HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: howard.smith@spacebbs.com (Howard Smith) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: hydridepg2
Date: 10 Oct 92 23:50:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: SPACE BBS - Menlo Park, CA - 10 Lines + 4gB - 415-323-4193
Reply-To: howard.smith@spacebbs.com (Howard Smith) 

AHA-SV Page 2

This is best process we know at this time, and no guarantees  are
offered or implied if others want to use it.

HYDRIDE MANUFACTURING PROCESS

1. Take 67.5 lbs. (30.7 kg) of 50 mesh powered titanium (Ti)
   81 lbs. (36.8 kg) of 50 mesh powdered Iron (Fe)
   1.5 lb. (0.7 kg) of 50 mesh powdered manganese ( Mn)
2. Put in a 5 gallon (23 L) aluminum drum.
3. Roll mix for 30 minutes at 10 RPM.
4. Pour into ceramic crucible.
5. Heat in RF induction oven under inert gas (argon) atmosphere
   to the melting point to the titanium (1668 degrees C) approx.
   3,000 degrees F.
6. Hold for ten minutes and cool to solidification temperature.
7. Turn block over in the crucible and repeat step 5.
8. Turn block 90 degrees in crucible and repeat step 5.

[NOTE:  steps  7,  8 are done to insure thorough  mixing  of  the
melt.]

9. Cool to room temperature in the crucible.
10. Move the hydride block from the oven into a sealed  container
    which  is  a  large square box with a set  of  crush  rollers
    internally  contained within the box and sealed  to  maintain
    the inert (argon) atmosphere.
11. Crush the frangible hydride block and sieve the material
    through  sieves contained within the box until it is  reduced
    in size to all pass through the sieve. ie. pea sized gravel.
12. Purge a hydride storage tank with argon.
13. Connect the outlet from the crush box to the hydride  storage
    tank  taking care to purge the connection with argon to  dis-
    place any air in the fittings.
14. Transfer the hydride into the hydride storage tank making
    sure to leave at least fifteen percent of the total volume of
    the tank empty for hydride expansion on hydriding.
15. Seal the hydride storage tank.
16. Open the one way valve outlet to let the argon escape and at
    the same time inlet pure hydrogen gas. Purge the hydride
    storage  tank of all argon by flooding it with hydrogen  gas.
    Close the hydrogen outlet valve.
17. Raise the temperature of the hydride storage tank to 200
    degrees F by a combination of internal and external  heating.
    ie. insert the tank in a vat of near boiling water.
18. Increase the hydrogen gas pressure into the tank to 300  psi.
    to pack as much hydrogen gas as possible into the hydride
    material.
(continued on page 3)
---
 . SLMR 2.1a . hAS ANYONE SEEN MY cAPSLOCK KEY?
                                                                     
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:14076 alt.autos.antique:2021
From: harling@miki.pictel.com (Dan Harling)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,alt.autos.antique
Subject: Re: Spark plug specs and old cars
Date: 15 Oct 92 17:44:09 GMT
Organization: PictureTel Corporation

In article <sffcu.6@cuais01.cc.columbia.edu> sffcu@cuais01.cc.columbia.edu (Stewart Feuerstein) writes:
>
>	The 14 is the heat range of the 
>plug.  This is a number that represents how quickly heat is removed from the 
>tip of the plug...
>	The N and the Y represent the thread size and length of the plug and
>other details such as extended tip etc...

I was always under the impression that the heat range was at least
related to the length of the plug; i.e., how far into the heads they
extend.  Given the 14's I took out of my car and the 18's I bought to
replace them to prevent fouling (all other digits being equal), the
18's had visibly more length to the threaded section.  This makes
sense, as putting the plug further into the cylinder will cause it to
pick up more heat.

Of course, this could be completely wrong, and the heat range might
just pertain to the thermal conductivity of the plug material, but the
above example made me think that there might be more to it than that.
____________________________________________________________________________
Daniel A. Harling                        (harling@pictel.com)
PictureTel Corp.             Opinions expressed are not necessarily those of
Peabody, MA  01960                 PictureTel, but they ought to be!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks)
Subject: Re: Removing a lock cylinder from the steering column
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 18:56:20 GMT

In article <Bw0r3L.2GG@inews.Intel.COM> brodesky@td2cad.intel.com (Michael Brodesky) writes:
>
>
>Some one tried to steal my Duster this past weekend. And left the
>ignition switch with half the lock in it. How can I get the rest
>of the lock out? I have heard of a slide hammer but have never seen
>one. 
>
>MichaeL

DON'T slide hammer it! Not unless you want to buy another steering column.

The correct way to do this is as follows:

Remove the horn button, then  pull the steering wheel with a puller.
Remove the turn signal switch & "upper" section of the steering column. (this
may require a special puller from your friendly neighborhood Mopar dealer, or 
you may be able to rig your own puller.)
You should then see the ignition cylinder. Push the button above the cylinder
and the whole cylinder will slide out.

I'm doing this from memory, so I may have missed a couple steps. BTW, I had
to do this job on my '73 Coronet about 15 years ago when someone broke into
our house and stole all the spare car keys. Got to swap out several cars'
lock sets :-(  

I still have the shop manual for this car at home, even though the car's long
gone. Email me if you run into trouble, and I'll look up the procedure.
 
Ted Brooks
 ______________________________________________________________________
| Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are my own, and do not reflect    |
| those of my employer. Advice is free, but you get what you pay for.  |
|                               ________                               |
|                         _____|  1955  |_______                       |
|                        /      Chevrolet      /                       |
|                       /______  BelAir  _____/                        |
|                              |________|                              |
|______________________________________________________________________|
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jrp@bohra.cpg.oz.au (John Pitman)
Subject: radilas on 60's cars
Organization: Computer Power Software
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 03:47:56 GMT

I have had radials on 50-60s cars that werent designed for them with no major
problems, as long as all 4 are consistent. They were english cars, so suspens-
ion would probably be harder than US cars, but the from this distance in time,
I dont recall the ride being all that much harsher - certainly irregularities
in the surface were more noticeable, but the improvement in  handling and 
steering response was well worth it.
jp
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: elmquist@pez.ssesco.com (Chris Elmquist)
Subject: Re: oxygen sensor
Organization: SSESCO
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 14:22:07 GMT

In article <1992Oct11.203434.27766@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> chohan@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Harpal Chohan) writes:
>In article <BvvHJJ.9qK@ssesco.com> elmquist@pez.ssesco.com (Chris Elmquist) writes:
>>
>>I'm wondering if I can disconnect the sensor and fake a nominal Vout
>>using a battery and a couple resistors (or a pot)...  If they have a 0v
>>to 1v range, can I feed .5v say, into the computer in place of the O2 sensor
>>and see if the idle behaves differently (better maybe) ?  Or is the output
>
>Wouldn't feeding the ECU 0.5V fool it into believing the mixture is
>optimum already, which might not be the case? I believe Richard's
>suggestion of grounding the wire is probably a more stable test.

yes..  that makes more sense...

>
>>It would be nice to diagnosis the O2 sensor as bad before trying to pull 
>>it out...
>
>You can hook a voltmeter to its output and observe how fast it reacts
>when hot. Should fluctuate between 0.4 to 0.7 V at a fairly brisk
>rate. Introduce unmeasured air into the system by pulling the dipstick
>or the oil filler cap, and see if the voltage drops immediately. Sluggish,
>or no response, should be fairly indicative of a non-functioning sensor.

So, the more O2, the lower the voltage out from the sensor ? Or visa-versa ?

Mine (my engine) seems to misbehave more before it is fully warmed but
after it has stepped the idle down from the higher speed cold idle.  It
is during this warmup phase that it runs the worst.  What kind of O2
sensor output would be expected by the computer during this time...? is
the computer even looking at the O2 sensor then ?

Chris

Chris Elmquist, N0JCF
elmquist@SSESCO.com
73267.2711@Compuserve.com
(612)342-0003@work (8am-5pm CST6CDT)
From: rjwade@rainbow.ecn.purdue.edu (Robert J. Wade)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: honda valve adjustments
Date: 13 Oct 92 15:27:55 GMT
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network


how often should they be done...how easy is it to do-it-yourself on one 
of the vtec engines??
From: j_graham@vger.nsu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: solar cars
Date: 7 Oct 92 18:08:29 GMT

Hello,

Can anyone out there tell me how I can obtain information on how to build
a solar powered car, or point me in the direction to obtain as much info
as possible on solar devices

Jonathan Graham
From: pauls@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Paul Stafford)
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 22:00:59 GMT
Subject: Re: Effects of compression ration increase on HP
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Rosa, CA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

 this is a rusty analysis from my far distant thermo class:

  internal combustion engines defy simple analysis, but they can be
  poorly approximated by a carnot gas cycle. 

  imagine 4 states, the expansion process is from 2-3,
		    the isothermal compression from 3-4
		    the isentropic compression from 4-1,
		    the the isothermal expansion from 1-2

		     carnot efficiency is given by 1-T(high)/T(low)

		     =1-(T3/T2)
  since the working fluid is an ideal gas (our simplifying assumption),
  we have, for the isentropic process

   T1/T4 = (V4/V1) ** (k-1)    where V is the volume, k is the specific heat.

   now T1 = T2, and T4 = T3, thereforeV4/V1 = V3/V2

   if we call CR the compresion ratio = V4/V1

    the efficiency is then given by 1- 1/(CR**(k-1))

     so the efficiency goes up as the compression ratio

      also, we can look at another quatity, the mean effective pressure,
      mep, which is defined as the constant pressure acting on the piston
      for its work stroke that would result in the net work of the cycle.
      it is a measure of the effectiveness of utilyssing the cylinder
      volume.

       mep = cycle net work / piston displacement.

       from what we've shown before, this can be figured out for the 
       Carnot cycle, mep = Wnet/(V3-V1)

       hope this helped.

       I'm really an airplane mechanic, don't know much 'bout cars...
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dbowman@minotaur (Don A. Bowman)
Subject: Re: Engine hesitation/surging when foot taken of gas
Organization: University of Waterloo
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 20:51:05 GMT

 (MARK@wvnvm.wvnet.edu) wrote:
: I have a 88 Nissan 200SX 2.0L 4 cylinder FI. 8 spark plugs 60K miles.
: 
: Problem:
: 
: When traveling at 55-65 mph and remove my foot from the gas pedal, Engine
: surges/hesitates almost like it is mis-firing. This problem is most noticed
: when in 4th gear and rolling down a hill. Checked the TPS
: (Throttle postioning switch): OK, Test-drove the car with the EGR system disc.:

Is there an exhaust leak? Smaller engines often misfire when the revs go up
and the back-pressure isn't there.

Cracked manifold?
--
Don Bowman                (519) 744-6154     dbowman@zeus.uwaterloo.ca
From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Dyeing plug wires
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 10:15:02 -0500

I ordered a set of silicone-rubber insulated plug wires from JCW, telling them
to send only black wires; naturally, they ignored my directive and sent blue
wires.

Question: Has anyone out there in netland discovered a good dye for silicone
rubber?



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: johnson@wrs.com (David Johnson)
Subject: Re: DOHC on a V8 possible?
Organization: Wind River Systems, Inc.
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 02:23:05 GMT

dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)  writes:

>-> What shortcomings are you referring too?  I thought the '84 and later
>-> Vette was supposed to have a great suspension.

> They have rather severe camber change, which causes the tires to rise
>up on edge, losing grip, and causing instant oversteer.  Usually a
>spinout, even with the 'vette's go-kart steering ratios.  So you wind up
>taking bumpy sections very slowly to keep from losing control.

Certainly not positive camber change. 
In a floating rear axle (solid), when the inside tire is loaded,
the flex in tire carcass changes the slip angle so that it is increased
on the outside edge and decreases across the tire as you move inward.
At the limit, this renders the outside of the tire providing the maximum
traction available at that point, but the inside of the tire is working
below its maximum (slip angle).  "Push it harder!" you say?  Then the
outside of the tires contact patch exceeds the maximum slip angle and
suddenly loses traction at that point.  The limit of the slip angle is then
reached at each successive point accross the tire as the lateral G force
climbs.  What this really accomplishes is a "softening of the 
"break-a-way" point.  What an I.R.S. type suspension does is try to
compensate for this imbalanced tire loading (if it's set up correctly to
do so)....negative camber is fed in with suspension travel to compensate
for tire flex and keep the contact patch flat on the ground, yielding
more uniform slip angle across the entire tire. 

Now dave, I know you know this. I was just trying to let others know
exactly what is happening.  Now, from what I can gather from your
comments is that the '86 and later vettes have "too much" negative camber
fed in ('84 and '85 even worse)?  This may be slightly true, but
the fact remains that the farther you go from an optimum point (of camber)
in the positive direction, the worse the traction is if you would have
gone the same amount in the negative direction. (same for tire press.;
too much is always better than too little), and the fact that a floating
rear axle never has negative camber (when loaded) constitutes a favor toward
the vette w/respect to traction.  Of course, the perfect amount of
both tire press. and negative camber is what we all strive for, but
excuse me while I dream...

DAVE (johnson@wrs.com)

P.S. The added uspring weight doesn't help the floating rear axle when it
comes to "rough" road either.
From: joe@sybase.com (Joseph Weinstein)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: a wierd Mustang electrical problem: spastic turn signals?
Date: 9 Oct 92 17:25:33 GMT
Organization: Sybase, Inc.

Hi.

My turn signals 'got no rhythm'. They blink, but they are erratic.
Within twenty seconds they will be weak and quick then strong but slow.

Any Ideas?

--
Joseph Weinstein  Sybase - 1650 65th Street, Emeryville Ca 94608
		  joe@sybase.com   sun!sybase!joe   510-596-3620
Disclaimer:	  Opinions, I disclaim thee, I disclaim thee, I
                  disclaim thee!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kenny@osf.org (Kenneth Crudup)
Subject: Re: Anti-seize compound for radiator hoses?
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 17:08:25 GMT

In article <1992Oct15.235308.25535@wuecl.wustl.edu>
christos@wucs1.wustl.edu (Christos Papadopoulos) writes:
>What do you guys use when you change your radiator hoses to keep them from
>sticking to the connections?

Vaseline. No problems with oil .vs. rubber yet. Don't get crazy tho'.

	-Kenny
-- 
Kenneth R. Crudup, Contractor, OSF DCE QA
OSF, 11 Cambridge Center, Cambridge, MA 02142	+1 617 621 7306
kenny@osf.osf.org			OSF has nothing to do with this post.
	  Religion: The longest-running gag ever played on Mankind.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sdb@redbeard.physics.fsu.edu (Scott D. Berry)
Subject: Re: Gold Spark Plugs
Organization: Florida State University
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 92 21:05:37 GMT

In article <26367@oasys.dt.navy.mil> bense@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ronald Bense) writes:
>In rec.autos.tech, awds_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (ClarkKent) writes:
>>saw Champion Gold plugs.  I sure they're not solid gold, nor that
>>much more expensive than platinum.  Gold's a great conductor, right?
>>Any thoughts on these?
>
>Yes, platinum is a better conductor than gold, if I remember my physics
>correctly. (I also think it is more expensive, but that might be another
>element)

Nope, you remember wrong.  For elements, the order is (starting with the
best) silver, copper, gold, aluminum.  Platinum is only average - it is worse
than iron or nickel, but better than lead (and about one fourth the conductivity
of gold).  This is for room temperature, so if platinum has a significantly
lower temperature coefficient is could be better at high temps, but the temp
coeff. near room temp for Pt and Au are quite similar.

What both gold and platinum have as significant advantages is their reactivity
(or more appropriately lack of reactivity), which gives them a durability
advantage.  This is why the best conductor, silver is not commonly used
unless in a very unreactive environment.  In addition, Pt surfaces are often 
catalytic, which can promote other chemical reactions.
>
>Ron                          Think about this one (seen on a bumper sticker):
>			     The road to hell is bumper-to-bumper
>			     Make a U-turn to God.
>The irony is priceless.

Scott D. Berry    Assistant Professor of Physics    Florida State University
315 Keen Bldg, B-159, Tallahassee, FL 32306-3016    (904) 644-1218
INTERNET:   berry@redbeard.physics.fsu.edu    BITNET:   berry@fsu

From: mikec@hpgrla.gr.hp.com (Mike Christensen)
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 14:51:46 GMT
Subject: Re: Using Synthetic
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Greeley, CO
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

Changing from mineral to synthetic is where the real problem can occur.
This only occurs on engines that are dirty or worn from infrequent changes of 
inexpensive oil.  Two problems can result: 1) excessive leaking of the
synthetic, and 2) though not as common, seizure due to all the filth comming 
free and clogging up the oil lines.  If you have maintained your car properly,
used an oil like castrol, and have less than 70,000 miles on the
car, you probably won't see any problems.

					Mike Christensen
From: pauls@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Paul Stafford)
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 22:04:12 GMT
Subject: Re: Sudden loss of power to guages
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Rosa, CA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

 check the Instrument voltage regulator. this is a gadget that takes the
 battery voltage and regulates it to some lower voltage, to be used as a more
 stable voltage source to operate guages. also called(I think) the IVSI...
 it is the probable sourse of problems, since more than one guage went out.
 try to figure out why, before replacing it. My ammeter blew mine out a whiile
 back.
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Tires : Slicks vs. Treaded: Help Please
Date: 15 Oct 92 12:45:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> when radials let loose.  But I've never heard of there being any
-> significant difference in the way the tires let loose for treaded
-> tires versus slick for the same construction.

 I don't know what people say.  All I know is how they behaved on the
car.


-> Were these slicks radial or bias ply?

 Bias.


-> Was the suspension set up for radial or bias ply?

 Please explain how there would be any difference.  A race car ain't a
Pontiac Grand Prix with a "Radial Tuned Suspension" medallion glued to
the dashboard.


->  Were you running the proper compound and width?

 Proper compound:  the softest Goodyear made, since they weren't making
special autocross tires then.

 Width:  10 inches, the largest that would fit in the fenderwells.
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: What is the air pump used for?
Date: 9 Oct 92 08:55:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> I wonder why it is a bad idea to run the engine on the lean side?
-> Apparently, this corvette is designed to run at lean side other than
-> on start up. Therefore, there is always enough oxygen in the exhaust
-> after starting.

 Lean mixtures run hotter and are more prone to detonation.  If you've
ever played with a two stroke you can see effects of mixture grossly
exaggerated, at least by four stroke standards.  A two stroke will
usually continue to increase power as it leans out, right up to the
point where the engine seizes or burns a hole through the top of the
piston.
From: lihan@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Bruce G. Bostwick)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Open Letter to Mitsubishi
Date: 13 Oct 92 13:17:12 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin, Austin TX

This concerns specifically the method of attaching the driveplate to
the crankshaft in an 86 Colt with KM170 automatic.

The bolts in question are M10x1.25-20 threaded, which would lead the
average shade-tree mechanic (me) to the conclusion that his 17mm would
fit the head closely enough to remove the bolts.  The manual specifies
30 ft/lb torque, so a moderately close fit seems acceptable.

However, the actual size of the bolt head is 21/32", and if the bolts
are actually torqued to only 30 ft/lb then they are severely galled
and some engineer had best find a better match of materials for the
threaded sections, because I have managed to put 160 ft/lb on each one
(not an easy task considering the positions involved) without budging
any of them.

The bolts in question are obviously a custom item; they have forged
washerheads with very shallow flats, which strip almost instantly if
more than 100 ft/lb is applied.  I have tried three different sockets
(purchased at great price, incidentally), two sizes of pipe wrench,
hammer and cold chisel, and drill, all to no avail.

WHY, WHY, WHY were they designed this way?  I understand the need for
clearance under the torque converter, but why an English size in a
mostly metric car, and why 21/32" of all English sizes?  11/16" or
7/8" would have been better; I cannot find a 6-point 21/32" socket for
any price anywhere in Austin, which is what I would have had to use
FROM THE START if I were wanting to remove them intact.

Was I supposed to just give up and take it to the dealer who would
then charge me about $500 just to put it on the lift?

-- 
<BGB>
lihan@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu        /     "I can't complain,
(really Bruce Bostwick)        /   but sometimes I still do"
from the great state of TEXAS /         --Joe Walsh--
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech