HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: Chevy 194
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 92 20:45:34 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Wednesday, Dec 30 15:45:30
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          I removed a 250 L-6 from my project Camaro.  It needed work, but 
          ran OK.  To my surprise, the buddy who helped me yank it said he 
          knew some guys who would want it - GoKart circle track racers (or 
          something like it).  I thought he was kidding, but not so.  A man 
          came over that night to pick it up.  I went to see a race for 
          myself.  Those guys are nuts!  They run fast and knock the crap 
          out of themselves and each other. :-)
          
          Regards,
          Eric

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Posted by: ERIC WEBB 919-541-7896 <emory!epamail.epa.gov!WEBB.ERIC>
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: Oxygenated fuel.
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 92 19:11:34 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Wednesday, Dec 23 14:11:30
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-> Wow!  I thought that Gates was a first-line supplier.  Have they been
-> cheapening their products recently?

 I don't know.  I've had troubles with the hoses on my car, brought them
back to my favorite parts store (they also sold fully-automatic weapons
and other toys) and they replaced it free of charge.  The owner said
he'd check with his supplier about the problems (usually either turning
hard and cracking or turning into goo, either within a few months).
Alas, during the year-long hiatus after I got run over by a DWI, Johnny
sold out to a chain store and I never followed it up.

 I'm *hoping* we have a local problem with counterfeit hose.  If not,
I'd avoid Gates like a pit bull with AIDS.  I had had the same trouble
with hose bought from other local shops; practically everything in
central Arkansas comes through one of two main warehouses.
                                                                                             

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Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: 302 parts compatible?
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 92 19:15:01 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Monday, Dec 21 14:14:58
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I was wondering which parts off of a 302 would work on a 351 Windsor?
(distributor, manifolds, etc.)  Thanks.
Tom McClendon
gt7038d@prism.gatech.edu

----------
Posted by: emory!prism.gatech.edu!gt7038d (MCCLENDON,WILLIAM THOMAS)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Fluid clutch?
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 92 17:06:54 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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Posted-Date: Monday, Dec 28 12:06:51
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A friend would like to know if ford used a fluid clutch on the 91 F-150's?
I'm not sure why.  Thanks.
Tom McClendon
gt7038d@prism.gatech.edu

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Posted by: emory!prism.gatech.edu!gt7038d (MCCLENDON,WILLIAM THOMAS)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: Any alternatives to a Datsun differential
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 92 19:42:32 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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Posted-Date: Monday, Dec 21 14:42:29
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-> ratios.  Concours West in SOCAL might help you.  I am seem to recall
-> reading somewhere that the JAG differential is infact a Dana 44
-> internally.  Most I believe are posi from earlier e-type Jags also.

 I don't remember the model number any more, but I've also been told (by
a Brit rod builder) the Jag uses Dana guts.
                                                                                         

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Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: more 351 stuff
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 92 20:27:04 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Wednesday, Dec 30 15:27:01
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My post about the 351 SVO block from Summit - 0.060 over - should have read
"maximum overbore of 0.060".  Most of the other blocks (the ones that are
$1,200 and up) can be bored to 0.125 oversize.

When I re-read Dave Williams' reply, it looks like he also made a few 
suggestions about the do-it-yourself EFI.  Thanks, Dave.  Sorry about the
buildup of useless Great Malfunction stuff in your garage.  Can't help you,
though...

[ Well, one could turn one of the Grand Mal engines into an
air compressor.  Just open up half the intakes to atmosphere, put light
valve springs on the intakes so they act as checkvalves, remove all
lifters and header the output together through checkvalves in the sparkplug
holes.  Runs on half the cylinders and pumps on the others.  Optionally
rig up a valve lifter mechanism for the exhaust valves to make 
starting easier. I've seen this done before.  JGD]

Mike Jamison

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Posted by: emory!mars.lerc.nasa.gov!edwlt12 (Mike Jamison (ADF))
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: 302
Date: Fri, 01 Jan 93 20:39:32 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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Posted-Date: Friday, Jan 01 15:39:29
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-> What would you say is the rev limit of the 5.0W (3??ci)? Is it fitted
-> with a rev limiter/computer limiter?

 With the crummy little 302W heads, probably around 5000 before it gets
athsmatic.  With early 351W heads, up to about 6500.  With a B&A
manifold and 2C Cleveland heads, 8500.  With BOSS 302 heads, you're
unlikely to turn the engine fast enough to run out of air.

 I've run 302s hard at 6500-7000 with ported 351W heads, new factory
5/16 rod bolts, and polished stock cast rods.  I've never had a
mechanical failure, so I don't know where the weak point is.

 The bottom end on the 302 looks pretty wimpy, but you have to remember
the stroke is short, the parts are light, and there's not much load on
it.
            

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Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: iron to aluminum glide conversion
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 92 20:36:28 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Wednesday, Dec 30 15:36:25
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i have a 56 chevy that has a iron glide and i want to convert
it to a aluminum one or a turbo 350.  due to the failure of
my iron glide and high cost of rebuilding it by someone else
and my lack of time i think that the fastest way is the conversion.
first are there the same mounting holes on a aluminum glide as on
the iron ones?  if not does anyone fabricate a crosspiece that
goes in without drilling or welding to the frame (so i can put
the iron one back in at a later date).  any other advice?
thanks
dan stanger

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Posted by: emory!evolving.com!dxs
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: using O2 sensor for carb tuning 
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 92 03:34:56 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Tuesday, Dec 22 22:34:40
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> Date:  Tue, 22 Dec 92 13:54 EST
> From:  emory!tde.lth.se!leif (Leif Olsson)
> 

>Excuse me for asking a stupid question:
>Does leaded fuel damage the oxygen sensor?

>I usually use 98 octan leaded gas :-).

>[Absolutely.  The sensor uses a platinum catalyst just like a catalytic
>converter.  Lead will poison it.  Another insidious poison is silicone
>RTV.  Even the tiniest bit will plug the pores of the sensor.  The
>MFRs caution against using non-compatable RTV anywhere in the engine
>compartment.  JGD]


My $0.02.  Silicone sprays that some people use under the hood to keep
hoses, etc. looking pretty will also destroy an O2 sensor.


	-- Dan

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Posted by: Dan Malek <emory!widener!westford.ccur.com!dan>
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: RE: 351C trivia...
Date: Fri, 01 Jan 93 19:53:26 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Friday, Jan 01 14:53:20
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-> True, it's only running a quarter mile at a time, but that's going to
-> be me main application, so I'm not too worried about cylinder wall
-> thickness.

 Cylinder wall distortion can lose a lot of power.  The Cleveland is
infamous for that problem.

 By the way, I was reading a 1940 edition of a 1912 automotive guide
this morning.  There was a long section on cylinder boring, including
interesting machines that would bore the block while it was in the car.
Then it started talking about how the cylinder walls will flex slightly
under the boring bar, which doesn't hurt anything if you're boring, say,
a piece of pipe, but engine blocks commonly have upper and lower water
jacket decks, head bolt bosses, siamesed cylinders, etc.  They explained
how these areas didn't "spring", thereby causing low spots as the bar
passed.  The book then talked about reaming cylinders to size, which
they claimed had the same problem.  (the thought of a 4 inch diameter
reamer is kinda interesting...)  They felt the optimum solution was
*grinding* the cylinders to size.  Sounds quite reasonable, and I think
they have a point... except I'm not aware of any place currently selling
a cylinder grinder.  (Anyone?)


-> If it blows up, I'll go for the 351 SVO - which sells for $665 at
-> Summit (0.060 over block.  The other ones are about twice that
-> price).  Thinking about the amount of money I've sunk into this
-> project over the years, I wish I'd just done that to begine with -
-> the 4 bolt mains would be kind of nice...

 Yes, but a few years ago those blocks were $1800, not $665.  As for the
mains - have you spun any bearings with the two bolt block?
                                                               

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Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Tranny question.
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 92 17:59:31 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Tuesday, Dec 22 12:59:27
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Hi all,

	On my 83 Z-28, I thought the U-joints were on the way out, so  
this past weekend I got under the car for a look. What I found was  
lots of slop somewhere within the automatic transmissiln. I imagine  
the tranny is one of the 700r types (not sure of the model #). What  
can cause the slop in the tranny? I'm up for an eventual rebuild, but  
wanted to wait until I was ready to do the motor also to kill two  
birds with one piston.

				Scott

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Posted by: emory!phoenix.az.stratus.com!scol (Scott Colbath)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: Oxygenated fuel.
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 92 18:56:40 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Tuesday, Dec 22 13:56:34
X-Sequence: 3093
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Dave WIlliams writes:
" I'm *NOT* happy, though I can't prove the MTBE stuff did it.  It could
be a problem with the (just replaced) fuel lines decomposing; I've had
troubles with that before, even with name-brand (Gates) hoses."

Wow!  I thought that Gates was a first-line supplier.  Have they
been cheapening their products recently?

Bob Hale                                      ...!ucsd!btree!hale
...!btree!hale@ucsd.edu                       ...!ucsd!btree!hale@uunet.uu.net



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Posted by: emory!ucsd.edu!btree!hale (Bob Hale)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: 302 parts compatible?
Date: Sun, 03 Jan 93 00:58:40 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Saturday, Jan 02 19:58:37
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Hi Dave. How was your holiday?

Yeah I still have the 351BOSS rods, but they are the shortest of the 351
rods. The next longest are the 351W and then the 351Aussie. The aussie
rods mike out at 6.090" whereas the american 351C rods are 5.995 or so.

Did you see the article in Super Ford about the 358cid based upon a
302 block? It uses the M-6010-A4 302 block, a M-6301-B351 forged steel
crank, 5.4" cunningham steel rods and the usual mish-mash of parts.
The article has some interesting snips about oil passage restrictions 
that I found to be pretty informative. Puts out some good power!

***************************************************************
Millam E. Tackitt                        met@naucse.cse.nau.edu

1967 Cougar XR-7 271/289 4spd/CR 4spd
1968 Galaxie XL-GT 345/390 3-dueces and an Auto 
1953 3/4 ton Chevy pickumup truck
1968 Galaxie XL-GT 345/390 Auto (SPORT console)
***************************************************************

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Posted by: emory!naucse.cse.nau.edu!met (Millam Tackitt)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: 351C trivia...
Date: Fri, 01 Jan 93 19:33:49 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Friday, Jan 01 14:33:43
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-> believe these things to be necessary for most installations, BTW.
-> I've made a crude step drill that bores a stepped hole.  This thing

 Yeah, the place I'm thinking of sells one of those too, about $75 if I
remember right.  (dang... the memory goes first)

 Unless you specifically need the tapered seat, the most reasonable way
to do it would be to use a regular drill for the first hole, then come
in with a counterbore.  A helluva lot cheaper, and you can sharpen the
counterbore or just buy a new one for $7 or so if it gets dull.  Step
drills bite the big one.
    

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Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Chevy Exaust Maniforl Ques.
Date: Fri, 01 Jan 93 20:02:37 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Friday, Jan 01 15:02:32
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-> manifolds. The type I need just need to drop down an inch or so
-> before going into the common collector tube. But I need a manifold
-> with the same overall height so I don't have to cut up my exaust
-> system.

 You have the ram's horn manifolds now?  There's no Chevelle-style
dropped manifold that will match up to your exhaust pipes.  The ram's
horns are much better anyway.

 Your most reasonable solution is to buy an appropriate size piece of
brake line ($2 or so) at your convenient auto supply joint, insert it
into the block, and bent as required.  You might be able to use a tubing
bender and bend the original dipstick tube away enough as well.
                             

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Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: using O2 sensor for carb tuning
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 92 18:46:53 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Tuesday, Dec 22 13:46:46
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> For a 1-wire sensor, put it in the collector of your header, and read the
> voltage (between the wire and ground) with a high-impedance voltmeter,
> prefferably analog, but digital seems to work ok for me.  .45 volts is
> stoich, higher is rich, lower is lean.  I don't know what voltages
> correspond to theoretical rich peak power and lean peak economy.
> 

Excuse me for asking a stupid question:
Does leaded fuel damage the oxygen sensor?

I usually use 98 octan leaded gas :-).

[Absolutely.  The sensor uses a platinum catalyst just like a catalytic
converter.  Lead will poison it.  Another insidious poison is silicone
RTV.  Even the tiniest bit will plug the pores of the sensor.  The
MFRs caution against using non-compatable RTV anywhere in the engine
compartment.  JGD]
Leif
----------
Posted by: emory!tde.lth.se!leif (Leif Olsson)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: Chevy Exaust Maniforl Ques.
Date: Sat, 02 Jan 93 00:13:02 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Friday, Jan 01 19:12:59
X-Sequence: 3143
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Peter Sanders on The Hotrod List (hotrod@dixie.com) wrote:
: 
: 	Well let me tell you my dilema. I have a 1980 Monte Carlo that I just
: put mildly modified 305 into. The engine I removed was a 267. The swap went 
: great except for one thing, the dipstick went through the oil pan on the 267,
: but goes through the block right below the head on the 305. The original 
: manifolds go straight across the exaust ports and then down. In other words, I
: can't fit a dipstick around the manifold.
: 
: 	This car is my daily driver so I want cast iron manifolds. Iv`e looked
: in junk yards at all the Monte Carlos but they all seem to have the same 
: manifolds. The type I need just need to drop down an inch or so before going
: into the common collector tube. But I need a manifold with the same overall
: height so I don't have to cut up my exaust system.
: 
: 	Has anyone had a similar problem? Does an SS have the previously 
: described manifolds?.

I have a very similar problem.  I have swapped a '77 vintage 350 into an '82
Blazer.  The Blazer had a 305 with a dip stick on the passenger side part way
down the side of the block.  The 350 has the dipstick up by the head as in Peter's
305.  I too have the exhaust manifold problem.

I had resigned myself to the hassle of buying headers and fabricating exhaust.
If I can find a set of exhaust manifolds that will fit around the dipstick
tube, I would prefer that.  I can't use the exhaust manifolds taken off the '77
because they will not allow the use of the factory A/C brackets, different
heat riser vacuum valve setup, different air injection plumbing, etc.  I would
rather use the original exhaust pipes if possible.

Anyone out there have a suggestion?

DER

-- 
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
 Don Robinson    (602) 752-6466     Internet:  vlsiphx!donr@asuvax.eas.asu.edu

   ** Any resemblance between the above views and those of my employer, **

----------
Posted by: emory!dolphin.UUCP!donr (Don Robinson)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Water Injection
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 92 15:50:17 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Wednesday, Dec 23 10:50:02
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          Has anyone any practical experience using water injection to 
          eliminate detonation in high compression engines running on 
          unleaded pump gasoline?  Is it effective enough to allow the use 
          of 12.0:1 compression on 93 octane?
          
          The engine I am planning is an all-iron chevy 476 (4.350 x 4.000) 
          with a 9.3:1 ratio.  Should be plenty of power for my 68 Camaro.  
          But there is nothing like a thumping, high compression Rat engine 
          (unless it spends most of its time eating pistons).  Advice?  
          
          Regards,
          Eric Webb
           

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Posted by: ERIC WEBB 919-541-7896 <emory!epamail.epa.gov!WEBB.ERIC>
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: DIY engine computers
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 92 19:05:50 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Monday, Dec 21 14:05:46
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> -> Speed density based, with an O2 sensor for closed loop feedback.  All
> -> of the solenoids are plumbed into a single fuel rail which has a line
> -> to run to spray bars or discs which are normally mounted in the
> -> aircleaner.
>  Why not set the solenoid setup to run lean, then use the injector on
> closed loop as a correction device?

Maybe I was unclear, but thats how it does work pretty much.  6 solenoids,
2 gasoline style injectors, solenoids are a "course" adjustment,
injectors are "fine", and I'm not sure of the actual logic used for
the closed loop correction with the stock contoller, guess it
depends on the flow rates of the injectors compared with a single
solenoid to some extent.  My big problems are that I have two volumetric
efficiency curves (depending on whether or not the boost bypass solenoid
solenoids are closed), and even then they are really strange with the
centrifugal blower.  And unfortunately the MAP sensor is internal to the
controller and can't handle boost.   (Light Bulb!)  Guess I ought to
try adapting a GM 15psig map sensor.

> ----------
> Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
>  
> 
> 
> 


-- 
Jon Lusky
lusky@gnu.ai.mit.edu

 79 Rx-7 12A/Holley 4bbl
 67 Camaro/350/4spd (under construction)
 89 Jeep Wrangler/258 (currently self destructing)

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Posted by: emory!gnu.ai.mit.edu!lusky
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: Re: Any alternatives to a Datsun differential
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 92 23:44:03 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Wednesday, Dec 23 18:44:00
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Good information and good background on how Concours West in LA manages
to provide JAG rear ends with a wide variety of ratios and 
diferentials.
Mike Brattland

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Posted by: emory!nprdc.navy.mil!brattlan (CDR Michael Brattland)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod