HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: kar@cs.rit.edu (Kenneth A Reek)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: bad experience with FotoCell
Date: 29 Jul 92 01:46:20 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology, Rochester, NY

In article <CLEV.92Jul28111026@lager.cisco.com> clev@cisco.com (Robert Clevenger) writes:
>The fine print of Popular Photography's "Check Rated" Program gives
>the following guidelines.  I have used these guidelines (in the order
>that I list them) in the past and got decent service.
>  [10 guidelines deleted]
>There are other tips in the magazine, too numerous to mention here.

	Yes, I have used these guidelines in the past (specifically, Smile
Photo, famous [with me anyway] for never selling anything at the advertised
price).  But wait a minute -- we're talking about guidelines to protect you
from dishonest merchants.  I find that I am happier dealing with a company
that gives me honest service from the start, even if it ends up costing a
few extra bucks (and I can't be sure of this, because the sleaze artists
never give their real prices in their ads).  Would that such "guidelines"
were not needed at all.

	BTW, Margaret reordered the binoculars Monday from Adorama, our
current favored outfit.  I fully expect them to arrive by Thursday, and will
let you know if all does not go well.
--
Kenneth A. Reek				kar@cs.rit.edu
Rochester Institute of Technology	rutgers!rochester!rit!kar
From: andyc@hplsla.hp.com (Andy Cassino)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 23:30:14 GMT
Subject: Re: Yashica T4
Organization: HP Lake Stevens, WA
Newsgroups: rec.photo

| >
| >But, you should know, the Olympus Stylus has a poor repair record. They have
| >a great propensity for jamming when the camera is closed.
| >
| 
| Could we have some details on this, such as who says they are prone to
| "jamming" and what do you mean by "jamming" What jams?
| 
|                              -Stephen Walker
|                               Penn State University
| ----------

The Stylus has a sliding lens cover. The lens retracts when when sliding this
cover closed. Apparently, many people are capable of closing the case fast
enough that the lens doesn't retract soon enough and the case jams against
the lens. If done with enough force, a service technician is required to
un-jam the whole thing, at a cost approaching the cost of the camera.

I learned this *after* I purchased my T4, after the transaction was complete
and the camera was in the bag. The saleperson said, well, now I can show 
you this. He got out a Stylus and showed me just how easy they are to 
jam (though he did it with a light touch so no damage was done). He said 
they have taken back many Stylus' within the first couple of weeks due 
to this problem... and now they are very happy to have the T4 to recommend 
for people interested in a Stylus, because it cannot jam in this manner.

(Having dealt with this shop for a number of years, I am personally satisfied
that they are on the level and there's no reason to doubt what they had to
say on this matter.)


    %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
    % Andy Cassino                                       %
    % Hewlett-Packard - Lake Stevens Instrument Division %
    %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: ka1gt@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (robert.m.atkins)
Subject: Phoney Press credentials (was IFPO)
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 22:21:33 GMT

The following may be of interest on this subject. It is a quote from
"PHOTOGRAPHER'S MARKET 1992" and is included in the chapter on photographic
ethics:

"Phoney press credentials:

Some begining professional and amateur photographers are not content with
gradually earning credibility or assignments from photo editors for acccess
to controlled events. They try to "scam" their way into sporting events,
political meetings and press conferences by having fake or forged credentials
or by posing as someone they're not. Sadly there are organizations which
actually will provide photographers with such phoney credentials - diplomas
cettificates and press cards - for a nominal charge. Such forgery is frowned
upon in the news profession and will only discredit a photographer among
photo editors and other news professionals."

Some have asked how do you start out (Catch-22). Well, there are lots of
local newsworthy events which do not require press passes. If you take good
and interesting pictures you can send them to local newspapers and magazines.
That way you can gradually establish credibility. It may be a long, slow road,
but in the end it will get you further than a phoney press pass.
===============================================================
Bob Atkins  AT&T Bell Labs  email (direct)  att!clockwise!rma
===============================================================
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: dp@world.std.com (Jeff DelPapa)
Subject: Re: Registering equipment with US Customs
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 03:48:19 GMT

In article <1992Jul29.195001.12602@philabs.philips.com> hyw@philabs.philips.com (Huay-Yong Wang) writes:
>My wife and I are planning to go for a month long vacation
>overseas. As usual, we are hauling lots of camera equipment
>(Mamiya 645 Super and Canon EOS systems) along with us and
>we wonder what are the steps needed to take so that we don't
>get hassled by the US customs on our way back into USofA.
>Is there a procedure for one to register camera equipment with
>the US customs? Comments and advise will be greatly appreciated.

Prepare a list of all the equipment, with serial numbers, and take the
list and the equipment to your local customs office [if nothing else,
there will be one at the international departure airport] They have a
small and simple form - you may have to copy the list, some agents
will let you staple it to the form. They have never asked me to see
the equipment, but you are supposed to have it available for
inspection.  It should take only a few min to do this, but is usually
takes some time to actually find the office, get the agents attention,
etc.. so try to do it in advance, rather than when changing planes.
You only have to do it once for a given heap of equipment, you can
then use the forms for any future trips...

Since it is now usually much cheaper to buy the stuff in this country,
they don't seem that concerned with a heap of camera gear.. [on my
last trip to japan, I wandered into a used camera shop - I wish I had
had my whole 35mm system with me - even assuming a 100% markup on the
dealers part, I could have unloaded the whole setup and yielded enough
cash to buy a brand new set of replacements when I returned home...]

<dp>
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: pd@sics.se (Per Danielsson)
Subject: Re: spotting red-eye on prints
Organization: Swedish Institute of Computer Science
	<1992Jul19.030430.4012@unlinfo.unl.edu>
	<1992Jul20.070818.12683@jpl-devvax.jpl.nasa.gov>
	<1992Jul20.190616.25271@news.iastate.edu>
	<1992Jul22.174252.5632@nntpd.lkg.dec.com>
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 08:03:55 GMT

In article <1992Jul22.174252.5632@nntpd.lkg.dec.com> swatko@airbag.enet.dec.com (Mike Swatko) writes:

>In article <1992Jul20.190616.25271@news.iastate.edu>, bipin@iastate.edu (Bipin K Dalmia) writes:
>>>I've used a very sharp black marker on both 4x6" and 8x12" glossy prints, 
>>
>>wouldn't a green marker be better than a black for RED eye?? any
>>fine-art buffs out there? 

>What's the point of using a green marker?  If you going for the
>Red + Green = black theorty, why not just use a black marker in the first
>place?

Yes, if you want black, use black. If you want green, use green.
You're not mixing colors here, you're hiding the underlying layer with
a completely opaque layer on top.
--
Per Danielsson				pd@sics.se
Swedish Institute of Computer Science, PO Box 1263, S-164 28 KISTA, SWEDEN
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: tls@solbourne.com (Tom Schreur)
Subject: EV units
Organization: Solbourne Computer, Inc.
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 21:11:10 GMT

Howdy,

Could someone help to refresh my memory.  

It is my understanding that EV is a measure of light, not related in anyway
to ASA/ISO (ie. for a given EV the exposure will change as one changes the
ASA on a light meter).  

The reason I'm asking is I have an OLD Vivitar light meter.  When this meter
is set to EV 1 the exposure reading is always 1 sec. @ f 1.0 no matter what
the ASA setting.  I believe this is wrong.  Or is it ME that is confussed?

thanks.

tls

tls@solbourne.com
From: yangchen@iris.usc.edu (Yang Chen)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: 6006 and lithium batteries
Date: 22 Jul 1992 10:11:42 -0700
Organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA
NNTP-Posting-Host: iris.usc.edu

After reading all the bad stories about the flashes of 6006s sucking
lithium batteries, I become cautious to all Li battery powered cameras.
But almost all the modern Canon line of cameras use 2CR5 (many have
built in flashes too), yet no body has complained about batteries being
drained. So to all the Canon owners out their, what the battery life time
can I expect to get if I only use it to shoot family photos occasionally?
I don't want to put in $20 every 6 months just to keep the camera running.
Thanks for any input.

Yang
From: feldman@hal9k.cxo.dec.com (james feldman)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Enlarger light sources
Date: 24 Jul 92 16:25:46 GMT
Reply-To: feldman@hal9k.cxo.dec.com (james feldman)
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation

In article <1992Jul23.224125.5816@u.washington.edu>, rene@hardy.u.washington.edu (Rene Magritte) writes:
|>I have an old Omega D2 with Omegalite coldlite head.    What does this
|>do to me if I am working with multicontrast papers?   Or (god forbid)
|>if I should attempt to do color work with  this?    Presumably, there
|>should be a way to filter the light enough to cancel the blue-green
|>cast to the light....   

I seem to remember something about using a CC30Y as a starting place for MG.  I
think color would be a nightmare.
--
My opinions and ideas are, in fact, not mine at all, but the property of
Digital Equipment Corp. (provided they relate to computers).  Opinions I may
have concerning other subjects are not really mine either, but are the product
of the environment I have been exposed to.  Thus, I am totally without
responsibility for anything I may say or do.
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 14:03:06 EDT
From: <SPW103@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Photo batteries vs. Watch Batteries
 <PHR.92Jul22171548@soda.berkeley.edu>

In article <PHR.92Jul22171548@soda.berkeley.edu>, phr@soda.berkeley.edu (Paul
Rubin) says:
>
>I believe the cheaper of those batteries is alkaline and the more
>expensive one is silver oxide.  The silver oxide one should last
>a little longer.  I have been using the Duracell 1/3N lithiums
>in my Nikon FM and FG20 bodies with no trouble.

(I'm the original poster)  I went and checked the store again today.  The
battery names are D303/357 and MS76. I was unsure of these before.  They
_both_ say that they are silver batteries on the package.  The only difference
seems to be that the D303/357 ($1.69) is marked as a "Watch/Calculator"
battery, and the MS76 ($3.50) is marked "Photo/Electronic"
    Most people have replied to tell me that the cheaper one must be alkaline,
but this is not the case.

                            Stephen Walker
From: bjs@uts.amdahl.com (Barry Sherman)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Schneider and Rodenstock lenses
Keywords: lens quality
Date: 24 Jul 92 19:40:29 GMT
Followup-To: rec.photo
Distribution: na
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

I wrote:
-------

> Not any more!  One of the un-niceties about the Mido film holder system is
> that there's no dark slide.

and Andrew Koenig responded:
---------------------------

>Hm... I ordered a bunch of those once and sent 'em back because they
>looked too flimsy to work in practice.  Was I mistaken?

I don't know for sure!  My personal judgement was that they seemed
sturdy enough.  They *do* flap around a fair amount and the plastic's
quite thin, but I have developed some respect for the strength of
plastic materials and decided that it looked pretty tough.  My main 
worry is that the welds that hold them together might separate, since
they do flop around a bit, thereby stressing the welds.

Time will tell.  Fear not, there'll be an immediate warning posting if
I have trouble with them!  And if they do hold up then I'll post
occasional notes to that effect.

As I've said in previous postings, I think that conventional holders
are *much* nicer to use.  If they just didn't weigh and bulk so 
much ...

Barry (guinea pig) Sherman

-- 


|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Barry Sherman, Amdahl Corp.       | "Any fool can face a crisis - it's     | 
| bjs@ruts.ccc.amdahl.com           |  this day-to-day living that wears you |
|                                   |  out." - Anton Chekhov                 |
|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Amdahl, being a corporation, is a legal fiction.  Therefore it is incapable|
| of holding, let alone expressing, opinions.  Unfortunately, this has been  |
| said of me as well.                                                        |
|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: phg+@CS.CMU.EDU (Paul Gleichauf)
Subject: Re: New Nikon Equipments
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 92 15:03:19 GMT
Organization: Carnegie Mellon University

	There has been along standing rumor about an F5 for more than a year
without substantiation.  The only scheduled Nikon 35 mm camera for release
that has been announced is the Nikonos RS underwater camera line.
	The lens line with the built in motors are long high speed high cost
telephotos.  Officiallly these are a 300 2.8 and 600 f4.  There has been
consistent talk about an additional 400mm lens.  Although there are prototypes
of these lenses in release to select sports photographers at the Olympics, the
first orders are not at present scheduled to be filled until early next spring.
All of these motor-in-lens models can only be used with the F4 camera line, which
has additional contacts for motor power.  You can count these when looking 
down the throat of the F4 and other camera bodies.  Up until the introduction
of these new lenses all current generation Nikon AF lenses use a motor in the
camera body for autofocus operation and a mechanical coupling through the lens
mount.  Expect to pay in the neighborhood of $4000 for the 300 mm and more for
each additional millemeter.  There is a one page brochure available from
1-800-NIKONUS that describes the nice AF manual override and lock and the 
specifications.

							Paul
From: phr@soda.berkeley.edu (Paul Rubin)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Toting a tripod?
Date: 31 Jul 92 10:58:18
Organization: CSUA/UCB
NNTP-Posting-Host: soda.berkeley.edu
In-reply-to: huw@castle.ed.ac.uk's message of 31 Jul 92 12:29:32 GMT

    Well that all depends on what kind of a strap you use. I use an old
    leather belt which I modified to fit onto either a Benbo Mk. 1 or
    a Manf. 055. That didn't cost me anything. Also, the slings that
    mountaineers use on their ice axes can be pressed into service as
    a shoulder sling for a tripod, and they are usually quite cheap.

If you're going to use a strap to carry a tripod (or other heavy
object), I highly recommend the neoprene (stretchy) kind made
by Tamrac and others.  They say it makes the camera (tripod, etc.)
feel half as heavy and they are not kidding.  It is a tremendous
improvement.  Obviously when you are standing still it makes no
difference, even though it still feels like it does because it
spreads the force more evenly over your shoulder than a normal strap,
but when you are walking, the difference is fantastic.  It took
me a while to figure out why: remember force = mass * acceleration, 
and the stretchiness absorbs any unevenness in your gait, cutting
the acceleration (and therefore the force) way down.

Stretchy straps are great.  I recommend them for any camera heavier
than a point and shoot.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: rmcgrath589@kean.ucs.mun.ca
Subject: KIEV 88/CAMBRON?
Organization: Memorial University. St.John's Nfld, Canada
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1992 16:43:13 GMT

I am curious about the medium format SLRs offered by Cambrige (sp?) 
Photo in New York. It is my understanding that they are Russian 
cameras with the name plates replaced with Cambrige's brand name 
Cambron. Are these cameras Kiev 88 s? or are they something else.
As these are supposed to be Hasselblad copies, are the lens mounts the 
same? Are they good dependable cameras? Are the optics good.
I read last months Shutterbug and they gave the Kiev 60, similar to 
the Pentax 6X7, a good review. All responses and advice welcome. 
Thanks in advance, Ray


Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: hyw@philabs.philips.com (Huay-Yong Wang)
Subject: Registering equipment with US Customs
Organization: Philips Laboratories, Briarcliff, New York
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 19:50:01 GMT

My wife and I are planning to go for a month long vacation
overseas. As usual, we are hauling lots of camera equipment
(Mamiya 645 Super and Canon EOS systems) along with us and
we wonder what are the steps needed to take so that we don't
get hassled by the US customs on our way back into USofA.
Is there a procedure for one to register camera equipment with
the US customs? Comments and advise will be greatly appreciated.

Regards,
Huay-Yong
From: tse@ra.nrl.navy.mil (Anthony Tse)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: E-6 temp control, and Hobby-Pac
Date: 27 Jul 92 23:08:48 GMT
Organization: Naval Research Labratory, Washington, DC

=The 'hobby'-anything will be more tollerant of process variations than lab
=formulations. The closer the temp control, the better. 2 deg in 5 min would be
=a bit much for E-6 I feel. Use a water bath. A foam cooler is just the shot,
=and not too big. there have been a few posts regarding cutting E-6 chem to
=smaller sizes. general opinion seems to be that "Hobby-Pac" is pretty cruddy.


	A 10 gallon fish tank with a good aquarium heater makes a great
tempering box for $20.  That's how I did my E-6 before I got the Jobo.

-Anthony
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: hpb@hpb.cis.pitt.edu (Harry Bloomberg)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: NIKON AF LENS. How to Choose.. ?
Keywords: AF 35-135mm. NIKON. Zoom. LENSES
Date: 29 Jul 92 18:33:40 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: University of Pittsburgh

In article <lakhindr.712431257@denali.NSD.3Com.COM> lakhindr@ESD.3Com.COM (Lakhinder Walia) writes:
>I have bought a Nikon AF 35-135mm Zoom f3.5-4.5 lens.
>I would like to have some kind of quantative analysis of
>where this lens stands as compared to other nikon lenses--
>whether zoom or fixed, which lie somewhere in the range 
>this lens offers: 35-135mm. I have had this lens for about 
>3 weeks. I have no experience with other Nikon lenses.
>
   Take a look at this month's Popular Photography.  They reviewed and
tested the lens and found it to be extremely sharp - "Commendable" was
their comment.  Minuses were size and weight, and macro function at 35
mm.  My personal experience jives exactly with Pop Photo.

>
>Basically I am trying to find whether to keep this lens or
>buy some other nikon lenses. Why..?
>   I dont want to keep a lens which is not going to give back
>   its worth. I dont mind buying an expensive good lens.
>What are the guidelines -- exhorbitant prices of course, and
>my interests-listed below.

   It all depends upon the kind of photography you do.  If your only
need is to produce 3x5 prints of family events, this lens is overkill.
Save the money and buy a non-Nikon lens.  However, if you want to make
large prints, or be published, this lens is excellent.

   I personally love this lens; it fits my requirements nicely.
However, there's no lens that is perfect for everybody.  What you need
to do is carefully decide your goals and specify your requirements.
Only then can you select the right lens for you.
>
>Would you suggest some other combination of lenses ? What are
>the pros & cons. 
>
   Nikon makes a 35-70 F2.8 that's pretty nice, but also large and
heavy.  They also make 28-85 F3.5-4.5, 28-70 F3.5-4.5 and a 35-105
F3.5-4.5.

Harry Bloomberg
hpb@vms.cis.pitt.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: hsong@ardour.bellcore.com
Subject: Re: ENLARGING 35mm/Med.format/other
Reply-To: hsong@ardour.bellcore.com
Organization: Bellcore
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 92 15:49:45 GMT

In article <1992Jul29.134934.10995@linus.mitre.org>, val@mitre.org (Colin Valentine) writes:
|> In article <1992Jul28.222507.303@walter.bellcore.com>, hsong@ardour.bellcore.com writes:
|> > 
|> > Reconsider 6x9cm.  Usual professional labs do not carry 6x9 negative
|> > carriers.  If you can find a lab with a 6x9 neg carrier, they will charge
|> > you more since they consider its printing is a custom job.  It may be OK
|> > for enlargement jobs, since enlargement is already a custom job.
|> 
|> Use contact proofs, NOT machine prints for 6x9.  8 negatives fit on one 8x10
|> sheet, and its normally cheaper than GOOD machine proofs.  And you are right,
|> no problems for custom print jobs (they can always use glass 4x5 carrier).
|> 
|> Colin

Contact prints are just 56mm x 8?mm in size.  They are even smaller than
regular 3.5 x 5 inch  prints for 35mm's.  And I do not like those
small prints in my album.  I do not want to reprint most of them later
as a custom order, either.
BTW, does a glass 4x5 carrier require multi-coated glass material to be
fair?   We are concerned about coating in the filter glasses in front of 
our lenses.  I think that the glass 4x5 carrier should also be multi-
coated to maintain purist's standard, shouldn't it?
With all things considered, I wish I had my own enlarger with a slightly
longer-focal-length enlarging lens and a 6x9 carrier.   I am going to 
send my negs to Fuji Anaheim Color Laboratory, and let them do justice 
on those 6x9 sizes, and I will find out how well they balance the colors
in addition to the size problem.

	Hugh
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: alix@indetech.com (Alexandria North)
Subject: Re: SB-24/wedding (Re: AF/AE vs. Manual aka All That Jazz) 
Organization: Independence Technologies, Inc. Fremont, CA
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 18:28:57 GMT

In article <9!gm26b.hchong@netcom.com> hchong@netcom.com (Hoi Chong) writes:
>From article <22583@oasys.dt.navy.mil>, by goldberg@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Mark Goldberg):
>> I had a recent job to photograph an 1-year old child and her parents.
>> I used a photojournalistic approach, rather than the stiff portrait
>> studio approach.  She was at play with a Little Tykes car.  I used the
>> 8008s with SB-24 flash in the 1-stop-under fill mode for some shots
>> with my 180mm AF ED lens.  Others were done with the 300mm F4 ED AF.
>> EVERY SHOT was properly expopsed and focussed - all 37!
>
>I was going to start a new thread about possibly buying SB-24, but since
>you already mentioned SB-24...
>
>What is the current price for S -24?  CWOO wants $254 (the same old
>"have stock (until they get your order)" but I am afraid they might call
>back and say check-and-found-no-stock).  I called Los Gatos Photo and
>they want only $249 (no stock, one or 2 week), but, was there some negative
>story about the shop in the past?  (OK, I will stay away from SJ Photo).
>LZ Premium don't have stock and do not know when it will come in.

I bought my 8008s, SB-24 and two lenses through Los Gatos Camera, because
they would meet San Jose Camera's prices and because they *weren't* San 
Jose Camera! I had no problems with Los Gatos Camera. When I bought the 8008s
body and the lenses, they were out of the SB-24 and said it would be a week 
before it came in. As it turned out, the SB-24 arrived the next weekday. 
I was very pleased.

Alexandria
-- 
-----------------------------------------------------------
"Babies, babies, babies. Why did God make so many babies?
 But no, God didn't make them. Stupid people made them."
      -- Margaret Mitchell, Gone With The Wind
Newsgroups: rec.photo