HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: srussell@lynx.msc.cornell.edu.UUCP (Stephen Russell,147 Bard,54648,)
Subject: Re: Our image as brewers
Originator: srussell@snoopy.msc.cornell.edu
Organization: Cornell-Materials-Science-Center
Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1993 21:50:18 GMT

From article <9510@verdix.verdix.com>, by mark@verdix.com (Mark Lundquist):
> Folks, I am concerned about the image that we project to new readers
> of r.c.b and the Digest.  

[stuff deleted]

> Yes, I'm talking about the fact that two of the regular posters to
> these forums have the usernames "gak" and "arf".  Are these the words
> that we want others to associate with homebrewing and homebrewed beer?
> I am sure you will agree that they aren't very appealing.  "Hey,
> would you like to try some of my homebrew?..."  "Gak!! Arf!"

[more stuff deleted]

> Just something to think about.

[no stuff deleted here, though]

> Happy brewing!
> --mark

This is something I _have_ been thinking about, and now that you mention it,
"Lund Kwysst" means (literally) "One Who Expels Beer From Nostrils While
Drinking".  So I suggest that in your quest to cleanse r.c.b. you should
first look to yourself.  I think going so far as a legal name change might
be warranted.

Gak! Arf! Snort! Pfft! Ack!

STEVE
From: drumm@cnsvax.uwec.edu (Danny)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: a tad bit of cooking oil
Date: 12 Jan 93 23:26:37 GMT
Organization: University of Wisconsin Eau Claire

In article <jdecarlo.544.726846766@mitre.org>, jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo) writes:
> In article <1993Jan11.164607.3072@cnsvax.uwec.edu>
>  drumm@cnsvax.uwec.edu (Danny) writes:
> 
>>I think I have just a pinch of oil in my just bottled beer.
>>also, I must have lost a lot of my priming sugar along the way
>>because I get almost no fiz (and the oil must have what little 
>>head there would have been.)
> 
> You get no "fiz"?  How did you prime and what ingredients did you use?  A 
> little more information is needed.

I used 3/4 cup of corn sugar in a few cups of water into which I racked
my primary before bottling..  I thought perhaps that it did not ferment 
out yet, but I have the same carbonation after a week.

Can/should I reopen the bottles and add a concentrated corn sugar solution?
how 'bout just filling up the carboy with the bottled beer, and start 
bottling all over again (perhaps the oil will stay more on the top this time)

Thanks for your opinions.

-- Dan
From: gummitch@techbook.com (Jeff Frane)
Subject: Re: All Grain Recipes/FAQ needed!
Organization: TECHbooks --- Public Access UNIX --- (503) 220-0636
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 00:07:13 GMT

hasn@midway.uchicago.edu (Sheheryar Hasnain) writes:

>Hi
>
I have one problem though:  I cannot open
>any of cats meow stuff and so have only a handful
>of all-grain recipes (Papazian's book).  Also Papazian
>does not go into the all grain stuff in much detail.
>Is there an all grain FAQ or book that deals primarily
>with all-grain brewing?  I heard that Zymurgy has
>an all grain issue that Chicago's Alternative Garden
>supplies sells for $8.50.  Is it a good issue?  I've
>also heard that Millers "handbook" is good for 
>all-grain.  Is that true?  The reason I'm asking this
>is because the Chicago area brewing stores are 
>pretty far and I only do mailordering from them.
>Should I order the above two?  Could someone
>send me their copy of the recipe list for all grain
>from cats meow?  And any other good stuff
>they have about all-grain brewing?

The all-grain issue (from 1988, I think) is an extremely valuable source
of information about all-grain brewing but I don't think it's going to
provide you with a lot of recipes.  Your best shot would probably be to
pick up the issue of Zymurgy (or, hey, get a subscription!) that
contained the winning recipes from this year's national competition;
most of those are all-grain recipes.  Miller's handbook does contain a
lot of all-grain recipes, and there are those that swear by his work.

My own advice to beginning all-grain brewers is the same I give to
beginning extract brewers.  Start with a very basic ale recipe and
concentrate on getting that right.  Then vary the mix by changing the
specialty malts and lowering/raising hop additions.  

The greatest value in the all-grain issue, to my thinking, is in Gary
Bauer's article on the raw ingredients in all-grain brewing.  His
article contains a chart which explains the use of each of various malts
and grains including enough information on color, etc. to plug into a
spreadsheet.  In conjunction with his other chart on beerstyles, their
color, hbu's, and flavor elements, you can create your own recipes.

--Jeff Frane

PS.  Chicago has a very active and apparently excellent homebrew club --
you should contact them.

-- 
gummitch@techbook.COM  Public Access UNIX at (503) 220-0636 (1200/2400) 


Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: makortoff@camins.camosun.bc.ca
Subject: Need Your Advice! Please!
Organization: Camosun College
Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1993 21:37:23 GMT

Hello there!

I am new to brewing and just found this newsgroup on the net.  About three
months ago I made a batch of beer using a kit called Barons!  Well I am not
sure if the kit is bad or I screwed up along the way, but I am drinking the
beer now and it has a serious chemical after taste!  I think this might be
caused by the heading agent I was told to use in my batch.  Well for my first
time it was not bad I suppose but durring the three months my beer was in
bottles I was spending some time in Czechoslovakia where I drank some of the
best beer I have ever tasted!  This leaves me with some questions for the more
experienced:

1.) Is the chemical after taste due to the heading agent or maybe the
sterilizer?
  
2.) How do I get a really good head on a beer without using a heading agent 
and not poping the caps of the bottles?
(the beer in Czechoslovakia had the creamiest foam I have ever seen!)

3.) I would like to make a dark beer that is not really bitter but a bit more
on the sweet side! Could you recomend a recipe or tell me were I can get one?

4.) Are the kits such as barons good or does everyone start their batch from
scratch?  Is their somewhere to get the low down on the good and bad kits out
there?

Please e-mail me or post it here!!

Thanks in advance,
Myles
Makortoff@camins.camosun.bc.ca

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: scimeddd@gpu.utcs.utoronto.ca (Library of Sciences and Medicine Document Delivery)
Subject: Re: exploding bucket
Organization: UTCS Public Access
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 18:05:10 GMT

I just started brewing a stout this past weekend and had similar
problems. The brew wasn't satisfied to expel through the blow off
hose and kept popping off the lid. I had to clean the top and sides
of the bucket 3 times as each successive attempt to maintain an air
lock failed.
I finally took pipe clamps used to carpentry and clamped the lid onto
the bucket. The blow off hose sounded like an angry cat. But I think
that there is little chance of the batch going bad. I was careful to
used a sanitized cloth to wipe everything and to make sure that the
seal wasn't gummed up with wort which might provide a path for baterial
infection.
When i first started brewing I didn't use an airlock but simply rested
the lid on the bucket without fully sealing it. I think with the
enthusiasm that the yeast has shown to propagate it would be difficult
for another aerobic infection to take hold. (fingers crossed)

scimeddd@gpu.utcs.utoronto.edu
(or mark to humans)
From: sayre@bird (Kirk Sayre)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Police Hassles in Brewing
Date: 8 Jan 1993 16:54:46 GMT
Organization: CSIS American University
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: bird.cas.american.edu

I've noticed the effects of police on homebrewing efforts myself.  I
wanted to brew a sweet stout, so I asked the owner of the shop where I
get my ingredients for some lactose.  He said that he didn't carry it
because it wasn't worth the hassle.  It seems that the drug pushers
mix lactose with heroin or cocaine, so as to have more to sell to hard
drug using morons.  The owner of the shop said that the police
investigate stores that sell lactose to see if they are involved in
heroin or cocaine.

Therefore I did not make a sweet stout.

                                        Cheers,
					         Kirk Sayre


Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: tjdalton@athena.mit.edu (Transitive NightFall of Diamonds)
Subject: Re: Wheat-beer yeast
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 21:46:17 GMT

garnett@refuge.Colorado.EDU (Santiago de la Paz) writes:
>Does anyone have a list (or just know of) commercially-available wheat beers 
>from which it is possible to culture yeast?  I have tried several times to 
>culture yeast from Ayinger, and once from Tucher, with no success.

I know Paulaner pasteurizes its wheat beer before shipping it to the US.
Its possible that many do, so the yeast in the bottom may be dead.
Also, some breweries ferment weiss with special 'weiss yeast', but
add lager yeast to the speise (priming wort for weiss bier) at bottling
time....thus, even if successful, you may be culturing the wrong yeast.

Wyeast and MeV both sell strais of weiss bier yeast...

Heres to the many yummy complex phenolic overtones of good
German WeissBier.  My personal favorite for now is
Augustiner Weiss, from the AugustinerKeller in Munchen.

	Tim
----
Timothy J. Dalton                                   tjdalton@mit.edu
MIT, Dept. of Chemical Engineering, Materials Etching Technology Lab

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: us279764@mmm.serc.3m.com (Philip . Miller)
Subject: Re: KETTLE MASHING
Organization: 3M Company
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 93 20:16:32 GMT

>> So, Jack your rather pointed barb at Papazian's book missed the mark
>> completely.  You really ought to read it sometime.
>
>
>Not completely.  If I changed the name to KETTLE SPARGING, it would fix
>the oversight but would then leave out the advantages of mashing in the
>kettle.  Perhaps you could help me come up with a different title
>instead of invoking the Bilderbergers.

I didn't realize that it was my job to help you title your
articles.  ;-)

But seriously, Jack, why DO you think so many homebrewers mash in 
picnic coolers?  You used to claim it was because of Papazian's
influence.  What are your thoughts now?

>The fundamental advantage over Papazian's approach is that he drops the
>ball after mashing.

I assure you, the chapter on all grain brewing doesn't end after
the mash out.

And I stand by my first posting:  You really ought to read TCNJOHB.  If
for no other reason than to give you a common sociological background
with your fellow homebrewers.  Kind of like reading _The Catcher in the
Rye_ in high school.  ;-)

Phil

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: dougd@uts.amdahl.com (Douglas DeMers)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Chimay Rouge (was Re: Wheat-beer yeast ( I goofed!))
Date: 12 Jan 93 17:47:14 GMT
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

In <1993Jan11.162445.10333@msc.cornell.edu> bickham@lynx.msc.cornell.edu.UUCP 
(Scott Bickham,C17 Clark Hall,56079,2737038) follows up to his own posting:
>From article <1993Jan11.160332.9857@msc.cornell.edu>, by bickham@lynx.msc.cornell.edu.UUCP (Scott Bickham,C17 Clark Hall,56079,2737038):

>Scott (bickham@lynx.msc.cornell.edu.UUCP) wrote:
>> The problem there is that most wheat beers are bottle-conditioned with
>> a lager yeast, which doesn't include the Brettanomyces strain responsible
>> for the characteristic banana esters and clove phenolics.  I just made
>> two batches with the Wyeast strain, and the results were disappointing
>> also.  I have heard of good success with Chimay Rouge yeast, so I plan
>> to give that a try next time.

>There is not Brett. used in making weizens - the cloviness comes from
>a species of saccharomyces - S. Delbruckii - which is used in addition to
>S. Cerevesiae.  Sorry for the confusion.

Also, lest there be any confusion, Chimay Rouge is _not_ a weizen.
While the yeast from a Chimay Rouge _may_ produce the banana esters and
clove phenolics, it is _not_ a weizen yeast.  Both weisen and Belgian
Ale yeasts are available to homebrewers as pure strain liquid yeast -
I've had good success with the Wyeast 3056 - YMMV, of course.

BTW- my experience with bottle culturing from the dregs of Chimay Rouge
produced a beer of very similar characteristics to the Chimay Rouge
"mother".  I bought two bottles of Chimay Rouge, keeping the unopened
companion bottle for a later side-by-side.  A year later, I noticed
that the character of my Chimay Rouge clone was changing - becoming
more tart - so I knew it was time to finish drinking the bottles I'd
carefully saved.  I chose that opportunity to do the side-by-side with
the original.  Whatever the infection was, it was also there in the 
bottle from the Abbey.  It was beginning to taste more like a lambik.
 
I do look forward to trying my Tripel made with Wyeast Belgian Ale
yeast.
-- 
Douglas DeMers,      | (408-746-8546) | dougd@uts.amdahl.com
Amdahl Corporation   |                | {sun,uunet}!amdahl!dougd
  [It should be obvious that the opinions above are mine, not Amdahl's.]
  [               Amdahl makes computers, not beer.                    ]
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Subject: Airlocks (was Re: low temperatures)
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean  VA
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 13:44:34 GMT

In article <uohmekc@zola.esd.sgi.com> arthur@sgi.com (Arthur Evans) writes:

>One thing to consider here is that when your beer cools down, the 
>co2 in the headspace will contract, creating a vaccum and sucking
>the water from your airlock into your beer.

This depends on the type of airlock you use.  If you use the S-shaped 
airlock, gas can bubble each way without fear of water going in or out.  I 
see this all the time when I prepare my starter.  After boiling the wort 
and the bottle, I put the boiling wort in the bottle and put the airlock 
on.  It sucks in air as it cools down, but doesn't suck in any water from 
the airlock.  When it cools enough, I pitch the yeast.  Then CO2 starts 
coming out.  Works just fine.

John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own
Fidonet:  1:109/131  Internet:  jdecarlo@mitre.org
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: costley@solo.eng.hou.compaq.com (Brett Costley)
Subject: easy specific gravity?
Organization: Compaq Computer Corp.
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 22:30:44 GMT

Over Christmas break I visited the biology lab where my sister works.  She
was mixing up some salt water for some of her sea anemones.  To check if 
she had the right salinity she used this nifty little device.  I checked
it out and noticed that it read both salinity and specific gravity.  It
was basically just a tube with a eyepiece on one end and a plastic part
one the other where you just sprinkled a few drops of the water.  You 
then looked through the eyepiece and an easy to read line would tell you
the salinity/specific gravity.  I don't know how much one would cost or 
even if the thing would actually work with wort/beer or not but it would
certainly be a lot easier to use than the cylinder and float.  I 
unfortunately cannot borrow one from her to try it out with beer since 
she lives 900 miles away.  I could see if she can find out how much they 
cost and if she could get me one.  Has anyone ever seen anything like this
before?
From: dharkins@papillon.ucsd.edu (Dan Harkins)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Sumerian Beer recipe
Date: 4 Jan 1993 23:40:27 GMT
Organization: University of California, San Diego
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: papillon.ucsd.edu

In <2131120a72@ofa123.fidonet.org> darren@ofa123.fidonet.org(Darren Hanson)
writes about the Sumerian Beer from Anchor Steam:

> About a month ago there was a thread about this and I believe 
> somebody even provided the recipe. I've lost my copy, but there
> might be some kind soul out there who has a copy that would
> resend it out to the newsgroup.... (pretty please?)
>
> __                  __
> \/  Darren Hanson   \/

OK, since you said please (and since I'm such a kind soul :-)) here is my
copy:

  Beer recipe described in cuniform hymn brewed by Anchor in SF

  -bread (bappir) from barley, roasted barley, malted barley and honey
  -Original Gravity: 11.1 Plato
  -Final Gravity: 2.6 apparent
  -alcohol: 3.5 %/wgt
  -mashed with typical "upward infusion" mashing temperatures
  -syrup of dates added to final mash
  -wort not boiled
  -wort cooled quite gradually to simulate lack of modern cooling
  -pitched with a standard top fermenting yeast
 
  Anyone desiring further technical information may write or call 
  the brewery in San Francisco.  (415) 863-8350


I've called the Brewery and they promised to send me a packet describing
this, but I've yet to receive it. Let us know if you try this recipe!

Dan Harkins
dharkins@ucsd.edu
From: dparsons@plasma.ps.uci.edu ()
Subject: Regards to Dark Beer
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8]
Date: 7 Jan 93 21:12:34 GMT

This is in response to the guys that asked about Dark Beers, that is to 
say, The Reason Beers Are Dark.  I noticed that nobody answered your
question so I am about to break the code of Brewmiester and tell you.

There is a ritual that is held over brew ingrediants where the hops,
(that's the little critters that look like caterpillars.) are streched
out on a pyre and burnt until they stop screaming.  This of course makes
them a darker brown than thier original green.  Then when the guys are 
added to the wort they make it browner than it's original clear.

Alot of people frown on this sort of thing and often run around breaking 
up the hop roasts and some of the hops don't get as burnt as they should.
When these are used the beer won't be as brown as a full on, long drawn 
out hops pyre beer.

I hope this helps. :)

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Subject: Re: All Grain Recipes/FAQ needed!
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean  VA
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 17:23:47 GMT

In article <1993Jan4.164956.4106@midway.uchicago.edu>
 hasn@midway.uchicago.edu (Sheheryar Hasnain) writes:

>I cannot open
>any of cats meow stuff and so have only a handful
>of all-grain recipes (Papazian's book).

What do you mean?  You can't decompress the .Z files or you can't print the 
PostScript or what?

>  Also Papazian
>does not go into the all grain stuff in much detail.
>Is there an all grain FAQ or book that deals primarily
>with all-grain brewing?

Check out Miller's _The_Complete_Handbook_Of_Home_Brewing_.  There are 
plenty of others used, such as Noonan's book, but since I don't do all-grain 
yet you will have to rely on other's recommendations.

Overall I find the Miller's is much better than Papazian's for good theory 
and practice, though I like both.

John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own
Fidonet:  1:109/131  Internet:  jdecarlo@mitre.org
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From:  (David Ingham)
Subject: Re: Source:  Where to get a large kettle?
Organization: Beer R Us
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 14:32:00 GMT
Followup-To: rec.crafts.brewing

In article <C0JrH0.Kvs@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu>,
trwagner@bronze.ucs.indiana.edu (Me!! Ted.) wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 	Where can one get a large enough kettle to brew a 5 gallon
> batch of mead/brew?  I have tried local stores.  I have seen a
> few 23 quart kettles and pots around my little city.  However,
> that only leaves about 3/4 of a gallon of safety.  (5.75 gal cap.).
> 	What is a safe size kettle for a 5 gallon batch?  Should
> I go ahead and fork over $30 for a 23 gal. Stainless kettle?  Or,
> hold out and try to find a canning kettle?  (And,where does one
> aquire one in a reasonable amount of time (2-3 weeks)?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Ted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
>          Swallowing your pride rarely leads to indigestion.
>          A hard thing about business is minding your own!
> -trwagner@bronze.ucs.indiana.edu   &    trwagner@kiwi.ucs.indiana.edu-
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------

Look in your yellow pages for a restaurant supply store.  The should have a
variety of pots.

*************************************************
* David Ingham  *   Place wacky signature here  *
*************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: james@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (James White)
Subject: Re: Help on a stout bottling time
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 14:40:17 GMT
Reply-To: JamesWhite@vnet.ibm.com
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM Rochester

In article <C0M2Iv.C3v@ucunix.san.uc.edu>, raismana@ucunix.san.uc.edu (Neal A Raisman) writes:
|>   I could use some help please on a stout I am making.  I mixed up a batch
|>   of 9 lbs. American of dark unhopped extract in a recipe calling for 6 lbs.
|>   to change the taste etc.  Added hops and various barleys to flavor.  
|>   Starting sq was 1.061.  It has fermented for two weeks.  Rapid at first,
|> BAbut now rather slow, if at all.  SQ was measuerd at 1.023 tonight.  It is 
|>   sitting safely at 70 degrees.  My question is, should I think it is a
|>   stuck batch since it seems to have stopped fermenting or should I believe it
|>   has fermented as far as it will?  If stuck, any recommedation on what to use
|>   to unstick it?
|> 

I just bottled an oatmeal stout that had a final specific gravity of 1.022 at 70 degrees.
I didn't consider this excessive since in my opinion the stout tends to have more 
unfermentables in it.

|> D
|> D
|> D
|> D
|>   rather slow, if any now.  SQ is now 1.023.  It is sitting at 760 degrees.

My guess is to go ahead and bottle it.

This is the second stout that I have made so I am certainly not an expert, but I thought
I would at least pass this along.

-- 

James White 
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jeq@i88.isc.com (Jonathan E. Quist)
Subject: Re: KETTLE MASHING
Organization: Lachman Technology, Incorporated, Naperville, IL
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 15:33:00 GMT

In article <C0LL3o.3oH@ddsw1.mcs.com> arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) writes:
> If one sentance (not paragraph) in an otherwise interesting 
> and appropriate article is objectionable, the editor's 
> function is simply to "edit" it out.

Makes sense.

> You are making a mountain out of a molehill.

Or perhaps making a Mouli from a MaltMill....
-- 
Jonathan E. Quist                              Lachman Technology, Incorporated
jeq@i88.isc.com  '71 CL450-K4 "Gleep", DoD #094        Naperville, IL
 __       There's nothing quite like the pitter-patter of little feet,
 \/                   followed by the words "Daddy!  Yay!"
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: sex@chopin.udel.edu (Martin Solo Schamis)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: dark beer
Date: 7 Jan 93 01:13:27 GMT
Organization: University of Delaware

I am not sure if this has been covered before in this newsgroup or not,
if so, please just email me the answers to my questions.

A friend of mine and myself were downing a six pack of dark beer this evening
and discussing what exactly determines the color and richness of the
beer.  We were wondering whether it was the hops or the brewing time or a
certain concentration of this or that.  
Anyway, we were just wondering what exactly makes a dark beer (such as Guinness)
dark, and a light beer light.......any help is appreciated.

Martin

e-mail appreciated at 
sex@brahms.udel.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing