HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: sdb@redbeard.physics.fsu.edu (Scott D. Berry)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: watering with drips
Keywords: drip irrigation
Date: 2 Apr 92 16:11:17 GMT
Article-I.D.: mailer.1992Apr2.111117.21345
Organization: none

In article <1992Apr1.235029.1267@gtephx.UUCP> machanicm@gtephx.UUCP (Mindy Machanic) writes:
>
>  
>I can't find the previous reference, but there were some postings about drip
>irrigation, using leaky hoses and buried cans. The truly high-tech
>way to handle it is to have a drip irrigation system like the ones they are
>installing all over Phoenix. It solves the problem of measuring the amount
>of water going to each plant, and also means you don't have to remember when
>to turn on (and off!) the water.
>
	Much stuff deleted...
>
>--Mindy
>-- 
>Mindy Machanic            Voice: (602) 582-7374        AG Communication Systems
>Quality Engineering       Fax:   (602) 582-7111        P.O. Box 52179
>UUCP: ....!{ncar!noao!asuvax | att}!gtephx!machanicm   Phoenix, AZ 85072-2179
>Internet: gtephx!machanicm@asuvax.eas.asu.edu

I have installed a much simpler system in my front beds which cost all of
$25.  I used a simple kit available at my local hardware and it attaches to a
mechanical (plastic) timer which I set by hand, and turn on by hand.  (This
system services about 60 feet of four foot wide shrub/flower beds).  Since I
need to check the plants reasonably often in our 95 degree summers (four to five
months worth, the option of using a hand operated system is very beneficial.

Scott D. Berry    Assistant Professor of Physics    Florida State University
315 Keen Bldg, B-159, Tallahassee, FL 32306-3016    (904) 644-1218
INTERNET:   berry@redbeard.physics.fsu.edu    BITNET:   berry@fsu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: asente@adobe.com (A Usenet Pal)
Subject: Blight on my bearded iris
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1992 19:47:31 GMT

The flower gardens at my new house has been doing wonderfully...the previous
owners had planted hundreds of bulbs everywhere.  However, there's a problem
with the bearded iris.  They came up just fine, but a couple of days ago I
noticed that the leaves had all started to develop ugly brown spots.  Many of
the leaves are shriveling and dying.  This is in a bed that has dozens of
other kinds of plants, none of which are displaying any sign of problems.

Any suggestions?

      -paul asente
	   asente@adobe.com   ...decwrl!adobe!asente   moo-bear@cs.stanford.edu

I think you're partly the person you were born to be, partly the person
you were raised to be, and, increasingly with time, the person you
decide to be.					-Richard Poppen
From: koo@tcville.edsg.hac.com (Frances Koo)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Spider Mites
Date: 13 Apr 92 23:59:43 GMT
Reply-To: koo@tcville.UUCP (Frances Koo)
Organization: Hughes Aircraft Co., El Segundo, CA

In article <1992Apr10.191936.10356@tc.fluke.COM> jocko@tc.fluke.COM (Julie Pound) writes:
>
>    I have also started my garden indoors and early this year.
>Cherry tomatoes, spinach, lettuce, beans etc...  Unfortunately,
>I recently got hit rather hard by spider mites.  I used an Ortho
>product that starts with a "D" that supposedly controls them. Ha!
>Since they're under the leaves, and hard to "thoroughly" cover,
>

How about adding a little soap?  It's supposed to act as a
spreader-sticker, so you can cover the plant a little better.  

Someone also told me to add a little vinegar along with the soap (I
guess this is supposed to retain the PH balance.)  I use the dishwashing
detergent Dawn ...  it's not an insecticidal soap, but I'll swear it works
on mealy bugs.  Anyway, the soap should help keep your insecticide on
your plant.

    Frances
From: sweiger@sequent.com (Mark Sweiger)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Four O'Clocks from stored roots
Date: 9 Apr 92 19:03:13 GMT
Article-I.D.: sequent.1992Apr9.190313.3873
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems Inc.

In article <1992Apr9.150640.29162@athena.mit.edu> derienzo@mit.edu (Elizabeth A. DeRienzo) writes:
>Two years ago I grew Four O'Clocks from seed.  They did very well up 
>against the fence surrounding my vegetable garden.  In the fall, while 
>putting the garden to bed, I noticed that the Four O'Clocks had developed 
>large, fleshy roots (about 2-3 times the size of a carrot).   I checked 
>several of my gardening books, but nowhere did I see even a vague mention 
>of storing the roots over the winter.  I left a few in the ground and 
>mulched heavily,  the rest I stored over the winter in perlite along with 
>my dahlias and glads.  
>
>When I pulled them out of storage the next spring, they looked great so I 
>planted them.  I also planted Four O'Clocks from seed.  The results:  The 
>roots I stored in perlite grew very fast and flowered several weeks sooner 
>than those from seed.  They also got a lot larger, producing a large 
>"bush" of flowers that went from early summer up until the first hard 
>frost.  The roots that I left in the round, by the way, never grew again.
>
>I put the roots into storage again last fall (now 1/2 are one year old and 
>1/2 are 2 years old) and I'm eager to plant them and have Four O'Clock 
>trees this summer.
>
>Has anyone heard of this treatment of Four O'Clocks before?  My sister is 
>a professional horticulturalist and said that she hadn't heard of anyone 
>else doing this, but thought it was a good idea.

Four O'Clocks can be propagated from stored roots pretty much indefinitely.
Also, if you plant them right against a warm basement wall, the roots
will survive the winter (Illinois) and you can then treat them as
perennials.  Root grown Four O'Clocks get larger than seed grown, as
you have noticed.


-- 
phone: (503)578-4329    fax: (503)578-5730   internet: sweiger@sequent.com
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Lime tree
From: peterson@ucunix.san.uc.edu (John M. Peterson)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 92 14:26:06 GMT
Organization: University of Cincinnati

>
>We have a dwarf Bearss Lime Tree. The problem is that as soon as the
>flowers mature into tiny limes, most of them fall off the tree. Last
>year from a profusion of flowers, we got only one lime! Is there
>something obviously wrong (like too little water or lack of a
>particular nutrient)? Please help. I read this newsgroup infrequently
>- so please e-mail to sdg@wag.caltech.edu. Thanks a lot.

NO SEX,  infertial fruit will not set and mature.  Even though Bearss
is "seedless" it must be pollinated in order to set.  I assume your
tree is inside so:

Act like a bee with a small soft paint brush, or
Set it outside and let the pro's (bees) do it.


+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
|  peterson@headcheese.daa.uc.edu      	 In real life: John M. Peterson  |
|                                                                        |
|  College of Design Architecture Art & Planning                         |
|  University of Cincinnati           45221-0016           513-556-1207  |
+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
From: aphrk@Msu.oscs.montana.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Rare Plant Seed Sources
Date: 9 Apr 92 19:32:24 GMT
Reply-To: aphrk@Msu.oscs.montana.edu
Organization: Montana State University

For those of you interested in unusual or rare seeds here are some sources
This is from an article by Steven Foster in The Business of Herbs (Sept/Oct
1991, Vol. IX-No.4)  This is a news and resource magazine for herb 
businesses.  Subscriptions are $20/yr.  Write Northwind Farm Pub., RR 2
Box 246, Shevlin, MN 56676-9535.

Foster suggests Hortus Third to look up the latin name.  Then go to
The Andersen Horticultural Library's "Source List of Plants and Seeds".
This book is avaliable for $29.95 from the Andersen Hort. Library, 
Minnesota Landscape Arboretum, 3675 Arboretum Drive, Box 39, Chanhassen,
MN 55317.  This book is a listing of over 1,000 nursery and seed catalogs.
It lists the plants by latin name.  A third revision of this book is due
out this spring.

Another course of action is to see if you can obtain live seeds or plants
from specialty collectors or seed exchange programs.  A major information
source of these folks is the "Bernard E. Harkness Seedlist Handbook" which
is compiled and updated by Mabel G. Harkness and Deborah D'Angelo (Timber
Press, 1986).  You can get this book from Jean Stevens, American Rock Garden
Society Bookstore, Rte. 6, Woodland Drive, Eau Claire, WI 54701 ($23.00 plus
$3.00 shipping).

If all else fails (says Foster) you may want to turn to the government.  The 
Agricultural Research Service (ARS) of the USDA maintains the National Plant
Germplasm System, which preserves hundreds of thousands of seeds at a wide
range of sites throughout the U.S.  These sites are listed in an article in
"The Herb, Spice and Medicinal Plant Digest" Vol. 7 No.2/Summer 1989 issue.

Subscription to this little newsletter:
   Dr. L.E. Craker
   Department of Plant & Soil Sciences
   Stockbridge Hall
   University of Massachusetts
   Amherst, MA 01003              $10/yr and back issues are $3 I think

Anyway, one such Germplasm Site is: North Central Regional Plant Introduction
Station, Iowa State University, Ames, IA 50011

Foster says that a new article on Chinese medicinal plants in the National
Plant Germplasm System will be published by "The Herb, Spice and Medicinal
Plant Digest" this spring.  I think it will be the upcoming issue Vol. 9 #4.

You should be able to find unusual plants by using these resources and 
writing a few letters.  Good luck!

Robyn Klein
Herbalist
From: Bob.Batson@p3.f322.n280.z1.fidonet.org (Bob Batson)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Wanted: Rosarians' Opinions on Waxed Canes
Date: 11 Apr 92 00:29:05 GMT


             Wanted: Rosarions' Opinions on Waxed Canes

  Some rose nurseries are now waxing the canes of bare-root plants to
help prevent drying-out during marketing. According to Myrna
Jorgensen of Country Heritage Roses (Rt. 2, Box 1401, Scurry, TX
75158), rosarians have expressed "mixed reactions" to waxing. Ms.
Jorgensen is seeking information from anyone who has had experience
with waxed-cane roses to determine whether there are problems with
the technique. Please contact her directly with your opinions,
whether favorable or unfavorable.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Reprinted with permission from the March 1992 HortIdeas. Copyright
1992 by Greg and Pat Williams. HortIdeas is $15 (2nd class mail) for
one year (12 issues). For more information or a subscription, write:
HortIdeas, 460 Black Lick Road, Gravel Switch, KY 40328, USA. 


*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*

Bob Batson
bob.batson@p3.f322.n280.z1.fidonet.org
kcufgat!augkc!bob.batson



 * Origin: From the north forty in Kansas, USA! (1:280/322.3)
From: tony@scotty.dccs.upenn.edu (Anthony Olejnik)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Request for Help: Lawn with house I just bought
Date: 14 Apr 92 11:50:59 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Pennsylvania



I`m a new homeowner with a lawn that needs work.
The lawns around the surrounding homes are nice, green, weedless, etc.

What can/should I do (at this (late?) point of the season) to help my
lawn so that it will look good this summer?

I hear a lot of terms (lime, pete moss, fertilizer, (many different types
of) lawn seed, accidity (pH), etc.).

Since there are a number of bare spots in the lawn (ie. no grass) and 
the type of soil (clay: I`m assuming this from the color and feel of the
soil), I`m sure that there`s some tricks that I must do to make my new
lawn healty again.

So, what can I do to:
	-get rid of the fungi (mushrooms and assorted stuff)
	-get new lawn to grow in clay
	-get new lawn to grow in previously bare spots
	-improve my lawn`s fertility

Any help would be *GREATLY* appreciated.

Thanks in Advance.

--tony


Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: bobw@csg.uwaterloo.ca (Bob Wildfong)
Subject: Re: garlic help
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 23:14:55 GMT

In article <1992Apr3.145852.21293@hemlock.cray.com> dadams@cherry.cray.com (David Adams) writes:
>
>Recently at the garden supply store I picked up some garlic bulbs.
>Do I need to
>wait until all danger of frost is past?

>Can I plant garlic from the grocery store?  It cost a lot less.

Most garlics can take frost, but not all can handle a deep freeze.
Rocambole is the hardiest that I know of.
The only kind of garlic that they sell in grocery chains around here is
Silverskin - not so hardy, but it should be fine now that we're out of the
freezer.

>I noticed Elephant garlic in several catalogs.

According to my notes, Elephant garlic (Allium ampeloprasum) is more a type
of giant leek than a garlic.  It IS a lot cheaper to buy it from the store than
from the seed companies.  Maybe the seed companies have a higher handling cost
because they move smaller quantities than commercial food growers.  It should
grow just fine from the grocery store - I often look for the cloves at the 
bottom which already have tiny sprouts.

The only other difference I can think of is that the seed companies might treat
their allium bulbs for fungus/disease.  Unless you're growing large quantities
for profit, I wouldn't hesitate to use the grocery store bulbs.

Bob Wildfong
From: aphrk@Msu.oscs.montana.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Herb Seed Catalog
Date: 9 Apr 92 19:13:46 GMT
Reply-To: aphrk@Msu.oscs.montana.edu
Organization: Montana State University

For those interested in rare and medicinal herb seeds and/or plants,
write for a catalog to:

Richters
Canada's Herb Specialists
Goodwood, Ontario
Canada  L0C 1A0

Phone: (416) 640-6677
FAX: (416) 640-6641

Remember it's 40 cents for Canadian postage
From: moody@e4.ius.cs.cmu.edu (James Moody)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Bean plants per person?
Date: 13 Apr 92 11:07:14 GMT
Reply-To: moody@cs.cmu.edu
Organization: CMU Vision and Autonomous Systems Center

I want to plant bush beans in my garden this year and I'd like to spread
the harvest out over the season.  The seed packet suggests successive
plantings for a continuous yield, my question is how many seeds should
I plant at a time?  For example, is 5 plants per person every 10 days a
good number?  I'm not using any exotic seed, and this year my soil is 
great so I expect good germination and production rates.

In my last garden (two years ago) I tried two plantings.  In spite of poor
soil and weak plants we had two huge harvest peaks, more than we could eat, 
but nothing was wasted since alot of those got pickled.

This year I have less area to work with so I'd like to make the most of it.
Any help is appreciated.

-- 
James E. Moody Jr.	The Robotics Institute		(412) 268-2847
			Carnegie Mellon (University)	      CMU-BUGS
			Schenley Park
moody@cs.cmu.edu	Pittsburgh, PA 15213
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: bbeer@milton.u.washington.edu (Robert Beer)
Subject: Re: WISH LIST
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1992 01:47:28 GMT

>Chris of Ecology Center Fund seeks:
>-Tropolaeum tuberosum.  
> (Chris notes: "And incidentally, i have lots of seed for Chenopodium
> ambrosioides [epazote].")
>
I am growing it in my garden, and have a pretty good source of tubers (a friend has hundreds...).  Send me an e-mail and I'll see what I can do.

(I don't see an e-mail address for you)

Bob
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Nematodes
Date: 9 Apr 92 17:52:14 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

schmidt@cathedral.cerc.wvu.wvnet.edu (Evan Schmidt) writes:

> I have a friend who claims that nematodes prevent cutworms 
from invading your garden.  I have another friend that claims 
that nematodes attack tomato plants with ill effects for the 
tomatoes.  What is the low down on nematodes?  If they are good, 
where can I find some?  Thanks.

Um, this is alot like saying that plants are poisonous and plants 
are good to eat.  Depends on what species you're talking about.


Nematodes are tiny little worms that are part of the soil ecosystem.
They're there (unless you sterilized your soil somehow).  Most of them
have no effect one way or another on plants; a few are harmful.  
Root-knot nematode is one of the bad guys, but there are others.

Unless you've got definite nematode problems, you really
> Evan Schmidt
> Beginning Gas of the "wrong" kinds.

As to beneficial nematodes, caterpillar nematode, Neoaplectana
carpocapsae carries a symbiotic bacterium (Xenorhabdus nematophilus)
that does a nice job on contralling ants, beetles, buds, flies, wasps,
and quite a few others.

You might want to contact Nematode Farm, Inc., 2617 San Pablo Ave,
Berkeley, CA 94702.  This is a 1990 address.

Kay Klier  Biology Dept  UNI

Kay Klier  Biology Dept  UNI
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: rfrench@Xenon.Stanford.EDU (Robert S. French)
Subject: Hydroponics (Bay Area)
Organization: Computer Science Department, Stanford University.
Distribution: ba
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1992 20:59:21 GMT

My apartment came with a 3x7ft gravel-filled automated outdoor
hydroponics garden.  It hadn't been used in many years, and I just got
it cleaned out and working again.  I'd like to start growing some
vegetables soon.  Does anyone in the area work with hydroponics who
would be willing to talk to me, make suggestions, etc?  I'm especially
interested in any local sources for nutrient supplies, information
about the composition of Palo Alto tap water, etc.

		Thanks,
		   Rob
From: "wayne kelso" <wayne.kelso@canrem.com>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: calamondins
Date: 14 Apr 92 01:43:23 EST
Reply-To: "wayne kelso" <wayne.kelso@canrem.com>
Distribution: rec
Organization: Canada Remote Systems

Just curious to know if anyone in the warmer parts are growing Calamondins 
outdoors all year round. I'm writing from Toronto, and can only put mine 
outside during July and August. I've had mine for eight years,{it was a 
small bush with small fruit when I got it}, and it is now about five feet 
high with the fruit being 2" in diameter. 
  Just wondering how big they can get under tropical conditions.
 

Wayne.Kelso@canrem.com 

---
 * Freddie 1.1 * Sticks and Stones may break my bones, so quit it.
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario/Detroit, MI
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
From: cookliwj@cnsvax.uwec.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: fish water
Date: 16 Apr 92 03:03:29 GMT
Organization: University of Wisconsin Eau Claire

fIn article <1992Apr15.012708.15732@athena.cs.uga.edu>, maxfield@athena.cs.uga.edu (Joan C. Maxfield) writes:
> 
> 	I have 2 fish tanks and ahve to regularly change a portion of
> the water.  I was wondering if I could use this water to feed my
> plants.  I have no problem watering the philodenron or the cacti with
> it but what about veggie plants, ie tomatos and beans etc.  Has anyone
> else tried this?  It seems such a waste to flush 10 gallons of water
> that might be good for fertilizer.  Any ideas?
> 
> Joan
> -- 
> J. C. Maxfield				maxfield@athena.cs.uga.edu
> DISCLAIMER:  I don't speak for the University, but they often speak for me!


 All it is is water and fish caca, maybe a little algae too. I've heard that it
is good fertilizer, not too strong. I'd use it.

bill cooklin
From: jk13+@andrew.cmu.edu (Joanne M. Karohl)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Ringers products
Date: 13 Apr 92 19:26:42 GMT
Organization: Doctoral student, Biology, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA

Does anyone have any experience with the Ringers line of organic
fertilizers and compost accelerators?  I would appreciate any comments. 
A specific question:  I plan to have a plot (a community garden plot
used by someone else last year) rototilled.  I was going to use a
Ringers product that contains organic matter ( and micro-organism
cultures.  Should this be applied before or after rototilling?   Thanks
for any advice. . . Joanne Karohl
From: machanicm@gtephx.UUCP (Mindy Machanic)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: flea beetles
Keywords: plant munching, shiny bugs
Date: 15 Apr 92 16:36:55 GMT
Organization: AG Communication Systems, Phoenix, Arizona

We have suddenly become infested with shiny dark beetles that are the basic shape
of lady bugs, but a little narrower (not so round) and a tad shorter, and they are 
just dark, not colored. At first we thought they may be baby lady bugs, because 
the lady bugs have come down from the mountains and are also in the garden. There 
are a lot of lady bugs, but there are a zillion of these little dark beetles. They 
seem to be mostly on the desert-adapted plants like the gaura and the Mexican 
primrose, and they are finding the Texas mountain laurel. They look like they are 
starting to munch down.

My husband looked them up in the Sunset Western Garden Book and he thinks they are
flea beetles. We have put out a crop of green lacewings so we don't want to do any-
thing that will hurt them or the ladybugs or the lizards. As an experiment, he said
he sprayed just the gaura (which was covered with them and is getting ready to
open about a dozen flower spikes) with a pyrethrin spray this morning before work. 
There were no lacewings visible on the gaura, so he thought it would be Ok to spray it.
(And then he called me to tell me so I could tell all of you and get advice.)

Last year, the primrose and the hibiscus (in particular) got munched down pretty
severely; we thought it was grasshoppers, but maybe it was these things. Does anybody
know if they are flea beetles, and what to do about them? I have only seen a few
grasshoppers so far this year (if they get worse, we're getting the grasshopper disease
spores/virus/whatever-they-are that is for sale in Gardens Alive! catalog), but there
sure are a lot of these shiny little creatures. They make big round chomps for such 
tiny buggies!

    
Mindy in Phoenix
-- 
*****************************************************************************************
Mindy Machanic  (AG Communication Systems/Quality Engineering, Phoenix, AZ)               
UUCP: ....!{ncar!noao!asuvax | att}!gtephx!machanicm      
Internet: gtephx!machanicm@asuvax.eas.asu.edu
From: bbeer@milton.u.washington.edu (Robert Beer)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Spider Mites
Date: 17 Apr 92 19:21:29 GMT
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle

In article <21231@hacgate.UUCP> koo@tcville.UUCP (Frances Koo) writes:
>In article <1992Apr10.191936.10356@tc.fluke.COM> jocko@tc.fluke.COM (Julie Pound) writes:
>>
>>    I have also started my garden indoors and early this year.
>>Cherry tomatoes, spinach, lettuce, beans etc...  Unfortunately,
>>I recently got hit rather hard by spider mites.  I used an Ortho
>>product that starts with a "D" that supposedly controls them. Ha!
>>Since they're under the leaves, and hard to "thoroughly" cover,

The absolute best thing I know for spider mites is a product called AVID.  One 
application eradicates all the mites in all stages.  Works every time.  It also
breaks down very quickly - after mixing with water you must use it within 
I think 24 hours.  Only one problem - it costs about 80 dollars for a bottle,
which will, however, last a *long* time, since the dilution is 1/4 tsp. per
gallon of water.  You might go in with a friend on a bottle.  Just don't divide
it up and say I told you to, since that is quite illegal!  

Bob
From: machanicm@gtephx.UUCP (Mindy Machanic)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: illegal plants--lobelia
Summary: lobelia???
Date: 7 Apr 92 16:20:27 GMT
Organization: AG Communication Systems, Phoenix, Arizona

In article <1992Apr6.145306.11700@hemlock.cray.com>, dadams@cherry.cray.com (David Adams) writes:
> 
> Recently we had a discussion about listing plants
> that were illegal.
> 
> Two days ago I heard that lobelia (Indian tobacco,
> pukeweed) was illegal, or at least that it could
> not be sold as an herb.  Does anyone know 
> anything more about it?  Do any catalogs


Is this the same lobelia that includes the blue "Crystal Palace"
plants that grow into bushy little mounds with bright intense blue
flowers that we have all over our yard?

-- 
--Mindy in Phoenix            
******************************************************************************************
Mindy Machanic
AG Communication Systems/Quality Engineering