HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: "tank" superchargers
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 22 Sep 92 21:00:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> I'd venture to say that nobody had mentioned it because brake fluid
-> is an imcompressible liquid...

 Well, relatively, anyway.  Unfortunately, the flexible lines in the
braking system flex, drums flex, and calipers flex.  We're not just
talking theoretical here - it's not uncommon to see *visible* flex.
                                      
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: J066610@LMSC5.IS.LMSC.LOCKHEED.COM
Subject: Fuel Injection Question
Organization: Lockheed Missiles & Space Company, Inc.
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 92 04:55:39 GMT

Does anyone out there know if there is the equivalent of a choke (cold
start vavle ???) for fuel injected cars?  I have been trying to narrow
down a problem I'm having with my fuel-injected Acura and the symptoms `
it is giving me are similar to a carburated engine with a choke that
sticks shut after the car has warmed up.

-Dan
From: jeff.masterman@cutting.hou.tx.us (Jeff Masterman) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: incurable brake shimmy
Date: 28 Sep 92 11:26:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: The Cutting Edge - Houston, TX - 713-466-1525
Reply-To: jeff.masterman@cutting.hou.tx.us (Jeff Masterman) 

JBH>I measured the runout of all four disks and they were well within
JBH>specs.  The worst runout was 0.0020" (spec is 0.0059").  Since rotors
JBH>aren't too expensive, I replaced the both front rotors and repacked
JBH>the bearings following the procedure in the Toyota service manual.
JBH>Now, if anything, the shimmy is a bit worse.
Did you torque the wheel studs with a torque wrench? I believe it is 85
ft lbs. Tighten them in a star pattern. I have cured several this way.
---
 . OLX 2.2 . Back Up My Hard Drive? I Can't Find The Reverse Switch!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Threshold braking (was Re: "tank" superchargers)
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 3 Oct 92 09:56:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> >nothing wrong with brakes, alignment, or tires, most front engine,
-> rear >wheel drive cars will lock the right front tire first during a
-> >maximum-effort stop.

> ummm, i'll grant that this is probably true for the GM and Ford
> products that you're accustomed to; i have sensed no such behaviour
> from the european and japanese cars that most of my experience is
> with.

 Odd.  My German Capri and RX7 *used* to qualify as European and
Japanese.  Did I forget something?

 Perhaps you need to practice maximum-effort braking a little more.
When was the last time you spent an afternoon making runs at a stop box?
                                                                                 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mhm104@access.digex.com (Mitch Markowitz)
Subject: Morning Stall on Honda Accord
Summary: stalling problem on a Honda Accord
Organization: Express Access Online Communications, Greenbelt, MD USA
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 21:24:35 GMT

Hello, 

     I have a 1984 Honda Accord with 86,000 miles on it.  The body is in perfect condition and so is the engine...with one exception.  In cold weather, in the morning, the car takes at least 15-20 min to warm-up.  If I dare move the car before this time period, I can be almost sure that it will stall out on the road at the first stop light.

     The car has bee to the dealer four times.  The last time, last winter, they replaced the insulator block under the carb.  they assured me this would do the trick.  It did for awhile.  Now, this morning, which was cold, it did it again.  Does anyone have any ideas?   Any help would be appreciated.


                               Thanks,

                                 Mitch Markowitz

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: Engine cranks but not running
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 12:28:10 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL
Keywords: 350 Buick engine

 I'd pull the top off the carb and have a look. I expect you'll see 
something unlike gasoline. The bowl may be dry or may be gummed with
what was once gas. To check whether the bowl has fuel, use the 
accelerator pump. Jerk the throttle open and listen/look/smell for
a jet of gas. If you don't get any then off comes the carb.

 Sometimes a carb that has been sitting ends up with the float valve
gummed shut. This prevents the carb from refilling even when it's
empty. 
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
From: exuclh@exu.ericsson.se (Calvin L. Hall, x 6521, s034)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Caravan/Plymouth AC & Cooling Fan Relays
Date: 1 Oct 92 10:33:59 GMT
Reply-To: exuclh@exu.ericsson.se
Organization: Ericsson Network Systems, Inc.
X-Disclaimer: This article was posted by a user at Ericsson in North America.
              The opinions expressed are strictly those of the user and
              not necessarily those of Ericsson.

Summary: 
Keywords: 

How many of you have experienced problems with the relays 
located on the driver's side firewall? I've had several 
problems as a result of these relays going bad. When they
go out there is no way of knowing that either your AC or 
engine radiator fan are not running. The worst result is
the engine overheats and breaks a head gaskit or head.
Additionally, on the engine cooling side, there is a 
heat activated switch at the bottom of the radiator that
must send a signal to the relay. Thus, if either the switch
or the relay is bad, the fan will not operate. The problem
is further complicated because these two items work
occasionally, and usually all of the time when you or 
a mechanic is trying to find the problem. 

This type of setup is bad. Chrysler should have provided some
sort of indicator to let the user know which item is defective.

Does anyone know if they acknowledged this problem and if they 
provided assistance in any past case?

Thanks
Calvin
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: tgl@slee01.srl.ford.com (Tom Leone)
Subject: Re: Cracked Head Chrysler/Mitsubishi 2.2l
Organization: Ford Motor Company Scientific Research Labs, Dearborn, MI
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 16:02:44 GMT

brein@gpvax.jpl.nasa.gov (Barry Rein) writes:
: I have an 1987 Plymouth Sundance with the Mitsubishi 2.2 liter Turbo. 
: 
: It seems there is a cylinder head problem--bubbles in the radiator.

I had a similar problem with my 1988 Sundance turbo.  It was just the
head gasket (the head was fine, not even warped).  It cost me $18
and a weekend of labor to fix it.

By the way, the 2.2 liter regular and turbo engines are original
Chrysler designs.  They even published an interesting SAE paper
about the development of the turbo version.

Tom Leone <tgl@slee01.srl.ford.com>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: adamstr@cc.uvcc.edu
Subject: Diesel engine info wanted
Organization: Utah Valley Community College
Date: 2 Oct 92 11:07:32 -0700

THANK-YOU to  alan@berlioz.nsc.com   who responded to basically this
same request as posted to rec.autos.driving - I am posting here hoping
to get some more feedback.

I'm interested in hearing from those of you who own trucks with
one of the following diesel engines:

	Navistar 7.3l (Ford)
	Cummins  5.9l (Dodge)
	GM       6.5l turbo

Please include mileage figures, maintenance costs, likes and dislikes,
driveability, and if given the chance to do it all again, would you buy
the same vehicle. Also, to 7.3 owners, have you considered adding a
turbo? If you have a turbo on your 7.3, please give me an idea of
power/performance/mileage figures as they compare to those of the
stock 7.3. Thanks.....

	adamstr@cc.uvcc.edu

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty)
Subject: Re: Threshold braking (was Re: "tank" superchargers)
Organization: New York State Institute for Sebastian Cabot Studies
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 21:12:22 GMT

In article <388.88.uupcb@chaos.lrk.ar.us> dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)  writes:

> Odd.  My German Capri and RX7 *used* to qualify as European and
>Japanese.  Did I forget something?

excuse me; i must have missed something.  however, i still haven't seen
the lockup behaviour you describe.

> Perhaps you need to practice maximum-effort braking a little more.
>When was the last time you spent an afternoon making runs at a stop box?

my last sessions of purely braking exercises were a year and a half ago,
but i get regular track sessions so my braking isn't that rusty.  this
business about right side wheels locking up is out of the blue, as far
as i'm concerned; i have never seen nor heard of anything of this sort
in my previous experience.

since you claim to be an expert, why don't you explain why this happens?

richard
-- 
richard welty                            518-393-7228
welty@cabot.balltown.cma.com
  ``if you can read this, mario, you're too close''
    -- bumper sticker seen on a CART safety truck
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: davison@rtsg.mot.com (Carl D. Davison)
Subject: Quad 4 Spark Plugs
Summary: How to change spark plugs on a Quad 4?
Keywords: Quad 4 spark plugs
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Distribution: global
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 18:24:11 GMT


Has anyone changed spark plugs on a Quad 4 engine?  I'm trying to
find out what parts I need to remove to get at the spark plugs. 
Also, I'd like to know about any pitfalls before trying this.

Carl Davison 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: tgl@slee01.srl.ford.com (Tom Leone)
Subject: Re: Carb questions
Organization: Ford Motor Company Scientific Research Labs, Dearborn, MI
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 15:36:07 GMT

bhhardy@cs.utk.edu (Barbara Hardy) writes:
: 
: I've got an 85 Dodge Omni with 112K (really!) and a carb that I
: rebuilt recently. It doesn't run a whole lot better now, and I am sure

A common problem on older Omnis is deterioration of the
rubber-coated spacer plate between the carb and the intake
manifold.  It starts to flake apart and get little bits of
rubber into the carb (which screws up the carb).  If you didn't
replace this when you rebuilt the carb, you may have to start
all over again.

Tom Leone <tgl@slee01.srl.ford.com>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: alter@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (Eric Alter)
Subject: Re: Car storage
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 13:21:38 GMT
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM Rochester

In article <1a80npINN8n9@bigboote.WPI.EDU>, walkerr@yaya.WPI.EDU (Robert A Walker) writes:
|> 
|> >what I need.  Basically I need to know the steps involved in the long term
|> >storage of a car.  I recall someone posted a memo from one of the Armed Forces
|>  I recently read an article in Four Wheeler, i think, well anyway,  They said 
|> to put in fresh oil, drain and flush the coolant system and refill.  put it up
|> on blocks.  Store the tires somewere, i assume next to the car would be fine.
|> Ditch the battery,  if your leaving it for a long time, then just sell it, but
|> still take it out.  Wash the car,  underneath and everything, get all salt and 
|> dirt off.  Wax it and leave teh wax on to protect the paint and stick it in
|> a garage.  Obviously these aren't in order, but hopefully you can figure out
|> that you take the tires off after you bring it to the car wash.  Oh yeah, try
|> and get the gas tank as empty as possible since the gas turns to varnish, well
|> thats what i heard.   Just put the tires on, new oil,  some good gas, not 
|> the 3 parts water 1 part something flammable stuff.  A new battery.  A wash and
|> wax and it should be good as new.  And don't forget to take it off the blocks.
|> 
|> 
|> 

Why do you store the car on blocks?  What purpose does it serve?

Something else you may wish to do to a stored car (read/heard from somewhere, I
don't remember where) is to take out all the plugs and squirt some oil in each
cylinder.  crank the engine for a few secs to allow the oil to coat the cylinder
walls, and then replace the plugs.
-- 

Eric Alter		alter@rchland.vnet.ibm.com
IBM Corporation		Rochester, Mn
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jrp@bohra.cpg.oz.au (John Pitman)
Subject: balance shafts
Organization: Computer Power Software
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 00:03:23 GMT

Hi there
at the moment, most people using balance shafts use a MITSUBISHI patent and
pay royalties to them for it. They are only needed on 4 cyls, as they have
whats called a rocking couple with 2 pistons on the way up and 2 on the way
down tending to rock the motor back and forth. the balance shafts run at 
twice engine revs,a nd have bumps/lumps of iron on them so the counteract the
rocking couple of the piston masses. They are used by PORSCHE (3litre 4 cyl)
but Honda uses their own variant to avoid licence fees.
jp
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: TurboHydromatic 200 tranny problem
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 14:23:28 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 Every automatic will have a deposit of metallic sludge on the bottom of
the pan after a while. This is the accumulation of wear particles from the
clutch packs. It is normal although automatic transmission places will
certainly be pleased to fix your $40 problem for $300 using their trained
experts...

 Things which are not normal include chunks, shavings and fluid you can
smell or which is not a nice reddish pink. A large accumulation of sludge
in the pan indicates a large amount of clutch facing and friction plate
material which is no longer in its original location. The clutch packs
will eventually need replacing on any transmission. 

 From the temperature dependence of your symptoms it sounds more like a
hydraulic problem to me - like loss of pressure at the clutch actuators.
This could be due to wear, or to a badly obstructed filter. If a filter
and fluid change does not improve things then it's wear and you need
some new components most likely. One thing a decent transmission shop
should do is check the hydraulic pressure at various points under 
normal operating conditions. There are access taps for this and a good
shop manual will give the acceptable pressure ranges in each gear. If
you had the time, tools and inclination you could perform this check
yourself, but it might (or might not) be easier and cheaper to find
an honest transmission shop since it's not the sort of thing most people
do very often. 
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
From: hacker@cco.caltech.edu (Jonathan Bruce Hacker)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: incurable brake shimmy
Date: 29 Sep 1992 21:00:47 GMT
Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena
NNTP-Posting-Host: punisher.caltech.edu

hsd@swl.msd.ray.com (HERBERT DASILVA) writes:


>  Did you replace the pads?  Torque the lugs equally and in a cross
>  pattern?  

The pads were replaced,  Yes, I always torque the wheel lug nuts 
(75 ft-lbs) in a cross pattern (4 nuts).

>  Have you recently checked ball joints?
>  Steering end links?

I haven't checked these.  This is worth a try, although I'm not sure I
have the technology to do it.

>	Herb "Mopar Maniac" DaSilva  (OK, so I know it's a Toyota, OK? :-)

Thanks for the suggestions.

Jon Hacker
-- 
Jon Hacker
Caltech, Pasadena CA
hacker@tumbler-ridge.caltech.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bill@hood.tandem.com (norcott_bill@tandem.com)
Subject: Re: New inexpensive pre-oiler
Reply-To: norcott_bill@tandem.com  (Bill Norcott)
Organization: Tandem Computers, Inc.
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 23:57:12 GMT

In article <1992Oct3.132234.26545@ulysses.att.com>, esc@ulysses.att.com (E. Steve Crandall) writes:
|> 
|> Has anyone had experience with the "Safety-Start" pre-oiler from
|> Decision Makers?
|> 

I think you are much better off putting an engine block heater in the
car for about $15.  Instead of just pumping the cold oil around for
another 5 seconds, you have a warm start every time.

-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------|
Bill Norcott			GUARDIAN POSIX project
Tandem Computers, Inc.		
10600 N. Tantau Avenue		PHONE:  (408) 285-3253
Cupertino, CA   95014		EMAIL: norcott_bill@tandem.com


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,misc.forsale
From: fagundes@iastate.edu (Alex Fagundes)
Subject: GM HURST Shifter FOR SALE
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames IA
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 1992 04:36:18 GMT

Hi,
  A friend of mine is trying to sell a 4-speed hurst shifter for a GM 
(Camaro).  This also includes the kit and some other parts.
He is asking $120.
If you are interested, reply to this account or call (515)292-0130 and ask
for Dave Fincham.
thanks...

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
|  Alex Fagundes -         Proud owner of a 76 Maverick :) and another      | 
|  fagundes@iastate.edu  -          believer that AMIGA rules               | 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: atovorni@engr.UVic.CA (Andreas  Tovornik)
Subject: Re: DOHC on a V8 possible?
Reply-To: atovorni@engr.UVic.CA
Organization: University of Victoria, Victoria, BC, Canada
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 92 03:16:07 GMT

In article uupcb@chaos.lrk.ar.us, dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)  writes:
>
>-> Awwww, c'mon bob. Vettes haven't had live axles since '62. BMW's
>-> don't have them, T-bird SC's don't have them, Aston Martins,Jags,
>-> Z-cars, Ferraris,Lambos,Porsches,etc...don't have them. Only
>-> Mustangs, F-cars, Are there any others?
>
><cue in choir music>  Buick Grand National GNX.

Out of production along with all oter GM A-specials

>-> Most "higher performance"
>-> cars are unfortunately fitted with FWD.
>
> There is no such thing as a "high performance" car with front wheel
>drive, unless your definition is limited to limited-edition stripe
>packages and ugly wheels.

We never said anything about HIGH PERFORMANCE! Higher as I wrote it in
quotation marks referred to such rubbish as Golf GTI, Probe Turbo,
MX-6, Escort GT. These have higher performance that Toyota Tercel,
Cavalier 4-cyl, GEO Metro, etc. Higher is a relative term, and not an
absolute one,

I know there is no such thing as (FWD) HIGH PERFORMANCE!

Who do you think I am, Ralph Nader? :-\

Andy.

IGNORANCE disclaimer applies.
                                                                         




Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: tuomasp@mits.mdata.fi (Tuomas Paasiala)
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure Relief Valve ?
Organization: Microdata Oy, Helsinki, Finland
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 1992 08:50:36 GMT
Keywords: oil pressure


>        What does the oil pressure relief valve do?
>        Can it cause low oil pressure at idle?


It prevents too high oil pressure at high rpm. No, it won't cause
low pressure at idle.

--
-------------------------------------------------------------------
| Tuomas Paasiala        | Never believe what computer tells you. | 
| Tuomasp@mits.mdata.fi  |        Use RN to Read News.            |
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: atovorni@engr.UVic.CA (Andreas  Tovornik)
Subject: Re: Carb questions
Reply-To: atovorni@engr.UVic.CA
Organization: University of Victoria, Victoria, BC, Canada
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 92 22:00:11 GMT

In article lcgngbINNa24@utkcs2.cs.utk.edu, bhhardy@cs.utk.edu (Barbara Hardy) writes:

>-- Oh yeah, one other thing. THis sounds strange, but here goes.
>Around the same time, just after 100K, surprise surprise, there was
>this scary noise under my left front wheel. Ack! I think! But "they"
>said, naw, just the bearing there, which is sealed, and so cost me a
>boatload to have replaced (next car WILL be a VW!) ando so the noise
>kind of went away, but the other thing didn't. Which is: the car
>"feels" the most "right" when I am turning/curving left. As I finsh
>the turn and bring the car back to the right, the "wrong" begins. It
>is like the engine is straining against something. No grindng, more
>like a pressure, with accompanying "pressure noise." I keep wondering
>if the cause of this might be that when I replaced the timing belt, I
>had to lift the engine up from the frame of the car (no damn kidding!
>I hate CHrysler. Not to mention the Torx *Sockets*, not the male but
>the female which if you ever try to find ONE of GOOD LUCK or I'll sell
>them to you.... GRRR. ANYway, that's another story. I hate CHrylser)
>Sorry. ANyway, when I was replacing the bolt, which was a little
>rounded off, I rounded it off more and so couldn't get it quite to the
>100 ft.lbs. I was supposed to. So... youmore experienced types out
>there... does this noise sound familiar? I *hate* turning to the
>right. The car clearly hates it, too. It makes the car really loud and
>it just feels "tight." Something like that.
>
>-- ANyone who wants to take a crack at this... shoot away! And thanks
>for the help VERY much!

  Hey, Barb!

Bearings on V-dubs are not necessarily better...Get yourself a good car,
one with RWD, a V8 or six, and you'll spend more time behind the wheel than 
pushing it around or getting fuming mad underneath it. Make sure it isn't
from Japan or Europe and parts will cost less should something go wrong.

That noise, and engine lifting stuff are probably related, which is why I
specified RWD. It sounds to me like a CV joint....Ask Mr. Chilton how to
fix it and then you can say AGCKK.

Andy.

PLEASE EXCUSE MY OBVIOUS IGNORANCE.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Are cylinders in performance cars honed??
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 3 Oct 92 10:00:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> >>  So the question to all you netters is: "Are the cylinders in
-> performance >>cars honed????".  If not, why not?
...
-> >2) back in july, i visited one of the top competition motor
-> >building shops in the midwest, and talked with owner Gary Ostrich
-> >while he honed out the cylinder bores in a big block GM he was
-> >building for a drag racer.

 If it's a fresh bore job you'll normally go for a very smooth finish
when using moly rings.  If you're freshening a race motor, you do NOT
hone the cylinders while the pistons are out - at least according to GM,
Hastings, and TRW.
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1992 15:01:52 EDT
From: <FXZ102@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Volvo overheating problem

My 83 Volvo 760's temperature gets very high at times. The needle on the temper
ature gauge doesn't quite get to the red zone but it seems to be running a bit
warm. I was wondering if the thermostat has anything to do with this. Thanks.

FXZ102@psuvm.psu.edu