HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jimh@ultra.com (Jim Hurley)
Subject: Re: Large Anemones
Organization: Ultra Network Technologies
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 92 22:39:48 GMT

In <1992Oct13.152923.5356@tin.monsanto.com> kncarp@nicsn1.monsanto.com (Kevin N. Carpenter) writes:

>AS.CCB@forsythe.stanford.edu (Christopher Bekins) writes:
>: kncarp@nicsn1.monsanto.com (Kevin N. Carpenter) writes:
>: 
>: > Although my anemones eat thawed once-frozen shrimp
>: > they really go nuts over fresh ... ones.
>:                  ^^^^
>: 
>:  How do you know???

>Simply by their willingness to take the food.  Once-frozen food is
>accepted, fresh food is devoured.  If anemones could jump, I'd swear
>they would to get to the never-frozed shrimp.

>--
>Kevin Carpenter       Internet:  kncarp@nicsn1.monsanto.com
>Monsanto Company      Fidonet:   1:100/215.0 (home)
>St. Louis, Missouri, U.S.A.
>Opinions expressed are those of the author, not the company he works for. 

I sometimes wonder if fish aren't like us when it comes to food -
they don't know what's good for them. I rarely feed live tubifex,
but when I do, almost every fish I have goes bonkers, yet these are
smelly, fatty things, that aren't a complete nutrition source.
-- 
Jim Hurley --> jimh@ultra.com  ...!ames!ultra!jimh  (408) 922-0100
Ultra Network Technologies / 101 Daggett Drive / San Jose CA 95134
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:7877 alt.aquaria:5255
From: rbennet1@neumann.une.edu.au (Robert Bennetts.)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: [M] Help!!! Coral Very Sick
Keywords: coral sick worm?
Date: 8 Oct 92 13:27:10 GMT
Followup-To: rec.aquaria


	Help...

	I have a small coral, that is similar to a Euphyllia picteti, but has a smaller oral disk, and more tentacles, which are brown with green tips.
	It is currently not well at all, all the tentacles are withdrawn, showing the ridges of it's skeleton, and it appears to have a mass of very small beige coloured worm-like things in it's centre.
	Can any one tell me if this is part of the coral, or (as I suspect) some sort of parasite.
	If it is a parasitic infestation, how do I get rid of it.
	I think I read an article in FAMA or AFM, about fresh water baths for ridding corals of parasites, but I cannot find the article anywhere (I wish I had some sort of index to my magazines).
	If anyone can point me to this article, or tell me another way to rid mycoral of it's problem.
	I have tried water changes, moving it to higher and lower intensity lighting areas, and the pH is good and there is very little nitrite (<0.25), and that is all I could think of.
	
	Any help at all would be greatly appreciated, as I have already lost one section of this coral, and do not wish to lose the rest.

	Thanks very much in advance...

	Ross Bennetts...

		rbennet1@neumann.une.edu.au


Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: ig30@vaxb.acs.unt.edu
Subject: Question on Daphnia and Grindal worms
Organization: University of North Texas
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1992 03:47:08 GMT

Does anyone know which species of Daphnia is larger, Daphnia Magna or Daphnia
Pulex? Also, is culturing Grindal worms easy?. After reading Oleg's article on
livefood I am concidering giving it a shot. Any information would be
greately appreciated.



Ruvan Nanayakkara
IG30@VAXB.ACS.UNT.EDU
From: jjschm@bb1t.monsanto.com
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: [M]Protein Skimmers
Date: 14 Oct 92 17:28:26 CST
Organization: Monsanto Company, St. Louis, MO

I had this idea recenlty when discussing protein skimmers with a friend and I'm
curious to see what the netwisdom thinks.  Basically, we were talking about all
the benefits of using protein skimmers and tanks that operate on little else
besides a huge skimmer. Would it be even more efficient if instead of one large
skimmer using smaller skimmers connected in series.  I was thinking of a design
using alternating current and counter-current flow against air stones in each
chamber.   This would be alot easier to explain with a graphic but my ascii
skills stink.  The water would enter and be repeatedly skimmed, essentially
becoming cleaner at each step.  This could be built as one unit and wouldn't
require alot of vertical space.  The scum at each step could be pooled into one
drain, perhaps as a slanted top that drained into a catch tray.  

Well what do you think?  Is it worth it? Is there some major design flaw I'm
missing?  Any input or thoughts would be appreciated.  (maybe there's already
something like this).

			Jon
********************************************
Jon J. Schmuke  jjschm@ccmail.monsanto.com
********************************************

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Single Species Tanks
Date: 10 Oct 92 04:31:40 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)

In article <wood-smithc.24.0@vaxb.gbus.virginia.edu> wood-smithc@vaxb.gbus.virginia.edu (Chrissi Wood-Smith) writes:
>Plus they are live bearers and I personnally 
>enjoy being a "mom" to a bunch of cuties. They grow fast and are so tiny to 
>start with.

If you do things right, all fish spawn.  Barbs are not very different from
all other schooling fish and tiger barbs are not tremendously difficult fish
to breed. 
-- 
Oleg Kiselev at home			...use the header to find the path
From: mwerling@snoopy.umd.edu (Michael T. Werling)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Boret Heaters
Date: 8 Oct 92 15:12:22 GMT
Organization: University of Maryland, College Park

In article <BvsBus.HMF@news.cso.uiuc.edu> ffujita@s.psych.uiuc.edu (Frank Fujita) writes:
>Along a related note, does anybody know where to buy <25w heaters?  My
>wife loves bettas and I can't have them in my tanks, and winter is
>comming.  I've heard that a 25W is about 5 times too big for a 2 gallon
>tank.  So, where are the microheaters?
>Frank Fujita


I use an incandescant(sp?) light bulb.  It keeps the water warm, but the only
way of controlling the temp. is by moving the light a distance away.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria,pnw.forsale
From: rabbits@byron.u.washington.edu (Adolf Maas)
Subject: pH Meter for sale
Reply-To: rabbits@u.washington.edu
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 23:22:26 GMT


Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: reynold@binah.cc.brandeis.edu ("Susan Reynold (w/out the s)")
Subject: Re: Tank Decor
Reply-To: reynold@binah.cc.brandeis.edu
Organization: Brandeis University
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 17:40:42 GMT

Well, I have children. 
So I can blame my treasure chest on them.

Yeah, that's right, I bought it for the kids! 
:-)

Susan
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: kjackson@cix.compulink.co.uk (Keith Jackson)
Subject: Re: Other fish suggestions for a DISCUS tank
Reply-To: kjackson@cix.compulink.co.uk
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1992 12:37:32 +0000

>
>I have a 37 gal discus tank with 2 4" discus and a 2" baby discus living in 
>it.  I have 3 Kohli loaches and 3 itty bitty frogs.  My discus tend to hide, 
>which bugs me, but I figure as they get older they won't be so shy. 
>Supposedly they really wig out if you put other fish with  them, though I 
>have heard people suggest Angels.  My angels are in a 55 gal.  I was afraid 
>to upset the discus -- I haven't had much experience with this fish, but 
>I've researched my butt off!!

NO! Not Angels with discus, *please*. Angels are more dominant than discus
and can prevent the discus from feeding unless the tank is very large. They
can also tolerate parasites to a greater degree than discus so you run the
risk of cross-infection.

I found the best thing with discus is to make them feel at home in the 
tank. They are said to live in areas where hiding places are plentiful so
they will naturally spook easily. What you need are the indicators that all
is well - dither fish. Buy a dozen small tetras, neons or harlequins, say,
and let them shoal in the tank. The discus will assume that all is well 
because the small fish are behaving normally.

Sounds ridiculous? Maybe, but I had this problem and that cured it. The 
really silly thing is that I have a pair of 4 inch wild-caught greens and
they have no fear at all. They spend a lot of their time watching US
watching them! Who says fish are stupid?


      **********************************************************
      * Keith Jackson - kjackson@cix.compulink.co.uk           *
      *               - 2:250/413.4@fidonet.org                *
      *               -90:104/109.0@nest.ftn                   *
      **********************************************************
      *            Rock testing is a smashing job.             *
      **********************************************************
From: awhj@vax5.cit.cornell.edu (Tom Fredericks)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Fastest Fish??
Date: 16 Oct 92 12:34:16 EDT
Distribution: rec
Organization: Cornell University

In article <srh3.719214247@Ra.MsState.Edu>,
srh3@Ra.MsState.Edu (Steven R. Hollis) writes: 
>      I always learned that the Mako shark was the fastes (ok in the strict sense
> of the word they aren't fish)     wouldn't want one on me when I'm a few yards from sho

Oh sure they are.  (Class Chondrichthyes = cartilaginous fishes)
                vs: Class Osteicthyes    = bony fishes

- Tom Fredericks


Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: jareed@rodan.acs.syr.edu (Judith Ann Reed)
Subject: Tank Decor, was Re: Single Species Tanks
Organization: Syracuse University
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 92 08:48:23 EDT

In article <1992Oct10.044525.3080@netcom.com> oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev) writes:
>
>You must have never seen a killifish in full spawning garb.  Or a school of
>breeder-size and breeder-quality tiger barbs.  Or a pair of cichlids
>guarding their nest. And so on.  Many reef fish are indeed quite beautiful,
>but don't knock fresh water fish.  There is plenty of gems among them once
>you learn to see past the plastic plants, bubbling treasure chests, painted
>glass fish,  veil-tail oscars, pearscale angels, albino tiger barbs, and 
>other fluff.  

I feel like a pariah, an tropical fish hobbyist alien, but I'm going to 
say this anyway. There are actually some of us out here who yearn for 
bobbing skeletons, diving dogs, rocking pirate ships, walls of bubbles! 
(shock, horror!!!!!!) My fondest dream is to someday have a large tank, with
brilliantly colored gravel, lots of bubbling moving toys, and some gaudy,
graceful goldfish to highlight it all. Maybe some flourescent plants too.
I once had an office tank filled with the flourescent plants, 29 gallon,
royal blue gravel, with neons, and various other community fish, and 
everyone loved it - it was bright and fun to watch. I will bow to aquatic
"political correctness" enough to contend that I don't buy painted glassfish, 
but that is about the only constraint I'll admit to. I'm getting ready to 
convert my 29 gal back into this kind of tank, and get 2 or 3 fancy goldfish.
Am I really the only 
one, or are there other secret decoration lovers out there? Stand up and
be counted!!! Why do you think they make all that stuff, anyway? It's because 
they know we'll love it!!!! Reply, here or offline if you are too embarrassed,
and tell us about your dream tank!!!!! 


Judith Reed, aquarist from Alpha Centauri!!!
jareed@rodan.acs.syr.edu
From: scol@scottsdale.az.stratus.com (Scott Colbath)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: [F] Time to clean the gravel???
Date: 9 Oct 92 15:08:59 GMT


Well, it's been exactly one month since I set up my 29 gallon tank. The cycling  
of the tank has gone as follows..Through week two, the water stayed low in both  
ammonia and nitrites (this is all I am testing for). Week three, the ammonia  
and nitrites started to rise. Ammonia at about .4 or 4 ppm I forget if there is  
a decimal point there, and nitrites at about .25 ppm. This last week I have  
seen the ammonia drop to nothing and the nitrites rise way up to the hazardous  
level on the chart. Does this sound like a normal cycling of a tank? Should I  
clean the gravel and do a 10% or more water change? I am thinking it's about  
time for that. I am getting psyched to go pick out some more fish and start  
some plants, but want those nitrites to drop first.
--
**********************************************************
Scott Colbath
Stratus Computer
Phoenix, Az.  (602)852-3106
Internet:scott_colbath@az.stratus.com
**********************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: ds0007@medtronic.COM (Dale Skiba)
Subject: Re: otocinclus (sp?) in trouble
Organization: Medtronic, Inc.
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 13:07:14 GMT

George Booth (booth@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM) wrote:
: In rec.aquaria, jays@cup.hp.com (Jay Schudel) writes:
: 
:     I have a question, last night I noticed my otos trying to attach themselves to
:     the side of my other fishes.  Is this standard behavior once the algae is
:     mostly gone?
: 
: I think there may be two kinds of ottos - we had one group we bought that 
: seemed to like fish slime coats instead of algae.  If I remember right,
: they seemed to have a larger, darker tail spot than the kind we normally
: see. 
: 
: What do to about "Attack Ottos"?  We removed them from the tank and 
: humanely destroyed them.  We got the deep fryer out, set it to about 
: 450 F and dropped the little suckers in.  Voila - Otto Crisps. 
: 
: :-)
: -------
: George

I have used ottos to control algae for the past 2 years.  The following
things have been observed about them:

(1) If the tank runs out of algae, the ottos attack your fish.

    To get around this, you can rotate your ottos between tanks.
    Ottos are very hardy, so they do not seem to mind abrupt tank
    transfers.  When all your tanks are clean, you can put your
    ottos in a bucket of tankwater and put them to work cleaning
    various rise tubes, airline tubing, algae covered covers.
    They usually remove algae much better than you can! I have
    some spare aquarium parts so I can quickly swap them with 
    clean parts.  It seems to bother the fish alot less that way. 
    It also provides food for your ottos.

(2) 10 percent of newly purchased ottos like to atack your fish no
    matter what you do.  These otos have to be destroyed.  :-(

(3) As ottos get larger, they sometimes decide to switch their
    diet from algae to fish slime, even when there is algae in
    the tank to eat.

(4) ottos are cheap.  3 ottos can completely clean a dirty tank
    in one week.  This saves you many hours of labor, so even if
    you have to destroy them after a few months, they are worth
    their expense because of the cleaning they do for you.

--
Dale Skiba
From: hodgeman@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (William Hodgeman Jr)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: (F) Caecilian Worms
Date: 16 Oct 1992 18:41:12 GMT
Organization: Computing Services Division, University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
Distribution: na
NNTP-Posting-Host: 129.89.7.4


Can anyone tell me about Caecilian worms?  I've had one for about 8 months
in my 58 gal. freshwater tank.  It is now about 18 inches long, 1 inch in
diameter.  How long do they live?  What is their maximum size.  Can you
sex them?  Any other information would be appreciated.
                                           Thank you
Hodgeman@csd4.csd.uwm.edu
From: frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: News on discus and tail rot
Date: 13 Oct 92 15:15:41 GMT
Article-I.D.: cs.1992Oct13.151541.22709
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5

weka@polari.online.com wrote:
:  As I heard nothing from the net on the discus, tail rot problem I added
: tetracycaline.  They really freaked out-and when i put my hand in there,
: my open cuts
: stung.  I called The Fish Store in Seattle and was told that discus are 
: resistant to the drug anymore due to overuse, and because of the other effects
: to do a 50% water change and go to a different drug.  Any opinions?

I have two opinions.  First, I think you should limit your lines
to 60 characters, for those of us with 80 character screens/windows.
Second, I think you are foolish to put your hand into a fish tank
with open cuts, especially when you know that there are diseases
in it.

--
"They thought to use and shame me but I win out by nature, because a true
freak cannot be made.  A true freak must be born." - Geek Love

Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: srh3@Ra.MsState.Edu (Steven R. Hollis)
Subject: Re: Fastest Fish??
Organization: Mississippi State University
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 05:44:07 GMT

     I always learned that the Mako shark was the fastes (ok in the strict sense
of the word they aren't fish)     wouldn't want one on me when I'm a few yards from shore


--
============================================================================
Steve Hollis---Your friendly          |  "What for you say you monkey, when
neighborhood zoology major/lit minor  |   you got little powder puff tail
srh3@ra.msstate.edu                   |   like rabbit----RABBIT?"
From: scol@scottsdale.az.stratus.com (Scott Colbath)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [F] Time to clean the gravel???
Date: 13 Oct 92 13:16:53 GMT

In article <7104@transfer.stratus.com> scol@scottsdale.az.stratus.com  I  
wrote... 
> Well, it's been exactly one month since I set up my 29 gallon tank. Bla bla  
bla.

After all this. I had my Marble Molly die on me for no apparent reason This  
past Saturday morning, and I noticed my Silver Molly had ick. I was totally  
bummed. The Marble was my favorite fish. I gave the Marble the whirlpool  
funeral and treated the tank with Triple Sulfa. The Silver Molly has started  
clearing up but is not quite the same as before getting ick. 

In addition, my Black Tetra is not eating and is staying at the mid-point and  
the bottom of the tank. I think he will be next to go. The nitrites are still  
waaaay up there. Would testing for nitrates now be a smart thing to do? This  
would at least let me know if the cycle is continuing I suppose. Another  
thought I had was to move the Tetra to a 1.5 gallon tank where I have a Betta  
(unless they would not get along of course, this I don't know). The Betta's  
tank appears fairly healthy and coming to the end of it's cycle. I figure that  
the better water would help the Tetra. My other five fish all seem healthy.

Bummed and confused =8^(


--
**********************************************************
Scott Colbath
Stratus Computer
Phoenix, Az.  (602)852-3106
Internet:scott_colbath@az.stratus.com
"I'm all ears." Ross Perot 10/92
**********************************************************
From: mojo@reed.edu (it's alright ma, I'm only bleeding)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: (F) Has anybody kept brook lampreys?
Date: 17 Oct 92 01:20:07 GMT
Article-I.D.: reed.1992Oct17.012007.16206
Organization: rarely


The subject line says it all...a friend of mine has bestowed upon me a 5-6"
brook lamprey (I don't know the Latin name) which he found in a stream; I
know it wants cold, fairly neutral water, and it seems to eat flake food.
I'm just curious if anyone has actually kept one of these successfully, and
if so, what I should know.

Thanks

	NT
-- 
!@*#&^@#&*^@(!$%(*@&!$^%&*)@!#)!@$#^_!@*)%!@($&^%#@*)$&^#!@&*)$^&*#^$)*&^$*)!*
@ "I kilt the john!"  -Fritz the Cat   Nathan Tenny  mojo@reed.edu or        &
% "You should avoid yourself." -/usr/games/insult   tenny@euclid.uoregon.edu \
^@(#&*@_[]@)#(&*@}@)#&&*(#!)_~~@(!#*&}+@#+&#@(()                             [
From: mstephens.520@postman.gsfc.nasa.gov (mark stephens)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Big Air Pumps
Date: 15 Oct 92 19:46:41 GMT
Organization: nasa/gsfc

What about the Wisa's?  Does anybody have experience with them for quality,
noise and strength?  They are so expensive they must be good... right!?

    mark


[....]
> 
> Hope this helps you pick a pump system. I've wondered what I would
> do to get more air. Howard Rebel at Hp was tinkering with an
> emission control air pump and 1/4 horse motor (200W ++ ?).
From: steve@celia.UUCP (Steve Tyree)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: (M) help: very sick corals.
Date: 8 Oct 92 23:48:22 GMT
Reply-To: celia!steve@usc.edu (Steve Tyree)
Organization: Rhythm & Hues, Inc., Hollywood

In article <1b26gmINNmni@fido.asd.sgi.com> thk@tyres.asd.sgi.com (Tom Kong) writes:
->Some of my coral are dying, but I can figure out why.  Any
->help is appreciated.
->
->By end of August, all the corals are back to very healthy looking state,
->and the elegance inflated to larger than I've ever seen before.  There
->was a big hair algae bloom and some slime algae.  Did a 5 day dose of Maracyn, slime algae went away,
->did a 10% water change after the treatment.  During and after the treatment,
->the corals look unstressed, a coral banded shrimp died shortly after the
->treatment.

 Check the ingredients listed for maracyn. Does it contain a chlorine type
chemical ? Do you corals appear whiter in color ?

->From 9/5 to now, the hammer and the elegance started inflating less
->and less, and are now mostly deflated showing only the skeleton.
->Meanwhile the frogspawn and goniopora remain healthy looking.
->The goniopora actually seems to have generated many new polyps.  All this
->time water condition and temperature were unchanged.  It is interesting
->to note that my freshly mixed water has about 3mg/L NO3, while the
->tank water consistently measured less, yet all corals (especially goniopora)
->seem happier right after a water change.  Can it be that they require
->NO3?  I moved the elegance closer to the bottom of the tank yesterday,
->and it seems to be less deflated, can it be suffering from UV burn or
->just too much light?

 Goniporia will always expand further out after a water change. I havent
figured out why yet but its not due to nitrte addition. Its due to re-
plenishing a trace element or cleaner water. Your latest scenario seem-
to start with your slime algae problem. Fix what ever is causing the 
slime algae to appear. Dont treat the symptom. Look for ditrietus co-
llections or possibly bad skimmer airstones or weak skimmer air pump.
You might be overfeeding also. How much foam is being produced by the
skimmers ?

->How long do corals stay alive in home tanks anyways?

 My original gonipora is 19 months old and just as bright green as the
day it was installed. It expands out as far as the surrounding reef rock
will let it. A baby gonipora polyp ball was harvested from this coral and 
the baby is doing fine and is 6 months old. I had an accident where a red
Favites sp. flipped over on top of the baby gonipora sp. but the little one
covered itself in slime mucus for protection. The slime was removed by hand
by me when I discovered the situation in the morning. After 5 days of little
polyp expansion it is expanding out like normal.

 Steve Tyree - Reef Breeder
From: booth@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (George Booth)
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 19:46:26 GMT
Subject: Re: cost of Dupla heating system
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO