HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: cfeem@ux1.cts.eiu.edu (Eleanor Midkiff)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: Sewing Machine Recommendations
Summary: Prices vary
Keywords: Need a sewing machine
Date: 4 Sep 92 19:32:34 GMT
Expires: ?
Followup-To: net
Organization: Eastern Illinois University

In article <23161@hacgate.SCG.HAC.COM> koo@tcville.UUCP (Frances Koo) writes:

>>Hi,  My wife is looking into buying another sewing machine,
> [stuff deleted]
>>what might she be able to get for her Singer either on the open market or
>>from a trade in?
>
>  There is a Blue Book for sewing machines.  I think some store owners
>  refer to this for trade-ins.
>  
  The trade-in value will vary, however, depending on the price of the
machine you are trading for.  A very honest dealer just told me that
my circa 1979 next-to-top Viking could be worth anywhere from $100 to 
$300 in trade, depending on how many thousands I decided to invest
in a new one.  I decided to keep it...;-)

Eleanor
>  Frances (koo@tcville.hac.com)


-- 
Eleanor Midkiff
(cfeem@eiu.edu)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: banderso@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Betty Lise Anderson)
Subject: Re: confessions & request for help/advice/solace
Organization: The Ohio State University
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 01:33:08 GMT


Oh, I can't beleive this stupid program didn't include the original article!
@#$*&#^ I hate stupid computers.

But I love sewing, and the question was how to deal with rayon that's so slidy
that it's impossible to cut out. I had that problem, and the net gave me lots
of tips, like use a rotary cutter, and don't pin the pieces down, weight them
with fabric weights (read: tuna fish cans)

But also, my best advice is to do something like this on the floor, preferably
in a carpeted room, and I pin the fabric TO the carpet (perpendicular pins)
all around the edges to keep it from moving and to keep the grains straight. 
Then
I pin the peices, unless I'm following the advice about the rotary cutter.
Tip:
Don't use the roatry cutter on the carpet! :-)

I also find those carboard pattern cutting boards really useful for this. It's
easy to pull the grain straight because the fabric slides along it eaily
(yes, this is also a detriment).
Newsgroups: alt.sewing,alt.fashion
From: kparker%asylum.cs.utah.edu@cs.utah.edu (Kenneth Parker)
Subject: Re: Sewing / Sealing Heavy Soft Clear Plastic (Glue ???)
Date: 4 Sep 92 14:26:21 MDT
Organization: University of Utah CS Dept

Mark Allyn writes:

> I am trying to make clothes out of heavy soft clear plastic; you
> know, the kind of clear vynal that is used for shower curtains and
> so fourth. I am really trying to make clear raincoats therefore
> whatever I do must be watertight or nearly so.

When I worked in a machine shop I saw a glue that worked well.  The
right type of will work magic, the wrong type will not only fail to
hold but will ruin the material ... Unfortunately, I can't remember
which glues work or were to get them ...

Ken
From: bea@sybase.com (Bea Deering)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: confessions & request for help/advice/solace
Date: 1 Sep 92 19:23:35 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Sybase, Inc.

In article <36837@uflorida.cis.ufl.edu> george@webb.psych.ufl.edu (Stephanie George) writes:
>
>I still intended to make pants and so I carefully ironed it, folded it in
>preparation for cutting, matched the plaids and basted the two sides 
>together and cut out 2 leg fronts or backs I don't remember which.  This
>stuff turned into a nightmare!  The fabric was all over the place - slinking
>and slithering off the table (my cat attacking the tissue pattern pieces I
>was trying to pin down didn't help either).

You could cover your table with flannel (buy a 3-yard piece or whatever
you need) or some other fabric, and secure it by taping it to the underside
of the table. That would keep the rayon from sliding.
--

 Bea Deering              bea%sybase.com
 Sybase, Inc.                  or
 Emeryville, Calif.       {sun,lll-tis,pyramid,pacbell}!sybase!bea
From: birgenom@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (T.B. Shows/ Maureen Sion)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Bleeding RED (clothes)
Date: 3 Sep 92 17:34:00 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41


Thanks for the advice on getting rid of gum in clothes -- it worked!
Now I have another problem.  My daughter has a red and white striped
dress that I love.  Last week I noticed that the white is not so
white anymore  --more like a light gray.  She hasn't worn it that
much but it was starting to look dingy.  The dress is 100% cotton
I decided to try using chlorine bleach (YES the bleach only for whites)  I knew it was dangerous but I figured I wouldn't take her out in a dress 
that looked so dingy.  Then I had another GREAT idea (what a 
mistake) to use hot water to really get it white.  So I washed
all my whites and the white/red dress in hot water with bleach.
Now, I have a pink/red dress. HELP!!!  The dress did say not to
The dress did say to wash in cold water-- but of course I read
that after the fact.  IS there any way to get this dress back
to wearable condition.  I am thinking of soaking it in a bleach
and water solution for a few minutes.  I have not dried the
dress.


Any suggestions would be appreciated!

Maureen
Birgenom@ubvmsb.bitnet
From: szakhour@next.com (Sharon Zakhour)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing,rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Fall classes at Canada
Date: 21 Aug 92 21:54:02 GMT
Reply-To: szakhour@next.com (Sharon Zakhour)
Followup-To: alt.sewing
Distribution: ba

I'm restricting this to the bay area, so I hope it doesn't sneak out.

I should have posted this last week, but I was pretty busy.

Canada College (the BEST home ec department around!) has just started it's Fall  
classes on August 19th (although some still haven't met for the first time  
yet).  I am a very happy sometimes student of Canada -- I particularly  
recommend Art in Clothing, Designer Techniques and Flat Pattern Design from  
this list.  Here is the Fall lineup:

Semester courses:
Beginning Clothing Construction		Tues.  7-10pm
Techniques of Fit			Thurs. 12:10-3pm
Intermediate Clothing Construction	Wed. 7-10pm
Advanced Construction/Tailoring		Wed. 9:10-12noon
Fashion Image and Design		Thurs. 7-10pm
Flat Pattern Design			Tues. 12:10-3pm
Advanced Techniques of Fit		Thurs. 12:10-3pm
Art in Clothing				Thurs. 9:10-12noon
Decorating with Fabric			Mon. 7-10pm
Beginning Sewing Lab			Thurs. 3-5pm
Advanced Sewing Lab			Thurs. 3-5pm (yup, same time)
Nutrition				MWF. 11:10-12noon OR Wed 6:30-9:30
Cooking for Health			Tues. 12:10-3pm


Short courses:
Burda Patterns				Tues. 9:10-12noon  8/25-9/29
Designer Techniques			Tues. 9:10-12noon  10/6-11/10
Sewing for Profit			Tues. 9:10-12noon  11/17-12/15

Saturday courses:
Update on Techniques			Sat. 9-5pm  11/7-11/21
How to plan a Wardrobe			Sat. 9-5pm  10/10 only
Basic Serging				Sat. 9-5pm  9/26-10/3
Sewing Organization			Sat. 9-5pm  9/12-9/19

You may want to call the school regarding registration and whether the classes  
are full (the Saturday classes tend to fill up early).  If you do decide to  
take a class, you should act quickly!!

Classes are $6/unit.  Most classes are from 0.5 to 3 units, so the price is  
right!

Canada College
4200 Farm Hill Blvd  <-- right off of Highway 280
Redwood City, CA  94061

(415) 306-3370  for further info!


Sharon Zakhour
sharon@next.com
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: aatresa@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov (Teresa Kline)
Subject: Hair scrunchies
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: Yeah, *right* !
Date: 27 Aug 1992 10:15 EST  

I've lost my copy of the directions for making hair scrunchies.  Since I've 
*finally* got enough hair to put up, I'd like to make some.  
Could someone who has it either re-post it or e-mail it to me?

Thanks!

-- Teresa

		Life -- just for the FUN of it!!!!
From: gorman@acsu.buffalo.edu (Anne-Marie K. Gorman)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Washing velvet
Date: 2 Sep 92 23:18:09 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: UB


Well, I have just started sewing some baby clothes and am thrilled
at how quickly I get very nice results (I'm making nightgowns, so
fit is not a big issue).

THANK YOU to everyone who gave me advice on sewing knits with a regular
machine, and to Tigger for the addresses of the natural fabric mail-
order places.

So now I'm getting a little more ambitious, and I'm thinking of making 
velvet dresses for Christmas and first birthday (December 15th).  
So-Fro has velvet on sale, but it's marked Dry Clean Only.  I'm not
going to dry clean baby clothes!  Is it possible to wash it?  One of
the velvets is 100% rayon and teh other is 70% acetate/30% nylon.

Thanks!  I love this newsgroup!

Anne-Marie
==============================================================================
Anne-Marie K. Gorman          Sophie and Teresa are 8 months old and almost
Human factors/ergonomics      standing!  Time flies twice as fast when you're
-- 
==============================================================================
Anne-Marie K. Gorman          Sophie and Teresa are 8 months old and almost
Human factors/ergonomics      standing!  Time flies twice as fast when you're
University at Buffalo         having twice as much fun.
From: sallyh@StarConn.com (Sally Holmes)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Great Copy Patterns
Date: 27 Aug 92 21:11:18 GMT
Organization: Starnet-Public Access UNIX--Los Altos, CA  415-949-3133

Well, I made my Great Copy jacket ... eventually...

I used Great Copy #800, the gathered shoulder jacket. There were a few
problems:

1. The method used for gathering the shoulder has to be about the most
   awkward possible.
2. The sleeve bottoms are too tight.
3. The instructions are skimpy, too!
4. The front facing piece is the wrong shape.

The first three problems are inconveniences. The fourth would make it
impossible to complete the jacket sucessfully. If I was not an
experienced sewer, the jacket would now be a cleaning rag :-|

Of course, (picking up the rayon thread) it didn't help that I made it
out of rayon, which frayed whenever I so much as looked at it and
slipped whenever I turned my back :-)

If anyone else is tempted to make this pattern, email me and I'll tell
you how to fix it.

Sally Holmes
sallyh@starconn.com
From: tigger@satyr.Sylvan.COM (Grace Sylvan)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: How is fabric weight determined?
Date: 29 Aug 92 01:39:06 GMT
Distribution: alt
Organization: Sylvan Associates

Well, I got a couple of guesses in my mailbox, and another request to
post the answer. Meantime, I called Hanna Andersson (they list the
weights of their fabrics in their current catalog) and got the answer.

The weight is determined by weighing a 1 yard by 1 yard piece of
fabric.

Thanks to those who bothered to respond.
-- 

Tigger (Grace Sylvan)                Mom of Katherine Yelena, 8/8/89 &
tigger@satyr.sylvan.com              Robin Gregory born 2/28/92

 "It seems to me that our large goal is to find the ways to help our
 children become humane and strong."
 
              - Dr Haim Ginott quoted by Adele Faber & Elaine Mazlish
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: hunt@uadp1.larc.nasa.gov (Linda Hunt)
Subject: Re: Fabriholics Anonymous
Organization: NASA Langley Research Center, Hampton, VA  USA
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 20:15:33 GMT

Like I wrote to some quilting people this morning....

I don't smoke, drink, take drugs, or gamble (well, other than the occasional
state lottery ticket).  I'm entitled to at least one addiction.  There are
worse things than crafts!

Linda
From: szakhour@next.com (Sharon Zakhour)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: sandwashed rayon
Date: 27 Aug 92 17:49:39 GMT
Reply-To: szakhour@next.com (Sharon Zakhour)

In article <9208262017.AA04678@marny.Corp.Sun.COM> Marina.Salume@Corp.Sun.COM  
(Marina Salume) writes:
> >But what caught my eye about this posting was the little pulls that show up
>  >as I am sewing.  I thought 
> >it was the needle
> 
> Has anyone who has tried sewing on sandwashed rayon tried putting
> some type of stabilizer under the seam as you sew? (like a strip
> of paper or something). My machine instruction book says that some
> fine fabrics will actually get pushed down into the hole by the
> needle and that could cause those little "pulls". So I'm wondering if using a
> stabilizer would help. Or maybe spray starch and press the seam allowance
> area before sewing--then you'll have to wash it out of course. 
> 
> --marina

I don't know about Maureen, but this was not the problem in my case.  ANY  
needle piercing the fabric caused these pulls, whether it was on a sewing  
machine or not.  Using fine hand needles minimized the problem.

As for the fabric pulling down into the feeddogs when sewing as Marina  
describes another good solution is to replace the zigzag plate with a straight  
stitch plate.  The straight stitch plate has a smaller hole and the fabric has  
less of a tendency to pull down inside.  This has never been a problem on my  
Bernina however.  (Just be careful not to set the machine to a zigzag stitch  
with this plate on or you'll shatter the needle!)

Sharon Zakhour 
sharon@next.com
Organization: University of Maine System
Date: Thursday, 3 Sep 1992 12:11:46 EDT
From: <SKLYONS@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: re: Sewing in Israel

>from roni.gunn@rose.com

>I'm surprised to hear that you wife is sewing in Israel.  Does
>she use pattern and if so where does she buy them.  I never saw a
>fabric store in all of Israel.

We were in Israel in May.  My mother-in-law is an accomplished
seamstress - there are plenty of sources for sewing necessities.
There is a fabric store around the corner from where she lives
in Ramat Gan.  I saw another fabric store on King George Street
in Tel Aviv.

I asked my husband about this and he said that nearly every small
dress shop also sells fabric, and that most people look there rather
than hunting for fabric stores.

The best place that I saw fabric when we were there was the outdoor
Bedoin market in Beersheba which is weekly all day on Wednesdays.
Vans full of fabric rolls, and tables piled high with a variety of
fabrics to keep almost anyone happy.  Not that I had any extra space
in my luggage :-(.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++
Jeanne Brown
jeanne@portland.maine.edu
bitnet: jeanne@portland
From: Marina.Salume@Corp.Sun.COM (Marina Salume)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: choosing children's patterns
Date: 3 Sep 92 20:31:39 GMT


>How are other people selecting pattern sizes for children's outfits? 

I just make clothes assuming they will be too large and my daughter
can grow into them :-) I made her two dresses last year, they were
too large in the waist (but one has a sash so I can tighten it up). 
At her age, 3 1/2, she doesn't like things that fit too tightly anyway.
I made the size four and they still fit, loosely.

Most of the illustrations on the Burda pattern envelopes look incredibly
baggy, so I assumed they have a LOT of fitting ease in them. I haven't tried
to make any of them, tho. Now I have a lot of Simplicity heirloom dress
patterns I want to try, I hope they fit a bit better. Most little kids have
those round tummies so patterns are cut pretty big in the waist, and my
daughter is quite thin there. So I'll just avoid really fitted styles until
she's older.

--marina
From: scott@Apple.COM (scott douglass)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: I finally got one, so now I'll stop asking all the questions!
Date: 23 Aug 92 18:55:14 GMT
Organization: Apple Computer Inc., Cupertino, CA

Okay, so I really liked the White 734DW.  So my friend and I went up
to Daly city to The Place That Sells Sewing Machines because they had
Whites, Vikings, Elnas, and Jukis all set up.  Now nobody had ever shown
us the 4-thread no-computer Elna -- everyone pushed the 5-thread
computerised one.  But they had it and it was on sale and it felt like
a sturdy machine and it had all the features we were looking for.  So
we tried all the machines, then left.  But we didn't feel like driving
all the way home, so we went across the street for pizza.

They wanted $700 for the Elna, which is what Douglas wanted for the 
White.  So we called Douglas from the pizza place pay phone to find
out what he wanted for the Elna. but he wouldn't give us a price
over the phone.  So we re-read all our articles and postings.  The
threads article really liked the Elna.  My friend said maybe we should
get one White and one Elna.  I said okay, but I get the Elna.

So we went back in and bought two Elna PRO4 DE's.  They threw in some
feet since we were buying two, and thread and videos and unlimited
lessons (the videos are pretty amusing).  First thing when I got home
I broke the lower looper thread, but since then I've been having a
great time with it.  So I gotta go overlock something -- thanks for
the help!

		--  maggie

-- 
				--scott douglass
Any opinions above may be mine and are not necessarily those of Apple Computer.
domain: scott@apple.com  UUCP: {nsc, sun, voder, well, dual}!apple!scott
CSNet: scott@Apple.CSNet  AppleLink: Douglass1
From: szakhour@next.com (Sharon Zakhour)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: Fall classes at Canada
Date: 27 Aug 92 17:15:57 GMT
Reply-To: szakhour@next.com (Sharon Zakhour)
Distribution: ba

This is the sad reality of a public school in a recession. The Canada Home Ec  
department has been a real victim of state budget cuts.  Canada only has one or  
two sergers so people must bring their own.  This makes sense anyway since  
every serger is very different and it's best to become acquainted with your own  
serger.

They did upgrade their sewing machines a couple of years ago.  They now have  
computerized Elnas and such.  But personally, I don't like to sew in class  
anyway.  Most of the classes I take there are lecture classes and if there is  
any sewing to be done, I'd rather do it at home on my Bernina (and my White  
serger) rather than mess around with a machine I'm unfamiliar with.

Sharon

P.S.  It's still the best school around and certainly the cheapest!!!  (The  
serger class you mentioned is two full Saturdays and costs only $6.00!)



In article <1992Aug26.202009.14225@morrow.stanford.edu>  
rabbit@leland.Stanford.EDU (Aleta Hanna) writes:
> I called Canada earlier this month about the beggining serger class.  I
> was told that I should bring my own serger! if I had one.  The whole
> reason for taking the class was to see if I really couldn't live without
> one.  Upon further questioning, it was revealed that there weren't very
> many sewing machines available and if a student doesn't bring her/his
> own, they'll have to share one.  I wasn't too thrilled about sitting
> around on a precious saturday watching someone else sew.
> 
> Aleta
> 
> *************************
> Aleta Hanna
> Maps and Records
> Stanford University
> rabbit@lindy.stanford.edu
> ************************* 
Newsgroups: alt.sewing,rec.crafts.textiles
From: gmclucki@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Gemma McLuckie)
Subject: Re: Shermane Fouche Patterns, address
Organization: The Ohio State University
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 18:55:49 GMT

I called the 800 number Runa gave us a couple of days ago. (Wait! I think it
might have been longer back than that -- I'm in a frenzy getting my house ready
to sell, and as we all know, time flies when you're having fun...)

ANYWAY, I called the number and left a message asking for a catalogue. The next
night the phone rang and to answer it I climbed over a 10-ton pile of trash
that one hour earlier had been treasures stashed away in my basement for nine
years. It was Shermane Fouche, returning my call because -- dear me -- I had
forgotten to mention what state I live in and it's *pretty* darn hard to mail
me a catalogue without that little piece of information.

Shermane was very nice, and she was excited about the fact that we talked about
her patterns on the net -- although she was a *bit* in the dark about just what
a computer network is. She said to thank whoever posted her number and address, 
and she's going to look into finding a way to access the net.

She is sending me a catalogue, along with information about a sewing fair in
Detroit in October that I will post.

Now, if I just like her designs...

Gemma McLuckie
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: msm@cbnews.cb.att.com (melanie.s.maher)
Subject: Re: confessions & request for help/advice/solace
Organization: AT&T
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 15:45:25 GMT
Summary: slippery fabric

In article <1992Sep1.164642.28602@Cadence.COM>, fran@Cadence.COM (Fran Peterson) writes:
> In article <36837@uflorida.cis.ufl.edu> george@webb.psych.ufl.edu (Stephanie George) writes:
> >
> >
> >I still intended to make pants and so I carefully ironed it, folded it in
> >preparation for cutting, matched the plaids and basted the two sides 
> >together and cut out 2 leg fronts or backs I don't remember which.  This
> >stuff turned into a nightmare!  The fabric was all over the place - slinking
> >and slithering off the table (my cat attacking the tissue pattern pieces I
> >was trying to pin down didn't help either).
> 
  I just got the fall catalog of Nancy's Notions -- the one with 25%
  off (now's when I by all those neat gadgets!). There is some sort
  of disposable material which they suggest using with slippery
  fabric, both underneath and in between to keep the fabric from
  sliding. You then cut the pattern pieces out through all layers.
  (I don't have the catalog here or I would give a better
  description.) 
  I often buy lingerie or sleepwear fabric (like Antron nylon, etc)
  in 70 to 102" widths, and the only way I can cut anything out is
  to make sure there is no pull on the fabric. That means nothing
  hanging over the edge of the table and usually in one layer.
  Somebody suggested the carpet, which I use frequently for large
  pieces, like full length nightgowns. It helps to have a low pile
  carpet...I have a Berber-type in my sewing room, which is great
  except that the pins tend to stick in the loops and surprise me
  later when I'm barefoot.
> >Please tell me that I'm not alone.
> >Stephanie
> 
> You are definitely not alone!
> 
Well, I'm here too, so that's at least three of us! :)

Good luck,
Mel

Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: aptp@sscvx1.ssc.gov
Subject: Re: help: buttonholes on a thick coat
Organization: Superconducting Super Collider Laboratory
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 15:56:49 GMT

In article <29950041@otter.hpl.hp.com>, ber@otter.hpl.hp.com (Brenda Romans) writes:
> 
> I am attempting to make a coat out of VERY thick woollen material.  There is no
> pile on it to speak of but it is going to be an interesting job to get it
> through the machine.  Any tips on handling it would be welcome but my main
> concern at the moment is the buttonholes.
>.... more stuff, deleted

Brenda:
   I once made a coat out of very thick melton, and did the buttonholes like
this:  I sewed very sparse machine holes (that is, the zig-zags not too close 
to one another, and the interstice between the two rows of zig-zag wider than
normal).  Then I slit the buttonhole and sewed over the machine stitching
by hand, using silk buttonhole twist and a regular buttonhole stitch.  I think
the machine stitching stabilized the buttonholes and made it easier to sew
the final, more decorative stitching.  The silk has held up fine, and the 
buttonholes look OK.  But I didn't manage a keyhole, which to my mind is
pretty important in a sewn buttonhole in a coat.
   There are places that will make keyhole buttonholes for you for a reasonable
fee and the thread.  I've never tried one, but know people who swear by the
service.  Maybe you can find one in your area.
                                   Cheers,   Andrea
   
Newsgroups: alt.sewing