HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: DH02000 <DH02@polytec1.polymtl.ca>
Subject: RE: Leaving film out on F4s?
Organization: Ecole Polytechnique de Montreal
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 19:39:05 GMT

In article <1992Sep3.113409.4863@ulrik.uio.no> ole-jorgen.maland@tf.tele.no (Ole J.Maeland) writes:
>How do you choose this option? The manual says nothing!!
>
>-- Ole Joergen --

You could do it in 2 different ways.

The less complicated way would be to go to a Nikon authorized dealer/
service station and have them reprogram the camera for about $20 US.
And this wouldn't invalidate the warranty in any way.

The "other" way would be to manually rewind the film.  By keeping an
eye on the dial which gives the frame number, you need to stop at
"minus 2" (i.e. 2 frames before zero).

Hope that helps!

-Tamal Ghosh
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au (Paul Repacholi)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: One Vs two touch zooms.
Date: 26 Aug 92 01:06:55 GMT
Organization: Curtin University of Technology

In article <1992Aug25.200816.28095@adobe.com>, usenet@adobe.com (USENET NEWS) writes:
> 
> This is a problem inherent to one-touch (push/pull) zooms. If the zoom 
> ring is tight enough to prevent this kind of movement, then it's too tight 
> for smooth zooming. A two-touch zoom, with a zoom ring that rotates, is 

I beg to differ. I have shot a zillion shots with the Nikon 43-86 zoom, a one
touch design. It *NEVER* had the 'auto-zoomies', nor was it sticky. My current
Canon EF 70-210USM will happily go from on end of the range to the other,
depending which way you point it. What I did notice with the nikon, and with
other one-touch lenses is that they require LOTS of practice to only zoom or
only focus or to smoothly co-ordinate both. The later is a practicle imposibility
with a two-touch BTW.

~Paul
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: hchong@netcom.com (Hoi Chong)
Subject: Re: Seeking Comments on NIKON F4 and on a P&S
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 92 15:25:56 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 

From article <PHILG.92Aug26182414@zug.ai.mit.edu>, by philg@zurich.ai.mit.edu (Philip Greenspun):
> The F4 is so heavy that it is only good for self-defense.  There are
> plenty of 120 and 4x5 cameras that are lighter!  I never use my F4,
> greating preferring the 8008 and 6006.  Unless you desperately want to
> spend $4000 on a new 300/2.8 with motor drivable from the F4, buy an
> 8008, save your neck and your money.  The SB-24 is great, but you have
> to get the SC-17 extension cord to really hvae fun (AF is actually
> useful because you hold the flash off camera with one hand and focus
> and shoot with the other).

Now, we couldn't let you get away with statements like that, could we (grin)?

F4s has many advantages over 8008, including 
  - having all the LED info inside the viewfinder
  - easy vertical shot handling (extra shutter-release button)
  - drop it (hard) and it still functions perfectly 
  - all features functioning (except AF) with older MF lenses
  - attain immediate recognition (again, grin), at one location, I had 2
    persons came up to me out of the blue and started comparing their F4s
    to mine at 2 different time of the day 
  - yes, self-defense
  - 5.7fps
  - somewhat silence film advance 
  - remove viewfinder/head to act like you are cleaning the camera, when
    you are acting taking their photos
  - able to take 250-back
  - able to use newer 300mm and 600mm with internal motors
  - able to rewind even when batteries go dead

> The 80-200/2.8 is great but don't expect to ever use AF with it.
> Unlike at least one off-brand 80-200, the focusing isn't internal so
> the camera is trying to rotate a Honda-size weight.  Of the wide
> angles, I've had the most fun with the 20/2.8.  I also love my 60
> macro.

If you are using 8008 for that, then I have one more advantage of F4s over
8008 -- my F4s works fantastic AF-wise with 80-200/2.8ED AF.  The focusing
move as fast as I would want it to.
From: gsnow@clark.edu (Gary Snow)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Minolta Maxxum 7xi or Cannon EOS Elan
Date: 26 Aug 92 17:59:43 GMT
Article-I.D.: clark.1992Aug26.175943.24776
Distribution: usa
Organization: Clark College, Vancouver, Wa.  USA

In article <1992Aug26.145900.28840@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com> shelly@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com (Sheldon Kay) writes:
>
>I am interested in either a Minolta Maxxum 7xi or Cannon EOS Elan. I am looking
>for negative comments only. Thanks...

Being an owner of both, that is hard for me to say, I like them both for
diferent reasons.

They are both really user friendly in their controls.

I like manual focusing with the Elan/EOS line of lenses better then the
Minolta lenses (especially the xi lenses).

The Elan has some features that the 7xi doesn't have, like Flash Exposure
compensation that the 7xi only gets by having certain hot shoe flashes.

The 7xi's autofocus system is first rate (great for action photography).
At the cameras max winding rate of 4 frames per second, the autofocus
system doesn't even slow it down.  Not so with the Elan, where you usually
only get 2fps when in continuous focusing mode (even with a fast focusing
USM lens).

The 7xi has a REALLY wide focusing area, and you can turn the individual
focusing points (there are 4 of them) on or off. The Elan has only a central
focusing cross (its both a horizontal and vertical focusing point).

The 7xi has a higher flash sync speed then the Elan (1/200sec vs 1/125).

The Elan will do auto exposure bracketing (its built into the camera), with
the 7xi, you need to by a $20 card to get it. Although the card gives you
more flexibility.

7xi has a max shutter speed of 1/8000sec vs the Elans 1/4000sec.

The Elan has an infra-red remote that you can buy for it, and is also
programable via a bar code scanner.  The 7xi only has the expansion cards,
and a corded electronic shutter release.

The 7xi is approximately $75-$100 more expensive then the Elan.

Cannon EF lenses tend to be a bit more expensive then their xi counter parts,
although they also tend to be better optically.

Elan will do mutilple exposures automatically, the 7xi needs a card.

The Elan is both quieter in focusing and winding then the 7xi.

As you can see, there are differences in both, and trade offs in both. It
all depends on what kind of shooting you are going to do with it.

Gary

-- 
-----
Gary Snow
uunet!clark!gsnow  or  gsnow@clark.edu
From: qinyi@uk.ac.man.cs (Yi Qin (BCW PhD))
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: To buy Nikon lens in Hong Kong and Singapore
Date: 25 Aug 92 21:22:54 GMT
Organization: University of Manchester, UK

Hello, rec.photoers.

My wife is going for a conference in Singapore, then she will stop
in Hong Kong. I'd like to ask her to buy a Nikon AF28-70/3.3-? to
fit my Nikon 801. I remember some time ago, there was a discussion on
shopping photo equipments in HK. There have been a few complaints and 
unsatisfactions. As my wife doesn't know about cameras and lenses, I'd 
invite some opinions of shopping in HK and Singapore (if there is any 
difference between HK and Sing.). Which shop do you reckon to be 
reputible and offers reasonable prices, esp. for the above item. Do I have 
to pay extra for an international warranty as I have to use it a lot in UK? 

Any suggestions, experiences, and the name of recommeded camera shops in
HK and Singapore are very much welcome. Please reply using the address
given below. Thanks in advance.

Yi Qin
Manchester
UK
qinyi@cs.man.ac.uk
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: yz@broca.acc.virginia.edu 
Subject: Re: Advise on telephoto zoom lenses
Organization: University of Virginia
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 21:36:57 GMT

In article <BtnsL4.I5B@acsu.buffalo.edu> tklai@acsu.buffalo.edu (Tobysze K.  
Lai) writes:
> Hello there,
> 
> 	I am looking for a mid-price telephoto zoom lens for my Canon EOS
> camera.  There are few choices in my mind now:
> 
> 	Canon EF 75-300 f/4-5.6
> 	Sigma AF 70-210 f/4-5.6 APO
> 	Sigma AF 75-300 f/4-5.6 DL
> 
> 	The main thing I am concerned with is the quality of the lens, and
> I am not really care about the focusing speed of the lens, although I know
> that the focusing speed of the non Canon-made lens won't be as fast as the 
> one made by Canon.  Does anybody own or has any experience with any of the
> above lens?  Thanks in advance for any advise or comments!
Popular Photography did test on all of the lens you mentioned. The Sigma 75-300  
did considerably better than the Canon lens. I own a Sigma AF 75-300 DL for my  
10S. My own experience indicate that this is a very sharp lens. I use to own a  
70-210 lens but found just wasn't long enough for my purposes. So since the f  
stops for all of the lenes are the same, I would get the Sigma 75-300. The  
70-210 APO might be slighter better than the 75-300 in terms of image quality  
and also lighter. In terms of price, the APO might actually be more expensive  
than the DL. So if I were you, I would give up a tiny bit of image quality for  
the longer range and lower price of the 75-300 DL. (There's always the 75-300  
APO!!!). Focusing speed? Only Canon's USM lenes are really faster than the  
third-party lens. 
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au (Paul Repacholi)
Subject: Re: What lens to get for EOS Elan?
Organization: Curtin University of Technology
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 14:26:48 GMT

In article <TJWU.92Sep1134138@e40-008-10.mit.edu>, tjwu@athena.mit.edu (Thomas J Wu) writes:
> 
>   I'm trying to decide among the following lenses for an EOS Elan:
> 
> - Canon 35-80mm f/4-5.6 USM (fast, quiet), ~$150  update of the black arse
> - Canon 35-80mm f/4-5.6 EF, ~$85 yeah, this one. yuck. also above.
> - Sigma 35-80mm f/4-5.6, ~$70 not familiar with sigmas.
> - Sigma 35-135mm f/3.5-4.5, ~$130
> 

Te bottom line Canon zooms aren't much opticaly. Not real bad mind you, and
are amaizing for size and price. The 35-105 or 35-135USM are much better, but
more $$$. Or go for the 28-80L. :-) Think of the money you will save in gym
fees, take photos and keep fit in one hit. :-))

The Elan is good for top optics, and if your budget will spring for them, get
the best lenses you can. They will go from body to body if you stay with the one
'system', and have far more infuence on the tech quality of the result than the
camera body that you use.

~Paul
From: johno@sdd.hp.com (John Ongtooguk)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Popping slides and curved field lenses
Date: 2 Sep 1992 16:35:15 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, San Diego Division
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: hpsdlg10.sdd.hp.com

In article <1992Sep02.045706.19555@truevision.com>, frank@truevision.com (Frank Loffel) writes:
> I know that mounting a slide between glass will provide good center to edge
> sharpness with a flat field lens. However, I believe that it's not a good
> idea to mount originals between glass, because they a) get baked quite a bit
> and b) might deteriorate because of lack of air. The alternative is to dupe
> the originals and project the dupe using glass mounts. Pretty complicated.
> 
> Is there a way to project original slides in glassless mounts with perfect
> center to edge sharpness?
> 
> I'm really tired of viewing my pictures with my thumb on the manual focus
> toggle on the projector remote.

  A purist might say that if you're worried about deterioration don't
  project them, but if you aren't and you do make sure they're sharp.
  It seems that glass mounts and flat field lens is the way to go,
  but like you say it's a pain, and there are other potential problems.
  I haven't tried it myself but I've thought of trying to deform the
  screen to improve overall sharpness, which may or may not be easier
  to do with a nice curved field lens. A slower lens with slightly
  more depth of field will also help, but it means projecting closer
  to maintain brightness which compounds the sharpness problem. 
  A more sophisticated approach would be to let the slide pop against
  a clear stop that you move into position after loading the slide.
 

  John Ongtooguk (johno@sdd.hp.com)
From: jay@metran.UUCP (Jay Ts)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Fuji Slide Film or Pushing Kodachrome
Date: 27 Aug 92 04:42:14 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Metran Technology, Tampa, Florida

kjm@cnmss.tredydev.unisys.com (Ken J. McFadden) writes:
: I've been pretty happy with Kodachrome 25 and 64 for quite a while.  However I
: want to shoot some faster slide film and I don't like Ektachrome (spelling?)
                                                        ^^^^^^^^^^ correct.
: and also disliked the results I have gotten with Kodachrome 200.

Hmm, same here.

: I would be willing to try Fuji slide film, [...]
: 
: The other thing that I might want to try is exposing Kodachrome 64 at a higher
: speed and then getting it push (or is it pull) processed.  Has anyone tried
                            ^^^^ correct
: this combination?

I have tried pushing Kodachrome 1, 2 and 3 stops.  I suggest you do not try
for any more than 1 stop.  I got unacceptably large grain, color shift and
muddy shadows when I tried.

I myself am in the process of testing higher speed slide films.  Well, sort
of -- the project is "on the back burner" right now.

So I'll leave you with a couple of suggestions.  First, try Ektachrome 400X.
The Ektachrome 'X' films are quite unlike the other Ektachromes.  How unlike?
Well, I hate all Ektachromes except for 64X, which is one of my two favorite
films.  How's that?  400X is a tabular-grain film, which means the grain is
relatively small, and maybe it will push well to EI 800.

Second, if you can get some Scotchchrome, you may wish to try that.  It is
very grainy, but the colors are reputedly good, and it pushes well -- the
grain gets bigger, but the colors stay good.  For fun, push Scotchchrome
1000 2-3 stops.  The grain comes out downright pointilistic.

Jay Ts
Newsgroups: rec.photo,alt.cd-rom,gnu.misc.discuss,misc.int-property
From: dougb@comm.mot.com (Doug Bank)
Subject: Re: Time to boycott Photo CD
Reply-To: dougb@ecs.comm.mot.com
Organization: Motorola Land Mobile Products Sector
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 15:39:41 GMT

In article <l9okqpINNnc6@almaak.usc.edu>, ajayshah@almaak.usc.edu (Ajay Shah) writes:
|> I was extremely enthusiastic about the basic idea of Photo CD when I
|> first heard of it.  I'm going to strictly avoid it, however, given the
|> way Kodak seems to be going about it.
|> 
|> Kodak wants to tie up the file formats under lock and key.  You can't
|> write a program to open their files.  You can't even write a program
|> which generates their files.  Don't expect to ever see interfaces
|> between Photo CD and pbm or TeX.  If you write a neat program which
|> does XXX to a file in Kodak format, you can't give that program to
|> anyone else.

Instead of griping and complaining to everybody, why don't you document
your source.  I was under the impression that Kodak was supplying an
interface to Adobe Photoshop for free.  I used a PhotoCD at the Consumer
Electronics show, and it sure looked easy to use and valuable.  My only
gripe is: What they hell do I do with an edited image?  Do I have to get 
a bernoulli drive just to get the image to a printer?

-- 
Doug Bank                       Private Systems Division
dougb@ecs.comm.mot.com          Motorola Communications Sector
dougb@nwu.edu                   Schaumburg, Illinois
dougb@casbah.acns.nwu.edu       708-576-8207                    
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: usenet@adobe.com (USENET NEWS)
Subject: Re: Nikon N90 technobabble
Originator: asanders@sparta
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 16:40:04 GMT

| So is it just me, or do other feel that the zillion-plus-one 
| whiz-bang high tech features being packed into cameras like the 
| Nikon N90 or the Minolta xi series to be more distracting and 
| intimidating than useful? ...Does this stuff really lead to 
| better photos?
		   -Mark Lee


I agree with you. I don't believe that mega-featured cameras
improve the average photographer's art. And I *especially*
don't believe it because of the obvious trend among amateur
photograhers toward buying cheaper and cheaper lenses to
use with their expensive, do-everything camera bodies.
It sure looks to me like the advertising boys have got
nearly everybody snowed!

I also agree that the features I appreciate most on my 8008s
are relatively few: autofocus, spot metering, flash automation,
automatic film advance. Basic stuff. I use this camera in
aperture priority or manual about 99% of the time. Who NEEDS
a dozen program modes? I guess somebody does! :)

			   -Alan
From: honna@cs.concordia.ca (SEGEL honna)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: For sale: Slide Projector (2 1/4 tray)
Date: 31 Aug 92 16:41:59 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Computer Science, Concordia University, Montreal, Quebec

Kindermann Automatic 300 (model 1075)  (2 1/4 x 2 1/4)
	Linear tray projector
	110V / 240V; takes CMV bulb; current CMV works
	100 mm f/2.8 Projar lens (like new)
	20 x 22.5 x 25 cm (w x h x d)
	Cords still supple (white vinyl); 12' remote cord
	real fake leatherette carrying case 25 x 30 x 45 cm

Best offer. Reply c/o this account or at 514-281-5663.

HS/Michael






















-- 
***************************************************************
honna segel
department of computer science
concordia university  *****************************************
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: dougb@comm.mot.com (Doug Bank)
Subject: Re: Recommend slide labelling program?
Reply-To: dougb@ecs.comm.mot.com
Organization: Motorola Land Mobile Products Sector
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 13:24:19 GMT

The issue of Photo District News that I received in the mail
yesterday has a very long and exhaustive story (including names,
prices, and evaluations) on exactly this topic.  They include labelling
and database software for both the mac and the pc.  If you are interested
in this topic, I suggest that you find this article.

-- 
Doug Bank                       Private Systems Division
dougb@ecs.comm.mot.com          Motorola Communications Sector
dougb@nwu.edu                   Schaumburg, Illinois
dougb@casbah.acns.nwu.edu       708-576-8207
From: tim@deakin.OZ.AU (Tim Cook)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Nikon F301?
Date: 3 Sep 1992 04:29:35 GMT
Organization: C&CS, Deakin University
NNTP-Posting-Host: mimas.cc.deakin.oz.au


I have decided to buy my first 35mm SLR.

Some of my desires:

   1. Good price -- therefore I am looking at second-hand cameras
   2. Auto aperture, auto shutter, aoerture priority, shutter priority
   3. Electronic winder
   4. Shutter speed(s) faster than 1/1000
   5. Popular brand (more 2nd-hand lenses to choose from)
   6. Reputable brand (likely to last longer and produce better results)

I would state that I'm not too hot for AF, mainly because I don't see it
as a value-for-money feature at the moment.

One camera that has caught my eye, and has most if not all of the above
features is the Nikon F301.  I know that has been succeeded by F401, F601
and F801 models, all of which are AF.

What I want to know is the age fo the F301, and some more details on its
features.  Pointing out any features that it _doesn't_ have, and I may
desire would be very helpful.

So, anybody got any info?
From: gsnow@clark.edu (Gary Snow)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Dealers for Minolta 9xi
Date: 28 Aug 92 18:27:21 GMT
Article-I.D.: clark.1992Aug28.182721.3145
Organization: Clark College, Vancouver, Wa.  USA

In article <1992Aug28.114012@lamisun6.epfl.ch> cheneval@lamisun6.epfl.ch (Yves Cheneval) writes:
>Hi folks!!
>
>I'm going to Montreal, Quebec, San Francisco and LA areas, and I'm interested
>in purchasing a Minolta 9xi. My question is:
>1) How much does it cost in Canada or USA???
>2) What stores are good in the above areas (Service, etc...) ?
>
>Please hurry because I'm leaving very very soon..... Thanks a lot...

Not sure about those areas, but Camera World of Portland Oregon (the
retail store, not the mail order place) sells it for $719.95....your
mileage may vary.

Gary
-- 
-----
Gary Snow
uunet!clark!gsnow  or  gsnow@clark.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au (Paul Repacholi)
Subject: SAMMY'S in LA
Organization: Curtin University of Technology
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 15:10:44 GMT

URRGENT, does any one have the address and phone number for

SAMMY'S Camera in LA??

~Paul
From: siegela@deshaw.com (Andrew Siegel)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Need film recommendation for baby's birth
Date: 28 Aug 92 14:47:19 GMT
Organization: D. E. Shaw & Co.
Originator: siegela@sun38

My wife will be giving birth to our first child in November, and of
course I will be there taking pictures (and perhaps assisting my wife
as well :-).

I'm trying to decide what kind of film to use to record this occasion.
I'll want prints, so it's going to be print film.  The lighting in the
room will be bright fluorescent ambient light and (probably) halogen
examination lights.  I'm pretty sure that there are no tungsten lights
in the room.  I won't be using flash.

My priorities in picking the film are sufficient speed, lack of
graininess, and correct color balance, in that order.  I was thinking
perhaps of a Kodacolor 400 film, but I'm concerned that it won't be
fast enough.  I'm also slightly concerned that the color balance will
be off if I use daylight film.

Can anyone recommend appropriate film and filters?  Thanks.

-- 
Andrew Siegel			D. E. Shaw & Co., New York, NY
abs@deshaw.com			(212)478-0231
From: sog@craycos.com (Steve Gombosi)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Cambridge CNBC Comsumer Affairs
Date: 25 Aug 92 20:50:18 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Cray Computer Corporation

In article <1992Aug25.171222.21799@cbnewsm.cb.att.com> ka1gt@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (robert.m.atkins) writes:
>While flicking through the cable TV channels last night I spotted a picture
>of a Canon Rebel on CNBC (Consumer News and Business?). It turned out to be
>a consumer affairs type show in which a viewer writes in with some item which
>they have a local price for, and the "reporter" finds a better deal on that
>item. Well, guess who they found for the Canon Rebel. Non other than our
>favorite mail order store - Cambridge Camera. Makes you wonder, doesn't it.
>

God! Maybe we should write them a letter...

Steve
From: al@qiclab.scn.rain.com (Alan Peterman)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Which is first camera with TTL meter?
Date: 28 Aug 92 14:21:07 GMT
Article-I.D.: qiclab.1992Aug28.142107.9722
Organization: SCN Research/Qic Laboratories of Tigard, Oregon.

In article <87216@netnews.upenn.edu> liang@saul.cis.upenn.edu (Chuck Liang) writes:
>
>   Does anybody know for sure which SLR was the first to incorporate
>TTL metering?  

My memory, and recent search of camera history seems to point to the
Pentax Spotmatic - at least in 35mm.  This would have been in 1964.

>  Also, who was the first to have TTL flash control?  Was it Olympus?

Again, I'll plead lack of authoritive sources, but the OM-2 would
seem to be the one - although the OM-2n was the first designed for
the TTL flash control, a later shoe adapter made TTL flash possible
with the OM-2.


-- 
Alan L. Peterman                                 (503)-684-1984 hm & work
                       al@qiclab.scn.rain.com
It's odd how as I get older, the days are longer, but the years are shorter!
Newsgroups: rec.photo