From: dgolber@aero.org (Dave Golber)
Subject: Re: clarinet arcana
Organization: The Aerospace Corporation
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 15:35:19 GMT

Hi, Jack.  Dave Golber here.

>I came back from my holiday with 

(I hope not with obscure and hard-to-cure myterious oriental diseases)

>two instruments:
>
>- a Turkish G folk clarinet bought in Istanbul (buying this was premeditated)
>
>- a Czech C clarinet bought in Prague (an impulse buy, not yet in playable
>  order; it looked basically good and the price was right)
>
I was raised playing classical music on Boehm system.  Made the switch to
ethnic music (more ego satisfaction, cuter groupies), and I now play 
almost 100% a C Boehm instrument I got for $800, plus a lot of money for
a very expert overhaul.  I play the C because (1) it wails better, and
(2) it's a lot lighter.  (When you may not play regularly, and then want
to play a long set standing up and sticking the instrument in the dancers'
ears, weight turns out to be important.  The C is a LOT lighter than an A.)

I tried Albert system.  Got my hands on some GOOD Albert instruments (A & Bb),
but the differences in the fingerings drove me crazy.  Not the places
where the fingerings are  COMPLETELY different, but the places where
they are SLIGHTLY different.  For example, the three holes on the right hand
are spaced slightly differently!  Sold 'em again.

>
>My main idea was to play folk music on these things, for which those
>pitches are more appropriate than the usual B flat or A.  I might get
>interested in trying jazz and blues as well.  I've never played the
>clarinet before but am fairly happy with the speed of results I'm getting
>with the Turkish instrument.  I'm learning to read at pitch, since
>transposing makes no sense for folk music of either the Celtic or Turkish
>variety.  

A curious juxtaposition.  I'm not sure what READING has to do with folk music.

In any case, all clarinet players learn to read "at pitch", since the
music is written for a transposing instrument.  That is, the music is
already transposed.  A clarinet player doesn't learn to "transpose" as
a matter of course.  What one doesn't always learn is to read a C part
(eg: a violin part) and play it on Bb clarinet and be in unison with
the violinist reading the same part.


But mostly you just play in the key that's right for the instrument you're
playing.  That's the nice thing about folk music.

>
>- Neither instrument has the full set of keys a modern Boehm instrument does,
>  and the Turkish one has some minor incompatibilities.  I have figured out
>  the first three octaves but have no idea what to try for the extreme high
>  register; it feels like it ought to be there if I knew the appropriate
>  fingerings.  Is there a book about mutant clarinet designs that might help?
>  (Since books on the Boehm system *almost* describe both instruments, I
>  assume that neither is an Albert model, but I've never seen a description
>  of the Albert system).

Take them to a well-experienced old-grouch instrument dealer.  He may
be able to put a name on the fingering system.  Go deep into the
library.

I saw some modern German-made Albert system instruments in a music
store here.  (That guy tried everything!)  The store owner said they
were made for the Turkish market!  I tried them out, but didn't like
the quality.

The thing I'd very seriously advise you:  Take them to a repairman and
do everything he advises.  The point is that if some of the pads don't close 
the holes completely (for example) the instrument will speak hard, squeak,
and so on.  As a beginner, you  wouldn't know whether it was you or the
instrument.  It's well worth it.

It's been a while since I had work done, but my guess is:  If the
instruments are in good shape otherwise (no cracks, for example) and
just need new pads and adjustment, a top-notch job would probably be
between $100 and $200 (US).  I'm sure it can be found cheaper, too.

>
>- I've seen a standard B flat clarinet for sale second-hand: a Boosey and
>  Hawkes 400, for 250 pounds (= about 400 US dollars).  It looks worth it;
>  certainly far better made than any student model (wood, with nickel-
>  silver keys and ferrules, and a very nice action).  It's tempting to have
>  something normal as well as the mutants.  What does this model go for new,
>  and how good is it?
>
Sounds a bit high for used, to me.  The big question is state: cracks?
Adjustment?  Pads?  Remember that a good overhaul will set you back $$ -
I'd guess at least $100.  If you buy something new, the dealer should
put it in shape for you.  If you buy it from a really reputable dealer,
that is.  You might try to find out where the local orchestra people take
their woodwinds.

But if it's a current model, you can certainly find out the current 
price for the instrument new.  Top-of-the-line stuff (Buffet, etc)
was about $1000 (but I'm not current on prices at all.)

Switching back and forth between Albert and Boehm, as a beginner, sounds
like a sure recipe for madness.  Ditto as a non-beginner.  But that's just
my opinion.  I'm sure there a people who do it just like .. that.

Good luck, 

Dave Golber