HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: blackb@spot.colorado.edu (Barbara Black)
Subject: Kuda squash
Organization: University of Colorado
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 18:42:54 GMT

A friend of mine just gave me a kuda squash and he's got lots more acomin'.
 Since this is the first time he's grown them, he's wondering about how big
he should let them grow and how they should be prepared for eating.  Any
harvesting hints will be appreciated, too.  Are they as prolific as
zucchni?

To save the net $$$$, you can answer via internet e-mail,
blackb@spot.colorado.edu

Thanks

Barbara
Zone 4/5, in Boulder, Colorado (over a mile high)


Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: kenney@hsi.com (Brian Kenney)
Subject: Re: New Gardening Software
Organization: 3M Health Information Systems, Wallingford, CT
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 20:43:02 GMT


There is also a new program for the Mac called "Sprout!".  I've seen
it for sale in MacWarehouse.  Here's the blurb:

	Sprout helps you plan your vegetable garden graphically
	on your Mac.  It comes with editable vegetable databases
	for seven regions, complete with information on planting
	and harvesting times, normal yields, preferred soil pH, 
	spacings for seeds, rows and plants, and cool vs. warm
	seasons.  A planting tool snaps to the correct row and
	plant spacings, then fills in the row with plant symbols.
	Rulers and guides in various scales simplify designing
	your garden.

Its from Abracadata, and it sells for $45.

(I've never tried it, so I can't say if it's decent or not)

-Bri
From: rk30+@andrew.cmu.edu (Ruth Kline)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Dog "Poop"?
Date: 14 Aug 92 12:59:11 GMT
	<3740043@hpcc01.corp.hp.com>
Organization: Records, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA

Though dog poop should not be used in vegetable gardens, it's a *great* manure
for flower gardens.  If flower gardens are strategically placed around
the yard,
it's very easy to just 'catapult' the gobs of poop with a trowel as you make
your daily rounds.  
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: archiel@sun_archielcom (Archie Lachner)
Subject: Re: Bt
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 17:30:07 GMT
Organization: mentor
Keywords: 
Followup-To: 

In article <1992Aug14.173229.6079@iscsvax.uni.edu>, klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes:
|> Archie: 
|> My mailer is having a tough time with your address.
|> 
|> >I haven't read anything here that will cause me to stop using BT.  I've never
|> >had the experience of spraying BT on a crop once and then not have that crop
|> >bothered again by the same caterpillar pests.  I guess that the BT that I've
|> >been able to obtain is not as robust as that for which you cite evidence of
|> >residual effect.  I have never observed any residual effect after spraying
|> >with BT, but it has never failed to take care of an immediate problem.
|> >
|> 
|> Nope, this was plain ol' Dipel, and two of us (a botanist and an
|> entomologist) who used it for cabbage loopers at sites 10 mi apart
|> noticed the same effect.   That was about 10 years ago.  And we were
|> both doing field work at the time, so there was plenty of opportunity
|> to compare our gardens to sites elsewhere in the state, and to native
|> plant communities.
|> 
|> Could be you're selecting for Dipel resistance?
 
I don't think so.  My experience is limited to the use of Safer brand BT, which
is a brown, syrupy liquid.  I have been using it to control imported cabbage
worms, corn ear worms, and cutworms in a 500 ft2 garden for seven years.  I have
never observed any residual effects.  I spray only those crops that are being
attacked by the pests I've listed above.  This has never failed to put an
immediate halt to the problem.  As long as I spray at the recommended interval,
I have no repeat problems.  When I stop spraying, the worms reappear.  For
example, after harvesting broccoli this spring, I left the plants for a few weeks
before I got around to composting them.  They developed a healthy crop of small
cabbage worms during that period.

This doesn't sound much like natural selection at work to me, nor do I see much
in the way of residual effect from the BT I'm using.  In summary, I have seen no
evidence of the things you have observed about BT in my seven years of "organic"
gardening. 
-- 
Archie Lachner
Mentor Graphics Corporation
Wilsonville, Oregon
archie_lachner@mentorg.com
From: gwb@cbnews.cb.att.com (gregory.blum)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Sick Sycamore Tree
Date: 12 Aug 92 21:52:57 GMT
Article-I.D.: cbnews.1992Aug12.215257.25273
Distribution: na
Organization: AT&T

Last year I purchased a new house from the builder that had a rather large
sycamore tree (about 15' or so) as part of it's original plantings.  Last
year we had a rather severe drought in this area, so I expended a lot of
effort deep-watering and fertilizing the thing.  It did not, however, look
terribly happy about things.  Since I only had a year during which the
nursery that handled the landscaping would replace and fatalities, I called
them out to look at it last fall;  they, of course, said that the tree was
fine..... just a little distressed by the drought conditions.

This year, however, the tree looks really bad.  Only the top 5 or 6 branches
leafed out at all.  The remainder of the tree is totally bare, though there
are now some suckers coming up from the bottom.  The branches with no leaves
on them are dry and brittle for about the last foot of each branch, and then
are somewhat green and pliant.

Is it still salvageable??  Should the suckers be removed?  Is there anything
helpful that I can try, or should I just cut my losses and rip the thing out?

Any suggestions gratefully accepted.....

Greg Blum
From: fr@compu.com (Fred Rump from home)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Dog "Poop"?
Date: 16 Aug 92 21:18:47 GMT
Organization: CompuData Inc.

colombo@bronco.fnal.gov writes:

>In article <3740042@hpcc01.corp.hp.com>, loftis@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Kirk Loftis) writes:
>>
>> 	I have a question about Fertilizers.  Can Dog "Poop" be used as

>All I know is that when we had a dog, the kids were responsible for
>cleaning up after it.  Well, they often didn't and where there was
>dog-dodo, the grass was greener.  But I don't know if I would eat
>something that grew in it.  ;-)

Yes, we all know about those kids and promises to keep the place clean.  :-)

But on the matter of the other, the peepee (urine for those who don't 
understand dog talk).  We have an aging 14 year old Irish Setter who tends to
go only a few steps outside, do her thing and back to the cozy house. She's a 
good dog but her urine leaves dead grass spots all over the place with nicely 
green collars around it. We've tried some of the stuff that is supposed not 
want pets to do their thing in the marked areas, but it seems to have no 
affect at all on our Penny.

The grass that is affected is merrion blue which we only seeded this spring. 
In other areas where we have zoysia, there is no problem except for nicely 
greener spotted lawn.

I don't suppose there is really anything we can do about our dog except to 
wait for her eventual demise and then no more dog. In her youthful years she 
used to love to dig the place up whenever we weren't looking. But it's been 
fun.

Fred
-- 
W. Fred Rump 	office:	   fred@COMPU.COM     'mans feet have grown/so big 
26 Warren St.   home: fred@icdi10.compu.com  that he/forgets his littleness'
Beverly, NJ. 08010                          		Don Marquis 
609-386-6846    bang:uunet!cdin-1!icdi10!fr   
Xref: sparky rec.gardens:5917 alt.california:1595
From: elefante@flash.ATC.Olivetti.Com (GUEST Luigi Elefante)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens,alt.california
Subject: HELP ME! California Sierra Redwood (Sequoia Giganteum)
Keywords: redwood, sequoia
Date: 13 Aug 92 10:54:26 GMT
Followup-To: rec.gardens

Hi,

in 1989 I bought two plants of sequoia at Big Basin Redwoods State Park;
now this plants (3 feet and 5 feet) are in my garden in Italy.
Anyone could help to find books and documentation to grow them?
If it's possible where I can order by mail books, etc.

		Thanks in advance for Your attention,

Best Regards,
Massimo Barontini
maxb@king.ICO.Olivetti.Com
From: benson@dcdwest.uucp (Peter Benson)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Harvesting Potato(e)s :-)
Date: 21 Aug 92 15:20:45 GMT
Organization: ITT Aerospace/Communications Division - West

When I harvested our red potatoes this June, some of them had an odd
metallic taste.  Does anyone have a suggestion as to what might have been
the problem?
-- 
Peter Benson, Ph.D.             | ITT Aerospace/Communications Division
phone: (619)578-3080            | 10060 Carroll Canyon Road
fax:   (619)578-5371            | San Diego, CA 92131
email: dcdwest!benson@UCSD.EDU  |
From: ajw@dcs.ed.ac.uk (Amanda Welsh)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Browm patches
Date: 21 Aug 92 14:13:54 GMT
Organization: Edinburgh University, Department of Computer Science

My Chamaecyparis Pisifera Boulevard (name copied from label -- cute little
bluish evergreen) seems to have developed a brown patch on its underside. The
ooutermost leaves seem to be ok, so you can't really see there's anything wrong
unless you look closely. The leaves don't seem to be dropping off or anything
-- just turning brown, and only on one side of the ``bush'' (it is only about
12'' high). It is potted in a ~12'' pot in coir fibre (as far as I remember)
and is on a south-facing, sheltered balcony in northern England -- I don't know
much about zones I'm afraid. I can't vouch for feeding since someone else is
looking after it for me.

Any ideas about what is wrong with it and how I can fix it?

thanks on advance,
	Mandy

-- 
Amanda Welsh, Department of Computer Science, University of Edinburgh.
(ajw@dcs.ed.ac.uk)
From: dplatt@ntg.com (Dave Platt)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: TOMATOES eaten by  SQUIRRELS!?!?!
Date: 14 Aug 92 19:33:29 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: New Technologies Group, Inc.  Palo Alto CA

>Greetings,
>
>We have a problem that we haven't been able to solve:  We have six tomato
>plants -- four Roma and two Yellow -- that are producing fairly well, with
>minimal damage from bugs.  Our problem is a rotten little squirrel that has
>really taken a liking to these things.  Every day we come home from work
>there is a mostly-eaten tomato on the railing of the deck.  This rodent
>obviously enjoys picking the choicest fruit, scurrying up to our deck, and
>munching away.  For awhile we tried leaving other food out, like a piece of
>fruit, as a diversion, but he seems to either prefer the tomato or is getting
>even fatter eating the extra.

I had problems with birds and squirrels eating up my tomatoes a couple
of years ago... they were doing some pretty serious damage.  I solved
the problem by placing a shallow saucer under a spare dripper in my
drip-irrigation system, so that there was a supply of fresh water
available to the wee beasties.  Apparently, the birds were more thirsty
than hungry, and when fresh water was available they'd drink it rather
than drilling into my ripe tomatoes for the gel inside.

-- 
Dave Platt                                                VOICE: (415) 813-8917
              Domain: dplatt@ntg.com      UUCP: ...netcomsv!ntg!dplatt
 USNAIL: New Technologies Group Inc. 2468 Embarcardero Way, Palo Alto CA 94303
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: dmiller@theory.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller)
Subject: van Bourgondien & Son
Organization: Laboratory for Computer Science, MIT
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 15:33:58 GMT


--
A. Richard & Jill A. Miller            | Miller Microcomputer Services |
InterNet: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu       | 61 Lake Shore Road            |
Voice: 508/653-6136, 9am-9pm EasternTZ | Natick, MA 01760-2099, USA    |
From: Jack.Honeycutt@f52.n105.z1.therose.pdx.com (Jack Honeycutt)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Pond Building
Date: 21 Aug 92 11:42:40 GMT

Hello Dennis!

21 Aug 92, Dennis Bednarek Mfg 4-6971 writes to All:

 DBM4> Everyone is saying butal linerrs are the best  but most expensive.
 DBM4> Could someone give me an idea on cost?  I'm concidering a 50' x 18' pond
 DBM4> in my yard and would love to get an idea on cost.  Maybe I can think
 DBM4> bigger, or maybe I'm thinking way over my budget.

In Portland Oregon, I am paying about 95 cents a sq. ft. for 60 mil which is a
bit over kill.  You can go down to as thin as 45 mil and be OK. You need enough
extra rubber to drape over the sides, and figure on 2 1/2 Ft. deep for plants
and  4- 8 ft. deep for Koi, so you need a piece bigger than 50' X 18'

For a plant pond, with a few fish at 2 1/2 ft deep, you are looking at about
$1,000.00 for EPDM.

My last pond was 35' X 16'.  Can I refer you to some good things to read before
you start?  Are you going to filter?

Call The Garden Pond BBS at 1-503-735-3074 or ask more questions and I will try
to help you.

Good Luck with you future pond!

Jack
From: kla@karen.webo.dg.com (Karen Plaskon)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Split Tomatoes
Date: 20 Aug 92 13:32:17 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: NSDD, Data General Corp.

Hi.  I have a small container of tomato plants growing on my patio.
In general they're doing pretty well, but they tend to split just
about the time they're looking ready to pick.  I like to wait until
they're pretty ripe before picking them.  Any suggestions as to how to
keep them from splitting?  Please post responses to me directly, thanx.
--

--  Karen

------------------------------------------------------------------------
Karen L. Plaskon                        | karen_plaskon@dg.com 
Data General Corp.                      |
Network Systems Development Division    |
Open Network Systems Development        |
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: mma@thumper.bellcore.com (Mary Ma)
Subject: Re: African Violets
Reply-To: mma@thumper.bellcore.com (Mary Ma)
Organization: Bellcore MRE
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 92 15:23:14 GMT

	I have another African-violet related question:  Can anyone tell
me when's the best time and how to split my overgrowing plants?  I had
tried splitting the crowns but the results didn't live too long.  I have 
to oversize ones that are not blooming flowers -- don't want to kill these.
Thanks in advance,
mary
From: elefante@flash.ATC.Olivetti.Com (GUEST Luigi Elefante)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: HELP ME! California Redwood
Keywords: sequoia, redwood
Date: 14 Aug 92 11:24:09 GMT

Thanks everybody for the advices,

but I've another question:
my plants are grown in big pots, now I'd like to plant them in the soil..
I think the best period seems october before snow because I'll plant
in a locality 26 feet high on Italian Alps.
I'd like to know book titles about the argument.

Could anyone help me?

Best Regards,

Massimo Barontini
ITALY: maxb@king.ICO.Olivetti.Com
USA: elefante@flash.ATC.Olivetti.Com
From: bbeer@milton.u.washington.edu (Bob Beer)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: when do harvest garlic
Date: 21 Aug 92 19:12:19 GMT
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle

In article <1992Aug21.144851.11329@lmpsbbs.comm.mot.com> vittallo@ssd.comm.mot.com (John Vittallo) writes:
>I planted garlic this year for the first time.  They have thin grass like
>leaves. They have been in the ground for about 4 months.  How do I know when `
>to pick them.

If you want dry garlic heads, wait until the leaves die down (dry up) and then 
pull them.  

But you can also eat garlic in the "green onion" stage, when it is very mild, 
either fresh as you would scallions, or in cooking, and also at about every
stage in between.  It has a wonderful fresh taste unlike the mature heads.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: yvonne@hydra.maths.unsw.EDU.AU (Yvonne Edwards)
Subject: Re: Harvesting Potato(e)s :-)
Organization: UNSW, Sydney, Australia
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 23:56:24 GMT

In article <168481125C.MWORKMAN@vm.cc.purdue.edu> MWORKMAN@vm.cc.purdue.edu writes:
>My husband and I experimented this spring and planted a few pieces of
>potatoes to see if they would grow.  Well now we have about 5
>plants that seem to be thriving.  I was wondering when we should
>dig them up.

Hi Maggie,

My father was the last of a long line of potato growers and
childhood memories tell me that if you want to harvest the 
potatoes at their biggest and best, wait until the tops shrivel,
die and go brown. If you want to harvest them as "new" potatoes,
the timing is probably a calculation involving no. of weeks after
planting, average rainfall over the growing period, pH of the soil
and maybe phases of the moon come into it to. Then again it might
be just one of those things farmers have gut-feelings about.
Perhaps the trial and error method of digging at a distance of say, 
30-40 cms from the centre of the plant down about 30 cms for just 1 
potato at weekly intervals(after the flowers have finished) will
give you an idea of how they develop and, just think, next year you
will be an expert! Oh, and most important, after you harvest them,
keep them in the dark as light will encourage them to develop
green patches. If they do develop green patches DONT EAT THEM,
as the will be poisonous. Won't kill you straight away - and some
authorities (like the local green-grocer) will say not harmful at
all but while there's doubt ... .

Good luck
Yvonne
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                    Yvonne Edwards
      _--_|\        UNSW, Sydney, Australia                                    
     /      \                                   
     \_.--._/   e-mail  
           v    yvonne@hydra.maths.unsw.edu.au      y.edwards@unsw.edu.au                                                    
               'Never cut what can be untied'   -   H. Jackson Brown
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                    Yvonne Edwards
     _--_|\         UNSW, Sydney, Australia                                    
    /      \
From: wightman@earvax.waisman.wisc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: RE: cover crops / ""green manure""
Date: 21 Aug 92 19:03:54 GMT
Organization: Waisman Center, University of Wisconsin-Madison

Dan Marchok asked if any of us had experiences with cover crops such as
winter rye/vetch mixes. I have. I used cover crops for one whole gardening
season in an effort to make our hard clay soil more manageable: planted
rye/vetch first thing in spring, and then 2 crops of buckwheat after that.\
It worked! My only complaint was that the rye/vetch got quite tall, and
tended to wrap around my tiller when tilling under. Next time I will mow
it first, then till. The buckwheat tilled under with few problems. This
added enormous quantities of organic matter to the soil, and not only did
it not come up again, but since it choked out ALL weeds while it was growing,
the general weed population in the garden is significantly diminished. I
am sold on cover crops! As this year's season draws to a close (it'll be
fall soon here in the upper midwest) I'm already planning on the cover crop
I'll plant after the vegies are in. Rye/vetch I think, since I think it will
grow more before the frost, and then maybe even come up a little in the
spring before I till.  Try it, Dan...you'll never go back.

Fred Wightman
wightman@waisman.wisc.edu
ADD/EDIT
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: maoh@phyast.nhn.uoknor.edu (Maureen O'Halloran)
Subject: Bugs on vinca
Summary: White bugs (eggs?) on vinca plant.
Keywords: bugs,vinca
Organization: Engineering Computer Network, University of Oklahoma, Norman, OK, USA
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 03:38:08 GMT

I have white bugs or eggs? on my vinca groundcover.  They are littlee
rod-shaped things on on the underside and along the center of many of
the leaves.  The leaves themselves are spotted with yellow splotches.
Little means very tiny about 1 mm?  Its not mealy bugs, or at least
not the kind I sometimes get on my houseplants.

Should I panic or just leave them alone?  I hosed off the vinca with
water, but that doesn't clean off most of them.  The plants don't look
that unhealthy, no fallen leaves or drooping.  Actually the yellow
splotches are not unattractive.  I've had small patches of yellow in
previous years, but not noticed the bugs before.  We had a very mild
winter this year (in Oklahoma) and the vinca didn't die back hardly at
all.  Should  I just assume that a harder winter will kill off enough
of the bugs this year?

I have a hose end sprayer.  What should I put in it if I want to hose
them off with soapy water?  (Diluted soap or detergent presumably, but
how much of what kind?)

Also does anyone know anything about Cottonwood Borers (giant yellow
and black beetles from outer space).  What's their life cycle? Is
there any thing I should do at certain times of year to protect my
Cottonwood trees?  I've only seen one Borer, which may have wandered
in from somewhere else, because my trees look very healthy.

Thanks, Maureen
From: Ecology Center Fund <ecologycntr@igc.apc.org>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Date: 21 Aug 92 08:37 PDT
Subject: Re: Info on self-watering pots
Nf-ID: #R:hpfcso.fc.hp.com:9880033:cdp:1453300078:000:554
Nf-From: cdp.UUCP!ecologycntr    Aug 21 08:37:00 1992


I've used these pots professionally for years.

Their only useful application is in commercial spaces where the plants are
"serviced" on a regular schedule, where a very hot (or very cold) day will
dry out the potting soil, with no one around to water the plant until the
next scheduled service appointment.  In other words, they help most
houseplants die more slowly than they would through simple neglect.  The plants
will die, though, eventually.

If you're around enough to water when the plant needs it, don't spend
your money on these pots.

chris
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Source for Hollys (zone 6)
From: pmisra@desire.wright.edu
Date: 12 Aug 92 11:26:04 EST
Organization: Wright State University 

Can someone please point me to a reasonable (in terms of price) source
of Hollys (Ilex -------) that are hardy in zone 6 (Dayton, OH). I know
about Wayside gardens but I find their prices to a little on the steep
side especially because I am planning on buying several plants and can
not afford approx. $20 a plant!!

Thanks for any help. E-mail or postings will be fine.

Pradeep Misra
pmisra@desire.wright.edu
pmisra@valhalla.cs.wright.edu

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: dprjdg@inetg1.ARCO.COM (John Grasham)
Subject: Re: pressure treated lumber
Organization: ARCO Oil and Gas Company
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 13:56:58 GMT

>(George Vandenberghe) writes:
>|> Is it dangerous to use pressure treated lumber (lumber treated with
>|> copper arsenate) in a raised garden bed.  I plan on growing lettuce
>|> in the bed and use the 4x4 sections for borders and walls.
>|> 
>|> 
>
>It is at least strongly suspected that such lumber treatments leach into
the >soil
>and are absorbed by plants in the vicinity.  Lumber treated with chromium,
>copper,
>and arsenic (usually marked with the letters "CCA") is probably not the
best
>thing to use around plants that you intend to eat.
>
>This subject was covered at some length in a recent issue of Organic
Gardening.
>I don't remember the issue, but perhaps someone else who reads this will
be >able
>to provide more information.  The article contained a recipe for a
homemade >wood
>preservative developed by the US Forestry Service that is non-toxic.  Use
of
>lumber treated with borax derivatives was also mentioned as a non-toxic
>alternative to CCA-treated lumber.
>-- 
>Archie Lachner

I read this article in Organic Gardening with some alarm until I realized
that virtually every piece of "evidence" they sited was anecdotal.  The
"hard" numbers from actual scientific studies that supported the safety
of the treated lumber were denounced because they came from the EPA.  This
reaction is typical of O.G.'s philosophy.  I am a subscriber of the
magazine because it has great articles about vegetable gardening, but I
try
to take what it says about environmental issues with a grain of
(non-arsenic)
salt.

John G.