HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: garry@alice.att.com (garry hodgson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Brio Toy Parts
Summary: me too
Date: 17 Dec 92 15:25:20 GMT
Reply-To: garry@alice.UUCP ()
Distribution: rec
Organization: AT&T, Bell Labs

Preston.Jones@launchpad.oit.unc.edu writes:

  A question for all the woodworkers who receive tons of catalogs. Recently,
  I received a catalog which contained the parts to make Brio toys.  This
  company sold the tires, axle tacks, magnets etc. Unfortunately, I round
  filed it. As if that weren't enough I also forgot what the company name was.
  If there is anyone who has this catalog or the name of the company I would
  really appreciate " the answer " 

If you find out, please post to the net.  I'd be real interested.
Also, doesn anyone know if you can buy these toys and stuff from
Brio directly, or via mail order.  They're kinda hard to find locally.


-- 
Garry Hodgson			A slow winter day
AT&T Bell Labs			A night like forever
garry@alice.att.com		Sink like a stone
att!alice!garry			Float like a feather
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: Jointer vs Planer
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 23:32:15 GMT

Vance Morrison writes
> The only reason I suggest the jointer first, however, is that although
> it is possible to put a straight edge on a board with the table saw
> or router, this is enough of a pain that you will only do it when you
> really HAVE to (like gluing up a wide board). ...
> This is 10 seconds work with a jointer, but considerably
> longer without one (so much so that is you probably won't bother).  

Not so. If you make a jointer-style fence for your router table or table
saw (again, remember my references to the Woodsmith articles), you can 
joint just as quickly on the tablesaw/router as on a real jointer, since
the typical depth of cut is about the same. Remember, the principle on all
is the same - instead of two parallel but offset tables, you have two 
parallel but offset fences (actually, a piece of formica glued to the 
outfeed side of the fence works nicely). 

There are advantages and disadvantages to each. A jointer's cutterhead has 
a larger diameter than a router bit and so will tear out less. But the
tablesaw jointing method isn't as prone to tear out as any jointer. With a
good blade/bit you should get good results.

The big limitation is the length of the router bit (2"), or depth of cut
on the tablesaw (3"). But for edges, these should be adequate. Also, 
typically the tables on a jointer are longer than the fences on your 
tablesaw/router table, but you can build longer fences.


> I have found that my table saw fence works SO MUCH better and my ripping
> is so MUCH more accurate if the wood is first straightened and squared
> on the jointer. 

Actually, it is simply MUCH more dangerous to rip wood that doesn't have
a straight edge against the rip fence. The wood may tend to rotate as it's
being cut, which can lead to kickback - or worse.

The tablesaw jointing method I'm talking about is NOT simply taking ripping
passes. It's building a fence into which the blade sits where the outfeed
side sticks out about 1/8" (blade kerf) more than the infeed side. You 
operate it like a jointer turned on its side. This fence is as simple as
a 4" high wood auxilary fence to which a piece of laminate has been applied
at the back end. The router table jointing fence is similar.

Another tablesaw jointing method is to build a long sliding table. This is a
piece of plywood/particle board that has a bar underneath for fit the miter
gauge slot. Attach a cleat at the pushing end, maybe some sandpaper on
the surface, to hold the board. Then, push it through the saw. This method
is actually faster than a jointer for really curved edges since there are
no depth of cut limitations. However, the length is limited to the length
of your sliding table, and the finish may not be as good as a jointer. A quick
pass with a hand plane, however, will give you the best quality edge possible.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: davallen@vms.macc.wisc.edu
Subject: Re: Repair of Countertop
Organization:  University of Wisconsin Academic Computing Center
Distribution:  world
Date: 14 DEC 92 11:00:40    

In article <1992Dec11.230830.7423@iitmax.iit.edu>, SULLRON@MINNA.IIT.EDU (USERS) writes...

>I have just completed sinking a 2' x 3' maple breadboard in 
>my counter.  Upon cleanup of the tools and equipment
>I dropped my drill and chipped the plastic laminate counter top.
>Does anyone have any suggestions for filling in the hole?
>It's about .25" in diameter, I have the pieces, but they don't
>fit really well.  The top is off white with a light gold mottled
>pattern on it.
> 
>thanks for the help!
> 

I fixed one of my classic DUMB blunders on a counter top (ran a couple of
screws thru the top from underneath) by drilling out the bad spot VERY
CAREFULLY with a good 1/2" bit, and then using a 1/2" plug cutter to cut 
a matching plug out of a piece of scrap countertop.  Glued the plug in & 
it looks ALMOST as good as new...  (getting the right depth/thickness is
the real trick here)

	Dave Allen
	Space Science & Engr. Ctr.
	UW-Madison
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: dnsurber@lescsse.jsc.nasa.gov (Douglas N. Surber)
Subject: Re: What about Unisaw competitors?
Organization: Lockheed Engineering and Sciences
Distribution: na
Date: 15 Dec 92 19:30:40 GMT

In <1992Dec15.005355.29510@adobe.com> bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds) writes:

>For less than the $1500 or so the Hitachi bandsaw would cost you, you 
>could get something like the MiniMax 18" bandsaw, which will resaw 10"
>and has a tilting table (as well as induction motor).

Yes, but does it have a three inch blade?  Three inch bandsaw blades are
manly and I use only manly tools.  Of course a seven horse, three phase,
220 volt, induction motor wouldn't hurt. :)

Thanks for your input.  I guess I'm going to have to track down some more
info on the General and the Davis & Wells.  If anyone has copies of the
thread on Davis & Wells table saws, I would appreciate it if you would
mail me a copy at dnsurber@blkbox.com.  You can't mail to me here.
Thanks.


--
Douglas Surber             "Would you rather debug at
Lockheed                    compile time or run time?"
Houston, TX                      --Michael B. Feldman
From: wack@ariel.ncsl.nist.gov (John Wack)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: French Dovetails?
Date: 18 Dec 92 17:58:59 GMT
Organization: National Institute of Standards & Technology

In article <32920014@hpcuhe.cup.hp.com> kkc@hpcuhe.cup.hp.com (Ken Chan) writes:
>Hi,
>     I'm going to build a small cabinet with thru dovetails to join the 
>top and carcass sides.  To keep the end of the tails from showing on 
>the sides, I've seen molding applied to the front and side top edges.  
>My question is, what is the best way to attach the molding to the
>sides?  Since the top & sides will expand along the length of the molding,
>                                     I can't just glue the molding.  I've
>

I've made a dresser with the same design - thru dovetails so that the
pins show at the top, with molding around the sides and front.  I didn't
use the french dovetail method you included in your posting, but rather
glued the three pieces of molding together at the mitered joints, glued
the front piece of molding to the top (grain of molding and top run the
same direction), and then glued the first inch or so of the side pieces
to the dresser sides.  I then put a few small nails along the rest of 
the side pieces to hold them in place.

Now, how's it held up?  This dresser is solid cherry, about 20" deep, so
there's noticable wood movement.  But the molding pieces have held up
well -- the top and sides of the dresser are still free to move and the
molding has remained in place.  It's not as flush as when first attached,
but still very respectable.

Who knows whether I'll need to do some maintenance after 10 years or so?
Could be.  I know that Thos Moser uses french dovetails now to join
molding to cases, however Moser has the tools and talent to do it - I
don't and didn't think it was worth it - the dresser I built presented
so many other challenges to spend time on.  On the other hand, now 
that I have a router table, the french dovetails don't look too hard...

Hmmm.  My advice is that if everything on your case is "right on," i.e.,
all things square and true, go for the french dovetails - why not?  But,
if things aren't perfectly true, you may have to "adjust" your molding
to account for that - miters and other cuts at something different 
that 90 degrees.  In that case, maybe french dovetails would add to 
the hassle without buying you all that much.

Good luck,
John Wack
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: Jointer vs Planer
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 19:42:37 GMT

JAMES A. MC LENNAN writes
>...I get rough-cut cherry for about $1.75 vs. about
> $5.00 for planed.

Ummm, $3.25 per foot for planing wood is an order of magnitude most
expensive than I've ever heard of before. Around here (No. CA), planing
is about $.20/ft.  What else is going on here?

Perhaps you meant $4.75 for rough, or maybe $2.00 for planed?

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com

> One thing about the planer- it makes a humongous
> amount of dust so put it in the garage instead of the basement.

Better yet, rig up a hood and use a dust collector/vacuum.
From: Treble@asc.slb.com (John Treble)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Safest way to use radial arm saw?
Followup-To: rec.woodworking
Date: 18 Dec 1992 15:55:01 GMT
Organization: Austin Systems Center -Schlumberger
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: asc438.asc.slb.com

This may sound like a stupid question, but I'll risk the ridicule
anyway....

My father died recently and I inherited his old Sear radial arm saw.  I
have only part
of the owners manual. Unfortunately, the part that descibes the setup of
the table is missing.  I would like to know what the safest recommended way
to use this saw.
Do I set up the fence so that the saw is parked the furthest away from me
behind the fence? Or do I park the saw closest to me in front of the fence?
 Is it best to push the blade through the work, or pull it through the
work?

I also have one of those wobbling dado heads, and consider it to be the
most vicious tool I've ever seen!  How do you put the guard on that beast?

Thanks for all responses in advance!
John Treble

treble@asc.slb.com "My humble, but accurate, opinion does not necessarily
reflect that of my employer. I get full credit for my insightful and witty
comments!"
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Kid's safety goggles -- revisted
Date: 15 Dec 92 06:42:24 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <1g5cmiINNct5@roche.csl.sri.com> sgarcia@cisco.com (Steven Garcia) writes:
>Thanks to all who responded to my query for a source of safety
>goggles for children.  A tip from a net reader led me to Lee
>Valley Tools (613)596-0350.  For $6.95 (Canadian funds) plus
>shipping, I received just what I needed.

Glad to hear that it was the right thing.  Gregory always runs
off and finds his whenever he has to "help" daddy do something.

>Lee Valley also sent an amazing catalog.

It is amazing isn't it?  Can you imagine what it must be like
living 15 minutes away from one of their showrooms?

TOY STORE!!!!! ;-)

Gregory has been specially trained to blab to mommy whenever we
visit...

>Apparently they
>specialize in hand tools, and I DO mean "hand tools".  There were
>maybe a maximum of 10 items in the large catalog that required
>electricity -- no power saws or blades, no routers or bits, no
>nothing that wasn't powered with human muscle and care.

Um, er, they do have table saw blades, router bits, and other
power tool bits.  But, aside from a lathe and some Excalibur
scroll saws, no power tools - Legere, is, after all, just down
the street ;-)  They used to sell Inca equipment, but not anymore.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
From: fkilpatr@afit.af.mil (Freeman A. Kilpatrick)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Piano Kits?
Keywords: piano
Date: 14 Dec 92 18:37:22 GMT
Article-I.D.: afit.1992Dec14.183722.5106
Organization: Air Force Institute of Technology

Has anyone ever seen a hardware kit for a piano?  The woodworking part doesn't seem
like it would be difficult for a simple upright model.  I have been looking at
pianos lately and they are way expensive.  I don't know much about piano making, or
if a kit is even feasible, but it should save a lot of money.

Anyone know anything about this?

ak
-- 
Alex Kilpatrick  fkilpatr@afit.af.mil  
"There are also persistant rumors that IBM will soon offer a hard-disk drive, 
an expensive accessory that only a businessman would want..."
--- Popular Computing, December 1981
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: kamooni@pb2esac.uucp (Ken Moonitz)
Subject: Re: dowels vs dados vs t&g
Organization: Pacific*Bell ESAC, Oakland, CA.
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 20:52:03 GMT

>
>First, Lamello makes a smaller diameter "face-frame" blade. I forget the 
>model number, but Highland Hardware sells it. It takes a new size of face
>frame biscuit, which is shorter than a #0, but much deeper. The blade 

The small biscuit smaller than a #0 is a #9.    
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: brown@venus.iucf.indiana.edu (Robert J. Brown)
Subject: Re: re: Jointer vs Planer - Thanks
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.3-4   
Reply-To: brown@venus.iucf.indiana.edu
Organization: IUCF
Distribution:  na
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 15:11:27 GMT

In article <4320088@hpcc01.corp.hp.com>, gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
writes about all the reasons to own a jointer (deleted)...
> 
>gph
> 
 Nice summary Paul! Now I'm really excited about getting my new jointer!!
Oh oh, gotta go to the can now :-)...

   ____________________________________________________________
  /\                                                           \____
 /\\\  Robert J. Brown                       Bitnet:BROWN@IUCF  \   \
 \\\\\   Indiana University                     _____________    \   \
  \\\\\____  Cyclotron Facility                 \           /\    \   \
   \\\/   /\    Phone: (812)855-9365             \_________/\\\    \   \
    \/___/\\\_____________________________________\ enjoy  \\\\\____\   \
         \\\/               ____                  /   your  \\\/    /____\
          \/________________\ \/_________________/     shop  \/__________/

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: rdc@world.std.com (Ralph D Clifford)
Subject: Colonial Williamsburg
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 02:25:59 GMT

     I just got back from a trip to Williamsburg, VA.  I got to spend
about 4 hours in the cabinet shop at Colonial Williamsburg.  I highly
recommend it, even for those of us who are power machine junkies.

     The shop does work according to the style, and with the tools
available, in 1600-1700.  They are very knowledgeable about handtools
therefore.  But most of all, they understand cabinet making.

     They were working on a gentlemen's desk when I was there.  It was
made as a chest on chest, with the bottom unit holding 3 regular drawers
and one desk-top drawer and the top unit holding many small drawers and a
set of cubby-holes.  The primary wood was black walnut (They were using
wood from a 36" in diameter walnut tree that had blown down in
Williamsburg).  The secondary wood was southern yellow pine.  The unit was
spectacular.

     The most interesting things they talked about was how they build the
cabinet to survive climatic changes.  The slides that the draws run on,
for example, were not made up of single pieces of wood; rather, they used
about 8 small pieces with a slight gap between each.  When the drawer
bottom expanded, the gaps would close; when it dried out, the gaps would
re-open.

     If y'all get a chance, it is worth the visit.

 
-- 
Ralph Clifford
rdc@world.std.com (Internet)

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: SULLRON@MINNA.IIT.EDU (USERS)
Subject: Repair of Countertop
Organization: ILLINOIS INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY, CHICAGO
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 92 23:08:30 GMT
X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.24

I have just completed sinking a 2' x 3' maple breadboard in 
my counter.  Upon cleanup of the tools and equipment
I dropped my drill and chipped the plastic laminate counter top.
Does anyone have any suggestions for filling in the hole?
It's about .25" in diameter, I have the pieces, but they don't
fit really well.  The top is off white with a light gold mottled
pattern on it.

thanks for the help!

Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 18 Dec 1992 11:33:54 EST
Comments:     Converted from PROFS to RFC822 format by PUMP V2.2
From:         Bill McGeehan <IRMTAQA2@SIVM.BITNET>
Subject:      Pressure Treated Plywood Question

From: Bill McGeehan
  Does anyone know if pressure treated plywood shrinks? Common
sense tells me it wouldn't be possible, because the layers are at
opposite angles and would oppose the forces involved. However, a
normally reliable source tells me that it does shrink.
  I want to use some on a deck that will be exposed for, oh about
a year, then it will be covered over and made into a sunroom. I
haven't decided on a flooring for the finished sunroom yet. I don't
want to get involved in putting down regular plywood and then
painting it to keep the rain out for just one year.

Bill McGeehan, Smithsonian Institution
OIRM Computer Security Manager
Internet: IRMTAQA2@SIVM.SI.EDU
Bitnet:   IRMTAQA2@SIVM       Voice: (202) 633-9035
From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 18:39:12 GMT
Subject: Re: Bad experience w/Shields Supply
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds) writes:
>UNCDWC@UNCVM1.BITNET writes
>> On Thu, 10 Dec 1992 08:14:35 EST Bramel, Jim said:
>> >That is why I buy a lot of stuff from Sears.  Satisfied or money
>> >refunded.  I have never had a problem returning anything.
>
>It's true that Sears has a good return policy. The bad thing is, I always 
>ended up using it. Having to return a tool means that I've wasted my 
>time, possibly ruined some wood, and is just a hassle. Now that I don't
>buy Sears tools, I rarely have to return things.
>----------
 
   I second that!

   Not to mention that Sears overprices their tools UNBELIEVABLY!

   Example:  Their latest jointer "sale".  For ~ $440, you get a $250
   jointer with an end-mounted fence.  

   Then there is their rediculous claims about motor horsepower.  Any other
   vendor would call a motor 3/4 HP induction (you can tell because it
   draws 8 amps).   Sears calls it a 2 HP motor.   In small print they 
   say "developed horsepower".   This means that it will develop 2 horsepower
   just before the overloaded motor burns up.

   On the other hand, occasionally they do have good sales, but you really
   have to shop.
From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1992 17:41:42 GMT
Subject: Re: Artisan Table Saw
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

pictures@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu (Bill Wiegand) writes:
>
>I was in my local Ace Hardware store earlier today and wandered into
>their "industrial" power and hand tool area to check out their advertised
>Bosch products.  While there I saw an Artisan table saw.  I've never heard
>of that brand and the saw look very nice and was equipped with Vega  
>stationary and sliding fences.  The saw looked a lot like Delta
>Contractors saw.  Anyone ever heard of Artisan power tools?  
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Bill Wiegand
>pictures@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu
>----------

  That was probably the Powermatic Artisan saw.   I don't think you will
  find any Artisan power tools around, but you will find some Powermatic
  tools.

  The Powermatic saws usually come with either a Biesmeyer or Vega fence.
  The Powermatic Artisan is, I think, meant to compete with the Delta
  Contractor's saw.
From: garry@alice.att.com (garry hodgson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Finishing walnut
Date: 16 Dec 92 15:47:55 GMT
Article-I.D.: alice.24420
Reply-To: garry@alice.UUCP ()
Distribution: rec
Organization: AT&T, Bell Labs

bednarek@picard.med.ge.com (Dennis Bednarek Mfg 4-6971) writes:

  However if you already oiled the surface regardless of how long
  wait for the oil to dry make sure that whatever you use works
  with that oil.  I recked a great table by deciding to spray it
  polyutethane varnish after applying danish oil several years back.

Pardon my ignorance (newbitude), but why did this wreck the table?
Are some finishes incompatible with oil?  Or is it just
danish oil?  I've heard of mnixtures of poly and tung oil, f'rinstance.

-- 
Garry Hodgson			A slow winter day
AT&T Bell Labs			A night like forever
garry@alice.att.com		Sink like a stone
att!alice!garry			Float like a feather
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: asket@acad2.alaska.edu
Subject: Bandsaws & Sears flame
Organization: University of Alaska
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1992 00:25:55 GMT

I just bought a Delta 8" bandsaw, and I love it.  I happened to get a
great price on it ($130, the store was selling off their Delta tools),
but even for the more common price of $160-200, I think it's great.
I'm even using it to do some things I would normally have used my
piece-of-junk, wish-I-never-bought-it, I'll-never-buy-Sears-again table
saw for...
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: Fix scratch in CD?
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 19:06:02 GMT

ron@topaz.bds.com (Ron Natalie) writes:
: The problem is that the optical surface of a CD is fairly robust (they
: did the right thing here), the non-label side (which is the side that
: the laser is reading), is nicely protected by a big hunk of plastic.
: If that is scratched, polishing it might help.
: 
: However, that's probably not what got trashed.  The top side of the CD
: (the label) is really the back side of a thin coating of aluminum where
: the information is recording.  If that gets scratched or dented, you're
: out of luck. (Yes, this is stupid).

Nope. The person stated that the disc played fine on the home system.
Thus, the data is probably not damaged - most likely, the damage is to
the protective coating on the playing surface, which will scatter the
laser light and cause a misread.

Bill