From: tittle@ics.uci.edu (Cindy Tittle Moore)
Subject: rec.pets.dogs:  Assorted Topics FAQ
X-Last-Updated: 1992/08/10
Followup-To: poster
Supersedes: <dogs-faq/misc1_711435611@athena.mit.edu>
Reply-To: tittle@ics.uci.edu
Organization: University of California at Irvine: ICS Dept.
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 05:04:01 GMT

Archive-name: dogs-faq/misc1
Version: 2.3
Last-modified: 10 August 1992

This is one (of eight) of the FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) Lists
for rec.pets.dogs.  It is posted on a monthly basis: updates,
additions, and corrections (including attributions) are always
welcome: send email to one of the addresses below.

The eight parts are all archived at pit-manager.mit.edu (18.172.1.27)
in the directory /pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq.  The files are:
introduction, new, health-care, training, working, AKC-titles, misc1,
and references.  To obtain the files, first try ftp to
pit-manager.mit.edu and look under that directory.  If ftp does not
work from your site, then try the mail server: send email to
mail-server@pit-manager.mit.edu with

send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/introduction
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/new
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/health-care
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/training
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/working
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/AKC-titles
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/misc1
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/references

in the body of the message (leave the subject line empty).  If you
don't want all of them, include only the lines of the ones you want.
You do have to repeat the path information for each file.

Changes are marked with |'s.  
The topics below were alphabetized and reordered accordingly.  The
discussion on pet sitting and kenneling got its own section (moved out
from Travel).

VII.  Assorted Topics.

  A.  A New Baby.
  B.  Breeding.
  C.  Crate Training.
  D.  Docking and Cropping.
  E.  Facts and Opinions about Neutering.
  F.  Finding a Home for a Dog.
  G.  Invisible and Electric Fences.
  H.  Owner Allergies.
  I.  Pet Doors.
  J.  Pet Identification and Theft.
  K.  Pet Insurance.
  L.  Pet Sitting and Kennel Services.
  M.  Record Keeping.
  N.  Removing Odors and Stains.
  O.  Travel and International Travel.
  P.  Wolves and Wolf Hybrids.



A.  A New Baby.

Introduce the dog to all the new things you get for a new baby: let it
investigate the crib, baby clothes and that sort of thing.  Dogs
generally seem to know that something is up, especially as the woman
gets closer to her time.

After the baby is born, but before you bring it home, see if you can
take something home for the dog to smell, like a blanket or an
undershirt the baby had on.  Let the dog smell it thoroughly.

When the baby comes home, try to hold everything else normal, feeding
time, any morning walks, the like.  When you bring the baby in, put
the dog on a down-stay and introduce the dog to the baby.  Have one of
the parents hold the baby in their lap and let the dog sniff the baby.
Let it lick the baby if you're up to that, but do NOT let the dog
nuzzle (push with its nose) or paw at the baby.  It is important to
introduce the dog to the baby.  This makes it clear to the dog that
the baby is a new member of the pack.  If you exclude the dog from the
baby, it may try to attack this "non-member" to protect its pack.

Include the dog in the daily routine with the baby.  Give it the same,
if not a little more, amount of attention it always got.  You do not
want it to feel like it has been displaced or ignored in favor of the
baby.


B.  Breeding.

There are several things you need to consider before breeding your
dog, mostly having to do with health and temperament checks.  The two
biggest problems with dogs are eye disorders (which are problems in
all breeds) and hip dysplasia (a problem in many larger breeds).
Before breeding your dog you need to rule out problems in these areas
or you may bring into the world a litter of blind or crippled puppies.

This section is here to underscore the seriousness of breeding dogs.
Please do NOT breed your dog "for the money" or "to see the wonders of
birth and life" or some similar nonsense.  Breeding is expensive, and
good breeders rarely make money on their dogs.  The "wonders of birth
and life" can turn tragically if any die; if the bitch has her puppies
at the vet, the kids certainly won't see it.

Responsible breeding is a major undertaking, and seriously requires a
good amount of research to understand what you are getting into.  You
need to be up on genetics, especially for your breed,  you need to be
familiar, not only with the breed standard, but its faults and its
likely medical problems.  You need to be able to detect a variety of
problems that can arise during pregnancy and during the pups first few
weeks.  You should find yourself a mentor, a person who has already
been breeding for a while and who can give you good advice.

Breeding is in no way a profitable activity, unless you completely cut
out all concern for the health of the dam and puppies -- in which case
you certainly are not improving the dogs in any way and are doing your
customers no favor by passing along inferior pups.

1.  Medical problems (genetic)

Eye problems include PRA, which doesn't usually show up until the dog
is 4 years old, cataracts, and retinal dysplasia.  These are
hereditary conditions and in some cases cause blindness.  In the case
of PRA, the pedigree needs to be studied, and if there are any
carriers of the disease on her pedigree, you must choose a stud dog
whose pedigree is free of any problems.  PRA is a recessive gene, so
in order to be affected the puppy needs to get a gene from each
parent.  It's a devastating disease in that it causes total blindness.

Hip problems are more likely.  There is a hip certification process
that breeders adhere to, and have their dogs certified free of the
disease by OFA.  OFA will not certify a dog until that dog is 2 years
old so it's best to wait until that age to certify and then breed if
all is well.  They grade the hips as a passing grade of Excellent,
Good, or Fair, or a non-passing grade (meaning DO NOT BREED this dog)
of Borderline, Mild, Moderate, or Severe hip dysplasia.  Even if your
dog's parents are OFA certified you need to certify its hips as well.
In a breeding of OFA certified parents, you will get a range in the
quality of the dogs' hips.  Even the worst aren't likely to show any
symptoms of hip dysplasia, at least not as young dogs, but if you
breed two borderline dogs together you may get a litter of crippled
dogs.

Classic hip dysplasia starts at 4-6 months when the puppy starts
limping and having trouble getting up and sitting down.  You take the
puppy to the vet and have $100 in tests and xrays done to find out the
dog has hip dysplasia.  You may be referred to specialists to
determine whether there is anything that can be done.  Sometimes they
can do hip replacement surgery at $1500/hip, sometimes they can't and
your only choice is to get the dog put to sleep.  This to stress the
importance of getting the proper health clearances on your dog before
you breed, or you may do the puppies a serious injustice.

Your veterinarian or an experienced breeder can steer you to a good
vet to take hip xrays to submit to OFA, and a veterinary
ophthalmologist who can check your dog's eyes for you.  Never forget
that both the bitch AND the dog must go through all these checks
before breeding.

Other breeds have a tendency toward other specific medical problems
(hip and eye are simply the most common): you need to know what is
prone in your breed and take steps to minimize and eliminate it.

2.  Other medical problems

You must make sure the bitch and the stud both are free from
brucellosis before breeding them.  Brucellosis causes eventual
sterility in both sexes (sometimes non-obviously)and can cause a
litter of puppies to be aborted or die shortly after birth.  In
addition, brucellosis is transmissible to humans via saliva and thus is
a major health problems as it can disrupt human immune system and also
cause sterility.  Between dogs, it is most commonly passed in sexual
intercourse, although an entire kennel can be infected through contact
with secretions.  (See Health Care Issues for more detail.)

3.  Temperament 

Never breed any animal that shows temperament problems.  In
particular, this has been the cause of the degeneration of many
breed's general temperament: Dobermann Pinschers, Rottweilers, and so
on.  If your animal is untrustworthy around people, overly aggressive
to people, excitable, or is a fear-biter, do not breed it.  If it is
excessively shy or submissive, don't breed it.  Look for happy,
spirited and obedient animals.

4.  Selecting the stud or bitch

You must carefully consider each dog's pedigree for compatibility.
Try to select strengths to offset weaknesses.  Do not allow your bitch
to be bred to an unsuitable dog, and conversely, be picky about the
bitches you allow your dog to breed.  This phase alone requires
considerable research to find a suitable candidate.  Be honest with
yourself.  If your dog is not a good representation of its breed, do
not let it reproduce.  It is much easier to improve a few faults than
to try and get excellent pups with a mediocre dog.  Check the breed
standard for your dog and ask a knowledgeable person for their
evaluation of your dog.

5.  Overbreeding

Ideally, a bitch should only be bred every other year.  However, even
at maximum, you want to allow at least one unbred season between
breedings.  This allows your bitch to rest and regain her strength.
If you *are* breeding a bitch this frequently or more, why?  There are
too many puppies as it is.  The health of both your bitch and your
puppies are compromised with too many pregnancies.

6.  Care of the pregnant bitch

You should make sure the bitch is up-to-date on all her vaccinations,
medications, and shots before she is bred.

She will require special food to help with the developing fetuses.
In particular, a dam that does not get supplementary food during the
last three weeks or so will have weaker puppies that are more likely
to die shortly thereafter.

She should be under the care of a vet for any related problems.  Dogs
can have miscarriages.  Illnesses, diseases, or infestations that the
bitch picks up during her pregnancy can affect the puppies.
Difficulties during whelping are entirely possible, and the rule for
some breeds.  You must be prepared to get her to the vet quickly in an
emergency.  Puppies also like to be born around oh-dark-thirty.  The
joy of birth can easily turn into tragedy if the bitch or any of the
puppies die -- and this is always a very real possibility.

There are instances of "mummy puppies" where you have a puppy whose
development went awry, but it was not aborted.  Instead, it dries and
shrivels up, and when born, looks like a mummified puppy, blackened
and ready to rot.  Overbreeding and inadequate care are usually the
causes.  It is quite likely that the dam will come down with an
infected uterus after such a puppy.

Other congenital (but not genetic) defects can include: no anus
(surgery required), cleft palates and hare lips (surgery needed).

7.  Caring for the puppies

You will have to make sure that they stay healthy.  They will need
worming.  If the mother dies, you will have to nurse them -- this is a
round-the-clock (every three hours) exhausting effort -- and you must
take even more precautions as the puppies may be deprived of the
immunizing effects of the mother's initial milk.  There are a variety
of problems that can affect puppies: some of which you can head off
with proper preventive care, you need to learn to recognize these.
You must begin initial socialization to help ensure good temperaments.
All in all, puppies are intensive, time consuming little creatures.

You will have to find a place to keep the puppies.  They can destroy a
room or a garage in hours once they start moving around.  Are you
prepared for this?  Do you have a place to keep them safely that still
allows them to be properly socialized?

8.  Placing the puppies

After the puppies are born, if not before, you must consider placing
your puppies.  Time and time again, people breed a litter because
friends and family want one of their dog's puppies -- and then none of
them will take one.  

Are you prepared to do some legwork to find GOOD homes for them, not
just hand them off to the first person who comes by?  You are aware
that you won't be able to sell all of your puppies locally, aren't
you?  What assurances do you have that the puppies will not wind up
filling animal shelters, facing death because their parents were
thoughtlessly bred?  Suppose you wind up keeping more of the litter
than you intended to?  Can you keep the extra puppies?


C.  Crating.

Crating is a controversial topic.  There are those who believe that
crate training is indefensible and others who believe that it is a
panacea.  The reality is likely somewhere in between.
  
1.  What does the dog think?

First, you must understand what the crate represents to the dog.  Dogs
are by nature den creatures -- and the crate, properly introduced, is
its den.  It is a safe haven where it does not need to worry about
defending territory.  It is its own private bedroom which it
absolutely will not soil if it can help it.  Judicious use of the
crate can alleviate a number of problems, stop others from ever
developing, and aid substantially in housetraining.

Where is the crate?  It should be around other people.  Ideally, set
it up in the bedroom near you.  Have the dog sleep in it at night.
Dogs are social and like to be around their people.  Don't force it
into the crate.  Feed your dog in the crate.  

2.  Prices and recommendations

A plastic airline approved (leakproof) crate will run from $10 to $75
depending on the size.  These are the cheapest prices available.  Wal
Mart and their wholesale store, Sams, sell these crates cheaply.  Pet
stores may be much more expensive.  If flying with a dog, most
airlines will sell a crate at near-wholesale prices.  Vendors at dog
shows often have good prices.  Pet stores sell them at astronomical
prices.

Mail order stores also have competitive prices, and they also sell
wire mesh cages.  Wire mesh is comparable in price to plastic airline
crates, but the crates are sized according to their outside
dimensions.  Because of the shape of plastic crates and the plastic
lip that runs around their middle, a plastic crates' interior bottom
surface may be substantially smaller than the exterior of the crate.
A 36" long Pet Taxi has a floor that is 30 or 32" long.

Wire cages are not as appealing to dogs that like the safe, enclosed
nature of a crate, but they have better ventilation for use in warm
places (plastic crates have ventilation holes also, but there is a
difference).  You might, for example, have a plastic crate in your
house and a wire one for the car.

The crate should be large enough for the dog to lie down, stand up and
turn around in comfortably, but not large enough for the dog to
relieve itself at one end and sleep at the other.  You may buy a crate
sized for an adult dog and block off part of it with a chew-proof
obstacle until the dog grows into it, or you may buy a succession of
crates as the dog grows.

3.  Proper use of a crate

Crating a puppy or dog often seems unappealing to humans, but it is
not cruel to the dog.  A dog's crate is similar to a child's playpen,
except it has a roof (dogs can jump out of a playpen) and is
chewproof.  Also, a crate is not suitable for activity or exercise,
but rather for rest.  Dogs are carnivores and do not need to be
constantly active during the daytime, like people (as gatherers) do.

If a crate is properly introduced to a dog (or puppy) the dog
will grow to think of the crate as its den and safe haven.  Most dogs
that are frequently crated will often use the open crate as a resting
place.

The major use of a crate is to prevent the dog from doing something
wrong and not getting corrected for it.  It is useless to correct a
dog for something that it has already done; the dog must be "caught in
the act".  If the dog is out of its crate while unsupervised, it may
do something wrong and not be corrected, or worse yet, corrected after
the fact.  If the dog is not corrected, the dog may develop the
problem behavior as a habit (dogs are creatures of habit), or learn
that the it can get away with the behavior when not immediately
supervised.  A dog that rarely gets away with anything will not learn
that if nobody is around it can get away with bad behaviors.

If the dog is corrected after the fact, it will not associate the
correction with the behavior, and will begin to think that corrections
are arbitrary, and that the owner is not to be trusted.  This results
in a poorer relationship and a dog that does not associate
corrections, which are believed arbitrary, with bad behaviors even
when they are applied in time.  This cannot be overemphasized: a dog's
lack of trust in its owner's corrections is one of the major sources
of problems between dogs and their owners.

A secondary advantage of a crate is that it minimizes damage done by a
dog (especially a young one) to the house, furniture, footwear etc.
This reduces costs and aggravation and makes it easier for the dog and
master to get along.  It also protects the dog from harm by its
destruction: ingestion of splinters or toy parts, shock from chewing
through wires, etc.

A young dog should be placed in its crate whenever it cannot
be supervised.  Generally this means when nobody is home.  

If a dog is trained in puppyhood with a crate, it will not always
require crating.  Puppies or untrained dogs require extensive crating.
After a year or so of crate training, many dogs will know what to do
and what not to, and will have good habits.  At this time crating
might only be used when the dog needs to be out of the way, or when
traveling.

4.  Introduction to a crate

Puppies are easier to put in crates than older dogs.  Much of what is
printed here may be unnecessary for a puppy.

Before a dog is locked into a crate, the dog must be as comfortable
with it as possible.  If a dog is put into a crate while it is afraid
of the crate, the dog's fear may build while inside and the resulting
trauma may be impossible to overcome.

To make a dog comfortable, the dog must first learn not to
fear it, and then to like it.  To alleviate fear, the following things
can be tried.

  * Put treats or food into the crate for the dog.  Start near the
    mouth of the crate, and then move the treats farther inside each
    time.
  * Leave the door off the crate at first.  The door can swing shut on
    the dog while the dog's head is in the crate, startling the dog
    with the contact and the strange sound.
  * Possibly get the dog used to part of the crate.  For instance,
    take the top half of the crate off and use all these tricks to get
    the dog used to that alone, then repeat the process with the whole
    crate.
  * If the crate is big enough, get in yourself.  (seriously!)
  * Get the dog excited about a toy and throw it in the crate for the
    dog to chase.
  * Think of the crate as a good thing yourself.  Dogs are good at
    reading their master's attitudes.  Never (ever) use the crate as a
    punishment.
  * Once the dog will go into the crate, feed the dog its meals in the
    crate.

Once the dog is unafraid of the crate, put the dog inside and close
the door.  Immediately lavish the dog with praise and food for a short
time, then let the dog out.  Do not, at this time, leave the dog alone
in the crate, or the dog will associate the crate with your leaving.
Also, before the dog is fully acclimated, it may grow panicky if left
in the crate long.
    
Finally, put the dog inside for progressively longer periods of time,
always praising the dog as it goes in, and perhaps giving treats.

5.  Crating do's and don'ts

  * Do think of the crate as a good thing.  In time, your dog will
    too.
  * Do let the dog out often enough so that it is never forced to soil
    the crate.
  * Do let the dog out if it whines because it needs to eliminate.  If
    you know it doesn't have to eliminate, correct it for whining or
    barking.
  * Don't punish the dog if it soils the crate.  It is miserable
    enough and probably had to.
  * Don't use the crate as a punishment.
  * Don't leave the dog in the crate for a long time after letting it
    eat and drink a lot.  (because the dog will be uncomfortable and
    may have to eliminate in the crate.)
  * Don't leave the dog in the crate too much.  Dogs sleep and rest a
    lot, but not all the time.  They need play time and exercise.
  * Don't check to see if your dog is trustworthy in the house
    (unsupervised, outside of the crate) by letting the dog out of the
    crate for a long time.  Start with very short periods and work
    your way up to longer periods.
  * Don't ever let the dog grow unaccustomed to the crate.  An
    occasional stint even for the best behaved dog will make traveling
    and special situations that require crating easier.
  * Don't put pillows or blankets in the crate without a good reason.
    Most dogs like it cooler than their human companions and prefer to
    stretch out on a hard, cool surface.  Besides providing a place to
    urinate on, some dogs will simply destroy them.  A rubber mat or a
    piece of peg-board cut to the right size might be a good
    compromise.


D.  Docking and Cropping.

Docking is the practice of removing a dog's tail.  Cropping is the
removal of a good portion of its ears so that they stand up.
Typically, these procedures are done when the dog is very young,
several weeks of age.

The practices have their origin hundreds of years ago when dogs were
cropped and docked to prevent injury to those extremities.  Ears can
be vulnerable in fights, tails can be vulnerable to underbrush when
hunting.  For certain breeds, docking and cropping is required by the
breed standard.  The exception is in countries that outlaw the
practice, such as the United Kingdom and Australia.

Today, there is little practical use for docking and cropping a dog.
There are movements to change breed standards to reflect this,
although some people feel very strongly the other way.

There is at least one practical reason to have some hunting dogs'
tails docked.  A hunter once described his experiences with a hunting
dog he decided not to dock -- and was horrified several years later
with the sores that the dog would pick up on hunting trips.  He then
had the tail docked, but of course the procedure is more painful to an
adult dog.  If your dog does not hunt, this is moot.


E.  Facts and Opinions about Neutering.

Remember, "neutering" can refer both to spaying bitches or castrating
dogs.  An "intact" bitch or dog is one that has not been neutered.

1.  Practical reasons for keeping your dog intact

  * Conformation showing requires dogs and bitches to be intact.
  * Breeding stock (obviously) must remain intact

2.  Practical reasons for neutering your dog

  * Not a show-quality or breeding-quality dog.
  * It is a working dog (such as Seeing Eye or Guide dog) and must
    not be distracted by the opposite sex.
  * Medical and health benefits.
  * Its breeding days are over.

3.  Definite myths about neutering

"My bitch will become fat and lazy if I spay her."  Not true.  If you
hold to the same exercise and feeding schedule after surgery that you
did before surgery, her weight and activity will not change except as
a normal function of aging.  Bitches that become lazy after spaying do
so because of YOUR expectations: you take her out less because you
think she's lazier, and so around and around it goes.  Remember, too,
that the age at which many bitches are spayed (6-8 months) is also the
age at which they begin to settle down from puppyhood into adulthood.
Studies done on early neutering (at 8-10 weeks) show that such puppies
remain on par behaviorally with their unneutered counterparts.  If
anything, they are often *more* active than their unneutered
counterparts.

"I want her to have one litter before spaying because that will
improve her personality."  This is not true.  Clinical studies show no
permanent changes occur as a result of pregnancy.  Behavioral changes
that do occur are an effect of hormonal levels and lactation and are
strictly temporary.  If your behavior toward her does not change from
before her pregnancy, her behavior will not change, either.

4.  Ethical considerations over neutering

4.1. What is your goal with neutering your dog or leaving it intact?  

Unless you know what you want to do with your dog, it may be difficult
to make the decision to neuter.  You must take into account how you
will prevent unwanted breeding so long as your animal is intact.  For
example, you must not let it roam.  You must have it under control at
all times.

Neutering your dog will not solve behavioral problems.  Solving
behavioral problems is a matter of training.  Both intact and
neutered animals, properly trained, make fine housepets.

Neutering your dog does guarantee that you will have no unwanted
puppies.  It does guarantee that *certain behaviors* related to
reproduction will be eliminated.  This includes dog interest in the
heat-scent, and bitch agitation during heat.  It eliminates certain
physical manifestations in the bitch, such as discharge from the
vulva.  It reduces the incidence of urine marking, mounting, and
intermale aggression in male dogs.  Interestingly enough, the *age* at
which an animal is neutered does not affect the likelihood that
neutering will have an impact on a particular behaviors.  *Experience*
seems to play more of a role in determining which behaviors are
retained.  That is, if habits have been established, neutering is not
likely to alter them.

Behavior patterns common to both males and females, such as protective
barking, playfulness, and attention-seeking are not affected by
neutering.  No basic personality or behavior changes occur as a result
of neutering, except that undesirable male behaviors may be reduced
or eliminated.

Early neutering (at 8-10 weeks) does not appear to have adverse
affects on dogs.  In fact, they are often more active than their
intact counterparts, and they grow a little bit larger than their
intact counterparts.

It is possible to sterilize dogs without neutering.  This means
severing the vas deferens in the dog and the fallopian tubes in the
bitches.  There is no change in behavior because the hormones have not
been altered: the dogs are still interested in bitches and the bitches
will still go through heat.  However, they will be sterile.  You may
have to look hard to find a vet that will do this, as it is uncommon.

If you intend to breed, the decision is easy.  If you are putting your
dog to other work, you may be worried about negative or positive
behavioral changes from neutering in your dog affecting its work.  If
you simply have a pet you do not wish to breed, neutering is entirely
appropriate.

4.2.  What are the medical advantages/dangers of spaying and neutering?

Medical advantages: 

Your bitch is no longer subject to reproductive cancers, such as
mammary cancer (the most common tumor of the sexually intact bitch).
Bitches spayed prior to their first estrus have about 0.5 percent risk
of developing mammary cancer.  If spaying is delayed for one to two
heat periods, the chance of developing a tumor jumps 8-26 percent.
Bitches spayed later than this remain at the same level of risk, 8-26
percent.  The incidence of pyometra is eliminated in spayed bitches.
Pyometra is a common disease of intact bitches, particularly in
bitches over 6 years of age, although it can occur at any age.

Your dog is less at risk from prostate disease and testicular cancer,
both of which can be life-threatening.  Even non-malignant growths are
a threat because the growth can cause infection that can eventually
kill your dog.

Medical disadvantages: 

General anesthesia is a risk to any dog.  A small percentage of spayed
bitches may develop estrogen imbalances in later life that causes
incontinence (or rather, "leaking"), which is easily controlled with
dosages of estrogen.  There are no medical disadvantages (other than
anesthetic risk) to male dogs.

4.3.  What are the psychological effects on your dog?

There is wide disagreement over this, but there are various relevant
facts to note.

First, neutered dogs are no longer concerned with reproduction.  This
is a psychological effect, but the extent of it is confined to its
behavior with respect to heat.

The argument is often over whether or not neutered dogs remain
"aggressive."  In particular, guard dogs and working dogs are often
thought to lose something by neutering.  This is counterable with
specific examples: e.g., Seeing Eye dogs are always neutered and they
are fine, working dogs.  There are many neutered animals that are
dominant over intact animals.  For each claim made about the effect of
neutering an animal, a counter-example can be cited.  This means that
the effect of neutering is largely dependent on the individual dog.
And, most likely, because dogs are so attuned to their owners,
dependent on the owner.  Dogs are very good at picking up
expectations: if you *expect* your dog to mellow after neutering, it
probably will, whether or not the neutering was actually responsible
for it.

The question also arises over whether dogs "miss" sex or not.  Insofar
as neutered animals never display interest in sex afterwards, the
argument is fairly strong that dogs do not miss their sexual
capability.  "Humping" is a dominance related behavior that any alpha
dog, of either sex, intact or neutered, will engage in.

4.4.  What are the ethical issues?  

There is a good deal of controversy over the practice of neutering
animals.  Please note that some viewpoints are culturally determined:
for example, many countries in Europe, especially Scandinavian ones,
do not have any sort of pet population problem; whereas in the US,
millions of dogs are put to sleep annually because of uncontrolled and
thoughtless reproduction.  Thus, any debate over the relative ethics
of neutering dogs must be careful to keep the background of the debate
participants in mind.  Your personal decision should also take this
factor, as well as others, in making that decisions.  In brief, here
is a summary, pro and con, of the various opinions and points that
proponents of either side make.

     PRO                               CON

Neutering prevents unwanted         You can control your own dog's 
puppies.                            reproduction.

It prevents certain behaviors       You can control your dog; again,
such as roaming, being in heat      why should we take something away
going after bitches in heat.        from the dog?

There are medical benefits to       There are valid moral objections
neutering.                          to "tampering" with your dog.

Neutered dogs are content with      Who wants to have neutering possibly
established pack orders.            affect your dog's abilities.

Dominance is unrelated to intact-   But there are also cases where the
ness; many neutered animals are     dog lost some edge.
just as, if not more so, energetic
determined and aggressive as their
intact counterparts.

Many bitches perform the same       But why take the chance on an 
duties as well as dogs;             individual dog's temperament 
testosterone is not the magic       changing?
ingredient, training and 
individual temperament is.

5.  References

Hart BL. "Effects of neutering and spaying on the behavior of dogs and
cats: Questions and answers about practical concerns," in JAVMA
1991;198:1204-1205.

Houpt KA, Coren B, Hintz et al.  "Effects of sex and reproductive
status on sucrose preference, food intake, and body weight of dogs,"
in JAVMA 1979; 174:1083-1085.

Johnson SD.  "Questions and answers on the effects of surgically
neutering dogs and cats," in JAVMA 1991;198:1206-1213.

LeRoux PH.  Thyroid status, oestradiol level, work performance and
body mass of ovariectomised bitches and bitches bearing ovarian
autotransplants in the stomach wall.  J S Afr Vet Assoc
1977;48:115-117.

Marrion, Ruth, DMV.  "New Views on Neutering," in _Purebred
Dogs/American Kennel Gazette_, April 1992 (pp50-54).

Salmeri KR, Bloomberg MS, Scruggs SL, Shille V.  Gonadectomy in
immature dogs: Effects on skeletal, physical, and behavioral
development.  JAVMA 1991;198:1193-1203.

Salmeri KR, Olson PN, Bloomberg MS.  Elective gonadectomy in dogs: A
review.  JAVMA 1991;198:1183-1191.

Thrusfield MV.  Association between urinary incontinence and spaying
bitches.  Vet Rec. 1985;116:695.


F.  Finding a Home for a Dog.

For whatever reason, you may need to find a home for a dog.  List
everywhere: newspaper, bulletin boards, computer bulletin boards,
newsletters, anywhere you like.  But limit sharply: don't adopt out if
they don't meet standards.  Minimal standards: will neuter as soon as
the dog's old enough, committed to a 20 year responsibility, they have
a home or apartment that permits pets, knowledgeable about dog health
and behavior or committed to become so.  Do charge a nominal fee, at
least US$30, unless you know the adopter well; this keeps away those
collecting animals for research.  (You can donate all or part of the
money to animal causes if you like.)

If the animal is a purebred, you might lookup the breed rescue
organization for it.


G.  Invisible and Electric Fences.

|There are a variety of fences that are called invisible fences.  Each
|is detailed below.
|
|1.  The Invisible Fence
|
|This is an arrangement where electric wire is buried around the
|property and the dog wears a collar that shocks it if it gets too
|close to the electric wire.  This kind of a "fence" does not depend on
|the presence of a physical fence, although it could certainly augment
|one.  Points to consider:
|
|  * You must *train* the dog to understand what is going on, you can't
|    just expect to put it on and have it work.
|  * This does not prevent other dogs (or people) from coming in and
|    bothering your dog, unless it is supplemented by a physical fence.
|  * If your dog somehow gets outside the perimeter of the fence with
|    its collar on, it will be shocked when attempting to *re-enter*!
|    (The collar will not shock the dog beyond a given distance regardless
|    of which side the dog is on.)
|
|2.  Electric fences
|
|Many owners, when faced with a dog that persistently digs out or
|scales the backyard fence, will run a "hot" wire along the bottom of
|the fence or along the top of the fence.  This often works quite well,
|to the point where the presence of the wire, whether hot or not, will
|deter escape.  Points to consider:
|
|  * You should *not* shock puppies.  Wait until the dog is fully grown.
|  * For digging, bury the wire under the fence.  The depth will depend
|    on how deep your dog is willing to dig.
|  * For scaling the fence, run it along the top of the fence.  If the
|    dog is jumping the fence, you will either need to make the fence
|    taller, or try the invisible fence method.
|  * This is not foolproof, dogs have been known to get around these, too.
|  * Do not make a fence solely of electrified wires.  They should be
|    put up on wooden fences.


H.  Owner Allergies.

You can go to an allergy specialist and get shots to help you with
specific allergies.  This can be expensive, but worth it, especially
if you have other allergies as well.  They'll test you for the things
you're allergic to, and then give you periodic shots to help you
develop an appropriate immunity to them.

Different breeds may work for different people who have allergy
problems.  It depends on exactly what it is about dogs that causes the
|problem.  Some people are allergic to the hair, but others are
|allergic to the dander.  Still others are not specifically allergic to
|dogs, but are allergic to things like dust and the dogs provide an
|*additional* amount that is sufficent when combined with other
|allergens to provoke a reaction.  You must find out which is true for
|your case.

Some people do well with Basenjis and Miniature Pincers and other dogs
with little or no coat.  Others do well with poodles and schnauzers
and airedales who have a different type of coat.  A lot of people do
well with Shih Tzus and Lhasa Apsos who, while very hairy, are
supposed to have hair much more like human hair.

Every dog lover with allergy problems needs to spend some time with
different breeds to find the one that doesn't aggravate the problem.
In many cases, bathing the dog frequently, cleaning the bedding,
vacumming and closing off your bedroom will help alleviate allergy
problems.

There is also a spray available that you put on the dog that is
supposed to reduce the amount of allergens they shed called Allerpet/D
Most pet stores carry the stuff, and the bottle has an 800 number you
can call for more information.
 

I.  Pet Doors.

Some points:

1. Get one that has at least magnetic strips to hold the door shut.
In colder climates, you might want to consider a "double door", i.e,
the outer door must close before the inner one opens.  This would cut
down on the drafts.

2. Size is deceptive.  Dogs don't really need as much space as you
might think to get in and out.

3. Installation is usually very easy.  Some models fit into patio
doors and are removable.  Make sure the one you get is lockable or
blockable.  If the door is hollow-core, it is trickier, because then
you have to insert a frame in the door for the pet door to attach to.

4. The wall between your garage and house is considered a 'fire wall'
and you're not supposed to cut any holes in it.  In particular, it
could make fire insurance claims tricky.

5. Install the door in such a place as to make it impossible for
someone to push something through it to open a door or window, even if
they can't crawl through themselves.

Johnson pet doors are frequently recommended.  RC Steele stocks them. 
Another source is America's Pet Door Store (1-800-826-2871).

There exist electronic pet doors that are activated by a special
collar.  Most of these are for cats, but there are models for dogs up
to 110lbs.

Some dogs need coaxing to use the door.  Prop the door open and offer
a treat from the other side.  Don't try and push your dog through.


J.  Pet Identification and Theft.

There are several steps you can take to increase the chances of your
dog being returned to you if lost, or to decrease the chances of your
dog being stolen.

1.  Pet tags

By far the most important piece of information on your pet's tag is
your telephone number, including the area code.  Everything else is
just optional.  Some people do not like to put their dog's name on the
collar, as that can make it easier for a thief to coax your dog along
knowing its name.  The choice is up to you.  Attach the tag to your
dog's collar securely.  Do not use the "S" hooks -- many tags are lost
that way.  Use the keyring type of attachment, or better yet, have the
tag riveted onto the collar.

Of course, one problem with tags is that they are easily removed.

2.  Tattooing
    
Get your dog tattooed.  Tattoos cannot be removed or lost.  This will
help identify your dog and get it returned to you (most animal
shelters will not destroy a tattooed dog).  It helps deter theft and
ensures that your pet will not wind up in a laboratory somewhere.
Your vet can give you pointers to someone who can tattoo your pet.  RC
Steele sells a do-it-yourself kit, worth considering if you have
multiple dogs and/or breed.

Tattooing is an excellent way to protect your pets.  In fact, there
are animal science laboratories and vet clinics around the country
that sponsor low-cost tattoo clinics and tattoo "fairs."

Get the tattoo put on the inside of your dog's thigh.  This is much
harder to remove than one placed in your pet's ear.

You must get the tattoo number registered, or it isn't very useful in
locating you.  If you use the National Dog Registry, use a number
that will not change.  (Social security numbers are good.)  There is a
one-time fee for registering the number, and you can then register
other pets with the same number -- either free, or for a lesser fee
(call them on this).

So, tattoo: NDR XXX-XX-XXXX.  Certain breed registries require dogs be
tattooed with a litter number or registration number.  So you might
also add: AKC: XXXXXXX.  That way you fit both the AKC requirement to
have permanent ID on your dogs and you only have to register your SSN
once with NDR for $35 dollars and all your dogs can have the same
number on them.

Unfortunately, tattoos can fade over time.

3.  Microchip ID

An alternative, that is used in Canada, and increasingly in the US is
an injected microchip.The microchip contains a numbering system that
is accessed by many local animal shelters & vet hospitals in the San
Francisco Bay Area.  Each microchip has a 10 digit alpha/numeric code
that is assigned to you (or your kennel) and your pet. The code is
kept on file at Info Pet (US) [what is the Canadian counterpart?] on
computer and is readily available.  Some of the information that is
kept on file are extra emergency numbers to have contacted should your
pet be impounded or taken to an animal hospital due to injury or
illness. Your vet's name & number are also included along with any
important medical info about your animal. This is important for animals
that have life threatening medical condition that need constant
treatment. With more animal shelters going to short holding times, you
may miss catching your animal at a shelter before it is put to sleep
or in some cases sold to an animal broker who most likely will resell
your pet to a research facility.

Not all shelters check for the chip, but increasing numbers are doing
so in the US.  There are no documented cases of medical problems
related to the insertion of the chip just under the skin.  Considering
that tattoos can fade over time, this is an alternative to consider.
It takes about 2 minutes to insert the chip and fill out the form.
After that, all you have to do is pay yearly dues. Info Pet may not be
active in your state yet, they have services in California and Oregon,
and most of the New England states with a few in the midwest area. You
can give them a call at 1-800-463-6738. [what are the canadian
counterparts?]

4.  Thefts

Animal thefts do happen, this is a fear of pet owners everywhere.
First of all, if your dog is missing or stolen, you have a
responsibility to report it to the police.  They may not always be
able to do anything about it, but if they get several reports, then
they can justify putting some time on it.  Don't make the mistake of
thinking that you are bothering the police!

Call the shelters, call the local vets and tell them of your loss,
they can be on the lookout for your dog.  Most vets will take a
description of your dog and contact others in the area to keep an eye
out for it.  Put up flyers in the immediate area.  If your dog has
been tattooed or micro-chipped, it may show up shortly.


K.  Pet Insurance.

Pet insurance plans are typically accident policies, although some
also cover routined medical expenses such as worming and shots (or even
grooming) -- the latter are generally a better deal.

Between the deductibles and allowances, you may not get very much back
on an actual claim.  In several years of rec.pets.dogs, no reader has
come back with a favorable story on claim processing.


L.  Pet Sitting and Kennel Services.

1.  Pet Sitting

In some cases, you can find friends or neighbors willing to take care
of your pets while you are gone.  If you are using a professional
service as opposed to a friend or relative, try to find one that's not
just one person doing it but is a business that has several people
working for them.  When it's a business with people working for them
the owners of the business are more likely to expect their people to
do a good job and be responsive to people complaining about poor
service.  Watch out for the business changing hands.  

Check with the National Association of Pet Sitters.  Members must sign
a code of ethics and can be removed if there are complaints.  They can
give you a list of pet sitters in your area.  Their address is 632
Holly Ave, Winston Salem, NC 27101 and phone (919) 723-PETS.  Their
brochure includes their code of ethics, and includes a list of what to
look for in a reputable pet sitter; included in list below.

Ask the company if they're bonded or insured.  See if they'll send
someone more than once a day.  Ask for references from previous and
current customers.  Some will bring the paper and mail in and help
make the place look "occupied;" that's a plus.

Check the potential sitter for the following:

1.  Does the pet sitter furnish written literature describing services
    and stating fees?
2.  Does the pet sitter visit the home beforehand to meet with the
    client and pet to obtain detailed information?
3.  Does the sitter arrive on time?
4.  Does the sitter get along with your pet?  Does the sitter exhibit
    confidence and ease with your pets?
5.  Is the pet sitter courteous, interested, and well informed?
6.  Does the sitter have written references?
7.  Is the sitter willing to give you names and numbers of former
    clients for references?
8.  Does the pet sitter have a service contract which spells out
    services the pet sitter will provide and fees for doing so?
9.  Are the company and/or sitter in good standing with the Better
    Business Bureau?
10. Does the pet sitter have regular office hours or return customer
    inquiries promptly?
11. Is the sitter recommended by someone you trust - either your vet,
    trainer, dog show buddies, etc?
12. Does the pet sitter have a veterinarian on call for emergency
    services? 
13. What contingency plan for pet care does the pet sitter have in the
    event of inclement weather or personal illness?
14. Does the company have a training program for their sitters?
15. How does the pet-sitting service recruit and screen applicants?
    Are there any prerequisites for employment?
16. Does the pet sitter or pet-sitting service telephone to determine
    if the client has returned home as scheduled or require that the
    client notify the company or pet sitter of their arrival home?
17. Does the pet sitter or company provide a rating form for customer
    feedback and evaluation of pet-sitting services?
18. Does the pet-sitting service have an established system for
    handling customer complaints?
19. When does the sitter get paid?  Before or after you come back?
    A deposit up front and the rest later?

Try to find word of mouth recommendations.  You might try calling
several vets in your area to see if they have any recommendations.
Check with the local SPCA and with Better Business Bureau for any
specific complaints lodged with a particular business.

2.  Kennels

Look around for a good one.  Experiences can be good or awful
depending on the kennel.

One resource: The American Boarding Kennel Association (ABKA) is based
in Colorado Springs.  You can use this organization to help you choose
a kennel.  If you write to them (or call them), they will send you a
small packet of information.  One part is a booklet on how to choose a
kennel, and another part is a list of all ABKA accredited kennels
around the country.

An ABKA kennel is supposed to meet a minimum set of criterion that is
spelled out in their literature.  The things they suggest you look for
and questions to ask involve a lot of common sense stuff, but there
are good suggestions you might not think of.

4575 Galley Rd., Suite 400A
Colorado Springs, CO  80915
719-591-1113


M.  Record Keeping.

1.  Breeders

AKC can't keep records straight.  This is why breeders MUST keep
official records on their dogs.  There are numerous fines listed in
the back of the Gazette for failure to maintain proper records.  If
you don't have your own record book I suggest you start one.  If you
are cited, you may have to start all over again with new dogs.  That
means that all the dogs you breed lose their AKC registrations.  The
AKC screws up a lot of things.  That's why it is so important that
breeders keep good files for their own breed club's use.

Breeders need to keep records in a book about their breeding dogs.
This includes the dog's registered name, number, sex, color, markings,
date of birth, and OFA, CERF etc. Every time that dog is bred (either
male or female) the date, the name of the other dog, the number of the
other dog, and the number of the owner of the other dog goes into it.
When the puppies are born, the number of puppies, sexes, colors,
markings, date of birth and litter number is added.  The breeder's
name(s) is also included.  On the litter registration form, the
information is reprinted to get the individual registration forms.

When the puppies are placed in a home, the new owner's name, address
and phone number go into the proper places.  (You can order these
books from the AKC -- they are called "Dog Ownership and Breeding
Record" books and they cost about $5 -- but they have enough pages for
many dogs.)

2.  Titles

For titles and points, keep a small *bound* notebook (so that the
question never comes up whether pages have been added or removed) to
record the judge's name, the number of dogs in the classes, the number
of points, the date, the show, and the club sponsoring the show.
Record obedience trials the same way.  You may want to have a folder
in which to keep all ribbons and copies of certificates and pedigrees
along with a few pictures of the dog.  You just need to have a record
of your own -- like your check book -- to make sure someone doesn't
goof up.  Two records are better than one!

3.  Working dogs

Dogs that work: e.g., Search and Rescue dogs, Police dogs, Disaster
dogs, any that work in potentially liable situations or do work that
may be challenged in court should have an ongoing record of their
training and of actual cases.  Note date and time, individuals
involved in the training, the purpose of the training, how the
training session was set up, how the dog did, and where it needs to
improve.  For an actual case, note all the specifics involved: who you
talked to, where you got the scent article or other applicable
information from, who was found/rescued/attacked, etc.  If you can, go
back and take pictures of the trail followed or other useful sites.
Keep training and actual case records separate.

If, for example, an SAR dog's identification of a felon comes into
question, that record may prove the difference as to whether the
evidence is ruled admissible or not.  In contrast to the above for
titles, keep training and case records in a loose-leaf binding, so
that only the record pertinent to the case need be forwarded to the
lawyers.

4.  Your personal enjoyment

Anyone training a dog may find it useful and interesting to keep a log
of their dog's progress in training.  In particular, it might help you
uncover patterns unique to your dog, or suggest other ways to approach
training.


N.  Removing Odors and Stains.

1.  Urine

Products that remove odors: Nature's Miracle (carpet, has 800
number); Simple Solution (carpet and other items); Resolve (carpet,
perhaps other items); Odor-Mute Enzyme Formula by the Ryter Corp.
These products use enzymes to break down the odor causing compounds in
urine and feces, and are quite effective.

Pouring club soda over the spot is often recommended for removing
odors; it may have a similar enzymatic reaction as the above products
(but this is speculation).

If the urine has soaked the pad and the floor below that, it will be
difficult to remove the odor regardless of what you use.

|If you have trouble finding the exact location of the urine (because
|it has dried), you can use a black light after dark.  Since urine
|fluoresces, you will be able to spot it and clean it up.

On launderable items: put in the washing machine with a cup of vinegar
and no detergent, then wash again as usual.

Most of the above products will also work to remove stains from the
carpet, and sometimes from clothing.  Spot Shot is very good with
carpet stains (but not odors).  You should remove odors first and then
deal with the stain, otherwise the chemicals for removing stains
may make the odor permanent or otherwise interfere with the enzymes
for odor removal.

For your yard, gypsum is supposed to help lawns cope with urine.
This is found in Jerry Baker's _Plants are Still Like People_.

2.  Skunks

The important thing is to get the skunk oil off a quickly as possible
and don't let the dog spread the oil around.  Also, the skunk smell
seems to be easier to get rid of the sooner the dog is washed.

To get rid of the smell - try vinegar diluted with water.  Douches
work (they contain vinegar), but the perfumes may irritate some dogs'
skin.  Soap the skunked areas, then apply the vinegar - let it sit a
little while, and then soap again.  Don't get the vinegar in the dog's
eyes.  Try also: diluted lemon juice and a dishwashing detergent to
cut the grease.

There is a product available called SKUNK OFF.

If your dog's been thoroughly sprayed, don't expect to get all the
smell out but what smell is left will go away faster.

3.  Saliva

The watery, tasteless liquid mixture of salivary and oral mucous gland
secretions that lubricates chewed food, moistens oral walls, and
contains enzymes that function in the predigestion of starches.

The enzymes are the potent operatives here that leave semi-permanent
slime trails on clothes, ceilings, walls, and table tops, depending on
your breed.  Removal of high-powered slobber, especially from
polyesters and blends, can be a problem.  For washable fabrics, the
cheapest pre-wash treatment is Accent meat tenderizer liberally
sprinkled on the the slobber spots (wet the spots or whole garment
before applying the Accent). Let it soak for a few minutes, then wash
as usual with laundry detergent.


O.  Travel and International Travel.

1.  Car

Most dogs love travelling in the car.  Some are fearful, others are
prone to carsickness.  Any dog travelling in a car should be
restrained in some manner, both for its safety and yours.  Dogs can
travel in carriers, probably the best option.  There are available
barriers which can keep your dog in the back seat (this works
especially well with station wagon type of cars).  There are
restraining leashes available.  Riding in the back of a truck is just
asking for trouble, as the dog will almost always be killed if it is
thrown from the truck in even a minor accident.  There are also
restraining leashes for dogs in open pick-up truck beds.  Some states
have laws against dogs riding in the back of a pick-up.

1.1. Car sickness, fear

Try just sitting in the back seat and just talking and playing with
your dog, assure it over a few of these sitting-in sessions that there
is nothing to be afraid of.  Then do a couple of slow trips, just
around the block, no more. Then to the local park or beach, so your
dog starts to get the idea that car trips lead to "fun" places too.
Finally, try slowing down some more for those corners since side to
side movements in a car are the most common cause of motion sickness.
Opening a window or turning on the car fan may help some dogs.

Do *not* sympathize with the dog or try to soothe it.  While
car-sickness isn't quite the same as being afraid of riding in the
car, it could conceivably be brought on by such a fear.  If that is
the case, doing *anything* that the pup can possibly interpret as
praise can be counterproductive.  It will teach it that this fear is
the desired behavior.  If the car sickness if brought on by such fear
and it is, inadavertantly, taught that the fear is desired behavior,
the car sickness will continue.

2.  Plane

The May - June, 1990 issue of Golden Retriever News (published by the
Golden Retriever Club of America) had an article on airline
transportation of dogs.  Many of the comments should be common sense
-- such as having the proper crates and bedding, choosing non-stop
flights where possible, allowing plenty of check-in time, etc.  The
article goes on to say that the ratings are based on serious problems
reported between July 1988 and July 1989, and that air travel is
generally safe for animals, with a mortality rate of less than one
tenth of one percent.

One pet is allowed in each cabin.  Thus, if there is one First Class,
one Business class and one Tourist class cabin, three pets are
allowed.  This can be modified if the pets are house mates - two
people who are traveling with their two pets, then the pets can be in
the same cabin.  A cabin is a section that can be closed off from view
from the other sections either with a door or a curtain.

As for specific airlines: USAir has one of the best reputations in
shipping animals.  They routinely check up on the animals, and ask the
owners to call a specific number after each landing the plane makes to
contact an individual who can check on the animals.  Continental has
the worst reputation, having had several dogs die in their planes.  A
particularly horrible incident in the summer of 1991 involved five
samoyeds, three of whom died of heat prostration despite the pleas of
the passengers and owners, who could hear the dogs barking in the
cargo area.  Other airlines have varying reputations.  In general a
direct flight is safest.

There is a pamphlet from Northwest Airlines called "Priority Pet."  It
explains Northwest's methods of pet transport --- it was encouraging
to see an airline show explicit concern for this issue.  Northwest
asks owners to attach two bowls and a supply of food to the outside of
the kennel in order that the animal may be fed and watered (presumably
by Northwest personnel).  The caveats and conditions are enlightening
to read.

Other references: The _Conde' Nast Traveler_ (June 1992) has an
article on pets and planes, including information on which carriers
have been fined for violations of animal transportation laws.

3.  International Travel.

A partial list: most states require a health certificate and proof of
rabies vaccination for pets crossing state lines.  Most airlines will
require this regardless.  Hawaii and Britain have a 6 month quarantine
for all pets entering either island (the chunnel may change Britain's
policy in a few years).  Canada has a 4 month quarantine [I think?],
except from the US, where rabies vaccination documentation is
sufficient.  Scandinavian countries have a three month quarantine,
with exceptions for animals from rabies-free countries such as Britain
and Australia.

Australia accepts animals only from rabies-free countries and even
then these animals have a six month quarantine; animals from other
countries may not enter at all.  Other sources say that animals from
other countries *can* enter (must be quarantined, of course); there
are different quarantine lengths for different countries: Britain is 6
months, others were 9 months, some countries are not listed at all.
There is unrestricted travel between Australia and New Zealand
provided the animals have been in New Zealand for at least six months.

|4.  Shipping

|You may find yourself shipping a dog, for various reasons.  Most
|people simply ship them as cargo on an airline.  This works best when
|the flight is a non-stop, and neither the start- or end-point is at
|risk of too high or too low temperatures.  There is at least one
|company that ships dogs.  This is

|Pet Transfer 
|(world wide door to door pet moving service)
|714-660-9390 (USA)
|[There may be an 800 number, but I do not have it.]


P.  Wolves and Wolf Hybrids.

|Note: entire section has been rewritten.

First, note that there is a group in the ALT hierarchy called
alt.wolves.  There, you can read firsthand experiences of hybrid
owners, and discuss other issues involving wolves and hybrids in
general.

1.  Wolves

Wolves are very different from canines, but they do share a common
ancestry.  Wolves can be fascinating to study -- and observation of
wolves' social structure and behavior shed much insight into canine
behavior.

Resources and References:

Wolf Park is an organization whose mission is to conduct behavioral
research to obtain a better understanding of wolves in captivity and
in the wild, to disseminate scientific information and improve captive
animal management techniques, and to educate the general public to
gain a compassionate and realistic understanding of wolves and
ecology.  Wolf Park is supported through memberships and donations.
Benefits include free admission to the park for one year, Wolf Park
News and Journal of Wolf Ethology, and discounts on books from the
bookstore.  Behavior seminars directed by Dr. Erich Klinghammer are
offered.  There is an Adopt-A-Wolf program as well.  Note that they do
not deal with wolf-hybrids: many people attempt to donate their WH's
and they do not accept them.  Their position is that wolf-hybrids are
a bad idea, a detriment to wolves and the Park's mission.  They will
provide information about hybrids to those that ask.

Address: Wolf Park, Battle Ground, IN 47920.  Phone: (317) 567-2265.

Mech, L. David. _The Wolf_.  University of Minnesota Press, 1970.
384 pgs Softcover.  ISBN: 0-1866-1026-6.
  Complete description of the wolf, its behavior and ecology.
  David Mech is a renowned wolf expert, and this is an extremly
  informative and well written book.

Lopez, Barry H. _Of Wolves and Men_.  Charles Scribner's Sons, 1978.
308 pgs Softcover. ISBN: 0-684-16322-5.
  Description of wolves and their relationship with humans.  Not
  really a technical discussion of wolves like the first reference.

Crisler, Lois.  _Arctic Wild_. New York, Harper. 1958.

Mowat, Farley.  _Never Cry Wolf_.  Boston, Little, Brown. 1963.

The Wolf Society of Great Britain produces the flyer "The Howler."
Prospect House
Charlton
Kilmersdon. Bath. BA3 5TN


2.  Wolf-Hybrids

**********************************************************************
FAQ author's note:  I disclaim *any* responsibility in the event you 
get a wolf-hybrid.  It is my personal recommendation that you not get 
one.  What follows is for informational purposes only and is presented 
here only because it is a controversial topic that comes up every now 
and then on this group.
                                                  --Cindy Tittle Moore
**********************************************************************

Anyone who is interested in getting a wolf-hybrid should obtain as
much information about the animals *before* considering getting one.
WH's are not casual pets and do not behave like dogs do.  Most WH
experts recommend that you spend some time around WH's to be sure of
what you are getting into.  Wolf Country and other places offer
programs where people can help care for WH's and learn first hand
about them.  There are also seminars and organizations to help
disseminate the information a WH owner needs.  **DO NOT EVEN
*CONSIDER* GETTING A WOLF-HYBRID BEFORE GETTING THIS INFORMATION AND
EDUCATION!**

What follows below is a thumbnail sketch of the sorts of problems with
wolf-hybrids, along with resources for more complete information.

Legality: Because of various state and federal laws regarding wildlife
and endangered species, wolf-hybrids are simply illegal.  As of 1991,
they were illegal in ten states, and an additional nine required Fish
& Game permits, especially if the hybrid was at least 75% wolf.  A lot
of states don't quite know what to do with hybrids and have thus
included such terminology in defining hybrids as "wolf-like
characteristics."  Even when legal, they face much prejudice, and a WH
that runs afoul of the law (by trespassing, biting, etc) is much more
likely to be destroyed than a dog doing the same.  

In addition, such a WH will generate negative publicity for wolves.
Reinforcing negative images of wolves in the public's mind and giving
ammunition to the ranching industry to produce more anti-wolf
propoganda directly hampers the wolf's reintroduction into the wild.
Unfair as it is, the general public will think "wolf" when
"wolf-hybrid" comes up, and the ranching industry has long had an
interest in completely eliminating wolves.

Behavior: Although there are exceptions, most WH's do NOT act like
domesticated dogs, Jack London's romantic stories notwithstanding.
Dogs are the result of thousands of years of genetic selection for
those attributes that are desired by man.  The wolf, on the other
hand, has been selected to be a survivor.  Most suffer from a fear, or
at least a nervousness, of being around people and are very timid
until something happens to go against their instincts. The pack
instinct is very strong. They will only obey their owner if they feel
he is the dominant dog in the pack, so obviously, he needs to know A
LOT about wolfpacks to stay ahead of the game.  Also, hybrids don't
always automatically assume that the "master" will remain the master,
resulting in testing the owner for dominance, which can take the forms
of attacking or defensive fighting.

Predicting behavior: The percentage of wolf in the hybrid's background
will not accurately predict its behavior.  Some hybrids with low
percentages are nervous and skittish, others with high percentages are
more stable and reliable.  Looking at the pup's parents may give some
indication, but then it may not.  A good deal will depend on how well
socialized the animal is, that is, how much work its owner puts into
it.  Remember, WH's are NOT a breed, there is absolutely no
consistency in their breeding.  Not only does the percentage of wolf
background vary, but the dogs used in the crosses also vary, although
they are commonly Malamutes and Huskies.  Also, since they are not
bred for any particular purpose and there are a number of backyard
breeders of WH's, this contributes to their uncertain temperament.
Because WH are so much more work than average dogs, and because the
*potential* is there for the WH to be more prone to what is deemed
anti-social behavior in domesticated dogs, the problem is amplified.

Around people: WH's, as with any large or excitable animal, should
NEVER be allowed access to small children, unless they are on a leash
and strictly watched for signs of aggression.  If a child trips and
falls, or gets knocked down by the big furry "dog", or worse yet,
teases the "dog", a mauling can easily result.  Hybrids need to be
watched around strangers because they may back bite.  Not all WH's
react this way, but a hybrid owner cannot afford to take any chances.
Again, because of negative public perception, the hybrid will likely
be destroyed as a result of such an incident, and its behavior only
reinforce the negative perception.  In addition, it will further
damage the reputation of wolves, making reintroduction that much
harder and damage the reputation of the dogs the wolves are bred to,
usually Siberian Huskies and Alaskan Malamutes.

Training: Many respondents emphasized that WH's can be trained, but
NOT TRUSTED without their owners nearby.  Most obedience clubs will
not even allow wolf hybrids in classes.  Wolf Country, a breeder near
Anchorage, strongly recommends potential owners work around the
animals for at least a year in order to see if they can handle them
and do want one.  Apparently they socialize quite differently from
dogs, and can differ in their response to discipline.  The normal
methods used on dogs may or may not work on a hybrid.  Because of all
this, you will need WH support groups of some form nearby to help you
with potential training problems.

Housing: YOU DO NOT (repeat NOT) PUT A HYBRID ON A CHAIN IN THE BACK
YARD!  You need to build an enclosure of at least 10000 square feet to
allow it to explore.  Also it must be fenced with at least 7' high and
an overhang.  Not only that, but it wouldn't be a bad idea to put a
gate to your back yard to prevent children from wandering out there,
because if you stick something into its area, it will try to pull it
through, regardless of whether it is living or just a stick.  Some of
these animals are so strongly destructive that they can not be let in
the house, and will destroy any house you make for them.

Health: Most medicines for dogs do not work or are unapproved for use
on hybrids and as a result hybrids may have a harder time getting over
kennel cough, parvo, distemper, etc.  In Indiana, for example, it is
illegal to vaccinate a wild animal (including hybrids).

Resources:

The Wolf Hybrid Times (WHT) is packed full of information: complete
with many long series on topics such as nuitrition, containment,
medical information, current legal status and issues, research, wolves
in literature, photos and seasoned, practical advice from owners,
breeders and scientists.  Add to this commercial advertising
specifically geared to wolf and wolf hybrid owners plus regular
updates and activities from the various organizations.  Subscription
rate is $20.00 per year; please add $4.00 outside the U.S.  Published
bi-monthly.  Address is: WHT, P.O.  Box 1423, Gallup, NM 87305.

The National Wolf Hybrid Association is dedicated to responsible care
and understanding of the wolf hybrid.  Membership fees are $25.00
yearly which include a bi-monthly newsletter.  Address: Rt. 1 Box 163
Chapmansboro, TN 37035.  Phone: (615) 746-3442.


----------------
This file is Copyright (c) 1992 by Cindy Tittle Moore.  It may be
freely distributed in its entirety provided that this copyright notice
is not removed.  It may not be sold for profit nor incorporated in
commercial documents without the author's written permission.

Cindy Tittle Moore
Internet: tittle@ics.uci.edu  UUCP: ...!ucbvax!ucivax!tittle
Bitnet  : cltittle@uci        USmail: PO BOX 4188, Irvine CA 92716
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