From: jill@super.org (Amelia J. Scott-Piner)
Subject: Answers to Reed Goo
Keywords: reed, stainless steel, goo, ickk
Organization: Supercomputing Research Center (Bowie, MD)
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 19:53:32 GMT

A while ago I posted an article looking for ways to clean a 
new stainless steel reed that seemed to have some sort of 
protective coating on it.   I received many replies by mail
and several were posted.  Here is a compiliation of all of 
the posts that I received through e-mail:


generally, I've experienced no problems with rusty reeds. I have aabout
a half a dozen stainless steel and a couple of carbon steel (all viking).

The carbon steel ones did come with a bunch of heavy sticky grease on them
as you say. I solved the problem by choosing as my first project with those
reeds, a weft-faced bound weave rug of full width:-) This deposited the
grease on the hidden rug warp and not on the surface of the piece.
--
------------------------------------------------------------------------        


In rec.crafts.misc you write:

>It's also resisting the basic wipe-down, so I think I'm going to    
>have to be more extreme.  (Just a note--I buy stainless because I'm
>lazy enough not to want to waste my valuable weaving time cleaning
>the rust off of my reeds every third project or so.  So I've never
>actually used Admiral's jelly or whatever it is to clean the steel.)  

>Can anybody recommend a good cheap *EASY* solvent for me to use to 
>clean this mess up?  (^_^)

Well, I know nothing about weaving, however, I know *something* about stainless
steel.....it doesn't rust. If it gets stained just dip it in in a weak bleach
solution for a couple of hours - comes up a treat.

Try alcohol for removing the gunge.

Dunno what you call these two above chemicals in the US but 'bleach' is the
stuff you pour down your drain if you get a nasty smell. Get it at a 
supermarket in big plastic bottles - hypochloride maybe?

Methinks 'alcohol' is called rubbing alcohol in the US. 100% methyl or ethyl
alcohol.

cheers

Dave

_______________________________________________________________________________ -- 


One of the safest solvents for oils and greases are other oils-- slop
it up good with plain vegetable oil (or whatever you have handy), let it
sit overnight, then wipe and see if that takes it.  You might have to
repeat the application a couple of times.  Finish up with straight dish
detergent (Dawn is good at grease and rinses off well-- it's what's
used to degrease seabirds and mammals in oil spills), a hot
water rinse, and a last wipe.

Kay Klier   Biology Dept  UNI

(No, I didn't learn this in chemistry class-- when I was a kid my 
mother would get machinery grease out of my father's work clothes by
smearing on a liberal amount of Crisco, working in some detergent and
washing.)  8-)

______________________________________________________________________________


Try lemon oil first, and if that does not work try
nail polish remover and if that does not work, try
methylene chloride (paint remover).  DO NOT USE NAVAL
JELLY, it is a rust remover and you will spoil your reed.

Karen Tellefsen


______________________________________________________________________________

SOme reeds are held in place by pitch, at least some that I have seen.  So
check up at the ends to see how the rods are mounted into the framework.  
Our LeClerc ahd such a reed, and the pitch was covered with tape to protect 
the fibers.  Weird, but true.  
As for a solvent, something like alcohol should work, but apply it carefully.

cheers
and good weaving
Susan Richardson
glink@silver.ucs.indiana.edu

____________________________________________________________________________


In rec.crafts.textiles you write:

>Can anybody recommend a good cheap *EASY* solvent for me to use to 
>clean this mess up?  (^_^)

I'd go to a hardware store and get a spary can of carburetor &
choke cleaner.  It will dissolve just about any oil, grease,
wax, or tar film on just about anything.  Be sure to use it
outdoors.
-- 

_______________________________________________________________________________

It sounds like your reed (is that the thingie with teeth?, Are
"dents" the places between the teeth?) has been coated with LPS-3,
an industrial metal-storage coating. It should dissolve away easily
enough if you spray LPS-1 on it. (or any other hydrocarbon solvent,
ie, acetone, gasoline, xylene, and perhaps, rubbing alcohol).
Also, carburator cleaner or brake cleaner should dissolve it pretty well.
Mike

_________________________________________________________________________________

It's probably some form of fat, so try ether (VERY flammable!).

Alternatively, white spirit (used for thinning oil paint) which then
has to be removed by washing in detergent or with alcohol.

Best of luck.

_________________________________________________________________________________

Greetings,

I, myself, am not a weaver, though I (and my brothers and father) have
all helped dress many a loom, my mother being a weaver for a long time
(40+ years?? or am I giving something away?).  I sent her a
copy of your note regarding a dirty reed. She just called me to let
me know what she would do. Her reply - 

"Send it back to the manufacturer. Stainless steel reeds should
never have anything on them. Ordinary reeds may have some protective
oil on them, but not very much."

In case you wish to know who my mom might be ....

Ruth N. Holroyd, Pittsford (near Rochester), NY
She teaches weaving and bobbin lace.
She has taught at Convergence for many years.
This summer her topic was:  "Jacob Aangstad (sp?) - Star Work"
She has advertisements in "Handweaver", "Shuttle, Spindle & Dyepot", and
"Weaver's Magazine".

Good luck with your reed.

_______________________________________________________________________________

>And of course, this well-meaning fellow:

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end



Thanks for all of your time and help.  I'm going to tackle this one
in a week or so.  We'll see how it goes.

			jill@super.org
			Jill Scott-Piner
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles