HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty)
Subject: Re: High Perfomance Tires
Organization: New York State Institute for Sebastian Cabot Studies
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 18:20:40 GMT

In article <1992Aug13.203635.21676@oracle.us.oracle.com> jgong@oracle.com (John Gong) writes:
>In article <1992Jul31.195001.13733@cabot.balltown.cma.COM> welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty) writes:
>>which model A008?  the trick gumballs will be very shortlived on
>>the street (ca. 6000 miles)?  in any event, A008s are prone to
>>hydroplaning, although the relatively recent versions do stick to
>>damp pavement well when there is no standing water.


>I got 50,000(!) miles on a set of original A008's with an '85 CRX Si.  So,
>"your mileage will vary".  Given the car in question, though, I'd expect 
>far less longevity with any of the A008 line.

when i refered to `trick gumballs', i was talking about the racer
versions of the 8, the A008R, the A008Rtu, and the A008RS; the compound
in these tires sticks to dry pavement incredibly well, and doesn't
last very long at all.  the original A008 could conceiveably last
50,000 miles if not driven abusively.

>I second that recommendation.  Got 40,000 miles on my A509's with an Audi 80.
>I'm just replacing them with Pirelli P600's.  Don't have any comparative
>info yet.  The Aa509's were a great tire at a very good price.

quite frankly, i'll wager that you will want your A509s back.

cheers,
  richard
-- 
richard welty                            518-393-7228
welty@cabot.balltown.cma.com
  ``if you can read this, mario, you're too close''
    -- bumper sticker seen on a CART safety truck
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ldahlmey@zia.aoc.nrao.edu (Lothar Dahlmeyer)
Subject: Re: Audi hard to start
Keywords: Audi, starting
Organization: National Radio Astronomy Observatory, Socorro NM
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 92 17:51:36 GMT

In article <1992Aug20.214628.21191@ttinews.tti.com> steve-c@thumper.tti.com writes:
>
>
>  A friend of mine has a 1981 Audi 4000 that has trouble starting (i.e. engine
>cranks but does not start). She says that this problem seems to occur when the
>gas gauge reads below half a tank and especially when it reads near a quarter
>of a tank. Temperature doesn't seem to have anything to do with it because it
>happens when the engine is cold or warm. Does anybody have any ideas. Thanks.

One possible cause:

Early Audi 4000's have been notorious for developing excessive vacuum 
in the gas-tank because of a faulty vent-line valve (I forgot its proper
name :) ) which is located just above the tank. To reach it, you will have
to remove the plastic tank-cover in the trunk behind the rear seat.
I have seen collapsed gas-tanks because of this. Strong fuel pump, no? :)
Good Luck.


-- 
            /MMMMMMMMMMM\             | ldahlmey@aoc.nrao.edu 
          {|  /\  ~  /\  |}           | Lothar Dahlmeyer  
______nnnn_|_|_@|   |_@|_|_nnnn_______| National Radio Astronomy Observatory
      UUUU       \_/       UUUU       | Socorro, New Mexico, 87801
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sukenick@sci.ccny.cuny.edu (SYG)
Subject: Re: Electrical Question: Multiple Batteries?
Organization: City College of New York - Science Computing Facility
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 14:53:31 GMT

>>can't touch the metal of your car (sparks, roasted wire, blown out diode).

if that is a  real possibility, the connect the diode between ground.
Then jump it if it needs to pull big current (like starting) 
.
Then if it shorts to ground, no fireworks.

>You might want to disconnect the diode while at the site, otherwise
>your car battery can be drained as well.

The solution to that would be to hook a relay, with the coils connected
to anything that is on when the car/truck is running.
From: jss@greeble.Eng.Sun.COM (Josh Sirota)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Acura Integra clutch questions
Date: 12 Aug 92 20:39:05 GMT
Reply-To: jss@greeble.Eng.Sun.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
NNTP-Posting-Host: greeble.eng.sun.com

In article 39670085@hpcc01.corp.hp.com, divitt@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Mark Divitt) writes:
>	     Question for you '87(?) thru '89 Acura Integra owners out there.
>    How long have you gone between new clutches? and under what type of 
>    driving conditions?  My Integra is at 41k and needs a new one and my
>    buddies went to 65k before replacement.  I drive some city and some
>    (less) highway.  How often should the clutch be adjusted?  BTW, I have
>    a '89 RS.  Thanks for any and all replies.

I got about 105K out of mine (in my '86 LS).  The throwout bearing actually failed 
before the clutch disk itself, which my mechanic had never seen before.  But when we 
took it all apart to replace the bearing and the disk, it was pretty clear that the 
disk was on its last legs anyway.

I adjust my clutch about every 10K miles or so.  Doesn't require much of an
adjustment.

Clutch wear depends a lot on how you drive, and how you start from a stop.  Do you
keep the pedal depressed at red lights?  Don't.  Do you downshift by shifting down
and then slowly letting the pedal out to bring the revs up?  Don't.  Blip the throttle while the clutch is depressed to get the revs up.  Then you can let the pedal out
faster.

There's no reason that you shouldn't be able to get twice the miles you got, if not
more.  I was disappointed that mine lasted only 105K!

Josh
--
      Josh Sirota			INTERNET: jss@eng.sun.com
      Multimedia Platforms		Sun Microsystems, Inc.
From: wb8foz@skybridge.SCL.CWRU.Edu (David Lesher)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Rotary engine.. what makes it different?
Date: 23 Aug 92 14:38:48 GMT
Reply-To: wb8foz@skybridge.scl.cwru.edu (David Lesher)
Organization: NRK Clinic for habitual NetNews abusers - Beltway Annex


The best answer I ever heard to this was from a friend who owned
an RX-2:
	In & out is ok for sex, but a car engine should go
	round and round..

;-}
--
A host is a host from coast to coast..wb8foz@skybridge.scl.cwru.edu
& no one will talk to a host that's close..........................
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433
From: alex@Apple.COM (Alex Rangel)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Motorcycle for sale
Date: 15 Aug 92 20:45:08 GMT
Organization: Apple Computer Inc., Cupertino, CA

1988 Honda Shadow,
600VLX, 10K miles, very good condition.
$2,100.00.
To respond to this add call (408) 446-3137


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sukenick@sci.ccny.cuny.edu (SYG)
Subject: How is the pittman arm/ steering bas connected to the box?
Organization: City College of New York - Science Computing Facility
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 15:13:06 GMT

I want to change the (power) steering gear box on my car.. '79chevy malibu.
I can't find  anything on it in my Chilton's manual.  So, if you have ever
done this or taken  apart this part  of the front end, I would appreciate
any information.   I guess I'd like to know how much is involved
before I dive in :-).  My feeling is that the couplings should all
be splines, and so am I wrong in guessing that all that will have to be
done is to pop off the hoses, then the old gear box and put in the new one
(ie is it as straightforward as taking  off a rear drive shaft?) or will it
be lots of fasteners in impossible places with exact spec 
nuts  & bolts to be attached?
From: Rainer_Hauer@mindlink.bc.ca (Rainer Hauer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Electric Cars
Date: 22 Aug 92 04:05:02 GMT
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada
Distribution: world



Hi Folks,

It seems to me that with all the talk that's taken place recently on different
newsgroups (rec.autos, sci.environment etc..) as well as impending
legislation in California and all the research that's taking place in
car companies etc, that it would be a good idea if a group was created
specifically for this class of vehicle.
Suggested topics could include:
Relative pollution levels between electric and combustion vehicles ( to be
turned into a FAQ?).
Current vehicles available (US and worldwide)
Current News articles
Town planning w.r.t electric vehicles
Legal aspects (e.g. crash resistance, or lack of it!)
etc,etc.

The group could be called something like rec.autos.electric.

How about it then, anybody interested in a group like this ?
===========================================================================
 Send a short response vote to   rainer_hauer@mindlink.bc.ca

               Subject: electric car vote
======================================================================

--
======================================================================
 Contact   rainer_hauer@mindlink.bc.ca
=====================================================================
From: brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Clocks anyone?
Date: 12 Aug 92 17:02:42 GMT
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC

In article <h645788@pro-haven.cts.com> shadow@pro-haven.cts.com (Blaine Hufnagle) writes:
>I noticed today that the factory clock in my truck started working again, for
>the thirty millionth time...  It seems that every Chevy truck factory clock
>will run for about the first 25K miles, then it'll quit for several months,
>and then work for a few weeks, then quit, etc etc ad infinitum.  
>

Take the clock to a competent watch/clock repair shop and have it cleaned and
oiled. (Don't do it yourself - the oils they use are far better refined than
what you can buy at the hardware store, so to avoid future gumming up.)


 
Ted Brooks
 ______________________________________________________________________
| Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are my own, and do not reflect    |
| those of my employer. Advice is free, but you get what you pay for.  |
|                               ________                               |
|                         _____|  1955  |_______                       |
|                        /      Chevrolet      /                       |
|                       /______  BelAir  _____/                        |
|                              |________|                              |
|______________________________________________________________________|
From: adammot@ltrnativ.UUCP (Adam Mottershead)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Emissions - Help!
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 92 13:42:45 EDT
News-Software: FSUUCP 1.2 R4
X-Mailer: DigiQR 5.38b
Reply-To: adammot@ltrnativ.UUCP (Adam Mottershead)
Distribution: world
Organization: The All Ter Nah Tive Un Der Groend

I own a '87 5.0L Mustang.  To put it lightly, I am not mechanically inclined
and don't know that much about the inner workings of car.

Lately, I have noticed a knocking and banging sounds coming from the car
at certain RPM's.  The best way to describe the sound is that it sounds like
a stone trapped in the exhaust system.  The sound comes from the exhaust system
and not the engine compartment.  Could one of the catalytic convertors need
replacing.

Here is a very rough diagram of what the 5.0L exhaust system looks like.

                      Headers          Headers
                        \\\\            //// <- From Engine
                         VVV            VVV
                          |              |
                          |              |
                          |              |
                          |              |
                          |              |
                         / \            / \
                         \ /            \ / <- Sound comes from here, is this
                          |              |     the Catalytic Convertor?
                          |              |
                          |              |
                          |              |
                         I I            I I
                         I I            I I <--- Tailpipes
                         I I            I I

Well, excuse my ascii graphics.  Oops, I think I forgot an H-pipe in there.

--
Adam Mottershead                      |
39 Havelock Drive                     |
Brampton, Ontario                     |             adammot@ltrnativ.UUCP
Canada, L6W 4K8                       |
+1 416 454 8597                       |
                                                                          --
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

Yes, I have also heard that you want it rough near the curves in the
manifolds, too.  If it is too smooth, the fuel will get plastered to
the walls and stick, going back into a liquid form rather than being
atomized droplets.

Wes Fujii

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Wes Fujii               *           JAPANESE BUSINESS MOTTO           *
* Boise, Idaho            *        You can buy anything you want        *
* wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com *             with a lot of money             *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
From: norcott_bill@tandem.com (Bill Norcott)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 90 Escort GT engine race at idle ?
Date: 18 Aug 92 16:30:51 GMT
Reply-To: norcott_bill@tandem.com  (Bill Norcott)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Tandem Computers, Inc.

In article <Bt5xzH.110@news.cso.uiuc.edu>, jsc52962@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Jeffrey S. Curtis) writes:
|> 
|> Is there any way for normal humans to read the codes off the EEC-IV,
|> or do you *have* to pay the $50-$60 for your friendly Ford dealer
|> to do it?

You can read the fault codes by using a $20 volt-ohmmeter from Radio
Shack.  You simply use a wire to jumper two of the pins of the star
connector, attach the (-) lead of the VOM to another pin, and attach
the (+) lead to your car battery.  The whole procedure is described
in detail in volumes by Mitchells and Chilton on electronic engine
controls, you can find these in your public library.  You turn on the
ignition and the needle swings in a pattern.  By couting the pulses
you get the trouble codes.  They also sell for about $30-40 special
trouble code readers that plug into the star connector and read out 
the actual numbers of the fault codes on a display.  The books also
have flow charts to help you diagnose the car based on the fault codes
and other tests.

It is certainly worth maybe 10 minutes in the library to save $50.

-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------|
Bill Norcott			GUARDIAN POSIX project
Tandem Computers, Inc.		
10600 N. Tantau Avenue		PHONE:  (408) 285-3253
Cupertino, CA   95014		EMAIL: norcott_bill@tandem.com
From: samblane@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Sean Samblanet)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Octane ratings
Date: 19 Aug 92 20:58:23 GMT
Reply-To: samblane@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Sean Samblanet)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

>In rec.autos.tech, electro@matt.ksu.ksu.edu (Eric L Patterson) writes:
>
>>How would I go about figuring the optimum octane rating for my vehicle?
>>Thanks

You should use what the manual says.  But if the car has a knock sensor
and is computer controlled(meaning the timing)  then_ the highest octane
gas will give you a little more horsepower.

Sean
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: Toyota Camry Timing Belt
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 92 10:12:37 GMT

feats@vtvm1.cc.vt.edu wrote:
: I have a 1986 Camry that had 90K miles when the belt did break.  All
: that happened was that the engine quit running.  We had it towed to a
: dealer and they replaced the belt.  I can't remember how much it cost
: but it was more than $50.  Anyway, we now have 106K miles and she's
: still running well! 
: 
: Does anyone know where to get replacement carpets for the 86 Camry?  I
: called the dealer and they wanted over $600 for new carpets which is
: TOTALLY ridiculous!!! 

Just out of curiousity, why does anybody use timing belts at all?  It seems
to me that chains & gears are so much more dependable.  I've never heard
of a timing chain going (on SAABs, anyway, no experience with others), and
gears are noisy but even better.

Is it a cost thing, a 'planned obsolesence' thing, or just stupidity?

Just curious.
--
Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.
hinz@picard.med.ge.com
From: brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Protecting our interests (was: Re: SURVEY: Home mech's favs)
Date: 19 Aug 92 15:01:24 GMT
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC

In article <1992Aug19.062857.19702@mr.med.ge.com> hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987) writes:
>ira b ekhaus (ibe@world.std.com) wrote:
>
>: Eventually , states will not allow the older. simpler cars on the
>: road.  The DIYer's will have to confront the newer technology.  The
>
>They'll have to pry my cold, dead fingers away from the steering wheel of my
>smoky, carburetted, 2-stroke SAABs, because I won't give them up for any damn
>POLITICIAN!
>
>Or, any of my cars.  If they want to regulate the new stuff, they have that
>priviledge (as long as we LET them), but if they try to come after cars which
>were built decades ago, and tell us we can't use them, then they're asking for
>problems.
>
I couldn't agree with you more, but this may be coming to a point where we have
to stand up and fight for our right to keep the politicians out of where they
don't belong.

A number of magazines, especially Old Cars Weekly, have been tracking the 
activities of our congressmen in Washington. In a typical knee jerk political
stupor, there have been a number "clunker" bills introduced to Congress in the
past 2-3 years designed to rid the roads of older cars via pollution credit
incentives and whatnot. Sen William Roth has been the most prolific introducer
of these bills. Most have died, but there is currently one in the Senate on
this subject (don't have the bill # with me).

While I am not exactly the politically active type (I vote regularly, but have
probably written all of 1 letter to my congressman in my life), I'm beginning
to think it's time I got off my a** & let my feelings be known to these folks.
If this nonsense continues, us old car nuts may have to become politically
active (a la NRA, Right to life, Moral Majority, Greenpeace, or whatever) to 
protect our hobby from being legislated out of existence. (That's not likely
to happen immediately, but with the lack of a decent reality check in our
political machinery, it's possible).

I will post the bill # if those of you in netland are interested in following
up on this.
 
Ted Brooks
 ______________________________________________________________________
| Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are my own, and do not reflect    |
| those of my employer. Advice is free, but you get what you pay for.  |
|                               ________                               |
|                         _____|  1955  |_______                       |
|                        /      Chevrolet      /                       |
|                       /______  BelAir  _____/                        |
|                              |________|                              |
|______________________________________________________________________|
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: apuzzo@ucsu.Colorado.EDU (Tony Apuzzo)
Subject: Re: Acura Integra clutch questions
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 16:21:29 GMT

In article <39670085@hpcc01.corp.hp.com> divitt@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Mark Divitt) writes:
>	     Question for you '87(?) thru '89 Acura Integra owners out there.
>    How long have you gone between new clutches? and under what type of 

Another datapoint:

My 87LS 3dr has 90k miles on the original clutc, and I often rev to
1.5-4k RPM to get going.  The clutch seems very 'soft' to me (i.e., it
slides a lot until it's engaged) but once engaged seems to hold okay.
I often shift at redline and double clutch / heel&toe the downshifts. 

A related question:

Another poster mentioned that the fuel meter acts a bit funny below 1500RPM,
I can second this!  My idle is set around 700RPM and the engine sputters
and misses (but never quite stalls) if I don't rev it up a bit prior to
taking off, it pulls away from a stop like a diesel Rabbit pulling a
boat until it hits about 1500 (or so) RPM, then it takes off.  Does anyone
know if the Integra is "supposed" to do this?  My mechanic says there's
nothing wrong, but I still wonder.


-Tony
-- 
*                                                         
* Be a non-conformist like me and don't use a .sig at all.
*                                                         
From: leonglaw@hpsgm2.sgp.hp.com (Lawrence Leong)
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 1992 13:55:48 GMT
Subject: Petrol leak
Organization: HP Singapore
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

Hi all.  While I was waxing my car, I noticed a petrol smell at the rear left
wheel (that's where the filler cap is).  Verified that the cap was good
(borrowed new cap), so that leaves the hoses at the base of the filler pipe, 
and assorted fuel return lines.

Is there any method of checking for petrol leaks?  I don't know if the leak is
from the joints between the hoses, or if the hoses themselves leak.

Thanks
lawrence

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech