HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: hb10+@andrew.cmu.edu (Howard M. Bomze)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: The Future of the Bike
Date: 25 Jan 93 08:58:01 GMT
Article-I.D.: andrew.IfN3UtC00iUz04j4Fr
	<1449@bridge2.NSD.3Com.COM>
Organization: Doctoral student, Biology, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA


    Instead of a great battery for your bike lights how about a wind
powered generator to run the lights, computer, other low power electric
stuff.  It could charge a battery so that every thing would still work
when you stoped moving.


                                                    Howard Bomze
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tthiel@cs.uiuc.edu (Terry Thiel)
Subject: Re: WD-40 To Clean Chains???
Organization: University of Illinois, Dept. of Comp. Sci., Urbana, IL
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 14:38:05 GMT

T0FG000 <T0FG@UNB.CA> writes:
>Basically, I apply WD-40 before every ride and anytime the chain
>becomes wet.  Ordinary oil doesn't seem to do as good a job as the
>spray WD-40
>though it could be just the way I apply it.

Can't be much of a lubricant if you have to apply it before every ride.

>I am wondering what the rest of you do to lube your chain?  Any
>other silly people applying this non-lubricant to their chain?
>Will.

You tried one silicone lubricant and consider yourself informed enoug
to refer to people who don't use WD-40 as "silly".  Get a life.
-Terry
From: ehouse@Apple.COM (Eric House)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Gear for tall/heavy folks (was Re: Selle Italia Flite saddle)
Date: 28 Jan 93 17:47:24 GMT
Organization: Apple Computer Inc, Cupertino, CA

In article <RLK.93Jan27100635@underprize.think.com> rlk@underprize.think.com (Robert Krawitz) writes:
>
>I read a lot of "This isn't rugged enough for someone weighing 175 lbs"
>(or even 150, as in this case).  Given my trouble finding shoes (14/49),
>and that the frame size (60 cm C-C) of my bike was the biggest
>production model, I distinctly get the feeling that most of the
>frame/component makers don't worry too much about us larger folk
>(6'5"/230 lbs).  While the frame fits me OK, and 170 mm cranks actually
>work fine for me (both were measured only slightly on the small side by
>Fit Kit, and I prefer high RPM's to high pedal force), this still leaves
>me wondering what other tall/heavy folks do.
>--

They (you) do the same thing anyone does who wants something for which there
isn't a large enough market to attract the large bike companies: build it
yourself or pay someone else to do it.  Thus until a few years back someone
who wanted a really serious lighting system had to roll his own.  Local
framebuilders find that a lot of their customers are members of Bay Area
professional football and basketball teams.  But even if you're near the
peak of the body-size bell curve and want something unusual -- say a race-
worthy frame that will fit winter tires and fenders -- you're in the same
boat as the pituitary case playing center for the Warriors.

(Yes Terry, I know about the RB-1 :-).
-- 
****************************************************************************
Eric House			"My employer doesn't share its opinions with
RAAM in '93?		   	 me, so I can share only mine with you"
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: bgeer@beorn.sim.es.com (bob geer)
Subject: Re: The Future of the Bike
Reply-To: bgeer@beorn.sim.es.com
Organization: Evans & Sutherland Computer Corp.
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 18:16:55 GMT

jbrandt@hplred.HPL.HP.COM (Jobst Brandt) writes:
>> I have yet to find a comfortable saddle.  I have a Vetta gel
>> saddle (racing style), and it's pretty good compared to most, but
>> after awhile, it feels like a rock.

>As new riders join the ranks, more effort is being made to produce
>saddles for people who are unaccustomed to sitting on the
>conventional bicycle saddle that serves the majority of experienced
>bicyclists well.  Racers don't choose to ride their saddles because
>they are uncomfortable because they ride on them for long distances.

I have seen a few alternative saddles.  One is the sling that is
mounted side-to-side, another one has individual butt cheek platforms
that will move back & forth to accomodate leg motion.  There have been
various covers for traditional seats from water-filled, air-filled,
gel-filled, & the venerable sheep fleece.  Most have not caught on tho
gel seats are common now.  For the more radical there is the recumbent
bike.

What are the odds there is a "perfect" design that hasn't been
conceived yet?

>> I'd also like to see the spelling of "derailleur" revised.  I've
>> never had any problems spelling it, but I'm clearly in the
>> minority, judging by the messages I read. :)

>Maybe it is about time that this word as many other English words
>taken directly from other languages be assimilated and not seen as
>foreign.  After all if we can spell words like eight that is as
>non-phonetic as any, derailleur should come easy.

Spelling is just a rough, tough (where are the "f"s) skill...or is it
an art, or craft?  Maybe it's a comment on cycling that "derailleur"
isn't in some dictionarys?
-- 
<> Bob `Bear' Geer <>   bgeer@beorn.sim.es.com     (this *should* work)   <>
<>     cola-zombie <>   speaking only for myself, one of my many tricks   <>
<> Salt Lake City, <>    "We must strive to be more than we are, Lal."    <>
<>          Ootah  <>           -- Cmdr. Data, learning schmaltz          <>
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: mvolo@ecsvax.uncecs.edu (Michael R. Volow)
Subject: Demise of wool winter jerseys?
Keywords: wool
Organization: UNC Educational Computing Service
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 05:02:28 GMT


Is the wool winter jersey dead. Here, in the home of Performance, they
had a few long sleeve winter jerseys, but in dark colors. Not too
visible or attractive. When I called Nashbar, Colorado Cyclis, and
Excel, they didn't have any either. It seem like everybody is into
high tech fabrics. But I sure would like to get a light colored, long
sleeve wool jersey. Anyone know where?
-- 
Michael Volow, Psychiatry, Durham VA Med Center, Durham NC 27712
919 286 0411 Ext 6933               mvolo@uncecs.edu
From: JForester@cup.portal.com (John - Forester)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Tri-bar safety
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 93 15:18:07 PST
Organization: The Portal System (TM)
Distribution: na

   I am trying to learn of the safety aspects of using tri-bars.
The first time that I conducted a class in which tri-bars were
used (some time ago) I had to prohibit the cyclists who had them
from using them in the group because those tri-bars in use had no
brake levers on them. Therefore the riders could not avoid
running into the rider ahead when the group slowed down or the
rider got going too fast. I have since seen some tri-bars with
brake levers, but I don't know whether the bikes that carry these
also have brake levers in the normal place. If so, what is the
mechanism for linking the action? I have also heard of a rider
who, using a tri-bar on a gentle descent, reached down to change
to a higher gear and experienced uncontrollable oscillations. Is
this a frequent effect, and what is its cause, if anyone knows?

JForester@cup.portal.com                John Forester
                                        726 Madrone Ave
408-734-9426                            Sunnyvale CA 94086 USA 
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: loucks@isrc.sandia.gov (Cliff Loucks)
Subject: Re: WD-40 To Clean Chains???
Organization: Sandia National Labs, Org. 1600, Albq., NM
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 22:31:21 GMT

From article <26JAN93.22493201.0194@UNBVM1.CSD.UNB.CA>, by T0FG000 <T0FG@UNB.CA>:
> I am one of those misguided souls who uses WD-40 as a chain
> 'lubricant'.  I have done so for years, and have not experienced
> problems with my chain disintegrating, collecting excessive dirt, or
> otherwise becoming difficult to use due to the presence of WD-40 on
> it.
[...]
> I am wondering what the rest of you do to lube your chain?  Any
> other silly people applying this non-lubricant to their chain?

Yup.  Me too.  I tried TriFlow once, but the chain and cogs sure got
dirty fast.  I usually clean the chain, chainrings, and cogs every
three to four weeks, and "lubricate" it with WD-40 after it's dry.  It
will get relubricated one or twice between cleanings, depending on the
weather.  I don't know what's in WD-40, as I recall all it says is
petroleum distillates.  Someone once told me he thought it was mostly
kerosene, but I don't know.  Off hand I can't tell you how many miles I
get out of a chain, but it must be around 3 or 4 thousand since I've
been riding between 7 and 8 thousand miles per year and use two chains
per year.  These have been Sedis Sport chains.

Cliff
-- 

Cliff Loucks  <=>  loucks@isrc.sandia.gov
Sandia National Labs, Albuquerque, New Mexico
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tan@lynx.msc.cornell.edu.UUCP (David Tan,Box 219 Baker Lab,54810,2720402)
Subject: Re: Chorus F. Derailer Sticks..
Originator: tan@msc2.msc.cornell.edu
Organization: Cornell-Materials-Science-Center
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 18:34:48 GMT

From article <1jmfg8INNnpe@news.aero.org>, by albelo@aero.org (David J. Albelo):
> Hi, I am trying to fix this problem with my front derailer, and I've
> run out of ideas. The derailer moves fine when I shift up to the big
> ring, but when I go back down to the smaller gears, the derailer moves
> a little then stops and I have to reach down and push it to the smaller
> ring. I think there is some rust on the washers on one of the axles. I
> don't think that it can be disassembled and I don't have any brushes
> small enough to get in there. Does anyone have any ideas that could
> help?

Is there any cable slack?  If you're certain that there is nothing obstructing
the mechanism, then you might check cable tension.  Probably the easiest
way to take out slack is to set the low gear set screw correctly, then screw
it in a turn or two.  Fasten the cable, and back off the set screw.  The
derailleur spring will take up any cable slack. It may take a bit of
messing around to get the hang of it.

I don't understand the business about rust on the washers of the axles.  
What axles are these?  I've managed to disassemble and reassemble almost
completely even the old Victory fd, is the Chorus harder to service?

Good luck,

Dave
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: bcs33424@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Bryan Siegfried)
Subject: Re: WD-40 To Clean Chains???
Reply-To: zig@uiuc.edu
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 14:23:47 GMT

markm@iris.polymer.uakron.edu (Mark Alan Matties) writes:

>what about wd40 as a cleaning agent then a "real" grease to lube the chain?

	That's what I've been told to do.  An earlier poster
said something about WD40 being easy to use.  How is it easier
than using a can of Tri-flo?  Granted, some people dip chains
in parrafin or some other, long greasing strategy.  For us
Tri-flo types, it doesn't take very long at all.  FYI, I'm
not affiliated with Tri-Flo, or even consider it all that
special, it's just a good aerosol lubricant.

-- 
Bryan Siegfried							zig@uiuc.edu
Solvet saeclum in favilla
From: JCIERVO@ECL.PSU.EDU (Joseph P Ciervo)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Removing cranks
Date: 21 Jan 93 19:10:48 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Penn State Engineering Computer Lab
X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.24

In <Orakel.64@sarpih.no> Orakel@sarpih.no writes:

> How to I remove a crank without destroying anything?  The crank fits on a 
> square, and is pressed on by tightening of a nut.  Now; to get it off, you 
> should presumably remove the nut, and then pull the crank off.  Doing this 
> seems to bend the (spokes?) that hold the chainrings.  Any tips anyone?
> 
> R Rostad, Norway


	You need to buy a crank puller ($10 - $15) at you nearest
bike store.
From: danmacd@terapin.com (Daniel Macdougall)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Smoke Weight
Date: 27 Jan 93 11:14:44 PST
Organization: BBS

How much do the Panaracer Smoke Comp. 2.1-inch Kevlar tires weight?

Thank you!

--
Daniel MacDougall
danmacd@terapin.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: EPLUS17@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu (Richard Engelbrecht-Wiggans)
Subject: Re: Info on Rain Suit
Organization: C.C.S.O.
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 00:41:49 GMT

In article <15564.2b5d5067@ohstpy.mps.ohio-state.edu>
klinich@ohstpy.mps.ohio-state.edu writes:
 
>I hope this is the right group for this question.  If not, sorry.  I'm need
>suggestions on a WATERPROOF (not just water-repellant) suit, which is also
>breathable.  I want to start riding my bike to and from work (about a 25 mile
>round trip) all year round.  I guess I'm looking for Gortex, but if there are
>any other miracle fabrics out there I'm game. I don't want to go over board in
>price but I this a couple hundred dollar should be reasonable.  Any help will
>be appreciated.  Thnaks in advance.
>
I think that one's "birthday suit" is the only suit that fits the bill.
In Goretex, I still sweat more than enough to be completely soaked.  I
just figure on getting wet and make sure to have dry stuff along to
change into when I get to where ever I am going.  And, BTW, you might
want to wear something over that birthday suit; on cold rainy days,
that would help keep you warm, and in any case it might be considered
the decent thing to do.
 
..Richard E+17
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: news
From: vannuysd@vax.sonoma.edu
Date: 22 Jan 93 19:40:25 -0800
Organization: Sonoma State University

In either Bicycling or MBA, I read an article that suggested using WD-40
to clean your bike chain.  I tried it and really liked the results.  But
in the current California Bicyclist, there is an article by a mechanic
who tosses off a warning NOT to use WD-40 without giving any rationale.
I liked the ease and effectiveness of WD-40.  Anybody know where this guy
is coming from in warning us off of it?

David Van Nuys
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: Norbert.Zacharias@arbi.informatik.uni-oldenburg.de (Norbert Zacharias)
Subject: Where is Raymond Pipkin OR Front Fork Flexibility
Organization: University of Oldenburg, Germany
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 14:49:56 GMT
Summary: Searching for equations developed by R.Pipkin
Keywords: BIKE TECH, Front Fork Flexibility, Pipkin

Hi all
Some years ago (August 84) there was an article about Front Fork Flexibility
in BIKE TECH by R. Pipkin. He developed an mathematical model of the fork.
Unfortunately he don't publish the basicequations. The footnote say write to
BIKE TECH but BIKE TECH is out of print. So how to get this Eqautions.
If there is one who knows R. Pipkins address or who has a copy of this set
of Equations please let me know.
Thanks in advance
Norbert
-- 
=============================================================================
Norbert Zacharias          Norbert.Zacharias@arbi.informatik.uni-oldenburg.de
			   Norbert.Zacharias@hp9000.hrz.uni-oldenburg.de
FB Physik                                               148964@DOLUNI1.bitnet
Carl-von-Ossietzky-Universitaet
Tel. 0049-441-7983527
 Was Du nicht willst das man Dir tu, das will auch nicht was willst denn Du?
							   Heinz Erhardt
=============================================================================
From: yschin@ccu.umanitoba.ca (Yu-Shin Chin)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Avocet Computer sensor mount
Date: 22 Jan 93 16:22:29 GMT
Organization: University of Manitoba, Canada

In article <1993Jan16.223111.21416@microsoft.com>, philba@microsoft.com (Phil Barrett) writes:
|> I got a C50 and my wife a C30 for xmas.  I mounted both of them but am
|> very suprised at the poor quality of the sensor mount.  Just a wire tie
|> and a plastic mounting thingy that the tie threads through.  I couldn't
|> get either to mount in a really solid fashion.  While they seem to work
|> ok, I can see that the sensor mount will be moving around a fair amount
|> and will probably at times give false readings as well as require some
|> general tweaking.  Is there a better mount out there?  I've got a
|> couple of ideas but before I start fussing around, I wanted to see if
|> there was a tried-n-true product (or idea) out there.  


My brother has an Avocet c40 and had problems mounting it onto the dropouts of his Manitou forks.  One of the bike shops suggested using clear silicone to bond the sensor onto the dropout.  The person at the hardware store sold us some clear urathane(I think the spelling is incorrect) it took about 24 hours for the urathane to set(dry).  It is now securely mounted onto the dropout, and we still used the zip-tie as a backup in the event that the urathane bond fails(makes sure that the sensor doesn't fall in




to the spokes).

sam
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tthiel@cs.uiuc.edu (Terry Thiel)
Subject: Re: WD-40 To Clean Chains???
Organization: University of Illinois, Dept. of Comp. Sci., Urbana, IL
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 00:49:04 GMT

tee@ecf.toronto.edu (TEE LUNS) writes:
>In article <1993Jan23.155237.1@vax.sonoma.edu> vannuysd@vax.sonoma.edu writes:
>>In either Bicycling or MBA, I read an article that suggested using WD-40
>>to clean your bike chain.  I tried it and really liked the results.  But
>>in the current California Bicyclist, there is an article by a mechanic
>>who tosses off a warning NOT to use WD-40 without giving any rationale.
>>I liked the ease and effectiveness of WD-40.  Anybody know where this guy
>>is coming from in warning us off of it?                                        
>    I think the concern is that some people seem to believe that WD-40 is a
>good chain LUBRICANT, which it isn't. For cleaning chains, its great. For
>lubricating, it's pretty worthless.
I've been told that WD-40 contains water so it's not a good idea to use it
as a lubricant.  Don't know if that's true or not though.
-Terry
-- 
-Terry
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: jamie@garfield.cs.mun.ca (Jamie Cashin)
Subject: HELP! Crank length & 32 vs. 36 Spoke
Organization: CS Dept., Memorial University of Newfoundland
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 15:32:04 GMT


Help!

I am purchasing a new mountain bike this week and I am trying to decide
whether to get 175 or 180 mm cranks.  I am 183 cm tall (6' 2") but am
mostly legs having a 91 cM (36") inseam.

I rode on 170 mm cranks two years ago, and found them uncomfortable, like I
was on a childs tricycle.  Last year I switched to 175's and liked them.  I
read in the November issue of "Mountain Bike Action" in an article called
"Secret Setup Tips of the Pros" (p. 100) that people over 6' tall should use
180's.  I sometimes experience mild knee pain, so I want to keep a decent
cadence, suggesting shorter cranks.  But at the same time, I like the
comfort and torque of longer cranks.  The knee pain is usually at the
beginning of the season and never amounts to more than a mild discomfort.
It usually only affects my right knee.  The pain went away completely
last year after adjusting the cleats on my SPD shoes.  I also tend to go at
it a little harder than I should at the beginning of the year (but hey, our
season is too short!)

What's the net general opinion?

This one's probably to Jobst.

I am trying to decide whether to leave the stock 32 spoke wheels on the rear,
or go with a 36 spoke.  Both would be relatively the same price, the local
shop ("Earle Industries" for local readers) is awesome in the customer
service department.

I'm wondering if having a different number of spokes on front and rear is
going to cause me some problem I don't yet know about.  My concern is more
with strength than speed, and I can't see 4 spokes and nipples adding that
much wind drag and weight, and I like the strength benefits.  Is there that
much difference?  I'm 85 Kilograms (about 190#) and 183 cM (6' 2") tall and
I tend to ride hard with a balance of off-road and on-road (on-road only long
enough to get to the off-road :)

The bike incidentally is full Shimano Deore XT built on a Cadex CFM-2 frame.
I have added alloy bar ends, Shimano Deore XT SPD pedals and nothing else.
Any suggestions for nice additions (such as Ringle seatpost binder, etc.)
would be appreciated.  Functionality and strength is more important than cost.

Jamie
-- 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
"To explore new worlds, seek out new             "be excellent to each other"
 life forms.   To go boldly where no
 DOS  programmer  has  gone before!"                 jamie@garfield.cs.mun.ca
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tthiel@cs.uiuc.edu (Terry Thiel)
Subject: Re: Difference between Trek 2000 and 1400 frameset
Organization: University of Illinois, Dept. of Comp. Sci., Urbana, IL
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 02:06:06 GMT

CTB103@psuvm.psu.edu (Chad Burkins) writes:
>In article <C17tMA.3F6@cs.uiuc.edu>, tthiel@cs.uiuc.edu (Terry Thiel) says:
>>When was his 1400 made?  Trel changed the type of aluminum they used several
>>years ago.  The newer type (Easton?) is supposed to be lightly lighter and
>>stronger.  Also I remember the 2000 was a little less stiff in the rear
>>triangle than the newer Trel aluminums.
>  I'm guessing that both bikes are '90 or '91.  I checked and both
>bikes are constructed of the Easton Aluminum.  That's interesting
>about the rear triangle though, maybe we'll have to experiment a bit
>and see if it's true....

I thought they stopped making the 2000 more than a few years ago.  Of course
they just started calling it the 1400.  I know there is some difference in the
aluminum but can't remember what.  Call Trek to find out for sure or a local
dealer may know.
-Terry
-- 
-Terry
From: ben.elliston@p1.f262.n620.z3.fidonet.org (ben elliston)
Sender: gateway@f262.n620.z3.fidonet.org
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Pinging noise
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 17:59:00

Has anyone ever worked out what that pinging noise is when your weight is over a front wheel?  It sounds like spokes shifting.

Thanks.

Cheers, Ben

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: nasdrock@grebyn.com (NASD - Rockville)
Subject: Re: Selle Italia Flite saddle
Organization: Grebyn Timesharing
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 03:43:38 GMT

I missed the discussion also but my Flite had the leather wear away
where it rubs agains the inside of the thigh and i've seen this on
other peoples Flites also
From: dunning@bgsu.edu (Larry Dunning)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Phil BB removal
Date: 26 Jan 93 20:24:52 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Bowling Green State Univ.

I plan to install Phil Wood bottom brackets on my new C-Dale road
tandem frame.  Phil suggests using their steel lockrings and 
using Loctite (blue) when installing these into the aluminum bottom
brackets.  My concern is for the safety of the aluminum threads in
the rear bottom bracket which are essentially the same as those on
most C-Dale bicycles. Yes, I know blue Locktite is "removable with
hand tools", but that statement does little to aleviate my concern.
[Of course I really should not be concerned at all because a Phil
 BB will last forever. :-) ]

1. Has anyone had occasion to remove one of these?
   Did you have any problems?
   Do you have any hints on technique?

2. A previous poster on a similar topic mentioned "purple" 
   Loctite and seemed to suggest that it had a weaker strength.
   I cannot find any information on this (another brand?)
   Does this exist and could it be useful?

3. Any installation hints that you would care to share?

Thanks,      -Larry (dunning@andy.bgsu.edu)

-- 
Larry A. Dunning                             dunning@andy.bgsu.edu
Dept. of Computer Science
Bowling Green State Univ.
Bowling Green, Ohio  43403-0214
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tthiel@cs.uiuc.edu (Terry Thiel)
Subject: Re: WD-40 To Clean Chains???
Organization: University of Illinois, Dept. of Comp. Sci., Urbana, IL
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 14:35:43 GMT

eisele@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (Jon Eisele) writes:
>> I liked the ease and effectiveness of WD-40.  Anybody know where this
>> guy is coming from in warning us off of it?
>WD-40 seems to attract and hold dirt.  Also, you still need to apply
>some other lubricant as WD-40 won't last long (especially if it rains).
>Jon

What's wrong with Tri-flow?  Isn't it just as easy to use?  It's certainly
more effective.
-Terry
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech