HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com (Fred Christiansen)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Shake roof maintenance (and replacement)
Date: 17 Nov 92 17:53:11 GMT
Organization: Motorola Computer Group, RT Software

In article <5860@naucse.cse.nau.edu> rrw@sunset (Bob Wier) writes:
>So, I'm thinking that when I re-roof I might go to one of the
>shake look-alike materials, but which are fireproof.  I've seen
>one type, the "Timberline" series (I forget who make's em) which
>look pretty good, but are somewhat expensive.  Since I'm in a
>national historic district, the appearance is extremely important.
>
>I wonder if anyone has done this recently and if you can make
>recommendation / dis - recommendations on brands.

I just put Elk Prestique I shingles on the house I'm building.  I chose
these over GAF Timberline or GenStar (GS) Architect-80 for appearance
(no fake shake shadows), warranty (Elk's will cover even owner-installed;
the others require a licensed contractor), and reputation (I talked to
several installers).  To be honest, it was pretty much a toss-up.  I could
not find Georgia-Pacific Summit shingles, but they're in the same class.
Elk, GAF, GP, and GS all make 25 yr, 30 yr, and 40 yr transferable
warranty shake-like ("dimensional") shingles.  You would probably prefer
the top of the line.  Don't forget the ridge treatments (Z-Ridge, Dura-Ridge,
et al).

I got quotes from Home Depot and several roofing suppliers and got the
best quote (roof-top delivery incl) from a supplier.
-- 
Fred Christiansen, Motorola, 2900 S Diablo Way, Tempe, AZ 85282  "Canajun, eh?"
fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com  ||  uunet!phx.mcd.mot.com!fredch  ||  +1 602-438-3464
  ".. I have set before you Life and Death, blessing and cursing;  therefore
      choose Life, that both you and your children may live"  Deut 30:19
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: kendall@adobe.com (Janice Kendall)
Subject: Re: HELP! Skunk keeps attacking my house
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 02:20:10 GMT

>> |> In article <1e65a0INNstl@agate.berkeley.edu> stanton@haas.berkeley.edu (Richard Stanton) writes:
>> |> >Every few nights, my house stinks of skunk...


A skunk moved under our house when I was a kid.  I remember we had to be
careful not to make loud, sudden noises because it would trigger an intense
aromatic response from our new housemate.

I think Mom called Animal Control.  They came and set a trap near an opening
they observed into the crawlspace under the house.  They caught a pregnant 
opossum and the neighbor's cat twice.  They never caught the skunk, but 
apparently, s/he got the message and moved on.
   
 Janice Kendall    kendall@adobe.com    ...!{decwrl|sun}!adobe!kendall

      Don't Panic!  Clinton will be our *42*nd President.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: pjh@mccc.edu (Pete Holsberg)
Subject: Re: Re: How to tell a REAL buyer's agent
Organization: The College On The Other Side Of Route One
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 23:14:33 GMT

In article <1e8a5tINN6qg@sixgun.East.Sun.COM> egreen@east.sun.com writes:
=Legally, you are not paying both agents, so you have no control over
=their actions or obligations.  You pay the listing agent.  If that
=agent sells your house, they keep the entire commission.  If another
=agent provides a buyer, your agent can (and will) split the commission
=with them.  The buyer's agent is not working directly for you (although
=in most cases is legally obligated to you, which is why RE is such a
=racket to begin with).

The only "racket" here is the assumption (and we all know what they say
about making assumptions!) that the selling agent works for the buyer.
In NJ (at least), steps are being taken to insure that an agent explain
this to a buyer at their first meeting.

=I said, you pay *your* agent to list and sell your house.  The agent
=furnishing the buyer is paid by your agent.

Actually, the money goes to the broker first and then the agent gets a
cut. For example, a realtor from agency A lists a house for $220,000
and sells it through a realtor from agency B for $200,000. A 6%
commission would be $12000 to the listing broker who splits that --
usually $6000 to the broker of the selling agent. Then each broker
usually pays half to its agent.

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: brokaw@flamingo.weeg.uiowa.edu (Pete Brokaw)
Subject: Re: Comments on hand blenders?
Organization: Weeg Computing Center, University of Iowa, Iowa City, IA, USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 22:28:43 GMT

In article <Bxtp8z.34x@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu>, prange@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Henry Prange) writes:
|> I have a Braun and use it often. It is marvelous for blending flour and
|> water, mixing diet powder drinks, stirring juices. Easy to clean: just
|> put its end in the water and turn it on.
|> 

There must be times when a simple rinse under the tap isn't enough to clean
a hand blender (like after chopping raw meat).  How easy are they to clean
if you really need to dig around?  

Pete
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
                  "The secret to a long life's knowing when it's time to go."
							pete-brokaw@uiowa.edu
							weeg computing center
							   university of iowa
							  iowa city, ia 52242
							       (319) 335-5453
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: lowry@watson.ibm.com (Andy Lowry)
Subject: Re: Getting rid of radio on my phone lines?
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 18:50:42 GMT
Distribution: usa
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center

In article <1992Nov23.150227.14070@miki.pictel.com> dustin@miki.pictel.com (Dustin Clampitt) writes:
 > I get clear and distinct reception of some local radio
 > station on my phone lines.  I've disconnected all internal
 > phone wiring and tested at the junction box, and it's still
 > there.  The phone company said, "find somebody who sells
 > phone stuff and ask for a supressor."  The phone company
 > says it's not their problem.  How supportive.
 > 
 > What can I do?  What can I buy?  Who ya gonna call?  

I had this problem when I installed a new phone on a preexisting and
previously trouble-free phone line a couple of years back.  I called
the phone manufacturer and they sent me a gizmo that I plugged into
the phone jack and the phone plugged into it.  They didn't charge me
for it.  Unfortunately it didn't seem to make any difference at all,
and I chucked it.  But shortly after that the noise went away, for
reasons I can't explain.  

Perhaps you'd have better luck with the gizmo than I did.  It was
probably one of those "suppressors" you mentioned.  I suggest you try
the manufacturer before you go spend money on one, especially if my
experience is any indication of their effectiveness.
--
Andy Lowry, lowry@watson.ibm.com, (914) 784-7925
IBM Research, P.O. Box 704, Yorktown Heights, NY  10598
From: GA.MCL@forsythe.stanford.edu (Mark C. Lawrence)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: How to cut back my heat bill?
Date: 23 Nov 1992 18:04:12 -0800
Organization: Stanford University
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: morrow.stanford.edu

In article <92328.110753F0O@psuvm.psu.edu>,
<F0O@psuvm.psu.edu> writes:
>   On another note, I have an anticipator in my thermostat.  I had heard
>from someone else that the correct range for it was .7, which is what mine
>was set at when I moved in.  But the gas guy checked the current going
>through the furnace, and said the anticipator should be set to .4.  After
>he left, the furnace was coming on more often then when it was set at .7.
>  It would stay on for less periods of time, but come on more often.  I
>didn't think the additional start-ups were good, so I set it back to .7.
>   My question is, what does the anticipator actually do, and is there
>an optimum setting?  And if there is, does this setting save you on your
>heat bill, compared to non-optimum settings?

It anticipates heat from your furnace.  It's just a little resistor, and is
heated by the current flowing thru it, which is the current drawn by the
control valve/relay/etc. in your furnace.  The heat warms your thermostat in
anticipation of the heat from the furnace.  The numbers are the current in
amperes.  For a lower current, you use a higher resistance to get the same
heat, so a lower number means "more heat anticipation" which means "shut the
furnace off sooner".  The reason for having this is that your furnace will
continue to produce some heat after it is shut off, so if you run it until
your thermostat is warm enough your house will be too hot.

I don't think it will have much effect on your heat bill.  Very frequent short
cycles may reduce the life of the furnace, but otherwise it isn't critical.
If the furnace runs a long time and causes unpleasant temperature swings,
adjust the anticipator for shorter cycles.  Otherwise don't worry about it.
From: sasgrw@cumorah.unx.sas.com (Glen R. Walker)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Smoke Detectors from BRK Elec RECALL?
Date: 23 Nov 92 14:19:24 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: SAS Institute Inc.
Originator: sasgrw@cumorah.unx.sas.com


In article <1992Nov19.171442.1631@cbnewsm.cb.att.com>, mks@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (manishkumar.sharma) writes:
|> I just received a recall notice from BRK Electronics (Aurora, IL) that
|> made/supplied the 2 smoke detectors in my house. The recall is not for
|> battery-operated ones, just for those connected to the house wiring.
|> They list some serial numbers and ask that if the ones on my house are one
|> of these, I should send in the enclosed card and they will send in new
|> ones, free. I am then expected to return the recalled detectors to them.
|>
|> I will be opening up my detectors today to check if they were made by BRK.
|>
|> 1. Did any one else get these? I guess this applies to anyone in the
|> country who was supplied detectors by BRK.
|> 2. Did you ask for an get the new ones?
|> 3. Is this another new-fangled scam?
|>
|> Thanks.
|>
|> -Manish Sharma
|>  ...att!trumpet!mks


      I received one also.  The only smoke detector that's attached 
      to my house wiring is one of the square versions.  The recall
      was for a couple of round versions (different serial numbers).

      I've also got the battery-powered versions (I feel safer with
      those since we have power fluctuations and I don't want to 
      depend on whether the power is out or not).

      The recall seems legitimate.


 +---------------------------------------+---------------------------+
 | Glen R. Walker                        |                           |
 | (sasgrw@cumorah.unx.sas.com)          | SAS Institute, Inc.       |
 |                                   |\  | SAS Campus Drive          |
 |         ttt        _/|    |\     o    | Cary, NC 27513-2414       |
 | }----------------=I_ |   o   |\    |\ | (919) 677-8000 ext. 6869  |
 |    (____|||_____)   \|      o     o   |                           |
 |                                       |                           |
 +---------------------------------------+---------------------------+
 | ...and hid up in the hill Cumorah all the records which had been  |
 | entrusted to me...                                                |
 +-------------------------------------------------------------------+
From: samar@convex.csd.uwm.edu (Samar Mukhopadhyay)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Info needed: Once Through Softener
Date: 23 Nov 1992 20:39:17 GMT
Organization: Computing Services Division, University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: 129.89.7.30
Originator: samar@convex.csd.uwm.edu

     We know of the water softeners installed in the basement where the
     softening process is regenerated by using salt. I heard that there
     is a smaller version of this, which is fitted to the tap like a
     filter. No regeneration is done and the filter is thrown away and
     a new one fitted when used up. Main goal is to soften the water
     and/or remove iron.

     Is there any such device? I would appreciate knowing more about 
     this, the makes, and the manufacturers' addresses.

     Thanks a lot

     Samar

From: hmoss@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Howard Moss)
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 23:58:07 GMT
Subject: Re: Toilet leak...
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Rosa, CA
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house

Well, so far it's working... I pulled the tank off the bowl and, not
seeing anything obvious, pulled the bowl out as well. Everything went
smoothly and after trying to "analyze" the toilet and where a 
possible leak could be, I just decided to replace all the replacables
and see what happens. The hardware store (Friedman Bros "If we don't
have it, you don't need it") carried 2 wax rings, 1 with urethane, 1
with only wax. I still don't fully understand the purpose of the 
urethane one, so I chose the regular wax one. It all went smoothly,
though what someone said in one of these responses took me awhile
to realize and that is that the tank-to-bowl bolts have to be  
tightened tightly and evenly. I would tighten one side and get rid
of a leak there, but then a little while later, the other bolt would
leak, and then after that was tightened, the gasket would leak... I
was trying to go easy on the porcelain as I hear that it cracks easy.
     
Well, thanks for all the hints! 

Howard Moss
hmoss@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com
From: stanton@haas.berkeley.edu (Richard Stanton)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Carpet cleaning recommendations wanted
Date: 15 Nov 1992 18:40:05 GMT
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: haas.berkeley.edu

I have several carpets that need serious cleaning, suffering from months
of baby vomit (including a rather delightful green patch following a lunch
of peas). Anyway, I'm wondering what the best way to go would be. Are
the professionals who advertise on those coupons good? Alternatively, what
about a) Renting a machine from Safeway b) Buying a machine for c. $100 from
DAMARK (or the $299 "Big Green Cleaning Machine" advertised on TV). 

How do all these options compare, or am I missing something better?

Also, can I use any/all of these on Oriental rugs? I have two, neither
antiques, but both hand made using vegetable dyes, and I don't want to
damage them.

Thanks for any suggestions

Richard Stanton
From: egreen@east.sun.com (Ed Green - Pixel Cruncher)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: How to tell a REAL buyer's agent
Date: 18 Nov 1992 17:52:50 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, RTP, NC
Distribution: world
Reply-To: egreen@east.sun.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: laser.east.sun.com

In article 29457@tessi.com, allen@tessi.com (Allen Warren) writes:
>
>Have you had a bad experience in buying a home recently?  

Quite the contrary.  I purchased a great house at what I judged to be a
substantial bargan from a FSBO.  Had he tacked 6% onto the price, I
could not have afforded it.  

>You seem
>incredibly hostile concerning realtor's.  

I'm not hostile, I just think RE is a fundamentally a dishonest
business, it's full of incompetents, and they are grossly overpaid.

:^)


---
Ed Green, former Ninjaite |I was drinking last night with a biker,
  Ed.Green@East.Sun.COM   |and I showed him a picture of you.  I said,
DoD #0111  (919)460-8302  |"Go on, get to know her, you'll like her!"
 (The Grateful Dead) -->  |It seemed like the least I could do...

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com (Fred Christiansen)
Subject: Re: Shake roof maintenance (and replacement)
Organization: Motorola Computer Group, RT Software
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 18:37:54 GMT

Honestly, folks, I'm not trying to set the record for the person posting
the most follow-ups to his own posting 8-).

In article <1992Nov19.001616.12831@phx.mcd.mot.com> fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com (Fred Christiansen) writes:
>Elk, GAF Timberline, and GenStar/GS all make 25/30/40 yr transferable
>warranty shake-like ("dimensional") shingles.  You would probably prefer
>the top of the line.  Don't forget the ridge treatments (Z-Ridge, Dura-Ridge).

These I've seen.  I've also seen the Owens-Corning dimensional.  I haven't
seen but know of Georgia-Pacific Summit and CertainTeed's Independence Shangle.
Another option is a treated fiber shingle by Masonite called Woodruff II;
in the picture I saw they seemed to like like cedar shakes.

Another option is the slate shingle look afforded by flat concrete tile
(vs the corrugated Spanish mission tile).
-- 
Fred Christiansen, Motorola, 2900 S Diablo Way, Tempe, AZ 85282  "Canajun, eh?"
fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com  ||  uunet!phx.mcd.mot.com!fredch  ||  +1 602-438-3464
  ".. I have set before you Life and Death, blessing and cursing;  therefore
      choose Life, that both you and your children may live"  Deut 30:19
Xref: sparky misc.consumers.house:14843 sci.physics:19299
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 08:53:34 EST
From: <F0O@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,sci.physics
Subject: How to cut back my heat bill?

Hi netters!

   I live in a trailer which has is only a year old and has double
insulation in it.  I have a Miller propane heat furnace and my stove
is also gas.  Last year, I ended up paying over $600 in gas!  This
seems like *alot* of money to me.  I had someone come over to take a
look, and there are no leaks.
   My question is, will turning my thermostat back to 60 and keeping
it there save me more money then if I would keep it at 72?  I would think
it would, but the person from the gas company said it wouldn't.  This
doesn't make sense to me for the following reason:
   We all know that if you keep you home at a constant temperature and
the outside temperature goes down to say 20 degrees, your furnace will
come on more often then if the outside temperature was 45 degrees.  So
I would think if you cut back your thermostat, this would decrease the
delta between the inside and outside temps and it would take longer for
the inside temp to drop to a point to turn on the thermostat.
   Now, I don't know the physics behind heat transfer, which is why I
cross-posted this to sci.physics.  I'd really like to see some comments
on this topic, since if cutting back doesn't save money, then why do it?


                                                           [Tim]
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (patterson,george r)
Subject: Re: Do I lay floor tile before or after installing kitchen cabinets?
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 92 05:37:08 GMT

In article <1eebcbINNt7@eagle.natinst.com> darrenl@natinst.com (Darren Lilie) writes:
>I will be laying vinyl floor tile in the kitchen which already has all the
>old cabinets ripped out.  I was wondering what to put in first, the floor
>or the cabinets.
>If the floor goes in first it will be easier to install because I wont have to
>cut around the cabinets but the floor may be damaged while I install the  
>cabinets. Also there will be wasted tiles(at 2.49 each) underneath the 
>cabinets.
>I would like to hear from people that have done it either way to help me with
>my decision.

I've done several kitchens both ways, but always with vinyl rather than
ceramic. Given a choice, I always put the vinyl down first to avoid cutting.
Similarly, when I put in a second bath in my house, I put in marble (which
is close to the biggest mistake I ever made), and I put it down first. I
find it makes all the joints look neater.

On the issue of wasted tiles under the cabinets. Why not leave the area under
the cabinets untiled. You can tack down strips of wood the same thickness as
the tile to support the back and joints between cabinets and run the tile
just past the front edge.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
                    | The biggest cause of divorce is marraige. If you
George Patterson -  | never get married, chances are you'll never get
                    | divorced.
                    |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: davidbu@loowit.wr.tek.com (David E. Buxton)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: How to cut back my heat bill?
Date: 23 Nov 92 16:56:50 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Beaverton,  OR.

The heat pump thermostats that I have worked with have two thermostats
that are one or two degrees apart from each other.  The 1st thermostat
turns on the heat pump.  The second one serves as a back-up, and turns
on the electric furnace, which is of course not as efficient under
normal conditions.  So, if you do a 10 degree set back, both thermostats
kick in when the setback period expires.  BUT, it would seem to me
that a "smart" setback thermostat would only turn on the heat-pump
for the first 'x' number of minutes before resorting to the furnace.
Can anyone report on this.
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 11:07:53 EST
From: <F0O@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: How to cut back my heat bill?
Distribution: na
 <1992Nov20.154358.26582@sei.cmu.edu> <1992Nov20.171452.2840@cbfsb.cb.att.com>
 <1992Nov23.134023.2624@cbfsb.cb.att.com>

   I wanted to thank everyone for all the responses.  This has certainly
shown that the gas guy didn't know what he was talking about.
   On another note, I have an anticipator in my thermostat.  I had heard
from someone else that the correct range for it was .7, which is what mine
was set at when I moved in.  But the gas guy checked the current going
through the furnace, and said the anticipator should be set to .4.  After
he left, the furnace was coming on more often then when it was set at .7.
  It would stay on for less periods of time, but come on more often.  I
didn't think the additional start-ups were good, so I set it back to .7.
   My question is, what does the anticipator actually do, and is there
an optimum setting?  And if there is, does this setting save you on your
heat bill, compared to non-optimum settings?

                                                          [Tim]
From: 21329JMK@MSU
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: 92 Re: Security system info wanted
Date: 17 Nov 92 14:32:13 GMT
Organization: Michigan State University

------------------------- Original Article -------------------------

*IF* your handy with tools, install it yourself.  I'm literally finishing
up an installation myself (still have to connect the power and phone
line).  It cost me about $4/window or door, $45 a motion detector, $25 for
a 3' drill bit, $250 for panel, control, siren, battery, and misc.  I had
several rolls of wire, so was able to save say $50 there.  The labor
wasn't that bad, taking about 20 hours total max.  I can choose from a
number of monitoring companies that will "connect" for free and monitor
for $20/month.  My cost is about what the companies want to install a
3 door / 1 motion system no matter what "special" they seem to have at the
minute (lower initial / higher monthly or higher initial / lower monthly),
and I own the equipment

==================================================================8--<
Dave Rotheroe                rotheroe@convex.com              DoD#0045

    What brand of equipment did you use?  Post a parts list please.  Also,
    did you need a special/second phone line?   Thanks.