HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: lew@4ccvw25.scg.hac.com (Lyman Lew)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Connecting pushrods to servos
Keywords: EZ Connectors
Date: 26 Jan 93 01:08:17 GMT
Reply-To: lew@4ccvw25.UUCP (Lyman Lew)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Hughes Aircraft Co., El Segundo, CA

In article <C189q0.F7M@csn.org> eeak@teal.csn.org (Ed Krejcik) writes:
>Another from my list of questions:
>
><Stuff deleted.>
>I use the EZ connectors on my Gentle Lady, and they are great.
>They make it very easy for trimming. My friend says that they
>will be too unreliable in a power plane due to the vibration.
>
>
>QUESTION:
>Can I use the EZ connectors, or will they fail due to vibration?
>They are my first choice.
>
I use EZ connectors on everything from power plane to gliders. Yes,
vibration may cause a failure but I usually check all the mechanical
connections before the wing is bolted on. This gives me a chance
to inspect the plane before each flying session. For extra insurance,
I use a thread locking compound on all the screws so they don't come
loose. If the screw heads become smashed from frequent tightening, I
replaced them with a socket screw. There are better ways I guess, but
this hasn't failed me yet.


Lyman Lew, lew@caesi.scg.hac.com





Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: linkosal@klaava.Helsinki.FI (Tapio Linkosalo)
Subject: Re: SchoolGirl -- My first RC plane
Organization: University of Helsinki
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 08:54:38 GMT

> Hey! Sounds like a neat old airplane! How about scanning the plans
> or something? Perhaps someone might want to build a 2x replica...

Yeah! But why 2x? 1:1 would suit me!

> -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Iskandar Taib                          | The only thing worse than Peach ala
> Internet: NTAIB@SILVER.UCS.INDIANA.EDU |    Frog is Frog ala Peach
> Bitnet:   NTAIB@IUBACS                 !

-Tapio Linkosalo-
From: DEVILBISS@OCTAVE.LARC.NASA.GOV (Dave)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Tachometers
Date: 28 Jan 1993 16:42:33 GMT
Organization: NASA Langley Research Center, Hampton, VA  USA
Distribution: world
Reply-To: DEVILBISS@OCTAVE.LARC.NASA.GOV (Dave)
NNTP-Posting-Host: lockheedmac6.larc.nasa.gov

You will get 120Hz from a flourescent lamp.

________________________________________________        
        If we were not crazy, we would go insane.
        If we could not laugh, we would go insane!     J. Buffett
________________________________________________
From: seanm@terapin.com (Sean McCaskey)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Goldberg Ultimate Recommendations
Date: 28 Jan 93 06:45:56 PST
Organization: BBS

>
>What have you "netters" seen used on this plane and how was
>the performance?  I'd like to go with a 4c but the cost may
>be unreasonable to me.  Would an OS 61 BB be enough power?
>



  I have seen one at the field, and the owner used to have .80 2 stroke in it. 
He changed it to a 1.20 4 scroke and is much happier with preformance.

\c1----\c4Sean\c1----
From: pfoss@cmsa.gmr.com (Pete Foss PO/46)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Flair kits from England (was PCM or PPM or HAM or something like that)
Date: 26 Jan 93 16:42:16 GMT
Reply-To: pfoss@cmsa.gmr.com
Organization: .................


In article 1jjbr8INNfnq@uk-news.uk.sun.com, rob@firefox.uk.sun.com (Rob Latham - Sun Logistics Europe) writes:
>>Splash my boots another Britt......
>
>Yes there are a few us listening in. Its nice to hear
>comments about Flair kits from the other side of the water.
>

I built their 1/4 scale Fokker DRI a couple of years ago.  Nice wood, good die cutting.
Hardware package was a little thin.  BTW, the nose hase been stretched a bit
for ease in balancing.  I have a Quadra 35 in mine.  It flies nice but the ground
handling in horrible.  You break something (rudders mostly) about avery other landing.
Don't even try to fly it in the wind unless you have a parachute to land it with.

Actually, I think most of the problems I have with it is the power to weight
ratio.  I'm just not used to airplanes that fly on the wing rather than sheer
power.
From: dbraun@cad636.intel.com (Doug Braun )
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Transmitter/Receiver Mods
Date: 22 Jan 93 01:16:07 GMT
Reply-To: dbraun@scdt.intel.com
Organization: Intel Design Technology


--

I have a 4-channel Futaba FM system, and I was thinking of getting
a plane (Sig Samuri glider) that needs elevon mixing.

Does anyone make a little black box that goes in the plane
to do the mixing electronically?  Otherwise, has anyone ever
heard of a modifiecation to the transmitter to hard-wire
it to do the mixing?  How about a mod to add more channels?
I would assume the chip in the transmitter that does all the work
has the capability of doing more than 4 channels, and you
could wire in pots or switches to some unused inputs to
get more channels.
 

"There is no human problem which could not be solved if
 people would simply do as I advise." -- Gore Vidal


 Doug Braun                         Intel Design Technology
                                    408 765-4279

 dbraun@scdt.intel.com

                 / decwrl \
                 | hplabs |
 or maybe:      -| oliveb |- !intelca!mipos3!cadev6!dbraun
                 | amd    |
                 \ qantel /
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: johnsonc@spot.Colorado.EDU (Chris `Choke' Johnson)
Subject: Twist in the Wing
Summary: Straightening a warped wing
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1993 20:40:07 GMT

I am looking for the summary of the discussion regarding what to do with
a warped wing.  I am returning to modeling with a Sig Kadet MKII.  I
unfortunately seemed to build a twist into the wing though.  currently,
if the wing is flat on the table, the outside rear corner is raised by
about .25 inches.  I have not done any covering yet.  The wing is just
about ready for final sanding, and then connecting the halves.  All
sheating and capstrips are glued in.  

                     thanks for the help.

e-mail to JohnsonC@spot.Colorado.EDU 

                      Chris Johnson

-- 
^----------^----------^----------^----------^----------^----------^----------^
|   JohnsonC@Spot.Colorado.EDU     :    ->CHoKE<- It's a band,               | 
|   O. Phone (303) 492-5031        :          It's a lifestyle               |
<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
From: sbixby@cup.portal.com (Steven W Bixby)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Connecting pushrods to servos
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 93 16:59:00 PST
Organization: The Portal System (TM)
Distribution: usa
  <1993Jan26.164834.21125@dcdwest.uucp>

< EZ-connectors comments >
>>I prefer to use adjustable clevises on both ends of a pushrod. 
>                                        ^^^^^^^^^

>I assume you use a lock nut on atleast one end to prevent the pushrod
>from lengthening or shortening due to vibration? Not a flame, just wanna
>be sure the neophytes don't get the wrong impression.

Errr.. Wait a minute, think about this a second.  If one end of the
rod rotates in the clevis, then the other one does too.  The rod may
slide one way or the other by rotating, but the length remains the 
same (assuming 2-56 threads...)

Now, this is not to say I 'condone' using un-lock-nutted clevises on
both ends of a rod...!  The pushrod could rotate enough to completely
come out of one clevis.  And, it could advance far enough into one side
to cause binding, and eventually battery run-down, and so forth.

My personal choice, which I use on virtually EVERY pushrod type installation
is Z bends on the servo end, and STEEL clevises, locknutted to prevent
metal-to-metal noise, as well as a piece of fuel tubing over the closed
clevis to prevent it from popping off under load.  For smaller planes
and gliders, I will use nylon clevises, if the horn is also nylon; a 
miniscule amount of weight, and no need for a locknut.

The only place I will use EZ-connectors is for nose-wheel steering
(usually not there, either) and throttle.  These are more adjustment
prone items, and often harder to get at the end opposite the servo.

Several years ago I did use EZ's on my flight surfaces, but my rudder
on a tail-dragger popped the EZ off the servo a couple of times on landing,
and I decided it was CHEAPER, STRONGER, and MORE RELIABLE to use Z-bends.
The available z-bender pliers are really good for this - one of my most
favorite tools, in fact.  :)

  -swb- (Steve Bixby, sbixby@cup.portal.com)
From: DEVILBISS@OCTAVE.LARC.NASA.GOV (Dave)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Wind Speed Gauge
Date: 22 Jan 1993 15:38:53 GMT
Organization: NASA Langley Research Center, Hampton, VA  USA
Distribution: world
Reply-To: DEVILBISS@OCTAVE.LARC.NASA.GOV (Dave)
NNTP-Posting-Host: lockheedmac6.larc.nasa.gov

>From: frankfx@volkswagon.EBay.Sun.COM (Joe Fenech)
>Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
>Subject: Wind Speed Gauge
>Date: 21 Jan 1993 23:08:05 GMT
>Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.

>Who can tell me where to get a hand held wind speed
>detector. I have seen a few on the slopes, but have
>not been able to find out where they come from.
>
>Tx
>
>Joe 

Try at any sailing or boating store.  They should have one for you or should be 
able to get one.  I'll guess $50.00 or so but don't quote me.

Enjoy . . . Dave

________________________________________________        
        If we were not crazy, we would go insane.
        If we could not laugh, we would go insane!     J. Buffett
________________________________________________
From: jmoonan@ccv1.bbn.com (John Moonan)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: SCR vs. SCE?
Date: 27 Jan 93 14:07:28
Organization: BBN Communications, Cambridge, MA
NNTP-Posting-Host: ccv1.bbn.com
In-reply-to: cb1p+@andrew.cmu.edu's message of 26 Jan 93 21:04:33 GMT
To: cb1p+@andrew.cmu.edu

     The difference between SCR and SCE NiCad batteries:

	The original Sanyo sub-C NiCad batteries were refered to as SC cells.
They are call sub-C as they were the same capacity as the current C Cells but
were somewhat smaller.  These batteries had a capacity of 1200 mAh.  Later,
Sanyo brought out an improved cell that was more rugged, had somewhat higher
output voltage and capacity, first 1400 mAh and later 1700 mAh, and could be 
charged at high rates, these were called SCR cells (the R stood for rapid 
charge).  Sanyo also brought out an improved cell that had a larger increase 
in capacity, first 1500 mAh and later 1700 mAh, these were called SCE cells 
(the E stood for Extra), however, these cells could not be charged as rapidly
as the SCRs and were only supposed to be charge once a week.  The idea was that
the SCRs were used where you needed rapid recharge, multiple recharges per day,
short duration, etc.  The SCEs were used where a long discharge time was needed
at the expense of output voltage.

	In R/C car racing the SCRs were typically used for short sprint racing
and the SCEs for longer races.  However, now the capacity of the SCRs has 
caught up with the SCEs so a lot of this distinction has dissappeared.  I know
that my son, who is big into R/C car racing, used to use SCRs for 4 minute
races and SCEs for 8 minute races but now has gone exclusively to the 1700 SCR
cells.

	Hope this helps.

--

					THANX, John Moonan
					SYSOP, 495th R/C Squadron
					Groton, MA
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib)
Subject: Re: Vacuum bagging
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1993 05:58:26 GMT

In article <19930122131342.Roger.Wilfong@umich.edu> Roger.Wilfong@umich.edu  (Roger Wilfong) writes:

>Do you just use a plain old polyethelyne (sp?) bag (like a garbage bag) and 
>hook it to the vacuum side of the compressor?  

There was a good article in the latest Model Aviation (or was it Model
Builder?) magazine. What they usually use vacuum bagging for is wings, 
so the bags are usually made out of large polyethylene sheet. They sell 
plastic foldover strips to seal the edges.

The idea is to use air pressure to squeeze as much resin out of the 
fiberglass layer on the styrofoam wing core as possible - this forces
the glass fibers together and results in a lighter stronger wing. The
wing will also have a mirror smooth surface because you use a layer 
of drafting mylar right up next to the curing fiberglass. On top of 
the mylar goes a blanket ("breather felt" I think they call it) and
the whole  assembly goes in the bag. 

A while back I suggested that someone try this method to make fiber-
glass rocket tubes with mirror finishes. Just lay it up over a mailing 
tube (or better yet iron pipe? 9-)

>Do you need to do anything to avoid sucking the resin into the compressor?

I don't think this is too much of a problem.

-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Iskandar Taib                          | The only thing worse than Peach ala
Internet: NTAIB@SILVER.UCS.INDIANA.EDU |    Frog is Frog ala Peach
Bitnet:   NTAIB@IUBACS                 !
From: slezal@gyro.ECE.ORST.EDU (Lee Slezak)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Misc R/C Car Questions
Date: 22 Jan 1993 00:08:45 GMT
Organization: none
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: gyro.ece.orst.edu


Hi all-

I just read a posting about r/c car questions so I figured I would
post away.  First off, does anyone know where to to get nicads
cheap?  I like to build my own 6 and 7 cell packs and I am looking
to build more but I am sick of spending tons of money on my
battery packs.  Maybe I am getting a good deal you tell me,
I can get matched sanyo 1400 indvidual cells for $3/cell (low numbers)
$4/cell (decent numbers) and $5/cell (good numbers), (when I
say numbers I mean similar discharge rates, etc.)  Where can I get
cheap cells of 1400 to 1700 mAh??

My next question also deals with nicads, I would like to build a 
peak charger, anyone have any plans?

How can I make my stock motors faster?  Can you make them like
modifieds or what?

Lastly I was wondering if anyone else out there is still using the
old RC10 gearbox (prior to the stealth).. I use it, simply for
to avoid purchasing a stealth.. But if anyone else still uses it
do you have any tips?


Well take care and thanks-

Lee Slezak
slezal@scrooge.ece.orst.edu
From: chad@ithil.enet.dec.com (Chad Leigh)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: crystal swapping (was Re: RCD receivers and third-party servos)
Date: 22 Jan 93 11:34:38 GMT
Reply-To: chad@ithil.enet.dec.com
Distribution: usa
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation, Munich Germany


--
Hi

Here in Germany you walk into the store and buy
a transmitter and a receiver and then the crystals.
You can swap and switch all you want.

My US X347 came with a rx in the lo band and mentioned that
there was a hi-band as well.  I guess JR has tuned their
stuff to two bands and crystal switching in these bands is okay.

Chad

-------------------------------------------------------
Chad Leigh                         | I don't speak
Digital Equipment GmbH             | for DEC and they
Munich, Germany			   | don't speak
Originally from Pepperell, MA, USA | for me
-------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: larry@peak.psl.nmsu.edu (Evil Engineer doin' it the Cowboy Way)
Subject: Re: Tachometers
Organization: New Mexico State University, MetaPhysical Science Laboratory
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 07:34:44 GMT

Aren't you fellers just talking about the same basic kind of tach, except
that one has a digital LCD display and the other has a mechanical meter
movement on it?

I've got the Tower hobbies digital tach and it works fine, but I can well
imagine that the analog version is just as simple, and perhaps a little
easier reading. Kinda like a digital speedometer in a car versus a decent
analog round dial.

L.
"Yeh, Buddy..            | larry@psl.nmsu.edu (Larry Cunningham)|  _~~_
 I've got your COMPUTER! | % Physical Science Laboratory        | (O)(-)
 Right HERE!!"           | New Mexico State University          |  /..\ 
 (computer THIS!)        | Las Cruces, New Mexico, USA 88003    |   <> 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Disclaimer: Opinions expressed here are CORRECT, mine, and not PSLs or NMSUs..
When I break down just a little, I lose my head. No one can understand a
word that I say..
From: stand@austin.ibm.com (Stan Douglas)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Twist in the Wing
Date: 25 Jan 93 20:41:17 GMT
Article-I.D.: austin.C1FG4u.28uG
Organization: IBM Austin
Originator: stand@stand.austin.ibm.com


I usually use ammonia and water to remove warps.  This works MUCH better than
water.  Simply saturate the balsa with this solutionand clamp the wing in the
position you want it to assume.   The ammonia does something to the cells of
the balsa and causes it to be more flexable.   After it dries the water and 
ammonia are gone and the balsa resumes it's original property.   I read this
originally in one of the mags.  Maybe one of you chemical oriented guys can
expand on why this works.

I also used to steam balsa to bend it around difficult bends.  What I do for 
that is use a long piece of rubber tube, like for automobile vacuum lines, and
plug it into the wife's pressure cooker top.  Where the jiggle thing goes.  You
get great quantities of live steam in this way, so be careful.  

As far as a warped wing goes.  Don't cover it until you have the wing perfect.
Ie, both sides should be exactly the same.  If you cover it and take the warp 
by tensioning the covering, you're asking for nothing but problems and the warp
will come back forcing you to work with it before every flying session.  I have
never seen a poorly built wing fly well.  The whole difference between a great
flying model and one that's all over the sky is in building it true (and light).

I even go so far as to build my wings on a sheet of glass.   There are numerous
other techniques.  A well built airplane will groove and fly where you point it.
It will track through loops, inside and outside.  In general a great flying 
plane will make you look better than you are in the air, at least in my case it 
does.  I am currently flying 4 models.  One of them is not perfect and it is a
real bear to land as I fly it all the way into the ground.   The others are much
better and after I line up with the runway I only need to worry about the 
throttle and the elevator, not in keeping it aligned with the runway.

Just an observation, but usually the guys that are master builders (you know,
their airplanes are beautiful inside and out) have airplanes that fly as good
as they look.  I think this is because they take the care to make sure everything
is right, including the finish.  The cobbled up looking things that you wouldn't
want in your garage, usually fly crummy too.

I think there are other chemicals you can use,  someone else please??


Stan  N5CKQ
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: linkosal@klaava.Helsinki.FI (Tapio Linkosalo)
Subject: Re: Vacuum bagging
Organization: University of Helsinki
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 19:48:14 GMT

Roger Wilfong (Roger.Wilfong@umich.edu) wrote:
>  
> Do you just use a plain old polyethelyne (sp?) bag (like a garbage bag) and 
> hook it to the vacuum side of the compressor?  
>  
> Do you need to do anything to avoid sucking the resin into the compressor?
>  
> - Roger

In plastic shops they sell polyethene (I think) in a 'tube'
form: the plastic is in a big roll, and if you cut a piece,
you find out that it has two layers with sides together (hard
to describe better...). The plastic is clear, quite soft, and
about as thick as garbage bags. It comes in many different
widths, is cheap, and (very neat:) epoxy does _not_ stick to
it. So just cut a piece large enough, put your mold or
whatever in, and let compressor suck. To avoid epoxy inside
the compressor, use a length of silicone (or rubber) tubing in
between bag and comp. You may need to cut a couple of cm:s
some times, as some epoxy indeed is sucked into tubing.

Hint #1. Do not try to seal the bag using tape or something.
Buy some silicone padding, spread that to the ends of the
plastic 'tubing' (inside), and through the clear plastic you
can see when it ise airtight. Let the tube run through one end,
though. :-)

Hint #2. If you have a vacuum bottle (I recommend it), close
the tubing (that will lead to the bag) with clothes peg or
similar, and let the pump suck vacuum to the bottle while you
work with the mold. Close the bag with silicone. Now by
opening the clothes peg a little at the time, you can control
the fibres in the mold (or whatever), as you _gradually_
increase the vacuum and the pressure.

Hope this helps...

-Tapio Linkosalo-
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: teemu@krkmoon.krk.fi (Teemu Hakala)
Subject: Re: Tachometers 
Organization: Radio Club of Kauniainen (OH2NRG)
	<C1E7t9.G82@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu>
	<1993Jan25.210708.6973@rtsg.mot.com>
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 15:54:39 GMT

   Well, it seems to glow pretty steadily, except that it does flicker
   enough to show 3600 rpm on my Royal Tach.

 Yes, they flicker. Those optical tachos are VERY sensitive to lighting
CHANGES, and they do NOT have any image processing to smooth the input
as we humans have. You probably all know some optical joke (the classic
is a fork with two, oh excuse me, three pins, no two it was...). Human
eye is not a very accurate instrument, at least not combined with human
brain, which tries to make something reasonable out of the incoming vision,
not to count flickers....


   Yes, a florescent light has noticable pulses.  Hold up your hand
   against a florescent light, looking at it through your fingers.  Wave
   your hand frantically.  Now, apologise to the person who thought you
   were being over friendly.  You may have noticed, though, before you
   embarrassed yourself, that you see a bunch of finger images.  That's
   the light pulses.

 You can do the very same test in front of your monitor, at least if it is
not one of those long-glow models, which are designed to accurate b/w
typing/typesetting for 8hrs/day. Another test you can do is to hold a spiked
wheel in front of you and then turn it. If you turn fast enough, at first
you do see through it (human brain again), then you see spinning blur which
changes direction (you may have any sort of mains lighting you like) as the
wheel slows down, then again until you can see the spikes clearly.


   |Whether they flash 60x per second or 120x per second I don't know.
   You can see 60 cycles/second as a noticeable flicker.  120 is high enough
   that your persistance of vision makes it look steady.


 They flash 100 (120 in 60Hz region) times a second. The voltage (and the
current in the same phase with a lamp, which is in fact a resistor) across
the lamp terminals varies from 0V to 310V (here in the 220VAC mains) and then
to -310V and again to 0V. This is the cycle which repeats 50 times (60 there
again) per second. You can see two voltage (and current) peaks if you draw
this on the paper in a neat sine wave. So, there are two flashes per cycle.

 BTW, thats why some monitors flicker LOT in the TV, they use the same refresh
rate as the mains cycle is, and if the phase difference gets right you`ll see
the image jumping on the screen in a way you know is unbearable to watch
for even short times.

--
Teemu Hakala     |     E-Mail to :     | 'So, there is no need to do any
Kasavuorentie 9B | teemu@krksun.krk.fi |  homework, mom, if there is no school'
02700 Kauniainen | Teemu.Hakala@krk.fi |   -- Calvin