HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house



>    We have a mouse problem in our house in Vermont. We've used 'DeCon' and
>found a few dead mice. Are we going to have to keep this up forever ?
>
>    This house is not occupied very often, so I was wondering if I could
>do something to discourage them from living in the house? The easiest
>is a very load alarm system which could go off a few times a day when
>we are not there. Would this do any good?
>
>    Poison seems a bit brutal and results in smelly bodies. Cats are
>not practical as we're not there enough.
>
>    Any 'natural' ideas would be appreciated.
>--
>Tan Bronson             tan@Microvation.COM (or tan@bronson.UUCP)
>Microvation Consultants 20 Sperry Road          Madison, CT 06443
>                        Voice: (203)-421-5061   Fax: (203)-421-5292


	I haven't had to deal with to many mice, 1/2 dozen or so. But my
sister lives next to a field and has many problems with mice in the past.
I bet on a yearly basis she has had around 20 mice to get rid of.  She
bought one of those electronic gismos that emitts a high frequency pitch,
that keeps away such pests.  She now has 3 of them, one pointing at the
front door, one pointing at the backdoor, and one in the garage. She also
had an exterminator come out and tell her what small things she could do
to stop the mice from finding other entrances. 

      Putting in the electronic gismos stop all but a couple of mice a year.
After taking care of the exterminator suggestions, she has had one mouse in 
about 3 years.

	If I ever start having mice problems again I think I'll buy some of 
those electric gismos. 


--

Bob Hester                                       hester@hpsmpa.lvld.hp.com
Hewlett Packard                                  phone: (303)679-2185
PO BOX 301                                       fax: (303)679-5951
Loveland, CO. 80539




Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: kludge@grissom.larc.nasa.gov ( Scott Dorsey)
Subject: Re: Question of Kitchen appliances, Are there small dishwashers, etc
Organization: NASA Langley Research Center and Reptile Farm
Distribution: usa
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1992 12:23:16 GMT

In article <1992Aug28.025518.14092@news.Hawaii.Edu>, bill@gaza.uhcc.Hawaii.Edu
(William J. King) says:
>
>        Does any company make smaller dishwashers, and
>        clothes washers for under the counter installation?
>        (Are there front loading clothes washers?)

There is only one 18" wide dishwasher being made, as far as I can tell, and
it's a Whirlpool product.  It's also remarketed by Sears, but it might be a
bit less expensive to purchase it from a Whirlpool dealer.  It'll take a bit
of talking to find someone who knows what you are talking about, but I
actually managed to find someone here in Hampton, VA who had them in stock.
--scott

You might actually consider going down to Mitsukoshi, by the way.  The last
time I was there (some years back) they had a good selection of the 
miniaturized Japanese appliances, designed to fit in small Japanese houses.
From: erickson@atlas.cs.nps.navy.mil (David Erickson)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: 12 gauge vs 14 gauge wiring price
Date: 31 Aug 92 19:35:38 GMT
Reply-To: erickson@taurus.cs.nps.navy.mil (David Erickson)
Organization: Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey CA

In article <1992Aug31.160453.7043@ulowell.ulowell.edu> wex@cs.ulowell.edu writes:

>In article <1992Aug31.093455.3278@titan.ksc.nasa.gov>, myjak@titan.ksc.nasa.gov (Michael D. Myjak) writes:

>|> From: myjak@titan.ksc.nasa.gov (Michael D. Myjak)
>|> > chrisb@cs.cornell.edu (Chris Buckley) writes:
>|> > 
>|> >> Anybody have a rough ballpark figure for the cost of building a
>|> >> new house with 12 gauge wiring instead of 14-gauge?

>Now, check out the difference in costs between 15 A and 20A switches
>and outlets.  (You can put 20A outlets in 15 A branch circuits, but not
>the other way around.) we are talking 100%+ difference for outlets
>(there are cheepie [sic] 15A outlets, but no cheepie 20A'rs)


On the contrary, as the FAQ points out, there is an exception to the
general rule that the rating of a device be at least as great as the
rating of the overcurrent protection.  It is o.k. to put 15A outlets
and switches in a 20A branch circuit.  It is also o.k. to do the
reverse.

Dave Erickson
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: drevik@utkvx2.utk.edu (Drevik, Steve)
Subject: JUST SAY NO TO 'KILLING BURGULARS' THREAD!
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: University of Tennessee Computing Center
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 18:45:00 GMT

Some of us don't have the best news server software in the world.
As soon as I get three entries in my kill file, it takes forever 
to scan a news group.

RE: 'consumers' and 'house' argument:

Yes, you can rationalize its appropriateness.  But historically, this
group has been the home-repair do-it-yourself or about-to-buy-a-home-
and-I-need=advice group.  The original poster wanted expertise (on
the net? hah!) about guns.  That's why we recommended rec.guns.  Now
if he original poster or anyone wants to know how to buy or build a
nice gun cabinet....

RE: Healing Crystals and Home Defense:

I truly believe that an amythyst and black onyx blend will draw
much more cosmic energy that any other possible configuration.  File
the amythyst to a hexagonal point, and make sure you're thinking
with your positive Yin when you open fire on the tresspasser.  As
his molecules vaporize and his soul is released to the Goddess, 
keep thinking about him as a victim....he's just a victim of circumstance.

(snicker, snicker)

---------------------------------------------------------------

   Steve Drevik                     VOT 4 QUALY !
From: wido@isgtec.com (Wido Menhardt)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Pilot Light Goes Out...
Date: 27 Aug 92 22:29:33 GMT
Distribution: usa
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5

Ken Smith (kens@eugene.net.com) wrote:
: 
: one of the two pilots will go out. When this happens, I have to lift the 
: top of the range up and re-light the pilot. I am hoping that someone

We had exactly the same problem. You know what we did? We turned the
gas supply to the pilots off. So they don't go out anymore. Of course,
now we have to manually light the burners. Big deal.

-wido.

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Painting Garage Floor
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 92 15:19:57 GMT
Keywords: garage paint floor

In article <1992Aug26.190003.20755@i88.isc.com> jeq@i88.isc.com (Jonathan E. Quist) writes:
>
>An additional question on floor painting:  We're building a garage -
>how long must the concrete cure before we consider painting the floor?

About 30 days under normal circumstances.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | If you always tell the truth, you never
                    | have to remember what you said.
                    |                        Samuel Clemens
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: dbernard@thewho.Central.Sun.COM (Dave Bernard)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Prep for driveway waterseal?
Date: 3 Sep 92 12:47:45 GMT
Reply-To: dbernard@thewho.Central.Sun.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems

I'm about to coat my new driveway with Thompson's Water Seal.
My brother has told me that I should first "bleach" the driveway.
Anyone hear of this, know anything about the bleach/water concentration,
what purpose it's supposed to serve?

	Tnx,
	Dave
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: sbarnhar@mailbox.mail.umn.edu (Dr. Barnhart)
Subject: Re: suggested weapons (was: Killing burglars.)
Followup-To: misc.consumers.house
Organization: U of Mn Propoganda Ministry
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 18:22:38 GMT

In article <1992Aug27.160209.26686@oracle.pnl.gov>, d3a132@pnl.gov (Carl P
Baker) wrote:
> 
> In article 270892083653@morril6t-21.micro.umn.edu, sbarnhar@mailbox.mail.umn.edu (Dr. Barnhart) writes:
> >I've had this conversation with some police officers I know, and they have
> >been fairly unanimous in recommending a 12 guage shotgun with the shortest
> >legal barrel length, no choke, and loaded with #4 magnums.  (One of the
> 
> NOT speaking from personal experience, but I can't imagen anything scarier
> than looking down the wrong end of a twelve bore at a frightened angry
> homeowner protecting her family.  This recommendation makes the most sense
> to me.  A cloud of shotgun pellets is awfully destructive at short range
> (less than 20 yards or so), and awfully innocuous after passing through
> a wall or 70 yards or so of air.

I know someone who was hit in the chest with shot while pheasant hunting,
but a hundred yards downrange at the bottom of the pellet arc.  He said the
pellets just bounced off, although he was a little frightened.

> 
> By #4 magnums do you mean 4 inch?  What size shot?  I think that I would save
> the rock salt for pesky teenage hoodlums (:-)), and stick to lead shot for
> the home invader.  Have to remember that baseball bat thing.  Handy to have
> while your watching over him waiting for the police to come (if he happens
> to not be dead and you choose to keep him that way).
> 

I meant #4 shot.  The reason this is suggested over something like the
larger 00 shot is that there's just more pellets and that means greater
spread and greater chance to hit something, more damage to the target, etc.
 By magnum I mean the higher power loads.  Usually they're 3" as opposed to
2 3/4" in length.

Shawn Barnhart ! sbarnhar@mailbox.mail.umn.edu
I'm not selling out, I'm buying in.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis)
Subject: Re: Kitchen counters, Roof repairs, Carpets
Organization: OSF Research Institute
Date: 27 Aug 92 11:50:09

In article <26AUG199223034273@summa.tamu.edu> pzs3761@summa.tamu.edu (SIERANT, PETER ZIEMOWIT) writes:

   1) The house has kitchen counters and cabinets of a dark cherry persuasion.
      The net effect is almost depressing, it's so dark. I'm thinking of
      replacing the countertops with a brighter fake wood. How plausible
      is tearing up and replacing the formica, as opposed to replacing the
      whole countertop. (24 ft., U-shape, 1 sink hole, curved up to meet wall)

It's probably cheaper and easier to replace the whole countertop.
Postformed countertop section in standard sizes and colors goes for
something like $7 a linear foot.  Cutouts and mitered corners are
extra.

   2) This is Texas, and shingles don't last very long in direct sunlight.
      The roof has a patch about 10 ft per side where the bottoms of the
      shingles are curled. I'm considering an overlay instead of a completely
      new roof for the obvious financial reasons. The overlay has a 12 year
      pro-rated warranty. Comments?

It's not recommended (and in fact is against code in many
jurisdictions) to have more than two layers of roof.  If you have two
already, you'll want to rip off.  20 years is a standard roof
warranty.  Note also that it's very important for the life of the
shingles that the roof be ventilated.

	-s
From: brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 16:52:33 GMT
Subject: Re: Ceramic tile or hardwood? (was Re: wood floor or carpet?)
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house

Hardwood floors also make it easier to brush off carpet shampoo scams:
"You want to shampoo one room worth of carpet for free?  That'll be
pretty tough, since I don't have any carpet."  Worked like a
champ this weekend.  :-)

Pete Brooks

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Best Hardware Store
From: gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston)
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 92 19:49:43 CDT
Organization: Garys' Home for Obsolete Computers

walker@eplrx7.es.duPont.com (Scott Walker) writes:

> As a soon to be first time homeowner, I was wondering what the net.opinion
> was on hardware and lumber stores.  I am looking for:
>  1. Service
>  2. Value
>  3. Customer satisfaction
> 
> The ones available to me are Lowes, Channel, Hechinger, 84, True-Value
> and Ace.  Any suggestions and experiences are welcome by both posting and
> email.

I've dealt with Lowes, Tru-Value, and Ace stores. They're franchised,
so the service and such can vary widely from store-to-store. I had
no complaints about any of them; I spend most of my money at Home
Depot primarily because I know a couple of the people working there.

Gary Heston, at home....
gary@cdthq.uucp
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: drmax@casbah.acns.nwu.edu (Marianna Max)
Subject: Re: Ceramic tile or hardwood? (was Re: wood floor or carpet?)
Organization: Northwestern University, Evanston Illinois.
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1992 15:45:23 GMT

In article <4100753@hpcc01.corp.hp.com> brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks) writes:
>I have great luck in removing tack strips with a very flat prybar.  I
>believe it's a WonderBar (tm), and it's rather sharp.  Does a great
>job at getting under the strips and lifting whole sections.  For the
>odd stubborn nail, I'll use a cat's-paw type nail puller, since the
>WB has an indifferent nailpuller section.  

Actually the "other" curved end of the WonderBar (BTW one of the more valuable
tools I have ever owned) is a perfectly serviceable nail puller. I also
carry a small piece of linolium tile or such to put under the pry bar so as
not to further dent or gouge the surface from which I am removing the nail.

Another thing I use the WB for is as a lever. For example place the flat
end of the WB under the middle of a sheet of sheet rock against the wall
where you are trying to fit it into place. You can then step on the other
end of the WB and still have two hands free for guiding and nailing the
sheetrock into place.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: jim@n5ial.chi.il.us
Subject: Re: suggested weapons (was: Killing burglars.)
Originator: jim@eddie
Reply-To: jim@n5ial.chi.il.us
Organization: me?  have you seen my desk?  : -)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 19:16:10 GMT

In article <1992Sep1.145552.22352@elroy.jpl.nasa.gov>
sns@bondi.jpl.nasa.gov (Sam Southard) writes:
>In article <1SEP199209195367@utkvx4.utk.edu> drevik@utkvx4.utk.edu
(Drevik, Steve) writes:
>>Mr. Heston... can you read?  There must be > a dozen requests to
>>move this to rec.guns.  Thanks.
>
>And almost all of them from one person....

yeah, I think his news software is screwed up somehow.  after all, we all
know that not even BIFF (who, thank God, has been silent lately...possibly
killed while robbing someone's house <grin>) would intentionally post the
same article to the same group 3 billion times in a single day....  or at
least, followup every single article in that entire newsgroup with the
above single article.

obviously a case of broken news software.  can't possibly be anything else
(again, nobody is *THAT* bad).

just add his username to your kill file if it bothers you...at least till
he gets his software fixed.  that should take care of it for the most part.

later....
   --jim

\input std_disclaimer                     % 73 DE N5IAL (/9)
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"[...] the plural of `mongoose' ought to be `polygoose'." [Jargon file 2.9.10]

INTERNET:  jim@n5ial.chi.il.us  |  grahj@gagme.chi.il.us  |  j.graham@ieee.org
ICBM:  41.70N 87.63W            UUCP:  gagme!n5ial!jim@clout.chi.il.us
AMATEUR RADIO:  n5ial@n9hsi (Chicago.IL.US.Earth)
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: <none>
Keywords: PLUMBING: Fixing ABS leak...
Date: 30 Aug 92 00:36:43 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <1992Aug26.145619.2001@yogi.hsc.ucalgary.ca> byron@yogi.hsc.ucalgary.ca writes:
>Hi.  My father-in-law, a do-it-yourself-er, installed some ABS pipe
>in my basement from my washing machine to the main pipe to the sewer
>system.  It's all done correctly with a trap etc., but a couple of
>joints have developed small leaks.  What is the proper way to "break"
>the glued joint and rejoin it so that it will not leak?

You can't break these joints if your father-in-law was anywhere near
to getting the joints right.  What you normally have to do is simply
cut the fittings off, and rejoin with new fittings.  And make sure
that you clean the pipe ends, get enough glue on the ends, and make
sure that the glue is spread (by twisting if you can) during the few
seconds before the glue freezes up.

Though, I suspect in some circumstances, if you can identify exactly
where the hole is, you could drill a hole, and pack it with a combination
of glue and ABS pipe shavings.

I had similar problems with a basement sink (mostly threaded fasteners
leaking), and there was no way out of cutting it and doing it over.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: ahill@boi.hp.com (Andy Hill)
Subject: Re: 12 gauge vs 14 gauge wiring price
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 22:45:12 GMT
Reply-To: ahill@boi.hp.com
Organization: LaserJets by Bill & Dave
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL3

clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis) writes:
> A piddly little PC ain't going to make no difference, unless you're
> foolish enough to put it on the same circuit as something nasty
> like a 12000 BTU A/C or arc welder.  In the latter case, 12ga
> ain't going to save you anyways.
> 
Well, maybe not a piddly 'ol PC, but stick a laser printer on the same
circuit, and WOW! look at those lights flicker.  Myself, I'm spec'ing
ought-gauge superconductor...
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Sound insulation for ceiling/floor:  ideas?
Keywords: sound insulation fibreglass
From: gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston)
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 92 20:05:12 CDT
Organization: Garys' Home for Obsolete Computers

tpc@bnr.ca (Thomas P. Chmara) writes:

> 
> Our master bedroom in our 1970s bungalow is right above the TV in the
> basement rec room.  This doesn't work well when Mom is trying to nap and
> the kids have The Great Mouse Detective blaring away.
> 
> The basement ceiling is the (soft) fibreglass 2'X4' suspended ceiling
> tiles.  I figured they'd provide better insulation than *this*; I guessed
> wrong.  Has anyone stuffed standard insulation between the joists for
> sound insulation?  How did you keep it up there (aside from simply from
> friction)?  Are there any other alternatives I might consider to the
> fiberglass batts?

Fiberglas won't provide you with much sound isolation. You need 
something like the acoustic absorbing foam used in studios. A 
thick carpet and pad in the bedroom would help, as well as a 
remote volume control for the TV.

Gary Heston, at home....
gary@cdthq.uucp
From: hale@btree.uucp (Bob Hale)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: It looks like carpenter ants...
Date: 28 Aug 92 21:03:27 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Brooktree Corporation

In article <1992Aug27.094454.8799@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com> oman@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com (Diane at Allen-Bradley in Cleveland) writes:
>
>The exterminator can probably tell you what chemicals they use.  The key is
>to get the chemical back to their colony to kill that darned queen - she's
>just a producing fool!  The quick-kill bug sprays won't get the poison back
>to the colony, but they do bring immediate gratification - which is what
>most of us want.

The exterminator certainly ought to tell you; if he balks, ask for
the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) for the products that they
recommend.  That should get their attention.

Bob Hale                                      ...!ucsd!btree!hale
...!btree!hale@ucsd.edu                       ...!ucsd!btree!hale@uunet.uu.net
From: brad@slammer.UUCP (Brad Isley)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: suggested weapons (was: Killing burgla
Date: 3 Sep 92 01:35:17 GMT
Organization: Just me & my computers

In article <180auiINNkh@sixgun.East.Sun.COM> egreen@east.sun.com writes:
>In article 4913@henson.cc.wwu.edu, n9020351@henson.cc.wwu.edu (James Douglas Del-Vecchio) writes:
>>
>>Revolvers are just aim and fire, no fiddling with safties, etc.
>
>Which you may want to consider if you have children around.  A pistol
>can be stored with a full magazine (clip) nearby, even if a separate
>drawer or whatever, and is almost completely child-proof.  With

OK, class.  Let's try this again.

All together, now.  Say, "speedloader."

I thought you could.
-- 
emory!slammer!brad   (Brad Isley)
+1 404 841-4169 Work			 Nopottopeein: "Howzit Goink?"
+1 404 925-9663 Home			  The gang: "Fine, just fine."
From: CMF0@bunny.gte.com (Cristina Ferla)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Painting Garage Floor
Date: 1 Sep 92 17:45:22 GMT
Organization: GTEL

In article <1992Aug31.172405.11307@ncrcae.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM> 
cooper@endeavor.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM (Bob Cooper x7429) writes:
> Regarding your problem of the paint coming up.  Could this be a surface 
preparation problem.  I was thinking about scoring (sp?) the surface of 
the floor with a dilution of muratic acid first.  Any thoughts?
> 
> |> 
Hi Bob,

I understand the reasoning behind your response to my problem.  However, 
be aware that this was the THIRD time that I was doing this floor with epoxy paints (yes, it does wear out after a number of years).  I prepared it carefully, sanded all and any shiny areas that still
existed, washed it twice with Spic and Span solution, and rinsed it twice. 
I let it dry thoroughly, and actually the problem appeared in only one of the two sides of the garage (where I park my four-wheel van).   Muriatic acid is only necessary when you are dealing with unpainted concrete, as I understand it.

However, and as I mentioned before, I had had no problems whatsoever with 
the Sears epoxy paint the previous two times that I painted the floor.  I don't know if the Benjamin Moore paint was not compatible 
with the previous paint, or what.  I already got the free gallon from Benjamin 
Moore,  (I must say that they were pretty baffled by my experience and 
very willing to give me the paint to try again) and if the weather is good, I will be re-preparing the garage and re-painting this long Memorial
weekend.  I will not be able to tell if it worked for a couple of weeks 
(I'll keep both vans out of the garage for a week, and then we'll see).

Let me know how your floor comes out.  I am sure you'll be pleased with 
the results, since it is a major difference from the unpainted concrete to 
the painted version.

Good luck, again.

Cristina
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: wilde@cs.colorado.edu (Nick Wilde)
Subject: Re: Question of Kitchen appliances, Are there small dishwashers, etc
Followup-To: misc.consumers.house
Organization: Just enough to get by...
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 01:51:21 GMT

In article <1992Aug28.025518.14092@news.Hawaii.Edu>,
bill@gaza.uhcc.Hawaii.Edu (William J. King) wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> 	Does any company make smaller dishwashers, and 
> 	clothes washers for under the counter installation?
> 	(Are there front loading clothes washers?)
> 	I prefer not Sears, but only if none of the 
> 	major brands make the desired small size.
> 
> 	Thanx, in advance.
> 	Bill
> 

I'm not sure what you mean buy a smaller dishwasher, but GE makes
an "undersink" dishwasher. It's the same width as most normal 
dishwashers, but the dishwashing cavity is built shallower so that
you can fit a (shallow) sink over the top.

-Nick

------------------------------------------------------------------
      Nick Wilde         |  "The truth is rarely pure and
 wilde@cs.colorado.edu   |          never simple"  - Oscar Wilde
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house