HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: wesf@boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii)
Subject: Re: Insurance Advice for Muscle Cars
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 18:17:00 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

Paul Gordon  x3856 (paul@hagar.tdd.sj.nec.com) wrote:

: In article <Bvv9vH.M8w@mail.boi.hp.com> wesf@boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii) writes:
: >: I recommend staying away from state farm.  Recently my brother hit a lady who
: >: ran a red light in our 65 stang.  State farm gave us $2200 for the totaled 
: >: car.  It happened to be an all original, one owner (my dad) Mustang.  They
      (stuff omitted)
: >Apparently, the vehicle was insured as a '65 Mustang, plain Jane, average
: >miles, average condition, and for a car with that age, it's perceived value
: >is indeed LOW.  What needed to have been done was to insure it under STATE
: >FARM'S Antique/Collectors category which does provide better coverage.  There
: >are a few restrictions though.  It is intended for occasional use/recreational
: >use only (like to shows and such), mileage limits apply and it will cost you
: >more.  
: 
:   If the other driver was at fault why are you not dealing with her insurance
: company or suing her individually? The insured value is an issue between you
: and your company and has nothing to do with the value assessed if another
: drivers insurance is paying.
: 

I'm just figuring that the other driver's insurance tried to settle with
State Farm for the price of a "normal" '65 Mustang.  Since it was not 
insured at the higher "collectors" rate, then State Farm is only obligated
to collect the value (for their own business and stockholders) that the 
vehicle was insured for.  They certainly are not going to out of their way
to collect more money on something that wasn't insured for more to start 
with. 

I'm not sure what method "everyday people" can get reasonable results from 
insurance companies directly.  Suing the other party is certainly an option. 
For the plaintiff, the hard question to answer is "if the car was worth 
that much, then why wasn't it insured as such?."

Wes Fujii

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Wes Fujii               *           JAPANESE BUSINESS MOTTO           *
* Boise, Idaho            *        You can buy anything you want        *
* wesf@hpdmm12.boi.hp.com *             with a lot of money             *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: cls@chas.cadence.com (Charlie Seddon)
Subject: Re: Cold Idling Problem Due to Damp Weather
Keywords: Cold Idling, Damp Weather
Organization: Cadence Design Systems
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 17:23:30 GMT

Had similiar problem with '82 310.  Besides handy can of wire drier (silicon
spray), replaced wires.  Seems that small cracks in wire insulation led to
arcing.  Cold weather leads to condensation, causing same symptoms as damp 
weather.

-Charlie
From: karen@berkp.uadv.uci.edu (Karen Latora)
Subject: Re: Mustang mailing list address
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Organization: University Advancement, University of Calif., Irvine
Distribution: na
Date: 14 Oct 92 17:19:06 GMT

In article <1992Oct12.001304.28354@athena.mit.edu> formula@athena.mit.edu (Ronald R. Duff Jr.) writes:


>       Could someone E-mail me the E-mail address of the mustang mailing
>list?
>        Thanks in advance,
>                               Ron
>--
>Address: Ronald R. Duff Jr.         Phone: (508)842-2293 (Home)
>         29 Lamplighter Drive              (617)253-1652 (Work)(MIT room 6-332)
>         Shrewsbury, MA 01545    Internet: formula@athena.mit.edu


I didn't know there was such a list.  Can someone e-mail me the address also.

Thanks!!!!
From: blang@cbacc.cba.uga.edu (Brett Lang)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: THE CLUB (that prevention thing)!  Worth it or not?
Date: 13 Oct 92 16:57:44 GMT
Organization: Terry College of Business, University of Georgia

Hey world!!!

After watching these commercials for what seems like forever, I've finally 
noticed something....Cities like Pittsburgh, Philly, and DC seem to have 
these things (THE CLUB) on about 75% of the cars parked everywhere.  Yet, in 
other cities (like Atlanta) their use is minimal.  Are these things worth 
the $40 a pop (or $50 in the case of The Ultra-Club)?  

If they are worth it, does the different lock (a prong instead of a standard 
key) make The Ultra-Club worth the extra $10? (I know there's a $500 
insurance difference too, but that seems like it wouldn't be worth paying 
any money for).  Are there any other differences between the two?

Do crooks see The Club as an enticement to break into a car?  Do they take 
a "Hah!  He thinks his car is safe, but I'll show him" attitude?  Or does it 
really prevent theft?  Thanks for any insights!!!!!!!!!!!!!
From: ujmli@memstvx1.memst.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Engine additives....which is best? Slick 50,...
Date: 9 Oct 92 11:44:31 -0600
Organization: Memphis State University

In article <Bvu4Dw.83v@news.cso.uiuc.edu>, sabg2063@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Scott A. Butzin) writes:
> djm48887@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Daniel J. Moisson) writes:
> 
>>    I have been seeing many more engine additives other than 
>>Slick 50 now a days.  I was wondering if anyone has heard which one
>>is really the best.  I just saw some add on TV about DuraLube that
>>looked very convincing.  I think I have seen one from STP too?
>>Help!!  I need advice before I throw $25 in 1 quart of something!
> 
> Here's some advice for all you people who think you need Slick 50,
> DuraLube, et al.  Change you oil and filter every 3000 miles, more
> in the winter if you live in the north, use a quality oil and filter,
> and forget the $25 can of garbage.
> 
> Scott A. Butzin
> Automotive Systems Lab
> University of Illinois at Urbana/Champaign
> 
> (Obviously my opinion, not the University's)  
> 

Has anyone gotton good results from using the oil additives? That is, for
someone who changes the oil every 3k.

Jason
From: jslee@nrtc.nrtc.northrop.com (John Lee <jslee>)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Petro Jelly on terminals
Date: 12 Oct 92 23:39:38 GMT
Reply-To: jslee@nrtc.nrtc.northrop.com (John Lee)
Distribution: na

>  This is a good way to make SURE your car won't start.  The
>  petroleum jelly (or Vaseline) is an excellent insulator.  Even if
>  you just smear it over the connections, the heat will melt it and
>  it will penetrate between the post and the cabling.  A very thin
>  coating is enough to totally interrupt current flow.

	I used to use wheel bearing grease until my vehicles (GM)
went to side-terminal arrangments, which do not corrode. I've never
heard of grease being an insulator or to be one of any significance;
if you check your taillight and other light sockets you may well
find a little shot of white grease in there, presumably to fight
water, which DOES corrode.
JSLee
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: pebi@aem.umn.edu (Peter A. Bidian)
Subject: Re: Two articles on seat belts
Organization: University of Minnesota
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 13:19:44 GMT

essbaum@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (Alexander Essbaum) writes:

>In article <5489@balrog.ctron.com>, smith@ctron.com (Larry Smith) writes:
>|> In article <1basouINN6l1@armory.centerline.com>, jimf@centerline.com (Jim Frost) writes:


>just curious, but: why should air bags be optional based on a driver's safety
>concern/opinion and seatbelts be required?  why not have seatbelts optional?
>are there statistics to show that my not wearing a belt will affect others?
>(ie. secondary collisions, etc.)  if not, i say the government has no business
>trying to protect me from myself.

Yes, it will. If you get badly injured w/o seatbelts vs. w/ seatbelts
the insurance pays more money for you... and all the rest of us pick up the
tab.

Peter


		                                                               
===============================================================================
Peter Bidian					     Internet: pebi@aem.umn.edu
Dept. of Aerospace Eng.				     Bitnet:    AE02022@UMNACVX
University of Minnesota				     phone:      (612) 625-1346
===============================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: epc1@quads.uchicago.edu (Merlin)
Subject: Best type of Oil? (Re: Engine additives)
Reply-To: epc1@midway.uchicago.edu
Organization: University of Chicago Computing Organizations
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 13:45:15 GMT

In article <Bvu4Dw.83v@news.cso.uiuc.edu> sabg2063@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Scott A. Butzin) writes:
>djm48887@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Daniel J. Moisson) writes:
>
>>    I have been seeing many more engine additives other than 
>>Slick 50 now a days.  I was wondering if anyone has heard which one
>>is really the best.  I just saw some add on TV about DuraLube that
>>looked very convincing.  I think I have seen one from STP too?
>>Help!!  I need advice before I throw $25 in 1 quart of something!
>
>Here's some advice for all you people who think you need Slick 50,
>DuraLube, et al.  Change you oil and filter every 3000 miles, more
>in the winter if you live in the north, use a quality oil and filter,
>and forget the $25 can of garbage.
>

So what is the best type of oil and filter.  Mobil?
Is natural better than synthetic?  When would someone use synthetic over
natural?
What type of oil is best for high performance engines?

I know this has been rehashed several times before but I'd like some 
opinions.












-- 
En Pum Cho					
University of Chicago Class of 1994
math & economics major
epc1@midway.uchicago.edu
From: shyguy@ocf.berkeley.edu (David S. Shy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: GM Credit Card
Date: 7 Oct 92 08:59:12 GMT
Organization: U.C. Berkeley Open Computing Facility
NNTP-Posting-Host: sandstorm.berkeley.edu

In article <BvqGs6.44x@news.cso.uiuc.edu> djm48887@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Daniel J. Moisson) writes:
>I just got a letter back from GM's bank and I was not approved to
>get the MasterCard although I was Pre-Approved!!!!  They said I
>don't make enough $ being a student!  Way to go GM!  I was just
>trying to help our countries automakers by using their card.  Now
>I am glad I got rid of that GM car!!
>  

Well, since I'm also a poor college student just
barely making it by from all the fee increases
they've been having, I guess I shouldn't even
waste the $.29 to mail in my "pre-approved" GM
mastercard form.....

can i sue them for false advertisment if i get
turned down also?

btw:  a few weeks by, there were a spur amount of people who said that
	they have purchased/ordered the '93 Ford Probe.... to those of
	you, how's the initial quality and initial satisfaction?


david shy
shyguy@ocf.berkeley.edu
From: abochann@cisco.com (Alex Bochannek)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Why not a Taurus SHO Wagon??
Date: 13 Oct 92 13:51:10 GMT
Organization: cisco Systems, Incorporated

> >My feeling on it is that it would hurt the overall SHO image. For the same
> >reasons you don't take the Mustang 5.0 platform and make a wagon out of it,
> >or put the M5 motor in the 5 series wagon, you don't want to spread the
> >SHO name in cars whose purposes generally stray from the hi-po sedan
> >market.

FYI: There is indeed a BMW M5 touring (wagon). Drives like a dream. Not to 
mention the Aston Martin Virage Shooting Break. Two door wagon!

-- 
Alex Bochannek                                   TAC   : +32 2 643 26-30
Technical Support Analyst                        Direct: +32 2 643 26-38
Cisco Systems International S.A.                 Fax   : +32 2 643 26-27
250 avenue Louise, 8th Floor                     RFC822: abochann@cisco.com
1050 Brussels, Belgium
From: jim@mwhhlaw (James P. Cavanaugh III)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: stainproofing seats & carpeting ?
Date: 8 Oct 92 12:38:29 GMT
Organization: Martin Wade Hartley & Hollingsworth

In article <STXTNT.92Oct6115033@rs733.GSFC.NASA.Gov>  
stxtnt@rs733.GSFC.NASA.Gov (Nigel Tzeng) writes:
> In article <92279.53297.6310550@LMSC5.IS.LMSC.LOCKHEED.COM>  
6310550@LMSC5.IS.LMSC.LOCKHEED.COM writes:
 
> I just bought a new car as well and the dealer told us to simply run
> out and buy some cans of Scotchguard.  The floormats were easy but I
> haven't tried the seats yet.  The problem is evidently that spraying
> Scotchguard on vinyl is a bad idea (it bubbles).  There is some sort
> of protective foam yo can spray on vinyl first but I don't know the
> name of the product.  
> Nigel
> --
> Nigel Tzeng

	Pardon me for asking a really stupid question, but why would  
anyone need to scotchguard vinyl?

Jim Cavanaugh
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: virgo@metter.fmpmis.metter.com (Paul Virgo)
Subject: This Altima/Stanza - Infiniti J30 thing ain't gonna work....
Summary: I'm happy that it isn't replacing the Maxima...
Keywords: WhyWHYWHY??!
Organization: Metters Industries, Inc.
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 17:28:59 GMT


Well, I read about the Altima/Stanza thing and I could think of was--'Boy! Are
the Infinti J30 owners gonna be upset!!!'

Many of you may already know that the Altima is basically the J30 downgraded
(or the other way around,if ya wanna have at it that way)...

Now this did okay for the ES300/Camry crowd--because the Cmary was
considered such a great car. BUT, the Stanza has never been as well
appreciated for it's low-powered engine(which could thrash REAL loud at
high revs)as well as a few other minor irritants. So, I dunno---I've seen
three in different colors--did nuthin' for me--and I really like Nissan
(Can't wait to see the redesigned Maxima)...

curious virgo
-- 

curious virgo
Metters Industries
Arlington, VA 22202
Xref: sparky rec.autos:23598 rec.autos.tech:13731
From: trudel@athos.rutgers.edu (Jonathan)
Newsgroups: rec.autos,rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: I need advice on '82 and '84 Porsche 928's
Date: 8 Oct 92 14:54:53 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

winders@aux.support.apple.com (Scott Winders) writes:

>You can save a lot of money by taking a 928 to a third-party mechanic.


Not Necessarily - my brother's friends own a Porsche-only repair shop
and will often refuse to work on 928s.  They are expen$ive to repair,
and a bitch to work on, from what I hear.  I'm considering buying a
944 or 924S and my brother warned me about the maintenance costs.  

>Why do people participating in this group have such negative attitudes
>towards cars like Porsches?

It's probably perception.  I think that when people sink $15-$20,000 into a
used car they expect it to not have too many flaws.  Not true for Porsches
in this range, though...
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: pedersen@aio.jsc.nasa.gov (Richard Pedersen)
Subject: Re: Mustang GT vs. Mustang LX 5.0
Followup-To: rec.autos
Organization: NASA Johnson Space Center
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 13:33:22 GMT


> 
>   An 85 GT and a 88 LX are one in the same other than the 88 have more torque and
>  
>  HP. The 88 also has mass air sensors and stock 3.08 gears. I think the 85 had
> 
>  mid 2 gearing. 
> 
> 
>   -----
>   scott

There are quite a few subtle differences between the 85's and the 88's.  

First, the '85 does not have fuel injection and has less HP and torque.  

The '85 also has smaller front brakes and the smaller 7.5" rear end versus
the 88's 8.8" rear end.  3.08 gears were an option for '88 Mustangs with
5-speeds.  I don't know if they were available in '85.  2.73 gears are
"stock."  (3.27 gears were an option with the auto. trans.)

Other differences between the '85 and '88 are the body (nose and rear
windows), the interior (dash, console, rear speaker placement, etc.) and of
course, the third brake light.  

Richard Pedersen
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: sharen@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com (Sharen A. Rund)
Subject: Re: ingnorant question...
Organization: Lockheed Missiles and Space Co.
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 92 15:03:08 GMT

In article <1992Oct14.201020.21727@viewlogic.com> brad@buck.viewlogic.com (Bradford Kellogg) writes:
>
>|> In article 1bgk57INNql2@agate.berkeley.edu, shyguy@ocf.berkeley.edu (David S. Shy) writes:
>|> >
>|> >Why is it that in places where it snows, that salt is spread over it?  
>|> >I realize that it prevents the snow from forming, but how?
>|> >
>Salt is white, so when the snowflakes see white stuff on the road, they 
>are fooled into thinking there is snow already there, and don't form any 
>more of it.

take an ice cube, pour some salt on it, watch what happens....

actually salt is mixed with sand to melt the snow and ice that forms
when the snow melts and night time comes and the melted snow turns
to ice - the sand is to help keep you from sliding all over the road -
there are some chemicals out that some states are trying to see if
it works better (or as good as) snow and doesn't do the road damage
that salt does

BTW - the only ignorant (or dumb) question is the one you don't ask....

-- 
________________       __        ________________   "They that can give up
\_________      \     /_ \      /      _________/  essential liberty to 
 \_________      \_____/  \____/      _________/  obtain temporary safety
  \___________________      __________________/  deserve neither liberty 
                     /______\                   nor safety."  
ALL disclaimers apply ....                           --Benjamin Franklin
	  
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: goudreau@batman.rtp.dg.com (Bob Goudreau)
Subject: Re: Right hand drive cars
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 92 14:58:23 GMT
Organization: Data General Corporation, RTP, NC

In article <1992Oct11.222014.24392@iecc.cambridge.ma.us> johnl@iecc.cambridge.ma.us (John R. Levine) writes:
>
> No kidding.  In the U.S. Virgin Islands, one drives on the left, a
> relic of pre-1917 Danish driving practice.

I believe that the latter comment is false.  I asked a Dane I know
about this, and she said that Denmark has always driven on the right
(unlike Norway and Sweden).  A Caribbean travel book I've read says
that the population of the USVI got to vote on which side of the road
they preferred shortly after the islands' purchase by the US; they
supposedly picked the left to be more like their fellow Carribean
Anglophones (I guess that not many residents were still Danish-speakers
by 1917).

> All the cards are regular left-hand drive U.S. models, and the
> driver has really lousy vision.  In the British Virgin Islands,
> about two miles away, they drive on the left, but use right-hand
> drive cars.

This is not completely true either.  There is also a significant
number of US market cars (with left-side steering wheel) in the BVI.

----------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Goudreau			Data General Corporation
goudreau@dg-rtp.dg.com		62 Alexander Drive	
+1 919 248 6231			Research Triangle Park, NC  27709, USA
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: atovorni@engr.UVic.CA (Andreas  Tovornik)
Subject: Re: Exotic Cars
Reply-To: atovorni@engr.UVic.CA
Organization: University of Victoria, Victoria, BC, Canada
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 92 07:49:16 GMT



Saw an Aston Martin today. Gave the driver the thumbs up.

Andy
From: awds_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (ClarkKent)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Price of a New NISSAN ALTIMA ???
Date: 13 Oct 92 14:20:50 GMT
Organization: University of Rochester - Rochester, New York

In <mac1.718962853@Ra.MsState.Edu> mac1@Ra.MsState.Edu (Mubashir Cheema) writes:



>  Well the ad said it was very affordable. Well how 
>  much is it ? I too would like to know if it fits my
>  budget ?


According to the new car issue of Road & Track, the price of a new
Altima ranges from around 15,500$ to 19,000$
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: maynard@convex.com (Mark Maynard)
Subject: Re: how to repair headliner?
Organization: CONVEX Computer Corporation, Richardson, Tx., USA
Distribution: rec.auto
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 19:26:53 GMT
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by a user at CONVEX Computer
              Corp. The opinions expressed are those of the user and
              not necessarily those of CONVEX.

In article <BRENNAN.92Oct10200819@yosemite.hal.com> brennan@hal.com (Dave Brennan) writes:
>I've got an '85 300ZX and the headliner came unglued.  I tried to fix with
>spray on glue, but that didn't work well at all.  

     Yeah, that won't work because of...

>So I've removed the thin
>particle board-like thing the headliner was attached to and removed the
>old headliner and cleaned off the foamy stuff that was left stuck to it.
     that nasty "foamy stuff."  Ya done good to this point.

>Now I need to know is where to get the replacement material and what to
>use to attach it.  I would have brought somewhere to get it fixed, but
>I called around and they told me it would cost about $80, so I figured it
>would interesting to do it myself.

     $80 dollars sounds like the low end to me, but Dallas prices
     may be higher.  I bought material at a wholesale auto upholstery
     place (here in Dallas) and used 3M adheseive (much superior to
     other brands).  Total for my LTD Wagon was about $45.  Just
     remember:  Let your fingers do the walking when you look for
     the material and look for mom-n-pop operations.  Good luck!

     Mark
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Touch-up paint
From: erkamp@JANUS.ARC.AB.CA (Bob Erkamp)
Date: 6 Oct 92 11:31:45 -0700
Reply-To: erkamp@JANUS.ARC.AB.CA
Organization: Alberta Research Council

In article <2290039@hpldsla.sid.hp.com>, tonya@hpldsla.sid.hp.com (Tony Arnerich) writes:
>ejhupper@rs6000.cmp.ilstu.edu (Eric Huppertz) writes:
>
>> 1:  What do I use to strip the wax off my car without
>> damage to the paint?
>
>I've successfully used Ivory Liquid dish detergent to get really nasty
>stuff like road tar off car paint, with zero apparent damage to the
>paint. Perhaps it'll also get wax off (after all, wax is made up of
>hydrocarbons, just like the tar). Dry the bare metal immediately.
>
>> 2:  What do I do about the couple chip marks with a
>> little rust? (if anything)
>
>Your car has now been innoculated with car cancer. Get the rust off!
>Some touch-up paint bottles come with a stainless steel wire brush
>built into the cap, but in my experience it's awfully difficult to
>use without severely scratching the surrounding paint area.
>

This is easy to rectify. Go to your nearest body shop and tell them what you 
want to do. They have a special acid that removes rust and will not affect the 
paint (it's about as powerful as vinegar). I forget the actual acid but I got a 
bottle from them no charge (it came in a touch up paint container with a small 
brush). I am assuming that there is just minor rust.

Bob
From: hhtra@usho21.hou281.chevron.com (T.M.Haddock)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Japanese Names  Was Re: Canadian names for U.S. Cars
Date: 12 Oct 92 16:57:02 GMT
Organization: Chevron

In article <ldc9t4INNm9m@spim.mti.sgi.com>, yhmok@luke.mti.sgi.com (Yeuk-Hai -Shark- Mok) writes:
|> In article <1992Oct9.165102@usho21.hou281.chevron.com>, hhtra@usho21.hou281.chevron.com (T.M.Haddock) writes:
|> |> 
|> |>  When I was stationed in Japan in 1977, I found that:
|> |> 
|> |>     Datsun 240,260,280 z's were called "Fairlady".
|> 
|> 	Nissan 3000ZX is still called Fairlady Z in Japan
|> |> 
|> |>     Datsun wasn't "Datsun" they were "Nissan".
|> |> 
|> |>     BTW  Nissan means - masculine, brother, boy
|> |>          Nassan means - feminine, sister, girl
|> 
|> 	Nissan (The car maker) means 'made in Japan' or 'Japanese made'
|> and I'm not joking.

  Gee...  the story I was told was that Nissan got it's start building
  trucks and chose that name for "macho" reasons.

  So why, did they use DATSUN here.  Easier to say?
Newsgroups: rec.autos