HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: wcr@unislc.uucp (William Rankin)
Subject: Re: Buying NEW Targetmaster 350 from GM
Organization: Unisys Corporation SLC
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 20:42:55 GMT

From article <7OCT199212432008@rosie.uh.edu>, by st1q9@rosie.uh.edu (Devine, Della M):
>           Has anybody ever bought a NEW engine from Chevrolet?
(stuff deleted)

>                                          Waiting.
>                                          william c devine ii

Back in 81 we bought a GM 350 target-master engine. It was a plain-jane
affair which came with heads and intake manifold so installation was
easy. Engine cost $1200 and they wanted $1000 for installation.
My dad (who bought it) was fairly conservative talked them down 
a few hundred and had them do it anyway. It ran ok using the old
carb/trans/etc. There are other places in town who specialize in
installing rebuilt engines for slightly less. The GM warranty was
the same as those offered by the rebuild houses. If it had been my
car I would have either bought the target-master or rebuilt the old
one myself. It's too easy for rebuilders to cheet on rebuilts
(unless you know a good one). There are machine shops arround here
who you can literally drive the car into them and they will rebuild
it for you in a few days. Since they work on a parts & labor basis,
there is less motivation to use a potential problem part. On the
other hand, they may try to persuade you to add performance parts.

BR
From: bell@asdsun.larc.nasa.gov (John Bell)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Saturn corrosive coolant rumor
Date: 16 Oct 1992 18:20:51 GMT
Organization: NASA Langley Research Center, Hampton, VA  USA
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: asdsun.larc.nasa.gov

In article <1992Oct16.162433.5022@Arco.COM>, ericc@Arco.COM (Chang Eric(214)754-3562) writes:
|> I just heard that Saturn pulled something like 5000 cars from their line
|> due to the discovery that their cooling systems were filled with some
|> kind of corrosive chemical.  Is this true?  What happened to the automobiles
|> after they were pulled?                     Eric
|> 

It is true, and they were all squashed to avoid the possibility of them ever
being sold by accident, theft, etc.. I saw an aerial picture of them lined up
to be squashed in the newspaper a couple of months back. Don't know if it was
5000 or not, though.

-----
John Bell
NASA Langley Research Center
bell@haloe.larc.nasa.gov
From: bakc@giraffe.ru.ac.za (MR KR COMAN)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Radial tyres on 1950's/60's cars
Date: 13 Oct 92 05:53:37 GMT
Organization: Rhodes University, Grahamstown, South Africa

Following the recent thread, some conclusions via 1959 Rover with 6 years'
of radial tyre usage.......

Provided all 4 wheels are fitted with radial tyres there should be no
untoward problems.  Keep in mind though, the following possibilities:

1.
Low speed steering effort might increase, for instance when manoeuvering
for parking purposes.  Inflating the tyres to a reasonable maximum will
be the best compromise for cars without power steering: you might have to
experiment at first to determine the optimum air pressures, especially at
the front.

2.
Possibly because of (1) above, and idiosyncrasies relating to steering
geometry you could discover uneven tyre wear patterns on the front tyres.  
Ensure that the wheel alignment is *absolutely* perfect to minimise this
risk.  Note too, that radials will tend to accentuate uneven tyre wear 
caused by worn tie-rods, suspension linkages, stub-axle pins, etc.: at
least that has been my experience.

3.
Watch out for the fact that radials tend to be appreciably wider than 
X-plys, which could mean that there could be tyre-to-body contact especially 
at extreme wheel travel limits; e.g. full lock on the front wheels.

4.
Road and tyre noise could increase, but not annoyingly so.

5.
As radial tyres have lower profiles versus X-plys, the appearance of the
car will change, sitting lower to the ground.  Some folk might be put off
by this result.  Bear in mind that if the car is to be used for competitive 
show/display purposes, judges will usually mark your car down on grounds of
non-originality.  (Some dudes carry 2 sets of wheels: radials to get 
there & X-plys for the show -- bit extreme??)

Given all the above, advantages of using radials on a 25 year (+) car:
reduced tyre costs, improved availability, improved roadholding (esp in
wet weather), extended durability (provided suspension & steering geometry
are in good shape).  

Cheers,

Keith Coman
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: louise@pravda.cc.gatech.edu (FA) 
Subject: Re: Oh dear oh dear... (Was Re: Carb Questions)
Reply-To: louise@pravda.cc.gatech.edu (Louise Penberthy) 
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology 
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 17:58:10 GMT

In article <ldb9ahINN2j8@utkcs2.cs.utk.edu> bhhardy@cs.utk.edu (Barbara Hardy) writes:
>[.....]
>Last Monday, right after having watched the depressing trouncing of
>Dallas by Philly, I was driving home. Car running great. Then,
>suddenly, with no warning at all! The speedometer slides to the left.
>Hell, I think. I gear down, it pops back momentarily, and then resumes
>it's downward spiral, to end at zero thereby leaving me on a dark road
>alone at one am. My worst dream realized. 

How long, or how far, had you been driving when this started?

>The mystery: it will start beautifully, and run, too, until the car
>begins to warm up a little (i.e. the choke begins to open), and then
>it acts as if it cannot get enough gas. If I am driving it, it
>stutters forward (I'm sitting here trying to figure out how to put
>down that jerking/rRR rRR rRR feeling/sound. I guess anyone who has
>ever run out of gas knows what I mean.) At rest, it finally dies no
>matter how much I try to preempt that with the accelerator pumping.

If you only drove it for five minutes, or a mile or so, it sounds
as though it could be as simple as a stuck choke.  Since you've
rebuilt the carb, this should be easy for you to spot.  On my
Omni (with the same carb), the little plastic thingy that keeps
the pulldown rod attached to the flap rod (or whatever it's
called), occasionally hooks up on top of the air horn.
Correcting the problem is as simple as unhooking it and cursing a
little at how small a problem can cause such major symptoms.  :-)

>Anyone got a clue? I've done the spraycarbcleanerlookingfor leaks, but
>the idle is so unstable that there is really no way to be completely
>sure. THere are not HUGE leaks, though I am pretty sure, since when it
>first starts the idle is quite high and stable, and I sprayed then. Of
>course once it begins to warm up the idle is entirely unreliable.

Welcome to the wonderful world of the Holley 6520.  :>

-- Louise Penberthy

Louise Penberthy                |  "A student came to me with a desire to know
College of Computing/ Georgia   |   the time, and I told her how to make a 
Tech/ Atlanta, GA 30332         |   watch."
louise@pravda.cc.gatech.edu     |        -- Chris, NEXP:Northwest Passages
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty)
Subject: Re: oxygen sensor
Organization: New York State Institute for Sebastian Cabot Studies
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 16:47:37 GMT

In article <1992Oct11.203434.27766@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> chohan@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Harpal Chohan) writes:
>>It would be nice to diagnosis the O2 sensor as bad before trying to pull 
>>it out...

>You can hook a voltmeter to its output and observe how fast it reacts
>when hot. Should fluctuate between 0.4 to 0.7 V at a fairly brisk
>rate.

use a high impedance meter, like a VTVM, for this task.  it works well;
some racers are now installing O2 sensors in their exhausts, and putting
a meter on the dashboard so that they can watch the output of the sensor.
rick pocock (races an ITB Alfa GTV in the northeast) has a dashboard
mixture control connected to his fuel injection pump so that he can
adjust the mixture as a race progresses.

do not, EVER, try and measure the resistance of an O2 sensor with any
sort of ohmmeter.  it yields no useful information, and reportedly can
damage a working sensor.

note:  these hints only apply to bosch and bosch-style O2 sensors; there
are apparently some units that operate a little differently, and i'm not
familiar with them.

richard
-- 
richard welty                            518-393-7228
welty@cabot.balltown.cma.com
  ``if you can read this, mario, you're too close''
    -- bumper sticker seen on a CART safety truck
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: RZAA80@email.sps.mot.com (Jim Chott)
Subject: Re: Slick 50 gear oil trashes syncros, NOT
Organization: Motorola SPS
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 17:53:16 GMT

In article <1992Oct13.145453.1@bronco.fnal.gov>, colombo@bronco.fnal.gov writes:
> 
> 
> UPDATE:  Slick 50 gear oil in tranny trashes syncros, ?.
> 
I also put Slick 50 into the Muncie M-21 in my car.  I had trouble
engaging 1st gear when cold.  First gear works much better cold
now, but second grinds just a little bit when the tranny is really
hot, like after a 50 mile ride.  I've got about 5k miles on it with
the Slick 50 in it now.  Don't know exactly how to interpret the
results though.  

Jim
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bradstoc@bach.udel.edu (Craig A Bradstock)
Subject: Re: electronic rustproofing.
Organization: University of Delaware
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 23:41:37 GMT

From: Steve.Kaess@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Steve Kaess)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Improve 1991 Accord LX handling ??
Date: Sat, 17 Oct 1992 00:28:34 -0500

 >
 >
 > Hi !
 >
 > I have a 1991 Accord LX and I'd like to improve its handling
 >  -- specifically decrease the amount of body roll around
 > curves and  corners.
 >
 > What can I do to achieve this ? I know the car does not
 > have a rear stabilizer bar but I'm not sure about the
 > front.  The Accord EX has both.
 >
 > Would adding either or both of these improve handling
 > significantly ?
 >
 > Is it possible to install these now ? How much would it
 > cost ?
 > If I purchase it from the dealer can I do it myself ?
 >
 >
My first idea is to trade the accord before it starts to lose value 
and get a nice new taurus, the sho if you can swing it...
Dont like that idea??...hmmmmmm
 
Well I think your best bet would be to replace all 4 struts with 
top quality kyb or bilsteins or even monroe or gabrial but if you 
get kyb, or monroe and gabrials get the high performance ones.
There are higher rate springs out there, but I think the new struts 
will give a good improvement...
there are lots of anti roll bars out there in the pages of car 
magazines, and at your friendly local import car part store...same 
place you get the struts from...A rear bar might help a bit, but 
a larger front one might do more to help...try the struts first imho...
...there is a super high performance dodge intrepid rumored to be  
in the pipeline...  


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: zenith89@bcarh1eb.bnr.ca (Chris VanFleet)
Subject: Re: Rear Decklid on 93 Crown Victorias
Reply-To: zenith89@bcarh1eb.bnr.ca ()
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Ltd., Ottawa, CANADA
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 18:09:50 GMT

In article <N6NcsB4w165w@toz.buffalo.ny.us> augy@toz.buffalo.ny.us (Jeffrey Ehlinger) writes:
>
>     Did anyone notice the change that Ford made on their 93 trunklids. 
>     .... 
>     i think it looks 
>     kind of goofy, but i immagine it's safe. I also notice the basic 
>radio/tape player is a little nicer, any other changes I didn't see?
>
The real Crown Vic died in 1991 (RIP). The 92/93s look goofy period.
From: welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: What is the air pump used for?
Date: 12 Oct 92 21:25:56 GMT
Organization: New York State Institute for Sebastian Cabot Studies

In article <799.88.uupcb@chaos.lrk.ar.us> dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)  writes:
>> It still puzzles me why cars cannot run a little bit lean.

> There's no problem with running a little bit lean.  The problem is
>determining exactly how lean you are, and not letting it slide into too
>lean.  It can be done, but it takes a little more work than conventional
>stuff.

quite.  too lean can have extremely unpleasant side effects, like
burned valves and holes in pistons; lean mixtures tend to run hotter.
most modern motors in the US are set about as lean as they can reasonably
run to begin with for emissions reasons; the new learn burn motors that
you hear of generally involve significant changes in injector and
valve design.

richard
-- 
richard welty                            518-393-7228
welty@cabot.balltown.cma.com
  ``if you can read this, mario, you're too close''
    -- bumper sticker seen on a CART safety truck
From: paul@sdd.hp.com (Paul K Johnson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: '88 Supra head gasket problems?
Date: 15 Oct 1992 17:10:15 -0700
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Corporate Engineering
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: hp-sdd.sdd.hp.com

I have a 1988 Toyota Supra with about 51,000 miles, whose head
gasket has a leak between the number six cylinder and the coolant
system.  I'm going to court Monday, and wondered if anybody else
has had similar problems.

I've absolutely babied the car, changing the oil every 4,000 miles,
letting it cool down before killing the engine, etc., but Toyota's
position is I've probably trashed the car and got what I deserve.

If you have run into a similar problem, or have heard of a similar
problem, please email me and I'll post the results.

paul

paul@hp-sdd.sdd.hp.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: A.J.Robinson@lut.ac.uk (Alan Robinson) 
Subject: Shift speeds
Organization: Loughborough University, UK.
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 92 16:27:28 GMT



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: Air Compressor Questions
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 20:26:18 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

                      Compressors and Air Tools

 Compressors are rated (at first glance) by their motor horsepower. Their
real power output however should be compared on the basis of airflow at
pressure. This is what does the work at the other end of the hose. A pair
of compressors with the same motor can have different air delivery abilities
due to the efficiency of the "lung", the plumbing, etc. For air tools, the
best indicator of air power is probably the airflow at 90PSI. Many tool
manufacturers list air demand at this pressure and many tools do not
operate as effectively at lower pressures.

 Air horsepower = CFM x pressure x .0044

 An ideal 5HP compressor would give you 5 air HP. Judging from the
ratings, efficiency is typically about 30%. Much of this is lost as
heat during the compression (the inlet plumbing gets pretty hot as
does the motor).

 Typically any compressor over 2HP will run off 220V power (dryer outlet 
etc.). The largest "portable" compressors are around 5HP. Stationary units
above about 8HP typically require 3-phase power. 

 Getting the air to the tool is done with air hoses, fittings and connectors.
Cheap hoses are often 1/4" ID. These hoses cost you pressure@flow at the far
end, analogous to electrical resistance. A 1/4"ID hose is over twice the
resistance of a 3/8" hose. In high demand applications going to 3/8" alone
can give you 20PSI more at the far end, with the same tank pressure.

 The most common connectors are standardized on 1/4" NPT (pipe thread). The
ID of this pipe is (surprise) 1/4". Short bits of this pipe are not as bad
as long hose runs. The connectors themselves, however, are major sources 
or restriction. The common ones neck down to about 1/8" inside the male
piece and the female connectors' internal valve also adds restriction. 
This is the price of convenience. If you can tolerate the extra hassle you
can get better performance by screwing the hose ends directly into the tool
and the compressor. You will have to depressurize the tank each time unless
you add an inline valve. You can add a "T" and have a coupling for low-
demand tools and a valve/dedicated large hose for high-demand ones too.
Use the straight-through part for the high flow and the 90 degree for the
coupler. Since the compressor usually comes with one coupler, this will 
set you back about two bucks if you use galvanized pipe from the hardware
store.

 High-demand tools such as die grinders and sandblasters benefit from such
efforts. They also benefit from using the minimum length of hose possible.
Again, you trade performance for convenience. 
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
From: DEVILBISS@OCTAVE.LARC.NASA.GOV (Zaphod Beeblebrox)
Subject: Lifting a JEEP Wrangler?
Reply-To: DEVILBISS@OCTAVE.LARC.NASA.GOV (Zaphod Beeblebrox)
Organization: NASA Langley Research Center, Hampton, VA USA
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 15:15:41 GMT

 I am looking into lifting my 1988 JEEP Wrangler.  My question is, 
of the possible methods, which is the best in terms of performance 
versus cost.  My funds are extremely limited (read . . . still 
making payments) so low cost is important.  

1.  Add a leaf.
2.  Longer spring shackles.
3.  Body lifts.
4.  Stiffer shocks.
5.  Any others?

What are some of the advantages and disadvantages of these methods.  
Thanks . . . Dave

        If we were not crazy, we would go insane.
        If we could not laugh, we would go insane!     J. Buffett
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jrp@bohra.cpg.oz.au (John Pitman)
Subject: Live axclees vs IRS
Organization: Computer Power Software
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 04:27:23 GMT

DOwn here in oz, the local branch of thr general (GMH) offers an IRS option on 
the local version of the OPEL Commodore for A$990, and if you take that, you can
get ABS for another A$990 (cos FORD offer ABS for A$990 on their local FALCON).
Both seem like godd value to me ? Most jap cars charge A$2k for ABS here.
jp
From: rodder@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Jon D. Rodder)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 89 Jeep Wrangler slave cylinder
Date: 10 Oct 92 00:59:06 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin, Austin TX

In article <1992Oct2.104154.1@bronco.fnal.gov> colombo@bronco.fnal.gov writes:
>In article <80895@ut-emx.uucp>, rodder@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Jon D. Rodder) writes:
>> I've got an 89 Jeep Wranlger, 258 (4.2l), 5spd, 57,000k miles.
>> The slave cylinder appears to have died on it (have to refill
>> the master cyl every other day, and there is fluid dripping from
>> the bellhousing).  Has anyone here replaced one of these before?
>> It appears that I've got to completely drop the tranny and transfer

>Are you talking about the brakes or a rear main seal on the engine?

Neither, I guess I should specifically said clutch slave cylinder,
but anyone with useful advice (someone who has replaced the clutch
slave cylinder in a wrangler) would have immdeiately understood what
I was talking about.  
 

-- 
--=< Jon D. Rodder ----- rodder@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu >=-- 
    \    IRC-Op at tramp.cc.utexas.edu (Rodder)   /
     \    89 Jeep Wrangler - 258/PIECE OF JUNK!  / 
      \        79 Rx-7 - 12A/Holley 4bbl        / 
       \________67 Camaro RS - 350/4spd________/ 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ycheah@hamp.hampshire.edu
Subject: Re: SUBARU 4WD LOCK-UP
Organization: Hampshire College
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 04:27:24 GMT

In article <25998@oasys.dt.navy.mil>, peterson@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Rodney Peterson) writes:
> I HAVE AN '87 SUBARU THAT HAS 4 WHEEL DRIVE.  RECENTLY
> THE 4WD HAS BECOME EXTREMELY!!! DIFFICULT TO DISENGAGE.
> IT ENGAGES READILY AND EASILY BUT IS A REAL BEAR TO GET
> OUT.
> 
> I TOOK IT TO THE DEALER TO LOOK AND HE TOLD ME MY PROBLEM
> STEMS FROM UNEVEN TIRE WEAR ON THE FRONT AND REAR TIRES, THAT
> A SLIGHT DIFFERENCE IN THE TIRE SIZES, DUE TO WEAR, CAUSES
> THE TRANSMISSION TO LOCK-UP.  MY CARE HAS 71,000 MILES AND
> I HAVE RECENTLY REPLACE THE FRONT SET OF TIRES AND NOT THE BACK.
> BUT TO HAVE THE 4WD LOCK-UP TO THE POINT OF HAVING TO JUMP ON THE
> LEVER TO GET IT BACK OUT??!!
> 
In the "selecive" 4WD Subarus, there isn't a differential between the front and
the back wheels. So, when your tires are of different sizes front and back, you
get differing rotation and the transfer case and transmission takes the strain
when 4WD is engaged. If you keep the car going straight and step on the clutch
to bring the rpm down, you may be able to get it out of 4WD. If you still 
cannot, don't use the 4WD until you can get a matching set of tires. 
You don't want to destroy your transmission. Trust me, I know. :-(

Yin-chai
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: DOHC on a V8 possible?
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 10 Oct 92 06:52:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> What shortcomings are you referring too?  I thought the '84 and later
-> Vette was supposed to have a great suspension.

 They have rather severe camber change, which causes the tires to rise
up on edge, losing grip, and causing instant oversteer.  Usually a
spinout, even with the 'vette's go-kart steering ratios.  So you wind up
taking bumpy sections very slowly to keep from losing control.

 GM relocated the lower inner pivot points after a few years of
production, so later ones aren't quite as bad.

 Any time you using a halfshaft as a suspension link, you're severely
limited in the range of available geometries.  Your choices are
basically swing axle or parallel-link with minor variations.
                         
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: formula@athena.mit.edu (Ronald R. Duff Jr.)
Subject: Windshield wiper/washer problem on 1980 Oldsmobile Delta 88
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 00:25:17 GMT

	I am driving a 1980 Olds Delta 88 and I started having problems
with the winshield wipers last night.  All of a sudden they froze in the up
position on the winshield.  About a half hour later, they came back down.
When I tried to use them again, the wipers seemed to work stiffly at first
and then quickly loosened up and began to work properly.  However, now the
washer pump runs whenever the wipers run and makes a loud clacking noise.
The switch for the washer is working properly because when I press it I can
hear the relay click under the hood.  Has anyone seen this problem before?
Will I need to replace the pump or is there some other fix I can do?  Any
info would be appreciated!  There are still a LOT of these cars on the road
so I thought it would be worth posting.

--Ron
--
Address: Ronald R. Duff Jr.         Phone: (508)842-2293 (Home)
         29 Lamplighter Drive              (617)253-1652 (Work)(MIT room 6-332)
         Shrewsbury, MA 01545    Internet: formula@athena.mit.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech