HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: oleg@Veritas.COM (Oleg Kiselev)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Fish people
Date: 13 Aug 92 05:12:42 GMT
Reply-To: oleg@veritas.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Organization: Palo Alto Killifish Loft
X-Disclaimer: I speak for myself only unless explicitly indicated otherwise

tse@ra.nrl.navy.mil (Anthony Tse) writes:
>	What do you mean?  Discus are easy.

Yes, they are easy.  But have you ever seen a serious discus breeding set up?
It makes the killifishers' fish farms look tame.
-- 
"... i heard the droning / in the shrine
	     of the sea-monkey / palace of the brine ..." -- Pixies.
Oleg Kiselev                                             oleg@veritas.com
VERITAS Software                           ...!{apple|uunet}!veritas!oleg
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: nclennan@churchst.ccs.itd.umich.edu (Neil F. Clennan)
Subject: Re: [F][W] Heater,themometer, and lighting questions.
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 92 12:16:13 EDT
Organization: The University of Michigan, Ann Arbor
Distribution: usa

In article <1992Aug17.180538.29721@rtsg.mot.com> ferrer@rtsg.mot.com (Arnold S.  
Ferrer) writes:
> 1) How many watts does a heater have to be for a 30 gallon tank?
>    In the FAQ, it states 2.5 watts per gallon. So for a 30 that
>    would be 75 watts. But in a book that I have it says 10 watts
>    per 1.25 gallons, making it 240 watts for a 30 gallon. Well,
>    which on is it 75 or ~240?

I've seen suggestions ranging from 2 watts per gallon to 4 watts per
gallon, but 10 watts per 1.25 gallons sounds to me like it's right
out of the ballpark. If your book says that, I'd consider getting
another book. I'd stick with 2.5 watts per gallon.

Neil Clennan

nclennan@churchst.ccs.itd.umich.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: nick@socrates.umd.edu (Nick Lemberos)
Subject: Re: Coral safe for Freshwater tanks?
Organization: University of Maryland University College
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 17:31:46 GMT

In article <Bt798B.J85@space.physics.uiowa.edu> dyson@sunfish.Physics.UIowa.EDU writes:
>In article <22929@hacgate.SCG.HAC.COM>, frazier@maxwell (Greg Frazier) writes:
>> nick@socrates.umd.edu (Nick Lemberos) writes:
>> : subject says it all.  found some nice coral while down in the florida
>> : keys (some I bought, others I found in the water).  
>> 
>> Coral is not good for freshwater tanks.  It will cause
>> your water to harden.  Also, it is considered in poor taste
>> to purchase coral, and only an asshole removes it from the
>> ocean.  Yes, that was a flame.
>
>
>Not only an asshole, but a CRIMINAL one.  It is a federal offense to
>evne TOUCH coral in the ocean inside the US waters!

I wanna thank you guys for all the name calling.  It is nice to know
someone can ask a question, get answers and insults all at once.

I didnt harvest any LIVE coral.  I picked up 4 dead coral rocks from a
rock beach down at Key West.  We are talking rocks, white and abundant,
like what all the Keys are made of.  Very very dead and useless.  

While there are some protected areas (John Pennecamp State Park), I 
find it VERY hard to believe it is a crime to "TOUCH" coral every-
where in the US.  You are not supposed to touch anything when diving 
but there are no indications that touching coral was illegal.

I stand politically corrected.


nick

-- 
Nick Lemberos					nick@socrates.umd.edu 
   Academic Computing				     ^ sew-crates
      "Doing life with no chance for parole"       -L. Anderson
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: cliff@watson.ibm.com
Subject:  Snails, Particle Board Stands, Underground Filters		
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 13:18:17 GMT
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center

I came across a nice fishtank stand for a 110 gallon tank that was
made of that compressed particle board.  The fish store sells it.
Shall I assume that the particle board can really withstand the
weight?	

What are the pros and cons of having a snail in a fresh water tank?

Discus fish seem so beautiful, but I understand they need acidic water,
high temperatures (>80 degrees), and are very picky eaters.  Does this mean
that they are very difficult to keep?  Do other fish easily tolerate
these different water conditions?

Again the fish store guy tells me I should have both a cannister filter
AND an underground filter for a 110 gallon tank.  I believe from what
people have said here that an underground filter is not necessary if
you have a powerful cannister filter.
From: dc37@prism.gatech.EDU (COLLINS,DONALD J)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Another Beginner's Questions
Date: 14 Aug 92 17:25:59 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology

I am currently in the process of setting up my first tank since I was a 
kid.  I would like to get suggestions from you guys on a couple of things.
The equipment I have so far consists of:
1) 45L tank (45 gallons 48"x12" surface)
2) Eheim 2215
   From bottom to top, medium
     Efimech (small ceramic tubes)
     Efifix  (Easter Grass)
     ChemiPure
     Efisynth (Polyester fiber wad)
3) 2 100 Watt Visitherm Heaters

I would like to set up a FW tank with african ciclids, a catfish, and some
dither fish.

My questions are:

1)  How many fish can I have?  I have gotten estimates from "1 pair of ciclids
    + 5-6 dither fish + a catfish" to "Oh you should get at least 40 ciclids
    and thats all"

2)  Do I need an UGF?  Boy all sorts of answers on that one too! From "ciclids
    dig too much for a UGF and they're bad anyway, I never run them."  to 
    "I have lots of tanks and you do need one."  Will my Eheim 2215 not be
    enough?

3)  Someone said that for African ciclids to use crushed coral gravel, any
    comments?  One book said that no crushed coral should be used in FW.

4)  In a related question to 2, if I do get a UGF in addition to the Eheim
    do I need power heads or just air to run them?  Also, can I somehow run the 
    water from the UGF through the Eheim to filter the dirt, etc from
    under the gravel better?

5)  Does anyone have any suggestions on good test kits for a beginner?  I
    would like to test enough to be able to correct problems but I don't
    want to over do it.  i.e. should I be testing ammonia, nitrites, nitrates,
    and ph or do I need to test more or less than these.

6)  Does any one have any of the optional Eheim equipment for the filter
    they would recommend.  I have two double isolating valves.  What about
    the prefilter or the airator that you can get.  I saw some info on the
    surface extractor--does it really improve water quality that much?  I
    considered placing a sponge on the intake for the Eheim for both a pre-
    filter and a biological filter--will this work?  Finally, what about
    the biological filter mediums for the Eheim--If they are good how much
    do I need to get?  Will this affect my need for an UGF?

7)  How many inches of each filter material do you suggest in the Eheim, and
    In what order should I place them?

Sorry for all the questions--
Thanks Heaps!

Jason 


-- 
COLLINS,DONALD J
Georgia Institute of Technology, Atlanta Georgia, 30332
uucp:	  ...!{decvax,hplabs,ncar,purdue,rutgers}!gatech!prism!dc37
Internet: dc37@prism.gatech.edu


-- 
COLLINS,DONALD J
Georgia Institute of Technology, Atlanta Georgia, 30332
uucp:	  ...!{decvax,hplabs,ncar,purdue,rutgers}!gatech!prism!dc37
Internet: dc37@prism.gatech.edu
From: mwerling@snoopy.umd.edu (Michael T. Werling)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: more Fish People
Date: 18 Aug 92 16:15:40 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Maryland, College Park


I first got interested in getting a tank after I had been scuba diving
in Hawaii (my first scuba trip).  Since I am a poor student, I thought
I could get some of the enjoyment of scuba out of aquaria, at a lower 
price.  I got the enjoyment...


Mike

p.s. Anyone with any DIY plans, please send them to me. ANYTHING (regarding
aquaria, of course...)  e-mail me for snail mail address.
From: trimpe_b@wums.wustl.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: RE: glass vs plexiglass
Date: 13 AUG 92 15:56:36 GMT
Organization: MIT PLASMA FUSION CENTER
NNTP-Posting-Host: msnews.wustl.edu


	Sorry I couldn't extract the previous posters text but ti gave 
transmission data on glass vs polymethacrylate.  The poster mentioned
reading plexiglass(polymethacrylate) in a UV/VIS spectrophotometer.  This
got me to thinking.  We use polymethacrylate 'cells' (sample holders) to 
read in our spec but only in the VISIBLE range-generally considered
to be about 340nm to 1100nm.  I scanned an empty cell- the absorbance
from 1100 down to 315 nm was about 0.082(scale 0 to 1) or basically nil. 
At 315 nm the absorbance jumped to off scale.  This tells me that the plastic
absorbs all the uv light from 315nm down to 190nm.  The only range of
UV light passing thought the cell is between 315 and 340nm. Legit conclusion?
I am also assuming this polymethacrylate would be the best choice of
plastic since these cells were manufactured for use in a spec.
My guess is glass for an aquarium is better if you are worried your plants
are not getting enough rays.  Of course most hoods(i think) have a 
plastic deflector between the light and the water although my tiny desk
top plexiglass 'hex aquarium kit' does have a sheet of glass between the
light(incandescent) and the water.  Hmmm
Beverly
Dept of Clinical Research
Wash Univ Med Scl.(the one in St Louis)
From: sar@philabs.philips.com (Sidney A. Rosenzweig)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [F] Red Lobster
Keywords: need info
Date: 20 Aug 92 15:18:17 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Philips Laboratories, Briarcliff Manor, NY.

In article <1992Aug19.183254.29337@cbfsb.cb.att.com> goo@cbnewsb.cb.att.com (frank.m.macauda) writes:
>
> I was wondering if anyone on the net can give me some
>information on a creature I saw today at a local fish     
>store. They had it labelled as a fresh water Red Lobster.
>It was about 6 inches long with a mottled red shell.
>
> Would this beast be compatible with some small African
>cichlids? Where does it come from? What environmental
>and dietary requirements does it have? I want one but
>not at the expense of disrupting my current population
>or risking it's life and $9.99.

My dad had a 3" freshwater lobster in his 55 gallon tank a few months ago. He
had it for about 9 months. It had a vicious demeanor, and always snapped at
the 6 Jack Dempseys who shared the tank with him. The lobster would even lift
up the plastic cave that the Dempseys liked to hang out in, just so it could
snap at the fish.
Well, one afternoon the lobster molted. The Dempseys ate the defenseless
lobster in a feeding frenzy, splashing water all over the floor.
Maybe other people have had better luck with lobsters and cichlids.

Sid
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: bhaskar@brtph598.bnr.ca (Shaji Bhaskar)
Subject: Re: Aquarium Backings
Organization: Bell Northern Research Inc.
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 00:00:17 GMT

In article <Bsxz4J.2FI@news.cso.uiuc.edu> igorl@uiuc.edu (Igor Livshits) writes:

>Spray paint it black.  You just can't go wrong with a black background.

Spray painting has its drawback - it is semi permanent. You can scrape
it off if you decide you don't like it, but only if you are very
careful when you apply it.  I know of no easy wayn to get rid of any
paint that you allow to seep into the inaccessible area between the
trim and the glass.  Not a problem at the bottom since the gravel will
cover it, but it can be an eyesore at the top.

-Shaji.
-- 
Shaji Bhaskar     BNR, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709     (bhaskar@bnr.ca) 
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: dbailey@bcarh673.bnr.ca (Douglas Bailey)
Subject: Re: Help with making stand for 2 55g tanks
Reply-To: dbailey@bcarh673.bnr.ca (Douglas Bailey)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 18:53:33 GMT

In article <1992Aug14.182523.26624@bnr.ca>, dbailey@bcarh673.bnr.ca (Douglas Bailey) writes:
|> 
|> I believe a 55 gallon tank is 4' long.  For any stand 4' or greater
|> in length, you should really use 6 verticle members.  One in each 
|> corner, plus one in the center of each 4' horizontal member.
|> 
|> Doug Bailey

I realized after I posted this that if you want to place a tank below
the stand, a verticle member in the center wouldn't work very well.

I'm not convinced that a 4' span of 2x4 would support 500 lbs of aquarium
without deforming.  If I was you, I'd either give up the idea of putting
a tank below, or use some material for the horizontals which is 
stronger than a 2x4 (a 2x6 or 2x8, for example).

Good luck.

Doug Bailey
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Paul A Prior)
Subject: Re: POWER FILTERS
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 13:49:58 GMT

In article <1992Aug20.123236.7597@kong.gsfc.nasa.gov> mstephens.520@postman.gsfc.nasa.gov (mark stephens) writes:
>After suffering thru maintaining the old dynaflow filters, the one
>with a 'real' moter at the base, I thought that the Whisper filters
>were the best thing since sliced bread.  They were self starting!!!
>Wow, what a concept.  They also are fairly whimpy filtration wise
>and the water fall effect can be a nuisence.  Then I got an Ehiem canister
>and have never look at another Whisper/aquaclear again.  The canister
>allowed me to keep a tank in the living room (and my sig other!).
>
>One problem with the Aquaclear is the sponge, when it gets cloged, tends to 
>float up and have caused water to get out of the filter.  

Well, Mark, if you're waiting till the darn sponge is -clogged-, then
you need to clean it out anyway! <big grin!>.  I really like the 
aquaclears for the sponge factor.  Makes for a stable biofiltration bed.


-- 
--------pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu----(614) 621-8240----------------
Paul A. Prior    Ban anchors, not reef tanks   "With friends like this,   
3rd year medical student		          who needs anemones?"
The Ohio State U. College of Medicine   Tobacco Kills- Please don't smoke!
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: youshen@fraser.sfu.ca (You-Sheng Kang)
Subject: Novaqua and phosphates
Organization: Simon Fraser University, Burnaby, B.C., Canada
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 19:32:59 GMT

This is regarding a thread that a netter posted a while ago in sci.aquaria.
I was wondering is anyone could confirm this. The poster said that using
Novaqua in the recomended dosage could lead to an increase in phosphates.

By the way, I am going to use this in a freshwater aquarium.

thanks,
youshen@sfu.ca
From: sf@saviour.UUCP (Sam howard     )
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Fluval Filters
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 92 18:56:01 EDT
Organization: Genius Systems, Poughkeepsie NY

Hi.
 
I currently have a 75 gal. with a couple of Oscars and 1/2 dozen
Tin Foil barbs, and ...well...they're kinda messy eatters...  ;)

right now, I am running two Wisper 3 power filters, but those darn
fish are going to run me broke just changing the filter pads!!!

So, I am contemplating a canister filter -- the Fluval 303 (about
$60US mail order)...any comments about said filter?  is it too big?
is it too small

I was going to replace one of the Wisper 3's with the Fluval, should
I replace both, or none?

How about other types of canister filters?  Enheim, etc?

Thanks,
Sam.

p.s. - if no one minds putting up with replies on the net, that is
easier for me (I can read news at work, just can't post...) but if
you'd rather send private e-mail, I won't complain!  ;)

=============================The Saviour System ==============================
==================1 (914) 452 5538 ------ Open 24 hours a day ================
                         sf@saviour.UUCP (Sam howard     )
From: raible@cbmvax.commodore.com (Bob Raible - LSI Design)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Angle Fish breeding temperature
Date: 12 Aug 92 19:57:40 GMT
Distribution: rec.aquaria alt.aquaria
Organization: Commodore

In article <1992Aug11.230214.25699@tfs.com> luke@tfs.com (Luke Matam) writes:
>I recently became the owner of two large angle fish. I keep these in a 40 gallon
>tank together with a pair of corys. I have observed the fish kissing - lip-locked
>and wrestling and went to the library and looked up for some info about
>breeding. The temperature for breeding is listed at 86 F. This seemed very
>high to me and I would like to know if any of you have bred Angle fishes and
>what temperatures did you successfully use ?
>
>-- Luke
>-- 
>Luke S Matam
>luke@tfs.com
>(510) 704-3262

This is higher than required, mostly my angels (P. scalare) spawn at temps
in the 80-82 deg F range. I believe that the absolute temp isn't as 
important as temp swing. Mine tend to spawn after a water change. If you
want to maximize your odds, do a partial water change and feed worms and
other live foods for a few days. If nothing happens try raising the temp a
degree or two over several days. Good luck.

Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:6670 alt.aquaria:4667
From: richmond@flipper (Stupendous Man)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Tetras need a new home (guppies, too)
Date: 21 Aug 1992 18:53:38 GMT
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
Distribution: ba
NNTP-Posting-Host: flipper.berkeley.edu

   I'm moving to the East Coast soon, and I have to find a new 
home for the inhabitants of my two tanks.

     Tank 1: 29-gallon soft, somewhat acidic water
             4 cardinal tetras
             1 neon tetra 
             3 head-and-tail-light tetras
             1 large Corydoras sp. catfish
             2 (or 3?) Otocinclus catfish
                  there is a large crypt and a big Amazon sword, too,
                  together with more Anarchis than you take        

     Tank 2: 10-gallon soft, somewhat alkaline water
             ~15 fancy guppies, mostly male (a few babies)
             
If you can help them, and me, out, please let me know.  I'd like
to take down the tanks before Monday, Aug 24.  Unfortunately,
I have no car, so you'll have to stop by my apartment to pick 
them up.  But the price can't be beaten!  They're all free.

Please send E-mail - you can try calling my office (510) 643-8530
of you like.

                         Michael
-- 
--
"Haven't you got better things to do        Michael Richmond
 with your time than grope a cat?"          richmond@bkyast.berkeley.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: stu@mbsdev24.shearson.com ( Stuart Bernstein )
Subject: Single vs Double Strip Hoods
Organization: Lehman Brothers
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 13:05:37 GMT

  What are the Pro vs Con arguments with Single and Double strip hoods ?

  I have a 55 gallon tank with a glass canopy.  I plan on keeping live
  plants in the tank.  I am trying to decide if I should buy two single 
  or one double strip hood for lighting.

  The two single strip hoods are wider in depth than 1 double, but
  you can stack the two singles when opening the canopy I am told.

  I would appreciate any advice with anyone who has decided this 

								Thank you
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: patton@phy.uab.edu (David Patton)
Subject: Re: Fluval Filters
Reply-To: patton@phy.uab.edu
Organization: University of Alabama at Birmingham
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 18:34:41 GMT

well I tried to email this, but it bounced


From Mailer-Daemon Thu Aug 13 13:36:33 1992
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bad system name: saviour
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Date: Thu, 13 Aug 92 13:36:31 CDT
From: patton (David Patton)
Message-Id: <9208131836.AA00427@uabphy.phy.uab.edu>
To: saviour!sf
Subject: Re: Fluval Filters


Just curious about the problem with the whisper filters pads. Do you turn them
off during feeding of the fish? I have always kept my power filters off for about
30 minutes. This lets the messy eaters finish their meal while the scraps fall to
the aqaurium bottom instead of being sucked into the filter. Then either the
scavengers in the tank will take  care of the leftovers or you will siphon them out
periodically. 

>From my understanding of how canister filters work I am curious as to how you
believe they will not filter out just as much waste as the power filters.  
It seems to me the filter media will need replacing in the canister just as much
as in the power filter (possibly more if the canister turns out to be a better
mechanical filter).  

Also I would suggest you order any filter and media through mail order fish stores.
Hopefully you already do this. If not save some money.

Hope this helps!

patton@phy.uab.edu



Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: ffujita@s.psych.uiuc.edu (Frank Fujita)
Subject: Re: Wet Dry + UG reverse flow debate
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1992 20:12:43 GMT

frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier) writes:

>The consensus on the net and elsewhere (I have no personal
>experience) is that having no substrate is better for your
>tank.  However, if you really want to have a substrate, putting
>a reverse UG under it is a fairly good idea.  It will halp
>prevent ditrius from accumulating in it.

I am new to the hobby, but have been reading voraciously, and would say
that Greg is absolutely right.

Frank Fujita
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: murf@spike.comet.ucar.edu (John Murphy)
Subject: wet/dry + reverse ug -- more questions than answers?
Organization: COMET/Univ. Corporation for Atmospheric Research, Boulder  CO
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 15:37:40 GMT

I still have more questions than answers concerning the debate of whether
or it is a good thing to return the flow of a wet dry filter to a u/g filter
reverse flow.  I have further questions--- 

1. Can the u/g filter still harbor bacteria when running reverse flow.  If
it can then does the return flow from the wet dry contain these bacteria?
If there is no anerobic bacteria in the return flow of the wet/dry filter then 
u/g reverse flow seems like a good idea.  If it does contain bacteria is it
possible for the bacteria to get caught in the u/g filter when the water is 
flowing up, not down?

2.  Most people now reccomend nothing on the bottom of a reef tank.  If you
like the asthetics of something on the bottom is the reverse flow u/g wet/dry
combo a compromise solution or a bad idea period?

3. What are the advantages/diadvantages of using sand instead of nothing or     
instead of this wet/dry reverse flow u/g idea?

questions, questions, questions.....if I get a consensus of what seems to be 
best I will definitely post what I figure out.

John

--
John Murphy			murf@comet.ucar.edu
UCAR/COMET			(303) 497-8494
PO Box 3000
Boulder CO 80307-3000
From: sbjie@engr.psu.edu (Sanjay Joshi)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: test
Date: 21 Aug 92 14:04:51 GMT

this is test, ignore !!!
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: cliff@watson.ibm.com (cliff)
Subject: Showing Off
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 16:44:56 GMT
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: A

I wonder if aquaria people are like hi-fi or sports car owners?  Maybe, they like to
show off their fancy filters, sometimes much more powerful than necessary,
to do the job.  Perhaps rather than hiding their cannister filters, they
bring them out and up front with pride, rather like a hi-fi owner
showing off super-speakers, equalizers, and amps.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria