HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: rick@racer.NSP-SERVER1 (Rick Schiller)
Subject: Re: Did Datsun A14 motors have brass valve
Reply-To: rick@racer.NSP-SERVER1
Organization: Tandem Computers Inc.
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 19:14:16 GMT

In article EBM@srgenprp.sr.hp.com, frankb@sad.hp.com (Frank Ball) writes:
>John J. Stankus (stankus@d31mf2.Stanford.EDU) wrote:
>& I'm helping a friend who is replacing a head gasket on a 1979 Datsun A14
>& engine.  When he talked to the machine shop he is going to have check the 
>& head for flatness and dip it, they mentioned that this engine had for some
>& of the years it was manufactured came with brass valve seats, that had a
>& tendency to come out.  Can anyone confirm or deny this?  If so what years
>& had them.  Any other wisdom about the idiosyncrasies of this engine would
>& be appreciated.
>
>Datsun did use brass valve seats on some engines, such as the L16 
>used in the PL510s from '69 to '72.  I don't know about your engine.  
>I never heard of them coming loose.
>--
>Frank Ball   1UR-M          frankb@sad.hp.com    (707) 794-4168 work,
>Hewlett Packard             (707) 794-3844 fax,  (707) 538-3693 home
>1212 Valley House Drive     IT175, XT350, Seca 750, '62 F-100, PL510
>Rohnert Park CA 94928-4999  KC6WUG, LAW, AMA, Dod #7566, I'm the NRA.



Yes they did, my wifes old Datsun B210 had the seat on #3 fall out when she
had this car. It was also very funny when I was looking for a place to fix the
head, he asked if it was #3 hole.  Must have been a known problem.

Rick Schiller
SCCA ITC 510 #70
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu (Real Life?!?! HA!!)
Subject: Re: Defogger and A/C compressor question
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 03:50:27 GMT

frazer@ired460a.erim.org (Matt Frazer) writes:

>[A/C compressor cycles quickly when defroster is turned on]

Sounds to me like the A/C system needs to be recharged.  When the pressure of
freon in the system gets too low, the compressor automatically switches off.
Perhaps on this car, it simply waits a while and then tries it again, with 
repeated bad effect.  I would start by recharging the system.  Oh, wait, you
can't buy freon OTC anymore, can you?  Damn.  I guess just go to a shop and say
"Fix it!"

>  Another simpler question I have regards engine run-on. As I said, this
>car was driven by a little old lady. It was probably never driven over
>35MPH. Would this be the most likely cause of the terrible case of engine
>run-on it has? What's the best remedy for this?

Could be that some carb part or other is so badly gummed up that it never com-
pletely shuts off fuel flow.  First thing I'd try would be running it until the
tank is almost empty, and the filling it with good gas.  Could just be that the
gas has been sitting so long it has gone bad to the extent that it runs on.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Michael T. Chaffee        | mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu  |  ______    
                                                       |  \    /   HATE
"I chased a rainbow down a one-way street.  Dead end." |   \  /  is not a
     - S. P. McCall                                    |    \/  FAMILY VALUE
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Painting an aluminum boat
Date: 14 Dec 92 13:11:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Ye Olde Bailey BBS - Houston, TX - 713-520-1569
Reply-To: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 


  >>>Subject: Painting an aluminum boat
  >>>Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1992 20:43:12 GMT

Sure!
        Just visit your nearest boat shop and look for epoxy paint and
        primer. Expensive, but thats what it needs...if the boat shop
        don't carrie it ask 'em who does or check a boat repair shop.
                                                                Don


 * SLMR 2.1a * I put spot remover on my dog....Spots gone!
                                                                                    
----
Ye Olde Bailey BBS
Houston,Texas
Node 1: 1 713 520 1569
yob.sccsi.com
From: george@mech.seas.upenn.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: tranny problems
Date: 12 Dec 92 20:24:34 GMT
Organization: University of Pennsylvania, Mechanical Engineering


:   >>>shift properly (it is in third by 20 mph) and it has no passing gear. 


:Check the detent/kickdown cable. Only cable from trans to the throttle

gm stopped using cables in ~1974 ( anyone know why?, i like'd 'em )
This car will have a vacuum operated kick down, but i dont see
why a problem with that would cause early upshifting.
--
  /   george jefferson
\/ *  george@mech.seas.upenn.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: wesf@boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii)
Subject: Re: Extending engine life--Block heaters (was Re: Oil Priming System)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 19:20:46 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

Dylan McNamee (dylan@cs.washington.edu) wrote:
: 
: The first simpler solution I can think of is to add an engine-block heater, 
: and to always use it when it's really cold.  Apparently most engine wear
: happens during cold starts, and the wear is worse the colder it gets.

And an added benefit- Leave the heater controls on and defroster vents
open all night and the warm water circulating in the engine will keep a 
lot of the frost off the windshield, too (this works best with the tank-
type engine heaters but works somewhat with the others).

P.S. Seattle doesn't know what really cold is...

Wes Fujii

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Wes Fujii               *           JAPANESE BUSINESS MOTTO           *
* Boise, Idaho            *        You can buy anything you want        *
* wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com *             with a lot of money             *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
From: hoffman@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Mark Hoffman)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: brakes - help !!
Date: 14 Dec 92 19:47:31 GMT
Reply-To: hoffman@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Mark Hoffman)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

applied unevenly (grabs or pulsates).  Front disk, rear drum.  Front
brake rotors checked and OK.  On going problem for 1 year, does not
seem to be getting worse.  Rebuild calipers?  Change brake lines?  Master
Cylinder problem?
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: welchb@woods.ulowell.edu
Subject: Re: HELP! Engine cuts out on Toyota Corolla! 
Organization: University of Lowell
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 15:46:37 GMT

In article <1992Dec14.160215.8570@bcrka451.bnr.ca>, hemi@bcrkd12.bnr.ca (Hemi Thaker) writes:
> 	I'm having a problem with my '86 Toyota Corolla SR-5.
> The first time the problem happened, I was driving at 120Km/hr
> when all of a sudden my engine died on me.  I still had electrical
> power, and could crank the engine, but it wouldn't start.  The
> engine did not sputter or cough when it died.
> 
> 	This problem has reoccured a few more times.  Every time,
> I have either been driving faster than 100Km/hr, or standing still.
> Again, after the engine dies, I can crank as much as I want, but the
> car won't start.  However, after 1 hour and 15 to 20 minutes
> later (yes, this exact), I can start the car, and it behaves as
> if nothing had happened.
> 
> 	As per Murphy's laws, this "feature" of my car is impossible
> to reproduce in front of or by the mechanic.  He had originally
> thought it was a faulty fuel pump, and replaced that, but the problem
> resurfaced two weeks later.

I had a similar problem, and embarrassed to say it was the fuel filter.
Unfortunately, I think your mechanic must have looked at this already.
-- 
Brendan Welch, UMass/Lowell, W1LPG,  welchb@woods.ulowell.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bowmanj@csn.org (Jerry Bowman)
Subject: Re: transmission quirk
Organization: University of Colorado Boulder, OCS
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 15:51:24 GMT

In article <1992Dec17.213640.22309@linus.mitre.org> jm@woody.mitre.org (Jeffrey P. Manosh) writes:
>I own a 1988 Olds 98 Regency Brougham. It has I believe a 4 speed automatic
>transmission.(There are two "drive" positions, the overdrive having a circle
>around the "D". There seems to be a problem when driving the car at a steady
>speed on level ground around 50 mph, and when a gradual incline approaches
>in the road. The transmission feels like it attempts to downshift to 3rd, and
>as it does, it does so indecisively, hicupping several times between 4th and 
>3rd before it settles into 3rd. The jolting can be avoided by either driving
>the car in "D" instead of "circle D", or pressing on the accelerator more
>strongly at the onset of a hill. 
>   My mechanic adjusted a "torque converter switch", but this did not
>help. He referred me to a tranmission specialist.  The tranmission specialist
>wants to connect the car to a diagnostic computer for $40 to find the problem.
>I suspect its something simple, like a vaccum line or modulator valve.
> Can anyone out there give me some advice as to what may be the problem?
>I would really appreciate some tips. Please send email as I don't regularly
>read this newsgroup.
>                     Thanks
>                     Jeff Manosh

   It sounds like you have the 700R4 trans that needs the TV cable adjusted.  Try another trans shop.
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:16743 rec.autos:29943
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
Subject: Question about the used car
From: helen@shum.cc.huji.ac.il (Helen Zommer)
Date: 15 Dec 92 22:18:07 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Hebrew University, Jerusalem, Israel
Keywords: Nissan

Hello all!

I need your help. Is it possible to determine the year when the
car was produced by the serial number on its body ? I'm asking
this for my friend. He bought the used car (Nissan Praire, the
number JN100PM10U0003158) as 1985 model, but he suspects that
it is actually 1983. This year stands on the safety belts; and
there are problems with the spare parts. He is not able to
contact the seller. If someone knows anything on the matter,
please reply to helen@hope.cc.huji.ac.il. Thank you !

Helen.
From: hacker@cco.caltech.edu (Jonathan Bruce Hacker)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: How do you remove frozen, stripped screws?
Date: 15 Dec 1992 21:48:31 GMT
Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena
NNTP-Posting-Host: sandman.caltech.edu

csk@wdl50.wdl.loral.com (Chuck Kuczaj) writes:

>I've tried penetrating oil, heat, hammers, and other things, but the
>basic problem is still the fact that one can't exert enough force on
>a stripped screw.  Is there any kind of special tool, which when
>"clamped-on" to the exposed screw head, allows for the exertion of much
>greater torque?  Obviously, I've tried using the "vice-grip method".
>What I'm looking for is a more optimal solution.

If there is anything left of the original screw head, an impact screw
driver will work wonders.



-- 
Jon Hacker
Caltech, Pasadena CA
hacker@tumbler-ridge.caltech.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks)
Subject: Re: Timing Belt on Civic Si.
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 14:24:22 GMT

In article <1992Dec17.094618.380@hsh.com> lee@hsh.com (Lee Havemann) writes:
>
>My brothers car did this, and it bent a valve - this was an 85 Honda CRX...
>
>Rebuilt the engine since we had to take the head off anyway, and had a
>wonderful (I'm being sarcastic, if you hadn't noticed :-) time, as they used
>line ground bearings, and every one was different. You had to match the
>letter stamped on the block to the number stamped on the crank next to each
>bearing, which then you looked up on a chart, which translated to a color,
>and had to order it that way. Then they charged by the bearing half! One of
>the worst engine designs I have ever seen! I have also heard that these cars 
>are known for the cranks wearing out of true (journals becoming eggshaped),
>forcing you to replace the crank. 
>
This has been a hallmark of Honda engine manufacture for years - it dates
back to the first generation Civics. I can't say for sure, but my guess is
that they machine them to a given size, and if they screw up, they take it
out to the next size and put a different bearing it, rather than scrap the
block. This is pure conjecture, but the only reason I can think of.

Also, another "feature" of these engines is the fact they are overhead cam
engines with no cam bearings. If your cam-to-journal clearance gets too 
big, you get to replace the head, to the tune of about $1K for the assembly.

Fortunately, I never had to rebuild the engine on my Honda...
 
Ted Brooks
 ______________________________________________________________________
| Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are my own, and do not reflect    |
| those of my employer. Advice is free, but you get what you pay for.  |
|                               ________                               |
|                         _____|  1955  |_______                       |
|                        /      Chevrolet      /                       |
|                       /______  BelAir  _____/                        |
|                              |________|                              |
|______________________________________________________________________|
 
Ted Brooks
 ______________________________________________________________________
| Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are my own, and do not reflect    |
| those of my employer. Advice is free, but you get what you pay for.  |
|                               ________                               |
|                         _____|  1955  |_______                       |
|                        /      Chevrolet      /                       |
|                       /______  BelAir  _____/                        |
|                              |________|                              |
|______________________________________________________________________|
From: c.oneill@trl.oz.au (Chris O'Neill)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Jaguar XJ-12 is a Dog?
Date: 21 Dec 92 01:07:46 GMT
Organization: Telecom Australia Research Laboratories

In article <hhelanto.724560878@vipunen.hut.fi> hhelanto@vipunen.hut.fi (Henri R
Helanto) writes:
>In <2335@shaman.wv.tek.com> harmons@.WV.TEK.COM (Harmon Sommer) writes:
>
>>Given that those who vote with their tool kits, or wallets, have pulled 
>>more Jag engines and replaced them with chev, suggests that Jag V12 
>>powered Corvettes are a distinct rarity.
>
>        The big problems with Jag V12 are:
>        1. Non-existent reliability. My mother has had a XJS V12 for
>           18 months now and they have already changed the whole
>           ignition system and most of the fuel injection system.
>           TWICE!  (isn't really a problem with old Jags without
>           computer or EFI).

This is a bit irritating.  To think that they can make a V12 block, crankshaft
etc. and then stuff up the peripheral things like ignition and fuel injection
is disappointing.

>        2. Absence of _good_ tune-up parts. There isn't factory
>           made cylinder heads (well, outrageously expensive
>           XJR-S Cosworth heads), decent intake plenum, complete
>           bolt-on blower kits, headers or just about anything.

Again, disappointing.

>        ...But I still love that V12 and asking Vette drivers
>        where they have lost four cylinders... ;-)
>        (Yep, my mother bitches me about it all the time :-( ).

Chris O'Neill
Telecom Australia Research Labs
From: frank@marvin.contex.com (Frank Perdicaro)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: transmission quirk
Date: 18 Dec 92 15:44:25 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Xyvision Design Systems

In article <1992Dec17.213640.22309@linus.mitre.org> jm@woody.mitre.org (Jeffrey P. Manosh) writes:
>I own a 1988 Olds 98 Regency Brougham. It has I believe a 4 speed automatic
>transmission.(There are two "drive" positions, the overdrive having a circle
>around the "D". There seems to be a problem when driving the car at a steady
>speed on level ground around 50 mph, and when a gradual incline approaches
>in the road. The transmission feels like it attempts to downshift to 3rd, and
>as it does, it does so indecisively, hicupping several times between 4th and 

Olds engines never bolted to TH700s so you either have an olds/TH200
combo or a chevy/TH700 combo.  Either will have a locking converter.
It might be that your TPS of MAP is bad, causing the converter to lock
and unlock.  

I will guess that with the 98 you have a chevy 305 w/TH700;  put a 
diagnostic light on the lock signal lead from the computer and see if
it is a lock/unlock problem.  

Converter only locks in 4th, so holding 3rd, as you said, would
eliminate the problem.

-- 
	 Frank E Perdicaro, Systems Admin, etc.		Xyvision Color Systems
      Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.		101 Edgewater Drive
   inhouse: frank@marvin, x5572				Wakefield MA
outhouse: frank@contex.com, 617-245-4100x5572		018801285
From: exuptr@exu.ericsson.se (Patrick Taylor)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Engine Swap - 73 Chevy
Date: 15 Dec 92 00:13:55 GMT
Organization: Ericsson Network Systems, Inc.
X-Disclaimer: This article was posted by a user at Ericsson.
              Any opinions expressed are strictly those of the
              user and not necessarily those of Ericsson.

In article <3403.88.uupcb@chaos.lrk.ar.us> dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) writes:
>From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
>Subject: Engine Swap - 73 Chevy
>Date: 12 Dec 92 13:36:00 GMT


>->    I drive a 1973 Chevy Malibu and I'm planning on doing an engine
>-> swap in the near future.  It currently has the 250 inline 6 in it
>-> with a turbo 350 trans.  What I'm looking for is suggestions as
>-> toward what size engine I should look to.  I love the idea of putting
>-> in a V-6 (I know, its wierd) but the mechanics would probably prove
>-> too difficult sooo.. I'm probably going to go with a small block of
>-> some size.

> Peculiar.  The Chevy 229 or 262 V6 uses the same bolt pattern and motor
>mounts as the 262-400 V8.  The swap would be practically identical to a
>V8 swap - hoses, exhaust pipes, mounts, throttle linkage.

> The '73 is a big honker car.  Why not an appropriate engine, like a
>454?
>                     

Do a small block 350 or 400.  The 400 has a few design problems, but it
can be fun.
 ----------------------!!! H A P P Y   H O L I D A Y S !!!-------------------
 ObQuotes:
 "Igornance and prejudice, confident their ways are best..."
 "Quick to judge, quick to anger, slow to understand..."

  - Patrick Taylor, Ericsson Network Systems
    exuptr@exu.ericsson.se                    "Don't let the .se fool you"
    Visit the SOUNDING BOARD BBS 214-596-2915, a Wildcat! BBS
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: steng@cbnewsj.cb.att.com (william.h.stenger)
Subject: Ford VAN Ignition Troubles....Computer maybe?
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 18:49:31 GMT
Keywords: FORD, COMPUTER


I've got a strange Ford Van trouble....


Two weeks ago my Ford Van died after turing on the heater.
It was warmed up and running at 35 MPH when it happened.

Diagnostics with a timing light showed no spark was being produced.

I replaced the magnetic pickup on the distributor, with no change.


After alot of head scratching and diddling around, I disconnected the
computer.

When I disconnect the computer, I get a spark....with it connected,
no spark....


1) Anyone experience this trouble?
2) Was the computer really the trouble?




Help!    I like to program, but I hate computers on cars!!!!!




Bill Stenger      ATT Bell Labs, Holmdel NJ    (908) 949-0730
		  attmail!stenger   - or -   hogpa!whs
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: antu@field.fi (Antero Markkula)
Subject: Re: Extending engine life--Block heaters (was Re: Oil Priming System)
Organization: Field Oy, Helsinki, Finland, Europe
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 09:39:47 GMT


In my country (as well as the other Nordic countries) a block heater
has been used for decades.  It is normally connected to one of the
freeze expansion bulbs in the cylinder block.  Some are connected
to water hoses, but these are not as reliable because of two hose
connections to leak instead of one insulator/metal connection.

In air cooled cars like VW Beetles, this heater is connected to the
oil drain plug hole.  I have had a few of these with no problem of
overheated oil.

The typical power of the engine block heater is 550W.
In many cases there is another, often adjustable, heater inside
the passenger compartment.  The power is adjustable between
450W and 1800W depending of the power available.

In my -86 Caprice I use 900W inside and 550W in the engine 
max. two hours to get all the windows clean and motor warm.

-there are some more intelligent systems, too, which allow 
automatic battery charging at the same time

Antero Markkula                                      E-Mail: antu@field.FI
Product Manager / Motorola microprocessors           Telex : 122022 field sf
		 Field Oy, Finland                   Fax   : +358 0 798853
                                                     Phone : +358 0 757 1011
"We are what we are and it's never enough" - Chris de Burgh
-- 
Antero Markkula                                      E-Mail: antu@field.FI
Product Manager / Motorola microprocessors           Telex : 122022 field sf
		 Field Oy, Finland                   Fax   : +358 0 798853
                                                     Phone : +358 0 757 1011
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Engine Swap - 73 Chevy
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 12 Dec 92 13:36:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


->    I drive a 1973 Chevy Malibu and I'm planning on doing an engine
-> swap in the near future.  It currently has the 250 inline 6 in it
-> with a turbo 350 trans.  What I'm looking for is suggestions as
-> toward what size engine I should look to.  I love the idea of putting
-> in a V-6 (I know, its wierd) but the mechanics would probably prove
-> too difficult sooo.. I'm probably going to go with a small block of
-> some size.

 Peculiar.  The Chevy 229 or 262 V6 uses the same bolt pattern and motor
mounts as the 262-400 V8.  The swap would be practically identical to a
V8 swap - hoses, exhaust pipes, mounts, throttle linkage.

 The '73 is a big honker car.  Why not an appropriate engine, like a
454?
From: dcrocker@cisco.com (Dan Crocker)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Oller Bros., Sunnyvale???
Date: 15 Dec 92 20:33:03 GMT
Distribution: ba
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL7]

Anyone had experience with a car repair place called Oller Bros. in
Sunnyvale, CA?  If so, please tell me whether or not you were satisfied 
with the work they did.  Thanks.

Dan

PS. By the way, I have tried to limit the distribution to the San Francisco
Bay area.  I won't know if I was successful until I see the posting. Please 
don't flame me if you see this in some other place (where it obviously doesn't
apply).
From: leonglaw@hpsgm2.sgp.hp.com (Lawrence LEONG)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1992 08:42:05 GMT
Subject: Re: When I turn, it gets noisy.....
Organization: HP Singapore