Newsgroups: rec.skiing

            The rec.skiing Frequently Asked Questions List
                              -or-
   Everything you always wanted to know about skiing and were *just* about
   to ask by posting.

   The rec.skiing FAQ is a work in progress and is maintained by glen
   baker (glenb@sr.hp.com) Additions and corrections to the FAQ are 
   welcome. If you have an addition or correction to make please take the
   time to write it out in the format of the FAQ so that I don't have
   to try to figure out how to say what you're trying to say!

   Index:
       1) Warnings  
       2) Equipment
       3) Clothing
       4) Technique
       5) Transportation
       6) Lodging
       7) Miscellaneous
       8) Lest we become too serious

 --------------------- Section 02: Equipment  ---------------------

 2.01) "I'm brand new to skiing. Should I rent or buy equipment?"

   Rent. Don't consider buying your own gear until you've had a chance to
   try out a few different types of equipment. Most rental shops will allow
   you to rent either "basic" gear or "demo" gear. The basic rental gear
   is fine for the first few times on skis but try to rent some demo gear
   before purchasing equipment. 
   You may be tempted to borrow gear from your friends. Unless your friends
   happen to be exactly your size and ability then this is probably a
   bad idea. At the very least you should consider having the bindings
   inspected and adjusted by a qualified technician.

 2.02) "I really like this sport and it's time to buy some of my own 
       gear. What should I buy first?"

   Boots. The best skis in the world will be no fun at all if your feet are
   killing you. Spend a *lot* of time choosing your boots. Try on as many
   different types as possible and walk around the shop for 20 - 30 minutes
   while wearing them in order to discover any hidden pressure points. 
   It's important that the boot fit snugly. If your foot flops around in
   the boot you'll have that much less control of your skis.


 2.03) "Which kind of boot is best: overlapping shell or rear entry?"

   The most sage words of advice on this topic were: "The most important 
   factor in selecting a boot is insuring that the president of the company
   has a foot just like yours". In other words, try 'em both on. Buy the 
   ones that fit best. In general (and there are many exceptions to this)
   the rear entry boots tend to be more convenient (i.e. easier to get on/
   off) but suffer somewhat in performance. The racing community still tends
   to favor an overlapping shell. If you are new to skiing you won't know
   the difference.

 2.04) "What is bootfitting and should I bother to have it done?"

   In general there is no such thing as a boot that fits perfectly when it
   comes off the shelf. It is important that the boot be neither too tight
   nor too loose. A boot that is too tight (typically this will be across
   the arch or on the sides) will cut off circulation resulting in numb,
   cold feet (miserable). A boot that is too loose will allow your foot to
   flop around resulting in abrasions and, more importantly, poor control
   of your skis.

   Bootfitting is the process of customizing a boot to your foot. Most 
   reputable ski shops offer this service although the expertise of the
   staff may vary. While bootfitting may involve adding shims, shaving
   undersoles, or even hacking out padding in the liner the most common
   act is to add a custom footbed or orthotic. People who have orthotics
   swear by them. People who don't have orthotics are either lucky enough
   to not need them or have sore feet. In any event you're probably best
   off to ski in your new boots for a couple of days before making any 
   modifications. When you buy a boot make sure you ask if bootfitting 
   services are included in the price of the boot (they often are). 

   The ultimate in bootfitting is having a boot custom designed to your
   foot. Yes this can be done and yes it is very expensive. The folks
   to contact are the Dale Boot company. 

          Dale Boot
          2150 South 300 West
          Salt Lake City, UT  

          801-487-3649



 2.05) "What kind of skis should I buy?"

   The absolute best answer to this question is that you should go rent
   several different types of skis and buy the ones you like best.
   Many ski areas will allow you to rent demo gear and to swap gear during
   the day. This gives you the chance to realistically compare one type of
   ski against another. If you can't find the time/money to do this kind of
   comparison then here are some very broad comments about certain types of
   skis:

   ALPINE SKIS:

   Recreational: 
     These skis are usually relatively soft and have a GS sidecut. This 
     combination makes them gentle, forgiving, and relatively versatile. The
     major drawback to this type of ski is that it behaves poorly at high 
     speeds or in situations that require quick turns. A good choice for
     the beginner or intermediate skier.

   Slalom:
     Primary characteristics are a strong sidecut, stiff tail, and relatively
     stiff shovel. Originally slalom skis were designed to make quick
     short-radius turns. Due to their design slalom skis *want* to turn and
     tend to complain if you try to ski them at high speeds in straight lines.
     Slalom skis are fun in moguls, tight chutes, and steeps. They tend to
     suffer a bit in crud and powder due to their stiff tips.

   GS:
     You want to ski fast? Get a GS ski. GS skis feature a gentler sidecut 
     than a slalom ski and generally have a softer shovel. This makes the
     ski more suited to long-radius "cruising" type turns. They're also 
     lots of fun at high speed as they are much more stable than slalom skis.
     The softer tip and gentle sidecut make GS skis a good choice for powder
     and crud. One word of warning: while a good skier can crank GS skis 
     through the bumps and make it look easy this is *not* recommended. Most 
     GS skis have a metal layer that can be permanently bent by repeatedly 
     thrashing in the moguls. If you want to ski bumps then try a different 
     ski.

   Extreme:
     While the name may be somewhat daunting these skis are actually pretty
     nifty. Most "extreme" skis feature a slalom sidecut combined with a
     slightly softer tip and tail. This makes for a ski that is very quick
     from edge to edge but performs a bit better in powder and crud than
     a slalom ski. While extreme skis may become a bit annoying at high
     speeds (they twitch) they are great for bumps, powder, crud, and steep
     narrow chutes.

 **************************************************************************
 **************************************************************************
 **************************************************************************
 * Would somebody Puhleese fill this in for me??? I don' know BEANS about *
 * cross country skiing. I'm a downhiller! OK, so sue me! But give me     *
 * some info first!!           ..glen                                     *
 **************************************************************************
 **************************************************************************
 **************************************************************************
   X-C SKIS:

   Waxless: 
     Waxless cross country skis have a "scaled" bottom so that they will
     slide forward and resist backward motion. These skis are a good
     choice for first-timers as they will allow you to concentrate on
     striding, skating, poling, downhilling, and other aspects of technique.
            
   Waxable: 
     These skis require waxing, and proper waxing at that, to be useful.
     Lemon pledge is the recommended wax as you'll be able to see yourself
     but will avoid waxy yellow buildup.

   Skating skis:
     These are a really silly idea and most ice-rinks won't even let
     you use them.

   Telemark:
     This is more a style of skiing and is largely regarded as a Norwegian
     attempt at humour. Proper telemark style requires not only the
     proper ski, but an entire wardrobe consisting of drab grey wool
     socks, funny looking wool pants (tucked into the socks), a sweater
     that looks like it's still on the sheep, and a hat with strings long
     enough to be used for suspenders.

   Mountaineering:
     These are schizophrenic skis for people who can't decide if they're
     into cross-country or downhill.


   The various ski magazines generally publish a brief review of equipment in 
   their first issue of the season, September.  Use the reviews only get 
   obtain a list of equipment which *might* be suitable.  There''s still no 
   substitute for demos and real time spent trying the equipment out.


 2.06) "What length ski should I buy?"

   There are standard formulas relating your skill level, weight and
   height to a nominal ski length. Beginners length's center around 160 
   CM, intermediates around 180 CM and experts around 195 CM.  Weight 
   modifies these by about 10 CM in either direction and some people argue 
   about whether height matters at all.  Note that it is not a good idea to 
   use skis longer than you are comfortable with (don't let ego decide), 
   but once you reach a certain level of proficiency most people can work 
   up to an "expert" lengths with little difficulty.  This is a good reason 
   for renting, rather than buying skis during the learning stages.


 2.07) "What's the difference between "ladies" gear and "men's" gear?"

   Ski equipment is generally unisex. Gear that is labelled "ladies" is
   usually a little lighter weight and softer...both boots and skis.
   Ladies boots are designed to fit the "average" female foot a little
   better.

 2.08) "My friend told me that foam cores suck. I say they're 
       great. Which is better?"

   They both have their strong and weak points. The use of a foam core 
   allows the manufacturers to design a ski that is lighter and therfore
   more responsive. Foam, however, is much less durable than wood which
   means that if you ski real hard you're probably more likely to blow
   up your foam core skis than your wood core skis. Wood cores tend to
   be somewhat better damped than foam which results in a ski that rides
   a little smoother.

 2.09) "I'm tired of paying other people to fix/tune my skis. 
       How can I learn to tune my own skis?"

   There are several good books available on the subject of ski tuning.
   One book that is always mentioned when this question arises is Seth
   Masia's Alpine Ski Maintenance & Repair Handbook. A good resource
   for finding books on tuning as well as the necessary equipment is
   The Third Hand. They can be reached at 916-926-2600.

      Alpine Ski Maintenance and Repair
      Seth Masia
      Contemporary Books
      ISBN 0-8092-4718-6
      $8.95


 2.10) "Hey...has anybody heard about the Tyrolia binding recall?"

   Sigh. Yes we have. The following fine summary was posted to the net.
   The following is from the"Tyrolia Safety Notification" and reprinted 
   without permission.
   -------------------------------------------------------------------
   TYROLIA SAFETY NOTIFICATION

   This notification is to alert you to a potential safety hazard regarding 
   certain models of Tyrolia ski bindings.

   Tyrolia has decided to voluntarily recall certain 1982-1986 model Tyrolia
   ski bindings due to toe and heel lug breakage, which can pose a risk of
   serious injury to skiiers.  If these binding lugs break during usage,
   serious injuries associated with the loss of control could occur, such as
   fractures and soft tissue injuries.  To date, five injuries in the U.S.
   that may be related to a lug failure of this type hvae been reported.

   Please read this brochure carefully.  If your bindings are involved, please 
   stop using them now.  Bring them, along with your boots and skis to your 
   nearest Authorized Tyrolia Dealer as soon as possible.

   Use the following three steps to determine if your bindings are affected.

   1) Identify your Tyrolia Model.  
   The Model number is clearly printed on the top surface of the binding.  If 
   your model is not listed in the accompanying chart, your binding is okay.
   If it is listed please read on.

   2) Check the Lug color.
   Is the color of the toe lug on your binding the same as that listed for your
   model in the chart?  If not, your binding is okay.  If it is listed please 
   continue.

   3) Find the production code on the heel piece.  
   If you look carefully (you may need a magnifying glass), you will see 
   a small four- or six-digit code stamped on the right side of the heel's 
   base.  If neither the first letter nor the last number is noted on the 
   chart, your binding is okay.  If it is on the chart STOP USING YOUR 
   BINDING NOW.

   (1) Model         (2) Toe lug Color       (3) Production codes
                                    First Letter of    last number of
                                    6-digit code       4-digit code
   ------------------------------------------------------------------------
   480               grey            H.....
   290       white or blue           F.....
   280               white           G.....
   230               grey            H.....
   220               white           F or G.....          or ...4
   190               grey            G or H.....     
   180               white           G.....
   177               grey            H.....
   170               white           F or G.....          or ...4
   90 Junior         white                                ...4
   80 Junior         black                                ...4 or 2

                    NO SKI BINDING WITH RED LUGS ARE AFFECTED.

   If your binding is of a model, toe lug color, and product code shown 
   on the chart, please take your binding to the place of purchase, if 
   possible, or the nearest Tyrolia Authorized Retailer, for evaluation. 
   Recalled product returned to the retailer by April 30, 1988--the end 
   of the ski season--will be replaced with a Tyrolia binding of at least 
   the same quality, at no charge for the product or remounting.  For
   recalled product returned to the store after April 30, 1988, you will 
   have the choice of a completely reconditioned product at no charge for 
   the product or remounting, or new and current similar model at charge of
   $21 for adult models or $18 for junior models in the United States, 
   including remounting.  In Canada, the charge will be $25 for adult 
   models or $20 for junior models, including remounting.  Resort area 
   dealers have only limited quantities of replacement stock available, 
   so please don't wait until you arrive at a resort to seek a replacement.

   Your safety is our #1 concern.  Please read this safety notification 
   carefully. If you have any questions, call 1-800-343-5999 in the 
   United States or 1-800-265-7252 in Canada for assistance.

   Date of printing, February 27, 1988          Printed in U.S.A.
      ---------------------end of brochure----------------------------------

   Note that the above phone numbers are no longer valid so your best bet
   is to contact your local ski shop as to what to do if you have one of 
   the above mentioned bindings.



Newsgroups: rec.skiing