HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: clarke@watson.ibm.com (Ed Clarke)
Subject: Re: computer indexes to woodworking mags
Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1992 17:30:12 GMT
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center

In article <1992Nov9.014229.14242@wuecl.wustl.edu>, dls@wuee1.wustl.edu (Donald L. Snyder) writes:
|>   1.  The PC Index
|>       Meredith Associates
|>       P.O. Box 792
|>       Westford, MA 01886-0792
|>       tel: 1-800-392-0255
|>       cost: $34.95
|>       coverage: see the ad, page 43, FW Dec 92

|> I'd be interested in comments on these various sources.  I haven't tried
|> any of them.

I purchased this package last year.  It works on MS/DOS in full screen mode.
The "PC Index" is really "PC Index to Fine Woodworking", there is also a
version (same price) for "Fine Homebuilding".  They are working on a version
for "Fine Gardening".   

You can update the database yourself or purchase an upgrade for $14.95.  I'm 
going to upgrade my copy after the first of the year.  The FWW version also 
includes all the "Fine Woodworking On" books.  You can search on keyword, 
author etc.  I seem to remember that besides the title of the article, it
cross references the Q&A articles and back cover too.

The $34.95 is misleading.  After you buy this sucker, you get an irresistable
urge to go out and buy a full set of FWW.  I bought mine from some guy in
British Columbia!  The product is worth the money (IMHO).

Ed Clarke
clarke@watson.ibm.com
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 6 Nov 1992 09:07:43 -0600
From:         Jeff Roberts <JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Help! Table Saw Top is damaged!

On Thu, 5 Nov 1992 15:23:46 -0600 Jeffrey D Donne said:
><text deleted>
>   Can anyone suggest first, how to remove the rust, and secondly,
>the preferred method for preserving the top after it is clean.
>I seem to recall some folks suggesting standard car wax for the
>table top, others suggest spraying it with WD-40.
>
>I've used naval jelly (Home Depot) to clean some VERY rusty golf
>clubs and was very impressed.  I'd certainly test a small spot before
 smearing it all over your saw.  A problem with the jelly is that you
 have to use water to get the jelly off the surface, I would think that
 this could be done if care is taken and you work with a small area.


 Jeff Roberts JROBERTS@UTDALLAS
From: PH500000@BROWNVM.BITNET (Bob Pelcovits)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Circular Saw recommendations
Date: 10 Nov 92 14:44:08 GMT
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-Acknowledge-To: <PH500000@BROWNVM>

Could you describe the Exac-t-cut system in some detail? Thanks,


                                  --Bob Pelcovits
                                  Robert_Pelcovits@brown.edu
                                  (401)-863-1432
                                  FAX (401)-863-1157
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: holtt@OCE.ORST.EDU (Tim Holt)
Subject: Looking for tape of Toshio Odate on the Woodrights Shop!
Organization: College of Oceanography, Oregon State Univ
Distribution: or
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 17:35:55 GMT

Ack!  The day I decide to not watch Roy, he has Toshio Odate as a guest!
I would die for a tape of the show!  Did anyone out there tape it by
chance?  I don't think they sell tapes of shows, but correct me if I'm
wrong.  My wife watched it and keeps telling me tidbits that are driving
me nuts.

              |   ||        Tim Holt / Marine Technician / RV Wecoma
+--==o_____+-/|--+||        College of Oceanography / Oregon State
_____|  R/V WECOMA  ~-----/ Corvallis, OR USA, 97331-5503	(503)737-4447
+------------------------'  holtt@oce.orst.edu	
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: millios@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (william.l.millios)
Subject: Re: Skeptical about biscuit joiners
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 18:09:36 GMT

Speaking of biscuit joiners and strength, did anybody else catch
Norm last weekend using his biscuit jointer to attach the little
ledges onto his dovecote?  Boy, that looked like asking for
trouble to me.

I also thought the holes for the birds to get in and out looked
a little small.  Must be because I am used to city doves, or
pigeons?  One of our local street cleaners (the birds) would
get royally stuck trying to get into his dovecote.

I did kind of think the project was pretty useless.  That big,
and no benefit - unless you're going to really "harvest" the
doves, that is.

Not a good show. 

Next week looks good, tho - ladder back Shaker chair.

Bill
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: chris@xerox.com (Chris Heiny 73186 - SETA)
Subject: Re: Homebrew Dust Collector
Reply-To: chris@xerox.com
Organization: Xerox Corporation, Webster NY
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 14:42:55 GMT

Chris Lewis remarks (re: the Workshop Book's attic fan & furnace filter 
homebrew dust remover): "It's really only suitable for *large* shops"

If you select the right sized fan, such a set up can be 'sized' to smaller 
or larger shops.  F'rinstance, the area of my basement where the shop is 
roughly 600 square feet with 7 foot ceilings, or 4200 cubic feet.  A small 
800 cfm attic fan (rather than the monster used in the WSB, what was it, 
2000 cfm?) in a furnace filter box setup keeps the air pretty clear without 
causing too much draft.  If you're in a really tight area, you could even
make one with a few muffin fans.

						Chris

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: poole@admin.usask.ca (Chris Poole)
Subject: RE: Woodworking humor
Reply-To: poole@admin.usask.ca
Organization: University of Saskatchewan
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 20:04:17 GMT

In article <TOML.92Nov8143934@nightowl.xrxedds.UUCP>, toml@xrxedds.UUCP (Tom
Love) writes:
|> i saved a few of the (imho) better ones... here they are:
|> 
|> Measure twice, cut once.
|> 
|> Every tool is a hammer - except a chisel;  it's a screwdriver.

I worked with a fellow once that believed that a hammer was to be used for
inserting screws, the screwdriver was only there if you needed to remove them.

BTW. He never did much finishing work. ;)

Chris Poole
Poole@Admin.USask.CA
From: UKA004@UKCC.UKY.EDU (Bramel, Jim)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Lathe recommendations?
Date: 11 Nov 92 13:33:08 GMT
Article-I.D.: IPFWVM.WOODWORK%92111108444550
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-Acknowledge-To: <UKA004@ukcc.uky.edu>
              11 Nov 1992 00:09:38 GMT from <markw@HPCSS01.CUP.HP.COM>

I have an AMT catalog that lists a Light Industrial Long Bed Wood Lathe
for $104.  At the time of the catalog it was on special for $94.50.  It
55" overall, 41" between centers, ball bearing live center on the tail-
stock, heavy-walled 1-1/4"diameter bed tubes, 3/4"diameter headstock
spindle and heavy-duty lubricated-for-life ball bearings.  I own their
"Industrial 6"Jointer-Planer" which I have been happy with.  I do not
know anything about their other products.
From: john@cirrus.com (John Wishneusky)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Lathe recommendations?
Date: 13 Nov 92 14:54:59 GMT
Organization: Cirrus Logic Inc.  Fremont, California

In article <WOODWORK%92111108444550@IPFWVM.BITNET> UKA004@UKCC.UKY.EDU (Bramel, Jim) writes:
>I have an AMT catalog that lists a Light Industrial Long Bed Wood Lathe
>for $104.  At the time of the catalog it was on special for $94.50.  It
>55" overall, 41" between centers, ball bearing live center on the tail-
>stock, heavy-walled 1-1/4"diameter bed tubes, 3/4"diameter headstock
>spindle and heavy-duty lubricated-for-life ball bearings.  I own their
>"Industrial 6"Jointer-Planer" which I have been happy with.  I do not
>know anything about their other products.

I'll just add that I had one of these lathes years ago.  It has its
limitations, but it's an economical way to start woodturning.  I even
took an adult education welding class partly to make lathe accessories
economically.  (The other part was to make clamps and other tooling
economically :-)  I sold it after I bought my first (used) Shopsmith.
The Shopsmith's a much nicer wood lathe in many respects, but still
not what I want.  I still have the Mark VII successor to that first
Mark V and it's still my woodlathe for now.  However, in my todo queue
I have an 11" swing South Bend metal lathe that needs a motor.  I plan
to get it operational and eventually block up the headstock and
tailstock and make it my primary wood lathe.  (I already have a well
tooled Logan metal lathe.)  The South Bend was an inexpensive part of
a large used machinist tool hoard I bought a while back.

John
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: gcohen@mailer.cc.fsu.edu (Gregory Cohen)
Subject: Re: Problem with router
Organization: Florida State University
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 92 05:47:47 GMT

In article <1992Nov9.181100.10753@slustl.slu.edu> guy@slustl.slu.edu (Guy Smith) writes:
>In article <Bx9JGp.3yx@world.std.com> rdc@world.std.com (Ralph D Clifford) writes:
>>dovetails in oak.  When I cut the tails, the bit is slowly pulled up in the
>>router.  Needless to say, this screws things up royally.
>>
>>     The router is a Sears (Yes, I know this is probably the problem.  Forgive
>>me, I bought the tool before I knew any better :-) 1-1/2 HP router with a 1/4"
>>collet.  The bit is carbide tipped and is sharp.
>
>Is the bit slipping in the collet or the whole motor moving up in the base.
>I had the latter problem with a Sears router.
>My solution was to junk the Sears router and buy a Porter Cable. A short-term
>kludge was to use my Channel Lock pliers to really crank down on the
>locking screw.

I have this same problem, It was the bit slipping.  I got a good 9/16" wrench.
(at least I think it was 9/16") and use a mallet to tap the loking screw tight.
Then to make things better I have started to use a new dovetale jig for my
table saw and band saw, and I am getting wonderful results.

-Greg
gcohen@mailer.acns.fsu.edu
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Beware of the Fnord or it will eat you.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: waligora@hsi.com (Robert Waligora)
Subject: Wobble type dado blade.
Organization: 3M Health Information Systems, Wallingford CT
Distribution: rec.woodworking
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 14:30:32 GMT

A friend of mine suggested that the wobble type dado blades might ruin
my table saw. He claims that the back and forth motion might bend the
arbor or cause other excessive wear. Is there any truth to this?
-- 
+---->----> Robert Waligora ---->---->---->---->---->---->---->---->---->---->
| Yes it's "WALLY MAN", He dices,                  waligora@hsi.com
| He slices, He even makes julienne fries.    {uunet, yale}!hsi!waligora
|                          - from WHAMMCO           (203)949-6481
From: daved@convex.com (David Dorfman)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Cherry Aging
Keywords: aging, cherry,
Date: 6 Nov 92 18:44:56 GMT
Article-I.D.: convex.daved.721075496
Organization: CONVEX Computer Corporation, Richardson, Tx., USA
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by a user at CONVEX Computer
              Corp. The opinions expressed are those of the user and
              not necessarily those of CONVEX.

In <1992Nov3.181443.5134@afit.af.mil> fkilpatr@afit.af.mil (Freeman A. Kilpatrick) writes:

>This query is for anyone who has experience working with Cherry.  I've
>heard that cherry will develop the characteristic red color over time.
>What I am curious about is how long does this usually take?  Also, most
>sources say the wood changes color on exposure to sunlight (I assume
>UV), but how does this happen indoors?  I know UV won't go through
>glass, and many rooms don't have significant sunlight at all.  Would it
>help to leave something out on the porch, in direct sunlight, or would
>this be overkill?

>Thanks for your help.

Patiance, all things come to those who wait, unless they die first.

My feeble memory says that six motnths direct exposure should give you some
visale coloration. I have cherry bookshelves that show a strong difference 
between the exposed wood and the wood covered by books. The bookshelves were six
months old when I noticed this feature.


Dave
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Thu, 5 Nov 1992 20:18:44 EST
From:         FABY000 <FABY@NMUMUS.BITNET>
Subject:      UV and glass (was Re: Cherry Aging)

I have done some experiments in chemical synthesis using ultraviolet
light from a high intensity source.  In those cases I used quartz glass
in order to increase the level of uv light that entered the reaction
vessel.  I suspect if one looked at the literature on penetration of
various types of glass by uv light it would vary depending on the
composition of the glass in addition to thickness and shape.  Anyway, in
my opinion some uv will penetrate any glass.  Also, there are various
energies of the uv and which ones will penetrate glass will vary.  The
color change of cherry may be more related to oxidation that li ght
exposure.  The difference in color change when a section of cherry is
covered could be due to protection from light or from air oxidation.
Even after a finish is applied oxygen can penetrate the finish.Anyway, I
agree with other netters who stated that commercial cherry furniture is
stained to give it the dark color.  I don't like it that dark myself.
My preference for finishing cherry is to apply a very light Minwax
stain(1 part cherry+2 parts clear) followed by several coats of a tung
oil finish.  I have never had a splotchy finish with cherry.  I apply
the finish within a day or two of final scraping and planing.  I select
boards that a free of sapwood.  Within the last several months one of
the woodworking magazines had a news item about a company that has
developed a method that uniformly colors cherry during the drying
process, thus utilizing all of the wood including sapwood.
Roger Barry
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 9 Nov 1992 12:30:28 EST
From:         Jim Morgan <JMORGAN@BROWNVM.BITNET>
Subject:      Starting pin for router table

I would like to add a starting pin to my router table, but, being unfamiliar
with shapers, I'm not quite certain how to proceed.  I could use help
with the following questions:

      How far away from the bit should the starting pin be located?
      How large should the starting pin be?
      Should I use two pins (i.e., a 'finishing' pin as well), or just one?

Advice on related topics would be helpful, too.

Thanks

Jim Morgan
Brown University
From: JMORGAN@BROWNVM.BITNET (Jim Morgan)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Router Table Inquiries
Date: 5 Nov 92 19:50:36 GMT
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU

The great advantage of plunge routers is that you can safely and easily
begin and end cuts in the middles of boards - e.g., fully housed
mortises.  Most of the time, though, I have my plunge router mounted in
my router table, where the plunge feature really goes to waste.  I've
been thinking about constructing a treadle mechanism that would allow me
to raise the bit up into a board on the table.  This would have to have
some sort of rachet to lock the bit at full height, as well as a
provision for releasing the rachet so that the bit could be lowered at
the end of the cut.  Has anyone out there built anything like this?  Any
ideas?

BTW, the current FWW issue has an ad for a new Incra toy - a
micrometer fence adjuster.  Has anyone seen or used this, or seen a
price?

Jim Morgan
Brown University
From: IO20081@MAINE.MAINE.EDU (robert eric beckwith)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Elu router ?'s
Date: 11 Nov 92 00:05:07 GMT
Organization: University of Maine System

I'm going to get a router real soon (next couple of weeks).
I'm seriously considering the Elu 3338.
  I need a good plunge router, but I also plan to use it on
templates (ie. Keller dovetail) and for roundover.
The questions I have are :
  will it lock in place once it's plunged ?
  can you lock it to a hight and use it like a non-plunge router ?
I haven't been able to get my hands on one to try it out, and
from the reviews I have read FWW, It looks like a fine router.
any input would be great...
    robert...    IO20081@maine.maine.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bamford@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (harold.e.bamford)
Subject: Re: Problem with router
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 22:24:40 GMT
Summary: Replace the collet insert

In article <Bx9JGp.3yx@world.std.com> rdc@world.std.com (Ralph D Clifford) writes:
>     I am having a problem with my router.  It is not holding the bit firmly
>enough.  I am using an almost new 1/2" dovetail bit to make half-blind
>dovetails in oak.  When I cut the tails, the bit is slowly pulled up in the
>router.  Needless to say, this screws things up royally.

Assuming you have checked the obvious things (no dirt in the chuck,
tightened the chuck, etc), then the most likely thing is the collet
insert.  This is the hollow piece of metal that fits inside the chuck
and around the shaft of the bit.  It is intended to hold the bit by
binding the metal.  If this is overheated or tightened too hard then it
looses its grip.

Remember, tighten the router firmly, but don't overtighten.  Gritting
your teeth or painful grunts are sure signs of overtightening.   :-)

Good luck.

-- Harold Bamford
#include <std.disclaimers>
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-VMS-To: IN%"WOODWORK%IPFWVM.BITNET@pucc.Princeton.EDU"
MIME-version: 1.0
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Thu, 12 Nov 1992 08:12:42 -0800
From:         RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM
Subject:      Re: problem with planer

IT SOUNDS LIKE YOUR KNIVES ARE PROPERLY ADJUSTED TO YOUR SPINDEL; BUT,
THE SPINDEL IS OUT OF ALIGNMENT WITH THE TABLE.

I DON'T KNOW WHAT THE FIX IS; BUT, A CALL TO DELTA COULDN'T HURT.

PLEASE POST YOUR RESULTS.

                        RON TYE (ALL OPINIONS MY OWN)
From: jaynes@ksr.com (Steve Jaynes)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Skeptical about biscuit joiners
Summary: Rebutal about Biscuit Joints
Date: 6 Nov 92 21:31:56 EST
Expires: 30 Dec 92 00:00:00 EST
Distribution: na
Organization: Kendall Square Research Corp.

I would like to comment regarding the thread regarding the strength of biscuit joints.  If used properly, the biscuit, like dowels, adds very little structural strength to the joint.  Rather, it serves to align the surfaces during gluing.  The GLUED JOINT SURFACE is what provides the strength for the joint.  The surfaces must be prepared properly as with all glued joints, be they plain, doweled, or biscuited (don't you just love the way new verbs can be made in english?).

I have been using biscuit joints on all types of projects, including large rosking horses for several years.  Not a structural failure in the bunch!

Hope this helps.

Regards,
Steve Jaynes   (These opinions could only be mine.  Nobody else would dare to claim them.)
From: paul.burnett@pcs.sj.ca.us (Paul Burnett)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: UV and glass (was Re: Cherry Aging)
Date: 5 Nov 92 17:44:00 GMT
Reply-To: paul.burnett@pcs.sj.ca.us (Paul Burnett)
Organization: PCS-BBS - San Jose, CA - 408-270-4085

TO: owens@gargoyle.uchicago.edu (Christopher Owens)


CO>> UV will go through glass unless the glass has a coating to reflect UV.  No
  >> clear glass will pass UV.

CO>I've always been amused that the people who want to sell you special
  >window glass say "Ordinary window glass doesn't pass wonderful,
  >health-giving UV, so buy our fancy glass and start reaping the
  >benefits of UV," while the folks who want to sell you fancy glass for
  >your picture frames say "Ordinary window glass passes damaging UV, so
  >buy our fancy glass and start protecting your valuable artwork from
  >this menace."

CO> Anybody know what gives?

Yeah - another triumph of sales over marketing, and of both over common
sense.

Normal glass will pass only longwave UV; pyrex and quartz will pass
shorter wavelength UV.

---
 . QMPro 1.0 07-2042 . ...from San Jose, CA
From: markw@hpcss01.cup.hp.com (Mark Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Lathe recommendations?
Date: 11 Nov 92 00:09:38 GMT
Organization: Hewlett Packard, Cupertino

Below $200, you are limited to a used lathe which may or may not be good,
and several Taiwan lathes like the Grizzly bottom of the line.  I looked
at the Taiwan clone in a local tool dealer's shop -- it looked like the
Grizzly.  It seemed OK, four speeds, 3/4 HP motor, dead center (not
ideal), puny bearings, more than I really expected for $200.  You will have to
spend $500 for much better, and so it might make sense as a first lathe.
From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 16:03:37 GMT
Subject: Re: general purpose router recommendations?
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds) writes:
>
>The 5680 is rated at 12 amps. Most of the "3 HP" routers are rated at
>15 amps. For instance, the Elu 3338 is also a 12 amp router, rated at
>2.25 HP. It has been argued that EVS (electronic speed control) gives
>you more effective horsepower, and that may correspond to the additional
>1/4 HP.
>
>Of course, if you consider 12 amps to be 2 HP, then it would take 18 amps
>to produce 3 HP (these things are linear, aren't they?).
>
>Also, ITC (International Tool Corp) sells the Milwaukee 5680 for $199.
>However, it's a single speed (26,000 rmp - quite high) router, which
                 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>can be a disadvantage in some situations.


There's the rub.   That is why I and everyone else seem to be bying 
plunge routers like the Bosch 1615EVS.

You just CAN'T do panel raising with table mounted router unless it has
a variable speed control.   You can buy one after-market, but I have used
one of those, and it sucks compared to the EVS system on my Bosch 1615.
The minor problem of the smaller hole in the base seems to be a setback at 
first, but in fact is NO setback at all.

I haven't yet found a non-plunge 15 amp router with built in EVS and
speed control for under $300.00.    So I am sticking to my Bosch.