HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: perley@trub.crd.ge.com (Donald P Perley)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Removing oil from driveway
Date: 8 Nov 92 14:46:10 GMT
Organization: GE Corp. R & D, Schenectady, NY 12345

In article <barrett.721082726@cc.gatech.edu> barrett@terminus.gatech.edu (James Barrett) writes:


   tenants evidently had a problem with oil leaks in their car, because
   there is quite a bit of oil at the top of the driveway.  Is there
   any way to remove this or at least help stop it from being dragged into


Spread speedy-dry (as it's sold to garages) or kitty litter (as it's sold
to pet owners) on the oil.  If there is a lot of oil, then just let it sit
for 20 or 30 minutes then shovel it up after it's soaked. Otherwise (or for
the 2nd run) use a broom to mix it around and grind it into the pavement with
your feet.

After you've gotten all you can with the speedy-dry, it shouldn't track in the
house.  You can finish up with something like spic'n'span if it's a concrete
driveway.. I've never tried it on asphalt.


-don perley
--
perley@trub.crd.ge.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: keith@clodii.Columbia.NCR.COM (Keith Boyd)
Subject: Re: Attack of the Woodpecker!
Organization: NCR E&M Columbia SC
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 92 21:19:19 GMT

In article <122210037@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM> goris@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Andy Goris) writes:
>Woodpeckers aren't usually pecking for food in this situation, they're
>signalling for a mate.  I just finished patching over 20 holes in our
>cedar siding (brand new, heavily treated, so there's NO insects).  The
>woodpeckers look for a nice LOUD place to peck.  Most of our holes went
>all the way to the insulation :-(.
>
>We put out one of those inflatable owls and that seemed to work.  The
>inflatable snakes aren't as effective, and ours leaked :-(.  Shooting
>the bird with a pellet gun is also effective ;-).

Be careful here. This came up in rec.hunting once when someone asked
for advice about a woodpecker making racket on the side of his house.
WOODPECKERS ARE FEDERALLY PROTECTED SPECIES. DO NOT SUGGEST TO ANYONE
THAT THEY SHOOT IT WITH ANYTHING AT ALL. Besides, they are fascinating
to watch. 


>  Finally, I read in
>a pamphlet from the Colorado Wildlife Dept. that if you hang a piece
>of cedar, with a perch in your yard where they can peck and make lots
>of noise, they'll peck on this instead of your house.
>
>GOOD LUCK!
>
>Andy Goris       goris@fc.hp.com

I suggest making a "tree" using a 4ft. section of 5" dia. PVC. 
Wrap a layer of coarse screen wire around it and attach permanantly
with screws. This is so the wodpeckers will be able to hang onto it.
Paint to match a tree in your area. Mount this fake tree to your
house, chimney, or on a separate pole in the yard. It should make
plenty of noise if Woody decides to come pecking. 

Later...

Keith

-- 
| Keith M. Boyd  (NCR MCPD Cola.) | Nothing could be finer than huntin' and  |
| 3325 Platt Springs Rd.          |    and fishin' in South Carolina! -Me-   | 
| West Cola., S.C. 29170 |  Go Volunteers!   | keith.boyd@columbiasc.NCR.COM |
| Vp: 803-791-6419 or 6455    | From uunet: uunet!ncrcom!ncrcae!clodii!keith |
From: connie@sw.stratus.com (Connie Lopes)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Ceiling Fan Recommendations Wanted
Date: 11 Nov 92 14:15:23 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Stratus Computer, Inc.
NNTP-Posting-Host: saigon.sqa.stratus.com

> 
> I think Casablanca brand fans are hugely overrated.  They're very
> pretty, but they're poorly designed.
> 
> - The Casablanca "Intelli-touch" fans have unacceptable design
>   brain-damage.  (AC line noise sensitivity, in particular.)
> 
> - The non-"Intelli-touch" fan motors are relatively noisy.
> 
> - All have problems with the blade attachment.  The dealer
>   couldn't get Casablanca to acknowledge there was a problem,
>   even though two of my four fans broke just after the warranty
>   expired.
> 

I have two Casablanca fans. One uses "Intelli-touch" because it hangs
14 feet above my livingroom.  I have never had any AC line noise. I've
had this fan for 4 years and love it. It's quiet and very durable.

I also bought one two years ago for over our dining room table and
couldn't be happier. I believe they are the best going. 

I built each of my fans. Picked out the motor I wanted, then the light
fixture for it and then the style of blades. They are both very reliable
and attractive.

Go to a few fan dealerships and read up on them and look at the displays.
I shopped and looked for a month. When I bought I was familiar with all
the names and styles. I got a real good deal because a sale appeared and
I was familiar with the prices and jumped on the deal.

I installed these myself, assembled them with no problem, and would buy
another in a minute.

Connie
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: sprinkle@convex.com (Robert Sprinkle)
Subject: leaving house with VA loan
Organization: CONVEX Computer Corporation, Richardson, Tx., USA
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 23:24:37 GMT
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by a user at CONVEX Computer
              Corp. The opinions expressed are those of the user and
              not necessarily those of CONVEX.

I assumed an existing VA loan about 5 years ago on my current home.  The
divorce occurred about a year ago and I got the home and the monster
mortgage payment.  I was stubborn enough to try and keep the house even
with the big payment.  Reality has set in and I must leave the house.
I have little or no equity.  So selling the house will probably be a loss
situation.
Although I have no doubt it would not be the best thing to do  I have
considered giving it back to the mortgage company.  As I understand it
the following would happen......
1. The mortgage company would go to the VA for the loan guarantee.
2. The VA would go to the original buyer for recourse.
I know there would be a blight on my credit report butit already looks like
an exploded mine field.  My question is would I be pretty much out of the
picture as far as the VA and the mortgage company are concerned?
I really dont want to screw the original buyer but, I am in a pretty
tight spot and may be forced to do something I really dont want to do.
If anybody out there has had any expierence in this area I would really
appreciate the benifit of your expierences
The mortgage company and I breathlessly await your replies.
Bob Sprinkle
:wq


Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: billj@b11.ingr.com (Bill Johnson)
Subject: Re: better mouse trap needed
Organization: Intergraph Corp. Huntsville, AL
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 19:39:30 GMT

In article <10440030@neal.CND.HP.COM>, neal@neal.CND.HP.COM (Neal Bauer) writes:
|> > The windup trap (Catchall or something like that) works astoudingly well.
|> 
|> I've had considerable trouble with this trap.  I use it because it's a live
|> trap and all I want to do is move the mice, not kill them.  However, many 
|> times a mouse ends up caught between the "paddle" and the edge of the box,
|> dying unpleasantly slow.  
|> 
|> Neal

I experienced a minor mouse problem last winter.  I let Orkin handle the
problem.  They sprayed a white powder chemical into the areas we suspected the
mouse to be travelling.  Apparently, mice clean themselves much like a cat does.
When the mice lick the powder off their feet and ingest it, the chemical causes
the mice to bleed internally.  This makes them thirsty, and they leave their
hiding place in search of water.  By the time they reach the water, they are
dead.  I found my two mice near the air conditioning condensation drain a few
days after the chemial was applied.  This checmical breaks down in a very short 
time, so there is no long-term danger to the residents of the home.  Of course,
if you have mice problems again later, they'd have to come and spray again...

Bill Johnson
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (patterson,george r)
Subject: Re: Questions on Cabinets from Home Depot,Bldrs Square, etc.
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 92 21:16:11 GMT

In article <1992Nov10.211621.27903@donner.SanDiego.NCR.COM> davel@booboo.SanDiego.NCR.COM (David Lord) writes:
>
>Acually most or all of Home Depot's cabinets come flat-packed. You assemble,
>you install.

As far as I know, only the "Mill's Pride" line comes disassembled. The middle
of the price band line (flat panel and stile doors) comes assembled. I
installed a set of these in a friend's kitchen last July. We barely squeezed
them into an extended cab pickup.

>.......................................... Getting a professional looking
>installation is a lot more work than you might think, though now that
>I think about it I've seen a number of professional installations that
>didn't look all that great. The big tricks are getting them to match up
>to each other in spite of uneven walls and floors, and screwing them
>together so that there are no gaps. Getting all the filler boards cut
>just right and installed neatly looks like quite a chore too.

It certainly is. Having a table saw on the premises is a big help.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | The origin of the English slang term "boffin"
                    | for scientist is not known; however, it has been
George Patterson -  | pointed out that the eggs of the Puffin are perfect
                    | obloids which always return to the same position
                    | if pushed and that this is also true of the ideas
                    | expressed by boffins.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: melissa@spanky.Jpl.Nasa.Gov (Melissa Probst)
Subject: Re: GE microwaves
Keywords: GE products
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory, Pasadena, CA
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 20:35:00 GMT

In article <1992Nov9.190953.2076@lmpsbbs.comm.mot.com> marsan@marsan.comm.mot.com (Mark Marsan) writes:
>A previous thread trashed Sears products - I guess it is time to trash
>GE products and repair services!  I had a GE refrigerator serviced this summer
>by an independent repairman whose diagnosis was a dead compressor. 
>He advised me to contact the GE repair department as it should be under warranty.
>His opinion, and experience, was that GE had installed an inferior compressor in
>their refrigerators in the late 80's and many are failing now. I contacted GE 
>and, of course, found out that the warranty had expired two months earlier (now 
The same thing happened to our GE refrigerator we bought in 1987.  However,
after contacting GE repair they told us that the compressors they had
installed in these models were inferior, and they replaced it free of charge.
They knew that many would fail, but rather than a total recall of them
they would replace them as they failed. Our warranty had expired a year
prior to the compressor going out. They did reimburse us for the food
that we lost.

We also have a GE microwave purchased in 1983 and have had very good luck
with it.  Our TV, purchased in 1981 is also a GE and it is still going
strong.

Based on our experiences, I would definitely recommend GE products and
repair services!

Melissa Probst
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: kevinn@kpc.com (Kevin Nguyen)
Subject: Legal Advise on Double Escrow Accounts Please
Organization: Kubota Pacific Computer Inc, Santa Clara, CA
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 00:56:39 GMT


Hi everyone,

There months ago I deposited $3000.00 into the Escrow account for the house I wanted to buy.  However, the loan did not approve by the leander due to my credit history.  The sellers sold this house to another buyer and it schedules to close next week.  However, the sellers still hold my $3000.00 in the Escrow account and the Escrow account due to close next week.  Is this legal?  What should I do in this case?  How do I get my money back.

Please use my E-mail address below.

Thanks in advance.

Kevinn
-- 

Kevin Nguyen				Kubota Pacific Computer Inc.
Internet E-mail kevinn@kpc.com		uucp E-mail kpc.com!kevinn
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (patterson,george r)
Subject: Re: Fill old well in basement?
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 92 16:32:44 GMT

In article <27425@oasys.dt.navy.mil> odell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Bernard O'Dell) writes:
>My daughter bought an old house, had a new well dug outside, but
>now, the old well, which turns out to be 50` deep-5` wide, now
>needs to be filled--requires 4` of concrete on bottom, and 4` of
>concrete on top with fill (dirt/gravel/?) in between.

>Another idea was to check with an excavator, and have them
>bring over the dirt, and with some kind of "conveyor" through
>the basement window, fill the hole up.--haven't checked this one out
>yet.

Large concrete suppliers will have concrete "pumps". These are screw
driven units with discharge tubes that are about 6" in diameter. Check
with one of these outfits to see if they have one that can move sand,
dirt, or gravel. This is likely to be an expensive option.

You also might be able to get by with building a sort of chute out of
plywood. You could then place your wheelbarrow in the basement, load it
through the window, using the chute to channel the dirt, and eliminate
trips up and down the stairs.

The cheapest solution would be to use a wheelbarrow to move the dirt
down the stairs (as you suggested) and sell tickets. I'd pay good money
to see that trick!

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | Always acknowledge a fault frankly. This will
George Patterson -  | throw those in authority off their guard and give
                    | you the opportunity to commit more.
                    |                        Samuel Clemens
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: davel@booboo.SanDiego.NCR.COM (David Lord)
Subject: Re: Questions on Cabinets from Home Depot,Bldrs Square, etc.
Reply-To: davel@booboo.SanDiego.NCR.COM (David Lord)
Organization: NCR Corporation, Rancho Bernardo
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 21:16:21 GMT

In article <1992Nov10.164131.12463@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (patterson,george r) writes:
>In article <1dojgrINNfb6@eagle.natinst.com> darrenl@natinst.com (Darren Lilie) writes:
>
>>I've seen estimated prices for the different kitchens that they have set up,
>>the cheapest being around $1100. This sign also says does not include
>>countertop,sink, or appliances.  I'm assuming this doesnt include labor either.
>>Is that correct? Do these cabinets come disassembled?  If labor isn't included
>>how much do they charge(per hour or per linear foot)?
>
>Don't know about the labor. Since the lowest price Home Depot cabinets
>would cost around $600 for a small kitchen, I would bet labor is included.
>Their cabinets come preassembled, so they are quite bulky. If you're picking
>them up, count on two trips with a typical small pickup; maybe one with a
>full size pickup.

Acually most or all of Home Depot's cabinets come flat-packed. You assemble,
you install. I haven't checked what they charge for installation. On one
of the home improvement type shows (Hometime?) they installed modular
cabinets such as those sold at Home Depot. Getting a professional looking
installation is a lot more work than you might think, though now that
I think about it I've seen a number of professional installations that
didn't look all that great. The big tricks are getting them to match up
to each other in spite of uneven walls and floors, and screwing them
together so that there are no gaps. Getting all the filler boards cut
just right and installed neatly looks like quite a chore too.
From: ram@watson.bms.com (Gena Ram)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Molding
Date: 8 Nov 92 14:56:00 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Bristol Myers Squibb Pharmaceutical Research Institute
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.4-b1

In article <4134@bcstec.ca.boeing.com>, mtw8527@bcstec.ca.boeing.com (Mike Wallach) writes...
>What is the proper way to install/attach moulding to a surface/wall?
>Does it only need to be nailed up or should it also be glued/tacked
>so the moulding is flush to the wall thru out its run?
>If it should be tacked or glued what do you use?
> 
>			Mike Wallach
>			mtw8527@eeidf002.ca.boeing.com


If you are using trim that is not heavy enough to stay true, then you need 
better trim.  If you glue the trim to the wall and ever have to remove it, you 
will tear the wall apart, or at least tear the paper surface away from the 
sheetrock.  The standard procedure is to nail the trim peices into the jambs 
and header of the door frame and through the sheetrock into the studs and 
plate behind the sheetrock.  

You should then use wood filler to fill the holes from the nails (use finish 
nails long enough to go into the framing, and use a nail set).  Use calk to 
fill any gaps between the trim and the wall, using only enough to hide any 
voids.  The calk is less a sealing device and more of a visual thing.  It will 
give you the look (neat and professional) without making repairs/replacments a 
nightmare.

If my description confuses you, look at a detail diagram in a home improvement 
book, it will show a section through the wall at different points.  Please 
don't use glue.

Gena  RAM@bms.com
From: gchin@ssf.Eng.Sun.COM (Gary Chin)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Questions on Cabinets from Home Depot,Bldrs Square, etc.
Date: 11 Nov 1992 00:06:43 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems
Distribution: world
Reply-To: gchin@ssf.Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: ssf

In article 1dojgrINNfb6@eagle.natinst.com, darrenl@natinst.com (Darren Lilie) writes:
>I'm going to be replacing the cabinets and countertop in my kitchen and was
>thinking of going to Home Depot and Bldrs Square to give them measurements
>of the kitchen so they can put it on their computer.  There is a couple of
>things I wanted to know first before talking with them.
>
>I've seen estimated prices for the different kitchens that they have set up,
>the cheapest being around $1100. This sign also says does not include
>countertop,sink, or appliances.  I'm assuming this doesnt include labor either.

Right, labor is extra.  Usually people find their own contractor.

>Is that correct? Do these cabinets come disassembled?  If labor isn't included
>how much do they charge(per hour or per linear foot)?
>
>Also, I wanted a blue countertop and it looks like they dont carry that color
>in their store so it would have to be ordered.  What is an approximate price
>for this.(The countertop would be L shaped with each leg being about 10ft long).
>
>I would appreciate any info anyone has so I can get an idea of how much it will
>cost before sitting down with the salesperson.

That's the opposite of what I did.  The salesperson is supposed to help you
plan your kitchen layout and estimate the cost of the cabinets.  Then, you
can go to several contractors and have them estimate the rest of the costs.

It pays to talk to the past customers of contractors to hear the pros and cons.

|-------------------|
| Gary Chin         |
| Staff Engineer    |
| Sun Microsystems  |
| Mt. View, CA      |
| gchin@Eng.Sun.Com |
|-------------------|

>
>Thanks,
>Darren
>
>P.S. Oh yeah, the countertop would be the laminated kind like they have in 
>their store.
>
> 




Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: wilcox@stsci.edu
Subject: Re: Oil Furnace Trouble
Organization: Space Telescope Science Institute
Distribution: na
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1992 22:41:02 GMT

In article <Bx5Do3.C0z@wang.com>, bcd@wang.com (Bruce Dickerson) writes:
> Howdy,
>      I have a Oil burning furnace which has developed a smokey/oil-soot
> problem.  Lately, when the furnace comes on, black smoke can be seen coming
> from the chimney and in the basement, an oily black soot is appearing on the
> top of the furnace surface.  What is the problem?  The furnace is for a hot
> water baseboard heating system as well as for hot-water (it has a 5 gal. 
> "tankless" coil").  Is there some sort of carberation system that needs
> adjustment?  I had to replace the hot-water coil shortly after we moved in,
> as well as add a water softener.  The furnace is about 8 years old.  I called
> our oil guy and he said his first opening is Nov. 19th!  I generally do all
> of my own work, but with this I don't know where to start.  Any help will
> be *greatly* appreciated.

As one person said you might have a faulty nozzle. Apparently it is burning
too rich which in turn causes soot from the unburned oil. Also you need to 
check the air mixture. If its' anything like mine, there is an adjustment on 
or near the motor for airflow.


Of course the best thing is to have a qualified technician check it out .
Next year have it cleaned and verified prior to the crazy season ( Sept to 
April).

My furnace is 20 years old (Thatcher model) and still going strong. Of course
it looks like something out of Captain Nemo's submarine ( also hot water
baseboard ) but it works great (knock on wood).

                                 Good luck and beware of CO.
                                              Dave W.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: rusty@nssdc.gsfc.nasa.gov (Kenneth Hall)
Subject: Re: Getting Ready to Sell House: How to Make it Most Appealing?
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA - Goddard Space Flight Center
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 14:01:00 GMT

In article <SEG.92Nov12064025@cbncp1.ATT.COM>, seg@cbncp1.ATT.COM (Scott Gordon) writes...
>In article <2080@coyote.UUCP> drake@drake.almaden.ibm.com (Sam Drake) writes:
> 
> 
>An easy "trick" to getting the good smell is to place some vanilla on
>a cotton swab and rub that on top of a light-bulb that will be turned
>on.  (Gee - I wonder why I don't do that every day of the year instead
>of just trying to sell a house :-).)  It really does work, and takes
>almost no time.  (It's cheaper than a bread-maker, too!)

Footnote to this trick:

     Use clear vanilla extract or better yet put the cotton ball close 
to the light bulb but not on it.  Putting the typical dark extract on 
the bulb will cause a dark "Hot" spot on the bulb when dry and greatly 
shorten the life span of the bulb to about a week.