HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: praetzel@maxwell.uwaterloo.ca (Eric Praetzel)
Subject: Re: Help! Trickle-charging a gel-cell?
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 12:57:17 GMT

In article <1993Jan11.225655.6030@src.dec.com> jcollias@src.dec.com (Jim Collias) writes:
>
>I'm gonna buy me a 4 AH 12 v rechargable gel-cell for my home-brew lighting
>system and I don't wanna spend the extra $30 for the charger.

First off the easy case:
Lead acid / Gel Cell batteries

You can build a simple charger with a DC battery charger or old DC power supply
and a LM317 Voltage regulator.  The total circuit is 6 parts plus the charger
(2 capacitors, 1 LM317, 2 protection diodes, 1 variable resistor).  You set the
voltage to 2.2V / cell (ie 13.2 V for a "12V" battery).  The LM317 is protected
against over current, over heating and so will limit the battery current to a
max of about 1.5A under any condition.  If it is a very small battery you will
want to limit the current a bit.  In this circuit the actual current you get
out will depend upon the type of voltage regulator (ie 5A, 1.5A, 1A, 0.5A 
models) and the size of the heatsink that you attach it to (if it gets hot it
will decrease the current to protect itself).

2nd part:
Ni-cad charger / constant current source

You can build a very simple constant current source with the same regulator
(LM317) using 2 resistors (and perhaps two small capacitors and 2 diodes
for protection).

The circuits are in any voltage regulator handbook or data book.  Even Radio
Shack has it in their electronic circuits book.  If you have the DC voltage
source then all it takes is about $6 in parts, a case and a few lumps of
metal (heatsinks) to mount the LM317's on.  If you want to get fancy you can
add a volt meter and a current meter.  You can combine the two to get a 
current limited (with adjustable limit) voltage source.  This is ideal for
nicads and works well with lead acid batteries.  Unfortunately I am not
handy with ascii drawings so I will refrain from including a circuit.  I
believe that the whole thing could be done in less parts.  I will see what
I can find.
  - Eric 
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: M16302@mwvm.mitre.org
Subject: Re: Avocet 30 on a 32-Spoke?
Organization: The MITRE Corporation, McLean VA 22102
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 21:37:24 GMT

Yes.  I have one on my bike, at least for my Avocet which I think is a 40.
 
Robert B. Shain                              EMAIL: RSHAIN @MITRE.ORG
The MITRE Corporation                        Voice: (703)883-5592
Center for Intellignence & Special Programs  FAX: (703)883-6991
Mailstop W955
7525 Colshire Drive                    "My other computer is a Cray"
McLean, VA. 22102                      "My other car is a bike"
                                       "My other sport is ping pong"
 
In article <93012.123237TOM@SLACVM.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU>
<TOM@SLACVM.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU> writes:
 
>
>I'm transfering my Avocet 30 which the ring was mounted on a 36-spoke to my
>new bike/wheel 32-spoke, only it doesn't quite fit right.  Does AV make a
>ring for the 32-s or what?
>                                       -tom
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: newman@otto.ycc.yale.edu (Andrew Newman)
Subject: Re: MBA LX review.
Organization: Yale University
Date: 11 Jan 93 17:54:26 GMT


>paynter@bnr.ca (Stuart Paynter) writes:

>>Let's try to leave the looks of components as it is totally 
>>subjective.  Is there anything else that I've missed in the above?

tthiel@cs.uiuc.edu (Terry Thiel) writes:

>Well everything is subjective but the painted components go directly
>to the issue of durability.  Not only does it look like hell pretty
>quickly but I would guess that it's much more likely to rust once the paint
>comes off.
>-Terry
>-- 
>-Terry

Hmm!  Rust!  Now I am a little concerned.  I've thus far only seen
pictures of the new LX cranks.  I haven't fondled one myself but I just
assumed that it was painted unpolished alloy of a grade at least
similar to that of last year's LX cranks.  I've never had alloy rust
before.  My assumption was that the paint saved the effort (and cost)
of polishing the metal not as a protection against rust.  Anyone know
for sure what these are made of?


*  |===|  ===\  *==============================================================
*    |    |  |  *                 -Andrew Newman                              *
*    |    |==/  *                  C&IS Technology & Planning                 *
*    |    |     *                  Yale University                            *
*    |    |     *                  (newman-andy@yale.edu)                     *
*---------------*==============================================================
From: garrick@acsu.buffalo.edu (sean garrick)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: MBA LX review.
Date: 12 Jan 93 19:59:46 GMT
Organization: UB
Originator: garrick@cfd14.eng.buffalo.edu


> What other groups have you ridden/up/degraded from?

> Shimano Deore II and Shimano Deore DX.
> Occational rides on LX, Exage, etc. Even some short rides on (gasp!)
> Suntour.

I doubt you have ridden on any suntour drivetrains.
I have yet to ride a bike that shifts as well as my Suntour XC-Pro. Though I have yet to experience XTR, I have ridden a few bikes with XT, including a Serotta T-Max.

Learn to ride.
-Sean Garrick 
garrick@acsu.buffalo.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: dinsmm@vccnw02.its.rpi.edu (Michael Dinsmore)
Subject: Re: Plastic Ring on rear Wheel
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 22:49:48 GMT

king@reasoning.com (Dick King) writes:

>If your rear deurailler is always correctly adjusted you dont need this ring.
>If your rear deurailler is misadjusted to allow the jockey pulleys to move too
>far in the direction of lower gears, the deurailler can hit the spokes.  

>This is as bad as it sounds.  You lose the deurailler and the rear wheel, and
>you walk home.

>I'll keep my ring, thank you, but i wouldn't worry too much if it was missing.
>I would just ask at the local bike shop every time i needed some replacement
>part.
>-dk

Thank you.  One of the main reasons why I asked this question was I
was palnning on taking my freewheel apaart and while I had it apart,
it would be rather easy to fix this minor problem (the plastic thing
broke - it had nothing to do with trying to get silly weight savings)
at the same time.  While reading Barnett's (sp?) Maintenence Manual
about a few things, I looked up about the plastic ring, but the book
does not mention anything about them, in fact - every picture of a 
wheel in that book does not have that little plastic ring.  I suppose
that's since the owner always has the derailler correct (he IS writing
a book).  Well, I guess I will try to find a bike shop around here
(many of them are VERY poor) that sells replacements.
Thank you everyone who mailed to me or responded on this newsgroup.
I appreciate it.

Pedal On, 
Mike Dinsmore
dinsmm@rpi.edu
From: king@reasoning.com (Dick King)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Plastic Ring on rear Wheel
Date: 12 Jan 93 18:53:10 GMT
Organization: Reasoning Systems, Inc., Palo Alto, CA

In article <h0+3wmn@rpi.edu> dinsmm@aix.rpi.edu (Michael Dinsmore) writes:
>Hi.
>I have what might seem to be a trivial question?"
>Is the plastici ring next to the freewheel on the 
>back tire important?  Where can you get a replacement    
>if you need one?  
>When I was in Bike Nashbar in Boston, I asked one of     
>the guys there, and he said it was useless.  He also 
>didn't have any of them in stock - or sell any of them.
>Thank you.
>

If your rear deurailler is always correctly adjusted you dont need this ring.

If your rear deurailler is misadjusted to allow the jockey pulleys to move too
far in the direction of lower gears, the deurailler can hit the spokes.  

This is as bad as it sounds.  You lose the deurailler and the rear wheel, and
you walk home.

I'll keep my ring, thank you, but i wouldn't worry too much if it was missing.
I would just ask at the local bike shop every time i needed some replacement
part.


-dk
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: rob@icarus.inmos.co.uk (Robin Pickering)
Subject: Re: Flaky halogen/lead acid light
Reply-To: rob@icarus.UUCP (Robin Pickering)
Organization: INMOS Limited, Bristol, UK
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 13:08:37 GMT

In article <1993Jan7.011106.23470@mprgate.mpr.ca> trent@mpr.ca (Robert Trent) writes:
>a Yuasa 6 volt, 7.0 Amp*hour cell (model NP7-6), enough to power two 
>6-watt bulbs for over 3 hours, for $20 (Canadian).

This has been said before, but probably needs saying again lest someone should
get stranded in the middle of nowhere with no lights:

The quoted AH rates on lead-acid batteries are valid when new and discharged
at the 10 Hour rate (i.e. .7A for a 7AH cell) at a temperature of 20C.
When discharging at 2A and temperatures much lower than 20C then you will
not achieve anything like the quoted capacity.

I usually rely on roughly 1/2 of the quoted capacity 
when discharging at 1.6 A, temperatures down to less than 0C.

--
   Rob.
From: iglesias@draco.acs.uci.edu (Mike Iglesias)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: measuring chain wear?
Date: 9 Jan 93 15:45:01 GMT
Organization: University of California, Irvine

In article <12452@cayman.COM> pgf@cayman.com (Paul Fox) writes:
>
>hi -- i once read a simple rule that could be used to determine if your
>chain needs replacing -- something like "if 10 links measure longer than so
>many inches", or something like that -- can anyone refresh my memory?

This is from the FAQ, which is available via anonymous ftp from 
draco.acs.uci.edu (see the weekly posting for details).

    The only way to test whether a chain is worn is by measurement.
    The chain has a half inch pitch and, when new, has a pin at
    exactly every half inch.  As the pins and sleeves wear this
    spacing increases and becomes damaging to sprockets.  When the
    chain pitch grows over one half percent it is time for a new
    chain.  At one percent chainring damage progresses rapidly.  By
    holding a ruler along the chain on your bike, align an inch mark
    with a pin and see how far off the mark the pin is at twelve
    inches.  An eighth of an inch (0.125) is the ten percent limit
    while more than a sixteenth is a prudent time to get a new chain.
    

Mike
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: alf@hprpcd.rose.hp.com (Al Knoll x5317)
Subject: Re: New Phil Wood Hub question
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 22:33:55 GMT
Organization: Performance Technology Center, Roseville
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL7]

Richard Foulk (richard@pegasus.com) wrote:
: >Seriously, given the fact that I've got access to a machine shop:
: >anybody got any tips on a) lubricating and b)changing bearings in
: >the old non-user-servicable Phil Wood hubs?    Thanks in advance.
: >
: 
: When I showed my wheel (with old Phil Wood hub) to a local bike
: mechanic he mentioned that there is a tool available that will
: allow you to take these hubs apart so that you can replace the
: bearings.
: 
: The bearings are probably standard size cartridges available at
: a local bearing house.
: 
: -- 
: Richard Foulk		richard@pegasus.com

To renew the grease, you can gently pry the dust seals out of the bearing
shells, rinse out the old grease with a politically correct solvent, reapply
some new grease (Phils if you must but any marine outboard motor grease works
just as well) and gently refit the seal.

The dust seal is retained in a groove in the outer shell and can be carefully
pried out and reinserted many times if you're careful.


--

          ___  / __   __/   ____/          Al Knoll         HP Performance  /
         /    /      /     /              Technology Center Roseville, CA  /
        _____/      /     /              916-785-5317  (telnet 785-5317)  /
       /           /     /              email   alf@hpptc16.rose.hp.com  /
    __/          _/   ______/          _________________________________/
From: jtyl@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (BJ)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: wide-range gearing
Date: 8 Jan 93 16:25:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <1ij315INNl7f@darkstar.UCSC.EDU>, karplus@cse.ucsc.edu (Kevin Karplus) writes...
>I noticed that jtyl@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu posted a message about the
>new xc-expert microdrive, claiming a 20-32-42 front sprocket and 11-28
>rear sprocket.
>My computations show that as a 5.35:1 ratio, the widest I have ever
>seen....
>With 26" tires, the effective diameter is reduced to 18.6" to 99.3". 

Yep, that is absolutely correct.  If you carry your computation further,
you will also see that there is less overlap between the gear ranges
between the 3 chain rings.

>I'm wondering who this set up is intended for,....

It's intended for people like me, who always wanted an ultra low gear
without sacrificing the normal tighter gear spacings.

> since racers will not
>be happy with such a low top gear, and the low gear seems too low... 

Not true.  Ned Overend originally took his old XC-pro 12-28 7sp cassette
and adapted it into an 8 sp 11-28 setup.  He uses this setup mated to
a 20-32-44 microdrive front on his race bike.  Suntour just adapted his
idea and turned it into a production setup.

>(Even with a cadence of 85rpm, ground speed in low gear is only 2.2m/sec
>or 5mph.  Most hill-climbing is done with a cadence between 40 and 60rpm,
>giving 2.3--3.5 mph---that's slower than walking up the hill!)

Don't know about others, but I would rather ride bike up hill than push
bike up hill any day - even at 3mph.  That's why I mountain bike and don't
trail run.

For those of you who might be interested, I recently converted my old
XC-pro microdrive 11-24 7 sp rear to the 11-28 8sp.  The set up is 
identical except for the addition of the 28 tooth cog.  The idea of the
extra low gear is to allow my hill climbs to be more aerobic by increased
cadence.  I hope it will also allow me to remain seated more
often and have more traction control.  Since this is winter here in snow
country, I have not had a chance to verify any of my claims  :-(
+------------------------------------------------------------+
|               O               /^^*  *  O  ^^\              | 
|              /\,            /^    *   <|<   *^\            |
|             -\ -       /^^^^ /^^\    / \\  *   ^^\         |
|              /(*)  /^^^   /^^    ^  * \//    /^^\ ^^^\     |
|  \___Q    (*) /^^^^   /^^^   BJ Lau     \\   *   ^^\  ^\   |
|  /\ /\    ^^^ ^       jtyl@ubvms.cc.buffalo.edu     ^   ^^\|
+------------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: newman@otto.ycc.yale.edu (Andrew Newman)
Subject: Re: MBA LX review.
Organization: Yale University
Date:  7 Jan 93 19:09:08 GMT

craigb@sdd.hp.com (Craig Bosworth) writes:

>Despite the painted components, MBA did say that LX is "the best mid
>priced component group ever made."

>I don't mean to start a war here or anything, but why are some people
>so put off by painted components?  Sure, they get trashed looking
>after a few rides (mine did), but cosmetics aren't that important to
>me.

>Just wondering...
>-- 
>Craig Bosworth  (619) 592-8609
>Hewlett-Packard, San Diego Division
>craigb@sdd.hp.com

I'm wondering the same thing.  Presumably the cost of painting the
alloy is cheaper than polishing it.  How put off would people be if the
LX component line were both unpolished AND unpainted?  It seems
apparent that the new LX line offers awfully good value for the dollar
(yen?)  I can only presume that for the same price, a polished crank
would have to be of cheaper alloy of use less careful manufacturing
techniques.  They saved money where apporpriate.


*  |===|  ===\  *==============================================================
*    |    |  |  *                 -Andrew Newman                              *
*    |    |==/  *                  C&IS Technology & Planning                 *
*    |    |     *                  Yale University                            *
*    |    |     *                  (newman-andy@yale.edu)                     *
*---------------*==============================================================
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: grande@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (brad.l.grande)
Subject: Re: How do I trickle-charge my gel-cell?
Organization: AT&T
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 13:30:40 GMT

In article <1993Jan8.222307.1312@src.dec.com>, jcollias@src.dec.com (Jim Collias) writes:
> Hi all,
> 
> I'm gonna buy me a 7 AH 12 v rechargable gel-cell for my home-brew lighting
> system and I don't wanna spend the
> extra $30 for the charger.  I've read here that you can 'trickle-charge' one of
> these batteries with an existing ac-dc adapter, and I have a few of those lying
> around.
> 
> How should I go about doing this, ie. what volt/miliamp adapter should I use,
> is is it safe to leave it overnight, how long until full charge, etc...
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Jim
> 
Charging a gel-cell can be easy or it can be hard.  The easy way is to apply
about 2.1 to 2.3 volts per cell, or 12.6 to 13.8Volts.  Voltages less than this
will not fully charge your battery, greater than this range will charge your
battery but stress the cells and shorten it's life.  If you have a ac-dc
adapter that puts out this range, it can be used.  You will probably see that
the output of the adapter is much below it's unloaded output until the charge
is replaced in the cell.  Read the second of my three part series on home
brew ligthing systems for the trade offs.

The cheapest battery charger, and one that you probably already own, is your
automobile.  Go to Radio Shack and buy a cigarette lighter adapter plug.
Measure the voltage at the cigarette lighter to determine positive and negative.
Make yourself a harness that connects pos. to pos. and neg. to neg.  Bingo,
a fossil fuel powered battery charger that costs a buck a gallon plus insurance
and loan payments to operate and you can pocket the $30 that you have saved.

A risk you may encounter with a ac-dc adapter is the initial charge current
can be on the order of several amps, or from the perspective of the adapter,
a dead short.  A poorly designed adapter will probably get fried due to
excessive current or excessive heat.  A well designed adapter will proably
crowbar (i.e. will reduce it's voltage and current output under short circuit
conditions that will prevent fire) and the cell may never charge or may take
a very long time.  What you need is a poorly designed BEEFY adapter that can
take the rigors of what you will be asking it to do.


Brad Grande	WB0OYX
Another bike riding beer brewing kite flying amateur radio operator who
	still likes CD's!

AT&T Bell Labs
Naperville Illinausea
PLEASE SEND RESPONSES TO:	grande@iwtil.att.com
att!iwtil!grande
(708)-979-7853




Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: gross@stimpy.ame.nd.edu (George B. Ross)
Subject: Re: Avocet 30 on a 32-Spoke
Keywords: cheap, computer, stimpy, nose goblins
Reply-To: gross@stimpy.ame.nd.edu
Organization: University of Notre Dame
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 21:11:53 GMT

In article <93012.123237TOM@SLACVM.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU>  
<TOM@SLACVM.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU> writes:
> I'm transfering my Avocet 30 which the ring was mounted on a 36-spoke to  
my
> new bike/wheel 32-spoke, only it doesn't quite fit right.  Does AV make  
a
> ring for the 32-s or what?
>                                        -tom

Yep, cheap too, less than $5(US) around here.
-george
===============  NeXT mail more than welcome  ==================
George B. Ross                                           Oh joy!
gross@stimpy.ame.nd.edu                        --Stimpson J. Cat
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Which chain tool?
From: news@massey.ac.nz (USENET News System)
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 93 01:43:51 GMT
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech
Organization: SMIS, Massey University

mpb@nomad.JPL.NASA.gov (Michael Batchelder) wrote:

> Rivoli makes a good ~$10
> tool for both styles.  The HG style is gold colored, the non HG silver.
> This should do you nicely, w/o having to spend $80 on an overpriced
> shop-quality tool that you don't need.  Oh, and don't buy the Official
> Shimano tool. (Yes, I am being opinionated.  Please, if someone wants
> to flame me, do it factually; don't take it as a personal attack and
> fill my mbox w/ nasty messages.)  This thing costs more than double
> the Rivoli, and has a lifespan, in my humble experience, of about 10
> seconds.  I've seen three break under no unusual conditions, one was
> right out of the package.

I don't doubt the claims about the Shimano tool -- trouble is I just had
the same problem with a Rivoli.  It was the gold tool and a Sedis ATB
chain.  The pin seemed to be too soft and bent in use.  This was the first
chain I've fitted with it.  I've had much cheaper tools survive better than
this.  Maybe I had a faulty unit -- I'm going to check this out with the
bike shop tonight.

--
Phil Etheridge               P.Etheridge@massey.ac.nz
Macintosh Consultant         Phone: +64+6-356-9099 x8689
SMIS, Massey University      Fax:   +64+6-350-5611
Palmerston North, NZ         40*23'S 175*37'E,    GMT+13
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: frankb@sad.hp.com (Frank Ball)
Subject: Re: New Phil Wood Hub question
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 01:32:27 GMT
Organization: HewlettPackardSantaRosaSystmsDiv,RohnertParkCA
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

& >>Seriously, given the fact that I've got access to a machine shop:
& >>anybody got any tips on a) lubricating and b)changing bearings in
& >>the old non-user-servicable Phil Wood hubs?    Thanks in advance.
& >
& >When I showed my wheel (with old Phil Wood hub) to a local bike
& >mechanic he mentioned that there is a tool available that will
& >allow you to take these hubs apart so that you can replace the
& >bearings.
& 
& Unless it's one of the new "field servicable" hubs, the tool you're
& referring to is an arbor press.  Not exactly something you put in your
& knapsack and carry home.  If you've got one (and you'll need one one with
& plenty of reach if you don't want to take the wheel apart) then it's a
& simple matter of popping out the axle assembly, replacing the cartridges,
& and pressing it back into place with a generous serving of loctite.
& ****************************************************************************

The "tool" was a steel collar that allowed you to press on the outside
race of the bearings when putting the new axle back it.  The hubs I bought
new came with this tool in the box with the hubs.  It would be really easy
to make one.  You just find a piece of pipe that will slip over the axle
and will rest on the outer bearing race.

I wasted the bearings in the back wheel of my mtn bike.  Too many deep
stream crossing I suppose.  I just unscrewed the freewheel and gave the axle
a couple good blows with a big rubber mallet on the non freewheel side.
The axle and bearings popped out and I mailed it to Phil Wood.  No reciepts,
I just asked them to fix it.  A week or two later I got a new axle/bearing
assembly in the mail, no charge.  A few taps with the rubber mallet, this
time with the special tool, and the new axle was ready to roll.  No arbor
press needed.  

--
Frank Ball   1UR-M          frankb@sad.hp.com    (707) 794-4168 work,
Hewlett Packard             (707) 794-3844 fax,  (707) 538-3693 home
1212 Valley House Drive     IT175, XT350, Seca 750, '62 F-100, PL510
Rohnert Park CA 94928-4999  KC6WUG, LAW, AMA, Dod #7566, I'm the NRA.
From: jmyers@tekig7.PEN.TEK.COM (Jonathan E Myers)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Anyone tried the CV Posi-drive system?
Date: 12 Jan 93 23:59:55 GMT
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Beaverton,  OR.

Someone said that this system was capable of 4:1 (48:12) to (24:28) with
infinite adjustability between.  This would be insufficent for any road riding
since you need at least a (52:12).  This would also seem to be insufficent for
mountain biking since a (24:32) is the only way to go for the technical steep
stuff.  I also saw the ad for this system and was interested.

			Jon Myers.