From: u8801863@cs.uow.edu.au (Nigel Brendon Robinson)
Subject: The gnarliest barrell I've ever had + More....(read on)
Organization: Dept of Computer Science, Wollongong University, Australia
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 08:19:25 GMT

Howdy Crewus,

Today I got the best tube of my life.
Admittedly there haven't been a heap to brag about,but todays barrell
took the cake.

Picture this.

A beach break that has a sea floor that's covered in cungee and weed,
green sea grass(I wonder if you can smoke it).
The grass sort of wafts around the place( a bit like the land dwelling variety)
under the currents
motion.It looks  really cool when the water is shallow and all you see is 
green grass.It's a bit like sliding down a hill that's covered in 
grass I suppose.

Mark( the dude from the bells safari)   and myself paddled out to this break
(called sharkies) and it was a left and right peak with about 5 people
out.

Everyone else had caught a wave and was paddling back out.
So I knew I had to  catch a wave it the next couple to ensure I got the cream
of the sets.

The surf I would say was in the 3-4 foot range or head to 1.5 head high.

I saw this wave coming(about a four foot wave) and had the option of going 
left or right.I turned and paddled for it.The wave had a good section.
I took the take off after paddling hard for it.The take off was pretty easy 
really,as it was on my fore-hand.

I bottomed turned and hey-presto,I'm in the barrel and 
this wave is grinding around me.
I was back inside about three or four metres and just flew through the barrell.

I just stood there in awe....................for about three seconds
until there was a big blast of spray and I was spat out the 
other end .
My hair was only wet from the spray of the wave.
It being a dry-hair paddle out.

I hooted loudly arms raised into the air,oblivious of any strange looks.

After that hassling the other surfer's would have been an anti-climax.
So I surfed the left instead with one other guy.
This left made green island(Paul/Lud) inside section look like a cake-walk.
You'd paddle for it and it would just jack in such a way that
it was as though there was one lip which you tried to ride and one
that double sucked under-neath you,so that free fall face plants 
became a common occurrence.
I must have seen about 12(two of my own first hand) of them... the funniest 
one in a sadistic sort of
way was when I saw two guys who'd just paddle out both go for
the wave(one dropped in) and they both copped the double suck treatment and
ended up getting worked.I almost pissed myself laughing.

The two wave's after my barrell were left's that I got worked on by the double 
suck.It's a worrying thing when you sort of free fall and you board stops 
and you keep going,cause all you can see is these brown bits of cungee with 
the green grass everywhere.You get a really good view of the reef before you 
try and implant your body on it from eight foot up.

We stayed out for about 1.5 hours.....caught about 20 lefts and let the pack 
have the right so my barrell stayed special.
*******************************************************************

One other thing that I want to mention that's a really exciting concept
is that of a group meeting of as many dudes as possible from alt.surfing
on this new thing I just discovered today called irc.
It's a group version of talk/otalk.

It's some sort of international group meeting network type of thing where-by 
a conversation is conducted between as many people as  there are.

If you've heard of it then you'll know.
All you do is type 'irc' and you get into it.
It's like a live version of the news network.
So does anyone sound interested in an alt.surfing get together
over the net.It would be fun..... :-)
We could arrange a time.... we'd have to take into account time zone 
differences and all the rest of it for the non-oz persons, but
I'm sure someone knows how to do that.... :-)

So post to me if you are interested or know anything about it.... I'm
only knew at it myself, and I'll see if I can try and be the chief head kicker
organiser..... :-) or :-( I'm not sure which.


Bye Now,
Many good barrells to you all,
Nigel.

 
-- 
What did the bannana say to the vibrator ?
What are you shaking for, s/he's going to eat me.
What did one petifile say to the other petifile ?
Swap you two fives for a ten.