HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: fulks@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: TYCO HO questions
Date: 30 Sep 92 15:44:36 MDT
Organization: Utah State University




I have just purchased a TYCO HO scale train set (Chattanooga Chooo) for
my 5 year old son for Christmas.  I have noted the availability of 
trains, cars, and assorted accesories made by BACHMAN (made in China)
at seemingly very reasonable prices (loco & caboose for $15).  As I
am new to this, would someone please enlighten me as to the quality
of TYCO, BACHMAN, and other companies?  What are the pros & cons, and
what should I watch out for?

Also interested in sources for possible layout plans.  I intend to
mount the track on plywood, and welcome suggestions, cautions, etc.

I understand HO scale is a bit small and delicate for a 5 year old,
but made the decision based on space per layout and cost and availability
of accessories.

Thanks in advance,

		Steve Fulks
		Utah State University









Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: ardie@UIUC (Richard D. McClary)
Subject: "Who made this loco? Wabash 574"
Organization: Department of Plant Pathology
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 11:59:16 GMT

More than you should want to know about Wabash #574:

1.  Wabash class F-4, built Sep '99 by Rhode Island
2.  Originally WAB #762, it was scrapped Dec '31
	(some F-4's were used until '55!)
3.  64" drivers, 190 lb boiler pressure, cylinders 19 x 28",
	6" valve travel; engine total wt 123525 lb; 25507 lb
	tractive power
4.  Tender capacity - 10 tons coal, 6000 gal water
	(engine  + tender wt 215825 lb)

If someone actually wants to SEE a Wabash F-4, #573 is in the
	National Museum of Transport near St. Louis, MO

			Richard Mc
			Wabash Goeqe*
			ardie@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu

	*Academically Correct spelling of "geek"
Organization: Sophomore, Civil Engineering, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 10:13:50 -0400 
From: "Derrick J. Brashear" <db74+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: where to get "All About Signals"?
Distribution: na

Best bet to get "All about signals" or any other book you can't find is
to see the interlibrary loan folks at your local library. They're
usually happy to help, and it shouldn't cost more than a buck or two. At
least, it works for me:-)

-D

Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: gwe@cbnews.cb.att.com (george.w.erhart)
Subject: Re: Periodical Database?
Organization: AT&T
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 11:08:25 GMT

In article <1992Sep25.222717.17379@noose.ecn.purdue.edu> kollerd@pasture.ecn.purdue.edu (David R Koller) writes:
>   Are there any public-domain databases of model railroad literature
>available?  I've seen a few computerized databases for MR, RMC, etc.
>advertised in the press, but they always cost a bit too much.  Maybe
                                          ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

What is your definition of "cost a bit too much"? I purchased an index
and software from Data Train at this years NMRA National Convention for
$49.99. This included a complete index of MR, RMC, MainLine Modeler,
Model Railroading, and RailModel Journal. The total number of years in
the index is something like 120. The great part is that the index is
in DBase III format and I have other programs that can access this data.
Also, DT will upgrade the index for $10 if you send in the original
floppies. 

If you considered the time to scan and correct an OCR of a typical
magazine index ... this is a deal.
-- 
George Erhart
AT&T Bell Laboratories
Columbus, Ohio
att!archie!gwe or gwe@archie.att.com
From: wbrown@bevsun.bev.lbl.gov (Bill Brown)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: Re: Elevated Railroad...
Date: 6 Oct 1992 15:14:44 GMT
Organization: Lawrence Berkeley Laboratory, California
NNTP-Posting-Host: 131.243.192.17

In article <david.hoisve.75.718323202@uuserv.cc.utah.edu> david.hoisve@uuserv.cc.utah.edu writes:
>The plan is to install a shelf around the perimeter of the room, roughly 6.5 
>	...
>feet off the ground, and install the railroad on the shelf.  The room is 20 
>by 11 feet.

Many years ago (50's, I think) there was an article in MR by someone who did
exactly this.  Even tunneled thru the walls between a room and a hall, I think.
Seems like since doors are usually 6'8" high you would need to be at least
that far from the floor.  Sounds like you will need a couple of short ladders.

Bear in mind that benchwork does not have zero thickness, especially if you
want to mount concealed switch machines.

>The shelf would feature one track for most of the distance, with turnouts 
>and sidings at each end of the room.

Sounds very do-able.
>
>I've seen a similar layout using LGB trains, but, due to cost, and the 
>apparently incredible variety of cars and accessories, I'm seriously 
>considering HO scale.  Has anyone done anything similar?  Is this generally 
>a good or bad idea?  What about using HO scale?  
>
>Also -- what is the minimum radius for a 90-degree HO turn?

At this point, I'd suggest that you get (and digest) a couple of books by
John Armstrong - "Track Planning for Realistic Operation" and "Creative
Layout Design" or (darn - can't remember the name of the third!).  They're
paperbacks published by Kalmbach - most hobby shops should have them.

Good luck!

Disclaimer:  These opinions are my own and have	    |
    nothing to do with the official policy or the   |  -bill
    management of L.B.L, who probably couldn't      |   wlbrown@lbl.gov
    care less about employees who play with trains. |
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: Baird_David@Tandem.com (David G. Baird)
Subject: Re: Thank you for responses
Followup-To: rec.models.railroad
Organization: Tandem Computers (Cupertino, CA)
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 02:00:05 GMT

> I especially appreciate the cautions on my choice of HO instead of 
> standard gauge.  I realize this choice will be somewhat to my
> 5 year old boys frustration, but still believe for our initial few
> hundred dollars the set-up will be more complete.
> 
> I have noted at some chain toy stores BACHMAN buildings & gates,
> most commonly marked down to the $3 to $9 range depending on
> goodies (sounds; lights; action).  
> 
> 		Steve Fulks

  I would like to back up the opinions about Athearn equipment for
children. My dad bought mostly Athearn locos and cars for my sister and
me when I was 5 or 6 and she was 10. I am very active in model railroading
now, over 20 years later. I am still running many of my original Athearn
engines! They are a great bargain - good price, sturdy construction, and
enough detail to be completely presentable in a hobbyist's layout. They
really do offer the growth path from toys for kids to deeper involvement
in the hobby later.

  I also would second the opinion that hornhook couplers are adequate for
kids. Kids will be a bit rough on the equipment, and you don't want to
be fussing with couplers that require close tolerances. Let me say that
when (not if :<)) you do get into more advanced stages of the hobby, you
will fall in love with Kadee couplers. But don't bother with them now.

  For things like buildings and light fixtures, get all the Bachmann and
Tyco you want. They will add a lot of great features to your layout, and
they'll make it more fun to play with. I still remember the Tyco light
towers I had. It's really fun to turn off all the lights in the room and
turn on the trains and scenery lights. And I remember a Tyco flat car
that had a solenoid in it for tilting the 3 logs off it at a special
unloading dock. Kids go ape over these things.

  I recommend Atlas electrical products and track. Do get nickel silver
track from now on. It looks better and oxidizes much less. The Atlas
turnouts are great. You can run them easily from a remote spot, using
a switch that comes with the turnout. It's easy for kids to use, and you
can put little labels to identify the switch number. Have a layout with
lots of switches and a control panel with a diagram of where they are.
Your kids will pick up how to run trains all over the place in no time,
and you can do it from one spot.

  Adults like to run their trains at slow prototypical speeds. Kids love to
run at full blast. If you want to throw caution to the wind, get an
Athearn model called a Hustler. It's a little switcher that's driven off
a rubber band. It's the fastest thing I've ever seen. Beware, though, it
can easily tip over on tight curves, like 18" radius. When I raced my
sister on our layout, she'd always win because she had the Hustler and I
had a gear driven switcher.

  The memories are really stirred up now. Have a great time.

David }
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: stev@vax.ftp.com  (stev knowles)
Subject: A-LINE IMPAK container adapters
Nntp-Software: PC/TCP NNTP
Keywords: IMPAK, A-LINE
Organization: FTP Software, Inc., Wakefield, MA
Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1992 18:42:01



OK, maybe i am missing something here. i bought two packages of the A-LINE
container adapters. they come in a *small* package, with no instructions.
there are 4 identical pieces, which fit over the center sill of the IMPAK
cars, but are not obvious to use. how may units of the 5 unit car does this
package provide, 2 or 4? i actually got prototype pictures within the last 2
weeks (on the RFP main line, sometime between 1pm and 3pm on a friday
afternoon, it was a piggy/container train). the prototypes i saw were
confusing: 

1) they had *3* supports per unit (to allow 2 20' containers or 1 40')

2) they had different trailer coupler pads, ones that looked like the ones
on the athearn 89' flats (the ones that fold down).

the athearn model is confusing here since a 40 foot container basically
requires the removal of the trailer hitch, and the container *still* gets in
the way of the post the hitch assembly mounts on.


any idea of what is going on here?

any help would be appreciated.



Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: johnh@genghis.borland.com (John Haskey)
Subject: Live Steam Model Railroading
Originator: johnh@genghis.borland.com
Organization: Borland International
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 04:00:09 GMT

Hello all...

	My wife doesn't think I'm spending enough on my hobby so I thought
I'd take a look at getting involved with live steam. :-)  Anyway, I was
looking for the Net.Consensus on the various companies that supply parts
and accessories for the construction of live steam locomotives.  What can
you tell me about

	Railroad Supply Corporation		Burbank, CA
	Little Engines				Durango, CO
	Cole's Power Models			Ventura, CA
	Mercer Locomotive Works			Trenton, NJ
	Allen Models				Goleta, CA

	Secondly,  I'd like to build models on 7.5" gauge track ( I think
that 7.5" is popular in the west and 7.25" is popular in the east.  Is this
correct?).  Since I want to model the locomotives and cars of the narrow
gauge South Pacific Coast ( 3' gauge), what scale should I model in?  Is
there a standard for this proportion?  I know that 1.5" scale presumes that
7.5" gauge track is standard gauge.  What have people done in this situation?

	Any hints, ideas, warnings, or other advice would be appreciated!


-- 
---------
johnh@genghis.borland.com
My opinions are my own but I'll gladly share them with you!
From: jstewart@Software.Mitel.COM (John Stewart)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: Re: Live Steam Model Railroading
Date: 30 Sep 92 15:20:56 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Mitel. Kanata (Ontario). Canada.

In article <1992Sep29.040009.22863@genghis.borland.com> johnh@genghis.borland.com (John Haskey) writes:
>	Secondly,  I'd like to build models on 7.5" gauge track ( I think
>that 7.5" is popular in the west and 7.25" is popular in the east.  Is this
>correct?).  Since I want to model the locomotives and cars of the narrow
>gauge South Pacific Coast ( 3' gauge), what scale should I model in?  Is
>there a standard for this proportion?  I know that 1.5" scale presumes that
>7.5" gauge track is standard gauge.  What have people done in this situation?

Hints? Warnings? Ok, here goes!

1) bolt together kits are not really bolt-together. seemingly, one needs
a fairly well equipped workshop.  (I enjoy building, not running)

2) working in the larger scales, things get expensive and heavy. At a club
that I used to belong to, one fellow made 1/5 scale models of west coast
prototypes. (ever seen a 1/5 scale model of a 2-6-6-2?) These weighed 
approximately 1/2 ton, dry. They were also very expensive, when he sold
them.

2.5) I had a look at the Little Engines 1-1/2" scale 4-8-4 a few years
ago, and the raw castings and some materials were $10k. (if my memory
is right) You will probably double to quadruple this cost when it is
finished.

3) to work out your scale, divide 3 feet by 7.5 (or 7.25 if in the east)
and that is the scale, if you want to be 100% accurate.

4) the companies that you mentioned all are run to serve people; they are
not mega-corps. Write or phone, and you probably will get the owner!
I would have no hesitations dealing with them (and have had no problems
in the past)


Saying all that... go for it, if you have the time and the money. You
may want to go for something smaller at first, so that you atleast get
to finish something, and you can build up your shop without forking over
too much money at once.

Visit live steam tracks, and talk to people. You may be able to buy
something second-hand, but at least you may get an appreciation of the
time and costs involved.

Subscribe to Live Steam, or Model Engineer. Live Steam has a new series
on building a 3/4" scale (1/16th scale) 0-4-0 switcher by a fellow who
really knows how to design and build.

There are a few live steamers out there in the net; I'm sure that you
will get more information from them.

John Stewart
jstewart@software.mitel.com
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: larsenp@mace.cc.purdue.edu (Paul Larsen)
Subject: how does Athearn paint?
Organization: Purdue University
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 00:39:11 GMT

After painting a few cars which required masking, I found myself wondering 
how Athearn and the other companies are able to paint multiple colors on a 
car and still produce mass quantities.  Do they mask their cars or do they have
a much quicker system for doing it?  And how do they apply lettering?


Paul Larsen
larsenp@mace.cc.purdue.edu

Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: stev@vax.ftp.com  (stev knowles)
Subject: Re: Thank you for responses
Nntp-Software: PC/TCP NNTP
Organization: FTP Software, Inc., Wakefield, MA
Date: Fri, 02 Oct 1992 16:46:54

>  Adults like to run their trains at slow prototypical speeds. Kids love to
>run at full blast. If you want to throw caution to the wind, get an

hey! speak for youself:).

>Athearn model called a Hustler. It's a little switcher that's driven off
>a rubber band. It's the fastest thing I've ever seen. Beware, though, it
>can easily tip over on tight curves, like 18" radius. When I raced my
>sister on our layout, she'd always win because she had the Hustler and I
>had a gear driven switcher.

actually, the hustler i have seems very jerky if run aat anything lower than
full bore. . .  it also tends to stall on the turnouts if run at anything
less than full speed . . . 

>  The memories are really stirred up now. Have a great time.

hey, if nothing else, after you outgrow the backman and tyco stuff, you can
pass them on to someone else to infect. . . . . the more people who are
buying, the better the prices and the selection will get . . . .
From: wbrown@bevsun.bev.lbl.gov (Bill Brown)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: Re: Helix Calculation
Date: 6 Oct 1992 20:26:23 GMT
Organization: Lawrence Berkeley Laboratory, California
NNTP-Posting-Host: 131.243.192.17

In article <1992Oct6.153144.2134@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> cwatters@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Coyt D Watters) writes:
>Does anyone have a method for designing a helix?  I am building a 
>Ntrak compatible layout, but due to space restrictions, am going to 
>have a second layer about 20-24" above the first layer.  I want to
>build a helix to bring the loco from the lower level to the upper and
>vice versa.
>
>Space restrictions dictate that the radius be MAX 22".
>
>Anyone have any suggestions, or should I just build an elevator long
>enough to handle my "longer" trains?

Well - it shouldn't be too hard.  The circumference of a circle is
	
	2 * pi * radius

So one turn is equal to a run of 2 * 2.14 * 22" = 138"  One of these
babies builds mileade in a hurry - sounds like you would need about
7 turns, which is 80' or over 2 scale miles!  All normally hidden!

A grade of 2.5% (maybe a little steep, but maybe in the ball-park) gives
a gain in elevation of just under 3.5" per turn.  Probably the minimum
clearance one could live with, allowing for maintenance, derailments, etc.
and also taking into account the thickness of the roadbed.

A while back John Armstrong had a (HO) trackplan in MR where he put at
least one passing siding on a helix.  Sounds like a good place to hide
one!

Elevators are another problem - I've day-dreamed about both abd a helix
seems simpler IFF you have the room for it.

If I blew the arithmetic - well - that's the way it goes!

Disclaimer:  These opinions are my own and have	    |
    nothing to do with the official policy or the   |  -bill
    management of L.B.L, who probably couldn't      |   wlbrown@lbl.gov
    care less about employees who play with trains. |
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: wash@mamacass.etdesg.trw.com (Michael Washington)
Subject: Re: Helix Calculation
Keywords: Pi
Organization: TRW Inc., Redondo Beach, CA
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 92 22:28:54 GMT

In article <26673@dog.ee.lbl.gov> wbrown@bevsun.bev.lbl.gov (Bill Brown) writes:
>In article <1992Oct6.153144.2134@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> cwatters@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Coyt D Watters) writes:
>
>Well - it shouldn't be too hard.  The circumference of a circle is
>	
>	2 * pi * radius
>
>So one turn is equal to a run of 2 * 2.14 * 22" = 138"  One of these
                                      ^^^^
Pi is equal to 3.14159, not 2.14!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

>babies builds mileade in a hurry - sounds like you would need about
>7 turns, which is 80' or over 2 scale miles!  All normally hidden!
>
>
>Disclaimer:  These opinions are my own and have	    |
>    nothing to do with the official policy or the   |  -bill
>    management of L.B.L, who probably couldn't      |   wlbrown@lbl.gov
>    care less about employees who play with trains. |

"Live Long and Prosper!"
 Michael N. Washington
From: af093@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (James Szorady)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: American flyer transformer
Date: 5 Oct 1992 15:19:13 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc4.ins.cwru.edu


Hi-

I've recently  obtained an American Flyer toy transformer
no. 1-1/2 .  If this is of intrest to anyone please leave
e-mail. 
-- 
I THINK, THEREFORE I RAM....
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: steever@cp4.cp.bell-atl.com (Richard E. Steever)
Subject: Weathering Techniques
Organization: C & P Tel. Co. - Minicomputer Techn. Support Dist.
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 15:21:21 GMT


Looking for a good beginners reference for weathering model RR rolling stock
and scenery.  Any suggestions on a book to guide me into this effort?

Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: jsm@phoenix.Princeton.EDU (John Scott McCauley Jr.)
Subject: Re: Helix Calculation
Originator: news@nimaster
Organization: Princeton University
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 00:34:33 GMT

In article <1992Oct6.153144.2134@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> cwatters@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Coyt D Watters) writes:
>Does anyone have a method for designing a helix?  I am building a 
>Ntrak compatible layout, but due to space restrictions, am going to 
>have a second layer about 20-24" above the first layer.  I want to
>build a helix to bring the loco from the lower level to the upper and
>vice versa.
>
>Space restrictions dictate that the radius be MAX 22".
>
>Anyone have any suggestions, or should I just build an elevator long
>enough to handle my "longer" trains?
>
>-Coyt
>
>
>

I've also thought about building a helix. I think the usual method is to form
the roadbed from 90 to 360 degree cuts from thin plywood or foam core board.

However, using the above method you might wind up with lots of waste material
and nasty joints where the cuts meet.

How about this? (NB: I haven't tried this!) Take a 2'x2'x1/2" of foam core
board, cut it up to make lots of 2'x1/2"x1/2" strips (with a paper cutter
and a jig maybe?), and then glue several of them together to make the roadbed:

               l  l                Rail
             ========              Tie
	    --- --- ---            Foam Core strips
           |   |   |   |
	    --- --- ---

The 1/2"x1/2" strips of foam core board should be flexible enough to bend
to a 15-22" radius and 2-4% grade. You can stagger the long-way joints
to increase reliability.

The advantage of this method is that there is little wasted material.
The big disadvantage might be cost -- finding flexible, yet strong 
material might cost more than plywood.

	Scott
Organization: Sophomore, Civil Engineering, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Date: Fri,  2 Oct 1992 13:40:46 -0400 
From: "Derrick J. Brashear" <db74+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: TYCO equipment(long)

Actually, (in defense of Bachmann) some of their stuff isn't so bad.
I've used a Bachmann Streamlined trolley for quite a while (It's really
a PCC). Granted, it came in colors billed as Pittsburgh Railways which
weren't exactly what I'd call close, and the body sits up a bit too high
in order to clear the motor. But after a repaint, I have a streetcar
which runs well as long as you keep the engine lubricated, for far less
then the $50 I spent on the Bowser PCC I have. 

Also, the Metroliner HO set Bachmann makes has something to be said for
it. No one else makes a Metroliner MU car body, so I'm working on
getting at least the cars from one of these sets. Yes, I'll probably
repower it, but it's easier than grafting a custom built Metroliner
front to an Amfleet car.

So not all Bachmann stuff is BAD for a modeller 8-)

-D
From: andradee@woods.ulowell.edu
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: Re: Thank you for responses
Date: 2 Oct 92 16:01:01 GMT
Followup-To: rec.models.railroad
Organization: University of Lowell

>   Adults like to run their trains at slow prototypical speeds. Kids love to
> run at full blast. If you want to throw caution to the wind, get an
> Athearn model called a Hustler. It's a little switcher that's driven off
> a rubber band. It's the fastest thing I've ever seen. Beware, though, it
> can easily tip over on tight curves, like 18" radius. When I raced my
> sister on our layout, she'd always win because she had the Hustler and I
> had a gear driven switcher.
> 
>   The memories are really stirred up now. Have a great time.

	Another fast Athearn product is their RDC. This is also rubber band
driven, (Although for the price they charge now it should be gear driven). When
I had mine still on the rubber bands, I clocked it doing well OVER 200 scale 
MPH, come to think, it might have topped 300, but I do not remember now, and
that drive has long since been replaced with a gear drive.