HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jsco@buzzardroost.az.stratus.com (Jeff Scott)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Mead
Date: 13 Apr 92 17:31:45 GMT

In article <zdtj9pl@lynx.unm.edu> justcoz@triton.unm.edu writes:
[]I'll stop there for this posting since I don't want to inspire too many  
flames,
[]but I will post more information (and recipes) as interest increases.

Thanks for your post in r.c.b! I have just begun my home brewing hobby and  
have somehow acquired a possibly unhealthy fascination with this mead  
substance. I have begun one batch (1 gallon) but would love to get more  
history and recipes for this concoction. Any information that you could  
provide or recommend would be greatly appreciated. Let me know, here's my  
address!

Thanks,

Jeff

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jeffrey E. Scott                 jsco@az.stratus.com (NeXT Mail)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Opinions expressed are my own and not that of Stratus Computers, NUF SAID!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
All things in moderation, ESPECIALLY moderation!!          
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: richer@HQ.Ileaf.COM (Al Richer)
Subject: Height/depth of grain bed for sparge
Reply-To: richer@HQ.Ileaf.COM (Al Richer)
Organization: Interleaf, Inc.
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 92 13:40:17 GMT

 Hi, folks, it's me again...

 A question to the Quorum, if I may, about grain bed depths for proper
sparging.

 I'm in the process of building a RIMS unit, and have acquired a defunct
Cornelius keg to use as a lauter tun. In consideration, it seems that a
narrow, fairly deep grain bed would be a good thing, as the liquid would
have farther to go through grain. Is there an optimiun, and am I likely
to exced it with a cylinder of that size?

					Awaiting your reply,

					  ajr 
-- 
_________________________________________________________
 Alan J. Richer              Mail:  richer@hq.ileaf.com
 Interleaf, Inc.             All std. disclaimers apply 			
 9 Hillside Ave.                  Your mileage may vary 
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: shag@aero.org (Robert M. Unverzagt)
Subject: Plastic vs glass
Organization: The Aerospace Corporation, El Segundo, CA
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1992 20:13:40 GMT

I hate to resurrect this old thread, but here it goes:
was there ever any resolution on the "plastic vs glass
carboy" issue?  I stopped following it in mid-course,
and now am planning to use a plastic carboy for the
first time.  Does anybody happen to have a summary of
the results of the debate?  A high signal-to-noise 
ratio would be appreciated.  Thanks in advance.

Shag

-- 
                          |
      Rob Unverzagt       |     Hey you, Whitehouse,
 shag@aerospace.aero.org  |     Ha ha, charade you are.
                          |                             -- The Pink Floyd
From: abirenbo@rigel.cel.scg.hac.com (Aaron Birenboim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: CO2/Alcohol production
Date: 10 Apr 92 20:11:05 GMT
Organization: Hughes Aircraft Colorado Engineering Labs

In article <vdsjlp#.cmilono@netcom.com> cmilono@netcom.com (Carlo Milono) writes:
>
>I must have read the same paragraph before, but never paused to think
>about it.  It seems that O2 is necessary for the yeast to produce CO2,
>and that in the absence of O2, the only byproduct of yeast metabolism is
>alcohol, rather than alcohol *and* CO2.

i don't think so.  i think yeast needs O2 to REPRODUCE, but not
to ferment.  Fermentation actually breaks sugars into alchahol
and CO2.  The CO2 was already used in the sugar structure.

they yeast does, however use O2 durring the "lag" phase while
it is doing a lot of reproducing, but not much fermenting.

>Now, when you boil your wort, you basically divest it of any O2, and
>hence must introduce O2 at the time of pitching the yeast, or you might
>get a stuck fermentation.

  stuck?  maybe, maybe not.  your yeast will not re-produce
well, and the ferment will be very slow, and susceptible to
infection since the yeast are not starting other beasties out.

>However, O2 gets depleted rather rapidly, and the bubbles seem to slow
>as the fermentation nears completion - again that makes sense.

  yup, but thats because there is no more CO2 readily available
from the sugar.  The O2 has been totally scrubbed out for weeks
by now.

>  When
>the fermentation is complete (or at the appropriate Terminal Specific
>Gravity), you prime and bottle - and throughout all racking, you do your
>utmost to exclude O2 for oxidation purposes.  Now, if I have done a
>perfect job of excluding O2, just how can the yeast produce carbonation
>in the bottle?

see above.  they can ferment, just not reproduce.

>I just might make a pint of wort and rack it into a bottle that has been
>filled with CO2 - or architect some method of excluding O2 from the wort,
>then pitch...I suspect a very, very sluggish ferment,

yup

> but (according to the
>above logic) I would expect a flat alcoholic beverage;

maybe.  most likely it will get infected by some microbe which
needs no O2 to reproduce.

--
Aaron Birenboim                                |I am just too tired to think
abirenbo%rigel.cel.scg.hac.com@hac2arpa.hac.com|of a good quote.
abirenbo@isis.cs.du.edu                        |    - ChickenHead
w (303) 344-6486                               |
From: gak@gakbox.Corp.Sun.COM (Richard Stueven)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Posting recipes (was Re: Yeast Energizer vs. Yeast Nutrient)
Date: 6 Apr 92 22:59:10 GMT
Reply-To: gak@gakbox.Corp.Sun.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
NNTP-Posting-Host: gakbox.corp.sun.com

In article 44091@mentor.cc.purdue.edu, frosty@mentor.cc.purdue.edu (Frosty D. Snowman) writes:
>ps  If anyone is interested in taking a look at my reicpe and seeing what
>you think (and give suggestions) please let me know. 

I for one am always interested in seeing other brewers' recipes!  Would
I be too far out of line to suggest that _whenever_ someone posts
something regarding a specific batch of their beer, they should include
the recipe and any brewing notes in the original post?  Not only would
that make troubleshooting a lot easier, but it also gives your recipes
exposure to other brewers so they can try the same thing.

Gute idee oder nicht?

---
Richard Stueven       AHA# 22584 |----------| 
Internet:       gak@Corp.Sun.COM |----GO----| Ya tvoi sluga.
ATTMAIL:         ...!attmail!gak |---SHARX--| Ya tvoi rabotnik.
Cow Palace: Sec 107 Row F Seat 9 |----------|
From: brown@slc8.INS.CWRU.Edu (Dan Brown)
Subject: Re: need bottle capper recomendation
Organization: Subversive Student Publications un-inc.
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 92 01:26:36 GMT

In an earlier posting hartp@sprak.West.Sun.COM writes:
>I'm in the market for a new capper, and would like some opinions.
>
>I use many diffrent size bottles when I rack, so I would like one that
>adjusts quickly. I Like the ones that look like a drill press, but given


In a similar vein, I would like to get a capper that puts on "European"
size caps, and of course, a supply of the caps. I am talking about the
size caps that would fit on bottles like Lindemans Labic bottles, or many
of the Champainge bottles. 

Later.
Dan
-- 
Dan Brown
brown@ins.cwru.edu
From: mbiggs@garnet.berkeley.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Anyone like Montery Brewing Company?
Date: 7 Apr 92 00:33:14 GMT
Article-I.D.: agate.rqqkaINN75t
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
NNTP-Posting-Host: garnet.berkeley.edu

Can we please move this conversation to alt.beer?  Thank you.
Xref: sparky rec.crafts.textiles:819 soc.culture.celtic:3377 soc.roots:3231
From: TACON019@ysub.ysu.edu (Fred Ullom)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles,soc.culture.celtic,soc.roots
Subject: Clans & Tartans
Date: 6 Apr 92 14:43:14 GMT
Article-I.D.: ysub.92097.104314TACON019
Organization: Youngstown State University

In Robert Bain's book, "Clans and Tartans of Scotland", he lists on page 290
an association of family names with clans. He states:

Clan septs were of two classes: clansmen of the clan who were related by blood
and formed separate branches and individuals and groups who sought and
obtained the protection of the clan. This resulted in a clan having septs of
different surnames, also persons with the same surname might be attached to
different clans. Many septs now have tartans of their own.

I'm assuming that this implies that it is acceptable and appropriate for
people with these surnames to wear the associated clan tartan. Is that
correct? Also, if the surname has developed a tartan of their own, are they
still permitted to wear the tartan of their previous association?

This list is quite a few pages long and I would like it in clan order. Does
anybody have this type of list in machine-readable form they could send me?

As a weaver, I'm in need of current information about the weaving setts of
various Tartans. My best reference source is a book by Scarlett - I think
its called a Tartan Weaver's Guide or something like that. This book is fine
but obviously not complete. Does anybody know of any other sources for
weaving setts?  The Bain book mentions that Tartans are registered and
regulated by the Registers at Lyons Court. Is this still the case? Is there
a way to inquire at the Lyons Court about a particular Tartan sett?

Thanks,
-Fred
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Fred S. Ullom
tacon019@ysub.ysu.edu
Youngstown State University
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles,alt.sewing
From: alg@cs.cornell.edu (Anne Louise Gockel)
Subject: Sourcebook from Carikeen Publishing
Organization: Cornell Univ. CS Dept, Ithaca NY 14853
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 19:00:56 GMT


An old posting or mail file mentioned that trying a place called Carikean
Publishing for information about different kinds of patterns.  In particular
the posting said:

>Anyway, I found an address in my copy of Update Newsletters' "Sew-By-Mail
>Directory" for a company which carries "Patterns from over 50 companies".  So
>perhaps they also carry Burda.
>
>		Carikean Publishing
>		Box 11771P
>		Chicago, IL 60611-0771
>
>It also says to include a double-stamped LSASE with your inquiry.
>


Turns out that Carikean publishes a mail-order sourcebook similar to the
_Fabric and Fiber Sourcebook_ by Bobbi MacRae.  It's about $20, but I can't
tell when it was published, etc.  ('Fraid I've forgotten the name of the book
too.)

Does anyone know about this sourcebook?  Has anyone compared this book to the
book by MacRae?  Does anyone know when this book was published?  I've never
seen this book mentioned anywhere else so I'm sorta curious about it.

					-Anne Louise Gockel
					Cornell Computer Science

Internet: alg@cs.cornell.edu		UUCP: cornell!alg
Xref: sparky rec.crafts.textiles:822 soc.culture.celtic:3399 soc.roots:3258
From: imcc@cs.strath.ac.uk (Iain McCord)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles,soc.culture.celtic,soc.roots
Subject: Re: Clans & Tartans
Date: 7 Apr 92 11:11:18 GMT
Organization: Comp. Sci. Dept., Strathclyde Univ., Scotland.


  Some of the names associated with tartans is due to either the weaver, or
region of origin.  Others were given when tartan became trendy ( Georgian &
Victorian ).  There are paintings of lairds and clan cheiftans wearing a 
mixture of tartan.  I find the idea that clans wore some kind of uniform to 
be a strange one.
  Note also that the kilt most probably originated as part of a military
uniform.

		~~~~~/\~~~~~
Iain McCord	~~~~/()\~~~~	Tue Apr  7 12:11:16 WET DST 1992
		~~~~~~~~~~~~
From: cdfk@otter.hpl.hp.com (Caroline Knight)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 16:38:29 GMT
Subject: Re: sewing tape bags
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories, Bristol, UK.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles


 I have recently made a whole batch of drawstring bags (for a role
 playing game designed by my nearest and dearest).

 I used an eyelet hole punch to made holes around the tops of the bags -
 the punch kit comes with a set of eyelets in different colours which
 made nice reinforced holes that do not fray or stretch.  I then
 threaded shoe laces through the holes for the pull strings.

 I was very glad of my overlocker to make the sides of the bags neat and
 seamed at the same time.  I used an upholstery fabric which gave the
 bags a lot of substance.  If I was planning on not using a sewing
 machine I might use felt which could be glued, stapled or sewn quickly
 using stab stitch.

 You might find felt rather expensive though.  For a nice substantial
 fabric that takes colour well and is cheap you cannot beat calico
 (IMHO).  Unfortunately calico frays so needs better seams.  If you
 cannot borrow a sewing machine you could try to devise an interesting
 stapled seam, which with silver coloured eyelets and silver and black
 paint on the fabric might look ok. 

 When making the bags, you have a choice about whether to make them so
 that the seams are on both sides of the bag or one on a side and the
 other across the bottom.  I tried both and liked both.  With the
 asymetrical sides a single pull-string is okay, with symetrical sides
 you can do a fancier, and more secure, fastening with two strings to be
 pulled to each side.

 Hope your bag making project goes well - good luck!

 Caroline

 Hope your bag making project goes well - good luck!

 Caroline


-----------------------------------------------------------------
Caroline Knight   HPLabs Filton Rd Stoke Gifford Bristol BS12 6QZ

FAX: 0272 228796                         cdfk%hplb.uucp@ukc.ac.uk
Tel: 0272 228040                            cdfk@hplb.lb.hp.co.uk
Switchboard: 0272 799910                     cdfk@hplb.hpl.hp.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------


Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: sbowen@gmuvax2.gmu.edu (Susan Bowen)
Subject: Dates and Times for the Maryland Sheep & Wool Festival
Keywords: festival, wool, fiber
Organization: George Mason University, Fairfax Va.
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1992 14:50:18 GMT

The Maryland Sheep and Wool Festival is at the Howard County Fairgrounds
in Howard County, MD on May 2nd and 3rd. The events start early, around
7:30 or 8:00 am and go till around 5:00 pm.

This would have been included in my previous posting had I known the
original request with this info had expired. Also, this is an East Coast
event. It is worth coming East to see, but I haven't heard of it
happening often. :-)

Sue
sbowen@gmuvax.gmu.edu
    
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: MAHE@YaleVM.YCC.Yale.Edu
Subject: Re: a question about where to find Japanese cotton in SF
Organization: Yale University
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 92 12:25:26 EDT

All those Berkeley stores are within easy reach of the Berkeley BART
station ($4 round trip, 20mn one way from downtown SF).
You get out on the escalator in the main rotunda and have 2 ways to go,
both along Shattuck avenue:
South about 5 blocks past Haste, on the right you have Stone Mountain
& Daughters.
Still going South, get on the 51 bus and get out at the first stop on Broadway
for Poppy fabrics, a wonderful general fabric store, with lots of patterns,
notions and books.
Or walk North on Shattuck, about 1 1/2 block to Kaufman fabrics, the junky
fabric store on your left.  i've had many good finds there, the fabric is
much better than the decor and the prices are good.  For instance, they have
one of the best selections of swimsuit fabrics in the Bay Area.
I've also recently acquired some out of print Issey Miyake patterns there.
They're connected via the back to a huge upholstery fabric store, which is
well worth the trip.
More to the original point, if you keep walking North two blocks you'll
find Kasuri Dyeworks on the right, on the block between University and Hearst.
Then if you can still stand, you can get onto the F bus going North and
get to Solano Avenue for New Pieces.
 
Marie-Christine
mahe-marie-christine@yale.edu
From: Marina.Salume@Corp.Sun.COM (Marina Salume)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Re:a question about where to find real Japanese cotton in SF
Date: 13 Apr 92 22:29:15 GMT
Article-I.D.: marny.9204132229.AA05477

> the whole day over there. You may even be able to find the bus that
> will take you south a ways to New Pieces in Solano Avenue,

*I would guess that New Pieces is north of Kasuri Dyeworks, since
*Solano Ave is north of UC Berkeley, but I haven't been to either
*store, so I can't say for sure.  Marina?
*
*Karen

Yes, New Pieces is north of UC Berkeley. (my mistake! can you tell I
have never taken public transit on that side of the Bay? :-)

There is even a BART line
that runs a couple of blocks away from New Pieces, but I'm not sure
how far away the station is. There may also be a bus line that heads
up that way. I'm sure the friendly folks at New Pieces could let you
know. Eat lunch at Walker Pie Shop on Solano Avenue while you are there--
their rhubarb pie is the best! (of course, there are also some good
Japanese and Chinese places to eat, also a great dollhouse miniatures
store, etc.)

And there is at least one fabric shop near Kasuri Dyeworks, also I'm not
sure how far Lacis is from there, but that's another "must see"--all 
kinds of weird sewing implements, many from the good old days, also
old lace and lacemaking tools, etc etc. A veritable museum of a store.
They should charge admission, but I'm glad they don't.

--marina
Xref: sparky rec.crafts.textiles:830 soc.culture.celtic:3429 soc.roots:3281
From: silva@ide.com (Carmen Silva)
Subject: Re: Questions about Doing the Kinsale Cloak (Re: cape pattern needed)
Organization: IDE, San Francisco
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 92 16:30:06 GMT


I used heavy 100% cotton purple robe velour to make a Kinsale cloak last
winter.  Not only is it beautiful, it is machine washable!  My machine is
an old (~1960) Singer, the kind that uses small black plastic disks to do
fancy stiches (for example, zig-zags). 
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles,alt.sewing
From: libu@jane.uh.edu (Martin, Elizabeth R.)
Subject: re: Ironing, and children's rhyme about housework
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: University of Houston
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 16:08:00 GMT

In article <1992Apr3.104932.17549@newstand.syr.edu>, jareed@rodan.acs.syr.edu (Judith Ann Reed) writes...
>In article <1992Apr2.141540.27300@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu> dmiller@theory.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller) writes:
>>
>>Now you can see why laundry was done over several days. Monday for washing, 
>>Tuesday for drying, Wednesday for ironing.  I often wondered what happened 
>>if Tuesday was rainy. :-)
>>
>>
>>--Jill
> 
> This is quite a bit off the topic, but I've been trying for years to
> remember the words to the children's song we used to sing that detailed
> what was done on each day of the week, and the above post reminded me of
> that. Anyone know the words to the song that goes:
> 
> "This is the way we wash the clothes, 
>  wash the clothes, wash the clothes,
>  this is the way we wash the clothes,
>  so early Monday morning.
> 
>  This is the way we dry the clothes,
>  dry the clothes, dry the clothes,
>  this is the way we dry the clothes,
>  so early Tuesday morning."
> 
>  Is this correct so far? 
>  What happens on the other days of the week? Anyone remember?
> 
>  I have images of little girls and mommies in 50's style dresses
>  hanging clothes on the line - must be from a picture book I read.
> 
>  To get a bit closer to the topic, does anyone have any 50's style
>  dress/clothes patterns for little girls, size 3 or 4, that they want
>  to part with? I'm wanting to sew some things for my littlest girl like
>  what my mom used to make me, before she gets too old to let me dress
>  her up!!! 
> 
>  Also, is there any interest here in a pattern exchange? I can't be the
>  only one with zillions of patterns I no longer have any use for, particularly
>  kids sizes too small for my daughters, ages 2, 9 and 14, or that they
>  won't wear. 
>  Contact me if interested, via email, perhaps I could consolidate info
>  and post it as a single post.
> 
> Judith Reed
> judith@suhep.phy.syr.edu
> jareed@rodan.acs.syr.edu

Judith,

I don't know if this will help you or not, but you may be able to find some
of the patterns that you are looking for in antique/colectable shops.  I have
on several occasions found several of the 50's style patterns in these type 
shops that I purchased for myself.  One note though, some of these patterns 
have no markings on them like todays patterns, and do require a higher level of 
expertise so be prepared.  Also the sizes are a little different, before
you waste material, test the size of the pattern out to make sure it fits.  
I wear a size 12 and found that I must purchase a size 14 and sometimes a 
16 to get the dress to fit right.


Elizabeth E. Martin
libu@jetson.uh.edu

Organization: Network Development, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1992 18:30:35 -0400 
From: "Karen L. Frisa" <kf1j+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: a question about where to find Japanese cotton in SF

Marina.Salume@Corp.Sun.COM (Marina Salume) writes:
> Kasuri Dyeworks in Berkeley has the REAL stuff, genuine cottons from
> Japan. Expensive but well worth it. You can take BART over there
> from SF--just call the shop and ask them to tell you which station
> and directions from the station. They are located very close to UC
> Berkeley in a fun university shopping district so you could spend
> the whole day over there. You may even be able to find the bus that
> will take you south a ways to New Pieces in Solano Avenue,

I would guess that New Pieces is north of Kasuri Dyeworks, since
Solano Ave is north of UC Berkeley, but I haven't been to either
store, so I can't say for sure.  Marina?

Karen

P.S.  Thanks for all the info... now I'm *really* looking forward to
my next trip back!
From: daveu@sco.COM (Dave Uebele)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Re: Questions about Doing the Kinsale Cloak (Re: cape pattern needed)
Date: Wed, 08 Apr 92 19:07:19 GMT
Organization: SCO Engineering, 150 Dubious St.



Add me to the list of people that have made the Kinsale Cloak. I made it
out of a pants weight wool blend (it was on the remnant table, no idea
of the acutual fiber content) with a silk lining.
I think the silk adds more warmth than the wool blend.

What I did to handle the gathers/fullness in the neck seam was to pleat
that seam. (I hate gathering more than pleating). What I did was pin both ends
and then take the midpoint of the collar and the body and pinned those
two points together.  I then took each half and joined the new midpoints
together. Repeat this until you have pins every 1-2 inches apart.
I then folded the remaning fullness towards the center back (reversing
direction of the pleats at center back).
I ended up with two folds of the oposing pleats meeting at the
center back (on the outside) and an approx 2-3 inch wide folds going out
section on the inside.

I'm planning my next cloak and this is what I plan on doing different.
1. Use a heavier weight wool (I want this to double as a sleeping bag).
2. more interfacing in the collar so I can shape it better
3. Optionally add an interlining (Very warm cloak ;-)

I'll probably use silk for the lining again (maybe flannel) and I'll
definately do the pleating again. I really like the way it looks.
The pleats are not measured, just eyeballed to look even on both sides.
I also lengthened the pattern since I'm about 6' 2'" tall. I can 
completely envelope shorter friends, its fun.

I have several other cloak patterns and I may try something other than the
Kinsale cloak this time.  The Amazon Vinegar and Pickling Works has various
cloak patterns that I've collected over time. I might try the Shaker cloak.
It uses a number of darts to get the fullness at the bottom slimmed
into something managable at the top.
Just about all these patterns call for quite of bit of material and with
the price of wool what it is, they are usually a serious investment.

dave
-- 
Dave Uebele	uunet!sco!daveu  or daveu@sco.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles,alt.sewing