HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: Chevy Headliner Replacement
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 92 06:34:25 GMT

I have a friend who buys headliner material in bulk, and has the technique down
for SAABs, anyway.  It basically goes like this:  (no guarantees that your car
will resemble this in ANY way)....

1> remove all the things bolted through the headliner (lights, rear-view
mirror, etc.)
2> remove the headliner shell FROM THE CAR, through whichever door/orifice it
originally went in through.
3> lay it down on the floor/ground, and remove the material from the shell.
As to the specifics of getting it smooth, that's up to you, on the ones I have
done it wasn't too much of a problem; the foam just balls up when you rub your
hand over it.
4> Use a spray adhesive supplied by the people who make the headliner material,
specifically for this purpose.  It is probably the OEM stuff, which will
last for another 10 years.
5> put it back in.

The important bit is taking the headliner shell out of the car, and putting the
new one in when the shell is upside-down.  Gravity is your friend; use it wisely.

If your car doesn't have a headliner shell, or one that can be removed, I guess
this method is NFG for you.

E-mail me at the address below if you want the name of the guy who sells this
stuff....not posting here because that's tacky.


--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - you get what you pay for; you pay for what you get.
hinz@picard.med.ge.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Oil Drain Plug Is Stuck
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 30 Jul 92 11:05:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * Jacksonville AR USA * 501-985-0059


-> : fasteners are quite rare.  6-point sockets don't tend to strip
-> fasteners : as bad as 12s, particularly oddball "offsize" fasteners.

> How would these sockets work on 30-year old bolts whose heads have
> been reduced in size by rust/flaking action?  The 1/2" doesn't fit,

 They're better than 12-points, but the best are the Snap-On Flank Drive
sockets I mentioned earlier.  Other tool companies may make something
similar - and chances are, if they do, they'll be cheaper than Snap-On.

 Snap-On makes fine tools, but they're just too darned expensive.
From: lihan@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Bruce G. Bostwick)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Engine removal in an 1977 Olds Cutlass
Date: 21 Jul 92 12:17:55 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin, Austin TX

In article <Brorwo.9nJ@acsu.buffalo.edu> bphdarcy@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (SJ Roc D'Arcy, MBP) writes:
>I am pulling the engine out of my 1977 Olds Cutlass for the first time.
>In disconnecting the engine from the transmission, can easily remove all 
>the bolts except the second one from the top (or bottom) on the drivers
>side.  I can not imagine how to get at this bolt as the firewall is almost
>right up against it.  I have tried five different kinds of wrenches and 
>a slew of ratchets.  Has anyone else ever run into this problem and
>if so what were their solutions.  

The engine and transmission are supposed to be separable inside the
car, but this is not a guarantee that it will be possible with home
tools.  Usually if I have to pull an engine, I go ahead and pull it
with the transmission and separate them when they're out of the car.
It's easier (with the proper hoist of course!) and you run less risk
of bending/gouging the transmission input shaft when it comes out of
the flywheel and clutch.

-- 
<BGB>
lihan@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu        /     "I can't complain,
(really Bruce Bostwick)        /   but sometimes I still do"
from the great state of TEXAS /         --Joe Walsh--
From: prmx@vax5.cit.cornell.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: head gasket on a taurus
Date: 23 Jul 92 11:32:42 EDT
Distribution: rec
Organization: Cornell University

Hello there folks!
I am about to replace the head gasket on my '86 Ford Taurus 2.5L engine.
My question is: Torque the gasket once, or should I slack the bolts at some
interval, then re-torque them.  If the later, at what interval.

Many Thanks!

Peter Morenus
From: rjwade@rainbow.ecn.purdue.edu (Robert J. Wade)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: brakes and calipers
Date: 23 Jul 92 21:02:06 GMT
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network


 have 89 grand am with sport suspension.  in 1991 pontiac put bigger/better
rotors and calipers on the grand ams.  any reason i can't go to junk yard
and find a 91 and pull rotors and calipers off and slip them on my 89??
i figure it is just:
pull wheel
take out 2 bolts holding caliper
slide off rotor
undo brake line and take caliper
and then the reverse onto my car.
anything i am not thinking of?????
-rjwade@rainbow.ecn.purdue.edu
From: bdl@cruiser.uucp (Bob Lombard)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 4 wheel drive and the Bronco II
Date: 21 Jul 92 05:01:48 GMT
Article-I.D.: cruiser.P6w9NB1w164w
Distribution: world
Organization: what? me organized? no way!

simmon@eeel.nist.gov (Eric Simmon) writes:

> I have a friend who is looking at used Ford Bronco IIs.

I'm sorry.  Has he sought professional help ? :)

> He is wondering what the differences in reliability between the
> manually engaged 4 wheel drive and the automatic (from the
> dashboard).

There are two things to consider here, Transfer case & Hubs.  For the
amount of time most people *really* use 4wd, manully engaged hubs & and
a manual xfer case are more reliable & require less maintenance.
The drawback is that you have to get out and lock the hubs when you need
4wd, or lock them ahead of time (beginning of the trail, when the snow
starts, etc)

> Is there any harm (to front drive components, tires, etc.) caused
> by driving with the front hub locked and the 4wd lever in the 2wh
> position.

Mostly wasted fuel from spinning the unused drive parts.

> If the manual hubs lock in the 4wd, why is there a 2wh, 4wh
> and 4wl position on the lever?

Because 4x4s have 2 typically have two gear ranges. 4w high is
the same as 2w high, except that all four wheels are driven.  4w low
provides a major gear reduction for more pulling power.  Top speed
in 4wl is usually 20-25 mph.

> (what does locking the hubs actually do?)

Locking the hubs makes the connection from the wheels to the axle
ends.  The idea is that if the hubs are unlocked, the wheels rotate
freely and will you won't waste power spinning unused parts.  You must
lock the hubs to use 4wd, natch.

 
> Does anyone whave any comments to make on the Ford Bronco II (1989
> and later)?

Can't say about the 89 & later.  The 4cyl engine is a NO-NO.  The
V6, if it's the same one as in the aerostar van, is a good one.
I just rebuilt the engine in my Bro in laws 85 Bronco II.  It was
a pain, and it's evident to me that regular maintenance on the bronco
II is a pain in the A**.  (Changing sparkplugs thru a wheel well, for
example)  I did not care for the construction of the truck in general,
a lot of things that should'nt have broken under normal use, had.

 
> Thanx,

Yer welcome.
 

*****************************************************************
* Bob Lombard ||  bdl@cruiser.uucp  || 418 Village Center Drive *
*             ||                    || Encinitas, Ca. 92024     *
*  |~~|_                                                        *
*  |    :           "If it ain't green and it ain't old,        *
*  '0-0-''..../\..   .. it ain't my truck                       *
*****************************************************************
From: pshyvers@pyrnova.mis.pyramid.com (Peter Shyvers)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: mounting car tires
Date: 25 Jul 92 05:02:00 GMT
Reply-To: pshyvers@pyrnova.pyramid.com (Peter Shyvers)
Organization: Pyramid Technology Corp., Mountain View, CA
Originator: daemon@sword.eng.pyramid.com

In article <1992Jul23.112641.29106@dg-rtp.dg.com> taylor@rtp.dg.com writes:
>If I have a bead breaker, how hard is it to change a car tire?
>
If it is a tubeless with wire bead, quite hard. Every so often our Coats
machine would develop an air leak, leaving the air-powered bead-breaking shoe
powerless, and we would beat away on emergency fixes to no avail...

It's not so bad on tube-type tires without the wire bead.
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:10313 rec.autos.vw:4406
From: gss@btcase.bt.co.uk (Graham Sewell)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Cleaning injectors
Date: 29 Jul 92 07:00:19 GMT
Organization: British Telecom, Lion House, London.

orban@ciit85.ciit.nrc.ca writes:

>I am in the process of rebuilding the fuel injection on my
>'79 Scirocco, which has not been running in the last 5 years.
>I have a bunch of injectors which are gummed up. I have also built
>an injector cleaner/tester. My question is that what is the best 
>solvent to dissolve the gum. I am not thinking of adding it to the
>fuel, but forcing it through directly the injectors with the tester.

Peter

An alternative option available in the UK is to send the injectors away
to be cleaned in ultrasonic tanks.  I have heard good reports on this
technique.  Maybe it is available in Canada too.


-- 
Graham Sewell                          Tel   +44 71 728 4851
Unix TP and Database Unit              Fax   +44 71 728 4883
PP506, Lion House, 72-75 Red Lion St, LONDON. WC1R 4RT
gss@btcase.bt.co.uk
From: stanford@verbis.waisman.wisc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Problems with a Mazda MX6
Date: 24 Jul 92 17:53:57 GMT
Organization: Waisman Center, University of Wisconsin-Madison


        A friend's 1988 Mazda MX6-GT (58,000 miles) recnetly developed a
highway speed shimmy.  When he took it to the dealer he was told that it
needed a new CV joint (sorry, don't know which side) and a new steering
rack.  Total cost, with labor, will be $1530.45 ($388.30 for CV joint and
$1142.15 for steering rack).  I'm hoping that someone might be able to
answer a few questions that come to mind.
        First, I can understand how a CV joint might fail at around 60K
miles due to a cracked boot, etc. but it is not uncommon for a steering
rack to fail?  Is it possible that the bad CV joint caused the failure
of the steering rack (at the dealer, my friend was asked if the car
had been routinely driven over bad roads and I know this isn't the case -
most of the miles are highway miles)?  Has anyone out there had to replace
a steering rack at 60K (especially in a Mazda MX6), and was the replacement
cause known?  Does anyone know if this is a common problem with this car?
        I would appreciate answers to any of the above questions, or any
knowledge or advice that can be shared relevant to this problem.  If it
is felt that this topic is not of wide enough interest to discuss on the
net, please E-mail me at the address below.  Thanks in advance for any
information that anyone can share.

                                Larry Stanford
                                STANFORD@WAISMAN.WISC.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: john@iastate.edu (John Hascall)
Subject: Re: AutoNotes #3
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames, IA
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 12:53:19 GMT

dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)  writes:
}AutoNotes #3, 07/26/92                   copr. 1992, Dave Williams
}=====================================================================
} V10 Again:  Ford is now talking about expanding their modular V8
}(that's the 4.6 SOHC) to a 7-liter V10 for use in E and F series
}trucks and vans.  My, that's quite a displacement jump for just two
}cylinders.

   But it works out just right for the displacement of a V12.  Maybe
they'll have a new line of Jaguar pickups?  ;-)

John
-- 
John Hascall                                       ``Live with it pink-boy!''
Project Vincent                                                              
Iowa State University Computation Center                     john@iastate.edu
Ames, IA  50011                                      515/294-9551 [fax -1717]
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: brakes and calipers
Date: 24 Jul 92 13:25:14 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL


 Typically the move to bigger rotors requires a different spindle because the
calipers must be further out radially to clear the rotor. If you go to a
dealer they might (if they're very bored) look up the part numbers for the
regular and sport models and see if the spindle is the same. The mounting
point for the calipers is part of the spindle casting and not readily
modifiable. Swapping spindles will require removing the springs/struts,
ball joints, steering linkage, etc. also.
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: eap@leland.Stanford.EDU (Eric Perozziello)
Subject: Re: How to use blue silicone RTV
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 92 18:12:27 GMT

>
>One thing that comes to mind since I just did the intake manifold on
>my '87 Trans Am.  In the case of a water pump it may or may not matter,
>but on new cars (e.g sensor equipped), I have been told on more than
>one occasion that you should get "sensor safe" silcone.  I suppose that
>the chemical composition may destroy the sensors otherwise.
>

I'm not sure what "sensor safe" means, but I assume they mean if the stuff
becomes dislodged it doesn't somehow screw up the sensors (o2 sensor maybe)
?????

We've never had any problems with this.  One point I dion't address, is :
How much gook do you put on there?  The answer is , just a thin film.
Also, I didn't mention that the "weatherstrip adhesive" must be put
on in a "special" way. You should apply it to the gasket, press the gasket
against it's sealing surface, and then remove it to let the adhesive
become sticky- then reassemble as stated.
From: pshyvers@pyrnova.mis.pyramid.com (Peter Shyvers)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Ignition problems continued
Date: 21 Jul 92 03:18:18 GMT
Reply-To: pshyvers@pyrnova.pyramid.com (Peter Shyvers)
Organization: Pyramid Technology Corp., Mountain View, CA
Originator: daemon@sword.eng.pyramid.com

In article <1992Jul16.194239.1921@mcs.anl.gov> curtis@achilles.ctd.anl.gov (Jeffrey S. Curtis) writes:
>In article <1992Jul16.132258.26775@usenet.ins.cwru.edu>, jxs18@po.CWRU.Edu (Jerry Sy) writes:
>|>                                               But while I was checking the
>|> Chiltons manual, an exploded view of the distributor revealed that there
>|> should be a part (made of asbestos) called condesation cap, immediately
>|> below the rotor.  it is just a cover with a hole in the middle for the rotor
>|> to go in.  for some reason, the last person who worked on the distributor
>|> must have forgotten to put that thing back in.  so I went to the dealer, 
>|> bought the $2 part, placed it in, and my problem was gone! and considering
>
>Hmm - I've never heard of such a thing, to be honest.  I just went out on
...
>find.  What's the condensation cap supposed to do?

In many '70's Toyotas there was a similar plastic shield. If there's moisture
in the cap, the coil current that's supposed to go to ground via the pointed-to
distributor cap tower (and out thru the wire to the plug) would go via the 
nearest unshielded distributor component - the points, distributor housing,
etc.

We replaced them religiously - cars rarely have unnecessary pieces (other than
appearance-only items, anyway.)  And another feature in those Toyotas was a
coil cover that shielded the distributor and ignition-switch leads from
engine/road spray; when *I* got in a rush and left the shield off my '76
Corolla after a quick points adjustment, *I* paid with a roadside stall 
in a rainshower...
From: nall@sun8.scri.fsu.edu (John Nall)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: A story......
Date: 31 Jul 92 14:08:30 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Organization: SCRI, Florida State University

I suppose that I can be justly accused of wasting bandwidth by sending
this, but I have to tell it to someone and probably this group would
appreciate it more than most.

Crusing down the highway in the old MB 300D late yesterday afternoon,
I felt the old familiar tug of a soft tire.  Pulling over to the side,
sure enough I had developed a bubble on the left rear and it was going
down fast.  No problem - I knew there was a spare in trunk, although I
had never used it.  (I've only had the car a couple of months - an old
1977 that I picked up cheap.  I had checked to see if there was an inflated
spare when I bought it).

Anyway, jacked it up, pulled the flat off, put the spare tirE on, tightened
the lug bolts and let it back down.  I noticed that the wheel on the flat
was a fancy mag, as were the other three, whereas the spare was not a mag.
But didn't think anything about it, other than that it made the car look
a little tacky, with three mag wheels and one regular wheel.

Put the flat in the trunk, shut the lid, wiped my hands good (glad I always
carry some rags) and started her up.  Put it in gear, it went about 6 inches,
and stopped.  "Hmmmm..." thought I. "Guess there is a rock or something
under a wheel."  Backed up about a foot and it stopped again.  Got out, looked
under all the tires.  No rocks, no branches, no deep holes, nothing except
just flat pavement-shoulder.  "Hmmmmm...again...", thought I.  Got back in
the car.  Same thing.  Had to be something strange about the new tire.  Jacked
car up, took tire off, looked at it carefully.  Looked ok.  While I had it off,
turned everything by hand and it turned ok.  Put the tire back on, and while
it was still jacked up, turned it by hand.  It would go about halfway around
in either direction, and then stop.

Well, to make a long story short....and I didn't deduce this right away...the
lug bolts for the mag wheel were too long for the regular wheel, and going
in too far.  Striking part of the brake mechanism.

Interesting????  It was a long walk to find a telephone.  The temperature
here is 97.  Humidity is 90%.  Bugs are out in force.

John

--
"...There's no time.  The nuclear reactor will blow any minute.  I'll have to modify
 the kernel on the fly."   Mitty slid into the analyst's chair and calmly began
 displaying memory locations, changing some of them.  The others watched in
 awe.  The nuclear reactor ominously went "pocketa, pocketa, pocketa..."
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:10422 rec.autos.vw:4462
From: rxxgpf@minyos.xx.rmit.oz.au (Greg Farrelly)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Cleaning injectors
Date: 30 Jul 92 16:13:41 GMT
Organization: RMIT Computer Centre, Melbourne Australia.

jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond) writes:


>transistor hooked to one bit on the parallel port.  Contact me if you're
>interested.  There is a detailed article on how to use this software 
>in the free sample issue of my new magazine, Performance Engineering.
>See my sig for how to get one.

>John
>-- 
>John De Armond, WD4OQC               |Interested in high performance mobility?  
>Performance Engineering Magazine (TM) |
>Marietta, Ga                         |Interested in high tech and computers? 
>jgd@dixie.com                        |Write me about PE Magazine
>Need Usenet public Access in Atlanta?  Write Me for info on Dixie.com.
 
Well, this is certainly interesting. Do you have any info available via email?

Greg Farrelly
greg@rmit.edu.au
-- 
Greg Farrelly                                   greg@rmit.edu.au
RMIT Computer Centre.                           Phone:       +61 3 660 3814
& This sig. is brought to you by the letters "V" and "W' and the number 1.&
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Oil Drain Plug Is Stuck
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 30 Jul 92 11:12:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * Jacksonville AR USA * 501-985-0059


-> Actually, 12 pt have another reason too.  They allow you to get into
-> tighter places because the wrench fits at more angles (this argument
-> is more specific to wrenches than sockets).

 Doesn't your ratchet ratchet?  <grin>

 I also own a set of 6-point wrenches.  They're S-K brand, not sold
around here any more.  Snap-On makes some, of course, but I couldn't
afford them.
From: loszewski_im@sage.hnrc.tufts.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Two stroke engines
Date: 27 Jul 92 18:03:31 GMT
Organization: USDA HNRC at Tufts University


Does anybody know anything about two stroke engines?  Are they as good as 
predicted?
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: Oil Drain Plug Is Stuck
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 92 09:53:34 GMT

dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) writes:
: 
: 
:  BTW, there's seldom any reason to buy 12-point sockets.  12-point
: fasteners are quite rare.  6-point sockets don't tend to strip fasteners
: as bad as 12s, particularly oddball "offsize" fasteners.  You know -
: those el cheapo bolts that are somewhere between 1/2 and 9/16, yet
: aren't metric?  Some GM divisions loved them.
:                                                                  
How would these sockets work on 30-year old bolts whose heads have been
reduced in size by rust/flaking action?  The 1/2" doesn't fit, but
they are too big for 12 mm, you get the idea.  A pipe wrench was called
into service in this case (parting out the car, y'know), but the proper
tool would be nice, just for appearances sake if nothing else.

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - you get what you pay for; you pay for what you get.
hinz@picard.med.ge.com


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech