HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: johnsh@aix.rpi.edu (Hugh Johnson)
Subject: Re: 93 Mazda MX6 - v6
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 15:31:28 GMT

In article <1992Aug18.230317.29872@natinst.com> fellow@natinst.com (Osbert Tan) writes:
>I just picked up my new MX6 couple of days ago. On the whole, I'm
>pretty satisfy with the ride, handling. In view of the runin period 
>requirement, I've not been able to drive it hard. However, I used
>to own a 90 Nissan SX240 SE, and seems to me that SX240 rev at a
>lower rpm when traveling at say 60 mph (2500 as compare to 3000 rpm), 
>any speed beyond that though, MX 6 feels smoother and much quieter. 
>I am not sure if the inherent higher rev at lower speed is due to the 
>small size 6 cylinders of Mx 6, or heaven forbid any other undesirable
>reasons ? And of course I have not been able to feel the expected 'punch'
>whilst accelerating due to again the run in period requirement. Would
>any other owner care to share her/his first hand experience ?

I would suspect that the difference is in the gearing ratio between you old
Nissan and your new Mazda.  Overdrive gears (which is what I assume you're in
as you travel 60MPH) differ from car to car.  I noticed a few months back that
my mom's '86 Honda Accord (with a 2.0L, 12V inline 4) and my friend's '84 BMW
528e (with a 2.8L, 12V inline 6) both did exactly 3000RPM @ 70MPH.  Again,
differences in the overdrive gear's ratio, I would suspect.


-- 
===============================================================================
# Hugh Johnson # Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute # Troy, NY # johnsh@rpi.edu #
===============================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: fano@ils.nwu.edu (Andy Fano)
Subject: Re: Honda First time buyer program
Organization: The Institute for the Learning Sciences
Distribution: na
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1992 01:56:58 GMT

In article <1992Aug21.131155.615@bnr.ca>, dclayton@bnr.ca (Don Clayton) writes:
> In article <1992Aug19.165447.22784@news.cs.indiana.edu>, alyoung@kiwi.ucs.indiana.edu (Amy Young Leith) writes:
 [..]
> |> They do have a first time buyer program, which I asked about.  His
> |> first question was, "Do you have a degree?"  I said, "Working on it...
> |> why?"  He went through the list of things that one must have to
> |> qualify for the first time buyer program, like income, employment,
> |> etc, and the last one was, "A college degree."  Now why in the *hell*
> |> would they make this a qualification for a program such as this?  Not
> |> EVERYONE goes to/finishes a degree, you know!  I am SERIOUSLY thinking
> |> of changing my make of choice if this is indeed the case.  I had a
> |> *bit* of trouble understanding the man's accent, so I decided I'd not
> |> ask him to clarify, because *that* part I got loud and clear. 
> |> 
> |> I don't understand this... if I'm without a degree, and I want one of
> |> their cars, I don't get a special interest rate because I'm WORKING on
> |> school and not out of it.  However, after I finish school, if I want
> |> another one of their cars, I'm not eligible for the program because I
> |> have previously purchased a new car. 
> |> 
> |> amy
> 
> This is normal.  Almost all car manufactures will cut a grad with a 
> degree a deal (I got $1000 cash back).  I guess the logic is : you've
> graduated, have a (probably) good income job, and if you can suffer
> through 4 years of school, you can suffer through 4 years of payments.
> I know for a fact that GM, Ford, Dodge, Isuzu, and Toyota will say the
> exact same thing; why? because I asked.
> 
> A lot of other companies (VISA, Banks, etc.) do the same thing.  Remember,
> it's not the education that counts, but the little piece of paper you get
> at the end :)


I think another reason is that they expect a recent grads income to go
up in the future, so it's seen as a worthwhile investment to give them
a good deal now on a less expensive car, hope they have a good
experience with it, and really make a profit when they're making more
money and buy one of their more expensive cars.  On the other hand, if
you're not a particularly hot prospect for the future, they might as
well get everything they can out of you now.

Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: heinka@sequent.com (Heinka Peterson)
Subject: Used 4x4 Recommendations Needed
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems Inc.
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 92 16:29:57 GMT

Please excuse me if this topic is a FAQ, but I am in the market for a
used 4x4 rig. Looking for a 4 door Trooper, Explorer, Forerunner, etc.
With a little one on the way, my wife is convinced that this is the
only way to go. Hope to keep it in the $10-12K range. This in itself
may limit the choices (i.e., Explorers are probably more expensive).

Questions:
1) Which models could I expect to pay $10K for at what years (i.e.,
   'XX Trooper for $9-10K, etc.)?
2) Which models have better reliability and maintenance records?
3) If in my situation, what models would you choose and why?

Any insight I can get on what is available would be greatly
appreciated.

Thank you,
Heinka Peterson
Lines: 24
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 92 12:58:29 MDT
From: earlyd@ee.byu.edu (David Early)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Distribution: world
Organization: Brigham Young University, Provo UT USA
Subject: Datsun 240Z/260Z



We are looking at getting a new restoration project going, and
we wondered if there was anyone out there that had had any expereince
with the old Datsun 240Z/260Z.  We would like to find a '70 240Z, but that
is unlikely around here.

Questions are:
 1-Are parts available, and will they cost a fortune?

2-We have little experience with Japanese engines.  All our projects
have been American cars.  Anything we ought to know?

3- Is it worth it?  I had a friend whose father put a lot of money into a
260Z and loved it.  He finally sold it an bought a Miata a couple of years
back.  He liked it so much, though, that I thought this might be a fun car to
work on/drive.

Any expereince with these cars, especially problems you may have had
with working on it would be greatly appreciated.

Dave Early

PS  If this question is in the wrong place, please let me know.
Xref: sparky rec.autos:19834 rec.autos.driving:4868
From: tpickett@auspex.com (Tom Pickett)
Newsgroups: rec.autos,rec.autos.driving
Subject: Re: Radar Detectors and regular people
Date: 12 Aug 92 23:46:07 GMT
Reply-To: tpickett@auspex.com (Tom Pickett)
Followup-To: rec.autos
Organization: Auspex Systems, Inc.  Engineering

In article <aland.713650700@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu>, 
aland@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Alan D.) writes:
> How does a radar detector remind you of the speed limit?  When my
> radar dector goes off, it tells me that there is (probably) a police
> officer around, and that I should be aware that other cars might start
> braking for no apparent reason.  I wouldn't know whether I should slow
> down unless I knew what the speed limit was in that area...  Something
> which the detector couldn't tell me...

Umm, gosh, I don't know about you, but just having that detector sitting
up on my dash reminds me to watch my speed very closely.  Naturally
my radar detector hasn't told me the speed limit yet, but who knows?  maybe
a talking detector? :-)

I mean you don't have a detector so you can go over the speed limit
do you?!


Tom Pickett 
tpickett@auspex.com
SHO  GOZE
From: Brian.E.Hannon@dartmouth.edu (Brian E. Hannon)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: ....Integra A/C and Headlights.......problem ?
Date: 16 Aug 92 08:47:17 GMT
 <2400037@hpsad.sad.hp.com>
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH

My '89 Civic does the same thing...  and I also notice a dramatic
decrease in engine power whenever the compressor is running.  What I
have noticed, though, I don't know whether by design, or some sort of
feedback from the increased power on the motor...  When I hit the gas
hard to accelerate up a hill, the car will have very little power at
first, but invariably one second after I'll hear the click from the
dash and the car shoots up the hill.  The compressor turns on again
when the load on the engine is reduced.  Is this a design feature to
give me more power?  I kind of like it.

Bri
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: meiboy@tsoft.sf-bay.org (MeiBoy of UCU)
Subject: Re: Hottest-looking car of all time
Organization: The TeleSoft BBS and Public Access Unix, +1 415 969 7958
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 06:47:34 GMT

The Pinaferina(sp?) Mythos.  
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: bednarek@picard.med.ge.com (Dennis Bednarek Mfg 4-6971)
Subject: Re: HumVee 4 Sale??
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 92 06:02:16 GMT


Does anyone know the price range of the civilian versions?
Dennis


--

  
###############################################################################
###NEVER - NEVERMORE###########################################################
###############################################################################
####################################What are the contents of the oblong box?##
###############################################################################
  The usual disclaimer of self and employer applies to all above comments.
#
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen)
Subject: Re: Michelin MXV tire and its competitors
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 92 13:32:11 GMT

Somebody wrote:
>>>I had a set of MXV's on my '87 Integra. Now, that car is bad in slick
>>>conditions as it is, but the MXV's made it *far* worse. Terrible set
>>>of tires in my opinion.

Ronald Bense rejoins:
>>A car that is bad in the rain, and you want tires to cure the bad design?

Richard Welty replies:
>i can't speak of the relative badness/goodness of an Integra in the
>rain, but i can tell you that my Alfa is made into a completely different
>car with a simple tire change.  the wet performance with Yoko A509s is
>so superior to the MXV that it is quite astonishing.

i don't think either the Mark I or Mark II integra is bad in the rain.
if you screw up you get safe and stable understeer (unlike an '86 BMW 528e,
which has a fondness for swapping ends).  i have a '90 RS
with yokohama AX-323 tires.  i've also driven my friend's '91 LS with
MXVs.  the MXVs are passable in the dry, but absolutely horrendous in the
wet.  the traction is marginal, and breakaway occurs very abruptly.
i'm not thrilled with my tires, but i definitely prefer them to the MXVs.
if the MXVs cost less, maybe they'd be ok.  but for what they cost,
there are better tires (like michelin's own XGT).

this of course depends on how you drive.  if you never see six grand on
your tach and if you think power oversteer means there's too much power
assist, then MXVs will serve you well (but not your wallet).  otherwise,
get something else.
From: leonglaw@hpsgm2.sgp.hp.com (Lawrence Leong)
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 14:00:07 GMT
Subject: Re: V6 .vs. inline 6
Organization: HP Singapore
Newsgroups: rec.autos

In rec.autos, bowers@rigel.dfrf.nasa.gov (Al Bowers) writes:

|In article <53060056@hpsgm2.sgp.hp.com> leonglaw@hpsgm2.sgp.hp.com (Lawrence Leong) writes:
|
|>In rec.autos, k33074s@kaira.hut.fi (Micke Bergman) writes:
|
|>|>	The flat 6's (boxer) have the same "perfect" balance
|>|>as the inline six's, don't they?
|
|>|Yes ! Both boxer and 180 deg. V-engines are perfectly balanced to the
|>|first and second order forces and momentums.
|
|>Isn't a 180deg V-engine a boxer?
|
|No, they are not the same.  The difference is in the crank.  If the
|two opposing pistons meet TDC (top dead center) and BDC (bottom dead
|center) simultaneously, then the engine is a boxer ( the pistons move
|in and out together in a `boxing' fashion, hence the name).  If,
|however, the pistons that oppose are at TDC and BDC at the same time,
|the engine is a 180 degree V.
|
|Got that?
|
Ok.  But I (being a neophyte) don't see how this would give one design any
advantage over the other (apart from smoother running).  It would appear 
that a boxer would be inherently smother than a 180deg V.  

Digressing, so far, we've dwelt on 6 & 8 cyl engines.  I know that a 4cyl 
is inherently less balanced than a 6 or 8, so how does a 4cyl boxer then 
compare with a 4cyl inline in terms of power, torque, max rpm, 
roughness/smoothness etc.

lawrence
From: cboeker@batph78.bnr.ca (Craig Boeker)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: $758 for an oil change?
Date: 18 Aug 92 14:34:46 GMT
Reply-To: cboeker@bnr.ca
Organization: BNR Atlanta

|> In article <1992Aug17.215551.4386@tsoft.sf-bay.org>, meiboy@tsoft.sf-bay.org (MeiBoy of UCU) writes:
|> Usually when I take my car to the Ford dealer every 7500 miles for
|> sheduled maintenance, it costs about $170 and it includes
|> oil change, checking the hoses, battery, etc., lubing the chassis,
|> and rotating the tires.  
|> But today, I took my car in for the 30,000 mile sheduled maintenance
|> service and the  guy told me it will cost $758.  And this is not
|> for fixing anything.
|> Can anybody tell me what they do at 30,000 mi. that they don't
|> do at other mileages on Ford cars?
|> Has any other Ford owners experienced the same thing at their
|> 30,000 mile maintenance?

Let me hazard a guess that you own a Probe.  The reason I make that guess
is that I had an 89 Probe GT (unfortunately gone now) and the 30K service
estimate was about $650.  Incidentally they told me the 30K service for
the Mazda MX-6 was pretty much the same.

The service manager I talked to warned me about the price beforehand and
showed me the list of things they did with the associated costs so I could
have them not do certain things and reduce the cost.  For example, I had
the original tires replaced at 23K by NTW so I didn't need to have the
tires rotated and balanced (free with the tire purchase).  If the oil change
and associated fluid/lube checks are more than a 10 minute oil change place
charges don't have the service dept do it.

My advice would be to have the service manager give you a list of what they
do and how much it costs and eliminate those items that are unnecessary.
-- 
+---------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Craig Boeker          "The only thing I ever learned while talking was    |
| cboeker@bnr.ca         how stupid I could sound."                         |
| BNR Atlanta                                                               |
+---------------------------------------------------------------------------+
From: leonglaw@hpsgm2.sgp.hp.com (Lawrence Leong)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 10:45:14 GMT
Subject: Re: windshield problem
Organization: HP Singapore
Newsgroups: rec.autos

In rec.autos, ziny@nynexst.com (Ziny Flikop) writes:

|I have Buick and Galant. On each of them about 80,000 miles. I drive them on the same road. On Buick I have an  original windshield, but on Galant I am changing
| already fifth windshield now. Can somebody tell my why?

You like new windscreens?  :-)

lawrence

|
|
|
|ziny@nynexst.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: mrr1@Ra.MsState.Edu (mark r rauschkolb)
Subject: Re: Locking Lug Nuts & Broken Key: Suggest
Reply-To: mrr1@Ra.MsState.Edu
Organization: Mississippi State University
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 14:15:39 GMT


>I have a set of locking lugnuts (McGuard brand) that uses a squiggly shaped key (no
>serial number).
>
>The key is broken (shattered, but I have most of the pieces).  
>
>Any Suggestions for removing the locks?
>
Go to a Tire place, most of 'em have "Unlocking" kits, basically, its a set of
"sockets" that start out wide and get narrower, they put these over the "lock
nut" and bang it in till its tight, then unscrew it... I know NTW places
usually carry 'em... Depends on a a few things though, like if there is space
                                                            ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^   
around your nuts for the "tool" also it depends on the kind of nut you use..
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Nope - no room.  Slightly more than 1/8 inch

Mark
mrr1@isis.msstate.edu




Xref: sparky rec.autos:20185 rec.autos.tech:11327
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Newsgroups: rec.autos,rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Bad Paint on a New BMW?
Date: 19 Aug 92 07:01:09 GMT
Article-I.D.: mr.1992Aug19.070109.20133
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5

Yes, birds or tree sap could very well have caused the problem.  The question
of responsibility, however, is a different matter.

If the damage occured while they owned the car, they should fix it.
The fact that they are willing to pay for some of the work seems to me that
they are admitting responsibility, either that or they're trying to compromise
with you.

When I bought my '88 Saab 900T, I noticed a ding in the door a few days
later.  The SAAB dealer fixed it, because I don't go many places where
door dings are possible (I live in the 'middle of nowhere', and don't 
see parking lots much).

Since they and I agreed that it was probably there before I bought it, and went
un-noticed until I was washing it a few days later, they fixed it.  Of course,
they also fixed my seat which started splitting at the seam, on a 4 year old
car.  In fact, it was THEIR service man who suggested it!  Obviously they value 
me as a customer, and want me to buy my next one from them.  I will.

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.
hinz@picard.med.ge.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Clues for the mechanically ignorant; cracked 
From: vpopesc@opus.uucp (Valentin Popescu)
Date: 16 Aug 92 19:25:21 PDT
Organization: California State University, Lost Angels

In article <31150035@hpspkla.spk.hp.com> borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski) writes:
>
>The head gasket can fail ("blow" or crack), and allow combustion gasses,
>oil, and/or coolant to mix.  This can cause varying amounts of damage
>if not repaired in time. 

I believe this can be determined by the look of the oil... probably
foamy oil would indicate that you are getting water (coolant) mixed
with the oil.. am I right?

-- 
_____________     __      ____________ 
\_____      /    /_ \     \     _____/ Valentin Popescu
 \_____     \_____/  \____/     ____/  <vpopesc@opus.calstatela.edu>
  \______________      ____________/   P.O. Box 421181
From: jbauman@btr.btr.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Anyone tried the Code One radar jammer?
Date: 13 Aug 92 02:45:47 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: BTR Public Access UNIX, MtnView CA. Contact: Customer Service cs@BTR.COM



At a local Porsche swap meet, Shield Technology of Menlo Park, CA
was demonstrating their "Code One" radar jammer.  It seemed to work
great with the radar gun they had.  This unit is legal becuase it
does not transmit at a power great enough to upset the FCC and
require a license. 


Has anyone bought one of these and had a "real world" experience?
Demos are one thing.  So are independant lab reports.  I'm
curious to know if it *really* fools the fuzz long enough for
us to slow down.  When you're the only car on the road and
Smokey zaps you with the instant on and you're only 200 feet
away....well......even the best detector won't help.  But the
Code One?


Jim Bauman
jbauman@btr.com

PS: If I can get 50 of you to send me 10 bucks, I'll buy one, test it,
write an extensive, unbiased report and publish it on the net! B-)


Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: enns@waterloo.hp.com (Roger Enns)
Subject: Re: 240Z restoral (was: Datsun 240Z/260Z)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 13:59:38 GMT
Organization: HP Panacom Div Waterloo ON Canada
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1scd1 PL5


> What do you mean? What did they do to it?  I ask mostly
> because I just found a '78 280Z that is in desperate need of
> body work (according to the owner.  I havn't seen the car)
> but is drivable and 'runs good' (whatever that means:)  If
> this question is answered in the literature you said I'd get from the
> mailing list, I'll wait till I get it, but I'll need the question below ansered!

The 'rust-belt' is full of z-cars that are drivable, and 'run
good', in desperate need of body work.  These types of cars are
cheap to purchase and ideal as parts cars only (IMHO).  Unless
you enjoy injesting bondo dust and cutting your hands open on
rusted sheetmetal, don't make such a vehicle the basis for your
project.  Take a trip south and buy a rust-free version.  I found
many, many z-cars were for sale at very reasonable prices down in
the Atlanta area.  The bodies seemed in excellent shape.  Rent or
borrow a car trailer/dolly and head south.  Then drag one of these
babies back home, and base your project on it.
You can even find a driveable 280z and drive it back, if you
don't like the idea of trailering a car. 
You will thank yourself many, many times over for making
this trip (trust me, I've done it both ways...).

--
Roger Enns (enns@waterloo.hp.com) Panacom Automation Division, HP
C-GIIV Dragonfly, 1979 RX7 13B, 1985 Colt, 1984 Interceptor 500
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen)
Subject: Re: Lotus Elan vs Mercury Capri
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 92 13:15:05 GMT

In article <1992Aug13.004415.5728@nezsdc.icl.co.nz> derek@nezsdc.icl.co.nz (Derek Tearne) writes:
>Car          MPH    0-60MPH  BHP   MPG CC       
>Lotus Elan   137     6.7     165   33  1588    Front drive
>Non-turbo Elan               130
>Capri        106    11.9      82       1597    Front Wheel drive
>Capri(Turbo) 125     8.9     134       1597    Front Wheel drive
>MX-5         117     8.9     116   33  1597    Rear Drive. 
>Ford Mustang 144     7.4     225   16  4942 (For the guy with the comment
>					     about pus boxes)
>Lotus Esprit 163     4.7     246   22  2147(To show him how it should be 
>					     done)

these numbers vary a great deal, but i'm surprised that the turbo capri
is only as fast as a miata (which ain't no rocket).
according to motor tripe, the numbers are as follows:
car		      0-60     1/4 mile    braking  slalom   EPA city MPG
		       sec    sec    mph    ft      mph
lotus esprit x-180R   4.6     13.2  106.2   125    67.6   	17
mazda miata	      9.1     16.7   82.0   142    67.9		25
mercury capri XR2     7.4     15.8   90.4   137    67.9		23

a difference of .9 sec in the quarter mile is significant to me.
i don't know where you got those numbers for the capri, but it looks
more like numbers for a CRX Si vs CRX HF.  did they test this turbo capri
in hot weather?
maybe the cars are different in new zealand.  but i've driven the miata and
the capri XR2 (which has a turbo), and the capri is much faster.  the miata
has sweet handling, though.  too bad it just doesn't have the engine to go
with it.  now if it had the 302...

-teddy
Newsgroups: rec.autos