HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: pharris@ucscm.ucsc.edu (Peter Hsrris)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Restoring Old Photos
Date: 16 Dec 92 20:51:46 GMT
Organization: University of California, Santa Cruz
NNTP-Posting-Host: twilight-mac07.ucsc.edu
X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1.1d13
X-XXMessage-ID: <A754D80C2C040257@twilight-mac07.ucsc.edu>
X-XXDate: Wed, 16 Dec 92 21:56:44 GMT

Suggestions about photo retouching w. PhotoShop on a IIvx? Get yourself a
good book and prepare to be patient. Youll find yourself with nothing to
do for many minutes at a time if you are doing any work at photo-quality
resolutions. Its amazing. Its fantastic. It does what hardware costing
100s of times its price could do only ten short years ago. AND ITS SLOW.
Youre Mac works overtime with PhotoShop. How much RAM can you afford?
Buy it. Accelerated video card? Buy it. RAM disk? Use it. Have fun....

Peter Harris
University of California Santa Cruz



>Path:
darkstar.UCSC.EDU!agate!spool.mu.edu!yale.edu!jvnc.net!netnews.upenn.edu!n
>etnews.cc.lehigh.edu!ns1.cc.lehigh.edu!dbp0
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: geoff@pmafire.inel.gov (Geoff Allen)
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 92 18:42:36 GMT
Organization: Roller Coaster fanatic with no hope for a cure
Subject: Wedding Photographer vs. Dumb Photographers
Summary: 
Followup-To: 
Organization: Roller Coaster fanatic with no hope for a cure
Keywords: 

atomas@geloser.login.qc.ca (J-F Bissonnette) writes:
| Well it happends in National parks, but beleive me it happends
| in town too!  I've been doing some weddings this summer and 
| beleive me that you will find those kind of people there.  AS
| a good exemple, when I was preparing to make a very important
| shot (the rings), two of those weekend photgraphers got RIGHT
| in front of me... you can imagine my reaction.  The good thing
| was that my clients told me not to be gentle with those if they 
| realy are in the way... I let you guess the rest!  The rest of
| the wedding went quite good, even if some of the P&S owners 
| realy dislike me!  
| 
| This is a common problem and if some of you get married some day,
| be sure to tell every one around to stay away from the photographer
| you will avoid unplesant surprises and make the photographer's job
| a lot easyier... the results are gonna be just better and it's his
| job anyway!...

Our wedding photographer dealt with this problem by announcing before
all the photo shoot:

	I do not mind if you take pictures as well, but please do *not*
	take your picture until after you see my flash go off.

Worked quite well.  All the aunts and friends got their pictures, and
the photographer could go about his job unhindered.  Of course, it meant
that *we* had to hold every pose for an extra 2 or 3 seconds until all
the flashes went off. ;^)

Also, we did the photos before the ceremony, instead of after, and that
may have helped keep the crowds down to family and close friends.

Geoff ``Gosh, has it been 5-1/2 years already?'' Allen

-- 
Geoff Allen          \ The only difference between a Communist and a Socialist
uunet!pmafire!geoff   \  is that the Socialist will only confiscate the 
geoff@pauling.inel.gov \  resources that are profitable. -- Steve Arnold
From: bu890@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Brian Segal)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Questions on Studio Portrait Photography
Date: 14 Dec 1992 04:05:44 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


Of course, when I said "large f-stop" I was referring to the size of the
aperture, not the size of the number!!

brian
From: moreaux@litsun22.epfl.ch (Michel Moreaux)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Saunders 4x5 enlargers
Date: 14 Dec 92 17:32:30 GMT
Organization: Laboratoire d'informatique technique
In-reply-to: fr0c+@andrew.cmu.edu's message of 11 Dec 92 15:44:58 GMT


I just bought it one recently (last Saterday). I will try it next week-end.
After several months of investigation I was hesitating between the DeVere
($$$), the Durst 1200 ($$$) and the Jobo LPL 4575 (= Saunders LPL in the
states). Finally I bought the LPL because all people have told me that it is
the best compromise for a medium-priced large format enlarger.

Someone mentions his fear concerning the fan that is located in the head. I
will argue that the Durst have also a fan in its head and it is known as a
very good (but expensive) enlarger.

IMHO, the only problem with the LPL is the VCCE head that does not
allow to get the filters off the light for fine focusing. I have also
heard that the use of this head leads to long exposure time. For all
these reasons, I have bought the colour head.

By the way, Beseler is not imported in Switzerland, so I have not considered
their enlargers. I have heard that the large format enlarger (...25 ?) is not
sturdy enough. During a trip in Brussels, I noticed the OMEGA ..? which was
impressive but costed (in Europe) as much as the Durst enlarger. So, I ruled
it out.

_Michel Moreaux

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Michel Moreaux,                           | "Ceux qui ne savent rien en savent
Ecole Polytechnique Federale de Lausanne  |  toujours tout autant que ceux qui
Departement d'Informatique                |  n'en savent pas plus qu'eux"
Laboratoire d'Informatique Technique      |                  P. Dac.
EL-Ecublens                               |___________________________________
CH-1015 Lausanne                           
Phone # : (21) 693-46-72,   e-mail : moreaux@litsun.epfl.ch
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Michel Moreaux,                           | "Ceux qui ne savent rien en savent
Ecole Polytechnique Federale de Lausanne  |  toujours tout autant que ceux qui
Departement d'Informatique                |  n'en savent pas plus qu'eux"
Laboratoire d'Informatique Technique      |                  P. Dac.
EL-Ecublens                               |___________________________________
CH-1015 Lausanne                           
Phone # : (21) 693-46-72,   e-mail : moreaux@litsun.epfl.ch
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: mikec@spider.co.uk (Mike Coren)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Is EOS 28-105 USM much better than 35-105 USM lens?
Date: 15 Dec 92 15:56:20 GMT
Organization: Spider Systems Limited, Edinburgh, UK.

In article <1992Dec12.011901.9252@news.mentorg.com> arora@arora.mentorg.com (Arora Amitabh @ PCB x3080) writes:
>
>What is a parfocal lens ?

A parfocal zoom lens is one in which you can focus it for one focal length,
then change the focal length without having to refocus.  On manual focus
zoom this is a nice feature since you can zoom in to the full magnification
of the lens, focus, then zoom back out to frame your shot.

Mike

-- 
Michael D. Coren, Electrical Engineer             mikec@spider.co.uk
Telecommunications Techniques Corporation, Germantown, Maryland, USA.
Temporarily at Spider Systems Limited, Edinburgh, Scotland, UK.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: goldis@news.weeg.uiowa.edu (Al Goldis)
Subject: Re: Quick contact sheet proofer
Organization: University of Iowa, Iowa City, IA, USA
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 19:53:30 GMT

In <1992Dec12.020406.11822@unislc.uucp> erc@unislc.uucp (Ed Carp) writes:
>I was setting up a darkroom for a friend this afternoon.  We had developed a
[...]
>so I fell back on an old standby that I had used in high school.  We went
>down to the local HomeBase (K-Mart or a framing shop would've done just as
>well, or a glazier), picked up three-for-$4 8-1/2 x 11 frames (with glass
>in them), took them back to his house, stripped off the frames, and volia!
>Instant contact proof glass.  Sure, it's not nearly as fancy as those proofers

For less than $10, you can also go to the nearest paint and glass
store and get a piece of glass in either window or picture thickness
cut to whatever size you want.  The advantage is you can ask them to
swipe both edges so they're not sharp and you don't have to mess with
putting tape on them.
--
Al Goldis           alan-goldis@uiowa.edu
"Pictures are moments truth, touched by light, that show character."
                          --Annie Griffiths-Belt
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: lds@ccrl.nj.nec.com (Duan-Shin Lee)
Subject: Re: Outgrowing your gear 
Organization: C&C Research Labs, NEC USA, Princeton, N.J.
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 92 20:38:41 GMT

>>When I decided to upgrade to AF, Minolta had left me in the dust
>>by obsoleting all of my equipment.   I moved to the only manufacturer
>>who had maintained upgradability throughout their line of lenses,
>>flash, and cameras.   Nikon.
 
>Why? You didn't have any Nikon gear to be compatible with, so it
>couldn't have been an important factor in your decision. Surely a lot
>of other things about Nikon equipment must have been more important to
>you?

The manufacturer's commitment to maintain backward compatibility is
quite important here.  If he had mistakenly chosen Canon for example,
he may be left in the dust again ten years from now.  Who knows if
Canon won't change their mount again ten years from now, when some new
technology emerges!!
-- 
Duan-Shin Lee
C & C Research Lab, NEC USA
Tel:(609)951-2456
lds@ccrl.nj.nec.com
From: wtyler@adobe.com (William Tyler)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: EOS A2 flash => Great!
Date: 18 Dec 92 20:36:50 GMT
Organization: Adobe Systems Inc., Mountain View, CA

In article <1992Dec17.082538.26846@sequent.com> blue@sequent.com (Gil Delavous) writes:
>I owned a Nikon N8008/F801. Since everybody told that the couple N8008/SB24
>was great, I decided to buy this flash. I must say that I'm far to be a 
>flash guru, but I used it a lot in auto/TTL mode. I was *really* desapointed
>with the results I got. Most of the pictures I took using it where burned
>(portraits, groups, objects, etc...). It really surprised me because of the
>TTL exposure. It seems that the flash light was always cut too late. I thought 
>that maybe the matrix metering system was damaged, but I got great shots w/o 
>using the flash.

Since very many photographers (myself included) have had excellent
results from this camera/flash combination, I tend to believe that
either your equipment was malfunctioning, or you were inadvertently
doing something incorrect. (The SB-24 has a LOT of modes and
variations on modes.) For example, if you had set the flash to one of
the non-auto modes you could get extreme overexposures most of the
time. This would not be affected by the camera body at all.

Bill
-- 
Bill Tyler      wtyler@adobe.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jboden@bnr.ca (John Boden)
Subject: Re: I Hate Grainy Pictures
Keywords: grain
Organization: Bell-Northern Research
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 23:02:55 GMT

If you like 'good looking' grain in your shots, try using 
Konica 3200 (colour print film). I have used it when shooting
the interiors of old houses and found that the grain enhances
the look of the picture, while hiding many of the blemishes
apparent when I take a close-up with a finer grain film. Pastels and
light purples came up especially well.

Using an off the shelf film can save you hoops in the lab.

John
From: hchong@netcom.com (Hoi Chong)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Photo CD Resolution
Date: 20 Dec 92 20:13:40 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest)

From article <1992Dec18.201719.2028@guvax.acc.georgetown.edu>, by dtalmage@guvax.acc.georgetown.edu:
> Here's another resolution question.  Suppose I'm going to publish a 
> book and I do all of the layout on my PC.  If I use Photo CD for my 
> pictures instead of my original Kodachrome slides, will I notice any 
> difference in the image quality?

It depends on what kind of printing you use for your book.  I think
newspaper uses about 30 dot per inch.  Magazine uses 70 dpi, and books
uses even higher (the numbers may be wrong, but it gives you an ideal,
go talk to printer for exact numbers).  So it depends on how large you
enlarge the photo on the CD.
From: mikec@spider.co.uk (Mike Coren)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Budget macrophotography options
Date: 15 Dec 92 12:16:37 GMT
Organization: Spider Systems Limited, Edinburgh, UK.

In article <1992Dec13.201105.1@cc.curtin.edu.au> zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au writes:
>In article <TJWU.92Dec5043301@marinara.mit.edu>, tjwu@athena.mit.edu (Thomas J Wu) writes:
>...
>>             49mm        52mm        55mm        58mm        62mm
>> 
>> Canon                   240,450                 240,450,500T
>>                         (?,?)                   (?,?,?)
>
>No, only the 500T is available in 58mm. The number is the focal length in mm.
>
>~Paul

Canon used to make the 240 and 450 in 58mm, I know because I have them.  They
were given to me by my father, who's had them since his bachelor days!  I
wonder how long ago they discontinued them.

Mike

-- 
Michael D. Coren, Electrical Engineer             mikec@spider.co.uk
Telecommunications Techniques Corporation, Germantown, Maryland, USA.
Temporarily at Spider Systems Limited, Edinburgh, Scotland, UK.
From: sog@craycos.com (Steve Gombosi)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Hasselblad Film Flatness
Date: 19 Dec 92 16:20:20 GMT
Organization: Cray Computer Corporation

In article <1gp1rmINN608@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> bu890@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Brian Segal) writes:
>
>The "standard"Hasselblad is a 80mm f2.8, not a 90

In fact, Hasselblad doesn't even *make* a 90mm lens, and they never
have...

Having said that, the 100mm f/3.5 Planar is generally acknowledged to be
a better lens (especially at wide apertures) than the 80mm f/2.8. 

>The Softars are not lenses, they are filters.
>If you have never used one and insected the images with a loupe
>you can't really offer a serious opinion.

Yup.

>brian

Steve
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: mjg@nwu.edu (Michael J Graven)
Subject: Re: I Hate Grainy Pictures
Originator: mjg@casbah.acns.nwu.edu
Keywords: HELP
Reply-To: mjg@nwu.edu (Michael J Graven)
Organization: Northwestern University, Evanston, Illinois, USA
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1992 07:15:11 GMT

Michael Covington (mcovingt@aisun3.ai.uga.edu) writes:

> If underagitation reduces grain for you, then a shorter development time,
> with normal agitation, should do the same.

One would think so.  But my efforts didn't show that.  The contrast on the
normally-agitated film at recommended time was about a grade higher, which 
is a real consideration when you're trying to fit mixed-race basketball 
teams in a limited-contrast-range halftone.

> Michael A. Covington

-- 
-Michael                                        "The ball shall be spherical."
mjg@nwu.edu                        -- NCAA basketball regulations, rule 1.1.14
From: edmtl@alf.uib.no (Thor Legvold)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: XP2 setting
Date: 15 Dec 92 11:23:18 GMT
Organization: University of Bergen, Norway

In article <150034@hpsgl1.sgp.hp.com> koonj@hpsgl1.sgp.hp.com (Koon-Jan LIM) writes:
>
>Has anyone tried exposing XP2 at 100ASA?
>Ilford recommends to set at ASA400.
>Will the pictures turn out to be less
>grainy if I expose it at EI 100 instead
>of 400? Do I have to tell the 1 hour lab
>what my EI setting was? Thank you and
>email is appreciated?.
>
>
> 
I have experimented with it from 50 ASA up to 800 ASA.
In my opinion (humble at that) I feel that 160ASA gives
the best negatives.

Regards,
Thor
From: sog@craycos.com (Steve Gombosi)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: WD-40 Remover?
Date: 17 Dec 92 22:16:36 GMT
Organization: Cray Computer Corporation

In article <1992Dec16.151119.17167@bcrka451.bnr.ca> poole@bnr.ca (Thomas Poole) writes:
>I recently inherited a camera from my parents. It is
>a Agfa Jsolette made in Germany. I remember seeing 

>When I got the camera, I could
>not turn the lens to focus so I sprayed it with a
>little WD-40 ...
>Now the shutter
>doesn't work. The stuff doesn't seem to evaporate
>and is just gumming the works up more the longer its
>on the shutter. I've got the lenses off and tried
>to clean the shutter but the WD-40 is all over it 
>and keeps running back. I tried using a little
>isopropyl alcohol to dilute the WD-40 and hope
>that it would help the WD-40 evaporate but it didn't
>work that well. Can someone suggest something to 
>dissolve this stuff? 

What you want is a good organic solvent. The least noxious
alternative I can think of is acetone. It's pretty safe, but
quite flammable. It's also fairly volatile, so it'll evaporate
very quickly. Make sure the room where you do this is well ventilated
and keep away from flames or sparks. There are other solvents
that might work better, but they're pretty much all toxic. I wouldn't
recommend using them. 

The problem with this is that the acetone will remove all the 
lubricants from the mechanism - this means you'll have to relubricate
it. I believe watch oil should be used for this...sparingly, but I'm
not at all certain. BTW, are you sure you can get
the lens properly reassembled?

Steve
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: mcovingt@aisun3.ai.uga.edu (Michael Covington)
Subject: Re: I Hate Grainy Pictures
Keywords: HELP
Organization: AI Programs, University of Georgia, Athens
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1992 17:39:12 GMT

In article <1992Dec12.140910.5999@spock.UUCP> gumby@spock.uucp (Danny Richman) writes:
>	I have recently been assigned to take indoor sports BW pictures for my
>school newspaper.  It's definitely a change of pace from the outdoor pictures 
>of fall sports which I take with 400 ASA Tri-x.  I need to take pictures at a 
>1/1000 sec. shutter speed so that the sports pictures are frozen, not blurred.
>I decided that it was necessary to use 3200 ASA T-Max due to the low light 
>conditions, but I am at my last stop and can't afford to push the film at all.
>When I enlarge the pictures I get a lot of grain.  Well, sure I expected it, 
>but isn't there anything I can do????  Is there any fine grain Black and White
>films out there????  Can't anyone help me????

I'm afraid you're at the limits of technology.  Some suggestions:

(1) If high contrast is acceptable, go back to Tri-X or T-Max 400, and
push-process it in T-Max developer or Acufine.

(2) Rethink whether you really need 1/1000 second.  Shoot at peaks or
pauses in the action, at maybe 1/100.  

(3) Use a powerful electronic flash.
-- 
:-  Michael A. Covington     internet mcovingt@uga.cc.uga.edu :   Verbum caro
:-  Artificial Intelligence Programs       phone 706 542-0358 :    factum est
:-  The University of Georgia                fax 706 542-0349 :  et habitavit
:-  Athens, Georgia 30602-7415 U.S.A.     amateur radio N4TMI :   in nobis...
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: ewright@convex.com (Edward V. Wright)
Subject: Re: Photo CD
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 16:57:22 GMT
Organization: Engineering, CONVEX Computer Corp., Richardson, Tx., USA
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by a user at CONVEX Computer
              Corp. The opinions expressed are those of the user and
              not necessarily those of CONVEX.

In <PLOTKIN.92Dec17094924@Troll.stanford.edu> plotkin@cs.stanford.edu (Serge A. Plotkin) writes:

>The big question is how can one PRINT the result ? clearly, regular
>color printers are no good. Dye transfer printers are probably o.k., but
>can not produce larger than 11x11in (is this really so? ) prints.

Kodak has recently announced a drive that can write, as well as read,
CD-ROMs.  The ultimate answer is for you to be able to record the
altered images back to CD, then take the disk down to your local
photofinisher and have prints made from it.  You won't be able to
do that for a while, though.
From: dtalmage@guvax.acc.georgetown.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Query: Books on physics of photography (followup)
Date: 17 Dec 92 09:04:37 -0500
Distribution: world
Organization: Georgetown University

In article <1992Dec16.111403.2011@guvax.acc.georgetown.edu>, dtalmage@guvax.acc.georgetown.edu writes:
> Who can recommend some books on the physics of photography?  They're 
> for my wife, a chemist w/strong math background.  She's interested in 
> the way lenses work and why exposures work the way they do (e.g. f/8 @ 
> 1/100 sec == f/16 @ 1/50 sec).

Thanks to all who replied.  Here's a summary of the recommendations.

dxa8439@ultb.isc.rit.edu (D.X. Axelrad) Dan Axelrad suggested a book 
he used at RIT: _Materials and Processes_, Strobel, Compton, Zakia 
and someone else.....  He said it's "an excellent all round technical book 
on photography...  It goes into considerable depth with  all technical aspects 
of photography"

bercov@csg.lbl.gov (John Bercovitz) and mcovingt@aisun3.ai.uga.edu 
(Michael Covington) recommended the books by Rudolph Kingslake, particularly

_Optics in Photography_
Rudolf Kingslake
ISBN 0-8194-0763-1
SPIE order desk: Tel no. 206-676-3290


For film and development, Michael suggested Mees and James, _The Theory of 
the Photographic Process_.

Both Shamim Zvonko Mohamed <sham@cs.arizona.edu> and Ed Carp <erc@apple.com>
suggested the series by Ansel Adams: _The Camera_, _The Negative_,
_The Print_, the the fourth one on artificial light.
From: dtalmage@guvax.acc.georgetown.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Query: Books on physics of photography
Date: 19 Dec 92 21:49:59 -0500
Distribution: world
Organization: Georgetown University

In article <1992Dec18.223201.1481@atlastele.com>, briang@atlastele.com (Brian Godfrey) writes:
> In article <1992Dec17.004821.26135@unislc.uucp> erc@unislc.uucp (Ed Carp) writes:
>>: for my wife, a chemist w/strong math background.  She's interested in 
>>: the way lenses work and why exposures work the way they do (e.g. f/8 @ 
>>: 1/100 sec == f/16 @ 1/50 sec).
> 
>    I, too, would be interested in knowing how f/8 @ 1/100 == f16 @ 1/50.
> 
>    (Sorry, couldn't resist. :-)

<blush>  My brain must have been off-line the day I posted that.  *I 
know better*.  Thanks to those who have pointed out my mistake.

David Talmage
From: bjs@RUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Barry Sherman)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Dumb Photographers
Date: 14 Dec 92 19:31:47 GMT
Reply-To: bjs@RUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Barry Sherman)
Followup-To: rec.photo
Distribution: na
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

robert.m.atkins writes:

>I agree completely. A LOT of people in this country (USA) don't believe
>rules apply to them. What really pisses me off is the average standard of
>behavior of photographers (and others) in National parks and similar places.
>Despite numerous signs NOT to feed animals and NOT to approach wildlife I
>have seen appalling behaviour, from whistling and shouting at animals, throwing
>food, waving shirts etc. just to make them look at the "photographer" (I use
>the term here to mean anyone with a camera). I've seen people go up to large
>mammals (elk, bison) and jump up and down to get their attention, while their
>parner comes in with a P&S camera to get the picture (from maybe 10ft). 
>Sometimes (but not often enough) the animal gets annoyed and goes after the
>idiots. Take their film away? - I say feed them to the bears.

Yup.  If you'll forgive the tired old cliche - just evolution in action.

Barry


--


|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Barry Sherman, Amdahl Corp. | "It's much easier to go to exotic places and | 
| bjs@uts.ccc.amdahl.com      |  capture spectacular scenes than to take a   |
|                             |  spectacular picture of a really boring      |
|                             |  green pepper". - Anthony Tse                |
|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Amdahl, being a corporation, is a legal fiction.  Therefore it is incapable|
| of holding, let alone expressing, opinions.  Unfortunately, this has been  |
| said of me as well. (I.e.  My statments are mine, not Amdahl's.)           |
|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
Newsgroups: rec.photo