HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: urf@icl.se (Urban F)
Subject: Re: ficus
Organization: None. On USENET I speak only for myself.
X-Alt.reply-Address: n.g.u.fredriksson.swe2001@oasis.icl.co.uk
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 05:46:31 GMT

gse@ida.liu.se (Goran Sedvall) writes:

>I'm a beginner and I shall buy my first plant today. I would
>try a ficus tree and they say that is a very good beginners
>bonsai.

Yes, most species of ficus can take a lot of punishment, and
still recover.

>Is there anything I realy need to know about this plant?

If you get a Ficus Retusa, already done as a bonsai, with
a thick trunk (not uncommon in Sweden), check that it has no
wire marks, as they will not grow away. (Goes for any tree.)

If it is planted in clay type soil, exchange it (carefully)
for some ordinary house plant soil. (They say in lots of books
that ficuses don't like bark in their soil, but one of mine 
who has grown very well sits in bark/compost soil.)

Give it lots of light. If it gets too little light, the 
leaves will grow large. Since this is a tropical tree, it
won't be harmed by constant conditions year round.

If you get a small immature plant, don't plant it in a small
pot. It should not go in a small pot until it has the height,
thickness and number of branches you consider "finished",
which can of course be a decade before it gets "beautiful".
--
 Urban Fredriksson   urf@icl.se
 "In order to make someone a nervous wreck, apologize while they still 
  haven't used their best arguments." -- Runer Jonsson
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
From: urf@icl.se (Urban F)
Subject: Re: altificial light gardening and some plants
Organization: None. On USENET I speak only for myself.
X-Alt.reply-Address: n.g.u.fredriksson.swe2001@oasis.icl.co.uk
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 07:07:38 GMT


bartlone@gemed.ge.com (Mike Bartolone 5-4266) writes:

>   This is from The Complete BONSAI Handbook by Darlene Dunton. So,
>has anyone on the net had some experience with artificial light?

I've practically got nothing but indoor (=tropical) trees, and where
_I_ live (Stockholm, 60 deg N), artificial light is a almost a must.
Even the south windows get very little light during the 5 hours of
overcast "daylight". (Not that I've got windows enough for my plants!:-)

kants_g@news.cs.odu.edu (George Kantsios) writes:

>I would switch to some type of ``grow'' light bulb though, just to make sure 
>your trees are getting enough light (right frequency/wavelength).

"Light bulb"?!! Heavens no! Light bulbs give off more heat than light,
and that can be very damaging. Use flouroscents. You can place those
close enough to give enough light without worrying about damaging your
beloved trees.
(I have heard that plants like the UV from halogen lamps very much,
but the heat would still be a serious problem.)
--
 Urban Fredriksson   urf@icl.se
 "In order to make someone a nervous wreck, apologize while they still 
  haven't used their best arguments." -- Runer Jonsson
From: mdobbins@tredysvr.Tredydev.Unisys.COM (Michael Dobbins)
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
Subject: Re: altificial light gardening and some plants
Date: 2 Oct 92 14:56:52 GMT
Organization: Unisys, A Series Networking, Tredyffrin, PA

In article <BvEvH6.G3n@cmptrc.lonestar.org> andy@cmptrc.lonestar.org (Andy Hart) writes:
>  It's been a while, but back in my younger days I had some experience
>  with artificial lighting... not for bonsai, but <ahem> different story.
>  You might want to see if you can find some VHO (very high output) or 
>  SHO (super high output) flourescent fixtures and gro-bulbs.  They are 
>  more expensive (unless you luck onto some as I did) and they do consume
>  more wattage, but they will put out _significantly_ more lumens of light.
>
>  They're hard to find.  Might check a specialty lighting store.  They may
>  even have some leftovers they will sell cheap.

VHO and other lights are commonly used in marine aquariums. Check out
aquarium equipment suppliers and mail-order places.
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
From: bartlone@gemed (Mike Bartolone 5-4266)
Subject: Still need answers...
Reply-To: bartlone@gemed.ge.com (Mike Bartolone 5-4266)
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Milwaukee,  WI
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 92 19:06:56 GMT


 Help out with the FAQ folks..there are still questions no one has
attempted to answer! No one will flame you if you make a mistake
in answering..because I frame most answers as 'opinions', unless
the answer has a verifiable, numerical answer based on scientific
research. So..read the FAQ, and send me your answers to the unanswered
questions...we could also use some more questions to flesh it out a bit.
						Mike
ps: Does any one have some suitable haiku about bonsai for some sigs?
--
##############################################################
## bartlone@last.med.ge.com 08:00-17:00 Mon-Fri my opinions ##
## are given to me by my boss...after that they are mine... ##
## except when my wifes decides otherwise...                ##
##############################################################

Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
From: m116180@cc.tut.fi (M{{tt{ Arto)
Subject: Re: start a bonsai in autumn... possible?
Organization: Tampere University of Technology, Finland
Distribution: alt.bonsai
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 92 15:53:44 GMT


In <C91JONHO.92Sep22090436@ide24.IDA.LiU.SE> c91jonho@IDA.LiU.SE (Jonne Hogstrom) writes:

>WHAT AM I SUPPOSED TO DO?

>I dont mind the process taking some 10 years before the tree looks
>like a bonsai, but I want to start it right now!

Try some tropical trees. Ficus is good. I have not 
tried this myself (I am doing it right now - I bought
one about month ago) but I have heard it will succeed.

Arto


| Arto Maatta     m116180@cc.tut.fi |				              |
|				    | 			"YES!"                |
| Orivedenkatu 8 D 86		    |                -DelMonte Man 	      |
| 33720  TAMPERE                    |					      |
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
From: mnknews@graphics.ap.mchp.sni.de (Monika Kreuz)
Subject: Re: What to do with some trees in winter.
Reply-To: Monika.Kreuz@graphics.ap.mchp.sni.de (Monika Kreuz)
Organization: Siemens Nixdorf Informationssysteme AG
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 92 10:13:19 GMT


Hallo Ken,

I have a red maple with long slits in the leaves, I think, it is a Japanese, .5m height. It is more than 5 years old - I don't know. 

In winter (Germany has nearly the same temperature) it stands outside. The pot has a width of .3m and a height of .15m and the material is plastic.

In winter I cover the earth in the pot with the old leaves of the tree. The tree stands not in the direct sun, and it stands on a windstill place, that it don't dry when the earth is frozen and it cannot get water from the earth.

When the earth is dry I pour it, but only when it is dry, that it don't became pudrid. 

In the garage, where you want to put the tree, I think, it would be too dark. When the tree is too warm in winter, it get little animals which will damage them (I dont't know the word).

Have fun,
Monika




------------------------ Monika Kreuz ------------------------
Siemens Nixdorf Informationssysteme AG, Muenchen  (SNI AP 153)
Tel.:   + 49 (89) 636-43061
E-mail: Monika.Kreuz@graphics.sniap.mchp.sni.de
From: barnett@farside.crd.ge.com (Bruce Barnett)
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
Subject: Fertilizer ( was Re: Bonsai going Brown)
Date: 27 Sep 92 16:25:39 GMT
	<83820001@hpcc01.corp.hp.com> <1992Sep24.051517.9893@ntg.com>
Reply-To: barnett@crdgw1.ge.com
Organization: GE Corp. R & D, Schenectady, NY

In article <1992Sep24.051517.9893@ntg.com> rjmical@ntg.com (RJ Mical) writes:
>   Meanwhile, I'm looking for suggestions regarding a general-purpose 
>   fertilizer for all of my bonsai.  Comments?  


I bought a commercial pellet called "Green Dragon". The bag was bigger
than I originally liked (about a pound), but I figure it will last me
for 10 years. It consists of green pellets that you place on top of
the soil. As you water the plant, the pellets slowly disolve. One
application will last for months. It is very gentle and should not
burn any plants.

I asked some dealers, and they suggested I also use a common
commercial mix like "Miracle Grow" every two weeks during the growing
season. (Some dealers use a mild mixture every day!)

--
Bruce Barnett <barnett@crd.ge.com> uunet!crdgw1!barnett
From: kevin@howdy.cc.columbia.edu (Kevin Harris)
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
Subject: Re: Help Finding the tree of my dreams on a K-mart budget -);
Date: 5 Oct 92 14:17:49 GMT
Organization: Columbia University

jamiller@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu writes:
|> I'd love to have any suggestions on maple's or pines that I can find
|> cheap and that won't die the minute I get it home in Kansas.
|> -- 

Insofar as "cheap" trees goes, assuming that you are looking for "starter"
material to train, I'm not sure that you can beat the prices of The Bonsai
Farm. I've placed two large (read: "lotsa trees and supplies that I can't get
locally") and have been very happy with what I've recieved: healthy, robust,
bug-`n-disease-free trees.

If you 're looking for "finished" (oxymoron) bonsai, I really can't offer any
suggestions. 

Regarding keeping the maples and trees alive in KS, that's easy: don't kill
`em. ;-)

kevin

Oh, yeah. Here's the info on The Bonsai Farm if you're interested:

Bonsai Farm
13827 Hwy 87 So.
Adkins, Texas 78101
(512) 649-2109

Their catalogs are US$3.00.
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
From: michele@apex.yorku.ca (Michele Marques)
Subject: Re: Canadian bonsai
Organization: York University, Help Services, CCS
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 18:54:31 GMT


I kept a juniper indoors successfully for about 2.5 years.  It
experienced a short winter inside during that month or two when it's
getting sort of chilly, but the apartment heat isn't on yet.  In my
first apartment I lacked airconditioning, so the tree didn't get too
dry/cold, but it died in my current appartment, as I had
airconditioning, but no humidifier.

--
Michele Marques                      | UUCP: ....!utzoo!yunexus!michele
Computing Help Services              | Internet: michele@apex.ccs.yorku.ca
Computing & Communications Services  | Bitnet:   michele@yuorion
York University                      | Voice:    +1-416-736-5800
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
From: kants_g@news.cs.odu.edu (George Kantsios)
Subject: Re: wintering
Summary: Not bored, just never tried it!
Organization: Old Dominion University, Norfolk, Va
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 17:33:56 GMT

>Next question..I must have boored some folks with my long post the 
>other day, so I'll get right to the question. Has any one ever
>bought or used a refridgerator to artificially winter bonsai tree's?
>Seems like it should work..modify the light switch to use a timer
>instead of the door, controlled temp and humidity..what else do you
>need?

The only problem that I can fore see is that some plants require fresh air.
I don't have a list to provide; however, I know that citrus trees are a group
that does require fresh air.  
If your trees are in one of the groups that need fresh air, a fan might do the trick.
I would switch to some type of ``grow'' light bulb though, just to make sure 
your trees are getting enough light (right frequency/wavelength).


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
If you only have a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail. (Maslow)

                     ______                         ___
                    /    __|                         |
                   /  \ /                            |
                      | |                            |
                      | |                            |
                      | |                            |
                      | |                            |
                      | |
                      | |                   George Kantsios (kants_g@cs.odu.edu)
                      | |		    Dept. of Computer Science
                      ---		    Old Dominion University, Norfolk VA	
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
From: andy@cmptrc.lonestar.org (Andy Hart)
Subject: Re: Bonsai going Brown, and I need help...(total beginer here...)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 05:26:14 GMT
Organization: CompuTrac Inc., Richardson TX

In article <1992Sep24.051517.9893@ntg.com> rjmical@ntg.com (RJ Mical) writes:
>
>Meanwhile, I'm looking for suggestions regarding a general-purpose 
>fertilizer for all of my bonsai.  Comments?  
>

  I have three suggestions which should be readily available.  

  1)  A half strength solution of Rapid-Gro.  Use this in spring & summer.
  2)  A half strength solution of Miracle-Gro Tomato Fertilizer.  Use this
      in Late Summer thru Mid Fall.  Switching to this is supposed to help
      the tree harden up for winter.

  3)  SuperThrive.  It's a B1 solution.  I know it's good for repotting and
      for rooting.  One local bonsai store recommended it.

  It's true that different trees have different requirements.  Some, like 
  azaleas and pieris japonica like acid soil, so you could use MirAcid. That's
  a fertilizer formulated for azaleas and acid loving plants.

  Best to read up on your tree's specific requirements.  When in doubt, dilute
  the fertilizer.  Stop fertilizing in mid to late fall to give the trees a 
  chance to rest thru winter.  Start up again in spring when they start to 
  bud out.

  By the way, are you RJ Mical of "Amiga Fame"?  If so, then here's a belated
  thank you.  Love mine!

-- 
+--------------------------------------------------------------------+
|   Andrew Hart                   |  CompuTrac, Inc.                 |
|   (214) 235-7161 x 5320         |  222 Municipal Drive             |
|   andy@cmptrc.lonestar.org      |  Richardson, TX  75080           |
+--------------------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
From: andy@cmptrc.lonestar.org (Andy Hart)
Subject: Re: altificial light gardening and some plants
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 21:53:30 GMT
Organization: CompuTrac Inc., Richardson TX

  It's been a while, but back in my younger days I had some experience
  with artificial lighting... not for bonsai, but <ahem> different story.
  You might want to see if you can find some VHO (very high output) or 
  SHO (super high output) flourescent fixtures and gro-bulbs.  They are 
  more expensive (unless you luck onto some as I did) and they do consume
  more wattage, but they will put out _significantly_ more lumens of light.

  They're hard to find.  Might check a specialty lighting store.  They may
  even have some leftovers they will sell cheap.

-- 
+--------------------------------------------------------------------+
|   Andrew Hart                   |  CompuTrac, Inc.                 |
|   (214) 235-7161 x 5320         |  222 Municipal Drive             |
|   andy@cmptrc.lonestar.org      |  Richardson, TX  75080           |
+--------------------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
From: andy@cmptrc.lonestar.org (Andy Hart)
Subject: Re: What to do with some trees in winter.
Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1992 06:27:34 GMT
Organization: CompuTrac Inc., Richardson TX

barnett@crdgw1.ge.com writes:
>
>The Complete Book of Bonsai
>Harry Tomlinson
>Abbeville Press Publishers
>488 Madison Ave
>New York, NY
>ISBN-1-55859-118-4
>

I have this book.  It is, by far, my favorite bonsai book.  I recommend it.


-- 
+--------------------------------------------------------------------+
|   Andrew Hart                   |  CompuTrac, Inc.                 |
|   (214) 235-7161 x 5320         |  222 Municipal Drive             |
|   andy@cmptrc.lonestar.org      |  Richardson, TX  75080           |
+--------------------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
From: bartlone@gemed (Mike Bartolone 5-4266)
Subject: altificial light gardening and some plants
Reply-To: bartlone@gemed.ge.com (Mike Bartolone 5-4266)
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Milwaukee,  WI
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 92 16:34:07 GMT


Over the weekend, I was given some information regarding my
junipers..I was told that they are outside plants, and therefore
will die..period. Now, I appreciate information, but I am also
a hopeless optimist. I dove into my books to see if there was
any mention (my 'library' is VERY limited!) of what could and
could not be grown inside. I just found the passage I was
looking for...
   "Nearly any plant considered tropical or semitropical can
be expected to thrive under artificial light and many others not 
necessarily tropical respond vigorously. Some, which require a 
period of cold, can serve a term in the insulated garage, then
brought in to resume growing.
    Ivies, FICUS, catlin and Hokaido elms, wild thyme azaleas
(This is one that requires a term of cold), junipers, chamaecyparis, 
boxwoods, broad-leaf hollies, miniature orchids, camellias, carissa, 
serissa, malpighia, red mangrove, and cryptomeria are only a few of 
the plants we have found to grow very successfully under artificial 
light. Cascade stylrs must be laid on their backs (righted only for 
watering) unless you install a few vertical flourescent tubes on a 
nearby wall."
   This is from The Complete BONSAI Handbook by Darlene Dunton. So,
has anyone on the net had some experience with artificial light?
I intend to get one or two light ASAP (probably the end of the week)
in an attempt to save my junipers..if nothing else, our regular
house plants will be getting better light...


--
##############################################################
## bartlone@last.med.ge.com 08:00-17:00 Mon-Fri my opinions ##
## are given to me by my boss...after that they are mine... ##
## except when my wifes decides otherwise...                ##
##############################################################

Newsgroups: alt.wais
From: whwb@ciba-geigy.ch (Hans W. Barz)
Subject: WAIS and DOBIS/LIBIS databases
Organization: Ciba-Geigy Ltd., Basel, Switzerland
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 12:18:18 GMT

We are interested to install a WAIS server on our MVS host to reach our
internal library system. This library system is run within an application
called DOBIS-LIBIS. This software is also around on a lot of places worldwide
- e.g. University of Southwestern Louisana, IBM Amalden Research, Technische
Universitaet Delft, Hoechst, Oxford University, University of Zuerich.

Has anybody gained experience to run a WAIS server using the data within the
DOBIS-LIBIS database ? Please inform me on that.

Hans W. Barz, R.1008.8.08, CIBA-GEIGY, 4002 Basel, Switzerland 
     Internet/uucp-Mail: whwb@CIBA-GEIGY.CH
     X.400: C=CH;A=ARCOM;P=CIBA-GEIGY;OU=CHCGBS30;S=BARZ;G=HANS;I=W
     Phone: +41 / 61 / 697 4520
     Fax: +41 / 61 / 697 3288
     Internal IBM-Mail: CHCGBS30.BARZHA1


Newsgroups: alt.wais,comp.infosystems.wais,demon.ip.support.pc
From: leveret@warren.demon.co.uk (Nick Leverton)
ReplyTo: leveret@warren.demon.co.uk
Subject: Re: PC WAIS clients
Distribution: world
Followup-To: comp.infosystems.wais
X-Mailer: cppnews $Revision: 1.17 $
Organization: Indexed; Access: Random.
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 17:56:00 +0000

In article <717312885snx@manor.demon.co.uk> paulf@manor.demon.co.uk (Paul Fawcett) writes:

>PCWAIS 1.02 the PC WAIS client, derived from the original
>PCWAIS by Faeiz Hindi at UPenn, assumes the presence of an
>Ethernet board and Clarkson Ethernet driver . My machine is
>a leaf node with dial-up Point-to-Point Protocol (PPP)
>access to the Internet, courtesy of a commercial subscription
>service.

I've never heard of a Clarkson/Crwnmyr(pardon my Welsh!) PPP driver, but
I'd also be very pleased to learn of one.

However there *is* a Clarkson SLIP driver, which ought to work - I want
to try it too, but haven't time :-(

ObDemonBit: Paul (and any other Hatchlings reading), you can get Cliff to
change your login type to 'ASK' which will give you choice of PPP or SLIP.

Followup to comp.infosystems.wais or demon.ip.support.pc as appropriate :-)

Nick Leverton
-- 
"Politician! Where's your credibility ?
Little did we know you were only into money and publicity"  -  Hugh Masekela.
Newsgroups: alt.wais
From: francois@welchgate.welch.jhu.edu (Francois Schiettecatte)
Subject: HyperWais 1.4
Organization: Johns Hopkins Univ. Welch Medical Library
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 13:16:10 GMT


Anouncing version 1.4 of HyperWais
----------------------------------


A new version of HyperWais is being released .You can pick it up on
mendel.welch.jhu.edu (128.220.59.42) in /incoming/HyperWais.sit.hqx.
The source is also available in /incoming/HyperWais.src.sit.hqx.


Hilights of this release include:

- A number of pesky bug fixes in the various components.
- A new (updated) README file.
- Greater use of ToolBox routines.
- Better memory management in the Wais Listener and 
the Hypercard(tm) XFCNs.
- Better test/sample code.


Included below is a description of the software.


Please read the 'README' file, the 'COPYRIGHT' and the 'Release Notes'
file that is in the HyperWais docs folder.


I hope you all enjoy this s/w and that you find it useful.

francois


Francois Schiettecatte
Software Engineer
Welch Medical Library
Johns Hopkins University
Internet: francois@library.welch.jhu.edu
Phone	: (410) 955-7581





Below is a diagram of how the software is layered.  There are a set of
basic routines which support basic connections to wais servers via
MacTCP. These routines provide very basic services such as connection,
disconnection, init, query and downloading data. The glue routines
provide an abstracted view of the basic routines and allow a user to
access wais services without having to worry about the protocol and
MacTCP. These are the routines that someone would use to integrate wais
in their products.

There is an FBA (called the wais-listener) which will listen out to
apple events and call the appropriate glue routines. This FBA can
either run on the same mac as the wais client (using the FBA that is)
or on another mac. The FBA will support any number of sessions either
from the same client or different client, and either from the same user
or different users on different mac.

At the other end, there are a set of stubs which implement the Apple
Events calling functions making it easier for people to integrate them
into their applications. And on top of that a set of XFCN for Hypercard
or others.

All this is written in a layered manner so that people who want to
integrate wais services into their applications can do so at various
levels.  Either one could use Apple Events, or call the glue routines
directly and just link in the C library into their application, or if
you want to program on the 'bare metal', you could go directly against
the basic routines.


	-----------------------
	|      XFCN           |
	----------------------- 
	|   Apple Events      |
	----------------------- 
		|
		|
		|
	-----------------------		This whole block
	|   Apple Events      |		is the wais listener
	----------------------- 
	|    Glue Routines    |
	----------------------- 
	|    Basic Routines   |
	----------------------- 
	|    WAIS protocol    |
	----------------------- 
	|    MacTCP           |
	-----------------------