HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: milo@dorm.rutgers.edu (james mielo)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: I NEED ISOBARIC BOX HELP
Date: 11 Nov 92 02:42:36 GMT
Followup-To: rec.audio.car
Organization: rutgers university


					I need help in building an isobaric enclosure, however , this
enclosure is unlike any that I've seen previously. Usually, an isobaric
enclosure is made to decrease the Vas parameter and allow a smaller
enclosure to be used. What makes my box concept different is that there is
no second enclosure to load the subs.(the first enclosure being between the
two subs). The second enclosure is usually ported or sealed. In my design,
the woofers share a common sealed cabinet with the woofers facing 90
degrees off axis from one another. The woofer facing the floor has its
output channeled to the same direction as the foward facing woofer. This
design works effectively on Velodyne and M&K home subs, will it work in a
car?


					What kind of woofers would be appropriate?     

James Mielo
Rutgers College of Pharmacy '94
milo@dorm.rutgers.edu
From: kmr4@po.CWRU.Edu (Keith M. Ryan)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Call for Papers/Posts
Date: 11 Nov 1992 17:58:15 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: kmr4@po.CWRU.Edu (Keith M. Ryan)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc12.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, kirk@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Kirk Lindstrom) says:
>
>Good idea.  I'd like to see more articles about how to get home audiophyle
>quality, or at least midfi quality, sound in a car.  Im am NOT talking about
>making BOOM-BOOM systems which are, I believe, tuned resonators that take
>a low note and peak-it-up (at least that is what some of the stuff I've
>heard sound like).  Topics could include speaker reviews, amp reviews,
>etc.

	How about discussing how to get some maggies in a car? 
	Then power converters to power a Krell 250....
	

	>|-/

-- 
         		    <<<< Caution >>>>
       A FAQ is currently under construction. Please ignore our mess as 
      we make this a better place to visit. We hope you enjoy your stay
			 <<<< Hard Hat Area >>>>
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: trw@spl1.spl.loral.com (Tim R Witort)
Subject: Re: speaker enclosure help
Organization: Loral Software Productivity Laboratory
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 21:07:59 GMT

In article <1992Nov8.033929.141@doug.cae.wisc.edu>, wail@hprisc-27.cae.wisc.edu (Wai Lee) writes:
|> 
|>       I just bought a pair of JBL 6" X 9" speakers and put them in a pair of
|> 8" X 11" X 8" boxes. However, they don't sound very good because of the
|> low-frequency resonance inside the box. I try to put lots of
|> sound absorbing materials in it but that doesn't help much.
|> Could some expert out there tell me what can I do to them ? 
|> Also, could sombody suggest some books to me that talk about
|> how to build speaker enclosure ?

   "Speaker Design Cookbook" is the current reference work
on building enclosures - probably more than you'll ever want
to know. It's available from Crutchfield : 1(800)955-3000.
It goes for around $24 + $3 shipping. Might want to check
your local library before you plunk down your $27 to see
if they have a copy.

-- Tim
From: kirk@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Kirk Lindstrom)
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 19:36:38 GMT
Subject: Re: Call for Papers/Posts
Organization: Shredding the water of SF Bay, HP-OCD
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car

So, is anyone else with me?  Are there any other areas we should look into
now or in the future?  If others are wanting in, I'll post more information on
how we'll do the information gathering, set up the general information and
experiments for those who don't want to devise their own, etc.

-- 
  - Cal Demaine                   | The university may own my ideas and opinions
----------

Good idea.  I'd like to see more articles about how to get home audiophyle
quality, or at least midfi quality, sound in a car.  Im am NOT talking about
making BOOM-BOOM systems which are, I believe, tuned resonators that take
a low note and peak-it-up (at least that is what some of the stuff I've
heard sound like).  Topics could include speaker reviews, amp reviews,
etc.

Kirk out

SONY CDP-5080, rf460sd, MB Quart QM218cx, and BA 6x9s in a box all in a E250 van

=> "We are what we pretend to be."  -  Kurt Vonnegut Jr.
+---------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Kirk Lindstrom - OCD Product R & D | Hewlett-Packard Co.  M/S: 91UA |
|   Engineer/Scientist, Hardware     |                                |
|------------------------------------| Optical Communication Division |
|       kirk@hpoclpa.hp.com          |                                |
|    Kirk Lindstrom / HP0100/UX      | 370 W. Trimble Rd.             |
| ph 408 435 6404 | fax 408 435 6286 | San Jose, CA  95131-1096       |
+---------------------------------------------------------------------+
From: laflisc@wkuvx1.bitnet
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Suitable Capacitor?
Date: 5 Nov 92 21:14:22 CST
Organization: Western Kentucky University, Bowling Green, KY

In article <1992Nov5.210455.13631@eng.ufl.edu>, brian@omaha.eel.ufl.edu (Brian Gentry) writes:
> In article <gilchr.720958980@ee.ualberta.ca>, gilchr@ee.ualberta.ca (Andrew Gilchrist) writes:
> |> brian@hopi.eel.ufl.edu (Brian Gentry) writes:
> |> >In article <gilchr.720422686@ee.ualberta.ca>, (Andrew Gilchrist) writes:
> |> >[...]
> 
> |> Stop reading audio magazines and thinking they know what they're
> |> talking about.
> 
> For the record, I have never read an article in an audio magazine that
> recommended the use of "stiffening caps".  I first heard about the
> idea at a local audio shop.  I was merely trying to apply some of the 
> electric circuit theory that I've learned to the problem.

If caps are not really used for power applications, which is what it
sounds like you are trying to say, why do some professional competitors,
Richard Clark..., use them?  I am not trying to sound sarcastic, just
asking.

> 
> We should probably move this discussion to sci.electronics or E-mail
> if you wish to continue it.

Yes, you should.  It is silly for two or three people to argue in front
of a thousand.  Again, not trying to sound sarcastic, just making a
point so dont go off and flame me.

					just taking up space

						Scott
					    laflisc@wkuvm1

Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: mgarber@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Max D Garber)
Subject: ++BOX DESIGN PROGRAM 4 IBM???++
Organization: The Ohio State University
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 15:16:46 GMT

I would like to know who out there can take a 3.5" disk of mine, copy an IBM 
Box Design Program on it and snail-mail it back to me?

JC Hamlin had sent the 'Perfect Box Design' program to me, but my machine will 
not pull it off the message and into DOS.

I would like to mail you a disk and have you copy it onto it for me.  If any of
you can do this, please email me ASAP.
-- 
THE HYPEMAN.
1983 Pontiac 2000 SE   1983 Honda Nighthawk 650   DECEMBER 12,1992
   "BABY BOOOM"             MINT CONDITION         "TIE THE KNOT"
 'SYSTEM FOR SALE'            "FOR SALE"
From: walkerr@bigwpi.WPI.EDU (Robert A Walker)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Amp Power
Date: 11 Nov 92 01:04:29 GMT
Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute
NNTP-Posting-Host: bigwpi.wpi.edu



	I have another dumb question for all you people out there that 
thankfully know more than i do.  I plan on having one amp of 40 watts per 
channel drive 2 6 X 9s.  I want to cut off the frequencies below 100 htz.
If i use the correct capacitors and inductors at the speaker, will it
be a waste of my amplifiers power to amplif the frequencies below 100 htz.
Is it possible to use the same capacitor before the signal gets to the amp,
or will that screw things up.  I plan on using the speaker level inputs
for use with the radio and the low level inputs for use with a portable CD
player.  Will the same size capacitor have the same effect on the low 
level signal as on the speaker level if i use capacitors before the amp?
I'm on a seriously restricted budget, so an electronic crossover is out 
of the question.  Any help would be appreciated.
From: jsc52962@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Jeffrey S. Curtis)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: 92 eclipse help
Date: 7 Nov 92 04:37:32 GMT
Article-I.D.: news.BxBwuM.E50
Distribution: na
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana

In article <37559@uflorida.cis.ufl.edu> jmc@reef.cis.ufl.edu (Justo Casablanca) writes:
}got a couple of questions for you stereo experts out there..
}1. what is your opinion on putting speakers in my front factory locations
}5  1/4 in the door and 3 1/2 in the dash near the window.  I want to put a 2
}way component system there with the tweeter in the dash but i am concerned 
}about imaging. has anyone done this to a car and seen what has happened??

In my '84 Mercury Marquis, I have Polk MM3500 3 1/2"s in the dash and
Sansui 5 1/4"s in the doors.  The xover is at 2.5kHz.  It does indeed
do strange things to the imaging.  The passenger-side woofer is more
on-axis with my ear than the driver-side woofer.  I have Jensen JTX
3269 6x9"s on the rear deck.  The result is that a lot of the left
channel midbass sounds like it's slightly behind me and to the left,
while the right channel midbass sounds like it's off to the right and
slightly in front of me.  The tweeter range imaging doesn't suffer
noticeably, though.  When I shift my legs, or if I put my hand down
near the woofer, the imaging changes dramatically.  Fortunately, I'm
really not picky enough to care about any of this.  You'll have to
decide whether you'll be willing to put up with it.

Hope this helps,

Jeff
-- 
Jeffrey S. Curtis sidewinder@uiuc.edu | "Resplendent and full again, they revel
 The Power of 37  free2207 at uiucvmd | in their role as self-appointed critics
"To be great is to be misunderstood." | of the establishment..."
"Insist on yourself - never imitate." |   -- INXS _Welcome to Wherever You Are_
From: gt0869a@prism.gatech.EDU (WATERS,CLYDE GORDON)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Suitable Capacitor?
Date: 5 Nov 92 14:26:25 GMT
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology

In article <1992Nov3.210957.16985@eng.ufl.edu> brian@hopi.eel.ufl.edu (Brian Gentry) writes:
>In article <gilchr.720422686@ee.ualberta.ca>, gilchr@ee.ualberta.ca (Andrew Gilchrist) writes:
>|> sure you put in another smaller capacitor in parallel (like a 10 uF
>|> tantalum cap, or something).

>I am aware that in CROSSOVERS some people use a "high quality" capacitor 
>in parallel with an electrolytic because of the non-linear qualities of
>electrolytics, but I have never heard of this in a power supply filtering
>application.  Why would you suggest doing this? 
>

The most important reason in my experience is that the large caps have
something called ESL, or effective series inductance. It is not a true
inductance effect, but it does make the cap less effective at filtering
high frequencies. GIven that some switching supplies use extreme 
ultrasonic switching frequencies, a parallel cap (especially tantalum)
can do wonders for improving power supply ripple rejection (in short,
getting the supply noise off the power rail), since they have near-zero
impedance.

Regards,
Gordon.

-- 
WATERS,CLYDE GORDON-Georgia Institute of Technology Atlanta Ga 30332 
******<LANGUAGE IS A VIRUS! - Laurie Anderson-Home of the Brave>******* 
uucp:	  ...!{decvax,hplabs,ncar,purdue,rutgers}!gatech!prism!gt0869a
Internet: gt0869a@prism.gatech.edu
From: vincent@garnet.berkeley.edu (Vincent J. Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: How do I make a Sony Changer work with Integra Factory deck
Date: 9 Nov 1992 21:45:54 GMT
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: garnet.berkeley.edu

Ok, I just bough a used changer CDX-a30. My local stereo store told me that
there is a din output and plug to make it work. However, I have to buy a 
controller which costs $119. Is this plausible? Can the din module work 
to make it go straight through to the controller or is this not true?
Another store told me I have to get an Fm modulator because the gain and volume
control won't interface correctly because there is no controller. Let me know.
thanks.
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Installing 2 head units
From: dcica@eis.calstate.edu (Doug Cica)
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 08:58:47 GMT
Organization: Calif State Univ/Electronic Information Services

Howdy..
I have some questions for you stereo wizzes out there..
I have an 83 Celica, and I want to add a CD player to my existing setup,
but I don't want to lose my cassette deck. The factory slot is big enough
for 2 head units, iso mounted.  My cassette deck is an Alpine 7273.  

What I need to know -  What brand cd players are iso mountable, and have
an input?  I have looked at Pioneer, Sony, and countless others. (By the
way, the cassette is indash, and I want the Cd player to be also).  Not
one has an input, or is isomountable.  I could get around the input
problem with a switchbox, but that still leaves the mounting problem.

any ideas?
From: veiss@cbmvax.commodore.com (Jeff Veiss - Staff)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Stereo recommendation
Date: 12 Nov 92 21:01:05 GMT
Organization: Commodore


I've been looking into a stereo system for my car for a few months
and it seems I keep talking to salesman who try to push one
brand or the other.  I'm basically looking for a cassette deck
head unit with a CD changer controller built in.  I can only fit
one head unit in my 1992 Honda Civic hatchback.  So far, I'v
narrowed it down to four units (in order of preference):

   Brand      Head Unit       CD changer
   -----      ---------       ----------
   Sony       XR-U770         CDX-U500 CD changer
   Nakamichi  Tuner Deck 1    CDC-101
   Blaupunkt  Washington      CDC-M1
   Denon      DCR-7870        5-disk changer (model ?)

Along with either a Soundstream MC-245 5-channel or D-200II 2-channel
Amplifier and M.B. Quart Speakers (tweeters, mid-range, sub-woofers).

Also, any information on alarms would be helpful, too (Wasn't there
a summary of alarms posted recently?  Where is that?)

I'm looking for experiences and opinions on the above units or
recommendations against these and for others.

Thanks in advance.  If you respond via E-mail, I'll post a summary
of the results.

Jeff

-- 
-------------------
Jeffrey S. Veiss

Commodore Business Machines
veiss@commodore.com
From: trw@spl1.spl.loral.com (Tim R Witort)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Teeny Tiny Lightbulbs
Date: 5 Nov 92 21:01:55 GMT
Article-I.D.: wdl.1992Nov5.210155.16018
Distribution: rec
Organization: Loral Software Productivity Laboratory

In article <SACKS.92Nov4140401@spartan.mv.us.adobe.com>, sacks@spartan.mv.us.adobe.com (Joel Sacks) writes:
|> The backlights in the factory Clarion...[details deleted]... Can I get
|> these from any Clarion dealer, or do I need to send the whole thing to the
|> factory and have them replace the bulbs for $100?

   Try Radio Shack. I had a similar problem with my home tape deck and
found suitable tiny bulbs at RS for something like 75 cents. This was
a few years ago, but they probably still have them or something close.

-- Tim
From: jcg2@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (JASON GIRARD)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Homeade EQ's
Date: 13 Nov 92 06:34:15 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

Hey,
Can anyone help me make an EQ (the second-order EQ, as referred to in Perfect
box).  What are the benefits of putting such an EQ in my subwoofer amplifier's
path.  The author of PerfectBox says a properly-designed active EQ will give a
boost and extend frequency response up to a half-octave lower and provide
rumble filtering, to boot (something like that).  What will such an EQ do for
me and how can I make one?  I need a lesson in this--I'm not an engineer YET.
Thanks for any and all responses,
Jason
jcg2@lehigh.edu
"It is better to die on your feet than live on your knees"
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: jmc@reef.cis.ufl.edu (Justo Casablanca)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Best CHANGER for $600.00?
Date: 10 Nov 92 23:36:37 GMT
Distribution: USA
Organization: Univ. of Florida CIS Dept.


hey look into the eclipse cd changers they are reaklly nice and some come
with fiber optic capability  which might come in nice in the future
plus they are really good units

dan
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: sct173wapsc@vx24.cc.monash.edu.au
Subject: Just testing....please ignore.
Organization: Computer Centre, Monash University, Australia
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 01:11:27 GMT

please ignore this.....
just a test to see if I can post to this group.....
From: milo@dorm.rutgers.edu (james mielo)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: REQUEST: VW Jetta upgrade advice
Date: 14 Nov 92 00:14:40 GMT
Followup-To: rec.audio.car
Organization: rutgers university

In article <1992Nov13.034805.13778@ils.nwu.edu>, revelos@ils.nwu.edu (J.
Revelos) wrote:

> 
> I'm wondering if someone could give me some advice on how to get the most
> out of the unit without getting too out of hand with the cost of upgrading.

   

>  I'm mainly looking for advice about a)should I only upgrade the speakers? 
> All of them?  Should I get an amp too?  How powerful?  What brand (speakers
> and amps)?  Is a subwoofer overkill for a car?


     amps . Buy a good one that will grow with the system. If you want you
can get a 6 channel amp. This will allow you to run your front,rear
speakers and some subs. Since money is tight, you may have to settle with a
4 channel amp. I recommend the soundstream MC140x. It's 35x4 which should
be enough. It will cost some bucks though. If you want a simple 4 channel
amp, try an alpine 3555. its 4 channels with built in cross overs. Alpines
are very reliable as are orion amps which is another choice but is very
very expensive.
      avoid radio shack, kraco, sparkomatic stuff.
      Pioneer is O.K. but not in the same league as the stuff above.
      same for sony although sony amps tend to be better than pioneer and
closer to the stuff above.


    Speakers. I like MB quart. Put 5 1/4 coaxial's up front in the doors
and the 6 1/2 coaxial's in the back.The coaxials have a built in tweeter
and are designed to run full range.
          for deep base at a cheap price nothing beats a bazooka bass tube.
Get the 10" model. You can also get them amplified.



> I can't do this all at once for financial reasons, so priorities with the
> suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
         start with the speakers first Mb quarts are great. Altec Lansing
is right up there too. Polk audio is good and relatively cheap. I would go
with any of them. I like the quarts best. they're well made and have a 3 yr
warranty
you could run them off the head unit but they will be a little under
powered

 also, start with the front speakers then the rear. The head unit(your CD
player) may be able to power the front speakers to your satisfaction. The
rears may need more power since they are bigger. You may be able to save
some money by getting just a two channel amp for the rear speakers only.

     The amp should come next. I bought a chaep one at first (sony). When I
started to get more serious I had to junk it. I then went to an alpine
3527. I still have it but it's now the weak link in my system and will be
junking it for a punch 75.   I could have saved alot of money if I just got
the punch first.

    another thing is buy everything from the same store and the same guy
The more you buy the lower the prices will get. If you buy the speakers
first, he'll get to know you and may give you a break on the amp.    


          Good Luck on your system. any other questions just email me.     
         


James Mielo
Rutgers College of Pharmacy '94
milo@dorm.rutgers.edu
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: crj2@ra.msstate.edu (Charles R. Jones)
Subject: Re: Car alarms
Keywords: auto car alarm
Organization: Mississippi State University
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 21:13:54 GMT

In article <1688@niktow.canisius.edu> jarvis@niktow.canisius.edu (Daniel Jarvis) writes:
>Is anyone familiar with the K-9/prestige/excalibur car alarm systems?  I'm
>pretty sure that they are all in the same line.  Anyway the problem is that
>it chirps three times upon arm-up.  This signals the owner that a door
>has been left open.  I make sure all circuits are closed but it always chirps
>three times.  Has anybody else had this problem?  Suggestions would be greatly
>appreciated...
>
>jarvis@niktow.cs.canisius.edu
>------


A friend of mine has an excalibur alarm and it has started doing the same
thing...3 chirps when it arms...we checked thoroughly and there are NO
open circuits......go figure
From: speedy@engr.latech.edu (Alfred "Speedy" Mercer)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Box porting
Date: 12 Nov 92 21:45:12 GMT
Article-I.D.: engr.speedy.25
Organization: Louisiana Tech University

In article <1992Nov12.183623.23001@cci632.cci.com> dsg@cci632.cci.com (Dave Greenberg) writes:


>       Hi all,

>       I am currently building a box for my Mitsubishi 3000 GT. It is 
>shapped really bizzare (70, 20, 90 degree triangle, with a "cube" attached
>to the back to give me 1.3 cuft of space for an Orion 10" DVC (XTR).
>Basically, it should be ported (2" diameter, 2 3/8" length) my question
>is:  How will port placement affect the sound? Ideally, I would like to
>put the port approx. 90 degress (on a different face of the box) from the
>woofer...is this a problem. What about if I put it 180 degrees (out the
>back of the box)? (The woofer fires into the rear seats)...

>       Any ideas??
>	
>                                               Dave

Port location is not as critical as is its length, diameter and distance 
from the "back" of the box (must have more space on the back of the port 
than the area of the port itself.).

 ******************************* DISCLAIMER *********************************
  My employer doesn't even KNOW I am posting this much less approve or agree
                                  with it!
From: genocide@hale.cts.com (Gary Danko)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: ++Paper Pyle Specs.-HELP!++
Date: 9 Nov 92 21:12:10 GMT
Organization: Hale Telecommunications Inc.

mgarber@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Max D Garber) writes:

> I have two 12" Paper Pyles mounted in a three-way Ultimate Speaker box, with 
> 100 watt Sherwood running to each.  I have recently aquired 4 more 12" Paper 
> Pyles and would like to build myself a new box.  I would like to incorporate 
> of the Pyles in this box-but need the specs on th Paper Pyle 12s.
> 
> I need to know:
>      Air Space needed
>      size of portage
>      Best mounting position (ie. facing front, back, up)
> 
> I would like to know:
>      Max. Wattage they can handle
>      The wattage that will make them SOUND the best
> 
pyle sent me a list with all the specs of their entire line. email me and 
i will reply with the specs you are looking for.
-g
l
From: kmr4@po.CWRU.edu (Keith M. Ryan)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: test
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 19:14:00 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University
NNTP-Posting-Host: b64746.student.cwru.edu

In article <1992Nov13.184817.3078@sunova.ssc.gov> fabela@tibet.Berkeley.EDU (George Fabela) writes:

Test?
You mean we have a test today?

and I didn't even study....