HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: sbixby@cup.portal.com (Steven W Bixby)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: gyro manufacturers/vendors
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 92 09:04:53 PST
Organization: The Portal System (TM)

>does anyone have a list of the various gyro products that 
>are intended for RC use??

No, but......

>also is anyone aware of any "solid-state" gyros, i.e. those that
>do not use a motor but rather use some sort of piezoelectric, or 
>piezoresistive effect??

JR has just come out with a brand new gyro for helis that is solid state.
One of the heli-oriented articles, or new products columns in either RCM
or MAN mentioned it.  First thing I saw was the price, tho... even at full
street discount it'll be around $220...  The size is supposed to be the
same as mechanical gyros.  Seems to me it should shrink.  Maybe a second
generation will be smaller.

  -swb- (Steve Bixby, sbixby@cup.portal.com)
From: bloom@inland.com
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Fox vs Supertigre, which do'ya like?
Date: 19 Nov 92 08:12:06 CST
Organization: Inland Steel Company; East Chicago, IN

In article <1992Nov12.004516.27027@iex.uucp>, djones@iex.iex.com writes:
> In article <1992Nov9.234921.2975@mnemosyne.cs.du.edu> vkochend@nyx.cs.du.edu
> (vance kochenderfer) writes:
>>
>>     Well, the guys out at my field don't like Fox engines.  They really
>>don't like Fox engines.  I haven't heard a whole lot about Supertigre,
>>but what I have heard is generally positive.  I'd say it's probably a
>>good idea to spend the extra $70 and save yourself the hassle.  But that's
>>just me.


The guys at my field who do have Fox engines say they're good engines, 
however this just may be a defense against all the ribbing they get 
for buying a Fox.  They seem to require an awful lot of fiddling to keep 
running.  The Fox engines are very crudely machined, some would 
say ugly.  The needle valve is positively painful to turn (looks like it 
was machined with a wood rasp).  Most Fox engines use either a lapped 
iron piston or a ringed piston, and require much longer break-in than 
other engines like the Supertigre.  A Fox .45 costs about $80, a Supertigre 
.45 ABC costs about $112.  Fox does provide excellent warranty work 
with quick turnaround time.  The guys at my hobby shop steer customers 
away from Fox engines even though they sell them.  I'd spend the 
extra money and get the ST.
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: bobwo@ecs.comm.mot.com (Bob Woodhouse)
Subject: Batteries Dump - Strange.
Organization: secure_comm
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 14:09:34 GMT

Hello,

I went racing in the 1/10 scale off-road electric 2WD Mod Buggy class
this weekend for about the 8th time at my favorite track.  I have raced
there several weekends where I had recorded the motor, gears, and battery 
that I used to finish a race.  This weekend, for all 3 qualifiers and a main,
I could not finish a race without dumping, eventhough I was using the
same setups that had worked before.  I would dump slightly after 3 minutes
on a relatively fast, non-twisty course, at that.  The only new element
at this race was that instead of peak charging by watching a DVM, I used
a Novak Digi-Peak which I have some confidence in since I felt for post-peak
battery warmth and since the Digi-Peak seems to call peaks just about where I 
would have if watching the meter.  A possibly peripheral note is that my 6-cell
pack of p-170s was always accommodated by minor, yet irritating glitching
with the motor, but not the steering.  The motors I used were a Reedy Mr. S
12D and a Speedworks "427" 16D.  I have disassembled the motors to find that
the 12D is kind of dirty and has a somewhat worn commutator.  The 16D, however,
looks rather clean and in good shape.  Both of these motors were used this
weekend when the dumps occured.  The transmission feels as good as it ever
has.  The ESC is a Futaba MC210B, which may not be ideal, but it has worked
OK before.  The dumping was always of the type where the car would creep to a
stop and then if you waited a bit, you could get it moving along for a while
longer, that is, the battery wasn't totally drained at the first halting.
No extremely unusual heat was noticed at ESC, battery, or motor.  Obviously,
I am concerned by this situation;  can anyone offer advice?

Have a good day,
Bob Woodhouse
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: larry@peak.psl.nmsu.edu (Evil Engineer doin' it the Cowboy Way)
Subject: message to LYMAN LEW
Organization: New Mexico State University, MetaPhysical Science Laboratory
Distribution: rec.models.rc
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1992 23:50:34 GMT

Apologies for posting to the entire group, but Lyman, my latest email
reply to you bounced. You might want to ask your net guru if something was
busted. I'll try sending it again in a couple of days.

L.
.
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: waynew@cs.washington.edu (Wayne Wong)
Subject: ROAR 1/10th electric 2wd off-road nationals
Organization: Computer Science & Engineering, U. of Washington, Seattle
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 92 00:09:21 GMT

Does anyone have info. on the truck or car classes?  
How did the big drivers and manufacturers do?
Any new snazzy toys tested there?

Thanks,
Wayne
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: svoboda@rtsg.mot.com (David Svoboda)
Subject: Re: Radio Selection (really!)
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 17:09:14 GMT

In article <24063@hacgate.SCG.HAC.COM> lew@4ccvw16.UUCP (Lyman Lew) writes:
|In article <1992Nov17.182912.13751@clpd.kodak.com> staffan@ca.serum.kodak.com (Kenneth Staffan (x37507)) writes:
|>Not to change the engine discussion which is starting under the Radio
|>Selection thread, but :-)...  
|>
|>I  was an RC flyer up until about 13 years ago (my, how time flies!).  In 
|>brief spare moments between my job, my thesis and my kid (who's not yet 
|>old enough to get into it :-), I consider picking it up again.  I have a
|>Kraft 5-channel radio.  I watched the radio selection discussion, and didn't
|>see Kraft mentioned.  Seemed like they were one of the popular choices back
|>when I was still active.  Have they gone out of business or otherwise fallen
|>into disfavor?
|>
|>Ken
|>---
|>staffan@serum.kodak.com
|
|Yes, Kraft is no longer in business though parts are still available from
|a supplier in the midwest. Kraft decided to fold up in the mid 80's when
|they couldn't compete against Futaba and other imports. They were the
|last massed produced US radio. I wouldn't bother using the Kraft anymore. 
|Especially if it is 10 years or older. It may not meet 1991 specs.

Ooooooooo.  Noooooooo.

See, Kraft had always been a little more expensive than the imports, but pretty
clearly of higher quality, so they were VERY popular.  Kraft folded when Phil 
Kraft left the business, and those in charge decided to move the production from 
Vista California to overseas, to save costs.  That move, for whatever reason,
lowered the quality to that of much of the lower-priced competition, yet kept
the higher price, and Kraft, Inc. quickly lost it's market share.

My father still uses two Kraft Sport 5 systems, that he bought in 1973.  The
transmitters were changed to current frequencies and brought gold-label spec
by Kraft Midwest, but all the recievers are still wide-band.

I can tell you a million stories of Kraft quality and reliability, but the latest
thing that showed me the Kraft standards was last weekend when I was visiting
my parents, I took with me a current state-of-the-art micro-servo (a Futaba
133) to compare to my dad's stock of Kraft KPS-18 micros.  No comparison.  The
Kraft is WAY smaller, lighter, draws less current, and moves faster.  That's
about 1978 technology.

As for "last mass produced US radio", I think you are forgetting Ace.  And
Cannon.  Both are still around.  (Although I don't know that Cannon is made
in the US any more.)  Ace DEFINITELY mass produces radios--I've seen their
assembly facility, in Higginsville, MO.

Anyway, Ken, if you decide to bag your Kraft radio, allow me to buy it from
you.  For an AM radio, I don't think you could get more reliable.  And if
you decide to use it, find the address for KMI in a magazine, or email me
and I'll give it to you.  They do very good work.

		Dave Svoboda, Palatine, IL
From: row0@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (RICHARD O. WHITE)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Metal Hydride Batteries
Date: 19 Nov 92 16:50:10 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

Hi RC'ers
I came across Ovonics Batteries Co.
              1826 Northwood Dr.
              Troy, MI. 48084
              (313)-362-1750
Listed as what's new in Pop. Sci. (dec 92 pg 74) about
metal hydride batteries.. They claim a 2X energy density
over Ni-cad cells with a recharge time of 15 mins!!!!!!!

I sent for info ... not recieved as of this posting
I will post more if any one wants what their product line turns out to be..
like 7.2V and 8.4v packs or AA or standard cells ect...

Hope this helps a few inquires about this item a few weeks ago..

Bye.... ROW0@Lehigh.edu
Standard disclaimers ect.....Who said we had to give up our toys???
                             The wives did.....Shhhhh Here she comes now..
                             Bye. click

--
Organization: University of Maine System
Date: Friday, 20 Nov 1992 12:36:03 EST
From: <IO10046@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Question About Speed Controls.

    I have a question about the operation of speed controllers.
What is ment by high frequency speed controls?  I known that they
are supossed to be better for the motor and its brushes but why?
Does it reduce brush arching?  What does the output of a controller
look like?  Maybe:

    ----  ----  ----    7.2V
    |  |  |  |  |  |
    |  |  |  |  |  |
 ----  ----  ----  ---  0.0V

    What is the frequency?  In the KHz?


Aaron Brasslett
University of Maine
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: lesnyd@monsanto.com (Larry E. Snyder)
Subject: Re: Rocket Powered Gliders 
Organization: DSC
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 21:36:37 GMT

In article <1992Nov16.200518.15585@acuson.com>, griffith@acuson.com (Paul Griffiths) writes:
> 
> 
> 	Has anyone seen/heard/tried anything with regards to
> the rocket powered gliders?!  The boxes seem to suggest rocket
> assist takeoff to 1000 ft or so and hours of gliding enjoyment...
> I have quite a few hours of thermal soaring and am sorta tempted
> to give one a try, but something tells me I'd be getting way over
> my head..(no pun intended) Any comments?!
> 			-Paul
> 
RCM had a review of the Phoenix rocket-boosted glider in the last issue
(December?). They gave it a pretty glowing review. You should find a copy of
that for details on what it's like to fly one. I understand the boost stage
is quite exciting...

Larry
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: svoboda@rtsg.mot.com (David Svoboda)
Subject: Re: Another Fiberglassing Question....
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 21:46:19 GMT

In article <69769@cup.portal.com> sbixby@cup.portal.com (Steven W Bixby) writes:
|
|YUCK! Not an option, IMHO.  :)
|
|In my (limited) experience with glassing, 

Mmm hmm.

|As far as POLYYUCKSTER resin, it's unhealthy, relatively speaking.  

No.  Breathing epoxy fumes over time causes a particular sort of allergic
reaction to occur, in which the tissues around your heart expand, causing
pain very much like a heart-attack, and can actualy cause cardiac arrest
if taken to extremes.  Epoxy is VERY bad stuff.

Polyester has no such effect.  

|It smells

Just because it smells more, doesn't mean it's worse for your body.  You
should be modeling in a well-ventilated area, anyway.  See above, about
epoxy fumes.

|doesn't cure very well in thin layers, 

If you expect thin layers, use slightly more catalyst.  Give it time, it cures
just fine in thin layers.

|almost impossible to thin or clean
|off with solvents, 

You were using the wrong solvents for cleaning.  I have been using polyester resin
for many years, (mostly for glassing solid framework wings, but I use polyester to
reinforce just about anything) and have never once had to thin it for brushing.

|doesn't sand worth a sh*t.  

I get the impression you tried polyester, used it improperly, and are bashing
it based on that.  There is no comparison between epoxy and polyester when it 
comes to sanding.  When polyester hardens, it forms a very hard, crisp surface, 
one that can be feathered, and sanded to a VERY smooth finish, for painting.  

|All IMHO, of course.  

A strong opinion, at that.

|Mileage
|WILL vary, especially since I've used it numerous times in the past, before
|"discovering" epoxy finishing resins.

Why do I doubt that?

|			Dave Svoboda, Palatine, IL

Please don't sign my name to your posts.

		Dave Svoboda, Palatine, IL
From: billg@hpspdla.spd.HP.COM (Bill Gingras)
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 16:13:38 GMT
Subject: Re: Another Fiberglassing Question....
Organization: HP Stanford Park - Palo Alto, CA
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc


I stick the glass down first using 3M-77 (I think that's what it's
called) spray adhesive and then pour the epoxy over that.  Spray only a
light mist coat over the fuse and let it sit for a few minutes.  That
way, when you apply the glass, it won't stick tight and you can peel it
up and reposition it if necessary.  After the glass is positioned
correctly, pressing itmdown will stick it to the fuse very well and then
you can apply your epoxy over it.  This works well for 0.56 oz (very
lightweight) cloth, but I assume it would work well for heavier cloth
also.

- Bill G
From: v064myby@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (Christophe J Quaranta)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Skis & Cold weather running
Date: 19 Nov 92 16:06:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41


	As I live in cold & snowy western New York, I'm wondering if I could
put skis on my pt40 trainer & fly it off of snow?
	Has anyone tried this? 
	Also what's the best way to keep the engine running in cold (10-20 
degree) weather? I've heard various solutions involving hose clamps around
the cylinder, adding gasoline to the fuel, etc.  
	Any help would be greatly appreciated.
				
							Latre,
							'Q'
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: svoboda@rtsg.mot.com (David Svoboda)
Subject: Re: Plane for .19 engine?
Keywords: Second plane, sport trainer
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 19:20:37 GMT

In article <BxtvD5.Kyy@csn.org> eeak@teal.csn.org (Ed Krejcik) writes:
|Since I have lots of time to shop around (I haven't finished my EAGLE II yet),
|I'm still trying to figure out a good plane for an old Enya .19 I have.
|
|Does anybody know anything about the SIG Doubler II?  Its for a .15 size 
|engine.  Looking at the box at my local hobby shop, it looks like a 
|smaller version of the SIG Mid Star 40.  The Mid Star 40 gets great
|reviews at my local flying field and from RCM.

While I have never owned one, I have test flown two Doublers, and I have
the wing from another (a perfectly good wing that someone threw in the 
dumpster at the field).  By those test flights, and the shape of the wing 
I have, I can tell you that that is NOT a smaller version of the Mid Star.  
The Doubler is a small pylon racing plane, and is VERY hot, probably too
hot for a second airplane, especially on a .19.

As a nice second plane for a .19, I might suggest an Ace 4-20, or a
CG Junior Tiger, or any other shoulder or low wing, semi-symmetrical
airfoil sport planes.

		Dave Svoboda, Palatine, IL
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: hsk@tk7.oulu.fi (Hannu Kauppinen)
Subject: NiCd chargers
Organization: University of Oulu, Dept. of EE, Finland
Distribution: rec
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 06:33:10 GMT

The December 92 number of Elektor Electronics (the English version) contains some interesting constructions for NiCd users:

-a delta-peak NiCd charger, simple and low-cost construction, the construction is for 6 1.2 Ah cells (input is 12V) but can be modified to other amount of cells
-an automatic NiCd charger, for slow charging, charges connected cells when their voltage drops below preset level
-a temperature monitor for charging the NiCds

I have not build these so I can't tell how they work. If somebody has, please write comments to this newsgroup

--
+------------------------------------------+----------------------------+
| Hannu Kauppinen, University of Oulu      | phone:  +358-(9)81-5532795 |
| Department of Electrical Engineering     | email:      hsk@ee.oulu.fi |
| Computer Laboratory, 90570 Oulu, Finland | fax:    +358-(9)81-5532600 | 
+------------------------------------------+----------------------------+
From: torsten@rnivh.rni.sub.org (Torsten Leibold)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Attaching Plastic Windows
Date: 14 Nov 92 16:29:12 GMT
Organization: Rhein-Neckar-Informationsdienst Viernheim

sbixby@cup.portal.com (Steven W Bixby) writes:

>Believe it or not, I get my fastest/easiest/usually-the-best results
>with CA.  The trick is to wick very small amounts of thin glue along the
>edges.  You must let the glue dry when there's very little of it to prevent
>the 'milking' of the plastic.  A very good fit of the plastic is important.
[...]

And furthermore you shouldn't use accelerators. It would cause the
glue to dry to fast and it could 'milk' the plastic by itself.
(learned it the hard way, too).

Bye,
  Torsten.

-- 
  +---------------------------------------------------------------------------+
  |          Torsten Leibold, Hard- und Software, Viernheim, Germany          |
  |  UUCP: torsten@rnivh.rni.sub.org  ..!unido!cat!orfeo!rnihd!rnivh!torsten  |
  +---------------------------------------------------------------------------+
From: macs@worke.Eng.Sun.COM (This IS a test)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Rubber Power Planes
Date: 20 Nov 1992 21:05:00 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Mt. View, Ca.
NNTP-Posting-Host: worke

In article <1992Nov18.094059.1@pa881a.inland.com> schiewer@pa881a.inland.com (Don Schiewer) writes:
>
>I went to an indoor rubber powered meeting last night.  I was
>really impressed.  I noticed that most of the guys were power
>RC fliers taking to rubber power for the winter.
>
>One of the designers from from MIDWEST models was there.  He
>had the ultra-light film planes as well as good flying flat paper
>profile planes.
>
>I am looking for suggestions for which type of rubber power plane
>I should build first.  Are there any HP plotter plans out there?

Find a Micro-X Easy-B kit and go from there. It is a relatively
good kit and an excellent introduction to building indoor planes.

If possible, locate a copy of Ken Johnson's book on indoor
models.  It one of the best I have seen on the suject.  Micro-X,
Indoor Model Supply, or Peck-Polymers are sources for these two items.
Their addresses can be found in Model Builder or Model Aviation magazines.

Manuel.
From: sbixby@cup.portal.com (Steven W Bixby)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Another Fiberglassing Question....
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 92 09:30:02 PST
Organization: The Portal System (TM)
  <1992Nov17.152802.26427@rtsg.mot.com> <69769@cup.portal.com>
  <1992Nov20.214619.9638@rtsg.mot.com>

< 'debate' about polyester vs epoxy deleted >

>I get the impression you tried polyester, used it improperly, and are bashing
>it based on that.  There is no comparison between epoxy and polyester when it 
>comes to sanding.  When polyester hardens, it forms a very hard, crisp
> surface,
>one that can be feathered, and sanded to a VERY smooth finish, for painting.  

It's entirely possible I did just that.  I used it for a long time, (6-7 years)
and stopped when I just seemed to have better luck with PEC's
finishing/laminating epoxy.  I'm ashamed to say I am bashing polyester,
but I guess I'm not very fond of it.  I also guess I could try it again
and find I might like it.  The single biggest thing about polyester that
I didn't like, was that it made me sick to use it, physically ill; light-
headed, nauseated.  Probably isolated to just a few people with sensitivity
to it.  I do not know any hard facts about it, just personal observation.

>A strong opinion, at that.

I do that, sometimes.  :)

>|Mileage
>|WILL vary, especially since I've used it numerous times in the past, before
>|"discovering" epoxy finishing resins.
>
>Why do I doubt that?

I dunno, why do you?

>|			Dave Svoboda, Palatine, IL

>Please don't sign my name to your posts.

Sorry, I must have left it in the text file, out of sight, before mailing
it.  Now, if you want to start a flame war, count me out, I've better things
to do.

  -swb-
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: hqp@cbnewsk.cb.att.com (hai.quang.pham)
Subject: Electric motor for airplane
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 19:44:11 GMT
Keywords: Performance



I would to get more information about electric motors for airplane.
Are there any books to compare the performance of the different motors
and whre to buy them?
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: colangel@carla.JSC.NASA.GOV (Michael Colangelo/MDSSC)
Subject: Re: Realistic P-40 Kit
Organization: IGOAL
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 02:58:46 GMT

You may want to look into the TopFlite P-40(N?) kit.  It's all wood except 
for the cowl.  I've built the all-wood P-47 and thought it was a good kit.

- Mike
From: robertw@informix.com (Robert Weinberg)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Another Fiberglassing Question....
Date: 16 Nov 92 16:28:43 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

I just had my first experience fiberglassing a fuse this weekend, and it didn't go  
too well.

My main problem was getting the fiberglass to stick where it wrapped around edges.  
It just wanted to pop up, so I came back after the epoxy got very tacky and pressed  
the glass back down, with limited successs. There's gotta be a much better way. I  
was using 20-minute hobby epoxy and pretty light reinforcing strips (sorry, no  
weight given on the package).

How do you make the fiberglass lay down nice and tight while the epoxy sets up?

--
+================================+================================+
|         Rob Weinberg           |  Workstation publications tech |
|   Email : robertw@informix.com |        Graphic designer        |
|   Voice : 415-926-6754         |     <imagine your ad here>     |
+================================+================================+
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc