HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

In rec.autos.tech, fragante@unixg.ubc.ca (Gv Fragante) writes:

|Is there any noticeable difference in the *mounted* height between a 
|195/50/15 vs. 205/50/15 ?  These would be mounted on a 15x6.5 rim. If there
|is a difference, by how much (in mm) ?  What about a 195/55/15 tire ?  Will
|it be taller or shorter than a 205/50/15 ?
|
|The reason is because I am currently using a 205/50/15 tires on 15x6.5 rims
|on a Honda Accord. The overall mounted diameter looks fine (i.e. proportional
|to the car without lowering suspensions). However because of the thickness, the
|tires are sticking out a bit. I want to get rid of this, so they told me to
|go with a 195/50/15. This could probably make the tires/rim "flush" against
|the side of the car, but my concern is that the overall mounted diameter of
|the tire would make it look too small for the car. Someone else, recommended
|a 195/55/15 tire - but these sizes are rare (only Yoko and Pirelli seem to have
|them).
|
|Any comments and suggestions ?  Thanks.

I'll try.  Since your rims are the same, that's taken care of.  The difference
would be due to the tyres.  The first number refers to the widest cross-
section of the tyre, usually the "bulge" midway between the tread and the rim 
outer diameter (and where the "gorgeous raised white lettering :-) is found).  
The second figure refers to the aspect ratio between:

     a.   height of tyre (ie radial distance from rim outer edge to tread)
	and
     b.   widest cross section

Eg 205/50 means that the widest cross section is 205mm, and the radial
distance from the rim to the tread is 50% of 205mm.  (My apologies if you
already know this.  I don't mean to insult your intelligence).

So, let's compare.  205/50 == 102.5mm
		    195/50 == 97.5mm  (5mm lower than 205/50)
		    195/55 == 107.25mm (4.75mm higher than 205/50)

(Differences due to over/under inflation not taken into account here.)

So, the choice is approx 5mm either way.  Is that significant?  Well, if its 
a matter of aesthetics, I'll leave the answer to you.  But, if its regarding 
aerodynamics/handling etc, I'll defer to the net.

Hope this helped
lawrence
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jwrpph@ritvax.isc.rit.edu (John W. Retallack)
Subject: Austin Healey parts needed
Reply-To: jwrpph@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 16:23:39 GMT


Parts wanted for a 1956 Austin Healey LeMans 100M, BN2L

Complete engine, transmission & overdrive.

Send E-Mail to JWRPPH@RITVAX.ISC.RIT.EDU
or call directly to
	Craig Horning	716 621 8200
			716 225 8931

Thank you
John W. Retallack
From: rkarlqu@hpscit.sc.hp.com (Rick Karlquist)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 00:17:52 GMT
Subject: Re: reliable cars
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Clara, CA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

In rec.autos.tech, mas6d@uvacs.cs.Virginia.EDU (M. Anne Shackelford) writes:

> I am graduating from school and am interested in purchasing a small reliable car
> - preferably hatchback.

> Do you have recommendations of cars to consider buying and cars to consider NOT
> buying.


> Thanks,

> Anne
> mas6d@cs.virginia.edu

Highly reliable:  anything by Toyota

Highly UNreliable:  any FWD car made by GM before 1988, especially the
Pontiac 6000 and its corporate twins.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kelley@cwis.unomaha.edu (Sean Kelley)
Subject: Re: Idle speed won't adjust lower than 1200RPM
Keywords: 2.8L V6, idle speed
Organization: University of Nebraska at Omaha
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 03:50:21 GMT

russell@ncube.com (Russell Randolph) writes:


>I have an '84 Chevy S-10 w/ 2.8 liter V6.  Just rebuilt the carb.  Truck
>has much more power, but the minimum idle speed setting is 1200 RPM!  Yet
>the throttle valve appears to be completely closed.  Here is what I've don

Okay, something simple....did you checkthe throttle cable going to tne
carb...when I had my tranny rebuilt lately..they dropped the tranny off
which forced the engine to tip forward..whick shifted the postion of the
cable in the holder...which raised the idle 300-400 rpm...really
confusing till i noticied the cable had been pulled back about .5 inches
or so...
I am thinking that when the carb was put on maybe the cable was not
adjusted properly...and that it is just pulling on the throttle all the
time...try loosening it up and slidding the cable forward a bit to
release some tension on the cable...
From: ibe@world.std.com (ira b ekhaus)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: SURVEY: Home mech's favs>> newer cars and computer gizmos
Date: 19 Aug 92 15:19:05 GMT
Article-I.D.: world.Bt8L7t.8E9
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA

ok,
First, the device was a SUN TECH1, and there were interfaces to the 
a PC, actually the SUN equipment is a ruggedized PC.

>: Eventually , states will not allow the older. simpler cars on the
>: road.  The DIYer's will have to confront the newer technology.  The
>
then someone took the bait....
>They'll have to pry my cold, dead fingers away from the steering wheel of my
>smoky, carburetted, 2-stroke SAABs, because I won't give them up for any damn
>POLITICIAN!

I'd say we've already lost this one: Everytime some POL upgrades
mileage and emmission requirements without even considering a more
rational carbon tax , our rights have been compromised.


ira
ibe@world.std.com
From: love@stacken.kth.se (Love Feuer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 195/50/15 vs. 205/50/15
Date: 14 Aug 92 10:32:23 GMT
Organization: Stacken Computer Club, Stockholm, Sweden

In article <53110021@hpsgm2.sgp.hp.com> leonglaw@hpsgm2.sgp.hp.com (Lawrence Leong) writes:
>In rec.autos.tech, fragante@unixg.ubc.ca (Gv Fragante) writes:
>
>|Is there any noticeable difference in the *mounted* height between a 
>|195/50/15 vs. 205/50/15 ?  These would be mounted on a 15x6.5 rim. If there
>|is a difference, by how much (in mm) ?  What about a 195/55/15 tire ?  Will
>|it be taller or shorter than a 205/50/15 ?
>|
I spoke to an friend of fmine, who used to do development for Pirelli 
in the seventies, about low-profile tyres.

He warned me about increased stress on the wheel-bearings if you change to
205's. Since the wheels stick out further from the car any force
on the outer end of the wheel will have a much higher impact on the bearings 
than it would have if you drove around with thinner wheels.

Nobody else have repeated this warning though, so I don't know how serious
it is. One should be able to calculate the difference in stress on the bearings
given all the data about the bearings and tyres.

/Love F. (love@lk.se)
From: bdl@cruiser.uucp (Bob Lombard)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: international scout advice wanted
Date: 22 Aug 92 02:08:06 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: what? me organized? no way!

jory@athena.mit.edu (Jory Bell) writes:

> I am looking at an 1975 International Scout. It is presently in
> California and it is rust free (they are asking around $2000). 
> 
> Anyway, I wanted to know if anyone had any wisdom on what to look for
> when buying such a beast. What breaks, what to look for (any axle of
> engine options?). etc...
> 
> Also, can anyone tell me of a source for Scout parts. Is there some
> godly mail-order source, or am I forever relegated to rummaging
> through boneyards?

Try subscribing to the offraod mail list.. there are a couple of scout
fanatics there...Just send a message to the moderator asking to be
added...

The address is offroad@wizvax.methuen.ma.us

good luck..

*****************************************************************
* Bob Lombard ||  bdl@cruiser.uucp  || 418 Village Center Drive *
*             ||                    || Encinitas, Ca. 92024     *
*  |~~|_                                                        *
*  |    :           "If it ain't green and it ain't old,        *
*  '0-0-''..../\..   .. it ain't my truck                       *
*****************************************************************
From: Cliff_Lum@mindlink.bc.ca (Cliff Lum)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Redline MTL for Miata - GL-4 vs GL-5
Date: 15 Aug 92 02:07:54 GMT
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada
Distribution: world

> Mike Suter writes:
> 
> Msg-ID: <1992Aug13.205446.925%jim.uucp@wupost.wustl.edu>
> Posted: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 20:54:4
> 
> Org.  : BITS, St. Louis, MO
> 
> samuels@mcclb0.med.nyu.edu (Herb Samuels) writes:
> 
> >What is the difference between GL-4 and GL-5 manual transmssion fluid.
> >Redline sells two manual transmission lubricants for the Mazda miata.
> >One is MT-90 which is a 75w90 GL-4 and the second is a 75w90NS GL-5.
> >The NS stands for no slip and they said it has a higher viscosity than
> >the GL-4.  Someone else told me that GL-4 was of higher viscosity than
> >GL-5.  Are there any inherant advantages of GL-4 vs GL-5 or GL-5 vs
> >GL-4.  The Miata Manual indicates that either GL-4 or GL-5 can be
> >used.
> 
> I just battled all of this a month or so ago.  If I got it right,
> GL-4 is meant for manual transmissions, and GL-5 is meant for
> differentials.  GL-5 has additives which will corrode the synchros
> in a transmission expecting GL-4, so use GL-4 unless specifically
> told to do otherwise.  (GL-5 and 6 do not replace GL-4)
> 
> Look in your manual to find the correct weight.  Call Redline
> and ask for their techie.
> 
>  It is true that regular petroleum based GL-5 diff oils have corosives in
> them but according to the RedLine Tech literature their Gear oil 75W90 NS
> does not contain any corrosive additives that will eat at the synchros so if
> a GL-5 oil is recommened you can safely use Redline 75W-90 NS GL-5.
>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 5 pt harnesses
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 21 Aug 92 16:18:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * Jacksonville AR USA * 501-985-0059


-> Just a bit of info.  Technically federal laws state that passenger
-> vehicles shall have 3-point and ONLY 3-point seating restraints.

 Baloney.  The CFR doesn't even *require* seat belts.  The spec was
written when it looked like big fixed pads might be an alternative.
As long as you meet the restraint specs, you can do practically anything
you want, though you'd get the evil eye if it wasn't belts.
                                                                           
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: johnson@wrs.com (David Johnson)
Subject: Re: Turbocharger Rebuild
Keywords: Turbocharger
Organization: Wind River Systems, Inc.
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 01:53:00 GMT

abeaumon@augean.eleceng.adelaide.edu.AU (Andrew Beaumont-Smith) writes:

>shaft has 25 thou play in it. I have read the book by McInnes (?sp) on

I've taken the t3 of my 2002 and have been able to wiggle the shaft till
it touched the housing (maybe that's where the throttle lift smoke was
coming from :-), so I couldn't tell you if 0.025 is acceptable or not.

>turbocharging (HP books) which says 4 thou is normal for floating bearings.
>All other parts (housings, impellers, wastegate, actuator) appear good.
>I spoke to a shop who deals in them, this is what he said:
>1) Rebuild kits are available (at $200) - includes bearings and seals
>   but they are a recent addition and are generally not 100% successful.

Sounds like you're getting reamed.  At Diomond Diesel here in the
SF Bay Area (510 area code), the rebiuld kits are about $100.
Give them a call.

>2) Buy a new guts - cost $800.   [NOT!]
>3) Buy a good second hand unit $450. (how good??)  [NOT EVEN!]

>What is wrong with rebuild kits?

Nothing! They wouldn't make them if there was. 

if the shaft is ok, is it a simple job to replace bearings and seals?.
Is any special equipment required ?

Yes, they are very simple. The only special tools needed are a good pair
of internal ring pliers. Don't worry about screwing up the exhaust housing
bolts when you dissasemble, there are new ones in the rebild kit.
Heat also works wonders on the stuborn little bastards...a nice deep glow :-)
When you get the exhaust housing off the body take the thing down to the
tool store to get the right pair that fit. Don't get the multi-tip ones,
they'll just snap right off.

>Any special things i should look for when i disassemble it?

After you take it all apart, dip the sucker in carb cleaner for a couple
days to loosen up the coked up oil. When you rinse it off, run water through
the oil supply line. Chances are that you'll see two nice streams of water
shooting through to the bearings. If not, prod up through the grove in the
bearing surface with a pick and clean out the line that is now clogged with
coked oil. Basically scrape all the crap out of the thing (it builds up
everywhere. It may look like the metal housing, but give it a scrape, and
it crumbles to dust. Putting back together is a cake walk too :-)
Just don't over or under tighten the impeller nut, and be careful, the
exhaust impeller is as fragile as glass (sounds like the voice of experience:-(

Good luck,

DAVE (johnson@wrs.com)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: thos@suite.sw.oz.au (Thomas Cohen)
Subject: Re: '57 TR3 no engine go jap?
Organization: Softway Pty Ltd
Date: 13 Aug 92 22:47:17 GMT

In <1992Aug12.063427.9552@mr.med.ge.com> hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987) writes:

>saundersb@gtephx.UUCP (Bary Saunders) writes:
>>[Japanese engine in a TR3]

>Keep in mind that some collecter in the future is going to curse you eternally
>if you do anything to structurally modify the car, so that the original, PROPER,

>On a lighter note, there was some guy from South Africa posting here a week or
>so ago about putting Chevy v-8's in Jaguars....perhaps he can help you out with
>info...I personally feel that he is trying to 'improve' the Mona Lisa with
>a crayon, however.

Not necessarily. I agree that a Jag looks like no other, but the 
engine is a pre-1948 design, and whilst fairly high performance,
it is expensive to rebuild, can leak like a sieve and basically
is beaten hands-down by a good small-block. The V8's smaller,
lighter and more powerful. Parts are a damned sight cheaper in 
most places too. Given that you don't need to modify the body at
all, it's a win. Only in a Jaguar saloon though, after 1968.
I would never advocate putting a V8 in any other Jag ('cepting a
Daimler 2.5, but that's another story).


>Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.

regards,
-- 
thos cohen  				       |Softway Pty Ltd
 The best way to make a Japanese engineer wince|ACSnet:         thos@softway.oz
 is (when talking about an NSX) to say slowly  |UUCP: ...!uunet!softway.oz!thos
 'but its _not a Ferrari_ is it?' R.Bulgin, CAR|Internet:    thos@softway.oz.au
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: brownr@hydra.rtp.dg.com (Tall Randy Brown)
Subject: Re: GM pro's out there?
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 92 14:51:56 GMT
Organization: DG-RTP Graphics Group

In article <1992Aug18@loral.com> dss@wdl1.wdl.loral.com (Daryl S Spano) writes:
>
>My speedometer gear to my turbo 350 tranny has 26 teeth.  Because I have
>smaller tires, at 60 MPH my speedo reads 82.  Is there another speedo gear
>with a couple more teeth that I could use.  The dealer is not very helpful.
>
>Just in case you are wondering, there is no problem with my speedo-I went
>to very low profile tires, hence a change in my rolling circumference.

Doesn't take a GM pro.  Go to any speedo shop (look in yellow pages) and
they will put your car on a roller and calibrate your speed.  Then, for
a small additional fee, they will pop in the correct speedo gear.  Worked
for me, I went to a little taller tire, speedo read about 5-6 mph slow, 
switched the gear, works fine.

At a 60 mph correct, 82 mph indicated, you're going to have to go to a speedo
gear with a *lot* more teeth.  They may not be able to put in a gear that will
adjust ~35% by itself, but I'm not sure how much range there is to work with.

Randy
From: Michel_Denber.WBST147@XEROX.COM
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Taurus AC?
Date: 19 Aug 92 19:29:00 GMT


	"Do I need to use R-12 or R-22."

Automotive A/C uses R-12.  R-22 is for household window and central A/C.  The
reason that's all that's left is because everyone's been hoarding R-12 in
anticipation of the Nov. 15 cutoff date for selling the stuff.  Get 'em while
they're hot, uh cold, well, you know.

Got my Celebrity back yesterday.  It was the ~$%#@ crank sensor again.  Second
one in 48K miles.  It's really annoying because it gives zero warning of
impending doom.  It's literally working fine one second and not at all the
next.  And when it goes, the car is dead.  The first one failed on the
expressway in rush hour - that was fun.  Is it just me or has anyone else
experienced early crankshaft sensor deaths?  I think I'm going to start
carrying a spare around with me.  Fortunately, with 48,500 miles I just
squeaked in under the 50K mile emissions warranty, so the repair was free
(including the towing).  Obviously, I wouldn't set foot in the dealer's
otherwise.

			- Michel

denber.wbst147@xerox.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: tgl@slee01.srl.ford.com (Tom Leone)
Subject: Re: SURVEY: Home mech's favs>> newer cars and computer gizmos
Organization: Ford Motor Company Scientific Research Labs, Dearborn, MI
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 16:23:29 GMT

ibe@world.std.com (ira b ekhaus) writes:
: He made the point that if you have a PC, a $200 dollar device can give
: you a very sophisticated home device for diagnosing the newer cars.
: How useful are these devices,  any first hand experiences?

Actually, most cars have a provision for "do-it-yourself"
diagnostics that does not require the expensive equipment.  I
have personal experience with late-model Fords and Chryslers.

Basically, the engine computer is capable of detecting many
kinds of failures like short or open circuits on its sensors, or
coolant temperature not behaving as expected.  When it detects a
failure, it stores an error code in its memory.  If the failure
is bad enough, it also lights up the "check engine" light.

You can recover these error codes from the computer very
easily.  On a Chrysler, just turn the ignition on and off three
times, and it will flash the "check engine" light at you in a
code sequence.  The service manual tells you what each error
code means.  On a Ford, you have to find a certain connector in
the engine compartment, and jumper two wires together.  Then it
will flash the "check engine" light at you (if it has no light,
it flashes a voltage on a third wire of the connector).

Of course, the expensive diagnostic machines are capable of
performing other tests, such as ignition and exhaust emissions.
But for the do-it-yourselfer, these computer error codes are a
big help.

An interesting side note:  Upcoming regulations called "OBD-II"
(On-Board Diagnostics phase II) require standardization of all
error codes and the connector for retrieving them.  I think they
may also require provision for inexpensive retrieval of error
codes as well.  Even if they don't, I would imagine that a cheap
aftermarket probe will become available once everyone is
standardized.

Happy diagnosing!
Tom Leone <tgl@slee01.srl.ford.com>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: drew@ophelia.cs.colorado.edu (Drew Eckhardt)
Subject: Re: Toyota Landcruiser
Keywords: speakers...
Organization: University of Colorado at Boulder
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 08:45:34 GMT

In article <Do0LPB1w164w@cruiser.uucp> bdl@cruiser.uucp (Bob Lombard) writes:
>crs@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Charles Spillman) writes:
>
>> > Mechanically the car's fine except for the speedo cable.  However,
>> > I need some music in the thing.  The previous owner had installed a 
>> > stereo, and I have speakers (2 6x9 ovals, and two cheap surface mounts)
>> > but no place to stick them.
>
>  The best idea I've come up with yet for the speakers is to use
>surface mount speakers in a plywood panel cut to fit below the dash
>OVER the side vents..  You lose the vent action but all they do is
>suck in nice hot engine air anyway....  Rear speakers are standalone
>plywood boxes covered with indoor/outdoor carpet.. commercially available
>as 'kickers' i think.

I found a pair of the enclosures, with the quick-disconnect terminals
on back, came up with a workable removeable system for mounting them,
and can *quickly* remove them whenever I'm in an urban area or it 
starts raining hard.  They appear some what water resistant, and the 
speakers aren't paper cones (Some sort of plastic?), so it could 
be worse.

>  The stereo is in panel mounted in the glovebox.  I've also seen them 
>in a box under the front seat.

Guy who had it before me did one better - he cut appropriate holes in the 
dash where the lower pad is directly over the heater, and mounted the 
stereo there.  It just barely fits, you have to drop the heater to get it out.
There's a piece of black rubber arround the face plate, with the top and 
bottom the same width as the dash pads - looks like it belongs there!

>  You WILL need an amplifier..'Cruisers ain't known for being quiet !:) 

Why would I want to drown out the wonderful sound of a 350 chevy? 

I can see it in a four-cylinder econobox that has that anoying high-pitched
sputtering whine, but with a well tuned chevy delivering a propper 
note through dual exhausts...  

I had been thinking the same thing when I was attaching speaker wires
in my living room, and had to bench test it.  My wallet was 
greatly relieved when I discovered the fader dial, and how much
louder it was when it was all the way to "rear".  First highway drive 
after the installation proved satisfactory - although I did miss the 
engine noise and gear whine.









-- 
Microsoft is responsible for propogating the evils it calls DOS and Windows, 
IBM for AIX (appropriately called Aches by those having to administer it), but neither is as bad as AT&T.  Boycott AT&T, and let them know how you feel.
From: romansks@unvax.union.edu (Steve Romanski)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 90 Escort GT engine race at idle ?
Date: 19 Aug 92 12:21:51 GMT
Article-I.D.: unvax.1992Aug19.122151.6091
Distribution: usa
Organization: Union College, Schenectady, NY

A little additional information. The car has over 60,000 miles hence no 
warrenty. 

I have brought the car to Ford and there is no codes in the computer.

I do tend to believe that the problem probably can't be fixed be
fixed especiall by an "oxy'moron'"  like a 'Ford Mechanic'. :(


----------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: michal+@cs.cmu.edu (Michal Prussak)
Subject: Premium gas to clean engine?
Organization: School of Computer Science, Carnegie Mellon
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 14:24:15 GMT


I am perfectly aware of the fact that using premium gas in an ordinary
engin won't improve performance, but my repair manual ("How to Keep
Your Honda Alive...", an excellent book BTW), says that it's a good
idea to occasionally fill up with premium. They say this will clean 
up the engine (from carbon deposits?). So, what does the net think about
it? 

Michal
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech