HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: leath@UPEI.CA (Steve Leath)
Subject: Re: How to remove paper backing from wallpaper?
Organization: University of Prince Edward Island, CANADA
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 13:42:53 GMT

In article <1993Jan11.150959.4513@nynexst.com> selvin@nynexst.com (Al Selvin) writes:
>From: selvin@nynexst.com (Al Selvin)
>Subject: How to remove paper backing from wallpaper?
>Date: Mon, 11 Jan 93 15:09:59 GMT
>
>We removed some old wallpaper from the dining room of our
>house. The vinyl-ish paper ripped right off the wall with
>no problem, but left some sort of paper backing adhering
>to the drywall beneath it.
>
>We've heard that it's not good to steam off this kind
>of backing, because it can get the drywall too wet.
>Any truth to this? Any suggestions on how to remove it?
>Can we just paint over it?
>
>Thanks.
>
DON'T Paint over it ! If the drywall is painted (it should be) it should not 
take too much steam to get it off and therfore not damage the drywall. If 
the backing paper is in good condition no tears or thick seams you can paper 
over it.

Steve  leath@upei.ca
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: tslee@oracle.uucp (Terry S. Lee)
Subject: Looking for Tool America's phone number (ladder mfg)
Originator: tslee@wrpyr.us.oracle.com
Reply-To: tslee@oracle.uucp (Terry S. Lee)
Organization: does not represent views of Oracle Corp
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 15:26:22 GMT
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by an unauthenticated user
              at Oracle Corporation.  The opinions expressed are those
              of the user and not necessarily those of Oracle.

Unfortunately, I bought a ladder at Price Club several years ago which keeps
breaking small but important plastic parts at the joints.  The plastic parts
hold in springs that locks the joints in place.

I returned one already to Price Club for this reason, and the second started
doing it about a year and a half ago.  Price Club no longer carries this ladder.

Sooooo, I'm trying to collect on the ladder's "5 year limited warranty."  There
is no answer at the phone listed in the manual and warranty card.  The address
shown is Scarsdale, NY and information there shows no listing for Tool America.

I also noticed that the phone number for the company has been overlaid *twice*
with stickers in the manual.  Hmmm.. time to worry....  I'm hoping someone has
a lead on these guys.

Thanks in adv
Terry Lee
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: wkb@cbnews.cb.att.com (wm.keith.brummett)
Subject: Re: "humid" environment materials?
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 18:51:45 GMT
Followup-To: alt.aquaria


    In article <1993Jan4.072552.27876@netcom.com>, oleg@netcom.com (Oleg
    Kiselev) writes:
    > I am planning to build a "fish room" to house a large number of
    > aquariums in the (uninsulated) garage of our house.  The fish room
    > will have to be insulated and the materials, obviously, able to
    > resist high humidity levels.  ...
    > 
    > Any suggestions?  Is there a better, more reliable or easier way to
    > water-proof drywall?  Are there simpler to use or cheaper materials
    > available?  ...

    Someone else mentioned this, but I want to re-emphasize: there is a
    special type of drywall made for high-humidity areas.  I believe the
    other poster called it "blueboard", although the stuff I've seen is
    hospital green.  When our house was being built, this green drywall was
    used in all the bathrooms, whereas the regular, gray-white board was
    put up everywhere else in the house.  Your local hardware store folks
    should know all about this stuff.

    -- Keith

-- 
    | (614) 860-3187         Copyright (C) 1993, by       AT&T, Room 3B202 |
    | att!cblph!wkb  or,     W.K. Brummett and AT&T      6200 E. Broad St. |
    | wkb@cblph.att.com       All rights reserved.      Columbus, OH 43213 |
    `----------------------------------------------------------------------'
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: mje@pookie.pass.wayne.edu (Michael J. Edelman)
Subject: Re: Tying 2 Switches to Common Load?
Reply-To: mje@pookie.pass.wayne.edu
Organization: Wayne State University
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 19:34:20 GMT

There's another solution- use a low-voltage DC switch in each of the two locations	to control an AC relay at the fan. Simple. Low voltage DC wiring can be happily 	run with abandon.           --mike
From: khamsi@ll.mit.edu (Sarir Khamsi)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Mind in the gutter
Date: 11 Jan 93 17:58:13 GMT
Distribution: misc
Organization: MIT Lincoln Laboratory

Yo,

A friend told me that her brother said, "If leaves are left in roof
gutters, your house will explode!" (Drama added to keep up with
contemporary world events.) Just how bad are leaves in gutters and
what are the potential dangers? Thanks in advance.

--
Sarir (Riri) Khamsi - khamsi@ll.mit.edu
MIT Lincoln Laboratoy
244 Wood St.
Lexington, MA 02173
USA
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: johne@PROBLEM_WITH_INEWS_GATEWAY_FILE (John Eaton)
Subject: Re: When does it make sense to reduce the
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 21:03:02 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard VCD
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5

John Eyles (jge@cs.unc.edu) wrote:
: 
: This probably should go to misc.taxes, but: when are you better off taking
: the standard deduction ?  Of course you are if your itemized deductions
: add up to more than the standard deuction, but this has always been the
:------------------
Of course if your itemized deductions exceed the standard then you take them.
My point is that in the past you would chose the path that gave you more
deductions because of the high tax rates and low standard deduction. Now
that is not always the case. I live in a state with no personal income
tax and currently rent. The only thing I can deduct is charity contributions.

If I were to buy a typical house I would get about $6800 to deduct the first
year. But $3700 of that is already mine from the Standard deduction. So I
lose about 1/2 from the start. If I were to buy a house after the middle
of the year I probably wouldn't get enough deductions to be able to itemize.

The effect of tax reform was to push a lot of people back to the standard
deduction. You no longer get as big of a tax rebate for buying a house so
you must consider that when making a purchase. I used to buy a lot books
that I could use for work simply because I could deduct 1/2 the cost by
taking it off my taxes. Now that I can't I tend to be a lot more frugal.

John Eaton
!hp-vcd!johne

:
From: khamsi@ll.mit.edu (Sarir Khamsi)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Advice on re-finishing wood floors
Date: 7 Jan 93 17:10:14 GMT
Distribution: misc
Organization: MIT Lincoln Laboratory

Yo,

I am moving onto a house that has hard wood floors and would like to
know how much work it may be for a first-time kind of guy (me) to sand
and coat the wood floors. Is it worth doing yourself, having some
experience wood-working? Thanks in advance.


--
Sarir (Riri) Khamsi - khamsi@ll.mit.edu
MIT Lincoln Laboratoy
244 Wood St.
Lexington, MA 02173
USA
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: btwomey@cbnewsj.cb.att.com (William J. Twomey)
Subject: Re: When does it make sense to reduce the pricinple of your home loan?
Organization: Attack Tribble Training
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 18:39:51 GMT

In article <MACRAKIS.93Jan12110214@lakatos.osf.org> macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis) writes:
>In article <1993Jan11.195649.26532@cbnewsj.cb.att.com> btwomey@cbnewsj.cb.att.com (William J. Twomey) writes:
>
>   Typical home equity loans will lend you up to 25% of the
>   equity in your home....
>
>AND will not lend on the last N% of equity.  Around here, home equity
>loans at non-usurious rates require you to keep at least 25% equity in
>the house after all loans.
>

Gack!  I clearly made myelf unclear.  Stavros is correct.
Try again: Typical home equity loans will be up to, but not including
the last 25% of equity.  You might borrow as much as 75% of your equity.

My point is that even if your home is a good investment, 
it might not be the best place for you savings.  Home equity
certainly does not qualify as a cash, i.e. liquid, reserve.
And if you have less than 25% equity, you cannot cheaply borrow
against it.

Bill
-- 
bt@violin.att.com
908 615 4162
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (patterson,george r)
Subject: Re: "humid" environment materials?
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 93 17:17:49 GMT

In article <1993Jan4.072552.27876@netcom.com> oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev) writes:
>I am planning to build a "fish room" to house a large number of
>aquariums in the (uninsulated) garage of our house.

<description deleted>

>Any suggestions?  Is there a better, more reliable or easier way to
>water-proof drywall?

You might check into the coated melamine or wood panels which are
intended for use in bathrooms. They would certainly look better than
what you're describing.

> Are there simpler to use or cheaper materials
>available?  Would 2x4 framing be easier or cheaper or much safer to
>use?

Metal studs are used in commercial construction because they're easier
to install (if you have the appropriate power tools) and they're fireproof.
Wood studs are cheaper in most locations. If you don't own a screw gun
and a power driven hacksaw, they're also easier to work with.

> Would it be possible to anchor the shelving to the metal framing
>to prevent it from rocking during minor earthquakes?

Not really. Salt water weighs 8.6 pounds per gallon; fresh is about 8.
My 100 gallon display tank comes in at over 1,200 pounds. You will
need some hefty shelf supports.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | He who is not a revolutionary at 16 has no heart.
                    | He who is a revolutionary at 60 has no head.
                    |                          Lord Chesterfield
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Plumbing Questions
Keywords: advice, toilet
Date: 10 Jan 93 04:04:18 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <1il4n2INNgjl@hal.com> menna@hal.com writes:
>As part of the bathroom remodel I would like to swap the positions
>of the toilet and sink.  This would in effect move the toilet
>three feet to the left of its current position.  My questions are
>what is involved in moving a toilet?  If a plumber was hired to do this what
>could I expect as a price range?  Is this something a "plumbing hacker"
>could be exected to get working correctly?

Depends on a number of factors...:
	- across the joists, or along it?
	- copper or plastic drain pipe?
	- is the floor reinforced, or can you upgrade it?
	  (ie: adding additional blocking to support the toilet
	  flange)

The water supply pipes aren't that big a deal.  But the drain is.  If you
have to punch holes in joists or the drain is copper, I'd recommend a
professional.  The professional should the proper drill for the joists,
and know how much to reinforce the floor.  Soldering 3 or 4" copper pipe
between joists ain't for amateurs either.  The plumber will also be able
to tell whether the "drop" is sufficient (you'll need another 3/4 - 1"
of drop), and whether things have to be rearranged.

[4" plastic pipe is tricky too unless you've had a chance to practise]

Your safest compromise will be to have a pro move the drains and
install the toilet flange, and you move the supply lines.  But once
the drain is moved, the supply lines are (probably) trivial - having
the plumber do them too may not cost anything additional.

This is no place to be too stingy - an improperly supported toilet
flange is a real disaster.  Leaky drain pipe is no fun either.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (patterson,george r)
Subject: Re: Plumbing Questions
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 93 04:45:08 GMT
Keywords: advice, toilet

In article <1993Jan11.202858.28034@adobe.com> pngai@adobe.com (Phil Ngai) writes:

>Not everyone uses copper pipe for drains...

Quite true.

>I certainly
>wouldn't want to solder a 4" copper pipe with a propane torch.

Nobody else does either. Most plumbers use an acetylene torch known as a
"Presto-Lite". I gave up on propane about twenty years ago.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | "Under Consideration": We never heard of it.
George Patterson -  | "Under Active Consideration": We're searching the
                    |    files for it.
                    |         Kelvin Throop - The Management Dictionary
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: short@neocad.com (Steve Short)
Subject: Condensation between window panes.
Organization: NeoCAD, Inc.
Distribution: usa
Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1993 17:12:14 GMT

Good day,

Some time back, I remember reading about someone's solution for removing the 
buildup of condensation between windows panes.  I understand it is caused 
from a "popped" seal, which allows moisture to accumulate between the panes 
of glass.  At the time, someone suggested drilling a small hole in a lower 
corner of the inside pane.  This leads me to two questions:

   1. Does this technique work?
   2. What are the specifics on how to drill through the glass without 
      breaking it?

Posting a response to this group or sending email directly to me would be 
greatly appreciated.

Thanks and have a great day,

Steve

-- 
Steve Short
short@neocad.com
                                  ****************************************
NeoCAD, Inc.                      *     For that really swell look,      *
From: andy@w6yx.Stanford.EDU (Andrew Cromarty)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Woodburning Stoves - outlawed?
Date: 7 Jan 1993 23:00:25 GMT
Organization: Stanford University Amateur Radio Club, California USA
NNTP-Posting-Host: w6yx.stanford.edu

In article <1992Dec28.130252.1882@falcon.aamrl.wpafb.af.mil>  
jberlin@falcon.aamrl.wpafb.af.mil writes:

>    An article in Sunday's real estate section proclaimed that home builders
> in the Dayton area are refraining from installing woodburning fireplaces
> and inserts in new homes and condominiums because of *possible* future
> legislation against the burning of wood.  Is this a trend nationwide?
> Does a 1990 EPA rating or use of a catalytic unit in the stove circumvent
> any such legislation?  Are old units grandfathered? 

A month or so ago I read an article in the newspaper (probably the San
Jose Mercury) reporting that a new estimate for the contribution of wood
fire smoke to particulate pollution in the San Francisco Bay area
makes that smoke a major environmental pollution culprit.  I don't
have the article any more, but my recollection is that they revised
the estimate from an old 4% due to smoke to about 40% (the number
definitely was in the tens of per cent) due to wood smoke.  (The air
in the San Francisco Bay area is not nearly as bad as, say, Los
Angeles, but when there is an inversion---frequently, at some times
of the year---there's a layer of smoky haze at an altitude of about
1000-2000' MSL.)  

The article also indicated that there have been restrictions for years now
on new fireplace construction in the Lake Tahoe area (CA-NV border
near Reno NV).  I believe certain stoves are able to be certified to
burn sufficiently efficiently, at least for Tahoe's standards.
The implication was that within a few years the San Francsico Bay
area might see restrictions on wood burning.

					asc
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (patterson,george r)
Subject: Re: Plumbing Questions
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 93 16:44:28 GMT
Keywords: advice, toilet

In article <1il4n2INNgjl@hal.com> menna@hal.com writes:

>As part of the bathroom remodel I would like to swap the positions
>of the toilet and sink.  This would in effect move the toilet
>three feet to the left of its current position.  My questions are
>what is involved in moving a toilet?  If a plumber was hired to do this what
>could I expect as a price range?  Is this something a "plumbing hacker"
>could be exected to get working correctly?

The first question is whether it can be done reasonably at all. For the
toilet, you will be dealing with a pipe at least 4" in diameter. For
economic reasons, these are normally located as close as possible to
the main drain pipe. Drain plumbing must drop at least 1/4" for every
foot of lateral run. You may find that you can't move it and maintain
this much drop.

If it can be moved and you have plastic pipe, this is definitely a DIY
job. If the drain piping is cast iron, I'd recommend calling a pro. I
don't know what they charge these days. Galvanized (rare, but done) can
be a DIY if you have the tools.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day.
George Patterson -  | Teach a man to fish and you get rid of him 
                    |    on weekends.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: bryanshu@dsuvax.dsu.edu (Bryan Schumacher)
Subject: Electric Dryer not drying properly - any clues?
Organization: Dakota State University, Madison, SD
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 15:13:10 GMT

Howdy all!


I am having a problem with my 5 year old dryer.  It takes up to 2 hours
to dry a load of clothes that used to take 40-50 minutes.  I checked the
lint catcher, and cleaned all that out, but it never seemed to help - so
I am assuming it is mechanical.  First of all, how tough is it to
decipher the problem myself - and secondly, could I do the repair?  I am
pretty handy with tools - at least I haven't broken enough things trying
to fix them to quit trying to fix them! =)  Or should I just break down
and hire some guy to come out and fix it? As for what is happening, when
the dryer is running, the heating element comes on for about 20 seconds
every 5 or so minutes, but the dryer is never as warm as I think it
should be.  I checked the vent and tubing for the vent, and everything
seems to be in order.  Any answers would be greatly appreciated!!!!!!!

Thanks,
Bryan Schumacher
bryanshu@dsuvax.dsu.edu

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: selvin@nynexst.com (Al Selvin)
Subject: Hearths for woodstoves
Reply-To: selvin@nynexst.com
Organization: NYNEX Science & Technology, Inc
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 93 15:24:11 GMT


We're in the process of getting a woodstove, and have run into
some confusion on the question of hearths. Does anyone out there
know something about this subject? specifically, how thick does
the stone or brick need to be, does there need to be anything 
underneath it (heat shield, "wonderboard"), do you need to
reinforce the floor if you put in a masonry hearth, are there
any good books to consult on the subject,
etc.

We`ve spoken to a mason, two woodstove stores, a chimney/woodstove
installer, a stoneyard, the town building inspector, various friends,
and read a few books, and everyone seems to say something different
(e.g. you need 6" thickness of stone, you need 1" thick of stone, you
do need a heat shield, you don't need a heat shield, and so on.

Any help appreciated! Please reply via e-mail to selvin@nynexst.com.
Thanks.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Al Selvin      <selvin@nynexst.com>         NYNEX Science & Technology, Inc.
Expert Systems Lab                          500 Westchester Avenue
voice: (914) 644-2156                       White Plains, NY USA 10604
fax:   (914) 644-2404
From: egreen@east.sun.com (Ed Green - Pixel Cruncher)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers
Subject: Re: 2H Smoke and Gov't Rules
Date: 12 Jan 1993 14:52:56 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, RTP, NC
Distribution: world
Reply-To: egreen@east.sun.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: laser.east.sun.com

In article 18064@rtsg.mot.com, sorbrrse@rtsg.mot.com (Russell E. Sorber) writes:
>>
>Political  promises are often  broken.
>The only control is to vote them out of office. 
>I suspect Carls dedication to motorcycling would be in the minority
>at the polling place, though.  Most voters  would want the 
>government to break its promise to motorcyclists before it left 
>bills from hospitals, schools or pharmacies unpaid.  

And most voters will want tobacco tax revenue to go to whatever will
reduce their personal tax bill, which is Carl's whole point:

Anybody that believes a tax on tobacco products will go specifically to
health care costs caused by smokers is living in a fantasy.  Tax is
tax, it is money given to the government, which is certain to be pissed
away, and in no logical fashion.

---
Ed Green, former Ninjaite |I was drinking last night with a biker,
  Ed.Green@East.Sun.COM   |and I showed him a picture of you.  I said,
DoD #0111  (919)460-8302  |"Go on, get to know her, you'll like her!"
 (The Grateful Dead) -->  |It seemed like the least I could do...
From: kolstad@cae.wisc.edu (Joel Kolstad)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers
Subject: Re: 10 CDs for the price of 1: kosher?
Date: 7 Jan 93 23:12:14 GMT
Organization: U of Wisconsin-Madison College of Engineering

In article <1993Jan7.011948.8472@ads.com> henry@ADS.COM (Henry Mensch) writes:
>alasnik@casbah.acns.nwu.edu (Adam Lasnik) wrote: 
>->--People forget to send back the "selection-of-the-month" card, and so
>->consequently get stuck with the overpriced CD whether they want it or not.
>
>mark the box "return to sender" and send it back.  i do this all the
>time without hassles.

This certainly works, but there may be an even better alternative...

I'm in the BMG club, and several years ago I sent them a letter that
informed them that, since I had taken advantage of next to none of their
"specials of the month" offers, I would like the default option on the
monthly mailing to be "don't send me anything."  They complied -- it's
really nice!

I also joined the "two free for life" deal several years back, and it's
paid off well.  Be careful, though... if you don't order anything for about
6 months, they'll send you little cards that inform you that you'll be
dropped as a member if you don't send them the card back!  After about 4 of
these cards, they got the message that I was NOT about to just go away and
die, and they haven't bothered sending me any more little cards since.

						---Joel Kolstad
From: paulonis@kodak.com (Mike Paulonis)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers
Subject: Re: Bread makers: (flour)
Date: 11 Jan 93 17:42:18 GMT
Organization: Eastman Chemical Co., Kingsport, TN, USA
X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1.1d13
X-XXDate: Mon, 11 Jan 93 12:44:48 GMT

In article <1993Jan11.140130.16851@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> fusco,
mf@dancer.cc.bellcore.com writes:
>A slight twist (that may have been addressed before - sorry):
>
>Why do bread makers (at least the Panasonic) call for 'bread flour'?
>Can you use 'all-purpose' flour with similar results (I have tried
>but haven't tasted it yet - looks ok though!).
>
>Thanks!

The bread flour has more gluten than all-purpose.  This contributes to
better rising and thus better (more uniform, less dense, etc.) bread. 
Other kinds of flour such as whole wheat may require additional gluten to
be added to the mix to obtain satisfactory results.