HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: cash@convex.com (Peter Cash)
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: Re: Full auto rate of fire
Date: 5 Jan 93 14:54:54 GMT
Organization: The Instrumentality

In article <1993Jan5.010915.28498@henson.cc.wwu.edu> n9020351@henson.cc.wwu.edu (James Douglas Del-Vecchio) writes:
...

#	The mini uzi is also a 9mm blowback, I wasn't aware of any
#.380s by them.   I guess the .380 Cobray makes some sense, but it
#seems if you are going for a smaller caliber you ought to go all
#the way and make it .22 LR.  The problem with .22 LR double stack
#mags seem to be impossible, however, Grendel makes a 30 double stack
#.22 Mag pistol, and I don't see why that would be any easier than .22
#LR.

Yeah, I've had fantasies about this too--a full auto machine pistol with a
500 shot box magazine. 8^) I think we'd have to go with belt feed,
though--unless we also want to make the magazine a handy shooting stand. A
belt-feed .22--that's the ticket!

On a more real note, there's a gun called the Skorpion--Czech, I
think--isn't that .32 ACP? Should be easy to "hose" down an area with that
one. 


-- 
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
             |      Die Welt ist alles, was Zerfall ist.     |
Peter Cash   |       (apologies to Ludwig Wittgenstein)      |cash@convex.com
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
From: The best place for a feminist is in another person's lab. -- James D. Watson, _The_Double_Helix_
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: Handloading startup info
Date: 7 Jan 93 13:47:25 GMT


OK, now that I've graduated from 15+1 popguns to Real Firepower(tm), I
have learned a disturbing factoid: .44Magnum is bloody expensive! 
$21 for el cheapo ammo...The revolver cost less than half what my
wundernines cost, but it costs more than twice as much to shoot, so
I'm being forced into a decision I was going to put off for awhile.
I've decided to take the plunge, and get into handloading.
OK, there's a big gun show in OKC this weekend, and I'm looking forward
to getting into it cheap, but I'm sure it'll cut down on my .44 costs. ;-)

My question is, what do I need to get into reloading? I'm talking low 
volume .44Mag/.44Spl. and 9mm, with the possibility of .30-30 much
later (since my rifle has been sitting in its hidey-hole for most of 
the last year, I can't really justify loading for it now). What kind
of hardware/supplies/reference materials should I look for, and what
kind of money am I looking at?

Any and all help would be appreciated via email (with subsequent
summarization when my news host returns from the upgrade void).
Since my news host is down, please reply to the following address:
	callison@aardvark.ucs.uoknor.edu
Thanks in advance!
				James

James P. Callison	Microcomputer Coordinator	OU Law Library
callison@uokmax.ecn.uoknor.edu   /\   callison@aardvark.ucs.uoknor.edu
	constellation!biglaw!callison@mailhost.ecn.uoknor.edu
DISCLAIMER: I'm not an engineer, but I play one at work...
   It was revealed that some hard-line Communists may have resorted to
cannibalism during the Cultural Revolution. Boy, talk about eating Chinese!
		--Dave Letterman, "Late Night with David Letterman"
From: post@hpfcso.fc.hp.com (David Post)
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: Re: FAL sporter
Date: 8 Jan 93 14:07:13 GMT

Stephen D. Grant:

 >Also, can the old-style FN-FAL stocks be put back onto the sporter version?
 >Like can be done with the H&K.
 >While we're at it, how bout the Galils? Can they wear the old furniture?

I have seen Galil folding stocks on FN sporters at gun shows.  I don't think
the ever changed the receivers when they went to sporters.

And, yes, the Galil Sporter can be retro-fitted to wear the old furniture.
I have seen that as well.  


David Post  davep@hpfcpp.fc.hp.com  hplabs!hpfcla!post
From: rslugg@med.unc.edu (Robert Slugg)
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: Re: Self Protect Handgun vs. Shotgun.
Date: 7 Jan 93 03:45:03 GMT
Organization: UNC-CH School of Medicine

One cannot compare the effect of a bullet on a single brick with the
effect of a bullet on a brick in a wall.  The latter will have significant
structural reinforcement from the mortar in the holes and from the other
bricks surrounding it on all four sides.  As an example, look at war
footage where 20 mm shells make holes in walls but don't turn the walls to
dust, well, part of it becomes dust.  I doubt that a standard load of buck
would penetrate a wall made of brick.  It would probably have a better
chance of penetrating a cinder block.  Having spent a couple of summers
working in a brick yard, I can say with a fair amount of certainty that
cinder blocks are surprisingly fragile except in the center and on the
ends.

Bob
From: sybok@athena.mit.edu (The Rifleman)
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: Re: 'falling' bullets
Date: 12 Jan 93 22:17:45 GMT
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology

In article <1993Jan11.234038.4210@netcom.com> harp@netcom.com 
(Gregory O. Harp) writes:
#Regarding the falling bullets argument, what does it matter if it's
#moving 300fps or 1000fps?  300fps is sufficient to cause bodily harm
#and/or death.  
#
#I recall hearing stories (possibly urban legend) of pennies being
#dropped from tall buildings (i.e. the Empire State Building and
#taller) and killing people who were walking on the sidewalk below.
#Also, witness what large hailstones do to cars.  Moral: Any object
#falling from sufficient height is dangerous.

This might happen on the moon, but on Earth all objects reach a terminal
velocity at which the rate of momentum transfer imparted by the incident
air stream equals that imparted by the Earth's gravitational attraction
(F = mg = kv).  The penny would reach terminal velocity long before it
attained a lethal velocity.
From: barry@uts.amdahl.com (Barry Needham)
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: Re: BENELLI M3 SUPER 90 - OPINION/EXPERIENCE
Date: 9 Jan 93 14:25:06 GMT
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA


hruo@ncrclm.clemsonsc.NCR.COM (Hiro Ruo) writes:

#i am considering getting a Benelli M3 Super 90.  This is the Benelli Semi-auto
#12 gauge that is switchable to pump.  I know the M1 Super 90 is considered a
#GREAT shotgun, but i've heard recommendations from a Gunshop friend who
#advised me not to go convertible.  He said that he suspects that like the
#FRANCHI SPAS-12, the M3 Super 90 will have similar problems.  

#Has anyone out there had experience with these type guns?  the Benelli in
#particular?  

#I would like to find out AS MUCH as possible before I plunk down $750.

#thanks,

#Hiro.Ruo@ClemsonSC.NCR.COM

I have the M1 Benelli and I have shot several M3s.  I would stay away from the
M3 unless you have a particular application (flares, gas grenades, etc) that
requires a load that will not reliably cycle the action.  Also, there are some
tricks, like loading nine rounds, that are not possible on the M3.

I believe that the Benelli M1 is the best combat shotgun in the world.  I do
not consider the M3 to be an improvement.  The M3 is just something that
occupies a narrow tactical niche.

Barry.

-- 
Barry Needham          barry@uts.amdahl.com          USA (408) 992-2527
From: mhickey@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu (No One)
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: Thanks
Date: 11 Jan 93 01:05:33 GMT
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana

I'd like to thank all of you who have responded to my request for
9mm handgun information. 

I tried to reply to each of your e-mail letters and thank you
more or less personaly, but I may have missed a few.  Sorry if I
missed you.

I have recieved a lot of information and advice since posting my
article and all of it has been helpful.  You have all given me a
lot to think about and answered a number of questions.

Although I still haven't made a decision yet, you have all helped
me get much closer to that goal.  I appreciate it.

Thanks again,

Bill
mhickey@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu

[MODERATOR:  Bill, I hope you get back to us later after you make a
decision ... let us know which way you go.]
From: viking@iastate.edu (Dan Sorenson)
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: Norinco first impressions.  Normal?
Date: 10 Jan 93 04:34:53 GMT
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames IA


	I hit a gun store today for some supplies, and caught a
glimpse of a Norinco 1911A1 under the counter.  Since I'm thinking
of giving the Old Army to my grandfather in return for another
.45ACP semi-auto, I thought I'd take a look at it.  It sure looked
good on the inside back cover of American Rifleman.

	The advertisement is, like all of them, much better than the
real thing.  About the only thing I can say about this gun was that
it had a better finish than my Haskall, but so far as fit was
concerned this gun was pathetic.  Pull the slide and you think it
uses emory cloth as a friction reducer.  <grind> <grind> <scrape>
A quick look showed machine marks and some burring on the feed ramp.
The trigger pull was just like the slide -- raspy and uneven.  The
whole finish was even bluing, but the metal itself felt like it was
a sand-cast item that had never been smoothed or polished.  For all
I know, it wasn't.  Even releasing the slide lock was an exercise
in thumb strength.

	The price was good, though, but for the extra $200 it would
take to get this gun to be smooth and even, you could purchase a
new Colt and have the proper fit and finish already.

	Anybody own one and wish to comment?  Maybe I just saw a
bad example.

	BTW: decided I'd replace a Ruger with another Ruger.  The
new P85 variant in .45ACP just felt good.  We'll see later if it
works good.

< Dan Sorenson, DoD #1066 z1dan@exnet.iastate.edu viking@iastate.edu >
<  ISU only censors what I read, not what I say.  Don't blame them.  >
<  "Are you *SURE* he's worth a Harley-Davidson?" -- my grandmother  >
< to my girlfriend, about me.  "I'd better not say" -- my girlfriend >
From: ems@michael.apple.com (E. Michael Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: Re: Self Protect Handgun vs. Shotgun.
Date: 5 Jan 93 14:55:25 GMT
Organization: Circle 'C' Shellfish Ranch, Shores-of-the-Pacific, California

In article <1i9r7aINNe1a@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> bz269@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (James D. Del Vecchio) writes:
#
#In a previous article, pusv1305@altair.selu.edu () says:
#
##I am trying to decide on an appropreate personal protection pistol and or
##shotgun?  I have looked at ballistics and energy on impack for different
##ranges.  I figure a maximum range of 30 yards, for this porpose.  I also live
##in a neighborhood where homes are close together, and thin walled.  For this
##reason I dont want something that will go through my house and the neighbors,
##ect.  I do however want one shot stopping!  
#
#	You can't have it both ways, in fact, its hard to get it even one 

I think you can have it both ways!  The 'formula' is a frangible 
projectile of flimsy construction, but high mass, going modestly slow.

Note that he said 'my house and the neighbors, etc.' at two layers per
wall, I make that to be 4 drywall layers minimum.  

Go for a 12 ga. with 'Dove and Target' loads or a .45 at about 
750 fps with a very soft slug or very open hollow point like the 200 gr.
Speer.  One could also use shot shells, but at the cost of less
effective stopping.  Glaser Saftey Slugs in a .45 ACP sould be
just dandy.

##A possible might be the .22 Magnum,
##the ballistics i've seen rate it up there with a .38, but I havent seen many on
##the market.  I am not in a situation to get up if the first shot misses and
##beat the perp. over the head.  I'm open to suggestions.  
#
#	I suspect .22 Mag would penetrate more walls (and people) than 
#a .38.  Penetration is something like energy divided by frontal area:
#.22 Mag has less energy than the better .38s, but it has only about 40% 
#frontal area.  I've never fired .22 Mag in a pistol, but it's pretty
#loud in rifles, and I imagine it would be louder than a .38 in a pistol

Skip the .22 Mag for this scenario for exactly those reasons.  It is
loud, hot, and penetrates Very Well.

-- 

E. Michael Smith  ems@apple.COM

'Whatever you can do, or dream you can, begin it.  Boldness has
 genius, power and magic in it.'  -  Goethe

I am not responsible nor is anyone else.  Everything is disclaimed.
From: paladin@west.darkside.com (Paladin)
Newsgroups: rec.pyrotechnics
Subject: Re: Tide and Gasoline=Napalm lik compound?
Date: 8 Jan 93 20:47:42 GMT
Organization: The Dark Side of the Moon +1 408 245 SPAM

mikep@sr.hp.com (Mike Powell) writes:

> 
> 
> I have heard that soap _flakes_ should be used....
> 
> I have tried it with Ivory soap in liquid form (for dishes) with
> unsatisfactory results.  I attempted to carve a bar of soap into flakes
> but this proved to be somewhat difficult.  I think that soap flakes should
> work well.
> 
> -Mike-
> 
> 

I always found that Joy liquid dishwashing detergent worked fairly well.. 
it stuck to whatever it hit and burned nicely.  Styrofoam also works, but 
it takes quite a quantity of it to make enough to work with.  You also 
still have to deal with the fumes that the gasoline will give off.  I 
almost blew my face off with a glass bottle I thought was empty.  Of 
course, that was a long time ago:  I pretty much limit myself to 4th of 
July funtoys.
Newsgroups: rec.pyrotechnics
From: ad494@yfn.ysu.edu (Chris Koknat)
Subject: Re: Tide and Gasoline=Napalm lik compound?
Organization: Youngstown State University/Youngstown Free-Net
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 14:30:13 GMT


If you want soap flakes, you can buy them at some places ( I've seen 
them but I dont remenber where), or use a cheese grater on the 
soap.  

Happy Detonating!
Newsgroups: rec.pyrotechnics
From: ahahma@polaris.utu.fi (Arno Hahma)
Subject: Re: Colored flames (Was: Re: Napalm...)
Organization: University of Turku
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 93 14:31:30 GMT

In article <1993Jan11.122613@rbg.informatik.th-darmstadt.de> kremser@rbg.informatik.th-darmstadt.de (steffen kremser) writes:
>P.S. Has anybody thought about the likes of "bengalic naplam"
>     (sodium-free soap, a 'blueish-burning' solvent, strontium salts)

Yes. I have made blue, red, yellow and green movie explosions with a
blueish-burning solvent and appropriate salts. Any solvent with more
than 25..30 % of oxygen and a moderate flammability should do well.
If burned slowly, the colors still appear well - so "bengalic napalm"
might be possible. Another problem is, how to thicken various
solvents, soap is not going to work for all.

>Steffen +------------------------+-------------------------------------+

ArNO
    2
Newsgroups: rec.pyrotechnics
From: dheisler@CERIS.Purdue.EDU (Dave Heisler)
Subject: pyro lit for sale
Organization: Center for Environmental and Regulatory Information Systems, Purdue University
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 16:05:51 GMT

I have the following for sale :

1988, 1989, 1990  american fireworks news yearbooks

$10 each plus shipping (probably about 3 dollars, each)

dave
Newsgroups: rec.pyrotechnics
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: 4th of July left overs
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 17:42:20 GMT

nathanf@cup.portal.com (nathan benjamin friedman) writes:
: Hello,
: 
: 	I have some fireworks left over from the forth and would
: like to get rid of them.  They are all in orgional pakaging and 
: unopened.
: 
: 	1 box   M-60's
: 	1gross  Whistling Bottle Rockets
: 	3 gross  Black Cat Bottle Rockets
: 	40 packs of 50  "Flying Dragon" firecrackers
: 	2 bricks Black Cat firecrackers
: 
: All this was bought for around $140,  will sell for $70 obo.

You paid far too much. From what I remember, bottle rockets retail for
about $10/gross. 2000 firecrackers should cost well under $10. I think
I paid less than $6/brick (2000), last time I bought any.

It has been a couple of years since I bought any - prices may have
increased.

Bill
Newsgroups: rec.pyrotechnics
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: flash recipies
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 17:21:09 GMT

brian@pdx.csd.mot.com (Brian Vandewettering) writes:
: 
: However, I'm curious about the different flash recipies I've seen.  Some
: suggest only Aluminum Powder with Potassium Perchlorate, while others (*)
: suggest adding sulfur flour.  The gopher file suggests 1 part aluminum 
: powder with 3 parts perchlorate.  Is this by weight or volume? 

All measures are by weight. Think about it just a little - how else are
you to tell how much you have? If you go by volume - how tight are you
going to pack the powders for measuring?

Sulfur is not needed. It often is used in formulas to reduce the ignition
temperature of the mixture. In the case of the perchlorate flash mixes,
this is not needed. I have Sarlucci's manual - I do not recall whether
it is any good or not.

3:1 is a little heavy on the perchlorate. The stoichiometric ratio is
about 2:1. Shimizu recommends a 7:3 ratio.

Use great care - the mixtures are powerful. Make only very small batches.
Only a few grams can mangle your hand, if you happen to be holding the
salute when it explodes. 500 grams can do serious damage to your house,
and is likely to be lethal to anyone close to the explosion.

Flash powders are shock, friction and static sensitive. There are worse
mixtures or compounds - but don't take chances. Make a very small amount,
and test it for sensitivity. Mix only using the "diaper" method, do not
screen the mixture. Do not grind the mixed components.

Bill
Newsgroups: rec.pyrotechnics
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: Colored flames (Was: Re: Napalm...)
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 19:17:53 GMT

Andrew.Brooks@launchpad.unc.edu (Andrew Brooks) writes:
: >
: >Yes. I have made blue, red, yellow and green movie explosions with a
: >blueish-burning solvent and appropriate salts. Any solvent with more
: >than 25..30 % of oxygen and a moderate flammability should do well.
: >If burned slowly, the colors still appear well - so "bengalic napalm"
: >might be possible. Another problem is, how to thicken various
: >solvents, soap is not going to work for all.
: 
: 
: I seem to remember Mark mentioning that PVC is commonly used for this
: in the movies.

PVC is used as a chlorine donor - to deepen the intensity of the color.

Bill
Newsgroups: rec.pyrotechnics
From: mikep@sr.hp.com (Mike Powell)
Subject: Re: Tide and Gasoline=Napalm lik compound?
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 04:47:56 GMT
Organization: HP Sonoma County (SRSD/MWTD/MID)
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.9 PL6]



I have heard that soap _flakes_ should be used....

I have tried it with Ivory soap in liquid form (for dishes) with
unsatisfactory results.  I attempted to carve a bar of soap into flakes
but this proved to be somewhat difficult.  I think that soap flakes should
work well.

-Mike-


Newsgroups: rec.pyrotechnics
From: aankrom@nyx.cs.du.edu (Anthony Ankrom)
Subject: Re: Sodium Nitrite
X-Disclaimer: Nyx is a public access Unix system run by the University
	of Denver for the Denver community.  The University has neither
	control over nor responsibility for the opinions of users.
Organization: Nyx, Public Access Unix at U. of Denver Math/CS dept.
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 93 14:55:29 GMT


 NaNO2 is also handy for preparing nitroalkanes.

St. Anthony

--
          / N \   O                   Mi vsi smo krizhani,
         |   \ |  || Ph               chlani izbrani
         |   | |_O-C-C-OH             mesarskega ceha...
BZ        \ / /      Ph                            aankrom@nyx.cs.du.edu
Newsgroups: rec.pyrotechnics
From: Andrew.Brooks@launchpad.unc.edu (Andrew Brooks)
Subject: Re: Colored flames (Was: Re: Napalm...)
Organization: University of North Carolina Extended Bulletin Board Service
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 18:38:27 GMT

In article <1993Jan11.143130.8730@polaris.utu.fi> ahahma@polaris.utu.fi (Arno Hahma) writes:
>In article <1993Jan11.122613@rbg.informatik.th-darmstadt.de> kremser@rbg.informatik.th-darmstadt.de (steffen kremser) writes:
>>P.S. Has anybody thought about the likes of "bengalic naplam"
>>     (sodium-free soap, a 'blueish-burning' solvent, strontium salts)
>
>Yes. I have made blue, red, yellow and green movie explosions with a
>blueish-burning solvent and appropriate salts. Any solvent with more
>than 25..30 % of oxygen and a moderate flammability should do well.
>If burned slowly, the colors still appear well - so "bengalic napalm"
>might be possible. Another problem is, how to thicken various
>solvents, soap is not going to work for all.


I seem to remember Mark mentioning that PVC is commonly used for this
in the movies.

Zoz
--
   The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the University of
     North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Campus Office for Information
        Technology, or the Experimental Bulletin Board Service.
           internet:  laUNChpad.unc.edu or 152.2.22.80
Newsgroups: rec.pyrotechnics
From: jac54@cas.org ()
Subject: Re: Teflon
Organization: Chemical Abstracts Service, Columbus, Ohio
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 12:14:19 GMT

In article <1i872aINN5b3@shelley.u.washington.edu> miolnir@stein.u.washington.edu (Scot Thorstad) writes:
>In article <1992Dec30.201843.1695@cbnewse.cb.att.com> random@cbnewse.cb.att.com (David L. Pope) writes:
>>From article <1992Dec30.200154.146@cas.org>, by jac54@cas.org ():
>>>
>>>     Time to scare you.  Burning Teflon is a dangerous pastime,...
>>
>>>     This information was in Armed Forces Journal International
>>>     about two years ago and confirmed for me by a military
>>>     intelligence officer who specialized in chemical warfare.
>>
>>I don't suppose the journal mentioned the temperatures involved, did
>>it? Will overheating a Teflon coated skillet prove dangerous? How
>>about Teflon II?
>>
>>      Random
>
>I believe some fringe lit book mentioned putting teflon scrapings
>in someones cigarette so the temps involved can't be too high.


	Teflon will start to char at about 350 C (650 F).  The rate of
	burning is also important.  Slow charring, as occurs in org. chem.
	practicals and dry sterilization, allows complete combustion to
	carbonyl fluoride, which is less toxic.  Rapid burning will lead
	to the formation of the serious nasties, this could be started
	by a magnesium flare but probably not in normal cooking.

	Alec Chambers
Newsgroups: rec.pyrotechnics
Newsgroups: rec.pyrotechnics
Date: Thu,  7 Jan 1993 11:40:03 -0500 
From: Lawrence Curcio <lc2b+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: flash recipes (& experiences & ANFO stuff)
Distribution: inet

I have been inactive in this area for about 25 years. I have made flash
compositions with stoichiometric mixtures of KClO4 and Al, but I have
never added sulphur. Nevertheless, I'd bet good money that the sulphur
is preferable for flash and bang mixtures, while the non-sulphur is
preferable for pure flashes.

Without Sulphur, virtually all the combustion products (KCl and Al2O3)
are refractory solids at thousands of degrees above room temperature.
These compunds don't expand very well to produce bangs in small
quantities. ( Large quantities will reputedly detonate and produce very
sizable bangs.) With the sulphur, there will be gasseous sulphur and
possibly SO2 (I don't know that it actually exists at the temperatures
we're talking about, though), which will expand nicely.

The energy output per gram is lower with the sulphur, and the flash may
be diminished slightly. That's why I think straight Al would work better
for flash alone.

WORD OF CAUTION: If the above is true, then sulphured mixtures are not
only more sensitive, they are potentially more destructive. 

DISCLAIMER: I don't advise anyone to make these mixtures or any other
explosive mixture. I also don't advise anyone to break the law.

Best Regards,
-Larry C.