HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: veeduh@leland.stanford.edu ()
Subject: car covers
Organization: Stanford University, California, USA
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 04:24:26 GMT

What kind of car cover should I buy?  They very greatly in price depending
on whether they are nylon, poly-cotton, or that really thick stuff.  Any
opinions on the matter?
Xref: sparky misc.consumers:16338 sci.energy:4252 sci.environment:11188 sci.med:17029 sci.physics:14321 talk.:5
From: jac@ds8.scri.fsu.edu (Jim Carr)
Newsgroups: pdx.consumer,misc.consumers,sci.energy,sci.environment,sci.med,sci.physics,talk.
Subject: Re: Are Your Light Bulbs Radioactive?
Date: 9 Sep 92 13:57:51 GMT
Reply-To: jac@ds8.scri.fsu.edu (Jim Carr)
Followup-To: pdx.consumer
Organization: SCRI, Florida State University

In article <1992Sep9.013437.27935@mtu.edu> cescript@mtu.edu (Charles Scripter) writes:
>
>In article <s7TFqB10w165w@iowegia.uucp>, quest@iowegia.uucp
>(Steve J. Quest) writes:
>
>> steinman@is.morgan.com (Jan Steinman) writes:
>> 
>> >   >Abstract: Alert!!! some compact flourescent light bulbs have radioactive
>> >   >materials in them.
>> 
>>         Can anyone tell me exactly what radioactive substance is 
>> used in these lamps?  I can assume the element is thorium, as that 
>
>Thorium, as this is very efficient at converting heat to white light.
>Incandescents use Thoriated Tungsten for the same reason.  Similarly,
>gas lantern mantles are "Thoriated" for the same reason.

This is a fascinating record of the loss of information due to partial 
quotes of an article as that original article is used to spawn other 
discussions and then comes back full circle to the original question.  

The *original* post that was quoted by Steinman from another article 
actually stated what material was used in the compact fluorescent bulb, 
since the material was listed on the packaging!  The material was not 
Thorium.  My memory says it was something like Pm-147 with a 2.6 year 
half-life.  This Promethium isotope is a beta emitter, and is used to 
provide ionization that makes the bulb light more easily. 

--
J. A. Carr                                    |  "The New Frontier of which I  
jac@gw.scri.fsu.edu                           |  speak is not a set of promises
Florida State University  B-186               |  -- it is a set of challenges."
Supercomputer Computations Research Institute |   John F. Kennedy (15 July 60)
From: timlee@public.btr.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers
Subject: Re: Absurd Recycling Efforts
Date: 6 Sep 92 18:56:05 GMT
Reply-To: timlee@btr.com (Timothy J. Lee)
Followup-To: misc.consumers
Distribution: usa

jslee@nrtc.nrtc.northrop.com (John Lee <jslee>) writes:
|I just opened a box of size 10 (legal size) envelopes. They are blank, with
|no safety printing on the inside. But then I found the goofy triangular
|recycle symbol printed in the lower left rear corner. 
|
|It may seem on the surface that the envelope mfr is a green-conscious
|company, until you think a little more and wonder how much more
|printing that goofy symbol added to the cost of the product, and how
|much in ink and printing chemicals was used.

Just marketing.  People who want to buy green have to be careful about
green claims.  Note that the word "recycled" on a product can have
different meanings in different states.

--------------------------------------------------------------------
Timothy J. Lee                 timlee@btr.com  ...!decwrl!btr!timlee
This message comes with no warranty, not even an implied warranty of
fitness for any particular purpose.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: greg@netcom.com (Greg Bullough)
Subject: Re: Hurricane Andrew's effect on building materials
Date: Wed, 09 Sep 92 17:06:33 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Distribution: usa

In article <1992Sep09.155252.15647@i88.isc.com> jeq@i88.isc.com (Jonathan E. Quist) writes:
>In article <1992Sep9.133454.14188@nscf.org> mlf@nscf.org (Mary Lou Freil) writes:
>>Well I can't comment on the midwest but here in Georgia building materials
>>are now becomming quite scarce. According to our builder (he built our
>>house last year and is about to start building a barn for us) the
>>price of plywood doubled last week.
>
>Ah, yes, don't you just love our free enterprise system!  Whenever someone's
>down, there's always someone willing to step in, lend a hand,
>and give them another kick.  Sounds like time to save all the newspaper
>ads you can, and hold the dealers to their advertised prices.
 
This strikes me as odd. In the past, it has been usual in times of national 
crisis, to take legal steps against price-gouging and profiteering.
 
Where is the federal government in all of this?
 
Greg
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Windows leaking - advice wanted
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 92 15:27:43 GMT

In article <5000084@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com> hmoss@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Howard Moss) writes:

>Any similar hints for aluminum windows? I have terrible problems with
>interior water stains (they are right around the window, not going down
>the walls) and mold that grows on the sill. Where are the gaskets or leak
>holes that maybe damaged or missing after 15 years of life? The outside
>wall is stucco (oh, did I get stucco) so i don't plan on replacing the
>windows as I'm sure it'll be very expensive...

Most likely you are seeing damage from condensation. About the only cure
for that is to paint the frames (to me, that's worse than the disease). As
for leak holes, these are usually in the bottom track of sliders (or any
other window that has a U shaped channel at the bottom). Windows that swing
out don't normally need leak holes. You should also find leak holes somewhere
in the bottom frame of your storm windows (if you have them).

As for gaskets, my 23 year old aluminum sliders don't have any. They *do*
have a sort of springy steel edge on the top and outside edges which is
supposed to act as a seal.

Most of my sliders have the following leak arrangement. The actual frame
is flat at the bottom outside edge and has a lip on the inside, so any water
that gets in there will stay outside. It's covered with a double U shaped
channel, in which the windows slide, but that doesn't extend all the way
to the right or left sides, so any water that gets in there can run down
to the end of the channel and out. To keep this system working, you need
to take the bottom channel out every few years and clean it.

I do have four large windows, however, that have drain holes in the sides
of the U channels which allow water to drain to the outside. Again, the
channels and holes must be cleaned every few years.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | If train stations are where trains stop, 
                    | what are work stations?
                    |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: drevik@utkvx1.utk.edu (Drevik, Steve)
Subject: Re: suggested weapons (was: Killing burglars.)
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: University of Tennessee Computing Center
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 15:07:00 GMT

Now back to discussing the optimum alignment of crystals....

90 degrees or 110?

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,rec.travel,misc.kids
From: acantin@dg-webo.rtp.dg.com (Anne Cantin )
Subject: Info about New Jersey neighborhoods sought
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 92 20:33:20 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Data General Corporation, RTP, NC.

Hi fellow netters!
   I just found out that my brother and his new bride will be moving to
New Jersey (due to job relocation.)  I know the job is in Far Hills
New Jersey, but have no idea what the area is like.  Can those of you
who live in New Jersey (or used to live in New Jersey) suggest any
nice, relatively safe neighborhoods in the vicinity of Far Hills? (I
think they are interested in staying within a 30-minute commuting range.)
I am cross-posting this to misc.kids with the hope that some N.J. parents
will respond -- I know my brother and his wife would like to live in an
area that is safe (I know, is any place ever, really safe?) for children.

So, I anxiously await your comments regarding N.J.   Info about taxes
(state and local) would also be a big help.  Please email to me 
directly and I will make sure my brother sees all responses.  Thanks
alot! 

-Anne     (Anne_Cantin@bluto.ceo.dg.com or anne@bmw.webo.dg.com)



From: ajeans@hplred.HP.COM (Albert Jeans)
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 15:15:23 GMT
Subject: Re: Re: How do I remove rust stains from cement?
Organization: Hewlett Packard Labs, Palo Alto CA
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house

Salt and lemon juice takes rust stains out of fabrics so it should work on other
materials too.
From: vikc@digital.sps.mot.com (Vikrant Chaudhry)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Your expertise required ...
Date: 13 Sep 92 03:49:20 GMT
Organization: Motorola, LICD, SPS, Mesa, AZ


Hi Netters !


	I am a first time home buyer, and have recently started 
looking for a house. I have been following this News group on &
off, and have picked up some very valuable tips and guide lines.
I still have some questions and would like to get your wisdom on
them.

	I have seen couple of good houses which I like, is there 
a way to find out details about any recent sales in the neighbor
-hood. What price were they sold for ? How much was the apprecia
-tion of the property in last couple of years ? Are house appraisals
fairly accurate in terms of market value of the house ? 

	I am planning to go for a 30 yr fixed rate financing, how
many points can I expect to pay for financing ? What should I watch
for in a mortgage firm ? Some time back there was a thread here
about getting a home inspected for plumbing/termite/roof/structure/
etc.. How much should I expect to pay for such a service ? I am 
assuming that they give a report on the house - what would be some
good questions (which they otherwise might not report) to ask ?
What would be some small hidden things I can look for ?

	I would appreciate any inputs from you and will try to 
compile a guide for first time home buyers. Thanks in advance..


Vikrant  


Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Odd home defense shotguns (was Re: suggested weapons
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 92 18:39:59 GMT

In article <1992Sep5.051950.22343@michael.apple.com> ems@michael.apple.com (E. Michael Smith) writes:

<everything deleted>

In consideration for the many people who have objected to this discussion,
can we please at least leave the subject line the same? That way nobody
has to alter their kill files.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | I had been told that the best defense is a good
George Patterson -  | offense, so I made up my mind early in life to
                    | become as offensive as possible.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: sand v. concrete patio
Date: 15 Sep 92 01:39:26 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <1992Sep13.234454.10509@tamsun.tamu.edu> pzs3761@tamsun.tamu.edu (Pete Sierant) writes:
>I'm going to be expanding a 12x12 deck by taking a saw to a 3
>foot wide section of guard rail, building stairs, and installing an
>~16x16 brick patio adjacent. Since this is Texas and fairly dry,
>I'm trying to decide whether to cement the bricks down, or just
>spread several inches of sand and lay the bricks on top. There
>are advantages either way, but I'm leaning toward the sand method
>because it seems cheaper, easier, and easier to change or expand 
>in the future. Any comments or suggestions welcomed.

Even here with a four *foot* frost line and lots of snow, ice and rain,
they don't use concrete under brick patios.  Not even under brick driveways.
Unless, perhaps, you're on recent *deep* landfill.

Standard "deluxe" practise for patios here is:

	1) dig hole.  Leave base undisturbed, or use compactor.
	2) 4 inches limestone screenings (fine gravel compacts like
	   concrete) then run plate compactor over it.
	3) 2-3 inches sand, run compactor over it.
	4) 1" sand screeded level (a loosely placed brick should be 1/2" higher
	   than surrounding border)
	5) brick, then run compactor to drop brick down to border level.
	6) brush sand into the cracks.

As long as the border doesn't leak sand, these don't move at all.
[Driveways: make gravel 6-8" deep over compacted base]

You could probably cut the gravel and sand layers in half.

If the area's small enough, you can use a chunk of 6x6 as a compactor.
16x16 is too big for that.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: rbaist@cbnewsi.cb.att.com (robert.t.baist)
Subject: Builder's Square ?
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 17:54:52 GMT

There's a builder's Square upening up near me (Freehold, N.J.). I've never 
heard of them before. What r they?    like Rickel's?   Like Home Depot?

Please E-mail me.

Thanks,
Bob B.
From: blk@mitre.org (Brian L. Kahn)
Subject: Re: Home security tips from a burglar
Organization: The MITRE Corp. Bedford, MA
	<1992Sep9.233600.17853@Athena.dal.fsd.mot.com>
	<1992Sep10.160231.3536@porthos.cc.bellcore.com>
	<1992Sep11.125855.28249@meaddata.com>
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 16:56:13 GMT


In article <1992Sep10.160231.3536@porthos.cc.bellcore.com>, patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie) writes:
|> Question for you electrical wiring gurus. I'd like to wire up a pair of
|> floodlights to a three-way switch in such a manner that in one position
|> the lights are driven by a motion detector and in the other position
|> they are on. I would also put a single pole switch upstream to let me cut
|> the thing off by cutting the power to the 3-way.
|> 
|> Comments?

All the motion detector things I've seen allow you to toggle them ON
by flicking the light switch, and toggle back to AUTO by flicking the
light switch again.  I think there is no need for your 3way switch.


--
B<   Brian Kahn   blk@security.mitre.org   "may the farce be with you"

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: us267418@mmm.serc.3m.com (Andy Ihlenfeldt)
Subject: Basement wall "efflourescence" (?)
Organization: 3M - St. Paul, MN  55144-1000 US
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 92 20:01:36 GMT

When having my basement inspected prior to purchase, the inspector identified
the wall sponginess/peeling as "efflourescence" (my spelling).  He suggested 
that it wasn't a big deal.  Since then, I became a father and realized that 
the peeling was likely to include leaded paint (the house was built in 1916).  
Now I am determined to find out more about efflourescence, what causes it, 
how to prevent it and to deal with my problem.  Can you help?

My son Sam has not yet started to crawl, but the race is on for me to deal with
this serious lead hazard.  If you have any suggestions or places to look for 
more information, please send them to me or post.

Thanks very much.

Andy Ihlenfeldt
arihlenfeldt@mmm.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From:  daniel@kenext.msk.su (Finogenov Daniel Victorovich)
Subject: FLAT for SALE in Russia ( in Magadan )
Keywords: flat, sale, russia
Reply-To: daniel@kenext.msk.su
Organization: KENEXT, Ltd
Date: Tue,  8 Sep 92 18:28:23 +0300

          Dear Sears.
     I'm offer to you a flat for sale.
     Location: centre of Magadan - the capital of Russian Nord - East ( near
        Alaska ).
     Brief:
        2 rooms, kitchen, toilet & bathroom, pantry.
     Further details ( particulars ) can be obtained on request.
     The price is 7900 $ and nothing more for cash.
     I'll be happy to discuss the matter with you.
                Yours faithfully Daniel Finogenov.

        E - mail:       daniel@kenext.msk.su       or
                        daniel%kenext.msk.su@relay.eu.net
                        daniel%kenext.msk.su@techno.fuug.fi

        FAX:            Russia 095-292-65-11 for "LAVINA box 1383"

        TLX:            411700 for "LAVINA box 1383"

        Phones:         095-150-88-52 from 09:00 a.m. till 02:00 p.m.
                        095-193-50-09 from 05:00 p.m. till 07:00 p.m.
                                (Greenwich time)
From: andyt@intermec.com (Andy Tiura x1807)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Security Alarms
Date: 11 Sep 92 18:58:57 GMT
Reply-To: andyt@intermec.com (Andy Tiura x1807)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Intermec Corporation, Everett WA

Check with your local phone company and alarm company about a service called
"Scan Alert".  I know it's available in much of California and in the Seattle
area.  Additional equipment installed at your home is required.  But the
service essentially multiplexes a supervised alarm signaling circuit onto your
existing phone line.  Scan Alert equipped systems can detect the difference
between a cut line and premise alarms and don't require the phone company to 
provide hard copper loops from your home to the alarm monitoring point.  Of
course, you pay a lot more for the increased security/reliability.

In short:  leased lines are the "old way" to obtain continuous supervision of
the alarm signaling means in many localities.

-andyt
From: toml@wal.hp.com (Tom Luteran)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: phone number for Grainger
Date: 11 Sep 92 16:42:51 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard


  Hi!

    Can someone please post/e-mail the 800 # for Grainger?  It is
    not available via 800 directory assistance.  Thanks!

  Tom
--
From: jsun@sunpix.east.sun.com (John Sun - Sun NC Development Center)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Cohousing
Date: 15 Sep 1992 21:43:46 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Distribution: world
Reply-To: jsun@sunpix.east.sun.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: spinnaker.east.sun.com
Keywords: Cohousing


I have just recently learned about the concept of Cohousing.  The ideas
and goals of Cohousing seem fascinating.  What do people who know what
Cohousing is think of Cohousing?  

I know that there are quite a few working Cohousing projects in Europe 
but only two in the U.S.  I would love to hear from anyone who has 
actually participated in one!  I'm interested in overall opinions
as well as any specifics.

Thanks in advance.

John



------------------------------------------------------------------------------
John Sun                                | Internet:  jsun@sunpix.east.sun.com
Sun Microsystems                        |       
P.O. Box 13447                          | Phone:     919-460-8339 (W) 
Research Triangle Park, NC  27709-3477  |            919-942-7672 (H)
 

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: hillman@sfu.ca (Steve Hillman)
Subject: GE fridge ice-maker - Doesn't
Organization: Simon Fraser University, Burnaby, B.C., Canada
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 19:51:54 GMT

We recently purchased a used GE refrigerator (side-by-side, with ice and water
in the door). At the time, the fridge was in storage so we had no way of
knowing whether the ice maker worked or not. Upon getting it all hooked up,
I found that it doesn't. The water dispenser works just fine, but no water
ever enters the ice cube tray. I have searched all of the local libraries 
looking for schematics and troubleshooting guides on GE fridges, but none
had anything on the deluxe models with ice makers.
 
Is there any net.wisdom on where to start looking for the problem? Is there
a particularly common problem (such as blown thermostat) that I should be
looking for? Any advice would be most appreciated.


-- 
Steve "Skillman" Hillman                "Everyone generalizes"
hillman@sfu.ca
skillman@tz.wimsey.bc.ca

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: leath@atlas.cs.upei.ca (Stephen Leath)
Subject: GFCI (circuit breakers)
Originator: leath@atlas.cs.upei.ca
Organization: University of Prince Edward Island
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 13:42:28 GMT

I just read a handout from CSA that mentioned GFCI circuit breakers
to be used in breaker panels. Could these be used to protect non-grounded
circuits in the same manner as GFCI outlets  protect downstream outlets?

Thanks in Advance 

Steve Leath   leath@upei.ca
From: zardoz@rx-db (zardoz@rx-db.hf.intel.com)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Realty-English Dictionary
Date: 15 Sep 92 17:28:06 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Intel Development Tools Operation, Hillsboro, OR

Motivated Seller:
                 The coming sewer line construction is going to
                 cost each property owner $20,000 dollars.


-- 
Fan mail may be sent to:                 | 
zardoz@rx-db.hf.intel.com                | 
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,misc.consumers
From: msingh@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (The Supreme Commander)
Subject: Re: Credit report
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 1992 22:08:11 GMT


>I used to subscribe to the TRW Credit Service, and I couldn't agree
>with you more. They are a nuisance. However, you've got to play the
>game. Feed them as much data about yourself as you can. It's an
>opportunity to make yourself look good.

Granted, to build a good credit history, you have to have someone keep
"tabs" on you, or keep the information yourself. The latter might not
be enough to convince a lender that your record is indeed as good as
you say.

But as for "you've got to play the game", this kind of additude is
exactly what lets these credit reporting agencies get away with it.
*I* do not have to play the game. If I want to hurt myself, by having
credit denied due to lack of a "history", then that's my business. As
it is, *I* have no say in the matter. Information is collected on me.

Sort of makes one feel that George Orwells 1984 is right on the mark.
Not as extreme, but if you have the CIA, the FBI, the Secret Service,
the local police, *and* companies like TRW keeping tabs on you, you
do indeed have "big brother" watching over you!


			...Manu
-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------
The Supreme Commander wishes you a Supreme day. 
I'm a Magic Man, oooh, I got the magic hands, yeah...
Don't mind me, I'm just attempting to dock.
From: goddard+@cs.cmu.edu (Nigel Goddard)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Vented (i.e. opening) skylights
Date: 9 Sep 92 17:50:02 GMT
Article-I.D.: cs.BuBo7n.K6G.2
Organization: School of Computer Science, Carnegie Mellon


We're thinking of putting two skylights into the east-facing sloping
roof of our attic office.  We want ones that open, preferably with
insect screens and shades.  The shades are to keep temperatures down.
Preferably a shade should be external or sandwiched between the double
glazing.  We're thinking of Velux, and I've heard of Wasco and APC.
Can anyone comment on the quality of these brands, tell me if they
have sandwiched shades, recount experience with skylights vis-a-vis
heating/cooling and insects, and anything else we might be overlooking?

Nigel Goddard

-- 
Nigel Goddard
goddard@b.gp.cs.cmu.edu
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: daniels_d@apollo.HP.COM (Dave Daniels)
Subject: FHA loans
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 13:16:53 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Chelmsford, MA



 Has anyone here, heard of a new policy when financing
via FHA. They now reguire that you pay $600 to get the
property you want to purchase, treated for termites. I 
have no problem with that, except for we are having a house
built, what good would that do.  My question is when you
have you house treated how long does it last ?
Has anyone else run into this situation? Is there any way
around it ?
Thanks for any feedback.
-Dave

-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dave Daniels                           | 
daniels_d@apollo.hp.com                | "Life is a highway, and I wan't  
Hewlett Packard, Inc.                  |  to ride it all night long...."
(603) 772-1500

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Beware when prewiring for telephone