HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: hibanez@wam.umd.edu (XXXman)
Subject: Ball Python for sale
Originator: hibanez@rac1.wam.umd.edu
Organization: University of Maryland at College Park
Distribution: dc
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 23:45:41 GMT

Hello....

I have ball python I want to sell.  He's about 4ft.  $50 bucks
takes him home.      Call me at (301)935-5243 at home or
(301)571-3708 at work.		


Thanks.
Larry


-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------
lars		       hibanez@wam.umd.edu
UofMD at CP	       standard disclaimer
From: bzandrew@bbs1984.chi.il.us (Bill Zandrew)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Psycho Ig
Date: 26 Jul 92 07:16:36 GMT
Organization: Not an Organization

In article <36076@sdcc12.ucsd.edu>, mjahnke@sdcc13.ucsd.edu (******** Meg
*******) writes:
>How do you get an iguana who wants nothing to do with you to actually not mind
>being picked up? I've had other ig's and they all calmed down in a week or two
>after I got them, but not Perry! He bites and claws when you try to pick him
>up, and I've had him for 2 months now... anyone have any suggestions?
>
>-Meg
>mjahnke@ucsd.edu
My girl friend is very gentle and pays oodles of attention to my Iguana.  It
usually will act mildly toward her, but constantly tries to bite her even
though she feeds it 90% of the time.  I, on the other hand, play with him and
"roughhouse" with him.  I just reach in and pick him up.  He is much more
agressive when he's with me, but has NEVER tried to bite me.
From: ruska@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Dave Ruska)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: HELP: Cage size for grown columbian boa ? (7 feet)
Date: 28 Jul 92 17:00:57 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA

In rec.pets.herp, vmh@vmh.Eng.Sun.COM (Valerie Haecky) writes:

> What cage SIZE would *you* recommend for a 7-8 foot, not very active,
> female columbian boa constrictor ? 

  My 8 footer fits nicely in a 2.5' X 4' cage. Mine is 2.5' feet high 
  but would need to be higher to incorporate a climing branch.
  
> There needs to be room for a water bowl, a hiding box, and a large
> branch or a shelf (upstairs).

  You probably want a water tub (such as a large cat litter box with
  a rock in it) so that the snake can soak instead of just a bowl.
  Perhaps the underside of the shelf can serve as part of the hiding
  place (Mine like to crawl under the newspapers when they feel like
  hiding).

> Also, do you use wooden cages, or plexy glass tanks ? 
> (I have been thinking of either getting a custom built wooden cage,
> or buy a suitable plexyglass aquarium and and build a door/shelf
> into it myself.)

  I would recommend wood for the sides (except the front) since they 
  insulate better then glass/plexiglass and will make it easier to
  maintain the tempurature in the cage if the house temp gets too cool.

> 
> Valerie
> --

Dave R.  (daver@hpgrrd.gr.hp.com)
From: tracer@milton.u.washington.edu (David Tracer)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: HELP: Cage size for grown columbian boa ? (7 feet)
Date: 24 Jul 92 20:09:15 GMT
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle

In article <1992Jul24.151227.2672@news.iastate.edu> pholland@iastate.edu (Paul J Hollander) writes:
>In article <rotheroe.711930792@convex.com> rotheroe@convex.com (Dave Rotheroe) writes:
>>>>What cage SIZE would *you* recommend for a 7-8 foot, not very active,
>>>>female columbian boa constrictor ? 
>    LOTS DELETED
>I built one that was 48x32x24 inches from one sheet of plywood and a 24x48
>inch piece of 1/4 inch pegboard for air exchange in the back.  Put a plexiglas 
>front on.  Quite adequate for a 10-12 ft Burmese.  Biggest problem with 
>home-built cages is the time required for the paint, polyurethane varnish, or
>whatever to cure and lose most of the vapors.  Now is a good time to start
>building so the cage can sit in a garage or shed for a month and dry well (so 
>I and the snake don't have to smell it).

For homemade cage painting/water proofing, I highly reccomend Varathane
Diamond.  It is "environmentally-friendly", almost completely
odorless/fumeless and dries completely in 3 hours (at 70 degrees or
above).  Recoating can be done after 2 hrs.  I put 4 coats on a Burmese
cage I built in a single day, and put my Burmese in 24 hrs later (could
have put him in 3-4 hrs later, but waited 24 just to be safe).
(note: all this applies only to "varathane diamond" which is not the same
as regular "Varathane")
David
From: bzandrew@bbs1984.chi.il.us (Bill Zandrew)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: help on sailfin dragon
Date: 26 Jul 92 06:53:52 GMT
Organization: Not an Organization

In article <1992Jul20.105924.28396@seq.uncwil.edu>, cosper@seq.uncwil.edu (Kit
Cosper) writes:
>srh3@Ra.MsState.Edu (Steven R. Hollis) writes:
>
>>When you say $2.5K do you mean 2500$$$$??????????
>
>       Yes, $2500 is the figure I meant.
>
>>This must not be the lizard I have  heh heh
>>I paid $45 for it les than an iguana
>
>       Or you got an INCREDIBLE bargain!!!!  :-)
>
>>Oh well, any ideas anyone??
>
>       Well, a sailfin would be a bargain at $45, so that adds a bit more
>       mystery to the game.  Perhaps it is a collared lizard?  They
>       sell for around $15-$20 wholesale, which would make $45 retail
>       an expected price, and the name is relatively close.........
>
>
>       Just a thought.
>
>
>Kit
>
>
>-- 
>   Kit Cosper                        cosper@seq.uncwil.edu         
>   PP-ASEL-IA                        AMA 31022
A collared lizard doesn't have any kind of frill, is brilliant colored and a
mean sucker (biter).
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Horny young iguana
From: f00020@TIGGER.STCLOUD.MSUS.EDU
Date: 23 Jul 92 13:22:31 -0600
Reply-To: f00020@TIGGER.STCLOUD.MSUS.EDU
Organization: St. Cloud State University, St. Cloud, MN

In article <1992Jul22.205503.1079@u.washington.edu>, stevep@wrq.com (Steve Poole) writes:
>
>So, what's up?  Is his biological clock off?  Is this normal for a
>prepubescent male iguana?  Is a change in behavior normal for adult
>male iguanas when they mate, and how frequently are they so inclined?
>
Again Jean from  Beneath The Sea Pets is repling, not me!!
She says that your iguana is felling  threatened by the stuffed
iguana.  Iguana's don't reach sexual maturity until age of 5, so
most likely it is not a sexual thing.  Also, she says, that a
iguana can be sexed from birth, if it has a large dulap (that
flap of skin under its chin) it is male.  I asked her what she
ment by large, she replied that it is obvious in males and quite
small and tiny in females.

Any further ??? should be sent to her at 715-425-8303.

Ronda
From: pholland@iastate.edu (Paul J Hollander)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Snake color morphs ?
Date: 22 Jul 92 15:16:15 GMT
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames, IA

In article <1992Jul22.040702.21330@news.eng.convex.com> datri@convex.com 
(Anthony A. Datri) writes:
>>>    Amelanistic (corn snake) ...
>
>>Pink eyes and tongue.
>
>Mine has a pink tongue, but red surrounded by orange eyes.

Correction:  Pink pupils and orange iris in the eyes.
>
>>name for them.  Amelanistic and anerythristic in corns, striped in California
>>kings, and most of the black rat snake mutants are the exceptions.
>
>There are striped mutants of Corns too.

Advanced Vivarium Systems has a pamphlet on the colors and patterns in 
corn snakes.  I haven't gotten around to getting it, though I've glanced at
it.  My first impression is the pictures are excellent but the genetics is 
a bit lacking.  One of these days....

Paul Hollander    pholland@iastate.edu
Behold the tortoise: he makes no progress unless he sticks his neck out.
From: enigma@netcom.com (Enigma)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Psycho Ig
Keywords: help!
Date: 24 Jul 92 16:16:33 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest)

In article <36076@sdcc12.ucsd.edu> mjahnke@sdcc13.ucsd.edu (******** Meg *******) writes:
>How do you get an iguana who wants nothing to do with you to actually not mind
>being picked up? I've had other ig's and they all calmed down in a week or two
>after I got them, but not Perry! He bites and claws when you try to pick him
>up, and I've had him for 2 months now... anyone have any suggestions?
>
>-Meg
>mjahnke@ucsd.edu

You didn't mention how big he is, but if he isn't a hatchling, I
wonder if someone has treated him cruelly.  Anyway, make sure
you support his feet when you pick him up, and if you can manage
it, when he opens his mouth to bite you might try sticking a
piece of his favorite food in his mouth.  Also, I wonder how he
would react if you sat quietly with him in a very small room -
too small to avoid you effectively.  If you try this, bring a
good book.  :-)
-- 
Holly McGrath   <enigma@netcom.com> 
1803 Mission Street, #339          
Santa Cruz, CA 95060              
(408) 479-4072  (voice mail)     
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: Igor Livshits <igorl@uiuc.edu>
Subject: Frozen caveat
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1
Organization: NCSA
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 23:51:23 GMT



If you feed frozen food to your reptile and prefer to thaw it in your
micorwave, please make sure that the rodent has reached equilibrium
temperature before feeding.  Several years ago, a pet shop worker
lamented that he was ina hurry, nuked the rat, and gave it to his boa. 
As a result, the boa scorched his esophagus.  While cool on the outside,
the rat was boiling inside, and once ingested, that heat traveled to the
ouside and injured the snake.

I do not know if the boa lived or died -- he did have to have surgery.

igor
From: lemke@verbosa.ncd.com (David Lemke)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Boa questions
Date: 28 Jul 92 22:58:19 GMT
Organization: Network Computing Devices

I got my first boa ~6 weeks ago, and have some questions that the
books don't satisfactorily answer.

Natasha is a 3 foot B. C. Imperator.  Saturday i Fed her 3 mice, 2 live
(treat) and 1 dead (frozen).  Monday she spat them back up.  The book
(Philippe de Vosjoli's (sp?) _Red-Tailed Boas_) says its usually due
to oversize prey, or possbly temperature.  I've fed her this many mice
several times before with no problems, so I don't think its too much food.
The temperature hasn't been varied much.  What other causes are there?
I had been handling her for several hours at the time, and she'd had
a swim just before that.  Will they act like other creatures and get
motion sickness?  Should i worry (even more)?  She seems pretty happy
today (the next day).  Should i feed her again immediately, or wait till
the normal time?

i'm also curious about feeding regimens.  is there any real reason to
feed one rat instead of the equivalent number of mice?  (other than 
economic.)

is it possible to overhandle a snake?  i hold her at least a couple hours 
each night, longer on weekends.

she also seems to have an aversion to water, which seems unusual. i never
see her in her water bowl, and she doesn't much care for taking baths.
i have seen her drinking, so she gets what she needs, but isn't this a
bit wierd?

i'd appreciate any comments...

-- 
Dave Lemke				lemke@ncd.com
Network Computing Devices, Inc.
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: jim@gordian.com (Jim Van Vorst)
Subject: Re: poor Micrurus fulvius, evil girlfriends, questions, suggestions
Keywords: don't trust those coral snakes [incredibly short article]
Organization: Gordian; Santa Ana Heights, CA
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 18:03:36 GMT

In article <h19f139@Unify.Com>, grp@Unify.com (Greg Pasquariello) writes:
> In article <lddmafd.enigma@netcom.com>, enigma@netcom.com (Enigma) writes:
> > From: enigma@netcom.com (Enigma)
> > Subject: Re: poor Micrurus fulvius, evil girlfriends, questions, suggestions
> > Date: Mon, 20 Jul 92 22:05:53 PDT
> > Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
> > Keywords: don't trust those coral snakes [incredibly short article]
> > 
> > In article <1992Jul20.220444.14434@osf.org> oaf@serverx.osf.org (Oded Feingold) writes:
> > >Stuart M Castergine writes:
> > >	...
> > >>Everyone will be pleased to know that the Coral Snake is fine. As for
> > >>my girlfriend, Pandora ... well, ...
> > >
> > >==============================FLAME ON=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
> > >I'M SORRY, I DON'T BUY THAT!  No matter how fine your animal looks
> > >now, you take it for a booster shot or I'll have the SPCA on you for
> > >reckless endangerment, neglect, and aggravated halitosis!
> > >==============================FLAME OFF-=-=-=-=-=-=-
> > 
> > Great flame, Stuart.  God, I love this newsgroup...
> > 
> > BTW, I was curious: do coral snakes have neurotoxic or hematoxic venom?
> > Just how deadly are they?
> 
> 
> Neurotoxic.  Their venom is quite dangerous but they tend not to bite.
> When they do, they must chew to inject their venom, due to their small 
> fangs.
> 
> > -- 
> > Holly McGrath   <enigma@netcom.com> 
> > 1803 Mission Street, #339          
> > Santa Cruz, CA 95060              
> > (408) 479-4072  (voice mail)     
> 
> -- 
> 
> --
> Greg Pasquariello   	grp@unify.com 	        Sometimes you're the windshield
> Unify Corporation	   or			Sometimes you're the bug.
> (916) 928-6258	    ...!uunet!unify!grp
> 
> 
> 

What did happen to the evil girlfriend anyway?  Stuart came home and found
what?  A bloated corpse?  Someone tell me!!!!

-- 
@-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+@
   jim@gordian.com

   "If builders built buildings the way programmers write code
    then the first woodpecker to come along would destroy
    civilization."
@-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+@
From: ab3n+@andrew.cmu.edu (Alexander Bernard Brands)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Problem with my iguana
Date: 31 Jul 92 15:08:14 GMT
Organization: Junior, Biology, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA

I've had my iguana, Tongo, for a little over a year now, and he's been
doing fine as far as eating, growing, and calming down.  However, when I
got him(her?) one of the scales on top of his head was a little
disfigured and darker than the rest.  It looked like some sort of scar
at the time and I didn't worry much about it.  The only thing I noticed
about the area was that when he shed his skin, that was the last spot to
go.  Recently, the area has become lighter than the surrounding area,
and I've noticed that there is now a distinct center to the area that
sort of looks like a little pimple.  I wanted to see if the area was
sensitive, so I poked his head with a tweezers on many spots that looked
normal, and he gave no reaction.  But when I poked the center of the
disfigured spot, he definitely reacted in a negative way.  The "pimple"
seems to be just as hard as the rest of the top of his head.  Any ideas
on what this might be?  Is it a tumor or a mite of some sort?  His
behavior and the rest of his appearance has not changed in any way.
  Any suggestions will be appreciated,
         -Alex
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: datri@convex.com (Anthony A. Datri)
Subject: Re: should I be worried?
Organization: Engineering, CONVEX Computer Corp., Richardson, Tx., USA
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 04:11:39 GMT
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by a user at CONVEX Computer
              Corp. The opinions expressed are those of the user and
              not necessarily those of CONVEX.


I'll venture that you've got low humidity.  My Black Pine was having problems
like that, but shed successfully when I placed a shallow tray (from Fujitsu
gate arrays, if you care 8^) full of water in the tank right above the
heat, and dropped a folded-up sheet of fairly rough paper toweling into it.

-- 

======================================================================8--<
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: srh3@Ra.MsState.Edu (Steven R. Hollis)
Subject: EMERGENCY---Need a response 10 minutes ago
Organization: Mississippi State University
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 02:25:32 GMT

Hi guys.  I goofed.  Not with my hog-nosed, but with my checkbook.
See I double credited myself with a deposit and now am in a jam.  I was
going to get a tank for the hog-nose tomorrow, but now I cannot
For a couple of days would it hurt to put my hog-nose in the same tank with
my sailfin dragon/=.  They both are about the same size.


Anybody tried this or if they wouldn't co-habitate......which one would win??

Thanks for bailing me out guys


Steve

--
srh3@ra.msstate.edu                              Oh, bother.

Steve Hollis                                      ---Winnie-the-Pooh

Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: mundy@chemvx.tamu.edu (Dr. Stubby)
Subject: I just thought I'd say hi
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: Sex Studies Division, Texas A&M Univ.
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 05:49:00 GMT



most of you don't care that I haven't had much to say around here, but I 
don't care.

I just wanted to put a message up telling all of you regulars hi, and the 
rest of you can skip this, or flame me for using a sexual phrase for a 
name.








					---- The Cunning Linguist

p.s. Mike, Kyle, gb? you guys still out there?

Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: pholland@iastate.edu (Paul J Hollander)
Subject: Re: Green tree pythons + Diamon & Carpet
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames, IA
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 15:43:54 GMT

In article <1992Jul20.161458.14108@athena.cs.uga.edu> tedr@athena.cs.uga.edu 
(Ted Kalivoda) writes:
>Hi folks, is there anyone who has had experience or knows about
>	
>	1) Green tree pythons ($, care, availability)

I've had some green tree pythons (_Chondropython_viridis_).  They are pretty,
but they are also expensive, nasty, and relatively hard to keep.  They also
have *big* teeth that make an interesting crunching sound when they pucture 
your skin.  They need a large cage with branches.  Don't expect to handle them.

IMHO, these are *not* snakes for anyone who has not had a 
considerable amount of experience, particularly with the grey or Cook's tree 
boas, _Corallus_enydris_ ssp.  Some people are breeding Chondros, but the 
babies are expensive and more difficult than the adults, so far.

>
>	2)  Diamond pythons (spilotes)

I've never worked with these.  They are Australian and are very hard to get.
Don't even think about them for another 5-10 years.

>
>	3)  Carpet pythons (spilotes variegata)

Of the three listed species, these are the ones to get.

IMHO, a good corn or boa constrictor is a better pet than the carpet python 
and *far* superior to the green tree python.

Paul Hollander    pholland@iastate.edu
Behold the tortoise: he makes no progress unless he sticks his neck out.

Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: kyle@Csli.Stanford.EDU (Kyle Wohlmut)
Subject: Re: I just thought I'd say hi
Followup-To: rec.pets.herp
Organization: Rocking Pig Enterprises
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 16:00:27 GMT

In article <21JUL199223493022@chemvx.tamu.edu> mundy@chemvx.tamu.edu (Dr. Stubby) writes:

>
>p.s. Mike, Kyle, gb? you guys still out there?
>

Well, I don't have much to say either, but hey, my name was mentioned,
so I decided I'm entitled to post too... :-) Yes, we're still out
there, just biding our time (and bandwidth) scoping out the summertime
net situation...
So as long as I'm here I might as well say something about Fafnir,
nobody's talked about Burmeses for a while.  When we last left our
story, Kyle was trying to come up with a heating system that would
eliminate the need for that big heat lamp shining all the time... from
the suggestions so far, I think the best approach will be to work from
the bottom up, come up with something that will heat from beneath the
cage floor.  As to exactly what that will be, we're still working on
it.
BTW Fafnir's birthday is coming up in a couple of weeks-- anyone who's
been waiting with baited breath for the growth/weight/shed chart on
her, all will be published then... :-)

-/-/-/-/-/
Kyle
'Women: a mistake?  Or did He do it to us on purpose?!' --D. van Horne
/-/-/-/-/-
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: garys@pictel.com (Gary Sullivan)
Subject: Re: Types of Reptiles (was: Re: Longest lizard)
Organization: PictureTel Corporation
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 22:20:13 GMT

In article <1992Jul18.015200.5269@kronos.arc.nasa.gov> hall@kronos.arc.nasa.gov (Michael Hall) writes:
>In article <1992Jul18.003258.28424@news.eng.convex.com> datri@convex.com (Anthony A. Datri) writes:
>>>New Zealand islands.  They're endangered primarily because of the
>>>rat population introduced by ships, and have trouble keeping up with
>>>the rodents reproductively because they don't reach sexual maturity
>>
>>Sounds to me like some islands that need a few more snakes 8^)
>
>I don't think there are *any* snakes there, but maybe you already knew that.

  If I remember correctly, it's too cold there for snakes.  One of the interesting
thing about the tuatara is its adaptation to colder temperatures than normally
tolerated by reptiles.

---------------------------------
Gary Sullivan  (garys@pictel.com)
From: nathan@charles.ucdavis.edu (Nathan Rollins)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: help on sailfin dragon
Date: 21 Jul 92 07:56:15 GMT
Organization: Bohemian Inebriation Association


  The pet shop in town here sells what they call "Hydrosaurs" for $45...

 -otter

Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: bpb9204@tamsun.tamu.edu (Brent)
Subject: Re: Taming a beast  NOT!!!!
Followup-To: rec.pets.herp
Organization: Texas A&M Univ., Inc.
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 16:51:38 GMT

deb90@JUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (David E Ben-Jamin) writes:
|
|  My Cal. king is the "king" of doo-doo.  She has no problem
|with soiling anyone who touches her.  Smells baaaaaadd.		

That's too bad.  At the local stores there is one adult male that will
not hesitate to unload...  This store's owner brings a towel out if you
ask about the kingsnake.  At another store, their female (?) kingsnake
has a great disposition.  I handled her for quite a while when I was
in the store; she was quite happy (and probably liked the warmth).

My CA King has been good.  I've had it since April and NEVER has it
tried to unload on me.  I have also made it a habit to handle it and my
snake gets touched nearly everyday.  He's shy at first, but quickly
calms and coils around your fingers/palm.

just some thoughts,
-Brent
-- 
+-------------------------+  Pale Terror trembling guards the fountain's head,
|Brent P. Burton, N5VMG   |  And rouses Fancy on her wakeful bed;
|bpb9204@tamsun.tamu.edu  |  From realms of viewless spirits tears the veil,
+-------------------------+  And there reveals the unutterable tale. - M. Lewis
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: gerard@progress.COM (Gerard Bras)
Subject: Re: Frozen caveat
Organization: Progress Software Corp.
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 15:25:27 GMT

Igor Livshits <igorl@uiuc.edu> writes:



>If you feed frozen food to your reptile and prefer to thaw it in your
>micorwave, please make sure that the rodent has reached equilibrium
>temperature before feeding.  Several years ago, a pet shop worker
>lamented that he was ina hurry, nuked the rat, and gave it to his boa. 
>As a result, the boa scorched his esophagus.  While cool on the outside,
>the rat was boiling inside, and once ingested, that heat traveled to the
>ouside and injured the snake.

>I do not know if the boa lived or died -- he did have to have surgery.

Mild flame on.

I can't understand this.  Why do people think a microwaver is the only way
to go?  It doesn't heat evenly, tends to scorch small items, and plain doesn't
work as well as a dish of warm water.  What's so wrong with simple methods
that noone wants to use them?

Jeez, why not a blowtorch, that oughta do it.

Mild flame off.

The suggestion about letting the temperature of food items eqaulize is
good advice.

cheers,
gerard
From: mcovingt@athena.cs.uga.edu (Michael A. Covington)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Congratulate me!
Date: 24 Jul 92 21:19:06 GMT
Organization: University of Georgia, Athens

> What other critters...

(Hello, Ted.)

Right now, we have a skink, 2 baby box turtles, several adult box turtles
and two slider turtles (outdoors)...  Several of the turtles are about to
lay eggs, to judge from their behavior.

-- 
==========================================================================
Michael A. Covington, Ph.D. |  mcovingt@uga.cc.uga.edu  |  ham radio N4TMI
Artificial Intelligence Programs | U of Georgia | Athens, GA 30602  U.S.A.
==========================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp