HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: scol@scottsdale.az.stratus.com (Scott Colbath)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Marble Molly full of lust.
Date: 30 Sep 92 17:49:24 GMT

My male Marble Molly will not leave my female Silver Molly alone. Obviously a  
mating thing going on. I am afraid that the male is ging to run the female to  
death. One person suggested adding another female to the tank to allow one or  
the other to have a rest from time to time. If my tank was not cycling, I might  
add another female (although I don't want one). What could I do for now?

I also have a 1.5 gallon tank with a Betta all alone and a 10 gallon with 2  
Goldfish, each being about 2 inches in size. Would either Molly adjust to one  
of the other two tanks if I decided to separate them?
--
**********************************************************
Scott Colbath
Stratus Computer
Phoenix, Az.  (602)852-3106
Internet:scott_colbath@az.stratus.com
**********************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: mattk@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (matthew.kaufman)
Subject: Re: Need Help Growing Brine Shrimp
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 14:42:42 GMT
Summary:  In praise of wild brine shrimp

In article <yb!p4yn.oleg@netcom.com> oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev) writes:
>In article <39133@fibercom.COM> lab@fibercom.COM (Lance Beckner) writes:
>>I am trying to grow Brine Shrimp to maturity (so my Bettas will have
>
I agree with Oleg - it's a waste of time to grow brine shrimp, they're too
easy to buy in the shop and safe for freshwater fish (not necessarily the
case for saltwater.)

>I have a 5 gal bucket 1/2 full of brine from a local salt marsh water
>hole where I collected brine shrimp some months back (MattK, when was
>that?).  As long as I remember to add some fresh water to keep the
>brine from getting too thick, the bucket has a few dozen, may be a
>hundred, brine shrimp swimming in it.  After the last time I let the
>brine thicken and crust over,  I simply dumped some fresh water full of
>unicellular algae, good old green water.  A week later the brine shrimp were
>teeming in their modest numbers, not in any way enough to maintain more than
>a few small fish.

Oleg, we went shrimping on 6/20/92. 3 months in that bucket? I'm impressed.

By the way - for we East Coasters, the brine shrimp Oleg and I collected
were by far the largest adult brine shrimp I've ever seen - it appears that
the Bay Area pet shops (at least some of them) have access to these 'wild'
adults -I'd never seen sexable brine shrimp until the ones we caught and the
one's Oleg got at his local shop to feed Peter Tirbak's fish with. The
one's we get in NJ are little and squirrely, at best 1/2 the size of these
studly brine shrimp. I'm guessing here, but a diet of nearly-wild brine shrimp
has to be very good for any freshwater fish, as these shrimp were filled
with food - microalgae, plankton, etc. Brine shrimp get knocked for not
being a good food source, for my money I think you'd do just fine if you
could get the wild ones. It was pretty far to go, though.

Baby brine shrimp will absorb fish vitamins (like VitaBoost)  and hence
become a better way to feed your young fry. This doesn't seem to work as
well with adult shrimp. ONe other thing - if you feed the vitamins to
the baby shrimp, they don't last as long (i.e., use them up in about an hour.)
Lots of the 'killi factory' breeders in the Bay Area do this with good
success and avoid more hazardous foods like tubificid worms (blackworms
and tubifex,) which should be used with extreme reluctance, if at all.
-- 
"I am the chosen one."  | Copyright 1992 mattk@usl.com. Permission for
                        | reproduction in printed media or by pay-for-read
"And I Choose to be     | services explicitly disallowed. Permission granted to
shopping!"              | USENET and like free facilities.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier)
Subject: Re: How to culture Daphnia?
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 92 19:38:47 GMT

ig30@vaxb.acs.unt.edu wrote:
: Could someone let me know how best(the easiest way) to culture Daphnia. In a
: recent FAMA I saw Daphnia Magna cultures for sale - are these a large sized
: Daphnia? I am looking for this or any other easy live food to culture for my
: 1.5 inch Julies.

I have heard of two ways to culture daphnia:

1) green water
	You will need an established green water culture to
feed the daphnia.  Green water is water with single-cell algae
swimming around in it - it is green.  A friend of ourse
cultures green water by keeping an unfiltered tank with a
goldfish in it on his porch.  The ammonia from the goldfish
feeds the algae.  Inside, he has his daphnia culture in a
window which doesn't get direct sunlight (at least, I don't
think it does).  Whenever this tank starts to turn brown, that
means the daphnia population has exploded - he does a 50% water
(or something like that), using the green water as replacement
water.

2) worms/snails
	This method does not produce as many daphnia, but it
is easier.  Simply keep either a large snail or several black or
tubifex worms in a small tank with the daphnia.  Snails are
supposed to work well - infusoria live off of the worm wastes,
and daphnia live off of the infusoria.  According to the article
I read (I think it was in JAKA), the larger daphnia will also
eat newly hatched brine shrimp.

Whatever you do, keep multiple cultures going at any point in
time, because you never know when one will crash.  Caveat - I
don't keep daphnia cultures, although it looks like daphnia
have taken up residence in our gularis tank of their own accord.

--
"They thought to use and shame me but I win out by nature, because a true
freak cannot be made.  A true freak must be born." - Geek Love

Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier
From: penfold@bnr.ca (Harvey Schwartz)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Reef Tank Filtration Question
Date: 30 Sep 92 19:40:24 GMT
Reply-To: penfold@bnr.ca
Organization: BNR, Inc.  Richardson, Texas


I've been reading the posts by reef tank owners concerning the use of
an elevated base for the live rock and a pipe with holes in it across
the back of the tank to blow detritus to the front.  My question is:

I have a 40 gallon tank that is 30"L x 24"H x 12" front-to-back.  If
I use a 1" pvc pipe, what size pump (in gph) should I use?  I know I
don't want it to be too wimpy, but I don't want a tidal wave either.

Is there a formula relating pipe diameter, hole size and number, etc,
or maybe just a good rule of thumb?
--

Cheers,
Harvey

??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
??                   ??                                                 ??
??  Harvey Schwartz  ??  Since no one ever wants to share my opinions,  ??      
??  penfold@bnr.ca   ??  they are obviously mine alone.                 ??
??                   ??                                                 ??
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
??                                                                      ??
??  How much deeper would the ocean be if there were no sponges in it?  ??
??                                                                      ??
?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? 
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Subject: Re: What is good sand?
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 92 01:08:35 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)

In article <340@mindlink.bc.ca> Alan_Schianni@mindlink.bc.ca (Alan Schianni) writes:
>I'm starting another 20-g aquarium and was wondering if anyone knows what sand
>is best.

Well-washed quartz sand of 1/32"-3/32" dia, without shell fragments if you
have soft water fish.

>My fish eat worms and in coarser sand it seems the worms get through,

Use a betta bowl or a small goldfish bowl big enough to let a few fish get
in, tilted onto its side with the openning definitely facing up.  Put the 
worms in that.
-- 
Oleg Kiselev at home			...use the header to find the path
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: patton@phy.uab.edu (David Patton)
Subject: Re: Single Species Tanks
Reply-To: patton@phy.uab.edu
Organization: University of Alabama at Birmingham
Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1992 23:41:04 GMT

I vote for the swordtails. At least you could easily harvast the fry to
feed your more interesting fish in another tank:-) 



Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: jimh@ultra.com (Jim Hurley)
Subject: Re: Adding iron (Was Re: Laterite -- Overdose?)
Organization: Ultra Network Technologies
Distribution: rec
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 92 18:09:42 GMT

In <60881@mimsy.umd.edu> biow@cs.umd.edu (chris biow) writes:

>I've had an interesting time adding iron to my plant tank. I
>had been using Ortho Greenol, a terrestrial plant trace element
>solution. In order to keep detectable levels of iron in the tank
>(at least .1ppm), I had to add about .5cc of Greenol every
>other day. Since Greenol is about 6% Fe by weight, I would
>estimate that I added a total of about a gram of Fe, total.

>I recently ordered some DuplaPlant 24 drops, and put 4 drops in.

Ouch!

>The Fe level shot up to .5ppm, and fell to .2ppm over about
>a two week period. Adding two more drops has kept the Fe level
>around .3ppm for two more weeks.

>Speculation: The vast majority of the Greenol Fe was precipitated
>out by the last remnants of NovAqua in the tank water (though
>I have switched to AmQuel for the last four months). It stayed in
>solid form in the gravel, filter, or whatever. ALthough the
>DuplaPlant 24 has _less_ iron per weight, it must have a
>chelating agent that is lacking in Greenol (EDTA?). Thus, the EDTA
>in the tank acts as a catalyst, dissolving the stored iron.
>The EDTA breaks down slowly, at the rate of 50% per two weeks.

>Does that mean that DuplaPlant 24 is better? Not really; it's
>iron so expensive you might as well be purchasing gold. But at
>the rate of a drop a week in a 55gal tank, it makes sense to
>use it in conjunction with a cheaper source of iron. Like
>a rusty nail, maybe...                                                          
In my smaller tanks I use about 1 drop of Dupla24 a week. In my
100g maybe 4 - 6 drops a week. I use the other Dupla products,
but I need to go real easy on them or I get a lot of algae.
I suppose I use them at 1/3 recommended strength. I've been
gradually reducing my fertilization over time. I guess I
don;t have a lot of plants that really need it.

Peat and citric acid are two natural chelating agents that you
can use with the rusty nail approach. I guess a peat substrate
and a nail would supply all the iron you would need. I suppose
you would need to balance the acidity of citric acid with
some relatively harmless base, perhaps baking soda, if your
KH can handle it.
-- 
Jim Hurley --> jimh@ultra.com  ...!ames!ultra!jimh  (408) 922-0100
Ultra Network Technologies / 101 Daggett Drive / San Jose CA 95134
From: pjs@gvgdsd.GVG.TEK.COM (Peter J. Stonard)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: rocks for tank
Date: 28 Sep 92 20:53:27 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Grass Valley Group, Grass Valley, CA

In article <1992Sep23.134502.13032@mr.med.ge.com> carl@crazyman.med.ge.com (Carl Crawford) writes:
>
>could anyone suggest a good place to buy rocks (slate) for a fresh
>water tank besides paying ridiculous prices at a fish store?
>--

Carl,

When I lived in Northern Illinois there was a chain of Do It Yourself
wallpaper and tile stores called 'Colortile'.

I was able to get broken floor tiles of 3/16 - 1/4 inch slate for some
small sum per pound. Later, I bought full tiles as there was a minimum
bundle sale of "one square" (equal to 10 square feet like roof materials - 
I think). I have just about used up that last bundle, so I hope to learn
of a new source here in N. California.
 

++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++
Peter J. Stonard        +                                /^\  /^\
Grass Valley Group      +                       /^\     /   \/
Grass Valley, CA. 95945 +                     /     \ /    /  
pjs@gvgspd.gvg.tek.com  +     Fish keeper in the Sierra Foothills
++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++
If it looks like; sounds like; quacks like; an Opinion. It's mine.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Subject: Re: What are these?
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 08:14:35 GMT

In article <1992Oct01.042400.118877@zeus.calpoly.edu> jmartine@zeus.calpoly.edu (Joe Martinez) writes:
>a) What are they?

Mosquito larvae.

>b) Do they make good fish food?

Yes.

>c) Could they cary parasites or other diseased into my tanks?

If pesticides were used  in the area -- YES.

>d) Can they be cultured?

Yes, but your neighbours and the County Health Commission will lynch you 
if they find out about it.  Remember: these wigglers hatch into the
bloodsuckers only frogs and fish like.
-- 
Oleg Kiselev at home			...use the header to find the path
From: Flatline@qube.OCUnix.On.Ca (Flatline)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: The *MONSTER* ?
Date: 29 Sep 92 01:13:32 GMT
Organization: The QuBE BBS

In a message dated Sun 26 Sep 92  5:55, Patti@hosehead.intel.com (patti Bea
wrote:

 PB> Patty Burleson published her article on _Tips to Keep the Reef Tank
 PB> Hubby Happy_.  I read it, looked at my family room, and realized that
 PB> she sure wasn't talking about *my* house.  I wrote a sarcastic
 PB> followup, and I now have evidence that FAMA will publish *anything*
 PB> they receive.  If anybody's ever had them reject an article, please
 PB> tell me about it, and I'll revise my opinion of them.

Never got one refused ....

But yours really wasn't that bad. I even chuckled a few times. Made me sort
of wish for a spouse who was even remotely interested in fish (besides 
cooking them).

-- Via DLG Pro v0.992

Richard Brosseau
From home via flatline@qube.ocunix.on.ca
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: fred@mks.com (Fred Kratky)
Subject: Re: otocinclus (sp?) in trouble
Organization: Mortice Kern Systems Inc., Waterloo, Ontario, CANADA
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 18:25:46 GMT

In article <5207@daily-planet.concordia.ca> rclark@alcor.concordia.ca (Richard Clark) writes:
>George Booth writes: 
>>I think there may be two kinds of ottos - we had one group we bought that
>>seemed to like fish slime coats instead of algae.  If I remember right,
>>they seemed to have a larger, darker tail spot than the kind we normally
>>see.
> 
>Eeek!  I could be in big trouble ...
> 
>A related message appeared on compuserve's fishnet forum recently, and
>following George's example, I didn't get permission to repost either
>
> 
>Sb: #Otocinclus sps.
>Fm: Frank M Greco/STAFF 74660,2046
>To:  75106,3257 (X)
> 
>Masaki: Otocinclus flexilis is from southern Brazil, and it mimics
>Corydoras paleatus. This enables the Oto cat to easily paratisize
>other fishes (including the Cory.) by stripping off the fishes body
>mucus. It is also an avid plant eater (!). Grows to 50 mm SL. O.

I have not had any problems to date with any of the Ottos I have bought.
I have one otto in (Oops, I knew there was one fish I didn't rescue from
my aquarium blowout!!!) ... I had one otto in a 35 gallon tank and have
2 in a 55 and have never had any problems with them attaching to fish,
or eating plants.  Maybe your ottos are not getting enough food???
-- 
     ||  // // ,'/~~\'   Fred Kratky		fred@mks.com 
    /||/// //|' `\\\     Mortice Kern Systems Inc.     (519) 884-2251
   / | //_// ||\___/     35 King St. N., Waterloo, Ont., Can. N2J 2W9
0_/                       
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: cliff@watson.ibm.com (cliff)
Subject: Last post
Date: Fri, 02 Oct 1992 13:27:16 GMT
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: A

I think the end of my previous 
post got chopped up.
I said I was wondering why people tell me that lack of cycling is the
cause for my fish dying in a new tank after two days.  How could
there be a big build up of metabolic wastes in such a huge tank with
so few fish in 2 days?
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: kcwong@ssd.kodak.com (K. C. Wong)
Subject: Gold tetra info needed
Followup-To: rec.aquaria
Reply-To: kcwong@ssd.kodak.com
Organization: Eastman Kodak Co.
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 92 13:09:36 GMT


Hi,

I need some information about a species of tetra I saw last night at a local
pet store. Never in my life have I seen Gold tetra before in pet store or in
any books that I've seen. I would like to know the scientific name of these 
creatures, their origin, etc.

Size:	  1/2" (still juvenile, probably grows to the size of a Neon tetra.
Shape:	  Like Glolight tetra, flat body.
Behavior: Loose school.
Origin:	  Unknown, the store guy said they come from overseas.
Scientific
name:	  Unknown.
Color:	  Whole body is gold like the gold foil in cigarette packs. Fins has no 
	  visible coloration. Doesn't look like the fish is "painted", but
	  who the hell knows nowaday!!
Price:	  $0.99 each.


Regards,
K.C.Wong
kcwong@ssd.kodak.com

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: penfold@bnr.ca (Harvey Schwartz)
Subject: [M] Wet/Dry vs. Skimmers
Reply-To: penfold@bnr.ca
Organization: BNR, Inc.  Richardson, Texas
Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1992 15:57:41 GMT



   I have read several articles lately regarding the use of skimmers alone
for filtration in a reef tank.  Can anyone offer any advice or
suggestions regarding the use of a wet/dry filter and a skimmer vs.
using only skimmers?  
   If skimmers only are used, then is one humongous skimmer better than
several smaller ones?
   Replies can be sent to penfold@bnr.ca.
Thanks in advance for your help.

--

Cheers,
Harvey

??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
??                   ??                                                 ??
??  Harvey Schwartz  ??  Since no one ever wants to share my opinions,  ??      
??  penfold@bnr.ca   ??  they are obviously mine alone.                 ??
??                   ??                                                 ??
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
??                                                                      ??
??  How much deeper would the ocean be if there were no sponges in it?  ??
??                                                                      ??
?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? 

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Subject: Re: Fish, filter for sale, etc
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 10:11:39 GMT

In article <1992Oct5.031457.25209@odin.corp.sgi.com> santosa@gwan.esd.sgi.com (Gunawan Ali-Santosa) writes:
>-- Vortex Diatom filter.

Why dump the Vortex?  That's one of those filters that can always come in
handy in a large tank...
-- 
Oleg Kiselev at home			...use the header to find the path
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: cliff@watson.ibm.com (cliff)
Subject: Filter related questions
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 13:08:27 GMT
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: A

I was setting up my Fluval 403 this weekend and had to start the flow of water
by taking off the return pipe and putting my mouth on it and sucking in?
Is there a better way to start the siphon action?  Seems like this method would be	
a bit unsanitary after the tank gets established!

Once I got the water flowing into the cannister, to my shock, water started
spraying out the place where the top and bottom of the cannister meet.
Obviously I did not have the "O-ring" seated properly. I finally got it right.
Any tips to really know when the O-ring is seated properly?
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:7807 sci.aquaria:1416 alt.aquaria:5202
From: kiddyr@gallant.apple.com (Ray Kiddy)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: Resealing glass tank
Keywords: tank
Date: 4 Oct 92 23:10:45 GMT
Organization: Apple Computer Inc.

bob@hubcap.clemson.edu (Bob) writes:

>In article <1992Oct3.191312.7754@hubcap.clemson.edu> bob@hubcap.clemson.edu (Bob) writes:
>>Hi all!
>>
>>     I just bought a 75 gallon tank from a friend and intend to set up
>>yet another salt water tank (my third). It seems to have bubbles in the
...
>your boat. Anyone know if this sealant would be ok for my tank? What
>should I get? How is the best way to apply the sealant to get the smooth
>and almost invisble seams that I have in my new tanks.


>Thnaks again!
>Bob

>bob@hubcap.clemson.edu

i tied to reseal a tank and it was a lot trickier than it looked (ok, it wasss
a hexagon, but...) and it was also pretty messy. the result looked like crap
and leaked worse than before i did this. finally i went to a dealer and he
did it for $20 bucks. i imagine you might have to call around to see about
this. also, he showed me how to do it better. i would suggest you talk to
a pro you like and not risk wasting a lot of time.

- ray
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: krogers@javelin.sim.es.com (K. Rogers)
Subject: Re: The *MONSTER* ?
Reply-To: krogers@javelin.sim.es.com
Organization: Evans & Sutherland Computer Corp., Salt Lake City, Utah
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 16:17:24 GMT

Flatline@qube.OCUnix.On.Ca (Flatline) writes:

> PB> Patty Burleson published her article on _Tips to Keep the Reef Tank
> PB> Hubby Happy_.  I read it, looked at my family room, and realized that
> PB> she sure wasn't talking about *my* house.  I wrote a sarcastic
> PB> followup, and I now have evidence that FAMA will publish *anything*
> PB> they receive.  If anybody's ever had them reject an article, please
> PB> tell me about it, and I'll revise my opinion of them.
>
>Never got one refused ....
>
>But yours really wasn't that bad. I even chuckled a few times. Made me sort
>of wish for a spouse who was even remotely interested in fish (besides 
>cooking them).
>
>Richard Brosseau

Yeah but you've put out some of the highest quality articles I've seen
in that rag.  They are probably *really* glad to get articles of your
depth.  Well, ok, the stand article wasn't high-falutin' marine
science, but it was still useful.

BTW, the funniest article I've seen yet was in last month's issue (or
was it this month's?).  It was the questionare about the differences
between FW and SW aquarium fish.  You know, the questions were
something like:

1) What happens when you severely stress a FW fish:
   a) It has babies
   b) It gets ick
   c) It becomes biodegradable

2) What happens when you mildly stress a SW fish:
   a) It has babies
   b) It gets ick
   c) It becomes biodegradable

The answer to 1 is, of course, a.  The answer to 2 is both b&c.  I'd
had a pretty stressful day when I opened the magazine and was in tears
by the end it was so funny.
-- 
Keith Rogers
krogers@javelin.sim.es.com
From: booth@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (George Booth)
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 16:56:54 GMT
Subject: Re: aquaria gif's???
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria

I received this info from Patti Beadles recently. (Posted without
her permission - I hope she doesn't mind).

  The best way to get GIFs out on the net is to post them to
  alt.binaries.pictures.misc.  There have been quite a few fish pictures
  there at various times in the past.  I don't think there's any
  resolution that's more appropriate, but 300 dpi is probably better.
  The pictures on a.b.p.m come in all color schemes and sizes.
  
  There are scripts that are posted periodically for uuencoding and
  posting pictures.  I don't have them, but check through the
  alt.binaries.pictures.* hierarchy and you should find something.

  Pictures posted to a.b.p.m are generally uuencoded and broken down
  into several smaller parts.  (uuencode/uudecode is a program for
  turning binary data into ASCII and vice-versa.  Since news only
  handles 7-bit data, we play these games.)  There are scripts available
  for recombining and decoding the pictures, or you can do it manually
  (if you have uudecode.  If not, source is available.  It's a trivial
  program.)

  -P
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:7713 alt.aquaria:5153