HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Converting to electronic ignition
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1992 08:05:18 -0500

 DK>         There is a another option in the JC Whitney catalog. It uses a
 DK> infrared diode and pickup for the point and rotor. There are slots
 DK> in the cap, the width of the gap sets dwell angle. These run about
 DK> $70 and you specify the engine, dwell etc. 
 DK>         Anyone know if this system in any good. I am contemplating 
 DK> getting this for a 73 Jeep.  Points are just to much of a pain to deal 
 DK> with.

This is the Allison unit, which I have been using for about a decade on many
different cars (4, 6, & 8 cyl) with excellent results. The only differences from
the regular Allison product are the packaging and the fact that the lifetime
warranty does not include adapter kits for any car you might buy during your
lifetime; and of course, the price.

 DK>    David Kardelis               | I am the NRA-NRA Life
 
        Frank Mallory                        ditto



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: Exhaust Manifold Stud Removal
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 20:37:06 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

In article <1992Aug27.190034.24489@ccu.umanitoba.ca> larrigan@eeserv.ee.umanitoba.ca (John Larrigan) writes:
>tzing@nyx.cs.du.edu (Tom Zing) writes:
>
>
>>I have a broken exhaust manifold stud frozen in my aluminium head.  The
>>stud piece is about an inch long.  I have tryed liquid wrench and some 
>>vibration to try and loosen it.  Does any one know how to remove it ?
>>Thanks
>>Tom Z
>
>There are special stud removing tools.  Sears Craftsman has one and I'm
>sure Snap-on does also.  I goes on a 1/2" drive ratchet or breaker bar and
>uses a seraited cam to grip the stud.  
>
 I tried one of these and was disappointed. In aluminum however you may have
better luck. Or not, if the stud snapped on account of being into the water
jacket and corroded so badly that it -can't- fit back out the hole it came
in.

 A repetitive back-and-forth axial torque (heavy vise grips), heat and some
more Liquid Wrench (or better such as Kroil) may eventually free it. If it's
snapped off flush that's another matter entirely. You'll be wanting it drilled
then, and not by hand - too much chance of the bit wandering off to softer
pastures.If you go over you may need to oversize and then tap and heli-coil
the hole. Not great if it's into the water jacket either. If you are in the
mood to remove the head it might be easier in the end and let you see what
the other end of the stud might be up to.

-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: louise@cc.gatech.edu (Louise Penberthy)
Subject: Re:    91 Nissan Sentra: timing belt or chain?
Reply-To: louise@pravda.cc.gatech.edu (Louise Penberthy) 
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology 
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 22:43:33 GMT

In article <92235.144300J9N@psuvm.psu.edu> Jeffrey J. Nucciarone <J9N@psuvm.psu.edu> writes:
>Does someone in the know out there know if the 1991 Nissan Sentra
>with the 1.6L engine has a timing belt or a timing chain?  
>[....]
>All the dealer would say is bring it in at the required service intervals!
>Figures he'd say that....   thanks again!

A trick I have learned, that I use when the service people won't
give me answers (it can be worse for a woman), is to call the
parts desk.  I ask them about some part I really want, and then I
ask them the question.  They usually know the answer, and they
tell me.

-- Louise Penberthy

Louise Penberthy                |  "Remember:  friendship is sweeter even
College of Computing/ Georgia   |   than love, and a damn sight less
Tech/ Atlanta, GA 30332         |   chancey."
louise@pravda.cc.gatech.edu     |        -- Leonard, "Pajama Tops"
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: wilson@schaefer.math.wisc.edu (Bob Wilson)
Subject: anti-seize on exhaust bolts (was Re: Cleaning spark plugs??)
Reply-To: wilson@math.wisc.edu (Bob Wilson)
Organization: Univ. of Wisconsin Dept. of Mathematics
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 92 20:33:11 GMT

In article <1992Sep1.093057.5463@mr.med.ge.com> hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987) writes:
>I have read that you should never use anti-seize on exhaust bolts, because it
>forms an acid of some sort at high temps.  I don't worry about it, cause I 
>replace all exhaust hardware with stainless (saves LOTS of time down the
>road), has anyone else heard of this high-temp acid forming property of anti-
>seize?
>
>
>--
>
>Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
>SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.
>hinzd@picard.med.ge.com
I've used anti-seize on exhaust bolts on all sorts of cars for years
and never seen this problem, but its dangerous to generalize from one
person's (possibly lucky) experience.

I would consider two classes of exhaust fasteners: Those right at the
head which get very hot and also have to fit threads on the engine,
e.g. on studs, and those further down stream which are a bolt and nut
holding a clamp or a flange.
The bolt/nut combos I always replace with the cheapest bolt and nut
from the hardware store when I replace an exhaust. I don't worry about
"concours" restrictions and so I put in cheap 5/16 bolts where the
original was 8mm (the difference is a few thousandths of an inch in
diameter.) I have never had anything break in use, and when you go to
replace it, either it comes apart nicely or it just breaks in two and
in either case you replace it.
On the ones that have to be the "right" thread because they fit a stud
I do usually put some anti-seeze, but there is another thing to help.
On my Alfas for example the nuts there are supplied as brass: The main
problem making the fasteners stick at these very high temperature
points is that they slowly weld together, and dissimilar metals (brass
on steel, for example) make this much less of a problem. If I had a
car without that supplied, I'd probably copy this idea.
Bob Wilson
wilson@math.wisc.edu
From: v087mxgb@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (Shawn E Thompson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: IROC smokes on start ['vette heads]
Date: 28 Aug 92 17:14:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

>valve guides eventually wear, but not so soon. I hope chevy didn't screw
>up a time perfected design.
> 
>Maybe you can put corvette heads on it.

thats what I did (194 Fuely's) worked great !



Shawn E. Thompson                         | Project Engineer/Mgr  (716)891-3375
v087mxgb@ubvms.cc.buffalo.edu             | Leica, Incorporated
University @ Buffalo                      | PO Box 123
Graduate School of Mechanical Engineering | Buffalo, NY 14240-0123
------------------------------------------+-----------------------------------
"Nothin ever grows in this rotten old hole, and everthing is stunted and lost..
and nothin really rocks n nothin really rolls and nothin's ever worth the cost"
                                                               --- Meatloaf
From: wyl@mahoosuc.NSD.3Com.COM
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Tires for Accord Aspect Ratio 65
Date: 31 Aug 92 23:41:51 GMT


	Does anyone have experience putting 195 65 tires on his
	or her Honda Accord year model either before or after
	1990? Does the wheel wells fit this 195mm tires? Does
	these tires do anything good or bad to the suspension
	and handling?

	I know 195 65 is hard to come by. Maybe I will settle
	with original 185 70. There is a Yokohama 388 or 382(?)
	with H rating and both tread and temperature rate A
	carried at local Costco. Does anyone have experience 
	with this tires?  

	Please mail to me directly alan_wang@3com.com. 

	Thanks

From: borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 20:15:34 GMT
Subject: Can oxygen gauge meter fuel pressure?
Organization: Hewlett Packard Company, Spokane, Wa.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

Well, I know that my question is not (directly) related autos, but it is
only one step away.

I have a high pressure oxygen gauge.  I would like to make a jig for
testing the breakover pressure of diesel fuel injectors on my diesel
Rabbit.  The gauge goes to 4000 psi., and the breakover pressure of
the injectors is to be set to 2400 psi., so everything is fine there.

The question is:  Is there any problem using an oxygen gauge to measure
the pressure of diesel fuel?  Also, on the face of the gauge is  the
statement, "Use no oil."  Does this refer to the gears, pivots, etc.
inside the gauge, that you should not oil it?  Or does it mean that you 
should not use the gauge to meter the pressure of oil (due to material
limitations).


Donald Borowski    WA6OMI    Hewlett-Packard, Spokane Division
"Angels are able to fly because they take themselves so lightly."
                                       -G.K. Chesterton
From:  (Eric Youngblood)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Anybody know how to remove a windshield?
Date: 4 Sep 92 16:28:24 GMT
Reply-To: Peon w/o Email Priv (Eric Youngblood)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Richardson, Tx


I have seen a thin wire used to cut the seal between the winshield and the
frame. Essentially it was a steel wire that was poked through a small gap 
made into the gasket material. The ends where then attached to wooden handles
and the repairman and a helper merely pulled the wire around the perimeter of
the windshield. They then lifted the now "separated" glass from the frame. POC


$0.02
Ericy
From: sab@gnv.ifas.ufl.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re:Windshield whipper
Date: 3 Sep 92 12:43:19 -0500

>From: <QXF1@psuvm.psu.edu>
>Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 15:46:40 EDT
>Organization: Penn State University
>Lines: 6

>I once had problem with the intermittent windshield whipper. Sometimes it
                                                     ^^^^^^^
>worked and occasionally it just stopped in the middle. I went to the dealer and
                                 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>was told the problem was in the motor and about $200 is needed for the
>replacement. Later on I did some fabrication to the intermittent relay
>circuitary and had the problem solved. Anyone who has the same problem and not
 ^^^^^^^^^^
>willing to change the motor are welcome to contact me and share my experience.

Was he/she using a bull-whip or a cat-of-9-tails?  The middle of what?
Or did the whipper just have a problem going in circles?

Lord knows, I can't spell either but I couldn't resist! :-) 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
   Steve Bloom       | "It's easier to find something that isn't
 Soil Science, U.Fla.|  there...when it's not there in large
SAB@GNV.IFAS.UFL.EDU |  quantities"  L.Slobodkin (Woods Hole, 1969)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: wcr@unislc.uucp (William Rankin)
Subject: Re: Windshield chip repair ???
Organization: Unisys Corporation SLC
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 19:37:11 GMT

From article <BtwFIA.7IM@acsu.buffalo.edu>, by bphdarcy@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (SJ Roc D'Arcy, MBP):
> In article <BtvC9n.L93@encore.com>, mpalmer@encore.com (Mike Palmer) writes...
>>Anyone got any comments on the windshield chip repair outfits such as 
>>"Clear Star Windshield saver"?
>> 
>>I actually want it to fix a chip in my 26" TV screen (courtesy of my three
>>year old!).
> 
> All the ones I am familiar with, including the aforementioned, only work
> on multilayer auto or safety glass.  The more expensive kits work very
> well on auto glass, but I can't say about other types.  Let me know how
> it works if you try it.
> 
> SJRD

GET RID OF THE TV. It is an extreme safety hazzard. I have seen picture
tubes implode for no good reason, and any imperfection (chip) in the glass
can make a very good reason. Perhaps the next time your child hits it
will be the last, especially if he hits the same spot again. Don't
forget there is approximately 4700 lbs of air pressure pushing on that
glass (338 sq in * 14 lbs.) A chip in the glass, even at the outer edges,
can cause a "run" and a catastrophic failure. Just the thermal expansion
from the heat/cool cycle can facilitate a failure, and over time the
likelyhood goes up. Your home-owners or renters insurance should cover
the cost of replacement or repair less any deductible. At least have a
TV repair person come and inspect it.  Then consider if you want to trust
the lives of yourself and family to his judgement.
(Sorry, I know this doesn't belong in this news group but I just
couldn't let this one go by.)


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: fagundes@iastate.edu (Alex Fagundes)
Subject: Radial Tires for sale
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames IA
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 04:51:54 GMT

Hi,
  I a friend of mine is trying to sell a set of used/new radial tires. 
The size is 195/75/14.  He is asking $200 for all 4 tires which are almost
new.
  If you are interested call (515)292-0130 and ask for Dave.  Or reply
to this account.
thanx...

*******************************************************************************
*  Alex Fagundes -         Proud owner of a 76 Maverick :) and another        *
*  fagundes@iastate.edu  -          believer that AMIGA rules                 *
*******************************************************************************

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sborders@nyx.cs.du.edu (Scott Borders)
Subject: Mildew odors from ventilation system.
Summary: Moldy/mildewy/musty odors emanating from vents.
Keywords: Mildew odor mold smell ventilation A/C
Organization: University of Denver, Dept. of Math & Comp. Sci.
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 92 05:14:03 GMT


This has also been posted to rec.autos; my apologies to those of
you who have already seen this once.

I have a new (1 month old) '92 Laser.  For the last week or two a
moldy/mildewy odor has been coming from my vents.  The dealership
has been little help, though they have checked the A/C drain  
for clogs and found nothing.  The best they suggest is to use
air freshener in the fresh-air intake.  This would seem to be a
case of treating the symptom rather than the root cause.

One of the rec.autos readers sent me private mail indicating that
he had heard of a product that is sprayed into the ventilation
system that will destroy mold and mildew; unfortunately he could
not recall the name of the product.  Since the dealership seems
clueless here, I was hoping to draw on net.wisdom - has anyone
heard of such a product?  If so, *please* e-mail me with the
info.  I know that if I can give the dealership a product name, I
am much more likely to get results.

I can be reached via e-mail either on this account or at
borders_scott@tandem.com (my work address).  Thanks for any
help you can give . . . 

                          Scott

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: brantley@infonode.ingr.com (Dwight D. Brantley)
Subject: Re: car ramps for Mustangs
Keywords: of interest to Mustang owners
Organization: Intergraph Corporation, Huntsville, AL.
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 13:53:31 GMT

In article <1992Sep1.133009.20188@cbnewsd.cb.att.com> bohdan@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (bohdan.l.bodnar) writes:
>I have a 1986 Mustang which has a very low body + air scoop.  The ramps I
>currently use are too high for this car -- any work done beneath the car has to
>be done with jack stands.  Does anybody know where I can get car ramps that
>
>Bohdan Bodnar
>

Mustangs aren't the only late model car that will give you this problem.
I have solved this problem by "extending" the ramp by placing a six to
eight foot 2X6 (lumber) on the ramp.  This changes the grade of the slope
just enough to eliminate dragging the air dam.  Once the car is positioned
on top of the ramp, just remove the boards (don't forget to put them back
before you back the car off the ramps!).  Please note that this is a poor 
boys solution.

      ******************************************************************
      *   Dwight Brantley    *   Failure Analysis & Reliability Dept.  *
      *  Intergraph, Corp.   *  Reply To: brantley@falab1.b21.ingr.com *
      *   Huntsville, AL     *           Voice: 205-730-4456           *
      ******************************************************************


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dennis@mr2.ece.cmu.edu (Dennis J. Ciplickas)
Subject: MB 240D Oil/Exhaust Questions
Organization: Carnegie Mellon University
Distribution: rec
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 21:02:35 GMT


I have a 75 MB 240D with about 10K miles on a rebuilt engine.  The
cooling system does not seem to leak and there is essentially no oil
consumption.

FIRST QUESTION:
---------------

About four months ago (immediately after an oil change), I noticed
that the oil pressure seemed to be running a bit low.  When I bought
the car, it had 20W-50 oil and had about 20-25psi oil pressure at idle
when the engine was hot.  The MB dealership I partronize here in
Pittsburgh put in 10W-40 at the last oil change, and now the pressure
is about 15psi (or a smidgen below) at idle.  Now, this kinda makes
sense because the 10W oil is thinner than 20W oil when hot, but am
worried because the man from whom I bought the car told me that the
oil pressure at idle should always be at least 20-25 psi.

I've consulted the only shop manual I've got and it says that the
minimum operating oil pressure is "0.6 kp/cm^2".  What the heck does
this mean?  If kp is in fact kilo-pascals, then what's the cm^2 doing
in there?  Isn't a pascal a N/m^2?  If so, then what the heck is a
kN/m^2/cm^2?

Can anyone tell me what acceptable 10W-40 oil pressures are for my
240D in different RPM ranges?  E.g. at idle, with engine revved, at a
certain speed in a certain gear, etc.


SECOND QUESTION:
----------------

More recently, like in the past month or two, the exhaust seems to
contain quite a bit of WHITE smoke.  It's very difficult to see during
the daytime, but I can tell for sure that it's not black and am
*almost* sure that it's not blue (it better not be! :).  At night,
however, I can look in the review mirror and see billowing clouds of
SOMETHING (that looks like smoke) in the wash of the headlights of a
car about 10ft or less behind me.  I was under the impression that
white smoke means water in the combustion.  Could it be that my fuel
is fouled with water?  I haven't ever checked the main fuel filter (or
the pre-filter for that matter) since I've had the car (about 10K
miles), or added any fuel additive.  Could this smoke be steam, or is
there something about water in the combustion process that actually
produces white smoke?  The reason I postulate steam is that I can
hardly see it in the sunlight, but can see it well in a trailing car's
headlights at night.

I would appreciate any wisdom from the net on these matters.

-Dennis Ciplickas
From: jdeifik@isi.edu (Jeff Deifik)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Car batteries for sale and info on electric cars
Date: 28 Aug 92 19:13:15 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: USC-Information Sciences Institute
Summary: expensive for electric cars

A friend of mine has a high performance electric car. The problem is that
as the batteries age, the amp hour rating decreases, which means the range
decreases. He has about 50 very high performance batteries. They weigh very
little, are spillproof, are very vibration resistant, can be mounted in any
orientation, and provide 800 cold cranking amps. They currently are good for
25 amp hours. He will provide a 2 year moneyback or free replacement warranty.
The manufacturer has a 6 year warranty, which is voided for electric car use.
If anyone is interested, please contact me.

The batteries are Optima 800S, group 24, weigh 38 lbs,
top width 9 13/16, bottom width 9 11/16, height 7 13/16, depth 6 1/5 inches.

BTW the car does 0-60 in under 8 sec, has a range of over 100 miles, top speed
around 110 depending on gearing, and was written up in autoweek in june. It
out-performs the GM Impact (my friend did the electronics for the Impact as
well as the Sunnyracer). In a CARB test, it went 130 miles averaging 50.1 mph.

He replaces the batteries about every 4k miles, because his range is reduced
by a factor or 2. If anyone wants a motor and controller, he is selling them
for $40k each. Prices will go down as production ramps up. No solution is in
sight for making high performance batteries cheaper and longer lasting.



--
	Jeff (turbo) Deifik		Internet: jdeifik@isi.edu
Phone:	(310) 822-1511 x241 work	(818) 347-3428 home
Bitnet:	jdeifik%isi.edu@cunyvm.cuny.edu	CSnet:    jdeifik%isi.edu@relay.cs.net
Uucp:	...!{harvard,rutgers,uunet,sun,ucbvax,uiucdcs,talcott}!isi.edu!jdeifik
From: met@naucse.cse.nau.edu (Millam Tackitt)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Cleaning spark plugs??
Date: 1 Sep 92 11:08:33 GMT
Organization: Northern Arizona University, Flagstaff AZ

In article <fagundes.715201152@pv1649.vincent.iastate.edu> fagundes@iastate.edu (Alex Fagundes) writes:
>  Is there a way to clean spark plugs??  My plugs are getting some crap

The proper way to clean spark plugs on a 76 maverik is to liberaly
douse the entire vehicle with gasoline move a respectable distance from
the vehicle and throw lit matches until all problems are removed. :)

Millam, prior owner of 76 maverik, E. Tackitt
From: danapple@vicor.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Handbrakes /discbrakes
Date: 3 Sep 92 18:18:21 GMT


> eur@dutncp2.tn.tudelft.nl (Eur van Andel) writes:
> Dear netters
> 
> After spending some time under my two Alfa's (with inboard rear discs)
> I wondered how the general solution is for braking with the handbrake
> on rear discs.

> How is it done? How do you move the slave cylinder mechanically?

I think there are at least two possible solutions to this problem.  My
1986 Supra with 4 wheel discs uses one.  A friends 1987 300Z with 4
wheel discs uses another.  

The Supra actually has drum brakes built into the rear axle hubs.  The
handbrake mechanically actuates the drum brakes to hold the car on
hills.  I once used the handbrake to stop the car, to see if it would
work, and it did, but needed readjustment afterward.  The little drums
are designed for holding, and stopping *once*.  I don't believe they
have any cool air supply.

The 300Z uses a cable to actuate the rear calipers for the disc
brakes.  Now that I think about it, though, you were asking for
details of this activation, which I don't know.  Sorry.  

Cars like the Supra only have a single piston in the brake caliper
anyway, the it is only the inner pad that ever gets pushed.  The
caliper is floating, however, which means it can move along the axis
of the bolts holding.  So pushing on one pad means the caliper moves,
and the outer pad also contacts this disc.  Are you sure the Alfa is
not set up this way?

Hope you at least find the Supra solution entertaining.  I like it
since it means I have six brakes.

> eur

Daniel I. Applebaum  |  danapple@vicor.com  |  1986 Celica Supra "NVR DNF"
    "When the car is airborne nothing works, the brakes don't work,
     steering doesn't work, the gas pedal doesn't work, nothing works !!"
                            --- Gerry Brinkman "Principles of Rallying" #2
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech