HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Organization: University of Illinois at Chicago
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 14:12:17 CST
From: <U11303@uicvm.uic.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: [W] Flashing LED on stereo
Distribution: usa
 <93021.233412U11303@uicvm.uic.edu> <12k379h@rpi.edu>

In article <12k379h@rpi.edu>, bossoj@nuge101.its.rpi.edu (Joseph Charles
Bossolini) says:
>
>In article <93021.233412U11303@uicvm.uic.edu>, <U11303@uicvm.uic.edu> writes:
>|>
>|> I also have a question about those leds.  How do they work on stock
>|> vw radios?  Do they have an extra wire in the harness that when low turns
>If I'm not mistaken, all new (91-on) VWs have the radios wired to the ignition
>so they are powered only when the key is inserted.  It is an easy hook up
>for an early VW/Audi.  All you need to do is hook up a relay in your power

Friend's '91 passat isn't that way.

>feed to the radio, and get the relay control line from the door buzzer
>power feed (you know, the one that buzzes when you open your door and still
>have the keys in the ignition).


I like the set up as is, only that the led doesn't flash. I was thinking
about just a simple switch in the dash to cut the power. And wire the memory
wire right before the switch. You could do that with the relay as well instead
of hunting for another power line that is always on.

Your sugestion is pretty good, thanks. I just don't know if I want to convert.

Mark.

--------
Mark Komosa       u11303@uicvm.uic.edu        DoD #0791        CB700SC
From: slhmz@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: The FIRE breathing bug!  Help!clo
Date: 25 Jan 93 15:17:08 MDT
Organization: Utah State University

> Ahh yes.. the reason that I will NEVER sell my '71 Super.. may not be
> worth much now... but it's a great car that has seen a lot of my sweat in 
> restoring/customizing it! I'd love to have a steel-sunroof in mine!
> Just a question.. where is this '72 from? I thought that all supers
> had the 1600 engines? Or is this not the original engine?

Nope!  It's not the original engine.  I bought the car yesterday, took it
home, pulled the engine (in only 15 minutes) and pulled off the heads.

The valves were like push rods!  No cap what-so-ever!

There is something else strange with this super-beetle as well.
It has a flat windsheild!  I thought that all supers had angled windscreens!
Whats the deal?  NO work has EVER been done on this car, from what I can see
and from what the previos owner says.

Plans for the engine (currently stock 1500):

   1641cc bore
   .009 distributer
   041 heads

Also, has anybody had any dealings with 4 star engine company?
I was thinking about getting there 1641cc Engine Rebuild Kit.

Also, should I get a new clutch, or will the stock handle the extra?

--
Travis Carter
   
 
>>
>>-- 
>>Dion Hollenbeck                        Email: hollen@megatek.com
>>Senior Software Engineer                      megatek!hollen@uunet.uu.net
>>Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California    ucsd!megatek.uucp!hollen
> 
> 
> 		Rob
> 
> --
> ---
> "We are sorry, the .sig you have reached is no longer in service"
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw,udel.bull
From: schwenk@rockhead.cis.udel.edu (Peter A. Schwenk)
Subject: FOR SALE:  1964 VW SUNROOF (factory) BEETLE
Organization: University of Delaware, Newark
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 16:54:08 GMT

Howdy, I have a 1964 Sunroof Bug for sale.  It is that off-white VW color
that they used back then.  It would make a great restoration project, as
it is in pretty good shape.  There is some minor rust repair work to do in
the normal places.  The pan is in great shape (no holes, including under
the battery).  The interior is in good shape.  The sunroof mechanism needs
some adjusting.  The engine is not currently in running order.  I used the 
car everyday up until last September when one of the studs that holds down
the rocker arm shaft on the 1-2 side pulled out.  I don't have the money
or the facilities to fix it right now, and I need the money, so I need to 
let it go.  I'm willing to part with it for US$500.  I am not in the pos-
ition to transport it to any buyer, so you would have to make your own 
arrangements.  She's a great car, just needs someone who loves VWs (and
has some money and time) to fix her up!  If interested, please email me @
schwenk@cis.udel.edu.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: tomh@wes.on.ca (Tom Haapanen)
Subject: Re: Name that Beetle!
Organization: Waterloo Engineering Software
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 05:50:43 GMT

pmr@daneel.rdt.monash.edu.au (Paul Richardson) writes:
> I'm interested in a better Beetle. I want McPherson strut front end for
> increased boot space, disc brakes in front, 4-bolt hubs so I can get decent
> wheels and tires, independant rear-end and preferably a flat windscreen
> (I don't like the look of the curvy one - it bulges.). 1500cc or larger 
> engine is essential - was an 1800 available in the Beetle? How about fuel
> injection/electronic ignition?

You want a '71-'72 1302S (that's a Super Beetle for you Americans, but it
also has the disc brakes that Paul covets).  It meets all the criteria,
except for the fuel injection.

If you want fuel injection, you'll either have to give up McPherson struts
and disc brakes (a late model 1300S), or accept a curved windshield (a
1303S).  Oh, and no 1800s to be found anywhere -- not stock ones, that is.

[ \tom haapanen  |  "only auto racing, bullfighting and mountain climbing are ]
[ tomh@wes.on.ca |   sports -- all others are only games" -- ernest hemingway ]
[ waterloo engineering software |     "to thine own self be true" -- polonius ]
From: sjk@emx.cc.utexas.edu (Phil Alvin)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: '57 Oval Parts Available
Date: 28 Jan 1993 08:17:05 -0600
Organization: Fred's Lounge
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: emx.cc.utexas.edu


Greetings,

I have a somewhat wrecked (got rear-ended and pushed into the car
in front) 1957 bug that I have decided not to rebuild.  The tranny
is cracked as is probably the engine block.  The front end is
visibly skewed.  The car had recently undergone a complete
restoration and all the rest of the parts are good.  So, if anyone
needs some parts, please E-mail or call and we'll see if we can
make a deal.  There are obvious things still good like the steering
wheel, seats (though the driver's seat broke), visors, speedometer,
glove-box, etc.  There may be a few good engine pieces left, but as
I have my eye on replacing it with 1 '56 ragtop, I may claim these
myself.  But if you really need something, contact me.


Cheers,
Scot Kleinman
sjk@emx.cc.utexas.edu
sjk@astro.as.utexas.edu
Austin TX 512 442 8604
-- 
I remain: 
sjk@emx.cc.utexas.edu
From: squiec@rs6212.ecs.rpi.edu (Craig L. Squier)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: re:gti no power
Date: 26 Jan 93 23:42:37 GMT
Reply-To: squiec@rpi.edu
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY.

In article <6367@rosie.NeXT.COM>, agaidos@pcbcad.next.com (Anton Gaidos) writes:
|> If its a 16V they (1.8) are short on the bottom end though not as weak as  
|> your statment. The 8V have more bottom end. But that was fixed with the  
|> 2.0 16V
  
  I hate to flame but:

  FALSE FALSE FALSE FALSE FALSE FALSE FALSE FALSE.......................=>

  The 1.8L 16V engine has the exact same amount of torque as the 1.8L 8V.
  The only difference being that the 16V has its torque peak about 5-600
   rpm higher than the 8V. This means that the engine has a higher powerband
  (needed because the 16V rev limit is higher than the 8V). The 16V is NOT
  short of anything, it is merely meant to be driven differently).
  When you have an 8V you launch it off the line from slightly above idle,
  as this is where your torque is zooming. To get the optimal performance out
  of a 16V, however, you must rev it higher in the band a drop the clutch...
  bringing all your torque and a bit more horsepower to the wheels...
  This higher torque peak is also why 16V engines only come with the 
  close-ratio gearbox, as they are meant for driving at higher rpm, rather
  than putt-putting around at near-idle.
  The reason why the 2.0 liter 16V feels is stronger is twofold:
  1) more overall horsepower and torque
  2) lower torque peak

 I hope this erradicates that nasty insult to the 16V.

 I found out how differently you must drive the 16V compared to the 8V when I
 put one in my Cabrio. It makes a BIG difference.....

                                                           -Craig
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang)
Subject: [W] Traction Control (Was Re: "94 Jetta GLX")
Organization: Brandeis University
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 15:07:45 GMT

In article <29975@oasys.dt.navy.mil> odell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Bernard O'Dell) writes:
>Supposedly, the new Jetta GLX will now be a 94 car-
...
>Twin air bags-4 wheel ABS-traction control-
			   ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Does anybody understand the new traction control mechanisms?  I've got
the Passat GLX brochures that describes it only as a low speed
traction control system.  Presumably this means that when in snow or
such it prevents wheel slippage (by applying brakes on slipping
wheel???).  Is this correct?  Does this mean that I will not be able
to exit tight parallel parking spaces by applying handbrake, turning
the steering wheel and spinning the front tires?  (This is sort of a
reverse "J" turn).

thanks,
andy
From: ti@bazooka.amb.org (Ti Kan)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Quantum=4000?
Date: 23 Jan 93 06:44:04 GMT
Reply-To: ti@bazooka.UUCP (Ti Kan)
Organization: AMB Research Labs, Sunnyvale, CA.

In article <25920093@hpcc01.corp.hp.com> zampicem@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Mike Zampiceni) writes:
>Presumably, you're asking why a VW Quantum equates to the number 4000. That's
>because the Quantum and Audi 4000 shared the same body shell and mechanicals.

The Quantum and the 4000 do share _some_ mechanicals, but they certainly
do not have the same unit body.  None of the body panels are
interchangeable.

-Ti
-- 
    ///  Ti Kan                vorsprung durch technik
   ///   AMB Research Laboratories, Sunnyvale, CA. USA
  ///    ti@amb.org
 //////  ...!{decwrl,synopsys,tandem,tsoft,ultra}!sgiblab!bazooka!ti
///      ...!{uunet,sun,apple,sco}!altos!bazooka!ti
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: kokerj@jec316.its.rpi.edu (James Matthew Kokernak)
Subject: Re: Weird behavior on 85 Jetta
Reply-To: kokerj@rpi.edu
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY.
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1993 18:44:15 GMT

In article <1993Jan23.215436.9823@cs.mun.ca>, michael9@nadine.cs.mun.ca (Michael Sullivan) writes:
|> finnegan@invader.NoSubdomain.NoDomain (Kenneth Finnegan) writes:
|> 
|> >In article <sgupta.727717772@pint.ecn.purdue.edu>, sgupta@pint.ecn.purdue.edu (Sameer Gupta) writes:
|> >|> 
|> >|> I noticed something very weird and want to see if someone can give me an
|> >|> explanation as to what happened.  The car is a straight 8 valve jetta with
|> >|> a 5 spd if it makes any difference.
|> >|> ..to get some gas, which also gave the engine a chance to
|> >|> cool down a bit.  I cannot figure out why the temp started to rise.  It had
|> >|> been steady for the past 5 hours and 45 minutes.  Could it be due to low gas ?
|> >|> Also, I heard a slight humming sound coming from the rear.  I am pretty sure
|> >|> that it was the fuel pump.  Is it going bad or is it normal to be able to hear
|> >|> it after it has been driven straight for about 6 hours ?
|> 
|> >It sounds as if your fuel transfer pump is going.  When mine was failing,
|> >Kenneth
|> 
|>   Sorry!!  It is perfectly normal for the water tempture to rise after heavy
|> driving and the stopping.  Think about it.  The only way the engine can cool
|> off is when the water pump is pumping water about the cooling system.  If
|> the car is stopped, the water just sits there, and gets hotter and hotter.

In volkswagens, all of the gauges relax when the car is shut off, so you would 
not see the increase when the car was not running. I believe that the original 
poster saw the temperature rise while he was driving. If indeed something has
gone wrong electrically, it is possible that you get incorrect readings on the
guages. I believe that most of them are voltage driven.

|>   I believe that the VW manual recommends that if you see this condition, you
|> should sit and idle the engine at higher then idle rpm.

This will heat your car up faster until the electric fan comes on.
 
|>   This has happened to me several times when doing a lot of highway driving,
|> and would pull off to grap a photo of something.  Sure enough, I could watch
|> the temp gauge rise.
|> 
|>   BTW, this is also way it is recommened that after really hot and heavy 
|> driving, you let the car cool down before turning it off.  Especially important
|> if you have turbo! 

I don't see how your car can cool down while still running unless the electric
fan has kicked on (in VW's). There are no vw turbos as far as I know. Not here
at least.

|> |uunet!garfield!michael9|'"Proof denies faith and without faith I am nothing,"|
|> |michael9@odie.cs.mun.ca| says God.  "But you have given us proof," says      |
|> |POB 756,St.John's,Nfld.| man, "Therefore you do not exist. QED." "Oh, my,"   |
|> |A1S 1G8                | says God, and disappears in a puff of logic.'       |
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: philg@bozo.net.com (Phil Geller)
Subject: Eurovan reviewed in Feb' 93 Consumers Reports
Keywords:  Eurovan
Organization: Network Equipment Technologies, Inc.
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 02:37:05 GMT

The latest Consumer Reports reviews four minivans, including the Eurovan.
Since there have been questions in this newsgroup about the Eurovan,
some of you may want to check CR out.  I don't want to steal their
thunder, but it was in the back of the pack behind the Quest/Villager
and the Voyager/Caravan.

-- 
Phil Geller				Email: philg@net.com
Network Equipment Technologies 		Phone: (415) 780-4363
800 Saginaw Drive 			Fax:   (415) 780-5001
Redwood City, CA 94063
From: bg@stein.u.washington.edu (Bill Whitson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: KG Engine Access Problem
Date: 27 Jan 1993 22:06:27 GMT
Organization: University of Washington
NNTP-Posting-Host: stein.u.washington.edu

I appear before you today as someone who has at one point or another, broken
every possible part on a Ghia.  There are three ways that I know of to get into
the engine compartment:

1.	Poke out the engine seal from around the sheet metal.
	Get a hanger or hook of some sort and reach into the engine
	compartment with it, trying to hook the cable that goes to the 
	latch.  If you can hook it, pull it to where you can grab it.
	Give it a good yank and your troubles are over.  This is how
	I got mine open.

2.	You can also do this through the rear left taillight assembly by
	removing the bulb unit and trying to hook the thing.  It gives you
	a better view, but I haven't tried it.

3.	You can drill out those bolts, but it would probably be better
	for you to just cut a section of sheet metal out from under the
	cable in the engine compartment.  It's real easy to destroy that
	latch.

The key to all of this of course, is mindless persistance.

Smile!

-Bill Whitson
bill@booster.u.washington.edu
From: amiller@almaden.ibm.com (Alex Miller)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Dasher
Date: 27 Jan 1993 19:14:17 -0600
Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu

Avoid it.  It shared some mechanical parts, including engines,
but it is not part of the Rabbit-Scirroco family.
The gas version had many quirks, like having to lift the engine
a few inches to change the spark plugs.

The Quantum was it's superior replacement (in 1982 or 1983.)

Alex
amiller@almaden.ibm.com
From: nils@jhunix.hcf.jhu.edu (Nils Gokemeijer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Boost 85 GTI performance?
Date: 24 Jan 1993 11:39:00 -0500
Organization: Homewood Academic Computing, Johns Hopkins University, Baltimore, Md, USA
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: jhunix.hcf.jhu.edu


Hi there,

I read in the FAQ that 85 GTI's performance can be boosted by cutting
wire #11? on the ECU.  Can somebody verify this? 
I looked it up in Bentley and it is a wire going from the ECU to the
altitude meter (Not used) nowhere else.

Thanks.

Oh, and also, can somebody send me the archived information about 
oil-pressure? file: "oil"

Thanks.

-Nils
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: tacchi@ccu.umanitoba.ca (Mark G. Tacchi)
Subject: Re: New Beetles - NOT!
Organization: University of Manitoba, Winnipeg, Canada
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 18:58:47 GMT

In <1jk5d5INN2fq@meaddata.meaddata.com> k2@meaddata.com (Kevin Kerr) writes:

>I thought that some of you VW netters might find this interesting.

>When I was at the Detroit Auto Show talking to the tech rep from VWoA I asked him about these "NEW" Beetles coming into the states from Mexico and Canada (from Mexico). HE said that VWoA is aware of a guy in San Diego, CA that goes to Mexico, buys a Beetle, registers it there, brings it into the states, goes through all the stuff required to bring it up to code, applies a new VIN, registers it in the states as a "USED" VW, then sells it. 

Yeah, I heard of some company that does something like this out east...somewhere in Ontario.  I'd consider buying one, if it were a convert.

>HE said that VWoA has NOTHING to do with the guy and does not recognize these  "CARS" as true VWs since they do not have an original VW VIN. HE also said that there has been no true VW Beetle assembley line in Mexico for five years. Its mostly shops just recycling what already exists.

I don't understand what he was saying.  When I was in Mexico a year ago, I went
to a dealership and talked with a customer (he could speak english) and his
beetle was a 1990.  He told me that they were still making them and I would
believe him because there were a lot of newer looking beetles there.  I even
took a picture of one that I believe is a 1991.

They are sort of a strange mix of years though.  Kind of a mix of 69-74.  The
picture that I took shows a red beetle on a cobble stone street in front
of a fine Mexican restaurant.  It is nicely washed and had the following:

o no wheel covers, but silver painted rims with about 22 vent holes equally
  spaced.  Lug nuts and hub cover are black.

o signals in front bumper.

o chrome headlight rings, side trim, hood trim, handles, door window trim, 
  and running board trim.  

o large tail lights.

o vent behind rear window.

o large bucket seats with adjustable headrest.

o non super.

Sorry, I can't remember what motor they had.


-Mark




-- 
Mark G. Tacchi                                    tacchi@next01.cc.umanitoba.ca
  Unix Support Group                                        (NeXT Mail Welcome)
  University of Manitoba Computer Services
 "My opinions are my own, and do not necessarily reflect those of my employer."
From: Ralph.C.Lindenfeld@dartmouth.edu (Ralph C. Lindenfeld)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: FOR SALE:  1964 VW SUNROOF (factory) BEETLE
Date: 25 Jan 93 14:20:40 GMT
 <C1Ep0A.Ey3@news.udel.edu>
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH
X-Posted-From: InterNews1.0b3@newshost.dartmouth.edu

In article <C1Ep0A.Ey3@news.udel.edu>
bew@brahms.udel.edu (Ben Williams) writes:

> 
> Would a '66 engine fit in this '64 bug?  How about a '69 engine?  Anyone know?

yes- the only possible hangup is if the flywheel/clutch on either the
66 or 69 engine had been replaced w/ a 12v unit, in which case you
could pull the 6v unit off the 64 engine 

Ralph Lindenfeld
1960 VW Panelvan
From: zampicem@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Mike Zampiceni)
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 18:38:16 GMT
Subject: Re: '67 912 questions
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw

I would say that $4500 is a bargain if the car isn't a rust bucket. The
new paint could be hiding rust problems. Aside from cosmetic rust, structural
rust should be the primary consideration if the cosmetic kind doesn't bother 
you. As you're probably aware, the most critical area for structural rust
damage is where the front suspension is connected to the pan.

As far as parts are concerned, I wouldn't anticipate any problems getting 
mechanical parts. If you do run into a snag, you can always scour something
up through the Porsche club. Body parts might be more difficult to obtain
at this point, however. I assume that the car is complete in this regard,
however.

The most sought after 912 is the '69 model, which is the last year other
than the 912E of '76. I would avoid a '68 because it had a smog pump and 
those asthetically questionable side marker reflectors. The '69 had some
refinements and a slightly longer wheelbase along with mildly flared rear
fenders. I would think that '67 would also be a good year since the factory
would have been able to work out any bugs (not the VW kind) associated with
the first year or two of production.

Pardon, but your 914 did truly have a VW engine -- a Type IV transporter
engine to be exact, which was also used in the 411/412 series. The 2 liter 
version of the engine powers the '76 912E, one of which I own.
From: wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: [A] bus wiper motor blowing fuses
Date: 28 Jan 1993 16:21:55 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: thor.ins.cwru.edu


Hey now, volks!
The bus in question is a '71 (not mine) and is blowing fuses left and right.
When the wipers are switched on, they start to move (slowly) and then the
fuse blows.  Seems to me kind of like something is blocking its motion so
the motor strains, draws too much current and *FOOSH* no more fuse.  Any
other guesses?

Bill
-- 
William Claspy		Case Western Reserve University
wpc@po.cwru.edu
From: milo@dorm.rutgers.edu (Jim  mielo)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re recurved distributor
Date: 23 Jan 93 18:08:00 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.vw
Organization: rutgers university



    I'm looking for a simple bolt on item to increase my cars performance.
I was wondering if any one has purchased/used a recurved distributor and
what their results were. If you can please include the name of the
manufacturer and the place you bought it and any impressions so I can get
an idea of which one to go with and where to get it.
    I have a 90 GTi 8v but any info from you air cooled guys would also be
helpful.

   Any other bolt on things would also be helpful. I presently have a
leistritz exhaust K&N air filter and  splitfire plug.

James Mielo
Rutgers College of Pharmacy '94
milo@dorm.rutgers.edu
 1990 GTi 8v

 Sub Umbra Petri
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Re: [A]:Floods and VWs...some Questions....
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1993 00:01:29 GMT

In article <1993Jan21.174301.24904@novell.com>, dheckman@novell.com (Diane Heckman) writes:
|> Just a word of warning for you VDub owners out there:
|> 
|> When it's been really rainy and wet, don't use your emergency
|> brake when the car is parked.  Apparently, the wetness can 
|> cause the rear brakes to stick in place to the brake drums.
|> Makes driving impossible.
|> 
|> If this happens to you, adjust the brakes all the way out (away
|> from the drums), and whack the inside of the wheel with a hammer
|> in hopes of freeing them up.  They open up the wheels, and see
|> if the brakes have freed.  Don't forget to adjust the brakes 
|> back near the drums when you're all done.....
|> 
|> Or, just get it towed to the local VW place and pay $37 like I did.  :-)
|> 
|> The wetness explanation was from the VW place.  And, I was trying
|> to blame that earthquake.

IMHO the only thing wet here is their explanation of the problem.
In all my 10 years of driving Bugs, Ghia's, and Type 3's in the wet
Indiana/Michigan climate I have never encountered this problem and
I always set the handbrake (I never leave the car in gear, except
on really steep inclines).  

The only way I could see this being related to wetness, is if the
brakes were originally adjusted too tight to begin with and the
added moisture caused enough drag to cause them to overheat and
drag even more.  With proper brake shoe clearance, this should
not happen.  By any chance, was this the same garage that adjusted
your brakes?  :-(

Mark