HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: paal-sb@hsr.no (Paal Steinar Berg)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: 1/12 or 1/10 electric on-road cars
Date: 31 Aug 92 10:51:45 GMT
Organization: Rogaland University Centre


In article <1992Aug28.170511.23271@bmerh85.bnr.ca>, yiky@bcarh29a.bnr.ca (YikHon Yu) writes:
> Hi,
> 
> I would like to find out what 1/12 or 1/10 electric
> on-road cars the netters out there are running. I am
> new to this hobby and want advice on which car I should
> purchase mainly for recreation, but will also be competitive
> enough for the occasional weekend races.
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> Yik
> 
>
We're talking on-road here, right? 
What kind of racing did you have in mind?
Oval, roadtrack, parking lot special?
I suppose you'l have to go with one of the direct drive, stiff axle type since i
believe that you can't run a fully sprung car in races. If you can , you should
check out the Serpent TenForce which is a 1/10 scale onroad racer with fully
independent suspension and belt drive. If not, check out the associate 10L ore
some other pan car.

If you're interested in gas cars, let me know ok?

Later

Paal
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: bobwo@ecs.comm.mot.com (Bob Woodhouse)
Subject: Re: Independently sprung 1/10 scale
Organization: secure_comm
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 12:17:46 GMT

In article <1992Sep1.083242.18121@hsr.no> paal-sb@hsr.no (Paal Steinar Berg) writes:
>> I am thinking of some parking lot fun and the occasional carpet
>> racing. I am not sure which car will suit my need the best but
>> I am thinking along the line of a BoLink Eliminator 10, BoLink
>> Super Sport, or Associated RC10L. Other cheaper choices may be
>> a BoLink Sport 91 or something like that.
>> 
>> Any recommendation on the above cars?
>
>I'm not an expert on 1/10 on-roaders, but i think that maybe the 10L is the
>better choise since it's newer than the Eliminator, but check with your local
>racers and well-known magazines.
>> 
>> Why are fully sprung cars not allowed in races? I thought
>> most 1/12 and 1/10 on-road cars nowaday has the 3P suspension
>> system (2 spring in front and a coil over shock in the back with
>> a twist plate).
>
>The TenForce has fully independent suspension, i.e. it has double wishbone
>(A-arms) suspension on all wheels, and oil filled shocks all around.

[deleted]
>
>Paal  

I was once looking for a parking lot car that would be an improvement over
my Kyosho Scale Series car.  In my first and recent attempt to put a modified
motor in the car (a 12 double on 6 cells) I stripped some plastic gears and
decided that if I wanted to race parking lots again, I would get a new car.
A car that catches my eye is the Trinity Reflex10.  It is direct drive and has
independent suspension.  It also has a totally enclosed gear box for the direct-
drive gears which would be great to filter out those annoying parking lot pebbles.
It is an expensive car at about $230, but it has some goodies like titanium
turnbuckles and lots of graphite.  This is sold as a dirt oval car and would
do well if you ever wanted to race dirt ovals.

Good day,
Bob Woodhouse
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: svoboda@rtsg.mot.com (David Svoboda)
Subject: Re: sailplane receivers
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 04:01:10 GMT

In article <n2bn8vd.wd6cmu@netcom.com> wd6cmu@netcom.com (Eric Williams) writes:
|I am about to upgrade my radio equipment and have pretty much settled
|on the Ace Micropro 8000 transmitter (comments, anyone?) but would
|like advice on what receivers are available.  I am looking for a
|micro-sized receiver with no more than 4 or 5 channels, either AM or
|FM (FM is slightly preferred) that would be suitable for use in
|sailplanes and is available for the 50 and/or 53MHz bands.

I think you don't have a choice in the matter.  If I'm not mistaken,
the Ace Micropro is a strictly AM radio, which restricts you to a
strictly AM receiver.  Or is Ace now producing FM transmitters?  (I
spoke to Mrs Runge last year, and she told me they were working some
bugs out of an FM design they have been developing.  No telling if
it ever makes it to market.  It would have to show a clear advantage
over their current product, which works fine.)

		Dave Svoboda, Palatine, IL
From: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib)
Subject: Re: crummy glow plugs? And rejuvenating worn piston/liner sets..
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1992 04:13:35 GMT

In article <Btq697.4nz@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu> ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib) writes:

>By the way, if your liner has worn down to the brass, or even if you 
>have an iron piston/liner that is somewhat worn, you can send it off
>for "chroming". A few people do this. Bob Oge comes to mind. I'll have
>to dig up his address... we visited his house during the big Chicago 
>thousand dollar meet two weekends ago, so I got to see his chroming 
>setup. 


Heres his address:

Bob Oge
53W598 Owens Road
Hinckley, IL (darn no zip code)
Phone: (???)286-3969




-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Iskandar Taib                          | The only thing worse than Peach ala
Internet: NTAIB@SILVER.UCS.INDIANA.EDU |    Frog is Frog ala Peach
Bitnet:   NTAIB@IUBACS                 !
From: lee@nuchat.sccsi.com (Bill Lee)
Subject: Re: crummy glow plugs? And rejuvenating worn piston/liner sets..
Organization: /etc/organization
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 03:30:01 GMT

In article <Bts3qo.GAA@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu> ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib) writes:
>In article <Btq697.4nz@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu> ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib) writes:
>
>>By the way, if your liner has worn down to the brass, or even if you 
>>have an iron piston/liner that is somewhat worn, you can send it off
>>for "chroming". A few people do this. Bob Oge comes to mind. I'll have
>>to dig up his address... we visited his house during the big Chicago 
>>thousand dollar meet two weekends ago, so I got to see his chroming 
>>setup. 
>
>
>Heres his address:
>
>Bob Oge
>53W598 Owens Road
>Hinckley, IL (darn no zip code)
>Phone: (???)286-3969
>
>
>
>
>-- 
>-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Iskandar Taib                          | The only thing worse than Peach ala
>Internet: NTAIB@SILVER.UCS.INDIANA.EDU |    Frog is Frog ala Peach
>Bitnet:   NTAIB@IUBACS                 !


Here's another (better?) address for Bob Oge (Or "The Ogre" as he is widely
known:

Bob Oge
Rt. 1, Box 61
Hinckley, IL 60520



Regards,

Bill Lee
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: paal-sb@hsr.no (Paal Steinar Berg)
Subject: Independently sprung 1/10 scale
Organization: Rogaland University Centre
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 08:32:42 GMT

> I am thinking of some parking lot fun and the occasional carpet
> racing. I am not sure which car will suit my need the best but
> I am thinking along the line of a BoLink Eliminator 10, BoLink
> Super Sport, or Associated RC10L. Other cheaper choices may be
> a BoLink Sport 91 or something like that.
> 
> Any recommendation on the above cars?

I'm not an expert on 1/10 on-roaders, but i think that maybe the 10L is the
better choise since it's newer than the Eliminator, but check with your local
racers and well-known magazines.
> 
> Why are fully sprung cars not allowed in races? I thought
> most 1/12 and 1/10 on-road cars nowaday has the 3P suspension
> system (2 spring in front and a coil over shock in the back with
> a twist plate).

The TenForce has fully independent suspension, i.e. it has double wishbone
(A-arms) suspension on all wheels, and oil filled shocks all around. This system
is a vast improvement over the sliding pillar and T-frame method since the
unsprung weight is lower and the suspension movement is better and you have a
lot more of suspension tuning possibilities. On a perfectly smooth surface like
an indoor carpet track the fully sprung car (TenForce) has no special
advantages, but outdoors on a bumpu track it certanly should work better. Most
gas onroaders was of the 3P suspension type, but now all competition cars have
4W suspension, 2-speed gearboxes and 4-wheel drive. Here in Europe the fully
sprung 1/10 scale cars has their owh class. I thin that "ove there" you could
have problems in entering the fully spring cars in a race, but check it out
with your local track. If you are allowed, I think that they would dissalow you
if you started winning all the races...Anyway check out your local track, and
get their wiews about cars.

Paal
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: m14494@mwvm.mitre.org (Mike White)
Subject: Re: Submarines anyone?
Organization: The MITRE Corporation
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 15:57:51 GMT

Bob Lawrence writes:
> ...I yearn for an RC submarine.

Several are available, advertised in all the rc mags.  The biggest one is 
around 6 ft, and has working balast tanks.

An interesting historical note is that one of the very, very, very first
RC models was in fact an RC submarine.  Nicola Tesla (the *true* inventor of
radio: look it up!) gave public (and well documented) demonstrations of radio 
controlled boats and submarines in the early 1900s in New York City, using
spark gap radio equipment! Some of the demos were in a large tank in Madison
Square Garden, and some were in the open water of the Hudson River.  One of
the submarines ran on just the received radio energy alone; it had no internal batteries at all.  See the Tesla biography "Man Out Of Time" for details and photos.

************************
* These are my opinions only.*
************************
Organization: University of Maine System
Date: Wednesday, 2 Sep 1992 12:28:37 EDT
From: <IO10046@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: 1/12 or 1/10 electric on-road cars
 <92244.124441IO10046@MAINE.MAINE.EDU> <1992Sep1.084353.18250@hsr.no>

In article <1992Sep1.084353.18250@hsr.no>, paal-sb@hsr.no (Paal Steinar Berg)
says:
>
>In article <92244.124441IO10046@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>, <IO10046@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>
>writes:
>
>>
>>    WHEN YOU TALK OF ON-ROAD ELECTRIC CARS, I'M ASSUMING YOU ARE SPEAKING
>> OF PAN CARS.  PAN CARS ARE NOT THE IDEAL RECREATIONAL RC CAR.  AN OFF-
>> ROAD CAR MAY SUIT YOU BETTER.   THERE ARE FULL SUSPENSION ON ROADS CARS
>> OUT THERE, BUT THEY ARE EXPENSIVE AND ARE NOT COMPETIVE WITH PAN CARS
>> ON SMOOTH TRACKS BECAUSE OF THERE WEIGHT DIFFERENCE.
>
>How much does the pan cars weigh? The Serpent Tenforce weighs 1200 grams if I
>remenber right. And that is with an aluminium chassis. What is the minimum
>weight
>for an 1/ 10 scale on-road car?

  The minumum weight where I race is 2 pounds 10 ounces.  I'm not sure
if that is ROAR rules or just this tracks.  This weight is the actual race
weight... Not just the weight of the chassis.  How many pounds are in
1200 grams anyway?
>
>
>>    MAYBE YOUR BEST BET WOULD BE TO TAKE A LOOK AT SOMETHING ALONG ...
>>
     <<<stuff deleted>>>

>> -AARON BRASSLETT
>>  UNIVERSITY OF MAINE
>
>WHOW, WHY HAVE YOU GOT SO BIG LETTERS GRANDMA?
>
>Paal            (Gasheads unite)
    I guess I was just feeling big that day.
 Aaron
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: petera@bcars432.UUCP (Peter Ashwood-Smith)
Subject: Re: Covering scale RC models
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Ottawa, Canada
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 12:50:02 GMT

In article <1992Aug26.202714.13397@analogy.com>, glenng@analogy.com (Glenn Graham) writes:
|> 'm new to this group so I hope this hasn't been beaten to death
|> before but... I am finally moving out of my appartment and into
|> a house where I will have enough space to begin constructing RC
|> aircraft. I haven't been involved in balsa/RC modeling since hi-
|> school and even then they were static since radio gear was way
|> beyond my budget then. I have since been restricted to scale
|> plastic. But now I can pick up where I left off and I can now
|> afford to do it for real! What I am looking for is input on covering
|> techniques for scale aircraft. My eventual goal will be to attempt
|> one of the Proctor scale kits (as you can tell Scale is my primary
|> interest in modeling). I plan on working up to it over several kits
|> (and several years) learning to fly along the way. I have covered
|> planes with monocote (many years ago) but never was really happy
|> with the way seams turned out (dirt and dust would always make them
|> visible) and the "plastic-y" look they had. I am sure there are new
|> techniques out there as well as new products. 

  Glen, there are a number of good shrink fabric covering materials available now. My current favorite is the new 21st Centuary Fabric, it is prepainted, goes on like monokote but is tougher and can be used on itself with no bubbles. It also can be painted without a primer coat... 

  Peter
From: bs464@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Duncan R. McCoy)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Hobby Shack Birdie 40
Date: 4 Sep 1992 18:19:41 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: bs464@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Duncan R. McCoy)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


My wife bought me a Hobby Shack Birdie 40 for Father's Day and,
after a very hot summer in Southern Nevada, I'm finally getting
it together.

It looks like it'll be a pretty nice airplane, nice lines, semi
semmetrical airfoil, long moments should make for a smooth flyer.
It'll be powered with a Magnum Pro .45. The plane is ready to
cover now and I have a few comments.

It would be nice if Hobby Shack would supply the kit with plans
printed on only one side of the sheet. As supplied, the fuse views
are on one side and wing and stab are on the other. Balsa supplied
tended to the hard side but not as hard as some of the Hobby
Dynamics kits and was workable. ***ALL SPAR STOCK WAS ARROW-STRAIGHT!
Plywood supplied for formers, firewall and engine mount was not very
good quality wood. Die cutting of balsa parts was excellent.

Construction is essentially conventional with no major problems
encountered, instructions were easy to follow but somewhat lacking
in the kind of step-by-step illustrations we enjoy in Goldberg
and Sig kits.

The wing root is but joined then covered with 1/8" ply on both
sides. Plans do not call for glassing the wing root and with the
ply going across, it seems plenty strong. I think I'll try it 
without glass and see how it holds together.

If this plane flies as good as it builds, then for $50 it's really
a bargain. Hobby Shack just sent around a flyer with a special
price on this plane for September of $45.

This will be the first Birdie .40 to be seen at our field. I expect
with the new price, we'll see some more.

Anybody in Netland have any experience with this plane? Let us all
know whether it's any good or not.

-- 
Duncan R. McCoy
Boulder City, NV
bs464@cleveland.freenet.edu
---------------------------
From: pfoss@cmsa.gmr.com (Pete Foss PO/46)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Information Wanted on Very Miniature RC Planes, Cars and Boats
Date: 4 Sep 92 10:26:02 GMT
Reply-To: pfoss@cmsa.gmr.com
Organization: .................


The smallest RC airplane I have seen in a "Poolboy".  Its a bi-plane floatplane
with about a 12 inch wingspan.  It was flown with a Cannon radio and a 0.01 engine
(Cox I think).  It has been flown a few times at our club float flys.
From: svoboda@rtsg.mot.com (David Svoboda)
Subject: Re: Boats and float planes
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 20:48:50 GMT

In article <1992Aug24.234034.13682@iex.uucp> Mike McKinney writes:
|In article <WEWALLAC.92Aug21143456@watsol.uwaterloo.ca>
|wewallac@watsol.uwaterloo.ca (Bill Wallace) writes:
|>How do people usually recove their float planes.  Obviously if the engine
|>is still running one just taxis it in, but otherwise?  Does anyone have
|>a nice design of an rc retreiver boat?  If one had a barge type boat that had
|a
|>rod crosswise in the front to pust the float plane that might work?
|
|	At the one float fly I have attended, there was a full scale boat to retrieve
|dunked airplanes.  Good thing too!
|
|
|>What happens to the engine when one flips the plane on landing?  Does the
|>temperature difference destroy the engine?  
|
|	While this may cause problems at times, dunking my OS46 did not hurt it.  I
|just took it home and cleaned it out.  The bigger problem is with the radio
|equipment.  It must be opened up and dried out quickly.  When possible,
|receivers should be in a water proof bag so dunking won't hurt it.

Just an extra tip, here.  For any power plane, you should wrap both the 
battery and the receiver in plastic baggies, and twist-tie and/or tape
the end securely.  Fuel gets into airplanes, and if you ever have to
solder anything, it makes the task MUCH easier if there is little or no
oil.  Also, oil can make all the labels come off of a receiver, and no
telling what it can do to the electronics.

Cut a separate hole in the receiver bag for the antenna to come out of;
you don't want to put it right next to the servo wires.  Tape over this
to seal it.

For floatplanes I like to use several layers of baggie around the receiver
and battery pack, and some heavy grease around the servo output shaft to
try and seal that.

		Dave Svoboda, Palatine, IL
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: ron@etch-eshop.Berkeley.EDU (Ronald Viegelahn)
Subject: Sig Kadet for sale
Reply-To: ron@etch-eshop.Berkeley.EDU (Ronald Viegelahn)
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
Distribution: ca
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 22:04:35 GMT

 
 
   I have a Radio controlled airplane that I would like to sell.
 It's a SIG KADET, trainer type aiplane. Has about a 5 ft wing 
 span, has been built for 4 channel system... ie rudder,elevator,
 airlerons and throttle.
  Takes a .35 engine,mounts are drilled for a O.S. Max .35. This
 is a good flying plane. I learned to fly with this plane and now
 I'm building something else. It has never been crashed!!
 
  It's yellow with red trim. Please note that this ad is just for
 the airplane alone, does not enclude engine and radio gear. I'm
 keeping those things for future use. asking $100.00
 
 
 
 
                                   ron@etcheshop.Berkeley.EDU

                                   (510)642-4971 W
                                   (707)557-5671 H
 
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: paulm@storcon (Paul Moreau)
Subject: Re: R/C Flying: Part 1 of 2/rec.models.rc FAQ
Organization: Storage Concepts, Inc.
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 14:09:40 GMT


In article <5919.2a9ce40e@hayes.com>, bcoleman@hayes.com (Bill Coleman) writes:
|> In article <1992Aug24.194203.25944@rtsg.mot.com>, svoboda@rtsg.mot.com (David Svoboda) writes:
|> > 
|> > For instance, the Flightstar 40 is the most 
|> > popular ARF trainer in my area, and that airplane has a landing gear 
|> > which is completely insufficient to handle the hard landings of 
|> > training.  Now, not to say that the problem doesn't have a simple
|> > fix, but not having built the airplane themselves, the student is
|> > often overwhelmed by a simple solder job, and I have not had a
|> > *single* student *ever* take my suggestion to replace the darn thing
|> > with regular piano wire.  
|> 
|> I'm a student (well I guess not any more. I've been flying solo since
|> mid-May). I have a Flightstar 40. I'm kinda tired of the fragile landing
|> gear. I have replaced the nose gear arm with a longer nose gear, but it
|> also has bent rearward.
|> 
|> I'm not afraid of working on my plane. I've already made a number of small
|> modifications.
|> 
|> About this landing gear problem -- how do you suggest I improve the landing 
|> gear on the Flightstar?
  
   I've seen several of these types of planes converted to tail draggers.  This
   is a more rugged setup (No nose gear to bend) and also gets you started in
   tail draging take offs and landings.
   To convert, the rear main gear must be moved forward perferably just forward
   of the leading edge of the wing.   Then get just about any tail wheel assembly
   from a hobbie store of in our case dig one off some carcass that some one has
   'lawn darted'.   I fly at Mile Square park in Fountain Valley CA. and at least
   2 to 4 planes a day find thier way to one of the many trash cans there :^).

-- 
          _____________________________________________________________
          -                *                      _______   _~;       -
          -            Paul Moreau               |       =_= /        -
          -    Sr. Diagnostics Software Eng.     \   USA    /         -
          -         Irvine, California      --->  *-_  ___ /          -
          -     UUCP: ..!uunet!storcon!paulm         \/   \\          -
          _____________________________________________________________
From: minnich@gn.ecn.purdue.edu (Randolph J. Minnich)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: instructors
Keywords: paying for it
Date: 31 Aug 92 02:54:05 GMT
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network

In article <1992Aug30.035812.381@bohra.cpg.oz.au> jrp@bohra.cpg.oz.au (John Pitman) writes:
>All in all, if you cant find somebody to teach you for nothing, there is
>something wrong with the hobby.
>jp

Here is nothing wrong with this hobby.  I am a member of the Greater Cincinnati
Radio Control Club (GCRCC).  We offer free training to anyone who joins.  This
is actually a precautionary measure since our field is rather tricky with all
the trees.  

Free instruction is out there, but it may take some time and effort to find it.

Good luck,
-- 
      _/_/_/_/_/   _/_/   _/       _/ _/_/_/_/   _/         _/
     _/      _/ _/    _/ _/       _/ _/      _/    
    _/      _/ _/    _/ _/ _/    _/ _/      _/    _/    _/
   _/_/_/_/_/ _/_/_/_/ _/       _/ _/      _/  
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: bobwo@ecs.comm.mot.com (Bob Woodhouse)
Subject: Tire Gluing Technique
Organization: secure_comm
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 13:16:57 GMT

Hello,

I race a 1/10 scale electric off-road car.  I have been gluing tires to
the rims with Loctite416, a CA glue.  Often, after a few races, some
chunks of the glue will be attached to the rubber tire and some chunks
will be attached to the plactic rim, but there will be cracks in the glue
all the way around such that you could probably peel the tire off the rim.
This happens on my front and rear tires, and the rims and tires are initially
free of dirt and grime since I glue them right after purchasing them.  I
wish to know if this is a typical experience or if there are glues or secret 
techniques that may be used to better hold a tire in place.  I have never had
a tire with cracked glue to separate from the rim, nor have I had dirt infiltration
problems.  I have tried adding more glue to cracked glue with occasional success.
My method for gluing is to put a few drops between tire and rim and then to
run a continuous bead of glue around the meeting of tire and rim.  It is this
visible bead of glue that cracks;  the few drops that are out of sight between
the tire and rim seem to be the main thing left holding the tire on.

Good day,
Bob Woodhouse
From: paal-sb@hsr.no (Paal Steinar Berg)
Subject: re: Tire Gluing
Organization: Rogaland University Centre
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 08:52:17 GMT

We have a guy here who makes tire glueing macines! I'll try some ascii graphics:

			__
			||
			||
			||CRANK
			[====================]
				|         ||
				|         ||
		       	     PIN|         ||ROD
				|         ||
				|         ||
			      [][------][]||	
			      [][------][]||
			  TIRE[][--RIM-][]||
			      [][------][]||
			      [][------][]||
			--------------------------
			--------------------------BASEPLATE

GET IT?

Well i'll try to explain: First you put the tire on the rim(no glue). You then
isert the rim in the machine( You remove the crank and pin (one piece)).Then set
the crank back on and press the pin in between the rim and tire. Then you add
thin ca glue and wind the crank around while pulling it upwards. Then turn the
rim around and do the other side. Voila a pair glued in 30 secs.


Paal