HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: dmunroe@vcd.hp.com (Dave Munroe)
Subject: Re: Coasting with an automatic
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 05:22:26 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Hewlett-Packard

In article <Bx6Gxv.EM9@uxa.ecn.bgu.edu> gsu0001@uxa.ecn.bgu.edu (Michael Linden) writes:
>  I'm looking for input on possible problems with putting automatic
>transmissions in neutral to coast up to stop signs and lights. I have
>heard that this can be bad for an automatic transmission because once
>disengaged from the engine (neutral), the tranny fluid is no longer
>pumped through the transmission cooler causing the transmission to run
>hotter.

There are a couple of issues here.  First, your automatic tranny might not
even have an oil cooler (i.e. you might not have a separate cooler in front
of the radiator).  In any case, the transmission fluid is still circulating
in the transmission, regardless of whether it's in neutral or not.  In fact,
if you're at stoplights for a long time, you can reduce heat in the auto
tranny by putting it in neutral.

>  The reason I am asking is because my Mom likes doing this because she
>has noticed how much less effort is required by the brakes to stop the
>car (not fighting the engine at lower speeds).

That's like putting a manual transmission car in neutral, too.  Sure it brakes
quicker, but it's more wear on the brakes.  One might argue that going into
neutral causes less wear on the engine, too, but if you stayed in gear I doubt
if the increased engine braking under everyday conditions causes that much
engine wear.  Even when in gear, braking should be relatively effortless -
unless you've got an old Peterbilt with no power brakes.

Personally, I'd stay in gear just to be able to react quickly to an emergency.
But then, when I drive an automatic, I put it in neutral at stoplights and
run it through the gears (well, 2, 3, D) for better performance.

-Dave
                      /\       /\
                     /##\     /##\
                    /####\   /####\
                    \####/\ /\####/
                     \##/  X  \##/
                      \/  / \  \/
                         /   \

		   Team Club Lotus NW

                  "WILL RACE FOR FOOD"
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: fwk@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (f.w.kerfoot..iii)
Subject: Re: Recommendations for one-man brake bleeding tools?
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 13:48:35 GMT

From article <1992Nov12.160501.13901@unvax.union.edu>, by romansks@unvax.union.edu (Steve Romanski):
> andrew@airs.com (Andrew Evans) writes:
> 
>>I need a tool that will allow me to bleed my brakes without an
>>assistant to pump the brake pedal.  In my car's Haynes manual they
> 
>>Andrew Evans (andrew@airs.com) - Infinity Development Systems - Waltham, MA
> 
> I just use a piece of tubing, I prefer clear like from an aquarium pump
> but anything will work like a piece of vacuume tube, and a clean glass
> jar.
> 
> Then connect tube to bleeder nozzle and place other end in a glass jar.
> Open the bleeder valve a little and then
> just pump the peddle until there are no more bubbles comming
> out of the tube.
> 
> The jar will fill with brake fluid as you pump the peddle
> MAKE SURE YOU KEEP an eye on the resivour DON't pump it dry, and
> always keep it full with clean brake fluid.
> 
> When the brake peddle is released it will just
> suck some of the brake fluid that is in the jar back in and not air.
> When you are ready just tighten the nozzle while the hose is still attached.
> 
This is not a very good idea, for several reasons. First, the environment
around the bleeder valve is typically relatively dirty. As the fluid
comes out into the hose, it picks up some of the dirt. When you pump
the pedal without closing the bleeder valve, some of that fluid, with
the dirt, is sucked back into the cylinder. A second reason is that
the bleeder valves typically leak some air under vacuum. This is a
typical complaint of those who have bought vacuum bleeders. They see
some bubbles even when the system contains no air, due to air leakage
at the bleeder valve. In this case, the risk of bleeder valve leakage
is that some air will be drawn back into the cylinder with the returning
fluid when the pedal is lifted.

All in all, this is a plausible method in a pinch, but it is worth
some effort to find a better method for routine bleeding.

Frank Kerfoot
fwk@hogpa.att.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: Jump-starting Seized Engine: POSSIBLE?
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 14:24:41 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL
Keywords: Jumpstart, lubrication, seized, overhaul

 If you think it's siezed, remove all of the plugs, put it in neutral and
turn it over by hand (OK, use a tool). If there's a center bolt on the
crank pulley, put a breaker bar and socket on it and turn in the normal
(CW) direction. Even a fresh engine will turn readily; an older loose one
can be turned by hand if you have the grip.

 Clean the battery posts and cable ends. Get one of those battery brush
thingies that does the inside and outside; they're well worth the two bucks.
Check the starter cable connections down below for corrosion/tightness.
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Lunk, lunk, lunk -- wheel bearings?
From: pzh@albatross.dsto.gov.au (Paul Heuer)
Date: 11 Nov 92 08:41:02 CST

eliot@chutney.rtp.dg.com (Topher Eliot) writes:

>My 80 Civic with 100K miles has started making a little lunk, lunk, lunk
>sound when turn I left through an intersection (i.e. at greater than driveway
>speed).  As I recall this is a sign of wheel bearings starting to go.  True?

>If so, do I need to worry about it?  Is there any reason not to just let it
>go until it becomes really obvious?  Will my wheel come off and leave me
>dramatically stuck in the middle of an intersection (not to mention having
>an interesting effect on the underside of my car :-)

>-- 
>Topher Eliot             Data General DG/UX Systems Administration Development
>(919) 248-6371                                             eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com
>Obviously, I speak for myself, not for DG.
>misc.consumers.house archivist.  Send mail to house-archive@dg-rtp.dg.com
>"I can understand Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles, but I can't understand mutually
>recursive inline functions."  --anon.

The sound you describe is most likely to be a constant velocity (CV) joint on
its way out. The CV joint is the rubber-booted thing at either end of the
shafts running from the drivetrain assembly to the wheels on your car.
Be warned, they are not cheap!
Paul Heuer (pzh@aeg.dsto.gov.au)
From: Peter.Hammond@brunel.ac.uk (Peter D Hammond)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Recommendations for one-man brake bleeding tools?
Date: 12 Nov 92 16:49:41 GMT
Organization: Brunel University, Uxbridge, UK
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]

f.w.kerfoot..iii (fwk@cbnewsh.cb.att.com) wrote:
 {Description of home-made pressure bleeding kit deleted}
: 
: Many variations are possible. If you can't get a spare reservoir cap,
: you could fabricate a sheet metal plate and a rubber gasket (old
: inner tube) with a tire valve in it, and clamp it to the top of the
 {More stuff deleted}

Or you could buy one. Gunson's make the Eze-bleed (I think that's spelt
the appropriate incorrect way;-), which is pretty much what Frank described,
except that it's pressurised by the spare wheel. It has a bottle of fluid in
the line to prevent the reservoir running dry. I think they are brilliant;
bleeding is just like turning on a tap (as long as the `tap' isn't siezed
up, of course). Caveat: I know one person who totally deflated his spare tyre
on one, and then got a flat on his way to the garage to pump it up, but I
would like to know how as I have never used anything like that much air. Also,
I know quite a few people who prefer the vacuum type (made at home from a
medical syringe).

: Have fun-
: 
: Frank Kerfoot
: fwk@hogpa.att.com

-- 
BFN, Pete.

 Dept. Materials Technology | Dont pay any attention. | You sometimes have to  
 Brunel University          | Its only my opinion.    |    listen to
 Uxbridge                   |                         | A lot of useless talk.
 Middx, UB8 3PH, UK.        |                         |         N. Peart. (RUSH)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hsd@swl.msd.ray.com (HERBERT DASILVA)
Subject: Re: Do I have grease fittings (or a place for them)?
Organization: Raytheon Company, Tewksbury, MA
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 18:13:00 GMT

welchb@woods.ulowell.edu writes:

>How do you tell if your car is able to be greased?  I.e., if you take it to a
>quicky oil change place for a complete oil and lube job, and then find
>that all they had to do is change the oil, you could do it yourself.

>My daughter has a '91 Plymouth Acclaim.  I got out the Chiltons from the
>library which covered a lot of cars (including that one).  It amazes me
>that such an erudite and supposedly complete publication does not cover
>the subject.  A generation ago, every gas station had a manual near the
>lube rack, showing the (many) lubrication points; you wanted to be sure
>that your mechanic did not miss any.  I understand that many cars are
>supposedly permanently or semi-permanently greased (bringing up the
>problem of whether fittings should be permanently installed).

  Right.  Many cars simply have no grease fittings, which can actually lead
  to premature failure if the grease gets contaminated due to a failed
  seal, since you have no way to get new grease in without tapping the
  joint and installing a fitting.

>In the  case of the Acclaim, under the heading of replacing the lower
>support arm, they obscurely say to grease the replaced arm.  But the
>fitting does not appear in the diagram.  The word "grease" does not
>appear in any index or table of contents.  The word "lubrication" does
>not appear in the context of the traditional grease gun.

  You should find 4 grease fittings on this (and most other) FWD Chryslers.
  You'll find two on each side, one facing the ground at the bottom of the
  ball joint (look inside the wheel from the engine side, it's at the
  bottom), and one facing up at each steering rod end (almost inside the
  tire on the rear side of the axle).

>I agree that times have changed, and a book has a right to cater to advanced
>subjects like replacing engine pistons, but IMHO they are missing part of the
>forest because of the trees. 

  Did you look in the "maintenance" section (Not necessarily brand
  specific)?  If it's not there, you might want to invest in a set of
  factory manuals.  There's an order form in the back of the car's owner's
  manual.

>Brendan Welch, UMass/Lowell, W1LPG,  welchb@woods.ulowell.edu

	Herb "Mopar Maniac" DaSilva
Organization: Junior, Math/Computer Science, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 15:20:06 -0500 
From: Stefan E Sherwood <ssa7+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: New tranny needed?

A friend has an '85 Mitsubishi Tredia Turbo (Manual Trans.) with about
108K miles on it.  Recently, the tip of the front axel broke off into
the differential.  The shop said that it was a risky thing to do to just
replace the axel since the peice in the transmission could cause
problems.  He replaced the axel, and as warned, there were problems. 
Now the car doesn't shift into 4th or 5th gear.  Now the shop says that
replacing the transmission with a used one is the best way to go since
fixing the problem would cost much more than replacing it.  Does anyone
know of any way of removing that peice from the differential without
completely removing the transmission?  The car is worth little more than
the cost of replacing the transmission and it seems like a real pity to
ditch a car that runs so well.  It's even worse for me since I sold it
to him and that will mean that I'll have to give him his money back and
scrap the car.  I just can't afford to keep it.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Stefan Sherwood
ssa7@andrew.cmu.edu
(Carnegie-Mellon University)

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: orr@epcot.spdc.ti.com (Ken Orr)
Subject: Re: variable back-pressure/silencing exhaust
Organization: TI Semiconductor Process and Design Center
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1992 01:38:10 GMT

In article <2246.88.uupcb@chaos.lrk.ar.us> dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)  writes:
>
>->      I think Yamaha has a motorcycle that uses variable back-pressure
>-> to increase low end torque and still provide high end hp - any one
>-> know of this system or any similar systems?
>
> The Yamaha system changes the resonant characteristics of the
>exhausts of their two stroke machines.  The system isn't applicable to
>four strokes.

     What about the "EXUP" exhaust systems on the FZR's ?? FZR's are four
strokes. 

     "86 Ninja 600R"                               K.O.
  "DOD #306 AMA #615088"                       T.I. Dallas Tx.
    "Eclipse GS Turbo"                      Orr@epcot.spdc.ti.com
From: wlsmith@valve.heart.rri.uwo.ca (Wayne Smith)
Subject: Re: Venting a V8 crankcase..........
Organization: University of Western Ontario
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 15:39:19 GMT

In article <2030059@otter.hpl.hp.com> sgm@otter.hpl.hp.com (Steve Methley) writes:
>I have a Rover (ex Buick) 3.5l (215cu) V8 engine which I use in my off road
>vehicle.  The engine is not in it's first flush of youth, so there is a good
>amount of blow-by hence a high crankcase pressure.  The little pipe feeding to
>the carb is too small to relieve this pressure, with the result that at high
>revs there is now oil blowing past the rear seal onto the clutch.  As I don't
>want to do a seal/clutch/ring job I'd like to vent the crankcase more
>effectively.

A 215 cubic inch engine is kinda small for a V-8?  Must be a cute little
engine.  :)

I've got a 65 Dodge (straight 6, 225 cu) and a 67 Dodge (318 cu, v-8).
Most 60's and 70's vintage cars over hear have a PCV (postive crankcase
ventalation) valve that comes off the valve cover and goes to the carb.
Also, the oil filler cap, which is mounted on the valve cover, has a
bit of an air filter in it and it allows air into the crank case to
replace air that get's sucked out by the PCV valve.  But since the
valve is under negative pressure most of the time, I don't think it is that
effective in pulling air out of the crank case.

Anyways, I recently rebuilt my slant-6, because I was getting blow-by
caused by general engine wear, and some broken rings in #2 cylinder.
In my case, the blowby would endup coming out of the filler cap, and generally
making for a dirty/oily engine near the cap.

>Here's what was suggested to me by a rally enthusiast: Plug the vent pipe to
>the carb and vent the engine via a large bore pipe to the atmosphere - but put
>a trap in the pipe to catch oil droplets.  The trap should be a sealed
>container of water, semi-full, with the vent pipe from the engine feeding under
>the water surface and a second pipe to atmosphere clear of the water.

If you need to trap the oil, then you must have a really bad case of blow-
by, and you really should channel your efforts into a ring job instead.
The simple solution is to remove your oil filler cap and replace it with
an aftermarket "breathable" cap (ie a cap with a filter that let's air
in or out).  You can always wrap a rag around the filter, and the rag
will soak up the oil as it comes out.

You can leave the pcv valve (what you call the vent pipe to the carb) in,
but just make sure that under suction, the valve closes.  The carb does not
like a leaky pvc valve.

-Later:Wayne-
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu (Rockville)
Subject: Re: Hydraulic Valve Adjuster, What Are?
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1992 03:23:26 GMT

Karl Nordstrom <KXN2@psuvm.psu.edu> writes:

>What are hydraulic valve adjuster in a DOHC engine?

In any engine that has them, the hydraulic adjusters reside at some point in
the linkage between cam and valve.  The adjusters are basically little 
cylinders containing little pistons that are expanded by engine oil pressure.
As the valve train and valve seats wear, the adjusters expand or contract
to compensate for this wear and keep the valve clearances at the proper level.

Advantages:	Zero Maintenance
		Silence

Disadvantage:	Silence

-- 
Michael T. Chaffee        |****COLORADO BOYCOTTER******|  ______    
mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu | Professional Slapthologist |  \    /     HATE
Member, Universal Life Church, Sect of Loons           |   \  /  can never be
Annoyance Theatre Platinum Member |     Evil Genius    |    \/  a FAMILY VALUE
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: RFI:Putting Balls in your gas
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 22:49:19 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 There's two types of moth balls, napthalene and paradichlorobenzene. The
latter will probably smell very bad, and have unknown effects in the cylinder
and downwind. The optimum amount of the former I dunno.
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
From: sl0mv@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Putting a 5spd Manual in a `61 Chevy Apache 10
Date: 9 Nov 92 19:34:06 MDT
Distribution: rec
Organization: Utah State University

In article <YOUNG.92Nov6103420@kuwait.whizkids>, young@whizkids (Mark Young) writes:
> 
> I am interested in putting a 5spd manual transmission in a `61
> Chevy Truck.  I currently have a 3spd manual which causes the 
> truck to run at high RPM's during highway driving.  I would 
> love to convert to a 5spd manual.  I suspect that the 5spd 
> manuals that Chevrolet has been putting in there full sized
> trucks the last few years might work (with a few mods).  Can
> anyone tell me where to start.  How can I determine bolt pattern,
> transmission length, etc.  Are there books that might give 
> me adequate cross reference data?  Has anyone seen an article 
> concerning this mod?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mark Young


read files 32589-32590
From: Charles.K.Scott@dartmouth.edu (Charles K. Scott)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Hydraulic Valve Adjuster, What Are?
Date: 12 Nov 92 17:04:09 GMT
 <BxJ08E.JDC@news.cso.uiuc.edu>
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH
X-Posted-From: InterNews1.0a5@newshost.dartmouth.edu

In article <BxJ08E.JDC@news.cso.uiuc.edu>
mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu (REAL LIFE?!?!  HA!!) writes:

> >Do hydraulic valve adjusters provide any other function?  I have heard of
> >hydraulic lifters in OHV engines that allow the engine to use a hotter cam
> >but still maintain decent low rpm drive-ability.
> 
> I don't believe they affect the actual valve behavior at all, but I could be
> wrong.

Actually, I think this is the case.  Plain tappets that are manually
adjusted have to have a gradual slope for the cam ramp and the same for
the backside of the cam in order to prevent abnormal wear.  But
hydralic valve adjusters have no valve lash, no clearance at all
actually so they can follow more radically ground cams.  Or so I've
been told.  :-)

Corky Scott
From: sgm@otter.hpl.hp.com (Steve Methley)
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 13:26:09 GMT
Subject: Venting a V8 crankcase..........
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories, Bristol, UK.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

I have a Rover (ex Buick) 3.5l (215cu) V8 engine which I use in my off road
vehicle.  The engine is not in it's first flush of youth, so there is a good
amount of blow-by hence a high crankcase pressure.  The little pipe feeding to
the carb is too small to relieve this pressure, with the result that at high
revs there is now oil blowing past the rear seal onto the clutch.  As I don't
want to do a seal/clutch/ring job I'd like to vent the crankcase more
effectively.

Here's what was suggested to me by a rally enthusiast: Plug the vent pipe to
the carb and vent the engine via a large bore pipe to the atmosphere - but put
a trap in the pipe to catch oil droplets.  The trap should be a sealed
container of water, semi-full, with the vent pipe from the engine feeding under
the water surface and a second pipe to atmosphere clear of the water.

Obviously the idea is to have a low backpressure vent to atmosphere with a
series water filter for the fumes.  I'm told it's common in rallying and have
seen a picture of such an installation.

I'd love to know if anyone has tried this and what experiences resulted, or any
thoughts even if you havn't tried it.

All replies gratefully received.
Cheers,
Steve.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sontakke@helix.enet.dec.com (Vikas Sontakke)
Subject: Re: Recommendations for one-man brake bleeding tools?
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 15:01:11 GMT


In article <3123@contex.contex.com>, frank@marvin.contex.com (Frank Perdicaro) writes...
> 
>Yeah, I though about this for too long.  Finally, I went out and got
>one of those hand pump things.  What a pain.  But then, I modified it
>but using some of the provided accessories, and it works great.
> 
>I bought 15' of small vac hose, and ran it from an available vac port
>to the guage port on the gizmo.  Start the car, and you have infinite
>vac with no drawback.  Brake fluid goes in to the cup; follow the rest
>of the directions provided.  The one other accessory you might want is
>a spring loaded clamp so you can clamp this whole assembly to
>something like the axle, disk, or fender and have zero-hand operation.
> 
>Much much much better than anything else I have ever heard of or seen.
> 
>Total cost is about $70.  Expected lifetime with occasional use is
>indefinite.  Check the CAP and AutoPalace chains locally for all the
>parts.
>--

Very intersting idea!  I also have the MityVac pump/gauge but never used for
brake bleeding.  I use old fashioned two-people method.

What I don't get is why would you need to have the gizmo in the middle?? Can't
you just hook up the cup and tubes to the infinite vaccum source as you aptly
put it and NOT BUY the pump/gauge at all and save $65 of that $70??

Vikas Sontakke		Digital Equipment Corporation, Maynard MA.
Internet:		sontakke@helix.enet.dec.com
    uucp:		{decvax,ucbvax,allegra}!decwrl!helix.enet!sontakke
			sontakke%helix.enet@decwrl.dec.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Bleed Brakes After Changing Pads?
From: butler@vax.sonoma.edu
Date: 9 Nov 92 12:20:18 -0800
Organization: Sonoma State University


I've always got away with not having to bleed the brake system after
changing brake pads.  Is this a bad idea?  Anyone have any comments
or info on this matter?

Thanks,

-Bob      (butler@sonoma.edu)
From: eliot@chutney.rtp.dg.com (Topher Eliot)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: "official" shop manuals vs. Chilton's
Date: 4 Nov 92 16:05:16 GMT
Reply-To: eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com
Organization: Data General Corporation, Research Triangle Park, NC

In article <1992Nov03.201144.2714@bmerh85.bnr.ca>, ehawrysh@bnr.ca (Evan Hawrysh) writes:
|> The worst thing about the Haynes
|> and Chiltons are they group many years into one book, and soooo many things
|> are overlooked when they do that. (I had a Chilton for a Chev Monza, and a 
|> Haynes for a Sentra. The Haynes was so incorrect, I just don't bother with it
|> anymore). 
This isn't consistently true.  In some books they group together a whole bunch
of different models or years, in others they are quite particular.

-- 
Topher Eliot             Data General DG/UX Systems Administration Development
(919) 248-6371                                             eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com
Obviously, I speak for myself, not for DG.
misc.consumers.house archivist.  Send mail to house-archive@dg-rtp.dg.com
"I can understand Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles, but I can't understand mutually
recursive inline functions."  --anon.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech