HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: tpickett@auspex.com (Tom Pickett)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Underdrive pullys - Any experiences?
Date: 12 Nov 92 16:12:32 GMT
Reply-To: tpickett@auspex.com (Tom Pickett)
Organization: Auspex Systems, Inc.  Engineering

In article <184241@pyramid.pyramid.com>, lstowell@pyrnova.mis.pyramid.com 
(Lon Stowell) writes:
>    Are you talking about a PLANE's electrical system or an
>     automobiles?   I'm lost at how you could compare one to the
>     other and expect a correct conclusion.  
> 
>     Not unless you fly your plane in stop and go traffic?

What in the world makes you think there is any difference in the
electrical system in an airplane, and the one found in a car?

We even use ACdelco alternators, and Ford regulators, honda starters...

The only difference is that airplanes generally use magnetos (which used
to be on cars) for ignition, but that is a closed system that is not
connected to the rest of the electrical system during operation.

Fact is, electrons still travel down copper wire, and alternators do 
exactly what they do in cars, and the airplane was in there simply
because auto mfgs in their infinite wisdom, do not provide guages to
monitor the electrical system like airplane mfgs do.  therefore
the aircraft is simply a convienient vehicle to monitor.  But the
electrical system is doing the same thing generally.

What the question we were discussing:  Why do I see the same output
at idle or cruise power, and would an underdrive pulley set necessarily
create too little power to run the engine and charge a battery?

We concluded only that the alternator was producing excess power at idle,
and so it was possible that an underdrive pulley set wouldn't be a problem.

But airplane electrical systems are not particularly different from
auto electrical systems, just as airplane engines are not greatly
different from car engines.


Tom Pickett 
tpickett@auspex.com or 74616.2237@compuserve.com
SHO  GOZE
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: lstowell@pyrnova.mis.pyramid.com (Lon Stowell)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Underdrive pullys - Any experiences?
Date: 12 Nov 92 22:49:33 GMT
Reply-To: lstowell@pyrnova.pyramid.com (Lon Stowell)
Organization: Pyramid Technology Corp., Mountain View, CA

In article <15459@auspex-gw.auspex.com> tpickett@auspex.com (Tom Pickett) writes:
>
>What in the world makes you think there is any difference in the
>electrical system in an airplane, and the one found in a car?
>
     None, but at what RPM Range does the typical aircraft operate
     compared to a car in stop and go traffic?   

>We even use ACdelco alternators, and Ford regulators, honda starters...
>
     So next time you are looking at one, please post the rpm and
     ampere ratings that are on its label.  

     That's the minimum rpm at which the alternator produces its
     rated power.   


>
>We concluded only that the alternator was producing excess power at idle,
>and so it was possible that an underdrive pulley set wouldn't be a problem.
     Idle speed on a car or on an airplane.  I take it you've never
     noticed your CAR's headlights dimming slightly at a stoplight
     with a full electrical load?

>
>But airplane electrical systems are not particularly different from
>auto electrical systems, just as airplane engines are not greatly
>different from car engines.
>
    No, not if the car is driven exclusively on freeways at near
    constant speed.  But few cars do that...and few planes stop and
    go much....or are flown routinely at low rpm.

    And SOME automobile alternators do produce an appreciable
    fraction of their rated amperage at typical city idle and
    driving speeds.  And some don't.  

    And SOME automobile alternators don't produce enough current
    at 300-1500 rpm to keep the battery charged and operate the
    A/C, high fan, aftermarket audio system, and aftermarket lights.
    Since I happened to have had a car with that problem, you can take
    your mentally derived facts and stick em somewhere....as other
    posters have noted also that SOME cars have problems and still
    others have noted that SOME don't.   


Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: vetter@mtu.edu (STEVEN J. VETTER)
Subject: Re: FLAME! Only a Manual!
Organization: Michigan Technological University
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 21:29:52 GMT

mshar@mentor.cc.purdue.edu (Mike Mshar) writes:
>> steven@syacus.acus.oz.au (Steven Malikoff) writes:
>
>>
>>A question for those who drive automatics: Have you *ever* seen a racing
>>car (F1, Indy, Stock, Rally, etc.) that has an auto transmission?
>
>Have you ever seen a race car with real power, i.e. a drag car, with a
>manual??


  Not that it is that important either way, but I don`t think
  crash boxed count as automatics in the sense that anyone in 
  this thread is referring to.

  vetter@mtu.edu

  PS- I'M F___ING COLD !!!>
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: underdog@leland.Stanford.EDU (Dwight Joe)
Subject: Premium on the Japanese Name (Re: Top 20 Selling Vehicles of 1992)
Organization: Miners for a Heart of Gold
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 92 05:22:09 GMT

In article <1dv57aINNpbn@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> aas7@po.CWRU.Edu
(Andrew A. Spencer) writes:
>In a previous article, jleung@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu (A St. Xavier alum) says:
>>In article <1992Nov12.024341.23802@leland.Stanford.EDU>
>>underdog@leland.Stanford.EDU (Dwight Joe) writes:
>>>Case in point:  Mazda Protege, MSRP = $12,100 (no air conditioning and auto)
>>>                Ford Escort, MSRP = $11,700 (with air conditioning and auto)
>>Lest you forget, the Ford Escort comes the the crap 1.9L engine ...
>HUH??..are you talking about the Euro spec escorts?..i dunno abt them.

You are all missing the point, which is that the Japanese label
commands an extra few hundred dollars.  Consider

American-badge         Identical/Very similar      Premium on
  vehicle                Japanese vehicle          the Japanese Name
--------------------------------------------------------------------
1.  Dodge Colt             Mitsubishi Mirage         ~$700
2.  Geo Prizm              Toyota Corolla            ~$700
3.  Mercury Tracer         Mazda Protege             ~$1000

#1 and #2 are dealing with exactly the same vehicles, but the American-badged
ones cost about $700 less than the corresponding Japanese vehicle.

The Mazda Protege is now selling for an MSRP after rebate of $11,100
($1000 is the rebate).  The Mercury Tracer can be had for $9999.  These
prices were gleaned from the local papers; the Tracer price seems uniform
across several dealerships.  Note that the Tracer actually comes with
air conditioning and auto. xmission; although the Protege comes with
auto. xmission, there is _no_ air conditioning.

------------------------------------------------------------------+------------
Jinsei no imi wa nan desu ka.                Sister, can you      |   \|  |`
Shitte itara oshiete kuremasen ka.           spare a coin?        |    | -+-
                                                                  |   /| / \
Copyright 1992.  Disclaimer:  1 + 1 = 3                           |
------------------------------------------------------------------+------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: got me a '90 miata - should i expect any problems?
From: derek@nezsdc.icl.co.nz (Derek Tearne)
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 92 22:03:16 GMT
Organization: Fujitsu New Zealand

In article <1992Nov10.220625.2852@lgc.com> commike@lgc.com (Alan Commike) writes:
>
>
>
>
>Is there anything that can be used to clean the rear window on the 
>soft-top. The plastic is foggy and has some scratches in it. I wish Mazda
>had put in a glass window!

On most convertibles with plastic windows the trick is in _carefully_ folding 
the top down without creasing or folding the screen.  It may explain how to
to this in your owners handbook.  On the old British sportscars you have to 
pull the canvas over the front rail of the top.  Most people just flip the 
thing back, which folds the screen in two.

If it's any help I can e-mail you the official description from my Jensen 
Healey handbook.

Someone posted recently that you can retrofit glass windows into most
soft tops.

>So far the car is great. I wanted a '93 RX-7, but i can't put down that 
>much cash for a car. So instead a got a little roadster, not fast but pretty
>fun. I've never owned a "real" car (no flames, i've read enough in the
>"only real men [and women] drive stick). In another week or so i should be
>able to stop worrying about the mechanics of driving, and start driving.

Of course it's a 'real' car - that has nothing to do with the type of gearbox
- more to do with the lack of roof!  

Mind you, it would be interesting if you let us know how hard you find the 
auto-manual transition,  give us a blow by account....  (don't do it if 
you're faint of heart 'though).

Have fun and don't get put off when winter comes.  Although I don't suppose 
it gets that cold in Texas.


-- 
Derek Tearne.   --   derek@nezsdc.icl.co.nz   --    Fujitsu New Zealand   -- 
Some of the more aware dinosaurs were worried about the environmental
consequences of an accident with the new Iridium enriched fusion reactor.  
"If it goes off only the cockroaches and mammals will survive..." they said.
From: holowczk@rwja.umdnj.edu (Richard Holowczak)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Sorry about the double post!
Date: 5 Nov 92 19:15:20 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: Robert Wood Johnson Medical School, Piscataway NJ


Sorry about that!  I got the old "unable to post" message and
tried again after 24 hours.  Whoops.



R.H.
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: gdw@wylie.b17d.ingr.com (Gary Wylie)
Subject: Re: Chrysler LH cars (Concorde, Intrepid, Vision)
Reply-To: gdw@wylie.b17d.ingr.com
Organization: Intergraph Corp.- Imaging Systems Development
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 19:24:18 GMT

In article <96862@netnews.upenn.edu>, rymon@linc.cis.upenn.edu (Ron Rymon) writes:
|> 
|>  I have seen the new LH car: the one by Chrysler. Its REALLY neat. Of
|> the few American cars that I liked. Its a bit pricey, but is it that
|> Chrysler is on the right track?
|> 
|> -Ron

I think they are.  They've had the best minivan by far (of course, they
invented the minivan), now they have the best 'touring Sedan'. 
I just purchased a new Dodge Intrepid ES.  I bought the Intrepid instead of
the Concorde due to the equipment this particular car had on it.  I also
like the style of the Aluminum wheels on the Dodge version better than the
Chrysler version, although the interior of the Chrysler had a more
luxurious look.  I haven't seen the Eagle Vision version yet.

I understand that these cars have been tested against the Accord Legend,
the Lexus ?, and the Bonneville SE and came out winners in almost every
category.  I personally was looking to purchase a Pontiac Bonneville SSE
before I decided on the Intrepid.

My Intrepid has the ES option which includes the larger Michelin XGT-V4
225R16 tires and Aluminum wheels, four wheel disk brakes, 4-wheel independent
suspension, four-wheel ABS.  It also has 'traction control' which is pretty
unique among this class of vehicle; I know the Corvette has traction control
but I'm not aware of others.  With this option, the car will supposedly 
pull off while sitting in a mixture of oil and water!  My car also has
the 3.5 Liter 24-valve V6 sitting at 0 degrees (not 90), which puts out
214 HP and runs very well indeed, along with full Leather upholstery, power
everything including both front seats, mirrors, antenna, windows, locks, etc.
The 'temperature control system' is also very nice as it will hold the temp
you set in.  PS.  It also has dual air bags although I don't particularly
like the idea of airbags (I prefer a GOOD seatbelt system- which this car
has).  Overall, although I only have about a 1000 miles on the
car thus far, I'm very pleased.  My only complaint is that it 'looks' more
like an import than I would like.  (:^)

My car listed for over $24K; I bought it for $22K total (with about $1K tax).
It was pricey due to the extra options.  They had other cars which had 
the ES option with the 16" tires/wheels and touring suspension which were very
nice indeed, which listed for just over $20K.  I suspect that one could
purchase these for $18K or so if you talk 'sweet' to the dealer!

Gary Wylie
From: smith@ctron.com (Lawrence C Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Corvette Turbo
Date: 9 Nov 92 15:07:06 GMT
Reply-To: smith@ctron.com
Organization: Cabletron Systems, Inc.

In article <BxDCCt.DH6@ssesco.com>, nau@ssesco.com (William Nau) writes:
>In article <1992Nov7.070750.10546@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>, ctoth@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Christopher M Toth) writes:
>|> 	Do Corvette's come in Turbo form? I was wondering if I could
>|> get a Corvette Turbo. Have they ever come with a Turbo?

>Apparently 300hp and tons of torque isn't enough for this guy.  No they don't
>come from the factory in turbo form.  There aftermarket places that will
>do just about anything to the car for you though.  Calloway is (I bilieve)
>the only place authorized by Chevy to put a turbo on a Corvette.

>You may also consider the Corvette ZR-1.  It's got more horses yet, but no
>turbo.

385, to be exact.  Reeves Callaway is an authorized Corvette-turbo after-
market type with a relationship with Chevy.  You can order a Twin-turbo
Corvette from a Chevy dealer, if you got the bucks, which are pretty much
the same bucks needed for a ZR-1.  The Reeves conversion, though, pumps out
about 400 horsepower and 560 pound-feet of torque.  I might add, however,
that C&C has never driven one of these that didn't have to towed away after-
ward, so reliability may be a problem.  Callaway is based out of Old Lyme,
Connecticutt, and I imagine he's in the book.

<mumble> Lingenfelter does aftermarket boosts, though he relies on good,
old-fashioned performance parts rather than turbos.  He has pushed ZR-1's
into the 500 HP range with new induction systems, timing, etc.  Even the
lowly "standard" 'vette in Lingenfelter trim punches out to 375 HP and over
400 lb-ft of torque.  He's got a good rep for keeping them together, too.

Larry Smith (smith@ctron.com)  No, I don't speak for Cabletron.  Need you ask?
-
Liberty is not the freedom to do whatever we want,
it is the freedom to do whatever we are able.
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: rll@frieda.mitre.org (Roberto L. Landrau)
Subject: Re: Diesel Engines ('79 VW Rabbit)
Organization: Research Computer Facility, MITRE Corporation, Bedford, MA
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 22:47:54 GMT

In article <1992Nov11.230243.5650@athena.mit.edu> cid@athena.mit.edu (Derek H Cedillo) writes:
>
>Hi, 
>I was interested in buying an old ('79) Rabbit 
>for occasional trasportation in NE and
>trips home (1000 mi)
>I had some general questions about Diesel engines.
>I understand they are utterly dependable,
>needing only oil changes for regular maintainence,

Rabbits also need valve adjustment, timing belt replacement (~60k
miles), air filter (~15k miles), fuel filter (~15k miles), and that's
about it, until something breaks.

>and the milage is supposed to be good (38 mpg)

That's city, with a real lead foot.

>I also hear about problems with fuel sludging up.

I have had mine for two years.  The coldest it has seen is -2 deg F.
It didn't start the first day, it died the second time, and then it
started right up the third time.  By the way, most other gas burners
had problems that day, too.  The battery in the Rabbit is HUGE and can
provide quite a few cranking amp's.

>This can be stopped by a heating unit,

Most of them have one already installed.  If not, you can probably
find one for $20-$30, I think.

>but I imagine this would run off the battery.

All the ones I have seen have been 110v, not battery operated.

>What do you do, if you only drive once or twice a month?
>Are there any problems generally associated with these engines?
>How many miles could you typically expect from an engine?
>Are they more duarable than gas burners?

Well, back in the early 80's, the gasoline version of the Rabbit
outsold the diesel one by quite a bit.  Nowadays, I probably see 5
diesel Rabbits for every gas one I see.

>Thanks for any info!
>Derek




--
The opinions stated above are not necessarily my employer's.
----------------------------------------------------------------
Roberto L. Landrau    KC1YP    landrau@mitre.org  rll@linus.mitre.org
The MITRE Corporation  Bedford, MA 01730          rll@linus.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: anbo@wuee1.wustl.edu (Albrecht Jander)
Subject: Re: new required dyno emissions tests / Re: New Gasoline Ripoff
Organization: Washington University, St. Louis Mo.
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 23:07:17 GMT

In article <2086.88.uupcb@chaos.lrk.ar.us> dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)  writes:
>
>-> Anyone who drives a internal combustion powered vehicle contributes
>-> to the world emmisions.  I am tired of all of this old car bashing as
>
> The largest single polluter in the world is the US Air Force.
>Collectively, various manufacturing plants and power generation make the
>USAF look like small potatoes.  Automobiles are actually rather far down
>on the list.  The "zero emission auto" furor is mainly political.
>Practically everyone is dependent on cars, so it brings the issues home
>to the electorate, which usually gets screwed anyway.

The auto may or may not be significant in terms of world wide polution,
but anyone who lives in one of Americas big cities knows that auto 
emissions are a BIG problem.

> There's also the raw fact that the majority of the world doesn't give a
>rat's ass about pollution, and if the US miraculously stopped putting
>out even a gram of pollution, it wouldn't make that much difference to
>the world at large.

The majority of the world doesn't give a rat's ass about individuals who
don't care about reducing pollution, and if they all miraculously got
asphixiated, it wouldn't make that much difference to the world at large.

Come on, somebody has to be the first one out on the dance floor.  You
can't expect everyone else to cut down on pullution first before you will
even consider!  There is such a thing as leadership.

Albrecht Jander


---------------------------------------------------------------------------
                        Peltier was a cool dude!!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dwb@cbnewsb.cb.att.com (david.boyle)
Subject: Re: Oil Filter valve (was:Dodge Caravan engine noise)
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 15:44:30 GMT

> First, get rid of the cheap oil filter without a anti drain-back valve.
> Pay the bucks & buy OEM or better.  Most likely, the oil is all draining out of
> the filter overnight, and the pump has to fill it back up before starting on the 
> engine.

I have been buying Purolator, and Frams filters on sale for the last year
or two.  How can I tell if these filters have an anti drain-back valve?
Do the filters with this valve specifically say so on the package? Thanks.
								Dave

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: adam@microware.com (Adam Goldberg)
Subject: Re: What is current wisdom on rotating tires (tyres)?
Organization: Microware Systems Corp., Des Moines, Iowa
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 20:59:42 GMT

merchant@cbnews.cb.att.com (shahrukh.s.merchant) writes:

>I have heard two schools of thought on whether tires should be rotated:

>   1. Front to Back only, so tires that start out on one side (left or
>      right) always stay there, or:
>   2. Front to back as well as diagonally, so that a tire ends up in all
>      4 positions eventually.

>(Forget about the complication of a spare, for the moment.)

>This is for a sub-compact front-wheel drive (Toyota Tercel) with all-
>weather radials.

>What is the wisdom of the net?

For Bias-ply tires, use one of the following:

    1   2      1->4->5->3->2->1  (with spare)
   
    3   4      1->4->3->2->1     (without spare)
     
      5

For radial tires (like your tercel), use either:

  1->3->5->1  AND 2->4->2

  OR
 
  1->3->1  AND 2->4->5->2

  OR

  1->3->1  and 2->4->2


ie, use cross-rotation ONLY for bias-ply tires, and DO NOT use cross-rotation
for radials.
-- 
Adam G.
adamg@microware.com, or ...!uunet!mcrware!adamg
The above is not to be construed in any way as the official or unofficial
statements of Microware, or any Microware employees.
From: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Trouble with a new car -
Date: 6 Nov 92 19:44:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Ye Olde Bailey BBS - Houston, TX - 713-520-1569
Reply-To: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 


SB!@#The response from the dealer (VW, Porsche, AUDI) appears
  !@#to be that they will "check it out", change the oil, and
  !@#give him the car back...  I contend that the jump in
  !@#temperature is a good indication that internal components
  !@#suffered highly increased friction without benefit of
  !@#lubrication.

SB!@#What should he reasonably and justifiably demand of the
  !@#dealership?  Should the main & rod bearings be pulled for
  !@#inspection/replacement?  Should more be pulled for inspection
  !@#(valvetrain, cam-bearings, pistons/rings)?  Other?

I would say there is an excellent chance of piston/cylinder scuffing at
the least. Same goes for cam/cam bearing surface(probably rides in the
head directly)
If they refuse to do anything serious and say all is fine then get
everything in writing. Document as much as you can. Be assured that when
the engine does fail..your AS% will be covered!
                                                        Don






  !@#Steve Bender
  !@#Evans & Sutherland
  !@#(801) 582-5847
  !@#Salt Lake City, UT 84108

SB!@#sbender@dsd.es.com

 * SLMR 2.1a * I'm too poor to have a TAG!
       
----
Ye Olde Bailey BBS
Houston,Texas
Node 1: 1 713 520 1569
yob@sccsi.com
From: vbreault@rinhp750.gmr.com (Val Breault)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Coasting with auto tranny's...
Date: 6 Nov 92 15:00:15 GMT
Organization: General Motors Research Labs
In-reply-to: leonglaw@hpsgm2.sgp.hp.com's message of 5 Nov 92 12:53:23 GMT

In article <53110035@hpsgm2.sgp.hp.com> leonglaw@hpsgm2.sgp.hp.com (Lawrence LEONG) writes:

   I'm curious, since I drive a manual (auto occasionally).  Is it then kinder 
   on the engine and/or tranny to leave it in gear at the lights?  Will this
   stress the engine/tranny? 

A manual transmission and it's related parts (linkage, clutch etc.) 
are engineered for frequent operation.  That's their normal mode.
If you wish to reduce wear by a small amount you can place the
transmission in neutral and release the clutch when waiting for
long periods (railroad crossings, drive-through banks etc.)  Very
little is gained by using this technique at stop lights, but 
nothing is lost.  It becomes a  "throwout bearing vs synchronizer"
trade off in which the wear is measured in very small amounts and
is an insignificant part of the total wear.

-val-
--

Val Breault - vbreault@gmr.com - N8OEF
General Motors Research and Environmental Staff.
The opinions expressed by the author do not necessarily reflect 
those of the GMRES or the General Motors Corporation.
From: nash@steer.sdsu.edu (Ron Nash)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: ECC-IV codes?
Keywords: ECC codes Chilton
Date: 6 Nov 92 18:36:31 GMT
Organization: San Diego State University


Chilton makes a good manual that lists engine codes and what they mean
in the Part No. 7768 "Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Controls 1984-88"
book.

-- 
             ,--, | Ron Nash	  San Diego State University
       _ ___/ /\| | nash@sdsu.edu
   ,;`( )__, )  ~ |  
  //  //   '--;   | Gin-N-Tonic   Learning to be an endurance horse