HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: webel@guvax.acc.georgetown.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Why no cantilevers on racing bikes?
Date: 27 Sep 92 22:30:54 -0400
Distribution: world
Organization: Georgetown University

In article <1992Sep27.204013.15757@msc.cornell.edu>, tan@lynx.msc.cornell.edu.UUCP (David Tan,Box 219 Baker Lab,54810,2720402) writes:

stuff on braze ons deleted

 
>> 2. Tradition (this is my bet :-)
>> 
>> Still doesn't really make sense, though. I mean, if even technofreaks (aka
>> `racers not afraid to embrace new technology -  e.g. Lemond) haven't used
>> anthing other than stock Dura Ace or Campag Deltas, then what's going on?
>> 
> 
> Maybe technofreaks like Lemond have found "stock Dura Ace or [in GL's case]
> Campag Deltas" to be the best brakes for the job.
> 
> Dave.
>> 
>> --
>> Rabbi Bajzheet - The Hooded Oesophagus  __o `God needs food, badly!'
>> Usenet: rabbi@crfm.gen.nz              _`\<,_   - Freidrich Neitzsche
>> Snail: 12 St Aun n St, Devonport, AK (_)/ (_) Voice: +64 09 445-1186

The obvious response to this answer that non-cantilever are best for 
the job is why are they best for the job, I think that is what was 
really being asked.  Never having ridden anything with cantilevers I 
have no knowledge of them, other than that they are a bit of a pain 
when I fix my friends' mountain bikes.  Anybody else know why 
cantilevers don't show up on road bikes?

baird
webel@guvax.georgetown.edu
From: davis@lugg.utah.edu (Darrell R. Davis)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Gearing question
Date: 5 Oct 92 20:01:36 GMT
Article-I.D.: adenosin.DAVIS.92Oct5130136
Organization: College of Science, University of Utah


on 5 Oct 1992 12:10:40 -0500,
gustilo@POBOX.UPENN.EDU said:
>> 48-38-28 chainwheels and a 13-26 cassette. The crankarms are 175mm long.
>> The drivetrain is a Shimano HG series.

>> I find myself walking a lot when I am riding the trails and was wondering
>> what the most cost effective way of changing the gearing to allow me to
>> climb the portions of the trail that I have to walk at present.

>> --changing the inner chainwheel to a 24? would there be a problem with the
>> front derailleur dropping from 38 --> 24?

>> --changing the last two cogs of my present cassette from 23,26 to 24,28 or
>> just getting a new 13-30 or 14-32 cassette?


A perfectly reasonable setup is 48-38-24 or 48-36-24 with a 13-30
cassette.  This seems to work well for racing.  For recreational
riding I think the lower gears you have the better.  A 28/26 low gear
combination just isn't acceptable in my opinion.


--------------------------------------------------------------
 
 Darrell R. Davis 
 Medicinal Chemistry 
 University of Utah 
  
--------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: josh@Happy-Man.com (Joshua_Putnam)
Subject: Re: Bianchi MTBs
Reply-To: Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com
Organization: Happy Man Corp., Vashon Island, WA 98070-7399
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 21:29:42 GMT

In <1992Oct2.142459.19966@athena.mit.edu> aviator@athena.mit.edu (Joakim Karlsson) writes:

>In article <BvG822.8J2@news.cso.uiuc.edu> tlt38517@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Terry Thiel) writes:
>>What's wrong with Bianchi mountain bikes?
>>They look fine to me, if it wasn't for Bridgestone I'd probably buy a
>>Bianchi.  I would certainly but Bianchi before Trek.
>>-Terry

>From what I've read, I'm convinced that Bianchi makes excellent
>mountain bikes.  When I upgrade in a year or two, I'll be looking
>very carefully at the Bianchi Peregrine (also Bridgestone MB-3
>and Specialized Stumpjumper).  

>Bianchi seems to suffer from two problems in the MTB market: (1) Their
>marketing is low key and not competitive; (2) Their MTB products
>remain in the shadow of their road and hybrid bikes, which have
>excellent reputation.

I've never consciously seen an ad for a Bianchi mountain
bike, so either they aren't there, or they aren't very good.
(Or maybe they have really good subliminals :-)  

When I went mountain bike shopping, I trusted Bianchi's
reputation more than many brands, so the lack of advertising
was no big deal.

>If anyone owns a Bianchi MTB (especially the Peregrine), I'd love to
>hear some comments.  

I have a Bianchi Grizzly with pre-MicroDrive XC-Pro.  I've
had it since it was new and never had a moment's trouble
with it on any sort of terrain.  It's held up better than I
have on some rides!

>Finally, I'd like to throw in my feelings on oversized tubing, esp.
>headsets and forks: I think they're primarily a marketing gimmick.
[....]
>Plus, I think the Bianchi and Bridgestone bikes just look
>great with their light weight lines.

My forks and headset stayed perfectly true until I got
around to intalling RockShox and a new headset.  There's no
reason a well-made 1" headset shouldn't hold up to mountain
biking.  When I first saw oversized headsets, I assumed they
were designed to look good on oversized-tubing frames.  I
suppose they really are stronger, but when I think how much
force is put on bearings the size of a 1" headset in other
types of machinery, I don't see the need.
-- 
 Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com    Happy Man Corp.  206/463-9399 x102
 4410 SW Pt. Robinson Rd., Vashon Island, WA  98070-7399  fax x108
 We publish SOLID VALUE for the intelligent investor.  NextMail OK
Info free; sample $20: Send POSTAL addr: Solid-Value@happy-man.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: sml@yarra-glen.aaii.oz.au (Steven Law)
Subject: Re: Hyper-Cracker?
Organization: Australian Artificial Intelligence Institute
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 02:14:10 GMT

idelson@bms.com (Ira Idelson) writes:

>In article 1af8rgINN809@early-bird.think.com, bobs@Think.COM ( Robert Schwartz) writes:
>>
>>Has anyone in wreck.bike world seen/heard of/used this tool?  If so,
>>does it work or is it a gimmick?  Any advice or anectdotes regarding
>>this would be appreciated.
>>
>>
>>Bob Schwartz

>I have seen one. I have used one. I own one. It works.

>Now that that's said let me say that it's useful in the field but it is a real pain in the #$%$ to use.
> 

(Painful instructions deleted)

Instead of doing the shuffle in and out of the frame, I use the Hyper-Cracker
to do the lockring up by hand. When it comes to removing it, I can usually
manage by hand, holding the cassette with a rag in my other hand. The
lockring is held by a shake-proof washer, and I have never had it come
loose on me - yet. The wheel and QR skewer must be reomved to do this.

For on the road repairs, this makes Hyperglide the easiest to
remove cassette/cluster I have used.  (I have used a Pocket-vise for clusters).

>Hope this helps, Ira Idelson

Hope this helps more, Steve Law

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: crwg2707@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (R. Wagner)
Subject: Re: khs,wheeler,raleigh, ... racing mtb bikes
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 15:03:28 GMT

Try the GT (Garbage Truck) Richter 8.0.  It has Rock Shox and is relatively
light.  The one I rode seemed to respond well, but it was only in a bike
shop parking lot so I couldn't get a good feel for how it would respond in
a real situation.  Anyway, give it a shot.


Ride on, 
Raydude.

"Ray, a man unburdened by the rigors of coherent thought." 
          -a Brannonism quoted by George Heinz

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: harry@cv.hp.com (Harry Phinney)
Subject: Re: Since we are talking about pro equip
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1992 22:45:37 GMT

tomk@netcom.com (Thomas H. Kunich) writes:
: People here generally don't like to ride with 
: people that have aero bars because they invariably get on the bars in 
: a pace line and are dangerous.

That may well be true in the Bay area, but I have ridden with
people who use clip-ons quite effectively in pace lines.  With
practice, I think it is reasonably safe for the lead rider to
be on clip-ons.

: With the standard wheels you aren't paying $500 to gain virtually nothing.
: Look, if you want to spend your life savings on aero equipment go right ahead.
: Just don't expect me to believe that it makes any difference at the 20
: mph speeds that most riders ride at.

I don't remember anybody mentioning 20 mph.  It is not reasonable to
expect that everyone posting here has the same riding ability or
participates in the same rides or races.  While I am sure the vast
majority of readers here do not race, there is at least one active Cat 1
rider, and several Cat 2 and competitive masters racers reading and
contributing to these news groups.  While I personally agree that it is
foolish for someone to spend $500 per wheel for riding around town, I
also personally do not feel it foolish to purchase such a wheel if you
are planning on "seriously" competing in time trial events.

: McCarthy won the World's Pursuit title against the most aerodynamic bike
: while riding essentially the same type of bike he would have ridden in
: 1980 -- add the tri-bars.

The picture of McCarthy published in Velo-News seemed to show a bike
with no seat tube (and maybe a set of mid-stays).  While I doubt that
McCarthy's bike was as well streamlined as the Lotus, it didn't appear
to be a funny bike from 1980.  He was also using "aero" wheels.

Aero equipment does make a real difference.  From my own experiences, I
estimate that aero bars are worth close to 1 mph.  I also estimate that
a disk rear wheel and blade-spoked front are worth about a second in a
1000 m TT.  For someone riding non-competitively these differences are
negligible.  For someone racing, they are significant gains.

Harry Phinney   harry@hp-pcd.cv.hp.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: ronf@panther3.panther.mot.com (Ron Feigen)
Subject: Re: Hyper-Cracker?
Organization: Motorola Panther Project, Chandler, AZ
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 16:11:35 GMT

In article <1992Oct1.192226.16931@bnr.ca> csolar@bcarhb6BNR.CA (Christopher Solar) writes:
>I recently bought a HyperCracker when I replaced my freewheel cluster. The thing
>cost me about $15 (Canadian). It's about 1" by 3", and it is used to remove and
>then reinstall a cassette. No other tools are needed.
>
>There are even two spoke-wrench notches cut into one end.
>
>All in all, a pretty useful little device.
>-- 
>Christopher Solar        Bell-Northern Research Ltd.           (613) 763-2862
>"Lady, It's Bingo. You can't cheat at bingo. If I could, I would, but I can't.
>I'm just lucky -- lucky to be in a town full of losers."  -Satan in Highway 61 

Cris,

Where did you get this beast?  Mail order?

-- 

>
Ron Feigen
ronf@panther.mot.com
From: jwgst2+@pitt.edu (James W Gourgoutis)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: What's the theory behind Force 40 brakes?
Date: 2 Oct 92 15:41:44 GMT
Organization: University of Pittsburgh

In article <1992Oct2.082129.4427@ericsson.se> etxorst@eos.ericsson.se writes:
>In article 6610@blue.cis.pitt.edu.UUCP, jwgst2+@pitt.edu (James W Gourgoutis) writes:
>>
>>	What's the theory behind Cannondale's Force 40 brakes?  I've recently
>>seen them on my friend's Cannondale, and it seems relatively simple.
>>	I was thinking of converting my cantilevers on my MTB to this style
>>of brake.  Can it be done?  How so?  Is it worth it?
>>	Please advise.  Thanks!
>
>Since pad force is 40 % greater, movement is 30 % (1/sqrt(2)) smaller.
>Thus, the pads need to be adjusted to ride VERY close to the rim at all
>times and the rim has to be perfectly straight (in true). C'dale riders
>have testified to problems in mtb racing when they've dinged their
>wheels. A slight wobble in the wheel that would previously not have


	Thanks!  That's exactly what I wanted to know.  This sounds to me
exactly like the old centerpull vs. sidepull controversy.  I put sidepulls on
my road bike (an OLD Puegeot) to get rid of this problem.  Now I think I'll 
leave my MTB brakes alone.  Hail to the power of the Net!  

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
James Gourgoutis       				   
Mechanical Engineering                                O   
University of Pittsburgh                           _ /__,     
e-mail me at:  JWGST2@unixd.cis.pitt.edu          (_) /(_) 
	       or JWGST2@vms.cis.pitt.edu
Thanks!                                     "A bonafide BIKAHOLIC, and DAMN
                                             proud of it!"    
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-       
--
From: RADDAMSW@LIVERPOOL.AC.UK
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Computers on shocks
Date: 29 Sep 92 10:45:26 GMT
Organization: University of Liverpool

In article <15749@umd5.umd.edu>, jp11244@snoopy.umd.edu (Ricky deLeyos) says:
>
>Hello folx,
>I just bought a Specialized Speed Zone computer for my mtb.
>my problem is that the fork mounts for the sensor don't fit on the
>Manitou forks at all. ...
>........Or does anyone else have a brilliant solution so I
>won't have to spend over $10. Thanks in advance.

My wife had a similar problem with a cateye MITY II computer. We just
zip-tied the sensor to the fork, and then put a little insulation tape over it
to stop it rotating. Not the most beautiful solution in the world, but it's
the cheapest and it works !! ;O)

Steve JW (MadBritishMountainBikerAndMaterialsScientist)
From: jimd@pequod.gvg.tek.com (Jim Delwiche)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Waxing or Oiling a chain?
Date: 30 Sep 92 20:36:46 GMT
Organization: Grass Valley Group, Grass Valley, CA

In article <1992Sep27.124120.6479@leland.Stanford.EDU> djconnel@leland.Stanford.EDU (Daniel Connelly) writes:
>In article <1992Sep25.200336.25843@mercury.unt.edu> jackson@ponder.csci.unt.edu (Bruce Jackson) writes:
>>In article <92269.101947TOM@SLACVM.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU> writes:
>>
>>
>>When my chain gets dirty I just put a new chain on.
>Your chains get dirty only every 1000 miles? 
>
>>I use inexpensive
>>chains (Sedis) and replace them every 1000 miles.  Since I consider my
>>spare time pretty darn precious I'd rather not spend it cleaning chains.
> 
>I think consideration needs also be given to the wastefulness of using
>resources in a short-term disposable fashion as well.  Sure, one can
>get into a debate about relative magnitude of effect, that maybe
>...

>a chain every 1000 miles is a good idea.  However, for many "when
>it gets dirty" occurs a lot more often.
>
>>I've noticed that my freewheel cogs and chainrings last longer when I
>>do this so it may even work out cheaper even without counting the time
>>it saves.
>
>"Last longer" than what.... letting crud accumulate or keeping the
>drivetrain clean?  There are several choices.  For now, I'll keep
>cleaning my chains.
>

I think 1000 miles is a little bit often.  I use 3000 as a rule of
thumb, but it of course depends on the weight of the rider, type of
riding, amount of hill climbing, maintenence, etc.

The main point is that the chain is the cheapest piece of the
drivetrain, and really should be considered a disposable item.  If you
feel sensitive about the waste then by all means recycle it.  If you
run a stretched chain, you will wear your chainrings and freewheel
more rapidly, until they are also disposable.  It's kind of a no-win
situation, until someone comes up with a shaft drive bike, with a real
transmission.

P.S. I noticed a clever do-dad in one of the cycling rags recently.
It's basically a bar with a hole in one end, and set of holes in the
other end.  You hold it up to the chain (still on the bike) and place
a rivet in the hole.  Now by examining which hole lines up with a
rivet on the other end, you can estimate chain stretch.

Probably costs a fortune.

Jim
From: casseres@apple.com (David Casseres)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Sensor for Computer
Date: 6 Oct 92 20:52:55 GMT
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech
Organization: Apple Computer Inc.

In article <00961A52.40E6B3E0@vms.csd.mu.edu>, 2641nabedian@vms.csd.mu.edu
wrote:
> 
> Greetings,
> 	I am an electrical engineering student at Marquette University.  As a 
> project for one of my classes, I have chosen to build a bicycle computer.  
> What I need to obtain is a sensor to iterface with our processor (8086) to 
> obtain the speed of the bicycle.  What I had in mind was some sort of spoke-
> mounted magnet which, when passing a fork-mounted sensor, would produce a 
> small electrical signal to be interfaced with the processor.  Does anybody 
> know where I may be able to obtain this sort of device?  Am I looking at this
> problem the wrong way?  Are there other (better) ways to acomplish the same
> task?

The bicycle industry is way ahead of you, I'm afraid.  You can buy the
pickups fairly cheaply at a bike shop.  There are two types in wide use. 
The first (Avocet) uses a group of magnets mounted in a ring on the wheel
hub, and an electromagnetic pickup on the fork.  The pickup produces a
signal that varies as the magnets go past, and the computer detects the
frequency of the signal which is directly proportional to the speed.

The second type (all other manufacturers, I think) uses a small magnet
mounted on the wheel spokes, and a reed switch that is actuated each time
the magnet goes past.  The computer measures the time between actuations,
which is inversely proportional to the speed.

--

David Casseres
Exclaimer: Wow!
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Sensor for Computer
From: alanb@sdl.mdcbbs.com (Alan Braggins)
Date: 06 Oct 92 17:15:26 GMT
Organization: Shape Data (Division of EDS), Cambridge UK
In-reply-to: 2641nabedian@vms.csd.mu.edu's message of 5 Oct 1992 21:19:01 GMT

>>>>> On 5 Oct 1992 21:19:01 GMT, 2641nabedian@vms.csd.mu.edu said:

> 	I am an electrical engineering student at Marquette University.  As a 
> project for one of my classes, I have chosen to build a bicycle computer.  
> What I need to obtain is a sensor to iterface with our processor (8086) to 
> obtain the speed of the bicycle.  What I had in mind was some sort of spoke-
> mounted magnet which, when passing a fork-mounted sensor, would produce a 
> small electrical signal to be interfaced with the processor.

Buying an existing bike computer would probably be the easiest way, but maybe
that would be cheating... If your local electronics catalog doesn't have anything
under "switches, reed" or "sensors", try the "security" section.

Having an optical sensor with a reflector on the wheel might give you a marginally
lighter or more aerodynamic system, but probably less reliable.

If you want something really different, point an IR laser at the ground and measure
the Doppler shift so you don't need to calibrate for wheel size :-) 
(Hey, it works for low flying aircraft).
--
     Alan Braggins, alanb@sdl.mdcbbs.com, abraggins@cix.compulink.co.uk
Shape Data - A division of EDS-Scicon Limited.   Cambridge, UK +44-223-316673
   "Any technology distinguishable from magic is insufficiently advanced."
 "My employer does not necessarily share my views - but I'm working on it."
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tdsmith@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Timothy Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Alt. Quick Release
Date: 6 Oct 92 21:37:25 GMT
Reply-To: tdsmith@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Timothy Smith)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.bicycles.tech, TOM@SLACVM.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU writes:
>matching inserts to take the place of the quick release leaver.  This will
>prevent anyone from stealing the front tire, unless they have a five star

    This may or may not be obvious, but all of these schemes to "prevent
the theft of a wheel by (insert quick release locking device of choice)"
are fataly flawed.  The nut on the other side of the skewer is still
a nut.  It can be unscrewed with a pair of vice grips.
    The only good ways to keep your wheels are to 1) keep one hand on
your bike at all times or 2) put a lock through the rim.  Locking the
quick release only buys time if the thief can't figure out how a skewer
works.

Tim Smith
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: dahls@fhydra.dnet.unit.no (Joern Yngve Dahl-Stamnes)
Subject: Re: Removing Chain-links to reduce slack?
Reply-To: dahls@fhydra.dnet.unit.no (Joern Yngve Dahl-Stamnes)
Organization: University of Trondheim, NORWAY
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 92 09:41:29 EDT

Thus spoke the keyboard of jrdodd@waikato.ac.nz:
>I've got a pretty old bike with Shimano 600 componentry,  and know that
>the chain's pretty overdue for replacement.  However, that's going to cost
>me far more than I can afford,  esp if I need a new set of chainrings (the
>derailleaur's a newy, so that's o.k.).  
>Any advice on taking out a link or two to reduce the slack in the meantime?
>I've heard of this being done before,  so would be interested to hear of
>anything relevent...

Go ahead and save some $$$ now, and you have to pay 3x $$$ when you must
change the chain, the cogs AND the chain wheel! My advice is to change the
chain now. Do not wait, or you have to change everything, chain, cogs and
chainwheel.

But if you still insist of saveing $$$ now, please check the price on a
new chain compared with a new chain, cogs and chainwheels and then make up
your mind about what to do.

+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+--+-+-+-+-+-+-+
* I went back to my mother,           * Joern Yngve Dahl-Stamnes           *
* I said, "I'm crazy ma, help me!"    * University of Trondheim            *
* She said, "I know how it feels son, * The Norwegian Institute of Tech.   *
* 'cause it runs in the family."      * Division of Physical Electronics   *
*       - The Who, Quadrophenia       * e-mail: dahls@fhydra.dnet.unit.no  *
+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+--+-+-+-+-+-+-+
From: ehouse@Apple.COM (Eric House)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Broken rear dropout
Date: 6 Oct 92 16:51:56 GMT
Organization: Apple Computer Inc., Cupertino, CA

In article <1992Oct5.201325.15477@genghis.borland.com> alexande@genghis.borland.com (Mark Alexander) writes:
>In article <1992Oct5.173129.2765@genghis.borland.com> I wrote:
>>The right rear dropout (Campy) on my 18-year old frame broke last week.
>
>I guess the moral is to
>remove and check the wheels once a week.

Gee, I'd have thought that the moral was to use axles that don't break.
Of course, you give something up when you do that: "I'd love to go out
with you, but I have to check that my rear axle isn't broken."
-- 
****************************************************************************
Eric House			"My employer doesn't share its opinions with
"Quayle in '94"		   	 me, so I can share only mine with you"
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech