HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: hauna@simpsons.EBay.Sun.COM (Hauna Brett)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Deore XT hub seals
Date: 5 Jan 1993 07:17:16 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Distribution: world
Reply-To: hauna@simpsons.EBay.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: simpsons.ebay.sun.com

What is the purpose of those two little holes on the bearing
seals on the XT hub?  It's a plastic lockring deal that says
"open" and "close"... the instruction manual says no mention
of what it is/does.

I'm supposing the orifice is for injecting grease.  If so,
where can i get an attachment to fit my tube of grease?

Thanks in advance.

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: drela@athena.mit.edu (Mark Drela)
Subject: Re: wide-range gearing
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 14:19:27 GMT

In article <1993Jan10.021111.23469@leland.Stanford.EDU>, lloyd@leland.Stanford.EDU (William Koenig Lloyd) writes:
|> 
|> Maybe my gearing isn't low enough (26x28), but it seems that once the 
|> speeds drop below about 3.5 mph, it's easier and faster to get off and
|> walk/run up the hill before I blow up.  If the speeds are low, I nearly
|> always end up passing people who are still riding.  It seems like some
|> energy is wasted just keeping the bike under control (and both wheels
|> tracking on the ground) at these low speeds.

3.5 mph in a 26/28 gear implies about 50 pedal rpm.  You could probably
go faster on the bike in a smaller gear if you can stay upright.

                   Mark Drela
             _______________________________
    o/LO  .' 
     O  .'  Gravity-Powered Technologies Lab 
      .'  MIT Aero-Astro Department  33-214
     '
From: truesdel@ics.uci.edu (Scott Truesdell)
Subject: Re: MBA LX review.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Organization: ICS Department, U.C.I.
Date: 12 Jan 93 01:00:32 GMT
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech

In article <1993Jan11.162518.2462@bmerh85.bnr.ca>, paynter@bnr.ca (Stuart
Paynter) wrote:
>
> What component group do you currently ride?

Shimano Deore XT with RapidFire Plus.


> What other groups have you ridden/up/degraded from?

Shimano Deore II and Shimano Deore DX.
Occational rides on LX, Exage, etc. Even some short rides on (gasp!)
Suntour.


> What is your opinon of the % increase/decrease in ride quality?
>
> What is your opinon of the % increase/decrease in durability?

The Deore II was basically the predecessor of the Deore DX in price,
quality, and durability so I'll just talk about DX and XT. Prior to this
year there was a big jump from Exage to LX and an even bigger jump from LX
to DX but the jump from DX to XT is quite small. The main differences seem
to be in finish and bearings. I think the performance between DX and XT is
almost unnoticible. I'd venture that the main reason to have XT on your
back as opposed to DX is status.

However there are huge differences between the old LX stuff and DX. The LX
parts are heavier, not as nicely finished, and perform with less precision.

From appearances alone I think that the new LX gruppo would perform with
precision about the same as the '92 LX stuff--not as precise as DX. And I
think that it looks definitely weaker than DX components.

I like the XT components I currently use on my #1 bike. I have some
apprehension about the XT RapidFire Plus shifters, though. In general I
really like the way they work. The trigger/thumb method is intuitive,
quick, and reliable. However I detect some wear internally and it has
gradually become increasingly more difficult to drop to a smaller rear cog.
Like an internal pawl is wearing.

  --scott
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: quixote@cix.compulink.co.uk (Aurelio Barranco)
Subject: Re: Wheel Wonderings
Reply-To: quixote@cix.compulink.co.uk
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 20:30:00 +0000


> Optimal trnsion for a wheel is when the spokes are about as tight as
> the rim can withstand because the wheel can support loads only until
> the bottom spokes become slack.  Of course being a little low on

Correct me if I am wrong but I thought that the hub at the centre of
the wheel is suspended from the top of the rim by the spoke under
tension. In other words the spoke under the hub (between the hub and
the ground side of the rim) plays no part in the process. Spokes at
the side stop the wheel from buckling.

> gradual loss of wheel alighment.  A spoke that becomes momentarily
> loose, will allow the nipple to unscrew a little at a time.  This is
> the cause of the classic wheel that won't stay true even after
> several trips to the shop.  It is most often too loose.

This would make sense.


Aurelio
From: fattire@vnet.ibm.com (BJ Hargrave)
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 93 14:53:54 EST
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: MBA LX review.
News-Software: UReply 3.0
            <C0I0Ax.JBn@cs.uiuc.edu>

In <C0I0Ax.JBn@cs.uiuc.edu> Terry Thiel writes:
>                                                   You know what's really
>ridiculous IMHO are the Altus bikes with suspension that we're starting to
>see. What's the durability of these things like?  It looks like you could
>break them with your fingers.

Check out the Altus C-10(?) cranks. The chainrings are spot-welded to
the crankarm spider! I guess the chainrings must be really durable. :-)

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
BJ Hargrave                     Internet: fattire@vnet.ibm.com
Boca Raton, FL                  IBMIPNet: bjhar@bjhar.bocaraton.ibm.com
From: sbixby@cup.portal.com (Steven W Bixby)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Deore XT hub seals
Date: Tue,  5 Jan 93 11:05:30 PST
Organization: The Portal System (TM)
Distribution: world

>What is the purpose of those two little holes on the bearing
>seals on the XT hub?  It's a plastic lockring deal that says
>"open" and "close"... the instruction manual says no mention
>of what it is/does.

>I'm supposing the orifice is for injecting grease.  If so,
>where can i get an attachment to fit my tube of grease?

Not quite - don't try poking grease in it.... :-)

The seals will turn on the hub until orange appears in the hole,
then you can pop the seal off easier.  Or at least I think I got
the correct order.

   -swb-   (Steve Bixby - sbixby@cup.portal.com)
From: mattc@npg-sd.SanDiegoCA.NCR.COM (Matt Courtois)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: MBA LX review.
Date: 8 Jan 93 17:10:30 GMT
Organization: NCR Corp., Network Products - San Diego

In <1993Jan8.005740.22250@leland.Stanford.EDU> lloyd@leland.Stanford.EDU (William Koenig Lloyd) writes:
>Yes, Shimano LX stuff is ugly, and it is probably less durable than XTR.  But
>what do you expect?  When it is new it supposedly works as well as XTR.  Of
>course, LX is a whole lot cheaper than XTR, too.  The decrease in price had
>to come from somewhere.  Cheaper materials are one reason.  If you want 
>something that works as well as XTR and lasts as long as XTR, there's a simple
>solution:  buy XTR.  

>As for this stuff about Bridgestone and DX, I don't know what your point is.
>I'll bet the new LX stuff is at least as expensive as DX is, but I haven't seen
>the group prices so I can't be sure.  The new LX stuff (according to MBA at
>least) works better than DX, too.  Ohhh, but wait.  Now I know.  LX doesn't
>offer thumbshifters.  That settles it.  LX (and XTR) are bad things because
>they don't offer thumbshifters.  Never mind the fact that quite a few people
>think they work really well, as whoever yells the loudest wins.  We all know
>who yells loudest around here.

  Sounds like you are having the yelling match with yourself.

  Between the 3 Shimano groups, LX, XT and XTR, one should be able
  to put together a groupo that they want.  XT, with thumbshifters,
  allows different(lighter) levers and brakes to be used.  XT (with
  thumbshifters) and XTR both shift very well, I feel both shift
  better than the XT push-push shifting.

  Who cares what someone else wants to use on their bike.  As long
  as you want what you got is all that matters.

Matt.


>Have a pleasant day now...

>Bill
From: arnie@col.hp.com (Arnie Berger)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Post Script: The Ultimate Homebrew Bike Light
Date: 7 Jan 1993 17:32:38 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division
NNTP-Posting-Host: hplsduc.col.hp.com

I thought I'd pass along a good suggestion that I got from Brad Grande
about the mounting of homebrew bike lights. Brad uses an industrial conduit
hanger for his light. This is a small, clamping device that holds the
steel tubes ( conduit ) which are suspended from the ceilings in most
industrial facilities. The 1/2" size fits MTB handlebars and the 3/4"
size fits road bikes. So if you are one of the 113 or so folks who wrote
to me requesting my bike light plans this is a good mounting scheme  to use.

                                                                Arnie
 
-- 
Arnie Berger
arnie@col.hp.com
Telnet 719-590-5642
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: A10377@waccvm.corp.mot.com (Michael Duke)
Subject: Re: Avocet 30 on a 32-Spoke?
Organization: Motorola
Date: 12 Jan 1993 15:18:28 MST


>I'm transfering my Avocet 30 which the ring was mounted on a 36-spoke t my
>new bike/wheel 32-spoke, only it doesn't quite fit right.  Does AV makea
>ring for the 32-s or what?
                                       -tom

 I encountered the same situation with my new bike - 28 spoke front. I
took the ring and cut off the clips. Then I used some craft glue that
works with both surfaces and is waterproof, and proceeded to glue the
ring to the spokes/hub flange. Never had any problems. I even removed
it to find out if I could (thinking about replacing my Avocet 40 with
a Vetta HR 1000) and re-glued it. Still no problems and I don't
anticipate any (but we'll see since summer here in Az tends to be
quite warm - 110*). I think I remeber seeing this method in Bicycling
or something, but they used something other than a glue I believe.


Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: paynter@bnr.ca (Stuart Paynter)
Subject: Re: MBA LX review.
Reply-To: paynter@bnr.ca (Stuart Paynter)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 93 21:13:45 GMT

In article <1674@blue.cis.pitt.edu>, jwgst2+@pitt.edu (James W Gourgoutis) writes:
|> In article <1993Jan11.162518.2462@bmerh85.bnr.ca> paynter@bnr.ca (Stuart Paynter) writes:
|> > I run a full Shimano DX package (with RF - sorry 
|> >Terry but I like them ;)  ).  I noticed a subjective 85-90% improvement 
|> >from the Exage 400LX on my previous bike.  
|> 	WHERE have you noticed the improvement?  Do things just work better?
|> Or are they just lighter?  I'm really curious!!!
|> 

Here's why I like Deore DX more than Exage 400LX stuff (more or less in
order of importance).

1) Braking power and modulation.  Went from "4-finger" levers to "two-finger"
   levers (with Servo-wave?).  Better feel, control, power.

2) Shifting.  They shifter quicker, quieter.  There is less throw in the 
   RF levers and a more positve feel.  The levers also release and engage
   more smoothly than the "clunky" feeling off the 400s.

3) Biopace to round rings.  I had no real problems with BP but I think 
   now that I prefer the roud rings.  

4) I haven't weighed them but so I won't claim absolutes.  400LX stuff has
   a lot of resin coated steel parts (ie cantilevers) where the DX is alloy.
   Its gotta be lighter.

5) The Rocky Mountain (DX) came without a cartridge bottom bracket.  The
   Marin (400LX) did.  I wrecked the cartridge in 3 months and they are a
   bitch to service.

6) The DX hubset is a lot smoother.  I can't say how much I notice when
   hammering out in the single track but there sure is a big difference
   twisting the axle in your fingers.  Also DX hubbed wheels are usually
   spec'd with decent, narrow, double walled rims, and DT (or equivalent)
   spokes.  I went from Araya VP-20 rimes to Wolbler AT-18 rims.  Huge
   improvement.

7) This may not count (so I put it at the bottom of the list).  DX-SPD
   pedals are soooooooooooo much better than the plastic bodied, unserviceable
   crap pedals that come on 400LX bikes that there really is no comparison.
   The reason why I say it doesn't count as SPDs haven't (until recently)
   been spec'd as OEM equipment on many bikes (and not on the RM I bought).


I haven't ridden the DX stuff long enough to attest to its durability.  I 
rode the 400LX for the entire summer before upgrading to DX and the only 
problem I had was blowing out the BB.

I haven't ridden any other components for an appreciable amount of time
to pass judgement either.

Cheers...Stuart
From: casseres@apple.com (David Casseres)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: measuring chain wear?
Date: 11 Jan 93 23:56:06 GMT
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech
Organization: Apple Computer Inc.

In article <19312@mindlink.bc.ca>, Richard_Hennick@mindlink.bc.ca (Richard
Hennick) wrote:
> 
> According to "Bicycle Maintenance and Repair", it's time to replace a chain
> when 12 links measure 12 1/8 inches.  A moment's thought tells me this is
> (approximately) equivalent to 1 percent "stretch".

Many people (including me) like to replace the chain when it's elongated
only 1/16" over 12 "full" links, i.e. 24 1/2" links.

Here's how to measure.  You need a straightedge marked in inches.  Lean the
bike against a wall, with the wheels on the ground.  Put a little pressure
on the pedal with one hand, to take the slack out of the chain.  Lay the
straightedge along the top of the chain, and line up the 0 mark with the
center of a chain pin.  Now look at the 12" mark.  On a brand-new chain it
will line up with the center of a pin; if your chain is worn, it will be a
bit to the right of the pin center.  If it's 1/16" (or 1/8", depending on
your religion), replace the chain.

--

David Casseres
Exclaimer: Hey!
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: richard@pegasus.com (Richard Foulk)
Subject: Re: Rube Goldberg device wanted...
Organization: Pegasus,  Honolulu
Date: Sat, 2 Jan 93 01:36:26 GMT

In article <1992Dec24.000340.12138@kestrel.edu> king@reasoning.com (Dick King) writes:
>The Ultimate Chain Cleaner would...
>
>
>   in a bath of clean solvent/lubricant...
>
>
>      take apart, hold apart for a second or two, and then reassemble one
>      link, and then step the chain to the next link.
>
>      If you build it right you need not remove the bike from the chain, yet
>      you would get far more grit out than you could hope to with any other
>      method. 

Hmm.  Perhaps chains could be designed with some kind of simple cleaning
machine in mind ...  maybe some kind of `vents' on each link to blow
solvent through.




-- 
Richard Foulk		richard@pegasus.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tthiel@cs.uiuc.edu (Terry Thiel)
Subject: Re: MBA LX review.
Organization: University of Illinois, Dept. of Comp. Sci., Urbana, IL
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 01:47:05 GMT

news@massey.ac.nz (USENET News System) writes:
>tthiel@cs.uiuc.edu (Terry Thiel) wrote:
>> [...] I don't see how you can conclude that
>> the LX compoents are good value for the dollar.  If they > were cheaper maybe but they're generally selling for the > same price as DX!  What is the signifcant 
>> improvement to justify this?  
>The DX line has been discontinued, and has been *replaced* by LX, which is
>every bit as good in terms of performance and quality of componentry as the
>old DX (apart from the painted cranks which I don't like either.)

Oops, Phil you got this wrong.  DX has NOT been discontinued.  Shimano will
still manufacture and sell if as an aftermarket item but discourages it's use
as a standard component group on new bikes.  Fortunately Bridgestone and a
few other compnaies are speci'ng it for 93 anyway.  In fact my 1993 Bridgestone
MB-3 is on it;s way to me even as we speak. ;)
Perhaps the new LX performs as well as DX but I seriously doubt it will last
as long as DX.
>Bill Lloyd writes:
>> [...] LX doesn't offer thumbshifters.  That settles it.  
>> LX (and XTR) are bad things because they don't offer 
>> thumbshifters. [...]
>But LX does.  As far as I know, DX & XT above bar thumbshifters are still
>available.  Even if DX have been discontinued, XT thumbshifters are still
>about half the price of DX and (by assumption) new LX RapidFire shifters.

A few companies had the guts to use thumbshifters with LX and they are
generally using DX thumbshifters.  Cannondale is one that I have seen.
Too bad they didn't have the cajones to stay with DX.
-Terry

-- 
-Terry
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: news@massey.ac.nz (USENET News System)
Subject: Computers: High Speed Readings
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech
Organization: SMIS, Massey University
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 93 21:10:21 GMT

I have read a number of articles in the past about people getting
rediculously high speed readings on their cycle computers.  I can't
remember whether or not the problem was confined to Cateye computers, but
it happened to my Cateye last night.

At speeds of over approximately 30 km/h (20 mph) the speed showed roughly
double the actual speed.  I finally remembered that the sensor had been
moved when the bike was in the back of my car, and noticed that the magnet
passed by a lot closer than it used to.  The solution was to increase the
clearance between the magnet and sensor slightly, to between 1-2 mm.

--
Phil Etheridge               P.Etheridge@massey.ac.nz
Macintosh Consultant         Phone: +64+6-356-9099 x8689
SMIS, Massey University      Fax:   +64+6-350-5611
Palmerston North, NZ         40*23'S 175*37'E,    GMT+13
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech,rec.bicycles.marketplace,rec.bicycles.misc
From: david@postman.gr.osf.org (David George)
Subject: Re: Bulldog tire chains - opinions?
Organization: OSF RI Grenoble
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 08:17:49 GMT

In article <16B491296B.EPLUS17@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu>, EPLUS17@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu (Richard Engelbrecht-Wiggans) writes:
|> In article <1992Dec31.115047.1@kean.ucs.mun.ca>
|> msimpson@kean.ucs.mun.ca writes:
|>  
|> >I was wondering if anyone has had any experience using Bulldog tires
|> >chains for winter riding?

|> (Ithink IRC made/makes one called the Blizzard).

this is correct, it costs about $25.

|>  
|> Note:  Someone, maybe Jobst, recently discussed the physics of
|> traction on ice.  I believe that the assertion was that rubber
|> gets pretty good traction on ice so long as there isn't any water;

but there nearly always is water, probably the pressure of the tire on
ice is sufficent to create a microscopic layer of water and hence cause
slippage (this is how skates work).  I have never been able to grip on ice,
even in a dry Munich winter at -25C.

I did some experiments with chains up on the ski pistes at Alpe d'Huez
over Christmas.  I think they are not satisfactory for use on ice,
especially not the winter bob run !  This is for much the same reasons
as above, the chain won't grip on wet ice and you don't exert enough
pressure to make it dig in.  Havn't tried studded tires but I could imagine
these are more successful.

On snow there is no problem with grip and traction.  As always it's the
hidden ice which will catch you out.   I could descend faster than the
skiers on the Sarenne piste (footpath section), Europe's longest black run.
Watch those mogul though.

David

p.s. quite a few people were riding up to Alpe d'Huez.
From: mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Mackintosh)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Wheel Wonderings
Date: 4 Jan 93 13:22:38 GMT
Reply-To: mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Mackintosh)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.bicycles.tech, chandler@wc.novell.com (Mark Chandler) writes:

>You could try Wheelsmith's 14/16/14 spokes.  They're lighter than
>14/15/14s and probably just as strong (I weigh 195 and ride them
>off-road with Mavic Mod3Ds).

Has anyone seen the new Ritchey "Spoken Logic" spokes.  From what I've
read, these are DT butted spokes with longer thinned sections.  This
seems like a better idea to me than thinner spokes for weight reduction.

>>- If Mavic Open 4 "Argent" rims are just "silver anodized"

>"Argent" usually means silver anodized.  Although some "Argent"
>rims have double eyelets whereas the non-Argents do not.

I've seen some of the Open 4 Argent rims and the finish is not the same
as the MA-2 rims, which seem to be polished or have a shiny clear coating.
The Argent rims are mat silver but I do not know what the process is.

I just built some MTB wheels with XT 32h hubs, DT 14/15 spokes, and
Mavic M231 silver rims.  With Ritchey WCS 2.1 tires I dropped about
a pound of rotating mass and they feel great.  (Quickens the handling,
too.)  One difficulty with these rims is setting up the cantilever pads,
since the sidewalls are so short.  Some curved pads would probably help
(I'm using Aztecs).

David Mackintosh
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: lind0014@student.tc.umn.edu ()
Subject: Re: Plastic Ring on rear Wheel 
Organization: University of Minnesota
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 00:13:21 GMT

In article <h0+3wmn@rpi.edu> dinsmm@aix.rpi.edu (Michael Dinsmore) writes:
>I have what might seem to be a trivial question?"
>Is the plastici ring next to the freewheel on the 
>back tire important?  Where can you get a replacement    
>if you need one?  

Yes, it's important if your read derailleur isn't quite adjusted right. 
Under the proper conditions you can accidentally shift down below the
lowest gear and catch the chain in the spokes.  This tears up your spokes,
blows your wheel way out of true (and makes it hard to re-true with chewed 
up spokes, and if you have really bad luck can tear your derailleur in half.
Very dangerous in traffic. (I know.  It happened to me, but fortunately it
was only a 200GS derailleur).  At least some bike shops sell the ring. 
They make at least two different kinds- one for freehubs and one for
freewheels.  Unless you are extremely fastidious about derailleur
adjustments you should replace it.

Chris Lindensmith
lind0014@student.tc.umn.edu
University of Minnesota
From: jcollias@src.dec.com (Jim Collias)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Help! Trickle-charging a gel-cell?
Date: 11 Jan 93 22:56:55 GMT
Organization: DEC Systems Research Center

Hi all,

I'm gonna buy me a 4 AH 12 v rechargable gel-cell for my home-brew lighting
system and I don't wanna spend the
extra $30 for the charger.  I've read here that you can 'trickle-charge' one of
these batteries with an existing ac-dc adapter, and I have a few of those lying
around.

How should I go about doing this, ie. what volt/miliamp adapter should I use,
is is it safe to leave it overnight, how long until full charge, etc...

Thanks,

Jim