HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jennings@tran.fishkill.ibm.com ()
Subject: trusty old jetta needs help....	
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 92 18:52:33 GMT
Reply-To: jennings@tran.fishkill.ibm.com ()
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center

Hello all!		

My '83 Jetta has an intersesting oil leak. First, about the car. It's
got approx 140,000 miles, starts and runs flawlessly, and gets about 35
MPG. There is never any smoke in the exhaust (both at startup or during
driving), nor is there any oil blown about in the engine compartment.
So, here's the problem.

After long highway trips, there is oil dripping from the air pre-heat
valve. I took the top of the air filter box off, and the air filter is
soaked with oil. The oil must be coming in from one of the breather
tubes (I guess?), but I don't know where to begin looking. The car only
does this at highway speeds or under heavy loads. On the highway, about
1 qt. of oil per 300 mi. is pumped out. During around town low speed
driving, no oil is lost. Oil pressure normally runs 2 bar at idle, 4 bar
at highway speed, and the oil temp stays consistantly between 90 and 100 C.

Have any of you folks out there had similar problems?  Any clues where
to look first?

Many thanks,	

Bill     wrj@vnet.ibm.com
From: michaelb@compnews.co.uk (Michael Burton)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Why not split the group?
Date: 3 Jan 93 14:46:50 GMT
Organization: Computer Newspaper Services, Howden, UK.
NNTP-Posting-Host: annatto.compnews.co.uk
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4

I think we should have a Audi group as well, as there a quite a few references to Audi in the VW topic. I know it is the same company but it would make things 
easier.


--
          Buy an AUDI.......you know it makes sense!!!!!
	  There is NO COMPROMISE!!! (Well maybe a BMW)!
	  From Michael Burton.      (AN AUDI OWNERR
	  E-mail michaelb@compnews.co.uk
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: BARANSKI@veamf1.nusc.navy.mil (Jim Baranski)
Subject: VW Bug Rear Window Vents
Organization: Naval Underwater Sound Center, New London CT
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 92 20:13:59 GMT
X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.20

I asked this a while ago, but didn't get any response...

Inside next the rear window in my '72 Bug, there are what appears to be some
kind of vent openings.  On closer inspection it looks like these 'vents' are
blocked, or do not go anywhere.  Can anyone enlighten me as to what these are,
and their use?

Next to these vents is a LARGE Phillip screw on each side of the Bug, like
about an inch across the head.  I was thinking of mounting a couple of small
speakers on brackets on these.  What are they for?

From what I remember my brother's bug from when I was a teenager, he used to be
able to create a flat space in the back by folding the back seat down.  When I
fold my back seat down, it's no where near flat.  Am I doing something wrong?
Was I Hallucinating?

Jim Baranski

James Baranski            | It's Not Easy Keeping Vaxen Working ...  Underwater!
Vax Systems Analyst       | BARANSKI@VEAMF1.NUSC.NAVY.MIL 203-440-6510, 889-4968
Lanman Hill, Norwich CT   | Be: Thoughtfull, Honest, Yourself, Happy
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: marcus@vestek.com (Mark Stephen)
Subject: idle question
Organization: Vestek Systems, San Francisco
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 92 20:44:49 GMT

     I have a problem with my Honda Accord (1981), although this is a
VW newsgroup, I thought maybe I could get some advice. 

     When the car starts, it idles at about 1500 rpm, then slows down
to about 300 rpm after a few minutes. The problem is, at 300 rpm, the
car vibrates a lot, and the lights, fan, etc will dim. I am not sure 
if I just need to play with my idle screw, someone told me that it may
be my automatic choke, maybe indicating that I need to rebuild my carb.

     Any input would be grately appreciated, MArcus
From: jgladu@bcm.tmc.edu (grungy (John F. Gladu))
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Help needed with my 72 camper van
Followup-To: rec.autos.vw
Date: 28 Dec 1992 19:26:16 GMT
Organization: Systems Support Center, BCM
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: j.ssctr.bcm.tmc.edu

In article <1992Dec28.181121.6012@novell.com>, dheckman@novell.com (Diane
Heckman) wrote:
[road trip details deleted]
>     Please help!  Now I don't trust the car to start.  We haven't
> tried to start it after last night.

It sounds like the old-ignition-switch-doesn't-make-good-enough-contact
problem to me.  I had/have similar problems in my '61 panel van (which has
'72 Super Beetle wiring and controls).  The symptoms: when the whole thing
has been running awhile it won't start again, even though the rest of the
electrical system seems to be working.

In my case, and in all likelihood yours as well, this is caused by a
worn-out ignition switch.  The electrical contacts in the switch portion
(connected to the lock/key portion) wear out with time.  When the wiring
warms up enough during use the resistance of the wires increases past that
magical point where there's enough ooomph left to make the solenoid kick
in.

Diagnostic:
   The next time this happens... If you can identify the wires on the
ignition switch module that go TO the starter, pull them off the switch and
short them together.  If the starter kicks over then it IS your switch.

Several fixes:
ideal:     get the ignition switch replaced
okay:      install a high-amperage relay between the ignition switch and
the
               starter; your existing wiring has enough ooomph to make the
relay 
               trip and then the relay sends big-time current to the
solenoid; I 
               wired in a rear-window-defroster relay from a bug to do this
emergency: make SURE the vehicle is in neutral, turn the ignition to "ON"
(not
               start), crawl underneath by the right rear tire and
short-circuit
               the terminals on the starter solenoid with a long, plastic-
               handled screwdriver.  THIS IS TRICKY AND CAN BE DANGEROUS!
If you
               don't feel really comfortable doing it - DON'T!  (I once
nearly
               ran myself over doing this...)

Good luck!

bcnu - grungy (John Gladu) '61 Panel, '68,'69 bugs
Systems Support Center -- Baylor College of Medicine
INTERNET: jgladu@bcm.tmc.edu  | VOICE: (713)798-7370
 US MAIL:  One Baylor Plaza, Houston, Texas  77030
From: wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: [W] Vanagon tires
Date: 22 Dec 1992 21:29:40 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: thor.ins.cwru.edu


> [deleted interesting stuff by Jason about Vanagon tires]

First, a question.  Does this information apply to busses?  I have XZX's on
the back of my '77 bus and the front tires are some sort of no-name that
need to be replaced.  I was planning on putting the XZX's on the front and
getting the Sears Roadhandler (i.e. Michelin's) on the back.  Should they
be LT tires?  And should I really NOT have XZX's on my bus?

Second, a note that had this been posted to a water-cooled only group, I may
not have read it.  As Jason mentions,

>BTW, the referenced posting had a "[w]" but isn't this subject also
>applicable to air cooled Vanagons (pre 83)?

Let's keep one group.

Bill
-- 
William Claspy			Case Western Reserve University
Internet- wpc@po.cwru.edu
MaBellnet- (216) 368-3595
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: bernie@metapro.DIALix.oz.au (Bernd Felsche)
Subject: Re: 5 Pot engine
Organization: MetaPro Systems, Perth, Western Australia
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 92 02:48:20 GMT

In <1hsd9hINNi5u@cardamom.compnews.co.uk>
   michaelb@compnews.co.uk (Michael Burton) writes:

>Having read about the bullet proof 5 cylinder engine that Audi produce, I must 
>say that my Audi Coupe 2ltr had done nearly 110000 miles and
>it is still as sweet as a nut.

My Audi 5+5 (which became the "90" in Europe) had 178000 km
on it when sold. Burnt a bit of oil. Mechanic told me it was
all through the valve guides as compression was still good.
BTW: 2144cc engine which is the same block as the original
Quattro.

Had to buy a car which wasn't so thristy, and the Golf GTI
is just about right for the 600km of driving I do in a week.

>I do give it some hammer, but it has a fully VAG service history, and I always 
>let it warm up before giving it any hammer.

Recommended in any car!

>It should be good for at least 200000 miles, most likely more, but I will not 
>have the car then as I am saving up for a Audi Coupe Quattro Turbo. 

>The turbo coupe is the closest relative to the Audi rally car of the past which
>is the one which produced over 600 bhp out of a 2.2 ltr engine.
>I just cant wait.

Somebody had a private import Quattro around town where the
wastegate jammed. Suddenly had 100 bhp more :-)

-- 
+-----+ Bernd Felsche                     _--_|\  #include <std/disclaimer.h>
| | | | MetaPro Systems Pty Ltd          /      \ bernie@metapro.DIALix.oz.au
| | | | 328 Albany Highway,              X_.--._/         Fax: +61 9 472 3337
|m|p|s| Victoria Park, Western Australia 6100  v        Phone: +61 9 362 9355
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: jtong73@calvin.edu (Joanna Tong)
Subject: Knock Sens. Ignition retroinstalls
Organization: Calvin College
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 21:20:10 GMT

Has anybody on the net installed a knock sensor ignition on an older
(e.g. '82)?  I'm just about to attempt it but want to know if anybody
knows anything that could keep me from any major snafus.  

Thanks in advance, 
Peter Tong
jtong73@ursa.calvin.edu

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: zowie@daedalus.stanford.edu (Craig "Powderkeg" DeForest)
Subject: Re: [A] spark plug inserts: what's the best kind ?
Organization: Stanford Center for Space Science and Astrophysics
	<jgladu-291292080539@128.249.27.63>,<C010FK.2vA@inews.Intel.COM>
	<C017K6.Dr8@umassd.edu>
Date: 3 Jan 93 21:06:10

In article <C017K6.Dr8@umassd.edu> rgolen@UMASSD.EDU writes:
 [about an engine eating an accelerator pump with no problem]

Gotta be careful with those carburetor rebuilds.  My brother completely
rebuilt (and removed the fuel injection from) the engine of his '77 bus, only
to lose the engine just after breakin, when one of the screws on the choke
butterfly valve, apparently worked loose and fell in.  I guess a valve got
bungied and chomped, then the piston cracked or something and all hell broke
loose.  There wasn't much left of the port side of the engine.

Of course, the longer cranks, deep cam stroke, and bored-out cylinders didn't 
contribute a bit :-}

--
DON'T DRINK SOAP! DILUTE DILUTE! OK!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mag@minnie.nic.kingston.ibm.com (Michael Gray)
Subject: Re: [w] Dashboard Lights
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 92 13:38:13 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: IBM Corp., Kingston NY

The process is fairly simple, but time consuming... 

1)  Remove the steering wheel.  While not entirely necessary, it makes the job a bit easier.

2)  Remove the dashboard bezel.  This entails, removing the headlight knob, the screws above the
	speedometer and, if I remember correctly, there are two screws above the ashtray.  Also
	the heater control knobs.  You may also have to remove the the radio.
3)  The dasboard is now accessable.  You will need to disconnect the speedo cable.  I think there are 
	are two screws holding the assembly in place, but I can't remember for sure.
4) The lights are little black based twist-in/out types.  You will probably have to get them at the dealer.
	They aren't cheap and cost between $3.00-$4.50 depending on how polite your dealer is.  
5) Reverse the process...

Good luck...

M. Gray
	
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: Re: [A] spark plug inserts: what's the best kind ?
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1992 13:54:45 GMT

In article <29DEC199200245147@venus.tamu.edu>, mthomas@venus.tamu.edu (Mark Thomas) writes:

lots of stuff deleted......



>I had the insert first installed at a shop;  I'm sure they did
>NOT remove the heads.  Removing the heads is strongly advised, so
>you don't get the metal shavings (from tapping the holes) in the
>cylinders.
>
>If you're sure you don't want to remove the heads, after tapping
>and reaming the hole and again after installing the inserts,
>crank the engine for a while with the coil-distributer cable
>disconnected and with the spark plug out, to try to blow out any
>metal particles from the cylinder.
>
A better way of insuring that shavings from the tap do not get into the engine
is to coat the tap with lots of wheel bearing grease. The grease does
two things, one it lubricates the tap, the second, and most important
thing is it collects the shavings on the tap. About half way through
take the tap out, clean it off with brake cleaning stuff or dip it
in gasoline. Dry it off, coat it again, and start tapping. Once you
are done, crank the engine over a couple of times to blow out
any stray fragments.

Ric
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: eric@mis.Tandem.com (Eric Prior)
Subject: For Sale - 1989 VW Jetta GLI
Keywords: VW
Organization: Tandem Computers, Inc.
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1992 18:39:51 GMT

For Sale ====== For Sale ====== For Sale ====== For Sale ====== For Sale ======

1989 Volkswagen Jetta GLI 16V    $11,500

I am the original owner and have all service paperwork.  This car has only
35K original miles and is in excellent condition.  The color is black with
alloy wheels and gray velour Recaro sport seats.  I bought a new VW Corrado
so I'm looking to sell the Jetta.  Below is a partial list of features.

Sunroof
Air Conditioning
Pioneer AM/FM Cassette Pull-out Stereo
Floormats, Front and Rear
Car Cover

The car is located in Campbell, CA.  If interested, call Eric Prior at (408) 285-1936.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: [W] '87 Fox Exhaust Manifold & OXS
From: vka+@pitt.edu (Vishnu K Agrawala)
Date: 2 Jan 93 16:37:39 GMT
Organization: University of Pittsburgh


Hi!
 Thanks to those of you who responded to my question last month about
how to remove an OXS. Unfortunately, I haven't tried any of the
methods yet (drilling, etc.). I think the most feasible solution at
this point would be to replce the exhaust manifold (sans OXS) and put
in the new oxs, loaded with anti-seize :-). 

The dilemna I have is this: My '87 Fox has a 1.8l (1781cc) engine,
LONGITUDINALLY mounted.{Does this use the same exhaust manifold as a
1.8l in any other [W] VW? That is, can I go to a junkyard and pick out
a manifold out of an A2 Jetta of Golf and expect it to go on? Any
thoughts on this? Please reply by e-mail.

Thanks, and Happy New Year.



-- 
/==================================================\ These opinions are
| Rajiv K. Agrawala      rkast2@unixd.cis.pitt.edu | purely my own and do not
| Undergraduate Mech. Engrg., Univ. of Pittsburgh  | reflect those of anyone or
\==================================================/ anything else. Thanks.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: ward@cs.uiuc.edu (Christ Ward)
Subject: Re: idle question
Organization: University of Illinois, Dept. of Comp. Sci., Urbana, IL
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1992 18:10:00 GMT

lagrangj@unvax.union.edu (purplehaze) writes:

>marcus@vestek.com (Mark Stephen) writes:

>>     I have a problem with my Honda Accord (1981), although this is a
>>VW newsgroup, I thought maybe I could get some advice. 

>(Unacceptable Japanese car problem deleted)
>OK, OK.  That's ridiculous.  Honda?  That almost made me want to vote yes
>for splitting the group. so that I wouldn't see it in rec.autos.vw.air.
>But, I approve of solidarity.  One vw group, no other cars, please.
>Post to rec.autos.

Well I'd almost bet you on that one.  I'd bet it would have been
cross-posted to both (if they existed).  But, I'm with you, I'd
much rather see this group stay one.  Long live all VW's.




>-- 
>Josh LaGrange                  *                    
>lagrangj@unvax.union.edu       *           (cute stuff deleted  
>Phone: (518) 370-6908          *
>The views that I express are shared by very few responsible people.
-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Chris T. Ward  DoD#0710   "Don't take life too seriously, you can never come
                           out of it alive."  -?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: sjk@ut-emx.uucp (Phil Alvin)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: need recommend for SF bay area engine rebuild
Summary: John's Mobile Engine Service
Date: 21 Dec 92 16:28:15 GMT
Organization: Fred's Lounge


Regarding good engine builders in SF Bay area, I would have to
recommend          
                 John's Mobile Engine Service

on Claremont St. in San Mateo.  I am not affiliated with ths shop
in any way - I have just found John to be a goood, nice, honest
mechanic who will give you a break if he can.  One year, I was
visiting near Christmas and I needed to replace my clutch but had
no place to do it.  On the 23rd, he opened his shop for me, and we
did it all there and did a valve job to boot.  During that day,
there must have been a half dozen people or more bringing him
Christmas gifts.  That impressed me.  Check him out.  And tell him
Scot from Texas says hi and that my engine is doing fine!

Good luck
Scot
skj@emx.cc.utexas.edu
sjk@astro.as.utexas.edu
'66 Ghia
'57 Bug that is a couple feet shorter than it should be (sob)
From: co940@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Nicholas E. Damato)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Q: ever seen a Diesel Fox?
Date: 29 Dec 1992 01:35:50 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


Question bugheads...
 
I drove rabbit diesels for many years as "basic" "el-cheapo"
transportation.
 
my las rabbit got stopped by a dear at 60 m.p.h. it had 195,000 mi.
and hardly burned a drop of oil...
 
I had the endgine rebuilt and put it in a friends rabbit who
recked that 10,000 miles later.
so, I've got this engine.
 
I found a person with a fox who blew the oil pan and roached the        
engine.
 
Q: anyone have any experience with fitting a 1.7 diesel in a fox?
400 lbs. lighter should get my milage up! i'm just thinking at
this point.
 
any info would be helpful.
 
ned.
From: mucit@cs.rochester.edu (Bulent Murtezaoglu)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: where does the pre-heating hose go?
Date: 28 Dec 92 23:39:31 GMT
Organization: Computer Science Department University of Rochester


I want to re-install the intake air pre-heating hose on my '81
Rabbit.  The previous owner has removed it, and I think re-inslalling
it may help with the white smoke/low mpg problem I'm having on cold days.
The problem is I can't find the place where the hose came off!  Yes I know
one end goes to the thermostat housing on the air filter box.  But where 
does the other end go?  I thought it would be easy to figure out, but I just
spent 10 minutes looking under the hood with a flashlight and couldn't 
find it.  Bentley is no help either.
We're supposed to have good weather for just another day, and I
wanna test my assumption when it gets cold again.

thanks.

-Mucit
From: greis@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Gayla Ann Greis)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Getting the 56 Beetle running...
Date: 26 Dec 1992 21:47:34 GMT
Organization: University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
Reply-To: greis@csd4.csd.uwm.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: 129.89.7.4
Originator: greis@csd4.csd.uwm.edu

From article <Bzs12A.82s@umassd.edu>, by rgolen@UMASSD.EDU:
> As I mentioned in an earlier posting this week, it is time
> to get the 56 bug running again. The last time I drove
> it (12 years or more ago) there was a clunk in the motor, and
> my spare motor seemed to have seized. It also had about 12 years
> worth of dust on it, and 4 very flat tires, and a very dead
> battery.

> It looks like it may be running within the week!!

Gosh! I just absolutely love these kind of stories at this
time of year! Makes my little heart go pitter-pat and I get
all funny feeling inside. (Either that or it was the overdose
on Xmas cookies!)

I just got wind of a Euro '54 that was RHD but got converted :(
sitting a few hours from here, and the owner claims that it
runs and everything. I don't know what kind of other condition
its in.

I guess the guy owes my brother $5K and can't pay, and since
his wife is making him get rid of the car anyways, he said
something along the lines of "come pick it up." Well my
business minded brother knows to take something rather than
nothing when a guy is going belly up, so I may be getting a
rather wonderful Xmas present. Of course, I may not - but I
can still hope! :-) I would hate to see that car get sold off
to scrap to pay creditors - so I hope it comes this way!

Now I just have to manage not to tell anyone who knows me
about it until I know for sure! Aargh! This is tough! Within
the month I might have an "ovalie" to add to the collection.
Now, where the hell am I going to store yet another Volkswagen!?

Oh well, I guess I'll find a place. :-) Ive got 9 ACs, 1 WC and
a 914 already. At least it wont be lonely!

Merry Xmas!
Dan
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: Re: winter tires and steelies question
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 21:42:15 GMT

In article <1hvirgINNkjf@uwm.edu>, jeet@point.cs.uwm.edu (Jitendra Kavathekar) writes:
>Hello Folks,
>
>  This was discussed before on this newsgroup but I would like some
>recomendations from vw owners on a cheap set of steel rims and good snow
>tires for a 92 Jetta gli(16v).  Right now the car is on BBS wheels with
>MXV2's (about as good as  skiis on snow).  Is there anything to look out for 
>when buying the above items? Does VW recommend any particular brands?  How 
>much will a set of 4 cost?

Get a copy of Road & Track and find the Tire Rack or Tire America ads. They
sell the steel rims for about $65 each. VW will sell them to you for
about $115. The rims are OEM rims, in fact the ones I have on the GTI
have the VW stampings crossed out.

You can probably scrounge a set of early GTI mags, or even BMW 4bolt,
mags from the 3 series which will fit. Just found a set of GTI mags
for my wife's GT for $125. They are out there if you look hard 
enough.

Ric



>
>I'll also consult the dealer but I wanted opinions from people that have
>done this also. 
>
>than you and if anyone would like a copy of the responses I get just let
>me know.
>
>jitendra
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: eldred@rrunner.jpl.nasa.gov (Dan Eldred)
Subject: Re: [W] Vanagon tires
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 21:47:40 GMT

In article <jgladu-221292121844@128.249.27.63> jgladu@bcm.tmc.edu (grungy (John F. Gladu)) writes:
>Time to put new tires on my wife's '90 Vanagon and it currently has
>Michelin MXL P205/70R14's on it.  The local tire dealers tell us that these
>are no longer being made and we should switch to EPX's or XH4's.  I've also
>read somewhere in this group something about the load rating necessary for
>use on Vanagons.
>
>I've had no real complaints with the MXL's, except for an affinity for
>steel-belt-edge punctures.  Never had a traction problem.
>
Get the Michelin light truck tires, I believe in 195/70R14.  They're also
sold under the Sears brand name.  You ***really*** need the load rating
of a reinforced tire on the Vanagon--believe me, I know.  These tires seem
to hold up well, and they even have a M+S rating, though traction in the
snow seems lacking.

	- Dan

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: troberts@zia.aoc.nrao.edu (Timothy Roberts)
Subject: [A] `71 Super Bug shakes and shimmies
Keywords: MacPherson, dampener, steering bearing
Organization: National Radio Astronomy Observatory, Socorro NM
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 92 17:45:10 GMT

Hey, Folks!
	My '71 Super Beetle shakes at 35 mph.  Additionally, the
rubber bushing at the top of the driver's side strut assembly is
cracked.  Does this mean I should throw in a new set of struts?  Or
does this point to a new steering dampener?  The "Idiot" book says
that replacing the struts in a Super is an auto shop only affair.  Is
this true?  For my brother's `67 Porsche 912 the springs came
pre-compressed and we just snipped off the cable and they lept into
place.  Can I expect this to happen on my Super, too?  Why is there
air? 

-Tim


Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw