HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jeffz@cray.com (Jeff Zais)
Subject: Reassembling and Finishing Chair
Followup-To: rec.woodworking
Organization: Cray Research, Inc
Date: 8 Sep 92 08:32:39 CDT

I'm currently working on an old chair which needed to be re-glued 
and to be refinished.  So far I've disassembled the chair into 
19 pieces and removed the old finish with Formby's.  I'm about
to begin glueing the chair back together.  Some of the dowels
clearly will be replaced, but during the disassembly most came 
apart intact.  What is the best thing to do with these dowels?
Should I just put some glue on and clamp things up?  If so, should 
I put something else into the hole so that there will be an extra 
snug fit? Should I rough up the surfaces a bit?  Should I go through 
the bother of removing all of these dowels, even though one end 
of them is quite solid?  

On the question of finishing, I've gotten some advice about mixing
Watco oil and polyurethane as a final finish coat.  Any good 
references out there on general refinishing, and this in particular?
Something that could answer questions like "what is the difference
between polyurethane and varnish as a finish?" would be good.  

Post here or direct e-mail.  Thanks for the help.



                                      Jeff Zais
                                      jeffz@cray.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: M21605@mwvm.mitre.org
Subject: Re: Panel Planes
Organization: The MITRE Corporation, McLean VA 22102
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 19:48:50 GMT

In article <Sep.11.13.54.20.1992.18361@aramis.rutgers.edu>
lfischer@aramis.rutgers.edu (Lfischer) writes:
 
>
>Whats a panel plane?  a rabbet plane?
>
>Larry Fischer
   A panel raising plane is one design to cut raised panels.  A panel plane
is a much rarer and more specialized tool having nothing to do with raised
panels.  Panel planes originated in Scotland around 1840 and were made by
Norris in London until just after world war II.  Panel planes are intended
to be used in smoothing wide panels of grainy hardwood.  They have very
tight throats and steeply bedded irons.  They vary in length from about
13" up to 16".  They are constructed with a steel or iron shell "stuffed"
with an exotic wood or sometimes walnut on user finished planes.
   Panel raising planes come in many styles.  They are always wood and have
skewed irons for working accross grain.  Some have separate nicker irons
ahead of the main iron for cutting the cross grain to leave a clean cut
on the edge of the raised area.  American panel raisers are typically handled.
British panel raisers are typicall not handled, and are shorter than there
American counterparts, running about 8 1/2 inches.  Cabinetmakers planes
can be distinguished from joiners by an additional angle cut on the raised
area to allow the panel to fit into the stile better.  Panel raiser have
both a depth stop and a fence; however, these may not be adjustable.
   A moving fillester is a similar plane in that it has a skewed iron,
a nicker iron, and adjustable fence and depth stop.  These may be iron or
wood.  The Stanley #78, 278, & 289 are moving fillesters; however, only the
289 is a traditional moving fillester with skewed iron.  I have seen articles
in Fine Woodworking showing panel raising being done with a Stanley fillester.
This approach will never yield first class results because the square edges
of the fillester do not create the correct angle at the edge of the field.
(This reminds me, the British usually call a panel raiser a fielding plane
to avoid the confusion with panel planes.)  The fillester also does not
allow the sophisticated touch of a second bevel where the panel enters the
stile.
   A rabbet plane is a simple flat soled plane with square sides and a blade
that cuts all the way to the edge of each side.  A rabbet plane is the basic
plane that a moving fillester is built on.  Take off the fence and depth stop
and you have a rabbet plane.
   I have had occasion in my tool trading to own a set of the planes
formerly sold by WoodCraft, and I assume the same as those now sold by
Garret Wade.  These planes are capable of first class work and are designed
to do a cabinetmakers style raised panel.  On the downside they are way
too light and have none of the feel of an orignal.  None the less, I
recommend them, and $150 is cheap compared to an original of this style.
   I hope this is of some help.  After the brutal response I received on
my remarks about Tiawanese machinery, I had sworn I would never post again.
From: peterson@ucunix.san.uc.edu (John M. Peterson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Pine weight
Date: 5 Sep 92 10:48:24 GMT
Organization: University of Cincinnati


>
>Does anyone out there know how much a board foot of pressure treated
>pine weighs? I need exact enough information to be able to calculate
>how much lumber I can get in a 1,200 pound truck load.
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Southern yellow pine:

   15% moisture 35.7 > 43.9 #/ft^3
    8% moisture 34.6 > 42.6 #/ft^3

   1k board ft @ 15% -- 2180 > 2680 #'s (dressed)

Other varibles: age since processed, storage(open, open shed, closed shed),
last rain, current hum./temp, & etc's.

USDA Wood Handbook



+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
|  peterson@headcheese.daa.uc.edu      	 In real life: John M. Peterson  |
|                                                                        |
|  College of Design Architecture Art & Planning                         |
|  University of Cincinnati           45221-0016           513-556-1207  |
+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
Organization: Central Michigan University
Date: Monday, 14 Sep 1992 14:57:36 EDT
From: Mark Strandskov <34HLEFG@CMUVM.CSV.CMICH.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Blurfl?

From FAQ lists...

>4). Should I buy a Sears blurfl?
>      ...
>5). Should I buy a Taiwanese clone blurfl?

Where did the term blurfl come from?  I get the general idea what
it is trying to say but I have never seen the word/acronym "blurfl"
before.

Just curious...

Mark...
From: lfischer@aramis.rutgers.edu (Lfischer)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Panel Planes
Date: 11 Sep 92 17:54:20 GMT
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

Whats a panel plane?  a rabbet plane?

Larry Fischer
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Electrical problems in FUSE BOX?
Date: 11 Sep 92 20:32:09 GMT
Organization: LLNL

In article <lb1psmINNj0e@news.bbn.com>, rperry@bbn.com (Richard A. Perry) writes:
> 

> My problem seems that I can't seem to shut off certain lights in my house
> by turning off the circuit breaker.  This would seem like it is a bad
> circuit breaker but here is the other problem with it.  If I shut off
> a certain sequence of fuses then I end up losing all of my power in the
> house.

1. Diagnosing this problem from afar is as irresponsible as giving a medical
diagnosis over the phone.

2. You seem confused as to whether you have circuit breakers or fuses.

3. The things you report are typical of a very bad and incompetent wiring job.
I wouldn't proceed any further until I had determined the actual circuit
diagram for your house wiring.  If, indeed, you have a combination of
fuses and circuit breakers, it sounds like an amateur lashup of an original
fuse-based system.  All sins are possible.

4. If 3. is true, then it got that way because somebody did things the
"easy" way.  I wouldn't advise continuing the tradition.  Get professional
help on the site.

Gary
From: ag423@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Frank Fijalkovich)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Black Walnut
Date: 9 Sep 1992 07:21:29 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc4.ins.cwru.edu


A friend of mine has a black walnut tree in his back yard that he
wants removed. Does anyone know if tree is worth anything and
who would be interested in buying it ? It is about 2 to 2.5 feet
in diameter. Thanks in advance for any info.

			Frank
-- 
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 8 Sep 1992 15:11:45 CDT
From:         Jeff Roberts <JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: tuning a jointer
              1 Sep 1992 20:57:17 GMT from <mwagner@NEXT.NEXT.COM>

On Tue, 1 Sep 1992 20:57:17 GMT Mark Wagner said:
>I bought a Jet 6 inch jointer (new) about 6 months ago.  In the first
>project in which I used it (jointing edges before gluing them up) it
>worked ok but not great.  I found that the edges were smooth but not
>straight (such that butting two jointed boards up against each other
>would leave a bit of a gap in the middle).  At first I thought that my
>technique was lacking but now I'm beginning to think the machine is not
>tuned properly.
>
>The books I've consulted seem to say that this will happen if the infeed
>and outfeed tables aren't perfectly parallel.  The problem, though, is
>that I know of no adjustment on the machine for this.
>
>Any advice would be welcomed...  Please either post or e-mail me directly.
>
>mwagner@next.com

(Set the adjustment knob/lever to zero first!)
You should be able to lay a straight edge across the infeed table over the
blade and rest the other end on the outfeed table.  The blades should just
barely touch the straight edge.  If they don't you should be able to loosen
whatever holds the blades to the machine and make the adjustment.  You should
also be able to somehow reset your depth-of-cut adjustment knob/lever to zero
after adjusting the blades.  I'm guessing but I think your blades are set
too high.

Jeff Roberts jroberts@utdallas.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: crogers@sctc.com (Clyde Rogers)
Subject: Under $500 6" Jointers
Summary: what jointer should I get?
Keywords: jointer
Organization: SCTC
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 01:29:29 GMT

I'm looking to get a jointer for my shop.  I'm looking at 6" models, and
would like to keep the price under $500.  More important than price,
however, is accuracy and quality.  I've got sales data on Delta's small
6" and the Grizzly 6".  I'd be interested in hearing from anyone who has 
experience (good or bad) with these and/or other jointers.

I'm paticularly interested in construction quality (reliability and 
durability), smoothness of cut and ease of setup.

Thanks,
Clyde Rogers
sctc.com


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: thomas@BAEPV4.NCSU.EDU
Subject: Re: Building a Wall Unit
Reply-To: thomas@BAEPV4.NCSU.EDU
Organization: North Carolina State University
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 14:57:54 GMT


RE.  plywood vs solid for large projects

Personally, although I really don't relish the idea of working with
plywood;  it's very stable, stronger than solid wood panels in 
directions other than perpendicular to the grain, and normally
very consistent in size and thickness. 

As far as looks go...  Only the very best wood is chosen to be used as
the veneer for hardwood ply, in fact around here fas walnut sells for 
about $3.50 to $4.00 a bdft, but a major maker of hardwood ply will 
buy _veneeer quality_ walnut (usually from a tree farm) for about 
what works out to be $4.50 to $5.00.  And can it look good?  One 
of the prettiest Armoire I have ever seen was made from bookmatched
walnut veneer plywood.  Really nice.

PS.  Before I get flamed, I don't think I stated the strength thing
above correctly, but I know what I mean :)

Scot Thomas    thomas@bae.ncsu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Which side gets the cleaner cut?             
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 92 19:01:45 GMT

In article <1992Sep10.182547.24511@cbfsb.cb.att.com> dwb@cbnewsb.cb.att.com (david.boyle) writes:
>I have some bi-fold closet doors to put up which need to be trimmed less than
>1" to better accommodate the rug.  I was planning on trimming the bottom of
>the doors on a RAS.  What type of blade should I be using for a "clean" cut?
>Should I place the finish side up or down when cutting?  Any other ideas to
>keep the door from splintering etc?  Thanks in advance.........Dave

If the bottom is solid wood (like louvered doors), Black & Decker makes a
45 tooth Pirana for ripping that works well for this sort of thing. Its
design is similar to a combination blade. For hollow core doors, I generally
use a 60 tooth Freud, but the 60 tooth Pirana is about as good. I put the
finish side up on my table saw; which means that you would want to put it
down on a radial arm.

Here's a trick we used to use with oak doors when cutting them with a
circular saw. Take a utility knife and score one side well where you want
the cut (use a straight edge and make several easy passes). Then make your
cut, keeping the saw blade just a hair (literally) outside the cut.

Another trick is to cover the cut with a piece of masking tape, mark
the tape, and saw through it. At least if the wood chips, the chips are
right there in the tape, ready to be glued bacl in.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | It is commonly agreed that the inventor of a weapon
                    | used to kill and maim must share in large measure
George Patterson -  | the guilt for its thousands of victims. By the way,
                    | who DID invent the bicycle chain?
                    |                            Kelvin Throop
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bednarek@picard.med.ge.com (Dennis Bednarek Mfg 4-6971)
Subject: Re: shop tools
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 92 05:35:06 GMT

Dennis Bednarek Mfg 4-6971 (bednarek@picard.med.ge.com) wrote:
: 
: 
: I have a very basic shop and want to expand it.  My desire is to be able
: to build furnature however I come up with a list of hundreds of tools
: that would cost in the thousands.  Presently I have a 10" delta table
: saw, a drill press, sears router, and circle saw, plus loads of hand tools.
: What I'm asking for is a priority list as far as what I need next in 
: power tools, a shaper, a band saw, a planer, etc and which is most important
: and most usefull.
: 
: Thanks Dennis
: 

After several E-Mail replies it seems like I should add a few more point
I also have an old dremal jigsaw, several vibrador type sanders, and loads
of hand tools.  The projects I intend to tackel in the near future are
1.  Adding Crown molding to several rooms
2.  Construction of an oak aquarium stand with a built in cabnet, and 
    drawers.
3.  A chest of drawers to match my daughters queen anne bed.
4.  Several small cabnets in French Provencial design.

Thanks again Dennis: 
: --
: 
:   
: ###############################################################################
: ###NEVER - NEVERMORE###########################################################
: ###############################################################################
: ####################################What are the contents of the oblong box?##
: ###############################################################################
:   The usual disclaimer of self and employer applies to all above comments.
: #

--

  
###############################################################################
###NEVER - NEVERMORE###########################################################
###############################################################################
####################################What are the contents of the oblong box?##
###############################################################################
  The usual disclaimer of self and employer applies to all above comments.
#
From: rperry@bbn.com (Richard A. Perry)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Electrical problems in FUSE BOX?
Date: 11 Sep 92 18:38:14 GMT
NNTP-Posting-Host: bbn.com

Question posted for a friend.  Please post answers to the NEWSGROUP.
THanks,

Rich.
Hello woodworkers,

I have a couple of electrical questions for you.  I know that this is a
woodworking news group but I have learned so much about wiring a workshop
in this group that I know some people will be able to answer this question?

My problem seems that I can't seem to shut off certain lights in my house
by turning off the circuit breaker.  This would seem like it is a bad
circuit breaker but here is the other problem with it.  If I shut off
a certain sequence of fuses then I end up losing all of my power in the
house.  This just doesn't seem to make sense to me.  I have no idea what is
going on and I plan on having an electrician come in next week.  I was
hoping to get some feedback as to what I could look for that would make this
problem occur.

Thank you very much for your time and I look forward to reading your
comments.

John D.
From: bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Advice about workshop tools
Date: 8 Sep 92 16:36:29 GMT
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Distribution: na
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated

FABY000 writes
> I live in Marquette Mi and people up here who heat their garage
> experience increased corrosion during the winter with their cars.

I believe this is because the salts used by municipalities to melt the snow
stick to the underside of the car. The heat accelerates their corrosive action. 
If the car is left outside the coldness inhibits the action and so they rust 
less.

But, unless you're in the habit of taking your tablesaw for a drive [;^)], 
heating the garage shouldn't adversely affect your tools. 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Squaring Up Stock
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 92 15:37:27 GMT

In article <10070030@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM> banks@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Mike Banks) writes:
>> In article <88060@netnews.upenn.edu> meiting@gradient.cis.upenn.edu (Mei-Ting Lu) writes:
>> >
>> >Could somebody out there give me some hints on squaring up stock.

<power tool methods deleted>

>For all the (non-power) hand tool advocates, how is this done 
>using *only* hand tools?

Well, you need a rip saw (7 to 9 point with no set to the teeth), a
crosscut (12 point or finer), a good square, a jack plane, and a block
plane. I assume you know how to use the hand saws? For ripping, it's
best to make a saw horse which has a slot cut in the top support. The
board is placed on this horse lined up the long way and the saw runs in
the slot.

Once the board is cut, use the block plane for removing any irregularities
in the cross-grain cuts, and use the jack plane for the ripped cuts. If
you place the work on a bench for planing, and lay the plane on its side,
you'll get square edges.

Real address - patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | There are very few personal problems which
George Patterson -  | cannot be solved by a suitable application
                    | of high explosive.
                    |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: tonyo@pendragon.CNA.TEK.COM (Tony Ozrelic)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bottom Line-Which Table Saw Is Best?
Date: 9 Sep 92 17:58:53 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Redmond,  OR.

In article <1992Sep8.190044.9968@afit.af.mil> fkilpatr@afit.af.mil (Freeman A. Kilpatrick) writes:
>
>>And your switch should have the "off" button standing higher than any other
>>button on the box.  Someone in panic and pain must be able to shut down
>>the tool with a closed fist (or a stump, if it gets as bad as that).
>
>Gross!  That's a mental picture I could sure do without.  If all you
>have left is a stump, then what *else* would you have stuck in the saw
>that you were in such a hurry to turn it off?  
>
>I think the key issue here is that it is easy to turn the saw off during
>normal operation, so you don't have to be too distracted from the
>spinning blade while turning the saw off.

My Grizzly has a two-button affair for power:

---
  |
  --
ON  |
  --
  |
  --
OFF |
  --
  |
---

I noticed I had a lot of trouble finding the switch by feel. I added a board on
a hinge that hung down. The board has a hole in it right in front of the ON
button and a rubber bumper in front of the OFF button:

---    -
  |   | |
  --
ON  |		<--- hole
  --
  |   | |
  -- || |
OFF ||| |	<--- bumper
  -- || |
  |   | |
---   | |
      | |
       -

The board is long enough so I can hit it with either my knee or my foot. The
hole is the same size as the ON button, so it's easy to find by feel.

Now I never have to take my eyes off my saw setup to control the power. I don't
know how many fingers it saved me, but I sure feel better about using the saw!

I got this from a "Methods of Work" item in Fine Woodworking. 

tony "weekend woodbutcher" o.
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
X-mailer:     Pegasus Mail v2.3 (R3).
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 8 Sep 1992 09:26:16 GMT+7
Reply-To:     $STEPHAN@SASB.BYU.EDU
From:         "STEPHAN.FASSMANN" <$STEPHAN@SASB.BYU.EDU>
Subject:      Finishing Aspen Futon

Hi! I've been lurking around for about two weeks and I have a
question.

I will be buying an unfinished Futon soon and it is made of aspen. I
would really like to finish it for obvious reasons. The shop owner
told us that many people use a clear spray Laquer to seal it and have
gotten good results. I was wondering what else there might be to seal
and protect the wood.
Thanks a lot.


/===Brigham Young University-Student Aux. Services-Housing===\
| Stephan Fassmann   {Network Software Support}   |\         |
| Internet:    $stephan@sasb.byu.edu              |          |
| GEnie:       S.FASSMANN                      __/^\_        |
\======= I don't believe in Miracles, I rely on them ========/
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bellas@soldev.TTI.COM (Pete Bellas)
Subject: Re:      Selecting Drill Press
Reply-To: bellas@soldev.TTI.COM (Pete Bellas)
Organization: Transaction Technology, Inc.
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 19:49:34 GMT

In article <11SEP92.21588115.0009.MUSIC@NMUMUS>,         FABY000
<FABY@NMUMUS.BITNET> writes:
> I just purchased the Delta 161/2' drill press primarily because I wanted
> as many speeds as possible.  

I got the Delta 16 1/2" for christmas and have no complaints.  I never 
realized just how useful a drill press is.

When you get it one of the first things to put on your list is a set of
forstner bits, they are great.

			-Pete-


* Pete Bellas                   "Cogito ergo spud"                         *
* Citicorp/TTI                       I think therefore I yam.              *
* Santa Monica, CA                                                         *
* bellas@gamma.tti.com                                                     *
From: jabarnes@batph5.bnr.ca (Jeff Barnes)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Sewing Table Plans
Date: 9 Sep 92 23:49:48 GMT
Reply-To: jabarnes@bnr.ca
Distribution: world
Organization: BNR Atlanta

A couple weeks ago the call went out or plans for Sewing 
Machine Tables. I saw no response to this plea on the net. 
Does anyone know if such plans exist somewhere?

Please post you answer as a lot of people have sent me mail 
wanting a copy if I ever find any.

Thanks!!
-- 
----------

Jeff Barnes                      jabarnes@bnr.ca
BNR Inc.                     
705 Westech Drive
Norcross, GA 30092