HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: Larry.Mc.Donald@ofa123.fidonet.org
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: stuck carb, airborne
X-Sender: newtout 0.02 Nov 17 1992
Date: 22 Dec 92  11:39:02

 zm@cbnewsb.cb.att.com 
   
   (Zafer Mehmood)

> Whenever I read stories about runaway cars with stuck throttle 
> plate/cable or cruise mechanisms, I wonder why the transmission cannot
> be shifted into neutral to disengage the engine from the drive-train.
> Yes, the engine can over-rev causing damage but that's a cheap price
> to pay compared to the risk of collision and bodily injury. In a
> couple of automatics that I've tried, I was able to shift into neutral
> even while accelerating. Manual transmissions, on the other hand won't
> shift into neutral while accelerating (at least not easily), but then
> you can use the clutch to disengage the engine from the transmission.

> Aside from the driver panicking and not having the presence of mind,
> is there a reason why this can not be done? Am I missing something?

   Other than pieces of the block getting under the tires and 
puncturing them, no, no reason. A better solution that doesn't 
cause irrepairable engine damage is to just turn the car off. I 
had a Ford Maverick get it's throttle stuck on the freeway and I 
was able to get it off the freeway and to a parking lot by 
regulating it's speed by turning it on and off. 



> Zafer
  


... Larry.Mc.Donald, N6ZMB, Fullerton, California!  <cough, cough>
--- Blue Wave/QWK v2.10

--- Maximus 2.01wb
From: yuanj@ucbeh.san.uc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Before Buying Japanese.
Date: 31 Dec 92 15:48:17 EST
Distribution: world
Organization: Univ. of Cincinnati

In article <1992Dec30.175438.18370@ll.mit.edu>, psanders@ll.mit.edu (Pete Sanders) writes:
> 
> Before buying a new Japanese car please read:
> 
> 	JAPANYES, (2nd edition)
>  
> monu6.cc.monash.edu.au. The most recent version is in pub/nihongo.
> 
> 	(ftp site)
Is this FTP site in Australia?  You are causing some network traffic across the
Pacific Oscean!

I ftp'ed the file and read it.  All it tells can summerized as "Japan does not
play fair in its trade with the USA."

I am Chinese and I can tell you that China does not play fair with the USA if
you think the USA is absolutely playing free trade.  I do not think other
countries are playing fair to each other either (e.g. Korea, Singapore, etc.). 

All the USA can do to counteract the facts is exercise restrictions in trade
with those countries.  Does the USA restrict other countries now?

J.Y.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz)
Subject: Re: 100 000 miles at redline
Organization: Naval Ocean Systems Center, San Diego
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 1992 01:40:35 GMT

In article <3967.88.uupcb@chaos.lrk.ar.us> dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)  writes:

after someone else wrote:

-> A BMW ad claims their car (or was it just the engine?) was driven for
-> at redline 100 000 miles straight. The engine showed no signs of
-> wear.

> They used blind mechanics, or they're simply outright liars.
        
or they only let non-vision-impaired mechanics perform *external* visual
inspection...

Walt K.
From: george@mech.seas.upenn.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Ford Escort w/Bad Engine(1985)$110!!!!!!
Date: 23 Dec 92 00:10:31 GMT
Organization: University of Pennsylvania, Mechanical Engineering

you pay shipping?

--
  /   george jefferson
\/ *  george@mech.seas.upenn.edu
From: dpark@Bonnie.ICS.UCI.EDU
Subject: Nissan Maxima Transmission
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Date: 28 Dec 92 09:34:36 GMT


I own a 1987 Nissan Maxima with 87000 miles.  When my engine is cold(usually morning), the automatic transmission does not shift to third gear.  It is only after about a mile later when the car is warmed up that it finally shifts to third and fourth gears.  After the initial difficult shift, the car shifts to the third and fourth gears without any difficulty.

The transmission fluid level is fine, and the transmission fluid was changed recently.

Is this something to be concerned about? Or is this common among older transmissions and something I should live with?


					Douglas Park
From: jxs18@po.CWRU.Edu (Jerry Sy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Exhaust pipe - how to remove?
Date: 29 Dec 1992 13:25:01 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: jxs18@po.CWRU.Edu (Jerry Sy)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, htunca@ncsa.uiuc.edu (Skinny Puppy) says:

>This weekend I was trying to remove the exhaust pipe from the
>muffler on a 91 Dodge Caravan.  I was able to remove the U clamp
>along with the exhaust body mounts, however when I tried to
>actually remove the pipe from the muffler it just wouldn't
>move.  It looks like corrosion might be causing this.  What are
>the methods or tools used to remove a corroded exhaust
>pipe?  Any help is appreciated.
>
>
if you don't intend to save the exhaust pipe (due to corrosion), use
a chisel and hammer at the connecting point, careful not to harm the
part you want to save.  

and also, if you are going to use some old parts, such as the muffler,
an exhaust pipe expansion tool is necessary to get an easy, good fit
with the new pipes.



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
From: bruce@gordian.com (Bruce Hafford)
Subject: Sentra Idle/Transmission Weirdness
Organization: Gordian
Distribution: us
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1992 17:53:22 GMT

Howdy - I've got kind of an odd problem that I'd love some insight on:

82 Sentra, 5 speed.  Runs great once its warmed up - no stumbles, misses,
hesitation, nothing.  Only warming up (usually in cold weather) has problems.

Normal case:  Turn engine on, let it warm up in gear (clutch in, obviously).
Warms up at 1700-2000 RPM (always has).  After 1-2 minutes, goose 
throttle, RPM's drop to ~800, drive away.  Everything happy.

Odd Case: Turn engine on, let it warm up in NEUTRAL, still with clutch in.
Warms up at 2800-3200 RPM.  Shifting into gear (all with clutch in)
drops rpms to ~2000, like above.  Back to neutral, ~3000 rpm, etc.

Bad Case:  Turn engine on, keep clutch in, shift to a gear, but it stays between
3000 and 4000 RPM.  Shifting gears (clutch still in) has no effect - runs
at 3-4k rpm til warmed up (30 sec - 1 minute).  Trying to drive it in this
case before fully warmed is an adventure, as the idle forces you to a speed
even if you let off the gas.  Clutch in simply puts the RPMs back to ~4000.

Obviously I don't like it warming up at 4000 RPM.  So:

Part 1 - why does/should engaging the gears have any effect on RPMs when 
the clutch is still disengaged?  Am I missing something obvious?

Part 2 - why should the fast idle sometimes go to 4000 rpm?  I'm willing
to have it serviced (and probably will) but would like thoughts on what
to check for first...

Any thoughts or explanations appreciated...

bruce@gordian.com
From: tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu (Terry Quinn)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Hypoid/nonHypoid gear lubes...
Date: 28 Dec 1992 18:23:46 -0600
Organization: CS Dept, University of Texas at Austin
Reply-To: tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu



> It is time to change my transmission oil in my 1973 BMW 2002.
> The manual specifies explicitly that only Non-hypoid gear lube should
> be used in the transmission. I have been to a couple of car parts
> stores none of which had non-hypoid gear lube.
 
Does the manual give any other specification for the oil other 
than "non-hypoid."  Hypoid oils usually contain extreme pressure 
additives which can attack some components such as bronze.  That 
is probably why they want you to avoid hypoid oils.  But there 
should be a better technical spec for the oil than what you have 
stated.

--
                                    Terry Quinn
                                     Germantown Hills, IL
                                      tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu
from Compuserve . . .                  >INTERNET: tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu
From: livneh@wells.rutgers.edu (Shai Livneh)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: My car won't reverse. Again!
Date: 23 Dec 92 16:33:18 GMT
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

Hacksaw,
	Don't know if this will help ya but I had the same problem with my
car.  I bought an ols police car (89 Caprice with the police package).  At
first the tranny was fine but as we all know the lack of respect the cops 
show to their cars finally caught up with my car.  It sounded exactly like
your problem - doesn't click into reverse but rather rolls after a few 
seconds backwards, but when giving it some gas - nothing.  I took it to
a transmission place and they rebuilt the thing for me ($1200 - ouch).  
When they opened the pan up it was full of metal parts even though the
level was ok.  Also one of the internal pumps was shot and basically they
replaced every hard and soft part in there.  Your transmission is probably 
in better shape than mine was but I would atleast replace the transmission
fluid and maybe take a look at the internal parts as well.
								Shai
From: ah335@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Richard Banks)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Nissan Maxima Transmission
Date: 3 Jan 1993 00:52:09 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: ah335@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Richard Banks)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc4.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, keith@balrog.dseg.ti.com (Keith A. Schauer) says:

>In article <1992Dec30.162100.25646@julian.uwo.ca> TX_WAYNE@rrivax.rri.uwo.ca (Wayne Johnson) writes:
>>In <1992Dec29.220622.3334@balrog.dseg.ti.com> keith@balrog.dseg.ti.com writes:
>>
>>> In article <9212280134.aa14948@Bonnie.ics.uci.edu> dpark@Bonnie.ICS.UCI.EDU writes:
>>> >
>>> >I own a 1987 Nissan Maxima with 87000 miles.  When my engine is 
>>> >cold(usually morning), the automatic transmission does not shift to third 
>>> >gear.  It is only after about a mile later when the car is warmed up that 
>>> >it finally shifts to third and fourth gears.  After the initial difficult 
>>> >shift, the car shifts to the third and fourth gears without any difficulty.
>>> >
>>> >Is this something to be concerned about? Or is this common among older 
>>> >transmissions and something I should live with?
>>> >
>>> 	I don't know alot about automatics, but my Maxima (87 75K) is the same
>>> 	way.  It doesn't take a mile to warm up, but may take a couple of
>>> 	blocks to get into 3rd.  
>>> 
>>
>>Are you certain it isn't the OVERDRIVE that's not kicking in when the
>>tranny is cold?  
>
>	I don't run my car in overdrive in town.
>>
>>According to my dealer this is normal for my Stanza (tho I've never driven
>>any other vehicle that behaves this way).  
>>
>>Perhaps this is a "feature" of all Nissans with O/D automatics.
>
>	Definately a feature of the O/D.  I've noticed that too.
>>
>
>
>-- 
>Keith Schauer		Texas Instruments	Plain O, Texas
>80 CB900 Custom		
>DoD #0901		In an insane society, the sane man must appear insane.
>			My company disavows any knowledge of my actions.
>


I guess the reason behind this feature if indeed that was it is, was so
that the engine can get warmed up faster. By not letting it kick into
overdrive they can accomplish this to some degree, at a huge price
of efficiency though, especially since your car is at it's least
efficient when the engine is cold anyway.
From: genet@hplsla.hp.com (Gene Taylor)
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 00:19:03 GMT
Subject: Re: How do you remove frozen, stripped screws?
Organization: HP Lake Stevens, WA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

If you try all the standard "easy" methods and you haven't gotten it
out yet, you might consider burning it out.  Some experienced welders
know how to use a welder (electric, I think) to burn out the broken
bolt.  This probably works only in certain circumstances (like NOT for
aluminum) and I don't know much about it.  Ask a good welder/junk yard
person.  Good luck.

-Gene
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dmartin@pico.engr.mun.ca (Dan Martin)
Subject: 85 Honda Accord LX
Keywords: car, honda, auto
Organization: Memorial University of Newfoundland
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1993 21:45:50 GMT


Does anyone know the book value on a 85 Honda Accord LX, standard, with
166000 kms.  I checked almost every book store in my area but couldn't 
find the "black book" anywhere.  I am thinking about buying it for
$1800.  Is there problems with old accords that I should look out for?

Thanks in advance.

Dan
email:dmartin@pico.engr.mun.ca
From: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Help... Car MPG has becom
Date: 31 Dec 92 16:19:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Ye Olde Bailey BBS - Houston, TX - 713-520-1569
Reply-To: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 

   >>>Subject: Help... Car MPG has become very poor.... >>>Message-ID:
   <1992Dec30.155722.15084@wam.umd.edu> >>>Sender: usenet@wam.umd.edu
   (USENET News system) >>>Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1992 15:57:22 GMT

ZUC>>>I have 1985 Mitsubishi Mirage whose MPG has reduced from 30 to only 15MPG
   >>>Few weeks ago it failed the emissions test and I posted the problem in
   >>>this news group. I suggested to change the carb. and I did that. However,
   >>>MPG problem is still there as is, although emissions have reduced.

ZUC>>>Is it possible that this problem is due to high valve clearences, because
   >>>I haven't adjusted them for a long time.  My car has 1,20,000 miles on it
   >>>Engine doesn't give any smoke while running. In the morning there is some
   >>>some for few minutes.

ZUC>>>I have also checked all the hoses for any leaks, and found non. BTW, spar
   >>>plugs become full with carbon within two weeks. I'll appreciate if anyone
   >>>can help me out of this problem.

ZUC>>>Thanks.
   >>>Zafar.

Black sooty deposits on the plugs is still a definite indication of a
rich running car. You replaced the carb but was it adjusted or checked
with a gas analyser? Are you sure the choke opens up completely? If not
then check for power TO the choke. Also possiblity you clogged the
catalytic converter, is power normal? Not too likely on this car but you
might check the vapor cannister and controls also.....
                                                        Don


 * SLMR 2.1a * I put spot remover on my dog....Spots gone!
                                                                                                                          
----
+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Ye Olde Bailey BBS   713-520-1569 (V.32bis) 713-520-9566 (V.32bis)     |
|   Houston,Texas          yob.sccsi.com       Home of alt.cosuard       |
+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dhepner@cup.hp.com (Dan Hepner)
Subject: Re: Cummins
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 19:33:54 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1scd1 PL4

From: jimv@hienergy.Eng.Sun.COM (Jim Vienneau  - Sun Microsystems)

>>-mileage twice that of a gas engine with similar specs (the truck 454)
>>-700+ miles of range
>>-great low end torque
>>-well behaved at high altitude

>Too bad it's all in a Dodge pickup though. I'd lay odds that the Ford will
>still be around long after that Chrysler "MBA designed" body squeeks, rattles, and
>rusts itself to death (not to mention the cheezy interior). No doubt about it,
>the Cummins is one hell of an engine, but it's only one part of the overall
>package.

The traditional beefs against Dodge trucks are two:

1.  Lack of innovation.  20 years later, nothing has changed.
2.  Chrysler Corporation craftsmanship.

Durability of bodies, or mechanical components has never been a problem
relative to Ford & GM.

Not everyone sees innovation in driveline components which replaced iron
with aluminum, and resulted in lower capacity to be positive.  To be sure,
shift-on-the-fly to low range, could be nice.  But automatic hubs have
their downside.  And while the Chrysler small block V8 may suffer from
legitimate innovation complaints, this would seem to have little to do
with the Cummins package (which all of the engine, transmission, and
differentials, and most of the electronics come from other than Chrysler 
Corporation).

Chrysler craftsmanship has improved, but could improve more.  Chrysler
does offer the best warranty of any truck manufacturer.

Dan Hepner
From: frank@marvin.contex.com (Frank Perdicaro)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: transmission quirk
Date: 23 Dec 92 18:42:39 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Xyvision Design Systems

In article <1992Dec18.181409.11045@colorado.edu> bowmanj@csn.org (Jerry Bowman) writes:
>In article <3207@contex.contex.com> frank@marvin.contex.com (Frank Perdicaro) writes:
>>In article <1992Dec17.213640.22309@linus.mitre.org> jm@woody.mitre.org (Jeffrey P. Manosh) writes:
>>>I own a 1988 Olds 98 Regency Brougham. It has I believe a 4 speed automatic
>>>transmission.(There are two "drive" positions, the overdrive having a circle
>>
>>Olds engines never bolted to TH700s so you either have an olds/TH200
>>
>   I,ve never heard of a TH700 enlighten me  ( not a smart ass remark )>-- 

TH700 is the GM 4 speed auto, might be called a 700-R4 more correctly;
I do not know.

All you lock/unlock folks might be interested to know that there is a
"positive fix" for this behaviour.  A top gear autolocker for the
TH700 and the TH350 can be installed.  A shift into top gear locks 
the converter after about a second.  No MAP, TPS, ECM, etc.

Gene Chris??? makes and installs and warentees these at his tranny shop
in Van Nueys, CA.  There are others.


-- 
	 Frank E Perdicaro, Systems Admin, etc.		Xyvision Color Systems
      Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.		101 Edgewater Drive
   inhouse: frank@marvin, x5572				Wakefield MA
outhouse: frank@contex.com, 617-245-4100x5572		018801285
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 100 000 miles at redline
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 23 Dec 92 19:20:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> He push started the car a few days later and drove it to the wrecking
-> yard where he received $25 for the car ($25 was the going rate for
-> cars that could be driven to the yard).
...
-> Now, I'm a skeptic and a scientist and I wouldn't give that story
-> much consideration if I'd heard it from someone else and I don't
-> expect any of you to do so either.  It certainly has nothing to do
-> with carefully conducted scientific experiments and almost nothing to
-> do with the topic of this thread.

 Heck, one of the stereo shops around here sponsored a "brick-off" a few
years ago.  They dropped a block on the accelerator with the car in
neutral, then timed how long until detonation.  The owner of the car
which lasted the longest got a free car stereo.

 To make things more interesting, they drained the oil out first.

 The winner was a Pinto station wagon, at 35 minutes.  Several other
cars (Pontiacs and Olds, mainly) came in at the 25 minute mark.

 The store did not sponsor such an event again.  It seemed most of the
contentants simply abandoned their cars in the store's parking lot...
    
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sukenick@sci.ccny.cuny.edu (SYG)
Subject: Re: Leaking seals in master cylinder - easy solution?
Organization: City College of New York - Science Computing Facility
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 00:21:20 GMT

>>>leaking rubber seal in the master cylinder.  Does anyone know about 
>DON'T TRY TO FIX THIS ON THE CHEAP.   You'd probably take the health of your
>brakes a lot more seriously if you ever tried to stop the car without 'em.
>Replace the master cylinder, or rebuild it, and be done with it.

Seconded!

There is a subtle difference between your power steering failing
because of cheap repair and the brake system.

It's not fun when it goes out and traffic has suddenly backed up ahead...

Your system is warning you.  Don't be surprised if you have to push to
to the ground just to slow a little.

It is very easy to replace. Hardest part is if the lines need
bleeding;  otherwise just be careful and use good tools when
disconnecting the fluid lines.   Heck, send it to a garage
if you don't have the time, patience, skill or insurance :-)

If you fix it cheap, please make sure your emergency brakes work,
and don't drive behind me, eh? :-)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: pburke@vms.macc.wisc.edu (Peter Burke, MIC, 608-263-7744)
Subject: Bent engine mounts in a jeep Wrangler???
Organization:  University of Wisconsin Academic Computing Center
Distribution:  usa
Date: 23 DEC 92 14:28:07    

My friend jumped his new Jeep (Wrangler) for a few feet. later he 
noticed that the shifter was moved to the right.  Nothing feels out of 
alignment, but the suspects that the engine mounts were bent on impact.  
Actually, the engine fan was hitting the plastc shroud around the 
radiator right after his jump.  We thought the differential hit the 
plastic from below, butnow he thinks it is related to the problem with 
the shifter.  Any experiences on how violent jumps can affect Jeep 
Wranglers (1.8l 4cyl engine and 31" tires on stock suspension).

I hope he is wrong, oterwise I'll never buy a Jeep.

Peter Burke                           | PBURKE@MACC.WISC.EDU 
Microcomputer Information Center      | PBURKE@Wiscmacc.BitNet
Madison Academic Computing Center     | 608-263-7744
1210 W. Dayton St., Madison, WI 53706 |
From: ljb@parkcity.dr.att.com (BLO54620-BonhamLJ(DR2194)240)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Cummins Thread
Date: 30 Dec 92 23:19:02 GMT

I've been following along with this thread about the Dodge/Cummins diesel pick-ups
and had to put in my 2 cents.

To those folks who bad mouthed the over all durability of Dodge trucks, I say
that they are far supperior in the areas of chassis rigidity, drive line strength,
and ability to withstand abuse than GM or Ford products (I've owned examples of
all three makes).  The only constistent down fall of Chryslers in general, in
my experience, is their charging systems, which are weak unless you get the 120Amp
alternator, and tend to burn out alternators and voltage regulators with maddening
regularity.  I have noticed that ChryCo has switched to Delco alts in their
passenger cars in the last 5-6 years.

When it comes to sheer grunt to pull heavy loads, the Dodge/Cummins is awesome
compared to Ford/GM.  I know several people who own these beasts and have seen
them in action.  Here in the mountains of Colorado (No Amendment 2 flames please,
we just don't give a damn any more), these trucks are fast replacing the Fords and
Chev/GMCs on the road for REAL work.  I've tested the 3/4 ton products of the big
three in my search for a new truck (can't afford any of 'em just yet) and found
the Dodge head and shoulders above the competition.  The 454 and 460 trucks
don't come close.

A little anecdote.  A guy I know used his Cummins to tow a rather large boat
(~30 ft or so) with a Mitchell camper on the bed, four people and all their gear
for a week, from Denver to Lake Powell UT.  They were able to cruise through
the Eisenhower tunnel (Elv. 11,500 ft) at 65 mph and got 22 mpg average for the
whole trip.  For comparison, this guy's friend, whom I also know, usually pulls
this boat (pop-up camper, and folks, etc) with his 1969 3/4 ton Dodge Power
Wagon which has a 512 CID (stroked/bored 440) ChryCo big block gas motor.  The
'69 carries the load through the tunnel at 55 mph and averages 6-8 mpg to
Powell and back. 

It is a routine sight here in the hills to see a Dodge/Cummins passing cars at
high altitude, up hill, pulling a load, at 5-10 mph faster than the surrounding
traffic.  Also, almost every work truck less than 5 years old one sees on the
ranches in the area are Dodge diesels.  There's hardly a Ford or GM around any
more.  The only work truck on Dodge dealer's lots are the Cummins' and they're
selling quite rapidly.  My only concern is that Dodge may drop the Cummins
option in the '94 models because that's when their new 480 CI V10 gas motor is to
debut.  Hopefully, they'll make both motors available and just drop the 360CID
for 3/4-1 ton trucks and build only V10s and diesels.

Larry
"If you're still in control,
      you're not going fast enough."
		-- Parnelli Jones