HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Power Wet Sharpeners
Date: 10 Oct 92 00:54:09 GMT
Organization: University of Arizona UNIX Users Group

In article <1992Oct9.163539.16270@schbbs.mot.com> RYLV80@waccvm.corp.mot.com (William Mohrman) writes:
>
>Well, I have learned a lot about sharpening long blades...
>The Makita unit is excellent.  But...  You have to develop
>a skill and be very careful of what you are doing.  The trick
>I found to a straight blade is a smooth stroke and consistant
>downward pressure.  You will need to check the edge with a very
>very very straight edge every few strokes.  You will quickly
>learn how to "spot sharpen" to even up the blade edge.

I have the Delta wet sharp machine. It is more western traditional, in 
that it uses the edge of the wheel (I think the Makita uses the 
face?)  It uses a 200-something (280?) grit wheel.  I use the
same kind of tricks as above, and get a very good edge.  I use a
cloth honing wheel with tripoli to get the final razor edge.
I've sharpened my 12" Delta planer blades on this, with good
results.

I've never used both, so I can't compare.
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Original_To:  BITNET%"woodwork@ipfwvm"
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 12 Oct 1992 14:14:00 CDT
From:         JM01@SWTEXAS.BITNET
Subject:      nailing w/o splitting

I'm getting ready to nail some 3/4" lattice onto the base of my deck--each
slat is 3/8" thick.  However, I'm a little worried about splitting the lattice
by hammering the nails through.  I've seen folks dull the tips of nails by
whacking them a couple times with a hammer, before driving them into narrow
boards, to avoid splitting.  Does this really do any good?  Does dulling the
tip cause the nail to crush wood fibers as it's driven, instead of spreading
them apart?  Is there any type of nail that would be recommended for nailing
up this lattice--perhaps something that's less likely to split the wood, and
is somewhat resistant to corrosion in the rain?

Thanks for any help.

Joe Meyer
From: rer@hpfcdc.fc.hp.com (Rob Robason)
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 15:28:05 GMT
Subject: Re: Miscellaneous Questions...
Organization: HP Fort Collins, Co.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

Thanks for all your responses here and via email.  You've all been very
helpful and I'm delighted to have found a valuable resource in this news
group.

Rob Robason
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Electric motor wiring.
Date: 15 Oct 92 16:44:42 GMT
Organization: LLNL

In article <1992Oct15.012057.1856@scic.intel.com>, hwilson@scic.intel.com (Howard Wilson) writes:
> 

> Here is basic data from the plate:
> 
> Single phase
> 230 Volt
> 3400 RPM @ 60Hz
> Approx 9 amps (continuous)
> 2 HP 
> 
The plate data look consistent.

> The sulplus store where I found these has a bunch of them (some
> which appear to be brand new and still packed in boxes) for $35
> each.  These are real honkers, about 50lb each and appear to be 
> very well built.

The weight looks about right for 2 Hp, too.
> 
> Question?  Upon examining these, there are six wires coming out and
> no obvious bulge on the outside containing a capacitor?  Any ideas
> how to go about hooking this up?

Six wires is about right for a dual voltage motor with a starting winding.
It is also right for a three phase motor.  Could be mislabeled.  Could
also be a multispeed motor and the windings change the pole count.
For $35, buy one, take it apart and trace the wiring, then publish
a diagram on the net and we'll give you more advice.  Don't forget to
ohmmeter the windings.  Don't be afraid to take it apart.  They go back
together.  Just remember the order you disassembled it in.

> I'm not too keen on doing this with 220 V
> and potentially turning it (and myself for that matter) into a
> heap of molten slag!!
> 
Once you make sure you aren't wired across an itty-bitty wire, your 20 A
circuit breaker will probably trip or lack of rotation will convince you
to disconnect before any serious faults occur.  Just stay clear, plug it
in and disconnect quickly, and view the results.  A properly connected
motor will start immediately and an improperly connected motor will hum
and wait for Godot while rapidly (but not instantaneously) getting hot.
Any serious misconnection will trip your breaker.  That's from EE postgrad
hard knocks on the job, a course not often taught in Academia.

If it starts, monitor the current.  Should be 3 - 6 amps no load and rise
to 9 amps as you put drag on the shaft.  If that works ok and the motor
runs cool, you're there.

G.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Delta contractor's saw
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: rec.woodworking
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 92 15:13:38 GMT

In article <MFB.92Oct6094921@metropolis.super.org> mfb@metropolis.super.org (Michael F. Bridgland) writes:

>I know what to do about the fence, but what about replacing the blade
>guard and aligning the blade? Is there a good aftermarket blade guard?
>Does anyone know how to align the blade parallel to the table slots?

If you don't find a guard you like, I would recommend a combination of a
set of "yellow wheels" as an anti-kickback measure and fingerboards and
push sticks to allow you to keep your hands away from the blade. The "Dubby"
replacement for a miter gauge (by Inline Industries) is also a big help.

None of this will prevent you from slapping your hand down on the blade,
of course.

patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | "Under Consideration": We never heard of it.
George Patterson -  | "Under Active Consideration": We're searching the
                    |    files for it.
                    |         Kelvin Throop - The Management Dictionary
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Thu, 15 Oct 1992 20:35:20 EST
From:         FABY000 <FABY@NMUMUS.BITNET>
Subject:      Dado Blades?

I bought a dado set with my Delta conntractor saw.  The Delta dado was
over $100 but it works well for me.  Added to the cost of the dado set
was a special insert for the saw.  The dado set was carbide tipped.
Roger Barry
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: RYLV80@waccvm.corp.mot.com (William Mohrman)
Subject: Re: Recommendations for random orbital sander
Organization: Motorola
Date: 9 Oct 1992 13:40:21 MST

>Does anyone have any recommendations for a good random orbital sander?
>
>Thanks,
>Gary


I have the bosch 5" and like it alot.  I really like the variable
speed, hook and loop fastening system, and the dust collection.

I am amazed at the versatility of RO sanders.  60 grit; you can remove
wood like it was a belt sander(with much better control). 240 grit-
put a swirl free polish on the wood if you wish.

Bill Mohrman
Motorola SPS
(They don't make sanders, so these opinions are my own.)
From: ekeller@aerie.CalStateLA.EDU (eddy keller)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Refinishing cedar chest
Date: 8 Oct 92 16:48:36 GMT
Reply-To: ekeller@calstatela.edu
Followup-To: rec.woodworking
Organization: ATS - CalState Los Angeles


I have inherited a cedar chest that was finished
with veneer.  I would like to remove this and allow
the cedar below to show. Is there any way to get this off?
Any recommendations on what to use and/or techniques are
welcomed.

-- 
***************************=================***********************************
eddy keller                                  (ekeller@calstatela.edu)
Phone: (213) 343-2717                  California State University, Los Angeles
***************************=================***********************************
From: cola@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (Ken Colasuonno)
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 17:17:57 GMT
Subject: Re: Attaching Stud Wall to Concrete
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking



That's Albuquerque..   (just trying to help)



Karl 

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: lfm@pgroup.com (Larry Meadows)
Subject: Re: Norm's Biscuit Joiner
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 03:39:37 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: The Portland Group, Portland, OR

[edited by me]

In article <Bw101B.8sB@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu> brown@venus.iucf.indiana.edu writes:
>In article <199210091556.AA09292@tuna.wang.com>, STEVE.BUSSELL@OFFICE.WANG.COM ("Steve Bussell") writes...
>>[...]  Wish I had the money for [an ELU] one,
>>but my Freud JS100 works just fine for
>>less than half the price.
>> 
>
> [...]
>But hey, I paid a hundred bucks and change for the JS100 and it'll do
>just fine!
>

I use the Porter cable, paid a little more several years ago & I'm very
pleased.  It also seems a lot quiter than the Freud.  Sorry, I don't
remember the model number right now.
-- 
Larry Meadows		The Portland Group
lfm@pgroup.com
From: ron@topaz.bds.com (Ron Natalie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Dado Blades?
Date: 16 Oct 1992 18:21:25 GMT
Organization: BDS Systems
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: topaz.bds.com


>        1. Stackers leave a better (easier to finish) bottom.
>


I keep hearing all this bull, from Stacker afficionados, and I don't believe
it.  Unless you're setting you data width to some huge size, I've never been
able to see any appreciable difference in the squareness of the wobble dado.
What I also don't see is the ridges caused by the outside blades from the
stacker set which are just as objectionable.

>        2. Stackers are much easier to set, and reset to a specific width
>           (e.g.: exactly 3/8").

As for setting them to a particular width, I may agree with the "reset" part,
but as far as setting goes, it's still a trial and error game with spacers
to get it right.  At least with my wobble, all I have to do is loosten the
nut and give it a slight squidge, rahter than taking all the random pieces
off the arbor to add spacers.

>        3. Stackers don't cause as much saw vibration or put as much strain
>           on the motor shaft.

I've never noticed any vibration from the wobble.

By the way, the wobble in question is a dirt cheap 7" Sears that came in a
special deal kit with a tapering jig, goggles, molding head and a few other
trinkets.

-Ron
From: bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Yep, wood does move!
Date: 8 Oct 92 22:02:39 GMT
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Distribution: na
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated


 writes
> OK, I'm convinced: wood moves. ...
> Why don't I see this happening on commercial cabinets?

One reason is that most commercial cabinets use plywood, particleboard,
and other man-made composite materials that are very stable.


> Is pine so much
> more susceptible to expansion than hardwoods? 

It depends somewhat on the particular species of pine. In "Understanding
Wood" Bruce Hoadley gives the tangential percentage change in Ponderosa
Pine as only 6.2%, whereas Cherry is 7.1%, Red Oak is 8.9%, and White Oak
is 10.5%. For comparison, MDF is rated at about 0.4%. 

It is also possible that the pine you used hadn't been properly dried.
This is common in stud lumber, for instance.


> Or is there another secret?

The big secret is to minimize cross-grain gluing areas. Breadboard
edges, which you mention, are tricky to do right. BTW, don't use
older episodes of the New Yankee Workshop as a guide - it took Norm a 
couple of seasons to learn this "secret," and even now I'm not
convinced that elongating some screw holes is going to be effective
given the way he snugs up the screws so tightly.

Finally, as Hoadley points out, if you restrict wood from expanding when 
it wants to, even if you don't split anything, when the wood goes to 
contract again, it will contract to much less than it was before 
expanding because you've permanently compressed the fibers. The result 
is permanent gaps.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
"And remember this - there's no more important safety rule than to wear
these: safety glasses."
From: apoyner@as.arizona.edu (Tony Poyner)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Grizzly Bandsaw
Date: 7 Oct 92 17:01:24 GMT
Reply-To: apoyner@as.arizona.edu
Organization: MMT Observatory, Univ.of Arizona

In article 28056@porthos.cc.bellcore.com, patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie) writes:
>In article <pea.718418618@spider.wri.com> pea@spider.wri.com (Bruce Pea) writes:
>
>>Can anyone tell me anything about Grizzly's bandsaws?
>
>Boy, did you just open Pandora's box!
>
>patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com

No kidding!

To save bandwidth, as an owner of a 16inch Griz bandsaw, I suggest that you
look elsewhere unless you are:
1. Into re-machining
2. More interested in trying to get the thing working than cutting wood
3. A masochist.
4. All of the above, in which case the Griz is excellent value for money.

Seriously, I'm **fairly** happy with mine, after doing a hell of a lot of
work on it, and NO, I would not do it again.

---
Tony Poyner                               apoyner@as.arizona.edu
Multiple Mirror Telescope Observatory     Tel   (602) 621-5185
Univ. of Arizona, Tucson, AZ 85721        Fax   (602) 670-5740
From: spelce@siri.llnl.gov (    Tom Spelce              )
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: experience w/Jet jointer
Date: 7 Oct 92 19:22:52 GMT
Distribution: na

John Wack recently posted regarding the Jet JJ6CS jointer. I  bought one last weekend
for much the same reasons he did, and have had much the same problems he did. I haven't
quite finished getting everything to work just right ... I'm still doing the filing and
readjusting he had to. I purchased an HTC rolling base and need to adjust some of the holes
in the attachment for it as well. 

While the price was right and all will probably work well in the end, I get a certain amount
of pleasure working with a good piece of machinery. I saw the $1000+ Powermatic and Delta's
earlier this week after I bought the Jet and definitely think they're worth the $$$. If the
Powermatic jointer is anything like my 66 table saw, it's a keeper !!!

Tom Spelce
From: ron@topaz.bds.com (Ron Natalie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: sawdust & glue
Date: 13 Oct 1992 15:12:41 GMT
Organization: BDS Systems
Distribution: rec
NNTP-Posting-Host: topaz.bds.com

>     I use standard yellow glue.  I have not tried to stain it, but I doubt
>     that it will take stain in the same way that raw wood would.  You might
>     have to stain the paste before application to get it to be the same color.

Change the MIGHT to WILL.  If you are going to stain the piece, you WILL have
to tint the filler first.  As anyone who inadvertently has left a glue smear
on a piece of wood can tell you, even though it's invisible to the naked eye
before staining, it won't stain and stands out like a sore thumb afterwards.

-Ron
From: armstrng@cs.dal.ca (Stan Armstrong)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: need help using a scraper (Safety note!!!)
Summary: Watch out for fire hazard.
Date: 8 Oct 92 21:30:45 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Math, Stats & CS, Dalhousie University, Halifax, NS, Canada

In article <1992Oct8.191750.18794@adobe.com> bennett@adobe.com writes:
>
>Here's a technique I learned from a recent FWW; it requires a stationary
>belt sander (or a portable clamped upside down):
>
Always be careful when you use a belt sander on steel. Remove the dust
bag and clean the sander of accumulated sawdust.

A couple of months ago I used my belt sander on a scraper without doing
this. Shortly, I smelled smoke and discover a one inch hole burned in
the bag. I emptied the bag onto our compost pile. An hour later my wife
had to go out back to extinguish a small fire in the compost pile.

I felt like the fool I was. I gladly paid for a new dust bag. It was
so much cheaper than a new house. :-)
-- 
Stan Armstrong. Religious Studies Dept, Saint Mary's University, Halifax, N.S.
Armstrong@husky1.stmarys.ca | att!clyde!watmath!water!dalcs!armstrng
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Thu, 8 Oct 1992 07:55:40 PDT
From:         "Jim Johnson 7-9535 (6518 TS/EN)" <jjohnson@EDWARDS-SCY.AF.MIL>
Subject:      Bees' Wax Furniture Polish
              at Oct 7, 92 2:57 pm

      Has anybody tried using Bees' Wax as a furniture polish.  It seems to
      me I read an article about preparing a compound of the wax and mineral
      spirits.  The wax is applied as usual and when the mineral spirits
      evaporate the wax is left.  I don't think that it hardens like carnuba
      wax does but is supposed to smell better.  One question is if the
      mixture has to be warmend up and if so how do you safely warm
      something flammable ?

      James Johnson
      Standard Disclaimer
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jw7348@norway.medtronic.com (Jeff Wilkinson)
Subject: Re: Hand Plane Question
Organization: Medtronic, Inc., Minneapolis, MN
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 14:57:07 GMT

In article <1992Oct5.222541.17094@hubcap.clemson.edu> walt@eng.clemson.edu writes:
>In article 4633@linus.mitre.org, jdobbs@mwunix (John Dobbs) writes: 
>>My understanding of the theory of operation of a jointer is that with a 
>>flat and level outfeed table, blades set at the same height as the outfeed 
>....
>register between the front edge and the back edge at an angle, which will give
>you a consistent cut over the length of the sole.  If the board is concave,
>you'll get  a deeper cut at the ends - if it's convex, a deeper cut in the
>middle.  If its flat, you'll get a even cut the whole way.  One pass won't
>make the board flat, but with each stroke you gradually flatten the board.
>...
>each pass with a hand plane simple increases the radius of arc in the board
>until it is negligible.  I suppose in theory it never gets flat, its just that
>the curvature is so slight you don't really care anymore.  Actually, this
>
>Of course, one nice thing about hand planes is you don't have to stroke the
>entire surface of the stock.  Once you know where the high parts are you can
>work on them until it is "mostly" flat, and then finish up with full length
>strokes.  If you are lucky enough to have a plane you can dedicate to that

This is all true to a point, but a significant amount of work with a
jointer plane (24" long) is done by varying the pressure and locations
of the strokes.  One _big_ advantage of hand jointing, is that the
boards can be made slightly concave. Then, when they are glued up,
there is increased pressure on the ends (caused by the narrower middle
being held together).  This counteracts the end grain's tendency to
change dimension as it gains and loses moisture.  Tage Frid recommends
holding the boards together, edge to edge, and trying to twist one
against the other.  If they twist, the boards are flat or convex.  If
the hold firmly, the are concave.  If you see much light between them,
you overdid it.

I have been jointing this way for several years now, and it works
great. Even though I generally use a lot of power tools, there is
still nothing as emotionally satisfying as using a plane.

Jeff
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: guy@slustl.slu.edu (Guy Smith)
Subject: Re: Paint shavers
Organization: Saint Louis University  Saint Louis, MO
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 18:53:07 GMT

In article <1bjrbgINNklu@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy) writes:
>
>Hello all!
>	I will need to repaint my 85 year old house soon, and I think that

>time.  I've seen ads in Old House Journal for a so-called paint shaver.  It
>looks sort of like a random-orbital sander, only it has three cutting blades
>on it that "shave" the paint off the wood.  The ad claims to safely remove
>1 sq. ft. of paint in 15 seconds.  It also claims to contain the chips in
>some kind of a vacuum system.
You will probably be working with lead based paint so you should probably
worry a bit about how well the system handles dust. As you describe it,
it sounds superior to abrasives at least. Chemical stripping is the best
for lead abatement and may even be required in some states (MA?). It is
also rather expensive (I got a quote several years ago for $1.50 to $2.00
per square foot for removing paint from brick). As far as effectiveness,
could you give us a bit more info. Are you working with clapboards or
what?
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 9 Oct 1992 10:25:00 EDT
From:         DAVID FARR <dfarr@ASRR.ARSUSDA.GOV>
Subject:      Holddown wheels - Unifence

Can you use holddown wheels with the Unifence?

Dave Farr   DFARR@ARSRR.ARSUSDA.GOV
From: rer@hpfcdc.fc.hp.com (Rob Robason)
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 16:01:06 GMT
Subject: Re: Attaching Stud Wall to Concrete
Organization: HP Fort Collins, Co.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

I did some remodeling in my basement a few (7) years ago and picked up
the Remington power hammer (uses .22 caliber blanks and special nails).
I used this to attach my walls to the concrete floor and was very
pleased with the result.  The one I bought is struck with a hammer; now
there is also a newer, trigger operated version, which I have not tried.
Mine was about $20.00, and I've seen them advertised recently for not
much more than that.

It's a fairly tedious process loading the nail and cartridge for each
shot, but for the small amount of nailing I did (probably not more than
50 nails) it was fine.  I also have used this tool for attaching studs
to the concrete basement wall with good success.

I strongly recommend eye and hearing protection using these tools.

Rob
From: kenm@daffy.cac.washington.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Comparisons of metalworking machinery
Date: 8 Oct 92 19:51:40 GMT
Organization: University of Washington, C&C

For woodworking machinery, the consensus (and my experience) is that
you can choose between (high end Delta, Powermatic, General) which
are good but expensive or (Jet, Grizzly, ....) which vary from good
to some assembly required to awful.

What are the corresponding choices for metalworking machinery? The
only brands I am aware of are Jet, Grizzly, and Enco. It seems to me
that metalworking machinery must be built to closer tolerances than
woodworking machinery. So, any advice or experience about small mill/
drills or lathes?

apologies: I would ask rec.metalworking if it existed
From: jjohnson@EDWARDS-SCY.AF.MIL (Jim Johnson 7-9535 (6518 TS/EN))
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bookcase design (It's baaaack!)
Date: 15 Oct 92 20:04:14 GMT
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-Mailer: ELM [version 2.2 PL0]
              at Oct 14, 92 5:35 pm


      I built bookcases about two years ago.  I used 3/4" red oak plywood
      that I bought in 4 X 8 foot panels.  I used the plywood for both the
      verticals at 8 foot lengths and the shelves at roughly 30 inches.  I
      did not have any trouble cutting the plywood to size.

	   1. Get two saw horses and lay down four 2x4x8s down with the
      plywood panel good side down.

	   2. Clamp a saw guide down at the proper distance from the edge
      and let go with a good circular saw.

      It did not take me more than 1/2 day to cut all the verticals for 4
      bookcases.

      I then used a router and guide to route dados that housed shelf
      hardware.  It went together rather well.  Additionally, I did not use
      face frames but rather covered the plywood with the iron on veneer.

      It is true that at least one mid length shelf must be secured to hold
      in the sides but placement can be at you discretion so that was not a
      problem with me.  My wife really loves them.

      James Johnson
      Standard Disclaimer