HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: raj@sunset.gsfc.nasa.gov (Raj Ramlagan)
Subject: Car Radio
Organization: Goddard Space Flight Center, Greenbelt, MD
Distribution: rec.audio.car
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 19:13:17 GMT



Hi,

The radio in my car(NISSAN Sentra) puts out mostly static whenever i
go over a bump.  I've tried re-installing the thing but that did'nt
work and I've checked all the cables.  Looks like a problem inside the
radio.  Can't afford a CD and I don't need a cassette deck (too much
hassle to tape CD's) so I'd like to get a good car radio.  Anyone
knows where I can find a good car radio, just a plain old good radio,
no cassette. I figure this should be less costly than buying a radio
with a cassette deck.  Thanks in advance.

Raj
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: mgarber@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Max D Garber)
Subject: Re: Alarm for carjacking
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 15:54:16 GMT

Yes, flooring it would do it, just make sure to duck down low-but not so that
you can't see!
-- 
THE HYPEMAN.
1983 Pontiac 2000 SE   1983 Honda Nighthawk 650   DECEMBER 12,1992
   "BABY BOOOM"             MINT CONDITION         "TIE THE KNOT"
 'SYSTEM FOR SALE'      "FOR SALE"-Best Offer!     ^^Any Advice?^^
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: jsc52962@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Jeffrey S. Curtis)
Subject: Re: capacitors
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 15:35:58 GMT

In article <1dluskINNrdq@bigboote.WPI.EDU> walkerr@bigwpi.WPI.EDU (Robert A Walker) writes:
}Does anyone out there know what size capacitor i should use to cut out 
}the frequencies below about 100 or 200 htz?

200uF inline with your speaker will give you an xover point of 200hz under
a 4 ohm load with a -6dB slope.

Jeff
-- 
Jeffrey S. Curtis sidewinder@uiuc.edu | "Resplendent and full again, they revel
 The Power of 37  free2207 at uiucvmd | in their role as self-appointed critics
"To be great is to be misunderstood." | of the establishment..."
"Insist on yourself - never imitate." |   -- INXS _Welcome to Wherever You Are_
From: philip@hpsgrt1.sgp.hp.com (Philip LOH)
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 08:59:48 GMT
Subject: testing
Organization: APCD, Hewlett-Packard Singapore
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car

testing
From: milligan@netcom.com (Michael Milligan)
Subject: Car Stereo FORSALE
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 23:00:55 GMT


FORSALE FORSALE FORSALE FORSALE FORSALE FORSALE FORSALE 

SoundStream TC-308 car stereo  $250 or bo
   AM/FM Cassette, CD ready, seperate Bass/Treble, Playtrim
  Dolby B &C, Metal, Loudness, excellent pre-amp deck
  Pullout

Precision Power PPI-4050 car amplifier( 2 )  $200/each or bo
  230watts RMS, 150 mono + 80 watts stereo, bridgable
  electronic crossover

Kicker Mids $25/pair or bo
  4inch

Cerwin Vega 10" woofer( 2 ) $75/each or bo

MB Quart 2" tweeter( 2 ) $55/each or bo

All items, you pay the shipping.
Entire package for $900 + shipping.

FORSALE FORSALE FORSALE FORSALE FORSALE FORSALE FORSALE 
-- 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-  Michael Milligan, Jr                                    milligan@netcom.com -
-                                                                              -
- "Behold, I stand at the door and knock. If anyone hears My voice and opens   -
-  the door, I will come in to him and dine with him, and he with Me."         -
-                                                              Revelation 3:20 -
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: laflisc@wkuvx1.bitnet
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: How do I make a Sony Changer work with Integra Factory deck
Date: 10 Nov 92 19:02:54 GMT
Organization: Western Kentucky University, Bowling Green, KY

In article <1dmm6iINN8to@agate.berkeley.edu>, vincent@garnet.berkeley.edu (Vincent J. Lee) writes:
> Ok, I just bough a used changer CDX-a30. My local stereo store told me that
> there is a din output and plug to make it work. However, I have to buy a 
> controller which costs $119. Is this plausible? Can the din module work 
> to make it go straight through to the controller or is this not true?
> Another store told me I have to get an Fm modulator because the gain and volume
> control won't interface correctly because there is no controller. Let me know.
> thanks.
> 

Ok Vincent, let me see if this will help,
	I have a Sony CDX-A40RF.  I think this is justa step up from
your changer but Im not sure.  The "RF" means, guess what, radio freq
or something like that.  I had it running thru a fm modulator to an
Alpine 7380.  It would come thru at 88.3.  The controller took the
antenna from the car and sent one to the head unit.  As for volume
and all that, it was all controlled by the Alpine.  The changer was
controlled by a neat little display that had an IR controller.  It has
all CD controls, next track, fast search...., and two kinds of
shuffles.  I am pretty sure it would control your changer if you want
to run something like this.  I keep on saying was because I recently
broke down and bought a Sony head unit that would control the changer. 
It is the 7070 or something like that.  I still have the fm modulator
if you would like to try it and maybe possibly buy it.  Just write if
you do.

					hope this helps,

						Scott
					    laflisc@wkuvm1
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: ehawrysh@bnr.ca (Evan Hawrysh)
Subject: Re: Car Alarm Help!
Reply-To: ehawrysh@bnr.ca
Organization: Bell Northern Research Ltd
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 92 13:06:35 GMT

In article 1696@niktow.canisius.edu, jarvis@niktow.canisius.edu (Daniel Jarvis) writes:
> 
> 	I used only the negative door trigger wire for current sensing
> since my hood & trunk both run off of that while installing my K-9 alarm.
> The alarm thinks that something is still open when actually everything
> is shut tight, therefore it will not work in the active mode.  Anyone
> who is familiar with these alarms have any suggestions?  They would
> be greatly appreciated...
> 
> -------
> jarvis@niktow.canisius.edu

I know nothing about the K-9, but:

What kind of car is it? Fords have +'ve triggered pin switches for their
doors. If you installed -ve triggered pin switches for only your hood and
trunk and they are the only things on that circuit, you should be ok. 
I gather you know that already, so going for the obvious, have you verified
the pin switches are getting closed or are even working correctly? It's possible
you got a bum pin switch. Disconnect them and see if you can arm it.

Hope this helps,

Evan


Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: genocide@hale.cts.com (Gary Danko)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: How do I make a Sony Changer work with Integra Factory deck
Date: 9 Nov 92 21:10:07 GMT
Organization: Hale Telecommunications Inc.

laflisc@wkuvx1.bitnet writes:

> In article <1dmm6iINN8to@agate.berkeley.edu>, vincent@garnet.berkeley.edu (Vi
> > Ok, I just bough a used changer CDX-a30. My local stereo store told me that
> > there is a din output and plug to make it work. However, I have to buy a 
> > controller which costs $119. Is this plausible? Can the din module work 
> > to make it go straight through to the controller or is this not true?
> > Another store told me I have to get an Fm modulator because the gain and vo
> > control won't interface correctly because there is no controller. Let me kn
> > thanks.
> > 
> 
> 	I have a Sony CDX-A40RF.  I think this is justa step up from
> your changer but Im not sure.  The "RF" means, guess what, radio freq
> or something like that.  I had it running thru a fm modulator to an
> Alpine 7380.  It would come thru at 88.3.  The controller took the
> antenna from the car and sent one to the head unit.  As for volume
> and all that, it was all controlled by the Alpine.  The changer was
> controlled by a neat little display that had an IR controller.  It has
> all CD controls, next track, fast search...., and two kinds of
> shuffles.  I am pretty sure it would control your changer if you want
> to run something like this.  I keep on saying was because I recently
> broke down and bought a Sony head unit that would control the changer. 
> It is the 7070 or something like that.  I still have the fm modulator
> if you would like to try it and maybe possibly buy it.  Just write if
> you do.
> 
> 					hope this helps,
> 
> 						Scott
> 					    laflisc@wkuvm1
> 
> 

crutchfield sells something that allows you to connect a cd change to any 
factory cassette deck.
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: jphillip@comanche.ess.harris.com (John Phillips)
Subject: Re: Amps
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 22:19:28 GMT
Reply-To: jphillip@comanche.ess.harris.com
Organization: Harris Corporation, Government Aerospace Systems Division
Summary: Oxymoron -- top of the line factory


>I have a factory sterio in my Celica that is the top of the line.  I added
:
:
> I would like to know how to convert to line
>output improve the preformance of my amp and get the power back in my rear
>factory speakers.  I've tried a line input converter but it calls for rewiring the >entire car.

Try different brands of converters, some are designed better than others. You will
never approach the sound of an aftermarket with pre-outs.
From: gaia@carson.u.washington.edu (I/We are Gaia)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: LED 12volt Clock for Cars
Date: 7 Nov 92 02:01:47 GMT
Article-I.D.: u.1992Nov7.020147.7534
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle

I posted this in rec.autos, and got no response, I know this doesn't have
a hell of a lot to do with audio, but it is kinda related, car electronics
and all that.  The subject line describes what I am looking for.  When I
get my new car, I will be putting in a new stereo, but what is popular
these days, is to put the clock in the factory deck.  Bingo, no clock. 
Does anyone know where I could find a decent/modern looking led clock that
runs off the car power.  I don't like the Radio Shack designs, plus the
fact that they have MICRONTA plastered all over them.  PLEASE email with
response, or followup to the net..

gaia@carson.u.washington.edu
From: ui68@linus.umd.edu (Bill Kyte)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Some ALPINE Wiring Question
Date: 9 Nov 92 01:56:57 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: University of Maryland, College Park


   Hey what is going on guys?  I have a small question to ask about two wires
on the back of my ALPINE.
  First, I have a ALPINE(model #7235)pull-out head unit that has a bevel 16+16w

internal amp.  There are a few sets of wires on the back of the benzi-box.

The first set contains the following
Red=+12v
Yellow=12v(constant)
Brown w/white stripe=???????
Blue w/white stripe=???????
There is where my question is. But here are the other groups just for 
identification.

Next are the high level speaker outputs
Purple=Right-front +
White=Left-front +
White w/black stripe=Front -
Green=Right-rear +
Grey=Left-rear + 
Grey w/black stripe=rear -

There are a few extras
Black=-12v
Pink=Audio in ???????
Blue=remote
RCA jacks

   Just a summary of my questions:
What are the Brown w/white stripe and Blue w/white stripe wires?  And what
is this audio in wire for and what do you connect to it (it has a bullet
connector on the end of it)?

This radio is about 3-4 years old and I just bought off of the original
owner for one hundred dollars last year.  The radio is all hooked up, and
works fine but I would like to find out what these wires are.

                                           -Bill Kyte

Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: lutzeb@cs.tu-berlin.de (Dirk Lutzebaeck)
Subject: Problems with using 2 different Pyle woofers?
Reply-To: lutzeb@cs.tu-berlin.de
Organization: Computer Science Department, Technical University Berlin, Germany
Distribution: rec
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 15:15:55 GMT


hi all,

i've cut two 10" holes in my BMW 635 partition wall between trunk and
passengers room. I installed two Pyle woofers on a MDF board and
mounted and sealed it on the partition wall. I'm using one Pyle driver
from the "Driver I" series (12", 40oz magn., 4ohms, light membran) AND
one Pyle driver from the "Pro II" series (12", 100oz magn., 4ohms, very
hard membran). They are driven by an Orion 420GT amplifier (4x 20
WRMS), a channel for each driver and cut of with 12db at 70Hz.

The question is: do the different characterics of the woofers influence
each other and how? 

--
Dirk Lutzebaeck       | Email: lutzeb@cs.tu-berlin.de |  (**( )
TU Berlin, Sekr. 6-10 | Tel:   +49-30-314-25586       | (**( . ) I don't think,
Franklinstr. 28-29    | FAX:   +49-30-314-73622       | (*.*)  )    so I am.
D-1000 Berlin 12      | Room:  FR6079                 |  (*)  )
From: bf0w+@andrew.cmu.edu (Brett Earl Forejt)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Mustang installation
Date: 10 Nov 92 06:24:28 GMT
Organization: Sophomore, Electrical and Computer Engineering, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA

hi, just wondering if anyone has had experience in installing systems in
late model mustangs if so, i would like your input upon my situation

i am currently designing a seven channel amp for my system.  the amp
will have 2 sub channels at 150 watts, 2 rear mid-upper range at either
100, or 75 watts, 2 door channels (mid-ranges) at 75 watts, and three in
dash channels, at 50 watts, the third being for a surround effect, i
haven't decided to make it real surround or fake yet.

the problems that i am having are, where to put the amp, or possible
just build the amp as several amps and place it in various places
throughout the car, and i don't want any big boxes to take up my trunk
space (by the way i have a hatchback), because as those who own mustangs
know the usable space is limited without putting down the back seats.

i am going to install the subs in the factory 5x7 holes behind the wheel
wells, and the drivers are going to be either 6" or 8" push pull pairs
(4 speakers in all, an you run them mounted face to face wired pos-neg,
and neg-pos that way you can handel twice the power, and have lots o
base from small drivers) the rear channels will be either home mounted
or professionally done to be solid and flush. the doors will be easy, i
have done the same before with my fathers mustang, the dash will also be
easy, just using the stock mounting holes and sizes.

the whole idea of this system is to be as close to professional sound,
and i don't mean professional loud, as possible, also i would like to
make the entire system as steath as possible.

thanks guys, any sugesstions or comments are welcome

Brett
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: bublitz@fraser.sfu.ca (Martin Bublitz)
Subject: Solobaric Subs: Anyone using them?
Keywords: solobaric
Organization: Simon Fraser University, Burnaby, B.C., Canada
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1992 19:40:33 GMT

So with all this talk about the Kicker Solobaric subs, is anyone out there using
them??  What do you think of them??  Even though they take up minimal space, how
can I justify the extra cost??  Do they sound the same as say a Kicker C-12 in
a larger enclosure??  

Thanks for your opinions, folks.

Martin
Organization: University of Illinois at Chicago
Date: Tuesday, 10 Nov 1992 15:04:07 CST
From: <U13141@uicvm.uic.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Sony sytem help

Hello, everyone. I need your help. I have a Sony XR 7600 casette player with CD
changer controls. I have looked everywhere I could in the Chicago area for the
compatible CDX A100 CD changer for coupling with the XR 7600 for some more
knockout sound. If anyone knows where I can find a CDX A100 CD changer, or if I
 can be sent one please let me know. Contact me by replying to me through
NETNEWS or directly to my user id number. If you know of any other Sony CD
changers that would be compatible I would like to know that also. Your help
would be greatly appreciated. I thank you all for reading my netpost and hope
you all are enjoying your auto audio systems. I look forward to hearing from
you soon.

                                          Always crusin' with music,
                                                    Phil
From: vincent@garnet.berkeley.edu (Vincent J. Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Integra and Changers
Date: 11 Nov 1992 20:47:42 GMT
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: garnet.berkeley.edu

In a thread about about Integra and Sony, the person responding
to my mail said that a person is selling an RF with controller.
If the person who has it is out there and still wants to get rid
of it and it works for CDX-A30 then I want it. Post me mail
From: sk4k+@andrew.cmu.edu (Stephen James Kendrish)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Installing 2 head units
Date: 12 Nov 92 21:21:07 GMT
Organization: Sophomore, Physics, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA

I was told a couple of months ago at a reputable stereo shop about a 1/2
DIN cassette deck made by Sony.  If you want to get rid of your cassette
head unit, buy a cd head unit and the Sony 1/2 DIN cassette player. 
That suggestion, I believe, would be a simpler alternative.
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: hammond@ais1.bal.mmc.com (Greg Hammond)
Subject: Re: add CD player to NISSAN Maximum ?
Organization: Martin Marietta Aero & Naval Systems
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 18:50:59 GMT

> ... I am looking to add a CD Player to my Nissan, and my budget is limited
> to $400-$500.

You should be able to walk into any local car stereo shop (or Circuit City
if one is near you), and purchase practically any standard "DIN Size"
CD player for your car.  You will also need to purchase a standard 
mounting kit, if you currently do not have a stereo in your vehicle.  One
last thing you will DEFINITELY need is a Nissan Car Stereo Wire Harnass.

The wire harnass will have the necessary connectors to attach your current
stereo interface connections from your existing stereo to your new
CD player.  Without the wire harnass, you would need to cut the one off
of your factory radio (if it has one), which wouldn't make it that easy
to reinstall the original factory radio if you sell/trash your car
later.

  Greg Hammond
  Martin Marietta Information Systems

------
Disclaimer : "I speak only for myself."
From: jreiser@scott.skidmore.edu (Jason Reiser... Asleep)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Car Radio Installation
Date: 12 Nov 92 06:18:35 GMT
Article-I.D.: scott.1992Nov12.061835.19823
Organization: Skidmore College, Saratoga Springs NY

ebd0@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (EDWARD BAYKAR DERVISHIAN) writes:
> In article <1992Nov11.170637.5655@mnemosyne.cs.du.edu>, rcrawfor@nyx.cs.du.edu (
> Ron Crawford) writes:
> >
> >
> >   A few weeks ago I purchased a new car stereo. Nothing fancy, it's
> >just a cheap digital job with a cassette. Basically, I just had to get
> >something to replace a factory standard 8-track in my '79 Buick.
> >
> >   I'm having a helluva time installing it, and I'm not about to pay
> >another $75 to have it professionally done. I bought one of those radio
> >kits and wireing harness and still no luck. Here are the problems I'm
> >having:
> >
> >  There is a big screw coming out of the back of the radio. Is this
> >just for support? The manual doesn't say anything about it.
> >
> >  With the kit, the radio does not sit flat against the bottom plate.
> >Would it be alright to just stick something in there propping it up
> >to a level height?
> >
> >Any advice would be appreciated.
> >
> >rcrawfor@nyx.cs.du.edu
> >
> >"Yessir, everything's standard. It'll slide right in any car." Yeah, right.
> >
> It seems as though that screw sticking out in the back is just to connect the
> radio itself to ground. you can get rid of it. If the radio has a black wire
> coming out of it for ground, that's all you need. as for stuffing something
> underneath to prop it, do whatever you have to. putting something underneath
> to prop it is deifinitely one way to solve the problem.

As for that screw on the rear of the radio... it has nothing to do
with grounding.  This is supplied for use with a radio back strap.
This is a metal strap that is attached to the rear of the radio and
also to the vehicle's firewall or other support behind the radio.
This will solve the problem with the radio sagging as you described.


				- Jason


-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------
\ Jason A. Reiser  \ Send E-Mail to jreiser@scott.skidmore.edu \
 \ Skidmore College \ Saratoga Springs, NY 12866 \ 518-581-6580 \  
  \ It's a new Ice Age!  Hooray!!  Sled City!  - Calvin & Hobbes \
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: yystg@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov (STEVE GRAHAM)
Subject: Re: Some ALPINE Wiring Question
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
Distribution: na
Date: 12 Nov 1992 09:35 EST  

In article <1992Nov11.130840.1143@bmerh85.bnr.ca>, ehawrysh@bcars6e7.bnr.ca (Evan Hawrysh) writes...
>Brown w/white: in pause (I've never seen Alpine explain this, but I suspect
>it either puts out 12VDC when the unit is paused (do you have a pause button?)
>or will pause the unit when 12VDC is applied. Can anyone confirm this?

I believe this is the wire that will mute/pause the unit when your cellular 
phone rings.  I would assume that the (Alpine) phone turns this on by 12v+.

S. Graham
From: fabela@tibet.Berkeley.EDU (George Fabela)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: test
Date: 13 Nov 92 18:48:17 GMT
Reply-To: fabela@tibet.Berkeley.EDU (George Fabela)
Organization: Superconducting Super Collider Laboratory

Testing 1,2,3 BOOM BOOM
From: demaine@ee.ualberta.ca (Cal Demaine)
Subject: Re: 1 Farad Capacitor availability
Organization: University Of Alberta, Edmonton Canada
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 16:47:01 GMT

MICHAELB@UCF1VM.BITNET (Michael `Anti-Microsoft' Brunetti) writes:
>In article <11NOV199211095879@rosie.uh.edu>, st1q9@rosie.uh.edu (Devine, Della
>M) says:
>>   Right now i'm looking in the new Pasco Scientific Physics catalog and
>>they have for sale a 1 farad capacitor for roughly $19.00.
>>The problem is is that it is a 5 volt and not a 12-20 volt as needed for
>>automotive use.  Does anybody have any idea how to get a 5volt to work
>>with 12-15 volts?  If so then these would be a lot cheaper than the
>>800,000 microfarad that 2000 sells for $125.00...
>>
>Not possible, but hey.... What is the largest 15-20volt cap available there
>You can run smaller ones in parallel to get the effective capacitance.

Ok, we can work it out with these Pasco Scientific jobs, for Michael.

If you put four of those 1F, 5V caps in series, you'll have 20V handling.
However, your capacitance will have dropped to .25F, so you'll need four
of these collections in parallel.  That means, total, for a 20V, 1F cap
bank, you'll need 16 of those capacitors.

Somehow, I get this feeling that $304 is a lot more than $125.  In fact,
.75F from Pasco is going to cost you $240, vs. .8F for $125 from A2000.

Oh well.
   - Cal
ll
-- 
  - Cal Demaine                   | The university may own my ideas and opinions
    (demaine@bode.ee.ualberta.ca) | but don't think for a moment they share them
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: shawn@panix.com (Shawn Herzinger)
Subject: CD changer for Legend?
Summary: What Changer works with Legend stock radio?
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 15:03:00 GMT
Organization: PANIX Public Access Unix, NYC
Keywords: CD Changer, Acura Legend

I know that this subject has been covered before but I forget
what the responses were.

What Aftermarket CD changer works with the factory Acura Legend
Radio.  The radio has controls for the changer and the car is pre-
wired to connect a changer in the trunk.  As usual, the dealer
wants too much for an "Acura" changer.  If memory serves, doesn't
Pioneer make the changers for Acura?

Can someone post a pin-out for the connector which is in the Legend
trunk?  Do I have to make my own adapter?  Do the control signals 
eminating from the stock radio match the aftermarket changer
requirements, or did Acura monkey around with these also?

The car is a '92 Acura Legend which is pre-wired for a Cd changer.

Thank you very much for your responses.

-- 
Shawn M. Herzinger
shawn@panix.com