HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: sbixby@cup.portal.com (Steven W Bixby)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Glider/Submarine
Date: Thu,  8 Oct 92 10:41:47 PDT
Organization: The Portal System (TM)
Distribution: na

<sad story 'bout swimming airplane deleted>

>It all still seems to work,  but for some reason, the auto-cutoff on the
>electric motor doesn't work.  I'm using the Futaba 4NBL-E radio with
>the built-in speed controller.  It's supposed to cut off the motor when
>the bat voltage gets low, but it doesn't do it anymore.  Any guesses?
>It's all dry now, and everything else seems to work ok.  Another 
>funny thing is that the motor enable button doesn't work, either.
>The motor is not supposed to run until you press a button to enable
>it; it's a safety thing.  Now, it starts right up without pressing the 
>button.  Thanks for any suggestions.

The first is related to the second.  I have one of these rx/esc units
also, and if the enable switch is pressed even when the cutoff has gone
off, the motor will run, until you release the switch.  

I would suggest, if it hasn't dried out still, to replace the switch with
a new one.  Run a hair dryer on low temperature over all the components with
the cases off (servos, rx, battery) to remove any extra water.  Also, consider
spraying alcohol on the electronics (don't soak it, just enough to dampen it),
since alcohol asorbs water. Then hair-dryer it off.  Electronics should
come out quite ok.  The switch may be closed enough that the water can't
evaporate, and it's stayed short-circuited.

Again, it's easy enough to solder in a new switch.....

 -swb- (Steve Bixby - sbixby@cup.portal.com)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Hi-Start 
From: $stevee@sasb.byu.edu (Stephen Eldredge)
Date: 12 Oct 92 09:15:35 -0700

To throw or not to throw, this is the question.

	I think this question that could be answered either way depending on 
the hi-start, plane combination.  When I first started flying sailplanes off 
a hi-start six years ago, I built my own hi-start.  I used 30 feet of 3/8" 
OD surgical tubing and 250' of kite string with a bright rag tied to the 
end.  I still use this same configuration today.  With such heavy gauge 
tubing, it is not uncommon for me to pull 20-30lbs pressure on launches.  
With that strong of a pull, throwing the model is hardly an option.  
However, when I fly my 3m 5# Japanese LS-1 a little toss helps get the 
air flowing over the wings.  As mentioned before on some launchers a good 
toss could cause problems as the hi-start 'catches up'.  One or two runs up 
the hi-start in any combination should tell which technique is the best.  
The critical thing is that the model must be flying shortly after it leaves 
your hands.  To illustrate:(This will sound crazy but it sure was fun)
	I had a .25 size pattern plane given to me that I couldn't use and 
didn't have time to repair.  I couldn't just get rid of it though without 
having some fun.  I decided to attach a tow hook and see if I could launch 
it fast enough to fly.  A friend and I went to a deserted field, loaded the 
nose with rocks till the thing balenced and hooked it up.  We tied the hi-
start around a post-I'm sure the nail in the ground bit would not work-and 
streched the thing back as far as it would go.  I took a few running steps 
and threw this six pound unguided pile into the air.  To our surprize it 
flew several hundred yards before a spectacular impact with an embankment.  

The moral to this story is: Airspeed is the staff of life! In other words do 
what it takes to get enough speed for flight on a hi-start.  Techniques 
might even change from situation to situation.

Happy flying,
Steve E.
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: fisher@kay.enet.dec.com (kay::fisher)
Subject: S33 and S133 servos
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1992 05:17:20 GMT
X-Posted-Via: NEWS-NOTES gateway (a hack!)

>          <<< Note 154.0 by ::seanp@seanp "seanp@seanp.btv.ibm.com" >>>
>                           -< FUTABA Micro Servos  >-
>
>
>     I am thinking of getting a smaller glider ( I have a Gentle Lady ) but I 
>     will also need some micro servos for a Futaba Conquest 4FM.  I've seen 
>     the S133 and the S33 Micro servos but don't know
>     which is best or even what the difference is.  Any comments?? 

Easy question - they are the same.  S33's come with the old style connector
that used to be on the AM radios.  S133's come with the new "J" connector that
is now on all new Futaba radios.

So what you want for your Conquest FM is S133 servos - unless you can get
the S33 servos cheap and are handy with a soldering iron.

Bye          --+--
Kay R. Fisher  |
---------------O---------------
################################################################################
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: R/C Trucks for sale
From: doachs@next-1.gac.edu (Dan A Oachs)
Date: 16 Oct 92 16:13:15 -0600
Distribution: usa


I,m not positive that this is the correct place to post this, so if  
it is not , please kindly refer me to a better place.

Midknight pumpkin for sale
 Extra set of tires
 Monster mash motor
 Futuba 2pbk controller and mc112b speed controll
 Battery pack and Protec charger
  $130 ?
Mudblaster
 Trinity Monster Mash motor
 Hobbico charger
  $70 ?
Traxxis Sledgehammer (RTR version)
 Trinity Monster Mash motor
  $70 ?
Kyosho Outlaw Stadium race truck
 $?

Any questions pleasse mail to doachs@next-6.gac.edu

--Dan Oachs
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: koebrich@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (koebrich jeff)
Subject: one handed control + a foot
Summary: I need help figuring out control
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 00:19:48 GMT
Keywords: rc car racing for disabled

I am trying to find a control for rc race cars that will work with one hand
and possibly with one foot.  The boy I am helping has little use of his right
side and he wants to participate in rc car racing (his older brother does this).
I am nearly ignorant of the hobby but I am an electrical engineer so I could
make modifications to a control if necessary.  The parents are prepared to spend
up to about $500 for the car and the control.  From what I can gather most
controls are two handed.  One idea is to convert the speed control to a 
footswitch.  Another idea is to use an airplane control that combines speed
and direction control on one joystick.  

I am hoping that one of you out there in rc land knows of some off the shelf
control that will help this kid out.  Second best is advice on how to modify
a standard control.

Hope to hear something...

Jeff Koebrich 
UI Div. Rehab.
217-244-8265 (w)

I'll watch the news.
From: rexm@hpsad.sad.hp.com (Rex Musgrave)
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 20:21:30 GMT
Subject: Question about Sterling Reliant/Waco
Organization: HP Signal Analysis Division - Rohnert Park, CA
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc

I am now considering my third plane and would like to see if
any of you have had any experience with the models that seem
to catch my eye.

My first plane was a Goldberg Eaglet which served its purpose
in teaching me to fly. My second is a Great Planes Super Sportster
40 which  
pants off me on every flight. And so it is time to think ahead to
the winter building project.

It seems my eyes stop on the Sterling Reliant or the Sterling Waco
as I peruse the catalogs. Do any of you have experience in the 
building and or the flying of these planes? Any comments will be welcome.

Rex
From: dean@cbmvax.commodore.com (Jeff Dean - LSI Test)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Where did the single-stick transmitter go?
Date: 13 Oct 92 13:38:30 GMT
Reply-To: dean@cbmvax.UUCP (Jeff Dean - LSI Test)
Distribution: rec
Organization: Commodore Technology, West Chester, PA

Anybody know why single-stick radios seem to have died away?  I haven't seen
one in a magazine or catalog in years, and only one guy (an expert flyer) at
the local field uses them.  It seems to me a more natural way to fly, although
I haven't actually tried it.  How about pros/cons for this style of stick?

-- 
==============================================================================
|   |\ /|                                               Commodore Technology |
|   'O O`   Jeffrey Dean                                   1200 Wilson Drive |
|   > v <   VLSI Test and Design Assurance            West Chester, PA 19380 |
|     ^                                            dean@cbmvax.commodore.com |
==============================================================================
From: plumpe@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Plumpe)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Propellor Making
Date: 15 Oct 92 11:32:36 GMT
Reply-To: plumpe@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Plumpe)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.models.rc, guyer@khan.usc.edu (David Guyer) writes:
>  I've heard that there was an article a few years back, in Model Builder
>or Model Aviation that explained a process to make fiberglass or composite
>props.  I'd be interested in finding out which issue carried the article.

Dave -
    March 1986 'Model Aviation' had an article "Making Reinforced
Propellers" on page 42.  Perhaps that's the one.
-DaveP
From: wykes_n@kosmos.wcc.govt.nz
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Helicoper model shops in Vancouver
Date: 10 Oct 92 16:52:25 NZST
Organization: Welligton City Council, Public Access.
NNTP-Posting-Host: kosmos.wcc.govt.nz

Can anyone tell me where any helicopter model shops are in Vancouver, Canada. 

I will be visiting Vancouver in a couple of weeks and I would like to check out
prices and hopefully buy some parts.

I have a Concept 30 (if it makes any difference).

Thanks,
Andrew Roberts.
E-mail robertsa@fcnz.co.nz
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: mark@alf.cooper.edu (Mark_Balch-(EE'95))
Subject: Glow Plugs
Keywords: Glow Plug
Organization: The Cooper Union ( NY, NY )
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1992 16:32:56 GMT

Hello,

I'm a new commer to the world of RC flying and am looking for information 
on reliable glow plugs.  I've heard good things about Rossi and OS.  Rossi
is expensive though and OS doesn't exactly look cheap.  Are there any
alternatives or should I just bite the bullet and buy a bag of OS glow
plugs?  Thanks for your input.

Mark

Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: m14494@mwvm.mitre.org (Mike White)
Subject: Re: How fast should I launch my electric glider
Organization: The MITRE Corporation
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 16:08:08 GMT

Michel Adar writes:
> after leaving my hands the [Electra] was not stable at all...
> ...will behave better if I throw it harder...?
>... is [it] easy enough to do that with the transmitter in one hand
> and the 48 oz. glider in the other[?].

I fly an Electra too, and had the same problem at first.  I now throw
medium hard; I judge about one-third to half as hard as I could
throw it.  It flies away just fine.  I sometimes dial in a little
down/right trim, as the motor offset isn't quite enough at full
power, and the plane tends to nose-up and turn a bit.  Yes, it
takes a bit of coordination to do all this without dropping the 
transmitter, but it just takes a bit of practice.  Good luck.

************************
* These are my opinions only.*
************************
From: billg@hpspdla.spd.HP.COM (Bill Gingras)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Are There Shops in SF Area?
Date: 16 Oct 92 15:13:26 GMT
Organization: HP Stanford Park - Palo Alto, CA


See the local phone directory or hobby magazines for more information:

- PEC's Hobby Shop in Mountain View - Small shop.  Some car stuff.
Staff is very helpful.

- San Antonio Hobby Shop in Mountain View - Larger than PEC's, smaller
than sheldon's

- Sheldon's Hobby Shop in San Jose - Large. Several isles of car stuff.
Good prices.

- Bill G
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: chaffin@sab45.larc.nasa.gov (Mark Chaffin)
Subject: Midwest Sukoi 40 
Organization: NASA Langley Research Center, Hampton, VA  USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 13:14:47 GMT

I won the raffle at our club meeting last night.  It's a 
Midwest Sukoi 40.  I had looked at the kit earlier but
didn't like the flat fuselage sides.  Not really scale.
However, it might be fun to play with.  Does anyone out
there have any experience with this kit?  Looks pretty 
simple to build.  My only concern is the weight.  The
plans say 5-5.5 lbs.  I'd like to get it under 5 lbs if
possible.

BTW, did any of you make it to the East Coast IMAA fly-in
last weekend at Chesapeake, VA?  All flying was off a navy
emergency landing field.  Ohio R/C was there with their 
Sukoi.  19 lbs with 23 lbs of static thrust.  Torque rolls
all day.  Very impressive.  How do I become a company pilot. :)

mark
chaffin@sab45.larc.nasa.gov
-- 
/-\|/-\|/-\|/-\/-\|/-\/-\|/-\/-\|/-\/-\|/-\/-\|/-\/-\|/-\/-\|/-\/-\|/-\/-\|/
|            ____       _         Man plays only when he is in             -
\         | __\_\_o____/_|        the full sense of the word a             \
-         <[___\_\_-----<         man, and he is only wholly man           |
/         |  o'                   when he is playing.                      /
|                                       -Friedrich Schiller                \
\-/|\-/|\-/|\-/|\-/|\-/|\-/|\-/|\-/|\-/|\-/|\-/|\-/|\-/|\-/|\-/|\-/|\-/|\-/|
Xref: sparky rec.models.rc:4163 news.answers:3399
From: ch@eiaut2.tuwien.ac.at (Christian Kral)
Subject: Re: Heli-Boy 222 modifications
Organization: Technical University Vienna, AUSTRIA
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 10:34:04 GMT

I know only two Futaba gyros. An expensive version and one for "normal" use (good enough for learning it). The cheaper gyro has to be adjusted on ground (a good beginner value is about 8, then you can reduce it to 4 to 6), with the expert model you can change the gyro strength on flight. This is nessecary in speed fligth when the compass would over - compensate and the tail swings left and right.

To answer the 4 gyros: I gess there are only differences in the kind of bearings they have, but there is no need to get the "golden" models.

greetings

         Christian.
 (ch@eiaut2.tuwien.ac.at)
From: ck3i+@andrew.cmu.edu (Christopher Kristof)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Electric Motors/Gears/Props
Date: 9 Oct 92 21:12:16 GMT
Organization: Freshman, CIT general, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA


	What electric motor/gear box/prop combination gives the best thrust to
weight ratio?   How much surplus thrust could I expect from it?
	I'd like to use off-the-shelf electric model airplane motors to power a
small flying robot.  However, I have not been able to find a product
that has better than a 1:1 thrust to weight ratio. (taking into account
the batteries needed to power the motor)   I may be forced to use one or
more 2 cycle internal combustion engines.  How much thrust could I
expect from them?  I have a K&B .40  2 cycle from an R/C plane that I
never finished building.  How much thrust could I get out of it with an
optimal prop?
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib)
Subject: Re: fun-fly machines
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 22:18:58 GMT

In article <13019@ecs.soton.ac.uk> pge90@ecs.soton.ac.uk (Edwards PG) writes:

|    Over the summer I practised lots and lots and managed to achieve the SMAE
|(Society of Model Aeronautical Engineers) 'B' certificate.      

|    The object of which would allow me to participate in next years 
|national fun-fly championchips------

Wow! You need a license to fly fun-fly???

|  ATTENTION   AMERICA  ----   and everyone else 

|     I hear that there are some good fun-fly designs available in america
|could someone give me a quick review of the current happenings, 
|directions and plans available for this exciting branch of the rc world!!!


|  I have been flying a Smith Special which is basically a flying wing,
|a 'rod' fuz and about 3lbs in weight. I have also flown a Rara Avis
|which is sort of a lightened Wot 4 powered by a 40 engine.  

Well theres the GT Generix Fly Rod.. I only mention it because it used to 
be kitted by a good friend of mine, Doc Passen. Theres also a foamie he 
calls Cheap Sensation.

|I have been lucky enough to fly a wide assortment of fun-fly machines
|but I am always looking for something different and new----

Well they aren't exacly different or new.. just your typical sticks-and-
FasCal fun fly planks...but they impressed the heck out of me at the Mun-
cie Grand Opening. Never did see one of these things fly before. More 
like a leaf with a rocket attached than anything else.

|   Hope to hear exploits of other maniacs out there.

AMA Fast Combat crazy enough?  9-) 9-) 9-)




-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Iskandar Taib                          | The only thing worse than Peach ala
Internet: NTAIB@SILVER.UCS.INDIANA.EDU |    Frog is Frog ala Peach
Bitnet:   NTAIB@IUBACS                 !
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: mongoose@leland.Stanford.EDU (Ravi Halappa Konchigeri)
Subject: Are There Shops in SF Area?
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 92 22:53:47 GMT

	Is there an FAQ for this newsgroup?  If so, can anyone tell me where
to find it.  If not, can anyone give me a list of hobby stores in the San
Francisco and San Jose area.  I'm used to the Hobbytown USA's great prices
and service by my house (Irvine, CA), and I'm sick of paying Tower's crazy
p/h fees.  I'm looking for a shop that'll have car parts (spec: Kyosho
Rampage/CZ-R Corvette/T-Bird).

"The way to a fish's heart is through his sole." - Confishus.
Ravi Konchigeri.
mongoose@leland.stanford.edu

Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib)
Subject: Re: Glow Plugs
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 14:49:11 GMT

Hmmmmmm


Would anyone be interested in getting a few (half dozen, minimum)
McCoy MC-104-9 Racing Plugs? I can get them for about $2 apiece,
but I need to buy a hundred at a time. These are supposed to be 
really good high performance plugs for things like ducted fans 
and pattern. 

I currently use Fox Std. Longs - I get maybe 1 or 2 runs per plug 
but I get them for $1 apiece...





-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Iskandar Taib                          | The only thing worse than Peach ala
Internet: NTAIB@SILVER.UCS.INDIANA.EDU |    Frog is Frog ala Peach
Bitnet:   NTAIB@IUBACS                 !
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib)
Subject: Re: Re: Stall question
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 17:51:40 GMT

In article <3140028@hpsad.sad.hp.com> rexm@hpsad.sad.hp.com (Rex Musgrave) writes:
>Thanks for your comments. I have taken my plane back to the
>field with some of this in mind. I found that I could induce a
>leftward stall by adding just a little bit of left aileron. What
>could have been happening is that in pulling full elevator in 
>order to induce a stall, I was adding just a little right aileron
>with my thumb. With the slow airspeed, this very small aileron may
>not have been enough to roll the plane but enough to induce a stall
>on the right wing first.

Actually, even if the airplane is completely balanced, if its tip 
stalling it will drop one or the other of its tips. To get proper 
forward mushing you need to make the tips stall later than the root.

>Your comments about narrow wingtips do not apply here, the Super Sportster
>is a constant chord wing. I may have a twisted wing as well (either washin
>or washout maybe I could tell if I knew the difference.  :-) The plane does
>not exhibit high speed roll tendencies either. 

Some airplanes were real prone to dropping a wing because they had 
narrow tips.. the DH Comet was a famous example. 

To make an airplane tip-drop resistant put washout in _both_ wings. 
Washout is where the tip is at a lower angle of attack than the root,
which makes sense, since things stall out at a given angle of attack.
This ensures that the root stalls first. Another thing that I have 
heard that works is to adjust both ailerons so that they are re-
flexed - both are "up" when the stick is set to neutral. This will 
obviously have a better effect if the ailerons were in the tip rather
than Stik-type strip ailerons.

>Of course my first experience with this phenomenom came on final approach
>with the plane at about 5 feet altitude. This has resulted in a couple of
>repairs to the wing. It is amazing how much noise a piece of balsa can
>make when it cracks!

Yes.. this is when it bites hardest! Keep that airspeed up when landing...
its worse when the wind blows since the air near ground level isn't moving 
as fast as the air at a few feet...







-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Iskandar Taib                          | The only thing worse than Peach ala
Internet: NTAIB@SILVER.UCS.INDIANA.EDU |    Frog is Frog ala Peach
Bitnet:   NTAIB@IUBACS                 !
Organization: Freshman, CIT general, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 18:33:56 -0400 
From: Christopher Kristof <ck3i+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: Electric Motors/Gears/Props

>For example, I'm using a "Master Airscrew Electric Flight Pak" [ .05
>ferrite moror, (2.5:1) gearbox with folding 12 x 8 prop] system that
>gives about 22 oz thrust on 7 cells. Motor, gearbox and prop weigh 8
>oz. 1500 mAHr batteries (7 cells)  weigh in at about 12 oz. -  System
>costs ~$25, mail order w/o batteries.

So, does that leave you with only two ounces of "surplus" thrust?

>Try a geared cobalt motor, swinging a large prop for even better
>performance. 

Can anyone give me the specs on the largest "geared cobalt motor"
available?  	Basically what I'm looking for is THE motor with the
largest "surplus" thrust	 when it's weight and power source are taked
into account.  (For those not familiar with this thread, I plan to use
the motors in a VTOL type robotic aircraft.)  Price is not much of a
consideration as long as the per motor cost is roughly between one and
two hundred dollars.  I forgot to mention one other detail, the motors
must be able to run equally efficently in both directions.  Also, the
prop or blades must either be reversable or available as "pusher props."
 I need this because the motors must cancel each other's torques out.

>Look at Hobby Loby's catalogue for their electric heli's. They claim 5+
>min flights per battery pack.

I called and ordered a catalog today.  Are they pretty much a "just give
us the part number" place, or do you think that they could direct me to
the right motor?

			Thanks for all the feedback,
								Chris
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc