HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com (Bob Rusk)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: TIRES: Kelley-Springfields
Date: 2 Oct 92 14:40:21 GMT
	<1992Sep30.162504.26533@wuecl.wustl.edu>
	<1992Oct1.222313.561@cbfsb.cb.att.com>
Reply-To: rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com
Distribution: usa
Organization: Harris Computer Systems Division

On Thu, 1 Oct 1992 22:23:13 GMT, jag@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (j.goldberg) wrote:

>Every time somebody asks for a VW tire recommendation, I send mail.
>This time, I'll post.

>I have been using Kleber C50's on my '86 Jetta GLI for the past 65K
>miles or more, and I have to say I'm REALLY REALLY happy with them.

Is this model Kleber still available and unchanged?  The tire place I
frequented in Provo, UT told me about three years ago that they were no
longer recommending their Kleber line because Klebers, formerly made by
Michelin in Europe, were now being made in Ohio by a US tire company,
and that both handling and durability had diminished while prices had
gone up.  I was sorely disappointed, having had great service from a set 
I put on my wife's car.

Anyway, this might be something to watch out for in considering purchase
of a set of Klebers.

--
--
 Bob Rusk
 rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com
 My thoughts, probably not Harris'.
From: marcouil@ireq.hydro.qc.ca (Luc Marcouiller)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Oil pressure warning system - 84 GTI
Date: 5 Oct 92 21:31:34 GMT
Reply-To: marcouil@ireq.hydro.qc.ca
Organization: Hydro-Quebec

Hi net.folks,

I was wondering if anyone got an answer to this one 'cause I have this problem
too and it's getting more and more annoying as the cold weather drifts in.  In
case you missed the original post here are the symptoms: usually on a cold
morning (4'C this morning), usually when the car has been sitting for more than
lets say 36 hours (means doesn't *usually* happens twice the same day) the oil
warning system starts beeping and red flashing when the RPM hits 2200 (same
figure as the other guy).  This goes on for a few minute with the RPM limit
going somewhat up (i.e. next minute it's 2500, then 2700 and so on) until all
of this beeping business simply vanishes and you can go way up the red line if
you wish.  There is no signs of bad running or oil starvation and the car is
running fine during this beeping and afterward.  The question: What the f*ing
hell is going on ???

The hardware is 82 rabbit (for insurance) with 86 GTI engine (for my pleasure)
                145 000 km                    ~75 000 km (1.8 with hydr. lifters)

Share and Enjoy
Thanx  Luc
-- 
Luc Marcouiller ---> marcouil@ireq.hydro.qc.ca
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: gds@cbnewsi.cb.att.com (glenn.d.strouse)
Subject: INFO on VW PASSAT
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 12:30:59 GMT


   I'm considering the purchase of a PASSAT. It will most likely be a used

  one. I am looking for any information on 90'-92' models. Any problems with

  this car, or things to check for when test driving a used model?

   Thanks in advance.


   glenn
From: justin@cybernet.cse.fau.edu (Justin Davila)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: '67 Squareback- life&death- part III
Date: 27 Sep 92 17:40:30 GMT
Organization: Cybernet BBS, Boca Raton, Florida


        Greetings, fellow VW owners.  It's me, Justin, again.  Well, to 
fill you in, I have decided to keep my '67 Sq'back and take her apart 
myself, mainly because I am a poor college student and have no bread.

        I've got my trusty Muir book, and I've been reading it like the 
Holy Scriptures for the last few days.  Unfortunately, the book doesn't 
really seem to address my particular problem: that of having loose heads. 
It only equates loose heads to serious trouble in the "listening for 
noises" section of engine rebuild.

        More than taking it apart, which I'm pretty sure I can handle, 
I'd love to know how I can tell if my loose heads have caused any real 
damage to my crankcase which would necessitate my purchase of a hugely 
expensive new case.

        You people on this board are prehaps the nicest in the world.  
Thank you for your continued support.

Justin. 

   ____
__/    |
o-----o  ooOO
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: shade@chdasic.sps.mot.com (Douglas Shade)
Subject: Re: WANTED : VW Gifs
Reply-To: shade@chdasic.sps.mot.com
Organization: Motorola SPS ASIC, Chandler, AZ
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 15:34:03 GMT


>BOy, Id like some VW Gifs, especially some of the old oval windows and
>wierd and unusual ones.  Thanks in advance.
>
>
>/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\
>    Robert Duong                     |    " Toto, I have a feeling we're     
>    University of Wollongong         |      not in Kansas anymore... "       
>    u9264582@wampyr.cc.uow.edu.au    |                   Dorothy Gale
>    -send no cheques, cash only      |                _THE WIZARD OF OZ_     
>\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/
>
Or a postscript / line art image of a sedan (pref. a side view).  I'd like to 
sketch out some ideas for wild graphics on top of a line art drawing....  thx


---
shade@chdasic.sps.mot.com                        \/
602-821-4096                                    \/\/...its not a car 


Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: hookman@titan.ucc.umass.edu (Andrew R Hill)
Subject: for sale 1963 VW bug
Organization: University of Massachusetts, Amherst
Distribution: ne
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 17:03:43 GMT

I have a 1963 "deluxe sedan" for sale, it spent much of it's life in
Nevada, and then about 5 years or so in a barn under a tarp...I have bee
n driving it for a while, and it is a really friendly car.  The body is
in incredibly good shape sas far as rust goes...and the enging is also
excellent. The car needs some minor restorations to be mint....

$4000 is what I would like to get for it....I will consider as a "trade
in" any VW (air cooled) or MG, etc.

email me or call# 413-546-4729

Andrew
From: leoh@laurel.hdw.csd.harris.com (Leo Hinds)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Eurovan replace Vanagon?
Date: 6 Oct 92 13:31:20 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Harris CSD, Ft. Lauderdale, FL
NNTP-Posting-Host: laurel.hdw.csd.harris.com

In article <3789@bcstec.ca.boeing.com> mce5921@bcstec.ca.boeing.com (Martin Emde) writes:
>Will VW continue producing vanagon campers now that the Eurovan is out?

No

>Is there a camper version of the Eurovan?

Yes


-- 
leoh@hdw.csd.harris.com         	Leo Hinds       	(305)973-5229
Gfx ... gfx ... :-) whfg orpnhfr V "ebg"grq zl fvtangher svyr lbh guvax V nz n
creireg ?!!!!!!? ... znlor arkg gvzr
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: lytle@noao.edu (Dyer Lytle  CCS)
Subject: Timing without timing marks??
Organization: National Optical Astronomy Observatories, Tucson, AZ, USA
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 17:00:26 GMT



Greetings,

These discussions about how to time your VW with an 009 distributor have got
me wondering whether I've got my 72 campmobile timed right.  It has an 009.
It also has good compression but not much power. (I bought it very USED.)

There are all sorts of grooves, paint marks, dings etc. around the perimeter
of my fan/pully where the timing mark is supposed to be and the only mark
that looks like an 'official' timing mark is quite a distance away from
the timing scale when the #1 sparkplug fires (like 40 degrees).

Is there a way to estimate the timing without using the timing marks?
If I have the engine running and rotate the distributor I can get the idle
to increase dramatically from where it is currently timed.  Does the
idle speed indicate anything about timing?  I guess I could just try
setting the timing at different places and road test the vehicle each
time, anybody know if this would cause problems??

Thankyou for any information!

 -Dyer


-- 
Dyer Lytle, National Optical Astronomy Observatories, Tucson, AZ, 602-323-4136
Internet: lytle@noao.edu        SPAN: NOAO::LYTLE (NOAO=5355) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: laurahal@microsoft.com (Laura Halliday)
Subject: CV joint bolts?
Date: 03 Oct 92 00:06:00 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corporation
Summary: TNT? $%#$%#$%$!!!!!


Before I reach for high explosives, any suggestions on removing the
CV joint bolts from my '72 Fastback's rear end?

I've got the right tool (they're the old 12-point pseudo-Torx bolts), I've
cleaned them off very carefully, and half of them (mainly at the wheel
end) have *still* stripped out. Some were stripped before I even got to them.

Any suggestions? Other than high explosives?

Different thread: I used to drive a '71 Super Beetle. Nice car, but the
usual shimmy at freeway speeds thanks to the springy front end. If
you want to buy one, be extremely cautious of rusty strut towers. Make
sure the steering box is OK, 'cos it's different than a Beetle's, and
rebuilt ones cost a fortune. A Super is *not* an off-road car, thanks
to the relatively fragile front end.


...laura
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: bernardo@erevax.bitnet (Marcelino Bernardo)
Subject: Repair Manual for 85+ GTI poor
Followup-To: rec.autos.vw
Organization: Exxon Research & Engineering, Co.
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 22:27:48 GMT

I was wondering what other people here think of the Shop manual (Bentley)
for the 85+ (I forgot all the other models included) GTI.  Compared to the
old manuals that I have (77 Scirocco, 72 beetle), it's very poor.  The
electrical diagrams are particularly bad since there doesn't seem to be a
way to figure out locate the components in the car.  It also doesn't seem
to be complete.  I just recently tried to find the back-up switch in the
schematic (85 GTI) and was unsuccesful.

If someone has suggestions for better manuals, I'd love to hear from them.

Marcelino Bernardo
bernardo@erevax.bitnet
From: wtjones@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Bill Jones)
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 16:49:20 GMT
Subject: '85 Jetta timing mark ?
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Rosa, CA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw

Changed the timing belt on my '85 Jetta, gas engine.  Although the belt had
173000 miles on it, it looked new.  (The car was made in W. Germany).
I need to set the timing and it is rather embarassing, but I cant seem
to find the timing marks.

I suspect it is inside the plug in the clutch housing.  Is that right?
I heard that the plug is also for a probe to set the timing (Hall effect)
in the dealership.

Thanks
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Oil in Air Filter
From: jan@camhpp12.mdcbbs.com (Jan Vandenbrande)
Date: 28 Sep 92 09:49:51 PDT
Distribution: na
Organization: M&E (Division of EDS), Cypress CA

In article <1992Sep28.065442.20377@pasteur.Berkeley.EDU> mike@mote.Berkeley.EDU (Mike Friedrich) writes:
>In article <BuL8p9.CBy@cs.dal.ca> gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca (Andy) writes:
>>Hi there,
>>. It was replaced about 3 months ago. When I opened it up, the filter
>>was black. On the bottom of the filter box, was a thin layer of oil. I cleaned
>>it all out, and then inspected the top cover. It seems that the oil was
>>dripping down from the cover on to the air filter. On top of the cover is all
>>those silver fuel lines and the fuel injection system (I think).
>>
>>	I think that the oil got in through the air intakes when the rev
>>limiter kicks in. Can anyone confirm this? Or if it is something else could
>>you please let me know and a suggestion on fixing it.
>>
>>	ANdy
>
>Sounds like blowby; the piston rings are worn and are allowing oil from the
>crankcase into the cylinders.  The oil vapors make their way back through
>
>Mike
>mike@mote.berkeley.edu

It may not be so bad...:

I believe your crank case ventilation tube ends up in the airfilter
box. That's where the oil comes from. It's normal to have some
oil (but not lots). Kind-a splashes around/evaporates when you drive hard.

-- 
Jan

jan@camhpp12.mdcbbs.com		(work)
jan@lipari.usc.edu		(school, usually works, forwards)
From: wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: PERSONAL to Andrew Stephens
Date: 6 Oct 1992 15:22:49 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


Drew-
I got your mail today but you haven't gotten mine for awhile now.  Mine
(that I've sent to you) has been bouncing for about a week now.  I sent
a reply to your test messege today, let me know if you get it.

Bill
-- 
William Claspy			Case Western Reserve University
Internet- wpc@po.cwru.edu
MaBellnet- (216) 368-3595
From: blaine@garfield.catt.ncsu.edu (Greyland Blaine Mull)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: 88 jetta needs headlamp
Date: 5 Oct 92 22:59:43 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Computer and Technologies Theme Program, NCSU, Raleigh

hello world\n

	 I have an 88 jetta Gl which I have had since new (7 miles ^_^).
All her miles are highway and she is getting up to almost 60K.  I say
all this to say that on a recent romp home a rock hit my headlamp and
cracked it (driver side) considerably - there was a hole completely
through the glass about 3mm in diameter, but I sealed it with silicone.
The local dealer wants $185.45 for the assembly and $45 to install it -
that comes to $230.45 - WOW!!!  I mean hey, I can put it in myself - I'm
not 'tupid...

	Anyone know where I can get this assembly cheaper? - I dont
necessarily want a new one because then my car will look funny (one
light will probably be brighter than the other).  Any ideas? - mail to
blaine@catt.ncsu.edu

-grey

 Grey Mull	       +Disclamer:  I didn't say it,-+  Macintosh
 blaine@catt.ncsu.edu  |   You didn't see me say it, |       to
 gbmull@eos.ncsu.edu   +---You can't prove anything!-+      NeXT...
NC State CATT Program				Steve Jobs continues...
From: ari@viipuri.nersc.gov (Ari Ollikainen)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Eurovan replace Vanagon?
Date: 7 Oct 92 03:37:27 GMT
Organization: National Energy Research Supercomputer Center, Livermore CA

The EuroVan is, indeeed, the replacement for the Vanagon. Since our friendly
network VWsalespeople are hesitant to provide dealer invoice prices, I'll
do it instead:

						Invoice 	MSRP
	
	CL 5spd					 15589 (1)	17130 (1)
	GL 5spd					 18499 (1)	20910 (1)
	MV 5spd					 19758 (1)	22340 (1)
							(1)= freight included
	4spd Automatic				   863		  895
	AntiLock Brakes			 	   752            835
	ClearCoat Metallic Paint		   146            170
	California emissions                       102 (?)        100

	Convenience Pkg-GL,MV
		Includes: PW, PL, CruiseControl    658		  765
	Popular Feature Pkg- CL only	          1599		 1860
 		Deletes Sliding Wind, includes
		DualAir & AM/FM ETR Stereo w/Cass 
	Weekender-MV				  2227    	 2530
	        Camper top, screens and curtains,
		Refrigerator, Aux battery, rear 
		hatch screen. Sleeps two in pop-
		top bed.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Although VW is touting the EuroVan as the "biggest inside" minivan, I find 
the  *usable* space to be not as well distributed as in the Vanagons. Also, 
as I said in the review I wrote some time ago: Whoever decided that opening
windows in the passenger compartment of an air-conditioned van are unnecessary
ought to be sealed in a EuroVan on a hot day with no way to turn on the 
air conditioning. I guess he/she doesn't travel with pets and/or children...
This design mis-feature makes the MV the only useful version to buy since it
comes with the sliding side windows. Unfortunately the MV *also* comes with 
the rear-facing middle seats *and* the rear storage organizer that makes into
a two person bed but invalidates the useful cargo space behind the rear seat.

BAD DESIGN DECISONS, in my opinion!

Ari Ollikainen
(Owner of 85VanagonGL & 85Westfalia-still thinking about Diesel Club Wagons)
From: dgjst1+@pitt.edu (Douglas G Jahn)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: water cooled vw service (L.A area)
Date: 26 Sep 92 23:28:37 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: University of Pittsburgh

I am just about to move to Huntington Beach and I need to start looking 
for a good mechanic for an 84 GTi.  Does anyone have any recomendations
for mechanics located in the Orange County area?  Any help will be
greatly appreciated.  
					Thanks in advance,
	
						Doug

....Hey Duke, let's go do those crimes.
Yea, uh, let's get some sushi and not pay.

			---Repo Man
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rweiers@nyx.cs.du.edu (ron weiers)
Subject: re: removing cv bolts
Organization: Nyx, Public Access Unix @ U. of Denver Math/CS dept.
Distribution: usa
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 92 14:01:51 GMT



Laura Halliday is considering TNT to remove '72 FB CV joint bolts.
Before you resort to that, you might try drilling a small hole
through the bolt head and perpendicular to the axis of the bolt.
This allows you to insert a piece of a nail (slightly longer than
the diameter of the bolt head, of course) and gives the vice-grips
something to get hold of instead of slipping around the bolt head.
This was my method-of-last-resort on a really stripped-out bolt
that was on the '84 Rabbit I bought last summer.

Hope this helps,
Ron Weiers        netmail  weiers@grove.iup.edu

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: shade@chdasic.sps.mot.com (Douglas Shade)
Subject: Re: VW Bug Horror Story
Reply-To: shade@chdasic.sps.mot.com
Organization: Motorola SPS ASIC, Chandler, AZ
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 15:54:13 GMT


> Two years ago I bought my 71' bug. The first 
>thing I had to do was replace the carburator and give it a tune-up. This
>was before I knew how to work on it, and after it broke down in middle
>of Interstate 80 near Pinole, California.
>

Hey remember, its not a car! Its a VW
---
shade@chdasic.sps.mot.com
602-821-4096
From: silverst@ecs.umass.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Starter Problem with 85 Jetta
Date: 26 Sep 92 13:50:25 GMT

I think my starter is failing on my 1985 Jetta.  The symptoms are the
occasional inability to get anything other than a click when I turn the key.
Basically, I know it is the starter, but my question is this:

If this problem has been intermittent for 2-3 weeks now, how long will I be
able to get away with the tricks like tapping the starter with a hammer before
the thing completely fails.

And besides pushing the car and popping it into second gear, what could I try
in an emergency to get the starter to crank when the problem occurs.

I know the obvious solution is to replace the starter, but it may be a week or
two before I am able to do this, and I don't want to get stuck in the meantime.

Thanks.

Bob 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: cummins@eclipse.stanford.edu (Dave Cummins)
Subject: Wanted - fiberglass top for VW Thing
Organization: Stanford University
Distribution: ca
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 1992 17:59:12 GMT

Fat chance, huh?  Thought I would try anyway.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: gjp@sei.cmu.edu (George Pandelios)
Subject: Re: Gislaved Tires
Organization: Software Engineering Institute
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1992 21:19:50 GMT

In article <18542.2ac469bf@ecs.umass.edu> silverst@ecs.umass.edu writes:
>I just got a pair of 175/70 Gislaved tires for my 1985 Jetta.  Apparently 
>they are the top of the line model.  I was curious as to whether anyone has
>heard of these tires before, and if they are supposed to be any good.
>
>Bob

Where did you get them?  Were they expensive?

I had these tires back in 1985-7 on my '84 Wolfsburg Scirocco and they were
EXCELLENT.  I think they are the best wet weather performance tires I have
ever had on a car.  After they wore out (I think I got 30 or 40K miles, but
can't remember for sure), Sweden had some sort of dock strike and you just
couldn't get them in the US.

I've occasionally looked for them since, but haven't seen them in the
Pittsburgh area.  Boy, they had everything - an S or V rating, wet weather
handling, decent lifespan, low price.  How are they now?

My '92 GTI 16V came with Pirelli P600's, which should last maybe 20K?  I'll
be looking to replace these with some better wet weather tires soon.

George
From: tomh@wes.on.ca (Tom Haapanen)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Audi questions
Date: 6 Oct 92 00:06:27 GMT
Organization: Waterloo Engineering Software

carl@neocad.com (Carl Stern) writes:
> Interesting that while other carmakers, ex. Honda, Volvo, are now
> embracing 5 cyls, Audi is phasing it out.  

Audi is supplementing the 5-banger and replacing it at the high end because
it never quite fulfilled the hopes they had for it.  When the engine was 
introduced back in '76, it was supposed to be as smooth as a six-cylinder
and yet as fuel-efficient as a four...

Well, as it turns out, a five-cylinder is by design a difficult engine to
design for smoothness.  The Audi five, while impressive in its Turbo
Quattro and later S2 and S4 incarnations, was never as smooth as a good
V6, let alone a match for a BMW straight six.  It's also longer than a 
four-cylinder, making transverse mounting difficult...

Anyway, Volvo and Mercedes have been selling five-cylinder diesels for a
long time (does Volvo have a five-cylinder gas engine now?), and Honda's
reason for introducing a five-cylinder is clear: marketing.  The Acura
five-cylinder is no smoother than an Accord four, but they didn't want
to risk eating into the Legend market with a V6 Vigor (hey, shouldn't that
be "Vigour"? :) )...

A well-designed six-cylinder will beat a well-designed five.  No question
about it, and if Audi works as hard on the V6 as they have on the five,
the next-generation S4 will be *awesome* ...

[ \tom haapanen    "i don't even know what street canada is on" -- al capone ]
[ tomh@wes.on.ca                   "trust the programmer" -- ansi c standard ]
[ waterloo engineering software      "to thine own self be true" -- polonius ]
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: anbo@wuee1.wustl.edu (Albrecht Jander)
Subject: Re: bus CV problems
Organization: Washington University, St. Louis Mo.
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 14:24:07 GMT

In article <1ac88kINNjlc@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy) writes:
>
>Hey now, all!
>I always seem to get stung when I'm only trying to do the right thing...
>
>I had my rear wheels torn apart to rebuild the brakes, so I figured I 
>should repack the CVs and wheel bearings while I was at it.  Good of me,
>no?  So I pulled off the axle, took apart the CVs to clean them, being
>very careful not to mix the parts of one with the other, put them back
>together with instructions from St. John Muir and Haynes, greased them
>up, and whamo! they're all screwed up.  They no longer move in the
>directions they're supposed to- i.e. they don't want to "joint".  Like
>absolutely NO movement in the plane that's perpendicular to the axle.
>So consequently, they won't go back to where they belong.  Now, I've
>taken them back apart and tried to figure out what went wrong and I'm
>at a loss.  My next step is to take the other side out and compare, but
>you can imagine that now I'm a little gun-shy about doing it!
>
>Any net.wisdom will be GR
>(oops)
>GRATEFULLY appreciated.  I wanna try out my brand-spanking-new brakes!
>
>Bill
>-- 
>William Claspy			Case Western Reserve University
>Internet- wpc@po.cwru.edu
>MaBellnet- (216) 368-3595

Sounds to me like you got the ball carrying doohickey in the wrong way.
The explanation in Haynes on how to put the joint back together is a 
little cryptic.  If it was easy to put together, then you did it wrong.
It should be more like a Chinese puzzle.  It's hard for me to explain how
to do it, but I managed somehow with the help of Haynes.  

Good luck,
Albrecht



---------------------------------------------------------------------------
                        Peltier was a cool dude!!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw