HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: rrosen@pyramid.com (Randy Rosenberg)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Increasing power?
Date: 24 Jul 92 19:24:36 GMT
Reply-To: rrosen@pyramid.com (Randy Rosenberg)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Pyramid Technologies, Mt. View, California.


You could try 4.11's in the rear end.  It will definately help your
off the line and 1/4 mile times, yet it will destroy your highway 
gas mileage.  I don't think that trying to increase your horsepower
by swapping the intake manifold will help much.

You could try nitrous, but I think your need resides in the low end
area which lower gearing will give you.  If 4.11s are too much, you
could try 3.87 (I think, anyway it's 3.something-higher-than-07).

Good luck. and let us know what you do.

Regards,
Randy

In article <1992Jul24.133816.20347@bnr.ca>,  (Eric Youngblood) writes:
|> 
|> Does anyone have any ideas on how to increase the power produced by a
normally
|> aspirated V-8 engine?
|> 
|> What I've got is a 77 TA w/ the Pontiac 400 cid engine. It was
overhauled about
|> 10k miles ago which included a mild performance street cam (intake
.465 / 214 dur
|> @ .050, exhaust .480/224 dur @ .050). The heads had a "street-comp"
port and valve
|> job (whatever street-comp is?). It has forged aluminum pistons and
runs at 9.0:1
|> compression. The entire crank assembly has been balanced & bluprinted.
|> Its induction starts with the open scoop at the base of the
windsheild through a
|> K&N cotton/wire mesh air filter, Holley 650 vac sec "emission" legal
carb. It has
|> the original stock Pontiac manifold. The exhaust begins at 1-5/8"
Hooker headers
|> w/ 3" collectors and includes a crossover pipe. The dual exhaust is
2-1/4" and
|> uses high flow mufflers.
|> The TH350 is driven by the stock 1200-1800 stall torque converter.
The governor
|> is adjusted to provide WOT shifts at 5000 rpm. The power is
transmitted to the
|> wheels through a GM-posi 10-bolt 3.07 differential. Traction is provided by
|> Goodyear ST P235R15 radials. Track times indicate an extreemly
sluggish 60 foot
|> times in the 2 second range, 0-60mph is acheived in ~6.1 & 1/4 mile
at ~14.5 secs.
|> 
|> I would like to push the 0-60 time down into the high five second range and
|> hopefully reduce the 1/4 mile time into the low 14's is this possible or am
|> I about at the maximum for a "street" configuration.
|> 
|> I still have the original 800 cfm Q-jet on the shelf in working
order, it doesnt
|> get as good gas mileage as the Holley (currently 14mpg city/ 18
highway) but I
|> was wondering if the larger flow capacity would boost power? What
about intake
|> manifold? Are there any that give good low rpm torque but allow
better high rpm
|> breathing? Is there any evidence that synthetic motor oils can
provide a small
|> increase in mechanical efficiency?  
|> 
|> Any experience or suggestions appreciated
|> 
|> Thanks,
|> 
|> Ericy

        -m-------  Randy Rosenberg                  rrosen@pyramid.com
      ---mmm-----  Pyramid Technology Corporation   Voice:  415/335-8736
    -----mmmmm---  1295 Charleston Road  MV1-2-73   FAX:    415/986-8084
  -------mmmmmmm-  Mountain View, CA  94039         AMA# 643875
From: pshyvers@pyrnova.mis.pyramid.com (Peter Shyvers)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Chevrolet 2.3L bogs down ...
Date: 22 Jul 92 21:24:19 GMT
Reply-To: pshyvers@pyrnova.pyramid.com (Peter Shyvers)
Organization: Pyramid Technology Corp., Mountain View, CA
Originator: daemon@sword.eng.pyramid.com

In article <1992Jul21.205258.15210@usenet.ins.cwru.edu> bk629@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Eric K. Hatfield) writes:
>
>
>tTo my knowledge Chevrolet didn't put a 2.3 l in any Celebrity.  
>This is probably a 2.5 L commonly
>known as the "Iron Duke" .
>
You are right - it's the 2.5L.  Shows how much I get under the hood these
days.

*Something* in the  2.8L gives that engine a heckuva boost - what?
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk (Codesmiths)
Subject: Re: Shop Manual Advice: 88-Mercury Tracer
Cc: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Reply-To: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 1992 22:29:02 +0000


> Not to overly plug any product, but I have become a great believer in
> Haynes shop manuals.  They're British, which can make them a little hard
> to follow if you're not big on the Queen's English

> They're worth it for the wiring diagrams alone, IMHO.


Over in the UK, Haynes have a near monopoly on the service manual
market, so I use them because there isn't anything better.

   I like:

Plenty of photos.

Well written.

Good for beginners.

They have an English <-> Yank-Speak Glossary   8-)


   Gripes:

Very variable in depth. I have a number of Haynes manuals on similar
cars, some of which include details on more-advanced components,
others don't. If I want to work on the Triumph Herald overdrive, it
isn't described in the Herald manual, but it is described (for
exactly the same unit) in the Dolomite Sprint & LWB Ford Transit
manuals. Generally the older the manual, the more detail is included.
My favourite is my ancient E type Jag manual, about an inch thick,
which not only covers all likely parts on the car, but also explains
stuff like the basic theory behind torque converters.

They are *not* "all based on a complete strip-down". Very often
Haynes do the photography for one car, on the first base model
produced. If the manufacturer keeps this model & its derivatives in
production for 20 years, Haynes still don't rephotograph any of it,
even if major components are different. This is particularly annoying
if you buy a "sports" model of the car, which might have an uprated
braking system & totally different carburation - yet Haynes ignore it
completely.

Haynes over-use some standard sections. I can appreciate the need for
"the basic toolkit", "basic safety", "basic dent removal" & "how to
diagnose sparkplugs", but Haynes definitely over-use these. The only
colour photos in the manual are the sparkplug & dent photos - surely
other topics could benefit too.

The wiring diagrams are unreliable. They are based on manufacturer's
pre-production drawings, and often bear little relation to current
production cars. Sometimes they even just include the LHD
euro-diagram, which is a bit annoying for a British manual !

          Andy Dingley    dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: Carbon Buildup in engines ( valves ? ).....
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 92 07:32:13 GMT

jxt@calmasd.Prime.COM (Jawahar Tembulkar) writes:
: I am given to understand that cars can experience loss in power ( also
: knocking, oinging, etc., ) due to "carbon buildup".
: 
: A few fundamental questions:
: 
: * How can one diagnose if in fact there is carbon buildup ?
: 
Perform a compression test.  If the compression is substantially above
what your service manual says it should be, there's carbon in there.

: * What causes carbon buildup
:   [ I have heard some people say that if the overwhelming majority of
:     trips in the car is of short distance, the engine does not get up
:     to the optimum working temperature long enough to burn the carbon
:     which is a residue of internal combustion.  Is this correct ? ]

Bingo!

: 
: * Can it be prevented
:   [ Can regular long distance trips prevent carbon buildup ? ]

Yes!
: 
: * How can it be "fixed"
:   [ I have read on this newsgroup that taking apart at least part of
:     the engine, and subjecting the carbon deposit areas to "crushed
:     walnut shells" is the best way to remove the deposits.  Is this
:     really the cae ?  What would such a thing cost ?
:     Chevron, etc., sell a "Techron" based chemical which is supposed
:     to clean feul injectors, etc.  Would this help burn carbon
:     deposits ? ]

IMHO, the best way to clean the carbon off is to take a nice, long drive in
the country, preferably along winding, scenic roads.  After a few hundred
miles, you should notice the improvement.  I don't think injector cleaner
would do anything for you; I don't know of anything to pour in the tank that
will clean the carbon off.  It's either burn it away through driving, or
mechanically remove it.

: Jawa

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - you get what you pay for; you pay (and pay, and pay) for what you get.
hinz@picard.med.ge.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk (Codesmiths)
Subject: Re: Should I go to a mechanic?
Cc: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Reply-To: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 07:42:00 +0000


> My friend has a 91 Toyota Corolla which has developed this problem.
> When the door is closed there is a rubber lining which helps in making
> the seal. Once he accidently developed a crack (cut) in this lining.

A single cut shouldn't affect the sound insulation too much - are you
sure this is the cause ?

Cloth duct/gaffer tape will repair it for a year or so. To do it
properly, you'll need a new piece of door seal, possibly a whole
new doorful.

What you *don't* need is to go anywhere near Toyota, and pay
manufacturer's prices. This stuff is available from better auto-trim
shops, and is trivial to fit. Cut it to length and push it over the
ridge of the door frame (some types need little metal clips too).
There are many different sizes & shapes available, and provided you
pick one approximately the right size & shape, the precise details
don't matter.

          Andy Dingley    dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: eap@leland.Stanford.EDU (Eric Perozziello)
Subject: Re: How to use blue silicone RTV
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 92 01:16:44 GMT

In article <1992Jul27.203024.13274@mlb.semi.harris.com> jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger) writes:
>

[Most of a good article on gasket sealing tricks deleted]

> Next, or maybe first, attach the gasket to the piece that's off the engine
>(valve cover, water pump, what have you). Start by cleaning it as above.
>Then coat the sealing surface and the mating face of the gasket with the
>gasket goo of your choice. I prefer Permatex Liquid Copper for this phase,
>

One thing I'd add:
We used to use the following :  for the side of the gasket that
bonds to the removable part, the 3M yellow weatherstrip adhesive,
and for the side that DOESN'T remove, use permatex blue. That way,
when (if) you haveta take it apart again, the gasket will stick
to the removable part, so it can be wire-wheeled off.

This trick was used at our shop for many years (and I beleive still is)
and musta been used for tens-of-thousands of jobs with no problems.
Any sealing problems were related to other problems (as described in 
jws's article, non-flat surfaces, etc). 

I should add that I wouldn't use these sealers on any part that 
is in contact with raw gasoline, such as carbs. 

-Eric
From: craigb@sdd.hp.com (Craig Bosworth)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Redline MTL
Date: 29 Jul 1992 15:00:54 -0700
Organization: Hewlett Packard, San Diego Division
NNTP-Posting-Host: hpsdl136.sdd.hp.com

In article <1992Jul29.194907.139882@cs.cmu.edu> br@cs.cmu.edu writes:
>
>  Does someone have Redline's phone number handy?

Yup.  (800) 624-7958.
-- 
Craig Bosworth  (619) 592-8609
Hewlett-Packard, San Diego Division
craigb@sdd.hp.com
From: prmx@vax5.cit.cornell.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Silicone on my intake gasket?
Date: 28 Jul 92 09:16:42 EDT
Distribution: rec
Organization: Cornell University

Howdy all!

Here's another topic to add to the RTV discussion.

As previously posted, I'm preparing to do a head job on my '86 Taurus 2.5L.
The Haynes manual for my car says that I should use RTV when replacing the 
intake manifold gasket.  The Chilton's doesn't.

As a point of info, coolant is routed through the bottom half of the intake 
manifold on its way to the heater core.  The same gasket covers the holes for
both the coolant and fuel/air mix. 

To use the goo, or not to use the goo. That's the question.

Personally, I'm inclined to use the goo.

Thanks for your help.

Peter Morenus


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: eur@dutncp2.tn.tudelft.nl (Eur van Andel)
Subject: Re: Clutch replacement
Organisation: TU Delft, The Netherlands
Organization: Delft University of Technology
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 13:21:24 GMT

In <DENNIS.92Jul17134503@mr2.ece.cmu.edu> dennis@mr2.ece.cmu.edu (Dennis J. Ciplickas) writes:


>Hi y'all.  Its seems that my 75 Mercedes 240D (rear wheel drive) will
>need a new clutch soon.  I say this because the "active" region of the
>clutch pedal motion is very near the "top" of the pedal travel (i.e.
>not depressed much at all).  I do not feel any slack in the clutch,
>only a repositioning of the "active" region, but this is not
>surprising because my shop manual says that the clutch is
>self-adjusting.  Am I correct in my diagnosis?  Oh yes, I forgot to
>mention that it's hydraulic.

Do try to adjust the active region of the clutch: it should be possible.

Can you see the thickness ofthe friction material of the clutch
through an opening of the clutch housing?
Compare it with the original thickness.

Anyway, you should replace your clutch only when it starts to slip and
is beyond adjustment.

>My body manual (Mercedes, not Chilton) says to unbolt the propeller
>shaft, unbolt the transmission and remove it from the car, remove the
>clutch housing, etc.  The hardest part sounds like getting the
>transmission off the engine without dropping it and/or killing myself.
It is. 
>Does anyone have any hints or tips for this procedure?  I can borrow a
>hydraulic floor jack, and I've got two jackstands to prop the front
>end of the car up.
That should be enough. Get a lot of large wooden beams, and possibly another
jack. Be at least with three persons! 

It's no fun getting the >200 kg gearbox back in place!

The lowering of the gearbox is not the main problem, getting it back in is.

You must pay special attention to centering the clutch plate in the 
pressure group, but this surely mentioned in your Merc manual.

Let someone rev the engine while you look at the center of the clutch
plate, and center it as best as you can, _before_ tightening the pressure
group bolts. When you put the gearbox back in, it might help to rev 
the engine very slowly for one or two revolutions. That just might pop
the transmission aisle into place.

eur
From: jimv@hienergy.East.Sun.COM (Jim Vienneau  - Sun Microsystems)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Muncie M-20???
Date: 30 Jul 92 15:34:16 GMT
Reply-To: jimv@hienergy.East.Sun.COM (Jim Vienneau  - Sun Microsystems)
Distribution: na
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.  Mt. View, Ca.
NNTP-Posting-Host: hienergy.east.sun.com

I've been looking for a Muncie M-21 for my '67 Firebird and I came across an
M-20. I was wondering what they used these in. It's definately different
from the 21/22 line. The reverse lever is on the cover rather than the tail
shaft and the mount looks different. Anybody know where these were used?

 
--
Jim Vienneau, Sun Microsystems Inc - Billerica, MA
Email: jvienneau@east.sun.com   Amateur Radio: WB1B
Good old Ma Bell (well old anyway): (508)671-0372
From: mcostell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Malcolm G. Costello)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Front-wheel drive tire wear
Date: 30 Jul 92 16:33:01 GMT
Reply-To: mcostell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Malcolm G. Costello)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.autos.tech, mjsutton@bnr.ca (Michael Sutton P025) writes:
>The front tires on my 90 Dodge Caravan have worn out on the inside edges.
>The tires are basically bald on the inside and have developed scalloped
>areas.  Prior to this extreme wear condition I noticed an uneven surface
>on the inside edges; periodic bumps in the tire surface.
>
>I've heard that front wheel drive cars typically wear on the inside
>edges, and my other front-wheel drive car does wear-out first in this
>area.
>
>I've got about 37K miles on the tires.  I rotated them about every 8-9K
>miles.
>
>Do I have an alignment problem or just worn-out tires?
I would think it's an allignment problem. I have a 1988 Grand Caravan.
I rotated the tires *once* at about 10k. I had to replace the tires
due to an accident at about 41k but the tread wear was nice and even.
It's never a bad idea to do a front end allignment when you replace
tires anyway and some shops will give you a "deal" on the package.
In addition, and I'm not sure about this, the scallops may be due to
worn shock/struts?. I know that some tire stores have displays showing
certain wear patterns and what caused them so that's one way to check.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mack Costello <mcostell@oasys.dt.navy.mil> Code 1720.1       ?
David Taylor Model Basin, Carderock Division Hq. NSWC    ___/-\____
Bethesda, MD 20084-5000   Phone (301) 227-2431          (__________>|

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: HELP!! - '65 Olds 442
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 13:44:09 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL
Keywords: rear coil springs

 It handled well, but somebody says you have a busted coil spring?  ???
Something like that is usually noticeable. You know, like one side sagging
down. Does this guy have some he wants to sell?

 Some muffler shops will sell and install replacement springs, or heavier-
duty springs if you want. I think I was quoted $50-$100 a pair a while back.
I got some off a junk car instead. They're easy to pull. On the GM 4-link
you just have to remove the shocks and jack up the frame, and when the rear
falls far enough they drop right out (maybe have to kick them).

 If you can see an extreme difference in coil separation or angle, or a
visible crack then the spring may be bad. It's a very rare occurrence and
I've never seen a broken spring nor heard of one with anyone I know. It
could be that the spring perch and/or the shock mount have come loose or
broken a weld. I have an example of that sitting around. 
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
From: pwu@amalfi.ai.mit.edu (Peng Wu)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Timing belt replacement in a Sentra
Date: 24 Jul 92 18:03:27 GMT
In-reply-to: rjwade@rainbow.ecn.purdue.edu's message of 23 Jul 92 21:12:28 GMT


     >Timing belt off may or may not cause engine damage depending on the design of
     >the engine.  See the following old message for reference:
     >
     >=======
     >All Ford-built engines except the old 1.6L Escort are
     >free-wheeling (no damage possible from broken timing belt).
     >Note that the newer, 1.9L Escorts are free-wheeling.
     >
     >Tom Leone <tgl@slee01.srl.ford.com>

     what is this 'freewheeling'...if the belt breaks..are the valves not free
     to do whatever they want???

As I understand it, it means that it is impossible for a cylinder to hit a
valve because of a broken or out-of-phase timing belt.  Sufficient clearance
between valves and cylinders is all it takes.  When a timing belt breaks,
valves are not totally free to do whatever they want (a broken off valve may
have more freedom).  Valves stay or move to wherever the cam shaft dictates
them.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel)
Subject: 1975 Dodge Monico 400ci fouling plugs
Originator: howardr@hplsdum.col.hp.com
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 20:35:00 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division

I picked up this car with a plugged radiator which a trip to a radiator
shop cured.  It was overheating prior to the fix.

I got the car with 68K miles and drove it about 1K miles and the center
4 sparkplugs fouled.  I replaced the plugs and unhooked the choke which
I figured was part of the problem.  The car ran ok but not great.

About 2K miles later the center 4 plugs fouled again.  This time I
replaced them with Bosch platinum plugs and it does not run as well
as when I replaced the plugs the first time.

The car has leaves a soot ring on the driveway when it is started,
even when it is running ok.

The guy I bought it from live out of town a ways and put at least 10
miles of hiway driving on it whenever he started it.  We live in town
and some trips are as short as a mile.

What is wrong?

At first I guessed that the car was overheated to the point that it
ruined the rings in the center 4 cylinders but the plugs have a dryish
black deposite on them.  I seem to recall that bad rings will cause
a oilish wet deposite.  The car does not smoke and 3K miles ago it
passed polution control inspection with California emmisions.

The guy I got the car from said his uncle had a similar car and that
the center 4 ports on the intake manifold became partly clogged due
to bad design.  It seems that when these ports are clogged what
gass/air mixture that does get through to these cylinders are quit
rich (this seems to fit the condition of the plugs) and that the
outer four cylinders run lean.

I am quite unsure about this.  Where does the stuff come from to 
clog the ports (possibly the PCV valve)?  

When the car ran ok it did not miss but seemed a bit weak for a 400
but I live at over 6K feet and it is a low compresion engine.

Other then the above probem the car is in very good condition. 
It was owned by a little old lady (widowed mother of previous ower)
etc etc.
-- 
Howard Rebel hpcsos.col.hp.com 

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: carl@genie.slhs.udel.edu (Carl Devore)
Subject: Oil additives that seal leaks
Summary: Do they work?  Are they safe?
Organization: UDel, School of Life & Health Sciences
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 10:40:18 GMT

I put some Slick 50 (or a similar produxt, I'm not sure) in two oil changes
ago.  The engine is old, 190,000 miles (300,000 km), and I found out from of
recent posting that this may have opened up some leaks.  I'm seen some 
products that one adds to the crankcase for stopping oil leaks.  Are they
safe?  I'm not worried about losing oil, because the leak is only about
1 qt/1500 miles (1 l/2000 km), but I am worried about oil leaking into the
clutch.

I'm not really worried about long-term effects.  I only want to get a few
more thousand miles out of this car before I junk it.  It's not worth
replacing the clutch.
From: pshyvers@pyrnova.mis.pyramid.com (Peter Shyvers)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Clutch replacement
Date: 24 Jul 92 08:27:14 GMT
Reply-To: pshyvers@pyrnova.pyramid.com (Peter Shyvers)
Organization: Pyramid Technology Corp., Mountain View, CA
Originator: daemon@sword.eng.pyramid.com

In article <711939646.F00001@blkcat.UUCP> Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory) writes:
>
>by hex-head bolts that fasten from INSIDE the bell housing. You can of course
>use the transmission front shaft as an alignment tool (altho it is not
>particualarly convenient to do so, and plastic alignment tools and used
>transmission shafts are so available and cheap that it is hardly worth the
>effort). Once the driven plate is aligned and torqued down, you might as well

I hope by "effort" you mean supporting the tranny so that it NEVER, repeat,
NEVER hangs by the input shaft. It's surprising just how much leverage the
transmission has on the shaft, and how little a bend in the shaft translates
into beaucoup vibration. 

>tighten the tranny to the bell housing and slip the whole assembly into
>position; you might have to put the tranny in gear and turn the output flange in
>order to get the splines lined up right. 
>

Right!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech