HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Subject: Re: brine shrimp
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1992 10:24:16 GMT

In article <1992Nov21.205502.11683@unislc.uucp> livings@unislc.uucp (Ross Livingston) writes:
>brine shrimp I guess) and am wondering how to harvest them.  Do
>I need a boat or are they around the shorelines?

The way the local killifishers collect brine shrimp is off low-sitting piers
into the salt evaporation fields or salt marsh ponds.  A coarse regular
large aquarium net attached to a broom handle will do as a primitive but
effective collection device.

>$8.00 / lb. but said if I bought bulk (around 5 gallons) I could get a
...
>probably about 25 lbs!  Can anyone tell me if this price is even
>competative?  

The *absolute lowest* I have seen Salt Lake brine shrimp eggs was for $10/lb
at a local Pet Fair as a promotional discount for SF Bay Brand.  You can
get OSI brand eggs for $15-18/lb mail order.

The deal you are being offered is much better than any conventional consumer
price you can find.

The eggs will stay fertile for *centuries* as long as they are kept dry.  
The best way to store them in bulk is in the freezer, where the low
humidity will keep them viable.

>He's going to let me take a sample to see if I can even >hatch them.

That should not be a problem.  The simplest method is to use 1 table spoon
of coarse salt per 1 quart of water and will accomodate 2 tsp of eggs.  If
you put a bit more or less of salt, you will still hatch the shrimp just
fine within 24-36 hours as long as the mix is vigorously aerated.  2 tsp is
a *lot* of brine shrimp, though.  
-- 
Oleg Kiselev at home			...use the header to find the path
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: gurr@newsparc6 (David Gurr 4-6989 MR Sys)
Subject: Re: (F) pine plants
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL3
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 92 18:34:20 GMT

The stuff called pine plant is a terresterial club moss.  It is dead
by the time it makes it to the store as they cut off its rootlike 
part.  Don't buy it, and chew out the store for fraudulently selling
it as an aquarium plant (after you are certain that it is club moss,
and do so politely,pointing out that it is not is the best interests
of the store to dup customers).  In my incomplete knowledge.  -David Gurr
From: assana@polkadot.Eng.Sun.COM (assana)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Neons may be late night snack !!
Followup-To: assana@polkadot.eng.sun.com
Date: 17 Nov 1992 19:47:10 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc., Mountain View, CA
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: polkadot

In article <1eb8rmINNfrp@transfer.stratus.com> scol@scottsdale.az.stratus.com (Scott Colbath) writes:
>........................................ Could the Seabay be munching  
>on these Neons? It never seems to bother them at all. I thought the Neons were  
>too big for the Seabay to eat. The Seabay also does not look like it has  
>ingested anything. I would think I might see a bulge in this normally thin  
>fish. In addition, how much can this fish eat??? Two Neons in three days?  
>Sounds like a bit much, considering I am feeding all my fish quite well to  
>start. Any comments?

I have a few monos, and a large school of cardinal/neon tetras. I've seen one 
of the monos break up the tetras school once in a while, but she seems to 
do it for fun. Never seen any of them bother the tetras!

>BTW: The Seabay has to be one of the coolest fish I have seen in a freshwater  
>tank next to Angels and Discus. 

Agree with you 100%. They have too much character to be a fish!
--
         ^-^
        /o o\
       ===^===   assana@polkadot.eng.sun.com
          -   
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: fssmith@venus.lerc.nasa.gov (Greg Smith)
Subject: Re: breeding clams???
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
Date: 18 Nov 1992 08:42 EDT  

In article <BxvHsv.A17@ra.nrl.navy.mil>, tse@ra.nrl.navy.mil (Anthony Tse) writes...
>Hi,
>    I've been collecting T. clams for quit sometime now hoping that
>one day they will spawn in my tank.  My question is, how big do they
>have to be before they spawn?  I know T. Gigas can grow up to 3'
>across in the wild and the biggest clam I got is a 1' Gigas.  I read
>somewhere that smaller clams will spawn, but the number of eggs and
>sperms released is considerable smaller.  I have 2 ~7" Derasa, are
>they big enough to spawn?  Does anyone have any info on commercially
>raised giant clams?  Derasa seems to be the only farmed clam commonly
>available.  How do they induce the clams to spawn?  Moon light (just
>added to my tank)?  And how big are the breeding stock?  I am also in
>the process of getting some more Maximas.  I have one 6" Maxima and one
>smaller on (3"), how big are big Maxs?  It would be really nice if you
>clam owners out there can let me know how big are your biggest clams.
> 
>-Anthony

According to Bruce Carlson of the Waikiki aquarium, persoanl communication,
to induce clams to spawn you inject them with gonad material from a living
clam of the same species.  Sounds kind of expensive to me.  Might work for a 
clam farm, but not for hobbyist.  Many commercial fish hacheries use this method
to induce spawning.

Greg
From: sl41k@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: (F) African Cichlid Questions
Date: 20 Nov 92 12:31:04 MDT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Utah State University

In article <75495@hydra.gatech.EDU>, dc37@prism.gatech.EDU (COLLINS,DONALD J) writes:
> Hello all-
> 
> I recently aquired two african cichlids which I can't find in the
> books I have ("The Cichlid Aquarium", and, "The Cichlids of Malawi
> and Tanganyika" both from TFH Press).  The fish were called by the 
> fish store Psuedotropheous Kenniyi and Psuedotropheous Avanti.

every fish that I have seen that has been a psuedotropheous has been a very
agressive fish, so be careful as to what fishes you add to these.  I'm not
sure what the Avanti is but I believe that I have seen the Kenniyi, So I don't
think that is it a mixed breed, but I'm not sure.

> 
> Can anyone tell me if these fish have some other name? 
> If not, have I gotten some mixed up home breed of cichlid?
> Also if anyone knows of any books which reference these species I
> would like to know about it.
> 
> One more question. I have two cyathopharynx furcifers which are still
> juvaniles.  Does anyone know how long it takes for these fish to 
> reach their full adult coloration?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Jason
> 
> P.S. Please excuse my spelling errors
> 
> -- 
> COLLINS,DONALD J
> Georgia Institute of Technology, Atlanta Georgia, 30332
> uucp:	  ...!{decvax,hplabs,ncar,purdue,rutgers}!gatech!prism!dc37
> Internet: dc37@prism.gatech.edu

Mike Lovell
sl41k@cc.usu.edu
From: chuck@micro.caltech.edu (Chuck Higgins)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: FAQ request
Date: 20 Nov 92 21:11:29 GMT
Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena
NNTP-Posting-Host: maia.micro.caltech.edu

    Would someone please repost the FAQ about filters?  Or is there perhaps
some place where I can FTP it?

           Thanks,
                Chuck Higgins
From: awhj@vax5.cit.cornell.edu (Tom Fredericks)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Old Aquarium Bookdir
Date: 17 Nov 92 08:01:33 EST
Distribution: rec
Organization: Cornell University

In article <17410@mindlink.bc.ca>,
Tom_Cretain@mindlink.bc.ca (Tom Cretain) writes: 
>  I have been offered an early aquarium book.Does anyone know if
> it would be worth buyiny,and for how much? It is "The Family
> Aquarium",by H.D.Butler,published by Deck & Fitzgerald (1858),
> N.Y. It is said to have many b/w illustrations,and be in "very
> nice" condition,except for some foxing. Any idea of its value?
>  Thanks.
> _
> 

From Ross Socolof's 1990 catalog "Mostly Ichthyology" ("...including General
Natural History, Herpetology, Paleontology, and much more-") (Socolof
Enterprises, P.O. Box 1987, Bradenton, Florida 34206  (813) 355-8995):

BUTLER, H.D.  THE FAMILY AQUARIUM OR AQUA VIVARIUM- being a familiar & complete
instructor for construction, fitting-up, stocking, & maintenance of the Fluvial
& Marine Aquarium 1858 original binding vg excepting the expected foxing- 127pp
incl. 7pp of advs.(Barnums' Museum)   - $125.00



From Stuart Wheeler's 1989 catalog  "Rafinesque Books" ("Used old and
interesting Natural History books featuring aquarium and ichthyology books,
Aquatic plants, microscopy, etc.") (P.O. Box 23901, Columbus, Ohio  43223
(614) 279-1711):

BUTLER, H.D. THE FAMILY AQUARIUM, first ed. 1858 pp121.  Hand colored frontis,
14 text wood engravings, 7 pages of ads in rear, (H).Gilt and blind-stamped
cloth.  One of the first two books on aquarium-keeping published in America
(Both were published the same year; no one seems to know which was first).
Butler was aquarist at Barnum's American Museum in New York.  Slight foxing
else Very good.   -$75.00


  - Tom Fredericks
    Ithaca, New York
From: exualan@exu.ericsson.se (Alan Malkiel)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Induced voltages
Date: 23 Nov 92 20:13:10 GMT
Reply-To: exualan@exu.ericsson.se
Organization: Ericsson Network Systems, Inc.
X-Disclaimer: This article was posted by a user at Ericsson.
              Any opinions expressed are strictly those of the
              user and not necessarily those of Ericsson.

RE: titanium and surgical stainless steel

Another alternative to (possibly rusting) stainless steel.
*Monel wire*, highly corrosive resistant and available in
small user-friendly quantities.  I think it contains a high
percentage of nickle.  This solves the problem of attaching
wire to a piece of titanium (a good trick).

Monel wire an be bought from Boat US (boating equipment supplies) 
in spools of a few dozen feet.  Original purpose: to wrap around
anchor chain connectors where bolts and screws may unscrew accidently
due to vibration.  

---
Alan Malkiel               |   e-mail exualan@exu.ericsson.se
Ericsson Network Systems   |   alt.   exu.exualan@memo.ericsson.se
MS - C06                   |   memo - EXU.EXUALAN 
PO Box 833875              |   phone - (214) 997-6672
Richardson, TX 75083-3875  |   "Opinions - worth exactly what you paid"
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: livings@unislc.uucp (Ross Livingston)
Subject: Re: brine shrimp
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Organization: Unisys Corporation SLC
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1992 22:40:51 GMT

Oleg Kiselev (oleg@netcom.com) wrote:

: The *absolute lowest* I have seen Salt Lake brine shrimp eggs was for $10/lb
: at a local Pet Fair as a promotional discount for SF Bay Brand.  You can
: get OSI brand eggs for $15-18/lb mail order.

I went out yesterday and bought a pound.  It's vacuum packed in a can and
also has one of those silicone gel packets inside to keep out the moisture.

: The deal you are being offered is much better than any conventional consumer
: price you can find.

It sounds like I could get about all I want at that price, and even cheaper if
I got a case (12 lbs).  Probably around $7/lb.  Of coarse it'd take me 30
years to deal with that much alone...

: The eggs will stay fertile for *centuries* as long as they are kept dry.  
: The best way to store them in bulk is in the freezer, where the low
: humidity will keep them viable.

The ones I got were packaged for a Japanese firm that uses them to feed their
shrimp and lobsters.  They insist on high hatch rates, so these are guarenteed
to produce over 90% hatch.

: That should not be a problem.  The simplest method is to use 1 table spoon
...

The can says for optimal hatch:  SG = 1.023, pH = 8.0 - 8.2, Temp = 29 C
(85 F), air agitation (though he said it shouldn't be too vigorous), and
continuous illumination of about 2k lux at the water surface.

Though he doesn't deal with 'small' buyers, he would probably accomidate
me for future orders.  The smallest pack is 1/2 lb. for which he would
want more like $6 ($12 / lb) because the packaging (shrink-wrap) isn't as
cost effective for him.  What kind of interest is there amoung you all?
I'd be willing to go pick some up and ship out to those interested.  It'd
just be cost + shipping + packaging materials (if any).

Note, I can't make any promises.  Though he seemed to like me, he could
decide he should get about as much as mail order places.
-- 
Ross Livingston, Unisys Corp.  |  Phone   (801) 594-6217
livings%unislc.uunet.uu.net    |  Fax     801-594-4861 / 801-594-6708
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: bruceg@Cadence.COM (Bruce Gustifson)
Subject: Re: chlorine/amine removers
Organization: Cadence Design Systems, Inc.
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 18:44:23 GMT

In article <1992Nov17.180219.18701@col.hp.com> howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel) writes:
>I have quit using products that remove both amonia and chlorine.  My thinking
>is that in an established (read cycled and healthy) tank the addition of
>chemicals that remove the amonia may upset the bio filter which was counting
>on using that amonia as food. 
>
>Just MHO.
>
>Howard
>-- 
>Howard Rebel hpcsos.col.hp.com 
>

  IMHO, this reasoning is faulty. I can see the reasoning behind not removing
the ammonia to keep a bio-filter healthy, but not removing chlorine or chloramine
is definitely NOT going to help your bio-filter! In my experience, this is a very
dangerous practice, and due to fluctuating levels of chlorine, you may eventually
completely kill your bio-filter. I prefer to remove the chloramine in my tap
water also, as I do not need to stress my fish any more than necessary.
				-Bruce-

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: dave@borland.com (Dave Draper)
Subject: Re: Golden Severums and Anglefish			
Originator: dave@genghis.borland.com
Organization: Borland International
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 17:17:36 GMT

In article <2BF=vgB@engin.umich.edu> nclennan@churchst.ccs.itd.umich.edu (Neil F. Clennan) writes:
>In article <1992Nov10.194350.3394@borland.com> dave@borland.com (Dave Draper)  
>writes:
>> Gold Severums, _Heros severus_, are herbivor cichlids from South America.
>> They are relatively docile fish except when they get larger and are kept
>> with each other. The thing to note about Severums is that they are
>> capable of getting quite large. It is not uncommom for them to reach
>> 10 inches if kept in a large enough tank.
>
>Did you say "herbivore"?!!  Not mine.  Mine are omnivorous.  Though the
>books I've read can't agree on whether to call Gold Severums Heros severus
>or Cichlasoma severum, none of them call these fish herbivores.
>

I stand by my origianl statement that in general _Heros severus_ and
_Heros appendiculatus_ (Turquoise Severum) are herbivors. Of course there
are probably exceptions to the rule.

I have several Severums in a tank with Oscars and Pike Cichlids. I have
never seen them, the Severums, go after a feeder goldfish. I have seen
them eat frozen brine shrimp and Tubifex worms. I feed mine Zuchinni,
peas, spinach and lettuce on a regular basis and they gobble it right
up.

Look in _The Cichlid Aquarium_ by Paul Loiselle. This is just one of
the books that clearly states that Severums are herbivors.

- Dave


-- 
Dave Draper                         |
Senior Engineer - Debugger & Tools  |     Losers make excuses,
Borland International               |     Winners make it happen!
dave@borland.com                    |
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: tse@ra.nrl.navy.mil (Anthony Tse)
Subject: breeding clams???
Organization: Naval Research Lab, Washington, DC
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 18:24:31 GMT

Hi,
    I've been collecting T. clams for quit sometime now hoping that
one day they will spawn in my tank.  My question is, how big do they
have to be before they spawn?  I know T. Gigas can grow up to 3'
across in the wild and the biggest clam I got is a 1' Gigas.  I read
somewhere that smaller clams will spawn, but the number of eggs and
sperms released is considerable smaller.  I have 2 ~7" Derasa, are
they big enough to spawn?  Does anyone have any info on commercially
raised giant clams?  Derasa seems to be the only farmed clam commonly
available.  How do they induce the clams to spawn?  Moon light (just
added to my tank)?  And how big are the breeding stock?  I am also in
the process of getting some more Maximas.  I have one 6" Maxima and one
smaller on (3"), how big are big Maxs?  It would be really nice if you
clam owners out there can let me know how big are your biggest clams.

-Anthony
From: greenleaf@bchm.biochem.duke.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Thanks for the advice on Fernando
Date: 17 Nov 92 19:15:58 GMT
Reply-To: Andrea Skantar
Distribution: usa
Organization: Biochem


 Hi!

I want to thank everyone who e-mailed me advice on our Betta, Fernando.  The
consensus was that he's probably cold, so I moved him to a warmer location.  I
may yet move him to my house which is even warmer, but then I'd have to schlep
him back to lab during the holidays to be cared for. Maybe I'll knit him a
"Betta blankie" for Christmas!

Thanks again!

Andrea
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: nagel@ucsu.Colorado.EDU (Kurt Nagel)
Subject: Re: [M] Cycling - Month 4
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 07:38:29 GMT

wieser@bissun.kodak.com (Jim Wieser) writes:

>About a month into things, the brown diatoms showed up. They were quickly 
>replaced with mainly purple algae although some bright green algae also 
>showed up. The purple algae hasn't gone away. 
[...]
Garbage about blue light deleted.  A blue light is good for a reef tank,
but it has nothing to do with your problem
[...]
> algae hasn't decreased. I do 20% water changes
>every other week. The tank now has only a coral beauty and a hippo tang. 
>Is the purple algae normal or should it eventually disappear.

I had a similar problem.  In my case, the local experts explained that the
purple stuff is not actually an algae but is much more voracious than green
algae, so it takes over. It is most likely due to metal content in your water.  The solution was as follows:

	1. Remove all carbon/chemical filtration (They will extract the
           medication)
	2. Apply a half dose of maricyn (An antibiotic) on day 1
	3. Apply a half dose of maricyn on day 2
	4. The purple stuff should begin to die back within a few days
	   If not apply another half dose of marycin (NO MORE)
	5. After die back begins, vacuum main body of crud and change
	   about 20% of the water.
	6. After a bout a week (As long as die back is happening) replace
	   filtration.  Use either Polyfilter or Chemi-pure (These will 
	   extract metals where most filter materials will not)
	7. IMPORTANT:  After the red/purple stuff dies, you will have lost
                       most of your biological filter.  Monitor your nitrates
		       religiously and perform frequent water changes until
		       the system stabilizes.
	8. Tests for metal content (other than copper) can be VERY expensive.
	   I was not inclined to pay for a test of my tap water, so I don't
	   know for sure where the metal came from.
           Continue to use Polyfilter or chemi-pure if you suspect metals
	   in your water source.

	My tank was completely cured.  Remember what I said about water
changes and nitrates.  I had to battle a hair algae problem after the 
purple crud because I didn't keep my nitrates down.

Hope this helps......

Kurt
nagel@fido.colorado.edu
--
    =====================================================================

           /^\
          /   |
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: "larry wheatley" <larry.wheatley@canrem.com>
Subject: (m) odd clownfish?
Reply-To: "larry wheatley" <larry.wheatley@canrem.com>
Organization: Canada Remote Systems
Distribution: rec
Date: 23 Nov 92 18:03:25 EST

Hi All,
        2 weeks ago my parents bought 2 clownfish(Amphiprion ocellaris)
for my 100g reef tank.  They appear to be around 2" in size.  I was
hoping that maybe they will eventually mate.
But! I have no anemone for them, except for a small common sea anemone.
So I was going to ask for some good anemone's for the future pair,
but when I finally got around to writting this one of the clownfish
has found his home in the tentacles of the common sea anemone.

I thought this wasn't their type of anemone? I don't know the proper
name of the anemone.  It has a 3-4" pinkish red flexible tube base 
stuck to the glass bottom, and protrudes from under a rock. 
The center appears to have some green striations (nice color maybe
zooxanthellea?) and the rest is a light brown or cream color,
with darker tips.  It looks like a Caribbean anemone!  

He/She spends most of the time rubbing against it!
It started out with little rubs, and the anemone almost grabed
the clown, but a few days latter they seem to be friends.
From what I can see only the one clown plays in it.  The other justs
hangs out around the tank.

Is this behaviour good? normal? 
Should I be worried?
Any information would be great as I am still learning!!!
This is my first reef tank.

Thanks 

Larry Wheatley
---
  DeLuxe 1.21 #4132  I tried the rest but bought the best!!!!
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
From: mdkj@vax5.cit.cornell.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: clown loaches with ich
Date: 21 Nov 92 17:13:01 EST
Distribution: rec
Organization: Cornell University

My favorite solution for ich is raising the temperature to 85F for about three
weeks.  Although it is not ideal for your fish, I am sure it is better than
malachite green when it comes to loaches...  Not only does it kill the ich
parasite, but it increases the metabolism rate of your fish, with a short-term
boost in their internal defenses against the infection.
Now, before you decide to do this, you need to do a water change, because
according to your message you already have two chemicals floating around in
your tank.  Also, make sure you have enough aeration in your tank, as higher
temperature decreases the amount of oxygen dissolved in the water. 
A last point: you were absolutely right NOT to treat your loaches in your
quarantine tank, since ich has a free-swimming stage, so that just treating the
infected fish does not get rid of the infection: it would just come back in a
few weeks.  Always treat ich in your main tank.
Hope this helps,

John Opsomer
P.S.: There is a small chance some of your fish might already be too weak to
survive heat treatment, depending how long they have been seriously affected by
ich.  Good luck, and let me know how it goes!
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: jason@lanai.cs.ucla.edu (Jason Rosenberg)
Subject: Re: Algae on the hood...ick!
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 92 09:00:13 GMT

flick@cwis.unomaha.edu (John Anderson) writes:

>I have several tanks, and on all the tanks I have the same problem.  Algae
>will grow in a thick coating on the glass/plastic above the tank where the
>light shines through.  I have tried reducing the time the light is on, but
>I also have plants and can't cut it too far back.  It is a MAJOR hassle to
>yank off the hood everytime I do a water change.  Are there any answers to
>my dilema???

You may be able to stop this from happening if you make sure that the inside
surface of your hood stays DRY.  Algaes need water to live.  I don't know
much about your system, but the way I got rid of a similar problem in
my marine tank was to switch from air-bubble driven filtration to power heads.
The bubbles create a spray, which keeps the underside of the hood perenially
moist, allowing algae to grow.  


-- 
Jason Rosenberg                           Computer Science Department
jason@cs.ucla.edu                         University of California
{uunet,rutgers,ucbvax}!ucla-cs!jason      Los Angeles, CA  90024
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria