HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw

>In rec.autos.vw, gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca (Andy) writes:
>
>I just started to read that heater core stuff and it got me scared
>that people have accidents because of faulty ones. 
>
>Here are some really stupid questions that have probably been answered
>before, but I missed them. (You have to learn somehow)
>
>1) What exactly does the heater core do?

It heats the air coming into the car, so you can be nice and toasty warm
in the winter, and also defog the windshield.  It gets its heat from the
engine, using the same coolant the also flows through the radiator.

>2) Where is it located?

There is a box which hangs down from under the dashboard, between the
driver's and passenger's footwells.  The heater core is in this box.

>3) How do you tell if its bad?

Several ways.  First of all, you will smell the coolant, kind of a sweet,
syrup-like smell.  Secondly, on a cool day, you might find that using the
windshield defogger makes things WORSE.  Thirdly, you might see some green
fluid dripping from the bottom the the box mentioned in question #2.  And
fourth, your coolant level will slowly go down.

Note:  To calibrate yourself on the smell of coolant, drive you car until
warm.  Then stop, and SLOWLY remove the coolant fill cap, using a rag or
towel to grab the cap (don't get burnt by the steam or hot coolant).
When you have the cap off, take a smell, and calibrate your nose.

>4) Is an '85 GTI affected by it?

I think this may be in the correct time window, but I'm not sure.

>5) How can people have accidents because of it.

Sometimes, though very seldom, some heater cores will develop a major leak
very quickly, spraying boiling hot coolant on the driver's feet.


Donald Borowski    WA6OMI    Hewlett-Packard, Spokane Division
"Angels are able to fly because they take themselves so lightly."
                                       -G.K. Chesterton
From: 01ksdavis@bsu-ucs.uucp
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Factory Authenticity (Was: Re: Tell us about your
Date: 17 Apr 92 02:27:37 GMT

In article <1992Apr10.220047.6617@uwm.edu>, greis@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Gayla Ann Greis) writes:
> In article <1992Apr10.164123.2669@aurora.com> steve@aurora.com (Steve Anderson) writes:
>>My current project is a 1957 Oval Window. It was built on August 2,
>>1956 and was the 157th beetle made that year. (I really did write the
>>factory, and they promptly answered!)
> 
> Hmmmm.... I haven't bothered to do this for any of my German made VWs
> yet, but I would like to do this for my Mexican made '73 Type 181.
> Where would I write? I suppose I would like to do this some day, but
> should I write to Germany, or Mexico? And where, specifically?
	Specifically, you might want to write Mexico, because that's where the
type 181 was made.  I am pretty sure that they had the same plant back then
that they do now (Puebla, Mexico.)
	To get the address, you might have to contact VWUS, or perhaps write
one of the VW magazines.
	Good luck. 

	B.T.W.-does your gas heater work?

		-Kyle
From: jdonsbac@cvbnet.prime.com (Jeff Donsbach x4365 5-2)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Tire Advice Sought
Date: 9 Apr 92 20:50:13 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Computervision, a Company of Prime Computer, Inc.

Douglas,
     Some other suggestions to check out:

	Dunlop D60 M2
	Bridgestone RE71'a (I had your size on my old car. They were great!)
	Bridgestone HP41 (less performace oriented then the RE71)
	BF Goodrich Comp T/A (various model variants)
	Falken (??)

	Also, you may want to settle for an H rated tire instead. In daily driving
	they will give good performace, possibly a better ride, last a little longer
	and be cheaper than the same tire with a V rating. (The RE71's I had were H rated
	and I got over 50,000 miles from them!)

-Jeff

-- 
==========================
Jeff Donsbach, Computervision, 14 Crosby Dr., Bedford, MA 
UUCP: {decvax|linus|sun}!cvbnet!jdonsbac | Internet: jdonsbac@cvbnet.prime.com
From: merrill@scivax.stsci.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Mexican VW buses?
Date: 7 Apr 92 13:45:23 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Space Telescope Science Institute

In article <ku2amkINNe7b@appserv.Eng.Sun.COM>, lm@slovax.Eng.Sun.COM (Larry McVoy) writes:
> 
> One thing surprised me - it looked like they had put some sort of
> cooler on the front of the bus, looked just like a radiator.  Since my
> spanish is limited to "quantos?" I didn't ever figure out what they had
> changed.  Does anyone know if it is a water or oil cooler?  Know any
> other details?  Is there a camper version?  Who's making these,
> Brazil?  Anyone imported one?  How bad was it?
> 
It is a radiator!  They have water cooled engines in the back.  
there are two long steel tubes that carry the coolant.  I was
in a group that  had them rented for two weeks while in Mexico.
Too bad I was sick the whole time or I would of checked them out
more.  It seemed to run much better than an older bus.

Clark B. Merrill                        
Space Telescope Science Institute
Baltimore, Maryland
merrill@stsci.edu
From: HF.SXM@forsythe.stanford.edu (Sara MacGilvra)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Scirocco front end rattle
Date: 7 Apr 92 19:01:54 GMT
Article-I.D.: morrow.1992Apr7.190154.7175
Organization: Stanford University, California, USA




I am in need of some net.wisdom.

I have a '84 Scirocco.  There is a rattling sound coming from the
front end. I started hearing it only when driving on uneven
pavement. However now it does it more, even on fairly smooth
surfaces.   When I brake it goes away.  When
in reverse sometimes there is a click, click, click.

Could it be brakes, clutch?  The struts are new and I've had the
suspension looked at so I don't think it is there.  Any help would
be appreciated.  I don't know if I have a potential safety problem,
or just an annoyance.

Thanks

Sara
From: burden_d@oass.enet.dec.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: '85 Golf Diesel Engine: Oil warning light question
Date: 8 Apr 92 20:22:41 GMT
Reply-To: burden_d@oass.enet.dec.com ()
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation


Is the oil pressure switch on the oil filter housing or on the side of
the head?  The head might have slighly less pressure than down below.

A simple test would be to install a mechanical oil pressure guage in
addition to the oil warning light.  That would tell you what really is
going on.

--
Dave Burden                                      ______--------___
Digital Equip Corp - Alpharetta, GA             /|             / |
                                     o___________|_\__________/__|
burden_d@oass.enet.dec.com          ]|___     |   |=  ||  =|___  |"
                                    //   \\   |   |___||_///   \\|"
                                    |  X  |\-------------/|  X  |\"
                                     \___/                 \___/
From: pk16@frc.ri.cmu.edu (Paul Keller)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Are VWs any good (anymore)?
Date: 6 Apr 92 14:53:21 GMT
Reply-To: pk16@frc.ri.cmu.edu (Paul Keller)
Distribution: rec
Organization: Field Robotics Center, CMU


> I have been to Germany. There are absolutely no American or Japanese 
> cars over there.

There may not be many American cars targeted for the US and sold in
Germany, but unless things have changed in the last 3 months, I was
very surprised about how many Ford and Opel (GM) cars there were in
Germany.  Ford seemed to me to be close to #2 behind VW...


--
Paul Keller                     paul.keller@frc.ri.cmu.edu
Field Robotics Center           Phone: (412) 268-6563
The Robotics Institute          Fax: (412) 682-1793
Carnegie Mellon University
Pittsburgh, PA 15213
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: drew@csmail.cs.uoguelph.ca (Andrew MacPherson)
Subject: Spring is here...
Organization: Computing & Communication Services, University of Guelph
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1992 19:29:04 GMT

This is really nothing more than a test... And an opportunity to say:

VW Rules!
From: wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Tell us about your air-cooled VW!!!
Date: 7 Apr 92 12:53:00 GMT
Article-I.D.: usenet.1992Apr7.125300.2522
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio, (USA)


Let's see, my favorite Volksie...

Well of course!  The one I just sold a few months ago, my dearly
beloved Gretchen, '71 Standard Bug, rusted out floors and frozen
front suspension.  I put a lot of time into rebuilding her
engine, but felt that parting as friends was for the best :-(

Man, working on my '77 bus engine sure makes me pine for that
1600!  My next bus will definitely be the afore-mentioned '67 if
I can find one.

Bill
-- 
William Claspy			Case Western Reserve University
Internet- wpc@po.cwru.edu
MaBellnet- (216) 368-3595
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: kives@angell.engin.umich.edu (Steve Kives )
Subject: Re: test, why can't we post from suny buffalo
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 92 19:17:50 EDT
Organization: University of Michigan Engineering, Ann Arbor


Reading you loud and clear in Michigan, here.  Must be that I'm close to the
source (just like when you call the operator, it always LOUDER :-] ).
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: dhbutler@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (David Butler)
Subject: HELP, 68 Bug shock struts rusted off!
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 18:44:20 GMT

I need some help with my (beautiful) 68 bug. The car is extememly straight. The
rust underneath in minimal and where the suspension attaches to the body it is 
PERFECT (literally). However, for some unknown reason the shock struts (is that
what they are called? The metal pieces which hold the top of the shock in 
place) have rusted so badly they finally gave way and broke off. I intend to 
get new (or used) replacements for these and have them welded in. Does anyone 
know where I can get such replacements. I would prefer to purchase new ones if 
anyone manufactures them. The only other option I seem to have in replacing the
intire axle assemly, which is about $400. Additionally, the current front-end 
is in perfect shape (driving wise it is perfect), and I don't want to replace 
any of the good parts if I can help it. If anyone has any other options or any 
recomendations I would like to hear them (please!).

Finally, these finally gave way while driving on the HIGHWAY! I hit nothing 
unusual. The car drives PERFECT, no unusual vibrations or anything. What could 
have caused this besides rust? Honestly, I don't think they were rusty enough 
to break apart like this. I've owned other bugs, and a couple were far worse 
off than this one and still held together. I'm thinking there could have been 
some vibration at a frequency I could not detect? Any ideas out there or do you
think it was just rust?

Thank you thank you thank you for any help you can give! :-( :-( :-(
-------------------------------------------->
- dhbutler@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu

  "I think I need a new vice. Maybe I'll take up sleeping." - me

          - Kaleidoscope woman
            In rhinestone levi's jeans
            Dancing in the sunset
            Sketching day's last scene -       Willie Phoenix
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: kirchner@unix.cie.rpi.edu (Eric Kirchner)
Subject: Fuel Injection Question/Problem
Organization: CIE, Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1992 21:05:56 GMT

Hello all,

I have a 1981 scirocco with 130k miles.  Over the past few months I
have had a problem with poor idle.  It had been getting rough and
also decreasing in rpms.  To compensate I have opened the idle screw
quite a bit.  The problem has gotten worse so that it will not idle
when warm, and the car runs roughly while cruising.  
I should say that acceleration is good and 
smooth.  The ignition seems to check out ok and I can not detect any
problem with the air intake.  I pulled the injectors out to observe
the spray pattern and on all four 
it is quite poor when the air sensor is
deflected a little, but improves as deflection is increased.  There
is no dripping at zero deflection.  I have not been able to check
the fuel system pressure.

I am guessing I need to replace the injectors.  Does anyone have 
an opinion on this?  Also, could there be a problem with the fuel
distributor?  And if I do replace the injectors what can I do to 
prevent the new ones from going bad. (I replaced the fuel filter
at 120k miles.)   

Thanks for all advice.

Eric Kirchner
kirchner@unix.cie.rpi.edu
Organization: The American University - University Computing Center
Date: Wednesday, 15 Apr 1992 04:17:52 EDT
From: Naz Reyes <NAZ@auvm.american.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: 1993 Golf/Cabriolet? (Was Re: OPINIONS WANTED ON 1992 VW GOLF)
 <1992Apr14.171643.3822@bmerh2.bnr.ca>

In article <1992Apr14.171643.3822@bmerh2.bnr.ca>, alvin@bmerh327.bnr.ca (Alvin
Yeung) says:
>
>In article <1992Apr14.004430.16325@leland.Stanford.EDU>
>ed@sun-valley.Stanford.EDU (Edward Wilson) writes:
>>I'm considering buying a new 1992 VW Golf (5 speed, 4 door)
>>
>
>You might want to wait until the fall.  There will
>be a new generation of Golfs coming out.  Interior
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Is it true that the 1993 Golfs will be replacing the Cabriolets?
Does anyone know the full story?  Any articles in the car mags
about this one?

-Naz
From: anh@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (christopher.j.hapeman)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Weird Problem...
Date: 6 Apr 92 17:05:12 GMT
Organization: AT&T

From article <1992Apr3.224746.24847@news.cs.brandeis.edu>, by st901745@pip.cc.brandeis.edu (Alastair M. Bor):
> in the lines. It took about 2 minutes to start the car. Once the car 
> started, it was idling terribly (ie:100rpm or so). Also, when I tried to
> rev the engine it did not like it. The car had all of 20hp (or so it seemed).
> The car also would not move.. its stalled and stumbled like crazy. Since

After having a normal tune-up done on my '87 Golf GL it exhibited 
similar symptoms.  After about 3 days of investigation the shop
decided to swap in a new fuel injection system which fixed the
problem.  They said it must have gone bad, my claim is they
damaged it by not being careful enough when installing the new
air filter.  Apparently you have to lift up an area which the 
fuel injector is enclosed in to replace the filter and if you are
not careful you could damage the injector.

Who paid for what is a different story.

Christopher Hapeman
cjh@garage.att.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: tomh@wes.on.ca (Tom Haapanen)
Subject: Re: Experience purchasing 1992 VW GTI 16v (long)
Organization: Waterloo Engineering Software
Date: Tue, 07 Apr 1992 17:17:03 GMT

keys@csrc.ncsl.nist.gov (Larry Keys) writes:
> Even a GOOD oil filter wrench wouldn't work.  When my car was new 1990
> Jetta GLI i had the same problem.  [...]

This is a "problem" that's "normal" with VWs.  The oil filters are put on
very tightly at the factory, and so are a pain to get off the first time.
After the first change there is no problem.

The solution?  Never make the first oil change yourself!  I have followed
this policy with four new VWs ('86 GTI, '87 Golf, '89 Jetta, '90 GTI 16V)
and never had any problems.  :)

[ \tom haapanen    "i don't even know what street canada is on" -- al capone ]
[ tomh@wes.on.ca                   "trust the programmer" -- ansi c standard ]
[ waterloo engineering software      "to thine own self be true" -- polonius ]
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: oil sludge in AIR-COOLED vehicles
From: dlovely@desire.wright.edu (Captain Chaos)
Date: 13 Apr 92 11:27:31 EST
Reply-To: dlovely@desire.wright.edu

From article <1992Apr10.165940.29201@hal.com>, by ni@hal.com (Minister of Silly Walks):
> 
> Plenty of people have given suggestions as to what the yellowish
> sludge found under oil caps is in a water-cooled engine, but
> what about in an air cooled engine?  is it just water condensate
> (is there that much water in the air, and where does it condense
> into such that it gets into the oil), or is it some sort of
> froth that the oil gets beat into?  is it related to the type
> of oil that you use?
> 
> For that matter, is there any wisdom to some oils being better than
> others for use in an air-cooled engine (I have a '77 2.0 in a bus)?
> One I've heard is to absolutely stay away from Castrol, and then
> the other "wisdom" that I've heard is that Castrol is the best...
> I guess you get what you pay for.

The "sludge" is indeed due to trapped moisture.  Try drilling a SMALL
hole in the cap to allow it to evaporate.


--
******************************************************************************* Captain Chaos 				"This is a .44 Magnum, the most         Wright State University		powerful handgun in the world. It'll    Computer Science & Engineering		blow your head clean
 off!"              Dayton, Ohio				  - Clint Eastwood, "Dirty Harry"       *******************************************************************************
From: 01ksdavis@bsu-ucs.uucp
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: POOR COLLEGE STUDENT READ THIS!!!
Date: 15 Apr 92 01:08:26 GMT
Article-I.D.: bsu-ucs.1992Apr14.200826.6395


	you're right.  A bus is too unwieldly to drive during the winter.  The
wind will blow it right off of the road, especially if the road is icy.
	A ghia has the lowest profile of the three, so it should handle better.
Since it's body was hand-built, it costs to replace body parts.
	A bug has been viewed as the most trustworthy and reliable of the
three, along with being the one with the best mileage.
	What you should avoid in all cases.  Rusted floorboards-if the rust has
accumulated here, it is most assuredly in other places.  Fuel injection-VW
never perfected fuel injection on the air-cooled models.  The fuel tends to
freeze in the lines.  Also look out for 6 volt electrics-these are usually post
67 VWs.  They can't be jump started by just about anything else on the road,
although I have had succes push starting them-like any motorcycle.
	Winter driving in VWs is a unique experience in all it's own.  While my
middle school history teacher has successfully driven his 65 VW microbus from
Indiana to Alaska and back, I wouldn't suggest that anybody reasonably sane do
this.
	What will help in both the ghia's and the bug's cases is to put a heavy
construction brick or something of similar weight in the front trunk of each
car.  This will greatly improve steering in winter situations.  
	In the bugs, look for auto-sticks.  This is a pretty cool transmission,
but don't buy it unless the owner shows you how to drive it, and also if it
isn't leaking transmission fluid.  I know, I sound like I'm being picky, but in
the long run, it is better to avoid having to replace that transmission seal.
	Another thing about the auto-sticks.  Every two years, they will need a
switch that goes underneath the gear shift.  This switch can be purchased from
any VW dealer.  The last time I bought one I think it costed $12.95.
	I am a fellow financially strapped college student, so I know how tight
the money situation is.  If you buy a ghia, it will be worth more money down
the road as long as you keep it well maintained and try to restore it a little
at a time (who can afford to restore a car full-out anymore?)
	Good luck in the bug/ghia/bus hunt (my personal order of preference.)


			You are now entering
			The farvegnugen zone.

		VW bug 20 million sold and still counting (in Mexico)

			:-)Kyle
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: eldred@rrunner.jpl.nasa.gov (Dan Eldred)
Subject: Re: Q about points on '71 camper.
Organization: Jet Propulsion Lab
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 17:03:04 GMT

In article <20193@castle.ed.ac.uk> W.Warburton@ed.ac.uk writes:
>
>Hi again,
>	  I got some good advice when I asked about my heater problems
>(thanks, guys) so I'm back for more :-)
>
> I spent the weekend doing some longish (200 miles +) trips and my 
>camper (Grandpa) seems to be burning up his points :-(.
> He started running rough after I'd driven a few hundred miles at
>around 60 mph on the motorways so I checked the points & they had a
>medium sized peak/pit burnt into them. I filed the peak off & reset
>the gap (no dwell meter, so points set by feeler gauge) and then set off
>again. By the time I'd got home (about another 350 miles in two stages)
>he was sounding really rough again. I was driving at about 60ish, as 
>before, depending on conditions etc. (his speedo is calibrated in Km/h
>and I lift my foot when he gets to 100 (62mph) unless I'm overtaking).
>
> Grandpa has a factory reconditioned 1584cc engine, and runs on leaded
>petrol. I'm planning to take him back to the garage I bought him from
>but I'd like to have a second opinion about what's happening.
>
> Can anybody advise? I think it should be OK to drive him like this, do
>you?
>

There's too much current going through the points.  Make sure the spark
plugs are gapped and the cables are ok.  Try replacing the condenser.
If that doesn't work, try replacing the coil.  The best solution,
however, is to install an aftermarket electronic ignition which
eliminates points altogether--and thus ignition timing never loses
adjustment.

-- 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
|   PRESERVE THE BILL OF RIGHTS.  STOP CIVIL FORFEITURE UNDER RICO!   |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
| Dan Eldred                  | Jet Propulsion Laboratory, 198-326    |
| eldred@rrunner.jpl.nasa.gov | 4800 Oak Grove Dr.,Pasadena, CA 91109 |
| Phone: (818) 354-6519       | Fax: (818) 393-4440                   |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: jeff@dsp.sps.mot.com (Jeff Enderwick)
Subject: VW Cabriolet: removing interior top lining.
Organization: /home/dsp/users/jeff/.organization
Distribution: rec
Date: 6 Apr 92 11:32:38

Has anyone out there removed the interior lining of the convertible top ?
Mine's white and needs cleaning. I'm not too into doing it upside down, and
rolling the car over is out of the question. Any tips ?

	jeff@dsp.sps.mot.com

From: martin@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Sam Martin)
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1992 23:24:29 GMT
Subject: '75 Beetle Brake Problems
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw

	I'm having a proplem with my '75 Bug brakes.  I have recently
	overhauled the whole system (i.e., new master and all four
	slaves) and seem to have a problem getting full braking
	power.

	I have checked and re-check brake lines for air (I used up
	about a gallon of brake fluid in the process) and I am positive
	there is no air in the lines (used one of those bleeding tools
	to prevent air from getting back into the slaves.)

	I have adjusted the plunger (the part that connects the brake
	peddle with the master cylinder) to give it a little more travel
	with no luck.

	I have checked for leaks.  Found none and I don't lose any fluid
	from the resevior.

	I don't see any pinched lines either.....hmmmmm?????

	I have noticed that, at times, I will be driving down the freeway
	for a long period of time; take an offramp; hit the brakes and they
	are much better than normal.  Other times just the same.

	I'm worried that I'll need to slame on the brakes and not be
	able to stop in time.

	What's next?

	Any suggestions?

	Thanks,

	Sam

		...this is the only time I wish I could make skid marks...

----------------------------------------------------------------------
Sam Martin                              Hewlett-Packard Co.  Palo Alto
EMail: martin@hpcc26.corp.hp.com        PAITC Network Engineering
HP Desk:  Sam MARTIN/HP0000/GR          Bldg 20 -  Level C - Post C12H
Phone: 1-857-4982  | (415) 857-4982     Mailstop: 20CE