HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: bobh@fuji.hwr.arizona.edu (Bob Harrington)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: rappel accidents
Date: 26 Jan 93 03:04:39 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Arizona -- Tucson, AZ

In article <1993Jan24.213422.14936@sol.UVic.CA> randrew@teton.UVic.CA (Rex  Andrew) writes:
>I'm looking for a bit of (probably meaningless) trivia. Somewhere sometime
>I read something to the effect that a lot of famous climbers have died in
>rappel accidents (implying, I guess, that, having ascended a hard route, they
>became inattentive on the descent, or that more generally, being veterens 
>of hard bold ascents, they became careless in something as straightforward (!)
>as setting rappels anchors, etc.)
>
>Now clearly I don't want arguments on what a "famous climber" is! At the
>time this was written, I suspect the author was referring to climbers a
>few decades ago who honed their skills on local mountains and then went 
>off to do big things in the Alps, Himalayas, etc.
>
>I don't remember where I came across this assertion, and, notwithstanding 
>the annual list of misfortunes in Accidents in N.A.Mountaineering, I can 
>only think of Tom Patey as a possible example. Can anybody suggest others?
>

Jim Madsen, an accomplished Yosemite climber of the sixties, was killed 
when he rapped of the end of his rappell line on an El Cap rescue. He had
rappelled down from the top of the Captain to check on the progress of an
over due party on the Dihedral Wall. He was hanging at the end of the rope,
with a knot in the rope jammed against his brake system, trying to communicate
with the party on the route, when the knot got sucked through the brake, and 
he free fell to the deck. Ironically, the climbers on the route were just
slow, and in no need of a rescue.

>Rex

Bob Harrington
Indentured Research Assistant, Tenured Graduated Student
Hydrology and Water Resources
University of Arizona
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: spearing@champlain.UVic.CA (Ian  Spearing)
Subject: Re: Gripmaster Finger Exerciser
Reply-To: spearing@champlain.UVic.CA
Organization: University of Victoria, Victoria, BC, Canada
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 93 00:06:45 GMT


In article 2783@eagle.ukc.ac.uk, amlf@ukc.ac.uk (A.M.L.Fowler) writes:
>
>Finger exerciser
>----------------
>
>I've seen an advert in an American magazine for a finger exerciser
>called a "GRIPMASTER".  It's a squeezy thing you hold in your hand
>but it has separate springs for each finger.  
>
>I think it's made by the "IMC Products Corps", who are based in
>New York, but I want to know how to get one in the UK.
>
>Can anyone help?
>
>Thanks,
>Aliy

A different approach, perhaps?

A friend of mine picked up a finger exerciser of your description at a
music shop (in Canada) as a device for guitarists.  Perhaps if climbing
stores are not fruitful, a local music shop would have what you are
looking for.

Ian Spearing
spearing@me.uvic.ca

Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: stephen@physics2 (Stephen Ross )
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Climbing in Munich
Date: 28 Jan 1993 18:16:13 GMT
Organization: /etc/organization
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: physics2.berkeley.edu


Greetings.

I am  considering a two year move to Munich, Germany, and would 
like to know about the rock there. I assume that the alpinism is
excellent, but are there any walls? Is the rock good quality? Any
sport routes?

I'd also appreciate any other comments that you might have about the
city and the area in general. My german isn't terrible, but it
certainly couldn't be called good. How much of a problem is this?

Thank you!

Xref: sparky rec.climbing:5359 rec.backcountry:10448
From: schuman@kaweah.esd.sgi.com (Aaron Schuman)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing,rec.backcountry
Subject: Re: What is sport? (was: A-word)
Date: 23 Jan 93 00:36:20 GMT
Organization: Silicon Graphics 415-390-1901

Eugene>  I have on occasion consulted to the DoD:
Eugene>  the 7th Infantry Divison (Light), the USMC,
Eugene>  and one agency which is best not discussed.


I will reveal Eugene's dirty secret:

The agency which he won't discuss is not a DoD agency at all;
it is the Bureau of Land Management!  Eugene advised them on
how to remove a 13000+ foot mountain that was located on top
of some choice coal deposits.  Fortunately, there were so
many misspellings on the Environmental Impact Statement he
drafted, that the coal never saw the light of day.

Eugene admitted to me that he did it out of spite because the
mountain in question was one rock he knew he could never climb.
From: dave@badger.uk.sun.com (David Herring - Sun UK - Tech Support)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: Climbing trip to somewhere warm?
Date: 12 Jan 1993 16:17:14 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems
Distribution: world
Reply-To: dave@badger.uk.sun.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: badger.uk.sun.com


I'm panning a trip to Spain for a 
weeks climbing in March. Do you 
need to hire a car to get from 
Benidorm to the crags ? 

What about camping out bt the crags.

Any guide books you want to sell ?

---
David Herring - UKAC.
From: AS.MSW@forsythe.stanford.edu (Marc Whitney)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: CRAGMONT BOLTING
Date: 27 Jan 1993 12:32:32 -0800
Organization: Stanford University
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: morrow.stanford.edu

In article <1k6kvc$ar9@agate.berkeley.edu>,
elmar@ocf.berkeley.edu (Elmar Stefke) writes:
>I recently checked out Cragmont (Berkeley) after a period of not climbing
>there, and to my horror found that the easy climbs on the East side had
>bolted toprope anchors.  Does anybody know who is responsible for this
>absolute bullshit???  These bolts are more then an eyesore, they are comletely
>UNNECESSARY!  People have been toproping and bouldering/soloing at Cragmont
>since the 1930's without resorting to the use of bolts (except for early aid
>routes).  The East side routes have multiple possibilities for natural anchors
>(slinging trees, exposed roots, and rocks) in addition to providing a crack
>for pro on the left side of the face.  I can't imagine why there should be
>bolts.  They are more convenient (speak faster), but does that make them
>in anyway necessary?  Did somebody live out their first practice bolt
>fantasy?  Are they safer (not with all the other anchors available)?
>Elmar Stefke
>
This must be pretty recent.  I didn't see any last fall when I was
there.  Since I've been going there off and on for about 10 years I
guess I qualify as a "local"?  If so, I hereby vote for removal -
PROVIDED - removal is accomplished competantly, i.e., pulled not
chopped, minimized scarring and appropriately colored fill.


Marc Whitney
as.msw@forsythe.stanford.edu
From: FQV@psuvm.psu.edu (jim bowers)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Petrogrip discount for netlanders
Date: 27 Jan 93 01:00:37 GMT
Organization: Penn State University

The Petrogrip discount for netlanders is now officially 10% off the price of
all holds, the building affordable climbing wall book, and the video.  E-mail
me for a catalogue.


                   Jim Bowers
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: spearing@champlain.UVic.CA (Ian  Spearing)
Subject: Re: Gripmaster Finger Exerciser
Reply-To: spearing@champlain.UVic.CA
Organization: University of Victoria, Victoria, BC, Canada
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 93 00:14:48 GMT


In article 2783@eagle.ukc.ac.uk, amlf@ukc.ac.uk (A.M.L.Fowler) writes:
>
>Finger exerciser
>----------------
>
>I've seen an advert in an American magazine for a finger exerciser
>called a "GRIPMASTER".  It's a squeezy thing you hold in your hand
>but it has separate springs for each finger.  
>
>I think it's made by the "IMC Products Corps", who are based in
>New York, but I want to know how to get one in the UK.
>
>Can anyone help?
>
>Thanks,
>Aliy

(If this appears twice, sorry, hardware problems.)

Perhaps a different approach.

A friend of mine purchased an exerciser of the above description at a
music shop (in Toronto, Canada) as a device for guitarists.  If
climbing shops are not fruitful, perhaps a local music shop would be.

Ian Spearing
spearing@me.uvic.ca
From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andrew Michael Woodward)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: Gripmaster Finger Exerciser
Date: 27 Jan 93 08:55:15 GMT
Organization: University of Wales, Aberystwyth

In article <1993Jan22.101857.10090@iscsvax.uni.edu> jacobson5821@iscsvax.uni.edu writes:
>Concerning the Gripmaster.  Does anyone out there think it has helped them
>become less fatiqued on a climb?  I have thought about getting one, but doubt
>that there's enough resistance to it.  I would like to hear replies.
>                                Paul Jacobson
>P.S.  I believe that they are made with different tensions.  With this in mind,
>the "fretmaster" would more than likely be quite abit easier (to increase
>speed) than one built for rock climbers.  


An article on training devices in Climbing a feew months back reckoned that 
finger exercisers were good for helping injuries to heal, but useless for
strength training.
Xref: sparky rec.climbing:5411 rec.backcountry:10541
From: moo@king.eng.umd.edu (Deac Moo of the UGC)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing,rec.backcountry
Subject: Re: Altimeter watches
Date: 26 Jan 1993 17:48:03 GMT
Organization: Computer Aided Design Lab, U. of Maryland College Park
Reply-To: moo@king.eng.umd.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: croft.eng.umd.edu

In article <23287@venera.isi.edu>, jdeifik@isi.edu (Jeff Deifik) writes:

>I went to the comsumer electronics show, and heard something about a
>compass watch from casio.

Wait two years, and you can get the GPS watch.
	                *** MOO@CADLAB.ENG.UMD.EDU***
Heaven: Playing craps with HotBabes(tm) screaming "I want you to come for MEEE."
From: pggreen@juliet.caltech.edu (Green, Peter G.)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: Smelly Shoes
Date: 21 Jan 1993 09:24 PST
Organization: California Institute of Technology
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: juliet.caltech.edu
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    

In article <YfLOEXO00iV204gVpb@andrew.cmu.edu>, Mark Jakubowycz <mj00+@andrew.cmu.edu> writes...
> 
>Last month there was a posing about how to keep climbing shoes from
>smelling. I don't recall seing an answer. Anyone have any ideas? I wear
>climbing shoes with no socks, and this certainly does not help.
I think I started the subject with a request for suggestions.  I
received several but have not tried them (thanks to a good ski
season getting started.)

Among the recommendations I recall:
wear socks.
wash in tomato juice
wash in milk
foot powder (tried with marginal success only)
flaming burial at sea (too far from the ocean unfortunately.)

I have very sweaty feet and don't wear socks and they are very old
shoes so I may ultimately have to replace them.  Whenweever we are
in  a store my girlfriend urges me to buy newe ones.

Peter Green
pgg@chemsys.caltech.edu
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: rfw@tawny.cs.nott.ac.uk (Rupert F Weare)
Subject: Climbing walls in Pittsburgh?
Organization: Communications Research Group
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 93 17:10:41 GMT


	I have a friend who plans to visit Pittsburgh for a month sometime around March who
was wondering if there are any good climbing walls there. Any ideas?

	Thanks in advance,
			Rupert.

	reply to: rfw@cs.nottingham.ac.uk

Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: farquhar@wotangate.sc.ti.com (Colin Farquhar)
Subject: Re: Gripmaster Finger Exerciser
Reply-To: farquhar@wotangate.sc.ti.com
Organization: Texas Instruments Inc.
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 18:51:27 GMT

Have you tried going to a good outdoor shop?  I've seen these exercisers 
in The Outdoor Shop, Stony Stratford nr Milton Keynes, Nevis Sport in Glasgow,
and various other shops around the country.  Check around, use the yellow
pages, let your fingers do the walking.
From: craigc@hotcity.COM (Craig Cutright)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: Altimeter watches 
Date: 22 Jan 93 09:16:02 PST
Organization: BBS

In article <C124GJ.I3z@da_vinci.it.uswc.uswest.com>,
rayman@lookout.it.uswc.uswest.com (Raymond Goure) writes:
>
>I need a synopsis of the discussion that went on here regarding the
>casio Altimeter watches. I'll be doing some high mountain trail
>runs so I'll be using the watch as Chrono or stop watch at times.
>I'll need the watch models if the info is available. thanks for your
>time.
>
>
>ok
>
>
>ray goure
If you are looking to buy a altimeter watch you might want to consider calling
Avocet in Palo Alto, CA.  They have been promising the release of a watch that
will put all others to shame (60,000 ft altimeter reading?  If its true you
would need to ride the space shuttle to get it up that high).  I have been
holding off from buying an altimeter watch in anticipation of this product. 
Does anyone else know the skinny on this watch?
 
Craig Cutright
CraigC@Hotcity.com
From: AS.MSW@forsythe.stanford.edu (Marc Whitney)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: Is Climbing An Individual Sport?
Date: 25 Jan 1993 16:22:51 -0800
Organization: Stanford University
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: morrow.stanford.edu

In article <1993Jan25.224958.29453@nas.nasa.gov>,
eugene@wilbur.nas.nasa.gov (Eugene N. Miya) writes:
>do just what EVER they choose.  Who gives a care and who says so for a
>piece of rock?  After all in the words of some: bolts are better than
>placed pro [remember: I'm the devil in this one, I will assume you have
>seen this in earlier posts or published articles], of in the case of
>free climbing blank faces and performing chipping and bolting: These blank
>faces are just diamonds in the rough.  After all "a National Park is a People's
>Park" there are too many regulations, laws and restrictions in the world,
>and your losing your right to add protection in the form of pins or bolts
>is just government intrusion in private lives.  If a guy does a free-solo,
>first ascent, then does that mean all subsequent ascents have to be
>free-solo first ascents?  A slew of Fairview dome routes at high standard
>are this way.  Does the Devil care to bolt these say in the name of safety?
>Not on your life.
>
>Nothing personal, it's just that the regular devils' have posted any of this
>yet.
>
Now whenever anyone slams in a bolt they can just say: "The Eugene
made me do it!"  :-)
From: claest@cyklop.nada.kth.se (Claes Thornberg)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Rockclimbing in Estonia?
Date: 26 Jan 93 14:59:31 GMT
Organization: Royal Institute of Technology, Stockholm, Sweden


In August I will be in Estonia (Paernu and Tallin) for at least two
weeks and I would like to know if there are any rockclimbing areas
near these towns.  Information on how to get in touch with / contact
local climbers would also be helpful.

Thanks,

Claes Thornberg
claest@nada.kth.se
From: 47.366::opland@fishery.honeywell.com
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Glue on holds...
Date: 22 Jan 1993 10:25:14 -0600
Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu

> From: tovey@mullauna.cs.mu.OZ.AU (Gadget)
> Subject: Re: Glue on holds...

>> 47.366::opland@fishery.honeywell.com writes:

>>> From: mc7z+@andrew.cmu.edu (Michael Minhall Chang)
>>> Subject: Glue on holds.
>>> Organization: Freshman, CIT general, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
>>>
>>> Anyone,
>>>
>>> I am interested in putting up artificial holds on a wall, but the only
>>> walls around are made from sandstone blocks.  Will pc-7 impregnate the
>>> sandstone or will it just pull it off?

>> This is a hard call to make. When we were gluing holds on concrete, we
>> sometimes lost holds when the actual concrete pulled away from the aggregate.

> On a nearby wall, holds are glued onto concrete. The wall is overhanging
> at about 30-35 degrees (very steep). The glue itself is very strong, but
> the surface of the concrete does pull away from time to time. As a result
> all of the holds are now bolted as well. The bolts aren't super tight,
> but at least they avoid a nasty fall when the glue/concrete breaks.
>
> gadget
> Matt Tovey

Our 200 ft. traverse wall never gets your feet over about 8 feet from the sandy
landing and we used the rock from the wash (dry streambed for you non-Arizonans)
for the holds (p.s. they made great holds and are easy on the hands). One thing
you have to look out for if you're planning on bolting your holds on is the
consideration of who's wall this is that you're planning on drilling into. We
figured that our holds could be cleaned off in a matter of hours if we got
nailed by the law. Since this was on a bridge overpass, we figured that the
city (owners of the bridge) would frown on us if we did permanant damage to
the bridge. Of course this only applies if they catch you in the act (if you're
just climbing on it, they can't very well prove that it was you that did the
drilling...). I guess you have to weight the risk and potential legal ramifications
if you get nailed by the law. From stories I've read and heard about, this can
vary widely from city to city... Some just tell you to stop and some (reference
a past copy of Climbing Magazine) throw the legal book at you.

If your wall is just for bouldering and the landings are good, I'd recommend
gluing on handholds (and I'm just talking about loose rock, not Metolius holds)
and being cautious about the landings. If you get nailed, you don't lose any
money except that which went for the glue.

G.
From: sinclair@cc.usu.edu (Bob Sinclair)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Oh Gross! Injury analysis
Date: 21 Jan 93 16:29:40 MDT
Organization: Utah State University

Regarding recent ice climbing mishap.....

This is probably more appropriate for sci.med or somewhere
similar, but those folks are not climbers so what the hell do they
know? :-)

With my right arm wrapped around my neck and my left arm
wrapped around my head, I was hit by a chunk of ice. The impact
appears to be at the top front of the deltoid muscle. There was
immediate swelling at that point and lotsa pain. The bicep showed
no damage and no pain. Also, the impact could not have hit the
bicep as that muscle was pointing down and protected from above
by the forearm (try the position). So, why after five days is my
bicep black with bruising while the deltoid only has minor yellow
discoloration with no visible discoloration at the site of the impact
(which is still the center of any residual pain). It was suggested that
the blood has 'settled' in the arm, but that doesn't sound too
plausible to me. Someone else believed that the bleeding was
deeply internal, and that the surface bruising is the edge of the
'bleeding zone' - but again, why centered on the bicep? Can
anyone explain?

bobs@biocat.ncdmf.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.climbing,rec.backcountry
From: eugene@wilbur.nas.nasa.gov (Eugene N. Miya)
Subject: Re: What is sport? (was: A-word)
Organization: NAS, NASA Ames Research Center, Moffett Field, CA
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 93 22:28:42 GMT

In article <24853@hacgate.SCG.HAC.COM> tucker@shiva.UUCP (George Tucker) writes:
>To me everything looks like a thumb.

Ah, I see the problem, wrap your thumb around the handle rather aligned
axially with the shaft.  Just for the purposes of looking mind you.
Perhaps painting is your forte.

>I doubt if my suggestion  had anything to do with my work.  My next choice
>for a sport would be getting old.

That's an interesting comparison.

>>Another person asked me about military mountaineering.

TO one who's email bounced: you are right, there is another mountain war
going on right now, but on-going wars aren't analysed in open discussions,
because "There is a war going on."

>If you support legalization of all drugs, you have a fighting chance.
>Perhaps we should fire liberal credentials at 20 paces until one of us
>runs out of ammo.  BTW, deuling is dangerous and increases the heart rate.

Ammo?  I would have chosen swords; didn't take those kendo and aikido
lessons for nothing.  I'm indifferent about drugs: maybe keep the masses
under sedation, stop all research on lung cancer because of smokers
(sorry Greg), etc.

--eugene miya, NASA Ames Research Center, eugene@orville.nas.nasa.gov
  Associate Editor, Software and Publication Reviews
  Scientific Programming
  {uunet,mailrus,other gateways}!ames!eugene
Seeking Books to buy:	Bongard, Pattern Recognition
			3 down 1 to go.
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: tovey@mullauna.cs.mu.OZ.AU (Gadget)
Subject: Re: high end climbing shoes
Organization: Computer Science, University of Melbourne, Australia
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 05:28:12 GMT

mcrk@troi.cc.rochester.edu (Matt McCormick) writes:

>shoes.  5.10 does not have the best quality or the most durable shoe around
>but their rubber is obviously very good and I think that their shoe designs
>are very good.  It is too bad they can't improve their quality control.  It
>is amazing to me that a $130 pair of shoes will really last no more than a
>season or two of hard climbing.  So what are people's ideas about shoes of
>this sort?
> 
It seems to me that the better rubber'ed shoes you buy, the faster they
wear (like tyres). I think that this is probably just a fact of life! I
recently bought a pair of Dolomites slippers which also have reasonably
sticky rubber, and they are also of fairly low quality (stiching splitting
etc). Maybe the manufacturers aren't too worried since the soles wear so
fast...
Gadget
Matt Tovey             |  Commpower Engineering | tovey@mullauna.cs.mu.OZ.AU
Voice: 61-3-419-4716   |  Melbourne,            | "Tomorrow's ideas on
Fax:   61-3-419-4716   |  Australia.            |       yesterday's technology"
Hone:  61-3-417-6528   |                        |
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: sshostek@sshostek.mentorg.com (Steve Shostek)
Subject: Alpine Touring (randonee) ski advice
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1993 03:41:37 GMT
Distribution: na
Reply-To: steve_shostek@mentorg.com
Organization: mentor
Keywords: 
Followup-To: 

I'm looking for advice about cheap substitutes for expensive
Alpine Touring (randonee) skis.

I'm looking for skis to use with AT bindings and ice climbing boots
on approaches to alpine ice & snow climbs. Since I'll most likely be 
carrying a heavy pack and wearing climbing boots instead of ski boots,
I'm not expecting to use this setup for any fine powder skiing - just
basic transportation in the mtns. And I want to get by cheap. I've 
never been on AT gear before, so I'm looking for advice. I wonder,

- If I go with some used downhill boards to save $$, what characteristics
  should I look for?
- Does anybody out there have any used AT skis that they wanna sell?


I'm planning on using Ramer MT-2000 bindings.

Reply by mail please.



-- 
* steve_shostek@mentorg.com         | What avail are forty freedoms           *
* sshostek@mentorg.com              | without a blank spot on the map?        *
* {uunet, attunix}!mntgfx!sshostek  |                                         *
*                                   |          --Aldo Leopold                 *