From: jdm@sequent.com (Jeff Maurer)
Subject: Re: Need info on Grand Turk diving
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems, Inc.
Distribution: sqnt
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 92 16:22:07 GMT

geary%cfa3.DECNET@cfa.harvard.edu writes:
>On a recent trip, I had the opportunity to make a couple of dives
>on Grand Turk and was quite impressed with the wall topography and
>fauna of the place. I am considering a return trip to do a more
>extensive dive program and have a few questions that are not well
>addressed in postings in the archives.

>(1) There were places where the reefs seemed to start fairly near
>shore (100 m or so). Does anyone have any experience with shore
>diving on Grand Turk?

I _tried_ it a couple years ago while staying at the Salt Raker.  Note
that the reef proper (the wall) is nearly 1/4 mile from the beach at
this point.  It's a long way to snorkel!  There are some places both to
the north and south (the old pier, or Governor's Beach to the south for
example) that are close enough to dive if you've got a rental car to haul
gear in, but it's not like Bonaire, you've still got some swimming to do.


>(2) Do any of the dive operations on Grand Turk offer 3 dives a day?
>I hate to hang it up with just two dives after spending all that
>money to get there and for lodging, food, etc.
I'm not aware of any.  Off the Wall might, I'm quite sure that Blue
Water Divers doesn't.  Liveaboards like Captain Bob's Aquanaut and the
Turks and Caicos Aggressor probably offer the most dives/day in the area.


>(3) Does anyone have any experience (good or bad) with the new Off
>the Wall dive operation?
I haven't done any business with them, we've always worked with Mitch
and Dave of Blue Water Divers, but on one of our dives this year we encountered
a dive group from Off the Wall at a dive site.  The divemaster was somewhere
under the boat and various members of the dive group were spread around the
reef and wall.  A number of them were obviously inexperienced divers and were
doing a "deep dive" on their own!  I was swimming with Mitch who became
absolutely furious with the OTW divemaster.  One of the few times I could
clearly understand someone talking underwater!  Off the Wall is working out
of what used to be Guanahani Beach Hotel, the nicest complete facility on the
island (albeit a bit sterile), with the possible exception of the Pillory
Beach Hotel (on windward side).  Both of these are a fair distance from the
"hub of activity" (I use the term very generously).

I guess I've just come to really like diving with Blue Water Divers.  They
use Carolina Skiffs (small, open, flat-bottom boats) with small groups.  We
would often have only 4-6 divers in our group.  I won't say that they're
_completely_ professional, and their operation definitely has a "tico-time"
feel.  But they are knowledgable, conscientious divemasters, and I've
enjoyed diving with them two years running.


>(4) Are there any apartments/condos for rent? Rental cars?
There are rental cars available.

Last year we stayed in a guest house and loved it.  It's the upper level
of a small business that sells jewelry and shell crafts.  It has a large
sun porch, it's own bath, and breakfast is included (great breakfast I
might add!).  It's about a block from the waterfront in town.  We paid
around $90 per night (for two).  It's called: Douglas Gordon's Shell
Shack.  I can probably dig up an address if you're interested.  Mr. Gordon
is an ex-pat from the U.S., he used to own and operate the Salt Raker.
Doug and Jenny really took care of us.

There are some nice homes for rent.  They are fairly expensive and getting
info on them can be difficult.


Other random thoughts:

Last year we took a day and flew to Salt Cay.  Overall I wouldn't
recommend this.  There are some nice coral heads for snorkeling and some
fabulous beaches, but I don't think it was worth the time and money.  We
talked to divers on the island, and all of them thought that the diving
was better on Grand Turk than Salt Cay.

Spend an afternoon in the museum just north of town.  It's an incredible
place, particularly given the general condition of the rest of Grand Turk
(i.e. economically poor).  Well worth a couple hours of your time.  Great
displays on underwater archaeology.  It's also one of the few places you
can buy Island crafts, such as grass baskets from North Caicos.

I would recommend that you do a "cay trip", that is take a day and boat to
one of the nearby uninhabited cays, such as Gibbs, for some snorkeling
(usually with a dive on the way over), exploring and sunbathing.  

Rent a car or a bike and go up to the old Smithsonian mariculture center.
They've got a lookout tower up on the hill that gives you a great view
of Grand Turk.  Below, on the windward side, is a deserted beach that's
fun to explore.

A night dive on the wall (we did The Library) is well worth the effort.

If you stay at the Salt Raker, don't settle for anything less than the
upper level suites (there are two) above the main building.  Even after
the remodel these are the best place to stay at the Raker.

The Salt Raker's Garden Bar seems to be the main gathering place for locals
and divers alike.  The Turk's Head Inn comes in second (about a block
north from Salt Raker).

If you dive in May/June timeframe you'll most likely hit an plankton bloom
which reduces visibility to 70-100'.  On the other hand, it also brings in
manta and eagle rays.  No guarantees, but we've sure had some great
encounters.

One of the dive operations touts a hyperbaric chamber, which is true.
Unfortunately, to my knowledge it hasn't been hooked up and no one is
qualified to operate it!  I think Provo has the nearest chamber.

Grand Turk is not for everyone.  It's been about eight years since I was
in Bonaire, and Grand Turk makes me think of what Bonaire must've been
like around 1960.  The two islands have a lot in common: limestone
foundation, arid climate, flat topography, short trips to sites, etc.  
You won't find casinos, shopping, high-rise hotels or fancy restaurants.
The island is fairly dirty.  It can be hard to get to.  BUT...

o  We've spent an entire day on some of the most beautiful beaches I've
ever seen - without seeing another person.  On most of our dives we were
the only dive boat within eyesight.

o  The underwater topography is fantastic:  chimneys, arches, undercuts,
tremendous drop-offs, pristine corals, sponges, deep water gorgonia, and
plentiful and diverse critters.

o  The dive sights are moored and the operators are being careful to
protect the reef.  Pressure on the sights is low compared to places like
Cayman or Bonaire.



Good luck,
jdm
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            /        Jeff Maurer, Sr. Analyst
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