HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang)
Subject: Re: Shocks and Exhaust on GTI
Organization: Brandeis University
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 18:46:45 GMT

I'm under the impression that Koni is an american company and the
shocks are made in the US.  However, they are very stiff.  More stiff
than the Bilsteins.  Bilsteins on my BMW 2002 were a perfect blend of
stiffness and handling, but I don't know for the Rabbit.  THey would
have been my damper of choice, except that APS or Autotech were
offering Konis and springs for a great price.  The springs probably
also add to my dental problems.

I've had Konis for 2yrs now and they haven't burst yet.  I don't
really expect that they will either, Koni having one of the oldest and
best reputations for shocks.  Isn't it true that drawn tubing has to
be thinner (than welded) in order to draw properly?

I've also heard that the GTI exhaust manifold is really bad.  I would
believe it just by looking at its design.  The trick with exhaust
manifolds is making sure that the replacement is designed carefully
enough to fit the car properly.  There's a lot of stuff that it needs
to route through (roll bars, shifter, throttle linkage) as well as
fitting the catalytic converter and the Lambda sensor.  I'm
considering upgrading the manifold also, but I have a backlog of stuff
to do.

-andy
From: ma@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: A strange problem with my VW Golf
Date: 1 Sep 92 15:57:14 MDT
Organization: Utah State University

My 86 VW Golf has this problem. When accelerating from the low gears (1st and
2nd), it hesitates. I sent to a garage which claims to be a VW specialist.
They told me that it was a fuel prepump problem, and they replaced it. Then
it was ok for a short while. Then the problem showed up again. I brought it
to a garage. They said the car need tune up and they did. Then the problem 
became less obvious for a short while. Then the problem showed up again, I
sent to the garage something else was replaced. After a short while, the 
problem comes again. One 
garage said that is the Oxygen senser which should be replaced. This time, I 
haven't send it to the garage yet. Instead, I called a few other garages. Some
says it may need some adjustment, some says something wrong with the fuel
system. And some other possibilities. And of course they all need to look at
it to be sure. Somehow, I have a feeling that the garages which did the repair
and may be others don't know exactly what the problem is. I have spent a 
couple of hundred $$. The problem is still the same. I also feel it could
be a very simply thing. If you know it, you can easily fix it. If you can't 
find it, you just simply can't do anything.

Did anybody have the similar experience (problem)?

Ma

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy)
Subject: Re: Advice on Westphalia campers needed.
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio, (USA)
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 92 15:41:55 GMT


Brad sez-
>As far as heat goes, get one with the auxillary heater (runs off the
>gasoline from the main gas tank).

and I add-
BE CAREFUL WITH THESE BABIES!  If you find a bus that already has one,
have it checked out by someone who knows about them.  Gas can make
a really big boom-boom if it is not combusted properly!

Bill
-- 
William Claspy			Case Western Reserve University
Internet- wpc@po.cwru.edu
MaBellnet- (216) 368-3595
From: hersh@expo.lcs.mit.edu (Jay Hersh)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: GTI heater Core recall
Keywords: heater core
Date: 3 Sep 92 18:22:19 GMT
Organization: X Consortium, MIT Laboratory for Computer Science

Howdy,

A while back I posted indicating I had received a recall notice
the notice said I would be informed when parts were available
at my local dealer.  I have been waiting for over two months
and have called VW twice and they continue to say that the parts
are not available yet and I will be receiving a letter.

Has anyone received notification that parts are available for
this heater core repair??

	JaH
--
Hopfen und Malz, Gott erhalts
From: bj251@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Peter E. Dinin)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: dasher/fox tranny
Date: 2 Sep 1992 00:07:45 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: bj251@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Peter E. Dinin)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc4.ins.cwru.edu


Will whoever was posting on the net a few weeks (or maybe a month) ago
about switching a dasher & fox tranny please contact me.  I lost your
adress and my tranny 'died' this evening.  I may want to try to put a
five speed into my 81 dasher diesel, which has been begging for another
gear since I bought the car.  I wonder if eating the transmission was my
car's way of making me buy it one :-).

Also, could someone confirm that the problem is the transmission.
Symptoms:
	1.  A couple weeks ago, the transmission kept 'popping' out of
	third gear.

	2.  A couple days ago, the tranny would intermittently make a 
	relatively quiet grinding sound when in second.

	3.  This morning, the tranny made that same sound intermittently
	in first gear also.

	4.  This afternoon, it was making that sound continuously in
	second and third.  Then while in one of the more unpleasant
	neighborhoods of Cleveland, first gear started grinding loud
 	enough to wake the dead when the car got to about 2 mph.  Second
	and third continued the grinding/whining sound, but fourth stayed
	ok.

Thanks in advance for any responses to this tale of woe.
 
-- 
Peter E. Dinin  bj251@cleveland.Freeet.Edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw,fl.forsale
From: achenbac@epcot.spdc.ti.com (Jeff Achenbach)
Subject: Re: WANTED:  type 1 engine
Organization: TI Semiconductor Process and Design Center
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 15:37:44 GMT

   My brother just got a '70 bus with a blown engine. Looking for a 1600
dual port in running condition or a source for a reasonably priced rebuilt
long or short block in the Dallas-Fort Worth area. Please respond by e-mail,
as I haven't had a VW for 5 years and don't read the newsgroup.

Jeff Achenbach
achenbac@epcot.spdc.ti.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu
Subject: Re: 12 Volt Conversion DONE!
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 23:36:41 GMT
Organization: University of Louisville

In article <1992Sep1.072953.4439@bb1t.monsanto.com>, bjgaed@bb1t.monsanto.com writes:
>> Oh, I almost forgot, what about the headlight relay?  I looked at 12V version
>> of my 6V relay, and they had different numbers of contacts.
> 
> I didn't have a headlight *relay*, and the headlight flasher 
> (lichthupe) was removed from the car many years ago when it was 
> brought into the country from Germany, as it is probably illegal here. 

No, I mean the relay which fires the high beams.  In my Bentley Manual (for my
'77) it is shown on the schematic as (J7- Dimmer Relay). I can't even find the
switch on my bus.  On my '77 bus and all the bugs I've seen, it's on the turn
signal lever. 

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
|pH Fred == pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu    |         "What we lack         |
|        == ..!psuvax1!ulkyvx.bitnet!pgheit01 |   in enthusiasm, we make up   |
|           University of Louisville          |         for in apathy."       |
|                Louisville, KY               |                               |
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Shocks and Exhaust on GTI
From: jan@camhpp12.mdcbbs.com (Jan Vandenbrande)
Date: 25 Aug 92 09:52:26 PDT
Organization: M&E (Division of EDS), Cypress CA

In article <1992Aug24.155436.26963@ee.rochester.edu> Mark Sirota <msirota@socrates.ee.rochester.edu> writes:
>In article <1992Aug21.204841.28577@aosg.gsf.dec.com> duane@alpha.aosg.gsf.dec.com (Andrew Duane AOSG) writes:
>> I have been told by several shops
>> to avoid the Japanese brands: Koni and Tokico (and KYB). The reason is
>> the welded tube construction. Apparently, they aren't as strong as a
>> one-piece extruded tube, and can leak or burst under heavy use.
>
>(1) Is Koni really Japanese?  I was quite sure that they are European.
>(2) Isn't it just a little silly to assume that *all* Japanese shocks use
>	the same type of construction?
>-- 
>Mark Sirota - Department of Electrical Engineering Systems Staff

1) Yes, Koni is a Dutch company. They have been around for a while too.
   I can recommend their shocks highly (adj. on ex 86 GTI) as well
   as the bone jarring but great Bilsteins.
2) True. Rumor has it that KYBs aren't that great, and that Tokico
   makes great shocks though their valving may not be to everyone's tastes
   (on VWs).

-- 
Jan

jan@camhpp12.mdcbbs.com		(work)
jan@lipari.usc.edu		(school, usually works, forwards)
From: cote@cs.ucsd.edu (Brad Cote)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Advice on Westphalia campers needed.
Date: 27 Aug 92 21:32:03 GMT

klinger@ccu.umanitoba.ca (Jorg Klinger) writes:


>  I'm interested in an older style camper, not the vanagon type.
>I had a 74 superbeetle new and had no problems but only had it for 4
>years. How does the camper stand up? I have heard that they overheat and
>are subject to crosswinds? Would it be warm enough to drive in a
>Canadian winter?  Thanks.
>                                Jorg

As far as heat goes, get one with the auxillary heater (runs off the
gasoline from the main gas tank). The standard engine heat jobbers
will freeze your tootsies even in a Southern California winter.

				Brad Cote'
				University of California, San Diego
				STARE Project
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: edg@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (edwin.g.green)
Subject: Re: sticking door handles
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 12:24:28 GMT

In article <1992Aug26.233751.13062@isc-br.isc-br.com> lenh@access.isc-br.com (Len Humbird) writes:
>In article <ILH.92Aug25144155@winnie-the-pooh.lcs.mit.edu>, ilh@lcs.mit.edu (Lee Hetherington) writes:
>> 
>> Lately, the outside door handles on my '86 GTI have started to stick.
>> By this I mean that when I squeeze the trigger, I have to squeeze
>> *really hard* to get the door latch to release.
>
>That happened to one of my '79 Rabbit doors recently. I tried WD40, bearing 
>grease, but didn't help. I think something in there bent or cracked. A new 
>one from the junk yard fixed it. I paid $10.
>

What did you get from the junk yard?  Did you find any bent or cracked parts?

My Cabriolet has the same problem on the driver's side.  I have to open the
door from the inside.
>> how to fix this before I can't open my door at all?
>
>I don't know about any VW part that helps.
>
>Len


-- 
Edwin G. Green
AT&T Bell Laboratories          Indianapolis, Indiana, USA
INH 1E-506                      317-845-3659
egg@inuxy.att.com
From: leonglaw@hpsgm2.sgp.hp.com (Lawrence Leong)
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 10:52:35 GMT
Subject: Re: Audi 85-88 info request
Organization: HP Singapore
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw

In rec.autos.vw, emd@ham.almanac.bc.ca writes:

|nicos@csa.bu.edu (Nicos Kontopoulos) writes:
|
|> In article <1992Aug20.120614.15965@lut.ac.uk> C.Wong1@lut.ac.uk (C Wong) writ
|> >it just over a year ago with 70k on the clock. It has a standard 2.3l 5 cyli
|>                                ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
|> >regards
|> >Chun
|> 
|> 
|> Are you sure about that? I always thought a gallon was something like
|> 3.785 liters...
|> 
|> 
|
|One Imperial gallon is 4.55 litres. You Yanks use smaller gallons. (Never 
|did understand why). 

So the 10gal hat will fit?  :-) :-)

lawrence
|
|
|Robert Smits            | Water? I don't need no steenking water!
|emd@ham.almanac.bc.ca   |
From: tgpt_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Tom Guptill)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: reliable cars
Date: 27 Aug 92 02:11:19 GMT
Organization: University of Rochester - Rochester, New York

In <134548@lll-winken.LLNL.GOV> ari@viipuri.nersc.gov (Ari Ollikainen) writes:

>Speaking of the EuroVan, I still wonder what bonehead thought that windows
>in the passenger compartment that open are unnecessary with the dual A/C...
>EXCEPT in the MV!


	Wonderful.  Of course Chevy does it on vans _without_ A/C.  
-- 
|Tom Guptill           | tgpt_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu  (internet)  |
|CPU Box 277445 U of R |  "    " @db1.cc.rochester.edu (alt internet) |
|Rochester, NY 14627   |  "    " @uordbv (bitnet)                     |
|(716) 274-0156        |                                              |
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: dblancha@nyx.cs.du.edu (Daniel Blanchat)
Subject: Looking for '67 Type II, '69 Type II for Sale or trade
Organization: Nyx, Public Access Unix @ U. of Denver Math/CS dept.
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 92 03:24:02 GMT

I've got a '69 type II that was converted to a camper by Sportmobile in
1971.  The engine was replaced with a remanufactured engine in 1985 (or
there abouts, I have the documentation in the van.  The engine has aprox
30k miles on it, and the van has just shy of 185k miles.  It runs well, has
few dents, and only surface rust.  I'm looking for $1600.

I'm in the market for a '67 type II transporter, in similar condition to the
above, excluding the camper equipment.  I'm looking for a daily driver that
I can slowly customize, but that doesnt require major hassles...

(I'm in North Carolina, if that helps)

Dan
--
   ____                     
 //  %/\\   Daniel Blanchat          | You and Me
((  %/  ))  chapanna@hamlet.uncg.edu | and Cassidy
 \\%___//   dblancha@nyx.cs.du.edu   |  Summer Tour '92
From: keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov (Larry Keys)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Campaign Ry "Recall"
Date: 3 Sep 92 12:52:39 GMT
Organization: National Institute of Standards & Technology


Hi again Volks,

I recieved lots of mail about the recall notice that i got in the mail.

Well, most of the questions were "What year/model does the recall include".
Unfortunately, the letter doesn't state any specific year or model.  It just
says "your automobile".

Also, owners wanted to know which engine classification my car is.  My car 
is classified as "9A" (2.0l 16v) year 1990.

The third question most asked was, "What problems did you (I) experience?".
The problem that i was experiencing was intermitent idle rev.  Often between
shifts my engine would rev as high as 3000 rpm, well let me tell you, when
you pull up to a light next to a Corvett or a Mustang GT 5.0 it can be
pretty embarrasing, but the Honda Accords... ;-/

BTW, we just had a baby girl, yesterday 9/3/92.

                                                   .              
                                                 /                
Larry                            __/    ______ /                  
keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov       /                \                 
                         _ _ _      __      _____  \------- ===   
            ---------- /  __ /    /  /    /__  __/            \   
         /            /  / ____  /  /       / /                |  
        |            / /___/  / /  /__   __/ /__              /   
        /_____       \______/  /_____ / /______/        --- ////   
             \_____           2 liter 16v       \_______/         
                                                                              
        Fahrvergnugen forever!

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu
Subject: Re: Bus rear brake adjustment- HELP!
Organization: University of Louisville
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 22:59:10 GMT

In article <1992Aug24.130251.28528@usenet.ins.cwru.edu>, wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy) writes:

> Anyhow, I need hints on what to do with these bastards.  And info on
> rebuild kits for wheel cylinders.  Also are there rebuild kits for the
> front caliper cylinders?  The seals on those are probably just as bad.
> 
> Thanks folks!
> Bill
> -- 
> William Claspy			Case Western Reserve University
> Internet- wpc@po.cwru.edu
> MaBellnet- (216) 368-3595

Don't you just hate it when that happens.  I had the EXACT problem on my '77
bus (which is for sale.  Anyone? Anyone? ) when I bought it.  What I ended up
doing was this:  First, we sprayed carb cleaner on the stars.  "It's like
WD-40, but with a little more gookie in it," my grandfather said. 

Then we took a punch and hammer and tried to tap the stars around in a circle. 
This freed them from the holder.  At no time attempt to use a brake tool
through the adjustment holes in the backing plate.  This will mangle your
backing plates like it mangled mine.I then took the stars (with their screws
still frozen in them) and clamped them, one at a time, into a vice.  Take a
long flat object (like a file with a cheater bar on it) and stick it in the
slot.  Then try twisting.  If it doesn't want to give, try giving the star some
heat from a blowtorch.  

I cleaned off the stars and screws in a wire wheel.  Then I filed off the
damage caused by the vice. Then I cleaned out the holes for mounting the stars
with a piece of emery cloth.  

Although there are rebuild kits available, I would rather get new cylinders
than risk using a cylinder that has been honed out.  I don't know about the
disk brake calipers, as mine didn't need any help beyond new pads.

Good Luck.

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
|pH Fred == pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu    |         "What we lack         |
|        == ..!psuvax1!ulkyvx.bitnet!pgheit01 |   in enthusiasm, we make up   |
|           University of Louisville          |         for in apathy."       |
|                Louisville, KY               |                               |
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
From: baw2@cunixb.cc.columbia.edu (Bruce A Weisberg)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Old bus
Keywords: 64/rot
Date: 31 Aug 92 21:41:03 GMT
Reply-To: baw2@cunixb.cc.columbia.edu (Bruce A Weisberg)
Distribution: na
Organization: Columbia University

In article <1992Aug31.203322.2438@cbnewsm.cb.att.com> ajwnet@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (andrew.j.west) writes:
>Found this and was wondering about the 
>"frame is pretty rotted".... Anybody do
>any of work like this? Is it possible or
>forget it?
>
>----------------------------------------------------------
>1964 Deluxe Bus, 21 Window, 9 passenger, Sunroof.
>Converted to 12v operation.  1969 1500cc motor built up to
>1650cc with high capacity oil pump and screw on filter.
>Frame is pretty rotted.  Body is "good".  ~160000 miles.
>I am second owner.  $1000 OBO
>----------------------------------------------------------
>
>					Andrew J. West
>					...!att!hlwpr!ajw
>					a.west@att.com
>					...201 564-2786


	This sounds okay to me, because these 21 window jobs are pretty hard to find, the older the better.  BUT-  This is very involved repair work, though the p[arts are available, and only to be undertaken by an expert.  Shop around
for someone who will do this resto work, get a price, call this dude and haggle, man, haggle.......personally, I'd want to restore it to it's original condit-
ion, engine and all  (Should be 1200 cc)

	Good luck 
	BRUCE
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: johnj@welchgate.welch.jhu.edu (John A. Johnston)
Subject: 86 Golf - losing coolant.
Organization: Johns Hopkins Univ. Welch Medical Library
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 13:54:03 GMT


A friend of mine has an 86 Golf with 82,000 miles on it.  Lately it has
been losing coolant.  The exact rate of loss is not known, but it is
about 2 liter/week.

The radiator core is not leaking onto the floor - but is scheduled in a
week or two for replacement.  The water pump is moist but doesn't
wiggle like it is worn.

A pressure check does indicate that the cooling system is losing
pressure, but not *real* fast, say over a period of 40 minutes (sorry
to be vague, but this is a second hand relay).  There were no leakes
found from this test.

Cylinder pressures range from a low of 110 to a high of 140 so it is 
likely not a head gasket (the oil has no hints of water).

There is a new thermostat in the car, and it has never overheated (eg.
the gauge has never read more than normal, mid-gauge).

So, our question is:  Where is the leak?  Any clues, or
experiences/recommendations are very much appreciated.

Thank you,
-johnj

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: garrett@Ingres.COM (QUOTE OF THE YEAR)
Subject: Intake manifold
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.4-b1  
Keywords: 
Organization: ASK Computer Systems, Ingres Product Division
Date: 3 Sep 92 01:27:32 GMT

	I have a mechanical question about a 71' VW bug.
There is a part, the best discription I can give is calling it a 
rubber grommet, that is rotting out. 
	I know that this discription will be the same for air-cooled
engines for at least two years before as well. 
	At the base of the carburator, there is a pipe that splits into a 
T and runs across the front (as you are looking at it) of the engine.
Each pipe then splits into two at the side of the engine, but before that
there is a connection that needs a rubber seal. This seal is rotted
and is allowing a vacuum leak. I've wrapped it with tape for the moment
and even went to a junk yard to get a new grommet, but I can't see how
I can replace it without removing the whole intake assembly, carburator
and all.
	Does anyone know how to replace it without making this 
a major project? Or is there a sutible substitute? 
	Can anyone understand this description?

-Garrett
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: harmon@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (harmon george jay)
Subject: I need Help with a J.C. Whitney carb !!
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1992 21:40:37 GMT

I just installed a J.C Whitney carburetor Model #73TY6744R on my 1970 VW Bug.  The car had a Solex PICT 30-2 on it when I bought it.  The Whitney carb supposedly replaces PICT 30-1,2,3 and 34 PICT-3,4 carbs.
     I recently had the intake manifold cleaned and then reinstalled it.  I put the Whitney carb on and tried to adjust volume control screw and the idle control screw.  I can (somewhat) adjust the idle but not very much.  
     The volume control makes almost no difference in the engine's performance.  The car sounds like it is about to "choke out" when it idles.  I can't get over 45 mph out of it in 4th gear.
     Does anyone know of a solution?  I am open to ANY suggestions.  Has anyone else had problems with these "universal" replacement carbs?
     A friend suggested changing my old jets for the ones on the Whitney carb --but I am not sure that I have the proper jets to begin with.  Does anyone know the proper sizes of jets for a 1970/1600cc with a 30 PICT-2?  Any other ideas -- all are welcome.
     Send any mail to harmon@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu
		    Thanks,
		    George Harmon

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw