HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: dchill@sequent.com (Duncan Hill)
Subject: 13" Hakk Snows FOR SALE
Keywords: FOR SALE- SNOWS
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems (Canada) Ltd.
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 15:33:59 GMT

***************************************************
**						 ** 
**           FOR SALE				 **
**						 **
**     SET OF 4 Hakkapillitta (sp?) Snow Tires	 **
**     mounted on Steel Rims. Lots of tread.	 **
**     My 16v GTI was like a tractor with these	 **
**     on it.					 **
**						 **
**     Duncan Hill,  Toronto, Canada		 **
**     1-416-629-4000  				 **
**     or  dchill@gateway.sequent.com		 **
**						 **
***************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: neves@anchor.cs.colorado.edu (NEVES RICHARD K)
Subject: Re: Problem: Idle blip in 1989 Golf
Keywords: Idle clutch stop
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1992 02:58:15 GMT

In article <1992Nov20.165747.11269@awdprime.austin.ibm.com> pluth@ausvmv.vnet.ibm.com writes:
>> Read my second to last post.  This is exactly what was happening to
>> our Passat.  They replaced the throttle switch and that fixed it.
>> Maybe someone who knows something about engines could explain this.  
>> 
>> I do know that the engine idle speed somehow determined by a computer.
>> The decision is based on inputs from devices like the throttle switch.
>> Our switch was broken.  They replaced it, now it works.
>
>Reading from the shop manual, there are two switches - one to tell the
>computer that the throttle is at full (or close to it) and one to tell
>the computer it's at idle (no pressure on the pedal).  If what I'm
>hearing from you is correct, the second switch (called the idle switch
>in the manual) was broken.  Is this correct?
>
>I'm having the same problem on my '89 Jetta, and plan to check it out
>this weekend.  Hopfully it's just the switch.  Do you remember how
>much it cost (the part, not labor)?
>
>Thanks,
>Ron

I went through my records:

I thought that "idle switch and throttle switch" were two different
things, but they are the same thing! I bought the bently service
manual yesterday (90-92 passat), so I am enlightened:

"The throttle switch for manual transmission cars provides the
Motronic control unit with a closed-throttle (idle) signal.  This
signal is used for fuel shut-off and ignition timing adjustments
during deceleration, and for idle speed control."

Replacing throttle switch: 54 labor and 60 for the part.

You should also know that I got two private messages from others in
this news group saying they had the same problem with their passats
around 24,000 miles.  In both cases, the computer reported NO faults
(and it should have) and their care was idling similarly to yours.

the bently manual lists other reasons for high idle:

- throttle valve mechanism binding or misadjusted
- basic adjustments incorrect (ignition timing and/or fuel mixture)
- unmeasured intake air (vacuum leak(s))
- evaporative emission control system faulty
- throttle switch or throttle potentiometer faulty (idle switch)
- misc. montronic system faults
- accelerator pedal, cable, or throttle valve binding
- air leaking past throttle valve

good luck,
Rich
From: nicos@cs.bu.edu (Nicos Kontopoulos)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: timing belts
Date: 18 Nov 92 07:18:39 GMT
Organization: Computer Science Department, Boston University, Boston, MA, USA
Originator: none
Originator: nicos@csa


  I'd just like to add my 2 cents in the timing belt discussion:

- A friend of mine lost his timing belt at 27K miles on a 16V Porsche.
- Someone on the net replaced his timing belt in time at 135K miles on a 8V VW.

  It depends on what kind of person you are, and on what kind of money you
want (and/or have) to spend on the car. People change oil at 2K miles
when the manufacturer recommends 7K mile intervals. They say it is good (and
cheap) insurance. I agree with them and do the same thing.
  It is also cheap insurance to check and replace the timing belt as often as
possible - check every 7.5K; replace every 30K or less for multi-valve engines.
(It is not as cheap as changing oil, but it should NEVER cost more than $150
AT MOST). If you believe my mileage limits are very small, they probably
are. But I use the same car in competition and as a daily driver and it
is almost 12 years old.
  All multi-valve engines have shorter recommendations for timing belt
replacement than 2-valve engines. It also depends on the way one drives.
It also depends on pure luck. So it is up to you to choose which way you'll
go. But, please do not think that your mechanic is trying to cheat by 
suggesting a timing belt check, even if you only have 30K miles on the car.


  BTW - I am not a mechanic nor do I intend to become one. I did have to pay
for my last timing belt change - the second one after "only" 90K miles.


-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
   Nicos Kontopoulos                             Voice: (617) 787-1780
   INTERnet: nicos@cs.bu.edu                           '81 931
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Restricted top speed (Re: 93 Jetta GLX 6 cylinder-)
Date: 21 Nov 1992 06:11:21 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, nicos@csa.bu.edu (Nicos Kontopoulos) says:

>aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer) wrote:
>>ok...assuming these are true.(i do not)..but for the sake of my
>>question..how come VW willnot make a car run over 140??..is it 
>>electrically limited??..and why the hell do they do that anyhow!?!
>>just wondering..the SLC published top speeds i've seen are 140..
>>the G60's was too..now..am i wrong in that the VR6 has an extra..oh..
>>bunch of horses??..why does nothing go faster than this?(don't feed
>>me any shit about not being able to do it on US roads anyway.i want
>>to know WHY!!)
>>DREW
>
>  I know for a fact that Mercedes and BMW (except M and 8 series) are
>restricting the top speed of their vehicles to 250 Km/h (155 mph). There
>is no law requiring this, it is just one more of the "active safety"
>features offered by these German manufacturers.
>
>  I am not aware that VW is following a similar policy, but it is
>possible.
>
but why? most people going that fast would have a damn good reason..like..
someone in a faster car chasing them for their life, or taking someone to
the hospital...(or did i just answer my own question? ;-)
DREW
-- 
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
?????????????????????????????????-----whatever!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: dp54@mc4adm.UWaterloo.ca (Rob Silcher)
Subject: Re: Changing Front Wheel Bearing
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 16:30:59 GMT

In article <1992Nov15.043432.15681@bert.eecs.uic.edu> rorem@bert.eecs.uic.edu (Doug Rorem) writes:
>dp54@mc4adm.UWaterloo.ca (Rob Silcher) writes:
>........
>>was removed I was able to remove my first bearing from the wheel housing in
>>less than 1 hr. The second time only took about 15 min. Installing the bearings
>>was even simpler. The basics of the job are: hammer out the wheel hub, smash
>>out the inner race from the wheel housing, remove 2 circlips, smash out outer
>>race from wheel housing, remove inner race still stuck to wheel hub (puller
>>used here), install bearing into wheel housing, install circlips, hammer hub
>>onto wheel housing.
>
>Just a word of advice, when putting the hub back in a new bearing you
>have to be careful that you support the inner race of the bearing.  If
>not (e.g. pressing/(pounding?) the hub in against the housing or outer
>race), you put all that strain on the bearing itself and it tends
>to fail earlier than it should. By the same token, you should make
>sure that when pressing the bearing into the wheel housing that you
>press against the outer race only (for the same reasons).
>
>Doug Rorem
>UIC   rorem@bert.eecs.uic.edu

I would imagine that if you didn't press or pound against the inner race you
would probably destroy the bearing right away. The same would apply if you
attempted to press/pound the inner race instead of the outer race when 
inserting the wheel bearing into the wheel housing. Of course I could be 
wrong since I didn't want to try it!

Rob Silcher 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: tvtjet@eua.ericsson.se (Jorgen Eriksson)
Subject: Re: I now own a VW. How do I drive it?????
Organization: Ellemtel Telecom Systems Labs, Stockholm, Sweden
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 09:56:01 GMT

bikdoc@bu.edu (Sanford Whitehouse) writes:


>	I am now the proud owner of a three week old Jetta GL

>	Question 1:
>           How high do I go on the RPM's.  For the most part
>I'm an aggressive responsible driver.  Do high RPM's wear VW's
>out?  

In the long run, of course.  High RPM's 
always result i higher wear. But short 
encounters with 5000-6000, really doesn't 
matter.

>        Question 2:
>	   How do I drive the corners.  Now that the back end
>always stays put.  It seems like the front end will slide 
>instead.  How am I doing.  What about gas through the corner?
>And if the car can not spin out rear first what does it do 

If the rear comes out, applay more
gas, to pull the right again.

Try this (on a safe place without 
surrounding traffic)
(I'm also refering to a car with 
manual gearbox)
If you push it hard, in curves and around
corners, you will notice that the car
will understeer heavily.
These tendencies can be controlled with
a technique called left-foot braking.
It's used in rally, both on rear and 
front wheel drive and on 4wd as well.
It's very hard to explain exactly how
to do it, you just have to learn it yourself.

But i'll give it a try. 
When approaching a curve, e.g. a righthand 
dito, keep the car as far as possible to the 
left. Select a lower gear, e.g the second. 
Place your left foot on the brake pedal, keep 
the throttle down. "Throw" the car in to the 
curve, be firm, apply some preassure on the 
brakes. Now you have to give more gas, it's 
all a matter of balancing between gas and brakes.
The understeer dissapears, and you'll have 
wonderful control of the car.

What you are actually doing is to bring
the rear end of the car slightly out of
traction/balance. This will in turn result
in better front-end traction = no understeering.

If you're braking to much under this procedure
you can bring out the rear in a "rear wheel drive"
manner. It's great fun !

	Hope this will enable you
	to have more fun (and safer)
	driving with your new Jetta.

	Cheers,
		Jorgen
PS I'm a left foot "braker" myself
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu (REAL LIFE?!?!  HA!!)
Subject: Re: Restricted top speed (Re: 93 Jetta GLX 6 cylinder-)
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1992 09:17:10 GMT

nicos@csa.bu.edu (Nicos Kontopoulos) writes:

>  I know for a fact that Mercedes and BMW (except M and 8 series) are
>restricting the top speed of their vehicles to 250 Km/h (155 mph). There
>is no law requiring this, it is just one more of the "active safety"
>features offered by these German manufacturers.

Hate to say it, but that's not a safety feature at all.  The 250kph limit is in
response to a German tax law.  I'm not sure as to the rate, but the sales tax
on a new car is raised significantly if the car's top speed is over 250kph.
Are you sure the 8-series doesn't have a governor?  I thought it did....


Michael T. Chaffee        |******BOYCOTT COLORADO******|  ______    
mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu | Professional Slapthologist |  \    /     HATE
Member, Universal Life Church, Sect of Loons           |   \  /  can never be
Annoyance Theatre Platinum Member |     Evil Genius    |    \/  a FAMILY VALUE
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: eliot@lanmola.engr.washington.edu (eliot)
Subject: Re: Wanted: Corrado Snow Tires
Organization: clearer than blir
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 18:17:57 GMT


good luck finding inexpensive snows for the corrado!!  the cheapest i
have come across are continental TS740s, going for $80 or so at the
mail order places.  i think that only 185/55-15 will fit the corrado.
i ended up with pirelli winter 210s for about 10 bucks more and a set
of steel wheels for $50 each.  be sure to also check the max.
allowable pressure if you intend to mount them on the factory alloys.
some tires have a stated maximum of 36 psi.  (i suppose you can ignore
it) the dealer told me that you should never have less than 40 psi in
the front if you don't want to bend them.


eliot
Organization: Freshman, CIT general, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 18:38:17 -0500 
From: Jason Paul Togyer <jt3y+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Jetta experiences (Was:Re: info on jetta)
	<BxvJny.8s8@news.ucs.mun.ca>

Well, I don't know a whit about lifters or Chilton manuals, but I do
know that our '89 Jetta has been one problem after another.  I will
admit that it has been marginally better than the '80 Plymouth that was
traded in on it, but... 8)

The car has 40K on the clock.  To date, the paint has peeled off the
hood, the left headlight has fallen out of it's bracket, the
seat-belt/starter interlock has gone bad (making it a little difficult
to start the car at times), the back door refuses  to open, the back
door panel (inside) fell off, the door lock pull-up broke, the starter
fell out (yes, fell out), the computer needed replaced, the CV joint
dust seals went bad...and I could go on, but you get the idea.  It has
come home at least 3 times on the back of the garageman's wrecker. 
Thank God for the AAA.

This is not a car that has been driven hard.  Oil changes at 3K,
Tune-ups twice a year, garage kept, regularly washed, all maintenance
intervals kept.  I might mention that the dealer that the car was
purchased from has proven inept, and all service has been done by a
local garage.  I might also mention that the only thing VWoA has been
willing to pay for thus far has been the paint on the hood and the
computer; their regional field service rep has told us to go pound salt
otherwise.  The so-called "extended warranty" is a cruel joke good only
for starting fires.  The BBB refuses to do anything because the car has
over 36K.  Anyone for a class action suit?  8-(

Pluses:  The car is roomy, handles like a slot-car, gets great mileage,
drives nicely (shifts well, plenty of power), and has a large trunk.  

Bottom line:  Will I ever buy another VW?  Not on your sweet life.  I'll
walk first.  Sorry to all the VW fans, but this car has been a real
disappointment.  It certainly hasn't lived up to the memories of the '70
Bug that was traded in on the Plymouth.  That car had some interesting
quirks, but it wasn't a lemon.

Gee, I hope I don't sound too bitter!  8-}


--Jason Togyer
     Carnegie Institute of Technology
     Pittsburgh, Penn.

**"The moral of the story is: don't count your boobies before they've hatched."
       --James Thurber
            'THE UNICORN IN THE GARDEN'
From: leini@honi.uni-paderborn.de (Dirk Leinroth)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: test
Date: 23 Nov 1992 12:11:19 +0100
Organization: Uni Paderborn FB 17 Informatik GERMANY
NNTP-Posting-Host: honi.uni-paderborn.de

test :)
-- 
 Dirk  Leinroth | Universitaet Paderborn | Fachbereich 17 Informatik             
		      	     Email: leini@uni-paderborn.de
			     Snail: Knappenweg 1 4799 Borchen Germany
			     Phone(home): +49 5251 388702
From: mizutant.fred.wharton.upenn.edu (Taka Mizutani)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Wheels & tires for sale
Date: 23 Nov 92 23:17:53 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.vw
Organization: University of Pennsylvania

I have four 6 x 14" steel rims, bought new in 1991, same style as the steel
wheels on the base Golfs/Jettas. Yokohama A633 snow tires, mounted and
balanced, size P185/60TR14, with valves and center caps. Only used for one
winter (about three months/ 3000 miles). Will fit any Golf, Jetta, Passat,
Rabbit (?), BMW 3-series, or Audi 4000.
Asking $200 or best offer for package.

Send replies to:
MIZUTANT@fred.wharton.upenn.edu 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: dchill@sequent.com (Duncan Hill)
Subject: Corrado Speedo Error
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems (Canada) Ltd.
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 19:14:18 GMT

Hi,

I recently purchased a 90 Corrado with the BBS wheel upgrade
and the 195 55 R 15 Sport Contacts.  I swear the speedometer
is reading about 15 KM ( 9 miles ) per hour too fast.  I have
paced by car with a friends GTI and this checks out.  I had
the car in for service and had it checked, they said it is fine.
The only way to be sure is to know factory specs for what
the speed should be in a specific gear at a specific number
if rpm's.  Does anyone have this info?  The dealer can't
seem to provide it. Has anyone else experienced this same
problem.  The tire size should not be an issue because the
speed is measured at the drive shaft.  However, if the 
speedometer was calibrated for 205mm tires and then the 195mm
tires were put on it could cause some discrepency. My 
calculations show that the 10mm difference in width translates
into only a 5% difference in overall wheel circumference and
therefore only a 5% difference in speed.  I am experiencing
a 15Km/h error at 100km/h. Any ideas would be welcome.
Thanks,

Duncan Hill, Toronto, Canada
dchill@gateway.sequent.com

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: squiec@jec325.its.rpi.edu (Craig L. Squier)
Subject: Re: info on jetta
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 22:56:45 GMT

In article <1e94i6INN2ms@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer) writes:
>
>In a previous article, ereddy@morgan.ucs.mun.ca (Edward Reddy  MI) says:
>
>>Well, this is an interesting question...
>> 
>>I have hydrolic lifters (but their solid). I asked the dealer about my
>>lifters (because I wanted to replace them). They told me they were
>>hydrolic lifters. So, I went to my local garage, and they said they were
>>solid.
>>Owning a 85 Jetta, I am beginning to wonder. Do I get hydrolic? (As
>>mentioned before) or Solid? They were apparently changed to hydrolic. I
>>replaced two last year, and the seem preety solid to me (no pun
>>intended). 
>>
>>Edwardo...
>>
>once again, due basically to lack of fundage for a BENTLY(ie real) manual,
>i am unsure how to chekc..the only thing i know is that the hyds supposedly
>came in 85 according to the CHILTON's IMPORT manyul...and they do not need
>adjustment...which rips me, cuz i paid for an adjustment, but do not know for 
>sure that i needed it, y'know..anyone in the know out there..help him and me
>both..cuz i've heard that the hyds came in 85, along with the new body/chassis
>style, etc...
>thanx
>DREW
>-- 
First Mistake ====== CHILTONs MANUAL ----- GARBAGE
  The Chiltons manuals are so inferior, they don't even pay attention to what
 model they GENERALIZE repairs for. They assume that any VW is like any other 
 VW. Not so. I found the Bentley's to be so far superior that I have 2 of 
 each. A greasy one for the shop, and a Pristine one for the bookshelf.
 Haynes manuals even outclass the Chilton Trashola. At least haynes puts
 real (not drawn) pictures in the book!
 I am sure however that Jettas after 84( i.e. A2) are HYDRAULIC.....
 They made this improvement for the A2 chassis and others in '85.
 Is everbody clear?
 Hope it helps..            -Craig.

>??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
>??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
>?????????????????????????????????-----whatever!
From: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: CV-joint core dump requested...
Date: 16 Nov 1992 03:48:32 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
NNTP-Posting-Host: thor.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, dobosz_m@wfooff.enet.dec.com (Mike Dobosz) says:

>
>I'll be replacing a CV joint on my '85 VW Quantum next weekend. I've never 
>done this job before, but I'm looking forward to trying it.

>So perhaps we can look at this as an opportunity to pad the CV-joint section 
>of the rec.autos.vw FAQ.  Post to your heart's content, telling of your 
>trials, tribulations and accomplishments in the area of CV joint 
>replacement.  I'm pretty sure that the maintainer of the FAQ will welcome 
>the information.  I'm _certain_ that I will.  Tools, techniques, 
>occurrences of Murphy's Law...all are welcomed.
>
>Thanks in advance...
>							Mike

the only real advice i know of is if you rebuild the one you have..i have
taken apart about 10 of them(ok..only 6, but some more than once, for whatever
reasons, not failure on any of them, mostly tranny stuff!..at any rate..onward!)
just be real careful to make sure that the join rotates(like it would to
absorb a bump!) loosely before you put it back on..cuz, if you do it just wrong,
it'll go together, but will not rotate right....i dunno what that'd do to your
drive train..but i know it would not help it(i always managed to catch that
before i put them back...but..for the less exerienced with CV joints..this is
NOT how they act when they are taken apart and put back together!!!..they 
should still feel loose, and freely rotate!)
good luck!
DREW
-- 
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
?????????????????????????????????-----whatever!
From: pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: 46mm nut---How to remove?
Date: 18 Nov 92 14:22:59 GMT
Organization: University of Louisville

In article <1992Nov17.102016.1160@yvax.byu.edu>, colemant@yvax.byu.edu writes:
> Please help me find the tool/ wrench to remove the rear axle nut from
> my 71 bus.  The size is 46mm and the only offers I have are for:
> 
> $107 crescent wrence with 2.5" max
> $30  socket and adaptor from sears
> 
> I have visions of making a tool to fit stuggly with some arm sticking out
> to hit with a hammer.  Custom making it may cost more than buying it.
> 
> How do you get to those rear breaks on your bus?  where did you get
> the tool to remove the nut?
> 
> Help please.   --Tom

I thought that '71 was the first year of composite brake drums for the bus.  My
uncle said he didn't have to remove the axle nut to do the brakes on his '71
poptop.  I know I didn't have to on my '77 bus  (Insert S.E.G. here) ;-)

Everyone else has talked about the thing to hit with a hammer.  I bought the
1 ??/16 socket because my brother bought a 3/4" breaker bar when he bought the
socket to do his bug.  I would not use a 1/2" breaker with an adapter, because
my brother broke 3 of them (2 Craftsman, one not) trying to get to his brakes. 
If you do use it, do it during a time Sears is open and have transportation. 
The way I look at it, I bought my Craftsman tools for WHEN I break them, not IF
I break them.  

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
|pH Fred == pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu    |         "What we lack         |
|        == ..!psuvax1!ulkyvx.bitnet!pgheit01 |   in enthusiasm, we make up   |
|           University of Louisville          |         for in apathy."       |
|                Louisville, KY               |                               |
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