HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: info on jetta
Date: 16 Nov 1992 23:45:11 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, squiec@jec325.its.rpi.edu (Craig L. Squier) says:

>In article <1e96t4INN7kq@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer) writes:
>>
>>In a previous article, squiec@jec321.its.rpi.edu (Craig L. Squier) says:
>>
>>>In article <1e4te6INN58m@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer) writes:
>>>>
>>>>In a previous article, ereddy@morgan.ucs.mun.ca (Edward Reddy  MI) says:
>>>>
>>>>>Experiences? Well, let me begin. First to go on my 85 JettaGL was a
>>>>
>>>>>summer. Then 2 solid lifters had to be replaced. The timing belt
>>>>                ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~HUH???..didn't they go hydraulic in 85???
>>>>
>>>>>this spring. She needs 4 more solid lifters, Flywheel, and someone to
>>>>                          ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>>>>again..i thought they went hydraulic..or are you saying that the once
>>>>hyds are now solid?..just curious..
>>>>
>>>>>Sound pesimistic? Nope. I love my car. It handles like a dream. Smooth
>>>>whew!!..had me worried!
>>>>
>>>  Once again the Drew-Meister is right. After 84' All the lifters are hyd.       on Jettas and Golfs.(Not sure about Scir's or Cabs) you can tell this
>>>  by the engine code and Bentley manual(also buy oil pump pressure but
>>>  that's another story)
>>>  Hizzah Hizzah Drew.
>>>  PLEASE ATTEMPT TO BE ACCURATE WHEN EXPLAINING THINGS< OTHERWISE YOU
>>>  SOUND LIKE A GENERAL MOTORS MECHANIC( Zing!!!! ).
>>> -Craig
>>is that last bit(in caps) meant for me? tell me what was unclear, and i
>>will try to do bbetter..thanx for telling us how to find out!
>>DREW
> Not refering to you, friend. Just that people who post don't always have
> their info right. And once again for those who can't pay attention.
> A2 Jettas are all HYDRAULIC...........No If's ands or Buts about it.
> If a mechanic charges you for a lifter adjustment, then grab a heavy object
>  and slug him with it, then get back your $$$, then find a new mechanic...
>
ok..maybe i will not post the nasty letter i just wrote asking you to keep 
the "better than thou" shit out of here...just as i thought...
thanx for clarifying it
DREW 
-- 
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
?????????????????????????????????-----whatever!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: "tom neumann" <tom.neumann@canrem.com>
Subject: info on jetta
Reply-To: "tom neumann" <tom.neumann@canrem.com>
Organization: Canada Remote Systems
Distribution: rec
Date: 20 Nov 92 20:51:41 EST


squiec@jec325.its.rpi.edu (Craig L. Squier) writes:

CL> Not refering to you, friend. Just that people who post don't always have
CL> their info right. And once again for those who can't pay attention.
CL> A2 Jettas are all HYDRAULIC...........No If's ands or Buts about it.

There _IS_ one big if: _IF_ it's not a diesel. Some 85 (and maybe
86) Golf (and I'm pretty sure) Jetta diesels were maufactured with
mechanical lifters.

Tom Neumann
---
  DeLuxe 1.25 #350  Try a Volkswagen
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: pz@keps.kodak.com (Paul Czarnecki)
Subject: Re: How to replace broken CV joint boot?
Organization: Kodak Electronic Printing Systems
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 16:02:26 GMT

In article <1ep9llINN6aq@fido.asd.sgi.com> thk@tyres.asd.sgi.com (Tom Kong) writes:
>Just noticed yesterday morning that the inner boot on the right
>side of my 86 gti was broken, and there wasn't any grease
>oozing out, so I haven't any idea how long I've been driving
>it that way, but I noticed no peculiar noises.  The outer boot
>doesn't seem to be in great condition so I figure I should
>replace that too.
>[...]
>Thanks for any advice.

Try replacing the whole half-shaft assembly.  I'm putting new ones on
my Mazda and at the dealer the half-shaft with 2 CV's was $100 cheaper
than buying the 2 CV's separatly.  A rebuilt assembly was even less.
On the mazda it was fairly simple to pop the inner one out of the
trans axle and not too tough to get the outer one off the hub.  Mazda
reccomends a special puller tool, I just used a hammer to bang it out.

					pZ

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: c.oneill@trl.oz.au (Chris O'Neill)
Subject: Re: Keeping Your Watercooled VW cool.
Organization: Telecom Australia Research Laboratories
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 23:47:00 GMT

In article <1e4a23INNkjr@fido.asd.sgi.com> thk@sgi.com (Tom Kong) writes:
>In article <1992Nov14.213324.1738@wuecl.wustl.edu> christos@wucs1.wustl.edu
(Christos Papadopoulos) writes:
>>In article <8c65TB1w164w@cellar.org> blu@cellar.org (Dan Reed) writes:
>>>
>>>         Project AutoHack #004, Keeping your watercooled VW cool!
>>> 
>>>          For VW Jetta][/Golf, can be modified to fit any other
>>>                           late watercooled VW.
>>> 
>>>The Problem - Watercooled VWs are cooled by an electric fan.  This fan
>>> 
>>>The Solution - Wire up a simple 12V 30Amp relay to the fan.  Find a wire
>>>               that is "hot" when the car is on (turns fan on), then
>>>               "cold" when the car is off (turns fan off).  One simple
>>>               "hot" wire I found was the ignition coil.  The could
>>>               should have (+) and (-) shown on the "face" of it.
>>> 
>>>               This hack is totally 100% reversible.  No stock parts are
>>>               damaged or modified in anyway.
>>> 
>>[lots of stuff and schematics deleted]
>>
>
>
>There seems to be a common belief that it is better to run the engine at
>cooler temperature, hence we see 160F thermostat on the market, and various
>schemes such as the above to allow the engine to run cooler.
>
>Perhaps someone knowledgeable can explain why there is such a need.  I would
>assume that the factory knows what is best.  My understanding is that running
>the engine at higher temperature improves its efficiency, and by running
>cooler than designed, piston ring to bore clearence may not be optimal.

A more general question: why is there such a range of thermostat opening
temperatures between different cars?  Obviously, the designers of cars with low
thermostat temperatures thought there was something more important than
maximizing engine efficiency.

Chris O'Neill
Telecom Australia Research Labs
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: c.oneill@trl.oz.au (Chris O'Neill)
Subject: Re: Keeping Your Watercooled VW cool.
Organization: Telecom Australia Research Laboratories
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 03:43:55 GMT

In article <1992Nov17.000650.8471@wuecl.wustl.edu> christos@wucs1.wustl.edu
(Christos Papadopoulos) writes:
>In article <1992Nov16.234700.5188@trl.oz.au> c.oneill@trl.oz.au (Chris
O'Neill) writes:
>>A more general question: why is there such a range of thermostat opening
>>temperatures between different cars?  Obviously, the designers of cars with
low
>>thermostat temperatures thought there was something more important than
>>maximizing engine efficiency.
>
>        The thermostat opening temperature is not the only factor determining
the engine
>operating temp. The placement of the thermostat is crucial too. A thermostat
placed
>at the coolant inlet to the engine (near the water-pump) will see lower
coolant
>temperature than one placed at the coolant oulet (in the upper radiator hose).
>Assuming that both thermostats are rated for the same temperature, thermostat
A
>will keep the engine at a higher temperature than thermostat B, because it
will
>not open as much for a given engine temp.
>        If you agree with the above logic, then this explains the difference
in
>thermostat temp ratings in different cars.

It would if thermostat temp rating depended on just the location of the
thermostat.  But most cars have the thermostat near the outlet and with these
the thermostat temp rating varies from car to car.

Chris O'Neill
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: eu507dac@pts.mot.com (DOUG CHRISTENSEN X3915 P6818)
Subject: Re: Timing belts and 16v engines
Reply-To: eu507dac@pts.mot.com
Organization: Paging and Wireless Data Group
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 20:35:46 GMT

In article 110@mipps.myapc.com, haskins@mipps.myapc.com (Robert D. Haskins) writes:
>I was told by a reputable service manager that the timing belts of VW 16-valve
>engines need to be changed at 60k miles.  Has anyone had a timing belt go on
>them this soon?  The service manager indicated that the belt is spec'ed only
>to 60k miles.  I would think that VW would spec it for more like 100k miles.
>
>Is this guy telling the truth?  The vehicle in question happens to be a '90
>Passat, but he indicated that it was the same for all VW 16-valve engines.
>

Better believe it.  16V heads go for about $1000.00 bare.  If the belt breaks,
consider the head gone.  The belt is relatively cheap insurance and you should
see some improved performance.  Armed with a Bentley manual, you may want to try
changing it yourself.  It's kind of a pain with all the belts you need to remove.
You may want to replace those also.

I got about 15 races and 70K miles before I did mine, but I consider myself
lucky.

Doug Christensen,  SSB Scirocco

     _____
   _/_|__|\__
  | _ |61| _ \
 <-(_)----(_)-^       "When I'm racing, I'm alive.  Everthing else
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^    is just waiting."  Steve McQueen, Le Mans.
From: amiller@almaden.ibm.com (Alex Miller)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Keeping Your Watercooled VW cool.
Date: 16 Nov 1992 11:00:19 -0600
Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu

Running the fan all the time would lengthen the time it takes
for your engine to reach normal operating temperature - during
this time your performance will suffer and you'll pollute more.

Super-cooling an engine, i.e. running a 160&degree. thermostat
may keep contaminants in your engine oil which are supposed to
evaporate and get reburnt in your engine (this is what the pcv
valve is for.)  This is no problem for racing, since you'll
certainly change the oil after each race, but for 3,000 miles I
street driving I think it's bad.

My street VW has a "normal" 195&degree. water thermostat and a
dual speed fan.  My cooling reserve comes from a 25 row Earl's
oil cooler and a few feet of AN-8 aeroquip hose connected via a
sandwich-type oil thermostat.

The factory temperature gauge in my '83 GTI is pretty silly.
One of these days I'm going to bend the pointer so that
"normal" is mid-scale, and put some calibration marks for
190-210-230.

Alex
amiller@almaden.ibm.com
From: msirota@ee.rochester.edu (Mark Sirota)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Shoulder belts for rear seats in Golf,GTI?
Date: 19 Nov 92 22:15:15 GMT
Reply-To: Mark Sirota <msirota@socrates.ee.rochester.edu>
Organization: University of Rochester Department of Electrical Engineering

In article <BxzCJH.wL@umassd.edu> rgolen@UMASSD.EDU writes:
> You can put shoulder belts on the rear in an early A2 without all that
> much trouble.  ...  Mount the reel for the shoulder belt set where the reel
> for the rear seats are.

Ah, good thought, Ric.  It hadn't occurred to me that you don't need to put
the retractor (reel) in the factory location, which is on a piece welded to
the wheelwell behind the seat.  The only problem with your solution is that
when you lean forward, the belt has to slide along your torso and lap, since
the retractor is at the "wrong" end.  Or am I misunderstanding?

Mark
-- 
Mark Sirota - Systems Staff, College of Engineering and Applied Science
University of Rochester, Rochester NY
 Internet: msirota@ee.rochester.edu
 UUCP:     rutgers!ur-valhalla!msirota
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mgb5528@cc.utah.edu (MICHAEL G. BECK)
Subject: Re: Help! Put oil in a Bug, and it disappears!
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.4-b1  
Organization: University of Utah Computer Center
Date: 20 Nov 1992 13:16 MST  

In article <1992Nov20.170103.11314@nntp.nta.no>, BARANSKI@veamf1.nusc.navy.mil (Jim Baranski) writes...
{I have a 71' bug, which has recently developed a problem.
{ 
{I've been putting a *lot* of oil into it recently, like a quart every fill up!
{Yet it only smokes a little only when it starts up, and it isn't leaking.
{ 
{Where could the oil be going?  The front seal was just replaced, and I've heard
{that oil can leak into the clutch housing...

I had that happen to me a couple of years ago in '71 Super Beetle.  One sure 
way to tell if the oil is going into the clutch housing is if the clutch is 
slipping at high rpm's going up a hill.


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Michael Beck                    \        Sex is a three-letter word that 
 Michael.Beck@M.CC.UTAH.EDU        \    needs some old fashioned four letter
 MGB5528@CC.UTAH.EDU                 \  words to fully express its meaning.
 University of Utah                    \
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: kiviat@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Brian Kiviat)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: 87 Golf with idle problems
Date: 18 Nov 92 21:08:57 GMT
Reply-To: kiviat@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Brian Kiviat)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.autos.vw, BARBER@MAINE.MAINE.EDU (Wayne Barber) writes:
>I like my 87 Golf GL, but it has idle problems.  When I first start
>the car, the idling jumps from 1500 rpm down to nearly nothing and
>back again.  It continues to surge until either the car stalls out

I had the same problem with my '86 GTI 8V. I replaced the idle control
stabilizer valve. The problem disappeared instantly. The part aint cheap
but it takes 3 screws and 5 minutes to replace. I'm not sure if the
Golf fuel injection system is similar but I assume it is.

Good Luck,
Brian
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: bigfoot@sequent.com (Gregory Smith)
Subject: Re: VW Heater Cores (Was: info on jetta)
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems, Inc.
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 92 18:11:18 GMT

finnegan@invader.navo.navy.mil (Kenneth Finnegan) writes:

>In article <1992Nov16.214509.626@linus.mitre.org>, jdouglas@MITRE.org (Jason Douglas) writes:
>|> In article <SUMANA.92Nov13152416@hpcll32.0> sumana@0 (Sumana Srinavasan) 
>|> writes:
>|> > hi, I'm the new owner of a 86 Jetta (1.8 Litre gasoline, automatic 
>|> > ) and I'd like to hear about
>|> > experiences of other owners (particularly the bad ones). 
>|> > -sumana
>|> 
>|> Perhaps we can start a thread on Jetta / Golf heater cores ?!  The cars of 
>|> colleages at work have suffered this malady, and with winter upon us, you 
>|> should be aware of the problem.  VW has graciously offered to pay the 
>|> heater core replacement costs in 2 (out of 2) such incidents. 

>To any occasional readers out there, please be aware that VW has
>instituted an OFFICIAL recall program to replace the heater cores
>in "affected" cars.  Call VWUS if you have not received a letter
>about this recall, or if all else fails, call your local dealer.
>Do NOT pay a penny towards the work, even if your dealer tries to
>tell you that he has to charge you for an A/C service to do the
>work. (This happened to me TWICE! Do NOT pay it.)

>Anyone who paid to have the core replaced themselves can get reimbursed
>by VW provided you have accurate billing records.  Also, you will
>probably want to go ahead and have it replaced again, since the new
>cores are supposedly of a new design to prevent the problem from
>reoccuring.

>I'm very familiar with the problem and the program, because I am now
>on my FOURTH heater core.  VW has paid every time to have it fixed.
>We'll see how long this one lasts. (1.5 weeks old and counting!)

>Kenneth     . :: .::::
>finnegan@navo.navy.mil

Actually, I have had a POSITIVE experience related to the heater core.
I never had a problem with mine, but when I took my 1990 Jetta GLI
in for the 30K mile service, the service rep. at the dealer (Herzog-Meier 
in Portland, OR) told me about the heater core recall. Then he said that 
to replace the heater core for the recall they have to dump the coolant 
from the engine anyway, so they DEDUCTED the cost of the cooling system 
service from the cost of my 30K mile service, saving me $$!

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: bernie@metapro.DIALix.oz.au (Bernd Felsche)
Subject: Re: Gti Starting
Organization: MetaPro Systems, Perth, Western Australia
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 92 09:52:33 GMT

In <1dnrmrINNjgf@aludra.usc.edu>
   mferdows@aludra.usc.edu (Mehrzad Ferdows) writes:

>	I'm not much of a mechanic, but I have a quick question:
>	My friend has a GTi 8v and when he wants to start his car, as
>	soon as he turns his ignition, the car starts, but on my
>	Gti 16v, it takes the car a little while longer to start.
>	is this a problem I should check out, or is it just because
>	of the different engines? appreciate any help, thanx.

Different engines and especially fuel injection systems. The
8v's mostly have Digifant (electronic) injection (especially
the later ones). 16v's have K-Motronic of K-Jetronic which
is mechanically controlled.
-- 
+-----+ Bernd Felsche                     _--_|\  #include <std/disclaimer.h>
| | | | MetaPro Systems Pty Ltd          /      \ bernie@metapro.DIALix.oz.au
| | | | 328 Albany Highway,              X_.--._/         Fax: +61 9 472 3337
|m|p|s| Victoria Park, Western Australia 6100  v        Phone: +61 9 362 9355
From: amiller@almaden.ibm.com (Alex Miller)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Dynamat
Date: 20 Nov 1992 16:25:09 -0600
Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu

In <milo-201192145418@mielo.dorm.rutgers.edu>
   milo@dorm.rutgers.edu (james mielo) wrote:

>      Reduction in noise was acceptable based on the price I spent. It does
> work but only if you're willing to go all the way. I can now hear the noise
> coming from the rear of the car. The sound is now directional. I assume
> this means I have deadend the sound in the front of the car.
>        Plus, the doors now shut like a mercedes and they feel heavier.

How much dynamat in total did you use?
I'll be applying this to a 1983 Rabbit GTI.

>     The doors are a must. The next best spot was the rear hatch cover (
> the shelf that move up and down when you open the hatch not hte hatch
> itself). It's flexable and adding the dynamat reduces the resonance from
> the trunk. Plus it's cheaper than dynamating the whole trunk.
>
>       The floors aren't the weak point nor is the fire wall. It's all the
> panels in the interior.

The limited DYNAMAT instructions I've seen say you have to clean
the receiving surface completely.  Do I really have to scrub and
de-grease de-wax everything?

Also, have you seen any mailorder places selling the aluminium
backed DYNAMAT.  I thought I could put this under the hood - where
some cars have a noise shield of some kind.

>       Warning on install, heat the mat up well. I put the stuff up in the
> summer and the adhesive stuck well by itself without heating. Now with the
> winter, some of the sheets are pealing off. I recomend a heat paint
> stripper. The electrical one by black & decker speeded things up for me.

How about just a 1500w hair dryer.  Will it just take longer than
a heat-gun or will it not work as well.

cheers,

Alex Miller
amiller@almaden.ibm.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: lkinsell@unix2.tcd.ie (Liam Kinsella)
Subject: diesel Jetta
Organization: Trinity College, Dublin
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 12:46:17 GMT

I have a slight problem on my `88 1.6 diesel Jetta. There is a line of
grey on the underside of the bonnet that shouldn`t be there.
The streak is on the right hand side of the bonnet about 6 inches in
from the side and runs the length of the bonnet. It seems to come from
just behind the radiator so I think that the hose to the resovoir is
blocked and that when the engine heats up the coolant justs sprays all
over the bonnet. The thing is that the streak is only on the bonnet and
there is nothing on the engine itself.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: ereddy@morgan.ucs.mun.ca (Edward Reddy  MI)
Subject: Re: info on jetta
Organization: Memorial University of Newfoundland
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 11:36:18 GMT

Well, this is an interesting question...
 
I have hydrolic lifters (but their solid). I asked the dealer about my
lifters (because I wanted to replace them). They told me they were
hydrolic lifters. So, I went to my local garage, and they said they were
solid.
Owning a 85 Jetta, I am beginning to wonder. Do I get hydrolic? (As
mentioned before) or Solid? They were apparently changed to hydrolic. I
replaced two last year, and the seem preety solid to me (no pun
intended). 

Edwardo...
Organization: University of Maine System
Date: Wednesday, 18 Nov 1992 13:40:28 EST
From: Wayne Barber <BARBER@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: 87 Golf with idle problems

I like my 87 Golf GL, but it has idle problems.  When I first start
the car, the idling jumps from 1500 rpm down to nearly nothing and
back again.  It continues to surge until either the car stalls out
or I keep my foot on the pedal.  If the car has been running a while
there is no problem.  Now that the weather is colder, it's getting
worse.

Does anyone have an idea what the problem might be?   I'm reluctant
to take it in for service until I get some idea for where they should
start looking.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: neves@anchor.cs.colorado.edu (NEVES RICHARD K)
Subject: Passat warrantee work - gimme a break!
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1992 19:45:25 GMT


Our 24,000 / 2 year just ended.  Here is a list of the warrantee work
done to date:

rear axle replaced - grossly out of spec
idle switch replaced
throttle switch replaced
front grill repainted (out coating of paint peeled off)
clock replaced
1 window motor replaced
2 window regulators replaced
ventalation fan replaced
ventalation vent replaced
grounds at cylinder head tightened (came off assembly line loose)
washer jet replaced
door handle replaced
front (plastic) grill replaced
Windshield wiper arm replaced
passenger light casing replaced
foot/door panel replaced (kept popping off)
fuse box lid replaced
trunk lid adjusted (would hit body)
lots of service work to get rid of noises in dashboard
RY Recal (engine monitoring computer)

I have been to the dealer 20 times in the last two years (including
regular service visits).  My wife and I LOVE the car.  There is
nothing else like it for the money on the market. Nothing. But we are
concerned about future maintainance costs now that the warrantee is
up.

I'm dissapointed in VW.  This car was manufactured with poor quality
control.  My question is:  IS THIS NORMAL???  This was our first VW
and might be our last.

Thanks for any feedback,
Rich