HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang)
Subject: Re: Fix rear-window defroster?
Organization: Brandeis University
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 18:37:56 GMT

In article <1992Nov18.151431.3425@netnews.whoi.edu> jmr@nobska.er.usgs.gov (Jim Robb) writes:
>
>	Anybody know how to fix a scratch across one
>of the glued-on bands of a rear-window defroster?  Are there

>    		Jim Robb 		jmr@nobska.er.usgs.gov	
>		US Geological Survey 	(508) 457-2297
>		Quissett Campus
>		Woods Hole, MA 02543

I think that the following _might_ work.  Get a "silver trace" pen and
write over the scratch.  This pen is used to mark conductive
traces onto PC boards and costs roughly $10.  Check in a electronics
supply store.  If anyone needs exact information, I have a mail order
source I can follow up with.

CAVEAT:  In theory this should be perfect.  However, I haven't tried
it and there might be some difficulties, e.g. the backing of the
original trace is an insulator or the glass is too slippery to stick.

-andy
From: bakc@giraffe.ru.ac.za (MR KR COMAN)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Granada Automatic Problems
Date: 17 Nov 92 05:59:49 GMT
Article-I.D.: giraffe.bakc.205.721979988
Organization: Rhodes University, Grahamstown, South Africa

In article <1992Nov12.111409.18667@lut.ac.uk> A.J.Robinson@lut.ac.uk writes:
>From: A.J.Robinson@lut.ac.uk
>Subject: Re: Granada Automatic Problems
>Date: Thu, 12 Nov 92 11:14:09 GMT
>In article <1992Nov11.125009.29204@lut.ac.uk> A.J.Robinson@lut.ac.uk (Alan Robinson)  writes:
>>
>>Has anyone experienced this strange problem before ?
>>
>>My Granada Auto (1986 2.8i Ghia) box seems to behave perfectly EXCEPT
>>if I or it wants to change 3->2 between 40 and about 47 mph.
>>Its fine 3->2 from 0-40 mph.
>>Its fine 3->2 from 47-75 mph.
>>
>>Between 40 and 47 changing 3->2 by opening the throttle, using kickdown
>>or pulling the stick into 2 causes the appearance of a neutral position
>>(engine on rev limit, no forward power) for about 1 or 2 seconds, after 
>>which 2nd is engaged.
>>
>>Similar SLIGHT flare-up on 1->2 on light throttle.
>>
>>It appears I have a problem going into 2nd, but its very specific and the
>>change is perfect at other speeds.
>>
>>It is under warranty, but the selling dealer appears not to have a clue.
>>(Not a FORD dealer - I bought it used from another main dealer).
>>
>>Any ideas on what the problem is or what I should do ?
>
>
>Come on, someone must drive a Granada somewhere out there !
>
>Even if you cant answer the above problem, let me know how yours drives
>and see i that will give me any clues.
>
>Alan.

What's the mileage on this car?  Any idea of its past service history?
Pull the gearbox dipstick and look at the transmission oil.  Is it dark and
smelling like rats**t?  Does the problem arise first thing or is it more 
marked once the car's been running for a while at full operating 
temperature?   

If all of the above are on the positive side, then you should think in 
term of having the drive bands in the box adjusted either by a gearbox 
specialist or a Ford main dealer.

However, if an auto gearbox of this age (1986) has been neglected then you 
should maybe think in terms of a service exchange unit at some stage.  Don't 
rush out and buy one now, but rather run the 'box until it's really stuffed.
(On a service exchange system it doesn't matter whether the 'box you hand in
has a minor problem or its totally fried.) -- Just a personal philosophical
observation!

Meantime why not have a local gearbox expert have a look if you're getting
nowhere with the selling dealer and/or Internet??!!

Besta luck!
Keith Coman


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"Condemning a research report on the basis of :  Dept of Management
 invalid and unreliable methodology is the    :  Rhodes University
 cheapest shot in the book."                  :  Grahamstown, 6140
                                              :  Rep of South Africa
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
From: exuptr@exu.ericsson.se (Patrick Taylor)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: JUST SITTING THERE
Date: 23 Nov 92 21:52:42 GMT
Organization: Ericsson Network Systems, Inc.
X-Disclaimer: This article was posted by a user at Ericsson.
              Any opinions expressed are strictly those of the
              user and not necessarily those of Ericsson.

In article <1992Nov20.025114.12457@nmsu.edu> lstarrit@dante.nmsu.edu (Larry Way Starritt) writes:
>From: lstarrit@dante.nmsu.edu (Larry Way Starritt)
>Subject: JUST SITTING THERE
>Date: 20 Nov 92 02:51:14 GMT



>I have a Subaru Brat 81 that has been well used.
>It runs well except if I let it sit for a few days 
>with out starting it, then it won't start unless 
>I prime the carburetor with a little gas then I
>don't have any trouble with it until I let it 
>sit a few more days with out starting it. Anyone
>out there have any ideas on what is causing this?

>Thanks
>Larry
>lstarrit@nmsu.edu

Maybe a very small leak in the fuel line that allows it to drain back into 
the tank when idle?
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 PEROT IN '96!

  - Patrick Taylor, Ericsson Network Systems
    exuptr@exu.ericsson.se                    "Don't let the .se fool you"
    exuptr@ZGNews.Lonestar.Org  <SLOW!>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: Ken Wilkens <wilkens%nmr@venus.ycc.yale.edu>
Subject: Re: Engine swap in Jaguar
Organization: Yale University
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1a2
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 18:02:49 GMT

There was a company making a kit of the parts you needed to put a chevy
small block into a jag, I have seen the add as of late but you might try
an older issue of car and driver or perhaps HotRod. The kit was around
$2,000 if I remember right but supplied you with all the things you would
need (no engine or tranmission of course!)

Ken
From: bakc@giraffe.ru.ac.za (MR KR COMAN)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Toyota Corolla-Oil Burning problem
Date: 24 Nov 92 05:45:44 GMT
Article-I.D.: giraffe.bakc.215.722583944
Organization: Rhodes University, Grahamstown, South Africa

In article <1eohglINNfsp@flop.ENGR.ORST.EDU> rakhee@hume.CS.ORST.EDU (Rakhee Gupta) writes:
>Subject: Toyota Corolla-Oil Burning problem
>I have Toyota Carolla 84 with 75K miles on it.
>The car runs fine but it burns around a quart of oil
>over a period of 500 miles. Initially I thought
>there was a oil leak somewhere. I looked around also
>Later as my friend suggested I opened the spark plugs and found
>carbon soot on three. One of the plugs had oily deposits
>over it. All three spark plugs were knew and were replaced
>only 1Kmiles/2months before.
>I was planning to drive the car for two more years (i.e. around
>25K miles)  and still have some resale value left .
>Can I just keep driving the car without correcting the problem ?
>or I better get find the root of the problem and get it fixed.


At that age and mileage it sure sounds like the piston ring diagnosis is
correct.  Additional factors would be worn valve guides/seals which also
allow oil to enter the cylinders.

The fact that one plug is oiling up and the others are sooty suggests that
your engine has reached the point where you've gotta consider your options.
Running the car for another 2 years in its present state might be possible
but once plugs start oiling up after 1000 miles, the problem's going to get
worse not better.

There's no obvious hurry, the engine will still run, but over the next 6 
months of so why not investigate the possibility of getting a factory
reconditioned engine (assuming this system operates where you are)?  You
book the car in with a Toyota workshop and they do the transplant in a day.
Far more reliable than having the car's engine rebuilt over a couple of 
weeks, plus you get a Toyota warrenty.  Cost is also way below what a new
engine's price works out at.

As I say, take your time and make some enquiries.  A factory recon engine
would also boost your resale value?

Good luck,
Keith

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"Condemning a research report on the basis of :  Dept of Management
 invalid and unreliable methodology is the    :  Rhodes University
 cheapest shot in the book."                  :  Grahamstown, 6140
                                              :  Rep of South Africa
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Steven J Orlin)
Subject: Re: Opinions - lowering backpressure on fuel injected engine
Keywords: fi fuel injection backpressure exhaust
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1992 18:53:42 GMT

BULLSHIT,BULLSHIT!

You can completely replace the stock exhaust system on a stock ZR-1 to
receive up to 40 more horsepower.  Its not the backpressure that messes
up things, its the emmisions sensors.
If you don't believe this about the ZR-1, read up on Popular Mechanics.


sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu
-- 

*******************************************************************************
                   sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu
*******************************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kelley@cwis.unomaha.edu (Sean Kelley)
Subject: Re: Help... Tinted Windows
Organization: University of Nebraska at Omaha
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 04:06:12 GMT

danielle@sco.COM (THE RED NINJA) writes:


>Hello all, is there anyone on the net that can
>give me some advice about tinted windows?

wel, i dont know about wisdom, but i will give it a shot...

When i had my windows done here in nebraska, they were changeing the law
to read 20 in back and 35 in front, so that is what i did, then about 2
years later i get pulled over for a "routine" traffic stop...they had
road blocks set up looking for headlights out, turning lights out..etc..
anyway, i was told i was fine and could go, then another cop yelled out,
not to let me go anywhere, he noticed my tint and want to check it. The
reading came out -5 % on the back and 10 % or so on front, first off,
think about it, how could glass have a negative reflection?..that a
mirrior right???!!!...so i contested the ticket after theyd said i had
to have it removed...it turns out the equiptment and standards they use
to determine the percentage of tint is ONLY the film, not the film on
the window, and most windows filter some light by itself, plus add in
factor tint, then aftermarket tint...and they got you in a no win
situation, ...BUT, i did win..i sent the ticket in with my receipt, the
procecutor dismissed charges andi have not been bothered since...

	I would suggest going to a shop/police station and haveing your
window tested to see what it is, and also to see how they set their
standards, and even first off before doing any of this, go to the place
you had it done, have them look at your receipt and note that it is
leagal and they did do the work, and show that to someone at the
station...

good luck...

--
	    ________________-----------------_____________
            \                                            /
             \  SEAN KELLEY    KELLEY@CWIS.UNOMAHA.EDU  / 
              ------------------------------------------
From: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Mystery timing slip
Date: 20 Nov 92 23:29:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Ye Olde Bailey BBS - Houston, TX - 713-520-1569
Reply-To: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 

  !@#Subject: Mystery timing slip !@#Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 15:11:10 GMT

PS!@#My 1986 Ford Mustang, 2.3L engine started OK yesterday

  !@#by rotating the distributor assembly.    The mystery is,
  !@#how did the timing all of a sudden slip way off?

  !@#pump which in turn drives the distributor shaft.   If it


The distributor and oil pump are driven off the same shaft from the
TIMING belt....not the crank directly..   it is quite likely that the
belt just slipped on the pump/dist. pulley. If the timing belt hasn't
been replaced in the last 50,000 miles then do it! because next time it
won't just be a loss of power....it will be a no start engine.
                                                Take care,
                                                        don









  !@#~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

 * SLMR 2.1a * I'm too poor to have a TAG!
                                                                                                                 
----
Ye Olde Bailey BBS
Houston,Texas
Node 1: 1 713 520 1569
yob.sccsi.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: wesf@boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii)
Subject: Re: Caravan wheel bearings rusty & dirty
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 15:57:54 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

Topher Eliot (eliot@chutney.rtp.dg.com) wrote:
: In one I find a bit of surface rust on the spindle between the inner and outer
: bearing races; the bearing areas (as best I can see without really cleaning
: anything) all look fine.
: 
: In the other, the grease is all crudded up with dirt and things like the
: bearing cage and inside of the dust cap are rusted.  Foo.
: 
: I'm a little mystified as to how this happened; this should all be sealed up,
: right?  

This is quite typical as the area is not hermetically sealed with a
desiccant enclosed.  Plus, the iron content of the parts is quite high
so it will tend to rust rather quickly, depending on atmospheric conditions.

: I can take it all apart and clean it and put it back together, but
: how do I prevent a repeat?  

Make sure your fingers are clean and DRY before handling the parts.  Clean
the parts well, removing any oils that may have gotten onto the parts from
your hands, then smear grease over the parts to be protected.  This is not 
a guarantee but it should minimize the problem.  Make sure you are using 
the correct grease, especially paying note to if it requires a hi-temperature 
variety.

: I guess I should replace the inner (rubber) seal because it might have 
: leaked. 

Usually recommended but I (being cheap) don't do it all of the time.

: There doesn't appear to *be* an outer seal -- just a metal cap.  

Also common.

: The corresponding metal cap on my Honda has an O-ring; this
: is just metal on metal.

The Honda has a nice design...

Wes Fujii

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Wes Fujii               *           JAPANESE BUSINESS MOTTO           *
* Boise, Idaho            *        You can buy anything you want        *
* wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com *             with a lot of money             *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sjcostan@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Scott J Costanzo)
Subject: oil consumption
Organization: The Ohio State University
Distribution: na
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1992 18:49:02 GMT

 I've had an unexplained oil consumption problem (250-300 mi/qt) since
rebuilding the motor of my MGB 3,000 miles ago (no leaks, compression: 155 psi
per/cylin, leak down test: < 10% per/cylin). I recently discovered that the
aftermarket fuel pump I was using was putting out more than twice the specified
pressure (6 psi. instead of the 2.5 psi. that's called for). I have since
switched back to the stock pump. My question is, could this have contributed to
my oil consumption problem, and if so, is it possible that the problem will
correct itself? Any experiences or comments are appreciated.

                              Thanks, Scott Costanzo
                              scostanz@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: serafin@epcot.spdc.ti.com (Mike Serafin)
Subject: Re: aligning fog lights
Organization: TI Semiconductor Process and Design Center
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 22:16:40 GMT

In article <1e955kINN41i@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> jxs18@po.CWRU.Edu (Jerry Sy) writes:
>
>anybody knows the measurements/specs for aligning fog lights ?
>
>thanks in advance
>jerry
>

Not sure on this anymore, its been a while. 

Align your car, facing a wall, about 20 feet from it on level ground.  The
lights should be adjusted so that the center of the beams projected onto the
wall are a couple or 3 inches lower than the center of the lights themselves.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: romansks@unvax.union.edu (Steve Romanski)
Subject: Re: Tire size conversion program
Organization: Union College, Schenectady, NY
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 14:26:02 GMT

jslee@nrtc.nrtc.northrop.com (John Lee <jslee>) writes:

>Who's got the tire size conversion program and can you (whoever you
>are) quickly tell me the expected speedo error when tire size
>215/75R15 is used instead of 205/75R15? The veh is calibrated for
>the 205.

>Someone's already got this program written, so why bother re-inventing it.
>JSLee

Enter the tire size in form width/ratio/rim: 215/75/15
Tire Width is : 8.46
 Wall height is : 6.35
 Diameter is : 27.70
 Circum is : 86.97
 RPM is : 728.54
 Enter the tire size in form width/ratio/rim: 205/75/15
Tire Width is : 8.07
 Wall height is : 6.05
 Diameter is : 27.11
 Circum is : 85.11
 RPM is : 744.42

Hope this helps
From: sheriffp@Software.Mitel.COM (Peter Sheriff)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Over Rich Fuel Problem  -Need Suggestions!!
Date: 20 Nov 92 21:06:25 GMT
Organization: Mitel. Kanata (Ontario). Canada.


    Sounds like the choke is not releasing. I would say that the choke
is stuck in such a way that you are running at fast idle and also running
very rich. Check that the choke is coming off when the engine is warm.
If not you will have to find out what mechanism causes it to open normally.
Most modern cars have an electric heater in the choke housing. Some older
ones have a water heated choke and some even older pull warm air from the 
intake manifold. Check that all the linkages are free and clean.

                                  Pete
From: rakhee@hume.CS.ORST.EDU (Rakhee Gupta)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Toyota Corolla-Oil Burning problem
Date: 22 Nov 92 17:54:29 GMT
Article-I.D.: flop.1eohglINNfsp
Organization: Computer Science Department, Oregon State University
NNTP-Posting-Host: hume.cs.orst.edu

I have Toyota Carolla 84 with 75K miles on it.
The car runs fine but it burns around a quart of oil
over a period of 500 miles. Initially I thought
there was a oil leak somewhere. I looked around also
had a mechanic look over it. We didn't find any leaks
at all and he says the oil loss could be due to worn
piston rings. He says just keep adding oil and not to
worry about it.
Later as my friend suggested I opened the spark plugs and found
carbon soot on three. One of the plugs had oily deposits
over it. All three spark plugs were knew and were replaced
only 1Kmiles/2months before.
Does this confirm that the only one cylinder has problem ?
Also another question I have is whether the worn piston rings
are the only reason for oil burns or there could be other reasons
which could be causing the problem and are less expensive
to fix.
I was planning to drive the car for two more years (i.e. around
25K miles)  and still have some resale value left .
Can I just keep driving the car without correcting the problem ?
or I better get find the root of the problem and get it fixed.

Can anyone suggest some ways to find out the real cause
fo the problem. This looks like a costly fix and I don't
know much about cars and wouldn't like to  be taken for ride.

Any help or insight greatly appreciated.
From: sheriffp@Software.Mitel.COM (Peter Sheriff)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: ********************* HELP NEEDED!!! *****************************
Date: 23 Nov 92 18:51:20 GMT
Organization: Mitel. Kanata (Ontario). Canada.


   Make sure you get the throwout bearing replaced at the same time.

                                  Pete
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: chohan@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Harpal Chohan)
Subject: Re: Oxygen Sensor - how to clean?
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 22:11:14 GMT

In article <BxxEwt.167@news.cso.uiuc.edu> Skinny Puppy <htunca@ncsa.uiuc.edu> writes:
>I seem to remember a recent discussion on this, but I forgot
>to save the messages.  How does one clean the oxygen sensor?

I don't think you're supposed to. Attempting to clean the sensor tip
itself might mess it up...

-h
From: zrol01@trc.amoco.com (Richard O. Lindsay)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Jag auto trans
Date: 20 Nov 92 18:08:45 GMT
Reply-To: zrol01@trc.amoco.com
Organization: Amoco Production Company, Tulsa Research

Yes, Jags have used the GM400 transmission.  Some have been
surprized to see a GM part on a Ford owned product.  In the
US they use GM parts in the a/c unit.  GM 350 engines are
common swap-outs.  The Lucas fuel injection is really Bosch.
The interior is Connaly(sp), the body parts are (I think)
Midlands Pressed Steel, fluid cleaners are StanPart, etc...

It kinda makes you think that they are all in it together
to get us!

Rick

------------------------------------------------------------
     Richard O. Lindsay        /     __  __      __  __
  Senior Research Scientist   /   / /_/ /_  / / /_/ /_/
  Amoco Production Research  /   / / / /_/ /_/ / / / \
                            / /_/
                           /
My opinions are my own, untill they're worth something, at
which point they become the property of my employer...
------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: Ken Wilkens <wilkens%nmr@venus.ycc.yale.edu>
Subject: Digital Fuel Injection
Organization: Yale University
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1a2
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 12:28:47 GMT

Well I had a few email request for this information and here it is!
The compnay that makes the Fuel Injection system for small/big block
chevys is Digital Fuel Injection (Divison of Echlin). 29387 Lorie Lane,
Wixom MI 48393. The phone number is 313-380-1322.
they have a few diffrent kits avalibale starting with just a computer and
wiring harness (you supply a GM TPI System) Next one is like the first
plus high flow runners and high flow throttel body. the most complete kit
has all of the above plus complete manifold (don't have to find one)
injectors, fuel pump, match camshaft and engine sensors. DFI also has a
software pkg that runs on a pc to let you adjust all the parameters of
the system. (Including timing if you have a late model Distributor). This
system I saw advertised in Summit for $2695.00.
   They have complete pkgs for big block oval and rectangular ports but
that is about all I know about them.

Ken
From: pt1e+@andrew.cmu.edu (Paul M Taylor)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Jag auto trans
Date: 23 Nov 92 05:51:27 GMT
	<By0nIG.6oB@mentor.cc.purdue.edu>
Distribution: usa
Organization: Sophomore, H&SS general, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA

In article <Mf37Jey00VI=423EY3@andrew.cmu.edu> Paul M Taylor
<pt1e+@andrew.cmu.edu> writes:
{ stuff deleted }
>Yep.  It's called most any automatic.  The Jag uses a GM TH-400 
>last time I checked.  Later models have the 4L80, a HD, OD version
>of the regular 400.  Also shift kits set to street-strip will overide
>the default upshift.
>
Sorry Paul,
   Just could not resist.
  Last time I checked, Ford owned Jaguar....
    What would a GM transmission be doing in a Ford car.....
just my $.02 worth.
                  sirish

____
Sorry Sirish, need to put my .02 worth.  I'm not a jag lover and only
responding to above post which you can see says that the jags had a GM
tranny!!.	
	Paul
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech