HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: johnh@tigger.rl.af.mil (John Hawthorne)
Subject: Re: Good mail-order source was Re: ditto for 'n' gauge
Organization: Rome Laboratory, Network Design Facility
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 19:14:03 GMT

In article <3046@tymix.Tymnet.COM> romeo@niagara.Tymnet.COM (Michael Stimac) writes:
>In article <jack-301292161832@compstore.jpl.nasa.gov> jack@sybil.jpl.nasa.gov (Jack Kobzeff) writes:
>>In article <3039@tymix.Tymnet.COM>, romeo@niagara.Tymnet.COM (Michael
>>Stimac) wrote:
>>> 
>>> In article <1992Dec29.191640.8483@pool.info.sunyit.edu> johnh@tigger.rl.af.mil (John Hawthorne) writes:
>>> >
>>.... relate my experience with The Train Master in
>>> >Albany NY.  They are N scale specialists who seem to have a good
>>> >selection.  Last winter I ordered 2 cabooses from them that I could
>>> >not find elsewhere.  They processed the order against my credit card,
>>> >then notified me that the items were backordered.  They later informed
>>> >me that the cabooses had never been in stock and would not be, due to
>>> 
>>> I had a similar experience with a place in South California called
>>> Lambert......
>>> 
...
>In both my case and the one John Hawthorne mentioned, there IS NO
>'processing' to be done, because the company isn't going to ship
>any product. They don't have the item(s) you ordered.
>
>I have no problem with the company making sure my payment is good
>(check or credit card) before sending out merchandise of value.
>My point is, they should not deposit my money in their account
>if they have nothing to offer in return.
>
>Basically, you have pointed out that what I am complaining about
>is "policy" and the company followed their "policy" and I shouldn't
>complain. You are wrong. I am the customer, and I can choose to
>spend my money anywhere I damn well please, for any reason I
>choose.  One such reason is that the company has a policy which
>I do not care for.

I have no problem with a company making sure that my check is good
before processing an order.  (But I prefer a credit card to avoid
this delay)  My main complaint about The Train Master is that THEY
cancelled the backorder and then refused to credit my charge card
without a written letter from me -- NOT an advertised policy.

>And, I wish you lots of luck in business if you think that "company
>policy" is more important than customer good will!

Amen!  The Train Master finally credited my account, and it only cost
me a 29 cent stamp and the time to write a complaining letter, which
included the following:
   "You must expect that your satisfied customers will tell their
   friends how nice it is to shop at the Train-Master.  You can
   rest assured that I too will not hesitate to tell others how
   I feel about your service."
To this, The Train Master replied: "with an attitude like yours,
you will do us more good than harm", thus inspiring me to continue
this thread!

John Hawthorne

Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: s_fuller@iastate.edu (Steve Fuller)
Subject: Holding down rails * ties
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames IA
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 16:50:22 GMT

I was wondering a few things before I start working on my first
serious layout:

I was thinking of using premade track instead of laying my own
ties and rails. What is the best way to hold the track down? Can
it be done using just glue and ballast, or is there another
preferred way?

If I use premade track, is there an easy way to get rid of the
ugly end ties that companies like atlas usually use???

Would a better method, from a realism standpoint, I don't mind if
this takes a long time to build, be to handlay my own track and
use commercial turnouts??

All track will be N gauge and Nickel Silver, I've had bad luck
with Brass in HO and would like to not repeat the experience....

Thanks for the info


-- 
---------------------=------------------------------
Steve Fuller	     = 
s_fuller@iastate.edu =   No witty quote here yet...
---------------------=-----------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: jck@mercury.ncat.edu
Subject: New guy interested in Computer control of layout
Organization: North Carolina A&T State University
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 21:36:07 GMT

I'm returning to the hobby after a long break.  As an EE, I'd like 
to combine my two loves.  I've read a few articles in Model Railroader 
and asked the guys in the hobby shop and local club, but I've not 
found the kind or amount of information I want.

I want information that:
	1. describes an interface architecture, its good and bad points.
		(direct pc plug-in cards, serial port interconnect,
		printer port interconnect, etc...)
	2. describes the use of a computer to act as the dispatcher.
		(I don't fully understand the responsibilities of the
		dispatcher.  good info here would help.)
	3. gives examples of layout features that add to the
		fun/challenge. (incorperate the "Timesaver" in the
		layout)
	4. describes the operation of prototype signals
		(beyound red=stop.  red over red, etc...)
	5. indicates who has good inexpensive signals

I'm sure I'll think of more as I dig into this stuff.

thanks
jck
From: thompson@woolly.East.Sun.COM (Keith B. Thompson - SMCC)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: Resistance soldering
Date: 12 Jan 1993 14:04:16 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems - Chelmsford MA
NNTP-Posting-Host: woolly.east.sun.com


anybody with a recommendation for a resistance
soldering unit. the only ad i've found in MR is
for HOTIP from PBL, has anyone used this?

i seem to remember an article in MR on the
subject a while ago but cannot locate it.

any info would be of help.

thanks,
kbt
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: lizakre@snybufva.cs.snybuf.edu (Rob Lizak Jr.)
Subject: ftp site jdb.psu.edu
Organization: J. Random Misconfigured Site
Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1993 20:43:00 GMT
X-Posted-From: snybufva.cs.snybuf.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: sol.ctr.columbia.edu


Hello...

   I know the userid for the ftpsite jdb.psu.edu is trains, but could some soul
please repost the password for this site?  thanks...

--Rob Lizak Jr.
lizakre@snybufva.cs.snybuf.edu
From: pierson@empror.enet.dec.com (dave pierson)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: Re: Sources for electrical parts?
Date: 6 Jan 93 01:42:09 GMT
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation

One source for economical acquisition of parts is Ham Radio Flea markets.  What
shows up will vary, but it can be very cheap, with some skilled and
knowledgable shopping. 

thanks
dave pierson			|the facts, as accurately as i can manage,
Digital Equipment Corporation	|the opinions, my own.
40 Old Bolton Rd		|I am the NRA.
Stow, Mass, USA	
01775				pierson@msd26.enet.dec.com
"He has read everything, and, to his credit, written nothing."  A J Raffles
From: spangler@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Bill Spangler)
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 19:04:28 GMT
Subject: Re: HO Scale Modules
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad

> I am also interested to find out if there is a similar set of guidelines
> for HO-TRACK (?) as well.  I am in the planning stages of building an 
> HO layout, and would like to start the actual construction of the new
> layout by building a (removeable) module.

Is there any modular standard for G-gauge?  My brother is about to start on
an indoor G-gauge (REA/Aristo) layout, and asked for advice.  It seems like
having some of it based on modules could be useful, and if a good standard 
exists it would make sense to use it.

Bill Spangler
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: cb@oddjob.mitre.org (Christopher M. Byrnes)
Subject: Re: Laying Flexible Track
Organization: The Mitre Corp., Bedford, MA.
Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1993 00:07:47 GMT

In article <1993Jan12.165641.12709@uc.msc.edu> wes@uf.msc.edu (Wes Barris) writes:
|In article <DAVE.93Jan12141700@dross.auspost.com.au>, dave@auspost.com.au (Dave Cole) writes:
|> The book says to use cork strips between the track base and the track.
|> The first problem I had was that the cork does not go around curves -
|> someone told me to cut the cork into two thin strips, then run them in
|> parallel.  Is there another way?
|The cork strips I have seen in hobby stores are sold in "pairs".  There
|should be a diagonal cut almost all of the way through the strips of cork.
|You need to pull these two pieces apart.  The resulting pieces are easily
|bent around curves.
  If your supporting roadbed (cork, homosote, vinyl board, etc.) is
fairly thick and hard to bend, try cutting some thin pie-shaped wedged
at the curved areas.  That should make the board easier to bend
without any vertical kinks.
--
					Christopher Byrnes
					The MITRE Corporation
					202 Burlington Road
					M/S A378A
					Bedford, Mass. 01730-1420

					cb@Mitre.org
	...!{att,decvax,genrad,ll-xn,philabs,utzoo}!linus!mbunix!cb.UUCP
Organization: St. John's University
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 10:05:08 EST
From: Michael S. Holtzman <HOLTZMAN@SJUVM.BITNET>
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: Walk-around throttle Recommendations

Greetings.  I am about to purchase a walk around throttle for my HO home
layout.  Any recommendations???

I have looked at MRC ControlMaster 20, Innovator 3000, and Startec Hogger.
Any opinions on these ??  Or any favorites that I missed ?? Any brand
to stay away from ??

Thanx in advance.
From: x90ochs2@gw.wmich.edu
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: Re: Holding down rails * ties
Date: 5 Jan 93 15:41:51 EST
Organization: Western Michigan University

In article <s_fuller.726252622@vincent2.iastate.edu>, s_fuller@iastate.edu (Steve Fuller) writes:
> I was wondering a few things before I start working on my first
> serious layout:
> 
> I was thinking of using premade track instead of laying my own
> ties and rails. What is the best way to hold the track down? Can
> it be done using just glue and ballast, or is there another
> preferred way?
> 
> If I use premade track, is there an easy way to get rid of the
> ugly end ties that companies like atlas usually use???
> 
> Would a better method, from a realism standpoint, I don't mind if
> this takes a long time to build, be to handlay my own track and
> use commercial turnouts??
> 
> All track will be N gauge and Nickel Silver, I've had bad luck
> with Brass in HO and would like to not repeat the experience....

Use flex track, I think it doesn't have the slots in the ends of the ties
like snap track does. They usually come in 3' lengths in HO, I don't know
what the length is in N, but I think it's also 3'.
They should also come in both Nickel Silver and Brass...

Hope this helps,
Fred
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: pgifford@reis36.alleg.edu (Pete Gifford)
Subject: Power Packs
Organization: Allegheny College
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 19:42:02 GMT

Since my son innocently (!) broke the control off one of my power packs on  
my N-guage layout, I am in the market for a new one.  I have glued the old  
one, but this is as good a reason as I can come up with to upgrade :-)

I have been looking at the MRC 2800 dual control.  At about $40.00 mail  
order it looks like a good choice for a poor boy like me.  Any opinions?

Also, how much difference does guage (N to HO) make in a power pack?  Are  
they interchangable or will it hurt something to use an N-guage power pack  
on an HO layout?

Pete Gifford
Allegheny College
pgifford@alleg.edu
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: ardie@UIUC (R.D. McClary)
Subject: Re: K-line beacon tower help
Organization: Department of Plant Pathology
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 21:04:28 GMT

In article <1993Jan5.151021.3460@oucsace.cs.ohiou.edu> tysko@oucsace.cs.ohiou.edu (John E. Tysko) writes:
>From: tysko@oucsace.cs.ohiou.edu (John E. Tysko)
>Subject: K-line beacon tower help
>Date: 5 Jan 93 15:10:21 GMT
>
>  My son received some money for Christmas, and promptly 
>went to the hobby store to buy something for his new Lionel.
>One of the things he bought was a K-line rotating beacon tower
>(the read and green lights they use at airports). The problem
>is, it won't rotate. I ballanced the lenses so they don't
>drag, and used graphite on the top of the bulb to reduce 
>the friction, but it still wont turn. Can anyone give me a
>hint on how to get it to spin?
>
>Thanks.
>
>John
>
>
>one that they 
>-- 
>  John Tysko                                          tysko@boss.cs.ohiou.edu
>  Systems Administrator & Postmaster of OhioU.Edu     tysko@oucsace.cs.ohiou.edu
>  Computer Science Dept. - Ohio University            1 - 614 - 593-1137

The tower I once had (actually a Marx; the K-line is the same except for the 
name) had a Lionel rotor.  It also refused to turn unless it was almost 
perfectly level!  It took some cursing, but I found that bending the pin 
SLIGHTLY in the direction in which it leans fixes the lean.  Also, make sure 
the vent vanes are all bent to the same degree.  They are also affected by 
air currents (forced air heating, cooling fan, etc.).  Once you DO get one 
going, it goes quite well.  Good luck.
From: hill@madrone.eecs.ucdavis.edu (Rich Hill)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: Re: Request: Viewing sites (Bay Area)
Date: 8 Jan 93 06:26:49 GMT
Distribution: ba
Organization: U.C. Davis - Department of Electrical Engineering and Computer Science

In article <28258@dog.ee.lbl.gov> wbrown@bevsun.bev.lbl.gov (Bill Brown) writes:
>In article <1ifn2bINNnvj@jethro.Corp.Sun.COM> sdm@pyramid.Corp.Sun.COM (Scott Mann) writes:
>>   ...
>>Don't forget Roaring Camp next to Henry Cowell State Park in Felton.
>>They run a steam train up an 18% grade!  They also run a diesel (GP9)
>>from Felton to Santa Cruz during the summer.   ...
>
>I could be wrong, but I think it's a "CF-7" - originally a F-7 which
>Santa Fe converted to a hood unit.  Perhaps a

Yep, the units (2600 and 2641) are CF7's.  Additionally, the grade on the
narrow gauge line is more like 8% than 18% (!!).
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: simpsoj@gov.on.ca (Julian Simpson)
Subject: Re: Software tool for pike layout
Organization: Government of Ontario
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 17:32:02 GMT

In <C0I6Gp.IHt@bcstec.ca.boeing.com> rfweber@bcstec.ca.boeing.com (Robert F. Weber) writes:

>Have any of you tried a software package called "Design your own RR" made
>by Dill Software, Eugene, Oregon, and published by Abracadata, Ltd?
>It's supposded to allow precision design, to scale (HO, N, O, Z, S and G)
>layouts and run realistic railroad simulations.  Priced at about $40. 

I recently got a copy of this software (an Xmas gift). I have not had
much time to play with it, but I can give you what I know so far ....

* The software allows you to specify the size of your layout platform
(i.e. 4 ft by 8 ft, etc.) It will only accept rectangular shapes. L
shapes are adapted byt running the track off the edge of the table.

* You can specify the gauge you are using. It supports N, HO, and about
3 others. As you draw curves, it limits you to the minimum radius
supported for the guage you have selected.

* I found that getting one end to match up to where I started was a bit
tricky. Also, when you join sections, you have to ensure that a switch
is created there. This I also found to be somewhat problematic.

* Once you have a layout set up, you can create multiple trains to run
across them. Trains are built from locomotives, and various types of
rolling stock. You can specify where to put depots and what types of
depots these are (mining, city, types of goods, etc.). The view
presented is from above, with little linked squares representing the
trains. There are 3 types of crash modes. Destructive, reverse
direction, and ghost (where one train passes through the other).
Switching is accomplished by clicking with the mouse on the swith you
wish to change (small dots appear to indicate the direction of the
switch opening).

* Also, there is the ability to add scenery, although theis is very
limited (much like early versions of PC Paint). One annoying feature is
the drawing of an underpass. You must use a special track drawing tool
which renders the track invisible. You can then come back to the scenery
drawing and draw and entrace to a tunnel ot whatever to symbolize an
underpass. It's a bit rudimentary.

* The package allows you to print off scale diagrams of your layouts.

* It is mouse compatable.

* There are a number of sample layouts provided.

* The draing portion allows grids to be turned on, and has a CAD like
feature telling you where you are on the drawing table (X Y points) and
what radius the curve is (if I remember correctly).

All in all, for a gift, it was pretty interesting. It will allow me to
come up with various designs and run trains over them before I commit to
the building stage. I think that this is its best purpose; as a
rudimentary simulation tool to test a layout before you have committed
to it.

If there are any other questions, please feel free to E-mail me at
simpsoj@gov.on.ca.
From: ed@stauff.UUCP (Edward L. Stauff)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: Re: Holding down rails * ties
Date: Tue, 05 Jan 93 21:53:33 EST
Organization: Minstrelsy & Lutherie

s_fuller@iastate.edu (Steve Fuller) writes:

> I was thinking of using premade track instead of laying my own
> ties and rails. What is the best way to hold the track down? Can
> it be done using just glue and ballast, or is there another
> preferred way?

Yup, that's what I did, and it worked fine.  I used a lot of pushpins
to hold the track firmly to the (cork) roadbed while the glue dried.
I used aliphatic resin (yellow woodworker's) glue 'cause that's what
I had on hand.  There may be a better choice, but after 4 years it
hasn't shown any problems.

> If I use premade track, is there an easy way to get rid of the
> ugly end ties that companies like atlas usually use???

Cut 'em off.  After the track is glued down, slide surplus ties under
the rails where they're missing.  The ballast will hide any imperfections.

> Would a better method, from a realism standpoint, I don't mind if
> this takes a long time to build, be to handlay my own track and
> use commercial turnouts??

I've handlaid some track in HO, and I LOVED the result.  Can't beat it, IMHO.
Also IMHO, N scale is too small for handlaying.  (Yes, I know people do it.)

> All track will be N gauge and Nickel Silver, I've had bad luck
> with Brass in HO and would like to not repeat the experience....

Definitely stay away from brass.  Use PECO switches if you can afford them;
they're WONDERFUL.


=============================================================================
Edward L. Stauff, Nashua NH; ed@stauff.UUCP *or* uunet!mv.com!gozer!stauff!ed
        "Specialization is for insects." -- Lazarus Long
From: djenkins@axion.bt.co.uk (David Jenkins)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: Re: Brass locos and painting
Date: 8 Jan 93 14:25:04 GMT
Reply-To: djenkins@axion.bt.co.uk (David Jenkins)
Organization: British Telecom Research Labs


In article <1993Jan7.145513.9586@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com>,
mcclure@NEBULA.SSD.LMSC.LOCKHEED.COM writes:
|> Greetings!  I'm new to this group and equally new to model
|> railroading,
|> but I am an experienced modeler.  I am in the process of painting a
|> brass loco for a friend and since it is in the $300+ range I don't
|> want
|> to botch it up.  I heard a suggestion to prepare the brass by
|> "pickling"
|> it in vinegar to roughen up the surfaces a bit.  Is this a good
|> suggestion and does it have any potential side effects? 

I'm currently painting a 5 inch gauge loco which has brass cladding
around the boiler and cylinders.  The most effective answer I have found
is two-pack automotive primer.  It's a strange yellowish colour, very
watery, and doesn't look like it would cover anything.  What it *does*
do is give a very fine matt finish which is quite difficult to remove
without using solvents; this is ideal for holding the subsequent coats
of normal paint tight on the brass.

Some of these wash primers also etch the metal, but I understand that
these are difficult to buy outside of the auto repair trade as they're
quite hazardous to use without proper protection.

The major disadvantage is cost and quantity - the smallest amount I
could buy was 1 litre each of base and hardener, at nearly 20 UK Pounds
- roughly 30$.  I was fortunate in that I know a professional who let me
have sufficient in a couple of jam-jars (it goes a very long way).

Good luck in your painting - but don't trust to ordinary primer on
brass, as it will flake off eventually.



David Jenkins

Quidquid latine dictum sit, altum viditur.  
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: andre@king.slc.mentorg.com (Andre' Hut)
Subject: Re: Just What I Was Looking For
Organization: /net/king/usr1/andre/.organization
Date: 4 Jan 93 16:42:59

In article <93004.44802.L616015@LMSC5.IS.LMSC.LOCKHEED.COM> L616015@LMSC5.IS.LMSC.LOCKHEED.COM writes:
   >    Hello all you model railroaders out there! Guess what? Another newbie. The
   >wife got #1 son a HO gauge railroad set for Xmas (with "The ABCs of Model Rail-
   >roading" for daddy, thank God).
   >    Anyway, here's my problem. I think I finally traced the derailment problem
   >to the plastic wheels and wheel carriages on the LifeLine cars ( wheels to
   >narrow, unable to adjust as wheels and axle are one part ). I did use a gauge
   >on the track and that's now ok.
   >    Now the question. I want to replace the LifeLine plastic cars with some-
   >thing better, the question is what. I'd prefer cars that are already built
   >seeing as the boy loves the train, but is still too young to build from a kit,
   >and has no patience for daddy building them. So, any and all suggestions on
   >what manufacture is best (rugged) will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in
   >advance.

Jon,

	The answers to your questions can be found in the FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions)
list that is periodically posted to this newsgroup.  However, in short, It sounds like you
want to move on to better quality than what LifeLike can give you.   LifeLike in general
is junk, unless you are talking about their Proto 2000 stuff, which is top of the line.

If you want some better cars, look at Athearn and MDC.  There will be some assembly
required.  They just don't make the good stuff ready to run.

If you really hate the wheels, you can replace them.  KD makes great wheels.

--
-------------------------------------------------------------------
My opinions are solely my own, and do not necessarily reflect those
of my employer.

Andre' Hut       andre@slc.mentorg.com  or  utah-cs!caeco!andre
Mentor Graphics, Suite 300, 5295 South 300 West, Murray, Utah 84107
-------------------------------------------------------------------
From: dermer@convex.csd.uwm.edu (Marshall Dermer)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: Marklin Sweatshirt (Large) for Sale or Trade
Date: 12 Jan 1993 03:50:04 GMT
Organization: Computing Services Division, University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: 129.89.7.30
Originator: dermer@convex.csd.uwm.edu

Do you have any C&NW or AMTRAK HO equipment you would like to trade
for a Marklin (size large) sweatshirt featuring a crocodile locomotive?

I would guess the shirt is worth about $12.  It is new. 

On a somewhat related matter, I purchased a beautiful C&NW motif tee-shirt
for $10 at the Grand Avenue Mall in downtown Milwaukee.  The shirt features
a design by John T. McCarthy Jr. which includes an F-7 in C&NW paint (lots
of yellow and green here) pulling out of the old C&NW station (represented
by a red brick tower in the background) with a passenger consist bound for
Minneapolis/St. Paul (represented by The "400" i.e., it is approximately 400
miles between Chicago and the Twin Cities).  A similar poster was also for
sale at a higher price.  Perhaps someone will market these items in _Model
Railroader_ or _Trains_. Alternatively, John may be listed in the phone book
here.

I, of course, am not associated with Mr. McCarthy, Marklin, etc.

\\\\\\Marshall Lev Dermer / Dept of Psychology / University of Wisconsin--////
\\\\\\Milwaukee/ Milwaukee, WI 53201 / USA / dermer@convex.csd.uwm.edu///////
 "The earth is a medium-sized planet orbiting around an averaged size star
in the outer suburbs of an ordinary spiral galaxy, which is itself only one
of about a million million galaxies in observable space."  S. Hawking, 1988
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad