HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: ron@topaz.bds.com (Ron Natalie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Shop for Boat Building
Date: 26 Sep 1992 14:36:33 GMT
Organization: BDS Systems
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: topaz.bds.com

>    Is anyone out there interested in building wooden boats from kits or
> otherwise? I hope there is a spark out there and some help for me in
> getting the right tools at reasonable prices----- Thanks for any information
> you can send me.

I take it you've already heard of "Wooden Boats" magazine (they also have
a plan catalog).

-Ron

Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 29 Sep 1992 20:53:50 EDT
From:         FABY000 <FABY@NMUMUS.BITNET>
Subject:      Makita saws

I owned a Makita 8.5 inch saw and it worked well until I began making
furniture using hardwoods such as oak, maple and cherry.  I moved up to
the Delta contractor's saw.  However, the Makita worked well and being
portable has advantages.  Before purchasing the Makita or any other
small saw give consideration to whether you will soon need a larger saw.
Incidently, I broke a part of the guard and it cots over $60 for a
replacement piece.  Now I am very careful about buying Japanese tools
because of the high cost of parts.  Roger Barry
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: Table saws...and rust
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 18:09:16 GMT

John Wack writes
>...  I have the (much aligned) Delta 10" Motorized saw,
                       ^^^^^^^
A humorous typo - I assume that you don't mean that you've had to
align your saw frequently but that this model of saw has been much 
maligned on this newsgroup. ;^)


> but this saw has, I believe, the same
> cast iron top as the Contractors.

Note quite. The Contractor's main table is 20" x 27", the Motorized's
main table is smaller at 20.375" x 22.25". The Contractor's now has T 
slots for the miter gauge, the Motorized has plain slots.

The XL-10's table is the same size as yours, but also has T slots
for the miter gauge. It's about $40 more mail order, but you also
get a 1 HP induction motor instead of a 15 amp universal motor.


- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
"And remember this - there's no more important safety rule than to wear
these: safety glasses."

PS: All dimensions, specs, and descriptions are from the 1992 TOS catalog,
    except for the Contractor's having T slots, which I saw at a Home
    Depot store recently. I don't own a Delta table saw.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: M21605@mwvm.mitre.org
Subject: Re: Lathe sanding - avoiding sanding rings
Organization: The MITRE Corporation, McLean VA 22102
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 19:27:36 GMT

In article <1992Sep28.143424.1682@nntpd.lkg.dec.com>
taylor@dominy.enet.dec.com (Bruce J. Taylor) writes:
 
>
>
>In article <1992Sep28.121915.17741@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU>, psv2b@poe.acc.Virginia.EDU (Peter S. Vines) writes...
>>I've completed a couple of projects on a wood lathe; candle stands, lamps,
>>etc... It's always quite difficult to eliminate or avoid rings around the
>>object after sanding.  I use various grits, pressure, and speeds.
>>Are there tricks that I'm missing, or will I always have to manually sand
>>the piece with the grain after I'm done with the lathe?
>>Any and all tips are appreciated...
>>
>
>Well, there are four techniques that work for me:
>
>1. keep your tools sharp enough, and most woods won't need sanding.
>   (Yeah, I know, this is motherhood and apple pie. I always need to
>    sand, but its usually just touch-up.)
>
>2. On bowls, plates, and long smooth sections of spindles you can use a
>   random-orbit sander while the piece is revolving. This calls for a
>   delicate touch, but it works like magic. Some folks use disk sanders,
>   especially down inside closed vessels, but they always cause me more
>   trouble than they're worth.
>
>3. Use emory cloth, rather than sandpaper. Don't know why this should be
>   so, but it always works a lot better for me. Lasts longer, too.
>
>4. Admit that you're not gonna get rid of all the marks, and incorporate
>   them into your design.
>
>
>                                - bruce
 
I wet my emory paper with linseed oil and it works like a dream.  Also avoids
creating dust.  I'm sure this would work with other oils if need be.  I also
use pumice and rottenstone for applying a polish after the finish has been
applied to the work.  Again, I use the oil as a lubricant.  It makes sense,
since wet or dry paper always seems to work better wet, thanks to the viscous
effect.
From: geoff@strobe.ATC.Olivetti.Com (Geoff Caras)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Delta table saw for sale...
Keywords: saw table delta
Date: 30 Sep 92 19:58:46 GMT
Distribution: ca

For Sale:

Delta Tilting Arbor Saw with 52" Unifence.

The tilting arbor saw looks similar to the contractor's saw except
the entire table surface and wings are cast iron (HEAVY!). It has the
curved legs. The bottom of the saw is open like the contractors...

It has a 1.5 horse motor and is wired for 220; it would be easy
to put a larger motor on it as the motor is on a swinging mount. Although
I have not had any problems with the power output. (I think the motor
is a rockwell)

The unifence replaces the right hand wing of the table and extends out
for 55" from the blade.

I had a mobile base custom made for it by HTC (I think thats thier name)
it has a very low profile and is reasonably manueverable (sp?) the two
wheels under the saw itself have screw locks on them.

I really love the accuracy, and the dependability of the saw but I 
don't use it as much as I used to and I need the space!

I live in Santa Cruz, CA. The saw is heavy, so I don't want to box it
for shipping etc...

If the price is right I will throw in the blade that is on it now, an
80 tooth carbide blade (very, very smooth)

Oh yeah, I was the original purchaser....

$1100.00 or best offer.


Call:	Geoff Caras
	408.475.8194
FAX:	408.475.8193

voice mail: 408.366.3178
email:	    igneous@netcom.com

igneous@netcom.com         voice - 408.475.8194              FAX - 408.475.8193
The Igneous Group          Software Project Management   Design   Documentation
                           1744 Foster Court     Santa Cruz, CA      95062-1741
From: finkel@sdi.com (Joel Finkel - SDI)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Window glazing
Date: 6 Oct 92 09:21:27 CDT
Organization: Systems by Design of Illinois (SDI), Chicago

In article <3857@ecicrl.ocunix.on.ca>, clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Christopher Lewis) writes:
> In article <4607@moscom.com> de@moscom.com (David Esan) writes:
>>In article <WOODWORK%92100213455001@IPFWVM.BITNET> ALEX@NKI.BITNET (Bill Alexander) writes:
>>>I watched a profession glazier (?) working this summer. His trick was dipping
>>>his hands into kerosene before handling the putty. It both made it more
>>>workable and kept it from sticking to his hands.
> 

	 Let's face it, if you're going to properly glaze a window,
	 you're gonna get putty on your hands.  When you're done, you
	 can use the putty knife to scrape most of the putty off your
	 hands and the rest will come off with hot water & Lava soap.

	 Even people who work in sash factories (and who glaze with
	 ONE hand, if you can believe that!), get putty on their
	 hands.

	 It's no big deal and it's fun.  Go for it.

-- 
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
		     vote for RON DANIELS for president
  Joel R. Finkel   Systems by Design of Illinois (SDI) 	 finkel@sdi.com
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bds@mbunix.mitre.org (Smith)
Subject: Re: Delta 12" Planer
Summary: Alternatives to the Delta 12" planer
Organization: The MITRE Corporation, Bedford, MA
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 16:27:34 GMT


If you want to spend a little extra, I noticed that Trendlines is now
carrying the RBI molder/planer for $799.  You can also get it from RBI
directly.  This is an American-made unit that can also make moldings.
It's all steel and cast iron.  The same basic unit has been sold for
about 20 years, so it should be relatively bug free.

If you want to spend even more, you should look at the Delta 13" unit
(about $1100).  

If you could live with 7 inch wide blades (the open-sided design
allows up to 14 inch wide wood), look at the Williams & Hussey W7S
(about $1500 with 20A motor and stand).  The W&H is a unit that will
last forever under hard use (I have one that was built in 1955 and is
as good as the day it was built), will cut moldings (both straight and
curved, up to 7" wide and 3/4" deep cuts) and raised panels, and
through a very simple system, allows foolproof blade changing in about
1 minute.

Also for about $1600 you can get the Inca planer/jointer, which has a
10.5" capacity and both planes and joints.  The Inca has a wonderful
blade holding system that allows blade changing in a minute or less.

In the same price range is the 12" Woodmaster planer/molder, which
planes, molds, rips and sands.  Woodmaster also sells the same units
with 18" and 25" capacities.

By the way, these units are considered inexpensive by most industrial
standards.  True high-end machines for small shops can be $2500 or
more.  For what it's worth, I think the units that sell for $300-$400
are great values if you never have to plane a lot of wood or have to
take off much more than 1/32" at a time.  Since this encompasses the
needs of most hobbyists, they should be looked at very seriously.
However, I don't think any of them will last as well as the $1000+
machines.  As they say, you get what you pay for.

Barry

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Delta table saw for sale...
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: ca
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 92 13:34:07 GMT

In article <1992Oct2.224026.27987@adobe.com> bennett@adobe.com writes:
>Geoff Caras writes
>> In article <1992Sep30.232647.25412@adobe.com>, bennett@adobe.com (Bennett  
>Leeds) writes:

<discussion about relative merits of equipment for sale deleted>

>Oh George, it's you that doesn't get it. I have nothing against you or

That was "Geoff", Bennett.

Outside of that, I, for one, appreciate pertinent information such as
that you provided. Were I in the market, that would have saved me a
lot of catalogue checking.

patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | If you have a tank which can move and communicate,
George Patterson -  |   but which cannot shoot, essentially what you have
                    |   is a sixty-five ton portable radio.
                    |                Fort Bragg School of Armour
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: ron@topaz.bds.com (Ron Natalie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How do I bend an oak 4x4?
Date: 2 Oct 1992 16:37:41 GMT
Organization: BDS Systems
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: topaz.bds.com

> I am kind of worried about bending an oak 4x4. Is this something I can
> do at home or is it best left to "trained professionals"?  How much 
> force is it going to take to bend this sucker?

If I was doing it (especially if I needed prescision in the bend dimensions),
I'd slice it into thinner pieces and reglue them over a form.  All this takes
really is a lot of clamps (fortunately, I've got a lot left over from someone
who laminated is own autogyro rotors).

> Now that I have this curved octagonal beam, how do I make it round? I've
>  seen a 2" roundover bit for a router and I don't have a shaper.
> I'm not very good at wielding sharp tools freehand so I would like
> something requiring less dexterity than a spokeshave.

If you can use a spokeshave (or can cut a few more corners off before you
start), try making a scraper that's the right shape.  Get an old drywall knife/
paint scraper (typically you've got one siting around anyhow that's not really any good for drywall work anymore).  Draw a 2" radius arc on it (no more than
180 degrees!) and cut out and file it to shape.

-Ron

for actually doing anything)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Plans for drafting table
From: hosken@spss.com (Bill Hosken)
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 14:14:20 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: SPSS, Inc.

In article <1992Oct1.055849.18340@jpl-devvax.jpl.nasa.gov>, joes@jpl-devvax.jpl.nasa.gov (Joseph Stoltzfus) writes:
> Tage Frid's Book 3: Furniture Making has a plan. It's fairly
> simple, won't take you 100 years to make and has useful storage.
> 
> Joe Sz.
> 

I built this table from the plans in the book and am pleased with
the result.  I used more drawers than sliding trays though.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mjoseph@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu (Mark Joseph)
Subject: Old Craftsman Table Saw
Summary: questions
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 17:15:38 GMT

I just bought an old (~1967) Craftsman "100" Table saw from my
neighbor.   Specifically it's a model 113.29992.  I believe it
was intended to be a 7" saw, but the previous owner has been running
a 10" blade on it.  It's really in pretty good shape, and seems to
run well.  I'm pretty sure I didn't get hurt by paying $85 for it.

Anyway, I'm looking for an operator's manual and parts list.  It seems
that Sears still lists parts for it, but although they list the manual
as well, it's no longer available.  I'm also interested in suggestions
for a blade guard and anti-kickback device.  It currently has neither.
(I've got a major scar to remind me just how severe table saw accidents
can be.)

Any clues regarding documentation or alternate sources for parts?  
If anyone has a copy of the manual and parts list, I'd sure 
appreciate a copy.

Comments and suggestions are welcome.  Please email - I haven't
been keeping up with rec.woodworking very well. Thanks.

Mark

-- 
Mark Joseph             University of Illinois / Speech & Hearing Science
Technical Support Mgr.  901 S. Sixth St., Champaign, IL 61820
m-joseph@uiuc.edu       (217)244-2569   FAX:(217)244-2235
From: de@moscom.com (David Esan)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Window glazing
Date: 5 Oct 92 15:45:51 GMT
Organization: Moscom Corp., Pittsford NY

In article <WOODWORK%92100213455001@IPFWVM.BITNET> ALEX@NKI.BITNET (Bill Alexander) writes:
>I watched a profession glazier (?) working this summer. His trick was dipping
>his hands into kerosene before handling the putty. It both made it more
>workable and kept it from sticking to his hands.

Hmm.  Real healthy.  I believe kerosene is a carcinogen.

-- 
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 -->     David Esan      de@moscom.com  
 
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Woodpeckers
From: carvalho@tribiet.maintech.com (joe carvalho)
Date: Thu, 01 Oct 92 09:40:38 PDT
Organization: Tribiet: A city much like hell.

I've always found that a few gay termites will always discourage a 
woodpecker. :) FLAMES TO /dev/null...

All joking aside. A plastic owl works well.

ThanX.

Joe Carvalho
Beacher Tool & Die...A Hughe Jorgen Company
1106 2nd Street, Suite 316
Encinitas, CA. 92024

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: dubin@spot.Colorado.EDU (DUBIN MARK W)
Subject: Re: Woodworkers Alliance for Rainforest Protection (WARP)
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1992 16:17:31 GMT

rick@thinker.thinker.com (Rick Yazwinski) writes:

>Has anyone heard of this group?  From what I understand from a small
 (etc....)

I have belonged from the start.  They publish a very informative
newsletter.  Membership includes some very well know practitioners
of the woodworking art (not a descritpion of me (:-) ) who seem
to be very active in promoting "good wood".  Membership is only
$25/year as I recall and I believe it to be very worthwhile.

--the ol' professor

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: doug@DSG.Tandem.COM (Doug Bering)
Subject: Re: How do I bend an oak 4x4?
Organization: Tandem Computers Inc., Cupertino CA
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 19:40:55 GMT

I also agree with laminating instead of bending.  As far as rounding
goes, a 4" x 24" sanding belt, cut at the glue joint and with small 
blocks of wood mounted as "handles" makes a fine tool for rounding off
large work.  I recently did this with a 21' tapered wooden mast for a
small sailboat.  Long trapezoidal pieces were laid up and glued, the
corners knocked off with a small plane and spokeshave and then a fair
amount of "shoe-shine action" to get the final shape.  I found that
mounting the work quite high and working from underneath it had the
advantage that gravity was working for you on sanding pressure.  Of
course, then you have to worry about all that sawdust that falls on
you as result.  Shoulder high seemed to work pretty good.
                                                           Doug B.
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 2 Oct 1992 20:36:10 EST
From:         FABY000 <FABY@NMUMUS.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Table saws...and rust

A alternative for rust control is a block of camphor available from a
pharmacy or some woodworker's supply companies.  Keep the block on the
saw table and keep a cover over the saw when it is not being used.  I
have not personally used this system but have talked to people who have
and apparently it works.  Some people keep a piece in their tool box
too.  Roger Barry
From: rhaar@albert.cs.gmr.com (Bob Haar)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: removing cutters and collets
Date: 29 Sep 92 18:17:50 GMT
Article-I.D.: rphroy.90923
Reply-To: rhaar@albert.cs.gmr.com
Organization: G.M. Research Labs

In article D01D5440@BAEPV3.NCSU.EDU, thomas@BAEPV3.NCSU.EDU writes:
|>
|>Here's a recurring problem I've had many times, and have never really
|>solved:
|>
|>After using my router, usually for an extended time, I have a very
|>difficult time removing the cutter and collet.  
|>
....
|>BTW, my router is a PC 690, and sees its most use is a router table.
|>

I have experienced this same problem is several different routers, but 
it was most pronounced in an old Sears 1/4" collet unit.

There isn't much I can suggest to do after the fact, but preventative
measures do help. Most important is to keep the collet and
the bit's shank clean. They tend to pick up pitch, particularly
if you are working woods like pine. So I clean the shanks and the
collet with steel wool or emery cloth. Second is to avoid overheating
the bit. Use many light cuts rather than a single heavy one.

But the best thing I discovered is to make a practice of positioning
the bit in t he collet so that the shank is not bottomed out. To do
this, I insert the bit all the way and then pull it out about 1/4"
and hold it there while tightening the collet. Then, when (not if)
the bit gets stuck, I can rap on the end of the bit with a
wodd or runbber mallet to break it loose.

---
	Robert Haar               InterNet : rhaar@gmr.com 
	Computer Science Dept., G.M. Research Laboratories
DISCLAIMER: Unless indicated otherwise, everything in this note is
personal opinion, not an official statement of General Motors Corp.
From: tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How do I bend an oak 4x4? (rounding it afterwards)
Date: 6 Oct 92 19:25:44 GMT
Organization: University of Arizona UNIX Users Group

Wants to make a 4" dia 80" long, smooth curve that rises about 4" in the
center...

1)  Start with a 80" long 4" by 8", and cut it out.  

Advantages:  easy...  especially if you rent a corbel saw for the day.
Labor non-intenesive.   No question about the shape you get- no spring back.

Disadvantages:  You end up with a really weird piece of waste that you'll
never be able to use all of...    material cost versus labor trade off.
If you have lengthwise strain there will so chance of splitting along the 
straight grain, although for this small curvature I'm not sure this is a
problem.


2)  start with a 80" 4" x 4" and steam bend the puppy.

Advantges:  strong - grain runs the length.  Can be some esthetic advantage
if you want the grain like this, and want solid wood.   Can be fun to do.

Disadvantages:  darned hard to do right.  Spring back can be a problem, so
jig has to be made different shape than the finished product.   Checking
a distinct possibilty.


3)  laminate out of thinner strips;

3a)  very thin strips

Advantages - no steam bending required.  No spring back.   Ver strong.
Easy to do.

Disadvantages - looks like plywood.  In my opinion looks like a quick fix,
but that is only my esthetic.     Lots of gluing, might not take stain
well.  Plays hell with your drawknife/spokeshave if you use them for
rounding.

3b)  laminate thicker (1/4 to 1/2) boards

Advantages: less gluing, looks less like plywood.   Kinder to the edge tools
on rounding.

Disadvantages:  need to steam bend each strip to different radius, but can
probably force same radii together.  Might be hard to assure tight fit
along length of each strip...  could lead to voids.
From: mikey@smartstar.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: shaper question
Date: 29 Sep 92 23:53:22 GMT
Organization: SmartStar Corporation / Signal Technology


  I have a simple question, thats been bugging me for several weeks now.  7
years ago I bought a DELTA LD (light duty) shaper with a 1/2 spindle.  I also
bought a stile and rail set and raised panel cutter.  The raised cutter is the
same as the Freud UC 210, actually I think it is the Freud but I am at work and
cant check, it does not have 4 wings like the new ones.  Anyway on to my
question.  The raised panel cutter came with 1/2 inch bushings and I used 
it A LOT in the past and did not use it for the last 2 years until a couple of 
weeks ago and now I have to use it some more.  And I am scared of it, whenever I
think of those 3 large carbide wings spinning around at 9000 RPM on that little
tiny spindle.  Is it really OK to use that cutter on this shaper or have I been
lucky it didn't break and cut me in half.  I know it came with the bushing 
which is why I started using it and I did use a lot in the past but now I 
guess I am older and more careful, I tend to use my shaper a lot for small work
and dont have a problem with that, its just this cutter and my next project 
that bothers me.  Any info would be greatly appreciated.

	mike

	mikey@smartstar.com
From: byennaco@divet.East.Sun.COM (Robert Yennaco - Sun BOS Software)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Squeaky miter
Date: 5 Oct 1992 15:04:34 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems
Distribution: usa
Reply-To: byennaco@divet.East.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: divet.east.sun.com


When my miter gauge slides across the (cast-iron) surface of my table
saw, it creates a very irritating squeak that takes all the fun out of
the "music" of the blade cutting thru a piece of stock.  It's even more
irritating in a cold basement during a N.E. winter.  Anybody know how
to get rid of this?
From: wilson@schaefer.math.wisc.edu (Bob Wilson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Miscellaneous Questions...
Date: 6 Oct 92 13:20:37 GMT
Organization: Univ. of Wisconsin Dept. of Mathematics

pauld@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com (Paul Davis) writes:

>Rob Robason (robason@fc.hp.com) writes
>> I have a 1/2" mortising attachment for my press but recently busted
>> the tip off the bit.  Has anyone busted a 1/2" mortise chisel lately
>> that would sell the bit cheap?

>Woodworker's Supply of New Mexico offers a 1/2" mortising bit for $11.95.
>Grizzly seems to offer the bit and chisel both for $9.50 (the catalog is 
>unclear about what is included).  Where you thinking of something cheaper
>than this?
Note that there are two popular sizes of the chisels, and maybe yet
more unpopular ones. The common ones have either 5/8" or 3/4"
diameter at the top, so we had better find out what the original
poster wanted if he isn't going to buy a bit and chisel getting an
unusable chisel, although at that price maybe he is willing to do so
to get the bit... Are the _bits_ the same?
Bob Wilson
wilson@math.wisc.edu