HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Corrado SLC Oil Filter
From: jan@camhpp12.mdcbbs.com (Jan Vandenbrande)
Date: 20 Aug 92 11:29:54 PDT
Distribution: na
Organization: M&E (Division of EDS), Cypress CA

Remember the good old days when we were all complaining
about VW filters costing too much (like around 5-6US$).

The RV6 engine as found in the Corrado SLC and future 
Passats & Jettas (Golfs?) have their oil filtering
system redesigned. 
Instead of changing the entire filter (which contains 2
valves, filter element, and housing) you now only
have to change the filter element.
The oil filter housing now screws appart and the valves are now part
of the engine.
VW quotes that this produces less waste and is more environmentally
friendly.

Now you would figure that the filtering element be cheaper than
an entire oil filter: NOT!

Try US$20.

Hmmm, it's time to find another source for these thingies.
(Any suggestions other than WolfSport).
BTW: To make matters worse, there are two size available for SLC,
one short, one long.
-- 
Jan

jan@camhpp12.mdcbbs.com		(work)
jan@lipari.usc.edu		(school, usually works, forwards)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: fff@microplex.com (Fred Fierling)
Subject: Re: Corrado SLC Oil Filter
Organization: Microplex Systems Ltd.
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 15:50:10 GMT

In article <1992Aug20.112956.2514@mdcbbs.com> jan@camhpp12.mdcbbs.com (Jan Vandenbrande) writes:

>VW quotes that this produces less waste and is more environmentally
>friendly.
>
>Now you would figure that the filtering element be cheaper than
>an entire oil filter: NOT!
>
>Try US$20.

A bargain!  It's even worse here in Canada: $31.00, with taxes $35.03.
That's approximately US$9.00 more (the cost of big government).
-- 
Fred Fierling    fff@microplex.com       Tel: 604 875-1461   Fax: 604 875-9029
Microplex Systems Ltd   265 East 1st Avenue   Vancouver, BC   V5T 1A7,  Canada
From: foo@drycas.club.cc.cmu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Hints on Cabriolet Rear Speaker Install
Date: 23 Aug 92 11:33:14 -0500
Organization: Carnegie Mellon Computer Club

Hi VW fans,

I have (hopefully) an easy question.. I want to add some speakers to the
'87 convertible that I have and I want to know if the installation will
be a hassle (these are actually truck speakers and I plan to put them
in the trunk area right against the back folding seat...so I can fold
the seat sometimes when I am in the mood and blast away, etc).
Is it easier to just wire them from the rear speaker wires?? (these
speakers are shot from the previous owner anyway)  If so, is it hard to
remove the pannels to do this??  what other hopes do I have??  Suggestions??

PS:  I am also concerned about power consumption.. what should I be wary of??


foo@drycas.club.cc.cmu.edu
From: cote@cs.ucsd.edu (Brad Cote)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Jetta's and AC
Summary: Jettas and AC
Keywords: Jetta AC
Date: 20 Aug 92 18:52:02 GMT
Distribution: usa

Hi everyone,

	We own a 1987 Jetta that did not have AC installed in the
factory. VW has a kit which can be installed by a dealer to add AC to
our car. However, one dealer in the area will not install it, and says
that he has had nothing but problems with cars on which he has. He
says that different alternators and wiring was used in the factory
installed air cars, and that putting AC in a car at the dealer is a
receipe for disaster. Another dealer in our area has no such problems
with the VW AC kit, and will install it.

	Our car is in great shape, with 70K miles, no rust, perfect
interior, good paint. We just put 80K tires on it, and we really don't
want to sell it and buy a different car just for factory AC if we can
help it. But my wife now has an outside sales job, and AC is a must
for July through at least the middle of October.

	Any personal experiences or comments will be welcome.

				Brad Cote'
				University of California, San Diego
				STARE Project
From: moussavi@hplred.HP.COM (Farshid Moussavi)
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 22:34:34 GMT
Subject: Door speakers in 90 Jetta GLI
Organization: Hewlett Packard Labs, Palo Alto CA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw

Hi everybody

I have a pair of 5.25" mid/bass drivers from Blaupunkt I'm trying to
install in my 1990 Jetta's front doors.  I can either just attatch them
to the factory grille and put the grill in its place, or I can make a
hole in the door panel behind the factory grille and drop the speaker
in there, like a normal door installation, thus using the door's interior
as an enclosure of sorts.  Anybody have any recommendations/expereinces
regarding door speakers in a Jetta?  What should I do?  Thanks a bunch in
advance.

Farshid
From: rmakarem@usc.edu (Total Stranger)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Which repair manual is better, Factory or Bently?
Date: 21 Aug 1992 12:08:53 -0700
Organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: nunki.usc.edu

Hi,
The subject says it all.  I am a novice at car repairs, so 
which repair manual will be more useful to me, the one put
out by the factory, or the Bently one.  Also what is a good
price for either? (I am interested in on for an '88 Jetta)
Thanks,
Rabih.
From: C.Wong1@lut.ac.uk
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Audi 85-88 info request
Date: 20 Aug 92 12:06:14 GMT
Reply-To: C.Wong1@lut.ac.uk (C Wong)
Organization: Loughborough University, UK.

In article <Aug.18.10.45.32.1992.5144@yoko.rutgers.edu> tomlee@yoko.rutgers.edu (Thomas J Lee) writes:
>I'm currently shopping for a mid-to-late 80s Audi,
>probably a 4000, definitely manual tran., and I
>had a few questions:
>
>1. How do the all-wheel drive models perform?
>   Are they more expensive to operate and maintain?
>2. What are people's opinions on the overall
>   reliability of models in this era? Are there
>   any particular models or features to avoid?
>   Since the car I buy will have 40-70K miles, I'm
>   concerned about the rep Audis have for being very
>   expensive to maintain.
>3. WIth the exception of the all-wheel drive models,
>   are all Audis front-wheel drive after 1985?
>
>Thanks for this and any other info that Audi owners
>care to pass on.
>
>Tom Lee
>tomlee@paul.rutgers.edu

A friend of mine has a Audi 90 Quattro, (4000 ? U.S. designation ?). He bought
it just over a year ago with 70k on the clock. It has a standard 2.3l 5 cylinderengine. He gets about 27mpg (1 gallon=4.55l) on the highway, 22 around town.
He has just spent about US$2000 on it, $1000 on a new exhaust (custom made
stainless performance job) and the rest on new springs and dampers (Boge Turbo  Gas with Eibach springs, all German) + fitting and rolling road tune. The
suspension kit took 5 hours!!! to fit, apparently all sorts of things have to
be disconnected and many of the nuts and bolts were corroded.

The exhaust was a definite success, 150 bhp (DIN) between 3250 and 5200 rpm,
torque was 168 lb/ft between 3250 and 4700 rpm. The factory figures are
136bhp and 130 lb/ft (?). The saddest part was that 51bhp was lost through
the transmission !!!!!! He was not pleased. The 2wd version normally loose
about 26bhp or so. So he is getting just about 100bhp at the wheels.

The suspension kit was an improvement over the original (v. tired) dampers,
but was not really a 'sports' setup in the true sense. But the ride Q has
not suffered at all, if anything it has improved ! The car still rolls too
much around corners and the steering is too light. May be Koni or Sachs
kit would of been better. Or the addition of uprated anti-roll bars; I don't
think it has a rear anti roll (sway) bar, may be thats the problem.

Aside:
The power and torque curve output from the 2.3l 5cyclinder Audi unit makes
my VW Golf 1.8l 16v look silly !!  The only consolation is that I still
have over 110bhp at the front wheels, in a lighter car (140 at the flywheel),
totally standard.

regards
Chun
From: nicos@csa.bu.edu (Nicos Kontopoulos)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Audi 85-88 info request
Date: 20 Aug 92 21:19:59 GMT
Article-I.D.: bu.94189
Organization: Computer Science Department, Boston University, Boston, MA, USA

In article <1992Aug20.120614.15965@lut.ac.uk> C.Wong1@lut.ac.uk (C Wong) writes:
>it just over a year ago with 70k on the clock. It has a standard 2.3l 5 cylinderengine. He gets about 27mpg (1 gallon=4.55l) on the highway, 22 around town.
                               ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>regards
>Chun


Are you sure about that? I always thought a gallon was something like
3.785 liters...


-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
   Nicos Kontopoulos                             Voice: (617) 787-1780
   INTERnet: nicos@cs.bu.edu                    BITnet: ecolpqc@buacca
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mierard@resdgs1.er.usgs.gov (Michael C. Ierardi)
Subject: bad generator???
Originator: mierard@resdgs1.er.usgs.gov
Organization: United States Geological Survey
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 19:41:59 GMT

Ok all you VW lovers, know how cold the Karmann Ghias (1972 and earlier) get in
the winter.  Well looking for an answer to this problem ..I purchased an Instant
Heater from a New York. Basically this heater is like a hairblower except it
bolts directly to the battery and has a toggle switch to turn it on and off. 
This instant heater draws 30 amps from the battery, which is acceptable via
VW Trends Mag. and Hot VW Mag.  If you are familiar with 1972 Ghia you know 
that there really is not any defrost. Well if you consider drawing the outside
winter air in through the nose grills and venting it to the windshield a 
defroster ...then I may be mistaken. Needing to drive my Ghia in the winter, and
needing to be able to see through the windshield during cold and rainy days I 
went to the local Hi Gear and purchased 2 defrosters which plug into the cig-
ligher and are a bulky (approx. 8"x5"x6") for about $20.00 a piece. Well to 
make a long story short I cut-off the cig-lighter extensions - dismantled the 
defrosters down to the core - wired the 2 defrosters together with a toggle
switch and shoved the heater cores into the vent hoses under the hood near the
dash. I was driving home the other day and it was dark, cold, rainy, and there
was a good song on the radio...so I had the instant heater, the lights, 
defroster, and the radio on. As I looked to the side of the dash I saw that the
generator light came on ever so slightly. So I sort of turned one thing off at
a time to see which was drawing the most current from the battery. Well after 
toggling everthing a few times the generator light didn't change luminousidy
any more. Later down the road with ever thing turned off ...running basic car
functions the generator light now stays on. There is only so much time before
the battery will no longer maintain enough current to keep the car running.
      I am not familiar with generator rebuilding, but this is the third 
generator and the second battery I have had replaced in the last year and a half.
Looking inside the generator after removing the protection plastic plate I noticed
some dark brown melted goop on the left side of the generator near some wires.
This is not the wires near the brushes (metal rectangular shape). What does that
mean? I also read somewhere that the newer voltage regulators have an extra wire
coming off them that needs to be grounded, yet not to the generator. I do not 
know how to test the generator for correct polarity nor to see if it is correctly
charging the battery. The generator is a Bosch with a year warrenty and this one
lasted 4 months. The generator before that lasted just 2 months longer.
I have been told that the battery should die before the generator gives out...I 
don't know?   Any help would greatly be appreciated.  Thanks.
.
.


.
.
.
.
From: kjk0@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (KEVIN J. KRESS)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Timing a 1981 Audi 4000
Date: 12 Aug 92 22:59:38 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

I am in need of assistance in timing a Audi 4000.  The year is a 1981.  Is it
as simple as lining up the timing notches as in the Bug engine or are there
several adjustments that have to be made to get it right?  Where does the
timing notch line up?  I am fairly versed in Bug engines and Rabbit engines
but I'm not sure if the Audi is the same.  Any help would be greatly
apprieciated.     Thanks in advance...   Kevin
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: baw2@cunixb.cc.columbia.edu (Bruce A Weisberg)
Subject: Re: Must I use Autobahn Brand Anti_Freeze?
Reply-To: baw2@cunixb.cc.columbia.edu (Bruce A Weisberg)
Organization: Columbia University
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 18:53:05 GMT

In article <4793@dove.nist.gov> keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov (Larry Keys) writes:
>In article <1992Aug11.111643.1742@drycas.club.cc.cmu.edu> foo@drycas.club.cc.cmu.edu writes:
>>Dear VWers,
>>
>>I am very miffed and angry to find out that after having overheating problems
>>and DESPERATELY needing extra anti-freeze to add to my '87 Cabriolet (which
>>runs wonderfully otherwise).. that 2 dealers told me that If I did not want
>>to buy their Autobahn brand one (at $15 dollars or so a gallon) that I could
>>go to any local auto parts store and just buy anti-freeze with no phosphates
>>(which supposedly would hurt the aluminum head in my car).  Well... after
>>visiting two main auto parts chains in my area and explaining my dilemma..
>>(and being told that the restriction seemed silly since one of the people
>>I spoke with had an aluminum head on his own car and simply used Prestone),
>>a frantic call to my original saleswoman (and bug fanatic extrodinaire) had
>>her admit to me.. that those dealers probably wanted me to buy the "VW"
>>brand and that Prestone would be fine mixed in the right quantities with 
>>water.  
>>
>>Now, my question is this..  Does anyone know of any particular reason why
>>I should ONLY buy the Autobahn brand and can you show me what documentation
>>I can read to verify this??  Any help would be appreciated.
>>
>>foo@drycas.club.cc.cmu.edu
>
>
>A few months ago Pat Goss (of PBS's MotorWeek) visited our club (National
>Capital Area VW Club) and he said that in his shop he has seen many
>water cooled VW's because the incorrect type of antifreez was used.
>He said use only "phosphate-free" antifreez.  I don't remember the full
>explanation, however, it had something to do with the different metals
>used in the engine.  Some reaction between, the aluminum, phosphates,
>and iron.  Maybe someone else could elaborate.

	Aluminum + Phosphate = Aluminum Phosphate = Dissolved Cylinder head!

	Make sure that the antifreeze says in it "safe for aluminum heads"

	Bruce
From: paasch@kepler.ME.ORST.EDU (Bob Paasch)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Bug Tires
Date: 18 Aug 92 22:57:42 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Oregon State University

Has anyone out there in netland tried 205/60 - 15
tires on the back of a bug? By my calculations these would
be just a little larger in diameter than the 185/65 - 15's
I have on the front.  I plan to mount them on 5 1/2 inch 
rims.

I have 185/70's on there now, and there looks to be enough
clearance to go two steps wider.

Bob
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: kpjone01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu
Subject: Performance Exhaust for GTi.
Organization: University of Louisville
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 12:26:51 GMT

Hello,
 
A buddy of mine has a 91 GTi and is looking for a new sports exhaust to
purchase in the near future.  He explained to me tha the is in the market for
a system that would sound close to stock when the car is at idle RMP's but
would move to a sports type sound when the RPM's move up in the 4000+ range.

I believe he is wanting something that has the same effect as alot of Japanese
performance exhausts that I have seen.  These cars will sound almost normal
until the driver punches it and then they (the exhaust) lets out a scream and
you KNOW it has a sport exhaust.
 
Is anyone familiar with an exhaust system with these characteristics for the
GTi?
 
Thanks...
 
Kevin

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: w2philip@watson.ibm.com (Philip Darringer)
Subject: Re: Proposed Mini Audi 80
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 15:40:26 GMT
Reply-To: rajkumr@ibm.com
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center

In article <1992Aug19.005410.11331@tc.cornell.edu>, gould@theory.TC.Cornell.EDU (EWD) writes:
|> 
|> There's an interesting blurb in September's "European Car" 
|> about a proposed mini Audi 80:
|> 
|> "Based on the Audi 80, but with a shorter wheelbase, Audi's 
|> proposed base car is as small as a VW Golf I, has two doors 
|> with a big rear hatch, a body of aluminum and the use of extra-
|> light materials elsewhere for a very lightweight platform.
|> Audi's Ferdinand Piech has emphasized that such a car must
|> consume no more that 3 liters per 100 km." [78 mpg !]
|> 
|> This would certainly stop my whining about Audi abandoning
|> it's lightweight tradition.  And if it's truly kin to the 80
|> there could be quite a spectrum of performance options. 
|> 
|> Also mentioned in the issue are an aluminum bodied Audi V8,
|> and hatchbacks from MB and BMW.

Looks like Audi's quickly cashing in on their joint venture with Alcoa,
considering these future aluminum products.  Now, what about the Avus (?)
supercar.....

|> 
|> 
|> Eliot W. Dudley
|> RD 1, Box 66
|> Cato, New York   13033
|> 315 626 2878
|> edudley@mailbox.syr.edu

Phil Darringer
w2philip@watson.ibm.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: ac579@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (G.C.J. Timm)
Subject: Re: Dealer to avoid (revisited)
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio, (USA)
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 92 20:35:16 GMT


>Dealer oriented BS deleted for brevity.

1.  Cars have been around a LONG time.
2.  Cars are not all that complicated.
3.  It takes very little effort to please a customer.
4.  Most car dealers are scum.  
5.  Sales creeps make money by cheating the customer.
6.  Most car dealers consider service a waste of time
effort and money and ACTIVELY discourage customers from using
their facility.
7.  THE ONLY method a customer has of getting back at the
dealer is to discourage others from making the same mistake.
8.  Unfortunately Barnum was right, "There's a sucker born
every minute."  This gives car dealers a large one-time only
customer base.

Chrysler, Plymouth Dodge, Jeep, Eagle, sucks.....

Jeff
Who never makes the same mistake twice.
From: CDHWilli@exua.exeter.ac.uk (Charles Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Golf 1.3 type 3E2 carb' problems
Date: 15 Aug 92 14:37:37 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.vw
Distribution: rec
Organization: Computer Unit. - University of Exeter. UK
In-reply-to: CDHWilli@exua.exeter.ac.uk's message of 14 Aug 92 22:45:36 GMT

Sorry folks, for 3E2 in my recent carb' query read 2E3.
Thanks, Charles.
From: belinda@searchtech.com (Belinda Hoshstrasser)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Shocks and Exhaust on GTI
Date: 20 Aug 92 14:22:33 GMT
Organization: Search Technology, Inc.

Hi!  I have an 83 GTI, completely stock equipment.
The original equipment, blue seal shocks are completely
gone.  I want performance handling, but don't want
to rattle my fillings out!  I'm looking for comments or
recommendations for MacPherson struts and cartridges
(low pressure gas?).  In particular, I've been looking
at Koni, Tokico, Bilstein, and Sachs.  Will progressive
rate springs (like Neuspeed) help?  Or should I stick 
with original equipment?  I'm keeping the stock
Pirelli 185/60HR14 tires.

Another question:  I've read that the first thing to
do to improve horsepower is to trash the 83 exhaust
manifold and replace it with earlier model manifold
and to replace the down pipe and exhaust system.
Techtonix makes a kit, for example.  Any advice?

Thanks!!

Tom Hoshstrasser
(borrowing my wife's account)

-- 

  Belinda D. Hoshstrasser 
  belinda@searchtech.com
  Search Technology, Inc.
From: cs@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (cetin.seren)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: need help w/conv. top
Keywords: top, convertible
Date: 21 Aug 92 04:14:30 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: AT&T



Hello again VW buffs...
Thanks to the advice of some of the netters, I got the locking
hadle on my wife's car replaced for *only* 80 bucks... It is
an 81' rabbit convertible.  Replacing the locking handle for the 
top was a breeze.   Now the top itself needs to be replaced.
I'm a fairly good Sunday mechanic; but I do not really have too
much free time..  Should I even attempt to do it myelf?  Or should
I make the wise choice and pay sombody 250-300 dollars for labor
to do it?  The best price I got so far for material is 220.00


I'll appreciate any pointers...

				Thanks in advance,
				Cetin Seren
				
cs@karin.att.com
From: xepama@usmi02.midland.chevron.com (P.Mann)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Vanagon tire replacement
Date: 20 Aug 92 14:47:41 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: chevron

Thanks to all who responded to my request for replacement tire
information.  You saved me from a financial and safety
error.

(Would E-mail all, but my mailer is choking on the addresses.)

-- 
Parker Mann                    xepama@usmi02.midland.chevron.com
 
"Keep those cards and letters."
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Semi-Automatic Trannny
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 92 12:47:49 GMT

Greetings....I must first admit that I don't own any VW's.  

I am interested in information on the Beetle's semi-auto transmission, as it sounds quite
similar to something SAAB was using in the early 60's.  The Saab system (they called it
Sax-O-Mat), consisted of a vacuum diaphragm (ala power brakes), and an electronic switch on
the gearshifter.  If this sounds similar, let me know.....

Thanks!


--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.
hinz@picard.med.ge.com
From: msirota@ee.rochester.edu (Mark Sirota)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: bug tire sizes
Date: 13 Aug 92 17:43:13 GMT
Reply-To: Mark Sirota <msirota@socrates.ee.rochester.edu>
Organization: University of Rochester Department of Electrical Engineering

In article <0eWb2Xm00Uh7I1zFsj@andrew.cmu.edu> "Douglas S. Brashear" <db6j+@andrew.cmu.edu> writes:
> Is 165sr15 's the only tires that will fit on my standard VW rims?

I am under the impression that the stock rims are 15x4.5".  If so, here are
some other reasonable tire sizes.  You can, of course, go with smaller
diameter tires, but that will cause speedometer error and will hurt your
ride quality.

Specification  Sidewall  Radius  Diameter  Circumference  Revs/Mile  Difference
165/80-15         5.2in  12.7in    25.4in         79.8in        794        0.0%
175/75-15         5.2in  12.7in    25.3in         79.6in        796       -0.2%
185/75-15         5.5in  13.0in    25.9in         81.4in        778        2.1%
185/70-15         5.1in  12.6in    25.2in         79.2in        800       -0.8%
195/70-15         5.4in  12.9in    25.7in         80.9in        783        1.4%

> I would like to get steel belted radials, but are metric radials the
> only possibilities?

Huh?
-- 
Mark Sirota - Department of Electrical Engineering Systems Staff
University of Rochester, Rochester NY
 Internet: msirota@ee.rochester.edu
 UUCP:     rutgers!rochester!ur-valhalla!msirota
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 12:32:40 EDT
From: Dan <BXP5@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Help!

Also if someone could tell me where to find the engine "code" (two letters
that are necessary for buying the correct plugs and such) I would greatly
appreciate it.
                           Thanks,

                             Dan
                             bxp5@psuvm.psu.edu
                             '83/'79 dead bunny