HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Date: Tuesday, 28 Jul 1992 11:33:10 EDT
From: <34AEJ7D@CMUVM.BITNET>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Cutting sheet goods - best way?

Problem:  Cutting 4 X 8 sheets of [whatever] with sufficient accuracy and
reproducibility for cabinet work. I can't afford a shop-model panel saw,
and the "cutting guides" I've seen so far (Exac-T-Guide, Blade Runner II,
etc.) leave a little to be desired. I've been "muddling through" with
a portable circular saw and a straight edge, but it isn't an ideal solution
at all.

Anybody got any good suggestions for solving this headache?

Thanks in advance.


Sez me,

W. K. (Bill) Gorman
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 24 Jul 1992 15:07:00 CDT
From:         Charlie Griffin <CGRIFFIN@KSUVM.BITNET>

SET WOODWORK ACK
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: STEVE.BUSSELL@OFFICE.WANG.COM ("Steve Bussell")
Subject: RE: Benches
Organization: Mail to News Gateway at Wang Labs
Date: 31 Jul 92 08:59:29 EST

I also built Norm's Bench.  I've used it for about 3 years and am very happy
with it functionaly.  I do intend to build a European style as soon as I can
come up with the bucks for the maple and additional hardware.

Steve Bussell
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 27 Jul 1992 08:56:36 EDT
From:         Doug Cutler <UNCDWC@UNCVM1.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: BIFOCALS
              27 Jul 1992 06:43:00 EDT from <dfarr@ASRR.ARSUSDA.GOV>

      Well when I got hit with this problem I got hit with a bang and had
to were tri-focals.   They are a pain in the @** but I cannot see close up
without them.  The two big problems are that they must stay level on your
head or one eye looks though one section and the other one another, I cannot
focus on anything in this situation.  Bench work is fine but try looking under
something, in something, around the side ...  I suspect that this problem
would be worse with "lineless" ones.  BTY I do have the middle distance
section a wider than standard width.  The other problem which applies to all
eyglass wears I an sure is perspiration dripping onto the lenses but for bi/
tri focals is probably worse because you can loose a whole section of your
vision when you have htese limited ares.  I have considered getting a special
set of "middle distance onlt" glasses for workshop use.


  Doug. Cutler                       Office of Information Technology,
  VM Systems Programmer              University of North Carolina.
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 24 Jul 1992 09:45:02 EDT
From:         ZGDSHSE <ZGDSHSE@SJUMUSIC.BITNET>
Subject:      software for woodworkers

I noticed that Fine Wood Working has a classified ad section
on "Software."  See page 90 in July/Aug '92.  I have no idea
as to quality|

Hope this helps

Gene Sampson
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Wed, 29 Jul 1992 09:32:00 EST
From:         HUNTRESS GARY B <HUNTRESS@NPT.NUSC.NAVY.MIL>
Subject: Re: Benches
X-To:         woodwork <woodwork%ipfwvm.bitnet@pucc.princeton.edu>

>Well,   I just bought 350 BF of 16/4 white oak that has been air
>drying for 8 years...  (random width 6" to 12")  WOW!   (Now all
>I have to do is convince my wife we really don't need more than
>cheese and beans in our diet).

Aiieeeeeeeee!  What did you pay????  (he asked, day-glo green with
envy)  I was quoted over $5.00 per BF for 16/4 maple and oak that
was probably not properly dried.

>My thought is to build a workbench.  So I have been reading books
>like the color glossy "Workbenches" from Taunton, and Roy
>Underhill's book, etc..

I've got the same ones and they're really quite interesting.  Most
people just look at you with a puzzled expression..." a book just
about workbenches?"  All I can say is I *WANT* one!!

On a related note, a friend of mine has gotten in touch with Mr.
Tage Frid.  We are lucky enough to live near his workshop.  He has
cordially invited us to visit, and I intend to soak up as much old
world knowledge as I can!
===============================================================================
|  Gary Huntress			|  "I'm not a member of an organized  |
|  Naval Undersea Warfare Center	|   political party, I'm a democrat"  |
|  Newport RI				|				      |
|  (401) 841-7839			|    My Brother			      |
|  HUNTRESS@NPT.NUSC.NAVY.MIL		|   ( and Will Rogers )		      |
|=============================================================================|
|     Tension-  Finding yourself behind a Pinto and in front of an Audi 5000  |
===============================================================================
From: DMEJJ@CUNYVM.BITNET
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Trouble Ripping Hardwoods
Date: 23 Jul 92 20:48:04 GMT
Organization: City University of New York/ University Computer Center

I was wondering if anyone else has this problem.  Whenever I rip hardwoods
against the rip fence, the wood gets burn marks along the cut.  The only time I
really rip hardwoods on the table saw is to joint them.  Could the marks be
caused by the the blade having too many teeth and not letting the wood move
freely enogh?  When I joint wood I use a 60 tooth blade.  I know that the
rip fence is paralel to the blade.

I would welcome any advice.

Thanks.
Dan Schlissel
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: cpetterb@javelin.sim.es.com (Cary Petterborg)
Subject: Re: Keyless Chuck: yea or nay?
Organization: Evans & Sutherland Computer Corp.
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 20:39:35 GMT

In article <2156@tivoli.UUCP> news@tivoli.UUCP (New owner) writes:

>The contractor I learned about cordless drills from never used a key even with
>the regular chuck.  You just put the clutch on low, get a good grip on the chuck,
>then let the drill tighten itself. It works, but the notches can tear up your
>hand.  A keyless has no sharp edges, so the above technique is the recommended
>one.

No, the recommended technique is to unplug the drill and tighten the chuck
by hand!  I have done it both ways, too, but the manufacturer NEVER
recommends the other technique!

Cary
--
_______________
Cary Petterborg					   (801)582-5847 x6893
Evans & Sutherland Computer Corp.  Simulation Division   SLC, UT 84108
UUCP: ...!uunet!sim.es.com!cpetterb  *NET: cpetterb@javelin.sim.es.com
_______________
Not everything that counts can be counted.  Not everything that can be
counted counts.   - Charles Garfield
From: apoyner@as.arizona.edu (Tony Poyner)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: BIFOCALS
Date: 28 Jul 92 14:44:52 GMT
Reply-To: apoyner@as.arizona.edu
Organization: MMT Observatory, Univ.of Arizona

>> An aging woodwooker has been confronted with the need to use
>> bifocals.  How well do bifocals work in the shop?  There are two
>> types, progressive (no lines) or the conventional type.  Can
>> anyone provide some advice?

I have the progressive type, and like bi/trifocals they work fine when looking
down, but you get a major crick in the neck looking under something, or just
sighting along the saw table for blade setups, etc.  I have polycarbonate lenses
which are expensive, but act as safety glasses, which makes it worth it for me.

---
Tony Poyner                               apoyner@as.arizona.edu
Multiple Mirror Telescope Observatory     Tel   (602) 621-5185
Univ. of Arizona, Tucson, AZ 85721        Fax   (602) 670-5338
From: hollen@megatek.UUCP (Dion Hollenbeck)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Corian tops for router tables
Date: 28 Jul 92 16:23:13 GMT
Organization: Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California

>>>>> On Mon, 27 Jul 1992 13:39:43 GMT, millios@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (william.l.millios) said:

Bill> A while back, somebody posted what sounded to me like a great idea:
Bill> use Corian as a table top for their router table.
Bill> (Tale included details on routing a mitre slot, reduced-friction
Bill> surface, easy to clean, etc.)
Bill> Well, I went on my merry goosechase, calling here and there...
Bill> Whoa!  This stuff is expensive.  At 24 inches wide, the best quote
Bill> I can find so far is $10 (that's ten whole bucks) A LINEAR INCH!.
Bill> So, for a 2 foot by 2 foot table top, we're looking at $240 bucks.

Bill> Since this is a bit ridiculous (the tabletop costs more than the
Bill> PC 630 router), does anybody else have any good ideas?  I really
Bill> liked the looks of the Corian, but not the price...

Yes, but I am having a very hard time finding it.  There is a plywood
called FinForm used to build concrete forms.  It is 3/4" Finnish Birch
plywood with 15 plies and NO voids.  This makes it dimensionally
stable and as workable as solid wood.  On both sides of the plywood
has been "painted" a plastic coating much like formica, but it is not
a sheet glued on top, it is a coating right on the plywood.

I took a class from the representative of the Incra Jig factory and
his router table was made out of this material.  I have been trying to
track it down for about two months (on and off) and am finally close.
I have found a wholesale distributor who stocks it, now to get someone
who will order it for me.  I have heard prices from $75 to $150 per
4x10 sheet, so this is very expensive.

Another idea would be to just use Finnish Birch plywood without the
coating and laminate on some Formica.  I may have to resort to this.

Yet another idea is that one of the woodworking supply catalogs has a
router table made out of FinForm.  You can tell it by the maroon
coating.  It has open hardwood legs as a stand.  Costs about $150, if
I remember correctly.

-- 
Dion Hollenbeck       UUCP: {uunet, ucsd, sun}!megatek!hollen
                      INTERNET:            hollen@megatek.com
Megatek Corporation  9645 Scranton Rd.  San Diego, Ca.  92121
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jdc3538@ultb.isc.rit.edu (J.D. Cronin )
Subject: Seeking advice on refinishing old radio
Originator: jdc3538@ultb
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 00:44:00 GMT

We have an old floor-model radio, with the original finish scratched,
flaked off, etc. in many places.  What is the "best" finish to use
on this?  How about stains?  Any stains that work better than others?

Are there any good books that cover this type of refinishing?  We also
have a very old dresser with a beat finish (it was from student
housing), but decent quality wood.

Thanks...Jim

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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 28 Jul 1992 16:07:07 -0400
From:         Steve Mosier <MOSIER@UNCG.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Dust Collectors ???

roger (rhoover@watson.ibm.com) writes:

> I have the 2hp UFO-101 model.  This is the made in Taiwan machine that lots of
> places sell (Lobo, Jet, etc). I got mine from Trendlines about a year ago.  It
> does 1180 CFM or so and cost me $270 + $30 shipping.
>
> I currently have it connected to places, 3 machines plus my work bench.  Each
> has
> a blast gate with a switch wired so that the dust collector starts upon openin
   g
> the gate.  I use ADS 4" drain tubing with flexible dryer hose on the machine
> side
> of the blast gate.  This lets me move the machines around without problem.
> Duct
> tape is used to connect sections together.

I'm not sure what ADS 4" drain tubing is, but it sounds like plastic/PVC.  If
so, a word of caution:  sawdust & chips moving through plastic generate
beaucoup amounts of static electricity, as does the same moving through many
kinds of flexible dryer hose.  This static electricity can help clog the pipes,
as well as trigger a dust explosion in the shop.  This is why most dust
collection systems use metal pipe (and ground it).

steve - W3GRG
mosier@uncg.bitnet
mosier@iris.uncg.edu
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (Gary Preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Compressors & Air Tools
Date: 23 Jul 92 21:01:32 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: LLNL

In article <1992Jul22.225250.28739@bnr.ca>,  (Eric Youngblood) writes:

> The rating is stamped on a metal plate riveted to the motor housing, HP is
> a meaningless term, but most people are not going to understand torque ratings.
> 
Clearly Ericy doesn't understand HP.  HP = torque * rpm.

> The ability of a motor to do work is determined by the amount of torque it can
> produce. As was pointed out ordinary house current in the 110VAC 15 Amp variety
> comes out to about 2.4 hp. Better motors produce more torque at the same hp
> rating than cheaper ones. Your best bet is to get a compressor that is driven
> by a motor made by manufacturers that are recognized for their high quality.
> 
This is nonsense.  Any motors of the same HP rating have exactly the
same torque at the same rpm, given that the output HP is equal.

> I do not know why you feel Sears products are inferior. Sears has used brand
> name venders for components in thier product for years. IMO GE builds good
> electric motors that produce high torque #'s. The tank and pump were manufactured
> by DeVilbiss who has built industrial compressor systems for decades.

Torque has nothing to do with it.  Electric motors are capable of putting
out high torque while being overloaded so badly that they overheat within
5 to 10 minutes.  Of the two Sears machines I've had, that was the case.
A compressor was rated at 3 hp, duty "special".  Running this machine with
a sandblaster resulted in a temperature trip after 10 minutes of serious
work.  And the DeVilbiss name is no guarantee.  Sears hands them money and
specs and DeVilbiss builds to spec.

> 
> 

If this is all a mystery, consider a motor having 1 ft-lb of torque, but only
at 1 rpm.  If it drives an air pump that requires 1 ft-lb to turn, it turns
already, but only at 1 rpm.  You don't pump much air.  You can pump 500 times
the air at 500 rpm, which takes 500 times the HP, but exactly the same
torque.
From: hsc@sybase.com (Howard Cohen)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Woodworking watchwords
Date: 23 Jul 92 22:57:34 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Sybase, Inc.

Watchwords, not.  But when people ask me how I define success, I say:

	"I define success as working all day in my shop without having to 
	 go to a hardware store to buy something."

As you might guess from this, my shop is ... crowded ... with materials.
And, I'm not always as successful as I'd like to be.

	Howard
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  Howard "I wood if I could" Cohen
  hsc@sybase.com  {pacbell,pyramid,sun,{uunet,ucbvax}!mtxinu}!sybase!hsc
  Sybase, Inc.    6475 Christie Avenue, Emeryville, CA 94608, 510-596-3406
From: MOSIER@UNCG.BITNET (Steve Mosier)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: re:Grizzly Tale
Date: 29 Jul 92 12:14:35 GMT
Organization: University of NC at Greensboro
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> Let me give you a vote of confidence.  I think your opinions are worth
> more than $.02.  $0.29 to be exact.

If I had some borderline doubts about the underlying tone of Gary Prekshot's
letter exchange with Grizzly, I no longer do.  Its very clear now.

steve - W3GRG
mosier@uncg.bitnet
mosier@iris.uncg.edu
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 28 Jul 1992 12:24:05 EST
From:         Bob Upson <SVUPSOR@VCCSCENT.BITNET>
Subject:      Retro TS Fences, Summary

CONTENT: Summary/Info
SUMMARY:  Responses to Table-Saw add-on Fence Q's
E-ADDR:   svupsor@vccscent.bitnet
NAME:     Bob Upson
PH/ADDR:  804-736-8484 Rt1 Box 15 Keysville, Va. 23947
PHAX:     804-736-8578
   ************************************************************************
   * I asked the list 1) if the Biesmeyer 'homeshop' were lighter-duty than
   * the 'commercial', 2) if my old unisaw would require drilling to retro-
   * fit, and 3) if listees had a preference between Biesmeyer and Unifence.
   ************************************************************************
    Two respondees, one who owned a biesmeyer h-s 40" and loved it,
one who didn't own but had investigated; #2 pointed out that biesmeyer is
front-table secured only, making it less than ideal for anti-kickback devices.
(*ed. note: this is also true of the unifence).
    1) Yes, Homeshop is lighter (as well as smaller) than Commercial.
2&3) Nobody expressed a preference for a retro-fence, and nobody seemed sure
re: drilling the table.
Thanks much for time and info. Comments welcome. Bob.
'biesmeyer' spelling courtesy of Tools-on-Sale. Flame them, s'il vous plait.
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Wed, 29 Jul 1992 07:44:39 -0800
From:         RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM
Subject:      Re: Cutting sheet goods - best way?
X-To:         WOODWORK%IPFWVM.BITNET@pucc.Princeton.EDU

I do pretty well by having the lumber yard cut 4x8 sheets into pieces just
slightly (1/2" - 1") larger than my plans call for and do the final cutting
on my table saw.

It makes the ply wood easyer to transport too.

                                Ron
From: ron@pilot.njin.net (Ron Natalie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: More on 3-phase power
Date: 28 Jul 92 19:02:38 GMT
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

> OK, what's a SCR and a TRIAC?  What do the acronyms stand for,
> what electrical behavior do they exhibit?

SCR = Silicon Control Rectifier.  Imagine a diode that doesn't conduct
at all until you put a voltage in a third pin and then it does.  Take
two of these in paralell but hooked up with the diode part reversed
from one another and you've got a triac (you wanted it to conduct in
both directions once it is "fired").  It stays conducting for as long
as there is voltge present, when that drops back to zero (120 times
a second for household AC) it shuts off again.

> Also, how are they wired into the 3-phase circuit?

Damned if I know.  The three phase converters I've seen are either
things that use a motor to either generate or flywheel the third phase
or a kludge thing which blasts the third phase to start and then lets
the motor run on one phase.

> Are they rated, like most other components, to handle 220V?

They come with a variety of voltage and current ratings.  You probably
want to use one larger than what you want.  The voltage ratings, like
diodes are PIV, not RMS like 117vac refers to.

> > If you turn off the converter when the current is crossing zero, then
> > there should not be a significant transient introduced into the supply
> > side. 

What the original author here ment to say is "turn on" not turn off
probably.  The way your light dimmer works at home is that it has a
triac that fires at some variable point after the time the line
crosses zero.  The earlier it does, the brighter the light.  However,
triacs respond very quickly, as you get to the 50% point you are
switching from 0 to over 100 volts rather quickly.  This will generate
a big transient and RFI and such.  The common way to diminish this is
to put some inductance in the line to slow this down (crack open your
light dimmer you'll see a coil in there).

-Ron
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 31 Jul 1992 08:08:02 EDT
From:         "Robert J. Milevski" <milevski@PRINCETON.EDU>
Subject:      Local Woodworking Group

Does anyone know of a local woodworking group or groups in the
Princeton, New Jersey area?  Net thanks.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bec@uacsc2.albany.edu
Subject: Re: wiring riddle
Organization: University at Albany, Albany NY 12222
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 92 22:44:37 EDT

In article <WOODWORK%92072307214979@IPFWVM.BITNET>
JM01@SWTEXAS.BITNET writes:
>                                 . . . After purchasing a house, I found the
>four-way switch in my kitchen doesn't work properly. . .
>The two-way switches work with the four-way switch in the "off" position, but
>not with the four-way switch in the "on" position. . .
 
A 4-way switch doesn't really have an OFF and ON position.  It has four
terminals, say A, B, C, D.  In one position, A is connected to C, B to D,
while in the other position, A is connected to D, B to C.  (Sometimes
called a reversing switch.)  If the 3-way switches work if the 4-way is
in one position but not the other, it's almost certainly true that the
4-way is broken.  This is easily and cheaply verified by replacing it and
surely is what I'd try first.
 
(Further discussion probably should be off-line since we're getting a
bit far from woodworking here.)
                                            /b
From: ron@pilot.njin.net (Ron Natalie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: More on 3-phase power
Date: 24 Jul 92 18:16:48 GMT
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

> If you turn off the converter when the current is crossing zero, then
> there should not be a significant transient introduced into the supply
> side.  A proper SCR or TRIAC controller would do that automatically.

Proper or not, a SCR or TRIAC can't shut off excpet at zero.
From: mwr@tridom.uucp (Mark Reardon)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: drawer construction techniques
Date: 29 Jul 92 14:02:07 GMT
Reply-To: mwr@tridom.uucp (Mark Reardon)
Organization: AT&T Tridom; Marietta, Georgia

In article <17015@ulysses.att.com>, smb@ulysses.att.com (Steven Bellovin) writes:
|> I was looking at a chest of drawers in a furniture store the other day, and
|> I saw a construction technique that I hadn't encountered before.  It seems
|> easy enough that I suspect there's something wrong, that I'm overlooking...
|> 
|> Anyway, in this dresser the drawer fronts were joined to the sides by a
|> sliding dovetail.  Much faster than traditional dovetail joints, and it
|> doesn't take a fancy jig.  Also, to my surprise, the back of the drawer
|> was dovetailed to the sides.  I've usually seen dados or finger joints
|> there.
|> 
|> Comments, anyone?

My father calls these sliding dovetails "French Dovetails".
It seems that he saw them in museum furniture pieces in
europe and that is what they were called there.  They are
an easy joint to make fit tight and they don't need clamping
while the glue dries.  Consequently, the french furniture
designers used them quite a bit when most work was done by
hand.

-- 
Mark

---------------------------------------------------------------------
| Mark Reardon           |  AT&T Tridom                             |
| mwr@eng.tridom.com     |  840 Franklin Court                      |
|                        |  Marietta, GA 30067                      |
---------------------------------------------------------------------
From: u5115930@ucsvc.ucs.unimelb.edu.au
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Sleigh/Pencil-post beds
Date: 29 Jul 92 02:54:12 GMT
Organization: The University of Melbourne

Shawn,
Fine Woodworking has had some great articles on sleigh and pencil-post beds.
Here are the references:
  Turner, W. (1991) Building a sleigh bed. FWW 91: pp 46-51
  Becksvoort, C.H. (1989) The pencil-post bed. FWW 76: pp 32-37
  McAlevey, J. (1990) Making a frame and panel bed. FWW 84: pp80-82
The 3rd ref is of course not what you asked for but I've included it because
its a much simpler design, I was able to put it together in a couple of
weekends. It could easily be modified by extending the posts
to make a pencil-post. Rather than buying hook and slot rail to headboard
fasteners I used common adjustable shelving brackets and their rails. Worked a
treat and cost next to nothing.
Good luck with it,
Rick Officer.