HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty)
Subject: Re: "Zymol and AUTO GLYM, any experience ?"
Organization: New York State Institute for Sebastian Cabot Studies
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 16:19:26 GMT

In article <1992Jul29.045149.7698@csus.edu> aalis@sfsuvax1.sfsu.edu (Andy A. Liss) writes:
>Last time someone in the net asked whether the zymol wax is any good,
>but so far, I haven't seen any answer to this one.

>So..., has anyone out there in the net wisdom tried zymol, are they
>worth their price (around US $25 and up, for example, I saw the 
>beginner's kit ad in the auto magazine sells for $ 64, and goes up 
>to $ 4,000 / more for the connosieur (sp) / car show buff)

well, zymol is one of those subjective things.  i use it and like it,
but i can understand why many people would be disturbed by the price.
if you think that zymol is pricy, then Meguiers is probably the wax
for you.

the real winning product at zymol is the hd cleanse paint cleaner;
this stuff is really helpful on marginal, heavily oxidized paint jobs,
much better than rubbing compounds as it only takes off the oxidized
paint.  a very effective alternative to buying into the whole zymol line
is to just purchase the hd cleanse and use Meguiers wax.

cheers,
  richard
-- 
richard welty                            518-393-7228
welty@cabot.balltown.cma.com
  ``if you can read this, mario, you're too close''
    -- bumper sticker seen on a CART safety truck
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: matmcinn@nuscc.nus.sg (Mcinnes B T (Dr))
Subject: economical motoring
Organization: National University of Singapore
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 08:30:44 GMT

Which is cheaper [in the US]: a Diablo or a 512TR?
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: quadrun@jhunix.hcf.jhu.edu (Jason G Velasco)
Subject: Re: Have you tried ColorCoat 2000?
Organization: HAC - Johns Hopkins University, Baltimore
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 06:41:11 GMT

In article <1992Jul20.164216.24042@truevision.com> David Spoelstra <davids@truevision.com> writes:
>Has anyone out there tried ColorCoat 2000, or any wax product with color
>in it?  I have seen several different variations advertised on TV, and
>was wondering if anyone had some real-live experience with them.
>
>David Spoelstra
>davids@truevision.com


Yes, just for the heck of it.  It was about $5 at Pep Boys.

The color portion is kind of bogus; it doesn't really fill in scratches.
However, the polishers in the wax work pretty well and you can polish out
small scratches with it.  

The only advantage I see of having a colored wax is so that if you miss
some, it doesn't turn into ugly white powder that's highly visible (unless
you have a white car).

It's easy to apply and remove.  It also works well for polishing scratched
CDs.

I'll probably stick to Meguire's for my car...

Jason
-- 
Jason Velasco                                      quadrun@jhunix.hcf.jhu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: an660@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Sandy Maurer)
Subject: Re: SUMMARY Remote Radar Detectors Test
Reply-To: an660@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Sandy Maurer)
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 92 08:29:23 GMT


In a previous article, s5umam@fnma.COM (Mike Mohar) says:

[stuff deleted}

>Their Favorites:
>
>Whistler 5000SE ($299)
>BEL 966ST-R ($379)
>Whistler 3000 ($219)
>BEL Vector 3LX ($279)
>Maxon RD30 ($139)
>
How does the Cincinnati Microwave products rate on this survey?

A friend said to me I only need a cheap model that has all the
bands such as the Whistler 680 for $80. He said if I pay more
than $100 Im just wasting my money. Is he correct?

These hi tech models described abv really are loaded wi lots of
stuff on it that I just dont need. Said he to me while laughing in
my face. He also said check wi the truckers for the scoup on the
lwr end models. 

Sandy  
   (whose vacation is just abt ovr )
From: bense@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ron Bense)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Midas and Custom Built vs Factory Made Q's
Date: 29 Jul 92 22:54:54 GMT
Reply-To: bense@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ronald Bense)
Distribution: na
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.autos, GARN@SLACVM.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU (GARY NIEMI) writes:
>In article <Bs5vJ0.7LM@news.cso.uiuc.edu>, weller@osiris.cso.uiuc.edu (Bonnie
>Weller) says:

>>I took my car into Midas a few weeks ago and had them do an estimate.
>>They told me I had a hole in the pipe next to the muffler and that
>>the long pipe from the catalitic converter to the smaller pipe would

>In response to point (2):
>Over two years ago, my father went to Midas to get the muffler replaced
>on his '85 Chevy.  They had advertised some low price on mufflers to get
>people in the door.  After looking at the exhaust system, they said he
>needed to replace the pipe from the catalytic converter to the muffler
>and the tailpipe also, along with various hangers and bolts, etc.  The
>total was over $150.  He simply refused the extra work, so they just did
>the muffler job.  Two years later, the pipes they wanted to replace are
>still perfectly good, probably in better condition than the new muffler.
>From this experience, I would say to avoid Midas if at all possible.

For the Midas portion, I agree. For one, their mufflers seem to last
just about 2 years, then they need replacing, and they try the whole
speil over again. Since you own an 87 Camry, I seriously doubt that
there are *any* holes in the pipe ahead of the muffler, unless you live
in a high salt area. Then there might be a possibility. I live in the
DC-MD area, drive an 88 Toyota Celica Turbo, and have *no* rust in the
exhaust at all. (Whatever other problems I had with the car notwithstanding
for those of you who caught the previous complaint list :)

You might actually want to check with the dealer, and see how much their
estimate is, as the muffler and piping Midas or Mienekie uses is of
such poor quality that if your original already rusted out, they may
only last through a single winter. (The original equipment on Toyota
exhaust used to be Stainless Steel I believe, as mine never rusted,
and this is my third Toyota, each being driven with original exhaust
equipment 80,000, 90,000, and the present one is at 76,000.)

Ron

Potassium Benzoate included as a preserver.
From: cc@dcs.ed.ac.uk (Chris Cooke)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Rotaries
Date: 21 Jul 92 10:07:20 GMT
	<1992Jul20.174042.3895@pictel.com>
	<Jul21.012905.4014@yuma.ACNS.ColoState.EDU>
Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of Edinburgh, Scotland
In-reply-to: cc433336@LANCE.ColoState.Edu's message of 21 Jul 92 01:29:05 GMT

In article <Jul21.012905.4014@yuma.ACNS.ColoState.EDU> cc433336@LANCE.ColoState.Edu (Constantinos A. Caroutas) writes:

   A friend from Greece swears that the rule there is that the cars in the
   rotary must yield to the entering ones. He told me that he was taken during
   his driving test to a rotary. But, from what I remember from Cyprus (I
   haven't been there in 10 years though and I have never seen a rotary over
   here) is that the cars inside have the right of way. This also makes sense
   since if you those who enter have the right of way, then the rotary will
   become congested in no time.

The British rule since time immemorial has been that vehicles on the
rotary (I'd call it a roundabout, I assume this is the same thing) always
have the right of way.  The French rule used to be the opposite, that
vehicles on the rotary had to give way to entering vehicles.  This latter
rule can occasionally lead to complete deadlock (as my old parallel
architectures lecturer told me :-)   Since Cyprus used to be a British colony
I expect they inherited the British traffic conventions.

As long as everyone knows the (same) rule, and everyone is familiar with the
things, they work extremely well.
--
	-- Chris. 	cc@dcs.ed.ac.uk   (on Janet, cc@uk.ac.ed.dcs)

		
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: koverzin@ntmtv.UUCP (Raymond Koverzin)
Subject: WHERE TO BUY TOYOTA TERCEL???
Originator: koverzin@herald
Reply-To: koverzin@ntmtv.UUCP (Raymond Koverzin)
Organization: Northern Telecom Inc, Mountain View, CA
Distribution: ba
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 16:53:50 GMT


A friend of mine wishes to buy a new Tercel this coming weekend and has
asked me to help her.

If you had recently purchased a Tercel, what was the deal you had
gotten?  Did you get financing through Toyota?

Is there anything I can negotiate for?  Are they offering low-
percentage financing?  Thanks.
-- 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: chilton@crc.ricoh.com (Jeff Chilton)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: How to determine year of a car?
Date: 27 Jul 92 20:14:43 GMT
Organization: RICOH California Research Center


   Aside from examining the car, the title or registration should have
   the "date first sold" filled out.  Now, of course it could still be
   a 19XY sold in 19XY+1, but isn't the model year also on the title and
   registration?  Ask to see these first.
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: (Eric Youngblood)
Subject: Re: IT'S YOUR FAULT!
Reply-To:  (Eric Youngblood)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Richardson, Tx
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 19:09:22 GMT

In article <1992Jul23.174231.160@lrc.edu>, blosser_cy@lrc.edu writes:
|> You filthy money-grubbing, rich capitalist pigs driving fast sports cars and
|> gas-guzzling automobiles, polluting the air with the nauseating stench of ex
|> haust, creating acid rain, and melting a gaping hole in the ever-diminishing
|> ozone layer...it's all your fault this world is so f--ked up!!! If everybody
|> got rid of their automobiles, we'd have a much nicer environment to leave to 
|> our children!!!! 
|> 

Glad I could help!!!!!   8^)
From: t9114145@phillip.edu.au
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: IT'S YOUR FAULT!
Date: 25 Jul 92 17:56:36 GMT
Organization: RMIT (Bundoora Campus)

In article <1992Jul23.174231.160@lrc.edu>, blosser_cy@lrc.edu writes:
> You filthy money-grubbing, rich capitalist pigs driving fast sports cars and
.
.
.
etc..

How are we supposed to take you seriously when you're too gutless to post
a real name?
-- 


Adam Eberbach      t9114145@phillip.edu.au          fnord
Computer Science student, Phillip Institute of Technology.
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: burgoyne@highlite.uucp (J. Robert Burgoyne)
Subject: Re: Help to buy a 1985 olds 98 sedan
Organization: Gotham Communications Research
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 04:49:54 GMT

hwang@mace.cc.purdue.edu (I-shiou Ng) writes:
: 	Last weekend, I found a 1985 Olds 98 with 110k on it. The owner asked
: $3500 for it. Cause I am not familar with the products of GM, so I want to ask
: some question from you.

Too expensive. Keep looking for other cars.

Robert
From: Larry.Mc.Donald@ofa123.Fidonet.org (Larry Mc Donald)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Compressors & Air To
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 92 07:23:00 PDT
Organization: Universal Electronics Inc. (Public access BBS)


EY>The rating is stamped on a metal plate riveted to the motor housing, HP is
EY>a meaningless term, but most people are not going to
EY>understand torque ratings.

   Horsepower = Torque * RPM * (A Constant, depending on units)

EY>comes out to about 2.4 hp. Better motors produce more torque at the same hp
EY>rating than cheaper ones. Your best bet is to get a compressor that is driven
EY>by a motor made by manufacturers that are recognized for their high quality.

   The only way to do this is by lowering RPM and keeping torque
constant. Better motors do have a higher service factor (reserve
power) than do cheaper ones. Check the label on the Sears unit
and I'll bet the service factor, if printed, is 1.0. This means
the motor is being used at its limits. Most industrial motors
come with 1.2 SF (for pumps, usually) and 1.5 (most other
applications). What this means is when Sears sells you a 1hp
motor, it's actually a 3/4hp with a 1.0SF.

EY>I do not know why you feel Sears products are inferior. Sears has used brand
EY>name venders for components in thier product for years. IMO

   The last Sears compressor I took apart had stamped sheet metal
connecting rods, with *NO* crank bearings. Not what I'd call top
notch, so to speak! They do tend to be worth about what Sears
asks for them, but then buying used industrial equipment for the
same price will get you better equipment with longer service to
you.

   Just my $0.02

___
 X OLX 2.1 X I don't have a solution but I admire the problem.


--  

Larry Mc Donald
Internet: Larry.Mc.Donald@ofa123.Fidonet.org
Compuserve: >internet:Larry.Mc.Donald@ofa123.Fidonet.org
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: kh@sei.cmu.edu (Kurt Haverstock)
Subject: Re: IT'S YOUR FAULT!
Organization: Software Engineering Institute
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 14:27:57 GMT

In article IT'S YOUR FAULT! of 23 Jul 92 21:42:30 GMT blosser_cy@lrc.edu writes:

>You filthy money-grubbing, rich capitalist pigs driving fast sports cars and
>gas-guzzling automobiles, polluting the air with the nauseating stench of ex
>haust, creating acid rain, and melting a gaping hole in the ever-diminishing
>ozone layer...it's all your fault this world is so f--ked up!!! If everybody
>got rid of their automobiles, we'd have a much nicer environment to leave to 
>our children!!!! 

Yeah, right.
Let's just trash our country's transportation infrastructure and start over.
As a result, we can all breathe much cleaner air while we wallow in the abject
poverty and filth brought about by the inability of millions of people to
get to work, buy food, transport goods, collect garbage, deliver mail and 
obtain medical care. Of course, the resulting de-industrialization 
of our nation will make the air even *cleaner*! 

Kurt


Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: erich.lim@cutting.hou.tx.us (Erich Lim) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: REPLACING EXHAUST SYSTEM
Date: 22 Jul 92 18:55:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: The Cutting Edge - Houston, TX - 713-466-1525
Reply-To: erich.lim@cutting.hou.tx.us (Erich Lim) 

  Go for a Dynomax exhaust.  They are cheaper, pretty good, and are all
aluminum.  I prefer Borla's over Dynomax, but the Dynomax's are cheaper
only because they aren't stainless steel.  The Borla's also are louder
and have a beefier sounding tone.  Other exhausts's around are Sebring,
Ansa, Monza, etc.  I don't know if they make one for an 87' Pathfinder.
You might want to put in a K&N Air Filter for another 2-3 h.p. and high
quality platinum spark plugs such as Splitfire's or NGK platinums.


 Erich Lim
    erich.lim@cutting.hou.tx.us
From: rakoczynskij@gtephx.UUCP (Jurek Rakoczynski)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: A new GM
Date: 22 Jul 92 17:43:51 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: AG Communication Systems, Phoenix, Arizona

In article <1992Jul21.182824.21349@cos.com>, bob1@cos.com (Bob Blackshaw) writes:
> 
> As a follow on to my last post. That Buick was owned by some
> company VP before I bought it. I got the feeling that it was
> not broken-in properly which would account for the oil
> consumption. Even when I got it at about 35,000 miles it
> used to be down a quart at each oil change (5000 miles). Had
> I had it from the beginning, I'm sure it would have shown
> better numbers at its 140,000 mile departure.
>
> Bob.

1 Qt oil / 5000 miles would make a lot of people jealous.  There is
nothing wrong with that oil usage and there are too many variables to
have lower usage and blame 1/5000 on "not broken-in properly".
-- 
Jurek Rakoczynski, AG Communication Systems, POB 52179, Phoenix, AZ. 85072
UUCP: ...!{ncar!noao!enuucp | att}!gtephx!rakoczynskij  Voice: +1 602 581 4867
Inet: gtephx!rakoczynskij@enuucp.eas.asu.edu              Fax: +1 602 582 7111
Inet: /DD.UN=J.RAKOCZYNSKI/O=GTE/PRMD=GTEMAIL/ADMD=TELEMAIL/C=US/@sprint.com
From: blosser_cy@lrc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: READ THIS! (wuz: IT'S YOUR FAULT!)
Date: 26 Jul 92 16:22:49 EDT
Organization: Lenoir-Rhyne College, Hickory, NC

> This has got to be a joke!!!

IT IS! IT IS! 

Too bad you people don't possess a sense of humor. Or are capable of detecting
harmless satire...I guess that sort of thing is lost when we're dealing with a
bunch of ignorant dweebs.

Tsk tsk. 

Your responses provided good entertainment...keep 'em coming. I look forward 2
'em every day.


Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: hempy@ms.uky.edu (David Hempy)
Subject: 81 Chevy LUV Diesel Longbed: should i buy?
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 02:41:38 GMT
Organization: University Of Kentucky, Dept. of Math Sciences

I'm loking at an '81 Chevy Luv Diesel longbed.  I hope to hear
from some people who have experience with them.  The woman selling
it is asking $850, and would probably take $800.  It has 91K miles,
and seems to run very solid.  It has a smashed front fender
and a wrinkled rear bumper, which can still tow.  ( I haven't even
looked at any trucks without dents ;-) )  It has a new set of tires.
Not much rust.  She says it gets 30mpg.

What do you think?  Sound like a truck that might run for a few years? (or
more 8-) )  Are diesel parts more expensive, scarce, or difficult to
replace?  Do diesel prices keep pace with gas?  Which costs more?
Is there anything in particular that I should check/look out for on 
this truck, or in diesels in general?

Thanks in advance,
-- 
David Hempy  <hempy@ms.uky.edu>                Ultralight IFR: I Follow Roads.
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: mperlman@nyx.cs.du.edu (Marshal "Airborne" Perlman)
Subject: Re: 1993 Camaro
Organization: University of Denver, Dept. of Math & Comp. Sci.
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 92 00:24:19 GMT

I can't say too much...but I've seen some pictures of the 93
Camaro..and they are not anything like those crappy C/D pictures...
--
==============================  *  Marshal Perlman               * DO
=-> mperlman@nyx.cs.du.edu <-=  *  Huntington Beach, California  * NOT
==============================  *  (Surf City, U.S.A)            * EAT
"It's the greenhouse effect, officer. That's why I am not wearing pants."
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: csroach@eng.clemson.edu (Shane Roach)
Subject: Re: Plastic radiator drain plugs
Organization: Clemson University
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1992 18:00:46 GMT

From article <1992Jul26.222830.14367@natinst.com>, by neilf@natinst.com (Neil Feiereisel):
> 1986 Ford Tempo in Austin, Texas (where it's *very* hot)
> 
> My tempo has a plastic radiator drain plug that comes in two pieces, the
> base piece that you snap into an opening in the bottom of the radiator, and
> a screw-in piece that screws in and out of the base piece. 
> 
> Doesn anybody have any ideas why it would be so easy to work it's way loose?
> Also, any ideas as to what I can do?  I don't want to have to replace the
> radiator because of a plastic drain plug!  These replacement drain plugs were
> made in Taiwan and purchased at the local auto parts store.  Perhaps a drain
> plug from Ford would be tougher and allow me to tighten it better?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> Neil
 
Hmmm, this sounds like a part someone designed just to see how many people he
could piss off with it.  I don't know if a plug from your friendly neighbor-
hood Ford dealer would be any better, but here's a suggestion:  Buy a new plug
and, before even thinking about screwing it into the drain hole, fuse the two
parts together with a drop or two of cyanoacrylate(CA) glue.  I wouldn't be
too surprised if plain old Super Glue did a fair job, but my bet would be to
check out the line of Zap CA's at the nearest decent hobby shop.  It may be a
bit pricier than Super Glue at Wal-Mart, but I have a friend who glued the
handle back onto a broken stainless steel spoon with the stuff.  And it stayed.
                
Hope this helps,
Shane Roach
csroach@eng.clemson.edu


Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty)
Subject: Re: M5 vs. Sports Cars
Organization: New York State Institute for Sebastian Cabot Studies
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 18:41:12 GMT

In article <1992Jul29.174615.25967@lmpsbbs.comm.mot.com> smith@comm.mot.com (Jeff Smith) writes:
>This is simply not true. While it may very well beat *last year's*
>'vette or the Nissan *in a straight line*, there's no way it could
>keep up on any sort of curvy road course. What is it with these
>one-dimensional dragster definitions of speed, anyway?!

actually, i've shared the odd road course or two with an M5 before,
(lime rock, summit point, watkins glen ...) and i kind of wonder if
you have the slightest idea what you're talking about.

there is an M3 here in the northeast (with a somewhat developed suspension)
which i have seen lap lime rock in 1:03, and an unmodified M5 which i
have seen lap lime rock in 1:05.  FYI, that's pretty goddamn fast.  the
top vette or or the top 300ZX might be a touch faster, but we are after all
talking about legitmate 4 seat sedans on the bmw side, here.

but the best vette, the best 300ZX, and the best bimmers are all very, very
competent cars, which renders this whole discussion tedious, childish,
and pointless.

cheers,
  richard
-- 
richard welty                            518-393-7228
welty@cabot.balltown.cma.com
  ``if you can read this, mario, you're too close''
    -- bumper sticker seen on a CART safety truck
From: mizutanit@wharton.upenn.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: BMW and Lexus: Feedback Wanted
Date: 28 Jul 92 17:36:23 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Pennsylvania

In article <1992Jul27.220836.10722@cgrg.ohio-state.edu>, frankie@osc.edu (Frankie Harris) writes:
> I may be in the market for a new car soon, and recently test drove a 
> 1991 BMW 535. Do any of you know anything about this auto (good, bad 
> characteristics, reliability), etc. I'd also like to find out what 
> a used Lexus (the larger sedan model) would cost (not sure how long
> the Lexus has been out but I'd only be interested in the oldest one). Same
> goes for a 1988 -1990 BWM 700 series model -- any idea of what one should
> cost.
> 
> In other words, I'm interested in used models of some of the more luxurious 
> cars since I can't afford them new :). Any input is appreciated.
> 
> Frankie

I've driven the BMW M5, which is a much more sport-oriented version of the
5-series sedan, but even the 535i should be an excellent handling car. It's
definitely more fun to drive with a 5-speed. As for bad things, the 535i does
no   et good gas mileage (~15 mpg in city), it's smaller inside than a Lexus or
a 7-series and the maintenance costs are extraordinarily high if you get it
serviced by a dealer ($40-60 for an oil change).

In the Philadelphia area, a 1990 Lexus LS400 from the local Lexus dealership
will cost about $30,000 to $34,000 depending on the mileage and the options.
The 1990 is the first year for Lexus. I'm not sure what kind of car you like
(in terms of driving characteristics), but the Lexus is much more like a
Mercedes in handling and ride than a BMW. They are quite different, and if you
prefer the ride and the sharp handling of a BMW, this is not your car.

The 7-series BMWs are larger than the 5-series cars, and thus their gas mileage
figures are even worse. However, this car's depreciation rate is very high for
the first few years. You can buy a low-mileage 1988 BMW 750iL for about $29,000
in Philadelphia! If you can afford it, the 750iL is the car to get. You can get
one for a decent price, and the power and smoothness of a V-12 truly make the
car an exquisite piece of work.

A 1990 535i around here goes for ~$30,000- they hold their value better than
the 7-series.

Taka