HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: bednarek@picard.med.ge.com (Dennis Bednarek Mfg 4-6971)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Piano Kits?
Date: 15 Dec 92 07:45:09 GMT
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]


Hold on a minute on the piano kits.  I know as a fact that someone
out there sold a kit for a baby grand piano about 15 years ago.
It included everything and only required finishing the cabnetry
and assembly.  Back then I knew of an individual who had built
several of these piano's (one for him and one for his wife both
professional musicians).  He was a little handier than the average
person in the fact that his hobby was rebuilding church organs.

If anyone knows what company still makes those kits please e-mail that
info to me as well.  I'd also be interested in harpsicord kits.


David Kassover (kassover@rumsey.crd.ge.com) wrote:
: In article <1992Dec14.183722.5106@afit.af.mil> fkilpatr@afit.af.mil (Freeman A. Kilpatrick) writes:
: >Has anyone ever seen a hardware kit for a piano?  The woodworking part doesn't seem
: >like it would be difficult for a simple upright model.  I have been looking at
: >pianos lately and they are way expensive.  I don't know much about piano making, or
: >if a kit is even feasible, but it should save a lot of money.
: >
: >Anyone know anything about this?
: >
: 
: Well, the thingy that holds the strings has to be able to
: withstand some 20 tons of force (in a properly tuned piano, that
: is.  You can save a ton or two by mistuning)
: 
: Now what you need is a piece of furniture that can support a
: chunk of cast iron that will withstand 20 tons of force.
: 
: Not to mention a soundboard, which are usually fairly substantial
: panels of Sitka Spruce.  (Story and Clark made a specialty of a
: laminated soundboard, but I seriously doubt that it is the same
: stuff as your garden variety furniture plywood)
: 
: After that, the case is some relatively straightforward
: cabinetry.
: 
: Were you planning to build the keyboard and action, as well?
: 
: Perhaps you should start small, with a hammered dulcimer.
: 
: 8-)
: 
: 
: 
: -- 
: David Kassover             "Proper technique helps protect you against
: uupsi!khazad!kassover	          sharp weapons and dull judges."
: kassover@aule-tek.com                   F. Collins
: kassover@ra.crd.ge.com

--
---------------------------
| UP TIGHT                 | 
| OUT OF SIGHT             |
| EVERY THING IS ALL RIGHT | 
___________________________

The usual disclaimer of self
 and employer applies to all
 above comments.
#
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: Nick_Janow@mindlink.bc.ca (Nick Janow)
Subject: Re: What Grit?
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1992 20:35:51 GMT

rsoft!van-bc!cs.ubc.ca!destroyer!caen!spool.mu.edu!agate!boulder!ucsu!spot.Col
o writes:

> I like to achieve smooth finishes on typical hardwoods prior to using Watco
> or some similar oil.  So I use the sequence of grits:
>
> 120, 220, 360, 600 (and sometimes 1500.)

Try a hand plane or scraper instead.  They provide a much better surface for
oil finishes.  You don't have to take my word for it; see for yourself.  Take
a scrap of hardwood, plane half of it using a properly sharpened and set
plane or scraper, and sand the other half with whatever grit sequence you
prefer.  Then apply oil.

--

Nick_Janow@mindlink.bc.ca
From: bds@mbunix.mitre.org (Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: What about Unisaw competitors?
Date: 16 Dec 92 15:00:55 GMT
Organization: The MITRE Corporation, Bedford, MA

In article <dnsurber.724366374@node_26400> dnsurber@lescsse.jsc.nasa.gov (Douglas N. Surber) writes:
>
>Anyway, the default choice is of course the Delta Unisaw.  And a fine
>aggreation of cast iron it is.  The Powermatic Model 66 is also in the
>running.  
>
>I have also looked at the Inca 2100, but $2200 is just too much money to 
>pay for a table saw (and $1600 isn't?).  It's a beautiful tool, but I just
>can't talk myself into spending the money.
>
>What about other choices?  I have heard of General and Davis & Wells (?),
>but have never seen either and have no idea where to find out more about
>them or even where to buy one.  
>
>One of the local tool dealers carries Hitachi and can get the Hitachi
>table saw for me, but I'd kind of like to buy American unless there's
>an overwhelming reason not to.  I've looked at some Taiwanese tools and
>while they no doubt work, they don't have the sweaty palms kind of polish
>I want.
>
>That Hitachi resaw bandsaw is one of the most awesome things I have ever
>seen.  A three inch bandsaw blade is truly a sight to behold.  And they
>swear that it will handle a quarter inch blade as well.  If only the table
>would tilt, I'd get that instead of a table saw. :)
>
>Douglas Surber     

If the Inca is too much money, the don't bother with the Davis and
Wells.  The Hitachi bandsaw is a completely different beast, but since
you're ruling it out for other reasons, there's no need to pursue
this.  Since you're ruling out Taiwanese machines because they don't
have some unnamed quality, you're down to a single alternative, the
General.  The General is in the same class as the Unisaw (some people
claim it is better, but then again ...).

Barry
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 18 Dec 1992 07:54:44 -0800
From:         RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM
Subject:      Re: Jointer vs Planer - Thanks

My ex-father-in-law was a professional craftsman (wood, pipe, metal, wire,
you name it, he did it; and very well).

His 2 tools of choice were a table saw and a jointer.

For any important cut he would:

        1. Straten an edge on the jointer.

        2. Cut the board to length and almost to final width on the table saw.

        3. Sneek up on the final width with the jointer.

It worked very well for him. He didn't have a planer and the only tool I ever
herd him wish for was a biger jointer.

                                Ron Tye (all opinions my own,
                                        I've got both; but, use
                                        my planer more - mostly as
                                        a pre sander).
From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 07:30:47 GMT
Subject: Re: Re: Jointer vs Planer (and Bandsaw)
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking


lou@cs.sfu.ca (Lou Hafer) writes:
>
>	What I find interesting about this whole debate (jointer, planer,
>bandsaw) is the general assumption that there's a table saw already sitting
>around in the shop. The first major power tool I bought was an 18" bandsaw,
...
>
>	Depends a lot on what you do, I suppose - I tend more toward small
>furniture pieces so I don't run into the bandsaw's throat limit too often.  I

   Exactly.  You don't have a table saw, so you don't take on the kinds of
   projects that require one.   

   Yet a table saw is extremely useful.   I wouldn't be without one. 
   I don't own a bandsaw.

   I am sure there are a lot of interesting projects you can do without a
   tablesaw, but I am building kitchen cabinets, and I wouldn't attempt it
   without a good accurate tablesaw.
From: steveo@think.com (stephen anthony)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Staircase Handrail
Date: 15 Dec 1992 19:52:06 GMT
Organization: Thinking Machines Corporation, Cambridge MA, USA
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: custard.think.com


I just bought a house and one thing that's definitely on my list to replace
is the staircase handrail. Currently it's an iron railing; but I'd like to
replace it with a wood newell post, handrail and spindles (balisters?). Are
there any reference books on how to craft such a thing? I'd like to start
with stock parts and do what ever joinery is required to put it together,
as I don't have a lathe or shaper. I'd also like to get it done is the
forseeable future, and as I won't have a real shop until some renovations
are done....

What I have is 1/2 a staircase to contend with (very crude ascii):


	stairs      |
	  continue  |
	    up      |          railing
                    |            needed
                    |-----+        here
                          | 
                    ^     +-----+
                    |           |
                  wall          +-----+ 
                                      | 
                                      +-----+
                                            |
                                            +-----------1st floor
-- 
Steve Anthony                     |  "Ain't nobody gettin' outta here |
Software Engineer              	  |   with out singin' the blues"     |
(617) 234-4000                    |                                   |
steveo@think.com                  |  - Albert "The Iceman" Collins    |
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 15 Dec 1992 09:25:41 EST
From:         Doug Cutler <UNCDWC@UNCVM1.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Jointer vs Planer
              15 Dec 1992 06:39:43 GMT from <Nick_Janow@MINDLINK.BC.CA>

On Tue, 15 Dec 1992 06:39:43 GMT Nick Janow said:
>
>You speak of truing an edge, but what about truing the face of a warped,
>twisted board, perhaps 8" wide?  A planer won't do that task.
>
  I recently dressed a "hunk" of 12/4 Cherry 8" wide and 6' long by hand.
This was done by hand tools, starting with a Scrub Plane and finishing with
a scrapper.  I did take some of the warp out though it wasn't necessary
for this particular project that it be perfect ( a classy rustic mantle)
Even though the dimensions of this block of wood were well within the
capabilities of a small joiner or planer (the type I could afford)
the weight sure wasn't, anyway even with a planer hand work may be required.
to take out warp before it get to the machine but that would only be rough
stuff with a scrub and a short jack plane.
 This isn't intended as a boast or anything like that but just to point out
that the older generations who had to work with hand tools developed very
effective techniques for dealing with such things.  As another poster has
pointed out the quality of work from Williamsburg puts a lot of modern power
tool stuff to shame both from the point of quality and design.
BTW.   One of my pet peves even though I did it on that project is
fancy edging produced by a router but cut on the end grain in place of a
properly applied mitered moulding all around the edge.


  Doug. Cutler                       Office of Information Technology,
  VM Systems Programmer              University of North Carolina.
From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 18:33:18 GMT
Subject: Re: Delta Contractor's saw prices (was Re: Ryobi Table Saw?)
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

eap@vuse.vanderbilt.edu (Edward A. Parrish) writes:
>I just went through this about 4 weeks ago. I ended up buying
>the DCS with Unifence from 7 Corners Ace Hardware in MN for
>about $770 and got the $50 rebate from Delta. I saw an add
>in FWW this month from some vendor for $739. 7 Corners will
>match any catalog price I've found ( I bought the EMS
>for $99 after being given a price of $130 because of
>a quote from another vendor). They were very prompt and
>knowledgeable and I was pleased with their service. You can
>call them at 1-800-328-0457.
>----------
   
    7 Corners Ace Hardware IS Tools-On-Sale.  The advertise in
    Fine Woodworking as Tools-On-Sale.
From: kkc@hpcuhe.cup.hp.com (Ken Chan)
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 01:00:57 GMT
Subject: French Dovetails?
Organization: Hewlett Packard, Cupertino
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

Hi,
     I'm going to build a small cabinet with thru dovetails to join the 
top and carcass sides.  To keep the end of the tails from showing on 
the sides, I've seen molding applied to the front and side top edges.  
My question is, what is the best way to attach the molding to the
sides?  Since the top & sides will expand along the length of the molding,
                                     I can't just glue the molding.  I've
A crude ascii picture follows...     seen some people use several small 
____________________________         sections of "french dovetails" screwed 
                           /|        to the sides, but that seems very
                      /\  / |        difficult to get flush to the top
                     /  \/  |        w/o a gap.  Any ideas?  (I'm trying 
                    /___/| /|        to avoid using nails.)     
    TOP                /||/ |                    ___________ ____
                  /\  / |   |                     top       |   /
 grain <->       /  \/  /   |        Front View: ___________|  / <- Molding
                /___/| /    |                           |   |_/
                   /||/     |                           |   |
              /\  / |       |                           |side
             /  \/  /  E    |                           |   |
            /___/| /  D     |
               /||/  I      |           ________________ ________
______________/ |   S   ^                               |       /
              | /       |                 French        |/|    /
______________|/      n v                 Dovetail  --> | |   /
          |   |      i                                  |\|  /
  FRONT   |   |     a                   ________________|   /
          |   |    r                           |        |__/
          |   |   g                            |        |
          |   |                                |        |
          |   |                                |        |
          |   |
          
Thanks!  -ken
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: merrifie@cidmac.ecn.purdue.edu (Michael C Merrifield)
Subject: Re: Piano kits & CD scratches
Summary: an additional comment
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 21:35:33 GMT

In article <1992Dec16.180108.3325@afit.af.mil>, fkilpatr@afit.af.mil (Freeman A. Kilpatrick) writes:
> asket@acad2.alaska.edu writes:
> 
> ...  You will be glad to know that I have decided to make
> a wooden tuba instead. :)

Hasn't Norm made one of these on NYW!  I think he turned
it out a solid piece of poplar.

Mike Merrifield -- A NYW fan...

    **********************************************************
    * Michael Merrifield     merrifie@cidmac.ecn.purdue.edu  *
    * Purdue  University     C A D L A B -- (317) 49 -45944  *
    **********************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: kamooni@pb2esac.uucp (Ken Moonitz)
Subject: Re: Hand-held Circular Saws?
Organization: Pacific*Bell ESAC, Oakland, CA.
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 20:20:02 GMT

In article <28544@oasys.dt.navy.mil> odell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Bernard O'Dell) writes:
>What is the best Circular Saw for the money?
>
>For fixin up an old house-level of expertise-rookie
>
>For example, comparing the DeWalt DW 360-$222.00
>			   Bosch 1654---- 210.00
>			   Sears #27542-- 110.00
>
>Any experiences out there with these or other brands?
>
>Bern O'Dell--

Bosch 1654 210.00 ????  WSNM latest cat list this for 106.00
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: pem@world.std.com (Philip E McNulty)
Subject: Re: Machinery on Concrete Floors
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 03:46:20 GMT

rstarr@pollux.svale.hp.com (Rob Starr) writes:

>Has anyone ever observed any rusting problems for machines setting on a
>concrete floor over a long period of time?  I am assuming the floor
>is a bare concrete slab and does not get wet from something like hosing it
>down.  This would be a slab at ground level (not a basement floor).  Does
>concrete have/conduct enough moisture to cause the bottoms of machines
>to rust significantly over a period of time?  

>Thanks,
>Rob Starr

If the concrete is in an unheated area, you will get enough condensation
on cold days that turn moist to cause rusting over time. You may not
notice it, but it is there. Even with heat, if the slab is cold you will
get condensation - which will tend to linger in obstructed areas like
around machines.

I have a condensation problem in my garage - so I built a plywood platform
on one end to get some of the vulnerable things off of the cement.

Phil McNulty
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 14 Dec 1992 12:55:00 CST
From:         Charlie Griffin <CGRIFFIN@KSUVM.BITNET>
Subject:      Glue choices

A little work around the house this weekend brought up a perennial question
that I need better info on.  I often find myself trying to figure out what
glue is appropriate for a specific use.  I would like to know if any of you
know of any summaries of glue types and appropriate uses., especially what
materials they will and will not work on.  The ability to handle moisture would
be another factor I'd like to know more about.  I'm interested in applications
to other materials as well as wood.
If you've seen any articles, FAQ's, etc., I'd appreciate some references.

Thanks for any info!

--cgriffin@ksuvm.ksu.edu
Charlie Griffin
From: ron@topaz.bds.com (Ron Natalie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Fix scratch in CD?
Date: 15 Dec 1992 17:18:05 GMT
Organization: BDS Systems
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: topaz.bds.com

The problem is that the optical surface of a CD is fairly robust (they
did the right thing here), the non-label side (which is the side that
the laser is reading), is nicely protected by a big hunk of plastic.
If that is scratched, polishing it might help.

However, that's probably not what got trashed.  The top side of the CD
(the label) is really the back side of a thin coating of aluminum where
the information is recording.  If that gets scratched or dented, you're
out of luck. (Yes, this is stupid).

-Ron
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: dmarshall@trentu.ca (Dave Marshall)
Subject: coloured stains for kids blocks
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: Trent Computing and Telecommunications Department
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 17:25:00 GMT

I've made a set of blocks (different shapes and sizes)
for my son for Christmas uh... helping Santa out. I
thought it might be nice to colour them somehow. I don't
want to paint them since I no that will come off. I
wonder if anyone knows of a way to stain the blocks
different colours. I was thinking of a diluted paint
solution (pun intended) that would "soak" in. The 
blocks are pine.

David (goin' cheap this Christmas) Marshall
dmarshall@trentu.ca
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: Nick_Janow@mindlink.bc.ca (Nick Janow)
Subject: Re: Wood for Plane Soles
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1992 20:36:31 GMT

JMORGAN@BROWNVM.BITNET (Jim Morgan) writes:

> Is 'plane' the same as 'sycamore'?  If so, you probably would want to use
> quarter-sawn lumber - plain-sawn sycamore warps readily & is unstable.

I don't think that plane is the same as sycamore, though I'm not sure how
much they differ.  It isn't terribly stable, but in the dimensions I used,
it's stable enough.

--

Nick_Janow@mindlink.bc.ca
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: Impact of our hobby on "the pros" (WAS: Re: Jointer vs Planer)
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 19:18:38 GMT

Jon R Bryan writes
> : >But their claim is that everything I make myself is potentially money out
> : >of their pockets. From my point of view, if I didn't make it
> : >myself as a hobby, I probably wouldn't buy it from them anyway!
> 
> Some unions take the same attitude, and do everything they can to
> discourage DIY work. 

On the other hand, some places like Thos. Moser Cabinetmakers, actually
publish books on how to build their furniture, and include measured drawings!
Perhaps the theory is that most hobbyists will think building a pencil
post bed or high boy chest is beyond their current skills or available
time, and so will buy their stuff. Or perhaps it's an advertising gimmick
to convince people that their stuff is good because they've published
books on it. I do think it's true that woodworker's appreciate good 
design and craftsmanship more than most people, and so perhaps Mr. Moser
feels distributing his plans is just good advertising. Or maybe he just
feels that since he's been so successful he should be giving some back
to the Craft.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bds@mbunix.mitre.org (Smith)
Subject: Re: Jointer vs Planer
Organization: The MITRE Corporation, Bedford, MA
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 17:41:44 GMT

In article <1992Dec11.185948.9421@adobe.com> bennett@adobe.com writes:
>
>But, this seems to leave me alone in thinking that I'd get the planer
>first. Assuming Tim already has some other tools, like a tablesaw or a
>router, perhaps a hand plane, he has enough to do edge jointing, which is
>what most people use a jointer for. 
>
>But, it's a *lot* harder to use these tools to make one face of a board
>parallel to the other.  And, unless you're willing to either have the wood 
>you buy planed at a mill, you'll end up making things out of stock 
>thicknesses, which is limiting. Also, I've found that the thicknesses
>of boards, even at the same yard, vary quite a bit from board to board.
>
>So, what am I missing?
>
>- Bennett Leeds

Nothing.  I have a planer and do all my edge jointing with a
combination of hand planes and the table saw, and my joints are pretty
good.  However, for the cost of a planer you could buy a lot of wood
already planed, and therefore with sides already reasonably parallel
(I would add that the planer is probably the only tool that pays for
itself in wood savings).  I believe, though, that this argument will
continue to be with us for the forseeable future since these tools
provide services that are essential to building furniture (especially
casework) and doing many other kinds of woodworking.  So the bottom
line would be, expect either to buy both or to learn to use handplanes
and other tools to make up for what is missing or to pay more for S2S
or S3S wood.

Barry

Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Thu, 17 Dec 1992 08:21:00 CST
From:         Charlie Griffin <CGRIFFIN@KSUVM.BITNET>
Subject:      Harpsichord question

A couple weeks ago, someone was looking for harpsichord information.  I ran
across a contact that might be helpful, if you're still looking.  Contact me
at cgriffin@ksuvm.ksu.edu.
From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 22:24:55 GMT
Subject: Re: Re: Scraping versus Sanding
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server