HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: kevinf@ecs.comm.mot.com (Kevin Fluharty)
Subject: counterflow chiller parts
Organization: secure_comm
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 18:19:13 GMT

I have begun to gather some of the materials to begin construction of 
a counterflow wort chiller.  I have some 5/8 inch I.D. garden hose rated for
hot water use ( I HOPE the cooling water will be HOT at the outlet :-) and a 
25 ft section of 3/8 inch O.D. copper tubing.  I was planning to look for a
suitable T connector, probably a flushing T... the one on my last car 
gave me the idea.  I didn't really see anything suitable at the plumbing
section of Builder's Square...  I suppose a Y adaptor for garden hoses 
would also work. The hose is fastened to the T with hose clamps at point
"HC".  To keep the water from leaking out around the outside of the copper
tubing, I could seal the gap between the T  adaptor and the copper tubing
with RTV. ONe end of the chiller is as follows: 


                  HC               
========================                       __
            /^^|______________________________|  \
           |                         RTV  RTV     | pt A           pt B
------------------------------------------------------------------|
------------------------------------------------------------------|
           |   ___________        ___RTV__RTV_    |     copper
            \__|          |       |           |__/      tubing
=======================   |       |    
                    HC    |       |
                         ===========
                         ===========
                         ===========
                         ===========

                                  Flushing T with cap removed    

My question for all you conterflow chiller'ers out there:

How do you protect the relatively fragile (exposed) copper tubing between
pts A and B?  Some of the packages of bendable copper tubing contained
just that... BENT copper tubing.  It would be a real pain to be in the 
middle of a boil when Mr. Murphy pays a visit .:-( So, how do you protect the 
exposed tubing?   I saw some "flare union connectors", so I could use 
something like that to replace the small section if it occurred BETWEEN
pts A and B, but not if the pipe got bent AT pt A.  

Is there some sort of durable connector for the outlet, which I could
securely anchor to the T?  What's it called?  The Builder's Square
"can I help you?" guy just gave me a blank look, probably since these
things are rarely attached to toilets...at least not here in Chicago,
where water is not in THAT short supply :-)  :-).

Thanks for any tips and suggestions!   

-Kev
From: ulick@angelico.helios.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: How much mash water?
Date: 14 Aug 92 18:39:36 GMT
Organization: University of Notre Dame, Notre Dame

In his book Miller recommends 1.33qt (32 fl oz) of water per ib of grist.
Papazian recommends 1 qt (although does he also step up with 200 F water?).
How much is needed?  I'd imagine that heating on the stove would require
sufficient water to prevent a hot spot, but I'm sure a mash can be done with
much less than 1.33?  Waht is the minimum anyone has used?  I'd like to 
really minimize this to make strong beers without adding extract, or much  
more water, and will probably try soon with about .75-1.


+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 
+ 'There was a  master come unto the earth, + Ulick Stafford, PP-ASEL       +
+    born in the holy land of Indiana,      + Dept of Chemical Engineering, +
+ in the mystical hills east of Fort Wayne'.+ Notre Dame, IN 46556          +
+      B'fhearr liom bheith ag eitilt.      +    ulick@bach.helios.nd.edu   +
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From: cush@uh.msc.edu (R. Cushing Hamlen)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: yeast culturing
Date: 14 Aug 92 14:13:20 GMT
Reply-To: cush@msc.edu
Distribution: rec
Organization: Minnesota Supercomputer Center

In article <1992Aug14.224.4787@dosgate>, "glenn anderson" <glenn.anderson@canrem.com> writes:
....
....Has anyone tried "The Yeast Culture Kit Company" products? They seem
....to offer quite a few strains of both lager and ale yeast and I was
....wondering how they compared to Wyeast products. 
....
....It would seem to me that streaking a decent selection of Wyeast would
....give similar results, are these guys doing something different? 
....
....By the way, is there a "copyright" on yeast strains? Sounds silly but
....what prevents me from recultivating my favorite Wyeast and selling
....gobs of it to everyone I know up here in Canada, at half the price??
....The problem seem to me to be isolating strains with desirable qualities,
....propogating more cultures from these strains would be the easy part.
....
....I hope the Wyeast thugs don't come break my legs now that I've mentioned 
....this.

Issues that come immediately to mind are contamination and mutations.  To do
a job of consistently getting out uncontaminated yeast of the SAME strain  requires
a full laboratory with at least one trained person.  I bet Wyeast's response would
be: if you can afford it, go do it!  (well, more or less...)  

Bottom line is: it is not really that easy.

Myself, I figure I can streak Wyeast (which I did last night) and get perhaps
four to six batches from the streak.  This reduces the cost of the yeast to perhaps
a dollar a brew,  and I do not have to worry about mutations, contamination, etc.
remember: we NEED places like Wyeast to maintain strains...if we do not keep them
in business, we loose in the end.

usual disclaimers

cush@msc.edu
Xref: sparky rec.crafts.brewing:4604 alt.beer:4826
From: machman@milton.u.washington.edu (The Machman)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing,alt.beer
Subject: Re: New BrewPub list
Keywords: compilation, BrewPubs
Date: 14 Aug 92 18:41:13 GMT
Organization: University of Washington

parsons@osiris.cso.uiuc.edu (Mark Parsons) writes:

>	You might consider how you are going to handle contract brewing.
>There are some pubs around here that don't brew their own beer, but have a
>local micro brew a special draft just for that pub.  Is this common?

there's one Microbrewery in particular in the Seattle area that does this,
Hales Ales of Kirkland.  they brew Ed's Ale for the Comet Tavern and
Bulldog Ale for Von's bar and grill, and perhaps others.  it's probably
fairly common, especially in California and Oregon, so the list being
compiled might want to take this into account.

						-- dave

-- 
 /'''   The Machman     machman@milton.u.washington.edu    david c carroll
 c-OO                                                                      
    \                     "Big Science.  Hallelujah"
   -
From: gummitch@techbook.com (Jeff Frane)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Madison Homebrewer__Attention!
Summary: Need to contact Steve Klafka
Keywords: Madison
Date: 19 Aug 92 19:17:33 GMT
Article-I.D.: techbook.1992Aug19.191733.19818
Organization: TECHbooks of Beaverton Oregon - Public Access Unix

Someone from Madison, Wisconsin recently posted a message here and I
stupidly lost their e-mail address.  Could that person (or anyone else
from Madison) get in touch with me by e-mail?  I want to be able to send
messages along to Steve Klafka or Mark Kessenich, two active members of
the Homebrewers Guild. 

--Jeff Frane
(gummitch@techbook.com)


-- 
gummitch@techbook.COM  Public Access UNIX at (503) 644-8135 (1200/2400) 
"Where the press is free and every man able to read, all is safe."
                                    --Thomas Jefferson
From: stefank@math.chalmers.se (Stefan Karlsson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Wyeast in Sweden: Answer to my own question
Date: 12 Aug 92 14:08:19 GMT

Hi there

Some weeks ago I posted a question:
'How do you get Wyeast in Sweden?'
Now I have the answer. One of the brewers' shops here
in Goteborg import it directly from the lab.
You should watch your back yard first. :-)

So, you Scandinavians, here's the address:

Bodega
J{rntorget 7
413 04  G\TEBORG

phone			fax

nat 031-13 47 05	031-11 16 05
--------------------------------------
int +46 31 13 47 05	+46 31 16 05

Be happy

Stefan
stefank@math.chalmers.se
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: parker@mprgate.mpr.ca (Ross Parker)
Subject: Re: labels...
Organization: MPR Teltech Ltd., Burnaby, B.C., Canada
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 92 00:08:07 GMT

In article <92225.122958SPW103@psuvm.psu.edu>, <SPW103@psuvm.psu.edu> writes:
|> In article <1992Aug12.154540.28480@athena.mit.edu>, bfbrown@athena.mit.edu
|> (Brian F. Brown) says:
|> >
|> >I was just wondering how difficult it is to make and apply your own
|> >labels to bottles...  I'm not really fond of writing codes on caps
|> >to remember which bottle is which brew, and I think having a label

I keep all my brew in boxes (Grolsch bottles, 1 doz fits perfectly in wine
bottle boxes)... I just label the boxes.

When the brew is in the fridge, I label the shelves with masking tape.

No labels on the bottles to worry about, and tape is cheap!

-- 
Ross Parker           |                            | DoD# 1188   KotHFJ
MPR Teltech Ltd.      | You can't erase the dream, | '88 FJ1200
Burnaby, B.C., Canada | You can only wake me up... | parker@mprgate.mpr.ca
From: sbeitzel@wet.UUCP (Stephen Beitzel)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Grains - after mashing, then what?
Keywords: malt, grain, cooking
Date: 14 Aug 92 20:47:13 GMT
Followup-To: rec.crafts.brewing
Organization: Wetware Diversions, San Francisco

The first batch of beer I made at a time when I was low on other baking
supplies, so I used the grain and hops for fertilizer after I was done
boiling them.  The next batch I made when I was prepared, and I tried
turning the grain into bread, but wound up with a very flavorless breadstuff
that went uneaten and got turned into compost.

So, what do you all do with your spent grain?

Steve
-- 
Stephen Beitzel  -- sbeitzel@wet.com   | "Life is Pain,   |
"Ownership of the above opinions       | and love is a    |  "Relax."
depends solely on how offended you are | Lie."            |  J. Burton
by them."                              |   R. Sarbacker   |
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: spencer@med.umich.edu (Spencer W. Thomas)
Subject: Re: Brewing directly from grains
Organization: University of Michigan
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 18:33:09 GMT

> After having read the first few chapters of Papazians book, I am leaning 
> towards brewing directly from malted grains rather than from kits.  However
> the directions Papazian gives for this are more advanced and he assumes
> that one has already brewed a couple of batches from kits.

I strongly recommend starting with at least a couple of extract-based
brews.  The time investment is much less, and you can learn one part
of the process before you have to learn the whole thing.  The part
that is different about grain brewing basically replaces buying the
can of extract and mixing it into the water.  You can make very good
beers with extract and adjuncts (a little bit of crystal malt,
chocolate malt, etc.) and hopping it yourself instead of buying hopped
kits. 

>  I am aware that
> it is riskier and requires more work.  On the other hand it is cheaper (prime
> consideration!).  

The equipment is definitely more expensive than a couple of extract
batches.  In my case (approximately):
$30	33 qt "ceramic" pot (black with white spots)
???	33 qt "picnic cooler"  I already had this, but if you need to
	buy it, you're probably looking at $20-30?
$30-40	Immersion wort chiller, if you can find copper tubing at a good price
	and are willing to assemble it yourself.  Add $5-$10 if you
	don't already have a garden hose.
$5	Parts to make lautering manifold for cooler "tun" (see my
	posting in Homebrew Digest, probably tomorrow.)

$100	Total, more or less.

> How does brewing directly from grains work (papazian got a bit
> complex for my understanding)?  

A good reason to try the simpler procedure first.

> (its all the same 
> during and after the ferment stage right?).

It's basically the same once you start boiling.

>  How much cheaper is it?  

Again, representative costs in my case.  3kg malt extract for $15-25
vs. 8lb grain for $10.  The rest of the ingredients would be the same.
The grain cost ($1.20/lb) is a small batch, preground price from a
local homebrew shop with a roller mill (they mill it on demand).
Since I'm not going to fork out $100 for a MaltMill(tm), I'm not
buying big sacks of grain at $.50/lb or less.  Thus, the savings run
$5-15 for a typical batch.

>How much more work is it?  

With my setup, it probably adds about 3-4 hours to the brewing
process, counting mash time, sparge time, and longer boiling time.
Most of this time is spent relaxing and not worrying, of course.

> Does the beer taste as good without the kit?

Should be better.  That's the main reason for going to all grain.

>  Are temperature concerns greater when brewing directly from grains?

Yes.  You need to be able to set the mash temperatures to within a few
degrees F (5 anyway).  Fermentation temperature concerns will be the
same, of course.
--
=Spencer W. Thomas 		HSITN, U of Michigan, Ann Arbor, MI 48109
spencer.thomas@med.umich.edu	313-747-2778
From: cvolle@uceng.UC.EDU (charles volle)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Brew supplies in Columbia, MD?
Date: 20 Aug 92 17:27:15 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: College of Engineering, University of Cincinnati


	I vacationed with my bro-in-law last week. He's from 
MAryland and was impressed (who's proud?) with my  homebrews which we sipped
while waiting for the burgers to cook!

	I think I can convert him pretty easily to this great 
craft.  He's a former baker ( knows what yeasties can do!) and all he
needs is some priming :-)

	I'm passing on a copy of Papazian and need to have a place
to tell him to get some local supplies and advice in the Columbia
area.

	Any help from my eastern brew buddies is appreciated!!!

	E-mail or post!
	Cheers!

	Chuck Volle	cvolle@uceng.uc.edu
From: stefank@math.chalmers.se (Stefan Karlsson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Wyeast in Sweden (answer to my own question)
Keywords: wyeast, Sweden
Date: 20 Aug 92 12:02:15 GMT
Organization: Chalmers University of Technology, Gothenburg Sweden

Hi there

Some weeks ago I posted a question:
'How do you get Wyeast in Sweden?'
Now I have the answer. One of the brewers' shops here
in Goteborg import it directly from the lab.
You should watch your back yard first. :-)

So, you Scandinavians, here's the address:

Bodega
J{rntorget 7
413 04  G\TEBORG

phone			fax

nat 031-13 47 05	031-11 16 05
--------------------------------------
int +46 31 13 47 05	+46 31 16 05

Be happy

Stefan
stefank@math.chalmers.se

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: drw@blink.att.com (Doug Woolley(x2405))
Subject: Natural Gas Burners
Organization: AT&T
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 21:37:24 GMT
Summary: Natural Gas Burners & All-grain Brewing
Keywords: Natural Gas Burners

ITEM 1:
As a relative newcomer to the craft of brewing, I have yet
to go 'all-grain', but am itching to do so.  I've done
one recipe so far that used 5 lbs. of grain, but was pushing
the limit on my 4 gal. pot once sparge water was added.  In
looking for pots, I saw someone had posted the number for
Rapids, so I got a catalog and sure enough you can get a nice
10 gal SS pot with lid for ~$110, which is a little steep for
the wallet but it is the best deal I've seen so far.  The
only other (cheaper) idea I've seen for a large SS boiling pot 
is the "cut-the-end-off-a-beer-keg" one.  Any comments from
the audience concerning the use of either large pots or
modified kegs? Does having a lid matter much? Is there need for
a spigot?

ITEM 2:
The trouble with all-grain is the vast amount of time needed to
just get so much water to boil on our stove (gas) so the
'King/Cajun' Cooker idea seems ideal except that I'd like to
run it on natural gas not propane.  I've seen 40000 BTU stock-pot
burners in the Rapids catalog, but that would be a $300 venture
whereas the cookers are $40-50.  Has anyone seen or know about
any single burner Cajun Cooker-like units that run on nat. gas?
Any comments/suggestions from people who use propane driven 
cookers indoors?

Thanks ahead of time for any comments/ideas/suggestions.

I Do Brew, Do You?

Doug Woolley
From: slk6p@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Last Subj!  Mead/Acid Levels
Date: 17 Aug 92 00:52:01 MDT
Organization: Utah State University

Shooooot.  I keep missing the subject when I post!  Arghhhh.  Sorry folks

The last message should have included a subject regarding MEAD/ Acid Levels

						Next time....  JDW

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: BAUGHMANKR@APPSTATE.EDU (Kinney Baughman)
Subject: Re: blueberries in my blowoff
Organization: APPALACHIAN STATE UNIVERSITY
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1992 17:11:06 GMT
X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.23

In <1992Aug18.143237.17733@genrad.com> mal@genrad.com writes:

> Next question - how do I rack the beer?   In other words, I want to siphon
> it off the blueberries in a few days, but truly believe it will clog my
> siphon tube - since it is the same tube I used for my blowoff.
> 
> I suppose I could just put some cheesecloth over the mouth of the carboy
> and pour slowly down the side of my bucket, but I was hoping for a
> "quieter" way to siphon it.

Wrap a copper wound Chore-boy pot scrubber to the bottom of the pick-up tube.
You could then wrap cheesecloth around that.  This is an effective filter
and prevents the "louder" method which would cause you to oxidize the beer.

 ___ ----------------------------------------------------------- ___
|   |                   Kinney Baughman                         |   |
|   |            baughmankr@conrad.appstate.edu                 |   |
 \ /                                                             \ /
  |        "Beer is my business and I'm late for work"            |
   ---------------------------------------------------------------
From: slk6p@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: WARNING CL and NH4===BAD NEWS!
Date: 21 Aug 92 09:57:43 MDT
Organization: Utah State University

Just a note:  All the discussion of removing labels that has passed by
people discussed use of CHLORINE and AMMONIA solutions (among others)
for soaking.  

	I just want to be sure noone makes the FATAL mistake of trying to
mix these two to get a double effort.  

MIXING AMMONIA AND CHLORINE RELEASES TOXIC GASES.

DO NOT COMBINE THESE TWO SOLUTIONS!  YOU AND YOUR DOGS WILL REGRET IT!

       Read the label, there is a clear warning.
Every year a number of housewives, maids, and homebrewers die from this 
terrible, yet simple mistake.  Don't be the next statistic!
(well, I don't really know if any homebrewers have been that unlucky
or brew nutrients in our blood actually protect us from ALL harm)
					J. Wyllie (the coyote)

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: pcj1@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu (Pierre Jelenc)
Subject: Re: You Think "Salvator" is Hard? [Re: Salvator (pronunciation)]
Reply-To: pcj1@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu (Pierre Jelenc)
Organization: Columbia University
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 23:13:40 GMT

In article <Aug21.154725.24404@yuma.ACNS.ColoState.EDU> copeland@lamar.ColoState.EDU (Jeffrey Copeland) writes:
>In article <01050166.bjqc0b@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us> joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us writes:
>>
>>But I have yet to guess at ANY suitable pronunciation of
>>
>>	g u e u z e
>>
>>OK, so I guess it's time for me to go watch that copy of "The Beer
>>Hunter" that my friend Nick loaned me ....
>>
>I believe its pronounced the same as gauze, as in the bandage.


The sound is that of the german O-umlaut (O"), somewhat like the "u"
in "hurt".

<G><O"><Z>


Pierre

Pierre Jelenc                        pcj1@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu 
                                    Columbia University, New York
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1992 22:10:58 EDT
From: <VPN1@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: glass or plastic carboys

Since there seems to be a lot of interest, I thought
I'd post that glass carboys can be obtained from
Presque Isle Wine Cellars, 9440 Buffalo Road,
North East (that's the name of the town) PA
l6428.  Info: 814-725-1314.  Orders: 800-488-7492.
The price of a 5 gal. carboy is $10.60 plus shipping.
I've bought stuff from these folks for 25 years and
recommend them highly.
     I made wine (and a little beer) in plastic carboys
for many years.  I still use them for short-term
fermentation although I've managed to pick up quite a
few glass carboys from people leaving the hobby.
With long term storage in plastic, oxidation becomes
a problem.   Happy brewing.
                           vince norris, penn state u.
From: hersh@expo.lcs.mit.edu (Jay Hersh)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: An apology was (Re: Federal law on green glass )
Date: 18 Aug 92 18:30:29 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: X Consortium, MIT Laboratory for Computer Science


I recently criticized Michale Klett for a posting he made
regarding a supposed Federal Law on green glass.

In hastily reading his post I did not realize he was
not forwarding this theory, simply asking for clarification
of it.

I apologize for any aspersions cast on Mr. Klett..

	JaH
--
Hopfen und Malz, Gott erhalts
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: ulick@angelico.helios.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford)
Subject: Re: Abita! Abita!
Organization: University of Notre Dame, Notre Dame
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 15:25:36 GMT

Is this the same brewery that makes Rattlesnake beer?


+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 
+ 'There was a  master come unto the earth, + Ulick Stafford, PP-ASEL       +
+    born in the holy land of Indiana,      + Dept of Chemical Engineering, +
+ in the mystical hills east of Fort Wayne'.+ Notre Dame, IN 46556          +
+      B'fhearr liom bheith ag eitilt.      +    ulick@bach.helios.nd.edu   +
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From: bj@artie.austin.ibm.com (Bjarne 'BJ' Hansen)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Exploding carboys ?????
Date: 13 Aug 92 20:18:52 GMT
Reply-To: bj@perfmap.austin.ibm.com
Organization: As little as possible

After brewing two batches in a plastic bin, I have decided to buy
a glass carboy.
I just received a porter kit from 'Great Fermentations', and the 
instructions says NOT to single-stage ferment in a glass carboy,
and they know of more than 10 exploding glass carboys.
I've read Papazian, and, there is a picture of a glass carboy with
a hose for the foam, so what's the deal ????

Any comments on one-stage vs. two-stage vs. brewcap welcome (please
remember: Make beer, not war :-) )

Cheers
Bjarne 'BJ' Hansen
Car freak and home brewer
All opinions are mine. All models over 18. Your mileage may wary.
Batteries not included. Void were prohibited.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: rich@progress.COM (Rich Lenihan)
Subject: Re: WYeast - neat stuff
Organization: Progress Software Corp.
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 22:38:20 GMT

jim@thor.albany.edu (SCHLEMMER JAMES A) writes:


>I thought it curious that he showed me this little experiment of his and
>it's implied conclusion - that Wyeast is more resilient than one might think
>- but then went on to say that he wouldn't be getting anymore in until 
>the fall because "in the summer this stuff could end up sitting on a runway 
>in 100F heat while in transit across the country, which makes for duds."  

Gee.  I've been told at two different homebrew shops that Wyeast ships
their product (to the East coast, at least) packed in dry ice.  Maybe,
this guy doesn't want to carry the inventory during hoembrewing's "slow"
season.

>Also, he wasn't very enthused when I excitingly told him that I had 
>successfully restarted some SN Pale Ale yeast from bottles.  Wonder why...

-Rich

>Jim
--
Rich Lenihan                 UUCP: mit-eddie!progress!rich
Progress Software Corp.      Internet: rich@progress.com