HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: dvr@doofus.b15.ingr.com (Village Idiot)
Subject: differences in rear hub lengths?
Keywords: lengths, rear hubs
Reply-To: dvr@doofus.b15.ingr.com
Organization: Intergraph Corp. Huntsville Al.
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 15:06:10 GMT

Howdy All,

I have a 1972 Raleigh Super Course which I bought new and have recently
purchased new wheels/hubs from Nashbar to replace the originals.  The
front wheel/hub went on swimmingly, but the rear hub was too long for
the rear forks.  I had to forcibly push the rear forks apart to slide
the rear wheel/hub on.  When I was shopping for new wheels/hubs, I
took great pains to determine whether there were different hub lengths
on the market (i.e. whether you fit the hub to the bike frame).  This
does not seem to be the case.  Hubs appear to come in a "standard"
length.  What am I missing here?  Surely one shouldn't have to force
his/her rear forks apart to slide on a new hub/wheelset?  What should
I do???

Thanks for any help!
-- 
*******************************************************************************

Doug Roberts                             E-mail: dvr@doofus.b15.ingr.com
Senior System Engineer
Federal Systems Division                 Phone: 205-730-1760
Intergraph Corporation
Mail Stop IW1510                         FAX: 205-730-6956
Huntsville, AL  35894-0001

*******************************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: richard@pegasus.com (Richard Foulk)
Subject: Re: How to cold-set rear triangle to wider dropout width?
Organization: Pegasus,  Honolulu
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 92 13:59:54 GMT

In article <1992Dec12.055727.2812@news2.cis.umn.edu> frank@molbio.cbs.umn.edu (Frank Williams) writes:
> [...]
>
>Remember that spreading the rear triangle is not required to use a wider
>axle, it is just a convienence.  [...]


Huh?  It would be more convenient not to bother if it's not necessary.


-- 
Richard Foulk		richard@pegasus.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen)
Subject: Re: Where's the Indexing?
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 92 10:23:48 GMT

In article <1992Dec14.233243.1@acad2.alaska.edu> isdhm@acad2.alaska.edu writes:
[reformatted for readability]
>So if this is the case, that indexing is in the shifters, not in the 
>derailers, then wouldnt it be possible to upgrade a friction system to
>indexed by changing only the shifters?
>
>I have always thought the indexing was in the shifters, and had nothing to do
>with the derailers themselves.  

yes, the indexing is in the shifters.  the problem is that
the nonindexing derailleur may not move the same distance as the
indexing derailleur for a given amount of cable pulled by the shifter.
different geometry and all.  you could try changing only the shifters,
but you'll probably find that it indexes poorly.

-teddy
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: H.ZIERKE@BI-LINK.owl.de (Hans-Joachim Zierke)
Subject: Re: Chain maint. question
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 92 06:52:00 +0100
X-Mailer: CrossPoint v2.0 R/211 [C852]
X-Gateway: ZCONNECT UI bi-link.owl.de [RFC/Connect IIIb DOS v0.45]


On 12.12.92, jbrandt@hplred.HPL.HP.COM 
wrote about "Re: Chain maint. question":

j> As is clearly stated in the FAQ and elsewhere, 1% wear is ~1/8 inch
j> per foot and this is a pretty good absolute "throw it away"
j> elongation for a chain, while 1/16 is a threshold beyond which rapid
j> sprocket wear begins.  Use a ruler and measure from the center of
j> one pin to the center of one ~12 inches away (this can be done on
j> the bike).  A new chain has a pin at exactly every 1/2 inch.

There are two tools to measure this.

One for shops: A bar with two pins, one of them excentric on a small round
plate, with a scale on the other side. This one is made by Stephan Pochert,
one of the owners of a bike shop here in Berlin. 

One for "normal" cyclists: A stainless steel plate, that is cut very 
precisely. As long as it does not fit to the chain, it is good. This one
is made by Rohloff GmbH, the company producing the Campagnolo chain.



Ciao
Hajo

--
Hans-Joachim Zierke  ##  Tel.: +49-30 / 394 8445  ##  Fax: +49-30 / 394 8447
                         h.zierke@bi-link.owl.de
Organization: Arizona State University
Date: Tuesday, 15 Dec 1992 21:10:23 MST
From: SEAN P. GARRETT <IDSPG@ASUACAD.BITNET>
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: LOOK mtb pedals/shoes

While in a local shop today I noticed the LOOK pedal/shoe system
for mtbs.  Has any one had any experience with these offroad.
If not what about you roadies.  My questions are this...
1. Are they easy to get into/out of?
2. Do they last and how long?
3. How do they perform in general and racing?

Sean Garrett
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: odonnell@mpx2.lampf.lanl.gov (John M. O'Donnell)
Subject: Re: Suspension Debate
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: LAMPF Data Analysis Center, Los Alamos, New Mexico
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 21:51:00 GMT

In article <1992Dec16.125059.17184@osf.org>, david@postman.gr.osf.org (David George) writes...
> 
>I wonder if suspension bikes are more prone to stresses as the owners will
>be tempted to take them over much harder ground and will give them more
>abuse ?  Looking through the bike press a lot of the designs seem to be
>badly thought out for the sake of originality, seems like the mug buyer is
>being used to do the testing on a lot of this ironmongery, but I may be wrong.
> 
>David.

A guy from Mountain Goat gave a talk at the Fat Tire festival in Moab this
year. He said that they have changed how they weld their joints to cope with
the extra stress on joins on suspended bikes.  Adding suspension does not add
stress, but riding the bike harder due to the presence of suspension does add
more stress. 

John.
From: truesdel@ics.uci.edu (Scott Truesdell)
Subject: Re: Composite Spokes
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Organization: ICS Department, U.C.I.
Date: 17 Dec 92 06:03:21 GMT
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech


Nuke Proof Ti hubs are regarded quite highly. They're even moderately
reasonably priced for such exotica! They are light -- no arguement -- and
have a reputation for strength... so far.

Composite spokes are another story. I doubt there is much weight to be
saved. There are two major problems with convetional styled composite
spokes: (a) the elbow and (b) the nipple threads. I have seen pictures of
SS elbows and threads grafted onto the ends of bulky graphite fiber spokes.
These mechanical unions are destined to be heavy and trouble-prone. I
believe that if a satisfactory union is engineered, the results would be
heavier than your standard double-butted (swaged) spoke. And certainly
costlier.

I believe that quality SS double-butted spokes are both light enough and
strong enough. To me, this seems like the wrong place to be looking to save
weight.

  --scott

P.S. just for curiosity's sake I did some calculations to determine how
much weight was saved by spoking radially as opposed to cross 3 in a Ringle
SuperBubba hub. SuperBubba has a larger flange diameter than what might be
considered 'standard' so if radial spoking was to show a weight advantage,
this would be the big payoff. I came up with a rough-but-easy-to-visualize
savings of 2 spokes per wheel in saved weight. On a 32-hole Mavic 231 laced
to a Ringle SuperBubba hub the weight savings was equivalent to building
the wheel with 30 spokes instead of 32. That's significant enough to many
people, I guess...

Ringle's literature made me grimace when they bragged about how the larger
flange diameter would make wheels stiffer laterally. Not cross 3 it won't!
And at those angles, even the gains from going to a larger flange diameter
on a radially spoked wheel are almost insignificant compared to gains from
going to wider flange spacing. Oh well... once again my low opinion of
'Marketing' personnel has been justified.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: dwb@cbnewsb.cb.att.com (david.boyle)
Subject: Re: FM Radio
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 20:03:42 GMT

I haven't seen it discussed at all in the past year or so but here goes...

Does anyone ride with a bike-mounted fm radio?  If yes, where could I find
something decent?  How about getting good reception while riding?

I feel that a walkman type can be dangerous, even if you have earphones   
on low volume.  Any experience?  I know I can expect comments :-)
Thanks....................................................Dave
From: a_babel@pavo.concordia.ca (AARON BABEL)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: MTBs as racers
Date: 20 Dec 92 18:16:00 GMT
Organization: Concordia University
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41


	I own a Cannondale SM400 MTB, and I have found that it is just as
light as my associate's Trek 1400, if not lighter.  Aware of the fact that I
could replace my tires with slicks (Fatboys), but does anyone have practical
experience in adapting MTBs for racing?  So, essentially I am asking as to 
what would be the best brakes and gearing system which are made for C'dales,
that will give my bike and me effective racing capabilities.  Also, does any-
one know of the success rate of others who may have tried adapting their MTB
for the road (i.e. in time trials)?

Just want most out of my bicycle, before I alctualy buy a racer.

______________________________________________________________________________

"What a piece of work is a man. How noble in reason, how infinite in faculties,
in form and moving, how express and admirable, in action, how like an angel, 
in apprehension, how like a god."  (Hamlet:Shakespeare)
______________________________________________________________________________
From: richard@pegasus.com (Richard Foulk)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Club prices?
Date: 19 Dec 92 01:44:47 GMT
Organization: Pegasus,  Honolulu

Recently someone posted about a new bike that his club was selling at a
good price because the guy that ordered it didn't want it ...

What kind of prices do these clubs get?  What does it take to join?
Is membership (and buying priviledges) open to riders in other states?


-- 
Richard Foulk		richard@pegasus.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: twood@windward.it.uswc.uswest.com (Tim Woodward)
Subject: Re: Looking for rechargable battery supplier
Organization: U S WEST Information Technologies
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 20:02:09 GMT

In article <1992Dec16.230713.17194@src.dec.com> jcollias@src.dec.com (Jim Collias) writes:
>Hi all,
>
>I remember a thread about a month ago discussing the different ways of putting
>together a home-made bicycle lighting system. I'm gonna go ahead and start mine
>now, but I need some sources for a rechargable battery.  
>
>Anyone have an address or phone number of a good inexpensive battery supplier? 
>
>Thanks,
>Jim C.


Try Cermark electronics and model supplies. 
107 Edward Ave. Fullerton, CA 92633
(714) 680-5888

They sell R/C model supplies and have a large supply of all sizes of
Sanyo Nicads at good prices. 


Tim Woodward
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: josh@Happy-Man.com (Joshua_Putnam)
Subject: Re: Wider Rear Hub...will it work
Reply-To: Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com
Organization: Happy Man Corp., Vashon Island, WA 98070-7399
Distribution: rec.bicycles.tech
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 17:59:31 GMT

In <BRROWEN.92Dec16161547@dante.nmsu.edu> brrowen@nmsu.edu (ROWEN) writes:

>I have a '90 Bridgestone MB2 with a 130mm rear DX hub and a 122 mm BB.
>What I need to know is what do I need to do (or can I?) to put a 135
>mm rear hub on the thing. My 130mm DX hub has a trashed freewheel and
>I can get a new XT hub from a friend for 10 bucks but it is 135mm. I
>need a new BB also and can get a 125mm real cheap. Everyone I talk to
>says 130mm hubs are only found on old bikes and my best bet to
>preserve my shifting performance is to get my frame "re-dished". How
>bad will my shifting be with 5mm wider hub? Can I use the wider BB to
>compensate? Am I SOL, a victim of owing an obsolete 2 year old bike?

130mm hubs are still widely available and still appear on some
new mountain bikes (and quite a few road bikes).  Still, 135mm is
more common on mountain bikes these days, so you might find it
more convenient to have your frame spread.  This is a simple
operation and should not have any adverse effects on shifting.
It's also been discussed to death in this group recently.

As for the wider BB, you could simply put a spacer under the
fixex cup if it's a conventional BB.  
-- 
 Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com    Happy Man Corp.  206/463-9399 x102
 4410 SW Pt. Robinson Rd., Vashon Island, WA  98070-7399  fax x108
 We publish SOLID VALUE for the intelligent investor.  NextMail OK
Info free; sample $20: Send POSTAL addr: Solid-Value@happy-man.com
From: heard@qut.edu.au
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Chain link fracture
Date: 17 Dec 92 10:03:21 EST
Organization: Queensland University of Technology

On my way to work this morning my chain broke. Not in
any of the ways I have seen before, instead one of the
links actually fractured between the edges and one
of the holes, thus: 

                      *********
                     *         *
                    *    ***    *
                    *   *   *   *
                    *    ***    *
                     *         *
                     *         *
                     *         *
                     *         *
                    *    ***    *
                    *---*   *---*  <--- broke here

It was an inside link. 

Can anyone suggest why this type of break would occur?

The rest of the chain looked fairly worn, though the 
chain itself is not that old -- I guess I have done 
less than 4000 km with it. I usually take fair (but not 
obsessive) care of my chain, but I am just back from a 
1000 km tour in New Zealand, where the chain had to 
take care of itself.

Last time I replaced the chain I didn't also replace 
the rear cluster. Was this an error of judgement?

Advice would be greatly appreciated.

Take care
Ronno
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen)
Subject: Re: Cuts in Tires
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 92 02:16:27 GMT

In article <92349.074843TOM@SLACVM.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU> <TOM@SLACVM.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU> writes:
>Is there a way to repair cuts in tires?, Is it safe to ride with cuts? And
>will they grow over time?  I have a cut the goes across my tire, looks like
>glass got me.  I'm worried that it may split open when corning or when I brake
>at high speeds.

superglue works if the cut doesn't penetrate the casing.
as for cuts that go through the casing, i'm finding out.
just last week i got a 1/4" slash that went through the casing.
i repaired it with superglue and it seems to be holding fine.
the tire is a 700x20c slick that i run at 115 psi.  i've refrained
from any high speed riding (over 30 mph) until i can see how well
it holds up.  if it makes any difference, it's a michelin hilite comp.

i'd like to see what other people have to say about this.

-teddy
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: news@massey.ac.nz (USENET News System)
Subject: Re: CRANK PULLING PROBLEM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech
Organization: SMIS, Massey University
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 92 20:47:57 GMT

dhm1@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (DANIEL HILL MCCAULEY) wrote:

>     [...] I got one crank off but the
>     other side (side with chainrings) the threads inside the crank where the
>     crankpuller should screw in are totally stripped [...]
>     Well my question is:  How
>     should I go about taking this crank off without damaging the bottom
>     bracket shell.  I don't give a damn about the cranks, I'll break them if I
>     have to.  I already tried getting the fixed cup off, but failed.  I also
>     don't care about the bottom bracket.  All suggestions welcomed.

An all purpose automotive puller should do the trick.  These can be hired
from hire pools, or maybe borrowed from a mechanic.  Also, most bike shops
will have one to cover your situation.

--
Phil Etheridge               P.Etheridge@massey.ac.nz
Macintosh Consultant         Phone: +64+6-356-9099 x8689
SMIS, Massey University      Fax:   +64+6-350-5611
Palmerston North, NZ         40*23'S 175*37'E,    GMT+13
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: lloyd@leland.Stanford.EDU (William Koenig Lloyd)
Subject: Re: Chain link fracture
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 92 02:36:11 GMT

In article <1992Dec17.100321.60980@qut.edu.au> heard@qut.edu.au writes:
>On my way to work this morning my chain broke. Not in
>any of the ways I have seen before, instead one of the
>links actually fractured between the edges and one
>of the holes, thus: 
>
>                      *********
>                     *         *
>                    *    ***    *
>                    *   *   *   *
>                    *    ***    *
>                     *         *
>                     *         *
>                     *         *
>                     *         *
>                    *    ***    *
>                    *---*   *---*  <--- broke here
>
>It was an inside link. 
>
>Can anyone suggest why this type of break would occur?
>
>The rest of the chain looked fairly worn, though the 
>chain itself is not that old -- I guess I have done 
>less than 4000 km with it. I usually take fair (but not 
>obsessive) care of my chain, but I am just back from a 
>1000 km tour in New Zealand, where the chain had to 
>take care of itself.
>
>Last time I replaced the chain I didn't also replace 
>the rear cluster. Was this an error of judgement?
>
>Advice would be greatly appreciated.
>
>Take care
>Ronno

All the chains I've seen break have been from a pin slipping, but I have only
seen 3 or 4 break.  I would consider 4000 km to be a fairly old chain... I
try and replace mine every 1500 miles or so.  If you replace the chain
frequently enough, it doesn't stretch to the point where it begins to wear
away at the cogs really quickly, so there isn't any need to replace the
cogs every time you change the chain.  I'd say if you replaced your chain 
every 2500 km, you would probably be able to get at least 10000 km on your
cogs, though I always seem to change my gearing ratios before I wear them
out!

Bill
From: richard@pegasus.com (Richard Foulk)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Is bikecurrent OK?
Date: 19 Dec 92 01:14:03 GMT
Organization: Pegasus,  Honolulu

In article <1992Dec16.140327.1594@oakhill.sps.mot.com> mack@oakhill.sps.mot.com (Gregg Mack ( Sun )) writes:
>
>I'm wondering if the bikecurrent e-mail distribution is OK.  
>I haven't received anything since Saturday, and when I try
>to send e-mail to bikecurrent@zule.Eng.Sun.COM it bounces. :-(
>
>Anybody know anything?
>

Perhaps it `shot its wad'.  That's a pretty narrow topic to base a
mailing list on.


-- 
Richard Foulk		richard@pegasus.com
From: EPLUS17@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu (Richard Engelbrecht-Wiggans)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: CRANK PULLING PROBLEM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Date: 14 Dec 92 18:34:55 GMT
Article-I.D.: vmd.168BDB0F9.EPLUS17
Organization: C.C.S.O.

In article <1992Dec14.050719.86107@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu>
dhm1@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (DANIEL HILL MCCAULEY) writes:
 
>
>    I have a BIG problem.  I am trying to take the cranks off an old frame
>    because the cranks are shot beyond belief.  I got one crank off but the
>    other side (side with chainrings) the threads inside the crank where the
>    crankpuller should screw in are totally stripped, by some unknown reason.
>    Maybe a bike shop pulled a fast one years ago and replaced the cap nice
>    and tight so that I couldn't see the damage.  Well my question is:  How
>    should I go about taking this crank off without damaging the bottom
>    bracket shell.  I don't give a damn about the cranks, I'll break them if I
>    have to.  I already tried getting the fixed cup off, but failed.  I also
>    don't care about the bottom bracket.  All suggestions welcomed.
Are the cranks steel or alloy (or am I showing my age by asking...I do
have a nice pair of steel Campy cotterless cranks on one of my bikes,
so such things do exist)?  For alloy, take a hacksaw and cut into the
side of the crank toward the BB spindle.  This cut may need to be at
an angle--say 45 degrees--to the crank arm so that it clears things you
don't want to cut.  Repeat from the other side.  Continue hacking untilthere is
loosens it.  (In my case, on well placed cut sufficed, with hardly a
scratch on the spindle.)
 
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tthiel@cs.uiuc.edu (Terry Thiel)
Subject: What's the deal on Conti tubes?
Organization: University of Illinois, Dept. of Comp. Sci., Urbana, IL
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 13:02:36 GMT

I saw some Continental inner tubes at my local shop the other day and since
I needed some spares and revere Conti's tires I started to buy a couple
when I noticed they were $12.95 apiece!  Now I don't mind paying $30 bucks
or so for Grand Prix tires but but $12.95 is alot for a tube!  Anyone know
why they cost so much?  The local dealer said they're made by Panaracer.  Their
regular Panaracer tubes are only $4 or $5 so what's the diff?
-Terry
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: pete@mudhead.uottawa.ca (Pete Hickey)
Subject: Re: Front Brake Usage
Organization: Computing & Comm. Services, University of Ottawa
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 92 16:50:07 GMT

No, Jobst!!!!

In article <1460041@hplred.HPL.HP.COM> jbrandt@hplred.HPL.HP.COM (Jobst Brandt) writes:
>
>It's nice to see that old fables never die.  The idea that the bar
>stem will damage ones sex organs is a theoretical one that seems to
>impress every bicyclist who gave it a thought.  On the other hand,
 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^

You're destroying a moneymaker!  Make & sell a 'ball guard'.
Simply attach this padded device to the stem, and in the event of
an accident, it will gently glide your jewels over it as you go 
over the handle bars.  Don't you want to make money?????

Jobst goes on to say....

>I must assume there are all sorts of bicyclists, some of whom never
>need to decelerate rapidly.  The front brake on bicycles,
>motorcycles, and cars is the one that is most effective in slowing
>the vehicle.

Yes, *as long as your not on ice*!  I'm became 'lazy' this summer,
and got into the habit of using only my front brake.  About a week
ago we had our first slippery snowfall.  The first fall, was so fast,
that I didn't know what caused it.  Just before my second one,
I noticed the front wheel sliding strangely.  The pavement is a
good teacher, and I quickly lost the habit.

-Pete

*does* work best.bbb

-- 
Pete Hickey               | Pete@mudhead.uottawa.CA | "The trouble with eating
Communication Services    |   or (if desperate)     |  Italian food is that in
University of Ottawa      | petehic@uottawa.bitnet  |  five or six days, you're
Ottawa,Ont. Canada K1N 6N5|  (613) 564-7646         |  hungry again" G. Brown
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: ezag637@chpc.utexas.edu (Steve Manifold)
Subject: Ft. Derailleur
Organization: The University of Texas System - CHPC
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 92 19:52:06 GMT

Greetings, fellow netters:

I recently retired my beloved Ciocc SLX frameset, replacing it with
a Columbus EL frameset (not EL OS).  The EL tubing, being thinner
walled and without the benefit of having an oversized diameter is
noticeably more flexible, resulting in increased chain rub with the
front derailleur.  I am currently using a SunTour Superbe Pro front
derailleur.  I am interested in finding a wider cage front derailleur
so that I do not have to fine tune as much while riding.  The S.P.
front derailleur appears to have a narrower cage than most others I
have seen (10 mm).

Question - Does anybody know whether Campy Record or Chorus front
derailleurs have wider cages than Superbe Pro? 

Thanks in advance,

Steve
-- 
_______________________________________________________________________________
Steve Manifold                                              University of Texas 
ezag637@hermes.chpc.utexas.edu                      Center for Electromechanics
tasc637@crovax.cem.utexas.edu            "My other car is a piece of junk, too"
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech