HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: babineau@bnr.ca (Michael Babineau)
Subject: Re: Scott Drop-In Bar Creak-Creak
Reply-To: babineau@bmerh812.BNR.CA
Organization: BNR Ottawa, DMS Software Design
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 14:05:13 GMT

|> on Mon, 14 Sep 1992 17:41:06 GMT,
|> tye@elvis.mit.edu (Tye Brady) said:
|> >> My 92 scott Drop-In bars give an annoying click whenever a fair amount  
|> >> pressure is put on either side of the bar, say like in an out of the  
|> >> saddle climb or while sprinting.

I have the same problem with a Brahama Bar (T6-6061 Aluminum) on my Paramount
70. I found it very annoying at first but I don't even notice it now. 
I was told by someone that this is common in cromoly-aluminum junctions, 
but I have no idea how to correct/prevent it.
-- 
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
|Michael Babineau           | BITNET: babineau@BNR.CA                    |
|Bell Northern Research Ltd.| UUCP  : ..!uunet!bnrgate!bmerh812!babineau |
|Ottawa, ON. CANADA         |         ..!psuvax!BNR.CA.bitnet!babineau   |
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: klee@wsl.dec.com (Ken Lee)
Subject: Re: rear derraileur hangar broke
Reply-To: klee@wsl.dec.com
Organization: DEC Western Software Laboratory
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 92 01:05:12 GMT

|> He said that the rear hangar is made of a 'special alloy'. Does anyone
|> know what the real deal is?

Bending your hanger, usually the after effect or hitting a corner
somewhat too too fast, is a common problem.  I know some aluminum bikes
use bolt on hangers for this reason.  I wouldn't be suprised if the
Fisher hanger was a special alloy.

-- 
Ken Lee
DEC Western Software Laboratory, Palo Alto, Calif.
Internet: klee@wsl.dec.com
uucp: uunet!decwrl!klee
From: rjking@acsu.buffalo.edu (Randall J. King)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: hyperglide vs. regular (a newbie)
Date: 11 Sep 92 20:58:03 GMT
Organization: UB

What exactly is the difference between a hyperglyde chain and a regular?
Are they different sizes (link wise)?
What are the advantages/disadvantages to the chain?

Just wandering...
Randall King                rjking@acsu.buffalo.edu		<-Unix
University of Buffalo       v050qrq3@ubvms.cc.buffalo.edu	<-VAX-Personal
Buffalo, NY      	    acscrjk@ubvms.cc.buffalo.edu	<-VAX-Work
**           All opinions are my own, unless otherwise stated               **
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: freshair@iastate.edu (James W Gregory)
Subject: How do cyclocomputers perform in cold weather?
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames IA
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 17:52:12 GMT

How well do cyclocomputers perform in cold (0 F) weather?  Will they work 
at all?  The instruction manual for my Vetta C20 says it is good to about 32 F
(I think).  Since I spend about 1/4 of my riding time each year at or below 
this temp, will it still work?  No doubt the display will be "slow"--i.e.,
the elements in the LCD display will be slow to change due to the cold temp.
But will it still record miles and elapsed time?  Also, is there any problem 
with ice/snow build-up on the sensor(s)?

-Jim

-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jim Gregory      freshair@iastate.edu    |  "10,000 lemmings can't be wrong"
Dept. of Plant Pathology, ISU (by day)   |          - anonymous
Fresh Aire Delivery Services (by night/weekends)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: c9223585@cc.newcastle.edu.au (THE PERSISTANT DEVIL)
Subject: Re: bike suspension news?
Organization: University of Newcastle, AUSTRALIA
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 1992 05:20:08 GMT

In article <1992Sep3.173238.1545@mnemosyne.cs.du.edu>, scweddel@nyx.cs.du.edu (scott weddel) writes:
> 
> What's the state of the art in bike suspensions?  I've heard a little about
> the existence, but haven't found many people to know it exists.
> What's available and what are the going rates?
> 
> Scott Weddel   strider   Apple /// aficionado   eeidscw@engvms.unl.edu
>     Sterling Rider       ^^^ Amiga too !  ^^^   UNLincoln Nebraska USA
> 
>
I just built up a 91 cannondale EST...
And from first experiances it works!!!

-TIM
 
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: scherrer@ifi.unizh.ch (Stefan Scherrer)
Subject: Re: drum brakes
Reply-To: scherrer@ifi.unizh.ch
Organization: University of Zurich, Department of Computer Science
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 10:36:32 GMT

Thoughts of an amateur technician:

I feel the most specific advantage of drum brakes (they get much lesser wet than rim brakes) and the hydraulic idea are very decently manifested in disc brakes.
Hydraulic always means high pressure on the medium and thus only makes sense, if you have a corresponding anti-force reacting to the brake force. I definitly would not like to see my rear hub to act as anti-force!

As aforementioned: forget the integral function unless some kind of ABS exists...

Could someone from University of Hannover point out how hydraulic drumbrakes could principially work???

Cheers, Stefan.

---
Stefan Scherrer                         Phone   : +41 1 257 45 76 
Institut fuer Informatik                Fax     : +41 1 363 00 35
Universitaet Zuerich                    Telex   : 817 251 unii ch 
Winterthurerstrasse 190                 EAN     : scherrer@ifi.unizh.ch
CH-8057 Zuerich, Switzerland 
---
My opinion does not reflect the opinions of my employees...

From: budn@hpmwtd.sr.hp.com (Bud Noren)
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 15:41:16 GMT
Subject: Re: Re: : Do frames wear out?
Organization: HP Santa Rosa Site (NMD MTA MWTD)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech

MEDELMA@cms.cc.wayne.edu (Michael Edelman) writes:

>And we all know that the pros get new frames every year because the old
>ones get soft...whereas it's a little more reasonable to assume that
>they get new bikes because it's easier than replacing every part on
>a frame with new, unworn parts, stripping the frame, doing Zyglo,
>Magniflux and x-ray checks for cracks and broken welds and joints,
>and repainting the frame. Especially if your frames and gruppos
>are supplied by sponsors, eh?

I have the more cynical view that they get new frames every year because
the bike manufacturers want the pros to be seen on their latest, hottest,
most expensive frames.  Same for the parts manufacturers.  Pro racing is
an advertising showcase.

-Bud
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: harry@cv.hp.com (Harry Phinney)
Subject: Re: Do frames wear out?
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 18:49:11 GMT

legolas@daimi.aau.dk (Anders Jacob Truelsen) writes:
: harry@cv.hp.com (Harry Phinney) writes:
: 
: >The metals will not change stiffness
:  ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
: >through use, but can eventually suffer fatigue failure (i.e. it breaks).
: ^^^^^^^^^^^^
: CrMo (and Hi-Ten) _do_ change stiffness through use. The fatigue will
: make the frame more flexible.

I would appreciate a reference for your claim that the modulus of
elasticity of a metal will change in response to cyclical fatigue
loading.  I do not believe you will be able to provide one, as I have
never seen any documentation of such an effect, and I have studied the
subject.  Even drastic cold working and heat treatment do not change the
modulus of elasticity of a metal.  This means that even if a frame is
loaded such that the stresses exceed the metal's yield point, the metal
will still not change in "stiffness".

: Carbon is suposed NOT to change stiffness. 

Really?  The bonds between the matrix and fibers _never_ deteriorate,
and the individual fibers _never_ break?  While I can believe that a
carbon fiber frame might retain its stiffness through multiple human
lifetimes of use, I strongly suspect that it is still more susceptible
to such change than are metals.

Harry Phinney   harry@hp-pcd.cv.hp.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: MTB Bar Ends vs Scott Bars
From: news@massey.ac.nz (USENET News System)
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 92 01:49:47 GMT
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech
Organization: SMIS, Massey University

maarrrk@seidel.ucsb.edu (Mark Erickson) wrote:
> 
> Scott MTB handlebars (the ones with the integral bar ends, like
> the AT-3) appear to be much lighter than the combined weight
> of regular bars and bar ends.  
> 
> Anybody have a good reason to go with regular bars/ends rather than
> the Scotts?

I could not have a computer mounted on the bars and have a comfortable
"standard" hand position with AT-3s.  The shop swapped them for the
original bars and the Onza alloy bar ends with a similar shape (which cost
about the same as the Scotts).  Now my bars are narrower overall AND I have
more room for my hands.  The Onzas are really light too, so I doubt if it
has cost me much weight, if any.

--
Phil Etheridge               P.Etheridge@massey.ac.nz
Macintosh Consultant         Phone: +64+6-356-9099 x8689
SMIS, Massey University      Fax:   +64+6-350-5611
Palmerston North, NZ         40*23'S 175*37'E,    GMT+12
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: whalen@starch.enet.dec.com (Rich Whalen)
Subject: Upgrading a bike
Reply-To: whalen@starch.enet.dec.com (Rich Whalen)
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation, Shrewsbury, MA
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 14:32:22 GMT


I have a mountain bike which has non-indexed (5 speed) shifting.
I'd like to upgrade it to indexed shifting (I'm spoiled by my road bikes)
and I'm wondering what I'll need to buy and where I might find it.  Price
is important, otherwise I'd just buy a new bike.

------------------------------------------------------
Rich Whalen

You don't know where these bits have been!
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: josh@Happy-Man.com (Joshua_Putnam)
Subject: Re: Removing frozen freewheel
Reply-To: Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com
Organization: Happy Man Corp., Vashon Island, WA 98070-7399
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 18:16:51 GMT

In <1992Sep10.172338.21373@walter.cray.com> bschwart@gath.cray.com (Robert J. Schwartz) writes:

> 4. Pitch the entire mess. You may someday break another spoke.

Instead of tossing it all, I'd get a pair of chain
whips and pull off the cogs -- they should still be good
and can be used for replacing worn cogs, setting up
non-standard freewheels, etc.  
-- 
 Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com    Happy Man Corp.  206/463-9399 x102
 4410 SW Pt. Robinson Rd., Vashon Island, WA  98070-7399  fax x108
 We publish SOLID VALUE for the intelligent investor.  NextMail OK
Info free; sample $20: Send POSTAL addr: Solid-Value@happy-man.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: babineau@bnr.ca (Michael Babineau)
Subject: Bike Computers and Suspension Forks
Reply-To: babineau@bmerh812.BNR.CA
Organization: BNR Ottawa, DMS Software Design
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 14:27:47 GMT

What do you folks out there with Suspension forks on your Mountain Bike 
do about mounting the pickup for your bike computer.
I don't own a suspension fork (yet) so I haven't run into this problem.
I'm just curious.

Is it possible to mount the pickup on the fixed part of the fork?             
I would guess that this might cause a problem with attaching the magnet
in the spokes as it would have to be mounted fairly close to the rim to
line up with the pickup. Am I wrong?? 
The magnets I have seen are designed to attach at the point where the
spokes cross. 

I guess that one could always mount the pickup on the rear wheel, but 
this would require a longer run of wire and the associated routing 
problems.


-- 
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
|Michael Babineau           | BITNET: babineau@BNR.CA                    |
|Bell Northern Research Ltd.| UUCP  : ..!uunet!bnrgate!bmerh812!babineau |
|Ottawa, ON. CANADA         |         ..!psuvax!BNR.CA.bitnet!babineau   |
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: rlewis@muskwa.ucs.ualberta.ca (Robert Lewis)
Subject: Re: Folding tires & straight sided rims
Organization: University Of Alberta, Edmonton Canada
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 18:10:36 GMT

koichi@unixg.ubc.ca (Koichi J Kishimoto) writes:

>I'm thinking of getting a set of folding tires (Kevlar bead) for
>my MTB (Araya CV7 rims) . I understand, however, that folding 
>tires shouldn't be used on straight sided rims (as opposed to 
>hook beaded rims). Is this true?

As a general rule, you are right, you shouldn't.  However, there is a
lot of variablity here, for example, on a tandem we used to have had
drop centre rims (i.e., 'straight sided rims') and when, in ignorance,
we put foldable tires (27" Michelin Hi-Lite Tours) they would stay on
the back rim but blow off of the front, despite the fact that they were
the same model of rim (it was due to the rim variation not tire, we
checked that).  The only visable difference in the rims was that the 
front had been slightly scraped up from a crash.  You will not, however,
probably be able to tell if the tires will hold until you have ridden a
short way, so you will not be able to take the tires back to where you
bought them.  It doesn't seem worth the risk to me, the only advantages,
as far as I can see, to folding tires is 1) all other things being
equel, they will be a bit lighter (how important is this for MTBers? 
and if weight is paramount one could accomplish this by using a 
different tire), 2) it is easier to bring along a spare tire.  
However, one can take along a non-foldling tire, it's just not as 
neat.  The other advantages to wire beads (i.e., non-folding tires) 
is that they are cheaper, easier to change, and safer at high 
pressures and on long descents.

Robert M. Lewis
Department of Sociology
University of Alberta
Edmonton, Alberta
Canada
From: r.g.olsen@att.com (Ron Olsen)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Scott AT2-LF bars
Date: 15 Sep 92 18:26:05 GMT
Reply-To: r.g.olsen@att.com
Organization: AT&T Bell Labs, Denver CO

Tony Apuzzo writes about Scott AT2-LF bars:

> In case anyone cares, Bike Pro (1-800-BIKE-PRO) sells 'em for $67US

I got my Scott AT2-LF bars from Airborn MTB (406-728-6252) for $50.
They only had the 21.5" width, however.

	Ron Olsen
	Boulder, Colorado
	r.g.olsen@att.com
Xref: sparky rec.bicycles.tech:450 rec.bicycles.misc:389
From: casseres@apple.com (David Casseres)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech,rec.bicycles.misc
Subject: Re: handlebar taping technique
Date: 11 Sep 92 23:36:21 GMT
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech
Organization: Apple Computer Inc.

In article <1992Sep8.215847.14974@tamsun.tamu.edu>, glp7584@tamuts.tamu.edu
(Gordon Lee Powell Jr) wrote:

> When taping a handlebar with the adhesive cotton type of tape, 
> (assuming taping from bar ends to center), what the devil is the
> best way to end the tape job?
> 
> I used to (in the years past) rely on Benotto plastic tape, and 
> tape from the center to the ends, tucking the free end of tape in
> the handlebar end.  I have been advised that cotton tape should be
> wrapped from the ends toward the center to avoid rolling the edges
> of the tape with use.  
> 
> Here are some friends suggestions:
> 1.  use a bit of contact cement on the end of the tape, and cover
>     with a bit of plastic tape, like is done with padded tapes these
>     days.

I did this for years, but the plastic tape always winds up creeping and
exposing sticky stuff.

> 2.  whip the center section of the handlebar at the end of the tape
>     like you would do to keep rope from unraveling. (whipping refers
>     to wrapping the end of a rope with thin cord, not to alternative
>     forms of sexual activity)

With flat tape, such as Benotto or cotton, I think this would be extremely
elegant and good-looking, especially with a bit of fancy cockscombing on
the whipping.  But I've never gotten around to trying it.

> 3.  end the wrapping of cotton tape on the underside of the handle
>     bar and then, using needle and nylon thread, sew the end to
>     the previous layer of cotton tape.

Too much hassle.


> What, if any, is the general consensus on this matter?

I'm sure there is none.  But I've just adopted a great 4th alternative,
which I learned from Eric House:  Cut two short lengths of innertube (28C -
38C size).  Disconnect your brake cables from the levers and take the
levers off the bars.  Pull a piece of innertube over each bar, with the
brake cable passing through it, and then reassemble the levers and cables. 
Now, on each handlebar you have a rubber collar near the stem, with the
brake cable passing through it.  Wind your tape up to the rubber, and then
secure it by pulling the rubber over it.

This method involves no extra adhesives, and works with any kind of bar
tape.  Getting the rubber pieces in place is a hassle the first time, but
only has to be done once.  The result looks very clean, and it's very easy
to change tape, or take it off, clean it, and rewrap it in the case of
non-adhesive tapes.

--

David Casseres
Exclaimer: Wow!
From: philg@zurich.ai.mit.edu (Philip Greenspun)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Yet another headset question
Date: 10 Sep 92 20:33:37 GMT
Reply-To: philg@martigny.ai.mit.edu
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech
Organization: M.I.T. Artificial Intelligence Lab.
In-reply-to: truesdel@ics.uci.edu's message of 10 Sep 92 16:28:29 GMT


I have an old Raleigh Super Course (about $500 back in 1977, made with
full Reynolds 531 tubing) that my sister trashed and then had tuned-up
by a bike shop so competent they replaced the tires and returned the
bike with one Presta and one Schrader valve!

Thus, here I have a bike fresh from a "tune-up" and whenever I ride it
over a bump or bounce it on the ground there is a rattle from the
headset.  Does this mean I have to take the headset apart and repack
the bearings or can I just tighten the moby nut on top?

Thanks,

Philip Greenspun
MIT Department of EECS

Is this bike worth tinkering with?  Are new road bikes so much better
that I should trash this one instead of constantly trying to make up
for its aging componentry (my sister left it outside in sand and rain
storms in Egypt for one year).
From: falcao@felix.metaphor.com (Ronnie Falcao)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Miyata women's saddle
Date: 8 Sep 92 18:37:03 GMT
Distribution: ba
Organization: Metaphor Computer Systems, Mountain View, CA

In article <jtrn!kn.tssmith@netcom.com> tssmith@netcom.com (Tim Smith) writes:
>If you ride long distances (say, more than 70 miles a ride), try an
>all-leather saddle.  I'd recommend an Ideale 80, a Brooks B15, or a
>Brooks B17.  If you don't want to take my word for it, listen to Lon
>Haldeman (ex-RAAM record holder).  He has used a Brooks B15 on his
>rides, and has done one or two long ones.
>
>Leather saddles are still available from your pro bike shop by
>special order, or from Cyclo-Pedia (800.678.1021 or 517.263.5803). 
>Lickton's may have them too, but I don't have their phone number (try
>800.555.1212).  Forget Performance or Nashbar or CC, they don't stock
>this traditional stuff.
>
>--Tim (tssmith@netcom.com)


I also prefer a leather saddle and personally use a Brooks B72.
It's wide, with springs.

I've gotten them on a few days' notice from Joselyn's Bicycles,
at Miramonte and Cuesta in Mountain View.  415-968-1363
They're pretty good about calling around and figuring out
who's got them in stock.  I serendipitously ran across (and
bought) a couple at PABikes last winter.

	- Ronnie

falcao@metaphor.com

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: arnie@col.hp.com (Arnie Berger)
Subject: Re: Do frames wear out?
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 22:33:13 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division

jeff@is.s.u-tokyo.ac.jp (Jeff McAffer) writes:
> 
> As sort of a follow on to the frame materials summary I would like to
> know what people think about the following:
> 
> Do frames wear out?  
> If so, how do you tell if your frame is worn out?
> Is there a major difference in durability between CrMo, Carbon, Al?



I agree with Harry Phinney's respone to this basenote. Unless a steel frame
breaks due to fatigue failure, weld failure, braze failure or corrosion,
it will be just as stiff up to the end. If it rusts away from the inside
out, you would probably notice a loss of stiffness due to the bike being
held together by a thin shell of clearcoat and decals :-) .

On the other hand, composite bikes can exhibit loss of stiffness with use.
In fact, this is the deterioration mechanism. The carbon fibers that are 
normally embedded in an epoxy matrix gradually break free of the matrix and
become loose. A side benefit to this phenomenon is that composite frames
should have excellent damping characteristics due to the hysteresis energy
loss as the frame flexes. The vibrational energy traveling through the frame
gets absorbed by the fibers separating from the matrix. 

Its hard to say how big this effect is. It was well known in the early
composite, fiberglass-epoxy skis. I believe that most of the frame failures
that are occuring with composite frames are due to fairly major structural 
failures. We really don't have enough use history of composite bikes to make
a determination of their longevity. 

                                                       Arnie


  
-- 
Arnie Berger
arnie@hplsdvt
Telnet 590-5642
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: spesau@acs.ucalgary.ca (Shane P Esau)
Subject: Re: Freewheel Cluster Spacing
Summary: Ultegra 7 and 8 speed 
Date: Wed, 09 Sep 92 16:49:33 GMT
Organization: The University of Calgary, Alberta

It should also be noted that if you want to change from Ultegra 7
to Ultegra 8 speed you can do this in steps which allow you to do
this in an interval fashion.  What I mean is that you can get a
wheel built with Ultegra 8 speed hub and freewheel, and still use
your Ultegra 7 speed derailler (except that you do not hae access
to the largest rear cog).  Then at a later date, you can get the
derailler and shifter changed.  I went this way as I could not
afford the $300 to do the whole thing at once, but $150 each time
was managable, and now I have an 8 speed.

Shane Esau
From: rgo@druhi.att.com (Ron Olsen)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Tool for Shimano sealed bottom brackets
Date: 11 Sep 92 21:06:26 GMT
Reply-To: r.g.olsen@att.com
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech
Organization: AT&T Bell Labs, Denver CO

TOM@SLACVM.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU writes:

|> As far as looking at the construction
|> of the UN-50 and the big brother UN-70, I see no difference except that the
|> body is machined thinner on the outside of the shell.  You still have to
|> buy the tool to insert, which cost $15.00.

You can buy the Park BBT-1 tool for Shimano UN-50 and UN-70
sealed-cartridge bottom brackets for $8 from Nashbar.

	Ron Olsen
	Boulder, Colorado
	r.g.olsen@att.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Ultegra Short Reach Brake Levers
From: <JONQC@CUNYVM.BITNET>
Date: Friday, 4 Sep 1992 20:59:08 EDT
Organization: City University of New York/ University Computer Center

> From: kenl@origami.NoSubdomain.NoDomain (Ken Lehner)
> Does anyone have any info on the compatibility of Ultegra short reach
> brake levers (the ones for small hands) and Campy Athena brake calipers?
>
> Are there any other short reach levers around?

I never heard of Ultegra levers for small hands.

On the bike that I just built for my wife, I used Dia Compe AGC 252
levers.  These are compact aero levers for small hands.  Since they
have been discontinued for a couple of years now, I had to have my
local bike shop special order them.  They cost me $30/pair.

John Leong
JON@QCVAXA.BITNET
JONQC@CUNYVM.BITNET
From: truesdel@ics.uci.edu (R. Scott Truesdell)
Subject: Re: Question on Headsets!!Help
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Organization: University of California, Irvine
Date: 10 Sep 92 16:28:29 GMT
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech


Loctite can only temporarily fix the problem.
Something that will work longer term is a clamping lock nut offered by
several companies like OnZa. The lock nut is thicker and is cut in one
place from ID to OD and held tight by a set screw. It works like a
high-tech hose clamp. This solution is, at least, removable without
resorting to torches...

  --scott
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech