HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: keys@starchild.ncsl.nist.gov (Lawrence B. Keys)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: [W] Installing an Oil Pressure Gauge on a 16v engine
Date: 30 Dec 92 14:02:09 GMT
Organization: National Institute of Standards & Technology


Hi,

Has anyone out there installed a VDO (electrical) Oil Pressure gauge/
sender on a VW 16v engine, while retaining the idiot light/buzzer?

I bought via mail order a "Night Design" electrical
pressure gauge (150 PSI), and a "Dual" sender (operates gauge and 
idiot light).


Problem:

According the the Bentley manual there are 2 oil pressure switches. A
0.3 bar pressure switch which provides warning when the oil pressure
falls to near zero at any time, including at idle.  A 1.8 bar pressure
switch (1.4 bar on diesels) provides earlier warning, at elevated
rpm, whenever oil pressure falls below a minimum save level.  This is
for all Golf/Jetta (GTI & GLI's) 1985 - 1992.

On most water cooled VW's one of the switches (low pressure)
is located high on the engine block, while the other switch (high
pressure) is mounted on on the oil filter flange.

On 16v engines both oil pressure switches are located on the oil filter
flange.  My question is, which switch do i replace? How can i tell which
is the "high pressure" and which is the "low pressure"? Does it matter?

Thanks,

                                                  .  
                                                 /                
Larry                            __/    _______/_                 
keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov       /                  \               
                          _____     __     _____    \------- ===
            ----------- / ____/   /  /   /__  __/              \
         /     ___    /  / ___   /  /      / /    ____          |
        |    /      \/ /__ /  | /  /__  __/ /__ /       \      / 
        /___         \_______/ /_____/ /______/            ====OO
            \       /                           \       /         
                -                                   -
       ---------------- FAHRVERGNUGEN FOREVER! --------------------            
            The fact that I need to explain it to you indicates
            that you probably wouldn't understand anyway!
       ------------------------------------------------------------
From: andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: OEM vs 3rd party mufflers [A][W]
Date: 28 Dec 92 17:23:14 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Brandeis University

In article <BzrMov.KpA@umassd.edu> rgolen@UMASSD.EDU writes:
>In article <1992Dec23.201714.6753@linus.mitre.org>, m17108@mwunix (Jason Douglas) writes:
>>
>
>Stuff Deleted....
>
>>The Request
>>     Please post theoretical considerations, experience with 3rd party
>>mufflers, and if they exist, better places to mail order mufflers.  I've
>>been reading the net for a couple of months now and haven't seen a similar
>>discussion.  I hope this starts a good thread!
>>
>>Jason (jdouglas@mitre.org)
>

I've had OEM, Leistritz and OEM exhaust systems on my car.  In NE
exhaust systems _always_ go after 2-4 years so durability was a
concern (not enough to go Midas, not that the warantee is worth
anything anyway).  The Leistritz was nice, a leetle bit more power, I
don't think it was noticeable to me.  The OEM (VW dealer) was cheaper
and came with lifetime warantee (if installed by them, although the
parts mgr guranteed it to me personally since I installed myself).

I haven't used the warantee yet.

-andy
From: dlovely@meaddata.com (David Lovely)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: 16v Scirocco
Date: 31 Dec 1992 08:50:51 GMT
Organization: Mead Data Central, Dayton OH
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: tteam.meaddata.com

In article <1992Dec29.200747.12912@cybernet.cse.fau.edu>, wolfsond@cse.fau.edu (Dan MC^2 Wolfson) writes:
|> 
|> A few Scirocco (87 16v) Questions:
|> 
|> 1) When I take off the gascap, I always hear sucking of air rushing
|>    into the tank... Is this supposed to be like this?  
|> 
|> 2) Sometimes when I am done driving and turn the car off, I hear a 
|>    small humming sound coming from the rear of the car near the filler
|>    pipe (gas)..   Is there some pump staying on?  It eventually does
|>    turn off after about 3 minutes... 
|> 
|> 3) The car gets hot really fast.  When I drive for 20 minutes, the 
|>    idiot guage is almost at the top (no blinking led though) and
|>    the engine temp guage is around 100-110cels.  

I've got the 8v version of the 1.8 in my Cabrio (also 87) & here are my obervations:

#1) Yes.  The fuel tank is under vacuum.

#2) What you might be hearing is the vacuum in the fuel tank slowly being released.
    Try pulling on the gas cap without turning it to see if the noise changes.

#3) My warm up times are as follows:
	Temp guage moving up scale in <2 minutes
	Oil temp reaches 80C in 5~7 minutes and full operating temp (80~100C) within
		10 minutes
	Full water temp reached in <10 minutes.

This is true even in winter weather.  Fortunately, I've got a really good heater in this car
(better than the old '78 Beetle ;-))

-- 
*******************************************************************************
David P. Lovely					      BOYCOTT BARBRA STREISAND!
Mead Data Central	       Don't Blame Me.  I didn't vote for Slick Willie.
Dayton, Ohio						       Vote KEMP in 96!

Fun VW is spelled C-A-B-R-I-O-L-E-T

"Government isn't the solution to our problems, government IS the problem!"
	-Ronald W. Reagan

		NO DISCLAIMER NEEDED (Nobody claims me anyway!)
*******************************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: zowie@daedalus.stanford.edu (Craig "Powderkeg" DeForest)
Subject: Re: Pictures of Beetle needed
Organization: Stanford Center for Space Science and Astrophysics
Date: 22 Dec 92 12:22:03

In article <foo> tsh@lesti.hut.fi (Timo Hyv|nen) writes:
   I'm planning to cut the roof off my old Beetle and now I'd need
   some kind of pictures of it to plan the whole thing. 

Be careful about this.  The bug has a semi-monococque design
(precursor to unibody), and a lot of of frame's rigidity comes from
two arches of extra thick metal that curve up over the car, through
the roof.  They come up through the thick struts between the rear side
windows and the rear window, and arch over on each side of the roof,
up to the struts around the wind- shield.

I cut the roof off my old bug (so it would fit in through the door :-D )
and discovered that the newly-converted convertible was *very* flexy.
Like, I could make the floor bend elastically just by bouncing up and
down in the middle of the car.  I would definitely not drive it under
these conditions.  You should weld big steel beams to the underside of
the belly pan, or something, for rigidity.

Getting the roof off was pretty straightforward: pull out the windows,
and attack with hacksaw.  There are six roof supports: front, middle,
and rear, both sides.  I cut at the base of all of 'em -- but you
probably want to re-mount the windshield when you're done, so you'd be
cutting across the top of the front of the car.  [the windshield is
another candidate for reinforcement: the front struts are just tubes of
formed sheet metal: not so good when you cut the roof off and
concentrate all of the stress from the wind, at the bottom of the
windshield.]

Here in the States, you can buy beetle conversion kits that include the
roof assembly.  If you're interested, I could find out how to order one
from a local supplier here in the San Francisco area.
--
DON'T DRINK SOAP! DILUTE DILUTE! OK!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: ballan@fraser.sfu.ca (Bruce Allan)
Subject: Re: [W] Vanagon tires
Organization: Simon Fraser University, Burnaby, B.C., Canada
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 20:59:53 GMT

I'm presently running Michelin XZX 185 R 14s on the front of our 75
Westphalia.  They are marked as a reinforced tire.  This is the second
time we've had them installed and they work well.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: zowie@daedalus.stanford.edu (Craig "Powderkeg" DeForest)
Subject: Re: '74 emissions-HELP!
Organization: Stanford Center for Space Science and Astrophysics
Date: 3 Jan 93 21:21:42

In article <foo> "Douglas S. Brashear" <db6j+@andrew.cmu.edu> writes:
   Well, every December is state inspection time for me and my '74
   SuperBeetle...this year, among other things, the emissions failed.
   The requirement in PA is 600 hydrocarbons...unfortunately mine was 
   around 1300.  The CO2 and CO were all under the limit, so they're okay...
   I think the idle RPM's were 1200 or something.

   Well, here's my question...what should I do about the HC's?  I had the
   emissions inspected 6 months ago (I was a bit late...unfortunately that
   wasn't an acceptable excuse for the cop who gave me the ticket for not
   having it inspected) and it passed okay.

Well, I had a similar situation with my '73 regular beetle.  I'd just tuned it
too, so it was running really well.  (Be sure and tune yours!)  The guy at
the place where I went was really nice.  He sat and dicked around with it
for a looong time to get it right.  Generally, lean it out until it almost 
won't run, then retard the timing until it almost won't run.  As soon as it
passes, you can rich up the mixture and advance the timing, so that you can
drive home.

In general, you'll get extra hydrocarbons if you have low compression in one
or more cylinders.  In my case, it was a cracked head, which I found out
about four months later when I took the things off.  (given the rather huge
canyons in the heads, I was surprised the damn thing ran at all!)  If your
compression is low, it's probably rebuild time anyway.



--
DON'T DRINK SOAP! DILUTE DILUTE! OK!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: Re: [A] VW Bug survivability in hot climate?
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 1992 12:32:51 GMT

In article <eric.8@eeco.cba.ufl.edu>, eric@eeco.cba.ufl.edu (Eric E.C. Olson) writes:
>
>I live in Florida... mighty hot summers.  A friend of mine used to have a VW 
>Bus, and she said that she used to blow head gaskets in summer, and have 
>lots of overheating problems.  She didn't have an oil cooler.
Blow Head Gaskets??? At least on an aircooled motor, I think not. The
most that would happen is overheating...dropping a valve..or
scoring bearings..they can't blow head gaskets because they don't
have headgaskets. Although the 36 hp and early 40 hp had little
copper/paper seals between the cylinder jugs and the heads to
keep exhaust gasses from comming into the heater system in the
days before the "fresh-air" heaterboxes.



>
>Should I worry about this before buying a Bug?  Should I install an oil 
>cooler?  Any strong feelings about which one?  or where?
>
Unless you are driving your bug all day at 100 mph plus, or have covered
up your air intakes, an oil cooler is unnecessary. Type IIs (busses,
campers, etc) had more of a cooling problem than bugs did because
they were heavier and their air intake system (at least on the pre-
68 models) were a bit ineficient. If you do need to get an oil cooler
get a copy of Hot VWs or VW Trends there should be plenty of them
there.

Ric Golen



>Thanks!
>
>Eric
>
>Oh yeah, any mail order parts houses you particularly like or hate?
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: morton@gaul.csd.uwo.ca (Brent Morton)
Subject: Re: Splitting this Group (Not!)
Organization: Computer Science Dept., Univ. of Western Ontario, London, Canada
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 00:44:32 GMT

In article <1241@bazooka.amb.org> ti@bazooka.UUCP (Ti Kan) writes:
>The last thing we need is yet more newsgroup proliferation.  It is a simple
>matter to indicate clearly in the subject title whether the topic is
>water-cooled related or air-cooled related.  Please, don't split the group.

I agree with you. The topic indication in the subject title is used with a great
deal of success in other groups, such as *.aquaria, where users add an [F] or
an [M] to the subject line to indicate a fresh- or marine-water topic.

-- Brent
morton@artifis.gaul.csd.uwo.ca

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mso26892@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Tal )
Subject: Re: Need info on '90 Passat
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1992 09:48:03 GMT
Keywords: Passat 90

mso26892@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Tal ) writes:

>Hi all,

>   I'm in the market for a used car at around $9000 and was offered a '90
>.....
>... advance.

>Minsuk

Hi again, any comments on Passat '90 will be greatly appreciated if you
could email me at < mso26892@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu >.  

Minsuk
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: lagrangj@unvax.union.edu (purplehaze)
Subject: [A] brakes suck in my '63
Organization: Union College, Schenectady, NY
Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1993 23:24:22 GMT

My brakes, in my '63 Bug, don't work.  At all.  Once, weeks ago, I bled them 
and they magically returned, I figured "No problem, just air in the lines."
Today they failed and I bled them (in a parking lot in 15 degree F weather),
but absolutely no improvement.  I suspect the master-cylinder, which I hope
I can replace myself, does anybody have any ideas on how to pinpoint what else
the problem could be?  Should I go nuts and replace the wheel cylinders, too?
I want to do this quickly, and w/out my mechanic's help.
Thanks in advance.

-- 
Josh LaGrange                  *                    
lagrangj@unvax.union.edu       *           (cute stuff deleted  
Phone: (518) 370-6908          *
The views that I express are shared by very few responsible people.
From: kiviat@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Brian Kiviat)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: [w] Dashboard Lights
Date: 22 Dec 92 12:26:37 GMT
Reply-To: kiviat@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Brian Kiviat)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

I have an '86 GTI.......On the way to work this morning, I noticed the
light on the tach side of the instrument panel was out. I've got the
manual at home but.....Anybody replaced this before? Easy....tips...hard?
Thanks in advance........

   O
   I\   Brian Kiviat (301)227-1833
   I \  kiviat@oasys.dt.navy.mil
  /     David Taylor Model Basin
   \___________________________
			     \\
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: morton@gaul.csd.uwo.ca (Brent Morton)
Subject: Re: High Mileage (was Re: VW Truck Question)
Organization: Computer Science Dept., Univ. of Western Ontario, London, Canada
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 07:42:01 GMT

In article <kkr2xz#@rpi.edu> bossoj@aix.rpi.edu (Joseph Charles Bossolini) writes:
>In article <1992Dec21.050652.6940@news.nd.edu> dfulton@handel.helios.nd.edu (Dave Fulton) writes:
>>	By the way, 115,000 miles is nothing for a VW.  Just ask people
>>on this group how many miles thier VW has, I bet you get thousands (at least
>>a hundred) of responses from people bragging about their miles.
>
>My 82 Audi 4000 diesel has 242,000 miles with no major engine work, except a new
>water pump, clutch, and belts.
>
>I hope to have it on the road when it turns over 300K (maybe in 1 1/2 or 2 
>years!)

My '84 4000 has 285 000 km (178 000 miles), and a '79 Rabbit Diesel of mine
went 565 000 km (353 000 miles), at which point I sold it to someone who 
intended to drive it every day.

-- Brent
morton@artifis.gaul.csd.uwo.ca
From: tomh@wes.on.ca (Tom Haapanen)
Subject: Re: '72 vw beetle info needed...
Organization: Waterloo Engineering Software
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 00:26:38 GMT

> newark@befvax.uchicago.edu (Tom Newark) wrote:
>> 5) how do you use the windshield wiper fluid?  I know about the hose to the
>>    spare tire (what a great idea) but where is the button for it.  My wind-
>>    shield wiper knob is missing the center and I assume you probably pressed
>>    it to activate the fluid... Is this right?

jgladu@bcm.tmc.edu (grungy (John F. Gladu)) writes:
> Contrary to the other answers I've seen so far, *my* '72 Super Beetle had
> the valve in the wiper control arm mounted on the steering shaft.  If you
> have a '72 I would assume that you have a turn-signal arm on the left side
> of the steering wheel and a wiper control arm on the right side.  By
> pulling up (toward the steering wheel) gently it should activate the valve.

Hmmm.  My '72 Super had the same thing (my '71 Type 3 had a knob, though).
Could it be that Supers had the wipers on a stalk while Standard Beetles
had a knob?  I'll have to check my references...

[ \tom haapanen    "i don't even know what street canada is on" -- al capone ]
[ tomh@wes.on.ca                   "trust the programmer" -- ansi c standard ]
[ waterloo engineering software      "to thine own self be true" -- polonius ]
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: tgpt_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Tom Guptill)
Subject: Re: [w] Dashboard Lights
Organization: University of Rochester - Rochester, New York
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 92 18:25:41 GMT


	Before you go to all of that trouble, try pounding on the dashboard
(hard!).  I have to do this to my Rabbit on occasion.  It's sure a lot
easier than taking everything apart.  Hope this helps.

	

	Tom

-- 
| Tom Guptill           | tgpt_ltd@cc.rochester.edu (internet) |
| CPU Box 277445 U of R | tgpt_ltd@uordbv (bitnet)             |
| Rochester NY 14627    |                                      |
| (716) 274-0156        |                                      |
From: co940@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Nicholas E. Damato)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Q: will an '81 1.7L diesel fit in a fox?
Date: 30 Dec 1992 19:12:06 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


Hello,
perhaps the subject on my previous message wasn't clear,
(message #11086) I have a rebuilt VW diesel engine and i was
curious if anyone had any knowledge or experience with putting
the 1.6/1.7 rabbit engines in a Fox.
eny info would be appreciated.
 
Thanx,
nick.
From: hemenway@ll.mit.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Oxygen Sensor: Life and Death
Keywords: oxygen sensor, vw
Date: 21 Dec 92 14:20:58 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: MIT Lincoln Laboratory

OK Fahrvergnugern:

What's the real story on the life and death of an
oxygen sensor?  What happens when they die? Do
they take other parts of the exhaust system 
(to hell) with them or do they just produce a rough 
idle (purgatory it is)?  Does replacing them entail risk of 
expensive-to-remove broken parts and mangled threads?  
Finally, where can I mail-order a VW-spec sensor for 
the fewest $$ if you talk me into replacing it myself?

My '84 GTI has 97000 miles, is on its first and only 
oxygen sensor and the car runs just fine.
However, the OXY indicator light just came on for the
third time and I'm mulling preventive intervention.
The GTI drank mostly 90 octane during its childhood
years but now, in late adolescence, is drinking 89 
since 87 gives it the knocks. 

Thanks for your replies.

-Roe. <hemenway@ll.mit.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: ereddy@morgan.ucs.mun.ca (Ed Reddy)
Subject: Re: [W] Snow tires vs. All-season radials
Organization: Memorial University of Newfoundland
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1992 14:23:20 GMT

In article <ILH.92Dec23152308@polar.lcs.mit.edu> ilh@lcs.mit.edu writes:
>In article <BzotBE.20w@umassd.edu> rgolen@UMASSD.EDU writes:
>
>Sure, a good winter tire will maximize your performance in snow.  The
>trouble is, in many parts of the country (ie., Boston), most of the
>winter actually has clear roads.  I don't believe a winter (snow) tire
>will maximize performance on clear winter roads.  I would tend to
>think that an all-season tire would perform better.  Is that true?  By
>choosing a winter (snow) tire, you're sacrificing performance during
>most of the winter and gaining performance when it is actually snowy
>and slushy.  I don't think it is as cut-and-dry as you make it sound.
>It really depends on how often the roads are clear.
>
>                                Lee Hetherington
 
Sacrificing performance? Tell me. When your going around a turn with
your all season tires on, and you loose grip in the slushy roads into
the path of a plow, are you scarificing performance? 
 
It's winter time. You shouldn't be driving the same as one does in the
winter. Sure, the roads might be clear, but cold roads do not have the
same gripping traction to rubber as it does in the summer. Regardless of
what one has on their VW, your only going to get about 65% grip on a 15
Degree (F) day compared to 100% on a 85 F day.
 
Winter tires make sure you get that grip. 155 80 R13's are excellent for
the older Jetta and Golf models. Why? More pressure on a smaller surface
area means better plowing aside of snow and slush, and the better chance
your tire will grip to the cold pavement.
 
Ed Reddy
@morgan.ucs.mun.ca

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: achenbac@epcot.spdc.ti.com (Jeff Achenbach)
Subject: Re: '72 vw beetle info needed...
Organization: TI Semiconductor Process and Design Center
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 19:24:16 GMT

In article <1htafhINNohn@agate.berkeley.edu> map@violet.berkeley.edu (Pollen Lab;103 ESB;38108;;NZ29) writes:
>In article <1992Dec24.005802.158@midway.uchicago.edu> newark@befvax.uchicago.edu writes:
>>
>>2) the car seems to have a rear window defroster, but I can't seem to find 
>>   the switch for it... does anyone know anthing about these?  Is it an 
>>   aftermarket product or were they an option and does anyone know how 
>>   to use it?
>>
>I've been impressed by the variety of locations suggested for the switch
>to this thing!  Mine is close to the steering column under the dash area
>('69 bug).
>
>Living in coastal California, I'd kind of forgotten about the rear defroster,
>until a friend asked me what the green light on her speedometer panel meant.
>Naturally, my first thought was "oil", so I put on a sad expression when
>she said it stayed on continuously!  Luckily, it wasn't *that* light.
>
>In my car, the green light (higher on the panel than the oil light) is the
>only way to tell if the rear defrost is turned on--it's never melted frost....
>

My '74 Karmann Ghia had a rocker type switch on the dash.

Jeff Achenbach
From: gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca (Andy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: catalytic converters..
Date: 21 Dec 92 15:10:01 GMT
Organization: Math, Stats & CS, Dalhousie University, Halifax, NS, Canada

In <BPL4VB1w164w@ham.almanac.bc.ca> emd@ham.almanac.bc.ca writes:

>mferdows@aludra.usc.edu (Mehrzad Ferdows) writes:

>> 
>> quick question... a friend of mine has a 90 GTI, and is moving to Canada.
>> He wants to know if there will be any problems if he simply removes his
>> catalytic converter, and replaces it with a pipe. Is it that simple, or
>> must other adjustments be done?
>> 


>Depends on where in Canada he moves to. In most of Canada there's no 
>vehicle inspection, hence no problem - for now, anyway. In B.C., if you 
>live on the lower mainland (around Vancouver, OK?) you need your car 
>inspected by the "Air Care" program, and if it's been removed, you won't 
>pass. 

>(The rest of B.C. is still exempt from pollution inspection).

>I'm not sure what level of inspection other provinces have got to, but it 
>varies from little or none to this. 

>Your friend should check with the DMV in the province he's going to.

Nova Scotia on the atlantic coast requires an inspection every year. They 
are so picky that they did not pass my car because one light for the licence
plate would not work. I had to get the whole housing for $25. You need a cat
around here. The only cars that are exempt from this is cars that were originally
biult without one.

Andy

>Robert Smits            | Water? I don't need no steenking water!
>emd@ham.almanac.bc.ca   |
-- 
---....-------------****----*******-) GTI FUN-atic                      o  
--. \/ .-----GTI---******--*********)         Don't forget to bike:     ,-\
--.\/\/.-----------******--*********)  (and sail and windsurf and ski)  0\-0
---....-------------****----*******-) gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca,goaway@ac.dal.ca