HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: r.g.olsen@att.com (Ron Olsen)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Mounting Avocet on Manitou2
Date: 14 Oct 92 23:16:40 GMT
Reply-To: r.g.olsen@att.com
Organization: AT&T Bell Labs, Denver CO

I mounted an Avocet sensor on my Manitou fork using
a zip-tie and clear silicone adhesive.  
It is holding up well after several months.

	Ron Olsen
	Boulder, Colorado
	r.g.olsen@att.com
From: border@wilbur.nas.nasa.gov (Ryan A. Border)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Vitus with Aluminum Steerer Tube
Date: 7 Oct 92 22:15:27 GMT
Organization: NAS, NASA Ames Research Center, Moffett Field, CA

pamela@keps.kodak.com (Pamela Blalock) writes:
>I have a vitus fork with an aluminum steerer tube. The
>shop tells me that these are dangerous and...
>Now we are looking at $200 for a new fork.
		       ^^^^
Umm... unless this is some sort of suspension fork, that price is
ridiculous.  Shop around- see what different stores in your area 
have.  I've bought a new, chrome, Tange Prestige fork for ~$80, and
I found a perfectly good (Prestige) black one for $40 a few years back 
that was a take-off from a frame that had a mangled rear derailleur hanger.

Giant Cadex's come (came?) with a nice aluminum fork, and you can probably
get a replacement fork form them (if AL is what you want) for a *lot*
less than $200.  I think this fork is made by Sakae and I think I've seen
it advertised in the Rags. Since the bike is all apart anyway (otherwise 
you wouldn't have known about the steerer tube...) there shouldn't be any 
additional labor involved except for perhaps cutting the steerer tube (a 3min 
job for somebody who knows what they're doing).

>I can't tell if the shop is being straight with me or trying to get me 
>to shell out more money that I may not need to. 

I think you should replace the fork- not a component you can afford to
have fail.  I also think the shop is trying to get you to shell out a
lot more money than necessary.

>pamela
_______________________________________________________________________________
* Ryan A. Border               border@nas.nasa.gov,   border@craywr.cray.com  *
* Cray Research Inc., On Site Applications Analyst 415-604-4633  o__ o__      *
* Numerical Aerodynamic Simulator, NASA Ames Research Center    _.>/-.>/'_    *
* Never trust someone who can count to 1023 on their fingers.  ( ) \---\(*)...*
==============================================================================*
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: seligman@CS.Stanford.EDU (Scott Seligman)
Subject: Re: helmet mounted lights?
Organization: Stanford University
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 00:19:48 GMT

In article <1b2enfINNitm@buster.cs.ubc.ca> sjang@cs.ubc.ca (Stanley Jang) writes:
> The nicad battery pack
> that I built for it can be put in a jersey pocket, in one's
> cycling shorts, or 
  ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

I guess you don't sweat too much.  (Shudder!)


Scott Seligman

Internet:  seligman@CS.Stanford.EDU
UUCP:      {uunet,decwrl,sun}!cs.stanford.edu!seligman
Packet:    kc6ock @ n0ary.#nocal.ca.usa.na
From: michaelk@netcom.com (Michael Kronstadt)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Avocet 50 altimeter stops working
Date: 13 Oct 92 20:15:20 GMT
Article-I.D.: netcom.1992Oct13.201520.26953
Organization: Abbott Critical Care Systems, Mountain View CA

In article <9996@pyrdc.UUCP> mike@pyrdc.UUCP (Mike Whitman) writes:
>I have a Avocet 50 computer on my road bike that started to flake out yesterday
>during a training ride. It showes that we did over 5000 ft of climbing in 40
>miles.

Happened to me last month--solved by a new battery.  (All other
functions, and the display, were still in good order.)
-- 
Michael Kronstadt         michaelk@netcom.com                       __o
Abbott Critical Care Systems       ____    "Ride the bike,        _`\<,_
Mountain View, CA                  \  /      ride the bike,      (*)/ (*)
(my opinions, not Abbott's)         \/        ride the bike." -- Fausto Coppi
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: jss5@ellis.uchicago.edu (jeffrey s sweeney)
Subject: Mail-order tools
Reply-To: jss5@midway.uchicago.edu
Organization: University of Chicago Computing Organizations
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 23:03:57 GMT

The phone number I have for The Third Hand ( 916-262-2600 ) doesn't
seem to work.  Does anyone have the correct number?

Are there other recommendations for mail-order tool houses?

-- 

Jeff Sweeney			Dept. Geophysical Sciences, U. Chicago
(312) 702-0466			sweeney@dionheinz.uchicago.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: shenry@cs.rice.edu (Sam Henry)
Subject: Re: Advice on chains..
Organization: Rice University, Houston
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 19:23:49 GMT

In article <1b4r3bINNh7@overload.lbl.gov> chris@carnival.lbl.gov
(Chris Moll) re-greases: 

>Sam Henry writes:
>>An easy way to amplify the sound of any grinding (and thus catch the
>>problems sooner):  place your ear on the nose of the saddle.
>
>There's side benfit: when I do this, my riding companions always seem
>to give me a lot of room.

And I thought it was because I quit shaving my legs for improved
aerodynamics! 

>>All the the grinding noise will travel through the tubes and the
>>saddle will act as a sounding board.
>
>If your bike makes as many different noises as mine typically do, you'll
>hear such a cocaphany of clicks, squeaks and groans that you'll never
>figure out which part it is.  ...

Then you obviously regrease your bearing before they need it.  If
you're bearings **really** needed regreasing, you'd hear them above
anything else.

-- 
sam henry <shenry@rice.edu>
Wanna ride?
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: iba@kronos.arc.nasa.gov (Wayne Iba)
Subject: Re: freewheel vices
Organization: NASA/ARC Information Sciences Division
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 18:34:10 GMT

bgeer@javelin.sim.es.com (Bob Geer) writes:

>ehouse@Apple.COM (Eric House) writes:
>>Our Workmate isn't strong enough as a vice to hold a freewheel vice firmly
>>enough to resist the force needed to unscrew that cog.

>All the SunTour 6-spd freewheels I used prior to this year I was able
>to remove with the remover tool....

I think you are confusing "removing a freewheel from a wheel" and
"removing the cogs from a freewheel".

--wayne
From: harold@cs.uq.oz.au (Andrew Wood)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Advice on chains..
Date: 8 Oct 92 00:31:42 GMT
Reply-To: harold@cs.uq.oz.au

In <BvpHK4.8F0@rice.edu> shenry@cs.rice.edu (Sam Henry) writes:

>>pedals. Listen/Feel for any grinding of bearings. If you detect some
>>grinding, its probably time to repack the bearings. Do the same

>An easy way to amplify the sound of any grinding (and thus catch the
>problems sooner):  place your ear on the nose of the saddle.
>All the the grinding noise will travel through the tubes and the
>saddle will act as a sounding board.

You ride on a wooden saddle??????                                 :-)

>sam henry <shenry@rice.edu>
>Wanna ride?
Sure, but not on _your_ saddle!

Andrew
--
  __0    _-_|\      harold@cs.uq.oz.au is: Andrew Wood
 -\<,   /     * <-- Comp Sci Dept, U. of QLD, Brisbane 
0/  0   \_.-._/     
             v      "This is a job for 'The Australian'"    Delicatessen.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: goell@nomad.jpl.nasa.gov (Jeremy Goell)
Subject: Re: Vitus with Aluminum Steerer Tube
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory, NASA/Caltech
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 23:51:16 GMT

In article <1992Oct7.221527.17281@nas.nasa.gov>, border@wilbur.nas.nasa.gov (Ryan A. Border) writes:
|> pamela@keps.kodak.com (Pamela Blalock) writes:
|> >I have a vitus fork with an aluminum steerer tube. The
|> >shop tells me that these are dangerous and...
|> >Now we are looking at $200 for a new fork.
|> 		       ^^^^
|> Umm... unless this is some sort of suspension fork, that price is
|> ridiculous.
...  
|> Giant Cadex's come (came?) with a nice aluminum fork, and you can probably
|> get a replacement fork form them (if AL is what you want) for a *lot*
|> less than $200.  I think this fork is made by Sakae and I think I've seen
|> it advertised in the Rags. 
.. 
|> I think you should replace the fork- not a component you can afford to
|> have fail.  I also think the shop is trying to get you to shell out a
|> lot more money than necessary.
|> 
|> >pamela
|> _______________________________________________________________________________
|> * Ryan A. Border               border@nas.nasa.gov,   border@craywr.cray.com  *
|> * Cray Research Inc., On Site Applications Analyst 415-604-4633  o__ o__      *
|> * Numerical Aerodynamic Simulator, NASA Ames Research Center    _.>/-.>/'_    *
|> * Never trust someone who can count to 1023 on their fingers.  ( ) \---\(*)...*
|> ==============================================================================*

I agree w/ Ryan completely.  $200 is WAY too much for a fork.  Scout around
for an SR/Sakae Prism fork.  They're pretty good, and they ain't no $200....

Michael Batchelder
mpb@nomad.jpl.nasa.gov
From: brianh@hp-16.cae.wisc.EDU (Brian Huilman)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Please disregard one of these posts...
Date: 8 Oct 92 18:22:00 GMT
Article-I.D.: doug.1992Oct8.132201.12182
Distribution: usa
Organization: College of Engineering, Univ. of Wisconsin-Madison
Originator: brianh@hp-16.cae.wisc.edu


Our system glitched when I was sending the first one and I didn't think it had
been posted.

Sorry.

Brian Huilman           University of Wisconsin - Madison
                        Department of Electrical/Computer Engineering
"Avoid the Bonk"        brianh@cae.wisc.edu
             _   __o
           ___  `\<,    "Speed is the reward for hard training."
             -  O/ O
From: casseres@apple.com (David Casseres)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: quality headsets
Date: 13 Oct 92 22:14:45 GMT
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech
Organization: Apple Computer, Inc.

In article <Bw0Mzw.B4p@apollo.hp.com>, mj@apollo.hp.com (Mark A. Johnson)
wrote:
> 
> 
>   I am going broke replacing headsets on my road and mountain bikes.  My
> Basso eats up Ultegra headsets every 3k miles, my Bridgestone MTB 
> has gone through 2 Ritchy Comp headsets in less than 500 miles (75% off road),
> and my beater Bianchi w/Shimano 105 (for crit racing and riding in rain) is 
> starting to index at less than 1500 miles.  I have tried loose packing to get 
> some extra miles, but even that does not help much.  It is hard to believe with 
> all the recent advances in components, that headsets are still subject to such 
> a high failure rate.

I've had similar experiences with several different Shimano headsets, then
switched to a Specialized which is going strong at around 4000 mi.  On my
other bike I have a Mavic headset which is also just fine after almost 4000
mi.  I think one thing that makes a headset last longer is keeping it
really nicely adjusted, which is super-easy with the Mavic.

--

David Casseres
Exclaimer: Wow!
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: acw4@quads.uchicago.edu ("The Wan-ster")
Subject: Dealing with rust
Reply-To: acw4@midway.uchicago.edu
Organization: University of Chicago Computing Organizations
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 04:10:38 GMT

Readers:

I just bought myself a vintage Schwinn bike that is in sore need
of repair.  My question is...Is there some way to remove
rust on old metal without damaging the original metal and without
exacting tremendous cost?  
	Also, I've been interested in finding out how to patch
old tires. One of the tires are cracked all along the rim and
sags.  Time to get a new one?

Please email your responses.
Thanks.

-- 
  /\ /\//\//~  
 /~~\     /~  acw4@midway.uchicago.edu 
          ~~  
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: paynter@bnr.ca (Stuart Paynter)
Subject: Re: I need advice with my MTB brake cables...
Reply-To: paynter@bnr.ca (Stuart Paynter)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 92 12:43:38 GMT

The Shimano special tools are like "Third Hand" tools.  Without
a picture it's a little difficult to explain but I'll give it
my best shot.  They are plastic devices that hold the cantilevers
at a specific distance from the rim.  The different colour tools
are different distances.  With the cantilevers held in place, 
the adjustment can be made to the cable.  Centering is then done
by adjusting the tiny set screw in one ofe the cantilevers.  I 
do not own these tools but have watched the guys at the local shop
use them.  They seem to speed up the process considerably.  I, on
the other hand ust the Park Third Hand brake tool which works just
fine for me.

Cheers ... Stuart
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: crwg2707@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (R. Wagner)
Subject: Re: Mounting Avocet on Manitou2
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 17:14:00 GMT

I used RTV silicone to glue my sensor to my Manitou's (last years model, alas).
I just lined it up with the wheel ring and stuck it on.  You have to let it set
for about 12 hours before it's ready for a good thrashing.  The first time I 
did it it held for about 6 months.  I just did it again about a month ago.  It
might last longer if you don't have to keep pulling your front wheel like I do.
You'll know it's time to re-glue when you put the front wheel on and the sensor
falls off.  Actually, I noticed that my sensor quit sensoring and found that
this was because the sensor was pointing sideways.  Good luck.


Ride on, 
Raydude.

"Ray, a man unburdened by the rigors of coherent thought." 
          -a Brannonism quoted by George Heinz

"And the worms ate into his brain." -PF The Wall
From: jwgst2+@pitt.edu (James W Gourgoutis)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: I need advice with my MTB brake cables...
Date: 9 Oct 92 16:08:37 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Pittsburgh


	Dear Rec.Bicycles: 

	I have a question concerning the brake cable on my MTB.  I have a GT
Talera frame with front cantis and a rear U-brake.  The front canti has a 
peculiar cable setup:  instead of having a normal straddle cable and then a 
normal regular cable, the straddle cable is in two parts.  Half of the cable is
made up of a short piece of cable, while the rest is comprised of the regular 
cable.  I'll try to illustrate:

				 | 
       this side is	  -----> |
	all one piece		 |
				/ \
			  --->/     \<-------this is a separate piece  
       	                    /         \

 	I seem to see this setup on the lower-end MTB's, and I was wondering why?  It seems that the regular one piece straddle cable is easier to adjust, sinceit makes centering the brakes a lot easier.  With the setup on my bike, I constantly have to make sure that the two halves of the "Y" are the same length.
	What is the reason behind this?  It's probably something stupid like 
"this is cheaper to make".  I'm thinking of converting to the solid straddle 
cable.  Please advise!

                                                        
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
James Gourgoutis       				   
Mechanical Engineering                                O   
University of Pittsburgh                           _ /__,     
e-mail me at:  JWGST2@unixd.cis.pitt.edu          (_) /(_) 
	       or JWGST2@vms.cis.pitt.edu
Thanks!                                     "A bonafide BIKAHOLIC, and DAMN
                                             proud of it!"    
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-       
-- 
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: mj@apollo.hp.com (Mark A. Johnson)
Subject: quality headsets
Originator: mj@peloton
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 15:57:32 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Apollo Division - Chelmsford, MA

  I am going broke replacing headsets on my road and mountain bikes.  My
Basso eats up Ultegra headsets every 3k miles, my Bridgestone MTB 
has gone through 2 Ritchy Comp headsets in less than 500 miles (75% off road),
and my beater Bianchi w/Shimano 105 (for crit racing and riding in rain) is 
starting to index at less than 1500 miles.  I have tried loose packing to get 
some extra miles, but even that does not help much.  It is hard to believe with 
all the recent advances in components, that headsets are still subject to such 
a high failure rate.  

  Are all headsets with ball bearings junk. Should I try Campy or Mavic?
What headsets use roller bearings and how come they are not in common
use?  Do any have the low stack height to replace Shimano headsets?  

                                         Mark Johnson

    


Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: CMSC28@maccvm.corp.mot.com (Mark Hickey)
Subject: Re: 4 Re: Since we are talking about pro equip
Organization: Motorola
Date: 9 Oct 1992 07:38:09 CDT

------------------------- Original Article -------------------------
>|> -Harry Phinney wrote-
>|> >
>|> > 20 mph is about the average speed of most people.
>|>
>|> Ah, nothing like science.  What is this "average speed," please?  Avraged
>|> over all rides?  Races?  Training rides?  Commuting?  Grocery runs?
>|>
>|> And who are "most people"?  All cyclists?  Kids too?  Just racers?
>|> Commuters?  Just people with aero clipons?

>My club offers 4 classes of rides:
>A: animal
>B: brisk
>C: casual
>D: deliberate

>I think D is around 10 mph.  C seems to be about 12 mph. B rides run
>14 - 15 mph, and A rides are around 18 mph.  I'm well aware that I
>don't ride with the fastest club in the area, but we're a lot faster
>than the people who ride twice a year.  I would put the average club
>rider (not racer) at 14-15 mph, not 20.

>--David Wittenberg

Harry is no doubt talking about riders who are more interested in
breaking the speed limit than seeing the scenery, two very different
types of riders.  The club I rode with in New Jersey was primarily
a racing oriented club, and offered an A and B ride (sometimes a
C ride also).  The B ride would average about 20-21 MPH for 40-70
miles, and the A ride might be more like 23-24 MPH for 60-80 miles.
Sometimes the average speed would suffer due to a loose, interval-
style ride (lots of sprinting to street signs, etc.), but the
effort level would remain the same.

So, basically... you're both right.  Few of the cyclists that
David rides with would normally ride 20 MPH, while the riders that
Harry rides with would probably average well over the 20MPH mark
on most rides.

(Assumptions: A-Stops not included in time, B-Relatively
flat terrain, C-I realize there are racers out there incapable of
averaging over 20MPH)

Mark (on your left... was that a cow?) Hickey
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: hwk@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (henry.w.krautter)
Subject: Re: Wanted - Comments on Bullseye Pulleys
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 20:06:36 GMT
Summary: Shimano pulleys

In article <RFLOYD.92Oct14124829@romeo.cs.duke.edu>, rfloyd@cs.duke.edu (Rick Floyd) writes:
> I use one as a tension pulley on my Dura-Ace derailleur with no
> problems (other than the color clash). It feels smoother than the
> original.  I wouldn't recommend using one as a guide pulley, though.
> It doesn't have comparable side-to-side play.  I'm told that SIS
> drivetrains will still shift with it, but they're pretty noisy.
> 
> What is it with the rubber seals on Shimano pulleys? I found one bad on
> *both* pulleys last time I overhauled my derailleur. This is more than a
> little inconvenient when you consider how hard it is to get Shimano parts.
> 
> 	rick floyd
> 	rfloyd@cs.duke.edu

Yes! What is it with the rubber seals on Shimano pulleys. My Trek  2300 was
about 5 weeks old when I was cleaning the chain and noticed three of the
rubber seals on the rear derailleur were off. They had expanded from being
spun around so I couldn't put them back. My dealer Marty's Reliable, in 
Morristown, NJ (the service there really sucks, business there is so good I
don't think they care at all,  I purchased 2 bikes there and neither one had
reflectors which I was told is illegal, their prices are good, but I've 
learned my lesson). So anyway the dealer said it's too hard to get in touch
with Shimano and has told me to buy Bullseye pulleys, I assume he will give
me a price break but I had technicians at Performance and Colorado Cycling
tell me they wouldn't recommend using Bullyeye pulleys with my type of rear
derailleur. The small parts store in Oregon that advertises in the back of
Bicycling magazine gets about $14 for the top pulley and about $5 for the
lower for that much money you might do better to buy a new derailleur, only
problem is it will probably be the rubber seals on the pulleys that go first.
Henry
From: x3420abo@maple.circa.ufl.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: LATEX TUBES
Date: 15 Oct 92 17:45:58 GMT
Reply-To: x3420abo@maple.circa.ufl.edu
Organization: University of Florida - CIRCA

1:  DONT' BY SPECIALIZED   
	-TWO BLOWOUTS, RIM-SIDE, IN ONE RACE.  NEED I SAY MORE?

2:  BUY TUBES WITH A BUTYL LINING
	-THEY HOLD PRESSURE BETTER
	-THEY'RE MORE ELASTIC (MORE SUPPLE TIRE = BETTER CONTACT PATCH =
       BETTER CORNERING AT FASTER SPEEDS (i.e. you'll win))
	-COOL RED COLOR (INDICATED BUTYL LINING.  SPECIALIZED ARE 
       CONDOM COLORED.. BORING)
From: gcarter!gcarter (George Carter)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Triple chainrings on road bikes
Keywords: triple chainring
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 92 20:06:09 PDT
Distribution: world
Organization: SFBAC

I am also a road bike triple chainring afficionado; in my case of the 
half-step plus granny variety.  Here are some random comments on 
several of the topics in this thread:

1.  The condescending attitude of some hard-core racers toward
    triples has disappeared by the fourth and fifth passes of 
    the Death Ride.

2.  Triples work fine on short chainstay bikes but the chainline
    adjustment is more critical and there is a bit more fine tuning
    of the front after some rear shifts than with a longer 
    chainstay.  Makes sense since the chain is at a greater 
    angle (and therefore sticks out more toward the front cage)
    with a shorter chainstay.

3.  A few months ago I got a useful pointer from this newgroup
    about the Shimino half-step derailleur.  I bought one and 
    installed it but unfortunately it seems that Shimino has
    missed the point.  The width of the inside cage of this 
    product was too wide for even my 6 tooth difference
    (I use 52-46-26, 12-28).  I would expect a half-step
    derailleur to handle even 4 tooth differences like 52-48.
    My advise to half-step people is that ordinary alpine
    XT or DX derailleurs work just as well for half-step as
    Shimino's half-step product.  Unless there is another 
    half-step derailleur that I don't know about it appears
    this product, very common a decade ago, no longer is manufactured.
From: fike@chezp.enet.dec.com 
Subject: Re: Velo News Suspension Review
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 14:26:44 GMT


In article <1992Oct12.151550.16770@westminster.ac.uk>, marcus@westminster.ac.uk
 (Marcus Harvey) writes...
>And does everyone have to ignore the excellent (v. stiff) Pace Engineering
>RC-35 elastomer fork (which uses carbon fibre legs for a near Rock Shox weight
>of 3lb 2oz) just because it's British?
> 
>Marcus Harvey, University of Westminster IRS
>JANET: marcus@uk.ac.westminster
>INTERNET: marcus%westminster.ac.uk@ukacrl
> 

	No.... it's ignored because they don't advertise it heavily enough
(I read most biking/MTB mags every month and I've never even HEARD of it, much
less seen any competent product comparison discussing it). Getting just a bit
paranoid are we? ;^) 
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech