HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.racing

Mike writes:
>/ misty:rec.bicycles.racing / strauss@umahe2.slac.stanford.edu /  1:13 pm  Dec 21, 1992 /
>In article <MJOHNSTO.92Dec17090223@jenny.shearson.com>, mjohnsto@jenny.shearson.com (Mike Johnston) writes:
>
>> Dave is an 
>> up-and-coming Cat III cyclist who worships Greg LeMond and does his
>> utmost to emulate Gregs heroic, supermacho cycling feats. 
>
>How in the world could anyone who spins up L'Alpe D'Huez at 120 RPM's
>in a 54x11 and creates a sonic boom while descending only be a Cat III?
>I'm so disillusioned.

Actually Dave (trumpet fanfare interlude) will be (in the tradition of all
good programming languages) the sole member of the new Cat 0 group. Then he 
can say "I've come to compete for naught. And I plan to win naught." - and 
Les will say "Look! It's Dave!". What say ye Master (BARK!) Harvey? Is it
time to come out of the Cat III closet and reveal yourself to be real reason
they need Ferarri's for the Tour's officials next year?

>
>Mike Strauss
>---------
Oh BTW - :^) :^)

                         Bill

			sole member of the Kitsap County Holdsworth
			commuting team (Boeing division) ;^)
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From: chris@carnival.lbl.gov (Chris Moll)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.racing
Subject: Re: Cyling and Doping
Date: 21 Dec 1992 15:39:47 GMT
Organization: Lawrence Berkeley Laboratory, California
NNTP-Posting-Host: carnival.lbl.gov
Keywords: n

Paul Sery writes:
>I drink quadruple espressos before tt's to enhance my performance.  

I'm not too happy with this.  I don't care for the effects of caffeine 
and I don't want to be obliged to take it if I want a level playing 
field.  I won't label you a drug abuser, but I don't care to compete with
you on that basis.

>I assume that since I drink lots of coffee everyday and am fairly heavy I'm
>okay but I really don't know.  So if my body assimilates it and I pass the
>test than I am not cheating. However, if I am the one-in-a-hundred that gets
>busted then I am considered to be a drug abuser.  It's that arbitrariness
>that makes it unfair.

There's a big difference between a cup of coffee the morning of a race and
half a bottle of NoDoz.  The only way to distinguish between the two is
to establish an arbitrary threshold.  If you're concerned that you might be
approaching anywhere near the limit don't drink so much coffee.

>If she [Janelle Parks] had just drunk coffee would you feel differently?

No.  I don't care where the caffeine comes from.  Whether the source is
legal/socially accepted is totally irrelavent to me.

Plus it would be a hell of a lot of coffee.

--
Chris Moll                       (510)486-7891
---
A vacuum is a hell of a lot better than some of the stuff that nature
replaces it with.        -- Tenessee Williams
From: mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Mackintosh)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.racing
Subject: Re: Cycling and Doping
Date: 23 Dec 92 13:26:41 GMT
Reply-To: mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Mackintosh)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.bicycles.racing, les@SAIL.Stanford.edu (Les Earnest) writes:

>Jim's remark that he has strong feelings on this issue helps explain
>his apparently odd assessment of the evidence.  While it is true that
>a very small amount of a steroid is probably not dangerous, there is
>also no reason to be using such substances routinely, unlike coffee or
>tea.

What is the reason for drinking coffee or tea regularly other than to
improve performance (or just wake up)?  I must admit that I drink neither
but do enjoy an occasional Coke (real sugar, caffeine).  Of course one
might just as easily enjoy the occasional amphetamine or other boost.
I'm not saying that caffeine should necessarily be banned but its not
a naturally accuring (in our bodies) substance or one that has any reason
other than as a drug.

David Mackintosh
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.racing
From: les@SAIL.Stanford.edu (Les Earnest)
Subject: Re: Cycling and Doping
Reply-To: les@cs.stanford.edu
Organization: Computer Science Department, Stanford University
	<hhgra-k@lynx.unm.edu> <2kgrhd_@lynx.unm.edu>
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 23:13:10 GMT

In an addendum to his article, jim warsa goes on to say:
   [.  .  .]  I also believe the sport SHOULD be clean. However,
   it isn't and drug testing is ruled necessary. This brings up another problem,
   though, and that is that the symptoms are being treated and not the cause. 
   The difficulty lies - as has been pointed out before - in the tremendous
   premium placed on winning, often at any cost. The impetus exists, then, for 
   some riders who are not quite at the top to try reach the top by whatever
   means they feel is necessary, and this sometimes means drugs. This the 
   reality; the ideal is that they reach the top through hard work and other
   forms of "natural" self-improvement. Until the ideal is acheived, there 
   will be drug and substance use and abuse. That is, the root of the problem 
   must be attacked eventually, or it will go on in one form or another.

This "root of the problem" that jim wishes to attack is simply human
nature, so I do not recommend attacking it.  In fact, I favor
accomodating it by offering, in addition to competition under medical
control regulations, unrestricted competition in which athletes can do
anything to their bodies they wish.

Unfortunately, in the current US political climate of the "War on
Drugs," my proposals along these lines to the USCF Board of Directors
have elicited only laughter or shocked denunciations.  I give them
about 10 years to figure out that I was right.
--
Les Earnest           Phone:  415 941-3984    Fax: 415 941-3934
Internet: Les@cs.Stanford.edu              USMail: 12769 Dianne Drive
UUCP: . . . decwrl!cs.Stanford.edu!Les         Los Altos Hills, CA 94022
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: H.ZIERKE@BI-LINK.owl.de (Hans-Joachim Zierke)
Organization: Hans-Joachim Zierke - Private Site in Berlin
Subject: Re: Automatic transmissions for bikes
Date: Fri, 01 Jan 93 13:00:00 +0100
X-Mailer: CrossPoint v2.1 R/211
X-Gateway: ZCONNECT UI bi-link.owl.de [RFC/Connect IIIb DOS v0.46]


On 30.12.92, EPLUS17@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu writes:

*>Yes.  And while they are at it, why not enclose the whole shebang to
*>protect it from the elements?  Welcome to the three speed hub; for a
*>while, Raleigh even sold a bike with a five speed hub.  

Doesn't Shimano sell their new 7speed-Coasterbrake-hub in the United
States?



Ciao
Hajo

--
Hans-Joachim Zierke  ##  Tel.: +49-30 / 394 8445  ##  Fax: +49-30 / 394 8447
                         h.zierke@bi-link.owl.de
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: jdu@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (john.d.unruh)
Subject: Re: Help! Freewheel wear!
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 15:03:41 GMT

In article <truesdel-171292190156@mac_dungeon.ics.uci.edu> truesdel@ics.uci.edu (Scott Truesdell) writes:
>In article <1992Dec17.171803.26067@icaen.uiowa.edu>,
>sbtaves@icaen.uiowa.edu (Steven Bradley Taves) wrote:

>> Now I have chain slippage when I get on it
>> (pedal hard). I was told that it was the rear sprockets wearing with my
>> old chain that now makes them incompatible with my new chain.  And I was told
>> that I would need to replace the chainwheel and, freewheel, which would run me
>> over $100.

>the side. Here is an attempt at ASCII graphics:
>    ___       ___       ___             __        __        __
>   /   \     /   \     /   \           /  \      /  \      /  \
>   |   |     |   |     |   |           |   \     |   \     |   \
>  /     \___/     \___/     \__      _/     \___/     \___/     \__
>
>            G O O D                             W O R N
>
>And it can be worse. The trailing edge can be peened over making the teeth
>look 'hooked'.
>

I have to differ slightly here.  THis is true for older freewheels and
cassettes.  With the new Hyperglide cassettes, there are all kinds of
shapes on the cog teeth.  Some look worn when new.  Others look broken
off.  I must say, however, that they have lasted pretty well for me.
Shimano either has a lot of engineering in the HG cog teeth or they used
a random number generator to determine the shapes.
>small ring. They cost about $20 and $15 each. The hard part about changing
>these is that you have to pull the cranks off the bottom bracket spindle.
>The tool costs about $15 but a friendly shop MIGHT pull them for you if you
>bought the parts from them.

If you take the chain off to the inside first, it is possible to remove
and replace the rings without removing the crank, saving the cost of the
crank puller.  It is much more difficult and not the recommended way to
do the job, but it can be done, at least if you have thin fingers.

I have seen cases with inexpensive Shimano road parts where changing from
a worn HG chain to a new Sedis chain required a readjustment of the rear
derailleur cable tension at the adjusting barrel to make the chain drop
into the gears correctly.  The cogs were OK, and everything was fine 
after we did some adjustments. 

John Unruh
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: mcsorley@acuson.com (Sean Mcsorley)
Subject: Phil Wood hubs
Keywords: hubs
Organization: Acuson; Mountain View, California
Distribution: rec.bicycles.tech
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 16:31:35 GMT

I have been using Bullseye hubs with the same arrangement

for three years.  It works very well.  The allens that came

with them are not metric so they have a little added security.

(most bike thieves that carry tools usually carry metric I 

would guess. until now). But this also means you will have to 

carry one extra allen wrench.  no big deal.  I have switched

the front hub to quick release for ease of transport now that

I have to drive to riding areas. Yhe hubs are on my mountain bike

BTW.  The only drawback to Bullseye, or Phils as a rear hub is

the necessity of using a threaded freewheel.  Sachs has a seven

speed that is compatible with Shimano Hype Campy, and the rest.

Have a friend with one who reports very good, but just a little less

than shimano Hype cassette quality shifting.

Happy trails  Happy Holidays   Happy New Year



Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech,rec.bicycles.misc
From: EPLUS17@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu (Richard Engelbrecht-Wiggans)
Subject: Re: How to check frame alignment:
Organization: C.C.S.O.
Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1993 03:25:34 GMT

In article <1993Jan1.032348.991@pegasus.com>
richard@pegasus.com (Richard Foulk) writes:
 
>Here's a paragraph out of a book I just bought on frame building that
>answers a question posed here some time back about checking a frame
>for alignment.  The book is Designing and Building Your Own Frameset (An
>Illustrated Guide For The Amateur Bicycle Builder), by Richard P. Talbot.
>
>	The ``acid'' test is to check the tracking.  To perform this test,
>  snap a 30 foot long chalk line onto a smooth surface such as a gymnasium
>  floor.  Mount a stem and handlebar on the frameset.  Center the front
>  and rear wheels on one end of the chalk line and hold the frameset so it
>  is vertical to the floor.  (A carpenter's spirit level taped onto the
>  handlebar drops will help here.)  Now, slowly push the wheeled frameset
>  along, keeping its front wheel centered on the line while maintaining
>  perpendicularity.  After traveling about 15 feet check the position of
>  the rear wheel.  It should still be centered on the line.  If it is not,
>  the frameset is out of alignment.  It could be due to misalignment in
>  the fork, the frame, or a combination of the two.  If the rear wheel is
>  still on the line after 30 feet, you can be assured your frameset is
>  aligned. ...
>
As I understand this, you are trying to check if the rear wheel tracks
straight behind the front.  I am too lazy to use a chalk line.  Instead
I ride my bike in a straight line on a road surface that records where
the tires tracked.  A light dusting of snow on the road works well; soft
tar or water sorta work.  Check if the two tracks coincide.  This may not
be as precise as the test you described, but it did alert me to bent
frames on a couple of occasions when purchasing used bikes.
 
..Richard E+17
 
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech,rec.bicycles.misc
From: "Michael Smith" <p00004@psilink.com>
Subject: Re: Whoosh -- splat!!
Organization: Performance Systems Int'l
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 19:50:50 GMT
X-Mailer: PSILink-DOS (3.3)

>DATE:   Wed, 23 Dec 1992 10:30:35 GMT
>FROM:   Les Earnest <les@sail.stanford.edu>
[conversation with a helmet engineer]
>I asked him how it worked and he explained that they put a helmet on a
>cadaver head with an accelerometer mounted in the center of the brain,
>then fire it into a wall to see what kind of accelerations they get
>inside the skull.

Perhaps he was pulling your leg -- uh, messing with your head -- oh, 
never mind. 

--Michael Smith


Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: ward@cs.uiuc.edu (Christ Ward)
Subject: Re: Wheel Wonderings
Organization: University of Illinois, Dept. of Comp. Sci., Urbana, IL
Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1993 17:52:16 GMT

jbrandt@hplred.HPL.HP.COM (Jobst Brandt) writes:

>Mark Chandler writes:

>> You could try Wheelsmith's 14/16/14 spokes.  They're lighter than
>> 14/15/14s and probably just as strong (I weigh 195 and ride them
>> off-road with Mavic Mod3Ds).

>Their spokes are not really 14/16/14 because that would cause spokes
>to fail on tightening (that is if you get them tight).  The spoke
>diameters most commonly in use are 2.0/1.8/2.0 mm and 1.8/1.6/1.8 mm
>in diameter with small variations in the smaller diameter.  There
>are also 1.8/1.55/1.8 and thinner spokes and these are the ones that
>rupture just about the time you get them tight because the torsional
>stress of tightening together with the tension make them exceed the
>rupture stress.  The combined torsion and tensile stresses have a
>greater effect than the sum of their independent effects.

Do the spokes fail at the bend?  If so do you think the problem would
occur with straight (i.e. Pulsar ala BMW) spokes?  Not that I can 
aford to buy new wheels right now...         


>So beware of unusual spokes and make sure they are earrantied by
>someone reputable.

>jobst_brandt@hplabs.hp.com
-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Chris T. Ward  DoD#0710   "Don't take life too seriously, you can never come
                           out of it alive."  -?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------  
 
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech,rec.bicycles.misc
From: richard@pegasus.com (Richard Foulk)
Subject: How to check frame alignment:
Organization: Pegasus,  Honolulu
Date: Fri, 1 Jan 93 03:23:48 GMT

Here's a paragraph out of a book I just bought on frame building that
answers a question posed here some time back about checking a frame
for alignment.  The book is Designing and Building Your Own Frameset (An
Illustrated Guide For The Amateur Bicycle Builder), by Richard P. Talbot.

	The ``acid'' test is to check the tracking.  To perform this test,
  snap a 30 foot long chalk line onto a smooth surface such as a gymnasium
  floor.  Mount a stem and handlebar on the frameset.  Center the front
  and rear wheels on one end of the chalk line and hold the frameset so it
  is vertical to the floor.  (A carpenter's spirit level taped onto the
  handlebar drops will help here.)  Now, slowly push the wheeled frameset
  along, keeping its front wheel centered on the line while maintaining
  perpendicularity.  After traveling about 15 feet check the position of
  the rear wheel.  It should still be centered on the line.  If it is not,
  the frameset is out of alignment.  It could be due to misalignment in
  the fork, the frame, or a combination of the two.  If the rear wheel is
  still on the line after 30 feet, you can be assured your frameset is
  aligned. ...

As soon as I can find where I hid my chalk line I'm going to give it a
try on my old ten speed ...

BTW: I recommend the book.  I haven't read any others on the subject yet,
and I haven't built my first frame yet, but the book is very thorough in
the particular techniques it covers.


-- 
Richard Foulk		richard@pegasus.com
From: jrdodd@waikato.ac.nz
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Computer Advice Needed
Date: 22 Dec 92 11:58:59 +1300
Organization: University of Waikato, Hamilton, New Zealand

Hi,  I'm sure we're all aware Xmas is coming,  and so I'm looking out for
a replacement computer to spend the expected cycling-money I'll be getting.

I'm looking especially at a Cateye model that's been around for awhile,
one with all the basic functions and is mounted so that it sits directly
over the stem.  It's pretty common so hopefully there might be some
coments it's users could make?  In particular it's performance in the
rain.

Ideally I'd also like auto start/stop and cadence functions,  with a screen
that displays at least speed and distance simulataneously.  Any ideas?

Thanks in advance,

Jonathan,  New Zealand (head south then turn right)


From: Stovall@f88.n106.z1.fidonet.org (Stovall)
Sender: Jpunix@urchin.fidonet.org
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Holiday spirit
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 22:52:08 -0500

D"H>My fiancee, Nan, is REAL cute. I hope we love each by the date of
D"H>the weddi...She's getting me a 57-tooth chain ring. I can't
D"H>wait to try it out on the local tri-bobs. I can't stand those guys.

It's nice to see someone so imbued with the holiday spirit. Did one
of those meenie tri-guys kick sand in your headset? If you can
catch them, be sure to mention your 57t ring...

Tom

___
 X SLMR 2.1a X Smile at your enemies...they'll wonder what you're up
to.

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: frank@molbio.cbs.umn.edu (Frank Williams)
Subject: Re: How to cold-set rear triangle to wider dropout width?
Organization: University of Minnesota
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 06:00:47 GMT

jrdodd@waikato.ac.nz wrote:
: Here's an untried idea for speading the rear triangle,  how about placing an
: old axle in the dropouts with bolts on the inside of the stays,  i.e. being
: pressed together.  Then using a spanner to gradually move one of the bolts
: towards an end,  thus spreading the stays evenly?

I tried a method something like this on my old Cinelli but it didn't
work well.  I used a woodworking clamp with two separate ends that slide
along a heavy bar.  The ends can be turned around so that they expand, and
they have rubber-backed pads which, I surmised, wouldn't dent the stays.
It bent the drive-side stay more than the left side.  The spring-back was
remarkable, and the fussing with repeatedly loosening the clamp was too
much hassle.  Remember that the seat stays should be set also.  For this 
reason, I'm a devotee of the "muscle beach" approach.  We each have 
our own ways of assessing risk vs. benefit, but beware that there is 
a chance that you can crack a tube, particularly on high-mileage frames.
A frame-builder aquaintance won't cold set frames without the owner
present, because the more you bend, the greater the risk.  Ultimately,
the customer decides how much risk is acceptable.  This absolves the
frame-builder if problems develop.  Relatively speaking, though, the
rear triangle is a cupcake compared to crashed head tubes.  Unfortunately,
the better the tubing, the harder it is to cold set.

Good luck!

Frank Williams
frank@molbio.cbs.umn.edu

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: EPLUS17@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu (Richard Engelbrecht-Wiggans)
Subject: Re: Phil Wood hubs
Organization: C.C.S.O.
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1992 22:47:38 GMT

In article <Bzrsy7.L9I@news.water.ca.gov>
stevec@water.ca.gov (Steve Croft) writes:
 
>Steve Manifold wrote:
>
>>> I recently read somewhere that Phil Wood hubs have a feature in
>>> which instead of using quick-releases, you can clamp the hubs to
>>> the dropouts via a allen bolt and washer. ... This seems
>>> like a good way to save some weight (maybe 200 g).
>
>
>Bob Parker responded:
>
>>It is as you describe...threaded on the inside.  Phil's stuff
>>is built to last so I'm not sure it saves any weight.
>
>I don't know about Phil Wood hubs, but usually hub makers do away with QR
>in order to have a solid axle which means more strength.  It also (usually)
>means more weight.
>
The axle in Phil Wood QR hubs is already strong enough for any abuse
I can give it...and that includes being a rear wheel on a triplet.  I
was told that the bolt-on Phil Wood model would allow the hubs to be
fastened to the dropouts more securely than possible with QR.  This
was of some concern to us on a tandem with non-vertical dropouts on
which the rear wheel would shift as soon as we both stood on the cranks.
Going to a Phil Wood bolt-on hub solved the problem.
 
(BTW, even if the solid axle were the same diameter as that with a QR--
often not the case--the extra metal is in a place that does very little
to increase the axle's resistance to bending.)
 
..Richard E+17
 
From: jbrandt@hplred.HPL.HP.COM (Jobst Brandt)
Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1993 00:29:00 GMT
Subject: Re: Wheel Wonderings
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories, Palo Alto, CA
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech

Mark Chandler writes:

> You could try Wheelsmith's 14/16/14 spokes.  They're lighter than
> 14/15/14s and probably just as strong (I weigh 195 and ride them
> off-road with Mavic Mod3Ds).

Their spokes are not really 14/16/14 because that would cause spokes
to fail on tightening (that is if you get them tight).  The spoke
diameters most commonly in use are 2.0/1.8/2.0 mm and 1.8/1.6/1.8 mm
in diameter with small variations in the smaller diameter.  There
are also 1.8/1.55/1.8 and thinner spokes and these are the ones that
rupture just about the time you get them tight because the torsional
stress of tightening together with the tension make them exceed the
rupture stress.  The combined torsion and tensile stresses have a
greater effect than the sum of their independent effects.

There will always be those who just discovered that they can male a
bicycle frame of thinner material and use thinner spokes, smaller
tires etc. than all those other people who have been doing this for
a long time and... surprise the stuff breaks.  In the case of thinner
spokes in particular, the problem boils down to weak wheels, not
because the spokes are too thin but that they cannot be tightened
sufficiently to give a strong wheel.  This is most often the case
with aerodynamic spokes that cannot withstand torsion of tightening.
Even while holding them against twist with pliers, they cannot be
adequately tightened.

So beware of unusual spokes and make sure they are earrantied by
someone reputable.

jobst_brandt@hplabs.hp.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: ae505@yfn.ysu.edu (Frank Krygowski)
Subject: Re: Wheel Wonderings
Organization: Youngstown State University/Youngstown Free-Net
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1992 15:40:58 GMT


Just a comment on the butted vs straight gage spokes:  I've never
seen a spoke break EXCEPT at the bend - and this includes butted
spokes.  Therefore, I figure you don't need the extra beef of a 
straight gage spoke.

On the front wheel of my favorite bike, I've got bladed spokes
(from Performance).  From what I understand, in almost any situation,
aerodynamics are more important than weight.  This is certainly true
in the front wheel - "rotating weight" notwithstanding.  The bladed
spokes have less drag than butted ones.

How much less?  I can't say I can FEEL the difference - but
intellectually, I know it's there.  Maybe it's good for inspiration.
Frank Krygowski  ae505@yfn.ysu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech