HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: giand@opencon.com (Deepak S. Gianchandani)
Subject: Re: Vacuum recommendations sought
Followup-To: misc.consumers.house
Keywords: vacuum house household recommendations wanted help
Cc: giand@opencon.com
Organization: OpenCon Systems, Inc.
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1992 19:52:52 GMT

In article <1d12n0INNls6@rave.larc.nasa.gov> kludge@grissom.larc.nasa.gov (Scott Dorsey) writes:
>In article <1992Nov01.023719.4062%jim.uucp@wupost.wustl.edu> mike%jim.uucp@wupost.wustl.edu (Mike S.) writes:
>>
>>The good 'ol vacuum cleaner burned out, so I need reco's for a
>>new one--forwarning of anything to watch out for (brands, etc),
>>things to look for, etc.
>
>I seriously recommend buying a rebuilt Kirby; there are a lot of them out
>there and they aren't too terribly expensive.  They work amazingly well and
>are impossible to kill; I bought a 1947 model from an appliance rebuilder
>about twenty years ago and it's still going quite well.  My parents bought
>a 1988 model brand new after seeing how well my old machine lasted, and they
>have had no problem with it in the last four years.  If only they didn't
>perpetually borrow my accessories....
>--scott


	I agree, I bought a Electrolux Upright, and the Kirby.  The
Electorlux simple upright runs about $300.00 and a brand NEW Generation III 
Kirby runs around $1000.00  (give or take $100.00 depending on how well you
can bargin).  Anyway, the Electorlux is a good machine, but the Kirby
is a much much better machine.  The kirby also comes with a carpet/floor
shampooer attachment, so you get too machines in one, plus it has
other attachments.  The Kirby people say it's 9 machines in one ( you
will probably use 4 of those).  We have a white carpeting in the
living room and the stairs leading up to the bedrooms, so the area
gets dirty.  Besides anything show up on it. I had bought the Electrolux
last year, and now was in the market for a Carpet Shampooer.  The
reason I choose the Kirby, was that one vaccumes a whole lot more
than shampooing the carpets (especially since one has children around
the house and the carptes take a few hours to dry). So if one can pick
up majority of the dirt in vacumming, shampooing then will do the
reset. Also Krby had a floor brush cleaner (same attachment for the
carpet cleaner) which I needed for the cleaning my Kitchen Floors. (It
did an excellent job on the kitchen floor).  Besides, Electorlux sell a 
seprate machine which does floors and carpets the sampoo which was
selling for $500.00 or so.

-- 
____________________   .    .   __         .       | Deepak S. Gianchandani
\___________________|) .____.--"--"---._____       | E-mail:giand@opencon.com
     .      ||       /_____/  NCC_1701  __/ .  . . | 
.       .   ||      /--/--._________.----/   .     | To Boldly Go Where 
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: mja@philabs.philips.com (Michael Amato)
Subject: Re: Central Vacs
Originator: mja@hercules
Reply-To: mja@philabs.philips.com (Michael Amato)
Organization: Philips Laboratories, Briarcliff, NY 10510
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 15:08:58 GMT


In article <2AF854F1.4F6D@tct.com>, jeff@tct.com (Jeff Witzer) writes:
|> I'm going through the final selection of options for a new house and was
|> wondering what features anyone would recommend, specifically those things
|> you may be kicking yourself about not including when you bought/built...
|> 
|> The one that a friend suggested was a central vac.  The benifits he listed
|> were:
|> 	- *MUCH* improved suction/cleaning ability

This is true (IMHO). you just cannot get as much suction in a portable as in
a central vacuum.

|> 	- more mobility since you only have the hose & attachments to drag

This is somewhat true. The hose for the central vac is 30' long. this is done
to minimize the number of outlet you need. Some planning and practice is 
required when working with a hose this long.

|> 	- quieter since the motor is out in the garage

Very much quieter. Also you don't have the exhaust of the vac stirring up the 
air (as most canister vacs do).

|> 	- larger capacity filter so you have to empty it less often

And some don't even require a filter. I'm looking at Vacu-Flo with cyclonic
dirt separation. Plan for it now. The top of the line Vacu-Flo reqires a 
single phase (110V) 30A outlet, (I don't know why they don't make this 220V)
so a dedicated electrical line will have to be run.

|> 
|> What do you think?  How do the prices stack up compared to good vacs?  I
|> currently own a (well-used) Hoover upright, but the new house will be 40% 
|> tile and polyurethaned wood which requires sweeping or hose attachments 
|> (uprights have hose adapters but hardly any suction makes it to the 
|> attachments).
|> 
|> Thanks, 
|> 
|> jeff
-- 
+-----------------------------------------------------------------+
| Michael Amato  DoD#0639 | "If pro is the opposite of con,       |
| mja@philabs.philips.com | then what is Congress"? - Will Rogers |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------+
From: luwsm@lehigh.edu (Wayne S. Mery)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Water filters?
Date: 9 Nov 92 15:36:43 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Lehigh University Computing Center

In article <1992Nov6.202722.9344@miki.pictel.com> wpns@miki.pictel.com (Willie Smith) writes:
>From: wpns@miki.pictel.com (Willie Smith)
>I've got a lot of iron in my water, and and engineer at the EPA
>reccomended a particulate filter to get the big chunks out :+) The
> ...
>ones (clear housing, integral shutoff valves), but I don't know if the
>cost ($45 ea) is reasonable, and I'm a little concerned about the line
>size (our house has a 1" main and the filters take a 3/4" maximum
>pipe).  What's good or bad about Sears or anyone else?  I'm thinking
>about a particulate (sediment) filter followed by a carbon filter, is

I have the same problem with iron particles.  I've got one run-of-the-
mill unit with 3/4" feed and particle filter (wound fibers).  It is 
marginally adequate with up to 2 faucets running.  I tried carbon filters 
but they clog up much too fast, i.e a couple weeks.  That runs into mucho
bucks.  

Too much iron still gets through with just the sediment.  This is a 
problem with things like the clothes washer and getting discolored 
clothing.  So I plan to add a carbon filter in series after the sediment 
filter. 

>like two particulate filters in parallel for lower pressure drop 
No experience here.  Has anyone found that parallel is worthwhile?

> and ability to change elements without shutting off the flow of water 
A non-issue when you can change the filter in under 10 minutes.

Wayne Mery
wsm0@lehigh.edu
From: olney@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Doug Olney)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: better mouse trap needed
Date: 9 Nov 92 19:27:11 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Rosa, CA


We got a mouse Sunday morning with half of a tootsie roll glommed onto
the trigger of a conventional trap.  This mouse had gleefully licked the
peanut butter off of several traps.


						Doug Olney
						Santa Rosa,CA
From: fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com (Fred Christiansen)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Locksets - brand recommendations
Date: 12 Nov 92 17:39:40 GMT
Organization: Motorola Computer Group, RT Software

In article <BxHFoF.HxF@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu> berger@atropa (Mike Berger) writes:
>I do a little lock work too.  I've never seen a decently made kwikset
>product.  They're at the bottom of my list.  I haven't seen a new Weiser
>in several years.  Are they out of business?

Weiser locksets are definitely around this area.  Moreover, according
to Builder magazine ads, they are part of Masco Corp, who also own
Delta faucets, Merrilat and Kraft Maid cabinets, and Eagle windows (to
name just a few of the dozens).
-- 
Fred Christiansen, Motorola, 2900 S Diablo Way, Tempe, AZ 85282  "Canajun, eh?"
fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com  ||  uunet!phx.mcd.mot.com!fredch  ||  +1 602-438-3464
  ".. I have set before you Life and Death, blessing and cursing;  therefore
      choose Life, that both you and your children may live"  Deut 30:19
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis)
Subject: "Full Spectrum" Lighting
Organization: OSF Research Institute
Date: 10 Nov 92 21:37:49

In article <1992Nov6.191139.26139@phx.mcd.mot.com> fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com (Fred Christiansen) writes:

   Can anyone give me source(s) for full spectrum lights, either
   incandescent or fluorescent (preferably both)?

"Full spectrum" is a marketing term for certain fluorescent bulbs
which produce more ultraviolet than usual fluorescent bulbs.  This is
apparently desirable for terrariums containing reptiles.  Until a few
years ago, the main brand (Vita-Lite) claimed health benefits for
humans, but the FDA stopped them.  Vita-Lite continues to use
misleading statements along these lines in its advertising.

Although "full spectrum" is not worthwhile, what IS worthwhile is high
color-quality fluorescents.  All manufacturers now make these, and
they go under various names.

If you use fluorescent lights in domestic applications, you should
always use the high-quality phosphors.  I think they're worthwhile in
offices, too.  You can choose bulbs both for color temperature (to be
technical, "correlated" color temperature, since only black bodies
have color temperatures) and color quality (CRI, measured on a scale
of 100).

    Very Cool/blue: C50 (5000 K), C75 (7500 K) excellent quality,
          moderate efficiency.  Use to simulate natural daylight.
          Effect can be overdone.  At low intensities, looks spooky.
          I believe
	  Vita-lite has a color temperature of 5000 K.
    Cool: (4100 K)
          CWX Cool White Deluxe    excellent quality, moderate efficiency.
          SPX41 Specification/Designer excellent quality, high efficiency;
                slight tendency to exaggerate colors.  Expensive ($8).
          SP41  Good quality, high efficiency.
	  This is the usual color temperature found in offices.  In
	  homes, it tends to look out of place, except in kitchens.
    Medium: (3500 K)
          SPX35, SP35  like the other SP/X's
    Warm/pinkish: (3000 K)
	  WWX Warm White Deluxe very good quality, moderate efficiency
          SPX30, SP30 like the other SP/X's
    Very Warm/reddish (2700 K, same color as incandescent): IF
          (Incandescent Fluorescent) This has very good
          specifications, but I've never actually seen it.  SP27
          available in a limited number of shapes.
	  The "compact fluorescents" that screw into regular sockets
	  are all (almost all?) SP27 color.  I'm not particularly fond
          of it -- it's actually redder than halogen light.

Colors to avoid: CW (Cool White), WW (Warm White a.k.a. Soft White),
    and especially LW (Light White).
Note that <<all>> fluorescents are much more efficient than
incandescents.  I wouldn't worry about relative efficiency except in
fixtures you leave on all day every day.  Even on a bulb left burning
24 hours a day all year, the difference between a high-efficiency and
middle-efficiency fluorescent comes to only about $10 per year.

The SP and SPX series are GE designations; other manufacturers have
exact equivalents (Philips Ultralume, etc.).
From: goddard+@cs.cmu.edu (Nigel Goddard)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Surge protection - how does it work?
Date: 11 Nov 92 21:49:25 GMT
Article-I.D.: cs.BxKnAD.Its.2
Distribution: usa
Organization: School of Computer Science, Carnegie Mellon


I have a surge protected outlet in my study.  I took it apart
to figure out how it works.  I had assumed it was like GFI but
I find it isn't (it doesn't have line and load).  GFI works by
breaking the circuit if current differences are detected.  I
think surge protection works by shorting the circuit if a voltage
spike occurs.  Can anyone confirm this or explain how surge protection
works?  If my idea is correct, then it would seem that any other
outlet on the same circuit as my surge protected outlet is also
surge protected.  Is this correct?

Nigel

-- 
Nigel Goddard
goddard@b.gp.cs.cmu.edu
From: pjh@mccc.edu (Pete Holsberg)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Re: How to tell a REAL buyer's agent
Date: 6 Nov 92 17:03:10 GMT
Organization: The College On The Other Side Of Route One

In article <76310004@teecs.UUCP> to@teecs.UUCP (Norman To) writes:
=When I was looking for a house 2 years ago, my agent actually told me
=he was on the seller's side, because it is the seller who eventually
=paid the commissions.  I was only indirectly paying.
=
=The selling agent always pushes the house owner to lower the price and
=the buying agent always pushes me to increase the offer.

I have to post again because the point is just not getting across.

Buyer's Agent vs. Buyer Agency
------------------------------

A number of people have ported asking about the real estate agent who
works with them when they are looking to purchase a home. They have
referred to that person as the "buyer's agent." That is not the correct
terminology; that person who works with the buyer is called the "SELLING
AGENT." The person who meets with the selling agent and interfaces
directly with the owner of the property is called the "LISTING AGENT."

BOTH OF THESE AGENTS HAVE A LEGAL RESPONISIBILITY TO ACT IN THE BEST
INTEREST OF THE SELLER OF THE PROPERTY.

In many states (CA is big on this, I say to the poster whose relative is
a realtor with Coldwell Bankers in CA ;-)), there is a new concept
called "buyer agency" or "buyer brokerage."

BA arose in the 80s when many states decided that agents must disclose
to buyers that they legally represent sellers. Buyers began to ask, "Who
represents me?" So many real estate companies began to practice BA, in
which an agent legally represents the buyer rather than the seller. This
means that the BA becomes the buyer's advocate, advisor, informant, and
negotiator.

At my wife's real estate company, prospective purchasers are given the
opportunity to select buyers agency or to work in the traditional model.
Their handout points out that the traditional model has both agents with
"fiduciary duties ... owed to their client (the seller)" and that a
buyers agent will:
	1. disclose all information that will enhance the buyer's bargaining
		position.
	2. keep confidential all information that may hurt the buyer;s
		bargaining position.
	3. work for the benefit of the buyer
	4. advise and negotiate on behalf of the buyer.

HOW DO YOU IDENTIFY A BUYERS AGENT?
	At your first meeting with an agent, ask "Can you represent me
as a buyers agent?" If the answer is "yes", both of you should sign a
contract to that effect. If the agent looks at you with a blank stare,
you know that you are NOT dealing with a buyer's agent but with a
SELLING AGENT, a person who represents the seller and will not act in
accordance with the list above.
	There is no requirement, at this point, that you pay your
buyer's agent. The only thing you need is a contract that spells out that
this agent's fiduciary responsibility is to YOU.

====

Hope that helps. BA is not widespread but it is growing.


Pete
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: trapper@cbnewsj.cb.att.com (dominic.annunziata)
Subject: Re: Gas logs in your fireplace
Organization: AT&T
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 12:39:11 GMT


I was once told that galvanized pipe is not used for gas because the 
galvanizing process allows for small "chips" to break loose from the inside
of the pipe and can clog the small orifices of gas appliances.  
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: hjack@well.sf.ca.us (Henry Jackson)
Subject: Mac Architrion Architectural Drawing Package $300
Organization: Whole Earth 'Lectronic Link
Distribution: ba
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1992 14:39:00 GMT


MacArchitrion v4.0 for sale  -  Architectural drawing package.

- 3D, 2D, Quantifier integrated package.

- 3D module is more than a basic modeling package.  Walls are created as
blocks, not extruded from 2D entities.

- 2D module is a comprehensive drafting package.  Supporting
dimensioning, block pattern fills, etc.  (everything you'd expect from a Mac
drawing package)

- Quantifier module allows material takeoffs.


This is a professional package that introduced architectural modeling to
the Mac platform.  I bought it in 1989 just about the time that my
architectural career transitioned from drawing to managing.  I never used
it as much as I'd hoped I would and basically have kept it on my hard disk
with hopes that "Some Day......."

Well, I need disk space, and money,  so I'm selling off what I don't
absolutely need.

The program originally sold for $3,000 and has had several upgrades that
introduced color, auto shading, etc.  I suppose you can use this program to
qualify for the upgrade if you want to.  Complete with all documentation.

PRICE:   $300.  OBO

Email hjack@well.sf.ca.us or call (415) 857-1034  (Palo Alto)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: daniels_d@apollo.HP.COM (Dave daniels)
Subject: 3d software for home 
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 20:11:30 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Chelmsford, MA

 Hi,

 I saw an add on T.V this morning for a 3D s/w package
that you can use to help you visualize any home inprovements
you may want to do. The cost of the package was about $75.
has anyone tried this package? Do you know where it can be 
purchased ?

any help would be appreciated.

regards.
Dave Daniels

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis)
Subject: Re: Getting Ready to Sell House: How to Make it Most Appealing?
Organization: OSF Research Institute
	<1992Nov11.180523.20266@porthos.cc.bellcore.com>
	<1992Nov11.192436.11903@i88.isc.com> <1992Nov12.172938.15473@adobe.com>
Distribution: usa
Date: 13 Nov 92 12:34:15

In article <1992Nov12.172938.15473@adobe.com> kendall@adobe.com (Janice Kendall) writes:

   My Mom saw a house the first weekend she went looking that had not
   been "blanded-out" yet....  We've done lots of looking ourselves,
   and by far were attracted to homes that looked like people
   experienced "home" there.  Blanded out homes looked like
   apartments, like uni-sex clothing.  They don't appeal to me.  If
   the decor is highly stylized or the house needs painting anyway, go
   ahead and bland it out.  Otherwise, I think character sells.

   I think cleanliness is more important than bland.  I would look for a house
   that looks like it's been cared for.

I agree entirely.  White is depressing.  The only advantage it has is
that it is easy to paint any color over it.  However, if it's been
repainted quickly just to sell the house, chances are it's been done
poorly (no preparation), so it may not adhere well over time....  And
it's one more layer to hide molding profiles.

	-s
From: root@hakuin.boeing.com (Jeffrey Jongeward)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Furnaces
Keywords: Need new one!
Date: 9 Nov 92 21:28:40 GMT
Reply-To: root@hakuin.boeing.com
Organization: Boeing Defense and Space Group

My `53 GE counterflow oil furnace is in need of replacement, and I'm
in the process of looking at replacements for this thing.  I'm
thinking of converting to natural gas, but this may turn out to
be too costly due to being far from a gas line, up a bank, and in 
concrete slab house with the furnace located in the middle with
no easy access from the outside under the slab.  Also, seattle
may require tank removal in the future.

So my question is whether there is a counterflow furnace-FAQ, so to 
speak on both gas and oil furnaces.

Another point; the furnace must be QUIET because of it's locaton adjacent
to the living room (so forget a gas pulse furnace).

I've gotten one estimate on a ThermoPride; cost incl. installation ~$2K,
and the gas co. will be giving me an estimate in a day or two.

Anyway, I'd like to tap the collective wistom of this group on this topic.

Thanks,

jeff
From: gelman@wallabee.lbl.gov (Frida Gelman)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Propane vs. coals vs. electric BBQs
Followup-To: misc.consumers.house
Date: 11 Nov 1992 23:04:32 GMT
Organization: Lawrence Berkeley Laboratory, Berkeley
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: 128.3.128.49

	Dear fellow netters!

I hope this is the right group. We have a 4 year old BBQ which we use
a great deal (about 2 times/ week average) however its a real pain to
start coal every time, not to mention the extra time it takes for the
coals to reach desired temperature. The BBQ is on the deck which
also has running watter and a number of electrical outlets (even
one 220 V). Question: how well do propane or electrical BBQs work?
Do you get the same/similar flavor, consistency as with coal? What
about cost efficiency (I assume propane will be the cheapest?)?
What are the good brands/models and what should I try to avoid given
your experience? Could the BBQ model you recomend be left outside
during the mild winter we have here (Northern CA). 

	I will summarize responces if requested, but I never read this
group so please, please e-mail me. 

	Sorry if this is a FAQ. If it is, could you direct me to it?


				Thanks a lot in advance,


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Frida Gelman 
All opinions are those of the author
gelman@imasun.lbl.gov

       ()	  
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 l_^___^_______^_l  l__________l   \_________/   l___________l  l__________l
  ( ) ( )     ( )    ( )    ( )     ( )   ( )     ( )     ( )    ( )    ( )
_____________________________________________________________________________
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------


--
Frida Gelman 
All opinions are those of the author
gelman@imasun.lbl.gov
From: aem@symbiosis.ahp.com (a.e.mossberg)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Ceiling Fan Recommendations Wanted
Date: 10 Nov 1992 14:16:05 -0500
Organization: Symbiosis Corporation, Miami, Florida  (305) 597-4000
Distribution: na
Reply-To: aem@symbiosis.ahp.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: symbi1.symbiosis.ahp.com

billr@falcon.ims.com (Bill Rea) writes:

>I understand that Hunter fans are VERY good.  Quiet, low-vibration,
>and durable.

Also Casablanca Fan Company. But remember, both do make cheaper fans...

aem
-- 
andrew mossberg           systems specialist           symbiosis corporation
(305) 597-4110            fax (305) 597-4002           miami, florida 33166-6202
aem@symbiosis.ahp.com     uunet!symbi1!aem             SPAN: UMIGW::AEM
From: scholten@esseye.si.com (David Scholten)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: This old house, House selection, how to be selected
Date: 11 Nov 92 17:34:10 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Smiths Industries


A while back, I ran across a thread that was about how to have
your house selected to be fixed up by Steve and Norm.

Can someone send me info from this thread.  Any new information would
be appreciated.  Addresses and Tel nos. would be nice too.

Who knows, maybe my house will on the list someday.

Thanks,
Dave Scholten
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house