From: bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Help on Router bit selection
Date: 5 Sep 92 00:38:26 GMT
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Distribution: na
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated

Yasin writes
> I am a novice, interested in purchasing a decent set of
> router bits. I know it depends on the work I am going to
> do and also on the budget. But how about suggesting the
> general purpose bits, I have seen lot of catalogs and
> cannot make my mind that which bit is more useful then the
> others. Experience is the best teacher, so would appreciate
> if you can share the knowledge of your experience.


Well, I'll take a stab at this, assuming you'll be making furniture from solid 
woods (if you're making kitchen cabinets, I'll let someone else post):

1) Get a set of HSS straight spiral bits. These aren't expensive 
   (typically less than $10) and will last longer than you think. Garrett 
   Wade and Woodcraft (among others) sell the Onsrud brand, which is very 
   good quality. Sizes to have are: 1/8", 3/16", 1/4", 5/16", 3/8", and 
   1/2". If you have a 1/2" shank router (recommended) get 1/2" shanks where 
   possible.

   These are the bits you'll use the most. If you find a size that
   you're using enough to need resharpening, then you might want to
   consider getting it in carbide, although it costs about 4 times as
   much and doesn't produce as smooth a finish. These are the only
   bits I recommend in HSS - all the others should be carbide.

   You'll find yourself using this bits for dadoes, mortises, to cut
   tenons, rabbets, half-laps, etc.

2) Get a set of round over bits. Here again you want a wide assortment of
   sizes. I really like the Bosch brand bits. By replacing the bearing
   you can convert these bits for beading bits. Some people really like
   the hand tool round overs, but I've found they don't work well on
   curves or end grain or wood with splintery tendencies. You also can't
   really make a large radius round over as easily as you can with the
   router.

3) Get a 45 degree chamfering bit. Although you can do chamfering
   with other tools, if you have to chamfer on end grain or on a
   curved edge, the router is, IMHO, the best way to go. If you really
   like chamfering, you may want to get bits with different degrees
   (15, 25,and 30 are somewhat common).

4) Get a large diameter flush trimming bit. This is a straight bit
   with a bearing at the end. This is useful for flushing up mating
   parts or routing against a template, to produce identical parts for 
   instance. There are also straight bits with the bearing above the cutting 
   edges, I recommend getting one of these as well. If you have the money, 
   these are also available as spiral bits with bearings, which I recommend.

5) Get a dovetail bit or two for sliding dovetails. If you want to cut
   corner dovetails (through or half blind), then the jig you use will
   determine which degree and size bits to get, so get the jig first.

6) A set of cove (round nose) bits is useful. You probably don't need
   nearly as diverse assortment of sizes as with the straights and
   roundovers, but have a few. A few V nose bits are similarly useful.

7) If you make traditional designs or period furniture, you'll probably
   want to get some edge forming bits like roman ogees, or wavy edge and
   the like. These you should probably buy only on an as-needed basis

8) Specialty bits, like lettering, bowl bits, T slot bits, etc. 
   should probably only be purchased when you have the need for them.

9) Panel raising. If you have a big enough V.S. router and want to use it
   to make raised panels and/or frames, my recommendation is to first
   go to a store and just hold that 3.5" diameter bit in your hand. If 
   you still want to go through with it, buy the best quality bit you
   can. Again, I recommend Bosch, but there are other good brands out
   there. Saving some $ on a big bit could endanger your life, IMHO.
   If you panels have straight edges, check out the vertical panel
   raising bits, which are safer to use.

   For making the rails and stiles, there are a few different ways to
   go, in addition to the usual style differences. There are sets that you 
   reconfigure differently for the rails and stiles. You can buy a bit
   for each. There is even a single bit that you raise to different
   heights for the different cuts. 


It may pay to buy one of the prepackaged bit sets that companies like Freud and 
CMT sell, I don't know. Bits are heavily discounted mail order (30%-40% off 
list), so I just get all the catalogs I can and buy them that way. BTW, as Brad 
Witt of Woodhaven says (and I'm paraphrasing here) "Don't stick a Yugo bit into 
your Rolls-Royce router." Or, it doesn't pay to buy a good router and then 
skimp on the bits. Unfortunately, some netters have reported problems with the 
Byrom brand bits he used to sell (he now sells Amana bits).


Well, this was my first take on this.  Hope it helps.

Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com