From: kdm@Rational.COM (Kent Mitchell)
Subject: FAQ (for real this time)
Organization: Rational
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8]
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 17:44:09 GMT

Hi all, the FAQ got shredded when posted so Mike mailed it to me and I'm
going to post it.

Kent Mitchell
Rational


This is the official alt.bonsai FAQ.

I'll try to update the FAQ either weekly or as often as required based on
the info submitted. (In other words..I'll do it more often if required
and less often if nothing has changed). The FAQ will be posted every 
Monday for the first 4 to 6 weeks (unless it gets TOO big too fast) and 
then once a month, or when it get updated which ever comes first.

If there are error or typo's in this text, or if your name has been left 
off of the contributor list, please just drop me a note. I'm very much 
capable of making mistakes...I do promise to do my best to correct all 
errors found before the next release of the FAQ.

The bonsai Dictionary is still under construction. I have some of the 
most frequently used japanese terms (according to my limited sources), 
and I have the latin botanical terms (again within the limits of my 
knowlege/sources...) If you have additions or corrections, please e-mail 
them to me at the address below.

++++++++++++++++++++++++ CALL FOR TRANSLATORS +++++++++++++++++++++++++
If you like Bonsai, and you can translate this FAQ into another
language, please do so...You can either e-mail me the translation,
or post it directly yourself..I'll add it to the FAQ as TRANSLATIONS
come in (if they come in...)
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
                                            Mike Bartolone
                                        bartlone@gemed.ge.com
                                    (first alt.bonsai FAQ compiler)


Section 1 Table of contents
    Section 2 --  What is Bonsai?
    Section 3 --  Bonsai dictionary.
    Section 4 --  Frequently Asked Questions!
    Section 5 --  Addresses (Clubs, Associations, Magazines)
    Section 6 --  Reading material (Books and Magazines)
    Section 7 --  Junipers
    Section C --  Contributors...


Section 2 What is Bonsai?

This was at one time, the most commonly ask of all FAQ's, but, since
the Karate Kid was first shown, the frequency with which this question gets 
asked has decreased a little bit..Bonsai is literally a plant, (usually a 
tree or shrub) grown in a tray, or dish. 
The first plants grown in pots were in Egypt about 4000 years ago, mostly
for practical reasons, mobility, and convenience. The Greeks, Babylonians,
Persians, and Hindus copied the technique. The Chinese were the first to 
plant tree's in pots for aesthetic purposes about 200 AD. It then moved to 
Japan with the monks that also brought Buddhism in the 6th and 7th
centuries. This data is supported in essence by a scroll from Japan's 
Kamakura period (1192-1333), in a scroll describing life in the Heian 
period (794-1191).*  Bonsai as we now know it was perfected in Japan.
   The original bonsai tree's were usually collected, dwarfed by nature. 
Today, however, it is probably better to allow such specimens to stay
where they are. Many locations collecting them in the wild is against
the law. In others the chance of finding a suitable specimin is almost
zero.
   Over the years, techniques have evolved which allow the grower change 
the height and direction of growth, and in some cases to dwarf the foliage 
as well as the plant. Today, bonsai is an art form, a living sculpture. 
There are certain classic or traditional forms that can be found and 
followed, but the basic rule of thumb for personal bonsai is 'If you like 
the way it looks, its a good bonsai'.

*(From The Masters Book of Bonsai)

Section 3 -- Dictionary of bonsai terms

   Bonsai styles ---
   
     chokkan   Formal Upright
           The chokkan bonsai typically has a single, upright trunk
           that tapers toward the top, branches are symetrically balanced
           and well spaced.
           
     moyogi   Informal Upright
           Moyogi bonsai have a single trunk like the chokkan, but the
           trunk is usually curved. The trunk generally tapers toward
           the top like the formal upright.
           
     kabudachi (multiple trunks)
       sokan   Twin Trunk
       sankan  Triple Trunk
       gokan   5 trunk
           Two (or 3 or 5) trunks growing from the same root. Usually
           one trunk is the largest and is refered to as the parent.
           Good conformation is based on the esthetic balance of the
           smaller 'children' to the parent in trunk thickness.
           
     shakan   Slanting
           A single trunk, similar to the formal and informal upright,
           but cultivated with the trunk growing at an angle other than
           90 degree's to the ground. Brances are again balanced and
           well spaced.
           
     netsuranari   sinuous
           sinuous bonsai have multiple trees growing from a single
           sinuous root. 5 needle pine are most commonly used for
           this style.
           
     neagari   exposed root
           Roots growing up out of the ground, suspending the trunk
           in the air characterize this rare style of bonsai.
           
     ikada   raft
           Similar in effect to netsuranari, but typically with one
           straight horizontal root joining the tree's. This is usually
           accomplished by burying a larger tree horizontally and then
           training each branch as a separate tree.
           
     fukinagashi   Windswept
           Similar to the slanting style, but all of the branches are
           swept in one direction as though it were growing in a place
           with a strong constant prevailing wind.
           
     kengai   cascade
           An unusual form where the trunk and branches arch and
           'cascasde' over the edge of the pot. Usually planted in a 
           deep pot to give balance to its unusual form.
           
     bunjingi   literati
           upright or informally upright trunk bare of branches
           expect at the top, characterized by a tasteful simple 
           elegance.
           
     hokidachi    broom
           broom style tree's have an upright trunk, with branches
           evenly fanned out. IT resembles an old fashioned broom
           standing on its handle.
           
     yose-ue   Group
           A group planting of distinct separate tree's, representing
           a grove, or forest.
           
     ishitsuki   rock-grown
           There are two basic types of rock grown bonsai, root
           grasping the rock, where the roots do enter the soil the
           rock is protruding from, and on, or in the rock, where
           the tree is planted in a pocket of earth attached to
           the rock, or in a hollow in the rock.
           
   Growing techniques

       misho       grown from seed
       yamadori    collecting plants from nature
       sashiki     grown from cuttings
       tsugiki     grafting  
       toriki      layering and dividing
       
  Other Japanese bonsai terms --
  
       nebari      the rootball of a bonsai


   Latin bontanical terms -- (Note: This section is complete within the
                               limits of my documentation)
   
       abbreviatus -- short
       acuminatus -- long tapering point
       acutifolius -- with sharp leaves
       adpressus -- pressed together, pressed against
       adscendens -- going up
       aerius -- of the air, as air-roots
       affinus -- related, with an affinity
       africanus -- from Africa
       alatus -- winged
       albescens -- pale, whitish
       albidus, albus -- white
       albiflorus -- with white flowers
       alpinus -- of the alpines, mountains
       alternus -- alternating, usually means NOT directly opposite
       altus -- altitude, tall
       amabilis -- pretty
       amphibius -- adaptable either to land or water
       angulosus -- angled, turning every which way
       angustifolius -- with narrow leaves (seldom used, more commonly 
                        nerifolius)
       aquaticus -- of the water, water-loving
       arborescens -- growing like a tree, woody like a tree
       arenatius -- found in sandy places
       argenteus, argentus -- silvery
       aristatus -- bearded
       arrectus -- straight up, erect
       ascendens -- going up, ascending
       asiaticus, asiatus -- from asia
       atlanticus -- Atlantic
       atropurpureus, atropurpurea -- purple, sometimes dark red
       atrosanguineus -- dark blood-red
       atroviolaceus -- dark violet
       atrovirens -- dark green
       augustus -- important in size or appearance, imposing
       aurantiacus -- orange-red
       aureus -- golden
       azureus -- ligth blue, azure
       babylonicus -- Babylonian, from Babylon
       balticus -- from the Baltic
       bengalinis -- from Bengal
       biennis -- biennial
       biflorus -- two flowered
       bifolius -- two leaved
       brefolius -- with short leaves
       brevis -- short
       brevisimus -- very short
       brillian -- brilliant
       brittanicus -- from Britain
       brunneus -- brown
       bulgarius -- Bulgarian
       buxifolius -- with leaves like a boxwood, box-leaved
       calamifolius -- with reed-like leaves
       californicus -- from California
       campestris -- found in fields
       candelabrum -- having the form of a candelabra
       candicans -- white or frosty looking
       catitatus -- headed
       carneus -- flesh-colored
       cerefolius -- with waxy leaves
       coccineus -- bright red
       coloratus -- colored
       columnaris -- having the form of a column
       concolor -- similar coloring
       conglomeratus -- all close together
       contortus -- twisted, contorted
       cordatus -- heart-shaped
       cornutus, cornuta -- horned
       crassifolius -- with thick leaves
       crenatus -- serrated
       cuspidatus -- sharp tooth, or hard point
       deformis -- deformed
       deliciosus, deliciosa -- delicious
       dendroideus -- like a tree
       densatus -- dense
       densifolius -- with dense leaves
       densiflorus -- with dense flowers
       dentatus -- toothed, with a series of points
       dipterus -- two-winged
       discolor -- of two or several colors
       dissectus -- deeply cut leaves, an in fern-leaved maple
       divaricatus -- spreading
       domesticus -- domesticated
       edulis -- can be eaten
       elatus, elata -- tall
       elegans -- elegant, graceful
       elongatus -- long
       erectus -- upright
       excelsius, excelsus -- tall
       exoticus, exotica -- from another country
       fastigiatus -- having nearly vertical, close-together branches
       ferox -- fierce, thorny
       flaccidus -- soft, limp
       flammeus -- flame-colored
       flexilis -- bendable, flexible
       florepleno -- with double flowers
       florebundus -- with many flowers
       foetidus -- bad-smelling, having a fetid odor
       fragrans -- sweet-smelling, fragrant
       fragrantissimus very sweet-smelling
       frutescens -- bushy, shrubby, twiggy
       gallicus -- from Gaul (France), may also pertain to a rooster
       giganticus -- large, gigantic
       glaucus -- with a frost-like bloom, as on a grape
       gloriosus, gloriosa -- great, superb
       gracilis -- slender, graceful, lissome
       grandifolius -- with large leaves
       gutatus -- freckled
       haemanthus -- bright red flowers
       humilis -- dwarf, low
       ilicifolius holly-like leaves
       japonicus -- from Japan
       lancifolius -- with lance-like leaves
       latifolius -- with broad leaves
       leptolepis -- with thin scales
       leptophyllus -- with thin leaves
       leucodermis -- with white skin
       lobularuis -- lobed
       luteus -- yellow
       macranthus -- with large flowers
       nacro -- big, long, large
       maximus -- the largest
       medius -- medium
       megalophyllus -- with very large leaves
       microphyllus -- with very small leaves
       minimus -- very small
       mollis -- hairy, fuzzy
       myriophyllus -- with many leaves
       nanus, nana -- dwarf, small
       nerifolius, nerifolia, -- with narrow leaves
       niger -- black
       nodulosa -- with small nodes
       nudifolia -- deciduous, naked of leaves
       oblongatus -- oblong, oval
       officinalis -- medicinal
       parviflorus -- with small flowers
       parvifolia -- with small leaves
       patens -- spreading
       pinous line-like
       podocarpus -- with stalked fruits
       polydactylus -- with many fingers
       porphyreus -- purple
       praecox -- very early
       procumbens -- procumbent, lying down
       pumilus -- dwarf, small
       pygmaeus -- pygmy
       pyramidalis -- pyramidal
       repens -- creeping, low
       reticulatus -- with a netted pattern
       robustus -- strong, robust
       roseaflorus -- with rose-like flowers
       rotundifolius -- with round leaves
       scandens -- climbing
       semperflorens -- everblooming
       sempervirens -- always green
       serpens -- creeping
       serpyllifolius -- with thyme-like leaves
       serratus -- with a saw tooth edge
       stolenifera -- with runners that root and send up 
                      another plant
       strictus -- erect
       sylvaticus -- of the forest
       tenuifolius -- with slender leaves
       tomentosus -- very wooly
       tridens -- with three teeth or points
       variegatus -- veriegated
       verrucosus -- warty
       virens -- green
       virginianus -- of Virginia, first defined in Virginia
       viridis -- green
       vulgaris -- common, vulgar, ordinary
       xanthinus -- yellow
       zonalis -- banded



Section 4 -- Frequently Asked Questions!

Q: How do I start?

    Opinion 1)  Get as many books as you can. Read them..look at the 
        pictures. Look in your local phone book and see if there is a 
        bonsai club in your area. Talk to local Nursery operators and 
        see if they know of any clubs in your area. Select a tree that 
        has some of the basic design that you'd like to have in your 
        final tree, and buy it..use the info you got from reading, and 
        from the local club/nursery owner (if he knows what bonsai is!).


    Opinion 2)    Indoors: Remember that immature plants should not be 
        treated as bonsai, they must be treated as the houseplants they 
        are. Give them plenty of soil to grow in and don't use to little
        fertilizer, or they won't develop branches and leaves when you
        cut them and the trunk won't grow in thickness.


Q: As a beginner, should I purchase a mature or partially trained bonsai, 
or start from scratch?

    Opinion 1) I think you should start from scratch. Your first 
        attempts may never be 'show quality', but you can make a few 
        mistakes without damaging a tree you paid for. It may take a bit 
        longer to arrive at something that looks the way you want it to, 
        but bonsai is (usually) not one of those instant gratification 
        hobbies. If you get the proper book and some guidance, starting 
        with some in-expensive nursery stock may yield some 'instant 
        bonsai' which allows the beginner to learn, while allowing you to 
        own something that looks like a 'real bonsai'. Stay away from 
        tree's labeled 'Bonsai' in MOST discount stores. Numerous people 
        have seen some discount chains with dead or dying seedlings 
        planted in shallow trays with a solid mat of pebbles glued down 
        over the soil. The trees had not been watered, and even if they 
        were, the water couldn't penetrate the ground-cover. They were 
        marked $10.00...

    Opinion 2)    The question should really be: Should I start from 
    scratch with a small seedling, or with a plant that is larger. 
    Neither will give you "instant bonsai". The larger will have a thicker 
    trunk from the beginning, and thus will look "almost like a tree" 
    sooner. A younger plant gives you larger freedom in which shape to 
    train it into. You get to use different methods on them, the larger 
    lends itself to cutting down, the smaller to cutting away to encourage 
    other growth.

   (And by all means, if you see a shaped tree you really want,
   the price is right, it looks healthy and undamaged, and is of
   a species you know is hardy or of a sort you already have, and
   therefore know you can take care of -- it _is_ OK to buy it.)



Q: Is there a list of which plants that are accepted as 'good' to start a 
    bonsai? (Latin names, and if to be in- or out-doors please)

Ficus benjamina         Indoors
   Fast grower, hardy. Easy to get the leaves small. Suitable for
   many different shapes.

Ficus retusa            Indoors
   Similar to benjamina, leaves grow in a different pattern.

Ficus pumila            Indoors
   If you want a cascade, this is the way to go. Cut often to
   prevent it from going long and thin. May die if the roots dry
   out totally.

Schefflera arboricola   Indoors
Schefflera actinophylla Indoors
   Can be cut down enormously, buy a 50cm plant and cut it down
   to 10cm! Must be shaped completely without wiring. Takes
   correct treatment to get the leaves small.

Crassula argentea       Indoors
Portulacaria afra       Indoors
   Succulents with small leaves, branch easily.

Malpighia cocciera      Indoors
   Slow grower.

Murraya paniculata      Indoors
   Slow grower. Gets beautiful structured bark when still young.

Myrthus communis        cool winters
   Must be kept at around +10C in the winter.



Q: I have trouble finding the 'right' pots for bonsai.
   (Either unavailable or too expensive) Are there alternatives?

Q: I assume that the time & # of times to prune the trees/roots
   vary with the latitude. Anyone have data on that?

Q: What are some good tools for beginners to purchase?  They're 
   rather expensive if you get true bonsai tools.  It would be a shame 
   to buy a $45 trimmer and then realize that it's only used during odd 
   prodedures or only for specific types of trees/styles.


Section 5 -- Addresses ... Clubs, Associations, publishers...

Clubs and Associations
-------------------------
Bonsai Institute of California
PO Box 78211
Los Angeles  CA  90016 USA

Bonsai - Zentrum Muenster
Wolfgang Klemend
Weselerstr. 57
D-4400 Muenster
Germany
(note: Club AND Nursery)

Svenska Bonsais{llskapet
c/o Margit K}berger 
Kornbodsg. 27
S-724 81 V{ster}s
Sweden

Milwaukee Bonsai Society
P.O. Box 174
Greendale Wi 53129  USA


Section 6 -- Reading material (Books and Magazines)

Books
-------------------------
BONSAI
The Complete Guide to Art & Technique
by Paul Lesniewicz
published by Blandford Press

Indoor Bonsai
by Paul Lesniewicz
published by Blandford Press

The Creative Art of Bonsai
by Isabelle & Remy Samson
Ward Lock Ltd  ISBN 0 7063 7024 4

_BONSAI with American Trees_
by Masakuni Kawasumi
published by Kodansha International Ltd
ISBN 0-87011-246-5

"Bonsai Techniques" by John Yoshio Naka
Published for the Bonsai Institute of California,

The Complete Book of Bonsai
by Harry Tomlinson

The Complete BONSAI Handbook
By Darlene Dunton
Stein and Day Publishers
ISBN 0-8128-6008-X

Four Seasons of Bonsai
by Kyuzo Murata

The Beginner's Guide to American Bonsai
By Jerald P. Stowell
ISBN 0-87011-326-7

The Masters' Book of Bonsai
Compiled by Directors of The Japan Bonsai Association
published by Kodansha International Ltd
ISBN 0-87011-453-0

Magazines
-------------------------
Bonsai Today
Stone Latern Publishing Co
P. O. Box 816
Sudbury MA 01776
Subscriptions are $42 a year. 6 issues a year.
english translation of a Japanese magazine. Very detailed!

"Bonsai" -- Journal of the American Bonsai Society
 Quarterly, ca. 30 pages
Annual membership fee: individual $18, student $11
Information: ABS Executive Sec.  Box 358,  Keene  NH  03431

"Bonsai Clubs International"
6/Year, 60 pages
Annual Dues $25
Magazine office: 
PO Box 1326  
Ft. Walton Beach,  FL  32549 USA  
Phone (904 862-4619)

International Bonsai
pub. by
The international Bonsai Arboreum
412 Pinnacle Road
Rochester, New York 14623
Phone (716) 334-2595


Plants and gardens, Brooklyn Bot. Gard. Record. -- Handbook
     Vol. 9 No. 22 Dwarfed Potted Trees, The Bonsai of Japan
     Vol. 22 No. 2 Bonsai: Special Techniques
     Vol. 32 No. 2 Bonsai for Indoors

Brooklyn Botanical Gardens
1000 Washington Ave
Brooklyn, NY 11225

Suppliers
-------------------------

The Bonsai Farm
13827 Hwy. 87 So.
Adkins, Texas  78101 USA
Tel:  (512) 649-2109
Owners: Edith & Leonard Sorge
(Note: Good variety plants for indoor and outdoor bonsai
  tools, and pots)


Greenwood Gardens
Ollerton Road
Arnold
Nottingham
ENGLAND.
NG5 8PR                 Tel: 0602 205757


Bonsai Nursery
966 S. Saratoge-Sunnyvale Road
San Jose, CA.
408-252-1458

    Very nice selection of finished bonsai ranging from $40.00 on up, 
    clay pots, tools, and starter plants.  The starter plants are 
    in 3" and 4" containers and priced between $3.00-$5.00.  This is 
    a very good way to begin a new bonsai.  They also carry a good 
    selection of plants in 1 gallon containers that can be "bonsai-ed".  
    Friendly and knowledgeable service.

Ken's Bonsai Gardens
471 Page Mill Rd.
Palo Alto, Ca
415-325-4840

    "Ken" is a master.  I was very humbled by visiting his gardens
    which are located in his small front yard.  Very high-quality 
    finished bonsai.  Prices ranged from $20.00 up into the thousands. 
    No supplies to speak of...just a few pots sitting on the front
    porch.  

Ruukkupuu
PL 32
36601  PALKANE
FINLAND
tel. (936) 2842
 
    Finnish bonsai-equipment supplier (has been for about 20 years now). 
    It has quite large selection of pots and other equipment, may have
    indoor bonsai's soon...


=========================================================
Note: The following may or may not still exist. I have not
contacted them, and the listing I got them from is at least 8 years
old! If you live close enough to verify any of these sources, or
find any of them to have moved or gone out of business, please let me
know so we can update the FAQ!

Hillier Nurseries (Winchester) LTD,*
20/26 Lamb's Conduit Street
London England
WCIN 3LE
(Note: Very complete and worthwhile catalogue)

Armstrong Nurseries
Box 473
Ontario CA  91764 USA
(Note: Young starter plants, dwarf citrus)

Crane Products
8432 Birch Bark Dr.
Pico Rovera CA 94111  USA
(Note: Handcrafted bonsai tools, starter plants)

Montebello Nursery         (May be out of business!!)
1325 Fremont
Los Altos CA 94022  USA
(Note: Bonsai and young pre-bonsai)

Hortica Gardens
Don and Pauline Croxton
Box 308
Placerville CA 95667  USA
(Note: Bonsai stock..extensive selection)
Phone (916) 622-7089

House of Bonsai
800 Trail Blvd., No.,
Naples FL 33940  USA
(Note: Mature bonsai, young starter stock, pots and accessories)

============================================================



ABS-BCI Book Service 
C/O Vernon Weeks   Dept "B"
3740 Louisiana Ave. N.  
New Hope  MN  55427 USA
Telephone: 612 537-6984


ABS-BCI list...
Title (Author)

 1. The Art of Indoor Bonsai (Ainsworth)
 2. Bonsai (Koreshoff)
 3. Bonsai, The Art & Technique (Young)
 4. The Bonsai Book (Barton)
 5. Bonsai Book of Practical Facts (Meyer)
 6. Bonsai Design: Deciduous & Conifer Trees (Adams)
 7. Bonsai Masterclass (Chan)
 8. Bonsai Techniques I (Naka)
 9. Bonsai Techniques II (Naka)
10. Bonsai: The Complete Guide (Lesniewicz)
11. Bonsai: Trees & Shrubs (Perry)
12. Brooklyn Botanical Gardens Handbooks:
 a) Bonsai for Indoors
 b) Bonsai: Special Techniques
 c) Bonsai: Dwarf Potted Trees
 d) Japanese Gardens
13. Chinese Bonsai (Lesniewicz)
14. Chinese Penjing (Hu)
15. Classic Bonsai of Japan (Nippon Bonsai Assoc.)
16. The Complete Book of Bonsai (Tomlinson)
17. The Creative Art of Bonsai (Samson)
18. Four Seasons of Bonsai (Murata)
19. Hagamos Bonsai (Botero) [Spanish Text]
20. Indoor Bonsai (Ainsowrth)
21. Indoor Bonsai (Lesniewicz)
22. Indoor Bonsai: A Beginner's Guide (Pike)
23. The Japanese Art of Miniature Trees & Landscapes 
                                 (Yoshimura & Halford)
24. The Japanese Art of Stone Appreciation (Covello & Yoshimura)
25. Japanese Maples (Vertrees)
26. Penjing: The Chinese Art of Miniature Gardens (Hu)
27. Popular Bonsai (Pike)
28. Successful Bonsai Growing (Adams)
29. Outstanding American Bonsai (Clark)
30. The World of Bonsai (Lesniewicz)
31. Bonsai: The Art of Training Dwarf Potted Trees 
                                 (Brook. Bot. Gard.) [Video]

Prices ($US)

     List     Member   Postage

 1.  24.95    20.00    2.00
 2.  44.95    36.00    2.75
 3.  45.00    36.00    2.50
 4.  29.95    25.00    2.00
 5.  17.95    17.95    Paid
 6.  24.95    20.00    2.00
 7.  19.95    16.00    2.00
 8.  25.00    25.00    Paid
 9.  35.00    35.00    Paid
10.  27.95    22.50    2.25
11.  14.00    12.00    2.00
12.
 a)   6.95     5.75    1.50 first, 
 b)   6.95     5.75    0.50 each
 c)   5.95     4.75    additional
 d)   T CHAR B5.95     4.75
13.  29.95    25.00    2.00
14.  39.95    32.00    2.50
15. 100.00    75.00    Paid
16.  29.95    25.00    2.00
17.  17.95    14.50    2.00
18.  24.95    20.00    2.00
19.  29.95    22.00    2.00
20.   8.95     7.25    1.50
21.  14.95    12.00    1.50
22.  14.95    12.00    1.75
23.  19.95    16.00    2.50
24.  23.95    16.00    2.00
25.  40.00    32.00    2.50
26.  39.95    32.00    2.50
27.  29.95    25.00    2.00
28.   8.95     7.25    1.50
29.  29.95    29.95    Paid
30.  75.00    60.00    Paid
31.  14.95    12.00    1.50

Section 7    JUNIPERS

The Juniper is one of the most recognised bonsai specimens and is 
frequently the first bonsai purchase many new commers make. Junipers
do make very fine bonsai, and although they are not 'difficult' bonsai
to manage, they are frequently 'mistreated' and therefore do not last
long. We have gotten LOTS of questions about brown junipers', and what
'first aid' you might give them. Well, we hate to break the news to you,
but, if you have a brown juniper, it is probably dead. Don't get too
depressed, even the best have lost a tree..or 5..or 10. The most common
mistakes made with junipers are over watering, AND lack of sufficient
sun light. Junipers are outdoor tree's, so if you have no way to
grow them outside, find some nice person that knows about bonsai, and
can give it a good home. If you want to try a juniper anyway, make
sure it gets plenty of sun, don't over water it, and make sure it gets
plenty of air.

Section C -- Contributors

This section is a listing of the contributirs to this list. I want to
include this info so we all know who to thank..and who we can talk to.
Here goes...

    Name            netmail, Snail Mail etc            Contribution
    ----            -----------------------          -------------
 Andy Hart           andy@cmptrc.lonestar.org      creator of alt.bonsai
                     CompuTrac, Inc.               dictionary contributions
                     222 Municipal Drive
                     Richardson, TX  75080  USA
 
 Mike Bartolone      bartlone@gemed.ge.com         1st FAQ compiler
                     3459 S. 110th St
                     West Allis WI 53227  USA

 Hud Nordin          rkn@Apple.COM                 ABS-BCI Book service list
                                                    ...
                                                    
 Bruce Barnett       barnett@crd.ge.com             Bonsai Today address..
 
 Reji Martin         varmart@atlas.cs.upei.ca       More books, and 
                     Prince Edward Island, Canada   suppliers
 
 Linda Brigman       Linda.Brigman@bbs.oit.unc.edu  More books
                     lgb@rcc.rti.org (internet)
                     lgb@rti         (bitnet)

 Kreg Webb           kwebb@sedona.intel.com         Book and Mag addresses
                     Intel, Corp. C3-36
                     5000 W. Chandler Blvd
                     Chandler, AZ  85226
                     
 Klaus Zeppenfeld    klaus@informatik.Uni-Osnabrueck.DE  Club listing
                     klaus@vidar.informatik.uni-osnabrueck.de
                     Breslauerstr. 23
                     D-4760 Werl
                     Germany

 Jonas Flygare       flax@mizar.docs.uu.se            FAQ Questions
                     Va\"ktargatan 32 F:621
                     S-754 22 Uppsala
                     Sweden

 Marlon Cole         cczcole@unicorn.nott.ac.uk or    Supplier address
                     cczcole@uk.ac.nott.unicorn
                     Cripps Computing Centre        
                     University of Nottingham
                     Nottingham
                     ENGLAND
                     NG7 2RD

Urban Fredriksson    urf@icl.se                       FAQ opinions
         (n.g.u.fredriksson.swe2001@oasis.icl.co.uk)  club listing
         
Janet Jakstys        UUCP:{ames,pyramid!amdahl,hplabs}!ntmtv!janet
Northern Telecom     INTERNET:ntmtv!janet@ames.arc.nasa.gov
Mtn. View, CA.                                        supplier listing

John & Jame Amoroso  ja@gnv.ifas.ufl.edu              additional history
Gainesville, FL      ja@ifasgnv

Joel W. Collins, III  jwcoll01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu  FAQ question
(University of Louisville)
1443 S. 2nd St., Apt. 2
Louisville,  KY  40208  USA

Bill Lindsay         BILLL@HARVARDA.HARVARD.EDU        Brooklyn Bot. Garden
                                                       address
This is the official alt.bonsai FAQ.

I'll try to update the FAQ either weekly or as often as required based on
the info submitted. (In other words..I'll do it more often if required
and less often if nothing has changed). The FAQ will be posted every 
Monday for the first 4 to 6 weeks (unless it gets TOO big too fast) and 
then once a month, or when it get updated which ever comes first.

If there are error or typo's in this text, or if your name has been left 
off of the contributor list, please just drop me a note. I'm very much 
capable of making mistakes...I do promise to do my best to correct all 
errors found before the next release of the FAQ.

The bonsai Dictionary is still under construction. I have some of the 
most frequently used japanese terms (according to my limited sources), 
and I have the latin botanical terms (again within the limits of my 
knowlege/sources...) If you have additions or corrections, please e-mail 
them to me at the address below.

++++++++++++++++++++++++ CALL FOR TRANSLATORS +++++++++++++++++++++++++
If you like Bonsai, and you can translate this FAQ into another
language, please do so...You can either e-mail me the translation,
or post it directly yourself..I'll add it to the FAQ as TRANSLATIONS
come in (if they come in...)
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
                                            Mike Bartolone
                                        bartlone@gemed.ge.com
                                    (first alt.bonsai FAQ compiler)


Section 1 Table of contents
    Section 2 --  What is Bonsai?
    Section 3 --  Bonsai dictionary.
    Section 4 --  Frequently Asked Questions!
    Section 5 --  Addresses (Clubs, Associations, Magazines)
    Section 6 --  Reading material (Books and Magazines)
    Section 7 --  Junipers
    Section C --  Contributors...


Section 2 What is Bonsai?

This was at one time, the most commonly ask of all FAQ's, but, since
the Karate Kid was first shown, the frequency with which this question gets 
asked has decreased a little bit..Bonsai is literally a plant, (usually a 
tree or shrub) grown in a tray, or dish. 
The first plants grown in pots were in Egypt about 4000 years ago, mostly
for practical reasons, mobility, and convenience. The Greeks, Babylonians,
Persians, and Hindus copied the technique. The Chinese were the first to 
plant tree's in pots for aesthetic purposes about 200 AD. It then moved to 
Japan with the monks that also brought Buddhism in the 6th and 7th
centuries. This data is supported in essence by a scroll from Japan's 
Kamakura period (1192-1333), in a scroll describing life in the Heian 
period (794-1191).*  Bonsai as we now know it was perfected in Japan.
   The original bonsai tree's were usually collected, dwarfed by nature. 
Today, however, it is probably better to allow such specimens to stay
where they are. Many locations collecting them in the wild is against
the law. In others the chance of finding a suitable specimin is almost
zero.
   Over the years, techniques have evolved which allow the grower change 
the height and direction of growth, and in some cases to dwarf the foliage 
as well as the plant. Today, bonsai is an art form, a living sculpture. 
There are certain classic or traditional forms that can be found and 
followed, but the basic rule of thumb for personal bonsai is 'If you like 
the way it looks, its a good bonsai'.

*(From The Masters Book of Bonsai)

Section 3 -- Dictionary of bonsai terms

   Bonsai styles ---
   
     chokkan   Formal Upright
           The chokkan bonsai typically has a single, upright trunk
           that tapers toward the top, branches are symetrically balanced
           and well spaced.
           
     moyogi   Informal Upright
           Moyogi bonsai have a single trunk like the chokkan, but the
           trunk is usually curved. The trunk generally tapers toward
           the top like the formal upright.
           
     kabudachi (multiple trunks)
       sokan   Twin Trunk
       sankan  Triple Trunk
       gokan   5 trunk
           Two (or 3 or 5) trunks growing from the same root. Usually
           one trunk is the largest and is refered to as the parent.
           Good conformation is based on the esthetic balance of the
           smaller 'children' to the parent in trunk thickness.
           
     shakan   Slanting
           A single trunk, similar to the formal and informal upright,
           but cultivated with the trunk growing at an angle other than
           90 degree's to the ground. Brances are again balanced and
           well spaced.
           
     netsuranari   sinuous
           sinuous bonsai have multiple trees growing from a single
           sinuous root. 5 needle pine are most commonly used for
           this style.
           
     neagari   exposed root
           Roots growing up out of the ground, suspending the trunk
           in the air characterize this rare style of bonsai.
           
     ikada   raft
           Similar in effect to netsuranari, but typically with one
           straight horizontal root joining the tree's. This is usually
           accomplished by burying a larger tree horizontally and then
           training each branch as a separate tree.
           
     fukinagashi   Windswept
           Similar to the slanting style, but all of the branches are
           swept in one direction as though it were growing in a place
           with a strong constant prevailing wind.
           
     kengai   cascade
           An unusual form where the trunk and branches arch and
           'cascasde' over the edge of the pot. Usually planted in a 
           deep pot to give balance to its unusual form.
           
     bunjingi   literati
           upright or informally upright trunk bare of branches
           expect at the top, characterized by a tasteful simple 
           elegance.
           
     hokidachi    broom
           broom style tree's have an upright trunk, with branches
           evenly fanned out. IT resembles an old fashioned broom
           standing on its handle.
           
     yose-ue   Group
           A group planting of distinct separate tree's, representing
           a grove, or forest.
           
     ishitsuki   rock-grown
           There are two basic types of rock grown bonsai, root
           grasping the rock, where the roots do enter the soil the
           rock is protruding from, and on, or in the rock, where
           the tree is planted in a pocket of earth attached to
           the rock, or in a hollow in the rock.
           
   Growing techniques

       misho       grown from seed
       yamadori    collecting plants from nature
       sashiki     grown from cuttings
       tsugiki     grafting  
       toriki      layering and dividing
       
  Other Japanese bonsai terms --
  
       nebari      the rootball of a bonsai


   Latin bontanical terms -- (Note: This section is complete within the
                               limits of my documentation)
   
       abbreviatus -- short
       acuminatus -- long tapering point
       acutifolius -- with sharp leaves
       adpressus -- pressed together, pressed against
       adscendens -- going up
       aerius -- of the air, as air-roots
       affinus -- related, with an affinity
       africanus -- from Africa
       alatus -- winged
       albescens -- pale, whitish
       albidus, albus -- white
       albiflorus -- with white flowers
       alpinus -- of the alpines, mountains
       alternus -- alternating, usually means NOT directly opposite
       altus -- altitude, tall
       amabilis -- pretty
       amphibius -- adaptable either to land or water
       angulosus -- angled, turning every which way
       angustifolius -- with narrow leaves (seldom used, more commonly 
                        nerifolius)
       aquaticus -- of the water, water-loving
       arborescens -- growing like a tree, woody like a tree
       arenatius -- found in sandy places
       argenteus, argentus -- silvery
       aristatus -- bearded
       arrectus -- straight up, erect
       ascendens -- going up, ascending
       asiaticus, asiatus -- from asia
       atlanticus -- Atlantic
       atropurpureus, atropurpurea -- purple, sometimes dark red
       atrosanguineus -- dark blood-red
       atroviolaceus -- dark violet
       atrovirens -- dark green
       augustus -- important in size or appearance, imposing
       aurantiacus -- orange-red
       aureus -- golden
       azureus -- ligth blue, azure
       babylonicus -- Babylonian, from Babylon
       balticus -- from the Baltic
       bengalinis -- from Bengal
       biennis -- biennial
       biflorus -- two flowered
       bifolius -- two leaved
       brefolius -- with short leaves
       brevis -- short
       brevisimus -- very short
       brillian -- brilliant
       brittanicus -- from Britain
       brunneus -- brown
       bulgarius -- Bulgarian
       buxifolius -- with leaves like a boxwood, box-leaved
       calamifolius -- with reed-like leaves
       californicus -- from California
       campestris -- found in fields
       candelabrum -- having the form of a candelabra
       candicans -- white or frosty looking
       catitatus -- headed
       carneus -- flesh-colored
       cerefolius -- with waxy leaves
       coccineus -- bright red
       coloratus -- colored
       columnaris -- having the form of a column
       concolor -- similar coloring
       conglomeratus -- all close together
       contortus -- twisted, contorted
       cordatus -- heart-shaped
       cornutus, cornuta -- horned
       crassifolius -- with thick leaves
       crenatus -- serrated
       cuspidatus -- sharp tooth, or hard point
       deformis -- deformed
       deliciosus, deliciosa -- delicious
       dendroideus -- like a tree
       densatus -- dense
       densifolius -- with dense leaves
       densiflorus -- with dense flowers
       dentatus -- toothed, with a series of points
       dipterus -- two-winged
       discolor -- of two or several colors
       dissectus -- deeply cut leaves, an in fern-leaved maple
       divaricatus -- spreading
       domesticus -- domesticated
       edulis -- can be eaten
       elatus, elata -- tall
       elegans -- elegant, graceful
       elongatus -- long
       erectus -- upright
       excelsius, excelsus -- tall
       exoticus, exotica -- from another country
       fastigiatus -- having nearly vertical, close-together branches
       ferox -- fierce, thorny
       flaccidus -- soft, limp
       flammeus -- flame-colored
       flexilis -- bendable, flexible
       florepleno -- with double flowers
       florebundus -- with many flowers
       foetidus -- bad-smelling, having a fetid odor
       fragrans -- sweet-smelling, fragrant
       fragrantissimus very sweet-smelling
       frutescens -- bushy, shrubby, twiggy
       gallicus -- from Gaul (France), may also pertain to a rooster
       giganticus -- large, gigantic
       glaucus -- with a frost-like bloom, as on a grape
       gloriosus, gloriosa -- great, superb
       gracilis -- slender, graceful, lissome
       grandifolius -- with large leaves
       gutatus -- freckled
       haemanthus -- bright red flowers
       humilis -- dwarf, low
       ilicifolius holly-like leaves
       japonicus -- from Japan
       lancifolius -- with lance-like leaves
       latifolius -- with broad leaves
       leptolepis -- with thin scales
       leptophyllus -- with thin leaves
       leucodermis -- with white skin
       lobularuis -- lobed
       luteus -- yellow
       macranthus -- with large flowers
       nacro -- big, long, large
       maximus -- the largest
       medius -- medium
       megalophyllus -- with very large leaves
       microphyllus -- with very small leaves
       minimus -- very small
       mollis -- hairy, fuzzy
       myriophyllus -- with many leaves
       nanus, nana -- dwarf, small
       nerifolius, nerifolia, -- with narrow leaves
       niger -- black
       nodulosa -- with small nodes
       nudifolia -- deciduous, naked of leaves
       oblongatus -- oblong, oval
       officinalis -- medicinal
       parviflorus -- with small flowers
       parvifolia -- with small leaves
       patens -- spreading
       pinous line-like
       podocarpus -- with stalked fruits
       polydactylus -- with many fingers
       porphyreus -- purple
       praecox -- very early
       procumbens -- procumbent, lying down
       pumilus -- dwarf, small
       pygmaeus -- pygmy
       pyramidalis -- pyramidal
       repens -- creeping, low
       reticulatus -- with a netted pattern
       robustus -- strong, robust
       roseaflorus -- with rose-like flowers
       rotundifolius -- with round leaves
       scandens -- climbing
       semperflorens -- everblooming
       sempervirens -- always green
       serpens -- creeping
       serpyllifolius -- with thyme-like leaves
       serratus -- with a saw tooth edge
       stolenifera -- with runners that root and send up 
                      another plant
       strictus -- erect
       sylvaticus -- of the forest
       tenuifolius -- with slender leaves
       tomentosus -- very wooly
       tridens -- with three teeth or points
       variegatus -- veriegated
       verrucosus -- warty
       virens -- green
       virginianus -- of Virginia, first defined in Virginia
       viridis -- green
       vulgaris -- common, vulgar, ordinary
       xanthinus -- yellow
       zonalis -- banded



Section 4 -- Frequently Asked Questions!

Q: How do I start?

    Opinion 1)  Get as many books as you can. Read them..look at the 
        pictures. Look in your local phone book and see if there is a 
        bonsai club in your area. Talk to local Nursery operators and 
        see if they know of any clubs in your area. Select a tree that 
        has some of the basic design that you'd like to have in your 
        final tree, and buy it..use the info you got from reading, and 
        from the local club/nursery owner (if he knows what bonsai is!).


    Opinion 2)    Indoors: Remember that immature plants should not be 
        treated as bonsai, they must be treated as the houseplants they 
        are. Give them plenty of soil to grow in and don't use to little
        fertilizer, or they won't develop branches and leaves when you
        cut them and the trunk won't grow in thickness.


Q: As a beginner, should I purchase a mature or partially trained bonsai, 
or start from scratch?

    Opinion 1) I think you should start from scratch. Your first 
        attempts may never be 'show quality', but you can make a few 
        mistakes without damaging a tree you paid for. It may take a bit 
        longer to arrive at something that looks the way you want it to, 
        but bonsai is (usually) not one of those instant gratification 
        hobbies. If you get the proper book and some guidance, starting 
        with some in-expensive nursery stock may yield some 'instant 
        bonsai' which allows the beginner to learn, while allowing you to 
        own something that looks like a 'real bonsai'. Stay away from 
        tree's labeled 'Bonsai' in MOST discount stores. Numerous people 
        have seen some discount chains with dead or dying seedlings 
        planted in shallow trays with a solid mat of pebbles glued down 
        over the soil. The trees had not been watered, and even if they 
        were, the water couldn't penetrate the ground-cover. They were 
        marked $10.00...

    Opinion 2)    The question should really be: Should I start from 
    scratch with a small seedling, or with a plant that is larger. 
    Neither will give you "instant bonsai". The larger will have a thicker 
    trunk from the beginning, and thus will look "almost like a tree" 
    sooner. A younger plant gives you larger freedom in which shape to 
    train it into. You get to use different methods on them, the larger 
    lends itself to cutting down, the smaller to cutting away to encourage 
    other growth.

   (And by all means, if you see a shaped tree you really want,
   the price is right, it looks healthy and undamaged, and is of
   a species you know is hardy or of a sort you already have, and
   therefore know you can take care of -- it _is_ OK to buy it.)



Q: Is there a list of which plants that are accepted as 'good' to start a 
    bonsai? (Latin names, and if to be in- or out-doors please)

Ficus benjamina         Indoors
   Fast grower, hardy. Easy to get the leaves small. Suitable for
   many different shapes.

Ficus retusa            Indoors
   Similar to benjamina, leaves grow in a different pattern.

Ficus pumila            Indoors
   If you want a cascade, this is the way to go. Cut often to
   prevent it from going long and thin. May die if the roots dry
   out totally.

Schefflera arboricola   Indoors
Schefflera actinophylla Indoors
   Can be cut down enormously, buy a 50cm plant and cut it down
   to 10cm! Must be shaped completely without wiring. Takes
   correct treatment to get the leaves small.

Crassula argentea       Indoors
Portulacaria afra       Indoors
   Succulents with small leaves, branch easily.

Malpighia cocciera      Indoors
   Slow grower.

Murraya paniculata      Indoors
   Slow grower. Gets beautiful structured bark when still young.

Myrthus communis        cool winters
   Must be kept at around +10C in the winter.



Q: I have trouble finding the 'right' pots for bonsai.
   (Either unavailable or too expensive) Are there alternatives?

Q: I assume that the time & # of times to prune the trees/roots
   vary with the latitude. Anyone have data on that?

Q: What are some good tools for beginners to purchase?  They're 
   rather expensive if you get true bonsai tools.  It would be a shame 
   to buy a $45 trimmer and then realize that it's only used during odd 
   prodedures or only for specific types of trees/styles.


Section 5 -- Addresses ... Clubs, Associations, publishers...

Clubs and Associations
-------------------------
Bonsai Institute of California
PO Box 78211
Los Angeles  CA  90016 USA

Bonsai - Zentrum Muenster
Wolfgang Klemend
Weselerstr. 57
D-4400 Muenster
Germany
(note: Club AND Nursery)

Svenska Bonsais{llskapet
c/o Margit K}berger 
Kornbodsg. 27
S-724 81 V{ster}s
Sweden

Milwaukee Bonsai Society
P.O. Box 174
Greendale Wi 53129  USA


Section 6 -- Reading material (Books and Magazines)

Books
-------------------------
BONSAI
The Complete Guide to Art & Technique
by Paul Lesniewicz
published by Blandford Press

Indoor Bonsai
by Paul Lesniewicz
published by Blandford Press

The Creative Art of Bonsai
by Isabelle & Remy Samson
Ward Lock Ltd  ISBN 0 7063 7024 4

_BONSAI with American Trees_
by Masakuni Kawasumi
published by Kodansha International Ltd
ISBN 0-87011-246-5

"Bonsai Techniques" by John Yoshio Naka
Published for the Bonsai Institute of California,

The Complete Book of Bonsai
by Harry Tomlinson

The Complete BONSAI Handbook
By Darlene Dunton
Stein and Day Publishers
ISBN 0-8128-6008-X

Four Seasons of Bonsai
by Kyuzo Murata

The Beginner's Guide to American Bonsai
By Jerald P. Stowell
ISBN 0-87011-326-7

The Masters' Book of Bonsai
Compiled by Directors of The Japan Bonsai Association
published by Kodansha International Ltd
ISBN 0-87011-453-0

Magazines
-------------------------
Bonsai Today
Stone Latern Publishing Co
P. O. Box 816
Sudbury MA 01776
Subscriptions are $42 a year. 6 issues a year.
english translation of a Japanese magazine. Very detailed!

"Bonsai" -- Journal of the American Bonsai Society
 Quarterly, ca. 30 pages
Annual membership fee: individual $18, student $11
Information: ABS Executive Sec.  Box 358,  Keene  NH  03431

"Bonsai Clubs International"
6/Year, 60 pages
Annual Dues $25
Magazine office: 
PO Box 1326  
Ft. Walton Beach,  FL  32549 USA  
Phone (904 862-4619)

International Bonsai
pub. by
The international Bonsai Arboreum
412 Pinnacle Road
Rochester, New York 14623
Phone (716) 334-2595


Plants and gardens, Brooklyn Bot. Gard. Record. -- Handbook
     Vol. 9 No. 22 Dwarfed Potted Trees, The Bonsai of Japan
     Vol. 22 No. 2 Bonsai: Special Techniques
     Vol. 32 No. 2 Bonsai for Indoors

Brooklyn Botanical Gardens
1000 Washington Ave
Brooklyn, NY 11225

Suppliers
-------------------------

The Bonsai Farm
13827 Hwy. 87 So.
Adkins, Texas  78101 USA
Tel:  (512) 649-2109
Owners: Edith & Leonard Sorge
(Note: Good variety plants for indoor and outdoor bonsai
  tools, and pots)


Greenwood Gardens
Ollerton Road
Arnold
Nottingham
ENGLAND.
NG5 8PR                 Tel: 0602 205757


Bonsai Nursery
966 S. Saratoge-Sunnyvale Road
San Jose, CA.
408-252-1458

    Very nice selection of finished bonsai ranging from $40.00 on up, 
    clay pots, tools, and starter plants.  The starter plants are 
    in 3" and 4" containers and priced between $3.00-$5.00.  This is 
    a very good way to begin a new bonsai.  They also carry a good 
    selection of plants in 1 gallon containers that can be "bonsai-ed".  
    Friendly and knowledgeable service.

Ken's Bonsai Gardens
471 Page Mill Rd.
Palo Alto, Ca
415-325-4840

    "Ken" is a master.  I was very humbled by visiting his gardens
    which are located in his small front yard.  Very high-quality 
    finished bonsai.  Prices ranged from $20.00 up into the thousands. 
    No supplies to speak of...just a few pots sitting on the front
    porch.  

Ruukkupuu
PL 32
36601  PALKANE
FINLAND
tel. (936) 2842
 
    Finnish bonsai-equipment supplier (has been for about 20 years now). 
    It has quite large selection of pots and other equipment, may have
    indoor bonsai's soon...


=========================================================
Note: The following may or may not still exist. I have not
contacted them, and the listing I got them from is at least 8 years
old! If you live close enough to verify any of these sources, or
find any of them to have moved or gone out of business, please let me
know so we can update the FAQ!

Hillier Nurseries (Winchester) LTD,*
20/26 Lamb's Conduit Street
London England
WCIN 3LE
(Note: Very complete and worthwhile catalogue)

Armstrong Nurseries
Box 473
Ontario CA  91764 USA
(Note: Young starter plants, dwarf citrus)

Crane Products
8432 Birch Bark Dr.
Pico Rovera CA 94111  USA
(Note: Handcrafted bonsai tools, starter plants)

Montebello Nursery         (May be out of business!!)
1325 Fremont
Los Altos CA 94022  USA
(Note: Bonsai and young pre-bonsai)

Hortica Gardens
Don and Pauline Croxton
Box 308
Placerville CA 95667  USA
(Note: Bonsai stock..extensive selection)
Phone (916) 622-7089

House of Bonsai
800 Trail Blvd., No.,
Naples FL 33940  USA
(Note: Mature bonsai, young starter stock, pots and accessories)

============================================================



ABS-BCI Book Service 
C/O Vernon Weeks   Dept "B"
3740 Louisiana Ave. N.  
New Hope  MN  55427 USA
Telephone: 612 537-6984


ABS-BCI list...
Title (Author)

 1. The Art of Indoor Bonsai (Ainsworth)
 2. Bonsai (Koreshoff)
 3. Bonsai, The Art & Technique (Young)
 4. The Bonsai Book (Barton)
 5. Bonsai Book of Practical Facts (Meyer)
 6. Bonsai Design: Deciduous & Conifer Trees (Adams)
 7. Bonsai Masterclass (Chan)
 8. Bonsai Techniques I (Naka)
 9. Bonsai Techniques II (Naka)
10. Bonsai: The Complete Guide (Lesniewicz)
11. Bonsai: Trees & Shrubs (Perry)
12. Brooklyn Botanical Gardens Handbooks:
 a) Bonsai for Indoors
 b) Bonsai: Special Techniques
 c) Bonsai: Dwarf Potted Trees
 d) Japanese Gardens
13. Chinese Bonsai (Lesniewicz)
14. Chinese Penjing (Hu)
15. Classic Bonsai of Japan (Nippon Bonsai Assoc.)
16. The Complete Book of Bonsai (Tomlinson)
17. The Creative Art of Bonsai (Samson)
18. Four Seasons of Bonsai (Murata)
19. Hagamos Bonsai (Botero) [Spanish Text]
20. Indoor Bonsai (Ainsowrth)
21. Indoor Bonsai (Lesniewicz)
22. Indoor Bonsai: A Beginner's Guide (Pike)
23. The Japanese Art of Miniature Trees & Landscapes 
                                 (Yoshimura & Halford)
24. The Japanese Art of Stone Appreciation (Covello & Yoshimura)
25. Japanese Maples (Vertrees)
26. Penjing: The Chinese Art of Miniature Gardens (Hu)
27. Popular Bonsai (Pike)
28. Successful Bonsai Growing (Adams)
29. Outstanding American Bonsai (Clark)
30. The World of Bonsai (Lesniewicz)
31. Bonsai: The Art of Training Dwarf Potted Trees 
                                 (Brook. Bot. Gard.) [Video]

Prices ($US)

     List     Member   Postage

 1.  24.95    20.00    2.00
 2.  44.95    36.00    2.75
 3.  45.00    36.00    2.50
 4.  29.95    25.00    2.00
 5.  17.95    17.95    Paid
 6.  24.95    20.00    2.00
 7.  19.95    16.00    2.00
 8.  25.00    25.00    Paid
 9.  35.00    35.00    Paid
10.  27.95    22.50    2.25
11.  14.00    12.00    2.00
12.
 a)   6.95     5.75    1.50 first, 
 b)   6.95     5.75    0.50 each
 c)   5.95     4.75    additional
 d)   T CHAR B5.95     4.75
13.  29.95    25.00    2.00
14.  39.95    32.00    2.50
15. 100.00    75.00    Paid
16.  29.95    25.00    2.00
17.  17.95    14.50    2.00
18.  24.95    20.00    2.00
19.  29.95    22.00    2.00
20.   8.95     7.25    1.50
21.  14.95    12.00    1.50
22.  14.95    12.00    1.75
23.  19.95    16.00    2.50
24.  23.95    16.00    2.00
25.  40.00    32.00    2.50
26.  39.95    32.00    2.50
27.  29.95    25.00    2.00
28.   8.95     7.25    1.50
29.  29.95    29.95    Paid
30.  75.00    60.00    Paid
31.  14.95    12.00    1.50

Section 7    JUNIPERS

The Juniper is one of the most recognised bonsai specimens and is 
frequently the first bonsai purchase many new commers make. Junipers
do make very fine bonsai, and although they are not 'difficult' bonsai
to manage, they are frequently 'mistreated' and therefore do not last
long. We have gotten LOTS of questions about brown junipers', and what
'first aid' you might give them. Well, we hate to break the news to you,
but, if you have a brown juniper, it is probably dead. Don't get too
depressed, even the best have lost a tree..or 5..or 10. The most common
mistakes made with junipers are over watering, AND lack of sufficient
sun light. Junipers are outdoor tree's, so if you have no way to
grow them outside, find some nice person that knows about bonsai, and
can give it a good home. If you want to try a juniper anyway, make
sure it gets plenty of sun, don't over water it, and make sure it gets
plenty of air.

Section C -- Contributors

This section is a listing of the contributirs to this list. I want to
include this info so we all know who to thank..and who we can talk to.
Here goes...

    Name            netmail, Snail Mail etc            Contribution
    ----            -----------------------          -------------
 Andy Hart           andy@cmptrc.lonestar.org      creator of alt.bonsai
                     CompuTrac, Inc.               dictionary contributions
                     222 Municipal Drive
                     Richardson, TX  75080  USA
 
 Mike Bartolone      bartlone@gemed.ge.com         1st FAQ compiler
                     3459 S. 110th St
                     West Allis WI 53227  USA

 Hud Nordin          rkn@Apple.COM                 ABS-BCI Book service list
                                                    ...
                                                    
 Bruce Barnett       barnett@crd.ge.com             Bonsai Today address..
 
 Reji Martin         varmart@atlas.cs.upei.ca       More books, and 
                     Prince Edward Island, Canada   suppliers
 
 Linda Brigman       Linda.Brigman@bbs.oit.unc.edu  More books
                     lgb@rcc.rti.org (internet)
                     lgb@rti         (bitnet)

 Kreg Webb           kwebb@sedona.intel.com         Book and Mag addresses
                     Intel, Corp. C3-36
                     5000 W. Chandler Blvd
                     Chandler, AZ  85226
                     
 Klaus Zeppenfeld    klaus@informatik.Uni-Osnabrueck.DE  Club listing
                     klaus@vidar.informatik.uni-osnabrueck.de
                     Breslauerstr. 23
                     D-4760 Werl
                     Germany

 Jonas Flygare       flax@mizar.docs.uu.se            FAQ Questions
                     Va\"ktargatan 32 F:621
                     S-754 22 Uppsala
                     Sweden

 Marlon Cole         cczcole@unicorn.nott.ac.uk or    Supplier address
                     cczcole@uk.ac.nott.unicorn
                     Cripps Computing Centre        
                     University of Nottingham
                     Nottingham
                     ENGLAND
                     NG7 2RD

Urban Fredriksson    urf@icl.se                       FAQ opinions
         (n.g.u.fredriksson.swe2001@oasis.icl.co.uk)  club listing
         
Janet Jakstys        UUCP:{ames,pyramid!amdahl,hplabs}!ntmtv!janet
Northern Telecom     INTERNET:ntmtv!janet@ames.arc.nasa.gov
Mtn. View, CA.                                        supplier listing

John & Jame Amoroso  ja@gnv.ifas.ufl.edu              additional history
Gainesville, FL      ja@ifasgnv

Joel W. Collins, III  jwcoll01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu  FAQ question
(University of Louisville)
1443 S. 2nd St., Apt. 2
Louisville,  KY  40208  USA

Bill Lindsay         BILLL@HARVARDA.HARVARD.EDU        Brooklyn Bot. Garden
                                                       address