HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: myjak@titan.ksc.nasa.gov (Michael D. Myjak)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Cleaning injectors
Date: 29 Jul 92 08:55:17 EST
Organization: NASA, Kennedy Space Center


<no name> (orban@ciit85.ciit.nrc.ca) writes...
>>I am in the process of rebuilding the fuel injection on my
>>'79 Scirocco, which has not been running in the last 5 years.
>>I have a bunch of injectors which are gummed up. I have also built
>>an injector cleaner/tester. My question is that what is the best 
>>solvent to dissolve the gum. I am not thinking of adding it to the
>>fuel, but forcing it through directly the injectors with the tester.
>> 
To which Mike Hon (vpsa3@rosie.uh.edu) writes: 
> Maybe Tolulene?  Comments, anyone?
-- 

Yes. There is a product by Berrymans <a Texas based company> called
"B-12 Chemtool" which contains tolulene... It comes in liquid or spray
cans and IMHO is probably the best stuff on the market for cleaning
gum, varnish and other deposits.

- Michael D. Myjak			
  Senior Technical Specialist, Systems Analyst
  McDonnell Douglas Space Systems Company - KSC
  MYJAK@TITAN.KSC.NASA.GOV

Fea'ture N.  Distinction; Characteristic; Perculiarity (!)
             A bug with documentation.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rakoczynskij@gtephx.UUCP (Jurek Rakoczynski)
Subject: Tightening an oil filter (was Re: Starting out?)
Organization: AG Communication Systems, Phoenix, Arizona
Distribution: rec
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 16:06:21 GMT

In article <1992Jul27.091225.4025@btcase.bt.co.uk>, gss@btcase.bt.co.uk (Graham Sewell) writes:
> agrawal@lipari.usc.edu (Amitabh Agrawal) writes:

[Various stuff about Hayes/Mazda deleted.]
  
> >I was thinking of changing the engine oil/filter by myself next
> >weekend. Can I screw it up in a big way? 
  
>                            The filter should only be put on hand-tight
> (ie do not try to use any tools to tighten further), and the seal on the
> filter is usually smeared with a little oil before replacing to improve 
> the seal.

I have moved away from using the "hand-tight" oil filter method to a
more consistent (IMO) 3/4 turn after gasket contact.  I still fight the
urge to "Snug it up just a little more!"  Even a first time oil changer
should get more consistent result using this method.  Of course you
should follow the manufactures directions for how tight.

Also, you should "always", not "usually", smear oil on the filter
gasket.  I not aware of any oil filter (with a neoprene gasket) that
doesn't require it (I know someone will prove my wrong :-) ).

Just a few other points to watch for:

1. Make sure the gasket comes off the engine mounting base when you
remove the old filter.  Wipe the mounting surface to make sure nothing
is stuck to it and the surface is smooth.  Sometimes a stuck gasket can
feel like a mounting bose and fool you.  It helps if you can see the
bose.

2. Make sure there is only one gasket on the oil filter.  Sometimes two
will stick together, and if you mount it this way, you may blow oil out
past the two gaskets.
-- 
Jurek Rakoczynski, AG Communication Systems, POB 52179, Phoenix, AZ. 85072
UUCP: ...!{ncar!noao!enuucp | att}!gtephx!rakoczynskij  Voice: +1 602 581 4867
Inet: gtephx!rakoczynskij@enuucp.eas.asu.edu              Fax: +1 602 582 7111
Inet: /DD.UN=J.RAKOCZYNSKI/O=GTE/PRMD=GTEMAIL/ADMD=TELEMAIL/C=US/@sprint.com
From: "mike knox" <mike.knox@canrem.com>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: aluminum wheels
Date: 21 Jul 92 15:06:57 EST
Reply-To: "mike knox" <mike.knox@canrem.com>
Distribution: rec
Organization: Canada Remote Systems

Hi:
 
The aluminum wheels on my 1989 GMC Jimmy have corroded quite badly due,
I believe to a defective lacquer coating that peeled off in places letting
moisture, road salt etc. get underneath.
 
GM is covering the cost of repair (to my surprise), but the service
advisor said I had a choice of whether I want the rims to be lacquered
again or not. He said if I chose not to have the lacquer applied, I'd
have to polish them practically daily. I chose to have them re-lacquered
hoping that they'll do a better job this time.
 
I want to try and preserve the newly repaired rims as long as possible,
and am wondering about a couple of things:
 
 1. Will chemical tire cleaners like Tire Brite harm the rim's lacquer or
    the aluminum itself?
 
 2. Are chemical rim cleaners (supposedly designed for aluminum/mag rims
    helpfull or harmfull?
 
 3. Are there any other commercial (or other) products that I should avoid
    contacting the wheels (I'm thinking of everything from Turtle Zip Wash
    to Windex).
 
 4. Would it be helpfull to wax the rims with a regular paste car wax or
    would this harm the lacquer?
 
Unfortunately due to personal financial constraints, winter tires/rims
are not an option for me.
 
Thanks for any help or opinions!

 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Mike Knox                  |     UUCP: canrem!mike.knox
    Brampton, Ontario          | Internet: mike.knox@canrem.com     
    CANADA                     | RelayNet: ->CRS  (Public Key: 22319)
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

 * DeLuxe2/386 1.25 #4782 * 
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario/Detroit, MI
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: georgej@gtephx.UUCP (Jefferson George)
Subject: 84 Toyota Factory Radio
Keywords: short plug
Organization: AG Communication Systems - Phoenix, AZ
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 16:40:51 GMT


Howdy,

The radio in my wife's went north (hot in phx) for the summer this week.
Actually, the tape deck went but it took the radio along.  The tape
deck is connected to the radio via a DIN plug.  Talking to the 
parts person at my local Toyota dealership, he indicated that I should
find a 'short plug' to make the radio work.  Apparently, this plug will
loop a signal back into the radio.  After searching the
recycling yards, I cannot find any such plug.  Does anyone on the
net know how to rig up something to make the radio work?




-- 
Jefferson George                                    
AG Communication Systems, Phoenix, Arizona 
Inet: gtephx!georgej@asuvax.eas.asu.edu   
UUCP: {ncar!noao!asuvax | att}!gtephx!georgej
From: shoppa@erin.caltech.edu (TIM SHOPPA)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: What does GT mean in all these sports models ?
Date: 30 Jul 92 21:57:00 GMT
Organization: California Institute of Technology
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <sks.712436068@ash.cs.scarolina.edu>, sks@cs.scarolina.edu (Shawn Sremaniak) writes...
>As far as I know, and this was true in Europe, GT stands for
>"Grand Tourisme" (sp) coming from the italian language. The exact
>meaning/translation eluded me ... :(
> 
>Shawn SreMANIAK                                 sks@usceast.cs.scarolina.edu

	According to Tom & Ray (the Boston-Italian CarTalk guys, aka Click
and Clack), it is Italian for "fat tourist."  :-)

				Tim (Shoppa@erin.caltech.edu)
				Save The Skeet Foundation
From: chrisw@hpscit.sc.hp.com (Chris Wiles)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 19:30:53 GMT
Subject: Re: 5th gear in SE Sentra
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Clara, CA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech



	Must be common occurence, my sister was looking at
a nissan sentra that had the same problems. I have no idea what
the cause could be!

	chris wiles

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: eap@leland.Stanford.EDU (Eric Perozziello)
Subject: Re: grinding gears when revving engine at high speed
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 92 18:19:00 GMT

>
>When I rev the engine to nearly redline, shifting to second gear is
>very tricky.  I try to pull the shifter into second, and instead of
>going in, it gives resistance and the transmission makes a very loud
>grinding sound.  What causes this?  More importantly, what is the
>proper way to shift quickly in this situation?
>--

The synchro's in the tranny can't make the 9000 RPM clutch match the 
NEW say, 5000-6000 RPM input shaft speed, if you were to engage into
the next higher gear. 
You could try double-clutching, or shifting g after holding the cluthc
down for a sec, but I guess youre in a hurry if youre shifting at 9 G  :^)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Oil Drain Plug Is Stuck
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 28 Jul 92 19:06:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * Jacksonville AR USA * 501-985-0059


-> If the head is not completely ruined, go and buy a set of 6-point
-> sockets and a ratchet. A good 6-point will hold on much better

 You can do better than that.

 Some years ago I bought a set of Snap-On "Flank Drive" sockets.  They
were advertised to grip the flats instead of the points, and be able to
turn partially stripped bolts or nuts.  By buying the black thickwall
impact style sockets, I got away with paying merely two or three times a
realistic price for them.

 They work as advertised.  I've often been able to remove bolts which
just let a regular six point socket pop around.

 BTW, there's seldom any reason to buy 12-point sockets.  12-point
fasteners are quite rare.  6-point sockets don't tend to strip fasteners
as bad as 12s, particularly oddball "offsize" fasteners.  You know -
those el cheapo bolts that are somewhere between 1/2 and 9/16, yet
aren't metric?  Some GM divisions loved them.
                                                                 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rcg1597@zeus.tamu.edu (GUYNN, RICHARD CARL)
Subject: Re: What does GT mean in all these sports models ?
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: Texas A&M University, Academic Computing Services
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 19:58:00 GMT

	The "GT" term has lost alot of its original meaning these days.  It 
originates from the Italian phrase "Gran Turismo", which was meant to signify a 
vehicle that was of the high performance category that could also serve as a 
touring car.  This is usually reserved for hard-top vehicles.  While there are a 
few vehicles around that could wear this name with its original intent (Mustang 
GT--the convertable really shouldn't qualify) there are others that I can't 
fathom (the Sunbird GT and the like).  SO GT has a meaning; whether it's used 
properly or not is another story.

-Rick
***************************************************************************
*Rick Guynn -MG driver wanna-be.  *  MGA 1600 MkII                        *
*RCG1597@zeus.tamu.edu            *  Rebuild (complete) to be finished ?? *
*Texas A&M University             *                                       *
*Keeper of the eternal octagon    *                                       *
* a.k.a. The marque symbol that   *                                       *
*        refuses to die.          *                                       *
***************************************************************************

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bpeal@eng.clemson.edu (brian (malibu) peal)
Subject: Kit Cars
Summary: Does any one out there have a kit car?  I have a 1929 Mercedes Bends Gazelle SSk, I just looking for so help?
Reply-To: bpeal@eng.clemson.edu
Organization: College of Engineering, Clemson Univ.
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 19:41:01 GMT



From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Clutch replacement
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 04:01:08 -0500

 GH> >NEVER... never tighten your transmission bolts to the bellhousing 
 GH> >until you get the splines aligned and the shaft _FULLLY_ inserted
 GH> >into the clutch.  If you do just reaf them down, you will at best
 GH> >strip them, at worst break the bellhousing.
 GH> 
 GH> 
 GH> Good point.
 GH> 
 GH> That reminds me of a trick I like to use lining up the input shaft 
 GH> splines.  
 GH> Get a couple long, high-quality bolts the same diameter as the
 GH> ones that bolt the transmission to the bell-housing, but several inches 
 GH> long.
 GH> Cut the heads off the bolts and screw them into the top two holes in 
 GH> the 
 GH> bell-housing.  The bolts need to be long enough to support the 
 GH> transmission
 GH> before the splines have matched up.  This prevents busting any veins in
 GH> your forehead or dropping the transmission on your face.  Once you get 
 GH> the splines in, put in a couple other bolts and replace the homemade 
 GH> studs
 GH> and voila!  (I suppose you could use some all-thread or something 
 GH> similar,
 GH> it's _your_ head ;-)

Many of these inovative suggestions are, unfortunately, not applicable to the
Mercedes. This is because the M-B transmission is fastened to the bell housing
by hex-head bolts that fasten from INSIDE the bell housing. You can of course
use the transmission front shaft as an alignment tool (altho it is not
particualarly convenient to do so, and plastic alignment tools and used
transmission shafts are so available and cheap that it is hardly worth the
effort). Once the driven plate is aligned and torqued down, you might as well
tighten the tranny to the bell housing and slip the whole assembly into
position; you might have to put the tranny in gear and turn the output flange in
order to get the splines lined up right. 

Having done a few of these the hard way, I will also opine that using jack
stands or ramps to elevate the car while you crawl underneath is to be avoided
if possible. Try to find a grease pit (ideally) or a hydraulic lift where you
can do the work without lieing on your back.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: harmonic balancer
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 23 Jul 92 23:05:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * Jacksonville AR USA * 501-985-0059


-> i never, in my entire life, heard of any harmonic balancer going out.

 I've had two (one Ford, one Chevy) come apart - the rubber sheared and
the outer ring started walking about the inner one.  Didn't notice until
I tried to set the timing one day.  "Something's *wrong* here..."

 Both of the engines had been rebuilt by other people - after pulling
off the outer ring and looking at the condition of the rubber, I believe
the balancers were dunked in some type of solvent which ate up the
rubber.
                                                                                                            
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: scocur@auto-trol.com (Scott Currier)
Subject: Re: Fun pranks to pull with your car (Was: ++WHICH OIL BEST FOR)
Organization: Auto-trol Technology Corporation
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 15:47:08 GMT

In article <9215@alvin.mcnc.org> brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks) writes:
>
>More in the vein of the "jury rig your car or die" thread, I was riding with
>a guy back to school in the pouring rain when the vacuum wipers on his
>Javelin crapped out - while we were still 3 hours from school. Fortunately,
>he had some baling twine in the trunk, which we attached to the wiper arms
>and ran in through the windows.  The expressions of the drivers passing us
>was priceless.
>
>Anybody else out there who has some interesting pranks they pull simply to
>enjoy boggling other driver's minds?

I had a '73 Cuda (many years ago) with a faulty elctronic control module.
Quite often the unit would cut out, and the only clue was that the Amp guage
would drop drastically.

Well, being an engineer, it was quite obvious that the proper fix was to
hit the module repeatedly until it would work again :-)  Well, I carried
and old Irish blackthorn walking stick for this very purpose.  When the
car would crap out, I would pull into the closest gas station, pop the
hood, and proceed to beat my car senseless until the amp guage popped
back on.

On more than one occaision, people would come by and ask what I was
doing.  My standard reply was "I'm hitting my car with a big stick!"
and that typically satisfied them. 

To this day, I have no clue if the big stick strategy actually worked,
but it always made me feel better, or at least in control of my car :-)

-- 
Disclaimer: Dis Claim is mine, all mine...
                                             Scott Currier
                                             Auto-trol Technology Corp.
scocur@auto-trol.com                         Denver, Colorado
From: jsw@umiacs.umd.edu (Jeff Webber)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Run On
Date: 22 Jul 92 17:15:17 GMT
Organization: UMIACS, University of Maryland, College Park, MD 20742

In article <1992Jul21.151937.1@sc9.intel.com> rcrandall@sc9.intel.com writes:
>
>
>I've got a 68 camaro with a 327 small block.  In the morning, if the
>choke is not completely off, and I shut the ignition off, the car will
>run on.  I want to know if anybody knows of the best method of getting
>the motor stopped in a case like this.  It has run as long as 30 seconds
>and usually backfires in the process.  
>
>Rob

If you have an automatic transmission then just shut off in drive.
The added resistence of the torque converter will keep the engine
from running on.

jeff


-- 
Jeff Webber /   U of Maryland Institute for Advanced Computer Studies
path: uunet!mimsy!jsw  phone (301)-405-6746 jsw@umiacs.umd.edu  DoD #243
1965 Ford Mustang Convertible                     1988 Honda Hawk GT 650
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: using different Oil than reccomened
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 30 Jul 92 11:08:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * Jacksonville AR USA * 501-985-0059


->      What are the ramifications of using thicker oil than
->      that reccomended by manufacturer, especially for
->      turbo engines. ex: use 20w50 in place of 10w30.

 Unless you've changed the bearing clearances during a rebuild or
experiencing low oil pressure due to wear, there's seldom any reason
to change from the type of oil the manufacturer recommends.

 A 20w50 oil does not lubricate any better than a 10w30; it's basically
just thicker and harder to pump.  In some cases, heavier oils can cause
low oil pressure at the farther reaches of your oil galleries.
                
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: eur@dutncp2.tn.tudelft.nl (Eur van Andel)
Subject: Valve adjustment on Ford V6?
Summary: How to adjust hydraulic valve adjusters?
Keywords: valve adjustment, Ford V6
Organisation: TU Delft, The Netherlands
Organization: Delft University of Technology
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1992 12:21:08 GMT

Dear Netters

Following the book, I adjusted the valves on the Ford V6 engine
of a friend of mine. I shouldn't have, because it has hydraulic 
valve lifters, which you shouldn't adjust. :-(

The engine is a 2 liter V6 and the car is a 1980 Ford Taunus:
I don't know it's name in the states, or if that engine
was ever used there.

The manual speaks about a valve clearance of .35 inlet and .45 mm exhaust.
When I adjusted this, all the clearances were to small.
After adjusting, the engine made a loud clicking noise and seemed to have 
lost some power. 

The valve adjusters are simple bolts screwed in the rocker arms, but they
turn very heavy. (seems to me the way they are locked)
My manual says that you don't need special tools to adjust, just turn firmly.

OK, now the questions.

How do hydraulic valve lifters work, anyway?
How should I adjust them?
Is it true that you never have to adjust these things?
How come then it doesn't work now?

Help!

eur

From: Steve.Kaess@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Steve Kaess)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Carbon Buildup in engines ( valves ? ).....
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 15:46:13 -0500

 > I saw a blurb on Motorweek a while back where a non-invasive
 > technique for removing carbon buildup was described.  This
 > kind of
 > fits into the Popular Mechanics "Gee Whiz" category, so
 > if anyone out
 > there has tried it and it worked, let us know:
 >
 > Basically, the idea is to scrub the insides of the cylinder
it works to clean the side of the intake valves in the head--ya take 
off the intake manifold and attach a dohicky to each cyl in turn...it 
was part of the bmw engine recall of the mid 80's...



Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:10312 rec.autos.vw:4405
From: jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Cleaning injectors
Date: 29 Jul 92 04:56:08 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.


>I am in the process of rebuilding the fuel injection on my
>'79 Scirocco, which has not been running in the last 5 years.
>I have a bunch of injectors which are gummed up. I have also built
>an injector cleaner/tester. My question is that what is the best 
>solvent to dissolve the gum. I am not thinking of adding it to the
>fuel, but forcing it through directly the injectors with the tester.

I use a mix of 50-50 Techron and gasoline in my cleaner.  I also heard
at the 5th annual National Z-car convention that the cleaning chemical
system sold by Nissan and used internally is very good.

Be sure to cycle the injectors while cleaning.  The motion and the vibration
helps the solvent action.  I have some PC software I wrote that will
do this and a bunch of other stuff in conjuction with a darlington 
transistor hooked to one bit on the parallel port.  Contact me if you're
interested.  There is a detailed article on how to use this software 
in the free sample issue of my new magazine, Performance Engineering.
See my sig for how to get one.

John
-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC               |Interested in high performance mobility?  
Performance Engineering Magazine (TM) |
Marietta, Ga                         |Interested in high tech and computers? 
jgd@dixie.com                        |Write me about PE Magazine
Need Usenet public Access in Atlanta?  Write Me for info on Dixie.com.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: j_zrinski@fennel.cc.uwa.oz.au
Subject: TH400 Ratio`s 1:1,,any others?!
Organization: University of Western Australia
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 1992 09:18:27 GMT


 
 Anybody out there no if it is possible to get a different top gear
ratio for an TH400, what they are(?:1 ratio), and where to get it??

A friend has a Nissan Patrol G60 and has done a conversion to a 
Chevy 307 & TH400,,,,,,,,,the Nissan has 4.1:1 diffs and a better
cruising RPM is what he is after,,,,,if no easilly/avaliable changes
can be made to the TH400,,, any sugestions?????(Overdrive boxes,splitter 
boxes or changes to the H/L tranfer case{Nissan mated to TH400} mayby??!!)



P.S. I`m not sure but is ther such thing as a G60 4WD in America/etc,
P.P.S. 1978 Medium wheel base 4WD(original motor: 4.2 Pushrod inline Petrol
six cyl, 3 speed no 1,R syncros)

Please E-Mail to the above adress  ;-)

Any help and sugestions apreciated.

Justin...
From: pwu@amalfi.ai.mit.edu (Peng Wu)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Problems with a Mazda MX6
Date: 28 Jul 92 17:24:06 GMT
In-reply-to: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk's message of 25 Jul 92 22:29:02 GMT

Once a mechanic said one of the ball-joints on my car needed to be replaced.
It turned out to be a loose lock nut on a steeling tie rod.  The mechanic was
the only AAA recommended in town.
From: livneh@oliver.rutgers.edu (Shai Livneh)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: window tint/antique questions
Date: 27 Jul 92 17:05:53 GMT
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

I have 2 questions for the friendly netters:

1)What are the laws in New Jersey for tinting car
windows - how dark can you go? Which windows are
legal and which aren't

2)Again, in Jersey, what are the laws for a QQ
antique license plate? I heard you can only drive
those cars to and from shows.

			Thanks in advance

			Shai Livneh
			Rutgers University
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech