HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel)
Subject: Trading Cards ? was (Addresses...)
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 18:21:19 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division

What trading cards?  I have not been in Sears if a while can
some one shed some light on this for me.

In article <1992Sep10.170814.9065@kodak.kodak.com> kroth@sunshine.Kodak.COM (David Kroth) writes:
>
>Does anybody have the corporate addresses for :
>
>  Grizzly 
>  Delta
>  Powermatic
>  Porter Cable
>  Makita
>  Milwaukee
>  Bosch
>  Black & Decker
>
>I am going to write to them and try to sell them on the
>idea of trading cards for their tools too...
>
>
>Dave Kroth
>kroth@acadia.kodak.com


-- 
Howard Rebel hpcsos.col.hp.com
From: ron@pilot.njin.net (Ron Natalie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: joining edges of wood
Date: 5 Sep 92 15:40:08 GMT
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

> I was thinking of using plywood for the carcass of the chest but was
> also wondering about using (pine) 1 bys and gluing them together.

Sure, I tend to use plywood, but that's just a personal preference.


> Is carpenter glue the appropriate glue to do this?

Certainly.  Nothing wrong with the good ol' yellow glue for things
that aren't going to get wet (as a matter of fact, it does pretty
well in certain wet environments as well).  Just avoid the temptation
to by gallons of the stuff.  It does have a shelf life.

> What width of 1 bys does one usually glue together?  Would the width
> of these 1 bys be different for the top and the sides?

I'd suspect you're buying you wood at some local lumber yard/home
center.  The answer to your question, is go see what they have.
The quality of wood in whatever sizes will probably be the determining
factor.  The [perhaps only] advantage of shopping for wood in these
places is your ability to pick around for the boards that you like
leaving the split, knotty, and wany pieces for someone else to use
for garage shelving or kids projects.  You can usually find decent 
1x6". 

> Is it enough to just use glue or would one also have to use dowels or
> something similar to connect the edges of wood?

Nah, I think dowels (or biscuits) or whatever would be excessive.
Just glue and clamps (do buy a few clamps, they're not that expensive
and are much better than whatever else you could think of).

> If just using glue is making the edges straight by using a router good
> enough.

Regardless of whether you use dowels or not you want the mating
surfaces straight (unless you intend to fill the seam with wood filler
when you're done :-)).  I've not ever tried jointing with a router
(it's been discussed here).  Generally, things come off my table saw's
Carbide tipped blade flat enough for me.  I'd be more inclined to use
a plane than the router anyhow (planes aren't that mystical and really
are less succeptible to catastrophic screwups than a router is).

> I've read something about hollowing the middle of the edges slightly for long
> pieces of wood.  Is that necessary here?

No.

-Ron
From: warren@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (warren.a.montgomery)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Safely cutting off small pieces on a table saw?
Keywords: kickback
Date: 14 Sep 92 13:37:45 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: AT&T

I occasionally use my table saw to cut off small pieces, such as
cutting off short segments of thin dowels or cutting out the waste
piece while making lap joints in small pieces.  Frequently, the
cut off piece catches in the blade and is shot across the room,
and while it isn't big enough or fast enough to do major damage, it's
still scary and inconvenient if that is the piece you were trying
to use (like a short dowel segment).  I could use a hand saw for
these cuts, but the table saw is neater and more accurate, and I'd
like to be able to make cuts like this without firing bullets
across my shop.  Any suggestions?

-- 

	Warren Montgomery
	att!iexist!warren
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Collect'm, Trade'm
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 92 02:50:59 GMT

In article <18llq5INNala@hp-sdd.sdd.hp.com> milt@sdd.hp.com (Milt Fisher) writes:
>In article <1992Sep4.204535.16863@afit.af.mil> fkilpatr@afit.af.mil (Freeman A. Kilpatrick) writes:
>>
>>>In article <1992Sep3.153611.22339@cs.ucf.edu> clarke@acme.ucf.edu (Thomas Clarke) writes:
>>>>Have a Craftsman Bench-Top Table Saw trading card (#17).
>>>>
>>>>Am willing to trade for Band Saw.
>>>>
>>
>>Bench-top table-saw... Hah!  Good luck with that one.  I, however, have the very
>>rare, limited edition, crafstman tap-and-die set (# 23).  Will sell to the highest
>>bidder (bidding starts at $50, please).
>>
>>ak
>
>Ha!  I have the tap-and-die card also.  I'll sell it for only $40.  
>Tough Luck.  :-)
>

Got you all beat. *I* have the rare One And A Half Horsepower Router
card (#37) AND the Variable Speed Jig Saw (#78). They join my large
collection of mechanic's hand tools cards. (You know, the *other*
series). Since the hand tools collection is almost complete, it's not
for sale.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | No city is large enough to support one lawyer
                    | No town is too small to support two.
                    |                        Samuel Clemens
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: wilson@schaefer.math.wisc.edu (Bob Wilson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Under $500 6" Jointers
Summary: Love the Grizzly
Keywords: jointer
Date: 12 Sep 92 22:39:28 GMT
Reply-To: wilson@schaefer.UUCP (Bob Wilson)
Organization: Univ. of Wisconsin Dept. of Mathematics

The original poster and the response both asked for experiences with
(among others) the Grizzly 6" jointer. I'll just say I love mine, and
would be glad to answer specific questions.
Bob Wilson
wilson@math.wisc.edu
From: gringort@wsl.dec.com (Joel Gringorten)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: ceramic tile
Date: 8 Sep 92 16:42:07 GMT
Reply-To: gringort@wsl.dec.com (Joel Gringorten)
Organization: DEC Western Software Lab

In article <wef_c=G00WBOQ1nHtA@andrew.cmu.edu>, Pamela Snyder <ps3x+@andrew.cmu.edu> writes:
|> I am a completely amateur, learn as you go handyperson. I want to join
|> wood trim to ceramic tile in my bathroom. Can anyone tell me if that is
|> possible and what kind of adhesive do I use?
|> 

This is probably more appropriate for misc.comsumers.house, but since it
has wood in it, what the heck.

Do you want to attach trim to the face of the tile?  Or do you want to
frame a tile area in trim?  If you're trying to attach the trim to
the face of a tile, I suspect two part expoxy would work fine, although
I've never tried it.

If you're framing the tile with wood trim, it depends how securely you've
fastened the wood trim to the substructure.  If you've glued it and 
screwed it very securely, you can use tile grout.  If the wood isn't
bonded to the substructure, go with a sanded calk, which you can probably
get to match your grout.

-joel
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 15 Sep 1992 10:21:55 EST
From:         "Lawrence E. Rondot" <RONDOT@IPFWVM.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Hutch building suggestions requested
              13 Sep 1992 17:40:45 GMT from <fkilpatr@AFIT.AF.MIL>

On Sun, 13 Sep 1992 17:40:45 GMT Freeman A. Kilpatrick said:
>Hello All.
>
>A) I'm building the Hutch from Norm's first book (New Yankee Workshop), but I
>am
>planning to build it out of oak instead of pine like he used.  Has anyone else
>built this hutch, and especially has anyone built it out of hardwood.  I am
>having
>a hard time visualizing what it would look like in oak.

I made this project last year from Rock Maple.  I decided to stain and then
use tung oil for the final finish.  My wife loves it.  It brightens up a
"dark" corner.  Be sure to have a LOT OF TIME to devote to it.

>    I am curious to know where I can "cheat" and not
>use hard wood.  Can I make the carcase frame from pine since it doesn't show?

Probably, but why?  It takes such a small amount of material to make the two
internal frames why skimp?

I made the internal shelves from Birch plywood, and I found a .375" sheet of
maple plywood for the back of the lower cabinet.  (Call a Georgia Pacfic office
& find out what they have/can get on a small scale, then find a yard or cabinet
shop to order it for you.  Watch what type of a markup the middle man is
getting.  I had one place markup the order by 200%, even thought I was picking
it up at the GP site.

On the back of the hutch, I made mine from a single glued up panel.  Mistake.
I should bave stuck to the tounge and grove he suggested.  The expansion of
cross grain panel at 50+ inches is almost .125"/side.  Very noticable when
you look at these nice straight edge of the top, and then the strange curved
line of the sides of the hutch.  Oh well, life goes on......

>How bout the drawer sides?  And the drawer backs?

I made my drawers from .5" pine that I already had around.  If I had enough
of the maple, I would have made the drawers from it also.  If (or maybe when)
the pine shows wear, I will replace the drawers with maple.

>experienced or not, email or post is fine.
Not much on experience, but lots of enthusiasm on my part....

>
>Thanks everyone,
>
>ak
>--
>Alex Kilpatrick  fkilpatr@afit.af.mil

One last item, if you are using the description from Norm's book (I did),
the first thing that I wished I did was to draw out plans.  I spent more time
playing word games and little "if this is X thick with a .375 deep dado in it,
and this part overlaps by Y inches, therefore the length I want must be PDQ"
type of games.  It drove me crazy.

In other words, Norm does enough to get you going, and enough to bait you on,
but not enough to finish the job with out major hair loss.

Buy the plans or make them from the descriptions, but have them ready before
saw is turned on.

Good Luck.

Larry Rondot
Rondot@IPFWVM.BITNET     - or -     Rondot@SMTPLINK.IPFW.Indiana.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: Table Saw Kickback
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 18:40:38 GMT

tonyo@pendragon.CNA.TEK.COM (Tony Ozrelic) writes:
: 
: Well, I've found (the hard way) that if the saw blade is not parallel to
: the fence, you get kickback. Double check your blade/fence alignment.
: 
: How I found this out is that I moved my saw from the old house to the new one
: and in the process, the blade got misaligned; the far side of the blade was
: closer to the fence than the near side. The result was that the plywood got
: caught, spun around (making a 1/4" arc-gouge in the good side), and slammed
: into my knuckles. The saw then popped the breaker, plunging the garage into
: darkness. Very scary, my hand throbbing and not knowing if I had cut off
: any parts of my anatomy!

True.  But this does not apply in his case. It was the off side piece that
got thrown by the blade - e.g. the piece on the other side of the blade from
the fence. 

I have seen the same thing happen, with a narrow scrap piece. The scrap tilted
somehow and got pinched between the blade and blade guard - with the expected
results. Fortunately, the piece missed my arm.

Bill
From: davidr@rookie.cadence (Dave Rich; x6337)
Subject: Re: Advice about workshop tools
Organization: /home/davidr/.organization
Distribution: na
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1992 06:49:48 GMT

In article <1992Sep4.121225.8765@icd.ab.com> korsberg@kirk (Ed Korsberg) writes:

>   I am considering of giving up my half of the garage in order to
>   build a workshop.  The question I have concerns the temperature cycling
>   of the tools in a garage.  My house is a bi-level and has provision for
>   heating, although I never turn it on.  My wife will of course not give up
>   her parking spot thus I cannot seal off the garage door from frequent 
>   openings.  Will tools such as a table saw tend to rust more frequently
>   under this arrangement?  

I don't think the tools will have problem, but the operator and the
wood itself might.

Turn on the heat and make sure the tools are not cold enough to numb
your hands.

Wood expands and contracts with temperature. Make sure the wood is
stable before starting any projects that require a lot of accuracy.

You can buy insulation for your garage door. If the door will be
opened many times a day, you can get clear plastic flaps to reduce
drafts.
--
____________________________________________________________
Dave Rich	tele 1-508-934-0337 email davidr@cadence.com
Cadence Design,	2 Lowell Research Ctr., Lowell MA 01852-4995
____________________________________________________________
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: fkilpatr@afit.af.mil (Freeman A. Kilpatrick)
Subject: Re: Bottom Line-Which Table Saw Is Best?
Organization: Air Force Institute of Technology
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 01:16:55 GMT

tonyo@pendragon.CNA.TEK.COM (Tony Ozrelic) writes:

>In article <1992Sep8.190044.9968@afit.af.mil> fkilpatr@afit.af.mil (Freeman A. Kilpatrick) writes:
>>
>>>And your switch should have the "off" button standing higher than any other
>>>button on the box.  Someone in panic and pain must be able to shut down
>>>the tool with a closed fist (or a stump, if it gets as bad as that).
>>
>>Gross!  That's a mental picture I could sure do without.  If all you
>>have left is a stump, then what *else* would you have stuck in the saw
>>that you were in such a hurry to turn it off?  
>>

>---    -
>  |   | |
>  --
>ON  |		<--- hole
>  --
>  |   | |
>  -- || |
>OFF ||| |	<--- bumper
>  -- || |
>  |   | |
>---   | |
>      | |
>       -

>The board is long enough so I can hit it with either my knee or my foot. The
>hole is the same size as the ON button, so it's easy to find by feel.

I think this is a great idea!  In effect, you are making it harder to turn on, but
much easier to turn off, which is exactly what you want.  I'll bet that you were
never thinking about using it with a stump, though. :)

alex
-- 
Alex Kilpatrick  fkilpatr@afit.af.mil  
"Where the ENIAC is equipped with 18,000 vacuum tubes and weighs 30 tons, computers in the future may have only 1,000 vacuum tubes and weigh only 1 1/2 tons." 
---Popular Mechanics, March 1949
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bprisco@shearson.com (Bobby Prisco)
Subject: Building a Wall Unit
Reply-To: bprisco@shearson.com
Organization: Lehman Brothers, Inc.
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 13:59:59 GMT

Hello Fellow Woodworkers,

I'm an amateur woodworker who plan to build a custom made wall unit to house my TV, stereo equipment, CD's, video cassettes and Nintendo games.

There are a few reasons why this must be custom made, the main reason being my TV is a 27" Sony with surround sound. The front speakers on the TV are attached to the unit, making it extremely wide and unconventional.

I have a couple of questions before begining this project:

1. What type of wood is reccomended when building a wall unit?

2. The TV is extremely heavy; any suggestions on how to build a support frame so that it may support a great deal of weight?

3. Are there any existing plans out there for what I plan to build?


I enjoy reading this group immensely, and would like to thank all the experienced woodworkers for sharing their wealth of knowledge with the rest of us. Thanks!
From: rcbi27@marshall.wvnet.edu (DBRUM)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Advice about workshop tools
Date: 8 Sep 92 23:57:10 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Marshall University

In article <1992Sep4.121225.8765@icd.ab.com>, korsberg@kirk (Ed Korsberg) writes:

>  My wife will of course not give up
> her parking spot...

Your problem here is going to be dust. My woodworking shop once shared a
two-car garage with someone else's car, and I finally had to rig up a
partition out of sheets of plastic and tape and twine in order to be 
properly accommodating. A very, very, very fine layer of dust would settle
all over the car, dust from the table saw, I believe, which, I believe,
produces the finest, peskyest dust of all--dust so fine that even whiring
down the highway would not remove it sufficiently; it would show in haloes
over the wipers on the windshield even at fifty miles an hour. It got all
over everything else, too: golf clubs; any article of clothing such as
a jacket or shoes; in short, anything that was lain down anywhere in the
garage for more than a day. The plastic partition worked great. Solved the
problem. Made me feel alot better :-). You could scarcely see through the
clear, vertical plastic after a short while because of all the dust clinging
to my side of it.  

--danny
-- 
	"Were his solid black square paintings really,
	as the artist claimed, simply neutral, abstract
	compositions devoid of external references and
	meanings?" ***********************************
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stevep@lugh.se.hou.compaq.com (Steve Pinn)
Subject: Re: Safely cutting off small pieces on a table saw?
Followup-To: In article <1992Sep14.133745.13170@cbnewsh.cb.att.com>, warren@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (warren.a.montgomery) writes:
Organization: Compaq Computer Corp.
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 15:30:04 GMT

|> I occasionally use my table saw to cut off small pieces, such as
|> cutting off short segments of thin dowels or cutting out the waste
|> piece while making lap joints in small pieces.  Frequently, the
|> cut off piece catches in the blade and is shot across the room,
|> and while it isn't big enough or fast enough to do major damage, it's
|> still scary and inconvenient if that is the piece you were trying
|> to use (like a short dowel segment).  I could use a hand saw for
|> these cuts, but the table saw is neater and more accurate, and I'd
|> like to be able to make cuts like this without firing bullets
|> across my shop.  Any suggestions?
|> 
|> -- 
|> 
|> 	Warren Montgomery
|> 	att!iexist!warren

With all due respect Warren, you should consider yourself lucky not to have been injured by now!  

I would suggest that you use a power tool less likely to vent its frustration in your direction<G>.  Try a bandsaw for both operations, for cutting dowels on the bandsaw place the dowel in a V block against the miter guage to prevent the dowel from being twisted out of your hand.  Lap cheeks can be easily and safely cut on the bandsaw as well.

Another choice is to use power miter box can be used for cutting dowels to length.

Steve

wm>
From: stevep@lugh.se.hou.compaq.com (Steve Pinn)
Organization: Compaq Computer Corporation
Subject: Re: Safely cutting off small pieces on a table saw?
Keywords: kickback
From: cohill@vtserf.cc.vt.edu (Andrew M. Cohill)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Cutting aluminum on a table saw
Date: 15 Sep 92 14:20:48 GMT
Organization: Fire in the Mountain

In article <1992Sep14.210943.14277@eos.arc.nasa.gov> phil@eos.arc.nasa.gov (Phil Stone) writes:
>I have heard that it is possible to do nice clean cuts through
>aluminum with a table saw.  Does this apply to relatively thick
>(1/8") stock?
>

We used to routinely cut aluminum stock up to 1/4" thick with a
hand-held circular saw.  Use a moderately fine tooth blade; on a 10"
table saw you probably want something like a 40 tooth blade.  Wear
goggle--the chips go everywhere and have a lot more kinetic energy than
wood.  Also wear ear protection;  the noise will scare the hell out of
you.  Bit it's quick and easy.


-- 
|          ...we have to look for routes of power our teachers never       
|              imagined, or were encouraged to avoid.   T. Pynchon          
|                    
|Andrew Cohill        cohill@vtserf.cc.vt.edu            VPI&SU                                                  
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: c2k@ham.slc.mentorg.com (Carl Ketcham)
Subject: Re: Safely cutting off small pieces on a table saw?
Date: 14 Sep 92 11:18:45
Distribution: na
Organization: MGC

In article <1992Sep14.133745.13170@cbnewsh.cb.att.com> warren@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (warren.a.montgomery) writes:
Path: news.mentorg.com!uunet!stanford.edu!rutgers!att-out!cbnewsh!warren
   From: warren@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (warren.a.montgomery)
   Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
   Keywords: kickback
   Date: 14 Sep 92 13:37:45 GMT
   Distribution: na
   Organization: AT&T
   Lines: 15

   I occasionally use my table saw to cut off small pieces, such as
   cutting off short segments of thin dowels or cutting out the waste
   piece while making lap joints in small pieces.  Frequently, the
   cut off piece catches in the blade and is shot across the room,
   and while it isn't big enough or fast enough to do major damage, it's
   still scary and inconvenient if that is the piece you were trying
   to use (like a short dowel segment).  I could use a hand saw for
   these cuts, but the table saw is neater and more accurate, and I'd
   like to be able to make cuts like this without firing bullets
   across my shop.  Any suggestions?

   -- 

	   Warren Montgomery
	   att!iexist!warren


I had the same problem trying to cut short dowels for a project - I solved it
by building a fixture.  I started with a piece of 2x2 about 4" long.  I
drilled a hole the size of the dowel through the fixture lengthwise, about
1/4" from one edge.  I then cut a slot across the 2x2 about 1" from an end,
deep enough to cut completely across the drilled hole.  I slide the dowel
through the block, line up my mark with the slot, and slide it across the blade
(I use a board screwed to the miter gauge and a clamp -- this improves the
likelyhood of avoiding an unscheduled digitectomy B^)

I hope this basic idea will be helpful to you.

Cheers,
Carl Ketcham
--
-------------------------------------------------------------------
My opinions are mine, (all mine), and do not necessarily reflect 
those of my employer.

Carl Ketcham     carl_ketcham@mentorg.com
Mentor Graphics, Suite 300, 5295 South 300 West, Murray, Utah 84107
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: muldoon@books.enet.dec.com (Steve Muldoon - Correspondent-at-large)
Subject: Re: Need Plywood Source 3/16-1/4"
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 13:46:31 GMT


In article <65528@cup.portal.com>, JEFF-G@cup.portal.com (Jeff - Griffin) writes...
>Can anyone recommend a source for multi_ply 3/16 or 1/4" plywood?
> 
>Hardwood on both sides is preferred but hardwood on one side w/Poplar on the
>other is acceptable.
> 
>I'd like these in 4x4' panels (though 2x4' would suffice).
> 
>Sources in MA, RI, CT preferred but Mail_order houses would be considered.
> 
>Thanks,   Jeff Griffin

         A quick look at the Boston Yellow Pages (1989) yields
      15 entries under "Plywood and Veneers". Boulter Plywood
      in Somerville, MA is a retail dealer specializing in
      plywood -(617) 666-1340.

         You might try posting this in rec.aviation, as this type
      of plywood is sometimes used by the folks that build their
      own airplanes. 


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Steve Muldoon (DEC Educational Services)|   It's an unfinished life that I
                                        |     find lies before me,
    muldoon@books.enet.dec.com          |   An open-ended dream that I
    !decwrl!books.enet!muldoon          |     don't want to wake...
    muldoon%books.enet@decwrl.dec.com   |                 - Kate Wolf
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------