HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: ron.parker@uttsbbs.uucp (Ron Parker) 
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: FLEECES AND CRIMP
Date: 23 Dec 92 07:19:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: The Transfer Station BBS, Danville, CA - 510-837-4610/837-5591
Reply-To: ron.parker@uttsbbs.uucp (Ron Parker) 

LORI SPIER ASKED:
LS|puzzling me - in reading about the various breeds of wool, one of the
LS|characteristics mentioned is the crimp. The question is - does the
LS|number (or amount) of crimps per inch make a difference in how the
LS|finished product looks or behaves?  It's a silly question but like I
LS|said, one that

YES, YES, YES! Although I think it is a bit of a chicken-and-egg
question.  Crimp is usually measured in crimps per inch.  If you look at
a lock of raw fleece, it has a distinctive crimp pattern.  It might have
a low crimp (like a Border-Leicester or Finn):  Anywhere from 2 - 4
crimps per inch.  (To measure crimp, hold the lock without stretching,
and count the "bumps" which occurr within the space of one inch).
Low-crimp yarns tend to be coarser, and the yarn should be spun more
loosely to allow for it.  Anne Field recommends that, if you have a
fleece of, say, 4 crimps per inch, your yarn in the 2-ply should reflect
the same number of twists.  For example
_________________________  This is the yarn
\*  \   \   \   \*  \   \  From * to * is one inch.
 \ 1  \ 2 \ 3 \ 4\   \   \ Each number represents one 'bump' on the
   \   \   \   \   \   \   \ plied yarn.
____________________________   This goes for all crimps.

Finer wools (merinos, etc) have lots of crimp (over 15 per inch), and
with some the crimp is tight and is all over the place and almost
impossible to measure (some of the Down breeds).  As a rule, coarser
fleeces (with little crimp) need less twist and produce a thicker yarn
(naturally), while finer fleeces need more and produce a finer yarn.
The whole point of the exercise is to preserve the qualities of the
fleece in the yarn.  That is, don't turn your spongy Romney into string.

If you ever get to go to a class given by Anne Field (author of the
Ashford Book of Spinning..) DO SO.  It is expensive, but worth every
penny!

Feel free to ask questions...  Somehow this message isn't coming out as
clearly as I had hoped....

--Andy--

ANDREA ALBERT AT FIBERNET

 * SLMR 2.1a * Do radioactive cats have 18 half-lives?
---
 . QWiKerNet 0.69 . Fibernet BBS Henning, Mn 218-583-4337
                                       
From: Lola.Lee@p872.f70.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Lola Lee)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: knitting newsgroups?
Date: Fri, 01 Jan 1993 08:52:11 -0500

  JM> From: jill@cray.com (Jill McAllister) Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
  JM> Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
  JM> 
  JM> Does anyone know if there is a newsgroup or a listserv group for
  JM> knitting? Please email me directly (jill@cray.com) as I don't have
  JM> much time lately for reading this group.
  JM> 
  JM> Thanks, Jill
  JM> ---
  JM>  * Origin: The Black Cat's Usenet <=> Fidonet Gateway (1:109/401.0)

Will anyone with an answer to that question please post to this newsgroup as
well, as I'm very interested in knitting.

Lola



Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: hank@well.sf.ca.us (Hank Roberts)
Subject: Re: Question about this Newsgroup
Organization: Whole Earth 'Lectronic Link
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1993 23:24:40 GMT


Well, all of my postings are about art (grin) .... I make and sell mobiles
for outdoors, and my metalwork consists of hard brazing brass, 'nugold' and
other nonferrous metal, plus some stainless steel recently.  I'd guess that
in a year or two there will be enough threads on selling, marketing,
galleries, design, display, color, motion etc. that the distinction between
the crafts (the competence at making something the best way) and the arts
(selling the damned stuff to people who make it art by paying for it even
if they don't know what to do with it, my own definition of course).

Meanwhile I need to learn a hell of a lot about the craft, only been doing
this stuff 15 years in my copious spare time, wish I'd had the shop classes,
and a place and skills to do welding, and much else.

Thanks for this group.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: caastanl@atlas.cs.upei.ca (Alan Stanley)
Subject: Re: Oriental Gong from Sheet Steel
Organization: University of Prince Edward Island
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 1992 18:51:59 GMT

In article <Bzrnpp.Ip@nocusuhs.nnmc.navy.mil> yoshi@nocusuhs.nnmc.navy.mil (D M Yoshikami) writes:

>
>If I remember correctly, large flat surfaces (such as Gongs) like to
>warp when you throw them in the quenching baths.  This can be
>obnoxious on things such as saws, and even things like swords and long
>knives. 

I think in this case that the domed shape of the gong would be inherently
stable enough to prevent serious warping, although a little cold setting
might well be in order after the quenching process was complete.

As for the heat itself - I don't know anyone who would have a forge large
enough to heat an entire gong.  What I would do would be to build a good
size wood fire and get a good healthy bed of glowing embers.  If I was smart
enough to plan this all out in advance I'd barbecue a few ribs at the
beach, eat the ribs and put the gong in the still glowing embers.  When the
gong was a nice even dull cherry red throughout I'd throw it the ocean to
cool.  I'd probably even charge extra because it had been brine hardened :-)

I hadn't actually even considered gongs until this discussion started, but I
think I'll try one , now that my interest has been piqued!  I'll let you
know in a few weeks how it all comes out.

Alan Stanley, Queens County Blacksmith Shop

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: shaffer@achilles.ctd.anl.gov (Michael A. Shaffer)
Subject: Atlas address
Organization: Argonne National Laboratory
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 17:42:29 GMT


I have an old Atlas Horizontal Milling machine that is badly in need
of service. I would like to get a servoce manual but I don't have
an address. Does anyone have a current address?

				mike
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond)
Subject: Re: Green Patina on Copper
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 92 11:08:26 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.

djt@merlin.caltech.edu (David Thompson) writes:

>Hi All,

>	Interesting suggestions for turning copper green! In case you have 
>trouble obtaining the necessary ingredients/chemicals, Constantine's (a 
>woodworking supply company, mail-order) sells a solution to form the green
>patina on copper, bronze, and brass. 

Anohter source is most any stained glass supplier.  Patinas of various
colors are a stained glass artist's stock in trade.

John
-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC               |Interested in high performance mobility?  
Performance Engineering Magazine(TM) | Interested in high tech and computers? 
Marietta, Ga                         | Send ur snail-mail address to 
jgd@dixie.com                        | perform@dixie.com for a free sample mag
Need Usenet public Access in Atlanta?  Write Me for info on Dixie.com.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: morganh@atlastele.com (Morgan Hall)
Subject: Re: ahhhh it's good to be home
Keywords: fellow metal lovers unite
Organization: Atlas Telecom Inc.
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 16:04:46 GMT

In article <ijeff.725071811@cunews> ijeff@hank.carleton.ca (Ian Jefferson) writes:
>Here is a question for someone that has puzzled me for years:
>
>When seperating two metal parts, usually steel and steel, it has been
>common pratice to apply heat to the parts to free them.  The effect
>is especially noticable in steel on steel parts.  Why does this help?
>I first though that expansion of the heated part might be the reason but
>in the case of a bolt in a caseing it seems to be more effective to heat
>the bolt rather than the caseing. 
>
>Ideas?

My guess is that several things are happening.  In some cases oil & grunge
have formed a mechanical jamb fit between the parts.  Heat breaks down the
compound that is blocking the parts and lets them slide free.
In some cases there may be microscopic bonds between the metal of the two
parts that the differential expansion breaks.
I think though, in most cases when we're talking about steel, we're dealing
with red rust.  Red rust (ferric or ferrous oxide, I can't remember which
is which) roughens surfaces, occupies more space than the original iron,
and tends to grow together into a mass.  Heating the red oxide can change
it into the black form and the change breaks down the structure of the
red mass.  

Morgan
From: karish@pangea.Stanford.EDU (Chuck Karish)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cheap source for Air hardening tool steel
Date: 22 Dec 1992 20:58:53 GMT
Organization: Mindcraft, Inc.
NNTP-Posting-Host: pangea.stanford.edu
Summary: drill rod

In article <1992Dec22.195211.28944@pb2esac.uucp> kamooni@pb2esac.uucp
(Ken Moonitz) writes:
>In article <Bzo01o.J18@news.cso.uiuc.edu> cbl@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu writes:
>>	I don't know what grade of tool steel I need, I was told
>>	that 'air hardened tool steel' was what I needed for the task.
>>	I'm trying to build some swaging dies that need to be able
>>	to swage antimoinal lead, ~25Brinell. I 've been told that the
>>	static pressures are about 50Kpsi. The other detail I omitted
>>	is that what I need is 7/8" _round_ stock. 
>
>What you should be asking for is 7/8" "drill rod".

If you just ask for "drill rod", you'll probably get an
oil-hardening alloy.

I'm not sure why AHTS was specified for this application.
Possibilities:

  - Less distortion during heat treatment.

  - Easier heat treatment process.

  - Greater abrasion resistance from some air-hardening
    alloys.  Probably not an issue for this application,
    unless there are very many parts to be made.

If the tolerance is closer than +/- .002", you may have
to make an allowance for dimensional changes if an
oil-hardening tool steel is used.
--

    Chuck Karish          karish@mindcraft.com
    (415) 323-9000 x117   karish@pangea.stanford.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc
From: revans@uspi2.Prime.COM (Robbin Evans)
Subject: Re: Stained Glass
Organization: Prime Computer, Inc.
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1992 14:54:04 GMT

In article <1992Dec24.014053.1354@midway.uchicago.edu>, dsoconne@quads.uchicago.edu (Daniel S OConnell) writes:
> I'm wondering if anyone knows where I can get a book (or periodical
> for that matter) on making stained glass.
> 
> I've checked in a few art stores and a few `mainstream' bookstores
> but have been unable to find anything or anyone who knows anything
> about this.
> 
> I'm interesting in making some stained glass and don't really 
> know anything. I understand there is some place where one can
> `do' stained glass in the Chicago suburbs, but that's about
> it.

Daniel,

I don't think an art store or even a good bookstore is going to
have the information that you need, and my public libraries didn't
help much either.  My first suggestion is that you look in your
phone book -- under Glass - Stained and Leaded -- to see if there
is a stained glass supply shop somewhere in your area.  I'd be
amazed if you couldn't find a supply shop or at least someone who
makes stained glass pieces who could tell you where to find more 
information locally, even if they can't sell you supplies.  If you
can find a shop then you can go in and see the different materials,
find out about classes, get someone to recommend a good introductory
book.

If you can't find anywhere near you to help, then I suggest your write
to Whittemore-Durgin and ask for their catalog.  The address is:

Whittemore-Durgin Glass Company
825-D Market St
Rockland, MA  02370

They are a large distributor (who happen to be located in my area) who
have all kinds of supplies.  The catalog itself is amusing to read, and
they carry different kinds of introductory materials -- kits involving
no glass cutting, easy kits, and introductory books.  I think they carry
a book called "An Introduction to Stained Glass" or something like that,
which is old but gives a pretty good introduction.  Personally, I 
recommend taking a class if you can, but if you can't, you can probably
find things to get yourself started here.

I will also tell you that materials for stained glass work are not 
inexpensive.  You will need a cutter, a couple of types of pliers, and
a soldering iron as your basic tools, as well as glass, solder, flux,
and copper foil or lead came to work with.  In addition, I find a glass
grinder is indispensible for getting a smooth edge to your glass.  If
you can find someone to let you use some of their tools just to see if 
you like what you're doing before you make an investment, it's useful

Good luck, and send me mail if you want more info (just don't expect an
answer until after 1/4/93).

/Robbin Evans
revans@uspi2.prime.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: jeq@i88.isc.com (Jonathan E. Quist)
Subject: Re: Question about this Newsgroup
Organization: INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation, Naperville, IL
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 22:24:55 GMT

In article <POLLACK.92Dec31164918@dendrite.cis.ohio-state.edu> pollack@cis.ohio-state.edu writes:
>rec.crafts.metalworking is less than one month old. A group called
>trial.rec.metalworking has been around for a couple of years, with

Funny, I was looking for this group years ago, and never, ever saw
trial.rec.metalworking...

>Our preference was for rec.metalworking, to be sister to
>rec.woodworking, and one cantankerous machinist was so incensed at
>having to accept "craft" in the middle, that he almost blew the whole
>thing by flaming away at the internet oligarchs in news.groups.

That seems strange.  What's wrong with viewing onesself as a craftsman,
and one's skills as a craft?

>Thanks go to Jim Kirk for handling the details.

Why, did he set the Enterprise's phasers on stun, and blanket the
usenet with phaser fire?  :')
-- 
Jonathan E. Quist                              Lachman Technology, Incorporated
jeq@i88.isc.com  '71 CL450-K4 "Gleep", DoD #094        Naperville, IL
 __       There's nothing quite like the pitter-patter of little feet,
 \/                   followed by the words "Daddy!  Yay!"
From: jdb@arp.anu.edu.au (John D. Barlow)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tip for a tight fit
Date: 24 Dec 1992 04:44:38 GMT
Organization: Centre for Information Science Research, ANU, Canberra, Australia
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: 150.203.20.12

In article <1h7g5uINNr0p@news.cerf.net>, jonesm@nic.cerf.net (Matthew Jones) writes:
|> the connecting rod fits too tight on the crankshaft.

Is the cap on the right way around ?
Although they look symmetric, you will sometimes find
that the con-rod cap is asymmetric (and usually has
marks on it to indicate which end is which).

Also, can you get a different bearing between the crank and the conrod ?
If not, can you reduce the thickness of the bearings ?

|> have a Merry Merry Christmas"

and you too.

-- 
John Barlow, Parallel Computing Research Facility, Australian National
University, I-Block, PO Box 4, Canberra, 2601, Australia.
email = John.Barlow@anu.edu.au
[International = +61 6, Australia = 06] [Phone = 2492930, Fax = 2490747]
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: radhika@june.cs.washington.edu (Radhika Thekkath)
Subject: How to tin-coat a Copper or Brass pan
Followup-To: rec.crafts.metalworking
Keywords: tin, copper, brass, pan
Organization: Computer Science & Engineering, U. of Washington, Seattle
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 92 06:23:58 GMT

We used a lot of Copper and Brass pans in India, which I think are coated with a
layer of tin on the inside. When the lining wears out I remember my mother would
take these pans to the market place, where a man in a small shop would re-coat it
with some metal and heat.
I don't exactly remember what he did, since its been 15 years since I saw this
procedure.

My question is, does anyone know what excatly this coating is, (I have assumed it
was tin). And what will I need to duplicate this procedure here in the US?

We have pans back at home, which are 100 years old belonging to my grandmother
and great-grandmother. I am begging my mom not to give them away or throw them
away. But, this means I have to bring them with me to the US. And to cook with
them, and not get poisoned, I assume I would have to maintain this coating on the
inside.

Thanks for any help.

radhika
(radhika@cs.washington.edu)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: tzb76@isuvax.iastate.edu
Subject: Re: Silver solder removing
Reply-To: tzb76@isuvax.iastate.edu
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames, Iowa
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 14:38:13 GMT

	In regards to introducing lead to a silver solder...
BEWARE! If the object is silver it could become severely pitted.
At high temps lead ruins silver.......tin might be a better
solution.

Paul
From: jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Question about this Newsgroup
Date: 1 Jan 93 21:07:59 MST
Distribution: world
Organization: University of Wyoming - Laramie, WY

In article <1992Dec31.222455.17872@i88.isc.com>, jeq@i88.isc.com (Jonathan E. Quist) writes:
> 
> Funny, I was looking for this group years ago, and never, ever saw
> trial.rec.metalworking...

Most sites do not get the "trial" hierarchy, for no explained reason.
"Trial" was supposed to be a new, improved method for creating newsgroups,
but since most sites did not accept them, the method died of neglect.
That's probably why you never saw it.

[regarding "crafts"]:
> That seems strange.  What's wrong with viewing onesself as a craftsman,
> and one's skills as a craft?

Oh, please, let's not dig this all up again!  To be brief, most of the
metalworkers considered "crafts" to be akin to basketweaving and textiles.
Metalworking can be viewed as a science, an engineering discipline,
and so on; something more than most people think of when they hear the
word "crafts".  Others disagreed, especially the net.gods who don't
know aluminum from luminance.  Also, an objection to "crafts" was that
there is a group rec.woodworking, not rec.crafts.woodworking, and that
the old group was trial.rec.metalworking, not trial.rec.crafts.metalworking.

>>Thanks go to Jim Kirk for handling the details.

Well, that's close.

> Why, did he set the Enterprise's phasers on stun, and blanket the
> usenet with phaser fire?  :')

Seems to take the same amount of energy to get a newsgroup started!

Jim Kirkpatrick
jimkirk@uwyo.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: towle@vssteg.enet.dec.com (Clark Towle Gunsmith)
Subject: Re: Silver solder removing
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1992 13:36:47 GMT


In article <1992Dec22.180815.20585@mcs.anl.gov>, shaffer@achilles.ctd.anl.gov (Michael A. Shaffer) writes...
>[Tip on removing silver solder deleted]
> 
>Great tip. Since I have a SS expert on the line, is it possible to
>SS a new sight mount onto a shotgun barrel without ruining the finish
>(and thus requiring a rebluing job)?

Mike, Its a piece of cake.

Square the barreled action so its plumb and level, locate the ramp, scribe 
around it then buff the barrel inside the scribe mark to remove the blueing.

 Buff the underside of the ramp down to bright metal also.

 Heat flux and tin the ramp with the silver solder. 

 Flux the ramp again as well as the barrel and clamp the ramp to the barrel, 
heat it up and wick the solder under the ramp.

 To keep the solder and flux from removing blueing on the barrel, coat the 
barrel and ramp liberally with soapstone, (welders marking stick) around the 
perimeter. Basically you coat everyplace you don't want the solder or flux to 
go. It will also act as a dam and will keep the flux from flowing where you 
don't need it.

 Installing ramps is easier when using the foil type rather than the wire 
type silver solder as all you need to do is cut the foil piece slightly 
smaller than the ramp then flux, clamp and heat.

 You'll need a hot torch to do it properly. Preferably oxy/acetylene.

 Good luck
From: jonesm@nic.cerf.net (Matthew Jones)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Tip for a tight fit
Date: 22 Dec 1992 16:36:14 GMT
Organization: CERFnet Dial n' CERF Customer Group
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: nic.cerf.net

The new group I must post!

In the current project: the connecting rod fits too tight on the crankshaft.
So I was looking for a way to grind the two parts to a better fit. 
I found "valve grinding compound". The stuff works great really fast though.
I think it would be too course for a cylinder, though.
Available at auto parts and hardware stores $2-3.

Just a suggestion.

Matthew Jones
jonesm@cerf.net

"Jack Frost roasting on an open fire. Chestnuts nipping at your toes...
have a Merry Merry Christmas"
From: Steve.Rasmussen@launchpad.unc.edu (Steve Rasmussen)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Black anodizing aluminum
Date: 24 Dec 92 04:52:07 GMT
Followup-To: rec.crafts.metalworking
Distribution: na
Organization: The Sattelite Of Love

In article <BzouKs.K2v@cup.hp.com> ld@cup.hp.com (Larry Dwyer) writes:
>Are there any recommendations for black anodizing aluminum that
>can be done with reasonably safe chemicals and a process that
>can be carried out in a garage?  I am machining cannon for
>a model of the Constitution and I would rather not paint them.
> Thanks > Larry Dwyer > ld@cup.hp.com

Birchwood-Casey, makers of gun related chemical products (bluing,
browning, stains,cleaners, etc..), have a product called Aluminum-Black
which is a "..fast acting metal touch-up for anodized aluminum and
aluminum alloys. A good chemical finish that will not produce a dimensional
change. Requires no heat or special equipment." I haven't used it but
I have'nt been disappointed witha B-C product yet.
    
   -- good luck,  Steve Rasmussen


 



--
   The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the University of
     North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Campus Office for Information
        Technology, or the Experimental Bulletin Board Service.
           internet:  laUNChpad.unc.edu or 152.2.22.80
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: shaffer@achilles.ctd.anl.gov (Michael A. Shaffer)
Subject: Re: Silver solder removing
Organization: Argonne National Laboratory
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 18:08:15 GMT

[Tip on removing silver solder deleted]

Great tip. Since I have a SS expert on the line, is it possible to
SS a new sight mount onto a shotgun barrel without ruining the finish
(and thus requiring a rebluing job)?

				mike
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: scot@fc.hp.com (Scot Heath)
Subject: Re: Atlas address
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 20:40:34 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Fort Collins Site
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.8 PL6]

If your Atlas mill was made by Clausing, as my Atlas lathe was, you can
contact their Service Center in Goshen, IN by calling (219)-533-0371.  I
found them to be excellent in their response to my needs.  They sent me
replacement part and accessory catalogs for my lathe and were very helpful
with all my questions.

Good Luck,

-Scot
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: cbl@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu (Chris Luchini)
Subject: Re: Cheap source for Air hardening tool steel
Reply-To: cbl@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu
Organization: High Energy Physics, University of Illinois, Urbana-Champaign
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 20:36:27 GMT

In article <1992Dec22.195211.28944@pb2esac.uucp>, kamooni@pb2esac.uucp (Ken Moonitz) writes:
>In article <Bzo01o.J18@news.cso.uiuc.edu> cbl@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu writes:
>What you should be asking for is 7/8" "drill rod".  And yes $60.
>is high.  KBC tools here in Calif has it for $16.70.... Ken


	Could you get me a phone number for KBC? I tried to send
	email but it bounced. If ayone else knows of places in the chicago area
	that would have that kind of stuff, I'm dying to know. Most
	of the places one finds in the yellow pages are not really
	oriented to machine shop supply. 
>
*1110 W. Green/Urbana IL 61801/217-333-0505/cbl@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu