HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: dhepner@cup.hp.com (Dan Hepner)
Subject: Re: Aftermarket turbo kits
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 22:48:43 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1scd1 PL4

From: serafin@epcot.spdc.ti.com (Mike Serafin)

>>>Why don't you just trade your car in on one with the factory turbo?
>
>>I second this motion. 

>Ok, but where do I find a factory built turbocharged F250 4x4, 460ci, 5sp,
>pickup?  

Buy a Dodge.

Dan Hepner
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: Saab bulletin board
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 92 08:37:24 GMT

Sriram Sankar (sankar@Xenon.Stanford.EDU) wrote:
: 
: I've heard mention of a Saab bulletin board.  How does one get
: on it?
: 
: Thanks,
: 
: Sriram.
: sankar@cs.stanford.edu

Write to rsvp@novell.com, and tell him you would like to be on the mailing
list.

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.
hinzd@picard.med.ge.com
From: cone@controls.ccd.harris.com (Tom Cone)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Will not start when warm..
Date: 15 Sep 92 16:52:56 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Harris Controls and Composition


    I asked this question awhile back and received several suggestions.
Good ones all. I still have the problem and I am calling on the wizards
for help.
    CASE: 84 HO Mustang will not start when hot. Usually have to run the air
to get the engine compartment hot enough. Normal temp indicated on gauge.
The engine turns very slowly if at all, like the battery is dead.

    THINGS TRIED: New battery, battery cable(to solenoid and from solenoid
to starter), two "new" starters, new solenoid, new duraspark module, new coil,
new ground cable(battery to engine & frame), timing set to factory spec, new
alternator.

    OBSERVATIONS: Very seldom does it not start unless I have been running
the A/C. If I run the A/C it almost never starts(engine temp is a little higher
but still in normal range). Let the car set for 10-15 minutes and it starts
fine. Have disconnected the coil wire when cold and I can spin the motor for
many minutes before the battery begins to weaken. Charging system checked
ok.

    Anyone want to guess?

Tom
cone@ccd.harris.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: aefron@cornerstone.com (Andrew Efron)
Subject: Re: Good books to learn auto mechanics?
Reply-To: aefron@cornerstone.com (Andrew Efron)
Organization: Cornerstone Research, Cambridge, Mass.
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 1992 14:24:03 GMT

In article <1992Sep12.033515.2237@koko.csustan.edu>, james@koko.csustan.edu 
(Jonas Grumpy) writes:

> >What is/are THE authoritative book/s on automobile mechanics.  I would
> >like to learn both theory and practical instruction.  My goal
> >is to be better than 80% of the auto mechanics.  How do auto mechanics
> >learn their trade?  (besides hands-on experience).
> >
> >Any help would be appreciated.
> >Thanks.
> >
> >-- 
> >En Pum Cho					
> >University of Chicago Class of 1994
> >math & economics major
> >epc1@midway.uchicago.edu
> 
> 
> You wanna be an auto mechanic?? I hope your five years old. Because that
> is the best age to start learning. You have to be raised an auto mechanic.
> There is no book(s) thacan n teach you mechanics. If you want to be
> better than 80% of the mechanics out their. You had better be prepared
> to give up your current lifestyle and become an apprentice at joes corner
> gastation. Being a mechanic is more tn changing your brakes or installing
> a rebuilt water pump.

Gee, I'm sure the original poster really appreciated your _INCREDIBLY_ 
helpful reply.  Don't waste bandwidth with such elitist bullshit.  

Andy

"Better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open your mouth and 
remove all doubt."



-----------------------------------------------------------------------
"I didn't do it to make history.  You do something that you want to 
do or feel you have to do, because you like it and love it.  And if 
it turns out to be history, well, so what?"

			--Carroll Shelby, from "The Cobra-Ferrari Wars, 1963-1965"


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sarangan@nabla.uwaterloo.ca (Andrew Sarangan)
Subject: Suspension Question
Reply-To: sarangan@nabla.uwaterloo.ca (Andrew Sarangan)
Organization: University of Waterloo, Waterloo Ont.
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 20:11:26 GMT


The rear wheels of my '82 Tercel have the springs and shocks physically 
separate, so replacement is quite easy.  The front wheels have the shocks 
running through the springs and the whole unit held together by a mechanism. 
I understand this type of suspension is called the McPherson struts (correct 
me if I'm wrong).

Now my question is:

What is a strut ? 

How do I remove the front shocks when the spring is compressed under
high tension ? 

Thanks for your time.


Andrew
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mikes@tellabs.com (Michael D. Schwartz)
Subject: Re: Ford Probe GT specs & questions
Organization: Tellabs, Inc., IL
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 23:08:30 GMT

In article <nataraja.716126277@lead5> nataraja@rtsg.mot.com (Kumaravel Natarajan) writes:
>>  1)  I've got a 1992 GT with the 2.2L 4cyl turbo engine.  All the ratings
>>      I've seen give it around 145 hp.  Is this accurate?  My roommate 
>>      thinks it should be closer to 180 or so after being in it.

The last time I looked, I though that the horsepower was being quoted at
4500 rpm or so (it looked fishy to me, that's why I remember it). That seems
like an unusually low rpm for the power peak on a 4-banger.

Most of the car rags thought it drove more like ~175 peak hp.
-- 
-

------------------------------------------------------------------
Mike Schwartz     **    "What a waste it is to lose one's mind,
Tellabs, Inc.     **     or not to have a mind at all as being
Lisle, IL         **     very wasteful."
------------------------------------------------------------------
I'm not sure whose opinions these are.
From: spt@acsu.buffalo.edu (Scott P. Toenniessen)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: overheating
Date: 9 Sep 92 14:34:10 GMT
Organization: UB

Try pulling one of the heater core hoses to bleed the core.  This is
what I usually have to do when I refill coolant.  I've never seen a
bleeder valve as some have mentioned on any car/truck I've worked on.

                           Scott
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: orr@epcot.spdc.ti.com (Ken Orr)
Subject: Re: Aftermarket turbo kits
Organization: TI Semiconductor Process and Design Center
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 23:59:36 GMT

In article <5630167@hplsla.hp.com> genet@hplsla.hp.com (Gene Taylor) writes:
>>In article tafrakes@athena.mit.edu (T. Andy Frakes) writes:
>>|> Can someone give me some info on aftermarket turbo kits?  I'm mainly
>>|> looking for the following info:
>>|> 
>>|> 1)  Where to get them.  Approx. cost w/ and w/o installation.
>>|> 
>>|> 2)  How well they function (much difference from factory installed?)
>>|> 
>>|> 3)  Ease of installation (how much is involved)
>>|> 
>>|> 
>>|> I'm thinking of adding a turbo to a '92 Eclipse (1.8L).  Any other
>>|> suggestions would also be appreciated.
>>|> 
>>|> -Andy
>>
>>Why don't you just trade your car in on one with the factory turbo?
>>You'll save yourself a lot of time, money, & headaches in the long run,
>>and you'll have a car you can take to a competent mechanic for 
>>maintenance.  You'll also have better resale value.
>>----------
>
>I second this motion.  I've tried to convert vehicles from what I had
>into what I thought I wanted and it was always 10 times the effort and
>money that I expected and it never turned out exactly the way it was
>planned.  In all cases, it would have been cheaper to buy it than
>convert it.
>
>Are you ready to go through the entire engine?  You know the turbo is
>going to add horsepower.  Are your pistons, rods, and crank designed
>to handle the extra power?  What about the transmission and the rest
>of the drive train?  Extra power means extra heat; is the cooling 
>system designed to handle it?
>
>You can't just bolt power goodies like this on an engine unless it
>was desinged for it or unless you don't care if you blow it up.
>
>my $.02
>-Gene

     I have to agree with the above. The Diamond Star turbos are alot different
under the hood than the 1.8L versions. They have intercooled turbos, twin cams,
4 valve per cly. etc. If you want to upgrade I'd buy a turbo model. Are you on
the Diamond Star mailing list ?? 

     "86 Ninja 600R"                               K.O.
  "DOD #306 AMA #615088"                       T.I. Dallas Tx.
    "Eclipse GS Turbo"                      Orr@epcot.spdc.ti.com
From: Steve.Kaess@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Steve Kaess)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Power Locks
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 1992 13:36:42 -0500

 >
 > Here's a strange one that started just a few days ago:
 >
 > I have an '85 S-10 Blazer w/ power locks.  The passenger
 > door lock
 > cannot be unlocked using power central locking. I can power
 > lock the
 > door with no problem. The driver side door is OK both ways.
the actuator is getting kinda beat...ya might be able to get it going 
again by taking the door apart, cleaning and lubing the actuator, 
and the door lock rods bushings etc...
good luck
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Snow Tires
From: cvetp034@vmsb.is.csupomona.edu (Mike Cancellier)
Date: 9 Sep 92 16:45:45 PST
Organization: Cal Poly Pomona Geography Dept.
Nntp-Posting-User: cvetp034

I am moving to North Dakota next year and need some recommendations on snow
tires.  I have lived in Southern California all my life and have no idea about
conditions there in the winter. Please email responses
Thanks in advance,

Mike
-- 
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------*
| Mike Cancellier, Lt, USAF          ICBM Net: 34 06 24 N 117 48 21 W         |
| CVETP034@CSUPomona.edu                               or                     |
| Cal Poly Pomona Geography Dept.              47 55 31 N  97 01 57 W         |
| Technical Specialist                   (Reply in 30 minutes, guaranteed!)   |
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------*
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: Gassoline smell in Oil
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 92 10:26:07 GMT

Dwight D. Brantley (brantley@infonode.ingr.com) wrote:
: In article <183480@pyramid.pyramid.com> aahsan@pyramid.COM (Agha Ahsan) writes:
: >
: >	When I changed the oil in my '84 SAAB 900 T last month
: >	I noticed that the old oil had a little smell of gasoline
: >	in it and also looked to be very thin.
: >	What can be causing this. I have not had starting problems
: >	so I have not been cranking the engine.
: >
: 
: Carburator is way too rich.  Most likely needs a rebuild.

SAABs have been fuel injected since 1973.

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.
hinzd@picard.med.ge.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bpita@ctp.com (Bob Pitas)
Subject: Re: 12 point bolt heads on Ford
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 16:10:37 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Cambridge Technology Partners

In article <1992Aug28.144245.1@bronco.fnal.gov> colombo@bronco.fnal.gov writes:
>In article <1992Aug28.131937.4122@infonode.ingr.com>, brantley@infonode.ingr.com (Dwight D. Brantley) writes:
>> 
>> What kind of tool is used on what appears to be a 12-point bolt head?
>> I ran into this on my 83' Mustang while trying to remove the drive shaft
>> so that I can replace the clutch.  These are the 4 bolts which connect the 
>> drive shaft and universal joints to the differential drive flange.  The
>> bolts resemble an inside-out Torx configuration except that they have
>> 12 points instead of six.  I thought that a 12-point socket might do the
>> trick, but it seems that this would require a 15/32, 12-point socket which
>> I have not been able to find.  The Ford dealer was absolutly no help either.
>> They said "Yep, takes a special tool.  Don't know what you call it or where
>> you could get one though".  Any clues on this would be greatly appreciated.
>> My Mustang aint goin nowhere till I solve this!
>> 
>
>Yup, 12-point 5/32 sounds about right, nothing special about it though.
>I got a 12-point 9 piece socket set in 1/32 increments at an auto swap
>meet for $11.  I believe you can get box-end wrenches in 12-point too.
>
> ___________________________________________________________________________
> *****  *   *  From the e-net desk of: Rick Colombo CD/DCD/DSG    *    *
> *      **  *  Fermi Nat'l Acc'l Lab   708-840-8225 Fermilab     * *   *
> ***    * * *  P.O. Box 500   MS 369   Feynman Computer Center  *****  *
> *      *  **  Batavia, Ill. USA 60510 Colombo@fnal.fnal.gov    *   *  *****
> *  Sure to get `Flamed' if I didn't cross all my i's and dot all my t's ;-)

It's 12mm...
Ford went metric right around that time.  The tranny bolts and bell-housing
bolts will all be metric too.  Try 15mm for the tranny and 17mm for the
BH...
(Gee, I wonder if I change alot of trannies/clutches...)

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
        ___          
       / _ \                 '85 Mustang GT                        Bob Pitas
      /    /USH              14.13 @ 99.8                      bpita@ctp.com
     / /| \                  Up at NED, Epping, NH           (Cambridge, MA)

"If you go fast enough, driving in traffic is like driving in a parking lot"
Disclaimer: These opinions are mine, obviously, since they end with my .sig!
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rick@posms.cactus.org (Rick Kirchhof)
Subject: Re: EGR and EVP on Mercury Grand Marquis
Organization: Department of Redundancy Dept., Austin
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1992 01:38:05 GMT

In article <1992Sep15.182940.9005@tandem.com> norcott_bill@tandem.com  (Bill Norcott) writes:
>In article <1992Sep15.131348.17021@cactus.org>, ninke@cactus.org (Don A. Ninke) writes:
>|> I have a 1985 Mercury Grand Marquis with the 5.0L engine.
>
><lots of stuff deleted>
>|>    1. What does EVP stand for?  Maybe "EGR Valve Position" sensor?
>|>    2. What role does the EVP perform?
>|>    3. Is the EVP a passive device, like a variable resistor?
>
>
>The EVP is the EGR valve position sensor.  It is a white plastic
>cap which sits on top the EGR.  The EVP contains a spring loaded
>plunger that presses against the EGR diaphragm.  The EGR is a 
>switch not a resistor.  Depending on how far the plunger is compressed
>it will touch one of the contacts spaced along the body of the EGR.
>I can't rememver if there is just one contact for wide open or maybe
>another one for partway open.  The signal from the EVP is fed back
>into the EEC-IV computer as one of its inputs.
>-- 
>---------------------------------------------------------------------|
>Bill Norcott			GUARDIAN POSIX project
>Tandem Computers, Inc.		
>10600 N. Tantau Avenue		PHONE:  (408) 285-3253
>Cupertino, CA   95014		EMAIL: norcott_bill@tandem.com
>
The EVP sensor is a simple potentiometer that uses 5.0 volt v-ref from
the control computer and system ground from same source to create a EGR
valve position signal for use by the computer.  Closed, the EVP puts out
about 0.6 volts and wide open, somewhat over 3.5 volts.

This part is known for failing at extended age or mileage due the extreme
heat it must live with on the EGR valve.  There are even problems with
new EGR and EVP's setting a trouble code.  This can happen with two new Ford
factory parts when you install them and the run the engine self test.  It
is sometimes necessary to grind a small amount from the end of the EVP
sensor contact rod to lower the voltage.  It is good practice to replace
both parts together.

The most conclusive way to test a potentiometer is to watch it's output
wire on a scope for a gradual sweep from low to high voltage as you move 
the valve manually or with vacuum. 



-- 
Rick Kirchhof   Austin, Texas                   | Experience is what you
Domain: rick@posms.cactus.org                   | get when you don't
Bang path: ...!cs.utexas.edu!peyote!posms!rick  | get what you want.            
===========================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: klui@corp.hp.com (Kenneth K.F. Lui)
Subject: Re: California legal stuff...
Organization: Hewlett-Packard
Distribution: ca
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1992 18:36:28 GMT

In article <fmlin.1dku@terapin.com> fmlin@terapin.com (Frank M. Lin) writes:
>How does the law work in California?  I mean, can you do whatever you want to
>your car as long as it can pass the smog test?  If so, is it possible to buy a
>V-TEC ( Honda Civics ) engine from Japan, and install it?
>
But who will fix it if it breaks down?  You'll need to check with
your mechanic to see if you can get it repaired if something goes
wrong with it.

>I have a 1992 Infiniti G20.  I beleive the engine is same as the Nissan Sentra
>SEi ( whatever, the highest one... ).  Stock engine is rated at 140hp.  I am
>thinking about getting a new high volume air filer ( K&N or something... ), and
>exhaust ( Borla, ANSA, HKS... which is better? ).  How much performace increase
>can be expected?
>
Most performance specialists recommend working from the outside
towards the engine.  Engine modifications should be the last
thing done to increase performance.  Go to a reputable
aftermarket shop and ask them.

You might want to note that the California Air Resources Board
(CARB) is what sets the rules in this state regarding aftermarket
auto performance parts and new regulations are in place that will
hold the owners responsible for the car's emission--he'll get
fines.  Not only that, only parts that have been exempted by CARB
are considered CA legal and you can no longer expect to get away
with installing a part marked "Not legal for sale or use in the
State of California on any pollution controlled motor vehicles"
yourself (the old loophole) even though it meets emissions.  The
key is "exempted" and words like "approved" or "certified" are
not acceptable.  Prepare to weigh the consequences when it comes
time to smog-check your vehicle.

The good news is a lot of companies are making CARB exempted
parts that will increase performance.  There's a twin turbo Z
whose sole modifications were the inclusion of a Borla exhaust 
system, a new air intake box, a K&N element, and a new computer
program.  Total horsepower went from 300 to 396.  I'm not sure if
the Borla exhaust system is CARB exempted (it should be), but the
computer is.  Installation was a few hours.  So, here's a clear
case of mods being 50-state street legal--you have your cake and
eat it, too.  But, "your mileage may vary."

>Thanx.
>
>frank m. lin
>fmlin@terapin.com
>cyprus systems


Good luck,
Ken
p.s. the above opinions are my own and neither Hewlett-Packard
Company nor myself endorse the companies mentioned herein.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Modifying the 'Original' Monster Truck
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 4 Sep 92 18:49:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * Jacksonville AR USA * 501-985-0059


-> >My friend owns one of the 'original' monster trucks.  That's
-> right... >It's a 1984 4WD AMC Eagle station wagon.

> Your friend?
...
> Come on, you can admit it here. We know that that truck is yours! :-)

 Think of this:  Ferguson system all wheel drive, 401 AMC V8 with Gale
Banks twin turbos, lowered, Guldstrand or Adams prepped suspension,
shaved R1s on Center Line wheels, backfitted Bosch ABS, tasteful black
polyurethane paint.

 That's 6.6 liters, from which we could get an entirely reasonable
600bhp in street trim, and still have room in the back to haul vast
amounts of beer.


 Of course, some people here have announced they don't believe in
modifying automobiles...
                           
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: koziarzw@lonex.rl.af.mil (Walter Koziarz)
Subject: Re: Aftermarket turbo kits
Organization: RL
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 92 15:18:49 GMT

In article <BuC218.5oz@cup.hp.com> dhepner@cup.hp.com (Dan Hepner) writes:
>From: serafin@epcot.spdc.ti.com (Mike Serafin)

>>>>Why don't you just trade your car in on one with the factory turbo?

>>>I second this motion.

>>Ok, but where do I find a factory built turbocharged F250 4x4, 460ci, 5sp,
>>pickup?

>Buy a Dodge.

>Dan Hepner

But Dan, he sounds like he *wants* to feed a 460cid gas-pig (and pollute
the environment with CO, unburned hydrocarbons, sulfer dioxide, etc) rather
than operate a clean-burning turbocharged Diesel (which spews negligable
quantities of the above-mentioned pollutants, only significant pollutant
is oxides of nitrogen).  Besides, the Dodge with Cummins power will out-pull,
out-power and outlive the 460 while delivering twice the economy... that's
too much for gas-pigger to comprehend ;-) 

Walt K., the man that finished in the middle of the pack at the truck-pulls
using a *STOCK* Dodge W350 in *SUPER MODIFIED, UNLIMITED* class... there's
several folks that want to crawl into a hole and hide after having-been bettered
by a *STOCKER*!!  So I do know where-of I speak regarding the incredible
pulling-power of the Dodge!
From: hallt@CS.ColoState.EDU (Tim C. Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Need fuse block layout for '87 Mazda 626
Summary: No manual, need layout
Keywords: Mazda, fuse block, HELP
Date: 11 Sep 92 18:08:12 GMT
Followup-To: hallt@cs.colostate.edu
Distribution: na
Organization: Colorado State University, Computer Science Department


A friend of mine has a 1987 Mazda 626 two-door.  This auto is experiencing
erratic loss of the turn signals, tachometer, and fuel & oil gauges.  
They'll be dead for a day or two then suddenly come back.  We suspect a
bad fuse or a loose wire on the fuse block, but have no idea which one to
look at since we have no manual.

We've already reseated all the fuses and looked for obvious loose wires.
If some kind soul can tell me exactly which electric components of this auto
are on which fuses and the proper fuse ratings, I would be eternally
grateful.  Please respond via e-mail.  My e-mail address is 
hallt@cs.colostate.edu.  Thanks in advance.

Tim C. Hall
hallt@cs.colostate.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Good books to learn auto mechanics?
From: james@koko.csustan.edu (Jonas Grumpy)
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 92 03:35:15 GMT
Organization: CSU Stanislaus

In article <1992Sep11.201020.3113@midway.uchicago.edu> epc1@midway.uchicago.edu writes:
>
>If I were to recommend THE authoratative book on C shell scripts, I 
>would recommend The C Shell Fild Guide;  on C programming language, 
>K & R's The C Programming Language;  on motif programming, Heller's
>Motif programming Guide; on investments, Graham's The Intelligent
>Investor....
>
>
>What is/are THE authoritative book/s on automobile mechanics.  I would
>like to learn both theory and practical instruction.  My goal
>is to be better than 80% of the auto mechanics.  How do auto mechanics
>learn their trade?  (besides hands-on experience).
>
>Any help would be appreciated.
>Thanks.
>
>-- 
>En Pum Cho					
>University of Chicago Class of 1994
>math & economics major
>epc1@midway.uchicago.edu


You wanna be an auto mechanic?? I hope your five years old. Because that
is the best age to start learning. You have to be raised an auto mechanic.
There is no book(s) thacan n teach you mechanics. If you want to be
better than 80% of the mechanics out their. You had better be prepared
to give up your current lifestyle and become an apprentice at joes corner
gastation. Being a mechanic is more tn changing your brakes or installing
a rebuilt water pump.
-- 
28940375892743587293475982734985723984 bottles of beer on the wall
28940375892743587293475982734985723984 bottles of beer..
take one down, pass it around
28940375892743587293475982734985723983 bottles of beer on the wall......>>>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech