HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: sallyh@StarConn.com (Sally Holmes)
Subject: Re: Threads
Organization: Starnet-Public Access UNIX--Los Altos, CA  415-949-3133
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 18:59:37 GMT

I'm interested in the discussion in this group of Threads... I am
a sewer, and read this group for interest and background. I love
Threads! It's the best magazine I've found for the home sewer who
aspires to better things. SewNews is a little too concerned with
fashion: Threads offers a good selections of tips for achieving classic
effects. I often find that I read an issue and find nothing of interest
in it, then go back to it a couple of months later because I'm trying to
do something they wrote about...

I understand that the rec.crafts.textiles people are annoyed by the
emphasis on sewing, but please don't forget that it's fulfilling a need!
What I mean is: in your desire to make Threads into a more general
fibre-arts magazine, please don't destroy the sewer's quality magazine.

It seems to me that there's a need for two magazines here: Threads as it
has evolved, and Threads as it used to be, minus the sewing.

Sally Holmes
From: sbishop@desire.wright.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Decorating Sweatshirts
Date: 9 Jan 93 12:09:02 EST
Organization:  Wright State University 

Does anyone know of a manufacturer direct source for sweatshirts to decorate?
Hanes would be nice, any quality manufacturer would do.

Please reply via e-mail, I don't access this group very often.

Sue
From: amy@vineland.pubs.stratus.com (Amy McNulty)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: can "rayon faille" be washed?
Date: 8 Jan 1993 13:40:06 GMT
Organization: Stratus Computer Inc, Marlboro MA
NNTP-Posting-Host: blueheron.pubs.stratus.com

I'm thinking of buying a dress I saw recently in a 
catalog. The fabric is 100% rayon faille, and the
catalog listing says it's dry clean only. I have
allergy problems and try to avoid getting my
clothes dry cleaned, but I really love this dress.
Does anyone know if this fabric could be hand
washed or machine washed in the delicate cycle?

aTdHvAaNnKcSe!

______________________________________________________________
amy_mcnulty@vos.stratus.com  or  amy@vineland.pubs.stratus.com
Amy McNulty -- Stratus Computer, Marlboro, MA
Stratus pays me to write, but not to write this!
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: Cathy.Langford@cc.utas.edu.au (Catherine Langford)
Subject: cross-stitch program.vicki
Organization: University of Tasmania
Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1993 02:27:28 GMT

>From: Cathy.Langford@cc.utas.edu.au (Catherine Langford)
To: vlb@cfcl.COM 
Subject: Re: Cross-stitch Program
Organization: University of Tasmania

Dear Vicki,
I am very interested in the program called needlework. As software is very 
limited if any in TasmaniaIn would like to take you up on the offer on the 
(binhex'd) file. We have pC and Macintosh at this UNI, but only have scanners
for macintoshes. The book you where mention called Just Cross stitch
you cannot get in Australia, It sound good information in it.

I  got off FTP the program ccalled cross stitch designer version 2.0 which
sound all right, which i will play aroound with. It would be great if I could
scan pictures of Australia and Tasmania and put them into cross stitch. Books
cost a lot of money and all American(no affence) Just we have beautiful buildings
and landscapes. I have been waiting for some software to come out. To use 
compuserve it cost a lot of money I dont have. Well I must go to a meeting now
so I hope to hear from you soon.

your faithfully
catheine Langford
Hobart Tasmania
From: kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM (John Kopf,D,6305)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bench-top finishing
Date: 4 Jan 93 19:43:15 GMT
Reply-To: kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems

You might also want to consider a sheet of formica laminated to the top of your
bench, but fiberglass is probably the best solution.

John Kopf


Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: okunewck@psuvax1.cs.psu.edu (Phil OKunewick)
Subject: Re: where to find clock parts?
Organization: Random, at best
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 18:21:27 GMT

Was this one posted already?

S. LaRose, Inc.
234 Commerce Place, P.O. Box 21208
Greensboro, North Carolina 27420, USA
Phone (919) 275-0462
Fax 800-537-4513

   They sell most everything for clocks, from good quality parts to
pure junk.  The full catalog (bi-annual?) is 1/2" thick, and they
regularly send out abridged catalogs and flyers.  If a part isn't in
the catalog, call them and ask anyway.

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: isr@rodan.acs.syr.edu (Michael S. Schechter - ISR group account)
Subject: Re: How to tin-coat a Copper or Brass pan
Organization: Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 93 18:53:15 EST

In article <3054@tymix.Tymnet.COM> kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM writes:
>In any case, avoid the use of solder.  While there are pure tin solders, most solder
>has a significant amount of lead in it.
>
>The main purpose of tinning metal is "taste" -- copper ions dissolved in food (esp.
>acid foods) leaves a strong "metalic" taste in your mouth;  the tin prevents this
>(that's why "tin" cans are used...as much for the resulting taste as for rust 
>prevention.
>
>John Kopf

NOT!  NOT! NOT!
when food is cooked in copper, the heated acids form toxic compounds
when combined with the copper-oh, it won't kill you today, or even
next week- but you sure won't be around in a year or two-
I can't remember if it's CNS degeneration or something to do with
blood, but it's one of 'em.. And as for lead-free solder, a lot of
them have antimony, or other wondefuls things- they may be safe
at 110 degrees for water, but not near food!

use pure TIN, and that's it! it should only cost $12 a pound or so!
From: jonesm@nic.cerf.net (Matthew Jones)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Ramp Ball Clock
Date: 8 Jan 1993 15:37:27 GMT
Organization: CERFnet Dial n' CERF Customer Group
NNTP-Posting-Host: nic.cerf.net

In article <57520@olivea.atc.olivetti.com> norm@strobe.ATC.Olivetti.Com (Norm Carpenter x3055) writes:
>I know I've seen this clock, and I was wondering if any of you know where
>some plans might be found.  This is the type of clock that has a ball 
>carried up to the top of a ramp every minute.  At 5 minutes the top most ball
>cage tips because of the weight of the 5th ball.  4 of the balls fall all 
>the way down to the bottom while the 5th ball goes to the 5s ramp (i.e. for
>each ball count 5, 10, 15, etc.)  When this ramp gets full it dumps all the
>balls except one which goes to the hours ramp.  At noon and midnight, the
>whole thing makes a lot of noise.  
>
>Have any of you seen plans describing this clock?

Isn't this also called a marble clock?

I believe this is a congrave clock (I think, I hope...). John Wilding has a book
called "How to build a Congrave Clock", avaialble from TEE Publishing
and Scanlon American Reprints (Scanlon is cheaper I think). 

Just as a nit, it is a one that it makes all the noise :-).

Matthew Jones
jonesm@cerf.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: ndmead%gr.cs.utah.edu@cs.utah.edu (Nathan Mead)
Subject: Re: Welding aluminmum bellhousing
Date: 6 Jan 93 15:40:11 MST
Keywords: welding, aluminum, help
Organization: University of Utah

In article <103874@netnews.upenn.edu>, noorder@aurora.cis.upenn.edu (Alexander Noordergraaf) writes:

|> I have access to both arc and oxy/acetylene
|> welding. Which would be better? I looked up aluminum welding in the 
|> Lincoln Arc Welding Reference book I have and they don't mention 
|> arc welding with aluminum. Can I successfully weld aluminum with arc or
|> gas? What type or rod/filler should I use? The area that should be
|> filled is less than an inch square.

Welding aluminum with either gas or arc is very tricky.  The basic problem is that aluminum oxidizes very fast and the oxide layer has a significantly higher melting point than the base metal.  There are oxy/acetylene rods avaliable for aluminum but they are very hard to use.  My personal recomendation would be to have a shop TIG weld your part or as it dosen't sound structural just run it the way it is.

Good luck

Nathan Mead

Center for Engineering Design
University of Utah
From: tzb76@isuvax.iastate.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Puzzle rings and Iron puzzles
Date: 7 Jan 93 21:37:22 GMT
Reply-To: tzb76@isuvax.iastate.edu
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames, Iowa


	I have seen a few photographs of puzzle rings (finger rings
that are composed of several interlocking rings that fit together
to make a single ring) and am curious as to how they are made.
Also, Ive seen many 'tavern puzzles' or iron puzzles suposedly
once made by blacksmiths, wherin the goal is usually to remove
a piece thru devious manipulation; I am, however too cheap to purchase
them, and wonder how they might be constructed.
	If anyone has any information on these things, especially
with reference to plans or books, I would greatly appreciate
their help.

Paul Thompson
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sigh.  What have I done now? (Re: Question about this Newsgroup)
Date: 5 Jan 93 17:01:44 GMT
Organization: LLNL

In article <1ib716INN9qs@menudo.uh.edu>, mcbryde@navier.math.uh.edu (Jack Mcbryde) writes:
> 
> In article <1993Jan04.225621.10823@i88.isc.com> jeq@i88.isc.com (Jonathan E. Quist) writes:
> If you can cite some believable source
> for you rather interesting definition of "craftsman" (some reputable source
> that includes something to the effect of "no higher competence") I'm certainly
> willing to listen.

Sure.  Is Webster's Unabridged, the big one with the blue paper cover
good enough?  I may have missed a word or two, but WU gives the definition
of a craftsman as "a person skilled in a manual art but lacking higher
competence".  There are also lots of historical references, one of which
I gave in a previous article.
From: noorder@aurora.cis.upenn.edu (Alexander Noordergraaf)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Welding Aluminum Bellhousing (thanks...)
Summary: thanks
Date: 7 Jan 93 16:48:28 GMT
Organization: University of Pennsylvania


	I wanted to thank everyone for all the advice about how to weld 
up the bellhousing.  I don't think I would have dared to do anything if 
ya'll hadn't given me such good advice.

	I ended up taking the whole housing to welding class and used TIG
with argon gas to weld the crack shut. Actually, my instructor did it for
me. After we cleaned the surface with a grinder there were no problems 
with adhesion.  It looks really good. All that is left to do is dress it
with a grinder, and it will look as good as new.

	This newsgroup is REALLY helpful. It is is nice that there are
still some usenet groups where you can get advice and not just flames.

	Thanks again, Alex (one relieved honda owner)



Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: ndmead%gr.cs.utah.edu@cs.utah.edu (Nathan Mead)
Subject: Re: Victor TurboTorch - how good is it?
Date: 12 Jan 93 18:25:38 MST
Organization: University of Utah

In article <1993Jan12.040114.13869@ncsu.edu>, hes@ncsu.edu (Henry E. Schaffer) writes:
|> 
|>   Some years ago I saw some advertising material for these
|> torches which made claims about producing much higher 
|> temperatures than normal.  My vague memory is that there
|> were implications that propane in this torch was about as
|> good as MAPP in a normal torch, and that MAPP here was
|> about as good as acetylene there.  I never tried this type
|> of torch, never talked to anyone who had and never saw any
|> independent type of study.
|> 
|>   Does anyone know how well they work?

I have always been very happy with my TurboTorch.  It was bought for 
silver soldering copper pipe but has been used for other things, works 
great, has been very reliable and reasnobly tolerent of dirt ( an 
important consideration when one is dragging a torch around under a 
house).   I use a standard 2 or 5 gallon propane bottle and propane 
tips although air/acetylene tips are avaliable.  I have never tried 
using MAPP gas as it's plenty hot with propane which is cheaper and 
easier to find. Principal advantages over other torches are a short, 
"fat" flame that spreads the heat and avoids burning down the house, 
the quick connect which makes changing tips a breaze and the push 
button on/off that is much easier to use when you are constantly 
doing start and stop soldering.  I think they put a on/off button 
on the handle because the tip design requires a relativly narrow 
range of fuel flow for proper tip performance.  I have had good 
sucess with fuel pressures between 15 psi and 30 psi but this 
range does not have a large impact on flame size.  Typicaly I 
just switch tips when I need more or less heat.  I don't have any 
hard numbers on actual tip temperatures but there is no comparsion 
between the "bottle" torches and the TurboTorch even with tip sizes 
roughly the same.  It's almost impossible to silver solder copper pipe 
with a "bottle" torch but no problem with the TurboTorch.  My only 
complaint is the price of the tips ($40 - $60) although when you see 
them you can understand why as they are much more complex than other 
tips.  I left mine in Oregon (long story) and if I get back into 
copper plumbing or other applications for silver soldering I'll 
have to get another one.

Hope this helps.

Nathan Mead
Center for Engineering Design
University of Utah
From: norm@strobe.ATC.Olivetti.Com (Norm Carpenter x3055)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Ramp Ball Clock
Date: 7 Jan 93 22:14:19 GMT

I know I've seen this clock, and I was wondering if any of you know where
some plans might be found.  This is the type of clock that has a ball 
carried up to the top of a ramp every minute.  At 5 minutes the top most ball
cage tips because of the weight of the 5th ball.  4 of the balls fall all 
the way down to the bottom while the 5th ball goes to the 5s ramp (i.e. for
each ball count 5, 10, 15, etc.)  When this ramp gets full it dumps all the
balls except one which goes to the hours ramp.  At noon and midnight, the
whole thing makes a lot of noise.  

Have any of you seen plans describing this clock?

Thanks,

Norm
*******************************************************************************
norm@oliveb.OLIVETTI.COM

                 "Watch this space." -- Acme Advertising
From: kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM (John Kopf,D,6305)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Brass Casting
Date: 8 Jan 93 19:39:21 GMT
Reply-To: kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems

I've not cast brass myself, but understand from reading that one of the biggest
problems is that the Zinc component can BOIL off at well below the melting 
temperature, and leaving the crucible as a while cloud of zinc oxide (and depleting
the Zinc content).

I have heard that you can prevent this by putting a thin layer of crushed glass
on top of the metal in the crucible -- it melts (like a flux) and keeps the zinc
away from the air.  You then skim this off just before pouring and proceed.

Perhaps someone with more experience can coment?

JK
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: markk@tcs.com (Mark Kromer)
Subject: Techniques for bending tubing
Originator: markk@sparcplug
Reply-To: markk@tcs.com (Mark Kromer)
Organization: Teknekron Communications Inc.
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 01:49:05 GMT

I need some advice on techniques for bending thinwall chrome moly
tubing ~1" dia for structural applications.  It must also be
cosmetically perfect (no section changes etc.).

thanks,
- )V(ark)<
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: Dale@sol.cs.wmich.edu (Dale Gee)
Subject: books
Organization: Western Michigan Univ. Comp. Sci. Dept.
Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1993 17:02:44 GMT

I was cleaning out my desk last night and found this catalog for books.
It has books on just about every subject about metal working there is.


Norm Larson Books
5426 E. Hwy 246
Lompoc, CA 93436
800-743-4766 out side of the U.S. 805-735-2095

Hope this is of some help.

Dale

Village Blacksmith
From: kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM (John Kopf,D,6305)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Al and Steel : some questions
Date: 11 Jan 93 20:30:51 GMT
Reply-To: kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems

>: Are you sure about this? I do not recall ever reading about any elemental
>: aluminum ever being found. 

>Lighting strikes to beach sand.   Very rare...
>I remember reading about a royal set of aluminum "silverware".

Napolean had the "aluminum silverware", I believe.  It was produced via chemical
processes in the early 1800's, and cost several times the $/pound of *any* other
metal at that time.

JK
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: isr@rodan.acs.syr.edu (Michael S. Schechter - ISR group account)
Subject: Re: Question about this Newsgroup
Organization: Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 93 12:27:50 EST

Well, gee, I'm an engineer, and an artist, and I don't mind if someone
calls me a craftsman- so why don't all you high 'n mighty stuck-up
morons go suck toads instead of wasting time complaiing about the name.

or go start your own,  sci.metal.snobs

Flames welcomed and hung on wall, but please keep 'em to email
From: kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM (John Kopf,D,6305)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: plating/electroplating
Date: 8 Jan 93 19:26:11 GMT
Reply-To: kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems

I understand there was also a method of plating w/o electricity that involved disolving
the gold/silver/etc. in mercury and painting the result onto the work, then baking the
mercury out.

It's a wonder ANYONE survived.

JK
From: arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Thread Tapping Gizzmos
Date: 5 Jan 93 15:40:10 GMT
Organization: ddsw1.MCS.COM Contributor, Chicago, IL

In article <1993Jan4.183252.4809@leland.Stanford.EDU> karish@pangea.Stanford.EDU (Chuck Karish) writes:
>
>If you're doing enough tapping that you can't do it by
>hand, $170 doesn't sound like a lot of money to pay.
>If it won't pay for itself quickly in productivity
>and avoidance of tap breakage, you don't need it.

I am just greedy and kind of a skin flint.  I can do all the holes on
this device but the 1/4" one and I am reluctant to make the plunge just
for it if there is a cheaper route.
>>I found that a cheapo screwdriver adapter works ok for small threats but
>>I have wrecked three of them on 1/4 threads in aluminum.
>
>I'd think you'd need better torque control in a tapper
>than in a screw driving speed reducer.  The cheapo
>screwdriver attachments just aren't designed for
>production use.

It works fine on smaller taps but there is a key component made of
plastic that gets stripped with a 1/4" tap.  I use it in combination
with a variable speed, revearsible hand drill in a cheapo drill press
stand and it's pretty slick but......
js
From: djt@merlin.caltech.edu (David Thompson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: plating/electroplating
Date: 6 Jan 1993 17:50 PST
Organization: California Institute of Technology
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: merlin.caltech.edu
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    

Hi all,

	Several points I'd like to make:

	Plating w/o electricity is only possible with some combinations of
metals. It works because (using the example given) the iron in solution and
copper plated out has a lower energy (in chemical terms) than the other way
around. I have used a similar method to strip aluminum off of telescope 
mirrors (aluminum dissolves while copper plates out onto the glass, but it
does not stick!). Unfortunately, the "plating" stops as soon as the surface
is coated (i.e. VERY thin coatings), and is not useful for making durable
coatings.

	I'm not positive on this point, but I think that gilding was the 
process of applying gold leaf (extremely thin sheets of gold). This is NOT
a plating process, and is also not durable. The gold that is applied is 
EXTREMELY thin, of order microns, much less than 0.001".

	For the poster seeking to coat a lamp reflector, see the discussions
on tinning pots that were posted in the recent past. Pure tin, lead-free
solder, or silver solder should work fine, especially since this is not a 
piece intended to come in contact with food. If it is too large for this,
it could be chemically plated with silver (something like silver chloride
dissolved in ammonia solution, which reduces to metallic silver and plates
out when an ascorbic acid solution is mixed in). This process was used to
silver coat telescope mirrors before vacuum deposition of aluminum was 
discovered/invented. DO NOT attempt this procedure without looking the 
exact process/concentrations to use, I seem to recall that some of the 
byproducts can be a bit unstable. Another alternative would be to send
the lamp reflector to a company that can do vacuum deposition of aluminum.
It really isn't too expensive - around $2.00/inch diameter for telescope
mirrors. Several places can be found in Astronomy or Sky & Telescope 
magazines, or try the yellow pages under reasonable headings.

				Good Luck - Dave.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: jeq@i88.isc.com (Jonathan E. Quist)
Subject: Re: Al and Steel : some questions
Organization: Lachman Technology, Incorporated, Naperville, IL
Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1993 21:03:30 GMT

In article <C0FtD3.LC0@unccsun.uncc.edu> tarumph@uncc.edu writes:
>In article 1389@blue.cis.pitt.edu, fmg@alpha.smi.med.pitt.edu (Filip Gieszczykiewicz) writes:
>>
>>	Greetings. My first post here so be gentle in your approach :-)
>>
>>	1) I am making some of my armour at a local armorer. I have also
>>	   been folowing a long and heated thread on rec.org.sca about
>>	   how "Aluminum does not look/is authentic"... Since there is
...
>Sorry, but Al is not going to look like steel no matter what you do.  Some of the 
>     anodyzing treatments can result in a surface as hard as mild steel, but this will
>     probably not help much with impact resistance. They are availble in many colors,
>     none of which are period.

So don't tell them it's aluminimum.  Insist that it's mithril.

Guaranteed to impress the wenches.
-- 
Jonathan E. Quist                              Lachman Technology, Incorporated
jeq@i88.isc.com  '71 CL450-K4 "Gleep", DoD #094        Naperville, IL
 __       There's nothing quite like the pitter-patter of little feet,
 \/                   followed by the words "Daddy!  Yay!"
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: hes@unity.ncsu.edu (Henry E. Schaffer)
Subject: Re: Propane torch recommendations (silver soldering)
Organization: North Carolina State University
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 02:44:16 GMT

In article <1if8bvINNd19@roche.csl.sri.com> ralls@cisco.com (Vicki Ralls) writes:
>
>Rio Grande sells mostly to the jewlerly trade. However they have a
>complete line of torches in thier tools catalog. They also have a complete
>line of silver and silver solder. I have found the prices to be reasonable 
>and the quality good.
>
>Thier customer service number is 1-800-533-3299.

  Hmmm - my literature says 800-545-6566.  When I talked to them in
November they were having their catalog reprinted and couldn't send me
one for a while (January?).  It should be ready soon.  I think that they
charge for it.

  There is a "Bell Group" of companies which I read about on the cover
of my River Gems catalog - these companies are

Rio Grande - tools, eqpt, supplies for mfg. jewelery
River Gems & Findings - gemstones, findings and precious metals
  800-443-6766  Catalog is $10 8 1/2 x 11" 500 pages, zillions of
  color photos on coated paper.  It also has a fair amount of
  information on techniques.  It's my impression that their prices
  are not particularly low.
Bluewater Display & Packaging   displays, packaging and sample cases
  800-637-8303
Sonic-Mill  ultrasonic processing  505-345-8376
Neutec/USA  complete line of induction melting and casting equp
  505-345-7337

  These companies are all in Alburquerque, NM.

--henry schaffer
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking