HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: weissborn@DFWVX1.DALLAS.SDS.SLB.COM
Subject: Re: How to apply laminate adhesive in winter
Reply-To: weissborn@dfwdsr.sinet.slb.com
Organization: Schlumberger Data Services - Dallas
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 93 19:44:28 GMT

In article <1993Jan12.092906.1207@mala.bc.ca>, wagner@mala.bc.ca writes:
>In article <C0potr.G3E@cerc.wvu.wvnet.edu>, smp@cerc.wvu.wvnet.edu (Shailesh M. Potnis) writes:
>> I would like to know if there is a way to apply laminate adhesive in winter.  
>> The adhesive is flammable and warns to extinguish all flames including a pilot
>> light.  My shop shares the heating with rest of the house and I do not want
>> to freeze it's incumbents.  Is there any way around extinguishing the furnace
>> and pilot and applying the adhesive
>> 
>> 	All comments and suggestions are highly appreciated.
>> 
>> 	Thanks in advance
>> 
>> 	Shailesh
>> -- 
>> Shailesh Potnis, Associate	|Concurrent Engineering Research
>> Member of Technical Staff	|Center, West Virginia University

Look in your local Home Depot/Hardware store for Borden's NON-flammable
contact cement.  It is water-based.  I find that 2 coats, 90deg to one
another, sticks real well.  I have used it indoors, next to the 
fireplace and still have all my eyebrows, beard, hair, etc.

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

Bill Weissborn                              
Schlumberger-GeoQuest Data Services
Data Services Region -- System Support Staff Engineer
4100 Spring Valley Rd. Suite 600            weissborn@dfwvx1.sinet.slb.com
Dallas, Tx.   75244                 or try: weissborn%dfwvx1@hub.sinet.slb.com
(214) 980-7924                      or    : dfwdsr::weissborn

"I got to play baseball...I got a chance to hit..."   Ted Williams
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Norm's New Season
Date: 11 Jan 93 18:08:21 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

In article <9301081623.AA18149@TIS.COM> richard@TIS.COM writes:
>C'mon Norm, stick to the basics, like a circular saw
>and a sander. No drill press. No jointer. No planer. No biscuit muncher.
>No blivot maker. No squiblet flurbigator... Gimme some ideas on how to
>do some nice things with my limited resources..!


Wow!  And I thought everyone had a squiblet flurbigator.  I have 3 of them,
so I don't have to change the bits that often.

I suppose Norm keeps up the parade of power tools so he keeps the show's
sponsors happy.  I'm wondering how long it is before he comes up with
a project that uses the new Porter Cable pocket cutter...

Dave
-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
"I look back with some satisfaction on what an idiot I was when I was 25,
 but when I do that, I'm assuming I'm no longer an idiot." - Andy Rooney
From: bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: A Biscuit Joiner by any other name...
Date: 4 Jan 93 18:26:36 GMT
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Distribution: na
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated

FYI,

In the Tool Forum section of the latest FWW (just out) confirmed these
observations:

The DeWalt DW682K biscuit joiner is the same as the Elu 3379K is the
same as the Black and Decker 3382K. Guess if you want one of these
you could choose by color and price (anyone know if the warranties are the  
same?).

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com

PS: I've noticed a similar thing with other B&D-related tools. The new 12"
    miter saws look identical on the B&D and DeWalt names. Prices are the
    same also. Perhaps B&D is seeing which of the 3 will sell the best and
    worst, eventually closing down the poorest seller(s). Or, maybe they'll
    become like GM and offer different trim variants of essentially the
    same "drivetrain."
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: weissborn@DFWVX1.DALLAS.SDS.SLB.COM
Subject: Re: Chess table design
Reply-To: weissborn@dfwdsr.sinet.slb.com
Organization: Schlumberger Data Services - Dallas
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 93 15:05:36 GMT

In article <1993Jan6.230837.808@pixel.kodak.com>, john@ektools.kodak.com (John H. Hall) writes:
>
>I'm trying to design a chess table.  I plan to do the table in maple,

...... STUFF DELETED....

>3. I can wimp out and make the top out of plywood and do the chessboard
>and surrounding wood with veneer.  This feels like cheating, and my wife
>yells at me whenever I use contact cement in the house in the wintertime
>:-).  Also, I'm more confident in my ability to cut and glue up solid
>stock than to cut and position all that veneer, and edgebanding.
>

I use a water-based contact made by Borden's.  Non-flammable, no smell
and seems to hold well.  Cleanup is with water (if you catch the 
squeeze out quickly).  I do find that I have to use two coats (90 deg
to each coat) to get good "stick".

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

Bill Weissborn                              
Schlumberger-GeoQuest Data Services
System Support Staff Engineer
4100 Spring Valley Rd. Suite 600            weissborn@dfwvx1.sinet.slb.com
Dallas, Tx.   75244                 or try: weissborn%dfwvx1@hub.sinet.slb.com
(214) 980-7924                      or    : dfwdsr::weissborn

"I got to play baseball...I got a chance to hit..."   Ted Williams
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
From: de@moscom.com (David Esan)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Norm & Safety
Date: 5 Jan 93 16:52:44 GMT
Organization: Moscom Corporation, Pittsford NY

In article <1993Jan4.235213.8379@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com> billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson) writes:
>Did everyone notice, on the most recent edition of New Yankee Workshop, that
>Norm used table saw without a guard. He did a rip cut, and reached past the
>spinning blade to grab the cutoff piece.  For a person who preaches safety
>at the beginning of each show, he certainly fails to practice it often enough.

I did notice on this week's episode of TOH, when Norm is fabricating the new
columns for the house (a decidedly poor segment by Norm and Steve) that
Norm and Steve wore hearing protecting when using the router.  A first for
the show!

How does Norm do all that work and still hear?  Why doesn't he wear hearing
protection during the NYW?


-- 
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 -->     David Esan      de@moscom.com  
 
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: berry@a.chem.upenn.edu (Don Berry)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Advice on used tools
Date: 11 Jan 93 17:50:37 GMT
Followup-To: rec.woodworking
Organization: University of Pennsylvania

I've got an excellent opportunity to buy some of the tools in
a defunct machine shop, including (old) Delta bandsaws and drill
presses.  I'd appreciate any advice on general things to look for,
test for, or to be especially careful about.  Also, any input the 
following questions would be helpful:

There is a floor model 16in drill press with a 1/2 HP motor - this seems 
a little underpowered.  Is this likely to be a problem for general wood-
working?

There are two 16in Delta bandsaws to choose from: a newer one wired for
3phase 220V, and an older model wired for 115V.  My home shop doesn't 
have 220V at all, but I was considering running more circuits anyways.
Any opinions whether I'd be better off (1) adding 3phase 220 and buying
the newer machine, (2) changing the motor on the newer machine, or   
(3) sticking with the 115V older machine?  All the machines have been kept
in good shape by a responsible machinist, and I can probably get the newer
bandsaw for ca. $200 or the older one ca. $125. No, they're not junk - the
guy accepting bids is a friend.  :)

I'll admit, I'm already drooling over the prospect of adding 2 new power
toys to my collection at bargin prices, and I don't mind buying a few new
parts and spending time fine tuning them.  Still, I'm sure I could benefit
from the collective wisdom of this group.  Thanks.

Don Berry

Department of Chemistry
University of Pennsylvania
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bclaus@cs.wright.edu (Brian Clausing)
Subject: Re: Drying wet wood without cracking, HOW?
Organization: Wright State University
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 09:38:28 GMT

From article <93005.183552SHALEE@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>, by SHALEE@MAINE.MAINE.EDU:
> Another option, if you're not in a hurry is to prevent all shrinkage by
> soaking the wet wood in a solution of water and polyethylene glycol.  Since
> the PEG needs to diffuse into the wood, the larger the piece, the longer
> it takes (days to weeks).  After soaking, just remove from the solution and
> let it air-dry.  This won't last if you let the wood contact liquid water
> though.

A method I have seen used successfully with green hardwood logs is
to cover the ends with tar or pitch and let them dry for a year.
The wood does not check and can be turned.

Brian Clausing
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: john@ektools.kodak.com (John H. Hall)
Subject: Chess table design
Originator: john@ektools.kodak.com
Organization: Eastman Kodak
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 93 23:08:37 GMT


I'm trying to design a chess table.  I plan to do the table in maple,
with a maple and walnut chessboard on the top.  The table top will
consist of the chessboard, framed by a 1/4" walnut strip, and then
by 5" of maple, mitered at the corners.  ASCII approximation:

	       +------------------------------------
	       |\                
	       |  \          maple
	       |    \
	       |     **************walnut*************
	       |     *****    ****    ****    ****   
	       |     *****    ****    ****    ****   
	       |     *    ****    ****    ****    ****
	       |     *    ****    ****    ****    ****
	       |     *****    ****    ****    ****
	       |     *****    ****    ****    ****

I see three ways to do it:

1. Glue it all up from pieces of 4/4 solid wood.  My concern is that even
if the grain of the squares is all parallel, half of the walnut and maple 
surrounding it will be crossgrain.  If the framing pieces are glued to 
the chessboard, I worry what will happen when the humidity changes and 
the wood moves.

2. As above, but make the chessboard and the frame separate, held
together with floating splines on four sides.  That will leave a nice 
crack around the board to collect lint and cookie crumbs, though.

3. I can wimp out and make the top out of plywood and do the chessboard
and surrounding wood with veneer.  This feels like cheating, and my wife
yells at me whenever I use contact cement in the house in the wintertime
:-).  Also, I'm more confident in my ability to cut and glue up solid
stock than to cut and position all that veneer, and edgebanding.

So, can anybody offer me some guidance?  This is for a wedding present
for my ex-cabinetmaker brother, so I'm anxious to do a first-class
job.

Thanks,

John Hall
john@kodak.com
-- 
John Hall, Product Software Engineering
Integration and System Products Division
EASTMAN KODAK COMPANY, Rochester, NY 14653-9121
716 253-7446 / john@kodak.COM / ...!kodak!ektools!john
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: millios@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (william.l.millios)
Subject: Re: HELP: Looking for info on exotic hardwoods (mail order woes)
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: nj
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 18:13:37 GMT

In article <1992Dec29.160709.13922@cbnewsm.cb.att.com> mag@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (michael.affleck.gray) writes:
>In article <1992Dec28.191027.14755@informix.com>, davek@informix.com (David Kosenko) writes:
>> 
>> On the note of hardwoods - does anyone know of a good supplier of hardwoods
>> in the central NJ area?
>
>Try U.S. Mahogany, 746 Lloyd Road, Aberdeen, NJ (908) 583-6300.
>They're a little slow and a little grumpy, but their prices and 
>selection are great.  They don't take credit cards.

They do, however, take personal checks.

Check out the staircases they build, too.
From: saksa@col.hp.com (Tom Saksa)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Resawing with Delta 16 inch bandsaw
Date: 6 Jan 1993 00:12:53 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division
NNTP-Posting-Host: hplsdmj.col.hp.com

golka@bnr.ca writes:
> Thanks, but how wide? were the blades? 1/4", 3/8" 3/4"? I know you aren't
> supposed
> to use grater than 3/8" blades, but I talked to someone who used 3/4" to
> resaw.

  I was using 3/8" blades.  I know that some folks do use wider blades on
  this saw, but I have not tried it.  I do not know if the reason that Delta 
  does not recommend larger blades is an issue of power, tentioning, or
  safety, but see no reason to try pushing the recommended limits.  If I
  really need a saw that takes larger blades I will upgrade to a larger
  model.  

> He mentioned they bind on the guard if they come off the wheels?
> Anyone else using >3/8" blades on a 16" three wheeler?
> 

  After looking over my saw I would also worry about the clearance between
  the blade and the switch plate if a wider blade were used.  This may
  differ on some of the saws, but the clearance of the blade on my saw
  does not seem adequate to allow much more blade width.

  Also, another poster mentioned that bi-metal blades were recommended in
  something he read.  I remember seeing this recommended on a woodworking
  video I saw once.  The reason this person recommended bi-metal blades
  was that the teeth on a bimetal blade can be a metal that does not need
  to flex.  This allows a wider selection of metals to get harder sharper
  teeth that do not loose their temper at 400 degrees F like most single 
  metal blades.

  Although this recommendation made sense to me, I have been told by other
  folks that the bi-metal blades also have problems.  I do not recall the
  problems that were mentioned, but I do remember that the person I was
  talking to felt that the loss of temper in regular blades is almost
  always the result of improper blade selection. i.e. tooth pattern and
  spacing.
  
  If I find a local source of bi-metal blades I will try one or two and
  see for myself how well they do.  I will try a 1/8 inch scrolling blade
  because this is the size I have the most problems with.  You just
  cannot get good chip removal in a blade this size if your wood is 2
  inches or more thick.


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: 78mgb@cbnewsb.cb.att.com (andrew.m.brown)
Subject: German Hand Tools
Keywords: Gouges, Woodcarving, Germany
Organization: AT&T
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 17:20:14 GMT

Hi folks, 
   I'll be vacationing in Germany in May and I was
wondering if anyone can tell me if it is worth buying 
some hand tools while in Germany, and if so where to 
shop.  It is my understanding that the Germans make some
of the finest woodcarving tools in the world.
  Any info. is greatly appreciated.  We'll be starting in 
Munich and travelling through the countryside, and 
eventually heading up near Bremen and Hamburg.  Hope to 
make a trip to Berlin too.

Thanks in advance.
Andy Brown
amb@hou2h.att.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ryan@netnews.smithkline.com (Dominic Ryan)
Subject: DeWalt biscuit jointer, first look, question.
Organization: SmithKline Beecham Pharmaceuticals
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 14:08:30 GMT

I just received my new DeWalt biscuit jointer.  I bought it from Tool Crib
for $229.  It is a very nice machine indeed.  The fence moves with a rack 
and pinion gear and is tight, the angle ajustment is solid and the 90o stop
is also ajustable.  There is little play in any of the movable parts and
even the depth of cut is micro ajustable.  There are lots of clearly visible
notches on the fence showing center lines etc. and they are all in red.  The
plunge spring seems a little stiff to me, but that may change and it is
better to be stiff than loose.  It comes with two chip chute adapters, the
first is simply a deflector that can be swiveled and the second has a larger
exit port for hooking to a vaccum line or to the supplied dust bag.  The
manual states that the bag with fill with about 100 #20 size cuts.  The
gripping pins on the fence (to keep the jointer from skating along the work
under the influence of the rotating blade plunging) are easily retractable.
All the fence bolts are Torx head and they include the appropriate driver in
the case.  They also include a good manual with lots of information in it on
how to get the most from the tool.  A blade wrench is also included and the
unit has a blade locking pin on top to facilitate changing blades.  

Overall this seems to have been very well though out every time I run into
a little detail that makes life easier with it I am left thinking hmm, so
they thought of that too!  Even the storage case is well designed with a
small cubby hole for the dust adapters and tools and the lid has a clip to
store the manual in.  The latest Fine Woodworking has a short review in
the back wherein they state that this machine compares favorable with
Lamello's TOP 10.  I couldn't agree more, although I have only played with
that one in the store.  I do have one concern though and I hope that
anyone else that may have one of these units might be able to offer some
advice.

When the blade is running is *sounds* as though it was rattling a little,
the sound is particularly evident as it slows down when the motor noise has
faded some.  It almost sounds like a washer or bearing is loose and yet the
blade is tight with no visible runout and the cuts are fine.  I don't want
to take this apart yet, I thought I would wait at least 24hrs :-).

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: doshay@ursa.arc.nasa.gov (David Doshay)
Subject: Re: WARNING (response to...)
Organization: NASA-Ames Biocomputation Center
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 17:22:50 GMT

I really appreciate that the tales of accidents reported here have all been
told in a way that focuses on avoidance rather than gore. In that light I
will relate one of my accidents. It took place when I was young, 14 or 15,
but the theme has carried thru, and indeed was the cause of other minor
accidents I have had. I now see this one comming and use extra care.

I was using a bandsaw in shop class to quickly trim a scrap of wood for use
as a sandind block. The quality of the cut was of no consequence, so my setup
of the bandsaw was minimal, and in fact wrong. I did not move the guide high 
enough and the piece started to bind. Instead of stopping and moving the
guide a millimeter higher I pushed a little harder and then found that my
hand pulled backward as far as it would go over my shoulder. I looked over
my shoulder at my hand and saw that there was plenty of blood comming from
the top surface of my ring finger. Fortunately, my reflex action was such that
my hand also closed on contact with the blade, so the result was a cut from the
tip of the finger to the second joint. It went through the nail, but cut no
bone. There is a scar, and the nail is all wavy, but the finger works fine.

So, in addition to the earlier comments about being in a hurry being a "cause"
of my lack of focus, I think that the fact that the cut was for scrap led me 
to be less attentive than I should have been. I have had a few other minor
accidents, and they all were when making a cut on a non-critical piece. Now
I try to be extra careful when the cut "dosen't matter." 

David		doshay@soma.arc.nasa.gov

The thought police insist I tell you:
my thoughts, not NASA's
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: marc@breeze.bellcore.com (Marc F Pucci)
Subject: Re: Dust Masks for Us 4-Eyed Types
Reply-To: marc@breeze.UUCP (Marc F Pucci)
Organization: Bellcore, Morristown, NJ
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 93 21:03:43 GMT

>In article <1993Jan12.135336.340@software.org>, wartik@software.org (Steve Wartik) writes:
>|> 
>|> Okay, we're all computer jocks as well as woodworkers, right?
>|> And computer jocks stare at their screens all day, ruin their
>|> vision, and need glasses.  And glasses interefere with all the
>|> dust masks I've tried.  Has anyone found a brand of dust mask
>|> that works, yet leaves enough of the nose exposed that one's
>|> glasses aren't constantly fighting for position?
>|> 
>|> 				-- Steve Wartik

I attacked the problem from a different angle - I got new glasses
that are significantly smaller than my old, Poindexter style ones.
They ride higher on the nose and don't interfere with the dust mask I wear.

Also look for "comfort ears".  These are the loops that go around
your ears, rather than just on them.  It keeps the glasses in place
so you don't have to adjust them, ever.  They don't slide down.

Marc Pucci
marc@bellcore.com
From: shaw@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Shaw Moldauer)
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 16:37:14 GMT
Subject: Re: If you were going to start a small wood shop...?
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

In rec.woodworking, richard@TIS.COM (Richard Clark) writes:

> 	The real topic though, is: If you were going to start up a small
> wood shop, making tables (coffee, end, dining) and such... Say about a three
> man operation (three real hands-on woodcrafters, overhead and support staff
> extra)... What tools would you buy/find-most-useful/need? Assume a reasonable
> budget, not shoestring, not unlimited. Assume also that one would be using
> some *really* raw wood... like starting from a tree with the bark still on it.
> 

	Wide belt sander.

> 					Richard H. Clark
> 
> 
> -----------------------Relativity Schmelativity-----------------------------
>  Richard H. Clark				My opinions are my own, and
>  LUNATIK - watch for me on the road...		ought to be yours, but under
>  It's not my fault... I voted PEROT!		no circumstances are they
>  richard@tis.com				those of my company...
> -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: waligora@hsi.com (Robert Waligora)
Subject: Re: WARNING
Organization: 3M Health Information Systems, Wallingford CT
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 13:18:16 GMT

My brother nearly lost his eye while working at a job site. He was using a
skill saw, and hit a staple. The staple went into his right eye. He went to
the emergency room, and had 3-followup operations on the eye. Since he was
self employed, he didn't have anyone to blame, or any insurance. He now has
to wear glasses to partially restore the lost vision in that eye. He's
making payments to the hospital for the more the $40,000 he owes them.
-- 
  /--------------------------------\    /-----------------------------------\  
 /          Robert Waligora         \  /      {uunet, yale}!hsi!waligora     \
/           waligora@hsi.com         \/             (203)949-6481             \
From: kl@cveng120.veheng.det (Keith L)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Norm's New Season
Date: 8 Jan 93 20:53:57 GMT
Reply-To: kl@cveng120.veheng.det
Organization: Lukas Woodshop

I don't know...  Once you get a squiblet flurbigator and start using it you'll wonder how you ever got along without it.  If you buy the AMT, you'll wish you would have spent the extra dollars for the Delta, especially when you have to replace its plastic flywheel regularly (Can't beat that Delta cast platinum-rhodium flywheel!!!)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mdc@crux1.cit.cornell.edu (Mark D. Crimmins)
Subject: Re: Delta Radial Arm Saw Alignment
Organization: Cornell Information Technologies
Date:  9 Jan 93 17:13:15 GMT

wthomas@oasys.dt.navy.mil (William Thomas) writes:

>made the unpleasent discovery that radial arm saws don't
>stay in alignment nearly as well as table saws.

>I would like to know from the readers an easy way to set the
>vertical aligment of the saw to 90 degrees, especially without
>havingt to remove the blade guard. My problem is that there is
>slopp in the setting before you lock it in place and I would like
>to consistently set it at 90 degrees.
>bill thomas

Best advice: get Jon Eakes' book "Finetuning your Radial Arm Saw".
Quick hint: set up your saw so that the correct position is at one end
of the slop, then push the saw to that end of the slop before locking
it. 

For more on how to set your saw precisely, see the book.

Mark Crimmins
mdc@crux1.cit.cornell.edu
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU