HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: joanm@moe.coe.uga.edu (Joan Maxfield UCNS)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Bicarbonate question
Date: 6 Sep 92 01:22:22 GMT
Organization: College of Education, University of Georgia

Thanks for all the replies folks!  We tried for several days to get
the pH up (we used about 1/4 tsp of baking soda/day) but it just
wouldn't stay up!  We finally decided that a little pH shock from
moving them into their new bigger tank would be less harmfull than
leaving them in the smaller tank and subjecting them to wild pH
fluctuations.  We spent a full day checking the pH every 1/2 hour and
slowly moved it up to 6.8 (about the pH of the tap water in the 30g)
and then moved them over.  It's been about a week and everyone seems
to have made it with no problems.  Even the fish with the swim bladder
trouble is fine!  I'm glad it's over and I hope I never have another
tank go wild like that, I'd hate to think my fishies were unhappy!

Joan
Organization: University of Illinois at Chicago
Date: Sunday, 13 Sep 1992 21:41:20 CDT
From: <U37460@uicvm.uic.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: [M] Maldives clownfish

Has anybody had any experience in keeping the BlackFooted clownfish
from the Maldives (known as A. nigripes) ?  If so, please post...
Also, how much did you pay per fish and where did you get it(them)?
The only place I know of that gets them is Tropical and Marine Paradise
in Pennsylvania.
Thnks...
Ethan Hsalett
u37460@uicvm.uic.edu
haslett1@earth.eecs.uic.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: harold@wam.umd.edu (James B. Harold)
Subject: Re: Electric Katz?
Organization: University of Maryland, College Park
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 19:10:07 GMT

In article <1992Sep11.170035.7124@news.duc.auburn.edu> kevins@eng.auburn.edu (Kevin Sullivan) writes:
>I wonder what would be the result of grounding a tank with 
>an electric cat in it.
>
>Things that make me go "Hmm".

Hmmmm.  I think I wonder just the opposite.  Don't electric cats use
their generated E field to navigate?  You'd think they'd be used
to being the only voltage source in the area.  What would they
think of an electrically leaky powerhead?  That it's an
insane fellow cat?  Maybe some experiments are in order...anybody
have an electric cat that's particularly wary of (or friendly
with :-)  ) a bit of aquarium equipment?  :-)
-- 

James Harold                 "There is always an easy solution to
harold@wam.umd.edu            every human problem -- neat, plausible,
                              and wrong."    --  H. L. Mencken 
From: booth@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (George Booth)
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 18:12:13 GMT
Subject: Re: DIY light hood questions?
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria

> I'm pretty sure that I'll need fans in both ends to dissipate
> heat.  What sort of temp increase should I expect from MH
> (currently 80F)?

We have our MH fixture 14" above the water and it will raise the
temperature of a 90 gallon tank from 81.6 to 82.6 F over the period 
of 10 hours. 

Your results will vary.

------
George

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: jengagne@next03cville.wam.umd.edu (Jenny Lynne Gagne)
Subject: Re: Painted Glass Fish
Reply-To: Jurassic Park as movie
Organization: Workstations at Maryland, University of Maryland, College Park
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 01:36:06 GMT

In article <1992Sep7.132713.12611@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu>  writes:
> 
> This person told me that 1) they *AREN'T* being injected with the dye,  
they are
> painted.  And 2) that if I really wanted to get something done I was in  
the
> Anne Kaelber satilley@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu
> Miami University
> Oxford, Ohio

From what I've fund out, they aren't injected OR painted... they dip the  
fishies in a dye, and the walls of the swim bladder absorb the dye.  But  
what do they do for the 2-color ones, hold them with tweezers? <shudder>

jengagne.wam.umd.edu
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:7296 alt.aquaria:4960 sci.aquaria:1341
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria,sci.aquaria
Subject: Rare & exotic plecos
From: cpbuehrer@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu
Date: 9 Sep 92 01:01:53 -0500
Organization: Miami University Academic Computer Service"

I just bought a magazine that had an article about rare and exotic plecos.

Ones that really took my fancy include the mango pleco, the sunshine pleco, and
the vampire pleco.....especially the mango pleco.

I know I'm being a lamer for not posting the scientific names, but I'm too lazy
to walk across the room and get the magazine just to type in those
unpronouncable latin octo-syllabic names anyway.


Well...my question to all you fish.net.nuts is where/how to I get my grubby
little paws on some of these elusive critters...none of the local pet stores
carry them on a regular basis (if at all).  If I order them through one of
these pet stores, what kinds of prices should I expect to pay?

Does anyone out there actually *own* one of these plecos?  Have you had any
luck (or have you even attempted) breeding them?  (Breeding them will be my
long term goal...but I have to get some first!)  Are there any special
conditions I'd need to know about to make these plecos ultra happy and healthy?
(ie: DH, pH, dissolved O2 levels, etc...etc...)


advTHANKSance,
--Dennis
  ^^^^^^new pleco freak
From: oste@crchh79.BNR.CA (Greg Osterhout)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Lateral Line Erosion & Grounding
Keywords: Grounding
Date: 8 Sep 92 19:21:35 GMT
Reply-To: oste@crchh79.BNR.CA (Greg Osterhout)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.

I have never been able to keep tangs for extended periods.  They always
seem to get Lateral Line Disease.  There have been several theories as
to the cause of this condition.  The latest theory is induced voltages.

I have seen a new product in FAMA by Sandpoint that is supposed to ground
the tank and cure Lateral Line erosion.  The product is called
Sandpoints Solution Ground and the cost is ~$45.  Has anyone heard anything
about this product?  It has a titanium tip to prevent metal corrosion.  But
it seems to me that a bacterial slime would cover the tip and prevent the
ground from working.  Any opinions on this.

Greg
From: garyp@tekig5.pen.tek.com (Gary R Pimm)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: co2
Date: 9 Sep 92 04:55:41 GMT
Reply-To: garyp@tekig5.pen.tek.com
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Beaverton,  OR.


With all the traffic about co2 running now I thought I would through in
some observations and some questions.

The observation is that in two of my plant tanks the plants would strip all
the co2 out of the water in less than 12 hours. The ph measurements in both
tanks before the lights came on in the morning was 7.6. According to the 
KH/ph/co2 chart this was about 3.5ppm co2. At the end of the light period the 
ph in the 55 gallon tank would be 7.9-8.0 and in the 10 gallon tank the ph 
would be 8.0+. 
At the end of the "day" the 55 measured 0ppm co2 (faint pink when the fixer was
added) and the 10 measured 0ppm co2 also but the fixer turned bright pink. I was
using the LaMotte co2 test kit.

Heres one question. When using a titeration (sp) type co2 test kit 
you add an fixer solution then add indicator solution one drop at a
time untill the test just turns a faint pink. If the test turned pink when the 
fixer was added there is no co2 in solution. What's the differnce between faint
pink and BRIGHT pink when the fixer is added? 

Tank details.

	55 gallon. Ugf with four lift tubes(air powered), whisper 300, 120 watts
	of flouresent light. Lots of plants. 6 adult perl gourmies,3 adult
	angel fish, 22 rasbora heteromorpha, misc cleaners.

	10 gallon. Tetra brilliant sponge, 41 watts of flouresent light. Lots
	of plants. Two 2" gold fish.

Water. Kh 4.5 Gh 4.5. tetra hardness kit.

In this situation where the co2 gets depleted woulden't it be a good idea to
increase the surface turbulance to try to get more co2 into the water?

Is there a equilibrium point where atmosperic co2 = Xppm co2 in the water?

If there is a balance point woulden't a trickle filter hold the co2 level at 
that point either absorbing or outgassing the co2 as needed?

I'm now running manual co2 injection on both of these tanks. The co2 is at
about 20ppm (6.9ph) and the tanks are quite stable.
 
I guess the point of my rambling is if you are using bright lights and minimal
turbulance watch the ph for wild dayley swings.

Hope that I wasen't too aimless.

garyp  
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: olson@dirac.phys.washington.edu (Erik Olson)
Subject: Aquaria in Japan, CO2
Summary: a day of sight-seeing
Keywords: public aquaria, japan, CO2
Organization: University of Washington
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1992 09:53:55 GMT

Well, since I'm holed up in the Tokyo area for 3 weeks on Physics
business, I decided to look around & see if there were any public
aquaria today, having heard a rumor of one in the Ikebukuro area.
There is -- it is the 10th and 11th floors of a shopping complex!
An interesting place, most awesome being the saltwater Sunfish display
(they look like a turkey platter with two fins), and the Australian
sea-dragons.

Anyway, I'm writing mainly to describe that in a nearby department
store (Tokyu Hands, slogan: "creative life store") there was a small section
of the 6th floor entirely dedicated to PLANT TANKS!  This section was about as
big as your usual pet corner in K-mart, but they had a few display tanks
with your usual cool plant fare (I've never seen corkscrew val or Alternantha
reinecki (sp?) in Seattle before), and no less than THREE different CO2
systems for sale... Dupla, Tetra (and now that I see it, I also have
to add my voice to say that it looks way wimpy), and some other german company
I'd never heard of before.  There were also digital pH meters in bubble packs
(costing $150.. I wasn't fooled by the packaging). Very cool.

So a question to anyone who has visited or lives in Tokyo: 1) Is this typical,
or did I just run into a very special place by chance? 2) Any good aquaria/
fish stores you know of in the area, and 3) How about public aquaria?

Back in 2 weeks!

   Erik  (usually erik@marge.phys.washington.edu)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: fred@mks.com (Fred Kratky)
Subject: Re: [F][P] Any plants in a true Amazonian tank?
Organization: Mortice Kern Systems Inc., Waterloo, Ontario, CANADA
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 13:50:11 GMT

In article <1992Sep9.230818.23776@javelin.sim.es.com> krogers@javelin.sim.es.com writes:
>I've been persuing The Complete Book of Aquarium Plants, by Allgayer
>and Teton, and have a question for you plant tank mavens.
>
>they discuss regionally faithful aquaria, they state that a Amazonian
>black water tank shouldn't have any submersed plants in it at all to
>be truely accurate.  Given the lack of carbon from either CO2 or CO3

Yup.  Most aquarium plants are not true aquatic plants, but terestial
plants that can survive long periods (or frequent) flooding. (examples
of true aquatic plants are: elodia, Horn Wart, and some of the Sagitaria
species)

Working from memory, I believe that the forest areas in the Amazon
region are flooded for 6 months at a stretch.  I wonder what vegie
eating fish feed on during non-flood periods when they can't get into
the flooded forest to graze on plants 'n stuff.

-- 
     ||  // // ,'/~~\'   Fred Kratky		fred@mks.com 
    /||/// //|' `\\\     Mortice Kern Systems Inc.     (519) 884-2251
   / | //_// ||\___/     35 King St. N., Waterloo, Ont., Can. N2J 2W9
0_/                       
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: smd@fct.unl.pt (Sergio Marco Duarte)
Subject: Help with lighting!
Organization: Universidade Nova de Lisboa -- Lisbon, Portugal
Distribution: rec.aquaria
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 18:00:28 GMT



 I plan to setup a new tank as soon as I move to a new home, 
 it will be mainly a 50 gal plant aquarium.

 I'm still designing the thing and I'm stuck with the lighting,

 I  don't want to use fluorescent lights.
 They seem to be the most cost efective but they're too big, too
 heavy and well I would like to try something else...

 My original idea was to use halogen lamps, they seem to have the
 right white color, they're small yet very brite and also use 12V which is
 good near water. Using several light would allow me to use separate
 dimmers for each lamp which might be nice.
  
 The problem seems to be their life-span, they aren't cheap to start
 with and if they last only around 100 hours as I read somewhere, I
 must forget them.
 Is this life-span right?
 Also, I have found two kinds of halogens lamps, 
 The ones I had thought about are small round things around 20/50 Watts,
 that are used as projectors. There's another king of about 200/300
 watts that look more like bare glass with small pieces of metal
 inside. Which ones are best, is they are good at all.
 
 Thanks, any help would be most welcome.


 Sergio
   
 
 
--
 Sergio Duarte  *** smd@fct.unl.pt *** FCT/UNL *** PORTUGAL
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Paul A Prior)
Subject: Re: fluval canister filters
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1992 18:27:31 GMT

Seems like I've commented on this question at least 50 times now...

Fluval and Eheim are both good quality equipment.  I have a magnum
and a fluval and never use the magnum (350).  The eheims are a -little-
quieter (but I have the fluval 403 about 2 feet from my bed and don't 
hear a thing...) and maybe a little better built but they are more
expensive and flow rate is less.  One thing to note is to buy the 
next size up from the one recommended (I have a 403 in my 55 gallon
FW tank and considered the eheim 3317).  You'll be happy with
either one.  Make sure you get shutoff valves (which I think are
extra with the eheim but come with the fluval).

Cheers,
Paul

-- 
--------pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu----(614) 621-8240----------------
Paul A. Prior    Ban anchors, not reef tanks   "With friends like this,   
3rd year medical student		          who needs anemones?"
The Ohio State U. College of Medicine   Tobacco Kills- Please don't smoke!
From: cowan@aqua.ocunix.on.ca (Darin Cowan (root))
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: corals fighting.
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 92 02:40:18 GMT
Organization: The Aquarium, Ottawa, Ontario

thk@tyres.asd.sgi.com (Tom Kong) writes:

> I noticed my first problem today.  Even though the goniopora and
> the elegance coral are almost a foot apart, when both fully
> inflate, they touch each other.  I noticed rapid retraction of
> the goniopora polyps when their tenticles are stuck to those of
> the elegance.  The elegance doesn't seem to mind about, but
> the goniopora polyps that were stung certainly stay retracted
> for a while.
> 
> My question.  Anyone has an idea of relative aggressiveness between
> the corals?
> 

Elegance corals can sting, and WILL kill off neighbouring corals.  If
you can't get them far enough not to touch, you're going to have
problems.

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
From: black@akebono.math.ncsu.edu (Kelly Black)
Subject: Denitrifying Coil
Organization: College of Physical and Mathematical Sciences
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 17:26:41 GMT


I recently finished a trickle filter and I now have
it up and running.  Because I have the sump under 
the tank I began to wonder if I could make a denit-
rifying (sp?) coil simply by letting water drain into
the sump through a long tube.  My question is whether
or not this is feasible.  What size should the tube
be and what kind of flowrate?  Also, are there rest-
rictions on the inner diameter of the tube?  If so
does this cause a problem maintaing a proper flow rate?

I am under the impression that a denitrifying coil 
operates on a very simple principle.  Can anybody 
enlighten me and describe what the thing is and how
it works?

Thanks in advance,
Kel



-- 
------------------------------------------------------------------
Kelly Black / Center for Research in Scientific Computing /
Box 8205 / NC State Univ. / Raleigh NC 27695-8205
e-mail: black@crsc1.math.ncsu.edu
-------------------------------------------------------------------
The secluded mermaids hate European goods, which have increased male 
power. The tabooed 'male' animal, the dog (used in the chase), is an 
added danger because it can see the spirit world. Dogs walk purpose-
fully on their own, although they have nowhere to go, and they freq-
uently stare attentively into space.  - Unknown
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: jony@microsoft.com (Jon Yeargers)
Subject: [F] algae - new and exciting
Date: 04 Sep 92 16:08:58 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp.
Distribution: usa


I recently added a liquid fertilizer to my plant tank. It came from Horizon
Growers. There is no mention of its contents *BUT* in the two weeks since I
added the 1st dose (two teaspoons into 60 gal) I have found some exciting 
new algae (yuck.) There is a coating of light hair-like algae on all the
plants (it rubs off easily and the Otocinclus really like it) AND I have
this interesting filamentous algae (growing rapidly) in clumps of 1-3"
in diameter. There is also some new brown colored powderlike algae on 
many plants (this is reminiscent (sp?) of the stuff that appeared early
on (I was told that it was a reaction to the early nitrite spike). 
	On the up side: my plants have never looked better! My anubias 
lanceolata is blooming and there is ample new growth all around. NOTE: this
tank is not (yet) CO2 augmented. Iwas using fermentation to add some CO2
but due to the onset of fall my yeast just aren't nearly as happy. (ie
my house is too cold now). So the question is: do I care? Should I be
worried about any of these algae?
	Jonny Y (jony@microsoft.com)

ps This liquid fertilizer comes in addition to a solid (placed-at-the-roots)
fertilizer. (0-0-18, I think. I dont know the numbers on the liquid.) I had
recently read that too much iron in the tank can cause algae problems (i 
do have nails in my filter) - any truth to this?
From: slhpv@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Discus and plants
Date: 6 Sep 92 19:11:07 MDT
Organization: Utah State University


	I am currently considering setting up a 75 gallon tank with
discus and plants.  This setup will be all new equipment and my first
try at discus (however not first with tropicals and chiclids).

	Before I start buying stuff I have a few questions:

1) Can I run a RUGF by diverting part of the water from the pump in a
wet/dry filter to a riser on a standard UGF filter plate?  Any problems
with this other than the need for extra plumbing?

2) Do I need to add anything to Reverse Osmosis water in order to keep
discus and plants?  If so is is available mail order?  (no decent fish
stores within 100 miles and even they don't do plants or discus)

3) Will CO2 injection be possible with such a low carbonate hardness (RO
water) or do I need to even bother?

	-dave

Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:7187 alt.aquaria:4924
From: wmack@en.ecn.purdue.edu (William J Mack)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Rare and exotic plecos
Date: 16 Sep 92 02:37:13 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network

Recently someone posted an article saying he read an article in a magizine
about rare/exotic plecos.  I guess he wanted to know where he could buy some.

My question:  What magazine had the article on these fish?  Thanks.
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:7351 alt.aquaria:4984
From: oleg@Veritas.COM (Oleg Kiselev)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: (F) Community tank suggestions
Date: 15 Sep 92 12:08:28 GMT
Reply-To: oleg@veritas.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Organization: Palo Alto Killifish Loft
X-Disclaimer: I speak for myself only unless explicitly indicated otherwise

weekley@helios.phy.ohiou.edu (Don Weekley) writes:
>I wanted to get more ideas for a new 60gal HEX tank. 

That's like asking "I'd like to write a moderately-sized essay.  What should
I write about?"

Do the following:
	Get yourself a well-illustrated aquarium reference book with
	lots of species.  Choose the one that's the thickest and with
	lots of high-quality photos.  Libraries often have a few to
	chose from.

	Find ONE species of fish you can't live without and which will
	fit into your tank.  It can be a small schooling fish (a neon,
	a glowlite tetra, a tiger barb, a dwarf or a small-sized
	cichlid, a killifish, or a catfish)

	Find information about the geographic area this fish comes from
	and its habitat (this may be available in the same book).  This
	will give you the general water and decor requirements.

	Find what the fish's disposition and space needs are.  This
	will give you the number of the individuals of this species you
	can put in the tank.

	Find a book with lots of pictures and descriptions of aquatic
	plants.  This could be the same book as above.  Select plants
	that will do well in the water and environment your choice
	species needs.  Select the species that will look good combined
	in the tank.  Use your taste as a guide.  Look at some sample
	tank set-ups in the books (could be the same book).

	Consider the aquascaping and the plants' placement.  You now
	have designed a species tank.

	Now, if you want this to be a community rather than a species
	tank, look through the book for the complimentary species:
	catfish, "dither" and "target" fish for cichlids or "pacifier"
	fish for nervous killies, bottom dwellers for the primary
	species that is a top-water fish, top-dweller for
	bottom-dwelling primary, etc.  Make sure these fish are
	temperature, temperament and water chemistry (in no particular
	order) compatible with your "primary" species.

	Do not overcrowd the tank.  In your 60 gal tank you can house a
	dozen angels or 5 dozen small tetras or 4 dozen Corydoras cats,
	but you will create a much better looking tank by stocking it
	with a pair of angels, a dozen each of two species of
	medium-sized tetras that look different enough to be
	interesting (blood-fins and emperors, or head&tail lights and
	cardinals) and a half-dozen of Corydoras cat fish.  This will
	leave you with room for a pleco and either a small school of 
	yet another species of catfsih or tetras, or a few dwarf cichlids,
	or no more fishes at all.  You will still have the colour and
	motion, but your tank will not look like a major street in rush
	hour.

Have fun.
-- 
"Eight years is too long for anyone to go without skills or purpose." 
							-- George H. W. Bush

Oleg Kiselev                                             oleg@veritas.com
From: "jeffrey silverstein" <jeffrey.silverstein@execnet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: bio-logic trickle filter
Date: 4 Sep 92 00:20:18 EST
Reply-To: "jeffrey silverstein" <jeffrey.silverstein@execnet.com>
Distribution: rec
Organization: Executive Networks Information

I've been using the Bio-Logic 800 Filter for almost a year on a 30
gallon tank with a few inverts and 3 fish.  The problem is that
whenever I unplug the filter (e.g water changes, etc)or if the outlet
looses power temporarily the power head running the filter is almost
impossible to restart.  I frequently have to remove the power head 4 or
5 times and spin the roter a bit and try reconnecting the power head to
the electricity.  Sometimes if I just keep plugging and unplugging the
power head it will eventually catch, but sometimes this can take a
preposterously long time.  What is wrong with this filter/power head.
I'm so frustrated that I'm considering a different filter system.

Jeff Silverstein
West Nyack, New York
--
Executive Network Information System  (914) 667-4567
International ILink Host
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:7213 alt.aquaria:4936 sci.aquaria:1335