HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: sparkie@uhura.cs.wisc.edu (Mark Horn)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: opinions on a '89 Fox GL
Date: 5 Sep 92 14:47:17 GMT
Reply-To: sparkie@uhura.cs.wisc.edu
Organization: U of Wisconsin CS Dept

Hi,

I didn't even know this group existed until a few minutes ago.  

I'm considering buying an '89 VW Fox GL with 38k miles on it.  I've got  
what I think is a fair deal.  What I'm interested in is opinions of the  
vehicle from a reliability standpoint.  How much time am I going to spend  
repairing this car?  What systems have been particular problem areas?   
Etc.

Please responses via email would be preferred as I'm not a regular reader  
to this group.

Thanks,
- sparkie
sparkie@uhura.cs.wisc.edu
From: sszeller@us.oracle.com (Scott S. Zeller)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Electronic Control Unit (ECU) problems
Date: 15 Sep 92 21:42:42 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Oracle Corporation
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by an unauthenticated user
              at Oracle Corporation.  The opinions expressed are those
              of the user and not necessarily those of Oracle.

In article <1992Sep15.183655.8556@oracle.us.oracle.com> sszeller@us.oracle.com (Scott S. Zeller) writes:
>All,
>
>I posted about 6 weeks ago and got almost zip in response.  I've now got
>additional data (though of what value, I am not certain).
>
>To refresh, my '90 Golf developed the problem of not starting on the first 
>attempt (when cold).  This began when I had somewhere around 23,000 miles.
>Super unleaded exacerbates the problem; regular unleaded (87 Octane) eases
>it, though not completely (and also poses the threat of gummed injectors).
>Occasionally, on second start, the RPM's shoot to 2K before settling to around
>1K.  Once started, the car often hesitates, threatens to stall, and has
>generally low power until it's been driven for a few minutes.
>
>To fix the problem, most (if not all) of the engine sensors were replaced as
>was the ECU.  The problem reappeared within a day.
>
>My question:  Has anyone else had similar problems? Perchance, have you had
>	      the #%$#*!!?! recalled?
>
>Enquiring minds want to know,
>Scott
>

I should have added that I used STP Super-Duper Concentrated injector cleaner
when this first started; if anything, the problem got worse.

Thanks,
Scott
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: eldred@rrunner.jpl.nasa.gov (Dan Eldred)
Subject: Re: Wanted 80-83 Vanagon
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 17:13:59 GMT

In article <61930003@hpcvnb.CV.HP.COM> michaeln@hpcvnb.CV.HP.COM (Mike_Nason) writes:
>   I'm posting this for a friend !!!!! Please make responses to this post
>directly to him. He can receive e-mail but can not post. Thanks, 
>
>   Wanted 80 - 83 VANAGON
>Want low miles (under 100k),  Air cooled,  5 speed

I wasn't aware they made these in 5 speed versions.

	- Dan

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: janh@hsr.no (Jan Hoeyberg)
Subject: Ghia prices - a summary
Organization: Rogaland University Centre
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 10:39:32 GMT

Earlier this year I posted a request for information on prices and availability
of the VW Karmann-Ghia in the U.S. For those of you planning to get a Ghia, a
short summary of the answers I received is given below:

> From: twb@laki.tivoli.com (Tom Bereiter)
>
> I currently drive a '67 Ghia convertible, nicely restored, worth about $5000.
> In Austin, Texas there seem to always be Ghias for sale in the paper: sedans
> in the $2-3000 range, convertibles $3-5000. 
> These are usually "late" model, 70-74.


> From: bbhedstr@virgo.cca.cr.rockwell.com (Brian B. Hedstrom)
>
> I am originally from Wyoming and always wanted a convertible Ghia, 
> but found that they are very expensive (coupe's included) and most of them
> had bad body rust and damaged front noses.  The front nose would be very
> hard to fix unless you were a very experienced body man.  I looked at a
> 70 Ghia with a totaled front end (needed a fiberglass one put on) and the
> guy wanted +$700 for it.  Thereplacement parts are VERY expensive compared
> to a bug, and hard to find at that.  Tail light lenses and little things
> like that can really add up $$.
>
> I would buy one that was already restored if possible, and you would
> probably pay +$2000 for it.


> From: BRENNAN@COCO.CCHS.SU.OZ.AU (Luke Brennan)
>
> I was in Boston last August/September and saw a '74 (?) ghia
> for sale for $3500 .. didn't look *that* bad.
>
> Of course, I have no idea if that was good or bad for USA..
> (in OZ a good ghia is $8000-$20000!)


> From: buche@engin.umich.edu (David John Buche )
> 
> Subject: K-G prices and availability in Michigan
> 
> I purchased my 1970 convertible in very good condition for $3500 in 1987
> and consider myself lucky to have found a stock clean 'vert in such good
> condition in Michigan where road salt is used heavily.  Prices in Michigan
> are cheap, ghias are usually in bad rusted out shape, and maybe a dozen
> ghias show up in the Detroit classifieds in a year.  People in this area
> generally prefer brand new cars if they can afford them, so prices are
> cheap but it is hard to find cars worth repiring / restoring. 
> I am considering picking up a '62 vert for $900 that is owned by a guy
> I met at a swap meet.  There are fist-sized holes in the pan, no brakes,
> and probably a lot of hidden rust.  The heater channels will probably have
> to be replaced and that is not a small job, and unlike my Ghia the bumpers
> will need rechroming.  


> From: Eric Hvozda <hvozda@wilbur.psu.edu>
>
> You are about 25 to 30 years too late.  I bought my first Ghia in
> 1959 in W Germany for $1854.  The second Ghia was in 1964 in Pittsburgh.
> The last Ghia I saw for sale was last month in Youngwood, Pa.  It is 
> no longer on the lot - one must assume it has been sold.


If any of you have more information on this subject (especially prices etc.
in California), please mail me at the adress below. Thanks.


Jan H\o iberg, Norway (janh@hsr.no)
From: 01ksdavis@bsu-ucs.uucp
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: My Squareback isn't holding a charge!
Date: 6 Sep 92 19:32:31 GMT


	Help!  My Type 3 Squareback won't hold a charge!


	So far, this I have done:


		put in a new generator.

		put in spark plug cables.

		and checked the fan belt.

		Everything seems to be in order.  The official service manual
suggests I check terminal 50 of the solenoid and also check the regulator.


	Anybody else have any bright ideas?  It would be so nice if I can drive
anywhere I want to again without worrying about jumper cables, or whoever is
going to give me my next jump.


	Thanks in advance.


		Kyle
From: bjgaed@bb1t.monsanto.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: My Squareback isn't holding a charge!
Date: 6 Sep 92 22:43:30 CST
Organization: Monsanto Company, St. Louis, MO

In article <1992Sep6.143231.9291@bsu-ucs.uucp>, 01ksdavis@bsu-ucs.uucp writes:
> 
> 	Help!  My Type 3 Squareback won't hold a charge!
> 
> 
> 	So far, this I have done:
> 
> 
> 		put in a new generator.
> 
> 		put in spark plug cables.
> 
> 		and checked the fan belt.
> 
> 		Everything seems to be in order.  The official service manual
> suggests I check terminal 50 of the solenoid and also check the regulator.
> 
You should have replaced the voltage regulator first.  90% of the time 
this is the problem, not the generator, and it's a lot cheaper.  Oh, 
well, you should have a new regulator to go with your new generator 
anyway.

I assume your battery will take a full charge (check with electrolyte 
tester) and it's not the battery that's the problem.

> 
--Electric Monk            (Bruce Gaede); 
                            e-mail: bjgaed@ccmail.monsanto.com

"...and then time started seriously to pass."
--Douglas Adams, _Dirk Gently's Holistic Detective Agency_
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: greis@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Gayla Ann Greis)
Subject: Re: Good Home needs Cat
Organization: Computing Services Division, University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 17:04:20 GMT

In article <1992Sep8.160049.27745@ee.rochester.edu> Mark Sirota <msirota@socrates.ee.rochester.edu> writes:
>Anyway, anyone know what the laws are regarding used cats?  I'm in New York
>State; I assume they vary by state.  Wolf Sport says they can sell me a used
>one, but they don't have any in stock; a new one from the aftermarket is
>$365; the dealer will get me a VW version for $450.
>
>What should I do?  I'd like to spend as little as possible, and most likely
>I won't be keeping the car for another 100K miles, so I'd be willing to take
>a used one if it's legal.  Anyone know of good sources for cheap, or used,
>cats?  Is there any good reason not to get an aftermarket cat?  Can I feel
>secure that it will pass inspection?

Well, if you want to spend as little as possible, get the VW one. IMHO
CCs only really are effective for about 1.5 years of normal wear and tear.
They're legal beyond that, but don't really perform the intended function.
Used exhaust parts are never a very good idea, and in an exhaust job, a
lot of what you pay for is labor. Nothing is as effective, as well warrantied
or durable as stock (unless you're going to performance parts, in which case
you wouldn't want a CC anyways.) Its the right part for the car afterall.
Talk to the dealer principle, tell them that you buy your cars there, service
them there, and buy parts there. You'd like an account to be able to get the
"internal" rate so that when you "trade in" your used VW, the dealer will
know all the parts and work were done right! :-) Internal isn't cost BTW.
It's like cost + 5% or 10%. It is a lot off from what retail is though!
It will bring stock VW durable parts down into the acceptable range though.
Good luck!

(Or you can go to the parts counter, and say Mr. XXX (use dealers name)
said that you should ask for part XXX at internal. This works sometimes too!)
From: hewett@head-cfa.harvard.edu (Rob Hewett)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Transmission documentation - where?
Date: 9 Sep 92 13:53:11 GMT
Article-I.D.: cfa203.1992Sep9.135311.28295
Organization: Smithsonian Astrophysical Observatory, Cambridge, MA,  USA


Hi - 
A buddy of mine just gave me a Jetta 5-sp transmission (86).
(It's broken)
I would like to use this opportunity to learn all about
these transmissions.  I've never done tranny work before.
Is there any good documentation on these, like the Bentley
manual only more detailed?  Like whatever the shops use?

Also, ratios aside, is this transmission suitable for
use in my 88 Golf GT if needed down the line somewhere?  Looks it...

Thanks!  email or news is fine.

Rob  hewett@cfa.harvard.edu
From: mgm@royko.Chicago.COM (Marty Masters)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Fox GL evaluation
Date: 6 Sep 92 19:21:22 GMT
Organization: Chicago Software Works

"Sparkie" sez:

> I'm considering buying an '89 VW Fox GL with 38k miles on it.  I've got  
> what I think is a fair deal.  What I'm interested in is opinions of the  
> vehicle from a reliability standpoint.  How much time am I going to spend  
> repairing this car?  What systems have been particular problem areas?   

Well my 88 Fox GL Wagon is about to turn over 180,000 miles (I commute
80 miles a day), and it will be five years old on the 28th of this month.
It has been my daily driver as well being called upon to do the occasional 
autocrossing duty, so I've pushed the car to the the edge of the envelope
as best I can figure.  The down time the car has had when I couldn't
drive it at all, amounts to two months of the five years.

I change the oil religiously, haven't had to go inside the engine for
anything.  I have changed the shocks once, the brakes several times,
three sets of tires, the back half of the exhaust once, and some of
the lightbulbs... all things which wear out, which is to be expected.

The only major problem was the trans chipping a gear at 170,000, so
I had to change it, and that's when I finally changed the original
clutch.  I'd say that qualifies as reliable... IMHO.

I'm going to keep the Fahrvergnugen.microwagen for a long time.  It's
too handy of a vehicle to lose.  Big enough to carry four adults,
even if the back seat isn't the largest, or fold down the seat, and
it will haul two *LARGE* skykennels, or even a 40 gallon water heater.

...Marty stillooking4a.sig Masters
From: timb@anat3d2.anatomy.upenn.edu (Timothy Baradet)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Quantum Shop Manual
Date: 10 Sep 92 20:59:10 GMT
Organization: Univ. of Penn. School of Medicine


	On 9/9/92 this was posted: 

>
>		FOR SALE: Original VW shop manual for Quantum, all models.
>    Used, with usual grease stains, but 100 % complete and
>    intact.
>
>PRICE: $12.00 Postpaid
>
>
>Ed Rudnicki     erudnick@pica.army.mil     All disclaimers apply

									If this is still available please post or e-mail me, my '82
		Quantum Wagon needs some TLC.  Thanks,  Tim Baradet  215/474-7720
																																																							(leave message)
From: jmm2948@zeus.tamu.edu (Jeffrey M. Mayzurk)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: 195-60 HR-14s on an '84 GTI???
Date: 15 Sep 1992 20:07:00 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Texas A&M University
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <1992Sep15.125230.24955@ll.mit.edu>, hemenway@ll.mit.edu writes...
>Earlier I wrote:
>>In article <1992Sep14.162150.9291@ll.mit.edu> hemenway@ll.mit.edu writes:
>>>If OK, are snow cables a no-no?

>>There is plenty of clearance in the wheelwells, and living in the
>>Bay Area I rarely have need for chains.  

> 
>Chains will not fit even the standard tires with severe risk
>to the wheelwells.  I have used cables in the Sierras for 5
>years without problems on 185-60/14s

I forgot this in my earlier post, but if you read the owners manual it
clearly states that snow chains should not be used on cars with 14" wheels
and size 185/60 tires.  Since the 195/60 is wider and taller, naturally 
chains should not be used.  If you do a lot of driving on snow or ice, I 
would suggest buying a cheap set of steel VW 13" rims (or even the older,
ugly allow rims) and buying a decent set of snow tires.  With the 13"
wheel/tire combo, you will have more sidewall to protect the rim, and
you can use a narrower tire for better snow traction.  Chains would also
fit on this combination.  Save your GTI alloys and high-performance
tires for the summer when you can enjoy them.

--
Jeffrey M. Mayzurk

jmm2948@zeus.tamu.edu
From: sylveste@ecs.umass.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: OXYS Light still on
Date: 14 Sep 92 11:36:14 GMT

In article <lav32vINNhge@tokio.cs.utexas.edu>, bhala@cs.utexas.edu (Bhalchandra Ghatate) writes:
> 	I posted a couple of days ago about the
> OXYs light which has lit up.  Got a lot of replies
> telling me to reset it and how to.
> 	I tried to reset it but it doen't go off.
> This is just about 12000 miles after it was last
> fully serviced.
> 	Can there be any other reason for the light 
> to go on and do I need to worry about it.
> 
> Thanks for the help in advance.
> bhala
> 
> bhala@cs.utexas.edu

    The oxs light in your car is nothing more than a device that gets you into 
the dealer's shop.  It means only that you have gone 25k miles since the light 
was last reset.  You sometimes have to press the reset button  a few times to 
get it to go out.  If you can't get it to go out, just remove the bulb. 

                                                 mike sylvester  umass
                                                 sylveste@ecs.umass.edu
From: sgupta@scifres.ecn.purdue.edu (Sameer Gupta)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: VW Radio FM problem(was FOX89 Radio Problems)
Date: 13 Sep 92 05:09:19 GMT
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network

stauffer@cc.swarthmore.edu (Glenn Stauffer) writes:

>In article <1992Sep12.055229.8620@r-node.gts.org> Ivan Vojvodic,
>ivan@r-node.gts.org writes:
>>Recently I've noticed a strange behaviour of my 89 FOX radio-cassete
>>player.  Namely, radio section sometimes loses its output [i.e.
>>frequency is displayed, but nothing is being heard], and it goes
>>like that in an on-off mode [i.e. you hear it, than you don't].
>>Casette player is working, so, I assume, it is not a power
>>[electrical] problem.
>>
>>Anyone with a similar experience?  Can I do anything to prevent
>>this?  If this is a known failure, maybe you can share with me
>>and other netters whether it is worth to repair it, or is it
>>better to buy a new one...
>>

>I have an '87 Fox with almost exactly the same problem.  My radio lost FM 
>reception about 2 years ago.  It started gradually with the FM sound 
>dropping out after the radio was on for a while.  In the past year, FM 
>reception is gone altogether - though I do see stations in the display
>(only 
>presets work - scan freezes on the displayed station).  I still get AM 
>and the tape player works.

My brother's 87 Golf has a similar problem.  When it rains, he loses FM, but
not AM or Cassette.  Is this a common VW problem ?  If so, may be we can
get VW take responsibility for it.

Sameer
From: pk16@frc.ri.cmu.edu (Paul Keller)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: fuel injector test
Date: 13 Sep 92 20:06:01 GMT
Reply-To: pk16@frc.ri.cmu.edu (Paul Keller)
Distribution: rec
Organization: Field Robotics Center, CMU


I am trying to test my fuel injectors ('83 rabbit with hard hot start
problems, rough uneven idle at 100K).  I finally was able to pull one
of them out, and then tried to follow the test in the Chilton manual
(I know, I should get the Bentley manual...).  They recommend turning
the ignition key to on, lifting the air sensor plate and dropping it
back down.  This should give a nice even spray pattern.  Well, nothing
happened.  Not even with repeated lifting and dropping of the plate.

So, I decided to try the procedure listed in the Clymer manual (see
above comment about the Bentley manual...).  They recommend pulling
the fuel pump relay and shorting pins L14 and L15 together, then doing
the same thing that Chilton says.  I guess this is to get the fuel
pump running (why not just turn the key?).  Well, the fuel pump relay
in my car is not labeled the way their's is in the diagram.  It has
pins G (ground, I guess), L31, and some others - not L14 and L15 for
sure.

When I was done with all of this, I went to put the injector back in
the engine, and noticed that some gas had beaded up around the end,
which sounds like it needs to be replaced, but I would like to do a
full test anyway.

Lastly, when I put the injector back in the engine, it didn't really
snap into place like I had anticipated.  The engine runs fine (or at
least like it used to) but I am slightly concerned about how easy the
injector goes in and out now - is this normal?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.
--
Paul Keller                     paul.keller@frc.ri.cmu.edu
Field Robotics Center           Phone: (412) 268-6563
The Robotics Institute          Fax: (412) 682-1793
Carnegie Mellon University
Pittsburgh, PA 15213
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: eliot@stalfos.engr.washington.edu (eliot)
Subject: Snow tires for Corrado
Organization: clearer than blir
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 19:20:08 GMT


I am soliciting recommendations for studdable snow tires for the
Corrado.  Over here in the northwest, the winters tend to be mild, so
we have a lot of ice to deal with.  The ultra-low profile dimensions
of Corrado tires is proving to be difficult.  Looking at Tire Rack
listings, there's nothing that will fit the Corrado that can be
studded.  Has anybody found anything?  Also info on sources of steel
wheels would be greatly appreciated.


eliot
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: lam@pioneer.arc.nasa.gov (Tony To Lam FSN)
Subject: tune up procedures
Followup-To: lam@apache.arc.nasa.gov
Organization: NASA Ames Res. Ctr. Mtn Vw CA 94035
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 92 20:32:17 GMT


Do Brently manuals for VW covers tuneup procedures such as valve adjustment,
timing adjustment, distributor and etc.

Or, is there any good book for a novice to do VW tuneup?

Thanks
From: dilmore@cray.com (Robert J. Dilmore)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Passat floor mats,grey
Date: 10 Sep 92 17:22:08 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.


    VW USA is giving me a new set of floor mats(goodwill gesture). They
are grey originals but I already have a set. Interested? Make an offer.

Robert dilmore@cray.com
From: bhala@cs.utexas.edu (Bhalchandra Ghatate)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: OXYS light on < 12000 miles
Date: 8 Sep 1992 11:46:34 -0500
Organization: CS Dept, University of Texas at Austin
NNTP-Posting-Host: tokio.cs.utexas.edu

	The Oxygen sensor light in my GTI (86) has come on
even though I replaced it at the 90,000 miles service and now
the odometer is at only 101500 miles.

	Can there be any other reason for it to turn on.  If
so what do I need to do.  Hope it's not too expensive ... :-).

	Thanks for the help in advance.

bhala

bhala@cs.utexas.edu
From: bdimond@osprey.lerc.nasa.gov (Bob Dimond)
Subject: Re: Spotted: Unusual Quantum
Reply-To: bdimond@osprey.lerc.nasa.gov
Organization: NASA- Lewis Research Center
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 15:04:21 GMT

In article <1992Sep9.133427.28135@cfa203.harvard.edu>, hewett@head-cfa.harvard.edu (Rob Hewett) writes:
|> Hi - 
|> 
|> On my commute this morning I saw a 2 door Quantum
|> hatchback.  I didn't know such a thing existed.
|> Looked a bit 411-ish.  Color was a sort of tan-copper.
|> 
|> I realize this is not earth-shaking:-)
|> 
|> Rob
|> hewett@cfa.harvard.edu
 
A bit 411-ish?  Are you sure it wasn't a VW Dasher?
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Seeking Neuspeed chip
From: jan@camhpp12.mdcbbs.com (Jan Vandenbrande)
Date: 10 Sep 92 11:58:40 PDT
Organization: M&E (Division of EDS), Cypress CA

In article <1992Sep10.053745.5254@microplex.com> fff@microplex.com (Fred Fierling) writes:
>>In article <1992Sep3.020005.1517@rdr.com> randy@rdr.com (Randy Tidd) writes:
>>>
>>>I'm looking for an upgrade chip for my 1992 VW GTI 16v.  I called about a  
>>>bazillion places and finally got the local number for Autotech, who sells  
>>>upgrade chips for $275.00.  I heard from a multitude of sources that  
>
>What's the appeal of these chips?  If they provide higher horsepower, is it
>at the expense of low end torque?  I mean there's no free lunch, right?
>-- 
>Fred Fierling    fff@microplex.com       Tel: 604 875-1461   Fax: 604 875-9029
>Microplex Systems Ltd   265 East 1st Avenue   Vancouver, BC   V5T 1A7,  Canada

I have the Autoth Stage I chip in my G60 and it increased low end
torque by 20% (very noticeable), and peak power by a mere 10%.
Gas mileage has remained the same if not a tad better.
Engine runs about the same temp.
Engine starts as good as previously, idle is the same, no 
lurching etc, smooth as stock.

So is it a free lunch? Maybe. 
From what I understand, the original chips are made for 87
octane gas. The knock sensors do adjust ignition advance a bit with 
higher octane, but not as much as they could. 
The AutoTh Chips requires 92 octane and I guess they push the
timing & fuel quantity/timing closer to the possible limit.
(For those unfamiliar with timing, the more advance the more
power, but also the higher chance of knock and more pollution).
However, most of their chips are CARB approved, so I guess they
don't pollute that much.

The chip BTW is an EPROM, available in most electronics stores for 
a couple of $s.
The unit you saw is an EPROM burner, which essentially down
loads the program into the EPROM (just turns the bits on and off).
Nothing special about that either. It's the stuff they down load that's
interesting. BTW: You can also copy EPROMs...but then you get
into the whole business of copyrights etc. 
I guess in the future we won't be rejetting our carbs but burning
EPROMs.

Here's another idea for G60s: Why doesn't anyone make a
centrifugal pulley => Low diameter at low rpms to get lots of
boost, larger diameter at higher rpms for normal boost and increased
life. I am still wary of the Stage II stuff.

Jan
-- 
Jan

jan@camhpp12.mdcbbs.com		(work)
jan@lipari.usc.edu		(school, usually works, forwards)