HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Subject: Re: (F) Peat
Keywords: peat
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 12:43:03 GMT

In article <1992Oct07.195357.2472@microsoft.com> rickkr@microsoft.com (Rick Krause) writes:
>How long should one boil the peat?

The reasons people boil peat are to quickly waterlog it and to purge it of
some off the extereme acidity.  It's ususally sufficient to bring it to a
boil.  I usually rinse it under cold tap water in a fine mesh (shrimp) net.
If the water looks too intensely brown and acidic, I boil and rinse the 
peat another 1-2 times.  The water used to boil peat winds up being very
acidic and soft, so it can be used much like a store bought peat extract
(i.e. Tetra's Black Water Extract).

You can neutralize some of the peat's acidity by adding baking soda to the
water -- it will turn the water black with the various insoluble salts and
will make the peat less acidic.
-- 
Oleg Kiselev at home			...use the header to find the path
From: lcrtroy@ubvmsd.cc.buffalo.edu (Mary Troy)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Question about people who have questions about algae problems [F]
Date: 12 Oct 92 19:31:00 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <1992Oct8.165929.2116@en.ecn.purdue.edu>, wmack@en.ecn.purdue.edu (William J Mack) writes...
>I notice every now and then someone comes out with a post describing some sort
>of algae problem in their freshwater tank.  They then go on with a long detaileddescription of their problem, be it brown algae, green algae, red, black, blue,
>purple - whatever.  They have bought 3 different types of algae killing 
> 
>no.  I bought my plecos over 3 years ago and have not delt with algae since.
That is absolutely correct, I, too have found plecos to be great cures for malignant algae.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier)
Subject: Re: Could someone clarify a FAQ statement re a siphon?
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 92 16:27:01 GMT

Rick Krause (rickkr@microsoft.com) wrote:
: One of the FAQ articles stated that a technique for acclimating
: new fish it to put them and their water in a bucket and "establish
: a siphon with a piece of airline tubing with airstones at either
: end".  I need some clarification on this.
: 
: <1> Does "airstones at either end" mean to put an airstone at one
: of the ends, or to put stones on both ends?

It means put the airstone at one end, but it doesn't matter which.
The idea is to slowly drip aquarium water into the bucket, giving
the new arrival time to acclimate.  The airstone simply reduces the
water flow.
 
: <2> How would you start a siphon like this?

Suck.

--
"They thought to use and shame me but I win out by nature, because a true
freak cannot be made.  A true freak must be born." - Geek Love

Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier
From: drake@Autodesk.COM (Dan Drake)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Amiricle W/D filter any good?
Date: 12 Oct 92 22:50:52 GMT
Organization: Autodesk Inc., Sausalito CA, USA

gt7969a@prism.gatech.EDU (DEPUY) writes:
> I am considering buying an Amirical SL250 wet/dry trickle filter from 
> Mail Order Pet Shop.  Is this a decent filter?
> 
> I plan to use it with a 110 or 135 fresh water plant tank (hopefully for
> really low maintence and great water quality) and will probably change
> the tank over to salt water/reef in the future.
> 
> Thanks for any advice on this filter.

I got their smallest model a few months ago for my 55 gallon freshwater.
I think it's a really well designed unit, and I wouldn't hesitate to buy
one again.  A few caveats, though:

This one developed a leaky seam, which I fixed with an acrylic-repair
kit from Tab Plastics (a good thing to have around the house).  I blame
shipping damage or something for this, having no real evidence of
quality control problems, but who knows?

It wouldn't cost them much to provide a better instruction sheet.  This
was adequate, but I'd have been in poor shape if I hadn't been reading
this forum and performing thought experiments on filter setups for some
months.

I'm not so sure about that low maintenance.  The filter pad that sits on
top of the trickle tower gets loaded with gunk pretty fast, and wants
pretty much daily cleaning.  If you don't clean it, the water will spill
nicely over an overflow on the drip plate, bypassing your trickle
medium; so no harm is done, but the trickle tower isn't doing you much
good.

You definitely want to order spare filter pad material, which MOPS
carries, as well as spares of anything else you can think of.  You can
wash the pads now and then using a little bleach in the water; I always
give a final rinse or two with a bit of sodium thiosulphate in the water
to make sure the chlorine is gone, then let the pad air-dry quite
thoroughly.

High water quality: Yes.  Changing to trickle filter from UGF, which I
deep-vacuumed conscientiously and energetically, dropped the nitrate
level from 40-50 ppm to less than 10.  Phosphates, now that I don't
use Novaqua, are too low to measure accurately with the Lamotte kit.
And insofar as water changes are more fun when you don't have to root
around in spectacularly filthy gravel, I guess you could even talk about
low maintenance.

BTW I find that the trickle filter is a really major CO2 killer.
Without injection, the pH in my tank (at 3-4 KH) would get close to 8 in
short order.  On the other hand, injection is simple: run a piece of
silicone tubing, weighted on the end, into the sump under the trickle
tower.  Run CO2 at however many bubbles a minute you need (2
bubbles/second in my case) and it turns your CO2 disperser into a CO2
diffuser, free of charge.


--
Dan Drake
drake@Autodesk.com
From: kloss@crvax.sri.com (James J. Kloss)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Complete system for sale
Date: 12 Oct 92 22:10:00 GMT
Distribution: ba
Organization: SRI International
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

26-gallon, acrylic aquarium complete with heaters, filters, pumps, light,
aerators, miscellaneous equipment and custom-made stand. $75.
Call Mike at 415 969-1526.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: ffujita@s.psych.uiuc.edu (Frank Fujita)
Subject: Re: The prettier the fish, the less hardy
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1992 18:55:19 GMT


Although there are many exceptions, I think the 'rule' you may have
heard refers to 'fancy' fish (i.e. the ones some people feel are
mutants)  Thus fancy goldfish are less hardy than regular goldfish, and
fancy guppies are (may be) less hardy than regular guppies.  But, there
are many extremely beautiful fish that got to be that way through
natural selection, not breeding experiments.

Frank Fujita
(keeper of fancy goldfish and albino guppies among other atrocities)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: jengagne@next03cville.wam.umd.edu (Jenny Lynne Gagne)
Subject: Re: Question about people who have questions about algae problems [F]
Keywords: Pleco
Reply-To: Jurassic Park as movie
Organization: Workstations at Maryland, University of Maryland, College Park
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 00:18:28 GMT

In article <35694@cbmvax.commodore.com> raible@cbmvax.commodore.com (Bob  
Raible - LSI Design) writes:
> 
> Well, I have a bristlenose pleco in my 55g tank and he doesn't put a  
dent in
> the green furry algae that coats the walls like a blanket. No, I don't  
feed
> him much else, just a Tabimin every now and again. I bought this type of
> pleco since it only gets to be about 6" in length. Normal plecos sold in
> pet stores (H. punctatus) get to 14" or so in length and are  
inappropriate
> for anything but a large tank. I found this out the hard way after  
returning
> several 8" specimens to pet stores. Also a large pleco will subject your
> plant stems to quite a beating. What do you do with your plecos when  
they
> get too large?

I'll be moving my barbs into a 20gal soon, and don't relish the thought of  
algae cleanup.  Will a common pleco do?  Will it eat my Hygrophila?
From: cowan@cerianthus.pinetree.org (Darin Cowan (root))
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Fastest Fish??
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 92 12:05:22 GMT
Organization: The Aquarium, Ottawa, Ontario

wong@fraser.sfu.ca (Sam S. Wong) writes:

> Keeping on topic with fast fish, what tropical fish do most aquarists have
> most troubles catching with or without hiding areas?
>  
> Out of all the fish I raised, I had lots of problems catching zebra danios
> with one net.

Tiger barbs or kulii loaches have given me the most problem.


====
cowan@cerianthus.pinetree.org
(Darin Cowan (root))

This beautiful post is the 461th on this system!
From: jimh@ultra.com (Jim Hurley)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [F] Plants and UGF questions
Keywords: plants, ugf
Date: 16 Oct 92 17:16:17 GMT
Organization: Ultra Network Technologies

In <1992Oct16.145320.3085@cis.uab.edu> sloan@cis.uab.edu (Kenneth Sloan) writes:
[...]

-->Use small plastic pots.


[...]

While I really have nothing against pots, I don't use them.
I always felt he plant would grow more freely with its roots
unbound.

They would have a good place in a tank with little or no substrate,
or perhaps while you are planning an arrangement and want to see
how things look.
-- 
Jim Hurley --> jimh@ultra.com  ...!ames!ultra!jimh  (408) 922-0100
Ultra Network Technologies / 101 Daggett Drive / San Jose CA 95134
From: assana@polkadot.Eng.Sun.COM (Assana Fard)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [ALL] Use of Headers in posts
Date: 15 Oct 92 21:13:20 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc., Mountain View, CA
NNTP-Posting-Host: polkadot

In article <1992Oct15.155843.11575@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Paul A Prior) writes:
>
>I always get this confused even though I've been reading this group 
>for 3 years now... should we use "()" or "{}" or "[]"?

Now, does anyone know what's involved in splitting a newsgroup?
I, personally, don't find time to read news that often, and when I do, don't 
mind reading [M] subjects although I have a [F] tank. 

However, we could have a rec.aquaria.fresh, and rec.aquaria.salt, and this way
everyone will be happy! :)

[the same thing happened to rec.pets: the dog people got pissed off at cat articles
and cat people at dog articles, and nwo there is rec.pets.cats, and rec.pets.dogs :)]
--
         ^-^
        /o o\
       ===^===   assana@polkadot.eng.sun.com
          -   
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: cliff@watson.ibm.com (cliff)
Subject: Shaking crud into new tank
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 13:17:48 GMT
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: A

In order to increase beneficial bacteria in a new tank, I take the sponge
from an established tank and shake it under water.  Lots of crud comes
from the sponge into the nice new tank.  Almost breaks my heart to see
the dirt go into the clear waters of the new tank!  Am I doing a good thing
by introducing this crud into the tank for the purpose of bacterial seeding?
Thanks 
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: dougo@wam.umd.edu (Douglas Bruce Olson)
Subject: Re: Single Species Tanks
Organization: University of Maryland, College Park
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 20:09:54 GMT

>>Preference question for a single-species tropical fish tank.  Would readers
>>rather have a large tank filled with 100's of red swordtail fish, or 100's
>>of tiger barbs?  Thanks.

>quite the life of the tank.  Plus they are live bearers and I personnally 
>enjoy being a "mom" to a bunch of cuties. They grow fast and are so tiny to 
>start with

	I agree with the "mom" part, but as I already have 15-20+
swordtails (I orginally bought four, 3 females, 1 male), and looking
at the tiger barbs with wanting, that I'd take the barbs. 

	But then again, I'd take any fish in a Pet Store over what I
have... err, well, over the swordtails. ALL fish in a fish store look
better than what you've got.

	All saltwater fish look good when you've got a freshwater
tank.

.
From: 01mbmccabe@bsu-ucs.uucp
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: [M][All]New Technology
Date: 15 Oct 92 05:44:26 GMT
Distribution: world

Anyone heard of the completely computer-controlled, closed environment marine
system being developed?  I can't remember off hand who's responsible for it
(it's in one of my fish mag.'s), but it goes for some where in the neighborhood
of $200,000 and occupies a rather large room.  It is sounds like a very
significant jump in the Marine fishkeeping hobby, because this system is
supposed to make breeding of marine fish much more possible.   I guess several
species never before bred in captivity have been bred in this system.   
Anyone?  (I'm gonna try to find where I read the specifics.:] )

			-matt
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:7922 alt.aquaria:5280
From: rbennet1@neumann.une.edu.au (Robert Bennetts.)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: [M] Protein Skimmer Question
Date: 9 Oct 92 12:54:07 GMT
Followup-To: rec.aquaria


	Hi all...

	This is a very simple question.
	Could any one tell me whether or not putting my protein skimmer in the sump of my trickle filter reduces it's efficiency, in that it is filtering water that has already been filtered (albeit in a completely different fashion).

	My Trickle filter is almost completely up and running, in a little while, I will post how I DIYed it etc,  and all the drama that has been involved in getting it up and running.

	Cul8r

	Ross Bennetts...

		rbennet1@neumann.une.edu.au


Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: AS.CCB@forsythe.stanford.edu (Christopher Bekins)
Subject: Re: Large Anemones
Organization: Stanford University, California, USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 22:10:13 GMT

kncarp@nicsn1.monsanto.com (Kevin N. Carpenter) writes:

> Although my anemones eat thawed once-frozen shrimp
> they really go nuts over fresh ... ones.
                 ^^^^

 How do you know???
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier)
Subject: Re: Water changes
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 92 15:39:46 GMT

cliff (cliff@watson.ibm.com) wrote:
: filter.  Ocassionaly I dump "Cycle" in it.  Does this really have a 
: beneficial effect?

Probably not.
 
: Should I begin to do weekly water changes, or is it to early?  One recent
: post suggested that water changes should not be done on a young tank because
: it will deprive bacteria of nutrients.  When is the best time to start
: water changes for a new tank?  Thanks.

Well, I haven't seen any data on the matter, but...
when cycled, the ammonia and nitrites in a tank are pegged at
zero.  It seems clear to me that, as long as they are above
zero, there is plenty of "food" to get your bacteria beds going.
In my experience, water changes don't slow the process at all,
and keep the fish in the tank happy and healthy.  Mind you,
do the water changes with dechlorinated water, etc. - I'm
willing to dump chlorinated water into a mature tank, but I'm
sure chlorine does inhibit bacterial growth.  After all, that's
what it's for...

--
"They thought to use and shame me but I win out by nature, because a true
freak cannot be made.  A true freak must be born." - Geek Love

Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: nagel@ucsu.Colorado.EDU (Kurt Nagel)
Subject: Re: Copper Removal
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 04:22:44 GMT

mhatz@nyx.cs.du.edu (Mike Hatz) writes:

>What is the best way(s) to remove copper from a tank that already has it present
>in the water?  Thanks.

	Use polyfilter.  Sections of this filter material can be buried in your
gravel, but better to put in your external filter where it will see more water
flow.  Another product, which is supposed to be even better is ChemiPure, which
is a crystaline poweder in a filter back which is also placed in your external.

	I recently had a bacteria problem due to metal content in my marine
tank.  Recommended solution 1/2 treatment of marycin for four days, followed by
polyfilter filtration.  Tank looks great andbacteria/algae buildup is very 
manageable.

Kurt
nagel@fido.colorado.edu

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: harrism@aquila.rtp.dg.com (Mike Harris)
Subject: Re: (DIY) Aquarium Design
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 92 19:31:39 GMT
Reply-To: harrism@dg-rtp.dg.com
Organization: Data General Corp., Research Triangle Park, NC

	I'm interested in building some custom aquariums for my house
 	and office. The type of design would primarily be for wall
 	mounted "picture" aquariums - i.e. narrow (4-6").
 
 	I'm interested in the computations/rules of thumb that are used
 	to determine the required glass thickness as well as glue joint
 	strength to determine if additional support is required.
 
 	Other information concerning traps, pitfals, construction
 	techniques, waterproofing techniques, etc. would be appreciated.
 
 	I envision using glass for the front with plexi back and sides.
 	Wood would be used for the outer frame - if for nothing else but looks.
 
 	I am aware that ASTM and similar guides are available but I don't
 	have any experience applying the information contained therein.
 
 	I am not seeking "everything you know in one response" - instead I
 	would like to initiate a discussion. I would appreciate the opportunity
 	to discuss this with anybody with *any* experience in this regard. 
 	Online or offline as net interested dictates.
 
 	regards, Mike
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: walter@optimla.aimla.com (Walter Hunt)
Subject: Flourescent lights and quick-disconnects
Reply-To: walter@optimla.aimla.com (Walter Hunt)
Organization: OptImage Interactive Services Co., L.P.
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 92 16:57:09 GMT



	After reading a post earlier on this group about how someone installed
plug connectors on their hood lighting wires to allow removal of the hood, I
decided that would be useful in my own tank. So I went down to Fry's and bought
a couple plug connectors. Then I ran into a question:

	If I install these connectors, am I going to be causing harm to my
lights/ballasts by disconnecting/reconnecting the lights while powered?
(Obviously, I can just always turn the lights off first, but that would reduce
the utility.)

	Any ideas?

-- 
Walter Hunt					walter@optimage.com
OptImage Interactive Services Company, L.P.	walter@aimla.com
11040 Santa Monica Blvd., Suite #300		uunet!{optimage,aimla}!walter
Los Angeles, Ca. 90025				(310) 445-5718
From: drake@Autodesk.COM (Dan Drake)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Question about people who have questions about algae problems [F]
Date: 12 Oct 92 22:56:58 GMT
Organization: Autodesk Inc., Sausalito CA, USA

raible@cbmvax.commodore.com (Bob Raible - LSI Design) writes:
> In article   writes:
> ... Also a large pleco will subject your
> plant stems to quite a beating.  ...
> Robert J. Raible              EMAIL:raible@cbmvax.commodore.com
> VLSI Program Manager           or: {uunet|rutgers|pyramid}!cbmvax!raible
> Commodore Business Machines     "my comments, not Commodore's, ok ?"

Ummm... I just converted from a large-variey pl*co to a bristlenose, and
my plant stems still take an occasional severe beating.  Of course, it
could be somebody else at fault.  But I think we may be running into
more of the wide variation in fish behavior that causes so many
arguments here.  I used to think that nothing less than a cat could have
enough brains to be really idiosyncratic, but keeping fish has changed
my mind.

--
Dan Drake
drake@Autodesk.com
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: anbo@wuee1.wustl.edu (Albrecht Jander)
Subject: Re: cost of Dupla heating system
Organization: Washington University, St. Louis Mo.
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 14:42:13 GMT

In article <2800223@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM> booth@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (George Booth) writes:
>In rec.aquaria, dresler@cabell.vcu.edu (Dan Resler) writes:
>
>    Is it just me, or do others think that the Dupla heating cable
>    system is *way* over-priced? Why is it so expensive? Does anyone
>    know of a comparable product, or if one is currently being developed?
>
>Yes, it seems *way* overpriced.  It is so expensive because of the same
>reason Mercedes are "overpriced" - extensive, expensive engineering. 
>Most of the German products seem to share this trait - Dupla, Tunze,
>Dennerele (?).  They really work.  I guess you could buy a cheap 
>system that may or may not work.  If it doesn't work, you could buy a 
>little more expensive system that may or may not work, and eventually 
>pay as much as if you bought a Dupla system to start with.  To say 
>nothing of the cost of lost specimens and the cost of your frustration.  
>Dupla products have always worked very well for me.  I can't say as much 
>about most other products.  It's your money. 
>
>BTW, it's not the importer "price gouging" either.  Dupla products cost
>as much or more in Germany as they do in the U.S. 
>
>If you are interested enough to pay for a phone call, give Andrew Thomas
>at Little Ocean Products a call (503 344-3474).  He may be working on
>a line of freshwater related products.  A show of interest may spur him on.
>
>    On a related topic, would using a low-temp heating *mat* under the
>    tank be better than using no substrate heating at all?
>
>Probably.  Let us know how your experiment works out. 

Yeah, it works, but of course it isn't as efficient as coils in the tank.
Ask in a waterbed store for an old heating pad.  Be sure to unsulate well
(styrofoam board?) underneath the pad to get the most for your $$

On a related note, some people mount their flourescent light ballasts
underneath the tank to get some warming.  This is the most efficient way,
since the heat would otherwise be lost.

Albrecht
>
>--------
>George


---------------------------------------------------------------------------
                        Peltier was a cool dude!!
From: cigliano@bu-bio.bu.edu (John Cigliano)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Fastest Fish??
Date: 15 Oct 92 21:20:09 GMT
Article-I.D.: bu.98776
Organization: Biology Department, Boston University, Boston, MA, USA

In article <1992Oct14.202816.16545@cs.ucla.edu> frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier) writes:

>FWIW, the quickest-moving aquatic critter would be the mantis shrimp.
>
Actually, I've read that the movement of a mantis shrimp's claw is the fastest
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: ffujita@s.psych.uiuc.edu (Frank Fujita)
Subject: Re: Boret Heaters
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 04:16:03 GMT

Along a related note, does anybody know where to buy <25w heaters?  My
wife loves bettas and I can't have them in my tanks, and winter is
comming.  I've heard that a 25W is about 5 times too big for a 2 gallon
tank.  So, where are the microheaters?
Frank Fujita
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria