HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: henrik@stat.tamu.edu (Henrik Schmiediche)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Refrigerator Ice ... yeech!
Date: 7 Jan 1993 21:28:39 GMT
Organization: Department of Statistics, TAMU
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: data.tamu.edu

In article <1ifcheINNml9@agate.berkeley.edu> cnrdean@toxic (Sam Scalise) writes:
>
>PLEEEEZ let me know if you find a solution.  I have had two different
>icemakers in two different fridges in two different houses.  Same lousy
>tasting ice.

According to my father-in-law your problem (lousy tasting ice) and
other problems like smelly ice can be solved by filtering the water.

Why unfiltered water produces lousey tasting and smelly ice I 
do not know.

Never tried it though.

   - Henrik


--
Henrik Schmiediche, Dept. of Statistics, Texas A&M, College Station, TX 77843
E-mail: henrik@stat.tamu.edu  |  Tel: (409) 845-9447   |  Fax: (409) 845-3144
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: p5468knu@rose.hp.com (Phil Knutson)
Subject: Re: Security Systems: Do I need to wire windows on 2nd Floor?
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 18:54:29 GMT
Organization: HP - Systems Technology Division
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.8 PL6]

I have just recently installed a wireless security system for my two story 
home. Based on advice from other neighbors as well as professional security
companies I decided to install sensors only for the four doors leading into
the lower story. The windows will be covered by two motion detectors. 

The thought here is that for many window types (including mine), it is easier
to break into a door than a window. You will want the "immediate" alarm when
the door is open. If entry IS made via a window, is is ilkely that the alarm
will trip before the guy gets all the way in!

The second story should be fine without any sensors. I would think that a theif
would rather use a lower story door, or hit another ouse, than put up a ladder
and work on a second story window. -- Of course an easily accesable balcony
or deck would probably mandate second story sensors as well. - This way I kept
down the cost of the total installation and still have room for expansion in
the future if needed.
From: tvervaek@col.hp.com (Tom Vervaeke)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Cabinet hardware
Date: 7 Jan 1993 21:34:41 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: itchub21.cs.itc.hp.com


I'd suggest using new handles and perhaps putting little trim pieces
behind them. My dad redid his cabinets and put new brass pulls on them.
Behind the pulls he put little brass decorative pieces that covered the
old holes. It works great. Many cabinet pulls can be gotten with this
style. 

Good Luck.


( ___ )------------------------------------------------------------( ___ )
 | / | Tom Vervaeke           Email:tom_vervaeke@hp0800.desk.hp.com | \ |
 | / | Technology Specialist  Snail: 1900 Garden of the Gods Rd.    | \ |
 | / | Hewlett Packard Co.           Colorado Springs, CO 80901     | \ |
 | / | Colorado Springs, CO   Voice    : 719-590-2133               | \ |
 | / | USA                    Fax      : 719-590-2117               | \ |
 | / |--------------------------------------------------------------| \ |
 | / | Quote of the week...                                         | \ |
 |___|           Quote deleted do to lack of creativity !!!         |___|
(_____)------------------------------------------------------------(_____)
   ^                                                                  ^
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Dimmer switches that don't buzz...
Date: 8 Jan 93 05:44:31 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <1993Jan7.025144.19866@msdrl.com> burbaum@msdrl.com (Jonathan Burbaum) writes:
>I seem to recall a thread here discussing ways to avoid 
>that annoying buzz that happens when an overhead-light
>dimmer switch is doing its thing.

>The question:  Does anyone recall the brand (or brands)
>of switch that prevent the noise?  (My local electronics
>store gave me a blank stare when I posed the question to 
>them.)

Generally speaking, dimmers that say that they have noise
filters are what you want.  Though, of course, some are better
than others.  Buy a mid-range one.  Say, 20 or 30 bucks.
The $10 cheapies are NFG.

I've had very good luck with Leviton mid-range or better.  Here
they're about $30.  Eagle (I think) also makes a good slider
dimmer for about the same price.

*Sometimes* the lights themselves are at fault, so swapping
for better quality bulbs sometimes helps.  Sometimes the cheap
bulbs have poor filament supports, and they vibrate.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: sjackson@medicus.com (Steve Jackson)
Subject: Re: Refrigerators
Organization: Medicus Systems Corporation, Alameda, California
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 16:35:13 GMT

krubin@Xenon.Stanford.EDU (Kenneth S. Rubin) writes:
>I am looking to purchase my first refrigerator and would appreciate some input.
>I have researched Consumer Guide and found that they tested models that are 
>different than the one in which I am interested. 

>In particular, I am interested in a 24-25 cu ft side by side. The catch is that
>I do not want the ice and water dispenser through the door. I rarely use ice,
>and I drink bottled water, so for me this dispenser is just wasted space 
>in the freezer. As far as I can tell there is a limited number of models
>available.  The two that I am currently considering are:
>Amana SZ25M2 and Maytag RSD2400A

We didn't want ice or water either.  When we were looking a Consumer's Reports
indicated that they added to maintenance problems, which I guess makes sense.

We bought the Amana SZ25M2 about a 1 1/2 years ago.  (Does PG&E still have
the rebate program going on?  Saved us $100.)

>The problem is that I keep getting conflicting information from sales people.  
>The Amana seems to be available in just about every store that I visit. It
>has the proper features, color and an acceptable price.  However, I have been
>told by the representatives of several stores that do not sell Amana that
>the Amana product is poorly constructed (this is the reason they give for not
>carrying the product to begin with). These stores try to sell me the Maytag.
>Then the story reverses and the other dealers tell me that the Maytag
>is a piece of junk that Maytag doesn't even manufacture, but simply puts 
>their name on.

>All of this is enough to drive someone crazy!  I figure I could put this
>all to rest if I could get some unbiased, personal observations from people
>who have experience with these refrigerators.  I would be very interested 
>in hearing from people who own either Maytag or Amana refrigerators.  
>I am interested in how well you think these machine function and how loud 
>it is when it is cooling.

We like our Amana very, very much.  Not a single problem, no complaints.  (Well,
actually a design suggestion: the crisper drawer has a nice square corner on it.
If you try to close the door with the drawer still out, like I've done
innumerable times, the drawer corner digs into the rubber door gasket.  A
rounded corner would've been nice.)

The design, colors, gadgets, etc. is not exactly trendy, but I don't
want that.  Has all the right drawers, adjustments, niceties, that we wanted
(and want).

As for noise, it sits on hard linoleum right in the middle of the kitchen,
with no cabinetry around it, nothing to dampen the noise.  The only reason
I notice when the compressor kicks in is because our electrical wiring is
extremely old and the lights dim.  Otherwise its pretty quite.

Just be warned that this fridge is a pretty big box (but that's what the
wife wanted!).

Steve Jackson
sjackson@medicus.com
From: rrw@sunset.cse.nau.edu (Bob Wier)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: CREDIT REPORTS: They don't know the diff. between Jr. and Sr.?
Date: 4 Jan 93 23:08:54 GMT
Distribution: usa
Originator: rrw@sunset.cse.nau.edu

From article <buck.726165123@granite>, by buck@granite.ma30.bull.com (Ken Buck):
> 
> wait a minute!
> what about different unrelated people with the _same names_ (regardless
> of any Jr. and Sr. suffixes)?  do they assume there will only be one
> "John Smith" in the whole state?!  something sounds a little strange here.
> maybe you're just dealing with a *really* rinky-dink credit bureau?
 
  Here's a real nightmare for you - when I was in Grad school in Texas,
  there was another fellow in school with the same name, except for 
  middle initial.

  I had a knock on the door at 9PM one night, and it was the sheriff who
  tried to arrest me!  Turned out this guy had been bouncing hot checks
  all over town and using MY ADDRESS -

  Fortunately I was able to convince 'em that I wasn't him - I had
  a different driver's license number.  

  I won't tell you how many years that took to straighten out with the
  credit bureau which were involved...

- Bob Wier

  ---------- insert favorite standard disclaimers here ----------
                   College of Engineering
      Northern Arizona University, Flagstaff Arizona
  Internet: rrw@naucse.cse.nau.edu | WB5KXH | fax:602 523 2300
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: guest@ian.stx.com (Guest)
Subject: Refrigerator Ice filters (a ques??)
Organization: STX, Lanham Maryland
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 16:36:25 GMT

To: henrik@stat.tamu.edu
Subject: Refrigerator Ice filters (a ques??)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Organization: STX, Lanham Maryland
Cc: 
Bcc: 


When I was growing up my parents bought a refrigerator/freezer that had
an ice maker.  I liked the convience of having the ice available but I 
was displeased with the taste of the ice that was produced.  My
wife and I have recently bought a house and have been considering
replacing the lovely mustard colored refrigerator that doesn't have an
ice maker with a model that does.  I still have reservations because of
my previously mentioned ice maker story. Recently I was flipping
though a hardware store advertisement and noticed that they make filters
specifically for ice makers that are in line with the pipe running
between the ice maker and the water supply. 

Has anyone tried these filters?  The one model that was advertised was
approximatly $8.00 are all of them this inexpensive?  Can anyone
recommend certain brands and where to purchase them?


Thanks in advance,

Bill (zmwjc@charney.gsfc.nasa.gov)
From: wb8foz@skybridge.SCL.CWRU.Edu (David Lesher)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Gray flexible water supply pipe OK?
Date: 9 Jan 1993 21:22:49 GMT
Organization: NRK Clinic for habitual NetNews abusers - Beltway Annex
Reply-To: wb8foz@skybridge.scl.cwru.edu (David Lesher)
NNTP-Posting-Host: skybridge.scl.cwru.edu

Others said:
#  * 	STAY AWAY FROM IT AT ALL COSTS !!!
# But if you do it right, it should be fine. The connectors are much improved
# now. I've heard the horror stories, and I plan to put it in my new
# house.

Note that in perusing home warranty agreements, they all seem to
exclude polybutylene pipe & fittings. 

Yous pays your money & yous takes you chances.....
--
A host is a host from coast to coast..wb8foz@skybridge.scl.cwru.edu
& no one will talk to a host that's close..........................
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: vanderkw@mpr.ca (Mike Vanderkwaak)
Subject: Using Plastic to Seal Basement Floor!?
Keywords: Moisture, Basement, Seal, Plastic.
Organization: MPR Teltech Ltd., Burnaby, B.C., Canada
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 93 17:15:51 GMT


I'm finishing a family room in our basement and I'm ready to put carpet
in. However there is moisture that comes in through the floor.  I know
this is the case because when I leave a bucket on the bare floor for a
couple of days there is moisture collected underneath - enough to
discolor the concrete and to feel with a finger.

I've been following the thread on basement sealers (if anyone has a
summary I'd be appreciate a copy) but the following idea occured to me:

Use heavy grade UV treated plastic ie 6 mil. and cover the whole floor
with it. Put carpet underlay over top and then carpet.  This would solve
the moisture problem - no?

Anybody have any thoughts on this idea or perhaps have tried it
themselves?


------------------------------------------------------------------------------
       Mike Vanderkwaak           |     MPR Teltech Ltd, 8999 Nelson Way,
    vanderkw@mprgate.mpr.ca       |       Burnaby, B.C. Canada V5A 4B5  
  uunet!ubc-cs!mprgate!vanderkw   |   Tel: (604)293-5494 Fax: (604)293-6157
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: cnrdean@toxic (Sam Scalise)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: MIND IN THE GUTTER
Date: 12 Jan 1993 20:45:03 GMT
Organization: U.C. College of Natural Resources
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: toxic.berkeley.edu

Ok.  Leaves in gutters are bad.  What is a good way to keep them
out?  If you use screens, you still have to clean out the gutters
occasionally because some stuff gets through the screens and builds
up in the gutters.  Plus, the screens get clogged up with leaves,
rotting next to the shingles.

I've tried rigid metal screens, mounting them in such a way that I
can remove them.  Works ok, but they fall to the ground
occasionally.

Lately, I've use the plastic screen, stapling them to the wooden
shingles.  They lift up pretty well when I try to clean the
gutters.

I'm interested in how most people keep leaves out of their
gutters.  Also, interested in what you folks are using for gutters.
Mine are original wooden - narrow as crap.  I plan to replace them
with heavy-duty steel.  Guess I'll have to solder them together.  
Now way I would use plastic ones -- look cheap.

Good thread.
Sam
Xref: sparky misc.consumers.house:16665 misc.forsale:35207
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 15:06:14 EST
From: <DMARSH@wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,misc.forsale
Subject:    Porcelain shower head for sale

I've got a brass and porcelain shower head left from a bathroom renovation.
It's about 5" at the bell.  It's in both the Renovators' Supply and JC
Penney catalogs.  Retails for around $50.  I'd like $30.  It's had water
through it, but only a couple of times.  I'll pay shipping.

Debbie Marsh <dmarsh@wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: mja@philabs.philips.com (Michael Amato)
Subject: Re: BTU content of various fuels?
Originator: mja@hercules
Reply-To: mja@philabs.philips.com (Michael Amato)
Organization: Philips Laboratories, Briarcliff, NY 10510
Distribution: misc
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 15:21:39 GMT


In article <1993Jan11.165943.28947@sco.com>, rogerv@sco.COM (Roger Vortman) writes:
|> 
|> I am trying to find out what the BTU and therm contents of a gallon of 
|> natural gas and a gallon of liquid propane is.  My house is heated
|> with propane, and I am trying to compare with what I used
|> to pay when I had natural gas in order to be able to see where I am
|> relative to insulation.  If anyone has this information, I would really
|> appreciate seeing it. 
|> 
|> Thanks.
|> 
|> -Roger

This was posted on Nov. 4th. by Charles Hill:

Article: 38735 of misc.consumers.house
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: chill@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (charles.f.hill)
Subject: Heating Comparisons
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 92 15:13:34 EST
Keywords: heat btu cost


I had posted some formulas a few days ago that allows one to compare
costs for heat alternatives (oil, electricity, etc.).  Thanks to
Donald Perley, I now have some additional information, and he also
caught some mistakes that I had made.  Soooo- I have redone everything
and it is below.  Trash the initial version and replace it with this.

The formulas allow you to compare the cost of different
types of heat depending on your local rates for fuel and electricity.
All results are in $ per million of BTU and efficiencies are decimal
numbers (i.e. .71).

What you need to start with are your local rates, for example, these
might be typical----

		Gas - $.35/therm
		Oil - $.85/gal
		Elect - $.11/kwh



Here they are------

GAS		100 cu ft ~ one therm = 100,000 BTU

		Cost per MBTU = [(cost per therm) x 10] / eff.

OIL		One gallon = 140,000 BTU

		Cost per MBTU = [(Cost per gal) x 7.15] / eff.

ELECTRICITY	1 KWH = 3,413 BTU

		Cost per MBTU = [(cost per kwh) x 293] / eff.

			Note - for electricity, efficiency would normally
				be 1.

OTHER INFORMATION

		LP (liquid Petroleum)

			93,000 BTU per gallon for bulk
			22 Therms per 100 pounds for bottled gas

		Wood

			Mixed hardwoods - 24 MBTU per cord
			Softwoods - 15 MBTU per cord


				Chuck



-- 
+-----------------------------------------------------------------+
| Michael Amato  DoD#0639 | "If pro is the opposite of con,       |
| mja@philabs.philips.com | then what is Congress"? - Will Rogers |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (patterson,george r)
Subject: Re: Basement Carpeting.
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 93 20:16:03 GMT

In article <C0E8Hn.2tM@news.rich.bnr.ca> kdesai@bnr.ca writes:
>
>1. Can I fix the baseboard such that it touches the concrete floor. Is 
>   there any code that prevents me from doing so. What are the advantages
>   and disadvantages of doing it this way ?

Yes you can. There are two disadvantages. You may get a rot problem
because of moisture coming through the concrete. If you've sealed the
floor well, this shouldn't occur. The second problem is that the baseboard
will appear shorter once the carpet is put down. Because of this, most
baseboard is installed a half inch or more above the floor in any room
in which carpet is planned.

>2. I am going to get someone to install the carpetting for me. But I want
>   to get recommendations of what type of carpet I should install. How
>   will the installer affix the carpet to the concrete floor.

Normally the carpet tack strips at the edge are nailed down with concrete
nails. In very hard 'crete they'll shoot them down. The installer then
lays the padding in place, using two-sided tape or counting on friction
between the pad and the concrete to hold it in place. The remainder of
the installation is usually exactly the same as it would be in wood floor.

Amateurs generally buy a carpet with a built-in pad and glue it directly
down to the concrete with something like "Liquid Nails". When the carpet
needs replacement, they sell the house to some other poor sucker.

If you are fixing the house up to sell it, invest in the best quality
pad - it's not much more expensive - and relatively cheap carpet. New
owners have a tendency to change the color anyway. You also might pick
colors that go well with several wall colors. For example, I just redid
one of my bedrooms. It is now painted a light green, and I put in a
blue-green carpet. This goes with the green but would also go well
with blue or some yellow paints.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | If you take a dog which is starving and feed him
George Patterson -  | and make him prosperous, that dog will not bite
                    | you. This is the primary difference between a dog
                    | and a man.             Samuel Clemens
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: rotheroe@convex.com (Dave Rotheroe)
Subject: Re: Security Systems: Do I need to wire windows on 2nd Floor?
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 23:43:22 GMT
Organization: Engineering, CONVEX Computer Corp., Richardson, Tx., USA
Keywords: Security system, alarm systems, burgler alarms, home security
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by a user at CONVEX Computer
              Corp. The opinions expressed are those of the user and
              not necessarily those of CONVEX.

>Is it necessary to wire windows on a second floor?  I've done a rough
>evaluation of the entry points on my home and came up with 16, NOT
>including the 2nd floor windows. Since this is a pretty good number with
>respect to what the companies offer, I'd like to keep it that way.
>I did include a 2nd floor glass door because it is potentially
>accessible via a balcony.  What is the general consensus from those who
>have experience with a home security system? (Either D-I-Y or
>professionally installed).

How much protection do you want?  If you're building this house, go ahead
and wire it, as it won't cost much, especially if you're doing it yourself.
Also, some insurance companies give discounts for burgular alarms that may
vary in percentage depending on having contacts on openable windows.  Texas
has legislated a manditory minimum discount for meeting certain criteria,
which includes contacts on each window/door.

>Also, one other question, is it possible when wiring the windows to do
>it in such a way that the window can be left open, say 4 inches or so,
>and if the window is moved I get an alarm? Seems like this would be
>possible by putting 2 magnets on the window, one in the closed position
>and one at the 4" open position.

That's exactly what I'd do if I wanted that, but there's no need to - just
bypass the zone that window is on.  A professonal either is going to hit
your house so fast they don't care if you have an alarm, or they will
bypass it the alarm system.  An amateur is going to trigger one of your
interior motion detectors.

==================================================================8--<
Dave Rotheroe                rotheroe@convex.com              DoD#0045
CONVEX Computer Corporation, Richardson, TX 75083-3851, (214) 497-4512
A day without sunshine is like...   night
From: andyt@intermec.com (Andy Tiura x1807)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: bathroom fan summary
Date: 12 Jan 93 16:40:39 GMT
Reply-To: andyt@intermec.com (Andy Tiura x1807)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Intermec Corporation, Everett WA

Whoa!  I must have missed the original posting but I can't let a blanket 
indictment of NuTone go by like that....

NuTone sells a series of exhaust fans: the QT series, which are extremely
quiet and long-lived.  The QT-80 is approx 80CFM, the QT-110 is 110CFM, etc.

They have two different lines of products:  the cheap crap installed by most
builders and sold to homeowners who really don't care (and indistinguishable
from the Broan, AirCare, and an assortment of virtually identical products) and
their "upscale" line, including the QT series.  The high-grade products cost
much more, have lifetime warranties, use larger motors with vibration isolation
bushings and substantial bearings.... and they are really QUIET.

I'm really happy with mine!
-andyt

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: clos@trentu.ca (CHRIS LOS)
Subject: Need Advice on Cleaning Old Bath Tub
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: Trent Computing and Telecommunications Department
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 15:58:00 GMT


I have an old bath tub with a serious build up of that white/yellowish  chaulky 
residue due to a hard water condition.  It is a rather disgusting sight at 
the moment and no regular household cleaner I've tried will come close to 
removing this chaulky crust.  I was wondering if any one out there might 
have some suggestions on how to effectively remove this stuff so the enamel 
beneath is visible again.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house