HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: bell@pooh.cs.unc.edu (Andrew Bell)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Software Patterns
Date: 11 Oct 92 22:38:20 GMT
Followup-To: bell@cc.gatech.edu
Distribution: usa
Organization: The University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill


Hi folks, long time no see...  I got a job in Atlanta and had to move.

Anyway, here's my question:  Have any of you heard of Dress Shop, a 
software program put out by Living Soft, Inc.?  If so, would you 
please email me as to what you know about it, what it costs beyond
the initial $100 for the software, and whether you like it [for those
who have tried it].

Please email me at:  bell@cc.gatech.edu
as I don't always get on the net at work [the EPA is rather funny about
computer access; they haven't decided whether they like it yet or not].

Oh -- I should mention that this software allows you to put in 13
of your measurements and then allows you to select from 29 different
patterns, then prints out a pattern adjusted to the individual's size.
Reminds me of one last question:  Can you put in sizes for more thanb
[than] one person [assuming one person at a time]?

Thanks so much!

Leslie Bell
Office of Regional Counsel, US EPA
bell@cc.gatech.edu
From: mary@UICSL.CSL.UIUC.EDU ("Mary E. Allison")
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: The attack of the killer bolts
Date: 7 Oct 92 15:11:06 GMT


george@webb.psych.ufl.edu (Stephanie George) writes:

>Well, I went into Wal-Mart Saturday to buy ONE SPOOL OF BROWN THREAD. 
>When suddenly, these three *HUGE* bolts of simply divine velveteen
>tackled me, snatched my purse and held my checkbook to my head and
>held me captive.  I was overwhelmed.........

DARN - I missed the first posting on this.

All I can say is don't you just hate it when that happens.  And THEN
nobody BELIEVES you.  Well, you're just lucky you have us to talk to.
WE believe you.  Well, I know *I* believe you because it happens to me
all the time.

(And to think all those people in the WalMart and NONE of them noticed
this poor person getting attached by fabric).

-- 
I have more fun than people.
  -- Bugs Bunny

    Mary Allison (mary@uicsl.csl.uiuc.edu) Urbana, Illinois
Catx2 Owned, Square Dancer, Leaper, Ballroom Dancer in training 
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: HF.MMX@forsythe.stanford.edu (Marilee Marshall)
Subject: Re: Giving Up On Clothes
Organization: Stanford University, California, USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 15:16:13 GMT

Dear Frances,

Sounds like your quilting time is par.  Yes, the rate will pick up,
but 3 hours isn't too bad either.  If the time required makes you
nervous, I would suggest going to machine piecing.  For quilts that
I don't care a whole lot about, I often piece by machine.  On the
otherhand, I have a little better idea on how long a project will
take (from experience), and if I'm really going to commit myself to
something wonderful, I do it by hand (traditional craftsmanship
concept).  Some more difficult patterns can't really be done well by
machine (IMHO).

It sounds to me like maybe quilting won't be compatible.  Why not
start out with one block at a time... make it into a potholder. Or
do 4 and make a pillow, or a small lap quilt.  See how it goes.
Sometimes, mentally committing to one block at a time is more
comfortable than looking at the originally conceived goal.

Good luck.  The idea is to enjoy the process.  If you don't... drop
it and try tatting.

marilee
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: dbsander@rodan.acs.syr.edu (Diane B Sanderson)
Subject: Re: Fabriholics: my story
Organization: Syracuse University
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 92 10:34:05 EDT


Stephanie George--you have made my day!  Too bad I have to work (frown).
Thank you for reaching into my life in the fabric department and putting
it joyfully in words.  I want to go buy the rest of the velveteen at
my Wal-Mart.  Hope everyone else enjoyed it too.
Diane Sanderson
sanderson@suhep.phy.syr.edu
From: aqn@panix.com (Andrew Nguyen)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: My new blazer:  Lining question...
Date: 11 Oct 92 05:22:15 GMT
Organization: PANIX Public Access Unix & Internet, NYC

psburns@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov (MAUREEN BURNS) writes:
>Anyway, down to my lining question.  Early in the construction of the
>lining, the instructions say to baste a 1.5" fold down the vertical length of
>the back, taking stiches about 2 inches in the middle, top and bottom.
>This "pleat" is then pressed to one side, and basted to the seam allowances
>at the top and bottom.  (Is this clear?  Really, what it looks like is just
>a center seam, pressed to one side.)  I figured it was just to provide some
>extra room in the lining when the whole thing was done.  The thing is,
>there never is any instructions about removing the basting stiches.  Is
>this intentional?

aviva@ultra.com (Aviva Garrett) wrote:
>Yes, these "x" stitches stay in. I've made several lined
>jackets, from Vogue patterns, and they all have this pleat. I
>don't really know why it's there, except to provide some ease.
>I'm willing to bet if you look at a well-made commercial jacket,
>you'll find the same stitches.

I'm afraid you'd loose the bet!  The pleat is intended to provide some
ease in wearing.  I know what Maureen meant by explicit instructions to
remove the basting stitches being missing.  I've never seen such instructions
neither!  Perhaps the mere mention of "basting" is supposed to mean "remove
eventually."

However, I must say that of the three (men's) jacket that I've made,
I've removed those stitches from only one of them!  Usually, by the time
the jacket is ready to be worn, I couldn't be bothered with a seemingly
trivial detail like openning up that pleat.

Depending on the fit of the jacket, you may or may not be able to get away
with leaving the pleat closed.  On my jackets (a Vogue Perry Ellis pattern)
the fit is fairly tailored, so there is some pull on the pleat.  In
Maureen's case, it may not make a difference.

-- 
Andy Nguyen / Team Paranoid       ...!uunet!panix!aqn  OR  aqn@panix.com
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: fran@Cadence.COM (Fran Peterson)
Subject: Re: cheaper buttons?
Organization: Cadence Design Systems, Inc.
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 16:56:43 GMT

In article <Sep.23.12.36.48.1992.13248@presto.ig.com> charleen@presto.ig.com (Charleen Bunjiovianna) writes:
>
>I got a *big* bag of buttons for pennies at the Pendleton Woolen mills outlet
>in Washington.  Local to the Bay Area, the Jessica McClintock outlet does this
>as well, and until the Farr-West lingerie outlet closed recently, ditto.
>
>Charleen
>

Another store with wonderful cheap buttons is San Jose Fabrics on The
Alameda at Stockton St. in, of course, San Jose.  I buy buttons there for
$0.50-$0.75 each that in most stores cost $2.85 for a card of 2. They also
have some good buys on fabrics.  It's an unusual, to say the least, store
but I sure save a lot of money and get a great selection of fabrics.

But, where is Jessica McClintocks' outlet?  I've seen it referenced her
several times and would love to go but can't seem to find it.

Thanks for sharing!

I don't need a comedian to keep me in stitches!

F [:)
From: ron.parker@uttsbbs.uucp (Ron Parker) 
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: one of a kind silk...
Date: 11 Oct 92 11:57:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: The Transfer Station BBS, Danville, CA - 510-837-4610/837-5591
Reply-To: ron.parker@uttsbbs.uucp (Ron Parker) 

      on   Fri, 2 Oct 1992  fred@cc.ysu.edu (Fred Ullom) wrote:    
  
FU > No, Miriam, I haven't heard of fuller's earth and I suspect many on this   
FU > group haven't either. Would you care to educate us instead of chastise
FU > us? please quote your sources.

fuller's earth is an absorbent clay, generally of the montmorillionite
family.  It is used to absorb grease from other materials, especially
fabrics.  It is also used in the petroleum industry as a filter material.
The name derives from its use by fullers - technicians who 'fulled'
cloth, meaning raising the nap on a woven fabric.  The name fuller's
teasel for spiny pods of the teasel plant comes from the same root.  The
teasels were used to pull up the nap on cloth.  As for a source, I guess
it is me.  I'm a mineralogist and fiber fancier.  You should be able to
look up fuller's earth in any heavy duty descriptive mineralogy text, and
for fullers and fulling, try a history of weaving and fabric manufacture.
BTW, you can buy fuller's earth at any old fashioned drugstore.  It is very
effective at cleaning grease spots from clothing carpets etc.  Just rub it on
dry or dampen the fabric with some cleaning fluid then rub it on.  Let dry,
and vacuum clean the dry powder away.

ron.parker%uttsbbs%boo@pacbell.com  (Ron Parker)
---
 . JABBER v1.1 #21 . Fibernet BBS, Henning, MN 218-583-4337
From: gorman@acsu.buffalo.edu (Anne-Marie K. Gorman)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: Height of sewing table and sewing room design
Date: 10 Oct 92 03:38:47 GMT
Organization: UB

I wrote:

>In article <1992Oct2.223803.15887@StarConn.com> sallyh@StarConn.com (Sally Holmes) writes:
>>It says that the bed of the sewing machine should be about 30" off the
>>ground, which means the table top should be 26" - 28" off the ground.
>
>No, no, no!  The height of the work surface depends on the size of the 
>...

I just want to apologize for the tone of my post.  I didn't mean to 
sound peevish, or to scold Sally, who was just reporting something 
she'd read.  I'm sorry, especially because this is normally such a
friendly newsgroup.

Anne-Marie
-- 
===============================================================================
Anne-Marie K. Gorman          Sophie and Teresa (9 1/2 months old) are walking!
Human factors/ergonomics      Time flies twice as fast when you're having
University at Buffalo         twice as much fun.
From: Marina.Salume@Corp.Sun.COM (Marina Salume)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: sewing machines
Date: 15 Oct 92 20:18:22 GMT


>Brand to avoid:  SINGER !!  They quit making durable quality machines in 
>the 1950's.  Good brands today: Viking, Bernina, Pfaff.

I agree on Singer. My dealer showed me his back room filled with
Singers needing repairs, he said "If you want to buy one, go ahead.
I make a lot of money repairing them." :-)

Add New Home and Elna to the list of good brands today. All these
companies make electronic as well as "mechanical" (non-electronic)
machines, all have excellent warranties, service and parts are not
hard to find almost anywhere, etc. Most dealers specialize, and
sell one or two brands, so you'll probably need to go to several
dealers to see them all. it's worth it to do some research because
prices vary WIDELY. (what a Bernina costs in one store may be several
hundred $$ more than it costs at another store, same exact machine. It's
a lot like buying a car, be prepared to bargain.)

--marina
From: karen@misty.boeing.com (Karen Robinson)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: Hello from a newbie
Date: 14 Oct 92 18:11:32 GMT
Organization: Boeing Commercial Airplane BCS Support

Brand to avoid:  SINGER !!  They quit making durable quality machines in 
the 1950's.  Good brands today: Viking, Bernina, Pfaff. :wq
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: fran@Cadence.COM (Fran Peterson)
Subject: Re: Goodwill stores as a source - was Fabriholics Anon
Organization: Cadence Design Systems, Inc.
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 23:55:04 GMT

In article <0105009A.en9e89@david.roth-music.com> delena@roth-music.com (Delena E. Roth) writes:
>
>In article <1992Sep23.164251.5871@Cadence.COM> (alt.sewing), fran@Cadence.COM (Fran Peterson) writes:
>
>
>All right -- where did you find chain on a spool?
>

Hancock Fabric Warehouse, San Jose, Campbell & Santa Clara, Calif.  Also try
hobby stores or arts & crafts stores like Lee Wards, Michaels, etc.  I also
have seen it in the catalogs I get for making jewelry.  

Hope this helps.
>I have looked in a couple of thrift stores to "cannibalize" off old
>purses, but I didn't find anything useful.  I'll keep looking, though.
>
>Delena
>  
>

Sometimes I have to look long and hard but it generally pays off.  
yesterday I went to one of my favor stores and just decided to walk 
around to see what I could see.  And there on the top shelf of a rack
of blouses was a Judith Miller purse with a GREAT chain.  The chain
was only connected to one side of the purse but it was all there.  All
47 inches of it.  And the price was only $2.99.  It was the extra 
heavy chain so I figured new retail it was probably worth about $5-6.

The other important thing is that it was not with the rest of the 
purses.  I figured someone was going to buy it and then changed their
mind (silly silly person) and didn't want to put it back where they
got it so they just put it anywhere to get it out of their hands.  So
you've got to keep a sharp eye out for finding "hidden treasures" 
hidden anywhere.

Don't give up you never know what you'll find!

>Good idea on zippers, too.
>

Thanks.

F [:)

I don't need a comedian to keep me in stitches.


Newsgroups: alt.sewing,rec.crafts.textiles
From: fran@Cadence.COM (Fran Peterson)
Subject: Re: coat making:  any advice?
Organization: Cadence Design Systems, Inc.
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 15:43:45 GMT

In article <w_8nq_r.cowpatti@netcom.com> cowpatti@netcom.com (Patricia Mae Anthony) writes:
>
>I always recommend to everybody I know that they don't NEVER take any
>advice from any fabric stores clerks.  period.  They are not trained.
>They don't know about fibres.  They don't know about interfacings.
>They don't know how to sew.  Don't listen to them.
>
>Talk to somebody at a sewing school, or somebody with experience making
>coats, or an established dressmaker/tailor with a good reputation.
>Check out their work.  It's worth it to pay them a consultation fee to 
>ask questions.  
>
>Persoanlly, I don't like fusible interfacing very much, except for
>casual sportswear.  I just can't figure how any kind of glue is going
>to allow two fabrics to move together the way they should.  But that's
>just my personal opinion, and my own personal taste.
>
>Cowpatti
>
>
>-- 
>
It sounds like you've had some bad luck with fabric sales clerks.  It's 
really to bad.  I, on the other hand, have had extremely good luck with
clerks at the New York Fabrics in my area.  I have been to lots of fabric
stores where I wasn't so lucky.  But on the whole the clerks at big name
stores seem to be well educated and/or trained.  When I find a clerk in
a particular store that is a great help I always seek her out when I shop.
I was really forunate with one in particular she was from Europe and boy
does she know her stuff.  There are many named stores in my area, House
of Fabrics, Fabricland, etc., tha good and bad.  But that's true in any
kind of business.

Your suggestions for other informational sources is excellent.  Another
source is your local Jr. College or Adult Education instructors.  One of
the best classes I ever took was tailoring at Adult Education.  The
instructor was from Paris and her list of credits were longer than my
arm (about a yard long).  I choose to make a wool suit and to top it
off took a cashmere overcoat of my ex-husbands and restyle down to fit
me.  When she got thru with me it was hard to tell (except for the 
difference in the material) which was the outside and which was the 
inside.  

Also joining a sewing club affords you all sorts of information sources.
This group is GREAT but there are just some things that, I personally)
can't explain in writing.

But bottom line, keep looking til you find someone that works for you.
They're out there, you just have to keep looking.

Happy stitching everyone.

F [ : )

Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: morrison@cup.hp.com (Bobbie_Morrison)
Subject: The Science of Ironing
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 16:41:27 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]


Hi.  Does anybody know of any good, comprehensive books on ironing?
I know this might sound kind of funny, but I think there are alot of 
nuances and tricks that I don't know.  For instance, once Threads had
an article on the tricks of ironing gabardine.  Now maybe gabardine is
a really tricky fabric to iron, but I'll bet there are others too.

All I really know about ironing is that you have to use the correct temp
for the fabric, and you are supposed to use an ironing cloth (although
I don't always.)

What about all of those special ironing gadgets?  How do you iron 
corduroy? (or don't you...)  How do you keep ironed fabric from being 
shiny .. or leaving the seam allowance imprint..... etc...

So has anybody ever seen a good book on this?  Thanks for any info.

--Bobbie Morrison
  Hewlett-Packard
  Cupertino, CA

  morrison@cup.hp.com
Newsgroups: alt.sewing,rec.crafts.textiles
From: charleen@ADS.COM (Charleen Bunjiovianna)
Subject: Re: coat making:  any advice?
Organization: The Original Estrogen-Crazed Lust Bunnies
Distribution: ba
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 21:07:56 GMT

In article <1992Oct9.154345.19406@Cadence.COM> fran@Cadence.COM (Fran Peterson) writes:
>
>It sounds like you've had some bad luck with fabric sales clerks.  It's 
>really to bad.  I, on the other hand, have had extremely good luck with
>clerks at the New York Fabrics in my area.  I have been to lots of fabric
>stores where I wasn't so lucky.  But on the whole the clerks at big name
>stores seem to be well educated and/or trained.  When I find a clerk in
>a particular store that is a great help I always seek her out when I shop.
>I was really forunate with one in particular she was from Europe and boy
>does she know her stuff.  There are many named stores in my area, House
>of Fabrics, Fabricland, etc., tha good and bad.  But that's true in any
>kind of business.

I've been shopping around for an alternate main source for fabrics.
New York Fabrics went right in the toilet after their takeover and remodeling.
I can never find what I want there.  Surprisingly, Hancock Fabric Warehouse
in Sunnyvale has cleaned up their act (and their store) quite a bit, so much
that I now feel comfortable shopping there.  And the prices are quite good.
Fabricland in Cupertino is my court of second resort, though I really don't
like their combination cutting/clerk/cashier/gotta-write-every-little-notion
up system.

I was in The Upstairs Gallery in downtown Sunnyvale last week, and noticed
some sparkly earrings made by a Fran Peterson...is that you?

Charleen

--
I stayed up all night playing poker with tarot cards.  I got a full
house and four people died.
                -- Steven Wright
Newsgroups: alt.sewing,rec.crafts.textiles
From: MAHE@YaleVM.YCC.Yale.Edu
Subject: Re: sewing armhole in Norwegian sweater
Organization: Yale University
Date: Fri, 09 Oct 92 15:52:52 EDT

If you sweater is wool (good point...), the reinforcing stiches are
just that - reinforcing.  In fact, I think they're mostly psychologically
reinforcing, designed to keep people who've just spent who knows how
many months working on a beautiful piece of work from fainting after
they cut into it.  In fact, Elizabeth Zimmermann's instructions
specify that you should sit down and catch your breath the first
few times :-).
If you are really worried about the whole thing coming apart, one
of my books recommends un-plying a length of the main sweater yarn
and using it to whipstitch loosely over the little stub that
remains after you pick up the stitches and knit in your ribbing or
sleeves.  The first washing will felt the edge enough that you'll
never really have to worry about it coming apart, even if you left
the raw edge hanging.
 
Marie-Christine
mahe-marie-christine@yale.edu
From: mwaugh@utkvx1.utk.edu (marcie)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Please help with serger problem
Date: 14 Oct 92 13:23:00 GMT
Organization: University of Tennessee Computing Center
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

My apologies if this post made it on, but I don't think it did...
My first attempt at making sweatpants on my new serger was instructive, but
a relative disaster! Help! (please...?) The side seams went in great, but the
ribbing and elastic waist stretched WAAAAY out. The ribbing was attached at the
ankle by dividing evenly in fourths, pinning, and putting right sides together
I sergered the two pieces together, stretching the ribbing to fit as I went
along (flat method). The waist was put in by serging the elastic (1-in. waist-
band) to the top edge and then folding both the fabric and elastic down so that
the elastic was in the middle. I then topstitched 1/8 in. from the lower edge
of the elastic (on my regular machine). (The elastic was divided and stretched
similar to the ribbing). Before construction, the pieces fit properly, but
required about 4 inches being removed from the waist to keeep them up! I
suspect the stitch length may have been too short and as a result the
stretched things stabilized in the stretched position... any ideas and advice?
Thanks much...in advance...! BTW I don't have differential feed.	
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
888*********88888********88888********88888********88888********88888******8888
	Marcie                             email : mwaugh@utkvx3.utk.edu  
888*********88888********88888********88888********88888********88888******8888
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: ron.parker@uttsbbs.uucp (Ron Parker) 
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Quilting Bee Prices Reduc
Date: 11 Oct 92 13:37:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: The Transfer Station BBS, Danville, CA - 510-837-4610/837-5591
Reply-To: ron.parker@uttsbbs.uucp (Ron Parker) 

 on 5 Oct 92 sallyh@StarConn.com (Sally Holmes) wrote:    
  
SH . P.S. I've tried to limit the distribution of this article to the Bay   
SH . area. It'll be interesting to see where it gets to...

It got to Minnesota, and I'll echo it to anyone who reads my usenet
messages, so who knows where it'll end up.  I have users in Europe,
Africa, Japan, and New Zealand.  I should add that my Internet gateway is
in the greater SF Bay Area even though I am in rural MN.

ron.parker%uttsbbs%boo@pacbell.com (Ron Parker)
---
 . JABBER v1.1 #21 . Fibernet BBS, Henning, MN 218-583-4337
                                                             
Newsgroups: alt.sewing