HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: bjgaed@bb1t.monsanto.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Stud Kits in 40 hp heads, torque?
Date: 5 Oct 92 07:11:55 CST
Organization: Monsanto Company, St. Louis, MO

Hi, VW Netters--

Had a novel experience this weekend.  The '64 Ghia, stock 40hp, is 
about 900 miles into it's newly-overhauled engine.  Rolling down the 
highway Sunday morning when I lost partial power and the engine 
started running rough.  Pulled over, checked the obvious things like 
spark plug wires, timing, etc., everything seemed nominal, engine nice 
and cool.  Babied it home on 3 cylinders and started checking.

Compression was 130 on all four cyls, timing and dwell O.K., good 
strong spark all around, but the spark plug in No. 4 was black.  There 
was a funny popping noise, not really a backfire, which went away when 
I pulled off No. 4 plug wire while running, but the engine ran at the 
same rpm with No. 4 on or off, so No. 4 wasn't firing.  

I didn't think it could be a stuck valve with those compression 
numbers, but I pulled off the left valve cover with No. 4 at TDC to 
check the valve clearances.

The valve clearances were about 4 mm (!), and the pushrods had come out of 
the rocker arm cups.  Something didn't look right, so I jiggled the 
rocker shaft, and it was loose.  Both bolts had worked loose, the 
rear more than the front, so No. 3 was still firing but No. 4 wasn't 
opening its valves at all.  Retorqued the bolts, let the engine 

Now to the question:  When I overhauled I got two rebuilt heads that 
had had stud kits installed.  These kits were not the insert-and-stud 
type I've seen before, but there were inserts with a slot across the 
top to tighten them in with a big screwdriver, and  high strength bolts 
to hold the rockers on.  The only rubber ring seal that seemed to fit 
were the smaller donut shape from the gasket set, and I torqued these 
to 10, then 14 ft-lbs as per the instructions in Muir and the VW 1200 
shop manual.  Is this right for this type of stud kit?  The seals 
seemed to get crushed in the tightening process as there is no recess 
for them to fit in.  Should I have used seals at all?  Did I use the 
correct torque?  Is 0.004 in (0.1mm) the correct valve setting with 
the stud kit installed?

In the future I will always retorque the rocker arm bolts before I do 
the valve adjustment, but I can't help but suspect that those rubber 
seals are wrong, and as they flatten out the rockers are going to 
loosen up.  Why are those seals under there anyway?  To keep oil from 
working down the stud threads?  (Doesn't seem likely.)

 
--Electric Monk            (Bruce Gaede); 
                            e-mail: bjgaed@ccmail.monsanto.com

"...and then time started seriously to pass."
--Douglas Adams, _Dirk Gently's Holistic Detective Agency_
From: rchong@hpscit.sc.hp.com (Raymond Chong)
Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1992 23:29:49 GMT
Subject: Re: ** INFO ON VW CORRADO V6 **
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Clara, CA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw

In rec.autos.vw, hoav@netcom.com ( H o a  V u ) writes:

> [1] ** INFO ON VW CORRADO V6 **
> Hi,


> Has any body driven the new VW CORRADO V6 yet ?

> Can you comment on the car of how it drives ?

> Can you also comment on the car engine and its specifications
> (anything special about this v6 engine ?)


> What is a reasonable price on this 1992 car ?


> vu




Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty)
Subject: Re: Tires
Organization: New York State Institute for Sebastian Cabot Studies
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 22:17:16 GMT

In article <97181@bu.edu> nicos@cs.bu.edu (Nicos Kontopoulos) writes:

>Most people use BFG Comp T/A R1 or Yoko A008 for autocrossing, racing etc.
>I will need to by such a "sticky" tire sometime next spring. My question
>is, is there only one tire that is called Comp T/A R1 and one tire
>that is called Yiko A008, or are these a series of tires? Some people
>have discussed differences in compounds etc. Please help...

there have been a number of tires from both BFG and from Yokohama
under these labels over the years.

in any given season, BFG will have a road race version of the R1 and
an autox version; the road race version will carry a fairly high
speed rating (H, V, or Z) and the autox version will carry no speed
rating at all.  the autox R1 will tend to heat up very quickly, and
if subjected to any extended high speed runs, will start to deteriorate
rapidly.  the road race version will take somewhat longer to heat up,
but will last through extended runs.

Yokohama has produced various R versions of the A008.  the first
(now obsolete) version was the A008R.  that tire was replaced about
3 years ago by the A008Rtu.  the Rtu was replaced a year and a half
ago by the A008RS; many of us miss the more durable A008Rtu.  i know
that i'm going through the RS tires a great deal faster than i went
through the Rtu tires.  finally, this year Yoko introduced the
A008RS II in limited sizes, specifically for autox purposes.  the
older A008RS is available in many more sizes, and is much cheaper.
i've not driven on the RS II; i've not needed such a tire, and it isn't
available in a size i could use even if i wanted some.

cheers,
  richard
-- 
richard welty                            518-393-7228
welty@cabot.balltown.cma.com
  ``if you can read this, mario, you're too close''
    -- bumper sticker seen on a CART safety truck
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: S7041551@deimos.ucc.umass.edu (Lew Stead)
Subject: Save my floor!
Organization: University of Massachusetts at Amherst
Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1992 14:59:18 GMT
X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.20

Last month I bought a 73 Beetle, completely restored.  Part of the restoration
was a new floor.  My problem now is that water is somehow getting into the
bug and collecting under the rubber mats (were these designed to promote sales
of floors for VW?).  I've scooted all over under the car, plus had it looked
over by my mechanic when I bought it and I can't find any holes in the floor
at all.  The rubber seals on the doors and windows are all new and I've tested
them at the car wash.  A few drops got in when I hit it with the high pressure
hose, but I'm sure this isn't where this is coming from.

The problem seems to be occuring when the car is stationary and there is a
heavy downpour and wind, like a T-storm or the edge of the Tropical Storm
that's out there today preventing me from doing an oil change/valve adjustment.
It's not a whole lot of water, but enough to contribute to a rust problem.

My only clue is that there appears to be some old water damage from a leak in
the right rear "ceiling" vents -- the ones between the rear seat window and
the rear "windshield."  This was the first thing I checked the last time I
found water, but the vents seemed dry (but enough time from the rain had passed
that it could have evaporated).  It's also in the same quarter that most of the
water seems to find its way to.  Where do these vents lead?  And are there any
other likely places: the heating ducts, firewall, or anything else that might
have a leak?

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: scholz@osf.org (Carl Scholz)
Subject: VW Salvage yards? (need 90-91 Jetta wheel centercaps)
Keywords: junkyard salvage hubcap centercap
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 14:50:09 GMT

Can anyone recommend some VW specializing salvage yards?  I know of some local junk yards that carry VW stuff, but I'm really looking for a place willing to ship things that deals in lots of late model VW parts.  I know of similar places that deal in other marques, but no VW places.

Specifically, I'm looking for the small flush centercaps that appear on 90-91 Jetta GL's (the wheels they fit on are the *14x6 steel* ones).  The center caps are about 6-8 inches in diamater, have a thin black stripe at the edge and are almost all plain silver-painted plastic with a small VW insignia near one edge.  If you really care, the part number is 191 601 149 G.  I need three of them.

Carl
_______________________________________________________________________________
Carl S. Scholz                           Open Software Foundation
scholz@osf.org OR uunet!osf.org!scholz   Cambridge, MA   (617) 621-8996
"Them that takes cakes which the Parsee-man bakes makes dreadful mistakes." -RK
 [Disclaimer: just me yapping, not my employer]
From: silverst@ecs.umass.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Gislaved Tires
Date: 26 Sep 92 13:46:39 GMT

I just got a pair of 175/70 Gislaved tires for my 1985 Jetta.  Apparently 
they are the top of the line model.  I was curious as to whether anyone has
heard of these tires before, and if they are supposed to be any good.

Bob
Subject: Re: Just got some Neuspeed Springs
Organization: University of Maine System
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From:    michael@maine.maine.edu (Michael Johnson)
To:      NETNEWS@MAINE
Date:    Tue, 29 Sep 92 15:32:39 EDT

In article <1992Sep28.081708.1@ulkyvx.louisville.edu>
kpjone01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu writes:
>pretty bad.  Next on the list is some good shocks.  Anyone got any ideas
>for shocks that will match Neuspeed's springs?

Try Koni or Bilstein. APS sells both.

I have a set of Neuspeed springs for my Fox sedan, and am waiting for the
shocks to arrive. When they do, I expect to have some fun!

This last weekend I put on the front and rear Neuspeed anti-sway bars that
arrived with the springs. Fantastic! Anyone who has a Fox knows that they
lean terribly in corners. To quote Inspector Clouseau: "Net Anymure".

Michael Johnson, VM Systems Group                     michael@maine.maine.edu
"I will choose the path that's clear. I will choose Free Will." -- Neil Peart
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: eldred@rrunner.jpl.nasa.gov (Dan Eldred)
Subject: Re: bus CV problems
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 17:08:36 GMT

In article <1ac88kINNjlc@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy) writes:
>
>Hey now, all!
>I always seem to get stung when I'm only trying to do the right thing...
>
>I had my rear wheels torn apart to rebuild the brakes, so I figured I 
>should repack the CVs and wheel bearings while I was at it.  Good of me,
>no?  So I pulled off the axle, took apart the CVs to clean them, being
>very careful not to mix the parts of one with the other, put them back
>together with instructions from St. John Muir and Haynes, greased them
>up, and whamo! they're all screwed up.  They no longer move in the
>directions they're supposed to- i.e. they don't want to "joint".  Like
>absolutely NO movement in the plane that's perpendicular to the axle.
>So consequently, they won't go back to where they belong.  Now, I've
>taken them back apart and tried to figure out what went wrong and I'm
>at a loss.  My next step is to take the other side out and compare, but
>you can imagine that now I'm a little gun-shy about doing it!
>
You put the joint together with with the inner and outer sections
rotated by 1 bearing race or 60 degrees.  The bearing races of the inner
and outer sections for a given ball should cross, not be parallel.

If you look at the top of either inner or outer section, you will see
that the spacing between races alternates between wide and narrow.
The wide space on the outer section should match up with the narrow
spacing on the inner section, and visa versa.  You have this backwards.

One more hint--I assemble CV joints dry and then add the grease later,
making sure to work it into the balls and races.  It's a lot easier that
way--less messy and slippery.

	- Dan
From: jayj@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (Jay Johannes)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Oil pressure warning system - 84 GTI
Date: 24 Sep 92 17:02:53 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO

In rec.autos.vw, andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang) writes:

    On my '84 GTI:

    My oil pressure warning system is being flaky.  On occasion, generally
    after wet cool weather, the buzzer and light come on at 2200 RPM.

    ...

    Has anybody seen this before and know exactly what is flaky?  (Dynamic
    sensor, static sensor, logic circuit or even RPM sensor???.)  Many
    praises if you can help me out.

I had this problem on an 83 GTI.  After replacing all of the sensors,
it turned out that the connector on one of the oil pressure sensors
was not making good contact. A little emory, and a pair of pliers to
tighten the connectors fixed it. It's been working for over three
years now.
'
  We now have 190K miles on the car (original owner), and less than
$1000 in unscheduled maintenance.  Original clutch, rear brakes, etc.
The head has never been off. We maintan the car, but run it fairly
hard, including two seasons on the SCCA National Rally circuit. Given
the comments in this group, I guess quality fell apart in '85, but we
sure don't see it in our car.

  Jay
From: wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Bus axle beam replacement
Date: 5 Oct 1992 17:48:21 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: thor.ins.cwru.edu


Hey now, all!
	Well, the saga of my much maligned '77 bus continues.  This past
week, the pivot for the steering decided to rip right off of the lower
axle beam.  (What is that called?  Steering knuckle?  Steering pivot?) Not
a fun thing to have happen.  I tried to MIG weld the knuckle (I'll call it
a knuckle) back on, but it was so wasted that there wasn't enough metal
left to weld.  Didn't hold at all.  So it looks like I'll be replacing
the axle beam assembly real soon (before selling the bastard!)

	Has anyone out there ever done this?  Anyone have a good source for
used ones?  I know RBI in Auburn Hills has them, but, as usual, their price
seems WAY out of hand.  All my tie rods are fine, in fact every thing is
fine but this steering thing and the left tower between the two beams which
is rotted out kinda bad.  Spindles are fine, brakes are just rebuilt, steering
dampner is fine, shocks are new.  So I'm assuming that I just remove 
everything, unbolt the front end from the frame (I'm assuming it unbolts),
bolt the new one up, replace all the goodies.  Yes?

Thanks!
Bill
-- 
William Claspy			Case Western Reserve University
Internet- wpc@po.cwru.edu
MaBellnet- (216) 368-3595
From: bjgaed@bb1t.monsanto.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: source for 1 3/4" bug radios???
Date: 28 Sep 92 22:31:57 GMT
Organization: Monsanto Company, St. Louis, MO

In article <1992Sep28.165955.5156@parc.xerox.com>, schilit@parc.xerox.com (Bill Schilit) writes:
> I'm trying to find an AM/FM (maybe tape) radio to replace an old AM
> radio in my 73 bug.  However, the height of the old radio is 1 3/4"
> inch and the standard height now seems to be 2".  Does anyone know a
> source for bug compatible radios?
> 
> - Bill

J. C. Whitney offers a number of AM/FM/Cassette units that purport to 
fit in the VW dash opening.  I have no idea as to quality.  The are 
pricier than the usual JCW radios (by $50-$100).  Has anyone bought 
one of these?  Do they actually fit?  Do they actually work?  (Both 
issues with the South Side Sleazeballs of Old Chicago.)  Now that the 
'64 Ghia is a 12 volt I want something like this, too, after I get the 
Visa bill paid off for all the parts and machine shop work. 8{(


--Electric Monk            (Bruce Gaede); 
                            e-mail: bjgaed@ccmail.monsanto.com

"...and then time started seriously to pass."
--Douglas Adams, _Dirk Gently's Holistic Detective Agency_
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: ahmad@Warren.MENTORG.COM (Ahmad)
Subject: VW Service in Central NJ Area
Date: 30 Sep 92 12:00:11
Distribution: all
Organization: Mentor Graphics, Warren NJ


Does any one know of a good VW Mechanic in the New Brunswick,
BridgeWater or Somerville Area ?

Desperate, 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ahmad Deek                          |     Mentor Graphics Corporation
email: ahmad_deek@mentorg.com       |     IC Group
(908) 580-0102  		    |	  15 Independence Blvd
                                    |	  Warren, NJ 07059
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

"If you make $50,000 today, you have the same buying power as the average
coal miner did in 1949, adjusted for taxes and inflation," John Sestina,
nationally recognized Certified Financial Planner;  quoted in 1987.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: jag@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (j.goldberg)
Subject: Re: TIRES: Kelley-Springfields
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 22:23:13 GMT

>In article <92273.164744IA80024@MAINE.MAINE.EDU> Nicholas C. Hester <IA80024@MAINE.MAINE.EDU> writes:
>>
>>I'll be changing my tires in the next couple of months and I was wondering
>>if anyone here had tried Kelleys.   I know some people that have had good
>>luck with them, but I'm not sure how they would work on my car.
>>
>>Thanx for any opinions!!
>
In article <1992Sep30.162504.26533@wuecl.wustl.edu> christos@wucs1.wustl.edu (Christos Papadopoulos) writes:
>
>	My 84 GLI had them when I bought it and I am not at all happy with
>them. Dry traction is ok, but terrible in the wet. 
[ more good stuff trimmed ]
>Christos.

Every time somebody asks for a VW tire recommendation, I send mail.
This time, I'll post.

I have been using Kleber C50's on my '86 Jetta GLI for the past 65K
miles or more, and I have to say I'm REALLY REALLY happy with them.
I have had and hated both Bridgestone all-seasons and Michelin X-GTV's.
Either of those would slide on damp days.

The Klebers are great in the dry, great in the wet (4" of water at
55 MPH, and I didn't lose any traction!), and are even good in small
amounts of snow (I live in NJ now, so snow's not much of a problem.)
When I lived in upstate NY, I had Nokia Hakkepeliitta tires, which go
through any amount of snow like most tires go on dry pavement.

I have only ever seen the Klebers available from EuroTire in NJ
(tel: 201.575.0080), and the Nokias from KT Motorsports around Albany,
NY (tel: 518.765.2206).

I hope this info is of use to some of you!

	jay

Jay Goldberg
UNIX System Laboratories
jay@usl.com

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: kjberte@cray.com (Kurt Bertelsen)
Subject: Re: AUDI 4000 ELECTRICAL PROBLEM
Reply-To: kjberte@cray.com
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 1 Oct 92 11:59:53 CDT

In article 14787@cbnewsi.cb.att.com, gds@cbnewsi.cb.att.com (glenn.d.strouse) writes:
>
>
>I am having a strange electrical problem with my 82' Audi 4000. There seems 
>to be a short between the turn signals and the intermittent wiper position.
>These are on two completely different stalks. My problem is when I sometimes
>turn on the turn signal, the wipers will come on. And the bigger problem is
>when the intermittent wiper does not work, neither will the turn signal. 
>  
>  I am not familiar  with the electrical  system on this car. So any advice 
>would be appreciated.
>
>glenn

I had similar problem with the wipers and the headlights.  The problem
was traced back to the fuse block.  Some to the circuitry shorted
together.   

The solution: replace the fuse block (not cheap but it fixed the problem).



---
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Kurt Bertelsen              I am Connor MacLeod of the Clan MacLeod.
kjberte@cray.com            I was born in 1518 in the village of 
DoD# 0538                     Glenfinnan on the shores of Loch Shere.
86 Miniceptor               And...I am IMMORTAL.   - Highlander
From: james@koko.csustan.edu (Jonas Grumpy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Audi questions
Date: 6 Oct 92 04:16:26 GMT
Organization: CSU Stanislaus

In article <1992Oct06.000627.1511@wes.on.ca> tomh@wes.on.ca (Tom Haapanen) writes:
>carl@neocad.com (Carl Stern) writes:
>> Interesting that while other carmakers, ex. Honda, Volvo, are now
>> embracing 5 cyls, Audi is phasing it out.  
>
>Audi is supplementing the 5-banger and replacing it at the high end because
>it never quite fulfilled the hopes they had for it.  When the engine was 
>introduced back in '76, it was supposed to be as smooth as a six-cylinder
>and yet as fuel-efficient as a four...
>
>Well, as it turns out, a five-cylinder is by design a difficult engine to
>design for smoothness.  The Audi five, while impressive in its Turbo
>Quattro and later S2 and S4 incarnations, was never as smooth as a good
>V6, let alone a match for a BMW straight six.  It's also longer than a 
>four-cylinder, making transverse mounting difficult...


Are you saying that the audi 5 is unbalanced? I know that there are several
kinds of roughness that can come from an engine. The two most notable kind
are from non uniform number of degrees between firings and the other is 
the kind when you have few power pulses from a 3 or four cyl engine like
a 944 3liter. The audi has inline 5 cyls and the same degrees between the 
firing of any two conseq cyls. 2.2 liters divided up by 5 cyls is pretty
smooth. It also has 5 power division where as on a inline 6 has 3. Am I
right or wrong.
-- 
C MYSIG  ASIG4U 1RADSIG 2BADSIG SIG U 2     U R SIG   1SIGDOG    ADOTSIG

Vanity .sigs, now only $35     
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: christos@wucs1.wustl.edu (Christos Papadopoulos)
Subject: Re: ** INFO ON VW CORRADO V6 **
Organization: Washington University, St. Louis MO
Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1992 19:14:55 GMT

>> Have you noticed that switching to defrost causes the air conditioner
>> compressor to kick in?  I suspect it cools (and dehumidifies) the air
>> then heats it up before it gets to the windshield.  Anyone know for sure?
>
>Yes, this has been true of all the A2 cars (since 1985).  The AC kicks in on
                            ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>defrost, supposedly only when the temperature is above 51 degrees
>Fahrenheit.  Seems to me it happens at lower temperatures, too.  It's all in
>the owner's manual, perhaps you'd like to read it sometime.
>
	My 84 GLI (A1 car) does the same thing during defrost. I too have
noticed that the AC turn on regardless of the outside temperature. The
Bentley manual shows an ambient temperature switch near the radiator
that I could never find on my car! Could that be the one controlling
AC operation at low temperatures?

Christos.
From: ferenc@hera.Berkeley.EDU (Ferenc Kovac)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Recommendation Needed for VW Van Purchase
Date: 6 Oct 1992 20:20:38 GMT
Organization: University of California at Berkeley
NNTP-Posting-Host: hera.berkeley.edu
Keywords: Purchase, VW Van Pointers

Hello.
I am interested in purchasing a VW van for commute usage, primarily.
Camping and family outings would be a nice bonus, but I don't think
I need to haul a stove, frig, sink, etc. most of the time.
What I would like is some experienced useful advice on what models/years
to stay away from and also which to seek.
The only other prerequisites are my initial figure of <$10k cost
and high back seats.
A while back, I had access to an older VW camper van and thoroughly enjoyed
its versatility, altough the fronts seats felt like a capmground bed
with protruding springs and straw cushions, it's starter problems,
ugly orange color, nonworking fridge, gas fumes in the cab,
and its snail's pace.  Come to think, what _did_ I like about it?-)
Thanks in advance for useful pointers,
	Ferenc.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw