HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: sbender@navajo.dsd.es.com (Steve Bender)
Subject: Re: RFI:Putting Balls in your gas
Organization: Evans & Sutherland
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 92 16:29:33 GMT

In article <1d9i5pINNjtf@bigboote.WPI.EDU>, damong@planet10.WPI.EDU (Damon Francis Gentile) writes:
|> In article <1992Nov3.134855.1@sscvx1.ssc.gov> schludermann@sscvx1.ssc.gov writes:
|> >
|> >  Does anyone know the mixing ratio of mothballs (naphthalene) per unit of
|> >gasoline? Too much balls and bye-bye pistons.
|> >
|> >Kris
|> 
|> I've never heard of this. What is the reason for the addition ?  What 
|> are the outcomes ?
|> 

Naphthalene can have the effect of boosting the octane slightly.  Perhaps
more importantly, it is a major ingredient in fuel de-icing additives and
can provide a "cure" for fuel contaminated with water as it emulsifies water
in gasoline.  Be advised that products sold as "mothballs" have components
other than naphta, and may not have desirable effects on fuel or your car.
I personally would not "try" this unless faced with being disabled with 
contaminated fuel.

-- 
Steve Bender
Evans & Sutherland
(801) 582-5847
Salt Lake City, UT 84108

sbender@dsd.es.com

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: new required dyno emissions tests / Re: New Gasoline Ripoff
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 92 06:08:58 GMT

Dave Williams (dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us) wrote:
: 
: -> Anyone who drives a internal combustion powered vehicle contributes
: -> to the world emmisions.  I am tired of all of this old car bashing as
: 
:  There's also the raw fact that the majority of the world doesn't give a
: rat's ass about pollution, and if the US miraculously stopped putting
: out even a gram of pollution, it wouldn't make that much difference to
: the world at large.

Oh, yes, by all means, let's just keep dumping garbage into the atmosphere 
because it's only a little.  Fine, cars may just be a drop in the bucket,
but the bucket is full of drops.  Think about it.

YES, cars pollute.  YES, the Air Force pollutes.  Who does more is immaterial,
except from a political standpoint.  In 20 years, all that will matter is the
amount of junk we are pumping out, not where it came from.  

I bet you didn't vote either, because "What can one person do?"  Just guessing.

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
Don't blame me; I voted for Perot!                hinzd@picard.med.ge.com 
SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.             Pherrets are Phun!!!
From: x90laws1@gw.wmich.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Need Rotary Engine (12A)
Date: 12 Nov 92 18:02:39 EST
Organization: Western Michigan University

In article <92310.124226KXN2@psuvm.psu.edu>, Karl Nordstrom <KXN2@psuvm.psu.edu> writes:
> seanr@lobo.rmhs.colorado.edu (Sean Reifschneider) says:
>>
>>blu@cellar.org (Dan Reed) writes:
>>>
>>>smith@ctron.com (Larry Smith) writes:
>>>>
>>>>jpmcmill@acs.ucalgary.ca
>>>>>
>>>>>Help! I just found out that the engine on my 1983 RX7 just bit
>>>>>it, no compression.  I am looking for an independent aftermarket
>>>>
>>>>It has been alleged to me that a complete engine rebuild for a Mazda rotary
>>>>is something like $150 down at your Mazda engine shop.  I'd be curious to
>>>
>>>Hate to tell you this.... Rotarys have no compression.  Try it...
>>
>>Hate to tell you this, but they DO.  It still has intake, compression and
>>exhaust phases, it's just that it does them all at the same time.
> 
> Just how does a rotory compress its fuel?
>>Rotarys are intersting motors.  It DOES have compression but of a different
kind from normal autos.  Don't even bother with the engineering aspects of it.
just replace the apex seals (like piston rings) and get it over with.  Or, get
your friendly junk dudes to trade you a 12-A.  They have no use for it.  I
guess they just like Chevys.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sdb@redbeard.physics.fsu.edu (Scott D. Berry)
Subject: Re: New Gasoline Ripoff
Organization: Florida State University
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 92 14:32:13 GMT

In article <Bx9C7B.1As@ssesco.com> nau@ssesco.com (William Nau) writes:
>>My info is from a report on "All Things Considered" which is 
>>apparently more detailed than your info.  MPG changes should be
>>around 3% or so, for newer cars.  For cars older than ~15 years,
>>MPG should actually increase.  The reduction in emissions is
>>greater than this, so the effect is a real change for the better,
>>as far as total emissions.
>
>I read somewhere (could be wrong) that there would be a significant
>reduction in C02 emissions.

Probably CO.

>  However, there is a large increase in
>some sort of organic emissions.  These emissions were to be just

Probably hydrocarbons (HC's).

>as harmful as C02, but because they are not classified that way under
>law, we are not suppoed to believe it.  I understand that some farm
>lobbiest got the law changed so that they organic emissions wouldn't
>be counted.
>
>>You are wrong -- alcohol is more expensive than the gas.
>>Remember the actual cost of the gasoline is NOT the ~$1.20
>>you pay for it at the station.  My memory tells me that the
>>actual cost (out of the refinery) is closer to $.60-$.80/gal.
>>(or even less, since there are typically $.30 in taxes).
>
>You may be right, but this does not explain why before the alchol
>based fuels were REQUIRED, it usually cost several cents less.

Tax subsidies.  There are other posts on this.

>If it cost less before, why does it cost more now.  I see it as
>becaues they can get away with it.  In this state (MN) we have
>no problem producing enough grain to keep up with production.  They
>can't blame it on that.
>
>>You are mistaken because you do not have the facts.
>>How much more are the costs?  (My impression is that the increase is
>>~$.05/gal.)  Are you accounting for the benefits such as cleaner air
>>and its effect on the general public health?
>
>Like I said according to my information (how good it is, I don't know)
>it does not clean up the air.  It just changes what kind of crap we're
>putting into it.  From what I've seen in the past it should also cost
>less to purchase.
>-- 
>William R. Nau
>Supercomputer Systems Engineering and Services Company (SSESCO)
>511 11th Avenue South, Suite 216
>Minneapolis, Minnesota 55415-1536
>(612) 342-0003
>
>nau@SSESCO.com

Scott D. Berry    Assistant Professor of Physics    Florida State University
315 Keen Bldg, B-159, Tallahassee, FL 32306-3016    (904) 644-1218
INTERNET:   berry@redbeard.physics.fsu.edu    BITNET:   berry@fsu

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: lester@naomi.b23b.ingr.com (Les Bartel)
Subject: Re: heater core leak
Reply-To: lester@naomi.b23b.ingr.com
Organization: Intergraph Corporation
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 16:28:47 GMT

In article <clogan.03oj@redorc.chi.il.us>, clogan@redorc.chi.il.us (Sigmond Freude) writes:
|> In article <1992Nov3.183304.11928@urbana.mcd.mot.com>,
|> ddefend@urbana.mcd.mot.com (Dan Defend) writes:
|> >I'm getting a strong antifreeze smell when I use the heater (and some smell on
|> >vent) in my '86 Mustang GT.  I assume it's a heater core leak.  I've tried a
|> >couple of different stop leaks with no success (I let the car idle almost an 
|> >hour on the last attempt -- I know that may not be a great thing to do for
|> >other reasons).  Anyone had luck correcting this problem without replacing 
|> >the heater core?
|> >
|> No, only way in repairing a heater core is to take it out and get it silver
|> soldered or replace it.
|> 
|> I have a 86 mustang and the heater core is a snap to get to. Just look under
|> the clove compartment by the computer and there shound be a plate with 4 or 6
|> screws holding it in place. Take the cover off and the lines and it should
|> slide right out.

Is that with or without AC?

I've replaced heater cores in an '81 Mustang and '76 Pinto.  Neither were
as easy as your '86.  As for the stop leak - well, it would have never
worked on my cores.  They were both corroded quite badly.  The stop leak
may have worked for a while, but not long, I suspect.  There was a recent
thread here about using stop leak stuff.  The consensus seemed to be if
you have a leak, fix it right.  The stop leak will tend to stop several
'leaks' in your cooling system.  Can you say plugged passages?

 - les

-- 
Les Bartel			lester@naomi.b23b.ingr.com
Intergraph Corporation		Huntsville, AL
Electronics Division		(205) 730-8537

To the cat, the experimenter is problematic.
From: schludermann@sscvx1.ssc.gov
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Will EGR sys be cleaned by combustion chamber cleaners?
Date: 7 Nov 92 00:14:52 GMT
Article-I.D.: sscvx1.1992Nov6.181452.1
Organization: Superconducting Super Collider Laboratory


  The advertisments claim to remove engine combustion deposits. Will these
products work up into and clean the egr system too. Whats the scavaging
agents used.

Kris
From: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: HELP:Extrememly Hard to f
Date: 9 Nov 92 16:26:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Ye Olde Bailey BBS - Houston, TX - 713-520-1569
Reply-To: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 



  !@#        I've been looking for 3 months in all USA for the
  !@#        fuel-ejection electronic control unit
  !@#        for a RENAULT FUEGO '82
  !@#        Serial number BOSCH L-Jetronic 028 0000 210.


Here in Houston the ONLY place we can computers for Renaults is from the
junkyard/used parts places. It's been over  a year since I replaced
one..We could get a new one then but cost was over $600.00. A-M Used
Parts found us one. Don't have phone number handy.
                                                        Don


 * SLMR 2.1a * I'm too poor to have a TAG!
                                                             
----
Ye Olde Bailey BBS
Houston,Texas
Node 1: 1 713 520 1569
yob@sccsi.com
From: awakhras@phoenix.Princeton.EDU (Amer Wahid Akhras)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: RX-7 Service Centers / DC Area
Date: 8 Nov 92 19:18:31 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Princeton University
Originator: news@nimaster

thank you very much.

hani w akhras
hwa@fassm.jhuapl.edu
From: jhaines@eniac.seas.upenn.edu (Jason Haines)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: variable back-pressure/silencing exhaust
Date: 12 Nov 92 06:27:28 GMT
Organization: University of Pennsylvania


	Does anyone know what type of system is used on the Mitsubishi
3000 GT to provide an adjustable muffler (I think this is only on the
top model)?
	I think Yamaha has a motorcycle that uses variable back-pressure
to increase low end torque and still provide high end hp - any one know
of this system or any similar systems?

	Any related info would be appreciated.


------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jason R. Haines		     University of Pennsylvania (SEAS & Wharton)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
   Red '90 Mustang LX 5.0    /     Blue '71 Rotary Powered Datsun 510
(Recycle your toner cartridges)	           (^^^^^FOR SALE^^^^^)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu (Rockville)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Coasting with auto tranny's...
Date: 6 Nov 92 22:34:33 GMT
Article-I.D.: news.BxBG1M.7or
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana

ilh@lcs.mit.edu (Lee Hetherington) writes:

>In article <Bx91Ev.91p.1@cs.cmu.edu>
>rudis+@cs.cmu.edu (Rujith S DeSilva) writes:
>   On an automatic car, can one shift into drive while the car is
>   moving?  Would it damage the transmission?

>You would really kill your transmission if, when shifting from drive
>to neutral, you overshot neutral and hit reverse!

Funny you should mention that...Once on my '85 Olds, the MAF sensor crapped
out, resulting in extremely poor running and the inability to idle in Drive.
As I limped home, I had to put the trans in Neutral every time I got to a
red light (being careful to get to the lowest possible speed before shifting
of course).  Once I DID blow it and slip on into Reverse.  It actually took a
few seconds for me to get it back into Neutral, and even with a delay of maybe
five seconds, I didn't feel any shock from the trans, nor did I notice any
problem later as a result.  Seems to me that a lockout valve or something to
keep the trans from selecting Reverse while moving forward would make sense...
Anybody out there know if there's a lockout?  I only know manuals...
-- 
Michael T. Chaffee        |****COLORADO BOYCOTTER******|  ______    
mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu | Professional Slapthologist |  \    /     HATE
Member, Universal Life Church, Sect of Loons           |   \  /  can never be
Annoyance Theatre Platinum Member |     Evil Genius    |    \/  a FAMILY VALUE
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sheffner@encore.com (Steve Heffner)
Subject: Re: 1965 Barracuda - Ignition Failure
Organization: Encore Computer Corporation
Distribution: rec
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 17:38:43 GMT

neilson@seoul.mpr.ca (Robert Neilson) writes:

>I have a 1965 Barracuda, which was (until last Friday) a very reliable vehicle.

>On Friday I went to start it and it just cranked over, but wouldn't fire up.

The answer is BALLAST RESISTOR.

Steve Heffner
From: spidell@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 17:13:00 GMT
Subject: Re: Flushing before dot-5
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

zrol01@trc.amoco.com (Richard O. Lindsay) writes:
> 
> When changing to dot-5 brake fluid, is there another chemical 
> to flush/clean the system or should one 'bleed' the dot-3 stuff 
> out?

When I put silicone brake fluid (DOT-5) in my `67 Austin-Healey 3000
I replaced the seals and boots (disc front, drum rear) and purged the
system with compressed air.  I then flushed an extra pint or so of
the silicone fluid through the system while bleeding.  No problems
whatsoever after 10,000 miles and 5 years.

regards,
bs
From: frank@marvin.contex.com (Frank Perdicaro)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Recommendations for one-man brake bleeding tools?
Date: 13 Nov 92 14:50:03 GMT
Organization: Xyvision Design Systems

In article <1992Nov12.150619.2203@engage.pko.dec.com> sontakke@helix.enet.dec.com (Vikas Sontakke) writes:
>In article <3123@contex.contex.com>, frank@marvin.contex.com (Frank Perdicaro) writes...
>>Yeah, I though about this for too long.  Finally, I went out and got
>>one of those hand pump things.  What a pain.  But then, I modified it
>>but using some of the provided accessories, and it works great.
>What I don't get is why would you need to have the gizmo in the middle?? Can't
>you just hook up the cup and tubes to the infinite vaccum source as you aptly
>put it and NOT BUY the pump/gauge at all and save $65 of that $70??
>
The pump/guage/clamp gizmo gives a few benefits.  First, the zero hand
operation is nice.  Second, with the clear cup, on can see exactly
when clean brake fluid is coming in.  Third, all my vehicals have
aluminum intake manifolds, and I do not like the idea of brake fluid 
haning around in the manifold -- even a little bit.  The cup makes 
sure none gets there.  Plus, you can do all those neat things with a
MighyVac.  Plus, those spring clamps can be handy.
-- 
	 Frank E Perdicaro, Systems Admin, etc.		Xyvision Color Systems
      Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.		101 Edgewater Drive
   inhouse: frank@marvin, x5572				Wakefield MA
outhouse: frank@contex.com, 617-245-4100x5572		018801285
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: henryng@tellabs.com (Henry Ng)
Subject: Re: Problems with 1978-79 Porsche 911's?
Organization: Tellabs, Lisle,IL
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 14:57:36 GMT

In article <1992Nov3.232626.9978@pbhya.PacBell.COM> drhall1@pbhya.PacBell.COM (Doug R. Hall) writes:
>I am lookiing at buying a Porsche '78-79 911. I was wondering if anyone
>could tell me if they had anything that should be checked. I was told by one
>owner that there was an upgrade to some part of the engine that if it wasn't
>fixed it would ruin the rest of the engine. I have also heard about clutch
>upgrades. Any info about any possible problems would be appreicated.
>

You picked the right year because from 1978 and up, Porsche started using galvanizing steel therefore rust is to the minimum degree. I think he's talking about chain tensoner which most older 911 owners like to upgrade. I would look at the front suspension pan, make sure it is not rusted. If the car is maintained properly, I will not mind high mileage car, provided that all receipts are justified. 911 is very expensive to maintain and they're very tempremental (sp?). However, they're a blast to drive; moto






r is very torquey.
They usually blow a puff of blow smoke upon startup- that's normal. They also leak drops of oil  from the strainer- that's normal. There is a place in Indiana called PB Tweeks which sells lots of Porsche parts, prices are reasonable.
Good Luck.

Henry Ng
henryng@tellabs.com

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu (REAL LIFE?!?!  HA!!)
Subject: Engine Question : MG
Summary: Need advice on treatment of MG
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 20:45:12 GMT
Keywords: engine MG british car

I have a 1974 MG Midget.  It has the 1275cc I-4 and 4-speed (all dead stock
except for exhaust).  The 1275 is of course a 3-main-bearing engine.  The red-
line on the engine is 5500 or 6000 RPM.  The engine runs quite well, has never
failed to start (Since I replaced the SU fuel pump anyway :), and is
compressing about 120 psi in all 4 cylinders.

Now my question:  Since I have had this car, I have driven about 3000 miles
with no mechanical engine trouble.  Any car buffs or engine people out there
who could suggest the highest speed I can drive it on the freeway?  I know it
will run up to at least 75 MPH (4500 RPM) but is there a good guideline for
the max. RPM on that type of engine for long-distance driving?

Thanks in advance
MTC
-- 
Michael T. Chaffee        |******BOYCOTT COLORADO******|  ______    
mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu | Professional Slapthologist |  \    /     HATE
Member, Universal Life Church, Sect of Loons           |   \  /  can never be
Annoyance Theatre Platinum Member |     Evil Genius    |    \/  a FAMILY VALUE
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Re: new required dyno emissions tests / Re: New Gasoline Ripoff
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1992 01:12:16 GMT

In article <2086.88.uupcb@chaos.lrk.ar.us>, dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)  writes:
|> 
|> -> Anyone who drives a internal combustion powered vehicle contributes
|> -> to the world emmisions.  I am tired of all of this old car bashing as
|> 
|>  The largest single polluter in the world is the US Air Force.
|> Collectively, various manufacturing plants and power generation make the
|> USAF look like small potatoes.  Automobiles are actually rather far down
|> on the list.  The "zero emission auto" furor is mainly political.
|> Practically everyone is dependent on cars, so it brings the issues home
|> to the electorate, which usually gets screwed anyway.

The released data from the EPA shows that automobiles alone account for
about 30% of the CO emissions with another 20% due to light trucks and 
other on-road vehicles.  Stationary sources (manufacturing and power
generation) account for only about 25% and the rest is due to other
sources like forest fires, trash burning, etc.   Similar numbers are
reported for HC and NOx with cars and trucks being somewhat better in those
areas.  Is 30% rather far down the list?  (according to the press it is,
afterall they claim that Bill Clinton's 47% win was a clear mandate for
the Democratic ticket!-)

|>  There's also the raw fact that the majority of the world doesn't give a
|> rat's ass about pollution, and if the US miraculously stopped putting
|> out even a gram of pollution, it wouldn't make that much difference to
|> the world at large.

When you consider that the US consumes about 60% of the world's oil, it's
hard to believe we are not driving the train.  Also the other industrialized
countries (Germany, Japan, France, England, etc.) are beginning to turn
down the screws on their emissions as well.  

I don't buy this, cars aren't a big problem theory.  Besides, I have owned
several cars with the newer closed loop fuel systems and find that they are
actually better cars to own/run than those old simplistic carbureated ones.

Mark
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: cleaning/painting steel wheels
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 92 06:22:51 GMT


Jerry Sy (jxs18@po.CWRU.Edu) wrote:
: 
: I bought a set of used steel wheels for mounting snow tires.
: I want to get suggestions from the net as to how I can
: clean and paint the wheels.
: 
: will wire brushing it then spraying a can of steel wheels color
: spray paint be sufficient ?
: 
: thanks in advance
: jerry

Jerry,

You might want to bead-blast or sand-blast them instead.  There may be
a place that will rent you time in a blasting cabinet, and that would clean
it up quite nicely.  Trying to do a good job with a wire brush is just a
royal pain.  The blasting time shouldn't cost you more than 5 bucks a wheel.

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
Don't blame me; I voted for Perot!                hinzd@picard.med.ge.com 
SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.             Pherrets are Phun!!!
From: woodstock!scatlin@mcnc.org (Scot Catlin)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Tire replacement for a Saturn SL.
Date: 11 Nov 92 18:18:04 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, BNR-RTP


        I have a 1992 Saturn SL that needs new tires, and was
wondering if it's possible to put slightly wider tires on it.  The
stock is 175/70R14 and I'm thinking of going up 10mm on the width.
Has anyone out there considered this?  If so, what were your
conclusions?  I asked the service manager at the local dealer and he
said that you might have to worry about the tires touching inside the
wheel well.  Any comments.

        You can reply here in wreck.autos.tech, or just e-mail me at
the address below.  Thanks in advance for all comments.

                        Scot
                        ----

-- 
_______________________________________________________________________
|Scot Catlin            .  .  .  ************************.  .  .  .  . |
|Work      (919) 991-8763.  .  . * 1978 Kawasaki KZ650D * .  .  .  .  .|
|Home      (919) 490-1916 .  .  .************************  .  .  .  .  |
|Real Home (412) 421-5063  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  . |
|Internet: woodstock!scatlin@mcnc.org   .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .|
|______________________________________________________________________|
Organization: Doctoral student, History, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 14:22:30 -0500 
From: "Daniel U. Holbrook" <dh3q+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: Help: Where's fuel filter on V6 Fiero?

>I am looking for the fuel filter on a '87 Fiero, and I can't seem to find it.
>It's not where the shop manual says it's supposed to be.
>Maybe the net.wisdom can help me here... Anybody know where it is located?
 
For that matter, where is it on a 1990 Chevrolet Cavalier?  It is not in
any obvious place?

Thanks.

Dan
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech