From: pooder@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (Don Fearn)
Subject: Long winter's nap . . .
Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1992 18:01:53 GMT
Reply-To: pooder@msus1.msus.edu
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM Rochester

It would seem to be the time of year for those of us who can't ride year
around to think about putting our motorcycles down for a nap.  I put
Harvey in last weekend, and Gretchen will probably be put in next week.

Re-posted below is the most complete guide to preparing a motorcycle for
winter storage I have ever seen.  Thank you, Ron Miller.



Ron's Encyclopedia of  Motorcycle Storage

The following list applies only for "Winter" storage. For multi-year
storage, more must be done.

MATERIAL REQUIRED:

A Brain equipped with reasonable care and caution
Motor oil & filter (correct type & qty etc)
2 stroke oil (or equiv.)
(optional: Stabil gasoline stabilizer)
pan to catch drained gasoline
compressed air source or tire pump
2 foot (or more) section of small aquarium tubing (clean!)
brake fluid and bleeding equipment (if desired)
battery trickle-charger
assorted hand tools and rags
place to work, place to store battery


PROCEDURE:

1. Wash & wax it. (Makes you more likely to want to ride it later though
    that usually isn't a problem.....:-)

2.  Run it around enough to get it hot. This burns off the wash water and
    will warm up the motor oil nicely. Going to the gas station for a fillup
    across town should do.  Fill the gas tank with highest quality gas you
    can find.

   Return to storage/work site.

   (Try to store it indoors. Outdoor storage is the pits. Rent a U-Store-It
    if necessary. If outside is unavoidable, use a breathable cover vs.
    plastic or vinyl. )


3. Shutoff the gas petcock and drain the gas from the carb bowls.
   (there are usually drain screws.)

    I usually just top off the tank and drain the carbs. No fussing with
     tank contents. (I've given myself trouble from that.)
      *****************************************************************
       This is the single most important  step in the whole list! This
       determines whether the bike will start next time or not.
       Clean motor oil doesn't matter if the damn thing can't be made
       to run!
       *****************************************************************
   Additionaly  you can:
     Add STABIL gasoline stabilizer to the tank if you wish.
      **OR** Drain the tank completely, then add some light oil and slosh it
      all round the inside to coat the inner wall of the tank to prevent rust
       (gotta remove the tank to do this.)

  ==> If you have a fuel-injected bike, you're on your own!!!

  ==> A word about petcocks- There seem to be two basic types: the
      traditional ON/OFF/RES type and the vacuum actuated types where
      the petcock is off only by the balance of a vacuum diaphragm and
      spring arrangement. Vacuum petcocks are a potential source of ON
      even if they aren't supposed to be.  A little bit of leakage past
      these guys can gunk your carbs pretty badly. If I were the owner
      of such a petcock(attached to a motorcycle) , I'd disconnect the
      fuel line from the carbs and
      add a long length of plugged line from the petcock and route it up
      to the area of the mirrors and secure the line in place. (note that
      hose end is not below tank level in event of problem)

       OR you could completely drain the tank. Your choice.

4. Change the oil and filter while warm.
    (Used oil has some acids formed in it. Water too.
     Fresh oil good. Used oil bad.)

5. Put a teaspoon or so of 2-stroke oil (or Marvel Mystery Oil(note 1) in each
   cylinder via the sparkplug hole. (Clean the area around the plug of
    grit/sand/mung before opening the hole. I usually use Simple Green
    or GUNK on the spark plugs with the wires removed and heavy rinse during
    the wash to clean this stuff up. Some folks use compressed air.
    Be careful, a piece of sand under a valve could cause it to burn later.)

      - I use a section of clear aquarium tubing to suck up some oil from
        the container and then blow it into the cylinder. Yes, by mouth.
        (don't pull the oil very far up the tubing!)

   Turn the engine over a couple of times to distribute the oil inside the
    engine cylinder.
     (Works better when plugs are out and this step goes before removing
       battery)

   Reinstall plugs loosely. Leave plug wires routed loosely.
      (You should consider having new plugs available for next year.)

6. Remove the battery to a place where you will remember to trickle-charge it
   at least monthly. (recording when you've charged it on a piece of
paper near
   the battery will help you remember how neglectful you're being :-)

   Even if you don't care about the battery, remove it. If it freezes
   (32F, 0C) while the battery is discharged, the case will crack and spill
   acid on your frame.

7.Inflate the tires about 5 psi over spec **OR** better yet, block the bike
  up so there is no weight on the wheels.

8. Change the brake fluid. It's easy and can prevent corrosion which
   could result in sticking/dragging brakes later.
   (This should be an annual event regardless of storage.)

9.  Wipe down the fork legs with Marvel oil and leave enough to
    keep the fork seals moist.

10. Lube the suspension (if grease fittings)

11. Do other lube jobs if you are so inclined. (cables, pivots, etc)

12. Put some kind of note to yourself on speedo that says:

        Battery Removed          Spark Plugs loose
                 Tire pressure

       to remind yourself what you'll need to do to go riding.

13. While bike is in storage, try to operate controls occasionally.
   (Clutch, brakes) If bike has weight on tires, try to roll the bike
   to a different tire position occasionally.
================================================================
Return to Service:

1. Check battery electrolyte level and give it a good final charge.
2. Unblock wheels.
3. Reset tire pressure to  riding level.
4. Reinstall battery.
5. Remove spark plugs. Roll engine over several times with starter
   to circulate motor oil.
     (Probably should ground spark plug wires to engine head while doing
      this. Some electronic ignitions get an electrical form of "blue balls"
      and break if they can't discharge 8-)
6. Reinstall plugs and plug wires.
7. Turn on tank petcock (listen for tank gurgling as carbs fill).
    For vacuum operated petcocks, you may have to provide some vacuum
      to get the valve to shift. Some may have a "PRIME" position.
      (If you don't know what I'm talking about, Step #8 may solve.)
8. Choke engine and attempt to start. Use "cold start" procedure.
   On the other hand, don't be surprised if you flood it once before it
   starts.......
    (Don't forget to give starter a good rest between crankings.
     20 seconds maximum cranking with 3 minute or more cooldown )
9. Be patient. It will probably take several tries.
   Ensure there is gas getting to the carbs. (Esp. if you don't understand
   #7)
   It might take running the battery down and recharging before it will
    light off. (My '82 CB900F was like this.It *shouldn't* be this hard.
    My BMW and my Yamaha usually only require about 4 tries.)

    It'll smoke awhile as the cylinder oil goes away. Should also stink
    from hot dust on the exhaust pipes.:-) It may not run on all cylinders
   for a couple of minutes.....

10. Install new spark plugs. The ones you just started up on may be
    oil-fouled.

11. Perform thorough pre-ride inspection. (You might find some
    strange rodent nesting locations.)

12. Go ride. Battery probably needs charging :-))

=====================================================================
I've had good luck storing bikes and cars for up to 7 months at a time
with these methods. (US Navy deployments and winter storage of bikes
here in Colorado).

Ron Miller

Note 1: Marvel Mystery oil is a very light naptha-based machine oil
        with wintergreen and a little phosphorous in it. Many lightplane
        owners use it as a gasoline additive. It burns pretty clean in
        small quantities and isn't as gimmicky as it sounds.




-- 

   Pooder  -  Rochester, MN   -  DoD #591  -  LotN (Loser of the Number) 
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  "What Do *You* Care What Other People Think?" -- Richard Feynman 
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   I share garage space with:   Gretchen - '86 K75   Harvey - '72 CB500  
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