HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: mcfarlan@aurigaxerox.com (Doug McFarland)
Subject: Which 210mm 5.6 copal ? 
Reply-To: mcfarland.henr801c@xerox.com
Organization: Xerox Corporation
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 11:37:27 GMT


Prices from B&H (Feb 1993) Sutterbug

			   price    AoV  IC

Sinar       Sinaron-s      $797     72   310
Schneider   APO-Symmar     $792     72   305
Rodenstock  Sironar-N      $625     72   301
Nikkor      Symmetrical    $510     72   301

(AoV = angle of view; IC = image circle)

All of these lenses are 210mm f5.6 copal, ranging in
price from $500 to $800 (all unmounted prices). The cost
difference is presumed to be a quality difference, although
the two top priced lenses do have a larger image circle.
The question is, how much of a quality difference
is there between the Rodenstock and Schneider that
is worth $160. Similarily, is the Sinar
better or worse than the Schneider ? 

Thanks - doug

-- 
                       
                McFarland.henr801c@Xerox.com
From: rane+@cs.cmu.edu (Aaron Hughes)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Plastic Canon
Date: 22 Jan 93 17:11:41 GMT
Article-I.D.: cs.C19MFI.Lzy.2
Distribution: na
Organization: School of Computer Science, Carnegie Mellon

In article <1993Jan22.000638.572@cbnewsm.cb.att.com> ka1gt@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (robert.m.atkins) writes:
>In article <nicholson.11@main.mndly.umn.edu>, nicholson@main.mndly.umn.edu (JOHN JAY NICHOLSON) writes:
>> 
>> Why are most Canon cameras made of mostly plastic?  You pick up the Elan or 
>> the new A2E, and they feel so cheap?  I understand that the EOS 1 is a very 
>> well made camera, and is very durable, but all the others that I have seen 
>> are almost pure plastic.  If you don't believe me, open the back of the A2E 
>> and look.
>
>Well, they are light, durable and probably cheaper to produce. Whether or
>not they will last as long as traditional all metal bodies remains to be
>seen. I have heard reports that they survive drops as well as or better
>than metal bodies. Remember that crash helmets are made of "plastic" not
>metal and they certainly seem to hold up. Not all "plastic" is fragile
>and brittle. On the other hand they do feel "cheap" when compared to an
>all metal camera. Their lightness probably adds to this feeling too. Maybe
>it is just a "feeling" though.

Well, the reason that motorcycle, crash, and flight helmets are made
of polycarbonate/plastic/fiberglass is so that in an accident the 
helmet will deform and perhaps split, thereby absorbing a portion
of the energy of the collison instead of transmitting it to your head.

Aaron



-- 
Aaron Hughes        DoD#0482   		The Freedom Junkie	
rane+@pulsar.fac.cs.cmu.edu		Bad cop. No donut.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jacobson@cello.hpl.hp.com (David Jacobson)
Subject: renewing silica gel
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1993 00:24:19 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories


I've come into possesion a quite large packet of silica gel, perhaps 6
to 8 ounces, that once kept moisture out of an HP X-terminal during
shipment.  I would like to use this for keeping my photo equipment
dry, especially now that California has gotten confused with Seattle.
(Ie its been raining for a several weeks straight.)  I understand that
I can re-activitate the silica gel by putting it in the oven at x
degrees for y hours.  What are the accepted values of x and y?

  -- David Jacobson
From: pd@sics.se (Per Danielsson)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Canon EF teleconverters (was Re: When does price beat out the best choice for you?)
Date: 27 Jan 93 11:11:29 GMT
	<1993Jan25.130101.22896@jarvis.csri.toronto.edu>
	<1993Jan26.151903.25808@ryn.mro4.dec.com>
	<1993Jan26.113934.14097@jarvis.csri.toronto.edu>
Organization: Swedish Institute of Computer Science

In article <1993Jan26.113934.14097@jarvis.csri.toronto.edu> acs@csri.toronto.edu (Alvin Chia-Hua Shih) writes:

>Canon's TCs (for better or for worse) do not fit on
>any lens except those for which they are designed.

How is this done?
--
Per Danielsson				pd@sics.se
Swedish Institute of Computer Science, PO Box 1263, S-164 28 KISTA, SWEDEN
From: accwai@math.uwaterloo.ca (Andy Wai)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Which 210mm 5.6 copal ?
Date: 27 Jan 93 11:57:02 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Math Faculty Computing Facility, University of Waterloo

In article <1k451eINNquf@fnnews.fnal.gov> nicinski@fndaud.fnal.gov (Tom Nicinski) writes:
>In article <C1GvE3.H0D@math.uwaterloo.ca>, accwai@math.uwaterloo.ca (Andy Wai) writes:
>
>                                                        (mm)        (deg)
>Lens                      Length Apert Coverage@f/22 Shift Rise  Swing Tilt
>------------------------- ------ ----- ------------- ----- ----- ----- -----
>Sinaron-S                  210mm f/5.6  310mm  72deg  82.9  90.5  18.0  20.3
>Schneider APO-Symmar       210mm f/5.6  305mm  71deg  80.2  87.8  17.5  19.8
>Nikkor-W                   210mm f/5.6  295mm  70deg  74.9  82.3  16.5  18.7
>
>|> If angular coverage are the same, how can image circle be different?
>
>The angle of coverage is only an approximation.  Use the image circle to get the
>actual angle of coverage (72.86 vs. 71.97 vs. 70.17 degrees).

Actually they're both approximations.  The "image circle" that got thrown
around all the time is actually the circle of good definition.  The image
doesn't drop off abruptly at the edge of the published circle.  It softens
up and falls off gradually.  The exact published circle size therefore
depends heavily on what each manufacturer mean by good definition, which
is quite arbitrary in my experience.  So a degree or two usually mean very
little in practical terms.

Andy Wai
From: dbernard@clesun.Central.Sun.COM (Dave Bernard)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Rolleiflex 2.8 GX
Date: 25 Jan 1993 14:02:44 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems
Distribution: world
Reply-To: dbernard@clesun.Central.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: clesun.central.sun.com

In article 220400@imhfhp16.epfl.ch, byrde@imhfhp16.epfl.ch (Olivier Byrde) writes:
>Hi,
>
>I have a chance to buy an old Rolleiflex 2.8 GX, but I do not know if it
>is a good bargain. Does anyone have any information about this camera ?
>Its lens is a Planar 80 'made by Rollei', but is it better or poorer than
>the one made by Zeiss for Hasselblad ? In any case, what is the difference ?
>(The dealer said it was sharper :-) Is it true ??) And what is the current
>price of this camera (new or used) in the USA or in Germany ?
>
>Thanks all,
>
>Olivier


The Planar 2.8/80mm is the same optical formula in the Rollei and in the Hasselblad,
so there should be no difference in theory.  If both were made to similar tolerances,
I doubt if you'll ever notice any difference- and both are now multicoated.

Rollei puts no suggested list price on these cameras in the US, and leaves it up
to the dealers.  Cheapest I've seen them advertised new is around $2000.  How old
is yours, what kind of condition, what are they asking?  Only then can you evaluate
if it is a good bargain...
	Dave



Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: rsojka@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (robert.e.sojka)
Subject: Canon Lenses?
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 16:07:08 GMT

I'm trying to decide on a lense for my Canon. Since I'm a novice I really
don't know much on the differances between some of the lenses. Can
someone explain the differances between the following lenses. Ability,
cost etc..

	- EF 35-80mm  f/4.5-5.6U
	- EF 35-105mm f/4.5-5.6U zoom lense
	- EF 28-105mm f/3.5-4.5U
	- EF 28-80mm  f/3.5-5.6U
	- EF 35-105mm f/3.5-5.6U zoom lense

I know what a zoom lense is but do all of these lenses have zoom capabilities
since they are indicated with a variable size?

Which lense is the best all around general purpose lense or one I should start
with first?

Do these lenses have equivalents in another brand that may be less expensive?

Any information would be really appreciated. Also if this is something I
can find in a FAQ could someone let me know how to access the FAQ?

Thanks in advance for any information.


- Bob
From: HERMES1@cup.portal.com (Douglas Brian Opfer)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Canon EOS A2 or A2E?
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 93 22:02:06 PST
Organization: The Portal System (TM)
Distribution: usa

I'm considering purchasing one of the Canon A2's and am interested in any
opinions regarding the eye controlled focus on the A2E.  Is this really a
worthwhile feature or something that would rarely be used?  Also, is this
the ONLY difference between these two cameras?  Any comments or opinions
would be helpful, especially from those who have already made this choice.

Thanks in advance,
Doug Opfer
(HERMES1@cup.portal.com)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: phr@telebit.com (Paul Rubin)
Subject: Re: Sigma 24mm/2.8: Good quality?
Organization: Telebit Corporation; Sunnyvale, CA, USA
	<106063@netnews.upenn.edu>
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 02:05:38 GMT

      Another point is that, since Nikon AF cameras (with a few exceptions
    I understand) can still accept manual focus lenses, you can save a lot
    of money if you buy the manual focus version for Nikon.  It doesn't
    make much sense to me to get an autofocus wide angle lens.  The lens
    is rarely out of focus, and the depth of field scale is usually much
    more useful anyway.

On the 8008 at least, you need an AF lens to get matrix balanced
fill flash.  This is useful even with a wideangle.
From: mcfarlan@aurigaxerox.com (Doug McFarland)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re:  Storing/Filing Negatives
Date: 27 Jan 93 14:12:03 GMT
Reply-To: mcfarland.henr801c@xerox.com
Distribution: rec
Organization: Xerox Corporation


In article <1993Jan27.030018.1706@src.honeywell.com>, smangan@src.honeywell.com (Stefanos Manganaris) writes:
|> 
|> Anyone with suggestions on how to neatly organize and store negative
|> strips?  I really hate these sleeves one gets at the Photo Labs.  Are
|> there any products out there made specifically for archiving negatives?
|> 
|> Thanks for any info,
|> 
|> Stef.

Most photo shops carry a polyethylene sheet protector that is drilled for
3 ring binders. The most popular brand (with stores it seems)
is "Print File". They're convient and for the most part will do the
job you need.

Now, if you're more serious about archival storage, there are a range
of products available; such as mylar negative sleeves, in acid free
archival envelopes in acid free archival storage boxes, on and on ...
If this is case, I suggest you contact Light Impressions for their catalog
of materials (1-800-828-9859).

	doug

-- 
                       
                McFarland.henr801c@Xerox.com
From: rwyble@schunix.uucp (Richard J. Wyble)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Funky Leica Winder?
Date: 21 Jan 93 13:18:02 GMT
Organization: SCHUNIX Public Access Unix for Worcester County, MA, USA
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4

bbarton@Ingres.COM (Brian Barton) writes:
: Has anybody heard of this funky Leica Rangefinder winder made by a third
: party manufacturer for Leica Rangefinder cameras?

Is this a new product? Leica made such a thing in years past.
-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
 rwyble@schunix.uucp                         Richard J. Wyble
 schunix!rwyble@transfer.stratus.com         Worcester, Massachusetts
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: What's the difference between Canonet G-III QL17, and the QL17?
From: fred-mckenzie@ksc.nasa.gov (Fred McKenzie)
Date: 26 Jan 93 16:15:01 EST
Followup-To: rec.photo
Distribution: world
Organization: NASA/Kennedy Space Center, Florida

In article <1jsbc8INNmis@shelley.u.washington.edu>,
hsieh1@carson.u.washington.edu (Darrell Kirk) wrote:
> I have a Canonet QL17 G-III, and another Canonet that is not a G-III model.
> What is the difference between the two?  

Darrell-

I once had the older non G-III QL17, but have never had my hands on the
G-III model.  If you can't tell any difference between the two, then the
differences must be internal.  If not, they might be only imaginary
advertising features!

Does the G-III have the same lens nomenclature as the older model?  A
different name, like Canon verses Canonette, is one area that might not
change the basic specifications.

There might have also been a change in the type of photocell.  Earlier
battery operated cadmium sulphide photocells, recovered slowly when exposed
to bright light.  The G-III might have had a newer cell, such as the
"silicon blue", with faster response.  How do these two compare, both in
response time and in accuracy?

fred-mckenzie@ksc.nasa.gov
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: PXY@ECLX.PSU.EDU (Pen-Li Yen)
Subject: Message for Atty Mullins
Organization: Penn State Engineering Computer Lab
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 93 06:05:58 GMT
X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.24

Dear Mr.Mullins,

I am sorry I lost your e-mail address, so I have to contact you this way.

The person who want to buy my Leica 135mm Elmarit 2.8 just back off.
It's your chance to get this lens for $400+shipping.

Please contact me if you see this message.

Yuesea
From: jimc@tau-ceti.isc-br.com (Jim Cathey)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: How Autofocus works?
Date: 21 Jan 93 22:21:17 GMT
Organization: Olivetti North America, Spokane, WA

In article <1993Jan21.153328.12289@sco.com> craig@sco.COM (Craig R.P. Heath) writes:
>The thing that really impresses the stuffing out of me is my Minolta
>5000, which, in manual focus, tells me which way I need to turn the focus
>ring!  Now, it can't do that by measuring the differential of two positions
>on the focus ring, because it has no control of that, so how the hell does
>it do it?  I'd assumed it was something to do with phase differences
>between light from the same point being measured at two points within
>its circle of confusion, and this somehow indicating whether the
>actual focus point is behind or in front of the film plane, but that's
>just handwaving.  Anyone actually _know_?

The concept isn't that tricky.  Passive AF systems work just like your
old split-image focusing aid did in MF cameras of old.  A single-line
light sensor on each side of the split records the pattern of light and
dark along the split, both above and below.  The computer
pattern-matches these to figure out which way the pattern's are shifted
relative to each other.  It then drives the AF motor in the compensating
direction until the patterns line up.  <Click>. 

When it can't recognize any pattern it assumes things are wildly out
of focus and it starts thrashing around and guessing.  If it never finds
a pattern it gives up after a short while.

The tricky part is making it fast, sensitive, and accurate.

-- 
+----------------+
! II      CCCCCC !  Jim Cathey
! II  SSSSCC     !  ISC-Bunker Ramo
! II      CC     !  TAF-C8;  Spokane, WA  99220
! IISSSS  CC     !  UUCP: uunet!isc-br!jimc (jimc@isc-br.isc-br.com)
! II      CCCCCC !  (509) 927-5757
+----------------+
			One Design to rule them all; one Design to find them.
			One Design to bring them all and in the darkness bind
			them.  In the land of Mediocrity where the PC's lie.
From: pvk00@RUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Prasad Kongara)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Slide film and Flash photography
Date: 21 Jan 93 02:16:33 GMT


Hi Nettors:

Recently I had a party at my home. I shot several
rolls of film with my Nikon 8008s and SB-24 combo.
I shot mostly print film (Kodak Gold) and one roll
of slide film (Kodachrome 200).

After I got the films developed, I was quite pleased
with the results of the print film and I was quite
disappointed with the results of the slide film. All
slides came out too dark. When I project them, I see
faces that are too dark with eyes too glittery.

I shot these slides during night, inside my house,
using a flash. I used all automatic modes for the
camera as well as the flash for this shooting (Dual
program, Matrix metering for the camera and TTL Auto
for the flash).

I am thinking about why the slides came out bad along
these lines:

1. Even though prints came out well, my camera meter
may need calibration. The printing process may be
masking the problem in the camera meter. But I doubt
if this is the reason because the slides I took in
day light with this camera in auto mode came out
perfectly exposed.

2. I may have to use some kind of camera/flash compensation
when I use slide film with flash.

3. The slide film is not developed right. But this
is the second time that I got bad slides with flash.
It will be too much of a coincidence if this is true.

4. Kodachrome may not be the right type of slide film
for flash photography. I may have to use different type
of slide film.

5. Slide film is not too great for flash photography.
Just be happy with prints when using flash.

Could somebody please enlighten me ?

- Prasad


Disclaimer: All opinions expressed are mine. My company
has nothing to do with them.
From: photo@cs.ubc.ca (Photo-swap central)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Photoswap 93-1 Theme announcement
Date: 21 Jan 1993 14:24:16 -0800
Organization: Computer Science, University of B.C., Vancouver, B.C., Canada
NNTP-Posting-Host: lucille.cs.ubc.ca
Keywords: potoswap, theme, Feb. 30/93, mail

photo@cs.ubc.ca (Photo-swap central) writes:


			    addendum:
			
			Theme Portfolio #93-1
                            (Winter Scenes)

	NOTE: for people submitting photographs, ONLY SEND DUPLICATES.
	(this recommendation is especially true if you send a slide).
	I currently have no plans to ensure that pictures are returned
	to the submitter, and it can be assumed, at any rate, that 
	images may be well-worn by the time they reach the end of the
	mailing list.
	(if anybody out there would like to return photos after they
	have reached the end of the list, please let me know)

To summarize the rules:

*	Theme #93-1 is "Winter scenes".

*	Photos should reach me by Feb. 28.

*	Maximum size for submissions is 8X12. (if you mount photos, then
		this maximum would include the mounting paper)

*	Slides are allowed.

*	Send duplicates (especially important with slides).

*	This is important:  Mark your photos (on the back is fine, make
	sure you use indelible ink) as follows:
	"(C)Copyright 1993 by <Your name here>.  All rights reserved."
 ***	Photos need this copyright notice to be circulated.

*	Also make a not of whether or not you would like your images
	digitized and made available on the net.

*	EMail me when you have the photo in the mail.
			email=	<photo@cs.ubc.ca>

	My physical Mail address is:

	Stephen Samuel
	243 W 16th ave.
	Vancouver, B.C., Canada
	V5Y 1Y8			     <-- Canadien postal code.
        Ph: (604)876-0426
-- 
Stephen Samuel          (604)822-9248           photo@cs.ubc.ca
                                        or,  alberta!ubc-cs!photo
Photo swap co-ordinator (with much support from Brian M. Godfrey)
The first prerequisite to enjoyment is playing the game.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: dnewcomb@whale.st.usm.edu (Donald R. Newcomb)
Subject: T-MAX 100 Direct Positive Chemistry
Originator: dnewcomb@whale.st.usm.edu
Organization: University of Southern Mississippi
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 04:02:53 GMT

Many years ago I used Kodak Direct Positive chemistry to make B&W
slides from Direct Positive Film or Plus-X Pan. I have recently
tried the T-MAX 100 Direct Positive chemistry and have run into
two problems:
1. It seems that the slides are comming out too dark.
2. There is often a yellow/brown cast to the processed film.
Has anyone else experienced problems like these?
-- 
Donald R. Newcomb              * University of Southern Mississippi
dnewcomb@whale.st.usm.edu      * (Gulf Park), Computer Science
newcomb@usmcp6.bitnet          * Do not bend, fold, staple or mutilate.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: shansen@adobe.com (Steve Hansen)
Subject: Ftp sites wanted
Summary: Looking from photo libraries at ftp sites
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 04:49:18 GMT

Pardon me if this is an FAQ, but can anyone recmend ftp sites which
offer collections of photo image bitmaps?

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au
Subject: Enlarger lens. Opinions on quality
Organization: Curtin University of Technology
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 14:58:54 GMT

Curse Barry... I had been thinking I must get a descent enlarger lens RSN,
when he posted... So now RSN is real soon, like now!

Has anyone experiene in comparing Various 40/50 mm enlarger lenses. Specificaly
APO-Rodagon      50 f2.8
Rodagon-WA       40 f4
Rodagon-G        50 f2.8
Componon-WA      40 f4
APO Componon-HM  45 f4.5

Any others that should be in the list, Zeiss for instance?

This is all for 35mm full frame of course.

~Paul
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 13:51:11 EST
From: <QXF1@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Help: Tamron 90-300

Hi, everyone, Could any of you give me some advice on Tamron 90-300 for Maxxum?
It will be for my Maxxum 8000i if I get it. Thanks.

Ching Fong
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: duli@boulder.Colorado.EDU (Li Du)
Subject: Re: Dedicated bounce flash for N6006
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1993 15:35:31 GMT

In article <6532@balrog.ctron> russa@ctron.com (Russell Arrowsmith) writes:
>The SB-24 & SB-25 seem over the top since you can't even use many of
>their features with the N6006. 
>
	What features you would lose if you use SB-24/25 on a N6006?
	I don't know where does people get the idea that N6006+SB-24/25
	is less capable than N6006+something else. It seems to me that 
	you really don't lose anything functionally, except for some 
	automation(such as auto zoom, ASA and f-stop communication, etc)
	which can be set manually. 

>I want to
>be able to use all the flash capabilities of the N6006 (rear-curtain
>sync, slow-sync, automatic balanced fill-flash, AF illumination for
>low-light focusing etc.).

	You can do all these with N6006+SB-24/25 combo.


---------------------------------
 Li Du | duli@prony.colorado.edu
---------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: exjtmm@tts.lth.se (Thommy M. Malmstr|m)
Subject: Ilford DELTA 100: Info wanted
Organization: Communication Systems, Lund Institute of Technology, Sweden
Date: 25 Jan 93 11:57:42


Hi all,

A couple of weeks (3) ago i saw some advertising of a new Ilford B/W
film, namely the Delta 100. Since then i've asked for it in every local
photoshop but they all says that it's delayed from the manufacturer.
Are there anyone out there who has actually seen it yet? If so, is it
as nice as the Delta 400? How is the grain compared to T-Max 100? What
is the characterization (long or short toe, long or short shoulder)?

/Thommy M.

PS. Ilford is setting up a contest for the best picture on the theme
'winter' where you are supposed to use Ilford film (Delta) and print
material. Do they do this in any more countries than Sweden?

--
Thommy M. MALMSTR\M    |  o ,__Q  |  Lund Institute of Technology
K{mn{rsv{gen 3 A:202   |  \-\_<,  |  Dept. of Communication Systems
S-226 46 LUND, SWEDEN  | (*)/'(*) |  Box 118, S-221 00 LUND, SWEDEN
+46-(0)46 13 21 78     |~~~~~~~~~~|  Tfn:+46-46 10 90 08, Fax:+46-46 14 58 23
Newsgroups: rec.photo