HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: millios@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (william.l.millios)
Subject: Re: Woodworking watchwords
Organization: AT&T
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 17:21:58 GMT

My father obtained quite a few quotations from his father, and
of course he bestowed them upon me when the situation was right.

When our new house was being built, he (with my bumbling help)
added an internal vacuum system, an intercom, and a few other
odds and ends here and there.

Once, when I was *very* clumsy, he told me that I "had all the
finesse of a monkey fucking a football."

Another time, when he asked me to drill pilot holes, and I
drilled them too small (resulting in much frustration and
excess effort), he informed me that trying to put a long
screw into a too-small pilot hole "was like trying to put
a wet noodle up a wildcat's ass."

I offer these for your use and enjoyment.  :^)

Bill
From: JEFF-G@cup.portal.com (Jeff - Griffin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: rust prevention & cutting lattice
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 92 02:17:24 PDT
Organization: The Portal System (TM)

WD-40 works very well as a rust inhibitor.
 
Lattice; Using a circular saw frays the hell out of the edges. I've used a
jig_saw with great success, fine line cut, no fraying, and easier to control
than a circular saw.
From: "craig treleaven" <craig.treleaven@canrem.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: central dust vac
Date: 28 Jul 92 21:42:01 EST
Reply-To: "craig treleaven" <craig.treleaven@canrem.com>
Distribution: rec
Organization: Canada Remote Systems

   I have been really interested in the thread on home-brew dust
collectors.  Soon, I'll have to move my new table saw from the garage to
the basement.  I'm just afraid that the whole basement -- and perhaps
the rest of the house -- will be coated in fine dust after each saw cut!


   Couldn't I use the central vac system for dust control?  I really
only want dust control -- I don't mind sweeping up chips or shavings.  I
could easily bring over a central vac outlet and rig up some
'connection' to my contractor's style saw.  (Any thoughts on how to do
that?  It's a frame-type stand as opposed to a cabinet.)

   The central vac has a fair size cannister and uses 1.5 inch collector
pipe so it should handle the volume.  Suction is good:  it picked up the
residue from the glass patio door that self-destructed a few weeks ago!
(The repairman said "tempered glass just does that sometimes" and took
my $200 for a replacement.)

   One problem would be that the central vac exhausts outside.  If it
would need to run for  a while to clear out dust after a sawing session,
it would also be pumping out a lot of heated/cooled air.  Are there any
other big drawbacks?

   Has anyone done this; does it work?  Please post since my e-mail
connection is rather unreliable!

Craig Treleaven
Craig.Treleaven@CanRem.com.ca
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario/Detroit, MI
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
From: MOSIER@UNCG.BITNET (Steve Mosier)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How to REALLY write a FM
Date: 24 Jul 92 14:18:20 GMT
Organization: University of NC at Greensboro
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
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> gun from a merchant marine several months ago and the destructions were of a
> nature as to not have been of a useless to the purchase man so as we thought i
   t
> good to chuck them into the garage.

Oh shit!  I can see I started reading this thread too late!

steve
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bonaccio@griffin (Tony Bonaccio)
Subject: Seeking Info on Oddball Planes
Organization: University of Vermont, EMBA Computer Facility
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 02:52:28 GMT


I picked up a couple of strange-looking planes last week cheap at an auction.
I now own a Stanley #48 that appears to be a tongue/groove plane (two cutters
and a rotating fence - neat!) and a Union #43 (complete with two locations 
for the blade).

Anyone know anything about these planes?  Is the Stanley really a tongue/groove
cutter?  What is the Union?  Are they worth the $50 I paid for them?

Tony
From: bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: router vs shaper
Date: 22 Jul 92 00:25:35 GMT
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Distribution: usa
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated

24224-guthrie writes
> This comes under the heading of "You probably know it already". But.
>
> With all the discussion of routers versus shapers for raised panel work,
> I'd like to point out the fact that simple raised panels can be easily cut
> on either a radial arm saw or a table saw. By simple, I mean straight sided
> angles here.
> {Ascii drawing deleted}
> Making a plywood jig is recommended for doing this on table saws. You
> say you want ogee cuts? Oh - never mind.

This also comes under that "know it already" heading, but:

If you haven't take a look at a molding head cutters for your table or radial  
arm saw. With curved cutters and the ability to tilt the arbor, you can come up  
with some interesting profiles, including ogee, and you won't have to run the  
wood vertically.

But, you say your panel doesn't have straight sides? Never mind.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (Gary Preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Compressors & Air Tool opinions?
Date: 22 Jul 92 21:10:55 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: LLNL

In article <1992Jul21.125839.3400@cbfsb.cb.att.com>, rjc@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (robert.cook) writes:

I've got the C-H 5 Hp *all* cast iron, 2 stage, 80 gal ASME vert tank
and it works great.  Can't overheat it.

> I'm currently voteing for the Campbell due to the cast iron cylinders and the
> American made, even though the 18.8 isn't as high as the Sanbore 22 CFM.
> 
Unless you sandblast continually, I doubt you could tell  the difference.

> Tools - I'm leaning toward Chicago Pneumatic.  Top of their line.
> 
I have several.  Not enough hard usage to give advice, but they seem to
work ok.


From: shaw@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Shaw Moldauer)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 15:55:59 GMT
Subject: Re: router : plunge or not? EVS or not?
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

In rec.woodworking, danny@vega.iii.com (danny) writes:

> I am looking for a router and would like to know some pros and cons 
> about Plunge router with or without electronic variable speed control.
> 
> I am currently looking at Ryobi 600E which cost $209 from Woodworker and
> the Borch which I forgot the model number, it also can plunge with EVS and
> cost $230.  Both model rated at about 3.5 HP.
> 
> Since this is my first router, I am not sure if I need a plunge 
> router with EVS.  I wanted this feature mainly for future use that
> someday, a big someday, that I might build a router table and try to 
> use a 4 inch raise panel bit.  Other then this reason, what good is EVS
> which cost about $40-$50 more then one without EVS. Compare to those router 
> speed controller for $39 from Woodworker, what's the different.  Would it
> work the same if I buy a router without EVS and get the seperate speed
> controller later?
> 
	I don't tend to turn my router all the way up much at all
anymore. I set the speed at the point where the finish is smooth, but
I don't get burning. This allow me to move slowly if I want. My router
has EVS built-in, the remote EVS requires that you turn the control to
full speed to get the router to spin-up, then set the speed. The built-in
EVS will spin-up at any speed (a small convenience). 
	When turning big bits (3"" or more) the speed control is
absolutely necessary.

					-Shaw
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: schnable@cbnewsc.cb.att.com (andrew.schnable)
Subject: Re: Home Brew Dust Collector
Organization: AT&T
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 18:17:15 GMT
Summary: experience with furnace filter dust collection

In article <3560036@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM>, king@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (Phil King) writes:

> Something I have seen, but have not had a chance to try, is using a
> furnace filter to remove the dust.  It won't work as well as the fancy
> dust collector bags but would probably match a pillow case.  I have
> heard of people spraying the furnace filters with PAM cooking oil to
> increase the pick-up of dust - they plug quickly then, but are cheap
> to replace.

I used a cheap fan, a furnace filter, and Endust (not pam) to help
clear the air in my shop - it worked fairly well - but the fan motor
burned out after a few months of use (and I only ran it while I was cutting
on the table saw).   I learned that sawdust isn't real good for motors, 
and while furnace filters are cheap, fans aren't.  

andrew_schnable@att.com 

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: dbsjwb@Edm.Arco.COM bielak@arco.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Handcutting Dovetails
Date: 23 Jul 1992 21:47:45 GMT
Reply-To: bielak@arco.com
Distribution: world, na, usa
Organization: ARCO Exploration and Production Technology
Originator: dbsjwb@doofus


Saturday I spent ~9 hours hand cutting dovetails for three drawers; the fronts
are
"blind" dovetails. Total 12 tails per drawer (3 per joint), times three drawers
= 36
tails, plus pins. Thats about 3 hours per drawer. That time also includes
cutting
fronts, sides, and back to size, and routing the drawer botton slots on the
router
table.

Now that is certainly not as quick as a jig and router. But there is an
immense
amount of pride involved with looking at your FIRST attempt at mass-producing
dovetail drawers, looking at the individuality of each joint and tail, and
knowing that you did it just like countless woodworkers before you. Just like
the antiques my wife loves so much.

Nine hours times $15/hour for my fun time comes to $135 for the set of 3
drawers.

They are worth it!

jwb


-- 
bielak@Arco.COM             ARCO Exploration and Production Technology
james.bielak@Edm.Arco.COM   2300 W. Plano Parkway PRC-D3239
(214) 754-6184              Plano, TX 75075
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: cpetterb@javelin.sim.es.com (Cary Petterborg)
Subject: Re: Keyless Chuck: yea or nay?
Organization: Evans & Sutherland Computer Corp.
	<Jul.24.14.14.30.1992.27376@pilot.njin.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 20:35:32 GMT

In article <Jul.24.14.14.30.1992.27376@pilot.njin.net> ron@pilot.njin.net (Ron Natalie) writes:

   > Having completed a major renovation project which a cordless drill would have
   > made immeasurably easier

   I've got a Makita coordless .  It came with a keyed chuck (it even has a place
   for the chuck key on the top of the drill).  I swapped it with the
   keyless.  80% of the time I just have a hex shank screwdriver bit
   in the thing anyhow so I didn't worry about it.  I've put drill bits
   in it and was pleasantly surprised.  Even round bits stay put.  As a
   matter of fact, it works better than my corded drill with chuckkey
   in this respect (although it may be because the torque is limitted).

I have a B&D keyless chuck drill which I'm really quite pleased with
(yes, B&D!).  I was drilling through brick a week ago and I had NO
bit slippage on my cheap, round mortar bit.  I was pushing VERY hard at
times, too.  I was surprised at how well it held the bit.  I was changing
between the drill and screwdriver, too, and it was much faster than with
a keyed chuck.

Cary
--
_______________
Cary Petterborg					   (801)582-5847 x6893
Evans & Sutherland Computer Corp.  Simulation Division   SLC, UT 84108
UUCP: ...!uunet!sim.es.com!cpetterb  *NET: cpetterb@javelin.sim.es.com
_______________
Not everything that counts can be counted.  Not everything that can be
counted counts.   - Charles Garfield
From: apoyner@as.arizona.edu (Tony Poyner)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Grizzly Combination sander G1014
Date: 21 Jul 92 17:03:46 GMT
Reply-To: apoyner@as.arizona.edu
Organization: MMT Observatory, Univ.of Arizona

In article 15414@porthos.cc.bellcore.com, patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie) writes:
>By the way, I second the rest of your post. It does bother me a little
>that I haven't seen anything by someone who owns one of their bandsaws.
>This leads me to believe that the original complaint is typical of that
>particular tool.
>

Yes. it seems to me also that by far the most Griz complaints I have read are 
from bandsaw owners.  I have the Grizzly 16 inch bandsaw, and I had as bad or 
worse experience with setting it up. (I wrote a long article on the experience
several months ago.)  However, like the original poster, I also did not contact
Grizzly, and as I pointed out in that article, this was obviously a mistake on
my part.  It is easy to get suckered in to trying to fix the problems yourself,
because they are not all apparent up front.  You fix one then find another.  By
the time you fix that, you either have a lot ot effort invested, or have voided 
your warantee.  

I am now fairly happy with the saw, after doing a LOT of re-work on it.

To restate the conclusion, if you have ANY problem, call the vendor.  At least
this keeps the option open to return the unit.

---
Tony Poyner                               apoyner@as.arizona.edu
Multiple Mirror Telescope Observatory     Tel   (602) 621-5185
Univ. of Arizona, Tucson, AZ 85721        Fax   (602) 670-5338
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Corian tops for router tables
Reply-To: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 92 17:29:04 GMT

In article <HOLLEN.92Jul28082313@peg.megatek.UUCP> hollen@megatek.UUCP (Dion Hollenbeck) writes:

>Yes, but I am having a very hard time finding it.  There is a plywood
>called FinForm used to build concrete forms.  It is 3/4" Finnish Birch
>plywood with 15 plies and NO voids.  This makes it dimensionally
>stable and as workable as solid wood.  On both sides of the plywood
>has been "painted" a plastic coating much like formica, but it is not
>a sheet glued on top, it is a coating right on the plywood.

Marine grade plywood also has no voids (at least it's supposed to) and
is a lot easier to find. You'd get fewer plies though, and you'd still
have to laminate or otherwise coat it.

On the Corian stuff, though. If you can find an outfit that uses it,
see if they'll sell you a sink cutout (the "waste" from inside the hole).
This might be cheap.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | "Zero Defects": The result of shutting down a
                    |    production line.
                    |         Kelvin Throop - The Management Dictionary
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: billq@fnal.gov (William R. Quayle)
Subject: Re: Grizzly Survey Results
Reply-To: billq@pogo.fnal.gov
Organization: Independant Consultant
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 18:59:08 GMT

I've just persuaded our newserver administrator to carry rec.wood, and
as such, missed what must have been a pretty lively discussion on
Grizzly.  My dad is in the market for a table saw, and just got a
flyer advertizing 355$ for the 10 inch model.  I'm really interrested
if someone could send a quick summary on what gives with Grizzly.
IMHO, I'd prefer buying USMADE, but that's pretty well imposible these
days:-(


billq
From: whit@milton.u.washington.edu (John Whitmore)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: rust prevention & cutting lattice
Date: 23 Jul 92 11:22:31 GMT
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle

In article <62654@cup.portal.com> JEFF-G@cup.portal.com (Jeff - Griffin) writes:
>WD-40 works very well as a rust inhibitor.

	Let me contradict this: WD-40 works very temporarily as a rust
inhibitor.  WD-40 is basically kerosene, with a detergent additive.
Until the kerosene evaporates, it coats the surface and inhibits rust.
When evaporation is complete, only the detergent remains, and THAT has
hydrophilic character (i.e. attracts water).  

	For long storage, heavy grease, cosmoline, or wax will protect
steel.  For most uses, iron oxide (Fe2O3) is a fair rust preventive,
and this is the 'coating' on blued steel, as well as on most
hot-rolled steel stock.  Also handy in preventing rust is simple
polishing (which reduces the surface area), as with a buffing
wheel and emery or rouge.  

	There are products on the market which contain (I think)
peroxides, that can be brushed or sprayed onto steel, which 'blue'
the metal without heat; they can even convert brown rust into
black oxide (but work better on clean metal).

	John Whitmore

p.s. I prefer polishing; especially for a plane sole or a shovel,
added gunk is NOT an option while using the tool. 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: A Grizzly Tale, or Some Assembly Reqd
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 00:53:12 GMT

Gary Preckshot writes
> In article <1992Jul19.054315.8648@usenet.ins.cwru.edu>,  
an625@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Kryl Logan) writes:
> 
> > I don't see anywhere in this posting where you gave Grizzly a chance to
> > resolve your problems.
> 
> Perhaps you mistook what's happening here. What you are seeing is Grizzly in
> the act.  They have a chance, and I'll publish anything they do.

You've only given them a chance to talk, not a chance to act. As assembly 
problems arose you didn't call Grizzly, you preemptively corrected them 
yourself. You don't want to give the bandsaw back; after all you "like it now."   
There's nothing left to do anymore except talk.

Among the few decent outs you've left for Grizzly are to apologize, thank you 
for the input, ask you to call customer support when you run into a problem, 
and claim that they'll do better in the future - perhaps send a few gratis 
bandsaw blades as a conciliative gesture.

So far, you've gotten the "we do appreciate the feedback" and "thank you for 
your past patronage" out of Mr. Balolia. I don't imagine you're vain enough to 
need the apology, or avaricious enough to really want some trinkets for your 
trouble.

So, that leaves him with what I consider the essence of your original letter: 
"...please don't reply unless you want to talk about what you are going to do 
about making bandsaws smarter rather than just cheaper." But, the operative 
words in that sentence are "talk about." 

Grizzly has already "acted" in the sense that they shipped a product that  
needed more work to run right than Gary appears to have expected. We could 
postulate all day about what Grizzly would have done about the faulty inserts, 
miter gauges, shaft burrs, out of balance wheels, etc. But, the time for 
Grizzly to act has already passed.


- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com

PS: Perhaps I am missing something: Gary implied in the side bar after his 
second letter that we might see "more responsive action" forthcoming following 
a deluge of letters. I wonder what action, beyond words, that could be.
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 28 Jul 1992 13:36:16 -0800
From:         RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM
Subject:      Re: Corian tops for router tables
X-To:         WOODWORK%IPFWVM.BITNET@pucc.Princeton.EDU

It seems to me that the requirements for a router table are almost exactly the
same as for a table saw table (flat, hard, smooth, miter channel, heavy,
strong, etc...). So I'm in the process of converting an old cast iron table
saw into a table for a 15 amp 1/2" router.

I got the gutted table (no moter or arbor) and legs for $20 with an add in the
Recycler (a used junk jurnal in my area).

I'm about 1/2 way through the project. I've cut a bigger hole in the cast iron
top (plunge cut with metal cutting blade in a circle saw (worked supprisingly
well)) and fit the router to the underside by grinding away some reinfocments.

I'm still working on a plug for the original insert and when I get it fininshed
I'll post my results.

It would be an easier project with an aluminum table top insted of a cast iron
one, and I'm some what out of my element working in metal insted of wood; but,
at $20 you might want to consider a recycled table saw insted of a $150 - $300
space age plastic.

                                Ron
From: kroth@sunshine.Kodak.COM (David Kroth)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: More Grizzly stuff...
Date: 21 Jul 92 16:59:56 GMT
Article-I.D.: kodak.1992Jul21.165956.4226
Distribution: usa
Organization: Eastman Kodak Co., Rochester, NY



Hey, with all this discussion of Grizzly lately it got me to thinking...

How long has Grizzly been in business?


Dave Kroth
kroth@acadia.kodak.com
From: MOSIER@UNCG.BITNET (Steve Mosier)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: BIFOCALS
Date: 27 Jul 92 17:17:17 GMT
Organization: University of NC at Greensboro
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
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> An aging woodwooker has been confronted with the need to use
> bifocals.  How well do bifocals work in the shop?  There are two
> types, progressive (no lines) or the conventional type.  Can
> anyone provide some advice?

I have trifocals -- I need the middle section for this computer screen -- and I
don't have any problem working in the shop.  However, I frequently have to tilt
my head way back to look at something up close.  I don't mind the lines and
wouldn't really want the progressive type.  But I am thinking about getting a
pair of workshop glasses with the bifocal part higher.  Auto mechanics
frequently get the bifocal part on top.  I'm not sure I want it on top, but it
might be better if the bifocal part occupied a much larger area.

steve - W3GRG
mosier@uncg.bitnet
mosier@iris.uncg.edu
From: tw@nominil.lonestar.org (Tw Cook)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Benches
Date: 30 Jul 92 01:44:47 GMT
Reply-To: tw@issi.com (Tw Cook)
Organization: just a random person from Georgetown, TX

In article <1992Jul29.195114.14440@usenet.ins.cwru.edu> wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy) writes:
>
>Has anyone out there who CAN'T afford oak and cherry built the
>bench that Normy built on NYWS?  I sent away for the plans and it
>seems like a nice bench, plus it uses common 2x4's etc.- things I
>can afford to buy.
>
>Any comments?

I built Norm's bench a couple of years ago with the rationale that it was
cheap, and if I used it for a while I might figure out what I *really* want
someday. I altered the dimensions a bit to make it fit the shop (4" shorter
if I recall correctly) and added a large Record vise in addition to the one
that came with it.

It has worked out quite well for me. It isn't quite as elegant as the Tage
Frid kind of bench, but it is pretty functional. The only real problem is that
it is pretty light, and needs to be either weighted or anchored if you're 
going to do much serious planing on it. It will probably last me a few
more years, anyway.  I'd recommend it to people who are on a limited budget
of either time or money, particularly if you're not certain what you want
in a bench. I figure someday (when I have time and money to get serious 
about this) it'll make a great second bench; until then, lack of a functional
bench is no longer an impediment to getting projects done.

-- 
Tw Cook (occasional visitor at nominil.lonesome.com)
tw@issi.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking