HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: pollack@dendrite.cis.ohio-state.edu (Jordan B Pollack)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Incra jigs
Date: 28 Aug 92 18:45:36 GMT
Article-I.D.: dendrite.POLLACK.92Aug28134536
Reply-To: pollack@cis.ohio-state.edu
Distribution: na
Organization: Ohio State Computer Science
Originator: pollack@dendrite.cis.ohio-state.edu


>I stand by by my statement that the accuracy after resetting is only 
>as good as you can recreate it (whether to a zero position or to a previous 
>position).

Of course, once the router bit has chewed up the fence, you can only
re-align by eyeball, but if you load a long steel rod in the router,
you can align to the undamaged part of the fence.

>If this is accurate enough for the work you're doing (and I'm not saying it 
>isn't), then you don't need the Incra-Jig. A good tablesaw rip fence is 
>probably sufficient (maybe better if you've got a micro-adjuster on it) - if 
>you're using your tablesaw extension as your router table, of course.

The problem the incra jig solves which a normal fence does
not is accuracy in "REPEATABILITY," without micro-adjusting.

CLEARLY, what we all need is a combination digital/analog rip fence,
with a disengageable digital control, either a leadscrew/quarter-nut
combination or a double rack combination,



-- 
Jordan Pollack                            Assistant Professor
CIS Dept/OSU                              Laboratory for AI Research
2036 Neil Ave                             Email: pollack@cis.ohio-state.edu
Columbus, OH 43210                        Phone: (614)292-4890 (then * to fax)
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Thu, 3 Sep 1992 09:37:11 EDT
From:         dave talaga x2752 <talaga@E5SB.OSDHW.SYR.GE.COM>
Subject:      Re: CAREFUL WITH THAT PROPELLER!!!!
X-To:         WOODWORK%IPFWVM.BITNET@pucc.princeton.edu

> I have the MLCS speed controller which sells fo $39.95. Your observation that
> "100 % power does not equate to the power it seems to have plugged into the l
> wall" is correct if you have the same unit because they use a half-wave device
> which delivers a maximum of half power to the load. Interesting also is that
> the power device itself is rated at 8 amperes; it can be used with 15 amp
 loads
> only because the half wave output makes the average current 1/2 of what would
> be measured with the load plugged into the wall. Also, I found that the outlet
> on the speed controller was wired backwards; i.e., hot and neutral reversed.
> This could be a safety hazard under certain conditions.
>
> Full wave speed control circuits are well known but I don't know of commercial
> speed controllers that use them; they must exist however perhaps from
> industrial
> al
> suppliers. I'f your handy with electronics you can build one yourself. The
> performance is IMHO substantially better.
>
> Bob Avery
> attmail!javery
>

Bob,

Thanks for the technical info.  Again, it's one of those things I meant to look
 up but...

If you have plans for a full wave circuit let me know.  I'd be interested in
 building one, considering the cost of a new 3 hp VS plunge router.

Dave Talaga

BTW: The MLCS controller does not have a soft-start feature; IMO, I think it's a
 critical feature when using big plunge routers (all the care in setting up the
 router for the "plunge" is lost when you start that baby).
From: stevem@gold.gvg.tek.com (Steve Miller)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Plans for Food Dehydrator
Date: 1 Sep 92 18:52:05 GMT
Organization: Grass Valley Group, Grass Valley, CA

In article <1771@grivel.une.edu.au> scampbe1@metz.une.edu.au (Stephen Campbell) writes:
>I'm interested in building a food dehydrator from scratch. I would be
>glad to here from anyone who has attempted such a project so I acn
>swap some ideas and plans.
>
>
>Steve
>
	Me too!  I can't believe they want so much for something that does
	so little.  However, I have no idea where to start, so can I tag
	along, please?

Another Steve
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Steve Miller, Grass Valley Group, Grass Valley, CA. 95959, Mail stop N32B
916-478-3059, stevem@gold.gvg.tek.com.  The Six Phases of a Project:
  1. Enthusiasm  2. Disillusionment  3. Panic  4. Search for the guilty
  5. Punishment of the innocent  6. Praise and reward for the nonparticipants
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 4 Sep 1992 08:15:07 PDT
From:         BALDWINJ@SJSUVM1.BITNET
Subject:      glue removal question
              3 Sep 1992 23:55:07 GMT from Howard Moss
              <hmoss@HPNMDLA.SR.HP.COM>

From: Jeff Baldwin
San Jose State University, Department of Geology
If you are trying to remove glue from a previouly glued fracture. I have had
good luck with a wire brush attached to a moto-tool. My work is small (I am a
luthier) but using a wire brush to clean a break that has failed because poor
gluing has saved a number instruments. Youll want a gap filling glue to follow
the glue removal. Alephatic resin (Elmers yellow glue) has moderate gap
fillingqualities. If a lot of wood is removed epoxy would be good bet.
Good luck!
From: jm@faron.mitre.org (Jeffrey P. Manosh)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Table Saw Advice
Date: 3 Sep 92 20:38:40 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Research Computer Facility, MITRE Corporation, Bedford, MA

I've been interested in the JET tablesaw line, particularly the
JET JTS-10JF. Does anyone own one or have any experience with one.
If so, please send me your thoughts.    Thank you
                                Jeff Manosh
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 28 Aug 1992 10:49:06 EDT
From:         Doug Cutler <UNCDWC@UNCVM1.BITNET>
Subject:      Soffit Vents.

   I wish to thank all the poeple who have responded to my inquiry on
Soffit Vents.  Armed with all this usefull information I am now calling
the contractors from whom I have estimates asking them to justify their
recomendations!!!!!


  Doug. Cutler                       Office of Information Technology,
  VM Systems Programmer              University of North Carolina.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: rlw@IDA.ORG (Richard Wexelblat)
Subject: Re: BANDSAW INFO REQUIRED
Organization: IDA, Alexandria, VA
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 92 10:46:10 GMT

billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson) writes:
: M21605@mwvm.mitre.org writes:
: 
: : cheapo tools.  I should add for the record, the Delta 14" is US made and
: : the castings are done in Wisconsin.  Most of Delta's US made tools use
: : Brazilian castings made using tropical rainforest wood for the coking
: : process.  If you are like me, you might want to check with the factory
: : on the origin of the castings on the product you are considering before
: : unknowingly helping to defoliate the rainforest and unemploy our countrymen.
: : I better sign off now before I provoke a riot!
: 
: Bah! Do you eat meat? Do you drive an automobile? Do you use imported woods
: in any of your projects? If so - then you are directly, or indirectly, helping
: defoliate the rainforests and "unemploy" or countrymen.
 ...etc

...and what do you do about the burgeoning industry of farming tropical
hardwoods in the Ycatan and Quintana Roo?  Shall we put them out of
business?
-- 
--Dick Wexelblat  (rlw@ida.org) 703 845 6601
  This message is not copyright.  Please feel free to use it
  in any context, at any time, with or without attribution.
  Quotes out of context and parodies are encouraged.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: Dave Larsen <dal@boombox.micro.umn.edu>
Subject: Re: SUM(sort of) about straightening plywood edges.
Organization: University of Minnesota
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1a2
     <1992Aug28.152950.819@informix.com>
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 13:41:44 GMT


>From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
>
>If the vibration still occurs, you can try blade stabilizers - such as
those
>sold by Sears. They will cut, to some extent, blade induced vibration,
as 
>well as reduce blade whine.
>
Get GOOD blade stabilizers if you decide to use them. The ones I used
(they came free with a blade I bought) were made of cast aluminum. They
actually induced error in my saw cuts. I threw them away.

-Dave-
From: shaw@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Shaw Moldauer)
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1992 23:39:33 GMT
Subject: new/old oak
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

	My wife has a top cabinet for a china hutch. I started to build
the base some time ago. I finally completed the drawers and am excited
about the doors (that means I should finish soon). What concerns me is
the new oak, old oak delemma. How do I get the two pieces to look as
if they go together? I would like a light oak, but the old oak has
darkened somewhat. I don't want walnut and I'm not going to paint.
	Thanks for any insight.......

					-Shaw
From: pauld@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com (Paul Davis)
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 20:24:00 GMT
Subject: Re: need belt sander recomendation
Organization: Hewlett Packard - Boise, ID
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking


> I am faced with having to sand several boards, that are bonded together,
> flat on one side.

I won't try to talk you out of buying a belt sander, but I have always
solved the problem you are facing by taking my glued-up panels to a
cabinet shop and sending them through their wide-belt sander.  The
shop I use has a 36"-capacity sander.  If the stock I am gluing up is
fairly flat, I don't even surface it first.  After glue-up I scrape off
all the excess glue with a sharp paint scraper, then haul them to the
cabinet shop.  I try to prepare all the panels for several months worth
of projects at one time.  At the shop I do all the work except setting
up the sander.  They start with 36 or 80 grit, depending on the quality
of the existing surface and the amount of thickness I can spare, then
go up to 150.  At that point I can finish sanding the panels with an
orbital sander.

For this service the cabinet shop charges $1 per minute, but they are
incredibly generous in their estimates.  Once it was free, and the most
I paid was $10, and that time I sanded seven big panels and even used
their big jointer on a couple of them.  Perhaps I was lucky to find
this particular shop--later I found a different shop nearer my house,
but they refused to even consider sanding my panels for me--they
said they couldn't risk a $70 sanding belt.  Many shops don't have
wide-belt sanders, especially 36" ones, which can cost $20,000 and
require mammoth dust collectors and compressors.  Most shops I've
contacted charge $35 an hour, with a one-hour minimum.  Even at that
price, it's a good deal.

I suspect many cabinet shops would turn out to be like the good one
I stumbled on, if you take the time and energy to cultivate a 
relationship.  I was very careful to take in clean panels that would
not damage the belts, I did the lifting and carrying, and I showed an
interest in the work they had in progress.  I like to imagine, also, that 
they admired the careful job of stock-selection and grain-matching I
had done.

By the way, Christian Becksvoort, a contributing editor of FWW, gets
his panels surfaced the same way I do, and recommended the practice 
in his article of several years ago on creating glued-up panels.
From: brill@unagi.cis.upenn.edu (Eric Brill)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Water and Wood: A beginner's question
Date: 31 Aug 92 20:59:17 GMT
Organization: University of Pennsylvania


I'm new to woodworking.  This weekend, I tried to make a maple cutting board.
I edge glued two pieces of 4/4 maple together, and then routed a cove along the
sides.  I finished the piece with a nut-oil finish.  Then came the problem.  I
figured that I had better raise the grain and sand it down again so when I gave
the board away it would remain smooth after washing.  So, twice I briefly
soaked the board in water and sanded it down.  I later noticed that this caused
the board to cup considerably.  Could somebody please tell me what I did wrong?
If the water caused the board to cup, how can I raise the grain without causing
this to happen, and how can I protect the board from cupping when the future
user decides to wash it?  Thanks,

-Eric


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: kfitzsim@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Kevin Fitzsimons)
Subject: Re: Morten Mortise and Tenon Jig
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 12:56:13 GMT

In article <WOODWORK%92082220054056@IPFWVM.BITNET> "Lawrence E. Rondot" <RONDOT
@IPFWVM.BITNET> writes:
>I talked to my local woodworkers supply shop about this thing.  They listed
>it in their catalog last year and I was working on a table that it could have
>been useful.  The owner said he listed it after he saw a great demo at some
>convention/vendor party.  He said they got a few in, and they tried to do a
>demo for a customer.  They gave up after a couple hours tring to get the
>thing set up properly.
>
>Now I don't really have time to play around tring to figure out how to out
>smart a piece of equipment.  This guy is TALENTED with all kinds of tools and
>he told me to forget it.  I'll believe him.
>
>I ended up just taking the time to set up my router table correctly.
>
>Larry Rondot     Rondot@IPFWVM.Bitnet  -or-  Rondot@SMTPLink.IPFW.INDIANA.EDU

I have the Morten jig and it is a very quick and easy way to do door panels, 
small door frames and any right angle joinery. It takes about three minutes to 
do both the mortise and tenon. I love mine and for about $50 it is pretty 
cheap.
From: stevep@lugh.se.hou.compaq.com (StevePinnDick)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Help w/ paste wood filler
Date: 31 Aug 92 14:18:49 GMT
Organization: Compaq Computer Corporation

In article <168547D53.SDOGGETT@cmsa.gmr.com>, SDOGGETT@cmsa.gmr.com writes:
|> From time to time, I've been experiencing a problem when using paste wood fille
|> r.  The problem is scratching thesurface when removing the filler.  I'm allowin
|> g it to dry until the "wet look" is gone.  I've removed it with the recommended
|> method of burlap across the grain.  This causes the least amount of scratching.
|>   Another method is to use a credit card as a scraper.  It's an easier way, yet
|>  is more likely to scratch.  My guess is there's abrasive in the filler it's s
|> elf.  Does anyone have any advise?  Also, there are times when the filling proc
|> ess it's self just doesn't seem to fill the grain.  I never notice this, of cou
|> rse, until I spray the lacquer.  I'm tempted on trying a spray saning sealer in
|> stead.  Thank you in advance for your help.
|> 
|> Spencer Doggett

Spencer, 

Although I have never experienced (or noticed) the problem that you describe I will take the opportunity to offer a couple of suggestions.

1)  I thin filler with naptha to the consistancy of milk!  Very thin.  I brush this on and let it haze over, then as you mention, I use burlap to remove the excess.

2) After allowing at least 12 hours of drying time I hit the surface lightly with 220 grit paper.

3) Stain.

4) Apply 2 light coats of sanding sealer, sanding with 220 (lightly) after the first coat and 320 after the second.

Spraying just sanding sealer will not fill in the pores completely.  If you choose this route the process is to spray 2 coats of sealer sanding in between.
  Then spray your topcoat, sand off as much top coat as possible without sanding through.  Spray / Sand / Spray / Sand.  The idea is to fill the pores with lacquer, as missing the pores and adding to the top coat is inevitable you must spray and sand until the pores are filled to the topcoat.  Painful process!

I have read that this method does have a drawback in that the lacquer filling the pores will eventually shrink causing surface imperfections.

BTW, what type of wood are you using?

Regards - Stephen
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jhp@sactoh0.sac.ca.us (Jim H. Puga)
Subject: SUM(sort of) about straightening plywood edges.
Reply-To: jhp@sactoh0.SAC.CA.US (Jim H. Puga)
Organization: Sacramento Public Access Unix, Sacramento, Ca.
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 92 13:21:09 GMT

Well, thanks to all those who responded to my inquiry about smoothing
edges on plywood.  From the response I received, I guess I didn't 
get across my original question.  I guess I'll explain why I asked my
question in the first place, with the gory details.

I've "tuned" my saw about the best I can.  The practice cuts that I have
made seem to be pretty close to what I wanted.  I figured if I couldn't
get the cuts exact(I was ripping a 4'x8' sheet of veneer plywood), I would
rip maybe with an extra 1/8" and route to a smooth and even(level) cut.

It's a good thing I did this because it is very difficult to keep the
sheet straight while running it against the blade.  I did have some
"dips" in the cut but I figured that when I routed, that would alleviate
the problem(Aside from buying the bigger table, how have you folks managed
to get around the "moving sheet of plywood, while ripping it" problem?).
As noted in my earlier message, that didn't go to well as the router bit
chipped out the veneer and did a pretty louse job of routing.  

Most of the suggestions I received said to make the accurate cut the first
time(see above for problem).  Others said I could plane the edges down
or sand them.  I'll have to see which one works.  Thanks to all who 
responded.

BTW, I have the Delta contractor's saw and have another question.  When the
saw is running, it seems to run smoothly with no problem.  When I turn it
off, it starts to slow down and everything is ok.  Eventually, something
appears to get out of balance and the whole saw starts to vibrate.  The
best comparison I can come up with would be a washer.  When the washer 
starts its spin cycle, if the clothes are balanced, the washer will come to
a nice, even stop.  Should the clothes gather on one side while the cycle is
going, it will start to jump since the tub is out of balance(I hope this
makes things clearer).  Anyway, is this a problem with my saw(if it is,
what's wrong and how do I fix it) or is just a quirk of every saw?

Thanks again to all who have and will respond to my questions.

-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------
- jhp@sactoh0.SAC.CA.US    What else can I say?             -
-------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: steveh@m2xenix.psg.com (Steve Hampson)
Subject: Re: Frequently Asked Questions about Electric
Organization: Pacific Systems Group, Portland Oregon US
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 18:21:09 GMT
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL3

apoyner@as.arizona.edu (Tony Poyner) writes:
: 
: Could you explain what _Service Factor_ for an electric motor is?
: 
: I have just paid an arm and a leg for a new furnace blower motor because
: it required SF of 1.25 instead of 1.0.

The section titled "Electric Motor Terminology" in my Johnstone Supply
catalog states:

	Service Factor - Number by which the horsepower rating is multiplied
	to determine the maximum safe load that a motor may be expected to
	carry continuously.
-- 
Steve Hampson                       steveh@m2xenix.psg.com
17624 Schalit Way                   home (503) 636-6966
Lake Oswego, OR  97035              work (503) 222-9571
USA
From: stevep@lugh.se.hou.compaq.com (StevePinnDick)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Black Lacquer finish?
Date: 31 Aug 92 20:41:31 GMT
Organization: Compaq Computer Corporation

In article <16852C24F.SYSGAM@SUVM.SYR.EDU>, SYSGAM@SUVM.SYR.EDU (Glenn A. Malling) writes:
|> In article <1992Aug24.202514.26573@cbnewsl.cb.att.com>
|> piz@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (G G ZIPFEL) writes:
|>  
|> >        Is there a "Black Lacquer" product?
|> >
|> >        Help!
|>  
|> If what you're looking for is the black piano finish it's just
|> black nitro-cellulous lacquer.  See you local auto paint store.
|> It's the same stuff they put on GM cars before the acrylics
|> became common.
|>  
|> Glenn A. Malling (SYSGAM@SUVM) or sysgam@suvm.acs.syr.edu
|> Syracuse University Computing Services   +1 (315) 443-4111
|> Machinery Hall  Syracuse, New York 13244-1260

I believe that polyester lacquers are used on most pianos today.  Glenn is correct with indicating that black nitro cellulose is readily available.   Hydrocoat has a black sanding sealer and black gloss water based lacquer available.

Although I have never worked with black Hydrocoat but I have finished several projects with clear.  I was able to bring about a "piano" gloss finish on Hydrocoat clear lacquer using Meguires #1 automotive polishing compound  and a high speed polisher (read grinder)

Steve
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Wed, 26 Aug 1992 07:15:31 PDT
From:         BALDWINJ@SJSUVM1.BITNET
Subject:      glued-up panels or solid panels???
              26 Aug 1992 04:04:22 GMT from "Freeman A. Kilpatrick"
              <fkilpatr@AFIT.AF.MIL>

From: Jeff Baldwin

When using solid wood one uses glued up panels to control wood movement.
To minimize problems with movement a wide board would be ripped in into
strips  (3.5" in 4/4 stock sounds right) every other strip would be turned
so the natural forces in the board would be neutralized and therefore more stab
le.  I am a guitar maker and a look at luthier books about guitar making would
give a more detailed explaination of cutting and gluing wood to minimize move-
ment.
From: daved@convex.com (David Dorfman)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Morten Mortise and Tenon Jig
Date: 3 Sep 92 16:07:43 GMT
Article-I.D.: convex.daved.715536463
Distribution: na
Organization: CONVEX Computer Corporation, Richardson, Tx., USA
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by a user at CONVEX Computer
              Corp. The opinions expressed are those of the user and
              not necessarily those of CONVEX.

In <3779@ecicrl.ocunix.on.ca> clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis) writes:

>One further warning about the bit.  The real shank is much smaller than 1/4".
>A split sleeve is slipped over the real shank to hold the bearing in place
>against the cutters.  If the router collet isn't cranked down good and tight
>the sleeve will start rotating on the real shank, and overheat everything
>*very* fast.  And mak the depth of cut vary.  My bit is slightly burnt from
>this.

This is very true, I would like to see the two piece shaft "go away". Does 
anyone know of a 1/2" shaft version of the ball bearing bit required for this jig? 

I have gone through at least 3 of these bit's both HSS and the carbine versions.
It is also a ral problem loosening the collet when you are done with the bit.

I would like to see this bit done with a true 1/2" shaft.

Dave
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Fences & Hold-Downs
From: jocon@tribiet.maintech.com (Joe Connors)
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 92 17:40:25 PDT
Organization: Tribiet: A city much like hell.

        With the recent discussion about after market table saw
fences, this brings to mind a question I have had for some time.
I currently have the Delta 10" Contractors saw but I am
anticipating the purchase of a Powermatic #66 saw with the
Biesemeyer fence. I am currently using the Jet-Lock fence on my
Delta saw along with "Leichtungs" anti-kickback hold-downs. They
work great and would not want to be without them. My question is:
Will the above hold-downs, or any spring type hold-downs, work
with the Biesemeyer fence? If anyone out there in "Net-Land" is
using the Biesemeyer fence with any hold-downs, I would
appreciate your comments on how well, if at all, they work. I
will post the results to the net. Thanks!
 
 
 
 
 
                                Joe Connors
                                Carlsbad, CA
                                (619)431-9028
 
What is the sound
of one hand clapping?......:)
 
================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking