HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: ech@ac.dal.ca
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Need help with off flavours
Date: 25 Jul 92 13:28:49 -0300
Organization: Dalhousie University, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

Hi guys, I need some help identifying and dealing with off flavours.
I'm afraid I can't send out taste samples, so I'll do my best to
explain.  I brewed a batch from a "Chieftain" kit, a 7lb can.  I have
since discovered that beer kits are not regulated the same way as food
products, so the fact that sugar (I don't remember if it was glucose or 
maltose) was listed after hop extract does not mean there was less of it
than hop extract.  Anyway, the end product, two weeks after bottling
tastes more like a lambic than the bavarian pilsner it was supposed to 
be.  I believe diacetyl is one problem, and a bit of that cidery-yeasty
flavour from too high a sugar content.  The closest thing I can compare
this batch to is a Quebec micro beer called Portneuvoise, which may or
may not still be in business.  Actually, my beer is drinkable, which
Portneuvoise was not (actually, their pale ale was OK, if you were in 
the mood).  My questions:  1. any quebec experts know what that 
nasty flavour was in Portneuvoise?  2. does the cidery-yeasty flavour
from too much sugar go away with ageing?

	Ed
From: ftgmdw@vax.oxford.ac.uk
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Use of herbs in brewing ?
Date: 22 Jul 92 16:57:50 GMT
Organization: Oxford University VAXcluster

Can anyone give me some good advice? I wish to brew some honey beer, and to
this end I've got hold of a recipe which recommends the use of honey and hops.
In order to try something a little different, I am considering using a herb (
most probably rosemary ) instead of the hops, to provide a rustic flavour. Does
anyone know what sort of quantities ( e.g. per gallon ) would be suitable to
provide a nice flavour, without ruining the brew ?

Any comments would be most welcome.

Yours,  
       Martin
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: clark@dedsho.enet.dec.com (Dave Clark)
Subject: Homebrew Supply Stores in NH
Organization: Citizens for Interstellar Activity
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 19:23:14 GMT


Howdy folks;

I thought I'd start up a note for homebrew supply stores in NH.  Just to get
the ball rolling:

	Jasper's Homebrewing
	11D Tracy Lane, Hudson NH
	(603) 881-3052

	Hours: Wed & Thu 12 noon to 8 pm
	       Fri 3 pm to 8 pm
	       Sat 9:30 am to 5 pm


	Mitch's Brew Homebrew Supplies
	25 Nightingale Rd., Nashua NH 03062
	(603) 889-6406

	Hours: Mon thru Fri 9 am to 8 pm
	       Sat 9 am to 2 pm
	       Sun by appointment
	       (home run shop - call before stopping by)
	       If you need supplies off hours, call and leave name, number
	       and needs - they will open up if they have what you need.

Dave Clark                                "We're not hitchhiking anymore ...
clark@dedsho.enet.doc.com		   we're RIDING!"
From: redfreak@softcopy.ecn.purdue.edu (Thomas Lobonc)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: liquid yeast
Keywords: yeast
Date: 27 Jul 92 14:43:40 GMT
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network

My friend just bought Wyeast English Ale yeast. It is dated Feb ?
Some questions:
1. Is this stuff too old to work?
2. How many days after it is popped will it be ready? One day for
   every month old?
3. Is it more or less critical to have a yeast starter with liquid yeast
   as opposed to dry yeast?

Thanks in advance for any replies,
Tom
From: bhadley@atlas.nafb.trw.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Stuck fermentation
Date: 21 Jul 92 16:30:19 PST



	If aeration is, in fact, responsible for the alleged stuck
fermentation, why, upon the addition of priming sugar, will the fermentation
take off (2.5% more wort, but it is boiled, so there is little oxegen)?


Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: EAGUADO@sdsu.edu (Ed Aguado)
Subject: Re: Stuck fermentation
Organization: San Diego State University
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 18:53:33 GMT

In article <1992Jul21.174542.20587@cs.cornell.edu> lrj@cs.cornell.edu (Lew Jansen) writes:

>In article <EAGUADO.25@sdsu.edu> EAGUADO@sdsu.edu (Ed Aguado) writes:
>>For some reason this happens to me rather frequently.  What works for me is
>>that I simple swirl the fermentor around for a few seconds.  It seems the
>>mixing action gets the yeast back in contact with the sugars to be broken
>>down.  Fermentation usually resumes within seconds.  Good luck.


>  While your swirling is probably rousing the yeast somewhat, I
>believe it's highly unlikely that you would see such "sudden" results.
>It's much more likely that the "activity" you're seeing is that the
>swirling motion is driving some CO2 out of solution.

>  If you're getting "stuck" fermentations frequently, the most likely
>cause is insufficient aeration of the wort.  I have yet to see less
>than about a 70% attenuation within a week, and lose another couple
>of SG points while the beer is in secondary for the next couple of
>weeks.  My fermentation temperature is between 65 and 70F.

>  Also, Ed, please create a .signature with your email address in it,
>or find some way to change what your posting software lists as your
>email address.  The host "sdsu.edu" doesn't know who you are, and without
>any further information it is impossible to determine an email address
>for you.

>-- 
>    -- Lewis R. Jansen, N2KNV            lrj@helios.tn.cornell.edu
>    LASSP/LNS Systems Manager                (607) 255-6065
>    Station Manager: W2CXM Cornell University Amateur Radio Club
>            "You can't fight in here, this is the War Room!"


Lewis,

How do I assure sufficient aeration?

Ed Aguado
Internet:  EAGUADO@SCIENCES.SDSU.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: psrc@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (Paul S. R. Chisholm)
Subject: Re: Aluminum brewpots
Reply-To: psrc@pegasus.att.com
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 04:54:37 GMT
Summary: acid + aluminum = off tastes (but not Alzheimer's disease)
Keywords: aluminum brewpots Alzheimer's disease

As has been mentioned before, cooking any acidic substance (such as
tomato sauce or wort) will cause a chemical reaction with aluminum, and
off-tastes.

I brew with an aluminum pot that's been used for lots of tomato sauce.
I think it's become "seasoned"; all of the reactions have already
happened on the surface (and to some appropriate depth), and no further
interactions take place.  (Well, they could if someone was to
vigorously apply steel wool to the inside of the pot.  Not very likely
in my household. . . .-)

As for the Alzheimer's connection, let me quote from the December 18,
1989 issue of NEWSWEEK, in an article titled "Medical Mystery Tour"
starting on page 59:

    "People ask me what they can do to protect themselves," says
    Dr. Daniel Perl, a New York neuropathologist who has spent
    years trying to determine whether aluminum exposure contributes
    to the disease.  "I tell them, 'Go for the bargain on aluminum
    pans and call your congressman to demand more money for
    research.'"

Perl is one of the big proponents of the aluminum-causes-Alzheimer's
theory.  However, he states later in the article (sorry, I only copied
the first page) that aluminum can't be digested; it passes "safely"
through the digestive system and out the other end.

If you want to be paranoid about aluminum and Alzheimer's disease,
worry (what would Charlie say?-) about your antiperspirant.  If you
want to be concerned about brain damage, consider the old adage that
each swallow of beer kills five brain cells.  (I don't know where I
heard that, or how fast five cells would die in the absence of
alcohol.)  Otherwise, RDWHAHB.

Paul S. R. Chisholm, AT&T Bell Laboratories/EasyLink Services,
att!pegasus!psrc, psrc@pegasus.att.com, AT&T Mail !psrchisholm
I'm not speaking for the company, I'm just speaking my mind.
From: jdg00@ccc.amdahl.com (Josh Grosse)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: tannins
Date: 23 Jul 92 14:18:48 GMT
Reply-To: jdg00@amail.amdahl.com (Josh Grosse)
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

winkeler@natinst.com (Keith Winkeler) writes:

>It's been noted here and in Papazian that boiling of the grains
>husks will result in some tannins being released which will contribute
>an undesirable flavor. What is this tannin flavor? Can it be described?
>Is it a bitter taste? A cooked taste? A roasted taste?
>
>I ask because in my most recent batch, an Irish Stout Ale, I didn't
>remove the grains in time and they boiled for a few minutes (< 5 min).

Kieth, tannins are present in all beer worts.  The taste component is
bitterness and harshness.  Under normal circumstances, the tannins contribute
color and can actually aid clarity by combining with proteins.  According
to a chemical engineer I met who used to work at Stroh's pilot brewery,
"normal" levels of tannins in beer produce bitter sensations equivalent
to 2 IBUs.

If barley husks are steeped in water above approximately 172 F, excessive
tannins may be extracted.  This may cause phenolic off-flavors (medicinal,
plastic-like, etc.) and may also contribute to a sensation of harshness on
the tongue.

Extract brewers who use specialty grains may not have to worry too much
about this, because the quantity of grain used is low.  Papazian suggests
removing grains as the water starts to boil, because this is a simpler
method than trying to hold a small amount of water and grain at 150 F
for 30 minutes.  If your beer tastes harsh or phenolic, you might try
sticking your "mash" in the oven at 150 F, or using a microwave oven
with a temperature probe.  If your beer doesn't have these off-flavors,
then relax, don't worry....
-- 
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Josh Grosse                                jdg00@amail.amdahl.com
Amdahl Corp.                               313-358-4440
Southfield, Michigan
From: klett@ghill.enet.dec.com (Michael Klett)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Ice Cubes Replace Chiller?
Date: 23 Jul 92 16:14:04 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation


In article <1992Jul22.164756.3109@clipper.ingr.com>, hart@clipper.ingr.com (Frank Hart) writes...

/* stuff deleted */

>wort.  The fifth gallon I set aside as Ice cubes.  After turning off the heat
> and seeping my aroma hops for 30 min., I pitched the ice into the wort.  This 
>cooled the wort enough to put it into the glass carboy.  By adding more ice I
>can bring down the temperature to a point where I can pitch the yeast.
> 
>Is this OK?  Has anybody found other ways to cool the wort without using
>a wort chiller?  Please let me know.  THANKS in advance....

Please don't do this.  I might even start worrying about this batch.  The
freezer is great place for lots of little nasty microbes to hang out and settle
onto ice cubes (at least in most freezers).  It doesn't normally affect us as
they are consumed before having a chance to multiply (but they're gonna love
your beer).  Either freeze sterile water water in closed sterile containers or
put your boil pot into a sink of ice water or buy/build a wort chiller.

Mike
Xref: sparky rec.crafts.brewing:4160 alt.beer:4431
From: copeland@lamar.ColoState.EDU (Jeffrey Copeland)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing,alt.beer
Subject: Re: Beer dispute?
Date: 31 Jul 92 13:57:16 GMT
Organization: Colorado State University, Fort Collins, CO  80523

In article <wsuqoB1w165w@hophead> zen%hophead@canrem.com (Nick Zentena) writes:
>Hi,
>        With the current ongoing beer "war" between Canada
>        and the US I have a couple of questions.
>
>                1) One of the points of contention is the
>                increase in the enviromental tax on canned
>                beer. Do any US states or cities have
>                similar laws intended to lessen the use of
>                cans?

Several states have deposits on both cans and bottles, these are the
non-reuseable kind,  there is also a deposit on the reuseable long
necks even in states with no dposit on the other bottles

>                2) Is most US beer sold in the US sold in
>                cans or bottles?

I'ld say most beer is sold in cans, then again a lot of can recycling
is going on

>                3) How is this "war" playing with the
>                american public? Is it receiving the same
>                level of media attention has north of the
>                border?
I'ld say 99.9% of the US public has no idea, I only heard one very
short (15sec) bit on National Public Radio, havent seen anything in
the papers or on TV

>                4) Since a second problem is that the
>                Ontario government will not allow price
>                competion without some sort of a floor price
>                is there unfettered price competion in all
>                US states?
Dont know

Jeff Copeland   copeland@calypso.atmos.colostate.edu
Atmospheric Science 
Colorado State University
Ft Collins CO 80523
From: binkley@boulder.Colorado.EDU (Jon Binkley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: lagering at warm temps
Date: 21 Jul 92 20:24:14 GMT
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder

bhadley@atlas.nafb.trw.com writes:

> Can someone please give some help with lager questions. Can you make a good
> lager at warmer temps, say 60-65 deg F? Will all lagers at high temps come
> out like a steam beer or can one get a fine pilsner or maerzen beer? I seem to
> remember that most commercial brewers lager at warmer temps to speed things
> up. Is this true.

A warm step just prior to secondary fermentation, called the "diacetyl
rest," is sometimes used to speed things up, but it's a relatively
short step; one would normally ferment cold for several weeks, then
shift to 55 deg. or so for a few days just before transfer to secondary.
Secondary is again done cold.

> Are there lager yeast strains that do better at warm temps.
> In lieu of a fridge what can one do to better a lager beer? Would it help to
> put the beer in the fridge after bottling to let it condition at cool temps?
> I'd like to do a nice pilsner or maerzen as a refresing beer in this hot
> weather, but dont know if its possible. Any and all suggestions welcome.

I'd bet most lager yeasts would end up giving you steam beer at 
warmer temps.

My suggestion is to use an ale yeast, specifically Wyeast's German
Ale yeast, #1007.  This yeast ferments very quickly and is very
attenuative; it gives you a very dry product.  A friend of mine
brewed a pseudo-pilsner with this which tasted very clean; almost
as good as a real pilsner.  Hop and malt it the same as you would
a pilsner, but drink it about 2 months sooner!

Jon Binkley
From: adw@cci632.cci.com (Allen Williams (co-op))
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Fast fermentation
Date: 28 Jul 92 13:33:05 GMT
Organization: Computer Consoles Incorporated


 Last Saturday I tried out the "Sun Has Gone Down On Us Steam Beer" recipe
from "The New Home Brewer's Guide". As my local homebrewer didn't have 
Alexander's Light ME, I substituted Cooper's Light. Here's a summary of
my recipe:

 2 cans (7.5 lbs) Cooper's Light
 1/2 lb Crystal malt
 1.5 oz Northern brewer's hops (boiling)
 0.5 oz Cascade hops (aroma)
 24 grams (2 pkgs) Whitbread Lager yeast 
 Yeast nutrient

 The initial SG was 1.041
 
 As I followed SOP with the wort, pitched it, and put the fermenter aside,
I settled down on the sofa with a book and a glass of Guiness Extra Stout.
Four hours later, I heard this noise that sounded like a miniture Creature
Of the Black Lagoon was mucking around the kitchen.

 Much to my surprise, the krausean had blown past the fermentation lock, and
there was this horrible, icky mess all over the kitchen floor. I removed the
lock, and put in a blow tube. After the foam activity died down, I put the
fermentation lock back in. 

 In the next day (Sunday), the fermentation lock was bubbling actively, like
nothing I've seen before. Not just a few bubbles at a time, but a continuous
frothing action as if the water was boiling.

 On Monday, the fermentation lock only gave a morose "bloop" every five minutes
or so, so I racked it to a secondary carboy and put it aside. The SG was
1.012

 Although I know I shouldn't worry, I've never seen anything like it before.
It's the first time I've used Whitbread yeast, but all other yeasts I've used
usually took about four or five days to ferment out. 

 - Is this behavior normal, or is my beer possesed?
 
 - Will it taste good given the fast acting yeast?

 -  I plan to keep it in the secondary fermenter for about three weeks before
    bottling. Is this a good idea?

 -  Should I strain my beer when racking? I have a stopper on my wand when I
    siphon the wort that filters only big chunks of debris, but not the little
    particles.

 -  Has anyone used "Dogbiter" ME? I saw it on display at my local homebrew
    supply place, and it looks interesting. Apparently, it has a higher SG
    so as to brew beer with a higher alcohol content. 


  Well, that's a lot of questions, so I'll stop now. Thanks all for being
so wise and sagely and putting up with novices like me! Any help would be
deeply appreciated.

                                                          Derrick
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: tinsethg@ucs.orst.edu (Glenn Tinseth)
Subject: Re: Chili Beer/NW Brewers Fest
Organization: University Computing Services - OSU
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 20:41:56 GMT

> phx.mcd.mot.com!fse@phx.mcd.mot.com () writes:
>>milewski@oregon.uoregon.edu (Steve Milewski) writes:
>>This past Saturday we went up to Portland for the NW Brewers Festival once
>>again. Our 4th annual excursion and never disappointed!
>>
>>Really enjoyed Electric Dave's Brew and once again the Green Chili Beer
>>was delicious. Does anyone know the recipe for this beer? Sure would love
>>to try a batch.
>
>Just to point out...  the "Green Chili Beer" is made by Black Mountain
>brewery here in Phoenix, and Electric Dave's is out of Bisbee (also in AZ).
>(just in case it sounded like these were from the same brewery)

Actually, as one who was there and sampled the stuff, the Green Chile Beer was
a product of the Coopersmith Brewery (Colorado I think). It had the most
amazing Anaheim/New Mexico(green) flavor and aroma with a 'sneak-up-on-you'
warm finish. The heat comes from Serrano chiles. They offered tomato juice to
mix with the beer to make a liquid enchilada. The base beer seemed to be a
fairly generic (No not Jack's) lightly hopped golden ale. Yum.

Cheers,

Glenn 'trying to figure out how to dry-pepper' Tinseth
-- 
 Glenn Tinseth                                 Chemistry Department
 tinsethg@ucs.orst.edu                      Oregon State University
     Brewing all the beer I drink, drinking all the beer I brew.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: lrj@cs.cornell.edu (Lew Jansen)
Subject: Re: Stuck fermentation
Organization: Lab of Atomic and Solid State Physics, Cornell University
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 17:45:42 GMT

In article <EAGUADO.25@sdsu.edu> EAGUADO@sdsu.edu (Ed Aguado) writes:
>For some reason this happens to me rather frequently.  What works for me is
>that I simple swirl the fermentor around for a few seconds.  It seems the
>mixing action gets the yeast back in contact with the sugars to be broken
>down.  Fermentation usually resumes within seconds.  Good luck.


  While your swirling is probably rousing the yeast somewhat, I
believe it's highly unlikely that you would see such "sudden" results.
It's much more likely that the "activity" you're seeing is that the
swirling motion is driving some CO2 out of solution.

  If you're getting "stuck" fermentations frequently, the most likely
cause is insufficient aeration of the wort.  I have yet to see less
than about a 70% attenuation within a week, and lose another couple
of SG points while the beer is in secondary for the next couple of
weeks.  My fermentation temperature is between 65 and 70F.

  Also, Ed, please create a .signature with your email address in it,
or find some way to change what your posting software lists as your
email address.  The host "sdsu.edu" doesn't know who you are, and without
any further information it is impossible to determine an email address
for you.

-- 
    -- Lewis R. Jansen, N2KNV            lrj@helios.tn.cornell.edu
    LASSP/LNS Systems Manager                (607) 255-6065
    Station Manager: W2CXM Cornell University Amateur Radio Club
            "You can't fight in here, this is the War Room!"
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: lgold@callahans.Cadence.COM (Lynn Gold)
Subject: Re: Gordon Biersch, Palo Alto
Followup-To: rec.crafts.brewing
Organization: /mnt4/lgold/.organization
	<1992Jul21.231129.7595@news.arc.nasa.gov>
Distribution: ba
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1992 09:11:49 GMT

In article <1992Jul21.231129.7595@news.arc.nasa.gov> watson@pioneer.arc.nasa.gov (John S. Watson - FSC) writes:
>So, if any of my fellow homebrewers succeeds  borrowing and brewing with
>some GB yeast, be sure and tell us how it goes.

The yeast is a lager, I've used it, and my beer came out great!

--Lynn
--
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?<&QY97(@=V5R92!T;R!H97)E(&%B;W5T('1H:7,A"F%P
`
From: bhadley@atlas.nafb.trw.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: lagering at warm temps
Date: 21 Jul 92 10:44:37 PST

 Can someone please give some help with lager questions. Can you make a good
 lager at warmer temps, say 60-65 deg F? Will all lagers at high temps come
 out like a steam beer or can one get a fine pilsner or maerzen beer? I seem to
 remember that most commercial brewers lager at warmer temps to speed things
 up. Is this true. Are there lager yeast strains that do better at warm temps.
 In lieu of a fridge what can one do to better a lager beer? Would it help to
 put the beer in the fridge after bottling to let it condition at cool temps?
  I'd like to do a nice pilsner or maerzen as a refresing beer in this hot
 weather, but dont know if its possible. Any and all suggestions welcome.

                          B. Hadley

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: shsmith@mace.cc.purdue.edu (Stuart Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Home Brewing Supplies in Chicago
Date: 23 Jul 92 18:10:12 GMT
Distribution: usa

Hi,
   I will be visiting freinds in Chicago this weekend (7/25 - 7/26) and 
I'm interested in checking out some Home brewing supply stores in the area.
Anyone have any information, suggestions, or comments on which places I
might want to investigate?  
   Please respond via e-mail to shsmith@mace.cc.purdue.edu.

   Thanks in advance,

Stuart
-----------------------------
Stuart Smith
shsmith@mace.cc.purdue.edu
From: flowers@csrd.uiuc.edu (Craig Flowers)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Quick Lagering
Date: 23 Jul 92 22:18:03 GMT
Article-I.D.: csrd.1992Jul23.221803.28775
Organization: UIUC Center for Supercomputing Research and Development

>Does anyone know of a quick way to improve the lagers via a 1 or 2 week
>lagering? 


Lagering means aging.  I don't know how to quicken time.  Get one of those 
1.6 gigawatt powered DeLoreans.

-Craig Flowers
 (flowers@csrd.uiuc.edu)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: mrsmart@cs1.bradley.edu (Robert Knautz)
Subject: flat beer
Organization: Bradley University
Date: 29 Jul 92 14:16:11 GMT

I just tested my first batch of homebrew last night and it was pretty
flat.  I bottled it 9 days ago.  Do I have to wait longer?  It is an
amber ale made from 6# of hopped malt extract and primed with 1 1/4 C
of dry malt extract(the supply store was out of corn sugar).

Any suggestions besides wait longer?
--
     Rob Knautz    Accounting God    Bradley University, Peoria, Ill.
	mrsmart@cs1.bradley.edu     rknautz@heartland.bradley.edu
            -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --
               Politically Incorrect, and Damn Proud of it!