From: dannmann@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Daniel Harley Wagner)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Setting up a darkroom...
Date: 16 Nov 1992 17:40:46 GMT
Organization: Computing Services Division, University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: 129.89.7.4
Summary: (help!)
Keywords: fogging, developers, darkroom, old enlargers
Originator: dannmann@csd4.csd.uwm.edu

Howdy, networld.  I just finished making purchases to round out a darkroom
at my home.  Now I have some questions about how to go about starting
working in it.

I purchased a used Opemus IIa enlarger, made in Czechoslovakia, probably
before I was born.  (judging from the yellowing of the warranty and the
style of the typography..)  This enlarger seems to have been set up to
enlarge 2.25 x 2.25 negatives, which might have suited when it was new, but
causes me to have a minor headache.  While the negative carrier has glass
plates in it to hold a 35mm negative with, the lens isn't exactly suited to
larger enlargements. (With the head at the top of the pole, I can MAYBE make
a little smaller than an 8x10 enlargement, with no room for cropping.) The
lens is currently a 75mm lens.
Unfortunately, I do not have the dimensions of the bayonet at hand right
now, but does anyone know if I can buy a smaller lens for this enlarger?
(has anyone HEARD of it?)  Also, somewhere along the line before I purchased
it, someone made a different lensboard for it, but no lens.  Could I just
purchase a 50-55mm lens that fits the new mount and attach it to the
enlarger?  Or would I have to worry about the different focal lengths?  (if
so, would it just be a simple fix, or would I have to whip out the tired old
physics text?)  Oh, and if this is any help:  The lenses they mention in the
manual are made by/called "Belar".

On to the chemistry side of my questions.
  I purchased a gallon bottle of Ilford Universal Paper Developer and a
half-gallon of Ilford Universal Fixer.  When I purchased the enlarger, the
seller tossed in some old chemistry.  While I don't plan on using the old
dektol/d-76, etc, there was a bottle of kodak indicator stop bath.  Since
this is mostly acetic acid and an acidity indicator of some sort, I don't
figure it would go bad.  My question is:  Will this work with the Ilford
chemicals I am using, or will I need to shell out a few bucks for the
genuine Ilford chemie?  (or can I be cheap and use a water stop?)

And now:  Fogging!
  While I'm going to make every effort to make my darkroom light-tight, how
can I be sure that any existing light won't fog my paper when I first pull
it out of the dark-bag to check fogging from extraneous sources (like the
LED on the computer next to the enlarging table, or perhaps the flourescent
bulb's afterglow in my ceiling fixture, or even having the safelight
entirely too close to my table.). I'm using Ilford Multigrade III
Pearl-coated paper (semi-matte), and a kodak OC safelight.  Does anyone know
of a good (reasonably so, at least) test for fogging?  Thanks!

List of equipment:
  Opemus IIa condenser enlarger
  Ilford Universal Paper Developer
  Kodak Indicator Stop Bath
  Ilford Universal Fixer
  2 1/2 gallon Datainers (for Stop and Fixer)
  1 1 gallon Datainer (for paper developer)
  Kodak Torchiere' style safelight with an OC colored fixture, 15 watt bulb.
  (some style of timer..  it works, it's reasonably accurate.)
  3 8x10 trays
  1 5 gallon pickle bucket to hold the fixed prints in until I can get them
      to a water supply (at end of session, presumably)

Assorted other stuff that might cause problems:
A computer with green LED on top of it to indicate power. (low wattage, I'm
sure..)
2 flourescent "bulb-style" fixtures in the ceiling fan, which tend to have
an afterglow.


  Thanks-
   Dann

P.S. Should I leave the ground glass in the enlarger, or should I take it
out?  What's the advantage either way?  Thanks.
-- 
  Daniel Wagner             | Standard disclaimer <here>
  dannmann@csd4.csd.uwm.edu