HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: keys@starchild.ncsl.nist.gov (Lawrence B. Keys)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: What's up with that...
Date: 5 Jan 93 13:45:43 GMT
Organization: National Institute of Standards & Technology


As far as the trunk is concerned, my trunk light can be disabled
simply by using my thumb to push in the pin switch (located on the 
trunk lid).  It has a locked in position.

The radio is an easy fix. Wire the +12v to a switched source.

I have no complaint about the shift pattern.  Although, I certainly
wouldn't try to compare a VW transmission with anything from Japan.

This past weekend i went to the Auto Show at the D.C Convention Center.
I had the opportunity to sit in many cars that i wouldn't normally 
consider buying ($119K Mercedes 600) even if i could afford them.

Anyway, one thing that was very obvious to me was that the clutch pedal
in all of the Japanese cars (except RX7) was to light.  The clutch
pedal in these cars had no feel at all.

Also, i saw a Honda Accord 2dr with leather interior, rear spoiler and
alloy wheels for $21K.  Come on, $21,000.00 for an Accord.  How could
anyone claim that the VR6 Passat, or Corrado cost to much!

                                                  .  
                                                 /                
Larry                            __/    _______/_                 
keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov       /                  \               
                          _____     __     _____    \------- ===
            ----------- / ____/   /  /   /__  __/              \
         /     ___    /  / ___   /  /      / /    ____          |
        |    /      \/ /__ /  | /  /__  __/ /__ /       \      / 
        /___         \_______/ /_____/ /______/            ====OO
            \       /                           \       /         
                -                                   -
       ---------------- FAHRVERGNUGEN FOREVER! --------------------            
            The fact that I need to explain it to you indicates
            that you probably wouldn't understand anyway!
       ------------------------------------------------------------
From: poirot@mickey.jsc.nasa.gov (Daniel Poirot)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: I have leaky spark plugs!
Date: 10 Jan 93 15:05:47 GMT
Organization: NASA Johnson Space Center


Howdy from Houston!

I have a 84' Audi 5000S with a NEW problem.  (~100K mi. 125-140 psi on all 5!)

I was replacing a blown radiator hose yesterday.  I had the new hose on
and was very sloppy filling the overflow tank.  I ended up with water
all over the engine.

I started the car, just to see it work again, and saw BUBBLES coming
out from around the spark plugs.  I replaced the plugs last month and
though I had the plugs tight enough.  I can't find a torque value in
the stinking Bently manual!

Do I risk stripping the head or do I trash the plugs and try again?

-- 
Daniel Poirot           poirot@aio.jsc.nasa.gov
NASA JSC                "The mind is a terrible thing."
ER3                     tel: (713)483-8793
Houston, TX 77058       fax: (713)483-3204
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: garrett@Ingres.COM (WHEN ALL ELSE FAILS, READ THE INSTRUCTIONS)
Subject: Vdub bugs
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.4-b1  
Keywords: 
Organization: ASK Computer Systems, Ingres Product Division
Date: 7 Jan 93 21:10:40 GMT

	I've experienced a few things that I can't explain 
with my super beetle and maybe someone could explain them.

1. Why is it that when it's raining, the windshield seems to collect
   water rather than get rid of it?

2. Is it just my car, or does this happen to everyone? When you are low
   on gas, and you make a sharp right turn, the car sputters.

3. I remember seeing old commercials about Vdub bugs that show them floating
   in water. But mine has 2 inches of water in the floorboards right now
   when it's raining. It even leaks just when I wash it.

-Garrett 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: jgladu@bcm.tmc.edu (grungy (John F. Gladu))
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Using Brakes....a Clarification
Followup-To: rec.autos.vw
Date: 11 Jan 1993 19:25:48 GMT
Organization: Systems Support Center, BCM
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: j.ssctr.bcm.tmc.edu

In article <6aV7wB2w164w@ham.almanac.bc.ca>, emd@ham.almanac.bc.ca wrote:
  
  rgolen@UMASSD.EDU writes:
  
  For 95% of driving, stopping is not that hard on your 
  brakes. Why downshift? 
  
  I admit, there are times when either you or your car
  have exceeded their abilities, and you need some
  help...then downshift. But downshifting everytime
  you want to slowdown or stop is unnecessary.
  
  Ric
  
  
  Downshifting when slowing down is just good driving practice, as you are 
  then in the correct gear to accelerate if necessary. If you don't 
  downshift, you may not be able to get out of the way of some guy running 
  a red light, or whatever. It doesn't mean necessarily that you are 
  relying solely on engine braking to do the slowing down.

I concur with the thought that it's nice to always be in the correct gear
for GOING even when you current task is STOPPING.  A negative example:  my
wife has never learned to downshift and she *frequently* tries to drive at
less than 10mph in fourth gear when confronted with a not-quite-stop
situation (e.g. the light turned green again before coming to a complete
stop).  The Vanagon bucks along unhappily until she figures out something
like "oooohhhhh, I should be in a lower gear".  I'm sure this kind of
torture is far worse for the entire drivetrain than what we've been
debating in these threads...

I've tried to teach her, but...

bcnu - grungy (John Gladu) '61 Panel, '68,'69 Beetles
Systems Support Center -- Baylor College of Medicine
INTERNET: jgladu@bcm.tmc.edu  | VOICE: (713)798-7370
 US MAIL:  One Baylor Plaza, Houston, Texas  77030
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: jtong73@calvin.edu (Joanna Tong)
Subject: Re: [W] 5 Pot engine
Organization: Calvin College
Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1993 22:17:11 GMT

In article <1247@bazooka.amb.org> ti@bazooka.UUCP (Ti Kan) writes:
>In article <1993Jan1.200105.18390@julian.uwo.ca> morton@gaul.csd.uwo.ca (Brent Morton) writes:
>>In article <1992Dec31.182539.13041@wes.on.ca> tomh@wes.on.ca (Tom Haapanen) writes:
>>>> michaelb@compnews.co.uk (Michael Burton) writes:
>>>>> Having read about the bullet proof 5 cylinder engine that Audi produce,
>>>>> I must say that my Audi Coupe 2ltr had done nearly 110000 miles and
>>>>> it is still as sweet as a nut.
>>>
>>>bernie@metapro.DIALix.oz.au (Bernd Felsche) writes:
>>>> My Audi 5+5 (which became the "90" in Europe) had 178000 km
>>>> on it when sold. Burnt a bit of oil. Mechanic told me it was
>>>> all through the valve guides as compression was still good.
>>>
>>>Mu friend's '84 Audi Coupe GT has 385,000 km (240,000 miles) on it right
>>>now on the original engine.  Things wear out slowly, but it just keeps
>>>going and going and going...
>>
>>My '84 4000 S went 252 000 km (157 500 miles) of hard driving on the original
>>engine, and now has 87 000 km (54 000 miles) on its second engine, which I
>>transplanted from a wrecked '86.
>
>Looks like we're starting a cacade... My '80 Audi 4000 now just passed the
>175,000 mile mark, and that trusty 1.6L engine is still running strong.  At
>the rate it's going, it'll probably last another 100,000 miles.  But, I
>want more power, so I made myself a new year's resolution that this year
>sometime, I will upgrade it to a Techtonics 2045cc motor with a ported
>hydraulic head... I can't wait.
>
>VW/Porsche/Audi.  You know it makes sense.


Your comments regarding Audi/VW part interchangeability are true.  I have
one suggestion that will save you money though for next year.  Instead of 
getting the techtonics 2045 why don't you purchase a good used AUDI motor
instead?  The motor I'm talking about is the 1984cc unit from the base
1990 (or therearounds) AUDI 80!  The lower end of this motor is the factory
2.0 litre "balloon block" with 92.8 crank, 82.5 bore, AUDI rods (stronger 
than VW), piston oil coolers, 10.5:1 compression ratio.  I picked one up
for a decent price (lower than you might think) and mine has 10,000 miles on
it.  You can bolt up that hydraulic head you were talking about and YES
the motor mounts bolt up just fine on a Rabbit/Golf and they should bolt up
just fine on your vehicle seeing as it was mounted longtitudinally on the AUDI.
You should add the knock sensor ignition.  I'm in the process of doing it all
now and will tell everyone how it goes - including 30-50, 40-60 times as well
as the fuel economy.  I figure that it should have about 130-140 hp with
2" exhaust, cam, and all the typical tricks.  It also will look stock.  One
thing I have heard about the techtonics 2020 and 2045 is that they aren't
as relatively free reving as the 1781 or 1984 motors due to the big crank.
Perhaps that is not true.  At any rate if you take my advice you'll save 
lots of cash.

Peter Tong (jtong73)
.




 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: garrett@Ingres.COM (Smokers are productive, but death cuts efficiency)
Subject: Car names
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.4-b1  
Keywords: 
Organization: ASK Computer Systems, Ingres Product Division
Date: 13 Jan 93 03:18:55 GMT

	I've owned my super beetle for 2 years now and have tried
repeatedly tried to find a nick-name for my car, but have failed to find
one that really sticks. (The ones I've tried depend on how the car is
running at the time ;^))
	That got me curious what everyone else has named their car. 
What about it? Anyone have any good ones?

Garrett
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rmmchlsk@leland.Stanford.EDU (robert michalski)
Subject: For sale: '66 VW Bug engine
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Distribution: ca
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 93 19:18:26 GMT

<<<<<<<<<PLEASE DO NOT RESPOND TO THIS ACCOUNT>>>>>


For sale: '66 VW Bug engine $225
6v.


Call Derede at (415) 851-9655 for more information.


Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: edb17@bih.no (Svein)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: GIF IMAGES AT FTP.FUNET.FI
Date: 4 Jan 93 10:06:50 GMT
Organization: Bergen College of Engineering, Bergen, Norway
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8]



Hi folks!

I just want to say this : nice gifs of some aircooled VW at Nic.Funet.fi
/pub/pics/gif/pics/machines/cars/VW

VWACB ...
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: kuo@teal.csn.org (Spencer Shafer)
Subject: Re: 1979 VW Rabbit diesel Problem
Organization: Colorado SuperNet, Inc.
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 23:35:09 GMT

In article <1993Jan7.175540.19595@sequent.com> beck@sequent.com ("W. Scott Beck") writes:
>Hi There
>I own a 1979 Rabbit Diesel C and have a problem. The weather is about
>4 degrees with the wind chill and the car would not start. It has
>a new fuel filter, new belt, alt/gen is about a year old, battery
>was recharged three weeks ago. the would crank but not turn over,
>tried jump starting it, did the same thing. Any ideas what it could
>be??
>I'm ready to get my gun out and shoot it, it is a problem car since
>I bought it two monts ago (third owner) 181k miles, 
>
>Thanks for any help
>Scott
>PS anyone want to buy a Rabbit Diesel?

It is either your glow plugs or your fuel injectors, with 90% odds
for the glow plugs.  They have to be replaced about every two years
here in Colorado.  They are $12.95 each at Recycled ____ and can be
installed by your mother-in-law in less than an hour.  20 minutes if
you've done it before.  Just Do It.

David Haile
.

-- 
  /-------------------------------------------------------------------------/
 /      David W. Haile - Kuo & Associates, Inc., Ft. Collins, Colorado     /
/-------------------------------------------------------------------------/
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: jennings@chainsaw.fishkill.ibm.com ()
Subject: Re: decelerating by downshifting
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 93 18:59:23 GMT
Reply-To: jennings@chainsaw.fishkill.ibm.com ()
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center

In article <1993Jan11.162842.19461@news.cs.brandeis.edu>,
andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang) writes:
> Just some random points about downshifting
> 
> When I downshift, I try to put _no_ wear on the clutch by matching
> revs properly.  If done right, engine braking is occurs only after the
> clutch is fully engaged and so no (clutch) wear comes from it.
> 
> Downshifting for modern hi perf driving is solely* to assist in
> exiting turns.

Not just exiting turns, but adjusting your attitude while in the corner.
Many high-perf (BOTH front and rear wheel drive) exhibit lift throttle
oversteer. You dive too deep into a corner, and the front end can begin
to lose grip (understeer). Lift on the gas, and the rear end starts to
slide out. Re-apply the proper amount of throttle, and you can drift
nicely thru the turn. But, in my experience, lifting the throttle ONLY
works when you have enough revs on the clock to allow engine braking
(and/or power) to cause change in the car's attitdue. Thus downshifting
during spirited cornering can be very effective. During normal
commuting, I don't downshift when slowing, to save wear and tear on the clutch.

>  That is, braking systems are so good that to stop
> best, you just use the brakes properly.  The only thing left is to get
> the engine and transmission ready to accelerate after slowing down.
> In a rear wheel drive car, you might want to downshift to play around
> with braking _balance_, but generally not in front wheel drivers.
> 
> -andy
> 
> *boy am I going to get into trouble for saying "solely"
> 

Bill Jennings
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: haasnr@ucunix.san.uc.edu (Nicholas Robert Haas)
Subject: Re: [W] Creamed 85 GTI Oh noooo!
Organization: University of Cincinnati
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 15:20:26 GMT

Shit.. My address in the header of that last message is screwed.. Send
replies with this messages address or the .sig address at the botton of both!

Thanks and Sorry for the bandwidth...

-- 
---===>>> Nick <<<===---
haasnr@ucunix.san.uc.edu
------------------------
From: eauu018@orion.oac.uci.edu (Glenn Kaino)
Subject: FORSALE : MOMO stars
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Organization: University of California, Irvine
Date: 6 Jan 93 20:26:59 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.vw

I have the following for sale:
	    (4) Momo 5-spoke stars, 16x7", chromed, fits Nissan, recent (last 3  
         years) Hondas
	    (4) Pirelli P700ZR16 size 205/50 2 with minor wear and 2 BRAND NEW
	        (they are $200 each new)

Retail price is over $2600....

Im selling mine for a $1200 + delivery

call (714) 854-7392 for information
leave a message for Glenn
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: corsa@shell.portal.com (Eric Richard Elliott)
Subject: Re: VW Bug Front Tires should be 18 lb?
Organization: Portal Communications Company
Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1993 17:11:35 GMT


>BARANSKI@veamf1.nusc.navy.mil (Jim Baranski) writes:

>> It says in the glovebox of my 72 bug, that the front tires should be 18 lb?
>> 
>> Is that right?  That sounds terribly low.  Will 18 lb make a difference from
>> the usual 32 lb?
>> 

	Well, my Corvair requires front tire pressure to be around 18-20 psi
	while the back should be around 28-32 psi...I would assume the
	Bug would be similar.  This is due to the lack of weight on the
	front wheels.  I know that a Corvair with the front tire pressure
	too high is very tricky to drive!  This is part of the reason the
	Corvair was given a bad rap...in the 60s, people would pull their
	Corvair into a full-service gas station, the gas-jockey would check
	the air pressure in the tires, think the front tires were low, fill
	them up to 30 psi, and the unsuspecting driver would lose control 
	of the car on the highway, and the Corvair would be to blame...

	So, I would assume that the front tires on the bug should be kept
	around 18-20 psi.

	-Eric
	'65 Corvair Corsa turbo convertible


                                                                   __
/----------Corvair------------+---------------+-------------------///-------\  
|    ___  __   ___  __   __   |               | Multitasking __  ///        |
|   |    |  | |    |__   __|  |  Unsafe at    | my life      \\\///  Amiga  |
|   |___ |__| |     __| |__|  |  any speed... | away !!!      \XX/   3000   |
|-----------------------------+---------------+-----------------------------| 
|    Eric Elliott          Corsa@shell.portal.com       GEnie: E.ELLIOTT7   |
\---------------------------------------------------------------------------/

--
From: paul@hsh.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: [A] '71 Super has CO trouble
Date: 4 Jan 93 22:53:43 GMT
Organization: HSH Associates

In article <1993Jan4.182324.5034@zia.aoc.nrao.edu>, troberts@zia.aoc.nrao.edu (Timothy Roberts) writes:
> Hey, Folks!
> 	I have the joy of breathing Carbon Monoxide everytime I drive
> my '71 Super Bug.  My heater boxes are brand new.  My engine is
> freshly rebuilt and runs like a top.  I can't smell a thing.  

Were I a Wise Guy, I'd point out that CO is an odorless, colorless gas.
But I won't, becuz I'm not.  :-)

> Questions:
> 1) The pre-heated air hose slips onto the oil-bath air cleaner
> housing, goes through the tin rear engine cover and goes WHERE?  I
> can't find a place to attach the other end.

There is _supposed_ to be a little dingus that fits down there in that mess
of muffler pipes, into which the preheat hose is supposed to slip.  (If you
haven't seen it, I can't describe it better.)  However, most of us lose that
dingus (if we ever had it) the very first time we 1) change the muffler 2)
rebuild the engine 3) hit a bump.  That's not the cause of your problem
anyway. 

> 2) The old engine compartment seal is rotten and very hard.  I can't 
> see a way to replace it.  I was told a new one costs a mere $8.95 and
> I was told "you just remove the rear engine cover."  Huh?

That is part of the problem.  But there are two seals under discussion -- the
one you quote above is for the rear engine cover.  However, the one you
should be looking at is the rubber seal that fits around the engine
compartment -- if it's torn or missing, fumes can often enter your car. 
Replacing it is easy -- once you pull the engine! 

> 3) Why does my bug blow fumes even when the heater boxes are closed?

The problem is how the heater boxes are connected to the heat _exchangers_ -- 
if it isn't done right, it won't matter if the boxes are closed or not, 
you'll still be sucking CO into the car.

------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ 

Paul Havemann, VP        HSH Associates          (201) 838-3330 | 1-800-UPDATES
Internet: paul@hsh.com   Compuserve: 70410,3507  America On-Line: HSH Assoc
  ...Any opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the company...
From: coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM (Chip Coffin)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: decelerating by downshifting
Date: 9 Jan 1993 22:39:59 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Distribution: world
Reply-To: coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: surfin


I routinely down shift.  I don't believe it should harm the transmission
or engine.  If you don't get the engine up to speed manually before
you release the clutch in a lower gear, then you'll end up using the clutch
as your break, not the engine.

My philosophy is this:

While brakes are cheap, they are essential to my life, therefore I don't buy
the "clutches are more expensive" argument, because my life is ultimatly more
expensive.

BTW, I have 117K miles on my original GTI clutch, and it gives no indication of 
needing replacement.


chip
From: CPS@cup.portal.com (CHRIS PATRIC SMOLINSKI)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: alternator light comes on in the rain
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 93 17:28:52 PST
Organization: The Portal System (TM)
Distribution: usa

I have a 88 Golf that recently (well, a year or so ago I guess, it has just
recently become annoying) started having a problem in heavy rain. The 
alternator indicator LED comes on (not bright, usually quite dim in fact).
Then, after maybe a minute or so, it goes off, and you can hear the squeal of
a belt just as it goes out.
 
Ideas? I suspect that some sort of guard may have fallen out or come loose,
allowing water from the road to splash up inside under the hood. Of course,
if it is completely missing, I may not know it isn't there. Has anyone seen
this type of problem before? 

- CHRIS



Ack! Make that a 89 Golf. Don't even know my own car...
From: mwsn_ss@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (matthew weasner)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Vdub bugs [A]
Date: 12 Jan 93 21:55:00 GMT
Organization: University of Rochester (Rochester, NY)

In article <1993Jan7.211040.19558@pony.Ingres.COM> garrett@Ingres.COM (WHEN ALL ELSE FAILS, READ THE INSTRUCTIONS) writes:
>
>	I've experienced a few things that I can't explain 
>with my super beetle and maybe someone could explain them.
      {other problems deleted}
>3. I remember seeing old commercials about Vdub bugs that show them floating
>   in water. But mine has 2 inches of water in the floorboards right now
>   when it's raining. It even leaks just when I wash it.
>
>-Garrett 
I doubt my '68 would do much floating either. When the body was restored,(well,
kinda restored. Patched is more like it. :( ) whoever the schmuck was who did 
it didn't line up the panels below the door on the body so they tend to leak
mightily. Big puddles suck. Anyway, new seals around the doors would probably 
help. I usually stick some rags around the gaps when it really rains. I also
had to pop a small nail hole under the back seat when my two inches of water
got close to the voltage regulator. It helps to drain when it gets real bad.
Ah well. I'm sure this doesn't help at all, but maybe you feel better now that
you know you are not the only one. Sigh...They are such great cars, if only 
they didn't have so much damn character sometimes...Have fun Garrett. 
Bye all,
Matt.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: shade@chdasic.sps.mot.com (Douglas Shade)
Subject: Re: Brake question
Reply-To: shade@chdasic.sps.mot.com
Organization: Motorola SPS ASIC, Chandler, AZ
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 21:15:45 GMT


>	I have what should be a simple question <heh>. What exactly
>does it mean when you have to pump your brakes twice to get them to work
>properly? BTW, this question is in reference to drum brakes. 
>
>-Garrett@Ingres.com

1)If you pump twice and hold down, and the peddle doesn't slowly continue
toward the floorboard, your hydraulics are OK.  You need to adjust the 
brake drums.

2)If the peddle keeps moving toward the floorboard while under pressure and
you are not loosing too much fluid, you master cylinder is shot.

3)If you are loosing lots of fluid, one (or more) of your wheel and/or master
cylinder is bad.

Given your symptoms.  I'd go with door number one.
---
shade@chdasic.sps.mot.com                        \/
602-821-4096                                    \/\/...its not a car
From: uclydvh@ucl.ac.uk (Mr David John Howells)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Bad smell from heater in Audi 200
Date: 11 Jan 93 10:22:59 GMT
Organization: Bloomsbury Computing Consortium


I have a 1981 Audi 200 which when the engine is warm and I turn the
heater on a smell not dissimilar to curry fills the car!  The smell
is only there when the heater temperature control is not set to cold.
I have a suspicion that it's the heater matrix is leaking but
it doesn't really smell like engine coolant.  
(Though perhaps coolant does smell like this when evaporating in the heater
section!)
Any help as to diagnosing this problem will be gratefully received.

Thanks,

David