HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: 00dklyon@bsu-ucs.uucp
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: RA4 processing...
Date: 13 Apr 92 15:17:06 GMT
Article-I.D.: bsu-ucs.1992Apr13.101706.6209


In article <serge.702675885@tdsb-s>, serge@mais.hydro.qc.ca (Serge Oligny) writes:
> 
> Hi everyone !
> 
> 
> Yesterday I bought an RA4 chemical kit (Uniprint) and a pack of Kodak
> Ultra paper (25 8x10).  I plan to try it out next weekend.  After opening
> the boxes yesterday night, I realise I missed the following info.:
> 
>   .  The chemistry instruction sheet provide processing time only for
>      one specific temperature (40.5C).  There is no time table for
>      different temperature.  If anyone with experience in RA4 could
>      suggest processing times for temp. range from 30C to 40.5C, I would
>      really appreciate to know.  It is far easier for me to adjust time
>      than to fiddle with small temperature adjustment.


	I have had 2 years of color courses at Ball State and we used
	ra4.  I am not sure about thier even being different times
	for different temps.  My prof was very adament about keeping the
	temp at 90 +/- 5 degrees.  I also learned that a cooler temp
	causes the print to lean towards blue.

	I also think you would find it easier to use trays rather
	than a drum because at 90 degrees the paper only goes in
	the developer for 45 secs and in the blix 45 secs.  I found that
	it was too short a time to mess with drum developing.
> 
>   .  After searching in the paper enveloppe, I could not find any data
>      sheet (as usually included in all B&W paper pack I have bought up to
>      now).  I was expecting some basic info. about a 'starting' filter
>      pack for various brand of color negs.  I realise I can find out by
>      trial and error but I would appreciate if someone could indicate me
>      a 'general' starting filter pack for the following brand of color
>      negs:
> 
>        . Kodacolor Gold,
>        . Kodak Ektar (25 & 125)
>        . Fujicolor
>        . Fuji Reala
>        . Konica Impressa (50)
> 
> 
> If anyone with RA4 home processing experience care to share a few tips, I
> would appreciate.  I am equiped with simple print drums (w/motor base) and
> a homemade tempering bath.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Serge Oligny
> (serge@mais.hydro.qc.ca)
> -----------------------
> 
> --
> ______________________________________________________________________________
>                                       This is a personal opinion that have
> serge @mais.hydro.qc.ca               nothing to do with my employer.
> ______________________________________________________________________________
From: barryg@hplsla.hp.com (Barry Gunn)
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1992 14:43:33 GMT
Subject: Re: Illegal photograph postings (was: Your police at work for you!)
Organization: HP Lake Stevens, WA
Newsgroups: rec.photo

>/ hplsla:rec.photo / icicle@cats.ucsc.edu (Andrew Christian Haas) /  7:43 pm  Apr  3, 1992 /
>
>In the interests of having my two cents worth......
>
>So I propose a FREE NET! I propose FREE INFORMATION! I propose a network that is cooperatively run, like Usenet, where people are allowed to live up to their    creative potential, and do not have to cower and hide, worrying whose toes they are stepping on. I advocate slowly but surely taking the power away from those  who would stifle that creativity. Taking away the power from the war-mongers    and spoilers who would have war and environmental disaster, death and disease   our way of life while profiti


ng from our destitution and pain.
>   
>We have the very vehicle for informational freedom in Usenet.
>----------
Anarchy may not be the best form of government, but it's better than no
government at all.
Anarchists unite!
LET'S STORM THE NET!!!




NOT!
From: ark@alice.att.com (Andrew Koenig)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: schlock (was amateur film processing)
Date: 12 Apr 92 15:59:07 GMT
Article-I.D.: alice.22552
Reply-To: ark@alice.UUCP ()
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories, Liberty Corner NJ

In article <3830228@hpldsla.sid.hp.com> tonya@hpldsla.sid.hp.com (Tony Arnerich) writes:

> Ditto. Calumet is a damn good store: honest, quick, excellent stock, excellent
> advice and service.

> Opinion Mode ON: When you look at all the hassles you get at the schlock
> outfits for a measly few percent off the money price, you realize how much you
> pay in stress, time, and inconvenience.

Not all the mail-order discounters are schlock.

This newsgroup runs a mail-order survey once in a while; the places
that get the best ratings in that survey are right up there with Calumet
in terms of service.  Moreover, there are some things that Calumet simply
doesn't sell.
-- 
				--Andrew Koenig
				  ark@europa.att.com
From: astro@iris1.oceanroutes.ns.ca (ASTRO)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Filters for View Cameras
Date: 10 Apr 92 17:07:01 GMT
Organization: NSTN Network Operations Centre, Nova Scotia, Canada

dykes@gcox.ucdavis.edu (Jim Dykes) writes:


>  I have a question for the view camera users on the net.  What type of
>filters do you use and how do you attach them?

>  I own a Bender camera with a couple of lenses (210mm & 90mm).  Right
>now, I hold a 'P' series Cokin filter in front of the lens
>whenever I need a filter, but for long exposures this is often
>unpractical.  I'm not sure I want to commit any more money to the Cokin
>filters because I can't always find the colors I want (yellow-green, deep
>red and CC).  I'll probably go to gel filters, but I want to know if
>there are any other options.  Thanks.

>Jim Dykes
>jedykes@ucdavis.edu


I use Sinar series 100 CC and CTC filters.  In Canada they are $35.00
each and are excellent quality.  That price is competitive with Calumet's
good quality polyester filters.  THe down side is the holder system which,
although very good and usable on any camera made as well as a view, it very
expensive (225 for some machined metal).


If you are using a lens of any quality you owe it to yourself to get
decent filters....

The advantages of piolyester filters is that they are of high optical
quality, but at the same time more durable than glass and cleanable
compared to gels.

brian
From: bartb@hpfcmgw.FC.HP.COM (Bart Bobbitt)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 01:03:58 GMT
Subject: Re: Olympus lenses - how good are they?
Organization: HP Fort Collins, CO
Newsgroups: rec.photo

I think the Olympus lenses are the equal of Canon ones.  There may be a few
lens/aperture types between them where one may be better than the other's
equivalent, but that's probably to be expected.  I doubt you would notice
any real difference between them for 99% of photo situations.


Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: mcginnis@graphis.essc.psu.edu (David McGinnis)
Subject: Looking Howard Laws
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Wed, 08 Apr 92 16:23:37 GMT

I'm looking for an old photography professor of mine named Howard Laws.
He taught in the Jounalism dept. at Iowa State in the early 70s and later
moved to Sacremento State.  I contacted folks at Sacremeto and they said
he was not in their faculty phone listings.  Does anyone know where Dr.
Laws is and how I might contact him?  Thanks for the help.
From: bjs@uts.amdahl.com (Barry Sherman)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Which meter reading to take?
Date: 9 Apr 92 18:56:41 GMT
Followup-To: rec.photo
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

Carl Madson writes:
>
>This is sorta apropos...
>
>In the latest American PHOTO magazine, they show various shooters' favorite
>spots -- including the Monterey Bay area, CA, for diving shots. David Doubilet
>includes his shot of a harbor seal, saying "they're so friendly.. and you don't
>need to worry about metering, because they're a perfect 18% gray.."
>
>[Dump the gray cards, dudes! You need a harbor seal!  ;-*]


While they're certainly much cuter, I'm not sure that I have room for a seal
in my bag.  Can they walk far?  Are they strong enough to help carry my gear? 

Barry



-- 


|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Barry Sherman, Amdahl Corp.       | "Any fool can face a crisis - it's     | 
| bjs@ruts.ccc.amdahl.com           |  this day-to-day living that wears you |
|                                   |  out." - Anton Chekhov                 |
|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Amdahl, being a corporation, is a legal fiction.  Therefore it is incapable|
| of holding, let alone expressing, opinions.  Unfortunately, this has been  |
| said of me as well.                                                        |
|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: s_sakela@oz.plymouth.edu (Scot Sakelarios)
Subject: wanted XE-7
Reply-To: s_sakela@oz.plymouth.edu (Scot Sakelarios)
Organization: Plymouth State College - Plymouth, N.H.
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 92 03:50:43 GMT

Newsgroups: photo.rec
Subject: wanted Minolta XE-7
Expires: 
Reply-To: s_sakela@oz.plymouth.edu (Scot Sakela)
Followup-To: 
Distribution: usa
Organization: Plymouth State College - Plymouth, N.H.
Keywords:
	I'm a student photographer with a small budget.  Where would I
look for an used Minolta XE-7.  I'm looking for this particular camera
because it will accept my corrent MD lenses.  This is the only camera
I know of that has a match needle system with mirror lock up and motor
drive compatability.  Could anyone help me by recomending places where
to search for the XE-7 or something simmular? Please send Email if
possable to s_sakela@oz.plymouth.edu ,
Thanks
-Scot


Newsgroups: rec.phot
Subject: wanted XE-7
Expires: 
Reply-To: s_sakela@oz.plymouth.edu (Scot Sakelarios)
Followup-To: 
Distribution: nh
Organization: Plymouth State College - Plymouth, N.H.
Keywords: 

Newsgroups: photo.rec
Subject: wanted Minolta XE-7
Expires: 
Reply-To: s_sakela@oz.plymouth.edu (Scot Sakela)
Followup-To: 
Distribution: usa
Organization: Plymouth State College - Plymouth, N.H.
Keywords:
	I'm a student photographer with a small budget.  Where would I
look for an used Minolta XE-7.  I'm looking for this particular camera
because it will accept my corrent MD lenses.  This is the only camera
I know of that has a match needle system with mirror lock up and motor
drive compatability.  Could anyone help me by recomending places where
to search for the XE-7 or something simmular? Please send Email if
possable to s_sakela@oz.plymouth.edu ,
Thanks
-Scot
From: stmwang@hubcap.clemson.edu (Sam Wang)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Printing-out papers
Date: 12 Apr 92 21:44:50 GMT
Organization: Clemson University

bullis@polari.com writes:

>Linda Conner prints on POP, and I asked her where she got her paper.  Unfor-
>tunately, I can't remember the answer, but there is a manufacturer.  Perhaps
>it is the Chicago reference mentioned in another posting.  Her prints are 
>very rich and warm; it is certainly worth following the trail and finding 
>the source if this interests you.
> 
>Larry Bullis

>.
There is a French company still making POP. It's distributed
by Chicago Albumen Works in this country.

OK Larry. Is there much difference between the old Kodak Studio
Proof and making your own Salt Print using fixed out photo paper?
Figure you could answer that.

Sam

-- 
Sam Wang  Visual Arts  Clemson University  stmwang@hubcap.clemson.edu
---------------------------------------------------------------------
From: johnm@hpmcaa.mcm.hp.com (John Mosbarger)
Subject: Re: Nikon AF F2.8 70-200 Lens - Is it worth it?
Organization: HP Cardiology Business Unit - McMinnville, OR
Date: Tue, 07 Apr 1992 19:27:20 GMT

bose@soupfin.cs.indiana.edu (Bhaskar Bose) writes:
> I currently have a Nikon AF F4.5 70-210 lens.  I have been looking at
> the autofocus F2.8 70-200 lens from NIKON and I am wondering is it
                     ^^   
> worth it.  Is the lens that much better than my current lens or will 
> the difference be marginal?
> 
> Thanks in advance, and Best Regards.
> -- 
> Bhaskar Bose                                   (812) 855-3652
> bose@iuvax.cs.indiana.edu                      Hardware Methods Laboratory
>                                                Department of Computer Science
>                                                Indiana University

     I can't comment on the 70-210, but consider me a *very* satisfied user
of the 80-200.  The speed and size are worth it for me.  The only drawback
is the lack of a tripod mounting collar, but Kirk Enterprises sells a
mounting 'frame' for about $140.  Comparatively speaking, the 80-200 is
not all that expensive.

--
John Mosbarger
HP McMinnville, OR
johnm@hpmcaa.mcm.hp.com
From: sbonds@jarthur.claremont.edu (007)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Uniformity of development -- how good?
Date: 13 Apr 92 01:26:19 GMT
Organization: Harvey Mudd College

nareid@imf.unit.no (Helge Nareid) writes:

>In article <1992Apr9.172153.13560@research.nj.nec.com> dan@research.nj.nec.com (Dan Ruderman) writes:
>>	Has anyone experimented with b&w films to test large-scale
>>	processing uniformity?  I will be using 120 film and 
>>	tank processing.  Does it help to use a more dilute developer
>>	for a longer time?  Is a density fluctuation of .01 considered
>>	good or bad?

>The best remedy, in my opinion, is to use a pre-whetting bath. I use an
>extremely dilute solution of Photo-Flo (1:1000 in distilled or de-ionized
>water is a good starting point) for about half a minute (not critical). It
>is important that there is no foam formation in the Photo-Flo solution.

Be careful using photo-flo as a pre-wetting agent.  Sometimes I have had it
congeal on me, forming sticky chunks on the film.

A better idea, IMHO, is to use plain water as a prewetting agent.  This works
almost as well as photo-flo, but you run no risk of contaminating your
developer.  Be sure to agitate the water presoak.

  -- 007
-- 
 000   000  7777 | sbonds@jarthur.claremont.edu
0   0 0   0   7  |----------------------------------------------------------- 
0   0 0   0  7   |             Just say NO to Quantum Mechanics
 000   000   7   |  
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jaywb@juliet.caltech.edu (Bromley, Jay W.)
Subject: Kirlian photography
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.40    
Keywords: this is the trip! the best part!
Organization: California Institute of Technology
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1992 08:48:00 GMT

alright then, 
so have any of you heard of Kirlian photography as pioneered by Harry 
Oldfield?  If so, let me know!


########################## Making time in a low rent highrise, no place
jay bromley, space cadet | to go downtown, crushing crucifixion, particles
jaywb@juliet.caltech.edu | harmful descent, take a shot and hide
From: yoshi@nocusuhs.nnmc.navy.mil (D M Yoshikami)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Mood question
Date: 9 Apr 92 13:11:04 GMT
Organization: National Naval Medical Center

In article <1992Apr01.180642.83393@watson.ibm.com> dsouza@centaur.watson.ibm.com () writes:
>I am currently taking Intro. to Photography and have an assignment dealing 
>with the mood of a place.  For example, the
>hustle/bustle of a diner or the serene atmosphere in a place of worship.
>Unfortunately, I cannot use the above examples.
>I would welcome suggestions for other such scenarios that convey the mood
>of a place.

Perhaps, Irritation and Frustration a a government Agency (like the Department
of motor Vehicles after waiting in line), People who are mad at postal clerks
or just plain upset or in a panic when they send in their Incom Taxes (next
week).  There's often a bevy of panicky people filling out their forms at the
11th hour.  I would also like to include when someone gets sentenced in a 
courtroom but I'm not sure you can legally take pictures of that.

I would say one of the best things to do is to get a book (like the
_Family_Of_Man_) and really look at other people's photographs, especially
mood photographs.  Seriously, you can get a LOT of good ideas from other photos.
It's one of the BEST ways to learn.  The other is to shoot lots of film and make
lots of mistakes.  Don't worry, you wind up doing both anyways!!

Best of luck!

DY :-)


=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=+=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
D M Yoshikami  :-) ;-) :-) | Internet: yoshikami@usuhsb.ucc.usuhs.nnmc.navy.mil
May the Forth be with you! | Bitnet  : yoshikami@usuhsb.bitnet
***  !!xob X*NU V METSYS T&TA eht ni renosirp dleh gnieb m`I  !pleH  !pleH  ***
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=+=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: mira@eecg.toronto.edu (Mira Vojvodic)
Subject: Re: Any opinions on Polaroid's "ONE Film" ?
Distribution: na
Date: 8 Apr 92 04:04:42 GMT

Rich Chong <U41602@uicvm.uic.edu> writes:

>It's supposed to be an ISO 200 film. There's no magic about the stuff.
>It's purely a marketing ploy to the uninitiated or photographic
>simpleton. i.e. One who can't choose between all the different film
>speeds available. Imagine kodak or fuji making only 200 film...
>And advertising that it's the only film you'll ever need....
>now laugh the same way at "ONE Film".     rich chong

NOTE:  This posting is from a friend
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
DX code indicates that film is preset for ISO 200.

However, my experience with this product was more than disappoining.
Color saturation was miserable, contrast poor, granularity unbelievable
coarse, etc., etc.  In one word--garbage!

ivan
From: steveh@gator.rn.com (Steve Heininger)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: B&W Contact Prints
Date: 7 Apr 92 13:30:11 GMT
Organization: The Gator Public Access Unix Site

gle@l42bb.jsc.nasa.gov (glenn ellis) writes:

> Anyone have a cleaver suggestions on how to make bw contact prints without 
> an enlarger.  I've heard of some methods using picture frame glass and a 
> flash, does this work.  any suggestions?
> 
I don't know about using a flash, but I have had good luck just using an 
ordinary light bulb hung over negatives laid on the paper.  It takes some 
practice to get the exposure times down, but this comes quickly.

--
Steve Heininger
The Gator
219-289-0777/317-251-7391
internet: steveh@gator.rn.com
uucp: ..!uunet!nstar!steveh
From: ka1gt@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (robert.m.atkins)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Other brand EDIF
Date: 7 Apr 92 16:39:54 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: AT&T

In article <1992Apr7.003531.24617@a.cs.okstate.edu>, ong@a.cs.okstate.edu (ONG ENG TENG) writes:
> After getting the APO Sigma 400/5.6, over the weekend and putting one roll
> of Ektar 1000 thru it, I compared it with the prints from the 600/5.6 Nikkor
> EDIF (also with same film), I couldn't see much difference, except the
> Nikkor seems to have slightly better color (4"x6" though).  The Sigma has 
> both low dispersion glass and internal focusing, and very compact.

Using Ektar 1000 and looking at prints! That's no way to test a lens. I
suggest you do some reading of Lepp's articles on lens and film testing.
His Natural Image Collection Vol II has details. It's $25 from him at
(805) 528-7385. Unless you do it right (Velvia+HEAVY tripod+mirror lockup)
you are wasting your time. On the other hand if you normally shoot without
a tripod using Ekatar 1000, then you don't need the quality of the Nikkor
and you might as well use the Sigma.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: gle@l42bb.jsc.nasa.gov (glenn ellis)
Subject: B&W Contact Prints
Organization: nasa-jsc
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1992 20:42:58 GMT

Anyone have a cleaver suggestions on how to make bw contact prints without 
an enlarger.  I've heard of some methods using picture frame glass and a 
flash, does this work.  any suggestions?

________________________________________________________________________
gle@l42bo.jsc.nasa.gov - "Does the dog have the buddah nature?" - Muh!
________________________________________________________________________
From: jay@metran.UUCP (Jay Ts)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Shooting Neon Lights
Date: 9 Apr 92 01:24:57 GMT
Organization: Metran Technology, Tampa, Florida

MSPERKO@kentvm.kent.edu (Mike Sperko) writes:
: Does anyone have experience shooting neon lights?

Yes.  Go ahead and use daylight film.  Velvia works well for me.

: There will be some regular lighting but the signs
: pretty well light up the whole room

What kind of "regular light" is that?  If you mean tungsten or fluorescent,
I suggest you turn it off.  If the signs are as bright as you say, they
will probably produce an interesting effect.  Some daylight, or carefully-
supplied electronic flash wouldn't hurt to fill in what the signs do not
illuminate.

: Exposures?

I suppose that depends on the brightness of the neon lights you have.  I
have had good luck photographing outdoor display signs.  For these, a
starting exposure of 1/250 sec at f/8 (for ISO 50 film) catches the sign
but leaves the background dark.  If you can meter off the neon-lit background,
by all means do so, and then bracket between the two exposures by full f/stops.

How did I get 1/250 at f/8?  I simply walked right up to the neon tube and
pointed the camera at it from a few inches away, and metered off the out-of-
focus image of the tube.  It's a hack, but it works.

- Jay Ts
From: madson@unix.SRI.COM (Carl Madson)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Which meter reading to take?
Date: 8 Apr 92 19:55:32 GMT
Organization: SRI International, Menlo Park, California


This is sorta apropos...

In the latest American PHOTO magazine, they show various shooters' favorite
spots -- including the Monterey Bay area, CA, for diving shots. David Doubilet
includes his shot of a harbor seal, saying "they're so friendly.. and you don't
need to worry about metering, because they're a perfect 18% gray.."

[Dump the gray cards, dudes! You need a harbor seal!  ;-*]


		--Carl Madson, SRI International, Menlo Park, CA
From: michael@sequent.com (Michael Squires)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: B&W Contact Prints
Date: 7 Apr 92 17:38:16 GMT
Article-I.D.: sequent.1992Apr7.173816.25295
Distribution: na
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems, Inc.


gle@l42bb.jsc.nasa.gov (glenn ellis) writes:

>Anyone have a cleaver suggestions on how to make bw contact prints without 
>an enlarger.  I've heard of some methods using picture frame glass and a 
>flash, does this work.  any suggestions?

Just to add my $0.02 - I've done this (6-8 years ago) with AZO paper, just
as some of the other posters have said. I loaded my contact printer (I
actually bought the frame with the glass hinged to it, with the inserts
for the 35mm strips - Paterson?) in the light, went into the bathroom,
turned out the light, put in the paper, closed the glass front, and
then just turned on the ceiling light for awhile (7-15 sec?). I think that
I put in a smaller bulb than normal, also (25W?). Anyway, after some
experimentation it worked fine. I've also done this with regular kodak
polycontrast II RC paper with good results (maybe this is the one I
shrunk the light bulb for?)

						Good luck,
						Michael Squires
From: ejh2p@faraday.clas.Virginia.EDU (TTHHWWAACCKK!!!)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Stick in the mud (was Re: Nikon FA, FE2, FE feature summary request)
Date: 14 Apr 92 03:15:57 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: University of Virginia

In article <5360748@hplsla.hp.com> andyc@hplsla.hp.com (Andy Cassino) writes:
>grant@eecg.toronto.edu (Grant Goodes) writes:

[Stuff deleted]

>I wonder if there's just a few of us stick-in-the-muds, or if Nikon (et al)
>are failing to service a LARGE number of customers.

I am another stick-in-the-mud: I love my F2 and probably won't get
anything else except an FM2 for the higher flash sync. and shutter
speed.  If I upgrade, it will most-likely be to medium or large format.
-ed-

>    %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
>    % Andy Cassino                                       %
>    % Hewlett-Packard - Lake Stevens Instrument Division %
>    %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%


--
## Ed J. Hutchison (ejh2p@faraday.clas.virginia.edu)