From: cmb@calmasd.prime.com
Newsgroups: alt.guitar
Subject: Re: Guitar Refinishing (Suggestions)
Date: 3 Sep 92 18:45:19 GMT
Organization: Computervision - A Division of Prime Computer

In article <1992Sep1.173030.14214@news.unomaha.edu>, fishead@cwis.unomaha.edu (David L. Britton) writes:
> I need suggestions on how to refinish a guitar (i.e. staining, painting, air
> brushing, etc.)  
> 
> Any tips on the subject would be greatly appreciated.


I've had good results without purchasing professional paint equipment.  
I recently did a Strat for a fellow who wanted a satin stain finish.  
First the wood needs to be sanded properly.  I first stained with Minwax 
Red Mahogany and then sanded again using 400 grit wet-or-dry paper.  I 
then put on a second, denser, coat of the red and let it sit overnight...
longer if possible.  I created a violin type, subtle, sunburst by doing the 
edges with a walnut color stain and following with the red while the darker
color is still wet.  After this has dried, I sand in (400 wet-or-dry) Watco 
walnut colored oil.  This is a polymerizing oil that raises the grain and 
hardens as it dries.  I sand it in because the fine residue creates a slurry 
that fills the pores of the wood.  This needs 24 hours to dry.  Then sand
again.  I reapply a similar coat of Watco and add some of the red stain if
needed to work the color.  Follow by hand rubbing the Watco in--the warmth of 
your hands helps the oil permeate the wood.  Wipe off all the excess.  When
fully dry, the Watco and rubbing have created a glass-like sheen and texture. 
The final procedure is the use of Bison brand staining waxes.  I have four 
colors, and I use these to shade and highlight the surface while adding depth
to the finish.  

It's a lot of elbow work!  The results are really nice, but it is not the 
high gloss type finish that most people want.  

If you want the standard, high gloss paint finish, you'll want to use 
laquer (that's what's used for most of the Gibsons and Fenders et al.). 
I just use spray cans, because I don't have a compressor.  I just finished 
doing a 1960 Strat in black.  It was hard and very laborious, but turned out 
great.  Her's a hint...you need NITROCELLULOSE laquer; it's increasingly hard 
to get (an ingredient of gun powder!).  In fact I couldn't find any...so after 
priming, I used ACRYLIC laquer.  The difference is that nitrocellulose dries 
hard and "chips" away, whereas acrylic takes FOREVER to dry and it "peels".  
I sprayed about three coats at a time letting each dry to flashing (dry to
touch) or about 15 minutes between coats.  Then I let them dry 24 hrs. Then 
sand...using 400 grit wet-or-dry AND a sanding block (or your fingers will 
leave grooves).  This goes on for days, until 16-20 coats have built up.  The 
next step is to let it "cure"-- 4 weeks to harden, AT LEAST, for the acrylic 
finish.  Shooting two coats of clear nitrocellulose would quicken the process, 
and I recommend that if you can find it.  The real work here is in the sanding. 
After building a perfect flat painted surface using the 400 grit, you then
follow with 600 grit (and water or Naptha to lubricate.). Finally you'll use 
two grades of polishing compound and...Wallah!...you'll swear you'll NEVER do 
this again! -- turns out great though!  Be sure and check out Dan Erlewine's 
article on Advanced Finishes in Guitar Player mag. Nov. 1988, p. 136., and 
good luck!

Mark Bonney
   

that I use to