From: allen%asylum.utah.edu@cs.utah.edu (Allen Sanderson)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: Information Request on Ecuador Volcanoes
Date: 7 Apr 92 18:29:08 GMT
Article-I.D.: hellgate.1992Apr7.122908.18843
Distribution: rec
Organization: University of Utah CS Dept

czichon@psyche.csc.ti.com (Cary Czichon) writes:
>
>I'll be going to Ecuador on December 26th to climb volcanoes with a party from
>the Dallas / Fort Worth metroplex.  We'll be down there for two weeks.  We'll
>be doing Chimborazo (Whymper route) and most likely Cotopaxi.  I understand
>that Cotopaxi is located in a first-rate national park.  Is the same true for
>Chimborazo?  Also, since we'll be down there a while, what other volcanoe(s)
>are a "must do" for climbers visiting Ecuador?  I've read the usual guide
>books, but would like recommendations from climbers who have been there
>recently (i.e., first-hand information).  Thanks.
>

I spent almost 4 weeks there last summer climbing and hiking both in
the Andes and Amazon.  We did both Cotopaxi and Chimborazo.  A few
things to note about Ecuador if your only going to be there for two
weeks.  Renting a vehicle is a must and makes things very convenient.
We had a Chevy Trooper, which has a very high theft rate.  Driving
the Pan American Highway is a blast.  The other is acclimating.  Most
people hike a peak right out of town after two or three days in Quito.
Unfortunately these same people get robbed by bandits at varrious times.
Quito is at ~3250m so make sure you are alclimized before setting off
for the mountains.  We chose to do an acclamation hike on El Corazon,
which is located on the way to Cotpaxi.  You can drive to around 4000m
and then start hiking.  A word caution, when we did it there was an
electrical storm coming in, and the summit is marked with a very tall
metal rod. ;-).

Climbing Cotopaxi is very straight forward there are lots of crevases
to negotiate.  The standard start is at midnight.  As for the park
itself, They were just getting a vistor center finished when we were
there.  There is a gate were you pay to get in but not much else in
terms of facilities.  There is a hut to stay in which does have
propane stoves, bunks, and a hut keeper, they cost $5 a night.  The
bathroom are nothing more than an privy.  Water is collected in a
sistern located near the bathrooms.  Make sure you bring a fliter.

Climbing Chimbo is basically the same but it is not in a national park
and there are two huts to stay in.  Both hut keepers are realy nice
folks, atleast the ones we meet.  Most people are not doing the Wymper
Route on Chimbo because of the lack of snow.  Instead people do a
variation of the Marco Cruz and Ridge Route.  The Marco Cruz route is
steep and follows a serries of ice falls, you only need to climb
through a couple before you traverse over to the ridge.  The summit
plateu is a bitch. And is not recommended unless you like post holing
through snow at 6300m.  You gain all of 40m between the Ventimellia
and Wymper Summits.  When I reached the Ventimellia summit I chose not
to go on over to the Wymper summit because of the snow, high winds
(60-100 kmh), a white out, and I was soloing.  There are a few
crevases along the ridge but it is very safe.

Things to take other than the standard stuff: WANDS, an ice screw for
gaining the glacier on Cotopaxi.  The huts are very crowded on the
weekends so try and hit them during the week.  Also take a lock to
lock your stuff up (there are lockers in the huts).  We took our own
food for "altitude" along with a couple of pots and pans.

Being that you are only there for two weeks you with will be hard
pressed to do much more climbing.  I would reccomend staying at
LaCienaga (poor spelling) which is very near Cotopaxi.  It is a old
ranch made into a hotel.  Also a trip up to Otovalo is worth while.

Books I used: Are the Hiking and Climbing Guide to Ecador and the
Lonely Planet Book to Ecador.  Both are worth while.

Hope this helps,

Allen R. Sanderson

"Ethics are bit a like an erection, no matter how well intended they are prone
 to sudden deflation"
 
        Dougal Haston - refering to climbing ethics.
From: j_elison@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Jeff Elison)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1992 22:43:47 GMT
Subject: Re: <None>
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA