HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: greg@saltydog.dpsi.com (Gregory R. Travis)
Subject: Re: Oil Priming System
Organization: Data Parallel Systems, Inc
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 17:10:19 GMT

Although it may get oil into the passages sooner, none of the pre-lubers
that I've seen will fully float the crankshaft and rods.  To do so would
require an enormous amount of pressure; full floatation usually occurs
only when the crank itself begins to turn and force oil between its journals
and the bearing surfaces.

The same will go for rocker arms, etc.  And, of course, you're not getting any
benefit for the cylinder walls or cam lobes with a preoiler as these
surfaces are splash-lubricated.

Unless you get the surfaces to float fully prior to startup, there is ALWAYS
going to be some metal-metal contact at startup no matter HOW good your
preoiler.  Furthermore, if you drive often (like once a day), the amount
of time from zero to full oil pressure without a preoiler will likely be
very small.  There is almost always enough residual oil left around to almost
fully lubricate the reciprocating parts.  It's only if the engine has been
sitting for a week or so that parts become dry.

I say:  Save your money.

greg
--
Gregory Reed Travis				D  P  S  I
Data Parallel Systems Incorporated   greg@dpsi.com (For MX mailers only!)
Bloomington, IN			     greg@indiana.edu (For the others)
From: mascdb@gdr.bath.ac.uk (C D Burdorf)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: wheel bearings
Date: 10 Dec 92 17:06:13 GMT
Organization: School of Mathematics, University of Bath, UK

In the referenced article, anders@decalp.enet.dec.com (Steve Anders) writes:
>
>In article <1992Dec1.232818.654@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>, sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Steven J Orlin) writes...
>> Can a bad bearing cause the axel to come out of the housing?
>

I had mine pop out on the motorway.  I had to write the car off.

My question is:  HOW DO I KNOW IF I SHOULD HAVE THE BEARING REPLACED?
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Jaguar XJ-12 is a Dog? specs?
Date: 20 Dec 92 14:43:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> > Well, it produces more Hp and torque than any Corvette after the
-> last > big-block up until the ZR-1.  The car was unreliable, but that
-> wasn't > he motor's fault.

> Just as a matter of intrest has anyone got the actuall specs for
> output of a XJ-12.....in BHP please.

from Colin Campbell's "The Sports Car - It's Design and Performance":

285 HP DIN @ 5800 RPM
294 ft-lb @ 3500

 That's about the same as a friend's '90 Corvette, except the Chevy's
torque and HP curves are very flat and peak lower, giving a more
flexible engine.  The XJ motor had 9:1 compression but required 97
octane fuel; the Chevy has 9.25 compression and will run on 85 octane
dog piss.  Both engines have electronic fuel injection; the Jag used
Lucas, the Chevy uses Delco.

 From my general data file, I have the figure of 680 pounds for the
Jaguar engine, which has an aluminum block and heads.  The 350 Chevy
in the 'vette has an iron block and aluminum heads, and weighs 550
pounds (25 less than the iron head motors).

 I'd give the nod to the Chevy - more power, more torque, flatter
powerband, less weight, runs on lower octane fuel - and Jay's 'vette
gets 24mpg with the cruise control set at 65mph.


 The Jag motor came out in '71, while the Chevy came out in '55.
However, the V12 is structurally very similar to the inline six, which
is contemporary to the original Chevy.  The 12 also had Heron style
cylinder heads in the early models and May style in the later ones;
these are not particularly efficient combustion chambers.  A major
advantage of more cylinders is to allow more valve area per cubic inch
displacement; the Jag's valves are quite small.  Looking at the cutaways
of the Jag engine in the book, it is apparent performance played little
part in Jaguar's plan.  It appears the engine was designed mainly for
smoothness and the chic of having twelve cylinders.


 No wonder people yank 'em and drop in Chevy motors.

=======================================================================
can you help me...help me get out of this place?...slow sedation...
ain't my style, ain't my pace...giving me a number...NINE, SEVEN, EIGHT
(Nazareth)               XJ900 TURBO at 15psi          DoD# 978  KotFAQ
=======================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Jag auto trans
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 15 Dec 92 13:27:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> The Wall Street Journal had an article about memorable dogs. As I
-> recall, they listed the Pacer, the Fiero and the XJ-12.
->
-> It made mention of making the compartment too small for a larger
-> engine.

 Colin Campbell's book "The Racing Sports Car" fairly swoons over the
XJ12.  While describing the development of the car and engine, he
mentions a DOHC layout had been seriously considered - to the point of
building at least one running prototype engine - before someone realized
it was too wide to fit between the front wheels of the car and allow
room for them to turn to steer.  In typical British fashion, Campbell
implies Jaguar felt the SOHC was enough engine anyway, and the DOHC was
just a test.

 Ri-ight.  Typical British understatement.  Some engineers probably had
their ears cut off when the upper management found out they'd spent
thousands of pounds developing a motor that could never have fit in the
car in the first place.   Har, har...
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Sudden stalls in 83 Stanza...Freeway speed...Diagnosis apprecia
From: stubbs@hawk.cs.ukans.edu (Jerry Stubbs)
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1992 14:59:22 GMT
Organization: University of Kansas Computer Science Dept


I had an '81 Stanza with very similar symptoms: stalled on highway,
tach sudden;y dropped to 0, even though the engine was in gear and
still turning, would cool off and run a bit more, I could cool it
faster by pouring solvent on the distributor.  It tourned out to be
the matchbooked sized module inside the distributor: $160 from 
the dealer. I think the car had 6x,000 miles on it. I think whatever
your problem is, it is probably on the ignition.


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: vetter@mtu.edu (STEVEN J. VETTER)
Subject: Re: Timing Belt on Civic Si.
Organization: Michigan Technological University
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 14:33:49 GMT

exuptr@exu.ericsson.se (Patrick Taylor) writes:
>In article <1992Dec16.162730.2867@mtu.edu> vetter@mtu.edu (STEVEN J. VETTER) writes:
>
>
>>  If you have a manual tranny, you can engage the 
>>  clutch quickly and reduce the beating the valves and piston`s take, if it's 
>>  an automatic, it will take you longer to take it out of gear and the damage
>>  will most likely be greater.  
>
>I would think the thing to do would be to shut the engine OFF immediately
>(AND disengage the clutch if manual).


  If the timing belt breaks, the engine wont be running in order to be shut off!
  However, so long as the clutch is engaged or the car is in gear, the road will
  be turning the engine.

-- 
Steve Vetter     DISCLAIMER-  The opinions expressed here are not those of
vetter@mtu.edu                my employer,  because I don`t have one yet.  If  
                              you wish for these opinions to be your company's,
Damn it's Cold!!!             or not, send e-mail to :  vetter@mtu.edu
From: rickc@scotty.TEK.COM
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Oil pressure question?
Keywords: oil pressure
Date: 15 Dec 92 22:59:52 GMT
Reply-To: rickc@scotty.TEK.COM
Organization: WV

> I've got a question about the relationship of oil pressure to volume.
> I've got an '84 Bronco II w/ 2.8L.  I had the engine rebuilt (it has now
> got about 10,000 miles on it), it was bored out and I had a new cam put in.
> Anyway, the oil pressure is higher now (than originally) and it seems to
> *increase* when the oil starts getting low.  Is this normal, or do I have a
> flaky sending unit?  I would've thought it would *decrease*.
> 
> -- Cris

   I have an '84 bronco II 2.8L also, just rebuilt it over thanksgiving
holiday,
   It had 125k miles on it, and the block was in execellent shape (it pays to 
   change the oil every 3k). It had a very minor cylinder ridge, so I just went
    with (std) rings and bearings (mains/cam). Now my oil pressure runs a bit
    higher, but I only have 1k miles on the rebuild and its still tight.
 
   The higher oil pressure after the rebuild makes sense, but I would
still think
   it would drop alittle when low?? Mine always did before the rebuild. 
   
   The oil pressure sensor is on the bottem front rightside of the engine,
   (has a single wire going to it)  if you are wondering about yours you
could     		   aways replace it. I wouldn't think it would cost
much....but it is a Ford.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz)
Subject: Re: Cummins
Organization: Naval Ocean Systems Center, San Diego
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1992 21:50:51 GMT

In article <1gtge6INNq12@seven-up.East.Sun.COM> jimv@hienergy.Eng.Sun.COM (Jim Vienneau  - Sun Microsystems) writes:

>Too bad it's all in a Dodge pickup though. I'd lay odds that the Ford will
>still be around long after that Chrysler "MBA designed" body squeeks, rattles, and
>rusts itself to death (not to mention the cheezy interior). No doubt about it,
>the Cummins is one hell of an engine, but it's only one part of the overall
>package.

I dunno, Jim...  The 'cheezy' interior might crack and fade but my '90 W350
hasn't shed its skin like similar-vintage Fords... not a spot of rust after 3
Winters in the frozen wasteland of Rome, NY, either...  Similar vintage
Ford/GM-owners *around here* cannot make similar claims...  As for the engine
being only one part of the package, yes, I'll go along with that, however you
neglected that fact that from the frame to the axles the Cummins-powered Dodge
has the arguably-stoutest, most bullet-proof running gear in the light-truck
industry.  Facts -- the DANA-70 is more rugged than Ford/GM rear axles (larger
ring gear diameter), there is no stronger transfer case than the New Process
205 in the industry, Dodge uses a DANA-60 frontend (heavier-duty than most
3/4-ton *rear*ends), Dodge has the most rigid frame in the industry, the Getrag
360 is only available on the Cummins-powered Dodge.  Face it, the hardest
*WORKING* WORKTRUCK is a Dodge D/W 250/350...  If you want a 'cute', 'gimmicky'
interior and a boulevard cruiser-ride, look elsewhere... Dodge builds
no-nonsense worktrucks.  H*ll, I had to compete in the super-modified,
unlimited class at the first truckpull I enterred...  my *STOCK* W350 beat-out
half the field of *PURPOSE-BUILT* pulling trucks... with *street tires*, no
less...

Walt 'death-before-gas-pigs' K.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bob1@cos.com (Bob Blackshaw)
Subject: Re: Different synthetic oil Brands!!!
Organization: Corporation for Open Systems
Distribution: na 
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 17:48:54 GMT

In <28196@oasys.dt.navy.mil> odell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Bernard O'Dell) writes:

>Supposedly, synthetics will NOT extend your engine oil change
>intervals--basically the removal of contaminents in the oil;
>however the synthetics evidently lubricate better, will not
>negatively respond to high temperatures within the engine, and
>other advantages that appear to warrant their use.

>Again, one corvette model, and the Aston-Martin come from the
>factory with synthetics-I believe Mobil I, or maybe Mobil I-
>Advanced Formula?

>I read two articles about the synthetics as opposed to regular
>or conventional oils-"Snake Oil" in the Corvette quarterly, and
>another article in I think it was "Automobile", both of which
>has IMHO a lot of people thinking about the use of synthetics.

>What are the pros and cons of synthetics versus conventional oils?

>One pro is superior lubrication at all temperatures-maybe longer
>engine life--

>One con  could be the higher initial cost of the synthetics, but
>that could be countered by longer life--life cycle costs.

>Then, when you compare the synthetics out there--Which is the best?

>Mobil I Advance Formula? The new Castrol 5w-50 Syntec? and others
>that have been on the market for awhile.

>Would you only use the synthetics in a new car, or switch on a car
>that is used? Why? Would it hurt to switch? I understand that you
>can mix synthetics with conventional oil.

All I can offer is that I converted to Mobil 1 when my 89 Probe had
about 25,000 miles on it. After about a month, my gas mileage went
from an average 29.5/gal to 31.5/gal (at least that was before they
put this oxygenated horse urine in the pumps). If I get longer
engine life, its a bonus since I figure the better gas mileage
pays for the higher price. Just one man's experience.


>What do you think?  Any experiences or articles out there that
>could shed some light on this issue?

Bob.
From: wb8foz@skybridge.SCL.CWRU.Edu (David Lesher)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Jag auto trans
Date: 13 Dec 1992 19:12:38 GMT
Organization: NRK Clinic for habitual NetNews abusers - Beltway Annex
Reply-To: wb8foz@skybridge.scl.cwru.edu (David Lesher)
NNTP-Posting-Host: skybridge.scl.cwru.edu

Others said:

# I was quite careful to use the word "rumour"
# as one of the Brit motoring monthlies some years ago reported , as I 
# remember, one of the XJ6 team as saying that something about the engine
# compartment had been deliberately designed to prevent the Rover lump
# replacing the straight 6 at the factory without significant tooling.

The Wall Street Journal had an article about memorable dogs. As
I recall, they listed the Pacer, the Fiero and the XJ-12. 

It made mention of making the compartment too small for a larger
engine.
--
A host is a host from coast to coast..wb8foz@skybridge.scl.cwru.edu
& no one will talk to a host that's close..........................
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jm@woody.mitre.org (Jeffrey P. Manosh)
Subject: transmission quirk
Organization: Research Computer Facility, MITRE Corporation, Bedford, MA
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 21:36:40 GMT

I own a 1988 Olds 98 Regency Brougham. It has I believe a 4 speed automatic
transmission.(There are two "drive" positions, the overdrive having a circle
around the "D". There seems to be a problem when driving the car at a steady
speed on level ground around 50 mph, and when a gradual incline approaches
in the road. The transmission feels like it attempts to downshift to 3rd, and
as it does, it does so indecisively, hicupping several times between 4th and 
3rd before it settles into 3rd. The jolting can be avoided by either driving
the car in "D" instead of "circle D", or pressing on the accelerator more
strongly at the onset of a hill. 
   My mechanic adjusted a "torque converter switch", but this did not
help. He referred me to a tranmission specialist.  The tranmission specialist
wants to connect the car to a diagnostic computer for $40 to find the problem.
I suspect its something simple, like a vaccum line or modulator valve.
 Can anyone out there give me some advice as to what may be the problem?
I would really appreciate some tips. Please send email as I don't regularly
read this newsgroup.
                     Thanks
                     Jeff Manosh
From: cwilder@eis.calstate.edu (Charlotte Wilder)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Power Steering Assist
Date: 15 Dec 92 23:58:50 GMT
Organization: Calif State Univ/Electronic Information Services

Is there any way to modify the power assist to the steering to suit
one's needs?  I am looking at a Ford Mustang (93) that I am thinking
of purchasing and one of the things I'm wondering about is decreasing
the amount of power assist to the steering, maybe by 1/2 or so... is
this possible (to do it cheaply? <100 bucks?)?  This may be a major
consideration in purchasing the car... please email replies.
From: forbesm@atlantis.CS.ORST.EDU (Mark Forbes)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Sudden stalls in 83 Stanza...Freeway speed...Diagnosis apprecia
Date: 12 Dec 92 02:25:25 GMT
Article-I.D.: leela.1992Dec12.022525.18881
Organization: Computer Science Outreach Services - Oregon State University

Exactly the same thing happened to a roommate's Datsun B210. After much 
mysteriousity, it turned out to be a piece of cardboard (legacy of an improvised
funnel) floating around in the gas tank. It would occasionally float down under
the fuel intake tube and seal off the fuel flow. When the engine was stopped,
the cardboard would drift off after a few minutes. Start up and drive away,
ten miles later (or 50 feet) it would happen again. I dropped the tank and
flushed it out twice before we got it all. 

Your comment that you had a strong smell of gas has me puzzled. There is an
alternate possibility; dirt in the carburetor, assuming it has one. That 
could prop open the float bowl valve, overflowing the bowl and flooding the
engine. You'd get real rough operation, stalling, and it would be better
when cold. 

If it's fuel-injected, check for a stuck or intermittently stuck-open 
cold start injector. Failing all that, I'd go for the ignition theory.

Mark G. Forbes | forbesm@atlantis.cs.orst.edu
Corvallis, OR  | 503 757 8416 work phone    | Hardware R & D
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: yp@cbnews.cb.att.com (yagnesh.pathak)
Subject: Oilpan Gasket in Corolla
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 19:31:04 GMT
Keywords: Gasket, Silicon, oilpan


Folks:

I have a 85 Toyota Corolla and have been noticing some oil drops in my 
garage lately. Took it to a Goodyear guy and he said that "It needs a 
oilpan gasket. We recommend that you take your car to an authorized 
dealer". Fine. 

I called on dealer and he quotes $19 for the part (oilpan gasket) and some 
$140 for labor. When I call this other place, i was told that this car 
does not have a oilpan gasket - all it has is silicon!!!

Any expert on this? If it is silicon, this involves removing the oilpan, 
scrubb the old silicon and put in new silicon compound. How much work 
is this? I guess removing oilpan means draining all the oil also. 

I would appreciate any tips on this. Has anyone done this job or 
it is recommended to be left to the dealer?

Thanks

Yagnesh Pathak
yp\@cbosgd.att.com

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bowmanj@csn.org (Jerry Bowman)
Subject: Re: transmission quirk
Organization: University of Colorado Boulder, OCS
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 18:14:09 GMT

In article <3207@contex.contex.com> frank@marvin.contex.com (Frank Perdicaro) writes:
>In article <1992Dec17.213640.22309@linus.mitre.org> jm@woody.mitre.org (Jeffrey P. Manosh) writes:
>>I own a 1988 Olds 98 Regency Brougham. It has I believe a 4 speed automatic
>>transmission.(There are two "drive" positions, the overdrive having a circle
>>around the "D". There seems to be a problem when driving the car at a steady
>>speed on level ground around 50 mph, and when a gradual incline approaches
>>in the road. The transmission feels like it attempts to downshift to 3rd, and
>>as it does, it does so indecisively, hicupping several times between 4th and 
>
>Olds engines never bolted to TH700s so you either have an olds/TH200
>combo or a chevy/TH700 combo.  Either will have a locking converter.
>It might be that your TPS of MAP is bad, causing the converter to lock
>and unlock.  
>
>I will guess that with the 98 you have a chevy 305 w/TH700;  put a 
>diagnostic light on the lock signal lead from the computer and see if
>it is a lock/unlock problem.  
>
>Converter only locks in 4th, so holding 3rd, as you said, would
>eliminate the problem.
>
   I,ve never heard of a TH700 enlighten me  ( not a smart ass remark )>-- 
>	 Frank E Perdicaro, Systems Admin, etc.		Xyvision Color Systems
>      Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.		101 Edgewater Drive
>   inhouse: frank@marvin, x5572				Wakefield MA
>outhouse: frank@contex.com, 617-245-4100x5572		018801285


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sukenick@sci.ccny.cuny.edu (SYG)
Subject: Help with timing!
Keywords:  267 V8 has no timing marks ?!?!?!
Organization: City College of New York - Science Computing Facility
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1992 16:52:01 GMT

After tuning up my car, I went to check the timing with my trusty light and...
no timing gauge!
I can see the mark on the fly wheel,  but nothing all around it
that even barely resembles a gauge.  There is a little tube
pointing to the flywheel;  tube is  vertical at the very top.
Do I junk my timing light?
Is this for a magnetic probe or something like that?
If I buy an instrument to set the timing, is it $$$$$$?
(So should I go to my frienly neighborhood repair shop and
hope they do it right)
or can someone recommend  some method to check the timing?

The engine is  '79  Chevy  267  V8   (little tiny V8)
with absolutely no fancy junk; not even a computer :-)
( just a HEI ignition system that makes one heck of a spark!)

If you answer, I'd appreciate e-mail as our
rec.autos.tech newsfeed seems to have dwindled :-(

					-george
					sukenick@sci.sci.ccny.cuny.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Help w/ talking car
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 16 Dec 92 14:23:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


->   My girlfriend has a mid-eighties Chrystler E-class and yes, it
-> talks ("Your door is ajar.  Please fasten your seatbelts.")

 I know that, you idiot.  If you're so goddamned smart, why don't YOU
close the door?



 <sigh>  I think the designers attacked the wrong problem, there.

=======================================================================
can you help me...help me get out of this place?...slow sedation...
ain't my style, ain't my pace...giving me a number...NINE, SEVEN, EIGHT
(Nazareth)               XJ900 TURBO at 15psi          DoD# 978  KotFAQ
=======================================================================
                                                                                              
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jnissen@austin.ibm.com ()
Subject: Re: Help with engine diagnosis
Originator: jnissen@jnissen.austin.ibm.com
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 00:09:06 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: IBM Austin Advanced Workstation Division


In article <BzEuA1.1B6@nic.umass.edu>, rzottola@umassmed.UMMED.EDU (Ralph Zottola) writes:
> I need help diagnosing an engine problem.  I have a 1987 Chrysler
> LeBaron with a 2.2L turbo engine.  When the engine is hot, it hesitates
> badly with normal acceleration.  It is fine cold, at idle hot or cold,
> with heavy acceleration, or at speeds above 55mph.  It seems as if it
> cuts out to shift when rpm is below 2500.  It does this in neutral as
> well if I race the engine.  I had the fuel pump and filter replaced one
> month ago.  The timing was also done at that time.
> 
> Any suggestions as to where I should begin to look?
> --ralph

Have you checked the throttle position sensor?  A partially bad sensor
may be giving the computer a bad feedback signal and then your problems show up.
Is the turbo charger healthy?  The bearings making any sound? 
 
I had a '87 2.2 turbo also but the only thing I ever needed to do to that car
was give it a complete tune-up (cap, wires, plugs, rotor, filters etc...)
at 50,000 miles.  At 60,000 miles the turbo started to make a faint noise
and I off loaded the car at 70,000 miles.  I often wondered what would happen
when turbo bearings go out.  Perhaps the midrange response would be the
first to go.

Any net advice on a turbo going out?
-- 
 _/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/
 _/      Jim Nissen                jnissen@jnissen.austin.ibm.com  _/
 _/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos