HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Splitting a circuit
Date: 13 Aug 92 15:07:12 GMT
Organization: OSF Research Institute

In article <jmcging.713646675@ssa.gov> jmcging@oss724.ssa.gov writes:
   >We've just installed a built in microwave over the range ... and
   >ran into a problem.  The house has ...150 amp service.  I have
   >breaker space available.  Problem is that running the microwave
   >for any extended periond pops the breaker, unless we turn off all
   >the lights on that circuit <g>.

First thing to do is inventory the load on the existing circuit.
Perhaps it is the same as the refrigerator circuit (which would
explain why it takes a while for the breaker to pop).  The solution
may be as simple as plugging the refrigerator into a different outlet.

   >We have a guy coming out to split the circuit, but wondered if
   >switching from incadescent to flourescent lighting fixtures would
   >help?  The old owners put 100 watt bulbs into everything, and
   >switching to 60 in the fixtures extended the running time a whole
   >lot.  Would swapping to flourescent [which I prefer to incadescent
   >anyway] further reduce load on the circuit, so maybe we could turn
   >a fixture back on?

How many light bulbs are on the circuit?  Fluorescent certainly take
less power -- more like 15 watts to replace a 60 watt incandescent,
not 45 as Patter says (typo?)

	-s
From: denbeste@enigma.bgsu.edu (William C DenBesten)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Garage Door Opener Regulations
Date: 12 Aug 92 19:52:48 GMT
Reply-To: denbeste@enigma.bgsu.edu
Organization: Bowling Green State University B.G., Oh.
Originator: denbeste@enigma

glenn@sloth.ncsl.nist.gov writes:
> 
> 
> I just purchased a Genie Garage Door opener and it has a mechanism built in that
> causes the door to automatically open if something is in it's path.  I don't
> see any need for an optical device to do the same thing.
> 
> Rob G.
> 
> 
My door is adjusted to reverse at the appropriate pressure.  Nonetheless,
if I had a kid, I would add an optical sensor. I just don't feel that the
door reverses softly enough if it were to come down on a kid.
In fact, I could not lighten the pressure enough that it would be soft
enough for me to be comfortable and still overcome inertia. Heck, I may
just put one on so that I feel more secure when my friends with kids visit.
-- 
William C. DenBesten is denbeste@bgsu.edu or denbesten@bgsuopie.bitnet
From: wb8foz@skybridge.SCL.CWRU.Edu (David Lesher)
Subject: Re: Help! Washing Machine Spews out Flakes
Reply-To: wb8foz@skybridge.scl.cwru.edu (David Lesher)
Organization: NRK Clinic for habitual NetNews abusers - Beltway Annex
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 92 01:03:15 GMT

Others said
# Sears washers and dryers are made by Whirlpool and have been for
# many years. 

Err,
I believe that they are made by Federated Screw Products aka FSP. 
FSP also sold machines to/was partially owned whoever owns the
Whirlpool name.

--
A host is a host from coast to coast..wb8foz@skybridge.scl.cwru.edu
& no one will talk to a host that's close..........................
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433
From: brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 17:02:28 GMT
Subject: Re: Need advice on replacing plastic gutters
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house

On reconsideration, I suspect you can do a good job at painting over
aluminum gutters.  See the thread on painting aluminum siding.

Pete Brooks

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house

In misc.consumers.house, kalagher@mwunix.mitre.org (Dick Kalagher) writes:

>I have a contractor who says I should install a ridge vent on my 25 year 
>old two story house.  He says this, including soffit vents every 4 feet, 
>will make a big difference in confort and on my air conditioning bill.  He 
>wants $350 for a 40 foot vent.

>Is this worth doing?  Are there any downsides (leaks, structural problems, 
>etc.)?   any other advice?

>Dick Kalagher

It's hard to guess how much cooler this will make your attic without
knowing alot about the house.  The main benefit you should see from
this is:

1. Less rotting of lumber in the attic because of improved ventilation.

2. Less problem with ice dams on your eaves if you live in a place 
where this happens.

Is the $350 just for the roof vent?  It would be a steal if that
included the soffit vents.

As long as a good ridge vent is properly installed you will only have
problems with leaks in high wind conditions.  The steeper your roof
is the more likely you will have leaks.  These leaks come from rain/snow
being blown up and under the vented part.

There are two basic styles of ridge vent.  One is core vent and the
other is cap vent.  The core vent is more expensive (about 2-3 X).

gt

Xref: sparky misc.consumers.house:10851 talk.politics.guns:19320
From: keith@clodii.Columbia.NCR.COM (Keith Boyd)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,talk.politics.guns
Subject: Re: Burglars and dogs and snakes, oh my!
Date: 14 Aug 92 20:03:26 GMT
Organization: NCR E&M Columbia SC

In article <1992Aug7.164531.2686@adobe.com> pngai@adobe.com (Phil Ngai) writes:
>In article <1992Aug7.044208.12430@Athena.dal.fsd.mot.com> jerryc@Athena.dal.fsd.mot.com (Jerry Culp) writes:
>>I agree, if he's trying to get in , call the police. If he gets in before 
>>they (police) finsh their coffee and donuts and get to your house, then 
>>shoot him dead.
>
>Please.
>
>You do not have the right to shoot him dead, even in self-defense.
>You have only the right to shoot him until he stops his attack.
>If that leaves him dead, that was a risk he chose to take.
>
>The difference is that if you shoot to stop and he stops,
>you do not walk over and put a bullet in his brain. You call
>the cops and an ambulance.
>

No. First you let him die, then you call the cops and the ambulance.
When someone breaks in your home, they give up certain rights.

This will help ease the overloaded legal system and jails and will
also make the next thug who fancies breaking into your home think twice.

If they have no respect for my rights and property, why should I have
respect for their life? If a thug knows his chances of being fatally
wounded during a break-in are very remote, what is going to stop him?
He already knows that if he is caught, the legal system will protect
his rights to the hilt at mine and yours expense and his jail time 
will be light with early parole assured. No matter how long his record
may be.

They only understand violence.  You may argue that my way of thinking 
may cause even more violent crimes. I view it sort of like a festering
sore that is about to get infected. ONce you put alcohol on it, it does
hurt worse, but then it gets better and the infection clears up.

(I know this belongs in another group, but I couldn't let it go by)

>-- 
>My opinions are my own.
>A right delayed is a right denied.
>

 Likewise, my opinions.

Keith

-- 
| Keith M. Boyd  (NCR MCPD Cola.) | Nothing could be finer than huntin' and  |
| 3325 Platt Springs Rd.          |    and fishin' in South Carolina! -Me-   | 
| West Cola., S.C. 29170 |   GO BRAVES!!     | keith.boyd@columbiasc.NCR.COM |
| Vp: 803-791-6419 or 6455    | From uunet: uunet!ncrcom!ncrcae!clodii!keith | 
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Installing Carpet in a Basement
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 92 15:45:45 GMT

In article <1992Aug17.140123.14642@cnmss.tredydev.unisys.com> rlm@cnmss.tredydev.unisys.com (Randall L. Martin) writes:

>I'm thinking about installing carpet in a basement Rec room.

I've removed a few carpet installations, but haven't put any down yet.

>1. Do you use tackless strips on stairs?

No. The installations I've seen are stapled to the stairs with padding
laid loose under it.

>2. How do you wrap outside edge of the stairs?

The carpet was stapled to the underside of the edge. A piece of carpet was
cut the size of the stair tread and riser, stapled to the underside of the
front lip, then wrapped around and stapled to the back of the tread, then
stapled to the top of the riser. The top step was done first. (I've
logically reconstructed the method based on the staple locations). Pad was
placed only on the top of the tread.

>4. How many (and where) staples on the steps? 

Those on the underside of the edge were placed about an inch apart, sometimes
closer. Those at the rear and at the tops of the risers were one or two
inches apart. Sometimes there were staples at the bottom of the risers.

>5. How far away from the wall does the tackless get installed? 
>   (I will install a baseboard after the carpet is installed.)

I've usually seen these 1/4 to 1/2" away from the base board. Normally, by
the way, the baseboard is put up first and left about 1/2" above the floor,
but this is probably just because the carpenters are there. An employer
won't want to call the carpenters back in after the carpet layers have
been by.

>6. How do I install the tackless to the tiled cement floor?

They make nails for concrete. These are about 3/4" long and splined. With
an old floor, they may not be sufficient (concrete continues to harden for
about 90 years). If you have a problem with these, buy a "powder actuated
stud driver". These use .22 blank cartridges to shoot nails. You can buy
a simple one for less than $40. The bigger ones are sometimes called "Hilti
guns" and can be rented.

>7. Does the pad get fastened to the tiled cement floor?

I've seen installations where the pad was simply laid down and some where
some glue was used. In the glued-down jobs, the glue was apparently put
down with a caulking gun in beads several feet apart. I've seen the pad
simply laid down in a 12' square room, so size doesn't seem to be a
factor.

>8. How do I install around a post?

For a round one, put down short sections of tackless in an octagonal
shape around the post. For square, treat it like a wall.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | Society calls everything difficult good
                    | and makes everything good difficult.
                    |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: singer@uwovax.uwo.ca
Subject: Sears Garbage Disposal Repairs?
Organization: University of Western Ont, London
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 12:00:09 GMT

My Sears (Kenmore) garbage disposal, purchased in 1987, has been operating
"slowly" for several years--takes a long time to process anything. I assume
that it is the shredder rings, but when a Sears serviceman came, he told me he
would have to remove the unit, have it diagnosed (it might be the motor, he
claimed), etc. I know this routine: it means the loss of the sink's use and
that of our dishwasher for untold weeks while the disposal sits in their
service facility and they get around to ordering some part or another that will
be found to be out of stock, or the mechanic or inventory clerk will be on
vacation, et al. Instead, I have asked that the local Sears service group order
the shredder ring stuff in advance and install them here, in my house, thus
avoiding this hassle. Has anybody else had experience with such disposals? Have
you ever installed the shredder rings yourself (if indeed that was the
problem)? Any advice?-- 
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: seeker@copper.ucs.indiana.edu (Karen Lynn White)
Subject: small grass mowers
Organization: Indiana University
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 16:15:31 GMT


I need a small lawn mower and would very much like advice.  I don't want to
buy a piece of junk only to have to re-buy another and see this one in the
landfill.  I also don't want to pay a lot more than I need to.  

It doesn't help that I don't know exactly what I need in terms of size or
features.  The space to be mowed is only a total of about 2000 sqare feet
at most and may be much smaller as I add flower beds.  I would like to mow
efficiently but it would also be nice if the mower were small enough
that my 10 year old could push it around.  I do want the grass to be
bagged so I can use it for mulch on flower beds but since the yard is small
don't know if it is worth a $100 to avoid having to rake it up.  I want what
I buy to last for several years and always be easy to start.  I can hire
a friend to do yearly maintance and sharpening so I won't need a lot of
service.  (I hope.)

Right now I am looking at a cute 16" Sears model with inset wheels because
it has a bag and looks easy to push around.  It looks wonderful for trimming
but will I regret buying something that small.  It costs about $100. 
Otherwise my choices seem to be about $100 for the cheapest of the cheap
20" or $200 - $250 for something with a bag.  

My grass is growing and I need to make a choice and cut it by this 
weekend.  Please help.  

Karen Lynn White               "Seeker and ye shall find her"
Medical Science
Indiana University           
Bloomington, IN  47405          seeker@copper.ucs.indiana.edu
Xref: sparky misc.consumers.house:11060 rec.woodworking:5693 news.answers:2564
From: heflin@rtsg.mot.com (Suzanne Stratton Heflin)
Subject: Re: New Home for Sale, S. Elgin, IL, Immediate Availability
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 15:22:15 GMT

It's really a shame to have to sell your new home.  Have you looked
at the possibility of renting your old house?  Where I am in Elmhurst,
homes seems to rent immediately...
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: jeffz@cray.com (Jeff Zais)
Subject: Re: Need advice on replacing plastic gutters
Organization: Cray Research, Inc
Date: 18 Aug 92 16:36:02 CDT

I am in the middle of installing aluminum gutters on my house.  I chose 
aluminum figuring they would be more durable than the plastic.  My 
brother-in-law put in plastic on his ranch home and plans on removing 
the gutters in the winter to avoid ice build-up.  I don't want to do this
every year on a 2 story Victorian.  

There are 4 methods of attaching these aluminum gutters:

  1) spike and ferrule -  As mentioned before, this is not recommended
     because you're going into the end grain of the studs.  My fascia boards
     also had some trim at the edge which ruled out this option

  2) brackets (wraparound style) - These brackets attached to the fascia with
     up to 6 nails (screws) and the gutter sits in the bracket.  Because of 
     the trim, I could only put in 4 screws each bracket.  This was the
     best method of support I found.

  3) brackets (bottom support style) - These brackets attached to the fascia
     board with 4 nails (or screws) and the gutter sits in the bracket.  The
     advantage over (2) is that they didn't "wrap around" so in theory looked
     better.  Big deal.  because of the trim, I could only put in 2 screws
     each bracket.  Also, the clamp on the top didn't seat all that well.

  4) wraparound hangers - these hangers wrap right around the gutter, and are
     attached under the shingles on the roof itself.  The manufacturer only
     recommends this as a last resort.  I had to do this because in parts of
     the house the fascia board is not vertical, but at about 45 degrees.  
     These hangers really require two people (brackets can be done alone).
     You can also have some trouble putting them under the shingles (some 
     folks put these over the first shingle and under the next, but I 
     consider this unsightly) but it can be done with a little care.  

Because we have ice and snow, I put a bracket at each rafter (24 inches).

Because we have ice and snow, I put a bracket at each rafter (24 inches).
One odd thing is that the brochure from Alumax recommended supports every
24 to 36 inches, while the individual packages recommended 18 to 24 inches.

One other tip I got from looking at my Mom's gutters, which were installed
professionally:  Don't use a special downspout piece.  This just requires
extra seams.  Where you want a downspout, scribe the shape of the downspout
into the gutter and cut an "X" going between opposite corners.  Push back
the four tabs and you can attach a downspout with a small sheet metal screw.
It works quite well.

One other tip from a cohort at work:  use "plastic tile" (a flexible pipe
just underground) to direct the water far away from the house.  I haven't 
tried this yet, but will soon (He says be sure the plastic tile is not the
perforated type :-) !   )   

                                            Jeff

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: rogerv@sco.COM (Roger Vortman)
Subject: Re: Shooting, Poisoning, Cruelty
Organization: The Santa Cruz Operation, Inc.
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1992 19:59:15 GMT


>The cruelty and violence suggested and/or advocated in
>of a number of postings recently re: home intruders, bothersome
>pets ... is simply astounding. The anger and hatred in our society
>is out of control.

>I, for one, am outta here.

>'click'

Did the guy beam up, or what?
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Help! Washing Machine Spews out Flakes
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 92 15:10:04 GMT

In article <1992Aug17.233849.11607@gvl.unisys.com> garyp@gvls2.gvl.unisys.com (Gary Palangian) writes:

>I beginning to think that Sears really sucks!

What took you so long?

Seriously, Sears is not a manufacturer. They are a retailer. They farm
out the manufacturing rights to "their" products. Not only is the
quality suspect (after all, you're dealing with the lowest bidder here),
but there's no continuity of manufacturer. Just because you got a real
good Kenmore appliance 10 years ago is no indication of the quality of
that appliance today. The manufacturer will be different.

Personally, I sometimes buy Craftsman tools like sockets and wrenches
(not carpentry tools), but I avoid Sears house brands for anything else.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | Society calls everything difficult good
                    | and makes everything good difficult.
                    |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond)
Subject: Re: Elevating water heaters for safety
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 92 00:54:02 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.

phil@eos.arc.nasa.gov (Phil Stone) writes:

>>The water heater pilot light, being mounted BELOW the tank in normally
>>down in that layer.  A normal furnace, particularly an updraft one, has 
>>the flame a couple of feet off the ground.  That makes a world of difference.

>[I posed the question originally as to why the water heater was singled
>out for raising, when the furnace seems like an ignition hazard as well]

>That's a good explanation, John.  However, I checked the furnace again
>and noticed that the pilot light is only about six inches off the floor.
>This is a gravity furnace (is that what you mean by "updraft?")

By updraft, I meant the kind of hot air furnace that has the blower
in the bottom and the burner about midway up, above the fan.  I
probably should have used the term "vertical furnace."  Now it's my
turn to be confused.  What is a gravity furnace?  Is this a hydronic
boiler?

>So I'm sold on the water heater raising theory, but am now somewhat
>concerned about the furnace.  It's much too massive to raise.

>Is 6" enough height to be above gasoline vapors resulting from moderate
>spills?  We have vents in the garage door, but they are installed about
>six inches off the ground, as well.  I may seem to be obsessing about
>this, but having left my last apartment via a smoke-filled third-story
>window (neighbor burned the place, and himself, up), I am somewhat
>attuned to issues of fire safety in my new home.

I'm kinda sensitive too since I crawled out of MY burning house last year
after a computer monitor emolated itself while I slept.  (Hint:  put a
smoke alarm directly over your bed.  Mine in the hall almost did not wake
me.)  I would not rely on only 6" of clearance.  Building and electrical
codes are funny.  Controlled by the insurance companies (don't believe it?
look in the front of the NEC and observe the affiliations of the 
representatives.), the code is a patchwork of patches to past problems.
Seeing as insurance companies don't look much further than their noses,
not surprising that furnaces may not be addressed.  After all, you don't
see that many furnaces in a garage near a parking stall.  Seems like every
house gets its water heater there.

If I allowed flammable liquids in the area with that furnace, I'd look
into installing a combustible gas alarm on the floor and interlocking it
with the pilot light (or ignition circuit if pilotless.)  Should cost
under $100 total if you do the wiring.  Graybar, home depot and others
carry such monitors.

John
-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC               |Interested in high performance mobility?  
Performance Engineering Magazine (TM) |
Marietta, Ga                         |Interested in high tech and computers? 
jgd@dixie.com                        |Write me about PE Magazine
Need Usenet public Access in Atlanta?  Write Me for info on Dixie.com.
From: pete@carrera.wvus.org (Pete Gregory)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Home Air Conditioning recommendations wanted
Keywords: A/C, Air conditioning
Date: 21 Aug 92 15:19:00 GMT
Organization: Private System

jayantr@batph84.bnr.ca (Jayant Ragde) writes:

> 	Recently, the central air conditioning unit in
> my house conked out and I am looking at puttin in a
> new unit.  Before I make a decision I am trying to
> solicit some wisdom from the net - any particular
> brand to avoid, anything you really like about the
> unit you have, any special features to look for,
> maintenance experience with different makes etc.
> Hopefully being armed with all this information I
> will be able to make an educated ( (:- ) decision.

i bought a condo in a small complex (24 units) last year.  the units
are 10 years old now.  the previous owner of my unit put in a high-
efficiency Payne unit in two years ago.  i am told that it costs less
money than everyone else's A/C, and it is so quiet that we can hardly
hear it (especially compared to the neighbors' units), which is nice as
the outside unit is right under our bedroom window.

hence, if you're planning on living where you are for any length of time,
it may be worth more to get a high-efficiency model.  heck, even if you
are moving away in three months, a better-quality unit would make it
easier to sell your place.

you'll just have to educate yourself.  shop several places and 
eventually you'll find a salesman who isn't a schlepp, who can explain
these things to you in professional terms.

hope this helps.



Pete Gregory, at home

pete@carrera.wvus.org
ames!elroy!wvus!carrera!pete