HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: cci@cbnewsj.cb.att.com (kar.c.cheung)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: CO-OP for rent in New York City
Date: 29 Sep 92 17:07:24 GMT
Article-I.D.: cbnewsj.1992Sep29.170724.19071
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T


CO-OP apartment for rent in Manhattan, New York.

Location: East 47th street (between 2nd & 3rd ave) in New York City.

Apartment
---------
Uniquely designed, beautiful 1 bedroom apartment with step-up dining 
area outside kitchen. Roomy and spacious (more than 750 sq.ft.),
It has a modern kitchen, hard-wood floor, air conditioning and lots of 
closet space (including a huge walk-in).

Building
--------
Well maintained, 6-stories red brick pre-war elevator building.
Fully renovated and spotless. Beautiful lobby, spacious corridor,
and elevator. Laundry in basement.

Neigborhood
-----------
One of the safest neigborhoods in Manhattan. Tree-lined block. Walk to 
mid-town offices and easy commute to Wall Street (25 minutes door to door).

Other attractions in the neigborhood includes a fully equipped, modern 
health club in the YMCA across the street. The club has two swimming pools, 
running track, gym, Nautilus, free-weight, studios, an early childhood 
learning center (nursey and day care) and lots of adult and teenage 
programs. It is also relatively inexpensive compared to other clubs. 
Two blocks away is the United Nation and its beautiful garden overlooking 
the East River.

Rent
----

$1,350/month

For appointment, please call C.H. Mok at 212-553-7889 (Day)
                                         212-486-2962 (Night)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: lowry@watson.ibm.com (Andy Lowry)
Subject: Re: This Old Lighthouse
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 15:11:42 GMT
Distribution: usa
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center

In article <1992Sep28.201314.629@telesciences.com> bbenowit@telesciences.com (Barry D Benowitz) writes:
 > I was watching a PBS show last night that talked about the disrepair of
 > some (most) of our East Coast Lighthouses. The showed pictures of a few
 > of ther nicer ones and a few of the more decrepit ones, Could they use
 > some work.
 > 
 > Apparently, The US Coast Guard (Read Taxpayers) owns them and can't 
 > afford  to maintain them. Yet, they are required for maritime navigation.
 > 
 > Think about the possibilities:
 > 
 > Steve and Norm Restoring a famous lighthouse to its former glory utilizing
 > their considerable skills and using the might of the _TOH_ staff for getting
 > all those juicy savings (which translates into Taxpayer savings).
 > 
 > Food for thought.

This is interesting, though I don't suppose it would serve the
original premise of the show (or at least what I've always thought the
premise to be), which is to both entertain and to educate people on
how they can tackle similar projects in their own homes.  But given
the popularity of TOH among people who have no expectation of ever
putting the information to use, I wouldn't be surprised if people
would tune into a show that does historic restorations, not just of
lighthouses but of historic homes built of various challenging
materials, sunken ships dredged from the depths (like the Wasa in
Stockholm), etc.  I'm sure I'd tune in now and then.
--
Andy Lowry, lowry@watson.ibm.com, (914) 784-7925
IBM Research, P.O. Box 704, Yorktown Heights, NY  10598
From: dougl@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com (Doug Leno)
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 22:27:34 GMT
Subject: Re: Square-D electrical panel
Organization: Hewlett Packard - Boise, ID
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house

in hpdmd48:misc.consumers.house edwards@world.std.com (Jonathan Edwards) writes:


>Following advice here and elsewhere, I have asked the electrician on my
>new house construction to use a Square-D power panel instead of the cheapo
>GE unit the builder usually uses. And also to use all copper wire (they would
>use aluminium for the main feed and oven). The price for both of these
>upgrades is $960! Is this a reasonable price, and is it worth it???

In case it matters, Square-D breakers are substantially more expensive
than GE.  I found that out when I had to add another circuit to my main
panel and found that there wasn't room! 

My advice is to make sure that you have room for expansion and that your
electrician doesn't fille up your (smaller cheaper) panel with tandem
breakers.


 
Doug Leno                                    Hewlett Packard Company
Manufacturing Engineering                    11413 Chinden Blvd
Heads and Media                              Boise, Idaho  83714
Disk Memory Division                         (208) 323-3693
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Internet: dougl@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com        dougl%hpdmd48@relay.hp.com
--------------------------------------------------------------------
X.400: AD=ATTMAIL  PD=HP  CC=US  ON=HP  OU1=CORP  OU2=UNIX  OU3=X400
  SN=LENO  FN=DOUG  DDAT1=HPMEXT1  DDAV1=dougl@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: eric@desktalk.com (Eric Lieber)
Subject: Cleaning Oriental Rugs
Reply-To: eric@desktalk.com
Organization: Desktalk Systems Inc.
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 18:41:44 GMT

Is there a way that I can clean my orienetal rug, ( a Boukara), myself.
One idea I've had is to use an ELECTROLUX carpet cleaner with water only, then let it dry. 
Is it possible to just hose it down with water & let it dry outside?

Do I have to use a professional service?

Thanx for any advice/input

Eric Lieber
DeskTalk Systems
Torrance CA
310 323 5998 ext 124	STD DISCLAIMER


Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: GA.MCL@forsythe.stanford.edu (Mark C. Lawrence)
Subject: Re: Marathon Water Heaters
Organization: Stanford University, California, USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 00:21:28 GMT

In article <5626@naucse.cse.nau.edu>,
rrw@elden.cse.nau.edu (Bob Wier) writes:
>I have a friend who is building a house and recently we stopped by the
>power company to transact some business. While there I got to noticing
>a promotion they were running regarding water heaters.  Turns out they
>will give a 4$/gallon rebate if you replace your old water heater with
>a new energy efficient electric model ...
> ...Since the unit is so efficient, the power company
>wants customers to install as big a unit as possible (82 gallons in my
>friend's case) and a timer so that the until heats during the evening
                ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>off-peak hours.  (I'm not sure how reasonable this might be - if I
>run low on hot water, I don't think I'd be patient enough to wait
>for the next low load period before I finished my shower - still on the
>average it might reduce peak demand substantially).

My guess is that their motivation is the reduction of peak demand, and
that you only get the rebate if you agree to the timer setup...better
check the fine print.  This would require a large tank, because when
the hot water is gone there isn't any more until the next off-peak time,
which as you noted is a long time to stand in a cold shower :-(

Mark C. Lawrence
Systems Programmer
Stanford Data Center
Stanford, CA 94305-4136
(415) 723-4976
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: bill@chaos.cs.umn.edu ( Hari Seldon     psychohistorian )
Subject: Re: Propane regulator failure?
Organization: University of Minnesota
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 16:49:54 GMT

In <5627@naucse.cse.nau.edu> rrw@elden.cse.nau.edu (Bob Wier) writes:

>Having never experience something like this before, can anyone say
>how rare it might be?  We talked with several people and most felt it
>was either a regulator failure in the diaphram or something blocked

when a tank of high pressure anything is refilled it is always a good
idea to 'vent' off some gas to blow any dust or dirt out of the valve
prior to connecting the regulator. this is esp. important for any tank which
is/has been moved. think about it, a peice of sand blasting down a 
copper tube propelled by 500 psi (or greater) [or less]. this is 
a practice we learned while building ships, crack the valve (not a weeny
little bit but enought to blow out any dust/dirt) then put the regulator on.
if the regulator has been off for any time out of your sight little bitty
aminals might choose to make it their home (causeing a blockage). if
it's to bee out of sight seal it up, it only takes a few seconds to
become a 'home'.

>the orifice inside the regulator.  

>Incidentally, along these same lines, does anyone know how regulators
>are sized?  What would be appropriate for a house with propane appliances

by the *volume* of gas which they must pass.

>(h2o heater, stove, refrigerator) and lighting (via Humphrey mantle units).
>Since it's used seasonally, there is not a propane furnace.  The regulator
>is marked "450L", which I assume is some type of capacity unit.

i do believe (and here, ie specs. maybe a bit foggy) we are now talking 
liters/hr. at any rate the regulatores are unit of volume/unit of time.

>Second incidentally, I've run across a specification for an appliance burner
>which says the pressure should be 11" W.G.  I'm thinking that this is 

Water Guage

>stated in terms of "inches of water" (I've seen it elsewhere).  I'm not
>familiar with this type of unit - does it imply since 14 psi (std atmos
>pressure) will support a water column of about 30', is a 12" W.G. equivalent
                                                  ^
inches not feet (") as in barometric pressure ya know.

>to 1/30*14? That seems like an awfully small pressure to get gas thru a
>pipe to an appliance burner (?).  

hope this helps.

bill pociengel
--
llbi locgeenpi " i'm a little confused right now"
From: srivatsa@karna.Eng.Sun.COM (Chakra Srivatsa)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: The programmable thermostat jungle...
Date: 6 Oct 92 21:03:37 GMT
Reply-To: srivatsa@karna.Eng.Sun.COM
Distribution: usa
Organization: Sun Microsystems
NNTP-Posting-Host: karna

In article 92Oct2144703@king.slc.mentorg.com, andre@king.slc.mentorg.com (Andre' Hut) writes:

About Honeywell MagicStat MS3000:

>I saw this model at HomeBase (warehouse hardware store in the West).  I
>couldn't tell if this unit has a clock, or anyway to set it if there is.  Jim, can
>you tell us how it is programmed, and if it has a clock?  
>--

Yes, it has a clock which you can set at 10 minute increments.
(But you can program only 1/2 hour chunks).

There are 2 buttons - fast and slow, to move to the time you want.
Fast moves by 4 hour increments.  Slow moves it by 1/2 hour.  Tapping
the buttons moves the time backward.  Move to the time you want, set the
temp, and move on to the next time.  It's pretty easy, except it's
a slight hassle to reprogram - for e.g. all weekday morning on times from 7:00
to 6:30.  At power on, the first day's program is automatically entered
into all 7 days so you don't have to tap in all 7 days worth of programs.

6 changes/day, which I think is adequate (4 is NOT adequate).

Funny someone should mention it, I sometimes think that its temperature
reading is on the high side.  But I verified it with another thermometer,
and it looks fine.

I would recommend it too.

---
The one l lama, he's a priest. 		srivatsa@eng.sun.com
The two l llama, he's a beast.
And I will bet a silk pajama, 
there isn't a three l lllama!		says Ogden Nash
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: staffan@ca.serum.kodak.com (Kenneth Staffan (x37507))
Subject: Setback thermostats - anyone tabulate data?
Organization: Clinical Products Division, Eastman Kodak Company
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1992 17:51:57 GMT

I know the topic of setback thermostats comes up in this group occasionally.
Does anyone have a summary?  What I'd really love to find is a little table
that compares features between makes & models.  (But if anyone has specific
recommendations, that would be handy, too).

Thanks,

Ken
---
staffan@serum.kodak.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: chrism@haida.mentorg.com (Chris McCabe)
Subject: Re: Loose Laid Vinyl Flooring - O.K.?
Originator: chrism@haida
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 18:09:06 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Mentor Graphics 
Keywords: 
Followup-To: 


In article <1992Sep28.133328.723@cbfsb.cb.att.com>, tln@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (teresa.l.green) writes:
|> Hello -
|> 	Has anyone heard of or used a product called Mannington Gold?
|> This particular brand of vinyl flooring is apparently loose laid, no
|> glue, just stapled at the edges.  The salesman said it was very 
|> important to lay the vinyl out and staple it immediately, as it starts
|> to shrink.  I plan to put this down in a bathroom and I am concerned
|> about its durability.  I would appreciate comments and advice concerning 
|> this type of vinyl flooring.

  I installed this type of flooring in my kitchen and bathroom about a year
ago.  It is very easy to install because you only glue around the edges.
(Staples can also be used, but I think glue is recommended).  The flooring
in my kitchen looks great, but the bathroom developed a bubble in the flooring
when it got to be around 95 degrees in my house (hot summer, no AC) and it
has not gone away although has reduced some in size.  I am hoping that I can
just glue it down somehow so I don't need to rip up the floor.
  The flooring apparently shrinks some after you lay it down.  It is very
flexible stuff and can be stretched easily.  (Also doesn't crack when you bend
it sharply like some other types of flooring).  I suspect by bathroom flooring
shrunk before I glued it, or it was too cold in my house when I layed it down.

  -Chris
-- 
Chris McCabe        chris_mccabe@mentorg.com | Opinions expressed here may not
Mentor Graphics Corporation   (503) 685-7000 | be those of Mentor Graphics and
Member of Technical Staff - Core Engineering | probably not those of the Pope.
From: curt@vtucs.cc.vt.edu (Curt Tilmes)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Attaching Stud Wall to Concrete
Date: 5 Oct 92 15:16:13 GMT
Organization: Virginia Tech, Blacksburg, VA
In-reply-to: cheryl@drutx.ATT.COM's message of 2 Oct 92 17:44:22 GMT

>My husband and I used an impact nailer to attach the floor in our
>kitchen to the concrete underneath.  It worked VERY well, and it
>wasn't at all difficult.

We used one of those when re-modelling my parent's basement.  We had
problems with *really* hard concrete, where the nails would form an
s-shape inside the 2x4s, without penetrating the concrete at all.  It
was pretty weird, the nails look just fine from the top, but with a
slight bit of pressure, the entire 2x4 would come loose.

Curt
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: chris@adx.adelphi.edu (Chris Chen)
Subject: fixing HW floor
Organization: Adelphi University
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 03:08:07 GMT

Hi there,

	I just bought a house and I figure that before I move in I would
like to fix up the HW floor. The house already has HW floor but the old
owner never used it. He put carpet on it. So I am wonding what I have to
do. I know I have to sand it. But what else? How to go about? I would
appreciate it if someone can give me a DIY direction/instruction or hints and
pointers.  Many thanks.

--Chris

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: wicklund@intellistor.com (Tom Wicklund)
Subject: Re: when does PMI stop?
Organization: Intellistor, Inc.
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 92 19:59:09 GMT

In <19t46lINNo3c@seven-up.East.Sun.COM> jfox@hooksett.East.Sun.COM (John Fox - SunExpress IR) writes:

>Sorry, it's neither.
>What you paid back when you bought it unfortunately has nothing to do
>with what it's worth today, and that's what bankers and insurers are
>concerned about - what can I get for this property if it had to be
>sold today. Use current appraised (not accessed) values to determine
>you loan to value ratio.

This isn't always true -- the best thing to do is talk to the bank --
the worst they can do is say no.

Also check your documents.  I have a condo which has unfortunately
dropped greatly in value (the bank is selling foreclosures for about
1/3 the original purchase price).  I found a note in the original cost
estimates saying that PMI went for 110 payments (though nothing in the
contractual documents I signed at closing).  I sent a letter to the
bank asking why they kept collecting PMI past 110 payments and
promptly received payment coupons for a lower payment and a month
later a refund check for excess PMI.

Don't assume the bank will drop the PMI payment by themselves, you may
need to "remind" them.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: sturges@master.lds-az.loral.com (Jim Sturges)
Subject: Re: Need info on CARPET CLEANERS
Followup-To: misc.consumers.house
Organization: Loral Defense Systems - Arizona
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 15:15:07 GMT

In article <1992Sep22.204838.16705@opencon.com>, giand@opencon.com (Deepak
S. Gianchandani) wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> I had done a previous posting on, "Bissell's Big Green Machine", but
> got no response. So here is the question again, I have seen two kinds
> of carpet cleaning machines, one uses "Dry Foam", the machine is the
> Kirby, Generation 3 machine, and the other made by Electrolux, which
> uses the same kind of principle........

There have been some exchanges lately. I am an advocate of the Chem-dry
approach which is not a do-it-yourself system, but I feel is much much
better. Others have nominated machines which use detergent compounds
followed by as many rinse cycles as needed to make the vacuumed water
clear. A consensus among posters has been that the money invested in a good
vacuum cleaner is probably much more wise than that invested in a cleaner
machine, since the former to a large extent obviates the necessity for the
latter. We have used top-o'-the line Hoovers with much happiness over the
years, supplemented by annual Chem-dry visits [about
$140 for about 1500 or so sqft carpet] and have been very happy. Chem-dry
also sells 'stain extinguisher' bottles in Price Club which work like
miracles.


*************************************************************************

Yesterday I was a dog.  Today I'm a dog.  Tomorrow I'll probably still
be a dog. Sigh!  There's so little hope for advancement.
                -- Snoopy

 ************************************************************************

Jim Sturges                             MS 8612
602 925-7204                            Loral Defense Systems -- Arizona
602 925-6988 Fax                        P.O. Box 85
sturges@master.lds-az.loral.com         1300 S. Litchfield Rd.
CIS: 72470,3117                         Goodyear-Avondale, AZ  85338
From: artb@hplsla.hp.com (Art Bori)
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1992 00:30:25 GMT
Subject: Refinishing Entry Doors
Organization: HP Lake Stevens, WA
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house

My front doors are in need of refinishing and I'd like to get some
advice.  The doors are the type with a stained glass insert. The left
side door is usually locked in place - there are "slide bolts" to secure 
them to the top and bottom of the door frame.

Here are my questions:

	1.  What's the best sequence to finish them and still have 
	    a secure house?  (Remove a door, replace it with a temporary
	    door, refinish, replace and do the same to the other side?)

	2.  Instead of a temporary door, could I get away with some type
	    of plywood set up?

	3.  The doors were "finished" with some type of spray on laquer.
	    Whats the best way to remove the old finish?

	4.  What type of finish should be used?

	5.  Other suggestions or comments?

Thanks,
Art Bori
From: moroney@ramblr.enet.dec.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: White Birch-Firewood?
Date: 3 Oct 92 03:33:37 GMT
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation

In article <92274.110458JCLEWIN@MTUS5.BITNET>, <JCLEWIN@MTUS5.BITNET> writes...
|In article <lc47riINNdva@utkcs2.cs.utk.edu>, langston@langston.cs.utk.edu (Mike
|Langston) says:
|>brian kiviat asks:
|>
|>> I just cut down a White Birch tree, is the wood any good for the fireplace?
|>
|>its pretty bark is probably worth more than its meager thermal units
|>
|>a lot of people like to leave a few logs in the fireplace (when it's
|>not in use) to impress visitors -- but check for borers, termites and
|>ants first :)

|According to the Garden Way publishing "Saving money on firewood" both yellow
|and paper (=white??) birch are midway down the list of good firewood.  I burn
|both types in our woodstove with great results.  Actually it is my third prefer
|ed wood source (after red oak and sugar maple) and prefered over red maple (als
|o known as soft maple around here).

I recently saw a chart on firewood heat values, white birch is about average
which agrees with my limited experience.  It burns down to a bed of hot coals.

Get it off the ground, it rots quickly otherwise.

-Mike
From: soberg@think.com (Stephanie Oberg)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Recessed ceiling lights project complete!
Date: 1 Oct 1992 16:56:49 GMT
Organization: Thinking Machines Corporation, Cambridge MA, USA
NNTP-Posting-Host: quicksilver.think.com

Well, the remodelling project I started a mere eight months ago is complete.  
A major component was adding recessed ceiling lights to my living and
dining rooms.  I got some great advice from the net and did a lot of study
on typical output of various bulbs, desirable lighting levels for various
tasks, etc. and I have to say I am very impressed with the results.  (The
painful memories of the electrician's behavior have already faded...)

Is there any interest in my posting design guidelines, placement, bulb
selection, results, etc.?  If I get one or two encouraging emails, I will
type it all up and post.
-- 

sojourner
From: gt@hpfcbig.SDE.HP.COM (George Tatge)
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 19:23:08 GMT
Subject: Re: Leaking skylights
Organization: HP SESD, Fort Collins, CO
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house

In misc.consumers.house, lbd@cbnews.cb.att.com (linda.b.dunlap) writes:

>Why would 3 out of 5 skylights, in a house 6 years old, all start
>leaking on the same night.

>We had heavy rain but little or no wind.

>None of the five have ever leaked before.  No one has been on the roof
>for months.  We haven't had a heat wave, nor a long dry spell.

>It's still raining so we haven't been up to look yet.

If I were to take a wild guess it would be related to caulking or
mastik or rubber seals or some other degradable item.

gt

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: jeq@i88.isc.com (Jonathan E. Quist)
Subject: Re: IN-LINE WATER HEATERS
Organization: INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation, Naperville, IL
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 15:24:57 GMT

In article <horwath.717449276@geode11> horwath@rtsg.mot.com (George Horwath) writes:
>If inline heaters are soooooooo good, why aren't they used in commercial
>situations? In health clubs with many showers in the locker room, they
>just use a much larger tank than for a home.

Simple.  It's because the building contractor who got the job doesn't
care squat about operating costs after he's out of there, nor about
energy efficiency or anything else.  He's trying to complete the terms
of the contract at low cost, to maximize his profit.
-- 
Jonathan E. Quist                              INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation
jeq@i88.isc.com  '71 CL450-K4 "Gleep", DoD #094        Naperville, IL
        There are many things a person should experience in a lifetime.
       Among them are an infant's first cry, and an infant's first laugh.