HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: carolp@techbook.com (Carolyn Peterson)
Subject: Re: HELP-How do I get a pattern to fit correctly?
Organization: TECHbooks --- Public Access UNIX --- (503) 220-0636
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 22:48:14 GMT


A short fitting course at a local fabric store really helped
with my fitting problems.  (It was the Palmer/Pletsch course
taught at Fabricland by Marta Alto, if anyone in the Portland,
Oregon area is interested.)  The course included a slide show
about various pattern alterations.  Each woman in the class
was measured for the correct pattern size, fitted in a shell
and given a written chart of the shell adjustments required to
get a good fit for her.

Some of the information from the slide section is in _Painless
Sewing_ by Pati Palmer & Susan Pletsch.  _Painless Sewing_ has
a couple of nice charts for the comfort ease needed for
different types of garments and different size ranges and has
some information about  pivot and slide alterations.  I like
the slash type instructions better in _The Perfect Fit_ by
Singer but my copy doesn't have the comfort ease information
presented well and doesn't cover pivot and slide at all.  The
_Painless Sewing_ book is a basic sewing book with
some fitting in it, not a fitting book.

The first thing we found was that everyone had been buying
patterns at least one size too big, some up to 3 sizes too
big!  To get a good fit in the upper torso area, use a high
bust measurement not a full bust.  The measurements should be
snug and taking while in under garments.  Buying patterns by a
full bust measurement that was taken comfortably while fully
dressed can cause you to buy patterns 2 sizes too big to start
with.  Marta had 3 dozen different sizes of fitting shells to
use as a starting point for adjustments (sizes 6-22 with cup
sizes A-DD in each size) that were made from the McCalls
fitting pattern.

Making the adjustments that were indicated by the fitting
shell for the shoulders, bust and back areas for me have been
great!  I measure the pattern tissue at the waist and hips to
see if there is enough ease there for me, or if I need to
alter it--that can go either way in my case, depending on the
design.  I do a quick tissue fit after making the alterations
and before cutting out the garment.  During construction, I
try it on a few more times.  I used to skip these little
"details"  No wonder things didn't fit well on me!  I had put
no effort into making them fit.

Seeing a dozen women being fitted in shells really shows *why*
the pattern companies can't make patterns that fit everyone.
I would still like to take a full course in fitting sometime,
but for now, having a fitting shell done by a professional
dressmaker and getting a list of the standard adjustments I
need is great!  Sometimes very minor changes need to be made
during construction, but the adjustments indicated by the
fitting shell take care of most of my fitting process.

[My only association with Fabricland, Palmer/Pletsch and the
Singer books is as a paying customer.]

-- 
Carolyn Peterson          
carolp@techbook.COM  
(No affiliation with techbooks)
From: jane@soave.swdc.stratus.com (Jane Beckman)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: heirloom sewing book
Date: 22 Jan 93 02:41:28 GMT
Organization: Stratus Computer, Inc., San Jose, CA

I made an inquiry a while back, about a good heirloom
*handsewing* book (as opposed to handsewing by machine).  I
got this reply from Marina Sallume,but she can't post here, and 
asked if I would post to the group.

So here is her recommendation:
----------
On Alt.sewing, you asked about a good book for French
hand sewing. I love "Stunning Stitches" by Primrose Sully
(great name). It was published in Australia and is about $30.

It includes her original patterns for embroidery with
silk ribbons, etc. She has arranged the projects to start with
the simpler ones and get more complex, so you can use it as
an embroidery course. The projects are: sachet, shoe bag,
baby's nightgown, crib blanket, lily of the valley pillowcase,
detachable collars for blouses, half slip and "knickers", 
bed jacket, coat hanger, door stop, camisole, pillows, 
bridge cloth, sweaters, woman's nightgown, beaded ornament.
The illustrations and photos are gorgeous! She prefers to
do everything by hand altho some of the items could be done
partially on the sewing machine.

Here's the publisher info:

Published by Primrose Sully, 6 Burgoyne Avenue, Gordon,
New South Wales, Australia. Pub in 1990. ISBN 0646005189




--
  Jilara   [jane@swdc.stratus.com]

"Every now and then, a big rock falls out of the sky, and everyone has 
a *very bad* day."  --from the PBS "Dinosaurs" special.
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: selina@cdc.hp.com (Selina Fong)
Subject: Chi Pants
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 22:06:23 GMT
Organization: HP California Design Center, Santa Clara, CA
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8]

Chi Pants in Santa Cruz did go out of business.  I believe it was 
unable to recover from the damage of the 1989 earthquake.  


Selina Fong
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: crai0010@student.tc.umn.edu ()
Subject: Re: HELP-How do I get a pattern to fit correctly?
Organization: University of Minnesota
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 14:25:46 GMT

In article <C187CI.183@techbook.com> carolp@techbook.com (Carolyn Peterson) writes:
>
>The first thing we found was that everyone had been buying
>patterns at least one size too big, some up to 3 sizes too
>big!  To get a good fit in the upper torso area, use a high
>bust measurement not a full bust.  The measurements should be
>snug and taking while in under garments.  Buying patterns by a
>full bust measurement that was taken comfortably while fully
>dressed can cause you to buy patterns 2 sizes too big to start
>with.  Marta had 3 dozen different sizes of fitting shells to
>use as a starting point for adjustments (sizes 6-22 with cup
>sizes A-DD in each size) that were made from the McCalls
>fitting pattern.

Question:  Can fitting shells from one pattern company be used to fit
patterns from other companies?  I know each of the companies has its own
standard as far as sizes go.  I'm very far off the "average" size and
shape, but pattern fitting has never been a problem since I tend to favor
baggy clothes.  However, right now I'm trying to make my wedding dress
from a Style pattern and it's driving me nuts.  It's strapless with a
portrait collar, so proper fit is essential.  I made a "rough draft" from
muslin and it doesn't fit at all (way too big in the bust and shoulders,
bags and wrinkles in all the wrong places).  I don't think Style makes a
fitting shell; could I use one from, say, McCall's or Vogue and make the
adjustment on the Style pattern?  Or should I try to alter the muslin and 
use that as the pattern?

Thanks much for your help!  (This is a great newsgroup!)
-- 
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Craig           |"Did you see the people walk right in from 
Dept. of Chem, Univ. of MN| the street?  That music -- that heavenly 
craig@chemsun.chem.umn.edu| music...Reverend Mother, it called to them."
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: Best Basic Sewing Book?
From: kristen@telerama.pgh.pa.us (Kristen McQuillin)
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 18:03:27 GMT
Organization: Telerama
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8]

Annie Fetter (fetter@forum.swarthmore.edu) wrote:
: I poll the great multitudes out there for comments on the most
: comprehensive basic sewing book.  Right now my sewing consists of quilts,
: but I thought I might actually like to sew some simple clothing, but need
: help with some of the terms and techniques.

: Any suggestions?  Or just point me to the FAQ if that's appropriate...

A book which I still go to for reference is the _Reader's Digest
Complete Guide to Sewing_. It covers everything from sissors to
buttonholes, and even has some funky 1970's sewing projects at the
end. Its focus is on clothing, but much of that information can be
used for other things as well. It is well organised and has many
diagrams and pictures.

I received mine as a gift many years ago. You might check your local
bookstore or ask if it can be ordered. The ISBN is 0-89577-026-1 and
it is published by the Readers Digest Association, Pleasantville, NY.
From: sg@tredysvr.Tredydev.Unisys.COM (Susanne Gilliam)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Holes in Interlock
Date: 26 Jan 93 17:28:55 GMT
Organization: Unisys Corporation, Tredyffrin, PA


  I need help from those of you that have been sewing with interlock longer
than I have.  I bought a serger last May, and have made a mind boggling number
of things for my kids since then (and 2 turtlenecks for me, and 1 shirt
for my husband!).  I've learned a lot, but I've come up with a problem
I don't understand, and I'm hoping you can help.
  In several outfits I've made, holes have developed along the seamline.  They
look basically like moth holes from a size standpoint, and they are near,
but not on, the seam.  My daughters sweatpants, made out of good quality
French Terry have 5 such holes along the full length of the crotch seam.
My son's (just completed) pj's have them in the same place, and they are
out of a heavy (silky soft!) interlock.  One turtleneck out of good
quality interlock is doing the same on a shoulder seam, and still another
near the seam that attaches the neck band.
  Close examination reveals that (1) the seam appears stable and is not
ripping out, (2) all edges of the fabric were caught (e.g. this isn't
a "fold" popping out of the seam), (3) the holes where the needle went
thru *are not* the problem; they haven't ripped or run together.
  The one shoulder seam was stablized with binding tape sewn into the seam;
the rest are just two layers of fabric sewn together.  I use the 4/3 
serger stitch (i.e. it has a straight lower line of stitching for strength).
  The seams where it is occurring so far have all been seams that get
some pulling (especially the neck band one), but not excessively so.  I
know the "underneath" part of a crotch seam on toddler clothing is bound
to get a lot of stretching, but I wouldn't expect that to occur all the
way up to the waist band in front and back, which it is.  I do change
my needle, though maybe not quite as often as I should, and if it was
that, I'd expect problems throughout the whole garment.  Maybe I need
to stabilize/strengthen the seams somehow, but I don't know how.      
  Any suggestions would be welcome.  I've been so happy with how many
outfits I can make with the serger that look and feel better than store
bought, but if they are going to develop holes this fast, I'm in
trouble!
 
					Susanne Gilliam
From: Dawn_Scotting@kcbbs.gen.nz (Dawn Scotting)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: Duvets
Date: 26 Jan 93 04:38:51 GMT
Organization: Kappa Crucis Unix BBS, Auckland, New Zealand

HF.MMX@forsythe.stanford.edu (Marilee Marshall) writes:   
>I think I'm missing something on this duvet discussion.  Isn't a  
>duvet the cover for a down comforter?  
  
My dictionary says: Duvet - Coverlet stuffed with down. It also says a  
comforter is a woollen scarf! I think the word 'comforter' is strictly  
an American term. Other terms are: Eiderdown, Quilt and possibly many  
more! I guess it all depends on where you come from what they are called!  
Here in New Zealand a Duvet is usually stuffed with either down feathers  
or acrylic materials, the latter being a lot cheaper and not so warm in  
the winter. You can get them with either removeable covers or  
non-removeable, the latter mainly being used as an extra cover like an  
eiderdown. You can get tuck-in ones for the kids (or adults) or just  
ones that you throw over the bed & then there are the ones that are a  
duvet and bedspread all in one (called a three-in-one) that tucks in  
underneath the top that falls to the floor, it also covers the pillow.  
   
  ---------------------------------------------------------------------  
 | PLEASE READ THIS----As I must pay for every byte of email received  |  
 | please do NOT quote my own message back to me. pandora@kcbbs.gen.nz |  
  ---------------------------------------------------------------------  
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: riggle@adobe.com (Kathleen Riggle)
Subject: Re: LOOKING FOR DISCOUNT OR MAIL ORDER SOURCES FOR SEWING MACHINES
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated, Mountain View
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 18:42:47 GMT

In article <1993Jan26.171301.27397@StarConn.com> sallyh@StarConn.com (Sally Holmes) writes:
>mlfrey@bbn.com (Mary Lou Frey) writes:
>
>>I bought a Bernina 1530 from Sewin' in Vermont at the end of Nov' 92.  
>>Sewin in Vermont's prices were 600+ dollars less on the 1230 model.  
>
>Sewing machine prices are like car prices: negotiable. If there's a
>dealer near you who you like, and who offers classes and clubs and
>after-sales service, it's well worth trying to haggle. I got $900 off my
>Viking #1! (but my husband and I are very good at haggling :-))

I bought my serger from Sewin' In Vermont.  I bought a 5-thread Elna.
I thought that if I could get a dealer around here to come within $100
of the price, it would be worth it to buy locally.  The Elna dealers I
went to quoted me around $899 and none would come down.  Two of them
told me that they were the lowest price around and the other dealers
were mad at them for selling so low.  So, I bought mail order.  It
cost 776 (I think) and about $14 to ship to California.  I saved about
$200 (after you add in sales tax.)

For training, I took a serger class at a local community college for $6.

The people on the phone were polite and knowledgeable and not pushy.

I'm looking at buying a new sewing machine and when I do, I'll
probably mail order it.  The price on the Viking #1 is $400 less than
I've seen it around here.

Sewin' In Vermont carries Juki, Singer and Bernina sergers.  I heard
through the grapevine they no longer carry Elna, but I don't know if
that is true.  The carry Viking and Bernina sewing machines and
perhaps others.  In the sergers, they seemed to carry only the
top of the line in each line.  I'm not sure if the same is true of
sewing machines.

Their number is 1-800-451-5124.

Kathie
-- 
riggle@mv.us.adobe.com
From: suzy@skat.usc.edu (Susan A. Musil)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Rennaisance/Elizabethan Patterns
Date: 22 Jan 1993 14:04:57 -0800
Organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: skat.usc.edu

I am looking for Mens patterns for an Elizabetha or Rennaisance
Costume.
Something along the lines of a jerkin and pants or a fancy slashed
jacket and pants.  If anyone can give me a lead please send an e-mail
message to musil@bailey.ateng.az.honeywell.com.  I do not get news at
my work site.

Susan

ps: Many thanks to the good folks at USC for this connectivity.
From: Holly.Doyne@f172.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Holly Doyne)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: patterns
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1993 14:13:43 -0500

Much thanks to all of you who volunteered to take a bunch of
these patterns off of my hands - 15 envelops went out in 
todays' mail.

I still have a bunch of girls 8,10,12's and some "campy at best"
hold overs from the 1970's in sizes 8-12 if any one is interested.

also 12 issues of Vogue knitting and some misc womens sweater patterns.

all of above free to good homes

email to hdoyne@f172.n109.z1.fidonet.org

                     - Holly
From: ron.parker@uttsbbs.uucp (Ron Parker)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Looking for a COMPUTER PROGREAM
Date: 24 Jan 93 08:24:00 GMT
Reply-To: ron.parker@uttsbbs.uucp (Ron Parker)
Organization: The Transfer Station BBS, Danville, CA - 510-837-4610/837-5591


   On Sat, 23 Jan 1993 01:37:00 GMT asdmf@acad3.alaska.edu (The
       Electric Messiah) wrote:

TEM.Hi there!  I am looking for a computer program that is able to print out
TEM.patterns and other information on a computer.  If you happen to have one out
TEM.there and is willing to send me a copy, I would be forever in your debt...

There is a demo of PC Patterns avilable on Fibernet (218-583-4337, 8N1,
1200-14400) as PCPAT.ZIP.  I gather from your Internet address that you
are from AK.  Thus, you may be able to download the file from Fibernet's
Anchorage node - The Alaska Pirate Society BBS - 907-562-1854 - if they
have grabbed that file from Fibernet.

Ron Parker
ron.parker%uttsbbs%boo@pacbell.com
---
 . QWiKerNet 0.69 . Fibernet BBS Henning, Mn 218-583-4337
                                                             
----
+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| The Transfer Station BBS (510) 837-4610 & 837-5591 (V.32bis both lines)|
| Danville, California, USA. 400+ MB Files & FREE public Internet Access |
+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: caroline@sco.COM (friend of a fiend)
Subject: Chi Pants mail-order?  (was Re: pattern: pants with gusset)
Organization: The Santa Cruz Operation, Inc.
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 15:37:53 GMT


In article <1jjv85INN8g3@shelley.u.washington.edu> nicolett@carson.u.washington.edu (Nicolette Roberge) writes:
>A mail-order outlet called Chi-pants sells many styles of clothing in all
>cotton.  Their pants have crotch gussets.

Can you post the mail-order address and/or phone number for Chi Pants?

They used to have a whole store here in Santa Cruz, but they 
closed it down about a year after the earthquake.  I thought
they had gone out of business forever.  One of these days, my
favorite pair of Chi Pants are going to wear out, and I'd love
to be able to replace them when that happens.

Thanks,
=caroline=
-- 

It's been a bloody odd day.... not even a two plus two equals five kind of
day, more like two plus two equals ... fish ... or something.

						-- from 'Cages'
Xref: sparky alt.sewing:3894 rec.crafts.textiles:2726
From: lisa@elc11.icase.edu (Lisa A. Leutenegger)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing,rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Bernina Questions
Date: 28 Jan 1993 15:17:17 GMT
Organization: ICASE/NASA Langley
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: elc11.icase.edu


I'm looking into getting a new sewing machine and am pretty convinced
I will be getting a bernina.  I guess I'm not quite going about this
in the normal way - going out and test driving the machines, picking
the one I like best, etc... - because the bernina dealers in my
area are truely lame!  At one store they hadn't even heard of the
1031 - at the other they didn't yet have them in - and neither store
had any literature or could tell me anything about them.  They don't
have bernina clubs - don't have much in the way of lessons - so I
say forget them - and I will mail order my machine and get it cheap
(cheap?!? - hahahaha).

So now I am trying to figure out what machine I should get - which is
a tad bit hard since I don't know what the features are on the machines.
So far I have gotten it narrowed down to 3 different machines:

1021 - this is discontinued but I found a place that has 1
1031 - the current top of the line mechanical (right?)
1090 - the bottom of the line computerized (right?)

If you know anything about the features of these machines - or what
comes standard with the machine (which feet - how many stitches - how
the buttonhole do-dad works...) I would appreciate the info.  I actually
have that info for the 1090 - I even sewed with one of these.

I'm definitely leaning towards the 1021 and 1031 but don't really know
what the difference is.

Opinions on mechanical vs. computerized are also welcome.
(If it helps I am a quilter and on a rare occasion I might make
a simple article of clothing - like maybe once every 2 years -
of course after Marie-Christine Mahe comes down at the end of feb
and teaches me how to sew on knit I might be more inclined to
make some clothes for my 5 month old.)

Thanks for any info you can offer!

			---lisa  (lisa@icase.edu)

ps - if you have a few hundred $$ that you don't need I could end this
      decision period and go right for the 1530 :-)
From: ladybug@hydra.unm.edu (Carol E. Newby)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: ALT.SEWING FAQ: ME TOO!  Oanea
Date: 27 Jan 93 23:49:48 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of New Mexico, Albuquerque
NNTP-Posting-Host: hydra.unm.edu

In article <1k1b02INNruq@skat.usc.edu> suzy@skat.usc.edu (Susan A. Musil) writes:
(text deleted)..............  They are supposedly listed in the
>alt.sewing FAQ.  Could some kind soul please e-mail me a copy of this?
>
Could some kind soul out there also email me this FAQ? There is bound to be
*lots* of interesting stuff in it, especially now that my love of sewing
has been reignited with my love of costume design here at UNM.

Thanks,
Carol  
-- 
internet: ladybug@hydra.unm.edu              BITNET: ladybug@unmb

         "I know you think you understand what you think I said,
             but I'm not sure what you heard is what I meant" Anon.
From: deeds@oracle (Deanna J. Deeds)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: Duvets
Date: 21 Jan 93 18:54:17 GMT
Reply-To: deeds@solaria.hac.com
Distribution: usa
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]

Cynthia Sanoy (csanoy@bcars689.NoSubdomain.NoDomain) wrote:
: There is a discussion about comforter/duvet covers currently going 
: in rec.crafts.textiles.  

There is??  I must be missing half the threads!!  How does my version
of the newsgroup keep from falling apart??

:) :) :)

Seriously, why does this happen and how can I fix it if at all?
--
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Deanna J. Deeds                                        deeds@solaria.hac.com
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: asdmf@acad3.alaska.edu (The Electric Messiah)
Subject: Looking for a COMPUTER PROGREAM
Organization: Starfleet Command - - U.S.S. Tsunami/NCC-1710-D
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1993 01:37:00 GMT
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
X-Posted-From: acad3.alaska.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: sol.ctr.columbia.edu

(This posting is for a friend)

Hi there!  I am looking for a computer program that is able to print out
patterns and other information on a computer.  If you happen to have one out
there and is willing to send me a copy, I would be forever in your debt...

Thanks!

Xref: sparky alt.sewing:3893 rec.crafts.textiles:2725
From: molnarb@crd.ge.com
Newsgroups: alt.sewing,rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Cotton Knits
Date: 28 Jan 93 18:34:38 GMT
Reply-To: molnarb@crd.ge.com
Distribution: usa
Organization: GE Corporate R&D Center, Schenectady, NY


Can anyone tell me a source for high quality
cotton knits and cotton knit fleece?  One in
the eastern NY area or mail order would be
great.

Thanks,
Barb
From: mlfrey@bbn.com (Mary Lou Frey)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: LOOKING FOR DISCOUNT OR MAIL ORDER SOURCES FOR SEWING MACHINES
Date: 26 Jan 1993 14:05:16 GMT
Organization: Bolt Beranek and Newman (BBN)
NNTP-Posting-Host: flounder.bbn.com

I bought a Bernina 1530 from Sewin' in Vermont at the end of Nov' 92.  This is
too recent to have service experience with them but they were very polite
over the phone.  The price was excellent and I decided I could forego the
lessons and personalized service a "local" dealer would provide.  I use quotes
around local because even though I live in a big city area (Boston), I only
found two dealers who carried Berninas.  The nearest one to me did not carry
the service booklets or have the club features I have heard touted and was
generally unimpressive.  The other guy I met at a quilt show and he was VERY
nice but his shop is 1+ hours from my house.  I never went there because
Sewin in Vermont's prices were 600+ dollars less on the 1230 model.  In fact,
that is why I went to the 1530 - I could get more machine for a little bit
more than I was originally willing to pay.

Mary Lou

PS I LOVE my machine.  Just haven't figured everything out about it.
From: Colin_Douthwaite@equinox.gen.nz (Colin Douthwaite)
Subject: Re: Summary of response: bobbin tension & teaching sewing
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8]
Date: 28 Jan 93 14:51:07 +1200
Organization: Equinox Networks


There is a book in print:

THE COMPLETE HANDBOOK OF SEWING MACHINE REPAIR by Howard Hutchinson.
Published 1980
TAB BOOKS INC, Blue Ridge Summit, PA. 17214

A technical book shop could order you a copy.

Also try your local public library - they often have a surprisingly large
collection of older publications.