HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: steve@acorn.co.uk (Steve "daffy" Hunt)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Adjusting cantilever brakes
Date: 19 Nov 92 16:32:08 GMT
Organization: Acorn Computers Limited, Cambridge, UK
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]

Any braking experts on here?

What is the secret of adjusting cantilever brakes for maximum braking
performance?  I have played with my Shimano brakes for some time, and
haven't had very satisfactory results.  Nor has the bike shop I tried.

How important is it to have the special alignment jig mentioned in the
Shimano instruction leaflet?  (Needless to say I haven't; surprisingly
nor did the bike shop).  How critical is it to get the right toe-in on
the blocks?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

-- Steve
-- 
				Steve Hunt	steve@acorn.co.uk
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: bruce@uxc.cso.uiuc.edu (Bruce Krueger)
Subject: Re: Hub Generator Sources?
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1992 00:29:10 GMT

SteveSgt@cup.portal.com (Steven Eugene Sergeant) writes:
>For over fifteen years I have heard rumors of integrated hub-generators
>for bicycles.  I have never seen such a thing but I would really be
>enthusiastic about applying such a thing to a HBL system for and HPV
>design I'm working on.
>Does anyone know of a current source for such a thing.  Are they presently
being manufactured anywhere in the world?
   *******
   the hubs you've heard about are probably sturmey-archer, and there are
   still a number of them rolling around this country laced into the front
   wheels of old humber, raleigh, or similar three speeds.  tha last time
   I checked, temple international in chicago (wholesale only to dealers)
   had them on its price sheet/catalog, and also had repair parts for same.
   they're not cheap, and I'm not sur I've ever seen one work for a signi-
   ficant length of time (not sure about durability, or output, or amount
   of drag/resistance caused either with the lights switched on or not), but
   it always seemed to be an interesting idea.  I'm partial to the sanyo
   dynapower gemerator sets myself, since they're extremely efficient (low
   drag), retrofittable on just about anything on the road with two wheels
   (though old schwinns with fenders and welded-on kickstand require a fair
   amount of ethnic engineering), and they come with a lightweight, relatively
   bright headlight unit (that even includes a spare krypton bulb) and tail
   light, and a wiring set with spade connectors and shrink-fit tubing at
   the connectors (!).  nicely done unit, and relatively reasonably priced
   if you can find them (we sell 'em for $25, though I suspect that's somewhat
   below the mean).

   if you want more info on dynohubs (as sturmey calls them), get back to me
   or post something here, and I'll see what I can find out -- price, avail-
   ability, &c.   for what it's worth, I believe that sachs makes something
   along these lines, although I don't know if they're importing any of them
   into this country.

   bruce


Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: shenry@cs.rice.edu (Sam Henry)
Subject: Re: Colnago double down tube bike.
Organization: Rice University, Houston
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 20:42:32 GMT

In article <BxtF2w.1qE@news.cso.uiuc.edu> tlt38517@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu
(Terry Thiel) is jesting, rihgt?: 
>My brother just bought a new Colnago ... He got it for $1200 with
>Dura-Ace STI and the new SPD clipless pedals (Dura-Ace).  Anybody
>know anything about this bike? 

The Colnago is poetry in motion.
I drool for a Colnago Master.  I might settle for a Bruce Gordon Road.

In short, he got a deal.


-- 
sam henry <shenry@rice.edu>
Wanna ride?
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tlt38517@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Terry Thiel)
Subject: Re: Colnago double down tube bike.
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 16:15:28 GMT

jbrandt@hplred.HPL.HP.COM (Jobst Brandt) writes:

>Terry Thiel writes:
>> My brother just bought a new Colnago from a bike shop in Chicago.
>> It's one of those with the double down tube.  He got it for $1200
>> with Dura-Ace STI and the new SPD clipless pedals (Dura-Ace).
>This may be a good price for a good Italian frame but I'm not
>convinced that Colnago has always built good frames.  In particular
>the dual tube and crimped tube bikes (whose tubes are more or less
>square) come to mind.  The double tubes, whether seat tubes or
>downtubes have distinct disadvantages over the conventional layout in
>that both bending and torsional rigidity are substantially reduced for
>the same amount of metal in the tubes.
>impact to the front because these tubes are weaker than single round
>tubes in bending.

Yeah I'm not convinced it's that great a design myself.  But for $1200
with Dura-Ace STI and the new Dura-Ace spud pedals it's a pretty good
deal.  I talked to my brother last night and was surprised to hear him
say that he thought the Colnago was stiffer than his Cannondale!  Of
course he's running 20mm Conti's which I promptly told him to change to
23's or even 25's (I use 28's).
-Terry
From: mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Mackintosh)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: How to secure pump to frame?
Date: 23 Nov 92 12:36:35 GMT
Reply-To: mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Mackintosh)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.bicycles.tech, dmoore@hardy.u.washington.edu (David Moore) writes:

>I'm afraid I just don't follow all of this stuff about pump pegs and straps,
>though there have been some rather clever ideas mentioned.  I haven't used
>a pump peg, or any other attachment, for years.  There is such a thing as
>a Silca frame-fit pump isn't there?  Mine has never rattled or fallen off

I use the Silca pumps, too, but a peg is still necessary if you want
to mount it under the top tube so that you can use two water bottle
cages.  The Silcas work well but I have found them to crack relatively
easily where the cap (pump-handle end) screws into the body.  The pump
is still usable after this occurancy, however.

David Mackintosh
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: nim@netcom.com (Neal Margolis)
Subject: Re: spoke prep
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 03:35:45 GMT

've built only about a half dozen wheels, but it
seems to me you're overlooking ther lubricating
ability of prep. For my last two wheels, I
built one with and one without and I was amazed
that the one built with prep made not a single "squeak"
when I stressed it. 

Anyway, I loved the stuff. 

Neal Margolis
:
From: jbrandt@hplred.HPL.HP.COM (Jobst Brandt)
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 19:47:56 GMT
Subject: Re: Compatability questions
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories, Palo Alto, CA
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech

Don McGregor writes:

> Closer inspection shows that the old BB is labeled "36 X 24T
> BB-7400".  it's a Shimano Dura Ace.  What is this, French?

What you have is an Italian BB that is right hand threaded on both
sides with a 36mm diameter 24 threads per inch thread.  Also known
as 36 x 24 tpi.  This is the most common thread.  The next most
common is the English 1.370 x 24 tpi that uses a left hand thread
on the right side.

jobst_brandt@hplabs.hp.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Cannondale Delta V question
From: doachs@next-1.gac.edu (Dan A Oachs)
Date: 19 Nov 92 16:03:01 -0600
Distribution: usa

Theodore Chen wrote:
> i've got a 'dale with the force 40 braking system described.
> one of these days, i'm going to switch it back to the regular
> system.  the problem is that the force 40 system, combined
> with the deore 2-finger brakes, requires a lot of cable travel.
> i find that the deore levers don't pull enough cable.  so i end
> up with brakes that ride uncomfortably close to the rim (meaning
> that if the wheel goes slightly out of true the brakes will rub)
> and levers that go awfully close to the bottom under hard braking.
> the advantage is that the brakes are powerful. > -teddy

	I own a Cannondale 1992 m1000 and it also has force 40  
brakes.  I have not had any probles with the brakes being too close  
to the rims.  I have plenty of room to pull the levers back in order  
to stop quickly.  When I first got the bike I did not notice how good  
the brakes really were.  After riding for a while me and a friend  
decided to try switching bikes to compare them.  His bike is a  
Cannondal m500 without force 40.  When I tried to use his brakes I  
found that I had to pull a lot harder than I would have with my bike.   
The force 40 really makes a difference.  I have also noticed that I  
have a lot more controll over the brakes.  I can lock them up quickly  
if needed or I can pull with many different forces to stop  
effectively or just slow down a little.  This is especially handy  
when riding on ice or other slippery surfaces.  I would suggest that  
every one should at least try these brakes.  I love them and would  
never trade them for any thing.
--
                                        /\
                                    /\/\/\/\/\        
|                =  o            /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\            
|Dan Oachs      =  < -        doachs@next-1.gac.edu                    
|             = ( ) ( )     /\St.Peter Minnesota\/\/\                
						          
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: polly@leland.Stanford.EDU (polly siegel)
Subject: Re: CHANGING TO STI??????
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 92 03:00:07 GMT

>>>I am planning on converting my bike to the shimano 600sti shifting.
>>>Could someone please tell me what is needed to make the changover.  I
>>>currently have the following setup.
>>>
>>>    7 speed 105 cassette.
>>>    105 rear der. and frnt der.
>
>>To run 600 STI with your 105 derailleurs, you need the 600 STI shifters, and
>>you need an 8-speed rear cassette hub and cassette.  The hub can be either
>>600 or 105.  Your 105 derailleurs are fine to run the new stuff.

You do not need an 8-speed rear cassette hub and cassette.
You can run a 7-speed cassette with the 8-speed shifters just fine.
You might want to buy some new 
8-speed width spacers for the cassette, and you should probably get the
rear wheel redished, but the 8-speed shifters will work fine -- there will
just one click-stop that's not used.
(I currently have Ultegra 8-speed shifters and rear derailleurs with 7-speed
DuraAce hubs with 8-speed spacing and it works really well.)

As to whether you can mix and match 105 and 600 components, that I
don't know.  Try it and see how well it shifts.  You may also need to
get an 8-speed rear derailleur to match the shifters.  However, you
shouldn't need to invest anything more in your wheels (except for the
redishing and the new spacers, which are cheap). Probably what you'll
find is that a mismatch of components will work, but it won't work as
well as if you had the entire group.

- polly

-----------
Polly Siegel
Stanford University
(polly@grover.stanford.edu)
From: joe@ima.isc.com (Joe Chapman)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: How to secure pump to frame?
Date: 18 Nov 92 15:58:53 GMT
Article-I.D.: ima.1992Nov18.155853.29774
Reply-To: joe@ima.isc.com (Joe Chapman)
Organization: Interactive Systems, Cambridge, MA 02138-5302

Ira Idelson writes:
>I got a little gadget at my local bike store for ~$1.
>It is sort of like a pump peg mounted onto a hose clamp type mechanism.

About twenty years ago this was the usual way of mounting a pump.  You
could also get one with a round metal cap instead of a pump peg--this
was widely considered to be the more classy choice (unless it obscured
the Reynolds 531 sticker, which took precedence).

A much more noble gadget than some semi-functional Velcro monstrosity.

--
Joe Chapman		joe@ima.isc.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tlt38517@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Terry Thiel)
Subject: Re: Cannondale MTB's (was Cannondale Crit)
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 16:23:36 GMT

cs92mjd@cen.ex.ac.uk (M.J.Davis) writes:
>   >The mounatin bike break constanly though.  I know personally of several
>   >people who have had three and four frames due to breakage.                  
>Whoooaa! Danger! I feel I _have_ to qualify this statement (before 'Dales legal
>department comes down on Terry like a ton of Hyperglide sprockets :-). I too
>have seen and heard about Dale frame failures (I knew one guy who took out
>three in a matter of weeks). But they were _all_ 1991 (3.0 series) 18" frames.
>The problem was the combination of 2" down tube, 1" steerer, and short head 
>tube. The surface area of the weld was just too small. The 20" frames never
>had a problem (that I know of), and nor did either pre-2" tube frames or 
>'92 and on frames with Evo headsets. I've never seen a 'Dale break anywhere
>but at the head tube welds, and only that particular year/size. I've seen
>lots of intact 'Dales ridden by 180lb psychos...

Only one of the frames I'm talking about broke at the head tube.  Several
had broken chain stays and two had broken seatpost clamps.  Another
cracked at the bottom of the bottom bracket where it meets the down tube.
-Terry
From: cs92mjd@cen.ex.ac.uk (M.J.Davis)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Symmetric rear hub
Date: 15 Nov 92 14:35:19 GMT
	<2rcqn2m@lynx.unm.edu> <1dupedINNp0b@overload.lbl.gov>
	<truesdel-131192135743@aux-1.ics.uci.edu>
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech
Organization: Computer Unit. - University of Exeter. UK

R. Scott Truesdell writes:

   >The hand built Manitou mountain bikes have assymetrical rear triangles to
   >accomodate dishless rear wheels. The dropouts are offet to the right
   >otherwise the rear wheel wouldn't be in line with the frame and front
   >wheel.

At last! When this thread started I pointed out that you would have to offset
the rear triangle (and indeed quoted the Manitou as an example) but no-one  
seemed to be listening :-(.

   >The special wide hubs are built by Manitou. I think the axle spacing is
   >150mm or so. Doug also makes a custom front hub as well (around 120mm?).
   >All in the interest of lateral strength. The wider hub flange spacing is
   >effective at increasing the lateral spoke angle for all spoking patterns,
   >unlike increased flange diameter which approaches zero increase in lateral
   >spoke angle as the spoke pattern approaches tangental.

Actually 145 in the rear, 115 in front. Doug Bradbury weighs something like
210lb, and rides a 28 hole front/32 rear wheel setup. Apparently he has never
suffered a wheel failure.

  
Mikey D

--




"Ride and find where all the freedom has gone..."

Michael J. Davis          |   cs92mjd@ac.uk.ex.cen
Dept of Computer Science  |   cs92mjd@cen.ex.uk.ac
University of Exeter      |
UK                        |   #include<disclaimer.std>




   








-- 
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: grande@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (brad.l.grande)
Subject: Re: How to secure pump to frame?
Organization: AT&T
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 13:51:10 GMT
Summary: My solution ... it works and is cheap

In article <Bxw0GK.G2z@news.cso.uiuc.edu>, tlt38517@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Terry Thiel) writes:
> My borthers new Colango (The $1200 one with Dura-Ace STI) has no pump peg.
> How do people secure pumps to their road bikes so they don't rattle?  I assumed
> people use those velcro thingies but wanted other ides since it seems like
> they would rattle.
> -Terry
> 

My old 1981 Miyata 210 (the $230 one with Suntour Alpe-D'-very-very-olde)
doesn't have a pump peg either.  It always amazes me how similar bikes are
equiped the same way!

To improvise a pump peg, I use a cable tie around the head tube.  (for some of
us, a cable tie is one of those nylon ties that has the one way, one time use,
coupler that you find used anywhere you want to hold something together).  I
pulled it very tight and cut off the excess strap.  The coupler functions as
the peg.  It works very well and can function double duty as a bike computer
sensor wire tie and a pump peg.

I am not sure if Colango markets their own cable ties, but maybe campy has one
for under $20... :-)


Brad Grande	WB0OYX
Another bike riding beer brewing kite flying amateur radio operator who
	still likes CD's!

AT&T Bell Labs
Naperville Illinausea
PLEASE SEND RESPONSES TO:	grande@iwtil.att.com
att!iwtil!grande
(708)-979-7853


Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tthiel@cs.uiuc.edu (Terry Thiel)
Subject: Re: CHANGING TO STI??????
Organization: University of Illinois, Dept. of Comp. Sci., Urbana, IL
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 20:13:31 GMT

dhm1@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (DANIEL HILL MCCAULEY) writes:
>I am planning on converting my bike to the shimano 600sti shifting.
>Could someone please tell me what is needed to make the changover.  I
>currently have the following setup.
>    7 speed 105 cassette.
>    105 rear der. and frnt der.
>        Thanks.  All help is appreciated!

Firstly I would use Shimano 105 STI shiofters instead of Ultegra.  The
Ultegra's are speed and probably wouldn't work well on 7-speed 105 plus
they would cost more.  I haven't seen 105 STI for sale in any of the catalogs
yet though.  It may not be available by individual components yet.
-Terry
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: byer@adobe.com (Scott Byer)
Subject: Re: better cantelever braking
Reply-To: byer@adobe.com (Scott Byer)
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 02:33:58 GMT

Scot Thorstad writes

> I'm a little confused, I have standard DX brakes and find all this
> talk about "braking power" strange.  I've never had a problem with
> locking up either tire (I haven't tried to lock the front on
> pavement) but even hanging off the back it's easy to lock the rear.
> Are there other people like me who need better traction to use the
> brakes they have or do everyones tires stick like glue. If everybody
> sticks then what kind of tires do you use, I need some.  scot

The "Uncle Fester" is a tandem.  Needs a little more stopping power.

Matt, have you tried softer, gummier brake pads?

--
Scott Byer                             NeXTMail: byer@mv.us.adobe.com
Adobe Systems Incorporated               These are *my* opinions, and  
1585 Charleston Road, P.O. Box 7900        do not necessarily reflect
Mountain View, CA 94039-7900             the opinions of my employer.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: neilf@delfin.com (Neil Frank)
Subject: Re: How to secure pump to frame?
Organization: Delfin Systems
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 16:37:57 GMT

brad.l.grande (grande@cbnewsd.cb.att.com) wrote:
: In article <Bxw0GK.G2z@news.cso.uiuc.edu>, tlt38517@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Terry Thiel) writes:
: > My borthers new Colango (The $1200 one with Dura-Ace STI) has no pump peg.
: > How do people secure pumps to their road bikes so they don't rattle?  I assumed
: > people use those velcro thingies but wanted other ides since it seems like
: > they would rattle.
: > -Terry
: > 
: 
: To improvise a pump peg, I use a cable tie around the head tube.  (for some of
: us, a cable tie is one of those nylon ties that has the one way, one time use,
: coupler that you find used anywhere you want to hold something together).  I
: pulled it very tight and cut off the excess strap.  The coupler functions as
: the peg.  It works very well and can function double duty as a bike computer
: sensor wire tie and a pump peg.
: 
: I am not sure if Colango markets their own cable ties, but maybe campy has one
: for under $20... :-)
: 
: 
: Brad Grande	WB0OYX

Before I went to using CO2 containers, I used to carry my pump along the
seat stay(correct spelling??) opposite the freewheel or free hub.  I never
had problems with this method but I assume it is possible that if you own
a tight frame that the pump may come in contact with the rear wheel.  Seeing
that I own a frame which has tight angles (51cm c-c, 73.5 to 74 degrees) and 
never had problem with this method you might be hardpressed to find a frame 
which would have this problem.....

-nlf-
would 
-- 
Neil Frank		Delfin Systems		408-748-1200
neilf@delfin.com	Santa Clara, CA.
--              Wisdom is Gained Through Experience,            -- 
--        Experience is Gained Through Error.... "Unknown"      --
From: drm@esl.com (Don McGregor)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Compatability questions
Date: 19 Nov 92 17:28:54 GMT
Reply-To: drm@esl.com


Rats.

I had always assumed that my BB was English threaded; after ordering a new  
BB it seems that I was living an illusion.

Closer inspection shows that the old BB is labeled "36 X 24T BB-7400".   
It's a Shimano Dura Ace.  What is this, French?

I'm trying to replace it with a Suntour BB so I can use a Suntour Superbe  
Pro crank.  Apparently the spindle taper on the Suntours is a little  
different, so you need the Suntour BB.  Rather than send off to mail order  
again to get the right thread, I was considering using the old fixed and  
adjustable cups, and dropping in the new bearings and spindle.  The old  
cups look just fine.  The bearings are unmarked.  Is there a difference  
between the bearings used in the brand X threaded BBs and English threaded  
BBs?  Anything that would make this a bad idea?

Next question: is the Sachs "Aris" freewheel with a Sedis chain compatible  
with a Dura Ace rear derailleur?  Or do I need to track down a DA  
freewheel, which are starting to get a little rare in the world of  
freehubs?

--
Don McGregor | Life is like high school, only with money and guns.
drm@esl.com  |
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tan@lynx.msc.cornell.edu.UUCP (David Tan,Box 219 Baker Lab,54810,2720402)
Subject: Re: Colnago double down tube bike.
Originator: tan@msc2.msc.cornell.edu
Organization: Cornell-Materials-Science-Center
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 22:21:27 GMT

From article <BxtF2w.1qE@news.cso.uiuc.edu>, by tlt38517@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Terry Thiel):
> My brother just bought a new Colnago from a bike shop in Chicago.  It's one
> of those with the double down tube.  He got it for $1200 with Dura-Ace STI
> and the new SPD clipless pedals (Dura-Ace).  Anybody know anything about this
> bike?  Apparently the shop is desperate for cash, they've marked all their
> bikes way down.
> -Terry
> 
Not much except that $1200 seems like a really good price.  I sort of
remember seeing the frames on sale for $999.

Colnago Carbitubo w/DA is what Ariostea rides, for what that's worth.

Dave

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: A10377@waccvm.corp.mot.com (Michael Duke)
Subject: Cannondale MTB's (was Cannondale Crit)
Organization: Motorola
Date: 16 Nov 1992 15:22:31 MST

Does anyone share the same enthusiasm for Cannondale's mountain
bikes that some have recently expressed for their road bikes here
in .tech? What about the suspended models? Do they really provide
a suspended ride?
From: fike@chezp.enet.dec.com (Mike Fike, Augusta, Maine)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Cannondale Delta V question
Date: 17 Nov 92 12:14:55 GMT
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation


In article <1992Nov16.221828.13566@eagle.lerc.nasa.gov>, vvkmj@sven.lerc.nasa.gov (Keith Jackson) writes...
>A friend of mine won a fully suspended 1992 Cannondale Delta V frame as
>a door prize at a mountain bike race.  He wanted cash more than a
>mountain bike so he sold it to me at a great price.  I took it to my
>team bike shop (not a cannondale dealer) for them to order the parts to
>build it up.  The guys at the shop don't know what to do with the
>little pulley wheel just above where the brakes will go.
> 
>...more deleted....

	I'm no Cannondale mechanic and I don't play one on TV, but it seems to
me from magazines I've read, that the little wheel you refer to is part of
Cannondale's "force 40"? braking system. There is no straddle cable in it. 
instead- the main brake cable clamps on to a sort-of straddle cable on the
right side of the pulley , then the sort-of straddle cable goes over the
pulley to the left cantilever. Don't ask me how they balance it!

				Mike