HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: spl@pitstop.ucsd.edu (Steve Lamont)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: aluminum brew kettle
Date: 12 Sep 92 14:39:50 GMT
Organization: University of Calif., San Diego/Microscopy and Imaging Resource
NNTP-Posting-Host: pitstop.ucsd.edu

In article <18qrrlINN1rt@agate.berkeley.edu> devine@olympus.CS.Berkeley.EDU (bob devine) writes:
>While aluminum has been discovered in greater than normal amounts
>in brains of Alzheimer patients, the causal link has not been proven.

Not only that, as I've mentioned before in this forum, the causal link
is considerably in doubt.  The truth is that we are pretty far from
understanding the mechanism that causes Alzheimer's Disease.

							spl
-- 
Steve Lamont, SciViGuy -- (619) 534-7968 -- spl@dim.ucsd.edu
UCSD Microscopy and Imaging Resource/UCSD Med School/La Jolla, CA 92093-0608
"There was a time when tyrants feared/The new world of the free.
Now freedom is afraid and shrieks/At tyranny." - "Brave New World," A. Macleish
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jessie@IASTATE.EDU (Brent Danielson)
Subject: Questions using special grains 
Reply-To: jessie@IASTATE.EDU (Brent Danielson)
Organization: Iowa State University
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 1992 17:29:27 GMT

I just put together a brew using a recipe that I got somewhere on the net for a
Sierra Nevada Pale Ale clone.  I didn't have the exact ingredients, but I tried
to stay close to the recipe.

The recipe is extract based and calls for 1/4# crystal (40L) and 1/4# crystal
(80L) amoung other things.  I ordered from the Home Brewery, and their crystal
came in 20L, 60L, and 90L (I think).  Anyway, if one needs 1/4# of 40L but don't
have it, can one substitute with 1/2# of 20L?  Is levening or whatever the L
stands for additive in some fashion?

My other question concerns whether or not I've made an Ale Lite or a real beer.
The starting SG was 1.025 which seems way low (God help me if I've reinvented
Bud Light).  The modified recipe was:

8# Alexanders Pale Malt, 
1/4# each of crystal 20L, 60L, and 90L,
1 oz Chinnok (9.6%) - 60 Min
1 oz Cascade (5.5%) - 30 Min

I had a NASTY boil over (last time I use any pot less than 5 gals) after I had
added 3/4 oz of Chinook.  A lot of the hops seemed to be lost so I added another
1/4 oz.  Could this boil over be the reason for the low SG?

I cooled this with a wort chiller in 15 min to 70F (thanks to the poster of the
wortchiller plans) and transfered to carboy leaving lots of trub behind.  Does
this lower SG?  I wouldn't think particulates would matter to SG, especially if
they aren't even colloidal.

Anyway, I intend to dry hop when I rack to a secondary in a few days.  I was
going to use 1.5 oz of Cascade, but if this is a wimp beer, should I adjust
this?  How much?

Why I'm at it, one last question.  I usually prime with corn sugar, but I would
like to use dry malt this time.  Should I use the same 3/4c amount as is the
norm with corn sugar?

Thanks in advance for all the info.  

Brent J. Danielson 
Jessie@iastate.edu
From: hersh@expo.lcs.mit.edu (Jay Hersh)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Breiss DMS
Date: 11 Sep 92 17:45:22 GMT
Organization: X Consortium, MIT Laboratory for Computer Science

homebrew@lupulus.ssc.gov writes:

>DMS gets produced from its precursors when the wort is above 140F.  It's
>true that different malts have more or less of these precursors, but
>as Jim suggested, technique can also be a big factor.  During a vigorous
>boil, the DMS gets boiled off, so a non-vigorous boil can increase your
>DMS levels.  When the heat is turned off, is when most of the DMS that
>remains in your beer gets produced.  Cooling quickly with a wort chiller
>to below 140F is the best way to minimize DMS production during this
>stage of the process.  I'm sure that Micah uses a chiller, guessing this
>based on the equipment he built and was displaying at the National Conference,
>so the only factor I can guess, if Micah's boils are vigorous, is tapwater
>temperature.  Perhaps Micah's tapwater is warm and an ice-bath pre-chiller
>would help cool the wort quickly enough to keep DMS below sensory thresholds?

Just a nit here. It is actually SMM the pre-cursor to DMS which gets
boiled off in a vigorous boil.

>As a related aside, I recently, reluctantly drank Old Style beer (at a Cubs
>game) and noted an incredible DMS nose.  Jackson writes of Old Style
>(something like): a weak little beer with corn in the palate.  Does G.
>Heilemann's use Briess?

Al is right to note that many commercial beers, particularly light lagers
have DMS as a flavor component. I understand that at least one brewer
(Schmidts??) modified there procedures at one time to reduce this and
received many complaints. For many light lager drinkerss this flavor "defect" 
is  actually a desired component of the flavor, yuch!! For those who were
at this year's Dr. Beer Seminar you got a first hand taste/smell of how
DMS in the Pabst (the reference beer) masked out some other flavor defects
we tried to highlight. In the past I have done comparison tastings to 
find a reference beer for the Dr. Beer seminars that was DMS free. In
the inexpensive light lager categories it is not easy. Almost all of them
have at least some DMS. I will likely do another tasting again prior to
next year's AHA Conference (shudder)...


	JaH


--
Hopfen und Malz, Gott erhalts
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jeq@i88.isc.com (Jonathan E. Quist)
Subject: Newbie question (was: Re: "Dry" Beer?)
Organization: INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation, Naperville, IL
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 19:23:37 GMT

I realize that this will probably be answered when I get a copy of
one of the suggested books, however:

In article <1992Sep9.130030.7412@ac.dal.ca> ech@ac.dal.ca writes:
>the sweetness.  To brew a DRY beer at home, stick to low OG, highly 
>fermentable pale coloured worts.  Once you have achieved a dry beer that way,
>then start trying to boost the ETOH.  I find honey a good additive to 
>boost OG without adding sweetness to the end product, and it doesn't have

I've got most of this from the context; from a week's reading of
rec.crafts.brewing and the digest, I think that OG is roughly "originating
gravity".  I gather that ETOH is related, though I'm at a loss for
what it actually stands for.

So, my question (or request):  Could someone add a short glossary of
terms, including common acronyms, to the FAQ list?  While a lot of
things are covered, and I'll get a lot more by re-reading the FAQ and
beginners text a few more times, it'd be handy to have a short list
of terms to refer to.  To us newcomers, worts are a skin condition,
and a carboy is the brand of deodorant soap used to cure it.  :')

And again, I realize a lot of this is included in the recommended books,
but it'd also be nice to have an online copy to refer to while reading
at work.  I also think, judging from a few postings I've seen, that
some degree of standardization of acronyms might save some flames.
(E.g., SG == starting gravity in brewing, SG == specific gravity in chemistry)

Before we get a dozen postings explaining what ETOH is, don't worry.  I'll
get it from context, or from the book, or from stepping in a puddle of it.
I'm asking more to see if anyone else thinks an FAQ glossary would be
worth the effort.  In return, I'll keep track of any particularly mystifying
aspects of this whole experience as I get into it, so that I can add
to it once the mysteries have been solved.

Oh, and please, don't flame me!!!     :')

(If you do, I'll drag you back into rec.motorcycles, and subject you
 us folks with napalm coursing through our veins!)

Oh, and one more thing:  In the short time I've been reading this group,
I'm getting progressively more excited about the whole thing.  I'm finding
this all quite fascinating.

ObligatorySolicitation:  If any Chicago area brewers who have suggestions
about suppliers in the west suburbs, I'm looking forward to hearing from
you.
-- 
Jonathan E. Quist                              INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation
jeq@i88.isc.com  '71 CL450-K4 "Gleep", DoD #094        Naperville, IL
        There are many things a person should experience in a lifetime.
       Among them are an infant's first cry, and an infant's first laugh.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: pat@sphinx.phys.Virginia.EDU (pat walsh)
Subject: Re: Helium-charged beer
Organization: University of Virginia Physics Department
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 18:50:02 GMT

Joseph Nathan Hall writes:

>So, I just noticed in the new Zymurgy that the Club Night at the National
>Conference featured a helium-charged beer.

>(!)

Wow, I can just see the ads for this:

"For those of you who want to talk like Herve Villechaize!" (sp?)

Sorry, couldn't resist. :-) :-) :-)

- Patrick Walsh
  University of Virginia Department of Physics
  pw@virginia.bitnet, pw@virginia.edu, pat@gomez.phys.virginia.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: eel@ravel.udel.edu (Eric Lowenthal)
Subject: WANTED: Ram Rod Pale Ale-alike
Followup-To: eel@bflyxn5.che.udel.edu
Summary: Wanted: Recipe
Keywords: Recipe Wanted
Organization: University of Delaware
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 15:25:33 GMT



Just tasted Ram Rod Pale Ale: totally delicious.  Would like to make
something which approximates this (roasted ?) flavor and pleasant color.
I would appreciate any recipes thast you have for brew which approximates
Ram Rod (extract recipes preferred, but all-grain welcome).

Send replies to: eel@bflyxn5.che.udel.edu

Thanks in advance for your responses.
Regards,
EEL
From: abirenbo@rigel.cel.scg.hac.com (Aaron Birenboim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Christmas Brew
Date: 9 Sep 92 14:51:28 GMT
Organization: Hughes Aircraft Colorado Engineering Labs

In article <9209082208.AA03469@gandalf.Berkeley.EDU> rein@GANDALF.BERKELEY.EDU (steve rein) writes:
>Greetings, More Experienced Ones!
>
>  I'm interested in brewing up a batch of Christmas
>Beer (you know, spiced and more highly charged).
>Do any of you have a recipe that only uses malt extract ?

I made an ale i called "Hershell Chanukah's Mulled Athiest Ale"
last year.  At the risk of sounding immodest, it was the best spiced
ale i have ever had.  I do not have my log with me... but i can give
you an idea about what i did.  I can give more exact measurements if you
wish, but i'm terribly relaxed, and not too scientific about such things.

1 3kg can if Ireks amber malt extract
2 lbs crystal (i suggest 40l or below)
2 lbs honey  (more honey if you want it even stronger)

about 15 HBU boiling hops
about 2 oz finish hops (i like cascade leaf) (2 min)

  spices: add for last 10 min of boil or so:

2 oz fresh ginger
peels from 3 lemmons
10 cloves, lightly crushed
about 1 tsp allspice, lightly crushed
2 cinamon sticks lightly crushed
1/2 a nutmeg, lightly crushed (perhaps try less... like 1/4 a nutmeg)
(irish moss for clarity)

Whitbread ale yeast


WARNING:  This stuff tasted like s%#t on ice for at least 6 months.
Honey is like that often.  Also... the spices were totally overpowering
and NASTY at first.  so.... GET BREWING NOW!!!!!!!  ITS ALMOST TOO
LATE FOR XMAS ALREADY!!!!!!!!!!!  ;-)

These spices are often used in "mulled" apple cider, hence
the name.  btw: steal the name for this beer and i will hunt
you down and flog you severely with a wet tortilla!  It took
many homebrews and devine inspiration to get this name.
(devine inspiration?!?!?? for "athiest" ale?!!!??  ;-)

 Also... the flavor os this is totally dominated by the
crystal, honey, and spices.  Don't fret too much about the
extract.  Any amber will do.  If all you can get is pale,
just add about 1 lb of "amber" malt to the crystal steep.
Amber can be made by toasting pale malt at 350F for about 20 min.




--
Aaron Birenboim                                |I am just too tired to think
abirenbo%rigel.cel.scg.hac.com@hac2arpa.hac.com|of a good quote.
abirenbo@isis.cs.du.edu                        |    - ChickenHead
w (303) 344-6486                               |
From: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us (Joseph Nathan Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Rocky Mountain Spring H2O [Re: Big Brewers ...]
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 92 20:37:15 EDT
Organization: 5 Sigma Software
Reply-To: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us
X-Mailer: uAccess - Macintosh Release: 1.5v5


In article <Bun1xF.EKy@wrs.com> (rec.crafts.brewing), gak@wrs.com (Richard Stueven) writes:
) In article 58902@cc.usu.edu, slndw@cc.usu.edu () writes:
) >Maybe bud needs to start selling sparkling water!!
) 
) Coors does!  They've been bottling "Rocky Mountain Spring Water" for
) about a year now...

Ah, yes, but here on the East Coast, it's shipped "in a concentrated
form" in tanker cars to a plant in Philadelphia, where it is mixed
1:1 with Schyulkill River Punch before bottling and distribution to
the local markets.

:-)  :-)  :-)

uunet!joebloe!joseph   (609) 273-8200 day   joseph%joebloe@uunet.uu.net
v   v  sssss | Certified Guru: all-grain brewing,| 2102 Ryan's Run East
 v v  s   s  | C, synthesizer comp & arranging,  | Rt 38 & 41
  v    sss   | photography. Also not a bad cook. | Maple Shade NJ 08052
-----My employer isn't paying for this, and my opinions are my own-----
From: arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: aluminum (more chatter)
Date: 15 Sep 92 14:26:13 GMT
Organization: ddsw1.MCS.COM Contributor, Chicago, IL

In article <1992Sep14.101548.58863@cc.usu.edu> slndw@cc.usu.edu writes:
>In article <BuJq3B.Dq5@ddsw1.mcs.com>, arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) writes:
>> Well, I guess I have to break more bad news.  Most bird lovers are
>> aware of the evils of the new teflon like coating on pans but few
>> other people have even heard of the problem.  If you heat one of these
>> pans in the presence of a caged bird , it will die by the time the temp
>> in the pan gets to about 300F.  What happens to humans in the same room
>> one can only conjecture but I have switched back to cast iron.. oops ..
>> just go a heart murmer.
>> 
>
>
>DuPont no longer makes this type of teflon because it is so dangerous.
>The problem was only with heating an empty pan, which ruins the coating
>anyhow, and the tetra flora ethelene (??) (teflon) vapor got into the 
>air.  The "new improved" teflon is, suposedly, safer, and has been
>made for several years now.


Well, it wouldn't be the first time I got the story wrong but my understanding
is that teflon was rather useless because of its low melting point and
was replaced by some new stuff that is not even called teflon and it is this
new stuff that causes the problem.  Now this story is years old so when I say
new, I am not referring to anything that may have come out in the past year or
so.
From: leighann@sybase.com (Leigh Ann Hussey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Brewing Questions... Any Answers Out there?
Date: 8 Sep 92 21:50:33 GMT
Organization: Sybase, Inc.

In article <4297@wet.UUCP> sbeitzel@wet.UUCP (Stephen Beitzel) writes:
>My local brewshop provided me with a packet of stuff called
>sparkolloid.  The guy at the shop says that it's just powdered Irish Moss,
>which is, in turn, not really moss, but seaweed.  Anyway, it precipitates
>out and takes a lot of the big particulates with it.  It is added to the
>boil during the last 5 minutes.  I am not sure what carrageenan is.  Is it
>the same stuff?

In brief: yes, exactly the same.

	- Leigh Ann


Leigh Ann Hussey                                      leighann@sybase.com
"Turkeys, heresy, hops and beer / All came to England in the one year."
What year was it?
Answer: 1520
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: erbachgm@bcarh2a3.bnr.ca (Gary Erbach)
Subject: Re: aluminum brew kettle bottom with rest SSteel
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd., Ottawa
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 92 19:54:06 GMT

I am thinking about getting a Stainless Steel pot and was phoning a few
restaurant supply stores in town. The cheapest one that I have found so
far has an aluminium clad bottom on it.

Will this be a problem (melting) with the high heat needed to boil
on a stove top or gas flame?

Gary Erbach
erbachgm@bnr.ca

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: gopstein@helix.bms.com (Rich Gopstein)
Subject: "Dry" Beer?
Organization: Bristol-Myers Squibb PRI
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 1992 03:10:36 GMT


Sorry if this has been discussed before, but it's not in the FAQ:

How do the recent "dry" beers (Michelob, Bud, Molson, ...) differ
from non dry beers?  How would one home brew some?  Thanks.


-- 
Rich Gopstein

gopstein@bms.com
rutgers!bms.com!gopstein
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: arf@ddsw1.MCS.COM (Jack Schmidling)
Subject: CLASSIFIED SECTION
Organization: ddsw1.MCS.COM Contributor, Chicago, IL
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 18:25:20 GMT

 
           The following is the weekly edition 
           of the   r.c.b   CLASSIFIED SECTION
 
                      SEP 9, 1992
 
 All submissions must be brewing related, 5 lines or less and 
 no item may be posted more then once in a 30 day period. 
 Items may be submitted as WANTED or FOR SALE and may be 
 either personal or commercial.  Send submissions to 
 arf@ddsw1.mcs.com with CLASSIFIED as subject.
 
                    ................
 
 
 WANTED... Upgrading to a better Mill?  Need a home for old 
 Corona?  Contact Ulick Stafford, ulick@okeefe.helios.nd.edu
 
 FOR SALE...  7-gallon carboys, $10.  Shipped in styrofoam 
 jacket.  Contact Lynne at St. Patrick's of Texas at 
 512-832-9045   
 
 FOR SALE... one Grain (Sparge) bag.  Used only twice.  
 Complete with instructions and original packaging.  Fits a 
 6.5 gal primary fermenterbucket just fine.  $6, includes 
 shipping.  uunet!polstra!larryba
 
 FOR SALE ..... High tech counter-pressure bottle fillers. 
 Easy to use, made of leak proof food grade plastic, with 
 metal trigger and needle valves. $49.95 plus $4.75 S&H plus 
 tax. Can be ordered from: Benjamin Machine Products   1121 
 Doker unit #7 Modesto, CA. 95351 phone or fax 209 523 8874   
 (Ed. note... AKA Micah Milspah)
 
 FOR SALE...  Beginners' VIDEO.  All the basics, root beer, 
 ginger ale and extract beer plus tutorial on hops, malt and 
 yeast.  $12 + shipping to netfolk from Jack Schmidling 
 Productions. For complete info... email.. arf@ddsw1.mcs.com
 
 
                 ................
 
 If you have something to buy or sell, email your ad to
 arf@ddsw1.mcs.com in the above format.
 
 js
From: slk6p@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: RE: questions using special grains
Date: 8 Sep 92 09:56:41 MDT
Organization: Utah State University

Brent Danielson writes  (#5927

1>The recipe is extract based and calls for 1/4# crystal (40L) and 1/4# crystal
(80L) amoung other things.  I ordered from the Home Brewery, and their crystal
came in 20L, 60L, and 90L (I think). Anyway, if one needs 1/4# of 40L but don't
have it, can one substitute with 1/2# of 20L?  Is levening or whatever the L
stands for additive in some fashion?

*The L stands for Lovibond.  Is pertains to the degree of kilning of the 
crystal which translates into COLOR.  10L is the lightest, 120L the darkest.
So doubling 20L quantities does not equal 40L.
In general I add on the order of 1# crystal per 5 gallons ( I like xtal!)
It aids in fullness of body/malt character, and gives good head. Any guy
could use more of that.....um er.... in his beer (sorry couldn't resist!)
If you want a REAL light brew use 10L,  if you want a read-headed beer us 
120L.  Crystal does tend to impart a reddisch/amber color to beer.

2>Anyway, I intend to dry hop when I rack to a secondary in a few days.  
I was going to use 1.5 oz of Cascade, but if this is a wimp beer, should I
adjust this?  How much?

*Double it.  I like hops.  I like cascade hops.  Maybe go- 2 oz boil, 
1 oz finish.  Hell you could even try throwing a little in the secondary
to dry hop. Recipes never call for enuf hops IMHO.  

3>Why I'm at it, one last question. I usually prime with corn sugar, 
but I would like to use dry malt this time.  Should I use the same 3/4c
amount as is the norm with corn sugar? 

*No-  corn sugar is more fermentable.  You'll want more dme.  I couldn't 
give you a number.  Check Millers book.  I know that was answered some
time back.  Don't know if its still on the net or not.  Someone will tell you.

        Good luck.  Party on.....uh-  Brew on I mean.....

                    J.Wyllie  (The Coyote)  SLK6P@cc.usu.edu
From: rp9780@mexico (Rudyard A K Porter)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: EichenWiezzen and probs
Date: 3 Sep 92 22:51:11 GMT
Organization: Medtronic, Inc.

fbruno@rapnet.sanders.lockheed.com (F. Bruno) writes:
: I have just kegged a batch of Frankos Magnificient EichenWeizzen. This
: I noticed last night that a strange brown colored(almost green) yeast
: seemed to have started... Well actually, I was opening up the carboy
: to check the SG readingand noticed a smell from my first batch, that of
: rotten eggs. My first batch was ruined, so I panicked and immediately
: grabbed my keg, filled it and bumped the pressure up to 30 PSI. The new
: "invader" yeast had just started, as there was no off color trub that I
: noticed, just the usual off white stuff, with about 30 yeast "clumps"
: floating up and down. My only thought is that maybe the alcohol
: content killed off the Wyeast and this new strain took over (mutated?)
: Well, Heres my recipe:
: 	Franko's Magnificient Eichenweizzen.
: 	1 lb lite dry extract
: 	3.3 kg Ireks wheat extract
: 	Wyeast 3056 Bavarian Wheat
: 	1 oz. Hallertauer 7.5 alpha
: 	1/4 oz Hallertauer 7.5 alpha (finish)
: 	1 tsp. Irish moss
: 	1 oz. Oak chips
: 
: 8/19/92	Boil 1 1/2 gal water
: 	add 3.3 kg OIreks wheat
: 	add 1 lb aem dry malt extract
: 	add 1 oz Hallertauer
: 	Let boil for 40 minutes
: 	add 1/2 oz finishing hops
: 	add 1 oz oak chips
: 	add 1 tsp irish moss
: 	Let cool
: 	add water to bring to 5 gals
: 	pitch Yeast
: 	OG 1045
: 9/1/92	FG 1012
: 
: Any comments on the little alien yeasts toward the end?
: 			-Frank
: 


Sounds like a fine recipe.  I am skeptical, though, that what you saw
was green yeast.  Green MOLD maybe, but yeast?  HHHHMMMMMMMM.
Did you use pelletized hops and leave much of them in the wort during
the fermentation?  This could cause the green coloration.

The rotten egg smell sounds bad, too.  I think you have a bacteria 
problem (no offense).

Also, I have never used oak chips before, but they must be sterilized 
somehow.  It seems that in your procedure you put them into the hot
boil near the end.  That sounds good.  But if others have ways of
sterilizing their wood, I would appreciate hearing about it.  I have
heard of some people "roasting" them.  Comments?

--
*******************************************************************************
Rudyard Anderson Knox Porter             *  Life's but a stumbling shadow,
rp9780@medtronic.com                     *  Full of sounds of beer glasses,
Minneapolis, Minnesota                   *  Signifying everything!  
                                         *     1st draft, MacBeth
*******************************************************************************
From: simmon@eeel.nist.gov (Eric Simmon)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: HBD FTP site?
Date: 9 Sep 92 19:59:38 GMT

I am having some trouble reaching the HBD FTP site at:

	hpfcmi.fc.hp.com

Does anyone know what the problem might be?  I cannot FTP
or mail (to homebrew@...).

The reason I want to FTP to the archives is to find information
on brewing root beer.  Does anyone have any info on brewing soda?

Thanx,

Eric Simmon
From: dbc@po.cwru.edu (Dean Cookson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Wort specific heat
Followup-To: rec.crafts.brewing
Date: 9 Sep 1992 01:53:15 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: b62003.student.cwru.edu

Does anyone have any references for calculating or approximating the
specific heat of the wort/grain combination in a mash tun??

| Dean Cookson / dbc@po.cwru.edu / 216 754-1834     | DoD #207  AMA
#573534|
| Case Western Reserve U. Computer E. and Sci. dept.| KotNML  /  KotB     
|
| "If I was worried about who saw me, I'd never get | '81 CB750C          
|
| nekkid at all." -Ed Green, DoD #0111              | '88 Bianchi Limited 
|