HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: gt0869a@prism.gatech.EDU (WATERS,CLYDE GORDON)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: who makes what in the car audio world...
Date: 6 Apr 92 15:12:11 GMT
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology

At the suggestion of our Canadian friend, Louis Bertrand, I have
compiled a list of manufacturers who OEM many brands of amplifiers.
In other words, who really makes that amp?- this list will tell, to\
the best of my knowledge, what amps are made by what manufacturers. 
However, I have also decided to include speakers and some electronics 
other than amps (while I am here)...

Amps made by Precision Power:
POwer 1000, 2000, 3000, etc series
Pyramid Super Pro
G+S Competition
MTX Terminator
-------
Amps made by Orion
Hott Setup
-------
Amps made by Zed Audio:
HiFonics,
Autotek BTS series
Rodek
Earthquake
Audio Tech
-------
Amps based on old Alphasonik A-225, A-240... designs:
Older Autotek (A-180, A-230, etc)
HiComp HCB-840, 865, etc
MGT
1st generation Radio Sh** 50+50
-------
Amps designed by Nelson Pass:
Alphasonik Class A
Soundstream
some Nak,
--------
Some amps basically the same:

Sherwood,
Profile

Pyramid Gold Series,
Majestic
-------
Based on same designs (designers?)
NAD (home)
Proton D-series
Altec Lansing
-----------------------------------

Speaker Manufacturers:

Credence:
Kicker, 
some Petras

EV:
Soundstream,
G+S

Carbonneau:
Rockford,
SAS (Bazooka)
Audio Concepts

Eminence:
RMS
Petras (most)
Earthquake
Savard
some Soundstream
HiFonics
Pyramid Pro and Super Pro
Bumper (some)
Crunch

MTX:
Blaupunkt woofers

Gauss:
Old Orion GS series

SJA:
Orion SGX and HC series,
Atomic

Pioneer:
Nakamichi

---------------------------------------------------------

Other electronics the same:

CD Changers:

Sony:
Denon,
Yamaha,
Ford,
Soundstream,
Kenwood
some Audiovox

Hitachi:
Pioneer
BMW,
Honda (some)
Lexus

Crossovers the same(based on ALphasonik EX3 design):
Profile 
Earthquake,
MEI

Radios the same:
Sherwood 
Radio Sh** Optimus

---------------------------------------------------
This is by no means a complete list. If any one has any other additions,
feel free to follow up.

Regards,
Gordon.
 
-- 
WATERS,CLYDE GORDON-Georgia Institute of Technology Atlanta Ga 30332 
******<LANGUAGE IS A VIRUS! - Laurie Anderson-Home of the Brave>******* 
uucp:	  ...!{decvax,hplabs,ncar,purdue,rutgers}!gatech!prism!gt0869a
Internet: gt0869a@prism.gatech.edu
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: yystg@lims02.lerc.nasa.gov (STEVE GRAHAM)
Subject: Re: VOLTAGE CONVERTER
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
Date: 15 Apr 1992 09:25 EST  

In article <760.110.uupcb@cccbbs.UUCP>, mitch.blades@cccbbs.UUCP (Mitch Blades) writes...
>NG>   I have a 6 volts VW car radio which I would like to run on my new
>NG>12 volt battery car.  I want to build a 'voltage converter' that would allow
> 
>Well I'd try a resister myself.. just go to radio shack..
>
> * OLX 2.1 * It's only a hobby ... only a hobby ... only a

Wouldn't you have to find a resistor that exactly matches the resistance
characteristics of the radio?  Wouldn't this be pretty difficult 
considering that the radio may not represent a constant load?

S. Graham
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: jch@teak.Cray.COM (J.C. Hamlin)
Subject: Re: who makes what in the car audio world...
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 6 Apr 92 16:32:35 CDT

In article <53649@hydra.gatech.EDU>, gt0869a@prism.gatech.EDU (WATERS,CLYDE GORDON) writes:
> At the suggestion of our Canadian friend, Louis Bertrand, I have
> compiled a list of manufacturers who OEM many brands of amplifiers.
> In other words, who really makes that amp?

> Credence:
> Kicker, 
> some Petras

Pardon?  Stillwater Designs in Stillwater Oklahoma manufactures their own 
products.  They use some parts manufacturered by (or subcontracted from) 
Credence, but most of the loudspeaker design and manufacturing goes on in 
Stillwater.  However, I couldn't get any specific information from 
Stillwater or Credence about what exactly is subcontracted, oh well.

OK, so one small detail.  Overall the list was of general interest.  
Could someone please verify the other information on this list by calling the 
companies themselves?

J.C. Hamlin
jch@Cray.COM
From: sdavis@laforge.ksc.nasa.gov (Steve Davis)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Problems with custom inst., '91 Civic
Date: 16 Apr 92 19:17:58 GMT
Organization: NASA


Greetings...

  I have a 1991 Honda Civic DX sedan, in which I've installed the following:

     - Yamaha YCR-525 AM/FM/Cass. Head unit, top-of-the-line.

     - Soundstream MC-140 amplifier, 35W x 4ch.

     - Infinity CS-6 two-way component system; woofers mounted behind factory
       door grilles, tweeters mounted behind custom grilles in the upper-
       forward corners of the door panels.  (Passive crossover for tweeter
       is mounted inside the door; the woofers get the full signal, per
       manual.)

     - Infinity RS-602 co-axial speakers mounted in the rear deck.

  The 525 is being run as a pre-amp deck, and is connected to the amp with a  
pair of 15' TOA cables.  (I've borrowed some StreetWires for comparison, but  
the sound was not noticably different.)

  The most obvious problem is an annoying response peak in the upper midrange.   
I don't have an eq, but I'm scared to just go out and buy a graphic unit  
without really knowing if it will cure the problem.  Is there a reasonably  
priced parametric eq on the market?  If so, are there shops that will rent a  
real-time analyzer?  Has anyone had problems with excessively bright sound in  
this type of car?

  Also, although the bass response is pretty decent while listening to the  
radio, it drops severely when I pop in a tape.  This is true whether the tape  
is prerecorded or one that I have recorded at home... I have a Nakamichi 680  
which makes _very_ good tapes.  I know I can't expect really awesome bass  
response without a subwoofer, but some tapes sound like they're being played  
through 4" factory speakers, as far as bass is concerned.  This system _can_  
sound good as is; certain songs on some of the better stations sound really  
clean.  (I listen to both rock and classical music.)

  Any ideas on what I might do to cure these would be _greatly_ appreciated.   
Please respond directly, if possible; I'll post a summary to the list.

Regards,

Steve Davis
Kennedy Space Center, FL
internet: sdavis@laforge.ksc.nasa.gov
From: c_banks@vger.nsu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Converting AC equipment to DC/phantom power
Date: 8 Apr 92 15:49:00 EDT

Dear Readers;

I know many of you have seen in many of the auto/stereo mags a number of guys
that use equipment originally designed to be operated on AC power.  What I am
interested in is converting an EQ and a NOISEGATE to run off of DC so that I
can usem them in my car..(The Bob Clark stuff is Way to expensive!).

If you have any info please send me some e-mail or post.  

1.  Are there any books available that offer a detailed illustration of the
needed parts or supplies?

2.  Is there one kind of equipment better suited for this type of conversion
over another?

3.  Is it easier or better to use DC verses phantom power?
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: demaine@ee.ualberta.ca (Cal Demaine)
Subject: Re: Damping Factor in amplifiers.
Organization: University Of Alberta, Edmonton Canada
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1992 20:29:04 GMT

yystg@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov (STEVE GRAHAM) writes:

>Damping factor is now considered to be about as usefull as THD in 
>determining what an amp can do.  Consider that the resistance of the wires 
>used to hook up your amp to the speakers will add enough resistance to 
>nullify an "excellent" damping factor.  The only way to really tell if an 
>amp effectively damps a certain load/speaker is to try it out.  The numbers 
>don't say much.  The damping factor is usually rated at the speaker outputs 
>on the amp - a good rating there can turn into a lousy one at the speakers.

>Personally (IMO) a damping factor does not tell much about the ability to 
>control a speaker.  This opinion is supported by most of the stereo/audio 
>mags out today.  It can almost be discounted as simply a buzzword to get 
>people's attention.

>S. Graham

This is all true in the car audio world, where (almost) all the amps are
transistor jobs with naturally low output impedance.

But, just in case anyone wanted to apply that to home stereo, be forewarned
that not all amps in that domain (read: tube amps) have such small output
impedances, and they can seriously affect the Ras of the woofer system,
which, in turn, affects the Qsystem.

This could be one reason why there expensive speakers occationally fair to
better their cheaper competitors when compared on inexpensive transistor
equipment.  But, I digress.

 - Cal
From: mmiller@netlink.cts.com (Michael Miller)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Recommended reading?
Date: 17 Apr 92 05:52:05 GMT
Organization: NetLink Online Communications, San Diego CA

Can anyone recommend any reading on installing car stereo systems?
This should include tuners, amps and speakers. It should also be
geared towards a novice...

Please reply in mail. I will post a summery if there's any interest.

--                    
INTERNET:  mmiller@netlink.cts.com (Michael Miller)
UUCP:   ...!nosc!ryptyde!netlink!mmiller
NetLink Online Communications * Public Access in San Diego, CA (619) 435-6181
From: rslau@usc.edu (Robert Lau)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: WeenieBox! [was: Re: DSP for automatic Volume Control]
Date: 15 Apr 1992 00:29:52 -0700
Organization: University of Southern California, USA
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: tarazed.usc.edu
In-reply-to: yystg@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov's message of 14 Apr 92 14:05:00 GMT

In article <14APR199209053698@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov> yystg@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov (STEVE GRAHAM) writes:

   Another interesting gadget - a dsp to shape the response curve to match the 
   ears response at given volumes - i.e. an extended "loudness control".  This 
   would allow you to adjust the volume to any level and not have to raise/
   lower bass when you turn the volume up/down.  I think I would pay some $$ 
   if such a beast were made.

Ya know, I think a generic DSP 'black box' would be marketable!  Jeez, just
build a simple stripped down single-board-computer around any ol DSP.  Sell
eproms with different programs, something like what Steve described above is
*trivial*.  Give it a keyboard port so true weenies can do their own
programming.  Put it on a high-speed bus so you can expand (a DSP for each
speaker).  Contract Frog Design to come up with some contemporary packaging!
If it goes for around $200, people will buy...

I'll call it the "WeenieBox"

Any EE/CS weenies out there who want to pursue this?

;^)
-- 
Robert Lau - Systems Programmer, Unix Systems     213-740-2866
--  University Computing Services                 Internet: rslau@usc.edu
--  University of Southern California             Bitnet:   rslau@uscvm
--  1020 W Jefferson, LA, CA  USA, 90089-0251     UUCP:     ...!uunet!usc!rslau
From: jsmith@ug.cs.dal.ca (Jeff N Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Amp Questions !!!
Date: 16 Apr 92 05:01:47 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Math, Stats & CS, Dalhousie University, Halifax, NS, Canada


	I could really use some help with choosing some new amps for
my car.  I have a Pioneer head unit and CD changer, 10" subs(rear)
6.5" two-way(for rear fill), 6.5" mid bass and 1" tweeters in the 
factory door location(front) and 1" tweeters in the front vents.  The 
system will be balanced with an Audio Control EQX eq (with electronic
cross over if needed).  I have a Honda Civic Si Hatchback.   I only 
want to spend about $500.  I thought maybe two Rockford Fosgate
Punch 45HD's one for the subs and the other for everything else.
Any help that could be given be muchly appreciated!!  I might be
able to get a 10 month old Pheonix Gold 2220 (??) 2x22w for about
$400 and run the entire system from this one amp using passive cross
overs.

Thanks
Jeff Smith
Dalhousie University, Halifax, Nova Scotia
Canada 
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: jreiser@scott.skidmore.edu (jason reiser)
Subject: Re: Speaker Connections
Organization: Skidmore College, Saratoga Springs NY
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1992 05:41:44 GMT

brian@navaho.ugrad.ee.ufl.edu (Brian Gentry) writes:
> In article <1992Apr15.030702.1573@scott.skidmore.edu>, jreiser@scott.skidmore.edu (jason reiser) writes:
> |> There are a couple of ways to check which wire is which, the most
> |> obvious is the use of a continuety (sp?) meter.  However, the easiest
> |> way that will not require uninstallation of speakers is this...
> |> 	Grab a friend whose sole job will be to identify if a speaker
> |> cone moves out or in on your command.  Grab a pair of wires that are
> |> ready to be connected to the radio.  Touch one wire to the (+)
> |> terminal of a D cell battery and the other to the (-) side.  If the
> |> speaker cone moves outward, the wire connected to (+) is (+) and the
> |> other is (-).  If the cone moves in, the wire connected to the (+)
> |> battery terminal is (-) and the other is (+).  Of course, if nothing
> |> happens, then the two wires you are testing are not connected to the
> |> speaker.
> |> 	Best of luck!
> |> 				- Jason Reiser
> |>  
> |>  
> |>   /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\
> |>   \                                                           /
> |>   / Jason Reiser  Skidmore College, Saratoga Springs, NY 12866 \
> |>   \            E-Mail at jreiser@scott.skidmore.edu            /
> |>   /                    Or Call 518-581-7079                    \
> |>   \                                                            /
> |>    \/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/
> |>                                                                 
> 
> 
> This method is used by a lot of amateur car stereo installers.  
> Unfortunately, you can do a lot of damage to the computer system in
> your car if you touch the wrong wire.  In newer cars which have 
> computer equipment strewn throughout them, you can do some very expensive
> damage by putting voltage on a lead that goes to a computer.  In fact,
> even using an ohm-meter you can damage computer equipment, because an
> ohm-meter puts out voltage as well.  The safest way to check, is to use
> a voltmeter on any wire you think might be a speaker wire.  If it is a 
> speaker wire, then when the car is on (or off) there will be no voltage
> present.  If there is voltage on the wire, then you don't have the right 
> wire.  
> 
> 
>                        Brian L. Gentry
>                  (brian@sioux.ugrad.ee.ufl.edu)


Sorry Brian
	I went out on a limb and assumed that he would know which
wires went to which speakers since he installed those wires himself.
Thanks for the advice on the dangers of this method though.  From my
experience, it's always best to do all the electrical wiring first and
then do the speakers.  Tends to avoid that scenario.

				- Jason













Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: biancol@bullet.ecf.toronto.edu (BIANCOLIN  FABIO S)
Subject: Damping Factor in amplifiers.
Summary: How important is it, and what is a good number? 
Organization: University of Toronto, Engineering Computing Facility
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 20:12:14 GMT

  Hello, recently, there was a posting talking about an Orion HCCA series
amplifier and how the damping factor dropped drastically as it was
put in mono, and loaded down (to i believe 1/2 an ohm).
  
   Well, i understand that the lower the damping factor, the more
difficult it is for the amplifier to stop the cone of the speaker from
moving, and at higher volumes, this will cause distortion.
  
  But what is a good number for Damping Factor?  Some HiFonics
amps i have read about range from 150 for a 35w/chan to 500 for 
a 600w/chan (note: i assume this is in 4 ohm mode).

   The Blade amps i mentioned in the previous article have a 
DF of "> 100"  (note: once again i assume in 4 ohms)
  
  So whats right?  Whats a good number?  How do you determine
Whether or not its worth it to load down an amp to 2 ohms?
 Is the solution to buy a bigger amp and run every channel into
4 ohms?    
  HELP!!
  Fabio.

Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: robb@ais.org (Robert Gonyer)
Subject: Bass Help
Organization: UMCC
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 92 01:11:35 GMT

Hi there.  I am thinking of adding a subwoofer to my system.
Right now, I have a Pioneer pullout, 6 disk changer, Sherwood
(I think it is a 1240q or something), Infinity 602 door speakers, 
Yamaha sealed box (two 8" drivers, 2 horns and a 10" or 12" passive
radiator downfiring).  The problem is, when I really get thumping,
the radiator throws so far that it hits the bottom and makes an awful         
thfffpt sound (Yes, like bill the cat).  The woofers dont seem to be
over throwing, but the radiator just hits the bottom.  Would it help
to somehow run a crossover to filter out the real lows, and send them to 
a dual voice coil MTX 10" sub?  How would I go about crossing it over 
and building the box?  Theres not much room left in my car, I have
a ''78 mustang II, and the Yamaha takes quite a bit of room.  Also, 
would it put an extra load on the amp, or make it quieter?
I consider myself an amatuer radio installer, but I have put my whole system   
in, so I'm at least a very good amatuer.  Any comments and EMAIL welcome.
Oh, btw, I have the head unit powering the infinity's (25x2).
Thanks Much!
-Robb
Organization: Senior, Electrical and Computer Engineering, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1992 12:14:18 -0400 
From: Michael Lorenz Holling <mh2o+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Boom in Pittsburgh

Hey,
Last summer I finally scraped up enough money to put some subs in my
car, a Kenwood KAC-921 driving a MTX 2x12" cabinet.  It's OK, but I get
the impression that it's not nearly as loud as it could (should) be. 
Unfortunately I really don't know anyone around here who's into car
audio.  Are there any Pittsburgh folks out there who can recommend a
good car audio shop in the area?  Or just hang out and chat about
subwoofers?  I guess I could always pop the trunk and wait to see who
shows up, but it would probably be the Pittsburgh police coming to take
my system away...

BTW I'm a student with a good bit of experience in pro-audio and audio
electronics in general.  I don't know diddly about speaker cabinet
design though, or the peculiarities of car audio.


- Mike

Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: Peter A. Cohen <peterco@eff.org>
Subject: Best Headunit for Under $200?
Organization: ON Technology, Inc.
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1a2
Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1992 17:51:21 GMT

Okay.  Let me have it.  What do you think is the best headunit (in terms
of both reliability and performance) money can buy for under $200?

- Peter
From: louis@tronix.SignalPath.on.ca (Louis Bertrand)
Subject: Re: Autotek Amplifiers?
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Date: 13 Apr 92 18:19:32 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Signal Path Designs

Autotek (along with RoDEK) amps are made by Z-Audio, the same
outfit that builds HiFonics.  HiFonics is OK in my books for
reliability and sound, but I suspect that the private label
amps are a second-best (e.g. budget) design.

Try to arrange to listen (I mean really listen, not just pound)
to both and let your ears decide...

Have fun!
 -- Louis
--
Louis Bertrand   *   Lynden, Ontario, Canada   *   (416) 648-8066
Signal Path Designs (Analog - Digital - Audio - Embedded uCs)
louis@SignalPath.on.ca (new -- may not work yet)
louis%tronix@maccs.dcss.mcmaster.ca (old -- still works fine)
From: "mike frisch" <mike.frisch@canrem.com>
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: 6s & 8s
Date: 12 Apr 92 01:00:41 EST
Reply-To: "mike frisch" <mike.frisch@canrem.com>
Distribution: rec
Organization: Canada Remote Systems


     I've been sitting back and watching this echo for a little while
now and I haven't seen much conversation in regards to smaller
subwoofers- mainly 6" & 8" (I am not interested in anything like a
Bazooka tube).

     Can somebody recommend a good subwoofer (ie. able to reproduce the
lower frequencies) in these smaller sizes?  A recent car audio magazine
mentions it being difficult to find such a thing.  Is this true?

     Much thanks for your help in advance.  I do not need a booming
system, but rather want some low frequency reproduction without taking
up an enormous amount of space for 10"s or 12"s.

+---------------------------------------------------------------+
| Mike Frisch                    Usenet: mike.frisch@canrem.com |
| Newmarket, Ontario, Canada                                    |
+---------------------------------------------------------------+
---
  OLX 2.2  Most allies must be watched just like the enemy.
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario/Detroit, MI
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: yystg@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov (STEVE GRAHAM)
Subject: Re: VOLTAGE CONVERTER
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
Date: 17 Apr 1992 09:29 EST  

In article <demaine.703457348@ee.ualberta.ca>, demaine@ee.ualberta.ca (Cal Demaine) writes...
> 
>>In series, if the resistance of the two resistors is equal, they will both 
>>get half the voltage.  In parallel, the voltage will be the voltage of the 
>>power supply for both resistors, assuming that the power supply can handle 
>>the parallel load.  There are separate sets of equations for series and 
>>parallel.  Check out a physics book at the library for the formulas :-)
> 
>>S. Graham
> 
>Ok, before I say anything, IMHO you should go to an electronics dealer and
>buy a voltage regulator w/big heatsink before you even attempt to balance
>any of this with resistors.
> 
>But anyway, here's the formula:
> 
>  V= Input voltage, I= Input current
>  V1= voltage across resistor 1  I1= current through resistor 1
>  V2= voltage across resistor 2  I2= current through resistor 2
>  R= total resistance.
> 
>  Two resistors in series, R1, R2.
> 
>  I=V/(R1+R2)  I1=I2=I  R=R1+R2  V1=I*R1  V2=I*R2
> 
>  Two resistors in parallel.
> 
>  R=1/(1/R1+1/R2)  I=V/R  I1=V/R1  I2=V/R2  V1=V2=V
> 
>Beyond here lie dragons:
> 
>  Let's suppose (quite reasonably, for this example) that your little VW bug
>radio has a power consumption of... 12 watts.  Power=V^2/R, giving us R=3ohms.
>If we use R as R1, then R2 would have to be 3ohms as well, and would also
>dissipate 12 watts (ouch!)  But it can be done no problem.
> 
>  But let's say that, suddenly (big, musical peak on your radio), your radio
>draws 18 watts.  P=V^2/R, and R has become 2ohms!  The battery now sees 3ohms
>(resistor) and 2ohms (stereo) = 5ohms.  Therefore, I=2.4, and the voltage
>across your radio becomes 4.8V instead of 6.0V.  Chances are, it's not going
>to work too good with that low a supply voltage.
> 
>  Of course, the above example is simplified a bit, but hopefully it does
>demonstrate that resistor balancing is *not* the way to go with loads that
>you are unsure of, be them unspecified, or able to change.
> 
>  Which, of course, is why they came along with power electronics...
> 
>  -- Cal

Exactly: moral, buy/build the 12vDC - 6vDC converter.

S. Graham