HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: ramos@cbnewsj.cb.att.com (richard.ramos)
Subject: table saw problems
Organization: AT&T
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 18:29:18 GMT
Keywords: bad vibrations


I own a bottom-of-the-line 8" craftsman direct drive table saw that I'm having
problems with.  Since I've been on a tool buying binge lately I can't run
out and replace it without risking a divorce :-).  (I am, however, starting
to grease the skids by slipping subtle complaints into our conversations).

Anyway, a couple of weeks ago I bought my first replacement blade for the
saw.  I bought an Oldham proffessional (?) carbide tipped blade from a local 
home depot for about $29.00.  After installing the blade, a cut a small 
piece of pine and concluded that I had the best tool known to man.  The cut 
was far better than anything produced on the saw until then.  A few days later
I decided to put it to work and started ripping 3/4" birch.  I was scared
for my life!!  The thing was screaming as the blade started oscillating.
It would oscillate every few inches until it tore out a kerf wide enough 
so that it wouldn't contact the stock any more.  While this is going on 
I'm practically crouched down and holding onto the wood for dear life.
The blade gouged the edges and completely burned the wood.  I could have
done a better job with an axe.

The oscillations can be described as kind of a sawtooth function where they 
increased in violence until it hit peak amplitude and then stopped suddenly.
I spoke to an employee at woodcraft who suggested that the entire motor
assembly might be vibrating. So I went home and tightened every bolt I could
find.  The results are somewhat better now but I suspect its because I've 
learned to control the feed rate better.

Has anyone out there had such an experience.  Is it a saw or is it a blade
problem.  I was thinking that the problem might be related to the fact that
the saw only has a 1/2 HP motor and can't handle the birch.  I've realigned 
my fence so I don't think that's the problem.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks 
Rich Ramos
908-576-6267
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Thu, 23 Jul 1992 16:36:57 EST
From:         Bob Upson <SVUPSOR@VCCSCENT.BITNET>
Subject:      How to REALLY write a FM

CONTENT: Info
SUMMARY: 'it takes great peace of mind to assemble WHAT?' department
E-ADDR:   svupsor@vccscent.bitnet
NAME:     Bob Upson
PH/ADDR:  804-736-8484 Rt1 Box 15 Keysville, Va. 23947
PHAX:     804-736-8578

    I recently purchased a tool at no little effort, and for more money than
most folks make in a minute. I'd like to share the operating instructions:
******************************
GUIDE-NAILS: To be no hammered more the Fingers!

1) Introduce the nail in one of the holes lightly inferior to the nail,
   which will deep firmly supported in vertical position.
2) Leaf the sharp-pointed extermity of the nail stand out a little from
   the base of the instrument to receive the nail.
3) Give some beats of hammer in the head of nail in order to obtain one
   principle of suitable placing.
4) Finish the nail after having retreated the Guide-nails by simple
   pressure in the two provided arms for them.
*****************************
comments welcome. Bob.
From: mglacy@lamar.ColoState.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Wood kitchen counter tops... Kind?  Finish?
Date: 31 Jul 92 19:37:15 GMT
Organization: Colorado State University, Fort Collins, CO  80523

>wood counter tops.  I saw a monster piece of 1x15 Maple in the wood
> ...(and thought it make a good counter top)...

My guess is that this is asking for major warping/cupping/cracking problems.
Presuming that the counter top is fixed in position so that cross grain
movement is not possible, I don't think the wood will survive in one
piece very long, even considering the relative dimensional stability
of maple.  It would help if the board were sawn into say 3 1 X 5 pieces,
and glued back together with the grain directions reversed, but I'm
guessing that won't do the job. This is the reason, I presume, why
wooden counter tops etc. are so frequently made out of lots of
1 X strips glued together.

As a caveat, I would have to say that I'm not a maple user, but I
do have a fair amount of experience with problems of dimensional
stability :-(.

>store yesterday, and have been wondering how it would work as a counter top
>if I glued an additional 10-12" or so to increase the width.  
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Mike Lacy  Dept. of Sociology  Colo. State Univ.   Fort Collins CO 80523
Opinions and truth-claims offered above are mine, not my employer's.
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
From: tomb@hplsla.hp.com (Tom Bruhns)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: More on 3-phase power
Date: 24 Jul 92 14:26:11 GMT
Article-I.D.: hplsla.5650083
Organization: HP Lake Stevens, WA

stevenj@microsoft.com (Steven Johnson) writes:

>Can anyone tell me for usre if there are 
>wicked "voltage spikes" that travel back down the line when operating
>(or turning off) a 3-phase converter?  The rumor is that these voltage
>spikes occur when turning off the converter, and can travel back on the
>circuit and do damage to other household appliances in your house, like
>the TV, VCR, stereo, etc.

If you turn off the converter when the current is crossing zero, then
there should not be a significant transient introduced into the supply
side.  A proper SCR or TRIAC controller would do that automatically.
It _may_ be important to have a place for the stored energy of the
converter to go (e.g., the inertia of the rotor as well as energy
stored in inductances and/or capacitances), but I don't really know
enough about them to say for sure...in any event, that's on the
converter side of the "switch", not on the supply side.
>
>Second question:  IS there a device (and what is it called) that can
>convert single to three phase power, drive the target 3-phase motor
>with variable speed, and filter out any of the rumored voltage spikes?
>If so, where do you get such a beast, and how much are they?

Yes.  Look for a power inverter.  Dunno if they are still in business,
but Invertron would be a company to look for.  However, you won't like
the price; it's basically a big power amplifier driven by a (three-
phase in this case) sine wave generator.  You can get them in versions
that handle a range of frequencies as well as a range of amplitudes.
For the 5 hp range, expect a few thousand $ (and be happy if it's less),
for variable freq and voltage.  There's a thread over in misc.
consumers.house that's related to this, having to do with power
generation and selling power back to the utility.  games@milton.uw.edu,
or something like that, for the originating author.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bednarek@bonfire (Dennis Bednarek Mfg 4-6971)
Subject: stain removal
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 92 09:01:10 GMT

  I'm trying to refinish some old (1920) furnature.  The head ache I have is that  some of it is oak and some is mohogany.  The little lady wants all the wood to   match are present woodwork (DeVoe special walnut on oak) which is only slightly  darker than golden oak.  How do I get that ********** anniline die out of the
  mohogany?  I have tried several strippers and beleaches with very poor luck.
  
  HELP       Help     help     help     helP     HELP

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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Thu, 23 Jul 1992 11:31:44 -0400
From:         MARK SCARINZI <E7P2SCA@TOWSONVX.BITNET>
Subject:      Finish Nailers

I am considering the purchase of a finish nailer which take 1" to 2.5"
nails.  If you have any suggestions or comments I would appreciate your
input.

        Possible considerations include:

                1.      Grizzly Model G2413
                2.      Paslode Model MU212
                3.      Sears   Model 9HT18315
The above are all in the $200 price range.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bednarek@bonfire (Dennis Bednarek Mfg 4-6971)
Subject: Re: Benches
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 92 04:59:15 GMT

 
  My present workbench was slooped together about 3 years ago when I built my
 present home.  I needed a bench now and couldn't wait.  It's 10 feet long and 
 anchored to the basement stairs for stability.  (i had a portable one that       kept walking all over several years ago)  The top is made of 3/4 inch sub  
 flooring with a layer of hard tempered masonite over it.  It has open shelves 
 underneath that turn into the greatest collector of sawdust, planer shavings
 etc. that I wouldn't hope on my worst enemy.  For a vice I have 2 edge mounted
 wood vices, and a removable steel anvil type.
   If I ever get away from 50 other projects at one time I will completely 
 rebuild this monster.  Remember if you don't do it right the first time you
 may never get a chance to redo it.
From: kassover@rumsey.crd.ge.com (David Kassover)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Table saw blade height.
Date: 27 Jul 92 02:31:18 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: GE Corporate R&D Center

In article <1992Jul26.164028.25842@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com writes:
>Two opposing recommendations were posted recently on the blade extension
>height to be used for ripping. The pamphlet "Getting the most out of your
>Table Saw" (by the Delta tools people) has this to say.
>
>"Ripping Wide Stock. Stock is considered wide when it measures at least
>4 inches between the fence and the blade. Adjust the height of the ripsaw
>or combination blade approximately 1/8 to 1/4 inch above the thickness
>of the stock. While there seems to be some disagreement as to how the
>blade should be set, the 1/8 to 1/4 inch setting is by far the safest
>way to position the blade. It gives a very smooth cut. True, with 
>maximum blade projection there is the least friction on the rim of the
>blade and less chance of burning the workpiece. The blade also cuts
>faster. But using the blade this way may cause excessive chipping of the
>wood and greater exposure to the whirling blade. Most experts recommend
>that the blade projection should be no more than 1/4 inch above the
>stock."


R.J. DeChristoforo recommends positioning the blade so that the
bottom of the deepest gullet is 1/4 inch above the work.

On steel rip blades, and carbide cutoff blades, this is not very
high.  On my carbide tipped combo blade, though, this projection
is about 1.25 inches.


-- 
David Kassover             "Proper technique helps protect you against
uupsi!khazad!kassover	          sharp weapons and dull judges."
kassover@aule-tek.com                   F. Collins
kassover@ra.crd.ge.com
From: mmf@evolving.com (Mark Frazier)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Handcutting Dovetails
Date: 23 Jul 92 13:57:36 GMT
Distribution: world, na, usa
Organization: Evolving Systems, Inc.

tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin) writes:
: 
: Wow, I can believe it about your back... ick!
: 
: I'm a little surprised, since this technique works so quick and easy for me.
: However,  maybe that's due to the fact that I'm of the "tight joints, loose
: placement" school of woodworking.   The old geezer who taught me actually
: forbid me to use a tape measure, because he thought minor variations (+/- 1/16
: or 1/8) in spacing gave the piece more "life" than "dead regularity" did.
: I've learned to get pretty good without careful measureing, except
: measuring piece versus piece.
: 
: Could the differences we experience in speed be due to the difference in
: approach to accuraccy?  I get tight joints and visually even tails,  but
: a good ruler shows they are not evenly spaced.

Yes, I think you have a good point here. I'm definitely Type-A personality
perfectionist, and I like my dotails to be perfect, no cracks, no fillers.
As I E-mail to Bennet on this subject, I'm a veteran guitar player of 20 
years, and I like my fingers, so I tend to be real careful around the saw.
The dovetails I cut using this technique did come out perfect.

What can I say? I aspire to the things I see in FWW! :-)

MMF
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: rlw@IDA.ORG (Richard Wexelblat)
Subject: Re: Corian tops for router tables
Organization: IDA, Alexandria, VA
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 92 11:31:05 GMT

millios@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (william.l.millios) writes:
: A while back, somebody posted what sounded to me like a great idea:
: use Corian as a table top for their router table.
: 
(ETC)

WEAR HEAVY-DUTY BREATHING AND EYE PROTECTION WHEN WORKING CORIAN.
-- 
--Dick Wexelblat  (rlw@ida.org) 703 845 6601
  The more viruses you get exposed to, the better your immune system becomes.
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (Gary Preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: A Grizzly Tale: Mr. Grizzly replies
Date: 22 Jul 92 20:45:43 GMT
Organization: LLNL

In article <DRAND.92Jul17162353@spinner.osf.org>, drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas Rand) writes:

> With all due respect.  What did you expect from him?  IMHO I would 
> not expect cooperation from someone I'm threatening.  
> --
Greatness lies in the way we deal with the difficult.  I simply offered Mr.
Grizzly an opportunity.

G.
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Sat, 25 Jul 1992 09:37:24 EDT
From:         ZGDSHSE <ZGDSHSE@SJUMUSIC.BITNET>
Subject:      For: ramis@cbnewsj.att.com

My guess about the screaming small direct drive table saw is that the
blade and mitre grooves are not parallel.  Check these carefully,
as even minor variation will cause major cries of distress from
both saw and user.  Also, if using jigs with the rip fence check
to ensure the inner surface along which the wood to be cut rides is
parallel to the blade.  It may look right, but be a 32nd off and
screw everything up for you.

I find it important to check that blade and rip fence are parallel on
each rip cut (to reduce my distress level).

Good cutting|

Gene Sampson
From: dfarr@ASRR.ARSUSDA.GOV (DAVID FARR)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Cutting sheet goods - best way?
Date: 29 Jul 92 12:22:00 GMT
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-To:         woodwork <woodwork%ipfwvm@cunyvm.cuny.edu>

A very recent FWW or FHB had a detailed article on this subject.

Dave Farr     DFARR@ASRR.ARSUSDA.GOV
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Thu, 23 Jul 1992 13:26:41 EDT
From:         Doug Cutler <UNCDWC@UNCVM1.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Grizzly Combination sander G1014
              23 Jul 1992 11:20:06 -0600 from <BOULAN@TECHNET.NM.ORG>

On Thu, 23 Jul 1992 11:20:06 -0600 <BOULAN@TECHNET.NM.ORG> said:
>On the other hand, Woodworkers Supply has a policy of complete customer
>satisifaction. I'm sure they would have exchanged the product had you brought
>it to their attention.

    I was at WWS this morning and looked at the combination sander and some
of the other Woodtech (sp) tools side by side with Delta.  My superficial
impression was that the finish on the machine part of Delta was smoother
but this was by feel because both did have machining groves in the tables.
The overall construction of Delta was heavier but that is maybe what you
are paying for.  As for the combination sander, I decided that though the
stand was probably OK for supporting the machine the metal was thin enough
that I was expect it to vibrate and the machine to be somewhat noisy, I will
admit to not asking for a demo at this time which I would certainly do before
a purchase.  The tables were Aluminum as expected but in a couple of places
the green paint hadn't been machine off sugesting an inacuracy in the origional
pattern (miter slots).  I don't know how other machines are set up but belt
adjustment is be two screws on either side to move the front roller in/out/
skew, is this normal?, not just a dirty big lever like a belt sander.  I looked
at a jointer and again it appeared OK but as another person has posted what
you see on the floor may not be what you get suggesting that quality control
may be sloppy.  So I cannot really say if Woodtech is better/worse than Grizzly
not owning or having seen any Grizzly tools but the current discussion on this
list has made me wary of any "Off Brand" machine tools and even some reliable
name like Delta, one only has to look at some of their lower priced tools to
so that the same things are available from Grizzly, Woodtech, Pen. Industries
etc. therefore it seem to me that it is of prime importance that the dealer
will stand behind what he will sell, offer MONEY BACK if you are not satisfied
I dont want $200 or $300 or $more store credit if something doesn't work as
specified because I don't really want to deal with the guy again!!.  I will
say one thing in favour of WWS, I got a Scroll Saw at Christmas, it came from
WWS and I got the price advertised by Tool Crib of the North, $15 less with
no problem at all.


  Doug. Cutler                       Office of Information Technology,
  VM Systems Programmer              University of North Carolina.
From: kroth@sunshine.Kodak.COM (David Kroth)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: clock movements: where do I find them???
Date: 21 Jul 92 16:56:09 GMT
Article-I.D.: kodak.1992Jul21.165609.4140
Distribution: usa
Organization: Eastman Kodak Co., Rochester, NY



I was at a recent artsy-fartsy show here in Rochester and several
of the dealers had some interesting clocks for sale.  The clocks
I am interested in consisted of interesting woodwork with a clock
dial/face/movement inserted in them.  The clock units reminded me
of watch movements or travel alarm clocks.  I would like to get
ahold of some of them and insert them in my own "works of art".

Dave Kroth
kroth@acadia.kodak.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Sat, 25 Jul 1992 09:29:59 EDT
From:         ZGDSHSE <ZGDSHSE@SJUMUSIC.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Grizzly Combination sander G1014

In response to the mail on belt/disk sanders.  I have owned
a Craftsman 6X48 belt w/ 9"(?) disk sander.  It was fine for
my small shop and light use.  I had to sell it to move to NYC
and just bought a Central Machinery (cheap) similar model
from Harbor Freight for $200 (they paid freight).

Actually I like the Central Machinery one better.  I use it quite
a lot to do rough sanding, straighten out my screw ups, and to
correct mitres a tad here and there to get a perfect fit (on
the disk).  I am very satisfied.

I do find the machine vibrates, but then I plan (who knows when this
will come about) to build a roll around cabinet for it to use the
space below the machine for storage, and to get it out of the way
easily.This space is terribly wasted on most equipment and I hope
to eventually utilize it all by building roll around cabinets.

Gene Sampson
From: news@tivoli.UUCP (New owner)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Keyless Chuck: yea or nay?
Date: 24 Jul 92 21:46:57 GMT
Reply-To: twb@tivoli.com (Tom Bereiter)
Organization: TIVOLI Systems Inc., Austin, TX

The contractor I learned about cordless drills from never used a key even with
the regular chuck.  You just put the clutch on low, get a good grip on the chuck,
then let the drill tighten itself. It works, but the notches can tear up your
hand.  A keyless has no sharp edges, so the above technique is the recommended
one.
From: tomb@hplsla.hp.com (Tom Bruhns)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 21:36:43 GMT
Subject: Re: More on 3-phase power
Organization: HP Lake Stevens, WA
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

stevenj@microsoft.com (Steven Johnson) writes:

>In article <Jul.24.14.16.48.1992.27570@pilot.njin.net>, ron@pilot.njin.net (Ron Natalie) writes:
>> > If you turn off the converter when the current is crossing zero, then
>> > there should not be a significant transient introduced into the supply
>> > side.  A proper SCR or TRIAC controller would do that automatically.
>> 
>> Proper or not, a SCR or TRIAC can't shut off excpet at zero.
>
>OK, what's a SCR and a TRIAC?  What do the acronyms stand for, and 
>what electrical behavior do they exhibit? (I'm trying to get an 
>understanding of why one of these is benficial.)  Also, how are
>they wired into the 3-phase circuit?  Are they rated, like most
>other components, to handle 220V?
>
>These sound interesting, but I'm getting conflicting feedback.  Some
>responders have said a rotary converter won't cause *any* problems
>on the input side of the line, but this thread implies there *will* be
>potential problems. WHat's the real story?

Ron's right, of course, that SCR's and TRIAC's turn off when the current
through them drop to (near) zero.  However, in a controller, a snubber
across the SCR/TRIAC could possibly cause the external current to be
somewhat different from zero.  This _generally_ wouldn't be a problem.

An SCR is a solid-state power switch.  It turns on with a small control
current to its control electrode.  They are available from the milliamp
range up to kiloamps.  When "ON", the voltage drop is low, around a
volt and a half; when "OFF", the current is low.  SCRs conduct in
one direction only, but TRIACs conduct both directions.  SCRs are
perhaps a bit more robust, but require other parts (typically
bridge rectifiers) to handle AC both directions.  Both turn off only
when the current through them drops to a low enough value (typically
less than 1% of the rated max current), and cannot be turned off
from the control electrode.

I don't know if a rotary converter will or will not cause problems
when turned off; I only meant to observe that _if_ you disconnect it
or 'most any other load when the current through the load is zero,
there will be essentially no transient on the supply side.  On the
other hand, if you disconnect it when the current is max, any 
inductance in the series circuit will try to continue the current,
and will try to adjust the voltage to maintain current.  That
typically means a voltage transient, potentially a very nasty one.
BTW, I could easily believe that a lightly loaded rotary converter
could have a significant power factor, so that the current would
NOT be zero when the voltage is zero.

In general, an SCR or TRIAC controller is a pretty clean way to
switch AC power loads.  They do have to be designed carefully so
that any transient when they switch won't cause them to be
turned back on again:  too high a rate of change of "OFF" state
voltage will turn them on much as a current into the control
electrode does, sometimes with destructive results.

(Whew, sorry if this doesn't sound much like woodworking ;-) ...

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jpl9k@cbnewsb.cb.att.com (john.p.letourneau)
Subject: Hand Power Planer
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 20:28:55 GMT


Hello net-landers!
	I've been clearing out my enormous collection of backlog news articles.
I hate it when work gets in the way 8-) Well I've read this group for quite
a while and don't ever remember anyone talking about hand held power planers.

I have found a near by sawmill that can sell me rough cut timbers at a VERY
reasonable price. This re-kindled my interrest in trying my hand at timber-
framing. Now I could cut the M/T joints into the rough lumber, or I could
plane them first...since these timbers will be a bit green when I get them,
I think I'd like to plane them when they've dried to a proper level. Now
even though I want to tackle a timber-frame, I don't want to hand plane all
these timbers. Besides I want my garden storage/wood working shop to look
wonderful with these exposed beams!! 8-)

So any experiences out there with hand held power planers?

Thanks!
John