HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu
Subject: Re: faq?  How to keep whitewall tires white?
Organization: University of Louisville
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1992 16:07:22 GMT

In article <1992Aug20.193841.18054@linus.mitre.org>, droland@milner.mitre.org (David A. Roland - Summer) writes:
>> 
>> I put a set of Denman 560x15 whitewalls on my '57 VW bug about a year ago,
>> and they will not stay white.  A couple of sources have recommended Comet
>> cleanser, which I have tried a few times, was a lot of work, and still
>> left them a mild dingy brown.  I've been warned against the miracle 
>> whitewall bleaches cause they can do bad things to the tires long-term.
>>
> I use Fantastik (the kitchen appliance cleaner spray stuff) on my Jeep tires to clean the RWL that spend a lot of time in red clay and mud.  And they look like brand new when I get done, use a bathroom type bristle brush.  I've cleaned the tires often for over 2 years with no ill effects.  I think its cheaper than the just for tire stuff anyway especially for 33inch mudders!  And your more likely
> to have it around the house.  Also Armour All cleaner will work to but is 
> expensive.
> 
> -Al

I always just use an SOS pad and water.  It's always given great results.  Does
anyone know if this will hurt the tire?

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
|pH Fred == pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu    |         "What we lack         |
|        == ..!psuvax1!ulkyvx.bitnet!pgheit01 |   in enthusiasm, we make up   |
|           University of Louisville          |         for in apathy."       |
|                Louisville, KY               |                               |
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks)
Subject: Re: Over-heating and transmission questions.
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 13:19:54 GMT

In article <1992Aug25.155440.1048@msus1.msus.edu> fuchs@local.host writes:
>In article <1992Aug25.192618.25481@julian.uwo.ca>, wlsmith@valve.heart.rri.uwo.ca (Wayne Smith) writes:
>>In article <1992Aug25.132505.1047@msus1.msus.edu> fuchs@local.host writes:
>>>In article <1992Aug25.131702.24945@julian.uwo.ca>, wlsmith@valve.heart.rri.uwo.ca (Wayne Smith) writes:
>>>>I've got a few questions here.
>>>>Car: 1965 Dodge Polara
>>>>trans: 904 (rebuilt, but not by me)
>>
>>>PUT A THERMOSTAT IN IT.  IF YOU'VE BEEN READING THE NEWS HERE YOU WOULD SEE THA
>>(a thermostat restricts water flow to the rad, letting the water in the
>>rad get a little colder, but at the expense of the engine water getting a
>>little hotter).  One of these days I'm going to put together some 
>Sorry about the Caps I was too lazy to use the caps lock key.  Things that can
>affect cooling are ignition timing, plugged radiator, rust in engine, leaking
>head gasket and on and on. It could be that your rebuilt engine is still tight
>and is creating more heat than the radiator can handle.  Also as i asked
>someone else how accurate is your gauge?  Your tranny problem is something I

A mechanic friend of mine tells me it's not unusual for a rebored engine to
run hotter than it did before. No exact explanation, but I suppose it's a
combination of tightness and increased cylinder volume.
 
Ted Brooks
 ______________________________________________________________________
| Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are my own, and do not reflect    |
| those of my employer. Advice is free, but you get what you pay for.  |
|                               ________                               |
|                         _____|  1955  |_______                       |
|                        /      Chevrolet      /                       |
|                       /______  BelAir  _____/                        |
|                              |________|                              |
|______________________________________________________________________|
From: monica@raybans.cis.ufl.edu (Eva Monica Sweat)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: aftermarket car seats
Keywords: seats
Date: 1 Sep 92 21:22:42 GMT
Reply-To: monica@raybans.cis.ufl.edu (Eva Monica Sweat)
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Florida CIS dept.

Hi,

I'm posting to this group since you are the experts in refurbishing cars.  And as such, some of you may have had experience in purchasing aftermarket car seats.
I'm planning to replace the seats in my 1980 RX-7 (not an antique, I realize that!) with aftermarket seats.  I'd like to find a company or supplier that 
sells seats for a reasonable price.  
(Recaros are nice...but the price is probably prohibitive unless I find an 
incredible deal.)

Anybody out there know of suppliers that are discounters, or have good deals
on seats (not necessary for them to be Recaros)?  Any experience with the company?  Do they send out catalogs?

Please e-mail responses to me at this address:

monica@mosquito.cis.ufl.edu

Thanks for your help,
monica
From: brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: Re: Transmission question, and heaps of praise for Helicoil
Date: 4 Sep 92 12:52:47 GMT
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC

In article <1992Sep3.211505.6053@aio.jsc.nasa.gov> mike@drseus.jsc.nasa.gov (mike) writes:
>In article <1992Sep3.184110.18209@spdc.ti.com> achenbac@epcot.spdc.ti.com (Jeff Achenbach) writes:
>
>
>Back when I had my '49 Dodge truck, I learned to double-clutch down into
>first while moving.  You depress the clutch, slip into neutral, let out
>the clutch and raise the engine speed to just the right amount, and quickly
>hit the clutch and drop into first.  If the engine speed is right when you
>do it, it greases in smooth as silk.  This got to be almost second-nature

A good description of the process. The "right amount" of engine speed, of
course, being the rpm that the engine would be at if it was in 1st gear at
the current road speed. You're basically doing manually what synchros do
for you in other gears - matching the speed of 2 moving gears before 
engaging them.

>after a while.  If you're really good, you don't even have to push in the 
>clutch the second time, just engage the gear. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Of course, this no-clutching is not for the faint of heart, nor the
inaccurate in judging engine vs. gear rpms.  :-)
 
Ted Brooks
 ______________________________________________________________________
| Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are my own, and do not reflect    |
| those of my employer. Advice is free, but you get what you pay for.  |
|                               ________                               |
|                         _____|  1955  |_______                       |
|                        /      Chevrolet      /                       |
|                       /______  BelAir  _____/                        |
|                              |________|                              |
|______________________________________________________________________|
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: robie@umbc4.umbc.edu (Mr. William Robie; POSI (GRAD))
Subject: Re: Filling Holes
Organization: Univ. of MD, Baltimore County
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 01:40:12 GMT

In article <1992Aug31.151243.13214@walter.bellcore.com> mdl@phelixsalt (Michael Lynch) writes:
>
>My '53 Ford has battle damage to the right rear quarter ... [stuff deleted] 
... holes were drilled in the metal (to pull out an older dent).
>
>So my question is.......how do I fill these holes permanently?  Do I weld
>a patch behind the hole and fill it with weld bead?  Can I counter sink
>the holes a bit and fill them with lead?  What's the best approach?

One approach ("best" takes into account what you have the equipment to do) is
to weld the holes shut and work the bead of the weld down with a grinder and a 
fine abrasive disk.  You can then lead, or fill, the panel in as you please.  I
suppose that you would be best advised to find someone with MIG or TIG gear to
weld for you, but it can be done pretty nicely with oxy-acetylene, if you are
cautious and use a small tip (I find that a 00 works well to fill in holes in 
most car body metal).  By the way, a cheap heat dam can be made by soaking a
gob of toilet paper in water, then molding it to the body about 2" from the 
place you are welding (build sort of a "wall" around the hole you are 
welding, for instance). This will help keep you from heat-warping the panel.

Just an opinion: I respect those who want to go the extra mile to use
lead, but I am not going to bash plastic filler, either.  Used properly
(thinly applied onto well-prepared metal), it looks good and will last a
very long time.  

Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: thos@suite.sw.oz.au (Thomas Cohen)
Subject: Re: Sticky valves in rarely used engines
Organization: Softway Pty Ltd
Date:  1 Sep 92 22:18:37 GMT

In <btuqc5.7mb@wang.com> pvr@wang.com (Peter Reilley) writes:

>	I have a '66 Jag XKE that I run one or two times a year.   This
>time one intake valve stuck open.   After much work with carb

>	Should I;

>*	Put some additive in the gas?   If so what?

No. 

>*	Put some additive in the oil?   If so what?
No.

>*	Use expensive synthetic oil?
No.

>*	Use expensive gasoline?   Already necessary for the Jag
>	kind of a waste on the generator.
No.

>*	Run the engines more often?

A BIG yes. An engine should be run at least monthly, and long enough
for the exhaust, water and oil to get hot. If you don't run it the
seals can dry out and parts not in an oil bath can get a light coating
of rust.  Plus the fact (as you've found) valves that are in a 'down'
position can stick, and it does the valve springs no good to be squashed
for that length of time.
The exhaust has to get hot so that any condensation deposited in it
from the exhaust gases will boil off and get ejected. If you just start
the car and stop it the condensation will pool and rust through the
exhaust very quickly.

It would probably be a good idea to actually drive the car too, as this
will keep the brakes alive longer, and not leave flat-spots on the 
tyres.

regards,

-- 
thos cohen  				       |Softway Pty Ltd
 The best way to make a Japanese engineer wince|ACSnet:         thos@softway.oz
 is (when talking about an NSX) to say slowly  |UUCP: ...!uunet!softway.oz!thos
 'but its _not a Ferrari_ is it?' R.Bulgin, CAR|Internet:    thos@softway.oz.au
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: paal-sb@hsr.no (Paal Steinar Berg)
Subject: Alfa Romeo
Organization: Rogaland University Centre
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 10:21:37 GMT

Does anyone out there have Alfas?

Paal
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: mdl@phelixsalt (Michael Lynch)
Subject: Re: Transmission question, and heaps of praise for Helicoil
Reply-To: mdl@phelixsalt (Michael Lynch)
Organization: Bellcore
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 92 12:51:05 GMT


In my previous post I said "forward" pressure on the shifter at the
first gear position.  I've been driving 5-speeds too long.  You would
(of course) be pulling "back" into the first gear position on a 3-speed
floor-mount.


Mike Lynch
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: wlsmith@valve.heart.rri.uwo.ca (Wayne Smith)
Subject: Re: Over-heating and transmission questions.
Organization: The John P. Robarts Research Institute, London, Ontario
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 15:09:12 GMT

In article <1992Aug31.131707.23935@mcnc.org> brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks) writes:
>>If anyone's still reading this, I have a question regarding the head on
>>my slant-6.  Water enters the engine and circulates from #1 to #6
>>cylinder before moving up and entering the head through 2 large passages
>>at the back of the block  (this seems to be the same as some v-8's as
>>well).   My block and head also have 2 other passages that seem to enable
>>water to flow into the head without going all the way to the back of
>>the block first, but these passages are blocked by the head gasket.
>>
>>Does anyone know 1) why these passages are there and
>>                 2) what happens if I open one (or both) of them?
>
>Seriously, make sure you've got the right gasket. The slant 6 came in 170,
>198, & 225 cid displacements. There might be a difference between their
>blocks/heads/gaskets. Check it against your old head gasket too, if you still
>have it.

I still have the original (all metal) gasket, and it also blocks off these
passages.  There was no over-heating problem for a few years while that
gasket was in place.  My brother's '70 Cutlass 350 also has a passage or
2 that are blocked off.  His service manual, or a 1976 Plymouth/Volare
service manual (with the slant-6) point out these passages in diagrams
of the head/block, but they don't elaborate on when or if these passages
are used...
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks)
Subject: Re: Overdrives
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 13:18:14 GMT

In article <1992Sep4.104935.894@cbnewsi.cb.att.com> adh@cbnewsi.cb.att.com (andrew.d.hay) writes:
>In article <1992Sep3.183105.6459@mlb.semi.harris.com> jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger) writes:
>"
>
>" I know "They" used to have overdrive units which mounted to the tail of
>"conventional transmissions, and on fairly large cars too. Dunno about the
>"torque capacity, however. Anyway, anybody know if there was a GM offering
>"which is compatible with a TH400-style transmission, hopefully one that
>"can take 2000lb-ft in low range and 400 in high? Electric would be spiffy
>"but strength is key.
>
>i've never heard of any kind of oem overdrive-automatic combination.
>in addition, they were generally for use *only* with 2nd and 3rd.
>i don't think they were available with big-blocks at all.
>none of the american ods i've heard of were electric.  btw, i think
>borg-warner made them all.
>
>" I haven't seen any exernal overdrives in the 'yards, ever. Did they die
>"out in the '50s or what?
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
This type of overdrive was available into the '60s on 3 speed manuals. The
OD unit took the place of the standard tailshaft.

Current 5 speed OD's simply have an extra gear built into the gearbox. A
much simpler and more reliable design.

Another type of OD is the 2 speed rear axle. Columbia made a bunch of these
in the '30s, often installed as an aftermarket option on Fords & other cars.
2 speed axles are still seen on some medium duty trucks today. 

I think the  2 sp. truck rear axle might be strong enough to take what your
big block can dish out, if you flare your wheelwells _real_ wide.  :-)  :-)
 
Ted Brooks
 ______________________________________________________________________
| Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are my own, and do not reflect    |
| those of my employer. Advice is free, but you get what you pay for.  |
|                               ________                               |
|                         _____|  1955  |_______                       |
|                        /      Chevrolet      /                       |
|                       /______  BelAir  _____/                        |
|                              |________|                              |
|______________________________________________________________________|
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: Brake and fuel line replacement
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 01:39:29 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 Mid-Atlantic Performance Parts (specialty house for Cutlass/442/Skylark/GS)
sells steel brake tubing by the 25' roll for 1/4":$12 3/16":$11.50
and also stainless steel tubing for $3/foot. They have the ferrule nuts
individually; you need to know the sizes you require.

 They have a molded steel fuel line for $10, or a molded SS line for $160 (o
(ow).

 A pretty decent line of stuff; brake components, suspension, motor, trim.

 Mid Atlantic Performance Parts
 1-800-992-2006
(914) 735-7203
 20 Dexter Plaza
 Pearl River NY 10965

 Ole' lady sez I got better stuff to do than look at the rest of my
catalogs. Later.

 
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
From: jtchew@csa3.lbl.gov (JOSEPH T CHEW)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: Re: New 1965 Shelby 427 Cobras
Date: 4 Sep 92 21:10:36 GMT
Organization: Lawrence Berkeley Laboratory - Berkeley, CA, USA
Reply-To: jtchew@csa3.lbl.gov
NNTP-Posting-Host: 128.3.254.198
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.3-4   

>Some bureaucrat somewhere is probably working overtime trying to figure out
>how to require a cat and mufflers on these beasts.

You forgot the 5-mph bumpers and the little motor-mouse who runs along
the door with the shoulder harness in his teeth.  Forgive my blasphemy.

Car and Driver had an article on the forthcoming New Old Snake sale
a few issues ago, along with comparisons of some of the Cobra replicas.
The genuine article from Shelby will indeed be expensive, though of
course we won't know for sure HOW expensive until he completes and sells
a few.  My guess is that a few J. Alfred Gottrocks types will bid up the
first few, betting that the operation won't last long enough to dilute
the market.

It's all academic for me, of course, but I just hope they go to people
who will actually drive the beasts (or vintage-race them, dare we hope?).
The thought of an "investment Cobra" that sees daylight only when the
butler needs to sweep out the garage is kinda depressing.

--Joe
"Just another personal opinion from the People's Republic of Berkeley"
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: even@teknologi.agderforskning.no (Even Krogstad)
Subject: Wanted - Jaguar XKE for renovation
Organization: Agderforskning
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 12:43:47 GMT

Does anybody know where to get hold of a cheep Jag.XKE for renovation.
State: "Running cond." or "renovation object".
In my part of the world, most XKE's are renovated and extremely expensive.
Pref. production year 61 - 63 (we have special import taxes for cars older
then 30 years in Norway).
Any series-1 car is of interest.

Respons, E-mail, or  Even Krogstad
                     Agderforskning
                     Televeien 1
                     4890 Grimstad
                     Norway.
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: wlsmith@valve.heart.rri.uwo.ca (Wayne Smith)
Subject: Re: Over-heating and transmission questions.
Organization: The John P. Robarts Research Institute, London, Ontario
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 19:26:18 GMT

In article <1992Aug25.132505.1047@msus1.msus.edu> fuchs@local.host writes:
>In article <1992Aug25.131702.24945@julian.uwo.ca>, wlsmith@valve.heart.rri.uwo.ca (Wayne Smith) writes:
>>I've got a few questions here.
>>Car: 1965 Dodge Polara
>>trans: 904 (rebuilt, but not by me)

>PUT A THERMOSTAT IN IT.  IF YOU'VE BEEN READING THE NEWS HERE YOU WOULD SEE THA
>T A THERMOSTAT IS VERY NECESSARY IN KEEPING A CAR COOL.  TAKE IT BACK TO THE
>TRANY PLACE AND MAKE THEM FIX IT RIGHT.  ITS SOMETHING THEY'VE DONE.

Don't yell!  :)

I guess what I'm saying here is that the trans is still working like
it has for years, and I can't be sure that it used to down shift the
way I expect it should.  The torque converter was replaced because the
ring gear was chewed up in some spots by a bad starter bendix gear.
I even drove for a few k miles with the reverse gear in a non-functional
state.

I have put 160 and 180 degree thermostats in as well as no thermostat
and the presence of a thermostat makes no change in the temp of the engine.
The way I see it, it's kinda like 6 of one and 1/2 doz. of the other 
(a thermostat restricts water flow to the rad, letting the water in the
rad get a little colder, but at the expense of the engine water getting a
little hotter).  One of these days I'm going to put together some 
differential equations and model this system to see what's going on...
From: brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: Re: Over-heating and transmission questions.
Date: 31 Aug 92 13:17:07 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC

In article <1992Aug30.041256.18274@julian.uwo.ca> wlsmith@valve.heart.rri.uwo.ca (Wayne Smith) writes:
>In article <1992Aug28.170449.8172@dg-rtp.dg.com> brownr@hydra.rtp.dg.com (Randy Brown) writes:
>>>A mechanic friend of mine tells me it's not unusual for a rebored engine to
>>>run hotter than it did before. No exact explanation, but I suppose it's a
>>>combination of tightness and increased cylinder volume.
>>
>>Normally the reason is that you have less (thinner) cylinder wall to transport 
>>heat, and therefore it will run hotter.  On some cars, by the time you've done
>>an .060 overbore, you're getting close to the strength limit for the 
>>cylinder bores, since the walls are so thin to begin with.
>
>If the block is re-bored, then there is more heat than usuall as the rings/
>cylinder wall seat and polish themselves.

>If anyone's still reading this, I have a question regarding the head on
>my slant-6.  Water enters the engine and circulates from #1 to #6
>cylinder before moving up and entering the head through 2 large passages
>at the back of the block  (this seems to be the same as some v-8's as
>well).   My block and head also have 2 other passages that seem to enable
>water to flow into the head without going all the way to the back of
>the block first, but these passages are blocked by the head gasket.
>
>Does anyone know 1) why these passages are there and
>                 2) what happens if I open one (or both) of them?

Wait a minute. You've got an overheating problem, and you have a head gasket
that's blocking off 2 of the 4 existing water passages? I think I see a
connection.... :-)

Seriously, make sure you've got the right gasket. The slant 6 came in 170,
198, & 225 cid displacements. There might be a difference between their
blocks/heads/gaskets. Check it against your old head gasket too, if you still
have it.
 
Ted Brooks
 ______________________________________________________________________
| Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are my own, and do not reflect    |
| those of my employer. Advice is free, but you get what you pay for.  |
|                               ________                               |
|                         _____|  1955  |_______                       |
|                        /      Chevrolet      /                       |
|                       /______  BelAir  _____/                        |
|                              |________|                              |
|______________________________________________________________________|