HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk (Codesmiths)
Subject: Re: Oil in the clutch?
Cc: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Reply-To: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 09:25:29 +0000


> >I have experienced major clutch slippage problems with a [bike]

> Can this happen in a regular car?  Does engine oil get in the clutch?

It's not meant to, but one effect often reported with synthetic oils
is that they find oil leaks dinosaur oils don't manage to. If you
have a slight leak from the rear crankshaft seal, it might be
insignificant with hole-in-the-ground oil, but enough of a leak with
synthetic to cause clutch slippage.

Pre-war cars commonly had a cork clutch, in an oil bath. These
*don't* like synthetic oil.

          Andy Dingley    dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: chucko@kronos.arc.nasa.gov (Chuck Fry)
Subject: Re: Anyone know about aftermarket electronic ignitions
Organization: Recom Technologies, NASA Ames Research Center, Moffett Field, CA
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 14:18:01 GMT

In article <c7nm=_+.esprit@netcom.com> esprit@netcom.com (Alan F. Perry) writes:
>I have a 1978 Lotus with an Allison XR-700 electronic ignition which
>was installed long before I bought the car.  Right now, I am having a 
>problem with the car and there are many indications that the problem
>is in the electronic ignition.

I used to have one years ago in a Saab Sonett III.  The engine was
rebuilt, and on the initial start after the rebuild it kept dying
every minute or so.  The mechanic junked the Allison right then and
there, and switched back to points.  Never once had an ignition
failure after that...

If you want a real electronic ignition, go with a Mallory or MSD.  My
advice on the Allison is to pitch it.  Even points are more reliable.

 -- Chuck Fry  Chucko@charon.arc.nasa.gov
    boring you with yet another Saab story
From: leres@ace.ee.lbl.gov (Craig Leres)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: new engine proms from J.C. Whitney & Co.
Date: 29 Jul 92 02:19:21 GMT
Reply-To: leres@ee.lbl.gov (ucbvax!leres for uucp weenies)
Organization: Lawrence Berkeley Laboratory, Berkeley
NNTP-Posting-Host: 128.3.112.6

Got the lastest J.C. Whitney catalog today. They have a "computer chip
switching system" for 84-91 GM cars. They handle 2 or 4 chips and use a
keylock to switch between them. But what's really interesting is that
they also sell some custom proms for use with this item:

    Security Chip. Prevents computer-controlled fuel injector and fuel
    pump from operating so engine won't start (vehicles with TPI
    injection will start & idle only). Vehicle will not run even if
    data cable is cut or disconnected. Vehicle will run only when you
    select another chip with your key. This chip can be activated only
    when ignition is off -- prevents accidental shutoff when vehicle is
    moving.

    Valet Chip. Limits speed to 10 MPH. Prevents parking lot attendants
    from driving your car like a racer.

The switch boxes are $200-300 and the chips are $75.

Next thing you know, they'll be offering:

    Dealer Chip. Car runs normally for 3 months/3000 miles and then
    runs rough, stalls, surges, backfires, etc. forcing customer to
    bring vehicle back to dealer for "servicing."

This is really amazing technology.

		Craig
From: rmartin@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Robert Martin)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Drivetrain Vibration
Date: 22 Jul 92 18:52:19 GMT
Reply-To: rmartin@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Robert Martin)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

You stated that this vibration has been going on since you bought the
vehicle, and you have checked out the obvious, it is now time to check
out the not-so-obvious.  I would consider the torque-converter and its
mount to be suspect.  Is there any vibration if you rev up the engine
while in neutral?

Just putting in my two cents worth.  It's not easy to diagnose this
sort of problem over the net.

Good Luck ......  Bob
From: kanack@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (Kris Kanack)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 14:11:38 GMT
Subject: Re: 86 => 66 Mustang conversion.
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

I installed a 5.0 HO EFI and T-5 5 speed out of an '88 mustang into my '64
galaxie convert.  I bought the complete drive train with all electronics,
in tank fuel pump and clutch pedal assembly for $1700 with 22,000 mi on it.
It cost me about another $300 to have a shorter drive shaft built, install 
exhaust and buy an 8 qt. front sump oil pan.  It wasn't very difficult to hook
up the electronics as long as you have a wiring diagram.  I used a big block
mustang radiator and had to make brackets for mounting it as well as the cable
clutch and in tank fuel pump.  The system works really great even in such a 
heavy car.  Someone had transplanted a 351C into it before I bought it and the 
HO seems to pull much better and gets 22 - 24 mi/gal on the highway.  My guess
is that a HO in an early mustang would really make it fly as they are even
lighter than the current model.   
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: Timing belt replacement in a Sentra
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 92 07:25:19 GMT

rjwade@rainbow.ecn.purdue.edu (Robert J. Wade) writes:
: 
: what is this 'freewheeling'...if the belt breaks..are the valves not free
: to do whatever they want???

It means that when the rubber band (oops, I mean timing belt) breaks, and the
valves are in some random position (some up, some down), the pistons are
not going to hit them as the engine continues to spin.  I suppose this
is accomplished either by cutouts in the crown of the piston, or by just having
enough clearance to accomidate the valves in a worst-case situation, e.g.
piston at TDC and valves pushed all the way in.

Give me a timing chain anyday, the way it's SUPPOSED to be done.  Yes, it's
noisier, but they last forever.

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - you get what you pay for; you pay (and pay, and pay) for what you get.
hinz@picard.med.ge.com


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: wcr@unislc.uucp (William Rankin)
Subject: Altitude effects on ignition timing
Organization: Unisys Corporation SLC
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 19:29:55 GMT

I seem to recall that on non-computer controlled (mid 70s) cars that
the ignition timing should be adjusted for altitude. Anybody able to
verify this and if so, what is the adjustment ( degrees + or - per 1000')
The GM factory shop manuals don't say anything about altitude adjustments.
Just so I dont misunderstand, advance is more deg before TDC and retard
is less deg before TDC, true? The factory setting is 20 deg BTDC.
Since this car is already equipped with high-altitude emissions, perhaps
they already factored in an altitude advance into this number.
Any comments welcome.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jbm@eos.arc.nasa.gov (Jeffrey Mulligan)
Subject: Re: Run On
Organization: NASA Ames Research Center
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 01:22:01 GMT

met@naucse.cse.nau.edu (Millam Tackitt) writes:

>when you get home tonight leave your car idleing, open the hood and turn
>the idle screw up until she idles at around 1600rpm's. get the garden 
>hose and turn it on to a slow but steady dribble. remove your air 
>cleaner top and let the water from your hose dribble into the engine. 
>If the engine starts to bog and die pull the hose away and turn the 
>dribble down or set the idle up. then return the water to the engine for
>about 10 minutes.
>this will remove carbon build-up from the cylinders and probably remove
>the run-on problem also.
>NO this will not harm your engine. I have used this technique for 20 
>yrs. and on every make of vehicle.

One caveat about pouring water down the carb:
I did this on my truck a few years ago and water got into the float bowl
through the bowl vent tube which projects out over the throat in this
particular carb.  Surface tension at the water/gas interface prevented
any flow from occuring, I had to tear the carb apart and clean the
water out.  Moral:  keep the water away from the vent tube.

-- 

	Jeff Mulligan (jbm@eos.arc.nasa.gov)
	NASA/Ames Research Ctr., Mail Stop 262-2, Moffett Field CA, 94035
	(415) 604-3745
From: Cliff_Lum@mindlink.bc.ca (Cliff Lum)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: grinding gears when revving engine at high speed
Date: 29 Jul 92 02:09:24 GMT
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada
Distribution: world

> Eric Perozziello writes:
> 
> Msg-ID: <1992Jul28.181900.25643@leland.Stanford.EDU>
> Posted: Tue, 28 Jul 92 18:19:00
> Org.  : DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
> 
> >
> >When I rev the engine to nearly redline, shifting to second gear is
> >very tricky.  I try to pull the shifter into second, and instead of
> >going in, it gives resistance and the transmission makes a very loud
> >grinding sound.  What causes this?  More importantly, what is the
> >proper way to shift quickly in this situation?
> >--
> 
> The synchro's in the tranny can't make the 9000 RPM clutch match the
> NEW say, 5000-6000 RPM input shaft speed, if you were to engage into
> the next higher gear.
> You could try double-clutching, or shifting g after holding the cluthc
> down for a sec, but I guess youre in a hurry if youre shifting at 9 G  :^)
> 
> 
>  You could try some RedLine Manual Transmission Lubricant. It is synthetic
> and specially formaulated for manual transmission. Comes as MTL and MT90.
> 75W80 and 75W90 respectively.
> Some benefits are:
> Eliminates nothchy shifting, enables high speed downshifting which is
> probably more severe than high speed upshifting, excellent shifting cold, it
> is better than using regular gear oil but about the same as ATF fluid,
> non-corrosive to the synchros, perfect synchronizer coefficient of friction.
> I use MT90 myself, with regular gear oil i coulnd shift down from 3 to 2, and
> difficult shifting in the mornings when cold, then used ATF fluid (dextron
> II) which works but some gear noise at higher temps.
> For an information pak or ordering  call (800)624-7958 if it can't be found
> locally in your area.
> .
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: eur@dutncp2.tn.tudelft.nl (Eur van Andel)
Subject: Re: head gasket on a taurus
Organisation: TU Delft, The Netherlands
Organization: Delft University of Technology
Distribution: rec
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 10:20:56 GMT

In <1992Jul23.113242.13953@vax5.cit.cornell.edu> prmx@vax5.cit.cornell.edu writes:

>Hello there folks!
>I am about to replace the head gasket on my '86 Ford Taurus 2.5L engine.
>My question is: Torque the gasket once, or should I slack the bolts at some
>interval, then re-torque them.  If the later, at what interval.

>Many Thanks!

>Peter Morenus

Typically, you should tighten them in three "waves" and again after 
15 min revving. But DO look in a manual for the right settings: they
might be listed on the shrink-wrap of your new gasket.

eur
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: eap@leland.Stanford.EDU (Eric Perozziello)
Subject: Re: Carbon Buildup in engines ( valves ? ).....
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 92 01:32:36 GMT

>: 
>: * How can one diagnose if in fact there is carbon buildup ?
>: 
>Perform a compression test.  If the compression is substantially above
>what your service manual says it should be, there's carbon in there.
>

I'm not so sure about that. I assume you mean the compression will go
up because the VOLUME of the carbon changes the Compression ratio?
My experience says that it only takes a LITTLE bit of carbon to cause 
pre-ignition (run-on). I can't see how one could measure this small change.
Especially since the specs differ from measurements vary WILDLY. It will 
be different from cylinder to cylinder (and NOT duee to more carbon in
one cylinder!)  I suppose you could argue that when you do a "wet" 
compression test (oil in the cylinder), it's higher than the dry (no oil)
because of the volume of oil you added ???????  :^)  

Anyway, to answer the original poster's question about how to get rid of
it, yes, a long HARD drive is good. If that doesn't work, I have a method
I've used for years, and it works: Take about 1 qt of water and slowly
dribble it into the intake airstream of the hot, running engine. it 
may take 15 minutes to use all the water- set the idle fast if you desire.
You can try this over and over. Try running the engine hard between 
doses (up hills at full throttle). The next best thing is 1). install
a water injection system, or 2). disassmeble and clean!

-Eric
From: time@sco.COM (Tim Ervin)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: HELP!! - '65 Olds 442
Keywords: rear coil springs
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 92 19:58:28 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: The Santa Cruz Operation, Inc.



I've recently acquired a 1965 Oldsmobile Cutlass 442 with a new
paint job and interior.  The car looks great, runs well and
(up until a week ago) handled pretty good.  I took my car into
a shop to get an oil change and have it smog inspected (to change
ownership of the vehicle).  When I picked up my car, the mechanic
who worked on it informed me that my car had a busted right-rear
coil spring and shock.  My question is, where can I find new
coil springs?  I really would rather not go to a junk yard and replace
my old worn coil springs with old worn coil springs (if ya know what
I mean).  Are these fairly easy to come by?  The shocks are no problem,
but I can't seem to find anyone who can get their hands on new coil
springs.  Are rear CS's uncommon for 1965?


Any help would be appreciated.  I would also like to find someone
who is willing to do the work (that is, if I can get the parts).

HELP!!!!!!!!!

-- 
```1'''      1'''
   1  .      1,, 
   1  1 1\/1 1,,, 
"Cut down by a blade of grass,
 felt slain by a drop of rain..."
 - Poi Dog Pondering -   "Jack Ass Ginger"
From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Mercedes Mechanic reqd. - Oxford UK.
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 1992 21:09:25 -0500

 DT> Now there _must_ be a decent Mercedes mechanic _somewhere_ near Oxford 
 DT> U.K.
 DT> so if you know of one could you let me know.

You might be able to get a referral from the president of the Mercedes-Benz Club
Ltd:
                Stan Smith
                2 Craighill Road
                Sharples, Bolton, BL1 7HH
From: hejl@aslws01.asl.dl.nec.com (Mike Hejl)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: checking spark
Date: 22 Jul 92 19:59:16 GMT
Followup-To: hejl@asl.dl.nec.com
Organization: NEC America, Inc. Irving, Texas

In article <31160110@hpspkla.spk.hp.com> borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski) writes:
>In rec.autos.tech, maral@repare.EBay.Sun.COM writes:
>
>>What is the best way (safest as well) to check for spark if one does
>>not have a timing light?  I just want to verify I have spark coming
>>from my distributor.
>
>The easiest thing is probably to just pull the spark plug wire from one

Why not just buy one of those $5 pencil-like wire testers?  They have a gless
gas filled tube that illuminates on each spark.  Shure beats getting zapped
with the resulting banged elbow :-)


-- 
+=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=+
| Mike Hejl @ NEC America Advanced Switching Lab, Irving, TX  (214) 518-5101|
| hejl@asl.dl.nec.com    I don't even speak for myself, much less NEC...    |
+=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=+
From: mike%jim.uucp@wupost.wustl.edu (Mike Suter)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: What is "synthetic" about synthetic oil?
Date: 27 Jul 92 19:34:41 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: BITS, St. Louis, MO

pburke@vms.macc.wisc.edu (Peter Burke, MIC, 608-263-7744) writes:

>My next investment will be small device called "Preluber", which 
>pre-pressurizes the oil gallery before you crank the engine over.  
>I am planning to see the 1 million miles on these engines ;-)

I have heard of these.  How hard are they to install?  And about how
much do they run?  Too bad the car co's don't make them standard
equipment.. They could then also keep the pump running a minute or
so after you shut the car down to cool the engine (especially for
turbos).

Mike
-- 
mike%jim.uucp@wupost.wustl.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen)
Subject: backup lights on audi 5000S
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 92 20:29:42 GMT

well, i just discovered that the car's backup lights are on
whenever the parking lights or headlights are on.  doesn't matter
whether it's in reverse or neutral.  pretty annoying.
has anybody run into this before?  on a related note, where can i
find a manual for this car?  i've never seen a chilton's for
the '86 5000S.  since the car is 6 years old, i'd rather not
pay the dealer megabucks to fix this.

thanks.
-teddy
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bk629@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Eric K. Hatfield)
Subject: Re: Chevrolet 2.3L bogs down ...
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio, (USA)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 92 20:52:58 GMT



tTo my knowledge Chevrolet didn't put a 2.3 l in any Celebrity.  
This is probably a 2.5 L commonly
known as the "Iron Duke" .

Also, GM currently doesn't make a 2.8 l turbo engine but they have experimented 
with it.
[B

This editor leaves much to be desired!

Eric H
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.driving
From: dye@i88.isc.com (Ken R. Dye )
Subject: S10 Blazer towing advice/experiences needed...
Organization: INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation, Naperville, IL
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 19:09:21 GMT


	A friend is considering the purchase of an S10 Blazer 
(hopefully with the trailering options) for towing about 5000
pounds (ford mustang race car + tandem axle trailer + other junk).
The specs of the Blazer say it can handle up to 6000, but he is
looking for real-world experience and advice.  The trailer, of
course, will have electric or surge brakes.  Will this setup
work out OK, or will it be a nightmare?  

--Ken
-- 
Ken R. Dye				an optimist is a guy		 |
Interactive Systems Corp., Chicago	that has never had		 | 
(800) LAI-UNIX x341			much experience			 |
dye@i88.isc.comm						archy	 |
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: nsw@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (Neil Weinstock)
Subject: Fixing a stripped oil pan ('90 Legend)
Organization: The Flying Squid Patrol
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 21:59:19 GMT
Keywords: Time-sert, Acura, Jiffy Lube, pain in the ass

Here's the short version of the story.  Jiffy Lube overtorqued the drain
plug on my '90 Legend and stripped the oil pan.  Jiffy Lube guy says they
will fix it for me using an insert called the Time-sert.  They claim Honda
commissioned a California company to build these things because the stripping
was a common problem, due to (in the JL guy's opinion) the use of an aluminum
drain plug washer.

Questions:

	1) Can anyone comment on the long-term durability of the Time-sert?
	   My Acura dealer wanted to put in a new oil pan, but JL won't pay
	   for that.

	2) I have been told by one source that the installation of the insert
	   (threading the oil pan in particular) can cause metal filings to
	   get up into the oil pan, and that to really do it right, you should
	   remove the oil pan and clean it out after, at which point you
	   might as well just replace the pan.  Can anyone comment on this?

Please email.  Any response much appreciated, the sooner the better.  Comments
on the wisdom of using Jiffy Lube not necessary, I've learned my lesson... :-(

                                - Neil

--==--==--==--==--==--==--==--==--==--==--==--==--==--==--==--==--==--
Neil Weinstock @ AT&T Bell Labs         //     What was sliced bread
att!edsel!nsw or nsw@garage.att.com   \X/    the greatest thing since?
From: met@naucse.cse.nau.edu (Millam Tackitt)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: How to use blue silicone RTV
Date: 28 Jul 92 10:33:36 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Northern Arizona University, Flagstaff AZ

In article <1992Jul28.010208.22898@leland.Stanford.EDU> eap@leland.Stanford.EDU (Eric Perozziello) writes:
>In article <1992Jul27.181337.21819@Arco.COM> ericc@Arco.COM (Chang Eric(214)754-3562) writes:
>>I have a water pump in my car which just started leaking.  I fugured that the
>>gasket was worn out, and, upon opening it up, discovered that it was.  It had
>>completely hardned and was brittle enough so it did not seal.  I was advised
>>to build a new gasket out of blue RTV.  The instructions on the blister pack
>>were clear and explicit.  I laid down a 1/8" bead and screwed the bolts back in
>
And for less than the price of the tube of sillycon you could have
purchased the proper gasket and done the job only once. :(
Sillycon is the poorest substitute for the proper materials that 
an industry has ever perpetrated into the market. Even if it had
worked you would most likely have gotten a large quantity of hardened
sillycon squished into your cooling system and lodged into the core
of your radiator. causing over heating and a good sized repair bill.
NEVER use sillycon in a pressurized environment or in an unsupported
area.
***************************************************************
Millam E. Tackitt            met@naucse.cse.nau.edu

1967 Cougar XR-7 271/289 4spd/CR 4spd
1968 Cyclone GT *385*/427 3 deuces and a 4spd with a 9"locker
1953 3/4 ton Chevy pickumup truck


Not running... yet:
1968 Galaxie XL-GT 345/390 Auto (now deemed repairable)
1965 "A" code Mustang
***************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: barnett@paintbrush.aca.mcc.com (Jim Barnett)
Subject: Re: Volvo vs. SAAB (Was Re: grinding gears...)
Organization: MCC
	<1992Jul30.101358.27173@mr.med.ge.com> <1992Jul30.132613.4888@kth.se>
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 23:07:25 GMT


   True. Although the Volvo can be brought up quite a bit since their engines
   are so stable. A friend of mine has a 240 '84 with with a B23 engine that 
   now resides on the other side of 300 hp. 

Do tell! I've got a 1975 245 (B20F). I'm kinda fond of the old barge,
but it has no acceleration. What can I do to give it some zip? I'm not
planning to race it or anything, but I'd like to be able to pull onto
the highway without worrying about getting pancaked by some semi. 
I'd be willing to put some time and money into the project...

- Jim 





--
From: little_re@lrc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Tire size & Automobile magazine question
Date: 23 Jul 92 21:01:44 GMT
Organization: Lenoir-Rhyne College, Hickory, NC

In a recent article in Automobile (I rarely read it), they were talking
about the Olds Achieva SCX.  It's a special addition with some changes
in suspension, wheels and tires.  One weird thing in the article struck
me:  The tires on the Achieva SC are 195/60-15.  The SCX has 185/55-14.
I may be wrong about the exact sizes, but that's the general idea.  Anyway,
the article stated that the wider tires on the SCX made the car handle
better.  Am I wrong (it wouldn't be the first time), but aren't 195's 
wider than 185's???  Is it the fact that the aspect ratio is lower that
they call the tires wider?

   Just curious...........

--
Rich Little			I didn't do it, she was 18, I'm broke, nobody 
LITTLE_RE@LRC.EDU		saw me do it, and you can't prove anything!!
Theta Xi Fraternity
Lenoir-Rhyne College		The Hoofbeat of America...
Hickory, NC			Today's (and yesterday's) Mustang!!

	A hot-rodder is someone who is completely 
	baffled by people who are NOT into cars!
From: leonglaw@hpsgm2.sgp.hp.com (Lawrence Leong)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 10:16:43 GMT
Subject: Chemlube?  Anyone heard of it?
Organization: HP Singapore
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

Has anyone used/tried/heard of Chemlube?  Its advertised as a synthetic 
engine oil, sales rep claims it is better than Mobil 1, Castrol etc.

lawrence
From: spidell@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 21:33:48 GMT
Subject: Re: Why are Carroll Shelby's cars so expensive ?
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server