HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: And now, more "Hometime" news
Date: 25 Jan 93 04:00:17 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

Michelle Stone writes:
>
>I am often completely ignored when I am looking at power tools and
>other construction type stuff.  I hate it.
>

If it is of any consolation to you, let me assure you that this particular
knife cuts both ways.  Almost universally, whenever I am shopping for one
or more of: curtains, bed linen, towels, and furniture, I am either treated
like someone who keeps my taste in a damp, unlit portion of my anatomy, or
more commonly, like someone who would go into anaphaletic shock if I was
shown anything with flowers on it.  I was once told, while mulling over a
few different style drapes, that I should come back with my wife.  I told
them that, should I someday wind up with one, I would return, and most likely
not a moment before!

Dave
-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
"I look back with some satisfaction on what an idiot I was when I was 25,
 but when I do that, I'm assuming I'm no longer an idiot." - Andy Rooney
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,misc.consumers.house
From: dhepner@cup.hp.com (Dan Hepner)
Subject: Re: Hardwood Floor repair
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 00:57:21 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: Hewlett-Packard
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8.2]
Followup-To: rec.woodworking,misc.consumers.house

From: worth@acuson.com (Douglas Worth)

>- In the water damaged part one of the boards is split length wise
>for about 16". We put as much weight (I knew there was a reason to
>keep all of those text books) as we could on the other parts. We are
>expecting to replace some of the boards in this section. The floor is
>2" oak strip and I do not think that it is tongue and groove because
>there is lots of nails in it. Is it possible to do patch work like this
>or are we crazy? 

Doing the wood part is easy, with 2" non-T&G, and fairly cheap.
You may find that a small drill will reduce nail splits when
nailing close to the end.  In the middle, get the right nails and
you don't need to drill.

>After we repair the damaged section we are planning to 
>sand and refinish it.

This is the tougher part, depending on what finish you
have.  If you're going to refinish the whole room, no
further problem.  If you were going to only finish the
damaged part, you may be in trouble depending on what kind
of finish you have.  Matching old Verathane with new just 
isn't possible to get right.  Water resistant stain finishes
can be fixed, but need to be waxed once in a while.

Dan Hepner
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Thu, 21 Jan 1993 11:05:51 EST
From:         "Lawrence E. Rondot" <RONDOT@IPFWVM.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Polycarbonate prices (was: Re: want to drill and thread holes)
              21 Jan 1993 00:10:34 GMT from <hollen@MEGATEK.UUCP>

On Thu, 21 Jan 1993 00:10:34 GMT Dion Hollenbeck said:
>>>>>> On Tue, 19 Jan 1993 20:44:27 GMT, gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
>said:
>
>Paul>    DON'T buy it from catalogs like Woodworker's Supply.  They overcharge
>Paul>    outrageously for this stuff.   Example:  recently WS was selling
>Paul>    approximately 10X10 Polycarbonate squares for $19.95.   Usually you
>Paul>    can pick up pieces like this out of the scrap bin at TAP Plasics and
>Paul>    pay $.50 a lb for it.   10X10" Polycarbonate at 3/8" thich would weigh
>Paul>    about 9 ounces...
>
>Well, maybe the TAP Plastics house is unusual.  We have a few here and
>I have been looking for 3/8" PolyCarbonate scraps on and off for
>about a year now, and no soap.  If you can find scraps, you are right,
>the prices are no comparison, but if you price polycarbonate, you will
>see that WS is right in line.  A 2'x4' sheet of 3/8" polycarbonate is
>$78.  That is 8 square feet for $9.75 per square foot.  You however
>were wrong about the size and price.  WS was selling nominal 12"x12"
>pieces (measure out at 11 7/8" square) for $14.95.
>

Thats about $0.10 per square inch.  I bought a chunck 8x10 three days ago
at a local plastic company for $7.50 or $.09 sq/inch.  Thats a pretty good
comparison when you look at the handling required to cut up a large sheet.

This place said that they don't have "scrap".  If their customer needed an odd
size they bought the next larger size and then it was cut to size.  The
customer got the scraps too.

Too bad.

>--
>Dion Hollenbeck                        Email: hollen@megatek.com
>Senior Software Engineer                      megatek!hollen@uunet.uu.net
>Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California    ucsd!megatek.uucp!hollen

Larry Rondot
Rondot@IPFWVM      - or -      Rondot@SMTPLink.IPFW.Indiana.Edu
From: ag900@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (David Burris)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Hey! Lets have a survey....
Date: 23 Jan 1993 01:15:50 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: ag900@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (David Burris)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc4.ins.cwru.edu


Tables... all kinds of tables.

I've been making mostly tables during the last year. Coffee tables, end
tables, night stands. Make 'em out of cherry,maple,oak,ash and walnut.
Not all in the same table, of course, but sometimes I do mix a couple of
woods together. Picture frames take up of lot of my time as well.
Sometimes I just can't keep up with the demand, like now for instance.
Come this spring or summer, I'll turn to making a whole bunch of kitchen
cabinets and doors for same. 
Keep that sawdust coming.....


Dave

-- 
ag900@cleveland.freenet.edu
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Table Saw Experiences
Date: 24 Jan 93 16:31:22 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <4320156@hpcc01.corp.hp.com> gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz) writes:
>Steve Bellovin writes:  
>>In article <4320147@hpcc01.corp.hp.com>, gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz) writes:
>>>   The magnetic switch is not the solution for your problem, Steve.

>>>   You problem is the location of the switch, not the way it functions.

>>I understand how it works.  My previous posting was a bit too brief; let
>>me explain a bit more.

>   Again, I feel the need to point out that a magnetic switch is not 
>   necessary for this.

Steven also wants the advantage of the saw staying off if there's a power
failure, then a restore.  It's independent of the switch location/size
issue.  However, since you can't do his "big button" trick with the toggle
switch on this unit, he can kill two birds with one stone - build
the magnetic switch with two push-buttons, one to start the unit, the
other to stop it.  Furthermore, the magnetic switch arrangement allows
you to use normal momentary contact pushbuttons - mechanical latching
pushbuttons are failure-prone (or rather expensive) in this sort of
application.

Restated: he'd have to replace his switch anyways to put in a big
panic stop button.  He can double his functionality by using a magnetic
switch unit.

As far as cost goes, doing a magnetic switch for a table saw should
be relatively easy - mount the components inside the saw (preferably
in a weatherproof box of some sort) plus a small hole for the reset
pushbutton.  Given that you obtain a good quality properly rated
relay ($20-$30?) the total cost should be well under $50.  While
you could probably make a cheaper one with a triac, the reliability
of a relay would be superior in this application.

I'd leave the original switch in the saw as the security kill switch
(presuming that the contractor's saw allows you to detach the toggle
like most of Delta's other tools).
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: worth@acuson.com (Douglas Worth)
Subject: Old Table Saw
Keywords: table saw
Organization: Acuson; Mountain View, California
Distribution: rec
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 21:39:07 GMT

I have a very old table saw. i.e. belt driven. The problem is that 
the shaft for the blade is 1/2". Every 7 1/4 blade I can find has
a 5/8" knock-out in it. I do have on reducing bushing, but I am
worried that if I loose it then the saw will be use less. Does
anyone know where I could get a bag of these little guys?

Any help would be appreciated.

(I will be posting a summary of the answers to my Shopsmith V
question later next week)

-- 
x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x
Doug Worth   --  worth@acuson.com (worth@sono.sun.com, ..!sun!sono!worth)
                 415-694-5653
From: ddeutsch@bbn.com (Debra Deutsch)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: NYW bashing; was 'HOMETIME'
Date: 22 Jan 93 23:50:21 GMT
NNTP-Posting-Host: bbn.com

rlz@svl.cdc.com (Robert L Zalusky) writes:

>ddeutsch@bbn.com (Debra Deutsch) writes:

>>>Personally, I would want to see the tool girl and how he keeps the 
>>>cobwebs out after the sawdust gets everywhere and ...

>>What is a tool girl?

>>Debbie Deutsch

>I didn't intend to be sexist just humorous and was making an
>offhand comparison to Home Improvement and all "those calendars".
>--
>The opinions expressed are my own.  Computing Devices International(CDI)
>is not responsible or knowledgable about them.

>Bob Zalusky
>Internet:               rlz@svl.cdc.com
>Phone:                  (408) 496-4374
>Fax:                    (408) 496-4106

The problem with email is its sometimes hard to know what is intended
to be a joke.  Anyway, it's good to know that your remark was well
intentioned.  Shake?

One day I was visiting the president of a small company.  He wanted to
strike up a business relationship with me and the company where I
work.  He was showing me around, explaining all the spiffy equipment
they had (to work on optical devices).  Then we got to the
metal-working shop.  There, on the wall above a lathe, was a calendar
with a big, full-color (are there any other kinds?) picture of a naked
women.  (Well, if she was wearing anything, it wasn't immediately
obvious.)  I pretended not to notice, but he was SOOOO embarrassed.
He started apologizing.  And apologizing.  It was hard to know what to
say.  I finally settled on something like a shrug and "well, it's not
exactly the first one of those that I've seen".  Then I asked him a
question about the stuff he'd been showing me.

I wonder if the calendar was on the wall the next day? :-)

Debbie
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Cheapo router bit mishap
From: rcbi27@marshall.wvnet.edu (DBRUM)
Date: 21 Jan 93 19:02:53 -0500
Organization: Marshall University

I thought I'd report another bad experience I just had with a cheapo carbide
tipped router bit. 

I was using a two wing slot cutter, 1/8", in some white oak when the peice
of wood got jammed and was promptly torn from my hand and rocketted across
the garage right in front of my face. It was a small piece of wood, and I
consider myself very lucky for not having it adorning my forehead at this
moment. But equally fortunate am I for not having been embedded by the
tiny carbide tip of one of the wings of the slot cutter, which became
detatched during the process and now rests lord only knows where--perhaps 
it is stuck in the deep, ragged gouges running down the side of the piece of
tough wood, I'll have to check.

I can however report--after having intelligently modified my feed mode
after the mishap--that the cutter cuts just as well with only one intact
wing. Some of you might remember last time when I reported that a cheapo
carbide router bit, a 1/4" straight type, shattered unaccountably and
ruined a fine Porter Cable router by the broken pieces falling down into
the armature (it was underslung on a router table) and breaking the device's
fan blades.

I'm not trying to sound like a spokesman or anything. For all I know, the
non-cheapo carbide router bits may be just as breakable. Due to budgetary
considerations (ahem), I have not tested these as amply as the cheapos. 
Those powerful routers produce a lot of torque, and I guess when push comes
to shove, something's gotta give.

--

"I laughed one time and they
were on the phone to the Man."  --Cool Hand Luke
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: wilson@schaefer.math.wisc.edu (Bob Wilson)
Subject: Re: thickness planer minimum (thinness planer?)
Organization: Univ. of Wisconsin Dept. of Mathematics
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 93 20:41:57 GMT

wilson@schaefer.math.wisc.edu (Bob Wilson) writes:
I don't know how to fool our news reader into sending all of a
message, apparently: Let's try this again...

I have successfully planed cherry and walnut to less than 1/16" on my
12" Grizzly planer. (The wood was for my daughter to use as
wainscoting (sp?) in a doll house.) I resawed to something like 1/8"
and then held that to a piece of 3/4" ply with 2-sided carpet tape. It
worked fine.


>I first tried a block of plywood with thin guide rails glued on and a
>"foot" glued on so that I could just lay down the piece to plane and
>it would be pushed by the foot and held in line by the rails. I
>wanted to avoid having to fool with the tape. That method
>resulted in what people here have called "explosions" almost every
>time. The wood really needed to be held down by the tape. I was afraid
>I would be unable to pull the planed wood off the tape without
>splitting, being so thin, but that worked very well. In fact the thin
>wood is so flexible that the tape/wood sandwich bends and that helps
>break the adhesive bond.

>This tape is cheap and works well and I recommend this method... While
>I am quite happy with the Grizzly planer I see no reason this method
>wouldn't be just as good with others.

>Bob Wilson
>wilson@math.wisc.edu
From: kl@cveng120.veheng.det (Keith L)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Plans for "triangular chair" wanted.
Date: 25 Jan 93 21:45:46 GMT
Reply-To: kl@cveng120.veheng.det
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.

In article 93Jan22100613@igloo.geosc.psu.edu, sak@geosc.psu.edu (Sridhar Anandakrishnan) writes:
:^O___Hi, I am looking for plans for those triangular chairs that were
:^O___backless.  Popular 10+ years ago.  You set your rump on a cushion near
:^O___the apex of the triangle (ouch! :-) ) and your knees rested on a
:^O___cushion near the floor.  Anybody know what I am talking about??
:^O___
:^O___They were touted as good for posture and back problems.
:^O___
:^O___Much appreciated.
:^O___
:^O___Sridhar.

Sridhar, 

I  too have been looking for plans for a chair of this type for the last year or so and have not found any plans.  An office furniture retailer here in Detroit, MI had one on display that was made of laminated wood .  This gave me some ideas on how to design and construct my own chair.   Unfortunately, I have not created any designs that I could share with you.   I plan to customize my chair to my measurements and fabricate some sort of rough prototype for comfort evaluation before committing to a final de


sign.  


Keith L.
From: bryan@isrc.sandia.gov (Jon R Bryan)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: 9.6v/12v cordless drilss
Date: 25 Jan 93 15:44:13 GMT
Organization: Sandia National Labs, Org. 1600, Albq., NM

smb@research.att.com (Steven Bellovin) writes:
: In article <1993Jan22.214413.27851@slcs.slb.com>, weissborn@DFWVX1.DALLAS.GEOQUEST.SLB.COM writes:
: > Anyway, anyone have any opinions on either of these or maybe
: > even the Panasonic or Porter-cable(12v)?
: 
: I have the Panasonic 9.6, and I'm utterly delighted with it.

I bought the 9.6V Panasonic from Highland Hardware with an extra
battery.  It may be the most useful tool I own.  The way it drives 4"
screws, I wonder why anyone would need the 12V version.  Mine is the
1-hour charge version.  Since I can't discharge a battery in an hour it
works out just fine.  The chuck and clutch work great.  In short, a
beautiful tool, and well worth the money I paid for it.
-- 
Jon R. Bryan	(505) 844-2015	<=>	bryan@isrc.sandia.gov
Sandia National Laboratories, Intelligent System Sensors and Controls
From: wagner@mala.bc.ca
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Cutting plexiglass
Date: 22 Jan 93 11:11:39 -0700
Organization: Malaspina College

In article <dubin.727550682@spot.Colorado.EDU>, Mark W. Dubin writes:
> With regards to cutting plexiglass:
> 
> The obvious problems are chipping and melting due to heating from
> the cut.  As others say, fine rather than course blades help with
> the chipping.  I would not use a table saw on very thick pieces,
> it's too hard for the heat to dissipate.  A band saw at slow speed
> or even a few minutes by hand are better.  A trick a machinist taught
> me is to use kerosine as a cooling lubricant while cutting.  It does
> not mar or melt the plastic.
> 
> One can polish plexiglass as if it is a fine hardwood, using fine and
> then very fine grits and finishing up with plexiglass polish and/or
> scratch remover for the final step.  I get mine from a commercial
> plastic distributer.  It comes in consumer size bottles and is
> probably also available from good hardware stores.  I am always
> surprised at how well it works.
> 
> --the ol' professor

I cut both aluminum and plexi on both my chop saw and my table saw by a liberal
application of bees wax.  I get mine in a cardboard tube from my fine woods sup-
plier.  I use a hollow ground "fire tooth" plywood blade.  (it's also useful for
the bandsaw as I find it keeps the blade from jamming on tight radiuses).  Just
start the unit and rub it on the sides of the blade.  Cut a little into the tube
to fill the teeth and cut away.  Seems to keep chips clearing and keep heat down
at the same time (By aluminum, I don't mean sheets, only bar and other stocks).
-- 
73, Tom
================================================================================
Tom Wagner, Audio Visual Technician.  Malaspina College Nanaimo British Columbia
(604) 753-3245, Local 2226  Fax (604) 755-8742  Callsign VE7GDA

I do not recyle.....   I keep everything!       (All standard disclaimers apply)
================================================================================
From: lcw@cci632.cci.com (Lori Wershing)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: help with jointer adjustment
Date: 28 Jan 93 03:11:51 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Northern Telecom, Inc. - Network Application Systems

I'm posting this from my wife's account and don't often have a chance
to go through all that's posted....so please reply direct.  If this
generates much interest, I'll summarize and repost.   
I recently got a Delta Rockwell 4" jointer which came with no manual
so I'm not sure how to adjust it.  It joints fine until the end of the
board.  When the end of the board comes off the infeed table, the 
blades take a bite out of the end of the board (1/32" greater in depth
over the last 1/2" or so).
Can this be adjusted out or might I be improperly using the tool?  If
anyone has a manual I can buy or copy, please let me know.

Thanks ...  Steve. 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: badboy@netcom.com (Jay Keller)
Subject: Re: Forstner bits...
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 19:07:06 GMT

Speaking of Forstner bits, did anyone catch the big wooden fitted box of
them that Norm used this week?  He pulled out a 2-incher from a case that
held an enviable collection.  He was making the holes for the 2" dowel
holding together the halves of the turned posts on a bed.

Just droolin', as usual...

Regards,
Jay Keller
Sunnyvale, California
badboy@netcom.com

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: corwin@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (carl.w.smedberg)
Subject: Re: Table Saw Experiences
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 14:52:01 GMT

In article <1993Jan22.225302.26714@hpcvusn.cv.hp.com>, kam@apollo.HP.COM (Keith Marchington) writes:
> In article <1993Jan22.204107.16467@cbnews.cb.att.com>, jrm@cbnews.cb.att.com (john.r.miller) writes:
> |> > 
> |> As a followup, does any know the differances between Delta's Contractor's
> |> saw, cabinet saw and Unisaw? The cabinet saw looks a lot like a Unisaw --
> |> I just wonder if it is the same inside.
> |> 
> |> 			John Miller
> 
> 
> One poster mentioned, but I have not confirmed it, that the Cabinet
> saw is a contractor saw mechanism (trunions, arbor, single belt drive)
> in a "Unisaw -like box."  And it has a 2hp 220v motor.
> 
> Keith Marchington


So is the tilting arbor saw really just a contractors saw mounted
on a box with cast iron table extensions? The only difference
in the motor is the size and voltage requirements?

Thanks
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stevep@sparky.se.hou.compaq.com (Steve Pinn)
Subject: Re:      Cutting Plexiglass
Reply-To: pinn@cpqhou.se.hou.compaq.com
Organization: Compaq Computer Corporation
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 16:41:11 GMT

In article <1993Jan19.213631.7883@Princeton.EDU>, biz@soil.NoSubdomain.NoDomain (Dave Bisignano) writes:
|> Cutting on the table saw is fine, it won't melt
|> unless you go too slow.  You can buff the scratches
|> out with Noxon(sp) (brass cleaner)
|> -Dave

I agree, cutting on a tablesaw should present no problem.  A fast way
to finish the edges is to quickly pass over them with a propane
torch flame.  Obvious cautions, of course, should be observed.

Steve
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: afmartp@lims02.lerc.nasa.gov (PETE MARTIN)
Subject: Re: Hey! Lets have a survey....
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: ORGANIZATION??...Who has time to be organized?
Distribution: na
Date: 27 Jan 1993 08:25 EST  

>> ... I'd like to start a new
>>thread:  I'd like to hear about the projects that everyone is
>>working on, just finished, or is planned for the future.

I am very near to completing an oak vanity for our master bathroom which 
I have been attempting to find the time to re-do for the past year.  I 
made the vanity, a combination mirror-light panel-medicine chest, and a 
small decorative shelf, all for the bathroom.  Now I just have to do the 
tile regrouting in the bathroom, and the painting and I can install all 
the above and move on down to the basement playroom I was asked to do next!

***************************************************************************
* Pete Martin                                                             *
* NASA Lewis Research Center                                              *
* Cleveland, OH                                                           *
* (216)433-8731         afmartp@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov                      *
***************************************************************************
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Planer Questions
Date: 27 Jan 93 16:20:21 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM writes:
>
>I bought a jointer before I owned a planer.  Then I had to buy the planer to 
>make
>up for the thickness differences created with the jointer... So much for the 
>cheap route...

I don't understand - how does jointing affect the thickness of the wood?  Or
were you using the jointer to face plane?

Dave
-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
"I look back with some satisfaction on what an idiot I was when I was 25,
 but when I do that, I'm assuming I'm no longer an idiot." - Andy Rooney
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-VMS-To: IN%"WOODWORK%IPFWVM.BITNET@pucc.Princeton.EDU"
MIME-version: 1.0
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Thu, 21 Jan 1993 08:08:00 -0800
From:         RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM
Subject:      Re: Plans for futon frames?

I'VE SEEN A FEW FUTON PLANS; BUT, WHAT IS AN L-STYLE FUTON?

                        RON TYE
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking