HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: hacker@cco.caltech.edu (Jonathan Bruce Hacker)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Gold Spark Plugs
Date: 14 Oct 1992 22:45:37 GMT
Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena
Distribution: na
NNTP-Posting-Host: punisher.caltech.edu

awds_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (ClarkKent) writes:

>We've hear about Bosch Platinum plugs-
>I was looking at a auto parts store's sales brochure and
>saw Champion Gold plugs.  I sure they're not solid gold, nor that
>much more expensive than platinum.  Gold's a great conductor, right?
>Any thoughts on these?

>Adam Edwards


Copper and silver are both better conductors than gold.  Gold has
superior corrosion resistance. (and looks nicer :-)

Conductivities (S/m) 20degC

Silver 6.173 e7

Copper 5.813 e7

Gold   4.098 e7


(higher number -> better conductor )



-- 
Jon Hacker
Caltech, Pasadena CA
hacker@tumbler-ridge.caltech.edu
From: pwu@vernazza.ai.mit.edu (Peng Wu)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Gold Spark Plugs
Date: 15 Oct 92 21:21:47 GMT
In-reply-to: larryf@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com's message of 14 Oct 92 21:43:17 GMT


     Anybody ever seen silver plugs?

Silver melts easily.  Conductivity isn't a problem for plugs.
From: goss@mtechca.maintech.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: car storage
Date: 14 Oct 92 11:56:19 PST
Organization: MAINTECH, A division of Volt Delta Resources, Inc. Orange, CA

I have a 79 camaro in great/good shape, however no one drives the car much, if
any at all. I have two other cars that get much better gas milage 89 sentra and
81 280ZX-GL. I was wondering what is the best way to store the car? I'm kinda
tried of paying for insurance on a car that's hardly driven. Or should I
just sell the car?
*<<<<<<<<<<<<< MY OPINIONS ARE MINE AND NOT THAT OF MY EMPLOYER >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>*
 Derrick D. Goss                                      e-mail: goss@mtechca.uucp 
 Tech. Assistance Center_______MAINTECH:a division of Volt Delta Resources, Inc 
 voice: 1.714.921.7608                                  2401 North Glassell St.
 fax: 1.714.921.7510                                Orange, CA,  USA 92665-2705
**********************  Internet Z-CAR CLUB MEMBER # 12  ***********************
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>" 280ZX owners do it with a stick" <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Time of the day and Filling up
From: derek@nezsdc.icl.co.nz (Derek Tearne)
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 92 22:59:38 GMT
Organization: Fujitsu New Zealand

In article <1aprckINNeat@seven-up.East.Sun.COM> jfox@hooksett.East.Sun.COM writes:
>In article uupcb@chaos.lrk.ar.us, dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) writes:
>> 
>> -> The question is, Does it matter what time of the day you fill up your
>> -> gas tank?
>> 
>>  Enough that NASCAR outlawed chilling fuel at pit stops, but you're
>> pumping from an underground tank that's at a pretty constant temperature
>> all the time.
>
>How far underground are tanks generally? Far enough to negate temp chgs?

Wine cellars and the like maintain a pretty constant temperature throughout
the day and even the year.  There will be some difference but not a whole lot.

The fuel in your fuel tank is much more susceptible to temperature changes.
In the morning it will be cooler and and the fuel will take up less volume,  
when it get's hotter the fule will expand and take up more space.  This is 
probably more significant than the daily variation in the station tank.

Filling in the morning won't save you much money but will allow you to get 
slightly more fuel in your tank.  Useful if going a long distance but 
otherwise not.  Don't top your tank up to the brim and then leave the 
car standing in the hot summer sun.  The fuel will expand and find it's own 
way out of the tank.  This does NOT save you money and could be rather 
exciting...


-- 
Derek Tearne. -- derek@nezsdc.icl.co.nz --  Fujitsu/ICL New Zealand -- 
Some of the more aware dinosaurs were worried about the environmental
consequences of an accident with the new Iridium enriched fusion reactor.  
"If it goes off only the cockroaches and mammals will survive..." they said.
From: rtoth@athos.rutgers.edu (Robert Toth)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: A quick qestion
Date: 16 Oct 92 15:02:38 GMT
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.


Does anyone out there know if 3M makes a rust inhibitor?  I know that
I have seen something in Car Craft about it but I cannot find the
issue.

Any help is appreciated.



Thanks much


...rob
-- 

 -----------------------------------------------------------------------
|                                    |Rutgers University                |
|  rtoth@athos.rutgers.edu           |Laboratory for Computer           |
|                                    |Science Research                  |
|	                             |Telecommunications Technician     |
|                                    |CoRE Building                     |
|                                    |Busch Campus                      |
|     MOPAR PERFORMANCE              |908 932 2260                      |
|      90 DAYTONA ES V6              |                                  |
|				     |					|
|____________________________________|__________________________________|

 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sreit@ctp.com (Stefan Reitshamer)
Subject: Re: Inexpensive engine pre-oilers
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 20:37:52 GMT
Organization: Cambridge Technology Partners

>From: stubbs@hawk.cs.ukans.edu (Jerry Stubbs)
>Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 21:38:05 GMT
>
>I think a good pre-start heating system would be good. Instead of cranking
>the engine, plug your car in at night. At a pre-determined time in the 
>morning the engine block heater, the window de-icers, the seat-warmers
>and the battery heater would all come on. You could get in, start your
>car without worrying about oil gelling, and reduce your idling warm-up,
>saving you gas, plugs, etc.  And it would add to your comfort and 
>convenience, not detract.
>
I disagree. Your convenience and comfort would definitely be detracted on
that one morning when your car catches fire :-)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang)
Subject: Re: oxygen sensor
Organization: Brandeis University
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 17:46:59 GMT

In article <28940@life.ai.mit.edu> pwu@oreo.ai.mit.edu (Peng Wu) writes:
>My $0.02:
>
>Assume the oxygen senser can work for 60k under any situation.  So, if I
>drive the car at 20mph for 60k, it should be working fine up to then.  It
>seems reasonable to assume that the senser life should be measured in time in
>use.  Therefore, it is reasonable to assume that the senser will be fine up to
>150k if I drive the car at 50mph.  If we can assume that low speed driving is
>more demanding on the senser...
>
>Anyway, since oxygen senser failure seldom leaves one on road, I would prefer
>to wait for a sign of unadequate performence before I replace it.
>
>Any buyers?

It depends on where the sensor is mounted.  In the Rabbits of ~'84 the
sensors are mounted on the exhaust manifold where it runs nice and hot
as it is supposed to.  However these conditions also make it a
certainty that the sensor will be FIRMLY frozen to the manifold by 65K
miles.  To the point that a dealer will not be able to remove it,
recommending a new manifold instead of removal.  I believe that VW's
60K replacement interval was designed to allow removal.

In the '87 Alfa, the sensor is farther downstream in a cooler area,
the replacement interval is 100k and to further guarantee its removal,
100K also happens to be the replacement interval for the catalytic
converter to which the sensor is mounted.

So, maybe instead of waiting for poor performance (manifested usually
as an unstable idle), you can remove and re-lubricate (anti-seize) the
sensor every 30K and replace when it fails.

-andy
From: Dale.James@cs.cmu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: TRX tires.
Date: 9 Oct 92 21:21:25 GMT
Organization: Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA

Due to some stupidity on my part, I find myself in possession of two nearly-
new 165-70R365 Michelin TRX snow tires.  I have no idea what cars use these
tires as original equipment, or an appropriate netnews forum on which to try
selling them.

Any help most certainly appreciated.

Thanks,
--Dale
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: srhineha@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Shawn L Rhinehart)
Subject: Re: TH700R4 questions
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 18:22:59 GMT

In article <3055@contex.contex.com> frank@marvin.contex.com (Frank Perdicaro) w
rites:
>I have been thinking about installing a TH700R4 in my 82 Cutlass
>Supreme.  I am wondering if anybody can add some facts to my data
>base.
>
>I know I need to move the tranny support, and get a new drive shaft.
>I know that I need to get the 6.2L diesel control module for the TH700
>lockup, and I know that I need to wire the braking unlock as shown in
>Hot Rod a while back.  I also know I need to buy the BOP to Chevy
>tranny kit from TCI.  Yeah, and my shifter will not read correctly.
>
>
>Please do not tell me about the TH200R4 -- it will not stand up to the
>torque I am making.
>--
>This is my first reply to an article so be gentle. I have an 83 Turbo Regal 
that has been "slightly" modified. As a result, I tend to eat 2004R's at a rate
of about 2 or 3 per year. I am getting really tired of replacing them with $100
junkyard specials. What I want to know is, is the 700R4 really that much 
better, or would I be better off to just spend the money and get a 2004R 
rebuilt? Any and all information is appreciated. Thank's !
From: welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Threshold braking (was Re: "tank" superchargers)
Date: 10 Oct 92 00:46:51 GMT
Organization: New York State Institute for Sebastian Cabot Studies

In article <548.88.uupcb@chaos.lrk.ar.us> dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) writes:
> Perhaps you're driving on a level surface instead of the cambered road
>which was mentioned in the original message?  Perhaps you simply aren't
>pushing the envelope hard enough?  Perhaps you're not driving a normal
>production automobile, which usually isn't within 300 pounds on
>left/right weight bias and usually not within 1/2 inch of square?

thinking about this message yesterday and this morning, some light
suddenly dawned ... i've spent much time over the past several years
practicing selecting braking zones that are straight and flat (laterally,
not longitudinally) and generally avoiding braking in cambered situations;
i would agree that braking with uneven loads would cause lockup of one
wheel or another first.  i also realized that the bulk of my track driving
is done with a passenger in the right seat, and that my wheel alignments
are generally done without weights in the driver seat that approximate
my weight.

in other words, i now understand at least some of what you're getting at.

richard
-- 
richard welty                            518-393-7228
welty@cabot.balltown.cma.com
  ``if you can read this, mario, you're too close''
    -- bumper sticker seen on a CART safety truck
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Radials on '60s era cars?
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 12 Oct 92 07:14:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> Does anyone know what the deal is with older cars and getting the
-> right shocks for the tires?  Does "radial tuned" shocks really work
-> when the intended car is 25 years old?

 Normal OEM and replacement shocks are almost as strong as the doohickey
that keeps the screen door from slamming you in the ass.  "Radial tuned"
shocks are even weaker than that.

 Radials give a "harsher" (actually, noisier) ride than old bias ply
tires.  Radial tuned suspensions like Pontiac used to promote were
basically fitted with softer bushings and shocks to try to absorb some
of the noise before it got to the chassis.

 In my opinion, the noise difference between different types of road
surfaces is far greater than the difference between bias ply and radial
ply tires.  Get a *good* shock if you can afford it, like the KYB
Gas-A-Just.  Otherwise, pick a name brand heavy duty shock.
                                                                                                      
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: elmquist@pez.ssesco.com (Chris Elmquist)
Subject: Re: oxygen sensor
Organization: SSESCO
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 21:11:42 GMT

So, there are only a couple different O2 sensor designs ?  Do they all
exhibit the same O2 vs. Vout curve ?  I suspect that mine (in my '87
Integra) may be failing and causing the rotten idle problem I've had
for a couple years(!).  

I'm wondering if I can disconnect the sensor and fake a nominal Vout
using a battery and a couple resistors (or a pot)...  If they have a 0v
to 1v range, can I feed .5v say, into the computer in place of the O2 sensor
and see if the idle behaves differently (better maybe) ?  Or is the output
of the O2 sensor much more dynamic and related to engine RPM such that a
constant Vout (or Vin to the computer) would really dork up the idle...?

It would be nice to diagnosis the O2 sensor as bad before trying to pull 
it out...

Chris
--
 
Chris Elmquist, N0JCF
elmquist@SSESCO.com
73267.2711@Compuserve.com
(612)342-0003@work (8am-5pm CST6CDT)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dhepner@cup.hp.com (Dan Hepner)
Subject: Re: F350 vs F250 front springs.  Interchangable?
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 17:59:33 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1scd1 PL4

Subject: F350 vs F250 front springs.  Interchangable?

>Synopsis:  Are F350 and F250 springs the same 'size' and interchangeble?

Synopsis: if this were a Dodge, they would be, but removing leaves may
do the job.

Dodge offers three "stiffnesses" of springs, corresponding to
three different GVW ratings, available on the 250..350 4X4
series.  The highest rating, a killer ~#11k, is not available on 
the 250, the lowest _is_ available on the 350, but all could be 
done fine using junkyard parts.

The GVWR was clearly marked on the vehicle at time of sale, on the 
tag inside the door.  10k+ is maximum, ~8.5k is medium, and >= 8k 
is low.  The junkyard truck can be checked in this manner.

Reducing the spring strength is typically simply removing one or more
of the leaves. Find one with the lower rating, and figure out which
leaves you have that they don't have.  Note that the clip holding
the leaves together has room for a full set, but can be used with less.

>Does anyone know if F350 4x4 front leaf springs and F250 4x4 front leaf
>springs are the same physical size? I.e. can I get a pair of 'light'
>F250 springs from my local 'junk yard' and bolt 'em in?  I know I'll
>lose some of my load capacity, but I had 1.5 tons of sod in the
>sucker last week and the rear springs were only touching the 'overload'
>spring on one end ... the front didn't seem to have moved at all..

Pickups are notorious for being difficult to load in a balanced way.  For
most typical pickup usage, setting up the front springs for unloaded usage
will result in acceptable loaded behavior.  The rears are a totally
different story.  An opinion, light main springs and heavy overload
springs (set to hit >#1500 < #2000) result in the best combination for 
the typical usually-unloaded, sometimes-loaded, sometimes-overloaded 
pickup usage.  One sure as hell doesn't need exceptionally heavy front 
springs for towing, but be careful not to use ones too light for
the normal engine weight.

>I just don't know quite were to go look... The local dealer wasn't
>exactly helpfull...
>E. Michael Smith  ems@apple.COM

Neither are the 4X4 shops, except as a place to buy new U-bolts of
whatever length you need and those pins which go through springs.

Dan Hepner
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: colombo@bronco.fnal.gov
Subject: Slick 50 gear oil trashes syncros, NOT
Organization: Fermilab Computing Division
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 20:54:53 GMT


UPDATE:  Slick 50 gear oil in tranny trashes syncros, NOT.

Well it's been nearly 1000 miles since I put the Slick 50 gear oil product
into my tranny case.  First I must mention that before I added Slick 50 my
2nd gear (1st isn't syncro) was kinda noisy to begin with, well actually it
was grinding a bit, ok like all the time.  After about 100 miles, I noticed
less grinding, after 200 miles even less and by 500 miles it was nearly
gone.  Now it only grinds when I put it into 2nd quickly (it shouldn't
grind at all).  There are no problems with the 3rd and 4th gear syncros.

Not that anybody really cares what I think, but Slick 50 gear oil has
helped to quiet my noisy syncro.  All this armchair talk about causing
the syncros to slip and fail has not been borne out by my experience
with the product.   Actually, I'm glad I put it in before I heard all
this talk, the last thing I needed was all my syncros going out. ;-)

-- 
 ___________________________________________________________________________
 *****  *   *  From the e-net desk of: Rick Colombo CD/DCD/DSG    *    *
 *      **  *  Fermi Nat'l Acc'l Lab   708-840-8225 Fermilab     * *   *
 ***    * * *  P.O. Box 500   MS 369   Feynman Computer Center  *****  *
 *      *  **  Batavia, Ill. USA 60510 Colombo@fnal.fnal.gov    *   *  *****
 *    Of course I speak for Fermilab, Congress and the President... NOT !!!
From: frank@marvin.contex.com (Frank Perdicaro)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Windshield wiper/washer problem on 1980 Oldsmobile Delta 88
Date: 13 Oct 92 14:31:50 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Xyvision Design Systems

In article <1992Oct12.002517.29054@athena.mit.edu> formula@athena.mit.edu (Ronald R. Duff Jr.) writes:
>
>	I am driving a 1980 Olds Delta 88 and I started having problems
>with the winshield wipers last night.  All of a sudden they froze in the up

Is this the GM Blinker-Blinker-Blinker-Cruise-Cruise-Cruise-Cruise-Cruise-
Wiper-Wiper-Wiper-Wiper-High Beam-Low Beam switch on the stalk with 
tilt wheel, and the 2 speed with delay wiper motor?  This was common
on the lux GMs of the time.  

If this is the unit, its probably the contacts in the wiper motor
needing cleaning.  This is difficult to do only because the lowermost
10mm bolt is VERY difficult to remove, especially if the car has ever
been outside.
-- 
	 Frank E Perdicaro, Systems Admin, etc.		Xyvision Color Systems
      Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.		101 Edgewater Drive
   inhouse: frank@marvin, x5572				Wakefield MA
outhouse: frank@contex.com, 617-245-4100x5572		018801285
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jeep@tc.fluke.COM (Dale A. Chaudiere)
Subject: Hydraulic clutch for Buick 225/231 cu in V6
Keywords: V6
Organization: John Fluke Mfg. Co., Inc., Everett, WA
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 14:44:16 GMT

I am converting my 67 CJ5 to a hydraulic clutch.  It has the Jeep (Buick)
225 cu in V6.  Does anyone know of a slave cylinder that will bolt to the
GM aluminum bellhousing?  Did the stick shift 231 Buick Skyhawk have a
hydraulic clutch?  Are there any other GM cars with hydraulic clutch that
I could use a slave cylinder from?  Actually the mounting bracket is my
concern.

Thanks,
-- 
jeep@tc.fluke.COM           Dale Chaudiere                (206) 356-5894
         .                  John Fluke Mfg. Co., Inc.
        /|_\_.              P.O. Box 9090, M/S 239E
       'o~~~o`              Everett, WA 98206 USA
From: gheim@eng.auburn.edu (Greg Heim)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Grinding in FWD drivetrain...
Date: 14 Oct 92 03:02:04 GMT
Organization: Alabama Department of Tourism (NOT!)


I am getting a noise in the drivetrain of my front wheel drive '78
Fiesta.  At slow speeds it sounds like popping metal, kind of like
mis-meshed gears.  It increases with speed.  At higher speeds it turns
into a grinding noise.  When cruising at a steady speed I don't hear
it.  When I accelerate and hit bumps it is worse.  Also when I turn to
the left it _really_ gets bad where when I turn to the right it sounds
just a little worse.  I also hear a faint rumble when I am coasting
around turns didn't used to be there.  The noise has slowly gotten
worse.  I opened up the CV joints on the side where I thought it was
coming from.  They seemed fine (to me), although I don't know what
amount of wear it would take to cause problems.

Are these the telltale signs of a bad CV joint?  If not, what else
could it be?  I have no experience with CV joints as this is my first
FWD car.

Thanks much,

Greg



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Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
From: smsriv@melkor.lerc.nasa.gov (Rakesh Srivastava)
Subject: Car Alarms
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center [Cleveland, Ohio]
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 16:34:16 GMT

Hello Folks,

I need some expert advice, so here it goes:

My car was stolen on the night between 10/5 and 10/6. I found it
missing in the morning of 10/6 from the parking lot of our apt. complex.
The Cleveland's finest were able to find the car around 10:30 on 10/6 itself.
There was not too much damage to the car itself, except the pasanger side
door lock was punched out, the steering column was broken the stereo was
missing and the hub caps were missing. My car is a 91 Toyota Camry. It is
fully insured and is currently at the Toyota dealers lot. 

My questions:

Are there things I should be aware of during the repair of the car that the
insurance company might try to take advantage of?

Since the car is still under manufacturers warranty, should I insist on
certain things that might be important for the warranty?

I have also decided to go for a car alarm. I would appreciate any suggestions
as to what alarms to go with, estimate on price, etc. Any suggestions at all
in this regard is really what I am looking for as I have no clue as to how
to go about this.

Please email your responses. 

Thanks

Rakesh
smsriv@melkor.lerc.nasa.gov
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen)
Subject: Re: Unidirectional Wheels
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 92 04:44:38 GMT


brake cooling is the only thing i can think of.  the wheels may not
duct air across the rotors as effectively if the pattern is reversed.
maybe the wheels are indeed stronger when the torque is applied in
one direction, but i'm sure that even the weak direction is so strong
that you aren't going to notice the difference.  did you ask the manufacturer?

-teddy
From: rst@spl1.spl.loral.com (Ray Tom)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Shocks and Tires???
Date: 9 Oct 92 23:08:46 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Loral Software Productivity Laboratory

Hello Fellow Motorist,

My 90 Taurus has about 44000 miles on it and I was planning to change the
tires soon.  My question is should I also change shocks and get alignment
too???   How can you tell if you need new shocks or if the wheels out of
alignment???

Also, Montgomery Wards as a 55000 guarantee on a $48 tire call Allegance or
Regency.  Has anyone tried their tires???

Thanks Very Much in advance for any information you can offer!!!

Ray
rst@spl1.spl.loral.com

P.S.  Could you please E-mail a copy of your response, just in case I miss
it on rec.autos.tech.
From: george@mech.seas.upenn.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Live axle vs. IRS
Date: 16 Oct 92 05:42:03 GMT
Organization: University of Pennsylvania, Mechanical Engineering

:
:Wait until the F-cars do what the Z and Rx-7 did?

there was never a live axle in a Z
--
  /   george jefferson
\/ *  george@mech.seas.upenn.edu