HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: krc@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (kenton.cabiness)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: what is carburetor 'hot soak'
Date: 23 Jul 92 15:14:12 GMT
Article-I.D.: cbnewsd.1992Jul23.151412.28601
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T

In article <1992Jul15.054127.7388@fivegl.co.nz> derek@fivegl.co.nz (Derek Tearne) writes:
>>In some cars, hot soak was enough to actually boil gas in the
>>carburator and is the reason some cars run the radiator fan after the
>>engine is shut off.
>
>I have always wondered how this can cool the engine succesfully?  The engine
>is off so there is no water pump to move the coolant around the system and 
>the pump may act as a barrier to convection within the engine.  I can
>see that it would cool the water in the radiator (most of the coolant) and 
>stop the cap blowing, but not how it would cool the engine.  
>

I can attest to this cooling the engine down (or at least it seemed
like it to me).  In the early stages of the re-build of my '74 'vette,
I did not have a mechanical fan (the previous owner threw it away along
with many other "essential" parts, but that's another story), so I installed
the biggest, baddest electric fan I could find (the "Black Max" I believe it
was).  It was thermostatically controlled by a thermostat that was in
contact with the radiator core.  I connected it to a supply that was not
switched.  Upon shut down, even if it was not running at the time, it would
run for some period of time, shut off, come back on, etc.  Each cycle, the
amount of time on became less and the amount off more, until it remained off.
I account this to the cooling of the block by the convection of the water
in the system.  I agree that it could have just been cooling the radiator,
but it seemed to run more than would be required to cool it IMHO.  This
worked fine at idle, but with the design of the body, the fan could not
handle the cooling demands at crusing speeds.  This must be about the only
car that does not seem to get a natural cooling effect from the car moving.
I replaced the electric with a HD flex fan, now it never gets warmer than
the themostat rating (Anyone need a very good condition electric fan?)

Kenton Cabiness
AT&T Bell Labs
krc@ihlpe.att.com
From: gss@btcase.bt.co.uk (Graham Sewell)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Starting out?
Date: 27 Jul 92 09:12:25 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: British Telecom, Lion House, London.

agrawal@lipari.usc.edu (Amitabh Agrawal) writes:


>Hi,

>I have a 84 Mazda GLC Dlx (83K) and was thinking of doing most of the
>work on the car myself. So far I have virtually no experience with
>cars so needed some advice as to how difficult/time consuming this is?

>What are the minimum tools that I need to be able to start working on
>the car? Should I buy the tools as I need or is there a minimum tool
>box that I should get? Which is the best (cost effective) tool box to
>get? 

>I have the Hayne's Mazda book(I think). Is there some other book that
>I should buy? What is a good book to understand the basics of the
>various subsystems of car (e.g. how does an automatic transmission
>work).

>I was thinking of changing the engine oil/filter by myself next
>weekend. Can I screw it up in a big way? 

>Thanks a million

Amitabh Agrawal,

As you have a copy of the Haynes manual, I am assuming that you live in
the UK.  If that is the case, a good book on general theory of cars is
the AA Book Of The Car.

As you an oil change, the basic tools are a spanner to remove the sump
plug, and a filter wrench for the obvious purpose.  One precaution,
don't lose the washer that fits on the sump plug and do not overtighten
the plug when you finish.  The filter should only be put on hand-tight
(ie do not try to use any tools to tighten further), and the seal on the
filter is usually smeared with a little oil before replacing to improve 
the seal.

I hope this helps.


-- 
Graham Sewell                          Tel   +44 71 728 4851
Unix TP and Database Unit              Fax   +44 71 728 4883
PP506, Lion House, 72-75 Red Lion St, LONDON. WC1R 4RT
gss@btcase.bt.co.uk
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: Rodney Weir <rjw@softserver.canberra.edu.au>
Subject: Torque, Horsepower and Brake Horsepower
Organization: University of canberra
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1a2
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 92 06:14:52 GMT

Can someone please explain the differences between torque, horsepower and
brake horsepower.  I know this has been covered before but I have never
really seen a clear, understandable explanation.  Also, what does a
torque curve represent and which type is best.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jukorhonen@ntc01.tele.nokia.fi
Subject: WANTED: OPEL GT AND OPEL PARTS
Organization: Nokia Telecommunications.
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 04:26:40 GMT


HELLO !

I am still looking for Opel GT. I am trying to find such car and bring in
Finnland when car's age goes over 25 year. After that happends, you have to
pay only 60 % different taxes of cars price. First model is in 1968, but there
are only 500 built. In 1969 they have built 30000 or something. So If You know
car like that please answer this newsgroup.


I'm also interesting any place where can find spare parts in OPEL Kadett LS 
Coupe '68 and OPEL Kadett L Rallye '67.

JUKKA

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: shoppa@erin.caltech.edu (TIM SHOPPA)
Subject: Aftermarket tinting films?
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: California Institute of Technology
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 1992 22:54:00 GMT

Hello,
	I just got a new car and was thinking about adding some tinting to
the windows with tinting films from Pep Boys (I think the brand is Gila).
The instructions say the films go on the inside of the windows.  Does anyone
have any experience with this stuff?  Is it removable by anything short of
scraping?  Will it last 5-10 years?
						Thanks,
						Tim (Shoppa@erin.caltech.edu)
P.S.  Yes, I already know the CA laws on tinting...
From: mperron@mother.bates.edu (Mike Perron)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Miles Per Gallona
Keywords: Miles Per Gallon Chevy 250 6 cylinder
Date: 24 Jul 92 13:05:44 GMT
Organization: Bates College, Lewiston, ME


	Having gone to 3 mechanics, spending lots of money, and getting no 
results, I rebuilt my carbuerator.  It still hesitates on acceleration but
I am used to stuttering my foot on the pedal, I could live with th..th..attt!

       My question is about Gas Mileage on one of these 6 cylinder inline chevy
engines (nova, in my case).  I am only getting 12 miles per gallon.  I should 
note I do have Air conditioning.  I never use it though yet the belt is attachedWould removing the belt improve my MPG ?  And second what kind of Mileage shouldI expect from this car? 

	I am planning to replace the rochester carb with a Holley replacement.
this was recommended by many of you on this group.  They stated that these 
rochester carb's were well known for dead spots or hesitation.  Have any of you
noticed any significant gains in MPG after replacing an old carbuerator.

Thanks for all your help!

Internet, all you want and a whole lot More....(FOR LESS!)
From: borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 14:52:37 GMT
Subject: Re: backup lights on audi 5000S
Organization: Hewlett Packard Company, Spokane, Wa.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

In rec.autos.tech, tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen) writes:

>well, i just discovered that the car's backup lights are on
>whenever the parking lights or headlights are on.  doesn't matter
>whether it's in reverse or neutral.  pretty annoying.
>has anybody run into this before?  on a related note, where can i
>find a manual for this car?  i've never seen a chilton's for
>the '86 5000S.  since the car is 6 years old, i'd rather not
>ay the dealer megabucks to fix this.

If the lights seems to be somewhat dim, it could be that you have a bad
ground in the taillight assembly.  Check to make sure that the ground
wires are making good contact.

If the lights are full brightness, then the insulation between the wires
for the taillights and the backup lights is bad.  Good luck finding it.


Donald Borowski    WA6OMI    Hewlett-Packard, Spokane Division
"Angels are able to fly because they take themselves so lightly."
                                       -G.K. Chesterton

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: don@q-aais.navo.navy.mil (Don Newcomb)
Subject: '81 Champ Ignition Problems
Nntp-Posting-Host-[nntpd-1689]: q-aais.navo.navy.mil
Keywords:  plymouth electronic ignition module mitsubishi
Reply-To: newcomb@navo.navy.mil (Don Newcomb)
Organization: U.S. Naval Oceanographic Office
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 14:14:21 GMT

My '81 Plymouth Champ has been exhibiting a strange behavior.
A few days back it lost power but would run fine in neutral.
I died once or twice at a stop light and missed a little. I
figured "Check the easy things first" and added a fuel drier
(isopropal) and checked the distributer cap for water. 

Yesterday when I went out to go to work, the car would not start.
Cranked fine, just would not fire. I checked and found no spark
at the coil. Changed the coil with a spare I have. No luck.
Bummed a ride to work.

That evening it still had no spark. I checked to make sure the rotor
was turning (timing belt & distributor shaft OK). I then took
out the ignition module and checked the induction coil resistance
(0.988 ohm). Then tested the module as shown in my manual with
two batteries and a light bulb. At first, it checked OK. Then
it seemed to quit working. I called the auto parts place and they
said it cost $45.00. I decided to check it again. It tested OK
for as long as I wanted to sit there tapping that contact on the
battery. I put the distributor back together and the car started
on the first crank. Drove around the neighborhood for about an hour
with no trouble.

Question: Does it sound like the ignition module is going bad or
did it just have dirty contacts? Could it be something else?

The car has 171K miles.


*******************************************************************
* Donald R. Newcomb                * Views expressed are strictly *
* U.S. Naval Oceanographic Office  * those of the author. Mention *
* Stennis Space Center, MS 39522   * of commercial products or    *
* newcomb@navo.navy.mil            * organizations in no way      *
* Phone (601) 688-5998             * constitutes an endorsement.  *
*******************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: eur@dutncp2.tn.tudelft.nl (Eur van Andel)
Subject: Re: Brake Peddle problem.
Organisation: TU Delft, The Netherlands
Organization: Delft University of Technology
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 11:33:53 GMT

In <1992Jul29.121354.27832@jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca> leath@atlas.cs.upei.ca (Stephen Leath) writes:

>The brake peddle on my 85 Dodge Caravan stops after being depressed about 1
>inch. It is like hitting a steel wall. THe pads are new the rotors have been
Strange. How do the brakes work? Good? Don't worry then.
A very good working brake system should have a hard pedal touch.
Not as hard as a steel wall, though. 

If your brakes work lousy, then your master cylinder might be damaged badly.

>refaced and the calipers have been checked, any suggestions ? What would be
>the symptoms of air in the brake lines ?

Sponginess of your pedal, definitely NOT hard. 


If you loosen one of your bleeding valves, then you MUST be able to put
your pedal to the floor. If that is not possible, either your master
cylinder is very damaged, or there is a brick under your pedal.

eur

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: fitchitt@wam.umd.edu ()
Subject: Re: What does GT mean in all these sports models ?
Organization: University of Maryland, College Park
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 19:20:30 GMT

In article <64532@hydra.gatech.EDU> gt0963d@prism.gatech.EDU (Deeptendu Majumder) writes:
>The subject line says it all :-)
>
>thanks
>d.
>-- 
>------
>"Like a harsh neon streaking  through the velvet darkness 
>the whetted knife of Life tore its path through her Dreams"

Traditionally, its stands for Grand Touring, although I'm not sure some
of the Automanufacturers know that, or think anyone else does.

Typically GT class cars (in IMSA and just called GT) are heavier cars, that
have lots of power as well, so they aren't really "sports" cars, but cars
ment for moving fast for a while comfortably.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk (Codesmiths)
Subject: Re: head gasket on a taurus
Cc: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Reply-To: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 23:47:44 +0000


> I am about to replace the head gasket on my '86 Ford Taurus 2.5L engine.
> My question is: Torque the gasket once, or should I slack the bolts at some
> interval, then re-torque them.


Probably neither !

I don't know that engine, but you seem to have a misunderstanding
about re-torqueing head bolts. It's normal practice to re-torque
after about 500 miles, but this just involves tightening the bolts up
further, *not* slackening them first.

A manual will quote the correct torque figures.
From: lihan@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Bruce G. Bostwick)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Charging A/C with Freon
Date: 21 Jul 92 12:24:25 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin, Austin TX

In article <1992Jul20.153331.24083@bnr.ca> Peon w/o Email priv (Eric Youngblood) writes:

>P.S. "In December of 1991 Northern Telecom became the first global
>      telecommunications company in the world to eliminate chlorfluorcarbon
>      (CFC-113) solvents from its manufacturing operation."

Speaking of which, are ALL CFC's ozone-killers or just the ones with
chlorine in them?  I would imagine the pure flourocarbons (like CFC-14
which is pure perflouromethane) could be called into service as
refrigerants with very little industry hassle or cost, and a BIG
source of upper-atmosphere chlorine monoxide would be removed..  any
thoughts, y'all?

-- 
<BGB>
lihan@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu        /     "I can't complain,
(really Bruce Bostwick)        /   but sometimes I still do"
from the great state of TEXAS /         --Joe Walsh--
From: maral@repare.EBay.Sun.COM
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: checking spark
Date: 21 Jul 1992 21:56:16 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Distribution: usa
Reply-To: maral@repare.EBay.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: repare.ebay.sun.com

What is the best way (safest as well) to check for spark if one does
not have a timing light?  I just want to verify I have spark coming
from my distributor.  

Thanks
From: clone@west.darkside.com (Clone)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Shocking car
Date: 22 Jul 92 05:19:40 GMT
Organization: The Dark Side of the Moon +1 408 245 SPAM

I own an '89 Hyundai Sonata GLS. I have had almost no trouble with it and 
have put almost 100k on it. However, a few months ago I started to get 
shocked every or every other time I got out of my car. Static that had 
built up while I drove would discharge as soon as I grabbed the door to 
close it. I would only get shocked if I had a foot on the ground, thus 
giving the static ground. A few weeks ago it stopped. My question is why 
did it start and then stop? Thanx in advance...Jason.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: tr@samadams.princeton.edu (Tom Reingold)
Subject: Re: Starting out?
Organization: Noo Joizy, USA
Distribution: rec
Date: 28 Jul 92 01:30:34 GMT

gss@btcase.bt.co.uk (Graham Sewell) writes:

$ As you have a copy of the Haynes manual, I am assuming that you live in
$ the UK.  If that is the case, a good book on general theory of cars is
$ the AA Book Of The Car.
$ [...]

Amit posted from a Los Angeles (USA) site.  We can get Haynes manuals
here in the USA.  In fact, I have a Haynes manual that was written in
Britain for the 1980-1983 US-and-Canada-only Nissan 200SX model.
Apparently, Haynes sell enough volumes here to justify this cost.
--
        Tom Reingold
        tr@samadams.princeton.edu  OR  ...!princeton!samadams!tr
        "Warning: Do not drive with Auto-Shade in place.  Remove
        from windshield before starting ignition."
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: andy@b30.ingr.com (Andrew Brezinski)
Subject: Re: What does GT mean in all these sports models ?
Organization: Intergraph
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 20:22:23 GMT

In article <64532@hydra.gatech.EDU> gt0963d@prism.gatech.EDU (Deeptendu Majumder) writes:
>The subject line says it all :-)
>
>thanks
>d.
>-- 
>------
>"Like a harsh neon streaking  through the velvet darkness 
>the whetted knife of Life tore its path through her Dreams"

I believe it stands for Grand Touring or (the French) Gran Touring.
In any event, I think the meaning has been lost and now refers to the
"sport" version of the car.

Andy Brezinski
Intergraph Corporation
Huntsville, AL 35894-0001

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: reuse radiator coolant?
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 92 06:48:53 GMT

rakoczynskij@gtephx.UUCP (Jurek Rakoczynski) writes:
: 
: In article <75984@ut-emx.uucp>, lihan@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Bruce G. Bostwick) writes:
: 
: Questions and answers about old antifreese deleted.
: 
: > Spend the extra money and get new antifreeze -- get good stuff too
: > even if it costs more.  Your engine is worth the $10-15 for a bottle
: > of good stuff which in a 50:50 mix should give you a fill and some
: > left over to carry in the trunk in case of an emergency.
: 
: What do you consider "good stuff"?  I hope it's more than just $.  
: 
The SAAB dealer who I go to for my warranty stuff uses European antifreeze,
I believe he gets it thru BMW.  The stuff is BLUE, not green.  As to what
the difference is, I was told, but don't recall exactly, other than that it
goes for about $15.00/gallon and they STRONGLY reccomend it.  Note that I
don't feel this is just a case of the dealer trying to pull the wool over
my eyes, as they are, I feel, above that.  It was something about different
additive formulations & better corrosion protection.  As somebody mentioned
elsewhere, SAABs have been known to clog up due to the VERY narrow
passages in the radiators/heater cores (better heat transfer, y'know).

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - you get what you pay for; you pay (and pay, and pay) for what you get.
hinz@picard.med.ge.com


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jbm@eos.arc.nasa.gov (Jeffrey Mulligan)
Subject: Re: Starting out?
Organization: NASA Ames Research Center
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 20:06:27 GMT

dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk (Codesmiths) writes:

Agred with most everything, but not

>Set of cheap screwdrivers, varying sizes

Cheap screwdrivers are fine for opening cans of paint.
However, the metal they are made from is softer than many screws.
Having tools that self-destruct the first time you need
to put some muscle on them is worse than having no tools, because
you mistakenly think that you have a capability, then you get stuck
bicycling to the hardware store in the middle of a disassembly.

-- 

	Jeff Mulligan (jbm@eos.arc.nasa.gov)
	NASA/Ames Research Ctr., Mail Stop 262-2, Moffett Field CA, 94035
	(415) 604-3745
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: johnson@wrs.com (David Johnson)
Subject: Re: J B Weld?
Keywords: J B Weld
Organization: Wind River Systems, Inc.
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 01:29:11 GMT

ward@m.cs.uiuc.edu (Christ Ward) writes:

>Yesterday I fixed my bicycles headset with this J B Weld stuff.
>It seems to have worked (I won't know for a long time if it really worked).
>I'm wandering if anybody out there has used this stuff as they claim it can 
>be used...i.e. to fix tractor axles, the inside of an engine, or any of their
>increadible claims.  I used it because AFOM swears by the strange goo.

Best stuff in the world! Used it once to fix a torn out front suspension mount
out of my rusty 911. "What's so big about that!" you say? Well, I was at an
Auto-X, and after the stuff set, I went back out and raced the whole day
with nary a problem (you should see the inside front wheel off the ground
about 8 inches and then come crashing down when I reversed steering inputs:-0

Gota Luv that JB:-)

DAVE (johnson@wrs.com)

P.S. Due to the severity of the rust problem, I left the stuff holding on
my front suspension and I've never had a problem =8-)
From: brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: What does GT mean in all these sports models ?
Summary: touring vs. grand touring vs. gran turismo...
Date: 29 Jul 92 14:29:35 GMT
Organization: Center for Microelectronics, MCNC; RTP, NC

In article <1992Jul28.175753.3030@titan.ksc.nasa.gov>, myjak@titan.ksc.nasa.gov (Michael D. Myjak) writes:
> GUYNN, RICHARD CARL (rcg1597@zeus.tamu.edu) writes:
> > 	The "GT" [...] originates from the Italian phrase "Gran Turismo"
> > which was meant to signify a vehicle that was of the high
> > performance category that could also serve as a touring car.  [...]
> 
> right..
> 
> > This is usually reserved for hard-top vehicles.  [...]
> 
> When cars were young, in the days of your grandparents before there
> ever was a "hard top" model, there were touring cars. I have never
> heard that the designation GT only applied to hardtop vehicles.
> 
> Can anybody else either confirm or deny this?

The touring cars of old (American, pre 1930 or so) were an "open" car or
convertible car. At this point in time "closed" or hard topped cars were in 
the minority, especially before 1920. Touring cars were also called roadsters,
phaetons, etc. depending on the body style. These weren't sporty cars, just
everyday cars.

The GT "gran turismo" was defined in a previous posting. The Italian 
connotation of "touring" appears to be ripsnorting down the highway in an 
unofficial race, as opposed to "touring" done by busloads of senior citizens
visiting Italy. :-)

Gran turismo was semi-translated to "grand touring" for us English speaking
folks. At one point, this meant the car was some sort of high performance
vehicle. Sometime in the '70s this degenerated to an ordinary sporty looking
car endowed with lots of tacky decals, no particular performance, and an
inflated price tag :-(

 
Ted Brooks
 ______________________________________________________________________
| Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are my own, and do not reflect    |
| those of my employer. Advice is free, but you get what you pay for.  |
|                               ________                               |
|                         _____|  1955  |_______                       |
|                        /      Chevrolet      /                       |
|                       /______  BelAir  _____/                        |
|                              |________|                              |
|______________________________________________________________________|
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: R1004@vmcms.csuohio.edu
Subject: Re: HELP!! - '65 Olds 442
Organization: CSU
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 13:40:07 GMT

 
     This sound funny to me.  You shouldn't have very much trouble
finding coil springs for that car.  That's the nice part of all those
"genuine GM parts" -> they went into A LOT of cars!
 
Find an auto parts store which carries MOOG suspension parts,  They
should be able to fix you up.  A pair of springs for my '67
Chevelle cost me $48.00 a few years back.
 
    Inspect you suspect spring, it could be cracked even if it
has not seperated - replace it.
 
Lastly, always replace springs / shocks in pairs
 
Good Luck!
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Martel               |
bob2@cua3.csuohio.edu    |  Lady luck must have been a wonderful girl
ab556@cwns2.ins.cwru.edu |    -She's never been a friend of mine!
                         |                        Alan Parsons Project
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Martel               |
bob2@cua3.csuohio.edu    |  Lady luck must have been a wonderful girl
ab556@cwns2.ins.cwru.edu |    -She's never been a friend of mine!
                         |                        Alan Parsons Project
--------------------------------------------------------------------------