me 50 cents per month in standing losses.
> I have never heard any claims that the non-storage devices are
> significantly more efficient outside of standing losses.
> 
> Real Goods compares storage hot water units to keeping your car
> running 24 hours a day just in case you want to go somewhere but
> I feel the analogy is rather stretched.

I think a better analogy is driving slow or flooring the gas, you will get
to your destination in either method but the second one will take a lot
more gas the the first. This is exactly what a in-line water heater does.

Krzysztof
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: This Old Lighthouse
Date: 30 Sep 92 16:26:49 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.


Why not just start up a sister show, "This Old Historic Landmark" or perhaps
"This Old Relic".  Maybe have Roy Underhill be the master carpenter (Norm
probably has his hands full already).

Dave
-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
The heart and the mind on a parallel course, never the two shall meet.
						-E. Saliers
From: amy@vineland.pubs.stratus.com (Amy McNulty)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: This Old House -- season premiere & return to London
Date: 2 Oct 92 19:10:20 GMT

In article <BvI5Av.Mrx@news.cso.uiuc.edu> tmkk@uiuc.edu (Khan) writes:
> Speaking of This Old House, when is the new season going to start?
> 
> Or has it already begun airing, and our local PBS station is simply
> retarding for some unknown reason?

The first episode in Boston will be Thursday, October 8th. YMMV, but I  
assume it starts sometime next week throughout the country.

The first project is the complete remodeling of a basic 50's-style  
ranch house.

TOH is also scheduled to go back to London (they didn't have time to  
film the completion of that project last year) on Thursday, October 22  
(or sometime that week for non-Boston folks)....

______________________________________________________________
amy_mcnulty@vos.stratus.com  OR  amy@vineland.pubs.stratus.com
Amy McNulty -- Stratus Computer, Marlboro, MA
Stratus pays me to write, but not to write this!
From: hhm@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (herschel.h.mayo)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: IN-LINE WATER HEATERS
Date: 2 Oct 92 16:21:35 GMT
Article-I.D.: cbnewsd.1992Oct2.162135.23265
Distribution: na
Organization: Chicago Home for the Morally Challenged

> >
> 
> I've used in-line water heaters when showering abroad, and I wouldn't 
> trade my tank for a truck load of the things.  Sure, you get unlimited
> hot water -- as long as you only use a trickle of it.  Otherwise, you
> get alternately boiled and frozen.  Not my idea of a good shower.
> 

I've just checked a couple of consumer magazines. They say that nearly
all problems with in-line heaters are caused by installing one that is
too small for the required flow.  One actually said that they have
LESS of a problem with mineralization!??  What gives?


                                          Larry Mayo
From: joel@ecse.rpi.edu (Joel Glickman)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Help, cant remove faucets.
Date: 5 Oct 92 13:49:12 GMT

I noticed there was an earlier thread on this topic, but it has expired.
I am trying to replace the washers on a worn-out tub faucet. I remove the
center screw holding the faucet handle to the post, but the facuet handle
will not come off.. I've tried prying, but rather than removing the facuet,
I find that I'm bending the post and cracking the handle near where it is
connected to the post.. I assume that it has corroded or rusted to the post.
Does anyone have any suggestions for getting this thing off. It seems like
my only recourse is the break it off and hope that I can get all the pieces
off the post..

Thanks for your help
-Joel
From: ahill@boi.hp.com (Andy Hill)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: House buying frustration...Result
Date: 1 Oct 92 00:12:06 GMT
Article-I.D.: mail.BvF1w6.340
Reply-To: ahill@boi.hp.com
Organization: LaserJets by Bill & Dave
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL3

sad@sei.cmu.edu (Susan Dart) writes:
> What we did was give the sellers a 24 hour ultimatum to stop their outrageous
> demands and come to agreement. This worked and now we have an agreement and
> the closing will be at the end of November and everything looks great for
> now.
> 
Not to worry you, but the fat lady ain't sung until all the signatures are
on the closing papers.  Hope they don't start wierding out on you again...
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: eldred@rrunner.jpl.nasa.gov (Dan Eldred)
Subject: Recommend lightweight chain saw
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 16:52:03 GMT

My 15 year old Poulan chain saw is about worn out so I'm starting
to search for a new one.  I cut mostly large brush so it doesn't have
to be a particularly large or powerful one, though I do appreciate
decent quality.  In particular, I'm concerned with:

	Does it start easily?
	Does it idle reliably?
	Does it wear out or break?
	Does the chain bar stay secure?
	Does the chain wear out rapidly?
	Are parts likely to be available in 10-15 years?
	Does it vibrate like crazy?	
	Does it hold together or vibrate itself apart?
	It is easy to use (well laid out, lightweight)?
	Is there an automatic oiler?  Does it work well?
	Anything else you can think of that's important.

I recall that there was a discussion on this subject a couple of months
ago, but, alas, I didn't pay attention then.  Many thanks, Dan

	Dan Eldred		eldred@rrunner.jpl.nasa.gov

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: trb@cbnews.cb.att.com (tom.balent)
Subject: Re: siding options?
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 11:15:05 GMT

In article <1493@stake.DaytonOH.NCR.COM> emolinar@stake.DaytonOH.NCR.COM (Elizabeth Molinaro) writes:
>>> Anything's better than vinyl siding!
>>
>>depends on its use -- many architects are now specifying it for fancy 
>>new custom houses, especially where non-brick colors are desired
>>
>
>        Thank you, thank you, thank you...I seemed to be the only
>        heretic who has chosen to do the dirty deed and-gasp!- go 
>        with siding 

	     .
	     .
	     .
>
>        Additional considerations may be:
>
>        Condition of your pocketbook: can you afford to maintain paint?
>                                      can you afford not too?
>                                      what are relative siding/paint costs
>                                        in the long and short term?
>                                      will you be in the house long/buyer
>                                        preferences
>
>        As I said originally, it is a tough decision:  paint is certainly
>        more "upscale" than vinyl, but there's a reason for that!!! Frankly,
>        I'd rather have a paint job done: but in looking at my section of
>        my neighborhood, or chances of living here for more than 5 more 
>        years, and buyer expectations...well, I'd rather side now and save
>        the money later, instead of paying for it later in a rebate to a
>        buyer...and have a little left over for my child's education (no
>        kids yet, but hey, we have to be forward thinking!)
>
>        Elizabeth (again)


Another thing to consider is the age of the house itself. As a number
of people have pointed out, older homes do not look good in vinyl.
If the house was built to have siding (vinyl or aluminum) then there
should be no problem with it.  But an old colonial or victorian looks
very bad in siding.

Another thing to think about when you live in an old house (mine was
built in 1855) - you are just one in a long line of people who has 
lived there and who will live there. So, you are not really an owner
you are more like a caretaker. My house was just under 100 when I was
born, and it will most likely (I hope) still be standing when I
die - therefore I feel some responsibility to take care of it and 
maintain it so that it has a long life. 

I guess it comes down to: If you don't like painting (or can't afford 
it) and you don't like tinkering with a house, then don't buy an old 
house.
From: davids@stsci.EDU (David Silberberg)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Steam heating system
Date: 2 Oct 92 20:19:51 GMT
Reply-To: davids@stsci.EDU (David Silberberg)
Organization: Space Telescope Science Institute

My house's heating system was converted from water to steam a few years 
ago by the previous owner.  A plumber was recently out to see it and 
remarked that  while converting from steam to water is common, he has
never seen a house converted from water to steam.  He said my gas bills
will be extremely high and said that there is no advantage to converting
from water to steam.  Is this true?  Is it worth converting back to water heat?

Please e-mail your responses.
Thanks,
David
--
David Silberberg			Internet: davids@stsci.edu
Space Telescope Science Institute	    SPAN: SCIVAX::DAVIDS
3700 San Martin Drive			  ATTnet: (410)516-5142
Baltimore, Maryland   21218
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: pickel@mcnc.org (Lisa C. Pickel)
Subject: Re: Gas piping question
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 16:23:15 GMT

In article <DRAND.92Sep29112532@spinner.osf.org> drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas S. Rand) writes:
>In article <12625@sail.LABS.TEK.COM> vallath@vishnu.foo.tek.com (Vallath Nandakumar ) writes:
>
>   I want to install an extension of gas pipe to my new gas
>   clothes dryer, and was wondering where I could get some
>   do-it-yourself information on it.  A book or videotape would
>   be great.  None of the DIY books I looked into had it.  Maybe
>   it is not considered a DIY job?  It is just a few feet from
>   the 1" gas pipe to my appliance.
>
>IMO,  it's not a sensible DIY job.  Hire a plumber.  Remember that
>screwing up gas can lead to your house exploding.  Screwing up
>water is pretty benign as are most electrical mistakes.

Check with your gas company.  I got quoted a rate of 57.00/hour plus
materials.  If your dryer is close to the pipe (as is mine), I bet
those guys can do the job in half an hour.

The gas company likes to help you get started in using more gas!

Lisa.
From: mcnamara@vixvax.mgi.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Alternatives to Painting Stucco?
Date: 28 Sep 92 23:02:23 GMT
Followup-To: misc.consumers.house
Organization: Management Graphics, Inc.

In article <dumic-220992132021@apamea.swarthmore.edu
>, dumic@cc.swarthmore.edu (Mark J. Dumic) writes:
> I'm looking at a house whose exterior is mainly stucco.  I know that this
> can be painted but that you are then locked into re-painting every several
> years.  Does anybody know about any new color treatments that would be more
> permanent?  Something that would penetrate and permanently bond with the
> stucco?

	In case no one has mentioned this .....  If you paint stucco you
can't "dash" it without sandblasting the paint off.  No, I don't know
what this would cost.

							Curt

****************************************************************************
Curt McNamara	(mcnamara@mgi.com)	|"The present would be full of all
Mgmt. Graphics, Inc.			|possible futures, if the past had
1401 E. 79th St.			|not already projected a pattern
Mpls., MN    55425			|upon it."  Andre Gide
****************************************************************************
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Stove exhaust (was Re: bathroom fan into attic?)
From: gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston)
Date: Sat, 26 Sep 92 19:00:55 CDT
Organization: Garys' Home for Obsolete Computers

srsmart@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (susan r. smart) writes:

> Before closing on my new house, I had the builder correct a code
> violation.  He had vented my stove into the attic above the garage,
> and I had him vent it over to a soffit vent.  After reading the thread
> on bathroom vents, however, I'm not sure the job was done correctly.
> There is certainly no "antibackflow" device; I can feel a cold draft
> all winter in the kitchen.  Also, the vent pipe in the attic (which
> is metal) goes horizontally toward the soffit and ends just above the
> soffit vent.  Should there be a turn to vent the air down through
> the soffit?  Thanks for any advice, email or posted.

Your stove should be vented directly through the roof. Your existing
vent is a code violation.

How does that guy stay in business? 

Gary Heston, at home....
gary@cdthq.uucp
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: jeske@src.dec.com (Steve Jeske)
Subject: Re: Sheetrocking Question
Organization: DEC Systems Research Center
Date: Sat, 26 Sep 92 07:09:27 GMT

In article <1992Sep23.161822.22207@dg-rtp.dg.com> eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com writes:
>In article <1992Sep18.204422.24236@mav.com>, toddi@mav.com (Todd Inch) writes:
>|> - Make sure there's wood "backing" strips nailed on in all the corners,
...
>An article I just read mentioned 'metal sheetrock clips' as a substitute for
>these nailer boards, but it didn't really explain what they were or how they
>worked.  Anybody know?

Well, given that nobody else has tried to answer this, I'll make a
stab at it.  Sometimes called "drywall clips," they are typically
used with two-stud corners, which reduce the direct thermal path to
the exterior sheathing from the inside drywall.  (So books and
manuals on superinsulation or advanced framing mention them.)  This
type of corner provides only one nailing surface (stud) to attach a
drywall edge to.  The clips provide the right-angle, for attaching
the other piece of drywall.  I've seen different varieties of the
clips (say, at Builders Square), but they are all small, maybe 1-1/2
inches long.  One type has a cross-section like a capital letter-F.
Part of the clip attaches to the stud (the "bottom" of the F), before
the drywall is attached to the stud, over it.  There is a U-shaped
piece of the clip which sticks out at right angles, the thickness of
the drywall (the "top" of the F), which the second piece of drywall
mates with.  The second drywall just slips into the U (clip, I
guess); it isn't screwed or nailed to anything at that edge.  This
really would be better with a picture, but I don't feel like drawing
in ASCII just now.  Let me know if you're still confused.
	--Steve		jeske@src.dec.com	...!decwrl!jeske