HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: frankb@chip.tek.com (Frank Bordon  436)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Polyfill
Summary: How much to use and how much does it help?
Date: 30 Jul 92 20:43:07 GMT
Distribution: rec.audio.car
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Beaverton,  OR.


Hello all,
I know this has been talked about before but I was not interested at
that time. I should have paid more attention but....

I am planning on building a box for some subs. I don't have much space
so I thought I would use some polyfill to increase the apparent size of
the enclosure. I have a few questions:

1. How much does this polyfill help? Does it increase the size of the
box by 10%? 20%?...

2. How much polyfill do you use. Do you completely fill the box? Fill it
half full? Glue it to the walls of the box?

3. Does this stuff work the same for ported boxes?

Thank You for any help,
Frank
From: gt0851b@prism.gatech.EDU (David Hoff)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: SPEAKER BOX QUESTION
Date: 24 Jul 92 03:11:58 GMT
Organization: Georgia Institue of Technology

In article <1114.72.uupcb@cutting.hou.tx.us> erich.lim@cutting.hou.tx.us (Erich Lim) writes:
>
>  You should definetly separate the 2 chambers and stuff the box with
>polyester filling or Dacron or something like that.  The stuffing will
>make it sound alot better.
>
> Erich Lim
>  erich.lim@cutting.hou.tx.us
Filling the box will only help if the box was built too small in the first 
place.  It will add some dampening, but the speaker may alreay be over dampened

It it NOT worth it to built separate enclosures for the subs.  The improment
that you get from having independent enclosures does not justify the extra 
weight.

Just make sure that you use 3/4" particle board and seal every possible joint
with caulk and liquid nails.  FYI The best, most expensive speaker will not
produce any bass in a bad enclosure, be even the most pathetic speaker
(Pyramid included) can rock if the enclosure is well built.
>                                              


-- 
|  Error reading file REALITY.SYS (A)bort (P)anic (R)eboot universe ?    |
|  Georgia Institute of Technology Atlanta Georgia, 30332                |
|              Internet: gt0851b@prism.gatech.edu                        |
|  uucp: ...!{decvax,hplabs,ncar,purdue,rutgers}!gatech!prism!gt0851b!   |
From: john@newave.mn.org (John A. Weeks III)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Stock rear speakers intentionally weak??
Date: 24 Jul 92 03:13:45 GMT
Organization: Newave Communications, Ltd, Lake Wobegon, MN

In <3521@blue.cis.pitt.edu.UUCP> macman+@pitt.edu (Dennis H Lippert):
> In <1992Jul20.181421.349@crc.ricoh.com> chilton@crc.ricoh.com (Jeff Chilton):
> > dschille@jekyll.eng.uci.edu (David Schiller) writes:
> > > I just bought a new Mazda MX-6/LS, and I noticed that the front speakers
> > NEVER NEVER NEVER get the factory audio system.

> I dare you to try and get an "LS" without a stereo! Maybe it can be done,
> but I'd bet it'd be *really* hard  to do on a Japanese car (I know, it 
> could well be build in Michigan, but can you *order* a Japanese-make?)

When I ran a stereo shop back in the late 1970's and early 80's, there
was a new Federal Trade Commission law that required car dealers to, upon
request by a buyer, remove the factory audio system and credit the list
price of the radio equipment.  This law also required all cars to be
equiped with an electrical plug for a radio even if a radio was not an
option in that car.

If this law is still in effect, it should be fairly easy to get the dealer
to remove the radio, once the dealer is made aware of the FTC rule.

The FTC rule was put in effect after Pioneer and Craig filed a restraint
of trade suit against the auto companies.

-john-

-- 
==============================================================================
John A. Weeks III		(612) 942-6969		    john@newave.mn.org
Newave Communications, Ltd.			    ..!uunet!tcnet!newave!john
From: granteri@pnet51.orb.mn.org (Grant Erickson)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: System Upgrade Recommendations
Date: 26 Jul 92 06:45:07 GMT
Organization: People-Net [pnet51], Minneapolis, MN.

I have several system upgrade questions which I'd like to throw at the net for
those who have experience with any of these products.

1) Front Door Speakers
        Currently are: Alpine 6256sx 5.25" Coaxial Speakers
          o These cannot handle my amp (Alpine 3527) nor can they handle bass.
            They currently only work well when I have them crossed over at
            80 Hz. I want something with better bass response, better imaging,
         better power handling, and better clarity. As the front locations
            can handle a 6.5" driver (that's what the factory ones were) and
            the screw holes are 120 degrees apart) I figure these requirements
            put me in the market for a 6.5" Component Separates. BTW, mounting
            depth is limited to 57mm (but that can be solved by using a
            supplied or fabricated mounting spacer.
        Considering:
          o Boston Acoustics 6.2-These are supposedly rated very well, but at 
            $429.00 a pair from Audio King (local store), they are way out of 
            budget.
          o Polk MM3065 - I love my MM6520s in the rear deck, and would like
            to put Polks in the front. The mid-woofer is rated down to 35 Hz, 
            and I have seen many reviews rating these as the best separates 
          and the best tweeter on the market (MM3000). Some problems: A
            mouting depth of 67mm (does Polk manufacture a spacer?), and my NO
            retailer in the Minneapolis/St. Paul area deals with Polk anymore.
            I figure I might find these for $225.00 a pair.
          o Alpine 6066EX - I have no idea how these sound, but they are
            
            "rated" to 50 Hz and have an installation depth of 52mm. I can get
            these for about $250 (perhaps less).
  Any comments or recommendations on these would be appreciated. Or if you
have other driver recommendations, give me them as well. Please respond
E-Mail, I will summarize if requested.

Thanks in adavance,

Grant Erickson

UUCP: crash!orbit!pnet51!granteri
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: jpau@oracle.com 
Subject: Alarm for 92 BMW 325i 
Organization: Oracle Corp., Redwood Shores CA
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 19:00:25 GMT
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by an unauthenticated user
              at Oracle Corporation.  The opinions expressed are those
              of the user and not necessarily those of Oracle.

I am installing an alarm system to my '92 BMW 325i which has the ignition kill feature.
Does anyone know which is the ignition wire to cut?  The color and the location of the
wire?  Has anyone also added a subwoofer to the factory 10 speakers system to improve
the bass?  I am very interested in your choices.

Thanks in advance, please reply by e-mail
-Jeff
From: chopper@gumbytsg.tandem.com (Michael Chop)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: best bass from rear speakers
Date: 29 Jul 92 00:31:13 GMT
Organization: Tandem Computers, Inc.

i just bought an old bmw, and am getting ready to install some pioneer three way speakers in the back.  when i went to the sales people, i was informed that to get the best bass out of the speakers, i should have the bottoms cut out of the speaker wells to increase the air volume to the back of the speakers.  

does this sound true?  or am i just getting taken for a few extra bucks of unnecessary work?

michael...
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: Siddharth.Soni@bbs.oit.unc.edu (Siddharth Soni)
Subject: car stereo WANTED!!
Organization: Extended Bulletin Board Service
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 15:11:40 GMT

if anyone has a car stereo to sell, contact me via email at:

ssoni@csnext.colgate.edu

Leave your phone number so i can call you!!

--
   The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the University of
     North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Campus Office for Information
        Technology, or the Experimental Bulletin Board Service.
           internet:  bbs.oit.unc.edu or 152.2.22.80
From: desmondw@merrimack.edu
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: System Upgrade Recommendations
Date: 28 Jul 92 18:44:40 GMT
Organization: Merrimack College, No. Andover, MA, USA

In article <8136@orbit.cts.com>, granteri@pnet51.orb.mn.org (Grant Erickson) writes:
> I have several system upgrade questions which I'd like to throw at the net for
> those who have experience with any of these products.
> 
> 1) Front Door Speakers
>         Considering:
>           o Boston Acoustics 6.2-These are supposedly rated very well, but at 
>             $429.00 a pair from Audio King (local store), they are way out of 
>             budget.
            
            Wow what a rip off! These are good speakers and I'd say go with
            these, but $429? Tell the dealer you want them installed in
            your car, not put through college. Listen everyone, Dealers
            will go lower on their prices if you bargain with them. I've
            always done it and I've always got them way down. They set
            those high prices for fools to take seriously and buy. Go
            in there and offer $350 for these(in cash if possible). If
            they say no, big deal, you tried. $429 was out of your price
            range anyway as you stated. A while back I had BA 841's 
            put up front in my car. The price said $250. I told the
            guy  I'd give him $189 for them and after he heed and hawed
             he accepted and said "you drive a hard bargain". I saved
             over $60 bucks! The bottom line is if you can't get the
           dealer down a bit on these tell him to stick them.

   o Polk MM3065 - I love my MM6520s in the rear deck, and would like
>             to put Polks in the front. The mid-woofer is rated down to 35 Hz, 
>             and I have seen many reviews rating these as the best separates 
>           and the best tweeter on the market (MM3000). Some problems: A
>             mouting depth of 67mm (does Polk manufacture a spacer?), and my NO
>             retailer in the Minneapolis/St. Paul area deals with Polk anymore.
>             I figure I might find these for $225.00 a pair.

       These are also good and for that price I'd get them if they could
       somehow fit them *correctly*
 
 Any comments or recommendations on these would be appreciated. Or if you
> have other driver recommendations, give me them as well. Please respond
> E-Mail, I will summarize if requested.
> 
> Thanks in adavance,
> 
> Grant Erickson
> 
> UUCP: crash!orbit!pnet51!granteri
From: marshall@sweetpea.jsc.nasa.gov (Jay Marshall)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Mail Order Sources ? (FAQ?)
Date: 28 Jul 1992 17:55:13 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: McDonnell Douglas Space Systems Company

Sorry if this is a FAQ (I don't get to spend as much time in the
newsgroups as I would like anymore...)

Can someone give me recommendations and/or warnings about some sources for
car audio via mail-order?  Someone mentioned American Audio, but did not 
give a number for them.

email or posting is fine,

thanks

-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jay Marshall                       
marshall@sweetpea.jsc.nasa.gov    
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
(standard disclaimer)
From: sorrell@triton.unm.edu
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Discuss CD changers skipping...
Date: 21 Jul 92 15:12:49 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of New Mexico, Albuquerque

I have a Sony 330 CD changer with Sony recvr in a motor home.  
Mounted perfectly horizontally, hung from under cabinet, recvr 
works and sounds great.  However... 

Even while very still, parked, no one moving, the unit skips 
samples about every 20 to 30 seconds, irregularly.  Worse on 
some CD's, independent of volume level, therefore not feedback, 
very annoying since usual listening is done with no road noise. 
Same CD on another player, standard stereo system, no problem. 
Dust has been carefully removed, antistatic treated, system 
carefully vacuum cleaned.  

Could anyone please comment, and offer advice about repair or 
replacement, or adjustment, still in warranty.  
 
Stan   i.e. Stan Orrell    sorrell@triton.unm.edu  
Artificial intelligence appears to be our only hope.
From: zax@kenpo.Corp.Sun.COM (Sonny Dionida)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Alpine Amps - Need Advice
Date: 23 Jul 1992 18:13:08 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems
Distribution: world
Reply-To: zax@kenpo.Corp.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: kenpo.corp.sun.com

Any good or bad advice about Alpine amps?  I'm considering of purchasing
and installing the 2X60 watts amp in my cherokee.  Price quotation?


thanks in advance!

---sonny
From: cjm9321@hertz.njit.edu (The InfoMan)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Building speaker box in door
Date: 26 Jul 92 03:42:38 GMT
Article-I.D.: njitgw.1992Jul26.034238.9677
Distribution: rec.audio.car
Organization: New Jersey Institute of Technology, Newark, N.J.

In article <3221@master.CNA.TEK.COM> frankb@chip.tek.com (Frank Bordon  436) writes:
>
>I have some 6.5" Alpine wid-woofers (6062?) in my doors. They sound OK
>but I've been told that they would sound much better if they had some
>type of sealed enclosure. They are in a Dodge D-50 and I have no
>idea how to get an enclosure inside these doors. Sealing the doors
>themselves may work also but would be very difficult. They have drainage
>holes in the bottom of the door expecting water to enter around the
>window.
>
>If anyone has done something like this and has some suggestions please
>mail me. The enclosures do not need to be very large (~.25 cubic feet) but
>can not go very deep into the door (~3"). The enclosure may be fairly wide
>though but I don't know what to make the enclosure out of or how to get
>it in the door.
>
>Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
>Thanks,
>frankb

  Crutchfield sells Acoustic Baffles which cover the back side of the
speaker.

	For 6.5" they are going for $8/pr and the
	slime lines (speaker depth of 2" or less) is $8/pr

	Oh, the Number for Crutchfield is 1-800-955-3000

				Chris

-- 
|====================================|
|Christopher   cjm9321@hertz.njit.edu|
|	"I'll Font you up."	     |
|====================================|
From: lantham@utagraph.uta.edu (MaX hEaDrOoM)
Subject: Woofers by Teledyne in U.K.  Advice?
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 18:27:48 GMT
Organization: University of Texas at Arlington
X-Bytes: 655

The other day I was in a Sears store, and they
had a pair of 6 inch woofers for sale which were
designed and manufactured by some company
called Teledyne located in the U.K.  I've heard
of a company called Teledyne here in the U.S., but
don't know if it is the same company.

Anyway, the store was selling them for $49.00 a
pair, and they were originally marked at $199.00 a pair.
(This was at a Sears outlet store)

Does anyone know anything about the company or
the quality of their products?   Any advice?
They were rated at 90 watts nominal.

Russ Latham  (lantham@utagraph.uta.edu)
                       or
(rlatham@mailbox.fwrdc.rtsg.mot.com)
From: jsalmi@lookout.it.uswc.uswest.com (John Salmi)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Advice to Beginners
Date: 30 Jul 92 20:37:18 GMT
Organization: US West Information Technologies

In article <25070@dog.ee.lbl.gov> etjue@lbl.gov (Eric T. Jue) writes:
>
>I suggest you look at Stillwater Designs(Kicker) components.  They have
>great sound, especially for the price.  As for the passive crossovers,
>you should definitely have a crossover network.  You can assemble this
>yourself with capacitors and inductors bought from a local electronics
>store.  This will save you a lot of $$.  Good luck.

if you are indeed going to build your own passive xover, you may need to 
chat with someone knowledgable in xover design, esp. for the drivers you
choose to go with.

the passive xover may be doing more than just splitting a signal.  it may
be coloring the sound.  it may be making up for a deficiency in one or both
of the drivers.

just my $0.02 worth,

-- 
Juan Salmez		<jsalmi@uswest.com>		(303) 595-2863

"I've got a news flash for you, joy-boy...  Party Time's Over!!"
From: cjm9321@hertz.njit.edu (The InfoMan)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: 16 ohm subs?
Date: 29 Jul 92 20:29:16 GMT
Organization: New Jersey Institute of Technology, Newark, N.J.

In article <1992Jul28.182324.122@ccu.umanitoba.ca> umburde1@ccu.umanitoba.ca (Burdeny) writes:
>
>I have a phoenix gold 75 per side at 4 ohm amp with a set of components 
>in the front (4 ohm) and a set of full range on the rear deck. I have the 
>chance to get a pair of 12" 16 ohm subs that I can mount in a cabinet for
>real cheap. Will this burn out my amp or is it even possible? None of this
>is even mounted in my car as of yet but I am anxoius to get my system rolling
>cuz it is replacing my stolen system. Any one done this or know how to do it.
>I expect to be purchacing alot of connectors and wiring so let me know
>? any advise would be much appreciated. thanks from the great white north.
>Mike.

	16 ohm??? 

	Are the subs 16 ohm each or are they 8 ohm each?

	You will definitly not burn out your amp. I'm not too sure how
it will sound though.

	You might want to try bridgeing your subs. Just to see if it
will sound better.

		Aw well, I'll let the guys who really know about this
stuff tell you.

					Later,

-- 
|====================================|
|Christopher   cjm9321@hertz.njit.edu|
|	"I'll Font you up."	     |
|====================================|
From: jch@teak.Cray.COM (J.C. Hamlin)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: PPI ProMos 12 amplifier  How can it do that?
Date: 28 Jul 92 21:44:16 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.

In article <55119@mentor.cc.purdue.edu>, tpremo@mentor.cc.purdue.edu (Todd Premo) writes:
> I recently looked into using the ProMos 12 amp to run my entire system.
> The salesman that I was talking to suggested that I drive it to 1 ohm 
> and I asked if that wouldn't greatly lessen the dampening factor of the
> amp.  He replied: PPI has found a way around that.  The amp never sees
> less than an eight ohm load.  This is believable- many companies do this.
> My question is how they get the increase in power output if the amp still 
> sees an eight ohm load?
> 	He said that I could drive two 4ohm seperates and a pair of subs 
> wired in parrallel in mixed mono and get 50 watts to the seperates and 
> 96 watts to the subs.

Not out of the Pro Mos 12 you won't.  The Pro Mos 12 is a 2x12 1 ohm stable 
amp.  With the Pro Mos 12 you can get 12 watts to each pair of seperates,
wired in stereo, just as you would expect.  Now, put a passive high pass 
filter on the seperates and a passive low pass filter on the subwoofers 
to make sure the frequency ranges don't over lap, and the wire the two 
subs to the amp bridged parallel.  That will give you 2x12 x 2, or 48 
watts of power to each sub, for a total of 96 watts, as quoted.  You can 
wire as many drivers to an amp as you want as long as you make sure that 
in any frequency range the impedance doesn't drop below the amplifiers lowest 
rated impedance.

Impedance vs. frequency of a stereo pair with high pass filters, and a 
bridged parallel pair with low pass filters.

 4  +                  --------------------------
 3  |                /
 2  |              /
 1  |-------------
    +-------------------------------------------+
             sub/sat crossover point

You can see here, that if you didn't have the high pass filters on the 
seperates, they would intrude into the subwoofer region and the impedance 
would then drop to 0.5 ohms and the amp would "eat itself" (yes, technical 
terms).

> 	Is this amp for real?

Yes.

> 	Does anybody know where you can get this amp for a good price?

Buy from a reputable shop, and have them install it.  If you're going to mess 
around with fancy wiring and crossover building, better make sure someone 
that can put a lifetime warranty on it does it.

J.C. Hamlin
jch@Cray.COM
From: gt0851b@prism.gatech.EDU (David Hoff)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Bazooka vs. sub+separate enclosure
Date: 24 Jul 92 03:27:21 GMT
Organization: Georgia Institue of Technology

In article <BruzEz.2K9@news.cso.uiuc.edu> ajsg9507@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Abhijeet J. Singh) writes:
>I want to add some very clean, flat, accurate bass to my system.  The people
>at my ususal stereo store scoff at all bazooka-type subs.  The system recomm-
>ended to me follows:
>
>Dual Boston Acoustic ProSeries 8.0LF drivers, each installed in a separate,
>custom-built enclosures.  Two bridged Nakamichi PA-202's, and perhaps an
>active cross-over.  Needless to say, I'm pretty sure this will sound quite
>good, but would cost more than $1200.00.  That's WAY too much for me right
>now.  My question:  Are there any high-end bazooka's (or other sub systems)

>that can deliver a descent amount of very clean, flat bass for <$500.
>
>Thanks,
>
>A.J. Singh
>ajsg9507@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu

Don't spend that much money--- It's not worth it.  If your are on a budget 
and want great sound find someone that sells JL Audio subs.  (Not JBL)
Get a 10W1.  If you look around I'm sure that you can find one for ~$80.

Get a PPI2050 amp which will run about $200-225, again if you look around.

If you have any wood working skills, build a fifth-oder enclosure for the
sub.  This is sealed on the back side of the driver and fires into a ported
camber on the front side.  Talk to the dealer he'll be more than happy to
tell you how big the enclosure needs to be  (I think its .9 ft^3 on the back
sealed side and .5 ft^3 on the ported side with about a 7.75" long 4" dia
port.  Now comes the neat part- the 5th order box crosses over the 10" 
sub and you can run it bridged of the PPI (precision power) which will
give it about 100 watts of totally clean power.  The left and right out
puts of need caps. on them to prevent bass from going to your full range
or front speakers.  They will be getting 50 watts each. Quarts sound
the best if you don't have any yet.  

I just put the above system in a friends car and entered it in a competition
here in Atlanta, and it came in fourth.  This setup hits 130 db on the
SPL meter, which is very, very loud.  It will sound much better and cost
much less.


-- 
|  Error reading file REALITY.SYS (A)bort (P)anic (R)eboot universe ?    |
|  Georgia Institute of Technology Atlanta Georgia, 30332                |
|              Internet: gt0851b@prism.gatech.edu                        |
|  uucp: ...!{decvax,hplabs,ncar,purdue,rutgers}!gatech!prism!gt0851b!   |
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: robb@ais.org (Robert Gonyer)
Subject: Pioneer KEH-7100TQR For Sale
Organization: UMCC
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 1992 04:56:42 GMT


For Sale:

                         Pioneer KEH-7100TQR Head Unit

*VERY* recently refurbished

Features:
    Stereo Wide
     Preset Scan
      Dual Illumination
       Auto Reverse
        High Power (25x2)
       18 FM and 6 AM presets
      Pull out Chassis
     Super Bass
    Line Level Out 
   CD Compatible

Very durable unit, suitable for truck or off road use.  I had it in
my Mustang though.

I had a remote lead problem, and it has been repaired.  While repairing
it, the tape mechanisim was cleaned, along with belt replacement.
Make offer
-Robb
-- 
/~~~~~~///~|~~~~~~~~~* 5.0 Ford Mustang II *~~~~~~~|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~\
\  \\\///  |  Stillwater Design-Pioneer-Infinity   |                         /
/   \XX/   |   Aiwa-Cerwin Vega!-Sherwood-Technics | robb@141.211.206.16    /
\__Amiga!__|_______________________________________|_______________________/ 
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: ldh1@decoy.uucp (25439-hatley)
Subject: Re: Alarm for 92 BMW 325i 
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 92 14:20:26 GMT