HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: sontakke@helix.enet.dec.com (Vikas Sontakke)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: temperature gage and fuel gage problem
Date: 7 Apr 92 17:48:14 GMT
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation


In article <1992Apr7.130034.2709@usenet.ins.cwru.edu>, bi927@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Yi Jin) writes...
> 
>This morning. My 83 Honda Accord had some problem with the fuel gage and 
>temperature gage. After 5 minutes driving, both the temperature gage and
>fuel gage went full, I.E, the gages indicated that temperature was overheated
>and fuel was full, although the fuel tank was near empty. However, safter 
>several turn-off turn-on tries, the gage seems normal now. What that 
>problem could be? Is that only the gage problem, or there are something 
>wrong with the system.?
> 
>The coolant was full and the thermostat was changed last year. What else
>should I check.
> 
>Thanks for help.

Bang on the left underside of the dash.  I believe it is the instrument voltage
regulator that is flakey.  When it happened on my then new 83 Prelude while
driving, I was freaked out but then realized that engine was not really melting. 
The same thing has happened about 3/4 times every year.  If you notice you will
see that the hazard light indicator starts flashing, albeit very dimly, on its
own.  If the bang on the left does not cure it, hit it on the right.  I never
really got around to finding where exactly is that regulator.  For all I know,
it might be burried deep inside.

Why is it that almost all Hondas that I know of exhibit peculiar but similar
problems as they cross 100K marks?  Anyone want to swap a list of
idiosyncracies?

Vikas Sontakke		Digital Equipment Corporation, Maynard MA.
Internet:		sontakke@helix.enet.dec.com
    uucp:		{decvax,ucbvax,allegra}!decwrl!helix.enet!sontakke
			sontakke%helix.enet@decwrl.dec.com
From: afoldej@lims02.lerc.nasa.gov (JOHN OLDENBURG)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Dunlop Qualifier GTs
Date: 7 Apr 92 13:25:00 GMT
Article-I.D.: lims02.7APR199208251524
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <fragante.702580710@chilko.ucs.ubc.ca>, fragante@unixg.ubc.ca (Gv Fragante) writes...
>Can anyone comment on the Dunlop Qualifier GTs ? I am looking for a low-profile
>all-season tire that is not too $$$ (205/50/15). The D60 A2 does not come in
>this size (as far as I have checked). What other brands have equivalent
>characteristics to the Qualifiers ?

I put a set of Dunlop Qualifier HR4s on my 89 Accord LXi when the MXVs
needed to be replaced.  The HR4s have a the same tread as the GTs but are a 
higher speed rating and do not have the white letters.  The Qualifiers are 
much better in the snow then the MXVs that came on the Honda.  I have 
put about 25K miles on the tires so far and I been happy with them so far.  

One note: A friend of mine put them on a 85 Maxima and did not rotate the 
tires on a regular basis.  This resulted in angled wear on the tread blocks 
on both front tires resulting in a large increase in tire noise.

JRO
From: gwu@nujoizey.tcs.com (George Wu)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: problem with engine oil change
Date: 7 Apr 92 18:38:38 GMT
Article-I.D.: tcsi.1992Apr7.183838.18235
Organization: Teknekron Communications Systems Inc.
Cc: chifang@sybil.cs.Buffalo.EDU (chi fang)

In article <1992Apr2.014828.19025@acsu.buffalo.edu>, chifang@sybil.cs.Buffalo.EDU (chi fang) writes:
> I changed the engine oil and the oil filter less than 3 monthes ago, but
> yesterday I found that the oil is very dirty again. I remember I choose
> the right filter last time, and I didn't drive a lot during these past 3
> monthes, could you more experienced people tell me what might be the reason?

     Engine oil normally turns black quite quickly, long before it needs to
be changed.  Just because it's black doesn't mean it needs to be changed.

     On the other hand, the normal recommendation for oil change intervals
is 3000 miles or three months, WHICHEVER COMES FIRST.  The latter condition
is for those people who do alot of stop and go driving.

> Is it indicating something wrong with the engine? The car does show problems
> recently when trying to start and then drive in rainy weather, it shakes 
> a lot.

     Sounds like you're knocking.  I'd recommend a tuneup.

							George
From: greenfie@vtserf.cc.vt.edu (Steve Greenfield)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Carburetor Cleanup
Date: 10 Apr 92 19:08:04 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Virginia Tech, Blacksburg, VA

When I rebuild my carburetor what should I use to clean the parts?  Do I
need to make some kinda dipping tank and let the housing and other pieces
soak for a long time or can I just use some kinda cleaner, rag and elbow
grease?
 
Thanks!
 
- feats@vtvm1.cc.vt.edu  (internet)
  feats@vtvm1            (bitnet)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: tynor@hydra.gatech.edu (STEVE TYNOR)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.driving
Subject: Re: Rolling a car, general questions
Date: 13 Apr 92 22:00:38 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Organization: Georgia Tech Research Institute
In-reply-to: rlatham@fwhnm1d.fwrdc.rtsg.mot.com's message of 13 Apr 92 19:59:28 GMT

In article <1992Apr13.195928.12344@fwhnm02.fwrdc.rtsg.mot.com> rlatham@fwhnm1d.fwrdc.rtsg.mot.com (Max Headroom) writes:

| I have a few questions about rolling a car.  Is it possible
| to tell at what point a car will start sliding when going 
| around a corner, before it happens?
| And what is the possibility of rolling a car in a corner?
| What do I need to watch for in order NOT TO ?
| Any advice as to how to tell the limit of a curve, like
| how much over the posted speed is generally safe?

No.

| I'm driving a '92 Honda Prelude 'S' Model (base model), 
| and every time I go around a corner (on the highway,
| i.e. highway interchanges, when there are no other
| cars around) I've been increasing the speed, and
| should probably learn what to watch out for.  ;-)

I sincerely hope this is a joke. 

The public highways are the wrong place to experiment with the limits of
your car. I strongly suggest that you enrole in a high performance or
autocross (called gymkana in some parts of the country) school.  Check
with your local BMW club (I know you drive a Honda, but they'll often
accept non-BMWs) for event schedules. Other possibilities: SCCA, Porsche
Club, Miata Club, Corvette Club. These schools are rarely very expensive
(~$100 - 200) and the training is invaluable. The schools are held in
controlled conditions (on closed race tracks, or in the case of
autocrosses, in large parking lots). You'll learn to control slides,
detect imminent spins, learn to threshold brake, etc. Hopefully you'll
learn a little about vehicle dynamics (weight transfer) and the
importance of smoothness. Car control is not something that someone can
explain to you: you must get instruction in a car from an experienced
driver.

If you don't know what you're doing, the chances are _very_ high that
you will repeat the experience of your friend in the TransAm.  Losing
control of your car at high speed can be very dangerous! You may not be
as lucky next time.

To reiterate: don't be an idiot on the public highways. 

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Porsche: There is no substitute.
                     
    Steve Tynor
    Georgia Tech Research Institute
    tynor@prism.gatech.edu
From: stecz@hotwheel.Eng.Sun.COM (John Steczkowski [CONTRACTOR])
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: headlamp bulbs
Date: 13 Apr 92 21:44:55 GMT
Reply-To: stecz@hotwheel.Eng.Sun.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
NNTP-Posting-Host: hotwheel

Does anyone know of a source for higher wattage headlamp bulbs.  Not H4's but the
bulb in most composite/flush mount/europeam style headlights?  I think they are
called 9092s or something.  I want to replace the bulbs in my headlights with ones
with higher powered high beams.  I know where I can get the relays, etc, to make
it work, but I can't find the bulbs.

---
  John Steczkowski                            stecz@pencom.com
        65mph: it's not a good idea, it just the law.
From: koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: GM's HiCube front-drives of yesteryear WAS: Re: HKS Turbo Kits
Date: 8 Apr 92 18:03:43 GMT
Article-I.D.: nosc.5321
Organization: Naval Ocean Systems Center, San Diego

In article <92099.130358KXN2@psuvm.psu.edu> KXN2@psuvm.psu.edu (Karl Nordstrom) writes:
>koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz) says:

>>recalling 500cid Eldorados and 455cid Toronados...  i don't buy any such
>>accusation of 200hp being a limit for front-drive...

>What transaxils where used in those autos?  Are they used in any other
>cars?

automatic, threespeed, turbohydramatic...  i do not have the exact model
designation handy.  the engine was mounted longitudinally, above the transaxle
and a 'link-belt' ran between engine output and trans input.  these were
interesting machines...

walt k.
From: gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca (Andy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: TRIPLE EDGE WIPER QUESTION
Keywords: HELP
Date: 9 Apr 92 13:25:36 GMT
Distribution: dal
Organization: Math, Stats & CS, Dalhousie University, Halifax, NS, Canada

In <1992Apr8.220232.24299@ncsu.edu> aadada@eos.ncsu.edu (ALEEM ABDUL DADA) writes:

>DEAR FRIENDS, 

>           AS I WAS WALKING ALONG THE AISLES OF THE LOCAL PEP BOYS YESTERDAY,
>I NOTICED A DISPLAY FOR "TRIPLE EDGE WIPERS".  THE AD CLAIMED THAT THE WIPERS
>WOULD NEVER GO BAD AND DO A BETTER JOB OF WIPING.  I FOUND THE PRICE OF $15 
>PRETTY STEEP FOR WIPERS.  MY QUESTION IS, IS THERE ANYONE OUT THERE WHO HAS
>TRIED A PAIR AND IS IT REALLY WORTH THE MONEY?

>  	    THANKS IN ADVANCE.

Well, I got this thing for them in the mail and I got them. 
1) They claim that they will never freeze to the windshield - FALSE
2) Don't know about them in snowy conditions, got them too late
3) They do a good job in the rain, they don't smear (so far) unlike many
other wipers that I tried. This alone is worth $15 for me.

Good luck
Andy
-- 
---....-------------****----*******-) GTI FUN-atic                      o  
--. \/ .-----GTI---******--*********)         Don't forget to bike:     ,-\
--.\/\/.-----------******--*********)  (and sail and windsurf and ski)  0\-0
---....-------------****----*******-) gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca,goaway@ac.dal.ca
From: Steve.Kaess@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Steve Kaess)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: New Automobile
Date: Tue, 07 Apr 1992 17:01:59 -0500

 > I am considering the purchase of a new automobile.  To make
 > sure that I
 > get a very good deal I want to do some research.  Before
 > I go in to
 > negotiate a deal I want to be equipped with as much information
 > as
 > possible.  I have heard of people finding out what the
 > dealer pays for
!) You can find out what the dealer pays, but not always the incentives  
that the manufacturer has.  read automotive news for this info
2)You should look at the taurus in addition to the camry.  It is 
a better car, and will cost you less in the long run due to better 
engineering which allows less service and lower labor rates.  I also 
highly recomend the saturn cars.
#) take a trip to the dc area for a better deal--I got my dad a 91  
taurus loaded for 14750 at ourisman in bethesda.  sticker was 19800...
ourisman was great too...no hasstle at all!!! very refreshing.  


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: stiegg@aix02.ecs.rpi.edu (Gregory Mark Stiegler)
Subject: Re: Turbocharger VS. Supercharger.
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 17:20:19 GMT

koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz) writes:

>well, quick vocabulary reminder...  any device which forces an engine to intake
>more air than it would under ambient atmospheric pressure alone is correctly
>referred to as 'supercharger'; regardless of drive mechanism.  a 'turbocharger'
>is correctly refered to as 'turbine-driven supercharger' and a roots blower
>(like a GMC 6-71 type) is correctly identified as a 'mechanically-driven
>supercharger'.  a single-speed driven, mechanically-driven, positive
>displacement supercharger (GMC 6-71) suffers from a couple problems it does not
>compensate for high altitude effects -- a turbine-driven centrifugal
>supercharger (turbocharger) will rotate more rapidly in the less-dense air at
>altitude and maintain closer to sea-level performance than is posible
>otherwise.  this is one tremendous advantage of turbine vs. mechanical drive.


>hmmm, somewhere i got the impression that rotary engines are picky about
>exhaust backpressure; if this is the case, then a mechanically-driven,
>variable-speed-drive centrifugal supercharger might be just what you need.
>this would solve the shortcomings of the positive-displacement, single speed
>supercharger and the (much of) the lag problem of the turbine driven...

>i *think* Paxton' makes/made such a device (late 1950's Studebakers had this
>type supercharger/drive).

>walt k.

And I suppose you refer to detonation as Thermal Preignition of Combustables
many of us here don't want a college symposium here...there is a differnce,
most of us are practical, not theoretical.

   Greg

-- 
===========================================================================
  "Bureaucracy is a challenge to be conquered with a righteous attitude,
     a tolerance for stupidity, and a bulldozer when necessary"
                  -- Peter's Laws
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: floyd@eng.umd.edu (Mike Hughes)
Subject: Re: Gas vs propane
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 92 00:26:52 GMT
Organization: University of Maryland

In article <1992Apr13.125146.5510@fmsrl7.srl.ford.com> tgl@slee01.srl.ford.com (Tom Leone) writes:
>bmahler@javelin.sim.es.com (Brian Mahler) writes:
>: What are the pro's and con's of propane verses gasoline.
>: 
>: 	Is you miles per gal increased?
>: 	Is the life of the engin increased?
>: 	Is it cheaper?
>: 	What are the draw backs?
>: 
>: If it matters, the vehicle I'm considering converting is a 
>: '90 Ford Club Wagon, 1 ton, 351 fuel enjected,
>
 [stuff deleted]
>
>Theoretically, engine durability should not be affected either
>way, but any conversion will not be as thoroughly tested as the
>original design.
>
>Tom Leone <tgl@slee01.srl.ford.com>

	Actually, engine wear should decrease.  Specifically at the cylinder
walls.  In a gasoline fueled engine, the fuel is sucked into the cylinder and
some deposits on the cylinder walls.  This fuel dilutes the oil film, causing
lack of lubrication at the upper/most vunerable area of the cylinder.  This
is usually called 'wall washing' or something, and gets worse as the mixture
gets richer.  A gaseous fuel doesn't dilute the oil film, thus less wear 
occurs.  Also, the oil in the crankcase will see fewer acids. -Mike

:Suicidal Tendencies=====> He's a carrier of death a stork in reverse,        :
: =8^) Mike Hughes  =8^( : he blesses you with sickness cause love is a curse.:
:Mail---floyd@eng.umd.edu: The arsenic in your Koolaid, the bomb in your mail,:
:Voice--(301) 340-0922   : he disappears in motion but leaves a bloody trail. :
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:5953 rec.autos.driving:2513
From: jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.driving
Subject: Re: Photo-Radar in New Jersey - Call your representatives TODAY!!!
Date: 17 Apr 92 20:08:01 GMT
Article-I.D.: dixie.a=2jasf
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.

whs70@dancer.uucp (24411-sohl) writes:

>The state police have made their big announcement about the beginning
>of PhotoRadar being used in NJ.  It is still only issueing warnings,
>BUT they say (several newspapers have carried front page stories
>yesterday and today) they will start issuing actual tickets in several
>weeks.

You know, I've finally realized the real reason behind SDI.  The
patriots in the military want those big lasers so they can carve off 
California and the new york, new jersey, washington axis and let 'em float 
off into the oceans.  Then the country can resume being America
again.

So when you're writing about photo-radar, be sure to support SDI too.

John
-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC        | What's the difference between Jane Fonda
Rapid Deployment System, Inc. | and Bill Clinton?  Hanoi Jane went to 
Marietta, Ga                  | Viet Nam.              
jgd@dixie.com                 | Need public access in Atl?  Write me.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bill@hood.tsg.tandem.com (Bill Norcott)
Subject: Re: Rust Removal
Reply-To: norcott_bill@tandem.com  (Bill Norcott)
Organization: Tandem Computers, Inc.
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 18:58:38 GMT

In article <1992Apr13.021437.24239@porthos.cc.bellcore.com>, jemcd@dasher.uucp (25634-mc devitt) writes:
|> Hi,
|> 
|> I don't know if this has been discussed before since I don't
|> usually read this newsgroup. But... I'm buying a steel trailer
|> and all the places where the metal is welded together have
|> rusted.  What is the best way to remove this rust and prepare
|> it for touch-up painting?  I'd like to avoid a total repaint.
|> 
|> Any suggestions would be appreciated.
|
There is a product called "Rust Eater" made by Permatex, which I have found to work
well.  First you take off the really loose surface rust with a wire brush, then brush on
the Rust Eater.  It goes on kind of greenish white, then turns black as it dries.  It has a
chemical which neutralizes the rust, then dries to a black primer.  You can paint right
over it.

There is also stuff called Naval Jelly which just removes the rust down to bare metal.
With this you have to paint on regular primer before the touch-up paint.

---------------------------------------------------------------------|
Bill Norcott			GUARDIAN POSIX project
Tandem Computers, Inc.		
10600 N. Tantau Avenue		PHONE:  (408) 285-3253
Cupertino, CA   95014		EMAIL: norcott_bill@tandem.com
From: jbr1@Ra.MsState.Edu (Jarryl B. Ritchie)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: rolling a car
Date: 6 Apr 92 04:48:55 GMT
Article-I.D.: Ra.jbr1.702535735
Organization: Mississippi State University

I had a Toyota roll on me while dodging deer one night.  I got onto loose
shoulder and the rear end came around to about 75 to 80 deg from straight
normal driving.  The rear tire pulled back from the rim and the rim edge
dug into the road and snapped the car onto its roof.  I mean snapped.  The
driver side mirror and sheet metal was unscathed.  It went from tires to
roof without touching anything else (of course all of that got screwed when 
we rolled to car back over...)

I don't know if this is like the situation that you describe.  I believe the
soft shoulder allowed the car to come around farther that it might have other
wise.

That's my story.  It was somewhat bizarre.  I can still hear the Bangles singing
"Walk like and Egyptian"  It sounds the same when you are hanging in your belt.
ha ha

jay.
From: wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1992 15:10:57 GMT
Subject: Re: Engine Temp Quickly "Surges" Up & Down
Organization: Hewlett Packard - Boise, ID
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

Sounds like the electrical connection to the sending unit went away and came
back.  Next time it does this, open the hood quick (be sure to pull over and 
stop first :-) ) and see if the engine seems overly hot or at temperature.
It could be a thermostat, sending unit problem, or gage problem as well.  My
first guess is a loose connection...

Wes Fujii

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Wes Fujii               *           JAPANESE BUSINESS MOTTO           *
* Boise, Idaho            *        You can buy anything you want        *
* wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com *             with a lot of money             *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: RE: MUSTANG V6 PINGS
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 14 Apr 92 16:50:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * Jacksonville AR USA * 501-985-0059

-> I have heard people recommend spraying water down the carb while
-> goosing the throttle to "wash away" the carbon.  Never tried it
-> myself.  If you are mechanically inclined, it's not too
-> horribly difficult to remove and clean the heads.

 My brother blew a head gasket on my D/MOD Capri last April.  He was
coming down the back straight and there was a gout of white smoke.  He
pulled into the pit area and we towed the car home.

 When I pulled the head, #4 piston was absolutely squeaky shiny clean,
as was the chamber and exhaust port.  The other pistons had the usual
black crud buildup.   This was from no more than a few seconds of
water/antifreeze mix.

 Shooting some water down the intake with a spray bottle shouldn't hurt
things.  If someone wanted to make a scientific test they could shoot it
down one venturi only, then compare that cylinder(s) with the others.

 For something like this, a borescope would beat actually pulling the
engine down.   Hmm...  I've seen motorcycle mechanics use borescopes,
but I've never seen one for sale.  Anyone know where I can buy a
borescope?
                                                 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: floyd@eng.umd.edu (Mike Hughes)
Subject: Re: What's up with my brakes?
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 92 16:24:06 GMT
Organization: University of Maryland
Distribution: usa

In article <sltb8INNcne@agate.berkeley.edu> avk@hafnium.cchem.berkeley.edu (Tony Konashenok) writes:
>
> In my '79 T-bird, the brakes exhibit a strange symptom. It
>looks like air in the system (spongy pedal, warning light on)
>but happens only once or twice on the 3rd-5th minute of ride.
>A few hours of parking restore the initial condition (the 
>trouble happens again after 3-5 min). What is my problem?
>
	Hey! How 'bout boilin' brake fluid?  I've never experienced it, but I
would imagine that the symptoms are discribed above.  I'd suggest 'ya flush out
that old fluid (with DRY compressed air!) and replace it. Good luck...-Mike

:Suicidal Tendencies=====> He's a carrier of death a stork in reverse,        :
: =8^) Mike Hughes  =8^( : he blesses you with sickness cause love is a curse.:
:Mail---floyd@eng.umd.edu: The arsenic in your Koolaid, the bomb in your mail,:
:Voice--(301) 340-0922   : he disappears in motion but leaves a bloody trail. :
From: jslee@nrtc.nrtc.northrop.com (John Lee <jslee>)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: AC/Delco Filter Fun facts
Date: 9 Apr 92 03:19:09 GMT
Reply-To: jslee@nrtc.nrtc.northrop.com (John Lee <jslee>)
Distribution: na

I found the following fun facts poking through AC/Delco manuals:

Oil Filters:
	MANUAL STATES USE	USE INSTEAD	WHY
1		PF40		PF47		PF47 has anti-drainback valve
2		PF51		PF52		PF52	"	"	"
3		PF47		PF52		more filter area
4		PF25		PF35		more filter area

Lines 3 & 4:	Use the larger filter if clearances allow, so that there
		is more media cleaning your oil.

Air Filters:
	I always buy ACs because I feel that they have more filtering
square inches. This I conclude by feeling the WEIGHT of a AC filter
and the WEIGHT of a aftermarket (Lee, Fram, Purolator). What else could
the heavier filter be unless it was more accordion paper?

This is not an all-inclusive list, and you must use this info at your
own risk.  I've personally made the oil filter substitutions listed
for the past many years with zero ill effects.  I've only seen them
documented recently.  


JSLee
From: carlos@athertn.Atherton.COM (Carlos Chang)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Jeepster parts
Date: 7 Apr 92 20:15:43 GMT
Organization: Atherton Technology, Sunnyvale, CA



Hi,

I'm looking for Jeepster body parts.  Specifically the front left fender
(it's always the front left fender!) for a 72 Jeepster Commando.  Also 
wanted is the exhaust manifold for the 232 motor.  I'm also considering
switching over to the 71 Jeepster front end body look; if I can find all
the parts at a reasonable price.  I do believe the parts from a 71 should
fit the 72.  Oh yeah, a soft top too..and a bikini top as well.. also
a tire rack....

	Carlos
	carlos@atherton.com 
From: wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1992 14:12:01 GMT
Subject: Re: Stupid Headlight question
Organization: Hewlett Packard - Boise, ID