From: roche@cs.rochester.edu (James Roche)
Subject: Frequently Asked rec.woodworking questions (last updated 9/15/92)
Frequency: monthly
Organization: Computer Science Department University of Rochester
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 12:30:34 GMT
Expires: 5 Nov 92


I have been reading and archiving rec.woodworking since its inception
as net.rec.wood back in 1984. Below are some of the topics that seem to
come up frequently.

If you have any constructive comments please let me know. If there is
something you would like to see added please pass it on to me.

TABLE OF CONTENTS:
	1). Should I buy a table saw or a radial arm saw?
	2). Which type of dado blade should I buy, the dial (wobble type) or
		the stacking (chipper type)?
	3). How do I cut the perfect dado if both types of dado blades have
		shortcomings?
	4). Should I buy a Sears blurfl?
	5). Should I buy a Taiwanese clone blurfl?
	6). How do I remove paint?
	7). Should I use a hot melt glue gun for my next project?
	8). Where can I get plans for the New Yankee Workshop projects?
	9). What is the best woodworking magazine?
	10). What is a board foot?
	11). What is the correct way to handle the glue squeeze out problem?
	12). What books should I purchase to learn about various aspects of
		woodworking?
	13). How do I finish toys so that they are non-toxic?
	14). What size drill bit do I use for a wood screw?
	15). How do I finish the edge of plywood?
	16). Which saw blade should I buy


1). Should I buy a table saw or a radial arm saw?

	Table saws work best for ripping. Radial arm saws work best for
	crosscutting, but are limited by their arm's length. Both 
	saws will perform both tasks. The radial arm is more adaptable for 
	non-sawing tasks. For instance, overhead routing, surface planing, and 
	drum sanding attachments are available for some radial arm saws. You
	can buy a disk sanding attachment for use on most table saws.

	Ripping on the radial arm saw is difficult because it is necessary
	to push the lumber under the motor housing.  This problem can be
	minimized by use of pushsticks and holddown wheels. Maximum rip width
	is normally limited by the length of the arm. Building a secondary rip
	fence on the other side of the table from the column will enable you to
	rip wider pieces, but the off-cut piece width is then limited. Radial
	arm saws are more prone to overheating during rips in thick wood since
	the teeth stay in the cut longer, unless you cut substantially into
	the table top and even then there is no place for the sawdust to exit.

	Crosscutting on the table saw is difficult because it is tough to
	keep a board much longer than 4 ft square to the blade.  This
	problem can be minimized by building a good sliding panel cutter. Some
	table saws have built-in sliding tables, and aftermarket sliding table
	attachments are available for most saws. A couple of saws have sliding
	arbors, enabling them to work as inverted radial arm saws. The arbors
	typically don't slide as far as the length of many radial arms (for a
	review of 2 of these saws, see the April 1992 issue of FWW).

	Both saws are capable of accurate work. The radial arm saw, with its
	cantilevered arm attached to a cantilevered column, is typically less
	rigid than the table saw, which usually have their arbor trunions 
	bolted to the table in a wide pattern. Worn arm bearing in radial arm 
	saws can also contribute to wander in the cut. In table saws, play of
	the miter gauge bar will adversely affect accuracy.

	Both table saws and radial arm saws need to be aligned to work
	optimally. There are more aligning tasks to be performed on a radial
	arm saw than on a table saw. Radial arm saws typically require
	realignment more frequently than table saw, perhaps because of the 
	stresses put on the cantilevered assemblies.

	Radial arm saws don't need as much space around them as table saws for
	performing equivalent tasks. On the radial arm saw, boards are always
	oriented the same way whether you are ripping or crosscutting, so you
	need space to the left and right of the	blade, and only as wide as the
	widest board you're cutting. On the table saws, boards are oriented at 
	right angles depending on whether you're ripping or crosscutting. Thus,
	you need space in front and in back for ripping, and to the left and 
	right as well for crosscutting.

	It seems to be easier to engineer and manufacture a table saw than a
	radial arm saw, which has more moving parts that must withstand large
	forces without deflection or play. It can therefore be argued that if
	you're on a budget, a cheap table saw may work better for you than a 
	cheap radial arm saw.

	Some people say the radial arm saw is more dangerous because the blade
	is exposed above the work surface, and because the blade's location
	varies as the cut progresses. Angled crosscutting is particularly
	dangerous since the blade is now cutting where one normally holds the
	work. The spin direction of the blade tends to lift the work off of
	the table when ripping, and can pull the carriage into the work
	(resulting in binding of the saw or serious injury to a careless
	operator) in the crosscut position. So-called "safety-blades" have
	a shoulder in front of each tooth, thus limiting the amount of pull
	generated and reducing these tendencies.

	Some people say the table saw is more dangerous because you can't 
	see where the blade is like you can with the radial arm saw. On the
	other hand, the blade is always in the same spot on the table. The
	spin action of the table saw's blade tends to keep the work down on
	the table, but it can also throw the work, and off-cuts, back at the
	operator.

	Both machines are very dangerous and should be treated with much
	respect.

	As with all tool buying decisions, you should consider your intended
	applications, both now and in the future. The general consensus is that
	if you're building things like jungle gyms, house additions, or trim
	work (moldings), a radial arm saw may be best. If you're building 
	things like fine furniture or cabinets, a table saw may be more a
	more appropriate choice.

	A number of people have reported that the addition of a motorized
	miter box to a table saw is a satisfying combination.

	Taunton Press publishes a softcover book titled "Fine Woodworking on
	The Small Workshop." It contains a number of articles on designing and
	buying equipment for small shops, but is geared to furnituremaking.
	The majority of the recommendations are for getting a table saw first,
	with one writer claiming a bandsaw is the first tool to buy.

2). Which type of dado blade should I buy, the dial (wobble type) or
the stacking (chipper type)?

	The wobble type is very simple to use with infinite settings
	between approximately 1/4 inch and 13/16 inch. It does not produce
	true right angle cuts because of the design. 

	The chipper type doesn't have the same infinite setting for width.
	You can achieve nearly infinite settings by adding shims with
	thicknesses of 1/32, 1/64, 1/128, etc.  It will cut a square bottom
	on the dado, but it will also leave 2 grooves on the edges of the
	dado. The reason for this is that the blades are slightly larger
	than the chippers.  The larger blades are to reduce the splintering.
	The blades can be reground to be equal to the size of the chippers
	at the possible cost of increased splintering. Some say the grooves
	are a benefit because they provide relief for gluing joints. 

	Many people claim that the wobble type is easier to set up.

	The August 1991 Fine Woodworking further studies the features of
	the various types of dado blades.

3). How do I cut the perfect dado if both types of dado blades have
shortcomings?

	Your best bet would be to cut it with a router.

4). Should I buy a Sears blurfl?

	Most people agree that the Sears stationary power tools sold today
	aren't the same quality as the Sears tools sold 20 years ago.  
	It can be argued that if you can't afford to buy a Delta, then
	you should be looking at one of the Taiwanese clones rather than
	looking at Sears.

5). Should I buy a Taiwanese clone blurfl?

	It depends on how much money you have. If you can afford the
	Delta blurfl you should probably get it. Buyers should be
	wary that not all Taiwanese clones are quality machines. The
	general consensus is that Grizzly has good quality control.

	It should be noted that some of Delta tools are now being made
	in Taiwan. One would hope that Delta quality control is better than
	some of the cheaper imports.


6). How do I remove paint?

	There are many ways to strip paint from wood.

	Paint can be removed by scraping and/or sanding.
	Paint can be removed by using chemical paint removers.
	Paint can be removed by using heat.
	Paint can be removed by sandblasting.
	Paint can be removed by a new product known as Peel-Away.
	Rumor has it that oven cleaner also works.

	If you know of another way to remove paint please feel free to pass
	the information along. 

7). Should I use a hot melt glue gun for my next project?

	The general consensus is that hot melt glue is not adequate
	for woodworking projects. However, hot melt glue guns can
	have a place in the shop. Many people like to use them for
	tacking items together such as when building forms or jigs.

8) Where can I get plans for the New Yankee Workshop projects?

	Plans for any of Norm's projects can be ordered for $7.50 from

        (project name)
        New Yankee Workshop
        P.O. Box 645
        Bedford, MA  01730

	Videos, which include a copy of the plans, cost $24.95 plus shipping
	and handling, from 800-272-0280.  Both the address and phone number
	are given at the end of each show.

	Most of the projects from the first two seasons are in the two
	New Yankee Workshop books.  For the workbench, one important
	dimension is *not* given in the book, though it can, I think,
	be calculated.

9) What is the best woodworking magazine?

	There are many good woodworking magazines. Two that are frequently
	recommended in this group are Fine Woodworking and Woodsmith.

	Fine Woodworking is a bit on the artsy side and more for the
	experienced woodworker. It does not get into the small details
	of a project.

	Woodsmith provides much more details for projects. Woodsmith is
	well suited for both the amateur and experienced woodworker.

10) What is a board foot?

	A board foot is a common unit used in the measurement of wood.
	It is equal to 1 foot length x 1 foot width x 1 inch thick.
	It should be noted that the thickness is nominal thickness.
	After drying and surfacing the usual thickness of a 1 inch
	board is 13/16.

	A board 10 feet long x 1 foot wide x 2 inches thick would be
	equal to 20 board feet.

11) What is the correct way to handle the glue squeeze out problem?

	Use the right amount of glue.  The (obvious) danger is a glue
	starved joint.

	 Wipe off the excess glue immediately with a damp sponge or paper
	towel.  This method gets mixed reviews.  Some claim the water-glue
	mixture will soak into the wood and show up when the piece is finished.
	Others say that this is not a problem.  The effectiveness of this
	method probably depends on the type of wood and finish that are used.

	Allow the glue to harden somewhat (1/2 - 2 hrs) and then
	chisel/scrape it off.  Some recommend removing the glue after it
	begins to film over.

	Either finish the pieces ahead of time or apply paste wax.  This
	should prevent the glue from sticking.  The problem with this is
	removing the paste wax prior to finishing.

	Use a plastic drinking straw cut at 45 degrees to scoop the glue
	out of the inside corner.  As the straw fills up, it can be trimmed to
	provide a fresh surface.

12) What books should I purchase to learn about various aspects of woodworking?

	GENERAL WOODWORKING
		Cabinetmaking and Millwork - John L. Feirer
		New Yankee Workshop - Norm Abram

	INTRODUCTORY WOODWORKING
		Basic Woodworking - Sunset Books

	JOINERY
		Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking: Joinery Tools and Techniques
				- Tage Frid
		Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking: Shaping, Veneering, Finishing
			        - Tage Frid

	TOOLS
		Router Jigs and Techniques - Patrick Spielman
		200 Original Shop Aids & Jigs for Woodworkers -Rosario Capotosto

	WOOD
		Understanding Wood - R. Bruce Hoadley

13) How do I finish toys so that they are non-toxic?

	a.  Behlens Salad Bowl Finish.  This product has been approved by
            the FDA for use on objects that will come in contact with
            food.  It produces a nice, semi-gloss finish.
	b.  Any vegetable oil. Could become rancid after a period of time.
	c.  Walnut oil.  It reacts with the air and hardens into a true
	    finish.  It works particularly well when the oil is heated
	    and the item is dipped into the warm oil. Available at health
	    food or large grocery stores.  Don't buy the gourmet stuff!
	d.  Mineral oil or vaseline.
	e.  Water-based polyurethanes.  These are new products which are
            very different from the more familiar oil-based
            polyurethanes.  They are totally non-toxic, dry quickly, and
            have no strong odors when applying.
	f.  Pure Tung Oil. It has no driers or solvents. It is essentially
	    just a vegetable oil but produces a nice finish that won't go
	    rancid. Use only Tung Oil that is "pure".
	g.  Rumor has it that shellac is also safe once it dries. I have
	    been unable to verify this.
	h.  Leave items unfinished.

14) What size drill bit do I use for a wood screw?

  Screw Gage    Shank    Shank     Pilot     Pilot
   Number        Hole    Size      Soft Wd   Hard Wd
       0         1/16    .060      1/64      1/32
       1         5/64    .073      1/32      1/32
       2         3/32    .086      1/32      3/64
       3         7/64    .099      3/64      1/16
       4         7/64    .112      3/64      1/16
       5         1/8     .125      1/16      5/64
       6         9/64    .138      1/16      5/64
       7         5/32    .151      1/16      3/32
       8         11/64   .164      5/64      3/32
       9         3/16    .177      5/64      7/64
      10         3/16    .190      3/32      7/64
      11         13/64             3/32      1/8
      12         7/32    .216      7/64      1/8
      14         1/4     .242      7/64      9/64
      16         17/64   .268      9/64      5/32
      18         19/64   .294      9/64      3/16
      20         21/64   .320      11/64     13/64

15) How do I finish the edge of plywood?
	a) Wood tape. It comes in 2 forms, one that can be ironed on, and
	   one that can be contact cemented on. The tape is approximately
	   1 inch wide, and can be trimmed with a plane, router, or knife.
	b) Glue strips of wood, either purchased or cut from lumber.

16). Which saw blade should I buy
	There is an excellent article on evaluating carbide tipped
	sawblades in issue #72 of Fine Homebuilding (March 1992).

	To summarize the article:

	An expensive blade will typically last longer than a cheap
	blade and the cost difference is made up by the number of
	extra sharpenings available from the investment.

	A blade that has been tensioned will run truer and cost more
	than a blade that hasn't been tensioned.

	Carbide blades will last up to 60 times longer than steel blades.

-- 
Jim Roche
roche@cs.rochester.edu
University of Rochester Computer Science Department Rochester, NY 14627
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking