HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: tse@ra.nrl.navy.mil (Anthony Tse)
Subject: Re: Anyone do their own C41 developing?
Organization: Naval Research Lab, Washington, DC
Distribution: rec
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1992 21:32:56 GMT

In article <PHR.92Dec27015244@napa.telebit.com> phr@telebit.com (Paul Rubin) writes:
>How difficult is it compared with black and white developing?  Is it
>very sensitive to temperature variation during processing, precise
>chemical concentration and development timing, impurities, etc.?  Are
>the chemicals especially toxic compared to black-and-white chemicals?

   It's not difficult.  It's boring.  Takes longer, more steps.
Don't know why anyone want to put themselves through C41.  You
just follow the instruction and an 30 min. to an hour later, you got
a strip of wet negative.

>I do my own fast-and-sloppy B&W film development with
>usually-acceptable results, but find it an unpleasant chore compared
>with printing.  I'm wondering whether I could also do my own C41
>without really hating it.

   I don't do C41 anymore, but I do E-6.  Never actually try to do a
sloppy job, so I don't know.  But I know you will hate C41.  I even
hate E-6.  I just like having my slides lost in the mail less.

>Also, how much $$$ do I have to spend to get started?  I don't
>care much about the cost per roll for chemicals but wonder what
>I need besides my s/s tank and reels and and cheap thermometer.

   Unless you do tons of them, it's going to cost you more.
You need good temperature control.  You can alway fill your sink
with water that has the right temperature and bath the chemical
and your tank.  Or you can buy a 10 gallon fish tank with a
good (and I mean good) aquarium heater.

-Anthony
From: jay@metran.UUCP (Jay Ts)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Photographing people; need permission?
Date: 3 Jan 93 18:57:40 GMT
Organization: Metran Technology, Tampa, Florida

acs@csri.toronto.edu (Alvin Chia-Hua Shih) writes:
: In <346@metran.UUCP> jay@metran.UUCP (Jay Ts) writes:
: 
: What does one do in the case of a candid?  If one is trying to capture
: a "spontaneous" moment.  It's not feasible to ask in advance.

Right, so just take the picture!  If/when they see you, act nice.  If they
become offended, leave ;-).  Actually, if you can do something to calm them
down, i.e., "Hey, it's only a camera, ok?", that might help.

: How hard is it to get a model release from a stranger?

That depends...  Some people are more accepting than others.  Some of them
have even signed model releases before!

: Do you take their
: picture, then whip out a form for them to sign?  What kinds of reactions
: can one expect to get?

I keep reading that it is more wise to get the model release first, if
possible.  I guess that is supposed to help you keep from wasting film
if you *need* a release and they refuse.

I have had pretty good luck snapping a few pictures, then approaching them
with the *idea* of the release, that is, I explain that I would like to be
able to use photos of them for commercial use.  I ask, "Is it ok if I
photograph you?".  The answer is usually "OK".  Then I ask, "Is it alright
if I use the photographs commercially?".  Usually, they want to know
what that means, and I explain that it is to allow me to make money.  They
often want to have an idea of where the photos will appear, and I try to
give them some idea.  Then I explain that the model release doesn't give
away permission to use their image in a defamatory or degrading manner, and
all it really is is a piece of paperwork that shows others that I had
permission.  In other words, it is a written record that they said "OK, you
may photograph me and sell the pictures".

This has worked very well for me, but keep in mind that I have a habit of
only approaching people who seem like easygoing types.

Another thing to try is giving away free photos in return for signing the
release.  This is actually important, because it helps make the release
legal -- releases usually start of with something like "For valuable
consideration hereby acknowledged as received..."  That's because if it
should ever make it to court, the judge wants to see that the model received
something in return for their "work".  Otherwise, the agreement may be found
invalid.  So sending them a print of the best frame can be a really good
idea.  And it really does help them agree to sign the form if they feel
they are getting something out of it.
-- 
Jay Ts
uucp mail: uunet!myrddin!tscs!metran!jay
phone: (813) 979-9169
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Lithiums vs. alkalines (was Re: was going to get 8008s but EOS 10s recommended)
From: L.Chisholm@massey.ac.nz (Len Chisholm)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 92 01:15:13 GMT
Organization: Massey University, Palmerston North, New Zealand
Keywords: Battery 2CR5 Minolta Dynax Maxxum 8000i
Summary: Minolta claims 50 films * 24 exp for 2CR5 in Dynax/Maxxum 8000i
X-Reader: NETNEWS/PC Version 2c

The manual for the Minolta Dynax/Maxxum 8000i claims a battery life of
50 rolls of 24 exposures for a 2CR5 "based on Minolta's standard test
method using a fresh battery at 20 degrees C ( 68 F )".
There is a disclaimer about how you use the camera and how long
the battery has been on the shelf. The 8000i doesn't have an internal
flash or power zoom but is AF.

I can't give definitive figures , but I have shot at least 20 films
on the battery currently in the camera , at least ten of which were
36 exposure. This is in "normal" use , with pre-focussing and framing,
tests, etc. The camera is not yet giving the "low-battery" warning,
but the previous battery expired very rapidly ( no warning ).

-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
|  LEN CHISHOLM , Systems programmer  | EMail: L.Chisholm@massey.ac.nz  |
| Department of Production Technology | Phone: +64 6 3505262            |
|         Massey University           | FAX:   +64 6 3505604            |
|   Palmerston North, New Zealand     |                                 |
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: PXY@ECLX.PSU.EDU (Pen-Li Yen)
Subject: For Sale: Nikon 2020AF+35-70AF Nikkor $380 (NEW)
Organization: Penn State Engineering Computer Lab
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 92 07:15:58 GMT
X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.24

Nikon N2020 and 35-70 AF lens for sale:

1. N2020: Autofocus body, w/shutter speed 1-1/2000, bulb, Program,
	high speed program, dual program, shutter priority automatic,
	AE lock, AF lock, self timer, built-in motor drive for contiunous
	or single shot, DX mode, ASA 12-3200, continuous focus or
	lock focus.

2. 35-70 Autofocus lens f:3.3 Nikkor

1+2 sell for $380 + Shipping (COD or prepay)

Camera new in box, including original manuals and genuine Nikon case ($20 in 
	the market)

Yuesea (803)6548817

Thank you. 

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: phr@telebit.com (Paul Rubin)
Subject: Re: 8008s/801s Questions
Organization: Telebit Corporation; Sunnyvale, CA, USA
Date: 23 Dec 92 13:55:56

The 8008 doesn't have any nonvolatile memory.  If you left the
batteries out long enough for any internal capacitors to discharge
then put them back, that should have totally reset the camera.
If it still came up wedged, the batteries may have leaked some
crap onto the camera electronics and you need a serious repair :-(

When I do any important shooting, I take an FM2 along with my 8008.
That way, if one of them breaks, I still have the FM2...
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: krd2b@Virginia.EDU (Keith Raymond Donnelly)
Subject: Re: Canon 10s Vs Nikon N90, Which one?
Organization: University of Virginia
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 16:10:48 GMT

tse@ra.nrl.navy.mil  writes:
> In article <1992Dec18.031906.10270@cbnewsh.cb.att.com> kram@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (kameswar.r.ati) writes:
> >Canon 10s  - Body + 28-105USM lens =  $570-590
> >Nikon N90  - Body + 28-105  lens   =  $1100
> >
> >but then I do not mind spending the extra bucks if the N90 is
> >clearly superior in picture quality, len quality, overall
> >construction etc. Also am I comparing apples to oranges? 
> 
> 	What lens quality?  You are talking about a 28-105 zoom, you can
> pretty much chuck lens quality out the window.  To answer your question,
> unless you plan on spending $500 and up on a single lens, the quality of
> both Nikon & Canon lens are the same.  If you are willing to spend a few
> thousand dollars on lens, then Canon has a slight edge.  But then, if
> I were to spend a few thousand dollars on lens today, I wouldn't
> buy 35mm, I probably get a Hassy or RB.
> 
> -Anthony


I'm in a similar situation, being a semi-pro freelance
photographer and looking to update my equipment.  I've found
that while Canon bodies cost less than Nikons, their EF lenses
are in general more expensive than Nikon AF's in the market.
If you plan to invest in more than a couple of zoom lenses,
Nikon's lenses are cheaper, and there are more of them.
Furthermore, there are great deals to be had on Nikon non-AF
lenses, which can be used on their AF cameras unlike Canon,
whose EF and F mounts are incompatible.  From the professional
vantage point, Nikon support services are legendary, whereas
Canon's are just getting off the ground.  I'm personally
looking to re-equip with Nikon, either the 8008s or N90,
because I believe it will be cost-effective.  Functionally, I
like Nikon because their technical advances center around
metering systems, rather than Canon, who centers around
autofocus gimmicks.  I firmly believe that the critical aspect
of photography rests on correct exposure, whereas correct focus
is important, but manually as well as automatically accessable.

					-Keith R. Donnelly
					krd2b@pcmail.virginia.edu
From: elie@sensors.njit.edu (Elie I. Mourad)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: URGENT: ILFORD in T-MAX
Date: 31 Dec 92 13:27:02 GMT
Organization: New Jersey Institute of Technology, Newark, N.J.


I have a couple of rolls of Ilford FP4 (124ISO) that I need to develop.
Any one knows the time and temperature needed in T-MAX solution ?
Thanks, Elie.

PS: Send me mail.

--

                                 ________
________________________________/--------\______________________________________
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: acs@csri.toronto.edu (Alvin Chia-Hua Shih)
Subject: Re: Vivitar flash with EOS cameras
Keywords: vivitar canon eos compatibility
Date: 23 Dec 92 14:19:27 GMT

In <1992Dec22.222135.4357@news.mentorg.com> arora@arora.mentorg.com (Arora Amitabh @ PCB x3080) writes:

>Has anyone tries the Vivitar 2800 flash with the Canon EOS 630 and Elan
>cameras?  I already have such a flash and will wait to get the Canon flash
>untill I have sufficient money.

I can't admit any familiarity with that flash.

>Also, which will be the best substitute/compatible third party flash for the
>EOS cameras?  What do I give up by going with them ?

You can find a lot of this answered in the EOS FAQ.  It is available at
the rec.photo ftp site: moink.nmsu.edu.

>Your response will save me substancial amount of money.

Ummm.  See the FAQ first.

>Thanks in advance.

No problem.

>-Amitabh Arora

ACS
-- 
 ___ ___ ___ ______________________________________________________________
|   |   | __|      Democracy is not a way of getting better solutions.     |
| - | --|__ |           It's just a way to spread the blame.               |
|_|_|___|___|______________________________________________________________|
Alvin_C._Shih____________________acs@csri.utoronto.ca______________________|
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: daveb@Ingres.COM (Dave Brower, DBMS hack, [510] 748-3418)
Subject: Re: T mount adapters
Originator: daveb@lotus
In-reply-to: intolabb@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Steven Intolubbe)
Reply-To: daveb@lotus (Dave Brower, DBMS hack, [510] 748-3418)
Organization: Ingres, an ASK Company
Date: 29 Dec 92 18:49:02 GMT

In article <29045@oasys.dt.navy.mil>, intolabb@oasys (Steven Intolubbe) writes:
>
>    I have seen various T mount adapters for different bayonet
>mounts and I have seen a "universal" adapter that screws on to
>something.  What do "universal" T mount adapters adapt.
>
>				       Thanks,
>				       Steve

"Universal" means the old Pentax screw mount.  The "T" screw mount is
the same diameter, but a different pitch thread, so you mess things up
by trying to put one into the other w/o an adaptor.  A "universal" T
mount adaptor lets you put a T mount lens on an old Pentax.

The T mount system also assumes the thickness of the adaptor as part
of the design, so you can still focus at infinity.  Otherwise the
adaptor is a 14mm or so extension tube :-).




-- 
Windows/NT - the VMS of the 90s

From: barryg@hplsla.hp.com (Barry Gunn)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1992 16:23:33 GMT
Subject: Re: Celestial bodies and eclipses
Organization: HP Lake Stevens, WA
Newsgroups: rec.photo

>
>So what's good exposure for a lunar eclipse?
>
>(I was thinking of using a flash, is this a good idea? :-) :-) :-) :-)
>                      Smiley's for the humor-impaired   ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>--Mark
>----------
Sorry Mark, a flash would only fill in the shadow side of the eclipse,
making the moon look full again. By holding the flash out to your side 
at arms length, though, you can re-create the eclipse effect. But then it
would be un-ethical to call it an eclipse picture. ;-)
     _
    [o] Barry Gunn x2281
    /|\ barryg@lsid.hp.com
From: Harald.Brandt@eua.ericsson.se (Harald Brandt)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Canon 10s Vs Nikon N90, Which one?
Date: 29 Dec 92 14:54:53 GMT
Organization: Ellemtel Utvecklings AB, Sweden

In article <29042@oasys.dt.navy.mil> research@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Mike 
Leavitt) writes:
> My "Canon EOS EF Lenses" brochure describes an EF 20-35mm f/2.8L, with 
  an AFD
> (Arc Form Drive) actuator, 12 groups, 15 elements, aspherical lens, 
  inner/rear
> focus, 6 diaphragm blades, 0.5m minimum focusing distance, 79 cm long, 
  570 g
> mass.  No idea about the price, though.

I just would like to correct a mistake in all brochures I have seen 
(including Japanese): The 20-35 is about 79mm in diameter and about 82 
long (I can't say exact since I don't have the list here in my hand), but 
all the brochures have switched these figures. Price is about 1265 dollars 
in LA, 1000 dollar in NY mailorder excl tax, 800 pounds in the UK incl tax 
(York Cameras), 162 740 Yen in Tokyo (Yodobashi) excl 3%  tax, 8000 
HKdollars in HongKong (Photo Scientific), 11 350 kronor in Sweden incl tax 
(but list price is 12 300).

/Harald
From: limhl@hpsgm2.sgp.hp.com (Hui Lin LIM)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 00:48:40 GMT
Subject: Re: 8008s/801s Questions
Organization: HP Singapore Notes-Server
Newsgroups: rec.photo

I guess I should have added that when they returned the camera to me it
appeared to be working fine (it would advance and fire in all the
different modes) - hence my question about how they managed to do it so
quickly.  Before I took it to them I tried leaving the batteries out;
turning the camera on with various combinations of buttons pressed etc
but did not succeed in achieving anything.

However, the unfortunate saga continues....

Now the camera will only fire when in Manual and set at 1/250.  All
other settings will not work.  Even when it does fire the film does
not advance...  Trying to initiate film rewind does nothing; as does
multiple exposures...

Anyone with more suggestions?

(and to think that I sold my Pentax MX that served me reliably for 10+
yrs)

thanks

HuiLin
From: dcl@iago.caltech.edu (Darek Lis)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Canon 10s Vs Nikon N90, Which one?
Date: 29 Dec 1992 08:38 PDT
Organization: California Institute of Technology
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: iago.caltech.edu
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    

In article <BzzBo5.3r9@ra.nrl.navy.mil>, tse@ra.nrl.navy.mil (Anthony Tse) writes...
>Now what I want to know is, is it really a 24-35L or is it a 20-35L or
>are there actually 2 different lens?  I know Canon used to make a
>24-35L for the FD mount and I have seen ads for a 20-35L for FD and EF
>mount, but I don't think the FD 20-35L nor the EF 24-35L actually exist.
>
I've just looked at the review of wide angle lenses done by a Swedish photo
magazine which I got from Per Danielsson (thanks again!) and it includes 
only two wide angle zooms from Canon: EF 20-35/2.8L and FD 20-35/3.5L. 
I've never heard of the EF 24-35L or FD 24-35L.

Darek Lis
dcl@romeo.caltech.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: swanger@ducvax.auburn.edu
Subject: 49mm versus 52mm
Organization: Auburn University, AL
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 21:18:24 GMT

Pentax and Nikon use different diameters (widths?) for their 50mm lenses.  
Pentax uses 49mm, Nikon uses 52mm.  Does the width affect picture quality?
Is one better than the other, or does neither make any difference?

Just curious,
-- 
David Swanger,   Auburn University, Alabama,   swanger@accs.duc.auburn.edu
From: rsmith@pearl.tufts.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: 81A, 81B, & 82A filters: What are they for?
Date: 31 Dec 92 15:26:56 GMT
Organization: Tufts University - Medford, MA

I've got three filters that I got years ago.  They were originally lying around
with some unused equipment or something that my father found, so I don't know
what they're for.  One is an 82A (light bluish-green color), the others are
81A and 81B (brownish-yellow).  What are these things used for?  Thanks for
any information.
From: dannyb@panix.com (Daniel Burstein)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Fluorescent safelights (was: constructing small darkrooms)
Date: 3 Jan 93 20:55:51 GMT
Organization: Panix, NYC

the attached articles (after these comments) discuss flourescent lamps for
darkroom safelights...

my notes:  Once upon a time there was a safelight based on LOW pressure
sodium lighting.  The advantage of lp sodium is that it is monochromatic,
at (i think...) 590 nm wavelngth, or a solid orange.

You will -sometimes- see this type of lighting in use on streets or as
security lighting.  reason: it's quite a bit more energy efficient that
incandescant, flourescent, orthe more common hi-pressure sodium.

anyway.... when these were marketd for darkroom use, it worked out well. 
photo paper was pretty INsensitive to this wavelength, while human eyes
are very attuned to it.

I don't know if these are still available.  presumably, you could get a
lo-pressure sodium lamp (and fixture) from an electrical supply store anad
try it.  I -don't- know if and how today's photo papers would react.

oh, one more thing:  even though the main portion of the light was
generated by the sodium, and was monochromoatic orange, a bit of light was
also produced by the filaments at the ends of the tube (which needed to be
heated).  Since this lisght is standrad incandescent, it needed to be
either blocked (by a partial sleeve) or filtered.

-good luck
--------
earlier notes attached:

In <1992Dec30.071649.8027@netcom.com> bosak@netcom.com (Jon Bosak) writes:

>Jeff Gehlhaar (jbg@qualcom.qualcomm.com) writes:

>JG> I'm told nothing like this exists, but it would be handy
>JG> to have a florescent tube shaped safe-light.

>Regular photo stores (and most photographers) don't know this, but
>fluorescent safelights are quite common in process darkrooms -- the
>kind that photolithographers use -- and they are every bit as handy as
>you imagine them to be.  Get in touch with a graphic arts supply house
>(through the yellow pages in a city, or through your local job printer
>if you live in the country) and order a 48-inch ruby safelight sleeve.
>Get a standard single-tube 48-inch fluorescent shop fixture from your
>neighborhood discount hardware store, slip the ruby sleeve over the
>tube, and presto! you have what in my opinion is the best safelight
>you can get for a b&w darkroom.  It gives *lots* of light, it's
>completely safe for bromide paper, and it does double duty as a
>safelight for processing ortho film (which is, of course, what it was
>designed for).

>Just one caution -- DON'T load ordinary camera film into tanks or
>cartridges right after turning off the safelight.  Fluorescent tubes
>continue to glow faintly for several minutes after power is cut off.

>+----------------------------------------------------------------------+
> Jon Bosak  Sunnyvale, California : bosak@netcom.com  jb@sjb.novell.com
>+----------------------------------------------------------------------+
From: Jay.Mason@f100.n3609.z1.fidonet.org
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Edwal TG7
X-Sender: newtout 0.05 Dec 30 1992
Date: 28 Dec 92  21:58:00

    I am looking for any input from people who have used Edwal TG7 with
    Ilford  B&W films. And also if it is true that I can use the time
allotment for say tmax 100 for hp5 at iso 100 . Or were can i find out
 what the times should be?

                            Thank You
                               Jay
___
 X QMPro 1.0 41-1316 X Everyone has photographic memory, some don't have film!

--- Maximus 2.01wb
From: ai918@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeff Shafer)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Query: Books on Photo composition
Date: 22 Dec 1992 18:40:33 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: ai918@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeff Shafer)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc10.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, arif@ccrl.nj.nec.com (Arif Merchant) says:

>I would appreciate suggestions for *basic* books on photographic composition.
>More advanced books are also of interest, but I'm just starting out.
>If it makes a difference, I am talking about 35mm, color photography.
>Thanks!
>  Arif Merchant
>

I am interested in the same subject. I found _Image_ by Michael Freeman
at the library.

  TR145.F658  1987  770  87-1130
  ISBN 0-8174-4013-5(pbk.)

I just started reading it, so far it looks good.

-- 
Jeff Shafer
ai918@cleveland.Freenet.Edu