HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: chris@xlnt.com (Chris Bracken)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Will I have problems with my 6-volt in the cold?
Date: 12 Nov 92 01:17:30 GMT
Article-I.D.: xlnt.1245

When I was growing up in Iowa and Minnesota our family car was a 58
beetle, 6 volt system;  we never had any problems, but the following
caveats apply:

Make sure that you have a good battery, clamps cables and connectors
have to be nice and clean; remember V=IR and you have an anemic V to
begin with.

We used to use 10W ( single weight ) oil when it got cold, check
owners manual for temp ranges. 

Tune that baby up, thanksgiving weekend at the latest! Make sure that 
you have a good coil too.

Keep some gas line antifreeze in your tank, keep at least 1/4 tank of
gas in there.

Don't use the handbrake; they freeze up easily.

Make sure that you have solid heater exchange boxes if you are planning
to use the "defroster", or you may find yourself taking a LONNNG nap;
seriously, make sure that your exhaust system is up to snuff.

The battery is in a nice protected place, out of the wind, which can
make a big difference; try and keep the rear of the car out of the wind
too.  Remember that you have the advantage of a laughable compression
ratio and very short cables from battery to starter.  My experience
with our 58 was that getting it started was the easy part; keeping it
running when the frost choked the intake manifold downtube was harder.
Keeping yourself warm and the windows clear was harder still.

Dress warm, carry money, keep a couple 50 # bags of sand in the trunk
to even out weight distribution so you don't find your front wheels 
gliding serenely over the snow as you attempt to make that turn into
your driveway!   It'll be lots of fun!!!

				Chris
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: brake interchange
Date: 10 Nov 92 00:55:54 GMT
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.

In article <wezhN8C00iUxI6iYU_@andrew.cmu.edu>, "Daniel U. Holbrook" <dh3q+@andrew.cmu.edu> writes:
>Hello - 
>
>I have an opportunity to buy some front brake rotors from an '86 GTI to
>replace the ones on my '79 Rabbit.  Will they fit?  Are there any
>general rules for this sort of interchange, i.e. any years not
>interchangable with others etc.?
>
>Thanks,
>Dan

I did a similar "conversion" on a 79 Rabbit for autocrossing a couple of
years ago. You will need the rotors as well as the calipers for the
conversion to work. The vented rotors are thicker than the non-vented
ones, so the pads on the GTIs with vented rotors are thinner. The
'79 pads only come in one thickness, so therefore you need to change
the calipers too.

You will also need to change the brake hoses. Something in the
back of my mind says they need to be changed. I would also
suggest getting hold of the backing plates for the larger
calipers, or you will have to trim your current ones to
allow the GTI calipers to fit.

Ric Golen


>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: zowie@daedalus.stanford.edu (Craig "Powderkeg" DeForest)
Subject: Hacked-up EGR valve
Organization: Stanford Center for Space Science and Astrophysics
Distribution: rec
Date: 6 Nov 92 14:12:56


Thanks to all that responded about my earlier question -- I was looking for
an EGR valve for my '73 camper van.

I called dozens of places in the bay area.  One (VW Parts Center, in
San Jose) actually had six or seven of the valves, but the guy pointed
out that they *all* leaked vacuum -- bad news.

Finally found a place in Oakland -- Foreign Auto Wrecking, right under the bay
bridge.  They assured me that they had the part I needed.  It was 4:15, and
they close at 5:30, so I hopped on my motorcycle and headed into the incipient
rush-hour traffic.

Made it to their front door in only forty five minutes - got there at 5:05.

It took almost ten minutes for the lethargic guy behind the counter to finally
ask me what I wanted.  He asked another guy to show me "the VW engine we just
got in".  I followed him out into the gloom -- they have a truly huge collec-
tion of stuff: several warehouses, large heavy-duty racks of stacked cars 
outside, etc -- and into a darkened warehouse.  The dude started so swear, 
and called another guy over, who had a flashlight.  We gingerly stepped 
over and around engines and body panels, avoiding the pools oil on the floor.
Finally, we came to a forklift that had -- a *1974* bus engine on it!  Totally
the wrong configuration -- '73 has twin EGR valves, and '74 has a single one
on an intake manifold cross-piece...

We went back to the front room.  Wall time was now 5:15.  The guy (to whom I'd
spoken on the phone, and who'd assured me that (a) the engine in question was
a '73 and (b) I had plenty of time if I got there by 5:15) said that yes, he
probably had the part, but no, he didn't feel like looking for it now -- come
back in the morning.  We *do* close at 5:30, you know.

I swore at him, and departed loudly into the rush hour traffic.

Back at home, I realized that the problem with my old valve was pretty easy to
fix: the little pipe, to which you attach the vacuum hose, was broken off.  I
cleaned the valve body with ethanol, pulled the distributor vacuum pipe out of
my bug, hacksawed off about 3/4" of it, and epoxied the nipple into the EGR
valve.  Voila!  Works great!  And I saved ~$50, thanks to an *ssh*le parts man
in Oakland!

Now I just hope they don't accuse me of `tampering' with my EGR system... :-)
--
Craig DeForest -- astrophysicist for hire.   DoD#314159; PhD#271828
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: eliot@stalfos.engr.washington.edu (eliot)
Subject: Re: 13 inch snows on Corrado
Organization: clearer than blir
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1992 01:16:52 GMT

In article <dchill.721074667@cansqnt> dchill@sequent.com (Duncan Hill) writes:
>Hi,  does anyone know is 13x5 inch rims will fit on a 90 Corrado.

very definitely not.

[etc]

there are very few snows out there that will fit the corrado.. i know
because i've just finished shopping.  ended up with pirelli winter
210s, 185/55 HR15.  that is the factory recommended size, btw.
also, not even 14 inch wheels will fit the corrado.  everybody
will tell you that.  look forward to spending $600+ for a set of
snows/wheels for this baby.... :-)


eliot
From: milo@dorm.rutgers.edu (james mielo)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Splitfire Plugs
Date: 7 Nov 92 23:03:19 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.vw
Organization: rutgers university

I got a few requests about the splitfire plugs. I really could feel an
improvement. Note, I was switching from autolite plugs. However, the
improvement   was fairly good. Good enough to believe the ads. Splitfire
claims about 3-4 road horsepower on normally aspirated cars.To give you an
idea of the increase, my K&N air filter did relatively nothing. When I
added the leistritz exhaust, I got a similiar increase in acceleration feel
as I did just by adding the plugs but the increase was in specific bands of
the rpm range. The splitfire plugs created a broad range effect that could
be felt from idle up to redline. I'm not sure if the increase would have
been as great if I was using Bosch platniums.

James Mielo
Rutgers College of Pharmacy '94
milo@dorm.rutgers.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: dp54@mc4adm.UWaterloo.ca (Rob Silcher)
Subject: Changing Front Wheel Bearings
Organization: University of Waterloo
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 15:20:57 GMT

Well the subject says it all. I'm working on an '84 Rabbit. The last time
I did this I took the spindles off the car and brought them into a garage.
Even though they didn't have to remove the spindles and put them back on the
entire job cost big bucks $250 (this included bearings and new backing plates).

On my new/used Rabbit I have to do this again and I'd rather do it myself. I 
know about the tool that you can rent or buy (too expensive to buy) that allows
you to remove the bearings without even removing the spindle. This sounds great
however I don't think I can get one in my area, Ontario Canada. If anyone in
this area knows where I can rent one please let me know. Otherwise I'll assume
that I won't be able to get one.

So has anyone on the net done this themselves. I know it can be done because 
I spoke to a guy who owns an Audi and he did it several times without any
special tools. He used a 3-legged puller and some large washers to smash out
the old bearing. I don't have a Bentley manual only the Haynes one and this
entire procedure is described in about 8 lines with *no* relevant pictures!

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I plan on doing this soon so I'll post
my results (or lack of).

Rob Silcher dp54@mc4adm.UWaterloo.ca
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: "tom neumann" <tom.neumann@canrem.com>
Subject: fox and polo (was: vw
Reply-To: "tom neumann" <tom.neumann@canrem.com>
Organization: Canada Remote Systems
Distribution: rec
Date: 5 Nov 92 12:19:08 EST


tomh@wes.on.ca (Tom Haapanen) writes:

> It looks like the Fox will be replaced by the new Polo, to be
> manufactured in Mexico, in the 95 model year.

TH>Is there any official comment to this effect yet?  (Please!)

It's all just rumours at this point... although no one seems to be
denying it.

Tom Neumann
---
  DeLuxe 1.25 #350  Fun, eh???
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
From: pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu
Subject: Re: Info on Bus Campers - Buying Used
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 20:52:04 GMT
Organization: University of Louisville

In article <Bxo113.F7B@well.sf.ca.us>, hjack@well.sf.ca.us (Henry Jackson) writes:
> 2. The main attraction of the newer Vanagons is the watercooled engine.
> Just having a heater that doesn't smell like the parts dip tank at the local
> machine shop is reason enough to get one. Question I have is are there any
> aftermarket modifications available for the waterboxer engine to increase
> power? Also suspension mods.  I know that the Tire Rack advertizes wheels
> that fit Vanagon, but that's all that I've seen on the subject.  Most of the
> VW specialty magazines don't address newer Vanagons.
> 
> Any help, information out there?
> 
> q
> d 44

Don't buy a Wasserboxer Vanagon, they will self-destruct!  The Wasserboxer is
not THE water-cooled Vanagon, it is A water-cooled Vanagon.  The ones with
Rabbit motors will not blow head gasket and commit suicide, the Wasserboxer
will.

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
|pH Fred == pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu    |         "What we lack         |
|        == ..!psuvax1!ulkyvx.bitnet!pgheit01 |   in enthusiasm, we make up   |
|           University of Louisville          |         for in apathy."       |
|                Louisville, KY               |                               |
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
From: kirstein@bohemia.metronet.org (Dale Kirstein)
Subject: Re: 13 inch snows on Corrado
Organization: Bohemia BBS System
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1992 19:43:57 GMT

dchill@sequent.com (Duncan Hill) writes:

>Hi,  does anyone know is 13x5 inch rims will fit on a 90 Corrado.
>I had them on my 87 GTI before it was misappropriated.  I know the
>bolt pattern is the same, what I am concerned with is the size
>of the front disks fitting inside the 13" rim.  Any help would
>be appreciated.  My snows are Hakkipelita (sp?) and in great shape
>still, I would hate to spend $1000 dollars on new snows and rims.
>Duncan Hill

Your fears are correct. The Front brake rotors are too big to fit in a 13"
wheel, or even a 14" I beleive. However, If you do some hunting, you can
find 15" wheels for the 4 bolt Corrado for about $50 U.S.. I did!

Dale Kirstein
.sig pending
From: ajackson@ernie.Princeton.EDU (Andrew William Jackson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: How do I cut my bus in half?
Date: 8 Nov 92 01:55:14 GMT
Organization: Princeton University
Originator: news@nimaster

In article <1992Oct26.190545.12077@ousrvr.oulu.fi> tkunnas@phoenix (Tapani Kunnas) writes:
>Douglas Shade (shade@chdasic.sps.mot.com) wrote:
>: 
>: >   
>: >    I am the proud owner of a 1966 microbus that I want to do something
>: >neat with. I have pretty much determined that dropping in a 930 Turbo
>: >engine and appropriate 5-speed would fall outside of the bounds of my
>: >budget ($0), so I'm looking into the possibility of cutting out the
>: >middle section to make a 'nanobus'. I know it has been done my many
>: >other people, but I haven't been able to find any real information. My
>: >main cocerns are not where to cut, but if and how the steering geometry
>: >needs to be modified, etc., and is such a modification even suitable to
>: >creating a usable vehicle. Any info or feedback would be appreciated.
>: >Thanks- Matt
>: >    P.S. If anybody knows of any pre-67 basket-case Saabs for sale, I'm 
>: >very interested in those, too. 
>: 
>: Please don't.
>: 


In Boulder, CO I saw a vw bus that was cut in half the other way (lengthwise)
and mounted on top of an old schoolbus  it looked pretty neat.  Maybe you
buy the bottom half of their bus and weld the top of a pre 67 Saab onto it.
just kidding.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Will I have problems with my 6-volt in the cold?
From: dillongm@ucunix.san.uc.edu (Johnny Monocrome)
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 13:54:04 GMT
Organization: University of Cincinnati

In article <1992Nov9.052212.647@unvax.union.edu> lagrangj@unvax.union.edu (Joshua C. LaGrange) writes:
>Does any one know what kind of problems I can expect with a six-volt system during this coming winter.  I assume that I'll have some difficulty starting, does anyone have any suggestions on how to deal with that?  The car must be parked outside, unfortunately, so it will be nearly constantly freezing, sometimes sub-zero.  Would a reflective space-blanket in the engine compartment while parked help?  Thanks in advance.  Just e-mail, unless you think it would be of use to the whole group.  -Josh
>
>-- 
>Josh LaGrange                  *                    
>Email: lagrangj@unvax.union.edu*                                               Phone: (518) 370-6908          *
>My views may not represent the *
>views of the Union College     * 

Do please post it for I am wondering the same thing myself.

Thanks
Guy Dillon  
dillongm@ucunix.san.uc.edu

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: WANTED - 13x7" Steel Wheels
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 14:28:54 GMT

Does anyone out there have a set of 13 inch by 7" wide steel
wheels they wish to sell? I need them for my Rabbit GTI
autox car. Alternatively, does anyone know of a good source
for these wheels?

Thanks,
Ric Golen
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Will I have problems with my 6-volt in the cold?
From: emd@ham.almanac.bc.ca
Date: Mon, 09 Nov 92 22:02:33 PST
Distribution: world
Organization: Robert Smits

lagrangj@unvax.union.edu (Joshua C. LaGrange) writes:

> Does any one know what kind of problems I can expect with a six-volt system d
> 
> -- 
> Josh LaGrange                  *                    
> Email: lagrangj@unvax.union.edu*                                             
> My views may not represent the *
> views of the Union College     * 


Well, you aren't necessarily going to have problems. I've had 6V systems 
that started just fine at -40 Deg F. However, I suggest you do the 
following:

Ensure that all the wiring connections are bright, clean, and shiny. Take 
them apart, clean the terminals, and ensure the connections are tight.

Ensure that the battery is in good condition. An electric battery warmer 
is a good addition if it gets below -30 F in your area, as it keeps the 
electrolyte warmer (and more active). 

Give your engine a tune-up before it gets real cold.

Make sure you use the recommended weight of oil, as too thick oil makes 
the engine turn over much slower -

Volkswagen used to make the following recommendations for older 
air-cooled engines:

If operated for short distances and in city traffic during winter, use 
SAE 20 W20.

If operated where winter temperatures average below 5 degrees F, use
SAE 10W.

If operated regularly at temperatures below -13 degrees F change the oil 
every 750 miles and use SAE 5W. 

In either of these cases avoid driving at high speeds for long periods 
when using SAE 10W if outside temp is above 32 degrees F , or if using 5W 
when the temperature is above 5 degrees F.

Personally, I would use a 10W 30 if the temperature is above 0 F, and a 
5W30 if below that. 

And lastly, if you operate your car only for short distances in city 
traffic, the generator may not fully charge the battery in cold weather. 
You might want to put a trickle charger on it occasionally.


Robert Smits            | Water? I don't need no steenking water!
emd@ham.almanac.bc.ca   |
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mental@cntrol.enet.dec.com (ken mental)
Subject: Rear fog light installation?
Keywords: Golf fog
Reply-To: mental@cntrol.enet.dec.com (ken mental)
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 15:54:04 GMT



	Has anyone installed a rear running (fog) light on an A2 Golf? I'd 
	like to put one on my GTI, but have a couple questions/reservations.

	I'd like to avoid drilling any additional holes. Is there any way 
	to run the wire inside and not have to drill a hole? 

	Also, does the taillight circuit have enough capacity left to handle an extra
	couple amps (I think the lights are sold with 20W bulbs). Or will
	I need to relay it With a relay, I'd have to run another wire all the way 
	from the battery. Ugly.  

	
						Thanks
						/ken 



--

 				       \  /
Ken Mental			      \	\/ /		Volk swa gen
mental@cntrol.enet.dec.com	       \/\/		Slow keg van
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: GTI Emergency Brake Cable
Date: 9 Nov 92 15:09:57 GMT
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.

This summer I rebuilt my rear calipers on my 86 GTI. I noticed
that the brake cable was "sticking", so I sprayed WD40 on it, and
in it to free it up.

This morning when I started to drive I noticed the same cable (right
side) was sticking and locking up the wheel. I crawled under and 
managed to pry back the arm on top of the caliper to release it and
drove off. 

Has anyone out there replaced an emergency brake cable on a GTI?
How long does it take? What is the "bleeding knuckle" factor?
You can post the reply here or e-mail me.

Thanks.

Ric Golen

P.S. In the grand scheme of things its not a major problem...
the GTI has 190k miles (including autox and rally)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: shade@chdasic.sps.mot.com (Douglas Shade)
Subject: Re: Smogging a Bug
Reply-To: shade@chdasic.sps.mot.com
Organization: Motorola SPS ASIC, Chandler, AZ
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 19:37:27 GMT


>Title says it all.   Anybody have any information of
>smogging a Bug?    Say a 1966.

I reckon it depends on the state/county the car is registered in.  If the
bug were in AZ, all you need to smog it is to show the title.  Older cars
are exempt :)

If the bug is in California, I think you have to post a $20,000 smog 
bond, agree to deliver over your first child to the state, apply an 
air pump and catalytic converter, convert to hydrogen, and a nuetrino
fired bi-phasic mono-stabilator bypass valve... or something like that.


---
shade@chdasic.sps.mot.com                        \/
602-821-4096                                    \/\/...its not a car
From: kerila@hal.com (Larry Kerila)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: ECU problems?
Date: 5 Nov 92 20:36:45 GMT
Reply-To: kerila@hal.com
Organization: HaL Computer Systems
NNTP-Posting-Host: spiff.hal.com

Hello all!

This is a truely great use of email!  I wish I had it a long time ago!

Here is my tale of woe:  I purchased a brand new GLI in early 90 (I
didn't get the cool new bumpers) and not long after started having 
problems.  My previous car was a GTI that I also bought new, so I was 
kinda used to VWs little quirks.  First my gas mileage was shit.  The 
GTI got about 32mpg and I was getting 18!  Then the idle would go crazy.
Hunting up and reving hard when I had the clutch in between shifts.  
Surging up or down when my foot was steady on the accelerator.  I took 
it back to the dealer and they couldn't find any thing wrong with it.  
I finally said "I won't take this car back until you've experienced the 
problem".  They kept it and ultimately did have it act up.  They told 
me the air intake pressure plate (?) was the problem.  I got it back 
and within a couple months or so I was back to square one.  I took it to 
3 other dealers with no success. I finally called VWUS and they told me to
try another local dealer.  Same story.  I said I didn't want the car back.  
They promised to drive it until it acted up for them.  Naturally it did.  
They replaced the ECU.  I thought it was fixed.  My passion for my 
hotrod was back!  Now its about 8 months later and I have the same exact 
problem.  I have it at the same dealer now and they are telling me it 
is the potentiometer at the air intake assembly.  It sounds like the 
initial diagnosis from 1990.  Could this be?

Any comments or should I just buy a BMW and be done with Volksjunk?

Larry Kerila

kerila@hal.com
From: drew@tcom.stc.co.uk (Scooby Doo)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Gearbox noises?
Date: 5 Nov 1992 09:54:46 GMT
Organization: BNR Europe, New Southgate, London N11 1HB.
NNTP-Posting-Host: bnsgs200.bnr.co.uk

	Hi all,

		Thanks to all people who answered my request about
cambelts. The new one is now in and running fine on my 82 GTi. I
have another question however. I have a odd sound coming from
the general direction of the gearbox.

In details.

Gear change is smooth going up the gears, no trouble selecting
any gear at all. However, when rolling up to a junction to stop
I traditionally try to select first gear just before the
car stops rolling. The gear shift is stiff and makes a
low grinding sound as first gear is selected in this mode.
If I stop first and then select first gear I sometimes get
the sound and sometimes don't...

A) What is this sound? (I thought maybe worn synchros?)
B) Is it going to be a major problem before long?

Drew

--
	UK : (081) 945 3726		|
Drew	ESN : 6 730 3726	    	| It's not a car, it's a VW,
Wagar	US : +44 81 945 3726	    	| and a full time occupation too!
	Internet : drew@bnr.co.uk	|
From: keys@starchild.ncsl.nist.gov (Lawrence B. Keys)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: ECU woes
Date: 6 Nov 92 20:33:08 GMT
Organization: National Institute of Standards & Technology



Replacing the (on my car Motronic Control Unit) MCU.  It seems that when
the "fault" is checked in the computer, the service guy then resets the
computer. THIS IS THE PROBLEM.  You see, each time that they reset the
computer the problem is gone for about a month, then it returns mysteriously.
Something with in the computer's circuitry  triggers the fault, but they 
never found out what.

During this time, the service guy/gal will replace suspect parts, yet, the
problem returns.  But once the MCU is replaced (by the redesigned one) the
problem goes away. On my car the service dept. replaced: "idle stabelizer 
valve" twice, and the OXS sensor.  Each time the problem reoccured, but 
once the MCU was replaced the problem vanished.  Its been fine since 2/92. 



>	Another unsolved recurring problem is a spedometer
>	that shakes through 30 Mph. The cable gets replaced,
>	and then its fine for 3 months, then the problem
>	recurs.. any hints?

                                                   .              
                                                 /                
Larry                            __/    ______ /                  
keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov       /                \                 
                         _ _ _      __      _____  \------- ===   
            ---------- /  __ /    /  /    /__  __/            \   
         /            /  / ____  /  /       / /                |  
        |            / /___/  / /  /__   __/ /__              /   
        /_____       \______/  /_____ / /______/        --- ////   
             \_____           2 liter 16v       \_______/         
                                                                              
        Fahrvergnugen forever!


Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw