HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: sproven@cs.strath.ac.uk (Simon B Proven IE91)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Subject: Re: My Bicycle Helmet Experience
Date: 20 Aug 92 08:39:46 GMT
Organization: Comp. Sci. Dept., Strathclyde Univ., Glasgow, Scotland.

In article <EUGENE.92Aug17102225@trout.ksr.com> eugene@ksr.com (Eugene Yi-jen Pan) writes:
>> Personally I enjoy reading about how peoples helmets saved them from injury.
>> It makes me feel good.  Why do you feel compelled to criticize them?
>> -Terry
>In article <6034@lhdsy1.lahabra.chevron.com> roat@rrc.chevron.com (Suzanne Roat,Chevron,(510)242-5313) writes:
>> 
>> Helmetless bikers = organ donors (hope you carry your donor card when you ride).
>> 
>
>Because of bullshit, holier than thou, sensational statements like this one.
>If people want to wear helmets, fine.  Just don't preach the total bullshit.
>How many bicycle deaths are there a year?  How many helmetless bicyclists?  I
>would guess many orders of magnitude difference.
       ^^^^^

Ha!  You call other people "bullshitters" on the basis of your "guess"

Who's holier than thou? ;-)

Bullshit?  80% of cyclist deaths are head injury.  A cycle helmet will
prevent death in 80% of head injury cases.  That means that you are
slightly less than half as likely to die if you wear a helmet.  36%
as much chance of dying.  I call that a worthwhile reason for wearing
a helmet.  I hope you never fall of your bike, because you might not
live to regret not shelling out for a nice, light, trendy (okay, okay,
I can bullshit too) helmet.  One accident is all it takes.

 _ _ _            _    __
' ) ) )        / / \  /  )    /
 / / / __.  __/ / (/ /--<  o /_  _
/ ' (_(_/|_(_/_/\___/___/_<_/ <_</_
sproven@cs.strath.ac.uk             REAL (tm) peeps ride bike :)
From: Dave Snyder <davesnyder@igc.apc.org>
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Date: 17 Aug 92 12:56 PDT
Subject: Re: Bicycle Cops on the Beat
Nf-ID: #R:1992Aug14.022553.20864@eskimo.ce:1731207829:cdp:1449700037:000:83
Nf-From: cdp.UUCP!davesnyder    Aug 17 12:56:00 1992


SAN Francisco has cops n bikes, too. More an dmoer cities are getting them.

/dave

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
From: gmack@oakhill.sps.mot.com (Gregg Mack)
Subject: Re: Truck bed racks
Organization: Motorola Inc., Austin Tx.
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 13:31:47 GMT

In article <16u3hdINN5uf@seven-up.East.Sun.COM> cbrunson@vermont.East.Sun.COM writes:
>Actually I took everyone's advice and built my own last night. It took
>about 2 hrs (including the trip to the hardware store ;^) ) and cost
>under $6. [...]
>
>Thanks for all the advice, now can anyone tell me what to do with the $75-
>$100 I saved? ;^)
>
>---
>UPA Masters Team: Red Menace		Chuckie B.
>BACUL Team: 	  RADial ACTive 	Sun Microsystems/SunSoft Inc. BDS
>Boston Area Corporate Ultimate League 	chuck.brunson@East.Sun.COM
> You're NEVER too old to play! 		Work Phn. (508)671-0527

Chuckie,

  SURE.....go out and get some dual-caliper brakes, or some Continental Grand Prix
tires!  These seem to be the HOT items this week!


-- 
Gregg Mack                  --------- __o       __o       __o       __o
gmack@oakhill.sps.mot.com   ------- _`\<,_    _`\<,_    _`\<,_    _`\<,_
Motorola RISC uProcessors   ------ (*)/ (*)  (*)/ (*)  (*)/ (*)  (*)/ (*)
Austin, TX  USA             ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Wed, 19 Aug 1992 08:05:00 CDT
From:         Charlie Griffin <CGRIFFIN@KSUVM.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: bending wood

On Wed, 19 Aug 1992, Dennis Bednarek Mfg 4-6971
<bednarek@PICARD.MED.GE.COM> writes:
>
> Les Bartel (lester@naomi.NoSubdomain.NoDomain) wrote:
> : What is the best way to bend wood?  I need to make a smooth 90 degree
> : bend on a piece of wood 1 x 3/8 x 8 (the board is longer than this, but
> : the bend must occur in 8 inches).  I soaked the wood in water for
> : about a day and it developed creases in the bend.
> I have not worked with anything thicker than about 3/16 when trying a tight
> bend like 90deg in 8". And even at that I usually soak the wood for about
> five days.  If I need a thicker peice I always laminate them together.
>
You might pick up any of a number of basic intro books on music instrument
construction which describe bending the curved sides of guitars, violins,
mandolins, etc.  The procedure uses a heated bending iron.  Dampened or
soaked wood is held against the heated metal, moving it so it doesn't scorch,
as it dries into the desired curve.  A very workable iron can be created with
a butane or other small torch mounted so that it shoots into the end of a
section of pipe...3-6" diameter.  I'm not aware of any lengthy soaking for
days when this technique is used....minutes to hours with some rubbing on of
additional moisture with a wet rag is more common.  The wood this procedure is
used with is generally much thinner than 3/8", so I don't know how it'll work
on thicker wood.

One more comment...this procedure leaves the wood bent to very specific curves
that are intended to stay that way without having to be held in a jig or
clamped to dry.

Check out some of the books on instrument construction if this interests you.
---Charlie Griffin
soaked
From: ben@bailey.UUCP (Ben Bailey)
Subject: edging for plywood
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date: 15 Aug 92 14:46:24 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Ben Bailey's Home..Tampa Fl.

I haven't been pleased with my results in placing wood edges around
plywood.  

I've recently seen an ad in Woodworker's Supply (June 92 pg 87) that
describes 'thick, solid wood T-Molding strips' that looks like it might
do the job.

Has anyone had any experience with these?

Also, biscuits wouldn't seem to me to work well with plywood, but I've
never tried.  Do you have an opinion regarding this?

Any other suggestions?  (Seen any good articles, books relating to this?)

Thanks

Ben Bailey
--
Ben Bailey                 ben@bailey.uucp -- bailey!ben@uunet.uu.net
12210 Shady Forest Dr.     ben@bailey.tscs.com
Riverview, Fl. 33569       -- The main thing is to keep the main
813-677-5021                  thing the main thing.  Mainly. 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: adb@herboid.uucp (Anthony DeBoer)
Subject: Re: A fire safety reminder
Organization: Linda's Dragon Memorial Society
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 02:18:30 GMT

Don Ford <dwford@nv6> writes:
>I heard an interesting story from a friend about flammables in the
>washer.  It seems he got tar all over his coveralls.  His wife, knowing
>that gasoline is a good solvent for tar soaked them in a bucket of gas.
>She then threw them into the washer.  The hot water vaporised the
>gasoline and then some little relay said "click".  The resulting
>explosion blew the machine apart!  Time for a new washing machine!
>Fortunately no one was hurt and no other damage was done.

Knowing that my wife, in the process of growing up on a farm, washed a lot
of things in gasoline (not to mention having fun with gasoline and
matches), I asked her for some practical tips.  First off, anything they
washed in gasoline got left outside, away from other flammables, to dry
thoroughly.  The other thing is they would wash it with baking soda to
neutralize things, on the scale of maybe 1/4 cup with a pair of overalls.
-- 
Anthony DeBoer                       | Why watch TV, when Netnews provides
adb@herboid.uucp | adb@geac.com      | 100% of your daily requirement for
uunet!geac!herboid!adb               | trivia and meaningless entertainment?
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-VMS-To: IN%"WOODWORK%IPFWVM.BITNET@pucc.Princeton.EDU"
MIME-version: 1.0
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Thu, 20 Aug 1992 15:07:11 -0800
From:         RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM
Subject:      Re: Maybe YOU can learn from MY mistake
X-To:         WOODWORK%IPFWVM.BITNET@pucc.Princeton.EDU

What a realy miserable thing to have happen. If you have home owners
(or renters) insurance you should contact your agent and see if any of your
tools, wood, etc are covered.

                        Ron
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Exposed wiring and the NEC.
Date: 17 Aug 92 07:07:11 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <1992Aug16.083929.9034@agora.uucp> trifid@agora.uucp (Roadster Racewerks) writes:
>Building codes of all sorts vary WIDELY from one jurisdiction to another...

>*Amazingly* might be a better choice of word...

Well, of course.  That's why we said so in the FAQ.  Which inspector you
get also matters.  We said that too.

>I won't even consider the differences in standards in other countries.  :-)

We did in the FAQ.  There are fewer differences than you'd think between
Canada and the US.  But we note them as far as we're aware.

Mind you, comparing codes in the USSR (say) and USA would be a little
ridiculous.  The only reason why we get away with it is because
Canada is the USA's biggest trading partner, and vice-versa.  Which
leads to a lot of "cross-pollination" in electrical suppliers and
electrical code.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: Cabinet scraper advice?
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 19:52:29 GMT

Doug Cutler writes
> On Mon, 17 Aug 1992 17:31:30 GMT John Hall said:
> >3. One of the long edges of the blade appears to have once been grooved
> >or serrated in some way.  Why?
>   This is to put a "toothed" surface in wood faces before glueing, there
> was a certain amount of disscussion on this list a few weeks ago about
> this practice.

Recently on "The Woodwright's Shop," Roy had a guest that specializes in  
marquetry. He used a toothed scraper to level the glued up product. He said  
something along the lines of some people feeling that the toothed scraper is  
less likely to tear out or to lift an edge. 

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
From: tde@cbnews.cb.att.com (thomas.d.esh)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Installing Blade Stabilizers
Date: 14 Aug 92 19:57:22 GMT
Article-I.D.: cbnews.1992Aug14.195722.13728
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T

I just bought a set of Freud Blade Stabilizers for my Delta Contractor's
saw.  My question is:

Should I remove the small stabilizers that come with the saw?
If so, how??  If not, then adding the additional larger stabilizers
will shift the blade over and I will be unable to use the metal 
insert, thereby having to use wooden zero clearance inserts.

The outside stabilizer is easy to remove, since you have to
remove it everytime you change the blade.  It's the inside
stabilizer, that is difficult/impossible to remove.

The one of the salesmen, where I bought the Freud Stabilizers from, 
said to remove both of the small stabilizers,  another salesman said
that you can't remove the inside stabilizer because it is pressed onto
the arbor shaft.

What have other people done in my situation?

Thanks
Tom Esh
From: carrd@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Aged pine finish
Date: 18 Aug 92 13:38:58 EST

There seems to have been a revival in trying to achieve a naturally 
aged look when finishing pine.  The finish has a yellow hue.

What finishing methods are employed to achieve this result?

Thanks in advance!

Dave

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: neek+@CS.CMU.EDU (Craig Marcus)
Subject: Re: bending wood
Organization: Carnegie Mellon University
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 15:12:58 GMT

Although I've just skimmed the article,
the new FWW (sep/oct ?) has an article on
creating a box w/ steam-bent corners.  The
corners on the box which they pictured were
incredibly tight 90 degree turns...

Craig.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: garyp@gvls2.gvl.unisys.com (Gary Palangian)
Subject: Re: A Grizzly Tale: Mr. Grizzly Returns
Organization: Unisys Defense Systems, Great Valley Labs, Paoli, Pa
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 21:01:52 GMT

BOULAN@TECHNET.NM.ORG writes:

.Well, I quess I am one of those who is enough of an amateur woodworker that
.I seldom feel I have enough knowledge to contribute to topics being discussed
.by others on the net. I am however experienced in the area of customer service
.operations, not only running such operations but conducting classes for other
.businesses in the development and operation of effective organizations.

.I can only tell you that based on the latest response from Mr. Baiola, I will
.never do business with Grizzly. In this competitive age, I can certainly find
.alternate sources that are willing to serve me regardless of how long a letter
.I wish to write, how upset I am, or any other factor I wish to consider
.important to me. I know many of you will question whether or not the original
.complaint was reasonably stated or if expectations of what to expect from the
.company were reasonable or not, but let me first sya that that is not the point.A truly good customer service organization deals with a variety of these types
.of problems daily and must defuse emotionally distraught customers complaints.
.It is part of the business of a good customer service operation. If that is too
.much trouble for the Grizzly company, then they don't need my business. I'll
.continue to pay a litte but buy from someone like Woodworker's Supply wherw I
.have always been treated with the greatest of courtesy and respect despite my
.obvious lack of knowkedge.

.So Mr. Baiola, my suggeestion to you would be to read two books that might
.give you some insight into how to develop a proper customer service mentality:
.		1. Thriving on Chaos - Tom Peters
.		2. Service America - Karl Albrecht

.In the meantime, I'll spent my money somewhere else.


Bravo!


Gary
From: smb@ulysses.att.com (Steven Bellovin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Exposed wiring and the NEC.
Date: 20 Aug 92 01:19:46 GMT
Distribution: na

In article <wood.714160523@geode1>, wood@rtsg.mot.com (Dan Wood) writes:
>  So, what are you supposed to do where you're wiring with Romex, and come to a
> spot where the wiring will be exposed?  I think it's against code to switch to
> rigid conduit and pull the romex through.  Are you supposed to put in a box
> and switch to individual wires?  Sounds like a pain...

The NEC specifically permits lengths of conduit to be used to
protect or support Romex.  See 300-15(b), Exception No. 1.  (Note
that a fitting to protect the cable against abrasion is required.)
Indeed, to pass Romex through a floor, conduit is required.

I thought I'd once seen something limiting the length of such conduits
unless the circuit is derated.  But I couldn't find anything in a
quick search tonight.


		--Steve Bellovin
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mja@philabs.philips.com (Michael Amato)
Subject: Exposed wiring and the NEC.
Originator: mja@hercules
Reply-To: mja@philabs.philips.com (Michael Amato)
Organization: Philips Laboratories, Briarcliff, NY 10510
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 22:27:36 GMT


I am in the process of installing outlets and switch boxes in my 
new garage (basement level, block walls) and I have a question
reguarding exposed wiring. I was planning on running the horizontal
portions through the ceiling (floor joists) and dropping down for
each plug/switch using romex tacked to wood furing strips attached to
the wall. The boxes would be surface mounted 4' off the floor (other
wiring details deleted). From what I was able to get from the NEC,
exposed wiring only needs to be protected from damage (ie. put in
thin wall) when coming up through the floor (or near the floor) for
about 18" or so. Now when I read this groups Electrical Wiring FAQ 
(yes, some poeple do read it before posting) it states:

	Romex is a brand name for a type of plastic insulated wire.
	Sometimes called non-metallic sheath.  The formal name is NM
	(NEC) or NMD90 (CEC).  This is suitable for use in dry,
	protected areas (ie: inside stud walls, on the sides of joists
	etc.), that are not subject to mechanical damage or excessive
	heat.  Most newer homes are wired almost exclusively with NM/NMD90.
	
	Where the wire is subject to damage (ie: closer than 1 1/4" of
	the face of the stud, on the surface of walls below 5 feet, on
                              ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Could someone tell me where to find this in the code?

My local inspector is a real... well let's just leave it at that.
-- 
+-----------------------------------------------------------------+
| Michael Amato  DoD#0639 | "If pro is the opposite of con,       |
| mja@philabs.philips.com | then what is Congress"? - Will Rogers |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------+
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 14 Aug 1992 11:59:00 CDT
From:         Charlie Griffin <CGRIFFIN@KSUVM.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: A fire safety reminder

>
> I heard an interesting story from a friend about flammables in the
> washer.  It seems he got tar all over his coveralls.  His wife, knowing
> that gasoline is a good solvent for tar soaked them in a bucket of gas.
> She then threw them into the washer.  The hot water vaporised the
> gasoline and then some little relay said "click".  The resulting
> explosion blew the machine apart!  Time for a new washing machine!
> Fortunately no one was hurt and no other damage was done.
> --
>
> Don Ford
> U S WEST NewVector Group, Inc.                  (206) 450-8585

 Don, it brings to mind a long series of stories about exploding toilets, but
maybe I won't go into detail....
From: buffum@sw.stratus.com (Jeff Buffum)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Lie Nielson Responses, soapbox derby, and another question!
Keywords: planes
Date: 18 Aug 92 18:07:55 GMT
Organization: Stratus Computer, Inc.

I didn't get many responses on my inquiry about Lie-Nielson planes, but the few I
got seem to be favorable.  My reason for asking is that antique planes have shot
up in price and have become difficult to find in recent years.  Damn collectors
who put them on shelves are robbing us woodworkers of the use of some very nice
old planes.  Worse yet is those who substitute different size irons, varnish
the metal to keep away rust, grind the sole to eliminate pits thus opening the
throat and ruining the plane, ..... sorry, I'll jump down off my soapbox! 8=(

Anyway, attached are the responses I got.

As a follow-on, does anyone know a good source for replacement blades for old
Stanley planes, especially the series with wood bodies and metal adjustments?

Thanks and enjoy!

--------------- Responses -------------------------------------------
Article: 8685 of rec.woodworking
From: dmills@accvio.intel.com (Dave Mills)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Lie-Nielson Planes
Keywords: planes
Date: 12 Aug 92 01:39:00 GMT
Organization: Intel Corporation
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <5495@transfer.stratus.com>, buffum@sw.stratus.com (Jeff Buffum)
writes...
>With this recent discussion of Primus Planes, I was wondering what peoples
>experience has been with Lie-Nielson planes.  I got their catalogue and they
>make several bronze-manganese reproductions of old Stanley planes as well as
>what looks like a fairly nice small shoulder plane.

I have quite a few of their planes.  I'm probably out of line here, but I'll
say it:  I just buy them because they're so nice to have, I can't resist.  Same
as my collection of Bridge City Tools.  I'd never use any of those tools, and
thus can't give you a real opinion on their quality for use.  They *seem* to be
of excellent quality, and certainly have plenty of "heft," nice heavy blades,
etc.  I have much more ordinary tools that I actually use.

I can get good prices on the Lie-Nielsens...

Dave
-----------------
David Mills
Intel Corporation
dmills@intel.com

Article: 8686 of rec.woodworking
From: davei@comp.lancs.ac.uk (Mr D Ingles)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: bending wood
Date: 20 Aug 92 09:10:39 GMT
Organization: Department of Computing at Lancaster University, UK.

In article <WOODWORK%92081915393211@IPFWVM.BITNET> CGRIFFIN@KSUVM.BITNET (Charlie Griffin) writes:

>Sorry, Davei, that's one area of instrument construction I have not stumbled
>into.  I generally hit a good library and start digging through the references.
>I have found that interlibrary loan can get just about anything I want if I am
>very very patient. 

I'm afraid that I have found the libraries in this country are somewhat less
helpfull when it comes to matters like this. *8-(

>Good luck with it.  I'd enjoy hearing about it if you do
>start building a piano.

You will probably guess that I have started building when you see lots of 
postings to this conference for help !

Davei
From: RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Band Saw and wood lathe
Date: 13 Aug 92 17:45:13 GMT
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-Vms-To: IN%"WOODWORK%IPFWVM.BITNET@pucc.Princeton.EDU"
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT
X-To:         WOODWORK%IPFWVM.BITNET@pucc.Princeton.EDU

> I've been looking at the add's for reliant 14" band saws too. I haven't
> broken down and gotten one yet (I'd like to hear from owners too); but,
> I've seen ocasional mail order sale prices of $280 - $300 including shipping
>
>
>                                 Ron

Ron,

I hope I don't break your spirit or enthusiasm, but it has been my
experience that you usually get what you pay for.

Rex Dailey



Rex,

I aggree about getting what you pay for. For example I've got a 10",
plastic case, low powered, band saw that's served me very well since I bought
it from Montgomery Wards for $98 7 years ago. If it had a little more poo and
could handel a wider blade (I'm interested in resawing 8" - 10" red oak) I
wouldn't be looking to upgrade at all.

I've been very pleased with my $300 craftsman table saw and my $239 Royobi
radial arm saw and my $329 delta planer; so, $300 looks to me like a
reasonable sale price for a top of the bottem end band saw.

I would be very interested in any specific problems you know of (or suspect)
in the lower priced band saws. Espesialy the Relient.

                                Ron
From: kroth@sunshine.Kodak.COM (David Kroth)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Maybe YOU can learn from MY mistake
Date: 21 Aug 92 17:26:27 GMT
Article-I.D.: kodak.1992Aug21.172627.16199
Distribution: usa
Organization: Eastman Kodak Co., Rochester, NY

In article <1992Aug21.094514.1@max.u.washington.edu> John writes:
>Hopefully you took pictures with a handy polaroid first to make sure that
                                          ^^^^^^^^
>the insurance adjuster sees the damage at its worst.


Use Kodak film and developing instead of Polaroid ;)



Dave Kroth
kroth@acadia.kodak.com

Disclaimer: I am in no way connected to Eastman Kodak, except that they
employ me as an engineer and pay me a substantial salary for my ideas and
opinions.  I also own a small amount of stock in the company.