HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: pngai@adobe.com (Phil Ngai)
Subject: Re: want to drill and thread holes
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 06:21:08 GMT

In article <4157@ecicrl.ocunix.on.ca> clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis) writes:
>And careful reasoning (rather than "oh no, you're crazy, you must
>be new, don't do that!" ;-) works (you did finally manage to find 1lb
>refillables didn't you, Phil? ;-)

I think the question of newness depends on the topic. Certainly I am
not new to USENET, but neither have I done much with metal working.
Gary is right about the number of holes being way too high, I'll
probably want to increase the grid to two inches or so. I didn't mean
to claim the parameters I mentioned were optimal, in fact, I was
particularly looking for comments on good values for the parameters.

As for propane bottles, I did find one source (Alpha Supply, a
jeweler's supply) but never bought any due to the high cost.  (about
$20 each). I decided that I understood the safety issue well enough
to go with the NRC type, based particularly on postings by John and
also the safety warnings on a 20 pound bottle I bought.

Essentially, the problem is that a bottle full of liquid will have to
vent under moderate heat such as in an auto because the liquid is
non-compressible but expands with heat. The bottles designed for
refilling simply have a vent which allows you to fill the bottle
without overfilling so you will always have a gaseous space which
allows for liquid expansion.

An alternative mechanism is to weight the bottle. The larger refillable
ones always are labeled as to their weight when properly filled. The
NRC type are not labeled in this way but it is easy to make your own
measurements.

The actual transfer was surprisingly easy. Just invert the big bottle
and leave them connected for about 10 minutes.

Warning: user assumes all responsibility for use. It is a violation of
Federal law to transport a refilled NRC bottle. I suggest you limit
storage and use of such bottles to the outdoors and never ever put
one in a automobile. It may also be illegal to refill an NRC bottle
but I never saw it in writing. The written warnings on the NRC bottles
only refer to transportation being illegal.

BTW what scares me is the thought of acetylene bottles in cars.
I may be wrong, but my impression is that acetylene explodes over
a much wider range of air to gas ratios and has more energy too.

-- 
My opinions are my own.

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: mj7633@ireland.medtronic.com (Mark Jacoby)
Subject: Re: Help!  Snapped off a bolt!
Organization: Medtronic, Inc., Minneapolis, MN
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 14:29:01 GMT

>Edward Smierciak writes:
>: In assembling my new table saw, I got carried away...
>

As a refinement to the suggestions to saw/file a screwdriver slot
into the end of the bolt, I use my "dremel" moto-tool with a cut-off
abrasive wheel (a thin grinding wheel) and I can even  slot a bolt
that is broken off flush. This is also very useful in removing 
stripped slotted screws.

Good luck,

mark


-- 
mark jacoby

mj7633@medtronic.com		612-574-8548
From: craig@cv.hp.com (Craig Durland)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Oxy/Acet welding problems
Date: 26 Jan 93 20:55:17 GMT
Reply-To: craig@cv.hp.com
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8.5]

Charles K. Scott (Charles.K.Scott@dartmouth.edu) wrote:

> I've read a number of different books on welding and I just never seem
> to find any information on precise pressures to use.

I have Victor guages.  The local welding shop says the rule of thumb to
use for acetylene is the psi should be the same as the tip size ie a #3
takes 3 psi.  I use #000 tips a lot and had to get a two stage regulater
to keep the gas pressure from surging at the low pressures.

> The welding I'm doing requires me to weld one piece to another at a 90
> degree angle.  I have to bend a piece into a U shape and weld the U to
> a plate.

T welds are a pain.  Trying to concentrate the heat in the corner is
hard to do.  This is where arc welding is nice.

> I'm also using a 1/16" rod which my friend also says is incorrect, he
> feels 3/32 would be better.  1/8" is too big.

For .035", I would use .040" rod - 1/16" is too big (for TIG anyway).  I
do a lot of TIG welding on thin wall tubes (.023" to .040") and found
the .040" rod works much better than the 1/16" stuff - easier to control
and better bead shape.

> It appears to me that a lot of things have to come together to make a
> satisfactory weld.  The books I've read on aircraft welding say that
> the rod is dipped into the puddle and kept there and the puddle and
> rod and tip are all moved down the area to be welded in one fluid
> motion.

Or you can make a puddle, dip the rod in and then move.

> One of the problems, among the many, is that I have to use so much
> heat to get things molten that the hand holding the rod gets too hot

Get gloves - the rod shouldn't get all that hot.  The plate your hand is
resting on will (on the other hand).

> Is there a specific pressure setting for the regulators and does it
> vary according to the thickness or type of metal being welded?

I don't think so - set the acetylene and adjust the oxy to get the flame
type needed.  Different thickness need different tips.

    Craig Durland       (503) 750-3354
    Hewlett-Packard, 1000 NE Circle, Corvallis, OR 97330
    craig@cv.hp.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: steveh@psg.com (Steve Hampson)
Subject: Re: anybody do much blacksmithing?  how about forge welding?
Organization: Pacific Systems Group, Portland Oregon US
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 07:30:25 GMT

In article <1993Jan20.220849.18869@organpipe.uug.arizona.edu> tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin) writes:
>I have been trying to forge weld high carbon steel (files or springs)
>to soft steel to make tools.   I have some success when the soft iron
>almost totally encloses the high carbon,  but when the high carbon steel
>is largely exposed I have a lot of problems with burning.   If I
>heat it to a yellow heat it doesn't seem to weld, but if I heat it to
>a white heat I get burning and cracks running throughout the high
>carbon steel.

Tool steels weld at a lower temperature than mild steel.  This also
means that they will meld and burn at a lower temperature also.  While
heating the mild steel to welding temperature, heat the high carbon to
slightly lower temperature in a different part of the fire.  Quickly
place the tool steel where desired above the fluxed mild steel piece
without removing it from the fire.  The mild steel will protect the
tool steel a little while both are heated a little more.  Pull them
out and weld.

>Is the high carbon steel more susceptible to Sulfur and other impurities
>in the coal than soft steel?

No.

>Should I use commercial coke?

I wouldn't.  You can ruin your fire pot from the high heat output.

>Should I use a really deep bed of coal?  Any suggestions?

A deep bed is always a good idea.  Also, building your fire in the form
of a "cave" helps.
-- 
Steve Hampson                       steveh@m2xenix.psg.com
17624 Schalit Way                   home (503) 636-6966
Lake Oswego, OR  97035              work (503) 222-9571
USA
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: badboy@netcom.com (Jay Keller)
Subject: Re: IC engines.
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 09:16:30 GMT

In article <1k1abhINNcah@news.cerf.net> jonesm@nic.cerf.net 
(Matthew Jones) writes:

>Anyone out there want to talk internal combustion gas engines? I am 
>considering buying plans or ME reprints for the following models (I'm
>not rich enough for castings.):
>
>Seal, Sealion, Seagul, Duplex Mariner.
>
>I also have the plans for Harold Depenbusch's (sp?) hit and miss engine.
>I've never built an IC engine and have a very small lathe, is the hit and
>miss a good choice for a first?
>
>I think a 4 cycle with exposed, valves looks the best, but maybe a two cycle
>would be better to start with. 
>
>I think the 15-25 cc range would be best for my lathe, is 15 so small that 
>I will need tweesers to make the small parts?

If we assume a "square" engine (bore=stroke), the piston diameter for a
single-cylinder 15cc engine would be about 2.67 cm, approximately 1 inch,
so I don't think the small parts would be too microscopic.

Regards,

Jay Keller
badboy@netcom.com
From: markf@cs.tamu.edu (Mark A Fleming)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Double threads
Date: 28 Jan 1993 01:06:15 GMT
Organization: Computer Science Department, Texas A&M University
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: neuron.tamu.edu


In article <1993Jan27.094439.420@news.uwyo.edu> jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu writes:
>I have a few interesting items in my scrap box (handles from removable
>disk packs, including the part that threads into the spindle of the
>disk drive), and just realized last night that they include a moderately
>rare type of thread.  It looked and measured as 3/8-24, but upon further
>inspection (and the fact that my 3/8-24 die would not screw onto it)
>I realized that it is "double threaded."  Is that the proper term?

     I've never run across such a tap in any general purpose catalog, but as
you suggest, a thread can be cut on a lathe which has a thread-cutting index
attachment.  You might also be able to modify an existing four flute tap to
cut such threads by selectively removing teeth.  Take say a 3/8-24 and remove
alternate teeth from opposite flutes.  Or, of course, just cut the required
thread in drill rod, shape for flute and temper, then harden.

maf
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: iba@kronos.arc.nasa.gov (Wayne Iba)
Subject: Re: Oxy/Acet welding problems
Organization: NASA/ARC Information Sciences Division
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 02:22:37 GMT

dparsons@plasma.ps.uci.edu () writes:

>When you are brazing the correct flux is important and the flame is important.
>The flame must be an oxidizing flame, that is to say as the piece heats up you
>should observe that it appears to get cleaner.  It is not a hissing kind of 
>flame out of the tip, it is quite, gentle with a somewhat long blue finger
>of flame at the end.


I could easily be wrong, but don't you have these reversed?
The oxidizing flame has no _long_ blue finger but a white short
flame and lots of hiss.  The carburizing (sp?) flame has
the long blue flame surrounding the little white cone.

Please correct me as necessary.

--wayne (iba@ptolemy.arc.nasa.gov)
From: Charles.K.Scott@dartmouth.edu (Charles K. Scott)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Oxy/Acet welding problems
Date: 26 Jan 93 18:21:32 GMT
 <2B656A90.13919@news.service.uci.edu>
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH
X-Posted-From: InterNews1.0a5@newshost.dartmouth.edu

In article <2B656A90.13919@news.service.uci.edu>
dparsons@plasma.ps.uci.edu () writes:

> The 
> regulator pressures are not all that important as the flame adjustment is
> made at the knobs in the torch handle.

Ok, so far so good.  Now a comment about technique.  I spoke with my
father in law who used to weld A LOT about welding thinking I could
interest him in what I'm doing and learn something.  Unfortunately, he
welded so long ago that the techniques he used have now been
discredited.  For instance, he said he used to chop up pieces of the
material he was gone to weld and used that as welding rod.  Everything
I've read lately tells me that you really should not be using the same
material for a rod that the pieces to be welded.  He also said he used
to heat the rod and let the molten material drip onto the weld area. 
This would produce a very poor weld from aircraft standards because the
base metal would not be heated enough to bond the dripping slag.  So my
attempt to include my father in law came to nought.  I don't dare use
any of his suggestions as they are improper technique for a penetrating
and high strength weld.

Does anyone have any comment about the size of the rod (with regard to
the thickness of the material I'm welding,.080") and the technique I
mentioned about keeping the rod in the puddle as the puddle is moved
along.  Is this what everyone does?

Thanks again, Corky Scott
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: kish@infiniti.watson.ibm.com (Bill Kish)
Subject: Re: Oxy/Acet welding problems
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 93 21:05:28 GMT
Reply-To: kish@infiniti.watson.ibm.com (Bill Kish)
Organization: IBM TJ Watson Research

In article <C1GsAw.7GE@dartvax.dartmouth.edu>,
Charles.K.Scott@dartmouth.edu (Charles K. Scott) 
writes:

 Text deleted...
 
|> The welding I'm doing requires me to weld one piece to another at a 90
|> degree angle.  I have to bend a piece into a U shape and weld the U to
|> a plate.  I've discovered that welding into the angle isn't easy and I
|> must be missing something in the set up.  

  From your description, I'm guessing that your piece is going to look like 
  this:

                             ________
                                 U

  It's tough to weld at the U to the plate in part because the edge of the 
  U will tend to get hotter faster than the center of the plate and the edge 
  will tend to burn away... It's important to direct the heat in such a way 
  that the U and the plate will reach the melting point at the same time.

|> It appears to me that a lot of things have to come together to make a
|> satisfactory weld.  The books I've read on aircraft welding say that
|> the rod is dipped into the puddle and kept there and the puddle and rod
|> and tip are all moved down the area to be welded in one fluid motion. 
|> Easier said than done, I haven't achieved this ideal yet.  

  When I weld, I heat the pieces to be joined to the melting point and then I 
  introduce the rod just above the puddle... The rod heats up almost instantly 
  and by moving the rod closer to the flame, I can cause a drop to fall
off the 
  rod into the puddle. Producing a bead consists of moving the torch in the 
  direction of the bead and causing a series of these drops to fall off at 
  regular intervals.  The drop from the rod should flow right into the puddle
  and in the case of your 90 degree angle should form a nice fillet. I
try not to 
  let the rod touch the puddle since it tends to want to stay there!

|> One of the problems, among the many, is that I have to use so much 
|> heat to get things molten that the hand holding the rod gets too hot 
|> and makes me jumpy. 
|>
  
  You might need to use more heat. If it takes a long time to form a puddle
  you wind up heating the entire work piece (causes warping too).  



				Good Luck !

				Bill
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: badboy@netcom.com (Jay Keller)
Subject: Re: How to remove cross-threaded bolt...?
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 07:48:51 GMT

In article <C1C94H.KMI@athena.cs.uga.edu> mcovingt@athena.cs.uga.edu 
(Michael A. Covington) writes:

>Today I bought a small used circular saw very cheaply, then, on getting
>home, found out why it was so cheap.  The blade is slightly off-center and
>the bolt that holds it cannot be removed.  My best guess is that the
>bolt is in fact cross-threaded (which would account for the unremovability
>and the off-centeredness).
>
>How should I approach the problem of removing it?  So far, I've put a C-clamp
>on the blade (rendering it immobile) and have used an open-end wrench on
>the bolt, with no success, even hitting the wrench with a hammer.  Spraying
>WD-40 on the bolt and leaving it for 30 minutes didn't work.

Take it to a nearbly friendly car mechanic and have him try an air wrench
on it.  It should come out, and he probably won't charge you.  If the threads
are chewed, however, it won't be easy to repair unless maybe you can get 
access to the right size tap.  Even then it's hard because you have to keep the
shaft from turning so you can re-tap it.

In any case, you need to get the bolt out to evaluate the situation.

Regards,

Jay Keller
Sunnyvale, California
badboy@netcom.com
From: darkstar@u.pathology.washington.edu (Alden Hackmann)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Looking for blacksmith in Seattle area
Date: 28 Jan 1993 01:28:23 GMT
Organization: University of Washington
NNTP-Posting-Host: larry.pathology.washington.edu


I have some minor blacksmithing that I need for building a hurdy-gurdy.  I am  
in the Seattle area.  If you are interested, please email me.  

--

Alden F.M. Hackmann                             University of Washington
darkstar@u.washington.edu                       Department of Pathology

"You can know, even for a moment, that it's your turn, 
 that you can walk with the power of a thousand generations"  - Bruce Cockburn
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: fields@pacvax.UUCP (Daniel A. Fields)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re:  Machine shop work
Date: 25 Jan 93 15:18:57 GMT
Organization: Pacer Software Inc., Westborough, MA USA

I have an old "egg beater" hand drill that I would like to fix.

The shaft ( to which the chuck is attached ) goes through a bearing at the
"buisness end" of the drill, then through the gear ( that drives it via
hand crank ) and then into the frame of the drill.  The hole that is 
machined in the frame which receives the shaft ( as well as the shaft ) has 
long ago worn out of tolerance.  This causes the shaft to wobble when 
operated.  Can this hole be re-machined and then fitted ( possibly with
some type  of "sleeve" ) to stop the "wobbling"?  Also do machine shops 
accept this type of work?  I guess I would have to go to somthing like a 
"job shop" - do these exist in the machine shop world?

Any suggestions - Thanks

Dan Fields
Pacer Software, Inc.
1900 West park Drive,
Suite 280
Westborough, Ma. 01581
508 8983300
From: steveh@psg.com (Steve Hampson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Double threads
Date: 28 Jan 93 08:39:47 GMT
Organization: Pacific Systems Group, Portland Oregon US

In article <1k7bi7INNb43@tamsun.tamu.edu> markf@cs.tamu.edu (Mark A Fleming) writes:
>
>In article <1993Jan27.094439.420@news.uwyo.edu> jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu writes:
>>I have a few interesting items in my scrap box (handles from removable
>>disk packs, including the part that threads into the spindle of the
>>disk drive), and just realized last night that they include a moderately
>>rare type of thread.  It looked and measured as 3/8-24, but upon further
>>inspection (and the fact that my 3/8-24 die would not screw onto it)
>>I realized that it is "double threaded."  Is that the proper term?
>
>     I've never run across such a tap in any general purpose catalog, but as
>you suggest, a thread can be cut on a lathe which has a thread-cutting index
>attachment.  You might also be able to modify an existing four flute tap to
>cut such threads by selectively removing teeth.  Take say a 3/8-24 and remove
>alternate teeth from opposite flutes.  Or, of course, just cut the required
>thread in drill rod, shape for flute and temper, then harden.

This will not work.  A double thread is two spirals together like a
double helix.  You can't start with a single threaded screw and
convert it into a double threaded one because the pitch of one of the
helices in a double thread is twice that of a single thread helix.
Double and triple threads are used where rapid traversal is needed.  I
have seen old woodworking tenon marking tools that have a double
thread on the screw that moves the inner scribe in and out.

Double and triple threads add another dimension to the normal thread
cutting problems.  Think about it.  You cut one thread at twice the
normal pitch and then go back and start the second one half a
revolution away.  Just how do you do this?  The book "Screwcutting in
the Lathe", Martin Cleeve, Argus Books, England, contains all the
information one would need.

This book is volume 3 of the 21 volume (and growing) "Workshop
Practice Series".  I recommend the series to any home shop machinist.
-- 
Steve Hampson                       steveh@m2xenix.psg.com
17624 Schalit Way                   home (503) 636-6966
Lake Oswego, OR  97035              work (503) 222-9571
USA
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: recommendations for band saw needed
From: eln@telerama.pgh.pa.us (Eric Nilson)
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 15:48:14 GMT
Organization: Telerama
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8]

: I'm getting ready to spend some $250 on a band saw for metal.
: I've never bought one before so I'm trying to find out what
: kind of features to look for, things to avoid, and any specific
: recommendations, both positive and negative.

Sounds like you are looking at the 4x6 Taiwanese band saws.  I just bought
one (with great trepidation) marketed by Delta.  While the thing is a bit
cheesey around the edges (what can you expect for that kind of money), it
works very well.

I've been cutting all kinds of sections with it (up to 3" rounds) and the
cuts are square and smooth.  I did spring for bimetal blades.
From: dparsons@plasma.ps.uci.edu ()
Subject: Re: How to remove cross-threaded bolt...?
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8]
Distribution: usa
Date: 26 Jan 93 13:59:23 GMT

Michael A. Covington (mcovingt@athena.cs.uga.edu) wrote:
: Today I bought a small used circular saw very cheaply, then, on getting
: home, found out why it was so cheap.  The blade is slightly off-center and
: the bolt that holds it cannot be removed.  My best guess is that the
: bolt is in fact cross-threaded (which would account for the unremovability
: and the off-centeredness).
: + Michael A. Covington
: + Artificial Intelligence Programs
: + The University of Georgia
: + Athens, GA 30602-7415i
 
Michael,

Circular saw huh?  I know I shouldn't ask this, but isn't that bolt left hand
threaded?

Dave Parsons
From: dparsons@plasma.ps.uci.edu ()
Subject: Threads of thought
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8]
Date: 28 Jan 93 15:20:52 GMT

That double lead thread posting got me thinking about threads so I thought
I would throw these thoughts out for you craftsmen to think about.

Have you ever looked at the thread situation that is used on the adjusting
block of most Bar tap handles?  The thread inside a thread for quick yet
strong adjustment?  Good idea!

I have also seen the antithesis of this method for very fine adjustments.  A
fine right hand thread goes through some adjusting block and then a smaller
fine left hand thread screws into a stationary block.  When the bolt is turned
the threads nearly cancle each other out and the resulting motion is smooth
and precise.

I just thought you'd like to think about it.

Dave Parsons


Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: ajackson@ernie.Princeton.EDU (Andrew William Jackson)
Subject: Re: want to drill and thread holes
Originator: news@nimaster
Organization: Princeton University
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 06:46:02 GMT

In article <146933@lll-winken.LLNL.GOV> gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot) writes:
>In article <1993Jan19.063825.7657@adobe.com>, pngai@adobe.com (Phil Ngai) writes:
>> 
>> I was thinking of making an aluminum plate, perhaps 18 inches square,
>> with a grid of threaded holes, perhaps 1 inch apart.
>
>
>... holes on 1" spacing means about 17 X 17 holes to tap.  That's 289
>holes, folks.  I don't know about you, but that many holes would be a chore
>to drill even with a drill press, let alone tap by hand. 
>What you want is 3/4 or thicker aluminum jig plate, which is stress-relieved
>aluminum plate that's been surface milled flat.  Given the size, you are
>probably as well off to use layout blue, scribe lines, and punch center
>marks as to use an Incra jig.  If you have a mill or a friend with a mill,
>then the best way is to center drill on the mill and drill on a press unless
>the mill has DRO.  If it has DRO, do everything on the mill.

3/4" jig plate!  are you kidding.  He wants to use this for woodworking.
I think jig plate is not necessary and 1/2 or 3/8 thick should be fine.

ajackson@ernie.princeton.edu