HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 13 Nov 1992 08:56:44 EST
From:         ZGDSHSE <ZGDSHSE@SJUMUSIC.BITNET>
Subject:      Excaliber Extension for Sale

Hi Kevin -

I guess you didn't get my last post.  I am interested in the
table saw insert/router table by Excaliber you mentioned.
I would like to know more about it.  Know of a catalog I
can find it in?  I've looked, but cannot locate it.  Also, I
don't know about the material it is composed of.  Any help you
can give will be appreciated.

Please let me know, as I am ready to buy or build.  I need to get
this going for a major moulding making project I am about to
undertake.

Please let me know -

Thanks - Gene Sampson
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis)
Subject: Re: Circular Saw recommendations
Organization: OSF Research Institute
Date: 9 Nov 92 14:14:11

In article <BxGL9M.45H@vuse.vanderbilt.edu> eap@vuse.vanderbilt.edu (Edward A. Parrish) writes:

   A recent issue (Oct or Nov) of Consumer Reports had a good
   article on circular saws. Believe it or not, the top rated
   saw was a Sears model that my local store has for $129.95.

This is not quite true.  The Sears model was third- or fourth-rated,
but was rated a "Best Buy".  This means a particularly good value for
money.  The saws that rated higher (Bosch etc.) cost > $200 list.
However, as we all know, the mail-order prices of most tools are at
least 40% below list, whereas Sears tools are sold very near list, so
the value-for-money comparison was not fair.

	-s


Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-Envelope-to: WOODWORK@IPFWVM.BITNET
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 6 Nov 1992 15:35:00 CST
From:         AUIDCC@AUDUCVAX.BITNET
Subject:      Re: Delta Sawbuck Frame & Trim Saw

I have not looked at the Sawbuck, so I can't comment on it.  I recently
bought the Hitachi C8FB ($449 from International Tools in Hollywood FL).
I have only used it for one job, so far.  This was replacing floor joists
in a 15-sided house.  I was very pleased with the saw.  While I could have
done it with a circular saw, it would have taken much longer and I probably
would have ended up with not as nice a job.

Steve
From: tlp00@climb.as (Tibor Polgar)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: chest of drawers
Date: 11 Nov 92 01:33:04 GMT
Reply-To: tlp00@climb.as
Organization: Sun Microsystems


While on the subject of chest of drawers,  i have to make some for a pre-school.
The requirements are: 
   flush mount drawers
   easy opening (5 year olds)
   durable (ditto)
   no way for the drawers fall out (see above)
   Able to remove drawers if needed
 
All of your wonderful ideas are welcome.
From: FABY@NMUMUS.BITNET (FABY000)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Sources for Good Quality Woodwork to Sell
Date: 10 Nov 92 00:16:16 GMT
Article-I.D.: NMUMUS.09NOV92.20813088.0016.MUSIC
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU

One way to identify good furniture workers with quality rpoducts is at
juried crafts shows around the country.  I noticed that some of the
furniture makers in the midwest have booths at all of the major crafts
shows in this region.  Roger Barry
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Wed, 11 Nov 1992 19:14:26 EST
From:         Jim Morgan <JMORGAN@BROWNVM.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Sharpening and using scrapers

>Posted on 11 Nov 1992 at 17:47:12 by (warren.a.montgomery)
>
>Sharpening and using scrapers
>
>How much should I realistically expect a scraper to be able to
>do?  Should I expect it to smooth fairly rough stuff?  How smooth
>a surface will it produce when properly treated and used?  Should
>I have multiple scrapers sharpened differently for rough and
>find work?  Will it do anything productive on end grain?
>
>I used the "file and burnish" technique to sharpen mine with
>moderate success, but the process is still very much trial and
>error to me.  Is it worth investing in a burnishing gadget?
>
>Any good references on the use and care of scrapers?
>

Tage Frid includes a lengthy discussion of sharpening and using scrapers in
the first volume of his 3-volume set.  He recommends an exacting and tedious
sharpening method, involving benchstones, which many others seem to find
excessive.  Over the past two or three years, Fine Woodworking has included
several articles on using and 'souping up' scrapers.

Scrapers come in various thicknesses.  Thicker scrapers, such as the Sandvik
474, can accommodate more extreme hook angles and are more suitable for
rough work like removing old finishes, scraping glue joints, and so forth.
Thinner scrapers, such as the Sandvik 475, are better suited for fine
finishing work.

A related tool is the cabinet scraper (e.g., Stanley #80), which consists of
a scraper blade (sharpened at 45 degrees prior to burnishing) mounted in
a cast iron frame that resembles an overgrown spokeshave - two winged
handles and a squarish sole.  A thumbscrew adjusts the bowing of the blade
and controls the depth of cut.  Since the sole of the scraper rides across
depressions on the surface of the wood, this is my tool of choice for
removing milling marks.

Some other companies (such as Lie-Nielsen) make scraper planes which appear to
be attempts to improve on the cabinet scraper, but I've never used one
of these.

I have the Veritas Variable Burnisher (recently marked down to $29.95) on
my wish list this year - seems like a good idea if you're going to be
using a scraper a lot.  Ulmia also makes wheel burnisher, but this sells
for $$$$$$$ (the strong deutschemark, you know.)

Jim Morgan
Brown University
James_Morgan@Brownvm.edu
From: neek+@CS.CMU.EDU (Craig Marcus)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Sources for Good Quality Woodwork to Sell
Date: 9 Nov 92 23:06:44 GMT
Organization: Carnegie Mellon University

Fellow netters.  I would like to open up 
a small shop which would display and sell
good quality solid hardwood furniture made by
various craftsmen around the country.  

What do you think the best way is to go about
finding folks who may have high quality
tables, chairs, etc to sell ?   Any pointers
to good crafts shows that specialize in 
woodworkers would be helpful.  Also, 
names of trade publications or names
of local organizations/guilds would be useful.

Thanks in advance,

Craig Marcus
Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: sgs8r@kelvin.seas.Virginia.EDU (Steve Strickland, sgs8r@virginia.edu)
Subject: Re: Portable heaters in shop
Organization: Dept. of Systems Eng., U.Va.
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 19:53:09 GMT

In article <BxE0wz.3J4@da_vinci.it.uswc.uswest.com> kenk@lookout.it.uswc.uswest.com (Ken Kaliszewski) writes:
>With the onset of winter I was wondering what others out there do to
>heat their shops.  I'm looking mainly for comments on portable heaters,
>both electric or kerosine and how safe they might be in the shop.  I
>currently have no dust collection system and I am a little concerned about
>starting a fire or something.
>
>Any comments are appreciated.
>
>Ken

I use a 50K btu torpedo-style heater which works great. I keep the immediate
vicinity of the heater clear of debris and would probably shut it off if I was
generating a cloud of dust (e.g. from a thickness sander), but otherwise it
works great. Oh, I also cut it off when using volatile finishing compounds. I
think these fan-equiped, torpedo-style heaters are the way to go. Typical
upright kerosene heaters, which rely solely on convection/radiation don't cut
it (also too few btu). 

-Steve Strickland
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: Router Table Inquiries
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 18:34:27 GMT

Jim Morgan writes
>... I am
> seeking an alternative way for cutting mortises on a router table
>...  My idea was to
> be able to raise the bit straight up into a (stationary) piece of wood
> to begin the mortise cut and later to lower the bit straight down out of the
> wood to end the cut.
> 
> Once again, I ask: Has anyone out there built anything like this?  Any ideas
> on how best to engineer such a device?

Shopsmith sells a device that converts any router to an overhead plunge
router. The device suspends the router *above* the table, and gives you
a drill press like lever to lower it (the thing rides in a brass
dovetailed way). The column/arm/plunge assembly is about $300.

There's a fancier version in the Garrett Wade catalog. This looks like
a radial arm saw, but instead of the motor theres a base to which you 
attach your plunge router (you actually need to remove your router's
metal base and insert the rods into the unit). This thing not only
gives you a long lever to control plunging, but gives you two axes of
rotation, and like a radial arm saw, lets you slide the router along
an arm. For short cuts, you could fix the wood to the table, plunge
the router in and slide it, then plunge up. This thing is really
expensive (over $1K).


The cheap answer, however, is to remove your plunge router from your
router table and use it like it was designed - hand held.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-Acknowledge-To: <PH500000@BROWNVM>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 9 Nov 1992 09:39:16 EST
From:         Bob Pelcovits <PH500000@BROWNVM.BITNET>
Subject:      Circular Saw recommendations

I rip a lot of large plywood sheets using a circular saw; right now I
use a very cheap Skilsaw. Budget and space limitations prevent me from
getting a table saw large enough to handle 4x8 sheets, so I will continue to
use a circular saw.
 I would like to
get a better circular saw and would appreciate people's recommendations.
Should I stick with a 7 1/4 blade or go down to 4 1/2? I would like to
spend less than $150. Thanks,


                                  --Bob Pelcovits
                                  Robert_Pelcovits@brown.edu
                                  (401)-863-1432
                                  FAX (401)-863-1157
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: waligora@hsi.com (Robert Waligora)
Subject: Re: chest of drawers
Organization: 3M Health Information Systems, Wallingford CT
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 17:11:50 GMT

In article <89sx02xr2aqL01@JUTS.ccc.amdahl.com> tlp00@climb.as writes:
>
>While on the subject of chest of drawers,  i have to make some for a pre-school.
>The requirements are: 
>   flush mount drawers
>   easy opening (5 year olds)
>   durable (ditto)
>   no way for the drawers fall out (see above)
>   Able to remove drawers if needed
> 
>All of your wonderful ideas are welcome.   
> 

If you are concerned about safety, you might want to consider only allowing
one drawer to be open at a time (ie. if all drawers are open, and they are
full will the chest fall over on the kids). It is really simple. All you have
to do is run a string through eyelets in the back of the drawer.

Good luck!

-- 
  /--------------------------------\    /-----------------------------------\  
 /          Robert Waligora         \  /      {uunet, yale}!hsi!waligora     \
/           waligora@hsi.com         \/             (203)949-6481             \
From: leisner@wrc.xerox.com ( Marty Leisner)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Skil 7621 sander?
Date: 9 Nov 92 18:39:50 GMT
Reply-To: leisner.henr801c@xerox.com
Organization: Xerox
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]


In the  November, 1992 of Popular Woodwording, they reviewed belt sanders.
The talks about the Ryobe 424 (a 4 x 24 belt) and the Skil 7621.
The skil 7621 looks exactly like the Ryobi 321 I have...Is it?
I wonder the ryobi 321  wasn't mentioned (I've never seen the Skil 7621 advertised).


--
marty
leisner.henr801c@xerox.com  leisner@eso.mc.xerox.com
Member of the League for Programming Freedom
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: Straight Edge for Jointer Alignment
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 20:47:25 GMT

paul.burnett@pcs.sj.ca.us (Paul Burnett) writes:
: 
: BN>Nope, not that flat. If you want an optical flat, then you have
:   >to grind it. The procedure is the same as grinding any other flat
:   >surface. You grind three surfaces against each other.
: 
: BN>Plate glass is visually flat only.
: 
: Okay, but it's certainly more than flat enough to set planer blades,
: isn't it?  Besides the wunnerful advantage you can see through it....

Yep - if the sheet is thick/wide enough so that it doesn't sag from
its own weight. I suspect that it would also be less likely to damage
a blade than a steel straightedge.

Bill
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: D1SAR@VM1.CC.UAKRON.EDU (Steve Rimar)
Subject: Pickup truck cover
Organization: The University of Akron
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 11:59:00 GMT

Has anyone seen or made a flat cover for a pickup truck bed? Not a cap
but one that fits inside the top edge of the bed ot rests on top.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
*                                                                       *
*  STEVE RIMAR                       INTERNET: D1SAR@VM1.CC.UAKRON.EDU  *
*  INFORMATION SERVICES              BITNET:   D1SAR@AKRONVM            *
*  THE UNIVERSITY OF AKRON                                              *
*  AKRON, OHIO  44325           "TOO MUCH OF A GOOD THING IS WONDERFUL" *
*                                                                       *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
From: ALEX@NKI.BITNET (Bill Alexander)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Planing glued-up boards
Date: 12 Nov 92 17:25:09 GMT
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU

I remember an author in FWW a while back (don't remember the issue) describing
his method for flattening glued-up panels: he builds them in 12"-wide sections
and runs them through his planer before gluing up the sections to each other.
Won't this trash the knives? (Or is it worth it to have a nice, flat tabletop.)
From: gringort@wsl.dec.com (Joel Gringorten)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Dowel hole locater jig available? self made even?
Date: 30 Oct 92 01:46:32 GMT
Reply-To: gringort@wsl.dec.com (Joel Gringorten)
Distribution: na
Organization: DEC Western Software Lab


Bill's tack based scheme deleted.

>  any suggestions in improvising such a tool?

Just nail small brads into one piece of the work where you want the
dowels to go.  Using side cutting plyers, nip the heads of the brads 
close to the surface, leaving a bit showing.  Tap work together. 
Seperate and pull brads out with plyers.  Drill holes where nails
were and where they left a dent on the other piece. 

I think I got this from reading Tage Frid.

-joel
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ostapiak@helios.physics.utoronto.ca (Orest Ostapiak)
Subject: help turned pedistal refinishing
Organization: University of Toronto Physics/Astronomy/CITA
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 16:56:23 GMT

    I am in the process of refinishing mahogany/walnut end tables
that use to belong to my grandparents. What is the best method for
sanding the elaborate pedistal that supports the table. I have already
rough sanded the old finish off but need to finish sand. My preference
would have been to turn it on a lathe to sand, but the legs which are
glued in place present a problem since they expand the effective turning
diameter to about 30 inches.  Are giant lathes available ? Do I tear the
legs out ? Or do I just labour away at what seems to be a daunting task ?
  Any suggestions or wisdom would be greatly appreciated since this step
has been a real stumbling block.
                                Thanks,  Orest

-- 
Orest Ostapiak    graduate student
ostapiak@helios.physics.utoronto.ca
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Problem with router
Date: 12 Nov 92 01:03:42 GMT
Organization: LLNL

In article <1992Nov9.181100.10753@slustl.slu.edu>, guy@slustl.slu.edu (Guy Smith) writes:
> 

> My solution was to junk the Sears router and buy a Porter Cable.

I have to second this advice.  If you can't seat the bit fully in the
collet and tighten it securely without some sort of kludge, it's hard to
see how you'll get any kind of repeatability.  How much are you out, anyway?
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 6 Nov 1992 09:56:55 -0600
From:         Jeff Roberts <JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Problem with router
              5 Nov 1992 15:53:13 -0600 from <rdc@WORLD.STD.COM>

On Thu, 5 Nov 1992 15:53:13 -0600 Ralph D Clifford said:
>     I am having a problem with my router.  It is not holding the bit firmly
>enough.
              <text deleted>

 I had the same problem with my Sears router (1HP).  But my bit slowly worked
 its way out of instead of up into the collet.  I'll bet if youclean the
 inside
 of the collet out with the point of a rag you will get black residue from it.
 Obviously I'd clean this portion of the router and the bit itself then crank
 down on the collet with a wrench like you're King Kong.  This fixed my
 problem
 after making one very interesting sloped dado which I had to shim.


Jeff Roberts JROBERTS@UTDALLAS
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: Nick_Janow@mindlink.bc.ca (Nick Janow)
Subject: Re: Straight Edge for Jointer Alignment
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1992 04:37:18 GMT

armstrng@cs.dal.ca (Stan Armstrong) writes:

> I would like to do this, but what kind of wood can you find that will stay
> as straight as a straight edge needs to be under changes of temp. and
> humidity?

The subject line is "Straight Edge for Jointer Alignment", which as far as I
know, refers to one-time use of a straightedge.  Unless you're _really_ slow
at alignment, the temperature and humidity shouldn't change enough to distort
the straightedge significantly.

If you are inquiring about how to make permanent straightedges, that's a
different topic.  I'd use the same technique using metal bars, or just buy a
metal straightedge.

Actually, I'd probably be satisfied with the 5' straightedges I have.  They
are stressed-skin panels using 1/8" plywood and a strip of hardwood along one
edge, planed to straightness by the method already mentioned.  They haven't
varied significantly in the two years I've had them.  I built them as rails
for surfacing with a router.

--

Nick_Janow@mindlink.bc.ca
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Lathe recommendations?
Date: 10 Nov 92 16:51:43 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: LLNL

In article <24121@alice.att.com>, garry@alice.att.com (garry hodgson) writes:
> 
[stuff deleted]
> 
> I've been thinking about looking for a lathe this year.
> I don't know much about them, and have no previous experience
> to draw upon.  I'd be interested in turning some bowls,
> sticks (for martial arts use), etc.  I don't have a lot
> to spend, maybe ~200.
[questions deleted]

Just to steer you clear of something that might be too much hassle, I recently
bought a "wood copy lathe" for about $350 from Enco, but the same lathe
appears also to be sold by Harbor Freight and Grizzly.  I looked at the
lathe before buying it and decided to buy it because I had a business
purpose for which I needed the copy feature.  I knew I was going to have
trouble and I certainly did.  The copying mechanism has one sliding bearing,
one rotating bearing, and a 1" rack-actuated ram to hold the copy bit.  All
of them were loose and the machine as supplied was more or less
useless  for making accurate copies.  I've since installed bushings and
brass bearing surfaces to clean up the imprecision and the machine does
what I want.  However I wouldn't buy this machine without open eyes if
I were you, no matter how good the price, even though the copy mechanism,
when it is working correctly, allows you to cut profiles in thin flat stock
which it then converts to round images.


Gary

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: grun@intellistor.com (Paul Grun)
Subject: Re: Circular Saw recommendations
Organization: Intellistor, Inc.
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 92 00:16:26 GMT

In <BxGL9M.45H@vuse.vanderbilt.edu> eap@vuse.vanderbilt.edu (Edward A. Parrish) writes:


>In article <WOODWORK%92110909475021@IPFWVM.BITNET> Bob Pelcovits <PH500000@BROWNVM.BITNET> writes:
>>I rip a lot of large plywood sheets using a circular saw; right now I
>>use a very cheap Skilsaw. Budget and space limitations prevent me from
>>getting a table saw large enough to handle 4x8 sheets, so I will continue to
>>use a circular saw.
[...]

>A recent issue (Oct or Nov) of Consumer Reports had a good
>article on circular saws. Believe it or not, the top rated
>saw was a Sears model that my local store has for $129.95.

It seems to me that Sears stuff often comes out on top of the
Consumer Reports ratings....either they're testing stuff
substantially different than what I see in the store, or
else (more likely) their criteria for evaluation is *significantly*
different from mine.  Seems like their criteria is often driven
more by $ and less by quality considerations.

On the subject of the best way to cut 4x8 sheets, there is one
school of thought that thinks that a tablesaw is an okay way
to do it, but maybe not the best.  This past weekend I saw
a demo of an Exac-t-cut system (I think that's how they spelled
it) and the demonstrator made a fairly convincing argument that
it's a better way to rip 4x8 sheets.  I think he had a point..
He claimed that three things contributed to the accuracy of
his cuts using the Exac-t-cut:
1. he used a Forrest blade with a blade stabilizer,
2. the Exac-t-cut system, and
3. a circular saw with "nice, tight bearings." (his words).
Oh, BTW he was using a Ryobi circular saw.  FWIW...
Can't say if that qualifies a Ryobi as a great circular
saw to buy or not...

-- 

goes to show, you don't ever know...
grun@intellistor.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: Acrylic Problem
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 06:06:07 GMT

peterson@ucunix.san.uc.edu (John M. Peterson) writes:
: >wood.  The scraping works, but slowly, oh how slowly.  And I'm afraid to
: >experiments with solvents; I could easily destroy the surface.
: 
: After much trying I have found that turpentine is the ONLY thing that
: will do the job.  Wet the surface with turp and keep it wet for about
: an hour, by then the glue is soft enough to scrap off.  This is a slow
: and messy process but does work. ( No mineral spirits will NOT do the     
: same thing.)  Alcohol will do a quicker job BUT, the cooling/shrinking
: of the surface causes it to craze -- visably.  Nice affect if you don't
: need a clear surface, otherwise go the slow turp route.

I have never had a problem using alcohol. I just spray it on the paper,
let it sit for a minute, and the paper peels right off. I have never had
a crazing problem but, if you do, just add some water to the alcohol. That
will reduce its activity.

Bill
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking