HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: cm@cci632.cci.com (Carl Mercer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Big problem with a 1990 Toyota 4x4
Keywords: Help!
Date: 8 Apr 92 15:19:31 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Computer Consoles Incorporated


I'm posting this for a friend who does not have net access.  Please
respond to me or thru the net.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

To all Toyota V6 truck owners (or anyone who has seen this problem)

I own a 1990 4x4 V6 Toyota pickup and I'm getting excessive carbon build-up 
on the valves and in the combustion chamber.  I first took it in to be 
looked at when it had 17K miles on it.  The dealer told me the problem was 
the gas I was using, MOBIL super unleaded.  They did a carbon flush at 
that time.  I switched to regular unleaded gas (Atlantic, Sunoco, Hess).  
I took it back in recently with 26k miles on it and have the exact same 
problem.  They again say it is the gas and that I need another carbon flush 
(this costs some bucks).  They also say that a carbon flush is part of the 
regular maintenance of the truck.  I have a problem with this since its not 
stated in any of the manuals that a carbon flush is needed on a regular basis.

I am getting fed up with the dealers excusses, any information as to 
the possible problems and solutions for this I would be appreciated.

                                                          Bob McElroy

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

NOTE:  I also own a 1990 Toyota V6 4x4 pickup.  I have 37k miles on it 
and I have never had, nor needed a carbon flush.  The plugs were changed 
2K miles ago and were a nice light gray/tan color.  I use the same gas as 
Bob (hes, Atlantic).


Please respond with any advice that could help Bob.

                                          Carl Mercer
					  cm@cci.com
From: keshlear@renfield.uucp (Bill Keshlear)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Fuel octane versus power
Date: 16 Apr 92 18:48:16 GMT
Organization: Seattle Silicon Corporation, Bellevue, WA

In article <1992Apr10.172606.29228@pictel.com> harling@pictel.com (Dan Harling) writes:
>
>This relation also applies to spark advance: the greater the advance,
>the higher the necessary octane rating to avoid knocking.  Knocking
>occurs when the "flame front" in the cylinder reaches the piston before
>it has reached its topmost point.  This will occur not only when
>compression ignites the mixture before the spark plug fires (i.e.,
>preignition), but also when the spark plug ignites the mixture too
>early.
>
>A higher octane rating indicates a slower-burning fuel, which means
>that the flame front starting at the spark plug takes longer to reach
>the piston.  This means that the spark can be advanced more without
>knocking, which (for reasons I'll leave for the true "gearheads" on the
>net) can result in improved performance.
>

First of all, let me say I agree with this totally.  This is what
SHOULD happen according to everything I've ever read on the subject.

So what's going on with MY car?

With the timing set to spec, I get knocking under load.  So I tried
retarding the timing a little - it knocked worse!  I advanced the
timing, and the knock went away!  (The rotor turns clockwise,
I turned the distributer counter-clockwise to advance the timing.
The adjustment was minor, but it was definitely perceptible which way 
I turned it.)

The car is an 81 BMW 320i with 193K miles.  It has electronic ignition,
but DOESN'T have the computer-controlled advance/retard system that
later models have.  The compression is good.  Valve timing is correct.
New plugs.  Recently used Techron (made knocking worse).  Yes, I
disconnected the vacuum line to the distributer & plugged it when
I checked the timing, and reconnected it afterward.

Anybody have a logical explanation for what's going on with my car? 



-- 
- Bill Keshlear		keshlear@renfield.UUCP
		or	ole!renfield!keshlear
		or	...!uw-beaver!sumax!ole!renfield!keshlear
		or	ole!renfield!keshlear@cs.washington.edu
From: rog@hpscit.sc.hp.com (Roger Haaheim)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: TRIPLE EDGE WIPER QUESTION
Date: 13 Apr 92 12:33:57 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Clara, CA

Consider also that with 3 edges the motor is working 3 times
harder (or so) which it may not be designed for...
From: ben@monmouth.edu (Bennett Broder)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Stupid Headlight question
Date: 16 Apr 92 15:31:01 GMT
Article-I.D.: monmouth.7205
Organization: Monmouth College, W. Long Branch, NJ  07764

In article <1992Apr9.152851.19585@schaefer.math.wisc.edu> wilson@math.wisc.edu (Bob Wilson) writes:
>BZZT! Wrong!
>That is true of SOME of the new headlights but definitely not all.
>Whether they are really so small or so weirdly shaped that they
>CANNOT use the replaceable elements or whether we are just being
>ripped off I don't know, but many of the new shapes have to be
>replaced completely and some of them cost more than $100.
>Bob Wilson
>wilson@math.wisc.edu

I don't believe this is true.  As far as I know, all headlamps use either
the conventional round or rectangular sealed beams, or they use replaceable
halogen bulbs.  Replacement costs for any of these is ~$10 for 4 headlight
systems, and ~$17 for 2 headlight systems.  Cars that use replaceable bulbs
include the new Eagle Talon, Ford Escort, Toyota Camry and Honda Accord.
Before you buzz, can you list even *one* make and model of a car that
doesn't use either a conventional sealed beam or a replaceable halogen
bulb?


-- 

Bennett Broder               Monmouth College
                             Computer Services
ben@monmouth.edu             W. Long Branch, NJ 07764
From: thos@suite.sw.oz.au (Thomas Cohen)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: ?????LIKE INFO ON PAXTON
Date: 7 Apr 92 23:23:00 GMT
Organization: Softway Pty Ltd

In <s7wtm__@rpi.edu> stiegg@marcus.its.rpi.edu (Gregory Mark Stiegler) writes:

>jws@cica4.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger) writes:


>> I have trouble understanding the claim that turbos are more efficient
>>based on their use of exhaust gas pressure as the power source.
>                              ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^]
>Only partially correct.  You are extracting the HEAT energy of the exhaust
>to produce power.  Thus the debates for wrapping turbos come into play,
>holding the heat keeps the energy in but also heats up the CAT (assuming
>its still there >:-) ).  The back pressure created by most turbos is 
>negligable compared to the parasitic loss of a supercharger.  Remember
>that a turbo is creating say 8 pounds of boost spinning around 9,000 rpm,

Most turbos spin much faster than this -------------------------^^^^
unless they are very large, and if they are that large, the lag
would be incredible.

>very low mass spinning fast, versus a supercharger putting out the same 
>amount at 4,000 rpm, a fairly large mass (especially if you are talking a
>6-71 huffer).  

Well, I have no problem with the above, just a few notes :
Using a turbo is actually quite an effective silencer. By itself
it won't be enough, but it will take enough energy from the
exhaust that silencing it from there will be quite easy.

The chief gain of the turbo over the mechanically driven supercharger
is that the turbo uses energy that was just being thrown away.
The supercharger uses (in part) the energy that it helps create
to run itself. This is obviously less efficient (I've heard that
the Blower Bentley, using a roots blower, used 35bhp just to run
the blower, which on a motor not producing much over 200bhp, was
quite a slice.)

-- 
thos cohen  				       |Softway Pty Ltd
 The best way to make a Japanese engineer wince|ACSnet:         thos@softway.oz
 is (when talking about an NSX) to say slowly  |UUCP: ...!uunet!softway.oz!thos
 'but its _not a Ferrari_ is it?' R.Bulgin, CAR|Internet:    thos@softway.oz.au
From: darnold@felix.filenet.com (Dave Arnold)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: rolling a car
Date: 16 Apr 92 23:12:34 GMT
Reply-To: darnold@fritz.filenet.com (Dave Arnold)
Organization: FileNet Corp., Costa Mesa, CA

Seventeen years ago, my friend and I (I was a passenger - 15 years old),
rolled a hopped up 1956 VW bug by sliding around back bay road.
This road was a dirt road which wrapped around a small hillside.
We believe we rolled because as we were sliding nearly completely sideways
the road suddenly turned into a paved road.  The car flipped several times,
and I was thrown out (no seat belt).  I was hospitalized for two weeks.
There has been alot of speculation as to what would have happened to me
if I were wearing a seat belt.  


--------
Dave Arnold
Internet: darnold@filenet.com
UUCP: uunet!felix!darnold
From: scrandel@sdcc13.ucsd.edu (S. Crandell         )
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Fuel octane versus power
Date: 8 Apr 92 09:27:29 GMT
Organization: University of California, San Diego

In article <92099.084312JBEST@ESOC.BITNET> JBEST@ESOC.BITNET (Jon) writes:
>Does anyone out there know how a change in octane rating affects power?
>AND BEFORE YOU LEAP IN and say higher octane - more power, what I'd like
>to know is whether there's a fixed relation between octane and power.
>F'rinstance if you bump up the octane by x% how can you calculate the
>percentage change in power?
>
>Just curious!
>
>   Jon

     Yeah, this is a good question.  I have always wondered what was
the benefit of forking over extra bucks for 92 octane instead of the
cheap 87 or 88 octane stuff.  

     Does using a higher octane really boost power?

     What about those octane boosters (like 104+ that comes in a red
can)  Do they really add power or are they a waste of money??

     I was told my a friend that after he put octane booster in his
gas his Toyota Pickup would go up hills with more power.  Was he
right or did he just "think" it was more powerful because he put in
the octane booster?

Sean

-- 
)
From: SDOGGETT@cmsa.gmr.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Speedometer sending unit, where is it?
Date: 8 Apr 92 13:42:22 GMT
Organization: GM Research Labs

In article <Peter_Clausen.00fj@amigabw.uucp>
Peter_Clausen@amigabw.uucp (Peter Clausen) writes:

>
>I have an '85 Firebird.  Last week I replaced the instrument cluster with
>one out of a wrecked '89 GTA with the 140 mph speedo.
>
>Only problem is that the new speedo is electronic, so I need the sensor
>that sends the pulses.  I looked all over the GTA and could not for the
>life of me find it.
>
>Since my factory speedo was mechanical, I have the speedo cable going from
>the transmission nose piece to behind the dash.  I did not see this cable
>on the GTA, so...
>
>Could the pulse sender be located on the transmission nose piece?  Inside
>the transmission?  I hope not since I'm running a TH-350 with the nose
>piece bracket for the torque arm, thus leaving me with very little space to
>work with around the speedo outlet.
>
>I'm hoping to find a unit that will snap to the end of my speedo cable.
>Then all I have to do is run a wire to the appropriate connector on the
>cluster.
>
>I know the speedo will more than likely be off, but I was already planning
>on building a unit that would multiply the pulses by whatever constant
>necessary to make the indication correct.  This way I can change rear end
>ratio's and recalibration of the speedo will be a snap.
>
>But, alas, I need that sending unit first.....

>

Typically, it's located in the same location (nose of trans) that the cable wou
ld attatch.  It will have 2 wires attached to it.  I would suggest getting a se
rvice manual for the later GTA and looking over the speedo circuit.  I think yo
u may have overlokked the fact that a buffer is also required (little black box
).  When you pull the PM generator (thats what you call the "sending unit"), ta
ke the entire shaft w/ drive gear.  I've never tried the conversion, but have s
erviced several.  Good luck.  Spencer.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang)
Subject: Re: HKS Turbo Kits
Organization: Brandeis University
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1992 14:45:22 GMT

In article <1992Apr8.073945.17165@leland.Stanford.EDU> tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen) writes:
>In article <frank.02ow@terapin.com> frank@terapin.com (Chun Li) writes:
>>Is it good to put 200hp on the front wheel?  I think the highest output front
>>wheel drive car is Tarus SHO at 220hp.  Hum... last summer when I went back to
>>Frank M. Lin    UCB Xtention    (APSUL) Capsule
>>      Frank/RYU/Frank/Ken SF2CE  #1@ASUC
>
>the taurus SHO used to be the most powerful FWD car.
>then came the dodge spirit, with a DOHC 16v turbo at 224 bhp.
>now it's the cadillac allante, with the *290* bhp northstar 32v V-8.
>
>i remember the good old days when they said 200 bhp was the
>upper limit for FWD cars...
>-teddy
>

Let's not forget that in the 60's Cadillac introduced the FWD Tornado
which had big (pre-gas crisis) V-8, 400CID in them.  I think that they
put out well over 200hp.


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
From: jxs18@po.CWRU.Edu (Jerry Sy)
Subject: volvo odometer stopped and fuel gauage gone wacko
Reply-To: jxs18@po.CWRU.Edu (Jerry Sy)
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 92 14:55:16 GMT


this morning , the odometer on my 79 264 volvo stopped working at
141,837 miles.  any ideas on how to fix this ?

also, my fuel gauge is not working properly, the pointer goes higher
than usual, e.g. full tank-almost vertical, empty is pointing to middle.
any ideas on how to fix this ?

please email replies.

jerry
From: rghoff@bb1t.monsanto.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Octane reduces pinging (was Re: Fuel octane versus power)
Date: 14 Apr 92 11:16:07 CST
Organization: Monsanto Company, St. Louis, MO

In article <3380042@hpldsla.sid.hp.com>, tonya@hpldsla.sid.hp.com (Tony Arnerich) writes:
> In rec.autos.tech, JBEST@ESOC.BITNET (Jon) writes:
> 
>>  Does anyone out there know how a change in octane rating affects power?
>>  AND BEFORE YOU LEAP IN and say higher octane - more power, what I'd like
>>  to know is whether there's a fixed relation between octane and power.
>>  F'rinstance if you bump up the octane by x% how can you calculate the
>>  percentage change in power?
> 
>>  Just curious!
> 
>>     Jon
> 
> High Octane = difficult to ignite. It does not equal more energy available.
> 
> Only one manufacturer that I know of (maybe there's more by now) does get 
> more power from higher octane fuel. On the Turbo SAAB's of the last 5 years
> or so, the turbo boost is increased until the knock sensors detect pre-
> ignition, then back off a little bit. This cycle is continuously repeated.
> 
> The effect of this is to burn as much fuel as the cylinders can hold before
> bad things happen. So in effect, just as any turbo will make the engine
> appear to be of larger displacement, the SAAB turbo engine gets "as big as
> it can", automatically tracking the octane rating of the fuel it gets.
> 

That's a good point. Virtually all modern turbo engines (and alot of 
not turbo) have knock sensors. So basically they can run with a good deal
of advance and you don't have to worry about knocking.

I think most people would agree (and I'm sure I'll hear about this if I"m
wrong), that the high octane fuel doesn't do you much good on a car that
doesn't have a knock sensor and doesn't knock on regular.

Just my 2 pennies....... Rick.





Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: johnson@wrs.com (David Johnson)
Subject: Re: Dunlop Qualifier GTs
Organization: Wind River Systems, Inc.
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 00:03:35 GMT

fragante@unixg.ubc.ca (Gv Fragante) writes:

>Can anyone comment on the Dunlop Qualifier GTs ? I am looking for a low-profile
>all-season tire that is not too $$$ (205/50/15). The D60 A2 does not come in
>this size (as far as I have checked). What other brands have equivalent
>characteristics to the Qualifiers ?

The D40-M2 comes in that size, but if its the looks with the low bucks(less
actual performance) that you want, then the GT Qualifiers are a good choice.

>DAVE_____________________MAY THE G-FORCE BE WITH YOU!______johnson@yuba.WRS.COM
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: troby@diana.cair.du.edu (Thorn Roby)
Subject: Are Bendix disk brakes supposed to drag? ('78 Scout)
Organization: University of Denver, Denver, Colorado
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 92 22:57:58 GMT

I recently had my front disk rotors replaced at Meineke. They said
the calipers and pads were fine (pads have about 10k on them). I
noticed that both wheels dragged slightly when rotated. The mechanic
said that was normal for Bendix brakes of this era. Another mechanic
at Midas who seemed pretty familiar with Scouts said that was wrong 
and the calipers needed to be rebuilt. The drag is stronger at some
points of the rotation than others, and stronger on one wheel than the
other. Brakes work fine and I haven't noticed any overheating. The 
mechanic who said this was normal said that the pads were designed to 
run slightly hot because they grabbed better that way. None of this 
made much sense to me but I found it hard to believe he would be making
it up and losing a brake job in the process. Opinions?
-- 

Thorn Roby                              troby@diana.cair.du.edu
CARL Systems, Inc.                               troby@carl.org   
3801 E. Florida Ave.,Suite D300,Denver, CO 80210 (303) 758-3030
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: stiegg@aix.rpi.edu (Gregory Mark Stiegler)
Subject: Re: Help w/ '76 M4MC Quadrajet
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1992 18:36:14 GMT

tracye@hpcvra.cv.hp.com (Tracy Evans) writes:

>> Simple question.  Does anyone know how to set the mixture aneroid on a
>> Quadrajet M4MC?  I've heard to seat it, then back out 4 turns...is this
>> right?  

>	Well, I read 3.5...  so you're in the ball park...

>tracy

Thanks for replying...but just to make sure I'm talking about the internal
mixture aneroid, not the external curb idle mixture screws.  Apparently
from what I can figure in the books only a few models of the Q-jet had them.
The only reason I'm even interested in checking it is in order to eliminate
some off idle stumble and get as much mpg as possible...not that I expect
much from a 455.

  Thanks again...
     Greg

-- 
===========================================================================
  "Bureaucracy is a challenge to be conquered with a righteous attitude,
     a tolerance for stupidity, and a bulldozer when necessary"
                  -- Peter's Laws
From: koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 2.8 liter V6 in GMC Jimmy
Date: 6 Apr 92 21:34:06 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Naval Ocean Systems Center, San Diego

In article <1992Apr3.011729.1@scivax.stsci.edu> wilcox@scivax.stsci.edu writes:

	[ someone else wrote ]

>>>What criteria did you use to project with certainty during April of >>1992
>>>that your 1988 engine will "easily last well beyoud 200k miles?"                  
>        I pretty certain the engine in my >>1988 Beretta which was built and 
>        bought in Feb >>>1987 will last beyond 200k miles due the maintenance
>        schedule and proven track record. Chevy engines are top-notch.

as a counter-point, one of my co-workers' *1988* 2.8 liter Berettas has already
had a new engine (cracked block under warranty) and a new transmission (cracked
case, not under warranty).  while i wish you continued success, chevy engines
are *far* from 'top-notch'.  the best that can be said of them is that a small
block chevrolet engine will run with *more problems* than any other engine i
have personally ever seen.  chrysler engines are closer to 'top-notch'...

walt k.
From: jim@mwhhlaw (James P. Cavanaugh III)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Rust Removal
Date: 15 Apr 92 23:03:36 GMT
Organization: Martin_Wade_Hartley_&_Hollingsworth

There is a product called Oxy-Solv.  It differs from products like Duro  
Extend (which leaves a black coating) by leaving a whitish-gray zinc  
oxide coating.  The zinc oxide makes a good surface for paint adhesion  
after derusting.  I'm no chemist, but I have read that the products  
which leave a black coating are inferior, as it is more prone to  
re-rusting.
I have used Oxy-Solv on several automotive and household applications,  
and have been extremely satisfied.  I bought it from The Eastwood  
Company.
Jim Cavanaugh
From: gtong@dahlia.waterloo.edu (Gordon Tong)
Subject: Re: Fuel octane versus power
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1992 15:11:14 GMT

I've found that by using higher octane fuel, I can advance my timing and produce
better power. Besides, before I switched to using high octance gasoline, my car
would knock excessively. Also, high octance gasoline also sometimes come 
additives which clean the engine.
From: CXB150@psuvm.psu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: *Help w/Tach and Paint
Date: 8 Apr 92 23:41:01 GMT
Organization: Penn State University


       I need help instaling a tachometer into a 85 chevy caviler
it's not a stick I just want to see what the engine is doing
my first problem is that my coil is electronic with 7 wires coming out
and it is underneth my carb
 the second problem is that I dont have a tack scew on my dist cap


The other problem I need help on is painting
I want to paint flames on the side and hood of my car using
tape and spaypaint ( nothing fancy just to spuce it up a bit)
Am I doing a very bad no no in painting this way

Tanks in advance
       RAD MAN @,@
               \_/

                * Ren & Stimpy for President *
                * Nothing fancy just fun     *
                  CXB150@PSUVM.EDU
From: rll@fatima.mitre.org (Roberto L. Landrau)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Where to buy Car diagnostics computer???
Date: 15 Apr 92 11:49:44 GMT
Article-I.D.: linus.1992Apr15.114944.17049
Organization: Research Computer Facility, MITRE Corporation, Bedford, MA

In article <1992Apr15.035054.15527@usenet.ins.cwru.edu> ae454@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Paul Simundza) writes:
>
>my friend is looking to buy one of those computer diagnostic things
>made for newer cars, which tell you the car's condition according to
>the car's computer chip and so forth..
>
>The cheapest he could find was one at SEARS for $400....He wants to
>know if anyone can locate a cheaper deal....
>
>-- 
>Paul Simundza                              Mail:ae454@cwru.edu
>                                           Compuserve:71441,217


In most cases, all you need is an analog voltmeter, a piece of wire to
make a jumper connection, and the service manual to interpret the
diagnostics codes.  Total cost: $10.00-$20.00 for the voltmeter at
Radio Shaft plus $10.00-$60.00 for the service manual, depending on
the car.

--
The opinions stated above are not necessarily my employer's.
----------------------------------------------------------------
Roberto L. Landrau    KC1YP    landrau@mitre.org  rll@linus.mitre.org
The MITRE Corporation  Bedford, MA 01730          rll@linus.UUCP