HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Tire gauges (was: Re: ME3
Date: 29 Dec 92 20:21:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Ye Olde Bailey BBS - Houston, TX - 713-520-1569
Reply-To: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 


   >>>Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 15:59:14 GMT




                                           tire
JEQ>>>Any suggestions where to get an accurate gauge?  Everything I see for sal
   >>>retail is the same old junk.  In theory, all but the cheapest rod-type
   >>>gauges (is there a name for these?) should be relatively accurate,
   >>>since they depend only on the geometry of the thing.  My wife, unfortunat
   >>>insists she can only read dial-type gauges; those I've seen have been
   >>>pretty cheesy, and I don't want to spend $20 for a good one unless it can
   >>>handle glove-box temperature extremes without dying...
   >>>--
   >>>Jonathan E. Quist                              INTERACTIVE Systems Corpor
   >>>jeq@i88.isc.com  '71 CL450-K4 "Gleep", DoD #094        Naperville, IL


  Milton probably makes one of the best...


 * SLMR 2.1a * I put spot remover on my dog....Spots gone!
   
----
+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Ye Olde Bailey BBS   713-520-1569 (V.32bis) 713-520-9566 (V.32bis)     |
|   Houston,Texas          yob.sccsi.com       Home of alt.cosuard       |
+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: colclasr@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu (George Colclasure)
Subject: Re: HELP: Identify Alum Con Rod Brand
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 03:42:12 GMT

ljb@parkcity.dr.att.com (BLO54620-BonhamLJ(DR2194)240) writes:

>In article <1992Dec29.162936.1@sscvx1.ssc.gov>, schludermann@sscvx1.ssc.gov writes:
>|> What Brand of Aluminum connecting Rods are these, For a big block chevy. They
>|> have the Letters BRC cast into the rod bearing cap.
>|> 
>|> Kris


>Kris,
>You're going to hate me for this, but the brand of those rods IS "BRC".
>They produce a full line of steel and Aluminum con-rods and some really nice
>pistons and cranks too.  I believe they are based in Kalifornia, but I could
>be wrong.  You might try calling a few race shops around your area and see
>if they know how to get in touch with BRC.

>Good luck.

>"If your in control, you're going to slow."
>			-- Parnelli Jones 


To the best of my knowledge, BRC stands for Brooks Racing Components.
Look at the Advertisers Index in the back of the N.H.R.A.'s (National
Hot Rod Association) weekly newspaper "National Dragster" for their
ad and address.

Brooks Racing Components makes aluminum rods for various engines in the
500 to 3000 horsepower range (from  sportsman classes to top fuel nitro-
methane classes).

                                B.F.D. Racing
                         383 - 400 - 413 - 426 - 440
        Sixties and Seventies Big-Block Wedge-Head MOPARs our specialty.
   
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ming@enel.ucalgary.ca (Yang Ming)
Subject: Re: Trouble with my 85 Pulsar...
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 92 21:14:34 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: ECE Department, U. of Calgary, Calgary, Alberta, Canada

In article <1hn934INNdp1@msuinfo.cl.msu.edu> srivastk@egr.msu.edu (Aseem Ku Srivastava) writes:
>Hello all, happy holidays and all that.
>
>I own a 85 Nissan Pulsar, and the animal died on me just two nights
>ago on I-96. It might be the clutch - I'm not sure. When I press the
>accelerator, the revs go up, but that doesn't translate to power. It
>seems almost as if the clutch is pressed in, even while it isn't. I
>wonder if someone out there knows what the problem might be. Any
>information on diagnosis/cure/costs will be much appreciated.
>
>Thanks in advance to all the kind souls who read/respond to this SOS.
>
>-Aseem

Seems to me that your clutch cable needs some adjustment, if your clutch
has not totally burnt down due to friction heat as the two pieces
did not totally get engaged. If the clutch is burnt down, I guess you
have to pay 300 to 500 bucks to fix it.

Ming.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: psanders@ll.mit.edu (Pete Sanders)
Subject: Before Buying Japanese.
Originator: psanders@ll.mit.edu (Pete Sanders)
Organization: MIT Lincoln Laboratory
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 92 17:54:38 GMT


Before buying a new Japanese car please read:

	JAPANYES, (2nd edition)
 
monu6.cc.monash.edu.au. The most recent version is in pub/nihongo.

	(ftp site)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: chucko@kronos.arc.nasa.gov (Chuck Fry)
Subject: Re: 3rd party source for 1981 Accord head bolts?
Organization: Recom Technologies, NASA Ames Research Center, Moffett Field, CA
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 20:17:46 GMT

In article <1h4v30INN891@tamsun.tamu.edu> dlb5404@tamsun.tamu.edu (Daryl Biberdorf) writes:
>I am currently in the process of rebuilding my 1981 Accord with the
>1751cc CVCC engine.  I would like to replace the 10 cylinder head bolts
>because of the bolt heads.  In short, Honda used a *12-point* 10mm bolt 
>head on these years, and they're sort of flimsy.  I rounded a couple of
>them off just a bit while removing them, and I'd like to start with
>fresh bolts going back in.  However, Honda wants $113.00 for the set of
>ten bolts (gack, choke, gasp).

>So -- the big question: do any aftermarket suppliers for Honda parts offer
>a replacement for the set of Honda head bolts?  It'd be *REALLY* cool if
>they made them with a 6-point bolt head instead of the 12-point ones
>Honda put on there.  

How did you manage to strip a cylinder head bolt??  Did you use a
cheap or wrongly sized wrench?

Generally speaking, OEM cylinder head bolts are going to be pretty
damned strong.  You sure won't find cheap metal used here.  Because of
the stresses involved, many manufacturers now recommend using head
bolts only once.

If you are really dead set against the Honda bolts, you might see if
ARP makes anything appropriate.  (Check Hot Rod magazine's ads for
their address.)  Failing that, you *might* find that someone like SPS
makes something appropriate, but I'd doubt it.

Definitely spend some money on the right sized socket from a good tool
maker.  Craftsman is the minimum acceptable quality level, and Snap-On
might not be out of line.

 -- Chuck Fry  Chucko@ptolemy.arc.nasa.gov  Chucko@westmark.stanford.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: cleaning solvents
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 2 Jan 93 16:56:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


 "On the twelfth day of Christmas, my true love gave to me..."

 I'm now the happy owner of a solvent tank.  My wife picked it up at a
company auction for $40.  It's made of 1/8 steel plate with a
counterbalanced lid and even has provision for a 6" vent stack.  It
apparently was filled with lacquer thinner before we got it.  (phew!)
It holds approximately 50 gallons. (200 liters)

 For some reason it doesn't have a drain plug, which I will remedy
before I put it into use.  The question is, what do I put in it?  It
will be primarily used for cleaning cylinder heads and engine blocks.
I could get some appropriate heating elements if required, but I'd just
as soon use it cold.

 There are, so far as I know, no local environmental restrictions on
solvents.
From: twj2@jaguar.uofs.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Chevy Th350 problems
Date: 3 Jan 93 17:01:54 GMT
Organization: University of Scranton

Hello:

    Here's my problem:
       I have just installed a use turbo 350 in my 1973 chevy malibu.

  the transmission seems to work fine with one exception - it does not

want to shift by itself in drive.  Shifting manually, it works fine.

I've been looking at it with a mechanic and we checked the vacuum, the

modulator, and the governor, all appeared to be OK.  The trans will shift

on its own in drive, but you have to rev it WAY up there to get it to go.

I tried it out last night, and the kickdown works just fine, and it'll

upshift on its own, but normal drive is still a problem.  Adjusting the 

modulator had little effect.  

Any help that anyone can offer would be greatly appreciated.

tom janofsky - univ. of scranton
please e-mail responses to
twj2@jaguar.uofs.edu
From: to@teecs.UUCP (Norman To)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 19:22:13 GMT
Subject: Water Vapor
Organization: Litton Systems, Toronto ONT
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

White smoke comes out of the tail pipe evey time I start up
my car in a cold morning.  I've been hearing this is the
vapor of water which condense at the engine over night.
Are there any explanation for this?

Norman To

o----------------------------------------------------------------o
        Know thyself.  If you need help, call the C.I.A.
o________________________________________________________________o
From: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Timing chain replacement
Date: 30 Dec 92 20:01:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Ye Olde Bailey BBS - Houston, TX - 713-520-1569
Reply-To: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 


  >>>Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1992 22:53:18 GMT

ZM>>>        Does anyone know if the cylinder head needs to be removed to
  >>>replace the timing chains on the Mitsubishi 2.6 liter engine?



  >>>The car is a '84 Mitsubishi Starion Turbo with 112K miles. The 2.6 liter
  >>>engine has been used in other cars - Mitsu light trucks and Chrylser produ
  >>>(Conquest, Plymouth Voyager/Dodge Caravan).


ZM>>>Has any one done this job and can give me any suggestions and or pointers?
  >>>Response via email is preferable. Thanks in advance.

ZM>>>Zafer Mehmood

Yes. It is extremely difficult. Your problem is more likely the
tensioners than the chain. If your not a mechanic I would'nt recommend
you doing it. But if you insist........

The gasket set will include new partial gaskets for the head..you trim
off the old and silcone the corners...then glue on the new gaskets.
Ditto on the oil pan most likely.
The head DOES NOT have to removed. Valve cover does.
IF you were just doing the cam chain you could break open the old chain
and splice in the new and then just rotate the engine slowly until its
all in place.
PAY REAL CLOSE ATTENTION TO THE COUNTERSHAFT TIMING SEQUENCE. heck, ALL
THE TIMING SEQUENCES! You don't want to do this TWICE!!!!
Replace all the shaft seals while your in there...
Watch the length of the bolts...some may be just a bit longer than
others...they won't interchange without damaging something...
Thats the basics...
                                                Don


 * SLMR 2.1a * I put spot remover on my dog....Spots gone!
                                                                                                           
----
+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Ye Olde Bailey BBS   713-520-1569 (V.32bis) 713-520-9566 (V.32bis)     |
|   Houston,Texas          yob.sccsi.com       Home of alt.cosuard       |
+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: tbmorris@acs.ucalgary.ca (Thomas B. Morrison)
Subject: temperature block heater heats block to
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 92 02:52:35 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: The University of Calgary, Alberta

Hi there,

It is -30 degrees C outside.  None of the cars are starting even though
they are all "plugged in". 

Two questions:
1) What does the "block heater" heat, engine block, anti-freeze, and so on.
   I really want to know.

2) To what temperature does the block heater heat?  A friend of mine said
   "To a temperature such that the car can start".  Numbers please.

E-mail or post.  Thanks.  My guess is the engine block is heated to
the -10 to -15 C range. 
-- 
Tom Morrison 
Morrison Scientific Problem Solving
Suite 400, 604-1st Street S.W., Calgary, Alberta, T2P 1M7, CANADA
Internet: tbmorris@acs.ucalgary.ca
From: murthy+@EDRC.CMU.EDU (Sesh Murthy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: exploding rotor
Date: 21 Dec 92 22:31:34 GMT
Organization: Carnegie Mellon University

I took another look at the distributor cap today.  I have concluded that
the cap was not on completely.  hence the spark from the coil 
had to jump a gap to get to the rotor.  I feel that this caused a heat 
build up at the cap near the base of the coil, and also caused the rotor 
to heat up.  The rotor broke up either because it was touching the
side of cap or because of the heat.  The distributor cap caught fire at
the exact point where the coil sits.  Once the rotor broke up the distributor
cap broke too.

BTW the whole cap did not go so there really was no explosion.  Only
1/4 of the side of the cap went.  A gasoline explosion whould have taken
out the entire cap. 

Is this plausible.  I am scared that the same thing will happen again soon
and am worried about driving the car long distance.

Sesh Murthy
PS: The car is a 1984 Buick century, 3.0l V6 with a 2BBl carburettor.  
The rotor broke up and took out a quarter of the side of distributor cap.  
The top of the cap was untouched by the explosion but it caught fire
at the point the rotor touches the coil.  I put out the fire immediately 
so the coil was untouched.  The sides of the distributor cap were scuffed indicating that the rotor had rubbed against it.

I was driving at 70 mph uphill when this happened.  
The car has 103000 miles on it.

Regarding the mechanic replacing the distributor for no reason:  I have 
an opinion from the Buick mechanic who examined it that the distributor
is fine, has no play, is not warped and has no problems with the bushings.

I called MBNA the issuer of the visa and they are placing the amount 
under dispute and the merchant is not going to be paid.  Also I called
the PA attorney general office and they are going to investigate this.
No 1 Auto service in Allentown is going to regret the day they fleeced me.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: gturrell@bmdhh256.bnr.ca (Graham Turrell)
Subject: Motorsports Telemetry info request
Keywords: telemetry,Formula1,Indycar
Organization: BNR-Europe-Limited, Maidenhead, England
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 11:19:41 GMT


Hi,
	I am trying to find out about the use of on-board computers
	and telemetry systems used in F1 / Indy cars. This includes
	history & regulations governing their use (if any) as well as
	the technical aspects.

	Does anybody out there know where I can get hold of this kind
	of info ?

-- 
---------------------------------ooooOOOOoooo-----------------------------------
#include <standard_disclaimer>

#define NAME Graham_Turrell
#define MOTTO It could be worse, it could be raining.
---------------------------------ooooOOOOoooo-----------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: Skinny Puppy <htunca@ncsa.uiuc.edu>
Subject: Exhaust pipe - how to remove?
X-Xxdate: Mon, 28 Dec 92 13:19:25 GMT
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d11
Organization: ncsa
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 19:19:33 GMT
X-Xxmessage-Id: <A764AF5D6F01149F@thunderbird.ncsa.uiuc.edu>

This weekend I was trying to remove the exhaust pipe from the
muffler on a 91 Dodge Caravan.  I was able to remove the U clamp
along with the exhaust body mounts, however when I tried to
actually remove the pipe from the muffler it just wouldn't
move.  It looks like corrosion might be causing this.  What are
the methods or tools used to remove a corroded exhaust
pipe?  Any help is appreciated.

Thanks.
____________________         __           ____________________
\_____________      \       /_ \         /      _____________/ 
 \_____________      \_______/  \_______/      _____________/
  \_________________________      _________________________/ 
                           /______\
   Han Tunca
   National Center for Supercomputing Applications
   htunca@ncsa.uiuc.edu
From: braverman@mtechca.maintech.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Taurus stalls in Park
Date: 21 Dec 92 09:51:19 PST
Organization: MAINTECH, A division of Volt Delta Resources,Inc. Orange, CA.

I have an '88 Ford Taurus, 3.0L V6.  About a month ago, the battery died.
After replacing the battery, my wife complained that the car started stalling
when she shifts back into Park (auto trans.).  She claims she had a similar
problem a while back after she had some repairs done that required the battery
to be disconnected, so she took it back to the machanic who "jiggled on 
some wires".  After that, everything was fine.  Well, that fix sounded pretty
dubious to me -- I figured it might have been something related to the 
computer having to "re-learn" the engine, so I tried disconnecting the
battery and letting the car idle for a few minutes.  That didn't seem to 
change anything.  The engine always starts fine, and seems to run ok during
normal driving.  Sometimes, it may stall if it's shifted into Reverse or
Drive when cold.  The most persistent symptom is that, after driving for 
several miles or more, putting the transmission into Park causes the engine
to stall.

Any ideas?

thanks,
jb-- 


+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+
+ Joel Braverman                               e-mail: braverman@maintech.com +
+ MAINTECH, a division of Volt Delta Resources, Inc.                          +
+ 2401 North Glassell Street                    voice:  (714) 921 7649        +
+ Orange, CA  92665-2705                          fax:  (714) 921 7510        +
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Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: All-Wheel Drive/4x4 Questions.
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 28 Dec 92 13:00:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


->      HOLD IT!! You mean there's a 440cid Mopar-powered AWD
->      British car with a pile of luxury options? WOW!
->
->      ...Now, if you have any information about production
->      numbers, books about that car (hmm, was Jensen Interceptor
->      a coupe?) or _anything_ , please let me know.
->
->      Just got interested... ;-)

 Late 1960s.  Two or four door sedan, I think.  The Interceptor was the
plain RWD, the FF was the AWD.  There used to be an Interceptor running
around here locally.

 Production wasn't high, of course.  I don't have any real figures.  Is
there a Jensen club?  They might have exact specs and production
numbers.
From: pjay@terapin.com (Paul Arnold)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: 55 Chevy - No reverse
Date: 2 Jan 93 23:20:41 PST
Organization: BBS

I have a 55 Chevy car.  It's a Bel Air with a stock 235 engine, and a
powerglide transmission.

Until the other day, this car ran perfect.   I had come home from the store,
and put the car into reverse to back it into place, and the car went nowhere.
I can put the transmission INTO reverse, but it just doesn't move (engage?)  It
as though it's still in neutral.  The car runs fine in drive (hi and low), and
shifts just fine.
So,  my question is, what could possibly be wrong with the transmission? 
Anyone out there with ANY ideas?

  --Paul   (pjay@terapin.com)
From: "tom betz" <tom.betz@execnet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: timing belt? chain on sen
Date: 22 Dec 92 12:06:00 EST
Reply-To: "tom betz" <tom.betz@execnet.com>
Distribution: rec
Organization: Executive Networks Information

Quoth Donald Wendel regarding TIMING BELT? CHAIN ON SEN on 12-19-92:

DW>  >>>Subject: timing belt? chain on sentra
DW>  >>>Date: 12 Dec 92 03:21:11 GMT
DW>HE>>>I have 90 Sentra. Its reached 60,000 miles. Is it
DW>  >>>necessary to have timing belt-chain change? Manual
DW>  >>>mentions nothing about it.
DW>Its a belt and its VERY necessary!

Donald is in error.  According to my Haynes manual, Sentras from 1990 on 
used the GA16i engine, which incorporates a timing chain, not a belty, as 
in earlier models.  While earlier Sentras (like my 1987) should have the 
timing belts changed (or at least inspected quite regularly) after 60,000 
mi, there is no such scheduled maintenance for the 1990 and newer timing 
chains.

---
  WinQwk 2.0 a#299  Go away, or I shall taunt you a second time.
--
Executive Network Information System  (914) 667-4567
International ILink Host
From: murthy+@EDRC.CMU.EDU (Sesh Murthy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Buick Century now has power!!
Date: 29 Dec 92 19:30:16 GMT
Article-I.D.: cs.C01CuH.FH9.2
Organization: Carnegie Mellon University

I replaced every damn thing I could on this car.  Things
improved but not much. 

Finally I decided to decarbonize using the water in the
carburettor method.  I poured in (using an old dishwashing 
liquid bottle) about 1 quart of water into the carburettor
in a steady stream keeping engine rpm high enough not to 
stall.  At the end of this I drove the car about 10 miles 
to get rid of any water that may have remained.

The car feels GREAT.  I can accelerate really fast, I can spin the 
wheels and overall the car is really smooth now.  Finally this
car is drivable.   It seems to have something like its rated 110 HP.

Thanks to all the peole who suggested this.

I think the surging was because the knock sensor was sensing the
knocking and retarding the spark.  Then it would try again.  Now
this is gone.  This probably also accounted for the low power
previously.  (If it had not been for the computer I would have
heard the knocking and done this earlier.)

So how exactly does this decarbonizing work?  Is it necessary only
on American cars?  (I took the head off a Honda Civic 1.3 L and it
had no carbon on it at 100,000 miles.)   Why did my car have all
this carbon anyway?  (it has 104000 miles.)

Sesh Murthy
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: clarke@ll.mit.edu (Ken Clarke)
Subject: Re: Help... Car MPG has become very poor....
Organization: MIT Lincoln Laboratory
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 92 16:33:30 GMT

In article <1992Dec30.155722.15084@wam.umd.edu> choudhry@wam.umd.edu (Zafar Ullah Choudhry) writes:
>I have 1985 Mitsubishi Mirage whose MPG has reduced from 30 to only 15MPG.
>Few weeks ago it failed the emissions test and I posted the problem in 
>this news group. I suggested to change the carb. and I did that. However,
>MPG problem is still there as is, although emissions have reduced.
>
>Is it possible that this problem is due to high valve clearences, because
>I haven't adjusted them for a long time.  My car has 1,20,000 miles on it.
>Engine doesn't give any smoke while running. In the morning there is some
>some for few minutes.
>
>I have also checked all the hoses for any leaks, and found non. BTW, spark
>plugs become full with carbon within two weeks. I'll appreciate if anyone
>can help me out of this problem.
>
>Thanks.
>Zafar.
>
>
> (

Your comment on plugs having lots of carbon (soot) within two weeks
leads me to think that you are probably still running way too rich on
your fuel mixture which also cuts your mpg in half.

One thought is that your replacement carburetor is still not good.
Rebuilding carburetors is still somewhat of a crap shoot. You might
want to try another carburetor - hope you had a good warranty on the
replacement carb. It's kind of hard to test rebuilt carbs.  With
electrical rebuilds you can put them on a jig and see if they work or
not. With carbs, you rebuild them and can do visual checks for cracks
and maybe some air leak/flow tests, but how to know it really works?
Have to put it in a car and see. Some do and some don't.

It sounds like a fuel mixture too rich problem. Which leads me to
suspecting the carb, still. Does your car have an oxygen sensor? I've
heard of some carburetors with electronic feedback.  If so, I'd
suspect & check that, too.

Good luck with it, Zafar.

_________________
Ken Clarke
clarke@ll.mit.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech