HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: Jack.Honeycutt@f52.n105.z1.therose.pdx.com (Jack Honeycutt)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Pond Building
Date: 19 Aug 92 06:14:16 GMT
Article-I.D.: therose.714294265.F00002

Hello K.!

18 Aug 92, K. Rogers writes to All:

 KR> You should be aware the EPDM is controversially "in".  You have to
 KR> make very very sure you get a particular kind which hasn't been
 KR> treated in some way.

Some EPDM has a "talc" (kind of like baby powder) on it.  It is
dusted on at the factory to help the rolls of liner not stick
together.  One needs to wash it off before introducing expensive
fish.

 KR> Yeah, I know, I'm fuzzy on the details, but I've
 KR> read over and over about people getting the wrong kind of EPDM and
 KR> having to take it out again.

See above.

 KR> I don't know what advantages EPDM liners
 KR> have over butyl ones to tempt you to use one.

     The advantage is less cost.  I have examined what is sold as
"butyl" liners in my area only to find they are EPDM.  Real Butyl
is very expensive.  VERY expensive.

 KR> Maybe someone else can
 KR> fill us in on it?

I have been a member of the International Water lily Society sence it was
started and I run BBS for garden Pond construction and aquatic plants.  I build
ponds work with others.   Pond builders and aquatic plant people have Symposiums
in diffrent parts of the US about once a year or so.  Please join us, and the
vendors, for more information.  If I can help you out, please let me know.

 KR> Unless they're God's gift to pond builders I think
 KR> I'd just stick with butyl liners.

have a nice day.

 KR> BTW, I've forgotten what EPDM stands for, so no help there.

Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer

Jack
Newsgroups: rec.gardens,rec.food.cooking
From: peterson@ucunix.san.uc.edu (John M. Peterson)
Subject: Fire and Ice
Organization: University of Cincinnati
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 92 18:36:55 GMT


    Now that tomatoes are coming in reasonable numbers (at least
here) the following may be useful.

...
  "This refreshing Fire and Ice salad, popular in the South, is
usually made with sliced tomatoes, onions, and green peppers.  We
prefer it with just meaty chunks of tomato and served in saucers 
with spoons because we like the sauce.
   I make it first thing, in the cool of the morning, and the
flavors are perfectly blended by dinnertime.  The tomatoes wilt
during longer storage so make just what you can eat.

                FIRE AND ICE
               (Two servings)

2 large ripe tomatoes
2 tbsps. (scant) cider vinegar
2 tsp. water
1 tsp. sugar
1/4 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. mustard seed
1/8 tsp. celery seed
2 drops hot pepper sauce
Pinch pepper
   Peel the tomatoes.  Cut them in half crosswise and with a spoon
remove seeds and juice from the seed pockets.  You may discard this
but I add a little salt and drink it, then and there.  Coarsely cut
the tomatoes into a bowl and set aside.
   Combine the remaining ingredients in a small saucepan.  Bring to
boiling and simmer 1 minute.  Pour over the tomatoes and stir to
mix.  Cover and chill well, stirring once if you think of it.
   Serve very cold, juice and all, and eat with a spool.  This dish
is good with a meal or as a separate first course if you prefer."...

Peterson, Mary Pledge, Cooking for Two, WOMEN'S CIRCLE HOME
COOKING, August, 1982, pp 28-9.


+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
|  peterson@headcheese.daa.uc.edu      	 In real life: John M. Peterson  |
|                                                                        |
|  College of Design Architecture Art & Planning                         |
|  University of Cincinnati           45221-0016           513-556-1207  |
+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
From: jhb@calmasd.prime.com (Jim Bishop)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Dandelions (was Re: ORGANIC lawn care???)
Date: 22 Aug 92 07:49:31 GMT
Organization: -

In article <1992Aug18.165825.3010@ucsu.Colorado.EDU>, buckc@ucsu.Colorado.EDU (Carolyn Buck-Gengler) writes:
> <in response to the above and a couple others who advocated leaving
> dandelions in the yard...>
> There are a couple reasons that some might not want dandelions in
> their lawns and gardens:
> 1) Some folk are allergic to them (like *me*!  bringing my mom a
> dandelion bouquet at the age of 4 or so is how I discovered my
> (inherited, I think) hayfever/pollen allergy/whatever you want to
> call it)

Since Southern California doesn't have dandelions I'll stay out of the
argument about the correctness or incorrectness of removing them from
the yard; and I also won't share my thoughts on growing a lawn in an
arid climate.  However, I do have some thoughts on being allergic to
dandelions.  Though I'm just an allergy sufferer an not an allergist,
I doubt that you are allergic to dandelions.  As Kay points out in
another post, dandelions are pollinated by bees.  Most plants with
showy or fragrant flowers are pollinated by insects,birds, or bats. 
For the most part, these plants produce pollen that is too large or
heavy to be carried by the wind.  Most pollen allergies result from
plants that use the wind to carry their pollen (i.e. trees, grasses,
and weeds).

I would guess that you are allergic to something that releases pollen
at the same time that dandelions bloom.  Many people claim to be
allergic to goldenrod, but are actually allergic to ragweed which
pollinates at the same time.

One exception that I know to this rule is celosia.  It has showy
plumes, but was hybridized from a weed.  It produces lots of pollen
that is spread by the wind.  


Jim
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Bt
Date: 14 Aug 92 17:32:28 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

Archie: 
My mailer is having a tough time with your address.

>I haven't read anything here that will cause me to stop using BT.  I've never
>had the experience of spraying BT on a crop once and then not have that crop
>bothered again by the same caterpillar pests.  I guess that the BT that I've
>been able to obtain is not as robust as that for which you cite evidence of
>residual effect.  I have never observed any residual effect after spraying
>with BT, but it has never failed to take care of an immediate problem.
>

Nope, this was plain ol' Dipel, and two of us (a botanist and an
entomologist) who used it for cabbage loopers at sites 10 mi apart
noticed the same effect.   That was about 10 years ago.  And we were
both doing field work at the time, so there was plenty of opportunity
to compare our gardens to sites elsewhere in the state, and to native
plant communities.

Could be you're selecting for Dipel resistance?


>I guess I take my gardening a little more seriously than you do.  I put a fair
>amount of time and effort into it, and it ruins my day when I just end up "feeding
>the bugs."  I firmly believe that use of biological controls is a
>reasonable compromise between "slob gardening" (your term) and use of "hard"
>pesticides.

Sure, I think it is too.   But when I have the choice of cultural/
mechanical controls vs. a broad-spectrum pesticide of any type, I
prefer the cultural/mechanical controls unless I can use the broad-spectrum
pesticide with some degree of precision: for instance, I kill things like
leafy spurge and sweetclover on prairies with Roundup (broad spectrum
herbicide) applied with a stamp licker, so I don't get the plant next
to it, too.

I put a fair amount of time into my gardens, too, and I enjoy the produce--
I just figure that a certain percentage is going to go to "feeding the
bugs" and plant accordingly.

>By the way, where in Iowa is UNI (or have I somehow gotten the state wrong)?

Cedar Falls.  Next to Waterloo.  NE part of state.

Kay

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: usenet@overload.lbl.gov
Subject: huckleberry & redbud propagation
Organization: Information and Computer Sciences Dept. (ICSD)
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 21:13:24 GMT

Anyone succesfully propagated Huckleberry (Vaccinium Ovatum, I think,
the one with pea-size blue berries)? I've tried cuttings in water &
perlite, using rooting hormone, cuttings from spring & early summer,
raising the humdity with plastic bags, nothing works. The cuttings seem
to live for months, but never root.

Also, my germination rate for redbud (Cercis?) seeds is about 3%; I've been
stratifying and/or scarifying, nothing seems very consistent. The seeds
I've been using had been on the tree for a whole season; would the
current year's crop be better?

mike chin
MJChin@lbl.gov
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: sweiger@sequent.com (Mark Sweiger)
Subject: Re: HELP ME! California Redwood
Keywords: sequoia, redwood
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems Inc.
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 92 21:10:42 GMT

In article <55703@olivea.atc.olivetti.com> elefante@flash.ATC.Olivetti.Com (GUEST Luigi Elefante) writes:
>In my article I wrote:
>
>> Thanks everybody for the advices,
>> 
>> but I've another question:
>> my plants are grown in big pots, now I'd like to plant them in the soil..
>> I think the best period seems october before snow because I'll plant
>> in a locality 26 feet high on Italian Alps.
>> I'd like to know book titles about the argument.
>> 
>> Could anyone help me?
>> 
>> Best Regards,
>> 
>> Massimo Barontini
>> ITALY: maxb@king.ICO.Olivetti.Com
>> USA: elefante@flash.ATC.Olivetti.Com
>
>the locality is 2600 feet (~800 metres) high!!!
>
>I have another information about: I bought the plants in a test tube in
>Big Basin State Park (near Santa Cruz) like these sold in Sequoia National
>Park and in Yosemite. Do anyone know what kind of plants are these?

I used to live about 5 miles from Big Basin.  The trees you bought are
California Redwoods, Sequoia Sempervirens.  These are billed as the
tallest trees on earth in their natural habitat.  I had one in my
former yard that was 22 feet in diameter at the base and 320 feet
tall.  It was known as the Big Redwood Park tree.  The tree was
believed to be about 2,000 years old.  They get very big
and essentially impossible to kill, because even if you cut one down
they sprout again from the roots.  And they grow at least 10 feet a
year under favorable conditions.

>
> Best Regards,
> 
> Massimo Barontini
> ITALY: maxb@king.ICO.Olivetti.Com
> USA: elefante@flash.ATC.Olivetti.Com
>
>p.s. Sorry for my mistake and my bad English.


-- 
phone: (503)578-4329    fax: (503)578-5730   internet: sweiger@sequent.com
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 07:34:39 EDT
From: <TMH1@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Morning glories abruptly stopped blooming

I have some of those sky-blue morning glories in a planter on my front stoop
and they were climbing and blooming just fine early in the summer, then
suddenly a month or two ago they just stopped.  Stopped climbing, stopped
blooming.  They haven't withered and died; they just seem frozen in place.
The little buds that are supposed to become blooms are hard as a rock.

Meanwhile I have friends whose morning glories have climbed and bloomed all
summer long.

Any ideas on what I did wrong?  Are morning glories sensitive to too much
sun?  Not enough sun?  The pressure-treated lumber from which the planter
was made?  (It doesn't seem to bother the petunias in the same planter?)

Thanks in advance for whatever ideas you might have.

P.S.  I'm in central Pennsylvania...it's been a cool summer here.

                               --Tina Hay at Penn State
From: viking@iastate.edu (Dan Sorenson)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: when to plant iris
Summary: When should I plant iris bulbs?
Keywords: iris, planting
Date: 13 Aug 92 01:28:35 GMT
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames IA

A co-worker recently brought several bags of iris bulbs to work, told
us to divide the booty, and then left on a month-long vacation. This
has left those of us unlucky enough to still be slaving away in the lab
wondering how to care for these plants.  I seem to remember hearing that
iris should be planted in the fall.  If we plant them now, will they
bloom in the spring?  What kind of sun do they like?  Any advice and/or
tips on caring for iris would be appreciated.


April

========================================================================
\ April, posting from my boyfriend's account, often with his knowledge./
/ e-mail replies to viking@iastate.edu with "April" in the first line  \
\ Never trust a double-major in Botony and Phytopathology with your    /
/ houseplants-- me, from personal expeerience.                         \
========================================================================
From: kho@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (kelvin.ho)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: What to do to the lawn in Fall?
Date: 21 Aug 92 12:27:51 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories

I am new to lawn maintanence, so I have a very simple
question.

My lawn is full of weeds, a lot of weeds.....
There are "crab" (?) weed, and something like wheat or rice.

I was trying to pull them all out, but there is a lot ... my yard
is about 1/3 acre. Someone told me that I could not do anything
but wait until Fall (Oct.). Then, the weeds will stop growing, and I can
seed the lawn....

What exactly I should do to the lawn?

Should I hire someone to do it? or should I do it myself?

Please help. Thanks.

Kelvin
From: pharvey@mipos3.intel.com (Paul Harvey)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: African Violets
Date: 12 Aug 92 19:55:38 GMT

In article <berthiau.713642344@iros1> 
berthiau@IRO.UMontreal.CA (Andre Berthiaume) writes:
>I first got the plant back in April with flowers.  Then the flowers wither 
>and dry (as I asume they normally do).

They are "pushed" such that they are unsustainably attractive so you will buy
them. So what you described is normal. They need a rest period after having
supported the flowers you saw when you bought them.

>Then I guess I made the mistake of trimming off some of the flowers
>that were past their prime.  Now was that a mistake? 

Nope, you did the correct thing. As soon as the flowers are unattractive to
you, you should prune them. That is how you get more flowers.

>But now I see that it
>is ready to bloom with about what looks to be about 5 flowers.  And in the 
>interim the plant really flourished as far as becoming more leafy.

Good signs!

>In watering the plant, I use Jobe's Liquid Sunsplash African Violet Food 
>1-3-2.  It seems to do alright with it. 

Seems good, as long as you follow directions. Don't overapply.

>I have one of those self-watering pots (it has a reservoir in the bottom 
>for watering).

These things and things like them concentrate salt because the water is
evaporated and any salt in the water you keep adding gets concentrated in the
soil. Salt is deadly to almost all plants. Use distilled or rain water or
flush the plant by applying water to the top such that it runs out the
bottom every month or so. It all depends on how salty your water is, if it
tastes salty, forget it. Humans need salt, for plants it is poison. Also,
the fertilizer is salty. If you notice the plant degrading after 6 months or
a year, suspect salt. To flush the salt, place the whole thing in a bucket
of distilled water or rain water.

>I'd appreciate any more helpful hints and tips to keep this plant healthy
>and lively looking =)

Seems like you're doing good. They like windows with eastern exposures. If
you'd like to experiment, remove a big leaf and place it in soil in another
pot and cover it with plastic, it will probably root and you will get
another plant, then you can experiment with a non self watering container
that you add water to once a week or so when the soil drys or you notice the
plant wilting slightly. See if the plant that gets cycles of water and drought
does better than the one that is always watered by the self watering container.
I suspect you will find that it does, but it all depends on how you water and
what the humidity and temperature is, and probably the phase of the moon also.

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: jill@cray.com (Jill McAllister)
Subject: Re: buddleia
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Distribution: na
Date: 18 Aug 92 11:48:21 CDT

Okay, there was an article here when I posted it!  Let's try again:

Does anyone know how big a buddleia will get in USDA zone 4?  My catalog
says they're only hardy to zone 5, but a "master gardener" friend says
that since I live in the city, if I mulch it well, it will just die back
to the ground and regrow every summer.  I just planted it last spring.
It only got about 3 feet tall, but it bloomed this summer.  (Beautiful!)
But I saw some bushes in early summer in the Lake Harriet Rock Garden
(Minneapolis) that looked like my buddleia (before blooming time) that
were about 5-6 feet tall.  And my friend lives in Milwaukee (zone 5),
so he doesn't have direct experience with them in zone 4.  I'm trying
to find attractive, tall, flowering plants to line a fence to hide an
ugly neighbor's yard.  (Don't tell me to get lilacs, please; they do
so well up here that they are in every single yard, and I'm tired of
looking at them.)

Thanks,

Jill McAllister
(jill@cray.com)
From: ceci@lysator.liu.se (Ceci Henningsson)
Subject: Rembrandt tulips
Keywords: tulip, virus
Organization: Lysator Academic Computer Society, Linkoping University, Sweden
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 1992 17:55:15 GMT

One of the sure autumn signs is starting to show up -- the bulb
catalogues. In one of them I saw a very attractive tulip, which I am
considering to plant this year. The name of the tulip is Rembrandt. It
is red with yellow stripes. The stripes are thin, irregular and
feathery, like this:

\| \|/ )
 |  | /
 \  ()
  ( )

About a year ago I borrowed a book about English gardens from the
library. In that book there was a picture of a tulip with exactly this
kind of stripes. If I remember correctly, the book said that the
stripes came from a highly contagious virus and that the striped
tulips had been popular in north-western Europe during the eighteenth
century. Unfortunately it turned out that it was extremely difficult
to see to that normal tulips weren't infected with the stripe virus
and that was the reason that they were no longer sold. The picture was
a painting from the eighteenth century.

Now, my question is, is this the same kind of tulip and will my other
tulips become striped too, if I introduce Rembrandt into my garden?
Unfortunately the book I am referring isn't in at the library. Does
anyone in net.land know more about these beautiful tulips?

Tulip regards,

--Ceci

--
=====ceci@lysator.liu.se===========================================
Vad bryr vi oss om tsaren, se staren, se staren! EA Karlfeldt
(What do we care about the tsar, see the starling, the starling!)
===================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: scheiman@sceng.UB.Com (Scott Scheiman)
Subject: How can I get rid of wild grass?
Organization: Ungermann-Bass
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 22:59:41 GMT

I've just finished clearing a plot of weeds and wild grasses.  I'm 
still thinking about what I want to put there, but even before I decide 
it seems I had better deal with the problem I'll have no matter what I 
decide (unless I decide to plant weeds and wild grasses).... 

The ground is littered with wild grass seeds, so no matter what I 
decide to plant, it looks like I'll also get lots of wild grass.  This 
sounds like a weeding nightmare to me, so I'd just as soon find a way 
of minimizing the amount of it that will germinate.

I'd really appreciate suggestions what to do.  My preferences go to 
things that are firstly safe and non-toxic, and secondly easy. 

Thanks!

P.S.  Friends and I have already come up with three ideas:

1)  Dig the seeds under--turn the dirt so most of them are buried deep 
    enough they won't succeed.  Not easy.
2)  Cover the ground with opaque plastic.  I presume this would starve 
    sprouted grass of light and kill it, but I have no idea how long 
    I'd need to do this.  Probably not quick.
3)  Cover the area semi-permanently with tar paper or the like.  This 
    approach assumes an answer to "what to plant there":  scattered 
    decorative plants such as low spreading bushes.  The paper would be 
    left "permanently" (as long as it would last), covered with wood 
    chips or the like (for decoration), and holes cut away to plant 
    things.  This is interesting, but limits the possibilities.
Special Guest .Signature:
    "Irresponsibility is not a sickness--it's an art!"    -- R. Steele

"Ribbit!"         Scott Scheiman   (408) 562-5572        Ungermann-Bass, Inc.
  ` /\/@\/@\/\                                       2560 Mission College Blvd.
   _\ \ -  / /_        Scheiman@sceng.UB.Com        Santa Clara, CA  95052-8030
From: gene@shallot.ots.utexas.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: horseradish>>THANKS
Keywords: horseradish
Date: 21 Aug 92 16:57:12 GMT

Wow, 
   I got several responses to my horseradish questions. Thanks to all  
and to those who offered to get rid...ah... send me some of their  
horseradish roots. I bought a 7 inch section of root at a local grocery  
store and put it in a 10 gallon pot. 
   Thanks for the warning about it tending to stay in the area it was  
planted, forever! I'll find a nice secluded spot in my yard to plant it  
once it starts growing.

         Take care,  Gene Titus.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: elefante@flash.ATC.Olivetti.Com (GUEST Luigi Elefante)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: HELP ME! California Redwood
Keywords: sequoia, redwood
Date: 14 Aug 92 15:41:09 GMT

In my article I wrote:

> Thanks everybody for the advices,
> 
> but I've another question:
> my plants are grown in big pots, now I'd like to plant them in the soil..
> I think the best period seems october before snow because I'll plant
> in a locality 26 feet high on Italian Alps.
> I'd like to know book titles about the argument.
> 
> Could anyone help me?
> 
> Best Regards,
> 
> Massimo Barontini
> ITALY: maxb@king.ICO.Olivetti.Com
> USA: elefante@flash.ATC.Olivetti.Com

the locality is 2600 feet (~800 metres) high!!!

I have another information about: I bought the plants in a test tube in
Big Basin State Park (near Santa Cruz) like these sold in Sequoia National
Park and in Yosemite. Do anyone know what kind of plants are these?

 Best Regards,
 
 Massimo Barontini
 ITALY: maxb@king.ICO.Olivetti.Com
 USA: elefante@flash.ATC.Olivetti.Com

p.s. Sorry for my mistake and my bad English.
From: sweiger@sequent.com (Mark Sweiger)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: HELP ME! California Sierra Redwood (Sequoia Giganteum)
Keywords: redwood, sequoia
Date: 13 Aug 92 18:43:02 GMT
Article-I.D.: sequent.1992Aug13.184302.11877
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems Inc.

In article <55684@olivea.atc.olivetti.com> elefante@flash.ATC.Olivetti.Com (GUEST Luigi Elefante) writes:
>Hi,
>
>in 1989 I bought two plants of sequoia at Big Basin Redwoods State Park;
>now this plants (3 feet and 5 feet) are in my garden in Italy.
>Anyone could help to find books and documentation to grow them?
>If it's possible where I can order by mail books, etc.

Lots of water, and they like to grow in groups.  The roots are shallow and
should not be disturbed so don't till the soil around them.  They grow
very quickly if they are well cared for, up to 10 feet a year.  They cannot
take extreme freezing cold.  In Italy, I would guess that the main
difficulty would be lack of water.  In their natural habitat, rainfall
is usually around 50 inches per year.

>
>		Thanks in advance for Your attention,
>
>Best Regards,
>Massimo Barontini
>maxb@king.ICO.Olivetti.Com


-- 
phone: (503)578-4329    fax: (503)578-5730   internet: sweiger@sequent.com