HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: dale@ais.org (Dale Gee)
Subject: Re: Kilns and firebricks.
Organization: UMCC
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 17:41:41 GMT

In article <jfsenior.714930823@unix1.tcd.ie> jfsenior@unix1.tcd.ie (John Senior) writes:
>Refractory cement is still very expensive.  I just had a look at "Pioneer
>pottery" by Michael Cardew - and he gives a recipe for fire-brick as
>20% bond clay and 80% fine grog.  Does anyone happen to know what bond
>clay is?  How did you use the ceramic fibre in your forge?  Did you
>build a frame from ordinary bricks and line it or something similar?
>I am pretty sure that it has a high silica content and so would be
>completely unsuitable for salt-firing (also the smoke probably wouldn't
>do it any good.)
>
>John.
>--
>Jfsenior@vax1.tcd.ie in case you were wondering.

I used piece of sewer pipe for the body of my forge.  What kind of heat
source are you planing to use for your kiln. We use propane to fire 
our forge.  The sewer pipe has a thickness of aprox 14 gauge. I don't know
what smoke will do it.  It might do nothing to it. We purchased our ko-wool
from a place that sells and builds wood stoves.  

Send me some more info about your kiln and I will ring up the place we
purschased it and ask.

About fire bricks. We use fire brick for the bottom and ends of the forge.
We are noticing that after awhile the heating and cooling of the bricks 
is starting to make them crack.  My best friend builds industrial size
kilns, induction furnaces and they pour the linings for them. I will
give him a call tonight and pick his brain for you.

Dale



Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
From: jfsenior@unix1.tcd.ie (John Senior)
Subject: Re: Kilns and firebricks.
X-Comment: All is vanity.
Organization: Craig Shergold Picture Postcard Corp.  
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 15:53:43 GMT

Dale@sol.cs.wmich.edu (Dale Gee) writes:
> Yes, it's called refractory cement. Go back to your fire brick place and ask
> for it.  Another idea is to use KO-Wool (phonetic spelling) It's a cermanic
> material that comes in a blanket.  We use it in our forge.  I love it.
> It's light weight, easy to install. Only draw back it makes you itch, so
> wear gloves when handling it.  

Refractory cement is still very expensive.  I just had a look at "Pioneer
pottery" by Michael Cardew - and he gives a recipe for fire-brick as
20% bond clay and 80% fine grog.  Does anyone happen to know what bond
clay is?  How did you use the ceramic fibre in your forge?  Did you
build a frame from ordinary bricks and line it or something similar?
I am pretty sure that it has a high silica content and so would be
completely unsuitable for salt-firing (also the smoke probably wouldn't
do it any good.)

John.
--
Jfsenior@vax1.tcd.ie in case you were wondering.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
From: hank@well.sf.ca.us (Hank Roberts)
Subject: Re: Brass/bronze melting at home?
Organization: Whole Earth 'Lectronic Link
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 03:52:39 GMT


Be very, very careful about ventilation.

Read up on "brass fume fever" (nasty but transient) and on lead
poisoning (subtle and cumulative, and think about the next person
who might be living/working in the space where you melt any brass.

Both the lead and the zinc will boil out of melted brass and cause trouble.

I'd stick with having professionals do casting.

MINIMALLY, obtain a full respirator setup AND have real flow-through
ventilation equivalent to a chemical hood exhausting into someplace safe.

Good luck, have fun, be careful.
From: david@talgras.UUCP (David Hoopes)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
Subject: Re: Melting Metal
Date: 30 Aug 92 14:00:09 GMT
Reply-To: david@talgras.UUCP (David Hoopes)
Organization: Tallgrass Technologies Inc.

In article <1992Aug28.203725.5154@wam.umd.edu> thalx@wam.umd.edu (Chris Daniel) writes:
>For melting metal, I suggest contacting Lindsey Publications.  Specifically,
>they carry the "Dave Gingery" series of books... "Make a Machine Shop
>from Scratch".
>
 [Stuff Deleted]
>
>According to the book, with enough fuel, the furnace can easily melt
>brass... and with some size scaling, possibly cast iron! 
>
>From memory..
>
>	Al:     1200 F
>	Brass   1600 
>	Iron    2500
>

This would probably work for brass, but not for iron.  Most people don't
realize that metal will burn.  At a high enough temperature metal will
will combust and burn just like wood.  The fun thing about iron is that
the tempurature that iron burns is lower then the melting temp.  That 
means that you can only melt iron in a oxygen free invironment.  It 
takes a much more complex setup then most home shops can handle.

The University at Urbana Il. has the smallest setup that I have seen.  I
have seen the furnace, but have not seen it put to use.  It is about 
eight feet tall, and takes a lot of room.  Someday I hope to see it put
to use.

The brass should not be a problem.  Propane is a lot cleaner to use then
coal, or charcoal.

 
-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------
David Hoopes                              Tallgrass Technologies Inc. 
david@tallgrass.COM                       11100 W 82nd St.          
Voice: (913) 492-6002 x323                Lenexa, Ks  66214
From: 33s@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Angie Brvenik)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
Subject: Turning your Carft into a Business
Date: 25 Aug 92 16:58:38 GMT
Reply-To: 33s@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Angie Brvenik)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

I would like information on turning my love of crafts into a business.
I have several specialties that Ive made and sold at work especially
during holidays (Christmas, Easter, etc.).  The money part is where
I have a problem.  How do you decide the asking price?  How do you keep
track of money spent (material) and money earned (profit)?
Any ideas/suggestion would be appreciated.

Angie
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
From: bhays@teal.csn.org (Boyd Hays)
Subject: Re: Kilns and firebricks.
Organization: Colorado SuperNet, Inc.
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 13:36:17 GMT

Hello,

    Another option is to use bricks that are designed for flue liners. I used
    to build hard brick kilns from these bricks, which at the time were 10% the
    cost of a regulation fire brick. They worked fine at cone 10 although one
    might want to fire a couple in a salt kiln to see if the additional flux
    doesn't cause problems.

    These bricks apparently are intended for use in the flues of chimneys and
    as such mature at higher tempatures than "normal" bricks. I used to purchase
    them from a company in the Los Angeles area "Pacific Clay Products" although
    you can probably find them most anywhere.

Boyd Hays
From: thalx@wam.umd.edu (Chris Daniel)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
Subject: Melting Metal
Date: 28 Aug 92 20:37:25 GMT
Organization: University of Maryland, College Park

For melting metal, I suggest contacting Lindsey Publications.  Specifically,
they carry the "Dave Gingery" series of books... "Make a Machine Shop
from Scratch".

Book One is on how to make an aluminum furnace.  It is very informative.
I *finally* got around to building it, and did my first aluminum pour
last weekend.

The furnace itself is built within a 5-gallon metal bucket.  The fuel is
charcoal... yup, same stuff you roast beef and chicken on.  However,
it takes a forced-air blast to drive up the temperature.

For the lining, I looked up "Refractory" in the yellow pages of the
nearest true industrial area (Baltimore), and found a company, A.P. Greene.
They carry all sorts of firebrick, and what are called "Castable Refractory"
You mix it up similar to concrete, pour, and voila!  A custom refractory
lining.

The lining I picked (read:  what they had in stock since I didn't call
ahead before driving up)  was "GreenLite 19-L", or something like that.
It cost about $18 a bag... a 25 lb. bag.  With the 5 gallons of water
it took, it supposedly is about 1 cubic foot.  (I think it was a bit
more, though.)

The 19-L has a max. temp rating of 1900 degrees F.  I had wanted 
"Castable Refractory #22", which has a max temp of 2200 F.  But,
had I called ahead, I would have found out that they were out...

After about 10 minutes of trying to light the charcoal (without
lighter fluid...stupid me forgot to pick some up), it took about
10 or 15 minutes to melt about 16 ounces (fluid) of aluminum.  This
is with a hefty blower (vacuum hooked up backwards), and sparks flew
out the top and sides for a few feet.  Obviously I did it outside...
on a convenient concrete patio.

My lining was about 1.5 inches thick on the sides and bottom.  I made
a seperate lid about 2" thick, with a 1.5" hole in the middle, for
the hot gases to escape.

According to the book, with enough fuel, the furnace can easily melt
brass... and with some size scaling, possibly cast iron! 

From memory..

	Al:     1200 F
	Brass   1600 
	Iron    2500

------

Safety should fall under Common Sense, I won't mention that molten
metal burns clear thru skin...


I don't have the Lindsay Publications address with me, I can post
it if people are interested.  I also don't read news often, so if
you have questions to ask me, mail them to me.

					-Chris
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
From: khare@watserv1.uwaterloo.ca (Kathy Hare - DCS)
Subject: Re: Alum and Carageenan
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 18:30:57 GMT

In article <1992Sep4.172707.2885@cbfsb.cb.att.com>, kjs@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (kelly.smith) writes:
> In article <97LR02ly1f2m01@JUTS.ccc.amdahl.com>, myk30@diag.amdahl.com (Manveen Kalyanpur) writes:
> > I recently wanted to try out marbling but I was unable to get
> > two of the main materials used for marbling - namely
> > alum and carageenan (or methyl cellulose). Does anyone
> > from the south bay area know where I could get these
> > materials from. I have tried out all the art stores in the area.
> 
> 	Hi.  I saw your post and must say I experienced the same
> 	thing.  Not to mention the fact the stores carry SOME of
> 	the things needed but not all.  Any way, I find mail order
> 	to be the best way to purchase chemicals like Alum, Carrageenan,
> 	Urea, Acetic acid and such.
> 
> 	I recommend Pro Chemical & Dye Inc.  Their telephone no. is
> 	(508) 676-3838 and fax no. is (508) 676-3980.  They're located
> 	in Somerset, Mass. 02726.  I've been very sucessful in using
> 	their Methocel instead of Carrageenan because it only takes
> 	a half hour to prepare as opposed to overnight carageenan.
> 	Also they deliver withing three days (to me any way but I
> 	also live on the east coast).  The only complaint I have
> 	is the catalog is a bit difficult to figure out, but the
> 	staff is very patient.
> 
> 	I also tried Dharma Trading Co. in San Rafael, California.
> 	Their phone no. is 1-800-542-5227 and the address is 
> 	P.O. Box 150916. San Rafael, Calif. 94915.  I wasn't too
> 	thrilled with the three week wait for my stuff, but they
> 	have clothes and shoes, and scarfs (or is that scarves)
> 	and such.  Whereas, Pro Chem. only carries the dying materials.
> 	
> 	Hope this helps and have fun.  Even though it real messy,
> 	the compliments are definitely worth it.
> > 
> > Thanks in advance.              
> 
> 	No problem.
> 
> > -Manveen
> 
> 	Kelly Jean

You can find alum in the grocery store in the spice rack. It is used for 
pickling.
From: Ann.Feeney@bbs.oit.unc.edu (Ann Feeney)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
Subject: Re: Bead Stringing Information Request
Date: 28 Aug 92 16:01:12 GMT
Organization: Extended Bulletin Board Service

In article <1992Aug28.141904.17069@dartvax.dartmouth.edu> Deborah.R.Kozlowski@dartmouth.edu (Deborah R. Kozlowski) writes:
>
>  I like to wear bead necklaces, but often find that they are not the
>precise length I prefer. Also, I have a few that need restringing.
>Could anyone please give me information on where to get supplies and
>books about how to do this ? Are there catalogs available for this kind
>of thing ?
>
> Deb Kozlowski

Let's see.
Ruth Poris wrote two reasonably good books on bead stringing, both
of which are still in print.  For supplies, depends on
how intense you want to go.
Silk thread is the best, but it frays, and things strung on it need to
be restrung every year or two.  The best prices I could get for
this are at Myron Toback, in New York.  $5.75 for a 2/3 ounce spool.
Otherwise, most craft stores have synthetic threads, at much
cheaper prices.
You might also want beading snips, to cut threds right after the knots.
Me, I find that toenail (straight across, not curved, like fingernail)
clips do just fine.
An awl can be nice, for drawing the knot right next to the thread.
I just use a fairly thick needle stuck in a pencil eraser.

For the other supplies, clasps, tweezers, thread, etc., you should be able
to get that at a good craft store, or (if you live in an area with one)
a specialty bead store.  Failing that, Hardie's, in Arizona,
(in toll free directory, I believe) has a reasonable selection.  
Less extensive in tools, but with nice beads, is Beads Galor, also, I 
believe, in Arizona.  
However, my person favorite, for _good_ service and fun catalogs,
is South Pacific Trading Company, in Vermont.  They're honest about
their goods (some of the stuff they sell is cheapish, but they say so
straight out), their return policy is generous (they pay return 
postage), and they know what they're doing.

Good luck!

--
   The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the University of
     North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Campus Office for Information
        Technology, or the Experimental Bulletin Board Service.
           internet:  bbs.oit.unc.edu or 152.2.22.80
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
From: cordova@univrs.rdd.lmsc.lockheed.com (Cordova)
Subject: Re: Alum and Carageenan
Followup-To: rec.crafts.misc
Organization: Lockheed Missles & Space Co.
Distribution: ba
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 92 17:59:32 GMT

> Does anyone from the south bay area know where I could get these
> materials from. I have tried out all the art stores in the area.
              
  Manveen,

  I found alum in the spice spection of the grocery store.
  I don't know about the carageenan, have never looked for it.

  Sherry
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
From: isr@rodan.acs.syr.edu (Michael S. Schechter - ISR group account)
Subject: Re: Melting Metal
Organization: Institute for Sensory Research
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 92 17:54:20 EDT

In article <230@talgras.UUCP> david@talgras.UUCP (David Hoopes) writes:
>
>This would probably work for brass, but not for iron.  Most people don't
>realize that metal will burn.  At a high enough temperature metal will
>will combust and burn just like wood.  The fun thing about iron is that
>the tempurature that iron burns is lower then the melting temp.  That 
>means that you can only melt iron in a oxygen free invironment.  It 
>takes a much more complex setup then most home shops can handle.

I have no problems melting steel (ie, iron) with my torch..
true, there is some combustion at the surface unless the flame is
slightly carburizing or neutral, but even with burning occuring, burning steel
gives off more heat than it takes to liquefy the surronding metal.
(That's why a cutting torch works..) That's where SLAG comes from,
and why you have to clean it off before pouring, or bottom pour.
In any case, the effect should be helpful, asuming you have a
crucible sitting on coals.. the heat will come thru the crucible
and when you see the top starting to spark.. you know the furthest
part from the heat source has reached orange heat (burning point) and
it would be a good bet that the bottom's liquid.. 

And if you have balance the air flow thru your charcoal or whatever
carefully, it should be possible to have only N/C02 left by the time
it reaches your metal..

--
Mike_Schechter@isr.syr.edu | XLII,B,+3dB,Non-Nak | Make Tapes, Not War
From: djg@genrad.com (Deborah J. Graham)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
Subject: Re: Hand-Made Quilts
Date: 3 Sep 92 13:12:04 GMT
Organization: GenRad, Inc.

In article <27486@life.ai.mit.edu> sam@ai.mit.edu (Sandra Marino) writes:
>
>   Can anyone tell me where I can find hand-made
>   quilts around the Boston area?  How much would
>   I expect to pay for dbl bed size?  I need one
>   for a gift and appreciate any help finding one.

An ex-GenRad employee makes quilts. Her name:
                                    Wendy Boston
                                    Littleton, MA 01460
                                    (508)486-3047
Prices (plus material, call her for details):
  crib       $75
  twin       150
  double     225
  queen      300
  king       375

I know nothing more. Call Wendy. You can tell her I sent you.

deb
(djg@genrad.com)
From: twl10@ccc.amdahl.com (Tom Littauer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
Subject: Re: milk based paint
Date: 3 Sep 92 18:18:30 GMT
Reply-To: twl10@JUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Tom Littauer)
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

In article <1992Sep01.155918.4676@bas-a.bcc.ac.uk> Alan Deacon writes:
>Has anyone got a recipe for milk based paints? I know they are usually
>made from casein and lime, but am unsure as to quantities and procedures.
>I have the following:
>
>	equal parts buttermilk or skim milk, lime and pigment, straining
>	to get rid of any lumps

The December 1991 issue of Fine Woodworking has an article on page 62
about milk based paints. (Taunton Press, Newtown Connecticut 06470 USA;
+1 203 426 8171).

One recipe calls for:

4 pounds skim (nonfat) milk
8 ounces linseed oil
8 ounces slaked lime
3 pounds Spanish White (or whiting or calcium carbonate)

Mix the lime and the milk, gradually mix in the oil. Carefully strew in the
Spanish white on the top of the liquid... as it is impregnated with liquid
it sinks and may be stirred in. repeat.

10% to 30% of the Spanish White may be replaced by alkalai-resistant pigment.
Listed as workable choices: Red and Black Iron Oxide, Yellow Iron Hydroxide,
Lampblack, and "earth" colors like siennas, umbers, etc.

Good luck,
Tom

PS: You can buy milk based paint ready to use. Need a source?
-- 
Tom Littauer at Amdahl M/S 278, PO Box 3470, Sunnyvale CA 94088-3470 USA
+1 408 737 5056     twl10@juts.ccc.amdahl.com     twl10@amail.amdahl.com
I'll tell you when I'm speaking as Amdahl's Spokesman - usually I'm not.
V'z n fgrnygu-grpuabybtl rapelcgrq .fvtangher ivehf - TBGPUN!!!
From: sam@ai.mit.edu (Sandra Marino)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
Subject: Hand-Made Quilts
Date: 2 Sep 92 20:56:58 GMT
Organization: MIT Artificial Intelligence Laboratory


   Can anyone tell me where I can find hand-made
   quilts around the Boston area?  How much would
   I expect to pay for dbl bed size?  I need one
   for a gift and appreciate any help finding one.


   Thanks,
   Sandy
From: Alan Deacon
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
Subject: milk based paint
Date: 1 Sep 92 15:59:18 GMT
Organization: Bloomsbury Computing Consortium

Has anyone got a recipe for milk based paints? I know they are usually
made from casein and lime, but am unsure as to quantities and procedures.
I have the following:

	equal parts buttermilk or skim milk, lime and pigment, straining
	to get rid of any lumps

The only problem is the lime. I assume this is slaked-lime. I plan to
get some aged lime-putty (UK stockists?) to save having to slake my
own, then dilute it to creamlike thickness. Then measure as above recipe.

Anyone have any more info on these types of paint? One book I have suggests
using ammonia rather than lime as it gives more consistent results (this
is a book for artists) since I only intend to paint external woodwork I
think I'll stick to lime.

--
	Alan Deacon
	Central Computing Service		Email: a.deacon@ucl.ac.uk
	University College London		Tel: +44 71-380 7359
	Gower Street, London WC1E 6BT		Fax: +44 71-388 5406
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
From: fran@Cadence.COM (Fran Peterson)
Subject: Re: Bingo Bag Marker Holder
Organization: Cadence Design Systems, Inc.
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 17:28:10 GMT

In article <34588@cbmvax.commodore.com> ej@cbmvax.UUCP (Emma Jean Mungin - CATS) writes:
>I posted this in alt.sewing so I thought I would post in in rec.crafts.
>I am looking for a pattern for a Bingo Bag that has pockets around the
>whole bag that holds markers.  I saw the bag in VA but I would like to
>know if there is a pattern for it.  If you have any info, please let
>me know.
>--

Would you pass the info on to me if it doesn't get posted to the net?
It would make a great Christmas give for my daughter.

TX

Fran Peterson
fran@cadence.com

F [:)
From: Deborah.R.Kozlowski@dartmouth.edu (Deborah R. Kozlowski)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
Subject: Bead Stringing Information Request
Date: 28 Aug 92 14:19:04 GMT
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH


  I like to wear bead necklaces, but often find that they are not the
precise length I prefer. Also, I have a few that need restringing.
Could anyone please give me information on where to get supplies and
books about how to do this ? Are there catalogs available for this kind
of thing ?

 Deb Kozlowski
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
From: Dale@sol.cs.wmich.edu (Dale Gee)
Subject: Re: Kilns and firebricks.
Organization: Western Michigan Univ. Comp. Sci. Dept.
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 03:52:05 GMT

In article <jfsenior.714856763@unix1.tcd.ie> jfsenior@unix1.tcd.ie (John Senior) writes:
>I am hoping to build a kiln for salt-firing.. A major obstacle that
>I have come up against is the price of firebricks.  I need ~500
>bricks and they cost ~1.50 each - which is too much.  I am hoping
>to get some of the bricks free from an old furnace or something
>similar, but I will still need some in all probability.  It occurred
>to me that I could maybe make & fire some bricks myself.  So, the
>question - does anyone know anything about making firebricks?
>Where could I find recipes etc.?  Also if anyone knows of any
>interesting (working) designs for kilns I'd love to hear from you.
>
>Yours,
>
>John.
>--
>Jfsenior@vax1.tcd.ie in case you were wondering.

Yes, it's called refractory cement. Go back to your fire brick place and ask
for it.  Another idea is to use KO-Wool (phonetic spelling) It's a cermanic
material that comes in a blanket.  We use it in our forge.  I love it.
It's light weight, easy to install. Only draw back it makes you itch, so
wear gloves when handling it.  

Dale


Village Blacksmith
From: Alan Deacon
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
Subject: Brass/bronze melting at home?
Date: 27 Aug 92 12:38:07 GMT
Organization: Bloomsbury Computing Consortium

Having successfully made a few things out of lead and pewter I thought I'd
go up the temperature scale a bit. Is it possible to do small scale 
melting of things like brass or bronze at home, or should I try and find
a `crafty' foundry in my area? I bought a hand held butane/propane torch
which claims to be able to reach pretty high temperatures (1700c), is this
suitable or is this work out of its league? The kind of items I want to
produce are only a couple of inches across, so I'm not talking major
league stuff here. I guess I'll need a small crucible, and a small fire
box to reflect the heat - does this sound possible (safe?). I know there's
been some talk on propane forges, but I want to keep things pretty small
scale as this is only one craft among many.

All suggestions (even `you're mad') welcome. please mail as I don't tune
in too often to this board.

--
	Alan Deacon
	Central Computing Service		Email: a.deacon@ucl.ac.uk
	University College London		Tel: +44 71-380 7359
	Gower Street, London WC1E 6BT		Fax: +44 71-388 5406
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc