HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: dh7717@meibm26.cen.uiuc.edu (Doug Craig Hanshaw)
Subject: Re: Bottom bracket infernal eternal clicking!
Followup-To: Bottom bracket infernal internal clicking
Organization: CCSO College of Engineering Workstations
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 22:50:46 GMT

In article <66988@cup.portal.com>, sbixby@cup.portal.com (Steven W Bixby) writes:
|> 
|> I've got a Univega Team Alpina with XT parts, and the original XT bottom
|> bracket.  I like the bike and all that, but the (@#$@ BB keeps coming
|> loose and clicking again.  So I readjust and all's well for awhile. Not
|> a very long while, tho.
|> 
|> 
|> Whaddya think?
|> 
Shimano has been having slight problems with their new cartridge bottom
brackets.  The adjustable plastic ring tends to come loose under heavy stress.  If you have a new cartridge B.B. you should go to your local bike shop and have them try to Locktite the ring. Shimano is supposedly making alloy rings 
available to bike shops.  If Locktite doesn't solve the problem you can replace the rings.  Unfortunately , so far you will have to pay for them.

 -- Doug --

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: oplascencia@pomona.claremont.edu
Subject: SPD pedals: any float?
Organization: Pomona College
Date: 14 Oct 92 10:35:07 PDT

I'm interested in buying a pair of SPD pedals but I'm holding off my purchse
until I hear from other people with knee problems who have used them. I've
heard that they don't have any float. If that's true I would assume that people
with knee problems such as myself cannot use them. Anybody out there got
anything to say?

One more thing. I've heard that Colorado Cyclist sells a titanium upgrade kit
which shaves half a pound off SPD's and makes them a lot smoother. My question
is whether the upgrade kit is worth it?
From: marcus@westminster.ac.uk (Marcus Harvey)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Velo News Suspension Review
Date: 12 Oct 92 15:15:50 GMT
Organization: University of Westminster

In article <00961E58.DC641420@Msu.oscs.montana.edu> uphhsbt@Msu.oscs.montana.edu writes:
>Awhile ago I said that I would e-mail the recent Velo-News review of suspension
>products to anyone who wanted it.  Due to the large number of replies I am
>posting it here.  Mostly it will just be a data table identical to the table
>in the News.  One thing to remember is that a lot of this data could be con-
>sidered "out of date."  For instance, Specialized is coming out with a new
>fork which has adjustable preload (similar to the Mag 20's only supposedly a
>wider range), the Rock Shox Mag-21's are coming out as well as an elastomer
>version, and the new Manitou 2's are also on the way.
>
And does everyone have to ignore the excellent (v. stiff) Pace Engineering
RC-35 elastomer fork (which uses carbon fibre legs for a near Rock Shox weight
of 3lb 2oz) just because it's British?

Marcus Harvey, University of Westminster IRS
JANET: marcus@uk.ac.westminster
INTERNET: marcus%westminster.ac.uk@ukacrl

                                                          ...Bubble Up!
From: gustilo@pop-server.upenn.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Wanted - Comments on Bullseye Pulleys
Date: 14 Oct 92 05:09:47 GMT
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech
Distribution: na
Organization: University of Pennsylvania

greetings,

Performance is having a sale on these things ($16.95/pair) and I am
wondering if these are an improvement over Shimano's XT derailleur pulleys.

I've managed to thrash the ceramic bushing in the Shimano guide pulley
(crumbled into small pieces, could not backpedal at all) and one of the
rubber seals on the tension pulley got chewed up.

thanks in advance


Standard Disclaimer:
  I am not responsible for comments that I make after 3:00 AM or after five
cups of coffee, whichever comes first.
From: gerhard@ukcsd.uk.sun.com (Chris Gerhard - Sun U.K.)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Specalized Speedo problem
Date: 16 Oct 1992 09:03:57 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems Federal, Milpitas, CA.
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: dredd.uk.sun.com

Hi,

I have a Specialized speedo that has worked well since I got it until
this week.  The only change I can think of is that this week the
temprature in the U.K has dropped to about 1 degree C in the morning as
I cycle to work.  I have found that the Maximum speed reading on the
speedo is reading 96 mph.  Now I know I was going fast but 96 mph seems
rather over optimistic. All the other functions seem to be working
correctly.  Has anyone else had similar problems with this beast?

thanks

-- 
Chris Gerhard.
Sun Microsystems Ltd.
U.K. Answer Centre.
Phone: +44 276 691974
From: jbrandt@hplred.HP.COM (Jobst Brandt)
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 17:44:47 GMT
Subject: Re: Re: Overheating brake pads
Organization: Hewlett Packard Labs, Palo Alto CA
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech

Jeff LaCoss writes:

> I've SEEN a set of pads burn (flames) at the bottom of a long
> descent.  It was a cheap bike and a long time ago, but I saw it
> happen.

I'm sure you mean this figuratively because brake pads become liquid
before they ignite.  Having ridden with wood rims where practically no
heat is absorbed by the rim, I have experienced melting pads of
several major brands.

> Pads have been manufactured with fins on the back of the holder.
> Heh heh.
> Rubber and plastic are not known as good heat-transfer mediums. The
> brake working surfaces get hot, and the rim gets hot, but the fins
> won't do diddly unless there is a lot of metal filling the pads to
> carry heat away from the working surface.

There isn't any need to conduct heat off the back of the pads because
by the time the heat could get there, you wouldn't care anymore.  As
it is, no pads have metal in them because they run against the best
coolant surface, an aluminum heat sink that has a large surface and is
exposed to the wind.  Heat is generated in the softer of two rubbing
surfaces and in the case of a bicycle brake it is the pad.  The
intimate contact with he aluminum rim makes this a good heat
dissipating combination.

Anodized rims and ones with ceramic coatings frustrate the heat
transfer process from pad to rim and cause more rapid pad wear and
poorer braking by the higher temperature.  Although anodizing is only
several hundredths of a millimeter, at the speed that the rim passes
the pad, only the surface conductivity is apparent in the interface.
The residence time of the ceramic skin is short enough that the hot
pad cannot take advantage of the material behind the coating.

The thick ceramic coated rims enhance braking in wet conditions
because the surface is rougher and it runs hot quickly enough to
affect drying.  The effect of water on rims is best observed when
riding in snow so that the inside of the rim has a continuous coating
of snow.  When the brakes are applied, snow begins to melt and
furnishes a continuous supply of water.  This water prevents brake
recovery that usually occurs when riding in the rain that is caused by
partial drying.

I have found that Cool Stop (red) compound has the best braking and
durability for road use.  These pads neither collect metal shavings
from the rim nor do they fade as many others that I have tried.  They
also wear more than twice as long as some of the others.  In the dirt
they work well but then hard braking isn't such a problem there but
after returning to pavement the fine grit takes a while to be purged.
During this time braking is poorer than when clean.

Generally rim overheating is a greater problem than brake fade,
assuming you use reasonably good pads.  If this is not obvious, then
you need to talk to tandem riders who descend steep hills.  Their
rims often get sizzling hot and require water cooling before the
tire bursts from the rim.

jobst_brandt@hplabs.hp.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: thomas@bitrot.in-berlin.de (Thomas Driemeyer)
Subject: Re: caged vs. loose bearings
Keywords: headset, bottom bracket
Organization: Thomas Driemeyer, Berlin
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 18:30:35 GMT

In article <1992Oct6.040751.25849@leland.Stanford.EDU> sjlt@leland.Stanford.EDU (Sean Lev-Tov) writes:
> The book  said that when
> overhauling the headset, replace caged bearings with loose ones
> so you get 2 more in there.  I'm wondering if it really is a good
> idea and if it really makes a difference.

If your headset comes with caged bearings, I'd leave them in. After a few
years of use, the balls will have punched little depressions into the cups,
causing "indexed" steering (bicycles are ridden with the handlebars in the
same position almost all of the time). You can then replace the caged
bearing with loose balls. Because you put two more balls in than before,
they won't line up with the holes any more, and the indexing is gone.

This won't work with the bottom bracket because, unlike the handlebar, it
tends to rotate a lot.

Thomas
-- 

--
Thomas Driemeyer        thomas@bitrot.in-berlin.de        voice: +49 30 8924936
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: goell@nomad.jpl.nasa.gov (Jeremy Goell)
Subject: Re: Should Trek Replace My Frame ?
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory, NASA/Caltech
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 23:35:48 GMT

In article <92280.120247U3C@psuvm.psu.edu>, <U3C@psuvm.psu.edu> writes:

|> My two year old Trek 930 has formed a ovalized head tube.  The bike's
|> headset is currently being held in place with liquid steel.  This is
|> a temp solution...the headset will come loose again within 100 miles.
|> 
|> I take care of my bike and though the stock headset would come loose
|> during a ride it would always be tightened before the next ride.
|> 
|> In the nets opinion does this situation fall under the lifetime
|> frame replacement policy of TREK???
|> 
|> Thanks in advance...steve Litvin   u3c@psuvm.psu.edu

I'd say it comes pretty darn close, if not absolutely, to being
warranty material.  I would take the bike back to the store you
purchased it from, if this is geographically possible.  Let them
take a look; if you have them on your side, it can make things
easier when dealing with Trek.  If you can't return to the point
of purchase, any authorized Trek dealer can return your frame, so
I would call Trek (800) 879-8735 and tell them you need to discuss
a warranty problem.  They are a pretty fair-minded company, so I
think you might be pleased with the results.

Michael Batchelder
mpb@nomad.jpl.nasa.gov
From: jbrandt@hplred.HP.COM (Jobst Brandt)
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 19:46:53 GMT
Subject: Re: Lennard Zinn article on countersteering
Organization: Hewlett Packard Labs, Palo Alto CA
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech

Oh yes, countersteering.  I'm glad you mentioned it because it is one
of the great discoveries recently made by technical writes.  Before
this discovery riders had difficulty riding other than in straight
lines.  Belatedly it was also discovered that runners and joggers also
could not turn corners without this revolutionary method.

Although it may not be obvious, any balancing scheme in which no
external lateral forces can be used, the lean angle is essential for
control.  Whether you discover it after the fact, think about it
before the fact or ignore it, you must lean to corner whether walking,
skating, bicycling or some other such activity.  For most of us this
activity became subconscious and automatic at an early age.  Zinn and
his associates in discovery make a big thing of it.  It is like
suddenly realizing that the tongue in your mouth is as endangered as
the hand that inserts parts into a stamping press.  If you think about
it you'll bite your tongue.  In fact, if you get an awkward thought
while chewing you will bite your tongue.

Thinking about countersteer can crash your bike.  It's almost as bad
as riding your bike cross handed.

jobst_brandt@hplabs.hp.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: "richard underwood" <richard.underwood@canrem.com>
Subject: sensor for computer
Reply-To: "richard underwood" <richard.underwood@canrem.com>
Organization: Canada Remote Systems
Distribution: rec
Date: 9 Oct 92 00:00:14 EST

To: 2641nabedian@vms.csd.mu.edu

2N>    Subject: Sensor for Computer

2N>I am an electrical engineering student at Marquette University.  As a
2N>project for one of my classes, I have chosen to build a bicycle computer.

Mount a magnet on the spokes, (steal one from a real cycle computer).  
Mount a pick up coil on the forks, (steal that from the same source).
Use shielded cable.

Now feed the resulting signal into a 74HC or similar schmidt trigger
through a high (100K) resistor.  (You may need to amplify the
signal with an op amp if the coil and/or magnet are not big enough.)

Next choose another processor - I like the 68HC11D3 or similar for
this kind of thing.  Everything you need in one chip.  You might
even be able to feed the signal directly into the input capture pin
without the 74HC buffer.

The rest is software and display.

I doubt that an optical system would work well unless the you only
ride the bike at night, then you would need backlighting for the 
display.  What about doppler microwave radar?

2N> Any help will be greatly appreciated.

No problem, its easy to give advice - it's the implementation
that's difficult.

richard.underwood@canrem.com (Richard Underwood)
---
  DeLuxe 1.25 #1711  Now using Qmail DeLuxe...and loving it!
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: blp@cypress.com (Bruce Prickett/PROM)
Subject: Re: Helmets - keeping a cool head
Summary: Be a wet-head!
Reply-To: blp@cypress.com.UUCP (Bruce Prickett/PROM)
Organization: Cypress Semiconductor, San Jose, CA
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 05:34:05 GMT

My two cents: If you get a hot head riding, (and I certainly do!)
wet it down! Even with a helmet, a good bottle drenching can
do wonders, and you can still wear the brain bucket! Of course,
its icky if all you've got is sugar water, so I like to carry
a bottle of the pure stuff. Finally, I think the real reason not
to wear a helmet is the feeling of the wind in your hair :-)
Usually I'm a responsible person, especially on my commute,
but every now and then I cut loose and go for a ride without
my helmet. Oh BOY! Please don't tell my wife!

	Bruce P.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: holliday@cse.unl.edu (david holliday)
Subject: Re: TIME pedal maintenance
Keywords: clipless, time, overhaul, maintenance
Organization: University of Nebraska - Lincoln
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 15:56:38 GMT

>Paul Gatker writes:

> A problem I have had with Time "Racing" pedals is the rear plastic cover 
>that goes over the major spring. On both pedals the cover just flops around  
>as the tiny springs in them have escaped to the road. I fixed the problem
>by prying the covers off completely. Pedals still work fine, are nominally
>lighter in weight, but aesthetically I can't really tell as I can't see the
>back of the pedals while I'm riding them.

I think the covers actually have a useful purpose. Ever been at the start
line of a criterium and tried to get your foot into the pedal as quickly as
possible without the covers on your pedal? The covers serve as a "guide" for
the cleats. Otherwise, it seems that the front cleat has a tendancy to go
into the large spring in the back, rather than the front of the pedal.
These are just my observations.

Dave
----
From: chandler@wc.novell.com (Mark Chandler)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Chris King headset opinion solicited
Date: 8 Oct 92 16:28:07 GMT
Organization: Novell, Inc. - Walnut Creek

In article <1992Oct8.033010.2501@csi.uottawa.ca> kiisaka@csi.uottawa.ca (Ken Iisaka (the mad pianist)) writes:
>I am stunned by how components wear so fast on our Burley Duet.  After 1500
>miles, one chainring, a freewheel, and a headset needs replacing.

Have a good shop check to see that the head tube and fork are properly
faced, etc.

>The original equipment, Tange/Tioga Avenger is getting rough, though it has 
>been maintained properly.  (I mean, my Chorus headset has last 7000 miles on
>my Pinarello, already.)  I could give it a second life by replacing the caged
>ball bearings with loose balls, I am seriously considering getting a better
>quality headset.
>
>I noticed that Steve Roberts is using a Chris King headset on his BEHEMOTH
>recumbent.  I understand that it uses cartridge bearings.  Now, questions to
>those who have had experience with a CK headset.
>
>Are the cartridge bearings easily replaceable?

They are *supposed* to be replaced by King.

>What is the stack height?

There are two models: the shortstack (33mm-35mm) and regular (38mm-40mm)

>How durable is it, anyway ('d better be, at $100 U.S. a set)

The guy that built my new frame said a friend of his (this is starting
to sound like alt.folklore.urban) had a King outlast several high-quality
framesets.

>How well sealed are the bearings?

Almost too well.  If water gets in, it'll have a hard time getting out.
That's why WTB has King make a version with grease ports.  These are
really nice as you can purge out the Evil Stuff (tm) that's known to
kill headsets.  Price is $175-200 (US).

>Other alternatives include Onza and American Classic needle bearing headsets,
>but if cartridges are easily replaceable, I'd consider a CK.

American Classic doesn't make a headset.  You're thinking of Kingsberry.
The two companies are not the same.  I've heard that the Kingsberrys and
onZas are made by Svaedra (sp???) in Spain.

>Ken Iisaka               \ NEXT RECITAL  |12:00 pm, Thursday, January 7th, 1993
>kiisaka@csi.uottawa.ca     \ Produced by |National Gallery of Canada, Ottawa
>AI Lab, University of Ottawa \ CBC Stereo|Berg        Sonata, b minor, op. 1
>H: +1 613 237 6642 W: 564 8155 \ 103.3 FM|Mussorgsky  Pictures at an Exhibition


--
Mark Chandler               Novell, Inc.          510/975-4522
chandler@wc.novell.com      Walnut Creek, CA      510/938-2562 FAX
==================================================================
     The opinions expressed above are mine, not my employer's.
From: chrisv@carnival.lbl.gov (Chris Moll)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Advice on chains..
Date: 9 Oct 1992 20:46:35 GMT
Organization: Lawrence Berkeley Laboratory
Reply-To: chris@carnival.lbl.gov (Chris Moll)
NNTP-Posting-Host: carnival.lbl.gov

Sam Henry writes:
>An easy way to amplify the sound of any grinding (and thus catch the
>problems sooner):  place your ear on the nose of the saddle.

There's side benfit: when I do this, my riding companions always seem
to give me a lot of room.

>All the the grinding noise will travel through the tubes and the
>saddle will act as a sounding board.

If your bike makes as many different noises as mine typically do, you'll
hear such a cocaphany of clicks, squeaks and groans that you'll never
figure out which part it is.  I've contemplated imersing one particular
bike in boiling Phil Wood grease...
--
Chris Moll                       (510)486-7891
---
"Blessed are they who Go Around in Circles, for they Shall
be Known as Wheels."
From: jwgst2+@pitt.edu (James W Gourgoutis)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Can someone give me advice on fenders...
Date: 9 Oct 92 16:24:49 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Pittsburgh

Dear Rec.Bicycles:

	Now with winter fast approaching, I am considering the possibility of
riding my MTB on the snow covered trails in my area.  I am thinking about 
building a lighting system to light my way, and I am also considering getting, 
or making, a set of fenders, to keep myself dry.  What I am wondering is:
1.  How worthwhile are fenders for winter riding off-road?  I am concerned with
	such things as snow build-up under them, possibly clogging the tire.
2.  Of the commercially available fenders, which ones are the best?  I was 
	considering the Zefal MudGuards, since I like the fact that they are
	easily removeable.  However, they don't extend all the way down to the
	BB, and I am worried about that.
3.  Is there any way that I can easily make a set of fenders from common 
	household items?  I've heard about making a front fender from a milk
	jug.  Does anyone know how to do this?
4.  My MTB has a rear seat-stay mounted U-brake.  I am wondering if there will
	be enough clearance under the brake to mount a fender.

	Any other hints would be greatly welcomed!
  
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
James Gourgoutis       				   
Mechanical Engineering                                O   
University of Pittsburgh                           _ /__,     
e-mail me at:  JWGST2@unixd.cis.pitt.edu          (_) /(_) 
	       or JWGST2@vms.cis.pitt.edu
Thanks!           			   "Why am I so late?  It took me 
					    25 minutes to decide which bike
					    to ride!" 
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-       
--
From: truesdel@ics.uci.edu (R. Scott Truesdell)
Subject: Re: bar ends and more.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Organization: University of California, Irvine
Date: 9 Oct 92 17:18:02 GMT
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech

In article <1992Oct8.211225.7438@iscsvax.uni.edu>,
larson9627@iscsvax.uni.edu wrote:
>
> Got a question concerning the "extenders" used for mounting bar-ends.  The
> extenders fit inside of the handlebar and the bar-ends clamp on as usual.  Is
> this really a good idea??

I guess it's ok provided--
  (a) the o.d. of the extenders is matched to the i.d. of the bars.
  (b) the wall thickness of the bars can withstand the expansion
      force of the extenders. For example, I wouldn't use any expander
      on 'HyperLites'.

If you're worried about losing handlebar width, personally, I don't think
it's an issue. Supposedly you lose some leverage but, for me at least, it's
not critical. The new OnZa bar ends have the cinch clamps angled out to
give more width for the hands. Looks like you gain about 1 to 1.5 cm.
Someone must have thought the width was important. Thomas Frischknicht (oh
boy! spelled from (failing) memory) rides Ritchey bars which are narrower
than 'standard', whatever that is, and he excels on rougher courses where
wider bars are a supposed advantage.

Also consider the additional weight and the additional joint (a possible
failure point).

So, in answer to the 'Is this really a good idea??' question, I'd answer:
'No.' Of course this is only one opinion...

> Also, i would like to know some theories on seat positioning for mountain
> bikes, is it the same as for other bikes or something special??

Height, about the same as for other bikes. Possibly a little lower than for
racing raod bikes, but not by much, if at all.

Fore and aft, a little farther aft seems to be the rule. Since most frames
are the ultimate restricting factor in seat position you can simply start
with the seat in an 'average' fore 'n' aft position and make the slight
adjustments from there as you deem necessary.

  --scott
From: perley@trub.crd.ge.com (Donald P Perley)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Since we are talking about pro equip
Date: 9 Oct 92 16:30:11 GMT
	<1992Oct4.224537.258@hpcvusn.cv.hp.com>
	<1992Oct5.202330.5336@netcom.com>
	<casseres-061092135509@missmolly.apple.com>
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech
Organization: GE Corp. R & D, Schenectady, NY 12345

In article <casseres-061092135509@missmolly.apple.com> casseres@apple.com (David Casseres) writes:


+   > 
+   > 20 mph is about the average speed of most people.
+
+   Ah, nothing like science.  What is this "average speed," please?  Averaged
+   over all rides?  Races?  Training rides?  Commuting?  Grocery runs?

Just what he said, I guess.  The average speed, inlcuding the parts
where you slow down on steep hills, stop for red lights, etc.  Figure
closer to 30 on the flat parts.

"Most people" will do a 5 hour century, and have no real use for
clip on aero bars.

Next week we will discuss the average speed of "enthusiasts." 
CHeck the archives for a description of "Real Cyclist."


-don perley
--
perley@trub.crd.ge.com