HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jackr@thorodin.dazixco.ingr.com (Jack Reed)
Subject: Re: The best water-cooled VW?
Reply-To: jackr@thorodin.dazixco.ingr.com
Organization: Dazix
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 21:11:55 GMT

In article <1992Sep3.193520.21525@newsgate.sps.mot.com>, mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw) writes:
> The '83-'84 GTi's are real nice, but may be an insurance problem for younger drivers.  My
> real preference is the `79 model year with 11600cc fuel-injection.  These cars run on
                                             ^^^^^


Wow! What did you have do, drop two 5.8 liter Chevy truck engines in there?

I bet one of 'em goes in the hatch, right?

Bet getting them turned sideways was a bitch...

> regular gas and parts are easy to obtain and reasonable.  But, I suspect you are in the
> Midwest area where finding a good '79 anything is difficult.  Out here in the Southwest car
> bodies last forever, so only interiors and mechanicals are of concern.
> 
 
...sorry, just couldn't help myself 8).
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Re: The best water-cooled VW?
Keywords: 
 
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 20:17:51 GMT

|> I believe the '84 Rabbit GTI came with the K-Jetronic fuel injection system. 
|> The KE-Jetronic fuel injection system was used in 1985 and later GTI's. 
|> The confusion may arise by the fact that the K-Jetronic injection system was 
|> used both with EGR and lambda sensor pollution control system.

I stand corrected on the system designation, but I still believe that this system
(K-Jetronic with Lamdba sensor) is the best that VW has offered for simplicity, good
performance, and low emissions.  It's also cheaper to repair if it goes bang.

Which brings me to an question for anyone. 

Has anyone ever had to replace any of the K-Jetronic components - fuel metering assembly,
injectors, warmup control, electric fuel pump, etc?

With (4) vehicles I have experience with (which covers a cumulative history of about
400K miles) such failures have not been seen.  Fuel and air filters appear to be the
only items that need to be changed.


regards,
Mark               	(mark@wdc.sps.mot.com)                    Tempe, AZ, USA
From: colemant@yvax.byu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Steering wheel sticks... help!
Date: 3 Sep 92 11:54:43 -0700
Organization: Brigham Young University

I just had the steering center bushing replaced due to play.  The front end was
also aligned.  The car is a '71 bus... the problem is:

The steering wheel sticks, it didn't stick before this work was done.  I have
only driven it for 10 min or so and it was sitting in the sun for several hours
before (the steering wheel was quite warm).  When I lift or pull up on the
steering wheel it doesn't catch as much...  There is no grinding, it is as if
the rubber/plastic parts the encase the steering column and wheel are rubbing.

The mechanic that did the work is baffled by the problem, he says it may be
becuase of the tightening of the gears in the steering box.

Thank you for the advice on what is happening and what I can do about it.

Only the emissions test and this thing is on the road!! finally.

--Tom Coleman    '71 bug and bus.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: kpjone01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu
Subject: 84 GTi Transmission in 86 Body.
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 13:54:20 GMT
Organization: University of Louisville

Anone know if a transmission from an 84 GTi will work with an 86 GTi engine?
 
Also, linkage, etc...
 
Kevin

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: bj251@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Peter E. Dinin)
Subject: Re: reliable cars
Reply-To: bj251@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Peter E. Dinin)
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 92 22:31:51 GMT


And there will be another VW diesel available soon in north america.  The
new Vanagon (or whatever they are calling it) was shown at the Cleveland
Auto Show this year with a diesel engine.  However, they said that there were
no plan to make that engine available in the US, but it would be available
in Canada.  So, if you want one .....

-- 
Peter E. Dinin  bj251@cleveland.Freeet.Edu
From: doerre_g@mscf.med.upenn.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: A/C leak 83 Scirocco HELP!!!
Date: 25 Aug 92 20:25:32 GMT
Organization: Univ of Penn - Med School Computer Facility

HELP!!!

on my '83 Scirocco, the A/C condensation drain has always been a
problem--Oftentimes, the little tube would detach and soak the passenger's feet
in condensation water, other times the bottom of the tube would become clogged
with leaves and debris from the road; alas, it turns out those were the good 
old days.  Now, after recently having the A/C recharged, it runs beautifully,
but in a short matter of time soaks the floor!  I removed the center console
and cleared the tube through to the underside of the car, so I know that's not
it...Then I poked my trusty clotheshanger up towards whatever is inside that
big black box beneath the dash held together by clamps-from-hell, and felt no
resistance for about a foot of wire.

Has anyone else encountered this problem?  Does anyone know what that big black
box which starts having condensation drops form on the outside after a while
is?  Dare I take it apart?  The clips-from-hell seem to be a clue from VW that
this is not owner maintenance territory.

Any advice appreciated, by email even more so...

--geoff doerre
doerre_g@a1.mscf.upenn.edu@in
From: ari@viipuri.nersc.gov (Ari Ollikainen)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Ventilation/Heating Controls (Vanagon)
Summary: *==Where Applicable
Keywords: RTFM oops *
Date: 28 Aug 92 03:20:39 GMT
Organization: National Energy Research Supercomputer Center, Livermore CA

In my previous posting, my news poster clipped the last line which explained
that * meant "Where Applicable".

In one of the "Information on EuroVan" articles someone wrote about being
told by a salesdroid ( obviously not Gayla Ann ..:)) that the EuroVan will 
come in a SYNCRO version! 

HAH! Not Real Soon Now, fer sure... Wouldn't a VR6 powered SYNCRO EuroVan
be an awesome machine, though? At the current exchange rate, it would be a 
bitch to fix ($$$) if something broke, however. 

Hmmm, I wonder if Ford makes Diesel ClubWagons in a 4WD model?

I probably would have been a perfectly normal American style gearhead if I
hadn't found a wrecked Porsche 1600S when I was looking to get more power out
of my '62 Beetle back in 1963. Can you say INSTANT POWER? 
I haven't been normal since. Two Porsches, four Volvos, a couple of Beetles,
a bunch of VW buses and Vanagons, and a Scirocco later, I'm still a VW fan
although *not* a fanatic anymore. I do dream of the Oettinger wasserboxer
6 cylinder powered Vanagon...

Ari Ollikainen
ari@es.net


Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: cdg@sei.cmu.edu (Craig Gary)
Subject: Bug-Out?
Organization: Software Engineering Institute
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 20:43:05 GMT


Is Bug-Out going to be held in Manassas, VA on Labor Day weekend?

Are there any other VW shows in the PA/MD/VA/OH/WV/NY areas in the 
upcoming months?

Thanks,
Craig
From: bjgaed@bb1t.monsanto.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Lichthupe (was Re: 12 volt conversion)
Date: 2 Sep 92 17:50:55 CST
Organization: Monsanto Company, St. Louis, MO

In article <1992Sep2.060040.2151@u.washington.edu>, dali@milton.u.washington.edu (David A. Lee) writes:
>>
>>I didn't have a headlight *relay*, and the headlight flasher 
>>(lichthupe) was removed from the car many years ago when it was 
>>brought into the country from Germany, as it is probably illegal here. 
>>
> 
> Actually my old 1973 Mercury Capri 2600 (made in Koln, Germany) had this
> feature.  You could flash the headlights while driving by just 
> pulling back on the turn signal lever.  Handy in daylight for alerting
> someone you are passing them.  :-)
> 
> (Note I mean flash the headlights when they aren't on, not from the 
> low beam to high beam position)
> 
> David Lee
> 1970 Squareback

When I bought the 64 Ghia three years ago I noticed the switch on the 
turn signal lever.  Since I had the (perfectly preserved!) owners 
manual I looked therein and found out that this was the "Lichthupe."

I had never heard that term before, so I took the book to my boss, who 
is from Austria, and he told me that this means literally 
"light-horn".  It is used on the Autobahn to let the driver ahead of 
you know that you want to pass and should move over into the slow 
lane.  He told me that actually sounding your horn in that situation 
would be illegal since the horn is reserved for emergencies.

Any suggestions on restoring this?  Would the lights both flash on and 
off, or would they alternate left-right-left-right?  Could a flasher 
relay be modified for this purpose?  I will probably add a 4-way 
flasher of some sort to the car now that it's a 12 volt.  Anyone ever 
done that?



-- 
--Electric Monk            (Bruce Gaede); 
                            e-mail: bjgaed@ccmail.monsanto.com

"...and then time started seriously to pass."
--Douglas Adams, _Dirk Gently's Holistic Detective Agency_
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: hlh5721@zeus.tamu.edu (JIMI HENDRIX)
Subject: Re: is ABS std. on 91GTI16V?
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: Texas A&M University, Academic Computing Services
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 03:24:00 GMT

In article <1992Aug31.165601.1@mscf.med.upenn.edu>, doerre_g@mscf.med.upenn.edu writes...
>hey, this will sound weird--
> 
>i recently got my '91 GTI 16V back, and i've been trying to lock it up--i mean
>the brakes...
> 
>now i don't remember seeing ABS as std. eq. on the window sticker, but for the
>life of me i swear i can't lock up the brakes even on a slick road...
> 
>my question is: are VW brakes really that good, or did i actually get a bonus
>on my '91 GTI?  does anybody who has one know what the spec's are?  my manual
>says nothing, of course...






Listen .....If you hear a loud pulsing sound when you brake, then you have ABS.

It would be a shame for a Driving enthusiasts car of the GTI's calibur to have
ABS....a tool for those who do not know how to drive... :)


LEE HUDDLESTON,                 
Texas A&M University,
College St. TX

"This views expressed are mine and are not necessarily those of
  Texas A&M University, its faculty, staff nor students"
From: sjk@ut-emx.uucp (Phil Alvin)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Air cooled engine is HOT
Keywords: New engine hot
Date: 2 Sep 92 13:53:55 GMT
Organization: Fred's Lounge


Greetings VW fans,

I just put a new engine (and tranny) in my '66 Ghia and all seems
well, but the engine is running  hot.  After a 5-mile or so trip,
the dipstick, for example, is hot to the touch - I mean I wouldn't
want to hold onto it for any length of time.  The new engine was
rebuilt by a good mechanic out to the cylinders.  I re-used my old
heads (after taking them to the machine shop.)  Here are my ideas as
to what could be wrong:

1) Oil cooler messed up - I cleaned it and put the proper seating
gaskets on when I installed it - no sign of an oil leak.  Any other
way to test it w/ the engine in the car.  Would taking an oil
pressure reading help diagnose a bad cooler?  (The cooler came off
my old engine.)

2) I am running too lean. How do I check this? A new cam maybe changing the
mixture a little and I may need to enlarge the Carb main jet.  

3) My timing is off and/or my distributor is not returing the
advance after high rpms.  I set the timing to 7.5 deg BTDC intially with a
static timing light as I always do and it seemed fine. I got a
stroboscopic light and saw the advance working and returning okay -
though my carb return spring does not quite return the acc. lever
back to idle after high revs.  The distributor is an 009.  Is 7.5 BTDC
still the right value with this new block?

4) My valves are too tight.  I set them (0.006) before I put the
engine in and the following morning after testing the engine the
previous day - most of the valves were tight.  Since then, I have
put about 50 miles on the engine.

5) A vacuum leak somewhere.  No obvious sign, but there may be a subtle one
I am trying to track down.  It's hard to tell for sure by listening.

All my sheet metal and heater hoses are on and connected.  I put new rubber
molding around the engine compartment.

Thanks for any and all help,
Scot
sjk@emx.cc.utexas.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: robg@citr.uq.oz.au (Rob Geraghty)
Subject: Passat using oil
Summary: why is it burning oil?
Keywords: Passat
Organization: Prentice Centre, University of Queensland
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1992 08:07:54 GMT

G'day,
	I'm hoping there is someone out there who can tell me whether
I'm being lied to by a mechanic.  I had the engine in my 1975 Passat
rebuilt a bit over a year ago.  It is now blowing smoke from the
exhaust.  Now they are telling me I must have overheated it and the
rings must be faulty.  Excuse me?  We had a Passat from new 1975-
1984 and it got up over redline lots of times - never killed the
rings, though!

I feel a bit disgusted after having paid $1600aud for the rebuild
and now this happens!

Any suggestions, anyone?

Rob

--
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Rob Geraghty                         | Time, flowing like a river
robg@durian.citr.oz.au               | Time, beckoning me
CITR                                 | APP
From: mucit@cs.rochester.edu (Bulent Murtezaoglu)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: cracked manifold!!
Date: 27 Aug 92 00:18:39 GMT
Organization: Computer Science Department University of Rochester


Would it be a good idea to drive around with a cracked exhaust manifold
for a while?  (= 10k mi or so).  I can hear the leak at high RPM's but
it is not obvious at idle or low rpm's.  The manifold is on an '81 Rabbit
with a Scirocco engine.  Also I'm trying to figure out what would crack it,
any ideas?

Thanks.

-Mucit
From: GARN@SLACVM.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU (GARY NIEMI)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Muffler mounting problem
Date: 4 Sep 92 18:35:16 GMT
Article-I.D.: SLACVM.92248.103516GARN
Organization: Stanford Linear Accelerator Center

I would like advice on the following problem:

When replacing the muffler on a '65 Karmann Ghia with a '70 engine, I
noticed that the right side top cylinder head stud, where the exhaust port
connects to the muffler, had been replaced with a bolt.  I put on the new
muffler with the nut on the bottom stud, which was okay, and replaced the
bolt in the top very cafefully, but as I tightened the bolt, it seemed to
be slightly stripped.

However; after about 1000 miles, the top bolt fell out and the bottom nut
worked itself loose also.  So now I have the bottom nut holding the muffler
to the head.  No exhaust appears to be leaking out of the connection.  The
top hole is now completely stripped, so I have nothing in it. So should I
just continue driving and not worry about it, or should I get a new head,
or is there a way to put in a new stud.  Any advice would be greatly
appreciated.

-Gary Niemi
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: avp@garfield.cs.mun.ca (Anthony Paul)
Subject: Re: sticking door handles
Organization: CS Dept., Memorial University of Newfoundland
Distribution: rec
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 23:25:24 GMT

pk16@frc.ri.cmu.edu (Paul Keller) writes:
>> 
>> Lately, the outside door handles on my '86 GTI have started to stick.
>> By this I mean that when I squeeze the trigger, I have to squeeze
>> *really hard* to get the door latch to release.


>That happened to my driver's door handle a while back.  There is a
>plastic piece that slides back and forth when you squeeze the handle,
>and that piece was cracked.  So, instead of moving like it should, it
>would just flex.  I had to replace the handle.


>I lubricated the other ones, and they worked better.  Its possible
>that not lubricating often enough means you have to squeeze harder,
>increasing the chances of breaking that plastic piece.

>Good luck
>--
>Paul Keller                     paul.keller@frc.ri.cmu.edu
>Field Robotics Center           Phone: (412) 268-6563
>The Robotics Institute          Fax: (412) 682-1793
>Carnegie Mellon University
>Pittsburgh, PA 15213

I have a '90 GTI, and have had similar problems.  I have had my car
in under warranty twice to have hard to open doors fixed.  Since
my warranty is almost up, when I last had my car in, I asked about
the handles.

"Are these things gonna break avery year?"  

The guy told me that they should be removed and packed with grease
whenever they start to get hard to open.  He said to NEVER use
WD-40, and this makes some sense to me, cause it would cut right
through the grease and probably and leave you with no lubricant
after a short period of time.  

I live in a pretty hard climate here (maybe water and snow 
contribute to the grease loss), but from now on I'll repack them 
every year, i think.  

He told me you can pop off the inlaid part of the handle to reveal
a screw, and the other screw is on the end of the door.  Supposedly
simple to do.

If I can offer any other help, please ask.

It woulda been nice if they told me this was necessary maintenance
rather than me having the damn things bust every year...


Anthony V. PauL             AV     VPPPP 
137 Rennies Mill Rd.       A V    V   P 
St. John's, Nf            A  V   V   P 
CanadA                   AAAAV  VPPPP
A1B 2P2                 A    V V 
                       A     VV   

avp@garfield.UUCP      || It wasn't me.           || Electrical  '9 
avp@garfield.cs.mun.ca || Boston Celtics in 92-93 || Engineering  4     
||   The best defense is a good offense. --- How do you Drive?   ||
From: ser00@diag.amdahl.com (Steve Rapinchuk)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Info needed on VW EuroVan
Keywords: Van...slow
Date: 27 Aug 92 19:32:54 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale, CA

In article <1992Aug27.164132.28296@csi.jpl.nasa.gov>, eldred@rrunner.jpl.nasa.gov (Dan Eldred) writes:
|> In article <1992Aug27.133357.7650@m.cs.uiuc.edu> ward@m.cs.uiuc.edu (Christ Ward) writes:
|> >else is new.  Oh, and I have figured out my airflow controls and I only 
|> >had to read the manual six times (and re-view for each new seasion) 
|> >complicated yes...but still the best I've ever had.  Oh well, VW's you
|> >either LOVE them or HATE! them...          
|> >
|> 
|> Maybe you could post the instructions for the airflow controls.  I once
|> had them figured out but I lost my cheat sheet    :)
|> 
|> 	- Dan

Ditto. I STILL haven't figured them out yet!


Steve
From: newlin@hpfcdc.fc.hp.com (Doug Newlin)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 22:30:26 GMT
Subject: Re: Advice on Westphalia campers needed.
Organization: HP Fort Collins, Co.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw

Make that I-70 WEST of Denver.
From: gjp@sei.cmu.edu (George Pandelios)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Junky Japanese cars? (Re: Production Delay)
Date: 31 Aug 92 15:58:09 GMT
Article-I.D.: sei.1992Aug31.155809.18223
Organization: The Software Engineering Institute


In article <Aug28.174001.23461@engr.washington.edu>, eliot@lanmola.engr.washington.edu (eliot) writes:

|> Anyway, I have a 1992 VW brochure in front of me and lo and behold,
|> there's no mention of power windows/locks for the GTI, while it is
|> listed for the Jetta.  It sorta makes sense in the German mentality,
|> since the GTI has only two doors, hence there's only one other lock
|> and handle to operate opposed to 3 for the Jetta.  If I were buying
|> a GTI, I wouldn't want it anyway but I agree that the price is a 
|> little steep for a relatively sparsely equipped car.
|> 
|> 
|> eliot

Actually, in my 84 Wolfsburg Scirocco, the central locking system locked both
doors, the hatch, and the gas tank door.  You'd (I would) probably want the 
same setup for the GTI, Golf, and all Jettas.

George
From: bjgaed@bb1t.monsanto.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Intake manifold
Date: 3 Sep 92 06:28:45 CST
Organization: Monsanto Company, St. Louis, MO

In article <1992Sep3.012732.22793@pony.Ingres.COM>, garrett@Ingres.COM (QUOTE OF THE YEAR) writes:
> 	I have a mechanical question about a 71' VW bug.
> There is a part, the best discription I can give is calling it a 
> rubber grommet, that is rotting out. 
> 	I know that this discription will be the same for air-cooled
> engines for at least two years before as well. 
> 	At the base of the carburator, there is a pipe that splits into a 
> T and runs across the front (as you are looking at it) of the engine.
> Each pipe then splits into two at the side of the engine, but before that
> there is a connection that needs a rubber seal. This seal is rotted
> and is allowing a vacuum leak. I've wrapped it with tape for the moment
> and even went to a junk yard to get a new grommet, but I can't see how
> I can replace it without removing the whole intake assembly, carburator
> and all.
> 	Does anyone know how to replace it without making this 
> a major project? Or is there a sutible substitute? 
> 	Can anyone understand this description?
> 
> -Garrett

I had the same thing happen on my old 71 bus.  The intake manifold 
boots are a consumable.  They used to be available from JC Whitney, 
but any good VW shop or parts store should have them.  As I remember, 
there was a procedure in my Bentley Type II manual for replacing them 
with the engine in the car, but with the bus I pulled the engine out 
and it made the job a lot easier.  That was many years ago, and I 
don't remember what all I had to pull off the engine to get at the 
manifold.  It would be a real bear to get to in a bug.

Ask at the parts place if there is a split boot that you can wrap 
around the manifold without taking everything apart.  If such a thing 
exists it would be a great help.

--Electric Monk            (Bruce Gaede); 
                            e-mail: bjgaed@ccmail.monsanto.com

"...and then time started seriously to pass."
--Douglas Adams, _Dirk Gently's Holistic Detective Agency_
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: dali@milton.u.washington.edu (David A. Lee)
Subject: Re: 12 Volt Conversion DONE!
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 05:54:05 GMT

Actually the voltage regulator in a bug is atop the coil in the engine.

In the Type III it is under the seat.  And a pain to get at.  I had to 
replace mine recently.

David Lee
1970 Squareback (167,000 miles and counting)

From: ryszard@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (Ryszard Chojnacki)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 17:06:22 GMT
Subject: Re: Production Delay (Was: Re: reliable cars
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw

In rec.autos.vw, greis@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Gayla Ann Greis) writes:


  Ummm, in case any of you haven't heard, the release of the 1993 A3 body cars
  has been officially delayed until January now. In Mexico, the labor leaders
  are elected officials, and go to the table without the workers voting. Well,
  they signed a contract with VW, and then the labor decided they didn't like
  what the labor leaders worked out and so started rioting. VW locked the
  workers out, and shut down the plant, while the army was called in to stop
  the vandals, rioting, and looting. As it stands now, production has been
  stopped, and the introduction delayed until 1993. (Longer if this keeps
  up.)

I guess this may be true in the US. However, having just returned from
Cancun, Mexico, I have to report seeing a good number of A3's on the
road. I assume that these were built in Mexico(?). Still prefer my '91