HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: thomas@bit.UUCP (Thomas Walter)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: How to bypass cylinder hear temp. sensor?  (81' 200SX)
Summary: Datsun Fuel Injection - seperate cold start valve?
Date: 25 Aug 92 22:39:02 GMT
Article-I.D.: bit.413
Organization: BIT, Portland, OR



tmcdonal@ringer.cs.utsa.edu (Tom McDonald) writes:

> Looking at the old one, I found this to be the
>head temp. sensor.  I pulled it out and it's about 1 1/2" long that
>goes straight into the head.  At startup it sends a signal to the computer
>about how warmed up the engine is.  As the engine gets hotter, it's
>resistance goes almost to zero.  No one at Nissan seem to know just
>how important it is other than "yeah, it seems like you need it".

If I remember correctly '81 200sx used the LE Jetronic style system.

IS there a cold start enrichment valve, that is controlled by this
temp sensor? The later systems did not use an extra sender, or even
the enrichment solenoid for cold start, but modified (lengthened) the
duty cycle of the injecters.

If it is used only for the cold start enrichment, you could get away
with a dash mounted switch. You'd use a DPDT switch; the common contact
to the sensor wire, the fixed contacts would have different resistances
to simulate "hot" and "cold" resistances.

If is the ONLY temperature sensor, it really is needed. Not only used
for cold start, but also during the operation of the engine. The sensor
is read by an 8bit A/D converter, to help adjust how much fuel the engine
needs. 

Did you happen to notice what model year Nissan the engine came out of?

Best of luck,

Tom Walter				bit!thomas@cse.ogi.edu
Beaverton, Oregon

P.S. One of the Datsun 510 club members put the Z22 into his '72 510.
Engine installed, FI system in place, then called to ask about hooking
up the FI computer.
"Easy, just use the original harness"
"Uh, oh... you mean I should have kept it?"
Organization: Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 19:53:45 -0400 
From: Ken Zuroski <kz08+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: overheating

I have a Ford '86 F150 pickup. My wife was driving it today, and she did
not notice that the temperature gauge was creeping up. As she pulled into
our driveway (luckily then), the engine died and boiled over. I opened the
hood and looked inside--no coolant left in the radiator; oil level looked
good. I replaced the water/coolant mixture and cranked the engine again. It
started with no problem and seems to be running well. 

I suspect a leak in the cooling system, and figure that the coolant simply
ran dry. There is one other sympton that is confusing me, however. Now even
with a full radiator, whenever the truck is idling and I turn on the heater,
the air coming out of the heater remains cool until I rev the engine a bit--
then it heats up momentarily and then gets cool again. This is not the same
response that I remember before the engine boiled over. Then, the heater seemed
to heat up quickly even at idle and gave good constant heat output. 

Is this related, and, if so, what does it mean? How can I check for damage
to the engine due to overheating?

Thanks--

ken

---
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Ken Zuroski
Department of English
Carnegie Mellon University
Pittsburgh, PA 15213 USA
kz08@cmu.edu
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re:  Starter only works when cold
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 18:27:38 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 Might be you need a new battery. I had the same behavior, cleaned -n-
tightened everything, and so on, finally noticed that the battery 
voltage was dropping -at the terminals- to about 6V. Worse when hot.
New battery time.
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jgraham@bronze.ucs.indiana.edu (the End)
Subject: Running on Full Rich ? (carb. duty-cycle)
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 05:42:38 GMT

While I am thrashing with my elegant "electronic fuel control system"
on my 87 Charger, how much fuel efficiency will I loose by
disconnecting the M/C or "duty-cycle" solenoid and running on a full
rich fuel mixture all the time ? I run much better with it
disconnected, although I am hearing a lot of knocking on hard
acceleration.

Thanks,

Jim

PS. Would engine knocking on heavy acceleration be related to this
modification ? This model has a knock sensor that I imagine would
still function in the absence of the M/C solenoid - oxygen sensor
system. Might this indicate an overall problem in the EFC system, or
perhaps the knock sensor system is not very effective in the first
place ? This is the standard 87 Charger, no EFI, Turbo or A/C with the
Holley venturi style carb.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dtn@po.CWRU.Edu (Donald T. Noda)
Subject: Suspension, tire + shock questions
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio, (USA)
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 92 14:33:30 GMT


	I was wondering about a few things.  First, does the
wider tires have better traction?  What about in snow and rain?
I live in Cleveland--land of snow.  I am often traveling between
here and Long Island and being a college student, I have much to
carry.  Are there ways of making the load easier on my car.  I
notice that the rear sags with all the weight and 500+ miles
I feel is a long way to go like that.  Heavier shocks?  Any
recommended?  Lastly, I have a soft ride thus the performance 
of handling is not great.  My tires are wearing on the outside
edges (front only) I think because it can't deal with tight
fast turns that I like to take.  I have crappy tire on the
front too.  Is that a consideration?  Is there a way of
"tightening my suspension to improve handling?

	Sorry to be such a question box but I have been trying to 
get the most out of my car.  By the way it is an 81 Buick Regal.

	Thanks i advance!

		Don
-- 
           __    _______       _        |
      ----/  \  /__  __/  /\  / /------ |216-754-1981
    -----/ /\ \   / /    / /\/ /-----   |dtn@cwns4.ins.cwru.edu
 ------/_____/  /_/    /_/  \/----      |   
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: basit@nosc.mil (Default Trumpet User)
Subject: Service Manual for 72 Plymouths, wanted
Organization: NRaD
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 15:12:01 GMT

I have recently bought a '72 valiant which is in good mechanical condition.  
Before performing maintenance I would like to get my hands on a service 
manual.  I plan to rebuild the carb, adjust the tappets, convert to 
electronic ignition, etc.  So if anyone has a '72 Ply service manual to sell 
or any other suggestions please contact me via e-mail.

Thank you,

Basit, e-mail address syed@manta.nosc.mil.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: thos@suite.sw.oz.au (Thomas Cohen)
Subject: Re: '57 TR3 no engine go jap?
Organization: Softway Pty Ltd
Date: 27 Aug 92 22:24:35 GMT

In <7045.88.uupcb@chaos.lrk.ar.us> dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)  writes:



>-> I'll say it again.  IMHO, if you can't put up with what you percieve
>-> to be deficiencies of a vehicle's ORIGINAL equipment, perhaps that
>-> vehicle is something you would be better off admiring from afar,
>-> rather than something you should cobble up for your own selfish
>-> purposes.

> Selfish purposes, eh?  I've never heard it put quite that way before.

> There are very few automobiles that couldn't use a boost in the
>handling or horsepower department.  Just because the factory did it one
>way, doesn't mean it can't be improved.

This presumes that more is always better, which isn't really so.
Usually, part of the charm of an older car is its behaviour on the
road. This sometimes makes it impractical for use as an everyday
car (although my everyday car is 30 yrs old) but you can't change
what it is.

As I  have read several places, in the end we are just custodians of
the cars we run. If they are historically significant, it is not really
for us to decide to put a big-block chevy in place of the Bugatti engine
the car came with.  I have demurred several times from modifying some
of my cars because that would have made them non-original.
Obvioiusly your mileage may differ.


thos

-- 
thos cohen  				       |Softway Pty Ltd
 The best way to make a Japanese engineer wince|ACSnet:         thos@softway.oz
 is (when talking about an NSX) to say slowly  |UUCP: ...!uunet!softway.oz!thos
 'but its _not a Ferrari_ is it?' R.Bulgin, CAR|Internet:    thos@softway.oz.au
From: pshyvers@pyrnova.mis.pyramid.com (Peter Shyvers)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Unusual Tire wear - "scalloping", Why?
Date: 31 Aug 92 15:53:08 GMT
Reply-To: pshyvers@pyrnova.pyramid.com (Peter Shyvers)
Organization: Pyramid Technology Corp., Mountain View, CA
Originator: daemon@sword.eng.pyramid.com

In article <SFTPBHCS@cc.swarthmore.edu> stauffer@cc.swarthmore.edu (Glenn Stauffer) writes:
>I've noticed an odd wear pattern on one of the rear tires of my Toyota
>Celica that has
>caused the car to become excessively noisy.  The tire tread has worn so
>that it is scalloped
>against the direction of rotation - the tread is raised in the direction
>of rotation and
>then dishes in.  Each tread section appears to be worn like this.  The
>car was returned to
>the dealer who found nothing wrong - at the time, I complained of
>excessive road noise, but
>hadn't recognized the tire wear.
>
>Does anyone have a clue why a tire would wear this way?  I'm trying to
>isolate the problem
>to a defective tire or a mechanical problem before the warranty runs out.
>
>Thanks

We were always schooled that it was bad shock(s).
From: tdng0812@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Exhaust Manifold Stud Removal
Date: 30 Aug 92 16:31:14 GMT
Article-I.D.: news.Btt1w3.8vr
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana


  

-- 
____________________________________

____________________________________
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: TDOPER35@ysub.ysu.edu (Dogger)
Subject: help! no heat in 1986 nova?
Organization: Youngstown State University
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 05:47:26 GMT

I have no heat in my 86 nova. i have changed thermostat, flushed system and
changed radiator cap. what else can i do?thanks.
 
DOGGER
From: mcostell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Malcolm G. Costello)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Unusual Tire wear - "scalloping", Why?
Date: 1 Sep 92 16:38:38 GMT
Reply-To: mcostell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Malcolm G. Costello)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.autos.tech, stauffer@cc.swarthmore.edu (Glenn Stauffer) writes:
!I've noticed an odd wear pattern on one of the rear tires of my Toyota
!Celica that has
!caused the car to become excessively noisy.  The tire tread has worn so
!that it is scalloped
!against the direction of rotation - the tread is raised in the direction
!of rotation and
!then dishes in.  Each tread section appears to be worn like this.
!Does anyone have a clue why a tire would wear this way?  I'm trying to
!isolate the problem
!to a defective tire or a mechanical problem before the warranty runs out.

My Dodge manual says scalloped wear is due to a lack of rotation of
tires or worn or out of allignment suspension. Its NOT a defective tire.
Do you rotate your tires regularly like every 10 or 15k miles? Since
its on the rear, can the rear be alligned? If not its probably a bad
shock absorber.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mack Costello <mcostell@oasys.dt.navy.mil> Code 1720.1       ?
David Taylor Model Basin, Carderock Division Hq. NSWC    ___/-\____
Bethesda, MD 20084-5000   Phone (301) 227-2431          (__________>|

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
From: msl30@ccc.amdahl.com (Michael Lucash)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Anybody know how to remove a windshield?
Date: 4 Sep 92 09:07:55 GMT
Reply-To: msl30@JUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Michael Lucash)
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

In article <183405@pyramid.pyramid.com> pshyvers@pyrnova.pyramid.com (Peter Shyvers) writes:
>In article <Bu0FKI.4wB@news.cso.uiuc.edu> emgg1058@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Matt Gaertner) writes:
>>
>>
>>As the title says, Does anybody know how to remove a windshield?
>>
>>Recently while loading some lumber into my car, a board fell and cracked my 
>>windshield. It has a nice spiderweb right in the center, about 9" in diameter.
>>The repair shop says that if I can provide one, it would only cost ~$55 for 
>>installation. My local junkyard is filled with escorts ( mine is an '84 ) but 
>>I've heard that removing one intact is pretty tricky.
>>
>
>When I replaced the windshield on my wife's old (Mitsubishi) Dodge Colt
>(maybe a '78?) *removing* the windshield was a bigger pain than installation.
>I remember sitting in the passenger compartment *kicking* out the windshield...
>
When we had to replace the windshield on one of our cars we used a length of
piano wire and two blocks as handles. We put the wire between the glass and
window frame and used it like a saw to cut through the glue.  It took a while
and a little messy but we were able to get the window out without breaking it.

It might help if you took off some of the interior trim pieces around the  
windshield so they won't get glue all over them.  



              Hope this helps
                   Mike
From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Diesel "algae"
Date: Wed, 02 Sep 1992 20:19:02 -0500

 VM> I was recently told that algae of some sort can grow in fuel tank of a 
 VM> diesel

Strange but true. The algae grows in the layer of water that collects at the
bottom of a diesel fuel tank; it is fed by various organic contaminants that
precipitate out of the fuel. See your M-B dealer parts dept. for a fuel
conditioner that will kill it.



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: Pre-luber summary & Oil Changes
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 92 06:57:16 GMT

Paul Welch (paulw@hpspdla.spd.HP.COM) wrote:
: 
: Many folks questioned the basic logic of installing a pre-oiler.  Some
: felt that just regular oil changes and good car care should be plenty
: to get 60-100k out of a motor.  And, some said that the wear I was 
: trying to prevent was rarely the ultimate cause of engine failure.
: Point well taken.

More like 200,000 miles, IMHO.

: Here's just a little more background on why I brought this up in the 
: first place:  I have two vehicles in particular that this might be
: a good idea for.  First, there is my Saab 9000 Turbo.  Saab recommends
: that you let the engine idle for 20 to 30 seconds after parking the
: car before you shut the engine off, to allow the turbo to cool.
: I'd be interested to know if this is a theory or if they have 
: ACTUAL DATA that shows some benefit here (I'm skeptical as to 
: how well one could cool a turbo with engine oil that is already plenty
: hot).  But, if you could circulate that oil for more like 5 minutes,
: especially if your not continuing to add heat with the engine running,
: now it starts to make sense.  The benefit of having this system in
: place for when you go to start the car is really secondary, in this
: case.

OK, it's not so much the cooling of the turbo as the lubrication of
the bearings.  At full boost, the SAAB turbo (and others, I assume)
is going up to 300,000 RPM(!)  If you just stomped it before you park,
and the thing is spinning away and you take away the lubrication, the 
shaft, which rides on a rather thick film of oil, will just sink to
the bottom (with no oil pressure) and start wearing the shaft and
the bearings.  The idea behind letting the turbo spool down isn't a 
SAAB things specifically, but they are the only ones I've seen who
mention it in the owner's manuals, perhaps because SAAB owners 
expect their cars to last forever.

I have a friend with about 400,000 miles on a '83 900T, original
turbo, never pulled the valve cover on the engine either.  He changes
his oil (mobil 1) every 3,000 miles, and spools the turbo down for 30
seconds when parking.  If it works for him, it's good enough for me.

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.
hinzd@picard.med.ge.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mike%jim.uucp@wupost.wustl.edu (Mike Suter)
Subject: Re: Pressurize Oil Before Starting ?
Organization: BITS, St. Louis, MO
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 20:35:43 GMT

>The automobile companies manufacture products that will appeal to 
>the primary consumer.  Things like appearance, convenience, resale 
>value and the like are paramount.   Durability, while a laudable 
>attribute, is not as important to the folks that purchase new vehicles.  

This may be, but that still doesn't explain why other automakers
which, we have been led to believe, care about their cars and owners
in the long run (ie, MB) aren't putting them on their cars.

Also, it may even benefit even the car company interested in only the 60K
mile life of the engine to include a pre-oiler if the car has a turbo
(I have heard of many turbos going before 60K miles) to circulate
cool oil through the engine/turbo after the engine is shut down.

>trouble getting 60-80,000 miles on engines without one.  (I can see the 
>rumor mill grinding out things like "They weren't able to keep rod 
>bearings in the new x.x liter engine and had to resort to a preoiler 
>just to avoid excessive warranty claims.")

Reminds me of the extended oil-change intervals (I can drive 15,000
miles between oil changes on THAT car, and only 7,500 on THIS one.
Therefore, THAT car must be better!)

Mike
-- 
mike%jim.uucp@wupost.wustl.edu
From: jsw@umiacs.umd.edu (Jeff Webber)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Timing Belt Broken?
Summary: 1985 Toyota Corolla GTS
Date: 23 Aug 92 17:23:29 GMT
Organization: UMIACS, University of Maryland, College Park, MD 20742

My Corolla died yesterday.  Just died.  When you try to start it
it makes a very different sound then normal.  Like the engine
has no compression.  I don't think I here anything like major
engine parts hitting together (valves and pistons).

Car has 98,500 miles, 4A-GE engine (same as MR2 used to have)
Rear wheel drive.

Questions:  Does the 4A-GE engine have enough valve-piston clearance
to survive a timing belt failure without major engine damage?

	Does this sound like the timing belt broke?

Thanks in advance.



-- 
Jeff Webber /   U of Maryland Institute for Advanced Computer Studies
path: uunet!mimsy!jsw  phone (301)-405-6746 jsw@umiacs.umd.edu  DoD #243
1965 Ford Mustang Convertible                     1988 Honda Hawk GT 650
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: car ramps for Mustangs
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 92 09:27:25 GMT

bohdan.l.bodnar (bohdan@cbnewsd.cb.att.com) wrote:
: I have a 1986 Mustang which has a very low body + air scoop.  The ramps I
: currently use are too high for this car -- any work done beneath the car has to
: be done with jack stands.  Does anybody know where I can get car ramps that
: will fit this car?  I currently have the stuff that's sold in Giant and Trak
: stores (Tru-Cut?) and also tried the stuff that Sears has -- none work.

How about jacking the car up, sliding the ramps under the wheels, and working
on it that way?  Slower, but it's free!  You would just be using the ramps as
jack stands, basically, but I feel better when the car is on ramps with the
wheels chocked anyway.

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
hinzd@picard.med.ge.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: spark plug nightmare & warning.....
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 92 10:09:38 GMT

Shawn E Thompson (v087mxgb@ubvmsd.cc.buffalo.edu) wrote:
: 
: I *had* a 1987 Pontiac Grand AM SE Turbo (OHC, MFI). This had an
: Al head, unfortunately. Excessive warping caused two successive
: head gasket failures. These manifested themselves as coolant
: from the water jacket entering the chamber (#2). This would short
: everything and blow the coil, EI, etc.

Aluminum heads are not, inherently, a problem.  Perhaps this design of head
has a H2O cavitation problem, causing uneven cooling.  Also, perhaps it was
not properly torqued (or retorqued).

: I added some silver solder to plug what I thought was a small
: imperceptible radiator leak.OOPS!!! This *welded* the #2
: spark plug into the Al head - broke in half at the threads.

If you mean radiator "stop leak", this garbage should ONLY be used if you are
stranded and cannot get to repairs.  It WILL clog up any small leak, or any small
water passage, like in your radiator and heater core.  Unfortunately, they 
don't mention this on the package.
 
: Beware the above remedy it can be *very* troublesome.

Yup.  Sure can.
 
: Shawn E. Thompson                         | Project Engineer/Mgr  (716)891-3375

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.
hinzd@picard.med.ge.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: BMW computers
From: james@koko.csustan.edu (Jonas Grumpy)
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 92 21:06:21 GMT
Organization: CSU Stanislaus

In article <1992Aug31.170748.6844@geac.com> billb@geac.com (Bill Bain) writes:
>
>   I have an 83 BMW 528e, and was thinking about modifying the programming
>in the ignition/timing computer.  Any one have any thoughts on this?
>
>   Specificaly, I'd like to advance the timing a bit, and smooth out the
>rev limit cutoff.
>
>Bill Bain

Dinan eng is the folks you want to talk to. They have replacement hipo
eproms for socketed ecu's I think 83's have perm mount eproms. They can
do your ecu if you send it in. I think power goes up quite
a bit. i also remember a company called veloz that did it for 325e
that is basiccally the same engine as yours. Their system also changed the
cam to pump up power to ~160hp.
-- 
28940375892743587293475982734985723984 bottles of beer on the wall
28940375892743587293475982734985723984 bottles of beer..
take one down, pass it around
28940375892743587293475982734985723983 bottles of beer on the wall......>>>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rudis+@cs.cmu.edu (Rujith S DeSilva)
Subject: Re: What's a good one??? was Re: CLUB Story
Organization: School of Computer Science, Carnegie Mellon
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 15:02:36 GMT

In article <1992Sep3.204936.3943@mcnc.org> brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks)
writes:
>Best just to accept the fact that life is a risk, and the best you can do
>is minimize your risk by doing sensible things. You can reduce your risk on
>many things, but you can never get your risk to zero.

Okay, so you can't reduce the risk of your car being stolen to zero.  Perhaps
it's time to take a different tack.  How about increasing the risk taken by
the prospective thief in attempting to steal your car?  The risk right now is
getting a little jail-time, multiplied by the chance of getting caught, and
that risk seems way too low right now.  I think the car owner should increase
the risk directly.

The details are hazy, but I think I read in this newsgroup about a guy in
Poland who put a wooden board, with nails hammered through it, on the car seat
and covered it with a thin cloth.  Unfortunately, he was told to desist - I
can't remember whether he was convicted of anything.

What about less extreme measures, such as rigging the alarm system to release
some tear gas two seconds after the car starts moving, or spraying the driver
with paint?  The priorities are to:

(1) Not do any permanent damage to the thief
(2) Not cause any accidents
(3) Be very safe against accidental triggering

Rujith de Silva.
Carnegie Mellon.