HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca (Andy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Rolling a Civic..
Date: 10 Apr 92 19:29:34 GMT
Distribution: dal
Organization: Math, Stats & CS, Dalhousie University, Halifax, NS, Canada

In <1992Apr10.082735.12809@cpsc.ucalgary.ca> schaffer@cpsc.ucalgary.ca (Doug Schaffer) writes:

>In article <1992Apr7.153148.23534@news.cs.brandeis.edu> andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang) writes:
>>In article <7jnjaj=.pauly@netcom.com> pauly@netcom.com (Paul Yoshimune) writes:
>>>Yes, it can be done, but you'd have to hit it just right.  In general, a car
>>>like a Civic will plow the front end if subjected to a very hard turn all of
>>>a sudden.  Were you to toss the car one way, then immediately go the other,
>>>it would be more likely to pitch the car.  Other cars, like Rabbits, are more
>>>prone to rolling the car.  In fact, you often see Rabbits, GTIs, and 2002s
>>>lifting the inner rear wheel when cornering excessively hard...

>>Actually Rabbits and 2002s are lifting the rear wheel just to reduce
>>tire wear.  Except for the male rabbits, which dribble brake fluid
>>instead.
>>
>>I don't think that lifting the wheel is an indication that the car is
>>more likely to roll.  It's certainly an indication of rear roll
>>stiffness, but with so much of the mass in the front, lifting a rear
>>wheel isn't much of an issue.  The best driven rabbits at Bryar NH try
>>to get the wheel lifted throughout the entirety of turn 1.  With a
>>2002, you lose power so it isn't such a good move.

>A guy I autocrossed against in a VW Golf used to lift his rear tires over
>the pilons rather than go around them!! He didn't do this always, but often
>enough that he got to be known for it.  I don't know if it really straightened
>out his line or not, since he still kept both fronts on the ground.

>Doug Schaffer, University of Calgary, schaffer@cpsc.ucalgary.ca

I have a GTI that I slalom. Above description fits my car! They say that I
cheat, because I go over instead around pilons. By the way, you will plow
a Golf if you enter a rurn too fast. The back will slide if you are going
fast around a turn, and the whole car will slide is you go even faster. 
This is from experiance. I dodn't know the limit for spinning, and to tell
you the truth, I don't really want to!
-- 
---....-------------****----*******-) GTI FUN-atic                      o  
--. \/ .-----GTI---******--*********)         Don't forget to bike:     ,-\
--.\/\/.-----------******--*********)  (and sail and windsurf and ski)  0\-0
---....-------------****----*******-) gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca,goaway@ac.dal.ca
From: wyl@mahoosuc.NSD.3Com.COM
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: 90 Accord Sun Visor
Date: 10 Apr 92 18:45:16 GMT


	The sun visor was broken due to the defect design of 
	the automatic seat belt which clashed it.

	Can I replace just the rod of the sun visor from the
	lower years model? Current model cars are hard to find in
	local auto wrecking. Anyone have an alternative other
	than getting a new one from dealer?

Alan Wang
From: bspahh@gdr.bath.ac.uk (Andrew Henry)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Lifting wheels was Re: Rolling a Civic..
Keywords: Senna kart bravery
Date: 10 Apr 92 12:32:11 GMT
Organization: School of Biological Sciences, University of Bath, UK

In article <1992Apr10.082735.12809@cpsc.ucalgary.ca> schaffer@cpsc.ucalgary.ca (Doug Schaffer) writes:
>In article <1992Apr7.153148.23534@news.cs.brandeis.edu> andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang) writes:
>>I don't think that lifting the wheel is an indication that the car is
>>more likely to roll.  It's certainly an indication of rear roll
>>stiffness, but with so much of the mass in the front, lifting a rear
>>wheel isn't much of an issue.  The best driven rabbits at Bryar NH try
>>to get the wheel lifted throughout the entirety of turn 1.  With a
>>2002, you lose power so it isn't such a good move.
>
>A guy I autocrossed against in a VW Golf used to lift his rear tires over
>the pilons rather than go around them!! He didn't do this always, but often
>enough that he got to be known for it.  I don't know if it really straightened
>out his line or not, since he still kept both fronts on the ground.

This used to be one of Ayrton Senna's party tricks when he was driving karts.  
He would lean his body out on some corners so that he could lift both inside 
wheels over the kerb!

			Andrew  Henry
Sempre  Gilles					bspahh@gdr.bath.ac.uk
From: spidell@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 00:04:22 GMT
Subject: Re: Octane reduces pinging (was Re: Fuel octane versus power)
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

rspangle@tazdevil.llnl.gov (Randy Spangler) writes: 

>When I finally got a timing light, I discovered that the timing was advanced
>to 4 degrees ATDC, when my repair manual stated that it should be at 0 TDC.
>
>So I retimed it, and the pinging disappeared, but so did most of my
>acceleration at 65+ mph (no jokes about how there wasn't any
>acceleration to begin with, please).
>
>After advancing back to somewhere 2-3 degrees ATDC and using 89 octane
>instead of 87 octane, the pinging is negligible, and I seem to have more
>acceleration at freeway speeds than I did originally.  My guess is that
>I'm not losing any power to detonation now.

I'm a little confused here.  Usually, ATDC means "After Top Dead Center,"
i.e. timing is retarded.  BTDC means "Before Top Dead Center," i.e.
timing is advanced.  If you changed the timing from TDC to 2-3 degrees
ATDC, you retarded the timing, unless Hondas use different terminology
from every other car, including my Subaru.  Maybe ATDC means Advanced from
TDC, but it's a new one on me.

Regards,
bs




Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: garnett@theory.TC.Cornell.EDU (Roger Garnett)
Subject: Re: Gets hot and dies...
Organization: Cornell University
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1992 11:45:00 GMT


In article <1992Apr7.112626.2271@ducvax.auburn.edu> writes:
>	I've got a 1950 Ford, with 4-cylinder L-head engine much like a Model
>A.  The electrical system is 6-volt.  I've got a problem with the engine just
>dying and not re-starting.  Here is the scenario--

>spark-related, and I think plugs-points-condenser-wires would do the trick.  I 

You've got it easy- you can get at your distributer! The front-mount job
on my '39 9N is a real pain. Anyhow- definitly try the tune up, especially
the condensor. I was replacing the condensor on my 9N at lease once a year-
I was using whatever Central Tractor was selling for replacements, and that
may have been the problem. I tried new wires, new coil, etc, but it kept
happening. Points were getting pitted much too fast. I tested the
condensors, and they were open. Maybe the moisture got to it, maybe I was
just unlucky, but since I used a different brand condensor from a different
source, it's been fine.  (2 years now.) We'll see...
______________________________________________________________
Roger Garnett  (sggy@crux1.cit.cornell.edu)     (607) 255-2522
Cornell University Agricultural Economics       Ithaca, N.Y.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: lee@quark2.aero.org
Subject: GM 3.1L V6 Oil Changing
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Reply-To: lee@arecibo.aero.org
Organization: The Aerospace Corporation
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1992 16:30:00 GMT

Hi, I just bought a '92 Pontiac Sunbird with the 3.1L V6 engine.  I would
like to do my own maintanance so I bought the Helms service manual for it
(official GM manual).  I was appalled when I could not find any mention
of an oil drain plug in the manual!!  So the question for all you people
who have cars with the same engine (it is used in many late model Pontiac,
Chevy, Oldsmobile, and Buick cars) is: does this thing have an oil drain
plug?  I have not put the car on a lift (not time for an oil change yet),
so I would like to hear from you wise people out there :-).  Is this
service manual that I got worthless, or is there some new fangled way to
change oil?

Thanks!

Note: the manual clearly diagrams a drain plug for the V4 engine, but not
the V6.  The only way that I can tell from the manual to get the oil out
is to remove the oil filter, but that's a really awkward way to do it!
From: Steve.Kaess@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Steve Kaess)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: OXS light on '81 Jetta needs to be reset...
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1992 21:43:54 -0500

Look from the trans toward the drivers side of the engine compartment. 
 there will be a black cable casing going to a small box which will  
have a cable going through the firewall.  there is a magic button 
on the box.  


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ae454@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Paul Simundza)
Subject: Where to buy Car diagnostics computer???
Reply-To: ae454@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Paul Simundza)
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 92 03:50:54 GMT


my friend is looking to buy one of those computer diagnostic things
made for newer cars, which tell you the car's condition according to
the car's computer chip and so forth..

The cheapest he could find was one at SEARS for $400....He wants to
know if anyone can locate a cheaper deal....

-- 
Paul Simundza                              Mail:ae454@cwru.edu
                                           Compuserve:71441,217
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@cica4.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: Fuel octane, Carbon, pinging, etc
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1992 12:46:58 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 You might reduce pinging by running at a lower water temp. This may affect
efficiency slightly but I don't think by much. If you remove the head to
do valves or remove stubborn carbon, consider reducing compression ratio
by using a slightly thicker aftermarket head gasket. (This -will- reduce
performance slightly). Maybe being over there closer to VW, you can have an
easier time getting modified ignition parts - you might benefit from a
lower static or centrifugal advance and more vacuum advance, so you can
back off further under low vacuum conditions (of course if you are
computer controlled my advice is worth two bits).
--
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
From: joes@telxon (Joe Staudt)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Ford Probe
Date: 10 Apr 92 16:04:03 GMT
Reply-To: joes@telxon (Joe Staudt)
Distribution: world
Organization: Telxon Corporation, Akron Ohio (NNTP with a :-)

The original poster requested email replies, but my reply bounced. I
have therefore decided to post my reply.

Whoever the original poster was (I lost your name),  I suggest you 
double-check the email address that gets put into your posts.

In article <1992Apr8.042104.23584@acsu.buffalo.edu> you write:
>DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY INFORMATION AS TO WHAT ENGINES ARE USED IN A 1988
>FORD PROBE?  WHAT ENGINE DOES THE BASE MODEL HAVE?  ARE THERE ANY OTHER
>ENGINES AVAILABLE?  ALSO, DO YOU HAVE ANY PERFORMANCE DATA?  ANY INFO
>WOULD BE APPRECIATED.  IF POSSIBLE RESPOND BY E-MAIL.  THANKS IN ADVANCE.
>KEVIN ODELL 

The 1988 Probe used only one engine, a 2.2l 4 with 3 valves/cylinder and
fuel injection, made by Mazda.  The GT model used the same engine with a
turbocharger.  The base engine makes 100hp, the turbo, 140hp.

0-60 times: 9.6 seconds for the base engine, 7.8(?) for the turbo. (Both with
manual transmission.)  A very good 4-speed automatic is available with both
engines.  There is LOTS of torque steer under hard acceleration in 1st gear.

The LX model got a V6 in 1991 (or 90?), which I had the pleasure of driving
when in CA last year on business.  Very nice.

I own a 1988 Mazda MX-6, which is the mechanical twin of the Probe.  The
engine has pretty good torque and feels more powerful than it is.  The
5-speed manual is nice but a little notchy.  Gas mileage is 30-33mpg in a
mix that is mostly highway/rural; I have gotten 35mpg on long trips.  My
little sister has the same car with an automatic, and I have heard no
complaints from her about it.

In 67k miles, I have only performed scheduled maintenance on the engine,
except for the thermostat, which died at about 60k (during one of coldest
weeks of the year, I had no heat in the car!).

Hope this helps.

Joe
Joseph Staudt, Telxon Corp. | ...!uunet!telxon!joes || joes%telxon@uunet.uu.net
P.O. Box 5582               | In the force if Yoda is so strong, construct a
Akron, OH  44334-0582       |     sentence with words in the proper order then
(216) 867-3700 x3522        |     why can't he?
From: stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil (William Stoffel)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Oil change - pressure prime
Date: 17 Apr 92 16:12:58 GMT
Reply-To: stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil (William Stoffel)
Organization: CDNSWC, Annapolis Detachment (x-DTRC)

In rec.autos.tech, jhart@qa1.WichitaKS.NCR.COM (Jim Hart) writes:

>I cannot recall any net traffic on this subject - if there was, please
>forgive....

I don't recall any either.

>A lot of engine wear seems to occur during the initial engine start-up
>following an oil change.  It takes several seconds for the pressure to
>build and during that time you can usually hear a slight knock or other
>no-oil-related sounds.  Question - short of pulling the distributor and
>priming/pressurizing using a reversible drill with the appropriate shaft
>tool in the chuck, is there any product/device that will perform this
>function?  If such device is available, would its cost be reasonable
>enough to offset the amount of wear that would occur over the normal
>engine life?
>This no-lube-noise-wear has always grated on my nerves (as well as on
>bearings :-) ).  Anyone know of a solution, keeping the above restriction
>in mind?

I don't know if we're being paranoid or not, but this has always bothered
me too. I've never admitted it in public before, but I always fill the
new filter with new oil before screwing it into place in the theory
that this should reduce the time the journals turn without oil pressure.
Of course I can only do this cause all my vehicles have vertical oil
filters. Guess this wouldn't work very well with a side mount :-(

Now that I've admitted to this practice, anybody think it's a waste
of time?

Later - Bill
__________________________________________________________________________
Bill Stoffel              |  ADCDNSWC? (x-DTRC)  |                        |
stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil |  Code 2759           | This Space For Rent.   |
(410) 267-3825            |  Annapolis, MD 21402 |    Inquire Within      |
_________________________________________________|________________________|
From: borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: *Help w/Tach and Paint
Date: 9 Apr 92 21:20:35 GMT
Article-I.D.: hpspkla.31160041
Organization: Hewlett Packard Company, Spokane, Wa.

Is this distributor used on any cars that have tacs?  If so, where do
they connect it.  

If not, you will need an inductive pick-up, which will go either on
a spark plug wire or on the wire coming out of the coil.


Donald Borowski    WA6OMI    Hewlett-Packard, Spokane Division
"Angels are able to fly because they take themselves so lightly."
                                       -G.K. Chesterton
From: hacker@cco.caltech.edu (Jonathan Bruce Hacker)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Carburetor Cleanup
Date: 12 Apr 92 23:55:12 GMT
Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena

sgm@otter.hpl.hp.com (Steve Methley) writes:


>You just go out and buy an aerosol can of any brand carburettor cleaner.  No
>elbow grease req'd !!  It contains xylene, toluene and other nasties so wear
>gloves and eye protection at least.  Work in a ventilated area.


XYLENE!!!

Be aware that xylene is readily absorbed through the skin
and mucous membranes.

Xylene causes corneal vacuolation, dermatitis, reproductive
effects, and birth defects.  (from material data sheet)

Wear gloves, and don't breathe the fumes.  Better yet, wear a 
mask or use a fume hood.

-- 
Jon Hacker
Caltech, Pasadena CA
hacker@tumbler-ridge.caltech.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rudis+@CS.CMU.EDU (Rujith S DeSilva)
Subject: So what is octane, anyway?
Date: Thu, 09 Apr 92 04:04:37 GMT
Organization: Carnegie Mellon University

Forgive this novice question, but the on-going discussion on octane/power has really confused me.  I remember reading that a long time ago that the octane system was designed by:
	o Assigning the value 0 to the worst known fuel (say BAD-FUEL)
	o Assigning the value 100 to the best known fuel (say GOOD-FUEL)
	o Calibrating other fuels against the above two.  For instance, if some
	  fuel was equivalent to a 30/70 mixture of BAD-FUEL/GOOD-FUEL, it was
	  assigned octane 70.

Later, better fuels than GOOD-FUEL were found, and these have been logically
assigned octane ratings greater than 100.

Is this basically correct?  If so, what were BAD-FUEL and GOOD-FUEL?  By what
criterion were they the worst/best at the time?  Are the mixtures I referred to
by weight or by volume, and by what criterion was the mixture considered
`equivalent' to the fuel being calibrated?  If not, what is octane anyway?

Rujith de Silva.
Carnegie-Mellon University.
From: philw@vice.ICO.TEK.COM (Philip White)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Turbocharger VS. Supercharger.
Date: 9 Apr 92 00:19:21 GMT
Organization: Tektronix Inc., Beaverton, Or.

In article <1992Apr8.200840.8904@cbnewsd.cb.att.com> bohdan@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (bohdan.l.bodnar) writes:
>In article <1992Apr8.110517.7908@ohm.york.ac.uk> u8acb@ohm.york.ac.uk (Alex Barclay) writes:
>>BTW Does anyone know of a book something along the lines of "INTERNAL
>>COMBUSTION ENGINES MADE QUITE TOUGH WITH ALL THE MATHS" well perhaps not
>>that strong but certainly not a Kevin soups up his Mk 1 Escort by buying
>>bits off the shelf type book. No offence to Mk 1 Escort engine tuners
>>who know what they're doing here ;-)
>>
>>			Alex.
>
>See if you can get a hold of COMBUSTION ENGINE PROCESSES (don't recall the
>author).
>Bohdan Bodnar

I have a copy of Combustion Engine Processes at home, it's at least 15 years
old by now, author is Lichty (first name Gordon I think).
It's a textbook published in the USA, Lichty was a professor at a US
university.  He refers to lots of papers from the Society of Automotive
Engineers.  A background in thermodynamics would help a lot to understand
the book, so I don't understand some of it anymore....

Write or e-mail for more info...

      Phil White   Tektronix, Beaverton, OR
USENET:   philip.w.white@tek.com (or perhaps philw@vice.ICO.TEK.COM)
 US Mail: Mail Stop 59-432, P.O. Box 500, Beaverton OR USA 97077-0001
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jayg@wpi.WPI.EDU (Jay Giurleo)
Subject: Re: 90 Accord Sun Visor
Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1992 17:33:05 GMT


> The sun visor was broken due to the defect design of
> the automatic seat belt which clashed it.
>
> Can I replace just the rod of the sun visor from the

The same thing happened to me, once, and I went to my dealer who gave
me a new one for free.  What a stupid design, huh?  I hate
motorized belts anyway, but to have them break things in the car too...
well that's a little much for me!  
--
From: osborne@uhunix.uhcc.Hawaii.Edu (Larry N. Osborne)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Engine Temp Quickly "Surges" Up & Down
Date: 7 Apr 92 23:53:57 GMT
Article-I.D.: news.1992Apr7.235357.12207
Organization: University of Hawaii

In article <1992Apr7.171505.15405@usenet.ins.cwru.edu>
ai065@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Thomas Hill) writes:

>   I was driving down the highway the other day with the engine temp right
>where it should be in the middle of the temp gage. Suddenly the engine temp
>climbed to the max level within a few seconds, stayed there for about two
>minutes, and then slowly went back into the normal range. Is this a bad
>gage or is something else wrong? Also, I changed the thermostat about four
>months ago.

Happened to me three times:  Once it was a bad water pump, once frozen
hoses, and once (blush) low water level.  

-oz
--
osborne@uhunix.uhcc.hawaii.edu (preferred)      | Larry N Osborne
osborne@uhunix.bitnet                           | SLIS, 2550 The Mall
fax +1 808 956 5835                             | University of Hawaii at Manoa
or via W.A.S.T.E.                               | Honolulu, Hawaii  96822
From: koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: trivia answer  WAS: Re: Turbocharger VS. Supercharger.
Date: 7 Apr 92 13:58:34 GMT
Article-I.D.: nosc.5310
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Organization: Naval Ocean Systems Center, San Diego

question was:

	what does the designation 6-71 mean when used in connection with 
	discussion of a roots-type mechanically-driven supercharger?

answer is:

	it is a blower of the capacity used on a GMC/Detroit Diesel
	6-cylinder engine of 71 cid displacement per cylinder.

walt k.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sasclh@unx.sas.com (Cary Hatch)
Subject: G.M. (late model) pickups (ROAR)  
Reply-To: sasclh@unx.sas.com (Cary Hatch)
Organization: SAS Institute Inc.
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1992 15:01:41 GMT
X-Bytes: 1268

I have a 91 GMC half ton pickup...

   Vortec V6 (4.3 litre) (3/4 of the 350 v8) ;-)
   Automatic (overdrive)

My pickup and all other (that I know of) later model 
g.m. pickups (gasoline) make a "roaring" noise in the 
first 5 seconds or so of acceleration, only upon start 
up.  It doesn't matter whether the vechicle is cold or 
warm.  Any time after starting the vehicle and putting 
in gear and accelerating normally the "roar" will occur.
After the initial "roar" the vehicle operates quietly 
and normally...  The phenom is described to me by other
people I work with in the following vehicles:  an S15 (4.3),
a chevy 1/2 ton 350, and an asto van (4.3) all automatics...

The "roaring" phenom has a distinct "look & feel" very
hard to describe.  It sure feels like during this 
period the power is reduced but could be just the feel
of it...  I suspect something to do with emissions and  
vehicle warmup...

Queries to the dealer have been less than satisfactory
(any surprises there ???).  I know I can get a more 
informed (at least honest) response here...  besides 
I'll bet there are a few of you out there with chevy 
trucks :-)  (please no ford/chrylser/toyota/datsun/
mistsubish.etc... flames)

OK!  All you automotive wizards:  WHAT IS IT ???

Cary 

From: mdrayton@hpmwtd.HP.COM (Mike Drayton)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1992 18:02:43 GMT
Subject: Re: New Group. was  Re: Turbocharger VS. Supercharger.
Organization: HP Santa Rosa Site (NMD MTA MWTD). - Santa Rosa, Ca.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

 johnson@wrs.com (David Johnson) writes:
>Why don't we start up a new group called rec.autos.tech.help, because none
>of these posts are helping at all.
[stuff deleted]
>It has turned from a gripe about the condescending nature of some veteran 
>subscribers, into the age old grudge of "my supercharger can beat the &#%@!
>out of your turbocharger!" 
----------
I haven't seen much of this, myself.  I admit to writing the article
about the '73 Gremlin, which was 100% B.S., but mostly I've seen
sincere questions and conscientious replies.  I _have_ noticed the
same questions over and over again, sometimes before the last exchange
on the subject expires off my system (I'm thinking specifically of the
'milky oil' problem).  I'd suggest that people at least scan the
subject lines of what's current before posting new questions.

Mike Drayton 
mdrayton@sr.hp.com