From: schalene@sequent.com (Schalene Dagutis)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: What Questions to Ask Breeders -- Summary
Date: 12 Aug 92 15:26:02 GMT
Article-I.D.: sequent.1992Aug12.152602.26626
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems Inc.

In article <1992Aug11.170343.28301@hemlock.cray.com> dadams@cray.com writes:
> schalene@sequent.com (Schalene Dagutis) writes:
>
>|13.  Find out if the pups are/will be raised in a kennel situation or
>|     "in home."  If it's a kennel, you need to ask for a tour when
>|     you make your visit.
>
>What do you want to keep an eye out for when you see the kennel?

Cleanliness, are the dogs croweded, can they get out of the weather, do
they have access to clean water.  Could the breeder be running a puppy
mill?

>
>|18.  How many puppies were in the litter?  (Check this against what
>|     you know to be the normal range.)
>
>If there were many, what does it say about your potential pup?
>
Many breeds normally do have a lot of pups....that wouldn't
necessarily mean anything.  If the number is much greater than normal, 
the pups may not be as healthy as they could be or a large as the breed
standard requires.  If only one pup survived, this pup learns nothing
about early socialization with littermates.  It is critical that the
pup get around other dogs and learn about pack structure.  We had a
prime example of this in our puppy kindergarten.

>|19.  Were there any difficulties during delivery?
>
>How should you interpret an answer to this question.  (What if there were?
>Assuming you are not breeding--what does it say about the pup?  "You was
>a hard one commin out!  And you'ze been hard commin ever since!")
>
Difficult deliveries sometime mean unhealthy pups.  Many can suffer
problems that don't show up until they are a few months old.  It could
mean nothing to you, or it could mean a lot.  If you have a choice
between several breeders, you might choose to buy from someone else.
The question was intended so that the prospective owner would know to
really observe the pups carefully, not automatically cross off the
breeder.

>|FOLLOWING:  (Degree of following attraction)
>|
>|Stand up and walk away from the pup in a normal manner.  Make sure the
>|pup sees you walk away.
>|
>|Scoring:
>|
>|Followed readily, tail up, got underfoot, bit at feet...............1
>|Followed readily, tail up, got underfoot............................2
>|Followed readily, tail up...........................................3
>|Followed readily, tail down.........................................4
>|Followed hesitantly, tail down......................................5
>|Didn't follow or went away..........................................6
>
>What does "got underfoot" mean? 
>
Underfoot means the pup gets "tangled" up in your feet, or crosses
over in front of you so that you must change your stride not to step
on it or anything else that causes you to change your normal walking
pattern.
>
>
>|
>|ELEVATION DOMINANCE:  (Degree of accepting dominance while in position
>|of no control)
>|
>|Bend over and cradle the pup under its belly, fingers interlaced,
>|palms up and elevate it just off the ground.  Hold it there for 30
>|seconds.
>|
>|Struggled fiercely, bit, growled....................................1
>|Struggled fiercely..................................................2
>|No struggle, relaxed................................................3
>|Struggled, settled, licked..........................................4
>|No struggle, licked at hands........................................5
>|No struggle, froze..................................................6
>
>Are these responses in the right order?  I would have expected 3 and 
>4 to switch?
>
They are in the right order.  This is part of a standard puppy
appitude test.  Can't tell why they're ranked the way the are.  Guess
you'll have to ask the Volhards.

>|RETRIEVAL:  (Degree of willingness to work with a human)
>|
>|Crouch beside pup and attract his attention with crumpled up paper
>|ball.  When the pup shows interest and is watching, toss the object 4
>|to 6 feet in front of pup.
>|
>|Scoring:
>|
>|Chases object, picks up object and runs away........................1
>|Chases object, stands over object, does not return..................2
>|Chases object and returns with object...............................3
>|Chases object and returns without object............................4
>|Starts to chase object, loses interest..............................5
>|Does not chase object...............................................6
>
>I think the pup should get extra credit on 3 if it delivers the object
>as if he wants you to throw it again.  I knew this poodle which had no
>training but would return and expect you to fight for the object.  He 
>would cling onto it, pull, and growl.  
>
>Somepeople have suggested using this one for "birdyness" especially 
>using a frozen chicken wing instead of a paper wad.
>
This was just the beginning portion of the test and is used to test
for general apptitude.  There were many other parts of the test that I
did not include; they got pretty technical.  All I was trying to
illustrate was a basic way for a layman not a behaviorist to test for 
dominance vs. submissiveness, independence vs. dependence, and ability 
towards obedience training.  There are many other tests that check 
specifics like flushing, retrieving, birdiness, etc.

schalene
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs