HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: where does the pre-heating hose go?
Date: 29 Dec 92 02:30:12 GMT
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.

In article <1992Dec28.233931.13315@cs.rochester.edu>, mucit@cs.rochester.edu (Bulent Murtezaoglu) writes:
>
>I want to re-install the intake air pre-heating hose on my '81
>Rabbit.  The previous owner has removed it, and I think re-inslalling
>it may help with the white smoke/low mpg problem I'm having on cold days.
>The problem is I can't find the place where the hose came off!  Yes I know
>one end goes to the thermostat housing on the air filter box.  But where 
>does the other end go?  I thought it would be easy to figure out, but I just
>spent 10 minutes looking under the hood with a flashlight and couldn't 
>find it.  Bentley is no help either.
>We're supposed to have good weather for just another day, and I
>wanna test my assumption when it gets cold again.
>
>thanks.
>
>-Mucit
The other end of the hose attaches to an air intake located below
the driver's side of the radiator.

Ric
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mso26892@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Tal )
Subject: Need info on '90 Passat
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1992 04:30:45 GMT
Keywords: Passat 90

Hi all,

   I'm in the market for a used car at around $9000 and was offered a '90
Passat(sedan) for $9500 from a friend's friend. Except that it is in pretty good
condition and has 3K miles, auto trans., I don't know much about it.  I haven't
even taken a look yet.  I know how the latest model look from TV but not
'90 model.  Can anyone tell me more about '90 Passat(or Passat in general)
in terms of reliability, current price, warranty, etc?  Many thanks in
advance.

Minsuk
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: tsh@hut.fi (Timo Hyv|nen)
Subject: Adding rec.autos.vw.air (was: Splitting this Group)
Organization: Helsinki University of Technology, Finland
Date: 22 Dec 92 14:39:59


Why do you always talk about SPLITTING some group?

Why don't we just add rec.autos.vw.air. That's all I need to start reading
vw-stuff again on a regular basis.


Timo
--
I					/ tsh@hut.fi   Timo Hyvonen	I
I	You don't exist! Go away!!      / Vuorikatu 22B44 Hki Finland	I
I   					/ +358-0-654 062		I
I					/ +358-49-704 424		I
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rich@mks.com (Rich Jones)
Subject: Snow tires vs. All-season radials
Organization: Mortice Kern Systems Inc., Waterloo, Ontario, CANADA
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 15:33:14 GMT

I was quite surprised to find out that my 92 Jetta came with summer
(not all-season) radials.  Now that Winter has arrived in Ontario, I
need to do something about this.

I was planning on trading in my summer radials (Continential
185/60R14's) for all-season radials.  The guy in service at my
dealership tells me that they don't sell all-season radials because
they don't believe in them.  Something about European cars having
different suspensions and therefore, different tire requirements than
domestics.  Can anyone clarify this fairly ambiguous statement?  I'm
leaning towards all-season radials because I'd like to avoid having to
find a place to store a set of tires in their off-season.

(Are you there Tom?  I sent you email, but it bounced)

Rich.
-- 
Richard Jones                  ||  // // ,' /~~~\'  35 King Street North
Technical Support             /||/// //\\   `\\\   Waterloo, Ontario
_____________________________/ | //_//  \\|\___/  Canada  N2J 2W9
rich@mks.com          MORTICE KERN SYSTEMS INC.  (519) 884-2251
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: Re: VW Bug Rear Window Vents
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 22:25:54 GMT

In article <1992Dec28.201359.2395@nntp.nta.no>, BARANSKI@veamf1.nusc.navy.mil (Jim Baranski) writes:
>I asked this a while ago, but didn't get any response...
>
>Inside next the rear window in my '72 Bug, there are what appears to be some
>kind of vent openings.  On closer inspection it looks like these 'vents' are
>blocked, or do not go anywhere.  Can anyone enlighten me as to what these are,
>and their use?
These are fresh air vents, the allow the air to enter through either the
front intake vent or the heater, and then exit out through the little
chrome vents on the outside, just behind the rear windows.

>
>Next to these vents is a LARGE Phillip screw on each side of the Bug, like
>about an inch across the head.  I was thinking of mounting a couple of small
>speakers on brackets on these.  What are they for?

These are used to cover the mounting points for three point seatbelts
for the rear seat.
>
>From what I remember my brother's bug from when I was a teenager, he used to be
>able to create a flat space in the back by folding the back seat down.  When I
>fold my back seat down, it's no where near flat.  Am I doing something wrong?
>Was I Hallucinating?
>
The seat folds somewhat flat. I'm not sure about the 72's but my 74 had
a strap which "compressed" the seat when folded and held it flat.

Ric
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: tomh@wes.on.ca (Tom Haapanen)
Subject: Re: [W] The VW domino effect
Organization: Waterloo Engineering Software
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 19:10:51 GMT

> tomh@wes.on.ca (Tom Haapanen) writes:
>> Had a full service (48,000 km/30,000 miles) last month.  My dealer 
>> charged me $90.

savoia@sw.stratus.com (Rick Savoia) writes:
> My car currently has 73k on it.  I don't know how you got away 
> with $90 for a full service.  I've called several dealers and 
> when you make an appointment, the first thing they say is:
> "You know this is going to cost about $360, right?"  

Well, gee, what can I say.  My bill says "48,000 km service: $89".  And
that's Canadian dollars, even.  But it's the standard VW service, with a
timing belt check and all the other stuff.  I thought it was cheap, too,
but I wasn't about to complain.  :)

> I stopped going to dealers the day after I bought my car.  Very few of
> them were trustworthy.  I have one mechanic who I do trust, [...]

I trust my dealer.  I've been dealing with them since about '82, and they
have yet to screw me -- although they have overtightened the lug bolts a
few times.  :(  But naturally all dealers are different, and yours may be
the scum of the earth for all I know.

Hope your luck improves...

[ \tom haapanen  |  "only auto racing, bullfighting and mountain climbing are ]
[ tomh@wes.on.ca |   sports -- all others are only games" -- ernest hemingway ]
[ waterloo engineering software |     "to thine own self be true" -- polonius ]
From: savoia@sw.stratus.com (Rick Savoia)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: The VW domino effect
Date: 22 Dec 1992 16:16:33 GMT
Organization: Stratus Computer, Inc.
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: watts.sqa.stratus.com

In article <1992Dec22.034157.18538@wes.on.ca>, tomh@wes.on.ca (Tom Haapanen) writes:
> savoia@sw.stratus.com (Rick Savoia) writes:
> > I brought my car in for front brake work ($225) two months ago.
> 
> Did my own front brakes ('90 GTI 16V) three months ago.  $50 for parts.
> 
> > [...].  I need a "full service" which I just had 35k ago ($300).
> 
> Had a full service (48,000 km/30,000 miles) last month.  My dealer 
> charged me $90.
> 
My car currently has 73k on it.  I don't know how you got away 
with $90 for a full service.  I've called several dealers and 
when you make an appointment, the first thing they say is:
"You know this is going to cost about $360, right?"  

This isn't a dealer by the way, but a local mechanic.

> > guarantee is the water pump which I just had replaced [...]
> 
> This can't be for real!

Actually, it wasn't.  It's my inner CV joint.  According to the mechanic
the part costs $101.  With about 3-4 hours of labor at $40/hour....
I called another mechanic to get a second opinion on what this guy 
was telling me.  

Mechanic 1:  Every 65k-70k miles you should pull off the axles and grease
up the CV joints check them out, etc....

Mechanic 2:  Sort of. That's if you want to be completely thorough, other
wise it isn't necessary.

> 
> Or is your dealer in dire need of business?  Seriously, I don't like the
> sound of this.  I'd definitely get a second opinion.

I stopped going to dealers the day after I bought my car.  Very
few of them were trustworthy.  I have one mechanic who I do
trust, but it's now very inconvenient to go to him and 
this one who has been recommended by several of my
co-workers.   I guess it just doesn't make sense.  No
matter where I go or how hard I try, my repairs never
cost less than $150.  The CV joint is going to cost
at least $350 ($101/part, $20 for the boot kits,
and 4 hours labor, $160).  After going to several 
mechanics and getting charged approximately the same
price everywhere, I think I'm just living in the wrong
part of the world.  

Most of my repairs I can now do myself (tune-ups and 
such) but I can't do things like CV joints and timing
belts, so I guess I'm just stuck.  Thanks again, fellow
VW owners, for the opportunity to vent frustrations.

-- 
==========================================================
Rick Savoia                     | "I'm just very selective
savoia@watts.sqa.stratus.com    | about the reality 
Rick_Savoia@vos.stratus.com     | I accept" - Calvin
==========================================================
From: eliot@lanmola.engr.washington.edu (eliot)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: [W] 1992 Golfs seem too high revving!  Why?
Date: 28 Dec 1992 19:03:49 GMT
Organization: clearer than blir
NNTP-Posting-Host: lanmola.engr.washington.edu


>>>On both Golfs, when running at about 60 MPH, the engine is doing about 3,000
>>RPMs.  This seems very high when compared to my 1987 VW Fox GL (4-speed)
>>which does about  2,250 RPMs at the same speed.

>>Why is this?  Has anyone "solved" the "problem" by changing the final drive
>>ratio or using a different gearbox?  Are the 16-Valves also geared this short?
>>What's the deal?

yes, the current golfs have a much lower final drive ratio than the
fox.  the reason is quite simple: the golf engine is more peaky (and
more powerful) than the fox, so gear it such that it is spending more
of its time in its usable powerband.  also the fox is a lighter car
and can handle a taller final drive ratio.  the 16 valve engines are
also peakier and geared accordingly.  pre-88 golfs (with 85 instead of
100 bhp) had much taller gearing like the fox.  

i think that the lowering of the final drive ratio did not happen at the
same time as the power increase.. so if i'm not mistaken there is a
one or two year model range where the golfs had high gearing and peaky
engines.

i much prefer the low gearing, btw.  makes the car more fun, if less
quiet.


eliot


Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: hollen@megatek.UUCP (Dion Hollenbeck)
Subject: Re: Two Newsgroups or One?
Organization: Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California
	<BzCv49.K2I@umassd.edu> <BzDJDu.2v9@news.ucs.mun.ca>
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 16:16:39 GMT

>>>>> On Wed, 16 Dec 1992 22:49:05 GMT, ereddy@morgan.ucs.mun.ca (Ed Reddy) said:

Ed> In article <BzCv49.K2I@umassd.edu> rgolen@UMASSD.EDU writes:
>I agree with Tom here. Obviously there are a couple of people out there 
>who agree too...I've noticed a fairly elegant solution popping up here
>lately ... somebody is placing a "[A]" before air-cooled articles. So
>why not keep the list dealing with ALL VWs and just take the extra
>time when we post to place [A] before aircooled stuff and [W]
>when we post watercooled stuff?
>
Ed> Why not three or four groups?
Ed>  
Ed> rec.auto.vw.current <- a good idea just to cover current VW happenings
Ed> rec.auto.vw.tech.water <- to cover one side of technical info
Ed> rec.auto.vw.tech.air <- the other side
Ed>  

Even though I agree with multiple groups, please don't anyone propose
adding unnecessary levels.  Every level means a subdirectory more and
the spool/News directory structure is already a nightmare.  Just
remove the "tech" from this proposal and it serves quite well.  The
formal proposal that Kevin made is equivalent with "air", "water", and
"misc".
-- 
Dion Hollenbeck                        Email: hollen@megatek.com
Senior Software Engineer                      megatek!hollen@uunet.uu.net
Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California    ucsd!megatek.uucp!hollen
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: Getting the 56 Beetle running...
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1992 18:37:21 GMT

As I mentioned in an earlier posting this week, it is time
to get the 56 bug running again. The last time I drove
it (12 years or more ago) there was a clunk in the motor, and
my spare motor seemed to have seized. It also had about 12 years
worth of dust on it, and 4 very flat tires, and a very dead
battery.

Yesterday I went down to the garage where it has been kept, and 
pumped up the tires, all but one held air by this morning. Then
I maneuvered it around to get it out of its corner and out of
the garage to give it a quick wash down. Paint doesnt look
too bad, and after a brief bit of compunding this morning,
it looks like all it needs is some TLC.

The wheels are all free, but the master cylinder has died...
it stayed up for a sec, and then down it went. Oh, well...

While rummaging through it, I found a brand new 36 hp
muffler in the trunk as well as some 36 hp heater box
repair pipes.

I put a battery charger on, if nothing else to check the
electrics. The headlights work, as do the tail and
license plate lights. The idiot lights work, the wiper
motor works, but only the turnsignal indicator works
on the speedo. The horn seems to be in need of help
also.

But the best surprise of the day was the thought-to-be
seized spare motor. I put a 1/2 drive breaker bar on
the crank pulley nut, and just nudged it...and pop!
It turns!!!  I put some penetrating oil down the cylinders
and into the manifolds and exhaust ports and spent
about 5 minutes turning it over by hand.

It looks like it may be running within the week!!

Ric
From: jhughes@rosebud.ub.com (Jeff Hughes)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: '91 Passat Front End Problem
Date: 21 Dec 92 21:48:00 GMT
Organization: Ungermann Bass

I have a question for any Passat owners.  I have a 1991 Passat and my 
steering column seems to make a "clunking noise" when I back out of a 
driveway or turn slowly through a parking lot.  I have had the car to 2 
different dealerships at least 5 times and they can't find the problem.  Has 
anyone had a similar problem?  If so, what was the resolution?  The car 
seems to work fine otherwise.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: achenbac@epcot.spdc.ti.com (Jeff Achenbach)
Subject: Re: Call for Vote (two groups or one)
Organization: TI Semiconductor Process and Design Center
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 15:58:25 GMT

In article <1992Dec17.191932.17943@dartvax.dartmouth.edu> Ralph.C.Lindenfeld@dartmouth.edu (Ralph C. Lindenfeld) writes:
>It seems there's quite a bit of disagreement as to two or one, let's
>have 1) discussion and 2) vote (or whatever the procedure is).
>
>Ralph "twogroup1960VW Panelvan" Lindenfeld

Having owned Ghias, bugs, and buses, and being unable to tell a modern VW
from a Honda, Datsun, Toyota, I say split. I seldom read this group at the
moment due to having to wade through loads of stuff of no interest to me.

Jeff Achenbach
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: jspinnow@netcom.com (John Stewart Pinnow)
Subject: Re: [A] `71 Super Bug shakes and shimmies
Keywords: MacPherson, dampener, steering bearing
Organization: Tmoh Research, Milwaukee, WI
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 01:22:26 GMT

In article <1992Dec21.174510.1927@zia.aoc.nrao.edu> troberts@zia.aoc.nrao.edu (Timothy Roberts) writes:
>Hey, Folks!
>	My '71 Super Beetle shakes at 35 mph.  Additionally, the
>rubber bushing at the top of the driver's side strut assembly is
>cracked.  Does this mean I should throw in a new set of struts?  Or
>does this point to a new steering dampener?  The "Idiot" book says
>that replacing the struts in a Super is an auto shop only affair.  Is
>this true?  For my brother's `67 Porsche 912 the springs came
>pre-compressed and we just snipped off the cable and they lept into
>place.  Can I expect this to happen on my Super, too?  Why is there
>air? 
>
>-Tim
>
>

        You may need a new steering dampener. Track control arm bushings can
also cause this problem. Ball joints can cause the problem as well. If the car
is rusty there maybe some hidden problems. Tires can also cause a shimmy
if they are out of balance or have a ply separation. Most of the things on
the front end of a supper bettle you cannot do yourself with out some
special tools. What I would do is ask around for the best front end alignment
shop in your area. Get an estimate on what the repairs may be. A super bettle
can cost hundeds of dollars if many things need to be replaced.

Donald Pinnow

P.S Let me know how things go!

--
-- 
Tmoh Research       | Net : jspinnow@csd4.csd.uwm.edu| Usmail: Ask
John S. Pinnow      |       jspinnow@netcom.com      | AT&T  : (414) 761-1537
Milwaukee, WI 53221 |        jpinnow@world.std.com   | The opinions I express
                    |       alumn123@whscdp.whs.edu  | are mine........
From: jgladu@bcm.tmc.edu (grungy (John F. Gladu))
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: [A] Type II long axles
Followup-To: rec.autos.vw
Date: 22 Dec 1992 18:33:34 GMT
Organization: Systems Support Center, BCM
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: j.ssctr.bcm.tmc.edu

My poor old '61 double door panel (the Bozobus) is eating the flat end of
his long axles.  He's done this before.  [I really *do* try to keep the oil
level up.]  This transaxle was reconditioned at Southern Volks in the
Dallas/Fort Worth area about 100k miles ago - and they did the transfer
cases as well.

Where can I get new long axles?  I know of several places that sell rebuilt
transaxles, but no one that deals with the rest of the swingaxle and the
reduction gears.  Is there still someone out there who can rebuild the
whole thing (transaxle/swingarms/reduction gears)?  I live in Houston,
Texas and the shipping *is* a consideration...

I can put the swingaxles on if I can find them...

Also, does anyone no a source for the loooong-armed bearing puller needed
to pull the outboard bearing off of the stub-axle?  My transfer cases do
NOT have a freeze plug on the inboard side.  I borrowed one a long time
ago, but that source is gone.  (This is the 36mm-nut size stub-axle.)

bcnu - grungy (John Gladu)
Systems Support Center -- Baylor College of Medicine
INTERNET: jgladu@bcm.tmc.edu  | VOICE: (713)798-7370
 US MAIL:  One Baylor Plaza, Houston, Texas  77030
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: dilmore@eastrg2.cray.com (Robert James Dilmore)
Subject: [W] Another Recall (9A engine type)
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Distribution: usa
Date: 23 Dec 92 07:05:26 CST

   There appears to be another recall for VW. This one has to do with the
engine sticking at a higher RPM than desired when lifting off the accelerator.
There is a venturi port on the throttle body that must be replaced with one
that is threaded.

    The problem on my car may be caused by this. Mine exibited this behavior
6 months ago and after the dealer tried to fix it under warrenty twice, I 
decided to troubleshoot it and then tell the dealer what to replace. My 
diagnosis was different, but may be related. I found the car to be sticking
at 1175 RPM and not dropping down to 900 RPM. I ohmed out the idle switch 
and found that the switch was not closing, sometimes. The switch was out of
the .15 to .5 mm spec.  Could this venturi be a root cause of my problems?

     Well after talking to several people on the net that have 9a engines,
and finding this to be a fairly common problem I called NTSA and reported
it. I felt that this was unsafe since if you let off the gas you will get 
an undesired acceleration. They must have agreed with me because I just got
a letter in the mail saying a investigation was launched due to my corres-
pondence and a summation of thier findings. Just for the heck of it I called
VWUS customer service and they have no record of this recall. My root question
is, Have they (NTSA) misdiagnosed why this problem occurs? What is the 
experience of people that have had this problem. I was sure that the idle
switch was not closing sometimes. Does this venturi tube cause another more
serious condition? The dealer fix is uknown at this time but I am sure that
a wholesale replacement of the throttle body will fix both problems.


  I'm glad I got a new Passat, it's turned out to be such a fun project!



Robert Dilmore
dilmore@cray.com or
dilmore@hail.fb4.noaa.gov




Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: troberts@zia.aoc.nrao.edu (Timothy Roberts)
Subject: [A] '71 Super Bug shimmies.
Summary: front end shot?
Keywords: steering box, tie rod ends, wheel bearings
Organization: National Radio Astronomy Observatory, Socorro NM
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 92 22:03:00 GMT

Hey folks!
	My '71 super beetle has a shimmy from hell.  Starts at 35 mph
and just keeps going.  I have done the tire wiggle at 12 & 6 o'clock 
and 9 & 3 o'clock and everything seems firm.  I have about two inches
of play in the steering wheel. I have gone through the trunk and
tightened the steering box adjustment up there and reduced the shimmy
a lot but have added lumps to the steering.  A new steering dampener
is almost shot from a 1500 mile trek from Chi-town to here over X-mas.
I have new wheels/rubber all around - balanced at Firestone.  The
tie-rod ends seem tight.  My pittman arm looks to be from another
vehicle because it has all sorts of bolts attached to it that aren't
hooked to anything.  The universal joint appears to not have any
movement besides the left <-> right slop.  Finally, the steering box
is covered in tons of grease and there is no way in hell I can get
under this car and get access to the up <-> down adjustment hex nut on
the front of the steering box because the frame head is in the way.

	What do I do next?  I was told $350.00 for a new steering box
installed.  Do I pay?  Arrrgh!!!

-Tim
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Timothy P. P. Roberts   troberts@NRAO.edu   505/835-7283
National Radio Astronomy Observatory, P.O. Box 0, Socorro, NM 87801
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rajagopa@sdf.lonestar.org (Hari Rajagopal)
Subject: help needed on volvo elec(excuse X posting)
Organization: sdf full-shell Public Access Unix - Dallas, TX - 214/436-3281
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1992 01:07:40 GMT

 

Hi ,
	I have a strange problem with my 1980 Volvo DL, The sequence
of events is as follows:

	Over a few weeks I have noticed the dash lights flicker at
	random, intermittently and then disappear, this I attributed
	to loose wiring harness etc:-

	Three days ago it was wet and cold (Dallas) and the car got a 
	soaking to the bone!! Then the problems started:-

	The engine cut out after driving 2 mi in the morning and had to
	be jump started. However it just needed a touch from the jumper
	cables to start (1 second or so). 

	I drove 20 mi to school and parked. All well in the evening when
	I started and THEN suddenly the engine died after 1-2 mi.

	Again jumped but then the following has been reccurring:
		a)	needs just a touch of the cable clips to start
		b)	Dies as soon (30 sec) of jumper removal
	I also had the battery recharged and the engine started on the
	first turn and drove beautifully for 20 mi. Then I parked it
	overnight. Morning (cold) started fine drove 2 mi then same
	problems started again. Since then I have just kept it garaged.

Any advice, ???
	My guess is there is something wrong with the earthing , or maybe 
	the alternator is not taking over when the engine starts, but the
	drivebelt seems fine (havent checked alternator o/p yet) can
	someone give me some pointers??
			Thanks in advance.

						Hari Rajagopal//

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw