From: blu@cellar.org (Dan Reed)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: VDO oil PSI gauge install..
Date: 10 Nov 92 17:44:19 GMT
Organization: The Cellar BBS and public access system


               Adding a VDO oil pressure gauge to your car.
 
Project Car - 89 VW Golf
 
Difficulty - 1=oil change/10=new clutch, this gets a 3.
             Basic electrical/wiring knowledge of the car is required.
 
Time to install - 1 Hr.
 
Tooled Needed - 17mm wrench,
                Screwdrivers,
                90Deg screwdriver,
                Wire Cutters,
                Crimping Tool,
                and 22mm Deep Socket/or wrench
                Drill w/bits of proper size.
                VOM or 12V test light.
 
Extra Parts - Crimp on wire connectors,
              electrical tape,
              and wire taps.
 
Total Cost - $40 for Gauge (with "cup" stand), $40 For sender
 
Purchased From - Volkstech, of Burlington NJ.  (sorry, they dont do
                                                mailorder)
                 (Automotive Performance Systems inc.
                 also has similar kits for a bit more.. )
 
Options - Gauge type, (NightDesign)
          Color of gauge, (Green, stock VW Dash color)
          Keep Idot light active (I did).
          Electric or BordonTube gauge (Electric)
 
Caution! - Sensitive electoral parts are involved!  Take care, read all
           instructions!  I am not responsible for blowing up your car!
           A VW Golf was used as the test car, your car might be
           different, however, much of the same applies.  I do not work
           for VDO, Volkstech, or APS.  I just do this, cuz I love you
           guys...
 
  Ok, so you have all your parts, and tools you need.  First step is to
remove the key, and disconnect the (-) off battery.  Second, decide where
you want to mount the gauge.
  I choose the flat spot just to the left of my has cluster (right above
the leftmost vent).  Mount the base, angle it so as it will be facing you
while in the driving position.  Mark the holes, and just screw in the
base.  Drilling is not needed, as the material is soft dash-padding.  Use
good screws with a nice thick thread, do NOT use machine screws, unless
you plan to bolt them down with washers.  Drill a hole, the size of the
wire cluster (off the gauge), into the side of the dash pod.  Do NOT
drill "all the way" into the dash.  You do not want to harm your
headlight switch, OR your speedometer.  If you want, remove the dash
to take a better look at what is behind the hole you are about to drill
(a GOOD idea).  Once the hole is drilled, feed the wire cluster
through.  Mount the gauge.
  Remove the lower plastic package tray, and remove the dash bezel.  Pop
out the headlight switch, and remove the plastic mount that it attaches
to.  Locate the wires you just stuffed into the dash pod.  Pull down the
green, red, and brown wires.  Move the gray/red wire over to your
headlight switch.  Attach the brown wire to a good solid ground of the
car.  Locate the wire off the headlight switch, that runs over to your
lights on the dash.  Make sure you pick the circuit that has the dimmer
off of it.  This way, the gauge will dim with the rest of the dash
cluster.  Use the wire tap to connect the gray/red wire, to the dimmer
wire.  Reinstall the battery (-), test out the circuit, disconnect
the (-).
  Attach the red wire, to a fuse that gets power when the key is turned
on.  I used my heater fan fuse.  Run the green wire, out through a hole
in the fire wall, into the engine compartment.  If you do not see a hole,
there are two small rubber grommets, just to the right, and beneath of
the power brake booster, pop one out.  NEATLY run the wire over to the
engine, do not let the wire rest on any hot/moving parts.  Take care not
to place the wire anywhere it will be pinched.  The STOCK oil pressure
sender is located on the engine, just to the right of the valve cover.
Pull off the plug, and remove the sender using the 22mm deep socket or
wrench.  Reinstall the NEW sender, with the 17mm wrench, take care not to
crossthread the head, or over tighten it, if you do, a nice leak will
occur.
  Attach a connector to the end of the green wire, and hook it up to the
terminal marked "G" on the NEW sender.  Cut the plug off the old sensor
wire, and install a connector on it, attach it to the other terminal off
the NEW sender.
  Reinstall the headlight switch, and check all wiring, and also check
for left over tools.  Reinstall the (-) to the battery.  Insert key to
the "on" position.  The gauge should set itself to 0 psi.  The oil
pressure light should blink as normal.  Start the car.  The oil pressure
gauge should move, the idot light should go out.  Check for leaks at the
sender.
 
        Pat yourself on the back!  Your finished!  A Job well done!

--
Dan Reed AKA Blu Max - blu@cellar.org - AnalCADGeek! - Industrial Music Maker
    68' Cougar XR-7, 89' VW Golf, 74' Honda CL360t, Vextrex Unit Lover
-Legal in California only for racing use, never to be used on a highway.-
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw