HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us (Joseph Nathan Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Looking for Tips, Trick, Traps
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 93 13:32:20 EDT
Organization: 5 Sigma Software
Reply-To: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us
Distribution: world,local
X-Mailer: uAccess - Macintosh Release: 1.5v5


In article <ebs.62.727534630@lilly.com> (rec.crafts.brewing), ebs@lilly.com (Eric B. Stauffer) writes:
) 1. When boiling the wort, I wasnt really sure when to look for the hot 
) break? I think it was within five minuted of the boil. Am I right?

Depending on your equipment and your sparging technique, and your
recipe, this will vary.  Expect to see a general cloudiness within
5-10 minutes.  Look for sand-grain size flocs shortly afterward. 
Look for the classic matchhead size flocs after a half hour or hour.
The ultimate size of the flocs will vary considerably with the recipe.
Light colored beers seem to produce smaller flocs.

) 2. [...] This is when it gets kind of ugh. I poured about 1 gallon 
) of unboiled tap water into the carboy. Poured in the wort. I was still about 
) 1/2 gallon short of the 5gall mark on the carboy so I poured in tap water 
) until I reached the mark.

STIR it.  If necessary, put a piece of plastic wrap over the top and
slosh/swish, etc.  I am not responsible for the results if you accidentally
let go.

I use cheap disposable 10ml glass pipets instead of turkey basters for
drawing samples.  (I reuse them.)  You can find them for $.50 apiece,
or perhaps much less, if you look around.  Homebrew shops, alas, haven't
heard of these things yet.  I found some 2-foot long "test tubes" that I 
fill with a bleach solution and keep the pipets soaking, ready for use
after a quick rinse.  Note: this may remove the graduations on the side 
of the pipet.

Unless your tap water has too much in the way of microbes in it (it
hardly ever does if it's from a chlorinated supply), or too much chlorine, 
you may feel free to use it straight out of the tap for topping off
your UNFERMENTED wort.  Never, NEVER add tap water to fermented wort,
though, unless you like your beer oxidized.

================O Fortuna, velut Luna, statu variabilis================
uunet!joebloe!joseph   (609) 273-8200 day   joseph%joebloe@uunet.uu.net
2102 Ryan's Run East        Rt 38 & 41             Maple Shade NJ 08052
Copyright 1992 by Joseph N. Hall.   Permission granted to copy and
redistribute freely over USENET and by email.  Commercial use prohibited.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: pepke@scri.fsu.edu (Eric Pepke)
Subject: Re: shelf-life of grains?
Organization: Florida State University, but I don't speak for them
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 93 19:06:48 GMT

I've left a bag of 2-row on the kitchen floor for a year and a half 
without any noticeable effect.  Crystal malt might lose some of its aroma 
after a while but remains useful.  Don't toss 'em.

Eric Pepke                                    INTERNET: pepke@scri.fsu.edu
Supercomputer Computations Research Institute MFENET:   pepke@fsu
Florida State University                      SPAN:     scri::pepke
Tallahassee, FL 32306-4052                    BITNET:   pepke@fsu

Disclaimer: My employers seldom even LISTEN to my opinions.
Meta-disclaimer: Any society that needs disclaimers has too many lawyers.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: byars@mdd.comm.mot.com (David A. Byars)
Subject: Re: Which dregs to culture?
Organization: Motorola, Mobile Data Division - Seattle, WA
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 22:58:26 GMT

In digest <KeJYM4qdm@ssc.gov> homebrew@lupulus.ssc.gov writes:

>I'm thinking of using recultured Chico yeast for my next brew.

>Plan 1: Buy some SN Pale Ale.  Open 3 bottles and pour the dregs
>        into a starter, treating them as I would a Wyeast culture.

>Plan 2: Same, but with three bottles of my own pale ale, brewed
>        from a fresh pack of Wyeast 1056.

 I recently tried both methods: used 5 bottles of SNPA (my wife drank
 out of the 6th) in one starter, and 3 bottles of ~month old ale of
 mine (pitched with a fresh pack of Wyeast 1056) in another starter.
 The slurry from my own ale had ~twice the volume as that from SNPA
 and fermented out within 3 days and smells "right". The SNPA starter
 took 5 days to ferment out and smells "wrong". The starter was 24 oz.
 of water boiled with 3 tblsp of extract, cooled, aeriated, then split
 in half.

 I brewed a batch last week with the starter of my own dregs, the SNPA
 starter is in the fridge. I will taste some of this starter to see if
 it's as bad as it smells. I would reccommend using your dregs if the 
 beer tastes good to you.

 Would other's who have cultured from bottles of SNPA post or mail
 your experiences?

 Thanks,

 dB
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: totty@flute.cs.uiuc.edu (Brian Totty)
Subject: Laaglander ==> Explosion??? (was: Laaglander, India Pale Ale (report))
Keywords: laaglander, dry malt, amylase
Organization: Picasso Group, DCS, University of Illinois, Urbana-Champaign
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1993 20:44:28 GMT

In article <C1Bo4A.KCE@news.iastate.edu>, rjhoffma@iastate.edu (Richard J. Hoffmann) writes:
> I began on October 3, and the S.G. was 1.058 (all S.G.  corrected to
> 60F).  After the initial fermentation, I racked into a secondary on
> 10/7, with a S.G. of 1.032.  There was no further fermentation.
> Believing this to be too high to bottle, I added a package of Munton &
> Fisson "Home Brewing Yeast," on the theory that the Doric might not be
> attenuative enough.  Nothing.  A few days later I added about 100 mg
> of amylase from Aspergillis niger, and fermentation began again.  It
> continued slowly for a long time (I needed more amylase, I guess).  I
> finally bottled it on January 2 at a S.G. of 1.004!  (Using Papazian's
> calculations, that comes to 7.1% alcohol by volume.)

	If fermentation has stopped, and no density change is observed
	over several days, is it still unsafe to bottle?  Is the worry
	that fermentation is actually occurring, but at a very slow rate?

	I am asking, because I just made a batch of strong ale, and used
	50% Laaglander dry extract, because I heard that it would not
	completely ferment, and thus would be sweeter (I wanted my ale to
	be sweeter).  But, now I am worried about my bottles ending up as
	warheads.

	If my final gravity is higher than normal, but apparently stable,
	is it dangerous to bottle?

						Thanks For Any Info,


						--- Bri

   /                       Brian Totty             o o
  /__  __  o     Department of Computer Science     o  
 /  / /   /          1304 W. Springfield Ave       \_/  "We have corn in
/__/ /   /               Urbana, IL 61801                Massachusetts too!"
Gradual Student         totty@cs.uiuc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: nicholas@brazil.psych.purdue.edu (Jeffrey Nicholas)
Subject: Re: Low O.S.G. reading
Organization: Purdue University
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 18:16:09 GMT

In article <1993Jan20.210203.1@fnalo.fnal.gov> birmingh@fnalo.fnal.gov (Phillip J. Birmingham) writes:
>In article <1jl1k3INN2hi@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>, cr829@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Chris G. Bjelica) writes:
>> 
>> I recently put together my first "recipe" batch from Papazian's
>> New Joys of HB:
>> 
>> India Pale Ale
>> 
>
>         I did the same Monday night and got 1.039 for the initial gravity.
>    I used 6.6# of extract syrup. I am wondering if I cracked the grains
>    well enough.
B


I too had a similar experience with IPA.  I used 6.6# of light extract and
1 pound of honey and got an original gravity of 1.030.  I think it is time for
some homebrewers more experienced than we to comment.  What do you say guys
and gals - Is something out of whack here?  My hydrometer is accurate.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: robertdf@microsoft.com (Robert Del Favero)
Subject: Re: HELP!!! Wort seems dark for a light syrup.
Date: 26 Jan 93 17:49:38 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corporation

In article <1993Jan24.162236.19182@cs.uwp.edu> shaub@cs.uwp.edu (Jeffery  
Shaub) writes:
> Also, I'm using EDME dry yeast and the package says ferment at 65/75  
>deg.
> My basement only maintains a solid 60/62 deg.  Can I move the wort down
> there now that ferment has started or will this low temperature ruin the
> wort??
> 
That should work ok. Your yeast will probably just work more slowly.
But make sure that your fermenter isn't in direct contact with the 
basement floor. The floor is probably colder than the air, and your 
ferment will go really slow. I know, because I put my first batch in 
the basement on the floor, and it barely fermented for the first four 
or five days. I moved it onto a couple two by four blocks to get it 
out of contact with with the floor, and it took right off.

If you need to get cooler fermentation temps (e.g. in the summertime), 
this trick can be used in reverse - put your fermenter in direct contact 
with a large, cool object like a basement floor slab.

Robert Del Favero
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: kelly@spyro.cray.com (Matt Kelly)
Subject: Re: solder
Date: 22 Jan 93 12:58:26 CST

mmlai!lucy!gildner@uunet.UU.NET (Michael Gildner) writes:

>> I constructed the chiller with soft
>>copper tubing.  The coils didn't stay together very well so I
>>put I spot of solder between each coil of the chiller to help keep
>>it rigid.

>>[stuff deleted about tin in lead-free solder reacting with wort]

>>Does anyone have any suggestions on how to cleanly remove
>>the solder from the copper coils?

Since during the soldering process the solder "mixes" with the top layer
of the copper, you can only remove it by cutting or grinding it off. 
IMHO, if you heat it back up and try to "wick" it off or something like
that, you'll only spread it out.

I would just scrape it off with a knife, trying to get as much off as
you can.  If you used a LOT of solder, you may consider building a new
chiller.

>>What would be an efficient way to keep a soft copper coils
>>together so they form a nice cylinder?

Get some solid strand copper wire, say, 16-18 guage, strip off the
insulation (if it is insulated), and wrap it tightly around your coils
to bind them together.  On my wort chiller, I did something similar to
this and also made a hook out of the copper wire to hook onto the rim of
my brewpot.  This way the chiller is VERY stable once it is in the pot.

            X
------------|--------------
------------|--------------)  <-- wort chiller tubing coils
   ---------|--------------)
   ---------|--------------)
   ---------|--------------
            ^
            ^------- wire wrapped to bind coils.
             
Try it out!!

Good Luck,

Matt

==============================================================================
kelly@els.cray.com                   |   Cray Research, Inc.
                                     |
Opinions expressed herein are just   |   "The world's fastest supercomputers".
that.                                |
==============================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: dgrammel@dgrammel.mentorg.com (Dave Grammel)
Subject: Re: Aluminum Pots: good or bad
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1993 23:07:26 GMT
Organization: mentor
Keywords: 
Followup-To: 

In article <C167u0.AHx@wrs.com>, gak@wrs.com (Richard Stueven) writes:
|> In article 17587@lmpsbbs.comm.mot.com,  (David Ingham) writes:
|> >What's the story on Aluminum pots to boil your wort? If they are bad, why? 
|> 
|> I use an aluminum pot to mash and to boil, and I'm not dead yet.

I don't think you have to worry about death.  The problem with using 
aluminum pots for cooking acidic mixtures (like wort or spaghetti sauce) is
that the acid will leach out some of the aluminum.  This will add
an aluminum taste to your beer as well as speed the deterioration of
the pot.  

Some misinformed persons will probably claim that the aluminum will
lead to alzheimers disease.  There is no proven cause and effect
relationship between the two.  

|> 
|> have fun
|> gak
|> 
|> ---
|> Richard Stueven       AHA# 22584 |----------| O sibili, si ergo
|> Internet:            gak@wrs.com |----GO----| Fortibus es inero
|> ATTMAIL: ...!attmail!gakhaus!gak |---SHARX--| O nobili, deus trux
|> Cow Palace:            107/H/3-4 |----------| Vatis inem?  Causan dux.
|> 

-- 
Dave Grammel                      ||   
Mentor Graphics Corportation      ||   If it's not broke bad enough,   
dave_grammel@mentorg.com          ||         don't fix it.
(503) 685-7000                    ||
From: colette@morgan.ucs.mun.ca (Colette Goodyear)
Subject: Plain Old Apple Juice Concentrate?
Organization: Memorial University of Newfoundland
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 17:00:42 GMT

Well, I've got a nice batch of apple cider from Wine-Art's
apple cider kit bubbling away nicely in my secondary and I'm
starting to think about my next batch.

I'm cooking for a rather large crowd (about 100 people at a mini-
convention) this summer and I want
lots of home-brewed apple cider to serve with the meal.  I
don't have the money in my catering budget to buy any more kits.
Apples don't usually grow this far north so I do not have access
to cheap freshly-pressed apple juice. (Only one place in the island
where they'll grow and that's a 12 hour drive away!)

Can I use plain old pasteurized apple juice made from concentrate
as found in the freezer section of the grocery store?  Anything
that I should add/delete to the recipe?

Any help would be appreciated.

Colette Goodyear
colette@morgan.ucs.mun.ca
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: pdifalco@fnma.com (Phil DiFalco)
Subject: pub/homebrew/images (@sierra.stanford.edu)
Reply-To: pdifalco@fnma.com
Organization: Fannie Mae
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 15:29:02 GMT

I've downloaded some of the beer label image files from  
pub/homebrew/images @sierra.stanford.edu.
(I was hoping that that directory would have included labels created by  
indivual homebrewers, rather than professional/comercial labels).
Regardless, does anyone know how I go about submitting a label to  
pub/homebrew/images @sierra.stanford.edu?

--
email: pdifalco@fnma.com (NeXT Mail Okay)
Philip DiFalco, Senior Programmer Analyst, Advanced Technology
FannieMae, 3900 Wisconsin Ave NW, Washington, DC 22016     (202) 752-2812
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From:  (Jan Berg)
Subject: litterature on brewing
Followup-To: rec.crafts.brewing
Organization: UiO
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 11:23:57 GMT

Ive tried to get hold of a book or booklet about brewing. Something simple
that explains the prossess, the diffrent types og beer, things to look out
for etc. Something a little more thourough than the directions enclosed in
brew-kits.

Neither bookstores, nor my supplier can help me. I've seen references to
"Millers guide". Something like that, but not to technical!!!!

Does someone have anything on computer to send me? It would help me a lot
and improve my results, as I am a beginner.

Reward to the first 5 to help me out: Postcard from Norway if you give me
your snail-mail address.

thanks

jan
jeberg@jusit.uio.no
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: smmyers@foghorn.srv.pacbell.com (Sean Myers)
Subject: Aeration
Organization: Pacific Bell OSSEM
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 23:19:10 GMT


Lemme get this straight.  You aerate your wort before adding the yeast right ?

or do you shake it up after adding the yeast ?



       _____  _____   ___   __  _       __  __ _____ ____  _____  _____ 
      |   __||   __| /   \ |  \| |     |  \/  |\ | /|  __||     \|   __|
      |__   ||   __||  ^  ||     |     |      | | | |  __||  ^  /|__   |
      |_____||_____||__|__||_|\__|     |_|\/|_| |_| |____||__|__\|_____|
  -+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+-
  + Sean M. Myers (smmyers@foghorn.srv.PacBell.COM) | WANTED...             +
  = Systems Analyst                                 |                       =
  + Operator Services                               |                       +
  = Software Engineering and Maintenance            |                       =
  + Pacific Bell (SRV complex) CA. USA              |                       +
  -+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+-
crabapple.srv.cs.cmu.edu!bb3.andrew.cmu.edu!news.sei.cmu.edu!fs7.ece.cmu.edu!djc
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Hunter Air-Stat Repaired
From: djc@ece.cmu.edu (David Collins)
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 17:15:00 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: Carnegie Mellon University


I thought I would pass this on to Hunter Air-Stat owners:

My Hunter Air-Stat died on me a few months ago.  It's a popular item for
controlling the temperature of your refrigerator for homebrewers because
it's easy to install and less expensive (< $30) than other controllers I've
read about.  I thought I post the following for other Air-Stat users in
case theirs die on them suddenly.

Anyway, it is time to brew another batch of lager and so I decided to see
if I could find out why it stopped working.  The problem was that it would
not turn on the frig.  The programmable controller appeared to be working
because it gave the correct temperature, date & time, and the flashing
signal that the frig should be on.  However, no 110 VAC was "coming out".

I took it apart and found that near the relay which switches on the power,
a zener diode (labeled Z1 on the printed circuit board) had burned up.  It
was quite obvious.  What was difficult to determine what type of component
it was because it was difficult to read numbers.  However, after doing some
pattern matching on a cross reference part listing, I determined it was a
24V zener.  I wasn't sure if it was a 1/2 Watt or a 1 Watt.  So I got a 1W
replacement for a $1, soldered it in, and it worked.
 
I wonder if any other Hunter Air-Stat users out there have experienced a
similar failure.  Was this failure a defect or a design flaw, or some power
fluctuation that caused this?  The temperature was set fairly high, like
50F, so it wasn't like the frig was on forever causing some type of
overheating.  It is designed for an air conditioner which typically draws a
lot more current than a frig does.

Anyway, something to keep in the back of your mind if your Hunter Air-Stat
controller dies on you.
--
 Dave Collins					Carnegie Mellon University
						Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------
 "It's such a fine line between being clever and being stupid."  Spinal Tap
From: ech@ac.dal.ca
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Hymn to Ninkasi:  Ancient beer recipe
Date: 25 Jan 93 20:40:54 -0400
Organization: Dalhousie University, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

Here's the original Sumarian Beer recipe, translated into English.  I
did copy it down off the radio, so there may be c ouple of minor errors.

Professor Solomon Katz, University of Pennsylvania, Anthropology,
interviewd on CBC AS IT HAPPENS, april 1992

     Cuneiiform Sumarian text on clay tablet, hymn to goddess of
beer, Ninkazi  (Sp?)

You are the one who handles the dough
And with a big shovel, mixing in a pit the batir with sweet
     aromatics.
You are the one who bakes the Batir in the big oven,
Puts in order the piles of hulled grains.
You are the one who waters the malt set on the ground.
You are the one who soaks the malt in a jar,
The waves rise, the waves fall.
You are the one who spreades the cooked mash on large reed mats.
Coolness overcomes.
You are the one who holds with both hands the great sweet wort
Brewing it with honey and lime.
The filtering vat which makes a pleasant sound
You place appropriately on top of a large collector vat.
When you pour out the filtered beer of the collector vat, it is
     like the onrush of the Tigris and Euphrates.


	So, you can interpret the recipe for yourself.  
	Happy ancient brewing...
	ed
From: dheckman@novell.com (Diane Heckman)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: What is chang ?
Date: 25 Jan 93 18:37:40 GMT
Organization: Novell Inc., San Jose, Califonia


Whilst in Sikkim (once a princely kingdom, now an occupied
state in India wedged between Nepal and Bhutan, south of Tibet),
I was given a drink called "chang".  According to the Lonely 
Planet guidebook, chang is a lightly alcoholic drink made by 
pouring boiling water through fermented millet.

Personally, I wouldn't know a millet if I tripped over one.  The 
stuff in the "mug" (a hollowed out section of bamboo) looked like 
maroon pellets the size of mustard seeds with the husks cracked.  

Is it possible to make "beer" in this fashion?  What was it that I 
was drinking so willingly?

I thought I'd post to this group rather than alt.beer since the
level of knowledge seems higher over here.....


Thanks in advance-
Diane
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Subject: Re: RAPID starting yeast, worried beginner needs help 
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean  VA
Distribution: usa 
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 13:18:21 GMT

In article <1993Jan26.020951.12709@novell.com>
 dheckman@novell.com (Diane Heckman) writes:

>Being a beginner, I decide to follow Miller's advice
>and let the trub settle out overnight.  Mistake.
>
>This morning at 8am, we have rapid fermentation,
>50 bubbles per minute.  I read the Miller book and he says
>not to rack during fermentation.  So much for getting
>the wort off the trub.  :-(  
>
>By noon, there was a 4 inch layer of foam with sediment
>on top (looks like a poorly maintained jacuzzi), VERY visible
>fermentation (swirling wort) and 70 bubbles per minute.
>
>Should I worry?  Will the beer be icky because we didn't
>get it off the trub?  Will that layer of foam grow and
>overflow out 6 gallon glass carboy?  Is it OK/safe to 
>allow a primary fermentation to go on in a glass carboy?
>I have images of large shards in the living room.

I do my fermenting in a 6.5 gallon primary, then rack into a 5 gallon 
secondary.  I rack to the secondary after a few days when the kraeusen has 
fallen back into the beer.  Have had a couple of close calls with 
overflowing the primary, but generally have no problems.


John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own
Fidonet:  1:109/131  Internet:  jdecarlo@mitre.org
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: loodvrij@freds.cojones.com (Loodvrij)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Low O.S.G. reading
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 93 15:48:52 AST
Organization: Radio Free Fredbox

nicholas@brazil.psych.purdue.edu (Jeffrey Nicholas) writes:

> 
> I too had a similar experience with IPA.  I used 6.6# of light extract and
> 1 pound of honey and got an original gravity of 1.030.  I think it is time fo
> some homebrewers more experienced than we to comment.  What do you say guys
> and gals - Is something out of whack here?  My hydrometer is accurate.

[ apologies if this looks weird - my editor is doing WEIRD things ]

I've been brewing for a few months now (17 batches) but just lately I've been
getting some pretty low gravity readings. I just did an Imperial Stout with
10 pounds of extract which is reading 1.030! I'm not at all convinced of the
accuracy of my hydrometer, though it reads the correct reading for water.
I don't think its cracked, as I leave it soaking continuously in bleach sol'n
and theres no condensation inside or anything. What could be going on?

Bruce

Loodvrij (Usenet: loodvrij@freds.cojones.com  WWIVnet: loodvrij#fredbox@502)
The FredBox BBS +1 907 344 8437  V.everything, Telebit TurboPEP
Home of a couple lunatics, a malevolent SYSTEM 0PERATOR and other cool folx.