HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: siegela@deshaw.com (Andrew Siegel)
Subject: Followup on film to use at baby's birth
Organization: D. E. Shaw & Co.
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 14:50:06 GMT

A few months ago I posted a request for suggestions of what kind of
film to use when photographing the birth of my baby.  After receiving
many helpful responses (for which I am very grateful), I picked
Ektar 1000.  The results were excellent: there was no excessive grain,
pictures under fluorescent lights were not very green and those under
tungsten lights were not very yellow, and not having to use flash made
for much more versatile shooting, without disturbing the baby or
hospital staff.  For example, I would not have been able to photograph
my baby son's first bath through the nursery window if I had needed
a flash.  Most of my pictures were shot at 1/60 sec, f4 or so.

Mother, child, and myself are doing fine.  Thanks again to all who
sent me suggestions.

-- 
Andrew Siegel			D. E. Shaw & Co., New York, NY
abs@deshaw.com			(212)478-0000
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: scott@yuma.ACNS.ColoState.EDU (Scott Baily)
Subject: Mail order paper problems?
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 17:28:31 GMT
Organization: Colorado State University, Fort Collins, CO  80523

  I just received a box of Ilford paper from B&H. On on side, it
has the wide label holding the top down. The pieces of white tape 
that are supposed to hold the other three sides shut were torn.

  B&H's return policy says no paper returns or exchanges are allowed.
It seems to me that I may have received a previously opened box of
paper. I guess it's possible that the tape could have torn in the
shipping process, but not real likely.

  Has anyone else received a shipment like that? Did you use the
paper, return it, or what?

  Thanks,

	  Scott Baily
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: bmahler@javelin.sim.es.com (Brian Mahler)
Subject: Picture matting/framing 
Keywords: do's and don't
Organization: Evans & Sutherland Computer Corp.
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 05:49:58 GMT

I forgot who posted the message about mounting pictures to foam
core causing it to warp.  I would like to know more information on this.

Because I switched over to mounting my pictures on acid free foam core
because I have several prints framed by custom print shops that have 
actually warped (the backer board where the print is glued looks like
/\/\/\/\/\/\/\ creating an ugly picture.  So I started my own framming
and matting, using acid free foam core as a backer board.

It has been my experience that a frame shop unless specially requested
will mount the picture on regular mat board, which will warp in just a
couple of years.  The mat board is not rigid enough to remain straight
over time. thus you must use either foam core to support the matt or a
corregated mat to support it, or just mount the picture to the foam core
itself.  So, since the foam core is acid free why not mount the picture 
directly to it?

Here is how I layer my pictures if it helps.


	*********				********
	*********				********
	*** ========================================****
	*** -----------                     --------****
	*** -------------                 ----------****
	***         """""""""""""""""""""""""       ****
	***         .........................       ****
	*** ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||****
	 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

	*****   actual picture frame
	=====   glass
	-----	mat board, 2 layers 
	"""""	art work/ picture
	.....	glue (3m PMA)
	|||||	Foam core backer board  
	~~~~~	craft paper (to help seal the frame)

So here is my big question?
  why not use the foam core to mount the picture to.  It is much stiffer
than mat board, thus resist warping several years down the road.

 And even if you do use mat board withthe special coragated backer board mat
what is to prevent the print from warping forward (towards the glass)?

Brian Mahler
Evans & Sutherland Computer Corp.
Houston Texas 

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: NE0153@LMSC5.IS.LMSC.LOCKHEED.COM
Subject: Re: Photo finishing companies in SF Bay Area
Organization: Lockheed Missiles & Space Company, Inc.
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 92 15:57:14 GMT

------------------------- Original Article -------------------------
From: rmihara@ocf.berkeley.edu (Randall A. Mihara)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Photo finishing companies in SF Bay Area
Date: 17 Nov 1992 01:40:31 GMT
Organization: U. C. Berkeley Open Computing Facility
Distribution: ca
NNTP-Posting-Host: monsoon.berkeley.edu

The photo finishing place (Calypso Color Labs) I used to send my 120
film to no longer does in house 5"x5" proofs.  They now send them out
to another lab that does unsatisfactory work.  Can anybody suggest
a lab that does good 120 proof prints in the south bay area, preferably
around Sunnyvale, Santa Clara, Palo Alto, or San Jose?

Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Please post or e-mail.

Randy Mihara
rmihara@ocf.berkeley.edu


Try Vision Labs in San Jose on Charcot Ave near the 880/Brokaw intersection.
I just took in a roll of 120, 5 x 5.  I presume they do their own processing
since you can pick it up in 24 hours.  But in any case I've really been
satisfied with their work.
From: falk@peregrine.Sun.COM (Ed Falk)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: a new camera
Date: 19 Nov 1992 02:21:35 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Mt. View, Ca.
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: peregrine

In article <1992Nov14.153254.25709@news.columbia.edu> ariana@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu (Ariana Cha) writes:
>
>i am going to buy a new camera, but i have no idea what is out on the
>market and what is good and what is bad.  
>
>right now i own a fully manual old minolta and i would like to
>purchase a fully automatic with manual override on all features and a
>few lenses.
>
>does anyone have any recommendations?  

Get a Minolta x700.  Inexpensive (relatively), has all the features
you need (unless you think you need autofocus.) and will take the
same lenses as your old Minolta.

		-ed falk, sun microsystems
		 sun!falk, falk@sun.com
To be loyal to rags, to shout for rags, to worship rags, to die for rags 
-- that is a loyalty of unreason, it is pure animal (Mark Twain).
From: monson@hobo.ECE.ORST.EDU (Ty Monson)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: How to remove cloth tape
Date: 19 Nov 92 21:58:57 GMT
Article-I.D.: talon.1eh2n1INN9pb
Distribution: na
Organization: ECE Dept.,OSU,Corvallis
NNTP-Posting-Host: hobo.ece.orst.edu

In article <1992Nov19.205416.3464@leland.Stanford.EDU> prodger@leland.Stanford.EDU (phillip prodger) writes:
>
 (stuff deleted)
>  But I don't really trust the framer.  I am coming
>to understand that most framers don't even think of photographs as
>art.  I really don't know what care to expect from him in removing
>the tape.
 Ask! And remind him that he is responsible for damage to your "valuable
 art"
>
>> Also, you will need to find out what kind of tape was used from
>
>As far as I can tell, it is standard, archival, water-based cloth tape.
                                       ^^^^^^^^ don't bet on it!

>
>As far as mointening the tape, how does one do this without damaging
>(or even disturbing) the print?  And if I do get to the point of 
>peeling off the tape, how do I ensure that I remove all the glue from
>the print too?
>There must be a convention for doing this.
  In principle, you could go through a complete rewash of the print.
  This will tend to remove spotting dye - revealing underlying flaws
  in the print. You risk doing other damage as well, since the print
  is more vulnerable to damage when wet, and you still need to keep
  the print flat while drying. Maybe you could ask around until you find
  a business that seems to know what it is doing.
  Or, test the glue for acidity. If it is neutral, leaving it in place
  may be the safest way to go.
>
 (more deleted)

 A suggestion for the future: Order a frame to your liking. And order
			      matting to your specifications. Then put
			      it all together yourself - don't let the
			      framer take possesion of the art.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: lytle@noao.edu (Dyer Lytle  CCS)
Subject: Re: Camera Feature Wars - Photo Getting Like Video
Organization: National Optical Astronomy Observatories, Tucson, AZ, USA
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 18:12:39 GMT

In article <13850@texsun.Central.Sun.COM> dbernard@clesun.Central.Sun.COM writes:
>The other beneficiary, beyond the fast snapper (and I mean no slam) and the
>battery-maker and the neophyte, is the camera vendor.

Indeed, but the experienced camera user can also benefit from the introduction
of new models since the older models, once superceeded by the new models,
often find their way to the used market and can be picked up for quite a bit
less than their new price.  Because of this, one can probably pick up a
Nikon N8008, (by all accounts a fine, modern, AF camera), for quite a bit less
than the new price 2 or 3 years ago.  Just don't buy the newest model, always
wait a couple of models, you probably won't lose much in the process but
you will save quite a bit of money.

(Personally, I have a Nikkormat FT for shooting 35mm and I haven't seen
anything yet that I think is better for the type of 35mm photography I do.
I do more medium and large format photography than I do 35mm generally
and it is unfortunate that the great feature race isn't going on so much
in 4x5 photography, otherwise I might be able to pick up an inexpensive
Sinar :-) )

 -Dyer


-- 
Dyer Lytle, National Optical Astronomy Observatories, Tucson, AZ, 602-323-4136
Internet: lytle@noao.edu        SPAN: NOAO::LYTLE (NOAO=5355)
From: sdpage@andersen.co.uk (Stephen Page)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Ilfochrome prints in a Jobo CPE-2 Plus?
Keywords: cibachrome, ilfochrome, jobo
Date: 15 Nov 92 18:34:40 GMT
Organization: Andersen Consulting (UK Practice)

nelson@hepxvt.ps.uci.edu (Matt Nelson) writes:
>So.  Has anybody out there ever done Ilfochrome prints (formerly Cibachrome)
>in a Jobo CPE-2 Plus processor?

Yes. I went on a one-day course on how to do this, run by a London dealer.
It works fine. The JOBO helps a lot inreducing the evil fumes from the
Cibachrome chemicals. The prints came out fine, although at one point there
was some unevenness when there was too much water (so the drum floated and
the chemicals dispersed unevenly). 

You can run the process at 29 degrees C, which speeds things up somewhat.


I bought a JOBO CPE-2 yesterday to do CIBA and B&W. My main reason for the
purchase was to permit developing in a light room (as I couldn't get both
dark and ventilation into the one place without effort).

Any hints from other JOBO owners would be welcome!
From: bjs@RUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Barry Sherman)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Big/fast EOS lens advice sought
Date: 17 Nov 92 19:49:42 GMT
Reply-To: bjs@RUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Barry Sherman)
Followup-To: rec.photo
Distribution: usa
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

Alvin Chia-Hua Shih writes:

>Instead of flaming each other, why don't you flame the marketroids who
>seem to always have Feature A deleted from Camera X so that they can sell
>more of Camera X' (which is, of course, more expensive, but missing some
>little thing to entice you into buying the even more expensive Camera X'')?!?

Right-on Alvin!  

Barry
--


|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Barry Sherman, Amdahl Corp.  | PROGRAM: n. A magic spell cast over a com-  |
| bjs@ruts.ccc.amdahl.com      | puter allowing it to turn one's input into  |
|                              | error messages.  tr.v. To engage in a pas-  |
|                              | time similar to banging one's head against  |
|                              | a wall, but with fewer opportunities for    |
|                              | reward.                                     |
|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Amdahl, being a corporation, is a legal fiction.  Therefore it is incapable|
| of holding, let alone expressing, opinions.  Unfortunately, this has been  |
| said of me as well.                                                        |
|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
From: browner@rm1.interlan.com (Michael Browner)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Info wanted on Nikon N90 vs. Minolta 9xi--what to buy...
Date: 16 Nov 92 13:50:38 GMT
Organization: Racal-Milgo, Sunrise, Florida

In article <1992Nov12.232340.19219@pool.info.sunyit.edu>, ujjs@pool.sunyit.edu (Jamie Schmidt) writes:
|> Hi,
|> 
|> 	I would like to ask for a comparision between the Nikon N90 and the 
|> Minolta 9xi 35mm cameras.  I am looking at buying one or the other and would
|> appreciate finding out peoples opinions on both of them.  They both seem 
|> loaded with features, but, I am wondering which one is actually the better 
|> camera.  Any help that you could provide would be appreciated.  Also, if you 
|> know of good (and inexpensive) mailorder places to purchase them.  One final
|> question--why do some companies specify in their advertisements that the
|> cameras come with USA warranties?  I thought that all new products did...
|> 
|> 	This is actually going to be for my girlfriend, so I would like to
|> get her the best one that I could.  She is graduating with a degree in 
|> photography in December, so this would make an excellent gift for her.  She
|> has expressed interest in both models (and the Nikon F4--ouch!!!), and now
|> it seems up to me to decide.....
|> 

I have all Minolta equipment and like it alot, I would normally recommend it
since the price/performace for what most people want is better.  Please no
flames or long drawn out discussions.  But in the case of your girlfriend
who appears that she will make a living from this I would recommend the 
Nikon.

The reason that I recommend the Nikon is that she can start out with a small
set of lenses, but if she gets an assignment where she needs something 
exotic, she can easily rent it, esp in New York.  Minolta is alot harder to
rent, and in many cases you would have to buy it.  For example lets say 
she needs the 300/f2.8 to cover some sporting event, being just out of college
she may not have the $4000.00 to pay for a new one if it can be found,
but it may only cost here $100.00 to rent it for a weekend.

Michael B.
-- 
Michael Browner     		browner@sun1.interlan.com or
(305) 846-6848                  browner@rd1.interlan.com
Racal-Milgo, MS E-112, 
P.O.Box 407044, Ft Lauderdale, FL 33340  
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: madrid@wam.umd.edu (Gonzalo De Cea-Naharro Romero)
Subject: filters
Organization: University of Maryland, College Park
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 19:41:36 GMT

Hi!  I have a question aboout split field filters.  What is the +1, +2 numbers referring to?   Which one is better to buy?
Thanks

madrid@wam.umd.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: hsieh1@carson.u.washington.edu (Darrell Kirk)
Subject: Canonet QL17 G-III
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 00:13:52 GMT

I missed the messages pertaining to the Canonet Ql17 G-III.   Could
someone give me a summary of the previous discussion about this camera?  I
just picked one up at a swap meet for $10.00 in almost new condition.

Thanks, Darrell in Seattle.
From: donl@glass.esd.sgi.com (donl mathis)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Contrast mask woes
Date: 23 Nov 92 21:21:57 GMT
Reply-To: donl@glass.esd.sgi.com (donl mathis)
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc., Mountain View, CA, USA


In article <2254@sousa.tay.dec.com>, madler@vssad.enet.dec.com (Michael
C. Adler) writes:

|> I made a mask that seemed about the minimum density to make the image
|> printable without dodging.  I wouldn't say the cloud region was especially
|> dark.  The mask had relatively low but perceptible detail (developed about
|> 1/3 of normal) and was unsharp.  When I laid the mask over the slide
a miracle
|> occurred:  the subtle detail in the clouds disappeared completely.  The mask
|> compensated perfectly for the original and generated a very nice gray.

It sounds like there is too much detail in the mask.  They are
opposites, and opposite subtle details will cancel each other out as
you have described, because a negative plus a positive is zero (or
nearly zero, in our case.)  You want an *unsharp* mask -- you want to
make it fuzzy, so you get an overall blending in the masked areas; just
a wash of gray.  No detail.  The mathematical analogy for this is a
positive plus a constant; everything moves a little, but retains its
basic shape.  The relationships between the lighter and darker areas
within the highlights are maintained.

Some people do this with a layer or two of acetate or some foggy
material; some do it by methods like putting a piece of glass between
the original and film, and then spinning the whole thing around
off-axis under the exposing lamp, so the shadows come in from all
sides.  (Sounds a little tricky, and somewhat difficult to repeat, but
I've never done it.)

- donl mathis at Silicon Graphics Computer Systems, Mountain View, CA
donl@sgi.com
From: sm@cel.co.uk (salim mehta)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Rebel vs. Rebel II (2)
Date: 20 Nov 92 10:54:19 GMT
Organization: Crosfield Electronics Ltd.
In-reply-to: yavor@acpub.duke.edu's message of 19 Nov 92 20:42:46 GMT

In article <7176@news.duke.edu> yavor@acpub.duke.edu (Yavor B. Parashkevov) wrote:
> In article <sue-d-191192111754@mac179.mech.nwu.edu> sue-d@nwu.edu (SUE DAKIMOWICZ) writes:
>>So what I want to know is what advantage do I have if I get the Rebel II
>>over the Rebel?

> wrong on this. What I am sure about, however, is that Rebel II has a
> *built-in flash*. So, if someone is trying to sell you over the phone
   ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

WRONG! The Canon EOS1000 (Rebel in USA) is available in *2* versions:

1) EOS1000 (Rebel) - no built-in flash

2) EOS1000F Rebel S) - with built-in flash

The newer camera is the EOS1000(F)N (Rebel 2) which inherits the whisper
drive sytem from the EOS100 (Elan). There are no real functional changes
between the two; also the prices should be similar.

I recommend buying the newer one, *unless* you can get a *very* good price
on the old (discontinued) camera. I suspect that many dealers and most
mail order places will try and get rid of the old camera to unsuspecting
buyers.

--
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Salim Mehta                             Phone :  +44 442 230000  x3450
Crosfield Electronics Ltd               Fax   :  +44 442 232301
Hemel Hempstead  HERTS HP2 7RH  UK      Email :  sm@crosfield.co.uk
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
     Alt email :  sm@cel.uucp     ...!{mcsun,uknet,uunet}!cel!sm
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: falk@peregrine.Sun.COM (Ed Falk)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: How to keep expired date films?!
Date: 19 Nov 1992 02:22:49 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Mt. View, Ca.
NNTP-Posting-Host: peregrine

In article <101979@bu.edu> dtang@bass.bu.edu writes:
>So far, I am keeping my
>films in the freezer packaged in a plastic bag (together with 
>all my frozen meat :-)).

No!  Don't do that.  Keep your film and your meat in seperate bags :-)

		-ed falk, sun microsystems
		 sun!falk, falk@sun.com
To be loyal to rags, to shout for rags, to worship rags, to die for rags 
-- that is a loyalty of unreason, it is pure animal (Mark Twain).
From: TSOS@uni-duesseldorf.de (Detlef Lannert)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Sharpness (Part II)
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 10:49:35 GMT
Organization: Universitaetsrechenzentrum, Heinrich-Heine-Universitaet, Duesseldorf
NNTP-Posting-Host: lannert.rz.uni-duesseldorf.de

In article <PHILG.92Nov11165637@zug.ai.mit.edu> philg@zurich.ai.mit.edu (Philip Greenspun) writes:

>Sometimes lenses expand or contract due to heat or age and the
>"infinity" focus mark is no longer accurate.  That is why the big
>Nikon honkers (80-200/2.8, 300/2.8, etc.) all contain some room past
>the infinity mark.

All lenses with special glass elements (fluorite, metal oxide or other
special low-dispersion materials) and catadioptrics should provide an
extra bit of focusing beyond infinity because they are strongly 
affected by temperature changes. (With shorter focal lengths << 300 mm
this effect might be small enough to remain unnoticed.)
--
Detlef Lannert      DC3EK      E-Mail: tsos@rz.uni-duesseldorf.de
"Gedanken sind nicht stets parat,
man schreibt auch, wenn man keine hat."             Wilhelm Busch
From: bu890@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Brian Segal)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Medium Format Questions
Date: 20 Nov 1992 23:36:20 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


Hi:

Call BGM color labs in Toronto at 416-947-1325, and ask them to send you their
price book..it's all there.

brian
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: krish@leland.Stanford.EDU (venkatraman)
Subject: Nikon N90, 28-70D lens - HELP
Summary: Vignetting at 70mm
Keywords: Vignetting, N90/F90, 28-70/3.5-4.5D AF lens
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 92 03:51:56 GMT

First of all thanks to everyone who responded to my previous request for
opinions on the N8008s vs. the N90.  Based on that and a whole lot of
factors (like a really good price at a local sale :-)) I bought the N90
along with the 28-70/3.5-4.5D lens (and the SB25 flash).

Well, it's a great camera and quite happy with it but I do have a
problem that I'm hoping that someone can explain.  I seem to be experiencing
a whole lot of vignetting at 70mm when I use larger apertures.  It
seems to start at about f16 and is very pronounced by f5.6 and f4-f3.5.
I shot a bunch of test slides and it's just too obvious to ignore.

BTW, I have a Nikon UV filter on the lens, I've tried both with and without
the Nikon hood recommended for the lens and it does not seem to be be
that pronounced at shorter zooms but then I haven't really tested for
it.

(Note the phenomenon I'm describing is a noticeable darkening of the
corners and I'm assuming that that's vignetting, do (!) correct me if
I'm wrong)

thanks,

ps. has any other N90 owner noticed that both in narrow and wide
autofocusing modes the camera focusing sensors seem to start a bit below
the top rectangle (and cirle) but the sides and the bottom are
absolutely on the dot?

pps. anyone familiar with the more expensive 35-70/2.8D lens and should
I just lump it and buy that one?  I don't really believe I need that
larger aperture and I do like the extra wide angle (and $$ savings) on
the 28-70!


Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jchen@wind.bellcore.com (Jason Chen)
Subject: Re: _Consumer Reports_ believable on cameras?
Reply-To: jchen@wind.bellcore.com (Jason Chen)
Organization: Bellcore, Morristown, NJ
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 92 03:35:42 GMT

In article <By2JFq.96t@cs.uiuc.edu> hasker@cs.uiuc.edu (Rob Hasker) writes:
>1k1mgm@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu (Christopher Gunn) writes:
>
>>  Do people with real knowledge of
>>cameras think _CU_ does a good job?
>
>Looking at the CU articles on cameras is what convinced me that CU
>isn't worth the price of a subscription (to me).

I beg to differ.

CU may place emphasis serving consumers better than serious photographers,
I found their reports good for selective reading.

For example, I read their lens optical analysis. Their reports may not be
as thorough or as technical as those in Pop. Photography, but they covered
some of the mort important elements such as resolution, flare, and distortion.
They also provided you information on similar products from a number of 
manufacturers. I would prefer if they could provide numbers in stead of those
red/black circles, but I can also understand who their majority readers are.

I also pay attention to their tripod analysis. Because of their report,
I shied away from buying a Cullmann tripod that had problem with locking the
center column. Had I not read the report, I would not have noticed this
major flaw (which I verified in a store). 

The part I care much less, is their subjective comments. I will determine
if I like a particular feature or not. Thanks you.

But overall, I will give them a thumb up, given what they exist for.

Jason Chen