HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: tmkelly@shootist.EBay.Sun.COM (Tk)
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
Subject: Re: Dying Juniper Bonsai, please help
Date: 6 Jan 1993 20:54:50 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Distribution: world
Reply-To: tmkelly@shootist.EBay.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: shootist.ebay.sun.com


In article 1iaj4cINNq16@hpsdlss3.sdd.hp.com, mattb@sdd.hp.com (Matt Bonner) writes:
> 
> I have a juniper bonsai that I bought at a nursery, and it seems
> to be dying.  Most of the needles have turned brown and are falling
> off, but otherwise the plant looks okay.  Is it actually dying or
> do they just do that during the winter? 

It's actually dying...  rapidly.  They are evergreens, and not supposed to be
brown or shed needles in quantity. 


> The sheet that came with it 
> said to leave it outside and water it often and give it partial 
> sunlight, and I think I have been doing all of those things, although
> maybe I have not been watering it enough lately.  However, I didn't 
> give it any plant food during the summer months, so I'm wondering if 
> maybe that's part of the problem.  Also, does anyone know how often is
> good to water them?  I was doing it daily, but lately it's been
> more like every 2 or 3 days.  The temperatures here lately have been
> lows around 35F/1C, highs around 65F/20C.

The absence of spring to autumn feeding might have contributed to the problem...
Don't "feed" it now, in it's 'poor' condition... it will probably hurt not help.

Sounds as if you were watering too frequently... (maybe causing root rot, but it 
could be pests such as spider mites or something)

Suggestion:  take it QUICKLY to a local bonsai shop/nursery and ask for help.
I lost a couple of trees (and one was a juniper) when I first got into bonsai,
and learned that an early trip to the nursery or bonsai shop can save the tree.
Yeah, I feel a bit foolish when I do this.. but I've saved trees! The shop owners
really do want you to have successful experiences, so they are very helpful.

BTW..
Regardless of what you hear, Juniper's are not always that easy for beginners to keep 
living and flourishing.  They need to dry out between waterings (which is difficult
for us as beginners to judge), and they need to be pruned to allow alot of sun and
ventilation (also a bit foreign to us as beginners). 


Good luck!

Tk
From: twollnik@aud.alcatel.com
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
Subject: Re: Dying Juniper Bonsai, please help
Date: 11 Jan 93 17:47:22 GMT

johnson@swings.enet.dec.com (Dennis M. Johnson) writes:


>Um, with brown needles and falling off your juniper is probably best classified 
>as dead.

>San Diego is pretty far south (compared to NH :-) Summer time I'd have watered
>it twice a day and also misted it. In NH I found that a watering in the morning
>and a misting in the evening was just barely about right for my juniper. And
>it definitely needed some plant food.

Well brown leaves don't neccesarily means it dead.  I had one branch that dried out, was
brown...and I assumed it was dead.  Yesterday I went into the store where I bought it.
They gave me alot of help with the plant.  

I was in the habit of watering my plant once a week.  I would fill up my kitchen sink
and let the plant soke in the water.  While soaking I would run water over the branches.

The store said that I had a fungus in the plant.  I got some "medicine" that will get rid of
the fungi.  The store said, otherwise, that the plant looks healthy.  I was watering it
enough.  They said I should stop running water over the leaves.  They moisture on the
branches gave the fungus an excellent place to grow.

I will post later, if needed the name of the fungus stuff that they gave me.  I hope
this all helps.

Ted

===============================================================================
| Ted Wollnik Jr                       | Go Black Hawks !!!                   | 
| twollnik@rdxsun11.aud.alcatel.com    | Belfour for Vezina..Roenick for Hart | 
===============================================================================
| I used to think that - everyone was the same                                |
| Walking around all the time - thinking all the same things                  |
| But I know it's not true, just to look at you                               |
| I can tell you're not that way                                              |
|               - Redd Kross                                                  |
===============================================================================
| OFFICIAL:  Net contact for the Dallas Freeze (and the rest of the CHL ??)   | 
===============================================================================

yeah I know!! but at least it HOCKEY !!!!
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
From: MARK@RICEVM1.RICE.EDU (Mark R. Williamson)
Subject: Re: My friend has this boxwood
Organization: Rice University  
Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1993 03:08:23 GMT

In article <1ia8s5INNjfk@male.EBay.Sun.COM>
tmkelly@shootist.EBay.Sun.COM (Tk) writes:
>Simple information on the Boxwood, as requested...
>(from... The Creative Art of Bonsai)
 
Odd, that differs in almost every respect from our experience with
boxwoods.
 
>Boxwood (aka Buxus)
>
>Native to Asia and the Mediterranean Basin - Evergreen
>
>Light?          some light, but NOT direct sun...  shade in summer
 
Ours stay in full Texas sun all summer.
 
>Temperature?    above 54 degrees (fine for indoors or outdoors)
 
Ours don't come in from the cold until well below freezing. [*]
 
>Ventilation?    shield from wind, avoid drafts
 
That sunny spot is outdoors and gets its share of breezes.
 
>Container?      deeper than other trees of similar size...
 
Well, OK, they got one right.
 
>Growth?         SLOW
 
Not real slow.  Give them half a point.
 
>Repot?          Every second year in spring (april/may) - trim roots by half
>
>Soil            equal portions of heath mould, leaf mould, loam, and course sand
 
We use a much more rapidly-draining mixture.  Guess that's how we get away
with so much watering.  This is also due to our humid climate.  Learning
what works in your climate is one of the real challenges of bonsai in the
United States because we have such a wide variety of climates, apparently
none of them like Japan.
 
>Pruning?        cut back new growth to two leaf pairs when it reaches 5 or 6 pairs
 
Trees bud vigorously after pruning.
 
>watering?       water copiuosly, but allow soil to dry out between waterings
 
We water most of our trees the same way, which is not the accepted practice,
but the only overwatering-related problem our boxwoods have is mushrooms in
the soil of one.  We think of them as companion plants.
 
>misting?        mist foliage daily
 
Oh really?  Maybe not needed in Houston humidity.
 
>feeding?        slow acting organic fertilizer in spring and autumn, feed once in
>                winter if it's kept in a warm climate (or indoors)...
 
Can't comment.  We don't discriminate among our trees in this area either.
Must be dumb luck.
 
[*] Kingville boxwoods (the ones with the teeny-tiny leaves) are a little
more sensitive and should be protected below 55F, etc.
 
Mark R. Williamson, Rice U., Houston TX; MARK@RICEVM1.RICE.EDU or @RICEVM1
(affiliation given for identification purposes only)
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
From: mch6@ellis.uchicago.edu (Huitzilopochtli)
Subject: Possibilities
Reply-To: mch6@midway.uchicago.edu
Organization: University of Chicago
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 14:54:25 GMT

For about 20 years, my father (Peter Hilty) incidentally, gave lectures and seminars on basic and advanced bonsai techniques and more generally, about the entire institution of the bonsai.  I was too young to involve myself on any significant level, and not until fairly recently (2-3 yrs.) have I done any work with them.  He worked with juniper, carissa, cypress, pomegranate, ch. elm, and many others.  Almost any woody-stemmed plant can be "bonsaied."  Concerning questions about pruning, a general rule of 





plant architecture is to visualize what a tree growing on a shoreline hill side or plateau would look like as it is affected by the winds that shape it, and then try to "push" your plant in that direction. It is an art that requires patience and some artistic interest.
	Bonsai are beautiful when done well, and even inspring when done only fairly well. Juniper-lets are inexpensive, and cuttings can even be taken from other trees (no, not someone else's bonsai.)

	If anyone has read any of my father's pamphlets, or knew of him (primarily in the cleveland/wooster ohio region) I would appreciate an email, as I enjoy meeting other people who like the art of bonsai. We still have a substantial collection of tress that are all older than 25 years, and many other youngsters.

Feliz an~o nuevo, Huitzilopochtli


Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
From: chai@gpu.utcs.utoronto.ca (Tippi Chai)
Subject: Broom style
Organization: UTCS Public Access
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 16:26:46 GMT

I have a question about the "Broom" style.  I've only seen examples
in pictures, so I don't know what it should look like from a top view.
Should it be more open (flat) towards the front and fuller (rounder)
towards the back?  or be more or less oval shaped?

        /-----\           /-------\
       /       \         /         \
i.e.  /_________\   vs   \         /  seen from the top?
         front            \-------/

Regarding fruit trees as bonsai, forget about citrus trees because
their trunks don't thicken enough to look proportional.
                        
-- 
**********"We all breathe the same air" KB
Tippi Chai	<chai@utcs.utoronto.ca || chai@utorgpu.bitnet>
Disclaimer: all opinions, pinions and onions expressed herein are solely mine.
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
Subject: Re: Dying Juniper Bonsai, please help
From: keith@intaud.usu.edu (Keith Sedgwick)
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 19:23:53 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Utah State University (USU)

In article <1iaj4cINNq16@hpsdlss3.sdd.hp.com> mattb@sdd.hp.com (Matt Bonner) writes:

>Hi,

>I have a juniper bonsai that I bought at a nursery, and it seems
>to be dying.  Most of the needles have turned brown and are falling
>off, but otherwise the plant looks okay.  Is it actually dying or
>do they just do that during the winter?  The sheet that came with it 
>said to leave it outside and water it often and give it partial 
>sunlight, and I think I have been doing all of those things, although
>maybe I have not been watering it enough lately.  However, I didn't 
>give it any plant food during the summer months, so I'm wondering if 
>maybe that's part of the problem.  Also, does anyone know how often is
>good to water them?  I was doing it daily, but lately it's been
>more like every 2 or 3 days.  The temperatures here lately have been
>lows around 35F/1C, highs around 65F/20C.

>I'd appreciate any suggestions, and also where to find the
>FAQ, if there is one.  I see several people asking...

>Thanks,
>Matt
>-- 
>Matt Bonner                  |  Email: mattb@sdd.hp.com
>Hewlett-Packard Company      |  Snail: 16399 West Bernardo Drive
>Ink-jet Components Division  |         San Diego, CA  92127-1899


Hi Matt:

	I have several junipers and they have been quite easy to grow.
My experience is that junipers need alot of sun.  I keep mine in full 
sun.  They also like to dry out between waterings.  If you have been 
watering it DAILY, before it dries out, it is probably too much.  
Especially, if it has been kept in partial shade.  Junipers also 
require a lot of sun to reach the interior branches to keep them 
healthy and sending out new interior growth.  If you look at some 
old landscape junipers that have been trimed, the inside is all dead 
and bare.  I assume it is from lack of sunlight and air circulation.  

	If your juniper has some branches that are shading other 
lower branches you might want to open it up a little bit and pinch 
back the growth on the upper branches.

	You also might want to check for red spider mites.  They loo-
oove junipers.  They will also make needles turn brown.  Good Luck.

					Keith

Keith Sedgwick
KEITH@INTAUD.USU.EDU
From: ceci@lysator.liu.se (Cecilia Henningsson)
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
Subject: Olea europea for bonsai?
Keywords: olea europea, olive, species
Date: 10 Jan 93 14:40:12 GMT
Organization: Lysator ACC at Linkoping University

I've recently succeeded in sprouting som olive seeds. They are
supposed to be true species _Olea_europea_, i.e. the olive used for
food. Somewhere I had seen that they could be trained as bonsai. Is
this correct? Any tips, or is the general tip "Get some books."? In
one of the pots there are two seedlings growing together.

So far I've followed the advice from the FAQ to treat them as regular
seedlings. There's not a lot I can do at this point, they have just
one pair of leaves apart from the cotyledones (cotyledone = very first
leaf or pair of leaves, often different from later leaves).

--Ceci

--
=====ceci@lysator.liu.se===========================================
Linkoeping, Sweden features a medieval dome, an open-air museum and a
museum of aerial warfare. Its university has 7000 undergraduate
students, studying mainly technical and medical subjects.
From: sorita@fhl.fujitsu.co.jp (Megumi Sorita)
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
Subject: A Happy New Year
Date: 6 Jan 93 06:24:15 GMT
Distribution: alt.bonsai
Organization: Fujitsu Ltd., Tokyo, Japan.


A Happy New Year!

Thank you very much for your answers, everybody!

In Japan, we have several books on bonsai.
I hope I can try to post some articles seems to be helpful for us this year.
It's hard for me to write in English, so 
I wonder I can translate information smoothly,,, 
I myself have no experience of bonsai, but it's my pleasure to see 
many trees/bonsais of my neighbour's.

I asked , "What's bonsai?" and some people answerd, 
"it's trees grown in pots", so I'm going to write about them first.
I'll write about flowers or big trees later.

Megumi Sorita

sorita@fhl.fujitsu.co.jp
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
From: an1411@anon.penet.fi (Star Rider)
Subject: The keeper of the alt.bonsai FAQ
Organization: Anonymous contact service
X-Anonymously-To: alt.bonsai
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 16:33:40 GMT

Happy New Year folks..I'm posting this from an annon poster since no one
seems to have gotten my other posts...here is the current status of
my access problems...

I have found two reliable sources of new feed. One is temporary, the
other is more permanent and should be active by the 21st of this month
(based on info I got from the system). Until then I will be able
to read the news in the evening from this other site. I will not
be able to post directly until the "permanent" account comes on-line.

If any of you ever experience feed problems, please copntact me and I'll
help you find an alternate..I don't want to just post it even though I
got my info from an annon ftp site...don't want to "kill the goose that
lays the golden eggs" so to speak by flooding it...

I expect to post the FAQ from this annon account around 12:00noon local time
today (approximately 90 minutes from now.) (12:00 noon Central Standard Time)
or about 6:00pm CUT (Coordinated Universal Time..formerly GMT) January 3rd.
Until then...
                                                 Mike Bartlone
                                                 bartlone@gemed.ge.com
                                                 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
To find out more about the anon service, send mail to help@anon.penet.fi.
Due to the double-blind system, any replies to this message will be anonymized,
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Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
From: kdm@Rational.COM (Kent Mitchell)
Subject: FAQ incomplete
Organization: Rational
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8]
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 16:33:04 GMT

When the FAQ arrived at our site it seems incomplete (we did get all five
parts posted) but htere are references in the FAQ to other information
within the FAQ and I cannot find it anywhere..  Maybe I'm mistaken
and that is all there is.

Specificaly, I find a reference in the contributer section that list
contributions of "supplier listings" and addresses for various
organizations but I cannot find the listings within the FAQ.


If Mike wants to e-mail me the whole FAQ, I'll post it from our site.  I'll
send him mail and ask.

Kent Mitchell
Rational

My views are my own.
From: cs688@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Michel Bartolone)
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
Subject: I'm back!!!
Date: 10 Jan 1993 00:45:33 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


I'm back! I've got this new account on Cleveland-Freenet and
will try posting the FAQ from here..I may have to reformat it
to fit into the 65 character per line limit, but thats not a
big deal. Glad to see you all kept things going while I was
missing.
    
By the way..how would you all feel about an attempt to move
alt.bonsai to rec.arts.bonsai, or rec.gardens.bonsai? I
thiink we'd get better propagation of the group, and with
better propagation, more readers/contributors. We are
currently only reaching (according to the newgroups folks)
about 46% of usenet sites, and I think that could be due
to it being an alt group. Just an idea..you can send
mail to me here, or at my other regular account (the one
listed in the last FAQ). I want to get the group
behind the idea before attempting to do the RFD/CFV stuff
to save time and work and head aches..
                                           Mike

.


:wq
~w
~
/s
\s
!
From: ct076@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Michael T. Loos)
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
Subject: Chinese Elms
Date: 9 Jan 1993 22:09:23 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc10.ins.cwru.edu


I'm Going to be starting Chinese elms from cuttings this year.
Last year I had moderate success with growing them from seed, but 
I found a particularly nice tree in the wild and I'd like to
get a few clones growing. (The seeds were from the same tree.)
I've read Dirr's manual about the tree, but he doesn't really cover 
taking cuttings. (Maybe the propagation manual does but I don't
hhave a copy of that.)  Adams' Bonsai Design etc. gives some 
additional info., but doesn't really give a time frame.  

       1.  Softwood vs. Hardwood.  Which is better? easiest?
       2.  When is the best time to take hardwood cuttings?
           I live in Cleveland, Ohio.  Most of the area is
           zone 5 with parts being zone 6 (USDA)  
       
I've got enough rooting hormones to choke a cat. (I do like cats)
        
       3.  Which strength is best? IBA 1.6 , 3.0 , or 4.5 %

I'd like to try  U. carpinifolia from cuttings. Will it be the 
same treatment?  How 'bout  Juniperus ch. Blaauw?

Suggestions??

Thank you 
Michael Loos
ct076@cleveland.freenet.edu
From: tmkelly@shootist.EBay.Sun.COM (Tk)
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
Subject: Re: Bonsai books for a beginner?
Date: 4 Jan 93 21:32:16 GMT
Reply-To: tmkelly@shootist.EBay.Sun.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
NNTP-Posting-Host: shootist.ebay.sun.com


One of the best books for Beginners on techniques of creating bonsai is...

	Bonsai Techniques Volume I by John Naka ($25-$30)

Care and maintanence is a slightly different topic... what I've done is sought
out books that detail the trees I'm interested in learning about.  I've had very
good luck with...

	The Creative Art of Bonsai  by Isabelle and Remy Samson
	Bonsai, the Complete Guide  by Paul Lesniewicz 
	
There are others listed in the FAQ, and everyone has their favorites...


IF you don't want to spend the money on text, try looking at the Bonsai Today
magazines... about $8 each (there are 21 of them so far, and back issues are
mostly available).  Very interesting information, but not always pertinent to
your most pressing needs.

Good luck.

Tk
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
From: ceci@lysator.liu.se (Cecilia Henningsson)
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
Subject: Re: I'm back!!!
Date: 10 Jan 93 14:33:34 GMT
Organization: Lysator ACC at Linkoping University

cs688@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Michel Bartolone) writes:

>I'm back! I've got this new account on Cleveland-Freenet and
>will try posting the FAQ from here..I may have to reformat it
>to fit into the 65 character per line limit, but thats not a
>big deal. Glad to see you all kept things going while I was
>missing.

When reading the faq, what struck me, were the un-answered questions.
I'll repeat them here. Maybe someone could answer them now. I would
very much want to know the answers/opinions on the first and third
questions primarily.

	Q: I have trouble finding the 'right' pots for bonsai.
	   (Either unavailable or too expensive) Are there
	   alternatives?

	Q: I assume that the time & # of times to prune the
	   trees/roots vary with the latitude. Anyone have data on
	   that?

	Q: What are some good tools for beginners to purchase?
	   They're rather expensive if you get true bonsai tools.  It
	   would be a shame to buy a $45 trimmer and then realize that
	   it's only used during odd prodedures or only for specific
	   types of trees/styles.

>By the way..how would you all feel about an attempt to move
>alt.bonsai to rec.arts.bonsai, or rec.gardens.bonsai? [deletion]

You will have trouble getting rec.gardens.bonsai accepted, as it would
require the renaming of rec.gardens to rec.gardens.misc, if the
current net.policy is to be followed. Rec.arts.bonsai sounds fine,
though. There are a lot of sites who don't get alt-groups. 

>:wq
>~w
>~
>/s
>\s
>!

Silly editor, was it? ;)
--Ceci
--
=====ceci@lysator.liu.se===========================================
The average lenght of daylight in Linkoeping, Sweden, during the
vegetation period is 16 hours.  The half of that is sunny. The
vegetation period lasts from early April to late September.
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
From: Pete Dalidowicz <pdalidow@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Zelgova Bonsai
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1993 17:25:25 GMT
X-Mailer: ELM [version 2.3 PL11]

I recently had a zelgova bonsai given to me and was wondering about its care.  
I have been looking for books on it and can not find any.  I know it needs to 
be watered frequently and misted but I need information on pruning.  Can anyone
help me out? send replies to pdalidow@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu

                              Thanks, "Pistol" Pete Dalidowicz
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
From: an1411@anon.penet.fi (Star Rider)
Subject: Parts 3 and 4 of the FAQ
Organization: Anonymous contact service
X-Anonymously-To: alt.bonsai
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 15:59:07 GMT

Thanks to a nice letter I got from Michele Morin (thanks Michele!!)
I found that the annon posting host dropped chunks of parts 3 and 4
of the FAQ (due to the methods they use for removing the signatures
from messages..). I think it would be MUCH easier if one of you would
drop me a line and I can e-mail the FAQ to you to post..either whole,
or in pieces..luckily it should only be about two more weeks until I
get my new account! 
BTW...is it getting close to time to plant seeds for an early start (ones
you have been winterizing in the refridgerator)? 

                                                   Mike
                                              bartlone@gemed.ge.com
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
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