HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: truesdel@ics.uci.edu (R. Scott Truesdell)
Subject: Re: spoke prep
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Organization: University of California, Irvine
Distribution: na
Date: 7 Nov 92 01:15:33 GMT
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech

In article <1992Nov6.210201.8818@athena.mit.edu>, karen@athena.mit.edu
(Karen E. Walrath) wrote:
>
> What is "spoke prep".  I have occasionally seen it in a catelog,
> and someone mentioned it on one of the rec.bike* newsgroups.

Spoke Prep is a product from WheelSmith of Palo Alto, CA. It is a viscus
water-soluble 'soup' that acts as both a lubricant during assembly and a
thread locking agent during riding. It is applied wet, then allowed to dry,
leaving a coating of the stuff on the threads.

I use it when I build my own wheels. Seems like good stuff. A major
advantage is that the spokes and nipples don't accumulate dirt like they do
for a while if grease or oil is used during assembly. It is harder to use
than grease or oil, though.

It is moderately difficult to apply unless you build enough wheels to
really get used to the stuff. If you get too thick a build-up it can make
assembly and adjustment difficult and, in extreme cases, impossible,
necessitating disassembly, cleaning, and reapplication of Spoke Prep. You
also need to have very clean spoke threads for the stuff to work best. If
you do it to lots of spokes at a time, degreasing them isn't too tough a
chore but... really... degreasing spokes  <:-} ...

Also you have to wait for the stuff to dry. If you attempt to assemble the
wheel with the Spoke Prep only partially dry you end up wasting a lot of
time. I tried it once and ended up disassembling everything, cleaning it
all off, and reapplying the goop. Oh yes, and the waiting a lot longer
before reassembling. I may have used my girlfriend's hairdryer to help the
drying process. A good technique is to apply the stuff to lots of spokes at
a time (several hundred?) then set everything aside for a day or two before
starting assembly.

In my final analysis I have mixed feelings on the stuff. In my heart and
mind I think it's good to use the stuff when building wheels BUT it's sort
of a pain in the neck to use it. I do use it most of the time.

  --scott
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: twjm8@isuvax.iastate.edu
Subject: Chain suck
Reply-To: twjm8@isuvax.iastate.edu
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames, Iowa
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 05:13:07 GMT

Here is my mystery:

I have only been mountain biking for real (tm) for a year; I have had no
problem with chain suck until lately.  I bought an MB-1 about 6 weeks ago
(yeah, the bug bit me good) and have had chain suck a couple times wit
h
it.  On one ride, it sucked once and very nearly did so two other times.  I
was lucky to catch it in the act, before the chain got sucked good those 
times.

Tonight, when looking at the bike upside down, I was goofing around pedaling
the bike in the small-small gear.  It looks to me like the chain hits the 
rear derailleur cable and bounces towards the chain rings when the chain 
falls off the inner ring.  When the chain gets between the cable and the
inner ring, the chainring bolts try to pull the chain into the chain suck
position.  Is this the cause of my chain suck?  If so, can I get another 
cable routing device to go beneath my bottom bracket that would route the
cable further away from the inner chainring?  Anyone else have experience
with this?  (I can hardly believe I'm treading new ground here.)

Thanks in advance.

Dave
From: casseres@apple.com (David Casseres)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Mavic 556 Hubs
Date: 11 Nov 92 18:38:11 GMT
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech
Organization: Apple Computer Inc.

In article <1d737nINN5kh@overload.lbl.gov>, chrisv@carnival.lbl.gov (Chris
Moll) wrote:
> 
> gaia@carson.u.washington.edu (I/We are Gaia) writes:
>
> >But if you match everything, it should be just fine.  
> 
> I wouldn't necessarily bet on this.  All the Mavic indexing I've tried has
> been poor to mediocre.  It works, but if you're going to spend that much
> money, you should get something that works well.

How much Mavic indexing have you tried, and what have you compared it with?
 I have a Mavic road triple, with a 7-speed Aris freewheel and a Sedis ATB
chain.  It shifts flawlessly, stays adjusted, and has very few moving parts
compared to Shimano systems; I expect it to last forever, basically, and if
it ever does break all the parts will still be available.  It does feel
different from Shimano indexing; the action of the levers is stiffer, but
not any less accurate.

--

David Casseres
Exclaimer: Wow!
From: ajackson@ernie.Princeton.EDU (Andrew William Jackson)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Environmentally responsible frame painting
Date: 8 Nov 92 02:41:01 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Princeton University
Originator: news@nimaster

In article <1992Oct29.084203.13487@walter.cray.com> bschwart@gath.cray.com (Robert J. Schwartz) writes:
>I've got a couple of frames with rust spots so I've been paying attention
>to the various threads concerning frame painting. I've also been talking
>to some people about waste product disposal, something that has yet to be
>addressed. My main concern is disposing of used stripper. I think there
>are two issues here:
>
>   1) Paint stripper as a hazardous material. As has been pointed out here
>      before, methyl chloride(?) based strippers need to be handled
>      carefully. Other strippers may be safer to breath and handle, but
>      I haven't seen anything on a label about safe methods of disposal.
>
>   2) Paint, suspended in a solvent as a hazardous material. Paint as solid
>      waste is no big deal, provided there is no lead content. Paint in
>      liquid form is a big deal, since it can travel and get into water
>      supplies. I'm assuming this means paint suspended in a solvent as
>      well as unused stuff still in the can.
>
>I'm considering two options:
>
>   1) Sandblasting. Paint as solid waste, no solvent involved.
>
>   2) Take the frames to an auto body shop and have them do the stripping.
>      The assumption here is that people that do a lot of this do not
>      just dump large amounts of stripper but rather are required to
>      dispose of it in some other fashion, probably to a recycler. Is
>      this a correct assumption?
>
>Is the above analysis correct? If not, please advise.
>
>Bob Schwartz
>bschwart@cray.com


Take it to a furniture stripper.  You can probably find someone to do it
for less than $50.  I think that the furniture strippers just separate 
out the paint and dispose of it as hazardous waste and reuse the solvent.

Chemical strippers from the hardware store are ok since they kind of dry
up and form a thick gooey paste.  Just wrap it all up with some newspapers
and paper towels, stick it in a plastic bag, and throw it out the window
of your car on the highway.

ajackson@athena.princeton.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tlt38517@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Terry Thiel)
Subject: Re: Self-Healing Tube Progress Report
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1992 22:29:56 GMT

theall@gdalsrv.sas.upenn.edu (George A. Theall) writes:
>>The Specialized tubes come w/ a 6 mos warranty (replacement).  I sent
>>them my old tube w/ a letter in july and have yet to hear from them.
>>Perhaps they were irked because i requested equal value in butyl
>>tubes, instead of a self healing tube.  grr.
>  I doubt it. In my case it took 2 letters and close to 6 months before 
>Specialized honoured their "warranty". And at least you got 1K miles 
>out of yours; mine didn't hold air from the start.
Same here.   Fortunately I have a good relationship with my dealer and he took
them right back.   They must have really lousy quality control to have this
many complaints.  How hard is it to make a presta valve that doesn't leak?
-Terry
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: weird@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (john.t.erhardt)
Subject: Replacing plastic retention plate on Look pedals.
Organization: AT&T
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 20:26:23 GMT

I reember maybe about a year ago someone posting about having cracked the
plastic retention plate or a Look pedal.  I don't remember if he or she
ever fixed this.   A few weeks ago I cracked mine while trying to see
just how fast one can ride over gravel while turning and braking ;-)
It seems that Look in France only supplies replacement  plates to the
US for warranty uses.  So I would have to send the pedal to the US office
for them to do it.  Well here;s some good news...

I don't know which may it goes I think Mavic manufactures for Look.  I would say
this because Look first made only ski bindings and Mavic makes bike parts.
The yellow Mavic pedals say "Look et Mavic" or was it "Mavic et Look"  I can't
remember which.  It means something in French.  
The important thing is that the retention plate is exactly the same.  The Mavic
plate can be ordered from France.  The only drawback is that it will take a 
while.  This is still better than having to buy a new pedal.
So I now have one white look pedal with a black retention plate that says Mavic.

I'm liking Mavic more and more.  Does anyone have any more news on their new
eight speed hubs or their electric derailluer?  Also, can any one give me
comments on how their current drive trains shift (road and mountian bike)?

Thanks

John Erhardt
From: craigb@sdd.hp.com (Craig Bosworth)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Stiction in front suspension
Date: 9 Nov 1992 14:14:04 -0800
Organization: Hewlett Packard, San Diego Division
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: hpsdl136.sdd.hp.com

Greetings--

I seek the wisdom on the net on the issue of stiction in front suspensions.

Has anyone compared (on a real ride, not in a parking lot) conventional
telescoping front suspensions, eg. RockShox, with lower stiction designs,
like Cannondale's needle bearings or AMP's trapezoid linkage?

I have ridden a Cannondale over some curbs and things and was very impressed
with its silky smooth feel.  I have leaned on several different conventional
telescoping forks and have felt substantial stiction.  That is, I set the 
preload to minimum then gradually lean on the fork with more and more force.
At a certain force, the fork lets go and compresses to a certain point, 
there to stay until I overcome the stiction again.  The Cannondale responds
to the lean test with practically no stiction.

Does this make any difference on the trail?

For my next bike I will probably get a front suspension model in the $700-
$1000 range.  I am leaning toward a Cannondale with LX components.

Am I a victim of Cannondale's marketing hype?  Is there a reason to prefer
conventional telescoping forks?

Thanks in advance for any info...

(Watch this space for the elastomer vs. oil damping and fat vs. conventional 
tubing questions)
-- 
Craig Bosworth  (619) 592-8609
Hewlett-Packard, San Diego Division
craigb@sdd.hp.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: josh@Happy-Man.com (Joshua_Putnam)
Subject: Re: About clipless pedals
Reply-To: Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com
Organization: Happy Man Corp., Vashon Island, WA 98070-7399
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 20:50:58 GMT

In <9167@blue.cis.pitt.edu.UUCP> jwgst2+@pitt.edu (James W Gourgoutis) writes:

>With all the talk on the net about clipless pedals and their increased "safety"
>in accidents (as opposed to standard clips & straps) recently, I've become 
>concerned.  Presently, I have standard clips and straps on both my road
>and mountain bikes.  Are clipless pedal systems safer in the event of an 
>accident?  I'm getting more and more paranoid with all the talk about road
>rash on the net, and I don't want to fall and remain attached to the bike.

My personal crash experience on and off road is that cleats
and straps will let go easily enough in an accident -- I've
never had an injury related to staying strapped in.  I use
leather straps, so they're a bit elastic.  I don't have
enough experience with nylon straps to comment.

>	So basically, do you think that I need/should get clipless pedals,
>and if so what kind?  Please keep in mind that I have a cheap bike and a very
>low budget. 

I wouldn't go clipless for safety, though there might be a
slight improvement.  Not to say I don't like clipless
pedals.  I got Looks back in '87 and still like them if I
don't need to walk on a ride.

[really belongs in .marketplace, I suppose]

>	Speaking of shoes, does anyone have any opinions on the Specialized
>Dirt Dogs on sale in the nashbar catalog for $29.00?  What kinds of pedals
>are they compatible with?  They look almost exactly like my Pro Dogs, except
>they are supposed to have a more "walkable" sole. 

They have an old-fashioned slotted cleat and are not drilled
for any other type of cleat.  The sole is good for walking
-- relatively soft rubber with a bit of tread, and the cleat
has metal tips so it won't wear out as fast as standard
plastic cleats.  I find the shoes an excellent compromise
for touring and commuting, and the price is hard to beat.
Mine have over 10,000 miles on them and are still holding
together well.  I also like them off road, since I haven't
made the jump to clipless pedals on my hybrid & mountain
bikes yet.

The cleat drilling is no big deal, anyway.  Put in some
T-nuts if you want a Look bolt pattern.
-- 
 Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com    Happy Man Corp.  206/463-9399 x102
 4410 SW Pt. Robinson Rd., Vashon Island, WA  98070-7399  fax x108
 We publish SOLID VALUE for the intelligent investor.  NextMail OK
Info free; sample $20: Send POSTAL addr: Solid-Value@happy-man.com
From: waldrond@waikato.ac.nz
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Trailer with infant and toddler
Date: 11 Nov 92 13:45:21 +1300
Organization: University of Waikato, Hamilton, New Zealand

Has anyone successfully hauled 2 children in a Burley trailer when the
younger one is only 3 months old?   We have a 3 month old and a 2 year old
and I'm looking for a way to put them in there, so that they'll both
be comfortable. When we had only one 3 month old, we just put her in the
car safety seat and strapped the car safety seat inside the trailer. 
There isn't enough room for the car safety seat and the 2 year old in the
trailer. The 3 month old can't sit up by herself, so she needs some
support.  What's the solution?

Thanks,
Dan
waldrond@ruakura.cri.nz
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: bschwart@ferris.cray.com (Robert J. Schwartz)
Subject: Re: Girvin Flex-Stem on Road Bikes
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 12 Nov 92 09:17:20 CST

Dave Maycon writes:
>  [Flex-Stem on a time trial bike?]

I've been experimenting with a Flex-Stem on road bikes this summer. It may
or may not be a good idea.

I originally got it for TT use. Our state TT course has lots of frost damage
(Andy Weaver once won NATIONALS!!! with a 55 on it) so I was looking for
something to provide some shock absorption on rough pavement. It easily met
that objective. Riding rough sections with my elbows in the cups was no
problem. No bounce at all. I don't know how much speed this translated into,
I think the main benefit is that rough pavement doesn't screw up your
concentration or form.

I should mention that it works best with a stiffer bumper, since you've
got so much weight on it. If the bumper is too soft, you'll still bounce,
it'll just be delayed a bit from when you hit the bump.

Since I had the thing, I thought I'd put it on my road bike just to see
what would happen. The executive summary is that I wouldn't recommend
them for general road use. Observations:

- It's got a wide clamp. If your bar has a lot of bend in any one spot, it'll
  be difficult to install.

- If your current stem has a LOT of rise sticking out of the headset, you may
  be able to duplicate your current bar position. Chances are your bar will
  be higher.

- You only get noticable shock absorption on normal road surfaces with a
  very soft bumper. You also get a lot of extra leverage with the extra
  length of the brake hoods. This means the bars will move when climbing
  out of the saddle with hands on the brake hoods. This takes some getting
  use to. The bar rotation that you get from the pivot is a pain.

- The reason you get such little shock absorption is that, unlike with
  flat bars, shock forces with road bars do not occur perpendicular to the
  stem rise between pivot and the clamp, at least not when your hands are
  on the drops. You get the best effect when riding on the hoods, but even
  there it's not that great since most of your weight when you're riding
  upright is on the saddle.

The reason I'm not being specific about the bumpers is because I'm not
using the official Girven ones. Bumpers similar to the official Girven ones
with varying degrees of stiffness are used in skateboards and don't require
a special order.

I do think road shocks in general are a good idea. I hope somebody is working
on it.

Bob Schwartz
bschwart@cray.com
From: cc5i+@andrew.cmu.edu (Christopher Herbert Carroll)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: I NEED A BOLT!
Date: 7 Nov 92 20:54:20 GMT
Organization: Senior, Civil Engineering, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA

I just bought an old Shimano deo. XT rear derailer which was in fair
condition, but it was missing the bolt and washer which clamp the cable
onto it.  I thought it would be fairly easy to find this bolt at a
nearby bike shop (Kraynick's), but I had no luck. 
 Does anyone have suggestions or a bolt they wnat to sell me?

Thanks,  Chris
From: piltch@ariel.lerc.nasa.gov (Nancy Piltch)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Another annoying lighting question
Date: 9 Nov 92 21:50:00 GMT
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <1992Nov7.015556.18503@inmet.camb.inmet.com>, lenny@inmet.camb.inmet.com (Len Goodman) writes...
> 
>Does anyone understand the relationship between the different ways to 
>measure light output from a bulb: watts, lux, lumens, candlepower, candela,
>plus any others you can think of.
>Any explanation would be appreciated.

A watt is a unit of power, or energy per unit time. (1W is 1 Joule/sec.)

The following definitions are copied from National Bureau of Standards
Special Publication 330 (1986). (Now NIST.) Comments in square
brackets are my additions.

A candela is the "luminous intensity" (um, sure), in a given direction, 
of a source that emits monochromatic radiation of frequency 540 THz
(T = 10^12) and that has a radiant intensity in that direction of 1/683 
watt per steradian. [Candela, lumen, and lux are all defined in terms
of a specific frequency of light. Candela can be thought of similarly
to watt/steradian, i.e. a directional quantity. Candela can be
increased either by increasing power or by reducing the angular
divergence.]

The lumen is the luminous flux emitted in a solid angle of one
steradian by a point source having a uniform intensity of one candela.
[Lumen is used similarly to watt as a power unit - but is defined in
terms of a specified frequency.]

The lux is the illuminance produced by a luminous flux of one lumen
uniformly distributed over a surface of one square meter. 
[Lux, or lumen per square meter, is the frequency-specific equivalent
to watts per square meter.]

Nancy Piltch            piltch@ariel.lerc.nasa.gov
NASA Lewis Research Center, Cleveland Ohio 44135
Xref: sparky rec.bicycles.tech:1771 rec.sport.triathlon:1388 rec.bicycles.marketplace:1025
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech,rec.sport.triathlon,rec.bicycles.marketplace
Subject: Re: Oakly shades
From: fossumt@stolaf.edu (Theodore B Fossum)
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1992 21:49:56 GMT
Organization: St. Olaf College, Northfield, MN

In article <1d6patINNi09@golem.wcc.govt.nz>, sangster@med.wcc.govt.nz writes:
|> In article <03NOV92.13008151.0076@UNBVM1.CSD.UNB.CA>, E5EM <E5EM@UNB.CA> writes:
|> > Has anyone out there tried a pair of the new Oakly Sub Zero shades?
|> >I'm thinking of buying a pair and would appreciate any comments.
|> >Also, are they only available in black iridium?
|> >
|> 
|> No, I haven't tried them. I just use 69c sunglasses which have 100%
|> UV filters. It doesn't matter if they fall off, and you dont lose your
|> $100 excess on your insurance, that would happen if you lose, break etc
|> your DOAKLEYS
|> 
I haven't tried them either.  However I am a person who really likes Oakley eyewear.
Not becuase they are the "in" thing like a lot of people, but because the company has
stood behind there shades when I have dealt with them.  I had a pair of razorblades
and the brow piece was broken while I was practicing with my Ultimate Frisbee team (the
ol' disk the face problem).  To make a long story short, Oakley replaced the piece for
free even after I offered to pay for a new one, just so I could get a new one.

I now have a pair of M-Frames (Mumbos) with the Blue-Iridium Sweep lenses.  I spent
about $130 on them and I feel they are worth it.  For ME they are worth $130.  For
someone who just wants a pair of sunglasses that are UV and Blue light -, don't get 
Oakleys.  But I spend enough time with the things sitting on my face (lots of biking,
running, ultimate, sand v-ball, skiing, driving, walking) that it is nice to have a pair of shades
that I forget that I am wearing them.  They don't darken a lot (the blue-Irdiums have a low
shading factor) so I can wear them on cloudy days so as to protect against UV (UV goes through
clouds) and I can still see where I am going.  They are very light and super clear, especially 
the Ms with the HDO.

Just my $130.

Ted
_______________________________________________________________________________
It is easy to describe the beautiful painting you have created, when there
is no risk anyone will see it.
Write to: fossumt@stolaf.edu
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"Eat Beaf Stew or go home!!"                    :)
"The best long distance runners eat raw meat, run naked and sleep in the snow"
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech,rec.bicycles
From: josh@Happy-Man.com (Joshua_Putnam)
Subject: Winter riding -- garnet tires?
Summary: Has anyone tried making garnet tires?
Reply-To: Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com
Organization: Happy Man Corp., Vashon Island, WA 98070-7399
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 21:55:32 GMT

With the return of patchy ice and frost on the roads, I've
been playing with the idea of garnet tires.  Unlike studded
tires, garnet car tires are almost as smooth and quiet on
pavement as ordinary tires, but still have some additional
traction on ice.  Before I go to the trouble of slathering
liquid latex on a tire and rolling it in abrasive grit, I
thought I'd see if anyone else has tried this.

My current idea is to put garnet or carborundum grit onto a
moderately-wide slick, say an Avocet Road, using something
like Le Tour's "New Tread" compound.  I'd like to cover
around 1/4 of the surface with grit, so I'd still have
plenty of rubber on the road when the pavement isn't icy.

Has anyone tried this?  Seen or heard reports of other
people trying it?  I know there are commercial studded tires
out there -- are there any garnet tires?

Just a thought that came to me sliding across an icy bridge
yesterday.
-- 
 Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com    Happy Man Corp.  206/463-9399 x102
 4410 SW Pt. Robinson Rd., Vashon Island, WA  98070-7399  fax x108
 We publish SOLID VALUE for the intelligent investor.  NextMail OK
Info free; sample $20: Send POSTAL addr: Solid-Value@happy-man.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech