HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: wagner@mala.bc.ca
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Was the New Yankee Workshop cancelled?
Date: 11 Jan 93 17:59:48 -0700
Organization: Malaspina College

In article <Jan.11.12.32.26.1993.21903@cadenza.rutgers.edu>, masticol@cadenza.rutgers.edu (Steve Masticola) writes:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I used to love the New Yankee Workshop on PBS, but it seems to have
> been taken off the air locally (the New York and New Jersey PBS
> stations don't have it anymore.) I saw it on the Philadelphia PBS
> station when I was visiting my parents, but it seemed to be old shows.
> Can someone tell me if the show was cancelled?
> 
> Thanks,
> - Steve "Norm Abram Rules!" masticol@cs.rutgers.edu.
> 
> P.S. Just for a bit of balance, I got a chuckle out of the episode
> where he showed "Yankee thrift" by making a coffee table out of pallet
> wood. I figure it must have cost him at least 20 hours and a set of
> planer blades; he couldn't have sold the table for less than about a
> thousand bucks and expected to make a decent profit :-)

Still see him on satellite every Saturday.  That usually means he's on PBS.
What I miss is "The Woodsmith".  I'm still making his wooden ties for christmas
(wearable, not railway).

73, Tom

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: rdc@world.std.com (Ralph D Clifford)
Subject: Re: Stile and rail bits for routers
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 18:06:25 GMT

In article <1993Jan6.080636.5373@netcom.com> micki@netcom.com (Michelle Stone)
writes:

>I have seen stile and rail bits advertised for routers
>in FW.  Do these things do the job for cabinet
>work?  I realize that the raised panel bit won't 
>work well unless I could slow my router down.  I suppose
>that I will do the panels on the table saw.  I sure
>would like to do something nice to the stiles and rails
>and these bit sets might be the ticket.

     I know one other option for doing stiles and rails is a molding head
cutter on a table saw.  I would be very interested in the nets view on the
advantages and disadvantages of each.



-- 
Ralph Clifford
rdc@world.std.com (Internet)

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: hari@sje.mentor.com (Hari @ PCB x5558)
Subject: Grinder/Sander
Originator: hari@hppcb32
Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1993 00:30:32 GMT
Organization: Mentor Graphics 
Keywords: Grinder, Disc sander
Followup-To: 


I am planning to buy a grinder/sander for my woodworking needs.
The basic use will be to make chair seats out of walnut. I want 
to be able to remove enough wood without having to use a gouge 
or chisel etc. Here are some of the questions I have.

 1. What size grinder/sander should I be buying (4", 4.5", 5", 7" etc.) ?

 2. What are the pros & cons of adhesive backed sanding papers ?
    (ease of use, price etc.). 

 3. Which brands & models will you recomend ? My budget is under $100.

 4. What brands should I stay away from ?

 
 thanks for your help in advance,

 - hari 




Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 8 Jan 1993 08:53:43 EDT
From:         Carty <CELLIS@BROCKVMA.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Norm's New Season
              7 Jan 1993 21:55:01 GMT from <STEVE.BUSSELL@OFFICE.WANG.COM>

On Thu, 7 Jan 1993 21:55:01 GMT \Steve Bussell\ said:
>For anyone in the Boston area who is interested, the fifth season of New
>Yankee Workshop is scheduled to start.  It will start on Sunday, January
>17th at 7:00 pm on WGBH (channel 2).  I believe the re-broadcast schedule is
 
verrrrrry interesting... (I can't type it the way Artie Johnson said it...
On WXXI (here in Rochester, NY the last couple of weeks have been things
I've never seen before - a wall hat and umbrella hanger - and a turned post
maple bed with pine headboard and footboard - wonder if we are getting it
earlier?
Tomorrow will be a Dove Cote - bet our local squirrels would love it!

***********************************************************************
Carlton Ellis                  *   BITNET CELLIS@BROCKVMA
Administrative Computing       *
State University of New York   *
College at Brockport           *
***********************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: larryk@sr.hp.com (Larry Kubo)
Subject: Norm's New Season
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 23:45:52 GMT
Organization: HP Sonoma County (SRSD/MWTD/MID)
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.9 PL6]


You probably get the best buy squiblet flurbigator from Grizzley. It has a
cast iron flywheel, but I had to take it off and reworks its mandrel 4 times.
But it works great now. I noticed while working on it that the casting
has the letters ateld near the mandrel mount.
Norm will be really jealous now. I have a $47 squiblet flurbigator!
From: steveo@custard.think.com (stephen anthony)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Resawing with Delta 16 inch bandsaw
Date: 6 Jan 93 13:44:26
Organization: Thinking Machines Corporation, Cambridge MA, USA
	<1993Jan5.193033.10080@cbfsb.cb.att.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: custard.think.com
In-reply-to: millios@cbnewsf.cb.att.com's message of 5 Jan 93 19:30:33 GMT

In article <1993Jan5.193033.10080@cbfsb.cb.att.com> millios@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (william.l.millios) writes:

   I seem to remember reading somewhere that somebody recommended
   a 1/4 inch bimetal blade for all bandsawing activities; this person
   visited some shop (how's this for precision of memory) and saw
   the bimetal blade being used for everything from curves to 
   resawing, and was sold on the idea.  

   The bimetal construction apparently lends some kind of attribute
   not normally present in standard blades.

   Note that I do not have a bandsaw nor a bimetal blade, just
   a memory like a packrat.

   Bill

Speaking of memories like packrats (mine :-(), in last week's This Old
House, (Where Steve went out to the NYW to help Norm make the doddads for
the house) the blade on the bandsaw must have been about 3" wide! It was
just a background shot, but I'd never seen Norm use a blade that size (nor
did he on TOH). What would such a blade be good for? Resawing?
--
Steve Anthony                     |  "Ain't nobody gettin' outta here |
Software Engineer              	  |   with out singin' the blues"     |
(617) 234-4000                    |                                   |
steveo@think.com                  |  - Albert "The Iceman" Collins    |
From: lombardo@taurus.cs.nps.navy.mil
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Proportional Dividers
Date: 5 Jan 93 16:50:10 GMT
Organization: Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey CA

Hi,
  I have a set of proportional dividers with two scales on one side
and nothing on the other.  The name/model is: Teledyne Post 38JC-050.
One of the scales is for lines and it works as expected.  The other scale
says "Circles" with values from 6 - 20.  There is a correlation between the
scales of 2*PI.  That is, across from 2 on the lines scale is 12.5 on the
circles scale (2*2*PI = 12.57). This holds across the entire scale - I've
checked.  My question is what is the circles scale for?  Is it just a built
in circumference based on the value of one of the the radii?

  Just curious.


Thanks in advance,
Chuck

 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Charles P. Lombardo			|           lombardo@cs.nps.navy.mil |
| Computer Science Department		|		 voice: 408-646-2102 |
| Naval Postgraduate School		|		 fax:   408-646-2814 |
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: frank_concannon@re.chb.ouhsc.edu (Frank Concannon)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: 2nd-hd. bandsaw
Date: 12 Jan 93 22:50:56 GMT
Followup-To: rec.woodworking
Organization: OUHSC
Originator: news@essex.ecn.uoknor.edu

Anyone out there, know of, or have a used a bandsaw for sale. I need
something fairly robust. Ex-Industrial would be nice but it must also be
practical.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jon@unislc.uucp (Jon Bork)
Subject: Re: Bunk Bed Plans
Reply-To: jon@unislc.UUCP (Jon Bork,PLS2,5508,,)
Organization: Unisys, Salt Lake City
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 15:35:58 GMT

In article <1993Jan7.140315.8217@cbfsb.cb.att.com> mvrjl@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (robert.j.lansing) writes:
>I am interested in getting plans to build a set of bunk
>beds.  Preferably, a set that could be used for bunks or
>as two individual twin beds, and storage underneath.  I have   
>ordered a back issue of Woodsmith that features bunk bed
>plans, but am leery that these may be a little beyond my
>skill level and time constraints.  In addition to sources
>for plans, I'd also appreciate any tips and knowledge
>sharing with regard to this topic.
>
>Thank you.
While I haven't build the bunk bed plans from Woodsmith,
I have built 5 or 6 other projects. When I started I
literally had never screwed two pieces of wood together.

If you read through the project first, then carefully
follow the instructions, I think you'll find that 
Woodsmith projects are accessable to almost
anyone who can carefully follow instructions. 

The bunk beds would be a good project since they
are straightforward and involve lots of pieces that 
are the same. (As opposed to a large project with many
unique parts.)

We've looked at bunk beds at furniture stores and they add
under the bed storage by making a 2 or 3 drawer unit that 
slides between the legs of the bed and just rests on the 
floor (ie: not connected to the bed at all).

If you can tackle the beds, then you may be ready to
trot down to the store, measure up the storage units,
draw some plans that fit your beds and tackle it.
We've been looking at large bed headboards and
pedestals, which will be by far the largest 
project my wife and I have ever taken on.

Once you start building your own furniture, you
really see how shoddy lots of store bought furniture 
is. However, I get lots of great ideas there.

I've come around to the approach that if I can
get my mind around how to safely tackle a project,
the worst that can happen is I add some expensive
wood to my scrap pile. If I take my time, it doesn't
happen all that often. So try it!

-- 

Jon Bork
Phone: (801) 594-5508	Fax: (801) 594-6708	OFIS:	JEB1/CORP
internet: jon@unislc.slc.unisys.com  -or- unislc!jon
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: daved@convex.com (David Dorfman)
Subject: Re: WARNING (response to...)
Organization: CONVEX Computer Corporation, Richardson, Tx., USA
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 19:51:11 GMT
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by a user at CONVEX Computer
              Corp. The opinions expressed are those of the user and
              not necessarily those of CONVEX.

I Guess I was lucky, all my early potential disasters involved flying wood
from kickbacks. Nothing was ever hit.

This discussion of accidents makes me think of how my two hobbies are tied
together.

Both woodworking and motorcycling require constant attention and care or
the results can be disasterous, they both require attention to all the
possible scenarios which may result in an injury, good safety equipment,
and a concious decision to perform every operation in a safe manner.

And I guess both require some painful learning experience to really 
teach you these things.

Happy butchering to all
Dave Dorfman
From: thompson@woolly.Eng.Sun.COM (Keith B. Thompson - SMCC)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Water stained pine
Date: 5 Jan 93 17:22:14 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems - Chelmsford MA
NNTP-Posting-Host: woolly.east.sun.com

i have a window frame, made out of pine, which has
a great deal of water staining. i have fixed the
source of the water and would like to paint the
frame with, eventualy, a latex paint. i have done
this before, put a couple of coats of primer on
then the finish coat but the stain, over time,
works it's way through... any suggestions, short
of replacing the frame!

kbt
From: Andrew.Cohill@vtssi.vt.edu (Andrew Michael Cohill)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Transferring chip carving designs to wood
Date: 7 Jan 93 15:11:16 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Fire in the Mountain
X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1.1d13
X-XXMessage-ID: <A771B3485D02047C@thea.cc.vt.edu>
X-XXDate: Thu, 7 Jan 93 10:15:36 GMT

The problem with that technique is that you may end up with some stuff 
stuck to the wood that you don't really want, although I suppose you are 
assuming you are going to cut away all the lines.

Pounce wheels are a low-tech, chemical free way of transferring designs 
to wood.  Just lay your design (on paper) down on the wood, and trace it 
with a pounce wheel.  It's quite fast, even for complicated designs.

When done, rub a little chalk over the surface of the wood (blue or 
white, depending on wood color).  The holes pick up the chalk, and you 
have an outline of your design.

Andrew
From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 21:13:51 GMT
Subject: Re: WARNING (response to...)
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

Okay,

My uncle had been a carpenter and cabinetmaker for 30 years when he chopped
half of two fingers off with his radial-arm saw.   Just wasn't paying
attention I guess.
From: corwin@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (carl.w.smedberg)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Jointers, Which one to buy?
Summary: more jointer inquiries
Date: 11 Jan 93 16:20:54 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T

In article <2430012@hpgrla.gr.hp.com>, peterd@hpgrla.gr.hp.com (Peter Davidoff) writes:
> 
> 
> I've been following this thread with interest... I intend to
> purchase a 6" jointer soon.

Me too!

> I started calling around for the Jet.

I'm not that impressed with the Jet. Wood working unlimited had them
on sale prior to x-mas for about $425.

> 
> Given the talk on this rec. I'm not sure I'm interested in the 
> Delta (or the Artisan) with the extruded fence.

I've been following the discussion on this subject but I didn't
see any comments about the Delta 6" consumer jointer. If you have
one then tell me what you think about it. I'll summerize and
post the comments I receive. I'm leading toward the delta because
I'm very happy with my planer and miter box saw. Right now I can 
pick up this model for 349 + tax. 

> 
> I'm not sure about the Ryobi... seems good, but... but I don't know.
> Guess, like many have said in this thread, it's between the Ryobi and
> the Jet.

Everyone says the Ryobi is great because of its variable speed but
the bed is too short for me. The FWW review of the Ryobi stated
that you can purchase extensions for the bed. Does anyone have
any experience with these? I can't make up my mind.......
If I remember right, the ryobi is an aluminum bed and fence, where
the delta is just an aluminum fence.


Carl Smedberg
att!ihlpm!corwin
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Fine woodworking wants in....
Date: 12 Jan 93 21:06:43 GMT
Organization: LLNL

In article <93010.17275334AEJ7D@CMUVM.BITNET>, 34AEJ7D@CMUVM.BITNET writes:
> 
> In article <lks96tINNkgc@exodus.Eng.Sun.COM>, coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM (Chip
> Coffin) says:
> >
> >In my product ventures, I have been talking with fine woodworking
> >about stuff, and RWW came up.
> >...
> >Could someone tell me how you can become a subscriber with just
> >a phone line?
> 
> Quick, cheap and less reliable method:  Get an account on any Public
> Access BBS, such as the various Freenets, that offers Internet and
> Usenet/Netnews services.

These work pretty well, although you are down from time to time.  Certainly,
for the bandwidth of this group access every one or two days is sufficient.

> 
> More costly, more reliable method:  Get an account on a commercial
> service, such as Delphi, Compu$erve, etc., that offers Internet
> and Usenet/Netnews services.
> 

I tried Compu$erve before trying a Freenet and all I got from net services
when I wanted to access Usenet was disinterest.  I resigned immediately,
since I was less impressed with Compu$erve's discussion groups than I was
with RWW.

BTW, it's about time we got one or more of the major mags on this group.
Congrats and keep FWW interested.  I'd love to be able to e-mail and
post directly to those guys, both to thank them for interesting articles and
to suggest new topics.  I'm a subscriber, of course.

G.
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Ryobi & Fein Detail Sanders
Date: 5 Jan 93 17:47:07 GMT
Organization: LLNL

In article <1993Jan4.225745.1148@intellistor.com>, grun@intellistor.com (Paul Grun) writes:
> 
> In <1993Jan2.010255.1@acad2.alaska.edu> asket@acad2.alaska.edu writes:
> Gary, is that true?
> I've never seen the Fein in person, so can't personally comment on its
> construction. 
> 
I guess I'm really going to have to do some serious sanding this weekend.
I powered it up and did some samples but nothing like a serious session.
It's solid and fairly massive, so the vibration and noise didn't seem too
bad, but nothing substitutes for an hour of use.  I'll get back to you
next week and report on how much of a buzz I got and how noisy it is
over long usage.
G.
From: kassover@rumsey.crd.ge.com (David Kassover)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: WARNING
Date: 7 Jan 93 16:40:40 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: nope

In article <=792vt@rpi.edu> ameres@manhattan.cat.rpi.edu (Eric Ameres) writes:
>
>Sounds like a great idea.  But, having had a mother who relished the
>"you're gonna put an eye out" phrase, this sounds to me like a job for
>an unsharpened pencil.  I like my projectiles blunt(er), thank you!
>They're also longer that way.  Now, how do I avoid the temptation of
>sharpening the push-pencil once I've misplaced my umpteenth pencil in
>the last 5 minutes...?

You shop around the specialty stores that cater to gag gifts, and
get a bunch of those pencils that have erasers on both ends.

Or buy a supply of push-on extension erasers, and a few dowels of
the appropriate diameter...

-- 
David Kassover             "Proper technique helps protect you against
uupsi!khazad!kassover	          sharp weapons and dull judges."
kassover@aule-tek.com                   F. Collins
kassover@ra.crd.ge.com
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: WARNING (response to...)
Date: 5 Jan 93 21:20:34 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

In article <4834@moscom.com> de@moscom.com (David Esan) writes:
 [another tale of power-tool meets flesh]

I started learning woodworking at my Dad's side when I was about 10, and
he always repeated (and still does) "that blade don't know wood from your
finger".  Yet in all that time, I cannot remember *ever* injuring myself
with a power tool.

Hand tools are another story altogether!  I have a fair share of scars, mostly
on my hands, from: screwdriver gouges, knife slips, and (the latest) chisel
slips.  Not to mention the thousands of splinters. 

What's my point?  I guess, though I'm sure it's obvious to most everyone,
that power tools aren't the only dogs that bite!  Be careful with those
handtools too.

And thank heavens hammer's heads are not sharp, or I'd be shy a few
dozen thumb tips by now...

Dave
-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
"I look back with some satisfaction on what an idiot I was when I was 25,
 but when I do that, I'm assuming I'm no longer an idiot." - Andy Rooney
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-Delivery-Notice:  SMTP MAIL FROM does not correspond to sender.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 8 Jan 1993 09:15:36 EST
From:         Bill Alexander <ALEX@NKI.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Grizzly jointer pickup
              7 Jan 1993 20:39:46 GMT from <gary_preckshot@LCCMAIL.OCF.LLNL.GOV>

Thanks for the advice, Gary.
- Bill
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mvrjl@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (robert.j.lansing)
Subject: Bunk Bed Plans
Organization: AT&T
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 14:03:15 GMT

I am interested in getting plans to build a set of bunk
beds.  Preferably, a set that could be used for bunks or
as two individual twin beds, and storage underneath.  I have   
ordered a back issue of Woodsmith that features bunk bed
plans, but am leery that these may be a little beyond my
skill level and time constraints.  In addition to sources
for plans, I'd also appreciate any tips and knowledge
sharing with regard to this topic.

Thank you.

-Bob Lansing
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: M21605@mwvm.mitre.org
Subject: Re: Treadle lathe
Organization: The MITRE Corporation, McLean VA 22102
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 13:48:50 GMT

In article <1992Dec30.220659.4695@nntpd.lkg.dec.com>
taylor@dominy.enet.dec.com (Bruce J. Taylor) writes:
 
>
>
>In article <1h8pneINN5cs@msuinfo.cl.msu.edu>, Eric Kasten writes...
>>I was wondering if anyone had any opinion on a treadle
>>lathes?  It's been a few years since I last used a lathe,
>>and I'm more accustomed to the motorized variety.  Lately
>>I've been contemplating constructing a treadle lathe -
 
>1. It's exhausting work. Figure that a modern lathe with ball-bearing
>   spindles needs a minimum 1/3-hp motor to be useful. Can you deliver
>   1/3 horse with one leg for long periods? Also, the flywheel bearings
>   are going to eat into the energy, and so will the headstock, if you
>   use the standard bushing or pillow block techniques. This is why the
>   old-timers had apprentices - to turn the "great wheel" that drove
>   the headstock.
>
>2. It takes a lot of coordination. Since you've done some turning, you
>   know about the "woodturner's lean" - tool handle braced on hip, blade
>   supported on tool rest, now lean your whole body to move the tip.
>   Well, you can't do this if you're pumping the treadle with one leg,
>   so you have to use just your hands for tool control. You lose a
>   lot of control that way.
>
>3. Inconsistent speed. No matter how careful you are, and how heavy your
>   flywheel (the lathe I used had a 3' steel wheel - I guess about 120lbs),
>   the work still spins faster on your power stroke. This takes a lot of
>   getting used to. Also, you can break an ankle if you lose the rythm of
>   the treadle.
>
Well put Bruce.  You forgot to mention though that turning with a quality
treadle lathe is a hell of a lot more fun!
 
 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: kroth@sunshine.Kodak.COM (David Kroth)
Subject: Re: WARNING
Organization: Eastman Kodak Co., Rochester, NY
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 93 16:44:25 GMT


When cutting small pieces ( < 6 inches or so ) I use a pencil
as a push stick.  The eraser holds the wood well and leaves
no marks.  I got the idea from a professor at the School for
American Craftsman at RIT.  Actually, he was using an awl
as a push stick.  But that leaves a prick mark in the wood.
Further, if it contacts the blade, it can cause damage there
as well.  With the pencil approach, there are no marks and
if it contacts the blade, the pencil just dissapears in a
puff of sawdust.  Best part is, the fingers are undamaged.

Dave Kroth
kroth@acadia.kodak.com


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: asket@acad2.alaska.edu
Subject: Mail Order Wood (ARGH!)
Organization: University of Alaska
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 00:37:52 GMT

Remember my order for exotic wood from Berea Hardwoods in Ohio?  
They cashed my check in early November, and here it is '93 and I
still haven't received it.  Every time I call, it's coming, it's coming...
The Anchorage Fur Rendezvous Woodworking Show is next month, and there's
no way now that I'll finish my entry in time.
  
Before I waste another $100, has anyone had any experience with M.L. Condon
in New York?  At least in NY I can ask my father to go bang on thier shop
doors if they don't send my order.  
        Thanks in advance....Karl Thoennes
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking