HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: hubcap@hubcap.clemson.edu (System Janitor)
Subject: Re: "Rainforest Destruction Has Many Victims"
Organization: Clemson University
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 20:48:03 GMT

"Jim Johnson 7-9535 (6518 TS/EN)" <jjohnson@EDWARDS-SCY.AF.MIL> writes:

>      It is my understanding that most rain forest loss is due to slash and
>      burn agriculture.  I'm sure that a targeted species such as rosewood
>      would be affected by export to woodworkers but the vast majority of
>      loss is agriculture.  

Here's a FOAF story. The stump is real, so there's probably something
to the story. He's got a huge rosewood stump. He's only got the stump
because they'd already burned the tree. The first branch was at about
60 (80?) feet.

I'm not a carver, so I'll just ask. Is $10.00 a pound for 8-25 pound
rosewood burls a good price?

-Mike
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: guido@blink.att.com (Guido Bertocci)
Subject: Re: Safest way to use radial arm saw?
Organization: AT&T
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 16:28:52 GMT

I distinctly remember being at a woodworking show where Forrest was
demonstrating their blades on a radial arm saw.  
They were clearly cross cutting by pushing the blade back through the wood 
(i.e. the reverse of what you might expect).  They were making some 
claims about how it cut better and smoother with less tearout.

The guy giving the demo still had all his fingers and facial features :-).
From: rtrudel@zarathustra.prime.com (Robin Trudel)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: coloured stains for kids blocks
Date: 23 Dec 92 14:47:04 GMT
Organization: Computervision

This is my first post.  I am a carver and this topic comes up frequently
for me.  I know that there are paints that considered non-toxic, but when
a child's life/health are at stake I will not take chances.  Maybe I am
slightly paranoid about this but I feel its worth it.

I didn't have any references on this subject the first time I colored a
child's toy so I used personal experience.  Cranberry and blueberry juice 
make brilliant colors, but there is a lot of bleeding (ie. You can't paint
with them, only stain).  Food coloring also works but gets expensive quickly.

I have ingested all of these so I have no qualms about letting my little one
chew on it.  The only problems I have encountered are the extended drying 
time and color-fastness...Any Suggestions?


Robin
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: parnass@cbnewse.cb.att.com (Bob Parnass, AJ9S)
Subject: Re: Comments on Delta 16" Band Saw  (28-560) please
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories, Naperville, IL
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 20:38:36 GMT
Summary: Delta 3 wheeler problems discussed

In article <1992Dec22.185425.27938@bnr.ca>, golka@bnr.ca writes:

  >    I have a 16" three wheeler. My biggest beef is that you have
  >    to skew stock about 10 degrees when ripping, or resawing.
  >    This makes the fence useless, as the work wanders off the
  >    fence, or binds against it. It may be I haven't got the
  >    machine setup right. If anyone knows how to fix the, please
  >    post the secret.

  >    Beef #2 is that when resawing thick stock, or cutting lathe
  >    blanks, the blade bows in towards the left side of the saw.
  >    That is the blade at the middle of the cut thickness is
  >    about 1/4" to the left of the top and bottom guides. This
  >    gives a boards with convex, and matching concave cups to
  >    them. By the time you plane them flat, the effective saw
  >    kerf width is > 1/4"! Once again it may be a setup problem.
  >    If anyone knows ho wto fix this PLEASE post a reply.
  >    Thanks Bill Crick

What size blade do you use which bows during resawing?
What size wood?


For a few years, I had an older Delta 16" 3-wheel bandsaw  -- the same
model you have but made in Canada and slightly beefier blade
guide assembly.   I experienced the same problems you did, and more.
Some of them I solved after reading Duginske's classic Bandsaw
Handbook -- very highly recommended.

The Delta instructions aren't complete enough to teach one
how to use and align a bandsaw, so read this book.

For instance, alignment of the rip fence and miter gauge,
along with changing the position of the blade on the tires,
can compensate for the tendency of the saw to cut a few degrees off.
Worked for me.

Since I didn't know any better, I left tension on the blade
at all times so I suspect the tensioning spring wore out, causing
inaccuracy in the tension calibration.
In retrospect, I should have tightened the blade more than I did
or just buy a new spring.

Using washers as shims, I aligned the cast iron table to be
horizontal (at right angles to the blade).  Too bad that wasn't
good enough.

After careful study and a wrecking some oak boards, I realized the
construction of the table is such that the table can "twist" when
tilting it, i.e., tilt in 2 directions simultaneously.

The tilting mechanism is flimsy and trying to bend the 2 brackets
in a vise didn't improve the accuracy enough.
I couldn't think of a good way to solve that problem so I
sold the saw and got a new Delta 14" 2-wheeler with height
extension.  What a difference!   :-)

The 14" 2 wheeler cuts better in most every way, but it does cost
more money.

PS - I now release the blade tension when not using the bandsaw.
-- 
==============================================================================
Bob Parnass, AJ9S  -  AT&T Bell Labs  -  parnass@ihlpm.att.com - (708)979-5414
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: pollack@dendrite.cis.ohio-state.edu (Jordan B Pollack)
Subject: advice on laminate work
Originator: pollack@dendrite.cis.ohio-state.edu
Reply-To: pollack@cis.ohio-state.edu
Organization: Ohio State Computer Science
Distribution: rec
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 21:44:40 GMT

I bought a used table with an 84 by 18" by 1.5" formica laminate top,
and need to shorten it by 3 inches and finish it back up. It is
50's or 60's and I dont know if it is wood or particle board underneath.

The problem is I don't know how it will work, and am afraid of shattering
the top, or ending with an unfinishable edge.

I thought of doing a salami end cut, where I cut off the rounded end,
make another cut out from the middle, and glue the end back on. This
will result in original edge banding, but a visible formica join.

Alternatively, if the probability of destruction goes up with a second
saw cut, I could just cut the end off, and then try to use it as a
template for routing new corners using a following bit. Somewhere I
should be able to find a matching edge treatment...

Any suggestions or advice appreciated.

-- 
Jordan Pollack                            Assistant Professor
CIS Dept/OSU                              Laboratory for AI Research
2036 Neil Ave                             Email: pollack@cis.ohio-state.edu
Columbus, OH 43210                        Phone: (614)292-4890 (then * to fax)
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-Acknowledge-To: <UKA004@ukcc.uky.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Wed, 23 Dec 1992 09:53:05 EST
From:         "Bramel, Jim" <UKA004@UKCC.UKY.EDU>
Subject:      Re: refinishing kitchen cabinets
              22 Dec 1992 19:21:42 GMT from <grun@INTELLISTOR.COM>

My experience has been that lacquer thinner will soften any finish but
latex and I have not found paint thinner to soften polyurethane.
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-Mailer: ELM [version 2.3 PL11]
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Wed, 30 Dec 1992 09:13:38 CST
From:         Garry Burgess <gburges@CCU.UMANITOBA.CA>
Subject:      Re: Table Saw surface rust
              29

Ed,

I've given up on wax, and have returned to WD-40.  I buy it now in the 4
litre quantities, and I haven't had rust problems since.  I spray all of
my tools now with WD-40.

Garry
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-VMS-To: IN%"WOODWORK%IPFWVM.BitNet@pucc.PRINCETON.EDU"
MIME-version: 1.0
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Wed, 30 Dec 1992 15:45:12 -0500
From:         "Wile E. Coyote" <BBHULSEY@LIFE.UAMS.EDU>
Subject:      Plane Pricing

Greetings!

I'm a new subscriber, so I hope I'm not asking about something that's already
been beaten to death.

I'd like to know if there are any publications discussing antique (or simply
old) woodworking tools and the current market value/pricing thereof.  In
particular, I'm interested in getting information about older Stanley and
Bailey hand planes, dates of manufacture and descriptions of various models,
pricing, etc.  Any information is greatly appreciated.  Thanks!

.......
:  o/ : Bruce Hulsey
: <|  : Univ. of Arkansas for Medical Sciences
: / > : internet: bbhulsey@life.uams.edu
:.....: bitnet:   bbhulsey@uams
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: Safest way to use radial arm saw?
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 20:15:34 GMT

ron@topaz.bds.com (Ron Natalie) writes:
: 
: > Is it best to push the blade through the work, or pull it through the
: > work.
: 
: Push, always push.

Wrong! On a radial arm say - NEVER push the blade through the work. This
will cause the blade to lift the work - guaranteeing that it will bind and
cause all sorts of havoc - if not an injury.

You push the work into the blade, when ripping.

Bill
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 21 Dec 1992 15:36:54 EST
From:         Jim Morgan <JMORGAN@BROWNVM.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Safest way to use radial arm saw?

>Posted on 21 Dec 1992 at 15:10:14 by Eric Hamilton
>
>Re: Safest way to use radial arm saw?
>
>Date:         Mon, 21 Dec 1992 18:49:28 GMT
>Reply-To:     Woodworking Discussions <WOODWORK@IPFWVM.BITNET>
>From:         Eric Hamilton <hamilton@BATMAN.RTP.DG.COM>
>
>In article <BzH9BG.A3F@fc.hp.com>, scot@fc.hp.com (Scot Heath) writes:
>
>|> I had quite a scare with a radial arm saw.  I was cutting banisters for my
>|> deck and I had a jig set up because I had a bunch to do.  I would cut one,
>|> flip the remainder, cut another and then get a new piece of stock.  I got
>|> distracted and the vibration of the saw caused the carriage to work it's
>|> way out on the arm.  I picked up a piece of lumber and without really
>|> looking, swung it up on the table and hit the motor of the saw.  I nearly
>|> wet my pants when I realized I could just have easily swung my hand into
>|> the blade.  I immediately put blocks under the front legs to cause the
>|> carriage to be held in by gravity.
>
>A number of us have responded to the initial poster, either by email or by
>post, about the importance of getting hold of the manual for the tool.
>
>This story reminded me that the manual for my RAS (Sears, 12 yrs old,
>incomparably better than anything they sell now) mentions this particular
>hazard and the importance of setting up the saw so that it slopes towards
>the back, to prevent exactly this from happening.
>
>How many more safety rules of that sort, not at all obvious during setup,
>are there?
>
>I hope the original poster follows our advice and gets the manual before
>he uses his saw.  This is good advice for any new tool, but for something
>as dangerous as a big saw, is essential.
>
>
>--
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>Eric Hamilton                           +1 919 248 6172
>Data General Corporation                hamilton@dg-rtp.rtp.dg.com
>62 Alexander Drive                      ...!mcnc!rti!xyzzy!hamilton
>Research Triangle Park, NC  27709, USA

Several posts on the list have recommended Jon Eakes book, "Fine Tuning
Your Radial Arm Saw."  I agree - no RAS owner should be without a copy.
One of the points that Eakes makes is that if you have to tilt your saw
to keep the carriage from running forward on the arm then your saw is _badly_
out of adjustment.  The bearings on the carriage that ride on the tracks in the
arm should be adjusted so that the carriage moves snugly - i.e., requires a
little (not much, but some) effort on the operator's part, but does not
allow the carriage to move of its own accord.  So follow Mr. Eakes' advice:
clean the tracks and bearings often (with a clean rag & ammonia) and tighten
up those bearings!  For one thing, the saw will be safer - less tendency to
climb in cuts.  For another thing, the saw will be more accurate - when those
bearings are loose, the carriage is jumping up and down & from side to side.


Jim Morgan
Brown Unversity
James_Morgan@Brown.Edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ericb@microsoft.com (Eric Brown)
Subject: Re: Shaper vs. routr table
Date: 29 Dec 92 18:18:26 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp
Keywords: shaper router

Steven Johnson writes:
|I'm fairly ignorant in the use/purpose of a shaper.  I currently have
|a nice router table with a nice PC router in it.  IS there any  reason
|for me to get a shaper?  (There's a good deal on one locally, but if
|I can do all the operations a shaper can on the router, then why 
|spend extra money?)  
|
|I know the shaper brings more HP to the work, but given slower feed
|rates, couldn't I just do everything on the router?  (This is a
|variable speed PC router, so I can slow big bits down.)

The major advantages of a shaper over a router/table are:
1. Deeper/wider cutting profile capacity.  There are huge (10 inch diameter)
cutterheads that can cut >4" deep rabbets, open mortices, or tennons.
There are also 4 to 6 inch high cutters for very wide profiles. (Note
that these larger cutters are only available for production sized shapers;
those with spindles of an inch or greater diameter.)
2. Greater feed rate/capacity.  This is obvious from the heavier motor/
components.
3. Custom knives.  You can get custom router bits made, but they are
very pricey.  Shaper knives can be ground from blank stock with ordinary
grinders.  It's not too difficult, I've done it myself.

The biggest disadvantage (other than cost/size): Bigger cutterheads means
more danger, especially if you are using non-indexed loose knives.
Shapers are extremely dangerous tools, perhaps the most dangerous tool
in a typical woodshop.  (hey, maybe we should start a "my tool is more
dangerous than yours" thread ;-)

If you can get the results you seek from a router in a table, then your
money may be better spent on another tool rather than a shaper.

BTW, does anyone know of any good books on the use of shapers?  I would not
recommend anyone using a shaper without proper instruction.

-- 
    Eric
               Microsoft Systems, Advanced Systems Development
          {sun | uw-beaver | apple | uunet | fluke}!microsoft!ericb 
                       internet: ericb@microsoft.com
From: lane@duphy4.physics.drexel.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: "Rainforest Destruction Has Many Victims"
Date: 24 Dec 92 11:48:19 GMT
Distribution: all
Organization: Drexel University Physics

In article <1992Dec23.073527.2561@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com>, billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson) writes:
> tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin) writes:
> : >: >countries.  Another fact - the rate of deforestation in Brazil has
> : >: >been at the rate of 0.5%/year.
> : >:
> : >:    Could you please cite a reference for this "fact"?
> : >
> : >I believe that it was in National Geographic's "On Assignment", on
> : >PBS.
> :
> : This was discussed as a result of careful photographic surveying by
> : the Shuttle on the recent PBS series on Space.  I remember, because
> : I was surprised it was so low.
>
> Thanks, Tom. Maybe that is where I saw it, but I don't think so.
> However, you are right - the value was obtained from a shuttle or
> satellite survey.
>
> I was also surprised at the low rate. I expected, from all the media
> hype, that 30 or 40% had already been cleared.
>

Mostly because 0.5% of the forested area of Brazil is still a *LOT* of
square miles, and makes a big impression when shown on TV.

Which makes me suspect that the fraction of "deforested" wood that
actually makes it onto the world market is very small...otherwise we'd
see rosewood used for hurricane repairs in south florida :-)

Is the wood exported even coming from the `slashed and burned' areas?
--

 Drexel University       \V                     --Chuck Lane
----------------->--------*------------<--------lane@duphy4.hepnet
     (215) 895-1545      / \  Particle Physics  lane@duphy1.bitnet
FAX: (215) 895-5934        /~~~~~~~~~~~         lane@duphy4.physics.drexel.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stevenj@microsoft.com (Steven Johnson)
Subject: Shaper vs. routr table
Date: 28 Dec 92 17:32:43 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp.
Keywords: shaper router

I'm fairly ignorant in the use/purpose of a shaper.  I currently have
a nice router table with a nice PC router in it.  IS there any  reason
for me to get a shaper?  (There's a good deal on one locally, but if
I can do all the operations a shaper can on the router, then why 
spend extra money?)  

I know the shaper brings more HP to the work, but given slower feed
rates, couldn't I just do everything on the router?  (This is a
variable speed PC router, so I can slow big bits down.)


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: tgillesp@sloth.mlb.semi.harris.com (Tom Gillespie)
Subject: Changing belts on a Uni-saw ?
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 16:45:00 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

I purchased a used Rockwell (now Delta) Uni-Saw last year :-).
Works great; better than I dreamed.  But I have one problem.
Does anyone know the proper procedure of how to change the "V" belts on this
saw?  It has three.  They are hard to reach through the motor opening
below the motor, and hard to reach throuh the blade opening in the top.

I have no manual (I suppose I could order one from Delta, but I
decided to take the cheapo approach first and beg, especially since they
charged me $12.00 for a threaded knob last time !)

Thanks,

Tom Gillespie
tgillesp@mlb.semi.harris.com
From: lakia@ipact.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Table Saw surface rust
Date: 30 Dec 92 10:06:34 CDT
Distribution: usa
Organization: IPACT, Valparaiso IN

In article <1992Dec29.231820.15949@noose.ecn.purdue.edu>, echong@porpoise.ecn.purdue.edu (Edwin Chong) writes:
> A question for table saw experts:
> 
> So here's the question: Does rust on the table surface matter, or is it a
> common thing for table tops of table saws to eventually develop some
> rust? 

	The biggest problem with having rust is that when you
are doing cabinetry, the rust transfers to the wood and adds
that beautiful color that blends in with stain.  Open grain
woods like Oak will require more sanding to get the rust
color out before you stain.
	The other problem is that the rust makes the surface
rough and therefore harder to feed material, especially with
the "T". 
	I have your saw (except 10 year older most likely) and
the biggest problem I've had over the years is that I constantly
overloaded the motor overloads.  I finally changed to a AB
motor contacter with heaters that more match the Motor face
plate.  The saw is a bit under powered for ripping Oak, I 
recommend a good carbide blade that is set with the three
cutting angles and takes the most narrow cut.  I also 
haven't been all that pleased with the fence.  However, overall
for the price, the saw has performed quite well.  It has
cut a lot of wood.

	-earl

Earl Lakia			Email:  LAKIA@IPACT.COM
IPACT Inc.			Voice:  219-464-7212
260 South Campbell		FAX:    219-462-5387
Valparaiso, IN   46383
From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 00:23:54 GMT
Subject: Re: Delta contractor's saw as a router table
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

rdc@world.std.com (Ralph D Clifford) writes:

>     I am in the process of building a new router table.  I always had
>trouble with my old table getting the precision right.  After spending
>time with a good edge, I determined why--the table surface wasn't flat;
>rather, it had an upwards arc in it.
>
>     One option I am thinking about would be to mount the router in the
>table board on my Delta contractor's saw with unifence.  This would allow
>me to use both the mitre and fence in conjunction with the router.  As
>importantly, it would save the space in my shop that would be otherwise
>occupied with the router table.
>
>     Has anyone done this and, if so, do you have any recommendations for
>or against?
------------

   Yep.  I did it.  Works good.  Get Patrick Spielman's book "Router Jigs
   and Techniques" and read about his "ultimate router table"  I used the
   layout for his inser plate for mine.   It tells you what materials are
   safe.

   The only mistake I made was placing the router next to the saw.  If I were
   to do it again I would place it as far to the right as possible.  
   The reason is that I have since added a sliding table to my saw, on the
   left side, but movable to the right side.   If my router hole were on
   the far right, I could use move my sliding table to the other side and
   use it with the router table.   At christmas I am going to make a new
   insert for my unifence and put the hole on the other end.

   Also:  Get some allen screws and a matching tap and drill and tap 4 holes
   in your insert plate, and then screw the allen scres into those holes.
   Use them to level the plat in the table, otherwise your work will hang
   up on the edges constantly.  Don't bother with shimming, you will just
   be wasting your time.
   
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bds@mbunix.mitre.org (Smith)
Subject: Re: routers vs plunge routers
Organization: The MITRE Corporation, Bedford, MA
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1992 13:31:46 GMT

In article <92363.160750WWARD@MAINE.MAINE.EDU> <WWARD@MAINE.MAINE.EDU> writes:
>Would someone please tell me the difference between a router
>and a plunge router? Will a plunge router do things that
>a regular router won't? Thanks for your help.
>Wally

Both a standard router and a plunge router have motors (usually
universal motors between 5 and 15 amps) that are mounted vertically in
a base.  The router bits are attached directly to the motor shaft via
a collet.  

The major difference between the two is that in a standard router the
bit is always protruding from the bottom by the amount you set, while
in a plunge router the motor (and bit) can be retracted so that the
motor can be running with the router in position and yet the bit is
not cutting into the wood.  

This has 1 major advantage--when starting a cut in the middle of a
board, you don't have to put the router, with the bit turning, on
edge and then swing it down into the cut (usually resulting in a
sloppy start of the cut).  The bit in a plunge router can be directly
lowered into the cut.

Plunge routers have become the be all and end all of routers.
Everyone feels they have to have one.  They do have drawbacks, though.
Probably the biggest is that it is not as easy to make precise depth
adjustments, especially when mounted under a table.  To this end,
people have resorted to accessories like special knobs that make it a
little easier to make the adjustments (which are both against the
weight of the motor and the spring tension).  The old fixed-base
routers are much better for this.  The other drawback I've run into is
that, when using a plunge router in a dovetail jig using a collar
around the bit, since some dovetail bits are larger than the collar,
you have to be very careful not to retract the bit or you may damage
it on the collar.

They are both good tools, but each has good and bad points.

Barry

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ericb@microsoft.com (Eric Brown)
Subject: Re: advice on laminate work
Date: 30 Dec 92 17:53:51 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp
Distribution: rec

If you want to cut your top with a circular saw or a jig saw (i.e. a saw
whose teeth cut on the up stroke), then make sure you flip the top over
and cut from the back side.  Otherwise you will end up with badly chipped
laminate.

-- 
    Eric

{sun | uw-beaver | apple | uunet | fluke}!microsoft!ericb 
internet: ericb@microsoft.com        Compuserve: 76701,55
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking