HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: stevenj@microsoft.com (Steven Johnson)
Subject: Dream Saw
Date: 17 Nov 92 15:54:25 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp.
Keywords: Tablesaw


Has anyone had experience with the Inca 2100SE tablesaw?  This is the larger 
Inca, with a 12" blade capacity.  I'd like to know if anyone could
compare this saw to, say, the Powermatic 66.  I have an opportunity to
get the Inca, but cannot see the saw myself until it arrives.  Is it well
made?  Any drawbacks/ design shortcomings?  Are spare parts readily
available?

Also, on another topic -- Do the drill press mortising attachments
work as well as the horizontal mortising machines?


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: rainer@spot.Colorado.EDU (Rainer Malzbender)
Subject: Re: Roy Underhill is a good turner.  Norm ain't.
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 17:57:32 GMT

In article <4320061@hpcc01.corp.hp.com> gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz) writes:
>   Norm is not the craftsman that Roy is, but he gets things done.  Nice
>   plans, sometimes, and good tips on construction.   But when it comes to
>   fine woodworking, Roy is your man.  

Not! I've never seen either Norm or Roy (especially not Roy!) build anything
that even remotely would qualify for a Fine Woodworking cover. We need a
new show by someone who's not addicted to Shaker furniture or to the "gotta
start by mining the ore if you want to make a table" school of woodworking.


-- 
Rainer M. Malzbender      I met this guy, and he looked like he might have been
Fyzzicks                  a hat check clerk at an ice rink. Which in fact he
CU Boulder                turned out to be. And I said "Oh boy, right again".
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: millios@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (william.l.millios)
Subject: Veneers and veneering
Organization: AT&T
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 19:07:11 GMT

This is one topic I haven't seen discussed much, and my fiance
(for only 9 more days) reminds me that the dresser and bureau
set I "gave" her for her birthday last year still needs some
work done on it.

When I bought the pieces for a song (both for something like $100),
I thought that they were solid oak.  I knew there was damage to the
top, but figured I could sand the top down past that point, inflict
some "age damage" to match the rest of the piece, stain to match,
and pat myself on the back as having pulled a fast one.

Well, woe is me.  Upon actually starting the project, I find that
the top of the dresser and bureau are actually veneers.  (White oak).
No problem, just measure, and check the catalogs.  Hmm.  Constantines
advertises their veneers, but the one on the dresser is rather thick -
I'd estimate (since I don't have digital calipers like some folks
out there) it to be nearly 1/8 of an inch.

Is this standard thickness?  Should I just order bookmatched
veneers out of Constantines?

While we're on that topic, how about a quick run down on how to 
do this?  Do I soak it?  How do I find a tub big enough to soak
a piece of wood that's 3 by 4 feet?

Glue to use?  How to clamp?  You get my drift.  I'm not really into
veneering, (and now realize that I'd rather not be) but I got trapped
into this project, and need some help getting bailed out.

All assistance welcome.  I have looked around, and cannot find any
"quick and easy" directions on how to veneer large flat surfaces.

Bill
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bds@mbunix.mitre.org (Smith)
Subject: Re: Dream Saw (long)
Organization: The MITRE Corporation, Bedford, MA
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 13:54:03 GMT

I think Bennett makes a very strong case that the Inca 12" table saw
is a lot better than the Delta, Powermatic, General, and other 10"
table saws.  But it is also almost $1000 more, so you would expect
that.  So, seeking a challenge, I looked for an alternative that is
about the same cost.  The Davis and Wells 12" table saw is made in Los
Angeles, and is pretty much the same design they've used for about 30
years.  They also make a 16" model.  I don't own one although I am
considering it for sometime in the next couple of years.

The pluses: It's a large, heavy machine that uses a lot of cast iron.
It has a larger table than the Inca (cast iron with no extensions,
although extensions are available), and has an all-cast iron fence
that's machined on both sides.  It has an excellent gear system for
adjusting the blade height, and this system also forms a dust
collection box around the blade.  All moving parts are balanced at the
factory.  There is a range of accessories like an overhead blade
guard.  Mostly this machine is a throwback to the days when table saws
were large, powerful, and indestructable.

The minuses: It has a 3/4" arbor and uses only 2 v-belts for the drive
(since every other high-end machine uses 3 belts, I think this is
something to be concerned about--however, they've been doing this for
a long time now, and you would think if it was a problem they would
have added a third belt).  It also doesn't have accessories like a
mortising table like the Inca.  I can't find any other negatives from
the literature.

Again, I'm presenting this as an alternative to the Inca.  At this
level, I think any saw you buy is going to be excellent (or should
be).  I would like to hear any comments.  By the way, Davis and Wells
also make a very nice 6"X62" jointer, a 20" bandsaw, a 1" shaper, and
a couple of boring machines.

Barry
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: loyd@seq.uncwil.edu (David Loyd)
Subject: Books for sale: SOMEBODY BUY THESE 5 BOOKS!!
Organization: Univ. of North Carolina @ Wilmington
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 04:07:03 GMT


I have the following woodworking/project books for sale.
They are in excellant shape and, sad to say, have never been
used. I bought them just prior to moving from a house w/ a two
car garage which housed my workshop to a house with an 8'x10'
attached shed.

33 Useful Projects for the Woodworker
Making Folk Toys & Weather Vanes
Designing and Building Childrens Furniture
Backyard Builders Bonanza
Home Wiring: From start to finish

First come / First Serve on the books with decent offers.
THe more you buy the cheaper they become.
Please email offers to the account below.
Buyer pays shipping 

THank you for your support!

-- 
loyd@seq.uncwil.edu

Amiga 2000 Tower               8megs 32bit Ram   
Supra 2400ZI+ Modem            Sony KV-1311CR Monitor 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bamford@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (harold.e.bamford)
Subject: Re: Help/Advice on Spray finish(-ing, -ers)
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 22:46:56 GMT

In article <p7v1zc=@rpi.edu> ameres@ithaca.cat.rpi.edu (Eric Ameres) writes:
> [...]  I've gotten some recomendations that
>I should really use a sprayer to apply the final finish
>(laquer/poly-).  I've seen the Wagner Fine Coat (HVLP) sprayer for
>around $180 locally.  Any advice?

Last year I bought the Wagner Fine Coat (HVLP) for use with gloss
water-based poly (Amity).  The unit is very nice but just doesn't
atomize the poly enough to give a nice smooth surface.  I worked at it
for almost a month, consulting with both Amity and Wagner and never was
able to get a smooth finish.  I suppose it would have been good enough
for a satin finish provided you never touched the surface.  I finally,
regretfully, returned the unit for a refund and went with a nice gun
for my compressor.  I would LOVE to have HVLP, but $180 doesn't give
good HVLP performance and I don't have $500+ for get a decent unit...

However, spraying is THE way to go and I strongly recommend the
water-based polys.

-- Harold Bamford
#include <usual.disclaimers>
From: dricejb@drilex.dri.mgh.com (Craig Jackson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Electric drills
Date: 19 Nov 92 21:19:32 GMT
Organization: DRI/McGraw-Hill, Lexington, MA
NNTP-Posting-Host: bbn.com

The new line of DeWalt hand tools is made by Black&Decker.  They began
using the DeWalt name for their higher-quality tools because the name
Black&Decker has become associated with low quality, low price tools.

They introduced this new DeWalt line about the same time they discontinued
the old DeWalt stationary tools, especially the radial arm saws.

Evidently, DeWalt has been owned by Black&Decker for some time.
-- 
Craig Jackson -- cjackson@mgh.com (Straight Internet)
dricejb@drilex.dri.mgh.com (uucp-forwarded)
{bbn,alliant,redsox}!drilex!{dricej,dricejb}
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jp@hpuerca.atl.hp.com (John Pierce)
Subject: Scraping/Burnishing versus Sanding
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 15:27:03 GMT
Organization: the Atlanta Technology Center
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1.3 PL5


Hi, gang!

The previous thread was an Excellent Discussion about scraping and sanding.
I just wanted to follow up with some things I have "discovered."

I am certainly not the Grand High Poobah of Woodworking Knowledge.  I
like what George Frank says about finishing:  read, study and experiment.
Enjoy learning more and trying something different.  To me me, it seems
that when you keep trying things on your own, you can pick up on subtle
remarks the experts make.  The point is to enjoy LEARNING.

This week I used the bandsaw to cut out a maple leaf, using a real leaf
as the pattern.  I used a piece of scrap oak, because that's what was
in the scrap wood box.  To smooth the bandsaw marks, I used a chisel, then
a cabinet scraper along the edges.

I noticed that the scraper made the edges glossy, even on end grain.  The
smaller the surface area, the glossier it was.  I looked and wondered.

Then it hit me.  In Frank Klausz's Wood Finishing video, he did a demo on
a piece of walnut with "wild grain."  He planed it, then scraped it,
then sanded.  He explained that he sanded it because the scraper "crushed
the fibers."

Of course!  When you use a scraper, the scraper does more than just cut
grain with the burr, it actually burnishes the wood by compressing the
fibers.  Remember, the burr is sharp on the cutting edge, but rounded on
the part that follows.  That's why it looks so good.

So how much would JUST burnishing affect the surface?  I took my Veritas
Tri-Burnisher to wood scraps.  Some were planed, some scraped, some sanded.
Sure enough!  The scraper made it shiny, but the burnisher made it more
so in all cases.  On one piece, it was gorgeous.  It looked like it had
an oil finish, but it was just raw wood.

So it seems that that a scraper gives TWO actions:  cutting with the burr,
and burnishing as a follow-up.  Pretty nifty.

Now, the question to ask is, how does burnishing affect the final finish?
I would think that over time, the mechanical deformation of the wood would
give way to atmospheric moisture effects (not to mention moisture from
stains, finishes, spills, etc.)

So, I'd think that is why Frank Klausz uses sandpaper after scraping:  not
to smooth, but to rough up the surface to allow a better bond.  This would
open the fibers and allow the finish material to either penetrate more
deeply (for oil, etc) or to grip more area (for a surface finish).

And if you *want* a burnished (less porous) surface, use the scraper, or
even burnish with a polished burnishing tool of some sort.

Are these thoughts off base?  Hmm...it will be interesting to see what
discussion will come after this.


---
	#################ANY#OPINONS#HERE#ARE#MY#OWN####################
				John Pierce
			 Atlanta Technology Center
			  jdp@itpg004.atl.hp.com
			      (404) 850-2492
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: crayfe2@INEL.GOV (John Metzner)
Subject: Finish problem
Reply-To: crayfe2@inel.gov (John Metzner)
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 92 21:30:52 GMT

	My wife and I are refinishing some ladder back chairs to match
a tile top table I'm building.  She just called and said that she had a 
problem with the first chair when she tried sanding it down for the final
coat of Watco Teak Oil.  She put the first two coats on yesterday as per
the instructions on the can without problem, then today when she sanded,
the majority of the oil came off in "gummy, waxy globs" (her techical 
term :^)).   The chairs originally had a dark walnut stain with a really
thick high gloss finish.  Could something from the original finish be 
blocking the Watco from being absorbed?  Should I try thinning the Watco?
We've used oil from the same can to finish some of the parts for the 
table without any problems. 

	Any ideas folks?  Post or e-mail would me much appreciated.

Thanks in Advance,
John Metzner
Cray Research, Inc.
crayfe2@inel.gov


P.S.  Sorry about the ugly disclaimer below. It's beyond my control and
not my idea.......hit 'n'







========== long legal disclaimer follows, press n to skip ===========

Neither the United States Government or the Idaho National Engineering
Laboratory or any of their employees, makes any warranty, whatsoever,
implied, or assumes any legal liability or responsibility regarding any
information, disclosed, or represents that its use would not infringe
privately owned rights.  No specific reference constitutes or implies
endorsement, recommendation, or favoring by the United States
Government or the Idaho National Engineering Laboratory.  The views and
opinions expressed herein do not necessarily reflect those of the
United States Government or the Idaho National Engineering Laboratory,
and shall not be used for advertising or product endorsement purposes.
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 17 Nov 1992 08:39:00 EST
From:         "V70A::BOURLETT" <BOURLETT%V70A.decnet@NPT.NUSC.NAVY.MIL>
Subject:      woodpeckers

  I was wondering if anyone has had experience buying from the company
"Woodpeckers" for router bits? I am looking to get a set of reversible stile
 and rail cutters. Thanks
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ggibeau@ucqais.cba.uc.edu (George G. Gibeau)
Subject: Re: Woodworking books
Organization: University of Cincinnati, College of Business
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 06:06:33 GMT

In <1992Nov18.181325.11863@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com> billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson) writes:

>I personally, would be very interested. For that matter, if the store has
>a list that they mail out, I would like to get their address. My interests
>span far more than woodworking.

>Bill

I have received a boat load of requests for more info.  I am off work
Friday, so will pay them a visit and see what information I can
acquire.  I understand from one of my friends that they are strictly
a local outfit.

More info to follow on Friday...

George


-- 
George Gerald Gibeau, Jr.   ggibeau@ucqais.uc.edu
University of Cincinnati    Department of Biological Sciences
Ecologists - we'll save the world, even if it kills you.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ameres@ithaca.cat.rpi.edu (Eric Ameres)
Subject: Help/Advice on Spray finish(-ing, -ers)
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy NY
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 15:51:51 GMT

As some of you may know, I'm working on a kitchen cabinet project.
Now I'm looking into preparing for the finish work (not to say I've
completed the cabinets though).  I've gotten some recomendations that
I should really use a sprayer to apply the final finish
(laquer/poly-).  I've seen the Wagner Fine Coat (HVLP) sprayer for
around $180 locally.  Any advice?

The material is oak and oak veneer plywood ( I might use some birch
bly where it's not visible to save a few $$).  I'm planning on
applying a sanding sealer, then a natural stain, then multiple coats
of poly-/laquer (the recommendation I got was 8-9 coats, rubbing w/
steel wool between every three caots or so).

As always, thanks in advance...

Eric.

-- 
------------------- Note the new address !!! -------------------------
Eric Ameres,  Software Engineer                 ameres@cat.rpi.edu
New York State Center for Advanced Technology in Automation & Robotics
Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute - CII 8313, Troy, NY 12180-3590
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: woodpeckers
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 17:14:11 GMT

 writes
>   I was wondering if anyone has had experience buying from the company
> "Woodpeckers" for router bits?

They used to carry Byrom bits, until they went out of business. I noticed 
that they are again advertising bits "Made in the US," but didn't name their
source.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
From: wack@ariel.ncsl.nist.gov (John Wack)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: help: delta motorized saw adjustment
Date: 23 Nov 92 14:49:22 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: National Institute of Standards & Technology


If there are any other poor devils out there such as myself who own
a Delta Motorized 10" tablesaw AND have spent mucho hours trying to
get rid of runout and other adjustment problems, please have pity on
me and continue reading. :-) 

I got ahold of Duginski's article on adjusting table saws in FWW, but,
lo and behold, it appears that this Delta doesn't have much in the
way of fine adjustment capability.  I started out by rocking the motor
to see if there was any play, which there was, but I can't see any way
to eliminate it - no screws to tighten down, etc.  The motor rocks up
and down (not sideways) on the screw that adjusts blade depth, mainly
because the attachment on the screw is loose fitting - but, it can't
be tightened, since it's one piece.  Has anyone out there found this
problem and successfully corrected it?

Another problem is that the blade is not perfectly parallel to the miter
slot.  There are four screws that hold the motor/arbor assembly to the
top, so I started with those - loosened, tightened, loosened, tightened,
etc.  It appears that getting this perfectly in line requires extreme
patience or specialized tools.  Anyone get this to work?

Finally, it appears as if the arbor flange is not true - using Duginski's
method and two different blades, I got consistent results.  Is there
any reasonable way to correct this?  

If anyone can provide any help, it will be greatly appreciated.

If you don't own this Delta and are still reading, hear me out: next time
anyone criticizes a Jet/Grizzly/Trendlines/Taiwanese import, remember that
Delta, at the low end, is not any better and possibly worse.  When I do
get a new saw, it won't be a Delta.

Thanks,
From: wesw@hpmwtd.sr.hp.com (Wes Whiteley)
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 21:55:50 GMT
Subject: Re: Wormdrive saws
Organization: HP Santa Rosa Site (SRSD MWTD)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

/ hpmwmkt6:rec.woodworking / Jeff Roberts <JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.BITNET> /  7:47 am  Nov 13, 1992 /
Would anybody out there consider explaining the details of these saws such
as application, why it's called "wormdrive" etc.  I'm not familiar with them.

Jeff Roberts  JROBERTS@UTDALLAS
----------

  Jeff,

  I don't have all the details, but here is the the basics.

  On a normal circular saw, the motor's shaft is directly (i.e. NO gears)
  connected to the saw blade. On a worm drive saw the blade is connected to 
  the motor via a set of "worm" gears.  The biggest advantage of these saws
  is the increase in torque as a result of the gear ratios.  The draw backs
  are: 1) a heavier saw. 2) a little more maintenance (the gear oil has to 
  be changed occasionally - depending on usage).


  Good luck,

  wes
From: sabat@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Make Brass look Old
Date: 20 Nov 92 11:47:13 EST

I need some antique brass cabinet hinges but can only find bright brass ones.
Does anyone know of a way to severely dull/corrode them to make them look like
antique ones?

Ted		Sabat@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com
Newsgroups: rec.skiing
From: mhartzel@shanghai.cba.du.edu (Mark_Hartzell)
Subject: Colorado is getting dumped on!
Organization: University of Denver
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 92 03:28:00 GMT

	Denver expects 5"-10", the central Colorado mountains 10"-20", and  
the SW part of the Colorado expects a little less by Monday night.  I  
finish school on Tuesday, I hope to see you all up skiing.
	If you didn't hear, Colorado also got dumped on this past Friday.   
I hope the this weather continues throughout the entire season.
	I plan to be in Crested Butte from Nov. 27 to Dec. 1.  If there  
are any other telemarkers that would like to join me in skiing some  
challenging stuff, send me e-mail.  My address is  
Mark_Hartzell@denver.cba.du.edu.  	

Enjoy the weather
Mark
Newsgroups: rec.skiing
From: woodside@maestro.mitre.org (Jim Woodside)
Subject: Steamboat lodging question 
Reply-To: woodside@maestro.mitre.org (Jim Woodside)
Organization: The MITRE Corporation, McLean, Va
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 16:29:42 GMT

Some friends of mine and I are going to Steamboat and will be staying at
the Noregian Log condos.  These are rated excellent and are suppose to be
very nice.  Has anyone stayed there that could give me their opinions?
Thanks.

__________________________

Jim Woodside
woodside@maestro.mitre.org
Newsgroups: rec.skiing
From: dspencer@spock.retix.com (David Spencer)
Subject: Rock Creek Winter Lodge?
Organization: Retix, Santa Monica CA
Distribution: ca
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1992 01:36:04 GMT

Does the Rock Creek Winter Lodge (near Mammoth) still exist?  I went 
there around 5 years ago and had a great time but I'm under the 
impression that it no longer exists...Anything else like it, esp those
backcountry geodesic dome huts?

		-- Dave Spencer
		dspencer@retix.com
From: kseah@cs.utexas.edu (Kenneth Cheng-Lim Seah)
Newsgroups: rec.skiing
Subject: Snow conditions and ftp sites
Date: 22 Nov 1992 15:23:56 -0600
Organization: ESCware Associates
NNTP-Posting-Host: boogie.cs.utexas.edu
Keywords: snow ftp


Hi all...
  I was wondering if there was an ftp site somewhere that had the snow 
conditions of various ski areas.  Also if someone has the conditions out
at Taos, NM for this week (and the Thanksgiving weekend) and could mail me
that, I would appreciate it!  BTW That's Taos Ski Area to be precise...
  Regards -- Ken
-- 
Kenneth Seah (kseah@cs.utexas.edu|PO Box 8565, Austin, TX 78713-8565|TAY 5.144)
Grad Student, Dept of Computer Sciences, University of Texas at Austin
"Money means nothing 'cause hacks are free..." (Apologies to MK)
Disclaimer:  Disclaim 'er?? Why I don't even know 'er...
From: mattho@heifer.lbl.gov (Matt Ho)
Newsgroups: rec.skiing
Subject: Re: Closest ski area to San Jose?
Date: 18 Nov 1992 17:08:32 GMT
Organization: Lawrence Berkeley Laboratory
Distribution: ca
Reply-To: mattho@heifer.lbl.gov (Matt Ho)
NNTP-Posting-Host: 128.3.128.96

If you want to go during from 12/5 to 12/6, there may not be much snow in Tahoe. It may even come down to rock shiing.

Newsgroups: rec.skiing
From: calondis@meaddata.com (David Calondis)
Subject: Winter Park Colorado
Organization: Mead Data Central, Dayton OH
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 18:49:52 GMT
Distribution: na

I've just been reading up on Winter Park and it sounds pretty
awesome: "Colorado's favorite ski resort", the train ride from 
Denver, Parsenn bowl opening this season (today! in fact), the
200 acres of above treeline skiing in Parsenn bowl, Mary Jane,
more than 5 feet of snow since Nov. 1, etc.

Anyone care to elaborate on this ski resort?!
-- 
+---------------------+-------------------------------------------------+
|   David Calondis    | Opinions, comments, snide remarks are my own    |
|  Mead Data Central  |    and not that of MDC...                       |
|    P.O. Box 933     +-------------------------------------------------+
| Dayton, Ohio  45401 |  Work to eat, eat to live,      __o       __o   |
+---------------------+     Live to bike,             _,\<,_    _,\<,_  |
|calondis@meaddata.com|        Bike to work!         (_)/ (_)  (_)/ (_) |    
+---------------------+-------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.skiing