HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: 21329KAD@MSU (Kim Dyer)
Subject: Weller ceramics?
Organization: Michigan State University
Date: 30 Jul 1992 22:15:09 EDT

I'm helping a friend deal with selling off various peices from his
mother's estate.  Among her things we found some Hull and McCoy
ceramic peices (one badly chipped, the rest in excellent shape).
I know these are worth something, and he should not just garage sale
them.  There are also two blue "cornucopia" peices, and a sort
of urn that appear to be about the same vintage and style.  (Sort
of deco.)  They are marked "Weller" on the bottom in large script.
I would like to make an offer on these (can't even THINK about
touching the Hull, and I don't like the McCoy) but would like to
be fair about it.  If they have value I would likemy friend to
get some approximation of their worth.  If they are just odd
deco peices with no real value I'll offer him less.  (His mother
was also a friend, so there are sentimental reasons I would like
them as well.) I know that I can't get a price over the nets
.. but would like to know if anyone recognizes the name "Weller"
as collectable or not.
************************************************************************
*  KIM DYER                    *                                       *
*  208 COMPUTER CENTER         * Had I known this long ago,            *
*  MICHIGAN STATE UNIVERSITY   * I might not have come this way at all *
*  E. LANSING, MI  48824       *                                       *
*                              *                          - Al Stewart *
* 21329KAD @ MSU.BITNET        *                                       *
* 21329KAD @ IBM.CL.MSU.EDU    *                                       *
************************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.antiques
From: cochran@spam.rtp.dg.com (A. Jing Hippy)
Subject: Aluminum (?) Tray and Pitcher
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 92 18:57:39 GMT
Organization: A Suffusion of Yellow

My mother has just given me an aluminum tray and pitcher that I'd like some
information on (at least I *think* it's aluminum).  I have no idea how old
they are, but my sister tells me that they've been around for as long as
she can remember, and she'll be 49 this year.  I assume that this was
manufactured in the '30's or '40's.

Both pieces are their natural, silver color. The tray is round, with aluminum
tubing welded on to two sides of it to make handles.  The bottom of both 
pieces has the legend: BUENILUM - HAND WROUGHT.

There is also a stylized "B" just above the legend, that looks more like a
beta than a letter B.

There used t be six tumblers that went with the set, but mom has no idea
what happened to them.  She gave me these items because I was fondly 
reminiscing about sitting around on hot summer evenings in Georgia and making
floats in the tumblers, which would get so cold that one could barely hold
them.

Anybody out there have any idea what I have and how old it might be?

+--------------------------------------------------+
|Dave Cochran, Data General Corporation, RTP, NC   |
|cochran@dg-rtp.dg.com                             |
+--------------------------------------------------+
|If I owned Texas and Hell, I would rent out Texas |
|and live in Hell. - Philip Henry Sheridan         |
+--------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.antiques
From: okunewck@psuvax1.cs.psu.edu (Phil OKunewick)
Subject: Re: Old Cuckoo Clock
Organization: Random, at best
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 21:12:20 GMT

casey@bradley.bradley.edu (Chris Langston) writes:
>erudnick@claudius.pica.army.mil (Edward J. Rudnicki ) writes:
>
>>The chimes and the music boxes work beautifully, but the time
>>keeping mechanism tends to slow down and stop within a few
>>minutes of it starting. If I put added weight on the weight
>>which runs it it works fine, but it stops with just the cast
>>iron pine cone it's supposed to have.
>
>>Is there a quick fix for this? The alternative is to permanently
>>add weight, but I'm concerned about the added stress this may put
>>on the escapement mechanism.
>
> This is common..there is two quick fixes..either buy and install a new
>movment or rebush the old one...

   This clock may require new bushings.  Then again, it may just need
to be cleaned and lubed. Only your horologist knows for sure.

   One thing is certain: if you add weight, it _will_ require new
bushings, and soon.  The weight on a clock is just enough to keep it
running, without putting too much stress on the pivot points.  There
is already something wrong that either has caused or is causing wear;
adding weight will just accellerate that wear.

   If it doesn't want to run, don't force it.  Get it fixed now while
you still can.


   BTW - I saw a very bizarre grandfather clock at an antique shop
yesterday.  It looks like a hybrid between a clock and a picket fence.

   After looking it over a bit, I realized it started life as a wall
clock.  The case was dismantled, keeping the wood that held the coiled
gong on the back.  A semi-open frame was built out of oak timbers and
lag bolts, after which a fairly convincing antiquing job was done.  A
new face was made, using 1.5" brass numbers screwed onto bare wood.

   Unfortunately, the oak wasn't properly seasoned before the frame
was built; as a result it's warped to one side.  But it sure looks
interesting.  Price is about $600, which I think is way out of line.

Newsgroups: rec.antiques
From: mulcihy@sweetpea.jsc.nasa.gov 
Subject: Re: Weller ceramics?
Organization: McDonnell Douglas Space Systems Company
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1992 12:21:48 GMT

Weller should be in one of the price guides. I would try Schroeder's first.
If you post a description of the piece, someone here would probably look
it up for you.

David Mulcihy
mulcihy@sweetpea.jsc.nasa.gov 
Newsgroups: rec.antiques
From: stratton@cwis.unomaha.edu (Dan Stratton)
Subject: WANTED: Advertising Fans
Organization: University of Nebraska at Omaha
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 14:59:57 GMT

I am on the lookout for Advertising Fans for my wife's collection. These
were given away for advertising from the early 1900's. Generally they
advertised funeral homes, hardware stores, ect.
 
I'll buy 1 or 100 if you have them to sell.
 
I am also personally interested in tire ashtrays or any gas station adv items
 
Email to stratton@odin.unomaha.edu or ph. 402) 895-1090
 
Thanks,
Dan Stratton
Newsgroups: rec.antiques
From: casey@bradley.bradley.edu (Chris Langston)
Subject: Re: Antique Clocks
Keywords: clock repair
Organization: Bradley University
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 92 15:21:16 GMT

In <1992Jul22.212140.7847@octel.com> richard@octel.com (Richard Karasik) writes:

>> I've even seen a clock that ran forever on
>>barometric pressure changes - a flexing plate on a sealed drum moved a
>>winder.  (This one looked fairly recent.)

  These clocks are called "ATMOS" clocks they were developed (I think) around
1890 in france. They are still being made today. But the new ones run on a 
different theory than the origanal french ones. The origanals had a big glass
vile of mercery when the temp or barometric pressure changes. the mercery would
expand or contract. tipping the vile which was mounted on the winder. Thus 
constantly winding the clock. The new ones have a bellows filled with a gas
that is very sensative to temp and barometric pressure that performs the same 
function. I have see origanal french ones for sale for $1,000 to $1,500. New
ones sell between $350 and $900.
-- 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Unknown Indian Chief "Iron Horse bad medicine"                              -
- Unknown Army Scout   "What do you think is good medicine?"                  -
- Unknown Indian Chief "Milk of Magnesia"                                     -
- Chris Langston  casey@bradley.bradley.edu                                   -
Newsgroups: rec.antiques
From: charleen@ADS.COM (Charleen Bunjiovianna)
Subject: Costume Jewelry
Organization: The Original Estrogen-Crazed Lust Bunnies
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 18:05:29 GMT

Anyone out there who collects costume jewelry?  I'd like to learn more
about it.  I ran across some Trifari and Coro pieces at a garage sale
this weekend.

Charleen

--
The new Democratic slogan:

          "Saddam Hussein still has a job.  Do you?"
Newsgroups: rec.antiques
From: kevin@andorra.Berkeley.EDU (Kevin Nelson)
Subject: Re: Pepsi cooler
Reply-To: kevin@andorra.Berkeley.EDU (Kevin Nelson)
Organization: Superconducting Super Collider Laboratory
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 17:21:11 GMT


    vmm@cbnews.cb.att.com (virginia.m.medici) writes


>I recently inherited a blue Pepsi cooler - metal, blue with a can
>opener attached to one side and a drain spout on the outside.
>Comes with a tray that sits on top and then the cover.
>Quite heavy without ice and food, very heavy when filled.
>Does anyone know the value of this (other than sentimental)?
>Gini
>AT&T-BL
>mvuxd!vmm


      I think what you have is a galvanized metal thermal cooler
      probably from the late 50's to mid 60's era.
         I am just recently getting involved in "Coca Cola" stuff
      and have seen similar "Coke" coolers go for $50-100 dollars
      depending on condition, year .etc. 
         Now i cannot say for certain what the "Pepsi" version
       of these coolers goes for , but I think you could safely
       say that what you have is certainly a collectable piece!
        
                      Kevin Nelson
                       SSC labs
                       (214)708-6110
From: lewisg@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com (TEMPORARILY METABOLICALLY ENABLED)
Newsgroups: rec.antiques
Subject: re:WANTED! OLD TOYS (rock-em sock-em robots)
Date: 28 Jul 92 09:11:33 EST

I work at a memoribilia shop in cleveland ohio called "BIG FUN"....you
mentioned you are looking to buy rock-em sock-em robots.....we have a set for
sale at the shop, complete with the box! the asking price is $125! if you
are interested in more info./negotiation/phone#.....please e-mail me!
From: dwatson@ncrclm.ClemsonSC.NCR.COM (Dave Watson)
Newsgroups: rec.antiques
Subject: Seeking value of old phone
Date: 29 Jul 92 20:41:42 GMT
Reply-To: dwatson@ncrclm.ClemsonSC.NCR.COM (Dave Watson)
Distribution: usa
Organization: NCR E&M CLEMSON Liberty, SC


I like to find out the value of a late 1800's/early 1900's phone that I have.
It's wood, about 2 feet tall, and has a Western Electric sticker on the front.
It was the kind that has a crank to ring the bells which are on the outside
of the phone.  The sticker on the inside says it was patented in 1896.  It
is in perfect condition with all wires and equipment still inside.  Anyone
know how much it might be worth?  Thanks!

Dave


Newsgroups: rec.antiques
From: gwb@cbnews.cb.att.com (gregory.blum)
Subject: Re: Weller ceramics?
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1992 15:22:55 GMT

Weller is actually very collectable pottery.  There is, however, a very wide
range of types and values.  They made a great deal of rather cheap mass
produced items commonly used as planters and such, and a somewhat lesser
amount of very beautiful hand decorated pieces.  Value will vary correspond-
ingly;  some of the cheaper pieces can be had for $10 or so, while a nice
Weller Hudson or Sicard piece could be thousands.  It really depends on the
individual piece.  There ARE fairly comprehensive price guides for Weller
pottery;  you should probably consult one of them or a pottery dealer/expert
so that neither of you ends up feeling cheated.

There are some VERY expensive hand decorated blue pieces that are quite
lovely and rather rare; they typiclly look a bit like Delft ware to me.
If the pieces in question have no decoration, they're PROBABLY on the
inexpensive side of the range (i.e. < $50).  Most Weller is, however, more
valuable than either Hull (kind of the dregs of the pottery world) or McCoy.

Condition is very important to all types of pottery (other than the purely
sentimental, of course).  Any chips, cracks, glaze flaws, etc. radically
effect the value of a given piece, even if they are only visible upon close
inspection.  Restored pieces are also worth quite a bit less (though how
much is rather hard to quantify, and good restorations are hard to detect).

Anyway, you should probably consult some reference...... it might get you
interested enough that you'll become a real pottery addict.
From: mulcihy@sweetpea.jsc.nasa.gov (David Mulcihy 283-4279)
Newsgroups: rec.antiques
Subject: Pin
Date: 23 Jul 92 12:04:52 GMT
Organization: McDonnell Douglas Space Systems Company

I have found a pin about the size of a quarter with a ladies face
painted on it. It has a hook on the back so items can be hung from
it. Does anybody have any idea of the time when this item might have
been made?
Thanks.
David Mulcihy
mulcihy@sweetpea.jsc.nasa.gov
Newsgroups: rec.antiques
From: slc7346@venus.tamu.edu (COSTA, SANDI L)
Subject: Breyer Model Horses
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Keywords:  plastic, all colors, all models
Organization: Texas A&M University, Academic Computing Services
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 19:54:00 GMT

Hi, I'm new to this net.  I am looking for anyone that has some Breyer
Model horses they are willing to sell reasonably.  For those of you
unfamiliar with these they are model horses 12"-14" and are very much
like the real life figures they represent.  I believe they still make
some of them but I don't know where the new ones can be found.  I live
in Texas and can't find them here.  Anyone out there have any?

Sandi

Newsgroups: rec.antiques
From: lane@sumex-aim.stanford.edu (Christopher Lane)
Subject: Age of Smith No. 2 Typewriter?
Reply-To: lane@sumex-aim.stanford.edu (Christopher Lane)
Organization: Stanford University, California, USA
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 17:09:05 GMT

I've just finished putting an L. C. Smith & Brothers No. 2 typewriter back
into usable condition and I'd like to know it's age and any other related
info or trivia the net might collectively know about 'Smith' typewriters.

Rather a nice design, the No. 2 is standard black with (worn) gold and blue
pinstripping, physical 'tabs' you remove and move around to set the tab stops,
and a windup spring in the back to create the carriage tension.

Thanks for any information,

- Christopher

PS: I'd really like to know how to adjust the amount of ribbon advance so I can
use a mylar ribbon instead of inked nylon.  The mylar works fine except that
the typewriter only advances the ribbon by about 1/3 or 1/4 character each
stroke and a mylar ribbon requires a full character advance.
Newsgroups: rec.antiques
From: tgee@alfred.carleton.ca (Travis Gee)
Subject: Re: out of print book
Organization: Carleton University
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 13:09:54 GMT

In <2075@devnull.mpd.tandem.com> marym@mpd.tandem.com (Mary Matejka) writes:


>Does anyone know of a good book search company?
>I am looking for a couple of out of print books 
>written by my great grandfather. (History of Texas
>Baptists and My Boyhood in Texas by J.R. Cranfill)
>There aren't any copies in our library (any more)
>and I haven't had any luck in used bookstores.
>Any other ideas?

Another reply mentioned "some book publication". Chances are that it
was Bookman's, the monthly periodical of the used book industry. There
are zillions of books for sale in it, and the addresses of lots and
lots of dealers are there. Get a few copies from your local library
and hunt down bookstores that specialize in Texas material. Write to
them. It shouldn't take too long before _somebody_ finds you a copy.
Another alternative is to post to rec.arts.books once in a while.
Somebody there might be wanting to sell copies, or may have seen them
in some obscure little shop.  Good hunting!

Newsgroups: rec.antiques
From: chaban@fortsc.enet.dec.com (Ed Chaban)
Subject: Reproducing Pianos - Anyone/
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Date: 23 JUL 92 18:07:52 PST


I'm looking for Duo-Art/Ampico/Welte/whatever lovers who would like to 
start a newsgroup or correspond via E-mail.

Send me mail!

-Ed

Newsgroups: rec.antiques
From: ganderso@unlinfo.unl.edu (gary anderson)
Subject: STEREOSCOPES, VIEWMASTERS, and FREE-VIEWING
Organization: University of Nebraska - Lincoln
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 12:12:40 GMT


Could someone tell me if there are any books or publications
devoted to stereoscopic slides and/or free-viewing?

I just recently picked up the knack of free-viewing, and now
I can't get enough of it.

Thanks!

Gary Anderson
ganderso@unlinfo.unl.edu
From: jm0b@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (Janet McMonagle)
Newsgroups: rec.antiques
Subject: clock question
Date: 23 Jul 92 19:10:58 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

I have an antique mantle ......everytime it hits ten minutes after twelve the
clock stops.  I have had it to a clock repair shop for an overextended stay of
several months.  The guy said it "ran fine" in his shop, after repairs; this
was not the case when the clock was at home.  The hands seem to be hard to
move past this time area..... any thoughts as to what may be wrong....
-- 
_______________________________________________________________________________

Janet Doherty
Senior Communications Analyst
(215) 758-5003
JM0B@lehigh.edu
From: casey@bradley.bradley.edu (Chris Langston)
Newsgroups: rec.antiques
Subject: Re: clock question
Date: 24 Jul 92 15:13:07 GMT
Organization: Bradley University

In <1992Jul23.191058.154154@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu> jm0b@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (Janet McMonagle) writes:

>I have an antique mantle ......everytime it hits ten minutes after twelve the
>clock stops.  I have had it to a clock repair shop for an overextended stay of
>several months.  The guy said it "ran fine" in his shop, after repairs; this
>was not the case when the clock was at home.  The hands seem to be hard to
>move past this time area..... any thoughts as to what may be wrong....
>-- 

  It sounds to me like it has a bent handshaft or clutch gear. In either case
one would have to find a junk movment to replace these parts and see if that 
fixes it. It maybe the clutch is too tight. You could should see if your repair
man is a member of the NWACC. There was an artical in the Buliten on how to   
adjust the clutch a few months ago.

-- 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Unknown Indian Chief "Iron Horse bad medicine"                              -
- Unknown Army Scout   "What do you think is good medicine?"                  -
- Unknown Indian Chief "Milk of Magnesia"                                     -
- Chris Langston  casey@bradley.bradley.edu                                   -
Newsgroups: rec.antiques
From: okunewck@psuvax1.cs.psu.edu (Phil OKunewick)
Subject: Re: Old Cuckoo Clock
Organization: Random, at best
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 17:07:47 GMT

pebrier@srv.PacBell.COM (Paul Brierley) writes:
>
>I found that if the clock wasn't completely level (i.e. hanging
>straight), the clock would stop running.  When I made a very
>subtle change to straighten it out, it never stopped again.

   This is true for many clocks.  But as the mechanism becomes more in
need of cleaning/lube, it becomes less forgiving about a little tilt.

   Levelling should be done by ear, not by eye.  The beat should be
perfectly even; the pendulum should take the same amount of time to
swing both ways.  This may mean that the case has to be tilted just a
little.  (A properly adjusted clock will have an even beat when
level.)
From: oopcv@Msu.oscs.montana.edu
Newsgroups: rec.antiques
Subject: Money
Date: 21 Jul 92 19:24:53 GMT
Reply-To: oopcv@Msu.oscs.montana.edu
Organization: Montana State University

Does anyone know, or can anyone point me to a reference, the current value of
paper money?  Specifically, the value of a 1929 $100 gold certificate?  Are
these worth more than silver certificates?

My grandmother offered me face value for it, but she had a twinkle in her eye,
so I declined....

Thanks,
Cheryl  oopcv@trex.oscs.montana.edu
Xref: sparky rec.antiques:1097 rec.autos:18691
From: erudnick@claudius.pica.army.mil (Edward J. Rudnicki )
Newsgroups: rec.antiques,rec.autos
Subject: Old Car Sales Brochures/Manuals
Date: 28 Jul 92 23:51:00 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: U.S. Army  Armament Research Development & Engineering Center, Dover NJ
Originator: erudnick@claudius

Not sure if these qualify as "antique", but I'm looking for
sales brochures and/or owner's manuals for the following:

1955 Mercury Monterey

1969 Mercury Montego

Also a sales brochure for 1979 Mercury Monarch.


Any comments and leads are welcome but please E-mail.

Thanks in advance.



Ed Rudnicki     erudnick@pica.army.mil     All disclaimers apply
Newsgroups: rec.antiques
From: shaunh@sequent.com (Shaun Harvey)
Subject: test
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems Inc.
Distribution: pdx
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 92 07:51:20 GMT

Newsgroups: rec.antiques
From: vmm@cbnews.cb.att.com (virginia.m.medici)
Subject: Pepsi Cooler
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 17:32:02 GMT
Keywords: Worth

I recently inherited a blue Pepsi cooler - metal, blue with a can
opener attached to one side and a drain spout on the outside.
Comes with a tray that sits on top and then the cover.
Quite heavy without ice and food, very heavy when filled.
Does anyone know the value of this (other than sentimental)?
Gini
AT&T-BL
mvuxd!vmm
Newsgroups: rec.antiques
From: okunewck@psuvax1.cs.psu.edu (Phil OKunewick)
Subject: Re: Antique Clocks
Organization: Random, at best
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 14:32:34 GMT

mwill@daisy.WichitaKS.NCR.COM (Mark Will) writes:
>
> [ Some excellent advice on clock repair.  Thanks, Mark. ]
>
>6) Never use WD-40 to lubricate a clock!!!  This is the surest way to damage
>the dial which is usually made of heavy paper.  Use only specially refined
>clock oil to lubricate a clock.

   I think I can expand that to: Never use WD-40 to lubricate ANYTHING
that you don't want to lubricate every couple months.

   To be fair, WD-40 is a great substance.  It has qualities of a
penetrating oil, a cleaner, and a lubricating oil.  This is one of the
best "free-that-frozen-part" substances on the market.

   But one lubricating oil property that it doesn't have is long-term
effectiveness.  After displacing the old oil in the original
application, it seems to completely evaporate after a few months.
This leaves you with totally oil-free metal which not only scrapes
itself badly, but is also prone to corrosion (rust is pretty
abrasive).

   For garden tools, rusty padlocks, and all-around use, it's great.
But don't use it on anything really sensitive.

Newsgroups: rec.antiques
From: CBURNS@ucs.indiana.edu (Chris Burns)
Subject: What to do with old barn?
Followup-To: rec.antiques
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 92 20:37:05 GMT

Howdy,

A friend of mine has some old barns on his property.  They're the kind that
have a frame that's constructed without nails.  He's interested in either
converting them into something he can use, or maybe selling them.  Anyone
out there know anything about this kind of thing?

If there's another newsgroup that I should post to, please let me know.

Thanks

Chris
Newsgroups: rec.antiques