HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jack@sybil.jpl.nasa.gov (Jack Kobzeff)
Subject: Re: Good mail-order source was Re: ditto for 'n' gauge
Followup-To: rec.models.railroad
Organization: Jet Propulsion Lab
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 00:18:35 GMT

In article <3039@tymix.Tymnet.COM>, romeo@niagara.Tymnet.COM (Michael
Stimac) wrote:
> 
> In article <1992Dec29.191640.8483@pool.info.sunyit.edu> johnh@tigger.rl.af.mil (John Hawthorne) writes:
> >
.... relate my experience with The Train Master in
> >Albany NY.  They are N scale specialists who seem to have a good
> >selection.  Last winter I ordered 2 cabooses from them that I could
> >not find elsewhere.  They processed the order against my credit card,
> >then notified me that the items were backordered.  They later informed
> >me that the cabooses had never been in stock and would not be, due to
> >problems at the manufacturer.  They issued me a credit instead.  When
> >I called and asked that the credit be applied to my Visa account, they
> >said that I would have to write them a letter asking for a refund, since
> >they would not do this by phone. ......
> 
> I had a similar experience with a place in South California called
> Lambert......
> 
> Lambert deposited my check and then sent me an invoice stating
> that the books I had ordered were "sold out". They gave me credit
> on "my account" with them. I called and asked them to please send
> my money back, and they were very snooty, and told me I'd have
> to wait 30 days from the time I called. I wound up getting the
> phone number for the Postal Inspector, and calling the president
> of Lambert - they issued me a check within days.
> 
> I feel that they should never have deposited my check if they
> had nothing to send me. Their attitude was "this is our policy".
> Michael Stimac

Most mail order dealers that I have dealt with will not even think of
processing your order until your check has CLEARED the bank, or they allow
a LONG time (usually about 10 days) from reciept of order for the check to
clear. While the company made it more difficult than necessary to get your
refund, processing the check before shipping the order is very, very
common. Another good reason to use a credit card. 
(Another reason is the card company can cancel payment on a disputed item.)

Jack Kobzeff     (jack@????.jpl.nasa.gov) Mail address changing
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: billg@bony1.bony.com (Bill Gripp)
Subject: Re: HO Turntables & Shinohara turnouts
Organization: LA&W RR
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 92 16:07:08 GMT

In article <1992Dec28.181833.24362@newstand.syr.edu> cwebster@rodan.acs.syr.edu (Chris Webster) writes:

>and would like to have a turntable on it.  Since I've decided that
>scratchbuilding is out, I've been looking at commercial models.  The two
>that seem to be available are the Bowser (14", 16", 18") and Heljan
>(14") kits.  The Heljan kit can be had for $50-$60 while the Bowser
>is about twice that.  Has anyone installed either of these on a module
>that got bounced around a lot?  Are either rugged enough to stand up to
>module transportation?

I recently bought the Heljan.  It's styrene so should hold up about as
well as a typical styrene structure (I imagine on modules the buildings
are removable).  BTW, it can be bought for ~$25 via mail order from Toy
Train Heaven or Standard Hobby Supply.

Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: brom@yoyo.cc.monash.edu.au (David Bromage)
Subject: EditTrak
Organization: Monash University General Access Unix
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8]
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 01:23:41 GMT


Following several queries about EditTrak and where to get it, I thought
about posting it here. Any objections?

Cheers
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
David Bromage       brom@yoyo.cc.monash.edu.au   : 
Monash University                                : "I think thinking is 
Clayton, Victoria   				 :  so important"
 Australia                                       : 	-Baldrick
 						 :   
     May the source be with you			 :     
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
	All views expressed are my own except those which conflict with
	my personal opinions.

Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: pratta@aix.rpi.edu (Anthony Edward Prattico)
Subject: Re: Bachmann motor
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 16:43:39 GMT

In article <ardie.167.724942465@UIUC> ardie@UIUC (R.D. McClary) writes:
>     I bought a bunch of HO stuff a few years ago (before discovering I was 
>in fact a born Flyer Hi-Rail-er).  I was about to pitch/give away 
>everything.  However, I am also considering putting a can motor in my 
>Baldwin switcher.  Would the motor from a Bachman U-36-B work?  It would 
>need to be able to take upwards of 5 amps AC without frying.  As I will need 
>to pay upwards of $30 for a reversing unit, I would like to salvage whatever 
>other parts I can.  Thanks.
>                                           Richard Mc
>                                           ardie@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu


Bachman motors are designed to use DC only. The motor won't go anywhere when
connected to an AC supply. It will try t osscillate back and forth. A DC motor
relies on the current travelling in the same direction to maintain a direction
of rotation. If AC were applied to it, it would try to oscillate. Also, the
motor detemines the current draw. The motor will not draw 5 amps unless there
is something seriously wrong with it. Most low quality motors like Bachmans
draw only 2 amps or so under stall conditions. 

I think you need to brush up on your electronics a bit before you proceed.

-Anthony Prattico

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
pratta@rpi.edu		Anthony_Prattico@mts.rpi.edu
You can't have my opinions even if you wan them.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: ed@stauff.UUCP (Edward L. Stauff)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: Re: Good mail-order source was Re: ditto for 'n' gauge
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 92 22:52:22 EST
Organization: Minstrelsy & Lutherie

ehr@ecsvax.uncecs.edu (Ernest H. Robl) writes:

> Walther's has a retail unit called Terminal Hobby Shop.  They will
> sell by mail order any item in the Walthers catalog -- at the 
> retail price listed in the catalog plus shipping.
> 
> I've ordered a number of things from them over the years and have
> always gotten good service.  Turn-around from the time I drop the
> order in the mail until the UPS package shows up at my door is 
> normally under two weeks.  I normally order with a credit card.

This is interesting.  I have heard repeatedly over the years at my local
hobby shop that Walthers is extremely undependable, both for delivery
time and what's in stock.  I've never ordered from Terminal Hobby Shop,
partly because of these rumors I've heard.
Is it possible that my hobby shop was trying to discourage me from making
a special order?  Does Walthers' wholesale have a different reputation
from their retail outlet?


=============================================================================
Edward L. Stauff, Nashua NH; ed@stauff.UUCP *or* uunet!mv.com!gozer!stauff!ed
        "Specialization is for insects." -- Lazarus Long
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: jones@pyrite.cs.uiowa.edu (Douglas W. Jones,201H MLH,3193350740,3193382879)
Subject: Re: Please help with my track-building problem!
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 20:29:42 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: University of Iowa, Iowa City, IA, USA

From article <BzzE75.GxM@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu>,
by smeyer@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu (Scott Meyer):
> been following some pretty good published instructions. I first
> laid the roadbed (AMI Instant Roadbed), then laid the ties
> (Kappler standard size ties -- they're made of sugar pine) after
> spacing them on a jig that I built.

	Prototype ties are probably less uniformly spaced than what
	you've laid, except on the very best maintained trackage.
	Hand spacing by eyeball produces a prototypical degree of
	irregularity.

> After the ties were in place, I sanded the tops of them until they
> formed a fairly smooth surface.

	I just use the edge of a file, and cut down through the high
	ties to the level of the lower ones along the line where the
	rail will go.  This matches the prototypical practice of
	cutting a seat for the rail, and it avoids the unprototypically
	uniform look you get from a sanding block.

> I ran into problems when I started trying to spike the rails in
> place. My problem: the ties split in half when I try driving a
> spike through them! Every time! The spikes are 7/16", 0.028"
> diameter Walthers blackened metel spikes, nice and sharp. The
> rail is code 100.

	I use Railcraft spikes -- nice and slim, and I've never had
	problems with ties splitting.  I use a mix of campbell ties
	and others (any brand of profile tie will do, and the slight
	variations in length and thickness give a prototypical degree
	of irregularity to the track.  I've also taken to ripping my
	own bridge and trestle ties from old cedar paneling I happen
	to have a lot of.

> I wondered if the still-plastic AMI roadbed was somehow related
> to the problem, so I experimented by trying to drive a spike
> through a tie placed directly on a scrap of plywood.

	I doubt that this is the problem.

> solution to me); it didn't work. I've tried (1) driving the
> spikes with a tack hammer and a small punch, and (2) shoving the
> spikes into place with needle-nosed pliers.

	I shove spikes in with needle nose pliers.  I've never had
	problems with splitting.

> I would appreciate any expertise that this newsgroup can bestow
> on me regarding this. Are the spikes too long? Are they too fat?

	I suspect that the spikes are too fat.  Most spikes sold on
	the HO market are about O or even 1 scale.  The railcraft
	spikes are very slim, by comparison.

> Should I try different ties (basswood, for instance)?

	Basswood should work, that's what Campbell ties are made of.
	I've had no problems with cedar, and I don't see why yellow
	pine shouldn't work.

					Doug Jones
					jones@cs.uiowa.edu
From: romeo@niagara.Tymnet.COM (Michael Stimac)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: Re: Good mail-order source was Re: ditto for 'n' gauge
Date: 1 Jan 93 23:35:38 GMT
Organization: BT North America (Tymnet)

In article <Z0iowB2w164w@stauff.UUCP> ed@stauff.UUCP (Edward L. Stauff) writes:
>ehr@ecsvax.uncecs.edu (Ernest H. Robl) writes:
>
>> Walther's has a retail unit called Terminal Hobby Shop.  They will
>> sell by mail order any item in the Walthers catalog -- at the 
>> retail price listed in the catalog plus shipping.
>> 
>> I've ordered a number of things from them over the years and have
>> always gotten good service.  Turn-around from the time I drop the
>> order in the mail until the UPS package shows up at my door is 
>> normally under two weeks.  I normally order with a credit card.
>
>This is interesting.  I have heard repeatedly over the years at my local
>hobby shop that Walthers is extremely undependable, both for delivery
>time and what's in stock.  I've never ordered from Terminal Hobby Shop,
>partly because of these rumors I've heard.
>Is it possible that my hobby shop was trying to discourage me from making
>a special order?  Does Walthers' wholesale have a different reputation
>from their retail outlet?
>

Two data points -

A friend of mine runs a large hobby shop in a big city. About
a year ago he toured the Walthers warehouse as part of a
convention of hobby industry dealers, suppliers, etc. Afterward
he confided to me that he was shocked at the extremely
sparse inventory on their warehouse shelves.

I've had poor luck "getting it from Walthers" over the years.
One time I had my dealer order several dozen wheelsets from
them for me. Now, wheelsets are a pretty basic item in this
hobby. Walthers delivered exactly ONE wheelset to my dealer;
the rest were back-ordered! This is supposed to be a nation-wide
distributor? They didn't even have enough wheelsets for a
single boxcar (!) - how the H*** are they going to supply
hobby shops all across the US???

(I gave up on Walthers for wheelsets, and have been getting
them reliably from Northwest Shortline ever since).

No doubt we'll all now hear from the fellow on the net who is
related to the Walthers family telling how great they are....

Michael Stimac
-- 
Michael Stimac
(415) 355-8889
romeo@tymnet.com
These opinions are not necessarily anyone's but my own.
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: ardie@UIUC (R.D. McClary)
Subject: Bachmann motor
Organization: Department of Plant Pathology
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 12:54:25 GMT

     I bought a bunch of HO stuff a few years ago (before discovering I was 
in fact a born Flyer Hi-Rail-er).  I was about to pitch/give away 
everything.  However, I am also considering putting a can motor in my 
Baldwin switcher.  Would the motor from a Bachman U-36-B work?  It would 
need to be able to take upwards of 5 amps AC without frying.  As I will need 
to pay upwards of $30 for a reversing unit, I would like to salvage whatever 
other parts I can.  Thanks.
                                           Richard Mc
                                           ardie@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: andre@king.slc.mentorg.com (Andre' Hut)
Subject: Re: Improving HO ConCor superliners
Organization: /net/king/usr1/andre/.organization
Date: 28 Dec 92 09:55:40

In article <1992Dec26.215207.18013@newstand.syr.edu> cwebster@rodan.acs.syr.edu (Chris Webster) writes:
   For Christmas, my signifigant other gave me a HO Amtrak Coach/Baggage
   Superliner.  It's a nice car, but needs some work, as does most of my
   equipment.  I know how to handle adding weight and that someone makes
   the correct trucks and diaphrams, but what can I do for interiors
   on this and other superliners?  Can I tint the windows somehow?  |Is
   that prototypical?  Suggestions for adding kadee couplers?  

   Thanks for all your suggestions.

Yes, there is a company that makes the correct prototypical trucks,
(they are black, and accept KD#5 easily) and diaphrams.  I used these
on 9 of these cars.  In addition, I stripped the rotten paint job Con-Cor
puts on these and repainted and decaled them.  I got around the whole
interior problem by replacing the clear plastic windows with tinted
plexiglass.  You can still look into the cars if you put your eye right up
to a window, but otherwise they look exactly like the prototype.
I weighted them to about 9 ounces, using sheet lead.

Just my .02 worth, since I spent months working on this very train.
--
-------------------------------------------------------------------
My opinions are solely my own, and do not necessarily reflect those
of my employer.

Andre' Hut       andre@slc.mentorg.com  or  utah-cs!caeco!andre
Mentor Graphics, Suite 300, 5295 South 300 West, Murray, Utah 84107
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Xref: sparky rec.models.railroad:2770 rec.railroad:10255
From: calinski@calspan.com (Peter Calinski)
Subject: Thanks for all the "Help with a Lionel Transformer"
Organization: Calspan Advanced Technology Center
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 14:49:56 GMT

I want to thank all the people that replied to my request.  I received more 
than a dozen replies.  All of them where very good.  In particular the info
on the schematic was most helpfull.

FYI the problem wasn't in the breaker, it was a high resistance joint in the
DIRECTION/WHISTLE switch.  Under conditions of heavy load (ie train shorting
the track) there was a 4-5 Volt drop across the switch.  This caused 3 things:

1) The switch (and therefore the whole transformer) got very hot.

2) This high resistance joint limited the current enough that the circuit
   breaker didn't get to the trip point.

3) There wasn't enough Volts to run the whistle.


If anyone else has  this TW type transformer, the DIRECTION/WHISTLE switch
depends on 3 mechanical connections to deliver the current.  One of them
is from the wiper of the switch to the shaft. the shaft is "white metal"
not copper.  That is the connection that was bad.  Since the wiper and
shaft turn together, I used a file to knick the two at one place.  Then
I put a "dot" of solder across the knick.  Seems to work fine.


Again thanks for all the help.  There are a lot of good, helpful people
out there.


Pete

calinski@calspan.com
 
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: "bernie wong" <bernie.wong@canrem.com>
Subject: enterprise model colour
Reply-To: "bernie wong" <bernie.wong@canrem.com>
Organization: Canada Remote Systems
Distribution: rec
Date: 26 Dec 92 23:34:42 EST

Hi all.  I just got the Star Trek: The Next Generation U.S.S.
Enterprise-D model from AMT-ERTL (stock no. 6619) and would like to know
the correct paint colour for it.  The instruction manual says that it is
"...molded in color so painting is not necessary.".  However, I would
like to paint it.  I can't identify by eye what colour it is molded in,
but if somebody (perhaps from AMT-ERTL) knows could they please tell me
what the colour is?  I, personally, would like to re-paint the model
even though it is "...molded in color...".

Please reply via E-MAIL at bernie.wong@canrem.com.  Any help would be
greatly appreciated.  Thank you!


-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Jason Wong
Calling from Markham, Ontario CANADA.  It's not cold though!  :-)
INTERNET E-MAIL: bernie.wong@canrem.com



... Wrong us, shall we not revenge.  Chang
___ Blue Wave/QWK v2.12
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
From: abrown@vax.clarku.edu
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: HO Train and Accessories Quality
Date: 30 Dec 92 18:47:49 GMT
Organization: Clark University

Hi out there! I'm new to the net and also just getting back into model rail-
roading. Need some advice. For the quality and the money, what are some brand
names to begin with as for as trains and acccessories are concerned? Also, any
good suggestions on a beginning layout. And last but not least, what are some
of the better magazines, mail order companies, and where can I get videos. I
realize there are a lot of questions here, but anwsers to some or all are
appreciated. Thanks a lot. I have some ideas but just wanted to hear from some
experienced people out there.
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: smeyer@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu (Scott Meyer)
Subject: Please help with my track-building problem!
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 18:04:02 GMT

I've been trying to hand build some track lately, and I've had a
problem that I need some help with. First some background
information. This is HO scale pike that I'm building, and I've
been following some pretty good published instructions. I first
laid the roadbed (AMI Instant Roadbed), then laid the ties
(Kappler standard size ties -- they're made of sugar pine) after
spacing them on a jig that I built. After the ties were in place,
I sanded the tops of them until they formed a fairly smooth
surface. 

I ran into problems when I started trying to spike the rails in
place. My problem: the ties split in half when I try driving a
spike through them! Every time! The spikes are 7/16", 0.028"
diameter Walthers blackened metel spikes, nice and sharp. The
rail is code 100.

I wondered if the still-plastic AMI roadbed was somehow related
to the problem, so I experimented by trying to drive a spike
through a tie placed directly on a scrap of plywood. Still no
luck. The tie split like a piece of cordwood. I also tried
blunting a spike befrore driving it (my brother-in-law,
experienced in carpentry, suggested this unlikely-sounding
solution to me); it didn't work. I've tried (1) driving the
spikes with a tack hammer and a small punch, and (2) shoving the
spikes into place with needle-nosed pliers.

I would appreciate any expertise that this newsgroup can bestow
on me regarding this. Are the spikes too long? Are they too fat?
Should I try different ties (basswood, for instance)? Can anyone
suggest equipment that has worked for them? Please don't suggest
that I use sectional track; I'm determined to build my track from
scratch.

Post replies to this newsgroup or send email to 
s-meyer@sun.sws.uiuc.edu. Thanks!
From: czl30@DUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Chris Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: Atlas RSD4/5, which Kadees?
Date: 23 Dec 92 16:18:58 GMT
Reply-To: czl30@DUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Chris Lee)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

Hi rec.models.railroad-ers

I recently bought the Atlas RSD4/5, and need to fit Kadee couplers. Does
anybody know which couplers to use?

The original NMRA couplers were attached to the body, but the plastic
seems rather thin and flexible here. Either this would need reinforcing
or the couplers should get attached to the chassis.

The engine runs quite smoothly. I think the mechanism is Kato, but it's
not as heavy or quiet as the Stewart F3s (also Kato). If so, it should be
quite powerful, but because none of my stock has NMRA couplers I haven't
seen how much it will pull. Also, I don't want to risk breaking the thin
and flexible running board.

Thanks for your help.....Chris Lee
From: romeo@niagara.Tymnet.COM (Michael Stimac)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: Good mail-order source was Re: ditto for 'n' gauge
Date: 30 Dec 92 02:11:42 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: BT North America (Tymnet)

In article <1992Dec29.191640.8483@pool.info.sunyit.edu> johnh@tigger.rl.af.mil (John Hawthorne) writes:
>
>I've been happy with service from Toy Train Heaven and Standard Hobby,
>but would also like to relate my experience with The Train Master in
>Albany NY.  They are N scale specialists who seem to have a good
>selection.  Last winter I ordered 2 cabooses from them that I could
>not find elsewhere.  They processed the order against my credit card,
>then notified me that the items were backordered.  They later informed
>me that the cabooses had never been in stock and would not be, due to
>problems at the manufacturer.  They issued me a credit instead.  When
>I called and asked that the credit be applied to my Visa account, they
>said that I would have to write them a letter asking for a refund, since
>they would not do this by phone.  I think it is reprehensible to charge
>me for items that were never in stock, and then make it so difficult
>to get a refund.
>

I had a similar experience with a place in South California called
Lambert. They sell books, videotapes, etc. and do business with
a slightly different name depending which things you're trying
to buy. Anyway, they're called Lambert.

My experience was to order several railroad books from them, out
of their catalog. Several of the books I'd never heard of before
(neither advertised nor in good railroad-oriented hobby stores)
so it seemed like they were new books that had just been published.
I sent a check for approx. $60 with my order.

Lambert deposited my check and then sent me an invoice stating
that the books I had ordered were "sold out". They gave me credit
on "my account" with them. I called and asked them to please send
my money back, and they were very snooty, and told me I'd have
to wait 30 days from the time I called. I wound up getting the
phone number for the Postal Inspector, and calling the president
of Lambert - they issued me a check within days.

I feel that they should never have deposited my check if they
had nothing to send me. Their attitude was "this is our policy".
I agree with the previous poster that it is reprehensible for them
to keep my money for what amounted to 60 days - I loose the
interest, they get cash on-hand to keep their business going.
Plus, I had a devil of a time getting my money back; they were
very unhelpful. 

Unless you want to risk this kind of difficulty, do not order
books or videos from Lambert in S. California.

Michael Stimac
-- 
Michael Stimac
(415) 355-8889
romeo@tymnet.com
These opinions are not necessarily anyone's but my own.