HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: J-HAYM@UMINN1.BITNET
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: alternatives to jointers
Date: 12 Aug 92 17:21:07 GMT
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU


 Re: Ted Podelnyk's inquiry about jointers

 I agree with Bill Nelson's comment that the width of the jointer is more
 important than how long the bed is; also his emphasis on using the machine
 for eliminating warps, twists, and cupping.

 For straightening the long edges of boards (eliminating crooks), I have
 gotten excellent results with a table saw. I do this fairly often. Whenever
 I saw a board in half lengthwise, both resulting pieces have a small crook
 in them due to the force being let out of the wood. I have a straight plywood
 reference board that I put the crooked board on top of, and the board is pushed
 up against 2 or 3 small nails on one side of the reference board. I set the
 tablesaw fence so that 1/32 - 1/16" is taken off the crooked board (or enough
 of a cut to eliminate the crook). The crooked board, of course, needs to over-
 hang the reference board. The result is a perfectly straight edge when the
 reference board is pushed through the saw up against the fence. For real long
 boards, a Cutter's Edge or Jointer's Edge guide can be used in place of the
 fence.
 Jon Hayman, University of Minnesota
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: weverka@spot.Colorado.EDU (Robert T. Weverka)
Subject: CHEAP velcro ROS disks (was Pourter Cable ROS info wanted)
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 11:31:04 GMT

>> In article <3214@bcstec.ca.boeing.com>, munoz@bcstec.ca.boeing.com (David
>> Munoz) writes:
>> |>
>> |> Although It's a good to be able to swap disk without wasting a sheet, I'd
>> compare
>> |> the cost of the sheets if I were you. I found that the stick-on types were
>> less
>> |> than half the cost of the velco ones.  For me, the re-usability wasn't
>> |> worth the large extra cost since a sheet dosen't last very long anyway.
> This
>> |> is especailly true for the finer grits.

Quaker State sells the velcro disks much cheaper than retail.
The Bosch 5 inch 8 hole velcro are $27 for 100 and shipping free
till August 31.  Ryobi 4.5 inch are also $27
  Yes, the sticky are cheaper- Porter Cable 5 inch $16 per 100

I personally like the velcro, but my local store sells them at
$5 for a package of 5.  so I'm about to stock up if nobody has
found a cheaper source.

BTW  Quaker State 1 800 776-5467

-Ted

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: An UnGrizzly Tale, and too tall stuff
Reply-To: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 92 23:43:10 GMT

In article <1992Aug12.134917.1@max.u.washington.edu> games@max.u.washington.edu writes:

>I notice that there is only a 10" discrepancy between the unit, and the 
>ceiling.  Will it not fit between the joists? (Typically 12" tall, and 16"
>on center?) 

Before anyone knocks holes in ceilings checking on this, I worked in
construction trades for nearly 15 years and I've never seen a house with
1x12 joists. I have seen several go up with 1x10s for the ground floor,
but 1x8s are much more commonly used. Both my house and my brother's
house here in NJ have 1x8 joists for the ground floor, and (in mine)
the second floor. Other houses I've worked on were in the Southeast U.S.

Perhaps things are different out west?

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | There are very few personal problems which
George Patterson -  | cannot be solved by a suitable application
                    | of high explosive.
                    |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: HELP! Can't find replacement belt for sander
Keywords: sander,belt
Date: 14 Aug 92 01:42:54 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <1992Aug13.151854.18815@stortek.com> bernie_marasco@stortek.com (bernie marasco) writes:
>I inherited a "Power House" hand belt sander Model #72110 from my father.
>It must be atleast 25 years old and I can't seem to find any replacement 
>belts for it (4" X 21 3/4").  Does anyone out in net land know of where 
>I might find a replacement belt?

Sears.

This is, I think (my 4 incher is in the garage) the standard size for
Sears 4" belt sanders.

The wood magazines do have belt manufacturers that either list this size,
or can make them for you reasonably cheaply.  Sears ain't cheap.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: rmingee@convex.com (Robert Mingee)
Subject: Another Bosch ROS question
Summary: any car buffs out there?
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 14:44:00 GMT
Organization: Engineering, CONVEX Computer Corp., Richardson, Tx., USA
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by a user at CONVEX Computer
              Corp. The opinions expressed are those of the user and
              not necessarily those of CONVEX.

although this one is not specifically related to woodworking...

I just bought a Bosch 5" random orbital sander, and was wondering if any other
owners of this beast had tried using theirs with the buffer pad on their cars.
If so, did you buy the soft pad to use instead of the medium one that comes on
the sander?  How well did it work?  Was it "random" enough to not leave swirls
on the car?  I have a car buffer that I have owned for a while, and figure that
I will unload it if the sander works well for the same task.

Thanks in advance for any info!

BTW, I really enjoy this newsgroup!  It is a great forum of polite and
experienced people who don't seem to get annoyed with rookies like me :-)

-- robert

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Robert Mingee		 |     "The problem with the future is that it keeps
CONVEX Computer Corp.    |	turning into the present"  -- Hobbes
rmingee@convex.com	 |
-- 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Robert Mingee		 |     "The problem with the future is that it keeps
CONVEX Computer Corp.    |	turning into the present"  -- Hobbes
rmingee@convex.com	 |
From: myjak@titan.ksc.nasa.gov (Michael D. Myjak)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Spray painting illegal? 
Date: 21 Aug 92 16:28:35 EST
Organization: NASA, Kennedy Space Center


I had an interesting experience lately, and I thought I'd share it
with the net. I am in the process of completing my first home
construction (complete with a seperate, air conditioned 16' x 20'
woodshop! :) and I have had a lot of problems with my drywall
installer.  But thats another story...

Any way, the latest bit of aggitation he has caused me is that he
called our local fire martial and told them that I had a (and I quote)
"... a spray painting outfit..." at my current (rental) residence and
the fire martial (by law) came to my current residence to verify the
complaint. "Check it out" so to speak. Mind you, all I do is use spray
cans and a few hand-applied finishes; in my new place, I have the shop
and garage plumbed for compressed air lines, and have reserved a space
in my single car garage (with addequate ventilation, mind you) for a
spray booth.  I intend to spray finish some furniture later on and
possibly something as large as an automobile... but nothing on a
regular basis.

Apparently, this is all illegal. In fact, when I asked for
clarification as to what, exactly, was legal, I was informed that "no
form of spray painting in a residential neighborhood" was legal.  So,
what gives? Joe Blo can walk into a local crapsman store and purchase
a portable compressor and spray gun and ... what? break the law if he
uses it? 

Has anybody else run into this situation? Is it truely "illegal" to
spray paint any finish (either air sprayer or mechnical sprayer) in
your area? 

-- 
- Michael D. Myjak			
  Senior Technical Specialist, Systems Analyst
  McDonnell Douglas Space Systems Company - KSC
  MYJAK@TITAN.KSC.NASA.GOV

Fea'ture N.  Distinction; Characteristic; Perculiarity (!)
             A bug with documentation.
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: chair/table
Date: 20 Aug 92 17:07:41 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

sine@sun.acs.udel.edu writes:
>>I am looking for plans for a Colonial style chair/table (don't know if
>>it has another name).  This is a piece in which the back of the chair
>>flips down to form the table top.  I've only been woodworking for a
>>little over a year, so I'm not ready for anything too complex, but I'd
>>like to take a look at a variety of plans.

Chris Lewis writes:
>I think they're simply called "chair-tables".  I believe that they
>originated with the Shakers who made things simple, but with multiple
>functions.  Several of Thomas Moser's books have plans for them.

Well talk about your good timings.  If you are a viewer of The New Yankee
Workshop, featuring everyone's favorite power-tool-packrat, Norm Abram,
there is an upcoming episode whose project is listed in my PBS program 
guide as "Chair Table."  As Norm is rather fond of things Shaker, I can
well imagine that this would be the very sort of thing he would build.
If you are in the NJ area and/or get NJN, this particular program will
be broadcast on 9/5 at 8pm and repeated on 9/10 at 9:30pm.  Check with
your local PBS affiliate for local scheduling. You can always write for 
a measured drawing of the projects or a drawing plus video tape.

Dave
-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
The heart and the mind on a parallel course, never the two shall meet.
						-E. Saliers
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: roe@ll.mit.edu ( Ted Roe)
Subject: Re:      Water based top coats, paste fillers.
Organization: MIT Lincoln Laboratory
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 92 17:37:24 GMT

I recently used a Min-wax polyacrylic water based finish for an oak
croquet mallet head. I was very pleased. It did raise the grain a
little, but dried fast, clear, hard, and with little or no bubbles. I
used a 3M scouring-type-pad (advertised to be used for roughing up the
finish between coats) with great success.

The mallet takes quite a beating, so I appreciate how easy and quick
it is to add a new couple of coats.
-- 
 .-----        /     .--.                  Lincoln Laboratory, Group 91
(  /  __   __ /     ( /  )   __   __       (617) 981-5685 Millstone
  /  /__) /  /       /--<   /  ) /__)      (617) 981-4271 L-190
 /  (___ (__(_      /    \ (__/ (___       roe@ll.mit.edu
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: crown moulding
Date: 13 Aug 92 18:20:25 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

In article <1992Aug12.144608.15780@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> 
	patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com writes:
>In article <9208112023.AA00316@pres1> "Robert J. Milevski" 
	<milevski@PRINCETON.EDU> writes:
>
>>I like all these uses of crown moulding but with our standard eight
>>foot ceilings for modern construction, it would look like hell, or so
>>my wife says.  So, no crown moulding in any of our homes.
>
>I put up 3.5" crown moulding in my living room. It looks beautiful with
>a 8' ceiling.


Sorry, George, but we can't buy that.  You are up against the irrifutable
authority of "the wife".  "The wife" is never wrong.  Your living room
looks like hell.  You just don't know it. ;-) ;-) ;-)

Dave
(No, I don't have a wife, but when I need such advice, I borrow my
 friend's.  Then I send her home and do it my way.)

-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
The heart and the mind on a parallel course, never the two shall meet.
						-E. Saliers
From: bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Router table
Date: 14 Aug 92 15:59:59 GMT
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Distribution: na
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated

games@max.u.washington.edu writes
> In article <1122@ceylon.gte.com>, boykin@gte.com (Joseph Boykin) writes:
> > I'm looking for a good quality router table.  ...
> > I'm looking for something about 2' deep
> > by 3' wide.  Very solid, on a stand, and with a good fence.
> > 
> > I know I can build one, but with the limited amount of time I have
> > to work in my shop, I would rather produce toys/gifts/whatever
> > rather than something for the shop itself.
> 
> Eagle has a router table with a milled aluminum fence that appears from the
> brochure to be a cut above.  I haven't seen it in person, but it is on par  
with
> a lot of other router tables in terms of cost.  (I think it was $199)
> 
> Sorry, I can't remember eagle americas 800 phone number.

Eagle America is at 800-872-2511.

Another place to check out is Woodhaven, at 800-344-6657. Their main business  
is router tables, from free standing jobs to ones that fit as tablesaw  
extension tables. In addition to complete systems, they now sell the individual  
components (tops of various sizes with or without holes, insert plates with or  
without holes, guards, fences, dust collection attachments, starting pins,  
etc.) separately. What's nice about this is that you can decide how much you  
want to do yourself, and how much you want them to do.

For instance, they will sell you a template that will enable you to cut the  
proper hole for their insert plates in any table top. They will also sell you  
just the fence, with bit clearance hole and dust collection stuff; or they will  
sell you just the aluminum stock for the fence by the running foot - you have  
to cut the holes, etc. They also sell "router gadgets" like dowel makers, wood  
threaders, etc.

-Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com

I have no connection, other than as occassional customers, to either Eagle  
America or Woodhaven.

"And remember this: there's no more important safety rule than to wear these -  
safety glasses."
From: tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Emperor Clock Kits - any experiences?
Date: 19 Aug 92 22:50:33 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Arizona UNIX Users Group


I would be very careful about buying clock kits...    A lot of them
look fine at first,  but after you go through all the work of assembling
them, finishing them, installing the clockworks, and winding it up,  you
find that the darn things are bug infested.  Almost all of 'em develop ticks.
From: smb@ulysses.att.com (Steven Bellovin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Exposed wiring and the NEC.
Date: 21 Aug 92 02:01:51 GMT
Distribution: na

In article <1992Aug20.192856.4732@philabs.philips.com>, mja@philabs.philips.com (Michael Amato) writes:
> Yes, they make a fitting that looks like a thin wall straight coupling but
> has a romex compression clamp on the other end. Does that make sense?
> 
>           pipe - set screw + romex fitting - romex

I've never used or seen any such thing -- when I've used conduit, it's
been with pulled wires.  I confess that I had envisioned some sort of
snap-on plastic bushing, though your device would certain make sense,
especially if it's also serving as the clamp to hold the cable into the
box.

> I will be running 12/3 to the outlets (to have 220 available)
> and will also need a return. That makes six conductors and two grounds. 
> certainly can't get that into one 1/2" thin wall pipe, but will 3/4 be enough?

Um.  If you run two cables through the same conduit, you'll almost certainly
have to derate -- there's more heat build-up.  If I recall correctly,
there's some provision about wires being run together more than 24" in
an enclosed space.
From: tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: A fire safety reminder
Date: 19 Aug 92 03:58:51 GMT
Distribution: na, usa, world
Organization: University of Arizona UNIX Users Group

In article <1992Aug18.232140.22582@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com> billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson) writes:
>clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis) writes:
>: 
>: My favourite is:
>: 	The wife cleans something with gasoline, and pours the result
>: 	into the toilet.  Hubby comes home for a sitdown, lights up a
>:      etc....
>
>This is one variation, of many, of an urban legend. See alt.folklore.urban
>for more details.
>
>Bill

Why is it that you can't tell a story nowadays without somebody
saying "That's an urban legand" ???   Why do they insist on running
around with a label-o-matic and hanging that appelation on anything
that has the form?

P.S. "This is one variation, of many, of a rhetorical question.  See
alt.get.alife for more details. Send anwsers to rhetorical questions
to /dev/null."
From: twl10@ccc.amdahl.com (Tom Littauer)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: edging for plywood
Date: 17 Aug 92 18:26:26 GMT
Reply-To: twl10@JUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Tom Littauer)
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

In article <4120227@bailey.UUCP> ben@bailey.UUCP (Ben Bailey) writes:
> ...
>
>I've recently seen an ad in Woodworker's Supply (June 92 pg 87) that
>describes 'thick, solid wood T-Molding strips' that looks like it might
>do the job.
>
>Has anyone had any experience with these?

No, but I've done the equivalent... routed out a slot in the plywood and
applied solid wood with a tongue (dado blade on saw) with just yellow glue.

Worked fine.
 
>Any other suggestions?  (Seen any good articles, books relating to this?)

My woodworking books suggest that dado/tongue-and-groove is the strongest
joint for plywood (if my memory is still holding up :-)

Have fun,
Tom
-- 
Tom Littauer at Amdahl M/S 278, PO Box 3470, Sunnyvale CA 94088-3470 USA
+1 408 737 5056     twl10@juts.ccc.amdahl.com     twl10@amail.amdahl.com
I'll tell you when I'm speaking as Amdahl's Spokesman - usually I'm not.
V'z n fgrnygu-grpuabybtl rapelcgrq .fvtangher ivehf - TBGPUN!!!
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mja@philabs.philips.com (Michael Amato)
Subject: Re: edging for plywood
Originator: mja@hercules
Reply-To: mja@philabs.philips.com (Michael Amato)
Organization: Philips Laboratories, Briarcliff, NY 10510
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 15:56:52 GMT


In article <Aug.15.15.43.17.1992.5318@pilot.njin.net>, ron@pilot.njin.net (Ron Natalie) writes:
|> > I haven't been pleased with my results in placing wood edges around
|> > plywood.  
|> 
|> I use the preglued veneer stuff.  It works ok for me.  I use a small
|> hand iron (the kind they sell for such purposes) that I got second
|> hand for $10.

I find this works great too. 
|> 
|> > Also, biscuits wouldn't seem to me to work well with plywood, but I've
|> > never tried.  Do you have an opinion regarding this?
|> 
|> I was initially skeptical about that, so I made a test piece.  Using
|> three bicuits I joined 2 36" wide 3/4" plywood pieces at right angles.
|> I was not able to break the joint.  I've got a number of plywood
|> bookcases now that are held together with biscuits.  None exhibits
|> any problems.
|> 
|> My initial reference for all this was an article on plywood furniture
|> constructions that's in one of the FineWoodworking anthologies.
|> 
|> -Ron

Never tried the biscuits, but I dado or router out the joints, glue and if
you think it's needed, tack. The pre-glued (plasticised?) vener will cover 
over the dado joint making it look like a but joint. I like this method because
it hides impecfections at the joint and is relatively easy.
-- 
+-----------------------------------------------------------------+
| Michael Amato  DoD#0639 | "If pro is the opposite of con,       |
| mja@philabs.philips.com | then what is Congress"? - Will Rogers |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: Bob Zigon <bobz@truevision.com>
Subject: Is it ok to wetsand wood?
Organization: Truevision, Inc., Indianapolis, IN
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 14:23:02 GMT


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: twl10@ccc.amdahl.com (Tom Littauer)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: bending wood
Summary: steam
Date: 19 Aug 92 19:21:14 GMT
Reply-To: twl10@JUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Tom Littauer)
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

In article <1992Aug19.063021.19782@mr.med.ge.com> bednarek@picard.med.ge.com (Dennis Bednarek Mfg 4-6971) writes:
>Les Bartel (lester@naomi.NoSubdomain.NoDomain) wrote:
>: What is the best way to bend wood?  I need to make a smooth 90 degree
>: bend on a piece of wood 1 x 3/8 x 8 (the board is longer than this, but
>: the bend must occur in 8 inches).  I soaked the wood in water for
>: about a day and it developed creases in the bend.
>
>I have not worked with anything thicker than about 3/16 when trying a tight
>bend like 90deg in 8". And even at that I usually soak the wood for about
>five days.

Try steam bending instead. Use a length of PVC pipe as your steam cabinet
and a tea kettle or pressure cooker or wallpaper steamer as your steam
source.

>:               Would it be a good idea to build a jig that has the
>: same radius as the bend, and use that as a form?
>
>That depends on how accurate and neat you need the bend.  If it has to stay
>at a fixed radius  I would strongly recommend that

If you do this, remember that you'll likely get a little springback, so make
the jig a hair tighter than the final.

Have fun,
Tom
-- 
Tom Littauer at Amdahl M/S 278, PO Box 3470, Sunnyvale CA 94088-3470 USA
+1 408 737 5056     twl10@juts.ccc.amdahl.com     twl10@amail.amdahl.com
I'll tell you when I'm speaking as Amdahl's Spokesman - usually I'm not.
V'z n fgrnygu-grpuabybtl rapelcgrq .fvtangher ivehf - TBGPUN!!!
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stq@cbnewsi.cb.att.com (scott.t.questad)
Subject: Re: woodworking club in No. NJ?
Organization: AT&T
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 13:53:59 GMT
Keywords: club, No. NJ, woodworking

In article <Aug.9.01.48.26.1992.3983@pilot.njin.net>, furr@pilot.njin.net (Grover Furr) writes:
> 
> 	I'm looking for a woodworking club in No. NJ. If you know of
> one, or if you are looking for one, too, post a reply (I know others
> are interested in this question as well.


I'm interested as well, however, I live near Trenton - Newark/Montclair
is a decent trip.

-Scott

Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-Vmsmail-To: SMTP%"WOODWORK%IPFWVM.BITNET@pucc.Princeton.EDU"
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 21 Aug 1992 10:01:39 -0600
From:         BOULAN@TECHNET.NM.ORG
Subject:      Re: chair/table
X-To:         WOODWORK%IPFWVM.BITNET@pucc.Princeton.EDU

FROM WHAT I REMEMBER, THIS PIECE OF FURNITURE WAS CALLED A SETTLE TABLE. I
HAVE BUILT A COUPLE OUT OF PINE, BUT WILL HAVE TO LOOK FOR THE PLANS SINCE
IT WAS A NUMBER OF YEARS AGE. I ALSO RECALL A COMPANY IN CHICAGO THAT
 SPECIALIZES
IN FURNITURE PLANS HAVING A DESIGN FOR A ROUND SETTLE TABLE. I'LL LOOK THAT
UP FOR YOU ALSO AND GET BACK TO YOU.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: rdc@world.std.com (Ralph D Clifford)
Subject: Re: Reproduction of letters (was: Grizzly etc.)
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
Distribution: usa, na
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 12:51:31 GMT

In article <1992Aug17.051841.10961@organpipe.uug.arizona.edu> tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin) writes:
>
>Funny, our University aheld a day long seminar on Patents, Copyrights,
>and Inventions, in which they assured us that anything we send out
>WITHOUT "(C) Copyring Date Whom" is in the public domain and fair
>game.


     This is not true in general.  The only time the lack of a copyright
message looses the author that author's copyright is when the letter is 
published by the author.  Merely sending the letter to a single recepient
would not be publication and, therefore, the author's copyright would still be
valid.  Publication is defined to be "distribution of copies [of the work] to
the public."  17 U.S.C. 101.

     FYI -- I teach computer law, property law and intellectual property law
at S. New England School of Law to pay for my woodworker's habit.

Ralph Clifford

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking