HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: sontakke@helix.enet.dec.com (Vikas Sontakke)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Redline vs. Amsoil in SHO transaxle
Date: 10 Apr 92 19:24:26 GMT
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation


In article <7418@brchh104.bnr.ca>, jcyuhn@brchh467.bnr.ca (James Yuhn) writes...
> 
>      I recall one poster describing an episode where the Amsoil in 
>      his SHO crept up the speedometer drive and ended up dripping into
>      the drivers' footwell. I have had no such problems. If I had to
>      guess, I'd say this problem would be caused by overfilling the 
>      transaxle.                                     ^^^^^^^^^^^

Aren't we supposed to we fill it up until it becomes level with the filler hole?
If so, how can it be overfilled?

I have ordered Redline from Southshore Racing, NJ and will be putting in 90 SHO
next week while the clutch is being updated.  I will post my experience about it
then.

Vikas Sontakke		Digital Equipment Corporation, Maynard MA.
Internet:		sontakke@helix.enet.dec.com
    uucp:		{decvax,ucbvax,allegra}!decwrl!helix.enet!sontakke
			sontakke%helix.enet@decwrl.dec.com
From: principe@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com (Tony Principe)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Honda Accord Recall 82-85
Date: 17 Apr 92 10:08:33 EST
Organization: Allen-Bradley Co.

Just received a recall notice from Honda for corrosion of the fuel filler
inlet pipe. The recall affects 82-85 Accords which are operated in 
a corrosive environment such as winter road salt. Mine rotted out last year.
It blew gas all over the garage floor. I had it replaced at the dealer. Now
I'm going to try to get reimbursed from Honda. Luckily I kept the repair
invoice.
                                                         Tony
-- 
*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*
principe@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com                      
                                                    Tony Principe
                                                    Allen-Bradley Co.
                                                    755 Alpha Dr.
                                                    Highland Hts, Oh. 44143
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen)
Subject: FWD power (Was Re: HKS Turbo Kits)
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 92 06:50:20 GMT

In article <5316@nosc.NOSC.MIL> koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz) writes:
>In article <1992Apr8.073945.17165@leland.Stanford.EDU> tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen) writes:
>
>>the taurus SHO used to be the most powerful FWD car.
>>then came the dodge spirit, with a DOHC 16v turbo at 224 bhp.
>>now it's the cadillac allante, with the *290* bhp northstar 32v V-8.
>>and the mag said it didn't have much torque steer, either.
>>0-60 of 6.7 seconds... with an automatic and 3800 lbs of weight.
>
>hmmmmm, are we all sure of the above?
>
>please recall the 500cid Eldorados of a few years ago...  i *honestly* doubt
>that any of the above mentioned new-generation front-drive engines put out more
>power than that monster did...

i was referring to cars currently in production.
i was aware of the FWD toronados with the monster 455 V-8s, though i
didn't know about the 500 cid eldorados.  a FEW years ago???
how long ago was it?  to me, ten years is a long time (so i'm a baby).
and the 4.5 liter V-8 caddys don't count because they ain't got
the beans.  the 455 toronado, however, was fast.
would it be a fair statement to say that the cadillac allante is
the most powerful FWD car in the era of emissions controls?
>
>
>>i remember the good old days when they said 200 bhp was the
>>upper limit for FWD cars...
>
>recalling 500cid Eldorados and 455cid Toronados...  i don't buy any such
>accusation of 200hp being a limit for front-drive... (nor did i at the time
>that that was a prevalent view...)
>
>walt k.
>

just wondering... does anybody remember the reasons they advanced for
this?  and how reliable were the 455 toronados?
-teddy
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: brownr@hydra.rtp.dg.com (Randy Brown)
Subject: Re: Dunlop Qualifier GTs
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 92 21:30:07 GMT
Organization: Data General Corporation. RTP, NC.
Followup-To: rec.autos

In article <fragante.702580710@chilko.ucs.ubc.ca> fragante@unixg.ubc.ca (Gv Fragante) writes:
>Can anyone comment on the Dunlop Qualifier GTs ? I am looking for a low-profile
>all-season tire that is not too $$$ (205/50/15). The D60 A2 does not come in
>this size (as far as I have checked). What other brands have equivalent
>characteristics to the Qualifiers ?

Most excellent tire discussions in rec.autos.  Followup there.
I love the D40M2s, but didn't put them on my car.  Had GT Qualifiers
and loved them.

See ya.

Randy
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: welchb@woods.ulowell.edu
Subject: Re: Need help in finding an oil leak.
Organization: University of Lowell
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1992 15:54:15 GMT

> 	The oil is leaking inside the engine compartment, up fairly
> high, near the steering shaft.  It is not coming from the area of the
> oil filter, the pressure sending unit, the dipstick, or the drain plug.
> It does not seem to be coming from the camshaft cover gasket or the
> PVC valve.  
> 
	I took the car to a professional; the oil leak was in the fuel
pump.  Incidentally, the rubber boot on a constant-velocity joint
had to be replaced.  Either I damaged it with a towel I was using to
clean up the oil, or the oil damaged it.
-- 
Brendan Welch, UMass/Lowell, W1LPG,  welchb@woods.ulowell.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: geiser@pictel.com (Wayne Geiser)
Subject: Starting problem ('84 Ranger - carb. V6)
Organization: PictureTel Corporation
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 17:51:09 GMT

Here I am, appealing to net wisdom for help with my truck.  I think I
know the answer, but don't like it.

The truck:  1984 Ford Ranger 2.8L V6 5sp manual (carburated)

When I start this with the engine cold, it will immediately stall
(runs < 1 second).  If I don't push the pedal to the floor again (as
if I'm setting the choke), it will crank 'til the battery is dead.  If
I do, it will start and run a little longer.  Repeat 3 to 15 times.
It doesn't run very well until warmed up (read: hesitates, uneven
acceleration (i.e. it will suddenly "kick in")).

When warm, if I *DO* push the pedal (out of habit), it will crank for
a few seconds before starting.  If I don't, it will kick over
immediately.

Before anyone yells "CHOKE!", I've had more mechanics than I care to
think about check the choke.  I believe it is in correct operating order.

Any thoughts?  As I said in the beginning, I think I know the answer,
but would like to hear if there is anything else I should be
considering (hint: my solution costs a couple hundred dollars or so to
repair).
**********************************************************************
* Wayne Geiser ("Drivel King")           Voice:    (508) 977-8253    *
* PictureTel Corporation                 FAX:      (508) 532-6893    *
* 222 Rosewood Dr                        Internet: geiser@pictel.com *
* Danvers, MA      01923-1393            CIS:      70313,3615        *
**********************************************************************
"All animals are equal, but some animals are more equal than others."

        - George Orwell ("Animal Farm").
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: nash@ucselx.sdsu.edu (Ron Nash)
Subject: Re: G.M. (late model) pickups (ROAR)  
Organization: San Diego State University
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1992 16:23:48 GMT

In article <1992Apr16.150141.5600@unx.sas.com> sasclh@unx.sas.com (Cary Hatch) writes:
>I have a 91 GMC half ton pickup...
...
>My pickup and all other (that I know of) later model 
>g.m. pickups (gasoline) make a "roaring" noise in the 
>first 5 seconds or so of acceleration, only upon start 
>up.  It doesn't matter whether the vechicle is cold or 
>warm. ... 
>After the initial "roar" the vehicle operates quietly 
>and normally...  The phenom is described to me by other
>people I work with in the following vehicles:  an S15 (4.3),
>a chevy 1/2 ton 350, and an asto van (4.3) all automatics...

The "roaring" is the thermostatic fan clutch engaging the fan.  Until
the fluid in the clutch warms up (5 seconds or so) the fan turns at
about the same speed as the engine.  Once the fluid warms up, it
decouples the fan and it freewheels.  On a hot day or when towing
uphill, you can hear the same roaring when the fan clutch engages.

My Ford F150 does the same thing when starting.  It is only when I am
towing horses up a long grade, or it is hot (100 F or so) in stop and
go traffic, do I ever hear the fan clutch engage.


-- 
Ron Nash 	San Diego State University
Internet:  	nash@ucselx.sdsu.edu
Gin-N-Tonic	6 year old Arab/Saddlebred endurance horse
Luv on Fire	9 year old Arab, trusty trail horse
From: wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1992 15:01:56 GMT
Subject: Re: **** EXPERT ADVICE NEEDED ****
Organization: Hewlett Packard - Boise, ID
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

In <1992Apr3.203219.25439@tc.fluke.COM> John F. Berkey writes:

>1. The Old's 307 has electrical connections that connect to the carburetor, and
>other monitoring devices. My question is that the Buick 350 has nowhere for
>these connections to go. So what do I do with them? I'm not sure but I think
>there for monitoring the air flow. 
>
They hook up to a fuel metering solenoid and also provide throttle position
information to the computer.  You can leave the harness unhooked but attached
(just in case your area institues an emissions program and you have to put
the stuff back in).  Your computer will go out to lunch because the inputs
will be wrong (no fuel delivery control, no throttle position sensing and
your O2 sensor will no doubt go out of range).  You'll have to pull the fuse
on the computer or take out the Check Engine light bulb if you don't want 
the warning showing up in your dash.  You could try to use the original
carburetor and have the computer active, but most likely it wouldn't work
because the 350 engine's parameters wouldn't be within the adjustment range
of the carb.

>2. The old's 4 speed transmission has about four wires that attach to the side
>of the transmission using a clip on connector. My question is what are these
>wires for?, and what wires will I need to connect up to the Buick's 3 speed
>transmission?
>
I can't remember for sure but at least one of them goes goes to the lockup
clutch in the torque converter (enable).  Seems another is a ground for the
computer or may be giving gear select info to the computer.  In any case,
just leave these connections unhooked as well and tie the wire up so it 
won't get caught on anything.

The Buick's tranny shouldn't need any electrical hookups unless it requires an 
input from the gas pedal for passing gear kickdown.  In that case, you can 
rewire the switch under the gas pedal so it functions properly for what you 
need and run a wire down to the tranny input.  The reverse light is down there
somewhere on a single wire so be sure to hook that up, too. 

Wes Fujii

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Wes Fujii               *           JAPANESE BUSINESS MOTTO           *
* Boise, Idaho            *        You can buy anything you want        *
* wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com *             with a lot of money             *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Wednesday, 8 Apr 1992 17:11:15 EDT
From: Karl Nordstrom <KXN2@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: GM large Cube fwd autos

>no transaxle. Long(itudinally) mounted engine w/standard GM automatic
>attached;
>the power (was) fed back (to the) front via two shafts running along the
>engine to joints up front. big mess.

Awh, their part way to being a awd car.  I guess that they don't have
a tunnel to the rear axial large enough for a drive shaft.

With two shafts from the trany to the front axial I would guess that they
had equal length front drive shafts.  That would account for the lack of
torque steer.
Organization: Mythos/Xcalbrin Inc.
X-School: Penn State University
Date: Wednesday, 8 Apr 1992 09:03:38 EDT
From: <RGH105@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: ?????LIKE INFO ON PAXTON
 <2810@ub.d.umn.edu> <1992Apr2.215815.12072@mlb.semi.harris.com>
 <s7wtm__@rpi.edu> <thos.702602580@suite.sw.oz.au>

Just to add gasoline to the fire, In most street applications the Blower would
be the best one to use.  I still haven't figured out why most of the
corporations don't use them.  I know Toyota has one for the MR2 and Ford
has one on the Thunderbird but these were just little marketing experiments
and in Fords case not a very good one.  How could anyone justify the expense
of a blown V-6 when the V-8 made more power for less???  I think Ford is
clueless, but that's my opinion.  Anyway, getting back to the comparison thing
most cars are driven at low to mid speeds in the every day world, not wide
open all the time.  If you plan on sustained high speeds then the Turbo is
the way to go.  But if you want plenty of low end torque the Blower is the
way to go.  Oh yeah, I remember a top fuel car that was trying to use
2 turbos instead of a Blower.  Does anyone remember that????  It was just
in the last 2(?) years.  Anyway they couldn't get it to hook up the
lag was so bad that they couldn't get the tranny programmed to hook it
up correctly.  This thing was a beast, but it was also a Hell of a lot
harder to work on as it was a very complex system.  Anyway just my
$.02.  As to the dude in the Turbos v. Super thing I think that he is.
L8r,
     Rob

DoD#0459
"Yes I know that DoD's have no reason to be in this section but what
the hell, Why noT??????"-me
From: dtn@po.CWRU.Edu (Donald T. Noda)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Engine swap or rebuild?
Date: 8 Apr 92 03:05:22 GMT
Article-I.D.: usenet.1992Apr8.030522.17373
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio, (USA)


	I have a Buick Regal -1981.  The usual 231 3.8L engine.
It has 104K miles on it and basically it's on it's way out.
MPG is 9-10 city and 22max hwy.  I want to increase this and my
acceration capability which has also dropped.
	My question is this:  Nationwise Auto has quoted a
rebuild of my engine at about $1000.  It is said that I can get
a rebuilt Chevy 350 installed for around the same amount of
money.  Which is better in: MPG, performance, reliability?


	Also, is there anything I can do to improve the 
standard stock suspension to go with the increased power?
Will any of this require drivetrain and/or transmission mods?

Thanks in advance for your input!!

Don
-- 
           __    _______       _        |
      ----/  \  /__  __/  /\  / /------ |216-754-1981
    -----/ /\ \   / /    / /\/ /-----   |dtn@cwns4.ins.cwru.edu
 ------/_____/  /_/    /_/  \/----      |
From: severse@sdcc3.ucsd.edu (Stephen Everse)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Mustang Mufflers different
Keywords: MUSTANG MUFFLER
Date: 15 Apr 92 18:59:07 GMT

I have a 91 Mustang LX 5.0L and I noticed that the original mufflers
were not alike.  I was installing new Flowmasters, and after the
operation I noticed that my original Ford mufflers were quite
different from one another, one was a lot bigger than the other.
Wouldn't this cause unequal back pressure and problems for my engine
or is this some sort of assembly screw-up?



From: donrm@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Don Montgomery)
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1992 18:30:03 GMT
Subject: Re: 1034 vs. 1157
Organization: HP Network Measurements Div, Santa Rosa, CA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

From my technical trivia files:

The Sylvania catalog for S-8 bulbs says:

lamp #   volts   amps  MSCD  fil type  lite center   life

1034     12.8    1.8    32      C-6       1.25       200
         14.0    .59     3      C-6        --        5000

1157     12.8    2.10   32      C-6       1.25       1200
         14.0     .59    3      C-6        --        5000

So it looks like you're better off with the 1157 as the "signal"
filament boasts 1000 hours more life than the 1034.

BTW, both bulbs come in amber coat (A suffix) or amber glass (NA suffix)

Since both lamps have the same light output (MSCD = mean spherical 
candela), I would assume the signal filament of the 1157 lamp is a
lower color temperature as it has longer life, and therefore isn't
quite as efficient as the other lamp's filament.

There are other factors to consider in the manufacture of the lamp;
the 1157 may be backfilled with hydrogen to aid in cooling.  Without
contacting the product engineer for the particular lamp, it's hard
to tell what the real difference between the two is.

Don Montgomery
donrm@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com
From: sheriffp@Software.Mitel.COM (Peter Sheriff)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: loss of power, etc.
Date: 8 Apr 92 16:31:34 GMT
Organization: Mitel. Kanata (Ontario). Canada.


     The fact that the vacuum reading drops to zero when the engine is
revved may suggest a blocked exhaust system. Maybe the catalytic converter
has had a meltdown. This was a problem with cats that had been subjected
to rich mixtures at one time or another. Another thing could be an
exhaust pipe or muffler that has rusted and partially collapsed.

                               Pete
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:5736 rec.autos:11214
From: utidjian@remarque.berkeley.edu (David M.V. Utidjian)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
Subject: Re: Reconditioning the EGR valve - is it possible?
Date: 12 Apr 1992 16:37:07 GMT
Organization: Processed People for a Processed America
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: remarque.berkeley.edu

In article <s5nbcINNhl7@agate.berkeley.edu> avk@hafnium.cchem.berkeley.edu (Tony Konashenok) writes:
>Is there an easy way to recondition an EGR valve on a 351M Ford
>engine? Trouble: leaky vacuum chamber. No theoretical guesses,
>please - I tried it. I'm simply reluctant to pay $70 for this
>damned widget...
>
	Tony there is probably no way to rebuild that EGR valve....
In the old days, about ten years ago we used to beadblast the metal
valve area.  If your vacuum chamber is leaking it is probably because
the diaphragm that operates the valve has a tear in it.  Unless you can
dismantle the diaphragm portion of the valve AND obtain a new diaphragm
AND reassemble the vacuum portion there is no way to repair it.
Typically the vacuum portion of the valve is sealed like a tin can with
a rolled bead of metal between the two halves.

	Your only other alternative to buying a new one (or a used one)
is to fashion a new vacuum motor and attach it to the valve portion
of the EGR.  This would take more time and expense than buying a new one.

>   Tony
>
>-- 
>Tony Konashenok   avk@hafnium.cchem.berkeley.edu   (510)527-7524 (home)
>University of California, Berkeley                 (510)642-5831 (office)
>
-Dave-
email: utidjian@remarque.berkeley.edu
From: greenfie@vtserf.cc.vt.edu (Steve Greenfield)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: New Car
Date: 10 Apr 92 11:04:10 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Virginia Tech, Blacksburg, VA

I am sorry I posted the questions about new car information to the
rec.autos.tech newsgroup.  I was unaware of the alternative newsgroups
(shows how much attention I pay sometimes).  I will be more careful in
the future!

Can someone give me a list of ALL automobile related newsgroups and what
they are used for specifically?  I really would appreciate it!

Thanks!

- feats@vtvm1.cc.vt.edu
From: wdh@oversteer.Eng.Sun.COM (Dennis Henderson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Dunlop Qualifier GTs
Date: 14 Apr 92 19:19:26 GMT
Reply-To: wdh@oversteer.Eng.Sun.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems
NNTP-Posting-Host: oversteer


I put a set of 205/70-14 Dunlop GT Qualifier HR4 on my Pontiac 
6000 STE.  I'm not impressed but they are probably worth the 
money I paid for them which was $60=cheap.  They are no comparison to 
soemthing like the D60 in dry handling.  Not even close.

I was told they would outhandle the Eagle GT as they were 
H-rated.  WRONG!!!!!  Not even close.  The Eagles barely 
squealed in corners, the Dunlops squeal quite easily.

I was told they would *not* develop cracks in the sidewalls as did 
a set of GT Qualifiers did in the early 80's.  
WRONG again.  They are developing tiny cracks in the sidewalls 
after ~8K miles and less than one year.  

All in all I paid only half of the cost of Goodyear Eagle GT+4s so 
I should expect much.

They are lasting much better than the previous Eagle GTs.
They do pretty decent in the rain as they have a fairly open tread 
pattern.
I can not hear any excess noise.  I do have a fairly loud exhaust.

Overall:
A wanna-be performance tire.

..Dennis Henderson, '84 Z28, '85 Pontiac 6000STE, '88 Ford Van
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Wednesday, 8 Apr 1992 13:12:35 EDT
From: Karl Nordstrom <KXN2@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Turbocharger VS. Supercharger.
 <5312@nosc.NOSC.MIL> <johnson.702696715@wrs.com>

In article <johnson.702696715@wrs.com>, johnson@wrs.com (David Johnson) says:

>Yes but is anal retentiveness?

hey Dave go away.  I don't need to read such garbage.  get a life.
Don't waste my time by copying entire articles into your post either.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@cica4.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: Fuel octane versus power
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1992 20:44:43 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 I figure there's a variability between octane and energy content. That is
if you had, say, an alcohol and an alkane of equal octane number I would
expect some difference. Something like Benzene with its tight bond ring
I believe is reasonably high octane but has a high energy also. What is
really needed (by us pedalmashers) is the highest-energy hydrocarbon that
is also in the 90-100 octane range and a semi-volatile liquid.

 Any entries?

--
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
From: philg@zurich.ai.mit.edu (Philip Greenspun)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Ford Scorpio from Hell
Date: 17 Apr 92 20:32:38 GMT
Reply-To: philg@zurich.ai.mit.edu
Distribution: rec.autos.tech
Organization: M.I.T. Artificial Intelligence Lab.


I am the unfortunate owner of a Ford (Merkur) Scorpio.  It has been in
the shop or out of comission for six months out of the last year.
Ford refuses to honor its obligations under the warranty or even
answer letters or return phone calls.  Has anyone out there had any
luck getting Ford to fix a Scorpio?  Failing that, does anyone know a
good lawyer in Massachusetts who sues recalcitrant/dishonorable car
companies?

Basically, the problems I have had fit into the following categories:

engine/fuel injection:  hesitation and stalling, esp. when cold

ventilation system: bizarre computer decisions, alternately roasting
or freezing the driver.  Rattlesnake noise from behind Tach.

alignment: car wanders and/or pulls on the highway.  After six visits
to Lincoln/Mercury dealers, was told that the Pirelli P6 tires were
defective.  Even after replacing tires ($500), the car still wanders
and pulls.

wheel balance:  steering wheel visibly vibrates as 30 MPH.

brakes:  brakes pull, but only intermittently

Ford alarm system: either won't trigger when side windows pounded on
(despite my having paid extra for "light touch" sensor) or triggers
all by itself in middle of the night despite the absence of wind or
vibration in my driveway.

the list goes on and on ...

Moral: Buy Japanese.