HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: ljb@parkcity.dr.att.com (BLO54620-BonhamLJ(DR2194)240)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: WIDER Wheels
Date: 28 Sep 92 20:29:53 GMT

In article <8eln9He00iUxQ3fVh9@andrew.cmu.edu>, sk4k+@andrew.cmu.edu (Stephen James Kendrish) writes:
|> 
|> Let's get this straight.  The subject says Wider Wheels, not Winter
|> Wheels.  I don't see a connection, do you?  If someone wants to ask a
|> question, don't reply to another question.  I posted my question to get
|> an answer not another question.  Richard Banks must be a politician.
|> 
|> Let me try again: 
|> 
|>        After serious consideration and budgeting, I've decided to
|> install a set of 17 x 9.5 wheels on my '87 Trans Am.  Now, after
|> deciding, I need to know exactly how to do this.  I know it can be done
|> because I've seen them on late model Camaros in a few magazines.  I
|> figure that the rear wheels shouldn't be a problem.  The front wheels,
|> however, are where the problem will be.  One magazine gave a vague
|> description of a Camaro saying something about a ten millimeter offset. 
|> I've also heard stuff about removing half a coil from the front springs
|> and removing the fender flares.  If anyone out there has done this to
|> their Firebird or Camaro, please tell me how its done.  For all I know,
|> there might even be a conversion kit out there right under my my nose
|> (Herb Adams or something).  Any input would be well appreciated.
|> 
|> Thanks
|> 
|> Steve 



I just recently went through the same exercise you`re contemplating except it was
to fit 16X8 front and 17X9.5 rears on a '68 Charger.  What I did was to go to
knowledgable tire dealer (Discount Tire in Denver CO) and have them advise me.
The actual process was to examine the car with current tire/wheel combination
installed.  By visually verifing how much clearance existed in all positions ie.
wheels turned lock to lock, full jounce, full rebound etc. we were able to use
the existing back-spacing (scrub radii) as a base line for the new measurements.  
Then we ordered a front and rear mock-up wheel from HRE in Calif. built to the
new measurements and test fitted them to ensure adequate clearance.  As it turned
out, our guesstaments were correct and the final production wheels worked great
with the 245/50-ZR16 and 275/40-ZR17 Comp TA tires.  The new rolling stock
combined with NASCAR spec front torsion bars and Hemi rear leafs has yield a
combo which allows my 3800lbs tank to hold its own against late model Vettes,
911's, RX-7's etc. in the mountains west of Denver.  One phenomenon which I
encountered which you may want to watch out for was that the wider front rubber
likes to follow grooves and cracks in the pavement and leads to some on-center
wandering.



Celtus Outacontrolus

"Good God! Why should they mock poor fellows thus!
 We are but warriors for the working day."
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: DOHC on a V8 possible?
Date: 6 Oct 92 08:44:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> If there was one thing to be changed on the '82 to '92 F-cars, it
-> would be to ditch the live axle and adopt a Corvette rear-end setup.
-> Guess we'll have to wait another ten years...

 Unfortunately, the '84-up Corvette IRS isn't all that great.  The
original ones were geometrically a swing axle.  They dropped the
inboard lower pivot points a few years ago to try to correct the
geometry a bit, but it's still prone to nasty camber changes.  Chevy
limits the travel and runs some stiffish springs to try to keep the
jacking effect down, but the tires still tend to rise up on edge on
bumpy tracks, and then you spin out.

 On a rough course, an F-body or Mustang can usually take a late
Corvette.  The advantages of lower unsprung weight don't quite make up
for sucko geometry.
                                                                        
From: borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 15:54:06 GMT
Subject: Re: Only one brake pad is worn out
Organization: Hewlett Packard Company, Spokane, Wa.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

In rec.autos.tech, bartnik@acsu.buffalo.edu (David Bartnik) writes:

>My wife noticed that her front disc brakes on her 88 1/2 Ford Escort
>were grinding on the right side when she was driving to work yesterday.
>This was strange because I had changed the pads about 7000 miles before.
>When I looked at them, I saw that the inside pad was worn completely
>down to the metal but the outside was as good as new (as if it was never
>used).  Checking the left side revealed the same thing, only not as bad.
>The rotors were rough on the inside surfaces but smooth on the outside.
>The car has about 40K on it. What could cause this uneven wear?  It
>It appears that the calipers aren't adjusting themselves as the pads wear
>down.  Anyone else experience this?

When you replaced the old brake pads, did you disassemble the caliper to
clean and lubricate the sliding surfaces?  I'll bet you didn't, or if you
did, you put it back together wrong.

Remember that you have a piston to push the pad into the disk on only one
side.  The other side gets pushed into the disc by the reaction force of
the piston pushing on the caliper assembly, which is supposed to slide to
allow this other pad to get pushed into the disk.  If this portion of the
caliper assembly does not slide freely, this pad will not retract, and
will continue to rub against the disk, thus causing premature wear.


Donald Borowski    WA6OMI    Hewlett-Packard, Spokane Division
"Angels are able to fly because they take themselves so lightly."
                                       -G.K. Chesterton
From: james@koko.csustan.edu (Jonas Grumpy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Why Not More Reverse Flow Cooling?
Date: 1 Oct 92 05:59:55 GMT
Organization: CSU Stanislaus

In article <43370007@hpspkla.spk.hp.com> borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski) writes:
>Well, netters, here is my question again.  I've tried it twice, with no
>answer.
>
>As many of you know, the Corvette LT1 engine, and now the engine is the
>'93 Toyota Corolla, use reverse flow cooling.  That is, the coolant starts
>its flow through the engine at the heads, and then goes down past the
>cylinder bores before returning to the radiator.  Several advantanges come
>from this, including lower head temperatures (thus less pinging) and more
>even temperatures for the cylinder, causing less taper when in operation.
>
>With these advantages, why isn't reverse flow cooling used on a wider
>scale?  I can hardly believe that it is due to "design inertia" since
>the days of the Model T without a water pump.  Anyone???
>
>
>Donald Borowski    WA6OMI    Hewlett-Packard, Spokane Division
>"Angels are able to fly because they take themselves so lightly."
>                                       -G.K. Chesterton
>

So lets see Toyota and Gm (the masters of engine design) have decided
to go counter culture, and your asking why not? Well I'm sure there are
some good reasons for block to head flow but I think the most important is
that Iron is not a very good conductor compared to aluminum. There fore
it would make sense to cool the Iron first and then the alum. It also
helps to keep the combustion chamber hot because (I think) when a metal
heats up it loses some of its ability to transfer heat. I guess what I'm
trying to say is that you dont want the cyl head to give its heat away.
This heat taken away is less heat for the next charge. As a final argument
I would say that when its good enough for Ferrari, its good enough for
the world.
-- 
C MYSIG  ASIG4U 1RADSIG 2BADSIG SIG U 2     U R SIG   1SIGDOG    ADOTSIG

Vanity .sigs, now only $35     
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: (Eric Youngblood)
Subject: Re: Wax Removal
Reply-To: Peon w/o Email priv (Eric Youngblood)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Richardson, Tx
Date: Fri, 02 Oct 1992 19:46:20 GMT

In article <BvGHG9.CyJ@news.cso.uiuc.edu>, tmkk@uiuc.edu (Khan) writes:
|> 
|> In article <1992Oct1.005129.18636@ultb.isc.rit.edu> awm5440@ritvax.isc.rit.edu writes:
|> >The easiest way to remove wax is fairly simple.
|> >Just go wherever you buy the wax that you use
|> >and they should have a product called "rubbing 
|> >compound". A myriad of companies make the stuff,
|> >I used Turtle Wax's brand on my Monte Carlo. I'm
|> >almost positive that the heavier rubbing compounds
|> >(if not the lights also) will remove wax.
|> 
|> Rubbing Compound also removes PAINT. How do you stop it from removing
|> your paint after it removes your wax?
|> 

More than likely the abbrasive will drive the wax/silicone particles into
the pigment and you'll never be able to get good paint adhesion.

$0.02
Ericy

From: wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 18:44:25 GMT
Subject: Re: WIDER Wheels
Organization: Hewlett Packard - Boise, ID
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

Sound cool but a lot of work.  Starting with Herb Adams is a good plan.

I would imagine that you will have to take out the inner fender liners for
sure and modify the front air dam support structure, plus the fender 
support that holds the leading edge of the front fender out.  Wheel back-
setting will be critical because the strut tube and spring mount are very
close.  If you are getting the wheels local, it's probably not too much of
a problem, especially if the wheels are modular.  If they are fixed wheels,
then getting the correct fit/function may be painful.  For the final bit
of clearance, you may have to slightly modify the clearance behind the
tire for turning (carefully use a large sledge).  

In the rears, just make sure the emergency brake cable/mechanism clears
the wheel.  It could be close if you have 4-wheel discs.

Good luck.

I had to do these things on my '83 Trans Am with wider-than-normal
wheels and tires.

Wes Fujii

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Wes Fujii               *           JAPANESE BUSINESS MOTTO           *
* Boise, Idaho            *        You can buy anything you want        *
* wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com *             with a lot of money             *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty)
Subject: Re: Fuel Injection Question
Organization: New York State Institute for Sebastian Cabot Studies
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 18:14:10 GMT

In article <1992Oct02.162038.36019@lobo.rmhs.colorado.edu> seanr@lobo.rmhs.colorado.edu (Sean Reifschneider) writes:
>In article <92275.78610.J066610@LMSC5.IS.LMSC.LOCKHEED.COM> J066610@LMSC5.IS.LMSC.LOCKHEED.COM writes:
>>Does anyone out there know if there is the equivalent of a choke (cold
>>start vavle ???) for fuel injected cars?  I have been trying to narrow

>Yes, they do have a cold start system, but it depends on what kind of FI
>system you have.  One of the Bosch systems (can't remember which one) has
>an 'aux. air valve) that has a heater element in it.  The heater heats an
>element that closes the AAV when it gets warm.  If the heater element in
>it has died, it would act as you describe.

normally this circuit is in two parts; there is a `thermo time' switch
which signals whether or not there is a need for cold start enrichment,
and there is a cold start injector which dumps extra fuel into the
air intake plenum.  both the older Bosch D and the more current Bosch L
and Bosch Motronic systems are set up in roughly this fashion.  the
cold start injectors rarely fail; the thermo time switches are more
likely to go.

richard
-- 
richard welty                            518-393-7228
welty@cabot.balltown.cma.com
  ``if you can read this, mario, you're too close''
    -- bumper sticker seen on a CART safety truck
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: st1q9@rosie.uh.edu (Devine, Della M)
Subject: Wider REAR Wheels on Blazer.
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: University of Houston
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 18:31:00 GMT

I've got a 1976 Blazer that i bought semi customized.  it had been dropped
something like 8" in the front and 9" in the rear or vice versa and sits
a little low in the back with the wrong tires and wheels in the rear.
The guy that used to have it has the wheels that were on it and i'm
considering purchasing them back from him.  The question i have is this:
  How can one install 15x10's or 15x12's wheels and either Mickey
Thompson 29x12.5's or 29x14.5's in the rear of this truck without having
to narrow the rearend? I remember reading the post about the 'bird and was
wondering if a negative offset of some degree could be used to sink them into
the fenderwells. The wells inside the blazer are already widened five inches
from what he used to have in here, but he swapped out the rearend before i
bought it from him and i'm not sure if the one he had on it was narrowed.
Can anybody send me some information on this? I'm getting enough money from
a college refund to buy the tires and wheels and register it so i can 
actually start driving in the middle of next month and would like to have
the tires and wheels come in the day i get the money so i don't waste any time
and i want to have these mickey Thompson tires on there to make use of the
tubs that are there.. i also like the slammed, prostreet look as this thing
used to mimick and would like to reproduce it. 

                                          many thanks
                                          william c devine ii
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
reply to: devine@pvhep.pvamu.edu
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 18:02:16 GMT
Subject: Re: A question about grease...
Organization: Hewlett Packard - Boise, ID
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

If freeze-up is what you are trying to avoid, I would probably try
to get some Silicone based grease that they use to lube ski bindings
with.  Your local ski shop could probably set you up with some.

Wes Fujii

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Wes Fujii               *           JAPANESE BUSINESS MOTTO           *
* Boise, Idaho            *        You can buy anything you want        *
* wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com *             with a lot of money             *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
From: bartnik@acsu.buffalo.edu (David Bartnik)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Only one brake pad is worn out
Date: 1 Oct 92 18:32:16 GMT
Organization: State University of New York at Buffalo/Comp Sci

My wife noticed that her front disc brakes on her 88 1/2 Ford Escort
were grinding on the right side when she was driving to work yesterday.
This was strange because I had changed the pads about 7000 miles before.
When I looked at them, I saw that the inside pad was worn completely
down to the metal but the outside was as good as new (as if it was never
used).  Checking the left side revealed the same thing, only not as bad.
The rotors were rough on the inside surfaces but smooth on the outside.
The car has about 40K on it. What could cause this uneven wear?  It
It appears that the calipers aren't adjusting themselves as the pads wear
down.  Anyone else experience this?


Dave Bartnik
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sankar@Xenon.Stanford.EDU (Sriram Sankar)
Subject: Balance shafts, engine vibrations, etc.
Originator: sankar@Xenon.Stanford.EDU
Organization: Computer Science Department, Stanford University.
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 16:46:08 GMT


I'm interested in some history information on the balance shaft technology.
I'd like to know who invented it, and which cars today have it (and how long
they have had it).  For example, I know that 1992 Saab 9000's and 1993 Honda
Accords have it, but that's the extent of my knowledge.  Seems like many
other cars must be having it too.  Also, are balance shafts something that
only 4 cylinder engines have, or do some six cylinder engines have them too?
For example, BMWs have 6 cylinders in line and they say its the most
vibration free kind of engine.  Do they use balance shafts to reduce vibration?
What about V-* engines?  Many others say that V-* engines are the most
vibration free.  Finally, what is the source of vibration that balance
shafts can handle?

Hopefully, this message should start off an interesting discussion on
engine vibration and technology to reduce it.

Sriram.
From: arthur@contel0.com (Arthur Resler Engineering Services)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 1981 Buick Front Disc Brake Problem
Date: 1 Oct 92 21:15:47 GMT
Organization: IPC Information Systems, Inc.

It sounds like your right brake is dragging excessively, or your
left one isn't. This is not facetious; a certain amount of drag
from floating caliber disc brakes is normal.

Assuming you particular american car follows american practice,
and in fact does have floating calipers (rather than a separate
cylinder on both sides of the disc) three things seem possible
causes for your problem.

First, that the right wheel bearing is too tight.  Because
floating caliber design rely on disc wobble/runout to push
back the caliper mounted shoe (the cylinder operated shoe
is retracted by the seal in newer designs), moving the caliper
slightly in the process, overly tight wheel bearings can
prevent the disc from thrashing around enough (thousandths
of an inch) to push the caliber away from the shoe.

Second, that the left caliper is not free to float.  When this
happens the wheel drags until the now fixed shoe wears free
of the disc.  Then the brake operates on one side of the disc
(the cylinder side) only, giving less than half the designed 
breaking effect. If you only looked at the outer left shoe
on a car with a frozen caliper you would see limited wear, since
it is effectively "retired"

Third, the left wheel bearing is way too loose, allowing the disc
to knock the caliper too far from the disc for it too recover
in one application of the brakes.

Comments: I don't know if your car has demountable discs, or if
you had to remove the bearings to remove and turn the rotors,
or if you had both wheels' calipers replaced and rotor's
turned.  Obviously if both calipers are new they probably are
not frozen (although I have seen new GM calipers freeze when
the clearancees were too tight); likewise if your bearings
were disassembled I would trust they were correctly replaced;
i.e. tighted to factory specs.

Good luck

Arthur Resler
From: awds_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (ClarkKent)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Spare Parts?
Date: 30 Sep 92 14:38:41 GMT
Distribution: wny
Organization: University of Rochester - Rochester, New York

Anyone out there in (western New York) netland know of a salvage yard
where the operation keeps an inventory of junked cars out stored?  When
I spent a summer in California, they had places where you brought your
own tools, paid 2 bucks  at the gate, and could remove whatever parts
you wanted from any car out there, then pay a flat rate upon exit,usually
a final price could be haggled, etc.  I'd like not to pay ten times
what a part is worth(ie. a trim piece or dash switch) when a salvage
yard might have the same thing for a few dollars.  email or post is
fine if you know of such places.  Thanks

Adam Edwards
awds_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: eliot@stalfos.engr.washington.edu (eliot)
Subject: Re: Balance shafts, engine vibrations, etc.
Organization: clearer than blir
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 01:40:59 GMT

In article <10957@sun13.scri.fsu.edu> rulon@ibms19.scri.fsu.edu (Phil Rulon) writes:
>  Mitsibushi holds a patent on one form of balance shaft technology and it is
>used on many makes (Porsche 944 for example).  The idea is very old though.

I read somewhere that Mitsubishi's patent has expired, which is why
we're seeing a sudden wrath of balance shaft engines.  e.g. Camry 2.2,
Prelude 2.3.  


eliot
From: sk4k+@andrew.cmu.edu (Stephen James Kendrish)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Convertible Conversion
Date: 5 Oct 92 23:51:04 GMT
Organization: Sophomore, Physics, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA


     Does anyone know anything about conversion kits?  I was thinking
about converting a late model Trans Am into a convertible.  Does anyone
know if it's actually worth looking into?  This car already needs new
T-Tops and rear hatch.  What is the best company that does conversions? 
If anyone has had their car converted, tell me how it turned out. I
figured I could also buy the necessary parts to convert from a GM
dealership.  Any feedback would be well appreciated.

Thanks

Steve
From: dye@i88.isc.com (Ken R. Dye )
Subject: Re: DOHC on a V8 possible? (IROC vs. Trans-AM vs NASCAR)
Organization: INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation, Naperville, IL
Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1992 19:56:10 GMT

In article <BvpIBo.EC7@acsu.buffalo.edu> v087mxgb@ubvmsd.cc.buffalo.edu (Shawn E Thompson) writes:
>In article <507.88.uupcb@chaos.lrk.ar.us>, dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) writes...
>> 
>>-> >-> Mustangs, F-cars, Are there any others?
>>-> >
>>-> ><cue in choir music>  Buick Grand National GNX.
>> 

and I wrote:

>>>      NASCAR.  IROC.  TRANS-AM.
>> 
>> Unless someone makes something called a "Nascar", those are racing
>>organizations.  We were talking about cars.  If you were talking about
>>cars, "Trans-Am" and "IROC" are F-bodies as referred to above.
>>      
>i
>
>Well, actually Trans-Am, IROC, and Nascar are *all* race series
>the IROC camaros are styled after the International Race of
>Champion cars (hardly!), and the T/A after the Trans-America
>race cars (barely!)

	Thanks.  Of course, I was referring to the "high performance"
cars that these series run (*not* their production namesakes).  All are
purpose built, tube frame, RWD live axle cars.

	In the SCCA, the GT class allows you to run a live rear axle
in cars that originally had IRS.  

--Ken
-- 
Ken R. Dye				an optimist is a guy		 |
Interactive Systems Corp., Chicago	that has never had		 | 
(800) LAI-UNIX x341			much experience			 |
dye@i88.isc.comm						archy	 |
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hsd@swl.msd.ray.com (HERBERT DASILVA)
Subject: Re: incurable brake shimmy
Organization: Raytheon Company, Tewksbury, MA
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 17:07:51 GMT

hacker@cco.caltech.edu (Jonathan Bruce Hacker) writes:

>My Supra (4 wheel disk brakes) has developed a shimmy that shows
>up under light and heavy (but not medium) braking in the steering
>wheel and brake pedal.  It is worse at high speeds.

>I measured the runout of all four disks and they were well within
>specs.  The worst runout was 0.0020" (spec is 0.0059").  Since rotors
>aren't too expensive, I replaced the both front rotors and repacked
>the bearings following the procedure in the Toyota service manual.
>Now, if anything, the shimmy is a bit worse.

>Anyone got any suggestions on where to go from here?

  Did you replace the pads?  Torque the lugs equally and in a cross
  pattern?  

  Have you recently checked ball joints?
  Steering end links?

>Jon Hacker

	Herb "Mopar Maniac" DaSilva  (OK, so I know it's a Toyota, OK? :-)
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:13160 sci.environment:11616 sci.chem:3733