HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jhp@sactoh0.sac.ca.us (Jim H. Puga)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Smoothing edges from a table saw cut(HOW?)
Date: 24 Aug 92 02:16:10 GMT
Reply-To: jhp@sactoh0.SAC.CA.US (Jim H. Puga)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Sacramento Public Access Unix, Sacramento, Ca.

I've started my bookcase project and have a question.  I cut my
pieces a little bigger than needed and figured I would straighten
out the edges by some other means(I didn't want to try and do
exact cuts on the table saw).

I tried routing the wood(it is plywood) and I soon noticed that 
this isn't a very good idea.  Aside from buying a joiner, is
there another way to "straighten" out the edges?  Is there a
special router bit that can do it?  I could plane it but that
seems like it would take too long.

Any and all help is appreciated.

Thanks, in advance.
-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------
- jhp@sactoh0.SAC.CA.US    What else can I say?             -
-------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stevep@lugh.se.hou.compaq.com (StevePinnDick)
Subject: Re: Wood for drain board?
Organization: Compaq Computer Corporation
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 19:58:04 GMT

In article <HOLLEN.92Sep1092346@peg.megatek.UUCP>, hollen@megatek.UUCP (Dion Hollenbeck) writes:
|> I would like to make a wooden dish drainer.  Does anyone have
|> suggestion about:
|> 
|> What wood to use?
|> 
|> What finish to use?
|> 
|> Glue-up?  Dowels?  Biscuits?
|> 
|> I have available table saw, thickness planer, jointer, router, etc. so
|> I can do just about anything anyone suggests.
|> 
|> -- 
|> Dion Hollenbeck       UUCP: {uunet, ucsd, sun}!megatek!hollen
|>                       INTERNET:            hollen@megatek.com
|> Megatek Corporation  9645 Scranton Rd.  San Diego, Ca.  92121

Good questions to ask Dion.  Please don't consider this list absolute (I wish I were that smart!)

	Wood Qualitities
		+ Water Resistance
		+ Decay Resistance
		+ Non Toxic
	Consider - White Oak, Redwood, Teak, African Mahagony, Maple (if the time spent wet is not excessive).  If possible quartersawn.

	Glue Qualities
		+ Waterproof
	Consider - Epoxy, Resin, Titebond II (least)

	Joinery
		+ Allow wood movement
	Consider - Biscuit, however don't breadboard the ends

	Finish Qualities
		+ Waterproof
		+ Non Toxic
	Consider - Salad Bowl finish, Walnut Oil.

The wood choice is up to you based on the design and function you are trying to achieve.  For glue I would use epoxy and joinery biscuits.  Finishes again are going to depend on how long water will stand on the board and the fact that you need a non toxic surface.  This will probably mean that you will have to re-oil periodically.

Hope this helps - Steve
Organization: Saint Bonaventure University
X-Pmrqc:      1
X-Mailer:     Pegasus Mail v2.3 (R3).
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Thu, 27 Aug 1992 06:29:59 DST
From:         Pete Jermann <PJERMANN@SBU.EDU>
Subject:      reciprocating table saw?

> How about an affordable table-mounted saw for somebody that likes woodworking,
> but only participates occasionally, and has limited space?  I want something
> that can cut curves like a bandsaw, but isn't limited to narrow pieces by the
> C-shaped frame of the saw.  I would like a saw for cutting wide pieces, like a
> tablesaw, that isn't limited to straight cuts.  Is there such a thing as a
> reciprocating tablesaw, with no C-shaped frame to obstruct the cutting of wide
> pieces like plywood?  If there is such a thing, do they work relatively well?

   I once purchased a router/saber saw table that when set up with the saber
saw created such a reciprocating table saw.  It took only one or two
uses to recognize the inherent limits in this device.  Any blade that is
small enough to cut curves is not rigid enough to cut a good straight line
(or even maintain a constant angle of 90 degrees to the work) unless it is
secured on both ends and tensioned (such as band saws and jig saws).
Reciprocating saws, both the small and larger construction work varieties,
are made for rough cutting and have little use in a cabinet making or
woodworking setting where precision is required.  The blade on my
"reciprocating saw table" wobbled and made truly lousy cuts.  Even a beefed
up version would suffer the same limitations (to a lesser degree).  In
addition, I thought the whole set up was extremely dangerous even with a
blade guard.




Pete Jermann                    |          St. Bonaventure University
Preservation Officer            |          St. Bonaventure, NY 14778
Friedsam Memorial Library       |          (716) 375-2324
From: bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Router Alternative (Was propeller)
Date: 26 Aug 92 20:50:52 GMT
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Distribution: na
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated

Ed Clarke writes
> In article <4031@moscom.UUCP>, de@moscom.UUCP (David Esan) writes:
> |> In article <KEVIN.92Aug26113658@bremerer.cs.adelaide.edu.au>  
kevin@cs.adelaide.edu.au (Kevin Maciunas) writes:
> |> Okay, so a 3.5 inch panel raising bit is dangerous.  What are the 
> |> alternatives?
> 
> Use a shaper instead.  The Delta light duty version ...


Is a "light-duty" shaper with a 1/2" spindle really any safer than a  
"heavy-duty" router with a 1/2" collet if you've got the two machines turning  
at the same rpm? 

Also, I've read that the router has the advantage that the cutter is under the  
work whereas usually shaper cutters are over the work. With the cutter under  
the work you can lift the wood slightly without increasing the danger (or  
ruining the workpiece).
From: myjak@titan.ksc.nasa.gov (Michael D. Myjak)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Air Compressor Wisdom
Date: 26 Aug 92 18:54:18 GMT
Organization: NASA, Kennedy Space Center

> ron@pilot.njin.net (Ron Natalie) writes:
>> Also, has anyone used PVC (sched 40 or 80) for 125 pound air?  I notice
>> that all the air in the lab here is in 3/4 inch copper pipe.
> 
> It will burst.  There is plastic tubing availble designed for air
> distribution though.  There were some "Now I Know" type letters in
> FWW about this.
> 
> -Ron
-- 

It will not. I've seen several shops using PVC plumbing for compressed
air. The cheap stuff will burst, as will sch-40 and sch80 if their
impacted, or over stressed. I have schedule-40 3/4" PVC lines running
throughout my shop and garage and (illegal) paint bay. Sch-40 3/4" PVC
is rated at 440psi (!) and can actually sustain much more than before
it fails catastrophically. 

 However, as I had responded to the original poster, PVC is brittle,
and as such, is suspectable to stress facturing if to much force is
used while connecting and disconnecting the commonly used
"quick-disconnects". The way to prevent this from happening is to
fix-mount the PVC and attach the quick disconnects using a short piece
of flexible 3/8" or 1/4" rubber hose.

- Michael D. Myjak			
  Senior Technical Specialist, Systems Analyst
  McDonnell Douglas Space Systems Company - KSC
  MYJAK@TITAN.KSC.NASA.GOV

Fea'ture N.  Distinction; Characteristic; Perculiarity (!)
             A bug with documentation.
From: wack@ariel.ncsl.nist.gov (John Wack)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: thos. moser's address
Date: 25 Aug 92 17:54:01 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: National Institute of Standards & Technology


From an earlier posting, I've been asked to supply info on how to
get a copy of Thos. Moser's catalog.  Here it is:

Portland, ME		207-774-3791
Philadelphia, PA	215-922-6440
Alexandria, VA		703-548-3447

I visited the Alexandria store and paid 5 bucks for the catalog in 
1991 -- I don't know what it costs now.  It is a very nice catalog,
almost a sort of coffee table book, with nice sections on woodworking
and lots of good photography.  His 1990 price list is steep, but the 
quality is absolutely superb -- cherry has increased in price
dramatically (why?) lately, so I suspect that his 1992 prices are
even higher.  I have one of Moser's earlier books - How to Build
Shaker Furniture (I think) and I find that this catalog, with its
more refined designs and color photography, makes a good companion
to the earlier book.

Happy reading!
John Wack
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: SUM(sort of) about straightening plywood edges.
Date: 28 Aug 92 15:29:50 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

Jim H. Puga writes:
>
>>..................................................  I did have some
>>"dips" in the cut but I figured that when I routed, that would alleviate
>>the problem(Aside from buying the bigger table, how have you folks managed
>>to get around the "moving sheet of plywood, while ripping it" problem?).

George Patterson offers:
>Personally, I use a circular saw to cut it in half (or whatever comes
>closest to that and still fits in with my project). Half sheets are a
>little easier to handle. I don't use jigs, just chalk line, saw horses,
>and free-hand cutting. It usually wastes a total of 1/8" of wood.

Like George, I also cut down big sheets of plywood (in the garage, as I
cannot get 4x8 stock down my basement stairs to the shop) with a circular
saw.  Unlike George, I use a straightedge cutting guide.  Using a miter
guide or a square, I square up the guide to an edge.  Depending upon
the final use, this often gives me a cut accurate enough to be used without
further trimming (for larger pieces, I am limited by my borrowed-from-dad
tablesaw's 27 inch or so rip capacity).  It takes a minute or two to set the 
cut up, but I have found it worth the extra time spent.

Dave
-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
The heart and the mind on a parallel course, never the two shall meet.
						-E. Saliers
From: games@max.u.washington.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Need advice on a rota-hammer
Date: 28 Aug 92 16:31:48 GMT
Distribution: usa,world

> 
> Anyway, my point is this.  There are plenty of tools on the market
> that will do what you want, but you might want to consider renting
> if you know you are not going to use it much.  You might also be able
> to rent more tool than your pocketbook is able to buy.
> 
> 
> Dave Kroth
> kroth@acadia.kodak.com

Back to my original premise...  I have 2 or 3 rental properties, and I have 
identified up to about 10 projects that I need to do.  Because of the nature of 
the projects, I can't really do them all in a small number of rentals of the
tool.  This means that I will be better off buying one.  (After 10 rentals
at $35 (after bit wear, at the near rental place), I am into it for a 
significant amount.  Also, these are just the projects that I have Identified
at present.  There will likely be more as time goes on.

			John.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jcw1@Ra.MsState.Edu (Jeff C. Wilson)
Subject: unisaw
Keywords: saw, unisaw
Organization: Mississippi State University
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 17:05:24 GMT


 i bought a contractors type saw (brand x)
about 10 years ago, it did ok.

but

1. did not have the power for some work.
2. fence was poor at best.

I have just purchased a delta unisaw 3hp with 52" unifence
with mobile base and 37" wide outfeed rollers. I like the
power and ease of use of the unifence. glad i got he saw
i wish i had bought it 10 years ago. 

i did not buy the board for the table part of the unifence
i used 3/4 9ply plywood for both parts.

The mobile base on the unisaw is good for moving the saw around
the shop, hover the heavy unisaw will stay in the shop. 

The contractors type saw in more mobile.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: Morten Mortise and Tenon Jig
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 16:24:28 GMT

David Dorfman writes
> In <3779@ecicrl.ocunix.on.ca> clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)  
writes:
> 
> >One further warning about the bit.  The real shank is much smaller than  
1/4".
> >A split sleeve is slipped over the real shank to hold the bearing in place
> >against the cutters.  If the router collet isn't cranked down good and tight
> >the sleeve will start rotating on the real shank, and overheat everything
> >*very* fast.  And mak the depth of cut vary.  My bit is slightly burnt from
> >this.
> 
> This is very true, I would like to see the two piece shaft "go away". Does 
> anyone know of a 1/2" shaft version of the ball bearing bit required for this  
jig? 
> 
> I have gone through at least 3 of these bit's both HSS and the carbine  
versions.
> It is also a ral problem loosening the collet when you are done with the bit.
> 
> I would like to see this bit done with a true 1/2" shaft.


Wouldn't that be difficult given that the bearing itself is less than 1/2" in  
diamter? If you're having overheating problems and have a variable speed
router, try slowing the router down to about 15K-18K rpm.

If I'm not mistaken, the bit is a 5/16" bit with a 3/8" bearing. I've seen 
non-PC made replacements in Eagle America's catalog.

But, here's an idea: Onsrud makes a 5/16" HSS spiral bit with a 1/4" shank. You 
can either put a 3/8" template guide on your router or buy a 1/4" id by 3/8"
od ball bearing and place it on the shank. I've seen this bit in catalogs
from Woodcraft and Leigh Industries (the dovetail jig people). Spiral bits are
great for plunging into wood, and the spiral cutters make a very clean cut.
Onsrud claims the spiral cutting geometry also reduces wear on the cutting
edges, so you don't really need carbide.

If the templete guide idea works, it would have the advantage that you could
firmly seat a plunge router's base on the jig and plunge to the desired depth.
This would also mean you could make shorter or longer tenons/mortises much
more easily.

Sorry if I'm wrong about the 3/8" bearing.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: clarke@watson.ibm.com (Ed Clarke)
Subject: Air Compressor Wisdom
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 13:47:20 GMT
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center

|> >In article <BtJFHK.1I4.2@cs.cmu.edu>, br@cs.cmu.edu (Bill Ross) writes:
|> >tank.  True, in folks experience?  Where does one bring a compressor to
|> >be inspected?  ...

Where does one purchase a new TANK only?  I have a (small,new) compressor,
but I'd like a larger stand-alone pressure tank.  A large storage capacity
will let me run big air tools with a smaller compressor unit.

Also, has anyone used PVC (sched 40 or 80) for 125 pound air?  I notice
that all the air in the lab here is in 3/4 inch copper pipe.  Is there
any reason not to use PVC?  It's sure easier to work with!  I'm tired of
hanging 3/8 hose all over the place in my basement.

Ed Clarke
clarke@watson.ibm.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ericb@microsoft.com (Eric Brown)
Subject: Re: CAREFUL WITH THAT PROPELLER!!!!
Date: 28 Aug 92 00:49:06 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp

David Esan writes:
|Okay, so a 3.5 inch panel raising bit is dangerous.  What are the alternatives?
|
|I have a new kitchen I want to redo, and thought about the 3.5 in bit
|myself.  It give a nicer profile than a table saw.

Byrom make a series of panel raising router bits that have the profile
going parallel to the shaft rather than perpendicular to it.  The difference
being you need to run the panels vertically across your router table rather
than flat.  A feather board to hold the panel tight to the fence is handy
here.  I also want to repeat the suggestion that the majority of the waste
wood be cut away on the table saw before making the finishing cut with the
router.  Not only it is safer, but you get a smoother cut with less bit
dulling.

Note that Byrom is (has) going out of business, so you may need to hunt
around to find bits like this.

The prefered method is to use a shaper, but even then it is much safer
to have a vertical profile cutter.  (Maybe someday I will be able to
afford a shaper; not a toy but one with a tilting spindle and massive
construction.)  I worked once in a cabinet shop where the panel raising
was done on a Delta 3/4" shaper with a horizontal profile cutter (about
6 inches in diameter).  Gawd, was that thing scary!

Caveat: you can't do crowned-top panels with a vertical profile cutter.
If you want crowned panels, you will have to live dangerously.

    Eric

-- 
    Eric
                 Microsoft PSS R&D, OnLine Development Team
            {sun, uw-beaver, apple, uunet, fluke}!microsoft!ericb 
                       internet: ericb@microsoft.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stetzer@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Frank Stetzer)
Subject: Re: SUM(sort of) about straightening plywood edges
Originator: stetzer@csd4.csd.uwm.edu
Organization: Computing Services Division, University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 19:20:28 GMT

Jim H Puga writes:

>Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
>From: jhp@sactoh0.sac.ca.us (Jim H. Puga)
>Subject: SUM(sort of) about straightening plywood edges.
>Date: Thu, 27 Aug 92 13:21:09 GMT
>
>...
>
>BTW, I have the Delta contractor's saw and have another question.  When the
>saw is running, it seems to run smoothly with no problem.  When I turn it
>off, it starts to slow down and everything is ok.  Eventually, something
>appears to get out of balance and the whole saw starts to vibrate.  The
>best comparison I can come up with would be a washer.  When the washer 
>starts its spin cycle, if the clothes are balanced, the washer will come to
>a nice, even stop.  Should the clothes gather on one side while the cycle is
>going, it will start to jump since the tub is out of balance(I hope this
>makes things clearer).  Anyway, is this a problem with my saw(if it is,
>what's wrong and how do I fix it) or is just a quirk of every saw?
>
>-------------------------------------------------------------
>- jhp@sactoh0.SAC.CA.US    What else can I say?             -
>-------------------------------------------------------------

My Delta contractors saw (almost new) has done this since the day
I got it.  Since everything seems square and it cuts nice I haven't
worried.  (I use a Forrest blade & stiffner so I dont think thats
the problem.)

I think the origin of the shudder when it slows down is in the belt 
and/or motor.  When you turn it off sometime, lean over the saw
and watch the motor. At the point in time where the saw shudders,
my motor really shakes on its mount.  I'm going to double check that
the pulleys are in line.  As I recall, that was kind of an eyeball
operation when I put the saw together.  If thats not it, then I dunno.

==========================================================================
Frank Stetzer                                   stetzer@convex.csd.uwm.edu
Statistical Software Coordinator                P.O. Box 413
Computing Services Division                     Milwaukee, WI 53201
University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee             (414)-229-4571

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: fkilpatr@afit.af.mil (Freeman A. Kilpatrick)
Subject: Re: Incra jigs
Organization: Air Force Institute of Technology
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 01:46:09 GMT

billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson) writes:


>1/32" inch kerf? I didn't know you could get one that fine. Most of my
>blades are either 3/32 or 1/8 inch.

I must disagree.  I would say: 1/32" kerf ????!!!!!!  I think that must
be a misprint, I can't imagine a 1/32" saw blade.  You would probably be
able to bend it with your hands...  Although, it would definitely cut
down on stock waste. :)
-- 
Alex Kilpatrick  fkilpatr@afit.af.mil  
"Where the ENIAC is equipped with 18,000 vacuum tubes and weighs 30 tons, computers in the future may have only 1,000 vacuum tubes and weigh only 1 1/2 tons." 
---Popular Mechanics, March 1949
From: jeff@hilbert.cyprs.rain.com (Jeffrey S. Freedman)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: My name is Tim, and I am a molding nerd...
Date: 3 Sep 92 22:47:02 GMT
Article-I.D.: hilbert.1992Sep3.224702.9741
Organization: Cypress Semiconductor Northwest, Beaverton Oregon

In article <1992Sep3.125250.25357@linus.mitre.org> bds@mbunix.mitre.org (Smith) writes:
>In article <1992Sep2.165809.29163@hilbert.cyprs.rain.com> jeff@hilbert.cyprs.rain.com (Jeffrey S. Freedman) writes:
>>Well, I used a Stanley #55 to hand-plane about 200 ft. of birch moulding for
>>my youngest daughter's room.  Does that qualify me?
>>
>>-- Jeff Freedman
>
>And I thought I might have been going overboard when I cut all the
>baseboard molding, crown molding, and casing for my living room with a
>Williams and Hussey molder/planer.  To do it by hand sounds painful at
>best. 

Well, yes, I'll admit that it was.  That's why I recently bought a shaper.
From: coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM (Chip Coffin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Incra jigs
Date: 2 Sep 1992 16:37:33 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems
Distribution: world
Reply-To: coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: surfin


Bennett just got me on my last posting.  The bit about 1/64 increments, 

Pretend like you didn't read it.  Actually, it would work *if* one of the
jigs was at a 120 degree angle WRT the other, but this is sounding more like 
a rube goldberg while-you-wait.




chip
From: tomj@monster.saic.com (Tom Johnson)
Subject: Re: Brass Dip Cleaners
Reply-To: tomj@monster.saic.com (Tom Johnson)
Organization: SAIC, McLean, VA
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 92 11:43:03 GMT

In article <9uqaqB2w165w@tribiet.maintech.com> jocon@tribiet.maintech.com (Joe Connors) writes:
>        I have a great deal of brass hardware from furniture
>pieces that is coated with tarnish and grime. As the pieces are
>intricate, and it would be tedious cleaning and polishing all the
>detail areas, I am looking for a dip that will do the work for
>me. I would appreciate any leads or products or chemical
>solutions you might know of. Thanks!
> 

I don't know about specific solutions for brass; however, you might
try a jeweler's ultrasonic cleaner.  The ones I've seen hold about 
2 cups of cleaning solution, which should be big enough for a couple of drawer
pulls at a time.  I know they work great on my wife's engagement ring!

-- tom


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mmf@evolving.com (Mark Frazier)
Subject: Re: CAREFUL WITH THAT PROPELLER!!!!
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 14:09:08 GMT
Distribution: world, na, usa
Organization: Evolving Systems, Inc.
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4

Kevin Maciunas writes:

	Okay, so a 3.5 inch panel raising bit is dangerous.  What are the alternatives?

	I have a new kitchen I want to redo, and thought about the 3.5 in bit
	myself.  It give a nicer profile than a table saw.

Then Tom Perigrin writes:
: 
: Three is a new (?) product out called the "vertical panel raising" router bit.
: Instead of being 3.5 inches in dia,  it is 1.75 inches long and .75 in dia.
: Obviously the surface velocity at the outer edges is much less for this bit.
: With the big bit you run the router over the panel vertically, at a 90 deg
: angle to the face of the panel.  With the "vertical panel raising" bit, 
: you set the router up in a jig horizonatally, and run the panel under the bit.
: The axis of the bit is parallel to the face of the panel. You get the 
: same profile.   
: 
: Just proves that there is more than one way to rout a cat !!!

So then Mark Frazier adds fuel:

	This is only good if your raised panels are all straight. Which mine will
	not be. That's why I bought the other type of bit. The guy I'm about to
	build kitchen cabinets for wants curved tops on his doors, so you have to
	do it with the hand held router.

	Kevin - I think the concensus is: use it with a variable speed router
	and slow it down (as I mentioned in the original post).

MMF
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking