HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: gary@ke4zv.uucp (Gary Coffman)
Newsgroups: rec.radio.amateur.misc
Subject: Re: Re: The Truth about UHF Connectors (please repost!)
Date: 30 Sep 92 04:08:32 GMT
Reply-To: gary@ke4zv.UUCP (Gary Coffman)
Organization: Gannett Technologies Group

In article <1992Sep29.144311.10834@nntpd.lkg.dec.com> koning@koning.enet.dec.com writes:
>In article <14570501@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com>, alanb@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Alan Bloom) writes:
>|>Are type N's really water-PROOF?  I have seen water-damaged coax
>|>with N connectors.  Perhaps the gasket was not properly seated due
>|>to incorrect installation.  Maybe we should say that N connectors
>|>are water-RESISTANT.
>|>
>|>AL N1AL
>
>Waterproof, no.  (To me, "waterproof" means you can take it scuba-diving
>without problem.)  I believe Amphenol calls them "weatherproof" which
>seems to mean they can be left out in rain/fog/snow without further protection.
>
>Yes, that assumes proper installation.  It also assumes using the proper
>variant; not all variants are rated "weatherproof".
>
>Incidentally, (most) BNC connectors are also rated "weatherproof".  Not
>surprising if you look at them carefully; you'll see a rubber gasket around
>the coax, and another rubber gasket inside the outer shell where it will
>seal against the top rim of the jack.

Neither of these connectors is really weatherproof. The use of silicone
grease and either heatshrink or self-vulcanizing tape is mandatory on
outdoor connectors for a professional installation. BNCs are worse than
Ns because the threaded connection can resist water better than the 
bayonet connection, but water *will* seep into either given time. This
is mainly a problem at higher frequencies where just a little water,
less than a drop, will make the connection lossy. Water wicking into
the braid through a connector/jacket leak is less of a problem with
connectors that employ a rubber sealing gasket, if it's installed
properly, but it isn't foolproof. It's good policy to always coat
a connection with silicone grease and seal it with heatshrink or
self-vulcanizing tape, not electrical tape. If you do this, then
crimp connectors are just as waterproof as the fancy Amphenols while
being cheaper and easier to install.

In our 2 GHz microwave links used by our live trucks, we've quit using
anything but Kings crimp connectors. They have superior mechanical 
strength and take only  seconds to install properly. With the proper
protection, they last for years. We've never had an unprotected connector
last through more than a couple of rainstorms, even the prissy Amphenols.
Installing an Amphenol connector is an exacting process that is very
tedious. Getting good mechanical strength out of such connections is
a hit or miss affair. You can swing from a good Kings connection on
RG9, I wouldn't try that with an Amphenol. (not a recomended practice
in any event, but it does demonstrate the mechanical strength of a good
crimp connection and news monkeys are very heavy handed)

Gary KE4ZV
From: pfowler@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com (Pat Fowler)
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1992 21:27:51 GMT
Subject: Re: Batteries on concrete
Organization: Hewlett Packard - Boise, ID
Newsgroups: rec.radio.amateur.misc

OK ! I have resisted this battery on concrete thing for weeks and
I can't resist !

My question concerns storage of batteries in the garage. Now I use my
440 mobile and keep the batteries in the front of my truck on the floor.
I have had good sucess with this and have experienced no leaks ... FB !

Now the question ... When not mobile, I store the deep cycle batteries
in my son's little red wagon. When I use them again, I find that the 
voltage ( and hence capacity I think ) is a little lower. My question
is "Am I still safe in a wagon ( with rubber wheels ) even though the
the wagon wheels are on the concrete floor " ?

I was thinking all was OK until I hear about these little "GRIMLINS".

Is there any chance that these "GRIMLINS" could be responsible for the
dip in voltage ?

73 Pat N7MPS/M
From: randall@informix.com (Randall Rhea)
Newsgroups: rec.radio.amateur.misc
Subject: Re: Novice Class Question
Date: 1 Oct 92 00:10:07 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

rhatch@sdsu.edu (Richard Hatch) writes:

>I was once a ham back in the olden days before transistors (mid '50s).  I 
>was KN9GNP and later K9GNP (Technician Class) in the late '50s.  At that 
>time, as I understood it, you could only be a Novice once, ever, for life.  
>Is that rule still in effect, or is it possible for me to become a Novice 
>again?  

>I've pretty much forgotten the code, and the electronics has pretty much 
>changed since then, so I imagine I'd be starting pretty close to zero, and 
>Novice Class might be appropriate.

Welcome back to ham radio!

Today, the Novice class ticket, like all other classes of
ham licenses, is valid for 10 years and is renewable.  Novices
have small sections of the 80m, 40m, 15m, and 10m band
for CW, and may also operate SSB phone on 10m from 28.3 to
28.5 MHz.   VFOs are permitted now also.

You may become a Novice again.   I would suggest dropping
by Radio Shack and picking up the Novice Class License course
that they offer. (It's in a small blue binder with cassettes)
You should be able to pick up the code again with no problem.

You will take the test from a Volunteer Examiner (VE) in or
near your community.  The FCC no longer gives tests.  The Radio
Shack book will tell you about how to take the test.

-- 

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Randall Rhea                                        Informix Software, Inc. 
Project Manager, MIS Sales/Marketing Systems    uunet!pyramid!infmx!randall
Newsgroups: rec.radio.amateur.misc
Subject: US Amateur Lisence for foriegners
From: mohan@jupiter.cse.utoledo.edu (Mohan Pakkurti)
Date: 5 Oct 92 10:08:04 EST

Hi,

What is the procedure for a foriegn national to get an Amateur Lisence in the
USA. ?

Do foriegn nationals take different exams? Can someone give me this info?

Thanks :)

-- 
===============================================================================
+ Mohanakrishna Pakkurti            + mohan@jupiter.cse.utoledo.edu           +
+ HOME: 2917 Kendale #204, Toledo OH 43606. Phone:(419)472-6936               +
===============================================================================
From: alanb@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Alan Bloom)
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 19:14:43 GMT
Subject: Re: Drake TR-7 problem
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Rosa, CA
Newsgroups: rec.radio.amateur.misc

In rec.radio.amateur.misc, michaeln@hpcvnb.CV.HP.COM (Mike_Nason) writes:

>   This is an unqualified answer BUT, if I remember right the TR7 uses
>some sort of diode matrix to set the frequency limits. Might one of the
>diodes be giving you trouble? 

That would only affect transmit.  He was having problems on both transmit
and receive.

AL N1AL
From: margie@nic.cerf.net (Marjorie Templeton)
Newsgroups: rec.radio.amateur.misc
Subject: Re: ONE MORE BNC/N CONNECTOR QUESTION...
Date: 1 Oct 92 13:27:49 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: CERFnet

The widest assortment of coaxial connectors at small order quantities I've
found is from The RF Connection in Gaithersburg, MD.  1-800-783-2666.
I've found the ones mentioned, BNC on 174, etc, also moderate assortment of
cable and antenna wire.
	Darrel, KI6VY, darrel@dii.com - from a shared account at cerfnet

Newsgroups: rec.radio.amateur.misc
From: unbham@jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca (UNB Amateur Radio)
Subject: Reorganization...
Organization: University of New Brunswick
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 14:22:37 GMT

I don't think that the current structure should be modified, but I do
think that maybe a moderated group should be started *just* for announcements
(such as orbital elements, dx, rtty and space news, propagation predictions,
etc)  Trying to locate these can be a real nuisance sometimes..  One can 
only hit K so many times before one's finger gets sore :-)

73 de ve1djb
Derek

btw nice to see 10m opening up again...              

Newsgroups: rec.radio.amateur.misc
From: terry@col.hp.com (Terry Thero)
Subject: ATV Repeater ?
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 20:12:51 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division

Hi Net,

   A while back, I saw someone had a two-meter repeater for sale.

   I am looking for an ATV repeater for sale (input/output filters,
   etc., xmitter, rcvr, linear, et. al.). I could supply the 
   input/output antennas myself. Does any one know of a repeater 
   available (will have to check with the freq. coordinator to find
   freq. - but imagine it will be 439.25mhz or there abouts).

   Please send e-mail with what's available and rough price to:

                 _____________________________________________ 
                 | Terry W. Thero: e-mail:                    | 
                 |                 terry@col.hp.com           |
                 |____________________________________________|
                 |    The Only Easy Day Was Yesterday         |
                 |____________________________________________|

    Thanks,
						CU
						twthero
                                                WB0OMM
From: <tonyp@cnvxla.COM> (good, Conan - good!)
Subject: Re: An AMTOR question
Reply-To: tonyp@convex.COM 
Organization: CONVEX Computer Corporation, Richardson, Tx., USA
Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1992 19:47:18 GMT
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by a user at CONVEX Computer
              Corp. The opinions expressed are those of the user and
              not necessarily those of CONVEX.

In article <1992Oct5.173256.196@news.acns.nwu.edu> rdewan@casbah.acns.nwu.edu (Rajiv Dewan) writes:
}I worked some AMTOR qsos this last weekend and noticed that there
}are some stations that send out endless streams of selcals in the 
}ARQ mode.  For instance:
}
}VVAE VVAE VVAE VVAE VVAE VVAE VVAE VVAE VVAE VVAE ....
} 
}I realize that VVAE is probably not under the jurisdiction
}of FCC.  

Well, in the 4-letter mode you can set your SELCAL to be anything you'd
like. I used to use TONY, but realized that that was causing confusion,
so I switched to the defacto standard of your 1st letter followed by
your last 3 (for old-style callsigns). 

The 7-letter mode will not allow you to do that.

I would imagine that it was one of our northern brethren in SELFEC mode.

de WA2EAA / WEAA / MAZEAAA

--
Tony J. Podrasky |  What's this thing?
 San Diego , Ca   |  It's called a MODEM.
tonyp@convex.com |  And what's this button for? 
WA2EAA NNNN ZCZC  |  Whatever you do, don't touc{{{7bh6xx!{@%%hxbd&$#)$% NO CARRIER
Newsgroups: rec.radio.amateur.misc
From: rhatch@sdsu.edu (Richard Hatch)
Subject: Novice Class Question
Organization: San Diego State University
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 16:44:51 GMT

I was once a ham back in the olden days before transistors (mid '50s).  I 
was KN9GNP and later K9GNP (Technician Class) in the late '50s.  At that 
time, as I understood it, you could only be a Novice once, ever, for life.  
Is that rule still in effect, or is it possible for me to become a Novice 
again?  

I've pretty much forgotten the code, and the electronics has pretty much 
changed since then, so I imagine I'd be starting pretty close to zero, and 
Novice Class might be appropriate.

This seems like a somewhat specialized question that might not be in an FAQ 
file--sorry if it is.

Dick Hatch
San Diego State University

Incidentally, I once found a real-life use for Morse code.  I got stuck in 
an elevator on campus in a parking structure on a vacation day, and I amused 
myself by sending many personal comments about the manufacturer (and his 
mother) on the emergency bell in Morse code while I was waiting for someone 
to notice and call the emergency crew.  The guy who showed up to get me out 
and fix the elevator, a former ham, was quite amused.

Newsgroups: rec.radio.amateur.misc
From: chuck@eng.umd.edu (Chuck Harris - WA3UQV)
Subject: Re: Collins paint
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 92 17:04:22 GMT
Organization: University of Maryland, Department of Electrical Engineering
Distribution: na

In article <1992Sep30.141607.3853@cbfsb.cb.att.com> 5rtrtrt@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (richard.e.stealey) writes:
>I need to be able to paint a Collins rig (312B4 power meter) with the 
>original color and finsih.  I bought a can of paint from Surplus Sales
>of Nebraska ($12 !!) that was supposed to be the real thing, and the
>color was a good match but the finish was satin instead of glossy so
>it doesn't look good next to other Collins equipment.

It is nearly impossible to get a good paint job using a "paint bomb".  If you
want to get the original finish, you will have to find someone who knows how to
properly prepare the chassis, and how to correctly use a good quality spray
gun (who knows, it may even be you? :-).  OBTW, the paint on the Collin's 
S-line gear was never glossy.  If yours seems glossy to you, it might be that
you have a different opinion of what glossy is, or barring that, repainted
gear.  (glossy is what is supposed to come on new cars)  The "satin" finish
that you got is probably due to "overspray" from the "paint bomb".  It is a
classic problem with spray paint cans, and there is nothing you can do to
prevent it.

The paint in the "paint bomb" that you got from SSN is the correct paint.  If
you want to get the paint for use in a spray gun, it can be ordered from the
company that originally provided the paint to Collins.  The company is named
Klinger Paint Company of Cedar Rapids (319)366-7735.  The paint number for
the front ring is #126, the front panel is #250, and the case is #180.  Klinger
has a minimum order of 1 gallon for each color, and the price is ~$100 per
gallon!

I am told that a suitable replacement paint can be mixed by Pittsburg Paints.
the info is:
		Trim ring: 	20-110 B10 C12  (white and pastel mixing base)

		Cabinet:	20-150 B34 C12  (midtone mixing base)

		for extra shine (more than the Collins ever had!) mix
		54-150 in equal proportions with the base.

This paint is labeled "house paint", and is priced more reasonably.  These 
paint formulas come from the "The Collins Collector's" magazine.  As I
understand it, the Pittsburg paint formulas are used by a lot of restorers.

73,

Chuck Harris - WA3UQV
chuck@eng.umd.edu

Newsgroups: rec.radio.amateur.misc
From: st1pb@rosie.uh.edu (Burris, Dean E.)
Subject: Mac ham software
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: University of Houston
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 01:11:00 GMT

Can someone please post a list of ftp sites that have a few of the 
mac ham radio programs.  Thanks in advance.

Dean - KB5USC
From: tskelton@ncrclm.ClemsonSC.NCR.COM (Tom Skelton)
Newsgroups: rec.radio.amateur.misc
Subject: Verticals (question re: GAP)
Date: 28 Sep 92 14:29:47 GMT
Reply-To: tskelton@ncrclm.ClemsonSC.NCR.COM (Tom Skelton)
Organization: NCR E&M CLEMSON Liberty, SC

Someone asked about the performance of the "GAP" vertical; he was
going to mount it on his roof I believe.  There have been other messages
about the Cushcraft vertical versus cost, etc...I will not rehash old
history, but will share a couple of comments and observations of my own.

On our Southeastern DX packetcluster, one user (not to be named) was
sufficiently dissatisfied with the GAP vertical that he sent an e-mail
to ALL registering his disappointment.  I don't know how he mounted it,
where he mounted it, etc..but his major complaint was the limited
bandwidth.  Enough about the GAP, here are my experiences with verticals.
I have used a Butternut HF6V  ( 80 - 10 meters) on 2 trips to Bermuda
for contests, and left it there for visitors and my host VP9ID to use.
On returning to the states, VP9ID and I made several tests between the
HF6V and his 3 element tribander at 40 ft.  (The vertical had between
4 and 8 radials per band)  The tribander was ALWAYS 10 dB better than
the vertical, a fact I could belief based on the difficulty of running
USA stations in the IARU and ARRL contests and fighting Europeans to 
hold a run frequency.  However, the Butternut HF6V vertical has great
bandwidth on 40 - 10 meters (with no adjustment to the coils), and was
pretty good on 80.  I could set it for minimum SWR at 3.75 MHZ, and have
no trouble with the rig making contacts at 3.5 (but the SWR was 3:1).
I also compared the vertical at home between my 40, 20 and 15 meter 
monobanders and saw, again, at least 10 dB improvement of the monobanders
over the vertical (no surprise).  The great design of the Butternut is
in the phsical size of the matching coils on 80 and 40, the use of
high voltage/quality transmitting caps on the 80 and 40 coils, and the
fact that it uses no coils for 20 - 10 meter operation.  For an expedition,
mobile work, or limited space, my feeling is forget GAP or Cushcraft:
use the butternut.
During the 1992 ARRL DX SSB contest, using a 100 watt transceiver and a
Butternut HF6V vertical from Bermduda, I was able to make over 1900 QSO's
in the contest.  Many stateside stations complemented me on my signal on
80 and 40 meters...clearly due to the design of the antenna.  I also had
4 ground radials on 80 and 12 radials on 40.  
To the station that was asking about the GAP antenna, please talk to 
other vertical  users before you spend that much money on something that
may give you unsatisfactory results. 
Sorry this droned on so long, but antennas are somewhat of a *religion*
here.  73, Tom WB4IUX
Non-standard disclaimer:  The opinions, statements and results are those
of mine and mine only.  My employer has no responisibility for these
statements, nor any clue that they have me in the wrong engineering
design group!
*************************  D X   L I V E S *************************


--
Organization: Stanford Linear Accelerator Center
Date: Tuesday, 6 Oct 1992 16:41:03 PST
From: <MGB@SLACVM.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.radio.amateur.misc
Subject: Toyota's and transmitters


I understand that there may be some way to run a 10 watt or larger
trasmitter in a Toyota, without blowing out the onboard computer.
I would appreciate any information on getting around this problem.

Still waiting for my number and letters.

Michael.

Standard Disclaimers
From: HWells.El_Segundo@xerox.COM
Newsgroups: rec.radio.amateur.misc
Subject: Safety of auto battery for power?
Date: 2 Oct 92 20:51:15 GMT
Organization: UCSD Usenet Gateway
NNTP-Posting-Host: ucsd.edu

>My question is: during a charge, does a lead-acid cell such as this
>emit any dangerous fumes?  I will trickle charge with no special circuit,
>using a 3 amp supply on occasion for a day or two just to keep it up.
>I want it to be near full charge at any given point.  I plan to use the
battery once a month to operate for a few hours (test and recharge).
>
>Clark
>
1.  Lead-acid batteries emit hydrogen gas during charge.  The area around the
batteries must be free of fire and should be well vented.

2.  Trickle charging is correct for a lead-acid cell as it prefers to be fully
charged at all times.  I've found that "car" batteries like to have a minimum
charge current of 100-200ma continuously, which is just enough to overcome the
internal leakage current.  However, the trickle charge current value can go up
to 1 amp periodically if necessary to restore the battery to a full charge.

3.  One of the cautions about a continuous charge, however, is that the cell
will lose water at a fairly rapid rate and water must be restored to the cell
to maintain cell life.

4.  The preferred method for charging lead-acid is to float the battery on a
constant voltage value bus where the continuous charge current is essentially
zero.  This allows the terminal voltage value to have control over the actual
charge condition.  In theory, the charge current is zero as long as the
terminal voltage is high indicating a full charge.  As the terminal voltage
decreases due to discharge, the charge current rises restoring the full charge,
and in return, reducing the charge current to zero.

5.  The constant voltage charge method at essentially a zero current will the
cell to retain water for the longest period of time  --  "maintenance free
period" so to speak.

Hope this helps,

73  Hugh Wells,   W6WTU
From: mac@cis.ksu.edu (Myron A. Calhoun)
Newsgroups: rec.radio.amateur.misc
Subject: Re: Barry elctronics...
Date: 6 Oct 92 17:16:17 GMT
Organization: Kansas State University
Distribution: na
NNTP-Posting-Host: depot.cis.ksu.edu

5rtrtrt@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (richard.e.stealey) writes:
     ......
>We hams did it to ourselves when we decided the buck was more important
>than local service.  Hams have the reputation of being the cheapest
>of the cheapskates when it comes to buying anything.  

Which just proves that the REAL meaning
of the word "HAM" is "Hardly Any Money"!

(with apologies to another thread)
--Myron.
-- 
# We preserve our freedoms using four boxes:  soap, ballot, jury, and cartridge.
# Myron A. Calhoun, PhD EE; Assoc. Professor  (913) 539-4448 home
# INTERNET: mac@cis.ksu.edu (129.130.10.5)          532-6350 work, 532-7353 fax
#     UUCP: ...rutgers!depot!mac     Packet-BBS: W0PBV @ K0VAY.#NEKS.KS.USA.NAOM
Newsgroups: rec.radio.amateur.misc
From: plumer@boreas.Stanford.EDU (Edward S. Plumer)
Subject: Morse Mania password
Organization: Stanford University, California, USA
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 92 01:07:07 GMT

oops,  as pointed out by several folks,  Stuffit asks
for a password when de-archiving Morse Mania 1.0.
When prompted for password, just hit return (no password)

I should have mentioned that...

73 Edward
.



Newsgroups: rec.radio.amateur.misc
From: scotto@ipars.cts.com (Scott O'Connell)
Subject: Motorola Spectra UHF
Organization: Spectrum Data Services - Carlsbad, CA
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1992 19:46:33 GMT
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]


I'm looking for information on programming a Motorola Spectra UHF 450-482
down into amateur.  If you have *any* information on doing this please 
email.  I have 90 open channels and I'd love to put amateur into some these
so I can get rid of my MaxTrac.

Thanks in advance!

scotto@ipars.cts.com
-- 

Scott O'Connell - N6ZEK                UUCP: {nosc, ucsd}!crash!ipars!scotto
Spectrum Data Services                 ARPA: crash!ipars!scotto@nosc.mil
Carlsbad, CA                           INET: scotto@ipars.cts.com
From: rfinch@water.ca.gov (Ralph Finch)
Newsgroups: rec.radio.amateur.misc
Subject: Morse code decoding with DSP filter?
Date: 3 Oct 92 04:25:44 GMT
Organization: Calif. Dept. of Water Resources

I found a Morse code decoder the other day on some PC archives...if
you have a '286 or better, and a SoundBlaster card with a Digital
Signal Processor board, it purports to be able to translate Morse into
characters through a microphone input.  Has anybody tried it?  I'm
thinking of getting the SoundBlaster card just for this, but don't
want to spend the bucks if the program doesn't work.

PS  The program name is 'fftmorse'; most any large PC archive site
should have it:

Host ftp.uu.net

    Location: /systems/ibmpc/msdos/simtel20/hamradio
           FILE -rw-r--r--      27344  May 15 16:00  fftmorse.zip

--
Ralph Finch			916-653-8268
rfinch@water.ca.gov		...ucbvax!ucdavis!caldwr!rfinch
Any opinions expressed are my own; they do not represent the DWR
From: paul@n3eop.pgh.pa.us (paul)
Newsgroups: rec.radio.amateur.misc
Subject: Re: HF Weather FAX and PC's
Keywords: fax pc
Date: 6 Oct 92 02:41:10 GMT
Organization: CrossRoads in Elizabeth, PA

noah@acsu.buffalo.edu (Philip D. Noah) writes:

> I have a 386/40 with VGA and all the goodies incl a FAX-Modem. I also have
> a few HF radios a Halicrafter SX-43 and R-44, and a Realistic DX-440.
> What I want to do is use the 440 to pick up faxs. I was wondering what i'd
> have to do. from what i assume it should be a matter of a cable from the
> speaker jack to the fax-modem..set the fax modem for 1200 baud and bingo.
> of course it can't be that simple (and cheap) can it ?

Nope; they are different beasts.

The FAX card uses digital signals; the WEFAX like you hear on 8080 KHz is 
analog.  I've seen a simple kit that uses a chip, a transistor, and the 
game port on the PC.  Kit with software was selling for around $25; that 
was several years ago, and I forget who was selling them.

Maybe someone else around here has that info.