HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: chuq@Apple.COM (Eeyore's Evil Twin)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Maxxum 7xi and zoom lenses
Date: 12 Nov 92 04:08:09 GMT
Organization: Pooh Corner Country Club -- A Planned Community
Chuq:  You write:

the 7xi is a pretty quiet camera, especially compared to my old 5000i
(nicknamed R2D2).

>Text Deleted

If you want power-zoom, you have to have an 'xi' lens, which brings with it
the powered-non-autofocus. If you want TRUE manual focus, then you won't
find a lens that also supports power-zoom (to my knowledge). On the other
hand, I don't particularly find power-zoom to be a significant advantage.


--
            Chuq "IMHO" Von Rospach, ESD Support & Training (DAL/AUX)
                      Member, SFWA =+= Editor, OtherRealms
                chuq@apple.com | GEnie: MAC.BIGOT | ALink:CHUQ



I have the 7xi and love it except for the constant focusing that goes on.  It
drives me crazy!  I'm also using the "i" lenses on it and was wondering if the
same thing occurs using the "xi" lenses.  Or does the focusing occur faster
with less constant adjustment?  Thanks for any info you can provide.

cat

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: nareid@due.unit.no (Helge Nareid)
Subject: Re: Comments on 55mm Takumar for 6x7?
Organization: University of Trondheim, Norway
Distribution: rec
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 92 13:05:06 GMT

In article <LSWAB.92Nov9093300@bmerh953.x400gate.bnr.ca>, lswab@x400gate.bnr.ca (Lyndon Swab) writes:
|> This is related to the recent medium format debate.
|> 
|> Does anyone have any experience with the 55mm f3.5 Takumar for the
|> Pentax 6x7?  This is an old lens - all metal.  From what I can tell,
|> it is now discontinued.  B+H lists a 55mm f4.0, which I assume, is a
|> different beast.  All comments welcome.

I've used both varieties of the 55mm in my time. While the newer f4.0 lens is marginally
better than the f3.5 (slightly better corner sharpness at large apertures), the f3.5 lens
performed quite well for me. The main disadvantage is its 100mm filter size (it is _very_
difficult to get filters for it) and its size. The newer f4.0 lens has a 77mm filter thread.
If you can get the 55mm f3.5 at a good price, I'd recommend it.
 
|> While we're at it, how about the 90mm leaf shutter lense, which is
|> also discontinued?  How does it compare with the new equivalent (the
|> new one doesn't have the leaf shutter).  IMHO, 90mm isn't long enough
|> for portrait work, and thus, I wouldn't need the leaf shutter.
|> (Besides, I don't do portrait work).

Never used any of the 90 mm lenses, my other lens is a 150mm f2.8 (which has been superseded
by the 165mm f2.8). This lens is decidedly soft at max aperture, but it is a fairly good lens
otherwise. For portraits, I'd recommend the 135, 150 or 165 mm lenses.

|> Thanks,
You're welcom
|> --
|> Lyndon Swab     lswab@bnr.ca, (613) 763-7165, ESN 393-7165

Helge Nareid  -  nareid@tele.unit.no
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: mwandel@bnr.ca (Markus Wandel)
Subject: Re: Stained Negatives?
Organization: bnr
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 20:35:36 GMT

In article <1992Nov9.192532.9093@odin.corp.sgi.com> donl@glass.esd.sgi.com (donl mathis) writes:
>
>In article <1992Nov9.154820.29694@bcrka451.bnr.ca>, poole@bnr.ca (Thomas
>Poole) writes:
>
>|> Can anyone tell me what these stains are?
>|> 
>|> I used Ilford 400 Delta 35mm film, developed for 8 min in Ilford
>|> developer, 30 seconds in the stop bath (instructions called
>|> for 10 seconds) and 1 minute in the Ilford Paper Fixer (guy
>|> at the store said Paper fixer would work fine for film).
>
>Don't scrimp on fixing!  I don't know if the dilution of Ilford's paper
>fixer is different than for film ...

It's probably Ilfospeed paper fixer, used at 1+3 dilution for both paper and
film.  The book suggests fixing the film for 2-4 minutes.  I use this film
and fixer and always go for 4 minutes with agitation at 1 minute intervals
and I've never had any stain problems.

Markus Wandel
markus@pinetree.org <-- NOT the source of this posting
From: elau@berlioz.nsc.com (Eugene Lau)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Canon EOS 20-35 lenses?
Date: 9 Nov 92 17:50:47 GMT
Organization: National Semiconductor Corporation

daveb@hpgrla.gr.hp.com (Dave Boyd) writes:

>     In several mail order ads (Cambridge was one of them) I've seen two
>different 20-35 zoom lenses for Canon EOS cameras.  There's a 20-35 2.8L
>that sells for about $1000, and a 20-35 3.5 that sells for about $300.

the 20-35 f/3.5 is probably the sigma lens, which sells for about $300.
tokina's is about $50 more.  if canon were to make a 20-35 f/3.5
it would cost much more than $300.

they might have advertised it as lenses for EOS but are not necessarily
canon's lenses.  in fact, in the case of cambridge, it might even be their
own brand.  $300 for a sigma 21-35 (it's not 20-35, by the way) is not bad.
stay realistic and you won't get ripped off.

eugene
From: smecker@ap1seq.us.oracle.com (Satyajit Singh Mecker)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Flashing "ISO" in Elan
Date: 10 Nov 92 21:30:18 GMT
Organization: Oracle Corp., Redwood Shores CA
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by an unauthenticated user
              at Oracle Corporation.  The opinions expressed are those
              of the user and not necessarily those of Oracle.

Funny....I had a similar problem when loading DX coded Kodak Tri-X Pan (b&w).   The camera
had set the speed correctly to ASA 125 when I checked, yet the indicator kept on flashing.
I decided to go ahead anyway and the photos came out great ! 

I presumed some scratch marks on the DX code confused the code reader.

- Singh
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: yz3k@galen.med.virginia.edu
Subject: Re: Flashing "ISO" in Elan
Organization: University of Virginia
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1992 02:04:47 GMT

In article <6678@ucsbcsl.ucsb.edu> 6500rick@ucsbuxa.ucsb.edu (Richard J.  
Bessey) writes:
> 
> Well, I posted once, but I don't know if it is going to show up.
> 
> The bottom line is I got this same message the other day and was 
> surprised.  Even though the speed was set manually it continued to
> flash.  But the pictures turned out fine.  No problem.
> 
> Maybe it is like that mysterious beep that you read about in the 
> manual, the one you can turn off and on, but which really doesn't
> exist.
 The beep exist all right, at least the equipment for it. Notice the self timer  
beeper will work! I guess it is a program with the electronic programming. It  
is the samne thing with the flash, it can pop up but because of patent problems  
the US version won't pop up by itself. There is a way to make it pop up by  
itself though. 
--yz
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: rfrench@Xenon.Stanford.EDU (Robert S. French)
Subject: Photo Schools
Organization: Computer Science Department, Stanford University.
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 01:11:51 GMT

Has anyone out there had any experience with the various photo
schools?  I'm especially interested in the Nikon School (one day
seminar that travels around the country, $75) and the NYI School
(correspondence course for 6mo-1yr, ~$800).  I'm not interested in
full-time live-in schools.  Is there any correspondence course better
than NYI?  I'm a serious amateur interested in taking better pictures,
but have no intention of opening a studio.

		Rob
From: robert@sys.sweden.dg.com (Robert Claeson)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Velvia: first impressions
Date: 10 Nov 92 09:14:53 GMT
Organization: Data General AB, Akalla, Sweden

In article <AFORSTEN.92Nov2164344@aton.abo.fi>, aforsten@aton.abo.fi (Annika Forsten INF) writes:
> In article <1992Oct30.095315.13348@sys.sweden.dg.com> robert@sys.sweden.dg.com (Robert Claeson) writes:
> 

> >   Correct; Velvia is very contrasty. However, this doesn't mean that Velvia
> >   has a narrower contrast range than other films. It doesn't. It has a maximum
> >   density that's significantly higher than most other films on the market.
> >   However, you need lots of light to really get everything out of a Velvia
> >   slide.

> So is Velvia less contrasty than KR64? What do you mean with 'lots of light'?
> Overexposion?

Velvia is less contrasty than KR64, in my opinion. With "lots of light", I
mean that when Velvia is exposed for EI 50, more light is needed when
*viewing* a Velvia slide than when viewing other slides. If Velvia is exposed
for EI 40 or 32, it becomes lighter, as one would expect, and will have
correspondingly better shadow detail rendition -- better than most other
slide films, in fact.

- Robert

-- 
------------------------------ END OF MESSAGE ------------------------------
Robert Claeson                Internet: robert@sys.sweden.dg.com
Data General AB                         robert@sys.dg.se
Box 28                             CEO: robert@sys.sweden.dg.com:dg-smtp
S-164 93 KISTA                     Tel: +46 (0)8-92 55 00
Sweden                             Fax: +46 (0)8-751 36 22
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: pdn@fc.hp.com (Paul Nuber)
Subject: Re: Questions for Pros
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 17:49:45 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Fort Collins Site
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.8 PL6]

Raland Camara (ralandc@tara.SanDiego.NCR.COM) wrote:

:      I am presently looking into starting a business as a professional 
: photographer.
 
: -  What are some of the professional organizations for photograhers?
PPA - Professional Photographers of America
ASMP - American Society of Magazine Photographers
 
: -  What conferences/trade shows exist for professional photographers?
PPA national convention,
Photo East, Photo West, Photo Midwest,
there is also one in Washington DC, sponsored by Photo Pro

:    Are there any formal schools which are well known for 
:    there quality instruction?
Winona in Chicago, run by PPA

:    How do you go about furthering 
:    your knowledge? 
I study ads in magazines

: -  Do you have any general advice in regards to starting a photography 
:    business?
You need to figure out what records you need to keep for tax purposes.
 
: -  Do you have any recommendations for building/enhancing one's portfolio?
Take lots of pictures.

: -  Is there anything which I have left out which might be useful to add?
Professional magazines you might want to read:
Photo District News - business news
PhotoPro - wide range of topics, my favorite magazine
Professional Photographer - targetted at the wedding & portrait business

Paul Nuber
pdn@fc.hp.com
Hewlett-Packard Co.
Fort Collins, CO
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: milica@runx.oz.au (Milan Durovic)
Subject: slow sync and red eye on Canon EOS 100 (Elan)
Organization: RUNX Un*x Timeshare.  Sydney, Australia.
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 92 09:29:44 GMT


Dear netters,

I have recently acquired a Canon EOS 100 (Elan in USA) and gone to Halloween
party in Wonderland to take some nice night photos. I have only a built-in
flash. I wanted to combine flash with longer exposures to include more of 
an attractive background. Unfortunately, I have found out that I have to make
the following choice:

- turn the command dial in the manual mode, pop-up the flash manually, set the
  longer exposure and take the picure. Slow-sync works fine, and the
  foreground and background have a good light balance. If you have people in
  the scene, they'll all have beautiful red eyes, which may suit only
  Halloween.

- turn the command dial in the programmed picture modes. Now I am able to 
  turn on the red-eye reduction lamp (which was impossible in the previous
  case) and have the exposure fixed to either 1/60 or 1/125, meaning bye-bye
  to the attractive background.

When I came home, I checked the manual. Nothing in there says that it is
impossible to turn on the red-eye reduction lamp in creative modes. Does
anyone know how can I do that? I haven't contacted Canon yet. I hope someone
will come up with an answer.


Regards,

Milan

milica@runx.oz.au
From: daveb@hpgrla.gr.hp.com (Dave Boyd)
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 21:23:51 GMT
Subject: Canon EOS 20-35 lenses?
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Greeley, CO
Newsgroups: rec.photo


     I'm pretty sure this was discussed not too long ago, but I've only
recently become interested in this lens, and the discussion is gone from
our system.

     In several mail order ads (Cambridge was one of them) I've seen two
different 20-35 zoom lenses for Canon EOS cameras.  There's a 20-35 2.8L
that sells for about $1000, and a 20-35 3.5 that sells for about $300.

     Wanting to buy locally if I can, I called the best camera store in the
area, and they only know about the 20-35 2.8L, which is more lens than
I want to afford or really need.

     What gives?  Could the mail order places have listed an off-brand lens
along with the Canon lenses? (I know Sigma makes a similar lens, and I believe
Tokina does.)  Is the 20-35 3.5 brand new so the local retailer hasn't heard
of it yet?  I'd appreciate any information anyone might have about these
lenses.

     Thanks for your help!

     Dave Boyd
     Hewlett-Packard, Greeley Colorado
     Standard Disclaimers Apply

P.S.  This is my first posting to this group, but I've been reading it for
a few months.  rec.photo is by far the most informative and civil group
I've found on any topic.  As a fairly new photography buff, I've learned a
lot.  Thanks!
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: arif@ccrl.nj.nec.com (Arif Merchant)
Subject: Flashing "ISO" in Elan
Reply-To: arif@ccrl.nj.nec.com (Arif Merchant)
Organization: NEC Research Institute
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 92 19:52:28 GMT

I recently tried setting the ISO manually on my Elan (using non-DX
coded film). Following the manual, I turned the dial to ISO, set it,
and turned the dial back to the "Green" mode. However, the "ISO" in
the LCD display keeps blinking. Does this indicate a problem? Any
information would be appreciated.

 Arif

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond)
Subject: Re: Incredible blue sky
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 92 18:25:24 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.


>For those of you who read Popular Photography, look in the newest issue
>at the Kodak Ektar awards.  There is a beautiful picture of some hot-air
>balloons rising over a lake.  Notice the blue sky.
>
>My question is, how in the world did the photographer get the sky to be that
>dark, yet the balloons to be so bright?  I would guess the photographer wasn't
>using a ND grad filter because the balloons aren't darkened.  I've also heard
>that a polarizing filter helps darken the sky, but I havn't ever acheived 
>that startling of a result.
>
>Any insights would be greatly appreciated.


I'd guess about 10 minutes on a Scitek color editing station, a Mac and
Adobe photoshop or maybe even a PC and any of a number of photo editing
packages.  Darkening that sky would be as simple as lasso'ing the 
blue sky region and darkening to taste.  With electronic image manipulation
being what it is, it makes little sense anymore for publications to
strive to get it just right on film.

John

-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC               |Interested in high performance mobility?  
Performance Engineering Magazine (TM) |
Marietta, Ga                         |Interested in high tech and computers? 
jgd@dixie.com                        |Write me about PE Magazine
Need Usenet public Access in Atlanta?  Write Me for info on Dixie.com.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: feldman@hal9k.cxo.dec.com (james feldman)
Subject: Re: Reliable Strobe System (Speedotron,DynaLite, etc) ?
Reply-To: feldman@hal9k.cxo.dec.com (james feldman)
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 20:44:00 GMT

In article <1dp4s0INN1vo@sixgun.East.Sun.COM>, marc@.East.Sun.COM (Marc Thompson-Sun-Vienna VA-Systems Engineer) writes:

|>3. Could anyone comment on the pros and cons of purchasing the strobe
|>systems above,
|>   or other systems you found to be reliable and worth considering.
Understand that I don't don't own any of the above, but am looking to.  One of
the things you will probably also be looking at is a softbox of some kind. 
Almost all of them will require "speed rings" for mounting and these are made
for each type of strobe head, so be sure that whatever you decide on is common
enough to have the rings made for it.  The Ultra's can be adapted to use the
Balcar mounts.  Some of the advantages of the Ultras are visual recycle
indication, low current draw vs. output and being able to control the head
remotely just like a cabled system (without the cable losses).  The last is
nice if you happen to have the head buried inside a light modifier of some
kind.  If you haven't figured it out, I'm pretty sold on the Ultra's, but can't
justify the cash outlay for a 1200 and a couple of 600's at this time.  If you
were just going to do tight head shots, you could probably get away with a
fairly low power system, since you could move the lights in close.  In the end,
softboxes, umbrellas and of course distance, all "eat" lighting power.  Heck,
you could always go with a HMI system, they're ONLY going for about $5/watt, so
I've read.  ;'{)}
--
Jim Feldman                         || This space for lease, contact your
Digital Equipment Corp              || Digital Sales Rep.
CSC/Colorado Springs                || 

My opinions are my own and in no way reflect Digital's POV (unless they're
charging somebody for me to give them).
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: tjwu@athena.mit.edu (Thomas J Wu)
Subject: Re: Flashing "ISO" in Elan
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 01:36:23 GMT

In article <1992Nov9.195228.10168@research.nj.nec.com> arif@ccrl.nj.nec.com (Arif Merchant) writes:
>
>  I recently tried setting the ISO manually on my Elan (using non-DX
>  coded film). Following the manual, I turned the dial to ISO, set it,
>  and turned the dial back to the "Green" mode. However, the "ISO" in
>  the LCD display keeps blinking. Does this indicate a problem? Any
>  information would be appreciated.

My Elan does the same thing, so I assume that nothing is wrong.  It's just
an indicator to remind you that the film cartridge is not DX-coded.

>   Arif

Thomas Wu
Internet:  tjwu@athena.mit.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: rao@ccu.umanitoba.ca (Govindaraju Rao)
Subject: Re: photomanipulation
Organization: University of Manitoba, Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 04:46:04 GMT


> | I am looking for specific examples of photographs that have been
> | manipulated and used as a picture of reality.
> 
> 				-Heather
> 
   Shortly after Lee Oswald was arrested for the alleged killing of
   President J.F. Kennedy, the cover photograph on an issue of LIFE 
   magazine showed a full length photo of Oswald holding a rifle in
   his right hand and some pamphlets (alleged communist literature)
   in his left hand. 
  
   In the recent movie JFK (by Oliver Stone), one of the investigating
   officers from the District Attorney's Office shows how the photo
   is a fake. There were small shadows under Oswald's eyes and the
   bridge of his nose, implying the photo was taken at about high
   noon. And yet his body casts a very long shadow on the ground
   implying an early-morning or late-evening shot.
  
   Two different photos cut-and-paste into one !!!  
-- 
G.S.K. Rao <rao@ccm.umanitoba.ca> <rao@ccu.umanitoba.ca>
 
GRAD STUDENT'S GRACE:  Please God !! If it MUST crash .... not when
                       *I* am using it !!
From: bu890@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Brian Segal)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Cullman Tripods
Date: 5 Nov 92 15:26:41 GMT
Article-I.D.: usenet.1dbefhINNrlh
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


I use a Cullman Titan CT-400 Tripod with my Sinar P2 and it is solid
and reliable.....but kinda heavy for hiking :-)


brian ###
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: bongers@gto400.asd.sgi.com (Hans L. Bongers)
Subject: Portrait Lenses (was: Comments on 55mm Takumar for 6x7?)
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc., Mountain View, CA, USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 20:51:25 GMT

In article <LSWAB.92Nov9093300@bmerh953.x400gate.bnr.ca>, lswab@x400gate.bnr.ca (Lyndon Swab) writes:
|> This is related to the recent medium format debate.
|> 
|> Does anyone have any experience with the 55mm f3.5 Takumar for the
|> Pentax 6x7?  This is an old lens - all metal.  From what I can tell,
|> it is now discontinued.  B+H lists a 55mm f4.0, which I assume, is a
|> different beast.  All comments welcome.
|> 
|> While we're at it, how about the 90mm leaf shutter lense, which is
|> also discontinued?  How does it compare with the new equivalent (the
|> new one doesn't have the leaf shutter).  IMHO, 90mm isn't long enough
|> for portrait work, and thus, I wouldn't need the leaf shutter.
|> (Besides, I don't do portrait work).
|> 
|> Thanks,
|> --
|> Lyndon Swab     lswab@bnr.ca, (613) 763-7165, ESN 393-7165


Lyndon ---

I have taken excellent portraits with everything from 500mm (mirror) all
the way down to a 16mm fisheye (portrait of a very funny guy with a LARGE
nose).  The front objective was about 1/2 inch from his nose.

One should not limit oneself to "predefined standards" when it comes to any
specific branch of photography.  Creativity is the key to originality.

--- hans
From: honna@cs.concordia.ca (SEGEL honna)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: fill flash on EOS 630
Date: 9 Nov 92 20:17:27 GMT
Organization: Computer Science, Concordia University, Montreal, Quebec

In article <LSWAB.92Oct29084129@bmerh953.x400gate.bnr.ca> lswab@x400gate.bnr.ca (Lyndon Swab) writes:
>>>>>> "nuscss1" == Vax BULLET-IN-Board SysOps <nuscss1@vms1.iscs.nus.sg> writes:
>
>>If you want some other balance,
>>you'll have to do it under manual control.
>
>  nuscss1> 	assuming I do it under manual control, what do I hafta do ?
>
>  nuscss1> 	thanx again...
>
>It's actually not too hard.  Use Av, Tv, or P mode to determine the
>correct exposure.  Then set the camera to Manual, and set the same
>aperature and shutter.  i.e. The ambient exposure is "correct".  Now
>the exposure compensation on the camera will control the amount of
>fill flash.  Set it to -1, and voila, the ambient light is correct,
>and the flash is underexposed by one stop.
It may not be as simple as that.  Depending on the absolute level of 
ambient light, the focal length of the lens, and the ISO set on the 
camera the 630 will determine just how to give/take that (stop of) 
exposure compensation.  You might have the shutter speed change; it 
might be the aperture.  What is important is that the aperture is
*mostly* relevant to the flash-light and, once the f/ is set, the 
shutter speed relates to the ambient-light. A simpler approach: 
meter and set the camera in manual for correct exposure for ambient
light; adjust the shutter down and the aperture up tit-for-tat-wise
until the aperture selected would/will underexpose the subject one step
*iff* only the flash-light were available for the exposure.

Michael
-- 
***************************************************************
honna segel
department of computer science
concordia university  *****************************************
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: hamm@weejordy.physics.mun.ca (Craig Hamm)
Subject: Re: Stock Photography (was Re: Questions for Pros)
Organization: Ocean Sciences Centre
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 16:40:27 GMT

	A Canadian photo magazine, 'Photo Life', has recently started a regular
	column on stock photography, written by one of the owners of
	'First Light' Stock agency in Toronto.  First Light is a fairly big
	and well known entity in Canada.  I'm not sure of their exposure
	south of the border (pardon the pun).  It is a 2 page column roughly
	and dicusses what wil sell, and what won't.  They talk about current
	trends atec.  It is a very good intro into the world of stock.


-- 
  Craig Hamm, Memorial University, | I'm a spud man, I've got eyes all around.
  Newfoundland,              ______| De-evolution, execution, no solution.
  DoD #1500,                / 
  1981 Maxim 650            | 
  __________________________|
From: jmb5b@faraday.clas.Virginia.EDU (John M. Bozeman)
Subject:  Canonet GIII QL17 vs Minolta Himatic?
Organization: University of Virginia
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 04:36:57 GMT

i

I have read praise for the Canonet GIII QL 17 and the Yashica GSN.
What about the Minolta Himatic S?  Is this as good as the other two?
I know that is has a 45mm 1.8 lens, and I think that it has a range finder.

          Thanks,

              John
Newsgroups: rec.photo