HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: stevek@gobi.UUCP (Stephen Kogge)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Nikkor autofocus wide angle lens questions
Date: 19 Aug 92 12:05:33 GMT
Organization: Underwater Imaging

In article <92231.134446FKK@SLACVM.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU> FKK@SLACVM.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU writes:
>I am an active Underwater photographer using a Nikon 8008 in an
>Ikelite housing and dual strobes.  The system really works well and
>I need a wide angle lens.
>
>My question is:  what Nikkor wide angle lens are really good? How do
>the 20mmAF and 24mmAf and the older 24mm manual focus lenses compare?
>
>Any comments would be appreciated.

	I use the 20mm AF with the 5T (I think it is the 5T) close up as per
Chet Tussey's suggestion. As you can guess I use a Tussey housing. The
20 works well with auto-focus but is not as sharp as a Nikonos with
a 15mm (the 15mm and 20mm are the only 2 lenses I would suggest for
the Nikonos).
	I find more edge problems with the 20mm on the 8008 than with
the 15mm on a Nikonos body. I will continue to use the 8008 because I can
see what I am shooting. For those who have not used a Nikonos (I thru V)
it is not an SLR and is not even a rangefinder, and the addon viewfinders
have all the problems of add-ons in that you are never sure where you
are centered.

	The 105mm does not auto-focus well underwater, Chet called it
"twitchy" and I am glad I have manual focus gears.
	I have not tried the 60mm yet, my guess is that I will use it
in manual focus.

	Steve Kogge
	stevek@uimage.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: supplies@sklib.usask.ca
Subject: RE: Mail Order Experience from CANADA ??
Organization: University of Saskatchewan
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 15:31:06 GMT

I bought a n6006 from free - trade photo in the Bronx. You should have to
pay only the GST on gear coming into Canada. That's all I paid.
It was a substantial saving over buying a 601 at my local pro-shop.
From: mtoms@ems.cdc.com (Mark Toms)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Multiple exposure calculations
Date: 20 Aug 92 20:10:47 GMT
Reply-To: mtoms@ems.cdc.com
Distribution: na
Organization: Empros Systems International, a division of CDC

David,

  I saw your posting on calculating the second exposure f stop
on rec.photo and was interested in constructing a chart like the one
below.  People might want to have a chart like this handy some
times:



1st exposure      2nd exposure should
under by          be under by
---------------------------------------
              |
              |
              |
              |
              |
              |
---------------------------------------
All units in f stops


Alternatively, and preferably to me, I would like to show
the values expressed in EV (exposure value).

I wasn't sure how to do the lg(1-2^(-y)), where lg is base 2,
calculation.  I was planning on using 1-2-3 in order to simplify
my work.

Can you provide one or two example entries for my table?  Also,
is it possible to generalize your solution to handle 3, 4, 5, exposures?
Granted, more than 2 gets a little carried away, but why not
provide the data and let the individual make that decision.

Thanks,
Mark

--
==========================================================================
J. Mark Toms                                email: mtoms@ems.cdc.com
Baltimore Gas & Electric, Company
C/O Empros Systems International            Phone: (612) 553-4423
2300 Berkshire Lane North                     FAX: (612) 553-4018
Plymouth, Minnesota  55441-3694 USA      Mailstop: PLY060
==========================================================================
From: jimc@tau-ceti.isc-br.com (Jim Cathey)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Infrared Photography
Date: 14 Aug 92 01:02:04 GMT
Organization: ISC - Bunker Ramo, Spokane, WA

In article <1992Aug11.131933.17286@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk> jack@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk (Jack Campin) writes:
>> using Konica Infrared 750 B&W Film.
>I use visible-light-absorbing IR filters (with a Leica rangefinder and a
>TLR, obviously not with an SLR!), rate the stuff at ISO 50, and develop in
>Rodinal 1:50.

I shot one roll of Konica in my Mamiya.  I used their recommended
sunny-day exposure for a #25 (red) filter (and it worked all right).  A
friend had a #87 filter (black -- passes IR only, one big advantage of
my TLR over his SLR!) that I tried.  Konica didn't list an exposure for
this, but my friend said that with Kodak IR film he had found that an
extra 2 stops did the trick.  No way! The negatives were so thin you
could barely see traces of image.  Looked like something more like 4
extra stops for this film.  Konica IR film is less sensitive to IR than
Kodak's is, which you might expect given that Konica gives no special
handling instructions for it. 

-- 
+----------------+
! II      CCCCCC !  Jim Cathey
! II  SSSSCC     !  ISC-Bunker Ramo
! II      CC     !  TAF-C8;  Spokane, WA  99220
! IISSSS  CC     !  UUCP: uunet!isc-br!jimc (jimc@isc-br.isc-br.com)
! II      CCCCCC !  (509) 927-5757
+----------------+
			"PC's --- the junk bonds of the computer industry"
From: finn@isi.edu (Greg Finn)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: photo-developing, specifically nudes
Date: 15 Aug 92 19:17:07 GMT
Reply-To: finn@dalek.isi.edu (Greg Finn)
Organization: USC-Information Sciences Institute

In article <1992Aug14.153656.29588@clark.edu> gsnow@clark.edu (Gary Snow) writes:
>In article <1992Aug13.194244.23506@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk> jack@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk (Jack Campin) writes:

>You better do a little more reading there. CDs of the Audio variety (the same
>variety as the PhotoCD), have a lifetime of at least 25 years (they don't have
>an MTBF, because they aren't magnetic media).  If properly taken care of (eg.
>kept in their cases until used, and then put right back), they will last
>longer then you will.

	My understanding is that audio CDs are pressed and then vacuum
coated with aluminum or gold to achieve the reflection property needed
for reading.  This is a mass production technology, with a master fee
of about $2500 and subsequent cost per disk of about $2 the last time
I checked.  They are not serially written nor are they writable.
Write once CDs use another fabrication technology.  What their
longevity characteristics are I do not know, but I would not casually
compare them with audio CDs unless you know that they are comparable
from studies that you have seen.  MTBF is a statistical measure of the
probability of a system failure over time.
--
Gregory Finn	(310) 822-1511
Information Sciences Institute, Marina Del Rey, CA 90292
From: phr@soda.berkeley.edu (Paul Rubin)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Is this a great deal on a 500 mm lens??
Date: 22 Aug 92 19:07:02
Organization: CSUA/UCB
NNTP-Posting-Host: soda.berkeley.edu
In-reply-to: ajayshah@almaak.usc.edu's message of 22 Aug 92 23:30:14 GMT

Everyone I know who has bought a cheap mirror lens has regretted it,
myself included.  Those aren't even good prices for such lenses.

If you want a cheap long tele, you may be better off getting one of
the preset refractor type.  Some of those are supposed to be ok.
From: goldberg@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Mark Goldberg)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: EKTAPRESS..
Date: 17 Aug 92 14:03:26 GMT
Reply-To: goldberg@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Mark Goldberg)
Organization: Naval Surface Warfare Center, Annapolis, MD

In rec.photo, hlam@umiami.ir.miami.edu writes:
>I shot a few rolls of EXTAPRESS GOLD (iso 100) and the prints seems to be
>highly saturated with deep contrast.  If I ever come to a situation where I
>need high contrast, I would definetely recommmend this film.  Otherwise, I
>would stick to other film...

I shoot Ektapress all the time.  It is of higher contrast than Vericolor,
but to my eyes, no more than Kodacolor or Ektar.  A factor in how things
appear is the printing - process and paper.

I once had the same images printed by two labs and the diffference was
really astounding.  Labs that do portraits have "softer"  softer paper.
They are also geared to printing flesh tones.

Many times, I choose Ektapress because of its versatility, ability to
be stored at room temp, and availability of three emoulsions.  I prefer
not to use it when doing portraits in harsh sunlight, unless the contrast
is a desired part of the rendition.  For banquets and parties, it's
ok.  The ASA 1600 is the best high-speed negative I have used.  It has
gotten me some excellent existing light portraits.  Ektapress came through
with the first few portraits of my newborn son (in 1990).  They were
far more natural than the hospital's pro could have taken.  The enlargements
from 1600 are grainy, but that adds to the effect.

   /|/| /||)|/  /~ /\| |\|)[~|)/~   |   Everyone's entitled to MY opinion.
  / | |/ ||\|\  \_|\/|_|/|)[_|\\_|  |      goldberg@oasys.dt.navy.mil
========Imagination is more important than knowledge. - Albert Einstein=======
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: ehr@ecsvax.uncecs.edu (Ernest H. Robl)
Subject: Re: How to take picture in the dark??
Summary: Ektachrome EES & fast lens
Organization: UNC Educational Computing Service
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 01:11:51 GMT

In article <1992Aug19.215438.13384@pmafire.inel.gov>, geoff@pmafire.inel.gov (Geoff Allen) writes:
> gsnow@clark.edu (Gary Snow) writes:
> >In article <86520@netnews.upenn.edu> duong@chestnut.chem.upenn.edu (Duc Duong) writes:
> >>
> >>I went to Disney Land and I took alot of pictures during
> >>the evening for electrical parade. I used 400 Kodak film, Nikon N4004S,
> >>with a Nikon 22 flash in automatic mode but the quality of the pictures
> >>turned out very very dull and badly.
> >
> >The secret is a good tripod, slow shutter speeds, and NO FLASH.
> 


Actually, in this case, a tripod would be of limited use, since the
electrical parade consists mostly of moving floats which have
literally thousands of small light bulbs each.

A flash also doesn't do much, since it then offsetts the effect of
the many small bulbs.

I shot this parade during a visit to Disneyland in 1987, managing to
get reasonably decent photos.  The technical details, as best as I
can reconstruct:  Nikon F2 camera with 85mm 1.4 lens, Kodak EES
professional slide film, rated at 800 (requring one-stop P1 push
process).  I tend to bracket a lot in these situations, but would
guess that the exposures were probably in 1/30 to 1/60 range,
with the lens probably either wide open or at f 2.0.

There are some situations where you just can't beat a fast lens.


If you can find suggested exposures for outdoor Christmas decorations,
these would probably also apply to this parade.  But, for the parade,
you have to keep in mind that things are moving.  On the other hand,
you might get some interesting effects from longer exposures.

-- Ernest

-- 

"My other computer is a Nikon N8008." -- Ernest H. Robl
Ernest H. Robl (ehr@ecsvax)  Durham, NC, USA   +1  919   286-3845
                                         FAX:  +1  919   286-1696
From: rgonzal@gandalf.rutgers.edu (Ralph Gonzalez)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Another Stylus vs. Yashica T4 comment
Keywords: compact 35
Date: 18 Aug 92 20:50:18 GMT
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.


I stopped by a camera store the other day, and thought I'd contribute
my impressions on the Olympus Stylus vs. Yashica T4 35 mm compact
cameras. 

The Stylus was very difficult for me to use because I am left-eyed and
right-handed. When I hold the stylus, my right thumb hits my nose and
I can't get the viewfinder to my eye. I think it has to do with the
location of the eyepiece.

The Yashica T4 is apparently made in the same factory as the much more
expensive Contax compact 35. Both companies are owned by Kyocera. The
Yashica, however, as the usual plastic body versus the Contax's metal
one. Of course, the Yashica has a very nice lens. Featurewise, I was
impressed by its relatively long maximum shutter speed (1 sec versus
1/5 sec for the Olympus).

In any case, my Minox 35EL seems to be working again, so I'm not
buying anything now.  But if I did, it would be the Yashica T4 or the
somewhat more expensive Rollei Prego. The Minox is in my opinion much
more distinctive-looking and has nice manual features, but the more
modern cameras have autofocus vs. the Minox's guess-focussing system!

Typical discount prices:

Olympus Stylus $110
Yashica T4 $145
Rollei Prego $270
Minox 35GSE $270 (the equivalent current model to the 35EL)

-Ralph
-- 
Ralph Gonzalez, Computer Science, Rutgers Univ., Camden, NJ
Phone: (609) 757-6122; Internet: rgonzal@elbereth.rutgers.edu
--
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: drraymon@watdragon.uwaterloo.ca (Darrell Raymond)
Subject: Re: Enlarger vs. Slide Projector
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 16:59:11 GMT

In article <1992Aug14.070848.18495@odin.corp.sgi.com>, donl@glass.esd.sgi.com (donl mathis) writes:
> Could you have found a way to say this without being so nasty?  This
> is rec.photo, not alt.bad.attitude.

  My apologies if it came across that way.  It was an attempt at humor 
that failed, I guess.

-Darrell.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jim@n5ial.chi.il.us
Subject: Re: Darkroom sinks and all that stuff
Originator: jim@eddie
Reply-To: jim@n5ial.chi.il.us
Organization: me?  have you seen my desk?  : -)
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 18:11:06 GMT

In article <1992Aug17.204205.22650@meaddata.com> otto@meaddata.com
(Otto Burgess) writes:

>For those of you interested.  In an attempt to build my darkroom, I was forced
>d that High Density Polyethelene (HDPE) is the best substance to use.  Yes, it
>
>t is too flexable to stand on its own.  I am building a full support stand for
>
>I am getting closer to the darkroom I want.  But I am undecided on the enlarge
>0II, or the Bessler 45 VXL.  Any input from experience, or otherwise, would be

looks like major portions of your post got lost in transit.... it almost
seems as though only the first sentence of each paragraph got transmitted,
and everything after the first LF (LF, CR/LF, CR, whatever applies to your
system) of each paragraph got zapped.

I'm rather interested in what it would take to setup a darkroom (can't
afford to do more than think about it, but I'm interested, just the
same).  could you please re-post this?  or, just as well, if you'd e-mail
it to me.  btw, you should also set your right margin a little more to the
left....hitting CR right at column 80 is tough to read (of course, in this
case, it didn't really matter since everything after that is missing
anyways).

thanks...
   --jim

\input std_disclaimer                     % 73 DE N5IAL (/9)
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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INTERNET:  jim@n5ial.chi.il.us  |  grahj@gagme.chi.il.us  |  j.graham@ieee.org
UUCP:  gagme!n5ial!jim@clout.chi.il.us
AMATEUR RADIO:  n5ial@n9hsi (Chicago.IL.US.Earth)
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: zlsiida@fs1.mcc.ac.uk (dave budd)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Batteries
Date: 19 Aug 92 13:17:29 GMT
Organization: Manchester Computing Centre
Originator: netnews@uts.mcc.ac.uk

Topcon IC 1-n (now obsolete!) uses 2 1.3v mercury batteries
Manual says valid replacements are:
Mallory RM 675R
EverReady E675
Burgess Hg-675
Ray-O-Vac 675R

and warns against 1.5v batteries.

Yesterday, got 2 Ray-O-Vac 675RXS's, BUT they're 1.4v
                               ??

Will this have deleterious effects on metering/iris control?


 
+---------------------------------------------------------------------+
|  What should always be remembered about England is that from 1950   |
|  to 1957 one of the most popular acts on RADIO was a VENTRILOQUIST  |
|  Dave Budd, MCC, Oxford Rd, Manchester, England   (44)061-275-6033  |
+---------------------------------------------------------------------+
From: feltman@hpscit.sc.hp.com (Robert Feltman)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 19:49:53 GMT
Subject: Re: Racial remarks (was: Cambridge)
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Clara, CA
Newsgroups: rec.photo

Wonder what nationality Salas is...
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: skimmel@amex-trs.com (Steve Kimmel)
Subject: Re: loooonnggg lens
Organization: American Express Travel Related Services
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 05:51:40 GMT

>ghica@fig.citib.com (Renato [Titanium Cranium] Ghica) wrote:
> I was watching the olympics on channel 4 last night, and saw the one
> One guy had a camera with a lens that must have been five or six feet long!
> And only about five inches in diameter!
nikon made (makes?) some long telephotos in the 1200mm f11 range that were
(according to "lenses and lens systems by j.d.cooper & j.c.abbot")
989mm x 133 and 922 x 135mm (old style with separate "focusing unit"
which works out to a little more than 3 feet (1yard=.9144meters). 
-- 
Steve Kimmel   N7ULW           Phoenix, AZ      |                         
Internet skimmel@amex-trs.com                   | my views only, in no way
UUCP	 uupsi!amexphx!skimmel                  | the views of my employer.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jake@bony1.bony.com (Jake Livni)
Subject: Re: For Sale:  Yashica Mat 124 G TLR camera for sale
Keywords: medium format
Organization: The Department of Redundancy Department
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 92 21:44:47 GMT

In article <1245@ceylon.gte.com> kbb0@harvey.gte.com (Kevin Burke) writes:

>the rounds he played the dealer's offering prices off each other. Since
>the less experienced dealer had offered a little higher than the
>"accepted" offering price, several other dealers took him aside "an'
>'splained" a few things to him. At that point I felt I had little chance
>of a fair negotiation and left. It's too bad, there were some nice
>things there.

At the Meadowlands NJ show a coupla years ago, I found a guy who was
selling his complete Olympus outfit.  The bouncer (who was running the
show, i.e. dealers paid him for their tables and he collected the
entry fees from the "suckers") physically pushed me out, accusing me
of being a dealer who hadn't paid a table fee.  By the time I
convinced to him that I don't work in photogrpahy for a living, the
set had been sold to one of the dealers who already had it up for sale
(at a nice mark-up, of course.  Quick flip.).

I don't think I've bothered going back since.  While it IS possible to
get a good deal from a private person or even from a dealer, the shows
are geared towards forcing a profits for the dealers and your getting
a good deal is less likely.

-- 
Jake Livni  jake@bony1.bony.com               Pat Paulsen for President
American-Occupied New York                    This year he has a real chance!
My opinions only - employer has no opinions.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: brown@ccit13.duq.edu (Jason Brown)
Subject: Canon Photura
Organization: Columbia University Center for Telecommunications Research
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 18:38:44 GMT
X-Posted-From: ccit13.duq.edu
X-Posted-Through: sol.ctr.columbia.edu

Anyone have any opinions about the Canon Phontura?

I just bought one, not feeling like investing the time to be able to  
wisely use a manula 35mm outfit.  Has anyone had any problems with this  
camera, any hints?

--Jason
From: sog@craycos.com (Steve Gombosi)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Grainy B&W film?
Date: 14 Aug 92 18:42:42 GMT
Organization: Cray Computer Corporation

In article <1992Aug14.164047.21429@newshost.unh.edu> K_LEPA@unhh.unh.edu (Kristen   Lepa) writes:
>Is there a B&W film out there that is inherently grainy?  I know it
>would help if I got a very fast film, but I like to work with slower
>speeds.  

Hmmm...why not use really fast film and a neutral density filter?

Does Kodak still make recording film? Now *that* was grainy ;-).

Steve
From: gsnow@clark.edu (Gary Snow)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: media permanence (was Re: photo-developing, specifically nudes)
Date: 20 Aug 92 15:54:24 GMT
Article-I.D.: clark.1992Aug20.155424.19150
Organization: Clark College, Vancouver, Wa.  USA

In article <1992Aug20.001750.17439@pbhya.PacBell.COM> whheydt@PacBell.COM (Wilson Heydt) writes:
>
>While I agree with the basic premise--about 15 years ago I was working
>a project that would have required storing data for entire working
>careers *plus* 75 years--you have both missed a bet.  There's been a
>digital medium in use far longer than you think.
>
>Paper tape.

Yeah, I concede that paper tape is digital media, and been in use for quite
some time, but is it magnetic or optical digital media...:-)

Gary

-- 
-----
Gary Snow
uunet!clark!gsnow  or  gsnow@clark.edu
Organization: Doctoral student, Engineering and Public Policy, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 14:35:30 -0400 
From: Luis Abdon Cifuentes <lc0v+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: Zeiss lens question

On 13-Aug-92 in Zeiss lens question          
user Chuck Liang@saul.cis.upe writes:
> 
>  Are lenses labeled "Carl Zeiss Jena" made in East Germany?
> 
>  The lens in question is a 50mm f2 Sonnar (with a red T) I bought
>with a Contax IIa.  I think it's made after World War 2 because the
>lens is coated.  If it is made in East Germany, it must be an earlier
>model - so are they comparable in quality to West German versions?
> 
>  Also, the salesman told me that although the lens is coated, it is
>not intended for color photography - so that color photos taken with
>the lens might come out flat.  Is there any truth in this?  I have an
>old, uncoated Leitz elmar lens and I found the colors briliant.
> 
>  I'm also interested in knowing if there are any contax rangefinder
>users out there.  Anything interesting or peculiar you can tell me
>about the Contax IIa is greatly appreciated.  
> 

My first camera was a Contax IIa with the Sonnar 50/2. I believe Jena is
in East germany. The branch of zeiss in the west was located in
Obercochen (sp?). I am sure about the distinction for topography
equipment, but not so sure for photo equipment. 

The IIa is a great camera, except for the viewfinder. I never quite like
it, it is not bright and the image is small. The metal curtain shutter
is delicate also. I once dropped a friend's contax from waist level, 
and one curtain of the shutter was completely broken. Fortunately some
guy could repair it with pieces from another body.
Unfortunately, I got my camera stoles some 10 years ago. I still have
a135 sonnar, and a 21mm biogon (amazing for that time!).  If I still had
the body however, I don't know if I will be using it. I got spoiled
first with SLRs, and now with AF. Anyway, the pictures were sharp!.

Luis
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: whheydt@pbhya.PacBell.COM (Wilson Heydt)
Subject: Re: media permanence (was Re: photo-developing, specifically nudes)
Reply-To: whheydt@PacBell.COM (Wilson Heydt)
Organization: Pacific * Bell, San Ramon, CA
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 00:17:50 GMT

In article <1992Aug19.213620.25447@clark.edu> gsnow@clark.edu (Gary Snow) writes:
>In article <22234@venera.isi.edu> finn@dalek.isi.edu (Greg Finn) writes:
>>In article <1992Aug19.155539.17331@clark.edu> gsnow@clark.edu (Gary Snow) writes:
>>>Hold it, are you trying to tell me that a B&W PRINT can out live its digital
>>>counter-part?  I don't think so.
>>
>>	What digital storage technique has a successful 50+ year
>>history and is still being used on a significant scale?  I know of
>>none.  
>
>Not valid, since we haven't had digital media all that long, but as you
>say below, I am sort of predicting the future. If there is any digital
>media that is 50 years old (were we using any during World War 2?), it
>was when the technology was in its most infant stage.  Surely we have
>had changes since then, but as the technology matures more and more
>of the digital media will become standardized, and will have at least
>a useful lifespan.

While I agree with the basic premise--about 15 years ago I was working
a project that would have required storing data for entire working
careers *plus* 75 years--you have both missed a bet.  There's been a
digital medium in use far longer than you think.

Paper tape.

	--Hal
-- 
Hal Heydt                    |    "Boycott Time-Warner"
Analyst, Pacific*Bell        |         --J. Danforth Quayle
510-823-5447                 |    "... kill all the lawyers."
whheydt@pbhya.PacBell.COM    |         --William Shakespeare