HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: evansmp@uhura.aston.ac.uk (Mark Evans)
Subject: Re: Stink Bombs
Organization: Aston University
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 10:37:44 GMT

joec@fid.morgan.com (Joe Collins) writes:
: In article <1992Aug20.002221.21946@smartstar.com> syspb@smartstar.com (Paul) writes:
: >This isn't really a pyrotechnic device, but it may be related.  
: 
: >If anybody out there knows what that brown liquid is, or how
: >to make other stink bombs, please post it.  Thanks, syspb@smartstar.com
: 
: The famous rotten-egg smell is H2S, Hydrogen Sulphide. This is readily 
: made by mixing iron sulfide with any acid, including vinegar. Heating
: accelerates the reaction. Most of the bad odor stuff has sulphur in it.
: 
: Iron Sulphide can be (crudely) made by putting iron filings in warm molten
: sulpher, mixing and letting it cool down. Break it into chunks when cooled.

If you do this in a test tube then don't expect it to be much usable for
anything else again. The only chance of getting the glass clean is with
concentrated acid (Do this outside, and wear a gas mask)
: 
: The H2S odor is strong and horrible - do it outside. Be aware that it is
: toxic and the odor will tend to deaden your sense of smell. Thus you
: could be overcome by the odor without warning.
-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mark Evans                                   |evansmp@uhura.aston.ac.uk
+(44) 21 565 1979 (Home)                     |evansmp@cs.aston.ac.uk
+(44) 21 359 6531 x4039 (Office)             |
Newsgroups: rec.pyrotechnics
From: fernee@newton.physics.uq.oz.au (Mark Fernee)
Subject: Re: Flash powder ....
Organization: Physics Dept. The University of Queensland
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 00:18:45 GMT


In article <1992Aug20.204606.20063@fid.morgan.com>, joec@fid.morgan.com (Joe Collins) writes:
|> In article <1992Aug18.214449.2935@umbc3.umbc.edu> grabenst@umbc4.umbc.edu (Mr. Michael Grabenstein; ACS (GUEST)) writes:
|> >In article <1992Aug18.081316.24885@usenet.ins.cwru.edu> cd353@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Norman Spiney) writes:
|> >>
|> >>I have just tried the KMnO4 Al mixtures and find them very easy
|> >>to ignite. I am using "Silver powder" from an art supply shop.
|> >>to touch and is easily fluidised). The KClO4 Al mixtures seem to
|> >>barbecue skewer). However mixtures of KMnO4 KClO4 Al have shown
|> >>
|> >>Mark.
|> >>
|> >
|> >	Mark or anyone else -- What is KMnO4 and KClO4 ???
|> 
|> KMnO4 - Potassium permanganate, a purple crystalline powder
|>   Possibly obtainable from your local drug store
|> KClO4 - Potassium Chlorate, white?
|>   hard to get.

KClO4 :- Potassium Perchlorate , much more expensive and harder to get
		than potassium chlorate, and much safer to use.

KClO3 :- Potassium Chlorate , be very careful if you use this as it is
		a very treacherous chemical.

|> 
|> Both are powerful oxidizers, KClO4 being the more powerful one.
|> To see for yourself, put some KMnO4 on the ground in a small pile and
|> pour some glycerine on it and stand back and wait 1-3 minutes.
|> It will ignite and burn. The glycerine is burning and getting the
|> oxygen from the KMnO4, i.e. oxidizing...
|> 
|> 
|> >What is it found in?
|> Not much, except for fireworks. KMnO4 is used in the chemical industry
|> and KClO4 is used in the lab and in fireworks. Both may have other uses.
|> 
|> >Thanks.

|> >
|> >Later,
|> >	Mike
|> >	ZMEG@AACC.bitnet
|> >	or grabenst@umbc3.umbc.edu
|> 
|> Joe
|> joec@morgan.com
|> Usual disclaimers...
|> 
|> 


Mark.

Newsgroups: rec.pyrotechnics
From: cd353@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Norman Spiney)
Subject: Chemical and safety questions
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio, (USA)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 92 08:32:35 GMT


Does any body know about the relative safety and chemical and 
physical properties of the following chemicals;

a) DDNP
b) TACC

	
specifically, as TACC is a chlorate, will microscopic traces of 
inorganic acids cause unwanted decomposition (possibly explosive)

I have very little data on TACC. DDNP seems to be relatively safe
to handle as it is used commercially, although I do not anything
about safety and precautions in manufacture.

Is DDNP a suitable replacement for PbN3? The latter is much 
easier to synthesize, but I do not like using chemicals 
containing heavy metals (Yes I do care about my health and that
of the environment).

Mark.
From: mark-r@ee.man.ac.uk (Mark Robinson (JO PhD))
Newsgroups: rec.pyrotechnics
Subject: Re: Stink Bombs
Date: 21 Aug 92 09:31:42 GMT
Reply-To: mark-r@spec0.ee.man.ac.uk (Mark Robinson (JO PhD))
Organization: Dept Electrical and Electronic Eng, Manchester University, UK

In article <1992Aug20.205423.20146@fid.morgan.com> joec@fid.morgan.com (Joe Collins) writes:
>The famous rotten-egg smell is H2S, Hydrogen Sulphide. This is readily 
                                                 ^^
>made by mixing iron sulfide with any acid, including vinegar. Heating
                        ^
>accelerates the reaction. Most of the bad odor stuff has sulphur in it.
                                             ^               ^^

>Joe
>joec@morgan.com
             ^^^

Struggling expat?


Mark
mark-r@spec0.ee.man.ac.uk
From: jrm@gnv.ifas.ufl.edu
Newsgroups: rec.pyrotechnics
Subject: Better NI3 + Silver Azide Info
Date: 19 Aug 92 21:49:16 -0500

The recent FAQ mentions manufacturing 'Nitrogen TriIodide' by pouring
ammonia solution over 'small pieces' of solid iodine. This makes for
an imperfect product and, I believe, a more unstable one.

Ideally, the iodine should be dissolved with just enough hot methanol
to form a saturated solution. Handy methanol is availible at auto
supply stores as products designed to remove moisture from fuel systems.
Methanol is somewhat toxic and very flamable - so use the normal 
precautions in handling and heating. Have availible a large (1000ml)
container of ice-cold water. Assuming you have dissolved a gram of
iodine in the alcohol, this is about right. Rapidly pour the MeOH-I2
solution into the water. The result is the formation of *extremely*
fine crystals. Filter and wash with cold water. Use this powder to
make the NI3.NH3 by slowly pouring strong NH4 solution thru
the filter. Avoid the temptation to mix the ammonia and I2 in a small
beaker - because you will have to manipulate it more in order to
clean & concentrate it - and manipulation of this substance should be
avoided to extremes. After the reaction step - which may be repeated
a few times - finish by washing with some cold water to remove excess
ammonia. 

NI3.NH3 prepared by these steps seems - and I say *seems* - slightly
more stable and slightly more potent than that made via the cruder
method. Perhaps the homogeneity of the product, or the better removal
of contaminants is the trick. Try it and see.

-------------

Also of interest ... Silver Azide : 

This compound is made in a similar manner to Lead Azide - by reacting
solutions of Silver Nitrate and Sodium Azide. Its advantages over the
lead compound are (a) lack of spontaneous detonation during crystalization
(it forms an amorphous powder) and  (b) higher detonation power - it 
often takes half or less the amount to detonate secondary explosives.
THe price - is not bad really ... silver is fairly cheap nowdays. The
powder should be washed with cold water - to remove any excess 
reagents - and then gently dried on a warm surface. My experience shows
this compound to be fairly safe to handle. It can be melted (!),
though just barely, without exploding. It does not seem to decompose
and is not too sensitive to shock or friction. Pinhead-sized speck placed
on a drink can and ignited via a cigarette will put a hole in the can.
Just a speck more will pop a steel can. Silver Azide is toxic, so it
should not be used for cigarette 'loads' ... though a few specks in
an (non-frangible) ashtray can be very amusing. I once dissolved
silver azide in melted picric acid - the result was dangerous. 

Enjoy - and be safe !
-- Standard Disclaimers
-- Jim 

Newsgroups: rec.pyrotechnics
From: bednarek@picard.med.ge.com (Dennis Bednarek Mfg 4-6971)
Subject: Re: a.p cookbook idea
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 92 09:30:12 GMT

As having prior military experience I would not try some of the military
field expedient methods, or formulas without a closely controled enviroment.
There were many blasts that had magnitudes much greater than what I expected 
the first time and unless you know what's happening keep hands off.

On the other hand I wish I had a handbook on fireworks that gave safe, practicle
means of building your own.  Does anybody know of anything like this?

--

  
###############################################################################
### What were the Raven's last imortal words????????????????????????????????###
###############################################################################
   Please note that any comments are not my employeers or even mine at times.
From: syspb@smartstar.com (Paul)
Newsgroups: rec.pyrotechnics
Subject: Stink Bombs
Date: 20 Aug 92 00:22:21 GMT
Organization: SmartStar Corp. / Signal Technolgy Inc.

This isn't really a pyrotechnic device, but it may be related.  I have
a box of stink bombs that have a brownish liquid sealed in a glass tube.
They come 3 to a box and say "Stinkbomben" on the label.  I guess they
are made in Germany.  They work great.  You just put one on the ground 
and step on it.  Then about 5 minutes later, it smells like rotten eggs.
It lasts for about 20 minutes, then goes away without a trace, except 
for a few pieces of broken glass.  We did one in a bar one night, and
it stunk up the whole building.  It costs about $2 for a box of 3.  It
is easy to set one off and get away before they really start to stink.
The hard part is to keep from laughing, and giving yourself away.

My question is what is that brown liquid?  It said on the label that
it contained ammonia, but it smelled more like sulphur than ammonia.
How could somebody make their own?  I made a stink bomb once by taking
some about 1/4 teaspoon of sulphur with a peice of wax about the size
of a pea.  You heat them in a spoon over a candle, and it stinks like rotten
eggs when they melt together.  I tried making one of these in an aluminum
cigar tube, then putting the lid on to save it.  I was going to take
it to school, but it stunk too bad.  I even wrapped it in 3 baggies,
and it still stunk.  The liquid form would be easier to handle, but
how do you make it?  I guess Hydrogen Sulphide gas is what causes the
smell.  If anybody out there knows what that brown liquid is, or how
to make other stink bombs, please post it.  Thanks, syspb@smartstar.com
From: news_for@ae.ge.com (U-E68971-Paul Joslin)
Newsgroups: rec.pyrotechnics
Subject: Re: a.p cookbook idea
Date: 17 Aug 92 15:39:41 GMT
Reply-To: news_for@ae.ge.com
Organization: GE Aircraft Engines


In resonse to cptully@med.unc.edu (Christopher P. Tully), firebird@cbnewsk.cb.att.com (larry rosen) writes:
>> detailed instructions than anyone with a BS should need.  I'm refering
>> to such little wonders as the _Handbook_of_Improvised_Gorilla_Warfare_.
>> Wonderful title, but it gives good and safe info.
>>
>> Enjoy.
>> Chris Tully
>
>
>Good and Safe info??  You've got to be kidding.  Look at the key word in the
>title, "Inprovised" which means not neccesarily safe.  Gorilla warfare
>seems to imply that accidents will happen.

  And why not, with all those banana peels laying about? 

  Seriously, the risks that are acceptable to a soldier in "Guerilla"
  warfare frighten me.  Avoid "The Handbook of Improvised Munitions"
  and the "Anarchist's Cookbook" -- especially if you don't know what
  you're doing.

     Paul R. Joslin     |
joslin@c0223.ae.ge.com  |     "It is never too late to have a happy
   +1 513 583 3537      |		  childhood."
Newsgroups: rec.pyrotechnics
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: Flash powder ....
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 05:17:16 GMT

cptully@med.unc.edu (Christopher P. Tully) writes:
: In reference to KMnO4 and gylcerol-
: 
: It does self-ignite, just doesn't always do it right away.  I like to pour a
: small pile of KMnO4 on the ground (~ 1in dia by 1/2 in high) and douse with 
: 1/2 - 1 tsp. glycerol. (Yes I have tried this, so stand back; the flame is not
: particularily large, but it is HOT [burns Mg nicely!] and spews in a wide
: pattern.)  I did this on a small board in the snow once and got a purple 
: (ofcourse) patch right around the KMnO4, and a large (1 1/2 - 3 ft dia) 
: pattern of green specks on the snow.

The ignition goes faster of you either slightly dilute the glycerol with water
or moisten the permanganate first.

You don't have to grind the KMnO4, the coarse grains work just fine.

Bill
From: hp48sx@wupost.wustl.edu (HP48SX Archive Maintainer)
Newsgroups: rec.pyrotechnics
Subject: Igniting KMnO4
Date: 13 Aug 1992 10:09:30 -0500
Organization: Washington University in Saint Louis, MO USA
NNTP-Posting-Host: wuarchive.wustl.edu

Some person here told that it was difficult to put the KMnO4 and Al
mixture in fire. The way I get fire in KMnO4 is to use a few drops of
glycerine. This is the way we made fire without matches when I was a boy
scout.
-- 
Povl H. Pedersen             hp48sx@wuarchive.wustl.edu
HP48sx archive maintainer

All Opinions (C) Copyright the Intergalactic Thought Association
From: syspb@smartstar.com (Paul)
Newsgroups: rec.pyrotechnics
Subject: Magnesium flare
Date: 19 Aug 92 17:58:12 GMT
Organization: none

Does anyone know how they make magnesuim flares?  I know how to make
flash powder, but I want to slow the burning down.  A freind of mine
had a book that said how to make magnesium stars.  They said to mix
potassium nitrate, magnesium powder and lindseed oil, then pack it
into a paper straw.  He tried this, but it was difficult to light
and didn't work well.  Any other ideas?  Aluminum powder would probably
work just as well as magnesium.  What about mixing KClO4, Sugar, a
small ammount of Aluminum powder, and some Elmers Glue or Plaster of
paris?  I would like to make a flare that would be about 1/4 to 1/2 inch
in diameter, about 6 inches long, and burn for 1 to 2 minutes.  Any
ideas?  Please post them or email them to me.  Thanks, syspb@smartstar.com
From: haba@lesti.hut.fi (Harri "Haba" Suomalainen)
Newsgroups: rec.pyrotechnics
Subject: Re: Magnesium flare
Date: 20 Aug 92 20:52:42 GMT
Organization: Helsinki University of Technology, Finland

In article <1992Aug19.175812.22103@smartstar.com> syspb@smartstar.com (Paul) writes:

>   Does anyone know how they make magnesuim flares?

I made some notes while looking through some pyrotechnic publications.
Take a look at this list describing US Navy flares. Dig up the source
from the local library if you need more info. I've never tried any of
these, all seem like they would work in my opinion.

Some knowhow and common sence may be neccessary in order to make these.
So, here we go:

NAVY COLORED FLARE COMPOSITIONS (wt. percent)
 
                        Mk116   Mk118   Mk125   Mk124   Mk80    Mk13    Mk1
                        Green   Yellow  White   Orange  Red     Red     Blue
Magnesium               15.3    30.3    25.5    24.4    29.1    20.4    ----
Potassium perchlorate   21.9    21.0    ----    20.5    19.4    15.0    ----
Potassium chlorate      ----    ----    ----    ----    ----    ----    56.0
Potassium nitrate       ----    ----    34.5    ----    ----    ----    ----
Strontium nitrate       ----    ----    ----    34.7    34.0    45.0    ----
Barium nitrate          46.6    20.0    34.5    ----    ----    ----    ----
Sodium oxalate          ----    19.8    ----    ----    ----    ----    ----
Copper(II) chloride     ----    ----    ----    ----    ----    ----    22.0
Copper(II) oxide        ----    ----    ----    ----    ----    ----    13.0
Polyvinyl chloride      13.0    ----    ----    11.4    14.6    ----    ----
Hexachlorobenzene       ----    ----    ----    ----    ----    12.0    ----
Asphaltum               ----    4.0     ----    9.0     ----    7.0     ----
Binder                  3.2     5.0     5.5     ----    3.0     ----    ----
Shellac                 ----    ----    ----    ----    ----    ----    7.0
Stearic acid            ----    ----    ----    ----    ----    ----    2.0

GOOD BINDERS:
-Prevent the flare from bursting into flame up to 800C at slow cook-off tests.
-Rate of decomposion (when flare ignitated) should be faster than flare
 composition.
-Should be insensitive to other pyrotechnic materials.
-The amount of insensitive binder should be limited to less than 5%.
-Binder should have very low heat transfer property.
-Should contain less hydrogen more halogens (Br, etc.).

Some such binders include:
antimony trioxide, antimony pentoxide, boric acid/sodium borate, ammonium
fluoroborate, alumina hydrates, molybdenum oxides, zink borate, polyvinyl
bromide, hexabromocyclododecane, pentabromobifenyl oxide, octabromobifenyl
oxide, decabromobifenyl oxide etc.

Source: Proceedings of the Eleventh International Pyrotechnics Seminar,
        Supplement


BTW, as this is quite a common subject, maybe this could/should be included
in the pyrotechnics files or FAQ..
--
--
Harri Suomalainen        Harri.Suomalainen@hut.fi       haba@vipunen.hut.fi
From: zap@netcom.com (Paul Eastham)
Newsgroups: rec.pyrotechnics
Subject: Re: Stink Bombs
Date: 20 Aug 92 17:40:13 GMT
Organization: Ronco Food Dehydrator/Yogurt Maker/Beef Jerky Machine

In article <1992Aug20.002221.21946@smartstar.com> syspb@smartstar.com (Paul) writes:
>This isn't really a pyrotechnic device, but it may be related.  I have
>a box of stink bombs that have a brownish liquid sealed in a glass tube.
>They come 3 to a box and say "Stinkbomben" on the label.  I guess they
>are made in Germany.  They work great.  You just put one on the ground 
...
>My question is what is that brown liquid?  It said on the label that
>it contained ammonia, but it smelled more like sulphur than ammonia.

I also have a box of "Stinkbomben", and it says on the back that they
contain Ammonium Sulfide.  I've got no idea how to make it.


-- 
Paul Eastham -- zap@netcom.com -- Los Altos, CA
Play Vincent's Hollow LPMud: mud.iastate.edu 1992
"There are no facts, only interpretations." -- Nietzsche
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Newsgroups: rec.pyrotechnics
Subject: Re: a.p cookbook idea
Date: 18 Aug 92 16:33:58 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA

bednarek@picard.med.ge.com (Dennis Bednarek Mfg 4-6971) writes:
: As having prior military experience I would not try some of the military
: field expedient methods, or formulas without a closely controled enviroment.
: There were many blasts that had magnitudes much greater than what I expected 
: the first time and unless you know what's happening keep hands off.
: 
: On the other hand I wish I had a handbook on fireworks that gave safe, practicle
: means of building your own.  Does anybody know of anything like this?

Yes, there are a number of them. A suggested list is occasionally posted to
this group. If  you cannot find it in your archive files, send me e-mail and
I will send the names of a few good books. Generally, anything by Shimizu is
great.

Bill
From: jack@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk (Jack Campin)
Newsgroups: rec.pyrotechnics
Subject: Re: Stink Bombs
Date: 20 Aug 92 15:38:46 GMT
Reply-To: jack@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk (Jack Campin)
Organization: COMANDOS Project, Glesga Yoonie

syspb@smartstar.com (Paul) wrote:
> This isn't really a pyrotechnic device, but it may be related.  I have
> a box of stink bombs that have a brownish liquid sealed in a glass tube.
> They come 3 to a box and say "Stinkbomben" on the label.  I guess they
> are made in Germany.  They work great.  You just put one on the ground 
> and step on it.  Then about 5 minutes later, it smells like rotten eggs.
> It lasts for about 20 minutes
> My question is what is that brown liquid?  It said on the label that
> it contained ammonia, but it smelled more like sulphur than ammonia.

I believe it's ammonium sulphide.  Not entirely harmless but neither as
toxic as hydrogen sulphide nor as persistent as mercaptans.

-- 
--  Jack Campin    room G092, Computing Science Department, Glasgow University,
17 Lilybank Gardens, Glasgow G12 8RZ, Scotland   TEL: 041 339 8855 x6854 (work)
INTERNET: jack@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk or via nsfnet-relay.ac.uk    FAX: 041 330 4913
BANG!net: via mcsun and uknet     BITNET: via UKACRL    UUCP: jack@glasgow.uucp
From: hp48sx@wupost.wustl.edu (HP48SX Archive Maintainer)
Newsgroups: rec.pyrotechnics
Subject: Getting Al powder
Date: 19 Aug 1992 14:35:40 -0500
Organization: Washington University in Saint Louis, MO USA
NNTP-Posting-Host: wuarchive.wustl.edu

I am currently looking for some Aluminium powder, and have contacted a
danish company that does anything in special metals. Getting from their
European contact (I live in Denmark) was quite expensive, about $400+
for 500 grams of 99% Al. So I asked them to contact their US contacts to
look for prices there, as I was told that it costs nly about $4-5 per
kg. over there.

The company just called me today, the american contact wanted to know if
I wanted to use it for fireworks. What is going on ? Is CIA going to put
me into their files as either a left wing communist, or a potential
agent ? :-).  Really, what is going on ? As it is for export it is
really not their business. But I confirmed it is for fireworks purpose.
As long as it is only for the light effect, and not for explosives, then
it should be legal here. I have not been able to talk to the weapons
specialist at the local police HQ yet.

P
-- 
Povl H. Pedersen             hp48sx@wuarchive.wustl.edu
HP48sx archive maintainer

All Opinions (C) Copyright the Intergalactic Thought Association
From: loki@acca.nmsu.edu (Entropic Destroyer)
Newsgroups: rec.pyrotechnics
Subject: Re: How to get aluminum powder.
Date: 16 Aug 92 18:46:17 GMT
Organization: New Mexico State University
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5

Mark A. Pitcher (markp@noncomf.tdkcs.waterloo.on.ca) wrote:
: 
: two types of "missile grade" aluminum powder. I got the finest
: grade, which is the consistency of flour - very, very fine. It
:  
This may be off the wall, or at least off the subject, but I thought that,
at least for making thermite, you didn't want the aluminum ground up that
fine, because surface oxidation would destroy a lot of its activity.  Am
I totally wrong in this, or is thermite just a different case from rocket
fuel?

--
"Master... Master...                       (To The Tune of Metallica's)
	Master of Science is your degree.  ('Master of Puppets')
	You're too dumb for a PhD.              loki@acca.nmsu.edu
	Should have studied for the GRE!    dftaylor@cechem.colorado.edu
Newsgroups: rec.pyrotechnics
From: schediwy@hplabsz.hpl.hp.com (Bic Schediwy)
Subject: Re: Rocket Fuel question
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 19:31:46 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories Palo Alto,CA

In article <1992Aug12.134807.9367@news2.cis.umn.edu> mark@lenti.med.umn.edu (Mark Olson (CDC)) writes:
>
>   I've got a question regarding the HTPB (polybutadiene) component
>of a composite rocket propellant - how does one degass the mixture
>and avoid the foaming problem?  When I try to vacuum degass the mixture
>it expands to more than 10x its original size before many bubbles
>come out.  I suppose a vacuum stirrer would obviate the problem but I
>don't have access to one.  Would a large flat container work?  I don't
>have a lot of resin to experiment with - I'm hoping someone else has
>already solved this problem...
>  
>  Thanks!
>  
>mark olson
>mark@lenti.med.umn.edu
>

A way to reduce the foaming is to regulate the rate at which the vacuum
is developed. Put a bleeder (ie. a compressed air valve) in the vacuum
line which allows air to bleed into the system. This bleeder is adjustable
so that as the resin becomes degassed you bleed in less air. In the final
stages of degassing you close the bleeder.

cheers...bic

Newsgroups: rec.pyrotechnics