HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: eap@vuse.vanderbilt.edu (Edward A. Parrish)
Subject: Re: CAD and project design
Organization: Vanderbilt University School of Engineering, Nashville, TN, USA
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 15:20:57 GMT

In article <168A310B42.WHERRYD@wsuvm1.csc.wsu.edu> WHERRYD@wsuvm1.csc.wsu.edu writes:
>I recently acquired my dream home computer system and I'm interested
>in drawing up some of my wood project plans with a CAD system.  But
>what to use?  GenericCAD? AutoCAD? EasyCAD? TurboCAD? DesignCAD? And
>the list goes on!  My minimum requirement is that the system check
>dimensions for me, that is, a total dimension is equal to the sum of
>its component dimensions on the drawing.  But I would rejoice in a
>system that would build exploded isometric views from three elevation
>views (if that's possible).  I imagine AutoCAD is the most flexible, but
>it also carries a steep learning curve that I'd like to avoid unless
>it's absolutely necessary.

I use Autosketch (also distributed by Autodesk, of Autocad fame) for
most of my original designs and find it does very nicely. The
dimensioning is very easy. If you want multiple views and the ability
to specify diffent eye points in 3d, you'll need Autocad,
Microstation, or the equvalent. BTW, the Autocad tutorial is
pretty straightforward and you really don't need to learn all
the capabilities to do quite a bit of work. It does require more
computer though.

Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Thu, 19 Nov 1992 12:55:00 EST
From:         HUNTRESS GARY B <HUNTRESS@NPT.NUSC.NAVY.MIL>
Subject:      Attention Roy Underhill Fans....

This will only be of interest to those of us in the
Boston area (sorry, I couldn't fit all that in the subject
line;-)).

Roy's show has been off the air in our viewing area for quite a
while, it was replaced by Woodcarving with Jim Butts.
I recently called WGBH TV regarding a non-woodworking matter and I
happened to mention that I have "really missed watching The
Woodright Shop".  They said that Roy will be returning in
January.

===============================================================================
|  Gary Huntress                        |  "I'm not a member of an organized  |
|  Naval Undersea Warfare Center        |   political party, I'm a democrat"  |
|  Newport RI                           |                                     |
|  (401) 841-7839                       |    My Brother                       |
|  HUNTRESS@NPT.NUSC.NAVY.MIL           |   ( and Will Rogers )               |
|=============================================================================|
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: Dream Saw (long)
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 17:38:06 GMT

Smith writes
> I think Bennett makes a very strong case that the Inca 12" table saw
> is a lot better than the Delta, Powermatic, General, and other 10"
> table saws.  But it is also almost $1000 more, so you would expect
> that.

Wait a minute, you're comparing Inca's list price to the discount price you 
can get the others for. The Inca is goes "on sale" twice each year for about 
$2200. The Unisaw with 3 HP motor and Unifence is about $1700 - that's a 
$500 difference (I'd stack the Inca's standard fence up against the 
Unifence anyday). And, don't forget to add in the cost of the Delta's
motor cover ($60) and an upgrade to the miter guage (an Accu-miter is
about $148).

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
Opinions are mine alone.
I have no connection with Inca or Garrett Wade.
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 23 Nov 1992 19:46:00 EST
From:         Jim Morgan <JMORGAN@BROWNVM.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Liming

>Posted on 23 Nov 1992 at 00:51:07 by Quentin Scott
>
>I have recently seen several pieces of work which have been finished with
>Liming. Does anyone know how this finish is achieved? The work I have seen this
>used on was all English Oak, however I assume it can also be applied to other
>timbers which good looking results?
>
>Quentin Scott                           quentin@research.canon.oz.au
>CISRA

Limed finishes are prepared by first applying a sealer (thinned shellac,
sanding sealer, or thinned lacquer), then brushing on and wiping off a
pigmented coat (oil paint or primer - typically white).  The pigment will
remain in the pores of the wood, but should be thoroughly wiped off the
surface.  After allowing the pigment to dry for a couple days, topcoats of
shellac or lacquer are applied in the usual fashion (avoid topcoats thinned
with mineral spirits, like oil-based varnishes, since the mineral spirits
will tend to dissolve the pigment unless is has dried for a couple weeks).
Limed finished look best on open-grained woods with uniform coloration -
oak, walnut, mahogany, and the like (but not zebrawood or paldao).
The best results may be obtained by bleaching the wood and then staining
it before liming.  Many books on finishing include information on limed
or pickled finishes.

Jim Morgan
Brown University
James_Morgan@Brown.Edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: Source for mirrors
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 20:06:25 GMT

harold.klee@synapse.org (Harold Klee) writes:

: build is a kaleidoscope, since I also collect them.  However, I am
: having a tough time finding first surface mirrors.  Does anyone out
: there know of a source for these.  I would prefer to "shop Canadian"
: simply because of the hassles involved in buying mail order out of the
: country, but will consider ordering from the USA.  Dealers in Ottawa
: don't know what first surface mirrors are, let alone stock them.

I don't know of any Canadian source - but Edmund Scientific in Barrington
New Jersey has them. You can call them for a catalog.

Bill
From: frank@marvin.contex.com (Frank Perdicaro)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: What is the advantage of "worm drive"?  (was Re: Circular Saw recom)
Date: 19 Nov 92 14:21:27 GMT
Organization: Xyvision Design Systems

In article <1992Nov14.064945.13842@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com> billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson) writes:
>games@max.u.washington.edu writes:
>: 
Sorry, but I deleted a bunch of stuff.

I love my Skil 77.  I have said so before in this forum.

The best part of the Skil saw is the safety.  If you have both hands
on the handles ( there are two ), you cannot possibly cut either hand.

I have cut steel roofing, 1/2" mild steel, concrete, clay tile, car
axles, 2" decking with 6 layers of roofing, held on by 20p nails,
ripped 2.5" oak by the hundred foot, triple layers of 3/4" plywood,
and even the oak to make my kitchen cabinets with this saw.  

I had a saw from Sears; it melted one day while I was using it.

The only thing the Skil did not like was one 10 inch cut through the
1/2" mild steel.  It got quite hot, but not hot enough to melt: most
other saws would have died long ago...
-- 
	 Frank E Perdicaro, Systems Admin, etc.		Xyvision Color Systems
      Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.		101 Edgewater Drive
   inhouse: frank@marvin, x5572				Wakefield MA
outhouse: frank@contex.com, 617-245-4100x5572		018801285
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bellas@soldev.TTI.COM (Pete Bellas)
Subject: Re: Help me with buying tools
Reply-To: bellas@soldev.TTI.COM (Pete Bellas)
Organization: Transaction Technology, Inc.
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 15:30:03 GMT

In article <1992Nov13.225913.5440@mailer.cc.fsu.edu>,
gcohen@mailer.cc.fsu.edu (Gregory Cohen) writes:

> A 4 1/2" angle grinder, with biscuit cutter  and random orbit sander
conversion kits, from Penn State.  ($75/$64/$42 respectively)

If you get these conversions kits let me us know how they work, I have the
4 1/2" angle grinder and would like to put it to more use. TIA.

			-Pete-


* Pete Bellas                   "Cogito ergo spud"                         *
* Citicorp/TTI                       I think therefore I yam.              *
* Santa Monica, CA                                                         *
* bellas@gamma.tti.com                                                     *
From: paul.burnett@pcs.sj.ca.us (Paul Burnett) 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Roy Underhill is a go
Date: 20 Nov 92 14:06:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: PCS-BBS - San Jose, CA - 408-270-4085
Reply-To: paul.burnett@pcs.sj.ca.us (Paul Burnett) 

TO: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)

GPH>   It reminds me of some of the "Helpful Shop Tips" in Fine Woodworking
   >   magazine.  Some of them are good tips, some of them are good for a
   >   laugh.

C'mon, Paul - _all_ of us were beginners once.  <G>  FWW and other mags
are aimed at those who aspire to _becoming_ "fine woodworkers" as much
as it is at those who already are.  (And there's darn few of us -
right?)  <G>

GPH>   Thank God there is a range of experience and plenty of dumb advice
   >   around.  It gives us room to become good craftsman

Exactly - there are _always_ new things to learn - new techniques, new
machines, new hardware and software....
---
 . QMPro 1.0 41-8688 . ...from San Jose, CA
                                            
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mlord@bmers63.bnr.ca (Mark Lord)
Subject: Re: Sharpening and using scrapers
Organization: BNR, Ottawa, Canada
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 92 17:42:10 GMT

In article <1992Nov17.181925.25364@cbfsb.cb.att.com> millios@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (william.l.millios) writes:
>In article <WOODWORK%92111119425597@IPFWVM.BITNET> Jim Morgan <JMORGAN@BROWNVM.BITNET> writes:
>>>I used the "file and burnish" technique to sharpen mine with
>>>moderate success, but the process is still very much trial and
>>>error to me.  Is it worth investing in a burnishing gadget?
>>>
>>I have the Veritas Variable Burnisher (recently marked down to $29.95) on
>>my wish list this year - seems like a good idea if you're going to be
>>using a scraper a lot.  
>
>I got the Veritas gadget, and wasn't impressed.  It's kind of cheesy,
>I thought, and in my preliminary, "let's see how a scraper works"
>experimentations, I found I was better able to get a good hook with
>the use of a burnisher than with the gadget.  Save the 30 bucks and
>buy another router bit.  (grin)

Or saw a slot & drill a hole into a scrap block of wood to make your own
by just inserting your existing burnishing rod or file end into the hole.

'course, it ain't variable, but y'all can make two or three in seconds 
with different "fixed" angled holes for your burnishing rod.
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
From: Ernie_Patterson@unc.edu (Ernie Patterson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Wood Cook Stove Repair
Date: 22 Nov 92 20:33:32 GMT
Organization: UNC Office of Information Technology

I know this is not exactly a wood working project, but if 
some is involved in restoration you might be able to help
me.

I am looking for help in restoring a wood cook stove to 
working condition.  The stove was made by the Karr Range Co.
in Belleville, Il. around 1920-1924.  I would appreciate any
information about getting parts for the stove or having it
repaired.  The major problem is the firebox needs major 
repair and without any manuals or other information it is
difficult to put the stove in working condition.

Thanks for your help.

Ernie Patterson
Ecology Curriculum
231 Wilson Hall CB#3275
Chapel Hill, NC 27599-3275
(919)-962-2136
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
From: twl10@ccc.amdahl.com (Tom Littauer)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Veneers and veneering
Date: 18 Nov 92 00:50:05 GMT
Reply-To: twl10@JUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Tom Littauer)
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

In article <1992Nov17.190711.27955@cbfsb.cb.att.com> millios@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (william.l.millios) writes:
>This is one topic I haven't seen discussed much, and my fiance
>(for only 9 more days)

Congratulations! ... or did you mean the weddding's off if you don't
finish in 9 days? :-)

>I'd estimate (since I don't have digital calipers like some folks
>out there) it to be nearly 1/8 of an inch.
>
>Is this standard thickness?

No. It's overkill for the top of a dresser/bureau.

>                             Should I just order bookmatched
>veneers out of Constantines?

Should work out just fine, depending on the edge treatment (i.e. how
did the original designer hide the fact he was using veneer, and can you
fit the new, thinner veneer into that scheme.

>While we're on that topic, how about a quick run down on how to 
>do this?  Do I soak it?  How do I find a tub big enough to soak
>a piece of wood that's 3 by 4 feet?

Are you trying to tell us that the surface you wish to veneer is curved?
If so, a lot depends on the shape. If not, no soaking needed.
If you're new to this, spend the extra $ to get a single sheet of veneer
that's already been matched and taped together. It'll simplify your
life immensely and won't add too much to your costs. Constantines carries
them.

>Glue to use?

Contact cement. Roll/brush evenly onto *BOTH* mating surfaces. Let dry
15 min. *THEN* bring the 2 mating surfaces together. It'll grab instantly
and permanently (no fiddling with the match allowed). You'll then want
to remove all bubbles and make sure the glue is bonding at all points
by using a rolling pin or logical equivalent and (working from the middle
out) roll the veneer flat.

Trick for making sure it fits:

1) start with oversize veneer and trim it after it's on.
2) put wax paper on the dresser top after you glue it, then put
   the glued veneer on top of that. Position the veneer. Slip the
   wax paper out and roll down.

>              How to clamp? 

Not needed. That's why you use contact cement. Other folks use pressure-
sensitive veneer (real-wood contact paper :-) or a sheet of heat-activated
glue and a household iron.

>All assistance welcome.  I have looked around, and cannot find any
>"quick and easy" directions on how to veneer large flat surfaces.

Relax. It ain't that tough. The trimming of the veneer after you get it on
will be the toughest part, and we can't help with that without knowing
more about the shape of the edge. With luck, you can use a router with
a pattern-cutting bit which is dead easy.

Good luck, and let us know how it comes out.

Tom
-- 
Tom Littauer at Amdahl M/S 278, PO Box 3470, Sunnyvale CA 94088-3470 USA
+1 408 737 5056     twl10@juts.ccc.amdahl.com     twl10@amail.amdahl.com
I'll tell you when I'm speaking as Amdahl's Spokesman - usually I'm not.
V'z n fgrnygu-grpuabybtl rapelcgrq .fvtangher ivehf - TBGPUN!!!
From: pfm@unh.edu (Patrick F. Messer)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Grizzly 1023 or Delta Unisaw?
Date: 17 Nov 1992 14:40:44 GMT
Organization: Research Computing Center
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: icarus.unh.edu
Keywords: tablesaw,unisaw


I'm looking into buying a new tablesaw and would appreciate any thoughts people have.
Currently I'm looking at the Grizzly G1023 and the Delta Unisaw.  These are my thoughts
so far about each:

	Unisaw
		+ I have experience with older models
		- I don't have experience with newer models
		- Jet lock fence
		- $1400 for 3HP model

	Grizzly G1023
		+ $900.00
		? Fence (how good is this fence?)
		- No experience in dealing with grizzly products

Thanks in advance

pfm

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: question about hide-glue
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 19:43:37 GMT

weissborn@JAS.DALLAS.SDS.SLB.COM writes:
: I would like to use hide-glue in more of my veneering but I am
: a little confused as to whether I have to throw-away the glue
: when I am done or if I can store it for use at a later date.
: 
: I don't do a lot of veneering(mostly repairs/replacements) so
: it could get very expensive if I have to keep tossing the stuff.

If I recall correctly, you mix and heat the glue - just before use.
By mixing only the amount you need, there should be little waste.
I don't recall how long it keeps.

Bill
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ggibeau@ucqais.cba.uc.edu (George G. Gibeau)
Subject: Books
Summary: Inexpensive source for Woodworking Books
Keywords: Woodworking books, inexpensieve
Organization: University of Cincinnati, College of Business
Distribution: usa
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1992 00:56:06 GMT

Here is what I found out today after visiting our local Half Price
Books bookstore.

In 1972 Half Price Books opened its first store in a small converted
laundromat.  Now they are the nation's largest new and used bookstore,
with stores across the country.

They are NOT a local store (sorry for the misinformation), and according
to the gentleman behind the counter, they do NOT do mail order.
In addition to books, they also have a great source of records and CD's.
(and I even picked up some cheap used laser discs).

An example of some of the NEW woodworking books they carry;

Router Jigs and Techniques - Patrick Spielman  $5.98
Wood Joiners Handbook - Sam Allen (paperback)  $4.98
Scroll Saw Fretwork - Techniques and Projects - Spielman & Reidle $3.98
Band Saw Book - R. J. De Cristoforo  $5.98
Tools and How to Use Them - Albert Jackson & David Day  $5.00
Shelves, Closets, and Cabinets - Peter Jones  $7.98
Woodworking Projects for the Great Outdoors - Don Geary  $5.98
Various Audel Series books - $4.98
various Popular Science Series books - $4.98 to $7.98
various Rodale Press books - $4.98

in addition to the new books, they have a fairly extensive selection of
used books, but I am sure this will vary from location to location.

Hope this was useful info for someone....

Regards and happy sawdust...
George Gibeau

disclaimer - I in no way work for nor am associated with Half Price Books
except as a satisfied customer.


-- 
George Gerald Gibeau, Jr.   ggibeau@ucqais.uc.edu
University of Cincinnati    Department of Biological Sciences
Ecologists - we'll save the world, even if it kills you.
From: dembrows@eniac.seas.upenn.edu (Barry Dembrowski)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Wanted: Reliant Tools info
Date: 17 Nov 92 16:36:48 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Pennsylvania


		I'm looking for information on Reliant Tools. I received
   their catalogue recently and I was wondering if anyone has good or bad
   news about their quality, prices, or customer service.  I'm particular-
   ly interested in their bandsaws and tablesaws.  I'm skeptical about all
   names (except Delta, Ryobi etc.) so if I don't hear anything I may stick
   with whats known to be good.  Their pricing doesn't seem to be much dif-
   ferent from Delta's.  

		Also... I missed the FAQ for this newsgroup can someone
   tell me what the article number(s)  was.

	
  ***************************************************************************

   email    dembrows@eniac.seas.upenn.edu
  **************************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: batten@kodak.kodak.com (James Batten)
Subject: Re: Upstate NY Sawmilling?
Organization: Eastman Kodak Company
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 92 16:27:11 GMT

In article <1992Nov17.140836.26797@mlb.semi.harris.com> luoni@jasper.mlb.semi.harris.com (Perry Luoni) writes:
>In article <1992Nov17.015743.2693@cirrus.com> john@cirrus.com (John Wishneusky) writes:
>>In article <1992Nov13.201718.19510@schbbs.mot.com> RYLV80@waccvm.corp.mot.com (William Mohrman) writes:
>>>
>>> Chris Writes:
>
[alot of text has been deleted here. sorry about that]
>
>
I tried to send e-mail to Chris since local lumber yards would not really be of interest to the net
in general, but it bounced. And of course now I don't have a phone book to get the names and numbers
but if I don't post now I'll forget to.

   Chris, there is a small lumber yard just outside of Hilton on Redman Rd. It is small enough that
it may be interested in doing the job for you. You might also try Pittsford Lumber. They cater to 
the hobbiest and I THINK they might be able to handle your request.

   The one thing (besides how good is the wood if it's just been laying around) to keep in mind is that
most lumber yards don't want to take on a project unless they felled the tree. I don't know what 
difference it makes, but they feel more certain that the wood will not have hidden nails or such in 
them to damage their equipment (and them) if they are in charge from the start.

   As for using Roy Underhill's methods... yea it's true, we should not just toss all the modern
techniques we have at our disposal, but as in this case, they are not always at our disposal. I 
don't have all the antique tools Roy has, but I have used some of his ideas to get some nice wood
down to size that I could use my band saw on it. Also, I don't have a thickness planer yet so I
had to use a hand plane that really is not as sharp as it should be. The end result was a very
nice/unusual coatrack/shelf that I was very proud to give as a gift a few years ago.             

  I would love to continue to stock my shop, but with as much time as I have to devote to it right
now I just can't justify it.. so untill then, when ever I need to do something like this I'll just
grab another piece of scrap steel, sharpen one side, add a large handle and froe (sp) away again.
It's really surprising how fast it actually gets the job done.

ciao -jim batten
From: paul.burnett@pcs.sj.ca.us (Paul Burnett) 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: CAD and project desig
Date: 21 Nov 92 05:16:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: PCS-BBS - San Jose, CA - 408-270-4085
Reply-To: paul.burnett@pcs.sj.ca.us (Paul Burnett) 

TO: stericker_r@qis.dofasco.ca

 >My question regarding CAD for woodworking has to do with output of the final
 >drawing.  Most of what I have read about design says you should evaluate
 >full size drawings of a piece before cutting wood.  
 >Does anyone know of a way to easily output a drawing in
 >pages and paste them together like most spreadsheets support?

I was gonna try and stay out of this, but....  MicroGrafx Designer, a
drawing program which works in Windows, will let you do drawings in real
size and print them out tiled on a bunch of pieces of paper - I've done
it.

---
 . QMPro 1.0 41-8688 . ...from San Jose, CA
                                                                                                                                        
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: lcatlett@carson.u.washington.edu (Lynn Catlett)
Subject: Re: Cradle Plans
Keywords: cradle rocker baby
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 16:20:38 GMT

Further on the subject of baby-proof finishes:
(from this group's very own FAQ)  -- try WALNUT OIL
it's nontoxic and dries slowly to a very nice finish.
I've used it on cutting boards and wooden bowls with
very satisfactory results.
Cheers,
Lynn

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: fkilpatr@afit.af.mil (Freeman A. Kilpatrick)
Subject: Re: Roy Underhill is a good turner. Norm ain't.
Organization: Air Force Institute of Technology
Distribution: world, usa, na
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 03:22:29 GMT

tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin) writes:

>This was in distinct contrast to watching Norm Abhrams hacking at a lathe 
>on The New Yankee Powertool Advertising Show a few months ago.  Norm
>used scraping cuts, and basically abused the wood into shape.   He really
>didn't know what he was doing.  

>For those of you who want to learn how to turn,  buy the Richard Raffin tape
>from FWW, or watch Underhill.  But for heavens sake, don't learn from Norm.

I really like Norm, and he is probably partially responsible for getting
me into woodworking (hey, that looks easy! ;)), but I have to agree with
you here.  From watching Norm, I got the impression that all turning was
done with a duplicating jig.  I never realized there was really an art
to it until I read Raffin's book and saw his tape.  They are both
excellent for learning turning.  Now if I can just get the hang of that
skew chisel....  Alas, Richard Raffin, just like Norm, makes it look too
easy.
-- 
Alex Kilpatrick  fkilpatr@afit.af.mil  
"There are also persistant rumors that IBM will soon offer a hard-disk drive, 
an expensive accessory that only a businessman would want..."
--- Popular Computing, December 1981
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking