HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: vat10@diag.amdahl.com (Victor A. Tirva)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: remove inside rear-view mirror - HOW?
Date: 18 Nov 92 17:36:22 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Cupertino, CA

In article <42697@gremlin.nrtc.northrop.com>, jslee@nrtc.nrtc.northrop.com (John Lee <jslee>) writes:
|> 
|> >How do I remove the old mirror without breaking the windshield?  Is
|> 
|> 	I presume the mirror isn't screwed onto a metal mounting
|> "button" that is glued to the glass. I think most US cars are that
|> way now.
|> 
|> 	Anyway, how about a heat gun to soften the glue? The glue is
|> probably rated only at the highest expected outdoor temperature, nowhere
|> near a 250 degree heat gun.
|> 
|> JSLee

I don't know about windshield glass, but a heat gun can crack regular 
window glass.

Vic Tirva
From: avk@hafnium.cchem.berkeley.edu (Tony Konashenok)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: RedLine - where to get?
Date: 24 Nov 1992 03:42:13 GMT
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
Distribution: ca
NNTP-Posting-Host: hafnium.cchem.berkeley.edu

Where can I buy RedLine SL-2 and possibly other products
(by mail or in stores in SF Bay Area)? Does the manufacturer
sell direct, and if so, what is the phone number?

Tony
-- 
Tony Konashenok   avk@hafnium.cchem.berkeley.edu   (510)843-5632 (home)
University of California, Berkeley                 (510)642-5831 (office)

Strauss research group, Latimer Hall, UC Berkeley, Berkeley CA 94720, U.S.A.
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Honda Civic dies suddenly when starting
Date: 18 Nov 92 13:26:21 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL


 Newer cars with electric fuel pumps have the fuel pump power gated by oil
pressure to prevent the pump from running when the engine is off. This is
bypassed during starting. If the new fuel pump does the same thing, have a
look at the fuel pump power lead during and immediately after starting. 
If power goes away when you quit cranking, suspect a bad fuel pump relay
or oil pressure sender (or no oil pressure). Is the oil/check engine light
on before it dies?
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
Organization: Doctoral student, Architecture, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 10:57:10 -0500 
From: Kung-Jen Tu <kt1a+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Help on NO START!!!

Hopefully, I can gether your thought to identify the cause of NO START
of my car - an 84 Toyota Camry.

My car was running well except that once in a while I could not start
the car for unknown reason (happened 6-7 times in the last two and half
month).  The first time it broke down with no start, I had it towed to a
garauge.  They replaced the fuel pump.  The car ran well for a while and
then it broke down again (no start).  I had it checked at the same
garauge.  When the mechanics  was diagnosing, the car started suddenly. 
They could not find the problem, and thought that the fuel system,
battery, and plugs should be fine.  They also suspected that it could be
a problem with electrical system.  

I hestitated to go to the garauge due to the high cost of the diagnosis
and those two helpless experience with them.  But, I discovered a
predictable symptom for no start, and found a way to cure it when the
third NO START occurred.  Here is the symptom:

Supposely, the first switch of key (before igniting the engine) should
lighten all the signs, such as check engine, battery, door, fasten
seatbelt, etc.  If the 'check engine' is not lit, I know I won't be able
to start the car.  This is the only symptom that I found.

The way I dealt with it is to open the hood and close it heavily (trying
to shake the car body).  The 'check engine' sign normally came back
after a few try, and I can run the car again.  I have been using this
low-tech method to deal with my car in the past few months.

According to your knowledge and based on these sympton and fact
described, please take a guess and help me identify the cause.  Any
suspicion about where the problem might be, or any advice and suggestion
about what to do next, will be very appreciated.  



Kung-Jen Tu


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: keithw@griffin (Keith A Williams)
Subject: 85 Corolla rpms vary with clutch in
Keywords: 85 Corolla rpms vary with clutch in HELP!
Organization: University of Vermont -- Division of EMBA Computer Facility
Distribution: net
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 03:55:08 GMT

I have a 1985 Toyota Corolla LE five speed, four door.  It's got 154K and 
the valves are going.  Is this why the engine throbs when I put the clutch in
after driving?  The compression tests are 120, 90, 50, 100.  The throbbing
is as if someone was under the hood playing with the gas cable.  I'd love to 
rebuild the car, but I can't find an engine and someone to help with it.  
Anybody know what to do? Any replies would be greatly appreciated.

                                   Keith Williams
                                   University of Vermont
From: ujmli@memstvx1.memst.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: recommendations on motor oil
Date: 18 Nov 92 00:50:43 -0600
Organization: Memphis State University

Does anyone have any suggestions on the brand of motor oil to use on my car
('89 Accord)? I'm about to start on changing my own oil(i'm probably the only
one in this newsgroup that hasn't done it yet) and i'd like to know which is
the best brand to use.

Jason
From: pwu@ai.mit.edu (Peng Wu)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Window tinting
Date: 21 Nov 92 05:27:29
Organization: MIT Artificial Intelligence Laboratory
NNTP-Posting-Host: blackjack.ai.mit.edu
In-reply-to: shadow@pro-haven.cts.com's message of 20 Nov 1992 04:28:04 -0600

Tinted windows help vision under the sun but hamper vision when it is dark.
At least it is the case for me.  I really wish a tint system that can be
switched off when it is dark.
From: paraska@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Pete Paraska)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: WANTED: Non-corrosive EP lubricant additive
Date: 19 Nov 92 17:25:19 GMT
Followup-To: alt.hotrod
Distribution: usa
Organization: David Taylor Model Basin

My understanding is that EP additives are corrosive to bronze/brass and 
therefore, shouldn't be used in manual gearboxes.

I've heard that using regular motor oil in the gearbox provides better 
synchro action, resumably from higher friction there with the motor 
oil.  However, I'm concerned that motor oil will shear-down under the high 
local gear tooth loads in the gearbox.

Hence, I'm interested in the brass-corrosive properties of available EP 
additives.  I 've heard that the sulfur and/or phosphourus in some EP 
additives is the corrosive agent.

Any ideas?

(BTW, this is part of my quest for the notchy shifing in my 92 Eclipse GSX.  
I'm using Redline MTL, and it's better, but I'm looking for even better.  
I've talked with someone who has gone from the standard Mitsubishi tranny 
oil to Redline MTL and then motor oil and he has seen improvements with each 
change.  (That is, motor oil results in less notchiness than the MTL.))
|////////////////////////////////////////////////|
| Pete Paraska       (paraska@oasys.dt.navy.mil) |
| David Taylor Model Basin, CARDEROCKDIV         |
|\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\|
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen)
Subject: Re: How anti-lock brakes work (may start an interesting discussion)
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Distribution: na
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 92 21:39:45 GMT

In article <1992Nov20.145407.15733@linus.mitre.org> jdouglas@MITRE.org (Jason Douglas) writes:
>It certainly seems to make sense that independent control of each wheel 
>will result in shorter stops: why reduce the breaking of wheels which are 
>not skidding ?  The only logical reason is to reduce the cost of the 
>system.

i can think of another reason: reduction of yaw.  if one brake on an
axle is released while the other is still being applied, the forces 
will not be equal and you will get some rotation.
whether maximum braking is preferable to reduction of yaw is another question.
-teddy
From: tiwana@uts.amdahl.com (Gurumukh Singh Tiwana)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: How to remove the handle on a window??
Date: 23 Nov 92 19:23:24 GMT
Followup-To: tiwana@uts.amdahl.com
Distribution: usa
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA


A couple of days ago, some bozo hit my car in parking lot and left. He
hit the siding of my car and cause a big dent. Since the deductible on my 
insurance is $250.00 I am trying to repair the car myself.

To get at the dent from the inside I have to remove the inside cover of the
window. I have removed everything else except the handle that rolls the glass
of the window up or down. This does not have any screws and I have no clue 
on how to remove it except breaking it. 

Can some experienced soul let me know how to remove this handle?

Thank you 


-- 
Gurumukh Singh Tiwana
tiwana@uts.amdahl.com
tiwana@charon.amdahl.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: adt@Virginia.EDU ("Anthony D. Townsend")
Subject: Mazda Pickup Cold Start Problem
Organization: University of Virginia
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1992 22:30:27 GMT

Anyone else out there have a carbureted Mazda pickup (mine is
an 86) that has a cold start problem?  Specifically, when the
outside temperature gets below about 30 degrees F, and you
floor the gas before cranking (as the manual instructs), it can
be as much as 30 minutes before the idle becomes normal (around
850 rpm).

If you only tap the gas before cranking, the behavior is
normal, i.e. a period of fast idle until the temperature gauge
gets out of the cold zonethen normal idle.  I have cleaned all
the linkage components as well as the carb barrels, oiled the
linkage and solenoid moving parts to no avail.

Other clues are that the colder it is the more likely it is to
happen.  Between 30 and 40 degrees, it sometimes occurs and
sometimes doesn't.  When this problem happens, the idle speed
is usually around 2,500 rpm; much higher than a normal fast
idle.  Truck has no other problems and doesn't use a lot of gas.

I bought the truck new in April of 86 and it now has 90,000
miles on it.  Any help or insight greatly appreciated.

Tony Townsend, Microcomputer Support Coordinator, 
University of Virginia     adt@virginia.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ravalent@mothra.syr.EDU (Bob Valentine)
Subject: Re: source for traffic signs?
Organization: Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 92 14:43:23 EST

In article <BxvMGB.E7o@Interlan.com> powell@interlan.interlan.com (Glen D. Powell) writes:
>Does anyone know of a source for "official" looking traffic signs?
>
   Yep.  Most Department of Public Works have a sort of "dump" where
they put all the used street signs.  You can usually get a few for the
asking, or a 6-pack of Bud for the guy in the truck who is dumping
them.
   Even better:  BigOldPickUp meets sign at >30mph.  Usually sheers it
                  right off... =8^>.

>THANKS!
>
>-glen
>
>
OB>-- 
>Fundsalo Racing--73 CP RA IV 455HO Firebird GTO, 85 Quattro, 86 4000CS Quattro
>The Few..... The Proud..... The Concurrently Executed.....
>Ex-Alliant,   SCCA/NER, NESCC, NRA Life, GONH Life
>Don't buy japanese *ANYTHING*

________________________________________________________________________
\ The name:            -->   Bob Valentine  <--                        /
/ The address:      --> ravalent@mailbox.syr.edu <--                   \ 
/ The ride: --> 71 Olds Cutlass Convertible: 350/T400/Posi (soon!) <-- /
\______________________________________________________________________/
From: rhaar@albert.cs.gmr.com (Bob Haar)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Stumbling Chevy
Date: 17 Nov 92 18:27:13 GMT
Reply-To: rhaar@albert.cs.gmr.com
Organization: G.M. Research and Environmental Staff

In article kh07309@pro-haven.cts.com, shadow@pro-haven.cts.com (Blaine Hufnagle) writes:
|>
|>Start accelerating, from say, a light.  it accelerates fine for about three
|>to four seconds, then it starts up something like a miss or a stumble.  It
|>quits this if I let off the gas and runs normally.
|>

I would suspect something in the fuel system, like a bad fuel pump
or a clogged gas filter.

---
	Robert Haar               InterNet : rhaar@gmr.com 
	Computer Science Dept., G.M. Research and Environmental Staff
DISCLAIMER: Unless indicated otherwise, everything in this note is
personal opinion, not an official statement of General Motors Corp.
From: rhaar@albert.cs.gmr.com (Bob Haar)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: More on anti-lock brakes
Date: 19 Nov 92 19:35:38 GMT
Reply-To: rhaar@albert.cs.gmr.com
Organization: G.M. Research and Environmental Staff

In article 92Nov18154234@winnie-the-pooh.lcs.mit.edu, ilh@lcs.mit.edu (Lee Hetherington) writes:
|>This may be stupid but that never stopped me...

The only stupid question is one that you don't ask because you 
are afraid of looking stupid.

|>Maybe 3 and 4 circuit ABS systems are not necessarily better.  Let's
|>say your front right tire starts slipping and ABS releases the brake
|>on it.  If ONLY that brake is released, wouldn't your car want to pull
|>to left? 

A couple of points:

First, an ABS system doesn't just "release the brake". When a wheel 
is determined to be locking up, the brake pressure if dropped for a
short period of time. Then the pressure is restored. If the wheel
starts to slip again, the process repeats. This pulsing can happen
at the rate of 10 to 20 times per second. 

The end result of this is that when a wheel is in a greatly reduced
traction situation, you still get some braking effect. But if that
wheel had been allowed to lock up completely (i.e. 100% slip),
you get almost no braking effect. So in the one-wheel-on-ice
situation, that one wheel actually gets more braking with ABS
active than it would without ABS (assuming enough brake force
to lock up the wheel).

Second, the main goal of ABS is to maintain control. When a wheel
comes under active ABS control, there is some portion of the
available traction that is preserved for steering and cornering
forces. Thus, even if you have uneven braking forces, you are
beter able to compensate for it.


---
	Robert Haar               InterNet : rhaar@gmr.com 
	Computer Science Dept., G.M. Research and Environmental Staff
DISCLAIMER: Unless indicated otherwise, everything in this note is
personal opinion, not an official statement of General Motors Corp.
From: st1q9@rosie.uh.edu (Devine, Della M)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Window tinting
Date: 23 Nov 1992 00:34 CST
Organization: University of Houston
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: rosie.uh.edu
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    

  In Texas, it is legal to have every window tinted even the windshield..well
not the whole thing, just that strip at the top that cannot come down farther
that the top of the driver's vision.  (mine is 5") the front side windows
can be tinted up to 25%-27% (give or take a few%'s) but no more than
this.  Since you cannot readily buy 25% tint around here, most people
use 20% (me included) it looks good and works great during the day but is
kinda difficult to see out of at night when you're not in the city.
in the country you can't see left or right too far but under lighting
(street lights) it's just like day time. (rationalize, rationalize, rationalize)
anywaaay.  The rear windows can be painted black for all the state cares.
Mine are tinted 5% (full size blazer..all the way around). my vent windows
are also 20% and the strip above on the windshield is 5% to block the sun out.

   Hot Rod mag ran an article about a chevy van that had been shortened 
three feet in length and removed the side slide door.  It was a stubby truck.
Anyway, the guy that owned it was in some state (connecticut or around there)
that did not have any laws about tinted windows, his side windows were 
tinted like .5%, (successive 5% applications , like 4 or 5) and even
his windshield was tinted like 35% or 20% or something as such. I guess he
didn't drive it or somethin' cuz i know i wouldn'tve been able to see
outta it !

                  William C. Devine, II
reply to:
         devine@pvhep.pvamu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: srabo@csws19.ic.sunysb.edu (Sebastian Rabo)
Subject: Re: front brake job, need tip
Organization: State University of New York at Stony Brook
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 07:39:42 GMT


>if the piston is dull black(plastic) then BUY rebuilt calibers...if
>steel pistons then pull the caliber off one side at a time and then ...

Plastic caliper pistons, are you sure, these things get pretty damn hot.
^^^^^^^
Iit c carbon fiber materl maybe?, doeses anybody know what this stuff ?

--
Sebastian
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jdrout@scott.skidmore.edu (JTD is lost)
Subject: Re: ********************* HELP NEEDED!!! *****************************
Organization: Skidmore College, Saratoga Springs NY
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 08:34:44 GMT

> > do for me for about $100 on his spare time. 
> Really, is is worth installing a used clutch?  Not IMHO.
> 
> 

However, Martin did say that his clutch has only 5k km on it.  That's
pretty new, and is probably very unworn.  Especially if it was removed
from a car that was wreched, not one that the box or the clutch or
something went on.  And even if he only gets a year or two off it,
$100's not a very high price to pay.  I agree that Martin should take
his used clutch to a parts store and compare its condition, but he
seems to be getting offered a great deal (that's cheap labor for a
Toyota, at least, and I remember my old Civic labor being out of
control!)(no puns!).  
	My best advice would be for Martin to 

	A- check the clutch wear
	B- get in touch with the Honda user group for advice. Those
people know a lot about what is going on with Hondas.
	C- make sure the deal for 100 is solid.

		Jonathan

jdrout@scott.skidmore.edu
4A-GE w106700+mi @7krpm = Smile <:
From: darrellm@pogo.wv.tek.com (Darrell McGinnis)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: front brake job, need tips.
Date: 17 Nov 92 23:34:17 GMT
Organization: Tektronix Inc., Beaverton, Or.


I've got a 84 ford tempo with a brake problem.
The front driverside caliper (front discs) wont
release all the way.

The passenger side wheel will free spin when the
brake is released, while the driver side  still
has friction a plenty...

I tried to push the piston back but didn't have a big enough
C-clamp.

I'm looking at rebuilding the caliper.
the rebuild kit costs only $5 which I assume is all the
rubber stuff.

I have the tool (Torx, a 45 as I recall) to remove the caliper,
but what is a good thing to plug the brake line with ?

I also already have a brake-bleed-tube of the checkvalve variety.

I've never rebuilt a caliper but it appears strait-forward.

Any tips on freeing the piston  & getting it off the rotor ?
Any tips on anything else ?
From: cf947@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Chun-Hung Wan)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Help... Tinted Windows
Date: 18 Nov 92 09:02:57 GMT
Article-I.D.: usenet.1ed0s2INNb89
Reply-To: cf947@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Chun-Hung Wan)
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, danielle@sco.COM (THE RED NINJA) says:

>
>Hello all, is there anyone on the net that can
>give me some advice about tinted windows?
>
>Here's the situation, I had the windows in my 
>Integra tinted about 4 months ago.  I had the 
>rear window tinted at 20% and the rear side quarter
>windows and doors tinted at 35%.  According to
>the installer, it is legal to have the doors tinted
>up to a certain level (35%).  I thought it was fine
>until a couple of days ago.  I got pulled over by the
>CHP after work at about 12:30am (working really late).
>I was going about 30mph in a 35 zone down a three lane
>street.  The street has a bunch of trees along it that
>kinda covers the street lamps a bit.  The CHP noticed me
>as I was the only one going down the street and he was
>the only one coming from the other direction (also three
>lanes).  I had just entered a dark shadow from the trees
>when we passed each other and he glanced over at me.  I 
>guess he couldn't see me in the dark so he made a U-turn
>and pulled me over.  He gave me a ticket and said it was
>a traffic violation not a fix it ticket.  He said that
>I violated section 26708A of the Vehicle Code and that I 
>must remove the tint from both of my doors as I cannot have
>ANY kind of tint on the doors.
>I've just received my courtesy notice from the court and
>it shows an $82 bail for the ticket and from what I hear
>it is also a point on my insurance.
>
>My question is, what can I do about this problem?  I've
>thought that the tint is legal and now I'm told it's not.
>I've also talked with the city police and they've told me
>that it is legal to have tint on the window (up to a certain
>limit).  So who's correct the CHP or the city police?  If anyone
>can give me some advice on how to approach this or where I
>can find some "laws" regarding tinted windows, I would
>greatly appreciate it.
>
>Sorry for the long, dragged out details.
>
>Thanks,
>
>d.
>
>
I don't know which state you're in but in California it is legal to have
the rear and the rear side windows tinted as much as you like, (that means
even limo tint.)  Only the front and front sides are made illegal to tint. 
Then again, this is in California.
-- 
A motion picture major at the Brooks Institute of Photography, CA
Santa Barbara and a foreign student from Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.

"The mind is the forerunner of all states."
From: wb8foz@skybridge.SCL.CWRU.Edu (David Lesher)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Dot-5 fluid
Date: 21 Nov 1992 03:10:51 GMT
Organization: NRK Clinic for habitual NetNews abusers - Beltway Annex
Reply-To: wb8foz@skybridge.scl.cwru.edu (David Lesher)
NNTP-Posting-Host: skybridge.scl.cwru.edu

Others said
# Just make sure you THOROUGHLY flush out every bit of the hydraulic system and
# replace all the rubber (neoprene) pieces in the master cylinder and all 
# wheel calipers with brand new parts. 

I've heard this said, but my DOT-5 bottle didn't mention replacing any
hardware. I didn't and my 1978 150Kmiles Datsun B210 went to the Great
Parking Lot in the Sky with its original clutch & brake master
cylinders, 100Kmiles of which were w/DOT-5.

--
A host is a host from coast to coast..wb8foz@skybridge.scl.cwru.edu
& no one will talk to a host that's close..........................
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

 If you find one let me know. This is a common engine in full size Chevrolet
 and GMC trucks esp. 20 and 30 series. (3/4 and one ton).
 good luck 
 Jeff Brown