HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: brian@cbmvax.commodore.com (Brian Fennimore)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Question about PRO and CONS of FHA versus CONVENTIONAL loan
Date: 8 Apr 92 16:31:42 GMT
Reply-To: brian@cbmvax.commodore.com (Brian Fennimore)
Distribution: misc
Organization: Commodore, West Chester, PA

In article <1992Apr06.180612.63160@yuma.acns.colostate.edu> peterson@CS.ColoState.EDU (james peterson) writes:
>In article <30034@cbmvax.commodore.com> augi@cbmvax.commodore.com (Joe Augenbraun) writes:
>>
>>FHA loans are only appropriate for people who need to make extremely low
>>down payments.  Down payments on the order of 1-2% are possible.
>>
>Golly, this is news to me. 1-2% Gracy?  Last I heard the minimum was 3%
>on amounts up $50K and 5% on amounts in excess of $50K.
>
>Correct me if I'm wrong.  (I just closed an FHA loan 5 weeks ago.)
>
>james sends
>-- 
Well, here was my scenario in 1988:

In Chester County, Pennsylvania, the limit for an FHA loan in June 1988 was
$90,000. Since the house price we bought was $92,900, all we were required to 
put down was $2900.00 because we wanted to get in with the least amount
of down payment. No mention of minimum percentages was ever mentioned to us.
So, $2900 turned out to be a 3.12% down payment.

Now the limit is $130,000.00 for the county (correct me if I'm wrong Augi).
I'm not sure what the implications are for minimums.

_Brian_

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: frank@ugly.b23a.ingr.com (Franklin Owens)
Subject: Are skylights suitable for high pitch roofs?
Organization: Intergraph Corporation
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1992 12:45:57 GMT

I am currently having a house built.  The plans calls for a skylight in
the bathroom.  However the roof pitch is 10/12 which is fairly steep.  I
have been told that because of the speepness that the skylight will look
more like a tunnel. I tend to agree with this but what do you guys think?



Thank to All
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: andre@farside.slc.mentorg.com (Andre' Hut)
Subject: Re: PVC plumbing
Organization: Mentor Graphics
Distribution: usa
Date: 13 Apr 92 16:04:52

In article <9452@wrgate.wr.tek.com> bobh@wrgate.wr.tek.com (Bob Heath) writes:
   >I am doing some remodeling on my house, adding a half-bath, relocating
   >the hot water heater and laundry room and remodeling the kitchen. In
   >the course of this work, I of course am doing a fair amount of plumbing.

   >My plan was to use 1/2" sched. 40 PVC for cold water lines and 3/4" sched.
   >40 CPVC for hot water, but I have a couple of questions. First of all, the
   >local building code allows the use of PVC for cold water, but the county
   >inspector tells me that the manufacturer won't guarantee it for use in a
   >house. (although the pipe is clearly labeled 600psi which seems more than
   >adequate to me.) It's ok for supply lines from the street to the house,
   >but indoor use is risky. Has anybody on the net had negative or positive 
   >experience with PVC in this application? I could use CPVC for both hot 
   >and cold, but it's considerably more expensive.

In some areas, PVC is not allowed.  Some people fear that the PVC will melt in
a fire, and others that it might put plumbers out of work.  There is no chance
of fire underground, so it is allowed for main-lines, sprinkler lines etc...

In my house, they put in flexible tubing to carry both the cold and hot water.
It's interesting stuff.  It's grey, about 1/2" inside diameter.  The connectors
are copper with a crimp on the outside.  It must be very easy to install.
Perhaps you can use that too.

--
-------------------------------------------------------------------
My opinions are solely my own, and do not necessarily reflect those
of my employer.

Andre' Hut       andre@slc.mentorg.com  or  utah-cs!caeco!andre
Mentor Graphics, Suite 300, 5295 South 300 West, Murray, Utah 84107
-------------------------------------------------------------------
From: sasbge@ant.unx.sas.com (Gantt Edmiston)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: urethane spray foam insulation
Date: 9 Apr 92 20:42:04 GMT
Reply-To: sasbge@ant.unx.sas.com
Organization: SAS Institute Inc.
Originator: sasbge@ant.unx.sas.com
X-Bytes: 975

In article <1992Apr8.234948.4123@phx.mcd.mot.com>, fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com (Fred Christiansen) writes:
>
>I've been thinking 2x6 walls with R-19 batts plus 1" white styrofoam (R3.6?)
>with stucco over ext sheathing.  Might be able to cut out some of the up-front
>costs by going to 2x4 walls with 3" sprayed foam and stucco directly over
>the sheathing (+ felt paper).
>

If you go with 2x6 studs on the perimeter, you can space them 24" on center
instead of the 2x4/16" on center method.  Your local building codes may
vary.  The wider gap decreases the number of gaps and thus the total
"uninsulated" space.


-- 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Gantt Edmiston                         =  o     |
QA Host Systems, V416 x6091         =  _ /- _   |  "The fewer the facts,
SASnet: <sasbge@ant.unx.sas.com>   =  (_)> (_)  |   the stronger the opinion!"
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: carl@Cayman.COM (Carl Heinzl)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: how to remove wall paper glue
Date: 13 Apr 92 21:06:46 GMT
Organization: Cayman Systems Inc., Cambridge, MA
In-reply-to: matth@progress.COM's message of 7 Apr 92 17:25:38 GMT
bcc: carl


We've always just mixed Vinegar and Water, sprayed it on the
wallpaper, waited a few minutes and started stripping.

-Carl-
--
From: sheriffp@Software.Mitel.COM (Peter Sheriff)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Removing Fenceposts
Date: 9 Apr 92 12:20:52 GMT
Organization: Mitel. Kanata (Ontario). Canada.

In article <5006@tekig7.PEN.TEK.COM> thomase@tekig5.pen.tek.com writes:
>Mike,
>One method you might try to remove the posts involves using an older style
>car jack, ( the ones with the post and rachet mechanism that rides up it)
>Set the jack on some heavy boards or blocks to support it and attach a
>chain looped around the post a couple of times to the racheting head of
>the jack. It saved me from buying the come-along I would rarely use.

     The above method was one we used to remove utility poles from the
ground way back when I was an apprentice with the British Post Office
(now British Telecomm). It worked fine but we did use a pole jack which
was a bit more rugged than a bumper jack. But then a fence post is not
a utility pole either :-)

                                 Pete
Xref: sparky misc.consumers.house:6136 rec.pets.dogs:5424
From: demers@cs.ucsd.edu (David DeMers)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Electronic pest repellers?
Date: 9 Apr 92 00:37:22 GMT
Followup-To: misc.consumers.house
Organization: =CSE Dept., U.C. San Diego

My sister's company does not allow rec.* or misc.* access,
in general, so she asked me to post her question.  I do
not read these groups, so hope that I'm not disturbing
you regulars with a FAQ...

She is highly allergic.  She has just purchased a house,
and while getting ready to move in, is wondering what
sorts of things she can do to keep vermin out.  Electronic,
ultrasonic pest repellers exist and are advertised, and
she would like any advice on their worth -
do they work?
If so, is there a particular one which is recommended?

Please reply to her:
Diane DeMers		demers@mdcbbs.com


Thanks!


-- 
Dave DeMers			 ddemers@UCSD   demers@cs.ucsd.edu
Computer Science & Engineering	C-014		demers%cs@ucsd.bitnet
UC San Diego					...!ucsd!cs!demers
La Jolla, CA 92093-0114	(619) 534-0688, or -8187, FAX: (619) 534-7029
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,rec.pets.cats
From: richhg@hsv3.uucp (Rich Henderson-Gragg)
Subject: Re: Alarm systems and cats
Organization: Headland Technology
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 01:52:25 GMT

If you have pets that stay indoors while you are away the best solutions
I have seen are 
   1. confine the pets to areas where the PIR (Passive Infrared) sensors
      are not.  (My cats have no trouble finding ways to get HIGH up in
      the area.  They LIKE hi places.)
   2. Use contact sensors on likely valuables and popular drawers and
      forget about the PIR.
   3. Use contact sensors on interior doors and PIR in rooms that the
      pets are kept out of by the closed doors.  (This does require
      you to locate the pets before you leave.  Bit of a hassle)

   My personal prefernce is 2.

      -Rich-
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: chrism@hpic001.mentorg.com (Chris McCabe)
Subject: Re: INCOMPLETE FLUSHING IN A TOILET
Originator: chrism@hpic001
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 23:00:17 GMT
Organization: Mentor Graphics 
Keywords: 
Followup-To: 


In article <1014@xlnt.COM>, larry@elvis.NoSubdomain.NoDomain (Larry Pollack) writes:
|> In article <4100616@hpcc01.corp.hp.com>, freds@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Fred Saavedra) writes:
|> |> 
|> |> 
|> |> 
|> |> I had the same problem, it was a small plastic spoon stuck deep in the toilet.
|> |> I discovered the spoon by removing the toilet from the floor , turning
|> |> it over and reaching inside. What a mess. If you go this way, be sure to
|> |> buy a new wax ring before starting the job. Also, plan on getting water all
|> |> over the place. 
|> |> 
|> |> fs
|> 
|> I recently replaced two toilets. To handle the water problem, I used a synthetic
|> chamois to soak up the remaining water in the tank and bowl (a sponge or towel
|> should do nicely as well). This process was recommeded by the Home Depot
|> salesperson and I kept high and dry.
|> 

  I used a shop vac to remove the water.  I was amazed at how well it worked.
The whole bowl was sucked dry in about 3 seconds.

  -Chris
-- 
Chris McCabe   chris_mccabe@mentorg.com
    Mentor Graphics Corporation
(503) 685-7000 (w)   (503) 232-4250 (h)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: andre@farside.slc.mentorg.com (Andre' Hut)
Subject: Re: GFI question
Organization: Mentor Graphics
	<1992Apr09.143601.2042@fincomp.raidernet.com>
	<15155@optima.cs.arizona.edu>
Date: 10 Apr 92 14:45:16

In article <15155@optima.cs.arizona.edu> bweiss@cs.arizona.edu (Beth Weiss) writes:
   >ronnie@cisco.com (Ronnie B. Kon) writes:
   >>Remember that a GFI recepticle protects all recepticles further on the
   >>circuit as well as itself.

   >root@fincomp.raidernet.com (Neal McClain) writes:
   >> It does?  Are you sure?  Somehow, this doesn't seem right to me.

Yes.  GFCI's have "Line" and "Load" terminals.  The hot/neutral go into the
unit on the "Line" terminals, and the "Load" terminals are connected to
whatever devices you want protected, such as other bathroom outlets, or
other bathrooms.

   >The directions in the GFI I installed 2 weeks ago did say that.  In a
   >middle of the run GFI, power (and the returning neutral) flows
   >_through_ the GFI recepticle to other recepticles.  All of those other
   >recepticles are therefore protected.

   >This protection can be important if you are trying to:
   >   -- save money by not buying multiple GFI recepticles for a bath or
   >	 kitchen
   >   -- want to have the bathroom/kitchen lights and switches be 
   >	 GFI protected

Typically, lights/switches should be on another circuit from the outlets.
The reason for this is that if for some reason you trip the breaker on
the outlet, you won't be left standing there in the dark.  Also, there is
no need to protect lights with GFCI.  How often do you change light bulbs
while standing in a tub/sink of water?  While the light is on too?

--
-------------------------------------------------------------------
My opinions are solely my own, and do not necessarily reflect those
of my employer.

Andre' Hut       andre@slc.mentorg.com  or  utah-cs!caeco!andre
Mentor Graphics, Suite 300, 5295 South 300 West, Murray, Utah 84107
-------------------------------------------------------------------
From: mewes@decvax.UUCP (Jim Mewes)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Info needed on mulching mowers
Keywords: lawnmowers
Date: 16 Apr 92 15:07:13 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Digital Eq. Corp, Merrimack NH.

I'm considering purchasing a mulching mower that is currently on sale ($220)
at Sears.  Any recommendations/experiences concerning Sears (or other brand)
mulching mowers would be greatly appreciated.
-- 

Jim Mewes                               mewes@selway.umt.edu
ULTRIX Administration                   University of Montana
From: brbreffle@icaen.uiowa.edu (Barry Ronald Breffle)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Wallpapering over paneling?
Keywords: Sanding wallpaper glue..
Date: 13 Apr 92 21:58:24 GMT
Organization: Iowa Computer Aided Engineering Network, University of Iowa

I live in a `74 mobile home, and my girlfriend and I are getting tired
of all of the dark paneling which covers the walls.  I was wondering
if it is possible to wall paper right over the top of the paneling, and
if so what type of preparations need to be carried out before wall
papering.  Will the grooves in the paneling show through?  If anyone
has been through this before, please post, or e-mail me.
Thanks,
Barry
brbreffle@icaen.uiowa.edu
From: sasbge@unx.sas.com (Gantt Edmiston)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: GFI question
Date: 8 Apr 92 03:01:18 GMT
Article-I.D.: ant.sasbge.702702078
    <1992Apr7.185455.9365@csl.sri.com>
Organization: SAS Institute Inc.
X-Bytes: 1680

ronnie@cisco.com (Ronnie B. Kon) writes:

>In article <92083.183250WALMSLEC@QUCDN.QueensU.CA>, WALMSLEC@QUCDN.QueensU.CA (Chris Walmsley) writes:
>|> Simple question:  Does anybody make split GFI recepticles that can
>|> be used for Kitchen counter locations where each half of a standard
>|> recepticle is wired independently.  It would seem a perfect location
>|> to have a GFI (near a sink) but most appliance recepticles are wired
>|> so that each side has a fuse/breaker, and all the GFIs I have seen
>|> can not be used for that arrangment.

>Remember that a GFI recepticle protects all recepticles further on the
>circuit as well as itself.  You can also buy a GFI circuit breaker (although
>these are expensive--about $35 - $50 last time I checked).

>				Ronnie

Seems to me that you *could* wire the GFI in another location and then
wire a standard receptacle in the location where you want the "special"
case.  Wire one half of the duplex to the GFI and the other half to non-GFI
filtered power.  You might need to buy one of those special computer style
"isolated ground" duplex receptacles that have two ground lugs on each side
of the duplex.  The ground lug is integral to the GFI for proper operation,
required by the NEC on the other and generally a good idea.  I think Hubbell
makes such a beast.


--
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Gantt Edmiston                         =  o     |
QA Host Systems, V416 x6091         =  _ /- _   |  "The fewer the facts,
SASnet: <sasbge@ant.unx.sas.com>   =  (_)> (_)  |   the stronger the opinion!"
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: thundt@dis9001.shearson.com (Thomas M. Hundt)
Subject: Re: Refinishing Bathtubs??
Organization: Lehman Brothers
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 22:07:14 GMT
From: ostroff@Oswego.EDU (Boyd Ostroff)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Seeking info on 'mechanics lien' on house
Date: 7 Apr 92 15:16:19 GMT
Reply-To: ostroff@oswego.Oswego.EDU (Boyd Ostroff)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Instructional Computing Center, SUNY at Oswego, Oswego, NY

In article <MACRAKIS.92Apr6195201@next4.osf.org> macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis) writes:

>"Received, from OWNER, $XX, which is what I was owed as of DATE,
>for work done to PROPERTY.  I waive any right to put a lien on that
>property for work done on or before DATE."

Doesn't sound like that would cover the situation the previous poster 
described. In your example, the CONTRACTOR is the one who waives his right
to put a lien on your property.  The scenario described previously involved
another party - a vendor that supplied materials to the contractor and
was not paid.  Since these materials would now be in the homeowner's 
possession, the VENDOR may have the right to place a mechanic's lien on
the property until such time as he receives payment.

If I was concerned, I'd ask a lawyer to review such a contract (and since
I belong to a legal plan through my union, the cost involved would
be minimal).  Otherwise you pays your money, you takes your chance....

.............................................................................
....Boyd Ostroff / Technical Director / SUNY Oswego Department of Theatre....
...............Voice: (315) 341-2987 /  Fax: (315) 341-3394..................
..............ostroff@oswego.oswego.edu / ostroff@cboard.UUCP................
From: marks@ssdevo.enet.dec.com (Randy Marks)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: concrete slab over sprinkler lines
Date: 12 Apr 92 16:25:26 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Digital Equipment Corp. - Colorado Springs

I'd like to have a concrete slab installed for a dog kennel.
Problem is, the water lines for the underground sprinkler system
all originate on that side of the house.  Thus, I'd end up with
the first 10' or 15' of each sprinkler zone supply line underneath
the concrete.  If something goes wrong with the sprinkler lines,
I'd have a big maintenance headache.   Just wondering if any of
you misc.consumers.house readers have ideas on how to solve this
problem with minimal expense.

|     house                |
----------------------------
           | | 
===========+ +==================   sprinkler lines


<------ proposed slab ----->
      extending up to house



	Randy Marks 

(UUCP)	                {decvax,ucbvax,allegra}!decwrl!ssdevo.enet!marks
(INTERNET)              marks@ssdevo.enet.dec.com
(domain-based INTERNET) marks%ssdevo.enet@decwrl.dec.com
..........................................................................
	"No man's life, liberty, or property is safe
	while the legislature is in session."
..........................................................................
From: ars@n5pph007.uucp (Andrew Snedeker)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Question about PRO and CONS of FHA versus CONVENTIONAL loan
Date: 13 Apr 92 11:51:26 GMT
Reply-To: ars@n5pph007.UUCP (Andrew Snedeker)
Distribution: misc
Organization: Northern Telecom,  Research Triangle Park,  North Carolina

In article <1992Apr06.180612.63160@yuma.acns.colostate.edu> peterson@CS.ColoState.EDU (james peterson) writes:
>In article <30034@cbmvax.commodore.com> augi@cbmvax.commodore.com (Joe Augenbraun) writes:
>>FHA loans are only appropriate for people who need to make extremely low
>>down payments.  Down payments on the order of 1-2% are possible.
>
>Golly, this is news to me. 1-2% Gracy?  Last I heard the minimum was 3%
>on amounts up $50K and 5% on amounts in excess of $50K.
>
>Correct me if I'm wrong.  (I just closed an FHA loan 5 weeks ago.)
>
I'm pretty sure it's 3% on the first $25K and 5% on the excess above $25K...
Also rates and/or points are generally better for FHA versus conventional
loans...

Correct me if I'm wrong.  (We're planning on closing on an FHA loan in 6 weeks)

Andrew Snedeker
From: moody@e4.ius.cs.cmu.edu (James Moody)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Brick walk tips/advice needed
Date: 13 Apr 92 11:40:15 GMT
Reply-To: moody@cs.cmu.edu
Organization: CMU Vision and Autonomous Systems Center

I want to replace our concrete front walk with a brick walkway.  I don't
want to use interlocking paving stone, rather I want to use bricks I 
already have, and I plan to mortar them together.  After thinking about
this for awhile it seems that the best way to build a good walk would be
to put in a concrete base first, then mount the bricks on top.

None of my building/remodelling books discuss this, and I will be visiting 
my local library, but I wanted to get advice and wisdom from anyone on the
net who's built a brick walk or patio before.

I've looked at alot of sidewalks over the past year, so I know the brick
option can be very nicely done as well as suit the age of the neighborhood.
(Not that post-WWII red brick plans are anything architecturally significant,
but it's still a really nice and attractive neighborhood).

I know that the interlocking paving stone systems (e.g., Omnistone) can 
make a very neat walkway, but to me that pattern just screams "the 80's"
like a lava-lamp screams "the 60's".

Oh, yeah, there will be three or four steps at the beginning of the walk.
How does that complicate things?

-- 
James E. Moody Jr.	The Robotics Institute		(412) 268-2847
			Carnegie Mellon (University)	      CMU-BUGS
			Schenley Park
moody@cs.cmu.edu	Pittsburgh, PA 15213
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Heat pumps
Date: 16 Apr 92 01:42:32 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <FF17iB1w161w@cdthq.UUCP> gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston) writes:
>clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis) writes:
>> This is completely wrong.  A heat pump acts just like a refrigerator -
>> the compressor and heat exchange coils produce considerably higher
>> temperatures than ambient around the external radiator system.  Ie:
>> the air temperature coming out of a heat pump is typically around 120F.
>> Even when the ambient temperature where the external coils is less than
>> 40F.

>You're absolutly right, Chris. The only hazards with this type of 
>heating system are repairmen digging up pipes in the yard ("What's
>that hanging off the backhoe?") and your ground developing permafrost.

>Of the two, I'd worry about the second a lot more. Once a system
>like that freezes up, it takes a long time to thaw out. A few
>seasons, perhaps.

Up 'ere, the trenches are at least 6 feet down (part of the reason it's
so expensive) - 2 feet below frost line.  Probably fairly hard to accidentally
hit one.  Besides, presumably the repairmen are coming at the owner's request,
so the owner can warn 'em.

Secondly, if it freezes, unlikely as it is at 6 feet, just run it as
AC for a while.  That'll fix it.  But I would think freezeup would
be pretty unlikely - the bed would be specially prepared for heat
transfer, and I don't think the heat pump can suck hard enough to
freeze a hundred feet or more of pipe in intimate, probably damp,
ground contact.

>I'd rather drill a well or two and pump the water from one thru
>a heat exchanger and back down, preferrably into the second well.
>Lots more heat energy available, smaller and easier to maintain,
>and possibly more efficient.

Yes, these do sound more effective.  They are quite popular around here.
Trick is to hit water *soon* - then it won't cost so much.

People with lakes or rivers nearby have it made.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca