From: eldred@rrunner.jpl.nasa.gov (Dan Eldred)
Subject: Re: [A] Engine Q's & more
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 18:07:34 GMT

In article <1993Jan5.235623.22876@engr.LaTech.edu> jeffm@engr.LaTech.edu (Jeff L. Matocha) writes:
>     For Christmas, Santa (my brother) brought me a 1967 VW Fastback with
>90K+ on the odometer.  I have several problems with it at this point and
>have many questions.
>
>     To start off with, a little info:  
>noticable *controlled* combustions.  The results of a compression test show
>(in psi): #1-unmeasurable, #2-15, #3-30, #4-85.  I think I understand the
>explosions with this kind of non-compression.

Wow!  This must be some sort of record! A real internal combustion engine!
>
>1)  How far should I go with the rebuild?  I could probably just fix the

With this kind of compression, I would guess that the engine has been run
extensively with either almost no oil, or extremely dirty oil.  I would
count on everything inside the case being shot.  You could rebuild it by
buying a new case (the lifter bores could be shot), rebushing the rods, 
getting new lifters, grinding the crank, replacing the camshaft, replacing 
the oil pump, etc., but if things are this far gone it would be more cost
effective to look at rebuilt engines.  BTW in my experience I recommend
getting new heads as "rebuilt" heads tend to have the valve seats fall out.
They cost only about $85 each.

Another possibility, if you're lucky, is that the studs have pulled out of
the case.  In this case you may get by with a stud insert kit (a machine
shop has to install the inserts) and a
resurfacing of the case (if the cylinders can rock around then they tend
to mess up the surface of the case).  If you resurface the case then you
also have to put the right size spacers under the cylinders to maintain
the correct compression ratio and to keep the distance between the rocker
arms and lifters correct.  
>
>4)  What's the difference between Single Port and Dual Port engines 
>(should I decide to get a rebuilt one)?

I believe your engine is single port.  The differences with dual port are:
different heads, different intake manifold, and different carburettor.
The dual port heads have separate input ports for each cylinder, while
the single port heads have one input port for 2 cylinders.  The advantage
of dual port is more power, though in my experience mileage suffers a bit
compared to single port.  Unless you're prepared to do a lot of tinkering
I would stick with the single port heads.
>
>5)  What is a reasonable price to pay for the Idiot Book and where could I
>get such a price?  What are good air-cooled rebuilding books and where are
>they available?  And are there any good Type III books available (Bentley
>makes one but it is for 1968-1973's and I have the Haynes)?

I recommend the Bentley book.  It should apply to your engine, except perhaps
for the carburettor. I don't know the cost, but I would guess about $40.
>
>6)  My brakes are *gone* (not a problem now, but eventually).  What all should
>I plan to rebuild (master cylinder, etc)?

The expensive but trouble free solution is to replace everything (master
cylinder and all wheel cylinders).  Everything tends to corrode at the
same time.  The master cylinder is much more expensive than wheel cylinders
so you might try rebuilding it (use a cylinder hone and be very careful),
if you need to save money.  This can also be done to the slave cylinders,
but in my experience, if they are coroded to the point where they leak,
they are often unsalvageable.  After you get the brakes fixed, replace
the brake fluid once a year and you won't have any trouble for a long,
long time (brake fluid is hydroscopic and absorbs water;  if you replace
it occasionally you will keep corrosion causing moisture out of the system).
>
>7)  My muffler is non-existant (not a problem either).  Where is a good 
>place to get a *stock* muffler?

Any aftermarket parts place which deals in VW will have them, or JC Whitney
mailorder out of Chicago.  I recommend headers for lower back pressure, and
they are only slightly more money.
>
>8)  My floorpan is rusted beyond repair.  Who has floorpans for a Type III?
>I might eventually find one at a junkyard or have one made from sheet
>metal if there is no one.

My brother in law had a squareback in which the passenger was in danger
of falling down to the ground through the floor pan.  Get one of the VW
magazines (Hot VW's, VW & Porche, VW Trends) to find adds for fiberglass
floor pans (I guess you epoxy these in place), or find a friendly welder.
If the body is in good shape you might even consider getting an entire
floor pan/frame from a junkyard, as swapping them out is a lot of work
but is probably less work than rebuilding an engine (I did this once).
>
>     I know it sounds like a heap, but it is a *sweet* little vehicle.  I 
>just have many questions and hope that *someone* will be able to answer 
>them?  Please offer an opinion (I know you all have one) to this new
>air-cooled owner.

My additional advice is to find someone experienced in air cooled engines
to help you at first.  They are wierd compared to water cooled engines,
and a bit tricky until you know what to look for.
>
>E-mail    jeffm@engr.latech.edu
>

	- Dan		eldred@rrunner.jpl.nasa.gov