HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au (Paul Repacholi)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: night exposures for traffic
Date: 5 Oct 92 17:37:48 GMT
Article-I.D.: cc.1992Oct6.023748.1
Organization: Curtin University of Technology

In article <5360811@hplsla.hp.com>, andyc@hplsla.hp.com (Andy Cassino) writes:
> bson@gnu.ai.mit.edu (Jan Brittenson) writes:
>> 
>> In article <5360809@hplsla.hp.com> andyc@hplsla.hp.com (Andy Cassino) writes:
>> 
>>  > If you want to get going fast, try a roll of Fujichrome 50D or Velvia.
>> 
>>    I'd also recommend tungsten-balanced film. Most of the night light
>> comes from bulbs -- so do car lights. Using T film will give a much
>> more bluish appearance. It's also a good idea to experiment (or
>> bracket) with DM +/- 3 and DM +/- 6 filters (e.g. what some filter
>> manufacturers call KR3, KB3, KR6, KB6 or CR3, CB3, CR6, CB6 or some
>> such -- no idea what Wratten codes they would have though, the W.
>> codes are too arbitrary for me to memorize). Well, at least bracket
>> with a DM +3 and a DM -3.

Sorry to spoil the theory, but what the hell is a 'DM' filter?

> 
> I have some tungsten film in the fridge waiting to be tried. It appears
> to me that the reason to use tungsten film is because of the superior
> reciprocity characteristics.

Tungsten films are often designed for studio work, large format, long exposure,
small apature. IE VPS and VPL, guess what the 'S' and the 'L' stand for...

> Not that I am sure that extended reciprocity characteristics are a good
> thing. I have a theory that reciprocity failure can be quite helpful in 
> night photography, by preventing the build-up of excessive contrast. (I
> know I see no need to use masks for my Cibachromes of night scenes!)
> 
> Well, that's just conjecture.

Reciprocity effect in fact cause an increase in contrast. The low lights suffer
to a greater degree than the high lights. But in 'night scapes' this is often
OK or desired. For 'normal' photos in micro photon conditions it is a pain.

~Paul
From: jacobson@cello.hpl.hp.com (David Jacobson)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: LINEAR/CIRCULAR POLARISERS ON AF CAMERAS ??
Keywords: FILTERS, AF CAMERAS
Date: 4 Oct 92 01:51:29 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories

In article <1992Oct2.091237.49729@ccvax.ucd.ie> clissman@ccvax.ucd.ie writes:
>I have been told that AF cameras won't work with linear polarising filters and
>that (more expensive) circular polarisers are needed. 

This is true.  The problem is that the linear polarizer causes the
meter to misread and under just the right conditions can cause the AF
to not function.  No harm is done to the camera.

>I have an EOS 1000,
>called a Rebel in the US, and was told that if i fitted a linear polariser
>I would have to focus manually. But i got one for free, and the camera still
>seems to AF fine on the EF 38-80 zoom that came with it. 

Not too surprising.  My Nikon 8008 will AF with a linear polarizer,
even though the manual warns against it.  But the metering is off by
up to 2/3 of a stop.

>Am I doing harm to the
>camera using a linear filter, or am i being ripped off by dealers telling me
>stories to get me to buy circular polarisers. 

No and No.

>Incidentally, I got the filters to enhance contrast and color on Himalayan
>photos I intend to start taking next week, so a quick response, via email
>or posting, would be greatly appreciated.

If you are going all the way to he Himalayas, don't risk your pictures
for the price of a circular polarizer, especially if you are using
slide film.  Now, let me add, however, that you ought to make sure you
like the "polarizer look".  Don't just use a filter because you have
this vague feeling that professionals use them and so you had better
use one too.  A polarizer has very specific effects: namely, you can
rotate it to darken (or lighten) skys or to eliminate (or enhance)
specular reflections.  At high altitudes the skys are pretty dark
anyway.  Since you are leaving so soon, I don't think it is practical
for me to advise you to go try it out and see what you like.  Just
take some with it and some without it.

>By the way, could it be that the camera AF's OK but the pictures come out
>blurred ?

Not very likely.  I assume a Rebel has some way to telling you it
can't successfully focus.  If you don't get this negative response,
focus is ok.

>Yours in ignorance
>
>Ciaran
>	CLISSMAN@CCVAX.UCD.IE

  -- David Jacobson
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: hyunj@sage4c.its.rpi.edu (John Hyun)
Subject:  Want to buy B&W Darkroom Enlarger
Keywords: B&W, enlarger, darkroom
Reply-To: hyunj@rpi.edu
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY.
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 22:24:55 GMT

If anyone is interested in selling some of their B&W darkroom equipment,
from enlarger to reels to easel to tanks, please drop a line. Thanks.
-John
hyunj@rpi.edu
From: daved@hplsla.hp.com (Dave Dintenfass)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Gundlach Korona camera
Date: 28 Sep 92 20:16:13 GMT
Article-I.D.: hplsla.5360806
Organization: HP Lake Stevens, WA

I've found the best way to handle lensboards for wooden view
cameras is simply to make 'em.  You can get model-maker's
plywood at a hobby shop and simply glue together different 
pieces to build up the proper thickness.  If you can borrow
a router table and a router, you can cut the rabbeted edges
quickly and precisely (measure carefully and practice on a
scrap chunk of wood beforehand, of course :-).  Drill the
hole with a drill press and an adjustable circle cutter,
and you're there.  To finish, spray with ultra-flat black
paint.  I've built half a dozen lensboards over the years
in this fashion.

Don't forget that usually one edge of the lensboard is sanded
with a slight bevel; this is usually the bottom edge, which
you tip in first when mounting the board on the camera.

If you're into cabinetmaking and such, you can get small pieces
of mahogany or something and make an old-fashioned lensboard
(usually made with a bunch of different panels to discourage
warping).  However, this take a lot of skill and plywood actually
works just as well.

There are folks like Steven Shuart (in Pennsylvania) who advertise
in Shutterbug magazine who have lensboards for sale.  These guys
have fixtures and they will zip off a lensboard that's made from
plywood.  They work pretty well, though they're no more elaborate
than one you could make with a router table.  I used to buy lensboards
until I discovered how easy it was to roll my own.

The most difficult part is machining a retaining flange if the one for your
lens is missing.  Black ABS plastic actually works pretty well, though
the purist in me would prefer brass :-).

Have fun.

Dave Dintenfass
From: gary@wb9rxw.lonestar.org (Gary Partain)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Where to get a dateback for Minolta X-700
Date: 30 Sep 92 22:32:44 GMT
Organization: American Airlines - STIN

I'm a proud owner of an antiquated Minolta X-700. Now that I've had the
camera for years, I've suddenly decided that I can't live without one of
those backs that records the date and time on the negatives.  (I
procrastinate just a little....)  The problem, of course, is that no one
carries them anymore.  Has anyone seen one of these beasts lately, or
have a suggestion as to who I might call to find one?  Many thanks in
advance.

-- 
Gary Partain                 | Peter remained on friendly terms with
American Airlines, D/FW, TX  | Christ notwithstanding Christ's having
texsun!wb9rxw!gary           | healed his mother-in-law.
gary@wb9rxw.lonestar.org     |                      - Samuel Butler -
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: panlilio@acs.ucalgary.ca (Victor P. Panlilio)
Subject: Re: Former Nikon Owner Followup
Summary: Rubbing It In
Date: Tue, 06 Oct 92 15:40:07 GMT
Expires: Fri, 30 Oct 1992 04:00:00 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: The University of Calgary, Alberta
Keywords: Nikon
Followup-To: rec.photo

In article <1992Oct6.144250.23145@galileo.cc.rochester.edu> eugene@briar.lle.rochester.edu (Eugene Kowaluk) writes:

>Paul Repacholi writes:
>
>> Just a vapid thought, no one seems to have told Canon's
>> marketriods that 'elan' is a synonym for 'flair'.
>
>Oxford American Dictionary:
>
>flair, n. a natural ability to do something well or to select and recognize
>what is good or useful, etc.
>
>I'd better stop this before people think I have nothing better to do.
>
>eugene kowaluk

Hah! Too late! As for having nothing better to do...

I really have a problem with any manufacturer that puts plastic
in its lens mount...and that doesn't seal a camera well enough to
keep out dust or humidity, especially when that camera is highly
electronic. The Canon F-1 and F-1N were wonderful pro cameras,
but the EOS-1 just doesn't have the same quality feel to it,
especially compared with a Nikon F4. I know...I've tried both
cameras, and I much prefer the subjective feel of the Nikon. It
doesn't have anything to do with heft, either, it's just that
subjectively, I feel more vibration being transmitted to my hands
with the Canon than with the Nikon, and I DON'T like that at all.

Havig said that, I should note that in comparison tests it seems
that the new Nikon N90 autofocuses the new AF-I Nikkor 300mm 2.8
faster than the EOS-1 focuses its USM 300 2.8. (The pro shop
owner I talked with, who carries both full lines, claims this).

Just one Nikon aficionado's opinion...

Victor
From: dpc@eng.cam.ac.uk (D.P. Cryer)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Posting scanned pictures (was Re: Deniz_Tek.jpg (01/01))
Date: 1 Oct 92 13:44:59 GMT
Organization: cam.eng

In <1992Oct1.085419.15722@cs.joensuu.fi> jpehko@cs.joensuu.fi (Juha Pehkonen) writes:

>Since this is the first photo I've seen in this group it made me wonder
>why hasn't this been done before. I know there are newsgroups for
>GIFs and other formats (alt.binaries.pictures.*) but the pictures in
>those groups are in most cases scanned without permission (let's not start
>the copyright discussion over again). I'd like to see 'home-made' photos
>that were taken by the readers of this group. The photos could also
>contain useful information of the picture, such as exposure time, etc.

I agree that it would be nice to see some photographs from people
in rec.photo, even though the scanning and display process will
make them look somewhat different from the original print/slide.

>I know it's not a good idea to send those photos to this newsgroup, but
>using alt.binaries.pictures.* newsgroups wouldn't be a good idea either.
>So, if I'm just being ignorant and there already is a newsgroup for our
>photos, tell me. If not, let's create one. I personally think it would be
>a great idea. Opinions? 

I don't see any need for a new group. Instead I feel that the pictures
should be posted to alt.binaries.pictures.*, and a note
describing the pictures and giving all the necessary info posted to
rec.photo and whatever other groups may be interested.

I realise that not all sites carry the alt.* hierachy so maybe
an ftp site would be nice aswell (although not everyone can
ftp either). However I do think that images should NOT be
posted or cross-posted to rec.photo as this could be expensive
and inconvenient for those people getting NEWS over slow modem lines.

>Juha Pehkonen
>jpehko@cs.joensuu.fi
>University of Joensuu, Finland

David Cryer                              USENET: dpc@eng.cam.ac.uk
                                         JANET:  dpc@uk.ac.cam.eng

P.S. If anyone in the Cambridge (UK) area has access to a scanner at
a reasonable rate I'd be interested in hearing from you (16 shades
of gray doesn't do justice to even MY pictures! :-) ).
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: turini@gdls.CSCTMD.COM (Bill Turini - CSC @ GDLS)
Subject: Advice needed on Yosemite visit
Keywords: vacation photos Yosemite
Organization: Computer Sciences Corp. @ General Dynamics
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 13:00:47 GMT

This is directed mostly to folks living in California...

My wife and I are planning our second annual visit to Yosemite on the 21st
of October.  This is a bit later in the year than we have gone in the past, 
and I was wondering if anyone could give me any information on what the 
weather might be that time of year.  

I have kept track of previous posts on photo opportunities in Yosemite.
Any other information on photo opportunities would be appreciated.

We're hoping for some snow so that we can get some good photos.  My wife 
paints, and has me take photos for her to paint from. I got tired of her
asking me to take a photo of this and that last year, so I bought her a
Nikon 5005.  Now I can drag my 6x6 equipment around and take "real"
photos!  

Thanks for any help, and sorry that this post is not "totally" concerned
with photography.

Bill

+-----------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Bill Turini			           Chief, Technical Systems Support   |
|									      |
| Computer Sciences Corporation   		turini@gdls.csctmd.com	      |
| Technology Management Division					      |
| MZ 435-02-33		                                                      |
| 6000 E. 17 Mile Road                          (313) 825-8810 Voice          |
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|       "Doing the right thing is more important than doing it right."        |
|                            R. Wamsley, 1991                                 |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------------+

-- 
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Bill Turini			           Chief, Technical Systems Support   |
|									      |
| Computer Sciences Corporation   		turini@gdls.csctmd.com	      |
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: terryfry@access.digex.com (Terry Fry)
Subject: Re: night exposures for traffic
Organization: Express Access Online Communications, Greenbelt, Maryland USA
Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1992 20:45:33 GMT

In article <5360811@hplsla.hp.com> andyc@hplsla.hp.com (Andy Cassino) writes:
>I have some tungsten film in the fridge waiting to be tried. It appears
>to me that the reason to use tungsten film is because of the superior
>reciprocity characteristics. Or does tungsten film do a better job of
>rendering mercury and sodium-vapor lighting than daylight film? It seems 
>that little artificial lighting in the nightscape is tungsten lighting!

Its a matter of personal preference.  Tungsten film will not give a "red"
cast to any bright lights in the scene.  It looks, true to the nature
of the film, cooler in rendition and the colors look "correct".

As far as realisticly portraying anything at night, its just as inaccurate
as daylight film, its just that people (including me) think its just "looks"
natural.
From: rene@hardy.u.washington.edu (Rene Magritte)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: chromoskedaesik techniques
Date: 28 Sep 92 23:52:09 GMT
Article-I.D.: u.1992Sep28.235209.29551
Organization: University of Washington


 
 
 
  	I will post what I have figured out so far.   
  
	Use of S30 stabilizer acts as an inhibiting agent to exposure
-- it is effectively "fixer" of a sort.  Use of it is mandatory to
prevent the image from going black when using Dektol. 
 
	Activator seems the most responsible for creating metallic
sheens.   
   
  	Stabilizer will often create yellows, but not always.  I have
yet to figure out why it works sometimes and not others.  
 
	Dektol combined with stabilizer seems to create deep browns
when re-exposed. 
 
	Reds seems much easier to recreate with fiber based papers.   
 
 	I have absolutely no luck recreating his blues and greens, no
matter what I try.  High quality red-reds seem similarly elusive.   
  
 	Anyone elses conclusions are most welcome.  Those who have
attempted "duo-tone sabbitier" might have some useful insights...
From: sjm1@eng.cam.ac.uk (Stephen Mounsey)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: AGFA, Fuji, Kodak or ?
Date: 6 Oct 92 13:16:24 GMT
Organization: cam.eng

usenet@adobe.com (USENET NEWS) writes:

>This is hearsay, since I don't use Agfa film; but I've
>heard it said that Agfa's quality control isn't that good.

>Both Kodak and Fuji make excellent products, in my opinion.


For some time I used mostly Agfachrome CT200 since it has good colour
fidelity and reasonable grain for the speed (and the price was right).

Before this I used various Kodachromes (I really like the 200 version)
and Fujichromes (I hate them all). Until about 5 or so years ago Agfa 
was far too blue.

Unfortunately, most CT200 sold in the UK is process-paid and when Agfa
moved and "upgraded" their processing lab things really went to the dogs.

Now I use Agfachrome RS50 Plus (and sometimes RS100 Plus) which I consider
to be an entirely wonderful film. And I'm much more tripod-bound. I have
my processing done by a local professional lab (who are just as cheap
as anywhere, do it well and do it on the premises, so no more films lost
in the post).

RS200 is supposed to be good for its speed, but I might wait until they
bring out a Plus version.

The new CT100i has had good reviews, but I'll stick with the Professional
variants (especially to avoid that goddamned awful processing lab in Bury).

I have never had problems with quality control as far as the film itself
is concerned. Probably just a nasty rumour put about by Fuji and Kodak.

I can't speak for print films.

Give it a try - the green and yellow perils deserve some competition.

                              -Stephen.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: patrice@cs.concordia.ca (SCATTOLIN patrice)
Subject: Re: Chasseur d'Images address?
Organization: Computer Science, Concordia University, Montreal, Quebec
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 22:07:10 GMT

In article <1992Oct04.060722.15317@truevision.com> frank@truevision.com (Frank Loffel) writes:
>Hello
>
>Could some kind soul please repost or email the address of
>"Chasseur d'Images"?. FAX number?
>

  Mail is :

	Chasseur D'image
	La Petite Motte
	86100 Senille
	France

  Minitel:

	3615 PHOTIM

There is supposed to be a way to send mail to minitel from internet in the
us. This would probably be better. 


	Phone:
		(16) 49-85-49-86	(Abonnement)
		(16) 49-85-49-99	(fax)


P
P
P
P
P
P
		(16)

-- 
Patrice Scattolin
					patrice@cs.concordia.ca
Concordia University			Montreal, Canada
"I am so far north that Santa lives two blocks from me"
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: steveh@pilot.dmg.ml.com (Steve Hannoford)
Subject: Re:  Receiving free Nikon Magazine
Organization: Merrill Lynch Debt Markets Group
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 17:54:25 GMT

I got my issue when I bought my camera several years ago.
I think it takes a month or two for them to get you into
 their database, onto the mailing list, and actually get
 you a copy - It's frustrating, but you might give them
 3 months to get their act in gear.
As you may know, a great way to scam a magazine out of 
 3 or 4 issues is to subscribe, and them cancel when you
 receive the bill.  It takes them 3-4 months to cancel you
 out of the subscriber list - and in the mean time, you 
 receive the magazines gratis.  I don't reccommend this as
 a matter of ethical practice...
Anyway, hang in their on the Nikon magazine.  It's just one
 big Nikon ad anyway.  I can't imagine that they actually 
 would try to get away with not sending you the copy they
 promised, afterall, its an ad to entice you into buying
 more Nikon equipment and accessories.

-- 

+-------------------------+--------------------------------------+
| steveh@pilot.dmg.ml.com | My employer has no opinions and has  |
| Steveh Hannaford        |  nothing to do with anything I say.  |
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: rene@hardy.u.washington.edu (Rene Magritte)
Subject: Re: Continuous-tone with Kodalith?
Organization: University of Washington
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 01:29:42 GMT

monta@image.mit.edu (Peter Monta) writes:

>I have some leftover Kodalith (in 35mm and 4x5), and I'm wondering if
>it can be used for pictorial applications.  Are there low-contrast
>developers, along the lines of those used for Tech Pan, that would
>be suitable?

>I'm also curious to see how natural scenes look:  Kodalith is
>orthochromatic, and this makes pretty startling portraits, judging
>by the old photos I've seen.

>Peter Monta   monta@image.mit.edu
>MIT Advanced Television Research Program


	Dektol works great for this kind of thing.  Dilute it from 1:3
to 1:15, guess you'll have to experiment.  I think that Kodalith is
ASA rated at 4.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: rbhank@wsl.dec.com (Ron Bhanukitsiri)
Subject: Re: Your opinion on Pentax PZ-10 needed
Reply-To: rbhank@wsl.dec.com (Ron Bhanukitsiri)
Organization: DEC Western Software Lab
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 92 23:20:55 GMT


In article <1ash26INNq9o@zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu>, yyh@osustat.mps.ohio-state.edu (Yu-Yun Ho) writes:

|> Dear netters:
|> 
|> I joined this news group about 3 weeks ago when I bought my first SLR
|> camera. It's a Pentax PZ-10 with a fully automatic 28mm f3.5 - 80mm f4.7 
|> zoom lens. 
|> I've seen a lot of disscussion on Nikon and Canon SLR's,
|> but never have I seen any body talked about Pentax on the net,
|> which made me loose confidence in my new camera thinking that perhaps
|> I had made a wrong decision. 
|> I ordered a FA 100-300mm zoom lens and some other accessories from B&H
|> last week, and they are expected to arrive any day now.
|> Is my PZ-10 good enough for me to invest a large amount of money
|> on it? So far, I've spent about $900 on it.
|> 
|> Any opinion from you is highly appreciated.
|> 
|> Yuyun
|> 
|> ********************************************************
|> * Yuyun Ho                                             *
|> * Department of Statistics, The Ohio State University  *
|> * yyh@osustat.mps.ohio-state.edu                       *
|> *                                                      *
|> ******************************************************** 

Well, the answer is it depends.  Do you like the PZ-10?  Does it help you
get "the job done"?  Do you like the feel of it?  Is the controls easy to
use?  Does Pentax have lenses and accessories that satisfy your need?  

While Pentax has lenses that cover most used range, Canon, Nikon and Minolta
clearly do a better job.  For example, Pentax doesn't have a 20mm AF lens!

I like the feel of the Pentax and have spent "large amount of money" on it
without any regrets.  I also know that its quality and endurance will serve
me for a long time to come.

Ron B[ee]
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: acs@csri.toronto.edu (Alvin Chia-Hua Shih)
Subject: Re: Hyperfocal distances
Keywords: lens, depth of field, hyperfocal
Date: 6 Oct 92 02:27:16 GMT

Maybe it would be better if someone posted a chart/graph for DOF and
hyperfocal distances for various film formats?

ACS
-- 
 ___ ___ ___ ______________________________________________________________
|   |   | __|      Democracy is not a way of getting better solutions.     |
| - | --|__ |           It's just a way to spread the blame.               |
|_|_|___|___|______________________________________________________________|
Alvin_C._Shih____________________acs@csri.utoronto.ca______________________|
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: goldis@news.weeg.uiowa.edu (Al Goldis)
Subject: pushing Velvia (was problem with Velvia)
Organization: University of Iowa, Iowa City, IA, USA
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 21:06:52 GMT

In <PHILG.92Sep14124622@zug.ai.mit.edu> philg@zurich.ai.mit.edu (Philip Greenspun) writes:
>In article <29364@sophia.inria.fr> luong@naxos.inria.fr (Quang-Tuan Luong) writes:
>   Two questions:

>   1. I shot an important roll of Velvia at 80 asa. Should I have it
>    processed normaly, or should I ask for a push-processing ?

>Push it 2/3 of a stop.  Velvia is designed to be pushed up to 1 stop
>(2 stops begins to look a little lurid).

How does Velvia behave when pushed one stop?  As contrasty as it
is already, does it get out control?
--
Al Goldis           alan-goldis@uiowa.edu
"Pictures are moments truth, touched by light, that show character."
                          --Annie Griffiths-Belt
Newsgroups: rec.photo