HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: mouse@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu
Newsgroups: rec.antiques
Subject: Ooooooooh!  "Refrigerator Magnets!"
Date: 15 Apr 92 07:58:49 CDT
Organization: University of Kansas Academic Computing Services

This is to the fellow netter who collects refrigerator-type magnets...
(I'm so sorry, I kept your address but then lost it.)...

There is a huge feature article on "Refrigerator Magnets" in the April
15, 1992, copy of _Antique Trader Weekly_.  You've GOT to get a copy!
It was written for you!  If you go to your nearest antique mall place,
they will likely have it around.  You can at least Xerox a copy if
they won't part with theirs.  

Good luck!

Nancy 

* - * - * - * - * - * - * - * - * - * - * - * - * - * - * - * - * - * - * - *
|  N. L. Sliker, Director/Engineering Computing                             |
*  3043 Learned Hall                                                        *
|  University of Kansas            "Everything goes wrong all the time -    |
*  Lawrence, KS  66045                  What you do is fix it."             *
|  mouse@ukanvax.cc.ukans.edu                     -  Gus Pagonis            |
*  (913) 864-3692                                                           *
|  Disclaimer:  My opinions are my own; nobody else is even interested.     |
* - * - * - * - * - * - * - * - * - * - * - * - * - * - * - * - * - * - * - *
Newsgroups: rec.antiques
From: kbr@cbnews.cb.att.com (kenneth.b.reber)
Subject: Re: Cleaning rusted steel ?
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 12:34:22 GMT


I use a product from the Oakite Company called Ruststripper. It is a powder
mixed with water that makes a caustic solution that only attacks rust; does
not touch the iron base - no matter how long you leave the part in the tank.
(If you're in the Columbus, OH area, I carry the powder. 614 837 9259)

The rust removal works faster if the solution is heated and/or a reverse
low voltage (~2-3 volts) is applied to the part and a cathode (if using a
steel tank like a 55 gallon drum, that can be the cathode).  The solution
works at room temperature just a bit slower.  It also helps to periodically
remove the part and wire brush it to remove the loosened particles.

The parts clean up looking like they're fresh from the manufacturer.

I hesitate using any acid solutions because they will attack the base
material.

In either case care and caution is needed - these cleaning solutions are
DANGEROUS - to skin, eyes, kids and the environment.

There is a franchise company that uses this process called Redi-Strip,
located in many cities; in Columbus OH the name of a similiar operation
is Sunset Strip.

Ken
Newsgroups: rec.antiques
From: parnass@cbnewse.cb.att.com (Bob Parnass, AJ9S)
Subject: Re: Cleaning rusted steel ?
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories, Naperville, IL
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1992 14:31:50 GMT
Summary: Metal Glo polishing paste

In article <6APR199209200691@nssdca.gsfc.nasa.gov>,
g5rsn@nssdca.gsfc.nasa.gov (Robert S. Nerem (Steve)) writes:

> ... Can any of you netters out there give me some advice on
> the easiest way to clean the rust off of these steel parts?


I use "Liquid Wrench" and steel wool to remove rust from steel, but
my wife uses a German-made paste sold in cutlery stores for cleaning
knives. You can buy it under the "Metal Glo" name for $2.99 for a 1.75
ounce tube from:

	Smoky Mountain Knife Works
	PO Box 4430
	Sevierville, TN 37864

-- 
==============================================================================
Bob Parnass, AJ9S - AT&T Bell Laboratories - att!ihlpm!parnass - (708)979-5414
Xref: sparky rec.antiques:614 rec.collecting:3155
From: fitch@lamar.ColoState.EDU (Chris the wonder Scout)
Newsgroups: rec.antiques,rec.collecting
Subject: Auto License Plates for sale, etc.
Summary: don't wanna, but need tuition $
Date: 9 Apr 92 19:40:54 GMT
Organization: Colorado State University, Fort Collins, CO  80523

I am a history major at Colorado State University, and unfortunately, I am
needing to sell off my collection of license plates, in order to pay for
tuition.  I have 800+ plates, from all over the world, 1915- present. The
list is a little long to post over the net, so if you would like a copy, 
please send a .52 Self-addressed stamped envelope to:

Chris Fitch
1430 Columbine Road
Colorado Springs, Colorado
			80907-4708 USA
If you have individual questions (about types, etc), I will take them over the
net.
Yours in Plating,
Chris
From: martha@gvlf7-d.gvl.unisys.com
Newsgroups: rec.antiques
Subject: Brimfield Fair
Date: 13 Apr 92 16:53:39 GMT
Reply-To: martha@gvlf7-d.gvl.unisys.com ()
Distribution: usa
Organization: Paramax Systems, Great Valley Labs, Paoli, Pa


Does anybody know what the May dates are for the Brimfield fair?

Thanks!

Martha H. Sherman
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
I speak only for myself, and sometimes I even wonder about that...
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.antiques
Subject: PAPER CUTS AND PAPERCUTTING PENNSYLVANIA GERMAN
From: HOZ@vm.bgu.ac.il
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1992 16:56:10 GMT
Organization: Bgu University

My wife, Yael Hoz, is studying papercuts from all over the world. She is workin
g on American paprecuts, especially the American Eagle on papercuts. I am tryin
g to reach people who know about papercuts or are practising it themselves. Wil
l be glad to contact you through this channel.  Ron Hoz
Xref: sparky rec.antiques:638 rec.collecting:3289
From: nmr1248@venus.lerc.nasa.gov (NANCY RABEL (KC4IYD))
Newsgroups: rec.antiques,rec.collecting
Subject: Re: lotsa stuff for trade/sale!
Date: 16 Apr 92 12:41:00 GMT
Article-I.D.: venus.16APR199208410185
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <1992Apr10.225555.18846@yuma.acns.colostate.edu>, fitch@lamar.ColoState.EDU (Chris the wonder Scout) writes...
>I COLLECT/TRADE:
>Scout stuff, coins, stamps, some license plates, flags, military insignia,
>NASA insignia
> 
>I HAVE FOR SALE OR TRADE FOR SOMETHING ELSE I'M INTO:
>Australian key fobs, baseball caps, bumper stickers, a lot of license plates,
>comic books, football/sports memorabilia, matchbox cars
>coins, license plates, flags, military insignia, space program insignia,
>police insignia, pen pals
>********************************************************************************

How do you find time to collect all these things? I collect both stamps
and non-sports cards and usually one will suffer when I get heavily 
involved in the other. I also have NASA patches which I kinda collect,
but its more like if I see one that I know I don't have, then I buy it.
Also working full-time and going to school part-time cuts into alot 
of the time that I could spend on collecting. 

So, do you have a database or book where you keep track of all of 
these things? Or are you more of a accumulator of them? Is any one 
area of collecting your favorite? I don't mean to ask so many 
questions but I just find it neat that one person could collect 
so much things in so many different areas. 

I would be interested in trading your space program insignia with 
stamps or buying the insignias. I would also be interested in
a Mets basebasll cap, if you have one.

  Nancy Rabel     .... ..  KC4IYD     *   I don't procrastinate,
  nmr1248@venus.lerc.nasa.gov         *    I just spontaneously
          ^^^^^ or mars or ariel      *    re-organize my time!
From: okunewck@psuvax1.cs.psu.edu (Phil OKunewick)
Newsgroups: rec.antiques
Subject: Re: Cleaning rusted steel ?
Date: 8 Apr 92 19:40:39 GMT
Article-I.D.: cs.q*9H2?8l6
Organization: Random, at best

ccw8u@poe.acc.Virginia.EDU (Carl Christian Wuellner) writes:
>
>One product my parents used to use--interestingly, also German-made--was a
>paste in a tube sold under the brand name Simichrome (my parents used to run
>an antiques shop).  It seemed to be their favorite polish for just about
>any type of metal.

This is available in the U.S. in auto parts stores.  It puts a really nice
finish on things, though I don't know that it'll remove heavy rust too well.

I forget the name of the acid it contains (which means that about 5
people are going to post it soon as they read this).  But it's different
from what's found in most over-the-counter metal polishes.

It comes in tiny toothpaste tubes, but a little bit goes a long way.
I'll agree with their attitude about it being a favorite polish.  I've
had great success with it too.


A caution about polishing antiques: it's not a good habit.

Most polishes contain a corrosion remover, a buffing rouge, and/or a
sealer.  The corrosion remover and rouge both remove a small part of
the surface.  With a lot of metals, the outer layer of corrosion seals
the metal.  (This is true for lead, zinc, and aluminum especially.)
In other words, every time you polish something you wear down the
surface a little more.

Coins especially should never be polished, as their values are
dependant on features that can be easily polished away.
From: nvecchi@boglia.cscs.ch (Nicole Vecchi)
Newsgroups: rec.antiques
Subject: London shops
Date: 15 Apr 92 08:17:50 GMT
Followup-To: nvecchi@cscs.ch
Organization: Centro Svizzero di Calcolo Scientifico, CH-6928 Manno

I'm going to London for a week in early June and
want to browse some antique shops.  I'm specifically
interested in the English arts&crafts period and lighting
fixtures.  Does anyone have recommendations for shops
that have reasonable prices and good "stuff"?

Thanks!
Nicole
From: anders@mentor.cc.purdue.edu (Anders Lund)
Newsgroups: rec.antiques
Subject: Stereoptican found....
Summary: value and cards needed
Date: 13 Apr 92 21:31:16 GMT
Article-I.D.: mentor.45227
Organization: Purdue University Computing Center


   Last weekend I found two stereopticans (circa 1900).  (I believe this is what
they are called)  They are used to look at printed images on cards.  The 
images are off set so that when viewed they appear in 3-D.

The reason I am posting, is I need an approximate value of pieces.  (They both
are in mint condition!).  I am also in need of more cards.  Is there anyone out
there that has cards to sell or know where I can purchase more cards.  This 
is a neat hobby. 

Anders
Newsgroups: rec.antiques
From: mctavish@zeus.UWaterloo.ca
Subject: PIGGY BANK:  Darth Vader , Star Wars
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 13:31:49 GMT

	Anyone know the value of a Darth Vader "piggy bank"? Its about the size  
of a large cabbage; black; with silver trim on the nose; it has a rubber  
stopper on the bottom; and I think it says something like the following : "   
Star Wars Copyright 1976 Twentieth Century Fox Limited " on the bottom.
Newsgroups: rec.antiques
From: jim@doink.b23b.ingr.com (James B. Reed)
Subject: Re: Stereoptican found....
Reply-To: jimreed@b23b.ingr.com
Organization: Intergraph Corporation, Huntsville, AL.
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 16:05:58 GMT

In article <john_newman.41@qmcc.curtin.edu.au>, john_newman@qmcc.curtin.edu.au (John Newman) writes:
|> These sound like the standard hand-held stereo viewers which 
|> have been around since about 1860. In Australia they vary in
|> value between A$50 to A$150 depending on condition and number of
|> stereo photos included.  (A$1 = US75c)

I think they may be a little cheaper here in the US.  My parents
recently bought one in working condition at the bottom of your range.
Photos seem to run in $1 to $2 range (of course it varies depending
on the photo.

|> I doubt if you could still buy stereo photos to fit the older
|> viewers, but if you are really keen, get a stereo camera and
|> make your own. In colour too!

If you're handy with a camera (and careful) you can make your own.
First decide what you want a picture of (e.g. your house).  Take
two pictures with the camera shifted sideways a few inches between
the pictures (to get a slightly different view for each eye).
After the pictures are developed you may need to fiddle with them
a little to get the positioned correctly on a card.  I have not
done this myself (yet), but I've seen it done, the results can
be pretty good.

Note that with a single non-stereo camera the subject has to
remain motionless and outdoors, wind can be a problem.

-- 
James B. Reed                | If at first you don't succeed,
DAZIX, An Intergraph Company | Find out why,
jimreed@b23b.ingr.com        | **THEN** try again.
(205) 730-8874               |
Newsgroups: rec.antiques
From: lmh@iago.caltech.edu (Henling, Lawrence M.)
Subject: Re: Cleaning rusted steel ?
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.40    
Organization: California Institute of Technology
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1992 05:28:00 GMT

In article <?v2H##ck6@cs.psu.edu>, okunewck@psuvax1.cs.psu.edu (Phil OKunewick) writes...
>rbb@cs.brown.edu (Robert Baynes) writes:
>>
>>I spent a LOT of time in the Navy. When we needed something to
>>clean rust we used Coca Cola. It is cheap and seems to work
>>on most items very well....
> 
>   But seriously, Coca Cola is carbonic acid.  So is seltzer water.
>Carbon Dioxide dissolved in water is acidic.  It's a relatively mild
>acid, but just about any acid will remove rust.  Vinegar works too.
> 
 Coca Cola also contains phosphoric acid, the active constituent in naval jelly
and some other products.

[ObAntique: In early soda fountains, 'phosphates' were available. Were these
named for phosphoric acid content?]

larry henling  lmh@shakes.caltech.edu
Newsgroups: rec.antiques
From: horne@birch35.cray.com (Billy Jean Horne)
Subject: Antique Chess Sets
Originator: horne@birch35
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 8 Apr 92 07:53:56 CDT


My husband collects Chess sets.  We have tried 
unsuccessfully to find a place in the Minnesota
area where we can have them appraised for insurance
purposes.  They are primarily hand carved ivory
sets - OLD ivory that came out of China prior to
WWII, no new ivory!  Anyone have any leads?
Appreciate any help.
This is my third attempt to get this posted, appears
we can read the thread but not post.  Would
appreciate knowing if this gets through.
B.J.Horne
horne@cray.com

Newsgroups: rec.antiques
From: robie@umbc4.umbc.edu (Mr. William Robie; POSI (GRAD))
Subject: Re: Cleaning rusted steel ?
Organization: University of Maryland Baltimore Campus, Academic Computing Services
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 07:42:39 GMT

Just a comment or two for people who might be considering ways to remove
rust from an antique:

If what you have is not especially valuable, then use steel wool, emory
cloth, or whatever you heart desires.

If it is something you wish to do with a reasonable amount of care, use
*very* fine emory cloth (the main ingredient is labor) and, when you have
the majority of the rust off, treat the metal with phosphoric acid (you
can get this at an automotive paint store - follow directions on the bottle - 
it usually comes under names like Met-L-Prep).  After the rust has been etched
out, treat the clean, bare metal with a VERY light coating of Zinc Chromate
(PP&G stores can get this in spray cans - remember that it is NOT a paint, but
is a metal treatment. It comes out very thin, so don't try to "paint" the
metal with it to the point that it covers the metal entirely).  Then you can
paint over with any kind of good paint you want (don't bother to use
RustOleum - it isn't nearly as good as the zinc chromate).

For very rare, or otherwise valuable corroded metal, bead blast it with
45# of air pressure, using glass microsphere "beads", then use dilute
phosphoric, zinc chromate, etc..

If the rusted metal is an artifact that you got while scuba diving somewhere,
PUT IT BACK!!  Shame on you!  Leave it where you found it, and let the
state archaeologist know where/what you found.  If it is something that is
truly old (say, ~100 years, or more), it will just turn to powder after it sits
on your mantle for awhile.  Conservation of such materials takes a long time, 
and requires electrolytic reversal.

Newsgroups: rec.antiques
From: rbb@cs.brown.edu (Robert Baynes)
Subject: Re: Cleaning rusted steel ?
Organization: Brown Computer Science Dept.
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1992 15:14:31 GMT

In article <6APR199209200691@nssdca.gsfc.nasa.gov>, g5rsn@nssdca.gsfc.nasa.gov (Robert S. Nerem (Steve)) writes:
|> I just bought an antique sled. It is all wood except for the steel 
|> runners and a few steel braces. The steel is quite rusted, so I
|> plan to remove the steel parts and clean them. My problem is, I
|> don't know how! I've cleaned up brass before, but steel is new
|> for me. Can any of you netters out there give me some advice on
|> the easiest way to clean the rust off of these steel parts?
|> 
|> Thanks!
|>                   Steve Nerem
|> 

I spent a LOT of time in the Navy. When we needed something to
clean rust we used Coca Cola. It is cheap and seems to work
on most items very well....

Bob Baynes
-- 

Newsgroups: rec.antiques
From: lane@sumex-aim.stanford.edu (Christopher Lane)
Subject: Re: Stereoptican found....
Reply-To: lane@sumex-aim.stanford.edu (Christopher Lane)
Organization: Stanford University, California, USA
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 16:30:55 GMT

> Last weekend I found two stereopticans (circa 1900).  (I believe this is what
> they are called)

This is debated by 3D enthusiasts -- the generally accepted term for the type  
of viewer you're talking about is 'stereoscope'.

> I need an approximate value of pieces.

The range I usually see for mint condition viewers is about $75 to $125,  
similar to John Newman's estimate.  Non-mint viewers can be had for as little  
as $25 at NSA conventions.

> Is there anyone out there that has cards to sell or know where I can
> purchase more cards.

There are used stereo card auctions conducted on a bi-monthly basis in the  
advertising materials in the National Stereoscopic Society's (NSA) magazine  
StereoWorld.  They can also be found in most antique stores since such an  
incredible number were produced.  The more common photographic cards run $1 to  
$3 and rare subjects run $5 on up.  Common lithographs run about $0.50.

- Christopher
Newsgroups: rec.antiques
From: john_newman@qmcc.curtin.edu.au (John Newman)
Subject: Re: Stereoptican found....
Summary: value and cards needed
Organization: Computing Centre, Curtin University, Perth, Western Australia
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 03:28:14 GMT

In article  anders@mentor.cc.purdue.edu (Anders 
Lund) writes:


>   Last weekend I found two stereopticans (circa 1900).  (I believe this is what
>they are called)  They are used to look at printed images on cards.  The 
>images are off set so that when viewed they appear in 3-D.

>The reason I am posting, is I need an approximate value of pieces.  (They both
>are in mint condition!).  I am also in need of more cards.  Is there anyone out
>there that has cards to sell or know where I can purchase more cards.  This 
>is a neat hobby. 


These sound like the standard hand-held stereo viewers which 
have been around since about 1860. In Australia they vary in
value between A$50 to A$150 depending on condition and number of
stereo photos included.  (A$1 = US75c)

I have a number of them, including some larger table-top models.

The modern version of course is the Viewmaster.

I doubt if you could still buy stereo photos to fit the older
viewers, but if you are really keen, get a stereo camera and
make your own. In colour too!

Welcome to the 3D-fanatics club.

John D.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\ 
\  John Newman               Internet:John_Newman@QMCC.curtin.edu.au     /
/  Computing Centre,         "There is less to this than meets the eye." \
\  Curtin University,                - Tallulah Bankhead                 /
/  Perth,  Western Australia                                             \
\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/
From: boebert@sctc.com (Earl Boebert)
Newsgroups: rec.antiques
Subject: Re: Cleaning rusted steel ?
Date: 7 Apr 92 04:16:18 GMT
Article-I.D.: sctc.1992Apr7.041618.23540
Organization: SCTC

g5rsn@nssdca.gsfc.nasa.gov (Robert S. Nerem (Steve)) writes:

>I just bought an antique sled. It is all wood except for the steel 
>runners and a few steel braces. The steel is quite rusted, so I
>plan to remove the steel parts and clean them. My problem is, I
>don't know how! I've cleaned up brass before, but steel is new
>for me. Can any of you netters out there give me some advice on
>the easiest way to clean the rust off of these steel parts?

The rust remover sold by Brookstone in concentrate form is effective
and can be mixed to varying strengths.  Remove the loose rust with a
wire brush and then soak in the rust removing solution, checking every
20 min or so to see how it's going.  Don't oversoak or you'll pit and
discolor the metal.

Earl
Organization: Doctoral student, Industrial Administration, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.gambling
Date: Mon,  6 Apr 1992 15:26:55 -0400 
From: David Goldreich <dg10+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Stardust Robbery

Just read the following off of the Dow Jones News Service.  A high
expected value, high variance approach to making money in a casino.
No counting required.
Were there any rec.gamblers around at the time?

ARMED DUO STEALS $1 MILLION FROM LAS VEGAS' STARDUST HOTEL
    
    Las Vegas - Robbers escaped with an estimated $1 million in
cash and checks Monday in a daring heist of a resort on the strip.
    Gamblers at the Stardust Hotel ran for exits or hid behind tables
as two armed men ignited smoke bombs.
    They then grabbed a guard as he carried a satchel of cash and 
checks from the casino cage to a waiting armored car.
    Stardust spokeswoman Kathy Espin estimated the loss at "approximately
$1 million."  Las Vegas Metro Police earlier described the loss as
"substantial."
    Espin said the money technically belonged to Loomis Armored Inc.,
the armored car company, since the guard had signed for the money.
    No injuries were reported, although several customers complained
of inhaling the smoke that drifted through the sprawling casino.



Newsgroups: rec.gambling
From: cheese@next05wor.wam.umd.edu (Jason Steinhorn)
Subject: Re: Blackjack strategy
Organization: Workstations at Maryland, University of Maryland, College Park
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1992 16:13:50 GMT

In article <1992Apr17.010500.5856@leland.Stanford.EDU>  
rishi@leland.Stanford.EDU (Rishi Varma) writes:
> Just doing a survey...assuming you can't count worth shit...how many of  
> you would draw a card in the following situations:
> 
> i) You have a 16 (3 or more cards) and dealer shows 10.
> ii) You have a 12 and dealer shows 5.
> iii) You have a 17 (3 or more cards) and dealer shows A.
> 
> Thanks.

I think that the net is a bad place to ask these questions due to the fact  
that most of the blackjack players who read this board at least know basic  
strategy, and it's hard to tell (at least for me) what I would do had I  
not learned basic.  Plus, please realize, you don't have to count cards to  
know what the most advantageous (for the most part) play would be in any  
of these situations.
I will attempt to answer these questions based on my observations of  
players who do not seem to play according to Basic Strategy.

i) about 50/50.  Many players will go by past experience and/or what the  
last few cards played were.
ii) Most players seem to realize this is a stand situation (mostly because  
of others at the table getting upset when this hand is hit.)
iii) Almost all players will stand with this hand, even most counters when  
they know they should hit will stand, due to the fact that it can draw  
lots of attention from the pit.


    ____  _                                   
   (      \)     ___   ___         ___             Jason Steinhorn
    \      \____ \__)  \__)   /\   \__)         University of Maryland         
     \____/ \   \/\____/\____/ _)__/\____         cheese@wam.umd.edu