HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: kenk@lookout.it.uswc.uswest.com (Ken Kaliszewski)
Subject: Portable heaters in shop
Organization: U S WEST Information Technologies
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1992 08:00:35 GMT

With the onset of winter I was wondering what others out there do to
heat their shops.  I'm looking mainly for comments on portable heaters,
both electric or kerosine and how safe they might be in the shop.  I
currently have no dust collection system and I am a little concerned about
starting a fire or something.

Any comments are appreciated.

Ken
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: hubcap@hubcap.clemson.edu (System Janitor)
Subject: Wood from Siberia...
Organization: Clemson University
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 17:17:36 GMT

I've heard rumor that the former Soviet Union is going to start exploiting
the great Siberian forests. I wonder how that affects us? Are large quantities
of old growth lumber going to start being available? I don't have any idea
what kind of trees grow there. Vast stands of slow growth yellow pine type
stuff? Giant conifers with heartwood like that of Cyprus? Wonderful hardwoods?

Anyone have any info?

-Mike
From: garry@alice.att.com (garry hodgson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Circular Saw recommendations
Summary: CR is for "the rest of us"
Date: 12 Nov 92 15:07:40 GMT
Reply-To: garry@alice.UUCP ()
Distribution: rec
Organization: AT&T, Bell Labs

In article <1992Nov10.001626.15349@intellistor.com> grun@intellistor.com (Paul Grun) writes:

>It seems to me that Sears stuff often comes out on top of the
>Consumer Reports ratings....either they're testing stuff
>substantially different than what I see in the store, or
>else (more likely) their criteria for evaluation is *significantly*
>different from mine.

This is often the case with CR, at least if you are an enthusiast
of some activity.  Audiophiles regularly sneer at their tests of audio
equipment, car nuts laugh at their road tests, etc.  Remember, they
are reviewing things in the interest of the general population,
*not* the hard-core woodworker or audiophile.  You would expect
their criteria and (perhaps more important) weighting factors to
differ significantly from yours and mine.

>Seems like their criteria is often driven
>more by $ and less by quality considerations.

I'm not sure this necessarily follows.  I've seen any number of tests
(not necessarily tools) that recommend higher priced versions,
but only when they feel the additional quality/benefits obtained
are worth the extra $$.

Your mileage may vary.

PS.	I let CR pick my toaster ovens and dish detergent,
	but not my stereo or tools.

PPS.	I once read a hilarious parady in a motorcyle magazine
	of a CR test of a modern superbike.  The article complained
	about the fact that everytime they stopped at a light,
	the bike tipped over.  Definitely a safety issue :-)

-- 
Garry Hodgson			A slow winter day
AT&T Bell Labs			A night like forever
garry@alice.att.com		Sink like a stone
att!alice!garry			Float like a feather
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bellas@soldev.TTI.COM (Pete Bellas)
Subject: Wood for laminating
Reply-To: bellas@soldev.TTI.COM (Pete Bellas)
Organization: Transaction Technology, Inc.
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 18:49:43 GMT

I am building a toy sleigh (used for holding teddy bears). I am planning on
laminating 1/8" x 3/4" strips to make the highly curved runners. I would
like to use alternating strips of light and dark wood. The main body of the
sleigh will be red oak so I was thinking of using that for one of the 
strips. I could then use either a dark wood (walnut?) or a light wood (ash,
maple?) for contrast. 

So much for set up :-). Are there problems of compatibility when laminating
woods like this (expansion, etc.) that would make a particular combination
better than another? Also, how many strips can you glue up at a time? Lastly
what type of glue would you recommend? TIA.

			-Pete-


* Pete Bellas                   "Cogito ergo spud"                         *
* Citicorp/TTI                       I think therefore I yam.              *
* Santa Monica, CA                                                         *
* bellas@gamma.tti.com                                                     *
From: berry@a.chem.upenn.edu (Don Berry)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: UV and glass
Date: 5 Nov 92 21:11:08 GMT
Followup-To: rec.woodworking
Organization: University of Pennsylvania

In article <owens.720987103@gargoyle.uchicago.edu>,
owens@gargoyle.uchicago.edu (Christopher Owens) wrote:
> 
> > UV will go through glass unless the glass has a coating to reflect UV.  
> > Normal clear glass will pass UV.  
> 
> I've always been amused that the people who want to sell you special
> window glass say "Ordinary window glass doesn't pass wonderful,
> health-giving UV, so buy our fancy glass and start reaping the
> benefits of UV," while the folks who want to sell you fancy glass for
> your picture frames say "Ordinary window glass passes damaging UV, so
> buy our fancy glass and start protecting your valuable artwork from
> this menace."
> 
>  Anybody know what gives?

   This is a pretty common problem, and it depends on what you mean by
"UV".  Remember those sun-screen commercials with the "tanning rays" and
the "burning rays"?  The former are long wavelength UV (longer than 
ca. 300 nm), whereas the latter are shorter wavelength (ca. 250 nm). Note
that most people can see from 400 - 800 nm (visible range), and that short
wavelengths are more energetic.

   Ordinary borosilicate glass (windows, etc.) absorb light with
wavelengths shorter than ca. 280 nm, but pass the longer wavelength UV.  
Pyrex is similar.  On the other hand, Quartz, Vycor, "crystal", fused
silica and other special glasses are transparent down to  ca. 200 nm,
which means they pass the more energetic UV rays in sunlight.  

  As far as health benefits of the short wave UV light, I guess some
people might identify two: (1) UV disenfects (kills bacteria) and
(2) UV + oxygen makes ozone, which some folks claim is healthful in
small doses.  Unfortunately, UV also kills skin cells and ozone is
a very reactive molecule which also trashes the skin, lungs, and other
assorted membranes.  Doesn't sound too healthy to me. 

   Although for many applications you'd like to filter out even the 
long wavelength UV, this is tough to accomplish with a material that
appears "colorless" to the human eye;  that is, materials which absorb
strongly at 350 nm also tend to absorb some visible (violet) light, which
makes them appear yellow to us.  Not so good for housing rare paintings, 
etc.

Hopes this helps.

Don Berry
Department of Chemistry
University of Pennsylvania
From: sestrich@yeti.bbn.com (Joe Sestrich)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Rip fence to the left?
Date: 9 Nov 92 16:47:28
Organization: BBN Communications, Cambridge, MA
Distribution: na
NNTP-Posting-Host: yeti.bbn.com
In-reply-to: bennett@adobe.com's message of 9 Nov 92 19:16:18 GMT


	OK, First of all, I'm left handed, so this will be totally confused.

	I have a very old Atlas saw on which the blade tilts toward the left.
	I have always used the right slot for crosscutting, and the fence to
	the right of the blade.  For a lefty, this all makes perfect sense.
	I get to "hide" behind the fence for rips, and it seems to be the
	most comfortable setup for crosscutting.

	What did I just say?  I agree with you 100% -- I think the "standard"
	setup (except for blade tilt) is ideal for a lefty!

	I, however cannot remember seeing anyone use the left side of the
	saw for crosscutting, except where there was a sliding table on
	the (huge) saw on the left. It seems that the big wing on the right
	is just too easy to use for supporting the end of a board....


						Joe Sestrich
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: problem with planer
Date: 13 Nov 92 20:26:45 GMT
Organization: LLNL

In article <1992Nov12.230113.788@dptg.att.com>, ramos@dptg.att.com (8522[rbb]-Rich Ramos(AH0232)HOLDMT) writes:
[deleted]
> 	1)  If the problem is with the threads on the height adjustment 
> 	    mechanism, how much would this cost to replace/repair and would 
> 	    it be worth the trouble (assuming this was the only thing wrong)?

If it's anything like the Taiwanese copies of Delta products, there are
four (multiple) acme-threaded screw jacks that adjust table height.  Some
sort of simultaneous rotation mechanism (chain drive in the Grizzly) is
provided.  If the screwjacks get out of synch, they jam.  If the sales
creature has been cranking hard in such a situation, the nuts may be
damaged.  If not, setting the chain up right will fix it.  Sounds like
incompetent assembly, which, given your description, is a distinct
possibility.

> 	2)  Am I right about the phase indicator?

yes
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Straight Edge for Jointer Alignment
Date: 13 Nov 92 20:44:43 GMT
Organization: LLNL

In article <1992Nov12.100236.14404@u.washington.edu>, whit@carson.u.washington.edu (John Whitmore) writes:
> 
[deleted]
> 	Firstly, plate glass is ground flat.  It should easily
> be flat enough for 1 mil or so over a couple of feet.

First I've heard, but I'm willing to learn something new.  Where did
you get this information.

> 
> 	Secondly, most thick glass is NOT plate glass, it is
> FLOAT glass (floated as a sheet onto liquid tin to flatten),
> and this is considerably cheaper than plate glass.

This, in fact, was how I thought they made plate glass.  Certainly since
"plate glass" is often said to be used for windows, either the popular
use of the term is wrong, or somehow they've managed to reduce the
practice of grinding to optical clarity to a very inexpensive procedure.
Comments?

> 
> 	Thirdly, people ARE making precision optical components
> from selected pieces of plate glass and float glass.  They have
> done so for years.  One such device I am familiar with is
> a reflector for energy selection of X-rays, and the flatness 
> requirement is pretty close to atomic sizes for this application.
> 
It's certainly not the way they make lenses, telescope mirrors, and optical
flats.  Mirror blanks in smaller sizes are typically cast pyrex.  So are
optical flats, and I know they grind those.  Lenses, at least up to the
age of polycarbonate plastic, were made from flint or crown glass delivered
in cast billets.  I've never heard of glass being used for x-ray reflection
because it's not crystalline.  They usually use quartz or a metal to get
the crystalline structure.  X-rays of selected wavelength are reflected
by interference, for which you need the regular crystalline structure.
Glass doesn't have it, it's amorphous.

I'm interested to have you clear these points up.

Gary
From: tlp00@climb.as (Tibor Polgar)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Tools Made in America
Date: 11 Nov 92 02:10:56 GMT
Reply-To: tlp00@climb.as
Organization: Sun Microsystems


In article p1rlb@rpi.edu, ameres@ithaca.cat.rpi.edu (Eric Ameres) writes:

>I'm just starting out in outfitting my shop. I have a DeWalt 7749
>Radial Arm Saw (with shaping attachments), Ryobi RE600 router (and

Where did you get your DeWalt radial arm saw and how do you like it?   I'm currently 
stuck with a P.O.S. Sears.

>Right now I have an immediate need for a good set of router bits.

Try BYROM,  or CMT.   Both are US i think.   I've used MOON SAW & TOOL for the former
(30% off list) and only have a catalog for the later.   800 phone numbers can be gotten through directory assistence.   Although not 100% american, Amama (made in Israel and 
US) are great bits.   Best prices are though BELLEW (?) SAW  ... about 30% off list.
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Straight Edge for Jointer Alignment
Date: 9 Nov 92 16:54:48 GMT
Organization: LLNL

In article <JOHN.92Nov6033117@azulita.cactus.org>, john@azulita.cactus.org (John R. Miller) writes:
> 
> In article <140610@lll-winken.LLNL.GOV> gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot) writes:
> 
>   The way they made sure it was an arc with infinite radius was to sight the
>   two ends and the middle with a theodolite or surveyor's transit.  Since light
>   moves in an almost straight line in Earth's gravitational field, aligning the
>   ends and the middle gave them the three points they needed.  Ought to be
>   child's play for a guy working on the MMT.
> 
> I should let this pass, as it's getting rather far off the subject of
> this newsgroup, but I find that I can't.

OK, I won't either.

>  Light doesn't move in an
> almost straight line, and it doesn't matter whether it's in a strong
> gravitational field or a weak one or no field at all.  Light moves in
> a perfectly straight line, period.

Wrong.  It moves in a line that minimizes the action integral.  When in
a gravitational field, it moves in a curve in a subspace of an enclosing
flat space in a line called a geodesic.  The geodesic is curved.

> When physicists speak of light
> being curved around a body (the sun, for example), they really mean
> that space is curved around it but light continues to follow the
> straightest path possible, as it always does.

No, they mean it moves in a curve that minimizes the action.

>  In particular, it
> follows the path you would want an ideal straight edge to follow.
> 

No, they say the famous star occultation tests around the sun showed that
the sun's gravitational field bent starlight from an ideal straight line.
Consequently, the geodesic cannot be an ideal straight line, because there
was a deviation.


> (I am, however, ignoring the effects of variations in the medium that
> can cause refraction, or, even more obviously nonstraight,
> reflection.)
> 

Also, you are ignoring the history of physics, calculus of variations, and
the classical development of Einstein's general relativity.

> In fact, I was thinking of suggesting that the original poster borrow
> a laser from work to align the jointer.
> ----

Actually from Tony's latest post, he's done well enough without our help,
although it's been fun proposing it.  BTW, my original comment about
gravitational deviation in Earth's field was tongue in cheek, since
no Earthly instrument could detect it.  We've waited for Hubble and other
high-powered telescopes to see the lensing effect and you need a handy
galaxy to get really visible effects.  If Tony avoids operating his new
jointer on neutron stars, he should be ok.  He'd have a little sag at the
table ends if he did, anyway.

Gary
From: colflgg@hubcap.clemson.edu (john f passafiume)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Cradle Plans
Keywords: cradle rocker baby
Date: 12 Nov 92 21:03:58 GMT
Article-I.D.: hubcap.1992Nov12.210358.14717
Organization: Clemson University

I need some pointers to sources of plans for building a cradle for my
new grandchild who is scheduled to arrive on the scene in late May. 
Can anyone point me to sources of plans for a simple cradle. I have a
table saw, and thats about it, i.e., no router, shaper, planer, lathe, etc.
so cannot do anything too elaborate. I am not against assembling a pre-cut
kit as long as the finished product has the potential of being decent,
that is, assuming I don't mess up. Pointer will be greatly appreciated.
As I am new to this group, please excuse if this is a FAQ.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ameres@ithaca.cat.rpi.edu (Eric Ameres)
Subject: Tools Made in America
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy NY
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 20:35:44 GMT

Anyone out there keeping track of what tools/bits/blades/etc... are
still made in America (USA)?  I just read a rather disturbing article
about the USA-Japanese trade problem (with a little blurb about the
national debt just to totally ruin your day) and started to feel more
and more guilty about the wonderful Ryobi router I just bought.

If you want a copy of the article drop me a note (if enough responses
I will post it (it is a bit long)).

After hearing so much about how Delta/Sears/etc... are selling
Taiwanese products with their nameplate on them I wanted to find out
what models were US made.  Is it only the high end stuff?

I'm just starting out in outfitting my shop. I have a DeWalt 7749
Radial Arm Saw (with shaping attachments), Ryobi RE600 router (and
plans to make the Woodsmith Router Table and dovetailing jig) as well
as virtually all the other "normal" power tools (drills, jig saw,
circular saw, electric stapler, etc...).  Believe it or not, I would
like to buy American where I can and wouldn't mind paying a little
more for quality stuff.  Perhaps mid-line(+) Delta?  10" Contracter's
saw (w/unifence), 14" bandsaw, scroll saw, eventually a lathe...)

Right now I have an immediate need for a good set of router bits.
Seems like most are made in Taiwan (or in the case of Freud, Italy).
Are Vermont American's any good?  How bad are Sears'?  I also need to
get a good doweling jig for edge to side doweling (sources and prices
would be appreciated).

Eric.

ps.  It's a long story but to those keeping score, because of some
strange twists of fate I opted for the Woodsmith build your own
-- 
------------------- Note the new address !!! -------------------------
Eric Ameres,  Software Engineer                 ameres@cat.rpi.edu
New York State Center for Advanced Technology in Automation & Robotics
Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute - CII 8313, Troy, NY 12180-3590
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bds@mbunix.mitre.org (Smith)
Subject: custom lathes made in Ohio
Organization: The MITRE Corporation, Bedford, MA
Distribution: rec.woodworking
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 14:21:44 GMT

To follow up for those of you who have asked me, the man in Ohio who
builds lathes is

Harold Barker
3106 Klinger Rd.
Ada, Ohio 45810
(419) 634 7328

I'd like to thank David Nells for telling me about him.  Harold is
sort of the classic American toolmaker--works in his own shop
fabricating the parts he needs and can't get through other means, has
1 helper, knows everything you might want to know (he taught
woodworking for many years), and is willing to talk your ears off
(probably will even if you aren't).  Send him a note or call him.  He
will send you a package including pictures.  He also sells photocopy
reprints of a few hundred books, some he compiled himself (eg,
projects).  He told me the other day that he is currently building
about 2-3 lathes per week (this time of year).

Here is his description of his standard lathe:

	My standard cast iron and steel bed lathe ($425) is 45"
between centers with a 16" turn at the gap and 12" thereafter.  It
weighs 185 lbs. and has 6" and 4" faceplates plus a live tailstock
center.  It has indexing, a Morse 2 spur on the inboard, double sealed
bearings in front and a single behind on the outboard.  The shaft is
1" with 8 threads per inch.  My sturdy lathe is similar to the
Rockwell 46202 (costing about $1400) but is better constructed and
bigger.  The headstock and tailstock units are cast iron resting on a
classy welded bed with 2" by 1/2" cold roll ways or tracks.  My welder
places the entire bed in clamped jigs so there is hardly any
contraction or expansion of steel.  The tapered 3/8"x3" sides are to
1/2" hot roll plate bridging (also welded to ways).  This style with
55" between centers is $460.

He also has 3 other models:

Super Lathe is 350 lbs, 60" between centers, 18" turn at the gap and
12" thereafter, with 2 1/4" ways, 1 1/4" shaft, and costs $685.

Bowl turning lathe is 400 lbs, 30" between centers, 26" turn at the
gap and 20" thereafter, 2" shaft, and costs $850.

Porch post lathe is 96" between centers.

Any of his lathes can be ordered in any length.  You supply the motor
and bench.  Mine is the standard lathe with 55" between centers.  He
was concerned about the length, so he made it with the ways of the
super lathe for strength (no extra charge).  It's built like a tank.
The lathe with head and tail stock and tool rest weighs over 225 lbs.
That's without a motor or bench.  He also has a reasonably complete
line of accessories.

Barry


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: whit@carson.u.washington.edu (John Whitmore)
Subject: Re: UV and glass
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1992 21:53:31 GMT

In article <berry-051192155316@si.chem.upenn.edu> berry@a.chem.upenn.edu (Don Berry) writes:
>In article <owens.720987103@gargoyle.uchicago.edu>,
>owens@gargoyle.uchicago.edu (Christopher Owens) wrote:

>> window glass say "Ordinary window glass doesn't pass wonderful,
>> health-giving UV, so buy our fancy glass and start reaping the
>> benefits of UV," while the folks who want to sell you fancy glass for
>> your picture frames say "Ordinary window glass passes damaging UV, so
>> buy our fancy glass and start protecting your valuable artwork from
>> this menace."

>   Ordinary borosilicate glass (windows, etc.) absorb light with
>wavelengths shorter than ca. 280 nm, but pass the longer wavelength UV.  

>   Although for many applications you'd like to filter out even the 
>long wavelength UV, this is tough to accomplish with a material that
>appears "colorless" to the human eye;  that is, materials which absorb
>strongly at 350 nm also tend to absorb some visible (violet) light, which
>makes them appear yellow to us.  Not so good for housing rare paintings, 
>etc.

	There's another kind of damage that the long-wave UV can 
cause; it kills the fabrics in drapery (except for fiberglass),
and can bleach upholstery and bookbindings.  Next time you're in
Washington, D.C., stop in at the archives and look at the Constitution.
It's visible, dimly, in a yellow-lit case.  

	Paint pigments are usually mineral based, and don't 
degrade in UV; dyes on cloth are more sensitive.  The cloth
itself gets VERY rotten and brittle after extended sunlight
exposure.

	John Whitmore


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bds@mbunix.mitre.org (Smith)
Subject: Re: Lathe recommendations?
Keywords: lathe, beginner, low-cost
Organization: The MITRE Corporation, Bedford, MA
Distribution: rec
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 13:53:03 GMT

In article <24121@alice.att.com> garry@alice.UUCP () writes:
>Note:
>
>I'm reposting this, as I haven't heard a word about
>it and suspect it didn't get out.  Sorry if you've already
>seen it.
>
>Hi folks -
>
>I've been thinking about looking for a lathe this year.
>I don't know much about them, and have no previous experience
>to draw upon.  I'd be interested in turning some bowls,
>sticks (for martial arts use), etc.  I don't have a lot
>to spend, maybe ~200.

>Garry Hodgson			A slow winter day



Don't take this the wrong way, but for $200 your choices are extremely
limited, possibly limited to none.  You can get a very good lathe
for as little as $425 plus motor, bench, and a few other accessories,
but this lathe is handbuilt by a retired man in Ohio (name and phone
number on request).  A very good commercial lathe is probably $1000 or
more.  For $200 you can hardly get a decent motor.

Barry
From: saintv@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Stephen Saint-Vincent)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Help! Ruined Table Saw Table
Date: 6 Nov 92 21:26:00 GMT
Reply-To: saintv@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Stephen Saint-Vincent)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD


I have found that an excellent way to restore rusted metal surfaces
is to scrape off the course rust with a scraper; then get out the belt
sander with a 150 grit belt. Use the belt sander to bring out the "white"
metal. After this use a jitter bug sander with 200 grit abrasive and
the top  will be just as good as new. Do not worry the belt sander and
jitter bug will not sand your top out of flat or what ever. It has worked
quite well for me. My Powermatic jointer has about 1/16 inch rust scale
on it when I purchased it and it now in a beautiful, well tuned machine.
When you finish sanding put a layer of carnuba wax on the table which
will prevent it from flash rusting.
Good Luck
Steve
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking