HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Tree Longevity
Date: 16 Dec 92 14:47:22 -0600
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

lejensen@iastate.edu (Linda E Jensen) writes:
> 
> We just moved into a house with some medium size trees.  Some of
> these trees don't look very well.  So we call a few tree services
> to come out to look at them and doctor them.  But all of them
> said that we should just cut them down... the trees are too old.
> 
> What is the longevity of willow trees, and other small to medium
> size tree?  

Linda, willows and soft maples and other trees that grow quickly
tend to die relatively soon (lifespans in the 15-25 yr range in
most cases).  They aren't my first choice for trees in residential
neighborhoods, but that's pretty much what the developers tend to
plant -- cheap and fast growing.

Since you're in Ames, you've got a couple of excellent and handy
resources.  The horticulture department runs HortLine, with a
full-time horticultural consultant to help gardeners with all 
sorts of plant-related questions-- free!.  Check the phone book (for
other Iowans: 800-262-2224).  When you want to start thinking about
replacement trees, wander over to the university bookstore and
pick up a copy of "trees of central campus", a map to the mature
specimen trees on central campus ($0.50 last time I looked).  And 
stop over at Publications Distribution Office, over by the warehouse, 
behind Molecular Biology, and pick up "Landscape Plants of Iowa", which 
will cost you a couple of bucks and save you LOTS of time and headaches.

Kay Klier  (ISU alumna)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: kathleen@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Kathleen Much)
Subject: Re: seeking shrub rose "Golden Wings"
Organization: Center for Advanced Study in the Behavioral Sciences
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 19:32:28 GMT

In article <1992Dec10.224331.99630@watson.ibm.com> sundare@watson.ibm.com (C. Sundaresan) writes:
>The source I heard about last year, Country Bloomers, moved to Kansas and
>won't be supplying it for at least another year.  Would anyone receiving
>rose catalogs please let me know who else stocks it? Golden Wings is noted
>for being single, controlled in habit, a nice shade of yellow, and able
>to tolerate some shade.  If only I could find it somewhere....

It's in the 1992-93 catalog of Heirloom Old Garden Roses, p. 60,
number SH186, price $7.95.
Address:
24062 NE Riverside Dr.
St. Paul, OR  97137
Phone: (503) 538-1576
The catalog is $5, so I'd suggest phoning in an order.


-- 
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Kathleen Much, Editor		|E-mail: kathleen@casbs.stanford.EDU
CASBS, 202 Junipero Serra Blvd.	|Phone: (415) 321-2052
Stanford, CA  94305		|Fax: (415) 321-1192
From: br105@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey A. Del Col)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Prairie Projects
Date: 15 Dec 1992 01:50:46 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: br105@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey A. Del Col)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


Anyone interested in growing prairie plants should get in touch with the
folks in charge of the Prairie Project at Fermilab (Fermi National
Accelerator Laboratory--yeah, the particle accelerator).  They have
established a miniature prairie in the center of the 1 mile diameter
accelerator ring.  When I visited there several years ago they had 
numerous booklets about prairie plants etc.  Give them a call--they should
be reachable through Chicago information.  (I was there to hear a lecture
by P.A.M. Dirac, one of the last of the big guns who formulated quantum
physics--the Prairie Project was infinitely more comprehensible:-)

J. Del Col 
-- 
Jeff Del Col      *   DECONSTRUCTION--- the critical method invented      
A-B College       *                      by Procrustes  
Philippi, WV      *                             
                  *
From: hartman@das.harvard.edu (Anthony Hartman)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Seeds
Date: 15 Dec 92 16:50:38 GMT
Article-I.D.: das.1992Dec15.165038.17676
Distribution: na
Organization: Aiken Computation Lab, Harvard University

Has anyone had experience growing Tillandsia from seed? I saw a 
Victory Garden show a year or so ago in which I believe that they
grew them on screens in the greenhouse.  Would  putting them on a
small piece of screen over a flower pot and keeping it moist
in a plastic bag work?  It seems that mold might be a problem.

--
Tony Hartman
hartman@harvard.harvard.edu
From: dmiller@theory.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Xmas wish list
Date: 18 Dec 92 19:40:36 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Laboratory for Computer Science, MIT

Just to put in my oar on the Xmas wish list thread:

I would like not two English gardeners but one Japanese gardener! I'd also 
like some hummingbirds for my garden. (I've been trying to lure them with 
flowers and feeders for 7 years!)

--Jill

--
A. Richard & Jill A. Miller            | Miller Microcomputer Services |
InterNet: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu       | 61 Lake Shore Road            |
Voice: 508/653-6136, 9am-9pm EasternTZ | Natick, MA 01760-2099, USA    | 
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: ramirez@julia.math.ucla.edu (Alice Ramirez)
Subject: veggies to grow in a winter balcony garden-suggestions
Organization: UCLA Mathematics Department
Distribution: ca
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 92 02:05:58 GMT

Nancy in San Diego asked what would work for growing in pots
on a patio that doesn't get full sunlight, specifically mentioning
winter type plants.  May I suggest:

Lettuce (you'll never be satisfied with storebought once you've made 
    salads with picked-young homegrown.  Lettuce grows better in winter
    in So. Cal than in summer. I seem to recall reading that 6" deep pots
    are adequate.

Onions- the easy way is to buy sets.  Grow them among or near the lettuce
    for some pest control.

Garlic

Ruby chard grows well in a So.Cal winter and looks beautiful.

Nasturtiums.  Pretty flowers, all parts edible.  Toss into mixed green
  salads.

Fennel.  This grows large so you'll probably need to transplant into a
larger pot once it starts to grow.  If you get a bulb, enjoy.  It is
a crisp, licorace-tasting food.

I have grown all of the above in the shady side of my yard, intermingled
with the herbs.

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: ramirez@julia.math.ucla.edu (Alice Ramirez)
Subject: Quail Gardens
Organization: UCLA Mathematics Department
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 92 05:11:06 GMT

I have to second an earlier poster's recommendation for visiting
Quail Gardens in Encinitas.  It's truly a wonderful place.
I don't know about its bamboo collection, but what it has that really
interests me is the largest collection of subtropical fruiting
plants in Calif. if not in the entire U.S.  A delightful place.

And their gift shop, especially the outdoor part where the plants are 
sold, is well worth the visit.

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: asente@adobe.com (A Usenet Pal)
Subject: Re: Bird food (Was: ... feeding bluejays)
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 20:34:09 GMT

Our hummingbirds really love Mexican sage (and so do I!)

__   -paul asente
\/     asente@adobe.com   ...decwrl!adobe!asente   moo-bear@cs.stanford.edu
						
It is painful to have epithets flung at you when all you're trying
to do is have a life.				-Jack Carroll
From: mboom@ntg.com (Mike Boom)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Chantarelles
Keywords: chantarelle, mushroom
Date: 15 Dec 92 03:40:08 GMT
Organization: New Technologies Group, Inc.  Palo Alto CA

Cecilia Henningsson writes:

>A friend and I were discussing chantarelles when we came to wonder
>whether it is possible to grow chantarelles at home. I have heard that
>they live in some kind of symbiosis with the roots of pine trees, and
>that that would make it hard to grow them indoors. My friend has a
>garden with four pine trees, so if the lack of pine roots is the only
>thing barring people from growing chantarelles, that isn't a problem.
>Does anyone out there know?

I don't know how to grow chanterelles at home, but I can tell you a few
of the reasons why commercial mushroom cultivators haven't been able to
grow chanterelles (which is why they're priced so high and are hard to
get--they have to be picked wild).

1. The chanterelle is a mycorhizal mushroom, which means that the mycelium
that produced it must be intertwined with the rootlets of a friendly tree.
That tree varies in species from area to area.  Here in California, the
chanterelle prefers live oak.  In Sweden it sounds like it prefers pine
trees.  The mycelium won't thrive and fruit mushrooms unless it finds
the kind of tree it likes.

2. Other mycorhizal fungi may already inhabit the root system of a tree and
prevent the chanterelle mycelium from starting there.  (It has to start
from a very tiny spore, and can't begin to compete until it reaches a
certain size.)

3. Many mushroom species need very specific soil acidity, moisture, and food
content to thrive, and on top of that, need just the right cycle of warmth
and cold to trigger fruiting.  I believe chanterelles need some kind of
cool snap to start fruiting (just from my observations around here).

4. Mushrooms are just outright capricious!  They just grow when they want
to and confound those of us that try to find rhyme or reason for their
growth.  That's what makes them fascinating to study.  When some answers
are found, then we may be able to buy cultivated chanterelles, porcini,
and morelles.  In the meantime, we have to depend on the wild mycelium
to find the right conditions and present us with their fruiting.

I know that some farmers are trying to cultivate truffles by growing sapling
trees in a sterile environment, innoculating their roots with truffle
mycelium, then planting them and waiting for 15-20 years.  I don't know
what kind of success they've had, but it might also be a technique for
growing chanterelles.  You have to be quite patient, though!  Good luck.

Mike Boom
Toxic Screen Dumps, Inc. (a non-subsidiary of New Technologies Group)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: pharvey@quack.sac.ca.us (Paul Harvey)
Subject: Re: Potted vegetables, ideas needed.
Organization: The Duck Pond public unix: +1 408 249 9630, log in as 'guest'.
Date: 18 Dec 1992 18:48:45 UTC

In article <BzFHG7.1D9@dale.cts.com> npm@dale.cts.com (Nancy Milligan) writes:
>Does anyone know if it's feasible to grow potatos in a pot?  That might
>be kind of fun.

Yes. They grow quite well in pots and fine potting soil. The trick to
growing potatoes is to keep mounding up the soil around them as they
grow, meaning you keep adding soil and burying the plant as it grows
except for the top couple of leaves. The potatoes are formed on the stem
underground. So, for potatoes you'll need a tall pot. A trash can works
well, but smaller containers will do also.
From: Bert_-_Raphael@cup.portal.com
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Apple Tree - Spencer
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 92 22:31:21 PST
Organization: The Portal System (TM)

Does anyone know where I can get a bare root Spencer tree?
An old friend, Ted Brain, said this is a great apple for the
San Francisco Bay area, since it doesn't need much winter
chill or high summer heat and tastes great.

Anne Raphael
From: mnb@voodoo.boeing.com (Mike Burr)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Chantarelles
Keywords: chantarelle, mushroom
Date: 14 Dec 92 21:58:18 GMT
Organization: Boeing Graphics project, Bellevue WA

In article <2105@lysator.liu.se> ceci@lysator.liu.se (Cecilia Henningsson) writes:
>A friend and I were discussing chantarelles when we came to wonder
>whether it is possible to grow chantarelles at home. I have heard that
>they live in some kind of symbiosis with the roots of pine trees, and
>that that would make it hard to grow them indoors. My friend has a
>garden with four pine trees, so if the lack of pine roots is the only
>thing barring people from growing chantarelles, that isn't a problem.
>Does anyone out there know?
>

I'm convienced that there must be more to it.  I tried to "seed" an 
appropriate area in my yard with fresh chantarelles that I collected and
never got anything to develope.  The developement of the mycelium must 
be a real hit and miss proposition.



-- 
Michael Burr  Boeing Computer Services, Bellevue WA
              Email:mnb@voodoo.ca.boeing.com
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: cl27111@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Christopher  Lindsey)
Subject: Re: Prairie Projects
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 21:08:07 GMT

	Check out the Ray Schulenberg prairie at the Morton Arboretum too...
It's now established itself to over 300 species of native prairie grasses
and forbs...

Chris

Christopher Lindsey -- Dept. of Landscape Architecture, Univ. of Illinois

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: pharvey@quack.sac.ca.us (Paul Harvey)
Subject: Re: calamondin orange
Organization: The Duck Pond public unix: +1 408 249 9630, log in as 'guest'.
Date: 15 Dec 1992 02:29:20 UTC

In article <1992Dec14.090341.196@janus.arc.ab.ca> thacker@rhea writes:
>Following the recent discussion on this newsgroup I purchased a 
>calamondin orange.  I see that in the nifty orange-coloured 
>directions they state that it is a hybrid orange.  Is this true?

Cornucopia (ISBN:0-9628087-0-9) lists it as X Citrofortunella mitis
meaning it is a cross of two different genera, something plants aren't
supposed to do but they don't listen. The cross is a natural hydrid of
Citrus reticulata, the mandarin and some unknown Fortunella species, the
kumquat.

>If it is a hybrid then it won't produce "true" from seed.

Citrus set some seed that are indentical to the parent, in violation of
the rule that hybrids aren't supposed to come true from their seed. I
told you they don't listen.

>What are
>the parents ie would I get other dwarf orange varieties from seed or
>is there a full size orange lurking in its genes? 

Who knows, it's a crazy family of plants.

>Should I resort to cuttings if I feel the need for more dwarf oranges,
>and how easily do cuttings root?

I've never tried to propagate citrus from cuttings. You should try and
let us know what happens. They grow readily from seeds, most plants are
budded varieties or I would guess tissue culture.
From: samantha@vaxc.cc.monash.edu.au
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Any experience with Crook Necked Pumpkins ?? Help !!
Date: 17 Dec 92 13:16:02 +1100
Organization: Computer Centre, Monash University, Australia

Hi,
   This spring I planted White Bush Squash seeds (Defender Brand) and they
have grown into something else. The  closest looking thing that Defender sells
is Early Crook Necked Bush Pumpkins.  This thing don't look like pumpkins at
all but rather like deformed zuchinis. I havn't got a clue what to do with
these other  than pull them out.

  Has anyone grown them before ?
  When do you pick them ?
  How do you eat them ?

Thanks in advance
Samantha Lane
samantha@vaxc.cc.monash.edu.au
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: cl27111@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Christopher  Lindsey)
Subject: Re: tall grass prairie
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 04:39:20 GMT

thacker@rhea writes:

>Last spring I started rows of Indian Grass (Sorghastrum nutans) and
>Big Bluestem grass (Andropogon gerardi) in my vegetable garden.  They
>only reached about 6 inches high by the end of the year, but I 
>understand they could be 6 feet high in several years.

>My problem is this.  I want to dig a bed for them and include a 
>number of prairie wildflowers (and I may cheat and add daffodils for
>spring colour), but I don't know the growth habits of the grasses.
>Do they form clumps or do they form a sod?  How quickly do they fill
>out?  If they grow as clumps I can introduce wildflower seeds between 
>the clumps, but if they form a sod quickly I would be better off to
>plant established perrenial wildflowers rather than seeds.  While the
>seed heads can reach six feet high or so, how tall is the actual dense
>leafy growth?  Presumably any wildflower that can grow above the leaf
>cover will have enough light to flower among the heads of the grasses.

	They will grow in clumps...  They also stay relatively short during
the early months (prior to August), and will then shoot up 4' or so...  
So, you can plant low-growing flowering forbs within the area and they should
get enough sunlight...  I'd recommend Pasque flower if you want early flowers,
or Prairie Buttercup for early yellow flowers...

Hope this helps...

Chris

Christopher Lindsey -- Dept. of Landscape Architecture, Univ. of Illinois

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: drmax@casbah.acns.nwu.edu (Marianna Max)
Subject: Re: Bird food (Was: ... feeding bluejays)
Organization: Northwestern University, Evanston Illinois.
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 04:07:47 GMT

In article <1992Dec14.145727.23636@spdc.ti.com> drogers@epcot.spdc.ti.com (Daty Rogers) writes:
>In article <JONA.92Dec13134614@calvin.ATT.COM> jona@whservd.att.com (Jon M. Allingham) writes:
>>
>>PS: anyone know what the hummingbird season is in NJ? I keep wanting
>>to put out a hummingbird feeder but really have no idea when they are
>>around.
>>--
>>Jon M. Allingham	(201)386-3637	AT&T Bell Laboratories (Whippany,NJ)
>>gummo!jona OR jona@gummo.att.com	WH 1F-224
>>
>     Try to find out what kinds of flowers attract hummingbirds in your
>area. Set out the feeders when these plants go into bloom. My grandmother
>also told me that hummers fly with the geese, so when the geese start flying 
>south pull the feeders down for winter. 

Heh :-), Here in NJ (ignore the header, I really am in NJ) the geese don't
fly south they just hang out on the lawns of the telephone and
pharmacuetacal companies all winter long.

PS. I have lots of cardinals but that may be because I throw food
(sunflower seeds, peanuts in the shell, cracked nuts, ect) on the ground
for the squirrels.

The jays seem to like the peanuts in the shell - I think they, like the
squirrels, hide the goodies that are not shelled. Jays seem to be able to
partially swallow one whole peanut and pick up another with the room that
is left in their beak - very greedy.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: gwv@eastrg2.cray.com (George Vandenberghe)
Subject: Re: Early Start Ideas
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 18 Dec 92 09:17:28 CST

    
In article <1992Dec18.132003.13774@kodak.kodak.com>, bryant@neural.Kodak.COM (Steve Bryant) writes:
|> Living in the great white north (Rochester NY) I am constantly
|> thinking of ways to get more out of my growing season. With a blanket
|> of snow a foot deep I am huddled in my house dreaming thoughts
|> of foot long carrots and basket ball sized cabbages... and how	
|> to get them with ten days of growing season.
|> 
|> I'd like to here from the friged netters what tricks they have learned
|> to eek out a few extra days of growing season, or any way out ideas
|> they would like to try.
|> 
|> Here's one to get things started. How about using a clear plastic
|> raft, half filled with water and then complete the job of blowing 
|> it up to make it rigid. Place the clear raft on some bricks over your
|> seed bed to make a kind of cold frame. 
|> 
|> I hope to hear some good ideas. Hell, give me your bad ideas I'm not
|> picky 

     In general  you need more heat.  You can get a quicker start
by warming your soil with clear plastic in spring and by using
clear plastic mulch until early summer.   The big problem with
clear plastic is WEEDS!!
      Clear plastic is most effective with sweetcorn and 
cucurbits in summer.   I also use it for broccoli and lettuce
in  Spring but  then I have to remove it  in  early May  here in
the DC area..   Black plastic is not a substitute, cold soils 
will warm MORE slowly under it.
     The other cheap way to get  1-2 weeks is to
use  seedling transplants rather than seeds.  I transplant EVERYTHING
except carrots and radishes.
      Last year,  I started peppers, eggplant and tomatoes under
clear plastic tents.  Results were mixed,.  I got  excellent very early peppers
and the eggplant got off to a fine start before flea beetles ate it up (an unrelated
problem)  but the tomatoes grew large and weak and did not set fruit until
I removed the plastic in late  May .    
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: kathleen@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Kathleen Much)
Subject: Rosa eglanteria source
Originator: kathleen@casbs.Stanford.EDU
Organization: Center for Advanced Study in the Behavioral Sciences
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 19:38:58 GMT

For the person who was looking for Rosa eglanteria (also called Rosa
rubiginosa, Sweetbriar rose, and eglantine):

Pickering Nurseries
670 Kingston Rd.
Pickering, Ontario 
L1V 1A6 Canada

1992-93 catalog, p. 51: Native to Europe. Scented foliage, especially
when wet. Very winter hardy, disease resistant. $8.00.
-- 
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Kathleen Much, Editor		|E-mail: kathleen@casbs.stanford.EDU
CASBS, 202 Junipero Serra Blvd.	|Phone: (415) 321-2052
Stanford, CA  94305		|Fax: (415) 321-1192
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: ceci@lysator.liu.se (Cecilia Henningsson)
Subject: Chantarelles
Keywords: chantarelle, mushroom
Organization: Lysator Academic Computer Society, Linkoping University, Sweden
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1992 17:53:15 GMT

A favourite mushroom of mine is the chantarelle. It has a very
pleasing buttery colour, is easy to collect in autumn and the flavour
is delicious. Unfortunately there are never enough of them, and they
are extremely expensive.

A friend and I were discussing chantarelles when we came to wonder
whether it is possible to grow chantarelles at home. I have heard that
they live in some kind of symbiosis with the roots of pine trees, and
that that would make it hard to grow them indoors. My friend has a
garden with four pine trees, so if the lack of pine roots is the only
thing barring people from growing chantarelles, that isn't a problem.
Does anyone out there know?

--Ceci
--
=====ceci@lysator.liu.se===========================================
"Vorbedingung des kuenstlerischen Schaffens ist nicht, ein Ereignis
 oder ein Motiv so "rein" anzuschauen, dass es auf das betrachtende
 Subjekt gar keine Wirkung hat." Hermann Leber: Aquarellieren lernen
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: awootten@slacktide.cv.nrao.edu (Al Wootten)
Subject: Re: Habenero Pepper problem?
Organization: nrao
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 14:56:19 GMT

Your habanero sounds like it is suffering from low humidity.  It might
do a bit better if you can increase the local humidity by putting the plant
on a water-filled tray of pebbles.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: awootten@slacktide.cv.nrao.edu (Al Wootten)
Subject: Re: WANTED: Disa seeds or seed sources
Organization: nrao
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 15:01:40 GMT

I obtained seed from the South African Botanical Society--fifteen free
packs of South African seeds come with a year's subscription.  Unfortunately
the Disa seeds were quite hard to grow.  This was twenty or more years ago,
but the instructions said that one should first ``get some soil from the base
of the common black wattle tree''.  The proteas did a little better, though
the instructions for one said to leave a fan blowing on the seedlings--certainly
a first for me.

I grew many strange and exotic plants, though the Disa never did come through.

I don't have the address, but I believe that if you write the society at
Kirstenbosch, South Africa the posting would probably get through.
From: jane@soave.swdc.stratus.com (Jane Beckman)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: How to keep deer out of my garden?
Date: 16 Dec 92 01:45:58 GMT
Organization: Stratus Computer, Inc., San Jose, CA

Motion detector lights will not work, if the deer are fairly
acclimated to civilization.  We had megawattage floodlights,
when I was growing up, and while switching them on caused the
deer to look up ("Huh? whazzat?), they then went peacefully
back to eating their now-illuminated dinner.
--
  Jilara   [jane@swdc.stratus.com]

"The field of pseudo-science hasn't progressed much in ten
years, except to gain access to the net." --from ca.earthquakes
Newsgroups: rec.gardens