HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: walkerr@yaya.WPI.EDU (Robert A Walker)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: 351M
Date: 28 Sep 1992 19:59:31 GMT
Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute
NNTP-Posting-Host: yaya.wpi.edu

I recently bought a '78 Ford Bronco with a 351M.  The engine had 156,000 miles on it.  The reason I bought it was because it was the car I wanted and was virtually rust free.  I figured that the engine would last me throught this school
year, but it didn't.  I somehow ended up wiht an oil pan full of coolant.
Now the head gasket didn't blow, because I've dimantled teh engine that far
Now my question is, how did all that water get in my oil pan.  If it is a 
cracked block, of which there is no evidence of YET,  how much will a block
from the junk yard run me.  And how much will it cost for it to be machined.
Also will there be any advatages to getting a 400M.  Like will the loss in 
mileage be made up for in power and such.  Anybody know of any good mail 
order places were i can buy a performance rebuild kit without haveing to 
drop out of college.  Thanx.
From: sontakke@helix.enet.dec.com (Vikas Sontakke)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Castrol Syntec
Date: 28 Sep 92 15:59:48 GMT
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation


Getting back to the subject i.e. Castrol Syntec, I have put it in my 83 Prelude,
114K miles.  Frankly, I can't see paying extra $0.75 for this than Mobil-1. Of
course, some of you might not see any reason for putting in synthetic oil but I
prefer synthetic in my cars.

I detest the snake oil type commercial of Castrol Syntec.  Also the available
literature says nothing about it as far as the comparison with other _synthetic_
brands are concerned.

From reading this group, I understand that Mobil-1 was able to stand by its
claims (200K miles with virtually no engine wear) in Australia after Castrol
tried to compalain against Mobil-1.  It is ironic that a company such as Castrol
had to resort to it and still had the gall to air those stupid snake oil
commericals (it keeps on running, and running, and running ...)

Vikas Sontakke		Digital Equipment Corporation, Maynard MA.
Internet:		sontakke@helix.enet.dec.com
    uucp:		{decvax,ucbvax,allegra}!decwrl!helix.enet!sontakke
			sontakke%helix.enet@decwrl.dec.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty)
Subject: Re: Are cylinders in performance cars honed??
Organization: New York State Institute for Sebastian Cabot Studies
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 22:11:49 GMT

In article <1992Sep30.164452.18703@ee.ubc.ca> jeffc@ee.ubc.ca (jeffrey chow) writes:
>  My friend did not agree with this scenario and backed his argument by
>saying that the cylinders in performance cars (i.e., indy style cars and
>other race track cars) are never honed. I think he's blowing wind.

>  So the question to all you netters is: "Are the cylinders in performance
>cars honed????".  If not, why not?

well

1) if you didn't hone them, i can't imagine how you'd keep oil
on the cylinder walls

and

2) back in july, i visited one of the top competition motor
building shops in the midwest, and talked with owner Gary Ostrich
while he honed out the cylinder bores in a big block GM he was
building for a drag racer.

so off hand, i'd say that your friend is blowing something.

cheers,
  richard
-- 
richard welty                            518-393-7228
welty@cabot.balltown.cma.com
  ``if you can read this, mario, you're too close''
    -- bumper sticker seen on a CART safety truck
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: alanh@wsl.dec.com (Alan Hamilton)
Subject: Re: Pontiac Fiero suspension
Organization: Western Software Lab
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 92 21:08:18 GMT

In article <1038@pico.qpsx.oz.au> gregj@pico.qpsx.oz.au (Greg Johnston) writes:
>wanted: springs to lower 87 GT Fiero 1.5 inches.  Can anybody
>provide the name and fax number or other contact details for
>a supplier?
>
>Email to Greg Johnston (GREGJ@QPSX.OZ.AU)
>
>Thanks


There is a company that provides a wide range of suspension
parts for the 84-87 Fieros including lowered spring kits. They
also have engine performance parts.


IRM Fiero
 - 301-948-3301 800-367-8423
8060 Sessna Ave
Gaithersburg MD 20879

I own two Fieros a 1988 GT and 1985 SE and have bought several things from
them without any problems.

Alan Hamilton
From: wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: HP on a 305 (was re: swapping differential)
Date: 5 Oct 92 18:32:17 GMT
Organization: Hewlett Packard - Boise, ID

In <1992Sep28.023533.25545@sol.UVic.CA> Andreas  Tovornik writes:

>>>305 can't make at least 150HP, that's pretty lame. Perhaps your engine
>>>needs some attention. Or an early-'70s 350 swapped in... 
>>
>>Many of those GM 305's are only rated at 145 hp at best.  It IS pretty sad...
>  
>AT BEST??
>
>How come mine rates 215 hp SAE NET? Your average 305 rates about 170 hp
>with TBI. The TPI version in my '87 Firebird is rated at 215. GM has a dual
>exhaust kit with two catalytic converters which boosts that figure to about
>230-235 SAE NET.
>
>I have never heard of a 305 rated at 145 hp. The two-barrel early eighties
>267 was rated at about 145.

The stock quadrajet 305 in '83 put out (factory spec) 145 hp.  TBI engines
put out 165.  I agree that your hi-performance options (Hi-Output 195-215hp)
and TPI models put out more but your run-of-the-mill engines (the ones that
you find in everyday junkers) are going to be on the low end of the scale.
The author of this item is seeking help with a low horsepower engine and
I was only agreeing (sarcastically) with their assessment.  Most people
do not have the ALL-OUT, DECKED-OUT high performance engines in their rigs.
That's reserved for the select few that can afford it.

Wes Fujii

FLAME ON

P.S.  I got rid of MY 145hp 305 and no, it didn't do that well on a dyno
      when it was new.  I believe that the hp rating was optimistic at
      best!

      When was the last time that you had YOUR car on a dyno?  Better do
      it BEFORE flapping your mouth too much!

FLAME OFF

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Wes Fujii               *           JAPANESE BUSINESS MOTTO           *
* Boise, Idaho            *        You can buy anything you want        *
* wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com *             with a lot of money             *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Opinions on Ford V8-460 engine?
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 28 Sep 92 08:33:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> towing my Jeep CJ. I have come across a '75 Ford F250 with a 460 cu
-> in V8 and a C6 automatic trans; both of which have been completely
-> rebuilt recently. Any comments on the 460 engine (good, bad,
-> indifferent)?

 In my experience, the stock 460s seem to be a bit soggy compared to the
429s, and usually get poorer mileage.  This is likely due to the
gearing, carburetion, and other changes required for smog control, as
the changeover from 429 to 460 happened about the time the Feds started
getting antsy.

 I've found them to be reliable and easy to work on, if not particularly
exciting.  Now, a cam and carb swap and a recurve job on the
distributor, and you have the automotive equivalent of Mr. Hyde - it'll
really wake it up.
                                                                                                              
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: etxeost@eua.ericsson.se (Erik Ostrom)
Subject: Lamborghini spare parts
Reply-To: etxeost@eua.ericsson.se
Organization: Ellemtel Telecom Systems Labs, Stockholm, Sweden
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 16:40:22 GMT

Hello tech wizards!

I'm restoring an old lamborghini Jarama GTS -73 and contrary 
to what you may think I don't have lots of $$$$.

Now to the question.

I wonder if any of you guys know if the bumpers on my car could
be of any other marque than Lamborghini, because my rear bumper 
is missing and I don't even want to guess the price on an original
one.

The reason I ask is because I know that Lamborghini as well as
Ferrari used a lot of other marques parts in the 60s & 70s and 
I also know that my car has tail lights from Alfa Romeo (I think)
Fiat fans for the air condition defrosters, and Mercedes door lock
mechanism. 

Regardless of the bumpers I would appreciate any such information.

/Erik Ostrom

P.S   I have a set of brand new piston rings for sale to above engine
      ( V-12 4.0 l No overbore)
#####################################################################
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####                                __/                     #########                               	  #####################################################################

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: allen@corrado.network.com (A.C. Middleton)
Subject: Dodge 2.2L Turbo I engine block sources 
Organization: Network Systems Corporation
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 92 14:43:20 GMT

I have an '85 Omni GLH Turbo/115K.  When the water pump/face plate
was last replaced, the mechanic said the block was cracked.  Though
the block isn't visible, I believe them since there is an oil leak
in the area.  Chrysler offers a remanufactured Turbo I short block
for $1855, which seems rather expensive. One local engine rebuilder
quoted approx. $2400, but assumed finding the engine in the scrap
yard.  Does anyone know of other sources for Dodge engines? 

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: Convertible Conversion
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 18:52:14 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 I haven't ever seen a conversion kit for the do-it-yerselfer, though that
doesn't mean they're unavailable. There are outfits that do conversions, and 
might sell you the components.

 If you're converting a hatchback-style car you have a significant amount
of sheet metal and chassis structural work ahead of you. If you are not
a good welder, find one. Removing the T-top will weaken the car significantly
and this has to be made up underneath. Getting a decent-looking rear deck 
where the hatch used to be will require professional-grade sheet metal skills
and equipment IMO. I guess you could do it in 'glas, but wouldn't expect it
to last nor to come out looking factory-straight.

 I have heard negative things from owners of the earlier Camaro conversions
regarding quality and fit of the tops. This was before the factory started
contracting conversions and selling the convertibles themselves. 

 I have a older factory convertible apart now. The top mechanism is supported
by some pretty heavy bracing at the back, and the alignment of the mounts
is critical to get the top to meet the windshield. This support is another
thing which will be necessary to add. Some of the beefiness is due to the
top being (a) full size and (b) hydraulic. Most Camaro conversions I see
on the road have a somewhat smaller top but I think you want a power top.
I was able to get by with a manual top on my Fiat, but even that built
shoulder muscles when I overarmed it twice a day. Anything bigger would
probably require you to either flick a switch or get out of the seat.

 Also consider additional bracing of the windshield pillars. A Camaro I
had the misfortune of getting dragged into working on had bad rot all
around the windshield (under the weatherstripping), and the flexing and
pulling of the convertible top will place additional stress on the
pillars. I had to add some steel inside my convertible's pillars to
strengthen them; they were 3/4 gone and every time I dogged the top
down they would flex about 1". 

 Personally, I wouldn't buy a kit until you've seen an example installed
and complete (so you know it can work out) and talk to the guy who put
it together. Bravery is nice, but winter's coming...
 
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
Organization: Sophomore, Physics, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 1992 19:21:26 -0400 
From: Stephen James Kendrish <sk4k+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Wider Wheels

       After serious consideration and budgeting, I've decided to
install a set of 17 x 9.5 wheels on my '87 Trans Am.  Now, after
deciding, I need to know exactly how to do this.  I know it can be done
because I've seen them on late model Camaros in a few magazines.  I
figure that the rear wheels shouldn't be a problem.  The front wheels,
however, are where the problem will be.  One magazine gave a vague
description of a Camaro saying something about a ten millimeter offset. 
I've also heard stuff about removing half a coil from the front springs
and removing the fender flares.  If anyone out there has done this to
their Firebird or Camaro, please tell me how its done.  For all I know,
there might even be a conversion kit out there right under my my nose
(Herb Adams or something).  Any input would be well appreciated. Thanks
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Mustang Cobra Article C/D Oct
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 1 Oct 92 23:19:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> going on to say according to Ford's new power standard, the stock
-> 5.0l engine only outputs 205bhp.  Any thoughts on this?  I doubt this

 Twenty years ago the industry derated certain engines by fiddling with
how they obtained the figures.  This was done to thwart prohibitive
horsepower-based insurance schemes which were under consideration at the
time.

 The industry, thus thwarted, merely widened their aim.  Instead of
paying $+x for a BOSS 429 over a 302-2 barrel, they simply changed the
weighting scheme to "Mustang, all", and you paid the same rate whether
it was a '68 with a 427 or a '79 with the 200 inch inline six and one
barrel carb.  At least that's now it worked back when I had Mustangs.
From: mci41087@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Occaisionally)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: DOHC on a V8 possible?
Date: 29 Sep 92 01:27:27 GMT
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana

Not to mention the Corvette ZR-1, Porsche 928 (newer models), Mercedes-Benz
400E, the Ferrari GTO and F40, the Infiniti Q45, Ferrari 328, etc......
It is by no means a new concept to have a DOHC, 4-valve V-8.  Just an underused
one by American manufacturers (e.g. the Mustang observation).

Matt I.
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 17:24:56 EDT
From: Karl Nordstrom <KXN2@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: audi 4 valve heads (was DOHC on V8

eliot@lanmola.engr.washington.edu (eliot) writes:

> ...the 89 (?) model onwards got the 20 valve head and the sophisticated
>boost control.  You know that "max. torque at 1950 rpm" engine.

How do they do that?
From: eli@cisco.com (Steve Elias)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Seal for gas leak?
Date: 1 Oct 92 16:55:05 GMT
Organization: cisco Routers-R-us Systems, CA, USA


if the dealer is asking you for any money for this problem
they really must be ripoff artists or total idiots.

there is a recall out on 82-84 hondas for precisely this problem.
(not 100% sure on those years, but that should be close enough!)
any honda dealer should fix it for free.

/eli

In article <92274.013639QXF1@psuvm.psu.edu> <QXF1@psuvm.psu.edu> writes:
Path: csl.sri.com!sparkyfs.erg.sri.com!ames!haven.umd.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!ukma!psuvax1!psuvm!qxf1
   Organization: Penn State University
   Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 01:36:39 EDT
   From: <QXF1@psuvm.psu.edu>
   Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
   Lines: 7

   I got a leak somewhere on my 82 Civic fuel filler pipe beause of rust.  I
   was asked ~$120 by dealer for replacement, about 1/6 of the total car price.
   I am wondering whether there is any kind of epoxy seal which is safe to gas
   for problem like this.  Help me netters.  The only thing dealers interested
   is to get money out of my pocket.  I gotta no way to turn to except you folks.

   Ching --> :-)
--
 steve elias x4517 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: gooley@netcom.com (Mark. Gooley)
Subject: Re: Where to find Haynes manuals?
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 92 15:28:49 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Keywords: haynes

In article <1992Sep28.141737.24362@hubcap.clemson.edu> jayc@hubcap.clemson.edu (Jay Crawford) writes:
>I'd like to order a Haynes (sp?) manual for a '92 Saab (I suspect I won't be   
>able to get a manual for a '92, but the latest edition for Saab will do.).  Does
>anyone know if I can get them via mail order?  Thanks!                        
>
>-- 
>Jay Crawford          
>jayc@hubcap.clemson.edu

Same sort of problem here: one of the few local bookstores that carries
a lot of Haynes manuals hasn't the one for my car (Audi 5000, 1984-88).
They get new Haynes books in batches over which they claim to have little
control.

The rec.arts.books FAQ suggests sending a list-price check directly to
the publisher or (in this case) U. S. distributor for a book -- wonder if
that would work?  Look the book  up in Books In Print (addresses of publishers
and distribuotrs included somewhere) and send off your check, I guess...

Mark., but there should be a better way
gooley@netcom.com
From: seanr@lobo.rmhs.colorado.edu (Sean Reifschneider)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: What is the air pump used for?
Date: 7 Oct 92 01:16:12 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Rocky Mountain High School, Fort Collins, CO

In article <1992Oct6.132017.12619@bnr.ca> MBEAVING@BNR.CA writes:
>
>Something that has been on my mind is the use of the air pump.
>What is it's purpose?  Is it to supply air to the catalytic
>convertor to clean up the exhaust?  Is it used to increase the

Ahh.  Just had a discussion on this today.  The way a Cat works
is that as the hydrogen comes by, it sticks to the platinum
just far enough apart so that 2 oxygens can stick down next
to them and it turnes your hydrocarbons into water...  That's
why they need the O...

And don't forget to read my next post...

Sean
From: msingh@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (The Supreme Commander)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Cold = Super braking power??
Date: 29 Sep 92 22:32:46 GMT
Article-I.D.: usenet.BvD2MM.6In
Distribution: usa
Organization: Indiana University


>I've noticed the over-sensitive brake pedal problem in two vehicles;
>one was a low-milage Mazda 626 and the other was a U-haul truck.
>I'd always thought that it was me getting used to power braking, but
>now that
>someone else has mentioned it, maybe it wasn't just me...

I have been told by a few people that this problem is common in
Mazda's. Apparently their brake system is very sensitive to moisture.

Thinking about this more, I came across another interesting little
tidbit. Whenever I'm at a light with my foot on the brake, the car
idles roughly. If I take my foot off the brake (Not that I'd be on the
brake if there was no incline...) the engine idles more smoothly.

I have yet to hear anyone give me a good explanation on that little
problem.

I've come to the conclusion that my brand new 93 626 was not really
worth the money. The construction appears shoddy and all these little
things are annoying me. (I've not mentioned the fact that the steering
wheel refuses to stay centered....)

Where is my old Acura?



				...Manu

-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------
The Supreme Commander wishes you a Supreme day. 
I'm a Magic Man, oooh, I got the magic hands, yeah...
Don't mind me, I'm just attempting to dock.
From: genet@hplsla.hp.com (Gene Taylor)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Civic Engine Noise
Date: 25 Sep 92 15:57:03 GMT
Article-I.D.: hplsla.5630169
Organization: HP Lake Stevens, WA

>>  My 89 Honda Civic developed some kind of annoying noise somewhere under
>>  the hood whenever the car is accelerating, under heavy load, or climbing
>>  a slope. The noise gets worse whenever the gas pedal is pressed down
>>  further, and there seems to be a loss of power when the noise is heard.
>>  Anyone knows what may cause such noise?
>
>Thanks for those who responded to my question. The noise is kind of
>rattling. Some thought the noise is due to "engine knocking". I quickly
>pumped in almost a full tank of supreme gasoline, and not so surprisingly,
>the rattling noise is 99% gone! I wonder if I need to use high octane
>gas from now on. Is there anyway to clean up the carbon deposit?

I have a Chevy HD 3/4-ton 4WD pickup that had a similar problem.  I 
bought it new in `85.  After about a year it started spark knocking 
and it gradually got worse.  I reset the timing but it still knocked.  
I started using preimum gas and it quit knocking, but in a couple months, 
it gradually started again.  I took it to Chevrolet and they performed a
"pollution check" on it (they don't call them tune ups anymore) and it
ran fine on regular again; for awhile.  But it slowly started knocking
again.  This was beginning to bother me.

It sounded like the EGR valve (exhaust gas return) going bad, but the
truck didn't have one,  (It also doesn't have a catalytic converter.)
I finally took it to a private mechanic and offered to pay extra if he
would let let watch him work on it (he didn't charge extra).  The first
thing we found was that the vacuum line to the distributor spark advance
was not connected.  That would explain how Chevy "fixed" the problem.
Other than that, we didn't find any problem.  The whole test was run by
a computer testing station (which was rather interesting to witness,
being pretty knowledgable about mechanics and computers).  Afterwards,
it still spark knocked.

Cutting to the chase scene:  The problem was that the carb was running
too lean.  They run cleaner when they are lean but they also have a
tendency to predetinate.  I had the carb "adjusted" (incl dif jets) and
it quit knocking.  It didn't affect the mpg much (still around 10) but
it may not pass an inspection.  Since I live in the sticks, that hasn't
been tested.

-Gene