HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jimh@ultra.com (Jim Hurley)
Subject: Re: [F] New Plant Tank, suggestions?
Organization: Ultra Network Technologies
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 92 18:58:09 GMT

In <67926@hydra.gatech.EDU> gt6441c@prism.gatech.EDU (Jon Edwards ) writes:


>  I am working on plans for a 75 gallon plant tank and would like to run
>it by the net before I actually decide on the specifics.

>Proposed Tank:
>   75g Oceanic Glass tank, no "hood"
>   DIY W/D with 4 gallons of bio media, plus carbon/peat/whatever  
>   4X40 watt flour lights, includes 2 Vitalites, 1 GroLux, and 1 Triton
>   2 or 3 75 watt(?)  Incand grow lights (for spot lighting and Swords)
>   Laterite gravel supplements, 4 inches of gravel 
>   4 to 6 Keyhole Cichlids
>   small school of tetras
>   small school of "corys" 

Sounds like a good start.

>I have a few questions, first being CO2 injections.  Exactly how necessary
>is this with the above fish, and decent flow rate through the W/D (400gph?),
>and hard/alkaline tap water (ph 7.8, pretty hard water)?  

CO2 injection isn't necessary for any fish, it's for the plants;-).
I guess you mean as a source of pH control? It will help keep the pH
slightly acid where the tetras and corys would like it. I don't
know about Keyhole Cichlids, but most cichlids like things acidic, too.

>Second question, carbon/peat/whatever.  I think I will need to use peat
>to keep the pH down, but I want it to stay at about 7.0.  Is peat the
>easiest way to do it?  What forms of chemical filtration should I use?

Don't know much about peat filtration. You wouldn't need it if you
had the CO2. It wouldn't hurt to put peat in the substrate for the plants.

>Third question, filtration.  If I already have the W/D, will it hurt to use
>it?  

I don't see why not, unless you mean will the turbulence dissipate
too much CO2? In that case, I don't know. You don't need much 
biological filtration in a heavily planted tank. 

>Thank you very much for any help.

>Jon  
-- 
Jim Hurley --> jimh@ultra.com  ...!ames!ultra!jimh  (408) 922-0100
Ultra Network Technologies / 101 Daggett Drive / San Jose CA 95134
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: AS.CCB@forsythe.stanford.edu (Christopher Bekins)
Subject: Re: (M)Wanted: Live Rock Summary
Organization: Stanford University, California, USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 20:19:55 GMT

Someone wanted info. on fish artwork, etc.  There's an ad on
the back of Sea Frontiers Magazine (Published by the International
Oceanographic Foundation (out of Miami - more or less - a most
enjoyable magazine for those who are interested: contact them at
Circulation, 65 Bleeker Street, NY.NY.10012 (212) 477-9600)....
an ad for Auquatic Supply House, Dept. T-1, 42 Hayes Street,
Elmsford, N.Y. 10523 with posters of fish, coffee cups, etc.
I've never done business with them, no connection with them, etc.
etc.  But the posters look pretty neat, even if a bit pricey,
and the fish mugs look both colorful and accurate.
Cheers,
Christopher
From: sh240031@wvnvms.wvnet.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Does grounding the sump work?
Date: 9 Sep 92 15:09:36 GMT
Organization: West Virginia Network for Educational Telecomputing

In article <1992Sep8.222609.8559@cs.ucla.edu>, jason@lanai.cs.ucla.edu (Jason Rosenberg) writes:
> sh240031@wvnvms.wvnet.edu writes:
> 
>>Igor@uicu.edu writes:
>>		Is grounding the sump as good as grounding the tank?
> 
>>This past weekend I put this to a test.  First, I measured the voltage between
>>my ground electrode in the tank and the ground at the outlet to be 74.3 volts.
>>next, I removed the ground from the tank and placed it tn the sump and once
>>again measured the voltage between the ground and the electrode and found it to
>>be the same 74.3 volts.  The electrode remained in the sump.
> 
> I'm a little confused.  Why isn't the voltage at or near 0 volts?  I am 
> assuming you have an electrode that is directly wired to the ground screw
> in your outlet.
I guess my explanation was poor.  The voltage measured in each case done by
putting a volt meter in the circut between the electrode and the ground screw. 
this in effect measured the voltage traveling between the tank/sump and the
ground via the electrode.  Hope this clarifies things.

One further note:  In my setup the water return from the sump is submerged in
the tank, thus providing a constant path for the electricity to the sump.

				Carl

> 
> It would be a nice result, however, if you could get away with grounding a
> tank in the sump...
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Jason Rosenberg                           Computer Science Department
> jason@cs.ucla.edu                         University of California
> {uunet,rutgers,ucbvax}!ucla-cs!jason      Los Angeles, CA  90024
From: frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Salmon Catfish
Date: 15 Sep 92 19:50:10 GMT
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5

Nigel Jessup (NJessup@compserv.amc.edu.au) wrote:
: 4" (at the moment) Salmon Catfish. 
: 	After scouring the local librarys we have come up with very little info
: on this fish. All we know at this stage is that it's an Australian native
: and can grow quite large, it is shark like in appearance with long
: whiskers at the underside of the mouth area. If anyone has any infomation
: on this fish please email me. 

I have never heard of a salmon catfish.  However, from your description,
I can make a few educated guesses about it.  Being sharklike in appearance,
it is probably an active swimmer, cruising the bottom and middle levels
of the tank.  It will do most of its feeding after the lights go out -
it is probably a hunter-type catfish, using its whiskers to sense
"sleeping" fish.  As it cruises by a fish, if it senses the fish it will
whirl around and snarf it up.  Mind you, like I said, I've never even
heard of a salmon catfish, but if your smaller fish start to disappear,
this fish would be my first suspect.

--
"They thought to use and shame me but I win out by nature, because a true
freak cannot be made.  A true freak must be born." - Geek Love

Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:7330 alt.aquaria:4974
From: steve@celia.UUCP (Steve Tyree)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: [M][R]   Lights
Date: 14 Sep 92 18:10:34 GMT
Reply-To: celia!steve@usc.edu (Steve Tyree)
Organization: Rhythm & Hues, Inc., Hollywood


 Ron, you have done a fine job researching the questions of reef lighting.
More than I ever did. You also need to determine what type of reef inhabi-
tants you want to have. If you want to someday hopefully have a hard to
find high light demanding coral (Favites, Leptoria, Acropora, Gonipora)
than you might want to spend the extra money. The two most important areas
for money are Live Rock Quality and Lighting, followed by protein skimmer.
Also the larger the tank the more reliable your water parameters are. More
of these previously mentioned corals are being imported currently. I can 
confirm that Acropora can thrive under a 5500 corallife Metal Halide and
2 140 watt 03 actinics. 
 If you want to have lower light demanding corals than look into the cheaper
alternatives. The 5500 corallifes in my tank have allowed an Acropora to
thrive and gradually gain a bright green natural pigment. I hate to do pro-
duct endorsement but you seem to be looking for opinions.

 Steve Tyree - These opinions are mine and mine alone.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Subject: Re: Breeding Rainbows (How?)
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 92 21:23:04 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)

In article <68216@hydra.gatech.EDU> gt7969a@prism.gatech.EDU (DEPUY) writes:
>I am interestad in breeding rainbows.  I would be interested in hearing
>any comments or suggestions.  

Get a book on fish breeding.  There is plenty of choices on the market and 
many are inexpensive.  See FAQ for suggestions.

>Topics include:  tank size needed,

Depends on the fish size.  A rough guideline is 5 gal per pair of 2" fish.
More space is usually better.

>substrate >needed?, 

Dark sand or gravel will work, but is not essential.

>lighting,

Usually not essential.  The normal tank and ambient lighting will be sufficient.

> special food, 

Live foods, especially high-protein foods like worms, will improve egg 
production. 

>demand for them (assuming I have any luck),

Depends.  The easy ones are easy and cheap.  The more difficult ones are 
often in less demand simply because there are fewer people who know about 
them, are interested in them and are willing to pay the price.

>and related ideas.  Thanks in advance.

Rainbows are bred pretty much like killies.  A yarn mop, either
floating or not depending on the species, is used a spawning substrate,
but just about any fine-leaf plant like Java Moss will do.  Mops are
easier to handle.  Many rainbow species's eggs take a few days to over
a week to develop and are relatively tought and immune to handling.  
They are usually water-incubated, but can be incubated on moist peat
for a period of time -- this allows to slow down the egg development and
to get the eggs from several days of spawning to happen at about the same
time.
-- 
Oleg Kiselev at home			...use the header to find the path
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: hellmann@cs.scarolina.edu (Douglas R Hellmann)
Subject: Re: Raccoon visitors
Organization: USC  Department of Computer Science
Date: 11 Sep 92 13:04:41 GMT

gentner@wiesental.Eng.Sun.COM (Don Gentner) writes:

>I have a small outdoor pool with some goldfish and a koi.  Recently some raccoons
>have acquired a taste for the fish in my pond.  I currently have the pond covered
>with hardware cloth, but that looks ugly and ruins my interaction with the fish.
>Any ideas for how to keep the raccoons at bay short of termination with extreme
>prejudice?

>Thanks.
>Don Gentner

My vote is for termination.  I don't have much experience with racoons, but I
understand that they are pretty intelligent little critters, so I guess a
miniature electric fence would be out of the question?

Doug Hellmann
hellmann@cs.scarolina.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: sonny@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (joseph.j.de rosa)
Subject: Re: Electric  cats?
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 18:32:07 GMT

In article <1992Sep14.155445.25217@pixel.kodak.com> kcwong@ssd.kodak.com writes:
>In article 14882@cbnewsh.cb.att.com, shine@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (stephen.c.shine) writes:
>>In article mattk@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (matthew.kaufman) writes:
>>>And even for me, a known aficianado of fish that are less than 
>>> glamorous-looking
>>>(still working on that tank of black-chinned tilapias, albino 
>>> cynolebias whitei
>>>and aphyosemion franzwerneri) they're just a bit *too* ugly to consider for
>>>a tank. Brown cigars with beady little eyes that are dangerous. Uggh.
>>
>>Why does the term "butt-ugly" leap to mind?
>>
>>:-)
>
>All right! We have a thread on the UGLIEST FISH CONTEST! My vote goes for the
>South American killifish Cynolebias Wolterstorfii! It looks like it needs a 
>serious coat of Retin-A on its body. Uggh, only a mother (or Mr. Wolterstorf)
>could love the fish. It's eggs are more expensive than caviar -- for only $8, I know
>a guy in Czechoslovakia who would be glad to sell you the living eggs. :-)
>

Actually, Cyn wolterstorfii is a pretty nice fish, if you can get them 
established. I haven't seen too many photos that did them justice, but the 
ones I had looked like my Cyn. nigrippinis (on steroids). A remarkably
grotesque fish is Cynolebias prognathus. It is large, grows remarlable fast
(I had some eggs hatch out (1/2" fry) and grow to 2" in 3 weeks. They maxed 
out at about 4.5", and they had the meanest look you can imagine. A remarkably
ugly fish. Of course, it remains my favorite, and I am terribly dissapointed
that I have lost the strain. This is one fish that stays on my "MUST HAVE"
list.

Joe DeRosa
jderosa@attmail.att.com
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: srh3@Ra.MsState.Edu (Steven R. Hollis)
Subject: Re: (F) What do you feed a LOBSTER and CRAYFISH...
Organization: Mississippi State University
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 20:25:55 GMT

I used to keep crayfish for fishbait in those little kiddie pools out
in my back yard.  They will eat most anything.  We used to catch them
on lunch meat tied to a string.  Try hot dogs or ham, but not to much
because they can shred it, it will be very tiny and it will rot in your 
tank.

Steve

--
===============================================================================
Steve Hollis--Your friendly neighborhood zoology major
srh3@ra.msstate.edu
===============================================================================
From: paulr@bts.com (Paul Raulerson)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [M][R]   Lights
Date: 15 Sep 92 16:31:41 GMT
Organization: Bux Technical Services -- Doylestown, PA

In article <22783@nntp_server.ems.cdc.com> hort@ui2.ems.cdc.com (Mark Hortman) writes:
>Well my $.02 is that I just moved to MN, and have called every where in the
>Twin Cities looking for VHO lights.  Most places have never heard of them
>and the rest say nope we don't carry those,  So I decided to call some
>mail order places, called all 4 in the FAQ and none of them have any, so
>I guess I will have to go buy a FAMA or something and mail order some!

Well- no, you don't *have* to. Call Scott out at "A Wet Pet" in Apple Valley,
(near Burnsville Center) and/or "A World of Fish" over on 62(?) street, near
Southpoint.  Scott has a much smaller store, but is one of the best aquarists
in the country, and "A World of Fish" beats a trip to the zoo. Many thousands
of gallons of salt active over there. 

Yours,
-Paul
From: fssmith@venus.lerc.nasa.gov (Greg Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [M][R] Live Rock Farming
Keywords: live rock coral reef breeding
Date: 13 Sep 92 14:48:00 GMT
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <1919@celia.UUCP>, celia!steve@usc.edu (Steve Tyree) writes...
> 
> The new issue of FAMA has a very interesting editorial article. I forgot
>to bring the magazine into work so I will try to remember the details.
>A new company has formed which sells reef breeding systems based on the
>algae scrubber tanks described in the Academic Book Dynamic Aquaria. These
>systems unfortunately sell for 100,000 for the first 625 system which in-
>cludes support and other goodies, each additional tank costs ~ 20,000 US.
>The company name might be ECO-Systems or something similar. The first systems
>are primarily intended to grow and farm live rock which can be sold and
>used as the base rock for captove reefs. They predict that about 10,000 $
>of live rock can be seeded and sold per year. The system apparently is de-
>signed to allow the entire food chain (planktons) to exist. This is no
>doubt due to the algae scrubber method of filtration. The author also men-
>tions that a similar system is being used in the Australian Great Barrier
>Reef Park, and that synchronous coral spawning has occured in the tank with
>spawning on the reef. This was reported here also by Jamie Oliver. He did
>not mention the algae scrubber system however.
> Anyway, the price of the system is steep but it sounds like an excellent
>idea. Apparently the company wants to establish locally based live rock
>breeders who also might be used as distributors for other captive breed
>reef organism. The system themselves are quoted as being capable of pro-
>pagating many reef organisms. Its sounds like they may be hyping the ca-
>pabilities of the system a little however, I applaud the efforts. Imagine,
>we could purchase captive grown live rock without nasty organisms in them.
> 
> Steve Tyree - Reef Breeder


Steve,

    I have not personally seen the Smithsonian reef tank that this system is 
based on, but I have heard comments from several people who have.  According
to them, the tank is no where near as successful as the "ADVERTISEMENT" in
FAMA would have you believe.  I have only heard reports of a few corals growing
in their reef tanks.  

    How is the tank doing now?  Has anyone seen it lately? Is it still
operating?  Has anyone in the area observed personaly any of the claims made in
the article? 


Greg
From: joanm@moe.coe.uga.edu (Joan Maxfield UCNS)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [F] Serpae Tetra beating the tar out of goldfish!?
Date: 6 Sep 92 00:50:34 GMT
	<92246.115959HCM100@psuvm.psu.edu>
Organization: College of Education, University of Georgia

In article <92246.115959HCM100@psuvm.psu.edu> HCM100@psuvm.psu.edu writes:


   So know I am faced with the awful choice of returning the Tetra (which are
   a beatiful fish!) and getting....coucgh...gag....another fancy goldfish.

	Or, of course, you could get another tank for the goldfish!
	Heck, what's one more at this point?

Joan (working on tank #5, shoot me quick before it's too late)
From: Jonathan Herr <herrj@valnet.UUCP>
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Bala sharks
Keywords: none
Date: Sun, 06 Sep 92 09:49:01 GMT
Organization: WVCF, Vincennes, IN, USA
Disclaimer: Author responsible for contents

wmack@en.ecn.purdue.edu (William J Mack) writes:

>A few of the previous articles had some discussion about bala sharks, which
>brought some questions to mind.  I have 2 sharks in a 20 gal, one clearly 
>dominates over the other.  My questions:  Are they schooling fish, would buyi
>2 or 3 more keep them from dominating each other?  I have had them previously
>(one pair) and never observed the domination game, most of the time very tran
>quil fish.  Any advice appreciated.  wmack@en.ecn.purdue.edu 

Obviously, I've missed the articles discussing bala sharks or I'd
probably have much more to say about them.  But anyway, here goes...

I've two of these in my 20H tank.  One is about 2 years and the other
about 5 mo.  The 2 year old has grown to be about 9 inches in length,
the other is still only about 3 inches.  Although the large does
dominate the tank, it doesn't appear that it is actually trying.
It's just more of it's being so much larger than all of the other
fish that it really doesn't have much of a choice.

From what I have in my tank, I would have to say yes... they are
schooling fish as the smaller one stays with the larger at all times.

Hope to have been of some help...

    =      Jonathan Herr                                 herrj@valnet.UUCP
  -   -    Wabash Valley Computing                  The Valley BBS Network
=  WVC  =  Vincennes, Indiana, USA               Serving the Wabash Valley
 -     -   +1 812 886-6109                        9pm - 7am   3/12/24  8N1
    =                 < Of course life is difficult. >
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: frank@invincible.bsd.uchicago.edu (& Esquivel)
Subject: Plants
Organization: University of Chicago Computing Organizations
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 22:28:57 GMT


Hi All,

I have a 30 gallon FW tank with different types of gouramis in it.  Right  
now it just consists of regular aquarium gravel, rocks and a few plastic  
plants.  I've been thinking about switching to live plants.  Can anyone  
give me any info on how and what is required to switch to live plants.   
Also, what type of plants would be good to start off with.  I change 20%  
of the water a week and vacuum the gravel thoroughly every 2 weeks.  Will  
this have an affect on live plants?  Also, has anyone kept plants in small  
pots in the gravel so during cleaning they would not be uprooted?

Thanks much for any help available.

Frank
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: rader@ssec.wisc.edu (Steve Rader)
Subject: Re: Does grounding the sump work?
Organization: University of Wisconsin, Space Science and Engineering Center
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 21:50:51 GMT

Dmerrill@bnr.ca (Dana Merrill) writes:
|> By the way, sounds like a big rip off to me.  Big bucks for a piece of 
|> wire with an electrode? (Am I missing something here? I'm not familar
|> with the grounding product that was described.)

|> [...] Only concern that I see is the conductor
|> (metal) that is in contact with the water must be considered.
|> [...] What about stainless steel?  Maybe someone else has an idea
|> for the electrode.

There was a good discussion of which metals are appropiate for grounding
a saltwater tanks here (around end of January '92)... After which I made
a tank ground from a scrap of titanium (hey, some people really do space
science here!)  It grounds induced AC in the tank from the sump.

Dustin (laurence@alice.wonderland.caltech.edu) wrote in 
<1992Jan24.195242.9269@cco.caltech.edu> that Albert Thiel claims that
grade 316 stainless steal will also work... I'll wager that Theil wrote
about 316SS steal in context of one of his products, surprise, surprise.

Keepn' coral,
Steve

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Steve Rader                     rader@ssec.wisc.edu
Sys Admin                                 __o __o  
Space Sci & Engineering Center           -\<,-\<, 
University of Wisconsin, Madison       ( )/---/ ( ) 
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: jony@microsoft.com (Jon Yeargers)
Subject: Re: Snails (was Question....)
Date: 09 Sep 92 14:58:31 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp.
Distribution: usa


I had this problem (once, long ago!).. Till I bought a cool looking (zebra
stripe ) fish called a 'Botia Loachatus'. This is your basic loach. all it
did for the first week or two was sniff around in the gravel and munch snails.

I had gone to my local fish store (In Seattle - go to THE FISH STORE!) in
a desperate state - I was crunching and skimming 40-50 small snails two or
three nights a week for a period of several weeks.. every night when the lights
went off they would come out and eat my plants. Since I bought the loach, I
havn't seen more than two at a time (and those were running scared). This
fish is about 2-3" long.. active..attractive.. who could ask for more! 

The tank in question: 60 gal.. lots of plants..

Jonny (jony@microsoft.com)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: cbarrios@tolten.puc.cl (Carlos Barrios Surhoff)
Subject: information about the salmon
Summary: urgent!!!!!
Organization: Universicac Catolica de Chile
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 20:34:55 GMT

 I WISH OBTAIN INFORMATION IN RELATION A FOOD FOR SALMONS. WHERE IS THE 
INFORMATION IN THE NETWORK.

 PLEASE THIS INFORRMATION IS VERY IMPORTANT FOR MY PROJECT.


THANKS IN ADVANCE.



     Marco Herrera G.
     Aquariann Assistant
     Pontificia Universidad Catolica de Chile
     w-mail: mherrera@tolten.puc.cl
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier)
Subject: Re: Activated Carbon (was Re: Cannister Filter Question ?????????????????)
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 92 16:33:06 GMT

potatohead (simone@visix.com) wrote:
: |> In article <1992Sep3.160309.23369@cs.ucla.edu> frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier) writes:
: |> ...
: |> We have about 10 aquaria, none of which have activated carbon in
: |> them.  Whatever else can be said about activated carbon, it is
: |> not a "must" for a freshwater aquarium.
: |> 
: 
: 	it can be useful for removing medication from a tank...no?!
: 	-simone

As I mentioned in another article, it can be useful for a lot
of things.  I won't re-post, since there is obvviously a time
lag between your site and mine, and you will be seeing or have
recently seen said article - it was posted under this same
subject heading.


--
"They thought to use and shame me but I win out by nature, because a true
freak cannot be made.  A true freak must be born." - Geek Love

Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier