HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: serafin@epcot.spdc.ti.com (Mike Serafin)
Subject: Re: god please don't flame me...
Organization: TI Semiconductor Process and Design Center
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 21:30:10 GMT

In article <1992Sep1.202606.13997@worldbank.org> aki <aki@atlas.worldbank.org> writes:
>
>I REALLY feel stupid for asking this question but..
>just what _exactly_ is a carboy?  I noticed in
>a previous post that someone mentioned they
>bought a whole bunch of stuff from a local
>homebrew shop for $44 including a carboy and
>I've seen lots of discussions mentioning carboys.
>Is this something I need?  Does it replace
>bottles? Gawd I feel stupid...please don't
>laugh at me..I'm new at all this...:-( ...
>
>-aki

It's one of them thangs you use to fermant yer beer.  Ya know, like a water
bottle or some such thang.  You can find 'em either plastic or glass in varus
sizes.  I got somma dem 7 gallon glass carboys I use fer my brew.
From: jliddil@azcc.arizona.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Newsgroup problem
Date: 3 Sep 92 23:38:41 GMT
Organization: University of Arizona UNIX Users Group

Is this news group working properly or is our server messed up?
I can't get my directory to update for rec.crafts.brewing
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: gak@wrs.com (Richard Stueven)
Subject: Re: Real People Drink Real Beer
Reply-To: gak@wrs.com
Organization: Wind River Systems, Inc.
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 16:21:32 GMT

In article 24405@rchland.ibm.com, james@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (James White) writes:
>Since you are quoting people I will quote Dave Barry, that rather interesting columist.
>
>"On Making Homemade Beer:  [...] you become the target of an
>investigation by child welfare authorities because yours is the only
>child who comes to preschool smelling like a fraternity carpet."

Dave Barry also points out that in the US we drink Barry Manilow beer,
while the rest of the world is drinking Ray Charles.

(He wrote that long before these stupid Pepsi commercials.)

---
gak			Der Herr Buergermeister gibt bekannt, dass ab
gak@wrs.com		Donnerstag Bier gebraut wird und deshalb ab
attmail!gakhaus!gak	Mittwoch nicht mehr in den Bach geschissen
107/H/3&4		werden darf.
From: devenzia@euler.jsc.nasa.gov (John DeVenezia)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: sterilization with a microwave?????
Date: 2 Sep 1992 18:05:59 GMT
Organization: LESC

In article <binkley.715448572@beagle>, binkley@boulder.Colorado.EDU (Jon Binkley) writes:
> 
> I wrote:
> 
> >I'll take 3 250 mL flasks, one autoclaved, two non-sterile.  I'll
> >rinse the two non-sterile flasks with tap water, then microwave
> >one of them for 30 seconds, as prescribed above.  I will add 25 mL
> >of sterile bacterial growth media to each flask, cover, and set
> >aside at room temperature for a few days.  I'll report any
> >growth in the flasks The autoclaved flask should have no growth,
> >and thus will be a control for my rusty sterile technique.
> >The rinsed, non-microwaved flask should be a microbial zoo.
> >We shall see where the microwaved flask falls.  Does this sound
> >fair?
> 
> Well, the results are confusing.  There's growth in the microwaved
> flask, but NOT the other two.  Since the control that was
> supposed to have growth in it didn't, any conclusions drawn
> would be suspect (except the conclusion that I'm a sloppy scientist!).
> 
> If I get inspired I might repeat it, being more careful next time.
> 
> Jon
> 

Ah ha!  Microwaves not only don't sterilize your equipment but cause
bacteria to spontenously generate.  Those innocent looking, popcorn
popping, coffee heating microwave oven things are more dangerous then
even their harshest critics gave them credit.

Of course this conclusion is suspect.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: mol@jyu.fi (Mika O. Latokartano)
Subject: Adding priming sugar
Organization: University of Jyvaskyla, Finland
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 08:46:13 GMT


  I just put my 2nd batch (kit) ever to a start on wednesday, and it
  seems to be fermenting nicely.  I've read the FAQ but couldn't find
  answers to a couple of questions - maybe you can help!  (These
  must have been asked before, I'm sure, but I'm a relative newcomer
  to this excellent and informative list so I haven't seen answers to
  these questions yet.)

  First, I gather the best way to add priming sugar is to add it to 
  the fermenter or separate priming cask before bottling, not to the bottles.
  My batch is 25 litres (6.6 gallons US, 5.5 gallons UK) of Munton's Scottish 
  Export.
  The gravity, having added the sugar, was 1030 and the instructions say
  it should ferment down to 1008 or below.  Before bottling, how much
  priming sugar should I add to the wort (forgive me if this term is
  incorrect - the English brewing terms are not all quite clear to me
  yet)?  Shall I mix the sugar with water and boil it before adding to
  the priming cask?  How much water should I use?  I don't want to water the
  batch down.

  I'm planning on brewing this batch one-stage fermenting only - just
  to get the idea how things are done.  Should I still get another
  cask in which to pour the priming sugar, then siphon the beer (or
  is it still called wort at this stage, or what?) from the fermenter in
  it to mix it nicely, and bottle it from the priming cask?  Or is it
  ok to add the priming sugar straight to the fermenter (I guess it is
  not the best idea)?

  I still have some questions to ask, but I think I've troubled you
  enough for now.  I appreciate any replies!

	Cheers!
			- Mika




-- 
[  Mika O. Latokartano		|	"Oh, goody!  My Aludium-Q-36-	     ]
[  Internet : mol@jyu.fi     	|	 Explosive Space-Modulator!"         ]
[  mol@vipunen.hut.fi          	|		- Marvin Martian	     ]

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: gak@wrs.com (Richard Stueven)
Subject: Re: Why Don't Women Brew?
Reply-To: gak@wrs.com
Organization: Wind River Systems, Inc.
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 16:19:16 GMT

Lost Coast Brewery in Eureka CA is owned by a woman, and the brewmaster
is also a woman.  Both of their names escape me now...

They make a truly brilliant brown ale, "Downtown Brown".

---
gak			Der Herr Buergermeister gibt bekannt, dass ab
gak@wrs.com		Donnerstag Bier gebraut wird und deshalb ab
attmail!gakhaus!gak	Mittwoch nicht mehr in den Bach geschissen
107/H/3&4		werden darf.

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: amcmicha@gmuvax2.gmu.edu (Andrew McMichael)
Subject: Re: cost of a carboy
Organization: George Mason University, Fairfax, Va.
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 14:28:36 GMT

-->
[andy@comp.vuw.ac.nz (Andy Bond)] asks:
What does a new 5 or 6 gallon carboy go for in the US?  I can get one
here for about NZ$75 which is ahh, something like, ummm US$40
-->

A 5 gallon carboy [Sparkletts water bottle-type] goes for about
$10/US here in the Washington D.C. area.
From: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us (Joseph Nathan Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: shipping beer
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 92 22:38:15 EDT
Organization: 5 Sigma Software
Reply-To: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us
Distribution: usa
X-Mailer: uAccess - Macintosh Release: 1.5v5


In article <1992Sep2.155502.6432@epas.toronto.edu> (rec.crafts.brewing), burgess@epas.utoronto.ca (A. Burgess) writes:
) Well, here's a sort of summary of what I've learned about shipping 
) beer:

First, contact the AHA at Box 1679, Boulder CO 80306, (303) 447-0816.
They have an information packet that should help you (but which I
haven't seen).

Second, I have sent beer via Fedex before.   Their literature seems
to suggest that they normally only ship alcoholic beverages between
qualified distributors, but when I didn't tell them what was in the
box, they shipped my beer, too.

There is some kind of particular exception for brews shipped "for
analytical purposes," i.e., to contests and labs.  Even the US mail
will ship beer in this circumstance (supposedly).  You may have to
argue with the clerk, but that is what the AHA packet is for.

Motor freight might be an option.

When you discuss shipping beer, be sure to mention that it is homebrew,
and not store-bought.  You are allowed (in the US) to transport reasonable
quantities of homebrew from state to state for the purposes of private
consumption.  I don't know whether that means you are allowed to ship
it, but ....

Let us know what you find out!

uunet!joebloe!joseph   (609) 273-8200 day   joseph%joebloe@uunet.uu.net
v   v  sssss | Certified Guru: all-grain brewing,| 2102 Ryan's Run East
 v v  s   s  | C, synthesizer comp & arranging,  | Rt 38 & 41
  v    sss   | photography. Also not a bad cook. | Maple Shade NJ 08052
-----My employer isn't paying for this, and my opinions are my own-----
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: James B. Wilkinson <wilkins@cs.cofc.edu>
Subject: Re: ROACHES!
X-Xxdate: Mon, 31 Aug 92 18:56:28 GMT
Organization: The College of Charleston
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d9
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 92 22:55:22 GMT

In article <0JB0PB2w165w@brewich.hou.tx.us> Vlaad Thunarsson,
vlaad@brewich.hou.tx.us writes:
>> >Any other solutions for getting rid of roaches would help as well.
I once had some "Roach Motels".  They were boxes with sticky bottoms and
holes to let the roaches inside.  They got stuck and never came back out.
 I always thought they ought to be easy and cheap to make at home if you
could get the right stuff to paint onto the bottoms.  Anybody got any
ideas?  This IS a do-it-yourself group.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: guido@island.COM (Guido Marx)
Subject: Water - another question
Organization: Island Graphics Corp.  San Rafael, Ca.
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 16:41:31 GMT

Here is another question about water.  My great-grandfather
built a small cabin on a lake in the Tahoe basin.  This cabin's
water supply comes from a small spring.  It is without a doubt,
the best water I have ever tasted.  I have been toying with the
idea of bringing my carboy and filling it up with water to brew
a batch the next time I visit.  I am currently making extract
brews.  Does anyone think this will be worth the hassle ?

Guido
From: sbeitzel@wet.UUCP (Stephen Beitzel)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: wort chilling with ice cold water
Keywords: wort chilling
Date: 25 Aug 92 18:17:56 GMT
Organization: Wetware Diversions, San Francisco

In article <1992Aug24.203744.22413@terminator.cc.umich.edu> markg@itd.umich.edu writes:
>Is there anything wrong with chilling your wort by combining the hot
>concentrate [by adding very cold water]

This is the way I cooled my first brew, and it turned out just fine.  One
caution, though, is that you should pour the cold into the hot, rather than
the other way around.  The reason being that the cold water will tend to sit
on the bottom of the fermenter, and little mixing will occur.  By pouring
the cold in, then it passes through the hot wort and starts a convection
current going.  Imagine trying to make a tan & black rather than black &
tan.
-- 
Stephen Beitzel  -- sbeitzel@wet.com   | "Life is Pain,   |
"Ownership of the above opinions       | and love is a    |  "Relax."
depends solely on how offended you are | Lie."            |  J. Burton
by them."                              |   R. Sarbacker   |
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: gak@wrs.com (Richard Stueven)
Subject: Re: brewpub in DC!
Reply-To: gak@wrs.com
Organization: Wind River Systems, Inc.
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 16:04:35 GMT

In article 20696@cgrg.ohio-state.edu, djh@osc.edu (David Heisterberg) writes:
>Capitol City Brewing, perhaps?  It's next-door to the Convention Center.
>I was just there this past week.  They've only just opened and aren't
>even serving their own beer yet

A usually reliable source tells me that their first batch is due on September 9.

---
gak			Der Herr Buergermeister gibt bekannt, dass ab
gak@wrs.com		Donnerstag Bier gebraut wird und deshalb ab
attmail!gakhaus!gak	Mittwoch nicht mehr in den Bach geschissen
107/H/3&4		werden darf.
From: cpalmer@ohstpy.mps.ohio-state.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: returning carboys
Date: 2 Sep 92 17:40:16 GMT
Article-I.D.: ohstpy.13612.2aa4c440

I use phosphoric acid to clean, but -no- method of cleaning is 100%.
returning them is just one more way to be sure of sanitation.
Maybe a bit frivolus, but the co-op is only a few blocks away...
Xref: sparky rec.crafts.brewing:5158 talk.environment:3504
From: pcj1@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu (Pierre Jelenc)
Subject: Re: Cl + Nh4 Makes ?
Reply-To: pcj1@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu (Pierre Jelenc)
Organization: Columbia University
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 02:09:09 GMT

In article <1992Aug31.214034.6754@srg.srg.af.mil> akerson@deimos.srg.af.mil (Pete Akerson - akerson%srg@uunet.uucp) writes:
>
>
>My chemistry is almost as rusty as my (X) Fiat !
>
>what do these make ? (HCl gas ? Hmm that would be bad,
>but why wouldn't it stay in solution )
>Also, how does the by-product kill you ?
>--
>Usually Reply-to: akerson%srg@uunet.uucp
>Internet: akerson@srg.af.mil@uunet.uucp
>Uunet: uunet!srg!akerson
>Milnet: akerson@srg.srg.af.mil     maybe ...


I assume you refer to the mixing of chlorine (bleach) and ammonia.
This does not produce HCl nor NH4Cl, but a deadly gas known as
nitrogen chloride, NCl3. It is as toxic as chlorine gas or any similar
war gases. _IT_WILL_KILL_YOU_.

Don't do it, even for fun, outside of a safety chemical hood.

Pierre


Pierre Jelenc                        pcj1@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu 
                                    Columbia University, New York
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: aki <aki@atlas.worldbank.org>
Subject: thanks everyone...
X-Xxmessage-Id: <A6C9533154122631@akidamme-233324.worldbank.org>
X-Xxdate: Tue, 1 Sep 92 22:04:49 GMT
Organization: World Bank
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d8
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 21:10:58 GMT



I want to thank everyone whotastefully e-mailed their
response about my question about the carboy (my face is still red).
The e-mail address is wrong tho..it's to the vax which is
really messing up the address headers so I can't respond
to each person..

My (good) address is:

akidamme-233324..worldbank.org

thank-you-very-much...

now I think I'll get a carboy! :-)  :-) !!!!

-aki
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: carruth@mksol.dseg.ti.com (matthew carruth)
Subject: Exploding bottles:should I run for cover?
Organization: internet
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 14:07:14 GMT

Another novice brewer has bottled a batch of ale with a sg of
1.028.  I have been told that the bottles may explode.  Is
this really dangerous?  Does anybody have any experience
in this matter?  If the bottles cause fatal inury at 20
paces, then I'll pour out the beer and start over.  If
explode means that they will fall apart and make a mess,
then I'll take my chances.  What do I do?
Keywords: 


-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
My views are my own and do not reflect those of my employeers....
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: hasn@midway.uchicago.edu (Sheheryar Hasnain)
Subject: Bucket carboy less risky?
Organization: University of Chicago
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 19:18:26 GMT

After having read all the disaster stories, I wonder if it would be a better
idea to use the plastic bucket carboy for the primary fermentation?  I
am lead to believe this because of two reasons:  First, no hop pellets can
clog the airlock since the bucket has enough room to confide the activity.
And second, all the disasters involved glass carboys (elementary!).  What 
do you think? 
BTW, this group is definitely the best of the lot.  Thanks for all of you out
there who have helped me with my questions on brewing.  In about two weeks
I'm off to Vermont and will pick up some supplies over there.  So I assume 
I'll start the brewing process by the end of the month
(is that a good time, in Chicago that is?).  One thing that I
will say is that, I recommend that people that have not brewed as yet and
are interested should read the net since it clears up a lot of things that 
may cause disappointments and disasters.  Plus its just a lot of fun. 
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: bickham@lynx.msc.cornell.edu.UUCP (Scott Bickham,C17 Clark Hall,56079,2737038)
Subject: Re: Bottle size and foam
Originator: bickham@msc2.msc.cornell.edu
Organization: Cornell-Materials-Science-Center
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 16:00:09 GMT

From article <13631.2aa5f68c@ohstpy.mps.ohio-state.edu>, by cpalmer@ohstpy.mps.ohio-state.edu:
> The larger the bottle the beer is in, the longer it will take to 
> carbonate.  You probably tasted the two different bottles at the 
> same time, so the aging was not consistent.
> 
I have to disagree.  If there is an equal amout of head space, the larger
bottle will carbonate faster because there are more fermentables to
produce alcohol and CO2.  My 16 oz. bottles are always carbonated sooner
than my 12 oz. bottles.

Scott
From: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us (Joseph Nathan Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Adding priming sugar
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 92 14:11:50 EDT
Organization: 5 Sigma Software
Reply-To: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us
X-Mailer: uAccess - Macintosh Release: 1.5v5


In article <1992Aug28.084613.22823@jyu.fi> (rec.crafts.brewing), mol@jyu.fi (Mika O. Latokartano) writes:
)   First, I gather the best way to add priming sugar is to add it to 
)   the fermenter or separate priming cask before bottling, not to the bottles.
)   My batch is 25 litres (6.6 gallons US, 5.5 gallons UK) of Munton's Scottish 
)   Export.

I have heard this often, and the dextrose-sugar-syrup-added-to-secondary
method is what I currently use.

But in the good old days, I primed beer with granulated sugar (either
sucrose or dextrose, depending on my supplies).

I bottled umpty odd cases of fine grain beers this way, and never
had an infection problem.  Occasionally I would have a double-primed
bottle (actually, I think my brewing friend was responsible for all of
these), and occasionally an unprimed bottle.  Once every other batch
or so.

If your sanitation is adequate, and you don't let ants or roaches
run through your sugar, etc., I don't think you will ever have a problem
priming bottles with granulated sugar.

Bear in mind that it is probably not as convenient as priming with 
syrup, though, especially if you are using a carboy as a secondary.

The standard dosage is 3/4 cup of DEXTROSE (= glucose) per 5 gallon
batch.  If you plan to drink the beer very cold, you may increase
this to 1 cup per 5 gallon batch.  For "real ale," or stout, porter,
etc., that is meant to be a little on the "flat" side, use 10-20%
less sugar.  For barleywine or other beers that have very high terminal
gravities (1.030+), use 1/2 cup of DEXTROSE or less, since these beers
are meant to be lightly carbonated, and also tend to develop conditioning
from higher sugars over their long storage times.

For SUCROSE, the correct dosage is a little more than 1/2 that for
dextrose.  I used to prime each 12oz bottle with a scant half teaspoon
of sucrose, or a heaping half teaspoon of dextrose.  If a heaping
half teaspoon is about 2/3 tsp, and a scant teaspoon is .35-.4 tsp,
this works out just right.

I've never primed beer with fructose.  The rate should be the same
as for glucose, but it is supposedly fermented somewhat more slowly
than glucose.

uunet!joebloe!joseph   (609) 273-8200 day   joseph%joebloe@uunet.uu.net
v   v  sssss | Certified Guru: all-grain brewing,| 2102 Ryan's Run East
 v v  s   s  | C, synthesizer comp & arranging,  | Rt 38 & 41
  v    sss   | photography. Also not a bad cook. | Maple Shade NJ 08052
-----My employer isn't paying for this, and my opinions are my own-----
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: badorion@watyew.uwaterloo.ca (Brian A. Dorion)
Subject: Re: REQUEST:Cider Recipes
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 16:57:11 GMT

In article <1711@grivel.une.edu.au> scampbe1@metz.une.edu.au (Stephen Campbell) writes:
>I'm after recipes for Apple Cider using Apple Juice and/or Apple Juice
>concentrate.
>
Me too, please.  I've got a cyser I've really got to bottle soon and
twenty liters of apple juice for the next batch waiting.


Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: kurt@dna.lth.se (Kurt Swanson)
Subject: Re: Brewing Questions... Any Answers Out there?
Organization: Lund Institute of Technology, Sweden
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 14:09:43 GMT

sstrong@kean.ucs.mun.ca writes:
>1) Is it advisable to brew in a non-food grade plastic container (ie a 
>large garbage bucket, new and sterlized).  If not, what is the 
>specific problem besides possible unwanted 'flavors' introduced (ie 
>Bad chemicals???)

No, it is not advisable.  Bad chemicals.  Alcohol is a solvent.

>2) Is it possible to determine +/- 1-2% the alchol content of a brew?

Yes, by comparing the change in density - before -> after fermentation.

>3) Does anyone use plastic 1L bolttles?  Any good?

Yes, some do, but I don't.  Good people don't.  ;-)
1l soda bottles are usable but I don't reccomend them.
They are clear.  They let bad light in.
They are plastic. Bacteria hide in scratches.

>4) Lastly, I have heard of a clarifying powder you add at brewing 
>time.  Aprox 1/2 tsp disolved and boiled per 5 gal. brew.  What is 
>this stuff, and does it work?

Probably carrageenan or gelatin, since it is boiled.  I think it works.
-- 
Kurt Swanson, Dept. of Computer Science,
Lunds universitet.  Kurt.Swanson@dna.lth.se
From: marshall@sweetpea.jsc.nasa.gov (Jay Marshall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: 7 gallon carboys
Date: 2 Sep 92 16:46:43 GMT
Organization: McDonnell Douglas Space Systems Company

St. Patrick's of Texas Brewers Supply had 7 gallon carboys for $10 recently.
They are used acid containers, I believe.  Total cost when I got mine was
about $13.40 (including tax and shipping).

I don't know if she has any more.

The owner is Lynne O'Conner, and her address is:

	St. Patrick's of Texas Brewers Supply
		12911 Station Drive
		Austin, Texas 78727
		(512) 832 - 9045

her e-mail address is oconnor@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu

Good luck

jay

-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jay Marshall                       
marshall@sweetpea.jsc.nasa.gov    
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
(standard disclaimer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: ulick@chopin.helios.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford)
Subject: Re: What are water crystals ?
Organization: University of Notre Dame, Notre Dame
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 16:58:04 GMT

I suggest that everyone reads something about water and attempt to find out
the mineral composition of their water.  I called the the local water crowd,
who shunted me around eventually to the wastewarter treatment lab.  The man
there sent me a water analysis of all the well fields used in the town, 
highlighting the one which my water was likely to come from.  It is a normal
hard water, typical of ground waters.  It doesn't smell of chlorine.  The 
composition is similar to Dublin water, not much harder than 
Munich water, but obviously softer than Burton water, and also softer than
Dortmund water.  So I use it for stout,ales etc. as is, adjusting pH for
mashing with dilute phosphoric acid.  When I try to do Pils when the weather
cools, I will mix distilled water 15 parts to one with my water and add some
sodium bicarbonate to mimic Plzen water, but obviously I could make nice
Muechener Helles without worrying about the water.

The main thing is, if your water is drinkable, i.e. isn't too chlorinated
and high in iron, it's fine for brewing.  You might try softening hard water
for brewing by boiling to reomve calcium carbonate as scum.  For authentic
Bass Ale harden with gypsum, but otherwise leave alone, and if you have a
water softener, take your brewing water from before the softener.  Softened
water is high in sodium, and you will not be able to remove carbonates by
boiling.


+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 
+ 'There was a  master come unto the earth, + Ulick Stafford, PP-ASEL       +
+    born in the holy land of Indiana,      + Dept of Chemical Engineering, +
+ in the mystical hills east of Fort Wayne'.+ Notre Dame, IN 46556          +
+      B'fhearr liom bheith ag eitilt.      +    ulick@bach.helios.nd.edu   +
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++