HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: irwin@uvmark.uucp (Frank Irwin)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.racing
Subject: Re: Dismounting Rollers:::::::::
Date: 17 Nov 92 17:45:46 GMT
Article-I.D.: uvmark.1992Nov17.174546.49506
Organization: VMARK Software, Inc.

In article <1992Nov14.185633.799@news.columbia.edu> adr5@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu (Alex D Rodriguez) writes:
>You've peaked my intrest.  Could you please describe just how it is that 
>you get on rollers without assistance or a wall.  While you are at it could
>you also describe how to get off the rollers also.

Like doing anything else on rollers, it's not that difficult, it just takes
practice.  Here's how I do it:

1.  Put bike on rollers.
2.  Straddle top bar of bike, standing on the rails of the rollers.
3.  Sit on seat, and click into right pedal, which is at the top of
    of its stroke.  Left foot is still on the rail of the rollers.
4.  Start riding, by pressing on right pedal.  If necessary, you can
    pedal circles with the right pedal to keep going.
5.  Clip into left pedal.

To get off the rollers, I first unclick *both* pedals as I slow down, then
put my left foot on the rail, as the bike coasts to a stop.  Then I swing
my right leg over the bike, and onto the floor.

This is, of course, best practiced with normal shoes, and without toeclips.
I use clipless pedals, so that makes getting into and out of the pedals a
bit easier.  Standing on the rails of the rollers in cleats is a bit tricky,
as well.

-- 
 ============================================================================
 Frank Irwin                | "We don't get out too often." - Foxwoods poker
 Vmark Software, Inc.       |  dealer, after trying to deal a card underneath
 irwin%uvmark@merk.com      |  the standing button, at my urging.
From: sery@crunch.unm.edu (sery)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.racing
Subject: Rod Bush accident
Date: 16 Nov 92 17:59:48 GMT
Article-I.D.: lynx.jnjqa9k
Organization: University of New Mexico, Albuquerque NM


Rod Bush, a rider for Shaklee, fell off a ladder while at work November 5 
and shattered both wrists.  He was changing a ceiling tile when the 10ft step 
ladder, which was very old, toppled over.  He was rushed to a hospital and 
underwent a 5 hour operation the next day.

His right wrist has multiple and compound fractures.  It required a bone
graft from his hip to fix.  The left wrist also was badly fractured.  Both arms
are currently held together with fixators (they look like Tinker toys) and
splints and will be for six to eight more weeks.  He has use of his fingers 
but they are still badly swollen. 

Rod won seven races this year even after he missed all of June with a bad 
case of the flu.  He also set the Tandem 40K time trial record twice with
John Frey.  He is optimistic about his return next year as are the rest of 
us.  
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.racing
From: kenl@origami.cc.bellcore.com (Ken Lehner)
Subject: Re: Proper setup for rollers?
Organization: Bellcore
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 92 14:30:26 GMT

In article <1992Nov17.030816.10053@slc.com>, marcs@slc.com (Marc San Soucie) writes:
|> 
|> Standing is well possible, though I've never braved it myself. Some of the 
|> younger and more fearless in our club do some standing roller work now and 
|> then, for fun and form.
|> 

To stand, try
1) get up to speed, 
2) stop pedaling,
3) stand up,
4) start pedaling.

You might try only 1)-3) for starters.  When you pedal while standing, you
will probably experience the sensation of falling off the front roller; I
don't know if this would actually happen.

You can then try to ride rollers with your arms on your aero bars, if ya
got 'em.  Getting on them is easier than getting off them, though :-)

Other tricks:  drinking from a water bottle that you take from and put
back into your bottle cage, without looking down (or dropping the bottle,
of course), shifting gears, and riding no hands (heck, I can't even do
that on my bike on the road!).

Haven't tried rollers with someone sitting on my handlebars, yet...
From: marcs@slc.com (Marc San Soucie)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.racing
Subject: Re: Proper setup for rollers?
Date: 17 Nov 92 03:08:16 GMT
Article-I.D.: slc.1992Nov17.030816.10053
Distribution: na
Organization: Servio Corp, Beaverton Oregon, US

Michael R. Volow (mvolo@ecsvax.uncecs.edu) writes:

> webel@guvax.acc.georgetown.edu writes:

> > why would the positioning on the bike be different if you were riding 
> > it on rollers than if you were riding it on the road?

> Probably because seated or standing hill climbing and other variations
> in pedal technique can be helped by a slightly higher, more rearward
> position. On the rollers you are trying to maximize only your spin,
> and the other techniques (e.g. standing) are not possible. Therefore
> a position that is optimized for spin.

Standing is well possible, though I've never braved it myself. Some of the 
younger and more fearless in our club do some standing roller work now and 
then, for fun and form.

    Marc San Soucie
    Portland, Oregon
    marcs@slc.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tthiel@cs.uiuc.edu (Terry Thiel)
Subject: Re: Cannondale MTB's (was Cannondale Crit)
Organization: University of Illinois, Dept. of Comp. Sci., Urbana, IL
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 12:52:37 GMT

A10377@waccvm.corp.mot.com (Michael Duke) writes:
>Does anyone share the same enthusiasm for Cannondale's mountain
>bikes that some have recently expressed for their road bikes here
>in .tech? What about the suspended models? Do they really provide
>a suspended ride?

I like 'dale road bikes although I've switched to an RB-1 and like it better.
The mounatin bike break constanly though.  I know personally of several
people who have had three and four frames due to breakage.                  
-Terry
From: cs92mjd@cen.ex.ac.uk (M.J.Davis)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Cannondale MTB's (was Cannondale Crit)
Date: 18 Nov 92 10:25:23 GMT
Organization: Computer Unit. - University of Exeter. UK

In article Terry Thiel writes:

   >I like 'dale road bikes although I've switched to an RB-1 and like it better.
   >The mounatin bike break constanly though.  I know personally of several
   >people who have had three and four frames due to breakage.                  
   
Whoooaa! Danger! I feel I _have_ to qualify this statement (before 'Dales legal
department comes down on Terry like a ton of Hyperglide sprockets :-). I too
have seen and heard about Dale frame failures (I knew one guy who took out
three in a matter of weeks). But they were _all_ 1991 (3.0 series) 18" frames.
The problem was the combination of 2" down tube, 1" steerer, and short head 
tube. The surface area of the weld was just too small. The 20" frames never
had a problem (that I know of), and nor did either pre-2" tube frames or 
'92 and on frames with Evo headsets. I've never seen a 'Dale break anywhere
but at the head tube welds, and only that particular year/size. I've seen
lots of intact 'Dales ridden by 180lb psychos...

Mikey D

--




"Ride and find where all the freedom has gone..."

Michael J. Davis          |   M.J.Davis@ac.uk.ex.cen
Dept of Computer Science  |   M.J.Davis@cen.ex.uk.ac
University of Exeter      |
UK                        |   #include<disclaimer.std>




   








-- 
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: praetzel@maxwell.uwaterloo.ca (Eric Praetzel)
Subject: Exercise Induced Asthema --> NOT
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 14:30:16 GMT

Yes once again I have found _the_ definative answer.  :-)

At the beginning of the summer various ideas were thrown around for some of
the symptoms experienced by riders.  In the case of my friends and myself
after 2+ hours of intervals/crit racing we would literally fall off of the
bikes because the whole chest would sieze up when trying to inhale deeply.
We could breath in a shallow fashion but not very deeply.
  As it turns out the ventilation pattern changes a lot with exercise.  During
rest you work to expand the lungs but let them colapse under their own
pressure.  When using large amounts of O2 at high breath frequecies you have
muscles that work to collapse the chest cavity.  Fatigue of those muscles is
the most likely cause of this inability to breath deeply.  When they become
fatigued they do not like to expand and so you have various amounts of pain
if you force them.
  One solution is to do some 2+ hour sessions on the trainer.  Most likely
you do not have to push very hard as long as you are actively exhaling.  A
pulse of 150 would probably be enough.
 - Eric
// 5 months till the pavement is bare.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: lloyd@leland.Stanford.EDU (William Koenig Lloyd)
Subject: Re: Cannondale Delta V question
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 92 01:54:46 GMT

In article <1992Nov18.090938.16092@leland.Stanford.EDU> tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen) writes:
>In article <27583@oasys.dt.navy.mil> mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Mackintosh) writes:
>>In rec.bicycles.tech, vvkmj@sven.lerc.nasa.gov (Keith Jackson) writes:
>>>build it up.  The guys at the shop don't know what to do with the
>>>little pulley wheel just above where the brakes will go.
>>
>>Take it off and use a regular cable cable stop in the back.  The front
>>may be a little trickier.  If you do want to set it up with the "Force
>>40" braking, you'll need a piece from Cannondale that clamps the end
>>of the wire from one cantilever (over the pulley) to the end of the
>>housing that goes toward the other cantilever...forget that, you'll
>>have to find one of these to see how its done.
>
>i've got a 'dale with the force 40 braking system described.
>one of these days, i'm going to switch it back to the regular
>system.  the problem is that the force 40 system, combined
>with the deore 2-finger brakes, requires a lot of cable travel.
>i find that the deore levers don't pull enough cable.  so i end
>up with brakes that ride uncomfortably close to the rim (meaning
>that if the wheel goes slightly out of true the brakes will rub)
>and levers that go awfully close to the bottom under hard braking.
>the advantage is that the brakes are powerful.  i can stop hard
>using my little fingers.  if you're using diacompe SS-7 or SS-5
>levers it might be worthwhile to use the force 40 system (these
>levers pull more cable), but otherwise i'd just skip it.
>as david said, you'll need the little metal piece (one for each
>set of cantilevers) which shouldn't cost much.  you can try it
>out, and if you don't like it, chuck it.  my advice is to skip it.
>the only drawback is that you will have to find a cable hanger for
>the front brake, which is why i haven't done anything yet.
>
>-teddy

If you're looking to get more cable travel with some SS-5's or SS-7's,
you're looking in the wrong place.  In fact, as I recall, Shimano brake
levers (not the ones attached to the rapidfires--they have less), have
among the most cable travel of any of 'em.  A shop I know of measured them
at 23mm.  Servo-wave levers have 19, Ritcheys are 20, SS-7's are 19, and
SS-5's only have 15mm of cable travel.

Everyone around here sounds like they don't like the force-40 stuff at all.
I don't ride it, but I've ridden some bikes with it and was amazed at the
power that was achieved from XT brakes (which I think pretty much suck
without some kind of aid in the levers or other method).  I guess I'm just
a weenie, I've been spoiled by the awesome power of my IRD brakes.  I can
go down a 45-degree trail and lock up the FRONT wheel (not usually on 
purpose, mind you), with 1 finger.  Yes, really.

Bill

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: josh@Happy-Man.com (Joshua_Putnam)
Subject: Re: How to secure pump to frame?
Reply-To: Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com
Organization: Happy Man Corp., Vashon Island, WA 98070-7399
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 20:09:19 GMT

In article G2z@news.cso.uiuc.edu, tlt38517@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Terry Thiel) writes:
>My borthers new Colango (The $1200 one with Dura-Ace STI) has no pump peg.
>How do people secure pumps to their road bikes so they don't rattle?  I assumed
>people use those velcro thingies but wanted other ides since it seems like
>they would rattle.
>-Terry

Zefal makes a good plastic pump peg that has a plastic band
clamp.  It wraps around any size of tube I've seen on a
bike, and the plastic is soft enough that I wouldn't expect
it to mar any expensive paint jobs.  I use one of these pegs
plus an old leather toe strap to hold a Mt. Zefal on my
pegless Bianchi Grizzly mountain bike.  (I tried compact
pumps, but I'm too impatient.  Besides, have you ever tried
scaring off a dog with a pump the right size for a friendly
game of fetch?)  The peg works very well, but I added the
strap to keep the pump in place in heavy brush and on rocky
descents.
-- 
 Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com    Happy Man Corp.  206/463-9399 x102
 4410 SW Pt. Robinson Rd., Vashon Island, WA  98070-7399  fax x108
 We publish SOLID VALUE for the intelligent investor.  NextMail OK
Info free; sample $20: Send POSTAL addr: Solid-Value@happy-man.com
From: akkana@moab.wpd.sgi.com (Akkana Peck)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Cannondale Delta V question
Keywords: Force 40, Force 40-Plus
Date: 20 Nov 92 02:44:56 GMT
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc., Mountain View, CA
NNTP-Posting-Host: moab.wpd.sgi.com

In article <1992Nov16.221828.13566@eagle.lerc.nasa.gov> vvkmj@sven.lerc.nasa.gov (Keith Jackson) writes:
>build it up.  The guys at the shop don't know what to do with the
>little pulley wheel just above where the brakes will go.

If it looks like a pulley (brass colored), it's Force 40, which means
that it's a '92 frame -- they've upgraded to Force 40-plus on the '93
frames, and the Plus piece doesn't look anything like a pulley any more.

Force 40 and 40-Plus give similar braking performance (in terms of cable
travel vs. finger force), but Plus is easier to adjust (and looks cooler
:-).  If you're going to stick with the Force 40 rather than going back
to regular cantilevers, I recommend buying the kit to upgrade the pulleys
to the 40-Plus piece: it's part number ACOMA (the "comma" kit, because
the new components are shaped like a comma) and costs $7 to do both
wheels.  It's easy to install and includes a picture that'll show you
how to hook everything up (it even includes a new straddle cable).
Most Cannondale dealers will disclaim any knowledge of this upgrade kit
until you tell them the part number, then they'll condescend to look it
up and order it for you.

However, you can also just pull off the pulleys and set up the brakes
like a normal mountain bike (at the risk of having other Cannondale
owners think you less than cool :-).  I think of myself as having very
weak hands, but frankly I don't find the reduced braking effort of Force
40 to make much difference.  I currently have a front brake with a normal
DX straddle cable (no Force 40) and 40-Plus on the rear brake.

I tried to upgrade to 40-Plus, but since I swap my brakes -- right lever
controls front brake -- and couldn't find a way to get 40-Plus to deal
gracefully with having the cable enter from the other side, I gave up
after a while and bought a normal straddle cable.  Someone told me
after I downgraded that I might have gotten it to work by adjusting the
cantilever spring tension unevenly, but I find I'm just as happy with the
non-Force-40 front brake, so there's no motivation to try again.

	...Akkana	akkana@netcom.com
	(another happy Cannondale owner regardless of choice of brakes)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: EPLUS17@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu (Richard Engelbrecht-Wiggans)
Subject: Re: better cantelever braking
Organization: C.C.S.O.
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 02:38:34 GMT

In article <1992Nov16.235735.7640@u.washington.edu>
miolnir@stein.u.washington.edu (Scot Thorstad) writes:
 
>In article <1992Nov16.204659.16744@eng.umd.edu> gsurbeck@eng.umd.edu (Gregory D. Surbeck) writes:
>>Scott SE cantilever are supposed to be able to stop a single bike so
>>quickly that they can throw new riders.
>
>I'm a little confused, I have standard DX brakes and find all this
>talk about "braking power" strange.  I've never had a problem with
>locking up either tire (I haven't tried to lock the front on pavement)
>but even hanging off the back it's easy to lock the rear.  Are there
>other people like me who need better traction to use the brakes they
>have or do everyones tires stick like glue. If everybody sticks
>then what kind of tires do you use, I need some.
>scot
>
>
Put three adult riders on your bike and see what happens.  This
thread was started with respect to braking on a tandem.  I find
that the frictional loses between the brake lever and the rear
brake (about 7 feet back on my triplet) are so severe that I get
significantly less braking than on a single.  Multiply that by the
extra weight and the extra speed of a tandem, and you might see
why even the SE brakes mentioned above aren't enough on a tandem.
 
..Richard E+17
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: rjt@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (ross.j.thompson)
Subject: Re: Maillard Helico-matic hubs
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 17:23:05 GMT
Keywords: cassette hub genesis availability

I am relaying this post for the author who cannot post directly to
netnews yet.  The article is posted here in "as received" condition and
I take no responsibility for its content other than insuring that it
meets standard guidelines and group applicability.  The post is in
response to an earlier response I had made.

Ross Thompson
AT&T Bell Laboratories

From cbnewsl!att!att!zelator.in-berlin.de!h.zierke Sat Nov 14 11:48:57 1992
## Nachricht vom 12.11.92 weitergeleitet
## Ursprung : /UUCP/REC/BICYCLES
## Ersteller: H.ZIERKE@LINK-NJD.ZER


On 12.11.92, RJT%CBNEWSL.CB.ATT.COM@UUCP.ZER 
wrote about "Re: Maillard Helico-Matic Freewheels?":

RC> As the owner of a Helicomatic-equipped TREK from the mid-80s, I can also 
RC> attest to the lack of precise shifting although some of the problem may
RC> have been due to the Suntour Cyclone rear derailleur trying to span triple
RC> chainrings.  Apparently, the only thing this hub had going for it was the
RC> ease with which the freewheel cassette could be removed from the hub, 
RC> ostensibly to replace a broken spoke on the drive side during the course
RC> of a loaded tour (ie. no sag support). 

Ross,

Sachs-Maillard produced Helicomatic sprockets with new teeth for *index-
shifting*! And the Maillard-Spidel 700 Helicomatic with "normal" bearings
and labyrinth seal (produced in the first half of the eighties) was one of
the cheapest premium-quality-hubs ever produced. 
My last pricelist of Sachs Schweinfurt showing the sprockets was printed 
in May 1988. Sachs Schweinfurt had still some of them three years ago, but
I think the germans bought them all...  ;-)

They said they discontinued the system because no one asked for it. 
However, these RGS-sprockets shifted as good as Uniglide and lasted 
longer.



Ciao
Hajo

--
Hans-Joachim Zierke  ##  Tel.: +49-30 / 394 8445  ##  Fax: +49-30 / 394 8447
                   h.zierke@tbx.berlinet.in-berlin.de 

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: philg@zurich.ai.mit.edu (Philip Greenspun)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Cannondale MTB's (buy from LL Bean)
Date: 20 Nov 92 21:58:12
Organization: M.I.T. Artificial Intelligence Lab.
Reply-To: philg@martigny.ai.mit.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: zug.ai.mit.edu
In-reply-to: gsurbeck@eng.umd.edu's message of 17 Nov 92 20:56:48 GMT


In article <1992Nov17.205648.6888@eng.umd.edu> gsurbeck@eng.umd.edu (Gregory D. Surbeck) writes:

   When he took it
   back to the C'dale shop he bought it from they told him that taking
   the bike off-road was excessive abuse and they would not be
   responsible!  I don't like that statement, which I have heard from
   many bike stores.

That's why I bought my $625 from LL Bean for $575 (their
"Pathfinder").  The only thing that has broken was the seat, but they
sent me a new one no questions asked (they didn't even ask for the old
one back).

All bike manufacturers' warranties that I have seen are full of weasel
words.  They aren't even giving you the bare legal minimum in most
states, i.e. you'd be better off WITHOUT ANY WARRANTY AT ALL.  For
example, the implied warranty of merchantability, which you cannot
waive no matter what you sign in most states, says that a mtn bike has
to be good for mtn biking for some reasonable period of time (probably
a year is a safe bet).  Of course, bike companies and shops have
learned from car companies and dealers that one need not do what is
legal unless one is sued and ordered to do so by a judge.

If you don't like either 1) litigation, or 2) feeling like a chump,
buy from bike shops/companies that let you decide what is reasonable.
LL Bean is like this and I think Performance is also (at least their
written words are, I can't vouch for whether their followthrough is as
good as Bean's).

By the way, for those of you willing to drive to Maine, LL Bean sells
fancier name brand bikes in their stores that you can't buy in the
catalog, e.g. Haro.  The warranty is the same.


--

      -- Philip Greenspun

-------------------------------------------------------------
MIT Department of Electrical Engineering and Computer Science
545 Technology Square, Rm 433, Cambridge, MA 02139
(617) 253-8574
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: naru@eng.umd.edu (Naruhisa Takashima)
Subject: Re: chain pins
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 92 16:04:27 GMT
Organization: College of Engineering, Yniversity of Maryland, College Park, MD
Originator: naru@valkyrie.eng.umd.edu


In article <BxywM4.D1C@math.uwaterloo.ca>, arpepper@math.uwaterloo.ca (Adrian Pepper) writes:
>In article <1eekejINN9fm@master.cs.rose-hulman.edu> fleminpm@NeXTwork.Rose-Hulman.Edu (Paul M Fleming) writes:
>>
>>	The guy is for real.. I used to work at a bicycle shop and the  
>>Shimano chains do require new pins EVERYTIME.. It is possible to get away  
>>without a new one each time but it isn't recommended. The hyperglide  
>>system is pretty high tech stuff and the spacing of the chain and  
>>sprockets is very important. Therefore, to reduce the possibility of error  
>>Shimano made it factory procedure to replace the entire pin each time one  
>>is removed.
>>		Paul
>
>So, what wonderful advances bicycle technology has made.  Have we now
>traded cotter pins (anybody remember them?) for non-reusable chain
>pins?
>
>Adrian.
>arpepper@math.uwaterloo.ca

I find it amusing that so many people compalain about how things have 
gotten so complicated and how it was sooo much better before.

Personally, I'd much rather have Carbon or Ti frame w/ STI or Ergo 
equiped bike than 
the old tank that I used to ride when I was small.

I do wish the pins that 
Shimano sold were cheaper though (3 for $5 seems wee bit expensive.)

Naru

p.s. By the way, wasn't the reason American cars lost so much ground to the 
rest of the world during the '70s -'80 was because the companies stayed 
w/ old ideas and not improving its technologies.  

Was this post more appropriate in rec.bicycles.misc?
From: gustilo@pop-server.upenn.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Spokes Breaking on Rear MTB Wheel
Date: 23 Nov 92 03:18:38 GMT
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech
Organization: University of Pennsylvania

greetings,

I seem to have a recurring problem with spoke breakage. In the past two
months I have had to replace 4 spokes on the drive side of my back wheel.
The spokes break at the bend where they go into the hub and it looks like
metal fatigue to my non-metallurgically trained eye. (15 ga ss of unknown
make being replaced with 15 ga DTs, 32 hole XT hub, cross 3 lacing)

Is this going to continue until I end up replacing all the spokes on the
backwheel? Is there anything I can do to lessen the incidence of breakage?

I'm not a gonzo rider but the trails are covered with leaves and its a
little hard to avoid those rocks and stuff.

thanks in advance for any advice.

Standard Disclaimer:
  I am not responsible for comments that I make after 3:00 AM or after five
cups of coffee, whichever comes first.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech