From: rdi@cci632.cci.com (Rick Inzero)
Subject: Ice Fishing: annual informational post
Followup-To: rec.outdoors.fishing
Summary: Tryyyy it, you'll liiiike it!
Organization: Northern Telecom Ltd. (Computer Consoles, Inc.), Rochester, NY
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 18:53:39 GMT

Well, it's getting to be that time of year again, and in my neverending
quest to get more anglers active in the sport of ice fishing, here is kind
of a "Frequently Asked Questions" list that I post annually...
last updated 1/93.  If you have any suggestions/input, let me know!

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 	Here's a few tips I picked up and answers to questions I had
	after resuming ice fishing after being idle at it for 15 years...  
	just to provide a reference, I usually fish for perch, walleye, 
	northern pike, and pickerel through the ice here in New York State.  
	We are allowed 5 tip-ups and 2 hand lines per person in most waters.
	We are (of course) allowed to use live bait.

-How to locate the fish?
	1. Fish near other ice fishermen!!  Chances are they are die-
	   hards or locals who go out frequently, and know where the fish 
	   hang out.  If you drive by a lake on a Saturday about 2-3 hours 
	   after sunrise, everybody should be set up, and you should get a good
	   idea where the fish are (and if the ice is safe yet).  I've 
	   found trying to park the car in a legal spot to be a bigger 
           headache than finding the fish.

	2. Fish VERY close to the bottom.  Water is most dense at 39.2 
	   degrees F.  Sooo... in any lake that is *completely* frozen, 
	   the warmest water in the lake will be 39.2 degrees, and it
  	   will be on the bottom of the lake.  The water temp in a 
	   frozen lake will range from 32 degrees (the water immediately 
	   under the ice) to 39.2 degrees (the water at the bottom of the
	   lake).  Fish, being cold-blooded, will congregate where it is
	   most comfortable (warmest).  NOTE that this near-the-bottom
	   rule is a general rule, and that some fish, notably crappie,
	   frequently "suspend" quite some distance off the bottom for 
	   some reason, maybe something to do with oxygen levels or forage.  
	   I don't fish for crappie, so I've never looked into this further.

	3. You can bring a portable "flasher" or graph type depth finder 
	   out on the ice, and get a good reading right through the ice, 
	   without drilling a hole!  Just make a slight depression in the 
	   ice with the auger, pour in some water, then put the transducer 
	   into the puddle, and voila!  
	   I also read somewhere that you could attach the transducer to a 
	   broom handle, put a plastic bag around the end filled with 
	   (non-toxic) antifreeze/water solution, and prick a tiny hole
	   in the bag (the hole is probably mandatory- I tried it
	   last year with no hole, and it didn't work- too much noise
	   from the air between the bag and the ice), and walk around 
	   scanning the depth like you'd use a metal detector!  
	   Method #1 above is the usual method of deciding on a location.
	   I've heard that non-toxic antifreeze can be found at RV 
	   (Recreational Vehicle) stores.

	4. Try and locate a bend or break in the weedline and fish it.
	   (As opposed to just fishing the deep edge of the weedline.)
	   Unless you're blessed with clear ice with no snow on top, 
	   about the only way to know where such a break is is to use
	   a depthfinder or know where it is from summer.  One interesting
	   note is that if the water is clear and relatively shallow, you can 
	   see down into it quite a distance by doing this:  lie down on the
	   ice, and look down the hole, shading the hole with the hood of
	   your parka.  At first you won't see anything, but be patient.
	   After a minute or so, your eyes will adjust and focus (following
	   your bait down as you lower it is a big help to focus), and 
	   you'll be *amazed* at seeing your bait and the bottom.  On the
	   other hand, you could become frozen to the ice like this until 
	   spring :-).

- What baits and lures are good?
	My favorite jigging lures are the Swedish Pimple, and the Jigging 
	Rapala.  The Swedish Pimple is a silver banana-shaped jigging
	"spoon(?)" about 1.5" long.  The Jigging Rapala is a cigar-shaped
	fake fish, about 1.5-3.5" long, perhaps 1/4" in diameter max.
	It has a v-shaped clear fin at one end that causes it to dart
	way out from the vertical when you jig it.
	I always tip them with either a live mousie grub or perch 
	eye, or a soft white plastic imitation grub (that looks like a 
	mousie).  I've also had great luck with the Berkely Power Wigglers; 
	this'll be my 3rd winter using them.  You could also use a dead 
	minnow or bait head.  

	Any other heavy, thin spoon/chunk of metal should work well also.  
	Shiny lures are good, since it can be pretty dark under the ice,
	expecially if there's a layer of snow on top.  Flashy lures can
	be more easily seen by the fish.  Small lures perhaps are better.
	There are many local independent tackle manufacturers that have 
	ice jigging lures such as "Jig-em-up"s and others.  A popular style 
	is somewhat triangular shaped, but the line ties to the wide (heavy) 
	end, and each time the lure falls, it flips over (heavy side down).

	Other people fish with tiny "ice flies"- essentially tiny weighted 
	jigs with rubber legs or hair, tipped with some small hardy grub.
	With this they use a tiny bobber, and watch for nibbles.  This is
	used for fussy biters, mainly panfish.  I've never fished in this
	manner through the ice.
	
	For northern pike, you can't beat live bait (minnows/shiners/chubs/
	suckers, etc.).  Smaller live bait is also very good for walleye, 
	bass, perch, crappie.  For bass, walleye, pickerel, use 3-4" bait,
	smaller bait for perch or crappie, larger/much larger bait for pike.  
	When we go fishing, we *always* use live bait.  We always use tip-ups,
	and jig in our free time.  Some people just like to jig, and certainly 
	catch enough fish doing so, but I like using tip-ups too.

- How to fish with these baits/lures?
	If you use live bait (minnows), use tip-ups.  The tip-ups I use don't 
	really "tip up"; when open, they look like the x-y-z axes, with a 
	spool of line hanging underwater (to prevent freezing), and a flag 
	attached to a piece of flat spring steel to signal when you get a bite.
	I also own a tip-up that is different than the rest- it's called a 
	"Windlass".  Basically, it's fully above the water (so it's difficult 
	to use if it's REAL cold and freezing out), and it jigs the live bait 
	using the wind- there's a metal paddle on it that your line goes 
	through.  In the past 5 years I've had this tip-up it has out-
	performed 8 other normal tip-ups that my friend and I use.   Some 
	outings, it is the only thing we catch fish on.  It costs ~$12, but 
	it's worked so well for me that I feel it's worth buying at least one.

	Use a solid braided trolling/icefishing line on the tip-ups, NOT 
	monofilament (you won't be able to see mono/untangle it out on the 
	ice).  Tie on a good swivel, then a 3-4' mono leader using a surgeon's 
	knot; the lighter the better (note that the pound test of mono goes UP 
	at cold temps).  Put on an appropriate size sharp hook, and the 
	smallest split shot that will keep your bait down.  Typical hook sizes 
	are #6-8 for crappie/perch, #4-6 for walleye, 2/0-6/0 for pike (or a 
	treble hook).  I've read in the "In-Fisherman" magazine about a 
	"quick strike" rig for pike, using a pair of treble hooks.  This 
	eliminates the need for waiting for the pike to stop, turn the bait, 
	and move again before setting the hook.
	Monofilament seems to work fine on jigging rods/reels since it
	sheds water a little better than braided line.
	Oh yeah, another tip from my grandfather... when using tip-ups, slide 
	a button, threaded through 2 of its holes, onto your tip-up line before 
	you tie on a leader or hook.  When you "sound" the bottom, mark it 
	at the water line with the button.  Move the button down an appropriate 
	distance to adjust for the reel being under water, plus 6-8" or so 
	extra (the distance of the bait off the bottom).  Now, whenever you 
	catch a fish, you don't have to waste time finding the bottom again- 
	just wind the line onto the spool until the button marker, and you 
	are at the exact depth you were at when the fish hit!

	For jigging, tie a snap onto the end, and then clip your lure 
	to that.  It gives the lure a much more lively action than if you'd
	tied the line directly to it.  Again, jig really close to
	the bottom.
	
	One tip I've read for walleye is that the schools always 
	(continually?) swim around the lake PARALLEL to the shoreline 
	(following the contours), so, when setting up your tip-ups, set them 
	all in a straight line out perpendicular from the shoreline in order 
	to find out where the fish are.  This forms a line of bait that any
	walleye swimming by within 50-100 yards of shore will have to pass
	through.  When you find a "hot" hole (depth), you can then move the 
	other tip-ups near it or start jigging.

	This a really great tip...
	If it's going to be REALLY cold out while you're fishing, you
	might want to consider bringing a small hammer or pick out with 
	you in order to break the frozen tip-ups out of the holes...
	It sure beats kicking the ice with your heel or bashing your
	ice scoop to pieces.

- How to stay warm and dry? (I won't bother with shelter...)
	Remember that you are on hard *water*, and don't kneel down everytime 
	you want to rig up a new bait or look down the hole- your knees
	will get wet.
	Bring an old hand towel or rag to wipe your hands on... if you
	keep using your pants, you're going to get pretty wet.
	Dress in layers.  If you get too hot, you can open up or take off
	a layer or two.
	Make sure your neck is well protected with either a turtleneck, dickie
	or scarf.  Wear a hat (or 2 if it's windy)- I usually wear a 
	hardhat liner underneath a ski hat.
	Wear long underwear, and a couple sets of socks.  A polypropylene
	liner sock against your feet with a wool outer sock will wick away 
	sweat and keep your feet dry.  Polypropylene socks/underwear are 
	available from good sporting goods stores or outdoor mail order houses.
	Don't wear so many socks that your boots become tight.  Tight boots
	will make your feet cold due to reduced circulation.
	Bring one heavy set of gloves/mittens for standing around between
	bites, and bring one set of thin light gloves for fooling around
	setting up tip-ups.  That way you won't get your primary set of gloves
	wet by handling fish or bait.
	Cut off an old pair of socks, and put the ankle-parts over your 
	wrists to warm them from the wind (wrist-warmers).
	Bring coffee or hot chocolate in a thermos.  Bring lunch or snacks.
	Bring something to sit on, like a wooden box on a sled/skis or 
	a 5 gallon plastic pail- especially if you're going to jig all day.
	If it's sunny, bring sunglasses unless you like squinting for 6 hours 
	straight, and not being able to see inside the house once you get home.
	Remember that wool is warm even when wet.
	
- Is there an ideal depth to fish? 
	YES!  Within 4-12" of the bottom, noted above (unless you're fishing
	for northern pike and the bottom is completely weed choked- then fish
	just above the weeds.  And unless you're fishing for crappie, which 
	can suspend at any depth (here's where that depth finder is gold!).

- Can regular spinning tackle be used ?
	Sure, but it's a little more difficult to handle the rod and control
	the line/bait with your line going down this one tiny hole.  You'd 
	be better off making a short jigging rod from an old rod tip/handle 
	or buying one- you can get inexpensive rod for maybe $6.  But if you 
	don't want to invest the time or money, the big rod WILL work... 
	until I procured a second short rod, I used to bring a full size rod 
	with me as my second rod... hey, a long pole is better than no pole!
	
- What's an inexpensive yet effective way to cut holes?
	For effective, I'd suggest a gas auger, but they certainly aren't 
	cheap.	It's the only way to go if your ice gets 30-40" thick like
	it does at Lake Champlain here in NY!
	If you will routinely cut through more than an inch or two of ice,
	don't get a spud bar.  My grandfather and I used one for years,
	until I bought a screw-type Mora brand auger.  I'd say this
	brace-and-bit type auger is 5-600 percent EASIER than chopping
	a hole with a spud bar- the difference is unbelievable.  A new spud 
	bar will cost you, say $15-20, and for less than $30 you can get one 
	of these screw augers.  There are also less expensive "scoop" type 
	augers, which work ok as well, although I've never used one.
	So in order of increasing preference, *I* would pick:
	spud bar--scoop type auger--name brand screw type auger--name brand
								power auger
	I guess a spud bar would be ok if you had either perpetually thin 
	ice (in which case you shouldn't be out there) or always use somebody 
	else's day-old holes.  An auger-type drill has difficulty cutting 
	through the unevenly frozen ice that is in a 1-2 day old frozen hole.
	If possible, try and use a scoop type and a screw type before you
	buy one of your own, or ask other anglers if they like theirs.  If
	you went out on a lake and asked, I'm sure someone'd let you drill
	a few holes for them! :-)

- Is this safe??
	Well, I think so, provided a healthy dose of common sense
	and caution is used.  Carry a long rope or two, and some type of
	"ice awls" so that you could pull yourself out if needed.  
	I usually fish in well-known ice fishing areas, and stay off until 
	I see lots of other fishermen out there.  If I fish a remote area, I 
	bring LOTS of friends, and wait until I'm SURE there's plenty of ice.
	I personally wouldn't go out on thin (1-3") ice; I prefer to wait 
	until I've got a good 6-8" or so under me; even so, the flexiblility 
	and other characteristics of the ice can sometimes be unnerving.  Once 
	on a small pond, with at least 8" of solid ice all over, I found I 
	could make the water in fishing holes near shore slosh around 
	by going to the middle of the pond and bouncing up and down.
	The booming and cracking of ice on sunny days also takes some
	getting used to... you have to consciously override your brain's
	command that says "RUN!", and realize that the 12" of solid ice 
	beneath your feet is going nowhere.
	Some people need first-hand experience to comprehend that solid,
	thick ice is really safe.  I had to take both my wife and a 
	co-worker out on the ice in order for them to understand this; no
	amount of logic could convince them.
	When ice is really thick and solid, some anglers just drive their cars
	out on the ice.  Personally, I think this is nuts, and I'd never do 
	this with MY car (try and explain THIS one to your insurance company!),
	but I have been out on Lake Champlain and other lakes in cars.  (It 
	was either ride out or walk 3 miles to catch up to my partners.)  On 
	Champlain, the ice was maybe 38" thick, so I felt pretty secure.

-Heard anything new lately?

	For the year 1991 or so, a hot jigging lure for walleye has
	been Jig-a-Whopper's "Rocker Minnow".  It's a banana-shaped
	jigging "spoon".  I own one, but I haven't been walleye ice 
	fishing yet to try it, but it won a summer tournament or two 
	in 1990(?).

	I personally have had GREAT success on panfish using the Berkely
	Power Wigglers.  They come (dry) in a jar, and are mousie-grub 
	shaped fish attractant.  They last much longer on the hook (you 
	can catch more fish per grub) than live mousies.  
	I used them summer fishing, and they caught panfish when 
	LIVE WORMS would not! They are hard to find in stores, though.  
	I'm not sure if it's because they are so popular or because they 
	are so UNpopular.  All I know is that I'll never use live mousies 
	again, so long as I can get some of these Power Wigglers.

	The "Judas" principle was mentioned in the Dec. 1991 In-Fisherman
	magazine.  Basically, use one really LARGE bait in the middle
	of your other tip ups/jigging holes.  The larger vibrations
	put out by this big bait will attract fish from a greater
	distance than your normal tiny baits will.  On the way in
	to the source of the large vibration, the fish will encounter
	your other tip ups/jigs with smaller sized bait.  (The large
	bait is too big for them to eat.) Sounds reasonable; I'll give 
	it a try this year.

copyright January, 1993, R. Inzero

---
Rick Inzero				        rochester!cci632!rdi
Computer Consoles Inc. (CCI)			uunet!ccicpg!cci632!rdi
Rochester, NY					rdi@cci.com

When you hear a dull "thump thump" sound from beneath the ice when 
going out ice fishing, you know it's going to be a good day-  
the fish are jumping!!  -from my ice-fishin' buddy Dave



Newsgroups: rec.outdoors.fishing