HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: dhepner@cup.hp.com (Dan Hepner)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: hardwood floor repair
Date: 27 Jan 93 23:54:49 GMT
Followup-To: rec.woodworking,misc.consumers.house
Organization: Hewlett-Packard
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8.2]


From: <Healy@space50.nrl.navy.mil>

>Thanks for the comments I've received on this (2 posts, 1 mail).  My
>house, built in 1908, has pine (heart) everywhere and no subflooring
>anywhere.  There are pieces missing from boards that previous owners
>have filled with something (Plastic Wood?) and then waxed over.  It
>looks real ugly.  I would like to replace the boards someday.  Is there
>an acceptable way to do this without subflooring?
>Liam Healy

Have you rejected the idea of using what you have as a subfloor?

Dan Hepner
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ricko@Data-IO.COM (Rick OBrien)
Subject: Will glue hold joint?
Organization: Data I/O Corporation
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 20:43:06 GMT

I'm planning on building some raised panel doors for kitchen cabinets, the
largest of which would be about 28 inches by 18 inches.

My question is on how to connect the rails and stiles to ensure a strong 
joint. Currently, I'm planning on getting a rail and stile set of router
bits to cut an ogee and a short (about 1/2 inch) stub tenon on the inside
of the rail with the complimentary mortise on the stile. I'll glue up the
joint and drive two brads into the tenon from the back of the door. This
appears to be how the non-custom cabinets I've seen in stores are made.

Will this joint be strong enough for normal use, or would a couple of dowels
in each joint be better?

By the way, the panel will NOT be glued in but will be allowed to float in
the dadoes in the frame. 

Rick O'Brien
From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1993 02:17:40 GMT
Subject: Re: Extension Table Laminate
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

kensmith@cs.Buffalo.EDU (Ken Smith) writes:

What's a good material to laminate on top of home-made table saw
extension tables?  Norm used a white laminate on his rolling shop
table that he said wood slides over easily (same stuff as on his
commercial extension tables I assume...) but he never said what
the material was.
----------
  
   Well, you can use either Formica or some other plastic laminate.
 
   I used Formica for mine.  Or, you can buy MDF that has already 
   had a coating of melamine applied.   

   Cost of a 4X8 sheet of non-post-forming Formica around here is
   about $70.00 retail.
From: richard@TIS.COM (Richard Clark)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Tool Quality, Was: Re: Vacuum hose reducers
Date: 22 Jan 93 16:48:36 GMT
Reply-To: richard@TIS.COM
Organization: Trusted Information Systems


In article <WOODWORK%93012210392008@IPFWVM.BITNET> you write:
>I am surprised anyone would admit to owning anything Sears after the
>beating I took a few weeks ago about my Sears tools.

	Wellllll.... actually, having been keeping an eye out for tools
of various sorts lately... I've come to the conclusion that nobody who
makes these tools actually *uses* them. Not a chance. Not just Sears mind
you, but Ryobi and (gasp!) Delta too. I have yet to see a damn table saw
that is easily and repeatably adjustable, has a decent fence, has a decent
mitre adjustment, has a decent safety guard, etc... same for other parts
on other types of power tools... They appear to be designed specificaly
for occaisional inconvenient use, and made ready-to-break. The truly
annoying thing is, that for $1.00 more in materials and some common sense
in design, they could build a perfectly wonderful useful machine that
would last for years and years.

	Flames to /dev/null...

	Richard "annoyed with the lack of quality" Clark.



-----------------------Relativity Schmelativity-----------------------------
 Richard H. Clark				My opinions are my own, and
 LUNATIK - watch for me on the road...		ought to be yours, but under
 It's not my fault... I voted PEROT!		no circumstances are they
 richard@tis.com				those of my company...
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM (Chip Coffin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Beisemeyer Fences/ Yellow Wheels / Aux Fen
Date: 23 Jan 1993 01:06:00 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Distribution: world
Reply-To: coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: surfin


I build an auxilary fence for my biesmeyer.  It works like a charm.

  ________________
||                ||
||      #1        ||
||________________||
||                ||
||                ||
||                ||
||                ||
||<-#5            ||
||                ||<-#4
||                ||
||                ||
||________________||
||                ||
||    #2          ||
||________________||
||||/          \||||
||||            ||||
||||   #3       ||||
||||\__________/||||

Parts: 

#3 : the original biesmeyer fence
#1, #2:  maple pieces exactly the width of the fence, by 1.5" by the length of the fence
#4, #5: Plywood facing, height as shown, length of maple.

The plywood is held to the maple with 1.5x8 or so flat head wood screws.  Counter bore, and don't use glue.

The Maple must be milled to the exact width of the biesmeyer fence, and be joined on all
faces.

If you do this right, the aux fence box fits snug over the beiesmeyer fence.  If it is
too loose, you can add some tightening screws on the lower right hand side.

I would expect the maple's width to be seasonal, but I made this when it was dry, and it's been
very wet lately, and it still fits nice and snug - it should only slide enough to get it on 
and off.

The height of this is arbitrary, but I made mine about 16" because that is the width of the
maple plywood I had.  I also milled a 3/4" slot on the left hand face so I could use my 
mitre gage - like it's a vertical table. 

Anyway, It took all of 45 minutes to make this thing, and it works like a charm.  I use it like
a vertical table for slotting the end of large panels.  

chip
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 22 Jan 1993 10:27:22 EDT
From:         CELLIS@BROCKVMA.BITNET
Subject:      Re: Vacuum hose reducers

On Fri, 22 Jan 1993 10:07:34 EST Bob Pelcovits said:
>I am looking for a source of vacuum hose reducers in particular to hook up the
>1 1/4" outlet of my miter saw with my Sears vac which is 2 1/4" or 2 1/2", I
>don't recall which. Sears does not appear to sell the necessary adapter.
>
Woodworking Unlimited (some 800 number - call 1-800-555-1212 and they will
give the number to you) has the adapter you need.  My shopsmith Dust system
uses that reducer, and they are the Shopsmith store.

***********************************************************************
Carlton Ellis                  *   BITNET CELLIS@BROCKVMA
Administrative Computing       *
State University of New York   *
College at Brockport           *
***********************************************************************
From: donne+@pitt.edu (Jeffrey D Donne)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Paste Wood Fillers
Date: 26 Jan 93 14:21:59 GMT
Organization: University of Pittsburgh


	I have been working with red oak, using a Wood-Kote brand of
paste wood filler to fill the open pores of the wood, which should
result in a nice smooth finish.  However, the results are not good,
as the pores do not appear to be filled, and what results is a 
whitish type of finish in the pores that can only be removed by sanding.

  	My question is, what is the proper technique for using paste
wood fillers, and does anyone have a preferred brand?  Also, do you
stain first, then use the paste fill?  And finally, what is a good
method of finishing after the stain/filler -- i.e should I use a tung
oil finish, a polyurethane, or what?

	Any and all comments are much appreciated.

Thanks --
Jeff D.

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,misc.consumers.house
From: guy@slustl.slu.edu (Guy Smith)
Subject: Re: Hardwood Floor repair
Keywords: hardwood floors
Organization: Saint Louis University  Saint Louis, MO
Distribution: rec
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 16:08:49 GMT

In article <1993Jan21.215016.11711@acuson.com> worth@acuson.com (Douglas Worth) writes:
>- One of the previous owners decided that they did not like part of 
>the hardwood floor and glued linoleum (sp?) down to it. What would be
>the best way to get it off?

The easiest way to get the linoleum up without damaging the underlying
wood is probably heat. A heat gun should work ok (be careful not to
overheat or you will scorch the underlying wood). I've heard of people
using irons for such things as lifting single tiles. You will then have
to remove the remaining adhesive. Methylene Chloride stripper will probably
be required and expect to refinish the wood underneath.

>expecting to replace some of the boards in this section. The floor is
>2" oak strip and I do not think that it is tongue and groove because
>there is lots of nails in it. Is it possible to do patch work like this
>or are we crazy? After we repair the damaged section we are planning to 

I can't speak to your sanity (I own an old house after all) but spot
replacement of strip flooring is certainly possible. Check back issues
of Old House Journal. It has been discussed there but I don't recall
the issue.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Power Hand-Planer Question (naive alert!) 
From: rcbi27@marshall.wvnet.edu (DBRUM)
Date: 26 Jan 93 19:38:39 -0500
Organization: Marshall University

In article <C1Gt1J.8F5@news.fai.com>, grina@news.fai.com (Peter Grina) writes:
> 
> Does anyone have any comments regarding hand-held planers (or is it "planes"?)
> that are powered with .4 or .5 hp motors?  The Sears prices range from
> about $70 to $150, and the regular old-fashioned(?) planes can easily surpass
> those prices.  What are the limits and capabilities of these hand-held power
> planers?  
> 
> Since the cutting action appears to be very similar to the jointers, can a
> hand-held power plane (fastened to a table) serve as a poor man's jointer?
> 
> 
> 				Pete Grina

Pete, I've got a Sears hand-held that I paid about $100 for a few years ago
to try and do what you suggest, especially for the purpose of flattening
wide, cupped boards that I was fond of working with at that time. It's no
good for flattening wide boards, you'd have to have the hand of a genie. But I
guess if you could construct a sufficient table-type thing to fasten the tool
to, you might be able to get some jointing mileage out of it. But building 
such a table would be quite a demanding feat, at least so it seems to me, but,
hey, that doesn't at all mean it couldn't be done!

Presently I have my Sears hand-held power planer mounted upside-down in a sort
of long wooden box, open along the top, for use as a sort of rough surface
planer. It saves a lot of effort in removing saw mill marks--boy, that's hard
work with a manual plane!!!! But, really, you'd be better off getting one of
those Sears benchtop planers that are only about $199  or $179 on sale. On
the hand-held planer you only have an infeed table about 2 1/2" long, so it's
really hard to accurately joint a board that's more than a foot or two in 
length. If you try a heavy piece of wood, say an ash two-by-four that's 8 or
10 feet long, it's perfectly impossible to hold the thing firmly and flatly
down against the tiny infeed ledge by mere finesse--I tried it once, for a
whole afternoon, and became exhausted. I did gradually manage to get the
saw mill marks off the ash 2-bys, but had to follow up with a belt sander to
remove all the erratic ups and downs left by the planer.

--

"I laughed one time and they
were on the phone to the Man."  --Cool Hand Luke
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: sak@geosc.psu.edu (Sridhar Anandakrishnan)
Subject: Plans for "triangular chair" wanted.
Organization: Geosciences Dept., Penn State Univ., University Park, PA, USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 15:06:13 GMT

Hi, I am looking for plans for those triangular chairs that were
backless.  Popular 10+ years ago.  You set your rump on a cushion near
the apex of the triangle (ouch! :-) ) and your knees rested on a
cushion near the floor.  Anybody know what I am talking about??

They were touted as good for posture and back problems.

Much appreciated.

Sridhar.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: NYW bashing; was 'HOMETIME'
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 20:54:31 GMT

kassover@rumsey.crd.ge.com (David Kassover) writes:
: 
: Some years ago, the lab I was working at received a calendar from
: a pneumatic fitting company, with "those kinds" of pictures in
: it.  One of the female persons in the labs took exception to it,
: and wrote to the company.  She got a letter from the model in
: question.  Seems this model is an engineer with this fitting
: company, the possessor of two Ph.D.s (talk about doubledomedness
: 8-), and appears in the calendars because she enjoys the
: modelling and the photography...

Yeah. I could never understand all this stupid prudery over exposing
the human body to view. I understand it even less for a picture. You
would think that we were born wearing clothes. 

Bill
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: wilson@schaefer.math.wisc.edu (Bob Wilson)
Subject: Re: NYW bashing; was 'HOMETIME'
Organization: Univ. of Wisconsin Dept. of Mathematics
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 93 15:24:28 GMT

norm@strobe.ATC.Olivetti.Com (Norm Carpenter x3055) writes:

>: 
>: He has, believe it or not, 9 routers in the New Yankee Workshop.
>: 
>: Draw your own conclusions.
>: 
>: Bill
>: (who wishes he had Norm's subsidies)

>I understand,  from a seminar he gave here,  that he gets his routers
>from the different companies for free (just so they can get their
>labels on TV).  He says he has so many now,  he doesn't ever change
>bits,  he just picks a different router off the shelf.

>Norm

>*******************************************************************************
>norm@oliveb.OLIVETTI.COM

>                 "Watch this space." -- Acme Advertising
While this may not be practical in our home shops, it isn't unusual in
production. There was an article in FWW a few years ago which showed
the shelves in a small cabinet shop which were FILLED with routers,
some even having bits the same size but fixed at different depths or
with different guide collars or ...
Bob Wilson
wilson@math.wisc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: frank@austin.ibm.com (F. Karner)
Subject: Re: Laminate Bond that Didn't
Originator: frank@karner.austin.ibm.com
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 20:35:59 GMT
Organization: IBM Advanced Workstation Division


In article <mlh1-220193101710@132.197.9.231>, mlh1@bunny.gte.com (Michael Hackney) writes:
> In article <1993Jan21.201450.7362@slustl.slu.edu>, guy@slustl.slu.edu (Guy
> Smith) wrote:
> > 
> > In article <8090025@hpfcdc.fc.hp.com> bennett@hpfcdc.fc.hp.com (Steve Bennett) writes:
> > >I recently applied a piece of plastic laminate to a small table top. For
> > >some reason (maybe the shop wasn't quite warm enough?), I didn't get a good
> > >bond on one of the edges. I can peal it back about a half inch along that side.
> > >
> > >What's the recommended technique to fix this sort of problem? Any suggestions
> > >would be gratefully accepted!
> > I had a similar problem with a commercially produced laminate counter.
> > As it was still under warranty, they came out and fixed it. They just
> > cleaned out the dried contact cement and injected yellow glue and clamped
> > it. Still ok one year later.
> 
> I've done this sort of repair too - but don't use yellow glue, the formica
> laminate is not porous enough to get a good bond. Use epoxy instead.
> Clamping is critical. I use a 3/4" plywood scrap several inches longer than
> the delamination and use as many clamps as you can get on it.

Epoxy works fine, but is probably overkill.  I've used a brand called
"Liquid nails" that is very sticky and requires minimum clamping, with
great success.  It is also very cheap to buy.  At HD, I've bought a
couple of cartridges packaged together, for use in a caulk gun, for less
than $3.00.
-- 

         DISCLAIMER: The opinions expressed in this posting are mine
            solely and do not represent my employer in any way.
       F. A. Karner AIX Technical Support | karner@austin.vnet.ibm.com
From: jcw1@Ra.MsState.Edu (Jeff C. Wilson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Hey! Lets have a survey....
Date: 26 Jan 93 14:36:45 GMT
Organization: Mississippi State University

Projects finished recently

1. turned some bowls from walnut for a friend.
2. turned some candle holders from peach.
3. turned 4 17" bowls from red gum.
4. built a wall cabnet bookcase unit along one wall
   in the house, made out of walnut, 10.5 feet long
    and 8 feet tall. the bottom is a cabnet with 8
    raised panel doors.

5. floor lamp turned from walnut, with a stained glass
    lamp shade.

almost fin

   a unit for tv vcr etc with doors that open and slide
     back into the cab.

just start

  make a stained glass window for a fromt door for friend.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Hey! Lets have a survey....
Summary: 
Expires: 
Followup-To: 
Distribution: 
Organization: Mississippi State University
Keywords: 

Projects finished recently

1. turned some bowls from walnut for a friend.
2. turned some candle holders from peach.
3. turned 4 17" bowls from red gum.
4. built a wall cabnet bookcase unit along one wall
   in the house, made out of walnut, 10.5 feet long
    and 8 feet tall. the bottom is a cabnet with 8
    raised panel doors.

5. floor lamp turned from walnut, with a stained glass
    lamp shade.

almost fin

   a unit for tv vcr etc with doors that open and slide
     back into the cab.

just start

  make a stained glass window for a fromt door for friend.
  make two sidelight and stained glass for them to match
  the front door.

hope to get my 93 woodchuck unit next week.

  make two sidelight and stained glass for them to match
  the front door.

hope to get my 93 woodchuck unit next week.

                                                                             
    mm      mm                                                       
   m  m    m  m         sss u     u    |########|
  m    m  m    m       s    u     u    |########| 
 m   o  mm  o   m     s     u  o  u    |########|   jcw1@ra.msstate.edu         
 m              m    s      u     u    |########| 
 m              m sss       uuuuuuu    |########| 
--
                                                                             
    mm      mm                                                       
   m  m    m  m         sss u     u    |########|
  m    m  m    m       s    u     u    |########| 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: EPLUS17@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu (Richard Engelbrecht-Wiggans)
Subject: Re: Anyone cut metal with a circular saw? (WARNING)
Organization: C.C.S.O.
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 02:57:25 GMT

In article <1k247bINNkds@gap.caltech.edu>
jack@ccsf.caltech.edu (Jack Stewart) writes:
 
>
>It is NEVER a good idea to use a tool for a purpose that it wasn't
>intended or designed for.  Most (i.e. average quality) circular saws
>are designed only for wood (some are really only adequate for soft
>wood).  The RPM, torque, and HP power on the average circular saw are
>wrong for metal.  Using the wrong tool for the job is what causes a
>lot of accidents.
>
>
>In article <16B5E12A88.EPLUS17@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu>, EPLUS17@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu (Richard Engelbrecht-Wiggans) writes:
>> Since then, I have invested in a more expensive
>> (Milwaukee) saw and it cuts through that angle
>> stock as if it were butter.  I am however concerned
>> about the possibility that all the particles
>> created by my metal cutting might have an adverse
>> affect on the saw's bearings etc; does anyone know?
>
>A good quality saw (such as a Milwaukee) should have sealed bearings
>so the damage shouldn't be too bad.  However does the air intake on
>the saw have filters?  If is doesn't then you could be spraying metal
>particles all over the motor.  Metal particles can also do a number on
>your lungs.  Most masks will do a reasonable job of protecting your
>lungs.  Ear Protection is also really good idea when cutting metal
>(Grinders are LOUD).
>
Hi, I'm the one who bought the Milwaukee saw above.  I agree that
it may not have been intended for metal working, by sometimes I
have projects for which nothing was designed.  For example, I need
a very big pot for a big (18 feet tall, 10x15' wide canopy) tree
in our 2 1/2 story solarium.  The local scrap dealer had a 38"
diameter double walled stainless kettle.  In testing for leaks, the
previous owner had over pressurized the thing and blown the inside
liner inside outish.  I got the 250 monster at 30 cents per pound,
took it home, and ran a cut around the outside layer just below the
rim to seperate the two pieces.  (The scrap yard took back the 130
pound inner peice at full credit, as we had agreed.)  I got a nice
stainless pot for the tree at under $50 including the cost of the
saw blades.
 
I used my circular saw to make the cut, and a belt sander to
smooth it (and a cutting torch to cut the other, few connections
between the two layers.)  What tools would you have used?
 
..Richard E+17
 
(Yes, I wear ear plugs, ear muffs, presciption glasses, goggles,
dust mask, etc, etc, and work on such projects outdoors on the
driveway so that there is plenty of ventilation.)
 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: billt@core.rose.hp.com (Bill Thomas)
Subject: Re: Hey! Lets have a survey....
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 18:03:19 GMT
Organization: HP - Systems Technology Division
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.8 PL6]

I have been trying to put a hidden compartment into each piece of furniture
I build.  Usually by make a drawer out of some part of the front (like a set
of small shallow shelves in a cabinet with lots of large shelves) which one
can easily open if you only knew where to pull.

Does anyone know of any sources of designs, plans, and ideas with hidden
compartments?

Sincerely,
Bill Thomas
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bds@mbunix.mitre.org (Smith)
Subject: Re: Small drum sanders
Organization: The MITRE Corporation, Bedford, MA
Distribution: rec.woodworking
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 14:33:39 GMT

In article <eStoller@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu.8@UIUC> eStoller@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu@UIUC (E.W. Stoller) writes:
>I am looking at purchasing a small drum-type sander for my shop. I am a 
>serious woodworker in my spare time and wouldn't use one full time.  I am 
>considering the Grizzly 24" double drum type, as it is within the price 
>range of woodworkers like myself, and looks like a good tool for the money.  
>Also under consideration would be the Grizzly (also Sunhill and others) 15" 
>model, which they say can sand boards up to 29" wide, the Woodmaster, the 
>Performax single and dual drum models, and perhaps others in equivalent 
>price ranges.
>
>Specifically, what kind of job do they do?  How successfully can a person so 
>some sand planning?  How good of job do they do in finish sanding?  How 
>difficult is it to change sandpaper?  Is there any trouble with snipe?  How 
>easy is it to adjust thickness accurately?  What size dust collector do you 
>need? Is it well designed to do the job and make necessary adjustments?  etc.
>

I saw the Woodmaster sander demoed a couple of years ago.  It works
extremely well, and if you're in the market for one of these you
should take a good look at it.  It has variable feed rates, and a
built in dust collector port (you need a pretty powerful dust
collector--I believe it is in the 1000-1200CFM range, and it's
required at extra cost).  With 36 grit paper you could plane with it,
but it's not really the same as planing since it doesn't give a cut
surface.  Changing sandpaper is simple since the drum is covered with
velcro, and you use 6" wide rolls of velcro backed paper.  I saw no
sign of snipe, and he sanded a few items, including raised panel doors
(make sure you use 3/4"stock for the rails and 5/8" for the panel, so
the panel and rails are the same height).  I was pretty impressed with
the unit.  I don't own any drum sander, and I haven't seen the others
you mentioned.