HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: Antonio_DeSimone@ATT.COM (Tony DeSimone)
Subject: Re: 9.6v vs 12v cordless drills
Reply-To: tds@hoserve.att.com (Tony DeSimone)
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 21:23:02 GMT
	<1993Jan22.175039.17860@mloeff01.cpchq.cpc.gmeds.com>

>>>>> On 22 Jan 93 17:50:39 GMT, kl@cveng120.veheng.det (Keith L) said:

In article 93012209055777@IPFWVM.BITNET, ALEX@NKI.BITNET (Bill Alexander) writes:
:^OOn Thu, 21 Jan 1993 19:56:09 GMT Greg Tollefson said:
:^O>I am looking into cordless drills.  What is the performance gain by
:^O>going to the 12v cordless.  The cost adder is 20-30%.  Can both
:^O>handle 3" drywall screws into 2x4's?  Any other WOW.
:^O>
:^OMy Panasonic 9.6v drives 3" screws with ease. 9.6's also tend to be a few
:^Oounces lighter than 12's. Those few ounces can add up after a long day of
:^Osheetrocking.

I have not yet had a problem with my 9.6V makita, and I've abused it
considerably--putting up lots of drywall, building a shed (exterior
5/8" plywood to 2x4s)...  The closest it came to crapping out was
driving lots of 3-1/2 inch screws through twin 3/4" sheets of plywood
subfloor into 40-year-old floor joists.  That taxed it a bit.  I don't
think the added cost and weight of 12V systems is worth it for the
kinds of uses I've put the thing through.

Keith> The key advantage of the 12v drill is the added torque
Keith> produces.  Driving 3" drywall screws into pine studs is not a
Keith> problem for most of the 9.6v drills I use but driving 3/8" dia.
Keith> 5" long lag screws will clearly demonstrate the added power of
Keith> the 12v drills.  In any case, if I were going to drive a lot of
Keith> screws I would not abuse my cordless drills but would use a
Keith> corded drill or, preferably, a drywall gun that is more suited
Keith> to the task.
From: markw@hpcss01.cup.hp.com (Mark Williams)
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 17:46:01 GMT
Subject: Re: Electric motor brakes?
Organization: Hewlett Packard, Cupertino
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

There are many ways to brake a motor, both mechanical and electrical.
The mechanical means don't appeal to me, since I'm an electrical weenie.

Electrical braking is of two flavors, static and dynamic.  Static braking
puts a load across the motor winding when it's off, which dissipates the
flywheel energy of the saw.  Dynamic braking is not practical for induction
motors on most saws.

A cheap static brake simply uses a two pole switch or magnetic starter to
connect the motor to either the power line or a resistor, which converts
the rotating energy to heat.  
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: hollen@megatek.UUCP (Dion Hollenbeck)
Subject: Re: Extension Table Laminate
Organization: Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 18:40:18 GMT

>>>>> On 21 Jan 93 03:02:39 GMT, kensmith@cs.Buffalo.EDU (Ken Smith) said:
Ken> Originator: kensmith@milo.cs.buffalo.edu

Ken> What's a good material to laminate on top of home-made table saw
Ken> extension tables?  Norm used a white laminate on his rolling shop
Ken> table that he said wood slides over easily (same stuff as on his
Ken> commercial extension tables I assume...) but he never said what
Ken> the material was.

I went to my local lumber yard and picked anything which was large
enough out of their cutoffs Formica bin.  Not only does it work
wonderfully in terms of sliding characteristics and durability, but
pieces out of the scrap bin cost $.50 per square foot as opposed to
about 6 times that for whole sheets and pieces you direct to be cut
for you from a whole sheet.

-- 
Dion Hollenbeck                        Email: hollen@megatek.com
Senior Software Engineer                      megatek!hollen@uunet.uu.net
Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California    ucsd!megatek.uucp!hollen
From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 19:51:22 GMT
Subject: Re: Cheapo router bit mishap
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

rcbi27@marshall.wvnet.edu (DBRUM) writes:

>I thought I'd report another bad experience I just had with a cheapo carbide
>tipped router bit. 
>
>I was using a two wing slot cutter, 1/8", in some white oak when the peice
>of wood got jammed and was promptly torn from my hand and rocketted across
>the garage right in front of my face. It was a small piece of wood, and I
>consider myself very lucky for not having it adorning my forehead at this
>moment. But equally fortunate am I for not having been embedded by the
>tiny carbide tip of one of the wings of the slot cutter, which became
>detatched during the process and now rests lord only knows where--perhaps 
>it is stuck in the deep, ragged gouges running down the side of the piece of
>tough wood, I'll have to check.
>
>I can however report--after having intelligently modified my feed mode
>after the mishap--that the cutter cuts just as well with only one intact
>wing. Some of you might remember last time when I reported that a cheapo
>carbide router bit, a 1/4" straight type, shattered unaccountably and
>ruined a fine Porter Cable router by the broken pieces falling down into
>the armature (it was underslung on a router table) and breaking the device's
>fan blades.
>
>I'm not trying to sound like a spokesman or anything. For all I know, the
>non-cheapo carbide router bits may be just as breakable. Due to budgetary
>considerations (ahem), I have not tested these as amply as the cheapos. 
>Those powerful routers produce a lot of torque, and I guess when push comes
>to shove, something's gotta give.
-----

   I have chipped and broken very high quality Bosch router bits.  I think
   While a cheap bit may be prone to breaking earlier, just because you
   broke a cutter doesn't mean that the bit was inferior and to be avoided.

   I find that with cheaper bits, other problems are more obvious.

   I tried to save money making my drawers by buying a cheap round-over bit
   with no bearing, rather just a little round piece of metal as a guide.
 
   The problem is it quickly got hot and burned lines on my drawers which 
   were a pain to get rid of.

   Mind you, I am not disagreeing that your bit might have broken because it
   was cheap, rather, people should be aware that buying an expensive bit
   does not mean the bit will safely take anything you throw at it.   This
   is especially true for panel raising bits and tall straight bits being
   used for jointing....
   
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: clarke@acheron.UUCP (Ed Clarke/10240000)
Subject: Re: metalworking
Keywords: metalworking
Reply-To: clarke@acheron.UUCP
Organization: Ciliophora Associates
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 02:26:14 GMT

In article <PZkHXB1w165w@surya.UUCP>, root@surya.UUCP (Root Account) writes:
|> If you do, please let me know.

rec.crafts.metalworking has 173 messages in it at this location.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: EPLUS17@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu (Richard Engelbrecht-Wiggans)
Subject: Re: Anyone cut metal with a circular saw?
Organization: C.C.S.O.
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1993 03:13:38 GMT

In article <14340021@hp-ptp.ptp.hp.com>
keith@hp-ptp.ptp.hp.com (Keith Millar) writes:
 
>I have this great idea that I can put a particle metal cutting blade in my
>circular saw and cut metal pipe and box steel  and sheet steel ( <= 1/4 inch )
>
>Is there any reason why I shouldn't? Are regular circular saws (mine is a
>black and decker trade 1/4 hp) able to handle the job? I was thinking that
>perhaps the hot sparks or wrong speed might be a factor.
>
I presume your saw is actually one + 1/4 hp?
 
I have done a considerable amount of metal cutting
with my circular saw, most of it in 3/16" to 5/16"
angle steel.  MY B&D did not like the job...it was
somewhat under powered, and much worse, the blade
guard is some sort of plastic that starts melting and
fuming from the hot sparks.
 
Since then, I have invested in a more expensive
(Milwaukee) saw and it cuts through that angle
stock as if it were butter.  I am however concerned
about the possibility that all the particles
created by my metal cutting might have an adverse
affect on the saw's bearings etc; does anyone know?
 
..Richard E+17
 
From: bennett@hpfcdc.fc.hp.com (Steve Bennett)
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1993 17:10:46 GMT
Subject: Laminate Bond that Didn't
Organization: HP Fort Collins, Co.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

I recently applied a piece of plastic laminate to a small table top. For
some reason (maybe the shop wasn't quite warm enough?), I didn't get a good
bond on one of the edges. I can peal it back about a half inch along that side.

What's the recommended technique to fix this sort of problem? Any suggestions
would be gratefully accepted!

					Steve Bennett
					bennett@fc.hp.com
From: sjm1@eng.cam.ac.uk (Stephen Mounsey)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: fresh spalded sugar maple -- turn green, or dry first??
Date: 27 Jan 93 12:57:00 GMT
Organization: cam.eng

EPLUS17@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu (Richard Engelbrecht-Wiggans) writes:

>In article <C1E241.GDq@news.cso.uiuc.edu>
>bruce@uxc.cso.uiuc.edu (Bruce Krueger) writes:
> 
>>ok, the postings on lathes and the extensive speculation re the unknown
>>shoulda-been-maple got me to wondrin'...
>>
>>I've got a pile (rough guess, 5-800 lbs.) of five green sections of a
> 
>>                               I'm wondering whether to let the wood
>>dry first (for how many years/decades), and if so, should I paint/wax/
>>varnish the ends to prevent, or at least retard, checking, or isn't this
>>as much of a problem with sugar maple sections as it would be with some
>>of the other hardwoods I have experience with (oak, hickory,...)??
>>
>I got some green locust when the Valentines ice storm a couple
>of years back claimed a neighbor's tree.  I turned about a dozen
>10-12" blanks immediately and saved several 6' long logs for later.
>I'm no expert on the lathe, and my taste runs toward the clunky...
>my bowls had wall thicknesses of about 1/2".  Two years later, they
>are no longer round.  A few months ago, I chopped one of my logs

If you leave enough wall thickness and a means of re-chucking you 
can always turn them green then re-true them after they've warped.

Or you can claim that you _intended_ them to warp for artistic effect.

                                   -Stephen.
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-Mailer: ELM [version 2.2 PL0]
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 22 Jan 1993 12:25:19 PST
From:         "Jim Johnson 7-9535 (6518 TS/EN)" <jjohnson@EDWARDS-SCY.AF.MIL>
Subject: Re: Hey! Lets have a survey....
              at Jan 22, 93 11:59 am

      Good Idea!  I'm presently working on a secretary made from clear pine
      and birch.  It has three full size drawers and two half size ones.
      I'm about half way through it.

      James Johnson
      Standard Disclaimer
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 22 Jan 1993 11:59:00 EST
From:         HUNTRESS GARY B <HUNTRESS@NPT.NUSC.NAVY.MIL>
Subject: Hey! Lets have a survey....

I've been reading this group for a couple of months now and I've
noticed that most of the discussion is tool related, followed
closely by tips and techniques.  Well, I'd like to start a new
thread:  I'd like to hear about the projects that everyone is
working on, just finished, or is planned for the future.

Ok, I'll start.  I'm in the middle of constructing the Shaker wall
clock featured on NYW two seasons ago.  If it comes out ok its
going to be a wedding gift.

===============================================================================
|  Gary Huntress                        |  "I'm not a member of an organized  |
|  Naval Undersea Warfare Center        |   political party, I'm a democrat"  |
|  Newport RI                           |                                     |
|  (401) 841-7839                       |    My Brother                       |
|  HUNTRESS@NPT.NUSC.NAVY.MIL           |   ( and Will Rogers )               |
|=============================================================================|
From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 19:46:37 GMT
Subject: Re: Polycarbonate prices (was: Re: want to drill and thread holes)
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis) writes:
>
>Well Paul,
>
>"Other types of acrylic" can legitimately be parsed to refer to
>polycarbonate, lexan or both.  You get to choose your mistake from
>three possible interpretations, all three of which are incorrect.
>
>I did assume your sentence to mean what you say in your followup w.r.t.
>polycarbonate != acrylic.  My first three sentences are making sure.
>
>But, again, Lexan is not acrylic either.  And doesn't scratch like
>acrylic.
>
>If you hadn't had the phrase "other types of", I'd only be able to remark
>that Lexan doesn't scratch any worse than any other kind of polycarbonate.
>-- 

   Thanks, Chris.  I stand corrected.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: kamooni@pb2esac.uucp (Ken Moonitz)
Subject: Re: Tool steel brad point drills? Where?
Organization: Pacific*Bell ESAC, Oakland, CA.
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 17:06:22 GMT

In article <5650086@hplsla.hp.com> tomb@hplsla.hp.com (Tom Bruhns) writes:
>Can anyone recommend a brand or supplier of brad point drills made
>of decent quality tool steel?  I'd like something that doesn't
>loose its edge on the first buried woodscrew it hits; I'd guess
>the way it's ground it might not do a good job cutting through
>things like that, but on the other hand, having a bit ruined isn't
>too nice.  If I have to, I'll just grind a good bit to a brad point,
>but getting it right won't be easy with the tools I have.
>
>

Fuller made in USA is a high quality bit.

The Japan Woodworker in Alameda Ca. (800-537-7820) has them.
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: And now, more 'Hometime' news
Date: 21 Jan 93 18:26:26 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

Jim Morgan writes:
>Really, NYW is bad enough, but on Hometime they really go through projects
>at lightspeed.  I don't see how anyone could learn much from watching.  I
>wish these shows would slow down and discuss and demonstrate different ways
>of doing things.  After all, we don't all own every tool known to mankind
>(you listening, Nahm?).  Learning about new ways to use common tools
>or novel ways of solving problems would be more useful to most people than
>seeing the latest expensive squiblet flurbigator in action.  (Oh no!
>I swore I wasn't going to add to _that_ thread!)



While Norm does own just about every tool known to the human race, he is
very thoughtful about using different methods to accomplish the same
ends (for example, you'll see him making mortices with a router (some-
times squaring the hole with a chisel, sometimes rounding the tenons with
a rasp), with a mortising attachment for his drill press, and with a
dedicated mortising machine).

I can say I have seen him demonstrate some methods for solving problems that,
while perhaps not novel, were rather inventive.  His use of jigs represents
perhaps the best way of getting consistent results in making many duplicate
pieces.

So all in all, I'd say all of your gripes (except the one about owning
every tool) are completely unfounded.  IMO, Norm ALWAYS emphasizes the
end result, and not the tool.  If you sit down and watch and listen,
instead of just drooling over his tool collection and being torqued
that his is bigger than yours, you just may learn some of the things
you are asking for!

Dave
-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
"I look back with some satisfaction on what an idiot I was when I was 25,
 but when I do that, I'm assuming I'm no longer an idiot." - Andy Rooney
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: clarke@acheron.UUCP (Ed Clarke)
Subject: Re: How do I start with $500?
Reply-To: clarke@acheron.UUCP
Organization: Ciliophora Associates
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1993 14:44:39 GMT

The order of sentences in the following article was rearanged ...

In article <1jptotINNcls@cronkite.cisco.com>, echi@cisco.com (Eric P. Chi) writes:
|> I plan to setup some equipments to build some bookshelf kind thing
|> for my study room and garage. I am wondering whether I should buy a table
|> saw or radial saw? Or do I really need those fancy equipments? 
|> Also if is there brand/model you can recommend? My budget is ~$500.

Your budget of $500 is too low to invest in a table saw at this time.  If
you are just starting out, you need other basic tools that you won't be
able to purchase if you buy an 'ok' saw.

|> I already own a circular saw but I can hardly cut a straight line with it.

Let's fix this first, go out and find a "Clamp 'N Tool Guide" of suitable
length for your work.  This gadget is a flat bar with a fixed and an
adjustable stop.  It clamps onto wood and provides a good straight edge
to run your circular saw against.  My 50 inch bar cost $39 a couple of
years ago.  I got it at a ShopSmith store but they are available via
mailorder.

I wouldn't get ANYTHING until I bought "Safety Glasses" AND hearing 
protection.  Yes, you can't DO or BUILD anything with them, but they can
save your sight or hearing ( circular saws are loud ).

Buy a cordless drill (Panasonic, Bosch etc.) for about $130-150.  This
should be able to run slowly so that you can also use it to drive screws.
There are driver bits available that will let you use deck or drywall
screws such as are commonly available in hardware stores.  It will also
be useful for drilling holes .... And you DO NOT NEED a gigantic 150
piece machinist combination drill bit kit.  Buy the bits as you need
them, but get 1/8, 1/4, 3/8 inch bits to start.  Ask here for model types
that people like ( I have a drywall screw gun, and a plug-in drill ).

I'm recommending "Stanley" for the following because they are the most
common "ok" quality brand (avoid no-name store brands):

	1.) Framing Square
	2.) Hammer
	3.) Utility Knife
	4.) 24" level
	5.) Chalk line
	6.) Machinist square (I like Starett better but > $)

The above is enough to start with.  Get the current (Feb. 1993) issue of
Fine Woodworking.  On page 62 there is an article on simple bookcases
for you to look at.  You don't have a biscuit joiner, but dowels can be
used as a substitute ( hence the 3/8 drill bit above ...).

You have a choice of getting a hand-plane for finishing or a sander.
The hand plane (or set of planes) is somewhat expensive.  I don't like
new Stanley planes and other manufacturers are much more expensive.

The "Porter Cable" #333 random orbit sander ($79) is quite nice.  You
don't need this to start with though.

Get a catalog from Woodworkers Supply ( 1-800-645-9797, customer service).

From: peterd@hpgrla.gr.hp.com (Peter Davidoff)
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 16:23:06 GMT
Subject: Re: Democrats; was: Re: Hey! Lets have a survey....
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Greeley, CO
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

In rec.woodworking, david@talgras.UUCP (David Hoopes) writes:

  >#1 Reconstruction of a 1890s cutter (sliegh).  This has been a lot
  >   of fun and a real chalenge.  I had never worked on a project that
  >   required bending wood before.

I just sold my 1895 Main cutter.  Half the monies went to my wife for whatever
she wants, the other half is going to a 6" jointer for me.  Didn't wanna
sell it, but with a 2yr old and a new one on the way, we sold our Missouri
Fox Trotters, stopped buying hey... and have been concentrating more on
domestic projects rather than horse projects.  BTW, the summer before I
came to HP (back around 1989), I apprenticed to a horse carriage builder.
I learned much about wheel building and rebuilding:  cutting tenons,
even used an Amish (metal) tire bender!  Learned how to weld, then heat
this metal tire in a fire, then the two of us would carry it over to the
wooden wheel, place it in position, then flood it with water - a shrink
to fit process!  Those were good times.

Projects:

  Finished last summer the rocking horse from an old issue of WoodSmith.
  It is Jessica's favorite toy.

  Been building "things" for the darkroom.  Film drying cabinets, upright
  project easels.  Since I use 19th century large cameras, I'm often 
  fixing pieces or building lens mount boards (requires lots of rabbets
  and often turned spacers.

Planned:
  We are about to redo the kitchen.  Been asked to build some country
  cabinets &etc.

  Also will be building a 10"x20" view camera typical of those used
  back around 1880 to 19910.

Regards,
  Peter

Xref: sparky rec.woodworking:10163 misc.consumers.house:17355
From: ameres@ithaca.cat.rpi.edu (Eric Ameres)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: hardwood floor repair
Date: 25 Jan 93 20:39:58 GMT
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY

In article <C1A178.G92@ra.nrl.navy.mil> <Healy@space50.nrl.navy.mil> writes:
>In article <1993Jan22.010500.17955@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (patterson,george r) writes:
>> 
>> Now put the tongue of the new board in place, and drop the other end down.
>> You might want to glue this board in; otherwise, use finishing nails,
>> countersink them, and fill the holes.
>> 
>> Before cutting, make *absolutely sure* that there is a subfloor (cause
>> that's all that will hold this thing together. One of my rooms is carpeted
>> because there's a broken board in the middle and there's no subfloor.
>> 
>
>Why is subflooring necessary?  Can't one nail it to the joists like
>the original board?  Basically I don't see the difference between 
>the original board and the replacement except the latter is missing
>the bottom of the groove, and it doesn't seem like subflooring would
>make any difference.  Or am I missing something?
>
>Liam Healy
>
>

If you're going to patch a hardwood floor that was applied directly to
the floor joists, you'd best be REAL careful about making sure the
seams (end to end butt joints) occur on (at) a joist or else you're
going to have all kinds of spring (and eventually failure) at the
joint.  Finding the right location for the cuts can lead to some
tricky moments in themselves.  Much, much easier if you've got a
subfloor.

I know I'd be worried.

Eric.

-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Eric Ameres,  Software Engineer                 ameres@cat.rpi.edu
New York State Center for Advanced Technology in Automation & Robotics
Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute - CII 8313, Troy, NY 12180-3590
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Heavy Duty Griz...
Date: 26 Jan 93 00:59:05 GMT
Organization: LLNL

In article <93025.123242DXR8@psuvm.psu.edu>, DXR8@psuvm.psu.edu writes:
> 
> Has anyone purchased/used the
> G1023, and can they give me any comments, good or bad?
> 
I've got one.  It's a solid saw and the movements work easily.  Not as
good as the Unisaw, and the fence is ok, but not great.  Since you're close,
go look at it.  It's worth the time.  Whether you like the saw is
up to you.

G.
From: byron@holland.nsc.com (Byron Dickinson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Sharpening Stones
Date: 27 Jan 93 19:37:22 GMT
Distribution: rec.woodworking
Organization: National Semiconductor


I am a novice woodworker that is trying to decide what kind of sharpening
stones to purchase.  I would appreciate some wisdom from the network
concerning waterstones and oilstones.  The oilstones are a little more
expensive; however, I have heard that they last longer.  Is this true?
Do they both give the same finish to the tools?  First hand information
from someone that has used either (or even better, both) would be very
useful.  BTW, I will be sharpening wood chisels, carving chisels, and
hand planes.



Byron Dickinson



National Semiconductor
2900 Semiconductor Drive
M/S D3677
P.O. Box 58090
Santa Clara, CA  95052-8090
PHONE:  408-721-5824

DOMAIN: byron@berlioz.nsc.com
ARPA:   nsc!berlioz!byron@sun.com
USENET: ...{amdahl,decwrl,hplabs,pyramid,sun}!nsc!berlioz!byron
--
Byron Dickinson



National Semiconductor
2900 Semiconductor Drive
M/S D3677
P.O. Box 58090
Santa Clara, CA  95052-8090
PHONE:  408-721-5824

DOMAIN: byron@berlioz.nsc.com
ARPA:   nsc!berlioz!byron@sun.com
USENET: ...{amdahl,decwrl,hplabs,pyramid,sun}!nsc!berlioz!byron