HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: robert@cpvax.cpses.tu.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Removing wallpaper
Date: 29 Sep 92 10:26:05 CDT
Organization: Texas Utilities, Glen Rose TX 

In article <35298@cbmvax.commodore.com>, brian@cbmvax.commodore.com (Brian Fennimore) writes:
>
> It has pretty heavy textured wallpaper. What are your experiences with
> removing wallpaper? Is a steamer the way to go? Solvents? What should I
> refrain from doing when removing the wallpaper?
> 

I would recommend you go for the steamer.  I spent half a day scraping
paper off using hot water and the going was soooooo slow and messy, I
decided to rent a steamer for about $30.  In two hours, I had the rest
of that room and another finished.

I'll start with the steamer the next time!
-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Robert Eden    817-897-0491                                 Glen Rose, TX
Comanche Peak Steam Electric Station            robert@cpvax.cpses.tu.com
               ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ politicese for a nuke plant
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: davek@sets-1 (Dave Kennedy)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Hair-line Cracks in Furnace...
Date: 29 Sep 92 14:15:21 GMT
Organization: Mitel. Kanata (Ontario). Canada.
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL3


Let me try this again..
I just had my oil furnace cleaned, and the repairman indicated 
that there is some hair-line cracks in the heat exchanger. 

The furnace is about 35 years old, and made by Beach. 

What are my options? What happens if I don't replace it? Am I running
the risk of burning down the house, am I letting toxic fumes into the
house, or does it just operate less efficiently? Can I get it welded? 

We were planning to replace the furnace next year, and I'd like to get
one more year out of it before we replace it. A new oil furnace is 
about $1800 installed around here (no gas in the area). 

Thanking you in advance ...


-- 
Dave Kennedy
Mitel Corp.
davek@Software.Mitel.COM
My opinions are my own....
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: mike@fuego.viewlogic.com (Mike Ethier)
Subject: Re: Chipper/Shreader recommendations sought
Originator: mike@fuego
Organization: Viewlogic Systems, Inc.
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 20:22:43 GMT




>Mike, I'm interested in a chipper/shredder. I have fourteen
>large trees that I trim each winter. What type of cost
>justification did you go through in deciding to buy. Will
>it ever pay for itself?
>
>Thanks, Calvin


Well, for me, I planned on doing some heavy-duty chipping. I
have about 5 acres of heavily wooded land. I wanted a strong,
reliable machine that could go the distance. I burn a lot of
wood for heat in the winter, so I figured over a long period
of time 5 or 10 years, it would be worth it. I feel the
higher priced machine is worth it. If you plan on just chipping
some loose branches, leaves, and using it once in a while, the
less expensive machines are probably more cost effective.
It depends on what you plan to do with it, and how much you are
going to use it. At one time, we cut down about 30 to 40 trees
in two days. The area looked like a tornado hit. Trees all over
the place. A mess. But, it is all cleaned up now, it looks great,
and we used our Kemp chipper to do it. I tried burning the stuff,
but burning it dangerous, environmentally negative, you smell like
a burnt piece of wood when your done, I think I can chip more
and faster than burning, and I get to use the wood chips after for
whatever I what. I had some neighbors come over and talk to me
about it, but when I told them is was $2000, they said no way.
It seems its one of those items that people would love to have, but
don't want to spend the $$ on.

                            -Mike
From: rdc00a@nmrdc1.nmrdc.nnmc.navy.mil (Kelly Pedersen)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Bath Tub
Date: 5 Oct 92 12:54:34 GMT
Organization: Naval Medical R&D Command

I have a friend who lives in an old house with an old cast iron
bathtub.  Its original enamel finish is wearing thin in places
and he is wondering if there is any way it can be refinished. 
Any comments?  Thanks,  Kelly.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: SUMMARY: siding options
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 92 15:31:08 GMT

In article <1992Sep30.144624.13164@meteor.wisc.edu> foley@meteor.wisc.edu writes:

>One final question....What if I am sick of peeling paint and I want to STAIN
>(with an opaque stain) the clapboards instead?  Stain doesn't peel and it
>(to my understanding) protects the wood pretty well too.  Any comments or
>suggestions?

This is quite true, however the two labels I've looked at on outdoor
stain/wood protection sytems both recommended recoating every few years.
These were both designed for use on decks, however. There may be others.

Before you apply a stain, you'll have to remove all the paint. Peeling
or not, I think you'll have difficulty getting it all.

My only experience has been to stain modern panel type siding (the 4x8
panels that imitate vertical lapped boards). It looked very nice and
held up well with no recoats.

patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | If you take a dog which is starving and feed him
George Patterson -  | and make him prosperous, that dog will not bite
                    | you. This is the primary difference between a dog
                    | and a man.             Samuel Clemens
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Xref: sparky misc.consumers.house:13132 uiuc.general:402
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,uiuc.general
Subject: Re: This Old House
Date: 5 Oct 92 20:46:05 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

Pete Brokaw writes:
>In article <BvI5Av.Mrx@news.cso.uiuc.edu>, tmkk@uiuc.edu (Khan) writes:
>|> Speaking of This Old House, when is the new season going to start?
>|> 
>|> Or has it already begun airing, and our local PBS station is simply
>|> retarding for some unknown reason?
>|> 
>
>Locally, the new season starts one week from tonight (october 9).  TV
>Guide says the first project is working on a house built in 1958 (not
>1858, but 1958).  I wonder if they'll ever show the final results of the 
>flat in London from the end of last season.
>
>Pete

Locally for me (NY Met. area), it began Oct 3 on NJN.  Started off revisiting
the house by the church from last season (can't remember the name of it
now).  The new project is a 50's era ranch in desperate need of expansion.
Looks like they'll be going up and out with the addition.

Now, is there a NYW new season?

Dave
-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
The heart and the mind on a parallel course, never the two shall meet.
						-E. Saliers
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Wood Floor Puzzlers
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 92 13:28:09 GMT

In article <1933@msa3b.UUCP> kevin@msa3b.UUCP (Kevin P. Kleinfelter) writes:
>I'm planning to attempt a do-it-myself hardwood floor installation. I'll
>be replacing wall-to-wall carpet in my split-level living room.
>
>There are 3 areas where I anticipate difficulties:
>
>   1. I have a stone fireplace hearth which  extends to the subfloor.
>      The only thing I can think of here is to use a jigsaw to cut
>      the floor to fit as well as possible, and fill the crack with
>      mortar to match.

This is done with decks sometimes. You might prefer some type of caulk
to fill the crack. My mother's house has a marble hearth and the builder
bordered it with sort of a frame made out of flooring material. Then the
other boards were cut to butt up against that. I suppose yours is too
irregular in shape for this?

>   2. I have stairs which rise to meet the floor. I plan to put a
>      wide strip of wood with one edge rounded to form a border and
>      provide the overhang for the top step. (Alternatively, I could
>      just take the hardwood flooring right up to the edge, and then
>      use half-round moulding to form the overhang for the top step.)

Your first idea is the way to go. You will be able to find pieces of
flooring designed expressly for this purpose. They're about 5" wide and
have a groove to fit the other flooring. I don't believe a strip of
half-round would stay up very long, but they make excellent glues these
days.

>   3. I have to meet a linoleum floor at one edge. The hardwood floor
>      will be slightly taller than the linoleum.  Should I use
>      quarter round to meet the linoleum?  I'm familiar with metal
>      strips which one uses to end carpet at linoleum, is there something
>      similar for hardwood floors?

Yes. Home Depot (among others) sells them. They come in brass and chrome
finish. The ones I've seen will handle about 1/8" drop. They look sort of
like this.

             __________
            /_____     \
                  |_____\

>What is a DIY guide to hardwood floors? None of my DIY books answer
>the above questions.

I believe I saw one by Ortho at Home Depot last week, but I'm not
sure. Good luck.

patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | If you have a tank which can move and communicate,
George Patterson -  |   but which cannot shoot, essentially what you have
                    |   is a sixty-five ton portable radio.
                    |                Fort Bragg School of Armour
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: humayun@njmsa.umdnj.edu (Zafri Humayun)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Old House Insulation
Summary: Old House Insulation
Keywords: consumers
Date: 2 Oct 92 21:18:30 GMT
Distribution: misc

WPC.






Re: Insulation Choices for an Old House

Hi there!  We just bought a beautiful old house, and are trying to
The main house has a forced)air heating system (oil furnace).

It would seem that blown)in insulation is (a) unhealthy (some

Questions
1. Is blown)in insulation worth it? 
2. What kind of material is safe and effective?
3. How much of the stuff do I need (R)??)?
4. Anything special to look out for when hiring someone to do it?
5. Is there a realistic alternative to blown)in insulation?

Any info would be appreciated.  Thanks in advance!

Z. Humayun

Please respond directly to: humayun@umdnj.edu

The University of Medicine and Dentistry of New Jersey (USA)
Organization: SAS Institute Inc.
Date: Tuesday, 29 Sep 1992 17:53:58 EDT
From: <SASSFT4@vm.sas.com>
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject:    Phone number for PRACTICAL HOMEOWNER magazine

Does anyone have the phone number or address for PRACTICAL HOMEOWNER
magazine?  They don't seem to have an 800 number listed (under PH), and
the last address I have is Boulder, CO, and there isn't a number
listed for them there.

Thanks in advance.  (email or post)
* --------------------------------------------------------------------
Sandy Tuning (sassft4@vm.sas.com)
SAS Institute, Inc.    Cary, NC   27513
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Styrofoam? Paper? Or Wood?
Date: 6 Oct 92 11:31:58 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <1992Oct5.155538.17938@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie) writes:
|In article <1992Oct3.152719.12112@engage.pko.dec.com> moroney@ramblr.enet.dec.com writes:

|>The foil isn't a vapor barrier, its purpose is to reflect radiant heat.  Normal
|>insulation stops conductive heat, but does little or nothing to stop radiant
|>heat.  A vapor barrier on the outside insulation would be a bad thing since
|>it would tend to trap water vapor and lead to rot.

|You learn something new every day. The stuff must not be real foil then?
|A solid foil will serve as a vapor barrier whether you like it or not.
|Any idea what it's made of?

Some of the stuff I've seen is simply perforated.

|>As to "health hazard vapors" I think you're thinking of UFFI foam insulation
|>which is outlawed for new construction.

|Nope, I was just repeating what I heard. Actually what I was thinking of
|was some insulation board matching this description which I saw at Home
|Depot a few weeks ago. There's a warning printed on the board that 1/2"
|sheet rock or thicker must be used to cover this stuff if it's used in
|the house interior. I had assumed that this was because of the outgassing
|I'd heard about, but it could be for fire protection, I suppose.

Fire protection.  Building code requires a wall covering that has
a certain rating for fire resistance.  Styrofoam burns quite nicely.
So you have to install drywall over it to make the fire rating.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: xmaster@eumelos.stgt.sub.org (Peter Dieth)
Subject: Need information about X-10 Powerhouse...
Organization: Eumelos Labs, Reutlingen, Germany
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 17:28:52 GMT


Howdy Netlanders,


I'm desparately seeking information about the X-10 PowerHouse
wiring system (power line control system):

o how to program the controller (program should run under a UNIX based OS)

o any kind of hints & comments


I want to integrate this system (proprietary) in an ``open architecture''
including the heating, several sensors and other components.


PS: I've found several programs on wuarchive.wustl.edu:.../X-10 (ano ftp),
    but these programs are running under MS-DOS (*sigh*).


10E6 thanx in advance,

Peter

-- 
  "No manual can take the place of good, solid experience"
                   - excerpt from ``man 8 intro'' on my SGI IRIS 3030
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: kmosher@kmosher.acd.ucar.edu (Kathleen G. Mosher)
Subject: RE: Question on taxes for selling a house ...
Organization: Ntl Center for Atmospheric Research, Atmospheric Chemistry
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 14:29:50 GMT

In a posting MingMei Lee asks:

>We are in the process of selling our house
>and would appreciate information regarding its tax consequence.

To answer all the questions she had listed, she should obtain
Publication 523 "Tax Information on Selling Your Home" at the 
local IRS office, or by calling 1-800-829-3676.  


Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: chrism@haida.mentorg.com (Chris McCabe)
Subject: Re: More Questions about Loose Laid Vinyl Flooring
Originator: chrism@haida
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 20:55:39 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Mentor Graphics 
Keywords: 
Followup-To: 


In article <1992Sep29.160555.17549@cbfsb.cb.att.com>, tln@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (teresa.l.green) writes:
|> Hello -
|> 	Thanks for the responses about Mannington Gold loose laid
|> vinyl.  I have few more specific questions:
|> 
     I will try to answer the questions from what I remember from a year ago.
All of these questions are answered in a sheet of instructions you get with
the flooring.  They publish a pamphlet also that gives very detailed
instructions about different options for surface preparation and such, but
not many flooring dealers have it.  You might ask around.  The place I went
to just gave it to me when I was looking at flooring.

|> 	How much time do I have before the stuff shrinks too much?
|> 	(12x12 area on a 70 degree day)

  I think you have 2 hours to glue it down.  The temperature is important also.
I think you have to maintain the room above 70 degrees for 2 days before you
lay the floor.

|> 
|> 	What is the recommended adhesive and how wide of an adhesive
|> 	strip do I put on the edges?

  There are two kinds of adhesives made specifically for this type of flooring.
One is for pourous surfaces and the other for smooth surfaces.  You can lay
this type of flooring over just about anything, including old flooring.
  You use a 3 inch band around the edges and a 6 inch band at any seams if
you have them.  There is a tool supplied with the adhesive for spreading it.

|> 	Is regular 1/4" luan plywood the correct surface preparation for 
|> 	this stuff?

  I don't remember exactly what the requirements were, but I think that is
fine.

|> 	If I staple it also, what size and type of staples should I use?

  Don't know.  Never asked.
 
|> 	When do I cut out for drains, before or after the stuff shrinks?
|> 	Should I glue/staple around cutouts?

  Cut out all holes before you lay it down (and therefore before it shrinks)
You should glue/staple around cutouts.


  This flooring lays down really flat and it seems like it doesn't even need
to be glued.  None of the curl remains at all.


   -Chris
-- 
Chris McCabe        chris_mccabe@mentorg.com | Opinions expressed here may not
Mentor Graphics Corporation   (503) 685-7000 | be those of Mentor Graphics and
Member of Technical Staff - Core Engineering | probably not those of the Pope. 
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Electric Drill Recommendation
From: gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston)
Date: Fri, 02 Oct 92 18:55:16 CDT
Organization: Garys' Home for Obsolete Computers

plumpe@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Plumpe) writes:

> In misc.consumers.house, frazier@Armstrong.EDU (Doug Frazier) writes:
> >I want to buy a really good, durable 3/8" VSR drill for general homeowner
> >use.  Can anyone recommend models and good mail-order sources?  Many thanks.
> >
>     I got a DeWalt last year I'm real happy with.  I forget the model
> number, but it's about $55 discount.  It's features:

DeWalt == Black & Decker w/yellow paint.

If you find an used DeWalt made before 1990, by all means grab it,
whether drill, saw, or whatever. But the new ones are virtually
identical to the B&D Professional line. 

I have a B&D which replaced a deceased Craftsman (bought about 
1975 or so). Newer Craftsman tools are an insult to the name.
I'm happy with the B&D (3/8 VSR w/built-in bubble level to help
with vertical alignment when drilling)

Gary Heston, at home....
gary@cdthq.uucp
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,misc.kids,rec.pets.cats
From: draper@gnd1.wtp.contel.com (PAM DRAPER)
Subject: Re: How do you remove urine smells from carpet?
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.3-4   
Reply-To: draper@gnd1.wtp.contel.com
Organization: GTE Government Systems, Federal Systems Division, Chantilly, VA
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 18:24:37 GMT

>>Can anyone recommend a good, proven way to remove the smell of baby and cat
>>urine and spilled milk from carpet?  The smells have built up over the past few 
>>weeks or months and are most intense when the humidity is high and windows are 
>>closed.  We hesitate to replace the carpet at this point since the baby is 
>>still being toilet-trained.  Does anyone have any recommendations?

Read the FAQ!  Clean with carpet shampoo than soak with club soda for
10 minutes and blot up.  Products:  Nature's Miracle, Simple Solutions,
Resolve. Washable items: put in washing machine with a cup of vinegar,
no detergent; then wash again as usual.
From: hale@btree.uucp (Bob Hale)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Gas piping question
Date: 5 Oct 92 19:31:32 GMT
Organization: Brooktree Corporation

In article <1992Oct2.220956.6811@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie) writes:
[ about DIY gas plumbing ]
>The appliance supply line must be at least 1/2" pipe. In some cases,
>copper tubing is allowed (I've only seen this used for heaters). If you
>use copper, all fittings must be compression fittings - *no* solder joints.
>
>You must tap into a supply line which is larger than 1/2" (1/2" pipe can
>only supply one appliance). Come off the line with a length of pipe the
>same size as the supply line (usually 3/4") and put a Tee on the end of
>this. Plug one hole in the Tee and run 1/2" pipe to the vicinity of the
>appliance. Put on a shutoff valve designed for gas and finish the line
>with the final length of pipe and a brass nipple the correct size for the
>appliance flexible supply line.

Be careful about connecting new gas pipes to the old system.  You must
have pipe arge enough to handle the maximum possible gas flow.  Generally,
3/4 inch pipe is *not* adequate for 3 loads (fireplace, furnace, and
dryer).  If the pipe from the meter isn't large enough then you will
have to run another pipe from the meter.

Around here, the gas pipes on the outside of the building are galvanized
while the inside pipes are black iron.

Bob Hale                                      ...!ucsd!btree!hale
...!btree!hale@ucsd.edu                       ...!ucsd!btree!hale@uunet.uu.net
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: siding options?
From: gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 92 18:48:43 CDT
Organization: Garys' Home for Obsolete Computers

foley@meteor.wisc.edu (Jonathan Foley) writes:

> Hello!  My wife and I are living in a very old wooden house (it was built in
> the 1870s).  Paint does not last very long on this beast.  It was painted eve
> 8 years or so for the last 30 years without much luck.  Paint just seems to
> peel right off the sucker.   We don't want to do this.  So, we are considerin
> the options for various kinds of siding and such.  

The most likely problem here is surface preparation. Either there's
something on the surface that's preventing adhesion, or it's not
getting cleaned properly. If it's due for repainting now, try having
everything thoroughly cleaned with a pressure washer, and then primed
with a good-quality primer with a couple of coats of good paint on
top. A 120 year old house has been through a lot; it deserves some
respect. :-)

> We would like to know what we could do.  We aren't too keen on the idea of
> just putting up the normal vinyl siding (or aluminum), but it seems to be
> the most cost-effective means to cover the house.  However, would it be 
> possible to just put new wooden clapboards up instead?  What about the
> cost difference?  We are very new at this sort of thing, so please explain
> what you mean.  By the way, the house is a three story.  In addition, there
> are some areas of the house that are covered with 'scallops' rather than the
> regular clapboards.  We would love to keep them (or something like it).
> 
> Any suggestions would be appreciated!  Email would be fine, or else post
> your responses here - they may be of general interest.  Thanks!

If the existing clapboards are sound (i.e., not rotting), they shouldn't
need replacing (and you probably can't get equal quality wood to replace
them with, nowadays). Avoid the siding if at all possible.

A second possibility that could be causing the paint to peel is interior
humidity. Sealing the interior walls with a vapor-barrier primer might
keep moisture from diffusing through the walls.

Oh, on a house this old, you almost certainly have lead paint. Exercise
reasonable caution when dealing with it.

Gary Heston, at home....
gary@cdthq.uucp
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house