HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au (Paul Repacholi)
Subject: Re: stabilizers
Followup-To: rec.photo
Organization: Curtin University of Technology
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 09:51:56 GMT

In article <94xk03b06aqO00@amdahl.uts.amdahl.com>, bjs@uts.amdahl.com (Barry Sherman) writes:
> Please bear in mind as you read this that while I'm becoming fairly 
> knowledgable about photography, I'm extremely electronically impaired.  
> Down-right electronically challenged.  No, make that totally ignorant.   :-)
> 
> My enlarger is rather old.  In fact ancient.  (Durst L-1000, manufactured
> during the 1960's)  It came with an after-market dichro head made by "Pavelle".
> The head came with a power supply.  But the power supply is just a step-down
> transformer (110v -> 24v).
> 

Do you think you could find an old Amdal? :-)) Grab the 12v Fugitsu power
supply, the one I have is good for 240 amps, which sould be good enough for
2 bulbs :-)

> * Does one just buy a "110 volt" voltage stabilizer?  
do you hate money? Why buy, when TONNES of stuff will go to the tip...

> 
> * Are they rated as to current capacity?  (My 2 bulbs draw 400 watts total.)
> 
> * Since my lamps are 24v I assume that I want a stabilizer that my step-down
>   transformer will plug into.  I.e.  I assume that I want a 110 volt
>   stabilizer and it will be inserted between the step-down transformer and
>   the wall outlet.  Or do I want a 24v stabilizer to be inserted between the
>   transformer and the bulbs?  Or does it matter?
> 
> * In other words, I, in my state of ignorance, have no idea what to ask for
>   when I to into the store.  Any knowledgable suggestions?
> 

See what type of bulb it uses. You can then change them to a more convienient
voltage. You will pay less for them at a lamp wholesaler than a photo shop too.

There should be people in Amdahl who can help you out. You may need to go down
to the scrap yard and remove it your self. If you are stuck, I can get you a
couple of units out of a Vax 780 for $2 per Kg, plus freight...

~Paul
From: tjwu@athena.mit.edu (Thomas J Wu)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: What lens to get for EOS Elan?
Date: 1 Sep 92 17:41:47 GMT
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology


  I'm trying to decide among the following lenses for an EOS Elan:

- Canon 35-80mm f/4-5.6 USM (fast, quiet), ~$150
- Canon 35-80mm f/4-5.6 EF, ~$85
- Sigma 35-80mm f/4-5.6, ~$70
- Sigma 35-135mm f/3.5-4.5, ~$130

Does anybody have any positive and/or negative experiences with these
lenses?  Are these prices reasonable?  Either e-mail or post is okay.
Thanks.

  Thomas Wu
  Internet:  tjwu@athena.mit.edu
From: smwall@aol.com (Steve Wall)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: media permanence (was Re: photo-developing, specifically nudes)
Date: 25 Aug 92 20:29:26 GMT
Organization: U.S. Army Armament Research Dev. & Eng. Ctr, Dover NJ

> 
> So here's a question for you:  If I make a print from a Photo CD on my
> (hypothetical :-() laser printer, how long will that last?
> 
Wait and see...All the fading problems in chromogenic prints don't
necessarily apply to Dye Sublimation prints from Photo CD.  It's possible that
the dyes/pigments used in oil paints could be adapted to Dye Sublimation 
printing, making them as permanent as Black & White prints.  

Steve Wall
Xref: sparky rec.photo:15062 alt.cd-rom:2822 gnu.misc.discuss:2791 misc.int-property:885
From: ajayshah@almaak.usc.edu (Ajay Shah)
Newsgroups: rec.photo,alt.cd-rom,gnu.misc.discuss,misc.int-property
Subject: Re: Time to boycott Photo CD
Date: 28 Aug 1992 12:50:38 -0700
Organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA
NNTP-Posting-Host: almaak.usc.edu

joet@dcatlas.dot.gov (Joe Trott) writes:

>As a consumer, it is always your right to *not* buy (unless the product or

>(assuming price <= value to them).  If there are enough, it will fly.  Sit
>back and watch.  There are sure to be refinements and enhancements.

I claim there is a strategy better than "Sit back and watch".
I think the net is populated by an exceptional group of people, who
have the cumulative decision making power to make a serious difference.

If you feel strongly about the proposition that the world reaps
nonlinear gains out of open systems, then you should consider suffering
a nonzero qty of personal pain to avoid Photo CD until Kodak opens
up the file formats.

        -ans.
-- 
Ajay Shah, (213)749-8133, ajayshah@usc.edu
From: bu890@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Brian Segal)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Use Velvia at 32 or 40? (Was: Re: Fuji
Date: 2 Sep 1992 10:51:34 GMT
Organization: A poorly-installed InterNetNews site
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


I would suggest checking your meter! I have been using Velvia in 120 and
4x5 formats since it came out and have found that ISO 50 is dead on
as long as you know what you are doing...it can get very saturated with
a polarizer, and due to its contrast can appear under exposed if you
aren't careful..it's really a film for manual (i.e. NOT pre-programmed)
shooting in that you have to tweak you exposures...
But then again, Fuji considers it a professional film that will be used by 
experienced shooters who know its quirks..just shooting at a third or so
below the ratingwill not guarantee results.

brian
From: cheu@venus.its.uci.edu (Kelvin Cheu)
Subject: Re: Photograping Whales [8008s autofocus problem]
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Reply-To: cheu@venus.its.uci.edu (Kelvin Cheu)
Organization: University of California, Irvine
Date: 1 Sep 92 17:56:41 GMT

In article <1992Sep1.053347.27068@cello.hpl.hp.com>, jacobson@cello.hpl.hp.com (David Jacobson) writes:
|> In article <6031@transfer.stratus.com> savoia@sw.stratus.com (Rick Savoia) writes:
|> >This past weekend, I went on a whale watch and brought
|> >along my 8008s.  I was hoping to get a good picture of 
|> >a whale as it breached.  Well, when we got to the site,
|> >I started snapping the tails flapping and blowholes 
|> >blowing and everything was going fine.  Then one of 
|> >the whales started breaching.  I went over to the side
|> >of the boat pointed my camera in the general direction
|> >(you really can't tell where they will come up!)  and waited.
|> >The whale was a few hundred yards off of the boat and I
|> >was using a 35-105 AF Nikkor lens.  The problem I had
|> >was when the whale breached, the camera would rack 
|> >back and forth trying to find the focus.  The whale 
|> >doesn't stay up for long (you try keeing that many tons 
|> >in the air for long!) and I would usually get the whale
|> >falling back into the water.  
|> >
|> >My question:  Given that I should have just focussed on 
|> >a point in the approximate area and held the auto-focus
|> >lock (I realized afterwards), was there any other way 
|> >I could have done this and insured accurate autofocus?
|> >I finally switched to manual focus and let it remain on 
|> >infinity.  I would have preferred autofocus, but it seems
|> >that AF cameras can't focus that quickly!  Any ideas for
|> >next time?
|> 

This is kind of sport-action shot.  What I usually do, when I
figure out the AF can't focus in time, is:

use aperture priority - set to aperture of f11 or smaller with 
speed fast enough to freeze the action and prevent camera shake

pre-focus the camera/lens, and set the focus mode to M

Kelvin
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: alix@indetech.com (Alexandria North)
Subject: Photography Contests 
Organization: Independence Technologies, Inc. Fremont, CA
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 20:50:11 GMT


Some friends of mine have suggested I start entering my photos in 
photography contests. I've also found this suggestions in some 
photography books I've read recently, as a way of learning to shoot 
to a "spec" and for gaining minor recognition.

Here's the Q: How do you find out about these contests, other than 
by accidentally stumbling on them? Where are they usually advertised?
Other than seeing one contest in a Ritz Camera ad and a Kodak contest 
in Photographic, I haven't really seen any advertised in the past 
six months. Where should I be looking?

-- 
-----------------------------------------------------------
"Babies, babies, babies. Why did God make so many babies?
 But no, God didn't make them. Stupid people made them."
      -- Margaret Mitchell, Gone With The Wind
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jacobson@cello.hpl.hp.com (David Jacobson)
Subject: Re: Photograping Whales [8008s autofocus p
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 20:14:21 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories

In article <1992Sep1.130735.27132@jyu.fi> konkkola@jyu.fi writes:
>In article 92Sep1111103@horus.sics.se, pd@sics.se (Per Danielsson) writes:
>> In article <1992Sep1.053347.27068@cello.hpl.hp.com> jacobson@cello.hpl.hp.com (David Jacobson) writes:
>> 
>> 
>> With a Canon USM lens you can manually adjust the focus even if the
>> lens is in AF mode. You press the shutter down halfway and if you
>> don't like what the AF thinks should be in focus, you can quickly
>> twist the focusing ring manually and take the picture.
>> 
>> The Canon EOS RT (and perhaps also the EOS 10) can be customized to
>
>At least EOS 1, 10 and 100 can use this way.
>
>> use a separate button for initiating AF. This means that you can let
>> the camera set the focus automatically and then leave it at that
>> position for every following shot.
>> --
>> Per Danielsson				pd@sics.se
>> Swedish Institute of Computer Science, PO Box 1263, S-164 28 KISTA, SWEDEN
>
>
>
>---
>Markku K|nkk|l{   Computing Centre of Jyv{skyl{ University   Jyv{skyl{, Finland
>Markku Knkkl   Computing Centre of Jyvskyl University   Jyvskyl, Finland
>
>E-mail: konkkola@jyu.fi        phone: +358-41-603594        fax: +358-41-603611
>===============================================================================
>

I didn't write any of that.  Actually, I wrote something and that was
someone else's reply to it.

  -- David Jacobson

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: ole-jorgen.maland@tf.tele.no (Ole J.Maeland)
Subject: Leaving film out on F4s?
Organization: TF/FBT
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 11:34:09 GMT

How do you choose this option? The manual says nothing!!

-- Ole Joergen --
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: tjlow@ntuvax.ntu.ac.sg
Subject: Re: Q: Minolta vs Nikon: Compatibility
Organization: Nanyang Technological University - Singapore
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 01:09:08 GMT

In article <1992Sep3.102416.28863@mendelson.com>, gsm@mendelson.com (Geoffrey S. Mendelson) writes:
> tjlow@ntuvax.ntu.ac.sg asks:
>>
>>Considering ...
>>	Minolta x700   &   Minolta  xi
>> and    Nikon   FE2    &   Nikon   N90, 8008, F
...............<stuff deleted>............
>>Q3.	Can Nikon   Manual focus lens be used on it's Autofocus Body?
> 
> Most. Any lens made before 1978 will have to be modified (f-stop ring cut).
> 
	
	Modified ,  you mean literary cutting the ring? 
	I suppose it still can be used on the manual camera after cutting, 
	am I right?


>>Q4.	Can Nikon  Autofocus lens be used on it's manual Body?
> 
> Yes.  A "fork" needs to be added (about $20) to couple to pre 1978 meters.
> 

	What's the function of the fork?
	Is FE2's meter pre-1978?
	How about FM2 ?


> Geoff.
> -- 
> Copyright (C) 1992, Geoffrey S. Mendelson.              All Rights Reserved.
> Except for usenet followups, may not be reproduced without permsission.
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> |                   |  Computer Software Consulting    |                   |
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Geoffrey S. Mendelson        Ask me about UNIX(tm) based imaging systems.
> geoffrey@mendelson.com            
> (215) 242-8712                             



	Toong-Jye Low.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: edmtl@fiol.uib.no (Thor-Lee Legvold)
Subject: Flash recommendations wanted 
Keywords: Flash, light, camera, hey you - yes you, etc
Reply-To: edmtl@fiol.uib.no
Organization: University of Bergen, Norway
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 92 14:13:27 GMT

Hi.

I'm thinking of buying a flash.  I wanted the Nets advice (a sound addition
to the marketing hype gathered in the stores ;-).

I have a Bronica SQ-Ai, which is 6x6 and SCA-300 compatible - it has
TTL capeability.

I shoot mostly landscape and portrait, and have as a sort of goal
when I shoot to use only existing lighting.  Well, it's not always
practical.  F.eks. Friday I was asked if I had any B/W film lying
around - "why of course I do" I said.  Great - go take some pictures
of this official opening for the University newspaper.  Well, the
'B/W' film I had was TMAX (100 ASA) and the 'official opening' was
at 11:30 at night...  And I don't have a flash (nor was I able to loan
one at 8:00 pm friday night ;-)  So I pressed to 800 ASA (I'll find
out tomorrow if it worked or not ...)

Get the picture?  Another problem - I use mostly (i.e. always) Velvia.
(ASA 50) which needs lots of light.  Portraits get done with Reala
and often I find a reflector just doesn't smooth out the shadows
enough.  With B/W I'm not so experienced, but all my Tmax rolls were
pretty grainy (on Emaks paper), while the first roll of XP2 (printed
on Ilford Multigrade) I was very impressed with.  Agfapan also gave
very good results.

So here I am, not a Pro, yet once in a while a bit more than an ameteur,
and I need a flash.

I've been considering a Metz 45 CT (CL?) 4, and a 32 CT (CL?) 4.
As I use medium format (and a waist level finder - I think it's 
much nicer to use than a prism) I need to have a stave for the flash
too - Bronica doesn't have (as Mamiya does) a hot shoe on the body.

I won't be buying the SCA adapter at once, I want to try a bit without 
it first and see how things go 'the old fashioned way' (i.e. calculating
it by hand and measuring the light ;-), so I'm not sure if I should
go with Metz or not.  It's nice to be able to upgrade later.  I 
was thinking that the 45 is too strong, but it can be used at 1/2 and
1/4 strength, and the 32 with stave is almost the same price (here anyway)
Maybe I should buy one mail order from the US???

Well, this is already 4 times longer than it should have been, so I
invite your advice.  I'll summarize if there's interest.

Regards,
Thor
edmtl@fiol.uib.no
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: acs@csri.toronto.edu (Alvin Chia-Hua Shih)
Subject: Re: overexposed prints - camara or processing???
Date: 26 Aug 92 02:24:00 GMT

In <craigh.714325736@cserver> craigh@cserver.plexus.com (Craig Heilman) writes:

>                      [...]  It was a very sunny day and many of the photos
>were of lakeside scenes.  [...]

Nikon's "matrix metering" (and Canon's "evaluative metering") try to open
up a bit more if it's *really bright*.  According to the Nikon F-801s
brochure, this happens at EV 16-1/3.  The reason for this is that the
"canonical bright picture" consists of lots of sand or lots of snow.
So, they do "automatic exposure compensation" to "keep the whites white"
so to speak (instead of giving you snow that's 18% gray...).

Indeed, by the water, you might have caught some glare.

So, check the negatives first.  Try shooting some "more average" scenes
and see what happens.  Also check that the camera is not set for exposure
compensation, exposure lock, and has read the DX code properly.  (On my
EOS 630, it once thought my ISO 400 film was ISO 100...)  With a zillion
fiddly controls, one can never be sure what the camera is up to...

ACS
-- 
 ___ ___ ___ ______________________________________________________________
|   |   | __|      Democracy is not a way of getting better solutions.     |
| - | --|__ |           It's just a way to spread the blame.               |
|_|_|___|___|______________________________________________________________|
Alvin_C._Shih____________________acs@csri.utoronto.ca______________________|
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: dp@world.std.com (Jeff DelPapa)
Subject: Rumor Mongering
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 03:54:23 GMT

Heard a rumor that mamiya was to be closed down by it's parent fairly
soon... Anyone care to prod their sources for confirmation??

<dp>

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: dougb@comm.mot.com (Doug Bank)
Subject: Re: Time to boycott Photo CD
Reply-To: dougb@ecs.comm.mot.com
Organization: Motorola Land Mobile Products Sector
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 17:53:56 GMT


|> Now for a question.  The consumer machines allow zooming and cropping
|> of the images.  You can also choose to skip some images or play them 
|> back in a different order.  How does the machine store this info.
|> You can't write to the CD, can you?  If it stores in inside the machine,
|> what happens when you take it to another player?  Anybody know?

Well, to answer my own question..... Motorola is having a supplier showcase 
out in a tent in the parking lot.  Kodak is there with the PhotoCD (god only
knows why - they are touting some business applications, etc).  So I asked
the salesguy my question.  And the answer is.......

"Duh, I don't know...... Uhhhh, maybe it's in the machine..... Uhhh, you
see you press the keep button and it remembers.... Uhhh, I'm not sure."

Oh well....

-- 
Doug Bank                       Private Systems Division
dougb@ecs.comm.mot.com          Motorola Communications Sector
dougb@nwu.edu                   Schaumburg, Illinois
dougb@casbah.acns.nwu.edu       708-576-8207                    
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: goldis@news.weeg.uiowa.edu (Al Goldis)
Subject: Re: Pushing Kodak Ektapress
Organization: University of Iowa, Iowa City, IA, USA
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1992 03:16:02 GMT

In <1992Aug28.174258.3231@pony.Ingres.COM> bbarton@Ingres.COM (Brian Barton) writes:

>In article <1992Aug28.010125.5490@mprgate.mpr.ca>, mcvey@mpr.ca (Iain McVey)   writes...
>>I just got some Ektapress 100 and 400 professional and was going to try
>>shooting some rolls at their pushed speeds.
>> 
>>Anything to watch out for?

Yes.  Ektapress 100 is not designed to be pushed.  Only the 400 and
1600 speeds are.

>Yeah!  Grain.  Look out for tons of it, too.  That stuff is just atrocious
>in my opinion.
>
>Sorry.  I don't have any alternative to recommend except slide film. :)

Perhaps you are thinking of some other type of film.  Ektapress films
have grain and sharpness approximately equal to slide film that is at
least two stops slower.
--
Al Goldis           alan-goldis@uiowa.edu
"Pictures are moments truth, touched by light, that show character."
                          --Annie Griffiths-Belt
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: carruth@mksol.dseg.ti.com (matthew carruth)
Subject: Re: looking for information on pinhole photography.
Keywords: pinhole lens
Organization: internet
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 20:12:25 GMT

There was a good article in Scientific American around '85.  It went into 
a lot of how-to detail and had some examples.
-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
My views are my own and do not reflect those of my employeers....
From: koonj@hpsgl1.sgp.hp.com (Koon-Jan LIM)
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 05:34:05 GMT
Subject: Re: Running 110v enlarger with 240v supply
Organization: Asia Peripherals Division, HP Singapore
Newsgroups: rec.photo

In rec.photo, koonj@hpsgl1.sgp.hp.com (Koon-Jan LIM) writes:



a           sorry for whatever happened. I'll retype.

    	    ******************************************************************

    	    For me, it was the other way round.
    	    I was posted to the States and I brought my 240v 50 Hz slide projector
    	    with me. I used a 110 to 240 transformer but the lamp kept blowing out.
    	    I asked around and got answers that either I don't understand fully or
    	    are vague. They include; 
    	    1) different frequencies 50Hz versus 60Hz.
    	    2) transformer manufacturer's recommendations not to use their transformer
	       with a transformer powered equiment. (they did not explain why)m

             To this day, I still don't have any solutions but I am more interested
	     in knowing why can't a transformer be used with a transformer powered
	     equipment. Anybody to shed some light?

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: pkuo@leland.Stanford.EDU (Paohua Kuo)
Subject: photo processing labs in the bay area
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Distribution: ba
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 92 01:21:25 GMT

I'm looking for recommendations for photo processing labs in the
bay area that will handle 120 (2.5x2.5") negatives.  I'm not a 
professional photographer - so I'd need to use one that deals
with the general public.  Thanks.

--pkuo@leland.stanford.edu
From: Rick.Ellis@ofa123.fidonet.org
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: T-Max films
Date: 1 Sep 92 18:55:49 GMT
X-Sender: newtout 0.02 Aug 21 1992

On <Aug 31 13:55> Robert Feltman writes:

 RF> I have found T-Max 100 to be as forgiving in HC110 (B) as is Tri-X. The
 RF> major difference for me has been a rather short N-1 dev. time. Otherwise
 RF> I have found T-Max 100 to be very controllable.

Could the N-1 time be lengthened with a more dilute solution?
From: finn@isi.edu (Greg Finn)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: AF speeds
Date: 3 Sep 92 21:54:40 GMT
Reply-To: finn@dalek.isi.edu (Greg Finn)
Distribution: usa
Organization: USC-Information Sciences Institute

In article <1992Sep3.043649.16482@PacBell.COM> jpglori@srv.PacBell.COM (John P. Gloria) writes:

	No problem.

> ...  I am curious though on your method(s) used
>in your controlled setting.  What measurement tool/guide
>did you employ to determine focusing speed?

	I used a white board in a large conference room.  Using a
tripod I set up at a couple of focal length multiples away from the
board, 10 and 20 if I remember correctly, and farther for short focal
lengths.  Load fresh battery sets.  I verified that neither the F4 nor
the 8000i could AF on it.  This is no surprise ... flat white and no
contrast.  Body AF illuminator was disabled, no flash, and so on.

	Measuring and mounting the cameras on tripods I outlined the
sensitive AF regions on the white boards in black.  Lenses set wide
open, which were approximately equal for the lenses that I tested.
Same focal lengths of course, small, middle, large for zooms.  I then
placed in the middle of the zones a small box 1/2 the narrow dimension
of the focus zone on the white board.

	Set the focus to the closest equal non-macro focusing distance
and infinity.  Punch the shutter release for AF and listen.  So after
all that careful set-up I didn't accurately measure the focus times.
I determined that the difference appeared too small for me to notice.
Your mileage may vary.  The lenses I tested were the middle consumer
quality zooms: 35-70, 28-85, 70-300, 75-300, or whatever was as close
as possible with the Minolta and Nikon AF lines at the time (June
1990).

	Since then, Nikon has redesigned its line, certainly the
28-85, possibly the 75-300, but I think that was already an "N"
version.  The F4 has remained the same but the 8000i is no longer the
top of the line Minolta.  Their newer bodies may be faster.

--
Gregory Finn	(310) 822-1511
Information Sciences Institute, Marina Del Rey, CA 90292