HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: grimlok@hubcap.clemson.edu (Mike Percy)
Subject: Re: new questions - getting rid of spaces
Organization: Clemson University
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 13:44:23 GMT

fjh@munta.cs.mu.OZ.AU (Fergus James HENDERSON) writes:

>Don Nelson <nelson_don@comm.tandem.com> writes:

>>Actually, no C routine would be any faster than the one in my previous
>>example using reference modification (at least in all of the COBOL 85 
>>implementations I know about).

>What about RM/COBOL or ACU-COBOL?
>Any C _compiler_ will beat both of these, because they compile to byte-code
>and then interpret the byte-code, whereas the C routine will be compiled to
>machine code.
 
Well, yeah, a COBOL interpreter vs. a C compile would almost assuredly
lose, as would a C interpreter pareid against a COBOL compiler.  On an
IBM mainframe (like a 3090), IBM's VS-COBOL II compiler genereates very
good code.  Of course, this is partly because the evolution of the
instruction set paralleled and supported COBOL.  Many COBOL-II
statements translate to one machine instruction.

>Anyway, I doubt that it would be worth the trouble of mixing langauges...
>Much better to code the whole program in C :-)

After you buy or code your BCD library which supports at least 18
decimal digits, and an indexed file package like C-ISAM, get a good
outout editting library (for things like PIC $$$,$$9.99), etc.  Face it,
when programming for business needs,  COBOL is the leader of the pack.
I wouldn't write an expert system, compiler, or OS in COBOL (a friend
did use COBOL for his OS-simulator project in school -- to  prove a
point).  There are programming tools better suited to a task than
others, why fight it?

Mike Percy             | grimlok@hubcap.clemson.edu  | I don't know about
Sr. Systems Analyst    | mspercy@clemson.clemson.edu | your brain, but mine
Info. Sys. Development | mspercy@clemson.BITNET      | is really...bossy.
Clemson University     | (803) 656-3780              | (Laurie Anderson)
Newsgroups: alt.cobol
From: dlittle@sscvx1.ssc.gov (DENNIS LITTLE)
Subject: Re: Working cobol 650
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.4-b1  
Organization: Superconducting Super Collider Laboratory
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 20:54:00 GMT

In article <92279.134939UMASP@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>, <UMASP@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>                writes...
>You also need a file called DPATH.COM  from the same site you got
>the COBOL 650 compiler from.  This was mentioned in the documentation
>that the compiler had with it.
> 
>Have fun,
> 
>George Newell
>umasp@maine.bitnet

Any ideas on where this is going to be, FTP sites tend to have many files
and it isn't in the cobol directory of the ones I've looked and
Wuarchive.wustl.edu seems to be down at the moment anyway.

me
Newsgroups: alt.cobol
From: holger@vmars.tuwien.ac.at (Holger Reusch (Dipl. Gerhard + Joe))
Subject: Re: conversion of lower to upper case characters
Organization: Technical University Vienna, Dept. for Realtime Systems, AUSTRIA
Distribution: intergalactic
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 12:46:02 GMT

cs3ea3cd@maccs.dcss.mcmaster.ca (Abrams       J) writes:
>Can anyone tell me how to convert lowercase characters to uppercase
>in Watcom Cobol?

If you don't want to write a RYO routine, you can use

    INSPECT <variable> REPLACING ALL "a" WITH "A", "b" WITH "B",
      "c" WITH "C" {and so on until} "y" WITH "Y", "z" WITH "Z".

This works in all COBOL dialects I know.  Depending on the compiler,
it might be quite performance intensive, though.

-- 
| Holger Reusch                             |
| Technical University of Vienna, Austria <-+--- No kangaroos here,
| Dept. for Real-Time Systems               |    sorry!
| holger@vmars.tuwien.ac.at                 |
From: STEVEN.SULLIVAN@OFFICE.WANG.COM ("Steven M Sullivan")
Newsgroups: alt.cobol
Subject: Re: conversion of lower to upper case characters
Date: 29 Sep 92 17:12:02 GMT
Organization: Mail to News Gateway at Wang Labs

>Can anyone tell me how to convert lowercase characters to uppercase
>in Watcom Cobol?
>

I'm not sure about Watcom Cobol, but I solved that problem a few years ago by
using the following statement:

INSPECT VARIABLE-TO-CHANGE REPLACING ALL "a" BY "A", "b" BY "B", "c" by "C",
                                         "d" BY "E", "e" BY "E", "f" by "F",
                                         "g" BY "G", "h" BY "H", "i" by "I",
                                         "j" BY "J", "k" BY "K", "l" by "L",
                                         "m" BY "M", "n" BY "N", "o" by "O",
                                         "p" BY "P", "q" BY "Q", "r" by "R",
                                         "s" BY "S", "t" BY "T", "u" by "U",
                                         "v" BY "V", "w" BY "W", "x" by "X",
                                         "y" BY "Y", "z" BY "Z".

Admittedly, not very elegant, but it worked!


Steven M. Sullivan
Principal Systems Programmer
Wang Laboratories, Inc.
steven.sullivan@office.wang.com
From: roger.cravens@ehbbs.gwinnett.com (Roger Cravens)
Newsgroups: alt.cobol
Subject: Re: conversion of lower t
Date: 3 Oct 92 17:31:00 GMT
Reply-To: roger.cravens@ehbbs.gwinnett.com (Roger Cravens)
Organization: Ed Hopper's BBS - Berkeley Lake, GA - 404-446-9462

===========================================================================
 BBS: Ed Hopper's BBS
Subj: Re: conversion of lower t
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
SMS=>>>Can anyone tell me how to convert lower case characters to upper case
SMS=>>>in Watcom Cobol?
SMS=>>>

SMS=>>I'm not sure about Watcom Cobol, but I solved that problem a few years
SMS=>>ago byusing the following statement:

SMS=>>INSPECT VARIABLE-TO-CHANGE REPLACING ALL
SMS=>>         "a" BY "A", "b" BY "B", "c" by "C",
SMS=>>         "d" BY "E", "e" BY "E", "f" by "F",
SMS=>>         "g" BY "G", "h" BY "H", "i" by "I",
SMS=>>         "j" BY "J", "k" BY "K", "l" by "L",
SMS=>>         "m" BY "M", "n" BY "N", "o" by "O",
SMS=>>         "p" BY "P", "q" BY "Q", "r" by "R",
SMS=>>         "s" BY "S", "t" BY "T", "u" by "U",
SMS=>>         "v" BY "V", "w" BY "W", "x" by "X",
SMS=>>         "y" BY "Y", "z" BY "Z".

SMS=>>Admittedly, not very elegant, but it worked!

What the hey?  The only BAD algorithm is that one that won't or
refuses to work.
---
 . OLX 2.2 . COBOL programmers understand why women hate periods
                  
Newsgroups: alt.cobol
From: BHSTAM@LURE.LATROBE.EDU.AU (MATYAS,Thomas)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: burn test (was Sewing room recommendations)
Date: 2 Oct 92 05:02:08 GMT
 <TIGGER.92Sep6235727@satyr.Sylvan.COM>  
 <1992Sep21.131439.2459@cbnewsl.cb.att.com> 
 <TIGGER.92Sep21194351@satyr.Sylvan.COM> <1992Sep27.011912.24474@techbook.com> <1687010493.MAHE@Yal
Organization: La Trobe University
X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.24

In <1687010493.MAHE@YaleVM.YCC.Yale.Edu> MAHE@YaleVM.YCC.Yale.Edu writes:

> In article <1992Sep27.011912.24474@techbook.com>
> carolp@techbook.com (Carolyn Peterson) writes:
>  
> >Cotton, linen or rayon:  Burns quickly with a bright flame, glows
> >after flame is removed, smells slightly sweet, leaves hard, black
> >bead.
With cotton blends the synthetic should cause the whole lot to curl away
from the flame before the cotton ignites,then the smell...


>  
> But natural fibers don't leave a hard bead, they leave ash.
>  
> Godd summary.  On the whole, I'd go with the smell: if it smells
> like a plastic bag that wandered onto the stove, you can bet it's
> synthetic.
>  
> Marie-Christine
> mahe-marie-christine@yale.edu
Newsgroups: alt.sewing,rec.crafts.textiles
From: ilaine@panix.com (Liz Stokes)
Subject: Re: button tubes
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 12:38:29 GMT
Organization: PANIX Public Access Unix & Internet, NYC

In article <1992Sep30.012349.26132@news.vanderbilt.edu> vusl@athena.cas.vanderbilt.edu (VU Science Library) writes:
>Does anyone know where I can buy those long plastic tubes fabric stores
>use to hold their buttons?  When I ask my local store if I can buy from
>them, they say they don't stock them to sell, just to use.  Any ideas?

	Ask again, and try to get a manager, the clerks don't know how to do
anything out of the ordinary. You should be able to talk them into ordering
extra for you to buy, if they have any hustle at all.
					-Liz



-- 
Liz Stokes         | 	Ilaine's E-Z Garb Workshop
Ilaine de Cameron  | 	Before you can spin the wool, you need to comb it.
                   | 	Use the combs with the 5 rows of 6" razor sharp spikes.
ilaine@panix.com   |    Don't drink and comb - trust me on this.
From: manning@Oswego.EDU (Emilie R. Manning)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: test
Date: 4 Oct 92 18:53:35 GMT
Organization: SUNY Oswego

Just getting back on after a 2 year absence.
This is my first post.  It's great to have access again! 

Emilie
Date: Friday, 2 Oct 1992 19:47:04 EST
From: Wendy Campbell <WCAMPBEL@vma.cc.nd.edu>
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: costuming jobs

Sorry for use of net space but I could not get a message to Sarah.

Sarah,

Cannot help you with a j
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: vpmath1@sfsuvax1.sfsu.edu (Ruth Radetsky)
Subject: interfacing question
Organization: San Francisco State University
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 1992 19:42:04 GMT

Is there any reason not to use plain white cotton as interfacing fabric
on a silk blouse that is going to be drycleaned?
Also, does anyone know of a pattern for a peasant type blouse:
(square yoke front and back, very loose fitting, big sleeves, cuffs
or chemise dress with top fitting that description)
in a size 20 or there abouts?  or one I can alter to that description?



-- 
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Ruth Radetsky                              vpmath1@sfsuvax1.sfsu.edu
From: sallyh@StarConn.com (Sally Holmes)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: Height of sewing table and sewing room design
Date: 2 Oct 92 22:38:03 GMT
Organization: Starnet-Public Access UNIX--Los Altos, CA  415-949-3133

dvorah@agri.huji.ac.il writes:

>take out your yardsticks, please!
>After sewing for any period of time, i get backaches.
>I sew on my dining room table. I want to have a sewing table made,
>and I'd like to know what are standard hights for sewing tables.

Palmer/Pletsch Trends Bulletin No. 1, `The Newest in Sewing Room
Design', has some useful stuff about design, ideal heights and storage
options, and other considerations.

Mostly it's common sense, but it does serve as a useful reminder.

It says that the bed of the sewing machine should be about 30" off the
ground, which means the table top should be 26" - 28" off the ground.

Backaches may also result from sitting at the wrong level - I have an
office chair which I can adjust: that helps - or from having the sewing
machine placed too far back or to the side of your seating position.

Sally
From: jlecher@pbs.org
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: Weights Instead of Pins
Date: 5 Oct 92 22:11:49 GMT
Organization: PBS:Public Broadcasting Service, Alexandria, VA

In article <1992Sep28.165925.4445@mcnc.org>, deberry@mcnc.org (Mercedes Deberry) writes:
> Has anyone out there used weights instead of pins?  I am considering trying
> weights becouse pins 1) leave holes in some fabrics and 2) on hard, stiff
> fabrics like denim, it is hard to pin and causes me to tear my pattern.
> Any suggestions?

I use weights all the time. Pins are used mostly for small pieces and/or
new things that I haven't made before and need to see every notch.
Otherwise, for things that I make a LOT, such as my standard pants pattern,
I just lay about 6 layers of heavy cotton on the floor, and lay my
large pattern pieces on top, and weight them down with variously-sized
books from the nearby bookshelf. Since I've made these pants a million
times, I don't need to cut out notches or mark anything.
Works for me.

Now when I made my Kinsdale cloak, which is made out of heavy coat-weight
wool, I had to use the weight method there because there was NO WAY I
was going to be able to pin that heavy material. I was more careful, and
cut each piece individually, and weighted carefully, using large heavy
books in the center to hold it still, and lighter-weight books near
the edges, so I could cut accurately.
For really tiny stuff, such as baby clothes, I went to a hardware store
and bought the biggest washers I could find. They work beautifully for
the really small facings.

So you see, there's no need to spend a fortune on fancy weights. Just about
anything in your house that has weight to it will work. Even a cat, if you
can get one to sit still long enough! *heehee*

Jane
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: cowpatti@netcom.com (Patricia Mae Anthony)
Subject: Re: Weights Instead of Pins
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 01:14:58 GMT

In article <1992Sep28.165925.4445@mcnc.org> deberry@mcnc.org (Mercedes Deberry) writes:
>Has anyone out there used weights instead of pins?  I am considering trying
>weights becouse pins 1) leave holes in some fabrics and 2) on hard, stiff
>fabrics like denim, it is hard to pin and causes me to tear my pattern.
>Any suggestions?


I use weights whenever possible.  Less time consuming, more accurate to
cut
with a rotary cutter, and less damage to fabric and fingers all around.

CowPatti

-- 

@>-`,-->  @>-`,-->  @>-`,-->  @>-`,-->  @>-`,-->  @>-`,-->  @>-`,--> @>-`,-->
          (__)        (__)        (__)      ^
          (oo)        (oo)        (oo)     /
      _____\/__________\/__________\/_____/        D A N C E S 
     /  /\ / /      /\ / /      /\ / /
    ^  /  * /      /  * /      /  * /                W I T H
      / ___/      / ___/      / ___/     
 *----/W     *----/W     *----/W                   H O O V E S
     /  \        /  \        /  \
    /   /       /   /       /   /
   ^    ^      ^    ^      ^    ^
<--`,-<@  <--`,-<@  <--`,-<@  <--`,-<@  <--`, <@  <--`,-<@  <--`,-<@  <--`,-<@
From: rrah@troi.cc.rochester.edu (Runa Rahman)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Large envelopes for patterns, expensive tastes
Date: 28 Sep 92 14:55:04 GMT
Organization: University of Rochester (Rochester, NY)

In article <TIGGER.92Sep19105749@satyr.Sylvan.COM> tigger@satyr.Sylvan.COM (Grace Sylvan) writes:
>    I would just take a large envelope, 9x12? and put the pattern into it,
>    and just label the outside. Easier than trying to refold and stuff the
>    pieces all back into the tiny envelope.
> 

Yes, I have seen this tip before - Rusty Bensussen uses this method to store
ALL her patterns.  She says she mostly buys designer patterns which comes in
larger envelopes anyways - they must be Vogue patterns.  That's what I've
been doing lately, too.

It seems that my tastes are getting more expensive as time goes on, in
every aspect (clothes, food, housewares, now sewing stuff), wihout a corres-
ponding increase in funds! ;)  But, as I said before, quality, not quantity
(one of my roommates says why not quality AND quantity ;), but then it takes
away from the appreciation ;) ;) ;)

Runa
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: westphal@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com (Dorothy Westphal)
Subject: Re: Goodwill stores as a source - was Fabriholics Anon
Organization: Lockheed Missiles and Space Co.
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 92 18:52:50 GMT

What a wonderful surprise! I got on my news reader today,
and learned we finally have alt.sewing. The down side is,
the listings do not go back to day one; there were only 
the most recent seven. Can someone please tell me if there
are any faqs or such I should know about, that I would not
have learned about from the rec.arts.textiles newsgroup?
I am also in the quilting special interest group. 


-- 
Dorothy Westphal, Sunnyvale, Calif. % Just when things are going your way...%
westphal@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com   %               they get even better!   %
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: coat making:  any advice?
Date: 28 Sep 92 17:50:41 -0500
Followup-To: alt.sewing
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

In article <5953@arccs1.fed.FRB.GOV>, m1ges01@fed.frb.gov (Gretchen E Schmidt) writes:
> Susan richmodn writes:
>> 	I am from sunny, warm Fla. and will be travelling to St.Paul this winter for
>>  	their winter carnival.  ...
> 
> The best advice for cold weather wear is layering.  Also, wool will be _much_
> warmer than a synthetic fur.  Actually, I would think the fur would be easier
> to find since it can be used for stuffed animals.  If you do go this route, 
> you'll want a nice warm lining and maybe some, uh, what's it called, ... 
> Thinsulate.  By all means make a thick, soft scarf.  Little effort, great 
> payoff :-).

Don't neglect a good warm hat.  You lose about 30% of your body heat through
your head if it isn't covered.  You'll also want a good pair of boots
and liners.   IMHO, you'd be best off if you can borrow or have someone
buy coldweather gear for you from Goodwill, etc., and maybe invest in some
luxuries like silk longjohns and warm wool socks.

Kay Klier  Biology Dept  UNI  (who was always amazed to watch the
Florida kids bundled like it was -20, waiting at the bus stop in 45o
weather).




Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: fran@Cadence.COM (Fran Peterson)
Subject: Re: Chains for making handbag handles
Organization: Cadence Design Systems, Inc.
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 21:26:19 GMT

In article <0105009A.dhmvm5@david.roth-music.com> delena@roth-music.com (Delena E. Roth) writes:
>Has anyone made a purse from the new patterns available from Vogue/
>Butterick?

I make purses to match the shoes I cover and if I could find the chain you
discribe it was to expensive.  So, I went to all my local (and sometimes
not so local) thrift store.  It took several trips, patience and searching,
but I found just what I needed on a old purse someone had donated.  The 
purse was a mess but the chain was great.  I bought the purse for under $2
(chains cost about $4.95 for 40" here), I bought a strip of leather the
color I needed at the fabric store.  Took the purse home took the chain
off, pulled the old strip out of the chain.  Put the new strip of leather
throw the chain.  Connected it to the purse and it looks great.  

Whenever I need something like that I always check my local thrift stores
to see if I can find it there.  And, given enough time, I always find what 
I'm looking for.  And sometimes even more!

Good luck with your search.

F [:)

Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: cfeem@ux1.cts.eiu.edu (Eleanor Midkiff)
Subject: Re: Fax number for "Threads Magazine"
Summary: 800 # for Threads 
Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1992 20:43:14 GMT
Expires: ?
Organization: Eastern Illinois University
Keywords: Fax number, subscriptions
Followup-To: alt.sewing

In article <1992Sep29.114620.26364@syacus.acus.oz.au> grants@syacus.acus.oz.au (Grant Sayer) writes:
>Does anyone have the FAx number for the "Threads" magazine?  My wife
>is interested in subscribing and would like to contact their 
>subscription department.  We think that "Taunton Press" are the
>publishers.

 I just happen to have a copy of Threads open in front of me.  They don't
list a FAX number in their editorial statement, but their 800 # is:
1-800-888-8286.

Eleanor
-- 
Eleanor Midkiff
(cfeem@eiu.edu)
Xref: sparky alt.sewing:2959 rec.crafts.textiles:1783
From: swisher@cs.utexas.edu (Janet M. Swisher)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing,rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Re: Enviromentally-conscious sewing
Date: 2 Oct 1992 13:24:24 -0500
Organization: CS Dept, University of Texas at Austin
NNTP-Posting-Host: boogie.cs.utexas.edu

In article <1992Sep28.174350.7146@iscsvax.uni.edu>
klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes:

>Cotton is one of the most pesticide-intensive crops grown in the US.

This is slightly off the topic of fabrics, but ...  

If you are concerned about pesticides in your food, stay away from
anything that contains cottonseed oil.  Since cotton is not a food
crop, the growers are allowed to use nastier pesticides that are not
allowed on food crops.  But then they turn around and sell the seeds
for cottonseed oil, which is used in many pre-prepared foods because
it's cheaper than many other vegetable oils.  (Of course, if you're
really gung-ho on organic food, you're not buying Twinkies anyway :-)




Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: psburns@lims02.lerc.nasa.gov (MAUREEN BURNS)
Subject: "Seams Great" question
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
Date: 30 Sep 1992 13:46 EST  


I bought some Seams Great, and I cant figure out how to use it, even tho 
I've read the instructions.  I have the smaller width, (3/4" I think).
When I place it on the edge of the seam allowance, and pull it to curl it 
under, do I catch both the top and bottom of the Seams Great in the 
stitching?  In order to do that, I have to sew pretty close to the edge of 
the fabric, and sometimes the fabric is so fray-ey that it does no good.  
But if I pull the Seams great to curl it over the fabric edge, and just sew 
the top layer to the seam allowance, the seam allowance puckers up as if a 
piece of elastic was sewn to it.  

HELP!  WHat am I doing wrong?

Maureen


Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: motto@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (mary.rita.otto)
Subject: Kid Projects
Organization: AT&T
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 01:09:46 GMT


Greetings, friends in needlework and sewing.

I had an idea that really worked, and I wanted to pass it along to you.

My son, Jack, just turned 7.  He has been watching me sewing, but hadn't
tried it.  So, I suggested that he could make pillows for his grandfathers
for Christmas.  We bought a couple of printed panels with pheasants and
quail  on them.  I cut them into squares and sewed the zippers into the bottom
edges.  Then I helped Jack pin the other three squares together, and he
sewed the sides together himself.  Then, he turned the pillow covers right
side out and inserted the pillow forms, and zipped them closed.  Voila!
Great looking pillows.

Not only did Jack make something nice, but he really felt a sense of
accomplishment.

Mary Otto
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: joan@remtech.com (Joan Skoglund)
Subject: Re: Environmental fabric use; suggestions and question
Organization: Remtech Inc.
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 21:12:48 GMT

hill@acsu.buffalo.edu (Robin Hill) writes:

>Does anyone know of a mail-order source for organic cotton yardage,
>especially the stuff with the slight pastel tints bred into the cotton
>boll itself?  Esprit is using it for some clothing, so it must be
>available somewhere.
>                               

In the January (I think ) issue of Countryside an address was given
where you could either buy it or get more information about it.  We
have recently moved and my back issues of magazines are still packed.
Sorry to tantalize you without giving actual info, but perhaps you
can find the magazine or someone else on the net can come up with
the exact article.

Joan
From: sallyh@StarConn.com (Sally Holmes)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: neckline gaping open
Date: 3 Oct 92 03:08:19 GMT
Organization: Starnet-Public Access UNIX--Los Altos, CA  415-949-3133

In Clothilde's catalogue, I saw some stuff called `It Stays!': `Super 
roll-on body adhesive that washes off with water.' It claims to hold 
fabric to skin.

Not a long-term solution, but might be useful to preserve one's modesty
in an emergency, such as a ready-made bridesmaid dress that's cut a little
low.  Remember the photo of the then-Diana Spencer getting out of a limo, 
clutching unsuccessfully at the neckline of her very low-cut dress? 
Poor girl, she didn't have a bouquet to help cover her up: she needed 
`It Stays!' :-).

Sally
From: conib@peri.gvg.tek.com (Coni Britten)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: sleeves
Date: 28 Sep 92 22:17:18 GMT
Organization: Grass Valley Group, Grass Valley, CA

Mary Haskett (mmh2941@rigel.tamu.edu) wrote:
> every seam is nicely finished. But, what do I do with the armhole
> seam? How can I finish it professionaly (without a serger)?

I use Seams Great, which is a sheer bias binding.  I find it very easy to
use, but I do have one acquaintance who has difficulty with it, so your
milage may vary, of course!  Just be sure to pull on it a bit to see which
way it naturally wants to fold and then be sure to apply it taking that
natural fold into account. Trim the armhole seam to between 1/4 and 3/8
inch before applying the binding.

Coni B.
conib@peri.gvg.tek.com