HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: milt@sdd.hp.com (Milt Fisher)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Seeking Comments on NIKON F4 and on a P&S (which lenses to buy)
Date: 27 Aug 1992 13:01:11 -0700
Organization: Hewlett Packard, San Diego Division
NNTP-Posting-Host: hp-sdd.sdd.hp.com

>steveh@pilot.dmg.ml.com (Steve Hannoford) writes:
>...
>>>I would also like feedback from you F4/Nikon AF owners as to what (AF)
>>>lenses to buy.  I plan on the F4s and SB-24.
>

I am about to buy a Nikon N8008s (before the rebate expires) and probably an 
SB-24 (since everyone says that it's such a great flash.)  I'm having trouble
deciding which lens(es) to buy.  For now I'm primarily interested in taking
picures of my quick moving 1 year old son.  I'm also interested in landscape
photos.  I'd like recommendations on which lenses would be appropriate for
these uses.  I don't have megabucks (especially after buying the 8008s and
SB-24) so I don't want to spend > $500 on lenses at this time.

Also, what are people's opinions on the MF-21 data back.  Does anyone actually
use any of its features?  I would use the bracketing feature, but don't
really know about any of the others.  I don't like dates printed on my 
pictures.

I'm also thinking about the MC12A shutter release.  Is there anything else
available for less money?

What would you get if you had $1500 to spend?

And, finally, should I get a Nikon strap? :-)

Thanks for taking the time to respond.

-- 

Milt Fisher - Hewlett Packard, San Diego Division
milt@sdd.hp.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: vivitar slide printer ?
From: dkarp@eagle.wesleyan.edu
Date: 4 Sep 92 13:02:08 EDT
Organization: Wesleyan University


i am considering the purchase of a vivitar slide printer (model number ???,
priced around $80) to make polaroid transfer prints.

has anyone any experience with this machine?  is it well suited for making
transferable polaroids?  

please email or post.

thank you.		david karp
			dkarp@eagle.wesleyan.edu


Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jpglori@srv.PacBell.COM (John P. Gloria)
Subject: Re: red slides
Organization: Pacific * Bell
Distribution: rec
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 04:45:08 GMT

In article <1992Sep2.222537.15550@math.utexas.edu> filippo@felix.ma.utexas.edu (Filippo Cesi) writes:
>I recentely came back from a trip, had my slides (Ektachrome 400) developed
>and ... disaster... they are completely ruined. There is red everywhere,
>in places where you would rather see greens, blues, yellows and all the
>other nice colors. You can more or less guess what the picture represents,
>but the colors are completely screwed up. Can the tropical climate
>(hot and humid) have had such a bad effect on my rolls
>or more likely something went
>wrong with the developing process?
>I have to decide whether to get upset with FOX Photo Studio or not.
>
>Thanks for any hint,
>
I am by no means an expert.  I have seen slides from other people (same
problem) and I believe their problem were a combination of flare; perhaps
a crack in your body that is letting light in.  One source that
is often overlooked is when shooting landscapes and using the
camera on a tripod and shooting with long exposures and NOT
blocking the eye/view finder (where you look to view/focus).
My Canon F1 has a tiny lever that closes a curtain over the
eye piece so light doesn't enter.  Since I have never shot
under the conditions you mentioned, I cannot address that 
aspect of it. 
-- 
        ---------  John Gloria - jpglori@pacbell.com	--------	
 		"You cannot depend on your eyes when your imagination
	       is out of focus."   -     Mark Twain
From: sparks@col.hp.com (John Sparks)
Subject: Re: Zone system with 35mm?
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 17:01:55 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division

In article <1992Aug28.204651.11414@noao.edu> lytle@noao.edu (Dyer Lytle  CCS) writes:
>To do the Zone system with 35mm in changing light conditions, I think it
>would be best to use three or four camera bodies.  This shouldn't be too
>expensive if the camera bodies are something like old Nikkormats or
>Canon AE-1s.  The problem with this is that you have to shoot 24 pictures
>before you develop your film (or waste film) and that adds up to 72
>photos in three camera bodies.  Myself, if I am being very careful and
>using the Zone system, I often will only shoot 4 or 5 photographs in an
>entire day.

I think it's valid (expecially with roll film, but even with sheet film) 
to use paper contrast controls to do some or all of your contraction and
expansion and still call it the zone system.  I think metering both shadow
and highlight values and placing them where you want them and knowing 
your materials and how to control the entire process so that the final
print is as you visualize when you make the exposure.  The zone system is
not just controlling development time to adjust contrast.

With roll film, I think the most useful way of working is to find a 
development time that gives you the most flexability to control small
expansions and contractions with choice of paper brand, contrast grade, 
paper developer choice and selenium negative intensification for getting
the results you want under the widest conditions.   Then you can use 
this development in most cases except when exposing an entire roll 
under similar lighting conditions where you may want to change development 
for contraction or expansion or sever lighting problems where you have to
correct negative development to get the desired results.  Even though this
is somewhat different from what you would do with sheet film or ideally do
with 4 camera bodies in 35mm, I think it still fits with the concept of
the zone system as proprosed by Adams to still be called the zone system.
In fact, I believe that Adams mentions something like this in the book
The Negative.

John Sparks
From: gsnow@clark.edu (Gary Snow)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Problem with screen slides
Keywords: depth of field focus
Date: 27 Aug 92 19:27:27 GMT
Article-I.D.: clark.1992Aug27.192727.2252
Organization: Clark College, Vancouver, Wa.  USA

In article <1992Aug27.043729.6067@cerberus.bhpese.oz.au> david@cerberus.bhpese.oz.au (David Masters) writes:
>I took a heap of slides of computer screens here at work, and
>although the results are generally very good, some of them have
>me concerned.
>
>Problem: Focus changes from top to bottom of the screen.
>Camera: Nikon F401, used in manual. AF 28-85 Nikon lens.
>
>Before I started I checked in the FAQ to get any tips, and it
>suggested < 1/30, a tripod, bracket the shots, and a long lens.
>
>Well, I interpreted a long lens as say 85mm. I have a 28-85 Nikon
>AF that I used on the day. Some of the shots have different focus
>from top to bottom. I couldn't see this when I was setting up for
>each shot. They are in focus in the centre.
>
>Question: What do I do to increase the depth of field here? Use
>my 70-210 AF (at > 85mm)  with longer exposures, or use higher 
>f-stop number with the 85mm, (and a longer exposure).

What aperture were you using, because it would have to be pretty wide to
give such a narrow depth of field.  More then likely its the fault of
the lens, I forgot the technical term, but there is a reason for such
a focus problem with some lenses.  Have you tried a different lens?

Gary

-- 
-----
Gary Snow
uunet!clark!gsnow  or  gsnow@clark.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jjc4@po.CWRU.Edu (James J. Campanella)
Subject: selenium wash
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio, (USA)
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 92 12:41:38 GMT


Does anyone with more experience in photography development know

how to treat B&W prints with a selenium wash to get that beautiful

brownish-reddish tone that I've seen in some museum quality prints?

I believe that it's selenium treatment. . . am I misremembering?

How about this as a more general question: are there any good photo

books on print processing that describe how to do this or similar

treatments? Thanx. 
-- 
Jim Campanella|"You're a ninja?! Should I call you 'Master'?"
CWRU Bio Dept.|"Hmm, That has a ring to it."
Cleveland,    |"Yeah, and so does a bathtub . . . "
Ohio          |  -Tom Servo, Master Ninja I, MST3K
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: ka1gt@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (robert.m.atkins)
Subject: Cambridge CNBC Comsumer Affairs
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 17:12:22 GMT

While flicking through the cable TV channels last night I spotted a picture
of a Canon Rebel on CNBC (Consumer News and Business?). It turned out to be
a consumer affairs type show in which a viewer writes in with some item which
they have a local price for, and the "reporter" finds a better deal on that
item. Well, guess who they found for the Canon Rebel. Non other than our
favorite mail order store - Cambridge Camera. Makes you wonder, doesn't it.

===============================================================
Bob Atkins  AT&T Bell Labs  email (direct)  att!clockwise!rma
===============================================================
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: Glen Matthews <CCGM@MUSICM.MCGILL.CA>
Subject: Re: T-Max Films
Organization: McGill University Systems Inc (MUSIC/SP)
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 13:54:08 GMT

about my 2 cents worth ... I was cut off!!!

 I was going to say that I haven't had problems using T-Max film.
However, I always pre-soak at the correct temperature, process at
the actual temperature of the solutions, use Patterson tanks and reels,
and also don't use T-Max developer very much. Recall that T-Max film
wasn't "developed" (pardon the pun!) with that developer - as I recall
it was D-76. So don't feel that with T-Max developer you've got a
solution optimized for the T-Max films - as I understand it, it's
designed for PUSH processing. I've used Microdol mixed 1:3 with great
grain - currently, I process most of my T-Max film that way, unless
push processing or using p-3200.

In article <1992Aug30.204315.1@acad3.alaska.edu> fsjfz@acad3.alaska.edu writes:
>i don't usually do my own processing (shoot too much Kodachrome), but i was
>going to try making BW transparencies with the T-Max reversal kit.  If anyone
>has any experience using the reversal kit, i'd like to hear about their
>experience with it before i jump in.

   I've tried it a few times. It's not too difficult and better than
the other formula that I've seen in that you don't have to expose it
to light in mid-process - the Kodak formula chemical fogs the film.
HOWEVER ... and is anyone from Kodak listening? ... it contains a
known carcinogen - the warning is on the BOX! - buy gloves and wear
them. That's what I did. In fact, I use it so infrequently because of
that (and also the cost).
   The results are wonderful - silver tones. The results are almost
worth the hassles, in my opinion, and may BE worth the hassles in yours


Glen Matthews
MUSIC Product Group, McGill University
550 Sherbrooke St. West, Montreal, Quebec, Canada H3A 3C5
Phone: (514) 398-4477 Fax: (514) 398-4488 BitNet: CCGM@MCGILLM
Internet: ccgm@musicm.mcgill.ca   Anonymous FTP: vm.mpg.mcgill.ca
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: stettbac@isibee14 (Juerg Stettbacher)
Subject: Ektar 25 vs. Gold 100
Organization: Swiss Federal Institute of Technology (ETH), Zurich, CH
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 19:10:28 GMT


Hello world

Can anyone tell me about the difference between the films

  - Ektar 25 and
  - Gold 100 (or similar).


Thanks
juerg at ethz switzerland
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: ka1gt@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (robert.m.atkins)
Subject: Re: Rear Curtain Sync on EOS 630
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 19:24:09 GMT

In article <1992Aug31.184642.19133@walter.bellcore.com>, jchen@smdsctt.bellcore.com (C. Jason Chen) writes:
> According to Glen's List, EOS 630 has rear (second) curtain sync for flash. 
> But I could not find this feature in the EOS manuals. How do I set this up?
> 

The second curtain sync feature is not in the 630 manual (or 10s manual) but
is a feature of the flash unit. For example with the 430EZ flash you select
first or second curtain sync on the 430EZ, not on the camera. Thus the
feature is covered in the flash manual, not the camera manual.


===============================================================
Bob Atkins  AT&T Bell Labs  email (direct)  att!clockwise!rma
===============================================================
From: bclee@ocf.berkeley.edu (Bob C. Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Why do photofinishers crop so much?
Date: 27 Aug 1992 19:14:18 GMT
Organization: U.C. Berkeley Open Computing Facility
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: hailstorm.berkeley.edu

In article <78205@ut-emx.uucp> psilsbee@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Peter Silsbee) writes:
>Hi,
>  it seems that all the places I get my color negatives
>printed chop off large portions of the picture during
>the printing process. I've taken them to three different
>local shops recently and they're all the same. Is there
>a reason for this? The aspect ratio is exactly the same,
>by the way, I'm shooting 35 mm. (24x36 mm. image size)
>and printing on 4x6 in., so that's no excuse. Is this 
>standard practice? If so, why? I'm not talking about
>a little margin-of-error, here, but fully 2.5-3 mm. of image
>gone... this is about 15% of the image area! I'm tired of
>heads, hats, tops of mountains, etc. missing and I'd rather not
>have to leave a zone of extraneous material all the way around.
>Any comments or recommendations (besides do it myself, I've 
>already concluded that this might solve several problems but
>it's not going to happen THIS year anyway...)?
>
>Thanks, Peter
>


	Actually, the aspect ratio of the image on negatives (35mm)
	is not the same as normal prints.  If look at the negatives,
	the images are sort of longish rectangles, longer than the
	prints made.

	I really have no idea why prints are not made according to the
	dimensions of the negative.  Maybe there is an industrial
	standard???  If the cropping is a standard practice, I suggest
	that the camera manufacturers mark the "effective" image are
	in the finder.

	Oh, btw, if the cropping really annoys you, try to leave
	room on both sides of the pictures when you take them.


	G'day,

	...B.o.b...
From: pd@sics.se (Per Danielsson)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Photograping Whales [8008s autofocus problem]
Date: 1 Sep 92 10:11:03 GMT
Organization: Swedish Institute of Computer Science

In article <1992Sep1.053347.27068@cello.hpl.hp.com> jacobson@cello.hpl.hp.com (David Jacobson) writes:

>Secondly, and this is no help to you, I have often been wishing camera
>manufacturers would include what I call "demand focusing".  On the
>8008s there is a little button just right of the lens near the bottom
>that serves as focus lock in S (single shot) and C (continuous).  Just
>add D (demand).  In this mode it AFs only when this button is pressed.

With a Canon USM lens you can manually adjust the focus even if the
lens is in AF mode. You press the shutter down halfway and if you
don't like what the AF thinks should be in focus, you can quickly
twist the focusing ring manually and take the picture.

The Canon EOS RT (and perhaps also the EOS 10) can be customized to
use a separate button for initiating AF. This means that you can let
the camera set the focus automatically and then leave it at that
position for every following shot.
--
Per Danielsson				pd@sics.se
Swedish Institute of Computer Science, PO Box 1263, S-164 28 KISTA, SWEDEN
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jpglori@srv.PacBell.COM (John P. Gloria)
Subject: Re: Problem: Green spots on negative
Organization: Pacific * Bell
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 15:55:21 GMT

In article <1992Sep3.122103.14432@news.lrz-muenchen.de> dranidis@informatik.uni-muenchen.de (Dimitris Dranidis) writes:
>
>
>Hello, 
>
>I've come back from my holidays, and I got my films developed.
>I saw on some photos red spots, coming from nowhere, sometimes 
>when even no sun in the picture was. I looked at the negatives and
>I noticed green spots (negative) which are not only in the picture 
>frame but outside also (see sketch).
>
>--------------oooooooooooooooooooooo--------------------
> ==    ==    ==  ooooooooooooooooooooo   ==    ==     ==    
>-----------+  +----oooooooooooooooo----------+  +-------
>           |  |     ooooooooooooo            |  |
>           |  |         ooooo  |             |  |
>           |  |             |  |             |  |
>-----------+  +-------------+  +-------------+  +-------
> ==    ==    ==    ==     ==    ==    ==    ==     ==    
>--------------------------------------------------------
>
>My camera is a Minolta X-700, my lens a zoom Minolta 28-70, the film 
>Kodak Gold 100. Nor filters neither accesoires were used. I took
>photos from lots of sunsets (Greece) and generally with the sun in 
>frame. I've done this before and had no problems. I've never opened
>the back of the camera neither heve I reloaded a film. I didn't even
>changed the lens during the holidays. I developed the film in a cheap
>photo store, from which never had problems before.
>
>I would appreciate any help that will clear whose fault is it.
>Should I worry for my camera?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Dimitris

It appears to be processing screw up.  Although screw up occur at the 
best labs, the odds are more likely to occur at the "Long's Drug" store 
type places.  You know, process a roll and get double prints for $5.99.
This is not a flame towards you or anyone that takes their film to
these type of labs, but I for one would NEVER submit my vacation
film or any film for that matter to those "cheap" places.
-- 
        ---------  John Gloria - jpglori@pacbell.com	--------	
 		"You cannot depend on your eyes when your imagination
	       is out of focus."   -     Mark Twain
From: tklai@acsu.buffalo.edu (Tobysze K. Lai)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: What lens to get for EOS Elan?
Date: 2 Sep 92 14:00:15 GMT
Organization: UB

>>  I'm trying to decide among the following lenses for an EOS Elan:
>>
>>- Canon 35-80mm f/4-5.6 USM (fast, quiet), ~$150
>>- Canon 35-80mm f/4-5.6 EF, ~$85
>>- Sigma 35-80mm f/4-5.6, ~$70
>>- Sigma 35-135mm f/3.5-4.5, ~$130
>>
>>Does anybody have any positive and/or negative experiences with these
>>lenses?  Are these prices reasonable?  Either e-mail or post is okay.
>>Thanks.
>>
>>  Thomas Wu
>>  Internet:  tjwu@athena.mit.edu
>
>
>The Canon 35-80 EF is an all-plastic dog, not worthy of the Elan.
>The 35-80 USM is slow for its zoom range and not as good a lens
>as the now-discontinued (but still available) 28-80/3.5-4.5 II,
>which should cost about $175. Can't say much about the Sigma
>lenses except that I wouldn't put ANY $75 zoom lens on a nice
>camera like the Elan!
>
>			-Alan

I think if you are gonna spend $175 on the EF 28-70/3.5-4.5 II, you will get
a better deal from the Tokina AF 28-70 SD instead.  This lens has the
"Super-Low Dispersion" glass, made by Tokina, in its lens barrel.  I have owned
this lens for about 3 months and I have been satisfied with it.  I bought
that lense for $169 on the EOS EF mount (Costs less for other mounts).
The macro ratio of the lens is 1:4.9, and the minimum forcuing distance is 
1.54 ft, if I remember correctly. I tried the lens with a few rolls of 
Fuji Reala and the pictures came out really sharp, and the color was good, 
also.

Toby Lai
tklai@acsu.buffalo.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: bu890@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Brian Segal)
Subject: Re: Fuji Slide Film or Pushing Kodachrome
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio, (USA)
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 92 11:16:51 GMT


I have always found Fujichrome 400 to be much more muted and less contrasty
than any other fujichrome...certainly NOT a match for Velvia!  It also has
fairly noticable grain, but that is a very nice feature if you are looking
for a more impressionistic look as the muted tones and grain give a
very fine quasi-pointilistic effect.  In fact you can really exaggerate
this by pushing the film one stop - but watch out for high contrast light!!

On the other hand, if you are confined to 35mm, RSP 1600D has interesting
possibilities.

brian
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: dougb@comm.mot.com (Doug Bank)
Subject: Lithium AA batteries!
Reply-To: dougb@ecs.comm.mot.com
Organization: Motorola Land Mobile Products Sector
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 17:59:35 GMT

Well, Motorola is having a supplier showcase in the parking lot.
I was ambling past the booths and saw the Energizer Bunny. I stuffed
my card in the box so that I could win another useless stuffed 
animal for my house and got to talking with the salesguy.

They now have litium AA batteries.  They look real good, though they
will be pretty expensive in the begining.  They have a significantly
longer lifetime than alkalines, and they have much better cold temperature
performance (no comparison with nicads was listed though).  But what
I really noticed was their weight.  They are a 1/3 of the weight of a
normal AA.  Since I usually have 8 extra in my bag plus 4 in each camera
and 4 in each flash, that make a pretty big difference.  Just holding the
camera will be easier.  Hopefully someone else will come out with a
competing product so that the price goes down.

-- 
Doug Bank                       Private Systems Division
dougb@ecs.comm.mot.com          Motorola Communications Sector
dougb@nwu.edu                   Schaumburg, Illinois
dougb@casbah.acns.nwu.edu       708-576-8207                    
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: bgbauer@watcgl.uwaterloo.ca (ben bauer)
Subject: P universal to F adapter
Keywords: screw-mount F-mount
Organization: Computer Graphics Laboratory, University of Waterloo, Ontario, Canada
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 17:47:02 GMT

I need a source for a thread-mount to Nikon-mount
adapter, (lens to body repspectively)... on a related
note, who knows anything about Takumar 400f/5.6 thread-
mount, manual diaphragm lens?
Newsgroups: rec.photo,alt.cd-rom,gnu.misc.discuss,misc.int-property
From: hchong@netcom.com (Hoi Chong)
Subject: Re: Time to boycott Photo CD
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 92 05:13:06 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 

From article <1992Aug27.173045.4694@m.cs.uiuc.edu>, by hasker@m.cs.uiuc.edu (Rob Hasker):
> jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond) writes:
> 
>>>The only people who can read/write the Photo CD files are commercial
>>>vendors who pay Kodak royalties.
>>
>>As an enthusiastic photographer and user who is waiting on this product 
>>with bated breath, I say "who cares?"
> 
> Look at what happened with Nintendo.  Nintendo successfully sued people
> who decoded the cartridge interface so they could make and sell their own
> Nintendo-compatible games.  The result is that the price of Nintendo
> games is _much_ higher than it would be if there was legal competition.
> Do you really want to go to Kodak for _every_ image manipulation program?

I know a guy (thru a friend of a friend...) in Kodak whose job is
specifically going around persuading software companies to write programs
to support PhotoCD.  So much for getting _every_ image manipulation program
from Kodak.
From: eugene@briar.lle.rochester.edu (Eugene Kowaluk)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Inrared Photog + Spider Webs
Date: 1 Sep 92 21:13:12 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: UofR Laboratory for Laser Energetics

robert.m.atkins writes:

> Most film is sensitive in the near UV region.

Conversations with Kodak's scientific section several years ago indicated
that Kodak's color films have a built uv filter.  If you look at the
spectral sensitivity curves for Ektar 25, for example, the yellow-forming
layer works down to only 400nm, which is, as you say, the near UV region.

The B&Ws, however, easily work down to 351nm.  I have obtained images there
using Tri-X, T-Max 400, and Polaroid 3000.



eugene kowaluk
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: shelly@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com (Sheldon Kay)
Subject: Minolta Maxxum 7xi or Cannon EOS Elan
Organization: Lockheed Missiles and Space Co.
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 92 14:59:00 GMT

I am interested in either a Minolta Maxxum 7xi or Cannon EOS Elan. I am looking
for negative comments only. Thanks...
      
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Newsgroups: rec.photo