HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: removing cutters and collets
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 20:42:58 GMT

Bob Haar writes
> In article D01D5440@BAEPV3.NCSU.EDU, thomas@BAEPV3.NCSU.EDU writes:
> |>After using my router, usually for an extended time, I have a very
> |>difficult time removing the cutter and collet.  
> .....
> |>BTW, my router is a PC 690, and sees its most use is a router table.
> 
> I have experienced this same problem is several different routers, but 
> it was most pronounced in an old Sears 1/4" collet unit.

This is one of the reasons collet design should be an important factor
when deciding which router to buy. Mark Duginske describes the different
designs, both in a recent FWW article and in his new book "Mastering
Woodworking Machines." The best design is the 3 piece double-clutch
design, found in the Elu routers, some Bosch routers (the newer ones),
some Ryobi routers, and a few others. 

The three pieces are: 1) the hollow shank, which may be slightly tapered
on the inside, 2) the collet itself, which usually has many fingers and
is quite flexible, and 3) the nut, which snaps onto the collet on
a semi-permanent basis. With this type of collet, you loosen the nut, and 
then it seems to be free. But, a turn or so later in the loosening direction
gets harder to do. When you overcome this second resistance the collet
releases the bit. In addition to this easy releasing feature, there's 
an additional safety feature in that the bit won't slide out until
overcoming the second resistance.

I'm not famaliar enough with the PC 690 to know which collet design it uses,
but given that it has this sticking problem, I'd be quite surprised if its
collet is of the 3 piece double-clutch design. Unless, of course, it
is this design and people don't realize it and so aren't loosening the
collet nut enough to go past the second resistance.


- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
"And remember this - there's no more important safety rule than to wear
these: safety glasses."
From: tennis@ziff.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Grizzly G1023 table saw : Opinions Wanted
Date: 27 Sep 92 00:18:37 EDT
Organization: Ziff-Davis, Medford MA

In article <23SEP92.12569879.0046.MUSIC@NMUMUS>, FABY000 <FABY@NMUMUS.BITNET> writes:
> I would buy the Delta contractor saw with unifence and mobile base.
> Roger Barry

I was able to buy a used 3hp Unisaw with a Beisemeyer fence.  If you do not
need a saw right now, perhaps a used saw is the way to go.  Be sure you
know your stuff, though, before buying any used equipment.  I was not too
afraid of getting burned as I bought a name brand saw.  Also, I got to
see his (professional) shop, and it was spotless.  Not the kind of person
I would expect to trash a fine tool.  With used equipment, though, "let
the buyer beware".  

Tony Ennis

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: walt@eng.clemson.edu (Walter B. Ligon III)
Subject: Re: Gustav Strickley (sp?) Designs
Reply-To: walt@eng.clemson.edu
Organization: College of Engineering, Clemson Univ.
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 14:01:29 GMT

In article 1330@inel.gov, crayfe2@inel.gov (John Metzner) writes:
>This past weekend on NYW Norm whipped up a 'settle' based on a Gustav 
>Stickley (sp?) design.  I saw this project discussed a couple weeks ago
>on the net (guess we're a little slow up here in Idaho :^)) along with other
>projects from Gustav Strickley.  I checked the FAQ's for further info on 
>him without any luck.  Are there any books available with his designs?
>Any titles or other info would be much appreciated, a post to the net or
>e-mail would be great.
>

That is a question with multiple answers.  Gus published original furniture
designs in the Craftsman Magazine.  If you have access to a university library,
they will often carry that (maybe in the architecture library, if they have one).
There is a collection of those plans in current print by Dover Press (I think)
and I have a copy of it packed away somewhere, if you need me to I can try to
dig up the ISBN for you.  I think it's just called The Furniture of Gustav Stickley.
The plans are pretty vague, and the pieces are simplified compared to those Gus
actually produced - remember they were *intended* for hobbiests to copy.  There IS
a book that has more detailed plans of Gus's furniture based on measurements taken
from actual pieces (includes some techniques also) by Bavaro, but that book is
out of print.  The last time I looked there was an add in FWW (one of those book
ads) that had it listed, so you might be able to get a copy.  Again, I have a copy
stashed away and I can try to dig it up if you need me to.  There is also a book
by Winston "How to Build Mission Furniture".  I don't have it, but I've looked at
it and the designs are pretty poor by comparison.  Unfortunately, the best way for
most pieces is to find an original and take your own measurements.  If what you want
is design and style ideas, You can buy reprints of Gus's furniture catalogs which
show drawings and pictures (and sometimes give key measurements) of all of his
stuff.  I would also recommend that you look at the catalogs for L&JG Stickley,
Stickley Brothers, and Quaint Furniture.  There are books published by Dover as
well as some other companies like this.  Sorry to be so vague, but I moved recently
and my library of this stuff is in some box somewhere.  If you can't find what
you want, shoot me some mail and I'll try to help you out.

Walt

PS, if you are on the East Coast and want a chance to see some originals, Try the
Arts and Crafts Conference a the Grove Park Inn in February - call 1-800 information
to get their number and call them to get specifics on the conference.  It makes a
great weekend getaway, plus you'll get to see prime examples of Mission furniture.
If you are polite and not too bothersome you migve get to steal a few measurements
with one of those pocket calipers and take some pictures.
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Bandsaw wheel brushes
Date: 5 Oct 92 16:01:42 GMT
Organization: LLNL

I've seen several articles (in woodworking mags) that extol the virtues of
brushes that clean bandsaw wheel tires while the saw is in operation.
Recently I decided to take the advice and install some brushes on my
bandsaw.

Now you might ask "where do you get special brushes for bandsaws?"  That's
the point of this posting.  I didn't get any special brushes, but bought
simple rectangular scrub brushes at my local grocery store.  By cutting
the brush transversely on the bandsaw, I obtained small brushes of the
right size (2 X 3 bristle clumps).  You can get about 4 or 5 such mini-
brushes per scrub brush.  Then they can be mounted by drilling two holes
for machine screws and mounting with a piece of angle iron.  I was a little
more elaborate and made milled aluminum brackets, but the theory is
simple and the installation can be done cheaply and easily.  Best of all,
replacement brushes are inexpensive.

How did they work?  Just great.  No more sawdust embedded in the tires, as
the articles said.  There was also another benefit.  The brush bristles
move in response to tire runout, but in an exaggerated way.  This made it
quite easy to get rid of the last annoying little vibration because I could
watch the bristles as I plied my die grinder to true the tire.

G.

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: rhoover@watson.ibm.com (Roger Hoover)
Subject: Re: removing cutters and collets
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 18:10:59 GMT
Distribution: na
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center

In article <0096156D.D01D5440@BAEPV3.NCSU.EDU>, thomas@BAEPV3.NCSU.EDU writes:
|> 
|> Here's a recurring problem I've had many times, and have never really
|> solved:
|> 
|> After using my router, usually for an extended time, I have a very
|> difficult time removing the cutter and collet.

When you tighten the nuts around the collet, the collet compresses and
forces the bit towards the router.  This is why you need to leave a
sixteenth of an inch or so when you put the bit in.  Otherwise, the bit
bottoms out and the collet digs in to the shank.  Perhaps the 1/4 inch
collet requires more clearence space than the 1/2 inch bits require.

Even when you give the bits enough room, I find that my porter-cable
router still gets bits stuck in the collet.  When this happens, I take
one of the wrenches and start tapping on the exposed shaft, rotating
the bit.  I've had bits that took up to 20 or so taps, but they always
come free.

roger
rhoover@watson.ibm.com
From: wack@ariel.ncsl.nist.gov (John Wack)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: developed vs rated hp
Date: 29 Sep 92 14:09:06 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: National Institute of Standards & Technology



Forgive me if this has already been discussed to death or is in the FAQ,
of which I don't have a current copy.  My questions are: what is the
real meaning behind "developed HP" and, if the meaning is what I think
it is, should the use of "developed" as opposed to "rated" on a power
tool's description incline one to be, for lack of a better word, 
suspicious, like suspicious of its quality?

What I think developed HP means, say for "develops 1 HP," is that the
motor is rated at something less, say about 30 - 50% less, and under
certain conditions, the motor could reach 1 HP.  In other words, the
average or expected or rated HP is some number less than 1 HP, and the
peak HP is 1.  Am I in the ballpark here?

So, if the above is more or less correct, it would seem that a tablesaw
with a motor described as developing 1 HP would be less powerful on the
average than a tablesaw with a motor rated at 1 HP.  Continuing on, it
seems that the use of "developed HP" is a marketing concept to try to
make the consumer think that "develops 1 HP" and "rated at 1 HP" are
equivalent, when in truth they're not.

All this came up with me when I got a recent catalog from AMT.  Their
stuff looks good, but the pricing looks too good.  All their motors
are described with "develops" as opposed to "rated."  Perhaps I'm
going too far, but I wonder if their use of this type of rating means
that they're not being quite so upfront about the quality of their
products.   I know that Sears uses this type of rating as well, and
while Sears does make some good products, it seems fair to say that
the quality of their stuff has declined.

Does anyone care to comment?
Thanks in advance,
John Wack
From: kassover@rumsey.crd.ge.com (David Kassover)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: developed vs rated hp
Date: 5 Oct 92 19:10:06 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: nope

In article <1992Oct2.183858.13226@m2xenix.psg.com> steveh@m2xenix.psg.com (Steve Hampson) writes:
>bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds) writes:
>: 
>: What happens to your blood pressure when you see a drill press with an
>: 8" swing advertised as a 16" drill press?
>
>This is wrong.  Drill press and lathe capacities are described by the
>largest *diameter* circle that will fit from spindle to column or ways.
>So, a 16" drill press has 8" of space from spindle to column and will
>swing 16" not 8".

Actually, I've seen various lathes described with swing as either
diameter or radius.

Furthermore, some old machining handbooks and textbooks I have
state that the careful worker will examine a lathe that is new to
him quite carefully, in particular to discover whether the cross
slide is calibrated for reduction in radius or diameter.  (That
is, does the scale indicate the actual travel of the tool, or
half that amount).  I've seen 'em both ways.


-- 
David Kassover             "Proper technique helps protect you against
uupsi!khazad!kassover	          sharp weapons and dull judges."
kassover@aule-tek.com                   F. Collins
kassover@ra.crd.ge.com
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 29 Sep 1992 21:05:02 EDT
From:         FABY000 <FABY@NMUMUS.BITNET>
Subject:      Routers for table

I have a PC plunge router and when I used it with my router table I had
a problem with the router moving up as I used it for dovetail cuts I
believe the locking mechanism was not secure enough to hold the router
as the dovetails werebeing cut.  The bit moved up a little.  It was not
loose in the collet.  Now I use a non-plunge router and everything is
fine.  Roger Barry
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: hwilson@scic.intel.com (Howard Wilson)
Subject: Re: developed vs rated hp
Organization: Intel Corporation, Beaverton, OR
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 19:03:31 GMT

In article <5824@dove.nist.gov> wack@ariel.ncsl.nist.gov (John Wack) writes:
>
>
>Forgive me if this has already been discussed to death or is in the FAQ,
>of which I don't have a current copy.  My questions are: what is the
>real meaning behind "developed HP" and, if the meaning is what I think
>it is, should the use of "developed" as opposed to "rated" on a power
>tool's description incline one to be, for lack of a better word, 
>suspicious, like suspicious of its quality?
>
>.... text deleted.
>
>Does anyone care to comment?
>Thanks in advance,
>John Wack
>  
>

Yes, I think all of us should band together and write a nasty letter
to the marketing folks at tool companies who insist on advertising 
their products like this.  Every time I see this word "developes" before
a HP rating my blood boils!  I'm an EE by profession so I understand
this bogus terminology and just look at the current ratings (continuous
operation under normal load) to make a judgement.  What frosts me the
most is that not all potential customers of power tools may fully
understand these basic concepts and are being taken for a ride....
I better stop here!



-- 
Howard Wilson
Intel Corporation		Supercomputer Interconnect Components Group
5200 NE Elam Young Parkway	MS CO5-01     Email: hwilson@scic.intel.com
Hillsboro, OR  97124		Phone: 503-531-5056
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: dnsurber@lescsse.jsc.nasa.gov (Douglas N. Surber)
Subject: Thank you for your support (Was: How do I bend an oak 4x4?)
Organization: Lockheed Engineering and Sciences
Date:  6 Oct 92 14:27:03 GMT

Thanks for all of the suggestions.

I should have been a little more clear in one respect, the piece will have
a clear finish so the grain pattern is important.

With an opaque finish pieceing it together and sawing out the curve
would be the easiest. With a clear finish that won't leave as nice a
grain. 

Laminating seems to be the next easiest choice.  I'm going to do some
experiments and see what the impact is on the grain.

Appearantly boat builders bend pieces of this size on occasion so that
is still a possibility.  I'm going to try to track down the article in
Fine Woodworking.  If I'm not satisfied with my laminated test pieces
and further study indicates that steam bending is doable I might give it
a try.  I would prefer to go with lamination though.

As far a rounding goes, finding a shop that will run them through a
shaper would certainly be the easiest.  I'll look into that.  But I
really like Tom Littauer's shoeshine suggestion.  Of course that would
be the equivalent of a *lot* of shiney shoes.

Thanks once again for all the help.

Douglas Surber
Lockheed
Houston, TX
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: fkilpatr@afit.af.mil (Freeman A. Kilpatrick)
Subject: Re: Miscellaneous Questions...
Organization: Air Force Institute of Technology
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1992 20:28:22 GMT

davek@informix.com (David Kosenko) writes:

>In article <8090013@hpfcdc.fc.hp.com> rer@hpfcdc.fc.hp.com (Rob Robason) writes:
>>I have a few general questions:
>>
>>1) Norm (NYWS) uses a combo phillips driver/countersink, apparently
>>    slipping the countersink over the hex phillips driver.  This is a
>>    really slick tool that I've looked for in my local stores to no
>>    avail.  Anyone have any ideas about where to get this?

Almost all of the big woodworking mail-order houses sell these things in
an assortment of sizes.  I have one, and it works pretty well, although
it does tend to wobble a little (because of the length)  I got mine from
Woodcraft
210 Wood Country Industrial Park
P.O. Box 1686
Parkersburg, WV 26102-1686   
ph 1-800-225-1153

The FAQ lists lots of other catalog supply houses.   
(btw, they have *lots* of gadgets you will never see in a store.  Have
your credit card ready :)

ak


-- 
Alex Kilpatrick  fkilpatr@afit.af.mil  
"There are also persistant rumors that IBM will soon offer a hard-disk drive, 
an expensive accessory that only a businessman would want..."
--- Popular Computing, December 1981
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: psv2b@poe.acc.Virginia.EDU (Peter S. Vines)
Subject: Lathe sanding - avoiding sanding rings
Organization: University of Virginia
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 12:19:15 GMT

I've completed a couple of projects on a wood lathe; candle stands, lamps,
etc... It's always quite difficult to eliminate or avoid rings around the
object after sanding.  I use various grits, pressure, and speeds.  
Are there tricks that I'm missing, or will I always have to manually sand
the piece with the grain after I'm done with the lathe?
Any and all tips are appreciated...


--
- Peter Vines : vines@virginia.edu : (804) 924-4644 : University of Virginia
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: thomas@BAEPV3.NCSU.EDU
Subject: Update on removing cutters from collets
Reply-To: thomas@BAEPV3.NCSU.EDU
Organization: North Carolina State University
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 18:13:24 GMT


Thanks to all who responded to my question on how to remove stuck
cutters from the collet!

It seems most respondents suggest inserting the cutter only most of the
way into the collet.  Let me rephase that before I get flamed...
It seems that the route to take is to insert the cutter _most_ of the
way into the collet, but not till it bottoms out.  Then after making the 
cuts and loosening or removing the tightening ring, you can tap the 
cutter down to loosen it.

Some also suggested tapping the cutter on its shaft while turning it.  this
is what I normally do, and it just hasn't worked for me, but if it works 
for you then great.

Something else to remember that someone suggested was to make sure to 
keep the collet, the receiving socket, and the shaft of cutter clean
and free from pitch and other goo that tends to collect.

Again thanks to all

Scot Thomas   thomas@bae.ncsu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: eap@vuse.vanderbilt.edu (Edward A. Parrish)
Subject: Re: Lathes < $500?
Organization: Vanderbilt University School of Engineering, Nashville, TN, USA
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 14:54:04 GMT


In article <7332.2ac2f5b2@dcatla.uucp> cxjpg@dcatla.uucp writes:
>Hi - does anybody on this group have any experience with lathes under $500?
>My wife and I are looking at Delta's recent offering, which we can get for
>around $390.  Additionally, what sort of chisels, attachments, etc. will
>we want to get for our initial foray into turning?  We mostly want to
>mess around and make the occasional small bowl, decorative turnings,
>etc.  
>
>Thanks!
>
>/// Jeff Garbers

I had a Craftsman lathe for many years that I got good
service from. However, the current model just doesn't
appear to me to be of the same quality as the one I
had. I'm now looking around for a new one myself and
am leaning toward the Delta - it's much more of a quality
tool I think.

Ed Parrish
From: wesw@hpmwtd.sr.hp.com (Wes Whiteley)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 23:17:17 GMT
Subject: D handled routers? Pros & Cons?
Organization: HP Santa Rosa Site (SRSD MWTD)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking


I would like to get peoples opinions and experiences with using "D" handle
routers vs. standard routers.  Are there any reasons (other than personal 
preference) for one type over the other?

Thanks in advance,

Wes Whiteley

wesw@sr.hp.com
(707) 577-5292




Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: pictures@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu (Bill Wiegand)
Subject: Makita TableSaw
Summary: Makita Table Saws
Keywords: Makita Table Saws
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 14:31:08 GMT

I'm familiar with the reputation of Makita power tools and am considering
the purchase of a table saw.  About 90% of the discussion here is with
Delta table saws.  My question-----Though I've never seen one, does anyone
have any experience with Makita table saws?  My Makita catalog lists
two models.

All opinions will be appreciated.
Thanks,
Bill
pictures@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: rmrin@cbnewsk.cb.att.com (r.m.rickert)
Subject: Re:      Re: How do I discourage woodpeckers?
Organization: AT&T
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 18:43:55 GMT

In article <1992Sep29.162600.13438@macc.wisc.edu> davallen@vms.macc.wisc.edu writes:
>In article <94066FBD602076A1@PLU.BITNET>,         "LARRY NELSON, writes...
>
>>>Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 12:59:21 GMT
>>>From: "(warren.a.montgomery)" <warren@CBNEWSH.CB.ATT.COM>
>>>Subject: How do I discourage woodpeckers?
>>>
>>>My mother recently moved into a new condo with wooden trim made
>>>from rough sawn lumber (cedar, I think), that has either been
>>>stained with a heavy stain or painted with thin paint.
>>>Unfortunately, the neighborhood woodpeckers have taken an
>>>irresistable liking to one post on her porch (actually it's just
>>>trim over a metal pole, so it's not a structural problem).
>> 
>Since I'm in the midst of building a log home right now, & there are a lot
>of woodpeckers in the neighborhood, I've been concerned about this too.  I
>don't have any "for sure" answers, but one thing I heard recently that
>is supposed to work is to put up an owl decoy (these are sold in sporting
>goods places for use in crow hunting).  Apparently the owl is supposed
>to scare away the wood peckers.  This is only hearsay, but it might be 
>worth the cost of a decoy to try it out...
>
>	Dave Allen
>	Space Science & Engr. Ctr.
>	UW-Madison
>

My house is brick first level, rough sawn something second level and I've
had this problem for years, strangly enoungh, usually only near the corners.
Two plastic woodpeckers bought in Kmart for $10 put near the areas of heaviest
damage reduce greatly the problem (but some dumb birds still take trial pecks),
I've also got a phony owl in the garage but have never tried it.
One year we had a woodpecker build a nest inside the wall.  My wife made me
leave it till the next Spring.  I stuffed almost half a bat of fiberglass 
back into the hollow wall.  I suspect the nest's occupant had a bit of a
stomach ache after eating all that fiberglass.

-- 

Dick Rickert  AT&T Consumer Products Laboratory
From: stuarts@landau.ucdavis.edu (Stuart Staniford-Chen)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Thickness planers
Summary: What about the Grizzly 15"?
Date: 30 Sep 92 03:24:04 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Physics, UC Davis
Originator: stuarts@landau.ucdavis.edu

I've greatly appreciated the recent thread about planers, since I am in the
market for one in the next few months if I can get the cash together.  Now
I know that the Makita is a better bet than the Delta, amongst the portables
anyway.

I'm curious to know though, does anyone have any experience with the Grizzly
15" thicknesser ($735 on the inside front cover of the current Fine
Woodworking)?  What good and bad things have happened?

Thinking about it, these kinds of discussions must go around and around
on rec.woodworking over the years.  Probably every likely machine has been
discussed several times.  Perhaps we should have an anonymous ftp site
with reviews of machines contributed to the group.  There are too many
for them all to go in the FAQ.

Stuart Staniford-Chen
stuarts@jeeves.ucdavis.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking