HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: sci.aquaria

Having recently experienced an increase in our discretionary spending
money, we began browsing through a recent FAMA to see what we could
buy.  The ad for the Sandpoint "Solution Ground" caught our eye.  I
had talked to Andrew at Sandpoint last August about induced voltage in
tanks and its supposed bad influence on fish.  We figured "what the
heck, let's try it".  After all, at the very worst, grounding the
water probably wouldn't hurt anything.

We have noticed a general decline in the appearence of a couple of the
discus in our 100g Almost Optimum Aquarium (AOA) in the last six
months.  We mysteriously lost a large German Brillant Turquoise female
about 2 months ago (maybe due to a pH fluctuation).  Two other
Turquoise have looked kind of dark recently.  One of them has
developed cloudy eyes.  All the discus once had nice red eyes but have
all lost the redness.  Lastly, the Wattley Turquoise (the one in the
picture in AFM) has had a mild case of fin rot for a few months.

In the last year, we have not changed anything in the way of feeding
or maintenance.  Water quality, pH and hardness have not changed.
Plants are still flourishing.  In other words, nothing that we can
measure would lead one to believe a problem exists.  Measuring the
induced voltage in the tank with a high impedance voltmeter (from
Radio Shack) showed an AC voltage of 0.5 volts.

We bought two solution grounds from Pet Warehouse for about $35 each.
These look like pH electrodes and have a titanium rod for contact with
the water.  You could easily make one out of stainless steel for under
a buck.  There is a 10' long lead with a spade lug on the end that is
connected to a convenient ground (we used the cover plate screw on an
electric outlet).  We put one in the 100g tank described above and one
in our 90g Optimum Aquarium (the "Super Show Tank").  The four discus
in the SST have shown no signs of any problems since the tank was set
up last October.  The SST had 0.4 volts measured.  Both tanks now
measure 0.0 VAC with the grounds connected.

The Solution Ground has been in both tanks for about 1 month.  We have
noticed no change in the SST, so at least nothing bad happened.

However, we have noticed a marked improvement in the AOA.  All three
adult discus have gotten their color back and seem much more active.
The Wattley Turquoise female and a Striated Red male are displaying
courtship behavior (which hasn't happened since the other female
died).  The red color has returned to all the discus' eyes and the
cloudy eyes of the one have cleared up.  Also, in the month we have
had the grounds, the fins of the Wattley discus have begun growing
back and are almost back to normal.  

This was not a scientific experiment with controls or anything.  I was
very skeptical about the whole thing until we saw the overall
improvements in the fishes appearance and behavior.  I'm not saying
that the Solution Ground did the trick, but we are planning on buying
two more for our other tanks based on the observed changes.

We are not associated with Sandpoint, but we are satisfied customers.

---------
George (and Karla) Booth

Newsgroups: sci.aquaria
From: mstephens.520@postman.gsfc.nasa.gov (mark stephens)
Subject: Re: Weight of fishtanks
Organization: nasa/gsfc
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 92 13:48:10 GMT

Don't know what your loading factor is (typicall in lbs per sq foot).
One thing to make sure of is which way the floor joists run.  You want
to position the tank perpendicular to them so that the weight is 
spread out over as many joists as is possible.  Take a look at your
hardwood flooring:  it should also be perpendicular to the joists.  It
may also be at an angle or you may have parket floors, so any independent
way of checking joist position would be good.  One other way is to 
look for a load bearing wall (typically NOT the gabel end).  
Joists will be perpendicular to this.  

Your tank will weight about 400 lbs (water alone for the 45 is 360).  Not
a light weight, but not above what a floor should be able to support.
Please note that I am NOT a structural engineer.

            mark

In article <BryzK4.8Kw@xrtll.uucp>, lfin@xrtll.uucp (Lynda Fincham) writes:
> 
> 
> I'm wondering if anyone has any information about the weights that floors are
> made to take safely. I'd like to set up a (what I call) large tank, but I live
> on the fourth floor of an old apartment building. I'll give you some details,
> and maybe someone can either help me, or direct me to someone/something that
> can. 
> 
> Proposed tanks:
> 33gal with 1/4" glass
> or
> 45gal with 1/2" glass
> 
> Stand:
> Steel, custom made, open stand (not made yet, a friend has one, made to
> withstand 800lbs, lifetime garantee)
> 
> Apartment:
> fourth floor (top floor)
> 1930's apartment building in upper class area
> in good condition, original hardwood floors
> the tank will be going in the living room, which has an ajoining dining room
> 
> 
> There is nothing really heavy in the living room yet, a 10gal aquarium, TV,
> stand, futon, bookshelf, etc. There are a couple of reasons I'm a little
> worried. A friend of mine recently set up her 33gal in the living room of her
> old house (same area). The floor was NOT level when she set it up (higher at
> one end by about an inch), but now it is. Second concern, there is quite a
> noticeble sag in the floor in one of the bedrooms in my apt. 
> 
> I'm wondering if the weight of this tank is just too much for my old floors,
> or do I have some leeway? What's the weight of water per gallon anyways?
> I know my bathtub must be about 50gal, but that's not permanent, and it may be
> bolstered underneath. 
> 
> 
> Please reply by email, or by posting if it's general interest.
> 
> Lynda Fincham
> lfin@xrtll.uucp
> gaea@zooid.guild.org
> 
> 
> 
> 
From: booth@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (George Booth)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 16:17:29 GMT
Subject: Re: [F] Sorry about "my" article in AFM
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
From: patton@phy.uab.edu (David Patton)
Subject: Re: New Purchased Equipment
Summary: more equipment
Keywords: food, plants
Reply-To: patton@phy.uab.edu
Organization: University of Alabama at Birmingham
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 14:36:21 GMT

Don't  forget that you can also mail order live plants and if you have an idea
of the type of fish you intend to purchase you can also mail order the food.

patton@phy.uab.edu
From: wood-smithc@vaxb.gbus.virginia.edu (Chrissi Wood-Smith)
Newsgroups: sci.aquaria
Subject: Hole in the Head Disease
Date: 31 Jul 92 13:42:14 GMT
Organization: Darden Center, University of Virginia

HELP!  I just bought two blue discus and one appears to have a small hole in 
it's head above the eye-line in the middle of it's forehead.  It is just an 
indentation and is symmetrical and clean, but I read that this is common 
amongst Discus fish. The fish are each about 2 inches in diameter --

Does anyone know the likelyhood of cure and survival?  The fish  seems ok 
now and eats, etc.  I am trying to find a cure and have researched all 
night -- anyboby know of a "best" treatment?

There is one more Discus in the tank. I understand that this may be 
contagous (sp?). ???

Thanks for any help. Chrissi.
From: drake@Autodesk.COM (Dan Drake)
Newsgroups: sci.aquaria
Subject: Re: What do freshwater eels eat ?
Date: 22 Jul 92 18:09:09 GMT
Organization: Autodesk Inc., Sausalito CA, USA

tmark@cognet.ucla.edu (Terence Mark) writes:
+ Years ago I kept a 30 gallon aquarium. I had an eel that was about 6 inches
+ long, silvery brown. It was very narrow, almost ribbon shaped. It had a very
+ sharp nose. It had a tendency to stick its nose into the gravel, and then
+ with a huge push would burrow down into the gravel. It would later emerge with 
+ little more than its head poking out of the gravel.
+ 
+ Here's my question: what would an eel like this eat ? I tried putting baby
+ guppies and other fish in the tank, but none of them every disappeared.
+ This fish lived for about a year, long after I tried providing it wish fish
+ it could eat, until a friend who was caring for it lost it in the sink
+ (I'm still not sure I understand how).
+ 
+ Can someone explain this (to me long standing) mystery ?

Well, it may have found enough nourishment in the detritus on the bottom
of your tank.  Fish can get by on very little food, as the veterans in
this forum keep pointing out to us over-feeders.

If you really want these beasts to thrive, live worms seem to be the
answer.  My tiretrack eel (Mastacembalus armatus) ate quanitities of
tubifex worms, till the net.wisdom convinced me to stop buying those
filthy things, and more recently has been eating whiteworms.  It will
also swim up to the surface to grab frozen brine shrimp.  Grew from
about 4 inches to 13 inches on this regimen, so it seems to work.

That long, sharp nose is designed, apparently, to jam into crevices that
worms hide in.  Mine has trained himself to swim up to a baster in which
I'm holding some worms, and suck them right out.  Although hand-feeding
a fish is a pretty waste of time, this process is amusing to watch, and
it also assures that the eel gets most of the worms, while a few get
loose to be caught by the liveliest of the other fishes in the tank.

--
Dan Drake
drake@Autodesk.com

All theory is against the freedom of the will; all experience for it.
                                        --Samuel Johnson
Newsgroups: sci.aquaria
From: bj368@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Mike E. Romano)
Subject: Indoor Fish Cafe
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio, (USA)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 92 02:11:49 GMT


I am very interested in raising fish which are to be eaten, not just
looked at, in an indoor aquarium set up.
I have been told that the tilapia species are the hardiest, cheapest
to feed, etc. and quite tasty.
Does anyone have any information or heard of anyone actually raising
fish to eat indoors, or next best, in a small backyard set up?
thanks.
-- 
            Mike Romano     Univ. Calif. Berkeley
Newsgroups: sci.aquaria
From: tech@cs.ucf.edu (Tony Travaglini)
Subject: Re: New Purchased Equipment
Organization: University of Central Florida, Orlando
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 16:46:56 GMT

>In article <1992Jul28.225624.15674@shearson.com> stu@mbsdev24.shearson.com ( Stuart Bernstein ) writes:
>>    Last month,  I posted an article regarding buying new equipment from
>>    fish stores.  An overall response recommended the mail order catalogs
>>    which I did.  Well I have purchased the following so far:

I'm not sure if you're the guy or not, but your original list included
Novaqua. I meant to mail you and tell you to avoid that stuff because
it has phosphates in it. In concentrations that are not trivial. Use
Stress Coat or Amquel or something else.  You won't regret it.

Tony Travaglini
tech@cs.ucf.edu


Newsgroups: sci.aquaria,alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: bednarek@bonfire (Dennis Bednarek Mfg 4-6971)
Subject: Re: Fresh Water Angel Fish Eggs
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 92 05:16:07 GMT

Several years ago I had a part-time business going in my basement sppawning
and raising Angles.  To give you some ideas on how I did it here is a summary.

First I used almost all 30 gallon tanks, with live plants (Amazon Swords)
   and only two air stones per tank. No Filter.
Second I kept only one pair in a tank and moved them into a fresh tank as
   soon as the fry became free swimming.
Third initial food I used was infisoria (spelling?) and baby brine. Adults 
   were feed tetramin special breeders mix (I bought it in 15Lb pails) twice
   a day and live tubifix (spelling?) or adult brine shrimp on alternate
   days.
Fourth on the average first few spawn were non-productive thin as the pair
  gets older the yield increases to a point of 200 to 300 sellable fish per
  spawn.  Time between spawns ranged from 30 to 45 days.
Five. To develop the fry I kept them in the nursery untill they were dime
  size. Then spread them out to 75 per 30 gallon tank untill they were a 
  little larger than a nickle.  Finally I gave them at least 1 gallon per 
  fish untill they were ready for sale (half dollar size) about six months.

As you can see it can easily expand to the point that you don't have a
basement left after you get about 6 good producing pairs going.
--
Newsgroups: sci.aquaria
From: pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Paul A Prior)
Subject: Re: New Purchased Equipment
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 01:34:20 GMT

In article <1992Jul28.225624.15674@shearson.com> stu@mbsdev24.shearson.com ( Stuart Bernstein ) writes:
>    Last month,  I posted an article regarding buying new equipment from
>    fish stores.  An overall response recommended the mail order catalogs
>    which I did.  Well I have purchased the following so far:
>
>    (For Community Aquarium)
>
>    55 gallon Tank  (48 X 13 X 20)  | Both of these from fish store
>    Stand                           |
>
>    Perfecto Hood and Lights        | Mail order
>

For fake plants this will certainly be all right.  For live plants 
you will need to add more lights.

>
>    Eheim Canister (2215) filter    | Mail order
>    Visa Therm Heater - 2  150 W    | Mail order
>    Testing Equipment (pH, dH, nitrate, etc.. | Mail order
>    Gravel & Tank Accessories	    | Fish Store
>    Plants			    | Fish Store
>    Python 			    | Mail Order
>
>    I have decided not to buy the UGF.  I plan on doing water changes 
>    approx. every two weeks.
>
>    
>    Questions:
>
>    1. Will the Canister Filter provide enough aeration ?.  Plants are fake
>							    for now !!


Depends on how heavily you stock the tank.  I would direct the flow along
the top of the tank so that you get surface  agitation, which will maximize
oxygen exchange.

>    
>    2. Have I forgotten any other piece of major equipment ?

Fish? <G>  Make sure you have the shut off valves for you eheim.

>       
>    4. What set ups are most recommended with Canister filters.

Since you are going w/o UGF, make sure to siphon the gravel well to 
keep from getting anaerobic spots.  Fine gravel is preferred to keep
chunks of food and waste from sifting down into the gravel.  The
eheim is a very good filter and I think you will be very happy with
it.  You didn't specifiy what you are filling it with, so perhaps you
ordered it "packed."  Put the heaters at opposite ends of the tank
and make sure they get good circulation around them.

Get some driftwood pieces mail order if you are going to get a pleco.

Have fun!

-- 
--------pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu----(614) 621-8240----------------
Paul A. Prior    Ban anchors, not reef tanks   "With friends like this,   
3rd year medical student		          who needs anemones?"
The Ohio State U. College of Medicine   Tobacco Kills- Please don't smoke!
From: booth@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (George Booth)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 14:46:54 GMT
Subject: [F] Sorry about "my" article in AFM
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
Newsgroups: sci.aquaria

I just received my September AFM and turned with anticipation to part
2 of my article.  Holy Hack Job, Batman, I've Been Edited!  I don't
know why, but all the text relating to the theory and set up of the
filtration, CO2 injection, substrate, hardness, pH and fertilization
was deleted and the maintenance information was substituted in its
place.  Our course, the four figures that support the text were
published without captions or anything!  There shouldn't be any
confusion because of that, will there :-)

I wonder if it was dropped due to the letter from some North Carolina
bozo (page 4) complaining about confusion in the last, admittedly bad,
article concerning water chemistry.

Or perhaps there was too much information that the editor thought was
"untrue or likely to mislead readers" (editorial, page 2).  Well, I
guess if the majority of the readers are bozos, that could very well
be true.  It wouldn't be too difficult to get a complex "optimum
aquarium" screwed up by taking shortcuts and interpreting the info to
suit the budget.

Well, at least the net.readers and [hopefully] the members of the AGA
had the chance to read all the words and form their own opinions.

-------
George


Newsgroups: sci.aquaria
From: wood-smithc@vaxb.gbus.virginia.edu (Chrissi Wood-Smith)
Subject: A sick Angel
Summary: lost equilibrium
Keywords: Angel
Organization: Darden Center, University of Virginia
Distribution: all
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 16:36:37 GMT

Newsgroups: sci.aquaria
From: sonny@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (joseph.j.de rosa)
Subject: Re: What do freshwater eels eat ?
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 11:26:53 GMT

In article <1992Jul21.053354.225@cognet.ucla.edu> tmark@cognet.ucla.edu (Terence Mark) writes:
>Years ago I kept a 30 gallon aquarium. I had an eel that was about 6 inches
>long, silvery brown. It was very narrow, almost ribbon shaped. It had a very
>sharp nose. It had a tendency to stick its nose into the gravel, and then
>with a huge push would burrow down into the gravel. It would later emerge with 
>little more than its head poking out of the gravel.
>
One of the spiney eels, no doubt. 
>
>Here's my question: what would an eel like this eat ? I tried putting baby
>guppies and other fish in the tank, but none of them every disappeared.
>This fish lived for about a year, long after I tried providing it wish fish
>it could eat, until a friend who was caring for it lost it in the sink
>(I'm still not sure I understand how).
>
>Can someone explain this (to me long standing) mystery ?

I would guess that the eel somehow worked its way down the drain, and was
never really 'lost', just somewhat "misplaced".

;-)
Joe DeRosa
jderosa@attmail.att.com
From: rclark@alcor.concordia.ca (Richard Clark)
Newsgroups: sci.aquaria
Subject: Re: New Purchased Equipment
Date: 31 Jul 92 15:32:24 GMT
Organization: Concordia University, Montreal, Quebec

In article <1992Jul29.164656.1311@cs.ucf.edu> tech@cs.ucf.edu (Tony Travaglini) writes:


>I meant to mail you and tell you to avoid that stuff (Novaqua) because
>it has phosphates in it. In concentrations that are not trivial. Use
>Stress Coat or Amquel or something else.  You won't regret it.

I believe that Novaqua, used in the concentration recommended on the
bottle, will produce a concentration of about 5ppm phosphate in the
aquarium.  Since "Stress Coat" (I believe) also claims to buffer the
pH, it probably has phosphates in it too.  Amquel does not detoxify
heavy metals, Novaqua is recommended on the Amquel bottle for that.

rick



-- 
rick clark   (rclark@alcor.concordia.ca)
             (CIS 70272,3270)
Newsgroups: sci.aquaria
From: stu@mbsdev24.shearson.com ( Stuart Bernstein )
Subject: New Purchased Equipment
Organization: Lehman Brothers
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 22:56:24 GMT

    Last month,  I posted an article regarding buying new equipment from
    fish stores.  An overall response recommended the mail order catalogs
    which I did.  Well I have purchased the following so far:

    (For Community Aquarium)

    55 gallon Tank  (48 X 13 X 20)  | Both of these from fish store
    Stand                           |

    Perfecto Hood and Lights        | Mail order


    Eheim Canister (2215) filter    | Mail order
    Visa Therm Heater - 2  150 W    | Mail order

    Testing Equipment (pH, dH, nitrate, etc.. | Mail order
    
    Gravel & Tank Accessories	    | Fish Store
    
    Plants			    | Fish Store
    Python 			    | Mail Order

    I have decided not to buy the UGF.  I plan on doing water changes 
    approx. every two weeks.

    
    Questions:

    1. Will the Canister Filter provide enough aeration ?.  Plants are fake
							    for now !!
    
    2. Have I forgotten any other piece of major equipment ?
       
    I feel as if I am missing things.

    3. Is this a good set up ?  

    4. What set ups are most recommended with Canister filters.


     I appreciate any suggestions !!!    Thank you  Everyone 

    


     
Newsgroups: sci.aquaria
From: jrk@cs.columbia.edu (John R. Kender)
Subject: Re: Another what is it.
Organization: Columbia University Department of Computer Science
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 1992 05:20:07 GMT

In article <20JUL199218463927@mpx2.lampf.lanl.gov> wbetts@mpx2.lampf.lanl.gov (Betts, Wayne J.) writes:
>there have been these mysterious little spots (hundreds perhaps) on the
>glass, flat rocks, and on a few plant leaves.  I've taken rocks with
>these things into three shops and nobody has got a clue.  
>
> 	Description:  white (maybe 1 or 2 % are tan/beige).  They are 
>less than two millimeters in diameter and are fairly hard, but slightly 
>brittle.  They are round and smooth.  They sit on flat surfaces, ie glass
>and seem to have a tiny hollow area between them and the surface.  (Imagine
>a smooth, round clam shell pressed up against the glass.)

Sounds like limpets, actually related to clams.  Harmless.  Check the
Innes book for more info.

John


Newsgroups: sci.aquaria,alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: derrick@meaddata.com (Derrick Tatem)
Subject: Fresh Water Angel Fish Eggs
Organization: Mead Data Central, Dayton OH
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 11:32:51 GMT
Distribution: na

Hello Everyone:

Yesterday Afternoon one of my Angel Fish laid several eggs on my power head,a
first time ever for me. They are in a 55gal. This morning I notice some of the
eggs were missing. I have some questions for you experts out there.

  1. How long would it take for the fries to be born?
  2. What do I feed the fries? Should I remove them from the 55 gal(fries)
  3. Any reason why some of the eggs were missing? I'm assuming the following:
      a) the parents ate some and/or some fell to the bottom of the tank.
  4. After the first laying of eggs, how long before the next batch providing
     all goes well? 

  Any answers/suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!
 
-- 
Derrick M. Tatem
Mead Data Central, Dayton, Ohio
Internet: derrick@meaddata.com
UUCP:     !uunet!meaddata!derrick
Newsgroups: sci.lang
From: bovik@eecs.nwu.edu (James Salsman)
Subject: Re: More evidence for "dilemna"
Summary: not in O.E.D. 2nd
Keywords: dilemna (for) dilemma
Organization: BRI
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 17:08:19 GMT

In article <1992Jul21.163547.3281@athena.cs.uga.edu> mcovingt@athena.cs.uga.edu (Michael A. Covington) writes:
>Re the Toronto library catalog:  The thing to do is look at the actual
>[eight] books and see if "dilemna" is printed on them, or if it was a typing
>error when the data was put in the catalog.
>
>The UGa library catalog has 
>  "Corporate social responsiveness: the modern dilemna [sic]"
>and
>  "The death of Ramon Gonzalez: the modern agricultural dilemna"
>
>Does the OED list "dilemna"?

No, and there is no such spelling under the head "dilemma," which
gives the etymology roughly as ancient Latin from Greek di (two) +
lemma (proposition.)  [Courtesy OX2/pat server.]

This is the kind of thing I would love to see tracked down.  I have
no guess, and the clues are weak.

-- 
:James Salsman
::Bovik Research