HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: accwai@math.uwaterloo.ca (Andy Wai)
Subject: Re: Reliable Strobe System (Speedotron,DynaLite, etc) ?
Organization: Math Faculty Computing Facility, University of Waterloo
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 09:39:56 GMT

In article <5794@npg-sd.SanDiegoCA.NCR.COM> burke@npg-sd.SanDiegoCA.NCR.COM (Michael Burke) writes:
>In article <1dp4s0INN1vo@sixgun.East.Sun.COM> marc@.East.Sun.COM (Marc
>Thompson-Sun-Vienna VA-Systems Engineer) writes:
>>
>>I am looking at purchasing a strobe system for a home studio. My main
>>interest is fashion
>[...]
>You can never have enough watt-seconds, or fast enough recycle times.  

Unfortunately, the higher the Ws, the longer the recycle time.  The
fastest recycling packs on the market right now can do around 1200 to
1600Ws per second.

>The more power you use from a pack, the longer the duration of the flash -- 
>this can get down into the shutter speed range where motion will blur.

Yes, but you can shorten the flash duration significantly by discharging
more than one tube from the same pack.  That's one of the main uses of
bi-tube or quad heads.  If even that's not enough, the Elinchrom R series
monoblocks are designed specifically for ultra short flash duration.  If
I remember it correctly, the t0.5 time for the 500R is something like
1/4000 sec at full power.

>Shooting through softboxes or umbrellas eats up light.  

On the other hand, softbox and diffuser umbrella can be placed almost
right up against the subject.  That compensates for the light loss
somewhat.  If you have the bucks, there're also large rigid reflectors
like the Mola Euro.  Besides the special quality of light they give,
they're also much more efficient than the normal softbox or umbrella.

>[...]  A couple thousand watt-seconds gets used up
>fast even in a small studio if you want any kind of DOF, especially if your
>subject isn't sitting still...

A couple thousand Ws sounds awfully high for fashion/portrait.  What
kind of camera and film do you normally use?

Andy Wai
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: tjwu@athena.mit.edu (Thomas J Wu)
Subject: Re: Wide angle lenses, cost/performance question (+Tamron 28-200)
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 22:25:52 GMT

In article <thos.721263690@suite.sw.oz.au> thos@suite.sw.oz.au (Thomas Cohen) writes:

>  I want to get a 24mm lens - 2nd hand Nikkor lenses are about $5/600
>  (remember I'm in Australia) and a new Sigma lens is $170. The question
>  I have is that while I'm sure the Nikkor is better built and probably
>  has better optics, how much real difference is there?

I have a Sigma 24mm f/2.8 for my Canon EOS Elan, and I've been quite
satisfied with it.  It is very distortion-free and sharp.  The only
problem is that it has some curvature of field.  If an object at infinity
is in focus in the corner, the center is focused about 6 feet away.
This isn't usually a problem, though.  It's great for closeup work
and gives up to 1:4 magnification.  At $170 or so, it's a great bargain.

>
>  thanks andregards,
>  -- 
>  thos cohen  				       |Softway Pty Ltd
>  "It's not so bad to be a lair but a conniving  |ACSnet:         thos@softway.oz
>   egomaniac is not really that socially accept- |UUCP: ...!uunet!softway.oz!thos
>   able."  SMH, 2 Nov 92, P. Keating vs J. Hewson|Internet:    thos@softway.oz.au

Thomas Wu
Internet:  tjwu@athena.mit.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: rla@netcom.com (Robert Armstrong)
Subject: Pentax 110 motor drive battery door needed !
Followup-To: rla@netcom.com
Keywords: Pentax
Reply-To: rla@netcom.com
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 18:58:52 GMT

  I recently bought a Pentax Auto 110 set, and the battery compartment
door for the motor drive is broken.  The motor drive actually works
fine, but you have to hold the batteries in!

  Does anyone have a junk motor drive that they'd like to sell ?
Or maybe a spare door ?  Or know where I can buy one ?

  BTW, I'd like to thank all the people who responded to by previous
posting about this camera.  I'm glad I bought one - it's a lot of
fun.

Thanks,
Bob Armstrong
rla@netcom.com
From: ujjs@pool.sunyit.edu (Jamie Schmidt)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Info wanted on Nikon N90 vs. Minolta 9xi--what to buy...
Date: 12 Nov 92 23:23:40 GMT
Organization: State University of New York -- Institute of Technology

Hi,

	I would like to ask for a comparision between the Nikon N90 and the 
Minolta 9xi 35mm cameras.  I am looking at buying one or the other and would
appreciate finding out peoples opinions on both of them.  They both seem 
loaded with features, but, I am wondering which one is actually the better 
camera.  Any help that you could provide would be appreciated.  Also, if you 
know of good (and inexpensive) mailorder places to purchase them.  One final
question--why do some companies specify in their advertisements that the
cameras come with USA warranties?  I thought that all new products did...

	This is actually going to be for my girlfriend, so I would like to
get her the best one that I could.  She is graduating with a degree in 
photography in December, so this would make an excellent gift for her.  She
has expressed interest in both models (and the Nikon F4--ouch!!!), and now
it seems up to me to decide.....


			      Please e-mail or respond here.....
			      Jamie Schmidt
			      ujjs@sunyit.edu

-- 
					Jamie Schmidt
					137 Residential Drive
					Utica, Ny 13502
					(315)-734-4111
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: lgorbet@carina.unm.edu (Larry P Gorbet ANTHROPOLOGY)
Subject: Re: Comment on Beattie's Intenscreen?
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 92 14:54:39 GMT
Organization: University of New Mexico, Albuquerque

In article <BxJI2M.4t4@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu> shendry@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Slamet Hendry) writes:
>Can anybody who has ever used Intenscreen post a comment or two please.

I have used an Intenscreen for several years now on an Olympus OM-4T.  Use it 
mainly for a 500mm/f8 mirror lens and a 400mm/f5.6.  The version I have is a
plain groundglass with a fine circle which marks the spotmetering area.  It
is *MUCH* easier to focus than the split-image-cum-doohickeys finder that
is standard on the camera, and in the bargain the focussing stuff is less
obtrusive.  I thought when I got it that I would switch it out when I
wasn't using the longer lenses, but I have found that I prefer it even with
the f/2.8 27-70mm zoom that I also use.  It does not appear to affect 
metering, at least for actual exposures (my recollection is that on my
camera, the metering is off the film with sensors located behind the mirror).

Certainly worth the price to me -- literally, since I'm sure I have 
salvaged the cost in saved shots due to better and faster focussing...

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: klein@nadia.stgt.sub.org (Alexander Klein)
Subject: 3D-MAGAZIN
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 20:27:22 GMT
Organization: Stuttgart Net Systems, FRG


In early 1992, a new 3D-magazine was born in Germany. Our magazine (48 pages,
published quarterly, format 21 x 28cm, partly in four colors) is the first
club-independent magazine in the world dealing uniquely with all aspects of
the three-dimensional image. We publish articles about the history of stereo-
scopy, physiology and psychology of vision, scientific applications, articles
about holography, book reviews tests of stereo equipment and other news.
Our readers are amateurs as well as professionals - generally in Germany,
Switzerland and Austria.

The next issue, being published later this year, will feature an extensive
report about Virtual Reality - and of course a deatiled Photokina report.

Annual subscriptions are currently DM 52 withing Germany and DM 62 inter-
national (Sea Mail). Air Mail subscription rates are available on request,
US-$ checks are being accepted. For more information about rates and sub-
scriptions, please address yourself directly to the publisher:

     Bode Verlag GmbH
     Duernberg 2
     W-4358 Haltern 4
     Germany
     Phone +49(2364)16107
     Fax +49(2364)169273

-- 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Alexander Klein | Editor, 3D-MAGAZIN     E-Mail: klein@nadia.stgt.sub.org |
|   ___   ____    | Tannenbergstrasse 36   CompuServe/CIS-Mail: 100041,212  |
|  /   \   |  \   | D-7000 Stuttgart 50    GEnie: A.KLEIN9                  |
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: llemmerm@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Lloyd Lemmermann)
Subject: wooden tripods
Organization: The Ohio State University
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 21:22:20 GMT

I'm about to replace a recently-stolen Bogen tripod, and I'm considering wood.
I am familiar with brands and the positive attributes of wooden 'pods, but I'd 
also like to know about the pitfalls that some of you users have discovered 
through everyday use. Especially those pitfalls that would cause you to 
recommend against one.
My cameras include medium format and large format field cameras (4x5), used 
both indoors and out.
E-mail if you like, but this may make for interesting reading on the net.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: ray@anaconda.cis.ohio-state.edu (william c ray)
Subject: Re: Reliable Strobe System (Speedotron,DynaLite, etc) ?
Organization: The Ohio State University Dept. of Computer and Info. Science
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 14:35:46 GMT

Speaking of reliable strobe systems, I'm looking for a 
suggestion or two on something that would be bomb-proof,
high output, battery powered, (and cheap?)...

I do cave photography, and I need a system capable of 
producing _lots_ of light. GN 160 (ASA 100) is about the
minimum that's worth thinking about.  Currently I use
a Sunpack 611, a Rollie potatoe masher, Graphlex Stroboflash IV,
sunpac 511, and a handful of honeywell strobonars.  This isn't
enough.  To light the average room/passage I'm firing 8 pops
each off the big sunpack and rollie, and a half-dozen or so
from the strobonars (they've all degenerated to about gn 84 or
so from what I can tell, so they only do spot highlighting).

What I'd like to tote would be 2 or 3 battery powered units
which would get at least GN220/ASA100.  I don't really care
about efficiency, or long recycle times, or proportional 
modeling lights, or any of the other normal gizmos that 
I presume drive prices up on the normal line of high-power
portable strobes.  Unfortunately no-one seems to advertize
"slow as hell, battery gobbling monster output tank flash"
units in shutterbug... Any other suggestions?

Will Ray

(yes, I've tried bulbs... not bad, but (a) expensive... I can use
3 1s or 2s, or a half dozen M3s or M5s in one shot... bracket, and
one trip costs as much as a new sunpack 622...)
From: collier@atlas.titan-abq.com (Michael Collier)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: wanted RZ67
Date: 5 Nov 92 20:16:00 GMT
Reply-To: collier@atlas.titan-abq.com (Michael Collier)
Organization: University of New Mexico, Albuquerque NM

In article <1992Nov4.185608.2765@novell.com>, pkruse@db (Phil Kruse) writes:
|>lokking fo an RZ67, would like one with a w/l view finder and a 220 back
|>I have been pricing a new one and would like to shave the cost a bit.
|>please reply to pkruse@sjf.novell.com
|>
  
i have a few items. send me a valid mail address.
  
Michael H. Collier        INET: collier@ariel.unm.edu   BITNET: COLLIER@UNMB
UNM CIRT, 2701 Campus Bvd; Albuquerque, NM 87131; (505) 277 8039
"Incedentally, Karl Marx was a Marxist" -- Mark Russel
"Pardon me boys, are you the cats who shot Ceaucescu?" -- Mark Russel
From: bongers@gto400.asd.sgi.com (Hans L. Bongers)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: YASHIKA LYNX-1000 (Anybody had experience with it?)
Date: 9 Nov 92 21:00:35 GMT
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc., Mountain View, CA, USA

In article <CMM.0.90.2.721328442.chribrud@gyda.ifi.uio.no>, chribrud@ifi.uio.no (Christian Brudevoll) writes:
|> I have got a YASHIKA LYNX-1000, and wonders if anybody 
|> have had any experience with it.
|> It has a 4.5cm F1.8 objective with central shutter, hence
|> blitz-synchronization on all times from B,1 to 1/1000s.
|> The shutter goes a little too fast on 1s, about 0.9s.
|> 
|> Will it be simple to adjust the shutter?
|> 
|> How to test the shutter on higher speeds?
|> 
|> The light-meter is to little sensitive. Set to 800 asa,
|> which is maximum, it's like about 125 asa on my SLR's.
|> 
|> Is it hard to adjust such light-meter?
|> (Might it be the battery? - what battery?)
|> 
|> 
|> 
|> 			    	Christian Brudevoll
|>                                 University of Oslo
|>                                 Norway


Christian ---

A shutter can be tested using a photodiode tied to a counter/timer.
I am not familiar with the camera/lens combination given but I doubt
that "adjusting" the shutter speed is a viable option (cost or complexity
will grab you).  If the shutter is accurate at 1/2 second and you are already
on a tripod (at 1sec, I hope you are) then double-exposure at 1/2 sec will
yield a net of 1 second.

Otherwise, if the aperature is continuously variable, open it up a little to
compensate for the expected 10% underexposure caused by the fast shutter.

--- hans
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: yz3k@galen.med.virginia.edu
Subject: Re: Multiple exposure with Nikon N6006
Organization: University of Virginia
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1992 02:09:28 GMT

In article <101860@bu.edu> dtang@bass.bu.edu writes:
> I wonder if any of you who own a Nikon N6006 can tell me how to
> take multiple exposures.  So far, after reading manuals over and over 
> again, I still can not find an answer.
> 
> DMT
It doesn't have a multiple exposure feature. At least not one designed into the  
camera.
yz
From: rah@public.BTR.COM (Richard A Hyde  rah@btr.com)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Flashing "ISO" in Elan
Date: 10 Nov 92 03:30:42 GMT
Article-I.D.: public.8289
Organization: BTR Public Access UNIX, MtnView CA. For info contact: info@BTR.COM

In article <1992Nov9.195228.10168@research.nj.nec.com> arif@ccrl.nj.nec.com (Arif Merchant) writes:
|I recently tried setting the ISO manually on my Elan (using non-DX
|coded film). Following the manual, I turned the dial to ISO, set it,
|and turned the dial back to the "Green" mode. However, the "ISO" in
|the LCD display keeps blinking. Does this indicate a problem? Any
|information would be appreciated.
|

The "ISO" indicator will flash whenever you have film loaded that is
not DX coded.  This is true even if you have correctly set the DX for
that film.  The Elan will also assume that it is a 36 exposure roll.



-- 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
|   Richard Hyde  |  RaH@btr.com  |    This space intentionally left blank   |
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Robert_N_Brauer@cup.portal.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Starting a bathtub darkroom
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 92 18:52:20 PST
Organization: The Portal System (TM)
Distribution: na
  <1992Nov3.145407.5875@b30.ingr.com> <1992Nov5.230605.1@cc.curtin.edu.au>

Hi,
Concerning the attempt to build a darkroom in a bathroom:
     Why limit yourself to the bathroom?
I've setup darkrooms in several apartments over the years and I am
now convinced that there is no way to setup your equipment in a
bathroom without resorting to uncomfortable contortions to use it.
 
The bathroom is needed for mixing chemicals, washing operations, and
hanging things to drip and dry. Everything else can be performed in
more comfort in another space (Most all apartment bathrooms I've seen
are tight, confining spaces). A walk-in closet or a curtained-off corner
of the garage with proper tables works better for me. The wet area
has the chemistry in trays, including a water tray. Prints are run in
small batches and held in the water tray until I feel like carrying
them to the wash in the bathroom. 
Film is wound on reels and placed in tanks in the darkroom, 
then carried to the bathroom for developing,etc. under room lights. 
"Inspect" developing would require light-sealing and
safelighting the bathroom, but that is beyond my ambition at present.
 
In summary, I'd recommend that you use the bathroom for the white-light
operations and establish another area as a comfortable darkroom.
Regards, Bob.   hofbrau@cup.portal.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: hyunj@crockett1b.its.rpi.edu (John Hyun)
Subject: Need information about light meters
Keywords: light meters
Reply-To: hyunj@rpi.edu
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY.
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 07:13:56 GMT

Hello,

If there is anyone who knows anything about light meters, would
you please contact me via E-mail. I am interested in purchasing
a light meter, but I have no idea what constitutes a good one, i.e.
what features should I look for, the good and bad of different
light meters, etc. I know light meters vary in cost from $25 to $1000.
What makes those differences?

Thank you in advance for any advice and information.

--John


Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: smustopo@nyx.cs.du.edu (sofjan mustopoh)
Subject: Looking for Remigius.....
X-Disclaimer: Nyx is a public access Unix system run by the University
	of Denver for the Denver community.  The University has neither
	control over nor responsibility for the opinions of users.
Organization: Nyx, Public Access Unix at U. of Denver Math/CS dept.
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 92 20:59:46 GMT


  Sorry for posting this....  

   Hi Remigius.  I lost your email address. i stupidly 
 deleted my mailbox. I have just bought Minolta AF 100mm Macro
 f2.8. 
   You remember me Indonesian from Medan , with Minolta 8000i
 Email me at
   Smustopo@nyx.cs.du.edu
   UK07802@mik.uky.edu

  Thanks for tolerating my posting ..... :)

    Muskie
    Sofjan Mustopoh
From: sp00@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (SOO-JUN PARK)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Contax 167MT
Date: 9 Nov 92 04:28:51 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

Hi, netters!
  Would anybody help me to buy my next SLR?
I am thinking about buying Contax 167MT. Is it a good camera? for a serious
shootter. I'd like to hear story from Contax 167MT owner or anyone who have
experience with it.( Currently, I have Nikon FM-2.)
  I noticed that Contax is going to make new SLR, S2.  Unfortunately, I missed
all the posts about it, and I don't know about S2's price.  My second option
is buying an used RTS.  I will very appreciate any response and advice about
Contax camera lineup.
Thanks.


Soo Park

sp00@LEHIGH.EDU
Organization: University of Maine System
Date: Wednesday, 11 Nov 1992 17:43:08 EST
From: Damon Kiesow <IO80861@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Big/fast EOS lens advice sought
Distribution: usa
 <1992Nov11.001842.12592@odin.corp.sgi.com>

In article <1992Nov11.001842.12592@odin.corp.sgi.com>,
bongers@gto400.asd.sgi.com (Hans L. Bongers) says:
>
>In article <1992Nov10.215501.29328@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>,
>mills@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Douglas K Mills) writes:
>|> I am an amateur wildlife photographer (my income is unaffected by any
>|> choice shots), who would really like to have a good long lens........

>|>.............I had in mind a 300mm 2.8 type lens, but don't know who
>

>As long as you are going to buy a new body, you might try a Nikon F4S.  The
>money you save over
>buying a canon 300/2.8 would more than cover the rental of a Nikon 300/2.8 or
>even a 600/4.0.

   OH PLEASE!!
   The Canon 300/2.8 costs only a couple hundred more than the Nikon.
   Alternatively the F4s, which is of course a great body, cost more than
   a couple hundred more than the EOS 1, even with the EOS motor drive.
     For brevity I cut off the part of the message that whined about Canon
   changing its lens mount. But I will mention that unless, I am mistaken
   the Nikon AF lenses will only work on the F4 and the price I have for
   the Nikon 300/2.8 (almost $3,000) is for the manual focus. I think the
   AF lens is almost $5,000 compared to just over $3,000 for the EOS
   300 2.8.
     Come on now, both systems are great, there is no need for petty attacks.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: bgbauer@watcgl.uwaterloo.ca (ben bauer)
Subject: Yashica Flex TLR
Organization: Computer Graphics Laboratory, University of Waterloo, Ontario, Canada
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 14:37:47 GMT

I have recently been given a Yashica Flex TLR.  It has a 80mm
f/3.5 Yashimar taking lens and an 80mm f/3.5 viewing lens.  The 
shutter is Copal 1/10 to 1/200 and apertures from 3.5 to 22. I've
figured out most of the camera's features, however, I am having 
difficulties understanding the exposure meature.  The side-mounted 
Sekonic CB-1 meter simply has a needle that points to a number
between 0 and 22.  On the top of the camera, there are two fixed 
scales and one sliding scale as follows:

ASA
6  12  25  50 100 200     (fixed)

f
22  16  11  8  5.6  4  3.5   (slider)

T
10  25  50  100  200      (fixed)


If the light meter is reading EV units then I can go from
there, but if the light meter is in f-stops, then it must be
with reference to an arbitrary ASA and shutter-speed.
Any thoughts?

Also, I have not been able to find one of these listed in
the mail-order "used" sections in the photo mags.  I seem
to remember reading that the Yash... lenses on Yashica
TLR's were not as good as some of the other-name lenses on
other Yashicas. Is this true and what is the approximate 
value of this camera?
From: lswab@x400gate.bnr.ca (Lyndon Swab)
Subject: Comments on 55mm Takumar for 6x7?
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.,
Distribution: rec
Date: 09 Nov 92 14:33:00 GMT

This is related to the recent medium format debate.

Does anyone have any experience with the 55mm f3.5 Takumar for the
Pentax 6x7?  This is an old lens - all metal.  From what I can tell,
it is now discontinued.  B+H lists a 55mm f4.0, which I assume, is a
different beast.  All comments welcome.

While we're at it, how about the 90mm leaf shutter lense, which is
also discontinued?  How does it compare with the new equivalent (the
new one doesn't have the leaf shutter).  IMHO, 90mm isn't long enough
for portrait work, and thus, I wouldn't need the leaf shutter.
(Besides, I don't do portrait work).

Thanks,
--
Lyndon Swab     lswab@bnr.ca, (613) 763-7165, ESN 393-7165
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au
Subject: Re: Information about tripods needed
Organization: Curtin University of Technology
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 15:53:48 GMT

In article <1992Nov5.001008.14370@berlioz.nsc.com>, elau@berlioz.nsc.com (Eugene Lau) writes:
> In article <e0=R02Cb29ds01@JUTS.ccc.amdahl.com> bjs@RUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Barry Sherman) writes:
...
> I liked bogen and gitzo very much, but my wallet didn't.  I don't think it's
> fair to compare a $50 U112 to bogen's and gitzo's costing two to three times
> as much.
> 

Well add up the dollars you stick on top of it... I use a Manfrotto Triart. Not
cheap, but I payed $250, not 600+ because the original owner didn't know you 
could adjust the head when it got loose. :-) It is *VERY* quick to set up,
can be easily moved with the strap, and is rock solid. I have used it from its
minimum hight ( 18" or so ) to 9' for macro work, about 15 fires in all sorts of
crap and rubish, and misc 'normal' photos. As long as you strip and clean the
legs if you fill them with crap, it will last decades... This makes it very
inexpensive!!

~Paul

Newsgroups: rec.photo