HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: kent@stanley.nde.swri.edu (Kent D. Polk)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.marketplace
Subject: Re: Sampson Stratics pedals
Date: 8 Jan 1993 15:31:11 GMT
Organization: Southwest Research Institute, San Antonio, Texas
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: stanley.nde.swri.edu

In article <1iigi0INNkq7@gap.caltech.edu> remyh@cco.caltech.edu (Remy Adam Hathaway) writes:
>ezag637@chpc.utexas.edu (Steve Manifold) writes:
>
>>Greetings,
>
[...]
>>a posting vaguely alluding to problems with Sampson Stratics pedals.
>>This interests me since I have a pair on my bike now.  For the record,
[...]
>>I would be interested in knowing about other netters experiences with
>>them.  If this subject has been beaten to death previously, just E-mail
>>me.
>
>  I've ridden about 300 miles on mine (The red ones (racing, with sealed
>bearings))  I use them when I commute a mile to school, so I am forced to
>walk on them more than I'd like.  For the past month, I've not been able
>to lock my foot under the spring, I believe this is due to the amount of
>damage the cleats have sustained, they won't go over the spring mechanism,

I had what appears to be this problem with my Stratics and also thought the
cleats were too damaged. However, after looking into the situation while
preparing to 'alter' the cleats so they would work, I realized it wasn't a
cleat damage problem, but a lubrication problem. I just put a small drop of
lubricant on the top of the spring-loaded clip and worked it in and out a few
times and the problem disappeared.

I have put a couple thousand miles on my Stratics, including a trip across
southern Finland last summer. About 1/3 of the trip was ridden in the rain
and in general was brutal to the cleats (and to my bike in general).  Despite
this extremely rough treatment, the only trouble I had was while sightseeing
in Helsinki on a Sunday in the rain. There was much road construction in
progress, thus much dirt, etc. which managed to 'lock' my cleats in the pedal
as I was headed out of town. I stopped at an intersection and tried to pull
out, but to my surprise, I couldn't. I flopped and STILL couldn't pull out
while lying on the ground.  I finally grabbed each shoe with both hands and
yanked they out.  Cleaned them out and all was fine after that.

Other than those two problems, the Stratics have worked very nicely. They
give me freedom of movement and are very easy to get in and out of.

Kent Polk: Southwest Research Institute
Internet : kent@swrinde.nde.swri.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.marketplace
From: flip@sage.cc.purdue.edu (Phillip D. Russell)
Subject: Re: In defense of Huffys
Organization: Purdue University Computing Center
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 05:08:18 GMT

In article <C0G13G.2IC@Novell.COM> karl_best@novell.com (Karl Best) writes:
>In article <1993Jan5.183129.25217@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>  
>narchamb@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Nicholas D Archambeault) writes:
>> Granted, I often dream of a fully suspended 'Dale with all the fixins,
>> but until I graduate the Huffy will have to suffice.  Sometimes you
>> have to drive an old Volkswagen until you can afford the Porsche.
>
>I'm not sure that a Huffy maps well to a VW. Perhaps a Yugo?
>

More like a go-cart.


-- 
    __@  __@        Phillip "Flip" Russell  | Purdue University
  _-\<, -\<,_       flip@sage.cc.purdue.edu | West Lafayette, IN
 (_)/---|/-(_)      The important things...
		  My bikes and my Macintosh
Organization: Arizona State University
Date: Tuesday, 12 Jan 1993 20:37:10 MST
From: <ASLXG@ASUACAD.BITNET>
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.marketplace
Subject: 63.5 cm MBK frame for sale

The frame is about 10 yrs old, Columbus SP/SL, 74deg/73deg(?)
Model is Team Champion - what they called a stage racing frame.
Never crashed, paint pretty good, nice lugs, etc.  Includes
Campy NR sp, hs, bb. $100 plus shipping.  Respond by E-mail
or call 602-964-1587.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.marketplace
From: jackson@ponder.csci.unt.edu (Bruce Jackson)
Subject: Re: Do bike stores mark up or mark down?
Organization: University of North Texas, Denton
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 01:45:50 GMT

In article <v9!3xca@rpi.edu> spinaa@rpi.edu (Matt Garretson) writes:

>Do most bicycle stores sell complete name-brand bicycles for more or less than
>the manufacturer's suggested price? I've read some reviews of bicycles that
>seem good, and the prices listed in the articles are in my range. Should I
>expect the bikestore prices to be above or below the reported prices? Will
>there be a lot of variation in price from sore to store?

In my market (Dallas, Tx. area) the competition was always too high for
anybody to be able to get what the bike manufacturers called full markup.
The prices in magazines are often higher or lower than shops sell the bike
at.  This is due to the fact that there is a long lead time for the article.
If you shop near the end of the year you will probably be able to get a
deal since the distributers often have sales on leftover bikes that they
are trying to clear out.  If you can live with a poor selling color or
model than you can get a bargain by waiting for what's left over.  If
you go with the best selling model and color expect to pay full ticket.

Since shops near each other will carry different lines of bikes it is
hard to compare bikes on price alone.  You will probably end up comparing
fairly similar models of different makes.  Things get tricky.  My advice
it to test ride every bike in your price range with an open mind.  Go
with the bike that seems to ride the best.  Make sure the shop is willing
to earn your buisness by enhancing your enjoyment of bicycling.  When you
find a good bike and a good shop go for it.  The advantage of a $20-$50
savings on a bike can be quickly be offset by poor advice and service so
don't buy on price alone.

>Also, how good an idea is it to mailorder complete bicycles? Are the prices
>low enough to offset shipping and handling charges?

I'd avoid purchasing a bike this way.  You don't get to test ride it.
Most good shops will expertly assemble the bike.  The last 3 shops I
worked at did all of the first's years labor and maintenance free.
All shops give at least a 30 day checkup which catches a lot of potential
problems.  My opinion is that you will probably come out ahead by
pruchasing your bike from a good bike shop instead of a mail order house
even if it costs more initially.

>Matt

ride with the wind...

Bruce  -  jackson@cs.unt.edu


Bruce  -  jackson@cs.unt.edu
From: mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Mackintosh)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.marketplace
Subject: New Alsop cro-mo stem available?
Date: 6 Jan 93 15:23:13 GMT
Reply-To: mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Mackintosh)
Distribution: na
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

I recall someone here on the net describing a new version of the Alsop
cro-mo stem which has been lightened by use of a plastic lower link,
maybe some other changes.  I think I've actually even seen one at a
race but two Alsop dealers had no idea what I was talking about.

Does anyone know of a source for this model or if it is available at
all?  I am quite interested in trying this stem but not at the price
of the aluminum model.  I'm looking for a 140mm stem for 1" steerer.

David Mackintosh
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.marketplace
From: scott@gdwest.gd.com (Scott Owen)
Subject: Manitou Trade In Policy
Organization: General Dynamics Corp.
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 15:20:39 GMT

Howdy,

Recently I bent the steerer tube on my Manitou fork. (I ran
into a tree stump,  not an advisable manuever).  While
I had the fork apart I decide to replace the stanchion (inner)
tubes also due to some rust.

My fork was an original Doug Bradbury Manitou built in Colorado,
not an Answer fork.  Answer bought the rights to the Manitou
fork.  When I recieved the new stanchion tubes from Answer,
they were 2 cm to short.  I called the Answer technical 
assistance line and while explaining my problems to Rod
(the tech assist dude) he asked me if I knew about the Manitou
trade in policy.  He explained that Answer will take original
Doug Bradbury Manitou forks and trade them for the new
Answer Manitou II forks for $150.  Since a steerer tube and 
stanchion tubes were going to run me ~$100 I decided to go
for it.  I shipped them my disassembled (and rather beat up)
fork and they shipped me a brand new Manitou 2.  The Manitou 2
is around a 1/2 lb lighter than the original,  has more travel
(with externally adjustable preload of the elastomer bumpers),
and is flexurally stiffer than the original(and the original 
flexed much less than Rock Shox,  Future Shocks, DS2's,  etc.
due mainly to larger diameter stanchion tubes).

I asked Rod why Answer was doing this (ie,  are original Doug B.
Manitou forks collector's items or what?) and he said that
Answer just wanted happy people out there riding there product.
I don't really care why they are doing this,  I'm just stoked
to have new forks.

The Manitou II's are plusher than my old Manitous and the
adjustable preload is a nice feature.  I've ridden Rock Shox
Mag 20's and they really are better at soaking up big hits but
they didn't absorb braking washboard going into turns as well
as Manintous.  I like the performance and weight of Rock Shox
but have known several people who have blown the seals (some
of them more than once).  I use my bike to commute to work every
day,  play ride on weekends,  and for the occasional mtb race.
The reliability and low upkeep of elastomer forks makes them 
the fork of choice for my needs.  Rock Shox does now offer an
elastomer fork called the Quadra that seems to have some nice
features.


Scott Owen

Universal Law of Two Wheeled Vehicles:  You ride,  you wreck.
From: ehouse@Apple.COM (Eric House)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.marketplace
Subject: Re: Wanted: Nuovo Record clamp-on front derailleur
Date: 11 Jan 93 16:52:03 GMT
Organization: Apple Computer Inc, Cupertino, CA

In article <726537319.AA00811@urchin.fidonet.org> twowheel@f88.n106.z1.fidonet.org (twowheel) writes:
>Once again I am asking if anyone has a Nuovo Record front derailleur for sale,
>but this time I am making it clear that I need the clamp-on version. I also
>have a braze-on Nuovo Record front derailleur in brand new condition for sale
>or trade. Thanks.

Howard, or perhaps someone, might be interested to know that Shimano makes
a little thingy that lets you mount a braze-on front derailleur on a frame
without the brazeon.  I've seen them on McMahon's Ti bikes, and confirmed
that Palo Alto Bikes sells them separately for about $8.  The model I saw
at that price didn't look quite as nice as the one on the McMahon, so maybe
there's a Dura-Ace for $29.95.
-- 
****************************************************************************
Eric House			"My employer doesn't share its opinions with
RAAM in '93?		   	 me, so I can share only mine with you"
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.marketplace
Subject: Wanted: Track Hubs
From: <U3C@psuvm.psu.edu>
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 15:58:44 EST
Organization: Penn State University

I did a similar post before x-mas but I thought alot of people may have
missed it in the "ca back from vacation and there are a zillon articles
on the net" suffle....


I am looking for a pair of high quality (dura-ace, superb-pro, campy, or
mavic) 32 hole track hubs.  Age is not a factor as long as they are in
good condition. I am willing to pay a fair price (ie. I'm not looking for
the "deal of a lifetime"....I'm just a college student trying to avoid
paying a arm and a leg for new hubs).

Also if anyone has any nice pedals (non-clipless) or track bend handlebars
for sale I might be interested.

Thank you in advance

Steven Y. Litvin     U3C@PSUVM.PSU.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.marketplace
From: ramz@lanl.gov (Rick Ramsey)
Subject: Shoei TL Comp Helmet
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.marketplace
Organization: Los Alamos National Laboratory
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 21:50:11 GMT

I'd like to buy a Shoei TL Comp helmet as shown on page 103 of the
December 1992 issue of Mountain Bike magazine.  However, Bike's
Peak Accessories is unable to obtain these helmets (p 102,103 are
their ad).  Does anyone have any idea where I can get this helmet?

adTHANKSvance
..................................................................
Rick Ramsey  ramz@lanl.gov  Los Alamos, NM  505/662-2447 evenings.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.marketplace
From: josh@Happy-Man.com (Joshua_Putnam)
Subject: Re: In defense of Huffys
Reply-To: Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com
Organization: Happy Man Corp., Vashon Island, WA 98070-7399
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 20:19:55 GMT

In <C0Jyo7.M2@willamette.edu> mjaneba@willamette.edu (Mark Janeba) writes:

>Hmmm.. so my late-70's-vintage Raleigh Pro makes me a geek?  Raleighs were
>real bikes long before Huffy got involved (the latter a pity for Raleigh); I
>suspect Raleighs were real bikes before Huffy existed. 

Actually, Huffy Bicycle Co. is descended from the Davis Sewing
Machine Company, which was bought by the Huffman family in 1888, 
and began making bicycles in 1892.  From Davis Sewing Machine
Bicycles the name became Dayton, after the Dayton, OH location.

They used to be quite a cutting-edge consumer cycle company,
introducing balloon tires in 1934, streamliners in 1936, "light
weights" in 1941, and the Radio Bicycle in 1955.

>Now, to redeem myself:  In my past experience, most Huffys looked like they
>would spontaneously self-destruct with any significant usage.  They cannot be
>repaired, not really.  

We recently had some parents in the shop with a Huffy that had a
broken kickstand bracket.  This is welded to the frame on Huffys,
not bolted, so since the bike was still under warranty, Huffy
mailed them a new frame and said they should find a bike shop to
move all the components from the old frame to the new one for
under $30, and Huffy would pay for it.  I can't speak for other
shops, but there's no way I'd put up with the aggravation of
removing, installing, and adjusting a whole bike's worth of
low-grade components for $30 retail.  

>Assemble yourself or forget it if you aren't
>able; don't put your kid's life in the hands of the high school "expert
>assemblers" the department stores employ.  

That must be what Huffy had in mind with their labor reimbursement
offer.  If you do buy a bike put together this way, check it over
very carefully before trusting it.  As an entry level kid's bike,
you can do a lot worse than a Huffy.
-- 
 Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com    Happy Man Corp.  206/463-9399 x102
 4410 SW Pt. Robinson Rd., Vashon Island, WA  98070-7399  fax x108
 We publish SOLID VALUE for the intelligent investor.  NextMail OK
Info free; sample $20: Send POSTAL addr: Solid-Value@happy-man.com
From: eisele@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (Jon Eisele)
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 18:48:53 GMT
Subject: Re: Sampson Stratics pedals
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.marketplace


I had a pair of the Sampson Stratics pedals (titanium model).  

Things I liked:

o Very light (170 g per pair versus 490 g for the Shimano
  600).
o 36.5 degree cornering clearance.
o Easy to clip in/out.  They have a no-spin feature which keeps
  the pedal from spinning easily (when the cleat is not attached).
o Allow for 15 degrees of rotation (adjustable).


Things I didn't like:

o Cleats break very easy.  This is reason enough not to buy Sampson.  I
  have over a dozen pairs of broken cleats laying around.

o The supposedly sealed bearings require lubrication or they will start
  squeaking.  This seemed to occur around 2000 miles.

o Cleats are large making it more difficult to walk than w/ Look cleats.
  Especially annoying was stepping in dirt when walking off the road to
  go to the bathroom.  The cleats trap dirt which can ack like a cement
  when trying to clip in/out.

o Something inside the pedals can wear out (the spring?) and start causing
  problems when clipping out.  This problem was so severe for me that I
  ended up cracking the pedal body once while trying to clip out.  That
  was the end of riding w/ Sampsons for me.

I would strongly recommend that anyone considering buying Sampsons avoid
doing so.  If you already have them, good luck.  I have met other
Sampson owners who didn't experience the severity of the problems that I
had with the pedals.

Jon

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.marketplace
From: pakar@jyu.fi (Petri A Karonen)
Subject: Should I byu a Mongoose?
Organization: University of Jyvaskyla, Finland
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 23:30:55 GMT

I've been planning to buy a new bicycle for mainly recreational
off-road use and I just got a reasonable sounding offer of a 
Mongoose IBOC Sport with Deore LX parts. Since this is not a very
well-known brand here in Finland (well not to me, anyway :)) I'd
appreciate any comments of that bike you may have. The offer is
quite tempting because I'd get the Mongoose for a price they usually
sell 200GS-equipped MTB's and that's all I can afford at the moment...

Thanks for your comments in advance!

Pete

Argh! Typo alert in the subject line.....
-- 
"Samuel Morse invented a code of telepathy."  -=Petri Karonen (pakar.jyu.fi)=-
"Louis Pasteur discovered a cure for rabbis."  -============================-
"Charles Darwin was a naturalist who wrote the Organ of the Species."
             -=(From a compilation of student bloopers by R. Lederer)=-
From: kipper@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Kip Ingram)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.marketplace
Subject: Re: Opinions on Indoor Training w/Rollers
Date: 7 Jan 93 15:59:49 GMT
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin, Austin TX

I just bought a set of Minoura Mag II rollers.  I  bought them used, but they're
available new in Colorodo Cyclist for $140.  I have used a Performance Travel
Trak in the past.

To sum it up fast, I'm convinced that rollers are the way to go.  You get just
as good a workout when you're doing steady aerobic work, and the rollers make
you pay a lot of attention to your form.  For the first time this morning I did
a couple of seated jumps to high cadence on the rollers; the bike swayed around
at first but by the time I was done I was jumping smoothly.  I haven't tried
standing up and sprinting yet, but I feel like I'll eventually be able to.

I *hated* my Travel Trak.  Unbelievably boring, stresses the bike, etc.  The
rollers alleviate a *lot* of the boredom, and all of the stress on the bike. 
They will improve your form, whereas the fixed-position trainers will encourage
you to get sloppy.

One word of advice.  When you're using the rollers, set them up *in a doorway*.
That way you have something to grab on three sides.  This just virtually
eliminate any chance you've got of falling.  And wear your helmet, just to be
sure. 

The Minoura rollers seem quite nice.  They make a bit of noise (aside from 
the noise the resistance unit makes), and I think I can detect a resonance 
in the front cylinder at 70 rpm or so.  No doubt the more expensive rollers
offer smoother operation; you usually get what you pay for.  But I wouldn't
hesitate to try the Minoura unit if you're interested in rollers.

BTW, all of this is IMHO :).

Take care,
Kip Ingram
 

I vote for rollers.  As far as I'm concerned there's simply no comparison.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.marketplace
From: jeff@is.s.u-tokyo.ac.jp (Jeff McAffer)
Subject: Re: Opinions on Indoor Training w/Rollers
Reply-To: jeff@is.s.u-tokyo.ac.jp
Organization: University of Tokyo / Object Technology International
    15:42:28 GMT
Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1993 17:16:29 GMT
X-Bytes: 234

I agree that rollers are the only way to go for indoor training.  I
had a set of Tacx SpeedBraker rollers with wind resistance.  Not super
adjustable (resistance) but sturdy and about CDN$ 200.


--
ato de, |m        -- gad!  winter!
From: ovr@lk-hp-13.hut.fi (Otto-Ville Ronkainen)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.marketplace
Subject: Re: Opinions on Indoor Training w/Rollers
Date: 8 Jan 1993 03:02:53 GMT
Organization: L{nsi-Uudenmaan Keisarillinen Polyteknillinen Koulu
Distribution: inet
Reply-To: ovr@snakemail.hut.fi (Otto-Ville Ronkainen)
NNTP-Posting-Host: lk-hp-13.hut.fi

In article <86282@ut-emx.uucp> kipper@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Kip Ingram) writes:
>I vote for rollers.  As far as I'm concerned there's simply no comparison.

(Try riding outdoors :-) I think even rollers are boooooooooring. Maybe
I should buy a TV.
--
Ott-Vill R______________________
ovr@snakemail.hut.fi
From: tthiel@cs.uiuc.edu (Terry Thiel)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.marketplace
Subject: Re: Mini-Pump Review 4/5
Date: 9 Jan 93 00:54:15 GMT
Organization: University of Illinois, Dept. of Comp. Sci., Urbana, IL

chandler@wc.novell.com (Mark Chandler) writes:
>Did you notice that _Bicycling_ didn't test the pumps on actual tires;
>but instead used some wizzy machine that "simulated" a tire.  God forbid
>one of their writers should touch a real tire.  I can't wait for their
>big "Valve Caps: Should You Use Them?" article.  No smiley.

Bicyclings reviews are really crap and are getting worse if anything.
Bicycle Guide seems headed in the same direction.  At least Velo-News
still seems objective.
-Terry
-- 
-Terry
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.marketplace
From: spinaa@rpi.edu (Matt Garretson)
Subject: New cleats for Time pedals??
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 21:38:58 GMT


In one of the bicycling mags, there was a snippet on new, improved cleats for
Time pedals. I think they are supposed to be rounded on both sides to make
it easier to lock into the pedal. 

Are they any better than the original ones? Does Performance or Nashbar carry
them?

Any info would be appreciated....

Thanks,
Matt
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.marketplace
From: ezag637@chpc.utexas.edu (Steve Manifold)
Subject: Sampson Stratics pedals
Organization: The University of Texas System - CHPC
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 93 19:31:49 GMT

Greetings,

I have been reading rec.bicycles.* for only a few months, so I don't
know for sure if this has been discussed, but I did see something in
a posting vaguely alluding to problems with Sampson Stratics pedals.
This interests me since I have a pair on my bike now.  For the record,
I've had them for about 800 miles and I like them (except that the cleat
design precludes walking, but I didn't buy them so I could walk in my
cycling shoes).  The only problem I've had ( and I think it behooves me
to pass this warning on) is that I once replaced the springs in the pedals
with the stiffer springs that came extra with the pedals.  On one pedal
I wasn't careful to ensure proper seating of the circlip that holds the
spindle and bearing in the pedal body.  Well, about 300 yards into my
next ride I ended up on the ground (in traffic) when I tried to pull
away from a light in high gear.  It seems that the circlip gave way, 
allowing the pedal body and my foot to come off the spindle.  Since I
was pedaling hard, my foot hit the ground, with the rest of me following
soon after.  Moral of story:  be sure that circlip is well seated.  I 
haven't had any problems with them since that one episode, but it took
me a while to regain confidence in them during a sprint or hill climb.

I would be interested in knowing about other netters experiences with
them.  If this subject has been beaten to death previously, just E-mail
me.

Happy New Year

Steve
-- 
_______________________________________________________________________________
Steve Manifold                                              University of Texas 
ezag637@hermes.chpc.utexas.edu                           College of Engineering
tasc637@crovax.cem.utexas.edu                       Center for Electromechanics
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.marketplace