HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: ben@ut-emx.uucp (Benjamin J. Sloan)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Yes, you can buy a Hummer
Summary: Nieman Marcus has them!!!
Date: 20 Aug 92 18:00:53 GMT
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin; Austin, Texas

DKAMERUD@cmsa.gmr.com writes:
>Previous traffic on the net concerned the Hummer (not HumVee) built by
>AM General Corp. (not AMC) and and said to be sold only to celebs

Actually, his and hers HMMVRs, or whatever the real designation is, were
available in last Christmas's Nieman Marcus catalog for about $50K each. 
They were outfitted for consumer use.  Also, I believe NM advised that they
would not be delivered until this October, so it doesn't sound like LTV
is up to speed on the civilian model just yet.

Just to add my $.02, they may be unique, but they're also gross looking
and thoroughly unrefined.  Considering a tricked out Range Rover is 
cheaper, I don't see much reason to go to such lengths to putt around in
the same chunk of metal thousands of Army privates drive every day.

Cheerio,

Ben Sloan
ben@emx.utexas.edu

Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: freedmanm@woods.ulowell.edu
Subject: Re. Marchal Fog Lights
Organization: University of Lowell
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 21:48:57 GMT

If you are looking for  Cheap Marchal Fog lights... go to a Renault parts 
reseller... They are cheaper... 

			P.S.  French Company.
					Mike
From: ytl@philabs.philips.com (Ying Tat Leung)
Subject: Re: Engine jerking problem
Originator: ytl@pooh
Reply-To: ytl@philabs.philips.com (Ying Tat Leung)
Organization: Philips Laboratories, Briarcliff, NY 10510
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 13:23:23 GMT


In article <l8mkraINN1sj@exodus.Eng.Sun.COM>, klein@napali.Eng.Sun.COM (Mike Klein) writes:
|> In article 27086@oracle.us.oracle.com, jpau@oracle.com (Jeffrey Pau) writes:
|> >Hi, I have an 87 VW GTI, for the last few months, it has developed a problem that I
|> >can't identified.  Everytime when I give the engine some mild sudden gas, the whole
|> >car jerks on me.  The more sudden gas I give/stop giving, the more jerking motion I feel.
|> >For everyday driving, it becomes very annoying and I can feel the jerking motion (from
|> >the engine bay) through my steering wheel everytime I change gear.  Talking to many
|> >mechanics, they all thought that was caused by a worn engine mount.  So I changed both 
|> >the front and right rear engine mounts (they both looked good, but I replaced them 
|> >anyway), without any improvments, I desperately need some good suggestions.  
|> >
|> >Has any GOLF/GTI owners experienced similar problem?  My car has 83,000 miles on it.
|> 
|> I have an '85 GLI and get something like this.  It started recently,
|> and only happens when the gas tank is nearly empty (like, 2-4 gallons
|> left).  Also the fuel pump makes noise at this level.  Haven't tried to
|> trace it further.  It feels like the engine momentarily cuts out on
|> me.  Could be a tank of bad gas sometime in the past.
|> ---
|> 
|> Mike Klein		{wherever}!sun!klein || mike.klein@Eng.Sun.COM
|> Sun Microsystems, Inc.	Mountain View, CA
|> 

My 88 Jetta has a kind of similar problem.  After the engine is started and
run for a minute or two, this jerking appears momentarily (for less than a 
minute or so).  I had the car idle and observed the engine rpm carefully as
I stepped on the gas, finding that the engine rpm will drop back to idle then
immediately goes back up to the correct rpm AS I HELD MY FOOT ON THE GAS PEDAL.
This happens when the engine is at 2000-2200 rpm and will occur several times,
one after the other, if I continued to hold my foot on the gas.  It seems that
this will only occur at a particular engine temperature, as the engine warms up
the problem goes away.

I've used Techron injector cleaner and the fuel transfer pump is new (just 
replaced a few months ago).  I do not hear any noise and the car starts fine.
What problem have I encountered?  Water in gas?  Water is not that likely as
I've been having this problem for a while now (over many tanks of a few
brands of gas).  And of course when I took it to the mechanic he "couldn't
reproduce the problem."

Perhaps other fellows having similar problems before could give a clue.  Thanks
in advance.

Regards,
Ying
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: eldred@rrunner.jpl.nasa.gov (Dan Eldred)
Subject: Re: Vanagon tire replacement
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 17:41:13 GMT

In article <0=+1Hxcg09@atlantis.psu.edu> hvozda@wilbur.psu.edu (Eric Hvozda) writes:
>In article <1992Aug18.163859.3213@csi.jpl.nasa.gov> eldred@rrunner.jpl.nasa.gov (Dan Eldred) writes:
>
>>I highly recommend the light truck tires made by Michelin and also
>>sold by Sears.  The size is something like 195/80 R14.  You can
>>inflate these guys to something like 55 psi, and they are tough
>>enough to take the side loads incurred by the VW vans.  I've had
>>nothing but trouble with passenger tires on the VW vans, which
>>I have owned since '76.  In fact, I've had a couple blow out, and
>>almost all the passenger tires have been unraveling near the
>>ends of their tread lives.  BTW cost is somewhat high, about $75 per
>>tire.  Also, they're rated for mud and snow, but the snow traction
>>doesn't seem to be all that hot.
>
>Why go to such an extreme?  Michelin makes the XZX which is an excellent tire
>on today's Vanagons and yesteryears Type IIs.   They do well in snow, wear well
>and hold the load.  We get about 30-40K out of a set.  Plus they are way
>cheaper than $75 a throw.  I think they are more like $50 or $40 a tire.
>
'Cause passenger tires just don't hold up on the vans.  Too much side
load, I guess.  I can say this from experience having driven VW Vans
(a '71 and an '80 Vanagon) about 180,000 miles.

	- Dan
Organization: Sophomore, English, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 10:24:35 -0400 
From: "Douglas S. Brashear" <db6j+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: bug tire sizes

Hi!
I am nearing the time for renewing my volkswagen superbeetle ('74) and I
have a few questions...

Is 165sr15 's the only tires that will fit on my standard VW rims?
I would like to get steel belted radials, but are metric radials the
only possibilities?
Please let me know what you guys have, but keep in mind, that these are
stock rims and not custom jobs.
Thanks much in advance!
DOUG
db6j+@andrew.cmu.edu
From: barron@lsl.co.uk
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Rattle from front suspension
Date: 19 Aug 92 09:47:35 GMT
Organization: Laser-Scan Ltd., Cambridge

Hello,
   I have a problem with the front near-side suspension on a 1983
Volkswagen Jetta C (A Reg).

At low speeds the suspension made a rattling noise. I decided
that the bearing at the top of the suspension strut had gone and
replaced it. With the strut off the car, the spring under compression
and a new bearing fitted, I found that the bearing wobbled a bit against
the spring seat. I assumed I had lost a spacing washer but looking
at the diagram in the workshop manual, I'm not so sure.

The suspension is rattling again, so it seems if fixed the wrong thing
(anyone want to buy an almost new strut bearing?!). Looking at the
manual it suggests that suspension rattling can be caused by the
top and bottom of the spring coil moving in the seats and suggests
sleeving as a remedy. However, says this is a problem with 
pre-November 1979 models only.

It has made me think that maybe it's OK for the bearing to wobble and
it is the tension in the spring that keeps the bearing steady. Could it
be that the coil spring is worn? The car doesn't appear to be sagging on
the nearside though. Any ideas?

   Thanks in anticipation,
                  Barry
From: dld80@duts.ccc.amdahl.com (Donald Dusza)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Dealer to avoid (revisited)
Summary: Mailer ate it
Keywords: dealer/service
Date: 13 Aug 92 07:31:00 GMT
Reply-To: dld80@JUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Donald Dusza)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

Two weeks ago I posted about my Jetta's battle at a local dealer.  I also asked
that everyone mail to me about their picks and pans for dealers.  I'm sorry
to say that my mailer somehow ate most of the letters I recieved. 8^p  So I will
ask EVERYONE out there (lurkers too) to mail your pick lists so I can post a 
list of dealers to go to and to avoid.  I welcome responses from all over the 
US and I will list dealers by state.  Be sure to include the city.  The people
who mailed before need to re-send their inputs (please).  Thanks in advance and
I plan to post the list sometime next week.

                                         Don Dusza

BTW--I took my Jetta back to Stan Antonio yesterday to get the cruise control's
vacuum switch installed.  I was in and out in 1.5 hours with no damage to the   car this time (probably because I waited in the waiting area instead of just
dropping it off). The cruise engages right away now.

                                          Don
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: tsc9a@holmes.acc.virginia.edu (Thomas S. Cook)
Subject: looking for a bus to buy
Organization: Information Technology & Communications
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 23:32:25 GMT

I need a VW bus!  I am looking for one in fairly good condition. I
would especially like the cooking area to be in nice condition since I
am going to be living out of it during my trip.  The bus does not have
to have an engine because I can get it towed to my house.  Any replies
would be helpful.

P.S. Has anyone had luck with putting a diesel in a bus or converting
the original engine to a diesel?
Also, what is a good engine to put in a bus to give it more power?

--
****************TOM COOK TSC9A@HOLMES.ACC.VIRGINIA.EDU**********************
************************UNIVERSITY OF VIRGINIA******************************
From: bjgaed@bb1t.monsanto.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Pushrod for 40hp VW?
Date: 20 Aug 92 06:58:43 CST
Organization: Monsanto Company, St. Louis, MO

For some reason I am having a devil of a time finding a pushrod for my 
40 hp 1200cc Ghia engine.  My parts store here in St. Louis can't find 
any new ones, and none of the local junkyards seem to have any used  
ones.  Haven't had too much problem with other 40hp parts except for 
long delays, just the #&*%!!! pushrod.  We can find 1300cc pushrods galore.

At this point my only option may be to shell out $$$ for a set of Gene 
Berg pushrods that can be cut to the correct length.

Does anyone out there have a source for this item?  I only need *one* 
but will pay reasonable $ for a set, if necessary.  Midwest location, 
if possible.

Has anyone ever taken the end off of a pushrod, cut it down, and then 
replaced the end?

As this is rather esoteric, please email sources, preferably with 
phone numbers so I can check on availability.  If I find a source I 
will post it.

After this experience I may swear off overhauling 40hp engines.  For 
what I have spent on parts and aggravation, and miles put on my wife's 
car running around after parts, I could have paid 3/4 of a rebuilt 
1500 or 1600 for the little beauty.  (In all fairness, a good fraction 
of those $$ went for the 6 volt-12 volt conversion.)

If I *ever* finish this job and the car actually runs, I will regale 
you folks with some interesting stories and hints on the 12 volt 
conversion.  I've had to solve some really bizarre problems that no 
one ever covers in the books.

-- 
--Electric Monk            (Bruce Gaede); 
                            e-mail: bjgaed@ccmail.monsanto.com

"...and then time started seriously to pass."
--Douglas Adams, _Dirk Gently's Holistic Detective Agency_
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: hall@satie.psu.edu (PeggyHall)
Subject: Re: Oil gasket replacement
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 92 07:34:10 GMT

In article <Dey8oB1w165w@bluemoon.rn.com> eire@bluemoon.rn.com (Chris Clinton) writes:
>On an '84 Scirocco I want to replace the oil gasket around the area
>where one normally pours in the engine oil (Is there a name for this
>area).  I can take the nuts off that are holding the cover down but
>the other cover to the side is not as easily removed (or is it?).
>Is there a procedure to free access to the whole area?  Could some
>helpfull soul post or email a reply?  Thanks
>
>
The gasket you are referring to is called the cam cover gasket and
is very easy to replace.  All you need to do is remove the eight
bolts that hold the cover to the head.  Also you have to remove the
breather hose and accelerator cable.  Then all you have to do to 
remove the "other cover" or upper timing belt cover is to remove
the circular hex bolt that bolts on to the side of the head below
the cam sprocket.  It is a relatively easy job to do and is well
worth it to improve the cleanliness of your engine.
From: andrew@airs.com (Andrew Evans)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: HOW TO FIX AUDI 5000S ?? ODOMETER, STRUTS ...
Date: 12 Aug 92 21:02:51 GMT
Distribution: rec.autos.vw

tcheung@gandalf.rutgers.edu (Tak Cheung) writes:

>(4) Is there an alternative manual for 85 Audi, the official one cost
>$90 and I've heard they are useless, is the 5 cylinder engine the same
>as that for VW quantum ??

I posted that.  I had the manual for the Audi 4000 series.  Compared
to the manuals that Bentley puts out for VW Golfs etc, this was the
pits.  No theory of operation on the major systems, poor organization
of information, and terrible repair procedures - many critical details
were left out for you to discover the hard way.  The manual for the
5000 series could be superb, but I've never seen it.  I'd want to give
it a good looking over before forking out the money.

A good alternative would be a Haynes manual, which are available at a
lot of auto parts stores and department stores.  They are generally
under $20 and are written specifically for the home mechanic.  This
means that the procedures generally do not require special tools,
which the official dealership manuals expect you to have for even
simple jobs.

Yes, the five-cylinder is the same, though some details might be
different as to the year and model.
-- 
Andrew Evans (andrew@airs.com) - Infinity Development Systems - Waltham, MA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: gould@theory.TC.Cornell.EDU (EWD)
Subject: Proposed Mini Audi 80
Organization: Cornell Theory Center
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 00:54:10 GMT


There's an interesting blurb in September's "European Car" 
about a proposed mini Audi 80:

"Based on the Audi 80, but with a shorter wheelbase, Audi's 
proposed base car is as small as a VW Golf I, has two doors 
with a big rear hatch, a body of aluminum and the use of extra-
light materials elsewhere for a very lightweight platform.
Audi's Ferdinand Piech has emphasized that such a car must
consume no more that 3 liters per 100 km." [78 mpg !]

This would certainly stop my whining about Audi abandoning
it's lightweight tradition.  And if it's truly kin to the 80
there could be quite a spectrum of performance options. 

Also mentioned in the issue are an aluminum bodied Audi V8,
and hatchbacks from MB and BMW.


Eliot W. Dudley
RD 1, Box 66
Cato, New York   13033
315 626 2878
edudley@mailbox.syr.edu
From: msirota@ee.rochester.edu (Mark Sirota)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Tire sizes
Date: 13 Aug 92 17:34:33 GMT
Reply-To: Mark Sirota <msirota@socrates.ee.rochester.edu>
Organization: University of Rochester Department of Electrical Engineering

In article <1992Aug13.010826.20494@cs.mun.ca> michael9@cs.mun.ca (Michael Sullivan) writes:
> I have an '85 Jetta that currently has 175/70R13 tires on it.  I also have
> four new winter tires from another car sitting around in the garage, but
> they are 185/80R13.  The local garage says as long as tires are the same
> radius (13") everything is fine.  But a semi-mechanic that I know tells me
> that the Jetta needs "low-profile" tires, and that the 185/80's are 
> "high-profile" so I can't use them, even though they are both 13".
>
> Who's wrong?  Can I use my 185/80's or not?  Does the semi-mechanic have
> any idea what he's talking about?  Help!

The semi-mechanic is closer to correct than your local garage.

The story is that you have 13x5.5" rims.  That is, your rims are 13" in
diameter and 5.5" wide.  So, you'll need a tire that has a 13" diameter
bead, and one that will fit on a 5.5" rim (which is anything from about 155mm
to about 195mm).

Now, that's what will fit on the RIM.  Your local garage is correct that the
185/80-13's will fit on the rim, since the bead diameter is 13" and the
section width is 185mm, which is within the range.

However, the 185/80-13's are almost 9% larger in outside diameter.  They
will cause a 9% error in your speedometer, will look ridiculous, and will
probably rub on the inner fenderwell.  So while they'll fit on the *wheel*,
they won't fit on the *car*.

Your semi-mechanic is not quite correct, either.  70-series tires are not
all that "low profile", though they are certainly lower profile than
80-series tires.  However, that alone is not good enough.  Not just any
70-series tire will fit, nor will just any 60-series or 55-series or
whatever.  To fit the car, the outside diameter of the tire must closely
resemble the outside diameter of the original tires, and profile alone does
not determine that.

Here's the nominal specifications for the tires:

Specification  Sidewall  Radius  Diameter  Circumference  Revs/Mile  Difference
175/70-13         4.8in  11.3in    22.6in         71.1in        891        0.0%
185/80-13         5.8in  12.3in    24.7in         77.5in        818        8.9%

Hope that helps without going into too lengthy a discussion of tire sizes...
-- 
Mark Sirota - Department of Electrical Engineering Systems Staff
University of Rochester, Rochester NY
 Internet: msirota@ee.rochester.edu
 UUCP:     rutgers!rochester!ur-valhalla!msirota
From: orban@ciit85.ciit.nrc.ca
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Injector cleaning - the "solution"
Date: 12 Aug 92 09:44:39 +0600
Organization: National Research Council

I posted a question some time ago about cleaning injectors.
First of all I would like to thank everyone who responded 
in e-mail or by posting.

I tryed to clean the injectors first with gasoline, then with
carburetor gum remover (smelled like kerosene) and finally with
a mixture of gasoline and injector cleaner additive. 
I finally bit the bullet, and bought new injectors, as out of 
the eight old injectors only two of them worked so-so after that
much cleaning. I will still try the ultrasonic cleaning though. 
I also probably have some rust as well in the injectors, not only
gum, as the last batch of gas had water in it, and rust/sand was
coming out every other parts of the FI system.

Thanks again, Peter,
--
Peter Orban                           | preferred: orban@ciit85.ciit.nrc.ca
National Research Council of Canada   | or: orban@nrcamt.ime.nrc.ca



Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: dali@milton.u.washington.edu (David A. Lee)
Subject: Tray needed for center tunnel in Type III
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 1992 02:07:24 GMT

I am looking for an organizer-tray for the center tunnel in my
Type III.  There was a kind manufactured for the Volkswagen that
went over the gear shift and extended all the way to the front
of the legroom.  I have checked Cambell Nelson, Bow Wow and the
Wagon Shop and no luck.
 
Does anyone have any ideas where else to check?  Any catalogues?
 
Thanks!
 
David
From: xepama@usmi02.midland.chevron.com (P.Mann)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Vanagon tire replacement
Date: 17 Aug 92 22:19:51 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: chevron

I have an '86 Westfalia Vanagon which is in need of new tires.  A
posting asking for information in 'rec.autos' brought a host of
suggestions, one of which was to ask the same question here.  So.. 

The information in the vehicle states that the tires should run
39 psi in front and 48 in the rear.  Manufacturers sell tires 
supposedly for this model which have a max prssure of 40 psi.
Are these safe?  Any recommendations?  (I need these soon for a
1300 mile drive, so mail order is out.)

Thanks in advance.
-- 
Parker Mann                    xepama@usmi02.midland.chevron.com
 
"Keep those cards and letters."
From: roy@alanine.phri.nyu.edu (Roy Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: reliable cars
Date: 19 Aug 92 15:05:03 GMT
Article-I.D.: phri.1992Aug19.150503.14100
Organization: Public Health Research Institute (New York)

tgpt_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Tom Guptill) writes:
>And don't forget to drain the water from the fuel filter.

	In 148k miles, I think I've drained the water from my fuel filter
once.  Doesn't seem to have hurt things any.  That's an engine that just
cries out for abuse, keeps on running when it gets it and says "more, more,
I love it!"  Just feed it a new head gasket and timing belt every 75k miles
and you'll be making school bus noises well into the next century.
-- 
roy@wombat.phri.nyu.edu (Roy Smith)
Public Health Research Institute
455 First Avenue, New York, NY 10016, USA
"This never happened to Bart Simpson."
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rich@mks.com (Rich Jones)
Subject: Oil changes.  How often?
Organization: Mortice Kern Systems Inc., Waterloo, Ontario, CANADA
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 21:51:09 GMT

Talk about contradicting information!  Will *someone* please tell me how
often I should change the oil in my 92 Jetta Turbo Diesel?

The owner's manual says every 8,000 kms.  I don't think this is often
enough, especially for a turbo.  In fact, the manual says every 12,000
for non-turbo diesels and gasoline engines.  To me, this sounds *way*
too long to wait between oil changes.

The salesman said that I'd be better to have it changed every 6,000.  Ok
fine, so at 6,000 I went in for an oil change.  The guy in service says
"You waited 6,000 kms for your first oil change?!"  My response: "No, I
had it changed at 1,500 just for good measure, but I was planning on
having it changed every 6,000.  Isn't that often enough?"

"No way.  You should have it changed every *4,000*.  But don't just take
my word for it.  Get a second opinion."
-- 
Richard Jones  ||  // // ,' /~~~\'  35 King Street North
rich@mks.com  /||/// //\\   `\\\   Waterloo, Ontario
            _/ | //_//  \\|\___/  Canada  N2J 2W9
      MORTICE KERN SYSTEMS INC.  (519) 884-2251
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: jackr@thorodin.dazixco.ingr.com (Jack Reed)
Subject: Re: Oil changes.  How often?
Reply-To: jackr@thorodin.dazixco.ingr.com
Organization: Dazix
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 16:49:13 GMT

In article <1992Aug18.215109.22913@mks.com>, rich@mks.com (Rich Jones) writes:
> 
> "No way.  You should have it changed every *4,000*.  But don't just take
> my word for it.  Get a second opinion."

I go 3 to 4 thousand _miles_ between changes. I think you'll find that
this is a good compromise between engine longevity and oil change frequency.

Jack
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: hall@satie.psu.edu (PeggyHall)
Subject: Re: Oil gasket replacement
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 92 07:51:34 GMT

In article <Dey8oB1w165w@bluemoon.rn.com> eire@bluemoon.rn.com (Chris Clinton) writes:
>On an '84 Scirocco I want to replace the oil gasket around the area
>where one normally pours in the engine oil (Is there a name for this
>area).  I can take the nuts off that are holding the cover down but
>the other cover to the side is not as easily removed (or is it?).
>Is there a procedure to free access to the whole area?  Could some
>helpfull soul post or email a reply?  Thanks


The gasket you are referring to is called the cam cover gasket and
is very easy to replace.  All you need to do is remove the eight
bolts that hold the cover to the head.  Also you have to remove the
breather hose and accelerator cable.  Then all you have to do to 
remove the "other cover" or upper timing belt cover is to remove
the circular hex bolt that bolts on to the side of the head below
the cam sprocket.  It is a relatively easy job to do and is well
worth it to improve the cleanliness of your engine.