From: brodesky@td2cad.intel.com (Michael Brodesky)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: All you wanted to know about Jtree but forgot to ASk
Date: 29 Dec 92 17:58:23 GMT
Organization: intel corporation


 Last fall I posted a question asking about routes to 10d at Jtree. With
all the recent requests I decided to post the list. The following people
contributed to the list, Ron Olsen, Dave Noir, Steve Waltman, Ray
somewhere in Colorado, and Me. 

Food place not to be missed Edchadas Mexican in 29 palms. There ia also a movie
house and showers in town. At last call showers were $3+-.50 at the
local gym. 

	The rock climbing shop in 29 Palms has good prices and is worth a
visit.  White gas can be purchases at Kmart. 

If you can find  Solobsy face try Bebop tango (11b) and the 11c to the
left of it. This face was a nice place to climb on a windy day. As was
Loose lady 5.10b. To get to Solobsy face you must go through a cave to
the left of Tumbling Rainbow.  From the top of Loose Lady  you will be
able to see it.
 Also check out theBig Horn Matting Grotto - something like this. 

Make sure you prepare for all weather conditions. You might want to even
bring X-country skies. Ya never know. 
    If you bring a dog,(btw anyone looking for a 2 year old mix lab?) do not
get caught with out a 6 foot leash. And don't get caught more than the 
regulated distance from the trail head. I think the going rate is $50
for either ticket. 

      Wonderland is great. But it can get real windy in there.
 And if you are a true sport climber don'T bother going to Figures on a
 Landscape, its a walk. And I don't want to have to wait to do it. 

J-Tree  
Echo Rock area has several nice face climbs in the 5.9-5.11 range

   "Heart & Soul"      5.10a  (Echo rock area... a really cool climb)
                                    requires some natural pro

Real Hidden Valley
	
S  ail Away"         5.8    (One of the nicest 5.8 cracks you'll ever find!)

Indian Cove
  "Sweat Band"        5.10c  (Nice Long face climb)
 Routes on King Ottos castle in the 10 bc range. There is a route called
the bridge 11a-c? runout and scary not worth doing.
   Left V crack 11c          Pin scars and thin cracK
   Right V crack 10b         Mostly top roped or soloed
   Face to right of above    11C

Bird of Fire (10a) - 100ft of beautiful jam crack with an overhanging crux
at the top.  It starts from a ledge 200 ft up (steep walkup)--really pretty.
The Orphan 5.8 or 5.9
The Exorcist is a 10a jam crack - one of those straight up cracks in the middle of an otherwise blank
face.  (Like Bird of Fire but not as long/hard).
	Black Tide		.7 (might be called Stichter Quits in new guide)
	Heart and Sole		.10a
	Illusion Dweller	.10a
	Run for Your Life	.10b
	Solid Gold		.10a
	Figures on a Landscape	.10b Belay from point after crux. There
                                     are three bolts and a ledge to
                                     stand on. If you stop at the
                                     hanging belay you still have the
                                     crux to do and a bad belay point. 
	Loose Lady		.10b great route must dO
        ??????? to the right of loose lady 11? also gooD
	Run For Your Life 5.10b **** (bolt-protected face; runout at crux?)
	Papa Woolsey 5.10b *** (right at the campground)
	Sidewinder 5.9+ R **** (scary traverse at top)
	Pinched Rib 5.10b *** (a little runout)
	Heart and Sole 5.10a *** (bolted face)
	Solid Gold 5.10a R **** (intense; do 5.9+ 1st pitch and rap)
	Figures on a Landscape 5.10b R ***** (runout at crux on 2nd pitch)
	Caught Inside on the Big Set 5.10b **** (supposed to be great)
	Poodles are People Too 5.10b *** (thin crack and face)
Trashcan Rock
	Walkway 5.3			Fun solo
	Tiptoe 5.8 **			Neat dike/face; 4 bolts.
					Bring small Friends, TCUs for belay anchor.

Hemmingway Buttress
	White Lightning 5.7 ***		Nice hands; do Poodles Are People Too
					thin-crack finish (5.8 - great).
					Can rap with two ropes from top of PAPT
					or squeeze down tight tunnels to right.
					Bring extra #2 through #4 Friends; need TCUs
					for PAPT finish.
IRS Wall
	Tax Man 5.10a ****		Great steep fingers/hands; rap from tree
					Bring extra TCUs.  Worth the hike.

Hidden Tower
	Sail Away 5.8 ****		Good steep fingers/face; rap off.
					Extra TCUs handy.
	Wild Wind 5.9 **		Face/hands; go to top and rap

The Sentinel
	Illusion Dweller 5.10a *****	Great sustained fingers/hands/crux bulge.
					Can rap (2 ropes) or do short pitch to descent.
					Bring extra TCUs and Friends through #3.

Tumbling Rainbow Rock
	Fisticuffs 5.10b ***		Short strenuous fist

Sports Challenge Rock
	Sphincter Quits 5.9 R ***	Scary thin crack/face; awkward RP pro at crux

Houser Buttress
	Loose Lady 5.10a ****		Great face; new bolts; good pro
					Bring #3.5 and #4 Friends for belay.

Old Woman
	Dogleg 5.8+ ***			Fun hands; extra #2 through #4 Friends useful.
	Double Cross 5.7+ ****		More fun hands; rap off
	Toe Jam 5.7 **			Toe cruncher; can do 2nd pitch to top or rap
	Geronimo 5.7 **			Wild roof! Bring 1 #3, 2 #3.5, and 2 #4 Friends.

Chimney Rock
	The Flue 5.8 R ***		Scary face, fun hands

Intersection Rock
	The Flake 5.8 **		Grunt chimney, fun flake & bolted face.
					Go to top and do 2 raps; 2nd rap by Waterchute
	Mike's Books 5.6 **		Fun corners; do direct start (5.8).
	Overhang Bypass 5.7 ***		Airy crux on 1st pitch protects with #0 TCU.
					Second pitch is commiting hand traverse.

The Blob
	The Bong 5.5 **			Fun hand crack and overhang; rap after 1 pitch.
					Approach via Hobbit Roof area.

Cyclops Rock
	The Eye 5.3 R ***		Steep fun climb.  Walk off back side.

The Wall
	Chalk Up Another One 5.9+ ***   Sustained thin face; bolts
					Bring small pro (Tricams?)
					for flared groove at top.
	Hands Off 5.8 ***		Good corner with hand crack

Rollerball Formation
	Rollerball 5.10a *** 		Barn door layback & hand crack through roof
					Two hard moves; the rest is easy.
					Bring #3.5 Friend for roof.

Echo Rock
	Double Dip 5.6+ **		Fun flake and face; bolts; descend to left
	Stichter Quits 5.8 ***		Awkward layback to face; bolts; rap on right
					Bring 4 QDS and sling for belay.
	Stick to What 5.9+/10a ***	Thin friction; bolts; rap on right.
					Belay at rap anchor or bring TCUs for belay.
	Pope's Crack 5.9 **** 		Great corner crack to hand traverse; sustained
					Belay right after hand traverse, and rap
					from top of British Airways.
					Bring extra TCUs, #1.5 through #3 Friends.
	Bambi Meets Godzilla 5.8+ ***	Slot to fun hands; long pitch.

Touch and Go Face
	Touch and Go 5.9 ****		Fabulous sustained corner crack.
					Bring extra TCUs, #1.5 through #3 Friends.

The Gully
	The Snatch 5.10a *		Sharp hands; crux layback start

Little Hunk
	ZZZZZ 5.9 R **** 		Steep awkward face; bolts; 1st crux run out.
					One good bolt for belay or bring TCUs.

Room To Shroom Rock
	Room To Shroom 5.8 ***		Easy short hands/fist; rap from tree.
					Not worth the hike unless you also
					do Chemical Warfare (5.10b ***).

Freak Brothers Domes
	I Can't Believe It's a Girdle 5.9+ R ****
					Friction/face to wild, scary dike traverse.
					Bring wired nut for missing hanger on 1st pitch.
					Bring TCUs, small Friends for 3rd & 4th belays.
					2nd pitch run out between 2nd and 3rd bolts.
					Second should back-clip last bolt on 3rd pitch.
					4th pitch is 5.5, not 5.7.

Lenticular Dome
	Mental Physics 5.7 ****		Clean hand crack.  Do 1 pitch and rap with
					two ropes, or diagonal rap with 1 rope over to
					top of Dazed and Confused.  Second pitch is
					unprotected face.
	Dazed and Confused 5.9 R ***	Great top-rope face; scary as a lead with
					only 4 bolts in 80 feet.  Rap after 1 pitch.

Comic Book
	Comic Book Crack 5.10a ***	Fun 1st pitch; offwidth to nice crack to
					slightly runout face.
					Second pitch has very hard
					move at start and then is wide and trivial.
					Bring doubles on #1.5 through #4 Friends.
					#4 Camalot useful.
					Rap from big ledge on left side of rock.

	Alice In Wonderjam 5.9 ****	Horrendous approach;  5th-class scramble up
					talus and chimneys.  Don't bring packs or extra
					gear to base of climb! Fabulous sustained climb;
					fingers, hands, offwidth.
					Bring doubles on #1.5 through #4 Friends.
					Save #4 Friend for crux offwidth at top of
					pitch.  Tricky descent back and down left side.

Saddle Rocks
	Walk on the Wild Side 5.8 ****	1st pitch has 3 5.8 cruxes; second crux
					is runout.  2nd and 3rd pitches much easier.
					Bring 6 QD's and a long sling to clip
					fixed tech Friend under roof on 1st pitch.
					Downclimb and rappel to right.

Hall of Horrors
	Lazy Day 5.7 ***		Neat little crack.  Descend to left.
	Exorcist 5.10a ****		Great fingers to crux face with bolt.
					Bring extra TCUs.  30' rap off back side

Future Games Rock
	Continuum 5.9 ****		Good dog-leg hand crack with awkward crux
	Invisibility Lessons 5.9 ****	Fun fingers and stem

Corridor Face
	Colorado Crack 5.9 ****		Great steep fingers and hands; descend to right
	Gem 5.8 **			Nice hands; sharp rock


Intersection rock area (includes Steve Canyon, Old Woman, Hidden
			Valley Campground, etc.)
	overhang bypass, 5.7 (3)
	north overhang, 5.9 (3)
	hobbit roof, 10b (2)
	super roof, 5.9 (3)
	sidewinder, 5.9+ (4)
	watanobe wall, 10b (?more like 10a) (3)  (S)
	double cross, 5.7+ (4)
	dogleg, 5.8 (3)
	mama woolsey, 10a (2?)
	papa woolsey, 10b (3) (the woolseys can be congo lines)

Echo Rock Area
	touch and go, 5.9+ (4)
	stick to what, 5.9 (3)
	jack of hearts, 5.9 (3)
	heart and sole, 10a (4)
	EBGBs, 10c (4)
	pope's crack, 5.9 (3)
	compassion of the elephants, 10c (3)
	stichter quits, 5.7 (3)    (aka black tide)
	(if you're climbing 5.10d, you might consider swept away, 5.11a)

Real Hidden Valley
	illusion dweller, 10a (5)
	run for your life, 10b (4)
	sail away, 5.8 (4)
	loose lady, 10b, (4)    (S)

Lost Horse (also hemingway buttress area)
	bird on a wire, 10a (3)     (S)
	tax man, 10b (4)
	white lightning, 5.7 (3)

Saddle Rocks
	walk on the wild side, 5.7+ (4)
	harlequin, 10c (4)
	
Hall of Horrors
	dog day afternoon, 10b (3)
	exorcist, 10a (4)
	(lazy day, 5.7 (3) is a good warm up in that area)

Wonderland (I haven't explored here much)
	figures on a landscape, 10b (5)
	solid gold, 10b (4)
	room to shroom, 5.9 (4)
	mental physics, 5.7 (4)
	dangling wo li master, 10a (4)     
	book of changes, 10b (4)           
	caught outside on big set, 10b (5)
	gunsmoke, 5.11 (an end-of -the-day workout traverse, never more
			than 3 ft off the deck)


Enjoy, Sorry about duplicates. And remember there better not be a line
on figures on a landscape. I'll be in Jtree from April 6th or 7th until
the 10th or 11th. Look for a grey Isuzu, A black mix lab(any takers) and
someone telling great jokes. Oh yes and, I forgot the interesting
clothes and my very nice looking partner Elaine. 

And before I go, On a recent trip to Pinnacles with Elaine and the
Loobster, they both  flashed/cruised up to 10c. Elaine also got her first 
10c flash as she "Floated" to the top of a route, and her first roof 
lead on the flatiron.  Me I got my first 25 footer as I floated though
the air watching the ground get ever closer. And my belay partner get
ever higher off the ground. 
--
Michael Brodesky Internet Mbrodesky@sc9.Intel.com
UUCP : {pur-ee,qanad,oliveb,decwrl,hplabs}!intelca!mipos3!td2cad!brodesky
During the week I climb left to right. On weekends I climb up and down.
Rootbeer^2 = Beer ?             Were all in it together.