HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: brunette@netcom.com (Hal Brunette)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc,sci.electronics
Subject: Re: How to dispose of NiCads?
Date: 27 Jul 92 20:40:01 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest)

In article <1992Jul27.161240.4905@nynexst.com> rsilvers@powwow.nynexst.com (Rob Silvers) writes:
>
>
>	I have a bunch of NiCad cells that I no longer want.  Should I just
>throw them away?  Is there an established place to bring them?  
>
>--Rob.
>
>

If you don't want them because they're dead, you might be able to restore them.
Read:

Myers, D. C., "Zap New Life into Dead Ni-Cd Batteries," Popular Electronics,
July 1977, pp. 60-61.

The article explains internal shorts and how to clear them.

If, however, you just don't want to deal with them, let me know and I'll
pay the shipping to take them off your hands.

Hal
From: hatke@phoenix.Princeton.EDU (Gary F. Hatke)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: replacement for Super Kaos 40
Date: 31 Jul 92 14:02:53 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Princeton University
Originator: news@ernie.Princeton.EDU

Hi folks, I need some advice.

For the past five years, I had been flying a Great Planes Super Kaos 40.
I say had, because recently someone at my flying club failed to look at
the frequency board before he turned on his transmitter. 5 year old
planes re-kit themselves quite quickly when they lose guidance during a
Cuban 8. Anyway, the guy who caused me to plant my plane offered to get
me a new kit, although he really doesn't have a lot of money. If this
had happened a few years ago, I would have just gotten another Super
Kaos. But alas and alack, Great Planes, in their infinite wisdom, has
decided to discontinue that kit. Thus, my dilemma. I really liked the
way the old Super Kaos flew, and I have a few .40 size engines lying
around. Can any of you folks suggest a plane which has the following
characteristics:

--- Pattern-like performance (smooth manouvers, not jerky like contest
    fun ply ships)
--- .40 size engine (I would like to re-use some of my present engines)
--- Fairly simple to build (I live in an apartment with limited space,
    and I don't have a lot of time to build)
--- Not much more than $100 for the kit (the guy buying the plane can't
    afford much more)

Any suggestions would be welcome, reply either to the net, or by e-mail.

Thanks in advance.


Gary F. Hatke
MIT Lincoln Laboratory
hatke@ll.mit.edu
From: wd6cmu@netcom.com (Eric Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: filler materials, striping monocoat
Date: 23 Jul 92 01:05:10 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest)

plb@dcdwest.uucp (Phil Blais) writes:
> Because monokote gases when heated the idea is to give the gas time and
> room to escape as you go. It takes a bit of practice to get right but
> it does work. Also experiment with your iron's heat setting. The correct
> setting is when the adhesive activates but shrikage does not occur.

There is a product called "No Heat" from L&M Industries that is a liquid
you apply to Monokote to turn it into a contact adhesive for just this
purpose.  I haven't used it myself, though.
-- 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Eric Williams     wd6cmu@netcom.com  |  Never attribute to malice that which
WD6CMU@WD6CMU.#NOCAL.CA.USA.NA       |  is adequately explained by stupidity.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Vintage Stunt Championships
Date: 27 Jul 92 17:31:17 GMT
Organization: Indiana University


Hi all

Did anyone else notice our own Cowboy Larry's picture in
the latest Flying Models? He's holding his Roadrunner. Lyman
Lew also got mentioned in the same article but didn't get 
a picture. Hmmmm....maybe I ought to build something and 
make next years'? It is one heckuva drive though...



-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Iskandar Taib                          | The only thing worse than Peach ala
Internet: NTAIB@SILVER.UCS.INDIANA.EDU |    Frog is Frog ala Peach
Bitnet:   NTAIB@IUBACS                 !
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: fsjinho@pike.lerc.nasa.gov (Jinho Lee)
Subject: Re: Starting RC Helicopters
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center [Cleveland, Ohio]
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 13:42:53 GMT

In article <92207.215404BTM105@psuvm.psu.edu> <BTM105@psuvm.psu.edu> writes:
>I have about 2 or so years of airplane   experience from when I was in the Army
> and am planning on buying a helicopter when I graduate from college.  There ar
>e 2 models I have in mind, the Concept 30 or the Shuttle.  I would appreciate i
>f anyone could offer me any input or suggestions on either of these 2 machines
>or advise about helicopters in general.  I am also curios about electric-powere
>d machines.            Thank You for Your Time
>                           Brian Micek
>                           Penn State University; PA, USA

	The starting system for the stock shuttle is a belt and the concept 
is a cone.  Either systems have advantages and disadvanteges.  However, I
personally feel that shuttle is a better flying machine with more for all
around flying potential.  I believe this because of the independent flapping
head on the concept which is very soft and tend to flap around a lot in 
flight.  This macke the machine fly very very smooth but it also increases
the danger of the blade coming in contact with the tail boom.  Anyways, the
new shuttle with single floating axis more durable eventhough you'll giveup 
a little in static stability.  
	As far as electric helos are concerned.  They are very good SECOND
helicopter.  

					Jinho





-- 

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jinho Lee			|     phone: 216-433-4000
NASA Lewis Research Center     	|    
Cleveland, Ohio  44135         	|     email: fsjinho@pike.lerc.nasa.gov 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: robertw@informix.com (Robert Weinberg)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Crystals AM & FM: Factory Adjustment???
Date: 23 Jul 92 22:27:24 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

Here's another question you R/C gurus can answer while we are on this thread.

My Futaba radio kit literature (Attack 4-channel AM) says I can buy another set  
of crystals, but I'd better send the set back to Futaba for them to adjust the  
crystals. True? Why?

--
+==============================+===============================+
|       Rob Weinberg           | Workstation publications tech |
| Email : robertw@informix.com |       Graphic designer        |
| Voice : 415-926-6754         |    <imagine your ad here>     |
+==============================+===============================+
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: jlw@world.std.com (James L Walker)
Subject: Noise elimination for embedded aileron servos
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 19:11:47 GMT

I recently installed microservos in the wingtips of my .40 size sport
plane.  I ran some long aileron extension cables to them through the
ribs of the wing.  They seem to work okay except that I have noticed
that they humm alot and jiggle as though the transmitter were turned
off and they were recieving interference.  The radio is PCM with
failsafe so I doubt that radio interference is the problem.  I rather
suspect that the long wires in each wing are weakening the signal from
the reciever and are acting as antennae of their own.  Does anyone
know of an inexpensive circuit that will eliminate this noise?

-- Les Walker
From: trljim@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (JIM SONNENMEIER)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: 10 Cell F3E anyone?
Date: 24 Jul 92 17:11:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <1992Jul24.141923.29627@gdunix.gd.chalmers.se>, 
co@bildsun1.mednet.gu.se (Christer Olsson) writes...
>Does the engine 520 watts with only 10 cells? Many engines works much better 
>with 14 cells. My friend has a 750W Astro 40 and it works much better with 
>14 cells than 10 or 12 cells. 
> 
>He has tested the engine and the difference between 10 and 14 cells was 
>great! The engine gives 650 watts with 14 cells but only 350 watts with 10 
>cells. 
> 
>Maybe the results should be differ if he has tested the most optional prop 
>for 10 and 14 cells, now he only tested with same prop.


The test was valid, to find the max power you should change props as well.
Just one more thing.  They are *motors* not *engines*
                                        ^^^^^^^^^^^^

sorry to pick a nit but it was hard to read the way you wrote it :)

Jim
From: seanm@terapin.com (Sean McCaskey)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Crystals AM & FM: Factory Adjustment???
Date: 27 Jul 92 09:32:01 PST
Organization: BBS


  Re: crystal changes and Futaba

  I think one of the main reasons they want you to send it back to them is that
this is something only a registered Tech (ham type) can legally do it.  There
may also be some minor tuning of the antenna SWR or something also.

---Sean---
From: U54136@uicvm.uic.edu
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: RC Plane Plans, Postscript, ftp site
Date: 31 Jul 92 04:28:43 GMT
Organization: University of Illinois at Chicago

Is there an ftp site for postscripted rc plane plans?

-Tim
From: billg@hpspdla.spd.HP.COM (Bill Gingras)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 14:51:16 GMT
Subject: Re: filler materials, striping monocoat
Organization: HP Stanford Park - Palo Alto, CA
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc


i
As far as striping goes, you can cut and overlay monokote, but you have
to pierce it often to let air escape.  I've seen it done, but it looks
like a pain in the butt.

Hobby stores also sell peel-and-stick adhesive backed monokote as well
as peel-and-stick pin striping in various colors, widths, etc.  I'd
think auto pin striping would work as well, but it might not be fuel
proof.

- Bill G
From: jrp@bohra.cpg.oz.au (John Pitman)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: air rectracts
Date: 28 Jul 92 05:42:36 GMT
Organization: Computer Power Software

Hi there
just a few lines on my experiences with air retracts.
they are more flexible in mounting because you can route the air lines easily.
If you have trouble getting air tubing, I have used 1/16th id plastic tubing
used by upholsterers to make piping - the round edging material on chairs, 
stools etc $19 for 500 metres! the only servo work to do is to set up the valve
operating one so it is not loaded at either end of its travel. I have made my own air bottles out of hair and deodorant bottles with small bore copper/brass
tubes epoxied in the ends. solder a piece of small bore tube into the end of
a car tube valve for pressurizing - use a foot operated tyre pump to fill - I
usually get 80-100psi in quite quickly. some people like rhom etc make connector
s to go from pressure bottle in fuse to lines in wing. the trick with making the
cylinders leak proof is to use proper hydraulic cups or rings to seal them, not
just 'O' rings. with big heavy birds, it can pay to mount the retract softly, ie
on a fibre-glass and/or carbon fibre on a fibre-glass and/or carbon fibre 
expoxied plate, screwed down at its corners, but able to flex with big loads
instead of ripping the retract screws out, or pulling the wood out of the foam!
jp
From: earl@trsvax.tandy.com
Date: 24 Jul 92 14:25 CDT
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Indoor R/C
Message-ID: <5000011@trsvax>
From: csroach@eng.clemson.edu (Shane Roach)
Subject: Re: Crystals AM & FM: Factory Adjustment???
Organization: Clemson University
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 17:09:51 GMT

From article <1992Jul24.112417.13418@lmpsbbs.comm.mot.com>, by bobwo@ecs.comm.mot.com (Bob Woodhouse):
>>My Futaba radio kit literature (Attack 4-channel AM) says I can buy another set  
>>of crystals, but I'd better send the set back to Futaba for them to adjust the  
>>crystals. True? Why?
>>
> My Magnum Sport instructions said the same thing.  Well, it's not quite
> the case that they would actually adjust the crystals;  perhaps they
> are implying that the would tune some circuitry or something.  At any
> rate, the common and effective practice of just pulling out crystal#1
> and substituting crystal#2 seems to have given nary a problem to me
> and to any racers who find that they need to use an alternate frequency
> in an A-main due to conflict with another racer.  In short, I personally
> would disregard this particular Futabian instruction.
> 
> Stay tuned,
> Bob Woodhouse
> 
> 
The instructions with both my Magnum Sport and Magunm Junior say something to
that effect, but what really got me was that it mentioned sending the whole
set back to them in case you broke the antenna or did something else that may
require you to replace the receiver module, so they can "tune it for optimum
reception" or some such stuff.  Anyway, one day about a year ago I was out
thrashing my Kyosho Ferrari 640/2(Hey, Ferrari never called it an F189!) in 
the bus parking lot at the local high school when the car ran over something,
spun, and went under my car(the one that carries me about) backwards.  This 
managed to sever the receiver antenna about 2 inches out of the receiver case.
I said "Damn, borke the f*@&ing antenna."  I didn't really want to send my 
radio to Futaba(especially since it was the only one I had at that time) or 
drive thirty miles to the hobby shop, so I went home and soldered the antenna
back together.  After that, the radio glitches about 90% less, and the range
is about 20 yards longer.  Go figure.

Shane Roach 
csroach@eng.clemson.edu



Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib)
Subject: Re: filler materials, striping monocoat
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 15:02:56 GMT

>In article <1992Jul21.162352.27383@adp.uucp> kevinc@adp.uucp (Kevin Cherek) writes:

>>Hi,

>>I'm finishing a Sig Senior (my first plane).  I plan to cover with
>>monocoat.  My question is: How does one stripe this stuff?  Do you cover
>>with a base color, cut stripes out of some other color and stick them on
>>with the iron?  Or do you get some kind of paint, mask off the stripes
>>and paint them on?  Or do you cut the monocoat to fit (i.e. different
>>pieces for the stripes, but they only overlap the rest of the covering
>>and are not placed on top of a base covering?  The latter seems quite
>>ridiculous!

There used to be something on the market called Solarfilm Solvent. The
idea was you would cut your trim out of Solarfilm, wipe some of this 
stuff on the glue side, which softened the glue, then stick the pieces 
on the solarfilm you used to cover the model. Worked like a charm too. 
Isn't there something similar for Monokote, or is there some common 
solvent one could use instead? 

There are also Monokote Trim Sheets. The trick to using these is to use
soapy water under the trim sheets so one can slide the trim around be-
fore fixing in place. Find some trim sheets with the instructions on the 
back.

I've also often done the thing you mentioned: ironing layers of covering
on top of other covering. Works pretty well for the most part, but I am
usually covering combat planes and am not usually concerned with getting
flawless results.


-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Iskandar Taib                          | The only thing worse than Peach ala
Internet: NTAIB@SILVER.UCS.INDIANA.EDU |    Frog is Frog ala Peach
Bitnet:   NTAIB@IUBACS                 !
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: hutto@SMTC.engr.scarolina.edu (Brent Hutto)
Subject: Re: Crystals AM & FM
Reply-To: hutto@smtc.engr.scarolina.edu
Organization: NIST Southeast Manufacturing Technology Center
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 92 16:50:42 GMT

In article <1992Jul23.115921.4298@lmpsbbs.comm.mot.com>, bobwo@ecs.comm.mot.com (Bob Woodhouse) writes:
>Hello,
>
>I have ofeten seen advertisements for pairs of radio crystals in R/C
>magazines where crystals marketed for AM radios sell for about $10
>a pair and those marketed for FM radios sell for about $20 a pair,
>all in the same ad.  Maybe the crystals really are different, but I
>really doubt it.  In all the time I have played with crystals, a
>crystal was pretty much a crystal, and maybe something like closeness
>of actual frequency to nominal frequency or stability over temperature
>changes could be real differences among various crystals.  It seems
>far more likely that some marketeer decided that people with FM radios
>are probably serious enough about their hobby that they will spend more 
>money.  Who knows, maybe I am forgetting some crystal property that would
>make some kind of crystal more suitable for AM and another crystal type
>more suitable for FM.  Any thoughts on the matter could be of interest.
>
>Bob "gee, am I gonna have to ask where all the r/c car posts are in order
>     to stimulate r/c car posts" Woodhouse

    I think the *reason* for the price difference is as you said,
    it's what the market will bear.  The only "quality" difference
    is that you have to modulate the frequency of the FM transmit
    crystal, but not the AM one, but I don't think that matters.
    The only "economic" difference is that they sell a heck of a
    lot more AM crystals than FM ones, so maybe there's an economy
    of scale.

    The reason you can't use AM and FM crystals interchangably is
    that many modern FM receivers are dual conversion with a 1st
    IF of 10.7MHz (maybe it's 9MHz, who cares).  Therefore an FM
    dual-conversion receiver crystal will be on a different LO
    frequency than an AM single-conversion (455KHz IF) receiver
    crystal.  Boy, I can still talk that hardware talk after all
    these years in the computer business.  Must be some brain
    cells still alive after all :-)

    Then again, I think even the FM car receivers are still
    single-conversion, so this may all be spurious (more RF talk,
    eh?).  One other possibility is that they may use a lower
    frequency crystal in the transmitter, modulate it just a
    little bit and then multiply up to the transmit frequency.
    I've never looked that closely into my transmitter module.

-------------------------------
Brent Hutto
hutto@SMTC.engr.scarolina.edu
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: weimer@spud.NoSubdomain.NoDomain (Gary Weimer 726-3370)
Subject: Re: Starting RC Helicopters
Reply-To: weimer@pixel.kodak.com
Organization: Eastman Kodak Co.; Rochester, NY
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 92 19:23:48 GMT

In article <92207.215404BTM105@psuvm.psu.edu>, <BTM105@psuvm.psu.edu> writes:
>I have about 2 or so years of airplane   experience from when I was in the Army
>and am planning on buying a helicopter when I graduate from college.  There are
>2 models I have in mind, the Concept 30 or the Shuttle.  I would appreciate if
>anyone could offer me any input or suggestions on either of these 2 machines
>or advise about helicopters in general.  I am also curios about electric-
>powered machines.          Thank You for Your Time
>                           Brian Micek
>                           Penn State University; PA, USA

From what I remember of this discussion last time around, the first
thing to consider is parts availablility. If it's difficult to get parts
for one, get the other.

Aside from that, I don't remember seeing any suggestions that one is
"better" than the other. A friend of mine says that the Concept is
easier to setup & trim and that others have noted the same. He was
selling me a Concept at the time which may have biased his opinion, but
I don't think he would have flat-out lied...

Since the topic is valid, I think I'll gloat now... :-)

I picked up my Concept 30 Sunday and have already been through 10 tanks
(including additional 2 oz outboard tank). One tank when I picked up the
heli (HAD to make sure it worked (-: ), and two more as soon as I got it
home.

I say "tank fulls" instead of "flights" because I'm running on the
ground, rolling around on a dowel & wiffle-ball trainer.

Took vacation Monday (Mom visiting from out of state you see... (-: ).
After three more tank fulls in the morning, I was usually pushing the
right stick in the right direction each time.

By the third tank full that afternoon, I was hovering in ground-effect
for short periods, landing frequently to get things under control when
over-steer or confusion got out of hand. I tried once more that evening,
but things didn't go so well. The breeze was stronger, and fatigue may
have had some affect.

While it looks like I might be able to achieve a stable hover in a few
weeks/months, I feel like it will be years before I'll be able to keep
things straight when the helicopter's orientation changes with respect
to myself. It gives me a lot more respect for those who can do this well.

-- 

weimer@ssd.kodak.com ( Gary Weimer )
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: kevinc@adp.uucp (Kevin Cherek)
Subject: filler materials, striping monocoat
Organization: U of Wisconsin ADP
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 92 16:23:52 GMT


Hi,

I'm finishing a Sig Senior (my first plane).  I plan to cover with
monocoat.  My question is: How does one stripe this stuff?  Do you cover
with a base color, cut stripes out of some other color and stick them on
with the iron?  Or do you get some kind of paint, mask off the stripes
and paint them on?  Or do you cut the monocoat to fit (i.e. different
pieces for the stripes, but they only overlap the rest of the covering
and are not placed on top of a base covering?  The latter seems quite
ridiculous!

Also, what kind of filler materials would modelers out there recommend?
This is strictly for balsa and not for exotic materials like carbon
fiber or whatever.

Thanks,
- kev -

-- 
Kevin Cherek
Programmer/Analyst
UW-Madison Dept. of Info. Technology
Ph (608)263-8035
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib)
Subject: Re: magazine index
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 17:02:17 GMT

In article <shane.07l9@peeker.uucp> shane@peeker.uucp (Shane R. McCarthy) writes:
>> If no one has created one maybe we can collectively create one.
>
>
>   I was pondering the same question.  My interest is in planes thou.
>Anyone out there come across an index in ASCII for R/C planes.

*!IDEA!*

I'll start something for C/L articles. Quite a bit less ground to cover. 






-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Iskandar Taib                          | The only thing worse than Peach ala
Internet: NTAIB@SILVER.UCS.INDIANA.EDU |    Frog is Frog ala Peach
Bitnet:   NTAIB@IUBACS                 !
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc