From: tittle@ics.uci.edu (Cindy Tittle Moore)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs,news.answers
Subject: rec.pets.dogs:  Assorted Topics FAQ, Part II
Supersedes: <dogs-faq/misc2_721807216@athena.mit.edu>
Followup-To: poster
Date: 15 Dec 1992 18:59:45 GMT
Organization: University of California at Irvine: ICS Dept.
Expires: 28 Jan 1993 18:59:02 GMT
Reply-To: tittle@ics.uci.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: pit-manager.mit.edu
X-Last-Updated: 1992/09/26

Archive-name: dogs-faq/misc2
Version: 1.1
Last-modified: 25 September 1992

This is one (of ten) of the FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) Lists
for rec.pets.dogs.  It is posted on a monthly basis: updates,
additions, and corrections (including attributions) are always
welcome: send email to one of the addresses below.

The ten parts are all archived at pit-manager.mit.edu (18.172.1.27) in
the directory /pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq.  The files are:
introduction, new, health-care, medical-info, training, working,
AKC-titles, misc1, misc2, and references.  To obtain the files, first
try ftp to pit-manager.mit.edu and look under that directory.  If ftp
does not work from your site, then try the mail server: send email to
mail-server@pit-manager.mit.edu with

send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/introduction
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/new
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/health-care
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/medical-info
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/training
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/working
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/AKC-titles
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/misc1
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/misc2
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/references

in the body of the message (leave the subject line empty).  If you
don't want all of them, include only the lines of the ones you want.
You do have to repeat the path information for each file.

Changes are marked with |'s.  

IX.  Assorted Topics (Part II).

  A.  Owner Allergies.
  B.  Pet Doors.
  C.  Pet Identification and Theft.
  D.  Pet Insurance.
  E.  Pet Sitting and Kennel Services.
  F.  Record Keeping.
  G.  Removing Odors and Stains.
  H.  Separation Anxiety.
  I.  Showing and Breeding your Purebred Dog.
  J.  Travel and International Travel.
  K.  Vicious Dogs.
  L.  Wolves and Wolf Hybrids.



(Part II)
A.  Owner Allergies.

You can go to an allergy specialist and get shots to help you with
specific allergies.  This can be expensive, but worth it, especially
if you have other allergies as well.  They'll test you for the things
you're allergic to, and then give you periodic shots to help you
develop an appropriate immunity to them.

Different breeds may work for different people who have allergy
problems.  It depends on exactly what it is about dogs that causes the
problem.  Some people are allergic to the hair, but others are
allergic to the dander.  Still others are not specifically allergic to
dogs, but are allergic to things like dust and the dogs provide an
*additional* irritant that is sufficent when combined with other
allergens to provoke a reaction.  In yet other cases, people are
allergic to a dog *licking* them.  You must find out which is true for
your case.

Some people do well with Basenjis and Miniature Pincers and other dogs
with little or no coat.  Others do well with poodles and schnauzers
and airedales who have a different type of coat.  A lot of people do
well with Shih Tzus and Lhasa Apsos who, while very hairy, are
supposed to have hair much more like human hair.

This is VERY important: every dog lover with allergy problems needs to
spend some time with different breeds to find the one that doesn't
aggravate the problem.  

In many cases, bathing the dog frequently, cleaning the bedding,
vacumming and closing off your bedroom will help alleviate allergy
problems.  There is also a spray available that you put on the dog
that is supposed to reduce the amount of allergens they shed called
Allerpet/D Most pet stores carry the stuff, and the bottle has an 800
number you can call for more information.
 

B.  Pet Doors.

Some points:

  * Get one that has at least magnetic strips to hold the door shut.
    In colder climates, you might want to consider a "double door",
    i.e, the outer door must close before the inner one opens.  This
    would cut down on the drafts.
    
  * Size is deceptive.  Dogs don't really need as much space as you
    might think to get in and out.

  * Installation is usually very easy.  Some models fit into patio
    doors and are removable.  Make sure the one you get is lockable or
    blockable.  If the door is hollow-core, it is trickier, because
    then you have to insert a frame in the door for the pet door to
    attach to.

  * The wall between your garage and house is considered a 'fire wall'
    and you're not supposed to cut any holes in it.  In particular, it
    could make fire insurance claims tricky.  If you sell the house,
    you will have to fix the hole first.

  * Install the door in such a place as to make it impossible for
    someone to push something through it to open a door or window,
    even if they can't crawl through themselves.  Ideally, you should
    have some way of locking or disabling the door for times when you
    are gone, say on vacation.

Johnson pet doors are frequently recommended.  RC Steele stocks them. 
Another source is America's Pet Door Store (1-800-826-2871).

There exist electronic pet doors that are activated by a special
collar.  Most of these are for cats, but there are models for dogs up
to 110lbs.  These help keep unwanted animals from entering your house.
These are, of course, somewhat expensive.

Some dogs need coaxing to use the door.  Prop the door open and offer
a treat from the other side.  Don't try and push your dog through.


C.  Pet Identification and Theft.

There are several steps you can take to increase the chances of your
dog being returned to you if lost, or to decrease the chances of your
dog being stolen.

1.  Pet tags

By far the most important piece of information on your pet's tag is
your telephone number, including the area code.  Everything else is
just optional.  Some people do not like to put their dog's name on the
collar, as that can make it easier for a thief to coax your dog along
with its name.  The choice is up to you.  Attach the tag to your dog's
collar securely.  Do not use the "S" hooks -- many tags are lost that
way.  Use the keyring type of attachment, or better yet, have the tag
riveted onto the collar.

Of course, one problem with tags is that they are easily removed
simply by removing the collar.

2.  Tattooing
    
Get your dog tattooed.  Tattoos cannot be removed or lost.  This will
help identify your dog and get it returned to you (most animal
shelters will not destroy a tattooed dog).  It helps deter theft and
ensures that your pet will not wind up in a laboratory somewhere.
Your vet can give you pointers to someone who can tattoo your pet.  RC
Steele sells a do-it-yourself kit, worth considering if you have
multiple dogs.

Tattooing is an excellent way to protect your pets.  In fact, there
are animal science laboratories and vet clinics around the country
that sponsor low-cost tattoo clinics and tattoo "fairs."

Get the tattoo put on the inside of your dog's thigh.  This is much
harder to remove than one placed in your pet's ear.

You must get the tattoo number registered, or it isn't very useful in
locating you.  If you use the National Dog Registry, use a number
that will not change.  (Social security numbers are good.)  There is a
one-time fee for registering the number, and you can then register
other pets with the same number -- either free, or for a lesser fee
(call them on this).

So, tattoo: NDR XXX-XX-XXXX.  Certain breed registries require dogs be
tattooed with a litter number or registration number.  So you might
also add: AKC: XXXXXXX.  That way you fit both the AKC requirement to
have permanent ID on your dogs and you only have to register your SSN
once with NDR for $35 dollars and all your dogs can have the same
number on them.

Unfortunately, tattoos can fade over time.

3.  Microchip ID

An alternative, that is used in Canada, and increasingly in the US is
an injected microchip.The microchip contains a numbering system that
is accessed by many local animal shelters & vet hospitals in the San
Francisco Bay Area.  Each microchip has a 10 digit alpha/numeric code
that is assigned to you (or your kennel) and your pet. The code is
kept on file at Info Pet (US) [what is the Canadian counterpart?] on
computer and is readily available.  Some of the information that is
kept on file are extra emergency numbers to have contacted should your
pet be impounded or taken to an animal hospital due to injury or
illness. Your vet's name & number are also included along with any
important medical info about your animal. This is important for animals
that have life threatening medical conditions that need constant
treatment. With more animal shelters going to short holding times, you
may miss catching your animal at a shelter before it is put to sleep
or in some cases sold to an animal broker who most likely will resell
your pet to a research facility.

Not all shelters check for the chip, but increasing numbers are doing
so in the US.  There are no documented cases of medical problems
related to the insertion of the chip just under the skin.  Considering
that tattoos can fade over time, this is an alternative to consider.
It takes about 2 minutes to insert the chip and fill out the form.
After that, all you have to do is pay yearly dues. Info Pet may not be
active in your state yet, they have services in California and Oregon,
and most of the New England states with a few in the midwest area. You
can give them a call at 1-800-463-6738. [What are the Canadian
counterparts?]

4.  Thefts

Animal thefts do happen, this is a fear of pet owners everywhere.
First of all, if your dog is missing or stolen, you have a
responsibility to report it to the police.  They may not always be
able to do anything about it, but if they get several reports, then
they can justify putting some time on it.  Don't make the mistake of
thinking that you are bothering the police!

Call the shelters, call the local vets and tell them of your loss,
they can be on the lookout for your dog.  Most vets will take a
description of your dog and contact others in the area to keep an eye
out for it.  Put up flyers in the immediate area.  If your dog has
been tattooed or micro-chipped, it may show up shortly.


D.  Pet Insurance.

Pet insurance plans are typically accident policies, although some
also cover routine medical expenses such as worming and shots (or even
grooming) -- the latter are generally a better deal.

Between the deductibles and allowances, you may not get very much back
on an actual claim.  In several years of rec.pets.dogs, no reader has
come back with a favorable story on claim processing.


E.  Pet Sitting and Kennel Services.

1.  Pet Sitting

In some cases, you can find friends or neighbors willing to take care
of your pets while you are gone.  If you are using a professional
service as opposed to a friend or relative, try to find one that's not
just one person doing it but is a business that has several people
working for them.  When it's a business with people working for them
the owners of the business are more likely to expect their people to
do a good job and be responsive to people complaining about poor
service.  Watch out for the business changing hands.  

Check with the National Association of Pet Sitters.  Members must sign
a code of ethics and can be removed if there are complaints.  They can
give you a list of pet sitters in your area.  Their address is 632
Holly Ave, Winston Salem, NC 27101 and phone (919) 723-PETS.  Their
brochure includes their code of ethics, and includes a list of what to
look for in a reputable pet sitter; included in list below.

Ask the company if they're bonded or insured.  See if they'll send
someone more than once a day.  Ask for references from previous and
current customers.  Some will bring the paper and mail in and help
make the place look "occupied;" that's a plus.

Check the potential sitter for the following:

1.  Does the pet sitter furnish written literature describing services
    and stating fees?
2.  Does the pet sitter visit the home beforehand to meet with the
    client and pet to obtain detailed information?
3.  Does the sitter arrive on time?
4.  Does the sitter get along with your pet?  Does the sitter exhibit
    confidence and ease with your pets?
5.  Is the pet sitter courteous, interested, and well informed?
6.  Does the sitter have written references?
7.  Is the sitter willing to give you names and numbers of former
    clients for references?
8.  Does the pet sitter have a service contract which spells out
    services the pet sitter will provide and fees for doing so?
9.  Are the company and/or sitter in good standing with the Better
    Business Bureau?
10. Does the pet sitter have regular office hours or return customer
    inquiries promptly?
11. Is the sitter recommended by someone you trust - either your vet,
    trainer, dog show buddies, etc?
12. Does the pet sitter have a veterinarian on call for emergency
    services? 
13. What contingency plan for pet care does the pet sitter have in the
    event of inclement weather or personal illness?
14. Does the company have a training program for their sitters?
15. How does the pet-sitting service recruit and screen applicants?
    Are there any prerequisites for employment?
16. Does the pet sitter or pet-sitting service telephone to determine
    if the client has returned home as scheduled or require that the
    client notify the company or pet sitter of their arrival home?
17. Does the pet sitter or company provide a rating form for customer
    feedback and evaluation of pet-sitting services?
18. Does the pet-sitting service have an established system for
    handling customer complaints?
19. When does the sitter get paid?  Before or after you come back?
    A deposit up front and the rest later?

Try to find word of mouth recommendations.  You might try calling
several vets in your area to see if they have any recommendations.
Check with the local SPCA and with Better Business Bureau for any
specific complaints lodged with a particular business.

2.  Kennels

Look around for a good one.  Experiences can be good or awful
depending on the kennel.

One resource: The American Boarding Kennel Association (ABKA) is based
in Colorado Springs.  You can use this organization to help you choose
a kennel.  If you write to them (or call them), they will send you a
small packet of information.  One part is a booklet on how to choose a
kennel, and another part is a list of all ABKA accredited kennels
around the country.

An ABKA kennel is supposed to meet a minimum set of criterion that is
spelled out in their literature.  The things they suggest you look for
and questions to ask involve a lot of common sense stuff, but there
are good suggestions you might not think of.

4575 Galley Rd., Suite 400A
Colorado Springs, CO  80915
719-591-1113


F.  Record Keeping.

1.  Breeders

You should not rely on AKC to keep all your records straight.
Breeders MUST keep official records on their dogs.  There are numerous
fines listed in the back of the _Gazette_ for failure to maintain
proper records.  If you don't have your own record book, you should
start one.  If you are cited, you may have to start all over again
with new dogs.  That means that all the dogs you breed lose their AKC
registrations.  The AKC screws up a lot of things.  That's why it is
so important that breeders keep good files for their own breed club's
use.

Breeders need to keep records in a book about their breeding dogs.
This includes the dog's registered name, number, sex, color, markings,
date of birth, and OFA, CERF etc. Every time that dog is bred (either
male or female) the date, the name of the other dog, the number of the
other dog, and the number of the owner of the other dog goes into it.
When the puppies are born, the number of puppies, sexes, colors,
markings, date of birth and litter number is added.  The breeder's
name(s) is also included.  On the litter registration form, the
information is reprinted to get the individual registration forms.

When the puppies are placed in a home, the new owner's name, address
and phone number go into the proper places.  (You can order these
books from the AKC -- they are called "Dog Ownership and Breeding
Record" books and they cost about $5 -- but they have enough pages for
many dogs.)

2.  Titles

For titles and points, keep a small *bound* notebook (so that the
question never comes up whether pages have been added or removed) to
record the judge's name, the number of dogs in the classes, the number
of points, the date, the show, and the club sponsoring the show.
Record obedience trials the same way.  You may want to have a folder
in which to keep all ribbons and copies of certificates and pedigrees
along with a few pictures of the dog.  You just need to have a record
of your own -- like your check book -- to make sure someone doesn't
goof up.  Two records are better than one!

3.  Working dogs

Dogs that work: e.g., Search and Rescue dogs, Police dogs, Disaster
dogs, any that work in potentially liable situations or do work that
may be challenged in court should have an ongoing record of their
training and of actual cases.  Note date and time, individuals
involved in the training, the purpose of the training, how the
training session was set up, how the dog did, and where it needs to
improve.  For an actual case, note all the specifics involved: who you
talked to, where you got the scent article or other applicable
information from, who was found/rescued/attacked, etc.  If you can, go
back and take pictures of the trail followed or other useful sites.
Keep training and actual case records separate.

If, for example, an SAR dog's identification of a felon comes into
question, that record may prove the difference as to whether the
evidence is ruled admissible or not.  In contrast to the above for
titles, keep training and case records in a loose-leaf binding, so
that only the record pertinent to the case need be forwarded to the
lawyers.

4.  Your personal enjoyment

Anyone training a dog may find it useful and interesting to keep a log
of their dog's progress in training.  In particular, it might help you
uncover patterns unique to your dog, or suggest other ways to approach
training.


G.  Removing Odors and Stains.

1.  Urine

Products that remove odors: Nature's Miracle (carpet, has 800
number); Simple Solution (carpet and other items); Resolve (carpet,
perhaps other items); Odor-Mute Enzyme Formula by the Ryter Corp.
These products use enzymes to break down the odor causing compounds in
urine and feces, and are quite effective.

Pouring club soda over the spot is often recommended for removing
odors; it may have a similar enzymatic reaction as the above products
(but this is speculation).

If the urine has soaked the pad and the floor below that, it will be
difficult to remove the odor regardless of what you use.

If you have trouble finding the exact location of the urine (because
it has dried), you can use a black light after dark.  Since urine
fluoresces, you will be able to spot it and clean it up.

On launderable items: put in the washing machine with a cup of vinegar
and no detergent, then wash again as usual.

Most of the above products will also work to remove stains from the
carpet, and sometimes from clothing.  Spot Shot is very good with
carpet stains (but not odors).  You should remove odors first and then
deal with the stain, otherwise the chemicals for removing stains
may make the odor permanent or otherwise interfere with the enzymes
for odor removal.

For your yard, gypsum is supposed to help lawns cope with urine.
This is found in Jerry Baker's _Plants are Still Like People_.

2.  Skunks

The important thing is to get the skunk oil off a quickly as possible
and don't let the dog spread the oil around.  Also, the skunk smell
seems to be easier to get rid of the sooner the dog is washed.

To get rid of the smell - try vinegar diluted with water.  Douches
work (they contain vinegar), but the perfumes may irritate some dogs'
skin.  Soap the skunked areas, then apply the vinegar - let it sit a
little while, and then soap again.  Don't get the vinegar in the dog's
eyes.  Try also: diluted lemon juice and a dishwashing detergent (Dawn
is generally recommended) to cut the grease.

There is a product available called SKUNK OFF.

If your dog's been thoroughly sprayed, don't expect to get all the
smell out with a bath but what smell is left will go away faster.

3.  Saliva

The watery, tasteless liquid mixture of salivary and oral mucous gland
secretions that lubricates chewed food, moistens oral walls, and
contains enzymes that function in the predigestion of starches.

The enzymes are the potent operatives here that leave semi-permanent
slime trails on clothes, ceilings, walls, and table tops, depending on
your breed.  Removal of high-powered slobber, especially from
polyesters and blends, can be a problem.  For washable fabrics, the
cheapest pre-wash treatment is Accent meat tenderizer liberally
sprinkled on the the slobber spots (wet the spots or whole garment
before applying the Accent). Let it soak for a few minutes, then wash
as usual with laundry detergent.


H.  Separation Anxiety.

Some dogs may cry and whine when you leave.  Most get over it in time.
You can minimize it by not making a big deal of leaving; say good-bye,
give him a treat, and walk out.  You can probably condition your dog
to accept it better by leaving for short errands and coming back soon,
possibly over the weekend when you don't have to work.

Go ahead and crate the dog while you're gone (provided it's been
crate-trained, of course).  A crate can help your dog feel more secure
in its own personal space where it can't get into trouble.


I.  Showing and Breeding your Purebred Dog.

Before you do anything else, you should head out to your library and
read up as much as you can on your breed before attempting to make
contacts.  You will present a much more favorable impression if it is
clear that you've done some reading and are serious when you come up
to ask questions.  Be aware that if you're serious about getting into
show and possibly breeding, you will be investing literally years of
your time.

1.  Getting into the show world

You will need to meet and get to know other people in the show arena.
This generally involves attending dog shows and talking to the owners
(at appropriate times, of course).  Joining up with your breed's club
also gives you more contacts to learn from.  Expect an "apprentice"
period as the experienced folks scope you out and decide just how
serious you are.  This takes patience, but is well rewarded later when
you have resources for the questions that will inevitably come up.

You might get the opportunity to help out someone who is showing their
dogs.  This gives you a closeup view of what is involved with your
breed and showing.

(a) Entering a dog

If you get the AKC Gazette, you'll get a show listing and some entry
forms.  You'll also get instruction in the booklet on how to fill out
and send in forms (also where).  That's all.

(b) References on showing

Other good books about showing are:

Tietjen, Sari B.  _The Dog Judge's Handbook_.  Howell Books.
Forsyth, Robert and Jane.  _Guide to Successful Dog Showing_.  Howell Books.
Seranne, Ann.  _The Joy of Breeding Your Own Show Dog_.  Howell Books.
Nicholas, Anna Katherine.  _The Nicholas Guide to Dog Judging_.  Howell Books.

And of course any other book you can find in the library under the
636.36 area the deals with showing or judging.  This way you'll know
what is going on both from the exhibitors standpoint and the judges
standpoint.

2.  Responsible breeding

(a) How do I go about convincing a breeder that I'm a serious prospect
for getting a puppy for show and possible breeding?

This can be difficult -- responsible breeders often form a
unintentional "club": they are very concerned about their puppies and
prefer to sell to people they know or are highly recommended.  Also,
really good breeders often have long waiting lists for all their
puppies that can be years long.  This is where your previous leg work
in making contacts among the show and breeder in your breed helps out.
IT WILL TAKE PATIENCE.  The payoff for waiting is much better,
although very frustrating.

You might "apprentice" yourself to a breeder and go over with the
breeder on the next few breedings: why the pair were chosen, what the
breeder was hoping to accomplish, etc.  And then helping out with the
new litter: evaluating it, helping care for them, seeing all this
stuff first hand gives you a lot of feedback on whether you have the
will to do this yourself.  

You may find it worth your while to go into co-ownership with a
breeder who is willing to be your mentor and coach you through your
first steps.  Other contracts usually stipulate that you will get the
CH and/or CD, etc on your puppy before breeding it.

(b) Why are many breeders so difficult about "admitting" new people
into their ranks or even just helping them out?

Do understand that there are people who renege on their contracts (and
start breeding willy-nilly) and so there are breeders who are leery of
even sincere people.  This is why you should work very hard to make
yourself known as someone who is really willing to do this right.  It
is sometimes difficult to understand just how hard being a responsible
breeder is.  Usually the new and upcoming breeder gets digruntled with
how hard it really is and gets the female spayed anyway, but sometimes
they just chuck it all and start breeding without thinking about it.

You just have to get your toe in the door.  Once you do, watch out for
"information overload".  Then you will understand why breeders are so
cautious.  Then when you get really successful, they want you to do
your part and help everyone else that wants to give it a shot, or they
want help to really nail those people who goof it up for everyone
else.

(c)  What if I just get a puppy and start breeding her?

Attempting to short-circuit this process by acquiring a petstore puppy
to breed will not work in the sense that no reputable breeder will
breed to your dog.  You will not get good quality puppies via this
route.  Most puppy-mill dogs are instantly spottable by their looks
and if not, the pedigree will always warn off prospective breeders.

(d)  Do breeding-quality dogs have to have their CH?

Well, yes and no.  Of course, opinion is divided on this, even among
the reputable breeders.

Some good dogs never finish their CH's because of other accidents or
constraints.  As a breeder, you should know if your dog is finishable.
You should know its faults better than any judge that will ever see
the dog.  It is up to the breeder to understand the standard and to
honestly evaluate their own dogs.  If you are not qualified to do
this, then you need a mentor who can help you out.

On the other hand, as a demonstration of good faith and to be sure you
understand the work involved, many breeders who sell you such a puppy
will want you to have a go at getting a CH.  That way you not only get
a bit of notice in the area, but you also see what others of that
breed look like and how your dogs compare to them in general.  It also
exposes you to some of the worst ways to complete a dog's title as
well as some very nice dogs that just haven't been shown much.  This
way when you do go to breed, you'll have a better idea of what you are
breeding for.  

(e) What are the responsibilities involved in breeding?

It takes quite a lot of time to learn what dog makes a good match for
which bitch.  Two dogs that are both outstanding individuals may not
produce any outstanding puppies.  The individual dogs and their
pedigrees need to be carefully studied to verify that weaknesses on
one side will be complemented by strengths on the other side in the
same area.

You should consider that thousands, if not hundreds of thousands of
puppies in each of the more-well-known breeds are registered with the
AKC each year.  Average or run-of-the-mill litters are simply not
needed; more than enough exist.  Breeding only the truly outstanding
dogs within these popular breeds would still produce more than enough
puppies to meet demand.

Breeders usually breed for a specific purpose and with each litter
they are looking for a puppy with a particular set of characteristics.
Some good litters are very uniform, but more often than not, there is
only one or two such puppies.  As a result, they end up with quite a
number of puppies that need to be placed in "pet" homes.

Competent breeders either work or show their dogs.  If they are not
tested in any way, there is no external confirmation of the dog's
worth.  Even if the breed in question is simply a companion-type dog
(e.g., not a sporting, hunting, or other working breed), there should
be temperament testing and showing to make sure the dogs are in line
with the breed standards.

While many breeds of dogs can make good companion dogs, they often do
so not because they were directly bred as "companions" but because the
traits they have been selected for are also compatible with what is
needed for a companion dog.  For example, steadiness and trainability
are needed for most of the working breeds, these are also desireable
traints for companion dogs. In other words, they make good companion
dogs because of the years of breeding for working character and sound
structure.  Keep in mind these characteristics can be greatly
diminished in just a few generations, so *each* generation needs to be
evaluated to make sure that those qualities that come together to
produce a good specimen of the breed are still present.  


J.  Travel and International Travel.

1.  Car

Most dogs love travelling in the car.  Some are fearful, others are
prone to carsickness.  Any dog travelling in a car should be
restrained in some manner, both for its safety and yours.  Dogs can
travel in carriers, probably the best option.  There are available
barriers which can keep your dog in the back seat (this works
especially well with station wagon type of cars).  There are
restraining leashes available.  Riding in the back of a truck is just
asking for trouble, as the dog will almost always be killed if it is
thrown from the truck in even a minor accident.  There are also
restraining leashes for dogs in open pick-up truck beds.  Some states
have laws against dogs riding in the back of a pick-up.

1.1. Car sickness, fear

Try just sitting in the back seat and just talking and playing with
your dog, assure it over a few of these sitting-in sessions that there
is nothing to be afraid of.  Then do a couple of slow trips, just
around the block, no more. Then to the local park or beach, so your
dog starts to get the idea that car trips lead to "fun" places too.
Finally, try slowing down some more for those corners since side to
side movements in a car are the most common cause of motion sickness.
Opening a window or turning on the car fan may help some dogs.

Do *not* sympathize with the dog or try to soothe it.  While
car-sickness isn't quite the same as being afraid of riding in the
car, it could conceivably be brought on by such a fear.  If that is
the case, doing *anything* that the pup can possibly interpret as
praise can be counterproductive.  It will teach it that this fear is
the desired behavior.  If the car sickness if brought on by such fear
and it is, inadavertantly, taught that the fear is desired behavior,
the car sickness will continue.

2.  Plane

The May/June, 1990 issue of Golden Retriever News (published by the
Golden Retriever Club of America) had an article on airline
transportation of dogs.  Many of the comments should be common sense
-- such as having the proper crates and bedding, choosing non-stop
flights where possible, allowing plenty of check-in time, etc.  The
article goes on to say that the ratings are based on serious problems
reported between July 1988 and July 1989, and that air travel is
generally safe for animals, with a mortality rate of less than one
tenth of one percent.

One pet is allowed in each cabin.  Thus, if there is one First Class,
one Business class and one Tourist class cabin, three pets are
allowed.  This can be modified if the pets are house mates - two
people who are traveling with their two pets, then the pets can be in
the same cabin.  A cabin is a section that can be closed off from view
from the other sections either with a door or a curtain.

As for specific airlines: USAir has one of the best reputations in
shipping animals.  They routinely check up on the animals, and ask the
owners to call a specific number after each landing the plane makes to
contact an individual who can check on the animals.  Continental has
the worst reputation, having had several dogs die in their planes.  A
particularly horrible incident in the summer of 1991 involved five
samoyeds, three of whom died of heat prostration despite the pleas of
the passengers and owners, who could hear the dogs barking in the
cargo area.  Other airlines have varying reputations.  In general a
direct flight is safest.

There is a pamphlet from Northwest Airlines called "Priority Pet."  It
explains Northwest's methods of pet transport --- it was encouraging
to see an airline show explicit concern for this issue.  Northwest
asks owners to attach two bowls and a supply of food to the outside of
the kennel in order that the animal may be fed and watered (presumably
by Northwest personnel).  The caveats and conditions are enlightening
to read.

Other references: The _Conde' Nast Traveler_ (June 1992) has an
article on pets and planes, including information on which carriers
have been fined for violations of animal transportation laws.

3.  International Travel.

A partial list: most states require a health certificate and proof of
rabies vaccination for pets crossing state lines.  Most airlines will
require this regardless.  Hawaii and Britain have a 6 month quarantine
for all pets entering either island (the chunnel may change Britain's
policy in a few years).  Canada has a 4 month quarantine [I think?],
except from the US, where rabies vaccination documentation is
sufficient.  Scandinavian countries have a three month quarantine,
with exceptions for animals from rabies-free countries such as Britain
and Australia.

Dogs from New Zealand may freely enter Australia (but not from other
pacific islands).  Dogs from Ireland or Britain may enter after a 2
month quarantine.  All other animals must do six months of quarantine
in Hawaii or UK, a month out, and then 2 months in Australia.

4.  Shipping

You may find yourself shipping a dog, for various reasons.  Most
people simply ship them as cargo on an airline.  This works best when
the flight is a non-stop, and neither the start- or end-point is at
risk of too high or too low temperatures.  There is at least one
company that ships dogs.  This is

Pet Transfer 
(world wide door to door pet moving service)
714-660-9390 (USA)
[There may be an 800 , but I do not have it.]


K.  Vicious Dogs.

It is an interesting fact about American pit bulls that up until World
War II Pit Bulls were looked upon with favor and patriotism. There is
World War I propaganda portraying the Pit Bull as manifesting American
Virtues.  In a poster with other dogs representing their country of
origin, the pit bull in a bunting collar was subscribed "Independent,
but not afraid of any of them..."  In addition, at about the same
time, Collies were considered unreliable dogs that would attack people
without provocation.  Thus, it is easy to see that hysteria about a
particular breed is just that, hysteria.

In many cases the reasons given for the "viciousness" of some breed
are racist or classist and ludicrous to those who know dogs and follow
the reports. The German Shepherd was vicious because of it's overly
inbred purity (read German Uber-mench theory). In Germany the Doberman
was vicious because it was *impure* (read tainted with non-Aryan dog
genes, whatever they are...).  

What dog-knowers will tell you that human-aggressiveness and
dog-aggressiveness are totally different, and that, for example, dogs
bred to fight in fact had to be owner-safe in the most intense
situations where an owner needed to break two fighters apart.

Regarding attempts to ban certain breeds as "vicious," it should be
noted that the fault is not with the dog or the breed of the dog.
Unfortunately, certain breeds are perceived to be aggressive and
vicious.  People pick up these types of dogs and encourage them to be
aggressive and vicious.  The result is a badly-trained dog that has
been taught to fear people.  In addition, other people start breeding
these dogs with poor temperament and the cycle continues.  But it is
important to remember that the viciousness comes with poor training
and teasing of the dog and poor breeding practices.  Thus, penalties
should focus on individuals who display irresponsibility in the
handling of their dog and on those breeders who breed with poor
temperament, rather than on an entire breed.

References:

Hearn, Vicki.  _Bandit: The Dossier Of A Dangerous Dog_. 


L.  Wolves and Wolf Hybrids.

First, note that there is a group in the ALT hierarchy called
alt.wolves.  There, you can read firsthand experiences of hybrid
owners, and discuss other issues involving wolves and hybrids in
general.

1.  Wolves

Wolves are very different from canines, but they do share a common
ancestry.  Wolves can be fascinating to study -- and observation of
wolves' social structure and behavior shed much insight into canine
behavior.

Resources and References:

Wolf Park is an organization whose mission is to conduct behavioral
research to obtain a better understanding of wolves in captivity and
in the wild, to disseminate scientific information and improve captive
animal management techniques, and to educate the general public to
gain a compassionate and realistic understanding of wolves and
ecology.  Wolf Park is supported through memberships and donations.
Benefits include free admission to the park for one year, Wolf Park
News and Journal of Wolf Ethology, and discounts on books from the
bookstore.  Behavior seminars directed by Dr. Erich Klinghammer are
offered.  There is an Adopt-A-Wolf program as well.  Note that they do
not deal with wolf-hybrids: many people attempt to donate their WH's
and they do not accept them.  Their position is that wolf-hybrids are
a bad idea and a detriment to wolves and the Park's mission.  They
will provide information about hybrids to those that ask.

Address: Wolf Park, Battle Ground, IN 47920.  Phone: (317) 567-2265.

Mech, L. David. _The Wolf_.  University of Minnesota Press, 1970.
384 pgs Softcover.  ISBN: 0-1866-1026-6.
  Complete description of the wolf, its behavior and ecology.
  David Mech is a renowned wolf expert, and this is an extremly
  informative and well written book.

Lopez, Barry H. _Of Wolves and Men_.  Charles Scribner's Sons, 1978.
308 pgs Softcover. ISBN: 0-684-16322-5.
  Description of wolves and their relationship with humans.  Not
  really a technical discussion of wolves like the first reference.

Crisler, Lois.  _Arctic Wild_. New York, Harper. 1958.

Mowat, Farley.  _Never Cry Wolf_.  Boston, Little, Brown. 1963.

The Wolf Society of Great Britain produces the flyer "The Howler."
Prospect House
Charlton
Kilmersdon. Bath. BA3 5TN


2.  Wolf-Hybrids

**********************************************************************
FAQ author's note:  I disclaim *any* responsibility in the event you 
get a wolf-hybrid.  It is my personal recommendation that you not get 
one.  What follows is for informational purposes only and is presented 
here only because it is a controversial topic that comes up every now 
and then on this group.  I have attempted to make a fair presentation,
and have included resources for further information.
                                                  --Cindy Tittle Moore
**********************************************************************

Anyone who is interested in getting a wolf-hybrid should obtain as
much information about the animals *before* considering getting one.
WH's are not casual pets and do not behave like dogs do.  Most WH
experts recommend that you spend some time around WH's to be sure of
what you are getting into.  Wolf Country and other places offer
programs where people can help care for WH's and learn first hand
about them.  There are also seminars and organizations to help
disseminate the information a WH owner needs.  **DO NOT EVEN
*CONSIDER* GETTING A WOLF-HYBRID BEFORE GETTING THIS INFORMATION AND
EDUCATION!**

What follows below is a thumbnail sketch of the sorts of problems with
wolf-hybrids, along with resources for more complete information.

Legality: Because of various state and federal laws regarding wildlife
and endangered species, wolf-hybrids are simply illegal.  As of 1991,
they were illegal in ten states, and an additional nine required Fish
& Game permits, especially if the hybrid was at least 75% wolf.  A lot
of states don't quite know what to do with hybrids and have thus
included such terminology in defining hybrids as "wolf-like
characteristics."  Even when legal, they face much prejudice, and a WH
that runs afoul of the law (by trespassing, biting, etc) is much more
likely to be destroyed than a dog doing the same.  

In addition, such a WH will generate negative publicity for wolves.
Reinforcing negative images of wolves in the public's mind and giving
ammunition to the ranching industry to produce more anti-wolf
propoganda directly hampers the wolf's reintroduction into the wild.
Unfair as it is, the general public will think "wolf" when
"wolf-hybrid" comes up, and the ranching industry has long had an
interest in completely eliminating wolves and will use this prejudice.

Behavior: Although there are exceptions, most WH's do NOT act like
domesticated dogs, Jack London's romantic stories notwithstanding.
Dogs are the result of thousands of years of genetic selection for
those attributes that are desired by man.  The wolf, on the other
hand, has been selected to be a survivor.  Most suffer from a fear, or
at least a nervousness, of being around people and are very timid
until something happens to go against their instincts. The pack
instinct is very strong. They will only obey their owner if they feel
he is the dominant dog in the pack, so obviously, he needs to know A
LOT about wolfpacks to stay ahead of the game.  Also, hybrids don't
always automatically assume that the "master" will remain the master,
resulting in testing the owner for dominance, which can take the forms
of attacking or defensive fighting.

Predicting behavior: The percentage of wolf in the hybrid's background
will not accurately predict its behavior.  Some hybrids with low
percentages are nervous and skittish, others with high percentages are
more stable and reliable.  Looking at the pup's parents may give some
indication, but then it may not.  A good deal will depend on how well
socialized the animal is, that is, how much work its owner puts into
it.  Remember, WH's are NOT a breed, there is absolutely no
consistency in their breeding.  Not only does the percentage of wolf
background vary, but the dogs used in the crosses also vary, although
they are commonly Malamutes and Huskies.  Also, since they are not
bred for any particular purpose and there are a number of backyard
breeders of WH's, this contributes to their uncertain temperament.
Because WH are so much more work than average dogs, and because the
*potential* is there for the WH to be more prone to what is deemed
anti-social behavior in domesticated dogs, the problem is amplified.

Around people: WH's, as with any large or excitable animal, should
NEVER be allowed access to small children, unless they are on a leash
and strictly watched for signs of aggression.  If a child trips and
falls, or gets knocked down by the big furry "dog", or worse yet,
teases the "dog", a mauling can easily result.  Hybrids need to be
watched around strangers because they may back bite.  Not all WH's
react this way, but a hybrid owner cannot afford to take any chances.
Again, because of negative public perception, the hybrid will likely
be destroyed as a result of such an incident, and its behavior only
reinforce the negative perception.  In addition, it will further
damage the reputation of wolves, making reintroduction that much
harder, and damage the reputation of the dogs the wolves are bred to,
usually Siberian Huskies and Alaskan Malamutes.

Training: Many respondents emphasized that WH's can be trained, but
NOT TRUSTED without their owners nearby.  Most obedience clubs will
not even allow wolf hybrids in classes.  Wolf Country, a breeder near
Anchorage, strongly recommends potential owners work around the
animals for at least a year in order to see if they can handle them
and do want one.  Apparently they socialize quite differently from
dogs, and can differ in their response to discipline.  The normal
methods used on dogs may or may not work on a hybrid.  Because of all
this, you will need WH support groups of some form nearby to help you
with potential training problems.

Housing: YOU DO NOT (repeat NOT) PUT A HYBRID ON A CHAIN IN THE BACK
YARD!  You need to build an enclosure of at least 10000 square feet to
allow it to explore.  Also it must be fenced with at least 7' high and
an overhang.  Not only that, but it wouldn't be a bad idea to put a
gate to your back yard to prevent children from wandering out there,
because if you stick something into its area, it will try to pull it
through, regardless of whether it is living or just a stick.  Some of
these animals are so strongly destructive that they can not be let in
the house, and will destroy any house you make for them.

Health: Most medicines for dogs do not work or are unapproved for use
on hybrids and as a result hybrids may have a harder time getting over
kennel cough, parvo, distemper, etc.  In Indiana, for example, it is
illegal to vaccinate a wild animal (including hybrids).

Resources:

The Wolf Hybrid Times (WHT) is packed full of information: complete
with many long series on topics such as nuitrition, containment,
medical information, current legal status and issues, research, wolves
in literature, photos and seasoned, practical advice from owners,
breeders and scientists.  Add to this commercial advertising
specifically geared to wolf and wolf hybrid owners plus regular
updates and activities from the various organizations.  Subscription
rate is $20.00 per year; please add $4.00 outside the U.S.  Published
bi-monthly.  Address is: WHT, P.O.  Box 1423, Gallup, NM 87305.

The National Wolf Hybrid Association is dedicated to responsible care
and understanding of the wolf hybrid.  Membership fees are $25.00
yearly which include a bi-monthly newsletter.  Address: Rt. 1 Box 163
Chapmansboro, TN 37035.  Phone: (615) 746-3442.

----------------
This file is Copyright (c) 1992 by Cindy Tittle Moore.  It may be
freely distributed in its entirety provided that this copyright notice
is not removed.  It may not be sold for profit nor incorporated in
commercial documents without the author's written permission.

Cindy Tittle Moore
Internet: tittle@ics.uci.edu  UUCP: ...!ucbvax!ucivax!tittle
Bitnet  : cltittle@uci        USmail: PO BOX 4188, Irvine CA 92716
----------------