HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: john@jbean.b29.ingr.com (John Bean)
Subject: Re: Porter Cable Palm/Random Orbit Sander info wanted.
Reply-To: b29!jbean!john@ingr.com
Organization: Intergraph Corporation
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1992 14:50:00 GMT

In article <3214@bcstec.ca.boeing.com>, munoz@bcstec.ca.boeing.com (David Munoz) writes:
|> 
|> Although It's a good to be able to swap disk without wasting a sheet, I'd compare
|> the cost of the sheets if I were you.  I found that the stick-on types were less
|> than half the cost of the velco ones.  For me, the re-usability wasn't
|> worth the large extra cost since a sheet dosen't last very long anyway. This
|> is especailly true for the finer grits.  BTW, the Porter-Cable is an excellent
|> unit.  It's reliable and plenty powerful.  My only complaint is that it could
|> have been a little more ergonomically designed.
|> 
|> David Munoz
|> dgm1626@boeing.com
|> 

    Did you buy the one with or without the dust collector? It it actually
worth the $25 extra to buy the one with the dust collector and a the
stick-on base ? I have only seen the dust collector variety in catalogs
with the velcro-ish base.

   I thought the point of a power tool was to create dust & shavings...

======================================================================
= John Bean							     =
= Intergraph Corp, Huntsville AL	john@jbean.b29.ingr.com	     =
======================================================================
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Wed, 19 Aug 1992 15:20:00 CDT
From:         Charlie Griffin <CGRIFFIN@KSUVM.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: bending wood

On Wed, 19 Aug 1992, you said:
>
> In article <WOODWORK%92081908474585@IPFWVM.BITNET> you write:
>
> >Check out some of the books on instrument construction if this interests you.
>
> Have you ever seen any books on piano construction by any chance ?
>
> Davei
>
Sorry, Davei, that's one area of instrument construction I have not stumbled
into.  I generally hit a good library and start digging through the references.
I have found that interlibrary loan can get just about anything I want if I am
very very patient.  Good luck with it.  I'd enjoy hearing about it if you do
start building a piano.  I took one apart once for the wood in it (the sound-
board is a good source for well-aged spruce).  I found pretty rapidly that they
are built solidly.  I finally pulled out my sledgehammer for the fine detail of
getting the joints apart!!!  But I did get some pretty nice old wood.
--Charlie
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Thu, 13 Aug 1992 10:34:37 EST
From:         "Lawrence E. Rondot" <RONDOT@IPFWVM.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Unfinished Chair Frames (was Chair Designs)

On Wed, 12 Aug 1992 17:20:03 GMT DBRUM said:
>In article <1992Aug11.170722.18981@cs.cmu.edu>, neek+@CS.CMU.EDU (Craig Marcus)
>writes:
>> Along these lines....
>>
>> I'm making dining room tables (large ones), in
>> the mission style in red oak.
>
>Sounds like you need to check out Stickley. Gustav Stickley.
>He was a furniture designer back in the early portion of this
>century
>
>You should be able to find the big book about him and his work
>at the public library, or at a bookstore that has a good assortment
>of woodworking selections. The book has many detailed measured
>drawings. Stickley worked in quartersawn oak. The book is called
>THE FURNITURE OF GUSTAV STICKLEY (i think :-).
>

I looked up STICKLEY in our on-line library catalog and found:

Title:        Stickley craftsman furniture catalos : unabridged reprints of
              two mission furniture catalogs, "Craftsman furniture made by
              Gustav Stickley" and "The work of L. & G. Stickley"
Published:    New York : Dover Publications, c1979
Description:  viii, <180> p. : ill. ; 24cm

Library of Congress Call Number TS887 .S89 1979


Source: Indiana University Library Information OnLine (TELNET IUIS.INDIANA.EDU)

Larry Rondot

>--danny
From: fleming@blitzen.SanDiego.NCR.COM (Joe Fleming)
Subject: Re: Exposed wiring and the NEC.
Reply-To: fleming@blitzen.SanDiego.NCR.COM (Joe Fleming)
Organization: NCR Corporation, Rancho Bernardo
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 16:36:06 GMT

I had wired my garage using Romex stapled to joists, headers, etc.  When the
inspector came, he didn't look at the wiring at all - except for two outdoor
runs.  He was very concerned about my outdoor gas pipe and the footing for a
retaining wall.  I had spent so much time being careful to do it correctly,
that I felt cheated when he ignored the work.

As easy as this inspector was for electrical, he was a bear for structural
stuff.  He had to come back two times for every stage of construction because
I didn't do something perfect.  Go figure.

Joe
From: bds@mbunix.mitre.org (Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Router table
Date: 14 Aug 92 16:39:04 GMT
Organization: The MITRE Corporation, Bedford, MA

In article <1992Aug13.115806.1@max.u.washington.edu> games@max.u.washington.edu writes:
>In article <1122@ceylon.gte.com>, boykin@gte.com (Joseph Boykin) writes:
>> I'm looking for a good quality router table.  Most of the ones I've
>> seen are little table-top versions made of plastic.  I've seen one from
>> Porter-cable which is on a stand and made of metal but it is relatively
>> small (from memory: 16 x 18").  I'm looking for something about 2' deep
>> by 3' wide.  Very solid, on a stand, and with a good fence.
>> 
>> I know I can build one, but with the limited amount of time I have
>> to work in my shop, I would rather produce toys/gifts/whatever
>> rather than something for the shop itself.
>> 
>> jb
>
>Eagle has a router table with a milled aluminum fence that appears from the
>brochure to be a cut above.  I haven't seen it in person, but it is on par with
>a lot of other router tables in terms of cost.  (I think it was $199)
>
>Sorry, I can't remember eagle americas 800 phone number.  But it is an 800
>number, so 1-800-555-1212 ought to get it for you.
>
>			John.
>

You should also try RBIndustries.  They have 3 router tables ranging
in price from about $200 to about $1000.  They also have an 800
number.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: hwilson@scic.intel.com (Howard Wilson)
Subject: Water based top coats, paste fillers.
Keywords: Finishes, water based, polyurethane, paste filler.
Organization: Intel Corporation, Beaverton, OR
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 20:56:06 GMT

Greetings fellow woodworkers,

I am in the process of building a coffee table and end tables for
my family room using red oak.  I am considering trying out one of
these newer water based polyurethane top coats (varathane diamond).

Has anyone used these?
How do you like them?
How is the finish compared to their pertroleum based relatives?  
Can they be applied over oil based stains or paste fillers?

On the subject of paste fillers, I was wondering if anyone out 
there has experimented with tinting these.  Most of the fillers
I have been able to find only come in "natural" and a few pre-
tinted colors.  I have used WoodKote brand "natural" before with
good results.  I'm curious if anyone out there may have some advice
as how to go about tinting this stuff.  All I can tell you is that
this product is an isocyanate base and the label states that they
can be tinted.  Could "artist oils" be used for this purpose?

Any insight on these subjects would be greatly appreciated, thanks
in advance!


-- 
Howard Wilson
Intel Corporation		Supercomputer Interconnect Components Group
5200 NE Elam Young Parkway	MS CO5-01     Email: hwilson@scic.intel.com
Hillsboro, OR  97124		Phone: 503-531-5056
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-Acknowledge-To: <UKA004@UKCC.uky.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 18 Aug 1992 09:27:29 EDT
From:         "Bramel, Jim" <UKA004@UKCC.UKY.EDU>
Subject:      Re: Water based top coats, paste fillers.
              17 Aug 1992 20:56:06 GMT from <hwilson@SCIC.INTEL.COM>

I have always tinted paste wood filler with artists oils and small
amounts of wiping stains (enough to give the same tint as the stained
wood).
From: x1freelo@EXNET.IASTATE.EDU (Tom Freelove -- Extension Communications)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Water based finishes
Date: 19 Aug 92 17:07:20 GMT
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU

I have used a water based finish (Varathane, I think...) once when
refinishing hardwood floors.  Never again!!!  As others mentioned, it
raised the grain terribly, was next to impossible to apply without
getting bubbles, plus discolored to a milky yellow and showed over-lap
markes very distinctly.  I took the stuff back for a refund on the
unopend cans.  I did another floor with poly, and though it smelled bad
for a few days, it turned out great.

Tom A. Freelove                           x1freelo@exnet.iastate.edu
Communications Specialist / Video          Phone: (515) 294-0703
Iowa State University Extension            Fax:   (515) 294-7767
Ames, IA 50011
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: An UnGrizzly Tale, and too tall stuff
Reply-To: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 92 16:29:10 GMT

In article <3711@ecicrl.ocunix.on.ca> clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis) writes:

>I think you mean 2x...

Several people caught that set of typos.

>It entirely depends on the spans involved.  2x10 is reasonably common.
>My house for example - 2x10, 12" OC.  (15 foot spans)  Nice solid floor...

A few people have also pointed this out, which sent me back to my span
tables. Turns out that things *will* be different out West, because it
also depends on the wood species. The tables I have are for 40lbs/sq.'
live load plus 10lbs/sq.' dead load. Using species such as Southern Pine
or Northern Fir, one can span 12' 10" with a 2x8 and span 16' 5" with a
2x10. In the East, 2x12 joists would be uncommon.

Western pines, cedars, redwood, and spruce won't carry that much load.
Using these, one can only span 10' 2" with a 2x8 and 13' 0" with a 2x10.

My tables are for normal deck loads. Housing spans will be slightly less.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | I don't know if I believe in love at first sight.
                    | I've never seen a Porshe full of money.
                    |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: boykin@gte.com (Joseph Boykin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Router table
Date: 13 Aug 92 17:34:28 GMT
Reply-To: boykin@gte.com
Organization: GTE Laboratories

I'm looking for a good quality router table.  Most of the ones I've
seen are little table-top versions made of plastic.  I've seen one from
Porter-cable which is on a stand and made of metal but it is relatively
small (from memory: 16 x 18").  I'm looking for something about 2' deep
by 3' wide.  Very solid, on a stand, and with a good fence.

I know I can build one, but with the limited amount of time I have
to work in my shop, I would rather produce toys/gifts/whatever
rather than something for the shop itself.

jb
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Sat, 22 Aug 1992 09:46:57 EDT
From:         ZGDSHSE <ZGDSHSE@SJUMUSIC.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Water based top coats, paste fillers Reply

Rich -

I used the Varathane Diamond finish on a red oak cabinet in
my bathroom.  I like the color - very clear, but it raises the
grain something awful.  Also, under no circumstances use
steel wool between coats.  Any remaining (and some will remain
no matter how you clean, brush, vacuum) particles will turn a bright
purple color.  This looks awful against a clear oak color.

Also, after three coats the grain is still open a bit.  Personally,
I will probably never use it again.  If you can make it to
Staten Island, NY I'll give you 3/4 of a can that I will never
use.

Gene Sampson
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: fkilpatr@afit.af.mil (Freeman A. Kilpatrick)
Subject: Polymerized Tung Oil
Summary: info about tung oil
Keywords: tung oil, finishing, welles
Organization: Air Force Institute of Technology
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 16:56:52 GMT

I recently read about Sutherland Welles' polymerized tung oil in an old copy of
Woodsmith (1984).  I called the toll-free number, and it looks like they are still
there, although all I got was an answering machine.  From reading the article, it
sounds like a really interesting finish.  Does anyone have any more information
about this, or has anyone ever used it.

Thanks!

ak
-- 
Alex Kilpatrick  fkilpatr@afit.af.mil  
"Where the ENIAC is equipped with 18,000 vacuum tubes and weighs 30 tons, computers in the future may have only 1,000 vacuum tubes and weigh only 1 1/2 tons." 
---Popular Mechanics, March 1949
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: trifid@agora.uucp (Roadster Racewerks)
Subject: Re: A Grizzly Tale: Outside looking in.
Organization: Open Communications Forum
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 1992 08:32:28 GMT



Of course if you're *really* handy with tools, you could do what my friend
Ed did while waiting for a bargain bandsaw to pop up...build your own.  :-)

He made it out of scrap plywood, old auto parts like connecting rods, and
bought the wheels and had the blade made to length. Although he (predictably)
found just the used saw he wanted within a month of building it, he's kept
it because it was designed with a very deep throat, and he still finds it
handy occasionally....

Plus it is fun to see the reaction of people when they see a wooden bandsaw
housing.  :-)

He also uses our big, old drill press to grind valves on automobiles  This
involves attaching his router to the tilt table, and spinning the valve in
the drill chuck, while a stone in the router surfaces the valve.

(And I thought *I* was being clever washing my motorcycle parts in the
dishwasher...;-)

Suze
trifid@agora.rain.com

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jim@jagubox.gsfc.nasa.gov (Jim Jagielski)
Subject: Re: Is it ok to wetsand wood?
Reply-To: jim@jagubox.gsfc.nasa.gov (Jim Jagielski)
Organization: NASA/Goddard Space Flight Center
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 11:54:49 GMT

Bob Zigon <bobz@truevision.com> writes:

 /* nothing at all */

I guess your question is in the Subject line.

Sooo.... yep... but expect to raise the wood fibers.

-- 
    Jim Jagielski               | "This is supposed to be a happy occasion.
    jim@jagubox.gsfc.nasa.gov   |  Let's not bicker and argue about who
    NASA/GSFC, Code 734.4       |  killed who."
    Greenbelt, MD 20771         |
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: thomas@BAEPV3.NCSU.EDU
Subject: Re: Water based top coats, paste fillers.
Reply-To: thomas@BAEPV3.NCSU.EDU
Organization: North Carolina State University
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 15:17:12 GMT


About water based finishes... it seems that all the responces so far
have been about Varathane and Deft products but..

I recently put three coats of Carver Tripp superpoly on a yellow pine
coffee table and the results were much better than I expected.  There
was very little bubbling, and really the only place that had any bubbles
was part of the bottom of the table that I apparently missed with in 
the final sanding.  I applied the finish with a good quality nylon 
brush, and went over the piece between coats with one of those synthetic
steel wools.

I really like this stuff because: 	1. dries fast (about 30 min.)
					2. almost no odor
					3. easy clean up
					4. very smooth, hard finish

One thing that does bother me, and will be the reason that I will probably
not use it for some projects... It seems to cover over most of the grain 
and appears a little too like plastic (of course it is a urethane).  I'm
going to experiment with _very_ light coats to see if I can remedy this.

Scot Thomas   thomas@bae.ncsu.edu
From: b1hg0jv@kato.BELL-ATL.COM (Benash)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Is it ok to wetsand wood?
Date: 15 Aug 92 17:15:39 GMT
Organization: Bell Atlantic

I haven't wet-sanded unfinished wood, but I've read articles related to
the topic of wet sandind during the finishing process. Basically, wet 
sanding is not necessarily associated with water.

The articles I read used naptha and/or I beleive an oil (linseed). I can
dig up the articles if someone is really interested. They were in one of
three rags - American Woodworker, Woodsmith, or Fine Woodworking. Anyone
else remember seeing them?

I have used linseed oil and water to wet-sand during the finishing process
while useing polyurethane (linseed oil) and oil-based enamel paint (water).

I preferred water, because it's easier to wipe off and less of a mess. It
will raise the grain on any spot you've missed with the finish being applied.

I have wet unfinished wood (wiping down with a wet cloth) and then dry
sanded after it dried (with the grain raised from the water). It did make
for a little faster process and a bit smoother maybe, but not exceptionally
different.

Wet sanding between finish coats was worth it though, it made for a much
smoother finish overall, very similar to pumice and rotenstone with oil.
In fact I consider this wet sanding also, but others may disagree. 


Ray Benash
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: hollen@megatek.UUCP (Dion Hollenbeck)
Subject: Re: A fire safety reminder
Organization: Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 20:06:22 GMT

>>>>> On 12 Aug 92 14:50:06 GMT, wilson@schaefer.math.wisc.edu (Bob Wilson) said:

Bob> I assume most of us know the danger of oily rags but I was just
Bob> reminded how easy it is to forget: I was darned lucky my house didn't
Bob> burn up last night. Since I know that I know better and I don't think
Bob> that I am THAT much more forgetful than others I thought I would post
Bob> a reminder...

[...good details of almost fire deleted...]

Bob> Remember the problem with oily rags is not just that they are
Bob> flammable and could be easily ignited, but that they can ignite them
Bob> selves in what is called spontaneous combustion! How that process goes
Bob> has been discussed at length here before and I won't use more
Bob> bandwidth discussing it, but please do remember to treat those rags
Bob> properly!

My method for treating properly is to spend about $15 for a used
military ammo can, 8"x24"x18", and put all my rags in there until I
have enough of a batch to fill a washer load.  Since the can is
airtight, any spontaneous combustion would soon be extinguished from
lack of oxygen, and even with the presence of oxygen, the can is all
steel (except for the rubber seal) and would not transmit any flames
to the outside environment.
-- 
Dion Hollenbeck       UUCP: {uunet, ucsd, sun}!megatek!hollen
                      INTERNET:            hollen@megatek.com
Megatek Corporation  9645 Scranton Rd.  San Diego, Ca.  92121
From: ron@pilot.njin.net (Ron Natalie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: What grits to buy?
Date: 18 Aug 92 23:23:45 GMT
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

I tend not to go below 120 grit in my orbital nor much over 120 in
my beltsander.  If you only have the big orbital, then you probably
might want a few 80's, though I tend not to use the ultracourse stuff
at all (a saw generally works a lot better).  Also the superhigh
grades aren't all that useful in a power sander.
By the assortment, you'll run out of one before the others, then you
know what to order next time.

-RON
From: glenb@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Glen Baker)
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 00:58:31 GMT
Subject: rec.skiing FAQ 07/7
Organization: What, me? Organized?
Newsgroups: rec.skiing

            The rec.skiing Frequently Asked Questions List
                              -or-
   Everything you always wanted to know about skiing and were *just* about
   to ask by posting.

   The rec.skiing FAQ is a work in progress and is maintained by glen
   baker (glenb@sr.hp.com) Additions and corrections to the FAQ are 
   welcome. If you have an addition or correction to make please take the
   time to write it out in the format of the FAQ so that I don't have
   to try to figure out how to say what you're trying to say!

   Index:
       1) Warnings  
       2) Equipment
       3) Clothing
       4) Technique
       5) Transportation
       6) Lodging
       7) Miscellaneous
       8) Lest we become too serious

 ------------------- Section 07: Miscellaneous -------------------

 7.01) "What will the conditions be like at <favorite area> in <favorite
       
       month>?"

     TCWBWIHTBATPT, or The Conditions Will Be Whatever They Happens To Be At 
     That Particular Time. People who claim to be able to predict conditions
     for longer than 10 minutes in advance are probably lying to you. Don't
     buy any real-estate from them.

 7.02) "What's the phone number for <insert favorite area>?"

     Mike Rizzi maintains a list of ski-related phone numbers. This list is
     periodically posted to rec.skiing.

 7.03) "What's the best place to ski?"

     This one is easy. Squaw Valley. Or was it Jackson Hole? Could be Taos.
     Wait...it's Alta. No, I mean Whistler. Tuckerman's Ravine! Naw, it's
     Crystal Mountain. Unless of course you include the East Coast then I'm
     *sure* it's Lake Placid. Or Killington. Definitely somewhere in Vermont.
     Or make that Montana. No, I meant to say Sun Valley. Did I say Sun Valley?
     I meant Snowbird. Which isn't in Colorado. Oh yeah, colorado! Ajax fer
     sure!. Unless you'd rather ski Highlands.  Well I guess there's only one
     thing for sure: it's NOT Heavenly! :-)

 7.04) "What's the best place to eat?"

     Hey no way man, you want me to divulge my favorite restaurtants? 
     Fast service, good food, and turn them into crowded places?  No 
     broadcast man, only one-on-one email......  Pierce Street Annex was 
     great until the word got out!

                                 - Famous rec.skiing net.person who
                                   shall remain nameless...
                                   ...but his initials are Eugene Miya.


Newsgroups: rec.skiing
From: russ@pmafire.inel.gov (Russ Brown)
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 92 15:37:24 GMT
Organization: WINCO
Subject: Re: Steamboat
Summary: 
Followup-To: 
Organization: WINCO
Keywords: 

In article <1992Aug13.203605.27137@nas.nasa.gov> eugene@wilbur.nas.nasa.gov (Eugene N. Miya) writes:
>In article <1992Aug13.162022.1607@advtech.uswest.com>
>jsalmi@lookout.it.uswc.uswest.com (John Salmi) writes:
>>In article <SSH.92Aug13073254@snow.boulder.ibm.com>
><ssh@vnet.ibm.com> writes:
>>>You're likely to *love* Steamboat...
>
>>>Steve Hultquist         
>>>"No, really, you don't want to ski Colorado..."
>>
>>no no no no.  Ski Vail.
>
>Okay, we have to get this right, present a united front.  Try to direct
>the people to individual resorts.  That way you can have your skiing and
>economy, too.
>
>Vail is a fine beautiful resort.  Good.
>Great job there Salmi.
>
>IF people HAVE TO GO TO UTAH, let them ski Deer Valley.  Or at worse
>Park City.  And make certain they get religious tracts.
>Idaho?  Where else?  Sun Valley. CA? (oh just about anywhere).
>I am certain the people on the East Coast can suggest some fine EC resorts.
>
 There is no skiing in Idaho at all.  Winter if off . . . right out. 
Extended drought and tropical weather has ended everything.  

However, Utah is great . . albeit a bit dry (beverage-wise).

But, best of all, ski Colorado.....anywhere.