HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: ehouse@Apple.COM (Eric House)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Subject: Re: bottom brackets...sealed or regular?
Date: 14 Sep 92 19:09:18 GMT
Organization: Apple Computer Inc., Cupertino, CA

In article <1992Sep11.152731.9286@odin.corp.sgi.com> marksteg@merv.detroit.sgi.com (Mark Stegbauer) writes:
>
>[   what are the advantages of sealed bottom brackets?
>
>They keep the grit out. How well??? Matter of opinion.
>
>[   can you put a sealed bb on a bike that originally had a regular one?
>
>Yes - Shimano now makes a cartridge bb. I have it on one of my DX bikes. It is quite sealed, comes with the spindle (of course), and I am told it cost ~$35. Naturally you need a special tool to install/replace it.
>And you can not repair it. There are aftermarket hubs with the same theory. They are totally sealed, very durable, last a long time, but they are "disposable".

There's no need to get "disposable" hubs or bottom brackets to get the
advantages of "sealed" cartridge bearings.  Phil Wood makes several models
of both that will last longer than just about anything you can buy for a
bike.  Sure, the cartridges may wear out, but then you just send the part
to him and he ships it back good as new.  I've never heard of his charging
for doing this.

Several other companies out there make hubs and BBs that work on the same
principle: you ride maintenance-free till the seals fail and the cartridge
dies.  They, for maybe $10 or $15, you replace the cartridges and you're off
again.  IMHO, it is the encapsulation of all the moving/wearing parts into
a single replacable unit, rather than seals that may or may not work, that
is the advantage of so-called "sealed" units.  I think these products are
great even though I don't give a rip about the seals.

As for the Shimano BB units, they are disposable in the true Shimano
tradition, so whether they make sense for you depends on the kind of mileage
you expect to put on your bike.  They cost about 1/3 what a Phil Wood unit
goes for, but the Phil model will last far more than 3x as long (maybe even
without needing new bearings if you trust the reports of some long-time
owners).  So I'd go for the Phil unless I expected to keep my bike on the
wall most of the time.

(Of course, I won't buy a Phil BB until he releases his field-servicable
model, which is now under development.)
-- 
****************************************************************************
Eric House			"My employer doesn't share its opinions with
			   	 me, so I can share only mine with you"
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
From: EPLUS17@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu (Richard Engelbrecht-Wiggans)
Subject: Re: bottom brackets...sealed or regular?
Organization: C.C.S.O.
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1992 02:25:12 GMT

In article <1992Sep11.152731.9286@odin.corp.sgi.com>
marksteg@merv.detroit.sgi.com (Mark Stegbauer) writes:
 
>[   Organization: Junior, English, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
>[   Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
>[   Message-ID: <keftCSi00UhWA5dqAc@andrew.cmu.edu>
>[   Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 14:27:42 -0400
>[   From: "Douglas S. Brashear" <db6j+@andrew.cmu.edu>
>[   Subject: bottom brackets...sealed or regular?
>
>[   I'm a bit fuzzy here on the whole bottom bracket thing...
>[   Please clarify my cluelessness....
>
>[   what are the advantages of sealed bottom brackets?
>
>They keep the grit out. How well??? Matter of opinion.
 
Some sealed units (eg Phil Wood) also allow more lateral adjustment than
do non-sealed units.  While this may not matter to you, it makes a world
of difference when trying to get all the chains aligned properly on my
bicycle built for three.
>
>[   can you put a sealed bb on a bike that originally had a regular one?
>
>Yes - Shimano now makes a cartridge bb. I have it on one of my DX bikes. It is quite sealed, comes with the spindle (of course), and I am told it
cost
>~$35. Naturally you need a special tool to install/replace it.
>And you can not repair it. There are aftermarket hubs with the same theory. They are totally sealed, very durable, last a long time, but they are
>"disposable".
>
Not necessarily.  On Phil Wood hibs, the sealed cartridge can be pulled out
of the fland assembly and replaced (without rebuilding the wheel.)
(I am loyal to Phil Wood equipment only because it was the only really durable
and low maintanance stuff available 20 years (and many thousands of miles) ago
when I was setting up or tandems...and it still hasn't failed (except one
rear hub cartridge that needs replacing now after about 30k of tandem use
with lots of weight on it.)
 
>[   Are they more/less expensive generally?
>
>[   I was thinking of this for my TREK antelope mountainbike since I believe
>[   one of my cups is scored on the inside...
>
>[   Thanks in advance...
>[   DOUG
>[   db6j+@andrew.cmu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
From: kjl@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com (K J Leiden)
Subject: MTB upgrade to SIS advice
Organization: Lockheed Missiles and Space Co.
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 92 18:55:15 GMT


Advice from MTB techies sought

I have an old 15 speed Specialized Rockhopper laying around
my garage that I only use when I have out-of-state guests visiting.
I bought it the year before SIS was available ('86 I think).
I am too embarrassed to let a friend ride it so I give them
my 'real' MTB and I get stuck with this piece of junk.

If I wanted to upgrade to SIS,  what is the minimum that I
have to do.  The bike will only get maybe 5 or so
days of use a year so I don't want to spend much at all.
I'd like to buy the needed components from a catalog and install
it myself.

Any advice at all would be appreciated !
Email preferred

Thanks,

-- 
Ken Leiden
Sunnyvale, CA
kjl@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com
From: marksteg@merv.detroit.sgi.com (Mark Stegbauer)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Subject: bottom brackets...sealed or regular?
Date: 11 Sep 92 15:27:31 GMT
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc.

[   Organization: Junior, English, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
[   Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
[   Message-ID: <keftCSi00UhWA5dqAc@andrew.cmu.edu>
[   Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 14:27:42 -0400 
[   From: "Douglas S. Brashear" <db6j+@andrew.cmu.edu>
[   Subject: bottom brackets...sealed or regular?

[   I'm a bit fuzzy here on the whole bottom bracket thing...
[   Please clarify my cluelessness....

[   what are the advantages of sealed bottom brackets?

They keep the grit out. How well??? Matter of opinion.

[   can you put a sealed bb on a bike that originally had a regular one?

Yes - Shimano now makes a cartridge bb. I have it on one of my DX bikes. It is quite sealed, comes with the spindle (of course), and I am told it cost ~$35. Naturally you need a special tool to install/replace it.
And you can not repair it. There are aftermarket hubs with the same theory. They are totally sealed, very durable, last a long time, but they are "disposable".

[   Are they more/less expensive generally?

[   I was thinking of this for my TREK antelope mountainbike since I believe
[   one of my cups is scored on the inside...

[   Thanks in advance...
[   DOUG
[   db6j+@andrew.cmu.edu
From: jtchew@csa3.lbl.gov (JOSEPH T CHEW)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Subject: Re: women working on bikes
Date: 10 Sep 92 17:21:01 GMT
Reply-To: jtchew@csa3.lbl.gov
Organization: Lawrence Berkeley Laboratory - Berkeley, CA, USA
NNTP-Posting-Host: 128.3.254.198
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.3-4

I agree that

>> I think I would ride faster if I had a girl mechanic!

is indeed demeaning to _women_ mechanics and otherwise politically 
incorrect, but responding with

> I'm heard of men who would rather play with girls than with women?
> Maybe you are into child molesting?

seems like a response far out of proportion to the offense.  

Besides which, even if you don't quantitatively believe the oft-bandied-
about  statistics on how many people have been victims of molestation, 
you can surely see that some number of Usenet users might find the 
response less than amusing even if they _do_ catch on to the sarcasm.

Let the hammer down slowly, mister, and put it back in the holster -- 
all the guy did was spit on the sidewalk.  :)

--Joe
"Just another personal opinion from the People's Republic of Berkeley"
From: khe@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Keith Erskine)
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 17:23:28 GMT
Subject: Re: Drop bars on an MTB
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles

re: drop bars for mtbs for touring

IMHO, Scott AT-4 bars are ideally suited for a dual purpose mtb
which will see both technical off road riding and road touring.

I strongly advise against drop bars on an mtb because your weight
is further forward and lower when you go to the drops to reach the
brakes.  This strongly increases the tendency to go over the bars.
If you use a shorter, taller stem to fix this, the position on
top of the bars is compromised.  You also must shift your hands to 
reach bar end shift levers.  With conventional mtb bars, the brakes
and shifters are all readily available from the hand position which
affords best control of the bike on technical terrain.  

I use drop bars on an mtb tandem and it is barely adequate for 
trail riding.  I only leave the drop bars on because most of the
time we ride the tandem on the road.  I've tried single mtbs with
drop bars and I hated it.

As to why Tomac switched to drop bars and then back, I read in a Tomac
interview it was because his coach from Motorola wanted him to keep the 
same position on both his road bike and mtb.  This is silly, IMHO.
I watched Tomac in the 1990 Worlds with drop bars, and he was so low and 
forward when in the drops he was on the edge of control on the descents.  
He was leading and he crashed on a descent which very well could have cost 
him the race.  BTW, Tomac was using road bike DuraAce STI brake lever 
shifters on this bike.  In 1991 Tomac used normal mtb bars and won the 
World Championships.

There is good reason why drop bars have all but disappeared from mtb
races - they simply do not work as well as flat mtb bars with bar ends.

Keith Erskine
From: deb1@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (DERRICK ERNEST BOUCHER)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Subject: NiCads in the Cateye Halogen Headlight?
Date: 9 Sep 92 12:02:15 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

Hello all,

        I'd like to increase the versatility and especially the thrift
of the Cateye HL500 Halogen Headlamp by using rechargeable NiCad "C"
cells in place of standard C cells.  As I alredy own two HL500's, this
would be a very inexpensive was to upgrade to a rechargeable system.

 If anyone has tried this combination, please let me know via E-mail
or posting.

                                                Thanks,
                                                        Derrick

[$0.02][$0.02][$0.02][$0.02][$0.02][$0.02][$0.02][$0.02][$0.02][$0.02][$0.02]
[$0.02]      __o     "The cheapest man on two wheels"                 [$0.02]
[$0.02]    _-\<,_                                                     [$0.02]
[$0.02]   (_)/ (_)     Derrick Boucher                                [$0.02]
[$0.02]                deb1@ns.cc.lehigh.edu                          [$0.02]
[$0.02]                                                               [$0.02]
[$0.02]    Sage Quote: "My pump got caught in my trouser leg"         [$0.02]
[$0.02]                 -Mr. Pither in the Monty Python's Flying      [$0.02]
[$0.02]                  Circus episode 'The Cycling Tour'            [$0.02]
[$0.02]                                                               [$0.02]
[$0.02][$0.02][$0.02][$0.02][$0.02][$0.02][$0.02][$0.02][$0.02][$0.02][$0.02]
From: chris@carnival.lbl.gov (Chris Moll)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Subject: Re: Hubs built for straight spokes
Date: 9 Sep 1992 20:52:51 GMT
Organization: Lawrence Berkeley Laboratory, California
NNTP-Posting-Host: carnival.lbl.gov
Keywords: n

Jobst Brandt writes:
>As it turns out, spokes these days should break about equally easily at
>either end and this they should do rarely.  

In theory perhaps, but this is not consistent with my own experience.
I've seen a couple of cases of the spoke breaking flush with the knob on the
end (after the elbow), one spoke that broke in the middle at the butting, and
had three or four broken nipples.
I've lost track of how many spokes I broke at the elbow.

>The reason I say this is that the DT spokes I have been
>riding for many years (I'll have to find out when I got then some day)
>have survived 4 sets of rims, and are on their fifth

Your experience is atypical.  Perhaps your wheels are better built than
mine and/or you replace the rim more often and/or use better hubs.
 
It may be that straight spokes are an attempt to solve a problem that is
better solved by replacing rims or some such.  The problem certainly exists
for me and most of the people I ride with.  It doesn't seem that straight
spokes are a good solution, since I only know two people who own Roval wheels
and both talk about them more than they ride them.

If you've found a better solution to broken elbows I'm all ears.
--
Chris Moll                       (510)486-7891
---
"Blessed are they who Go Around in Circles, for they Shall
be Known as Wheels."
From: ai065@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Thomas Hill)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Subject: NOTICE:"Bigfoot/Sasquatch" Sightings Request
Date: 14 Sep 1992 02:57:22 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc10.ins.cwru.edu


   Our research group is currently investigating reports and sightings of the
animal known as "Bigfoot" or "Sasquatch". If you or somebody you know has had
such a sighting, or come across what may be evidence supporting the existance
of such an animal, please get in contact with us in one of the following
formats:
 
o Leave a private message in electronic mail.
o Call Thomas Hill at 216-362-6529.
o Or write:
 
  Thomas E. Hill
  16124 Richard Dr.
  Brook Park, OH 44142
 
 Contact with us can be totally anonymous if you wish. We are especially
interested in Ohio sightings but are by no means limited to investigations in
that state. Please, serious responses only.
-- 
"A large creature about 7 1/2 to 8 foot tall. It was greyish black in color,
and as it went away from me I seen the backside of it walking as a man would
walk on it's hind legs."- Former Sheriff Oliver Potter, Vancouver, Washington
The Cryptozoology Information Network. Want on our Email mailing list? Amiga!
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
From: CMSC28@maccvm.corp.mot.com (Mark Hickey)
Subject: Re: 700c knobbies
Organization: Motorola
Date: 11 Sep 1992 08:28:12 CDT

------------------------- Original Article -------------------------

>What I have in mind is to have my rear canti posts repositioned on my
>1980 stumpjumper to accommodate  a 700c/27" rear wheel while retaining
>the 26" front with a 1.5 tire inflated to 50-60 psi for shock absorbtio
>qualities.  I would use this bike exclusively for commuting and errands

>I want to run a disk cover and drop bars with standard thumbies positioed
>to allow a semi comfy bar tops position.  But I plan on spending more tme
>on the hoods or drops.
>Any reccs. on who can do the torch work?
>D

The question is: "Why would you want to do this?"  There really aren't
any inherent advantages in a 27" vs 26" wheel (in fact, the hot setup
on the current hi-tech, hi-$ time trial bikes is to use 26" wheels).
If you're looking for low rolling resistance, check out some of the
high pressure baldies available for 26" wide rims, such as the
Tioga City Slickers (what I run on my commuter MTB) or Specialized
(I think) Fat Boys, which are even skinnier (1.3"?) and take 100PSI
(which I also run on occasion).  These will provide bulletproof
commuter tires (I run over lots of glass and haven't ever flatted
my City Slickers).

I have also had great success using a set of MT-4 Pro bars which
give more hand positions than drop bars and includes an aero-tuck
position that is comparable to tri-bars on racing bikes.

Mark (are those knobbies?) Hickey
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.marketplace
From: ronf@panther3.panther.mot.com (Ron Feigen)
Subject: Re: going clipless 
Organization: Motorola Panther Project, Chandler, AZ
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1992 20:12:29 GMT

I got last years Look Carbon racing pedal for $99.00 and last years vittoria
shoe for ~65.00 from Colorado Cyclist.  When you call ask for the stuff they
have on closeout.

In article <1992Sep7.011958.27284@lgc.com> commike@lgc.com (Alan Commike) writes:
>
>I went out this weekend looking for a set of clipless pedals and a pair of
>shoes (time to move up from sneakers and straps!). In the local shops a 
>decent pair of pedals seems to run about $145 (Look peddals, don't remember
>which ones). The shoes i felt most comfortable in were running about $125
>(pair of shimano's and a pair of avia's - nike's didn't fit too well). 
>
>After some quick addition  - this is pushing real close to $300. My whole 
>bike was  ~ $500 a few years ago!
>
>After a got home without my new toys, i took a look through some catalogs.
>Look pedals are going from $69 - $149 for the top of the line. Are the 
>mark-ups at local shops actually 40 - 50% !? I'd much rather support my
>local shop than buy through a 1-800 number. I'm willing to pay possibly
>$20 - $30 over mail-order to support my local shops, but what i've seen
>seems to be ridiculous. Is something like this common?
>
>
>On a related note...
>
>One of the catalogs has last years Look pedals in closeout. PP96 and PP76.
>Where do these fall compared to the current product line? Are they equiv.
>to the 196 and 176?? Any new improvements between the PP1x6's and the PPx6's?
>
>
>thanks much,
>
>	...alan
>
>
>-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Alan Commike                                     Landmark Graphics, Houston Tx.
>commike@lgc.com                                  (713) 579-4673 
>
>The ultimate error correcting compiler would generate a Database
>Management System out of ... nothing!
>	- Josef Moellers
>-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>


-- 

>
Ron Feigen
ronf@panther.mot.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.marketplace
Subject: For Sale: Cannondale Delta-V 1000 Frameset (suspension)
From: latenser@unlinfo.unl.edu (Latenser)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 16:01:53 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Nebraska - Lincoln


For Sale:   FRAMESET ONLY!

		New (NOT-USED) Cannondale Delta V 1000 Mountain Bike Frameset.

		This is the fully suspended 1992 model (front shock in the
		steerer tube, rear strut shock) and includes the headset and
		stem.  Frame has never been built up.

		Frame Size = 21"

		Cost me approx $700  (List is $999)

Here is the story:  
	I purchased this frame two weeks ago on Cannondales 1992 model year 
	end frame sale / trade-in.   For those who do not know -- every year
	in August Cannondale sells off the current years excess frames (also
	offering a frame trade in program).  The program is limited to what
	they have in the factory for that model year. According to my local
	dealer this is the last Delta-V frame available from the factory for
	the '92 model year.

	I ordered (and paid for) the frame because it was the only way that
	I could test the fit. The local dealer does not see any reason to
	order a frame that large -- he started off by attempting to sell me
	the one frame size he does stock --- 17" (I am 6' 8").  His method
	is to fit the rider onto his stock frame -- not the other way
	around.  And he is one of Cannondales larger dealers!

	Even though I have not yet received the frame from Cannondale I now
	realize that the frame is not going to fit me.  It seems that the
	actual seat tube length on a Delta-V 21" frame is 17.5".  They label
	it a 21" because of the extended top tube length of 24.24".

	So I can either get about 85% of my money back or sell the frame.
	There is no question that this is an excellent deal.  The 1993
	Delta-V frame is virtually unchanged from the 1992 model and the
	price seems to be increasing.  Cannondale also just announced a 24
	hour fork replacement policy in case you manage to blow the seals on
	your fork. This is one on the highest rated suspension frames around
	---- just compare this deal to spending $300 for a Rock-Shox front
	fork  --- and here you get both front and rear suspension.

	By the way -- the offer is off if I find a very strong seat post 
	longer than 425mm.   :-)

	latenser@unlinfo.unl.edu    (Dan Latenser)
Newsgroups: su.market,rec.bicycles.marketplace,su.cycling.org
From: shannons@leland.Stanford.EDU (Shannon Bishop Snyder)
Subject: For Sale: 22" Mountain Bike Frame
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Distribution: ba
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 92 04:19:26 GMT

22" Specialized Stumpjumper Comp Frame
- 1989
- white
- low mileage
- $200

Do not respond to this account.
Call Brett Snyder at 497-0313


Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.marketplace
From: bdombrow@midway.ecn.uoknor.edu (Brent Dombrowski)
Subject: Headlight Advice Sought
Summary: I am looking for a good headlight.
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 20:49:52 GMT
Organization: Engineering Computer Network, University of Oklahoma, Norman, OK, USA
Keywords: headlight

	I am in the market for a headlight for my MTB.  Can anyone out there
give me any recomendations?  I would like to know what to look for in them and
some reputable brands.  Any info will be appreciated.

Brent Dombrowski
(bdombrow@mailhost.ecn.uoknor.edu)
--
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.marketplace
From: pardo@cs.washington.edu (David Keppel)
Subject: Re: Taya "No Chain Tool Required" Chain
Organization: Computer Science & Engineering, U. of Washington, Seattle
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 92 20:16:46 GMT

>James Trammell (trammell@engin.umich.edu) asks:
>>[I've seen ads for a ``Taya'' chain, with flush pins & a master link.]

lisap@olomana.soest.hawaii.edu (Lisa Petersen) writes:
>[The instructions say don't re-use the master link.
> It has only one spare.]

I've seen adverts for this chain, and they brag about how you don't
need a special pin the way you do with Shi*mano chains.  And then they
sell you a chain where you can only take it apart at the master link
and aren't supposed to re-use the master link?  That's both crappy
advertising and crappy product.  What a lousy way to treat people who
buy your chain.

	;-D on  ( Taya "chain fool required" chain )  Pardo