HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jreiser@scott.skidmore.edu (jason reiser)
Subject: Re: 430 EZ flash for Canon (grey market imports)
Organization: Skidmore College, Saratoga Springs NY
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 01:05:25 GMT

ka1gt@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (robert.m.atkins) writes:
> In article <trevor.716065597@bcserv>, trevor@bcserv.wustl.edu (Creamer (Trevor)) writes:
> > jchen@smdsctt.bellcore.com (C. Jason Chen) writes:
> > >In addition, the "meter" version must be grey market. 
> > 
> > When I bought my 430EZ from B+H the guy on the other end of the line
> > told me up front that the metre-scale model was grey-market. Splurge
> > and pay the extra $20.
> > Trevor
> > -- 
> 
> Pay the extra $20 if you want to, but note that Canon (unlike Nikon) have a
> policy of honoring the warranty on grey market imports. If you want to be
> certain that they will do this, you can call them. They have an 800 number
> which I seem to have lost. There was some suggestion that they might not
> offer full support of items not supposed to be imported into the USA (like
> the EOS10s QD), probably because they don't stock all the possible replacement
> parts at US service centers. I would think the 430EZ units differ only in
> programing, not in component parts, so service should not be a problem.
> 

Actually, the warrantee does differ with Canon products.  Canon will
cover any camera/lens/flash, etc. for the full duration of the
warrantee (1 year from date of purchase on parts & labor) but only in
the US and in Canada.  Non grey market camera goods (US products) come
with a worldwide warrantee.  ...and Canon Consumer Information
Center's number is 800-828-4040.  Avoid calling between 12 and 2
o'clock eastern time when we are 1/2 staffed for lunch.

				- Jason
From: hship@sw.stratus.com (Howard Ship)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: B&W Enlarger Recommendations
Date: 8 Sep 92 14:22:54 GMT
Organization: Stratus Computer, Inc.

I'm in the process of assembling a b&w darkroom.  I'm looking for a good
new or used enlarger.  However, even in the Boston (MA, USA) area, researching
darkroom equipment is a formidable task.  My price range for the enlarger is about
$250 to $350.  This is the price range of a Besseler 23C-II condenser (used).  What
other enlargers are comparable in performance, stability, etc.

I am also looking for advice and comment on mail ordering equipment.  The ads are
a very confusing array: it is hard to determine what one needs and is getting.  For
instance, you have your enlarger, you have your lens, but then there's some form
of mounting plate you also need to get.  Looks like you have to buy your negative
mask seperately also.  What about power supplies and light sources?

Anyway, please reply with anything useful.  I'll collect responses over the next
couple of days and post a single summary.

-- 
"I can't believe I had the Anti!"
Howard_Ship@vos.stratus.com
From: Gen.M.Kanai@dartmouth.edu (Gen M. Kanai)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: LEICA D FOR SALE-MAYBE
Date: 13 Sep 92 00:26:20 GMT
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH

I might be interested in selling my Leica D.  It is a model built in
1932 and is black with a nickel-plated 50 mm 2.8.  I am testing the
waters out on this and if no one can give me a reasonable offer, I wont
try to get rid of it.  It is the very first model to incorporate
parralax focusing and is in MINT condition, although the case is a
little rough.  

Any offers e-mail to
gen.kanai@dartmouth.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: DH02000 <DH02@polytec1.polymtl.ca>
Subject: Cambridge.........not again !!!
Organization: Ecole Polytechnique de Montreal
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1992 17:14:28 GMT

Hi guys!

Just curious (nothing else to do on a cloudy Labor Day!)...is there
*anybody* out there who's had a *pleasant* experience dealing with
"our friend" - Cambridge!

I was talking to some friends who live in NYC and they said the
same thing - they'd NEVER recommend anyone buying anything from
Cambridge!

Just wondering how they've managed to stay in business for so long
(about 30 yr.s as their ad. in Pop. Photo. claims!!).  Do they have
some buried treasure on the property they stand on or something?

-Tamal Ghosh  (just another "nearly duped" Cambridge customer!)
 Departement de genie chimique
 Ecole Polytechnique de Montreal


Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: amolitor@nmsu.edu (Andrew Molitor)
Subject: Re: High speed useful ? (was Re: Nikon N90 technobabble)
Summary: Flash sync speed tells the tale
Organization: New Mexico State University
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 03:09:18 GMT

In article <=8qn+5b.hchong@netcom.com> hchong@netcom.com (Hoi Chong) writes:
>
> [how film-plane shutters work]
>
>Can anyone say what is the highest speed w/o the shutter doing the
>"portion-at-a-time" thing?  (specifically on F4s) 

	Well, in general, the flash sync speed is the shortest
interval the shutter is capable of being fully open for -- since
the flash is itself essentially 'instantaneous', the shutter must
be fully open for the flash to expose the entire frame. I *think*
some cameras may actually be conservative, and place the flash
sync speed at the next slower speed from the fastest one that 'would
work', but this may be false.

	Andrew
From: TSOS@uni-duesseldorf.de (Detlef Lannert)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Flash sync at 1/4000 s. (was Re: High speed useful ? (was Re: Nikon N90 technobabble))
Keywords: TTL flash metering, flash sensors
Date: 14 Sep 92 15:42:10 GMT
Organization: Universitaetsrechenzentrum, Heinrich-Heine-Universitaet, Duesseldorf
NNTP-Posting-Host: lannert.rz.uni-duesseldorf.de

In article <24969@oasys.dt.navy.mil> goldberg@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Mark Goldberg) writes:

>In rec.photo, tonya@hpldsla.sid.hp.com (Tony Arnerich) writes:
>>The TTL flash function in a camera body is just a remote
>>sensor for the flash.
>>... the only thing you need for TTL sensing is to put that
>>sensor inside the body, and connect it to the flash. Period. Why this
>>feature is associated with other electronic bells & whistles is just
>>a function of Marketing departments.
>
>I disagree very strongly.  The advantage of TTL metering, for both flash
>and continuous light sources, is that it accounts for the actual optical
>performance of the optics and added filters or diffusers.  Flash sensors
>are often fooled by off-axis lighting as from bounce flash systems and
>multiple flashes.  [...] 

Are you sure you disagree? Or might there be a misunderstanding?
The previous poster argued that TTL metering is essentially not much
different from putting a flash sensor into a camera body. This, however,
is not an easy thing to do: The sensor must be mounted somewhere *inside*
the camera, typically looking towards the back and measuring the light
that is reflected from the film surface while the shutter is open.
(It cannot sit next to the prism - where AE sensors often are placed -
because the mirror is up before the flash is triggered.)

But this is "nothing more than" a mechanical problem; otherwise the
TTL sensor behaves quite like an external sensor, and thus it works
as well with a mechanical as with an electronic shutter.

The TTL sensor may require battery power though: Some energy will be
needed to operate the (e.g. silicon) photo diode and the electronic 
circuitry that generates the "quench" signal for the flash. Ordinary
flash sensors could use the flash power supply by means of a 
proprietary interface; this presumably doesn't work via the hotshoe.
(Someone knows any details?)

The advantages of TTL sensors that you name, Mark, are certainly
important. But IMHO they are just due to the fact that the TTL
sensor sits inside the camera (and not at the front, for instance).

So maybe the disagreement can be settled?
--
Detlef Lannert      DC3EK      E-Mail: tsos@rz.uni-duesseldorf.de
"Gedanken sind nicht stets parat,
man schreibt auch, wenn man keine hat."             Wilhelm Busch
From: jay@metran.UUCP (Jay Ts)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Nikon N90 technobabble
Date: 4 Sep 92 23:22:05 GMT
Organization: Metran Technology, Tampa, Florida

markl@research.nj.nec.com (Mark Lee) writes:
: After reading through Nikon's technobabble, I had to go shoot a
: role of film with the old FM2.
: 
: To me, the only really
: useful new features of the modern AF cameras are:
: 
: 1. TTL flash metering -- takes much of the guesswork out of getting good
: flash pictures in a hurry.

I have this on my Nikon FG, and almost never use it.  The problem is that
if you are going to have autoexposure and/or TTL flash metering, then you
really must have matrix metering to obtain consistently good exposures.
Unless, that is, you only photograph "average" scenes.

: 2. Built-in spot meter -- great for emphasizing certain portions of the
: photo, and in low ambient light situations.  Why can't Nikon add this to
: the FM2n, and come out with an "FM2ns"?

I totally agree.

As far as matrix metering, autoexposure and auto TTL flash exposure go,
I am not at all against them.

It would be great if Nikon would add spot metering (and a few other
simple features) to the FM2 and make, say, the FM3.  Then they could
bring back the FE line (FE3?) by adding a CPU and electronic shutter,
which would allow for matrix metering, and the advanced SB-24-type auto
flash exposure.

: 3. Autofocus --

Maybe after the technology matures.  Right now, autofocus is one of those
things (like power wind/rewind, power zoom, built-in flash) that force
cameras to use AA or lithium batteries.  I want to use 2 button batteries
maximum, and I want them to last a while, too!

: So is it just me, or do other feel that the zillion-plus-one whiz-bang
: high tech features being packed into cameras like the Nikon N90 or the
: Minolta xi series to be more distracting and intimidating than useful?

I am starting to think that there are enough of us -- who are called
"purists" and "traditionalists" in the Nikon FM2 sales brochure -- to
influence Nikon in a positive direction.  But we would all have to get
together and sign a petition or something...

: Or am I just too old-fashioned?

In my opinion, more like "too right" :-).  I don't mind the camera companies
making high-tech cameras and hype-marketing them even to professional
photographers; I do, however, still want to be able to purchase new
"traditional and pure" cameras and lenses for my own use.

Jay Ts
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au (Paul Repacholi)
Subject: Re: Morris Slaves and Nicads
Organization: Curtin University of Technology
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 22:26:03 GMT

In article <BuL3xC.LoM@ecf.toronto.edu>, chang@ecf.toronto.edu (CHANG Rong Fawn Teresa) writes:
...
>>circuit.  They get very hot when they do this.  In addition, using two 
>                          ^^^ 
>                          That's the way to give out heat!  But how come
>                          only one cell got very high temperature and not
>                          the others?  Is current pass through the 
>                          capacitor a constant/can't be easily absorbed (energy)?
> 
The one cell was marginal and went into thermal runaway. Lucky it was only a
AAA...

...
> This is a good question to be considered again when I'm going to do similar
> circuit theory problems!  How would you improve the speed to charge the
> capacitor?  Use a switch or what?  Thanks.
> 
Depends n type of converter used. Most cheap units use a 'ringing-choke' or
free running bi-stable converter. These reflect the output impedence of the
load to the input, and will clobber power sources that arn't current limited.

the best speed-up I've seen used 2 converters, one at ~.7 of full voltage,
plus 2 sets of caps, hence instant second shot, 3rd ~.1 sec recycle, then
shutdown to protect tube from melt-down!!

The BIGGEST problem in flash design is actualy getting caps that will remain
reliable under near short-circuit discharge conditions, not to mention getting
ANY high voltage ratted cap now-days. 450vw electro arn't as common as they
used to be...

~Paul

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: fyang@top.cis.syr.edu (Feng Yang)
Subject: FOR SALE: Canon AE-1 Program 
Organization: Syracuse University, CIS Dept.
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 92 00:10:53 EDT

FOR SALE: 

Canon AE-1 Program body, Canon FD 50mm f1.8 and Canon QE camera case.

Asking $150 or best offer.

The camera is in excellent condition (three years old).   
User manuals are included. 


Please use email to get phone number.


-- F. Yang
--
From: bbs.joyjit@tsoft.sf-bay.org (Joyjit Nath)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Mailing list for rec.photo
Date: 12 Sep 92 01:04:37 GMT
Organization: The TSoft BBS and Public Access Unix, +1 415 969 8238

Is there a mailing list for this group ? I mean, I dont have regular
access to this news group although I have an internet/uunet account.
What I want is to be able to get into a mailing list so that all
the articles that are posted here are mailed to me automatically.

Any help would be appreciated.

Please reply by email to
uunet!hcla!joyjit
      or
joyjit@hcla.com

--
Joyjit Nath (bbs.joyjit@tsoft.sf-bay.org)
From: baligh@pixmap.seas.upenn.edu (Muhammad Baligh-ur-Rehman)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Which is better EOS 10s or ELAN? info wanted.
Date: 11 Sep 92 20:21:21 GMT
Organization: University of Pennsylvania

Hi netters, I will greatly appreciate if someone sends me the advantages and 
disadvantages of Canon EOS 10s & Canon ELAN.Someone told me that there has
been a lot of discussion on net. I am thinking of buying one of these.

Thanking you in anticipation.

Baligh.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: robert@labtam.labtam.oz.au (Robert Groom)
Subject: Re: Auto Focu button on Canon EOS cameras (was Re: Photograping Whales)
Organization: Labtam Australia Pty. Ltd., Melbourne, Australia
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1992 01:52:30 GMT

zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au (Paul Repacholi) writes:

>In article <PD.92Sep3195233@horus.sics.se>, pd@sics.se (Per Danielsson) writes:
>> In article <1992Sep1.130735.27132@jyu.fi> konkkola@jyu.fi (Markku Konkkola) writes:
>> 
>>>In article 92Sep1111103@horus.sics.se, pd@sics.se (Per Danielsson) writes:
>>>> 
>>>> With a Canon USM lens you can manually adjust the focus even if the
>>>> lens is in AF mode. You press the shutter down halfway and if you
>>>> don't like what the AF thinks should be in focus, you can quickly
>>>> twist the focusing ring manually and take the picture.
>>>> 
>Beware, the later USMs, havee the focus ring permanantly connected and you
>can manualy focus any time. The 'L' USMs can be manualy focused *after AF has
>completed/given up* but not all the time. This is set by a CF in the body.

>>>> The Canon EOS RT (and perhaps also the EOS 10) can be customized to
>>>> use a separate button for initiating AF. This means that you can let
>>>> the camera set the focus automatically and then leave it at that
>>>> position for every following shot.

>Another CF. set the AElock button to AF and EAlock

I use this feature (CF4) on both my EOS-1 and 630 most of the time now.
With CF4 set and the EF28-80L USM lens switched to A, both auto and manual
focus *are* available all the time!
Pressing the AE button tells the camera to do the focusing.
Turning the focus ring on the lens lets you do it yourself.
The best of both worlds?
Yes, but there is a trap for young players...

The focus ring on 'L' USM lenses is just an encoder which sends signals to
the AF CPU (in the body) and the AF motor (in the lens).  Normally the CPU
only listens for these signals when the lens is switched to M (manual focus)
or, as described above, "*after AF has completed/given up*".
When CF4 is set though, the CPU listens for AF signals *all the time*.
This apparently requires significantly more battery power even when the
camera is just turned on but waiting in "standby" mode (before focusing or
metering).  Canon say the lithium 2CR5 battery in the EOS-1 should last about
50 (36exp) rolls.  The EF lens data sheet mentions that using the EF28-80L
reduces that by 50%, so we're down to about 25 rolls.  With CF4 set, it's
more like 10 rolls or less!  At least that's my experience; as they say in
the classics, your mileage may vary...
-- 
Robert Q. Groom                            "My other computer is an EOS-1"
robert@labtam.oz.au
Labtam Australia Pty Ltd         phone: +61-3-587-1444 fax: +61-3-580-5581
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: altman@camis.stanford.edu (Russ B. Altman)
Subject: Need inexpensive B&W processing
Followup-To: rec.photo
Organization: Stanford University Medical Center
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 18:06:15 GMT

With the proliferation of automated color processing, I have found it
difficult to find a place to send my black and white rolls (35mm)
for contact sheets or even small 3x5's or something.  I would like a 
place of reasonable quality, low prices, time is not essential.  Any
mail-in services?

Thanks,
Russ

p.s. Also a good source for bulk B&W film would be nice.
From: good@pixar.com (Craig Good: Got it floored in neutral.)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Tilt and Shift.  How useful are they?
Date: 13 Sep 92 05:57:08 GMT
Organization: Pixar -- Point Richmond, California


I thought I'd mention a couple of the uses of camera movements in people
photography.  I used a tilt to great success in a shot of a reclinging
figure whose feet were rather near the camera.  I could have stopped down
to some horrific f-number and set off a tactical nuke for lighting, but I
had an easier time just tilting the lens board to align the plane of focus
with her body.  Obligatory Sinar Puffing: The Sinar has a cute little system
which makes determining the amount of tilt simple and quick enough that I was
able to focus the system before the model got a cramp from holding the pose.

I'm also aware of some fashion/beauty shots which use wild tilts to deliberately
throw most of the shot out of focus.  The plane of focus is made to intersect
only with the standing model's face, and the lens is wide open.  The effect can
be quite dramatic.

		--Craig
-- 
	good@pixar.com
-
Vote for a change this fall! 
Vote all those Liberal Tax-N-Spendocrats out of Congress!
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: goldis@news.weeg.uiowa.edu (Al Goldis)
Subject: Re: Pushing Kodak Ectapress
Organization: University of Iowa, Iowa City, IA, USA
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 19:28:40 GMT

In <mac.41@mac@ur.utk.ed> mac@mac@ur.utk.ed (Richard J. McDougald) writes:
>	Anyway, you heard me right.  Ektapress 1600 processed normally looks
>as tight as Gold 400 processed normally.  Also, we have used the 1600 to 

An older version of Gold 400, certainly, but I don't think the same is
true for Ektapress 1600 vs. current Ektapress 400 or Gold 400+.  Even
if the grain is similar, I don't think the sharpness and detail are.
--
Al Goldis           alan-goldis@uiowa.edu
"Pictures are moments truth, touched by light, that show character."
                          --Annie Griffiths-Belt
From: Jim.Chapman@f706.n278.z1.fidonet.org
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: ILFORD XP2
X-Sender: newtout 0.02 Aug 21 1992
Date: 09 Sep 92  00:25:00

I'm about to delve into Ilford XP2--this is the weird B&W film that uses
color dyes, and requires C41 processing.  Does anybody have any
experience, wisdom, folklore about this stuff?


--- QM v1.00
From: parsons1@applelink.apple.COM (Don Parsons)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Nikon Photo School: is it good?
Date: 15 Sep 92 00:58:48 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Apple Computer, Inc.

In article <nataraja.716219845@opal12>, nataraja@rtsg.mot.com (Kumaravel Natarajan) writes:
> 
> hchong@netcom.com (Hoi Chong) writes:
> 
> >From article <wefBU=C00WBL42orBE@andrew.cmu.edu>, by Luis Abdon Cifuentes <lc0v+@andrew.cmu.edu>:
> >> Hello netters, 
> >> 
> >>  I just received a brochure about the Nikon Photo School. It will be in
> >> town this weekend, so I wanted to know if somebody has attended it and
> >> has  comments about it. Being a graduate student, I have very good uses
> >> for $75, so I want to know if the thing is worth it before trying it.
> 
> >If nothing else, all the snobbish F4s'ers (your truly included) can get
> >togather and compare their cameras and say bad things about Canon.
> >(of course, we can also thump our noses at the 8008s'ers and F3'ers...)
> 
> Doesn't your nose get all bruised from "thumping" it all the time?
> 
> >Feeling a bit cocky today...  


This certainly turned into a productive discussion. I have the same question
about the Nikon School because I just registered for the March 93 San Francisco
session. Equipment bashing does not help anyone determine if the Nikon School
is worth the $75 and an entire weekend. If anyone has been through it, some of
us would greatly appreciate any comments.
From: philg@zurich.ai.mit.edu (Philip Greenspun)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: HELP: problem with Velvia (N8008 ...)
Date: 14 Sep 92 16:46:22 GMT
Reply-To: philg@martigny.ai.mit.edu
Organization: M.I.T. Artificial Intelligence Lab.
In-reply-to: luong@naxos.inria.fr's message of 14 Sep 92 13:21:20 GMT

In article <29364@sophia.inria.fr> luong@naxos.inria.fr (Quang-Tuan Luong) writes:

   Two questions:

   1. I shot an important roll of Velvia at 80 asa. Should I have it
    processed normaly, or should I ask for a push-processing ?

Push it 2/3 of a stop.  Velvia is designed to be pushed up to 1 stop
(2 stops begins to look a little lurid).

   2. I began a second roll in the same conditions. Should I finish it
    at 50 asa, or stick to 80 asa ?

Stick to 80 if the old shots are important.

   For information, the problem was caused by a feature of the Nikon 8008
   that I find nasty: DX code is *not* prioritary over manual setting of 
   film sensibility. I shot a Kodachrome 64 film before, and used the manual
   setting of sensibility to expose it at 80. Then I removed the batteries 
   for almost a night to reload them. However, the manual setting at 80 was 
   still there, and I forgot to check.

I make it a habit to punch the ISO button after every film loading.
This way I am sure that the camera has DX'd the film correctly.  I've
never gotten screwed, but I hear that sometimes the contacts get dirty
or some other problem leads to the camera being wrong.

Philip Greenspun
MIT Department of EECS
From: jayg@wpi.WPI.EDU (Jay Giurleo)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Need comments on 5005/6006
Date: 11 Sep 1992 17:07:19 GMT
Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute
NNTP-Posting-Host: wpi.wpi.edu

Hello all, I'm looking to purchase an SLR.  After playing with a friend's Nikon
4004, I've decided that I like the feel of the camera.  I've been looking at
the different Nikon models, and it's pretty obvious that there is a significant
difference between the 5005(which has a similar design to the 4004 - dials to 
control the aperature+shutter etc) and the 6006.  The 6006 has a digital 
display of all of the settings, etc.

Can someone comment on the major differences between these styles and the
pluses and minuses of each?  Does all of this extra digital stuff make taking
pictures more complicated? Or will this aid me in taking better pictures?

Thanks very much for any help.

  -Jay Giurleo


 
-- 
                                  
     Jay Giurleo - jayg@wpi.wpi.edu - WPI Box 2080 - Worcester, MA 01609
From: feltman@hpscit.sc.hp.com (Robert Feltman)
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 20:42:22 GMT
Subject: Re: 4x5 T-Max: your experiences
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Clara, CA
Newsgroups: rec.photo

Hey Barry,

Got a recommendation for n-1, n-2 using HC110 and T-Max 100? My N-1
is aabout as short as I want to go (120 in roll film tank), but
want to be able to do n-2. I assume more dilution of HC110 would
do it. Got a starting place for me to "cook" with?

Thanks

Bob