HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: laurence@cco.caltech.edu (Dustin Lee Laurence)
Subject: Re: aquarium cooling
Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1992 21:42:40 GMT

glee@athena.mit.edu (Gilbert Huppert) writes:

[using a small fridge to cool an aquarium]

>Sorry, but this won't work very well.  If you think about it, there
>are two good reasons (especially if you are running a marine tank): 1)
>heat transfer will be quite poor, 2) capacity is very low.  A dorm fridge
>is not meant to constantly remove heat from a large aquarium (I am assuming
>that you are not worried about a 10 gallon tank).  This type of device is
>designed to remove small amounts of heat once in a while, and maintain
>a constant temperature, not at all like your air conditioner.  If you do a
>back of the envelope calculation, you will find that you *might* be able
>to get a 3-4 degree temperature drop, under the best conditions (for a 
>tank of 50-70 gallons).

Uh, have you actually done this?  I know of someone who was able to
run a 26 gal reef in a dorm room that stayed about 85F or better
during the day.  I'll have to ask how much the temp was lowered, but
I got the impression that it was by a considerable amount (albeit in
a small tank).  And of course, he ran it continuously.

-- 
Dustin Laurence            "Someone please stop me, before I net again."

laurence@alice.wonderland.caltech.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: gt0963d@prism.gatech.EDU (Deeptendu Majumder)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: bettas in a bowl..
Date: 14 Apr 92 13:55:55 GMT
Organization: The Dream Chasers Syndicate

I did want to add a few words to my earlier comments on this
topic.

John said:
>As for Betta's.  They can and do live in small bodies of water.
>However, I do get very upset when I see them on display at fish
>stores in clear "dixie" cups. 

This is actually something I can relate to and Yes it makes me
feel sad to see that the Betta sits there twisted in a Yoga
posture inside the bowl. I have a tendency to walk upto Bettas
and try to engage them in some sort "play". But in those small
things the Bettas sit there like a zombie staring at me because
it cannot move.

When I said that Bettas can live in a bowl I did not mean a bowl
like that..I mean why would somebody put Betta in a bowl where one
cannot see it move ?? I would not mind keeping it in a 1 gallon
bowl with water changes..

>But truthfully, they do make a beautiful addition to a community
>tank (provided you only have 1 at a time)

Yes..my betta has a tendency to hang around the water filter's
waterfall (it has the option of doing otherwise)..It looks real
pretty with all its huge fins spread out, curving and twisting with
the flow..and when it moves there is so much elegance to it..
At times it is amusing to see the way it chases other fishes as
long the other fishes are fast and retreating type ..

The bettas in petstore's community tank always look depressing,
small and sick..They can have such a reagal presence if you let
them..

Yes "sadness" is probably the right feeling that crosses my
mind when I see those things staring dumbly at me without being
able to do anything..inside those "dixie cups"

d.

-- 
------
"Like a harsh neon streaking  through the velvet darkness 
the whetted knife of Life tore its path through her Dreams"
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: MAH2033@TNTECH.BITNET
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Darters
Date: 9 Apr 92 18:47:00 GMT

Hi there,
        I am a Graduate student in the biology department at Tennessee Tech
University.  My thesis project is dealing with larval darters.  My question
is, have any of you out there had any experience with stripping eggs from
darters, fertilizing them, and rearing the larvae?  I attempted this once
(Etheostoma vitreum) and got them up to about 10mm TL, but they all died.
Any help at all would be much appreciated, especially on care and feeding of
the larvae.  I do not have a newsfeed, so please reply via E-mail.

Thanks,

Mark Hartman
MAH2033@TNTECH.Bitnet
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:3867 alt.aquaria:3053
From: 34ML2OB@CMUVM.CSV.CMICH.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Fish bowls; Good for Snail Breeding?
Date: 13 Apr 92 14:57:12 GMT
Article-I.D.: CMUVM.92104.10571234ML2OB
Organization: Central Michigan University

After following many posts about fish bowls, I think I might have
found a legitmate use for one: Snail breeding.  I have a green-
spotted puffer who is addicted to snails. So I try to keep a large
supply in the 1 gallon bowl (with UGF). They are breeding, I just
hope I can get enough to grow up to satisfy the puffer's appetite.
I do have a single baby black molly in the bowl that I plan to
keep there until she is big enough not to become lunch for somebody
in one of the bigger tanks.

Coments, Encouragement, Criticisms, and Suggestions Welcome.
Susan Peterson 34ml2ob@CMUVM.CSV.CMICH.EDU
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:3726 alt.aquaria:2964
From: laurence@cco.caltech.edu (Dustin Lee Laurence)
Subject: Re: How many aquarists in the U.S. or the world?
Keywords: aquarists, U.S. world
Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 19:36:29 GMT

shine@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (stephen.c.shine) writes:

>I believe there's a law that specifies all killifish keepers must 
>maintain a minimum fish count of at least 100 adult fish and 100 
>fry.  The penalty for not maintaining these levels is tying the
>offender to a chair and having Oleg chant the last one thousand 
>"Splashing Around With Sally" articles to you, to the tune of "Row
>your boat".

You know, when I first entered the hobby and read SAWS, I wondered
what it was for...now I know.

-- 
Dustin Laurence            "Someone please stop me, before I net again."

laurence@alice.wonderland.caltech.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: frazier@oahu.cs.ucla.edu (Greg Frazier)
Subject: Re: Rise in Ph
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 92 16:54:36 GMT

graue@bgsu.edu (Louis Graue) writes:

>fish tank the water becomes  ph of 7.8.  Each time I change  off some of the
>water the ph goes down but after a few days rises.  What causes this?  What
>can I do about it?

Since you are concerned about rising pH, I'll assume that this
is a freshwater tank.  There are two possibilties that come to
mind.

The first is that your watercomes out of the tap with a lot
of CO2 (carbon dioxide - the '2' is subscripted) dissolved
in it.  This can happen, particularly if you have well-water.
CO2 forms carbonic acid when dissolved and drops the pH.  However,
it is not stable and will leave the water until it reaches
close to equilibrium.  To test this, draw some tapwater into
a clean glass, test the pH, then airate it for a few hours and
test again.

The second possibility is that you have a decoration in your tank
that is dissolving: dolomite, curshed coral or sea shells in your
gravel; limestone, marbel or plaster rocks/decorations; large
coral or sea shells, etc.  These substances are composed of
or have in them carbonate salts, which dissolve.  The carbonates
increase the conbonate hardness (KH) of your water and raise
the pH.  Actually, I'm not too sure about the plaster part -
whatever.  Often you can eyeball the culprit - if you can't
figure out what is raising your pH, you'll have to take the
items out of your tank one at a time and test them.  You can
either drip acid onto the item (vinegar can be strong enough
to do the trick, pH-down is better) and see if it fizzes, or
you can draw some tapwater into a clean glass, measure the pH,
put the item into the glass and let it sit for a day or two
and measure the pH again.

Good luck!
-- 


Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: erno@mrcnext.cso.uiuc.edu (Erno Pena)
Subject: Recommendations for planting a 20L aquarium ...
Reply-To: erno@mrcnext.cso.uiuc.edu
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 03:20:36 GMT

What short growing plants would be recommended for planting in a 20L  
aquarium? So far people's suggestions and pictures in books lead to:

Echinodorus Tenellus
Echinodorus Quadrapistatus (sp?)
Anubias Barteri
Anubias Nana
Java Moss
Java Fern

What else?

Before I indulge myself with a big plant tank setup, I think I'm going to  
test out my knowledge first on a small scale with a 20L aquarium which is  
currently sitting in my girlfriend's garage. I figure that I can better  
handle the small aquarium with its smaller penalties for mistakes than with a  
bigger, more expensive setup. If the 20L works out, I'll just move most of  
the equipment over to a used 40 gallon breeder tank and start again on a  
slightly larger scale, with bigger and more numerous plants.

Anyway, I'd appreciate any suggestions for plants for a 20L aquarium.

Thanks

--

E r n e s t o   F.   B.   P e n a
---------------------------------
erno@uiuc.edu   NeXTmail accepted
From: mwerling@linus.umd.edu (Michael T. Werling)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Novice questions...
Keywords: newbie tenderfoot wet-behind-the-ears
Date: 7 Apr 92 21:05:26 GMT
Distribution: usa

Hi there.  I am a novice aquarium keeper and am looking to have a few 
questions answered.  I have been following this group for a while, but
have not seen a FAQ or an archive to download it from, so please excuse
my simple questions.

My setup:  A 10 gal freshwater tank with the basic starter kit they see
	packaged at pet shops.  For fish I have a tiger barb, a red tailed
	shark, and 3 swordtails (sorry, no latin). 
        I do 20% water changes every week and a half
	or so, depending on my schedule.  Filtration is by a corner bubbler
	with floss and ammonia-carb.  All of this was what my local pet
	store reccomended.

After I get more experience I will be looking to make a more interesiting 
environment, but right now a few basic questions:

-Any thing I am forgetting?  I check ph regularly, but not ammonium/nitirate
 levels (whatever the chemicals are)  I am just checking b/c I want to start 
 out right, so I dont screw it up later (I have already killed a few fish
 just trying to get running).

-One of my swordtails is pregnant, has been for about 4 weeks.  I have put
 it in a net breeder cage with a couple of small plants.  What special 
 things need I do for it, and the fry when they start showing up?

Any and all suggestions are appreciated, try to be gentle in your criticisms,
you might damage my fragile ego :-)
From: graue@bgsu.edu (Louis Graue)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: How long do fish live?
Date: 17 Apr 92 16:17:27 GMT
Organization: Bowling Green State University B.G., Oh.

I have several beginners books but none of them answer the question of how
long one can expect their fish to live.  In particular, I am interested to
know how long I can expect angelfish, swoardtail, and danio  fish to live
in a home aquarium.

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: laurence@cco.caltech.edu (Dustin Lee Laurence)
Subject: Re: [M] Cheap Calcium?
Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1992 08:04:58 GMT

pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Paul A Prior) writes:

>In article <1924@ra.nrl.navy.mil> tse@ra.nrl.navy.mil (Anthony Tse) writes:

>>...and 1 kilo of Sodium BiCarb.  The DEA is probably on my back
>>already, all those white powder.

>I know I always get nervous when I get out my graduated cylinders and 
>syringes (test kits) and CaOH2 powder and start doing fish things...I
>often expect the door to be broken down some night after someone reports
>me as a drug dealer/user <50% G>

Hmm.  Hadn't thought about this in connection with the fact that I
bought two syringes with needles as part of my war on little brown
mushrooms --I only have a few, but I'm trying to keep them from
gaining a foothold.  This is plan II: chemical warfare.

Of course, if someone notices the white powder and needles, then I
won't have to worry about it.

>What grade of CaCl2 did you two purchase?  What are the impurity 
>levels?

I bought reagent grade.  The impurities are listed by type, so I
can't summarize well.  I think that most were in the 1e-3 range for
the CaCl2, and an order of magnitude more impure for the Ca(OH)2.

I called Tullock's store (someone whom I knew would answer questions)
to ask about stuff like this, and he said that most of the chemicals
used in commercial products are food grade, which is usually worse than
reagent grade.  FWIW.

Also, I need to correct my previous post.  Everywhere I said CaCl2,
I should have said CaCl2 * 2(H2O) --Calcium chloride dihydrate.

-- 
Dustin

laurence@alice.wonderland.caltech.edu
Organization: Central Michigan University
Date: Wednesday, 15 Apr 1992 18:20:25 EDT
From: <34ML2OB@CMUVM.CSV.CMICH.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: [F] Pregnant platy: Anything else I can do?

I have a pregnant platy. I put her in a net breeding box with one of
those plastic breeding grass things, in the community 14 gal tank.
I feed her a little more regularly than the rest of the crew. Is there
any thing else I can do for her? I considered reading Winnie the Pooh
but I don't think that would do any good, *wink*  I am under extreme
financial constraints so buying a separate tank is out of the question.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: laurence@cco.caltech.edu (Dustin Lee Laurence)
Subject: Re: [M] Cheap Calcium?
Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 03:42:30 GMT

tse@ra.nrl.navy.mil (Anthony Tse) writes:

>   You sure as hell can't buy any saturated CaCl2 from a fish store.
>The bottle stuff in fish store has pretty low concentration.  Patti
>told me someone put in a whole 16oz bottle of X-brand CaCl2 and raised
>the Ca level by 40ppm.  I dissolve 6 table spoon of CaCl2 in 16 oz
>of water.  I give the bottle a nice long squeeze every day when
>I fill up my pepsi drip bottle for evaporation, still can't get my
>Ca level up to 400ppm.

Of course.  Like everything else in the trade, this is a Luxury Item at
Luxury prices.  I bought 500g of CaCl2 * 2(H20) for $8.00 US.  It'll
probably last me a century, even if I don't use the 500g of Ca(OH)2 I
bought for $10.00US to use for comparison.  You don't expect the
aquarium trade to sell you a product for what it's worth, do you?

Cursed share-the-wealth communist.  Try to deny an honest businessman
his profit...    :) :)


-- 
Dustin

laurence@alice.wonderland.caltech.edu
From: colorado@venus.next.com (Delia Colorado (Temp))
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: help!...goldfish in fishbowl
Date: 14 Apr 92 21:51:48 GMT


> > No matter what, it's still rather cruel to keep bettas in fish  
>>bowl.  Just because they CAN survive in them is no reason to make  
>>them do so.  The best advice is to totally abolish fishbowls.   
>>Unless you happen to have the time to kill to change the water  
>>every hour or so.

> I do not seem to understand this thing. Some people post saying  
Bettas are
> natural resident of mud holes. And some other SPCA type would decry  
the idea
> of Bettas in a bowl. Agreed a betta might have more freedom in a  
bigger tank
> (mine is in 10 gal) and looks nicer for sure. But why should it br  
cruel to
> put it in a small bowl if that is their natural habitat. Is it  
right to
> judge other's feeling of comfort or discomfort in term of ours ???? 
> 
> comments ?
> 
> d.
> 
> 
> ps: These days there seem to be a tendency to generalize our  
feelings, etc. etc.

I think you are very right.  As long as the water is changed every  
three or four days, and fed moderately, they can live fine in a 1/2  
gal. of water, even less.  I don't like it when pet stores put them  
in a cup of water, but that is usually just temporary, until someone  
buys them, so it is really not too bad.  There is really no cruelty  
involved here, and the idea of having to change their water every  
hour or so is an outrageous  exaggeration. What is cruel is to put  
the Betta with other fish his own size or smaller that destroy his  
fins.  I've seen this many times.  Also, make sure to keep him warm;  
they can't stand cold temperatures.
Enjoy your fish!!
Delia
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: jimh@ultra.com (Jim Hurley)
Subject: Re: Culturing pond organisms.
Keywords: culture, daphnia, grammarus, cyclops
Organization: Ultra Network Technologies
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 92 19:05:58 GMT

In <18500@smoke.brl.mil> moss@brl.mil (Gary S. Moss <moss>) writes:

>Hi,
>	A visit down to the local park last weekend revealed a pretty good
>source for daphnia, grammarus and cyclops.  I have a copy of "The Encylocedia
>of Live Foods", 
[...]
>-Gary

How do you know you're not getting bad stuff with the good?
I always wanted to go hunting for small wildlife like this
but I never felt like risking a tank.
Small hydra might not be easy to see and maybe there's a bad strain
of bacteria, fungus, or algae.

-- 
Jim Hurley --> jimh@ultra.com  ...!ames!ultra!jimh  (408) 922-0100
Ultra Network Technologies / 101 Daggett Drive / San Jose CA 95134
From: tarmstro@metz.une.oz.au (tarmstro)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: (M) Biolife `Wet/Dry' Filter
Summary: expensive
Date: 9 Apr 92 05:25:41 GMT

In article <1992Apr8.210124.25740@menudo.uh.edu>, st1ee@Elroy.UH.EDU writes:
> Well I've never used one myself, but I was thinking about getting one
> for one of my tanks.  I will say this, though, $250 seems awfully expensive
> As far as I know there are only 2 different kinds: Biolife 35 & Biolife 55.
> You can mail order the 55 for as low as $84.  Gee, coulda bought 3 for 
> $250. ;).  Anyways, I too would be interested to hear if anyone has had any
> personal experience with them.
> 
> Bart
> st1ee@jetson.uh.edu

Yeh, $250.00 is expensive, but that is just one of the joys we get from
living in Australia!! All aquarium equipment is much more expensive
than in the US. I think fish prices may be a little cheaper though!
Wait till my friend hears that a similar filter (55) costs only $84.00.
in the US. His tank is still cycling with the new filter, so.........
I have my suspicions (as did another netter) that the capacity will be overated.I also am `not sure' about the unit being internal. I do not know why, just
gives me an uneasy feeling.

Tim
tarmstro@metz.une.oz.au
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: glee@athena.mit.edu (Gilbert Huppert)
Subject: Re: It must be that time of year-Anemone spawning?
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 21:49:37 GMT

Steve Tyreewrites:
>   I am not an expert on coral/anenome spawning, but its possible that your
>  anenome is male. Some species are only one sex and require a member of the
>  opposite sex for a completed spawning. So does anyone have a female anenome
>  for Gregs male ?
>
> Steve Tyree - Practicing Reef Breeder

Of course we would need to know what species the anemone was.  I used to have
an atlantic anemone (condylactis?) which released what were clearly eggs about
6 weeks ago.  Unfortunately, this anemone refused to stay put even when I fed
it twice a week.  It eventually moved on top of a power-head, and although mostly
undamaged, I got rid of it (since it was not wedged between rocks for the first
time in 6 months).  It may be that my anemone needed a mate, it may just be
that the fish ate the eggs, or the spawn may all have ended up in the filter, 
but I have seen no evidence of progeny.



--
Gilbert Lee Huppert (glee@athena.mit.edu)
Materials Etching Technology Laboratory
From: grabrick@plains.NoDak.edu (George Grabrick)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: ftp site for gif files of fish
Date: 9 Apr 92 08:02:08 GMT
Article-I.D.: plains.16566
Organization: North Dakota State University, Fargo

I seem to have lost the info about the ftp sites that contain the gif files of
different fish.  If anyone still has a copy of the sites, could you please 
either e-mail them to me, or repost them.

Thanks in advance,
George Grabrick
-- 
George Grabrick              Internet: grabrick@plains.NoDak.edu
          To improve the golden moment of opportunity
          and to catch the good that is within our reach,
          is the great art of life.     -Samuel Johnson
From: sylvia@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (Sylvia Budak)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: (M) Help, could it be copper?
Date: 14 Apr 92 15:27:37 GMT
Article-I.D.: hplvec.2800150
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO



   For about a year now I have been battling an unknown as yet problem with
my 55 gal marine tank.  After changing over to a large trickle filter and 
adding a large protien skimmer, I am still losing the battle.  All the usual 
water tests indicate my water quality is good.  Still, the only critter that 
has survived it all is my percula clown.  Actually that is a lie, I had another
clown in the tank that grew too big and was bullying my little percula so he 
went back to the store.  Anemonies ALWAYS die in my tank as do any inverts.  My
ROCK ANEMONIES are even dieing!  The death occurs slowly over several weeks in 
the case of the desireable anemonies, the six month rock anemonies and mushroom
polyps are still just barely hanging on.  Shrimp last about four months.  

   I have a new theory on what the problem is.  I started using distilled water
about nine months ago.  Since then I changed over to the TF and started using
the protien skimmer.  None of the changes I made improved the condition of the
invertebrates in the tank.  Well gee, I keep thinking and writing that the 
inverts die and the fish don't have a problem.  This really smells like a copper
problem doesn't it?  I did test the water for copper and didn't detect any, but
then the Seatest kit I have is difficult to read.  My polyfilters do turn a 
brownish green.  Could they be removing copper?  I talked to a water analyst
yesterday on the phone and asked how much a complete water test would cost me.
He told me about $179.  When I told him I wanted the water checked for heavy
metals and that I was using distilled water he told me distilled water is very
corrosive and that it could easily have heavy metals in it.  Depending on how
the water is collected (i.e. with copper tubing) it could have a fair amount
of metals in it.  He suggested I use RO water instead.  Well, I am going to 
try this next.  Does anyone know of any problems with using bottled RO water 
from the store?

   Actually I think someone cautioned my about distilled water quite some time
ago.  I should have given it more thought at the time.

If there is a very small concentration of copper in the tank, will I ever
get it out?  Do I have to toss my decorative coral?  What about the bare tank
itself?  Any advise would be GREATLY appreciated.


Thanks,

Sylvia
From: greg@enterprise.Central.Sun.COM (Greg George  Area SSE - Midwest Area)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Biological Filtration
Date: 13 Apr 92 12:30:30 GMT
Organization: "Sun Microsystems, Mt. View, CA."
NNTP-Posting-Host: enterprise.central.sun.com

>One: how are you managing to get a protein skimmer to run on a freshwater
>system?  (i.e. if it really works, what's the manufacturer and model and
>price 'cause I will be getting me one!)

Sorry if there was any mis-interpretation. I do not mess with
freshwater tanks, I have a salt water setup that I use the protein
skimmer in.

>Two: how are you managing to decrease the nitrates level with a protein
>skimmer?  I though protein skimmers only pulled organic carbons out of the
>water and the idea was to get them out before they break down to ammonia and
>get metabolized to nitrate by the bacterial beds...

You may be misinformed: fish excrete ammonia into their environment,
this ammonia is broken down into nitrite by nitrifying bacteria,
the nitrite is further broken down by other bacteria into nitrate.
In relatively high levels, it is ok for fish but not invertabrates.
Plants can handle your nitrate levels if you have a large number/fish.
From my observations, my nitrate levels have dropped dramatically
since adding a protein skimmer. My levels were ~ 40ppm without the
skimmer. With the skimmer running twice a week, my nitrate levels
now hover at < 5 ppm.

greg
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:3720 alt.aquaria:2959 sci.aquaria:796