HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks)
Subject: Re: Bad Alternator?
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 13:20:33 GMT

In article <Bw2vqM.A85@apollo.hp.com> heff@apollo.hp.com writes:
>
>If I can guarantee it's the alternator that's bad, I could
>replace it myself, but they run $75-$135 from an auto parts
>store.  How can I check it out?  Get the car started, and see if
>there's a healthy 12V on the output of the alternator?  Is there
>something behind the alternator in the system that could be bad
>and producing similar symptoms? 
It can be either the voltage regulator or the alternator itself. The normal
way to check it is to see if you've got around 14 volts across your battery.
If not, one bypasses the regulator (the method varies by car). If you've got
the ~14 volts, then it's the regulator, otherwise it's the alternator.

My personal experience with suddenly failing alternators is that they often
fail due to worn brushes. When the alternator in my wife's Toyota suddenly
crapped out the other week at 145k miles, I presumptiously went to the auto
parts store and bought a new set of brushes for ~$3 before even diagnosing
the problem. Pulled out the alternator, soldered in the new brushes, threw
out the very worn original brushes, and was back in action in about an hour.

Why did I suspect this? Because long ago, at 140k miles, my '73 Dodge did
the exact same thing. I found that by pushing on the brush holder in the 
back of the alternator, I could get it to start charging again. Hmm.
$2 for brushes or $50 for a rebuilt alternator - not a tough choice :-)

>Also, is it bad to disconnect the
>alternator and the battery while the car's running?  (My motorcycle

Yes. It's also unneccesary for proper diagnosis.
 
Ted Brooks
 ______________________________________________________________________
| Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are my own, and do not reflect    |
| those of my employer. Advice is free, but you get what you pay for.  |
|                               ________                               |
|                         _____|  1955  |_______                       |
|                        /      Chevrolet      /                       |
|                       /______  BelAir  _____/                        |
|                              |________|                              |
|______________________________________________________________________|
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
From: jgwynne@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (John S Gwynne)
Subject: Re: Lifting a JEEP Wrangler?
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 21:40:32 GMT

In article <Bvv126.C4M@news.larc.nasa.gov> DEVILBISS@OCTAVE.LARC.NASA.GOV (Zaphod Beeblebrox) writes:

>... I am looking into lifting my 1988 JEEP Wrangler...

The only good reason to lift a jeep is to put larger tires on it.
In the "Nuts and Bolts" section of the PETERSEN'S 4 WHEEL AND OFF-ROAD 
magazine (Aug 92), a similar question regarding a JEEP Wrangler was 
responded to as follows:

     With your lift combination [(4"suspension and 2" body)], you probably
  have room for the 33-inch tires, but we don't really recommend any tire 
  larger than 31x10.50. Why? Because the front and rear axles aren't up to
  the extra weight and leverage that the larger tires produce. The 
  Wrangler uses a Model 30 front axle like the Jeeps in the past. However,
  the steering knuckle and hub assembly are now quite different. Where 
  before the wheel and tire weight were carried on a spindle, the new 
  design actually carries the weight on the axle shaft, which is not as 
  strong.
     In the rear, the familiar Spicer Model 44 or AMC Model 20 has been 
  replaced with a downsized Spicer Model 35.
     Sure, you'll see Wranglers with 33s and even 35s, but they can expect
  early wear and breakage. If your Jeep is going to see some serious off-
  highway use, even with 31s, we recommend 4.11:1 gearsets.

   For more information on axles, the Oct issue of HOT ROD has a good 
article entitled "Axle Woes, Everything You Never Knew About Axle 
Shafts."

John Gwynne
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Tires : Slicks vs. Treaded: Help Please
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 10 Oct 92 06:36:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> "Grip" is also caused by the tire surface conforming to the road
-> surface at a macroscopic level.  A race tire will hold stones in the
-> rubber.  All the way around

 Soft autocross, drag, or dirt track tires do this, yes.  Back when I
was a newbie, I was in the pits and heard this weird rustling noise
behind me.  It was some guys pushing a single seater back from a DNF to
its pit.  The tires had picked up a number of cigarette butts, rocks,
sand, some gum wrappers, and (on the right front) a dime.  They looked
like sugar froster black donuts.

 Of course, while the car is under power and moving this junk gets
thrown or scrubbed off.
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 13:13:31 EDT
From: <QXF1@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: timing vs. smoke

Hi everyone, I found there is a strong relation between timing and smoking
on my 82 Civic.  Tuneup spec.  says timing advance should be 18 degrees.  I
could never do that.  If I put it at 18, it will knock like crazy and spit
out lots of blue smoke regardless of engine temperature.  Looks like ~7 to
10 degree is the biggest advance I can put on and the smoke will disappear.

So, any comment for you? Yes, you. :-)

Ching
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:13875 rec.autos.vw:5663
From: shinh@nmr-z.mgh.harvard.edu (Shinjiro Hirose)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.vw
Subject: over charging battery
Keywords: voltage regulator?
Date: 12 Oct 92 06:26:37 GMT
Distribution: all
Organization: Mass General Hospital NMR Imaging Center

Hi all,
I'm having problems with my battery in my 1970 VW/Porsche 914.
I replaced the alternator a few months ago, and noticed that my 
electrolyte level dropped all of the time after this.  Well, 
finally it dawned on me that my alternator was overcharging my
battery and boiling the electrolyte.  So, does anyone know
if my voltage regulator can be stuck in the "on" position?
The one time I've dealt with voltage regulators, they didn't
let enough charge through.  Can they fail in the opposite manner?
Thanks,
--Shin 


-- 
====================================================================

Shin Hirose
shinh@nmr-r.mgh.harvard.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty)
Subject: Re: oxygen sensor
Organization: New York State Institute for Sebastian Cabot Studies
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 21:09:06 GMT

In article <26055@oasys.dt.navy.mil> bense@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ronald Bense) writes:
>In rec.autos.tech, dbowman@warp (Don A. Bowman) writes:
>>The oxygen sensor is a fine platinum thing in the exhaust. It degrades
>>slowly, and will not suddenly fail. I would replace it as it is important to
>>your emissions. It shouldn't be expensive at all.

>Although I agree with you about the technical aspects, mine was $96.
>(And I got a 10% discount)

o2 sensor prices are a very strange deal.  while there are some bizarre
o2 sensors out there, by and large most of them fall into two categories:
1 wire bosch type, and 3 wire bosch type (there are aftermarket sensors that
emulate the bosch sensors.)  as near as i can tell, all 1 wire and all 3 wire
sensors are basically equivalent except for the connector on the end of the
wire, and for the fact that some have slightly quicker response and longer
lives than others (the bosch lasting the longest, and being the highest
quality.)

back when bosch was all you could get, many auto makers gouged on prices, and
bosch played along.  now that universals are available (they have 10" or 12"
tails, and you cut the old sensor wires out and graft in the new sensor,
using the original connector), bosch has responded by coming out with their
own universal one wire; they've not come out with their own universal
three wire yet.  the prices for the bosch universal one wire is comparable
to other comparable aftermarket universals.

since bosch hasn't come out with a three wire universal yet, here's the
trick: go to a ford dealer, and get a 5.0L mustang 3 wire.  it will work,
it's really a bosch, and it's relatively cheap.

cheers,
  richard
-- 
richard welty                            518-393-7228
welty@cabot.balltown.cma.com
  ``if you can read this, mario, you're too close''
    -- bumper sticker seen on a CART safety truck
From: ai065@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Thomas Hill)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Could This Problem Be The Fuel Pump?
Date: 10 Oct 1992 12:29:30 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc10.ins.cwru.edu


   I have an 83 Ranger with a 2.3 liter 4 cyl. engine. As of late it has been
running somewhat rough when at idle speed (almost sounds like a cylinder is
misfiring). This truck has recently had: carb tuning, new plugs, new wires,
timing set, oil change, new air filter, and gas treatment and Gumout sprayed
down the carb. Recently it started running rough at idle speed. I noticed that
when the key is on but the engine is not running I can hear a soft "knock...
knock...knock" noise coming from below and around the air filter somewhere. It
has since started making this noise after I slow down and come into idle speed.
Could this be the fuel pump not working properly when the engine is at idle?
Ideas are welcome.
-- 
George Bush? He doesn't have a clue anymore. Bill Clinton? A slick smile and
a pandering style. Neither one is being realistic about what it is going to
take. The answer..........? ROSS FOR BOSS! VOTE FOR ROSS PEROT FOR PRESIDENT!
The Cryptozoology Information Network. Want on our Email mailing list? Amiga!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: chun@gargoyle.uchicago.edu (Chun-Kuen Ho)
Subject: Re: Help Needed with 86 Nissan Sentra
Organization: University of Chicago Computing Organizations
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 18:12:52 GMT

In <1992Oct7.173149.22725@fs7.ece.cmu.edu> min@faraday.ece.cmu.edu (Min Ye) writes:

>Hi there:

>I bought an 86 Nissan Sentra last Dec. Now I find a problem with it.
>When I push the acceleration pedal, some time it just slows down 
>instead of speeding up, or some time the car knocks back and forth.
>When I'm starting the engine, it vibrates and tends to stop at the first
>several tries. Does anybody have any clue what's wrong? Can it be easily
>fixed? Thanks in advance!

>Min Ye
>min@faraday.ece.cmu.edu

i have experienced this problem before. my car (85 civic) would
hesitate under moderately heavy accelaration. i had to accelerate
gradually. so i decided to do a tune up. the timing of the engine was
alright but i found out that it was installed with platinium plugs by
the previous owner. the old plugs themselves looked ok, but the part
storeman said actually no platinium  plugs were recommneded for this
engine. so i bought new 'normal' plugs and put them in. and since then
hesitation was history....

my conclusion is that some engines do not work well with platinium
plugs. check your plugs, wires and timing. hope it helps.

chun-kuen ho



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hsd@swl.msd.ray.com (HERBERT DASILVA)
Subject: Re: Spark plug specs and old cars
Organization: Raytheon Company, Tewksbury, MA
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 17:15:34 GMT

  The rule of thumb for running spark plugs (in racing anyway) is run as
  cool as plug as you can without fouling.  Colder plugs resist detonation
  and run the entire engine cooler.  However, if you run too cold a plug
  you may not get a complete burn, and the plugs will foul.  Also realize
  that the Octane rating of gasoline was much higher in the '60s than it is
  today, and a cooler plug will probably result in less detonation with
  today's Regular octane gas.

  Try the Champion RN12YC, or N12YC, and see how your engine runs.  This is
  the plug spec'd to run in the post-catalytic slant-6 (and most other
  modern Mopars).  If you take the plugs out in 1000 miles and they're
  turning black, go back to the N14YC.  If the plugs stay clean, keep them.

	Herb "Mopar Maniac" DaSilva

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Re: Timing belts revisted (Re: Ford Escort Problems)
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 23:48:07 GMT

Timing belts also will slip a "cog" when they get worn.  Had this happen on
a '79 Rabbit at 105K.  It wasn't damaging (but this is only on gas fueled VW
engines) but it sure prevented it from running.  When you tried to start it,
it would crank at an incredable speed, but not run.

Mark
From: adamstr@cc.uvcc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Need Opinion on Caravan eng./trans.
Date: 7 Oct 92 23:34:36 GMT
Organization: Utah Valley Community College

I am considering the purchase of a Dodge Grand Caravan, and I am
wondering what the best engine/trans combo for this vehicle. According
to a brochure I got from my local dealer, I have 2 choices:

       3.0 litre engine / 3 spd trans
       3.3 litre engine / 4 spd trans

I have heard that the early versions of the 4 spd trans. had many problems.
Has anyone had experience with this? Any idea how the newer 4spd's are
holding out?  What would be the performance differences between these 2
set-ups? Thanks for the advice!  :-)

adamstr@cc.uvcc.edu
From: jxr@nsc29teradata.com (Jon Robertson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Performance Truck Parts
Date: 14 Oct 92 17:13:34 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: NCR/Teradata Business Unit

In article <1992Oct09.120739.115720@lexmark.com>, mollett@lexmark.com (Vic Mollett) writes:
|> I am considering building a performance mini-truck (not an off-road vehicle,
|> nor one of those trucks that rides 1mm off the pavement, but rather like the
|> SCCA racing trucks) and I'm trying to figure out which model has the most
|> suppliers of parts.  I know that most of the manufacturers have a racing truck,
|> but that does not mean that they do not fabricate a lot of the parts that they
|> use in the trucks.  If anyone can point me in the direction of suppliers and/or
|> publications that deal with the matter, I would be most appreciative!!  Also,
|> if anyone has any experience with building such a truck, I would be interested
|> in hearing that as well.
|> 
|> -- 
|>                                              /\    Vic Mollett
|>  These opinions are my own and do not       /  \   Lexmark International, Inc.
|>  necessarily reflect those of my employer.  \  /   mollett@lexmark.com
|>                                              \/  


       Not sure if I can be of much help on the body/suspension decisions but I	
can tell you that one of the most powerful small truck engines I've run into
is the Ford Ranger 2300. I use the Ranger 2300 in my USAC Midget and it puts
out over 300 h.p. Albeit this is with an aluminum head/fuel injection/methanol,
but you should be able to come up with something similar with pump gas (it all
depends on how much you want to spend). But, from personal experience, this is
the most hearty and reliable powerplant we've been able to come up with. Hi-perf
parts are readily available directly from Ford SVO, Ford Motorsports, and
Esslinger Engineering (the latter arguably at the front of the 4 cyl Ford 
performance development market). By it's overhead camshaft design, it's very
simple to push the motor to over 9500 rpm with a roller valvetrain. There's also
a stroker crank available that will allow you to push the motor from 140 CID to 	
160 CID.		

        Hope this helps,
            Jon Robertson
            USAC Midget #42
From: gt8166a@prism.gatech.EDU (DOERSCHUK,DAVID OAKES)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: electronic rustproofing.
Date: 9 Oct 92 21:29:05 GMT
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology

In article <2927645605.1.p00140@psilink.com> p00140@psilink.com (Gary A. Woodward) writes:
>What a tremendous resource this is!  Does anyone have any experience 
>with electronic rustproofing device for cars.  The supplier says (naturally)
>that it is currently used on bridges and heavy equipment in salt mines.  
>Is this product based on a sound foundation of research.  Or is it just 
>something else to sell the public?  Could it hurt my on board computer 
>in car?  

The railroads have used them ("sacrificials") for years, they seem to
work good, and are certainly based in valid chemistry.  They're often
just blocks of magnesium electrically connected to the car's body and
frame.  Instead of forming ferric oxide (rust) on the car's body,
you get magnesium oxide on the block of magnesium.  Eventually, the
magnesium has all turned to magnesium oxide, and you just replace it;
hence "sacrificial".  The main caveat is that you've GOT to have a
good electrical connection throughout the car's body panels and frame.
Next time you walk along a railroad track, look at the "joints" between
two pieces of track.  Notice that there's a big ground strap connecting
the two adjacent rails.  This is, in part, to keep all the track at the
same potential for safety reasons, but its also so that the track will
all be protected by the sacrificial.  I don't know the spacing of sacrificials
on the track (e.g. one block per mile?) or what the modern sacrificial is
made of (used to be magnesium), but the idea is that you've got to have
a high quality electrical connection between all parts of the car's body
and frame.

I can't think of any reason why using a sacrificial would cause any
problem with your car's computer.

You didn't mention how much they wanted for it, but if its more than 
about $40, I'd just go buy my own magnesium block and hook it up.  The
installation is moderately time intensive, since you really ought to make
sure (by testing) that all your body panels have a good quality electrical
connection to the point where you're attaching the block.

Probably the easiest place to find out more would be an intro chemistry
text.  I was trying to think of a railroading book that would have 
something about this, but I can't think of one.  

It isn't snake oil, it actually works.  Neat, huh?!

Good luck, and if you pursue it, let us all know what you find out.

Dave Doerschuk

-- 
Dave Doerschuk
Georgia Institute of Technology, Atlanta Georgia, 30332
uucp:	  ...!{decvax,hplabs,ncar,purdue,rutgers}!gatech!prism!gt8166a
Internet: gt8166a@prism.gatech.edu
From: kiviat@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Brian Kiviat)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Live axle vs. IRS
Date: 13 Oct 92 11:56:18 GMT
Reply-To: kiviat@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Brian Kiviat)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.autos.tech, rodder@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Jon D. Rodder) writes:
>How much more would you be willing to pay for a Camaro with IRS?  How
>many other people would be willing to pay a few thousand extra for it?

If it costs GM a few thousand dollars to put IRS on a cars, I know why the
Detroit car manufacturers are going down the toilet.

   O                                        You don't stop surfing
   I\   Brian Kiviat (301)227-1833          when you grow old,
   I \  kiviat@oasys.dt.navy.mil            you grow old
  /     David Taylor Model Basin            when you stop surfing.
   \___________________________
			     \\
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: moonhawk@bluemoon.rn.com (David Culberson)
Subject: Wanted **  Tailgate for 1969 Dodge A100 Cab Forward Pickup  **  Want
Organization: Blue Moon BBS ((614) 868-998[024])
Date: Thu, 08 Oct 92 00:28:42 EDT


  I want, nay, need a tailgate for a 1969 Dodge A100 pickup.  It is the
kind that use chain hooks to latch; one on either side.  Mine is rusted
very badly, and I want to restore it, and the tailgate is beyond salva-
tion.  Please, if you can help, help!  JC Whitney doesn't have it,
nobody in Hemming's Motor , most have never heard of it!

   Thanks a LOT for any help you can give!

                David


---
( - moonhawk@bluemoon.cmhnet.org - dac@dacami.cmhnet.org - )
( - David Culberson - Check out the BMS site at dacami!  - )
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: norcott_bill@tandem.com (Bill Norcott)
Subject: Re: Ford Tempo '86 problem
Reply-To: norcott_bill@tandem.com (Bill Norcott)
Organization: Tandem Computers, Inc.
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 19:10:11 GMT

In article <Bw4IK8.34@acsu.buffalo.edu>, C058SJLX@ubvm.cc.buffalo.edu writes:
|> 
|>    This car has a EFI system .  Two years ago it had the controler
|>   computer replaced (the car was recalled by the dealer).
|>     Now the car has a (I believe) related problem.  When the engine
|>  is cold the car runs OK.  After driving for about 15-20 minutes,
|>  when the engine warms-up, the engine runs irregularly and then
|>  it stalls.  After that I have to restart the engine at every stop.

Sounds like the oxygen sensor may be going or gone.  It is what 
controls the fuel/air mixture to the injector once the engine has
warmed up and has gone from open loop (idle mode) to closed loop
operation.  I have an '87 Topaz with the same engine.  I am thinking
about changing my oxygen sensor.  I was having similar problems 
before with the drivability when warm but fixed it by setting the
idle air speed adjustment screw to make it richer.  But this means
that when cold you have to hold down the gas for a minute after a
cold start.  The poor power on hills & stalling points to a too lean
mixture, so the O2 sensor may be bad. 

-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------|
Bill Norcott			GUARDIAN POSIX project
Tandem Computers, Inc.		
10600 N. Tantau Avenue		PHONE:  (408) 285-3253
Cupertino, CA   95014		EMAIL: norcott_bill@tandem.com


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: chohan@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Harpal Chohan)
Subject: Re: oxygen sensor
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 20:28:12 GMT

In article <1992Oct12.164128.18180@bnr.ca> Peon w/o Email priv (Eric Youngblood) writes:
>
>Conditions : Bench test (in air)
>                               
>   A small fan simulating an exhaust(air) flow causes the sensor to output about
>   0.20 to 0.25 volts indicating lean. (seems logical to me)
>
>   Shutting off the fan caused the voltage output to increase to about 0.9 volts.
>   Q1:Why would flow rate affect output? 
>   Q2:Does the sensor *need* a steady flow of gases to sample correctly?

I may be wrong, but the sensor, when installed on the car, has one end exposed
to the exhaust gases, and the other to the outside normal air. The sensor
material (ceramic zirconium dioxide), is conductive in the presence of
oxygen at temperatures of 300C or above. The voltage output depends on
the difference between the oxygen content of the exhaust side and the
outside end. So, measuring sensor output with both ends in the outside
ambient air, probably is meaningless. Or, it might just be making sense,
since with the fan off, it's measuring same O2 content on both ends,
indicating a rich mixture :-). I assume you did connect
the heater element, since the sensor was hot enough to be producing voltage
at all.

-h


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: njcs@cbnews.cb.att.com (jose.a.matos)
Subject: FORD THUNDERBIRD TURBO COUPE
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 13:03:36 GMT
Summary: Starting and information bank over email.
Keywords: Coupe


*
     I*******ATTENTION ALL FORD THUNDERBIRD TURBO COUPE OWNERS*********

	IF ANYONE IS INTERESTED IN SHARING SOME INFORMATION WITH
	OTHER TURBO COUPE OWNERS THIS IS A GREAT WAY TO DO IT, 
	PLUS FREE MECHANICAL ADVICE CAN ALWAY COME IN HANDY.

	IF YOU ARE INTERESTED, PLUS RESPOND BACK ON THIS ARTICLE
	OR EMIAL ME BACK, MY ADDRESS IS ON TOP.

	SO LITTLE TIME AND SO MUCH HIGHD, PLEASE RESPOND TO THIS ARTICLE 
From: Steve.Kaess@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Steve Kaess)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP