HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: myjak@titan.ksc.nasa.gov (Michael D. Myjak)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: What about Built-in Bookcases
Date: 16 Apr 92 19:21:42 EST
Organization: 


> I want the wall (about 10 ft long) to be one large bookcase.  The
> problem I'm worried about is if I have a common vertical piece
> between two compartments, the dados let into the piece will 
> leave too little material for comfort.  I.e.:
> 
>       |      |
>       |vert. |
>       |piece |
> ---------  ---------
>  shelf  |  |  shelf
>         |* |               * Is this too thin?
> ---------  ---------
>       |      |
>       |      |
>       |      |
> Marc Pucci
-- 

The answer is really quite simple. Think about using different
dado spacing for the each left dados from the right. 

You can either use one set of spacing for all left shelf dados... and
another for all right shelf dados.. or you can alternate inside and
outside for every other shelf.  I usually offset the "inside" dado
pairs from the opposing "outside" side pairs by 1.5 times the width of
the dado, each.  this leaves sufficient material to carry the weight
required. 

My ASCII graphics are a bit rusty... but if you look at the sides from
the top down... you might get the idea:


       |      |
       |      |
       |__    |
          |   |
        __|   |
       |    __|
       |   |
       |   |__
       |      |
       |      |
       |      |

- Michael D. Myjak			
  Senior Technical Specialist, Systems Analyst
  McDonnell Douglas Space Systems Company - KSC
  MYJAK@TITAN.KSC.NASA.GOV

Fea'ture N.  Distinction; Characteristic; Perculiarity (!)
             A bug with documentation.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: grun@intellistor.com (Paul Grun)
Subject: Re: Dust Collector Static?
Organization: Intellistor, Inc.
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 92 18:14:42 GMT

In <3050080@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com> stevej@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com (Steve Johnson) writes:

>I have used a sears blurfl (shop vac) for collecting dust from my planer and
>router table. The buildup of static is very real. I often get nasty shocks
>because the shavings rub on the plastic hose and charge up the whole tool
>attached to the thing. I have no fires or explosions, so I wonder how real 
>the hazard is. In theory, dust+electric discharge is bad, but I fail to see
>how much worse a dust collector could be than an al plastic shop vac. I would
>be interested in hearing any first person accounts of a problem with an
>un-grounded system.

I also have a sears blurfl (shop vac) which works great and also delivers
healthy doses of static discharge.  I don't really believe that the static
discharge is a serious safety issue. It's just that I hate the !!@#%$# static
shock.  Makes me crazy.  
BTW, I notice that it doesn't seem to build up a static charge when it's just
sucking air (vaccuming up fine dust layer, stuff like that).  But when it startssucking up lots of chips and shavings, and especially big piles of sawdust,
I can count of a huge static shock. Maybe its almost time to install a serious
dust collector and properly ground the pipe work??

-Paul
-- 

goes to show, you don't ever know...
grun@intellistor.com
From: bilkerla@pluto.crd.ge.com (Lawrence A. Bilker)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Want to get started in woodworking
Keywords: woodworking, workshop
Date: 8 Apr 92 17:16:04 GMT
Reply-To: bilkerla@pluto.crd.ge.com (Lawrence A. Bilker)
Organization: GE CR&D, Distributed Systems and Services, Information Systems Oper.

I would like feedback on starting in Woodworking as well.


From: colaluca@cs.utexas.edu (Mark Colaluca) writes:

---- Begin Included message ----

I checked the FAQ, and this doesn't seem to be one, so I'll ask anyways.
If someone like myself wants to get started in woodworking, what would
be the best route to go?  I would imagine it would be very nice to have
an experienced woodworker on hand to "show you the ropes", however, I
do not have this luxury.  Also, it appears to me (by watching shows like
the New Yankee Workshop and others) that a significant monetary investment
in tools and equipment must be made to produce any appreciable woodworking
project (that is, produce it efficiently, rather than hand-sawing, etc.).
I guess I'd like some general feedback from experienced woodworkers out there
on their own start in the hobby, and any advice for a newcomer.

---- End Included Message

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Lawrence A. Bilker                      InterNet: bilker@crd.ge.com
Systems Analyst                          UUCPNet: uunet!crd.ge.com!bilker
Information Systems Operation            BellNet: (518) 387-6761
General Electric                           GENet: 8*833-6761
Corporate Research and Development
From: fwc@cbnewsi.cb.att.com (frank.w.camposano..jr)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Sliding table refit...
Summary: Comments
Date: 9 Apr 92 14:38:21 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: AT&T

In article <1992Apr9.121626.22583@HQ.Ileaf.COM>, richer@HQ.Ileaf.COM (Al Richer) writes:
> 
>  Last weekend, I had the pleasure of inheriting a Sears 10", belt-driven
> tablesaw built when Sears built good tools. As I presently own a radial-arm
> saw, I really don't have a place in my shop for both. I was wondering if
> anyone had seen (or heard of) an aftermarket sliding table like the ones
> presently available on the new Ryobi precision cutting system.
> 
>  Yes, I am aware I can build a sliding table cover from plywood and lock
> it into the table slots, but I'd prefer something a little more permanent..
>

First, I wouldn't rule out some Sliding tables on the market ( or building
your own ).  An excellent article is in the April 92 issue of Fine Woodworking.
They evaluated a number of after market miter accessories including sliding
tables. One of the sliding tables evaluated and highly rated was the Dubby
by In-line industries ( 800-533-6709 ).  I also own this unit and am very
pleased with the performance.  It runs about $100.  If you are set on a more
permanent type I know of at least two companies that offer them ( and there
are probably more).  Mule makes a sliding table attachment which I have seen
in the Woodworkers Supply (800- 645-9292) catalog for about $329. I have also
seen a unit by Biesmeyer but I'm not sure of the price. 

Good luck and happy woodworking !!!
 __________________________________________________________
/_________________________________________________________/|
|Frank Camposano  - AT&T Bell Laboratories, Freehold, NJ | |
|              (908) 577-4408                            | |
|Opinions are my own and do not represent my employer in | |
|any way.                                                | | 
|________________________________________________________|/
From: rcbi27@muvms3.bitnet (DBRUM)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: worm drive saws
Date: 13 Apr 92 18:33:02 GMT
Organization: Marshall University

Recently there was a discussion here about the merits/drawbacks of
"worm drive" saws.

I own a Skil 7 1/2" worm drive saw and find it very useful for
cross-cutting hardwood boards of various thicknesses to rough
length for easier handling during subsequent machining and
woodworking operations.

It's a heavy, powerful saw, and is great for this specialized 
purpose, but otherwise--on a construction site, for instance--
one would probably get quite tired of picking this beast up and
putting it down all day. It would be a good choice if you had
much ripping to do, because it rides smooth and stable compared
to the conventional, smaller power saw types which, due to
their close configuration of handle to blade tend to want to
pull sideways when extra resistance is encountered. The worm 
drive's handle is aligned more behind the torque point than 
above it.

It's a fairly expensive little saw, and I guess there is varying
quality and prices among given brands. I think Skil is the one
who invented this design, over fifty years ago. It is, in any
case, an excellent tool to use, with a very good "feel" of
quality and balance. It's the cadillac of hand-held saws.

--danny
-- 
	"Were his solid black square paintings really,
	as the artist claimed, simply neutral, abstract
	compositions devoid of external references and
	meanings?" ***********************************
From: esr@perseus.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Edwin S. Russell)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Good stores or other WW attractions in SF Bay area (?)
Date: 15 Apr 92 17:53:31 GMT

In article <1992Apr15.145647.5509@hplabsz.hpl.hp.com>  
wentzel@hplabsz.hpl.hp.com (Kevin Wentzel) writes:
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> I'll be in San Franscisco next week and would appreciate any suggestions
> of good stores or other wood working attractions to visit.  I suppose
> I might get over to Oakland and/or Berkeley for half a day, so east bay
> suggestions are also welcome.
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Southern Lumber, San Jose, Alma St. and Montery Highway.

I think Southern Lumber is the place that did our back fence a few years  
ago and is no longer in business.  Maybe somebody else can confirm.

I used to get a catalog for tools and wood from a place in Alameda.  They  
had monthly specials on different kinds of wood.  However, I no longer get  
the catalog and I can't remember the name.  I may have an old catalog at  
home if nobody else can help.
From: dhirmes@hamp.hampshire.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Woodworking jobs in DC?
Date: 6 Apr 92 17:12:39 GMT
Article-I.D.: hamp.1992Apr6.131239.1
Organization: Hampshire College

This is a long shot, but here goes...

I'm planning on living in Washington, DC, this summer and was wondering
if anyone knew of any jobs/apprenticeships for woodworkers/builders there.
Any leads would be greatly appreciated...

David Hirmes
dhirmes@hamp.hampshire.edu
From: donb@crash.cts.com (Donald Bowen)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Delta motorized jointer
Date: 16 Apr 92 16:03:57 GMT
Article-I.D.: crash.1992Apr16.160357.372
Organization: Crash TimeSharing, El Cajon, CA


	I am considering the purchase of the Delta 6 in. motorized jointer.
Has anyone had any experience with this tool?  An option is the Grizzley
6 in. which has been the subject of discussion several times and gets a
good review.  The Grizzley will cost me $414 to my door.  I can get the
Delta from a local store for $354 and I pick it up.

	Comments, suggestions ??
	DonB
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: dbingham@bnr.ca (David Bingham)
Subject: Re: Want to get started in woodworking...
Reply-To: dbingham@bnr.ca
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd., Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 08 Apr 92 00:38:58 GMT

In article <ku3p6kINN59i@saltillo.cs.utexas.edu>, colaluca@cs.utexas.edu (Mark Colaluca) writes:
> I checked the FAQ, and this doesn't seem to be one, so I'll ask anyways.
> If someone like myself wants to get started in woodworking, what would
> be the best route to go?  I would imagine it would be very nice to have
> an experienced woodworker on hand to "show you the ropes", however, I
> do not have this luxury.  Also, it appears to me (by watching shows like
> the New Yankee Workshop and others) that a significant monetary investment
> in tools and equipment must be made to produce any appreciable woodworking
> project (that is, produce it efficiently, rather than hand-sawing, etc.).
> I guess I'd like some general feedback from experienced woodworkers out there
> on their own start in the hobby, and any advice for a newcomer.
> 

Our local school boards offer courses in woodworking through their
'Continuing Education' programs - I don't know what the school system in
your city is like, but I imagine similar courses are available there.

The levels of instruction vary from 'beginner', where you'll be taught
the proper use of hand and power tools, cabinetmaking basics, finishing,
etc., up to 'unstructured'.  I still take the unstructured course on 
occasion, just to have access to tools that I can't afford or don't have
room for (planers, band saws, etc.).  It basically amounts to free time
in a high school shop!  For a beginner, it's also OK, since you can make
whatever you want, and don't need to supply your own tools!  The instructors
aren't there to hold your hand, but they are always willing to help you out.

If your school board doesn't offer anything like this, try the local
college or community college.

-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
David Bingham           |  Phone: (613)763-3695  |  This space intentionally
Bell-Northern Research  |  Fax:   (613)765-4777  |  left blank.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: sgs8r@kelvin.seas.Virginia.EDU (Steve Strickland, sgs8r@virginia.edu)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Good stores or other WW attractions in SF Bay area (?)
Date: 16 Apr 92 23:02:33 GMT
Article-I.D.: murdoch.1992Apr16.230233.995
Distribution: ba
Organization: Dept. of Systems Eng., U.Va.

In article <4650@atlas.cs.nps.navy.mil> erickson@taurus.cs.nps.navy.mil (David Erickson) writes:
>
>I don't know where he finds the stuff, but his prices are what I would
>call moderate.  For example Delta HD shaper, $600, Delta 8" long bed
>jointer: $600, Jet 1 hp dust collector: $100 (these are the prices I
>paid Herb, not what he currently has available).
>

These prices are what I would call great (assuming the equipment is in good
shape). A new Delta 8" longbed is around $1200-$1400, and most of the other
prices seem roughly half of mail order. I'd go for it!
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: baud@eedsp.gatech.edu (Kurt Baudendistel)
Subject: Need Magazine Recommendations
Originator: baud@kepler.eedsp.gatech.edu
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1992 20:09:28 GMT

It is time to subscribe to some wood magazines. How about some reviews?
-- 
Kurt Baudendistel ---                                           --- GRA
Georgia Tech, School of Electrical Engineering, Atlanta, GA  30332-0250
internet: baud@eedsp.gatech.edu              uucp: gatech!gt-eedsp!baud
From: rlb01@thdhub.homedepot.com (Ron Bogumil)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Ryobi BT 3000-Best for the $$-Where to buy?
Date: 10 Apr 92 20:38:53 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: The Home Depot, Inc.


In article <1992Apr3.144251.17262@nsisrv.gsfc.nasa.gov>, tim@intrepid.gsfc.nasa.gov (Tim Seiss) writes:
 + The Home Depot and Hechinger's Home Project Center in Glen Burnie, MD have
 + the BT-3000 for $489, I think.  Seems to me that I read in this newsgroup
 + a few weeks ago about someone who bought the saw and metal stand together
 + at Home Depot and got a 5% discount.  Not positive about that, though.
 + 
 + I think there's a Home Depot in Alexandria or Arlington.
 + 
 + Tim Seiss


I called the Home Depot store in Glen Burnie, MD and the BT-3000 is $497.00
and the stand is $67.00, thats $567.00 total. This is a correction and not
an advertisement.
-- 

Ron Bogumil Sr. Systems Programmer | "Where to Captain?" "Second star on the
The Home Depot, Inc.               |  right, and straight on 'til morning."
UUCP:	...!uunet!thdhub!rlb01   |                            Star Trek VI
-- 

Ron Bogumil Sr. Systems Programmer | "Where to Captain?" "Second star on the
The Home Depot, Inc.               |  right, and straight on 'til morning."
UUCP:	...!uunet!thdhub!rlb01   |                            Star Trek VI
From: wilson@schaefer.math.wisc.edu (Bob Wilson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: What to look for when buying a used Table Saw?
Date: 9 Apr 92 00:50:32 GMT
Reply-To: wilson@schaefer.UUCP (Bob Wilson)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Univ. of Wisconsin Dept. of Mathematics

In article <16507@ulysses.att.com> smb@ulysses.att.com (Steven Bellovin) writes:
>In article <ktp9hgINNilb@news.bbn.com>, tlaughli@star-trek.bbn.com (Tom Laughlin) writes:
>
>In most situations, direct drive is probably better.  You get increased
>depth of cut, and probably less wobble.
(deletions)
I think this is wrong. In earlier discussions there was pretty much
agreement that direct drive generally gave LESS depth of cut, since
the diameter of the motor is surely greater than the diameter of a
pulley, so a belt driven arbor can be raised up closer to the bottom
of the table. As to the wobble, I suppose the longer distance
typically between motor bearings than between arbor bearings might
support that (pun partially intended) but either can be essentially
perfect: Wobble in fact comes from poor machining, not from either of
these designs. There is one saw design which confuses the depth of cut
issue: the beltless Delta that isn't really direct drive but uses
gears to put the motor axis below the arbor axis. But then, it
probably has no more distance between the arbor bearings than a belt
drive, so you would lose on the wobble if this were really the cause.
Note that essentially all of the best known cabinet saws use a belt
drive, frequently with several parallel belts: The Unisaw, the
Powermatic 66, the General, as well as the various Taiwanese clones of
those machines. (The tilt-table Incas are surely fine machines too but
so idiosyncratic as to defy comparison to the mainstream... No that
isn't meant as a flame or other insult, just to say they are very
different!)
Bob Wilson
wilson@math.wisc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: richer@HQ.Ileaf.COM (Al Richer)
Subject: Sliding table refit...
Reply-To: richer@HQ.Ileaf.COM (Al Richer)
Organization: Interleaf, Inc.
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 92 12:16:26 GMT

 Last weekend, I had the pleasure of inheriting a Sears 10", belt-driven
tablesaw built when Sears built good tools. As I presently own a radial-arm
saw, I really don't have a place in my shop for both. I was wondering if
anyone had seen (or heard of) an aftermarket sliding table like the ones
presently available on the new Ryobi precision cutting system.

 Yes, I am aware I can build a sliding table cover from plywood and lock
it into the table slots, but I'd prefer something a little more permanent..

Also, does anyone have any recommendations for a good aftermarket blade guard?
the idiot who owned this saw before (my brother.. 8*)  ) took off the blade
guard and threw it away, and I don't think Sears is going to have parts in
stock for this old codger...

						Thanks,

						  ajr

-- 
_________________________________________________________
 Alan J. Richer              Mail:  richer@hq.ileaf.com
 Interleaf, Inc.             All std. disclaimers apply 			
 9 Hillside Ave.                  Your mileage may vary 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mwb5y@uvacs.cs.Virginia.EDU (Mark Bailey)
Subject: Re: Designing bookcases.
Organization: University of Virginia Computer Science Department
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 13:09:12 GMT

Use it for what it was intended: put books in it. It doesn't matter
what you back the thing with, noone will ever know!
-- 
---
Mark Bailey				mwb5y@virginia.edu
Computer Science Department		..uunet!virginia!mwb5y
Thornton Hall
University of Virginia
Charlottesville, VA 22903
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: majewski@spsd4360a.erim.org (Ron Majewski)
Subject: For Sale: Brad Point Drill set
Organization: Environmental Research Institute of Michigan, Ann Arbor, Michigan
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1992 17:17:43 GMT


For Sale: ShopSmith 14 piece brad point drill set & case
          3/16in through 1in -- 1/16in increments
          Excellent condition
          A few years old, but unused (found buried in garage)

     Why: An inheritance that duplicates what I now have

  Asking: $100, including UPS COD shipping to your doorstep

 Contact: Ron Majewski
	  majewski@erim.org    (313) 994-1200 x2480 (days)

          Thank you!
--

Ron Majewski (majewski@erim.org)

The Environmental Research Institute of Michigan
From: STEVE.BUSSELL@OFFICE.WANG.COM ("Steve Bussell")
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re:New Yankee Fence
Date: 14 Apr 92 21:09:12 GMT
Article-I.D.: tuna.199204142011.AA26386
Organization: Mail to News Gateway

In response to the question about which type of fence is used on the New
Yankee Workshop.  Its not an Excalibar, I believe its a Biesemeyer.
Great fence, I wish I had the money for one of those.

Steve Bussell
From: erickson@atlas.cs.nps.navy.mil (David Erickson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Good stores or other WW attractions in SF Bay area (?)
Date: 16 Apr 92 20:36:02 GMT
Reply-To: erickson@taurus.cs.nps.navy.mil (David Erickson)
Distribution: ba
Organization: Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey CA

No visit to the Bay Area's woodworking attractions would be complete
without a visit to Herb Singleton's garage.  Anybody who answers ads
in the Chronicle or San Jose Mercury tool/machinery columns must have
spoken to Herb - he must have about two ads running simultaneously
all of the time.  Herb's garage is amazing - it must contain at least
50 pieces of equipment - drill presses, lathes, sanders, saws, milling
machines, accessories, vises, bandsaws, a 24" planer, you name it...  
Everything from museum relics to computerized turret lathes - and all of it 
for sale.  Herb also has a well-equipped machine shop out in back - if he
isn't too busy, ask to see it.

I don't know where he finds the stuff, but his prices are what I would
call moderate.  For example Delta HD shaper, $600, Delta 8" long bed
jointer: $600, Jet 1 hp dust collector: $100 (these are the prices I
paid Herb, not what he currently has available).

Be prepared to stop and talk for a while - Herb does like to talk.

Herb Singleton can be reached at (510) 846-0790.  He lives in Pleasanton.

-Dave Erickson
From: markw@hpcss01.cup.hp.com (Mark Williams)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1992 22:45:40 GMT
Subject: Re: How old is good!
Organization: Hewlett Packard, Cupertino