HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: sudeep@arc.UUCP (Sudeep Sharma)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Need tire info. for 300ZX
Date: 14 Aug 92 18:35:21 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Advansoft Research Corp, Santa Clara, CA



I would like to get input from owners of 
1990+ 300ZX (non-turbo) regarding tires.
I currently have the original Michelin 
SPORT XGTV tires, and I was wondering
how does the Dunlop D40M2 (this is what
Nissan is putting on 1992 models) and
the Goodyear GS-C compare. I would like
to reduce the noise, and improve wet (rain)
and dry performance - and hopefully have
tires that would last over 20,000 miles.

Thanx in advance.

Sudeep.
apple!arc!sudeep
From: ai065@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Thomas Hill)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Rangers:Why is there less clutter in the newer engines?
Date: 20 Aug 92 21:00:31 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio, (USA)


   I drive an 83 2.3 cyl Ford Ranger. I was looking at an 85 Ranger (same
engine) the other day and was shocked to see how much less clutter and
confusing hoses/wires there were in the engine compartment. For one thing,
I could actually SEE the distributor cap, something that was a major hassle
to get to in my truck. I realize that this newer engine was fuel injected
while mine has a carb, but don't tell me that simply that is enough to clear
all those air lines and wires out of there? What gives?

   Tom
-- 
"A large creature about 7 1/2 to 8 foot tall. It was greyish black in color,
and as it went away from me I seen the backside of it walking as a man would
walk on it's hind legs."- Former Sheriff Oliver Potter, Vancouver, Washington
The Cryptozoology Information Network. Want on our Email mailing list? Amiga!
From: derek@nezsdc.icl.co.nz (Derek Tearne)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Slick 5 (Creme de Menthe)
Date: 12 Aug 92 23:17:36 GMT
Organization: Fujitsu New Zealand

In the previous post I mentioned Creme de menthe as an all purpose 
automotive additive.

I forgot to do this in the post though and to avoid the 
"How can you possibly suggest that, it's like pointing a loaded gun
etc.etc." flames which I can now feel coming my way. For those who require 
extra information to identify humour here they are.

:-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) 
:-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) 

That was a joke.  Creme de Menthe is very sugary.  Put it in your car and it 
will stop.  DONT TRY THIS AT HOME.  If anyone puts creme de Menthe in either
their car or the driver I accept absolutely no responsibility for the results.
Neither will my employers, their wives/husbands, their dogs, their wives dogs, 
their children or the New Zealand Government.

I guess I'm covered now.  

ObUL:  The original poster should try eggs to stop his radiator leak.


-- 

Derek Tearne. -- derek@nezsdc.icl.co.nz --  Fujitsu/ICL New Zealand -- 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: keith@lucid.com (Keith Thesing)
Subject: Help for My '85 Colt Turbo
Organization: Lucid, Inc.
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 92 15:58:33 GMT

My '85 Colt Turbo has 145,000 miles on it.  It runs great when
cold but as soon as it warms up all the way it starts to buck a
bit and then if you kill the engine and let it sit, forget it,
the thing won't even start.  I think that it is getting fuel
cause I can smell the stuff as I'm trying to start it up.  My
feeling is that it's some type of ignition problem.  Anyway I've
had it to 2 shops, including the dealer and they can't figure
this thing out.  $400 later I have no solution.  Got any ideas?

Keith-
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kevin@nuchat.sccsi.com (Kevin Brown)
Subject: Re: RMI-25 cooling system treatment
Organization: I can't see any in the immediate vicinity...
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 22:44:43 GMT

In article <26439@life.ai.mit.edu> pwu@pop-tarts.ai.mit.edu (Peng Wu) writes:
>An important function of antifreeze is, in my opinion, anti-boiling.  If the
>cooling system treatment RMI-25 does not raise the boiling temperature of
>water much, I would hesitate to use it with plain water in a car designed to
>use antifreeze, regardless other promises.

While the boiling point of the fluid is raised by the antifreeze, the
antifreeze will also reduce the heat transfer capacity of the fluid.

The primary method of increasing the boiling point of the fluid is to put
it under pressure.  This is why most automotive cooling systems run at 15
psi or so over atmospheric.

Antifreeze is just that: something to keep the fluid from freezing.  The
"coolant" term for it is really a misnomer.  Antifreeze also has corrosion
inhibitors and lubricants which prevent the passages from corroding and
help lubricate the water pump.

If you're having cooling problems, and want to increase the cooling capacity
of your cooling system, running straight water works much better than running
a water/antifreeze combination.  But in doing so, you lose the other 
properties provided by antifreeze.


-- 
				Kevin Brown

			    kevin@nuchat.sccsi.com
			    kevin@taronga.taronga.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: welchb@woods.ulowell.edu
Subject: Re: Toyota Corrola Spark Plug Gap
Organization: University of Lowell
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 15:59:55 GMT

I just went out to my Toyota in the parking lot, and could not find it
either.  No owners manual with car, either.  I can look it up at home in
Haynes if no one else answers.  But, one point to make, I have always
found the plugs to be pre-gapped correctly (not necessarily made by
Toyota) in my experience with one Toyota and two Novas.
-- 
Brendan Welch, UMass/Lowell, W1LPG,  welchb@woods.ulowell.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: peter@access.digex.com (peter baltimore)
Subject: Re: Brake pedal -'92 Lincoln -Strange Noise When Starting Off
Organization: Express Access Online Communications, Greenbelt, MD USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1992 21:13:52 GMT

The strange noise begins when you start off and put the car into drive
after the car has been parked.  It sounds like a cable being released 
under the car, which transmits a noise or vibration through the brake
pedal.  The dealer says that it is the computer checking the ABS brake
system.  This does not sound right to me, because the noise is inter-
mittant and does not always do it. Sometimes it does it while I am back-
ing up once again after being parked and the car has been restarted.
Any advice on this problem would be appreciated.  Send personal E-mail
answers to peter@digex.access
From: tuncer@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Emre Tuncer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Transmission Problem
Date: 18 Aug 92 17:51:15 GMT
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin, Austin TX

Hello,
My automatic transmission makes a noise  when it is in reverse and
in drive (the noise turns on only when I need power in drive, it
is always there when in reverse). The noise is similar to 
the one that wheel of fortune generates, and the  
frequency is consistent with the motor revulation speed. What could be 
the problem any ideas, tips? Anything would be appriciated,
Thanks 

Emre Tuncer

-- 
--------
----   Emre Tuncer                              
     tuncer@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu                   
--------             
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: esprit@netcom.com (Alan F. Perry)
Subject: Re: '57 TR3 no engine go jap?
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 92 14:39:35 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 

In article <713948443.F00001@blkcat.UUCP> Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory) writes:
> CA> Just what don't you guys like about Lucas kit ?  Is there something
> CA> in particular that has offended you, or is it just because they
> CA> aren't made in the US of A ?
>
>I think much of their bad reputation was earned from the early electric fuel
>pumps, then reinforced by the XK-E starters.
>

My own personal dislike of Lucas started with the three starters in two years
that I had to replace in my TR7.  It continued with the story of a voltage
regulator in a friend's Europa in which a cardboard insulator caught fire.
I have all sorts of first- and second-hand stories of interesting Lucas
failures.

alan

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hdasilva@cs.ulowell.edu (Herbert DaSilva)
Subject: Re: 5 pt harnesses
Organization: University of Massachusetts at Lowell Computer Science
Distribution: na
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1992 03:01:01 GMT

In article <23468@oasys.dt.navy.mil> samblane@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Sean Samblanet) writes:
>Just a bit of info.  Technically federal laws state that passenger vehicles
>shall have 3-point and ONLY 3-point seating restraints.  I think this
>is silly seeing that a 5 or 6 point system is safer but on the other
>hand I've never heard of anyone in trouble for using safer equipment.
>I found this info_ when I started racing my street car in SCCA showroom
>stock class.

  Hold the phone, son!!  I'm pretty sure that DOT just requires that
  the original safety belts not be removed from the car, not that you
  can't ADD a 4-point or 5-point.  I'm building an SCCA IT race car,
  and it plainly says you have to leave the driver and passenger belts
  in a car that will be driven on the street so it will pass
  inspection.  However, some states are more picky than the DOT, and
  that is a different story...

	Herb "Mopar Maniac" DaSilva
From: dye@i88.isc.com (Ken R. Dye )
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Rear-end Bearings
Date: 12 Aug 92 22:51:46 GMT
Article-I.D.: i88.1992Aug12.225146.15040
Organization: INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation, Naperville, IL

In article <VBREAULT.92Aug12072856@rinhp750.gmr.com> vbreault@rinhp750.gmr.com (Val Breault) writes:
>In article <1992Aug11.221947.18634@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> jimo@navaho.uucp (25656-o'keefe) writes:
>
>   I have a 87 Chevy G20 Van with a bad rear-end bearing.  The symptoms
>   are that I hear and feel a rumbling sound from the rear of the van
>   from 45 MPH and above.  I isolated it to the passenger side rear
>   wheel by running the van in drive with the wheel raised.  In that
>   mode I can hear the same sound from that side only.  Also, I can feel
>   a little play in the wheel hub on that side.  I've already totally
>   rebuilt the drive shaft. 
>
>   Presuming my diagnosis is right, how difficult is it the replace the
>   outer bearings (right & left)?  I never done this before but I have the
>   HELM shop manual and it seems to be do-able.  If I do it, I plan to rent
>   a bearing puller.  Do I NEED a bearing insertion tool also or can I
>   get by with common tools?  My auto part supplier gave me an overview of
>   the job..
>
>It's an easy job Jim.  Basically, the bearing is pressed onto the axle
>and the unit is slid into the housing.  The whole works is held in place
>by a retainer plate that bolts to the axle housing through holes in the 
>brake backing plate.  The bearing is a tight fit into the housing so a
>puller is probably necessary to remove it and a few taps from a hammer 
>onto the end of the axle will be necessary to install it.

	Cheap way to remove the axle (without puller) is to undo
the bolts, put the tire back on *with just a few turns on each
lug nut*.  Push the tire all the way in, and then give it a hard
yank towards you...a few of these and the axle should pop right out.

--Ken
-- 
Ken R. Dye				an optimist is a guy		 |
Interactive Systems Corp., Chicago	that has never had		 | 
(800) LAI-UNIX x341			much experience			 |
dye@i88.isc.comm						archy	 |
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dye@i88.isc.com (Ken R. Dye )
Subject: Re: SURVEY: Home mechanic's favorites
Organization: INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation, Naperville, IL
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 22:14:38 GMT

In article <1992Aug14.160944.22116@mcnc.org> brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks) writes:
>In article <16evibINN736@smli.Eng.Sun.COM> lockwood@acidqueen.Eng.Sun.COM (Jim Lockwood) writes:
>>In article <1992Aug13.212200.2819@mcnc.org> brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks) writes:
>>>In article <16eep0INN66i@smli.Eng.Sun.COM> lockwood@acidqueen.Eng.Sun.COM (Jim Lockwood) writes:
>>>>>>>>I'm starting a new survey.
>>>>>>>>in the sense of:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>   b). Easy repair...
>>>>>>>>
>>>>A '57 Chevy with a small block V8.  There is so much room in the
>>>>engine compartment, you just climb in over the fender, get in there 
>>>>
>>>Even easier is the same car with an inline 6. I've owned a '55 Chevy w/ a
>>
>>I think you got me on that one.  With a 6 and no heater I bet you could
>>stand on the ground beside the engine on the right side of the engine
>>compartment if you needed to. 
>>
>Hmm. An interesting thought. I'll have to try that when I get home today :-)
>
>BTW the heater is a minimal problem under the hood with only 2 hoses
>under the hood. everything else is under the dash. The (rare) original
>equipment air conditioners - that's another story. Fortunately, I don't have
>one on my car.

	Where is the heat come out on your car?  It was under
the driver's seat on my '57 Pontiac, blew heat at both the
front and rear.  Best damn heater I've ever seen in a car...

--Ken
From: louis@Tandem.com (Louis Meadows)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Clutch problem
Keywords: clutch toyota
Date: 19 Aug 92 01:53:35 GMT
Organization: Tandem Computers

In article <BsuuA5.3sJ@news.udel.edu>, iseman@chopin.udel.edu (Stephen Early) writes:
|> In article <4571@rosie.NeXT.COM> rsherman@sailer.next.com (Rick Sherman) writes:
|> >Help,
|> >
|> >Where do I bleed the air from a Clutch cylinder? I'm not even sure if the  
|> >two are related. Does anyone have a clue? 
|> >
|> >After fixing this problem, I'll still need to figure out what caused the  
|> >leak in the first place.
|> >
|> If you follow your hydraulic line from the clutch master cylinder to the 
|> transmission you will see another cylinder, called a slave cylinder, attached
|> to the trans.  The slave cylinder has the bleeder bolt on it.  You will need 
|> two people to do this job.
|> 
  Steve,

Come on, We know you only need ONE person.   It's easy, just gets some 1/4" tubing to fit over the bleeder value.   Cut it to a lenght that will go to the
garage floor.  Attach one end to the slave and place the other in a can of Hydraulic fluid.   Now open the value and press peddle several times untill all 
the air is out.  Then close the value.  As the end of the tube is in fluid it will suck fluid back into the system instead of air and we do not need TWO people.

  Louis

 Email :Meadows_louis@tandem.com





|> The leak could be from one of three places, the hydraulic lines (unlikely), the
|> slave cylinder (very likely), or the clutch master cylinder (very likely).  If
|> the slave cylinder is wet it is leaking.  If you see no signs of leaks, pull the
|> carpet away from the clutch pedal inside the car.  If the carpet or firewall is
|> wet then the clutch master cylinder is leaking.
|> 
|> Steve
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: saorrel@sandia.gov (Stanley A Orrell)
Subject: Books on carburetors, where to get?
Organization: Not so you'd notice.  
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 92 18:03:21 GMT

Can anyone point me to a mailorder bookstore where they are likely 
to have detailed books on adjustment and repair of specific models 
of carburetors?  Particularly those on larger Ford engines. 

Any direction would be appreciated.  

Stan  i.e. saorrel@somnet.sandia.gov
From: lihan@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Bruce G. Bostwick)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: How do I start working on my A/C?
Date: 14 Aug 92 17:36:51 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin, Austin TX

In article <BsutzG.3r1@news.udel.edu> iseman@chopin.udel.edu (Stephen Early) writes:
>In article <1992Aug10.124354.1@pa881a.inland.com> nason@pa881a.inland.com writes:
>>> 
>>
>>Assuming your in Engineering school, the theory in not too difficult. 
>>Refrigerant is exposed to low pressure, boils, and therefor absorbs heat.  
>                                   
>WHAT!, NO NO NO.
>
>First of all, refrigerant exposed to low pressure will cool.
>
>Second, if a substance boils it certainly does NOT absorb heat-it gives heat
>off.

Sorry, but he's right.  Remember we're talking about HEAT here.  When
you boil a liquid, the boiling process draws heat that would otherwise
have increased the temperature of the liquid.  This can be
demonstrated by boiling a pan of water on your stove -- you SUPPLY
heat to the boiling water with the gas flame (or heating element for
you electric folks) and the water boils instead of heating up.  You
can prove that it is absorbing heat by turning the flame off -- the
water stops boiling and cools off, rather than heating up and melting
the pan as it would if the process generated heat.

Yes, refrigerant exposed to low pressure will cool, because the liquid
which is then superheated with respect to its vapor pressure will
boil, absorbing heat from the container.  It will then release this
heat when compressed as it condenses.

Remember the 'evaporator' is on the INSIDE of the car and the
'condenser' is on the OUTSIDE..



-- 
<BGB>
lihan@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu        /     "I can't complain,
(really Bruce Bostwick)        /   but sometimes I still do"
from the great state of TEXAS /         --Joe Walsh--
From: ilh@lcs.mit.edu (Lee Hetherington)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Color Match - Bullsh*t
Date: 12 Aug 92 21:31:55 GMT
	<Bsvs7t.B5y@watserv1.uwaterloo.ca>
Reply-To: ilh@lcs.mit.edu
Organization: MIT/LCS Spoken Language Systems
In-reply-to: white@watsci.waterloo.edu's message of 12 Aug 92 17:21:29 GMT

Why do you need `color match' for black?  Black isn't a color? :-)
--
Lee Hetherington
From: vpopesc@opus.uucp (Valentin Popescu)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: reducing understeer (and other questions)
Date: 18 Aug 92 06:28:27 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: California State University, Lost Angels


Hello,

o  Can anyone tell me what the normal way of reducing understeer is? The
   car in question is an 1985 Dodge Daytona with 2.2l Turbo engine and
   front wheel drive. P195-50R15 tires. (It understeers annoyingly.. at
   least compared to what I used to drive before)

Also, other various questions that were always in the back of my mind
and never got a chance to ask:


o  Are different gasolines (i.e. Arco, Shell, Exxon, Chevron) really
   that different? Or is it just publicity? I am refering to same
   grade gasoline.. i.e. 89 octane Shell vs 89 Octane Chevron, etc..

   How much techroline does chevron put in their gas anyway? DO they
   put enuff for a fuel injection treatment, or are you better off
   buying a bottle of techroline? Do other gas companies put anything
   qually beneficient in their gasolines?


Thanks.. answer to any of these would be muchly appreciated. :)
-- 
_____________     __      ____________ 
\_____      /    /_ \     \     _____/ Valentin Popescu
 \_____     \_____/  \____/     ____/  <vpopesc@opus.calstatela.edu>
  \______________      ____________/   P.O. Box 421181
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: lusky@hal.gnu.ai.mit.edu (Jonathan R. Lusky)
Subject: Re: Natural Gas Power - Good or Bad???
Organization: /etc/organization
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 04:39:53 GMT

In article <12130052@hpmwga.sr.hp.com> jefftb@hpmwtd.sr.hp.com (Jeff Brown) writes:
>Pacific Gas and Electric has an experimental fleet of LNG ( is that right?)
>trucks. It's is very clean but I believe they have a very short range. The 
>application in mind are service fleet vehicles that can come home every night
>for refueling. You might want to contact PG&E, but I think any wide spead 
>use of natural gas as a motor fuel is at least years away.
>
>Jeff Brown

LNG is liquified natural gas...  not very cost effective due to the difficulty
in liquifying methane.  Every natural gas company I know of have most of their
vehicles equipped to run both gasoline and compressed natural gas (CNG).  
CNG tanks do need to be fairly large to get a good range, compared to gasoline.
CNG range/tank volume isn't much worse than methanol, though.  Bye far,
the most expensive component in any CNG conversion is the tanks themselves.
However, the primary reason you haven't seen factory CNG fuled vehicles
is emissions.  Conversions don't have to meet federal emissions standard
(in fact, they are specifically exempt).  I know GM has got a handle on the
emissions problems, and is suppsed to be building several thousand CNG fueled
1/2 ton pickups for state and federal governments.



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: wb8foz@skybridge.SCL.CWRU.Edu (David Lesher)
Subject: Re: '57 TR3 no engine go jap?
Reply-To: wb8foz@skybridge.scl.cwru.edu (David Lesher)
Organization: NRK Clinic for habitual NetNews abusers - Beltway Annex
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 92 17:59:44 GMT

Others said
# > Just what don't you guys like about Lucas kit ?  Is there something
# > in particular that has offended you, or is it just because they
# > aren't made in the US of A ?

Reputation.....

q) Why do the British drink their beer warm?

a) They own Lucas refrigerators.
--
A host is a host from coast to coast..wb8foz@skybridge.scl.cwru.edu
& no one will talk to a host that's close..........................
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433
From: todd_oconnor@taligent.com (Todd O'Connor)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: SURVEY: Home mechanic's favorites
Date: 12 Aug 92 23:02:02 GMT
Organization: Taligent, Inc.
X-Date: Wed, 12 Aug 92 16:02:39 GMT
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d3

In article <1992Aug12.004534.19969@athena.cs.uga.edu> James P. H. Fuller,
fuller@athena.cs.uga.edu writes:
>     I'd like to vote loudly and often for Jeeps.  They've been making
>basically the same design since forever, they're simple as lawnmowers
>and you can crawl under them without jacking them up.

I'll second that vote. I'm on my second Jeep and just love 'em.

tc
From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: '57 TR3 no engine go jap?
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 19:14:13 -0500

 BS> I have a '57 TR3 with no engine.
 BS> I i thinking about putting a Toyota or Nissan drive
 BS> train in it...

My first sports car was a '55 TR2, and I thought the engine was pretty good;
good performance and excellent gas mileage. I had to do a valve job on it once,
but otherwise there were no problems. I would expect the later 2.2 l. unit to be
as good or better.

My advice is to evaluate the car and set some objectives for it. If it can
readily be restored to fine, original condition, I would install an original
engine. But if the body and interior are pretty well clapped out, I would
install a Jap engine.
From: jeff.masterman@cutting.hou.tx.us (Jeff Masterman) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Emissions - Help!
Date: 18 Aug 92 15:19:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: The Cutting Edge - Houston, TX - 713-466-1525
Reply-To: jeff.masterman@cutting.hou.tx.us (Jeff Masterman) 

AM>Lately, I have noticed a knocking and banging sounds coming from the car
AM>at certain RPM's.  The best way to describe the sound is that it sounds like
AM>a stone trapped in the exhaust system.  The sound comes from the exhaust sys
AM>and not the engine compartment.  Could one of the catalytic convertors need
AM>replacing.
Yep, its the convertor substrate going south. The monolithic type on
your car is prone to breaking up and rattling. Besure to replace the
muffler on that side as well, it will collect all the broken pieces
coming from the convertor.
---
 . OLX 2.2 . Unable to locate Coffee -- Operator Halted!
                 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech