HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: kl@cveng120.veheng.det (Keith L)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: 9.6v vs 12v cordless drills
Date: 22 Jan 93 17:50:39 GMT
Reply-To: kl@cveng120.veheng.det
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.

In article 93012209055777@IPFWVM.BITNET, ALEX@NKI.BITNET (Bill Alexander) writes:
:^OOn Thu, 21 Jan 1993 19:56:09 GMT Greg Tollefson said:
:^O>I am looking into cordless drills.  What is the performance gain by
:^O>going to the 12v cordless.  The cost adder is 20-30%.  Can both
:^O>handle 3" drywall screws into 2x4's?  Any other WOW.
:^O>
:^OMy Panasonic 9.6v drives 3" screws with ease. 9.6's also tend to be a few
:^Oounces lighter than 12's. Those few ounces can add up after a long day of
:^Osheetrocking.


The key advantage of the 12v drill is the added torque produces.   Driving 3" drywall screws into pine studs is not a problem for most of the 9.6v drills  I  use but driving 3/8" dia. 5" long lag screws will clearly demonstrate the added power of the 12v drills.   In any case, if I were going to drive a lot of screws I would not abuse my cordless drills but would use a corded drill or, preferably, a drywall gun that is more suited to the task.  
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jeb26@cas.org (;A/nG)
Subject: Re: Hey! Lets have a survey....
Organization: Chemical Abstracts Service, Columbus, Ohio
Distribution: na
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1993 02:42:47 GMT

In article <WOODWORK%93012212041503@IPFWVM.BITNET> HUNTRESS GARY B <HUNTRESS@NPT.NUSC.NAVY.MIL> writes:
>Ok, I'll start.  I'm in the middle of constructing the Shaker wall
>clock featured on NYW two seasons ago.  If it comes out ok its
>going to be a wedding gift.
>

Project(-2):  bookshelves
Project(-1):  waterbed
Project(+0):  dining chairs.  And I have a question that I'm sure the net can
help me with.  I worked up a model of my own design and was set to commit to
it when I spied a rather attractive chair in #15 Woodsmith (May, '81).
(Incidentally, the staff of Woodsmith numbered all of 5 back then.)  For the
seat the plan calls for 1/2" plywood scored with several shallow kerfs to
permit the center to bend downward.  The seat forms and retains this
cupped shape by riding on correspondingly shaped streachers, front and
rear.  the seat is attached by means of an 'L' shaped clip which is
bolted to the bottom of the seat and to the streacher.  (I hope you can
get the picture without forcing me into ascii drawing.)

On top of the seat one is to place 1" foam and cotton batting, all covered with
an appropriate fabric.  additional pieces of narrower batting is to be placed
in the center of the seat so that when the seat is attached to the streachers
and cupped, the extra batting in the center will keep the fabric on an even
horizontal plane.

It just seems to me that I'm going to have a devil of a time getting the
fabric to be taut and wrinkle free after first assembling the plywood/foam/
batting with the plywood flat, and then bending it.

I'm guessing that this seat technique is not uncommon and some of you have
some pointers and advice.

thanks, jim

jeb26@cas.org
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: clarke@watson.ibm.com (Ed Clarke)
Subject: Re: Table Saw Experiences
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 18:43:37 GMT
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center

In article <dxp3g9k@rpi.edu>, ameres@ithaca.cat.rpi.edu (Eric Ameres) writes:
|> In article <1k3hn9INN1sr@CS.UTK.EDU> hethmon@hydra2a.cs.utk.edu (PAUL HETHMON) writes:
|> >Do you have a model number or name for this item?
|> Is this the "Uniguard" that is mentioned in many mail order catalogues?

Not exactly, it's a "New Uniguard" and costs about $100 more (250 list).  It
is a new product that is not generally available yet.  I just bought the old
UniGuard from WoodWorkers Supply.  The splitter is not on the guard, it is a
pop-up thingie that goes where the old guard used to attach (so it follows
the blade when you tilt it).
From: games@max.u.washington.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Restored drill presses
Date: 27 Jan 93 10:08:58 PST
Organization: 
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: max.u.washington.edu

In article <1993Jan25.160417.18465@microsoft.com>, stevenj@microsoft.com (Steven Johnson) writes:
> 
> Some time back, I posted a note about buying restored older drill presses
...
> 
> There are other outfits (curiously, they all seem to be in Vermont) that
...

Well, there is the guy who advertizes in FWW (at least some of the older
issues) that is in Olalla WA (Yes, the Vashon, Fauntleroy, Southworth ferry, and
a 1/2 hour drive.) 

I think the company name is northwest woodworking tools or something like that.

This guy restores all of the old tools.  He has 50" resaw bandsaws with 10,000
fpm blade speeds.  He has 16' lathes (yes, 16' long beds with a 40" swing)
but he also has all of the other stuff too.  When he gets an order, he strips
the machine totally down, rebuilds and repaints every part, and then ships it.

A little on the pricey side, but he has tools of quality that will still work
as good as new when your great great grandchildren start to use them.


(BTW, stevenj, if you are ever in west seattle, you might come by my house,
and see my drillpress, It is an anderson brothers, articulating head with a
rotating table that I bought from dave miller in lynwood.  Dave is the guy that
makes most of the underwater chainsaws that are around.  (he refits them to run
on air.)



			John.

So, in any case, they are not ALL in Vermont.
From: biggersc@memstvx1.memst.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Table Saw Experiences
Date: 25 Jan 93 09:43:40 -0600
Distribution: usa
Organization: Memphis State University

In article <1993Jan25.145201.7504@cbfsb.cb.att.com>, corwin@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (carl.w.smedberg) writes:
> In article <1993Jan22.225302.26714@hpcvusn.cv.hp.com>, kam@apollo.HP.COM (Keith Marchington) writes:
>> In article <1993Jan22.204107.16467@cbnews.cb.att.com>, jrm@cbnews.cb.att.com (john.r.miller) writes:
>> |> > 
>> |> As a followup, does any know the differances between Delta's Contractor's
>> |> saw, cabinet saw and Unisaw? The cabinet saw looks a lot like a Unisaw --
>> |> I just wonder if it is the same inside.
>> |> 
>> |> 			John Miller
>> 
>> 
>> One poster mentioned, but I have not confirmed it, that the Cabinet
>> saw is a contractor saw mechanism (trunions, arbor, single belt drive)
>> in a "Unisaw -like box."  And it has a 2hp 220v motor.
>> 
>> Keith Marchington
> 
> 
> So is the tilting arbor saw really just a contractors saw mounted
> on a box with cast iron table extensions? The only difference
> in the motor is the size and voltage requirements?
> 
> Thanks

>>>Yes, John, I can help a little.  The contractor saw is belt driven with
>>>the motor sticking out the back. The weight of the motor is resting on
>>>the belt to give it tension.
>>>
>>>The unisaw which I assume is the top of Delta's line is a direct drive
>>>(not belt driven) with an enclosed cabinet below the saw.  The other 
>>>saw which Delta puts out has a "Unisaw-like box" is like the Unisaw
>>>but with less "horses"...also, Delta puts out a "Unisaw-like box" with
>>>a tilting arbor saw.

>>>Most people who have the UNISAW by Delta are very proud of their  
>>>possession!  I feel good to have the contractor's saw by Delta.  The
>>>cost differential is a factor in my selection!
>>>
>>>The newest model of the Delta Contractor's Saw has a very good fence....
>>>much better than it had before.  It is a positive smooth locking fence.
>>>The drawback which is a pesky problem with the Contractor's Saw is the
>>>"hidden switch"....I almost feel that Delta was trying to keep the 
>>>user from finding the switch.  This feature can be dangerous when trying
>>>to hold down a board and turn the switch off at the same time!
>>>
>>>If you would like I can get the model numbers and prices for you later 
>>>in the week.
>>>
>>>"We" people from Tennessee are very proud of Delta and Delta products!
>>>
>>>    <grin>


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: munoz@bcstec.ca.boeing.com (David Munoz)
Subject: Re: Table Saw Experiences
Organization: Boeing Computer Services
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8]
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 19:38:17 GMT

: As a followup, does any know the differances between Delta's Contractor's
: saw, cabinet saw and Unisaw? The cabinet saw looks a lot like a Unisaw --
: I just wonder if it is the same inside.

: 			John Miller

On a Delta Unisaw, the arbor mechanism rests on the base, 
independent of the table.  On the Cabinet and Contractor's
saw, the arbor mechanism hangs from the table.  The Unisaw
is substantially heavier than the other two.

David Munoz
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Ryobi (was Re: Planer Questions)
Date: 27 Jan 93 16:16:56 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

Mark Williams writes:
>SOME RAMBLINGS ON BUYING A SMALL PLANER
>
>Now came a dilemma:  I wanted a tool I could live with.  It had to work 
>well and be durable, and I knew I would want to get parts for it.  
>I felt the Ryobi was the best choice technically, but it had unknown
>reliability and poor dealer support in my area.  I must add that I have
>the Ryobi joiner (JP155), and have loved it but had a hard time getting 
>new knives for it.  


I have found it to be a pain to get almost anything for Ryobi tools.  I like
them, don't get me wrong.  But two recent items have caused me great pain:

1. I dropped my ROS, causing the sanding pad to bend, which in turn resulted
   in a wobbly action.  Trying to get a replacement has been near impossible.

2. I bought a laminate trimmer, and wanted a template guide (listed in the
   instruction manual).  Again, noone has them.

Basically, I'll have to go way out of my way to a place that will order them
for me (won't take plastic over the phone - cash only, please) and wait
several weeks.  Considering that so many places carry Ryobi (Sears and Home
Depot, to mention two), you'd think that parts and accessories would be
easier to come by.

Dave
-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
"I look back with some satisfaction on what an idiot I was when I was 25,
 but when I do that, I'm assuming I'm no longer an idiot." - Andy Rooney
From: JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.BITNET (Jeff Roberts)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Forstner bits...
Date: 21 Jan 93 16:35:09 GMT
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
              19 Jan 1993 13:46:23 -0600 from <kroth@SUNSHINE.KODAK.COM>

On Tue, 19 Jan 1993 13:46:23 -0600 David Kroth said:
>Anyone ever used a forstner bit in a hand held electric drill?
>What were the results like?
>
>I need to drill a 1 3/8" hole for a clock movement (a mini clock
>from Clockit).  I am willing to spend $20 for a forstner bit
>but not $300 for a drill press.  If I buy the bit, will it even
>be useable?
>
>Dave KRoth
>kroth@kodak.com

Forstners seem to take more pressure to get them to bite into the wood as
opposed to a twist bit, but no problem other than that.  I like to rock
the drill back and forth to plow out more material and then keep is flat
just before I reach the finished depth..
Jeff Roberts JROBERTS@UTDALLAS
From: grun@intellistor.com (Paul Grun)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Hey! Lets have a survey....
Date: 25 Jan 93 01:02:30 GMT
Organization: Intellistor, Inc.

Not too long ago, I completed a cradle for my baby 
boy.  Came out quite well, too, if I say so myself.

Right now I'm trying to finish up a small boat,
called a pram, that I started several years ago.
It got caught in the moving shuffle, and now
that we're all settled, I'm finishing it off.

Next will be either/or a shaker style table for the
front hall, or a toy box.  Or both.

-Paul

-- 

goes to show, you don't ever know...
grun@intellistor.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jmiller@irus.rri.uwo.ca (john miller)
Subject: caring for teak furniture
Organization: University of Western Ontario, London
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 18:53:16 GMT

I have a teak dining room set that is being use a lot and I am
unsure of how to care for it.  The table is veneer with a solid
teak edge, the chairs are solid teak and most of the hutch is
veneer.  Fortunately there hasn't been any serious damage yet
but I have two young boys who love to bang utensils around so
there is a significant chance I will have to remove dents and
gouges in the future.  Any advice on regular maintenance and
repair would be appreciated.

E-mail directly and I will summarize and post if there is 
sufficient interest, or post to r.w; I read it everyday,
I even look forward to it!

thanks   John Miller
jmiller@irus.rri.uwo.ca


Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-VMS-To: IN%"WOODWORK%IPFWVM.BitNet@pucc.PRINCETON.EDU"
MIME-version: 1.0
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Thu, 21 Jan 1993 12:17:33 -0500
From:         "Wile E. Coyote" <BBHULSEY@LIFE.UAMS.EDU>
Subject:      Re: Makers name-stamps

Greetings!

>In article <1993Jan21.015429.19440@cc.uow.edu.au> pdunster@cc.uow.edu.au (peter
>dunster) writes:
>
>   Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
>   Path:
>linus.mitre.org!linus!think.com!ames!haven.umd.edu!uunet!munnari.oz.au!sol.deak
>in.OZ.AU!news.cs.uow.edu.au!cs.uow.edu.au!cc.uow.edu.au!pdunster
>   From: pdunster@cc.uow.edu.au (peter dunster)
>   Keywords: name-stamps
>   Organization: University Of Wollongong
>   Date: Thu, 21 Jan 93 01:54:29 GMT
>   Lines: 21
>
>   Due to the shortage of complex moulding planes here "down under" I have
>   taken to making my own, after all, didn't all 18th century apprentices
>   have to make their own tools?!   So far all has gone well and I am building
>   up a set of planes modelled on their 18th and 19th century counterparts,
>with
>   one small omission....no makers stamp!
>
>   All Planemakers and Cabinetmakers of the last two centuries had a metal
>stamp
>   with their name on it to stamp into the end-grain of the planes to show that
>   they made and/or owned the tool. Today I cannot find anyone who could make
>   such a thing (without paying $x00's)!
>
>   So, he asks coyly, does anyone "up there" know of anyone who can make a
>   rubber stamp out of metal, without charging like a wounded bull!
>
>   Many thanks for reading my plea
>
>   Cheers
>   Pete
>
>   pdunster@cc.uow.edu.au
>Don't know what you think is $x00, but most of the catalog tool
>suppliers have that item. Woodworker's Supply charges $33 or $ 49 for
>their branding irons ($49 is electric). Two lines of type , you tell
>'em what you want and wait 6 weeks. I'm pretty sure you can get better
>prices. Check the ads in woodworking mags.

Woodcraft has comparable prices to this, maybe a few bux off one way or the
other.  I don't have the catalog with me right now, but I'd be happy to check
the price.  Drop me a line if you're interested.

.......
:  o/ : Bruce Hulsey
: <|  : Univ. of Arkansas for Medical Sciences
: / > : internet: bbhulsey@life.uams.edu
:.....: bitnet:   bbhulsey@uams
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Need dado insert for old Rockwell table saw
Date: 21 Jan 93 21:07:25 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

Steven Bellovin writes:
>
>That's not always feasbile.  On my father's Craftsman saw -- over 35
>years old, and still purring -- the throat plate is (as I recall) 1/8"
>steel.  That's very thin for a home-made wood version, especially since
>most (all?) of the support is at the ends, not at the sides.

Horsehockey, Steve!  I have what I'll bet is the same saw (the 
description of the plate fits to a T) and made a perfectly serviceable
plate out of 1/4 inch luan, with a routed lip to get it flush with the
table.  Works just fine.  Where there's a will, there's a way!

Dave
-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
"I look back with some satisfaction on what an idiot I was when I was 25,
 but when I do that, I'm assuming I'm no longer an idiot." - Andy Rooney
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: sk@westford.ccur.com (Sheldon Kolansky)
Subject: Re: Hey! Lets have a survey....
Organization: Concurrent Computer Corp.  Westford, MA
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 13:24:20 GMT

Well...

I just finished coffee and end tables.  They were both based on the
Woodsmith plans, but slightly modified.

The coffee table was changed to be hexagonal, with the top made of
pie shaped peices of oak ply with the grain radiating from the center.

The end table was virtually the same as the plans except the top was
made from 4 pie shaped peices to match the coffee table.

If you try to do this, don't do what I did on the end table!  On the
coffee table I glued the border to the triangle (table top segments)
and then cut both at one time to get a nice straight line.  I started
the end table the same way, and when I went to cut the triangle
segments, I realized that the angle of the plywood is not 45 and the
angle of the border is 45. (the table is rectangular not square)  It
made the project MORE difficult.

Sheldon
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mlord@bmers63.bnr.ca (Mark Lord)
Subject: Re: workbench height
Organization: BNR, Ottawa, Canada
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 93 15:17:37 GMT

In article <1k46ggINNe2d@early-bird.think.com> steveo@think.com (stephen anthony) writes:
>
>In thinking about the design of a workbench for myself, I quickly decided 
>on the width and length. However, the height dimension seems a little 
>more difficult to figure out. I thought I'd see what net.wisdom had to
>offer for ideas.

Another consideration I neglected to mention:

	It is also *very* convenient to ensure that the benchtop height
	is less than the height of any nearby stationary machinery tops,
	such as the work surface of a tablesaw.  If the benchtop is higher
	than a nearby tablesaw/jointer/bandsaw/drillpress/planer.. then it
	could interfere with stock positioning/feeding for those tools.

	Of course, if your shop is *huge*, this is probably not an issue.
From: msi@ESD.3Com.COM (Mark Isfeld)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: workbench height
Date: 28 Jan 93 18:49:35 GMT
Distribution: usa

mcarey@cbnewsb.cb.att.com (michael.e.carey) writes:

>I am thinking of having a bench that is about 24" high to use as
>an assembly area for larger projects.  Has anyone ever had a use
>for a very low bench?  I am fairly new at this an can be talked out
>of the low bench if net wisdom insists.  Most of my work has been done
>on benches 30-32" in hight and I have used a make-shift bench with
>saw-horses because at times, the 30" bench was to high.  

I am new at this too, and have found a low bench quite handy.  I made two
toolboxes for storing tools while remodelling my house.  They are 4' by
18" by 18" tall.  I have lately been putting a bench top 30"x60" on top
of one of the tool boxes for a low (about 20") bench for use in the garage
during woodworking.  I like it.

I have begun to plan a workbench pair in my head.  I consists of a low
bench on wheels that can nestle under the taller (fixed?) bench.  The
taller bench would be about 30w 72L 36h, and the shorter one 24w 60L 20h.  
I would fit drawers for tools wherever possible.

One other Idea I had was to provide a "Tool shelf" about 9-12" below
the workbench top, and the exact same size.  It would be used for putting the
tools I am using on that project, but don't need right away.  It would hold
larger tools than a tool trough.  I haven't seen this in any books I've seen
yet.  How do other people handle all the various tools they use during a 
project.  My bench clutters up.  Do others actually put them away, even
though they are going to be needed a couple of hours from now? Do others have
several benches?
--
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Mark Isfeld   
| Mark_Isfeld@3Com.com                     
| 408-764-5167
From: walsha@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com (It ain't what they call you, it's what you answer to. -Bill Clinton)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: What wood goes well with Birch-veneer ply?
Date: 26 Jan 93 14:30:04 EST


I love birch venner ply. Does anyone have any ideas on an
common wood to use for trim if you like the look of natural wood?

-- somthing that goes well with birch or stains the same shade.

thanks for any info.
   andy.
From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 19:54:56 GMT
Subject: Re: Planer Questions
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

jaz00@diag.amdahl.com (Joe Zuk) writes:
>
>I am think about buying a planer sometime this year. I have a few          
>questions that I can not seam to find a sales man that can answer them.      
>Hopfully someone in net land can.                                          

  I will do my best...
>                                                                           
>What is the thinnest wood you can make with a portable planer? (1/8, 1/2)  
>Where I buy my wood they will only go down to 1/2, they say there planner  
>will just eat up anything smaller.                                         

    It is possible that if they have a big, older machine, it won't go 
    any smaller than 1/2.  

    My Delta portable 12" planer will easily go smaller than 1/2.  I have
    planed down to 3/8 without chattering.  I haven't tried smaller.
>                                                                           
>Why does the Mikia (sp) cost so much more than the Delta?                  

    I don't know.  I think it is a rip.
>                                                                           
>Does anyone have a jig that would set the wood on its side so that you     
>could use it as a joiner?                                                                           
    Sorry, can't help you here.   I would rather have a jointer and make
    it act like a planer than vice-versa.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking