HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: withrow@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov (JAMES WITHROW)
Subject: Dust Collector Static
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
Distribution: na
Date: 13 Apr 1992 12:55 EST  

I had a conversation with a friend who bought a 2 HP Dual Bag 1182 CFM dust 
collector about 1 month ago.  He used PVC pipe for the runs overhead and 
flexible plastic to his machines.  I ask him if he had a static problem, 
since I had read about such problems in magazines and on rec.woodworking.
He said yes, it was something he ran into, and it was hair raising, 
literally.  As he would get closer to the plastic pipes, his hair would 
start to stand on end.  The overhead pipe would cause his hair to stand 
straight up.  The solution, as you could guess, was to run a copper wire 
(he used antenna wire from Radio Shack) throughout the pipes and ground 
one end.

He also found out that the plastic pipe which ran from the blower to the 
bags, had the same problem (this is part of the dust collector).  So he ran 
a wire in it and that solved the static there.

He didn't mention anything about being shocked from the static buildup, 
but I didn't ask.  I would think that you could be.  It should act like the 
same shock you give your wife or dog after you walk around with wool socks 
on the carpet and touch them on the nose, but much stronger.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jim Withrow                         |    
NASA LeRC  MS: 333/2                |  
21000 Brookpark Rd.                 |
Cleveland OH  44135                 |   I can't spell and I don't care!
(216) 433-8315                      |     withrow@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jrm@cis.ohio-state.edu (John R. Mudd)
Subject: Bandsaw cross-cutting performance
Originator: jrm@stegosaur.cis.ohio-state.edu
Organization: The Ohio State University Dept. of Computer & Information Science
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1992 18:14:41 GMT

Does anybody care to comment on a bandsaw's ability to crosscut and rip?

I'm looking for a nice, general-purpose saw, and was wondering if a
bandsaw can do reasonably nice crosscuts (I'll define 'reasonably nice'
as straight but needing some sanding before glueup) and ripcuts.  At 
some point in time, I'll buy a quality tablesaw, but I really don't
have space right now nor do I have the woodworking experience to justify
the cost.

The two machines I've been looking at are the Delta 28-245 (14") and the
Inca 340 (10.5"), so if the owners of either of those machines care to
comment, that'd be especially welcome.

Thanks,
... John

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stevenj@microsoft.com (Steven JOHNSON)
Subject: Jet tool price increase?
Date: 08 Apr 92 18:33:26 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp.
Keywords: Jet prices up

In my neverending search to get the lowest price on a 
Jet tool, I ended up speaking with a Jet factory rep
from their headquarters in Tacoma, WA.  The rep told
me they were discontinuing alot of the mail-order
distributors because those guys were always trying to
undercut each others prices, and that was too hard on
the local distributors who had to stock Jet stuff on
their showroom floors.  I interpret this to mean Jet
prices will be going up soon (if not already.)

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: fred@mks.com (Fred Kratky)
Subject: Table Saw belt alignment
Keywords: how?
Organization: Mortice Kern Systems Inc., Waterloo, Ontario, CANADA
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 19:32:12 GMT

I have been having some trouble with motor alignment on my new table
saw.  I originally thought it might be belt tension but no longer do.

What is the most reliable way to align the motor pully properly with the
arbor pully.

The problem I have with mis-alignment is that it seems to cause
excessive power draw on startup (I asume from excessive belt friction)
and I keep blowing fuses (yes I am using the proper delay fuse).
The fuses only blow on startup (after ~ 3 seconds).
-- 
     ||  // // ,'/~~\'   Fred Kratky		fred@mks.com 
    /||/// //|' `\\\     Mortice Kern Systems Inc.     (519) 884-2251
   / | //_// ||\___/     35 King St. N., Waterloo, Ont., Can. N2J 2W9
0_/
From: davids@hpsdde.sdd.hp.com (David Schwantner)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Misc. gossip
Keywords: Sears, Ryobi, Delta
Date: 14 Apr 92 20:48:14 GMT
Article-I.D.: sdd.1992Apr14.204814.5133
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, San Diego Division
Originator: davids@hpsdde.sdd.hp.com

I had heard a couple of things recently from the owner of a very good
tool supply and blade sharpening buss. here in S.D., and I wanted to
throw them out for any confirmation, denial, or comment.

First, the owner said they will stop selling Ryobi equipment. He said that,
although it is excellent stuff in general, it is extremely difficult to get
any replacement parts that are necessary, even on very new models. Has this
been the experience of other Netters?? I also wonder whether, if this is true,
this will somehow be bad news for Sears, whom I have also heard is going to
start OEMing Ryobi stuff in mass. Any comments???

Second, the owner said something about Delta selling its power tool buss. to
a Taiwanese company. He suggested that if you wanted a Unisaw, buy it before
it is too late. This is the first I have heard of this, so I won't believe 
it or let it effect me until I see it confirmed. Any comments??? 


-----------------------------------------------------------------------
David Schwantner - Hewlett-Packard - San Diego Site
Internet : davids@sdd.hp.com / davids%hp-sdd@nosc.mil or @ucsd.edu
Snailmail: 16399 W. Bernardo Dr., San Diego, CA 92127, USA
(619) 592-8650
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: rainer@spot.Colorado.EDU (Rainer Malzbender)
Subject: Chewing up paint with my planer
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 21:52:42 GMT

Last weekend I demolished our 30-year old deck in preparation for the new
one. It was poorly constructed, but made out of some very nice redwood,
which had been covered with two layers of thick paint. There are some
nice thick beams (4-8, 6-8, etc.) which would be worth salvaging.

Would there be a problem with running the stuff through my Ryobi AP-10?
I did one small piece and the results are spectacular. A new set of blades
costs about $30, so even if it trashes them I wouldn't care, as long as no
other ill effects occurred. Anyone done this?

-- 
Rainer Malzbender 
Post-doc, Physics
U. of Colorado, Boulder (303)492-1366              rainer@shelley.colorado.edu
From: fwc@cbnewsi.cb.att.com (frank.w.camposano..jr)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Paint Spray Guns
Keywords: info
Date: 10 Apr 92 00:45:20 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: AT&T

I have been considering purchasing a paint spray gun 
to use with my compressor.  My first project is to spray
some pine with metal grill radiator covers I have just
finished building.  They will be sprayed with a white enamel
paint.  There seems to be a big price spread between spray guns
and different style heads.  I would also like to use it on some
future woodworking projects utilizing stains.  Are there different
types of guns for stains verses paints? What should I look for
when comparing spray guns?  I would be interested if anyone
knows of recent articles on the subject.  I have a pretty hefty
compressor ( 3 1/2 hp delivering 125 psi with a 25 gallon tank)
so that should not be an issue.

Thanks in advance and happy woodworking !
 __________________________________________________________
/_________________________________________________________/|
|Frank Camposano  - AT&T Bell Laboratories, Freehold, NJ | |
|              (908) 577-4408                            | |
|Opinions are my own and do not represent my employer in | |
|any way.                                                | | 
|________________________________________________________|/
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mmf@evolving.com (Mark Mason Frazier)
Subject: Re: Dust Collector Static?
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 18:20:27 GMT
Organization: Evolving Systems, Inc.

stevej@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com (Steve Johnson) writes:
: I would : be interested in hearing any first person accounts of a problem with an
: un-grounded system.

Last year WOOD magazine ran an article on building your own dust collector system.
They made a big point about grounding the system if you use PVC piping for the duct
work. I would imagine that they wouldn't have gone to so much trouble if they didn't
think it was a real danger. Beside, there are enough hazards to worry about in the
shop without having to worry about it blowing up the next time you flip a switch
(my shop is in the basement, and my wife would get really mad). I have a northwest
2 HP dust collector, and haven't set up the ductwork yet, so I'm just using a 12
foot fexible hose and moving it wherever it needs to be when I'm working. I haven't
noticed any problems, but I usually only touch the on/off switch. Denver is really
bad for static (especially in winter, when you gain an appreciation for why the
Eskimos rub noses before kissing) and I would have noticed a problem by now if
there was one.

MMF
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: buchholz@noao.edu (Nick Buchholz)
Subject: Drill Press Recommendations and experience
Organization: National Optical Astronomy Observatories, Tucson, AZ, USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1992 15:04:25 GMT

I'm planning on buying a drill press in the near future and need to hear
anyone with experience using the delta Radial drill press. 

Also if anyone has dealt with Harbor Freight's Central machinery DP's or
trendlines'  Reliant DP I'd like to hear from you to.

Reply buy mail and I'll summarize


Nick C Buchholz
buchholz@yogi.tuc.noao.edu      | "Time is an illusion, Lunchtime doubly so"
                                |                            - Ford Prefect
Time is an illusion perpetrated by the manufacturers of space.
From: phil@eos.arc.nasa.gov (Phil Stone)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Reference requested: "Workbench Book"
Date: 8 Apr 92 00:34:37 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: NASA Ames Research Center, CA

I saw mention of a book called "The Workbench Book" here
a few weeks ago.  Assuming that it would be easy to find
at my favorite bookstores, I didn't take down any detailed
information about it.  Could somebody supply the following
information?

Full title, author, publisher, [isbn #, if available]

Please email to avoid duplicate postings.  Thank you very much.

	Phil Stone  (phil@eos.arc.nasa.gov | ...ames!eos!phil)
From: kb13+@andrew.cmu.edu (Ken Burner)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Dust Collector Static?
Date: 6 Apr 92 18:53:03 GMT
Organization: Comp & Comm - Hardware Systems, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA


    A friend just purchased a 2HP dust collector for his shop, along
with 50ft or so of 4in flexible plastic hose and assorted plastic
elbows, tees, blast gates, etc to hook it up to his equipment.  Nowhere
in the documentation for the dust collector do they mention static
electricity or steps that should be taken to avoid the consequences of
static buildup in plastic ducts while the device is in operation. 
However, I recall reading dozens of articles on this newsgroup
describing this phenomenon and how people have actually threaded copper
wire through the ducts to keep static to a minimum.
    Now I'm wondering, if the dust collector manufacturer doesn't even
mention static in its user booklet, how big a problem is this, really? 
Have you yourself or anyone you know been involved in a static-related
"event" in a home woodshop?  How many people out there are successfully
running dust collectors, using plastic piping, without any special
static precautions (go ahead, you can tell me)?
    I'm very interested in actual experiences here.  Please respond to
me directly and I'll summarize to the net in a future message.
    Thanks.

    -Ken Burner
     Carnegie Mellon Computing Services
From: lfischer@dartagnan.rutgers.edu (Lfischer)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Sears router problem--Am I alone?
Date: 9 Apr 92 17:17:51 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.



>I have the rame router, same age.  I have only used mine a couple dozen times
>but I have had *NO* problems (other than the obvious ones related to latent
>inability and feeble-mindedness).

Wait, I have the 1 horse router and I experience the same thing!!
inability and feeble-mindedness that is...

Larry Fischer
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: obrien@coag.serum.kodak.com (John O'Brien (x37279))
Subject: Re: Cordless Drill
Summary: Panasonic's 15 min recharge worth it.
Organization: Clinical Products Division, Eastman Kodak Company
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1992 16:23:23 GMT

In article <1992Apr8.180349.15951@usenet.ins.cwru.edu> aa558@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Mario Alemagno) writes:
>
>I just purchased a Panasonic 12 volt Cordless which I am very
>pleased with.  I did have one question that I hope others
>may be able to share experiences with me to answer. 

At a recent woodworking show here in Rochester, I looked over the Panasonic
cordless drills and worked over the vendor pretty good. The advantage that
the 12 volt, 15 minute recharge system has over the others is that it delivers 
a lot of power and only requires 15 minutes to recharge. Some of the larger
tools, such as the 1/2 inch drill, may require more power for some applications.
Also, panasonic is suppose to be coming out with a whole line of cordless tools
which will run off of their 12 volt system. No need to buy the whole system, 
just the tool itself. That way one power recharger and possibly an extra battery
could power a whole assortment of cordless tools.
	My overall evaluation of their equipment is an "A". It seems as though 12 volt is the system of choice with many vendors. Panasonic seems to be on top
of this and offers a quality product.
	When I save up enough money, I plan on purchasing this system as well.

	John O'Brien  -  fellow woodworker  -
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: laforce@xenon.arc.nasa.gov (Soren LaForce)
Subject: Re: Sears router problem--Am I alone?
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.3-4   
Reply-To: laforce@xenon.arc.nasa.gov
Organization: NASA-Ames Research Center
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1992 18:07:10 GMT

In article <1992Apr7.101343.1@scivax.stsci.edu>, anderson@scivax.stsci.edu writes...
>I have a Craftsman 1.5 hp router, 1 year old, whose (#$%@! plastic) fan self-
>destructed this weekend.  This is only the fourth time I have even used the
>thing.
> 
>Anyone else have this problem?  Is it a chronic, well-documented flaw in these
>tools, or am I just an unlucky person?  I am asking because it looks like it
>will not be trivial for me to repair myself, and I am hoping that Sears will 
>cut me a break on the repairs if this is a common failure mode.


I have the same router, but about 5 years old.  I bought mine for routing
fiberglass and now use it for wood.

I haven't had any problem like yours, but I an not too impressed.  The
bearing are a little sloppy (this may be from the f-glass) and the overall
workmanship is so-so.

Personally, I have been unimpressed with all craftsman power tools I've
owned (RAS, belt sander*, router*, timing light).  In fact, the more recent 
hand tools have somehow felt sleazier too.  (* bought for f-glass work)

On the other hand, if you do fix it yourself, I have always been able to 
get parts for Sears products (i.e. drive gears for a fairly old outboard
motor).  Sometimes they have to order from Chicago and it takes a few 
weeks...



--Soren            laforce@xenon.arc.nasa.gov
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: majewski@spsd630a.erim.org (Ron Majewski)
Subject: For Sale: Brad Point Drill Set
Organization: Environmental Research Institute of Michigan, Ann Arbor, Michigan
Distribution: usa
Date: 5 Apr 92 23:03:28


For Sale: ShopSmith 14 piece brad point drill set & case
          3/16in through 1in -- 1/16in increments
          A few years old, but unused (found buried in garage)

     Why: An inheritance that duplicates what I now have

  Asking: $100, including UPS COD shipping to your doorstep

 Contact: Ron Majewski
	  majewski@erim.org    (313) 994-1200 x2480 (days)

          Thank you!
--

Ron Majewski (majewski@erim.org)

The Environmental Research Institute of Michigan

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: harrism@aquila.rtp.dg.com (Mike Harris)
Subject: Re: SCROLL SAW PATTERNS
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 92 12:48:57 GMT
Reply-To: harrism@dg-rtp.dg.com
Organization: Data General Corp., Research Triangle Park, NC

In article <77740001@hpcvia.CV.HP.COM>, mikea@hpcvia.CV.HP.COM (michael_allen) writes:
|> Good luck at finding any-one to respond to your request. I also posted to this
|> group a while back looking for any information on scroll saw patterns and saw
|> my post slowly die of old age. If you get any other postings besides mine you
|> should count your blessings. 

	That's not very nice! I find the participants here very helpful
	and responsive. I would suggest instead that nobody has scanned
	their patterns. Think about how huge they'd be - both to scan
	and to print. Perhaps you we could send you our patterns and
	you could scan them in and set up the ftp site? We'd appreciate it.

Mike Harris - KM4UL                      harrism@dg-rtp.dg.com
Data General Corporation                 {world}!mcnc!rti!dg-rtp!harrism
Research Triangle Park, NC
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: c2k@ham.slc.mentorg.com (Carl Ketcham)
Subject: Re: Bandsaw cross-cutting performance
Date: 16 Apr 92 15:21:58
Distribution: na
Organization: MGC

In article <1992Apr16.181441.3025@cis.ohio-state.edu> jrm@cis.ohio-state.edu (John R. Mudd) writes:

   Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Path: news.mentorg.com!uunet!cis.ohio-state.edu!stegosaur.cis.ohio-state.edu!jrm
   From: jrm@cis.ohio-state.edu (John R. Mudd)
   Originator: jrm@stegosaur.cis.ohio-state.edu
   Sender: news@cis.ohio-state.edu (NETnews        )
   Organization: The Ohio State University Dept. of Computer & Information Science
   Distribution: na
   Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1992 18:14:41 GMT
   Lines: 16

   Does anybody care to comment on a bandsaw's ability to crosscut and rip?

   I'm looking for a nice, general-purpose saw, and was wondering if a
   bandsaw can do reasonably nice crosscuts (I'll define 'reasonably nice'
   as straight but needing some sanding before glueup) and ripcuts.  At 
   some point in time, I'll buy a quality tablesaw, but I really don't
   have space right now nor do I have the woodworking experience to justify
   the cost.

   The two machines I've been looking at are the Delta 28-245 (14") and the
   Inca 340 (10.5"), so if the owners of either of those machines care to
   comment, that'd be especially welcome.

   Thanks,
   ... John


Howdy,

A bandsaw can do quite well for ripping narrow stock, or re-sawing stock 
up to the thickness capacity of the saw.  The Delta 14" has a thickness
capacity of 6" (and can be extended to 12") which means you can resaw
wood up to 6" wide into thinner boards.  This includes sawing veneers 
from thicker stock.  

The maximum width which can be ripped from a board is about 13-1/2" .  
This makes it not very useful for cutting plywood for large projects.
The edge left by a bandsaw which is properly tuned, and cut with a sharp
blade of the proper type, is quite good, requiring very little in the
way of dressing up prior to gluing.

Crosscutting is somewhat more difficult -- anything over a few feet long
is difficult to handle because of the small table size.  Also, the shortest
piece you are cutting (the short end of the board) must be shorter than the
13-1/2" from the blade to the column.

*OPINION ON*
If I had it to do over, I would buy a table saw first, the bandsaw second,
and a jointer third.  (then a planer, a drillpress, a ......).  My first 
wife didn't understand this -- I traded up to a model with more features ;-)
My needs may differ greatly from yours, and I encourage you to evaluate 
your acquisitions relative to *your* needs, and hope this will help.
*OPINION OFF*

Cheers,
Carl
--
-------------------------------------------------------------------
My opinions are mine, (all mine), and do not necessarily reflect 
those of my employer.

Carl Ketcham     carl_ketcham@mentorg.com
Mentor Graphics, Suite 300, 5295 South 300 West, Murray, Utah 84107
-------------------------------------------------------------------
From: bruggink@neep.engr.wisc.edu (Dennis Bruggink)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re:  REQUEST for bulk hardware
Date: 10 Apr 92 20:24:22 GMT
Article-I.D.: neep.BRUGGINK.92Apr10132422
Distribution: rec.woodworking


A poster earlier this winter gave the name of

Bruss     Grand Rapids MI
1-800-536-0009

for bulk hardware.  They carry square drive screws, and torx-head
screws, but no slot screws, phillips head (except brass) or nails.
They have a combo square drive/phillips, but they're a bit more
expensive. They also carry threaded inserts, hanger bolts and some
types of more exotic fasteners.

I'm in the same boat as you, and hate having to stop at the store
for a couple screws, so got their catalog [it took exactly 1 month
to arrive] and placed an order, for all square drive screws and the
set of screwdrivers and drive bits.  They are thin-bodied and don't
have many threads per inch but seem to work great. "Industrial wholesale
net pricing."

#8 x 1" $1.96 for 100
#8 x 3"  4.08 for 100

Buying 100 slot-head screws in the hardware store locally cost about the
same.

Can order also in cartons of 15000; they carry zinc plated and zinc chromate
(prices are similar).  Shipping is $4.00 for orders < $60 (otherwise free).
I ordered from WI on Thursday a.m., got my order Monday p.m.  One item was
missing, I called on Tuesday a.m., and had the missing item delivered the
next day, Wed. p.m.


--dennis bruggink
  bruggink@ccc.nersc.gov
From: markw@hpcss01.cup.hp.com (Mark Williams)
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 16:14:54 GMT
Subject: Re: Sliding table refit...
Organization: Hewlett Packard, Cupertino
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

Kity makes a sliding miter guage which is excellent.  Call Ferris Machinery
for details.  Its made for the Delta and Kity line of saws, alas, so the
mounting holes don't match Sears.  

This sells for $290 by mail from Ferris.  Its basically a pair of rails
which are parallel to the blade, and a sliding table with protractor
for miters.  It hangs off the left side of your saw, with legs for the
outboard side.  Check it out.  

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jeff@jlk.Berkeley.EDU (Jeff Kilpatrick)
Subject: Re: Sears router problem--Am I alone?
Reply-To: jeff@jlk.b11.ingr.com
Organization: Intergraph Corp. Huntsville, AL
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 16:46:10 GMT

In article <bmg0gm.dxt@wang.com>, djenkins@wang.com (Dave Jenkins) writes:
|> anderson@scivax.stsci.edu writes:
|> 
|> >I have a Craftsman 1.5 hp router, 1 year old, whose (#$%@! plastic) fan self-
|> >destructed this weekend.  This is only the fourth time I have even used the
|> >thing.
|> >Anyone else have this problem?...
|> 

  I bought the 1.5 hp router about 4 years ago.  The first time I tried to cut something other than pine, it sounded like it was going to fly apart.  An examination of the router indicated the motor housing WAS separating from the base.  I took it back, they gave me a 1 hp loaner while mine was being repaired.  Everything was okay until a couple of months ago, the same thing happened.  I took the cover off the motor and three screws which secure it to the base had vibrated out.  I tightened them back up an



d haven't had any more problems.
  Another gotcha with this product, don't lose the screws which hold the plastic bottom to the base.  These are #8 countersunk 1/4" long and were not available at any of the hardware stores, Wal Mart, etc.