HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: egreen@east.sun.com (Ed Green - Pixel Cruncher)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Inspection report ==> $back? (how many
Date: 13 Oct 1992 16:32:12 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, RTP, NC
Distribution: world
Reply-To: egreen@east.sun.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: laser.east.sun.com

In article 13OCT199209492424@watson.bms.com, bullock@watson.bms.com (JOAN BULLOCK) writes:
>
>Last month I sold my 20-year-old house.  The inspection report read something
>like yours.  It sounded like I lived in a _dump_.  However, the report was 
>merely reflecting the age of the house.  

I got a professional inspection of my 12 year old house.  I
intentionally chose an inspector my attorney warned had scared off
buyers because he was so picky.  He came up with a 13 page report, on a
house that was basically in pretty good shape.  I gave a copy to the
seller, then pointed out the two items that I considered serious.  He
agreed to fix them quickly and with no argument.  I believe that the
sheer extent of defects in the report, and my obvious reasonableness in
dismissing the majority of them, contributed to that decision.  I
estimate the cost of the repairs exceeded the price of the inspection.

>If the buyers had made a lower offer based on
>the inspection, I would have taken it as an indication of their lack of
>interest in the house and refused and put the house back on the market.

And the next buyers would get an inspection and lowered their offer,
and the next, and the next, and you would still own the house.

>I would respectfully suggest that if you don't want 40-year-old house
>problems you should entertain looking for something much newer.

You sound like you took the report personally.  An over-thorough
inspection report, if there is such a thing, is a tool to use to
negotiate a more advantagious position in a large financial
transaction.  Period.  That's all it is.  It is not an insult to the
seller, and if the seller takes it that way, they are overly sensitive
and a poor businessperson.

>I hope that seeing things from the sellers point of view will help in your
>decision.

The ONLY value in "seeing things from the sellers point of view" is in
the consideration of various negotiating strategies.  While not
necessarily adversarial, the negotiation is certainly competative.  In
buying an older house in need of immediate or not-too-distant future
repairs, a professional inspection report can prove a valuable tool in
gaining a better price or other concessions.

---
Ed Green, former Ninjaite |I was drinking last night with a biker,
  Ed.Green@East.Sun.COM   |and I showed him a picture of you.  I said,
DoD #0111  (919)460-8302  |"Go on, get to know her, you'll like her!"
 (The Grateful Dead) -->  |It seemed like the least I could do...

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: sns@bondi.jpl.nasa.gov (Sam Southard)
Subject: Re: Building near property line
Organization: SAR Systems Development & Processing, JPL
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 20:44:28 GMT

In article <MACRAKIS.92Oct12144331@lakatos.osf.org> macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis) writes:
>In article <2090018@hpkslx.mayfield.HP.COM> lou@hpkslx.mayfield.HP.COM (Lou Kvitek) writes:
>   Your neighbor can still build and apply for something called a "variance".
>Here (Cambridge, Mass.), a variance must be approved by a public
>hearing of a city Board.  Public notice of the hearing is given in the
>newspaper, and abutters (and abutters of abutters) are sent individual
>notices.  They almost NEVER grant variances if an abutter objects.

In Pasadena, they also want you to be able to show that you can't do it some
other way and stay within the usual code.  For example, on my lot I have a
game room I'm putting on permit which comes right up against the setbacks.
I want to add a small central heater/air conditioner (I like thermostats and
I don't like in-wall/window units - besides an in-wall unit would require
another revision in the plans, which would have to be approved by the building
department).

At first I though I'd try to use the space between my wall and the property
line to place the condenser.  I quickly found out that the setbacks did not
allow this, and that there was such a thing called a variance.  I went around
talking to all the neighbors to make sure they wouldn't have a problem with it
(I'm fortunate to have all nice neighbors and am on fairly good terms with
them).  There were no problems, so I was about to submit the hefty non-
refundable fee to set up things to get the variance.

Fortunatly, I had another talk with the building inspector, who informed me
that the variance almost certainly would not be granted if I could put the
condenser elsewhere.  In my case the only possible elsewhere would be in a
plainly visible part of my back yard, which would be very intrusive in the
landscaping I've planned.  However, it was still possible, so the variance
would not have been granted.  It didn't matter that all the people (me and my
neighbors) were perfectly happy with the variance.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: eliot@chutney.rtp.dg.com (Topher Eliot)
Subject: Re: Sears tools (was Electric Drill Recommendation)
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 92 20:43:03 GMT
Reply-To: eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com
Organization: Data General Corporation, Research Triangle Park, NC

I had a Sears circular saw, it shrieked like a banshee and shot chips straight
up into my face.  I GAVE it away and bought a Porter-Cable Sawboss.  Much
nicer.

-- 
Topher Eliot             Data General DG/UX Systems Administration Development
(919) 248-6371                                             eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com
Obviously, I speak for myself, not for DG.
misc.consumers.house archivist.  Send mail to house-archive@dg-rtp.dg.com
"To arms, to arms!  The redcoats are coming!
One arm, one arm, the fatcoats are coming!"	-- Tommy, age 4.
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Tree Climbing
Date: 9 Oct 92 03:05:30 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <uNTasB1w161w@cdthq.UUCP> gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston) writes:
>egreen@east.sun.com (Ed Green - Pixel Cruncher) writes:

>> Where can I get those spikes you strap on your boots, to climb
>> telephone poles and pine trees?  Is there a mail-order supply for
>> lumberjack type stuff?  I haven't been able to find anything local, but
>> if somebody can point me to a place in the Raleigh/Durham area, I'd
>> appreciate it.

>> I have a very tall, very dead, pine, very close to my house.  I've had
>> one estimate for $250 to take it down, PLUS $100 to haul it off!

>That really doesn't sound unreasonable, particularly if you make
>disposal arrangements yourself. You'd probably spend $150 on the
>spikes, anyway...

That's not that unreasonable a price - at least 'round here.

If it's possible that the tree might fall on power lines, you can
often get your local power authority to remove it free.  Ontario
Hydro does, for example.

I've done some tree removal around a cottage (where it was on the wrong
side for the power lines ;-)

The technique that we worked out was to put a ladder against the tree,
and drive a big spike into the trunk, around 15-20 feet up - facing
*away* from the direction you want to drop the tree.  Loop the
loose end of a cable or chain puller ("come-along") around the trunk over the
spike.  Take the crank end of the come-along, and do the same trick in
close to the ground on a tree facing towards the way you want to drop
the tree.

Crank up the come-along until it's taut or beyond - don't pull
so hard as to pull the tree over, but hard enough to make it obvious
which way it's going to go.  Then saw the tree with a chain
saw in the normal fashion.

Works great.  Even against lean.  As long as it ain't a huge tree.

May increase the likelyhood of kickback.  So don't stand behind the
tree - and stay clear of the cable.

With a "very dead" tree, you may pull it over with the come-along.
Have an escape route, and watch overhead (rotten birch has a tendency
to fall in 10 foot chunks).

We dropped 10" 60-70' birch and 12" 60' maple this way.

Probably safer to have a really long cable...
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
From: AMILLSAP@cmsa.gmr.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: How about corded power (drywall) screwdrivers?
Date: 9 Oct 92 11:29:48 GMT
Organization: GM Research Labs

In article <1992Oct8.165708.20350@nntpd2.cxo.dec.com>
marks@ssdevo.enet.dec.com (Randy Marks) writes:

>
>
>In article <1992Oct7.202948.16890@philabs.philips.com>, mja@philabs.philips.com(Michael Amato) writes...
>>
>>Now that a lot of bandwidth has been used up on drill recomendations, I need a
stuff deleted

>>
>>Now Makita makes what they call a drywall screwdriver Mod# 6820V, 0-4000rpm,
>>variable speed, reversible, and weighs 3.0lbs. It is rated at 5.2 amps.
>>
>>
>

 more stuff deleted

>As far as I can tell, the more versatile tool is the one with a lower max RPM.
>I say this because you trade off torque for driving speed.  Thus, the
>4000 RPM tool will drive drywall screws very fast, but probably not
>have adequate torque for driving 3" deck screws without pilot holes.

I don't know about versatility, but I just finished installing 65 sheets of
Wolmanized tongue and groove (in an 1800 sq ft wood basement) and drove 30
pounds (about 4500) of 3" galvanized screws using the model 6820V.  The joists
were very hard - fdn treated Southern Yellow Pine.  The high torque had a
much more lasting effect on my forearm than my drill.

Perhaps it would have been easier with the lower RPM tool.  I honestly don't
know.  However, unless you have screws which won't snap or "cam out"
the slots on the head, additional torque is of little value.   In my recent
experience, I didn't have a single case where the drill stopped, but I did
mess up a few screw heads.  I was working pretty fast, though, and it could
have been sloppiness on my part, or just a worn bit.  I used 10 bits for the
job (most of which are still useable for a less demanding job).

Anyway, this is just one experience - your mileage may vary.  I agree with
the torque argument, I'm just not sure where the "breaking point" of the
higher RPM tool is.

>The 2500 RPM tool will drive drywall screws a bit slower, but have
>plenty of torque for the 3" deck screws.
>
>I was faced with the same decision last summer (building a deck, with
>some drywall hanging work anticipated in the future).  I opted for the
>lower RPM tool and have not regretted it.  The lower RPM tools seem to

Perhaps a wise decision.

>cost more than the higher RPM tools.
From: macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Suggestions for bathroom wall material
Date: 13 Oct 92 14:41:54 GMT
	<1992Oct13.090002.1@kean.ucs.mun.ca>
Organization: OSF Research Institute

In article <1992Oct10.032744.25506@ee.eng.ohio-state.edu>,
sca@dopey.eng.ohio-state.edu (Stan Ahalt) writes:

   Does anyone have suggestions for a wall material that is relatively
   moisture resistant and easy to work with?  Drywall covered with ceramic
   tile is not an option because of the expense.  Ventilation is quite poor
   in the room, so moisture resistance must be quite good - so normal
   drywall seems inappropriate.  Is "blue-board" (moisture resistant
   drywall - I think) a viable option.

You should improve ventilation whatever you do.  The moisture is bad for
the house, so vent it to the exterior.

As for wall materials, blueboard is NOT moisture-resistant drywall: it is
drywall with a special paper surface that plaster will stick to well
(because it is in fact porous and rough).  Blueboard with skim-coat plaster
is an excellent solution for a bathroom, but expensive (check out the
prices of plasterers: this is not a do-it-yourself operation).  There are
various moisture-resistant drywall materials; check with your lumberyard.
One trick is not to take them all the way down to the floor (leave 1/4"
gap), and fill the gap with caulk backing.  Then caulk, install baseboard,
and caulk again.

Be sure also to use good quality primer and paint.  For a bathroom, you
should be sure to use a scrubbable semi-gloss or high-gloss paint.  Many
painters prefer alkyd (oil) for this rather than latex, but best-quality
latex should probably be just as good.

Good luck.

	-s
From: ark@alice.att.com (Andrew Koenig)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Layoff Mortgage Insurance
Keywords: mortgage
Date: 13 Oct 92 12:52:16 GMT
Article-I.D.: alice.23869
Reply-To: ark@alice.UUCP ()
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories, Murray Hill NJ

In article <53ft03m7a9=200@amdahl.uts.amdahl.com> cole@uts.amdahl.com (William Cole) writes:

> I know that several real estate companies (e.g. Prudential)
> offer thru them a plan where an insurance company will cover
> your mortgage payments for upto 1 year if you buy a house 
> and are layed off due the the economy.

That may not be all that useful.

When companies lay people off, they often offer incentives for people
to resign `voluntarily' instead of being laid off.  You know, something
like `If you resign irrevocably, in writing, effective December 31,
we won't lay you off effective November 1.'  If you left `voluntarily,'
you can't collect unemployment, so the company doesn't have to pay as
much -- or something like that.

Now, suppose that does happen.  Will your mortgage insurance cover you?
It might be worth finding out.
-- 
				--Andrew Koenig
				  ark@europa.att.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: dtschett@scott.skidmore.edu (donna tschetter)
Subject: Removing glued-to-floor carpet!
Organization: Skidmore College, Saratoga Springs NY
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 13:43:42 GMT

Has anyone had any experience with this terrible situation.  Just
moved into a house with older carpeting glued to older linoleum.
Need to remove carpeting and the backing has attached itself in a most
stubborn way to flooring!

HELP!  

Plan to replace current situation with tile floor!
From: rfradenb@bbn.com (Roger Fradenburgh)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Storing Firewood (Oak)
Date: 7 Oct 1992 12:51:34 GMT
Distribution: na
NNTP-Posting-Host: bbn.com

P.S. re. covering your now a few inches off the ground woodpile:
Do NOT enclose it completely in plastic sheeting.  By all means
put some on top to keep out the rain and snow, but leave the
pile's "sides" exposed to the open air.  I learned this the hard
way a few years ago.  I had pretty well mummified a stack of
oak with a plastic tarp - when it came time to haul some logs
indoors I was chagrined to discover that moisture in the wood
had condensed on the inside surface of the tarp, soaking the
logs in the topmost rows.  It was like a greenhouse under there.
I thought I'd "done good" by shielding every last log from every
possible drop of rain.  Wrong.  If the ends of a few logs are
dampened by rain it's no big deal.  They'll dry.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: sgrainge@memo.osf.org (Steven Grainger)
Subject: Steam pipes
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 13:58:31 GMT

Recently, I had the asbestos removed from my pipes in the
basement. Well, now that I've had all this wretched stuff removed
I have lots of uninsulated steam pipes. Any suggestions on what I
can use for insulation?

I have looked at the foam tubing but it can't handle steam pipe 
temperatures(212 degrees) and the 3" wide fiberglass rolls seem
impractical(I have lots of steam pipe to cover). Is there anything
out there that is like the foam tubes, can handle steam pipe 
temperatures and width of the pipes?

Thanks!
-- 

Steven Grainger          | I stalk the wild trout. 
Open Software Foundation |
11 Cambridge Center, MA  |
1 617 621 8894           | sgrainge@osf.org    uunet!osf!sgrainge
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: hints for cleaning levelor blinds
From: gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston)
Date: Wed, 07 Oct 92 19:02:25 CDT
Organization: Garys' Home for Obsolete Computers

leisner@eso.mc.xerox.com (Marty Leisner) writes:

> I have a number of the levelor horizontal blinds (with about 1/2" slats).
> 
> I'm cleaning them and its a slow process which takes a lot of elbow grease.
> 
> They have on them a thin layer of grime, so I can't vacuum them.
> 
> Any neat tricks?

Take them down, carry them outside, and use a scrubbrush and soapy
water to get them clean; rinse thoroughly with a hose. Blow dry with
an airhose if possible, then reinstall. 

Don't leave them unattended; stuff tends to get stolen from yards....

Gary Heston, at home...
gary@cdthq.uucp
From: tedb@hpcvra.cv.hp.com (Ted Beers)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Can't Stand the Heat in the Kitchen
Date: 13 Oct 92 18:11:39 GMT
Article-I.D.: hpcvra.25860030
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Corvallis, OR, USA


    In our house under construction, the heating people have placed the
    combined exhaust ductwork for our 80% efficiency gas furnace and gas
    water heater up through one corner of the pantry, like so:


		  	TOP VIEW


                  <------ 3' ------>

		  +---+--------------+  ^
		  |GAS|              |  |
		  +----              |  2'
		  |                  |  |
		  +- (pantry doors) -+  v

    The gas exhaust is channeled through an 8" circular metal duct with
    a 1" air space around it.  The pantry walls will be standard cabinet
    box material--1/2" or 3/4" wood.

    I'm a little worried about the heat from the exhaust so close to
    long-term food storage.  But perhaps the temperature of the exhaust
    is insignificant.  Can someone put my mind at ease regarding this
    unfortunate situation?  Or maybe there are steps I can take now to
    better insulate the ductwork from the cabinet--perhaps some sort of
    heat shield?

    Your suggestions are welcome.

				What Next,

				Ted Beers
From: un026217@wvnvms.wvnet.edu
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Porch foundation
Date: 15 Oct 92 04:23:16 GMT
Organization: West Virginia Network for Educational Telecomputing

Hi,

I am thinking about enclosing my porch. What can I do to
enforce the foundation so the drywall won't crack because
of weak foundation?

Thanks, Bo
From: tavares@danville (Jack Tavares)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Portsmouth NH TwnHse for Rent
Date: 15 Oct 92 14:36:22 GMT
Reply-To: tavares@ctron.com
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5



Portsmouth Townhouse for Rent.

Located in the Rockingham Hotel. Refurbished Distinctive 
TownHouse. 6 Rooms + loft.

3 Bedrooms, Living Room, Dining Room/Study
Eat In Kitchen. Addition bedroom possible in Loft.

2 Baths.

Cathedral Ceilings, 
Stained Glass Windows, 
Wood Stove.

In town location.
Parking.
Terrace on Roof of building.

Pool & security.

Must see!  $850/month rent

Available October 1

Call (603) 569-6618 evenings.
From: jkrishna@mti.sgi.com (Jay Krishna)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Outdoor heating gadgets
Date: 15 Oct 1992 15:45:27 GMT
Organization: Mips Technologies, Inc.; Mountain View, California
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: arctic.mti.sgi.com
Originator: jkrishna@arctic.mti.sgi.com

Hi,

I am wondering if anybody has used the Weber outdoor fireplace contraption? If
so, I'd appreciate hearing your comments on it.

On a more general note, I'd like to know what options one has in an outdoor
heating device for our deck area in the back of the house. Are there places
where one could rent some hefty outdoor heating equipment for a night or so?
This is for having a comfortable outdoor party during the winter months.

Thanks,

-Jay
From: darrenl@natinst.com (Darren Lilie)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Can I put flexible laminate over already-laminated countertops?
Date: 7 Oct 1992 15:55:28 -0500
Organization: National Instruments, Austin, TX
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: eagle.natinst.com

I just bought a house and the kitchen countertops are laminated with a design
that looks like strips of wood.  I would like to change this to a solid color
like white or offwhite.  I have seen flexible laminate that you would stick or
glue onto a bare countertop(pressed wood, etc.) but I was wondering if I could
apply it to the existing laminate.  

I would appreciate any help.
Darren

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: nbull@access.digex.com (Nicholas Bull)
Subject: Inspection report ==> how many $ back?
Organization: Express Access Online Communications, Greenbelt, MD USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 22:58:26 GMT


Dear all,
 
We just had a home inspection.  Structural, electrical, and
plumbing all seem fine.  But, the roof is 17 years old and the
tiles (shingles ???) are getting fragile--they flex a little but
crack when bent back.  Some have been tacked back down with
nails.  The inspector says we'll be replacing in 3 years--maybe
$2000-3000?  The AC compressor is 12 years old and we couldn't
test it since the temperature is too low; the glass-lined gas
water heater is 20; the stove is probably original (37 years
old); the dishwasher is probably 20; the furnace is original but
had its blower replaced somewhere along the way--heat exhanger
has some surface rust but no cracks (the furnace is very dirty
though, since the tenants didn't change the filter since it was
cleaned a year ago). So, to summarize, there are a lot of major
appliances that could be expected to die within the next 3 years
but are currently working.  The comparable prices are $200K (but
on a busier street), $210K (twice), $220K (but with more updated
kitchen stuff), and $230K (but with a garage and in-law apartment
w/kitchen).  Our offer was $220 (under some pressure from a
competing contract).  How much do you figure we should ask for
back, for all the stuff that might be likely to die soon (or
should we just walk)?
 
Thanks,

Nick
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: doshay@ursa.arc.nasa.gov (David Doshay)
Subject: Re: High Efficient Furnace Question
Organization: NASA-Ames Biocomputation Center
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 00:11:20 GMT

In article <BvroMC.1C4@fc.sde.hp.com>, gt@fc.sde.hp.com (George Tatge) writes:
|> Dominic Nguyen 4-6604 MRCE (nguyen@mr.med.ge.com) wrote:
|> : Could some one give me some comments on these high efficient furnaces:
|> : 	1. Bryant
|> : 	2. Carrier
|> : 	3. Lennox
|> : I need one that is about 92% efficiency and at about 100,000 Btu.
|> : Thanks!
|> : Dominic
|> 
|> I have a new Lennnox Pulse (93%).  It's great except for two things:
|> 
|> 1. Noise- the exhaust is LOUD- I've ordered an in-line muffler.
|> 2. Condensation- You need a way to get rid of the condensation from
|> the combusion chamber.
|> 


The condensation "problem" is unavoidable. ALL 90+% heaters get condensation
that must be pumped from the heater to somewhere else.

David		doshay@soma.arc.nasa.gov

The thought police insist I tell you:
my thoughts, not NASA's