HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: dmarsh@lsil.com (Don Marsh x6368)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Subject: Brake drop bolt for 27" fork to 700c
Date: 14 Aug 92 20:52:26 GMT
Reply-To: dmarsh@lsil.com
Organization: LSI Logic Corporation


Hello Folks. I am looking for a source for a "thing" I have not seen anywhere
for a few years. It is a brake drop bolt for use on a 27" fork with 700c rims.
My brakes (Shimano Dura Ace) just barely make it down to the rims and I though 
this as a solution. By the way the other solution is to drill out the slot for
the pad shoe bolt "down" thru the end of the brake arm. I don't really feel like
drilling, cutting or getting messed up in cutting the slot so... Any sources for 
the drop bolt device?

	Thanks, Don Marsh (I'd appreciate direct mail if possible as I don't always
	have the time to sort through hundreds and hundreds of postings...)
	(internet address: dmarsh@lsil) 
	
PS: I also disliked the NBC coverage of the olympic cycling events. blech! It was
much too schetchy and drawn out. I particulary hated the way the local news 
interruption said "We'll be back to the olympic coverage IN IT'S ENTIRETY following
this news break!" What the heck (I'll use nice language) does this mean? It certianly
takes away from the consistany of the program and just generally pissed me off when I
had to sit through hours of commercials to see the last 7 minutes of the race(s).
Thanks. I just had to get that off of my chest! 
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
From: ampe@cbnews.cb.att.com (john.e.ampe)
Subject: Re: Canada and Sports Eats
Organization: AT&T
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 17:20:20 GMT

In article <Bt8Iy6.4AG@cs.dal.ca> dewolfe@ug.cs.dal.ca (Anarchy for Peace) writes:
>It might not be the Vitamin A, however Iron can be toxic at levels not
>much higher than what's in a power bar (100% RDA).  Eating three of them in 
>a day *could* be bad news... 

Well, Davis Phinney claims to have eaten several PowerBars a day for
several years.  I'll let you draw your own conclusions...

> (I'm just going on what a nutritionist told me, 
>so no fire OK? :)) 

Sorry, but the first law of Usenet is that to post is to be flamed...

John_Ampe@att.com
From: msw10@nepenthe.as (Michael S. Wong)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Subject: Re: Dual pivot calipers (?)
Date: 18 Aug 92 22:22:59 GMT
Reply-To: msw10@nepenthe.as
Organization: Sun Microsystems


In article 12819@midway.uchicago.edu, kristian@dwayne.uchicago.edu (Kristian Simsarian) writes:
>
>	What are they?  Anyone used them?  They seem to be some sort
>of center pull compromise.  Are they any good?  The top-level
>touring bike from Performance is equiped with them.  Any reason to have
>these instead of cantilevers on a tourer?
>
>
>Kristian
>
>-- 
>Kristian T. Simsarian			University of Chicago AI Laboratory
>email: kristian@cs.uchicago.edu		CS Dept. Chicago, IL 60637


If you're talking about Shimano's road brakes, I've found them (all varieties,
105, 600, DA) to be the best stopping road brakes on the market. My friend just
recently replaced his Dura-Ace center pivot calipers with dual-pivots and found
they not only stop better than the brakes they replace but also the C-Record brakes
he has on his other bike. I've ridden Campy Chorus brakes and found they don't 
stop as well as the Shimano brakes.

That being said, I still don't find they stop as well as cantilevers (such as I have
on my mountain bike) and they're not as light, either.

Michael Wong
msw10@amdahl.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
From: scott@eggneb.astro.ucla.edu (scott evans)
Subject: VO2 max (was Re: Heart Rate Survey: Results)
Organization: UCLA Dept of Astronomy
Date: 21 Aug 92 12:14:16 PDT

>>I'm particularly curious about this because I recently had my VO2 max
>>calculated based on 85% of my max heart rate, where max heart rate is
>>220 - (my age).  This worked out to about 162.  I didn't believe the
>>results, so I went and sustaind a heart rate of over 180.  What does
>>this tell me?
The value which you were quoted was your anaerobic thresshold (AT) and
not your VO2 max.  The VO2 max is your maximum ability to take in oxygen
as a function of body mass.  Usually your VO2 max is quoted in ml/min/kg
and is a number between 40 and 70 or so.  Remember, the ml is
milliliters of oxygen.  The 85% means that you can work aerobically at
85% of your maximum heart rate and still be aerobic.  This number is
unusually high...many marathon runners have AT's at about this
percentage and marathoning requires large, aerobic power outputs.  For
the "good" cyclist (non cat I-II) this number should be more like 80%
and maybe closer to 83% for the elite rider (yes, a few percent makes a
big difference). This is the number which is determined mainly by
genetics and can only be changed by a few percent with training.  That
is, you can train your butt off and your AT as a percentage of max will
reach only a certain value and that's it.
As an example, let's say Rosa Mota has a VO2 max of 10 units and can
work aerobically at 8.5 units.  Further, let's say Flo-Jo has a VO2 max
of 15 units and an AT of 6 units.  Both can jog together at 5 units of
output but when the pace goes up to between 6 and 8.5 units, Rosa will
still be cruising and Flo-Jo will start to hurt.  However, if the pace
goes up to a sprint (>10 units of output), Rosa will have to quit and
Flo-Jo will hammer away (with lactic acid searing her muscles, of
course).
The idea of training is to improve both your VO2 max and your AT as a
percentage of max.  Now, as for your ability to go 180 for a long time,
I should mention yet another zone of output. There is a zone just after
the AT and  only a few heart beats per minute in width where you will
produce lactic acid but your body will still be stable under the load
for long periods of time.  Above that level, the lactic acid in your
muscles will eventually lead to exhaustion.  Thus, when you ride a TT,
you don't want to be aerobic (for a long TT) the whole time but, rather,
you want to work in the zone where you produce lactic acid but not at a
runaway rate.  In so doing, you will be toast at the end but you will
have sustained power throughout.
Lastly,in a study done at UCLA, it was found that in the runaway lactic
acid regime, you can work as a function of time in a HYPERBOLIC manner.
That is, if you plot work on one axis and time on another, the curve
will be a hyperbola, asymptotically approaching your AT power output at
time equals infinity.

Scott Evans
UCLA cycling (hoping I didn't screw this up) 
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
From: bgeer@javelin.sim.es.com (Bob Geer)
Subject: Re: Bicycle Paths
Reply-To: bgeer@javelin.sim.es.com
Organization: Evans & Sutherland Computer Corporation
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 14:10:58 GMT

caseb@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com writes:
>The original post sugested that a network of bicycle paths should be
>built, supported by a big gasoline tax making it too expensive to 
>operate a motor vehicle.  My objection is simply that the original 
>authors seemed to ignore the obvious disadvantages of such a plan, 
>namely inflation and unemployment.

This idea of course overly penalizes those who cannot reasonably be
expected to ride bicycles -- old people, disabled & handicapped, or
who live an inordinate amount of distance from their jobs.  It is a
stupid idea proposed on an annual basis by narrow-minded, immature,
egocentric individuals.

>Every so often someone posts something implying that we would all
>be better off if cars and trucks were outlawed.  I just hope the 
>authors of these posts don't take the idea too seriously.

I'm afraid they do...fortunately, they have been & continue to be a
very small minority.
-- 
<> Bob `Bear' Geer <>  bgeer@beorn.sim.es.com           *    _\|/_  *       <>
<>      alta-holic <>   (this *often* works)     _\|/_    o   /|\    _\|/_  <>
<> Salt Lake City, <>  speaking only for myself,  /|\    <\       *   /|\   <>
<>          Ootah  <>  one of my many tricks          __ /__,               <>
From: efrank@charm.hep.upenn.edu (Ed Frank)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Subject: Used frame sought: 57cm (cc) or so.  Ancient is fine.
Date: 20 Aug 92 03:57:20 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: University of Pennsylvania


	I am looking for a used road frame (with fork) with a seat
tube of 57cm to 58cm, center to center.  (Adjust appropriately for
oversized tubes.)  I'm open minded, so let me know what you have.
Intended use is century riding.  

	If you've raced it or gone body surfing on it, but have ridden
it enough afterwards to promise me it's straight and true, that's
fine.  If you've ever tweaked it, straightened it, or leave funny tire
tracks,  and you know it, then no thank-you.  Ancient frames are fine.

	This is a chance for you to dump a bike you don't ride
anymore.  When replying, please send top tube (cc), chain-stay, and
wheel base measurements.  

	Huffys need not apply.

Ed Frank
efrank@upenn5.hep.upenn.edu
From: Jym Dyer <jym@mica.berkeley.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Subject: Re: Bloody Specialized Water Bottle Ads
Date: 23 Aug 1992 02:27:16 GMT
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
NNTP-Posting-Host: remarque.berkeley.edu
In-reply-to: msalit@enh.nist.gov's message of 11 Aug 92 04:09:46 GMT
Originator: jym@remarque.berkeley.edu

> Just read the thread re: water bottle ads, peeled back tape
> from my $4.50 bottle, and saw Taco Bell...
>
> Last specialized H2O bottle I buy.

=o= Huh?  I haven't seen the thread on water bottle ads.  The
Taco Bell bottles aren't made by Specialized, are they?  They
certainly aren't built like Specialized bottles.

=o= The Taco Bell bottles were a Greg LeMond promotional item.
Taco Bell had to recall them because the lip could come off,
causing people to choke.  I've seen these appearing recently
in bike shops with tape over the "Taco Bell".  I can't imagine
that they're legit.
    <_Jym_>
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
From: jeff@is.s.u-tokyo.ac.jp (Jeff McAffer)
Subject: Re: VETTA 200 Wireless
Reply-To: jeff@is.s.u-tokyo.ac.jp
Organization: Dept. of Infomation Science, University of Tokyo.
	<1992Aug14.094259.269@mis.mcw.edu>
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1992 08:44:36 GMT

In article <1992Aug14.094259.269@mis.mcw.edu> jmoulder@mis.mcw.edu writes:

[question 1]

 >Works fine in this position for me.

[question 2] >>Does rain affect communications?

 >Not in my experience.

[question 3] >>>Any positive/negative experiences with this unit?

 >My experience has been uniformly good

[Problem]

 >I've not seen this problem

 >is there
 >something that effects performace or interfers with transmission that we
 >have overlooked.

Mr. Moulder is obviously quite happy with his computer.  Great.  Why
is it that his is ok and the original poster's seems to suck?  Lets
look at where Mr. Moulder works--------+
                                       |
 >John Moulder (jmoulder@mis.mcw.edu)  |
 >Radiation Biology <------------------+
  ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

I think we have the answer. John's (can I call you John?) computer
really doesn't measure his cycling at all.  It is measuring him!
Perhaps he is emitting some sort of signal on each heartbeat or
something.  John, try sleeping with it beside your bed and see how
far/fast you go in your sleep.  I guess one way to fix a faulty
wireless would be to hang around your local radiology department :-)

(Sorry, I just couldn't resist)
--
atode, |m         -- Rockin' tunes empty my head and fill my soul!
                     Art!!  Is that you in there?!
From: davis@ee.rochester.edu (Al Davis)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Subject: Re: light/battery comparisons?
Date: 20 Aug 92 05:24:18 GMT
Organization: Univ of Rochester, College of Engineering and Applied Science


I use a partly home-made system with 6 ni-cad D cells and a 50 cent 6 volt
auto bulb.

Problem:  The contact resistance of the battery holders is too high.  There
is a loss of about a volt in the contacts.  There is also a loss of about .3
volts in the wire that I can fix by using heavier wire.  Thus, 7.5 volts
from the batteries drops to about 6 volts at the bulb.  I use Radio Shack
battery holders and Radio Shack hi-capacity batteries.

Any ideas on how to connect to the batteries better while keeping them
removable?  (not soldering)

al.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
From: MS_ZBIEGIEN@kcgl1.eng.ohio-state.edu (Kelly Zbiegien)
Subject: Re: Road tires
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 19:38:05 GMT

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
From: MEDELMA@cms.cc.wayne.edu (Michael Edelman)
Subject: Re: Wheels/Tires
Organization: Wayne State University, C&IT
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 12:15:23 GMT

In article <1992Aug07.132818.16448@eng.umd.edu>
naru@eng.umd.edu (Naruhisa Takashima) writes:
 
>This is going to sound stupid but bear w/me I'm new to RR bikes.
>
>How do you tell the difference between clincher and tubular rim/tires?
>
>More specifically, are the tires on my Cannondale R400 tubulars or clinchers?
>I know the model of the rims and tires on my bike, but I don't know
>what type they are. (The owner manual didn't say and the buying guide
>doesn't tell it either.)
>
Y'know, this is a pretty good question. I think we could be 99% sure the
bike has clinchers- darn few bikes come with tubulars- but the easiest
way to tell is to deflate the tire and squeeze it to one side to see if
there's a deep rim with a tube, or a solid rim with a tire glued to it.
 
Or drop in your friendly local bike store and look at both kinds of wheels.
You'll get a feel for what's what.
          --mike
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
From: bonak@herky.cs.uiowa.edu (Esmail Bonakdarian)
Subject: problem with gear levers
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 16:02:59 GMT
Reply-To: bonak@herky.cs.uiowa.edu (Esmail Bonakdarian)
Organization: U of Iowa, Iowa City, IA

I have a question about changing my gear levers and getting the
old (strange) ones to work until I figure out how to change them.

My bike is a Centurion Elite GT with Suntour deraillers (XC Sport
in the rear, Mountech in the front) and Suntour levers. I would
like to change my friction based levers to indexed.

*** One major problem is how to attach the new levers to the
frame. My current attachment is via a *single* brase-on that is
on the topside of the downtube. To it attaches a small block from
which the two levers come off. I only know of lever attachments
that are either via two brase-ons on the sides of the downtube,
or the clamp-on style. Anyone have an idea how to fix me up?

My local bike store has told me that in order to change from
friction to indexed I'll also need to change my rear derailler,
my pretty worn out chain and freewheel in addition to the new
levers. They seem pretty helpless with regard to mounting my new
levers - I've been waiting almost 3 weeks for them to figure
something out!

*** My other problems is that my current friction levers don't
work well at all (they used to), i.e., they continuously slip
(about *every* 4 miles I have to tighten the screws holding
them). I took them apart and cleaned the parts (only metal, no
plastic) but it hasn't helped much. (By the way I didn't
lubricate any part on the inside since this would negate any
friction - correct?)

The strange part about these levers is that tightening or
loosening one screw on one side affects the other in the same
way. They are definitely connected to each other, I just don't
know how to adjust them so that they don't keep coming loose.

I would appreciate any help/suggestions very much.

Thanks,
Esmail
From: mtnbiker@singletrack.EBay.Sun.COM (Daniel Abernethy)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Subject: Re: Descending hills
Date: 13 Aug 1992 22:23:15 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Distribution: world
Reply-To: mtnbiker@singletrack.EBay.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: singletrack.ebay.sun.com

> The problem is that, although I'm confident that I can
> handle the ascent, I'm scared to death at the idea of
> flying down the other side.



>When descending, use the rear brake only, lightly, and
>only when required. 

The above is really smart, use only the rear brake huh, and leave
the more powerful/useful binder unused.  Using only the rear brake 
requires that you must use it lightly because it WILL lock up otherwise.

>Get your center of gravity down,grip the bars firmly.  

Is that with locked elbows??   two fingertips on the brakes???
Asking for trouble descending with locked elbows, white knuckled, IMHO


>If your legs begin to shake,squeeze the top bar with them.  
Sit Down. works for me.  


>Stay tight and tucked.
This is a good one, tell a neophyte to tuck up for less wind resistance, 
more precarious balance, and more weight on the hands.  real good.

>Most problems occur with the rider getting shakey.
Most problems occur when the riders head gets too fat....


I haven't broken 50 yet, but I'll keep trying :-).
Gain weight, gravity works.

(Is there a faster-than-50 club in this group yet ? :-)

My descending technique is fun, safe (relative to skill) easy.

I use LOTS of FRONT brake just like a MC racer: and almost ZERO rear.
I sit bolt upright before I start braking, like an MC racer effectively using
my body as an air brake.
I put weight on the outside pedal as I carve the turn, like a SKI racer.
I RELAX, and look ahead.
I am a late braker that grabs tons of brake when needed and none in between,
keeps the rims cool, preserves my grip.

later

Dan

mtnbiker@singletrack  aka fat tyre FLYER
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
From: marcs@slc.com (Marc San Soucie)
Subject: Re: Mold Release & Preservative Agents (was Re: Road tires?)
Organization: Servio Corp, Beaverton Oregon, US
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 20:01:18 GMT

Jobst Brandt writes:

> Brian Radloff writes:

> > I think Conti Grand Prix clinchers are great.  I've been training and
> > racing on them for the last 2 years.  Of course Conti is proud of these
> > tire and charges accordingly.  I'm fortunate and my team gets them for a
> > discount, but I think in the long run, I'd still ride them even if I had
> > to pay retail.  IMHO, these are the BEST clinchers on the road.

> I think it is casually expressed in conversation but when it
> appears in print I think there must be a little more forethought involved.
> Is there more evidence to your statements than you write?

Last I heard Usenet was conversation, not scientific discourse. Brian's
note makes it quite clear that opinions are his basis. If you want to add 
science to it, feel free, but bear in mind that many of us are quite happy 
just conversing, thank you.

    Marc San Soucie
    Portland, Oregon
    marcs@slc.com
From: jrdodd@waikato.ac.nz
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Subject: Re: Leather vs Non-leather cycling gloves
Date: 21 Aug 92 13:45:17 +1200
Organization: University of Waikato, Hamilton, New Zealand

In article <BtA5xH.BwK@watserv1.uwaterloo.ca>, praetzel@marconi.uwaterloo.ca (Eric Praetzel) writes:
>   I just found my leather gloves from last year and started to use them for
> my daily commute.  Although the leather was still soft they are now cracked
> appart in a multitude of places (about 4,000 km of use).  In other years
> the gloves hardened and none of the leather cream I had would soften them.
>   So if you are tired of replacing your gloves every few months then try a
> set of the synthetic ones (yes I know some of you get exceptional life out
> of leather but I don't know how).
>   - Eric

	But what type of leather were the gloves?  I've used wimpy pgskin
leather and preferred to replace them before they shredded in the slightest
fall.  I've got some very comfortable mesh-backed ones with a tougher,  
smoother leather,  and they've been used for cycling,  ocean canoeing and 
weights for over 2 years.  Like good leather shoes,  they're tough yet fell
like a second skin (which I suppose they are really).

	Jonathan

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
From: klee@wsl.dec.com (Ken Lee)
Subject: Re: Leather vs Non-leather cycling gloves
Reply-To: klee@wsl.dec.com
Organization: DEC Western Software Laboratory
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 92 16:57:10 GMT

|>   Along came Nashbar and their Amara palm.  After 6,000 km they show some
|> slight wear but are still going strong.  Heck,  I might get > 2 years out
|> of these gloves.

I have a pair of Amara gloves from Specialized.  They're a little less
comfortable (not as soft) than leather gloves, but they are much more
durable.  Plus, they're machine washable, so they don't look disgusting
after a couple of months.

-- 
Ken Lee
DEC Western Software Laboratory, Palo Alto, Calif.
Internet: klee@wsl.dec.com
uucp: uunet!decwrl!klee
From: harry@cv.hp.com (Harry Phinney)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Subject: Re: Dual pivot calipers (?)
Date: 19 Aug 92 19:34:10 GMT
Article-I.D.: hpcvusn.1992Aug19.193410.27617
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4

Michael S. Wong writes:
: In article 714180993@muskwa.ucs.ualberta.ca, rlewis@muskwa.ucs.ualberta.ca (Robert Lewis) writes:
: >Now as I have read it (Cycling Plus, August 1992) at least the Shimano 
: >105 dual pivot brakes include something in the brake lever (a cam I am
: >assuming)
: I've never read this nor have I taken apart my 105 levers. However, this
: is a very definite possibility, as Shimano's "Servo-Wave" mountain levers
: do indeed operate in this manner.

I have not seen any 105 levers with any sort of "Servo-Wave" mechanism,
and I have seen many which were completely ordinary.

: The Dura-Ace STI levers are matched with 
: DA dual-pivot calipers, so I'd assume the dual-control levers have some
: "Servo-Wave" mechanism also.

Neither the Dura-Ace nor the Ultegra STI levers have any "Servo-Wave"
mechanism.  They have a fairly ordinary front-pull aero cable routing
with no cams involved.  The full travel of my Ultegra STI levers pulls
0.5" of cable.  My old (~1973) Campagnolo Record brake levers pull
0.6" of cable, but the lever travels further.  There is very little
difference in mechanical advantage between these two levers.  I am
currently using the STI levers with Campagnolo Record brake calipers.
They work fine together.

: Given the choice however, I'd use the two together.

Shimano tries to give you no choice.  Try ordering the STI levers
separately.

Harry Phinney   harry@hp-pcd.cv.hp.com
From: pardo@cs.washington.edu (David Keppel)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Subject: Re: recumbents - hpv
Date: 12 Aug 92 19:27:53 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: Computer Science & Engineering, U. of Washington, Seattle

flip@sage.cc.purdue.edu (Phillip Russell) writes:
>[Local shop says recumbents are high maintenance and tend to break.]

I rode a short-wheelbase 'bent for a while and I tended to ding the
front rim when I went trail riding.  Oh, and I got a flat tire once,
too.

	;-D on  ( It's not broken ... nor is it a joke! )  Pardo
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles