HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: david@postman.gr.osf.org (David George)
Subject: Re: XTR 8SPD and thumb shifters.
Organization: OSF RI Grenoble
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 16:21:10 GMT

In article <truesdel-161292220701@mac_dungeon.ics.uci.edu>, truesdel@ics.uci.edu (Scott Truesdell) writes:
|> In article <1992Dec17.015846.27170@jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca>,
|> mamacdonald@mta.ca (Steve MacDonald) wrote:
|> >
|> >     Is there such a thing as an 8-speed thumb shifter?
|> 
|> Standard off-the-shelf Deore XT II thumb shifters actually have 8 detents.
|> Whether the indexed throw corresponds with the XTR cog spacing or nor, I
|> don't know.

Is the XTR cog spacing different from the 7 speed cog spacing, isn't it just a
1 cog wider cluster ?  I can confirm your comment about the 8 detents and I
currently use an XTR rear derailleur with a 7 speed cog and thumbshifter with
no special adjustments being necessary.  I suspect it will work with the 8 cog
cluster (with the above proviso).

I have to admit that I can't really see a great difference in the quality and
construction between the XT and XTR rear mech.  I'm lead to believe (by the
Shimano marketing) that the XTR has a larger total tooth capacity, which
was my original reason for buying it.

BTW in the XTR destruction manual it only gives information for set-up with
rapid fire shifters.

David.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: josh@Happy-Man.com (Joshua_Putnam)
Subject: Re: Looking for rechargable battery supplier
Reply-To: Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com
Organization: Happy Man Corp., Vashon Island, WA 98070-7399
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 17:55:28 GMT

For small lighting systems, NiCad batteries work pretty well.
For big lighting systems, a large enough NiCad pack gets
prohibitively expensive, at least by my standards.  For my dual
20W halogen commuting light system, I use a 12v, 6.5 Ah lead-acid
gel cell.  Sure it weighs like a brick, but on low beam it runs
for almost 4 hours between charges.  Plus, after riding all
winter with a 5lb battery on the rear rack, I feel like I'm
flying when daylight returns.

I bought my battery from Digi-Key, 1-800-344-4539.  It's part
number P173 and costs $32.18 + S&H.

All Electronics, 1-800-826-5432, has a similar battery for $37,
but also has transformers that make good chargers.  A 12Vdc 1A
model costs $6.50, and a 14Vdc 1.6A one goes for $12.50.

MCM Electronics has a 7Ah 12V gel cell for $32.50.  They're at
1-800-543-4330.
-- 
 Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com    Happy Man Corp.  206/463-9399 x102
 4410 SW Pt. Robinson Rd., Vashon Island, WA  98070-7399  fax x108
 We publish SOLID VALUE for the intelligent investor.  NextMail OK
Info free; sample $20: Send POSTAL addr: Solid-Value@happy-man.com
Newsgroups: rec.auto,rec.autos.tech
From: tj@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Tom Johnson)
Subject: Fiero Specialists?
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
Distribution: ca
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 92 19:09:27 GMT

Does anyone know of somebody who specializes in working on Fieros in 
Orange County or Southern LA County?  I have a friend with a beautiful
'88 GT who wants to get it checked out and tuned up.  He hasn't found any
dealers that he like, so he'd like to find someone who has a lot of experience
with these cars that he can trust.

Tom
-- 
Tom Johnson             "They say Confucious does his crossword with a pen."
tj@cs.ucla.edu                               -Tori Amos
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stevep@sparky.se.hou.compaq.com (Steve Pinn)
Subject: Re:      Mantelpiece - Me Too!
Organization: Compaq Computer Corporation
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1992 18:36:07 GMT

In article <09DEC92.11479065.0020.MUSIC@SJUMUSIC>,         ZGDSHSE <ZGDSHSE@SJUMUSIC.BITNET> writes:
|> Hi -
|> 
|> I too am planning to build a mantle, but also plan to incorporate it
|> into the entire wall with paneling, etc.  I would appreciate any
|> input you get that is sent personally and not on the net.
|> 
|> Apeaking of mantles -
|> They have nice ones at Home Depot, if you have one locally.  They
|> aren't priced too badly, and you can steal ideas from them to
|> make your own, also.  They have molding, etc.
|> 
|> In N.J., (Elizabeth) there is a wood place called Interstate Lumber with
|> mantle molding.  Trouble is you hae to buy whatever board lengths
|> of it the - as in 16'.  Still, there are mantle molding pieces
|> available.
|> 
|> Good hunting -
|> Gene Sampson

Gene I believe this months issue of Fine Homebuilding has a feature article
on mantles - Steve
From: keith@badseed.Eng.Sun.COM (Keith)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: New Saw Checkout
Date: 15 Dec 1992 23:59:47 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems
Distribution: world
Reply-To: keith@badseed.Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: badseed.eng.sun.com

Hello,

I've been reading this group for quite a while now.  I don't have the
requisite table saw, but I'm probably going to pick one up soon.  What
I'm interested in is measuring the accuracy of the saw after it arrives.

I've heard a lot of folks complain about a warped table top, arbor
runout and other such things, but the talk is usually in measurements
that I can't believe I could make.  So, I'd be very interested in 
hearing how you measure table flatness to .00?", or any other part of
the tool to such an accuracy.  Also, a list of things I should measure
when I do get the saw would be very helpful.

If there is some FAQ, please direct me.  If I missed the thread, point me
to an archive. If there is a book, name it.

Thanks for any help,
Keith

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: scot@fc.hp.com (Scot Heath)
Subject: Re: Safest way to use radial arm saw?
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 23:02:04 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Fort Collins Site
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.8 PL6]

Ok, I do pull a RAS from the post outward when cross cutting but how many
of you have had a dado or even a cross cut blade grab, spring the arm
upward and run across the top of the wood?  I have seen this happen and it
has happened to me.

The key here is go slow and keep all bodily parts away from the path the
blade is going to take AT ALL TIMES.  Don't assume you can hold the piece
and start a cut for position or only cut part way.

I have always hated this about radial arm saws.  You don't run your
circular saw in this manner, it cuts from the bottom of the wood to the top
and the force exerted by the blade is against the saw motion, not with it.

I had quite a scare with a radial arm saw.  I was cutting banisters for my
deck and I had a jig set up because I had a bunch to do.  I would cut one,
flip the remainder, cut another and then get a new piece of stock.  I got
distracted and the vibration of the saw caused the carriage to work it's
way out on the arm.  I picked up a piece of lumber and without really
looking, swung it up on the table and hit the motor of the saw.  I nearly
wet my pants when I realized I could just have easily swung my hand into
the blade.  I immediately put blocks under the front legs to cause the
carriage to be held in by gravity.

HEY, LETS BE CAREFUL OUT THERE!

-Scot
From: lindsey@sdac.harvard.edu (Jane Lindsey)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Woodworking courses in Boston area
Date: 11 Dec 92 20:15:20 GMT
Distribution: ne
Organization: Statistical & Data Analysis Center, Harvard University

I am looking for a basic woodworking course in the Boston area - one
that will teach use of handtools and basic joining techniques.  Can
anyone make any recommendations? Thanks in advance.

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: davidb@hpmcaa.mcm.hp.com.mcm.hp.com (David Burton)
Subject: Re: Staircase Handrail
Organization: HP Cardiology Business Unit - McMinnville, OR
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL7]
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 21:03:47 GMT

stephen anthony (steveo@think.com) wrote:
: 
: I just bought a house and one thing that's definitely on my list to replace
: is the staircase handrail. Currently it's an iron railing; but I'd like to
: replace it with a wood newell post, handrail and spindles (balisters?). Are
: there any reference books on how to craft such a thing? I'd like to start
: with stock parts and do what ever joinery is required to put it together,
: as I don't have a lathe or shaper. I'd also like to get it done is the
: forseeable future, and as I won't have a real shop until some renovations
: are done....



	I built the balustrades in my new home.  Coffman has a Balustrade 
installation manual available from their distributors.  Check libraries also.
I used oak components from an outfit in Sandy, Utah. Can't remember their
name offhand.  It turned out very nice.



David Burton
Hewlett Packard
McMinnville, OR 
503-434-8395

:
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Sears Crafstman "commercial" routers
From: michael@sunbeam.ksc.nasa.gov (Operator)
Date: 17 Dec 92 18:55:08
Distribution: world
Organization: NASA, Kennedy Space Center, FL.
In-reply-to: coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM's message of 9 Dec 1992 02:38:44 GMTLines: 25


In article <lian1kINN183@exodus.Eng.Sun.COM> coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM
	(Chip Coffin) writes: 

   Hi,  I have a cousin who wants to buy a router for her husband.  They ain't rich,
   and he won't use it *that* much, but he will use it.

   It turns out that Sears has a router with lots of features  - vari-speed, 
   dust bag, whatever, for about $100 - "sears best".

   I can't say this router is garbage, just because it's Sears, I'd rather
   say it's garbage because I know of people that have had bad experiences with
   it.  I've never used it.
   [...]
   Does anybody have juicy, steamy, sears router rip-off stories so I can
   back up my feelings about Sears routers? - Or is it really not a bad deal
   for 100 bucks?
   [...]
   Stories, Opinions?

Here, I'll sell you mine for $75. Really! It works just like it was
new.  Well, it is.. practically.. its got less then 2 hours on it
total.  (Then I can go buy that Porter Cable 690, and the 693 plunge
base...  or maybe that Elu... or was it Bosch?  :^)
From: ron@topaz.bds.com (Ron Natalie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Saws: BT3000 vs. Delta Contractor's
Date: 14 Dec 1992 20:26:54 GMT
Organization: BDS Systems
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: topaz.bds.com

> Moving the Contractor's saw is a big operation.  Even if you just have
> to move it from one side of a room to the other, you'll need help,
> because of its weight (you can get casters, though).  To move it
> through a door, you'll need to take off the extension wings (which as
> I mentioned are a pain to line up again) and table board (if any).

Here's a hint.  Remove the four bolts holding the stand to the bottom
of the saw.  Now pick up the saw and rotate it 90 degrees (so the motor
is now on the bottom).  It will now nicely fit through doors.  This worked
just fine when I moved.  Nothing else needs to come off (though removing
the motor makes things a lot easier).
 

> So where's the trade-off?  The Ryobi appears less robust.  It has many
> plastic parts, including wear parts like the sliding table slides...

I'm also concerned about the use of a Universal motor.

> All of this is quite subjective, since I have not run a single piece
> of wood through the saw (that would void my right to return it to the
> store).

Seems like you're missing the point.  You probably have a set of chisels
in a nice wooden box that you've decided not to dull the edges on by putting
in contact with wood :-).

-Ron
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: porcelli@trabs.serum.kodak.com (Rocco Porcelli (x69853))
Subject: lacquer
Reply-To: porcelli@serum.kodak.com
Organization: Clinical Diagnostics Division, Eastman Kodak Company
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 15:08:50 GMT

I haven't been very happy with the look of any top coat finishes I've used.  I saw a piece at a local cabinet shop that was finished with lacquer.  I liked the way it looked.  Does anybody out there have experience with lacquer?  I also saw an add in Woodworker's Supply of New Mexico for a water based lacquer.  Has anybody used this?  I have a Wagner Finecoat and have been spraying Hydrocote clear finish and polyurethene.  The finish is OK but it's not really what I'm looking for.

As an aside.  I really like the Finecoat.  It's a great way to get into HVLP for a relatively inexpensive price.  My only complaint about it is that the gun leaks around the cap sometimes.

Thanks in advance for your responses.

Rocco Porcellio
Eastman Kodak Co.
Rochester, NY
From: markw@hpcss01.cup.hp.com (Mark Williams)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 17:37:43 GMT
Subject: Re: Re: Wood for Plane Soles
Organization: Hewlett Packard, Cupertino
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

Wood for plane bodies has traditionallly been beech.  The better planes 
made in the late 1800s used boxwood, rosewood and ebony.  Brass and ivory
trim is also found on better examples.

In my opinion, beech was chosen because it was tough and cheap, but it has
a tendency to be unstable dimensionally.  Ends check over time.  It still
seems to be the wood of choice.  

Boxwood is much more stable and strong, but the wood is only available in 
small pieces.  A six-inch boxwwod log is huge -- it is a small tree to begin
with.

Persimmon is much better, because it is one of the most stable woods.
Harpsichords were made of persimmon for this reason.  It is in the same 
botanical family as ebony, but has pink heartwood.  Unfortunately, it is
seldom seen because the tree grows slowly and is not harvested much 
commercially.  I dry my own from persimmon pruning.

Brazillian rosewood is now illegal to import, although stock imported before
the recent listing as an endangered species is legal to sell.  It is the
showiest wood for planes.  Cocobola is also nice, but irritating to
breathe for most people.  Ironwood makes the best striker buttons.

Lignum vitae is also great for planes.  It is said to have lubricating 
qualities.  Wild grain makes it too flashy for me.  

Fruitwood (apple, pear) is beautiful for planes, but again you will
have a hard time getting it commercially.  Dry your own as I do.

I like James Krenov's book, A Cabinetmaker's Notebook, for its section
on planemaking.  If you take his course at College of the Redwoods, you
will make a plane and blade rough wood and steel.  He is somewhat
selective about who he teaches, according to one former student.  Photos of 
work are submitted for his approval.  I wonder if all those christmas toys
I made would count.  Not ARTSY enough, I am afraid.

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: Nick_Janow@mindlink.bc.ca (Nick Janow)
Subject: Re: Jointer vs Planer
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 01:21:07 GMT

rsoft!agate!ames!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!sdd.hp.com!hplabs!nsc!decwrl!adobe!usenet

> But, this seems to leave me alone in thinking that I'd get the planer
> first. Assuming Tim already has some other tools, like a tablesaw or a
> router, perhaps a hand plane, he has enough to do edge jointing, which is
> what most people use a jointer for.
>
> But, it's a *lot* harder to use these tools to make one face of a board
> parallel to the other.  And, unless you're willing to either have the wood
> you buy planed at a mill, you'll end up making things out of stock
> thicknesses, which is limiting. Also, I've found that the thicknesses of
> boards, even at the same yard, vary quite a bit from board to board.
>
> So, what am I missing?

Maybe you were lucky enough to get only perfectly flat pieces of wood (of
various thicknesses) from the supplier.  If you run the typical bent and or
twisted board through a planer, you get a bent and or twisted piece out of
the planer.  The jointer is designed to do the job critical for most
woodworking: getting one flat face and straight, square edge.

I'd get a wide-bed jointer first, and buy or make a jig to allow it to be
used as a planer.

--

Nick_Janow@mindlink.bc.ca
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: eap@vuse.vanderbilt.edu (Edward A. Parrish)
Subject: Re: Glue choices
Organization: Vanderbilt University School of Engineering, Nashville, TN, USA
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 19:20:53 GMT

In article <WOODWORK%92121414064462@IPFWVM.BITNET> Charlie Griffin <CGRIFFIN@KSUVM.BITNET> writes:
>A little work around the house this weekend brought up a perennial question
>that I need better info on.  I often find myself trying to figure out what
>glue is appropriate for a specific use.  I would like to know if any of you
>know of any summaries of glue types and appropriate uses., especially what
>materials they will and will not work on.  The ability to handle moisture would
>be another factor I'd like to know more about.  I'm interested in applications
>to other materials as well as wood.
>If you've seen any articles, FAQ's, etc., I'd appreciate some references.
>
>Thanks for any info!
>
>--cgriffin@ksuvm.ksu.edu
>Charlie Griffin
Seems to me there was an article on this subject in the
Sept/Oct issue of Fine Woodworking, but I don't have it
here at work. Pretty sure that's the issue.

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

 I am using my Bosch 3 hp in an extension table of my table saw. no
 real problems, except it's sure heavy to lift in and out. I mounted the 
 router on a 3/8" plexiglass 8x13", set into a rabbeted hole in the table.

  The Bosch has both the lever locking arm, and nuts on a threaded rod
  to lock the router at any depth. A little inconvenient to adjust while
  it's in the table.

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: rdc@world.std.com (Ralph D Clifford)
Subject: Delta contractor's saw as a router table
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1992 00:14:56 GMT

     I am in the process of building a new router table.  I always had
trouble with my old table getting the precision right.  After spending
time with a good edge, I determined why--the table surface wasn't flat;
rather, it had an upwards arc in it.

     One option I am thinking about would be to mount the router in the
table board on my Delta contractor's saw with unifence.  This would allow
me to use both the mitre and fence in conjunction with the router.  As
importantly, it would save the space in my shop that would be otherwise
occupied with the router table.

     Has anyone done this and, if so, do you have any recommendations for
or against?

Ralph Clifford
rdc@world.std.com (Internet)



-- 
Ralph Clifford
rdc@world.std.com (Internet)

From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 18:31:39 GMT
Subject: Re: Re: Scraping versus Sanding
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

In article <1992Nov5.102424@wsl.dec.com> gringort@wsl.dec.com (Joel Gringorten) writes:
>
>So then what's my problem?  I hate sanding.  Furthermore, even after spending
>considerable time with increasing grits, there are still some tenacious deeper
>scratches that are still visible left from some of the courser grits.  

   These deeper scratches are simply because you didn't spend enough
   time with the coarser grits.  Yep, that's right.

   You sand with 80 grit, you get some fairly deep scratches.  If you then
   switch to 150 grit, you will NEVER get them out.   That is your problem.

   If you sand with 80 grit, you MUST then switch to 100 grit, and sand out
   ALL the 80 grit scratches.  If you don't, progressing through the grits
   will be a total waste of time.  After the 100, I use 120, then 150, then
   200, etc.   At each step, make sure you get rid of all the previous 
   scratches.

>So, the question is then, is my scraper technique faulty, or are there indeed
>situations where sanding is the only way to get a good finish.

   In spite of some of the almost laughable comments in this string, I still
   insist that I get my best finishes with a scraper.   Now some people
   re-interpreted what I wrote by implying that I do ALL my finishing with
   a scraper, but that is not what I said.   As usual, people read what they
   want to read.

   I sand a LOT.  I use belt sanders, orbital sanders, hand sand-paper, etc.
   BUT, when it gets down to that final step before varnishing, I use a 
   scraper.   This gives me the glass-smooth look I want, and the varnish,
   laquer, etc., doesn't raise the grain as much.  

   I use a scraper on highly figured patterns and I get real nice results.
  
   Of course, before I TOUCH that curly maple with my scraper, I have sanded
   it down smooth with at LEAST a 200 grit sandpaper on an orbital sander.
   Then, I take my scraper and hone a dead flat, straight edge, and 
   touch it with the burnisher with just one or to complete strokes.

   This gives me a barely perceptible edge, and I use it on knotty or
   intricate grain.  There is NO tearout, and the flat (as in texture, not
   geometry) surface left by the sandpaper becomes reflective like glass
   after a few strokes with the scraper.
   
   If you don't know the basics of producing a good surface with sandpaper,
   you might as well forget trying to use a scraper.   Master the sandpaper
   first, then learn how to use a scraper.

   Lately, I have been using my jointer for finishing surfaces.  It is faster,
   and makes a nice face, like a planer, without any chance of sniping.  
Organization: Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 07:52:11 -0500 
From: Ken_Ziolkowski@transarc.com
Subject: another plea for mantle advice


  My wife and I just bought an older (35 years) home
and we have a very nice fireplace in the living room
but it has no mantlepiece.

  I would appreciate any advice, ideas, recommendations,
including books and articles, that anyone out there
can provide.

  The cedar closets will be the second project.

Ken


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: paul.burnett@pcs.sj.ca.us (Paul Burnett) 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: another plea for mantle a
Date: 12 Dec 92 19:41:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: PCS-BBS - San Jose, CA - 408-270-4085
Reply-To: paul.burnett@pcs.sj.ca.us (Paul Burnett) 

TO: Ken_Ziolkowski@transarc.com

K>  My wife and I just bought an older (35 years) home
 >and we have a very nice fireplace in the living room
 >but it has no mantlepiece.

K>  I would appreciate any advice, ideas, recommendations,
 >including books and articles, that anyone out there
 >can provide.

Allow for differential expansion of the wood (presuming you _use_ wood)
mantelpiece - it will swell with moisture in the non-heating season,
and then the fireplace will bake it dry and it will shrink.

Get a big timber and carve it - you and your wife and family can all
"personalize" it.

---
 . QMPro 1.0 41-8688 . ...from San Jose, CA