HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: alix@netcom.com (Alexandria North)
Subject: Re: Photo Schools
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 19:19:24 GMT

In article <PHR.92Nov11210357@napa.telebit.com> phr@telebit.com (Paul Rubin) writes:
>A friend of mine took some more serious courses at a local junior
>college.  These were in pro lighting techniques and product
>photography and had real projects, grades, etc.--the courses were
>quite a lot of work but he got correspondingly more out of it.
>I don't remember the costs or details but again it was surprisingly
>cheap.
>

This semester, I'm taking a basic photography course at a local community 
college. I had never done any darkroom work before, and this class is 
a prerequisite to the studio lighting classes, so this is where I started.

Wow! I have never worked so hard for a class before! Taking two different 
programming language classes at the same time was easier than this.
Working full-time, I'd say that a class such as the one I'm taking would 
consume most of a person's spare time, if you are committed to really 
learning the material inside-out. Now, I knew a lot about photography before 
I started this class, and it's still been incredibly intense, so I wonder 
what it would be like to a true newbie! 

But, you can get a great deal out of this kind of class. Junior colleges 
have a lot to offer. Even with the new increases in per unit fees, 
it's a bargain. I recommend that anyone who would like to learn more about 
photography should call around to local community colleges, and find one 
that offers an A.S. and/or certificate program in this field. Be prepared 
to spend a *lot* of money on supplies, however, even if all the darkroom 
chemicals are provided.

Just some thoughts.

Alexandria
From: bjs@RUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Barry Sherman)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Blown it again
Date: 12 Nov 92 20:06:01 GMT
Reply-To: bjs@RUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Barry Sherman)
Followup-To: rec.photo
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

dave budd writes:

>Well after asking for advice on photographing jugglers back in April, I had 
>a chance to try it out last Saturday, and I blew it AGAIN.  Overexposure of 
>all the on-stage stuff.  some of the rest isn't too bad.  Oh well, it's only 
>money.


Mr. Budd appears to have discovered the meaning of life (as a photographer
anyway):

  Stretch out your left hand ahead and a little to the left.  Now imagine 
  that your boss places into it an envelope containing your pay.  Now 
  transfer that envelope to your right hand, also outstretched.  Now 
  transfer that envelope from your right hand to that of your photo 
  supplier.  Do not retain any of the contents for yourself.

  See?  Isn't that simple?  Our reason for being in one simple metaphor.  ;-)
  ;-)

>        Practice random kindness and senseless acts of beauty

This is nice.  I like it a lot.

Barry


--


|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Barry Sherman, Amdahl Corp.  | PROGRAM: n. A magic spell cast over a com-  |
| bjs@ruts.ccc.amdahl.com      | puter allowing it to turn one's input into  |
|                              | error messages.  tr.v. To engage in a pas-  |
|                              | time similar to banging one's head against  |
|                              | a wall, but with fewer opportunities for    |
|                              | reward.                                     |
|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Amdahl, being a corporation, is a legal fiction.  Therefore it is incapable|
| of holding, let alone expressing, opinions.  Unfortunately, this has been  |
| said of me as well.                                                        |
|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
From: sft@tamarack.cray.com (Steve Tucker)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: CLOSE-UP FILTERS, PENTAX LENS, GRAY CARD For Sale
Date: 9 Nov 92 16:52:33 GMT
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Originator: sft@tamarack


 > Pentax SMC Pentax-M F2 50mm Lens ("M" series)
    For the K-1000 or Pentax "M" series cameras - MX, ME, MG, etc.
    Pentax "K" mount
    In excellent condition - includes front & rear lens caps
    $40 plus shipping

 > Hoya Close-Up Filter Set (49mm)
    1X, 2X, & 4X filters - An inexpensive way to get into
    "macro" photography
    In excellent shape.
    $15 plus shipping

 > "Last Gray Card" - This is a very sturdy plastic
    card with a matte gray surface on one side and a
    white surface on the other.
    4" x 5" - New
    $5 (I'll pay postage)

 If interested or want more details, please contact me
 directly. (Please don't post a reply, as I don't read
 the net that often and might miss your reply....)


-- 
 Steve Tucker  :^)                                    o
 Cray Research, Inc.  (My views, not theirs....)   _ /__,              K
 e-mail:  sft@cray.com  __________________________(_) /(_)__ T     C     E
 "You Can't Be Too Strong...."                                  U           R __
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: hdevine@alfred.carleton.ca (Heather Devine)
Subject: photomanipulation
Summary: Looking for examples of pictures that have been manipulated.
Keywords: photomanipulation examples
Organization: Carleton University
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 21:46:26 GMT

I am looking for specific examples of photographs that have been
manipulated and used as a picture of reality.  For example, the
National Geographic photo which moved the pyramids closer together for
a horizontal rather than vertical photo.  I need examples that date
back no farther than two years, and I prefer those that have been used
in newspapers.

If you have any information that could add to this topic, I would be
very pleased to hear from you.

Sincerely, Heather C. Devine
From: ychen@hubcap.clemson.edu (Eric Chen)
Subject: For Sale: Nikon N2000 & Yashica FX2
Organization: Clemson University, Clemson SC
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 01:29:47 GMT


Two 35mm SLR cameras for sale:
 
1. (a)  Nikon N-2000 SLR body: TTL, built in motor drive, auto film load, 
        dual program, automatic & manual (1-1/2000), DX auto film speed 
        setting (ASA 12-3200), and other fuctions of major cameras.
        (I am selling this camera for my friend, his camera is near mint
	condition)
   (b)  Prospect (=Sigma) Zoom 70-300 mm, f/4.5-5.6 lens (6 months old) for
        Nikon 
2. Yashica FX-2 body with Yashica standard lens (50mm, 1:1.7)
	Shutter speed: 1/1000 - 1 sec
	Fully mechanic camera w/built in light meter
	Depth of field view bottom
	ASA setting 12 - 1600

Nikon N2000 body: $200; Prospect (=sigma) lens: $80; Yashica body and
lens: $90.
 
The buyer pays shipping.

Thank you

-- 
Eric Chen
(803)654-8817 S.C. area
ychen@hubcap.clemson.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: nyarko@ee.ualberta.ca (David Nyarko)
Subject: Samsung AF zoom 1050 comments
Organization: University Of Alberta, Edmonton Canada
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 03:04:11 GMT

Hi,
Could I have any comments on the Samsung AF zoom 1050
camera as compared to other zoom cameras in the same
range. (ie optical quality, exposure accuracy etc.)
			David
email address: nyarko@bode.ee.ualberta.ca
From: atomas@geloser.login.qc.ca (J-F Bissonnette)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Stained Negatives?
Date: Mon, 09 Nov 92 20:30:39 EST
Distribution: world
Organization: Gentleman Loser System, Montreal/Qc/Cdn

poole@bnr.ca (Thomas Poole) writes:

> I just developed my second set of B&W negatives and although
> my first set was very good, this set has a very pale yellow/
> brown stain on the negatives. It doesn't cover all the 
> negatives but it does appear on about half of the roll of
> 20. There are a couple of stains about the size of a thumb
> print and a few more that run for about three or four shots
> down the middle of the negative. The stains are very light,
> definitely not light leaks, and seems to be yellow.
> 
> Can anyone tell me what these stains are?
> 
> I used Ilford 400 Delta 35mm film, developed for 8 min in Ilford
> developer, 30 seconds in the stop bath (instructions called
> for 10 seconds) and 1 minute in the Ilford Paper Fixer (guy
> at the store said Paper fixer would work fine for film). Wash
> for 10 minutes and then 30 seconds in Kodak PhotoFlo. 
> The first time I did developing everything turned out fine
> so I do not believe the water was the cause. As far as I
> know everything remained constant.
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> Tom...
It's a fixing problem... well it depends of your fix mixture.
If you used it pure (and not 1:3), it might be the answer to 
your question, the stains are due to the concentration of 
the fix.  In this case fix it again with 1:3 fixer (the same)
but it is probable that some stains will stay there.

If you had 1:3 dilution then your film was underfixed, the
time with 1:3 fixer is 4 minutes (Ilfofix).  Fix it again to 
prevent further damage.

J.F.


--
atomas@geloser.login.qc.ca
Gentleman Loser System -- Montreal, Qc, Canada
From: kbb0@harvey.gte.com (Kevin Burke)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Questions about Kodak's Polymax paper
Date: 5 Nov 92 20:20:56 GMT
Distribution: usa

Having seen the "Professional Paper" boxes at Hunt's today I'm curious
as to what Kodak's Polymax B&W paper is. I also noticed boxes of Polymax
VC filters which claimed grades of -1 (!) to +5. So, I guess Polymax is
variable contrast but beyond that I'm clueless.  Has anyone used this
stuff or can refer me to a magazine review?

Thanks in advance, Kevin	kbb0@gte.com
From: munger@fnalo.fnal.gov
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: 127mm lens Mamiya RZ67
Date: 13 Nov 92 18:36:43 GMT
Organization: Fermi National Accelerator Lab
NNTP-Posting-Host: fnalo.fnal.gov

I wish a slightly longer focal length standard lens for the Mamiya 
RZ67 that is comparable to my 100mm Sonnar on my old Hasselblad 500C/M.

Is the 127mm closest in angle of view?

Thanks.

Robert Munger
Fermilab, Batavia, Il
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jpglori@srv.PacBell.COM (John P. Gloria)
Subject: Re: Incredible blue sky
Organization: Pacific * Bell
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 20:20:41 GMT

In article <24120@alice.att.com> ark@alice.UUCP () writes:
>In article <1992Nov9.031341.8468@umr.edu> tonyp@cs.umr.edu (Tony Phillips) writes:
>
>> My question is, how in the world did the photographer get the sky to be that
>> dark, yet the balloons to be so bright?
>
>A polarizing filter will do amazing things to the sky if you're aiming in the
>right direction with respect to the sun.  Also, where was the picture taken?
>Could it be the Albuquerque Balloon Festival, by chance?  If so, Albuquerque
>is at about 6,000 feet elevation and very dry; the sky there is much darker
>than it is at sea level in damper climates.
>-- 
>				--Andrew Koenig
>				  ark@europa.att.com
>
I have taken pictures (slides) and obtained some very blue skies
without any polarizers with my 20mm f/2.8 Canon lens. I have 
also obtained very blue skies using just the plain old
UV/sky-light filters using my 35mm lens and 24mm lens, all
shooting with slide file (usually Velvia, sometimes 64Chrome).
-- 
  ---------  John Gloria - jpglori@sysengr.pacbell.com	--------	
"I do not think that winning is the most important thing. 
I think winning is the only thing."    - Bill Veeck
Newsgroups: rec.photo,rec.travel,rec.backcountry
From: wchang@phage.cshl.org (William Chang in Marr Lab - CSHL)
Subject: Re: Yosemite weather in January
Organization: Cold Spring Harbor Lab, Long Is New York
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 23:19:13 GMT

In article <1992Oct30.133339.17381@bbt.com> beauvais@bbt.com (Dan Beauvais) writes:
>What is the weather like in Yosemite in mid January?  Typical day and
>evening temperatures, windchills, snowcover?  Is it rainy?

If it's raining in San Francisco, it's probably snowing in Yosemite.
I used to hop on the Amtrak, change to bus at Merced, in order to
catch the snow...
-- Bill Chang (wchang@cshl.org)
From: bjs@RUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Barry Sherman)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Zeiss Ikonta CLA
Date: 5 Nov 92 21:01:57 GMT
Reply-To: bjs@RUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Barry Sherman)
Followup-To: rec.photo
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

Jim Cathey writes:

>Mechano-hackers unite!  You have nothing to lose but your pride (and
>money).  Don't start with your new Hassy, though, unless you want to
>lose plenty of both in one shot.

Hmmm.  High-adrenalin tinkering.  It's a concept.  ;-)

Barry
--


|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Barry Sherman, Amdahl Corp.  | PROGRAM: n. A magic spell cast over a com-  |
| bjs@ruts.ccc.amdahl.com      | puter allowing it to turn one's input into  |
|                              | error messages.  tr.v. To engage in a pas-  |
|                              | time similar to banging one's head against  |
|                              | a wall, but with fewer opportunities for    |
|                              | reward.                                     |
|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Amdahl, being a corporation, is a legal fiction.  Therefore it is incapable|
| of holding, let alone expressing, opinions.  Unfortunately, this has been  |
| said of me as well.                                                        |
|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au
Subject: Re: Starting a bathtub darkroom
Organization: Curtin University of Technology
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 14:06:05 GMT

In article <1992Nov3.145407.5875@b30.ingr.com>, doug@jhawk.b30.ingr.com (Doug Bradley) writes:
> In article <1992Nov2.221807.28912@u.washington.edu>, busey@stein.u.washington.edu (Thomas Busey) writes:
> |> I'm thinking about starting a home B/W darkroom over my bathtub.  Does anyone
> |> have any suggestions about how to build the counter, what equipment to include 
> |> (besides the enlarger :)  and what mistakes not to make?  Also does anyone 
> |> have a price estimate for such an endevor?  I have some darkroom experience, 
> |> so I'm familure with the equipment.
> 
>   Depends on the layout of the bathroom, but the easiest (and cheapest ;-)
> thing to do is simply make the door light-tight and set the enlarger on the floor.
> Hang the safelight on the shower curtain rod and put the trays in the tub.

Put a safelight bulb in the light fitting if need be.

Make a top for the bath that is about 80% of the length of the bath to put the
trays on. I used dev, stop fix1 fix2 and rince, then droped the prints in the
bath 1/2 full of water to wash.

> If you sit on the floor between the enlarger and the tub you can keep the dry
> side (enlarger) dry and wet side (tub) wet. It's probably not real comfortable
> for long printing sessions but sure got the job done for me at home.

I used to sit the enlarger on a chair. I could then use the floor for big
prints by swinging the head arround...

~Paul
From: sdm@pyramid.Corp.Sun.COM (Scott Mann)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Good B/W Portrait Photographer?
Date: 10 Nov 1992 22:07:11 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.  Mt. View, Ca.
Distribution: ba
Reply-To: sdm@pyramid.Corp.Sun.COM (Scott Mann)
NNTP-Posting-Host: pyramid.corp.sun.com


I'm posting this for a friend...

Does anyone have recommendations for a Black & White
portrait photographer in the SF bay area?

E-mail responses and I'll post a summary.

Thanks!


--


...Scott
From: howard@hasse.hal.com (Howard Gayle)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Hasselblad PC Mutar & 110 F/TCC lens?
Summary: If you've actually tried it, please send me email.
Date: 9 Nov 92 15:21:33 GMT
Reply-To: howard@hal.com (Howard Gayle)
Organization: HaL Computer Systems, Inc., Campbell, California
NNTP-Posting-Host: hasse.hal.com

Has anyone tried to use the Hasselblad PC Mutar with the 110mm
f/2 F or TCC lenses?  What was the result?  Please send email
directly to me; I'll post a summary if response warrants.  I'm
only interested in actual experiences, not speculation.  I
already know this is not a combination that Hasselblad
recommends.
--
Howard Gayle
HAL Computer Systems, Inc.
1315 Dell Avenue
Campbell, California 95008
USA
howard@hal.com
Phone: +1 408 379 7000 extension 1080
FAX  : +1 408 379 5022
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: michael9@cs.mun.ca (Michael Sullivan)
Subject: Re: Sharpness
Keywords: Sharp
Organization: CS Dept., Memorial University of Newfoundland
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 11:49:55 GMT

tklai@acsu.buffalo.edu (Tobysze K. Lai) writes:

>In article <1992Nov5.023325.20009@cs.mun.ca> michael9@cs.mun.ca (Michael Sullivan) writes:
>>  The problem is, my pictures aren't coming out as sharp as I would like.
>>Is the sharpness of a photo strictly a function of lense quality?  Or am
>>I not doing something quite right?
>>
>>  I'm using a Pratika 35mm MTL-5 SLR, with a Tamron 70-210 f3.8, the exact
>>model number I am not sure of.
>>
>Where did you take the pictures to develop?  One-hour photo store or you 
>develop them by yourself?  One possibility is, if you bring the film to those
>photo finishing labs, the sharpness of the pictures  may vary, depending on
>each indiviual store.  Even the sharpness of the pictures may vary from the 
>same negative printed by the same store.

  I don't think this is the problem.  I have all my negatives developed by
Scot Foto ( a big mail order photo-finishing chain across Canada), but I
also have had reprints made by Sooters (a professional lab) and Tooton's
(an expensive lab) that specializes in Kodak materials.  All with the 
same results.

  I would imagine that developing the negatives should be a standard process,
thus everyone should produce about the same results.


>+------------------------------------+----------------------------------------+
>| Toby Sze K Lai                     | Internet: tklai@acsu.buffalo.edu       |
>| State U. of New York at Buffalo    | Bitnet: v080qrqk@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu |
>+------------------------------------+----------------------------------------+
-- 
|uunet!garfield!michael9|'"Proof denies faith and without faith I am nothing,"|
|michael9@odie.cs.mun.ca| says God.  "But you have given us proof," says      |
|POB 756,St.John's,Nfld.| man, "Therefore you do not exist. QED." "Oh, my,"   |
|A1S 1G8                | says God, and disappears in a puff of logic.'       |
From: moreaux@litsun22.epfl.ch (Michel Moreaux)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Large format: roll-film backs compatibility
Date: 11 Nov 92 18:42:46 GMT
Reply-To: moreaux@litsun.epfl.ch
Distribution: rec
Organization: Laboratoire d'informatique technique


Sinar sells _expensive_ roll-film holders. They are expecially
attractive since they can be inserted in any international backs like
any usual plan-film holders. The only problem is their $$prices$$
which is $$extremely$$ $$interesting$$ ... if your bank account is
well stocked.

I have heard on the net that Calumet also produce such roll-film
holders but at a lower price.

I have a good accasion to buy Toyo roll-film holders. In their
brochure, it is written that their roll-film holders can be inserted
in the back on their camera. In fact, their roll-film holders look
similar to those of Sinar and Calumet. In their brochure, it is shown
that their film-holders can be inserted in the back of their cameras.
I phoned the Toyo importer in Switzerland and they told me that they
"think" that the Toyo roll-film holders are not compatible with "new"
(???) Sinarbacks and compatible with Arca-Swiss backs. In fact, I
think that they dare not to say that they do not know ! So, here is my
question: are Toyo roll-film holders compatible with Arca-Swiss backs
(international back) ? They look soooooo thick ....

_Michel Moreaux
--
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Michel Moreaux,                           | "Ceux qui ne savent rien en savent
Ecole Polytechnique Federale de Lausanne  |  toujours tout autant que ceux qui
Departement d'Informatique                |  n'en savent pas plus qu'eux"
Laboratoire d'Informatique Technique      |                  P. Dac.
EL-Ecublens                               |___________________________________
CH-1015 Lausanne                           
Phone # : (21) 693-46-72,   e-mail : moreaux@litsun.epfl.ch
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: asadigh@mothra.syr.EDU (sadigh)
Subject: Nikon 75-150mm/f3.8 Series E - your opinion
Organization: Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 92 16:08:08 EST

Hi everyone,

I am about to buy a used Nikon 75-105mm/f3.5 series E lens.  I would
like you folks to share your experiences about this lans with me.  
Its focal length is temptimg me, but Series E is notorious about its mechanical
performance.  Please feel free to either post or send email.              
Regards,

Beejan
From: robert@sys.sweden.dg.com (Robert Claeson)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: The color developer in the E-6 process
Date: 9 Nov 92 08:32:57 GMT
Organization: Data General AB, Akalla, Sweden

I have a question regarding the color developer step in the E-6 process.
Namely, what happens if the processing time in the color developer is too
short? Too long? The instructions are quite clear on what the result will
be when the time is too short or too long in the first developer or the
bleach-fix, but it doesn't mention anything like that for the color
developer.

Note that I'm currently using a 3 step kit intended for professional use,
not a 6 step kit.

-- 
------------------------------ END OF MESSAGE ------------------------------
Robert Claeson                Internet: robert@sys.sweden.dg.com
Data General AB                         robert@sys.dg.se
Box 28                             CEO: robert@sys.sweden.dg.com:dg-smtp
S-164 93 KISTA                     Tel: +46 (0)8-92 55 00
Sweden                             Fax: +46 (0)8-751 36 22
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: news@walter.bellcore.com
Subject: Re: Canon EOS 20-35 lenses?
Reply-To: jchen@wind.UUCP (Jason Chen)
Organization: Bellcore, Morristown, NJ
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 92 19:47:16 GMT

Sigh! You must be reading AAA's or Cambridge's ad. The net wisdom is
don't even bother to call them if you want to keep your good mood.

"Lenses for Canon EOS" is a semantically correct, but deceiving phrase.

Jason Chen
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: mattw@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu (Matt Ward)
Subject: Litheon batteries (Lithium)
Summary: What is the avaliability of these batterys?
Keywords: battery
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Distribution: na
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1992 00:28:43 GMT

I have heard that Lithium AA cells may hit or have hit the US
market, under the name Litheon?  Does anyone know where they
can be obtained, via mail order or walk in?


-- 
			Matt Ward
			mattw@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu
			University of Illinios
			CCSO
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: sli@athena.mit.edu (Sheung L Li)
Subject: Moving up to 6x7 (Mamiya)
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 15:40:34 GMT

Could anyone tell me the difference between the various variants of
the RB67, and the RZ67.  Is the rotatable back on the RZ really useful
in practice?

Any experiences with favorite lenses would be appreciated.
Have there been any significant changes in lens design over the
years?

Should I be looking at anything else?

sli@athena.mit.edu

Newsgroups: rec.photo