HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: goes@chimera.sph.umn.edu (James Goes)
Subject: Re: 1979 VW Rabbit diesel Problem
Reply-To: goes@chimera.sph.umn.edu (James Goes)
Organization: University of Minnesota
Distribution: goes
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 22:56:22 GMT

In article <1993Jan7.175540.19595@sequent.com> beck@sequent.com ("W. Scott  
Beck") writes:
> Hi There
> I own a 1979 Rabbit Diesel C and have a problem. The weather is about
> 4 degrees with the wind chill and the car would not start. It has
> a new fuel filter, new belt, alt/gen is about a year old, battery
> was recharged three weeks ago. the would crank but not turn over,
> tried jump starting it, did the same thing. Any ideas what it could
> be??
> I'm ready to get my gun out and shoot it, it is a problem car since
> I bought it two monts ago (third owner) 181k miles, 
> 
> Thanks for any help
> Scott
> PS anyone want to buy a Rabbit Diesel?

Well, here in the frozen North it was -10 last night (without the wind  
chill), and my 82 diesel Rab started o.k.  The older models have weaker glow  
plugs, and you might not be getting enough chamber warming to start.  Or you  
could have frozen water or something clogging the fuel lines; you can bleed  
them easily by loosening the connections at the injectors and having a friend  
crank the motor.  If all else fails, try a little ether on cold mornings.   
It's been known to work.  After several winters in cold country, I've found a  
block heater to be a absolute necessity.

--
*********************************************************************
Jim Goes			+ InterNet: goes@chimera.sph.umn.edu 
Health Management & Policy	+            (NeXTmail welcome!)    
School of Public Health		+ Phone:    (612) 624-3118
University of Minnesota		+ FAX:      (612) 624-3972
*********************************************************************
From: ari@leland.Stanford.EDU (Ari Ollikainen)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Qustions on Vanagon with Weekender Package
Date: 7 Jan 1993 01:23:51 GMT
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: mordor.stanford.edu

In article <11099@wrgate.wr.tek.com> steveh@amadeus.wr.tek.com (Steve Huss) writes:
>Hi folks!
>
>I'm considering buying a Vanagon with the weekender package (If I can
>find one) I like the idea of some storage with a bed. I'm pretty sure 
>that some or all variations came with a pop top, this would also be 
>nice. I'm shying away from a full fledged camper because I need the 
>seating/storage space and don't want to always carry around 
>a complete kitchen.
>
>My hunch is that the weekender was only available for a few years before
>VW just provided the GL camper to the US market. Anyone out there that 
>can detail the years available and the exact configurations? Also, did
>the rear bench/bed extend the complete width of the van or was there
>more cabinetry similar to the camper?
>

Well, for what it's worth, I know that the 1985 model year had the 
Weekender option: rear seat folds into bed, rear cargo area foam 
cushion, forward tilting backrests on center bench seat, no rear bench
seat armrests. Although it would have seemed reasonable to add, VW
didn't provide the Westfalia screened sliding windows.
We have a 1985VanagonGL thusly equipped ...

There were a number of different Wolfsburg Edition Vanagons which came with 
different versions of rear bench folding bed and storage in the years 
following 1985. These versions eventually coalesced into the MultiVan Vanagon.
Which had a storage cabinet in the rear with full witdth rear bench that 
made into a bed and rearward facing "theatre seats" behind the driver 
and front passenger seats. These could be had in pop and non-poptop versions.

The current EuroVan has a MV model which is equivalent in content to the
MultiVan.

In 1986/1987 I considered ordering, through Knoebel&Sohne (the VW dealer
in Wiedenbruck, around the corner from the Westfalia factory) a Vanagon 
with the Weekender kit and pop-top with bed without any cabinetry. This
would have given my growing family enough seats and would have slept 
two adults and three/four children in comfort. Unfortunately our plans
changed ...

Ari Ollikainen (who now "camps" with four kids in a huge ClassC mini-
motorhome)



Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: Re: decelerating by downshifting 
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 12:39:13 GMT

In article <C0Iw5o.9ox@news.udel.edu>, bew@brahms.udel.edu (Ben Williams) writes:
>
>Someone recently asked about warming up the engine before driving.  The
>following is possibly another `old husband's tale`:
>
>Quite a while ago I got into the (I thought good) habit of downshifting
>whenever I needed to slow down.  The rationale I was told was to save the
>brakes.  So whenever I am approaching a red light or STOP sign, I will
>downshift until I get to 2nd gear and then brake (that is assuming I have
>enough space in which to pull this off).  Is this a good driving technique?

This is a practice that evolved in the days when brakes were not all
that efficient, and tended to fade with "normal" applications, so
downshifting would be used to help the brakes do their job.

Unless you are driving like a bat out of hell, and you need to 
help your brakes do their job (like on a race track), you really
don't need to do so.

All you have to do is ask yourself one question...."did he fire
"...oops thats Dirty Harry....."which is cheaper to replace,
brakes or engines?"

Ric

>
>This isn't a specifically VW question I know, but I do drive a VW bug.
>
>Ben.
>
>-- 
>Ben Williams
>bew@brahms.udel.edu
>
>               What we got here is a failure to communicate...
From: daris_b1@verifone.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Engine mods
Date: 12 Jan 93 06:22:56 -1000
Organization: VeriFone Inc., Honolulu HI

In article <1iff7kINNc2j@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>, wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy) writes:
>
    [ Stuff deleted ]
> 
>>3) "Doghouse" fan and shroud
> 
> You've already got these!  "Doghouse" refers to how the fan housing sticks up
> in front of the engine on the type I engines.  My type IV ('77 bus) engine is
> called a "pancake" because the fan housing lays flat behind the engine.
> 
Not exactly, "doghouse cooler" referrs to the repositioned oil cooler and 
fan shroud introduced on the 71 Beetle and Bus.

>>4) Remote oil cooler
> 
> Never had one, but from what I understand, especially if you are keeping your
> engine stock, there really isn't all that much need for an external cooler.
> Perhaps you could think about simply putting on a slightly larger than normal
> sump.  I think Gene Berg makes some and if he does, they'd be superior quality.
> That'd put a little more quantity of oil in the system, helping with the
> cooling question.
> 
Actually, Gene Berg preaches the merits of the "doghouse" cooler system.
Check out his catalog/tech manual.
>
   [ More stuff deleted ]
> 
>>6) Free flow exhaust (but one the keeps the heater boxes!)
> 
> I've got a Monza that's just waiting to go on my bus.  I've heard a good free-
> flow can add a fair amount of HP, but I don't know first hand.  There are some
> cheesy ones out there, though, so be careful.
> 
Monza exhausts are as restrictive as a stock system, but deeper in tone.
>
   [ Still more stuff deleted ]
>
> Bill
> -- 
> William Claspy		Case Western Reserve University
> wpc@po.cwru.edu

Regards,
   Daris
From: purgaviera@mala.bc.ca
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Jetta/Scirrco seat exchange
Date: 12 Jan 93 09:42:08 -0700
Organization: Malaspina College

Re:Jetta/Scirrco seat exchange
I have a problem with head room in my 4 door 81 Jetta and have a lead on some
seats from a 2 door Scirrco (approximately same vintage) price $75-100 Cnd. 
Will they trade straight across or will they need serious alterations? 
Thanks...This is my first transmission on Internet...Yeehaw...
Rob (Budding Hacker)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: powell@interlan.interlan.com (Glen D. Powell)
Subject: 914 FOR SALE!
Organization: Racal Datacom, Inc., Boxborough, MA (1-800-LAN-TALK)
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 16:51:00 GMT



FOR SALE: 74 Porsche 914 1.8, 45,000 miles, Bilsteins, adjustable
auto-x springs, lowered, HD torsion bars, many spares and tune-up
parts, etc. Includes complete 73 914 2.0 parts car, no collision
damage to parts car, just some 914 body sag.

All for $3,000.

Please call Jim Vann at 1-508-486-8755, Boston MA area

PLEASE DO NOT CALL THE POSTER OF THIS ADVERTISMENT!

Thanks,

-glen

-- 
Fundsalo Racing-73 CP RAIV 455HO Firebird GTO, 85 Quattro, 84&86 4000CS Quattros
The Few..... The Proud..... The Concurrently Executed..... Ex-Alliant
Don't buy japanese *ANYTHING*
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Learn to properly use your brakes (LOOOONG)
From: emd@ham.almanac.bc.ca
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 93 11:12:34 PST
Distribution: world
Organization: Robert Smits

rgolen@UMASSD.EDU writes:

> I don't mean to flame anyone out there, but after reading some of
> the comments regarding downshifting to supplement braking, I have
> to toss in some comments. As I said in my first posting on this,
> downshifting as an aid to braking was done at a time when brakes
> were not all that efficient. The motor was used to supplement the
> brakes. This is really not necessary today, given disk brakes,
> vented rotors and the different brake compounds available.
> 

Lots of excellent arguments for using brakes instead of downshifting
while racing deleted for space reasons.

> I'm sorry for being so long winded, and if I have offended
> anyone, I apologize, for it was not my intent. But if you feel
> your brakes are not up to par there are two major reasons:
> 1. They system itself is not up to snuff, and therefore needs
> some work;
> 
> or 
> 
> 2. You, the driver, need to learn to properly, and efficiently
> learn to use your brakes.


The thing that strikes me is that we're talking apples 'n' oranges here.
The author of the post is talking about maximum efficiency in slowing 
down in a RACING situation, whilst most of us are trundling along public 
roads at speeds nowhere near those of racing speeds. 

I see absolutely nothing wrong with gradually slowing down by using the 
gearbox, and only using the brakes to actually stop precisely because 
I'm not racing or driving my car at anywhere near the edge of its 
capabilities. 

And engineers DO design their cars so that people can downshift without
causing damage to the tranny. If downshifting causes the engine to 
over-rev, you were going too fast to downshift in the first place.
When you need to stop or slow quickly, of course you use the brakes, and
silmultaneously shift into the appropriate gear for moving forward again
when possible. 

None of the above means I consider the original poster wrong in what he 
said for driving at maximum speed in racing situations, just that it 
wasn't necessarily applicable for "normal" driving conditions for most
of us. YMMV.


Robert Smits            | Water? I don't need no steenking water!
emd@ham.almanac.bc.ca   |
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: pyle@intellistor.com (Norm Pyle)
Subject: Eurovan Bra?
Organization: Intellistor, Longmont, CO
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 93 15:28:40 GMT

I just purchased a 93 Eurovan (zaks! water-cooled, FRONT engine!).  The hood
angle is just asking to be pounded by road gravel which causes me to ask for
a bra.  A friend of mine says that the bra on his Ghia just rubbed the paint
off underneath over time.  He said that dirt was trapped between the bra and
the paint and acted like sandpaper.  Needless, to say he's anti-bra.

It seems to me that touching up the paint in a couple of spots (rubbed off by
the bra) is better than touching up many spots nicked by gravel all over the
place.  Discussion?  At the risk of a FAQ, what's the best place to buy a
bra, and can one be bought for a vehicle this new?  Thanks for any advice.

Norm
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: morton@gaul.csd.uwo.ca (Brent Morton)
Subject: Re: What's up with that...
Organization: Computer Science Dept., Univ. of Western Ontario, London, Canada
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 05:10:57 GMT

In article <2884203EC400.2.0@sscl.uwo.ca> 2884203EC400@sscl.uwo.ca writes:
>
>I've had my jetta for a while, an now, in the style of Cliff Claven I 
>ask...
>
>
>Why is it that the radio does not go off with the key?  What's up with 
>that?  While I enjoy being able to sing to the radio all of the way up the 
>front steps and into my house, I hate coming out to the car in the morning 
>to find that the tape has auto-reversed itself for twelve hours.

Volkswagen trademark; that goes way back (although I understand they've
stopped it though(?)) I actually don't mind, but I might feel different if I
had small children in my car often or was a bit more forgetful.

>The light in my trunk... what's up with it?  At first I didn't even think 
>that there was a light.  Then I found the light and thought the bulb was 
>burned out so I tested the bulb.  The bulb worked and I was really confused 
>but luckily, keeping the radio lesson in mind I decided to try something 
>really stupid... sure enough it worked.  The trunk light only works while 
>the headlights are on.  Terrific thinking that you only need a light when it 

Interesting... it's not the same in my Passat or in an Audi. I know that the
glovebox light only works when the car is turned on, but the trunk light is
always on when I open the trunk.

>But not quite as crazy as the gear shift.  Reverse... what's up with that?  
>What is wrong with the standard five-speed pattern that the rest of the 
>world uses.  Do people like having their shifters move up and down?  It 
>should be listed as a theft deterrent device because no crook could ever 
>back the car up.

It's the same pattern on some BMWs, except that you have to push through some
resistance to go left to R instead of pushing down and left. If your shifter's
really "boingy", there may be something wrong -- my shifter takes enough
effort to push down that it never moves vertically while shifting through the
forward gears.

-- Brent
morton@artifis.gaul.csd.uwo.ca

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: neves@duvel.cs.colorado.edu (NEVES RICHARD K)
Subject: Re: [W] '90 Passat with gear shifting problems
Keywords: Passat, transmission
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 19:23:41 GMT

In article <117@mipps.myapc.com> haskins@mipps.myapc.com (Robert D. Haskins) writes:
>I have noticed a problem with shifting into reverse, though not all of the time.
>The vehicle will be stopped for at least 5 seconds (with my foot on the brake, 
>obviously), at which time I attempt to place it into reverse.  I can hear the 
>'grind' of the teeth. If I move the car a foot or so forward, and repeat the 
>procedure, it shifts fine.
>
>Has anyone else noticed this phenomena?  


Yep.  Me too.  It doesn't happen all the time.  In fact, doesn't
happen most of the time, so I have been living with it.  When I feel
it even start to grind, I release and depress the clutch again and it
doesn't happen.  Annoying though.  What's really annoying is my wife
yelling at me to put in the clutch all the way when it happens (as if
I'm not already).

Rich

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: jtong73@calvin.edu (Joanna Tong)
Subject: solid lifter head
Organization: Calvin College
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 04:43:28 GMT

Does anybody have a 83-84 GTI, or 84-88 Scirrocco 8V head that is in decent
condition that they are willing to sell?  I'm in the market for one now.  
Most important thing to me is that it be in good enough condition 
(around 60-70000 mile range) that I can just bolt it onto my block without
having to put more money into a complete valve job, and all the other misc.
expenses that I'd like to avoid if possible.  

Thanks.  Peter Tong 

	

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: ep502ca@pts.mot.com (CHARLES ACTOR X2751 P7091)
Subject: Re: Where do I purchase rebuilt VW engine?
Reply-To: ep502ca@pts.mot.com
Organization: Paging and Wireless Data Group
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 13:42:18 GMT

Go to your local magazine rack and grab a copy of Hot VWs.  They'll list
a dozen or so sources.  I personally would reccomend a company called GEX.
They test every engine before they ship, use brand new heads and give you
a warranty.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca (Andy)
Subject: [W] Shaky steering wheel on turn
Keywords: steering wheel shakes
Organization: Math, Stats & CS, Dalhousie University, Halifax, NS, Canada
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 22:46:35 GMT

Hi there,

Yes its me again with another problem. Has to do with a shaky steering wheel.
(85 GTI - 130K 1 year old rims - no bends - balanced - tires are fine)

1) If I pull the steering wheel towrds me, I can pull it out about 1 cm.
Where do I adjust this thing to make it snug. (Its not the bolt that holds
the wheel itself, its somwhere deeper in the steering assembly because I 
have to tug quite hard to pull it up, and when I let go, it drops back in.
I can still steer with the steering wheel pulled up.)

2) I got alignment done and I know it is right because I watched the guy
do it. Now the car feels fine when I go straight, no pullung to any side.
When I turn right (on the highway type turn) the car feels fine. BUT when
I turn left I get vibration in my steering wheel. I thought it would be 
balancing of the wheels, but its fine in a straight line  (at higher speeds
too). Alignment is fine. The bearings? I was told by an Audi dealer that
this is not the couse because I would hear the bearings if they were bad.
Would it be the shock absorber mounts? All my CV boots are fine.

Thank you for any suggestions,
Andy

-- 
---....-------------****----*******-) GTI FUN-atic                      o  
--. \/ .-----GTI---******--*********)         Don't forget to bike:     ,-\
--.\/\/.-----------******--*********)  (and sail and windsurf and ski)  0\-0
---....-------------****----*******-) gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca,goaway@ac.dal.ca
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: zowie@daedalus.stanford.edu (Craig "Powderkeg" DeForest)
Subject: Re: '74 Super...Valves
Organization: Stanford Center for Space Science and Astrophysics
	<1993Jan6.071109.1@bb1t.monsanto.com>
Date: 6 Jan 93 15:03:56

In article <foo> bjgaed@bb1t.monsanto.com writes:
   In article <bar>, zowie@daedalus.stanford.edu (Craig "me" DeForest) writes:
   > In article <foo> db6j+@andrew.cmu.edu (Douglas S. Brashear) writes:
   > You can double check your .006" clearances by trying to slip
   > a .008" gauge in.  If it goes in, it's too loose.  If the .006" doesn't
   > go in, it's too tight.

   I've never worked on a super, but aren't all valve clearances .004" 
   since all heads since the 40hp have short studs?

Oooh -- good question.  I've never worked on a Super.  My brother's late-model
fuel injected bus (which later died after it was converted to a carburetor,
decided the choke butterfly valve screws were yummy, and ate 'em up) was 
definitely .006" on all eight valves.  

   > Putting the valve covers back on can be a bit of a pain:  you've got to
   > align the cork gaskets ... I once trashed a cork
   > gasket by not lining it up inside the head cover ...

   I've always taken Muir's advice and cemented the gaskets into the 
   covers (**NOT** onto the heads).  If you have really smooth, brand new 
   valve covers the "no cement" approach works, but if there has ever 
   been cement on your valve covers, or they are at all scratched on the 
   sealing surfaces, my experience has been that you will leak oil.

Yep.  Probably does help a lot.  I've never cemented 'em myself,
though, because I'm normally a lazy SOB and having to fish around to
align the gasket makes me check it and think about getting a new one.
My current bus ('73 camper) leaked like a sieve when I got it.  (you
could always tell if the engine was warm, because of the column of oil
mist rising from the starboard engine vent) Problem?  Old, grungy --
but cemented -- cork gaskets.  New gaskets fixed it, but only after I
scraped off the gooey, blecky mess left by the old contact cement.
--
DON'T DRINK SOAP! DILUTE DILUTE! OK!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Wanted in Minnesota
From: skywalker@vax1.mankato.msus.edu
Date: 8 Jan 93 10:53:57 -0600
Organization: Mankato State University

Does anyone know of a cheap vw bg for sale in Minnesota?

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: wtjones@sr.hp.com ()
Subject: Re: decelerating by downshifting
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 17:23:11 GMT
Organization: HP Sonoma County (SRSD/MWTD/MID)
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8.1]

Additionally, when you downshift through your braking, you are still
in control and have the transmission in a proper gear if you need to 
throttle up to avoid obsticals or continue on your way then the light
turns green prior to getting to the line.

Although it takes some practice with your own vehicle to do it
smoothly, (like- bringing the engine up to speed for the gear you
are shifting down to) I feel that the chances of locking up your
brakes in the icy conditions around the area make the practice of
downshifting all the more desireable.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: dlbradle@jhawk.b30.ingr.com (Doug Bradley)
Subject: Re: [A] brakes suck in my '63
Reply-To: dlbradle@jhawk.b30.ingr.com.
Organization: Systems Communications, Intergraph Corp.
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 13:55:09 GMT

[ problem with locking brakes]

don't know if your 63 has them (imagine it does) but when my 73's brakes were
locking. turned out there was rust in the front flex lines (go from frame
to wheel).

bentley manual also describes compensating port on master cyl being blocked
can cause same problem.

probably not your wheel cyls but probably wouldn't hurt to replace them since
you'll be cracking open the hydraulic system in any event (and have to do a
major bleed job).

good luck!

doug
had 8 bugs and counting... 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: eric@quantum.uucp (Eric Johnson)
Subject: Re: Carbs vs Fuel Injection
Date: Thu, 07 Jan 93 15:01:30 GMT
Organization: Quantum Software Systems, Ltd.

In article <1993Jan6.203647.6948@pony.Ingres.COM> garrett@Ingres.COM (WHEN ALL ELSE FAILS, READ THE INSTRUCTIONS) writes:
>In article <1993Jan6.154258.7982@nntp.nta.no>, BARANSKI@veamf1.nusc.navy.mil (Jim Baranski)                writes...
>>How do people feel about Carburators vs. Fuel Injection?  I'm trying to make an
>>informed decision on the merits and flaws of each...
>
>I've never owned a FI car. But from what I understand, as long as everything
>is working then FI is the way to go. But when something breaks (and everything
>breaks eventually), then you would want a carb.
>
>>Can a Carb - Engine be tuned up to match a FI engine?
>> 
>I doubt it.

For a carb to perform as well as FI at all throttle settings, the carb
becomes a very complicated piece of equipment, on par with the complication
of FI systems. 

>>Which is better, High Tech, or Low Tech?
>> 
>Since I'm poor, low tech. 

Key bits in carbs can be replaced for very little money (jets etc), and
the carb itself can be disassembled and cleaned. FI on the other hand
tends to have some precision machined electromechanical and mechanical
components which it is impractical to repair, and these parts are expensive.

A relatively simple carb can provide very good performance at full throttle -
and multi-barrel designs can work quite well overall. However while power
can be good, efficiency and emissions tend not to be as good as FI, without
rather a lot more sophistication.

-- 
Eric Johnson (eric@quantum.qnx.com or try eric@quantum.on.ca)
Technical Development, Quantum Software Systems Ltd (QNX OS)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw