HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jreiser@scott.skidmore.edu (Jason Reiser... Asleep)
Subject: Re: Sony Changer Compatibility
Organization: Skidmore College, Saratoga Springs NY
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1992 10:33:04 GMT

trw@spl1.spl.loral.com (Tim R Witort) writes:
> In article <CMM.0.90.4.722179090.clane@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>, clane@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (bored-out-of-my-skull) writes:
> |> 
> |> 
> |> So Sony isnt making the changers that will work with the XR series anymore?
> |> 
> |> I was just going to ask that,  [expletive]!  I suppose when I graduate and get a
> |> real car i will have to buy another stereo...........
> 
>    Good point.  Are the new "U" serires Sony CD changers 
> compatible with their controllers that control the older
> "X" series?  I wouldn't expect all of the nifty new features
> of the "U" series to work, but would the standard old 
> features work?  I have the Sony car DAT deck which can
> control an "X" series CD changer - but will it control the
> new "U" series?
> 
> -- Tim

Nope, an XR series controller will not control a U series changer.
The cabling is completely different, and is not compatible in the
stock form.  Anyone out there consider modifying via cabling the U
series changers to work with an XR series deck?  I don't know if this
can be done off hand... If I get a chance I'll see if I can take one
of the new changers apart for a closer look.
Don't worry too much... the CDX-A55 will probably remain around for a
while considering it's a new model.

				- Jason

-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------
\ Jason A. Reiser  \ Send E-Mail to jreiser@scott.skidmore.edu \
 \ Skidmore College \ Saratoga Springs, NY 12866 \ 518-581-6580 \  
  \ It's a new Ice Age!  Hooray!!  Sled City!  - Calvin & Hobbes \
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: ehawrysh@bnr.ca (Evan Hawrysh)
Subject: Installing a backup battery for an alarm
Reply-To: ehawrysh@bnr.ca
Organization: Bell Northern Research Ltd
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 92 16:21:06 GMT

I've been thinking about installing a backup battery on car alarms,
and I fail to see any problem with simply installing it in parallel with
the main battery (I'd use a small motorcycle battery or something like that,
the current draw by the alarm is quite small).

I figure the use of a dual battery isolator would decrease the battery life
by overcharging (due to the voltage drop over the isolator's diodes), but
that could be overcome by reducing the regulator voltage. Is an isolator
really necessary? 

But why not just a simple parallel connection (w/o isolator)? Sure, there will
be a current drain from one battery to the other if one battery's voltage is
less, but wouldn't this be small (under normal circumstances)? It seems that
this would be the simplest and easiest idea.

Advice on this matter would be appreciated.

Evan
From: kmr4@po.CWRU.edu (Keith M. Ryan)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Do those CD players skip? Are they any good?
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1992 16:38:43 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University
NNTP-Posting-Host: b64746.student.cwru.edu

In article <26130117@hpcc01.corp.hp.com> kirk@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Kirk Lindstrom) writes:
> BTW, several local dealer's have been steering people away
> from the Sony's for reliability problems - so THEY say.
>
> TRAVIS
>----------
>Without unbiased facts like those of Consumer Reports, dealers could be
>steering people away from Sony due to profit margins.

	Yes, their opinions on sound quality are not biased by their own 
ears. That's why they rate some Jensen 6X9 as THE BEST 6x9! They NEVER seem 
to ever listen to the components.
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: yystg@lims02.lerc.nasa.gov (STEVE GRAHAM)
Subject: Re: Capacitors, etc... CALMLY
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
Date: 23 Nov 1992 16:02 EST  

In article <1992Nov20.214616.333@eng.ufl.edu>, brian@hopi.eel.ufl.edu (Brian Gentry) writes...
>True, but stereos reach a point of diminishing returns much faster than a
>land vehicle.  Acceleration increases linearly as the power to weight ratio
>goes up--in a stereo system, the "performance" increase is more like logarithmic
>with the amount of money and time you spend.
> 
>|> Norman Tracy znpt01@trc.amoco.com
> 
>			   Brian L. Gentry
>		      (brian@sioux.eel.ufl.edu)

Actually, Acceleration does not increase linearly.  Just thought I'd 
interject. :-)

The acceleration of the speaker is what makes it so hard to get louder.
What's the equation I'm looking for - E = M * V^2?


S. Graham
From: jcg2@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (JASON GIRARD)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Dual reflex bandpass info. needed!!
Date: 20 Nov 92 05:12:37 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

I was wondering if anyone has info on dual reflex bandpass boxes (I posted
this before--no responses).  I'm making the box for two 12" subs (not sure
what brand yet), and I'll be using a fairly narrow bandpass of 30-80hz.  Does
anyone have any info on this type of enclosure?  Also, I want to block out
freq's below 30 hz so as to lessen the chance of woofer damage.  What can I do
to block these low,low frequencies out?

 _____     _____________________________________________     _____
 |   |     |                                           |     |   |
 |   |     |                                           |     |   |
 |   |port |                                           |port |   |
 |   |     |                                           |     |   |
 |                                                               |
 |_______________________________________________________________|
 |_______________________________________________________________| <-baffle
 |  \                  /                   \                  /  |
 |   \               /                       \              /    |
 |     \ __________/                           \___________/     |
 |     |           |                           |           |     |
 |     |___________|                           |___________|     |
 |                                                               |
 |                                                               |
 |   |     |                                           |     |   |
 |   |     |                                           |     |   |
 |   |port |                                           |port |   |
 |___|     |___________________________________________|     |___|

 Any help will be appreciated...                       PUFF!!
 Thanks,                                               PUFF!!
 Jay
-- 

Jason Girard                           The mind is a terrible thing
jcg2@lehigh.edu                                 to TASTE!
Box 489                                        X   X
Lehigh University                                V
29 Trembley Dr.                               *     *
Bethlehem, PA 18015-3041                       *****
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car,alt.locksmithing,alt.tasteless
From: dmyers@peach.cis.ohio-state.edu (david e myers)
Subject: Re: Car alarms
Organization: The Ohio State University Dept. of Computer and Info. Science
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 23:58:23 GMT

In article <1992Nov16.205029.17443@dazixco.ingr.com> avdh@sunnyboy.dazixco.ingr.com (Alain van der Heide) writes:
>
>BTW Palmetto bugs are a cockroach like bug which inhabit Florida.  They 
>are wonderul.  Well that's not completely accurate.  P-bugs are to cock-
>roaches as Mack Trucks are to Honda Civics.  Wonderfully tasteless, and 
>they make a great "CRRUNCH" when you step on them.  Smell pretty raunchy 
>too.
>

   Although stepping on them usually does little more than annoy them.


>+-----------------------------------------------------------------------------+
>| Alain van der Heide                      |  This is the way the world ends  |
>| avdh@dazixco.ingr.com                    |  This is the way the world ends  |
>| "The opinions expressed above are mine-  |  This is the way the world ends  |
>| mineminemine, and you can't have them."  |  Not with a bang, but with a whi
>
>segmentation fault
>core dumped
>


Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: jsc52962@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Jeffrey S. Curtis)
Subject: Re: How do you change two RCA outputs to four?
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 22:46:04 GMT

In article <17098@umd5.umd.edu> ui68@linus.umd.edu (Bill Kyte) writes:
}   Tha question is clearly stated in the subject line. To those who respond
}I'm sendind out my thanks now.  Thank You.

Funny, I just did that myself.  What I did was hopped down to El Shak
del Radio` (Radio Shack) and picked up two RCA Y adapters (one female
two male) at $2.79 each.  Then I looked in Crutchfield and ordered two
of the same thing, except they're Monster Cable, and gold plated, for
$4 each (but if you order two you get 10% off).  Just pop 'em on the
ends of your current cable and you're set.

Jeff
-- 
Jeffrey S. Curtis sidewinder@uiuc.edu | "Resplendent and full again, they revel
 The Power of 37  free2207 at uiucvmd | in their role as self-appointed critics
   Jensen - Polk - Sansui - Proton    | of the establishment..."
 Sony - StreetWires - Sanyo - Sennet  |   -- INXS _Welcome to Wherever You Are_
Xref: sparky rec.audio.car:4870 misc.forsale:31233
From: snguyen@orion.oac.uci.edu (Desperately Seeking Sarah!)
Subject: Alpine amp and remote control forsale
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car,misc.forsale
Organization: University of California, Irvine
Date: 16 Nov 92 17:43:08 GMT
Distribution: usa

I have the following forsale:

Alpine amp 3530: 4x40 or 2x80, $250

Alpine 4390 remote control for 7360 or 7390: unused, $40

I also have box and manuals for both.

Son Nguyen
Office of Academic Computing
snguyen@uci.edu
(714)856-8415


Newsgroups: rec.audio.car,misc.forsale
From: ja51359@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (axelrod)
Subject: Re: Alpine amp and remote control forsale
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 19:28:48 GMT

snguyen@orion.oac.uci.edu (Desperately Seeking Sarah!) writes:

>I have the following forsale:

>Alpine amp 3530: 4x40 or 2x80, $250

I have a 3543: 2x100 or 1x300, $250.

Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: trw@spl1.spl.loral.com (Tim R Witort)
Subject: Re: Sony Changer Compatibility
Organization: Loral Software Productivity Laboratory
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 21:17:32 GMT

In article <1992Nov21.191547.1@acad.drake.edu>, tss001@acad.drake.edu writes:
|> In article <1992Nov20.182814.900@cmkrnl.com>, jeh@cmkrnl.com writes:

[...stuff about Unilink/XR compatibility deleted...]

|> The Sony rep told us that there was not, and would never be an adapter for the
|> old controllers/new changers...The format is totally different. there is a
|> cable that is only for data sharing and another for the signals...
|> they might have placed both in the same sheath by now, but that doesnt matter.
|> The point is...if you want a Unilink changer, you HAVE to buy a Unilink
|> controller, no ifs ands or buts.
|> Shaun.

   Well.... so much for backward compatibility!  Just the cost of
major design changes, I guess.

-- Tim
From: rob.runkle@cccbbs.UUCP (Rob Runkle) 
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: DECREASING VOLUME IN SUB-
Date: 17 Nov 92 00:04:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Cincinnati Computer Connection BBS - Cincinnati, OH - 513-752-8248
Reply-To: rob.runkle@cccbbs.UUCP (Rob Runkle) 

lawenrce,
-> Anyway, my question is, how can i reduce box volume without building
-> a new box, and without making the box any heavier?  Would blocks of
-> foam of the proper volume do the trick?`
Just put some bricks or some wood in the box.  Try to keep them from
rattling of course.  If you decide you like the new vol. better then you
can add a wood panel to the box or make a new one.
                Hope I helped,  Rob Runkle
                                                                               
Xref: sparky rec.audio.car:4897 alt.tasteless:12613
From: lemon@unssun.nevada.edu (John-John)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car,alt.tasteless
Subject: Re: Car alarms
Date: 17 Nov 92 08:29:04 GMT
Reply-To: lemon@unssun.scs.unr.edu (John-John)
Followup-To: rec.audio.car
Organization: University of Nevada-Reno

[Second try, pardon if i was fooled and the first one worked. *grumble*]

In article <1992Nov16.052253.6048@u.washington.edu> miolnir@stein.u.washington.edu (Scot Thorstad) writes:
>  Anyone have any particularly nasty things to do to the bastards 
>whose car alarms start screaming a 1:00 am and never shut up?
>(I expect something good from you a.t people)
>scot

Drain oil from motor (Remember to catch oil in a container and
dispose of properly...perhaps on that blue Nissan over there...).
Replace oil drain plug (very important step).  Walk away.
(I believe it might be possible to do this without triggering
the motion sensor, but you must be very gentle while doing it.)
Notice absence of said vehicle's vehement alarm the next night,
whilst you slumber in peace.

Drawbacks:
Note this is _costly_ to the owner of the vehicle, so you should
not do this as a practical joke to a friend.
For that matter, it could be dangerous given the speed with which
things mechanical move when an engine is running.

John ;)

      John A. LeMon           "Good my Lord, put your discourse in some frame  
     U. Nevada, Reno              and start not so wildly from my affair."     
  lemon@unssun.nevada.edu                       --Shakespeare              
 "My voice will rise and be heard, even if it kills me (or my mbox)!" -- Me.
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: ehawrysh@bnr.ca (Evan Hawrysh)
Subject: Re: Passive X-Over Chart Repost...
Reply-To: ehawrysh@bnr.ca
Organization: Bell Northern Research Ltd
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 92 12:15:06 GMT

re: tables of L and C values...

What I question about this is how many speakers have an impedance = DC resistance
at the xover point? Granted the impedance varies a little between identical speakers
but it's better to measure the impedance at the xover point so you have a better
idea as to whether that 4 ohm speaker is really 2 or 10 ohms where you want it 
crossed. The manufacturer/distributor can provide you with this info if you don't
have the equipment to test it out.

Evan


From: kirk@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Kirk Lindstrom)
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 19:20:38 GMT
Subject: Re: Alarm for carjacking
Organization: Shredding the water of SF Bay, HP-OCD
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car

any sudden moves, like a car moving, could very likely make the thief jump
just enough so he pulls the trigger, and since he knows that you are the 
prime witness, he'll probobly make sure you will never testify in court, get
it?
----------

Agreed.  What I need is a remote that I keep in a pocket that locks the
doors, rolls up the windows and releases a stink bomb (you thought I'd say
cyanide, but I wouldn't promote something like that:  besides what if it
goes off by accident while driving?).

In SF they are just doing it for kicks and trashing the car after so you
may as well lock them in and make em soil their shorts before they trash
your car.

Kirk (the victum becomes the agressor) out
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: gilchr@ee.ualberta.ca (Andrew Gilchrist)
Subject: Power lead inductance
Organization: University Of Alberta, Edmonton Canada
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 10:45:11 GMT


There's no simple way to predict the inductance of your +12 power
circuit.  It depends on not only the size of the wire, but on the
circuit path.  If the +12V wire is physically very close to the
return circuit (usually chassis), then inductance will be comparatively
small.

It has to do with the amount of energy stored in the magnetic field.

The self-impedance of a conductor depends on the number of flux-linkages
inside the conductor.  Thus, this is higher for larger wire guage sizes.
(Hollow conductors have minimal self-inductance... but I still don't see anyone
running copper plumbing tube in their cars for power).
SO, it would seem that one should use the smallest wire guage they can get
away with.

Also note that if the return path is the chassis, the conductor is STEEL.
The significance of this is that steel is ferromagnetic.  This implies
that the self-impedance will be much higher than for copper.


If I find my Westinghouse Power bible, I'll look up the numbers.

Andrew
From: milo@dorm.rutgers.edu (james mielo)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: REQUEST: VW Jetta upgrade advice
Date: 17 Nov 92 03:04:45 GMT
Followup-To: rec.audio.car
Organization: rutgers university



> >What brand (speakers and amps)? 
> 
> MB Quart makes a set designed especially for Jetta/Golf, major $$$$ though


         It'll run < $250 for the component set CS 215. It comes with the 5
1/4 plus the QM19hc 3/4 inch tweeter plus crossovers. My suggestion is to
avoid it.

       1)    The door mounted 5 1/4 that comes with the set IS NOT the
regular quart woofer and IS NOT as good as if you bought the seperates.


       2)   Plus, the tweeters are set up to be placed in the factory
location for the 3" in the dash. They do not provide proper imaging in that
location and if you wish to move them at a later date they don't come with
grills or mounting hardware to surface or flush mount them

         Also, I would recommend the QM25 over the 19 or go with the polk
1" tweeeter MM3000 $120/pair. The polk is smaller, less expensive and
sounds better than the QM19 and comes with the parts to flush/surface mount
the tweeter. it's also easier to mount and would be the best thing for you

         The QM 25 will run about $189 a pair plus are only the equal or
slightly better than the polk



> IMO.  In terms of amplifier, just get a good one, PPI, ADS, Pheonix Gold etc.

            ditto
 
                   
James Mielo
Rutgers College of Pharmacy '94
milo@dorm.rutgers.edu

 owner of a broken 1990 GTi 8v
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car,alt.locksmithing,alt.tasteless
From: hillman@carina.unm.edu (Dan Hillman)
Subject: Re: Car alarms
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 92 10:40:29 GMT
Organization: Holy Order of Quadra 950 Lust

In article <1992Nov16.052253.6048@u.washington.edu> miolnir@stein.u.washington.edu (Scot Thorstad) writes:
>
>  Anyone have any particularly nasty things to do to the bastards 
>whose car alarms start screaming a 1:00 am and never shut up?
>(I expect something good from you a.t people)

I usually like to polish the finish of the car with a ten-pound
sledgehammer. It only takes about fifteen swings to punch through
the hood and disable the alarm.

Then it's a simple matter to replace the fine motor oil they
normally use with infectious waste from the plasma center.

Let's see if they notice the difference.

ObTasteless: "This car protected by Viper. Stand back!"
-- 
"Society sucks. Pay it no mind." - Cynthia Heimel
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: david@ganglion.ann-arbor.mi.us (David Hwang)
Subject: Re: CD changer for Legend?
Keywords: CD Changer, Acura Legend
Organization: D.J. Services
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 23:03:41 GMT

In article <1992Nov12.150300.26963@panix.com> shawn@panix.com (Shawn Herzinger) writes:
>I know that this subject has been covered before but I forget
>what the responses were.
>
>What Aftermarket CD changer works with the factory Acura Legend
>Radio.  The radio has controls for the changer and the car is pre-
>wired to connect a changer in the trunk.  As usual, the dealer
>wants too much for an "Acura" changer.  If memory serves, doesn't
>Pioneer make the changers for Acura?
>
Alpine also makes CD Changers for Acura.  However, after extensive
research, I found out that they are made within a different section
of the company than the consumer electronic one, namely the OEM
department.  In addition, they are designed with different electronics
on board.  The control signals match up just fine with my old Alpine
unit, but the sound quality leaves something to be desired.  There
was very little bass and the L/R balance seemed to be messed up.
This happened on both the L and LS models (w/ and w/o Bose).

In short, you (and I) are screwed by Acura since they changed the
electronics in the changer unit.  I ended up paying (too much) for
an Acura unit.  Just the way they planned it, I'm sure.  I'm not
happy about it, but what can you do?

Good Luck,

David Hwang
>
>Thank you very much for your responses.
>
>-- 
>Shawn M. Herzinger
>shawn@panix.com


-- 
David W. Hwang, M.D.           //    University of Michigan Medical School
1050 Wall Street, Suite 10C   //           Telephone: 313/663-5557
Ann Arbor, Michigan 48105    //    Internet: david@ganglion.ann-arbor.mi.us
Xref: sparky rec.audio.car:4962 alt.locksmithing:2044 alt.tasteless:12740
From: hhtra@usho21.hou281.chevron.com (T.M.Haddock)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car,alt.locksmithing,alt.tasteless
Subject: Re: Nabbing a car thief (was: car alarms)
Date: 19 Nov 92 18:03:40 GMT
Organization: Chevron

In article <1eegh0INNg50@athena.sdsu.edu>, dunster@sdsu.edu (mark dunster) writes:
|> In article <kmr4.257.722096419@po.CWRU.edu>, kmr4@po.CWRU.edu 
|> (Keith M. Ryan) writes:
|>                         <technical details deleted> 
|> > 	Late one night, ~ 3 am, my pager went off, and I quickly put my 
|> > shoes on, called 911 then grabbed the family 12 ga. I quietly went out the 
|> > back door, and came around. He was lying on the seat, trying to work the 
|> > Alpine head unit out. I shone my maglight on him, and told him to freeze. I 
|> > think he lost his bowels. :-) Doing hard time, doing hard time. They got him 
|> > on grand theft auto.
|> 
|> Presumably, then, you held this s.o.b. captive whilst waiting for the cops
|> to arrive. I've often wondered about someone actually doing this, and now
|> at long last I've discovered a real person who has. I'm intrigued:
|> 
|> How did the cops react when they arrived on the scene? Did they order you 
|> to drop your weapon? (after all, they don't know at first sight who's the 
|> good guy).
|> 
|> What did they think of you holding a thief at gunpoint? Did they commend
|> you, or were they a little pissed off (their recommendation is to never
|> confront a thief if possible)
|> 
|> Is it actually legal to make a "citizen's arrest" of a car thief with 
|> a gun?
|> 
|> How did you hold the thief? Did you make him stay lying on the floor, with
|> his hands behind his head?
|> 
|> If he had decided to make a run for it, you presumably wouldn't want to 
|> shoot him in the back (manslaughter I would think). My guess is that most 
|> thieves would just make a run for it, and not give up quietly.

 There is a similar thread running over on  rec.guns

 Here in Texas, it's okay to use deadly force to protect life and 
 property.  Several months ago, a guy came home to his rural house
 to find bugulars climbing out his windows.  Getting out of his truck
 with a rifle, he shot one dead on-the-spot and then proceeded to
 chase 2 or 3 across open-fields.  There he shot them down, the last
 one was over 100 yards away from the house.  The cops just warned
 him - "Bubba, be careful next time, you coulda tripped on a cow patty."
 i.e. - the country grand jury no-billed him.

 But then there's the one about the guy who had his silent pager alarm
 go off, went outside, surprised the thieves, and was shot dead.


 TRAVIS
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: trw@spl1.spl.loral.com (Tim R Witort)
Subject: Re: How do you change two RCA outputs to four?
Organization: Loral Software Productivity Laboratory
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 23:31:22 GMT

In article <17098@umd5.umd.edu>, ui68@linus.umd.edu (Bill Kyte) writes:
|> 
|>    Tha question is clearly stated in the subject line. To those who respond
|> I'm sendind out my thanks now.  Thank You.

   Assuming you just want to split an RCA output, you can use
an RCA "Y" connector to split any RCA channel you want:

                                                   /=====||||-
                                                  //       ^
  single RCA channel ==============||||-  #|||===<<      males
                                     ^      ^     \\       v
                                     |      |      \=====||||-
                                   male   female

  Presto! One channel is now two! Keep in mind that depending on
what components are being connected, the line levels may not be
what they would be if no splitting was done.

  These kind of RCA gizmos (among others) are available at
Radio Shack (and other stores too, I'm sure).

-- Tim