From: aviator@athena.mit.edu (Joakim Karlsson)
Subject: Buying an Entry Level Mountain Bike (long)
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.marketplace
Summary: Draft
Keywords: Entry Level Mountain Bike (mtb)
Organization: Flight Transportation Associates, Cambridge, MA
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 17:48:36 GMT

Here is an article I wrote for the net to help the neophyte
mountain bike (mtb) shopper.  This is a draft version, so please
do not distribute it.  The final version can be distributed,
subject to certain limitations.

I'm posting this draft version to solicit comments on my
ideas, particularly the technical aspects.  I'm very new
to the hobby, so it is likely that I've misunderstood a thing
or to.  I could even be convinced that I have no idea what
I'm talking about, in which case I'll dump the article entirely.
If there's anything I've forgotten, I'd like to know about it
as well.  Comments regarding style, spelling, and grammar are
also welcome.

Although the article is geared towards the US market, the basic
ideas should be applicable no matter where you shop, hence
the "world" distribution.  After some consideration I also
decided to cross-post to "rec.bicycles", since the split doesn't
seem to have stabilized yet.

Please e-mail comments to aviator@athena.mit.edu - thanks! ...Joakim

--- CUT HERE ---

Buying an Entry Level Mountain Bike [DRAFT - DO NOT DISTRIBUTE]
-----------------------------------
by Joakim Karlsson (aviator@athena.mit.edu)


Introduction

What follows below are my personal thoughts on buying an entry
level mountain bike (mtb).  I felt compelled to write this
because I could not find one concise source of shopping advice
when I set out to by my first mtb.  When I ventured into my first
bicycle store I was struck by the vast number of makes and models
available.  I recently heard that there are over 850 models on
the market.  A quick look through Mountain Bike Action (MBA)
magazine's 1992 Buyer's Guide reveals more than 30 manufacturers
of entry level mtbs.  Not only that, I was surprised to learn
that there are new models each year, just like in the car
industry.

I wasn't quite sure how I was going to narrow the field down to
one bike, so I decided I had to do a little bit of research
first.  Judging by the number of netters asking about buying an
entry level mtb, I thought other prospective buyers could benefit
if I shared my results.

Consumer Reports stated in their 1991 mtb article that mtbs
accounted for more than half of all bicycle sales in 1990.  I can
only guess that the entry level mtbs constitute the largest share
of overall mtb sales.  Hence, the entry level mtb is probably the
most widely sold bike right now.  Yet, when you look at magazines
and other sources of information, this segment seems to be
neglected in favor of mid-level and competition class mtbs.  I
have yet to find a magazine, for example, which caters to
recreational mountain biking.

About the author: I am by *no* means an expert on bicycles. I'm
planning on exposing this article to more knowledgeable bicycle
aficionados before releasing it in its final form.  If nothing
else, the technical aspects should be accurate.  At the time when
I began writing this, I had owned my bike for less than a month. 
Even though I ride it practically every day the weather and my
schedule permit, almost exclusively off-road, I'm by all accounts
still a novice.  In short, I consider myself a member of the
average mtb consumer category.

Please keep remembering that everything in here represents my
personal opinion.  Mentally insert "in my opinion, " in front of
every sentence if you have to...  Even when I write "you should",
it's still only a reflection of my personal feelings. 
Occasionally I quote outside references, in which case it's
someone else's opinion.

The Entry Level MTB

My definition of the entry level MTB was somewhat influenced by
cost concerns.  The key was to define the price range in which I
would get a bike which was of good quality and would be suitable
for a novice rider, while not buying more bike than I could take
advantage of.  Initially I thought the $300-400 price range would
be appropriate, but when I learned of the compromises found in
the lower end of that price range I upped it to $350-450.

Advice #1: Plan on spending at least $350 for a good quality
entry level mtb.  I don't think a novice rider would gain much by
spending more than $450 for an entry level bike.

There seems to be two general philosophies in buying an entry
level mtb: (1) Buy a cheapo bike and use it to figure out what
you really need/want, and then upgrade; (2) Buy a more expensive
bike because it really will be better and last you longer.  In
the end, I chose option (2), and decided to buy into the $450
range instead of the $350 range.  However, this choice will vary
from individual to individual, and some will wish to spend less
than $350 or more than $450 for their first bike.

Riding Needs

Before you put down any money, think long and hard about why you
want to buy a mtb.  Are you going to commute, ride
recreationally, exercise, compete?  How often will you be riding? 
Off-road or on-road?  Wide flat trails, technical single-track,
or downhill?

Advice #2: Carefully evaluate your riding needs before buying.

Your needs may change as you shop around and get more acquainted
to mtbs, especially if you haven't ridden them in a while.  If
you've never been out on a trail before, go rent bikes and take
them off-road.  Off-road riding is a very different sensation
than on-road riding.  Try both hybrids and mtbs.

It seems popular to bash hybrid bikes these days.  MBA writes:
"We have never understood the hybrid market: To us they are just
other types of inexpensive mountain bikes that usually lose their
compatibility with either dirt or road environments as they
attempt to be efficient in both."  True, the hybrid represents a
compromise and is probably not as good on the trail as a mtb and
not as good on the road as a road bike.  However, for most
riders, I think they would be perfect.  They're more than
competent on both roads and trails.  For someone who commuting,
urban environments, and occasional trail riding, I think they
would be ideal.  My wife's hybrid is certainly a lot more
pleasant on the road than my mountain bike.  The counter-argument
goes something like this: Any bike can be ridden on a road, but
you really need a specially designed bike to ride on trails.

I'm only dealing with mtbs in this article - I just want to
comment that the hybrid bike is a great idea.  Make sure you
really want a mtb when maybe a hybrid would better suit your
needs.

References

Before starting venturing out into the stores you may like to do
some reading.  Try the following:

Bicycle Guide 1992 Buyer's Guide, March 1992 [? - I don't have a
copy of this]

Mountain Bike Action 1992 Buyer's Guide, May 1992 [lots of good
articles on buying a mtb]

"Mountain Bicycles", Consumer Reports, October 1991, pp. 650-655
[also reprinted in the 1992 annual guide]

Note about Consumer Reports: Occasionally I hear complaints about
Consumer Reports' reviews of bicycles and accessories (they've
only done three in recent years).  True, they're not going to
have the expertise of a competition bicyclist, a bike mechanic,
etc.  Sometimes they tend to emphasize features which are pretty
trivial, while neglecting more important issues.  On the other
hand, I think they do a reasonable job in representing the needs
of the average consumer.  Also, it is one of the few sources that
contains a description of many bikes, complete with ratings.  My
greatest complaint with their mountain bike report is that they
did not compare equivalent bikes from a price/performance
perspective.  As a final note, be aware that the Consumer Reports
ratings weigh on-road performance heavily.  This is because the
average consumer's mountain bike never gets used on trails...

Advice #3: Read as much about mountain bikes as you can lay your
hands on.  It will make you a more informed buyer.

One good reason to read about mtbs is that you will learn the
jargon, and be able to actually understand what the dealer is
saying.  It especially helps to be familiar with the mtb
nomenclature.  In fact, sections of this article will be
difficult to appreciate if you don't know the names of the parts
of a bike.  When you're talking to dealers, ask whenever they say
something you don't understand.  I sometimes pretend to know less
than I do, just to hear what the dealer will say...

Shopping

Visit many many many bikes stores.  The quality of the store is
important for a number of reasons.  Bikes arrive at the store in
boxes and require assembly.  The quality of initial assembly will
greatly affect the overall quality of the bike.  Proper assembly
requires skill, experience, and training.  More importantly, good
assembly takes time, and time and labor represent costs to the
store.  Hence, the $429 bike assembled quickly may not be a
better deal than the same bike for $449 assembled with lots of
tender loving care.

I haven't quite figured out how to judge quality of assembly -
ask people who are familiar with the store you're shopping at.  A
basic check is to ensure that the wheels are true (a quick and
dirty test is to spin the wheels to detect any noticeable
wobble).  Other things to look out for are play in the headset
and crankset (there shouldn't be any), paint scratches, or other
evidence of use.  Look at the specifications in the
manufacturer's brochure and make sure you're getting the
components you are supposed to.  Just talking to the store
workers helps give you a feel for the quality of the store.  I'm
a strong believer in customer relations, and I'm willing to pay
good service.  The one store that really impressed me in this
respect is Poulin Cycles in Augusta, Maine (but I haven't spent a
penny there).

Try many many many bike models.  Within a given price range, the
quality between different manufacturers does not seem to vary all
that much.  Given that the bike meets your riding needs, the most
important criteria should be general fit and level of comfort. 
It can take a while to notice differences in frame geometry and
components, which is why you should ride many bikes.  Also, once
you've narrowed down your choice to a few candidates, ride each
of them several times.  It helps going to a big store with a
large selection since you can do side-by-side comparisons of many
brands there.

Most likely you will be test riding the bikes in the dealer's
parking lot.  This is a poor substitute for a rough trail
("gnarly single-track" in mtb lingo).  Try to at least to ride
the bike over grass - see what the dealer will let you get away
with.  Before buying a bike, see if you can do an extended ride. 
Fifteen to twenty minutes should give the bike a good work-out. 
Be a responsible consumer - unless you're paying for the bike,
don't do anything to it that you wouldn't want done to your brand
new mtb.

I'm not going to discuss how to find the right size or fit.  The
MBA 1992 Buyer's Guide has a good article on this.  You'll often
find that the right sized frame is not available on the floor
when you go shopping.  Don't test ride a different sized frame,
it will be completely different.  If you do have to ride a
different size, go for the next smaller size.  The best thing to
do is to call the store in advance and ask them to build up the
bikes you want to test in the right size (this might take a few
days).  This is perfectly normal, and you should not in any way
feel compelled to purchase a bike because you've made the store
build it up for you.  Your purchasing decision should be made
based on an overall consideration of issues such as bike quality,
store quality, and price.

All manufacturers have brochures describing their bikes. 
Although they're products of the marketing departments, they
contain lots of useful information, so ask for them.  Bridgestone
in particular has a very nice catalog with lots of useful and
entertaining reading.

Advice #4: Visit many stores, ride many bikes, ride the final
candidates many times; always in the right sized frame.

Prices

My experience has been that, in general, you get what you pay
for.  The more money you spend, the higher the quality and
durability will be.  However, as discussed before, there is an
upper and a lower limit, depending on your riding needs and
skills.

Profit margins on bicycles tend to be low, but they are higher on
maintenance and accessories.  If the price of a bike seems too
good to be true, it might very well be.  If prices for the same
bike vary a lot between individual dealers, it may be an
indication of hasty assembly or other short-cuts.  However,
dealers are occasionally able to discounts certain bikes.  Also,
you'll generally find lower prices at the stores with high sale
volumes.

If there is a discrepancy in prices between two similar bikes
from different manufacturers, there might be compromises in the
design of the lower priced bike that you haven't noticed.  For
example, the Mongoose Hilltopper has better shifters/derailleurs
than many bikes in the same price range.  However, it uses lower
quality brakes and levers, and the stays are high-tensile steel
instead of chromoly.  I'm not saying it's not a good bike, but
this is typical of the trade-offs manufacturers will adopt to
sell bikes.

Sometimes manufacturers misjudge the demand for a given model. 
If too many bikes are produced, they may get discounted, and you
could find a good deal on a high quality bike.

One way to get a good deal is to buy left-over models from the
previous year.  There aren't all that many changes from one year
to another.  I see no reason not to buy a new bike from the
previous year.  The only problem with this is that you may not
find the specific model or size you're looking for.

Advice #5: Don't shop for price, shop for quality.  Price should
be one of many factors influencing your purchase, not the driving
one.

Specifics to Look for in a Bike

As I mentioned earlier, what's most important is that you feel
comfortable on the bike.  This is such a subjective criterion
that it is difficult to say much about it.  The bike should feel
right, should ride smoothly, shift crisply, etc.  Try shifting
through all the gears and use the brakes to make a simulated
panic stop from a low to moderate speed.  Try to ride one bike
and then another one immediately afterwards, this helps
accentuate differences.

There are some specific items to look for in an entry level mtb. 
The frame should preferably be chromoly, which offers good weight
and strength properties for recreational off-road riding.  For
any mtb over $350, you can expect that at least the main frame
will be chromoly.  However, some of them will have high tensile
steel stays or forks.  This is normally acceptable for the
recreational rider - high tensile steel stays in particular
should not cause any concern.  However, it will make your bike
slightly heavier and/or weaker.  It's not always clear from the
manufacturer brochures if the entire frame is chromoly or just
the main tubes, so make sure you check on this.

Standard chromoly tubing has uniform thickness along the length
of the tube, whereas butted tubing has variable thickness. 
Butted tubes are thicker in high stress areas and thinner in
other places, allowing for a better strength to weight ratio. 
Heat treatment is another method used to improve strength.  Heat
treated butted chromoly frames seem to be standard for higher
priced entry level mtbs.

Another issue is oversized tubing.  Larger diameters allow for
thinner tube walls, supposedly improving the strength to weight
ratio.  Oversized tubing also increases stiffness.  However, from
my readings it seems that this may be more of a marketing ploy,
especially when it comes to oversized forks.  It has been
suggested that the real issue here is to make the bike
practically unbreakable, presumably to limit liability and reduce
the number of frame warranty cases.  Certainly there are some top
notch bikes out there with normal tube and fork diameters. 
Bridgestone makes a good case against oversized tubing in their
brochure.

I'm a big fan of quick release saddles and wheels, and you'll
find that most mtbs in the $350-450 range have them.  Saddle
comfort is an issue, but on trails you should keep your weight on
the pedals, not the seat, so it's not that critical.  Padded
shorts help considerably in this respect.  Also, saddles can
easily be replaced.  In general, if there is a specific component
you don't like, ask if the dealer will replace it.  Often this is
not a problem, but if you put on a more expensive component,
expect to pay the difference.  Easily replaced items include the
saddle, seat post, tires, grips, toe clips, pedals, and handle
bar (a little bit more cumbersome).

Some mtbs have the shifting and rear brake cables routed over the
top tube, to avoid dirt which gets splattered all over the down
tube.  I can attest to the fact that any cable which is routed
the conventional way, below the down tube, will get dirty from
the trails.  I don't know how much of a problem this is - I just
wipe of the mud after every ride.  I don't know if there are any
drawbacks having the cables routed along the top tube.

Tires and wheels come with different threads, construction
techniques, thicknesses, appearances, rims, etc.  This is an area
I know relatively little about, so I won't say much.  My bike
came with anodized, black rims, and black walled tires.  This
tends to give the bike a "heavy" look, if you care about such
things.  The black rims wear down to a silver finish after a few
off-road rides, so don't get too attached to them.  Marketing
gimmick if you ask me.  Remember that tires are very easy to
replace, so if you don't like what your bike comes with, swap
them with something else.  Look at the tire thread pattern - if
it is continuous along the centerline of the tire it will
generally provide a smoother ride on pavement.

There are two specific components which I think are "must haves"
on any mtb which is actually going to be used off-road.  The
first is a sealed bottom bracket.  The bottom bracket does get
dirt, mud, and water over it, and having a sealed mechanism will
really reduce maintenance requirements (in a similar vein, a
sealed headset is also nice, but not as important since it is in
a location less exposed to the mud).  The second item is
replaceable chainrings.  On the low end of the entry level mtb
range, there are bikes which feature a one piece chainring and
crankset assembly.  Hence, if you damage one tooth on one
chainring, you'll have to replace the entire thing.  It makes
much more sense to me to have chainrings which can be replaced as
necessary.

Shifters/Brakes

I haven't found a single entry level mtb which does not have
either Shimano or Suntour shifters and derailleurs.  Brakes and
brake levers come mostly from Shimano and Suntour, but
occasionally other names are found such as Dia-Compe, Proponent,
and Lee-Chi.  While brakes are a vital component, I don't think
you will be able to detect much of a difference between
manufacturers.

The choice of shifters and derailleurs is an issue of much
debate.  Once again, it boils down to personal preference, but
there are marked differences in quality.  Essentially there are
two types of shifters on the market today: Overbar index shifters
with friction option (one lever) and underbar index shifters (two
levers with pushbutton shifting).  The stated advantages of the
former are lower weight, less complexity, and the ability to
revert to friction shifting if the system should be knocked out
of alignment.  The stated advantages of the latter include ease
of shifting and position of shifters.  Less common types of
shifters include grip shifters and wishbone levers.

Denouncing pushbutton shifters seems to be as popular as bashing
hybrid bikes.  The editors of MBA magazine for example, will
gladly indulge in either.  Try both and see which you like, and
just be aware of the advantages and disadvantages of each.  I
think pushbutton shifters really help the recreational rider
(including myself).

On entry level bikes, the most common Shimano components (in
order of increasing quality and price) are 70GS, 100GS, 200GS,
300LX, 400LX, and 500LX.  Entry level Suntour components have
designations like XCT, XCU, and XCM, but I don't know the order
of price and quality.  Personally I prefer the entry level
Shimano components over the equivalent Suntour equipment, but try
it out for yourself.  As another data point, Consumer Reports
prefers Suntour over Shimano.

Color

Most entry level mtbs come in one or two color schemes.  Color is
obviously a personal preference.  A darkly colored bike does not
get noticeably hotter in the sun (well maybe it does, but it's
never bothered me), so I can't really see any preference for any
particular color.  Multi-color and fancy paint schemes cost a bit
more, so expect a compromise somewhere else or a higher price.

Personal Recommendations

[Remember what I said in the beginning about personal opinion. 
It's particularly applicable to this section]

I often see prospective buyers ask for specific recommendations
on the net.  Well, the "correct" answer is it depends on your
needs and how each bike feels to you.  Nonetheless, there are a
few manufacturers which have impressed me with their quality
and/or philosophy, and whose bikes were pleasant to ride.  Their
bikes became my final candidates once I had narrowed down the
selection.  Possibly I'm just a victim of shrewd marketing - I'd
certainly like to hear what other people think.  These
manufacturers (and their best entry level mtb under $450) are
Specialized (Rockhopper), Bridgestone (MB-6), Bianchi (Ibex),
Giant (Iguana), and Trek (830).  For what it's worth, these bikes
were all within the top seven in the Consumer Reports ratings. 
Additionally, I noticed that on a 1990 or 1991 cover of MBA
magazine they stated that the Schwinn High Plains was the best
entry level mtb they had ever tested.

The one bicycle that impressed me most in terms of value for
money, was the Bridgestone MB-6 ($379.95 around here). 
Unfortunately, I personally didn't like the Suntour shifters and
derailleurs it had.  I strongly recommend you try it out for
yourself, however.

Accessories

Thought you could get away with just spending $400 on a bike? 
Some initial accessories are necessary if you want to enjoy the
hobby to its fullest, some others can be added later.

I strongly recommend the following:

Helmet (try on many different ones, they all feel differently).
Water bottle and cage (many dealers will throw this in for free)
Under seat tool bag (Giant makes a good one with two compartment
and good tools; everything you'll need except a patch kit and a
spoke wrench)
Tools: Allen wrenches, screwdriver, spoke wrench, and chain tool
(or buy a multi-purpose tool like the Cool Tool)
Patch kit or spare tube
Frame pump or CO2 system
Toe clips and straps (must have for efficient off-road riding)
Gloves (padded and with terry cloth strips)

Other good accessories include:

Padded shorts
Eye protection
Second water bottle and cage
Bike lock
Cycling computer
Cycling shoes

There are lots and lots of other things out there.

Upgrading?

This has little to do with entry level mtbs, but I found that
once I had bought my bike I kept thinking about what bike I could
upgrade to next.  I'm dreaming of something in the $750-850
range, preferably under 27 lbs.  I'm impressed by the following
bikes: Specialized Stumpjumper, Bianchi Peregrine, Bridgestone
MB-3, and Giant ATX-770.  If anyone has any comments on these
bikes, I'd like to hear about it.  Look for "Buying a Mid-Priced
Mountain Bike" by the same author in a few years...

Comments? Questions? Complaints?  I'd like to learn more about
mtbs, the market place, and the industry.  Please e-mail to
Joakim Karlsson, aviator@athena.mit.edu.  Thanks!

--
Joakim Karlsson            | aviator@athena.mit.edu
Flying Fanatic in Training | Air: PP-ASEL  CAP: Freedom 110 Mobile  FCC: N1JHW
                 "Oh, I have slipped the surly bonds of earth
                And danced the skies on laughter-silvered wings"