HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: vln@icpsr.umich.edu (Victoria Neff)
Subject: Re: Fabriholics Anonymous
Organization: Inter-University Consortium for Political and Social Research
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 19:06:34 GMT

In article <1992Sep2.155930.421@cbfsb.cb.att.com> motto@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (mary.rita.otto) writes:
>
>
>It's not just sandwashed rayon, you know.
>
>It can be anything.  Like the six different pieces of Halloween fabric
>that cried out "Make us into 100 bean bags for the Kindergarten and
>First Grade Halloween parties!"  (The kids toss them thru a target and
>then get to keep the bean bags as a "treat".)  Like the printed Halloween
>banners to hang on front and back doors.  Like the pheasant and grouse
>print panels for pillows that would look great in my Dad's living room.
>Like the printed panel to make a stuffed "bass" to mount as a "trophy"
>that my son really, REALLY, oh, please, Mommy, wanted.
>
>I brought it home on the last day of August and put in on the pile on
>top of the Christmas in July Sale purchases.  Right next to the cut out
>pieces of a sleeveless dress for my daughter.  And on the other side of the
>room from the trunk full of purchases dating back as far as 1985.
>
>AAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
>And now, Service Merchandise has a White Powerlock Serger for sale for
>only $279.  I admit that I have lusted in my heart for a Serger for
>about a year.  But my budget!!!!!
>
>Can I be saved?  Or will my condition worsen, leading to ... it's almost
>too awful to admit ... quilting?
>
>%)
>
>Mary Otto

Oh come on, Mary.  If you're still using fiber that someone else has
prepared for you, you haven't broken the SURFACE of Fiber Temptations.  ;-)

In addition to my large collection of un-sewn fabric, I also have several
sheep fleeces, mohair fleece, angora, and silk in various stages of 
preparation......

And only back to '85???  I'm sure I can go back as far as the '70s, though
I DID toss the polyester doubleknit left over from my Stretch-n-Sew class
when I last moved.....  ;-)

  -- Vicki (who is going to start dyeing RIGHT after a garage sale
            to get rid of the baby clothes that are knee-deep
	    in my sewing room.....)

I'll get organized as soon as I have more time, I promise!
From: conib@peri.gvg.tek.com (Coni Britten)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: Fitting problems:  an update
Date: 31 Aug 92 20:26:07 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Grass Valley Group, Grass Valley, CA

In article <ANNE.92Aug30150711@dolores.Stanford.EDU> anne@dolores.Stanford.EDU (Anne Paulson) writes:
>
>I've been fiddling around with this pattern for a couple of weeks now
>with no success.  The front fit right away (after I added an inch in
>shoulder width and squared up the shoulder, before I cut, since I knew
>I needed these alterations) but the back is a disaster and so is the
>sleeve.  I've temporarily given up.  

The Palmer-Pletsch folks were the first people I heard say that your
proper pattern size was one where your shoulders fit, and that your
bust/waist/hips measurements do not tell you your base size at all.
I have since heard this from other folks, and at my current level of
knowledge I tend to agree.  For myself, I cheat a bit on this as my
shoulders are three sizes smaller than my bust/waist/hips size, and I
would be doing a lot of slashing and spreading if I started with the
size that the Palmer-Pletsch folks at the fitting seminar said I should.

Barbara Kelly at The Sewing Workshop in S.F. gives a four-class series
called "Custom Fitting and Pattern Alteration".  This semester it'll be
held on the first four consecutive Thursdays of October (1st, 8th, 15th,
and 22nd) from 1:00 - 4:00 pm.  (Yes, I happened to have my Fall catalog
with me!  Today I'm scheduling my classes.)  I *highly* recommend taking
such a class if your adventure with the Palmer-Pletsch fitting pattern
doesn't work out either.


Coni B.
conib@peri.gvg.tek.com
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: ccuppern@s.psych.uiuc.edu (Cyndi Cuppernell)
Subject: Re: Getting gum out of clothes
Organization: UIUC Department of Psychology
Distribution: usa
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1992 05:11:51 GMT

birgenom@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (T.B. Shows/ Maureen Sion) writes:


>Hi! Does anyone know how to get gum out of clothes?

>Thanks in advance,
>Maureen

The product called Shout works.  Soak the gummed spot and let it
sit for a couple of minutes.  Use a non-serated table knife or the
back of a serated knife or any other smooth metal object and gently
scrape the gum off.  I have done this on several items with 100%
success.-- 
                 
         ________________________________
         |                              |
         |          WARNING             |
         |                              |
         |   .sig UNDER CONSTRUCTION    |
         |                              |
         |         PLEASE USE           |
         |       ALTERNATE ROUTE        |
         |                              |
         | (ccuppern@s.psych.uiuc.edu)  |
         |______________________________|
From: tigger@satyr.Sylvan.COM (Grace Sylvan)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: Serging thick layers of fabric (diaper doublers)
Date: 26 Aug 92 19:25:40 GMT
Organization: Sylvan Associates

In article <64478@cup.portal.com> ctopp@cup.portal.com (Carol F Topp) writes:

   I am trying to make some diaper doublers. They consist of
   three layers of cotton terry cloth and one layer of cotton
   flanel. The purchased ones are about $2.00 each and that seemed
   too expensive for such a simple item. 

   I have a Bernette 334DS serger and have been using it with 3 threads.
   My problem is that it is skipping stitches, especially around the curves.

What if you change the pattern of the diaper doubler to make the inner
layers a bit smaller than the outer ones. I assume you're making a
rectangle with rounded corners - then just make smaller rectangles for
the two inside layers, and quick topstitch (or zigzag) them to an
outer layer, then put the other outer layer on and stitch it up. If
your serger handles 3 layers w/o any skipping, then only make 1 inner
layer cut smaller.

Good luck!
-- 

Tigger (Grace Sylvan)                Mom of Katherine Yelena, 8/8/89 &
tigger@satyr.sylvan.com              Robin Gregory born 2/28/92

 "It seems to me that our large goal is to find the ways to help our
 children become humane and strong."
 
              - Dr Haim Ginott quoted by Adele Faber & Elaine Mazlish
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: dorothy@cvedc.prime.com (Dorothy Robinson)
Subject: Re: Pfaff 1473
Organization: Computervision R&D, Beaverton OR
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 23:23:27 GMT

karen@hp-ptp.ptp.hp.com (Karen Joanne Hall) writes:

>I just went crazy and bought a Pfaff 1473 with CD...

>What do you all think of Pfaff's in general?  Any problems?
>Any good tips and tricks, or sources of good tips and tricks -
>books, newsletters, etc...  Seems like this machine can
>just about sew all by itself....                             

I went crazy about two years ago and bought a Tipmatic - I think that's model
1174.  It does sew like a dream.  The thing I like best is the way the
presser foot snaps on and off, so it's no hassle to always use the best
foot for the job.  The walking feed really makes a difference, too,
especially for fine fabrics.  I can turn out all kinds of things really
quickly, and enjoy it immensely.

I'm glad I didn't get rid of my Singer Featherweight, though.  It's saved
the day more than once when doing very thick or heavy jobs.  The presser
foot will go WAY up, which let me sew the hood onto my Kinsale Cloak instead
of buttoning it on.  And the sideways immobility of the needle (no zigzag)
really helped when I was making a Cordura harp case.  It's sort of a trusty
pack-mule to the Pfaff racehorse.  Kind of embarrassing to pull out a tiny
antiquated machine to do a job that's too big for the new, expensive one!

===========================================================================
Dorothy Mokuren Robinson                           dorothy@cvedc.prime.com
     whose opinions are not those of...
Computervision             
14952 NW Greenbrier Parkway, Beaverton, Oregon 97006   Phone (503)690-7861
Newsgroups: alt.sewing,rec.crafts.textiles
From: usgehb@gsusgi2.gsu.edu (Evelyn H. Buffington)
Subject: Re: A yes for rec.crafts.quilting
Organization: Georgia State University
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 00:02:20 GMT

cindyf@eos.arc.nasa.gov (Cindy Ferguson) writes:

>Could someone post the address of quilting mailing list?  I'd love
>to be on it!

Cindy (and others) here is the blurb I got about the quilt mailing list.  Feel
free to send me private mail if you have any questions.  /Evelyn

---
Evelyn Buffington, GSU Computer Center,  Internet: usgehb@gsusgi2.gsu.edu 
*****************************************************************************
*                 Subscribing to the Quilt Maillist                         *

To subscribe to QUILT, send the following command in electronic mail to
listserv@cornell.edu:

	SUB QUILT firstname lastname
	SET QUILT MAIL ACK

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Users may choose from among certain options regarding how listserv will
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The default for all lists is NOACK, but I recommend that you use ACK so that
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To leave the list at any time, send the command
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If you have any questions about QUILT, contact Anne Louise Gockel, the list
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From: george@webb.psych.ufl.edu (Stephanie George)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: confessions & request for help/advice/solace
Date: 26 Aug 92 18:38:45 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Univ. of Florida, Psychology Dept.


Last year about this time I bought some somewhat heavy 100% rayon navy/green
even plaid intending to make some slacks.  After I washed it, it had become
luxuriously soft and drapy.  Obviously it had *lots* of fabric finish on it.

I still intended to make pants and so I carefully ironed it, folded it in
preparation for cutting, matched the plaids and basted the two sides 
together and cut out 2 leg fronts or backs I don't remember which.  This
stuff turned into a nightmare!  The fabric was all over the place - slinking
and slithering off the table (my cat attacking the tissue pattern pieces I
was trying to pin down didn't help either).
After trying all the rest of the weekend to cut out even one more piece, I
gave up and stuffed the lot of it into a bag and pretended it never happened.

I couldn't match anything, the pieces I cut out aren't even close to matching,
the whole project seems hopeless.  I have enough fabric to cut out three more
leg sides; I figure I can use the "extra" that I've already cut out that I
can't get to match for the waist band and pocket insides.

On the same trip to the fabric store when I bought the plaid, I bought some
of the sandwashed silky rayon for a blouse to match and I'm totally
afraid to lay scissors to it for fear that it, too, will slide off the table
while I'm trying to cut it.  The sandwashed isn't plaid, but it is hard to
hang on to.

How do you tame this stuff?  If I re-iron the plaid with lots of spray starch
will that affect the fit after I wash the finish out of the finished slacks?
How do I tame the sandwashed stuff?  The thought of fabric finish touching
that stuff is something close to horrifying.

How do you recover a plaid project like pants?  And for matching plaid pants
how much do you match?  It seems to me that the stripes should match front
to back pieces on the same leg on the outside; up the back between the two
back pieces and horizontally across the two legs.  Now that I think about it,
it does seem a daunting task to get all of that to match, if it's even
possible.

Is there any hope for this project or does this become one of those good
intentions?

Meanwhile, I'm making lots of nice, cotton, plain oxford-type shirts...

Another confession: I've finally finished the Icelandic wool pullover that
I started 10 years ago!  Now that I live in Florida, it'll do me lots of
good, too!  But most of all, it's done.

Please tell me that I'm not alone.

Stephanie
-- 
Stephanie George        DoD #218         Box J-14, JHMHC 
george@net.health.ufl.edu                University of Florida
(904) 392-8450                           Gainesville, FL  32610
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: pmeredit@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Priscilla A Meredith)
Subject: Re: Gloves pattern ...
Organization: The Ohio State University
Distribution: usa
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1992 02:19:53 GMT

There is also a new Vogue pattern for gloves that came out for Autumn season that is pretty effective for a glove pattern.  It is shown in cavalier style.
pris
From: birgenom@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (T.B. Shows/ Maureen Sion)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Getting gum out of clothes
Date: 29 Aug 92 02:24:00 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41


Hi! Does anyone know how to get gum out of clothes?

Thanks in advance,
Maureen
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: grants@syacus.acus.oz.au (Grant Sayer)
Subject: Haberdashery Suppliers in USA
Summary: tailor suppliers - where to purchase
Keywords: tailor supplies, stores, location
Organization: ACUS, Australian Centre for Unisys Software, Sydney AUST.
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 06:10:31 GMT


Just a quick question.. can anyone advise where to purchase the 
following items ?

	1. tailors ham
	2. point presser
	3. seam roll

It seems that these items are difficult to obtain in Australia (or 
so my wife tells me).

Any suggestions/help is most appreciated.

-- 
Grant Sayer                   ACSnet : grants@syacus.acus.oz
Ph : +61 2 390-1339         Internet : grants@syacus.acus.OZ.AU
Fax: +61 2 390-1391             UUCP : uunet!munnari!syacus.acus.oz.au!grants
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: euafri@eua.ericsson.se (Fredrik.Ostman)
Subject: Re: help: buttonholes on a thick coat
Organization: Ellemtel Telecom Systems Labs, Stockholm, Sweden
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 14:44:18 GMT

ber@otter.hpl.hp.com (Brenda Romans) writes:

>I am attempting to make a coat out of VERY thick woollen material.  There is no
>pile on it to speak of but it is going to be an interesting job to get it
>through the machine.

I don't think you'll have any problem at all.

>My machine (a basic electronic Burda) does buttonholes very well but I think
>I'd better do these by hand.  I am embroidering detail on the pockets (and
>maybe other places later) and I'd like to use the stranded embroidery silk on
>the buttonholes but I don't think that it will be strong enough.

I think it would. Just make sure you sew around the buttonhole a few
times on the machine, and sew the silk densely.
--
  ______                     _~
 (_/_ _  _  _/) _  . /)     / ) , _/)     _
__/ _/(_(/_(/__/(_/_/Z_    (_/_/)_/__/))_(I_/)_
Newsgroups: alt.sewing,rec.arts.startrek.misc
From: mcohen@vax.clarku.edu
Subject: RE: StarTrek Costume Patterns
Organization: Clark University
Date: 31 AUG 92 23:32:30 GMT

In a previous article, jogle@zia.aoc.nrao.edu (Jim Ogle (Ks. Jim)) wrote:
>I don't know if they sell patterns for the uniforms but Starland in
>Denver, CO had complete costumes for sale in their last catalog (TOS
>and TNG but no movie uniforms).  
> 
>I can get their address from home so email me if you need it (or if
>someone knows their address they could post it.)
> 
> 
>-- 
>Kansas Jim (Jim Ogle, TORG guru)
>jogle@aoc.nrao.edu (NRAO-VLBA, Socorro New Mexico)
>"I'd be apathetic if I cared."
Starland News, PO Box 24590, Denver Colorado 80224.  800/733-8735 or 
303/671-8735.  Page 25 of their Spring catalog (latest I have) have uniform 
patters for $5.95.  Enjoy.

/--------------------------------------------------------------------------\
|  \  /                                                              \  /  |
|  /  \               From the Desk and Mind of Mitch                /  \  |
|   /\                                                                /\   |
|  \  /                   MCohen@Vax.Clarku.Edu                      \  /  |
|   \/                                                                \/   |
|            Any opinions expressed are clearly someone else's!            |
\__________________________________________________________________________/
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: jimpt@bucket.rain.com (Jim Peterson)
Subject: Re: Pattern sizes--where do they come from???
Organization: Rick's Home-Grown Un*x
Distribution: na
Date:  2 Sep 92 22:11:58 GMT

nola@cats.ucsc.edu (Nola Van Vugt) writes:


>Clearly McCalls designs for the short stocky figure.  My question is,
>does any other pattern company have sizing that might be more
>compatible?  

Fitting for children's patterns is quite an adventure.  I have been
making outfits for my daughters, ages 5 and almost 3.  This is how I
have been selecting pattern sizes. 
 
 
**McCalls, Simplicity, Butterick, Vogue & Sunrise Designs** 
 
I think all of these patterns are very loose fitting.  The last 3
companies include the height in their size chart.  I select the
pattern size by height & take it in at least one size in the width,
sometimes two.  For the first 2 companies, I look at a
Butterick/Vogue chart for the height when selecting a size.  To do
this, I only buy multi-size patterns. 
 
My 5 year old daughter usually wears a 6 in ready to wear.  For these
pattern lines, I use a 5 for the length and a 3 for the width.  Her
circumference measurements are in the size 1 to 2 range.  If I
started with them, instead of the height for pattern selections, the
styles would not be age appropriate.   
 
 
 
**Stretch and Sew patterns** 
 
I bought my first one of these patterns last week (& 2 more this
week!)  I'm very enthused about them.  The first pattern I bought was
a dress pattern in sizes 21-31.   
 
I called the company for help with their sizing.  Their patterns are
not as baggy as the ones from the "traditional" pattern companies.  A
size 21 in Stretch and Sew is comparable to a size 4 in ready to
wear.  A 23 would be a 5 in ready to wear.  One ready to wear line
that compares this way is Healthtex. 
 
I made a dress for each daughter out of the first pattern.  They both
fit -- no alterations needed!  These patterns are also sold by mail
order (1-800-547-7717) according to a recent ad in Sew News.   Many,
if not all, of their patterns are for woven fabrics, too, if you
don't want to sew with knits. 
 
 
How are other people selecting pattern sizes for children's outfits? 
 
Carolyn -- on husband's account
(not affiliated with any pattern companies)
From: twl10@ccc.amdahl.com (Tom Littauer)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Available Color Choices
Summary: Color Marketing Group
Date: 1 Sep 92 15:02:14 GMT
Reply-To: twl10@JUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Tom Littauer)
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

In a number of previous articles, posters were noting the lack of certain
colors in fabrics and the cyclic nature of color availability. I thought
I'd kick in with something I just noticed.

One of my hobbies is furniture-making, and I subscribe to some of the 
industry trade magazines. One of them, Upholstery Design and Manufacturing,
just published an article about the upcoming International Color Marketing
Group meeting (September) in which preliminary discussions aimed at setting
the 1995 colors will be held. They also noted that the last meeting (April)
finalized the 1994 colors.

All your suspicions are true :-)

Tom
-- 
Tom Littauer at Amdahl M/S 278, PO Box 3470, Sunnyvale CA 94088-3470 USA
+1 408 737 5056     twl10@juts.ccc.amdahl.com     twl10@amail.amdahl.com
I'll tell you when I'm speaking as Amdahl's Spokesman - usually I'm not.
V'z n fgrnygu-grpuabybtl rapelcgrq .fvtangher ivehf - TBGPUN!!!
Newsgroups: alt.sewing,alt.fashion
From: euafri@eua.ericsson.se (Fredrik.Ostman)
Subject: Re: Pattern sizes--where do they come from???
Organization: Ellemtel Telecom Systems Labs, Stockholm, Sweden
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 11:56:46 GMT

nola@cats.ucsc.edu (Nola Van Vugt) writes:

>I was shocked at how awful this dress fit her when
>she tried it on.  I measured her more completely and, according to the
>body measurements chart on the back of the pattern envelope (which is
>not quite the same as I remembered from the back of the pattern book)
>my child is a size 5, 4, 7, 10, or 12, depending on whether I go by
>her breast, waist, hip, height, or back-waist measurement.

This is a very common problem, being of different "sizes" at different
parts of the body. The reason is that the *sizes* are basically one-
dimensional. This makes the number of sizes smaller, which makes
ready-to-wear cheaper. Ready-to-wear is often made with a large amount
of ease, which makes most figures fit into them. Close-fitting ready-
to-wear is usually elastic. Sometimes, the manufacturers use the *wrong*
size label to flatter the customer.

The dimension used to determine the size is the chest/bust width. There
are in Sweden two "lines" of sizes, one for 160 cm height and one for
168 cm height, and there are B, C and D varieties for small, average
and big bottom width, but these varieties are usually hard to find,
especially for fashion items and indeed for patterns.

From the chest width, the rest of the measurements are extrapolated,
assuming normal proportions. Now, if you don't have normal proportions,
or close enough, you can't determine what size will fit you best
merely by taking your chest measurement. You must pay attention to
*how* you differ. For example, the sizes make an assumption on the
cup size, for most sizes this is a "B" cup or 10 cm difference between
the chest width and the rib-cage width. For a fitted design, this
won't do if you have another cup size -- all the measurements get wrong.
What you have to do is to take the rib-cage width and add 10 cm. If
your bust is bigger than that, you must slash the pattern and add front
width and length. If it is smaller, you must either do the reverse or
accept a loose fit at that point. 

>Clearly McCalls designs for the short stocky figure.

I'm not so sure about that. It seems to me your daughter is tall, but
hasn't got very long legs, and she's got a thin waist and undeveloped
chest and breasts, quite what you could expect of a very young person.
--
  ______                     _~
 (_/_ _  _  _/) _  . /)     / ) , _/)     _
__/ _/(_(/_(/__/(_/_/Z_    (_/_/)_/__/))_(I_/)_
Newsgroups: alt.sewing,rec.crafts.textiles
From: srawson@z.eecs.umich.edu (Stephen Rawson)
Subject: Re: A yes for rec.crafts.quilting
Organization: University of Michigan EECS Dept., Ann Arbor
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 17:12:06 GMT

In article <1992Jul21.182600.1@hamp.hampshire.edu> msmallin@hamp.hampshire.edu writes:
>Even though I'm on the list, I'd like rec.crafts.quilting.
>
Sounds like a winner to me as well.  Seems like most of the postings to this
group are about quilting anyway.  I am downloading extracts for my
fiancee (who is a new user of Electric Quilt, by the way) and it
would be a lot easier to do if there was a newsgroup exclusively devoted
to quilting.

Is this how I vote for the rec.crafts.quilting newsgroup?  I've never
voted for a newsgroup before.

Steve
From: KERRIGAN@MAINE.MAINE.EDU (Jean Kerrigan)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: Washing velvet
Date: 4 Sep 92 14:31:01 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Maine System

BABY CLOSTHES/ VELVET..SURE YOU WANT THE TWO TOGETHER??