HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: rc7@prism.gatech.EDU (Richard Catrambone)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: clicking noise on intermittent wiper setting
Date: 17 Dec 92 17:17:13 GMT
Organization: Psychology, Georgia Institute of Technology

When I have my windshield wipers on the intermittent
setting, I hear a clicking noise just before each wipe.
My guess is that the problem is with a relay or something
as opposed to the windshield wiper motor.  Does anyone
have any thoughts or experiences on this issue?  The car
is a 1987 Toyota Celica GT.

Thanks.
-- 
CATRAMBONE,RICHARD
Georgia Institute of Technology, Atlanta Georgia, 30332
uucp:	  ...!{decvax,hplabs,ncar,purdue,rutgers}!gatech!prism!rc7
Internet: rc7@prism.gatech.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ravalent@mothra.syr.EDU (Bob Valentine)
Subject: Re: Defogger and A/C compressor question
Organization: Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 92 03:20:22 EST

In article <FRAZER.92Dec14141757@ired460a.erim.org> frazer@ired460a.erim.org (Matt Frazer) writes:
>Hi,
>  I recently inherited a 1986 Plymouth Horizon. It only has 25K actual
>miles - a real life case of the little old lady who only drove it to 
>church on Sundays. It's in pretty good condition, but lack of use seems
>to have taken its toll too. One thing I have noticed is that when I turn
>on the defogger, there is a clicking sound. This car has A/C, and I found
>that the noise is from the compressor clutch engaging, then immediately
>disengaging. This sure doesn't seem right. The constant cycling on and off
>has got to be tough on the compressor, and it sure doesn't sound good on 
>that little engine either.

    The A/C system has probably lost some charge.  They're a pressure
switch somewhere in the system.   If you remove the connector, jumper
it, and the problem disappears, then you know the problem.   NOTE:
Don't do this permanantly, it WILL damage the system.  Even better,
get the pressure guage for A/C systems.   It'll tell ya in a jiffy.

>  Could it possibly be the battery? I'm going to replace the all-but-dead
>battery next week. I'm thinking that if the compressor is controlled by a
>relay, when the engine rpms drop due to the compressor load, the battery
>voltage is not high enough to keep the relay engaged... Just a shot in
>the dark. Any other explanations would be appreciated.

   Doubt the battery is causeing the AC problem.

>  Another simpler question I have regards engine run-on. As I said, this
>car was driven by a little old lady. It was probably never driven over
>35MPH. Would this be the most likely cause of the terrible case of engine
>run-on it has? What's the best remedy for this?

   Sounds like goo in the carb, if so equiped.  Solutions are to
either remove the carb and clean, or just a tank full of gas with a
shitload of carb cleaner in it.  Then go beat the hell out of it for 
a few miles.   It could also be wrong spark plugs or just plain old
sparkplugs.

>  Thanks in advance for any help.

    You're welcome.

    Matt Frazer
>    frazer@erim.org


                      -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                  --> ravalent@mailbox.syr.edu <--
From: harmons@.WV.TEK.COM (Harmon Sommer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Jaguar XJ-12 is a Dog?
Date: 14 Dec 92 23:26:38 GMT
Reply-To: harmons@mithril.WV.TEK.COM (Harmon Sommer)
Organization: /usr/ens/etc/organization

>>The Wall Street Journal had an article about memorable dogs.
>>As I recall ... the XJ-12.

>A dog?  That engine produces more hp and torque than a '84-'9? Corvette!

Given that those who vote with their tool kits, or wallets, have pulled 
more Jag engines and replaced them with chev, suggests that Jag V12 
powered Corvettes are a distinct rarity.
From: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: *** CONVERSION POSSIBLE ?
Date: 14 Dec 92 13:11:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Ye Olde Bailey BBS - Houston, TX - 713-520-1569
Reply-To: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 

  >>>Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech >>>Subject: *** CONVERSION POSSIBLE ?
  *** >>>Date: 11 Dec 92 23:30:17 GMT



PT>>>Anyone out there know if I can convert a Chevy 400 Small block to Fuel
  >>>Injection?  I'm looking for feul economy mor than performance, as the
  >>>thing right now is plenty for my little Sunbird ;-)

PT>>>I assume we're talking Throttle-Body style FI, since I want to try to use
  >>>existing block.

PT>>>Does this make any sense to anyone out there?
  >>> -------------------------------------------------------------------------
  >>>                    !!! H A P P Y   H O L I D A Y S !!!

PT>>>  - Patrick Taylor, Ericsson Network Systems


Sure!,
        Just yank off the intake system, wiring harness and ECM off of a
        comparable V8 LATE model car. Like a Camaro or Corvette. Then
        give Hypertech a call for a custom PROM..
                                                don


 * SLMR 2.1a * I put spot remover on my dog....Spots gone!
                                             
----
Ye Olde Bailey BBS
Houston,Texas
Node 1: 1 713 520 1569
yob.sccsi.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: frazer@ired460a.erim.org (Matt Frazer)
Subject: Defogger and A/C compressor question
Organization: Environmental Research Institute of Michigan, Ann Arbor, Michigan
Distribution: usa
Date: 14 Dec 92 14:17:57

Hi,
  I recently inherited a 1986 Plymouth Horizon. It only has 25K actual
miles - a real life case of the little old lady who only drove it to 
church on Sundays. It's in pretty good condition, but lack of use seems
to have taken its toll too. One thing I have noticed is that when I turn
on the defogger, there is a clicking sound. This car has A/C, and I found
that the noise is from the compressor clutch engaging, then immediately
disengaging. This sure doesn't seem right. The constant cycling on and off
has got to be tough on the compressor, and it sure doesn't sound good on 
that little engine either.
  Could it possibly be the battery? I'm going to replace the all-but-dead
battery next week. I'm thinking that if the compressor is controlled by a
relay, when the engine rpms drop due to the compressor load, the battery
voltage is not high enough to keep the relay engaged... Just a shot in
the dark. Any other explanations would be appreciated.

  Another simpler question I have regards engine run-on. As I said, this
car was driven by a little old lady. It was probably never driven over
35MPH. Would this be the most likely cause of the terrible case of engine
run-on it has? What's the best remedy for this?

  Thanks in advance for any help.
    Matt Frazer
    frazer@erim.org
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kelley@cwis.unomaha.edu (Sean Kelley)
Subject: Re: Help! Getting wet
Organization: University of Nebraska at Omaha
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1992 05:59:49 GMT

You did not mention the yearof the car, but...a similar situation
happened to a friends car...it was a newer..like 85 car and she managed
to wash it one day, and somehow water got into a control chip on the
aircleaner/manifold...it got wet and did not start until the next day
when it dryed up...maybe that is it?

--
	    ________________-----------------_____________
            \                                            /
             \  SEAN KELLEY    KELLEY@CWIS.UNOMAHA.EDU  / 
              ------------------------------------------
From: chrisw@hpscit.sc.hp.com (Chris Wiles)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 20:54:01 GMT
Subject: Re: Distributer Swapping...
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Clara, CA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech


	Yes, but you need a big block hei distributer.

chris wiles
//
From: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: brakes --  79 Honda Accor
Date: 16 Dec 92 23:27:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Ye Olde Bailey BBS - Houston, TX - 713-520-1569
Reply-To: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 


  >>>Subject: brakes --  79 Honda Accord
  >>>Date: 15 Dec 92 00:59:12 GMT
  >>>Reply-To: jbelury@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Josh Belury)

JB>>>The brake light (the idiot light on the insrument panel) in my Honda stays
  >>>all the time.

JB>>>The parking brake is kinda feeble, but it was like that before the light
  >>>came on.  The brakes seem to work fine.  No noises, and reasonable stoppin
  >>>distance.

JB>>>I don't have much money, and I'm about to drive 1000 miles home for xmas.
  >>>I've never worked on brakes, but I'm confident with tools and techy
  >>>stuff.

JB>>>What is the likely problem here indicated by the light?  How should
  >>>I troubleshoot it, can I fix it, or can I ignore it and take off on
  >>>my trip???

JB>>>The car is a 79 Honda Accord CVCC 5spd manual.

JB>>>Thanks,
  >>>Dan
If the brake pedal is still high and firm then you probalbly just have
worn out pads/shoes which caused the fluid level to drop enough to
activate the brake light. Check you fluid level, if low then pull ALL
your wheels and check the linings...check the rear hydraulics closely
for leaks. Replace/repair as needed.
                                                Don


 * SLMR 2.1a * I put spot remover on my dog....Spots gone!
                                          
----
Ye Olde Bailey BBS
Houston,Texas
Node 1: 1 713 520 1569
yob.sccsi.com
From: Star.One@f88.n106.z1.fidonet.org (Star One)
Sender: Jpunix@urchin.fidonet.org
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: seat slides
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 22:32:18 -0500

Ok, I have a 1982 Chevy 4x4 K5 blazer. Equipped with capt. chairs.
The problem is the chairs cannot go forward enough for my very short
legged companion to reach the pedals.
  Is it possible to get longer slides.  The way it's set up now, she
can
  almost reach the pedals but I can't get the seat to go back as far as
  I'd like.

2. It's got a hard top, does anyone know of a way to solve the
condensation problem.. I get so tired of being rained on while driving!
___
 X OLX 2.1 X Proofread carefully to see if you any words out.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: csmith@plains.NoDak.edu (Carl Smith)
Subject: Re: Gasoline differences?
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 19:28:08 GMT
Organization: North Dakota Higher Education Computing Network

In article <39670097@hpcc01.corp.hp.com> mtc@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Mark Cousins) writes:
>In rec.autos.tech, kenny@osf.org (Kenneth Crudup) writes:
>
>>water flow- I don't grab the brake booster line!). I run the engine at 2k
>>rpm, and lower the other end of my line so that it just touches the surface
>>of the water in the container (use about 1/2 quart). The engine vacuum will
>>suck the water up, and I regulate the flow, letting a little more in, but
>
>I've heard of something similar, but they used brake fluid.  Comments?

My uncle used to do this on his late 70's T-bird.  When it started running
rough he would just dump a little brake fluid right down the carb.  The
engine would sputter and run real rough for a few seconds, and spit out a
lot of black smoke and grime, and when it recovered it would run a lot
smoother and idle better...

>>I assume your Honda has carburation; I have to find a mani vac line 'cuz I
>>have fuel injection, but you should be able to slowly (a trickle) dribble
>>water right down the carb throat.
>
>Yes -- the engine is carburated.  I'll give this a try.  Will any of the junk
>loosened up and blown out the exhaust harm the cat-conv or anything?

I can't comment on the cat. since the above mentioned t-bird had no
cat, ox sensor, etc.  I haven't dared try the above on my car for fear
of plugging up the cat for fouling the ox sensor...
From: chapman@centerline.com (Scott Chapman, (Scott Chapman x233))
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Help!Static Charge Shock--Civic
Date: 18 Dec 1992 18:20:05 GMT
Organization: CenterLine Software
Distribution: world
Reply-To: chapman@centerline.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: divine.centerline.com

I think this is caused by a static build up generated by your clothing
rubbing against those velour seats. I have not had this problem since I got
my new Honda with leather seats. I know of no fixes... Sorry

---
                                  |
                    Scott Chapman | chapman@centerline.com
              CenterLine Software | (617) 498-3230
                   10 Fawcett St. | (617) 868-6655 (FAX)
              Cambridge, MA 02138 | (Centerline was formerly Saber Software)
                                  |


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: "mike knox" <mike.knox@canrem.com>
Subject: All-Wheel Drive/4x4 Questions.
Reply-To: "mike knox" <mike.knox@canrem.com>
Organization: Canada Remote Systems
Distribution: rec
Date: 20 Dec 92 23:11:02 EST

 
In Message-ID: <1008#blue.cis.pitt.edu>, dcwst8+@pitt.edu (David C Winters)
writes:
 
>     This post's about all-wheel drive and four-wheel drive.  First of
>all, are they the same?  I've already heard:
 
>     I've also heard some opinions that assume that AWD and 4x4 are
>_not_ the same thing; the thing is, they are judged under two different
>yardsticks.
 
The way I understand it, 4x4 or 4WD represents the type of 4 wheel drive
system with no front-to-rear differential as is the case in your Blazer
or Bronco "part-time" 4 wheel drive systems. With no front-to-rear slippage,
you get maximum power to both front and rear axle, but on dry hard surfaces
this type of set up is hard on tires and drivetrain. The reason is because
when you turn, the front wheels would like to rotate at a different speed
than the rear wheels, but can't because of the solid link between front
and rear. Most of these systems can be shifted from 2 wheel to 4 wheel
drive as conditions warrant.
 
All wheel drive (AWD) employs a front-to-rear differential, and so is more
suited to full time use. Most AWD cars and *some* of the Cherokee models
with "full time" 4WD use this system. With a certain amount of differential
slippage, you won't get quite as much power to the ground as you would with
the "part-time" system described above. Most AWD vehicles are in AWD mode
all of the time (such as the AWD Caravans) with no driver control over the
system. One exception is certain Cherokee models which can be switched from
2 wheel drive to part-time 4WD as well as to full-time 4WD (ie. AWD).
 
Full Time means you can use it all of the time, while Part Time means it's
for intermittent use when conditions warrant.
 
Hope this helps.
 
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Mike Knox                  |     Fido: 1:229/15
    Brampton, Ontario          | Internet: mike.knox@canrem.com
    CANADA                     | RelayNet: ->CRS  (Public Key: 22319)
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

 * DeLuxe2/386 1.25 #4782 * 
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
From: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Power Steering Assist
Date: 18 Dec 92 19:01:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Ye Olde Bailey BBS - Houston, TX - 713-520-1569
Reply-To: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 


  >>>Subject: Power Steering Assist
  >>>Date: 15 Dec 92 23:58:50 GMT

CW>>>Is there any way to modify the power assist to the steering to suit
  >>>one's needs?  I am looking at a Ford Mustang (93) that I am thinking
  >>>of purchasing and one of the things I'm wondering about is decreasing
  >>>the amount of power assist to the steering, maybe by 1/2 or so... is
  >>>this possible (to do it cheaply? <100 bucks?)?  This may be a major
  >>>consideration in purchasing the car... please email replies.
Not under a $100 bucks and it wouldn't be cyt in half anyway. All that
can be done is to change the gear ratio of the rack and pinion.
Now when the electronic power assist starts appearing........!
                                                        Don


 * SLMR 2.1a * I put spot remover on my dog....Spots gone!
                                                                      
----
Ye Olde Bailey BBS
Houston,Texas
Node 1: 1 713 520 1569
yob.sccsi.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: wesf@boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii)
Subject: Re: clicking noise on intermittent wiper setting
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 18:58:58 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

Richard Catrambone (rc7@prism.gatech.EDU) wrote:
: When I have my windshield wipers on the intermittent
: setting, I hear a clicking noise just before each wipe.
: My guess is that the problem is with a relay or something

In a lot of cars, it is normal that you can hear the relay click.
Is this a NEW noise?  I'd check out another Celica to see if it
is normal for your car.  Maybe the relay just came out of it's 
sound isolation or something like that.

: as opposed to the windshield wiper motor.  Does anyone
: have any thoughts or experiences on this issue?  The car
: is a 1987 Toyota Celica GT.

Wes Fujii
________________________________________________________________
      ___   ___ ___ 
     /  /  /  //  /
    /  /__/  //  /    A real motor is an Oldsmobile Rocket 455
   /  HURST //  /     "This is NOT the new generation of Olds"
  /  /  /  //  /_______ 
 /__/  /__//  //  ___  \
          /  //  /   \  \       Wes "BANZAI" Fujii
         /  //  /OLDS/  /          Boise, Idaho
        /  / \  \___/  /      wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com
       /__/   \_______/
From: exuptr@exu.ericsson.se (Patrick Taylor)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: How do you remove frozen, stripped screws?
Date: 15 Dec 92 23:15:07 GMT
Organization: Ericsson Network Systems, Inc.
X-Disclaimer: This article was posted by a user at Ericsson.
              Any opinions expressed are strictly those of the
              user and not necessarily those of Ericsson.

In article <1992Dec15.163308.28087@wdl.loral.com> csk@wdl50.wdl.loral.com (Chuck Kuczaj) writes:

>I've tried penetrating oil, heat, hammers, and other things, but the
>basic problem is still the fact that one can't exert enough force on
>a stripped screw.  Is there any kind of special tool, which when
>"clamped-on" to the exposed screw head, allows for the exertion of much
>greater torque?  Obviously, I've tried using the "vice-grip method".
>What I'm looking for is a more optimal solution.

The optimal solution is a drill and a die kit, I believe.  I've also had
some luck with these reverse-threaded pullout screws.  They screw into the 
existing offending part in the reverse direction, thus applying torque in 
the removing direction while digging deeper into the screw.  

This doesn't work too well with small parts, though.
 ----------------------!!! H A P P Y   H O L I D A Y S !!!-------------------
 ObQuotes:
 "Igornance and prejudice, confident their ways are best..."
 "Quick to judge, quick to anger, slow to understand..."

  - Patrick Taylor, Ericsson Network Systems
    exuptr@exu.ericsson.se                    "Don't let the .se fool you"
    Visit the SOUNDING BOARD BBS 214-596-2915, a Wildcat! BBS
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ravalent@mothra.syr.EDU (Bob Valentine)
Subject: Re: Weird problem.  Need doctors advice!
Organization: Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 92 20:04:03 EST

In article <1992Dec14.083509.62014@cc.usu.edu> slhmz@cc.usu.edu writes:
>
>Heeeelp.
>
>I have a Fuel Injected '87 Pontiac and am having a very strange problem.
>On cold cold mornings (-30 to 20 F) my cars starts up beautifully.  If
>I start going, it slips into gear seemlessly and takes off wonderfully.
>
>Now, as soon as the engine warms up to "normal running temperature" I
>get extremely poor preformance and frequent stalling.
>

   As usual, no details.  What engine/f.i. scheme?

>A friend suggested the spark plug wires.  He said that when it is cold
>the water freezes to ice, but as soon as the engine warms up, the ice
>melts into water and condenses on my bad spark plug wires, thus my
>problem.

   NOT!

>What do you suggest?
>

   Sounds to be one of the temp sensors, or could possibly be a 
slightly screwed up IAC motor.   I'd comment more, but we'd need
some more info tho....

>--
>Travis Carter


                      -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                  --> ravalent@mailbox.syr.edu <--  

    

    

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: Carr-C10973@email.comm.mot.com (Eric Carr)
Subject: Distributer Swapping...
Organization: Motorola LMPS Engineering
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1992 14:02:49 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech

Does anyone know if a small block HEI distributer will fit in a big block?

                             

                         _________                                       
               ________ /  '67   /_________
              /    Caprice Sport Coupe    /         
             /      396cid     365hp     /   See the USA in an old
Chevrolet                                                                  
                                  
            /________   USA-1  _________/         
                    /_________/
                                      
                                             
                                              
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: gary@xserver.nynexst.com (Gary Matison)
Subject: Post flood maintenance - seeking advice
Originator: gary@xserver
Keywords: flood damage, preventive maintenance
Organization: Nynex Science and Technology
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 92 18:21:39 GMT

During last week's sudden storm in the New York area, we unexpectedly
encountered badly flooded roads and ended up driving for a few minutes
through water that was roughly axle high.

Are there any prescribed maintenance procedures to follow after this
wonderful experience? A dealer suggested replacing all wheel bearings -
is that reasonable at this point?

Thanks in advance for any info or experiences you can share.
 


-- 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Gary G. Matison		E-Mail: gary@nynexst.com	Nynex S&T - ATD/ISL
Phone: 914-644-2358					500 Westchester Ave.
Fax:   914-644-2706 					White Plains, NY 10604
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mellum@skyler.mavd.honeywell.com
Subject: Re: HORRIBLE STALLS (!) in Po
Organization: Honeywell Systems & Research Center
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 18:04:49 GMT

In article <6430.196.uupcb@yob.sccsi.com>, donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel)  writes:
> low IS your oil pressure? Some gm have a safety switch that cuts off the
> fuel pump if oil pressure gets too low.. looks just like a oil sending
> unit and is usually located near oil filter.
>                                                         Don
Most of the time this set at around 4 psi, so if it's that there are other
major problems.

Ron
mellum@skyler.mavd.honeywell.com
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: '80 Turbo TA
Date: 20 Dec 92 14:46:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> Any advice on squeezing a Chevy 409 into a 1980 Turbo Trans Am,
-> and/or tips on getting the best performance out of it?

 The 409 is a heavy pig.  The chamber shape sucks.  No aftermarket
manifolds are available, though you might get Isky to grind you a cam.
It will not bolt up to your transmission.  You will have to fabricate
mounts.

 Since you already have Pontiac motor mounts and transmission, why not
swap in a 400 Pontiac?  They're dirt cheap, come standard with screw in
studs, guide plates, and windage tray, and you can get parts practically
anywhere.