HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: doc@webrider.central.sun.com (Steve Bunis)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Shirt Pocket Cameras
Date: 8 Jan 93 21:46:41 GMT
Reply-To: doc@webrider.central.sun.com
Distribution: usa
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
NNTP-Posting-Host: webrider.central.sun.com

In article 2300093@hpgrla.gr.hp.com, peterd@hpgrla.gr.hp.com (Peter Davidoff) writes:
> Steve:
> 
> Recently I read an article about a 19th century vogue:  cameras in a hat.
> Yep.  They mounted the entire box and plate in the hat, dropped from the
> front brim a range finder, and over the ear, on a cord, was the shutter
> trip.
> 
> Seems like a great alternative to the pocket camera, eh?  :)
> 
> 
> Peter


Now all I have to do is start wearing hats!  Somehow I have to believe 
that more pictures would be taken of me in that getup than by me.  :^)

---
Steve Bunis,  Sun Microsystems     ***DoD #0795***
              Itasca, IL
From: glporter@zeus.calpoly.edu (Glen Porter)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Mac, of course (Was Re: IBM vs. Mac for stock business)
Date: 8 Jan 93 18:12:21 GMT
Organization: California Polytechnic State University, San Luis Obispo

In article <1993Jan8.150225.7921@nmr-z.mgh.harvard.edu> alexm@nmr-z.mgh.harvard.edu (Alex Milshteyn) writes:
>In article <93007.200852U42075@uicvm.uic.edu> U42075@uicvm.uic.edu (Theodore Stresen-Reuter) writes:
>>
>>Here is the question: Do you buy an IBM or a Macintosh (or some other
>>system) and why?
>
>IMHO, Mac is much better, easier to use.  Macs have been used for image 
>manipulation for quite a long time, when PC's could not even handle it.

I have to disagree (in a way) here.  An IBM pc (clone obviously -never buy an
IBM brand IBM!) Has more capability than Macs ever will.  However, the 
software market has turned to only writting such programs for MACs, but only 
because of the generally computer illiterate photography market.

the rest of the information you stated is quite correct.  The Mac needs a huge
amount of storage just to run, then add the amound of data space needed for
pictures, and you are looking at an Optical disk, or a gigabyte hard drive
 - quite true.

I hope you will forgive me for venting (see above), but it is one of my
pet peaves to hear "Macs do more than IBM's".  In a networking environment for
example, you will only see a Macintosh as a file server for macintoshs'.
IBM's are true workhorses.  Macs are pretty, and "safe", which slows the 
Mac down to a crawl.  

BTW, the very first image manipulators were CPM.  
CPM is the closely related predicessor to DOS (IBM).  This was all done, at 
XEROX on Intel 80 series platforms, long before the MAC was even thought of.
IBM programs run on the Intel 80 series platforms, not Mac programs.

The dominance of MAC computers in Image manipulation, is strictly business
related, not capability related.

>You have to remember, though, that a computer is not the only thing you
>must have if you go into that business.  You will have to buy:
.
.
.

>>
>>You would like to use your computer for image manipulation and for image
>>storage purposes.
>
>- opticals will solve the problem of storage and portability
>
>>You have virtually no experience with computers.
>>
>-Macintosh

Yes, for this application, and it's user, suggest a Mac too.  But If they start
writting image manipulation programs commercially for the IBM, then you will see
some real power put to good use.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: mwandel@bnr.ca (Markus Wandel)
Subject: Re: Olympus Trip 35 Shutter Speed?
Organization: bnr
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 20:51:15 GMT

In article <1993Jan8.155841.13038@bcrka451.bnr.ca> poole@bnr.ca (Thomas Poole) writes:

>Can someone tell me the shutter speed of the
>Olympus Trip 35?

From dim memory, I recall that the shutter speeds are 1/40 sec and 1/200 sec.
That's right, there are two; the lower one is invoked for dim light and
for the manual aperture settings.  The two shutter speeds sound distinctly
different.

The exposure system of this camera (the only automatic aperture AND shutter
camera I know of that uses NO batteries) can be revealed for all to see
by removing the top cover.

Markus Wandel
markus@pinetree.org <-- NOT the source of this posting.
Xref: sparky rec.photo:22994 misc.forsale:34605 fl.forsale:277
From: jrm@reef.cis.ufl.edu (Jeff Mason)
Newsgroups: rec.photo,misc.forsale,fl.forsale
Subject: FOR SALE: Polaroid Automatic 230 Land Camera and Accessories
Date: 5 Jan 93 18:25:20 GMT
Followup-To: rec.photo
Distribution: na
Organization: Univ. of Florida CIS Dept.

I am selling off some of my camera equipment, and I came across this instant
camera set-up that I had bought about a year ago because I wanted to dabble
in instant protography.

For Sale:

- Polaroid Automatic 230 Land Camera
	Perfect working condition.  This is not one of those cheap Instamatic 
	point and shoot cameras.  This is a very sturdy, quality camera from 
	the late 60s or early 70s, with all the original documentation and
	accessories (strap/cold-clip #193)
- Polaroid Portrait Kit #581
	This allows for very near focus for portrait type settings.  It 
	consists of three parts, a portrait lens, a portrait attachment for
	the viewfinder, and a diffuser for the #268 flashgun shield.  With this
	you can focus on subjects much nearer than the normal closest focusing
	distance.  A picture taken from 19 inches, the closest focusing
	distance, will include an area of approximately 11 x 14.5 inches.  In
	a picture taken from the farthest focusing distance, 42 inches., the 
	area will be approximately 28 x 37 inches.
- Polaroid Close-Up Kit #583
	This kit consists of three parts; a close-up lens, a close-up 
	attachment for the viewfinder, and a diffuser for the #268 flashgun
	shield.  With the close-up lens and attachment on the camera, you can
	focus on subjects much nearer than the normal closest focusing 
	distance.  You can come as close as 9 to 15 inches to get a big image
	of objects like flowers, coins, body parts, etc...     
- Polaroid Flash Model 268
	Comes with blue diffuser/flash-shield.
- Box of Sylvania Blue Dot Clear M2 Flashbulbs
	For use with the Flash gun.
- Box of Polaroid 107C 3000 speed Instant film
	This stuff is still on the market, but I will throw this in to get
	you started.  I might have a box of color film somewhere too.

All of the above for $100.00 plus shipping or best offer.

Jeff Mason

	
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: poole@bnr.ca (Thomas Poole)
Subject: Camera Shops In Montreal?
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Ottawa, Canada
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 14:21:44 GMT

I will be heading to Montreal this Saturday and
was wondering what places are good for used
equipment. Please post since I still can't
seem to receive mail.
Tom...
From: martin@cs.utk.edu (Timothy A. Martin)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: winter gloves shown in Feb 93 Pop Photo
Date: 6 Jan 1993 19:45:33 GMT
Organization: University of Tennessee, Knoxville - CS Department
NNTP-Posting-Host: duncan.cs.utk.edu

There's a little blurb in the Feb 93 issue of Popular Photography
on page 10 about the "Photographer's Glove."  It has little rubber
nubs on the palm-side of each glove.  They are full-finger gloves
made of a thin, usually Thermax fabric.

They are great for keeping your hands both warm and dextrous during
these cold months.

The deal though is that the ad says they run about $26...
I got the same gloves for bicycling last year.  You can still
get them for about $10 from Bike Nashbar or Performance - both
of which are mail order bike supply stores.

Nashbar:  1-800-nashbar (627-4227)	Part No: BN-TG ($8.90/pr)
Performance: 1-800-pbs-bike (727-2453)	Part No: 16-3309 ($9.95/pr)

		-- Tim
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Tim Martin <martin@cs.utk.edu>		. 
The University of Tennessee, Knoxville	.
CS Department Sys Admin			.
-- 
 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Tim Martin <martin@cs.utk.edu>		. 
The University of Tennessee, Knoxville	.
CS Department Sys Admin			.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: donl@glass.esd.sgi.com (donl mathis)
Subject: Re: $#@^$% JOBO Reels
Keywords: JOBO
Reply-To: donl@glass.esd.sgi.com (donl mathis)
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc., Mountain View, CA, USA
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 01:17:49 GMT


In article <1993Jan10.001335.7813@cs.UAlberta.CA>, rodney@cs.UAlberta.CA
(Rodney Gitzel) writes:
|> 
|> I've finally started to use the JOBO CPE-2
|>  (two-speed version) processor I inherited
|>  with this job.  Two or three batches later,
|>  I am ready to stop using it period.  The problem
|>  is the reels.

Alright.  Slow down.  Take a deep breath.  :)

|> The CPE-2 came as a "starter kit"; do they ship
|>  *extremely* cheap reels with such kits?  The
|>  ones I have are flimsy white plastic, and I have
|>  *yet* to get one loaded without snagging the
|>  film (35mm).  One night it took nearly 20 minutes
|>  to load only four reels!!!

Sometimes it does get a bit tricky.  I have always suspected that the
culprits are those little pointy bumps that appear every so often along
the film path; if you look on the inside face of one side of the reel,
you'll probably see them.  Nasty, sharp, pointy teeth.

My approach has been as follows:

	* Trim the film end so that it has two nice angles instead
	of two sharp corners, being careful to avoid the sprocket
	holes.  These seem to help quite a bit.

	* I try the "straight ahead" approach that another poster
	mentioned -- don't twist the reel halves, just push the film
	straight on.  Sometimes it stops and I have to start winding.
	Sometimes I can break it loose (see below) and keep pushing.
	The more of the film you can push straight on the reel, the
	better.

	* When I wind, I trap the film against the reel with my thumb,
	right where it enters the groove, on the "backstroke".  This
	helps prevent it from coming back out.  It's a bit harder
	to describe than to do -- the idea is that you use your thumb
	as part of the ratcheting mechanism: twist more film on, grab
	it, wind the reel back the other way.  Practice.

	* When it gets stuck, I let it back up a bit.  Now I can use
	my thumb as part of a reverse ratchet if necessary.  Take 
	another run at it.  Repeat as necessary.

	* When it gets *really* stuck, I grab it firmly at the edge with
	my thumb, and twist that other reel repeatedly in no uncertain
	terms -- jab, jab, jab!  One of those jabs will usually break
	it loose and get past the tick.

	* I remind myself that if things get too annoying, I can just
	go in and clear off all those little pointy bumps with a sharp
	knife.  I will not be mastered by a piece of plastic.

- donl mathis at Silicon Graphics Computer Systems, Mountain View, CA
donl@sgi.com
From: mikec@spider.co.uk (Mike Coren)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Questions about everything
Date: 6 Jan 93 11:56:36 GMT
Organization: Spider Systems Limited, Edinburgh, UK.

In article <1993Jan5.132730.2495@nntpserver.chevron.com> hklrs@usho94.hou281.chevron.com (Kevin Larson) writes:
>In article <1993Jan5.114632.29209@spider.co.uk> mikec@spider.co.uk (Mike Coren) writes:
>>
>>
>>8)  What is the air speed velocity of an unlaiden swallow?
>>
>  European or African ?

Huh?  I don't know-AAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!

(this post cost the net hundreds if not thousands of dollars)

-- 
Michael D. Coren, Electrical Engineer             mikec@spider.co.uk
Telecommunications Techniques Corporation, Germantown, Maryland, USA.
Temporarily at Spider Systems Limited, Edinburgh, Scotland, UK.
From: wjh@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (william.j.hery)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Olympus XA/XA 2 Opinions Wanted
Date: 5 Jan 93 21:44:37 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: AT&T

>Has anyone used the Olympus XA or XA 2?  Do you
>have any opinions?  How are the optics?  Can I 
>expect good 8x10s with it?  As I understand it
>is a coupled rangefinder, how is it at focusing?

The XA is a coupled rangefinder, but the XA2 has three zones (portrait, group,
scene). The XA has a sharper lens than the XA2, or the Stylus Infity that I
bought to replace my stolen XA. The XA is not as sharp as my old Pentax
50/1.4 or my current Nikon lenses. Some would consider an 8x10 from an XA
good, others wouldn't--its too subjective.

Bill Hery
AT&T Bell Labs
201-386-2362
hery@att.COM
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: dp54@mc4adm.UWaterloo.ca (Rob Silcher)
Subject: Auto-Focus Lens on Manual SLR
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 18:16:05 GMT

Well one of my Christmas gifts came as a nice surprise. It was a new Pentax
28-80 mm auto-focus zoom lens.  The only problem (althouth may not be) is 
that my camera is manual focus (Pentax ME Super). At first I thought it
wouldn't work but after I hooked it up it seemed to work fine.  The only
draw back is the focusing ring. Its quite narrow compared to my manual lenses,
although I've quickly gotten used to it.

Is this configuration okay?  I haven't had any pictures developed yet but
I think they will be ok. I am considering returning it for a manual focus lens
but believe it or not the manual costs more!  Also if I ever get a auto-focus
body I'll have a lens for it.

Thanks in advance,

Rob Silcher dp54@mc4adm.UWaterloo.ca
.

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: hintzman@hpljah.hpl.hp.com (Jeff Hintzman)
Subject: Re: Simple checks for layman on lens and camera.
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 17:19:40 GMT
Reply-To: hintzman@hpljah.hpl.hp.com
Organization: HP IC Business Division R&D, Palo Alto, CA

In article <lkds2hINN6sr@news.bbn.com>, koolish@bbn.com (Richard M. Koolish) writes:
|> acs@csri.toronto.edu (Alvin Chia-Hua Shih) writes:
|> 
|> >I've never been to a photo fair, but it doesn't seem to make sense for
|> >someone to sell something cheaper just because they're at a fair.
|> >Indeed, some go to similar events *assuming* the prices are lower when
|> >really they're not.  Shop around a bit before going to the fair.
|> 
|>     Photo fairs allow you to shop around in one place.  Do this and
|>     you can sometimes find a bargain.  When I got a Nikkor 24mm f2.8,
|>     I looked through photo shows for a year and a half before I found
|>     one at a price I was willing to pay.  I have found that photo fairs
|>     are a good place to shop because the selection is much larger than
|>     you would find at any single store and because you can actually
|>     see and touch the equipment.  Prices can be good because not every
|>     dealer is trying to gouge you, and because they don't always want
|>     to lug all the stuff home.  Because the shows bring in so many people
|>     they often bring items that might not sell otherwise.
|> 
|> >Friends of mine went to an auction of assets from a computer
|> >distributor that closed down.  Many items were being sold for *much*
|> >*higher* than market value because the bidders didn't do their
|> >homework.  (And all items were sold "as-is"!)
|> 

I have bought a lot of stuff at photo fairs, and I have yet to get a
real klunker.  I mostly buy lenses, usually in the less than $300 range.
Anything like a camera body, a light meter, a really expensive lens, etc.
I will get at a real store.  If a lens from a major manufacturer is clean,
unscratched, the aperture blades move smoothly, and the focusing ring
turns smoothly and evenly, that chances are good that everything is OK.
You can (usually) tell in a few seconds whether a lens has been abused or not.
Don't buy something that is so expensive that you won't be able to live
with yourself if it doesn't work out - save those for a place where you
can take the merchandise back.  For some "popular" items like a 50mm 
lens or a 70-210 zoom you may well find several of them at one show, 
in various conditions and at varying prices.  Other items (possibly 
the 24mm Nikkor mentioned above) may be much more scarce.  Be patient!  
Know what the item is worth before you go.


-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jeff Hintzman                                  hintzman@hpljah.hpl.hp.com
Hewlett-Packard Integrated Circuit Business Division 
Palo Alto, CA                                              (415) 857-7616
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: artc@iplmail.orl.mmc.com (Art)
Subject: LOVE MY NEW SB-25
Organization: MMC
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 15:44:14 GMT

All you Nikon followers:


	go out and get yourself the NEW SB-25..

	just got back the first row of picture ->
	and it is awsome!!!!


	give it a try...
	I got it for $281.00 


	Love it!!


	Art



Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: ecldco@ultb.isc.rit.edu (E.C. Loyd)
Subject: Re: WANTED: carrying strap for bogen tripod
Reply-To: ecldco@ultb.isc.rit.edu (E.C. Loyd)
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 14:14:38 GMT

If you're looking for a cheap strap, go to a used camera
store, look for their box of parts no one wants, grab
an old 60's style camera strap (1-2" wide, pastel flowers,
you know what I'm talking about), and some nylon
strapping.  Then, make two loops out of the strapping,
and hook your head (on the tripod, that is) through one
loop, and the legs (up to the knobs) through the other
loop.

Poof!  Instant, cheap strap.  And, in my experience, it
is much more balanced than a true Bogen strap that has
to hook onto that little spot on the head mount.  You can
actually carry a Bogen tripod with the legs open in this
manner.  Can't do it with their single point of contact strap.
--
Eric C. Loyd                            ecldco@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
ISC/Data Center Operations              Phone: (716) 475-7320
Rochester Institute of Technology       FAX:   (716) 475-5306
Rochester, NY  14623  USA               All-In-One: LOYD EC (@a1.isc.rit.edu)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jacobson@cello.hpl.hp.com (David Jacobson)
Subject: Flimsy tripod suggestion
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 02:31:51 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories


In the February Popular Photography Herbert Keppler says you can make
a flimsy tripod rigid by hanging weight from the center.  I've also
heard this suggested on rec.photo.  He also says that if you can't
find something heavy to uses as a weight, just press down with your
hand.  

My question is "Why does this work"?  It seems that if I stress the
tripod, that will flex its mechanical members to new equilibrium
positions, but not change their Young's modulus, etc.  For degrees of
freedom in which vibration would lift and lower the weight, the added
weight might lower the resonant frequency.  The two obvious motions
are the the camera oscillating about a vertical axis or a horizontal
axis.  Both of these motions seem to happen because of flexing of the
legs, but neither raise or lower a weight hung from the center post.
Perhaps using your hand damps vibration, but also couples the whole
thing to a very unstable object---you.

Comments?

  -- David Jacobson
From: davis@bedlam.asd.sgi.com (Tom Davis)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Black and White Photography - Can I do it?
Date: 6 Jan 1993 16:09:16 GMT
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc.
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: bedlam.asd.sgi.com

To take the B&W pictures, all you have to do is put in
B&W film and take pictures as before.  Since the vast
majority of film is now color, taking it to Walgreens
for development may not work.  Most places that do a
lot of color development simply send all the other
stuff (slides, B&W) to a lab that does handle it, so
you have to wait a few days.

Some places may not even mess with B&W since they
get so few rolls.  Just call around a bit, and I'm
sure you can find a place.  Actually, it's likely
that whereever you can buy B&W film, you can probably
get it developed.

If you really need B&W "prints in an hour", you may
have to go to a pro lab and pay extra $$$.  Or you
can set up a darkroom and do it yourself -- B&W is
pretty easy.

If you require instant gratification, consider using
Ilford XP2 film.  It makes B&W negatives, but is
processed using the standard C41 process that's used
for color print film, and hence can be processed at
the "prints in an hour" places.  The prints you get
may look a little strange since they will be printed
on color paper, and will not be precisely B&W --
maybe some sepia tones, or dark purples.  But they
will be reasonable proofs.  If you get any great
negatives, you can then send them to your favorite
lab and get your 3 foot by 2 foot prints.

XP2 is also sort of neat in that you can shoot it
with an ASA setting of anything between 50 and 800
(according to the manufacturer -- I've talked to
people who have used it between ASA 25 and ASA 6400,
and still been able to make prints from it).  You
can shoot different pictures on the roll at different
ASA settings.

Have fun.
From: rjw@nsa.hp.com (Richard Webber)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Bargains in Moscow?
Date: 8 Jan 93 18:34:47 GMT
Distribution: rec.photo
Organization: Networked Systems Architecture, Hewlett-Packard

I will be visiting Moscow for a week in February.  Does anyone know of any
good camera bargains to look out for while I am there?  Or where the good 
photo stores are?  I am interested in medium or large (4x5) format equipment.
I have heard that the domestic Kiev 88 is generally of poorer quality than
the export versions.  Is this true?  What prices might I expect?  Any items
or brands to seek out or avoid?

Any information or experience would be greatly appreciated - feel free to
email or post a reply.  I will happily repost or email a summary of the
answers I get.

Richard
From: barryg@hplsla.hp.com (Barry Gunn)
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 16:24:34 GMT
Subject: Re: Olympus Stylus Recommendations
Organization: HP Lake Stevens, WA
Newsgroups: rec.photo

>
>	So, would you Barry Gunn be so kind as to offer us your reccomendation
>for the best P&S around (if you don't assume MONEY to be a key factor, of
>course the Contax T2 and the Konica Hexar would be the better ones).
>----------
I would look (in order) at the Rolli Prego, Yashica T4, or one of the new 
Nikon's. I haven't seen the results of these so I can't recommend one over 
the others. In the Shutterbug review of the Prego, the author did a lens 
test and was impressed with the sharpness, and it has more focus zones
than the stylus(160). The T4 has a Carl Ziese(sp?) lens and all the Stylus 
trimmings. Nikon is pushing sharpness in the adds, but they aren't what I'd 
call compact. 
 I owned a stylus about a year ago but sold it because the pictures were
not very sharp. The camera seemed to be designed to be sharpest in the 3ft
to 10ft range. I don't think there is a real infinity focus zone, it just
uses depth of field. I used ektar 100 in sunlight, flash indoors, fill flash
outside. This would be a great camera for documenting something because of
it's convenience, but not if you want the kind of results you can get with
your SLR. My wife even thought it took bad pictures, and she's not as critical
as me.
     _
    [o] Barry Gunn x2281
    /|\ barryg@lsid.hp.com


ps. no more nasty email, eh?
From: mpc@biosys.apldbio.COM (Morgan Conrad)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Olympus XA/XA 2 Opinions Wanted
Date: 6 Jan 93 01:59:32 GMT
Reply-To: mpc@apldbio.com (Morgan Conrad)
Distribution: na
Organization: Applied Biosystems Inc, Foster City, CA

somebody who's name I've forgotten (sorry) asks:

>Has anyone used the Olympus XA or XA 2?  Do you
>have any opinions?  How are the optics?  Can I
>expect good 8x10s with it?

  From all the hearsay evidence I've heard, the XA is better than
the XA2.  In my experience, the XA has a good lens, and will make
fine 8x10s, if you stop down to f8 or so.  Though it looks silly,
using a tripod may help - some people have more shaking problems
with light cameras.  You can use the self timer as the shutter release.

  While hiking, I have my XA (35mm lens) in a pocket, and my SLR with
another focal length lens (often a 105mm macro) around my neck.
This covers a lot of the options - I get landscapes, closeups,
and portraits without changing a lens.


Morgan Conrad              Who grants absolution
Applied Biosystems           for sins that never were committed?
mpc@apldbio.com
415-570-6667