HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: tcora@PICA.ARMY.MIL (Tom Coradeschi <tcora>)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: How Fast is a Top Fueler???
Date: 31 Aug 92 21:33:36 GMT
Organization: Electric Armts Div, US Army ARDEC, Picatinny Arsenal, NJ

hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987) writes:
>Rujith S DeSilva (rudis+@cs.cmu.edu) wrote>
>>gv9j@vax5.cit.cornell.edu writes:
>>> ... a typical Top Fuel dragster ...
>>>
>>>I saw the NHRA Northwest nationals in Seattle, and did some timing.
>>>They did 1/4 mile in 4.9 sec, meaning an avg of 3.41 g.
>>>They got up to 295 mph in 4.9 sec, acceleration of 2.74g average.
>> 
>>Err ... the above two figures are contradictory. It's got to be either one or
>>the other.

No it doesn't. Both are average figures, based upon different measurements.
(Figures lie and liars figure, right?) The acceleration of the car is not
constant, so any calculations based upon data taken at finite times will
have some error. If you were to measure the time vs position or
time vs velocity in some sort of a continuous (or nearly continuous)
manner, you would get numbers in much closer agreement. Do the math.

>> What are these cars like, anyway?  I've never heard of them, or anything
>> remotely like them.

You've _never_ heard of drag racing? I'm trying to keep my incredulity
(madeupword[tm]) to a minimum. Imagine ~3000 hp in a ~1500 lb car,
designed for pure acceleration. Or better yet, swing on down to your
drugstore and look thru the magazine rack.

>Gosh, I'm SOOOOOOOOOO tempted to write a nasty post about keeping this kind of
>crap out of rec.autos.tech, and putting it in rec.autos.sport where it belongs,
>but I'd never consider being that sarcastic.

Good thing. Since this is what r.a.tech is for.

Oh, and "nice waste of bandwidth".
-- 
 
                tom coradeschi    <+>    tcora@pica.army.mil
From: pshyvers@pyrnova.mis.pyramid.com (Peter Shyvers)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Anybody know how to remove a windshield?
Date: 3 Sep 92 22:06:00 GMT
Reply-To: pshyvers@pyrnova.pyramid.com (Peter Shyvers)
Organization: Pyramid Technology Corp., Mountain View, CA
Originator: daemon@sword.eng.pyramid.com

In article <Bu0FKI.4wB@news.cso.uiuc.edu> emgg1058@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Matt Gaertner) writes:
>
>
>As the title says, Does anybody know how to remove a windshield?
>
>Recently while loading some lumber into my car, a board fell and cracked my 
>windshield. It has a nice spiderweb right in the center, about 9" in diameter.
>The repair shop says that if I can provide one, it would only cost ~$55 for 
>installation. My local junkyard is filled with escorts ( mine is an '84 ) but 
>I've heard that removing one intact is pretty tricky.
>

When I replaced the windshield on my wife's old (Mitsubishi) Dodge Colt
(maybe a '78?) *removing* the windshield was a bigger pain than installation.
I remember sitting in the passenger compartment *kicking* out the windshield...

On at least that vintage car, one removed the chrome trim that covered the
gasket surrounding the windshield.  The shop procedure is (usually) to
cut out the gasket (yes, there's a special tool to make it easier) and then
lift out the windshield.

As we were on a very limited budget, and the local Dodge dealer was out-of-
stock on the gasket, we were trying to save the old one. It worked, too, but
I busted the old glass clean in half trying to get it out. Messy, and noisy,
too.  Very tight fit.

Too bad the gaskets around the trunk, doors, and cylinder head weren't half
so good...
 
I'm surprised the local yards aren't selling the windshields already out.
Usually they don't want you doing it yourself, due to the risk of injury. 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: Fan belts w/teeth
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 92 07:41:22 GMT

Theodore Chen (tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU) wrote:
: 
: just bought a few belts to replace the ones in an '86 Audi 5000S.
: here's the problem: the old ones have teeth in them (actually,
: the teeth are so wide that it would be more accurate to say that
: the belt has slits in it).  the new ones don't.
: -teddy

The purpose of the 'teeth' is, as you mention, to improve the flexibility
of the belts.  This also has the effect of causing less heat buildup in the
belt, making them last longer.

There is an aftermarket brand of belts called "Top Cog", which has these 
teeth.  I've used them, and have had no problems.  The didn't cost appreciably
more than standard belts, as I recall.

As far as surface area, that's really not a concern, as none of the belt-driven
accessories should require that much force to turn.

One thing to be careful of, don't tighten the belts too tight, as this is hard
on the bearings in your alternater/etc.
--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.
hinz@picard.med.ge.com


From: wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii)
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 18:36:39 GMT
Subject: Re: Re: IROC smokes on start ['vette heads]
Organization: Hewlett Packard - Boise, ID
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

In <1992Aug28.024800.20130@koko.csustan.edu> Jonas Grumpy writes:

>I have never known this to be a problem with small block heads. I know 
>valve guides eventually wear, but not so soon. I hope chevy didn't screw
>up a time perfected design.
>

My '83 T/A started to leak past it's valve guides at about 18K miles.  The
rest of the car fell apart at 24K miles.  I sold it at around 30K miles.
(and believe me, this car was babied from the time I brought it home from
the showroom floor!)

Wes Fujii

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Wes Fujii               *           JAPANESE BUSINESS MOTTO           *
* Boise, Idaho            *        You can buy anything you want        *
* wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com *             with a lot of money             *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
From: hal@mopar.asd.sgi.com (John Hallesy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Three GM cars with similar windshield wiper problems
Date: 3 Sep 92 17:33:01 GMT
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc.  Mountain View, CA

In <1992Sep3.024621.4452@ringer.cs.utsa.edu> tmcdonal@ringer.cs.utsa.edu (Tom McDonald) writes:

>They're a Pontiac Sunbird, GMC van, and a Buick (model - don't know).

I've got the disease; my affected car is an '84 Chevy Cadavalier Wagon.

>These are all several years old, and all have similar problems with
>the wipers going on at random times.  One the Sunbird, when you put
>on a turn signal, the wipers click on.

Yep, happens someimes.  Makes me feel like I'm in a left hand drive car.

> One the Buick, it when a bump is hit, and they turn on for just one cycle.  

Yep, get that too.

> The GMC's wipers just go on at completely random times, and stay on for 
> different lengths of time, each time.

Mine sometimes go on for two or three cycles.  Don't always have to hit a 
bump; it happens most often when I engage the turn signal, though.  My 
windshield washer switch is apparently broken too (although it might be the
pump).  Sometimes my cruise control doesn't work (it's part of the same windshield wiper/washer switch assembly).

I'm too disgusted with it to even bother looking up the parts cost, let alone
the dealer's service charge.  I'll probably ditch the car soon anyway and let
the next guy deal with Mr. GoodWrench.

I once rented an '86 GMC van, and 500 miles into the road trip the cruise
control died (it too had the same integrated turn signal/cruise/windshield 
wiper/washer switch assembly).  No other clue as to what happened; the turn 
signals & windshield wiper/washer stuff still worked.

My '67 Barracuda has NEVER given me this kind of trouble :-)

					--hal@mopar.asd.sgi.com
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Converting to electronic ignition, air-points
Keywords: points ignition, electronic ignition, convert, air-points
Date: 28 Aug 92 12:40:04 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL


 I had '78 Toyotas with electronic ignitions; I guess Oz is on a different
evolutionary track. However, the short life of your points indicates that 
there is a problem either with excess primary current (shorted coil or 
missing ballast resistor or inappropriate coil (self-ballasting replaced 
with one that needs external ballast)) or a shot condenser. The latter
results in pitting and eventually poor contact. The former can be more
destructive.

 The condenser often comes with the points in a little kit (here anyway).
If it has been replaced and the problem persists I'd look to the coil. If
you know the rest of the ignition system is stock then I'd suspect the
coil primary is shorted some.
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
From: wdh@oversteer.Eng.Sun.COM (Dennis Henderson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: GM 2.8L V6 oil leaks
Date: 3 Sep 1992 00:24:50 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems
Distribution: world
Reply-To: wdh@oversteer.Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: oversteer

In 1987 GM redesigned the cylinder head on the 2.8 (and also the 4.3-I think) 
to raise the height of the casting where it meets the valve cover.  This enables 
the gasket to be above the oil level.  The gasket is supposed to last longer 
as it is not constantly submerged in the oil.  

My '85 Pontiac is beginning to leak pretty badly from the valve cover gaskets.

..Dennis Henderson
From: dodeca!clyde@jarthur.Claremont.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Electric vehicle mailing list
Date: 26 Aug 92 18:06:44 GMT
Reply-To: cvisser@ucrmath.ucr.edu ("Clyde R. Visser, KD6GWN")
Organization: Ameritec Corporation
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EV on LISTSERV@sjsuvm1.sjsu.edu -  EV Electric Vehicle Discussion
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transportation primary drive modes such as the venerable internal 
combustion engine.  Those "discussions" are best relegated to the 
appropriate usenet newsgroup.

An  electric vehicle is any vehicle which uses an electric  motor 
as  the primary or sole motive force.  The energy storage  device 
used  to drive said motor can use any technology  including,  but 
not  limited  to,  solar  electric,  electric  battery,  internal 
combustion  engine  coupled  with a electric  generator,  or  any 
combination of these.  Production electric vehicles are currently 
available.  Internal combustion engine vehicles can be  converted 
to electric.  There exist a number of companies who perform this
conversion.  There is also a number of manufacturers of equipment 
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Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: tbigham@shearson.com (Tim Bigham)
Subject: Re: What's a good one??? was Re: CLUB Story
Organization: Lehman Brothers, NY
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 13:13:33 GMT

In article <1992Sep2.092607.282@lrc.edu> little_re@lrc.edu writes:
>> one fitted.  If you really don't want your car (stolen by driving
>> away), make sure it's locked, has a club on the wheel, a high
>> quality alarm that disables the car, is is not parked in a bad place and you 
>> have the lead from the coil in your back pocket, and is filthy dirty with
>> mud and other crud all over it :-).
>
>
>    Allright, so what is the best way to deter a thief??  I've considered
>a Club-type device, but like someone said earlier, just cut the steering
>wheel.  I've considered an alarm, but don't have the money right now.  
>Is there a good, inexpensive way to make a thief look at somebody else's
>car??

	Yes! Park next to a Mercedes, BMW, Porche, Lexus... /:^)
>
>--
>Rich Little		
>LITTLE_RE@LRC.EDU	A hotrodder is someone who is completely 
>Lenoir-Rhyne College	baffled by people who are NOT into cars!
>Hickory, NC		
>


--
Timothy J. Bigham			| All opinions expressed above are my own
Lehman Brothers, Inc.			| and should not be construed as those of 
AMEX Tower, World Financial Center	| my employer.
New York, N.Y. 				| 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: alter@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (Eric Alter)
Subject: Re: IROC smokes on start
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 13:58:48 GMT
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM Rochester

In article <Bto7My.2Hs@acsu.buffalo.edu>, v087mxgb@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (Shawn E Thompson) writes:

..stuff deleted...
|> 
|> neither......its oil trust me I had both manifestations 
|> of this (valve guide leakage and oil return-line leakage)
|> definitely not water...
|> 
|> 
|> Shawn E. Thompson                         | Project Engineer/Mgr  (716)891-3375
|> v087mxgb@ubvms.cc.buffalo.edu             | Leica, Incorporated
|> University @ Buffalo                      | PO Box 123
|> Graduate School of Mechanical Engineering | Buffalo, NY 14240-0123
|> 
..stuff deleted...

I have the same problem on my 5.0L Monte SS.  I've been told it can be worn
valve guides (which I couldn't fix myself, missing proper tools, missing proper
knowhow).  I'd like to followup on the oil return-line leakage as it may be
something I can fix.

Where can I find the oil return-line?  How can I easily test it to see if it
leaks (observation of oil?)?  How can I test it to see if it is plugged or
restricted?

Thanks for any help

-- 

Eric Alter		alter@rchland.vnet.ibm.com
IBM Corporation		Rochester, Mn
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: 323 fails to start
From: <QXF1@psuvm.psu.edu>
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 22:35:43 EDT
Organization: Penn State University

Hey netters, my friend's 88' Mazada 323 sometime fails to start although
most of the time it works just fine.  When it fails, there is no response at
all after turning the key.  Lights on dash lit up but the starter was
working at all.  What could be the trouble?  Thanks.  :-)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: yang@resmel.bhp.com.au (Sam Yang)
Subject: Re: Starter only works when cold
Summary: simple solution = install a "boost relay"
Organization: BHP Research - Melbourne Laboratories, AUSTRALIA
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 23:59:51 GMT

In article <1992Sep02.165255.26657@eng.umd.edu>, hamilton@eng.umd.edu (Andrew W. Hamilton) writes:
> 
>Anyone evry run into this before?  I think I may have the only car in the world
>that starts fine when cold, but refuses to start when warm.
> 

This is a quite common problem. If you go to an auto electrician, they will
most probably install a "boost relay" for you. If you are going to do the 
job yourself, you need to find a relay which can handle 30A current (~$3). 

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.boats
From: goodwin@huey.udel.edu (Thomas Goodwin)
Subject: Re: Cleaning/protecting (canvas) Convertible tops
Keywords: convertible top canvas
Organization: University of Delaware, Newark
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 13:44:05 GMT

In article <1992Aug20.155548.12603@fccc.edu> quillen@orion (John Quillen) writes:
>
>I have a white convertible top on my car that is only a year old and has
>already gotten marks (dirt, etc) which are going to be hard to get out
>(carwash soap and a stiff brush isn't getting it).
>

Whenever the white vinyl seats on my boat get real dirty or black with
mildew I use one of the marine mildew removers and a stiff brissle brush.
The main active ingredient in these mildew removers is clorine bleach.
As an inexpensive alternative you could just mix bleach and water(1 parts
bleach to 3 parts water should do the trick, use more bleach for tougher
stains).  I have actually tried this on white vinyl hard tops on cars
with great results.  I haven't used it on colored vinyl or around fabrics
that might bleach to white.  I would also suggest wearing rubber gloves,
cloths that can get ruined with bleach stains, and eye protection.
Remember to rinse thoroughly with water.  Good luck.

Tom
From: nall@sun8.scri.fsu.edu (John Nall)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Diesel "algae"
Date: 2 Sep 92 19:07:22 GMT
Reply-To: nall@sun8.scri.fsu.edu (John Nall)
Distribution: na
Organization: SCRI, Florida State University

In article <1992Sep2.173444.5864@infonode.ingr.com> brantley@infonode.ingr.com (Dwight D. Brantley) writes:
>In article <1992Sep02.125131.168327@lexmark.com> mollett@lexmark.com (Vic Mollett) writes:
>>I was recently told that algae of some sort can grow in fuel tank of a diesel
>>car or truck.  This seems most strange to me since there is virtually no light
 
 ...  

>I was a "Liquid Fuels Systems Maintenance Specialist" while I was in the Air 
>Force.  We worked mostly with JP4 jet fuel which is essentially kerosene.
>Diesel fuel is also essentially kerosene with lubricants and other additives.
>JP4 is susceptable to a form of bacteria that can live quite well and grow
>like mad with no light at all.  It is a clear or milky sludge which usually
>grows best in storage tanks and then moves on to clog any filter residing

  ...

>I found that a thorough cleaning, and using a good diesel fuel
>additive solved the problem.  These additives are readily available at any
>K-Mart and are designed to keep the fuel system clean and prevent the
>fuel from turning to a gel at very low temperatures. 

   Sounds like a good explanation.  Just one slight quibble - and not from
   any knowledge that *I* have about it, but merely what a mechanic told
   me.  I was talking about adding a diesel additive, and he said that there
   are essentially two types: one to prevent the fuel turning to a gel at a
   very low temperature, and the other to prevent the algae.  He said that
   in the north, the gel is the primary problem, and in the south, where I
   live, that the algae would be the main problem (doesn't usually get all
   that cold here).  He recommended "Redline" additive for preventing algae.

   So two questions:  (1)  Is what he said correct (seems to not be quite
   what Dwight said), and (2) Any disagreements with the "Redling" recomm-
   endation?

   John


--
John W. Nall              | Supercomputer Computations Research Institute
nall@mailer.scri.fsu.edu  | Florida State University, Tallahassee, FL 32306
  Actually, love means that you *do* have to say you're sorry, even
	 if you're really not in the least bit sorry. - (me)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: IROC smokes on start
From: james@koko.csustan.edu (Jonas Grumpy)
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 92 22:28:55 GMT
Organization: CSU Stanislaus

In article <1992Aug27.164356.19492@icf.hrb.com> amk@icf.hrb.com (Andrew M. Kissel) writes:
>In article <1992Aug25.210108.24712@ncrcae.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM>, kent@lightnin.Columbia.NCR.COM (Kent Richardson) writes:
>> Just wondering if any other Camaro owners have the same problem I do with the
>> car smoking a lot at startup. The amount it smokes seems to increase relative
>> to how long the car has sat without running(i.e. next day-smokes a little, 
>> after a week-smokes a LOT). I was wondering what this is and if anything can
>> be done to stop it. I think it may be dirty injectors?? The engine is a 
>> 305 cubic in. (5.0L) with Tuned Port Injection. If it is'nt the injectors I 
>> don't feel like getting a $50 injection purge. 
>> 
>
>Same problem here!!!! In fact, my neighbors IROC does the same thing as well!
>Your not alone here. When I get more info, I'll post to this news group. Its
>definately oil burning, but it not too bad. Yet! 
>-- 
>  /\          | / 
> /__\  |/\/\  |/
>/    \ |  | | | \
>+=====================================================================+
>|  Disclaimer: The views and opinions that have been expressed are my |
>|              own and no one elses. Even though most seem to agree!  |
>+=====================================================================+
>|  - Been dazed and confused for so long                              |
>|         its not true!         -   Led Zeppelin                      |
>+--------------------------------+------------------------------------+
>|  Andrew M. Kissel   WB3CBV     |   EMAIL:      amk@icf.hrb.com      |
>|  HRB Systems Inc.              |   Phone (wk): (814)238-4311 x3317  |
>|  P.O. Box 60, Dept. 333        |                                    |
>|  State College, PA. 16804      |        (fax): (814)234-7720        |
>+================================+====================================+


Its either fuel leaking past injectors or water build up somewhere that
is coming out as steam. Or it could be a million other things!
-- 
 This area is waiting for some witty saying. Shift ZZ ...the quick way out. 
28940375892743587293475982734985723984 bottles of beer on the wall
28940375892743587293475982734985723984 bottles of beer..
take one down, pass it around
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: yang@resmel.bhp.com.au (Sam Yang)
Subject: Converting to electronic ignition
Keywords: air-points, electronic ignition, convertion, Bosch, Piranha
Organization: BHP Research - Melbourne Laboratories, AUSTRALIA
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 06:19:36 GMT


Hello Friends,

This is an enquiry about converting a points ignition system into an
electronic one for a Toyota Corolla 10/1983 KE70 Wagon. The car has
a 1.3L 4 cylinder engine (4KC). The similar article was posted 7 hours
ago but it did not appear in the net.

I drive about 80km/day to work. One of the problem with the car is that
it eat contact points too quickly -- one in about half a year. The
performance degrades noticeably when the points getting older. Someone
suggested me to use a different kind of points -- air points which has
a hole in the platinum. Does anyone has any experience with this kind
of points? Are they any good? What is the best brand I should look for?

To eliminate the problem, I am also considering converting it to
electronic ignition. It looks from some old books that the EI is better
than the PI in every aspect. It would be very helpful for me if you
could comment and/or compare the two ignition systems. How reliable is
the aftermarket EI? What is the expected performance improvement when
converted to EI? Which type of EI is better? Which brand is the best and
which brand should be avoided?

Two brands are available: One from Robert Bosch Australia Pty Ltd, 
A$258 + 20% Tax, and another one from Piranha Electronic Ignition,
A$239. Does anyone has any experience with these two brands? There is
also another one for all 4-cylinder engines selling for A$229 (from
Allisson ?). 

Thank you in advance

Sam
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech