HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jrb@Ingres.COM (John Black)
Subject: Re: No More Wright-Ups?
Organization: Ingres, an ASK Company, Alameda CA 94501
Distribution: usa
Date: 10 Nov 92 20:49:30 GMT

In article <1992Nov10.050018.2493@ucsu.Colorado.EDU> rainer@spot.Colorado.EDU (Rainer Malzbender) writes:
>In article <0096335F.1D97DD80@Msu.oscs.montana.edu> uchpcjv@Msu.oscs.montana.edu writes:
>>
>>(1)  Yes, Bill, unfortunately there does seem to be a bit of an anti-
>>Californian sentiment in the Boulder area.  No idea why.
>
>Well, here are the reasons:
>
>	1. Californians have this attitude problem about Yosemite, even though
>	   Kor proved during his trips to "the valley" in the sixties that
>	   Colorado climbers reign supreme.
>
This is ludicrous; Kor's trips to the valley did not prove that "Colorado
climbers reigned supreme," they proved that Kor reigned supreme.  Not to 
mention that although Kor's valley exploits were notable, "reign supreme" is
probably a bit of an overstatement considering that there were many other
climbers in the valley in the 60's who also accomplished notable things.

The thing about Kor which impresses me more than anything else was not what he
did in the valley, but the fact that he went everywhere and climbed everything
with an incredible success rate and an inexhaustible supply of enthusiasm.

Colorado has produced some of the best climbers this country has ever seen:
John Gill (without peer in his era), Pat Ament, Charlie Fowler, Jeff Lowe,
Roger Briggs, Jim Collins, John Harlin, Leonard Coyne, etc. (Apologies in 
advance for omissions or wrongly-placed names... going from memory...)

>          And, to tell the truth, we
>	   (well, they, really) are a bit insecure in that belief, what
>	   with Robbins, Rearick, Collins and others plucking many of our
>	   jewels out from under our very noses.
>
Yes, Yosemite climbers were more advanced than Colorado climbers in the 60's;
but none of that applies anymore these days.  Plus, anyone who tries to cop
an attitude because of this kind of thing isn't worth talking to anyway...

-------

Maybe Bill would like to comment... He grew up in Colorado, went to Univ of
Colorado at Boulder, then went to Stanford and now lives in California.  He
doesn't say "dude" or "rad", but he does say "maybe you should let me lead
this one since you have a wife and kids".  (Famous Kor line used to steal
leads from unsuspecting partners.)

john//
From: trzyna@CS.ColoState.EDU (wayne trzyna)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: Fanny Bullock-Workman (was K2)
Date: 7 Nov 92 01:05:35 GMT
Organization: Colorado State University, Computer Science Department

In article <BxB1x3.6vD@cup.hp.com> morrison@cup.hp.com (Bobbie_Morrison) writes:
>
>
>I vaguely remember somebody named Fanny who was an early woman mountaineer
>(*where* did I read that.....)
>
>What do you know about her Struan?

There is a book (either Falcon Press or Mountaineers I think) about
pioneer women explorers or some such, which devotes a chapter to
her exploits.  It's worth reading.

-- 

-Wayne Trzyna
 trzyna@CS.ColoState.EDU
From: coomer@ocf.berkeley.edu (Eric Coomer)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: Re: No More Write-Ups?
Date: 12 Nov 1992 19:28:35 GMT
Organization: U.C. Berkeley Open Computing Facility
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: earthquake.berkeley.edu

>c) tying off the shaft of a rigid Friend (hmm sounds racy!), d)
>other devious techniques?
>

Hey this isn't funny.  I was climbing in the Flat Irons of 
Colorado this summer and I'm belaying my partner and this 
guy next to me is totally flailing on this large
roof problem.  I said to myself, "no big deal he's got
a lot of pro in a solid looking crack, no worries."
Then I looked- NO SHIT he had a nice rigid stem #3 freind
in this beautiful HORIZONTAL crack.  Not only that but the
exact midpoint of the stem was hanging over the edge.

I saw a similar incident in the Gunks about a month before.
And here I thought that that was the second lesson you
learned(well not literally) after "Don't ever let go of 
the rope when belaying."  If your going to use rigid stem
friends like this then take the time to string them properly.

Scary stuff.

Eric
From: tpm@ecs (TP Monks)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: Fall Factor II
Date: 9 Nov 92 10:47:31 GMT

allen%asylum.cs.utah.edu@cs.utah.edu (Allen Sanderson) writes:

<pretentious stuff deleted>

>In article <13394@ecs.soton.ac.uk> tpm@ecs (TP Monks) writes:

>>so consider taking a factor 1 fall:
>>Falling 10m will give you rope 10 times more energy to absorb than falling 
>>1m, but you'll also have 10 times more rope out to absorb it,
>>so the energy that each cm of rope absorbs is always the same,

>True in this particular case, which is when the fall factor
>remains constant with each fall, FALSE otherwise.  Proof by example is
>not acceptable unless you can prove it for every case.  Try again with
>a different fall factors, you will find that the ammount of energy each
>cm of rope aborbs is different for different fall factors.
						   
You loser! I just said, consider a factor 1 fall.



>Since I am a licensed engineer and have done dynamic and static
>testing of climbing equipment I will graciously accept any and all
>corrections.  
			   
"Do you know, you are probably the man the most in need of a blow job
in the whole of history".
(Approximate but appropriate quote from Robin Williams in 
'Good Morning Vietman').

Is a simple reading test not required in order to become a *licensed* 
engineer in the USA? I also hope that in the US they don't wait until 
the 1st yr to teach you PE=mgh.

I hope you take this graciously,
Tim

ps, I note your addr is allen%asylum.cs.utah.edu@cs.utah.edu, I guess this
is significant :-)            ------
--
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tim Monks                                Vision, Speech and Signal Processing
tpm@ecs.soton.ac.uk                                    Southampton University
Tel: +44 (703) 592774                                   Fax: +44 (703) 592895
From: eao@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Ed Ogle)
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 17:48:45 GMT
Subject: Re: Decking on the 1st Pitch of Touch and Go
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA
Newsgroups: rec.climbing

In rec.climbing, bhilden@bigriver.Eng.Sun.COM (Bruce Hildenbrand) writes:

> For those of you that have lamented about decking on the 1st pitch
> of Touch and Go on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon, there is a very
> good thread for a runner just before you commit to the traverse.  If
> you cannot find the thread, you have been spending too much time in the
> climbing gym staring at big bolts, get out and get on real rock!
> 
> Let's hear it for natural pro!
> 
> Bruce
> 

Yes!  What I do is thread a large stopper through from the rear at this point.
I use a stopper which is way to big to be pulled through.  

-ed
From: nicolas@stam.nl (Nico Veenkamp)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: Carabiner brake, was Re: No More Write-Ups?
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 92 10:56:04 CET
Organization: Stam Tijdschriften bv, Rijswijk, The Netherlands

caldwell@cs.cornell.edu (Jim Caldwell) writes:

> In article <1992Nov11.162956.5721@ncar.ucar.edu>, ilana@kiowa.scd.ucar.edu (I
> |> 
> |> This is not the carabiner brake system I use.  What I do -- this is my
> |> standard rap system, I dislike rapping on a Sticht plate -- is clip two

Question: What is a Sticht plate.
For rappelling I use a piece of metal in the form of a figure eight. 
What is the english name for this device. Following up to this leads me 
to the next question. Is there a dictionary that translates english 
climber terms to german/french and vice-versa. 


      *================================================================*
      |  Nico Veenkamp	        | You write, we publish                |
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      |  P.O. Box 235           | Internet : nicolas@stam.nl           |
      |  2280 AE  Rijswijk      | FidoNet  : 2:281/1.7                 |
      |  The Netherlands        | BIX      : nicolas                   |
      *================================================================*
From: nicolas@stam.nl (Nico Veenkamp)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: Is there anybody...OUT THERE?
Date: Mon, 09 Nov 92 20:00:19 CET
Organization: Stam Tijdschriften bv, Rijswijk, The Netherlands

brendan@buck.ac.uk (Brendan Murphy) writes:
> 
> [By the way, on the basis of only a brief encounter with Wolfgang Gullich in
> Pakistan, I can echo sentiments that his death is a sad loss to the climbing
> world; I will always remember his charm, enthusiasm, and sincerety.  Very few
> people have managed to match his ability on the rock as well as in the 
> mountains.]
> 
Do you mean Gullich is dead? Since when? haven't heard about it. If true 
than  great climber has indeed befallen us. (sorry, pun NOT intended)


      *================================================================*
      |  Nico Veenkamp	        | You write, we publish                |
      |  Stam Tijdschriften bv  | -------------------------------------|
      |  P.O. Box 235           | Internet : nicolas@stam.nl           |
      |  2280 AE  Rijswijk      | FidoNet  : 2:281/1.7                 |
      |  The Netherlands        | BIX      : nicolas                   |
      *================================================================*
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: eugene@wilbur.nas.nasa.gov (Eugene N. Miya)
Subject: Re: K2
Organization: NAS, NASA Ames Research Center, Moffett Field, CA
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 92 21:39:30 GMT
Distribution: rec

In article <1992Nov5.180931.7816@rz-berlin.mpg.de> gray@rz-berlin.mpg.de
(Struan Gray) writes:
>  Much as I hate to contradict Eugene, and much as I hate to pontificate

I don't see the contradiction, but feel free to pontificate.  Everybody
does here.

>  K1 looks higher from the point in Kashmir from which the Survey of

Covered in followups.

>only climbing bibliophiles like myself have heard of Fanny B-W.

She is in the history books.

--eugene miya, NASA Ames Research Center, eugene@orville.nas.nasa.gov
  Associate Editor, Software and Publication Reviews
  Scientific Programming
  {uunet,mailrus,other gateways}!ames!eugene
Seeking Books to buy:	Bongard, Pattern Recognition
			3 down 1 to go.
From: AS.MSW@forsythe.stanford.edu (Marc Whitney)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: Re: No More Write-Ups?
Date: 12 Nov 1992 13:38:52 -0800
Organization: Stanford University
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: morrow.stanford.edu

In article <1dub93INNmto@agate.berkeley.edu>,
coomer@ocf.berkeley.edu (Eric Coomer) writes:
>
>Hey this isn't funny.  I was climbing in the Flat Irons of
>Colorado this summer and I'm belaying my partner and this
>guy next to me is totally flailing on this large
>roof problem.  I said to myself, "no big deal he's got
>a lot of pro in a solid looking crack, no worries."
>Then I looked- NO SHIT he had a nice rigid stem #3 freind
>in this beautiful HORIZONTAL crack.  Not only that but the
>exact midpoint of the stem was hanging over the edge.
>
For the record I saw one a few years back bent about 60 deg.  At
least they bend a little before they snap.  The owner of thid Friend
had a rather sober expression while showing off his "trophy".


Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: rwaters@spdg.com (Rolland Waters)
Subject: Re: IMAX theaters
Organization: Stratos Product Development Group (Seattle)
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 17:26:50 GMT

>|> sinclair@cc.usu.edu (Bob Sinclair) writes:
>|> >Anyone heard anything about an IMAX theater presentation that includes
>|> >footage of a climber taking a big whipper? 

>In article <>, eric@milton.u.washington.edu (Eric Hirst) writes:
>|> Truly the worst climbing footage I've ever seen...  

In article <> storm@geog.utah.edu (John Storm) writes:
>Not the same one I saw ... the flic was about the human body and how it
>handles stress and adrenaline.  I saw it at the NYC Museum of Nat. Hist..
>It was composed of footage on DH ski racing, Ballet, some thing else??, and
>climbing.  

>The climber was Tony Yanaro(sp?) somewhere in the valley.  He is
>at the lip of a roof, panics and falls (granted set up!).  Gear pulls, he
>goes for a BIG ride and is left in space ~1000' off the deck. 

You guys *are* talking about the same film, "To The Limits".  The
climbing sequences look really awesome, if you don't climb.  Nice
ride, but he clearly jumped off!  


Cheers,

Rolland
From: bhilden@bigriver.Eng.Sun.COM (Bruce Hildenbrand)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: Chopped routes in Logan Canyon
Date: 5 Nov 1992 19:03:05 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Mt. View, Ca.
NNTP-Posting-Host: bigriver

In article <1992Nov4.205258.60400@cc.usu.edu> sinclair@cc.usu.edu (Bob Sinclair) writes:
>Just as you thought it was safe to put on your shoes.....
>daaaa dum, daaa daaaa dum! dum dum dum etc
>Five routes have been removed by an unknown chopper. Bolts, hangers and 
>Kentucky Fried Penguin, 5.10a, easy access, Canyons most travelled route
>Kentucky Fried Chicken, 5.10a (?) easy access, Brand new

Oh, man!  If you are going to chop sport routes, there are enough 5.12/
5.13 climbs in this world that I will never do.  But, please leave those
routes that us mere mortals have a chance of climbing.

Bruce
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: runekol@hsr.no (Rune Koldal)
Subject: Re: UIAA .. standards of ropes (The Fall Test)
Organization: Rogaland University Centre
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 17:23:43 GMT

In article <jking.720658822@syzygy>, jking@socs.uts.edu.au (smathy werp) writes:
> j_elison@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Jeff Elison) writes:
> 
> > 
> >> 	the UIAA falls use a 5m length of rope (conversion above) and a
> >> 	biner 2.5m along the rope .. they then lift the weight (80kg on a
> >> 	single rope) as high as they can above the biner (ie. 2.5m above the
> >> 	biner .. ie. the fall will be 5m on a 2.5m length fallen on) and then
> >> 	release it
> 
> >Wrong and wrong.  First, that's not what they do.  The drop is 4.8m on
> >2.8m of rope.
> 
  And wrong again, the UIAA fall is 5m with 2.8m rope.

                        * - 80kg (single rope)
                        |
                        |
                        |
                        |
                        |
                        * - biner
                        |
                        |
                        * - Anchor

  This gives a fall factor of 5/2.8 = 1.78

  Because of the reduced impact force when the rope is
lying over a biner, this is the best (most realistic) way
to test the rope.


  
--------------------------------------------
|                Rune Koldal.              |
|                                          |
| The higher you get the safer you are,    |
| there are no trucks in the moutains ! !  |
|                                          |
--------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: eugene@wilbur.nas.nasa.gov (Eugene N. Miya)
Subject: Threading runners was : Decking 
Keywords: terminology, lingo, thread
Organization: NAS, NASA Ames Research Center, Moffett Field, CA
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 92 21:32:21 GMT

In article <i6e5TB3w165w@stam.nl> nicolas@stam.nl (Nico Veenkamp) writes:
>> What is a "thread for a runner?"  I never heard the term. I can make a
>> 
>> I am posting instead of E-mail on the egocentric assumption that if
>> I don't know the term, there may be others who never heard it either.
>> 
>You're darn right :-) I can figure out most of the times what you guysare 
>talking about. But sometimes it just keeps me flabbergasted. I am more 
>used to german/french terms.

English/American jargon.

Runner: a sling, a tie-off, a piece of webbing or rope used as a utility to
extend the range of an anchor or piece of pro.  Has many uses.  To thread
means to find a hole, a flake, etc. and push the tie off and wrap it up
for a natural means of protection.  Beginners must do carefully.

--eugene miya, NASA Ames Research Center, eugene@orville.nas.nasa.gov
  Associate Editor, Software and Publication Reviews
  Scientific Programming
  {uunet,mailrus,other gateways}!ames!eugene
Seeking Books to buy:	Bongard, Pattern Recognition
			3 down 1 to go.
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: peterson-john@CS.Yale.Edu (John C. Peterson)
Subject: Triassic Sands
Organization: Computer Science, Yale University, New Haven, CT 06520-2158
Distribution: rec
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 22:07:11 GMT

November?  Cold!!!!  North facing!  Cold hand jams!  No sun at all!
Still, maybe on a warm day.  Good route.  Well protected & nice
jamming.  Bring a few extra #3 Camalots / #9 hexes.  Seriously, you
should probably be thinking south or east facing walls.  I've frozen
my butt off there in March.  Oh yeah, the pancake under the roof is
solid.  Really.

  John
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: ilana@kiowa.scd.ucar.edu (Ilana Stern)
Subject: Re: Re: No More Write-Ups?
Organization: NCAR/UCAR
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 22:31:46 GMT

In article <1992Nov10.120954.1@happy.colorado.edu>, srclark@happy.colorado.edu writes:
> ...I decided to just slap
> >on a hip belay since he had our only belay device. Bad move. He peeled
                                                      ^^^^^^^^
> No shit! Multi-pitch with one belay-RAPPEL device??  

> >With blood dripping down my hands I soloed the rest of the climb ... no,
> >wait, that's not true -- I bailed off.
                           ^^^^^^^^^^^^
 
> What did you do jump? You didn't have a rap device! Jesus, you're scary.

You *do* know how to rappel with a carabiner brake, don't you?

This isn't just a frivolous posting, it's a reminder that if you know
only one way to do things, you may end up in trouble.

-- 
/\     There may be honor among thieves, but there's none among politicians.
  \_][ <--NCAR Ilana Stern dod#009 r.b. cliff swallow ilana@ncar.ucar.edu    
      \______________________________________________________________________
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: kjl@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com (K J Leiden)
Subject: Favorite Kor quote was Re: No More Wright-Ups?
Organization: Lockheed
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 92 16:02:08 GMT

In article <1992Nov10.204930.19418@pony.Ingres.COM> jrb@Ingres.COM (John Black) writes:
>doesn't say "dude" or "rad", but he does say "maybe you should let me lead
>this one since you have a wife and kids".  (Famous Kor line used to steal
>leads from unsuspecting partners.)
>
>john//

My favorite is Kor saying "Don't fall now or we'll both go!" 
to numerous partners throughout the '60s.  

I love yelling this one to my second anytime my belay is marginal.


-- 
Ken Leiden
Sunnyvale, CA
kjl@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com 
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Newsgroups: rec.climbing

> 
> '79 (way ahead of its time, in any case). He also did an early (if not the
> first) ascent of Sphinx Crack 5.13 (South Platte?). Anyway...
> 

(Nit pick comment:)

Second ascent I believe.  Steve Hong (He of the Little Fingers) did the 
first ascent.  Steve did it in two pitches but Tony strung them together,
making it harder.

John

Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: eugene@wilbur.nas.nasa.gov (Eugene N. Miya)
Subject: Re: Climbing Movies
Organization: NAS, NASA Ames Research Center, Moffett Field, CA
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 92 02:04:21 GMT

Chessler sells climbing films.  Numerous documentary companies
market them like Pyramid Films in Santa Monica.

--eugene miya, NASA Ames Research Center, eugene@orville.nas.nasa.gov
  Associate Editor, Software and Publication Reviews
  Scientific Programming
  {uunet,mailrus,other gateways}!ames!eugene
Seeking Books to buy:	Bongard, Pattern Recognition
			3 down 1 to go.
From: jbreslin@cs.strath.ac.uk (John A Breslin IE90)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Munroes : Gael Charn
Date: 9 Nov 92 11:38:56 GMT
Organization: Comp. Sci. Dept., Strathclyde Univ., Glasgow, Scotland.
Originator: jbreslin@simpson-06


 I thought I'd send this posting world-wide to see if there are any exiles
out there, if not, then I'll limit it to 'eunet' or 'uk' in future.

 Myself and a few others took a wee wander up to Gael C. at the week-end.
There are four munroes with this title, the one in question being at the
SW end of the Monadh Liath up by Dalwhinnie.

 The trip up and down took around 5hrs - caused by a novel summit approach
(from the SE cliff - not suggested in 'The Book'). This could be problematic
when icy, but it wasn't so it wasn't. Descent was via the circular route 
around the northern side of the weatern corrie - look at the map you'll
see what I mean.

 Ok, the weather was not too exciting - cold and windy (bitter at the top) -
and the 'thaw' during the week had put paid to most of the snow (only
patchy). However the views down to Ben Alder were pretty amazing - need to
keep that one in mind for later on.

 Anyway according to the weather reports snow will by falling and lying
above 2000ft this week (we hope), so remember your axes and crampons.

                              John 'Another Tick' B.


        Internet:jbreslin@cs.strath.ac.uk| John A.Breslin, 4th Yr Computer Eng.
 ______ JANET   :jbreslin@uk.ac.strath.cs| Strathclyde Univ, Glasgow, Scotland
|\\##//|
|#\\//#| "For, so long as a hundred of us remain alive, we never will in any
|#//\\#| degree be subject to the dominion of the English. Since it is not for
|//##\\| glory, riches or honours we fight, but for liberty alone, which no
 ~~~~~~  good man loses but with his life." <The Declaration Of Arbroath 1320>
From: tom@afthree.as.arizona.edu (Thomas J. Trebisky)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: Decking on the 1st Pitch of Touch and Go
Keywords: terminology, lingo, thread
Date: 12 Nov 92 20:30:04 GMT
Organization: University of Arizona, Tucson, AZ

sidel+@pitt.edu (Philip S Sidel) writes:
>  (Bruce Hildenbrand) writes:
> >.... there is a very
> >good thread for a runner just before you commit to the traverse.  If
>       ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^   
> >you cannot find the thread, you have been spending too much time in the
> >climbing gym staring at big bolts, get out and get on real rock!
> 
> What is a "thread for a runner?"  I never heard the term.

He is talking about a natural hole or passage in the rock that you can
thread a runner thru and use for protection or an anchor.  When the rock
involved is solid these are really bomber, and omnidirectional -- great
for belay anchors.  Not to mention that they are just neato!

Sometimes a truly captive chockstone, flake, or rock fragment in a crack
will provide a thread, but these can be tricky to evaluate (go for it!).






--
	Tom Trebisky	ttrebisky@as.arizona.edu
...."There's no sense in being precise when you don't even
.... know what you're talking about." 
                       - John von Neumann  
Newsgroups: rec.climbing