HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: cyliao@iastate.edu (Chun-Yao Liao)
Subject: Re: Don't buy japanese(WHY?)
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames, IA
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1992 22:18:03 GMT

In article <1992Apr5.040620.1734@memstvx1.memst.edu> sowellrm@memstvx1.memst.edu writes:
>I don't know about cars, but Japanese audio and video equipment is better than
>anything that I can find produced anywhere else.  The quality is high and
>the price is right.  The only American audio equipment that I can find is
>high-end, very specialized, and over priced.

	I disagree with you here. Most Japanese audio made by electric giant
	are pretty bad compared to most European and American made audio
	equipemtn of about same class. They are not necessary to be over
	priced, just look inside, they use REAL stuff rather than cheapo
	IC/cap/res etc. Of course, American audios like Radio Shack is
        pretty bad too.

	For me, I appreciate more for natual sounding rather than BIG souding
	most japanese comsumer audio offer. 

	oops, this has nothing to do with rec.autos... sorry
	and I can't argue with any other of your point in yoru original 
	article.

	In my opinion, I LIKE American cars because they are comfortable,
	space, good ride, much more stable when driving on not so great
	road condition then most of the Japanese cars.
	American cars are great particulary for long distance trip.
	I didn't feel a thing till I realized the speadometer was giving
	me a reading of 110 mph. oops, and I slowed down immediately :)
	I mean, it was so stable that I didn't feel how fast I was driving:)

	Ok, I am a "good" driver and usually TRY keep "around" speed limit :)
	BTW, mind you peole "e-mail" me where and how can you drive
	at 140 mph without getting a ticket? sieh, don't tell anyone else :)



-- 
Chun-Yao Liao              |\   |  __ \  /-----                 -------------
cyliao@iastate.edu         | \  | /  \ \/   |              ------------
Department of EE and CprE  |  \ ||---- /\   |           ---------
Iowa State University      |   \| \__ /  \  |Mail OK, I have MailService.
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Engine Braking - what causes it?
Date: 7 Apr 92 20:15:29 GMT
Organization: Naval Ocean Systems Center, San Diego

In article <1992Apr6.210956.19514@qualcomm.com> ganapath@tahoe.qualcomm.com (Chinnappa Ganapathy) writes:
>What causes engine braking?  I'm sure there are a number of factors
>including friction and de-compression.  What else?  Also, to what extent
>do the different factors affect engine braking?  e.g. Will better
>lubrication decrease engine braking?  How much?

predominantly, the action of trying to pull intake air past a closed throttle
plate is the source of 'engine-braking'...  don't believe someone saying
'compression' because *that* is *not* true -- Diesels essentially freewheel,
i.e. there is far *less* engine braking with a Diesel than with a gasoline
engine (all other factors equal).

walt k.
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: ak333@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Martin Linsenbigler)
Subject: Re: Goodyear service experience
Reply-To: ak333@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Martin Linsenbigler)
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 92 05:40:15 GMT


In a previous article, brosen@phx.mcd.mot.com (Bruce Rosenkrantz) says:

***TEXT DELETED***

>to lube the lower ball joints.  I had to remove the front tires to get my
>grease fitting on and that is when I discovered the lug nuts were hard
>to remove.  I was able to remove the left wheel after loosening the
>extremely tight nuts.  When I got to the right wheel I found one nut was
>not coming off without much force and lots of WD40.  After I got it
>off I saw the outer 1/4 inch of threads on the wheel stud were chewed 
>and stripped beyond hope.  The nug was not reusable.
>
>I need not guess how this happened since no other service was done to
>the wheels since Goodyear had there hands or power impact wrench
>on them.  I am certian that an inexperienced grease monkey with
>and impact wrench cross-threaded the nut and just forced it on 
>using the power impact wrench when installing the new tires at
>Goodyear.
>
>I am very angry and want all the wheels inspected and any of the
>stripped lug nuts and studs replaced at the expense of Goodyear. 
>
>The real question is do I trust them to do this work or
>should I take the van to another shop and let Goodyear pay the bill.
>
>	Bruce Rosenkrantz
>
>bruce@phx.mcd.mot.com
>

   Most all good tire places use a torque wrench to do the final 
   tightening of the lug nuts.  This is ususally 85-90 ft lbs.

   I do this myself also at home.

   C-ya..... /\/\artin
-- 
  This communication is sent by    /\/\artin   University of Arizona Tucson
  =========================================================================
  ak333@cleveland.freenet.edu   mlinsenb@ccit.arizona.edu  mlinsenb@arizvms
  DEATH HAS BEEN DEAD FOR ABOUT 2,000 YEARS ****** FOLLOW THE KING OF KINGS
From: jim@mwhhlaw (James P. Cavanaugh III)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: rust proofing
Date: 13 Apr 92 21:46:42 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Martin_Wade_Hartley_&_Hollingsworth

In article <1992Apr11.222109.345@geovision.gvc.com>  
barry@geovision.gvc.com (Barry Comer) writes:
> Which is the best rust proofing to get?  Good question 8-).
> 
> I was thinking of getting Rust Check.  They charge about $100.00 per  
year
> and offer a lifetime warr.  The only problem I have with this is that  
they
> drill holes in the car to get behind the pillers(makes sense I  
guess).
> 
> What experience have you folks had with rust proofing?
> 
> My experience is mainly with Ziebart.  Back in the late 70's, a  
friend had a 70 Falcon which had been purchased around '71.  It had  
been "Ziebarted" when new.  3rd generation Falcons were not  
particularly rust-resistant cars in northern Indiana, but this Falcon's  
sheetmetal had no rust holes until the early 1980's, and then only in  
the areas where the little plastic plugs had fallen out.  This car  
never got any updates on the rustproofing, and was not too well taken  
care of.  If it was washed 6 times a year, I'd be surprised.  
	Anyhow, that Falcon sold me on Ziebart.  When my mother bought  
a new Crown Vic in '85, she got the Ziebart treatment on my  
recommendation.  The next couple of years should tell the tale on that  
car.  
	I also knew somebody with a '78 Camaro, treated when new with  
Tuffkote Dynol (sp?).  The original owner still drives it.  It spent  
the first 10 years in northern and central Indiana, and was getting  
some little rear quarter panel perforation at 8 or 9 years old.  So far  
as I know, it never got any successive treatments.  By age 8 or 9, most  
'78 Camaros in this climate looked a heckuvalot worse. My guess is that  
it would have looked better yet with Ziebart, but this is pure  
speculation.
	Actually, it appears that the U.S. manufacturers have largely  
eliminated the rust problem for most owners over the first 8-10 years,  
at least in this area.  15 years ago, I could travel to the southern  
states and see pristine versions of all the northern rust buckets.   
These days, the southern cars don't look much different from those  
around here.  As for Honda and the other japaneese cars (or german  
cars, for that matter),  they are getting better, but there are some  
pretty rusty examples from the early 80's running around in salt  
country.

Jim
	 
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: mgarber@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Max D Garber)
Subject: ++HOW GOOD ARE THE'COLOR MATCH'PRODUCTS?++
Summary: How are the products that they advertise on TV?
Organization: The Ohio State University
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1992 15:29:56 GMT

I have seen the comercials on TV for the 'COLOR MATCH' products (also by other 
names) and am wondering how good they really are?

     Do these products really cover up small scratches and bring back a 
shinnier finish to older cars?  If anyone out there has tried these products, 
or has some inside insight on these products please email me at 
"maxee-d+@osu.edu" and tell me what you know, or reply to this post on the net
so that others can benefit from your knowledge!!

I appreciate your time-

MAXEE D
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: pauly@netcom.com (Paul Yoshimune)
Subject: 92 Stealth...
Date: Wed, 08 Apr 92 08:31:42 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 

I'm really bad about keeping mail or remembering who sent it to me.  So, for
whoever was looking for part numbers for their '92 Stealth (Mike?), here it is:

Fram: PH3593A (oil), CA7142 (air), G7182 (gas)
Wix: 51334 (oil), 46057 (air), 33500 (gas)

The latest catalog I have at work for K&N is 1991, and they don't show a filter
number for the Stealth yet.  When I get more information I'll be sure to post...

-- 
-Paul Yoshimune [pauly@netcom.com]
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: tristen@cs.UAlberta.CA (Rasmussen Tristen J)
Subject: Are there any 4X4 mailing lists?
Organization: University of Alberta, Edmonton, Canada
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 02:58:35 GMT


Does anyone know of any 4x4 or off-road mailing lists?
I would appreciate hearing about any such mailing lists.
 
 Thanks in advance.
 Tristen.
From: lstowell@pyrnova.pyramid.com (Lon Stowell)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Engine Braking - what causes it?
Date: 14 Apr 92 01:43:25 GMT
Reply-To: lstowell@pyrnova.pyramid.com (Lon Stowell)
Organization: Pyramid Technology Corp., Mountain View, CA

>In article <5313@nosc.NOSC.MIL> koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz) writes:
>>predominantly, the action of trying to pull intake air past a closed throttle
>>plate is the source of 'engine-braking'...  don't believe someone saying
>>'compression' because *that* is *not* true -- Diesels essentially freewheel,
>>i.e. there is far *less* engine braking with a Diesel than with a gasoline
>>engine (all other factors equal).
>
In article <1992Apr9.152911.12379@cabot.balltown.cma.COM> welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty) writes:
>!?!??!
>
>well, i'm not familiar with Walt's treasured mopar products, but
>my mother's 1977 Mercedes 300D most assuredly has significant
>engine braking behaviour when you lift up on the throttle; quite
>a lot more than any gasoline powered car i've ever driven.
>
>perhaps Walt is generalizing from too small a sample set?
>
   Beats me, Richard.  I'm still waiting for someone (from the
   closed throttle camp) to tell me where an engine gets the power
   to push the pistons up against compression...which takes a HECK
   of a lot more energy than sucking wind.  That's why some diesels
   pop a valve open for starting and freewheeling...
From: jjn@cbjjn.cb.att.com (Jeff Nappi)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: <<< Mustang Powered Miata >>>
Date: 13 Apr 92 13:41:07 GMT
Organization: AT&T Bell Labs

In article <1992Apr9.191325.20822@hubcap.clemson.edu>, lharris@hubcap.clemson.edu (Larry Harris) writes:
|> tires every month.  The Mustang also leaves plenty of room for the shade
|> tree mechanic to make his own improvements, something those sealed
|> engine Japanese cars don't offer (I'm not really critisizing them for
|> it, though).
|> 

This just isn't true, next to the Corvette and Mustang the RX7 has more
aftermarket parts then anyone. HKS offers a host of aftermarket parts
for all kinds of Japanese high performace cars. I think the biggest
problem nowadays is people just don't seem to want to educate themselves
on whats under the hood these days.
		
-- 
Jeff Nappi
Columbus Bell Labs
jjn@cbjjn.att.com
From: jimk@wpi.WPI.EDU (James Matthew Kokernak)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: The GODs are telling you something (Was: Re: Common electrical problem
Date: 17 Apr 92 01:42:34 GMT
Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute

In article <1992Apr16.152023.6673@wpi.WPI.EDU> gregc@yaya (Gregory M Charland) writes:
>In article <1992Apr16.115322.29177@wpi.WPI.EDU> jayg@wpi.WPI.EDU (Jay Giurleo) writes:
>>In article <1992Apr14.144500.1371@balr.com> andy@balr.com (Andrew Little) writes:
>>> [Story about holding metal part to avoid shocks]
>>>I have been tempted to drop a length of wire from the frame to the
>>>road to keep the car grounded, but my wife thinks I'm crazy.
>>
>>I think it's just static electricity, nothing much more than that.
>>
>>
>>I went to open my trunk yesterday, and when my key was about 1/4" from the
>>lock, the charge arced across the gap! Ouch!  
>>
>>Don't they sell straps you can put on that drag on the ground for that
>>purpose?  I think I've seen them. (Probably as useful as curb feelers,
>>huh? :) )
>
>   Unfortunately, that won't help the problem.  Ya see, when you drag your
>butt across that nice cloth seat, you build up a static charge (proportional
>to the size of your butt and the width of the seat :), and when you touch
>the door to close it you dissapate that charge.
>   So, you can either:
>        a) hold a grounded metal part as you slide out of the seat.  This
>           allows the charge to be given off as it accumulates.
>        b) put a grounding wire in your shoe, slam the door on it so it
>           touches the ground,  (same thing, just more uncomfortable)
>        c) get vinyl or leather seats!
>   Dragging a wire mounted to the car won't help IN MOST CASES 'cause
>the charge is building up on you not on the car.
>
>   Ain't electricity wonderful?
>-- 
>     ---------------------------------------------
>      Gregory M. Charland-----> gregc@wpi.wpi.edu  
>     ---------------------------------------------  

Actually, the grounding straps were used for just the above reason...static.
They are not as popular now because they ground your car, and antennas can
acy like good lightning rods.

The static charge that builds up is caused by road friction. This charge builds
up ON THE VEHICLE. You remain at the same potential as the vehicle, until you 
step on the ground. If the charge were only on you, and you were at a diff-
erent potential than the chassis, you would get a jolt regardless of whether 
you were on the ground or not. As you step onto the ground, your potential 
changes, (your static charge discharges to ground), and you touch the car 
and get blasted. A good way to minimize the shock is grab the door quickly, 
to quench the arc. The type of seats do seem to enhance the effect, however,
wearing a leather/suede jacket will do the same.

--Jim
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: dclayton@bcarh692.bnr.ca (Don Clayton)
Subject: Re: American engines oversized,underpowered ?
Organization: Bell Northern Research, Ottawa, Canada
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1992 19:03:23 GMT

In article <smrraINN6jg@sixgun.East.Sun.COM> mike@gilligan.Sun.COM (Mike Roncadori - Information Resources) writes:
>In article <1992Apr16.184050.7018@bnr.ca>, dclayton@bnr.ca (Don Clayton) writes:
>> Canadains are so brain dead, makes me think they're from the states
>
>Why do you say this? Is every US citizen you've ever come in con-
>tact with stupid?
>
>If you hate US citizens, or the US, why don't you just say it?

No, but I'm starting to hate you.

<some spelling mistakes and typing mistakes pointed out in great detail
and no counter arguments or relevant discussion>

>
>	I don't know about the rest of you, but I am growing very
>tired of listening to Don infer that all US citizens are border-
>line illiterate, while simultaneously slaughtering Webster's dic-
>tionary with every post.

Could you please find the post where I claimed that US citizens
are illiterate.  What I said was that many of them are incredibly
self centered - like you, oh mighty god of grammar.

>
>	You, Don, are the one that cannot seem to master the use
>of the english language. Your poor grammar, excessive misspelling,
>and "fat-finger" typing skills do nothing but detract from the
>credibility of your posts. If I may be so bold, I'd suggest that
>you have someone with a reading level greater than the 6th grade
>proof your posts before you send them. You may think that spelling
>and grammar don't count in this forum; but like it or not, people
>judge you by what they read. I'm not impressed.

I'm crushed.

>
>	I apologize for bitching like this. It just grinds me to
>hear to a person rant about stupidity, then make themselves look
>damned near illiterate in the same breath.
>
>Say whatever you will, Don... Your opinion doesn't mean d**k
>to me.

Then why respond?  If you could really care less then why even
read them?  You can just delete them you know.

I apologize for my spelling mistakes, but unlike some others on
this forum I am not perfect and do not have hours and hours each 
day to check all of my posts over and over to make absolutely sure
that I never make a mistake ever!  If this does not meet with your
god-like approval I humbly apologize and beg for forgiveness.

Now that the english professor is done can we get back to discussing
why North American cars are so big.

Don
BNR has better things to do then tell me what to say on Internet,
  so I hardly think these are their views.
"Pick up the receiver, I'll make you a believer." - Depeche Mode
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Newsgroups: rec.autos

 I had an '86 MR2 for a couple of years.  It was great.  Nimble, fun-to-drive,
 economical, and reliable.  The only reason I sold it was to get a 
 supercharged version because I wanted more power.  

 The engine is a 1.6 l but, off hand, I forget the hp.  115?

 There are two trunks.  One in the front and one in the back.  Both are small,
 but you get used to it.  The back one is perfectly shaped for about 7 
 grocery bags.  The only real drawback is luggage.  There's nowhere to put
 a suitcase.  

 The car handles great.  The visibility is pretty good for a mid-engined car.
 A slight blindspot over the left shoulder when changing lanes, but nowhere
 near as bad as a Fiero, Esprit, etc...

 Problems?  The only problems we experienced were a rattling sound around
 3500 rpm which turned out to be a loose heat shield on the exhaust, a 
 sticky throttle plate which required some adjustment, and some pinging
 that required a mixture adjustment.  Otherwise, all it needed was oil changes.
 I had the car until we had around 52k miles on it and it was nowhere near
 needing a new clutch.  

 If you can afford it, go for a supercharged one ('88 & '89).  Either way,
 I think you'll be happy with an MR2.

 Maurice <Viperholic> Liang

Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: rick@posms.cactus.org (Rick Kirchhof)
Subject: Re: Engine Braking - what causes it?
Organization: Department of Redundancy Dept., Austin
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 04:33:51 GMT
Summary: Engine size vs vehicle weight is different

I have followed this topic with interest, and would like to suggest an
angle not mentioned.  While it is true that spark ignition engines have a
throttle valve and it's angle greatly effects the amount of pumping
restriction (and engine braking there is on decel, compression ignition 
engines use much higher compression ratios.  This means that if you try 
to turn over a compression ignition (diesel) engine with a starter motor, 
the starter had better have some guts.  Stronger, more expensive starters 
and dual (or huge) batterys used in the compression ignition engines are 
evidence of this.

That said, I haven't seen any mention of the total vehicle weight vs the
engine displacement.  Truck-tractors have *much* more weight pushing each
unit of engine displacement on deceleration than do car engines.  This
tends to wipe out the natural engine braking activity.  Cars with
compression ignition engines seem to notice the engine braking simply 
because the engines are so much harder to rotate than the spark ignition 
ones.  As mentioned by others, the engine braking systems can be very 
effective on big diesel trucks, and tend to even out the extra weight 
situation.
-- 
Rick Kirchhof   Austin, Texas                   | Experience is what you
Domain: rick@posms.cactus.org                   | get when you don't
Bang path: ...!cs.utexas.edu!peyote!posms!rick  | get what you want.            
===========================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.autos,rec.autos.vw
From: vinay@sail.LABS.TEK.COM (Vinay Sathe)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Insurance recommendations and "Admitted" insurance companies
Date: 7 Apr 92 22:51:11 GMT
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Beaverton,  OR.

In article <2991@eastman.UUCP> commisso@kodak.com (Susanne Commisso) writes:
>A strong recommendation on insurance companies not to deal with:
>
>	NATIONWIDE!!!!!
>
>I have had nothing but trouble with them.  You pay, pay , pay and
>
	Funny! I had enquired about Nationwide a few weeks ago
	on the net. All 5 responses I got were positive. I don't 
	have any personal experience with them, though. 

	Vinay
	vinay@sail.labs.tek.com
>susan
From: ae01045
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: photo radar
Date: 9 Apr 92 18:43:00 GMT
Article-I.D.: vx.9APR199213431960
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Minnesota CIS
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <CARL.92Apr9111527@atlantis.Cayman.COM>, carl@Cayman.COM (Carl Heinzl) writes...
> 
>If need be, request a jury trial which usually makes it a criminal
>offense and then THEY have to prove it was you.
> 
>-Carl-
>--

In Germany the vast majority of tickets are given after you get through
a photo radar trap. I have never seen any police cars waiting to catch
somebody speeding. Those photos are taken with a flash so normally
you can see quite well who sits behind the wheel. If for whatever reason
the person is not recogniseable and you deny to be the driver - you can
say it was a relative and you cannot name it, because you do not have
to incriminate close relatives - they will give you a so called 'logbook'
in which you have to keep track of who drives when.

In fact they do not use photos only for speeding but also for passing
a red light. That involves two photos at a certain interval of time.

They use photos or videos to track the 'tailgaitors' (sp?) on the Autobahn.
People who drove in Germany might have seen that before some bridges
over the Autobahn they have lines at a certain distance of each other on the
road. If they prove that you harrassed somebody over a certain distance
than you have to pay.

I think the patrols are more for general check and to report for traffic
congestions.

They do something there which I have seen her done only for trucks. That is:
they check the weight of you car. If it is higher than the maximum allowed
weight written in your papers for the car, you have to unload and send it 
by train or whatever.

Peter
From: vinay@sail.LABS.TEK.COM (Vinay Sathe)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Passing cars on the right...why?
Date: 14 Apr 92 22:55:00 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Beaverton,  OR.


	An interesting experience from Germany: 
	

	A couple of years ago I took a ride from 
	Frankfurt to Munich. On a stretch of the Autobahn, 
	there were only two cars in sight. One was ours, 
	driving at about 90mph rapidly approaching the 
	other car driving in left lane at ~ 50 mph. 
	The German guy driving our car slowed 
	down and stayed behind this car for about 2 minutes. 
	He was trying various tricks (hi- beam etc) to 
	get the slow car move to right.

	When asked why he didn't pass this vehicle from 
	the right, he said something to the effect that 
	it was illegal in Germany... to the extent that 
	your license could be taken away if caught. 

	German netters might want to comment..

	Vinay Sathe 
	vinay@sail.labs.tek.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: Peter A. Cohen <peterco@eff.org>
Subject: Re: American engines oversized,underpowered ?
Organization: ON Technology, Inc.
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1a2
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1992 16:14:44 GMT

Please forgive me for fanning the flames, but...

In article  Alan Edward Petrillo, ap2z+@andrew.cmu.edu writes:

>    Is it me or is this tone inappropriate for one of the more
>interesting threads we've had in a while?

The tone of the question that started this thread was "inappropriate,"
according to your definition.  Please let the thread run its course
without editorializing the merits of the poster's personalities.

- Peter