HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: ross@tarski.tmc.edu (David Ross)
Subject: Re: connecting high power headunit to amp
Organization: University of Hawaii Mathematics Department
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 21:51:04 GMT

In article <1992Dec13.194940.15303@newstand.syr.edu> ravalent@mothra.syr.EDU (Bob Valentine) writes:
>In article <1992Dec12.001519.11519@news.Hawaii.Edu> ross@tarski.tmc.edu (David Ross) (that's me!) writes:

>>I have a moderate-power receiver (10 w/ch in 2 ch mode), and I want to
>>connect an old Alpine amp I have to the rear channel.
>
>   Wouldn't it be easier to buy the <$20 box that converts high level
>to low level?

I've only seen these that go to preamp-level; this I don't want, since
the Alpine preamp inputs are very nonstandard (they're not even Alpine
standard!).  I basically want to cut power only by a factor of about 2-3.
Someone suggested a Radio Shack book with plans for this, I think I'll
go get it.

- David

--
David Ross, Dept. of Math., Univ. of Hawaii at Manoa, Honolulu HI  96822
Internet: ross@math.hawaii.edu  -or- ross@tarski.math.hawaii.edu
Phone: 808-956-9949
Xref: sparky rec.audio.car:5371 rec.woodworking:8492
From: hhtra@usho72.hou281.chevron.com (T.M.Haddock)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car,rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Fix scratch in CD?
Date: 15 Dec 92 19:11:23 GMT
Organization: Chevron

In article <1gl21tINNjuu@iskut.ucs.ubc.ca>, daniel@redwood.ppc.ubc.ca (Daniel Ouellet) writes:
|> In article <1992Dec14.211743.7928@shearson.com>, tbigham@shearson.com (Tim Bigham) writes:
|>> In article <If_JRdS00YUoQRglIa@andrew.cmu.edu> Steve Anthony Nilsen <sn1k+@andrew.cmu.edu> writes:
|>>>I have just a small nick in a favorite CD that causes my car CD player to
|>>>mistrack one certain song.  The CD plays fine in home CD players, but it's
|>>>enough to confuse the one in my car.  Is there any way to slightly polish
|>>>this out?  It always mistracks about 50 seconds into the song and takes
|>>>like 20 more to get past the scratch unless I cue it ahead.  The nick is
|>>>really small, like the size of a fingernail clipping.  Is there something
|>>>I can use to fill it slightly?
|>>>
|>>>Steve
|> 				| 
|> The recording on a CD, if I remember correctly, is a series of tiny 
|> holes that are "read" by a laser beam. Remember that there is no
|> physical contact between the CD and the reading head.  Your CD 
|> mistracks because the digital information on the disk is damaged.
|> Even if you fill the crack, you will not restore the missing 
|> information. In fact, by doing so, you may even worsen the problem.
|> If you can't bear the CD as it is, try filling the crack and let us 
|> know what happened, but be aware that you may end up with a CD only
|> good for the garbage can :^)

 The disc has a series bumps/depressions that reflect the laser beam.
 The scratch may just be interferring with the reflection of the laser
 but the digital information may be unharmed.  Over on  rec.music.cd 
 there are several recommendations of mild polishes and such.  But, if 
 the scratch is really a gouge, filling probably won't work unless it
 is transparent.  Of course, if it's deep enough where the inner disc
 where the data is stored is damaged, forget it.  But, I can think of
 lots of uses for a bad CD that just tossing it - given the time of 
 year, a Christmas tree ornament comes readily to mind.  :)

 TRAVIS
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: jreiser@scott.skidmore.edu (Jason Reiser... Asleep)
Subject: Re: pioneer 6-disc magazines
Organization: Skidmore College, Saratoga Springs NY
Distribution: rec
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 23:57:01 GMT

"glen mead" <glen.mead@canrem.com> writes:
> cjm9321@hertz.njit.edu (The InfoMan) writes:
> 
> TI>	If the tuner has a aux in then you do not need an FM modulator.
> TI>All you need to do is to take the signal from the changer (provided it
> TI>is low-level) and connect it to the aux in. I assume when a wire is
> TI>plugged into the aux in the radio or whatever is playing turns off and
> TI>the aux in input is on.
> 
> Actually, the deck does have AUX ins but I was told that the CD changers
> had a DIN connector of some sort which was not compatible with the line
> level RCA jack AUX input on my friends deck.  Can the controllers be
> purchased for these changers cheaply (without the RF modulator)?
> 
> Glen Mead - RZ/RD 500 Owners Group
> ---
>  * Amiga-Reader V2.00B * 
> --
> Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario
> World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044

Usually, if you purchase an RF kit from a manufacturer, you end up
paying a lot less than you would for the separate components without
the modulator.  So, the easy thing to do is the buy the one with the
RF modulator in it, and bypass it internally to a pair of RCA outputs.
This is easy with all the ones I've worked with.

As for the cartridge compatibility issue, the 6 disk Pioneer is
different from the Clarion and from the Alpine 6's.  I can't think of
a 6 disk that is the same in the car audio market, though one probably
exists... maybe that old Blaupunct 2x6 disc...

				- Jason

-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------
\ Jason A. Reiser  \ Send E-Mail to jreiser@scott.skidmore.edu \
 \ Skidmore College \ Saratoga Springs, NY 12866 \ 518-581-6580 \  
  \ It's a new Ice Age!  Hooray!!  Sled City!  - Calvin & Hobbes \
Xref: sparky rec.audio.car:5367 rec.woodworking:8468
From: daniel@redwood.ppc.ubc.ca (Daniel Ouellet)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car,rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Fix scratch in CD?
Date: 15 Dec 1992 16:44:45 GMT
Organization: University of B.C. Pulp & Paper Centre
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: redwood.ppc.ubc.ca

In article <1992Dec14.211743.7928@shearson.com>, tbigham@shearson.com (Tim Bigham) writes:
|> In article <If_JRdS00YUoQRglIa@andrew.cmu.edu> Steve Anthony Nilsen <sn1k+@andrew.cmu.edu> writes:
|> >I have just a small nick in a favorite CD that causes my car CD player to
|> >mistrack one certain song.  The CD plays fine in home CD players, but it's
|> >enough to confuse the one in my car.  Is there any way to slightly polish
|> >this out?  It always mistracks about 50 seconds into the song and takes
|> >like 20 more to get past the scratch unless I cue it ahead.  The nick is really
|> >small, like the size of a fingernail clipping.  Is there something I can use to
|> >fill it slightly?
|> >
|> >Steve
				| 
The recording on a CD, if I remember correctly, is a series of tiny holes that are "read" by a laser
beam. Remember that there is no physical contact between the CD and the reading head.  Your
CD mistracks because the digital information on the disk is damaged. Even if you fill the crack,
you will not restore the missing information. In fact, by doing so, you may even worsen the problem.
If you can't bear the CD as it is, try filling the crack and let us know what happened, but be aware 
that you may end up with a CD only good for the garbage can :^)
-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Daniel Ouellet, Research Associate
Pulp and Paper Centre, University of British Columbia
2385 East Mall, Vancouver, BC, Canada V6T 1Z4
Tel:(604)822-8240   Fax:(604)822-8563   Email: daniel@ppc.ubc.ca
From: tam4@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (TODD A. MUCCILLI)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: DIN-sized CD player
Date: 18 Dec 92 15:37:32 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

I have installed a Sony XR-7070 in my 84 Toyota.  As many may know, the
original Toyota unit was a double-DIN unit, with both a stereo and an EQ/amp.
At the moment, I have the second DIN slot filled with a pocket purchased from
Toyota.  I am under the impression that the changer to be used with the 7070
is either still very expensive or is obsolete, to the point where no one
carries it any longer.  Is there any company that manufactures a DIN-sized CD
player (without tuner and amp) that can be somehow connected to this stereo?
Assuming there is, how would such a connection be made (FM modulator, through
the changer connector, etc.)?  And, as well, would purchasing one be cheaper
than purchasing the Sony changer (which is the issue here)?

If my idea seems impractical, does anyone know where to find the Sony changer
that works with the 7070 (cheaper than the $400-500 price I was quoted a while
back), or when the price will drop (as it is an outdated model)?

If at all possible, send replies via mail.

Thanks in advance,
Todd
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: demetri@cgrg.ohio-state.edu 
Subject: speaker connection
Organization: OSU Advanced Computing Center for the Arts and Design
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 16:27:06 GMT

I have a question... I found a good deal on a subwoofer.  I want to run it
off the two rear channels of my head unit. The rear output is 35 watts per
channel (rated) and the speaker can easily handle that much power.
Unfortunately, the sub is not a dual voice coil model.  My question is...
is there a way that I can wire both channels to this speaker without blowing
everything up?  What would be the effect on power output, etc. if I combine
left & right into one speaker.  The front output is rated at 15 watts per
channel and there is a common ground wire.  Does this mean that the rear
also has a common ground?  My father-in-law (who happens to be an
electronics engineer) said that if this is the case I should be able to wire
both channels to the speaker if I can make connection to ground with the
negative lead and use 8 ohm resistors on the positive leads.  ...I'm
probably misquoting him because he described this to me (just off the top of
his head) over the phone and I couldn't picture clearly in my mind what he
meant.  I don't want the expense of adding a bridgable amp or buying a more
expensive dual voice coil model - if I can avoid it.

-demetri

From: kirk@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Kirk Lindstrom)
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 16:08:38 GMT
Subject: Re: Can I run car stereo on battery charger?
Organization: Shredding the water of SF Bay, HP-OCD
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car

An easy trick would be to run the stereo off a deep-cycle marine battery
($50) and then charge the battery when not listening to the stereo (make
sure to disconnect the stereo).  You might want to add a stiffening capacitor
just to handle the current surges that the battery can't supply.  

I pretty much do this all the time.  I charge my battery while driving and
then listen to the Cd player in the evening while camping.  Better Cd
changers (I believe) shut down when the battery voltage drops too low.

MAKE SURE TO USE FUSES!!!!

Kirk out
From: filo@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (John Filo)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Does laser alignment really work?
Date: 16 Dec 92 06:19:19 GMT
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin


My CD player (a Sony, don't remember the model number off hand) in my car skips
to a point of almost being unbearable.  I was wondering if having the laser
aligned would help.  The impression I get from the few people I've talked to
is that is generally doesn't solve the problem (I'm not counting the repair shops
I called, all of which insisted that having it done would solve all my problem).
I don't really want to shell out the 50 or so bucks it costs to have it done
if it doesn't usually work.  Any success stories out there?

Thanks,
John Filo
filo@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: bmyers@well.sf.ca.us (Bryan L. Myers)
Subject: 6X9s in Acura Integra
Organization: Whole Earth 'Lectronic Link
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1992 01:44:13 GMT


Regarding the installation of 6X9s in an Acura Integra, I can't
tell you where to put them but I can tell you where NOT to.  I
mounted Alpine 6X9s in the deck (i.e., the interior trunk cover).
They sound great; but, the car was not meant for this install as
I now have this annoying rattle.  Seem the deck was engineered
for only so much weight. Sincerely, bmyers@well.sf.ca.us 12.11.92
From: rkb6116@zeus.tamu.edu (MR. WEATHER)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Old car needs stereo
Date: 11 Dec 1992 15:17 CST
Organization: Texas A&M University, Academic Computing Services
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: zeus.tamu.edu
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    

In article <1992Dec11.183617.7367@sherpa.com>, roys@sherpa.com writes...
>I bought a 1969 Oldsmobile 98 convertible a few months ago need to do
>something about the stereo system.  It has the original 5 lb AM radio
>with a speaker in the middle of the dash and another in the middle of
>the rear seat.  I do not want to permanently damage any part of the car
>and would like to leave the original radio in the dash.

[stuff deleted]

>Does anyone know of a way to put a reasonable stereo setup in a car
>like this?  I know there are some CD trunk mounted systems with a remote
>going to the front, do any of these have a radio with them?  Are any
>of these under $500?  Is there a better method?

I don't know for sure about your particular car, but I mounted a head unit
in the glove box of a '65 Mustang.  When the box is closed, the car keeps its
complete stock appearance.

Mr. Weather <> aka Ken Blair <> rkb6116@zeus.tamu.edu <> Aggieland USA
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: sward@vaxwrk.enet.dec.com (Peter Sward)
Subject: Re: Class A MOSFET Power Amp for sale...
Reply-To: sward@vaxwrk.enet.dec.com (Peter Sward)
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation, Maynard MA
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 15:03:11 GMT


In article <15DEC199209305483@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov>, yystg@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov (Steve Graham) writes:
|> Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
|> From: yystg@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov (Steve Graham)
|> Subject: Re: Class A MOSFET Power Amp for sale...
|> Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
|> Date: 15 Dec 1992 09:30 EST  
|> 
|> In article <1992Dec13.183539.20822@nmt.edu>, maley@nmt.edu (Mark Maley) writes...
|> >It is true that an amp can be of class A output design and at the same time
|> >utilize a MOSFET power supply, but how likely is it to have a true class A
|> >amplifier which delivers 25w x 4 into 4 ohms powered by a 12V battery?
|> >Unless my knowledge of class A amplifiers is lacking, I believe that such
|> >amps have a mere 20% theoretical efficiency.  This would mean that our Bolt
|> >amp would consume a whopping 500 watts.  Does this seem in the least bit
|> >practical?  I ask you fellow car audio buffs who, like me, have never heard
|> >of an amplifier manufacturer named 'Bolt' whether or not this advertisement
|> >seems in the least bit tainted?  If perchance this is a ligitimate ad, I
|> >apologize to the owner and ask him to post some more specs on this wonder-
|> >amp, for i may have an extra $100 obo to spend (besides, my heater isn't 
|> >working well and I assume runnning this thing into 2 ohms could create
|> >at least 800 watts of heat, not to mention 200 watts of pure linear
|> >music power.  Seems like an excellent investment to me!!)
|> > 
|> >			Mark
|> > 
|> >maley@jupiter.nmt.edu
|> 
	Most of the CLASS-A car amps out there are advertised as CLASS-A
	BUT are reall high biased AB amps. What the CLASS-A really means is
	that the input stage is running in class A but the power stage is
	running in a high AB.

	Peter

Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: blasjw@ntmtv.UUCP (Joseph Blas)
Subject: Re: CLASS A/MOSFET
Reply-To: blasjw@ntmtv.UUCP (Joseph Blas)
Organization: Northern Telecom Inc, Mountain View, CA
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 23:19:11 GMT

In article <demaine.724357384@ee.ualberta.ca> demaine@ee.ualberta.ca (Cal Demaine) writes:
>RYNA10@waccvm.corp.mot.com (Jay Kopycinski) writes:
>
>>veloovet writes:
>
>>>    I have a Bolt MOSFET car power amp for sale
>>>    Here are some of the specifications:
>>>        Class A...
>>>        Full MOSFET power supply...
>
>>You of course realize that "class A" refers to a type of
>>power supply, and "MOSFET" refers to another type of
>>power supply.  No one amp can be both!
>
>>...Just thought I'd point this out...
>
>>******** Not so....Class A refers to the bias point of the active devices
>>in the amp.  A class A amp has the operating point set such that
>>current in the output circuit flows at all times, and itoperates over
>>the linear portion of its characteristic curve.  MOSFET is simply one
>>type of active device, in this case a field effect transistor.
>>Hope this is helpful..........
>>Jay
>
>Oh, I'm getting sick of this.  ANYWAY, I do believe that in many car-audio
>circles, MOSFET refers only to the transistors used in the switching power
>supply.  There are notible exceptions, of course.  But I won't note them.
>Considering the unit, I would be surprised if it was anything but a MOSFET
>power supply.
>
>Secondly, this Class A is really getting to me.  Class A amps are almost
>unknown in the home audio world, and, in car audio-land, completely
>ficticious.  (This is if I remember correctly)  Considering the amount of
>power they burn off as heat, they are completely unsuitable for car audio.
>
>Ok, ok.  One company does make a megabuck, tubed, Class A car amplifier,
>but we can probably safely ignore it's existance.
>
>  - Cal
>
>PS: I could be completely wrong on all of this.
>
 I wouldn't say that Class A car amps are unheard of.  Soundstream
 makes Class A amps.
From: maley@nmt.edu (Mark Maley)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Class A MOSFET Power Amp for sale...
Date: 13 Dec 92 18:35:39 GMT
Organization: New Mexico Tech

In article <Bz56Ax.IGJ@citrus.SAC.CA.US> eddys@citrus.SAC.CA.US ( Steve Eddy ) writes:
>n8842401@henson.cc.wwu.edu (Matthew Stearns) writes:
>: veloovet writes:
>: 
>: >    I have a Bolt MOSFET car power amp for sale
>: >    Here are some of the specifications:
>: >        Class A...
>: >        Full MOSFET power supply...
>: 
>: You of course realize that "class A" refers to a type of 
>: power supply, and "MOSFET" refers to another type of 
>: power supply.  No one amp can be both!  
>: 
>: ...Just thought I'd point this out...
>
>   You of course realize that "class A" refers to a type of biasing scheme
>which is applied typically to amplifier output stages and has nothing to do
>with power supplies, and "MOSFET" refers to a type of transistor which can
>be used in power supplies OR amplifier output stages. 
> 
> ...Just thought I'd point this out...
>
>se
>
It is true that an amp can be of class A output design and at the same time
utilize a MOSFET power supply, but how likely is it to have a true class A
amplifier which delivers 25w x 4 into 4 ohms powered by a 12V battery?
Unless my knowledge of class A amplifiers is lacking, I believe that such
amps have a mere 20% theoretical efficiency.  This would mean that our Bolt
amp would consume a whopping 500 watts.  Does this seem in the least bit
practical?  I ask you fellow car audio buffs who, like me, have never heard
of an amplifier manufacturer named 'Bolt' whether or not this advertisement
seems in the least bit tainted?  If perchance this is a ligitimate ad, I
apologize to the owner and ask him to post some more specs on this wonder-
amp, for i may have an extra $100 obo to spend (besides, my heater isn't 
working well and I assume runnning this thing into 2 ohms could create
at least 800 watts of heat, not to mention 200 watts of pure linear
music power.  Seems like an excellent investment to me!!)

			Mark

maley@jupiter.nmt.edu
From: hhtra@usho72.hou281.chevron.com (T.M.Haddock)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Telephone Numbers
Date: 15 Dec 92 19:30:58 GMT
Organization: Chevron


 FYI

 I keep the CSR Buyer's Guide handy because they list all the
 addresses and phone numbers in the back.  

 But most of these phone numbers are not the Toll Free numbers.
 So, before I call, I dial  1-800-555-1212  and ask for a listing.
 It's free and could save you some money when the Tech Dept puts
 you on hold for 15 nimutes.  ;)

 TRAVIS
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: dadams@dstrike.demon.co.uk ("David Adams")
Subject: Re: Tweeter Mounting Location? 
Distribution: world
Organization: Data Strike Computers Ltd
X-Mailer: Simple NEWS 1.90 (ka9q DIS 1.19)
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1992 02:52:40 +0000

In article <1992Dec11.143444.21161@news.duc.auburn.edu> kevins@eng.auburn.edu writes:

>Should surface mount tweeters be located up high, near the headliner, 
>or farther down or what?  Reflections off the glass could be a problem, no?
>

The answer is: little sticky pads (or some such).  Try the tweeters in
different places, leave them there for a while and then move them.  Repeat
until your happy.  It is the best way to be sure.

-- 
+---------------------------------------------------------------+
| David Adams                  |   dadams@dstrike.demon.co.uk   |
| Data Strike Computers Ltd.   |   100031.160@compuserve.com    |
+---------------------------------------------------------------+
From: ui68@linus.umd.edu (Bill Kyte)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: How many remote leads?
Date: 15 Dec 92 23:00:55 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: University of Maryland, College Park


   I have a small question for the net.  How many leads can you run off of 
the head units remote wire? I want to run two or three amps and don't know
what to do with the other two remote leads from the amps.
Anyone's help would be greatly appreciated.
       Thank you
                  -Bill
From: boing@mcl.ucsb.edu (Geff Hanoian)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Cassette tuners vs. cassette radios
Date: 14 Dec 92 03:44:42 GMT


	
In <1g5qv6INNk12@agate.berkeley.edu> c60b-1hy@e260-1b.berkeley.edu (Albert Wu) writes:


>My question is, what's the difference between cassette tuners and cassette
>radios?  And which is better?

	One has an amplifier and one doesn't. ...  maybe it's one 
	controlls a changer and one doesn't .. I don't remember but these
	are the criteria.  As for which is better .. probably the one
	without the amplifier ... I personally think a straight CD player
	is better ...  
	boing

--
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
|             DISCLAIMER!!!!!!  The opinions I express are my own.         |
|  Nakamichi, Precision Power, AVI SOUND, and Monster Cable Speaker Wire.  |
|        boing@mcl.mcl.ucsb.edu   FRIENDS DON'T LET FRIENDS USE MACS!      |
From: mortiz@hpprdeb.prd.hp.com (Miguel Ortiz)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 15:41:47 GMT
Subject: HELP!!: System for Miata
Organization: HP Puerto Rico Manufacturing Operation