From: leo@wk69.nas.nasa.gov (Leo Dagum)
Subject: Re: Joining the Crew (finally)
Organization: NAS, NASA Ames Research Center, Moffett Field, CA
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 92 21:00:27 GMT

In article <1992Aug24.173246.2501@nic.csu.net> sgenchi@neptune.uucp (Agent 99) writes:
>I went surfing for the first time last week, and I was wondering if all 
>you 'surf' gurus have any "beginners" pointers for me or stories you
>can remember when you first started surfing.
>
I made (am making?) the transition from boogie-boarding to surfing 
just a few months ago (i.e. I'm no surf guru) but I
certainly can relate some of the things I've learned which for
most experienced surfers is probably instinctive and not really
a lesson.
Here's a list, in no particular order:

1) if you used to boogie board, you'll have the advantage of being able to
read the surf, but you'll have the disadvantage of wanting to start off
big right away.  I recommend very small waves for learning to stand up,
and don't worry about trying to carve the face, just try going
straight even though it'll mean just getting pushed by the whitewater
rather than actually riding the wave.  What you want to learn first is
how to stand up and go straight, so concentrate on that and worry about
actually riding waves later.

2) grip the board by the rails when you stand up.

3) jump up onto your toes (do *not* go onto one knee if you can avoid it,
and if you do instinctively go to one knee, do *not* put the top of your
back foot on the board (like if you had fins on (which you do not))).
The timing on the standing up part is crucial and critical.

4) I just learned this on Sunday, you can use the water for balance!
If you are standing but your balance is off, don't be afraid to reach
out and grab some water for balance, it works!  This is especially useful
if the wave breaks while you're on it (like in a late take off) and there's
a lot of whitewater around.  Don't be afraid of late take offs (on small waves
of course), the wave may break while you're standing up and 
you'll literally "drop" in but you can still stay standing up.

5) cover your head whenever you fall (you're probably already doing this
if you boogie-boarded).  I also really like Nigel's advice, start counting
slowly (you'll be surprised how little time you're actually underwater).
>
>I keep slipping off my board and it is hard for me to duck under the big 
>sets (big to me) when they come and I find myself doing the tumble!!  

Brian Kiviat posted the following on this when I asked essentially the
same question (I got the same advice from Theresa through email):

>>Duck diving on a longboard is different from doing it on a shortboard.
>>When I am riding my 7'0, I generally don't duck dive, I roll over while
>>holding the rails. This forces you down under the wave.  Good luck mon.
>>
>>-Brian

I can't say I've mastered this yet, I have a very old, very heavy board
and on an big waves it's pretty hard to hang onto, and even if I do hang on
I get dragged back a good ways by the wave (and lose whatever distance I
gained paddling out).  Lately what I've been doing is, when there's no one
else near by, start the regular duck diving procedure, but let go of the 
board when I feel myself getting dragged back.  The board will just slip
out underneath me and get taken by the wave, but I'll remain where I am.
So when I come out on the other side I haven't been dragged back as far
and I pull my board in, jump on, and continue paddling out.  It's not pretty
but it works ok.

>
>-Stacie
>sgenchi@calstatela.edu 

Good luck!

- leo