HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: klm41661@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Controller for CDXA-30 Sony Changer Wanted
Date: 19 Nov 92 03:54:25 GMT
Article-I.D.: news.Bxy2up.EyL
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana

Good point.
I have an xr7070 and no changer.  I'd love to get one.

Kevin Molander			klm41661@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: marjam@sage.cc.purdue.edu (Marty Jamrose)
Subject: Sentrek EQ for Sale
Keywords: Eqaulizer
Organization: Purdue University
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 10:56:54 GMT

Check it out everybody.  I have a Sentrek EQ and I want to get rid of it.  
I dont know the model number on it because I am in my room and it is in my
car right now!  But let me describe it - It has the LED's flashing to the 
noise response being inputed.  In other words, if it is turned up, then the
LED's will be up there, if it is turned down, then you probably wont see much
of the LED's.  It is a 7 band EQ with 2 RCA outs and 1 input.  Asking $90. 


				email back to me @   marjam@sage.cc.purdue.edu


					Thank you for whoever responds.
From: v523d85n@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (Robert C Maggio)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: CAR ALARMS!
Date: 20 Nov 92 21:12:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <3712.110.uupcb@cccbbs.UUCP>, rob.runkle@cccbbs.UUCP (Rob Runkle) writes...
>All,
>     False alarms are annoying for everybody, but not every alarm out

>                Later,  Rob Runkle
>                                                                                               


OK lefty...AHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHA HA  HA 

that was definitely a good one.

a quick question and answer and info session:

since we are on the topic, exactly how should one set the alarm sensitivity?
mr Runkle just said that slapping the bumper  wasnt a good enough test.
i know that my car has to be smacked pretty hard in order to set off the alarm.

oh yeah, hey, mr Runkle, did you test that glass breakage sensor by shattering
one of your back windows?  just kidding.  i do wonder how all these people
set their shock sensor sensitivities though.  i used the smack the bumper method
and i mean a good smack.  i also parked it by an air force runway with jets
flying with full afterburners and in a place where trucks go by(in a small town 
while i was on vacation-a safe place)

my personal suggestions:

two shock sensors, one sensor for both front and back is NOT enough.  no
 	sensor can cover the whole car alone

set them independently, i.e. smack both bumpers soundly until the alarm no
	longer triggers.

a glass breakage sensor is another must

ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS?  ideas welcome!
From: walkerr@bigwpi.WPI.EDU (Robert A Walker)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: ohms and watts and such
Date: 17 Nov 1992 03:06:24 GMT
Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute
NNTP-Posting-Host: bigwpi.wpi.edu



	I have another stupid question, ahh but there are no stupid questions,
just stupid answers.  OK if i have an amp that puts out 60 watts a channel
and i run one channel to a dual voice coil sub with 8 ohms resiatance per
coil, and i run these in parelell.  Is the total output 60 watts, oh yeah
if the 60 watts is at 8 ohms.  What does my total resistance become.  I've
noticed that onthe specs of some amps that they put out 100 watts at 8 ohms
200 at 4 400 at 2 and so on, do all amps follow this pattern?  If my amp
can handle only a four ohm load, how should i connect a dual voice coil
sub with 8 ohms per coil?  I presently have them in parellel and they
sound good, putting the two coils on each channel in series would give 16
ohms and would sound lousy, or at least quieter.  Am I hopelessly lost or
am i on the right track?
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: sbourgeo@pinocchio.Berkeley.EDU (Stephen Bourgeois)
Subject: Re: Do those CD players skip? Are they any good?
Reply-To: sbourgeo@pinocchio.Berkeley.EDU (Stephen Bourgeois)
Organization: Encore Computer Corporation
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 20:56:06 GMT

In article <1ee5kaINNiik@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>, mxl38@po.CWRU.Edu (Michel
Labrousse) writes:
> 
> I'd like to get one of these in-dash CD players but I've read on this
newsgroup
> that some of you had troubles with CDs skipping. My car is a Honda Civic 1992
> and I was wondering if any of you knew about those:
> Sony CDX-5180
> Kenwood KDC 85 R
> Pioneer DEH 680, DEH 880, DEH 980
> 
> I don't need the specifications, I've got them. I'm more interested in
the kind
> of problems you may have had or heard about (skipping for instance). 
>

I have a Pioneer DEH 780???  (Removeable faceplate/no remote) in my pickup.
The only time it skips is when I go over a VERY large pothole or something.
It does get hot after using it a while.  I think it melted part of my
cd when I left it in the player and went to vote.  I just take the
disks out when they're not spinning and have had no other problems...
From: v523d85n@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (Robert C Maggio)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Alarm for carjacking
Date: 18 Nov 92 15:48:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <1687@rwja.umdnj.edu>, holowczk@rwja.umdnj.edu (Richard Holowczak) writes...
> 
>>>Does anyone has any suggestion for any addons to your existing alarm system
>>>to take care of the now getting popular carjacking problem?
> 
>>	I forgot one more method, but the individual has to decide how '
>>brave/stupid' they are.
>>	If you are at an intersection, it's called flooring it. Most car 
>>theives do not want to kill someone, and they may hesistate on firing. A
>>car theft is now common, and for the most part, loosely investigated. But, 
>>a murder brings more attention. However, it's a risk one must take. Nothing 
>>is certain.
> 
i would have to disagree with this, when a thief jacks your car, he is probobly
wired on adrenalin (if nothing else) and the last thing on his mind is your
safety.  hes not worried about shooting you because he knows that the only
way he will get caught is if he is in the actual act of stealing the car and 
getting away, thats why he brings a gun, to make sure you get out.  time is
of the essence.

pride is also a factor.  someone with enough balls to come up to you with a 
gun is more likely to shoot you first and then take your money.  the carjacker
who does not shoot you first but tells you to get out has just given you
your chance of escape, so get the hell out, and give him anything else
he wants, be it rolex, wallet, pants, etc.

any sudden moves, like a car moving, could very likely make the thief jump
just enough so he pulls the trigger, and since he knows that you are the 
prime witness, he'll probobly make sure you will never testify in court, get
it?
From: keys@starchild.ncsl.nist.gov (Lawrence B. Keys)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Buying a crossover, how to choose?
Date: 18 Nov 92 20:41:05 GMT
Organization: National Institute of Standards & Technology


I know that i need a crossover.  I have a basic understanding of
what crossovers do, but i am not sure how to determine what kind of
crossover i need, for my application.  So, tell me what to buy!

My head unit has four RCA outputs.
I have one 4 channel amp, and a 2 channel which will be bridged to
1 channel.  I have two sets of components.  A set for the front, and
a set for the rear.  Each has a pair of passive crossovers, however, the
crossover only "serves" the tweeter (the mid driver operates full range).
I have a single dual voice coil sub in a ported enclosure.

I would like to limit the frequencies channeled to each of the mid bass
drivers.  I would like to limit the frequencies channeled to the sub.

I am interested in a unit which can be trunk mounted. I would like to
retain the ability to fade from front to rear.

Basically, i want a good quality active crossover, but i don't want to 
buy more than is necessary.

	-	What kind of crossover do i need? 
	-	2 way, 3 way?
	-	which is better 6db,12db,18db or 24db/octave?
	-	continously variable, plug-in modules?

I've looked at an Audio Control 2XS $115, 4XS $199, and PPI FRX 322 $250.
For some reason that i don't understand there seems to be many more 2 way
crossovers available than 3 way, even in the higher price range.


E-mail or post.

Thanks,

Larry
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car,misc.forsale
From: ja51359@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (axelrod)
Subject: Re: Alpine amp and remote control forsale
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 20:23:38 GMT

ja51359@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (axelrod) writes:


>I have a 3543: 2x100 or 1x300, $250.

I actually have two of them by the way.
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: ldormon
Subject: JBL 1500GTi's
Reply-To: ldormon@uk.oracle.com
Organization: Oracle Corp
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 14:26:07 GMT
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by an unauthenticated user
              at Oracle Corporation.  The opinions expressed are those
              of the user and not necessarily those of Oracle.

Hello all
	Could anyone with any info on the JBL 1500GTi's please forward it to me.
I've just managed to get hold of a pair second hand.

I'm prepared to use my whole boot (trunk) to locate the box about 14^3'.
I'd like 
to be able to go as low as possible but I'm not to worried about massive SPL.

Would I be better of going isobarik (sp?) or just a normal bass reflex
enclosure,
has anyone got any dimensions, port sizes etc.

Any help greatly appreciated, just e-mail or post.

Many thanks

Lee

ldormon@uk.oracle.com
From: mxl38@po.CWRU.Edu (Michel Labrousse)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Do those CD players skip? Are they any good?
Date: 18 Nov 1992 19:30:18 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: mxl38@po.CWRU.Edu (Michel Labrousse)
NNTP-Posting-Host: thor.ins.cwru.edu


I'd like to get one of these in-dash CD players but I've read on this newsgroup
that some of you had troubles with CDs skipping. My car is a Honda Civic 1992
and I was wondering if any of you knew about those:
Sony CDX-5180
Kenwood KDC 85 R
Pioneer DEH 680, DEH 880, DEH 980

I don't need the specifications, I've got them. I'm more interested in the kind
of problems you may have had or heard about (skipping for instance). 
Thanks a lot in advance!

Michel
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: chenh@neptune.ecs.csus.edu (H. Philip Chen)
Subject: What's AutoTalk??
Organization: California State University, Sacramento
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 92 04:19:52 GMT


Hi, I recently saw a product called AutoTalk.  (Relax, it's not
a talking car alarm!)  It has a numeric keypad, plus a few other
buttons such as TV, Weather & Emergency.  (I hope I got those 
3 items correct; and maybe there's another one).  Probably got
a box (all the electronics) hidden elsewhere too.  Can netters 
tell me more about this product?  (eg. all the features, reception 
quality, number of ~stations, how does it connect to the stereo, 
and etc...) BTW, what's the "Emergency" (if I remember it correctly) 
channel about?  (Highway patrol, local police or just the fire 
station or ??)  Any info/experience will be appreciated.  Thanks 
in advance!


-phil (I'm just curious)

ps.  I saw it down at the Good Guys (~$130, +-10)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: pneumann@watkin3.uwaterloo.ca (Patrick Neumann)
Subject: Looking for upgrade advice.
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 01:02:19 GMT


Hello People 

I need some nuts and bolts car audio advice.
I have recently purchased a '90 Honda Civic Hatchback 
(and am in go-kart heaven :)
and am looking for a modest system which will give clean, tight sound
to a variety of music (Blues, Jazz, Rock)

Right Now I have:

Alpine 7502 (winner of the least awful interface award)
Pioneer 6.5" 3-way (in the doors)
Pioneer 5"x7" 2-way (on the rear tray; got these used)

My problems are:
1. When I turn up the volume on the highway I start to run into harsh
   highs and Mids.

2. The bass is pretty muddy (OK on drums, mush on acoustic or electric bass)

Now the first problem sounds like I'm pushing the amp a bit too
hard.  My question then is how big an amp should I get? 
Should I use it to drive all four speakers or just two or what?
and What type of amp would you recomend? (I hear good things about Alpine)
I am not above buying used equipment but I wouldn't know a good
deal if it hit me in the face so any info on prices & features would be
appreciated.

Secondly, will the amp improve bass response? or are my 5x7s doomed
to give yucky sound?  (If this is the case my upgrade would
have to be a two stage afaire :(  What else could I do here-
I don't really have room for a sub and am not even sure I could
squeeze in 6x9's, although I could be convinced.... 

As usual I am broke, and technologically challenged (ie I *don't* do
my own installs), I can afford about $250 at a time on upgrades and
am looking to see where my money should go first (and second).  

Thanks in advance for any, and all advice!

-P.

Patrick Neumann
Occupational Biomechanics Lab
pneumann@watkin2.uwaterloo.ca


A fresh .sig each and every day.  
v_______O  live to sleep.

Xref: sparky rec.audio.car:4922 alt.locksmithing:2017 alt.tasteless:12663
From: gmh@cloud.awd.cdc.com (Gregory M. Heideman)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car,alt.locksmithing,alt.tasteless
Subject: Re: Car alarms
Date: 17 Nov 92 17:09:50 GMT
Followup-To: rec.audio.car
Organization: Automated Wagering Intl.

In article <1992Nov16.205000.18486@wam.umd.edu>, psionic@wam.umd.edu (Sixth Plane of Hell) writes:
[ stuff deleted ... ]
|> Now for my last 2 cents before this subject dies.

It can't die soon enough for me.  All this stuff is boring.

Cheap, poorly installed (junk) alarms give _MANY_ more falses than good, well
installed alarms.  The world is full of cheapskates.  'nuf said!

-Greg
--
gmh@awd.cdc.com              |  "Hey look, over there!
Greg Heideman                |   It's Frank Sinatra, sitting in a chair,
Automated Wagering Int.      |   And he's blowing perfect smoke rings
                             |   Up into the air!" -Laurie Anderson
From: jeh@cmkrnl.com
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Installing 2 head units
Date: 15 Nov 92 11:27:27 PST
Organization: Kernel Mode Consulting, San Diego, CA

In article <6701@ucsbcsl.ucsb.edu>, darren@papaya.ucsb.edu 
(Darren Tokushige,,CS major,COMS,Undergrad) writes:
> I myself own a Celica (85') and want to warn you about installing two
> head units.  If you measure carefully, there is probably enough width
> and height in the double din cavity for 2 head units,

There certainly is, since the original factory radio/cassette setup had two
separate ISO-mounted units, one the radio and the other the cassette player. 
(This made for lots of fun for experimenters.  The "interface" between the two
was, god forbid, a standard 5-pin DIN connector.  A couple of extra connectors,
a switch, and a pair of phono jacks, and presto! you have line-in jacks for the
amps, suitable for the line-level out from a portable CD player.)

>  but I doubt that it is deep enough.  [...]

This is a very valid concern.  But I believe that it depends on the model year
of the car, and possibly the type of A/C ordered with the car. 

My 82 Celica had ample depth for ISO-mount radios.  My "new" car, an 84 Supra
(what can I say, I like the body style better than anything made now), has a
lot less depth.  The difference is, as you say, in the air-conditioning ducts. 
The Supra (and possibly your 85 Celica, I don't know) has a completely
different A/C system from the 82 C.; one difference is that the later system
has an automatic temperature control option, like like a thermostat in a house.

There *is* enough depth for the Sony CD decks I mentioned, but only if you take
the power amp module off the back of the unit and mount it nearby (very easy to
do). 

> Before you buy that cd player, make sure it will fit.  Even if you sacrifice
> your lower heating ducts, it still might be an impossible squeeze...
> Good Luck.

The right answer here is to get the unit on a returnable-with-no-questions-
asked basis, and don't clip ANY wires until you've tried mounting it.  
Fortunately lots of places are offering this deal these days.  

	--- Jamie Hanrahan, Kernel Mode Consulting, San Diego CA
Internet:  jeh@cmkrnl.com, hanrahan@eisner.decus.org, or jeh@crash.cts.com
Uucp:  ...{crash,eisner,uunet}!cmkrnl!jeh
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car,alt.locksmithing,alt.tasteless
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: Car alarms
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 00:59:23 GMT

psionic@wam.umd.edu (Sixth Plane of Hell) writes:
: 
: Ok well if the alarm is annoying you I suggest you get a small pair of
: tree pruners and place them in your hand. 
: 
: Second you approach the offending vehicle and crawl underneath with the 
: pruners. 
: 
: Third take said pruners and cut the positive line on the battery cable.
: 
: The alarm should now be silent.

I have always felt that, since they did not provide a method for helpful
people to shut off the alarm when it falses, then the people have to
provide their own ways. I always felt a wrecking bar to open the hood
worked very well. Then you can get at the defective alarm and disable
it.

Bill
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: wix@eskimo.com (Dennis Wicks)
Subject: Re: Car alarms
Summary: Please Kill It
Organization: >>> Eskimo North (206)-FOR-EVER <<<
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 04:13:45 GMT

In article <49700@shamash.cdc.com> gmh@cloud.awd.cdc.com (Gregory M. Heideman) writes:
>In article <1992Nov16.205000.18486@wam.umd.edu>, psionic@wam.umd.edu (Sixth Plane of Hell) writes:
>[ stuff deleted ... ]
>|> Now for my last 2 cents before this subject dies.
>
>It can't die soon enough for me.  All this stuff is boring.
>
>Cheap, poorly installed (junk) alarms give _MANY_ more falses than good, well
>installed alarms.  The world is full of cheapskates.  'nuf said!
>

Yes, lets drop this thread.  It has been talked to death with no
real information being given.

Thanks.
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car,alt.locksmithing,alt.tasteless
From: alex@research.canon.oz.au (Alex Danilo)
Subject: Re: Car alarms
Organization: Canon Information Systems Research Australia
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 06:02:58 GMT

>In article <1992Nov16.052253.6048@u.washington.edu> miolnir@stein.u.washington.
edu (Scot Thorstad) writes:
>
>  Anyone have any particularly nasty things to do to the bastards
>whose car alarms start screaming a 1:00 am and never shut up?
>(I expect something good from you a.t people)
>scot
>
Try mixing up an ice cream container of two part blow foam, and pouring it down
the bonnet gaps into the engine bay where the alarm lives. You'll get great
amusement as the alarm muffles, ... Might be hard to start the car next morning
too:-)
From: bell@hops.larc.nasa.gov (John Bell)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Decreasing Volume in Sub-box
Date: 17 Nov 1992 14:37:24 GMT
Organization: /etc/organization
NNTP-Posting-Host: hops.larc.nasa.gov

In article <6936@dove.nist.gov> keys@starchild.ncsl.nist.gov (Lawrence B. Keys) writes:
>
> (...)
>
>Anyway, my question is, how can i reduce box volume without building
>a new box, and without making the box any heavier?  Would blocks of 
>foam of the proper volume do the trick?`
>

Foam won't do the trick at all - in fact it will make the apparent volume of
the enclosure larger! The only way (that I know of) to reduce the volume of
the enclosure without rebuilding it is to put in something solid to take up
space. Probably the easiest thing would be to just put in a piece of wood like
this:

 +-----------------+
 |                 |
 |                 |
 |                 |
 |                 |
 +-----------------+ <-- new piece of wood goes here, parallel with bottom of
 |                 |     the box
 |                 |
 +-----------------+

 (front view of box)

Apologies for the poor graphics! Make sure that the piece of wood is just as
thick as the original walls of the box.

On the other hand, you might not really need to shrink to volume of the box.
Your problem is compounded by the fact that the port size and length is
calculated based on a specific (and exact) box volume. By changing the box
volume, you ruined the port tuning. What I would try first is recalculating
the port dimensions for the larger box. If you don't have access to a program
to do this with, you can e-mail me the specs for your woofer and I would be 
happy to run it through Perfect Box for you. You should find that the proper
size port will make a huge difference.

The biggest disadvantage you will have then is that you may not be getting
optimum performance out of your subwoofer in terms of bass extension and 
power handling. Again, a box modeling program like Perfect Box can tell just
what you are losing, so you can decide if it's worth it to change the box 
volume.

-----
John Bell
NASA Langley Research Center
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: trw@spl1.spl.loral.com (Tim R Witort)
Subject: Re: Andrew Gilchrist
Organization: Loral Software Productivity Laboratory
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 18:04:15 GMT

In article <gilchr.721954498@ee.ualberta.ca>, gilchr@ee.ualberta.ca (Andrew Gilchrist) writes:
|> rslau@usc.edu (Robert Lau) writes:
|> >Sigh, another username added to my kill list.
|> 
|> [.. offensive, and highly inappropriate sedition deleted]
|> >Is this guy trying to be another Roger Carasso?
|> 
|> Oh, of course.  It is my life long dream.  Who the hell is Roger Carasso?
|> 
|> Well, since good old RSLAU is no longer reading anything from me, I had to
|> flame him vi E-mail.
|> 
|> To everyone who feels the same way, I'm sorry for interjecting some facts
|> into this group.  I had no idea Robert et al wanted everyone to go on
|> babbling and misleading each-other until doomsday.
|> 
|> So sue me.

   If you want to correct errors and tell us the facts, you are
definitely encouraged and thanked for it.  If you are consistently
rude and condescending in your posts, however, don't be surprised
if fewer and fewer people read and believe your posts.  Your style
of posting is rather counterproductive and alienating.  Who wants
to make any kind of post if, instead of being politely corrected,
they are called idiots when they misunderstand something?  That
sort of posting kills communication.  I appreciate your recent
insights on the use of capacitors, but a little more kindness 
would go a long way.

-- Tim