HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: pshyvers@pyrnova.mis.pyramid.com (Peter Shyvers)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: oxygen sensor
Date: 10 Oct 92 21:56:03 GMT
Reply-To: pshyvers@pyrnova.pyramid.com (Peter Shyvers)
Organization: Pyramid Technology Corp., Mountain View, CA

In article <1992Oct6.141703.21791@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> dje@sword.bellcore.com (Don Eilenberger) writes:
>In article <1aqrk1INNads@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>, aa650@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Marc Snitzer) writes:
>|> 
>|> I have a Toyota '86 Van with fuel injection.  The maintenance
>|> schedule says to replace the oxygen sensor at 60K miles.  I now
>|> have over 70K and it's still running fine on the orig sensor.
>|> Any comments on if it should be replaced?  There "eng" light has
>
>Mark... the typical failure mode of Ox sensors is a slow degradation
>in it's response time to changing Ox concentrations... typical
>symptoms:
>
>	1. Engine surging while at speed (mixture being richened, and
>	then leaned).
>	2. Poor fuel milage (computer tends to err on the rich side
>	when sensors start to go).
>	3. Poor quality idle - sometimes - sensor indicates lean mixture
>	and computer richen's it up...
>
<excellent discussion of mechanics of the sensor)

I'll vouch for fix-it-even-if-not-broken. We have a 1987 Celebrity Wagon with
the 2.5L 4-cyl. - a bit undergunned for the 8 seats provided, but when the
engine is running well, it's great!

I posted a few weeks ago with some of the above symptoms, plus more: the thing
would absolutely bog down when you accelerated under any kind of load. It 
would almost fail to idle, esp. if you threw in the A/C - and this was a car
that *charmed* me when I bought it (used) 'cause it was a real smooth idle
in spite of the 4-cyl. It'd spew loads of black smoke almost every time you
jumped on it - a rare thing in the days of converter-equipped cars...

It was the damned O2 sensor. The GM dealer swapped it in an hour, and the car
has been a champ since. Oh, yes - 72K miles on it, assuming it wasn't replaced
in the 19K miles before I had it. Like replacing points in 1960's cars: cheap
insurance.

pete
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: pcotton@vax.clarku.edu
Subject: Subaru radiator replacement question
Organization: Clark University
Date: 14 OCT 92 01:17:18 GMT

I have a 1988 SubarGL wageon with 75K miles.  The radiator is beginning to
show signs of corrosion on the outside.  The dealer is recommending that I
replace the radiator.  I have two radiators to choose from: 1) a genuine
Subaru radiator now made with alluminium or 2) an after market radiator that
is similar to the original.  The latter is about $150 - $200 cheaper than the
former.  I do plan to keep the car until it dies.  The cost to install the
Subaru radiator (with new hose and thermostat) is around $420.  Is it reason-
able to expect that the genuine alluminium Subaru radiator will last long
enough to justify its higher cost?

Thanks,

Page Cotton
pcotton@vax.clarku.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
From: brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks)
Subject: Re: Ford Escort Problems
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 14:11:33 GMT

In article <13234@traffic> owen@Software.Mitel.COM (Blake Owen) writes:
>In article <1992Oct13.203951.12484@rs6000.cmp.ilstu.edu> crpresto@rs6000.cmp.ilstu.edu (Charlie Preston) writes:
>
>>Perhaps the best thing to do is just replace the timing belt at 60k intervals.
>>My brother's '85 broke the belt but no engine damage was done.  I understand
>>that some earlier Escorts would damage the valves.  It should be considered a
>>scheduled maintenance item for your car.
>>
>>Chas
>
>Is this true for all cars with timing belts?  There was a recommendation
>in BOLD LETTERS in my '81 Escort owner's manual to replace the
>belt at 100,000 Km (which I did.)  The owner's manual for my '88
>Sunbird has no such statment, nor could I find one in the shop manual.
>Being really paranoid, I phoned the Service Department of a Pontiac dealer
>and they didn't know anything about scheduled replacement of the belt
>either.  
>
As far as replacing the timing belt - in the immortal words of the Nike
commercial "Just do it!"

I have seen both timing belts and timing chains let go, much to the dismay of
the owner/driver. If you're lucky, all that will happen is you're left 
stranded on the side of the road. If you're not so lucky, you get to do a
valve job too.

BTW timing chains go out too. In GM cars, often it's the timing _gear_ that
strips its teeth - many of them have _nylon_ teeth. I was in a friend's car
that ate a timing gear once. WE were riding along minding our own business
when suddenly the car stopped - just like someone shut off the ignition.
We got towed back & put in a new gear and chain set. About a thousand miles 
later, he lost oil pressure and had to replace the oil pump too. Those
wonderful nylon teeth that stripped off had clogged the oil pump. The moral
of the story is replace stuff like this _before_ it breaks.
 
Ted Brooks
 ______________________________________________________________________
| Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are my own, and do not reflect    |
| those of my employer. Advice is free, but you get what you pay for.  |
|                               ________                               |
|                         _____|  1955  |_______                       |
|                        /      Chevrolet      /                       |
|                       /______  BelAir  _____/                        |
|                              |________|                              |
|______________________________________________________________________|
From: kdrolt@athena.mit.edu (Kenneth D Rolt)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: electronic rustproofing.
Summary: my 2-cents worth
Date: 10 Oct 92 16:05:48 GMT
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology

an inexpensive sacraficial anode is the old 1-cent penny.  the exterior
of pennies since circa early 80s (don't recall the exact date... you'll have
to ask a coin collector) is copper plate, but the rest is zinc.  i think zinc
is also used in cathode-anode passive electrical rust protection.  sanding
off the copper will reveal the zinc interior.  
i have used non-U.S. pennies for such purpose in ocean eng. buoys.....defacing
US coinage is a violation of federal laws..... so use foreign coins (unless
you can get some zinc elsewhere.   my 2 cents worth... :-)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- 
	R   2	      Real Monza	     kdrolt@athena.mit.edu
	|___|					grad student !!
	|   |	'64 Corvair Convertible      mit ocean engineering
	1   3					underwater sound
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ericc@Arco.COM (Chang Eric(214)754-3562)
Subject: Saturn corrosive coolant rumor
Organization: ARCO Oil and Gas Company
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 16:24:33 GMT

I just heard that Saturn pulled something like 5000 cars from their line
due to the discovery that their cooling systems were filled with some
kind of corrosive chemical.  Is this true?  What happened to the automobiles
after they were pulled?                     Eric

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jim@mwhhlaw (James P. Cavanaugh III)
Subject: Re: Radials on '60s era cars?
Organization: Martin Wade Hartley & Hollingsworth
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 12:46:51 GMT

In article <1992Oct7.214440.4916@clipper.ingr.com>  
greeven@clipper.ingr.com (John Greeven) writes:
> I have a '66 Buick with Bias Ply tires which are all but worn out.  
> Replacements are available though quite expensive due to their
> increasing rarity.  I'm considering putting on radial tires but
> am concerned of potential incompatibility.  Although I've seen
> many '60s era cars with radials I've also heard that the suspensions
> were not designed for radials and the combination can be bad or
> even dangerous.  At the very least I would only consider putting on 
> 4 new radials and not mixing radial and bias ply tires, right?
> 
> A second factor is that the old bias ply tires had relatively low  
tread
> wear.  I'm not sure whether this is more due to the tire type  
(probably)
> than to the weight of the car (4000+ lbs).  
> 
> Any thoughts or personal experience with this would be greatly 
> appreciated.
> 
> 
> John
> greeven@clipper.ingr.com

	I can heartily recommend radials on older cars.  My first  
experience was with a 71 plymouth Scamp.  I had always heard that, at  
most, the problems would be a low speed noise or ride harshness.  I  
have never found any such problem.  Anyone with Valiant/Dart experience  
will tell you that a good ride was not among their many attributes.   
(Especially when they have over 100k miles.)  After the radials went  
on, that car rode like a Cadillac, by comparison.  The greater flex in  
the sidewalls absorbed a lot of road shock that previously reached the  
drivers seat.  The only other side effect is that the radials are much  
"stickier".  With bias ply tires, you will run out of tire traction  
before you run out of suspension travel.  With radials, the increase in  
traction may make your suspension seem overly soft.  I generally went  
with somewhat stiffer shocks to help the suspension take better  
advantage of the better tires.
	The results with my 66 Fury III were pretty much the same.   
Rode smoother, but leaned over more in hard turns (which would have had  
tires sliding previously).  I never noticed any unusual noise or  
harshness.

Jim Cavanaugh
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sysmatt@aix3090b.uky.edu (Matt Simpson)
Subject: Re: General question re: old Ford trucks ('70-79)
Organization: University Of Kentucky, Dept. of Math Sciences
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 10:41:53 GMT

michaeln@hpcvnb.CV.HP.COM (Mike_Nason) writes:


>   Well I can't answer all your questions but, I would mention that the 
>F150 designation didn't come about until about '76 or so. By then they 
>were "Unleaded". 
 My 77 F150 was not "unleaded" ... no catalytic converter, full-size
 fuel filler opening to accomodate the larger leaded nozzles ...
 no decals reading "unleaded fuel only"
>   Also, they built heavy 1/2 ton pick-ups before they went to the 
>F150 designation.  One thing you need to look at is which engine you
>want to run. Ford ran the 360 cid thru about 76 in the 4x4's and ran
>360's,302's,390's, and 351's in the 2 wheel drives and in about 76/78
>added the 460, 351m,400c etc...
 I've got the 351M
>   After about 73 most of the engines had induction hardened valve seats
>to make up for the loss in lead in the fuel. It is to keep the valve seats
>from wearing out. 
>   If your looking for a F150 4x4 anything around a 77 with a 4 sp and 
>part time xfer case would be a good choice.
 That's exactly what I have ... 77 F150 4x4, 4-speed bulldog, 
 2-range xfer case, manual locking hubs ... it's a tough mother ..
 but I recently did have to spend $1100 getting the transmission and
xfer case rebuilt because the shaft splines were worn.
>                Mike Nason

--
This signature file exists because our crappy newsreader won't work without it.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
From: dhepner@cup.hp.com (Dan Hepner)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Cummins mail list
Date: 12 Oct 92 23:37:29 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1scd1 PL4


A "cummins" mail list is established to discuss Cummins diesel truck
engines.

To get on this list (or off of this list), send email with subject
"add to cummins", or "delete from cummins", and in the body your
email address name to cummins-request@hpukldh.cup.hp.com.  (If
you own a diesel engine powered truck, we would be pleased to 
include the description in your entry as well).  Please do not
expect that the email address which your mailer supplies will
be sufficient. To mail to the list itself, mail to 
cummins@hpukldh.cup.hp.com.  As usual, if mail to you bounces 
for very long, your name will be dropped from the list.  Here's
a sample entry suitable to make my life easy:
  dhepner@cup.hp.com (Dan Hepner, 1992 Dodge W250 Cummins, 1982 Nissan diesel)

It would be most appropriate if you send any relevant comments you might
have to the list rather than to me personally in your request to be 
added.  Add requests will receive a welcome message, a variant of this 
posting, as an acknowledgement.

Membership of the list will be sent to the list occasionally, and 
within reason, to anyone upon demand. It is not confidential.

All suitable for discussion:

1. Differences in the different model years of Dodge diesels.
2. Fuel additives.
3. Diesel injection pump modifications and good pump shops.
4. Diesel engine design questions.
5. Difference in GM/Ford/Dodge diesel products.
6. Differences and similarities to large Cummins engines.
7. Increasing longevity and/or performance of diesel powered trucks.
8. Oil questions (maybe even synthetic questions).
9. Owner/dealership horror stories.
10. Truck modifications.
11. 4-Wheelin' using diesel power.
12. Automatic vs 5-speed.

And maybe the most fun:

Banks Engineering's claim to increase both horsepower and torque by 
~40% by simply bolting on a more efficient exhaust and a more efficient
intercooler to the Dodge Cummins offering, for ~$1300.

Dan Hepner
From: bense@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ron Bense)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Speed rated tires
Date: 15 Oct 92 14:25:19 GMT
Reply-To: bense@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ronald Bense)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.autos.tech, michael@maine.maine.edu (Michael Johnson) writes:
>The speed ratings I am aware of (going progressively upward in max speed) are
>"H", "V", and "Z". There is another rating for lower speed tires. And no, I
>don't remember exactly what speeds these ratings are for.

There are the following, which are fairly close if not exact:
R - standard, 90 mph (R is actually for radial, no speed rating means
     a minimum of 90 mph)
S - 112 mph, rare
T - don't remember
H - 130 mph
V - 145 or 150 mph - I think this is somewhat specific to the tire in question
Z - >150 mph, specific to tire manufacturer and tire.

Ron                          Think about this one (seen on a bumper sticker):
			     The road to hell is bumper-to-bumper
			     Make a U-turn to God.
The irony is priceless.
From: awds_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (ClarkKent)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: 4w disc brakes
Date: 7 Oct 92 21:58:36 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: University of Rochester - Rochester, New York

Has anyone had experience with replacing 4 wheel disc brakes
on a car?  After a long trip this weekend, I decided my brakes
needed looking at.  Well, a trip to my Goodyear Dealer yielded
an estimate to replace both front+rear rotors, all pads, fluid, etc,
of 610$!  Arrrrrgh!  

So I went to Pep Boys, they quoted 480$ for the same job.

Midas said 970$ because the ABS sensors are on the rotors.  However,
I'm getting a call from the manager tomorrow because of their
advertised matching of competition.  That's such a vast range of
prices for the same job.  All rotors would be new, pads metallic
with lifetime guarantee, I believe.  Has anyone had any dealings
with Pep Boys?  Why do I think this is too much money?  Please email
or post with any comments, flames, grants, etc.  Thanks

		Adam Edwards
awds_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty)
Subject: Re: oxygen sensor
Organization: New York State Institute for Sebastian Cabot Studies
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 18:10:50 GMT

In article <28940@life.ai.mit.edu> pwu@oreo.ai.mit.edu (Peng Wu) writes:
>My $0.02:
>
>Assume the oxygen senser can work for 60k under any situation.  So, if I
>drive the car at 20mph for 60k, it should be working fine up to then.

o2 sensor life will be 30k to 60k, depending on the manufacturer.  bosch
units seem to have a useful life of nearly 60k; other makers seem closer
to 30k.

a car with a bad o2 sensor will tend to run rather badly; you can check
if the o2 sensor is the problem by disconnecting the sensor wire and
grounding the wire going to the ECU, which will cause the motor to run
full rich.  the motor should run better immediately, but will probably
fail to pass any emissions testing with the sensor wire crowbarred like
this.  leaving the ECU wire hanging unconnected will make the motor run
full lean; this is not recommended.

>  It
>seems reasonable to assume that the senser life should be measured in time in
>use.  Therefore, it is reasonable to assume that the senser will be fine up to
>150k if I drive the car at 50mph.

no (explitive deleted) way.

>Anyway, since oxygen senser failure seldom leaves one on road, I would prefer
>to wait for a sign of unadequate performence before I replace it.

better to diagnose it properly; grounding the ECU wire is enough to see
what is going on.

richard
-- 
richard welty                            518-393-7228
welty@cabot.balltown.cma.com
  ``if you can read this, mario, you're too close''
    -- bumper sticker seen on a CART safety truck
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
From: RZAA80@email.sps.mot.com (Jim Chott)
Subject: Re: Ford Escort Problems
Organization: Motorola SPS
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 17:37:37 GMT

In article <1bf6t1INNf29@bigboote.WPI.EDU>, jayg@wpi.WPI.EDU (Jay Giurleo) writes:
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
>  I own a 1986 Ford Escort.  I was speaking with a mechanic today who
> mentioned that at around 60K miles, bad (terminal) things might
> start happening to my engine.  Specifically, he mentioned a chronic
> problem with timing belts.  Can someone comment on this for me? If this
> truly is a problem, what's the best method for fixing it?
> 
My nephew bought my 86 Escort and its timing belt broke at 60k + miles
due to the water pump siezing up.  Ripped all the teeth off the belt and
bent the water pump shaft.  You might want to replace the water pump while
you are in there.  The valve train was *not* damaged by this episode
however.  I believe Ford changed to pistons with valve reliefs cut in 
them after 84.

Jim
From: pwu@oreo.ai.mit.edu (Peng Wu)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: oxygen sensor
Date: 7 Oct 92 14:55:10 GMT
In-reply-to: dje@needle.Berkeley.EDU's message of 6 Oct 92 14:17:03 GMT

My $0.02:

Assume the oxygen senser can work for 60k under any situation.  So, if I
drive the car at 20mph for 60k, it should be working fine up to then.  It
seems reasonable to assume that the senser life should be measured in time in
use.  Therefore, it is reasonable to assume that the senser will be fine up to
150k if I drive the car at 50mph.  If we can assume that low speed driving is
more demanding on the senser...

Anyway, since oxygen senser failure seldom leaves one on road, I would prefer
to wait for a sign of unadequate performence before I replace it.

Any buyers?
From: dlhpfm!tawdlw!tom@abvax.icd.ab.com (Tom Walters)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Diacom "Software scantool", anyone own this product?
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 92 01:10:42 EDT
Organization: Southbridge Nights Computing


There has been a lot of traffic lately concerning the GM diagnostics
harness, scan tools, etc.  And it was mentioned that a company by the name
of Rinda Technologies (?) has a software product available called Diacom. 

I have contacted Rinda, and received literature regarding the Diacom and
Diacom Plus packages and they appear to be a reasonably priced replacement
for a scan tool (I already have a 386 laptop computer).  

I was wondering if anyone has actually purchased and used one of the
Diacom packages.  If so, what are your opinions??

Thanks

+-----------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Tom Walters                                                           |
| Southbridge Nights Computing                                          |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------+
From: rmh@itd.dsto.gov.au (Roger Helbig)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Low oil pressure gauge reading
Date: 14 Oct 92 17:44:00 GMT
Reply-To: rmh@itd.dsto.gov.au
Organization: Defence Science & Technology Organisation


Hi, I've been wondering about the oil pressure readings I've been
getting in my '81 Datsun/Nissan.  The dashboard gauge is calibrated
with a "6" (psi ?) at full scale.  At normal engine speeds it reads
4 to 5 and all is fine.  When idling at a red light, however, the
needdle drops way down to 1 or lower.

Does anyone know the most likely cause?  It seems to me that either
my oil pump is not working well at low revs, OR the sensor for the
gauge behaves non-linearly when the pressure drops a bit (or maybe
both!)  Any ideas?

-=-
Roger
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jimo@navaho.uucp (25656-o'keefe)
Subject: Drivetrain Vibration
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 92 14:01:49 GMT
Keywords: auto, repairs


Episode 3 of my drivetrain vibration saga.

** I'll spare everyone the gory details of what I've tried so far! **

I have an 87 Chevy G20 Conversion Van that has had a drivetrain
vibration since I bought it last April.  The vibration is felt thru
the seat and most noticeable on low-speed Acceleration and at highway
speeds. 

Summary of what I tried...

Eliminated other components:
            1) Replaced rear outer axle bearings (a little noisy)
            2) Inspected motor and trans mounts
            3) Temporarily replaced my two-piece shaft with a single and
		  vibration was eliminated... Couldn't keep one-piece
                  shaft due to undercarriage interference!

Driveshaft changes:
            1)Replaced all u-joint bearings and center support bearing
                  on original shaft (no improvement)
            2)Had original shaft dynamically balanced (checked-out ok)
            2)Install used shaft (from wreckers) (no improvement)

The two shafts I now have (orig. & used) are both transmitting the
about the same degree of vibration.  The way I see it, this means that
either I have TWO bad driveshafts or I need to keep looking...

A possible clue::
The HELM shop manual indicates the "vibration on Acceleration" could be
due to "improper front joint alignment".  I think the text is referring
to the alignment between the trans and the center support bearing.  The
text say that this alignment can be corrected by "shimming the trans
mount".  Unfortunately the manual does NOT say what the correct "front
joint alignment" should be.  Assuming it should be straight on (0
angle), then the trans is actually too high in relation to the center
bearing support.  I can't raise the center bearing or lower the
trans without modifying the trans mount bushing.   

Question:
How critical is this alignment?  If it should be dead on, then should I
trim the trans bushing to lower the trans?

ANY GM GURUs out there?

Thanks in advance for your input...

Jim
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: fridman@cpsc.ucalgary.ca (Robert Fridman)
Subject: EXTRUDEhone port/polish
Organization: UofC cpsc
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 21:47:51 GMT


Has anyone tried the EXTRUDEhome process to port/polish the heads?
This process uses an abrasive paste under pressure instead of a grinder
to alter the shape of the ports.  The add I saw claimed about 25% increase 
in flow over stock.

Does this process REALLY work?  Are there any dangers (does it open up the 
ports to much or damage the valve seats)?

Would an experienced tuner be able to do a better or comparable job?

Thanks in advance,

	RF.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mmr@asgserver.canberra.edu.au (Micheal Rainford-Watson)
Subject: Re: Time of the day and Filling up
Organization: University of Canberra
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 92 04:40:34 GMT

This reminds me of a friend of mind who drove a fuel tanker. He would fill the
tanker at night (say X litres). He had to deliver to remote areas which where
quite hot during the day (+40 C). Not only did he deliver X litres but had
enough left in the tanker to fill up the truck.


-- 
Micheal Rainford-Watson        _--_|\   E-Mail: mmr@asgserver.canberra.edu.au
Administrative Systems Group  /      \  Phone : +61 6 201 2397
University of Canberra        \_.--.*/  Mail  : PO Box 1 BELCONNEN ACT 2616
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^v^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP