HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: kcw@gvgdsd.GVG.TEK.COM (Kenneth C. Wunner)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Looking for a 12V vacuum pump
Date: 14 Sep 92 14:50:52 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Grass Valley Group, Grass Valley, CA
Originator: kcw@gvgdsd

I am looking for a 12V DC vacuum pump to install into my Jeep Cherokee.
The Jeep has vacuum activated front hubs and I occasionally "run out of
vacuum" while climbing some of the long grades around this part of the
state. The pump should be small and able to provide 15 to 20 inches of
vacuum at a moderate volume. I have checked the "vacuum" actuator and it
performs with in specs. I quess Jeep never expected that people would be
using 4WD for extended uphill travel at moderate speeds (30-35mph).

Any advice is welcome, please respond via Email or by posting to this
group.

Thanks in advance.

Ken
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: psanders@ll.mit.edu (Pete Sanders)
Subject: SB Chevy valve seals
Originator: psanders@ll.mit.edu (Pete Sanders)
Organization: MIT Lincoln Laboratory
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 92 16:40:56 GMT



>My 350 smokes upon startup (pulling through the guides).  I intend to
>install some type of seal:
>
>- anyone have experience with "plastic umbrella" vs. "teflon rings" - I
>have someone who can get me teflon seals that will interference fit over
>the guide (no machining), but I've also heard "the teflon jobs wipe off
>too much oil and your valves will go away" ??
>
>_ I intend to us an air compressor to keep the valves up while doing the
>replacement.  Assuming piston is at TDC (low-comp 8.5:1 motor) should
>I expect problems??


	A question, does replacing these valve seals do anything besides
stopping the smoke on cold starts? Are you going to gain any power back?
I believe these seals just keep the oil out of the combustion cylinder.

	I had a Chevy with a 267 small block and it smoked only on initial
cold starts. After it burned the oil that leaked through the seals when it 
was sitting, it didn't smoke and it had plenty of power.

	What I finally did was just drive it. It always ran excellent. So it
smoked a little when its was cold and burned a little oil, so what.

	I have rebuilt small blocks before and from what I remember you still
need to compress the valve springs to get at the seals. I know it is a lot 
easier remove the springs when the heads are off the engine. Doing this job
with the heads on the engine could be difficult (I could be wrong).

	If you really want to do this I would recommmend that you do the
easy job of removing the heads and have a motor shop install new seals for
you. They may even have some recommendations on which are the best seals to
use. The last engine I rebuilt (305ci) I had an engine shop rebuilt the heads.
I'm glad I decided to have them done because the engine runs great and not
a puff of smoke ever.
From: Corwin Nichols <corwin@igc.apc.org>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Date: 08 Sep 92 21:00 PDT
Subject: looking for electric vehicle group
Nf-ID: #N:cdp:1449300001:000:346
Nf-From: cdp.UUCP!corwin    Sep  8 21:00:00 1992


I'm looking for a usenet group pertaining to electric vehicles.  My usenet
host doesn't currently have anything but perhaps its just not coming done
the pipe.  Sorry to ask in this group, but any suggestions?  Only one
knowledgable person need reply :-).  Please use mail as my site only keeps
a minimum of messages in this group.
corwin@igc.org

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty)
Subject: Re: Handbrakes /discbrakes
Organization: New York State Institute for Sebastian Cabot Studies
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 18:55:26 GMT

In article <3970065@hpsad.sad.hp.com> ggg@hpsad.sad.hp.com (Gary Goodlund) writes:
>Another solution which is used on some Porsches and on the Ferrari Mondials,
>is to have a small mechanically operated drum brake in the center of the 
>rear disc.  Since the grip required to stop a disc brake is substantially 
>more than that required for a drum, this is an effective solution.

this system has been available from Ate for a very long time (since the
mid-60s, at least) and works very well.  it appears on the early saab 99s
(much better than the nasty girling floating caliper that saab switched to
in 1975) and in Alfa Spiders and early Alfa GTVs beginning around 1967
(as i recall.)  i never really understood why people insisted on cooking
up outrageously complex disk brake calipers to supply handbrakes when
the disk/drum system worked reasonably well.

oh well,
  richard
-- 
richard welty                            518-393-7228
welty@cabot.balltown.cma.com
  ``if you can read this, mario, you're too close''
    -- bumper sticker seen on a CART safety truck
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:12257 rec.autos.sport:9601 rec.autos:21489
From: bdl@cruiser.uucp (Bob Lombard)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.sport,rec.autos
Subject: Re: MAIL-ORDER COMPANIES FOR AUTO PARTS
Keywords: mail order
Date: Sat, 05 Sep 92 08:29:03 PDT
Distribution: na
Organization: what? me organized? no way!

roneill@ac.dal.ca writes:

> I want to purchase an overhaul kit and some other parts
> by mail order from the U.S.
 
> Do any of the netters have any other favorite mail-order
> places?  I am on the East Coast and would prefer if there
> was something closer, and reputable.

I have used and had good luck with SUMMIT RACING in Akron Ohio.
Their numbers are: orders - 216-798-9440
                   help/? - 216-798-4272

No or limited european or japanese parts, tho.
Good luck.



*****************************************************************
* Bob Lombard ||  bdl@cruiser.uucp  || 418 Village Center Drive *
*             ||                    || Encinitas, Ca. 92024     *
*  |~~|_                                                        *
*  |    :           "If it ain't green and it ain't old,        *
*  '0-0-''..../\..   .. it ain't my truck                       *
*****************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: lester@naomi.b23b.ingr.com (Les Bartel)
Subject: Re: Dirty oil after change?
Keywords: oil changes
Reply-To: lester@naomi.b23b.ingr.com
Organization: Dazix, An Intergraph Company
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 20:53:55 GMT

In article <1992Sep10.165930.4262@porthos.cc.bellcore.com>, mf@dancer.uucp (24241-fusco) writes:
|> Just a thought:  
|> 	I just noticed on my new ('89) 5.0 Mustang that
|> there are 2 oil drain plugs.  One in the back which 
|> drains most of the oil but there is one forward that
|> also drains the last 1/2 quart or so.  I didn't realize

Ditto for the 81 mustang 4.2 liter.  I was very concerned
after draining only 1/2 to 1 quart.  (I saw the front plug
first.)  "What!!!!  I check the oil regularly, and it has
never been more than 1/2 quart low!!!!

BTW, has anyone else had their 4.2 liter engine eat main
bearings for lunch?  I had to replace mine every 30-35K
miles (symptom - low oil pressure).  Cause: bad line boring
(crankshaft bearings don't line up).

 - les

-- 
Les Bartel			lester@naomi.b23b.ingr.com
Dazix, An Intergraph Company	uunet!ingr!b23b!naomi!lester
Huntsville, AL			(205) 730-8537

There are three kinds of people in the world:
Those who can count, and those who can't.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mf@dancer.uucp (24241-fusco)
Subject: Re: Valve covers & Mobil 1
Organization: On the Road
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 92 16:41:56 GMT

In article <1992Sep9.150308.25562@dsd.es.com> sbender@navajo.dsd.es.com (Steve Bender) writes:
>.......
>Moreover, inspection of the bottom-end revealed no measurable wear.
>
>I do not know if this is a testimony of Mobil-1 oil, the effectiveness
>of the oil-pump/filter, or this engine's longevity; but the combination
>appears to leave good results.
>-- 
	I was never a believer in synthetic oil, rather only in frequent 
oil changes.  Recently, the friend who bought my '85 4_runner with 151K 
on it had the valve covers removed (very clean, mechanic was amazed), 
and also a compression check (also great).  
I only changed the oil/filter every 3-4K (with mainly Castrol).

just some other data.........

mf
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: nataraja@rtsg.mot.com (Kumaravel Natarajan)
Subject: Re: Motor oil is motor oil... or is it?
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 21:38:55 GMT

chucko@kronos.arc.nasa.gov (Chuck Fry) writes:

>FACT: Synthetic oils really are better than petroleum-based oils.
>They flow better at low temperatures, reduce friction, better protect
>against wear, and withstand heat better because the molecules are
>specifically designed for the application.

>FALLACY: You can't run much longer oil change intervals with
>synthetics, because the contamination builds up at the same rate
>regardless of oil type or brand.

>MY OPINION: Most anyone who changes their oil every 3K miles or 3
>months tends to get long engine life, whether it's dinosaur oil or
>synthetic.  I would say that changing oil frequently is much more
>important than using The Right Brand.  If synthetic oil costs 3x what
>dinosaur oil does, and price is an issue for you, change dinosaur oil
>frequently.  If you can afford to change synthetics every 3K, do it!

QUESTION: Is it bad to go from one kind of oil (say crude to
Mobile 1)  How about mixing the two?  The back of the Mobile 1
bottle says it's "fully compatible with conventional oils".
Anyone know?


-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Vel Natarajan                    Motorola, Inc.
nataraja@rtsg.mot.com            Cellular Infrastructure Group
                                 Arlington Heights, IL
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: chucko@kronos.arc.nasa.gov (Chuck Fry)
Subject: Re: Check Engine light comes on
Organization: Recom Technologies, NASA Ames Research Center, Moffett Field, CA
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 23:37:11 GMT


My roommate's Terrible Taurus had a Check Engine light problem, which
also manifested itself as stumbling etc.  It turned out to be a
worn-out throttle position sensor.  Check this if your Tempo has the
EEC-IV engine computer (typically all fuel-injected Fords after '86?
have it).
 -- Chuck Fry  Chucko@charon.arc.nasa.gov

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: iseman@ravel.udel.edu (Stephen Early)
Subject: Re: experiences with Maaco
Organization: University of Delaware
Distribution: dc
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 01:55:50 GMT

In article <1992Sep10.162910.22025@geac.com> billb@geac.com (Bill Bain) writes:
>In article <24768@oasys.dt.navy.mil> jeanthea@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Mark Jeantheau) writes:
>>Anybody have any experiences, good or bad, with Maaco Autobody? I'm

I had my VW painted by Maaco. They painted the car, the rubber trim, the chrome
door handles, the seats, you name it.  The job *looked* good but the paint was
so soft (even 2 years later) that it chipped if you looked at it wrong.  I
would not go to Maaco for any price, not even if it was free.

Steve
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dak@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu (David Kardelis- I am the NRA)
Subject: LEaf springs
Reply-To: dak@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu
Organization: High Energy Physics, University of Illinois, Urbana-Champaign
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 15:37:51 GMT

	Are replacing Leaf springs a do it yourself job or does it
require special tools. The leaf springs on my Jeep look shot. 
They are straight ------ as opposed to \____/. Anyway to check this 
for sure? Also what is an average price for getting springs rebent?
JC Whitneys has 4 new springs for about $350 so if it is a small difference
in price I'd rather go new.
						dave
==========================================================================
   David Kardelis		| I am the NRA-NRA Life
   Gradual Student in Physics   |
   Univ. of Ilinois		|	Looking for a new .SIG
   dak@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu	|
   217-333-0505			|
Not necessarily the views of the ISSC or the UI At UC
==========================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen)
Subject: Re: Supercharged vehicles
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Distribution: rec.autos, rec.autos.tech, rec.autos.sport
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 92 17:55:27 GMT

In article <BuDG3L.E52@acsu.buffalo.edu> v058l789@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (Ethan A Bowerman) writes:
>In article <1992Sep09.220337.4671@lobo.rmhs.colorado.edu>, seanr@lobo.rmhs.colorado.edu (Sean Reifschneider) writes...
>>Would an electronic clutch work for this?
>
>	Yes, an electronic clutch would work- but it would be prohibitivly
>expensive.  You can't have JUST a clutch- the clearances within the 
>supercharger are not adequate for much air/fuel mixture flow.  You would need
>a seperate intake path for when the 'charger isn't running.  

didn't the late MR2 supercharged have an electronic clutch
for the supercharger?
-teddy
From: koziarzw@lonex.rl.af.mil (Walter Koziarz)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Aftermarket turbo kits
Date: 13 Sep 92 15:38:03 GMT
Article-I.D.: lonex.1992Sep13.153803.13706
Organization: RL

In article <1992Sep10.153513.28109@spdc.ti.com> serafin@epcot.spdc.ti.com (Mike Serafin) writes:
>In article <BuC218.5oz@cup.hp.com> dhepner@cup.hp.com (Dan Hepner) writes:

>>>Ok, but where do I find a factory built turbocharged F250 4x4, 460ci, 5sp,
>>>pickup?

>>Buy a Dodge.


>If I wanted a diesel I would.

If you actually want to do *work* with the truck (a 3/4 ton with big-block
screams 'work-truck')  you'd be far wiser to get the Dodge with Cummins,
the gas-pig doesn't exist that is the equal of the Cummins 6BT engine...

Walt K., competive with a *stocker* in *supermodified, unlimited* at the
truck-pulls because it's my Dodge versus Chevies and Fords with gas-pig power
From: paul@howtek.UUCP (Paul Rothenberg)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Power Locks
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 92 14:48:35 EST
Organization: Howtek, Inc.
Reply-To: paul@howtek.UUCP (Paul Rothenberg)
X-Mailer: uAccess - Macintosh Release: 1.5v4

Here's a strange one that started just a few days ago:

I have an '85 S-10 Blazer w/ power locks.  The passenger door lock
cannot be unlocked using power central locking. I can power lock the
door with no problem. The driver side door is OK both ways. 

Is the problem just in wiring, or am I in for something bigger? Any
help is appreciated. 

===============================================
Paul M. Rothenberg

paul@howtek.uucp  -or-
decvax!fasfax!howtek!paul
From: maurice@hp-ptp.ptp.hp.com (Maurice Liang)
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 00:22:52 GMT
Subject: Taurus/Sable - Rough idle
Organization: HP Pacific Technology Park - Sunnyvale, Ca.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

 I have an '87 Mercury Sable with a 3.0 litre engine with 83k miles.

 When idling in gear, the rpm hunts up and down between 750 and 1000 rpm.
 Unfortunately, with the AC on, it can dip down to 500 rpm which causes
 the whole car to shudder.  

 I've tried removing the auxillary air inlet valve and cleaning it out but
 it hasn't helped.  Has anyone else had this problem and if so, what did 
 you do to cure it?

 Maurice
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 01:02:11 EDT
From: <QXF1@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: supercharged vehicle

In article <n097bt@ofa123.fidonet.org>, Larry.Mc.Donald@ofa123.fidonet.org says:
...
>get it's air full time. Under normal conditions, the engine would pull
>air through the venturi from an air cleaner located at the other end
>of the venturi. When the boost system was activated, a small jet
>located in the center of the venturi would be fed with the ***3000 psi***
>air and, due to air entrainment in the high pressure stream, cause a
>total boost of about 5 psi at suitable volume to the engine (test
>engine was a 265 chevy six).  When the tank was depleted, the
>compressor would 'kick' back in and refill the tank. This gave about
>15 seconds of boost to the engine with about 10kg extra weight added
>to the car .
>   Chevy extensively tested this system, had great luck with it,
>then buried it.
>
>                 The Venturi Pump:
>                     Cylindrical, of course.
>
> _______
>| A     |
>| i  C  |***********                      *******************
>| r  l  |           ********      ********
>|    e  |                   ******
>|    a  |     /=========                   5 psi boost to carb ==>
>|    n  |    ||       ^     ******
>|    e  |    ||     ********      ********
>|    r  |***********  ^                   *******************
>|_______|    ||       ^
>             ||       ^
>             ||       ^High pressure jet
>             ||
>             || <== 3000 psi from solenoid valve
>             ||
>
>
>
>
>
>... Larry Mc Donald, N6ZMB, Fullerton, Calif. (cough, cough)
>___ Blue Wave/QWK v2.10
>
>--- Maximus 2.00

I am not familiar with superchargers. But that 3000psi sure made me nervous. It
is about the pressure of those bottled gases that I deal everyday in my lab.
Something with this level of pressure should be handled very carefully. I
believe this tank will kill the driver like a bomb if the car crashes. Don't
forget the pressure inside the cyclinder is just about 200psi and four of them
will be enough to drive a several thousand pound car up to 85 mph.
From: augy@toz.buffalo.ny.us (Jeffrey Ehlinger)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Toyota Oil Filters Vs. The Others
Date: 10 Sep 92 00:05:24 GMT
Organization: The Tower of Zot - (716)691-3865


     Toyata tells me that only genuine Toyata Oil filters have a 
mechanism inside them that preventsall the oil from draining into the oil 
pan. This they claim, helps reduce engine wear on start-ups. I was 
thinking of switching over to Toyota Filters (1986 Chevy Nova) but my car 
has been running smoothly for 126k on Group 7 Filters.
     Has anybody used both, and notice a Diffrence. (I have treated the 
engine w/ Slick 50 at 100k). How does the mechanism work in the filter?

==========================================================================
** Mail to: Augy@toz.buffalo.ny.us        <<<Tower of Zot>>> Bflo, NY   **
** The bus came by and I got on, that's when it all began!              **
From: awatkins@mullara.met.unimelb.edu.au (Andrew B. Watkins)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Subaru problem.
Date: 11 Sep 92 07:45:30 GMT
Organization: University of Melbourne Dept of Meteorology

A friend of mine has a 82(?)Subaru 4wd station wagon that
is giving him some problem at the moment. 
The car starts fine, but after only a short time (when I observed
it was about thirty seconds) the engine dies. It then takes about
three or four more attempts before the engine will come to life.
(However in cold weather it can be a bit more temperamental.)
He tells me that after that it appears to be OK. He has had a 
tune (as well as a reconditioned starter motor - though I suspect this
is from giving it a hard time when the engine wouldnt fire) but it 
did not appear to cure the problem. I tend to think it is a distributor
type problem - but I cant put my finger on it. Does anyone out there
know what could be going wrong; any help would be most appreciated.

Andrew.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: leath@atlas.cs.upei.ca (Stephen Leath)
Subject: Car radio/cassette problem
Originator: leath@atlas.cs.upei.ca
Organization: University of Prince Edward Island
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 12:21:53 GMT

I have just installed a new radio/cassette into my van. It was working fine
until I played a cassette (which also played fine) when I popped out the
cassette the radio volume became weak and the seek and scan can't find any
stations they just go searching for ever. The cassette still plays fine.

Any suggestions!

Thanks in advance Steve.

Steve Leath    leath@upei.ca

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: billb@geac.com (Bill Bain)
Subject: Re: Recommendations re: 82/83/84 Mercedes....
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 16:21:02 GMT
Organization: Geac Computer Corporation

In article <715622639.F00002@blkcat.UUCP> Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory) writes:
> JG> For that much money you can get your self a nice digitally fuel 
> JG> injected
> JG> BMW 528e '82 or later. This car burns clean and gets good gas mileage.
> JG> Diesel mbz's are very expensive to repair. At 100k miles the car has
> JG> a good chance of being in need of a rebuild, unless it was taken care 
> JG> of
> JG> in which case 100k miles has not really broken the engine in yet.
>
>I've heard that there has been a lot of trouble with the "eta" engine used in
>the 528e. True or not?
>

   NOT!

If you ignore the 3.2 or 3.5 big six, the eta is a great engine (I have one
of each).

   Perhaps the only 'problem' is that you MUST change the timing belt every
80,000 kilometers (50,000 miles) because if it breaks, it'll bend the valves.

   Compared to 'other' cars, it's very fast. 

Bill Bain
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,misc.consumers
From: ybsim@oakhill.sps.mot.com (Yah-Bin Sim)
Subject: Re: Rain-X leaving cruddy film on windows?
Organization: Motorola Inc., Austin, Texas
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 21:48:51 GMT

In article <1891n7INNakv@agate.berkeley.edu> abulloch@garnet.berkeley.edu (Anthony Bulloch) writes:
>In article <1992Sep4.220209.9491@icus.ICUS.COM> 
>lenny@icus.ICUS.COM (Lenny Tropiano) writes:
>
>>I just applied some Rain-X to my windows, and it seems after a day or
>>two a dry-film of some sort appeared on the windows, side windows and
>>the sunroof.  Has anyone else had this experience?  
>
Lenny, 
Was it dust?  This never happened to me, and I live in Austin.  Did you follow 
the instructions, and use a damp cloth before wiping it dry?

>You might want to consider using Reflections, manufactured by Espial.
>It's a great glass-cleaner which never streaks and also protects
>agaist misting and fogging - better still, it's 100% non-toxic and
>ecologically green. That's what Espial specialises in, actually:
>....[stuff deleted]
>sign-up fee, but you recoup that almost immediately by being able to
>buy at wholesale, of course, and the company has an 800 number for
>ordering direct.)
>....[stuff deleted]
>Anthony Bulloch
>(510) 549-9127 (home)
>abulloch@garnet.berkeley.edu
>
So, what's the 800 number?

Also, does the "Reflections" do the same job as the Rain-X would, to the
windshield?  With Rain-X, when it rains, the rain drops "beads" up on the
windshields and get deflected/runoff the windshield quickly.  When it rains, 
I can see a lot better with Rain-X applied.  (No flames intended)

--
From: farber@triumph.Princeton.EDU (Henry S. Farber)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: ??? Anyone Work On Triumph Autos ???
Date: 8 Sep 92 13:22:20 GMT
Organization: Princeton University
Originator: news@nimaster

There is both a triumph club called the Vintage Triumph Register which  publishes
a magazine and a newsletter.  It also sponsers events for Triumph afficionados.  
I belong but do not remember the address.  You can find  small classifieds in the back
of magazines like Road & Track.  (If you cannot find the address emal me and I will try
to find it for you.

There is also a british car mailing list.  Try sol-digest-request@autox.team.net.

Hope this helps, and good luck with the Spitfire.

Hank Farber
1960 TR3a
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech