HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: gere@umunhum.stanford.edu (Susan Gere)
Subject: Re: Japanese maple sources
Summary: also dwarf conifers for bonsai
Organization: Stanford University CSL
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 92 17:29:42 GMT

 Finally, I found this in the catalog pile!  It looks wonderful,
though I haven't ordered anything from them (yet).

 Mountain Maples
 5901 Spy Rock Road
 Laytonville, CA 95454-1329
 (707) 984-6522

The catalog is very informative with excellent hand illustrations
and offers a wide variery of Acer palmatum as well as dwarf conifers 
(either can be for bonsai). They just started business in 1990.

Just reading their descriptions makes me want to order a truckload!
Organization: Communications & Documentation, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 16:58:15 -0400 
From: Felicia Ferlin <ff0i+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Rose Tree, care info needed


I fell in love with and bought a rose tree even though it supposedly
needs special care if planted in southwestern Pennsylvania.  Now that I
have what I want, how do I take care of it so that spring doesn't find
me pining its demise?  It is still in the pot, so literally picking it
up and moving it to a garage is a possibility for this fall, but what
about next?  The poor thing is bound to get root-bound eventually.  

Advice would be much appreciated.

Felicia


Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: jcp@islay.dco.dec.com (Jolly C. Pancakes)
Subject: Re: horseradish
Keywords: horseradish
Organization: Electric Otter Eel Emporium
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 14:00:31 GMT


I'll second the observation about horseradish being long-lived. My
parents got onto a mortality line of thinking this year and starting
looking at family heirlooms and the like, and this prompted my dad to
give me a piece of the "family" horseradish. My grandfather brought it
from Kentucky 45 years ago and it's been going strong every since, with
chunks of it being eaten annually for New Years'. Now I have a scion of
it happily rooted in my urban backyard, where it will probably remain
until the entire city is paved over.


-- 

------------
jcpatilla					jcp@islay.dco.dec.com
From: shankar@ulysses.att.com (Shankar Ishwar)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: NEED ->>FAQ list of nurseries that sell trees (5 to 8 feet)
Date: 12 Aug 92 20:10:18 GMT
Organization: AT&T Bell Labs, Murray Hill, NJ, USA

I have received several catalogs from nurseries that sell seeds,
shrubs, trees, fruit and veg. plants. Each one of them list
trees which vary from a few inches to 4 feet. Even the 4 foot
tree is typically a single stem.

I was wondering, if I could get trees of good sizes, like in the
local nurseries, about 5 to 8 feet, with healthy trunks of 
1 to 3 inches in diameter, with the root ball burlaped.

While I was at the local nursery, I saw the labels on such trees, but
none of them had an address. All they had was the name of the nursery
and planting instructions. One name that I recall is "Monrovia nurseries".

I would appreciate, if someone could post such a list. 

If you know just one or two, you can E-mail it to me and I will summarize
back to the list.


Thanks in advance


Shankar Ishwar
E-mail  : shankar@ulysses.att.com
V-mail  : (908) 582-6471
US-mail : AT&T Bell Labs, 600 Mountain Ave, Rm. 6H-506 Murray Hill, NJ 07974
From: berthiau@IRO.UMontreal.CA (Andre Berthiaume)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: African Violets
Date: 12 Aug 92 17:59:04 GMT
Organization: Universite de Montreal

Hi!  I'm rather new to this group, so bear with me. :)

I'm quite the novice to gardening but someday I hope to have a nice yard
with all the fixings like some of you have. :)  But right now, living
in an apartment, I have, for starters, an African Violet.

Basically, what I'd like is some advice to make sure this plant remains
healthy and flowers regularly.   I first got the plant back in April
with flowers.  Then the flowers wither and dry (as I asume they normally
do).  Then I guess I made the mistake of trimming off some of the flowers
that were past their prime.  Now was that a mistake? But now I see that it
is ready to bloom with about what looks to be about 5 flowers.  And in the 
interim the plant really flourished as far as becoming more leafy.

In watering the plant, I use Jobe's Liquid Sunsplash African Violet Food 
1-3-2.  It seems to do alright with it.  I have one of those self-watering
pots (it has a reservoir in the bottom for watering).

I'd appreciate any more helpful hints and tips to keep this plant healthy
and lively looking =)

- Eva
  bunny@gnu.ai.mit.edu



(pls ignore the following .sig)
--
	Andre Berthiaume 	 |  "Sometimes you're the windshield,
				 |   Sometimes you're the bug"
    berthiau@iro.umontreal.ca    |			
				 |	       Dire Straits, The Bug
From: jhb@calmasd.prime.com (Jim Bishop)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Clivia seed germination?
Date: 14 Aug 92 05:40:59 GMT
Organization: -

In article <1992Aug13.164927.2847@newshost.unh.edu>, 
mem@kepler.unh.edu (Mary E Martin) writes:
> I have some Clivia seeds that I would like to germinate.
> Has anyone had any luck doing this?
> I would appreciate any helpful hints you might provide.
> 
> Thank You,
> Mary Martin

Well, in So. California where we grow clivias outside in the ground,
you just push the ripened seed (They will be red and look like a
radish.) into the ground a couple of inches and eventually it will
germinate.  It takes quite a few years to get the plant up to blooming
size.  Clivias also bloom better when their roots are crowded so I've
been starting them next to clivias I already have to try to a clump
going.

Stealing seeds is a common way to get a bed of clivias. Most 
gardeners just cut off the seeds and they end up in a landfill anyway.  
A one gallon plant costs about $12 here, which is high for a landscape
plant.

(Oh, and clivia *IS* a member of the amaryllis family.)

Jim
From: jennyb@triton.unm.edu (Jenny Ballmann)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Any experience with New Mexican Locust?
Date: 12 Aug 92 18:40:23 GMT
Organization: UNM Janitorial Staff

In article <19213@drutx.ATT.COM> seb1@druhi.att.com writes:
>In one of my xeriscape books, a small tree/large shrub called a New Mexican
>Locust is recommended as a good plant for dry places. It's native to New
>Mexico, as its name implies. It doesn't get as big as some of the other
>locusts, like the honey locust. I have a dry spot in my yard where I would
>like to plant some. I need a plant that will screen a view so I would like
>something that grows fairly quickly. Also, I have read that this plant is
>attractive to wildlife.
>
>Has anyone used this plant in a garden? Anyone seen it growing in the
>wild and have any views on its usefulness in the garden? Any comments
>at all?
>
It grows in the wild here in N. New Mexico from about 7200 feet altitude
to 9000 feet.  It's a beautiful tree in June, with big rose clusters
of pea-like flowers.  It grows to about 25 feet, and will reach 6 feet
in 4-5 years.  The foliage is pretty, with compound leaves like an
acacia or sumac, but with round leaflets.  

Downsides: it's thorny and invasive.  It also won't be much of a screen
in winter.  The trees don't seem to be very long-lived.

>I am planning on planting it with some pinon pine, another plant very
>common in New Mexico (but a slow grower so not much use as a screen, at
>least for a while).
>
>[I live in Boulder, Colorado.]

Don't know your altitude, but the native zones for these plants barely
intersect here.  The locusts may need a little more water, or less
exposed site, than the pinon. 

Jenny
-- 
"Feet disgust me.  I would've cut mine off, except that I like kicking things."
-R. Hep (nj)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: archiel@sun_archielcom (Archie Lachner)
Subject: Re: worms on brocoli
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 00:38:43 GMT
Organization: mentor
Keywords: 
Followup-To: 

In article <PETRO.92Aug17115828@hancock.cerc.wvu.wvnet.edu>, petro@hancock.cerc.wvu.wvnet.edu (James Petro) writes:
|> Hello.  I am growing brocoli without pesticides, and lo and behold, I
|> have pests!  They are small, green worms.  I could a head up, and they
|> turned into larger, yellow worms.  Needless to say, that ended up on
|> my compost pile.  Is there anything I can do (organically) to get rid
|> of these things before we eat the brocoli?  
|> 
|> I did try soaking the heads in cold water, and about 1 or 2 worms came
|> off.  But the head I cooked had many more on it, so I feel it's not
|> doing the job.  Any suggestions would be welcome.
|> 
|> Jim

These worms can be controlled by BT, about which we have had a debate recently.
Some folks view it as harmful to the environment, even though it qualifies
completely as an organic control.  Others see no overall problem with its use.
It is sold widely and recommended by mail-order companies that sell only "organic"
pesticides.

I leave you to read the articles that have been posted recently on the use of BT
on tomatos and decide for yourself.
-- 
Archie Lachner
Mentor Graphics Corporation
Wilsonville, Oregon
archie_lachner@mentorg.com
From: Jack.Honeycutt@f52.n105.z1.therose.pdx.com (Jack Honeycutt)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Pond Building
Date: 22 Aug 92 00:02:00 GMT
Article-I.D.: therose.714521394.F00002

Hello Lawrence!

22 Aug 92, Lawrence London writes to All:

 LL> What about using a used (or new) swimming pool liner in a pond
 LL> or even remnants or seconds of landfill liners.

Many swimming pool liners have a a chemical in them that will kill fish.  They
would be fine for water plants, but even then you need at least a few mosquitoe
fish in your pond to keep the mosquitoes down...

Jack
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: pharvey@quack.sac.ca.us (Paul Harvey)
Subject: Re: Query: Opuntia spp for Nopales
Keywords: nopales, opuntia spp
Organization: The Duck Pond public unix: +1 408 249 9630, log in as 'guest'.
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1992 06:09:43 GMT

In article <1992Aug22.073442.19818@uniwa.uwa.edu.au> 
arkdr@uniwa.uwa.edu.au (Dave Rindos) writes:
>Perhaps somebody in California, Mexico, or the southwest of the US could
>help me with this question:  I would like to plant an Opuntia (no, it is
>NOT "the weed that ate the world" in WA!) specifically for having my own
>cactus pads (nopales) and fruit (tunas).  Which species is/are the best
>flavoured, or most widely grown?  Can one use pretty much ANY species of
>Opuntia, or only certain species used?  Are the "spineless" types used?

Yes, there are many species which are all used, you may want to
experiment to see which ones work best for you. The opuntia of commerce,
(San Jose, CA was once the opuntia capitol of the US), is Opuntia
ficus-indica. The spineless varieties were developed by Luther Burbank.
Ref: Cornucopia: Stephen Facciola, ISBN: 0-9628087-0-9, Cultivars of O.
ficus-indica: Green: Standard commercial cv, Malta: spineless 1907 Burbank,
Quillota: drops fruit when ripe 1911 Burbank, Florida White: white fruit 
of excellent quality, John Rock of San Jose, CA, 1870
From: pharvey@quack.sac.ca.us (Paul Harvey)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Arugula != Dandelion
Date: 19 Aug 92 22:28:11 GMT
Organization: The Duck Pond public unix: +1 408 249 9630, log in as 'guest'.

My apologies. I am guilty of writing the racial slur of equating the
noble dandelion (a member of the daisy alliance) with the equally noble
arugula (a member of the outlawed by Bush broccoli family). Arugula,
Rocket, Roquette, Rucola is Eruca sativa. Dandelion is Taraxacum
officinale. From Cornucopia, ISBN: 0-9628087-0-9:

Taraxacum officinale - dandelion,pissenlit,radicchiello
Young leaves are eaten in salads, boiled, steamed, sauteed, fried,
braised, etc. The roots are eaten raw, or cooked and served like
salsify. The blanched leaf-stalks, or crown, can be eaten raw or as a
cooked vegetable. Dandelion wine is made from the flowers. The unopened
flower-buds, while still inside the crown, are eaten in pancakes,
omelettes, and fritters. Roasted roots are ground and used as a
substitute for coffee. The flowers are used as an ingredient in the
Arabic cake called yublo. Both the leaves and roots are brewed into tea.
Sprouted seeeds can be eaten. Northern temperate region, cultivated.
Cultivars: Ameliore a Coeur Plein, Broad Leaved, Mauser's Trieb, Vert de
Montmagny.
From: ccel001@shallot.ots.utexas.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: horseradish
Keywords: horseradish
Date: 13 Aug 92 20:12:40 GMT
Article-I.D.: ut-emx.77654

Anyone out there (where are all of you anyway?) grow horseradish? I'm  
trying to find horseradish plants to put in my garden and am having no  
luck.
Does anyone know where to get some?
Does anybody out there grow horseradish? 
Is it hard/easy to grow?
 
Thanks,  Gene Titus.
From: Jack.Honeycutt@f52.n105.z1.therose.pdx.com (Jack Honeycutt)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Pond Building
Date: 17 Aug 92 04:02:36 GMT
Article-I.D.: therose.714117573.F00001

Hello Lily!

14 Aug 92, Lily Pond writes to All:


 LP> Well, I've gotten my new 12'x15'x2' pond all dug, marginal shelf and all,
 LP> trying to decide on vinyl vs. rubber liner, etc. and suddenly realize I've

PVC is out and EPDM is in.

 LP> Well, I've realized a big logistical problem: I want rocks to surround the
 LP> pond and be the liner holder-downers. So I figure that's maybe 50-60 one
 LP> foot in diameter round flat bottomed rocks. Well, the woman at American
 LP> Soil Products tells me they're likely to be 75 lbs. each, and the only way
 LP> they can get delivered is to dump them, expecting breakage, at the top of
 LP> the drive (or wherever). Then anything else - the couple of big flat rocks
 LP> I wanted on the edges, or the one big one for the middle, these'll
 LP> be completely unmovable, I guess. So what am I going to do? Even if I
 LP> forgo the big ones, the edging ones begin to seem impossible. Do I have
 LP> any workable alternatives? Yikes!

Try calling the Garden Pond BBS for pond construction information, pond mesage
areas, pond and filter files for down loading.  Free, no pre valadation on your
first visit.  16.8K, V.32 bis, 9600, etc,  1- 503-735-3074.

Member, International Waterlily Society.

Jack
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: bednarek@picard.med.ge.com (Dennis Bednarek Mfg 4-6971)
Subject: Re: Improving clay soil
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 92 08:09:12 GMT


My prior property had a real thick red clay soil.  The way I fixed it was
1. a one inch layer of masons sand
2. roto-till to a six inch dept
3. a one inch layer of peat moss
4. roto-till to 4 inch dept
5. each fall roto-till all garden wastes into soil
6. each spring added peatmoss and tilled again.
After a few years your neighbors will be surprised at how easy your soil 
works, and how fertile it will be.


--

  
###############################################################################
### What were the Raven's last imortal words????????????????????????????????###
###############################################################################
   Please note that any comments are not my employeers or even mine at times.
From: stevek@providence (Steven Klitzing)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re:sphinx moths
Date: 12 Aug 92 14:56:18 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

I once saw these moths in action during daylight hours at a hotel near the  
entrance to Yosemite national park.  They were visiting beds of flowers  
and drinking nectar from the blossoms.  They had six legs and looked like  
small hummingbirds.  So, apparently, we have them in some areas of the  
west.
From: petro@hancock.cerc.wvu.wvnet.edu (James Petro)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: worms on brocoli
Date: 17 Aug 92 15:58:28 GMT
Organization: Concurrent Engineering Research Center

Hello.  I am growing brocoli without pesticides, and lo and behold, I
have pests!  They are small, green worms.  I could a head up, and they
turned into larger, yellow worms.  Needless to say, that ended up on
my compost pile.  Is there anything I can do (organically) to get rid
of these things before we eat the brocoli?  

I did try soaking the heads in cold water, and about 1 or 2 worms came
off.  But the head I cooked had many more on it, so I feel it's not
doing the job.  Any suggestions would be welcome.

Jim
From: woodley@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Judy Woodley)
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 18:34:13 GMT
Subject: Roots--depths and shapes
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.gardens

We want to landscape our front yard which is pie shaped (very narrow at the 
curb) and the sewer line (we believe) runs under the 'to-be-planted' area. 

The problem is, no garden book we've looked at talks about roots.  We don't
deliberately want to plant something over the sewer line that might impede
its functionality.  So how far away from the line should we plant these
plants?  We need some practical net.wisdom!

We will be planting very low-growing juniper and possibly a tree (we haven't
decided on the type yet).  I assume that since juniper is very drought 
tolerant (we have some junipers elsewhere on the lot that require no water
except rain--not too bad in drought-stricken Sunnyvale, California), they
must have a tap root.  

Now, does a tap root go straight down?  Might it veer off to visit the sewer
line?  Does it have a narrow (or wide) band of rootlets that extend from the
tap root?  

Or do junipers have a wide and deep spread of roots?  How wide and deep?

And trees?  Would a shallow rooted tree (Japanese Maple?) cause any harm to
to the sewer?  

Is there a rule of thumb for roots for deciduous trees versus evergreen types? 

NOTE:  I've been told that the sewer lines around here are 10-15 feet down.

Any information on this would be GREATLY appreciated!

--Judy
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: jclose@chesapeake.ads.com (Jeff Close)
Subject: TOMATOES eaten by  SQUIRRELS!?!?!
Organization: Advanced Decision Systems division of Booz, Allen & Hamilton
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 01:49:05 GMT

Greetings,

We have a problem that we haven't been able to solve:  We have six tomato
plants -- four Roma and two Yellow -- that are producing fairly well, with
minimal damage from bugs.  Our problem is a rotten little squirrel that has
really taken a liking to these things.  Every day we come home from work
there is a mostly-eaten tomato on the railing of the deck.  This rodent
obviously enjoys picking the choicest fruit, scurrying up to our deck, and
munching away.  For awhile we tried leaving other food out, like a piece of
fruit, as a diversion, but he seems to either prefer the tomato or is getting
even fatter eating the extra.  If anyone has any suggestions on how to
drive this guy off, I'd REALLY appreciate it.  Email me if possible, since
I can get it easier.  Thanks much for any help.

Jeffrey
-- 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
jclose@ads.com: ADS BA&H/2111 Wilson Bd #800/Arlington, VA 22201 703-243-1611

Anarchists don't believe in rules.  Surrealists make up their own.
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Dandelions (was Re: ORGANIC lawn care???)
Date: 20 Aug 92 19:08:17 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

pharvey@mipos3.intel.com (Paul Harvey) writes on killing dandelions:
> 3. Safer Sharpshooter Weed Killer
> 	I have never used this and I have no idea what's in it, but it's
> 	gotta beat Ortho, just follow directions exactly and never exceed
> 	prescribed amounts, if anything use less.

"Potassium salts of fatty acids" i.e., soft soap.  Same stuff that
they market as insecticidal soap... yes, soap-burned plants are real!.

My favorite tool for dealing with dandelions is a #2 slot screwdriver--
the ones with the wide "-" tips.  Best all-around weed digger and 
plant collecting tool I own.

And if you don't try to do it all at once (drag out a book and a
glass of your favorite liquid refreshment, then dig a little, read
a little, refill the glass...) it gets to be kinda fun.  The evening
after a Bad Day at the Office is another good time to harvest a 
few dandelions...

Actually, I kinda enjoy dandelions... If you spend a little time looking
at all the dandelions in Yard A, then go 1/4 mile down the road and 
look at Yard B's dandelions, you may well see that the leaf shapes 
(particularly amount of scalloping of the margin) are quite dissimilar
between Yard A and B, but the ones in A all resemble each other, and
the ones in B all resemble each other.

Dandelions play this marvelous fake-sex con game.  They make a "flower"
(actually each dandelion "petal" is really an entire flower) that is
wonderfully suited to insect pollination.  The insects visit the flowers,
collect pollen, pollinate-- the whole bit -- but most of the seeds
are set apomictically (asexual reproduction from ordinary cells of 
the female parent)...  So after a while, each population of dandelions
tend to go off in their own direction of morphology, which is 
guaranteed to drive the taxonomists who like to name new species
to the heights of ecstasy...  ;-)  

Kay Klier  Biology Dept  UNI

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: buckc@ucsu.Colorado.EDU (Carolyn Buck-Gengler)
Subject: Re: horseradish
Keywords: horseradish, composting question
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 20:17:01 GMT

In article <77654@ut-emx.uucp> ccel001@shallot.ots.utexas.edu writes:
>Anyone out there (where are all of you anyway?) grow horseradish? I'm  
>trying to find horseradish plants to put in my garden and am having no  
>luck.
>Does anyone know where to get some?
>Does anybody out there grow horseradish? 
>Is it hard/easy to grow?
> 

I had to chuckle... we have something in our garden that we have
tenatively identified as horseradish (and if someone reads the
description below and thinks it isn't, PLEASE let me know!) -- it
"came with the house".  People, when we describe it, or mention
"horseradish", say "it's a weed! you'll never get rid of it!"
No, this thing is NOT hard to grow (at least not in Colorado, in our
horrid clay-soil!) ( but I don't know how you go about starting it
-- you want some of ours?? :-)

what it looks like is very lacey-frondy leaves on long stalks, that
eventually fill in and become huge leaves (on the stalks, some are
up to 3 1/2 feet high).  We id'd it from the smell of the long straight
root, which is white when you cut it open.

We are planning to tear them out eventually, but for now they are
pretty, and off to the side of the garden.  We don't eat
horseradish, and no neighbors want any either.  But we'll probably
never completely rid ourselves of them.  By the way, what parts
would be safe to put in compost, and what would just be spreading
horseradish throughout my garden if I composted it?

And I'm serious, if anyone *is* in the area and wants some of this
stuff, just holler!!! 

Carolyn
-- 
Carolyn Buck-Gengler		Department of Linguistics
buckc@ucsu.colorado.edu		University of Colorado, Boulder
From: daw+@pitt.edu (Deborah A Wirth)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Hummingbird-like insect?
Keywords: insect hummingbird
Date: 12 Aug 92 12:17:45 GMT
Organization: University of Pittsburgh

If I understood the information correctly, I think you might of seen a 
hummingbird moth. I was at a Nature Preserve and see this weird thing on 
some Bee Balm, it's wings were going like a hummingbird's wing, but it was
using two front legs to pull the petels down so that it could get to the 
necture of the flower. That was the first time I have ever seen anything
like it. I can't remember the colors that it had.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens