HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Table saw blade height.
Reply-To: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: na
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 92 16:40:28 GMT

Two opposing recommendations were posted recently on the blade extension
height to be used for ripping. The pamphlet "Getting the most out of your
Table Saw" (by the Delta tools people) has this to say.

"Ripping Wide Stock. Stock is considered wide when it measures at least
4 inches between the fence and the blade. Adjust the height of the ripsaw
or combination blade approximately 1/8 to 1/4 inch above the thickness
of the stock. While there seems to be some disagreement as to how the
blade should be set, the 1/8 to 1/4 inch setting is by far the safest
way to position the blade. It gives a very smooth cut. True, with 
maximum blade projection there is the least friction on the rim of the
blade and less chance of burning the workpiece. The blade also cuts
faster. But using the blade this way may cause excessive chipping of the
wood and greater exposure to the whirling blade. Most experts recommend
that the blade projection should be no more than 1/4 inch above the
stock."

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | If you always tell the truth, you never
                    | have to remember what you said.
                    |                        Samuel Clemens
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Thu, 23 Jul 1992 11:20:06 -0600
From:         BOULAN@TECHNET.NM.ORG
Subject:      Re: Grizzly Combination sander G1014
X-To:         WOODWORK%IPFWVM.BITNET@pucc.Princeton.EDU

On the other hand, Woodworkers Supply has a policy of complete customer
satisifaction. I'm sure they would have exchanged the product had you brought
it to their attention.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: pal@coonawarra.att.com (p.a.layman)
Subject: Grizzly Survey Results
Reply-To: p.a.layman@att.com
Organization: VLSI Technology Development Lab, AT&T Bell Labs
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 15:37:10 GMT


I have gone through most of the initial responses (25) and have attempted
to extract two bits of information from each response.  Firstly,
whether the respondent was influenced by the recent discussion in
this group and secondly, whether they would buy Grizzly products.
In some cases people said they would buy odds and ends from Grizzly
but never power tools and I have included these as not buying Grizzly.

56% said they were influenced by the discussion.
86% of these people said they would not buy Grizzly.
14% of these people said they may still consider Grizzly.

40% said they were not influenced by the discussion
70% of these people said they would buy Grizzly.

60% said they would not buy Grizzly.
12% said they may still consider Grizzly.
28% said they will buy Grizzly.

I'll let results trickle in for a couple more days and then post the
results to the net and complete copies of all submissions to Mr. Grizzly
(unless there are objections).

Regards,
Paul

				Influenced	Buy Grizzly
gaerts@unlinfo.unl.edu		Yes		No
equacken@encore.com		Yes		No
james.bielak@Edm.Arco.COM	Yes		No
khw@hardy.hdw.csd.harris.com	Yes		No
mauthe@bchm1.aclcb.purdue.edu	Yes		No
flanery@cs.utk.edu		Yes		No
neef@iwtmr.att.com		Yes		No
wood@marble.rtsg.mot.com	Yes		No
wvinet@library-law.usc.edu	Yes		No
tomj@monster.saic.com		Yes		No
ramos@cbnewsj.att.com		Yes		No
brian@athena.cs.uga.edu		Yes		No
tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu	Yes		Maybe
sestrich@BBN.COM		Yes		Maybe
DSROBERTS@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM Maybe		No
lharts@xenon.unm.edu		No		Maybe
smb@ulysses.att.com		No		Yes
Keith.Thompson@East.Sun.COM	No		Yes
p.a.layman@att.com		No		Yes
howardr@col.hp.com		No		Yes
finkej@rpi.edu			No		Yes
tatem@tralfamadore.csc.ti.com	No		Yes
jjilg@cs.tamu.edu		No		Yes
talaga@e5sb.osdhw.syr.ge.com	No		No
SVUPSOR@VTVM2.CC.VT.EDU		No		No

Keywords: 


-- 

Paul A. Layman (p.a.layman@att.att.com)
From: franz@cs.washington.edu (Franz G. Amador)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: finish for wood camera used outdoors
Date: 25 Jul 92 00:59:19 GMT
Organization: Computer Science & Engineering, U. of Washington, Seattle

Is there an FAQ on wood finishes?  I don't see one.  I've nearly
completed a wooden camera that I will be using outdoors where it might
get a little damp, and I need to choose a finish for it.  I'd like a
clear finish that dries hard and provides good water protection.
Going to the store leaves me amazed at the variety of finishes out
there and at a loss of how to choose.

What's the difference between varnish, shellac, lacquer, tung oil,
etc?  How does one choose between them?

All help appreciated.

Franz Amador
franz@cs.washington.edu
{rutgers,cornell,ucsd,ubc-cs,tektronix}!uw-beaver!june!franz
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: doshay@ursa.arc.nasa.gov (David Doshay)
Subject: Re: Trouble Ripping Hardwoods
Organization: NASA-Ames Biocomputation Center
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 22:10:55 GMT

In article <1992Jul24.182751.26352@slustl.slu.edu>, guy@slustl.slu.edu (Guy Smith) writes:
|> In article <2114@devnull.mpd.tandem.com> nicks@disco.UUCP (Nick Silva) writes:
|> >In article <92205.164804DMEJJ@CUNYVM.BITNET> DMEJJ@CUNYVM.BITNET writes:
|> >>I was wondering if anyone else has this problem.  Whenever I rip hardwoods
|> >>against the rip fence, the wood gets burn marks along the cut.  
|> >>.......
|> >>I would welcome any advice.
|> >>
|> A couple of other possibilities. One is that your blade and rip fence aren't
|> quite parallel. Another is that it could be the wood's fault. Sometimes
|> ripping relieves internal stress (usually drying related) which can cause
|> the kerf to close behind the blade, causing binding.

The wood can twist and warp in more ways than that, and many of those ways
will cause rubbing and burning. This kind of bending should be visible when
looking at how the wood runs along the fence.

Another thing it could be, depending upon the kind of fence you have, is the way
you are measuring the fence to blade distance. Less expensive fences are sometimes
made by bending sheetmetal into a U channel, and then spot welding the channel
to another piece of bent metal. In this case the fence will not be straight
from end to end, but will actually be somewhat scalloped. If you hold a straight-
edge against the fence you will see the scalloping. If you have a machined fence
and you have measured carefully, it will not be that.

David		doshay@soma.arc.nasa.gov

The thought police insist I tell you:
my thoughts, not NASA's
From: rcbi27@muvms3.bitnet (DBRUM)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: refinishing old Estey
Date: 27 Jul 92 20:21:08 GMT
Organization: Marshall University

In article <1992Jul22.113859.21920@morgan.ucs.mun.ca>, zedel@weejordy.physics.mun.ca (Len Zedel) writes:
> Does anybody have any experience refinishing an old piano.  We have
> just acquired one built in 1905 or 1906 and are starting the work
> of refinishing it.  Already we have generated some specific questions:
> 
>    1. What sort of finish remover works best for such a job.

First try rubbing a small area with denatured alcohol. If the finish
is shellac--which was very popular as a finish in days gone by--it
will gradually begin to soften and you can do the whole thing with
those Scotch Brite abrasive pads and denatured alcohol. I did this
with an old piano whose finish had become quite opaque. Boy was it
beautiful underneath! It took a lot of alcohol, a couple of gallons
as I recall, because the stuff evaporates almost immediately, and
I went through a lot of rags sopping up the goo that slewed off. But
like I say, that wood sure was beautiful underneath.
-- 
	"Were his solid black square paintings really,
	as the artist claimed, simply neutral, abstract
	compositions devoid of external references and
	meanings?" ***********************************
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
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Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Wed, 29 Jul 1992 09:13:06 -0800
Reply-To:     don@biivax.dp.BECKMAN.COM
From:         Don Roberts <DSROBERTS@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM>
Subject:      Re: Benches
X-To:         WOODWORK%IPFWVM.BITNET@pucc.Princeton.EDU

>I built the bench described in Woodsmith magazine. It was
>published about 3-4 years ago.  I made the bench 6 feet long
>using maple.  I did not add the drawers and cabinet but
>left it open.  I purchased the two vices they recommended.
>Having used the bench for two years I really like it and
>would not change anything.  I built the bench for a lefty
>since that is my disposition.It took me several weekends

I built this same bench the same way (lefty) but also built the drawers and
cabinet.  I've been extremely happy with the bench, and maple seems to be a
fine bench top material.  I'm not real happy with the cabinet design.  The door
to the cabinet calls for 1/4 dowels for the slides and these have proved to
delicate for the wear and tear and constantly break.

   Don Roberts                   Internet:  don@beckman.com
   Beckman Instruments, Inc.     Phone:     714/961-3029
   2500 Harbor Bl. Mailstop X-12 FAX:       714/961-3351
   Fullerton, CA  92634          Disclaimer:  Blame me, not Beckman.
   People are as happy as they decide to be - A. Lincoln
Date: Thursday, 23 Jul 1992 16:49:29 EDT
From: <34AEJ7D@CMUVM.BITNET>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: A Grizzly Tale, or Some Assembly Reqd
 <1992Jul19.054315.8648@usenet.ins.cwru.edu> <131146@lll-winken.LLNL.GOV>
 <1992Jul22.231821.26170@col.hp.com>

In article <1992Jul22.231821.26170@col.hp.com>, howardr@col.hp.com (Howard
Rebel) says:
>
>[...]
>
>EEH GADS.... a laywer.  Does this mean we can look forward to the
>price of Grizzly equipment going up by a factor of 3.....
>
>Need anyone read on.

Geez, if I didn't know better I'd swear that was written by Mr. Grizzly's
speech (and letter?) writer.  :-)

W. K. Gorman
From: ron@pilot.njin.net (Ron Natalie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Keyless Chuck: yea or nay?
Date: 24 Jul 92 18:14:31 GMT
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

> Having completed a major renovation project which a cordless drill would have
> made immeasurably easier

I've got a Makita coordless .  It came with a keyed chuck (it even has a place
for the chuck key on the top of the drill).  I swapped it with the
keyless.  80% of the time I just have a hex shank screwdriver bit
in the thing anyhow so I didn't worry about it.  I've put drill bits
in it and was pleasantly surprised.  Even round bits stay put.  As a
matter of fact, it works better than my corded drill with chuckkey
in this respect (although it may be because the torque is limitted).

-Ron
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: brown@venus.iucf.indiana.edu (Robert J. Brown)
Subject: Re: Trouble Ripping Hardwoods
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.3-4   
Reply-To: brown@venus.iucf.indiana.edu
Organization: IUCF
Distribution:  na
Date: 27 JUL 92 11:55:52    

In article <92205.164804DMEJJ@CUNYVM.BITNET>, <DMEJJ@CUNYVM.BITNET> writes...
>I was wondering if anyone else has this problem.  Whenever I rip hardwoods
>against the rip fence, the wood gets burn marks along the cut.  The only time I
>really rip hardwoods on the table saw is to joint them.  Could the marks be
>caused by the the blade having too many teeth and not letting the wood move
>freely enogh?  When I joint wood I use a 60 tooth blade.  I know that the
>rip fence is paralel to the blade.
> 
>I would welcome any advice.
> 
>Thanks.
>Dan Schlissel

  I also do most of my cuts for glue-up on my table saw. Mostly because
I don't yet own a joiner. For this I use a Freud LU72M10 blade which is 
a 24 tooth, flat top blade specifically designed for ripping. It cuts a
damn near perfectly smooth edge on all woods, hard or soft. If you are
not experiencing binding problems between your blade and fence, I would
strongly urge you to go with a blade more suited for ripping than the 60
tooth blade you described.

  As far as blades go, there has often been a great deal of discussion
on this net. Many like the Forrest Woodworker II, which is advertised as
an all purpose blade. Not having owned one, I can't argue it's virtues.
However, going for about $110, I think it's a bit pricey! I shopped around
the mail order houses and bought: Freud LU85M10 (80 tooth, teflon coated, ATB)
for crosscutting. I mostly leave this one on my miter saw. Price: $54.;
The LU72M described above for the ripping jobs. Price: $36. And lastly,
Freud LU7310 (60 tooth, alternate top bevel) which I use for plywoods and
composition materials. Price: $36. For a total of $126 for all 3 blades.
Each blade is designed for a specific type of cutting and each does it's
job perfectly! 

  I just invested $50 for an LU87 thin kerf, 24 tooth, teflon coated blade
for a big hardwood molding job I'm doing for the new windows I just installed
in my home and this blade will rip a 3" piece of red oak like butter!!

   ____________________________________________________________
  /\                                                           \____
 /\\\  Robert J. Brown                       Bitnet:BROWN@IUCF  \   \
 \\\\\   Indiana University                     _____________    \   \
  \\\\\____  Cyclotron Facility                 \           /\    \   \
   \\\/   /\    Phone: (812)855-9365             \_________/\\\    \   \
    \/___/\\\_____________________________________\ enjoy  \\\\\____\   \
         \\\/               ____                  /   your  \\\/    /____\
          \/________________\ \/_________________/     shop  \/__________/

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: porcelli@trabs.serum.kodak.com (Rocco Porcelli (x69853))
Subject: Re: A Grizzly Tale: Mr. Grizzly replies
Reply-To: porcelli@serum.kodak.com
Organization: Clinical Products Division, Eastman Kodak Company
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 11:53:36 GMT


In article <WOODWORK%92071617245729@IPFWVM.BITNET>, Jeff Roberts
<JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.BITNET> says:
>
>>Mr. Grizzly's reply:
>>=========================================================
>>
>><<<Great stuff deleted>>>
>>
>>03. Regardless, nobody in retail, especially not a president, should EVER
>>    treat a customer in this regard.  Gary had problems with his
>>    tool and he received an insulting mail-o-gram for it.

>Mr. Balolia (aka Mr. Grizzly):

>The quote above sums up my position. Your attitude is unacceptable
>in one asking others to invest in expensive machine tools, part of the
>value of same being the reliability of the manufacturer's customer
>service facility.

>I have a number of large machine tools in my shop, and plan to acquire others.
>I have been contemplating the purchase of a Grizzly 24" wide-belt sanding
>machine. That purchase will now be deferred, pending what I read here of
>your efforts to resolve Gary's problems with his Grizzly equipment.
>Perhaps you *can't* resolve it - but you certainly need to make a
>better effort at doing so than I have seen documented here thus far.

>Let me give you an example of what one can reasonably expect from a
>tool supplier, Mr. B.  Not long ago I purchased a machine tool from
>a supplier; the tool proved to be defective. I returned to the establishment
>where I had purchased the item and asked the address of the nearest service
>center, intending to contact same regarding some sort of repair. To my
>great pleasure, the supplier summarily replaced the ENTIRE UNIT on the spot!

>Perhaps you can draw some inferences regarding proper customer relations
>from this factual example.

>W. K. Gorman

How can you be writing a letter to someone telling them how to run their service department when you yourself have never even dealt with them?  If the poster of the original letter would have called Grizzly's customer support he may have gotten some satisfaction but he just went ahead and did himself.

I have dealt with Grizzly's customer service.  They have always been very kind and helpful.  Their response times have been very acceptable.  I have several Grizzly products and know others that have many also.  We have all been happy with the quality of the product and with their service.

Don't jump to conclusions because of one person's bad experience.  People that are complaining about something are a lot more likely to write about it than people that are satisfied.  Be carful.  You might miss out on a good buy.

Rocco Porcellio
Eastman Kodak Co.
From: ron@pilot.njin.net (Ron Natalie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: While on the subject of cordless drills
Date: 28 Jul 92 02:29:30 GMT
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

> It lasted about four years - is that considered a long time?

Depends on use and how you care for your battery.  It wouldn't
be a surprising failure.

> This contradicts everything I'd learned about rechargeable batteries -
> one charges them when necessary, and in fact it is "a good practice to
> fully discharge the battery pack" (or is this just hear-say?).

It's a common thought.  It's also wrong.  It stems from
misinterpretation of the "memory effect" that NASA found.  In
actuality, memory effect is rare in most consumer electronics.  What
can destroy a nicad battery is running it dry.  You run the risk of
reversing one of the cells.

> Is the clerk right and should all rechargeable items be left in all the
> time?  He was surprised when I told him that I avoid rechargeable items
> for just this same reason.  Regards.

Depends on what your charger is designed for.  My Makita has a high
rate charger that takes under an hour.  Certainly you don't want to
keep hitting the go button on this thing.  The cheasy transformer
on a rope (overnight) chargers can be left charging the battery
continually, and is not a bad idea to do so.  Also, don't run your
battery down to the point it is completely dead.  When it starts
to fade, swap it for another and recharge it.

-Ron
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: rhoover@watson.ibm.com (Roger Hoover)
Subject: Re: Benches
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 15:01:41 GMT
Distribution: na
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center

In article <1992Jul29.003250.14833@organpipe.uug.arizona.edu>, tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin) writes:
|> What do you have?
|> Did you build it?
My workbench started with the Tage Fried design (picture in Workshop Book,
plans in FWW #4 and FWW on the small shop).  I didn't have any 2" maple,
but I did have piles of 5/4 cherry.  Thus, I edge laminated the top out
of 1x4 surfaced lengths.  The resulting surface has been very stable
(unlike a friends who did build his with 1.75x4" horizontal pieces.

I edge laminated the tool tray with 1x2 lengths, lengthened the table by
10", made the sholder vice a couple of inches deeper.

|> What really works great for you?
|> What really FAILS for you?
The european bench is pretty refined.  It works quite well for traditional
planing, scraping, and cutting operations with hand tools.  I also have
another work bench (2"x30"x72" table, edge laminated oak), which holds
my metal vice, grinder, and a metal body wood vice.

|> What would you make if you had it to do, or to do over?
|> Do you like tail vices for planing?
How else do you plane a surface?  I used to use the back edge of my
unifence table to edge plane boards, clamping them to the angle iron.
I did surface plane a few boards by running the end into a clamp, but
I never managed to get a satisfactory hold on the board.

|> What about shoulder vices, record vices, leg vices, etc...
I bought the pair of bench screws from Garret Wade.  They were $55 or
so and I think that they have gone up since then.

|> Storage cabinets or open?
I place wooden boxes of things on the stretchers under the bench.  The
wall behind the bench is covered with pegboard which holds the bulk of
my hand tools

|> Portable?
|> Size?
Well, if you can lug around 200 lbs....

roger
rhoover@watson.ibm.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bamford@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (harold.e.bamford)
Subject: Re: Corian tops for router tables
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 16:38:41 GMT

In article <1992Jul27.133943.5299@cbfsb.cb.att.com> millios@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (william.l.millios) writes:
>A while back, somebody posted what sounded to me like a great idea:
>use Corian as a table top for their router table.

>Whoa!  This stuff is expensive.  At 24 inches wide, the best quote
>I can find so far is $10 (that's ten whole bucks) A LINEAR INCH!.
>
>So, for a 2 foot by 2 foot table top, we're looking at $240 bucks.

The trick is to get some scrap.  I used a double-sink cutout, which the
guy sold to me for $35.  It was 3/4" thick and the size of a
double-sink (!).  Just perfect for a router table.

Normally they can use all of the material by gluing pieces together,
but sometimes they have some left over.  Selling it sure beats tossing it!

Good luck.

-- Harold Bamford
#include <usual.disclaimers>
From: ALEX@NKI.BITNET (Bill Alexander)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Keyless Chuck: yea or nay?
Date: 23 Jul 92 17:38:07 GMT
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU

Having completed a major renovation project which a cordless drill would have
made immeasurably easier, I've belatedly decided to buy one. I like the
notion of a keyless chuck, but I'm suspicious of them. Anyone have any
experience with them?  They really hang on to that bit?
Thanks.

BTW here's another Woodworking Watchword: The guy who introduced me to home
renovation once asked me to hand him the "carpenter's level" - he was pointing
to a 20-pound sledge.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bonaccio@griffin (Tony Bonaccio)
Subject: Re: wood finishes for baby furniture
Organization: University of Vermont, EMBA Computer Facility
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 02:47:32 GMT


This kind of thing has come up here a couple of times recently.  You have to
be careful of commercial finishes such as polyurethane, "Danish" oil, and so
on because they have heavy metals (ie lead) in them to act as driers.

A couple of finishes that most folks seem to believe are 100% safe are 
Behlen's Salad Bowl Finish (FDA certified) and 100% pure (NOT polymerized)
tung oil.

If your kids are like mine, a playpen has rails and bars that are sure to 
get knawed on sooner or later.  Take care in selecting the finish.

Tony
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ag900@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (David Burris)
Subject: re:Grizzly Tale
Reply-To: ag900@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (David Burris)
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 92 18:31:19 GMT


                       Subject:                               Time:3:49
PM
  OFFICE MEMO          Posting 2
Date:7/27/92
This is in response to 14055 Re: A Grizzly Tale, or Some Assembly Reqd
========================================================
From: ronnie@cisco.com (Ronnie B. Kon)
Subject: Installing a pre-hung door
X-Disclaimer: The views expressed in this message are those of an
	      individual at SRI International, and do not necessarily
	      reflect those of the company.
Organization: cisco Systems, Incorporated
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 06:50:06 GMT

On the assumption that carpentry is a form of woodworking (yes, I know...):

We have just ordered a pre-hung front door to replace the one we have, 
with the idea that I will hang it.  From the look of the write-ups in
the Sunset Home Repair Handbook and the Readers' Digest Home Repair Guide
(don't knock the latter if you haven't read it--it's the best general
purpose guide I've found) it looks pretty straight-forward.

Am I getting in too deep?  Any advice for a first-timer?  

Thanks.

				Ronnie


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ronnie B. Kon           | "Boy, they were big on crematoriums, weren't they?"
ronnie@cisco.com        |
(415) 688-4592          |           -- George Bush at Auschwitz, Sept 1989
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking