HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: morganh@atlastele.com (Morgan Hall)
Subject: Re: How to tin-coat a Copper or Brass pan
Keywords: tin, copper, brass, pan
Organization: Atlas Telecom Inc.
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1992 15:50:26 GMT

In article <1992Dec29.062358.306@beaver.cs.washington.edu> radhika@june.cs.washington.edu (Radhika Thekkath) writes:
>We used a lot of Copper and Brass pans in India, which I think are coated with a
>layer of tin on the inside. When the lining wears out I remember my mother would
>take these pans to the market place, where a man in a small shop would re-coat it
>with some metal and heat.
>I don't exactly remember what he did, since its been 15 years since I saw this
>procedure.
>
>My question is, does anyone know what excatly this coating is, (I have assumed it
>was tin). And what will I need to duplicate this procedure here in the US?
>

You are correct, it is tin.  You should be able to go to the Art department
of your school and find the person in charge of jewelry and metalsmithing.
Usually there will be a student working on coppersmithing who is competent
to re-tin cooking vessels.  

I spent 2 years as a T.A. in jewelry and metalsmithing at the University of
Oregon in Eugene and during that time we had several requests to re-tin
copper and brassware.

Morgan

(Oh, hell, I might as well come out of the closet --
  Morgan Hall MFA 1972 U of O -- jewelry & metalsmithing)


Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: eastick@ramsey.cs.laurentian.ca (Doug Eastick)
Subject: Re: Looking for SKF
Organization: Dept. of Computer Science, Laurentian University, Sudbury, ON
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 05:46:12 GMT

cbl@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu (Chris Luchini) writes:

>Does anyone know the US distributor for SKF
>machine tools? I'm looking for a 15mm x 1mm thread pitch
>taper and plug tap. They supposidly have it in stock.

Call any local industrial supplier.  We have several in town but only
certain ones carry SKF.  If the distributors don't have it in stock in
Sudbury, they get it Courier'd from Toronto overnight (from SKF Canada).

Check the yellow pages under industrial supplies / tools / 
>-c
>*1110 W. Green/Urbana IL 61801/217-333-0505/cbl@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu 
-- 
Doug Eastick -- Sudbury, Ontario
From: jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Bench-top finishing
Date: 30 Dec 92 16:26:44 MST
Distribution: world
Organization: University of Wyoming - Laramie, WY

I'm about to order a bench-top for a bench for a small (8") metal lathe,
and have settled on the laminated maple variety.

But I'm not sure how to finish the top (or bottom).  One method is to
occasionally apply an oil or oil finish.  The other is to seal the thing
up tight with a clear varnish.  I'd like to keep it sealed against stains
caused by cutting fluid drips, and so on.  But in Wyoming, there is a more
insidious threat:  the humidity is so low, especially in winter (15 to 20
percent most of the time), that butcher-block tables often split apart
because the wood dries out.

Any thoughts?  I note that the top and bottom may have different
considerations, and thus oil top with varnish underside might be
a possibility.  The bench frame does allow access to most of the
underside without removal.

Jim Kirkpatrick
jimkirk@uwyo.edu
From: kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM (John Kopf,D,6305)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Oriental Gong from Sheet Steel
Date: 25 Dec 92 00:20:38 GMT
Reply-To: kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems

You might try books on making armor...such as the "best of the Hammer" series (which
Centaur Forge carries).

You might also check to see if there is a local group of the Society for Creative
Anachronisms in your area...they recreate the middle ages, and often make their own
armor.

A local expect in making armor is more valuable than any number of Email responses.

John Kopf

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: donp@mail.boi.hp.com (Don Peterson)
Subject: A lathe question for wily old machinists
Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1993 17:41:36 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard
Keywords: lathe, machinist


This is for you career machinists:

I have a 12" Clausing lathe that I've used over the last 20 years
as a hobbyist machinist.  The lathe's bed is worn near the
headstock and thus the cutting tool can dip 0.003 inches or so, so
I wind up with a slightly convex surface when I try to turn a
perfect cylinder (the tailstock is properly adjusted).

Is there any expedient way to effectively get rid of this wear
_without_ grinding or scraping the ways?  I'm looking for a trick
that a busy machine shop would use when they couldn't afford the
time to scrape or grind the ways.

Please email me; if there's enough of a response, I'll summarize
to the net.
From: okunewck@psuvax1.cs.psu.edu (Phil OKunewick)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Silver solder removing
Date: 22 Dec 92 23:02:20 GMT
Organization: Random, at best

shaffer@achilles.ctd.anl.gov (Michael A. Shaffer) writes:
>[Tip on removing silver solder deleted]
>
>Great tip. Since I have a SS expert on the line, is it possible to
>SS a new sight mount onto a shotgun barrel without ruining the finish
>(and thus requiring a rebluing job)?

   Can't say, but somebody in the hunting newsgroup might know.  I
don't know whether the bluing will take the heat or not.  (Do you have
a junk piece you can try it on?)  I'd also be concerned about doing a
sloppy job with too much extra solder.  Just as a guess, the bluing
may prevent the solder from sticking - scrape away only where you want
solder, and let the blue mask the rest.  But this is only a guess.

   I once silver soldered a ramrod clip onto an unblued cap-and-ball
revolver barrel, and hot-blued the barrel afterwards.  Dry hot blue
salts are available from Dixie Gun Works (just add water).  The
solution boils at around 300 degrees or so, well above the boiling
point of water, and corrodes everything in the room.  I used a coleman
stove outdoors to keep the kitchen pretty.


   As can be seen from the followups, I don't work with jewelry at
all.  It doesn't surprise me that lead solder will pit the fine pieces
though, considering how rapidly it attacks silver solder.  I use
silver solder on non-jewelry metals where strength is needed but
brazing is too hot.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: Dale@sol.cs.wmich.edu (Dale Gee)
Subject: Re: Firepot on a forge (what is it for)
Organization: Western Michigan Univ. Comp. Sci. Dept.
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1993 02:47:19 GMT

You can build one out of a brake drum and some pipe with not much trouble.


Use the drum for the fire pot. attach the pipe to the hole then put a blower
on the end of the pipe.     

I made gas forege for about 100 bucks. I found the plans in a Michigan ArtistianBlack Smith Associaton news letter. 

One you gas. you never go back to coal:)

Dale


Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: caastanl@atlas.cs.upei.ca (Alan Stanley)
Subject: Re: Oriental Gong from Sheet Steel
Organization: University of Prince Edward Island
  
  
  
  
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 17:26:11 GMT

Let us all know how your project turns out.

Alan Stanley, Queens County Blacksmith Shop
From: brindley@maxwell.ECE.ORST.EDU (Mike Brindley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to tin-coat a Copper or Brass pan
Keywords: tin, copper, brass, pan
Date: 30 Dec 92 07:20:31 GMT
Organization: Society for Putting Things on Top of Other Things
NNTP-Posting-Host: maxwell.ece.orst.edu

Is that what tinkers used to do?

-- 
--> Mike Brindley
    brindley@ece.orst.edu
From: hes@unity.ncsu.edu (Henry E. Schaffer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Mail Order Suppliers
Date: 31 Dec 92 02:14:48 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: North Carolina State University


  No one has mentioned:

Harbor Freight Tools
3491 Mission Oaks Blvd.
Camarillo, CA  93011-6010
800 423 2567

  They mostly sell cheap tools.  Usually cheap = inexpensive, 
sometimes cheap = junky.  All (or most all) imported.  They
are best for items which have a lot of metal in them and for
which fine/precision is not your main objective.  They have
really great buys on anvils, cold chisel sets, screwdriver
sets, tinsnips, crowbars, ... and free shipping (other than 
a $2.95 handling fee) for orders over $50.

--henry schaffer
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: whit@carson.u.washington.edu (John Whitmore)
Subject: Re: Green copper
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1992 03:24:31 GMT

In article <1hal1oINNgur@msuinfo.cl.msu.edu> Eric Kasten writes:
>Ok, here's a question for you folks.  Sometimes on copper metal	
>sculptures you'll find a finish which is sort of a rough green
>substance (maybe somesort of copper oxide?)  

	The name for this kind of patina is 'verdigris'
(check a dictionary for details).

	It is common practice to treat copper roofs with
ammonium sulphate to form the green color quickly; it is not
exactly an oxide, and simple weathering sometimes does not
do the trick.

	John Whitmore



Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: morganh@atlastele.com (Morgan Hall)
Subject: Re: Tip for a tight fit
Organization: Atlas Telecom Inc.
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 15:44:02 GMT

In article <1h7g5uINNr0p@news.cerf.net> jonesm@nic.cerf.net (Matthew Jones) writes:
>The new group I must post!
>
>In the current project: the connecting rod fits too tight on the crankshaft.
>So I was looking for a way to grind the two parts to a better fit. 
>I found "valve grinding compound". The stuff works great really fast though.
>I think it would be too course for a cylinder, though.
>Available at auto parts and hardware stores $2-3.
>

Another source for abrasives:  Try a local rock shop.  They generally have
graded silicon carbide used in rock tumblers -- 100g 220g and 600g is
common.  I'd guesstamate that valve grinding compund is closer to 100 grit
than any of the others.  600 puts a nice pre-polish on metal and will 
remove small amounts.
From: djt@merlin.caltech.edu (David Thompson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Clock parts
Date: 27 Dec 1992 21:02 PST
Organization: California Institute of Technology
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: merlin.caltech.edu
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    

Karen,

	Quartz clock mechanisms, hands, and other parts can be obtained mail
order from a company called Klockit. Sorry, I do not have their address here,
but they advertise all of the time in most (if not all) woodworking magazines.
I have had good luck with this company, they send stuff quickly and never a
problem with any of my orders. They have everything from small, inexpensive
movements to all-out grandfather clock guts. E-mail if you need an address,
and I'll get it back to you (or post it if others are interested?). Good Luck!
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: caastanl@atlas.cs.upei.ca (Alan Stanley)
Subject: Re: Looking for SKF
Organization: University of Prince Edward Island
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 17:18:47 GMT

Alan Stanley, Queen's County Blacksmith Shop
From: kludge@grissom.larc.nasa.gov (Scott Dorsey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Silver solder removing
Date: 23 Dec 1992 01:07:47 GMT
Organization: NASA Langley Research Center and Reptile Farm
NNTP-Posting-Host: grissom.larc.nasa.gov

In article <1992Dec22.145954.5210@atlastele.com> morganh@atlastele.com (Morgan Hall) writes:
>
>A word of caution -- if the object you are soldering is silver, lead/tin
>solders will dissolve the silver!  I've managed to destroy several pieces
>of jewelry with a fragment of soft solder that mysteriously got onto a
>surface that was supposed to be highly polished.  Cleanliness pays.

No problem, just use bismuth rod instead.
--scott
From: jb@falstaff.MAE.CWRU.Edu (Jim Berilla)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: niobium, titanium (Was Re: Silver solder removing)
Date: 23 Dec 92 15:57:32 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio, USA
NNTP-Posting-Host: falstaff.mae.cwru.edu

In article <1992Dec22.145954.5210@atlastele.com>, morganh@atlastele.com (Morgan Hall) writes:

|> Does anyone know of a source for niobium?  I've heard that you can anodize
|> it in an alkaline solution and get some interesting surface colors.

You can anodise titanium and get interesting colors.  With a lead cathode and
dilute sulfuric acid electrolyte, the colors go from yellow to gold to blue to
purple to light transparent blue as the anodising time increases.

The surface is sensitive to oils.  On a purple surface, it's easy to get
gold fingerprints just by touching the surface.

-- 
      Jim Berilla / jb@falstaff.MAE.cwru.edu / +1 216 368 6776
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: danr@crash.cts.com (Dan Rubesh)
Subject: Re: Question about this Newsgroup
Organization: CTS Network Services (crash, ctsnet), El Cajon, CA
Date: 02 Jan 93 23:09:11 PST

In article <1992Dec31.222455.17872@i88.isc.com> jeq@i88.isc.com (Jonathan E. Quist) writes:
>In article <POLLACK.92Dec31164918@dendrite.cis.ohio-state.edu> pollack@cis.ohio-state.edu writes:

>>rec.woodworking, and one cantankerous machinist was so incensed at
>>having to accept "craft" in the middle, that he almost blew the whole
>>thing by flaming away at the internet oligarchs in news.groups.
>
>That seems strange.  What's wrong with viewing onesself as a craftsman,
>and one's skills as a craft?

Not a damn thing!.. I've been in the machinist trade for a long time
(journeyman 1963) and have _always_ viewed my skills as 'craft'..
That's _my_ $0.27 worth..

>
>>Thanks go to Jim Kirk for handling the details.
>
>Why, did he set the Enterprise's phasers on stun, and blanket the
>usenet with phaser fire?  :')
>-- 
>Jonathan E. Quist                              Lachman Technology, Incorporated
>jeq@i88.isc.com  '71 CL450-K4 "Gleep", DoD #094        Naperville, IL
> __       There's nothing quite like the pitter-patter of little feet,
> \/                   followed by the words "Daddy!  Yay!"
From: amichals@ieeefin.ieee.org (Alex Michals)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Tube Bending Equipment
Date: 29 Dec 92 13:04:31 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: IEEE Service Center, Piscataway, NJ
Originator: amichals@ieeefin.ieee.org


     I am looking for a source to purchase a pipe/tube bender.  During
     the winter months I want to fabricate a cooler seat rack and some
     railings for my boat and will be using 7/8" and 1" Aluminum or
     Stainless tubing. If someone knows of a source for this type of
     bending equipment please e-mail me with information.  I have seen
     benders available for up to 5/8" locally but can't locate one
     for my needs.  Appreciate any help !!


     Thanks,
     Al
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond)
Subject: Re: Silver solder removing
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 92 23:14:34 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.

shaffer@achilles.ctd.anl.gov (Michael A. Shaffer) writes:

>Great tip. Since I have a SS expert on the line, is it possible to
>SS a new sight mount onto a shotgun barrel without ruining the finish
>(and thus requiring a rebluing job)?

No.  

Sorry for the short answer but real silver soldering, as opposed to silver
bearing soft solder, requires dull red heat and the flux very
agressively removes surface contaminations.  Blueing goes bye-bye.

John

-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC               |Interested in high performance mobility?  
Performance Engineering Magazine(TM) | Interested in high tech and computers? 
Marietta, Ga                         | Send ur snail-mail address to 
jgd@dixie.com                        | perform@dixie.com for a free sample mag
Need Usenet public Access in Atlanta?  Write Me for info on Dixie.com.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: jmorton@euler.Berkeley.EDU (John Morton)
Subject: Re: Need book on different metals
Organization: University of California at Berkeley
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 20:30:15 GMT

In article <wwebster-221292123630@47.220.4.59> wwebster@bnr.ca (Bill Webster) writes:
>I'd like to find a book which lists the metal numbers,
>like T6062 (or whatever) and give a description of
>its attributes.

The American Society for Metals publishes various reference books which
are used in my shop - a good thing to find in the library of an
engineering school.  The standard machinists' reference also has
the basic info; it is called Machinery's Handbook and costs around $50.

For publications which take the slant of doing it at home, look for
British books and pamphlets, e.g. MAP (Model & Allied Publications).

>I can't always get what I need this way.  Even if I
>do find out the metal type to use, where would I get
>some of the exotic materials?

The materials used in model projects (and almost everything else)
are really not very exotic, which is to say that most suppliers of
metals carry an assortment which covers most of the properties
which can be attained by alloying.  The more specialized and
expensive alloys tend to be available in a more limited range
of shapes and sizes, e.g. 7000 series high-strength aluminum 
alloys.

Any major supplier will have (as an example) an aluminum which is
strong, one which bends easily, one which welds easily, one which
resists corrosion.
>
>Bill Webster (WWEBSTER@BNR.CA)



John Morton					University of California
jmorton@euler.berkeley.edu			Mechanical Engineering
{decvax,cbosgd}!ucbvax!euler!jmorton		Machine Shop
From: gcohen@mailer.cc.fsu.edu (Gregory Cohen)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Oriental Gong from Sheet Steel
Date: 28 Dec 92 03:42:07 GMT
Organization: Florida State University

In article <1992Dec25.185159.15584@jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca> caastanl@atlas.cs.upei.ca (Alan Stanley) writes:
>In article <Bzrnpp.Ip@nocusuhs.nnmc.navy.mil> yoshi@nocusuhs.nnmc.navy.mil (D M Yoshikami) writes:
>
>>
<lots taken out>
>As for the heat itself - I don't know anyone who would have a forge large
>enough to heat an entire gong.  What I would do would be to build a good
<more removed>
>Alan Stanley, Queens County Blacksmith Shop

Well ... I have a forge that can handle something that big.  But for a truly
even heat forget about coal or wood heating (you'll regret it) try a propaine
forge.  They are easer to make, and much necer to use.

The best thing about these is that if you design them well enough, you can
use them for smithing, casting, and racu (sp?).


-GReg
gcohen@mailer.acns.fsu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: bwilson@eng.auburn.edu (Brian Scott Wilson)
Subject: Re: Oriental Gong from Sheet Steel
Reply-To: bwilson@eng.auburn.edu
Organization: Auburn University Engineering
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1992 17:05:39 GMT


You wont be able to get away from the edge wrinkling, simply pound it smooth 
with a round faced hammer, into a dished form. ANNEAL OFTEN or it will crack.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: ijeff@hank.carleton.ca (Ian Jefferson)
Subject: ahhhh it's good to be home
Keywords: fellow metal lovers unite
Organization: Carleton University
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 00:50:11 GMT

Gosh it's good to know that I am not alone in the world.  After years of
being thought of as some kind of eccentric it is good to know that there
are people who love working with metal as much as I.

Some day I hope to even become a bit good at it.

Here is a question for someone that has puzzled me for years:

When seperating two metal parts, usually steel and steel, it has been
common pratice to apply heat to the parts to free them.  The effect
is especially noticable in steel on steel parts.  Why does this help?
I first though that expansion of the heated part might be the reason but
in the case of a bolt in a caseing it seems to be more effective to heat
the bolt rather than the caseing. 

Ideas?



-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ian Jefferson 	ijeff@ccs.carleton.ca No NeXT mail please!
		ijeff@computeractive.on.ca NeXT mail please!
From: djt@merlin.caltech.edu (David Thompson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Clock Parts: Source
Date: 29 Dec 1992 13:37 PST
Organization: California Institute of Technology
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: merlin.caltech.edu
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    

I received a couple requests for the address, so I am posting it:

	Klockit		Phone: 1-800-KLOCKIT
	P.O. Box 636
	Lake Geneva, Wi  53147

	The above phone number is for orders (Visa, MC, Discover), as well
as customer service info - they will probably be able to send you their 
current catalog. They have books, kits, plans, tools, music box innards, and
watches in addition to a complete selection of clock movements, hands, pendula,
etc. Again, I have had very good service from these folks, and the quality
of the parts is excellent (I have made 32 clocks so far!). Good Luck!

							-Dave.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: morganh@atlastele.com (Morgan Hall)
Subject: Re: Green copper
Organization: Atlas Telecom Inc.
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1992 15:24:03 GMT

In article <1hal1oINNgur@msuinfo.cl.msu.edu> Eric Kasten writes:
>Ok, here's a question for you folks.  Sometimes on copper metal	
>sculptures you'll find a finish which is sort of a rough green
>substance (maybe somesort of copper oxide?)  The question is:	
>just what is this finish, and just how is it created?  
>Thanks for any info!

This group is great!  Thanks for the replies to my questions on anodizing
metals.

There are already several replys on what the green patina on copper is.
I've always heard it called verdigris.  I've tried several ways to make
it form more quickly -- so far:
	1:  mix vinegar and salt.  apply and let dry
	2:  Urine (yup -- collecting is YOUR problem)  Apply & let dry.

I'd guess that strong bases (ammonia, lye) might work as well as various
acids, but I've used the two above.

Morgan
From: forbesm@atlantis.CS.ORST.EDU (Mark Forbes)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Drill press and recommendations wanted
Summary: I want a drill press. And your opinions
Keywords: drill press
Date: 31 Dec 92 02:59:56 GMT
Organization: OSU CS Outreach Services, Corvallis, Oregon
NNTP-Posting-Host: atlantis.cs.orst.edu

I'm looking for a drill press. What I'd *like* to find is an older
press in good shape, used. What I can afford is $300. What I can
get new is a Chinese knock-off. I've looked at Jet as a possiblity.

What do you think? Opinions, suggestions, places to look, offers to
sell, all cheerfully welcomed.

Mark G. Forbes | forbesm@atlantis.cs.orst.edu
Corvallis, OR  | 503 757 8416 work phone    | Hardware R & D
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: whit@carson.u.washington.edu (John Whitmore)
Subject: Re: Cheap source for Air hardening tool steel
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 05:39:38 GMT

In article <Bzo01o.J18@news.cso.uiuc.edu> cbl@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu writes:
>In article <BzMu0K.Kzz@news.cso.uiuc.edu>, cbl@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu (Chris Luchini) writes:
>>I need a source for 7/8" air hardening tool steel.
>>The best price I've found is about $60/3' lengths,

>	I'm trying to build some swaging dies that need to be able
>	to swage antimoinal lead, ~25Brinell. I 've been told that the
>	static pressures are about 50Kpsi. 

	There are inexpensive oil-hardening steels (and even more
inexpensive water-hardening ones) in the Rutland catalog; for
a 3' length of 7/8" rod, they want under $20.  They do mail-order
from California; (800) 289-4787.

	Swaging lead alloy is not terribly demanding; the cheaper
water-hardening carbon steel is possibly adequate ($14 or so).
It isn't clear what the pressure implies about the required
steel strength (since I don't know what shape you will
be using).

	Hardening is accomplished by heating, then quenching in
an oil bath (or brine, for the water type).