From: stewe@cs.tu-berlin.de (Stephan Wenger)
Subject: Re: Climbing Matterhorn
Organization: Technical University of Berlin, Germany
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 20:02:31 GMT

I have climbed Matterhorn three times and hope to prevent the starting flame
ware by this article.

In article <1992Sep14.181036.3471@news.mentorg.com> bill_wright@mentorg.com writes:
>This is not accurate and I thought I would clear up things.  I have climbed
>this route and it sounds like Rob has not, but I am not sure.  Guides
>usually start around 3:30 to 4 a.m. and most people do NOT get in front of
>the guides.
Most parties start from Hoerlihuette, that they reach the Solvayhuette at
the first daylight. This needs something about 3 hours, according to the
conditions and your acclimatisation. So, in mid september, guides start at
4 a.m., in mid august 2.30 or so. Note that Matterhorn is usually climbed
from the begin of august until the end of september via the Hoernligrat.
The number of guided parties seems to be a function of weekday and
weather. On weekend there are much more people and much less guided parties
on the normal way.

>For one the route finding is complex and very difficult in the
>dark.  It is more efficient to try and follow the guides.  The guides are
>extremely fast and it is difficult to keep up with them even when they
>are guiding weaker climbers than you.  Rock fall certainly is a danger on
>this route.
Statements on complexity of routes are relativ, and I think, someone who
has done the north face of Matterhorn will find the Hoernligrat an easy
walk. Most people, who try it, do not! 

>
>There is no aluminum sidewalk on this route that I saw or have heard anyone
>who has done the route talk about.
Such a thing was (in 1990) on the easiest way from Italy, which in
Germany is called Liongrat.

>There are some fixed ropes on the
>steep sections (some vertical.)  From the hut it is 4000 complex feet of
>most scrambling, but the top will be mixed rock and snow the anchors are not
>very good, the rock is loose, the ridge very exposed, and you must return
>the same way you go up.  People who call this route a "walk up" have, 
>invariably not been up it.  Under ideal conditions it probably isn't too bad,
>but no hiker will make it up this mountain safely without a guide. 
Absolut true. t has to be mentioned, that a lot of parties, who tried
Matterhorn on any way, dont reach the top. This holds for guided and un-
guided parties.
>
>|> Personally, we hiked in the 12km from Zermatt to do the a north face
>|> route but cut our climb short after getting involved in a rescue. (he
>|> didn't make it, killed by stonefall). The scene at the Matterhorn made
>|> me swear off Switzerland forever.It reminded me of DisneyWorld. There
>|> are many beautiful mountains in the Alps to climb. For a real
>|> experience I would recommend one of them instead. I'll never
>|> understand the lull of the Matterhorn.
>By hiking instead of taking the cable car you saved yourself at most two
>hours of hiking.  The cable car takes you about halfway to the hut.  Most
>people attempt the North Face from the Hornli Hut.

Note, that he talked about A north face. There is more than one interesting
north face around Zermatt...
  If you want to get away
>from the crowded scene at the Matterhorn do one of three things:
>
>	1.) Climb in shakey weather (it worked for us).  Only two other
>	parties on the route that day.  Guided ones.
>
>	2.) Climb a different route.  Sounds like you attempted this.  Hard
>	to believe crowds drove you away from the North Face.
The Liongrat is a little bit difficulter than the Hoernligrat and
also more dangerous. I cannot recommend it. For evereyone, who is able to
go a UIAA IV in rock and 55 degree ice, I strongly recomend the Zmuttgrat.
All other routes at the Matterhorn are extreme tours and dangerous as well.

>
>	3.) Climb a different mountain as you suggest.  Yes, there are many
>	other great mountains in the Alps, but let me help you to understand
>	why people want to climb the Matterhorn:
>
>		a.) It is without a doubt one of the most beautiful mountains
>		in the world
>
>		b.) It is easily accessible.
>
>		c.) It has a tremendous mountaineering history.
>
and, maybe most important:
	d.) you can tell everyone about it, because the Matterhorn is
            known all over the world.

Please  ignore my terrible English.

Stephan Wenger   stewe cs.tu-berlin.de