HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jnissen@austin.ibm.com ()
Subject: Re: Mopar 360 V-8 question
Originator: jnissen@jnissen.austin.ibm.com
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 20:27:56 GMT
Organization: IBM Austin Advanced Workstation Division


In article <1992Dec21.170131.23484@samba.oit.unc.edu>, Harry.Johnson@launchpad.unc.edu (Harry Johnson) writes:
> On a more general front, what is the best speed at which to run an engine
> so that it lasts the longest possible?  50% of redline?  Idle?  By lasting
> the longest, I don't mean time-wise but rather number of rotations of
> crankshaft before some sort of rod/crank/valvetrain failure.  (If running
> my engine at higher speeds causes it to fail after 10^8 rotations rather
> than 10^9 at some lower speed, I would rather run it at the lower speed
> since I could drive farther, albeit slower, at the lower speed.  However,
> if the reverse were true, I'd really be a dope to drive slower while
> wearing out my engine faster.)
> 
> Harry
> --
>    The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the University of
>      North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Campus Office for Information
>         Technology, or the Experimental Bulletin Board Service.
>            internet:  laUNChpad.unc.edu or 152.2.22.80

Dont worry about it and drive the speed limit you are supposed to.  
If you absolutely must know, the slower running the engine the longer it will 	
last.  If the vehicle is geared correctly it doesn't necessarily mean it is
traveling slower.  
-- 
 _/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/
 _/      Jim Nissen                jnissen@jnissen.austin.ibm.com  _/
 _/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/
From: eli@cisco.com (Steve Elias)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Oxygenated Gasoline and Low MPG (super unleaded?)
Date: 3 Jan 93 20:11:23
Organization: cisco Systems
NNTP-Posting-Host: regal.cisco.com
In-reply-to: wlsmith@valve.heart.rri.uwo.ca's message of Mon, 4 Jan 1993 03:11:45 GMT


both of my honda civics gas mileage dropped by 15% or so
with this oxy gas.  power seems to have dropped by at least
15% on the 91 civic hatchback (70 hp rating).

i know that a properly tuned designed-for-87-octane engine without
knock sensor should not benefit from super unleaded.
but as an experiment i am running super unleaded in both hondas now.
on the 91 hatchback, there is a noticable power increase with 
the super oxy as opposed to the normal 87 octane oxy fuel.  
is this the placebo effect?  has anyone out there tried this?

/eli
From: tat@voodoo.boeing.com (Tim Tallar)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: 90 Justy Fuel Filter Replacement Problem
Date: 21 Dec 92 21:56:29 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Boeing Graphics project, Bellevue WA

Has anyone had experience in changing the fuel filter in a 1990 Subaru
Justy, with a carb?  The manual has a diagram showing it by the fuel
filler,(inside the left rear interior side panel), but in the
documentation, it says it is in the engine compartment.
The manual also says that it is under pressure, and should only be changed
by the dealer.  I have searched all over the engine compartment, and briefly
behind the interior panel where the fuel filler is located.  Does anyone
know where the fuel filter is located?  BTW I have a Fram filter, the one that
was listed in their catalog as the replacement.    



Thanks in advance.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kevins@eng.auburn.edu (Kevin Sullivan)
Subject: Voyager 60K Maintenance
Organization: Auburn University Engineering
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1992 15:29:00 GMT

So my '89 Voyager minivan hits 60K miles and this MAINT REQD light 
on the dash comes on and I think maybe it should have dollar signs. :-)

Anyway I check the owners' manual, the Chilton's book, and the dealer's 
service dept to see what needs to be done, and they all disagree. :-(

So what do I need to do?  I don't have the "real" shop manual, just the 
Chilton's book, which I think sucks in many ways.

Also is there any way to reset the MAINT REQD light without a DRB and 
without paying the dealer $18 or $36?

Thank ya,
Kevin Sullivan
From: smclane@wdl1.wdl.loral.com (Sterling McLane)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Strange Behavior
Date: 21 Dec 92 22:35:28 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Organization: Loral Western Development Labs

Today I witnessed something strange I was wondering if anyone might have a
clue as to what caused it.  I was behind an early '80s Capri (Mustang
based) and when it started away from the stopsign, the rear end seemed to
wiggle a bit and shift about 4 inches to the left.  Edge of left rear tire
was beyond bodywork, right rear tire moved toward center of car. The body
of the car seemed to be going down the road straight - not dog-tracking. 
When the car got up to speed and stopped accelerating, rear end moved back
over to where it was centered relative to the body.  Clearly something was
wrong.  Anyone out there have any idea what it could be?
From: tt300zx@milton.u.washington.edu (twin turbo 300zx)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Slick 50
Date: 31 Dec 1992 07:59:24 GMT
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Distribution: na
NNTP-Posting-Host: milton.u.washington.edu

>tt300zx@milton.u.washington.edu (twin turbo 300zx) writes:
>
>>     ZZZZZZZZ ZZZZZZZZ  ZZZZ    ZZZZ   ZZZZZ                
>>    ZZZZZZZZ ZZZZZZZZ ZZZ ZZ   ZZ ZZ  ZZ  ZZ                
>>       ZZ       ZZ    ZZ  ZZ  ZZ  ZZ  ZZ ZZ                 
>>      ZZ       ZZ        ZZ  ZZ   ZZ ZZ  ZZ ZZZZZZ ZZ   ZZ  
>>      ZZ       ZZ      ZZ   ZZZ  ZZ ZZ   ZZ     ZZ  Z  Z    
>>     ZZ       ZZ       ZZZ  ZZ   ZZ ZZ  ZZ     ZZ   Z Z     
>>     ZZ       ZZ        ZZ ZZ   ZZ ZZ   ZZ   ZZ     ZZ      
>>    ZZ       ZZ         ZZ ZZ   ZZ ZZ  ZZ   ZZ     ZZZ      
>>    ZZ       ZZ    ZZ  ZZ ZZ   ZZ ZZ   ZZ  ZZ     ZZZZ      
>>   ZZ       ZZ     ZZ ZZ  ZZ  ZZ  ZZ  ZZ ZZ      ZZ ZZ      
>>   ZZ       ZZ     ZZZZ   ZZZZZ   ZZZZZ  ZZZZZZ ZZ  ZZ      
>>   ZZ       ZZ      ZZ     ZZZ     ZZZ   ZZZZZZ ZZ  ZZ      
>
>Please lose the obnoxious signature. We get the point.
>
>	-Kenny
				thank u :) /tt300zx
From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Chrysler Mopar grease
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1992 21:56:02 -0500

 LF> I need to know whether Multi-Purpose or Multi-Mileage greases are the 
 LF> same
 LF> and what is NLGI Grade 2 EP. What is the after market grease 
 LF> equivalent?

I recommend you call the Mobil oil engineering dept. at 800 662-4525 and ask for
Fred Ondarta. I'm sure he can help you.



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rajagopa@sdf.lonestar.org (Hari Rajagopal)
Subject: Help needed on volvo starting problem
Organization: sdf full-shell Public Access Unix - Dallas, TX - 214/436-3281
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1992 01:06:42 GMT

 

Hi ,
	I have a strange problem with my 1980 Volvo DL, The sequence
of events is as follows:

	Over a few weeks I have noticed the dash lights flicker at
	random, intermittently and then disappear, this I attributed
	to loose wiring harness etc:-

	Three days ago it was wet and cold (Dallas) and the car got a 
	soaking to the bone!! Then the problems started:-

	The engine cut out after driving 2 mi in the morning and had to
	be jump started. However it just needed a touch from the jumper
	cables to start (1 second or so). 

	I drove 20 mi to school and parked. All well in the evening when
	I started and THEN suddenly the engine died after 1-2 mi.

	Again jumped but then the following has been reccurring:
		a)	needs just a touch of the cable clips to start
		b)	Dies as soon (30 sec) of jumper removal
	I also had the battery recharged and the engine started on the
	first turn and drove beautifully for 20 mi. Then I parked it
	overnight. Morning (cold) started fine drove 2 mi then same
	problems started again. Since then I have just kept it garaged.

Any advice, ???
	My guess is there is something wrong with the earthing , or maybe 
	the alternator is not taking over when the engine starts, but the
	drivebelt seems fine (havent checked alternator o/p yet) can
	someone give me some pointers??
			Thanks in advance.

						Hari Rajagopal//

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: zintel@mdd.comm.mot.com (Mike Zintel)
Subject: Madness due to carb backfire
Organization: Motorola, Mobile Data Division - Seattle, WA
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 05:59:58 GMT

I have a 78 International Scout II with a 345 V8, Holly 2010 carb, and 
Prestolite distributor that backfires through the carb when hot. This is a
problem that goes away for a while but always returns. Do far I have:

	Rebuilt the heads - compression is OK.
	Replaced ALL vacuum hoses - 22" and steady at idle.
	Replaced the distributor, wires, coil, and plugs.
	Rebuilt the carb twice.
	Tried 10 BTDC, 5 BTDC (correct) and TDC timing.
	Paid a mechanic to replace the electronic control module in the
	new distributor. This seemed to work for three weeks but it could
	be a coincidence.

The result of this is a beautifully working engine except for this !@#~$%^&*
carb pop. I am running out of ideas (and money). Any suggestions would be
appreciated.



-- 

Mike Zintel		zintel@mdd.comm.mot.com
Motorola Mobile Data
Bothell, WA
From: scott@psy.uwa.oz.au (Scott Fisher)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Exhaust Moisture
Date: 23 Dec 1992 06:30:36 GMT
Organization: The University of Western Australia
NNTP-Posting-Host: wapsy.psy.uwa.oz.au

spatton@lamar.ColoState.EDU (Samuel Patton) writes:

>I have a 78 Trans Am with a pontiac 400 and Borg Warner T-10 four speed
>installed.

>Lately I have noticed that on the drivers side exhaust ( its dual exhaust )
>alot of water vapor comes out of the tailpipe while noe is coming out of
>the exhaust from the other head...
>What could be causing this??? Is my head gasket going bad and leaking coolant
>into the combustion chamber?

Could be...I drive a Jaguar XJ6 4.2 and these as you know have twin pipes 
sticking out the L and R sides...well if you trace the exhaust system back
to the engine you discover that just after the manifold the exhaust is a
mono system that splits into a twin somewhere around the middle of the car.
Now why this is interesting to you is that one day I noticed heaps of water
vapour coming out of the RH pipe and none out of the LH pipe????? Weird...
I put the car on ramps and notice the RH rear muffler has a hole (normal for
Jags :-) Apparently the hole was the cause of the symptom...once the 
muffler was fixed the vapour (when cold) went away.

>I have noticed that the operating temp. has been running higher than normal
>and went and bought a thermostat today but didn't yet put it in.
>( normal op. temp. =180F, running at about 210-220F after driving for a while
>  which really concerns me... )

This is a symptom that adds weight to a head-gasket problem...look closely at
your oil for signs of water and your water for signs of oil.  A leak-down
test at a reputable place will be cheap and tell you what the problem is.

>Any and all help will be appreciated...
>My plans for tomorrow are to install the new thermostat and then make sure
>that the coolant is full to the proper amount.  If it then starts to do this
>fadetoward a higher temp. as I drive it for a while... What does that indicate?
>God, I really don't want to replace a head gasket!
>Sam

Well you may have to...the head gasket in your V8 should not be too much
of a problem to do if it is bung...try the DOHC 4.2 XK Jag engine and then you 
will know all about chaging head gaskets :-) 

Regards Scott.
_______________________________________________________________________________
Scott Fisher [scott@psy.uwa.oz.au]  PH: Aus [61] Perth (09) Local (380 3272).                
                                                             _--_|\       N
Department of Psychology                                    /      \    W + E
University of Western Australia.      Perth [32S, 116E]-->  *_.--._/      S
Nedlands, 6009.  PERTH, W.A.                                      v       

    *** ERROR 144 - REBOOT? is a registered trademark of ENSONIQ Corp ***
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: wesf@boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii)
Subject: Re: what does 4x4 mean?
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 19:09:54 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

"mike knox" (mike.knox@canrem.com) wrote:
:  
: In Message-ID: <1992Dec18.185118.452#nosc.mil>,
: koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz) writes:
:  
: >>I hope this is not a stupid question, but I have been wondering exactly
: >>where the term 4x4 (four by four) came from.
:  
: >so -- 'A'x'B' is interpreted as:  'A'-total-wheels with 'B'-wheels-powered.
: >and as alluded to above, the designation has military origins.
:  
: I had wondered if that might be it, but it could have been 4-speed or
: 4-barrel or anything else with a '4' in it!

You are getting confused with Oldsmobile's 4-4-2 which was:

     4 barrel carb, 4 speed tranny and 2 (dual) exhausts.

     then it was revised a few years later to:

     4 (400) cu in engine, 4 barrel and 2 (dual) exhausts.

Then the energy crisis hit in the early '70s and 4-4-2 was nothing more
than just a name.  Most had only the 4 barrel carb, some had 400's or 
455's and after '74 none had dual exhausts.  Sad...

That's like the 98's used to be on a 90 series (large) frame, and they
had 8 cylinder engines.  How many 98's of today fit that description?

Wes Fujii
________________________________________________________________
      ___   ___ ___ 
     /  /  /  //  /
    /  /__/  //  /    A real motor is an Oldsmobile Rocket 455
   /  HURST //  /     "This is NOT the new generation of Olds"
  /  /  /  //  /_______ 
 /__/  /__//  //  ___  \
          /  //  /   \  \       Wes "BANZAI" Fujii
         /  //  /OLDS/  /          Boise, Idaho
        /  / \  \___/  /      wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com
       /__/   \_______/ 

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bqueiser@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Brian J Queiser)
Subject: Re: 3rd party source for 1981 Accord head bolts?
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1992 15:12:14 GMT

chucko@kronos.arc.nasa.gov (Chuck Fry) writes:

>Generally speaking, OEM cylinder head bolts are going to be pretty
>damned strong.  You sure won't find cheap metal used here.  Because of
>the stresses involved, many manufacturers now recommend using head
>bolts only once.

This is usually do to the fact that the bolts are often designed
to *stretch* during/after they've be properly torqued.  Can't
reuse them because they're not the same anymore.

>Definitely spend some money on the right sized socket from a good tool
>maker.  Craftsman is the minimum acceptable quality level, and Snap-On
>might not be out of line.

Ditto.  I wouldn't say that Crasfman tools are the minimum quality, though;
maybe Stanley or somebody else.  Snap-On tools are pieces of art if you ask 
me; realize that I'm into contact mechanics and all that other engineering 
mechanics good stuff.  I buy Craftsman for now; Snap-On might come later
after I get a job.

Regards,

Brian

bqueiser@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu
------------------------------------------------------------------------
I am the engineer, I can choose K.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Department of Engineering Mechanics
Ohio State University
Columbus, OH
From: murthy+@EDRC.CMU.EDU (Sesh Murthy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Buick Century now has power!!
Date: 30 Dec 92 17:43:06 GMT
Article-I.D.: cs.C032Jv.8os.2
Organization: Carnegie Mellon University


|> >had no carbon on it at 100,000 miles.)   Why did my car have all
|> >this carbon anyway?  (it has 104000 miles.)
|>      Now that you like the way it runs do yourself a favor. Get yourself a
|>     Ware Vapor Injection System. They are very inexpensive.  They will keep 
|>     carbon build up from happening again. They advertise better mileage more
|>     power and all that too but the only real advantage I can see is keeping
|> the cobustion chambers clean enough to eat out of.>
So what is this vapor injection system and has anyone tried it.  For all
I know it might be the equivalent of slick 50.  

I am still curious to know why the carbon builds up in the combustion
chambers of only some cars.  Is it the design of the car or the drivers
driving habits.

Thanks
Sesh Murthy
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sreit@ctp.com (Stefan Reitshamer)
Subject: Re: Water Vapor
Organization: Cambridge Technology Partners
Distribution: ctp
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1992 18:57:33 GMT

In article <VBREAULT.92Dec23103727@rinhp750.gmr.com>, vbreault@rinhp750.gmr.com (Val Breault) writes:
|> In article <79550005@teecs.UUCP> to@teecs.UUCP (Norman To) writes:
|> 
|>    White smoke comes out of the tail pipe evey time I start up
|>    my car in a cold morning.  I've been hearing this is the
|>    vapor of water which condense at the engine over night.
|>    Are there any explanation for this?
|> 
|> Water vapor is a normal byproduct of combustion.  When the air 
|> is cool enough, you can watch it condense as it comes out of
|> the tail pipe.  This is a very normal thing up here in the 
|> frozen northland.
|> --
|> -val-

Is the substance coming from the tailpipe SMOKE or STEAM? Steam is normal --
water condenses in the engine after shutdown, causing excess steam in the
exhaust during warmup.
Smoke, on the other hand, is due to combustion of anti-freeze. It could be
that the car has a small gasket leak causing a buildup of anti-freeze which
combusts during startup, although not causing enough smoke to be noticable
after startup.
-- 
``````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````
Stefan Reitshamer      sreit@ctp.com       Cambridge Technology Partners, Inc.
     Opinions expressed herein belong to no one at all (just to be safe).
``````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````
From: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Madness due to carb backf
Date: 29 Dec 92 20:21:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Ye Olde Bailey BBS - Houston, TX - 713-520-1569
Reply-To: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 


  >>>Sender: news@mdd.comm.mot.com >>>Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 05:59:58
  GMT

MZ>>>I have a 78 International Scout II with a 345 V8, Holly 2010 carb, and
  >>>Prestolite distributor that backfires through the carb when hot. This is a
  >>>problem that goes away for a while but always returns. Do far I have:

MZ>>>        Rebuilt the heads - compression is OK.
  >>>        Replaced ALL vacuum hoses - 22" and steady at idle.
  >>>        Replaced the distributor, wires, coil, and plugs.
  >>>        Rebuilt the carb twice.
  >>>        Tried 10 BTDC, 5 BTDC (correct) and TDC timing.
  >>>        Paid a mechanic to replace the electronic control module in the
  >>>        new distributor. This seemed to work for three weeks but it could
  >>>        be a coincidence.

MZ>>>The result of this is a beautifully working engine except for this !@#~$%^
  >>>carb pop. I am running out of ideas (and money). Any suggestions would be
  >>>appreciated.

Sticking lifter or lifter that stays too pumped up? next would be air
injection or decel valve...
                                       Don


 * SLMR 2.1a * I put spot remover on my dog....Spots gone!
                                                                                                                            
----
+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Ye Olde Bailey BBS   713-520-1569 (V.32bis) 713-520-9566 (V.32bis)     |
|   Houston,Texas          yob.sccsi.com       Home of alt.cosuard       |
+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dhepner@cup.hp.com (Dan Hepner)
Subject: Re: Cummins
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 21:20:26 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1scd1 PL4

From: shadow@pro-haven.cts.com (Blaine Hufnagle)

>% And real^2 diesels, such as those which power locomotives.
>% Anyone know if these are naturally aspirated? 
>
>In a word, I'd have to say NOT!  Have you ever seen one of those beasts out
>of the locomotive?  They are HUGE!!!!

I once saw a broken open cylinder with exposed piston after a loaded
log truck took the side of a locomotive on at 70 MPH.  More correctly,
after the load of logs took on the side of the locomotive, the
truck cab being insufficient to hold them back.  The locomotive came 
off the track and did a 180 in the dirt, digging a 2 ft deep pond which 
partially filled with diesel fuel, but did not catch fire.

>I think they measure the displacement in cubic meters....... :-)
>-blaine

Why would the size of an engine imply something about its aspiration?

Dan Hepner
From: frank@marvin.contex.com (Frank Perdicaro)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: roll cage/bar and harness needed
Date: 30 Dec 92 21:59:28 GMT
Organization: Xyvision Design Systems

In article <103256@netnews.upenn.edu> jhaines@eniac.seas.upenn.edu (Jason Haines) writes:
>	I need to purchase a roll cage or at least a roll bar
>for my 'Datsun 510.'  I am therefore looking for used or 
>unused ones for sale.  I am also trying to find a place
>near Philadelphia, PA that might be able to build or sell/install
>a roll bar/cage for a good price.  I also need a multi-point
>harness (4, 5, or 6).  I am looking towards using a Cam-Lok type

Its now hard to get roll bars since the NHRA now requires 6 point 
stuff for everything.  If you find a place that sells roll bars, tell
me.  I would like one solely as a mounting place for good seat belts.

The cheapest place to get good ( wide, 4/5/6 point belts ) is Summit
Racing in Aakron, OH.  

I have been telling myself that I will be making a seat-belt bar for
my Fiesta for a while now.  Some time before next semester, I hope.

-- 
	 Frank E Perdicaro, Systems Admin, etc.		Xyvision Color Systems
      Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.		101 Edgewater Drive
   inhouse: frank@marvin, x5572				Wakefield MA
outhouse: frank@contex.com, 617-245-4100x5572		018801285
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: romansks@unvax.union.edu (Steve Romanski)
Subject: Re: MSD ignitions,,Whats the story?
Organization: Union College, Schenectady, NY
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 13:53:07 GMT

justin@fennel.cc.uwa.oz.au writes:



> Call for net advice!!

>   I am currentally contemplating a modification of a GM HEI dizzy to
> some sort of MSD(Multiple Spark Discharge) system,,MSD Company sell
>systems such as a 4AL (fires for 12 degrees of crank multiple sparks)
>,,,but these systems are in the range of $500 ^ !!! without a coil pack.

> Just wanted to know of anyone doing(done or using) such a system ,what 
>they used(MSD,other) what coil pack , and what benfits..

MSD sells a kit with the 6AL called the SUPER HEI KIT it sells for about
 $240.00 and has everything cap coil and cables the AL version is rev limiting
The 6A kit sells for 170.00 but doesn't hav a rev limiter.

----------------------------------------------