From: ut-emx!shawn@emx.cc.utexas.edu (Shawn Boyd)
Newsgroups: rec.hunting
Subject: Re: A deal on Archery tackle?
Date: 21 Aug 92 13:45:11 GMT
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin; Austin, Texas
Originator: hunting@osnome.che.wisc.edu


In article <1992Aug19.071801.23819@doug.cae.wisc.edu> X005CB@tamvm1.tamu.edu 
(Chris Barnes) writes:
>In article <1992Aug18.080217.23808@doug.cae.wisc.edu>
>     ut-emx!shawn@emx.cc.utexas.edu (Shawn Boyd) writes:
> 
>>>For $99.99, you get a Bear  65 lb "Grizzly" wheel bow with laminated wood
>>>limbs and 60% let-off.
>>
>> You need to consider spending more.  Ferals and Russian wild boar aren't
>> always dangerous, but they certainly can be.  You may want to hunt a season
>> or two on less cantankerous animals before you pig hunt.
> 
> 
>I disagree with the first suggestion.  The price of the setup is
>really not very important.  The question you need to answer is "How
>does it feel to *you* ? ".  Shoot it for a while.  If it seems to be a
>bow that you could get comfortable shooting, then get it.  I don't see
>a whole lot of sense in spending twice the money for a bow that gives
>only marginally better performance.  And keep in mind, this is your
>FIRST bow.  If you want to move up later, you can.  

 Hmmm.  Point well taken.  I see what you mean.  I still think that a hundred
 bucks for a fully rigged bow sounds pretty low.  I went cheap on my first bow
 about six years ago, and regretted it.  The upper limb split at the fork and 
 let the axle and wheel assemble loose at full draw.  I was lucky.  Only one 
 bad cut on my bow arm hand and a small nick above my right eye where the 
 wheel hit me.  Another half inch and I'd be shooting with my left eye... 
 because I wouldn't have a right eye.  I am tremendously biased against cut-
 ting corners on archery tackle of any sort.

 Don't buy a cheap bow, unless you really know what you're doing.  As I said, 
 your point is well taken, but I stick by my original statement.  One hundred
 dollars is too low.  Safety first.  I do respect your point of view, so I 
 won't debate the matter further other than to say that I've been the cheaper 
 route, and just flat don't think that's the way to go.  Nuff said.

>bowhunting isn't for you (or you don't have time, or .....), then you
>haven't sunk a whole lot of money into it (causing no small amount of
>grief with your wife!).

 I hearya on that one.  Scenario follows...

 Me: Sweetheart, I've gotta break our date this weekend.
 Her: Why [unspoken, but thought -- you turd!]
 Me: I have a chance to go hunt javelinas.
 Her: (agitated, annoyed) Shawn, I honestly don't know why you want to go
      down there and irritate those things!  Don't they bite?  [NOT! --sb]

> 
> 
>>>You get a "no-rattle" 7 arrow quiver (mounts on bow), a 4 pin sight with
>>>guard, arrow rest, cable guard (for fletching clearance), whiskers for
>>>string & cable quietness, and an installed nock-point.
>>
>> I also use an on-the-bow quiver.  This is a bad habit according to many
>> bowhunters -- including Chuck Adams.  As you remove arrows from the quiver
>> the balance of the bow changes and this effects your groups.  I just about
>> have to use one where I like to hunt -- the cover's too thick for a hip
>> quiver.
> 
>Actually, I prefer a hip quiver when the cover is thicker.  Arrows are
>constantly being knocked off the quiver when they're on the bow.....
> 

 Cool.  I agree with the notion that bow mounted quivers are not necessary, 
 and they cause inconsistent shots in practice as you strip arrows from the
 quiver and change the balance of the bow.

 Of course, this doesn't happen when you hunt... I mean how many times do 
 you have to shoot more than once before you recover the arrow and refill
 your quiver?  Not too often.  Of course, down at Callaghans last year, a 
 buddy of mine arrowed a boar javelina.  The javelina got real angry about it, 
 and he had to shoot the critter three more times before I got over to where 
 he was.  Normally, javelinas are pretty shy, and won't really threaten you
 unless they're in a mob (and not even then, really).  Their threat displays 
 are all bark, no bite (and yes, they WILL bark from time to time).  This one 
 was different though.  He was pissed. I heard his jaws popping over a hundred 
 yards away.  It sounded like slapping a two by four on a concrete patio.  Very
 interesting.  

 So there's one exception.  Like I say, hip quivers seem like a real good 
 idea.  I'm just not used to them.  Bow quivers are a real bad habit, I know, 
 but... personally I do better with a bow quiver when I'm stooping, bending 
 and even crawling through all that brush down in South Texas once I'm off the 
 sendero.
 
 I'm about to order one of the Chuck Adams hip quivers, but I'm in no rush,
 and am open to suggestions.  Any advice?  It looks like Neet makes a pretty
 good little quiver too.

>> Shot placement is essential.  Always shoot for the heart.  Just behind either
>> front leg, just a touch below mid-body.  Anyplace else, and it'll be like
>> shooting rocks.  Use the sharpest heaviest broadhead your bow will handle.
> 
>Good advice.
> 
> 
>>>Anyone have any advice for me? Is this a good set-up for a beginner, and
>>>are the prices good?

 The price is excellent.  Is the bow any good.  Really?

>>
>> I'm not sure I'd shoot a pig with it.  Oh... hell yes I would.  But I'd be
>> sure to check around for the nearest tree before I released on 'im.
> 
>65 lbs is plenty to shoot a pig with.  

 That's not the point.  Of course 65 pounds is enough.  The question is whether
 or not the bow will put the arrow into the target, and whether or not it is a 
 quality weapon worthy of the investment of time and money that you'll be put-
 ting into it... buuuuuttt we done been over dat one.

>I don't think I could pull a bow with more tension on it.  

 I'm sure you could, although I'm about to step my bow down to around 75 pounds
 or so.  I'm a little more comfortable at that weight.  Comfort and stability 
 at full draw are the most important factors here.  At the risk of being too 
 general, I think it's safe to say that anything over forty pounds (peak draw)
 is sufficient enough to hunt witH.  Anything less and you're not legal in 
 Texas.

>I usually hunt a baited area from a tree stand, so I don't have to worry 
>about climbing a tree after the shot.

 Nope.  You dun did that before the shot.  Good job.

>You may be more adventurous.....

 I dunno, maybe.  I think all hunters have a pretty good spirit of adventure
 just built right in.

 Good lines and flat shots to all, 

 Shawn Boyd 

 Oh yeah, by the way... I'm gonna hafta to bite the bullet and buy a new lead
 bow this year.  I have a hairline crack in one of the limbs on my Golden Eagle
 and am going to have to replace the limb.  While I'm at it, I'm going to step 
 uptown and go with an Oneida.  Their Aero-Force looks real good to me.  The 
 ole Strike Eagle is still around and both bows are the same price, but the 
 guy I talked to at Cabela's said the Aero-Force is the one he shoots, and he 
 thinks the K-cams on it are more efficient.  He knew his stuff.  He really did,
 but does anyone out there have any other information.

 A brother-of-a-friend owns one of these contraptions.  I've shot his before.
 Truly awsome.  However, I keep hearing that they're a bitch to tune.  What's
 the story gang?  Anybody have some comments?

 SB