From: twc@svcs1.UUCP (Ted Chan)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: 240Z restoral (was: Datsun 240Z/260Z)
Date: 18 Aug 92 08:34:22 GMT
Organization: Silicon Valley Computer Society, Sunnyvale, CA

From article <s2@byu.edu>, by earlyd@ee.byu.edu (David Early):
> 
> 
> We are looking at getting a new restoration project going, and
> we wondered if there was anyone out there that had had any expereince
> with the old Datsun 240Z/260Z.  We would like to find a '70 240Z, but that
> is unlikely around here.

I just finished "restoring" a 1970 240Z.  There are occasionally such
beasties offered for sale in very good/excellent condition for $4K to
$10K.  I wouldn't start with an INTERIOR in less than very good condition
because the interior pieces for the '70 Z's are hard or impossible to find.
You can find later Z parts that fit, but this is not advisable for
a true restoral.
 
> Questions are:
>  1-Are parts available, and will they cost a fortune?

Most, but not all parts are available.  Or more precisely, just about
all of the parts are available, but you might have to make due with
parts from a later model year.  Since these cars are prone to rust, many
junk yard parts are pretty easily available, though the plastic pieces
from the junkers are usually pretty beat.  Motorsport Auto in LA and
Long Motor Company can get you most of the restoral parts.

> 2-We have little experience with Japanese engines.  All our projects
> have been American cars.  Anything we ought to know?

Check for rust.  Repeat this three times.  Make sure the dash isn't cracked.
The labor/time and cost involved in replacing a dash is quite high.  The
clock will probably be broken.  Punch out the clear plastic face and
replace with smoked/tinted plastic.  Build a digital LED clock into the
housing.  While this isn't strictly kosher, it is probably the right
compromise to make, because in my experience, all of the original Jetco
clocks were junk.  As for the engine, many parts interchange with later
model Z engines and with datsun 510 engines .  Except for early Z
cylinder heads, engine parts are not a problem whatsoever.  Later 240Z
heads with 2.8 litre blocks work just as well and yield more than a 9:1
compression ratio, if that is desired.  Use the 280Z valves. (You can get
flat or dished pistons to tweak the compression ratio.)  In summary, this
is a very simple and reliable single-overhead-cam inline six.  Nothing
complicated or expensive here.

> 3- Is it worth it?  I had a friend whose father put a lot of money into a
> 260Z and loved it.  He finally sold it an bought a Miata a couple of years
> back.  He liked it so much, though, that I thought this might be a fun car to
> work on/drive.

I think it's worth it.  The suspension needs only better springs and
front and rear sway bars to really perform.  Modern tires and gas shocks
are also a must.  If you want high performance, you can get a 280Z
block.  A Nisson Maxima Diesel crank can be used to stroke the engine.  You 
can go 2mm overbore using a set of Datsun LZ22 pistons.  Rods of
appropriate length can be obtained from Z's and 510 engines.  The
latter mods work out to about 3 litres.  With proper carbs and header/
exhaust and cam, 250 HP should be within reach.  With a turbo and
proper fuel/air delivery (and some sort of anti-detonation control),
300+ HP can be had.
 
> Any expereince with these cars, especially problems you may have had
> with working on it would be greatly appreciated.

The car is great fun.  Mine is about 2400 lbs with about 250 hp.
The car is lowered and has all of the appropriate suspension mods.
Adjustable camber bushings are a must for lowered cars.  Poly
bushings all around are also highly recommended.  Remarkably,
the ride isn't that harsh.

If you wish to undertake this project, remember that this was NEVER a
refined vehicle.  It is badly insulated (=> noisy).  It WILL develop
rust.  When you work on the interior, those 22 year old plastic pieces
might come crumbling apart.  Also, if you fully restore the car, it
probably will not be worth more than you put into it.  But given
the handling potential and low weight, the car can be made into a
real screamer.  For cheap.  Oh, incidentally, the engine bay is
incredibly roomy so that engine work is a cinch.

--twc@legal.uucp

P.S. Stereo placement should be: 1) high end black plate speakers
in the kick panels (some metal cutting here).  This placement is
inobtrusive and doesn't look as bad as door mounts.  Forget the
rear quarter speaker mounts.  If you must have subs, look at the
rear deck area (where later model Z's have tool boxes), under the
rear deck carpet.  2) 100 watt+ amp goes neatly under the seat.
3) Yes, you need (1) and (2) because this really is a loud car
(wind noise, engine noise at high rpm).  I like the raw sports
car sound, but this is not a universal affliction.

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