HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

/ hpfcdc:rec.woodworking / DAVID FARR <dfarr@ASRR.ARSUSDA.GOV> /  4:43 am  Jul 27, 1992 /
An aging woodwooker has been confronted with the need to use
bifocals.  How well do bifocals work in the shop?  There are two
types, progressive (no lines) or the conventional type.  Can
anyone provide some advice?

Dave Farr
 DFARR@ASRR.ARSUSDA.GOV
 
----------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: doshay@ursa.arc.nasa.gov (David Doshay)
Subject: Re: Keyless Chuck: yea or nay?
Organization: NASA-Ames Biocomputation Center
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 20:59:40 GMT

In article <WOODWORK%92072312003223@IPFWVM.BITNET>, ALEX@NKI.BITNET (Bill Alexander) writes:
|> Having completed a major renovation project which a cordless drill would have
|> made immeasurably easier, I've belatedly decided to buy one. I like the
|> notion of a keyless chuck, but I'm suspicious of them. Anyone have any
|> experience with them?  They really hang on to that bit?
|> 

I have the top line Makita (they make at least 4). I bought it with a normal
keyed chuck, which was fine, except when I space out and put the key down
"somewhere."

As a gift my wife bought me the keyless chuck. It grips just fine and is very
convienient because I cannot loose the key :-). My only complaint is that it
has a larger diameter, and thus cannot fit into as tight a spot.

disclaimer: My cousin works for Makita, but I buy my tools retail

David		doshay@soma.arc.nasa.gov

The thought police insist I tell you:
my thoughts, not NASA's
From: mwr@tridom.uucp (Mark Reardon)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Sleigh bed or pencil post bed plans wanted
Date: 28 Jul 92 22:41:47 GMT
Reply-To: mwr@tridom.uucp (Mark Reardon)
Organization: AT&T Tridom; Marietta, Georgia

In article <1992Jul27.131315.18654@bmerh85.bnr.ca>, mccormic@bnr.ca (Shawn McCormick) writes:
|> The title says it all. I'm looking into building my own
|> bed, either of the sleigh bed type or the pencil post type,
|> depending on what plans I can find for either. I've done 
|> some preliminary designs on a sleigh bed but I'd like to 
|> get some input w.r.t. heights, etc. Any info on plans or 
|> even sources of plans would be appreciated. Please post 
|> responses as I don't have email.
|> 
|> Thanks,
|> 
|> Shawn McCormick
|> Bell Northern Research
|> Ottawa, Ontario, Canada, eh!
|> (613) 763-7339

A recent Fine Woodworking had a beautiful sleigh bed in it.  I am
pretty sure it was this year.  I will check and see if I can find
it at home.  You also might want to contect them in case I can't
find it.

-- 
Mark

---------------------------------------------------------------------
| Mark Reardon           |  AT&T Tridom                             |
| mwr@eng.tridom.com     |  840 Franklin Court                      |
|                        |  Marietta, GA 30067                      |
---------------------------------------------------------------------
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: A Grizzly Tale -- an apology
Date: 30 Jul 92 17:16:15 GMT
Organization: LLNL

In article <01GMYGP0R8VM8Y519I@IRIS.uncg.edu>, MOSIER@UNCG.BITNET (Steve Mosier) writes:

> Bennett is right.  I did misunderstand Gary.  I apologize for the flame.

Thankyou Steve.  Your apology is very gracious and I appreciate it.

Gary

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: morrison@dante.cs.uiuc.edu (Vance Morrison)
Subject: Re: Trouble Ripping Hardwoods
Organization: University of Illinois, Dept. of Comp. Sci., Urbana, IL
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 17:58:12 GMT

In article <92205.164804DMEJJ@CUNYVM.BITNET> DMEJJ@CUNYVM.BITNET writes:
>I was wondering if anyone else has this problem.  Whenever I rip hardwoods
>against the rip fence, the wood gets burn marks along the cut.  
>.......
>I would welcome any advice.
>

A dull blade of course could be the problem.   Assuming this is not
the case, you should make sure that the fence is truely parallel to
the blade and that you have a good true edge on the wood that is 
against the fence.  (As you push the wood through, take a glance at
the fence every now and then, if you notice the wood is not flush
against the fence, the wood is probably warped).  Either of these
problems will cause the wood to rub against the blade, causing the
burn marks.  

Vance
From: STEVE.BUSSELL@OFFICE.WANG.COM ("Steve Bussell")
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: RE: Pencil Post Bed Plan
Date: 29 Jul 92 16:59:30 GMT
Organization: Mail to News Gateway at Wang Labs

In response to the request for Pencil Post or Sleigh Bed plans, there is a
pretty good plan in Norm Abram's 2nd book, "Classics from the New Yankee
Workshop" for a Pencil Post Bed.  I have'nt built it but the plans and
instructions are very good.  Even has instructions for jig to taper the posts.
Good luck, Steve Bussell
From: doshay@ursa.arc.nasa.gov (David Doshay)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Installing a pre-hung door
Date: 21 Jul 92 20:34:08 GMT
Organization: NASA-Ames Biocomputation Center

In article <1992Jul21.065006.24357@csl.sri.com>, ronnie@cisco.com (Ronnie B. Kon) writes:
|> On the assumption that carpentry is a form of woodworking (yes, I know...):
|> 
|> We have just ordered a pre-hung front door to replace the one we have, 
|> with the idea that I will hang it.  From the look of the write-ups in
|> the Sunset Home Repair Handbook and the Readers' Digest Home Repair Guide
|> (don't knock the latter if you haven't read it--it's the best general
|> purpose guide I've found) it looks pretty straight-forward.
|> 
|> Am I getting in too deep?  Any advice for a first-timer?  
|> 

There are only two thinge to get right, and the rest is simple.
Thoes two things are:
	Level
	Plumb
If you do not know which to do where, then you are in too deep. Otherwise, 
if you have the tools, you will do just fine. 

David		doshay@soma.arc.nasa.gov

The thought police insist I tell you:
my thoughts, not NASA's
From: holtt@OCE.ORST.EDU (Tim Holt)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Wood kitchen counter tops... Kind?  Finish?
Date: 31 Jul 92 16:29:41 GMT
Organization: College of Oceanography, Oregon State Univ

Hi...
I'm starting up on a kitchen counter system and am toying with ideas for
wood counter tops.  I saw a monster piece of 1x15 Maple in the wood
store yesterday, and have been wondering how it would work as a counter top
if I glued an additional 10-12" or so to increase the width.  

Anyone have any suggestions as to other wood types, what kind of finish
to use, etc?

Tim Holt
Organization: Computer Engineering Center, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 11:10:07 -0400 
From: Justin Decheck <jd30+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: BIFOCALS

I've gone from single lens to bifocals then trifocals.  You will have
some time getting used to them.  It's not too bad as long as you can
move your head to get everything in the range of the proper lens.  I
noticed that working under a car, for instance, would sometimes get me
in a situation were I couldn't get the right distance.  But you"ll learn
to adjust your work and equipment.  Good luck.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: millios@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (william.l.millios)
Subject: Corian tops for router tables
Organization: AT&T
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 13:39:43 GMT

A while back, somebody posted what sounded to me like a great idea:
use Corian as a table top for their router table.

(Tale included details on routing a mitre slot, reduced-friction
surface, easy to clean, etc.)

Well, I went on my merry goosechase, calling here and there...

Whoa!  This stuff is expensive.  At 24 inches wide, the best quote
I can find so far is $10 (that's ten whole bucks) A LINEAR INCH!.

So, for a 2 foot by 2 foot table top, we're looking at $240 bucks.

Egad.

Since this is a bit ridiculous (the tabletop costs more than the
PC 630 router), does anybody else have any good ideas?  I really
liked the looks of the Corian, but not the price...

Bill
From: gerryk@ulysses.East.Sun.COM (Gerry Krajenka)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Benches
Date: 30 Jul 1992 12:15:42 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems
Distribution: world
Reply-To: gerryk@ulysses.East.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: ulysses.east.sun.com

I built a cheap bench made out of plywood (3/4") and some 2x4's for the legs 
and support's.  So, for 20 dollars it works well for the light to medium
jobs I do..

     |               |  <<  anchored to joist
     -----------------  <<--  left over pieces  4x36" 
     |               |       /
     |               |     /
     -----------------  <<
     |               |
     |               |
     -----------------  << table top with 2x4's under it for support
     |               |
     |               |
     |               |
     |               |
     |               |

Gerry

P.S. I need the oak or maple for bookshelves more then a strong work bench
right now.... Wish I could though.....
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 27 Jul 1992 06:43:00 EDT
From:         DAVID FARR <dfarr@ASRR.ARSUSDA.GOV>
Subject:      BIFOCALS
X-To:         woodwork <woodwork%ipfwvm@cunyvm.cuny.edu>

An aging woodwooker has been confronted with the need to use
bifocals.  How well do bifocals work in the shop?  There are two
types, progressive (no lines) or the conventional type.  Can
anyone provide some advice?

Dave Farr
 DFARR@ASRR.ARSUSDA.GOV
 
From: derek@vesta.unm.edu (Derek Stearns Roff)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: software for woodworkers
Date: 22 Jul 92 20:27:00 GMT
Article-I.D.: lynx.s6fmhpc
Organization: University of New Mexico, Albuquerque


I am looking for the names of software designed specifically to aid
woodworkers, and the names, addresses and/or phone numbers of creators
and dealers of said software.  There are panel layout optimizers, cut
list generators, bidding aids, or so I am told, but I can't find them.
I would be grateful for any information on such software for MS-DOS or
Mac, under $500, that would be of interest to the serious amateur or the
professional in smaller shops.  

I am supposed to be writing an article about this, and I find the information
amazingly hard to come by.  Please e-mail any responses or suggestions.  Thanks.


Derek Roff

derek@triton.unm.edu
derek@unmb.bitnet
From: MOSIER@UNCG.BITNET (Steve Mosier)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Corian tops for router tables
Date: 28 Jul 92 20:14:56 GMT
Organization: University of NC at Greensboro
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-Envelope-to: WOODWORK@IPFWVM.BITNET
X-VMS-To: IN%"WOODWORK@IPFWVM.BITNET"
MIME-version: 1.0
Content-type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT

> Bill> Whoa!  This stuff is expensive.  At 24 inches wide, the best quote
> Bill> I can find so far is $10 (that's ten whole bucks) A LINEAR INCH!.
> Bill> So, for a 2 foot by 2 foot table top, we're looking at $240 bucks.
>
> Yes, but I am having a very hard time finding it.  There is a plywood
> called FinForm used to build concrete forms.  It is 3/4" Finnish Birch
>       :
>       :
> who will order it for me.  I have heard prices from $75 to $150 per
> 4x10 sheet, so this is very expensive.

Whoa again!!  My router table, saw tables, etc. are cheapo plywood covered
with Formica.  When something untoward happens and the table gets
zapped/cracked/pounded/etc., its fairly simple to whack out a new one.  Why
spend all that money on anything that can get damaged in a shop (read:
anything but cast iron)?  This isn't a candidate for the back cover of FWW, you
know.  (Or is it??)  8-)

steve - W3GRG
mosier@uncg.bitnet
mosier@iris.uncg.edu
From: smb@ulysses.att.com (Steven Bellovin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: drawer construction techniques
Date: 29 Jul 92 02:14:41 GMT

I was looking at a chest of drawers in a furniture store the other day, and
I saw a construction technique that I hadn't encountered before.  It seems
easy enough that I suspect there's something wrong, that I'm overlooking...

Anyway, in this dresser the drawer fronts were joined to the sides by a
sliding dovetail.  Much faster than traditional dovetail joints, and it
doesn't take a fancy jig.  Also, to my surprise, the back of the drawer
was dovetailed to the sides.  I've usually seen dados or finger joints
there.

Comments, anyone?
From: danny@vega.iii.com (danny)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: router : plunge or not? EVS or not?
Date: 27 Jul 92 16:36:49 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Innovative Interfaces Inc., Berkeley CA

I am looking for a router and would like to know some pros and cons 
about Plunge router with or without electronic variable speed control.

I am currently looking at Ryobi 600E which cost $209 from Woodworker and
the Borch which I forgot the model number, it also can plunge with EVS and
cost $230.  Both model rated at about 3.5 HP.

Since this is my first router, I am not sure if I need a plunge 
router with EVS.  I wanted this feature mainly for future use that
someday, a big someday, that I might build a router table and try to 
use a 4 inch raise panel bit.  Other then this reason, what good is EVS
which cost about $40-$50 more then one without EVS. Compare to those router 
speed controller for $39 from Woodworker, what's the different.  Would it
work the same if I buy a router without EVS and get the seperate speed
controller later?

enough question.
Thanks in advance
Danny
/*-------------------------------------------------------------------*/
How do you explain school to a higher intelligence? -- Elliot, "E.T."
Innovative Interfaces Inc.       |Mail Address
Berkeley, CA 94710               |   Internet : danny@iii.com
/*-------------------------------------------------------------------*/
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jims@bnr.ca (Jim Spallin)
Subject: Re: Handcutting Dovetails
Reply-To: 1596118@x400gate.bnr.ca
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd., Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Distribution: world, na, usa
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 92 19:08:45 GMT

In article <1992Jul21.192129.461@organpipe.uug.arizona.edu>, tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin) writes:
|> >>> Question about handcutting dovetails....
|> >> Do you have a bandsaw or a tablesaw?
|> > Whats your point?
|> 
|> The point is that I have a relatively quick and easy way to make such dovetails
|> with either table saws or bandsaws doing most of the work for you...   you end
|> up doing the clean up and fitting by hand,  but most of the hard work is down 
|> by Reddi Kilowatt.    I described it here a year or so ago, and several other
|> people commented that they did it the same way,  or had read articals
|> from professional woodworkers teaching them how to do it that way.
|> 
Tom, care to post your method, or atleast forward me a copy??

Thanx,
-- 
Jim Spallin, (613)765-2581
Opinions expressed are my own, although others are free to share them
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: Nick_Janow@mindlink.bc.ca (Nick Janow)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Surfacing with a router
Date: 23 Jul 92 06:27:22 GMT
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada

stetzer@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Frank Stetzer) writes:

> A couple of recent postings have mentioned using a router for surfacing.  I
> saw a jig in a magazine once which suspended the router on steel rods passing
> thru the router sub-base holes where a fence is usually attached.  This
> design didn't seem like it would be too stable.

I didn't have suitable steel rods handy, so I made a simple wooden sled to
slide the router on.  The sled in turn slid along a pair of straightedges I'd
made for that purpose.  It works great for turning a wide warped board into a
wide flat board of proper thickness, or for putting the first flat surface on a
dried piece of tree.  :)

BTW, the straightedges are wide, and I clamp them to the sides of my bench,
level with the surface.

--

Nick_Janow@mindlink.bc.ca
From: weverka@spot.Colorado.EDU (Robert T. Weverka)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Sears table saw design flaw- cuts its own power cord.
Date: 26 Jul 92 12:28:40 GMT
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder


My Sears table saw gave the internal power cord enough slack to find
its way into the saw blade with the blade set high and at 45 degrees.

It was a design flaw.  I checked their floor models currently sold and
found that they have corrected it.

It wasn't too difficult to splice the cord back together, and tie it
out of the way of the blade.  A splice was required, since the cord
appears to be attached to the motor casing permanently.(I'm not certain
about this)

I haven't figured out whether I'll complain to Sears.  The salesman didn't
seem too interested in my problem.  

Check your saw for this flaw.

-Ted
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Organization: University of NC at Greensboro
X-Envelope-to: woodwork@ipfwvm.bitnet
X-VMS-To: IN%"woodwork@ipfwvm.bitnet"
MIME-version: 1.0
Content-type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Wed, 29 Jul 1992 16:21:26 -0400
From:         Steve Mosier <MOSIER@UNCG.BITNET>
Subject: Re: A Grizzly Tale -- an apology

> > > Let me give you a vote of confidence.  I think your opinions are worth
> > > more than $.02.  $0.29 to be exact.
> >
> > If I had some borderline doubts about the underlying tone of Gary Prekshot's
> > letter exchange with Grizzly, I no longer do.  Its very clear now.
>
> Steve,
>
> If I'm interpeting you correctly, I think you've misunderstood Gary.
> The $0.29 is the price of postage Gary thinks the guy should spend to
> send his opinions to Grizzly.
>
> It was not meant as an estimate of the inherent value of the poster's
> opinions; it was meant an encouragement to send them where they may
> do some good.
>
> - Bennett

Bennett is right.  I did misunderstand Gary.  I apologize for the flame.

steve - W3GRG
mosier@uncg.bitnet
mosier@iris.uncg.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel)
Subject: Re: Sears table saw design flaw- cuts its own power cord.
Summary: On the wrong tack.
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 1992 21:29:00 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division

In article <1992Jul26.122840.1124@ucsu.Colorado.EDU> weverka@spot.Colorado.EDU (Robert T. Weverka) writes:
>
>My Sears table saw gave the internal power cord enough slack to find
>its way into the saw blade with the blade set high and at 45 degrees.
> ...
>I haven't figured out whether I'll complain to Sears.  The salesman didn't
>seem too interested in my problem.  

The salesmen should have ask you to talk to the service orginzation.
All the sales bodies do is sell.  If is under warrenty they will come 
out to your home and replace the cord at no additional cost to you.
At least they came out and replaced the top on my Sears TS.

>Check your saw for this flaw.
 
>-Ted

Howard
-- 
Howard Rebel hpcsos.col.hp.com 

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jims@bnr.ca (Jim Spallin)
Subject: Re: drawer construction techniques
Reply-To: 1596118@x400gate.bnr.ca
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd., Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 92 14:20:54 GMT

In article <17015@ulysses.att.com>, smb@ulysses.att.com (Steven Bellovin) writes:
|> Anyway, in this dresser the drawer fronts were joined to the sides by a
|> sliding dovetail.  Much faster than traditional dovetail joints, and it
|> doesn't take a fancy jig.  Also, to my surprise, the back of the drawer
|> was dovetailed to the sides.  I've usually seen dados or finger joints
|> there.
|> 
|> Comments, anyone?

I've seen this technique used on a number of pieces.  While 
it would be a lot faster to do with a router and router 
table, I think that cutting dovetails by hand, even half 
blinds, would be faster than cutting the sliding dovetails 
by hand, but then who does that any more :-)

One thing about the sliding dovetail method, the drawer front
must extend past the sides of the drawer, while with dovetails,
the sides of the front mark the sides of the drawer.  Inset 
vs overlap, when the drawer is closed.

-- 
Jim Spallin, (613)765-2581
Opinions expressed are my own, although others are free to share them
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Handcutting Dovetails
Reply-To: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: world, na, usa
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 92 15:00:26 GMT

In article <1992Jul22.141313.5245@evolving.com> mmf@evolving.com (Mark Frazier) writes:

>8 tails in the joint. The first day, I spent 10 hours BENT OVER the 
>table saw making the initial cuts. My back was extremely sore. It took another
>20 hours to clean up with a chisel. They came out very good, but it still
>took a lot of time to clean em up perfect with the chisels. Granted, this
>is much easier than doing everything by hand, but it's not as easy as the
>articles I've read (FWW on joinery) make it sound.
>
>After that project, I bought a 24" Leigh jig.

I certainly don't blame you, but it takes me an average of about 15
minutes to cut each tail by hand. Mine never see the table saw.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |            - The 90/90 Rule -
George Patterson -  | The first 90% of the work takes 10% of the time.
                    | The last 10% of the work takes the remaining 90%
                    |   of the time.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stetzer@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Frank Stetzer)
Subject: Surfacing with a router
Originator: stetzer@csd4.csd.uwm.edu
Organization: Computing Services Division, University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 20:55:27 GMT

A couple of recent postings have mentioned using a router 
for surfacing.  I saw a jig in a magazine once which suspended
the router on steel rods passing thru the router sub-base holes
where a fence is usually attached.  This design didn't seem like 
it would be too stable.

Is there another jig or setup which is commonly used for 
surfacing with a router?  Does it actually to a tolerable job?

==========================================================================
Frank Stetzer                                   stetzer@convex.csd.uwm.edu
Statistical Software Coordinator                P.O. Box 413
Computing Services Division                     Milwaukee, WI 53201
University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee             (414)-229-4571
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: removing laminate
From: peterson@ucunix.san.uc.edu (John M. Peterson)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 92 13:23:35 GMT
Organization: University of Cincinnati


Djamschid Mehrpuyan (mehrpuya@rtsg.mot.com) writes:
> What I would like to do is remove the brown laminate and put on
> white laminate.  What is the best and easiest method  
> I should use to remove the brown laminate ?  Should I use a heat 
> gun ?
-- 

DON'T!

--CLEAR every surface to be covered -- carefully.

--Sand all surfaces lightly -- 150 grit should do.

--Remover ALL dust, and proceed to put new (half thickness)
   laminate down in the normal manner.

It works!


+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
|  peterson@headcheese.daa.uc.edu      	 In real life: John M. Peterson  |
|                                                                        |
|  College of Design Architecture Art & Planning                         |
|  University of Cincinnati           45221-0016           513-556-1207  |
+------------------------------------------------------------------------+

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking