HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: IROC smokes on start
From: amk@icf.hrb.com (Andrew M. Kissel)
Date: 27 Aug 92 16:43:56 EST
Organization: HRB Systems, Inc.

In article <1992Aug25.210108.24712@ncrcae.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM>, kent@lightnin.Columbia.NCR.COM (Kent Richardson) writes:
> Just wondering if any other Camaro owners have the same problem I do with the
> car smoking a lot at startup. The amount it smokes seems to increase relative
> to how long the car has sat without running(i.e. next day-smokes a little, 
> after a week-smokes a LOT). I was wondering what this is and if anything can
> be done to stop it. I think it may be dirty injectors?? The engine is a 
> 305 cubic in. (5.0L) with Tuned Port Injection. If it is'nt the injectors I 
> don't feel like getting a $50 injection purge. 
> 

Same problem here!!!! In fact, my neighbors IROC does the same thing as well!
Your not alone here. When I get more info, I'll post to this news group. Its
definately oil burning, but it not too bad. Yet! 
-- 
  /\          | / 
 /__\  |/\/\  |/
/    \ |  | | | \
+=====================================================================+
|  Disclaimer: The views and opinions that have been expressed are my |
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+=====================================================================+
|  - Been dazed and confused for so long                              |
|         its not true!         -   Led Zeppelin                      |
+--------------------------------+------------------------------------+
|  Andrew M. Kissel   WB3CBV     |   EMAIL:      amk@icf.hrb.com      |
|  HRB Systems Inc.              |   Phone (wk): (814)238-4311 x3317  |
|  P.O. Box 60, Dept. 333        |                                    |
|  State College, PA. 16804      |        (fax): (814)234-7720        |
+================================+====================================+
From: hgoh@oac.hsc.uth.tmc.edu (Han Lin Goh)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: CV joints
Date: 31 Aug 1992 15:38:27 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: UT Health Science Center Houston

How can you tell when CV joints are worn and need to be replaced?
My Datsun 210's front right suspension makes noise when taking bumps.
How much does it cost in general?
Are CV joints the same as ball joints?
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: basiji@milton.u.washington.edu (David Basiji)
Subject: Re: scored rotors OK?
Organization: University of Washington
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 07:37:44 GMT

hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987) writes:

>Sean Samblanet (samblane@oasys.dt.navy.mil) wrote:

>:  But after talking to other racers they said along as they
>: are not warped and don't have stress/heat cracks (radially from center)
>: dont worry about turning the rotors.  The grooves actully give you more surface
>: area(more braking power) after the pads are seated.  

>: Sean

>I don't think the 'more surface area' theory is correct.  The force exerted by
>the pad against the rotor can be expressed as a vector quantity, I believe.
>This would mean that, for instance, in a v-shaped groove in the rotor, you would
>still be getting the same force as if it were a flat surface.

>Of course, I slept through physics class, so maybe someone else has something to
>add on this topic?  Great, now you've got me wondering....

>--

>Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
>SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.
>hinz@picard.med.ge.com


Sorry Dave, it is definitely a vector quantity but it is dependent
on not just the theoretical uN force (friction force = mu * Normal force)
but also on the adhesive properties of the pad/metal interface.
The more interface you have, the more force (to a first approx.) since
adhesion is proportional to surface area.

Dave "hand wave" Basiji
-- 
David Basiji 
"C neophyte, Bioengineering Grad Student, Internet Personality"

email: basiji@u.washington.edu          
NeXTmail: basiji@larry.pathology.washington.edu

		"Whining is just anger coming out of a very small hole."
            --Stuart Smalley
From: pshyvers@pyrnova.mis.pyramid.com (Peter Shyvers)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: aftermarket cams and headers
Date: 29 Aug 92 01:02:50 GMT
Reply-To: pshyvers@pyrnova.pyramid.com (Peter Shyvers)
Organization: Pyramid Technology Corp., Mountain View, CA
Originator: daemon@sword.eng.pyramid.com

In article <15200041@hpspdla.spd.HP.COM> paulw@hpspdla.spd.HP.COM (Paul Welch) writes:
>I re-built a Chevy 283 for my '63 Nova, and used a "mild street cam", 
>headers, etc., that were intended to improve performance.  Although I
>live in California, I didn't ever have to smog this car since it was
>so old.  However, I recently sold it, and the buyers condition was that
>I have the car smog checked.  After adding an automatic choke and 
>a breather-type oil cap, I took it down to the local smog-check 
>facility.  The mechanic hooked everything up, started the test, then
>promptly turned to me and gave me a dirty look, like my car just
>ruined his smog-checker!  Actually, it just pegged the needles on his
>gages.  Of course I assumed the worst (the car will have to be buried

  Pegging the gauges usually means having to recalibrate them. Or at the
  least leaving the meter to whine quietly in a corner for 20 minutes
  to "clear its lungs". Or at least that's what we had to do with our
  old CO-NOX meters from AC.

>in some land-fill facility that accepts hazardous waste), but after
>playing around with the idle mixture and the timing, he was able to 
>get the car to pass.  Unfortunately, the performance dropped about 
>50%, but it did pass.
>
>With a newer vehicle, things might be better (such as the cat.
>converter, etc.).  I doubt that a simple change to headers would 
>affect the hydrocarbon output much, but they are one of the cheaper
>ways to buy a little horsepower.  Without a test facility it may
>be difficult to assess which modifications actually increase polutants.
>

   It probably ain't the headers; likely you've some internal fuel leaks
   that the headers helped disguise. The street cam probably also affects
   things.

   No doubt about it - a CO-NOX setup is a gem for tuning a car. Each tells
   you what isn't happening right. (I seem to recall, from about 12 year's
   absence from the business) CO emissions highlight failed spark - bad
   wires, timing off, dwell wrong, etc.   Can't remember NOX, but it was
   a great way to tell what was wrong.
From: rtoth@aramis.rutgers.edu (Robert Toth)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: A quick question
Date: 1 Sep 92 15:51:03 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.


Does anyone know the gross vehical weight of a 1981 Monte Carlo with
the 3.8l turbo?   The sticker on the door jamb is worn so bad I can't
make out any of the information.  


Thanks in advance.


...rob
-- 

 -----------------------------------------------------------------------
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|  rtoth@cs.rutgers.edu              |Science Research                  |
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Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: eric@eeco.cba.ufl.edu (Eric E.C. Olson)
Subject: Re: car ramps for Mustangs
Organization: College of Business, University of Florida
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 11:00:15 GMT

In article <1992Sep2.092725.12309@mr.med.ge.com> hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987) writes:
>bohdan.l.bodnar (bohdan@cbnewsd.cb.att.com) wrote:
>: I have a 1986 Mustang which has a very low body + air scoop.  The ramps I
>: currently use are too high for this car...
>How about jacking the car up, sliding the ramps under the wheels, and working
>on it that way?  Slower, but it's free!  You would just be using the ramps 
>as jack stands, basically, but I feel better when the car is on ramps with
>the wheels chocked anyway.

I have a Triumph Spitfire that's also too low-slung for "stock" ramps.

1) DON'T use wood for the ramp to drive up...  someone suggested a 6' 2x8" 
   board...  maybe to drive a lawnmower onto a pickup, but Stangs are a lot
   heavier than Toros :-)

2) I usually use my floor back to pop the car up in the air & put the 
   seriously massive ramps under the wheels, chock, etc.

3) Another approach:  Make your own "incline" to get up onto your nice steel 
   ramps.  Cut several pieces of 2x8" board, each a few inches shorter than 
   the previos one... nail them together, one on top of another.  A friend 
   of mine uses a setup like this for el-cheapo ramps.
           33333
        22222222
     11111111111      Sorta like that.  If the grade is shallow enough, 
		      you're fine.

Eric Olson
eric@chip.cba.ufl.edu
Univ. of Florida


re fine.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: Exhaust Manifold Stud Removal
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 92 06:41:11 GMT

Wayne Smith (wlsmith@valve.heart.rri.uwo.ca) wrote:
: In article <1992Aug28.160252.16115@news.cs.brandeis.edu> andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang) writes:
: >>
: >>I have a broken exhaust manifold stud frozen in my aluminium head.  The
: >>stud piece is about an inch long.  I have tryed liquid wrench and some 
: >>vibration to try and loosen it.  Does any one know how to remove it ?
: >>Thanks
: >>Tom Z
: >>
: 
: Get a stud extractor (I don't know if that's the right name or not).
: It looks like a spark plug socket, but it's got 3 rods in it that grabs the
: stud when you turn it.  They usually come in a box set of 4 or so.
: You can also use it to put a new stud in.  1" should be enough for it to
: grab onto.   It's a cool tool, and it doesn't wreck the threads.

Note that there are two types of stud extracers.  The type mentioned above
is by far superior, as you don't need all that clearance, and it keeps the
forces balanced on the stud so as to not break it off.  They are all (I
think) made in Germany, but you can buy them from Snap-On.  Rather 
expensive, though, but worth it.  The Crapsman version snaps off studs
if you're not REALLY careful.

Heat is your friend....try that as well.

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.
hinzd@picard.med.ge.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dpl@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (douglas.p.linden)
Subject: Re: Pressurize Oil Before Starting ?
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 17:59:25 GMT

In article <2840016@iftccu.boeing.com>, bressler@iftccu.boeing.com (Rick Bressler) writes:
> / iftccu:rec.autos.tech / vbreault@rinhp750.gmr.com (Val Breault) /  8:20 am  Aug 25, 1992 /
> 
> They quite often will sit for several weeks at a time, and only my 
> every day driver gets any real miles.  Now, if you want to believe 
> the Slick 50 adds, :-) after a period of time most of the oil film 
> is off of the moving parts.  (Actually, I think this is around two 
> weeks, and is the only part of the Slick-50 advertising that I 
> personally believe.)  
> 
> Rick

I thought that too, but after my Model A sat 2 months I finally got
to dropping the pan to take up on the main&rod bearings.  I was 
surprised to find the bearings to still be driping oil after that
length on time.  There was a beautiful coating of oil on all the 
crank journals.  So I would tend not to worry if an engine sits 
around a few weeks.

Doug
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dbowman@warp (Don A. Bowman)
Subject: Re: overheating
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 21:54:00 GMT

Ken Zuroski <kz08+@andrew.cmu.edu> writes:
: I have a Ford '86 F150 pickup. My wife was driving it today, and she did
: not notice that the temperature gauge was creeping up. As she pulled into
: ...
:
: I suspect a leak in the cooling system, and figure that the coolant simply
: ran dry. There is one other sympton that is confusing me, however. Now even
: with a full radiator, whenever the truck is idling and I turn on the heater,
: the air coming out of the heater remains cool until I rev the engine a bit--
: then it heats up momentarily and then gets cool again. This is not the same
: response that I remember before the engine boiled over. Then, the heater seemed
: to heat up quickly even at idle and gave good constant heat output. 

On my Renault 5, the cooling system is a sealed thermo-syphon. This means that a
bubble in it will prevent coolant from flowing properly. There are two bleed screws,
any you basically open them, lift the overflow bottle, and wait for the coolant to run
clear with no air bubbles. I get the same heater symptom if there is a bubble.

Hope this helps.

Don.
-- 
Don Bowman                (519) 744-6154     dbowman@zeus.uwaterloo.ca
From: Steve.Kaess@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Steve Kaess)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Converting to electronic ignition
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1992 15:14:42 -0500

 >
 > [1] Several people indicated that cars manufactured after
 > 70's in US all
 > use electronic ignition. However, I found many (maybe most?)
 > cars in OZ
 > before 85(?) still use contact points ignition. Does anyone
 > has an
 > explanation to this? One thing I could think of is that
 > OZ is not cold
 > enough in winter to cause icing problem for contact points,
 > so it is not
 > necessary to use electronic ignition and that the MAIN
 > advantage of the
 > electronic ignition over the conventional contact points
 > is that the EI
 > works better in cold winter.
BZZT WRONG!! no maintance required, lower emissions, better 
performance(emissions, power, drivability) longer spark plug life

 >
 > [2] Everybody expressed that the EI is superior to the
 > contact points
 > ignition. Does the contact points ignition has anything
 > better than the EI?
  NO!!..wait...it is cheaper for the manufacturer...
 > [3] In my original post, I said that the points in my car
 > were burnt in
 > 6 months of time. Several replied indicated that this is
 > too short. They
 > suggested me to check the capacitor and the coil, etc..
 > Actually, the
 > points were badly pitted and the color of the contact surface
 > was
 > black/blue. I checked the capacitor using a multi-meter
 > resistance range.
 > The needle moved a bit and returned to infinite resistance
 > reading. From
 > my knowledge of electronics, there was nothing wrong with
 > the capacitor.
 > Do you know how to test the coil? The ballast resistor
 > was changed
 > several month ago on the road side by the RACV mobile repairer
 > and I am
 > not sure if they put the right resistor or not. Do you
 > know the
 > specifications of the ballast resistor for a 4KC engine?
 >
Come on guy!!! a damm condensor is 3 bucks...In the states we would 
change the condensor wity the points as pm...perhaps the condensor 
has a failure mode in other tempiture conditions then those under 
your test?? your problems are yelling "replace the condensor, replace 
the condensor"...as to the ballest resistor...gosh 20 bucks to go 
to toyota to get a brand new'right' one...but replace the condensor 
first...
 > [4] I did a carburetter job about a year ago because the
 > engine did not
 > deliver much power in high throttle. Press the accelerator
 > pedal further




Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sontakke@helix.enet.dec.com (Vikas Sontakke)
Subject: Re: Malm's Wax
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 14:09:34 GMT


In article <1992Sep3.172002.27181@iitmax.iit.edu>, vonb@iitmax.iit.edu (Robert Von Borstel) writes...
>I want to get a good wax for my car.  From what I've seen,
>having 'carnauba' is a must.  Anyone have any experience with
>Malm's wax?  They advertise in R&T, C&D, etc.
> 
>$31 - wax,  $49 wax+polish
> 
>Any other recommendations?  Point me to a faq if this is
>already answered.

I tried it few years ago and was not terribly impressed.  My extensive
experience with waxes boil tells me that the best bet is to stay with Meguire
Mirror Glaze line.  A good paint shop carries the entire line and they will
probably help you in making the right selection after looking at your car.

Vikas Sontakke		Digital Equipment Corporation, Maynard MA.
Internet:		sontakke@helix.enet.dec.com
    uucp:		{decvax,ucbvax,allegra}!decwrl!helix.enet!sontakke
			sontakke%helix.enet@decwrl.dec.com
From: alan@lancaster.nsc.com (The Hepburn)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: MPG on 4WD's
Date: 28 Aug 92 14:44:43 GMT
Organization: National Semiconductor Corporation

In article <2840015@iftccu.boeing.com>, bressler@iftccu.boeing.com (Rick Bressler) writes:
|> '92 F350 crew cab (4 door) injected 460.  Curb weight ~6500.  9.75 city, 
|> 14 highway.
|> 
|> Rick.

Okay:  it's not 4WD, but

'90 F350 Crew Cab 7.3l Navistar  17 city,  22 hiway, unless I'm pulling my
34 ft fifth wheel then 10 city, 12 hiway.  With the fifth wheel the combined
weight is 16,000 lb!

-- 
Alan Hepburn           "An ignorant person is one who doesn't know
National Semiconductor       what you have just found out."
Santa Clara, Ca              
alan@berlioz.nsc.com                              Will Rogers
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: drew@caesar.cs.colorado.edu (Drew Eckhardt)
Subject: Re: Brakes
Organization: University of Colorado at Boulder
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 17:48:58 GMT

In article <1992Aug31.130938.4234@mlb.semi.harris.com> jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger) writes:
> An advantage of -not- connecting the two master cylinders in parallel and then

> As far as loss of braking power with altitude, if you have a vacuum booster
>(power brakes) you will see a drop in vacuum at altitude because the ambient
>pressure is lower. If your brakes are marginal you'll see it then. Your idle
>vacuum may be even lower than normal due to (a) and the mixture error also
>due to (a) can drop it even more. 

That would only affect effort required - but there aren't power 
brakes so that isn't it.  What I mean is that with the pedal all the 
way to the floor, pumping to get out air, etc. the brakes worked
marginally. 
-- 
Microsoft is responsible for propogating the evils it calls DOS and Windows, 
IBM for AIX (appropriately called Aches by those having to administer it), but 
marketing's sins don't come close to those of legal departments.
Boycott AT&T for their absurd anti-BSDI lawsuit.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hejl@aslws01.asl.dl.nec.com (Mike Hejl)
Subject: Re: Exhaust Manifold Stud Removal
Followup-To: hejl@asl.dl.nec.com
Organization: NEC America, Inc. Irving, Texas
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 19:18:55 GMT

In article <1992Aug28.183311.5955@julian.uwo.ca> wlsmith@valve.heart.rri.uwo.ca (Wayne Smith) writes:
>
>Get a stud extractor (I don't know if that's the right name or not).
>It looks like a spark plug socket, but it's got 3 rods in it that grabs the
>stud when you turn it.  They usually come in a box set of 4 or so.
>You can also use it to put a new stud in.  1" should be enough for it to
>grab onto.   It's a cool tool, and it doesn't wreck the threads.

Yes, these are "cool" tools but they do cause minor thread damage and need
about 3/8" of the stud exposed. They were (are?) made by Hazette (sp?) and
mine are marked "Made in W. Germany" so who knows...

Unfortunately, they arn't cheap and I've only seen them on MAC and Snap-On
tool trucks. I think I paid $60 for a set of 4 (5mm-8mm) about 10 years ago.

Snap-On also makes an [expensive] collet type stud remover/installer.  IMO,
the cam types are worthless.

-- 
+=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=+
| Mike Hejl  NEC America, Inc.  Advanced Switching Lab, Irving, TX          |
| hejl@asl.dl.nec.com    I don't even speak for myself, much less NEC...    |
+=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=+
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rakoczynskij@gtephx.UUCP (Jurek Rakoczynski)
Subject: Oil analysis (was Re: Pre-luber summary & Oil Changes)
Organization: AG Communication Systems, Phoenix, Arizona
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 17:58:40 GMT

In article <VBREAULT.92Aug31093946@rinhp750.gmr.com>, vbreault@rinhp750.gmr.com (Val Breault) writes:
[various parts deleted]
> I suppose that if you had access to a chemistry lab you could monitor
> the condition of the oil and determine precisely when your oil needed 
> changing.

Val, you have finally forced me to ask something I been thinking about
for years.  Maybe someone knows:

1. Is there any tests that a "saturday mechanic" can do at home?

For additive depletion (there's so many)?  You would have to test a
new batch before you used it to establish a base line.  What about
contamination by metal wear or combustion by products?  Viscosity is
easy if you have the ASTM specs handy.  I wonder what the guidelines
for maximum levels are?

2. What "low end" cheap equipment do oil analysis companies use.

Just some of my random thoughts.
-- 
Jurek Rakoczynski, AG Communication Systems, POB 52179, Phoenix, AZ. 85072
UUCP: ...!{ncar!noao!enuucp | att}!gtephx!rakoczynskij  Voice: +1 602 581 4867
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Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: pngai@adobe.com (Phil Ngai)
Subject: Re: CLUB Story
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 19:57:01 GMT

In article <1992Sep1.025939.26928@uniwa.uwa.edu.au> scott@psy.uwa.oz.au (Scott Fisher) writes:
>The average locks were removed from anywhere between 15 seconds to 3 minutes.
>all brands and styles failed the test at the hands of the amature.
>The CLUB lock was apparently in the 15 second category.

You don't understand. The CLUB is not about auto theft.

The CLUB is about legally carrying a lethal weapon in your car.
Just like MAG-LITE flashlights.

-- 
My opinions are my own.
A right delayed is a right denied.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jgraham@bronze.ucs.indiana.edu (the End)
Subject: Carbeurator C-M Solenoid: WHAT IS IT ??????
Keywords: mystery lousy variable electronic choke nightmare
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 18:22:41 GMT



Does anyone know what the CM or "duty" solenoid is on an 87 Charger
carbeurator ? It is apparently some part of the emissions control
system.

I had a new carb. put on my car after a tuneup failed to relieve a
problem I was having with a loss of power during a hard acceleration.
The problem persists, and the mechanic who replaced the carb. said
that if he disconnected the CM solenoid, the problem dissapeared. He
then replaced the solenoid and I still have the problem. Can someone
help me find it and disconnect it ?

Does anyone else have a problem like this with their (1985-+) Doge
Charger or Omin/Horizon ? My car runs great while cold, but then when
it reaches normal operating temperature, it begins to lag during an
acceleration intermittently. If I turn it off and let it sit a few
minutes, then start it warm, the problem is greatly reduced, but still
there when I really accelerate hard.

Any comments greatly appreciated.

E-mail me:

Jim Graham
jgraham@sunflower.bio.indiana.edu

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech