HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: brunner@crchh447.bnr.ca (James Brunner)
Subject: [M] Brown algae, new tank, what does this mean?
Reply-To: brunner@crchh447.bnr.ca (James Brunner)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Richardson, Tx
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 14:56:50 GMT

I recently purchased a second-hand marine tank (35 gal hex).  The last of the
previous owner's fish had died about three weeks before he sold the tank.  He
hadn't been feeding it I think.  I didn't add fish until about 3 weeks after
that.  So, six weeks without fish or food.  The tank always had water.

Now, people on the net said that the bio filter was probably dead because of
no ammonia/nitrite to feed on (yes, ammonia and nitrite were at 0 when I 
purchased the tank and stayed that way.

I bought 2 small yellowtail damsels (not much in a 35 gal tank, I think).
I regularly mesured ammonia and nitrite.  It's been 4 weeks and I never saw
any ammonia or nitrite.  Now, a brown algae is starting to form on the rocks
and glass.  Is this an indication that the tank is cycled (maybe the old
bio-filter wasn't dead?).  I havn't been measuring nitrates, maybe I should
start.
-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jim Brunner - (brunner@bnr.ca)
All opinions are my own and have nothing whatsoever to do with BNR, NT,
NTI, Bell Canada, or any of the BCE corporations or affiliates.
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: jason@lanai.cs.ucla.edu (Jason Rosenberg)
Subject: Re: [M] Brown algae, new tank, what does this mean?
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 92 22:22:35 GMT

In my experience, it is perfectly normal to have a bloom of brown algae
after a marine tank has cycled.  This just means that your nitrifying
bacteria have started generating nitrate.  Usually, if you have good
lighting, the brown algae will be superceded by green algae a few
months later, which is also a GOOD sign.  Brown and green algaes are both
beneficial algaes, and are an excellent food source for your fish.  They
are to preferred over the cyano-bacteria algaes (actually, bacteria not
micro-algae) which flourish in under-lit tanks.  Cyano bacterias most commonly
are red or blue-green, and tend to cover everything in a film, suffocating any
other bacteria populations and generally sealing off anearobic areas of
your tank.

If you have strong light, you start getting the "dreaded" hair algae, which
is also mostly healthy, but does tend to damage tank asthetics.

Macro-algaes are probably the most desirable, since they are "plant-like" and
can be arranged asthetically, and look good.  Of course, they too can grow out
of control, but their maintenance is much easier, since you can simply go in
and cut pieces off (whereas you can never completely get algae off of rocks
and gravel and shells, etc...  There are many macro-algaes, most of which
fall under the very general category of Caulerpa species.  I have finally
gotten caulerpa established (as a direct result of my improved lighting).

I always allow a healthy coat of algae to thrive on the back walls of my
tanks, and only remove algae from the front (viewing) glass, once a week,
etc.  If you don't have an ambitious anti-nitrate game-plan, then you
will never completely get rid of them.  Such is ok and fine for a fish
only tank, and crustaceans and anemones (mine, anyway), can do fine
in moderately nitrate (~40ppm) water.  As long as you have nitrates,
you will never get rid of algae.  In fact, since algaes thrive on nitrates,
they do in effect control the buildup of nitrates.  I've found that I have
lowered my nitrate level drastically simply by increasing the lighting.  The
red cyano-bacteria is losing the war and diminishing against the more
healthy micro-algaes.

Anyway, as your tank matures, you will notice different algae populations
come and go.  You will most likely learn to live with at least some algae
and you will come to think of it as asthetic, trust me.....

Jason

-- 
Jason Rosenberg                           Computer Science Department
jason@cs.ucla.edu                         University of California
{uunet,rutgers,ucbvax}!ucla-cs!jason      Los Angeles, CA  90024
-- 
Jason Rosenberg                           Computer Science Department
jason@cs.ucla.edu                         University of California
{uunet,rutgers,ucbvax}!ucla-cs!jason      Los Angeles, CA  90024
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:4891 rec.aquaria:7087
From: faith@wam.umd.edu (Jay)
Subject: Re: Need sick oscar help.
Organization: University of Maryland, College Park
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 13:33:26 GMT

In article <1992Sep2.172845.6457@iscsvax.uni.edu> nissen6318@iscsvax.uni.edu writes:
>  Hello Zim,
>
>I have some experience with ciclids and think I can help you out.
>
>First you will want to do at least a 50% water change.
Won't this put the fish under more stress than he's allready under?

>lower that chances that poor water conditions are contributing to the 
>problem.  In changing the water DO NOT CLEAN THE UGF. 
Could this be where most of the bacteria lie? 
> 
>Then you will want to raise the temp of the tank slowly two or three degrees.
>This will raise the matablation of the fish and improve its appetite.
You should also make sure you put more oxygen in the tank. Higher temps will
not hold oxygen as well as cold water.

>
>If you are using a medication be sure to remove any charcoal from any
>and all filters.
>
>If the problem does not start to clear in a week or so raise it with another
>teaspoon per gallon.  Don't worry this is very helpful and should clear up
>your problem.
>
>If you have any questions vax me and I will get back to you.
>Hope this is helpful.
>     
>                  Brian Nissen


Just thought I'ld ask a few questions ........ Jay

Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: bednarek@picard.med.ge.com (Dennis Bednarek Mfg 4-6971)
Subject: Re: Some questions...
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 92 07:59:41 GMT


I cannot agree more with the prior post.  At one point I had at least
30 tanks set up in my basement (wife wouldn't have them upstairs) and
spent about a 1/2 hour a day on maintance, pluss once a month I would
take the worst tank and strip clean it.  During that time I was selling
plants, and angel fish to several aquarium stores.  While prices have
gone up I never hadf much more than $60.00 invested in each tank.
Basic 30 gallon tank     $30.00
Heater                   $08.00
Florescent light fixture $10.00
Air stone and tubing     $05.00
Gravel                   $05.00

If your using only one or two tanks add an air pump, I had mine on a 1/2
hp compressor, with an air tank. 

Minimum work, minimum investment, and maximum enjoyment.


--

  
###############################################################################
###NEVER - NEVERMORE###########################################################
###############################################################################
####################################What are the contents of the oblong box?##
###############################################################################
  The usual disclaimer of self and employer applies to all above comments.
#
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: bhaskar@brtph598.bnr.ca (Shaji Bhaskar)
Subject: Re: [F] Setup for plants and fish
Organization: Bell Northern Research Inc.
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 21:11:12 GMT

In article <1992Aug26.183536.14959@cis.uab.edu> patton@phy.uab.edu writes:
>In article 19094@kong.gsfc.nasa.gov, mstephens.520@postman.gsfc.nasa.gov (mark stephens) writes:

>>The comment I hear the most is "they just die on me" or "I can't keep
>>'em alive in my tank".  Plants are therefore "hard to grow".  What
>>they should be saying is "I don't know a thing about keeping aquarium
>>plants, much less aquariums!" Sigh.

>
>It is also true that some fish are incompatible with plants.  Unless the only
>purpose of having the real plants in the tank is as a food source for the fish.
>I have seen many tanks with well secured plastic plants that look much better
>than tanks with no plants at all.


Although I am a plant enthusiast (and I have my TAG membership to
prove it), I think plastic plants do have their place even when kept
with fish that do not disturb plants.

With five or six well-chosen pieces of driftwood and plastic plants,
it is quite easy to create an inexpensive, impressive 55 gallon
display tank that requires very little maintenance.

There beauty in simplicity.  Simplicity is however, not easily
acheived or maintained in tank with live plants, as dense planting is
important to success.

That having been said, I must also say that a well-planned and
carefully maintained tank full of live plants looks infinitely better
than a tank with plastic plants.

-Shaji.
-- 
Shaji Bhaskar     BNR, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709     (bhaskar@bnr.ca)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Coral Reef Filtration
From: selig@sysjj.mdcbbs.com
Date: 26 Aug 92 10:26:29 GMT
Followup-To: alt.aquaria
Organization: McDonnell Douglas M&E, Cypress CA
Nntp-Posting-User: sf004sf03

>   Sailfin Tang, Royal Gramma, Blue Damsel, Cleaner Wrasse, Hermit Crab
> 
          Hi.  This is my first time in news.  I'm Dan Selig.  I work
          in technical client services for Unigraphics.

          I just had my 55 gallon reef rebuilt.  It has a Fluval and a
          protein skimmer.  It also has a system of tubing lining the
          bottom of the inside of the tank.  The tubes have small
          holes that point up.  An immersible power head
          circulates water through this system and so keeps the water
          on the bottom of the tank from getting stale.

          This, I believe, is a big reason why my new reef is so
          healthy.  Also, I faithfully change 15 gallons every two
          weeks.

          The tang, gramma, and wrasse should be very compatible.  I
          don't like damsels because they are so territorial and
          pugnacious.  I think crabs can be trouble as they might eat
          all of your corals.

          Dan
From: IDBXS@ASUACAD.BITNET (Bryan Schreiber)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Hair Algae
Date: 2 Sep 92 20:30:43 GMT
Organization: Arizona State University

Hi

I have a 55 Gallon Reef Tank, with several inverts. and soft corals. Recently
I have been having a problem keeping as some people call it Hair algae from
growing, the algae is green and grows on the live rocks in the tank. I have
tried everything from adding chemicals that are suppose to stop algae grow, to
recently using bottled water when I do my water changes.
Does anyone know of a sure fire way to get rid of this algae, which will be
safe for the corals and inverts.


Thanks

Bryan
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: livings@unislc.uucp (Ross Livingston)
Subject: Re: Set up question
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Organization: Unisys Corporation SLC
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 06:05:37 GMT

Sorry for the second post.  I got an error the first time and posted again.
Well, both worked and now I can't cancel either.

-- 
Ross Livingston, Unisys Corp.  |  Phone   (801) 594-6217
322 North  2200 West,   D1V03  |  Fax     801-594-4861 / 801-594-6708
Salt Lake City, UT   84116     |  E-Mail  livings@unislc.slc.unisys.com
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:4718 rec.aquaria:6766
From: mstephens.520@postman.gsfc.nasa.gov (mark stephens)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: DI water and Bugs (from sci.aquaria)
Date: 25 Aug 92 20:57:38 GMT
Organization: nasa/gsfc


 Looks like I'm going to skip the orange juice made from DI water.
It still makes a damn fine cup of coffee!

A question though... Does not the rejuve treatement of hydrochloric
acid and caustic soda (each used on one of the two units) kill any 
bacteria present.  I currently have to do this about every other 
month for the Kati/Ani units I have.  I assume the lab has a huge
(3000 GALLONS per day!!!) unit to make so much DI water for three
months.  On the other hand, bacteria can populate very rapidly given
the right conditions, as you well know (grin).

              mark


In article <1992Aug25.162839.26539@noose.ecn.purdue.edu>, tom@dynamo.ecn.purdue.edu (Tom McCain) writes:
> 
> 
> WARNING!!!  DO NOT DRINK DI WATER!!!
> 
> 	When you remove all of the ions from the water to make "DI", you
> remove the chlorine that usually suppresses bacterial growth.  There are
> some very primitive bacteria that can flourish inside DI water systems,

                  [.....]

> 	In summary, DI water is good for cleaning silicon wafers, BOILED
> coffee, make-up water, and probably good starting material for making
> salt water.  But it can also harbor some nasty surprises!
> 
> 		From an occasional reader,
> 
>  			Tim			miller@ecn.purdue.edu
> --
> 
> Tom McCain 
> tom@ecn.purdue.edu
> 
>
From: cowan@aqua.ocunix.on.ca (Darin Cowan (root))
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: Aquaclear in Marine Aquarium
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 92 17:49:43 GMT
Organization: The Aquarium, Ottawa, Ontario

faith@wam.umd.edu (Jay) writes:

> I am about to move back to school and I am taking my aquarium with me (75 gal
> I also have a 29 gal but that is staying at home. I want to start a marine 
> aquarium but I want to spend as less money as possible. I have a 300 Aquaclea
> filter.  Will this be good enough to sustain life?  I would hate to have my f
> die. I didn't want to spend alot on a filter.

I use an aquaclear 300 on my 50 gallon freshwater.  They're rated for 300 gph,
so you should be OK, but it's a bit light IMO.  The box says they're good for
up to 150 gal tanks.


==============================================================================
                      cowan@aqua.ocunix.on.ca
  The Aquarium BBS  (613)736-1481  2400-14400 bps  V.32bis  V.42bis  HST
==============================================================================
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:4807 rec.aquaria:6942
From: tom@dynamo.ecn.purdue.edu (Tom McCain)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [M] Brown algae, new tank, what does this mean?
Date: 31 Aug 92 18:13:27 GMT
Organization: Purdue University, West Lafayette, IN

brunner@crchh447.bnr.ca (James Brunner) writes:


: I regularly mesured ammonia and nitrite.  It's been 4 weeks and I never saw
: any ammonia or nitrite.  Now, a brown algae is starting to form on the rocks
: and glass.  Is this an indication that the tank is cycled (maybe the old
: bio-filter wasn't dead?).  I havn't been measuring nitrates, maybe I should
: start.

I'd say if you can't measure any nitrites the tank has cycled.  How
much light do you have over the tank?  You may not have enough light
so you are getting brown algae.  Yes, check your nitrates.
--

Tom McCain 
tom@ecn.purdue.edu
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:4820 rec.aquaria:6970 sci.aquaria:1313
From: derrick@meaddata.com (Derrick Tatem)
Subject: Wet/Dry Filters vs Power Filters
Organization: Mead Data Central, Dayton OH
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 14:45:32 GMT
Distribution: na

Greetings aquaria fans. 

Can anyone give me some pros and cons on Wet/Dry Filter vs Power Filters?
 
 1. On the subject of Wet/Dry Filters, what are the purpose of the bio-balls?
    a. what are they made of and why are they needed?

 2. Which one does a better job in terms of cleaning the water, removing
    harmful waste, nitrates ..etc . I would guess the Wet/Dry Filter
    is the much better one, but actually how does it work?
 
Thanks in advance for your help. Please email if possible. 


-- 
Derrick M. Tatem
Mead Data Central, Dayton, Ohio
Internet: derrick@meaddata.com
UUCP:     !uunet!meaddata!derrick
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: u920065@postoffice.utas.edu.au (Tim O'Neill)
Subject: New tropical fish club
Organization: University of Tasmania (Australia)
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 05:46:09 GMT

We have started up a new tropical and cold water fish club for Tasmania.
If anyone is interested contact Cheryl Lee on u920065@postoffice.utas.edu.au
and we will send details of whats involved and when the next meeting is.
			Also if anyone has any sugestions on running the club feel free to mail
us.


Cheryl Lee

(using Dean's account)

u950065@postoffice.utas.edu.au

(-:
From: ross@foxmoor.dab.ge.com (mark ross)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: [M] Horse-shoe Crab
Date: 31 Aug 92 22:38:39 GMT
Organization: GE Aerospace

I have a 35 gal. high with some live rocks and a Hawaiian 
Red Lobster.  I am thinking of adding a horse-shoe crab 
because I have heard that they do an excellent job at 
keeping the bottom algae-free.  

     Any comments or experiences with these little guys?

Mark Ross
(ross@sunny.dab.ge.com)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: Wet/Dry Filters vs Power Filters
From: selig@sysjj.mdcbbs.com
Date: 28 Aug 92 13:35:46 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: McDonnell Douglas M&E, Cypress CA
Nntp-Posting-User: selig

          >  1. On the subject of Wet/Dry Filters, what are the
          purpose of the bio-balls?  What are they made of and why
          are they needed?

          They're made of plastic and all they do is provide a lot of
          surface for beneficial bacteria to grow.

          >  2. Which one does a better job in terms of cleaning the
          water, removing harmful waste, nitrates ..etc . I would
          guess the Wet/Dry Filter is the much better one, but
          actually how does it work?

          The wet/dry runs water past bacteria (biological filtration
          yay!) By itself, the wet/dry is not enough.  It should be
          preceded by a protein skimmer.

          Dan
From: nissen6318@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: RE: Need sick oscar help.
Date: 2 Sep 92 17:28:45 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

  Hello Zim,

I have some experience with ciclids and think I can help you out.

First you will want to do at least a 50% water change.  This will
lower that chances that poor water conditions are contributing to the 
problem.  In changing the water DO NOT CLEAN THE UGF.  You don't want to 
disturb the biological filter with a sick fish present. 
 
Then you will want to raise the temp of the tank slowly two or three degrees.
This will raise the matablation of the fish and improve its appetite.

If you are using a medication be sure to remove any charcoal from any
and all filters.

Then after the water temp is raised and balanced add two teaspoons per gallon
of plain salt.  Be sure it is not iodized salt as this will be harmful.
It is common practice to use plain salt with ciclid water.  I keep a two
teaspoons of salt per gallon in all my ciclid tanks all the time with great
success.  If you are currently using salt, simply raise it by two teaspoons
per gallon.

If the problem does not start to clear in a week or so raise it with another
teaspoon per gallon.  Don't worry this is very helpful and should clear up
your problem.

If you have any questions vax me and I will get back to you.
Hope this is helpful.
     
                  Brian Nissen

From: booth@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (George Booth)
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 20:10:18 GMT
Subject: Re: (FW) on UGFs and plants
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria

In alt.aquaria, mstephens.520@postman.gsfc.nasa.gov (mark stephens) writes:

    Now if George fires back that is UGF plant tank has nitrates
    higher than 50 ppm, we can scratch number 2!

                   mark

The highest it has been lately is 35 ppm.  It's now down in the 10's.

Keep in mind that we have 2 UGF tanks - the 85 g is CO2 injected and
supports all the lush plant growth anyone could hope for.  The 55 g
is not CO2 injected and shows a little plant growth, but not very much. 
If it weren't for the excellent growth in the 85, I would probably 
subscribe to the aquarium myth of "plants don't like UGF".  I agree 
with Mark - people with UGFs are usually beginners and don't have 
good plant growth because of other factors - poor lighting, poor
plant nutrition and/or poor choice of plants for their conditions. 

What is surprising is that the 55 g tank has the best Cryptocoryne growth
of all the tanks. 

We "refurbished" the 55 this weekend and have replanted most of the 
crypts.  We tossed a large bunch of Myriophyllum ("ambulia") that grew
OK but tended to collect smear algae.  Some Echinodorus cordifolia was
tossed - it didn't grow.  Three of four E. bleheri were tossed - they
seem to have suffered Pleco damage.  A giant Java Fern was tossed - 
Pleco damage and algae.  Four large clumps of Anubias nana were also
tossed. 

After removing all the plants, the gravel was *very* thoroughly vacuumed - 
this tank gets the short end of the stick, maintenance-wise and the gravel
was very crudded up.  After cleaning, we added a bunch of petrified wood 
for decoration and replanted the crypts - C. willisii, C. wendtii and 
C. affinis. 

All the crypts had very long roots - 8-12" in a few cases.  We decided
to plant just crypts to see if they would continue to grow well in
this tank (especially after the "brutal" cleaning).  Also, a recent
article in _The_Aquatic_Gardener_ suggested that crypts and Anubias
don't "get along well" together.  We'll see. 

------
George
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:4760 rec.aquaria:6840
From: bj368@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Mike E. Romano)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Spirulina
Date: 4 Sep 1992 04:29:16 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


I have a rather ordinary aquarium with pretty ordinary fish
at this point.
But I do like to feed them well.
This  spirulina food really seems to perk them up.
I have heard this is just an ordinary algae than can be grown
easily. It certainly is expensive to buy.
I am wondering if anyone out there grows their own algae 
for their fish and how it is done.
-- 
            Mike Romano     Univ. Calif. Berkeley
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: mdc@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (barbara.guerin)
Subject: alkalinity/dKH
Keywords: dKH
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 17:33:45 GMT


I am looking for opinions on the following products
to bring the dKH or alkalinity of my 55gal reef up.
I have never used any buffer before and was wondering
if any of the products are good or bad.  Do they
add phophates to the tank?  Are any of them more
complete than baking soda. I have heard some
products also make the skimmer foam more is that
true of any of the following products?
Seachem, Coralife, Thiel.

Post pros and cons on Net as I use
a co-workers login.

Thanks
Dana

Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria