HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: srussell@lynx.msc.cornell.edu.UUCP (Stephen Russell,147 Bard,54648,)
Subject: Re: Low O.S.G. reading
Originator: srussell@snoopy.msc.cornell.edu
Organization: Cornell-Materials-Science-Center
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 15:29:43 GMT

From article <6RqwXB1w165w@freds.cojones.com>, by loodvrij@freds.cojones.com (Loodvrij):
> nicholas@brazil.psych.purdue.edu (Jeffrey Nicholas) writes:
> 
>>I too had a similar experience with IPA.  I used 6.6# of light extract and
>>1 pound of honey and got an original gravity of 1.030.  I think it is time fo
>
> I've been brewing for a few months now (17 batches) but just lately I've been
> getting some pretty low gravity readings. I just did an Imperial Stout with
> 10 pounds of extract which is reading 1.030! I'm not at all convinced of the

The reason you both had abnormal readings is most likely poor mixing of the
wort with water in the fermenter.  I have had this problem on numerous
occasions.  It's especially bad if the water is added second, as then by
density stratification, the wort will stay near the bottom and the water
near the top.  Better to have the water in there before you add wort!
Better still to do a full volume boil and chill it before adding to the
fermenter -- once I did this I found I'd eliminated false OG readings.

It could also be a faulty hydrometer or you were measuring at a higher
temperature than the one at which the hydrometer was calibrated.  Check
with water at 60F, as the stout brewer did.

While all liquid malt extracts are _not_ created equal, they will _all_ yield
around 30-36 points gravity per pound per gallon.  Honey is actually slightly
higher -- 40 pt/lb/gal.  So the IPA should be at around OG (6.6x33 +1x40)/5 =
~52 --> 1.052 SG; the stout at 10x33/5 = 66 --> 1.066 SG.  I deliberately
chose an intermediate value of 33 here; dividing by 5 normalizes it to volume.

For dried malt extract, the numbers are more like 42-45.  (less of the weight
is water)  Note that after storage of DME it is probably best to measure it
out by volume, since the water absorbed will only affect volume slighly while
it will have a great effect on the weight.  And DME is notoriously good at
absorbing water!

It is nearly impossible to get an abnormal gravity from extracts.  There
is both a maximum and a minimum to the amount of sugar these syrups contain.

Good luck and good brewing,

STEVE
From: sandy@hpwrce.mayfield.hp.com (Sandy Knight)
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 16:28:35 GMT
Subject: Re: 33 QUART CANNING KETTLE
Organization: the HP Mtn.View Resp. Cntr.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing

What type of pots are these? The price seems excelent but I would never buy
another enamel pot (I just dropped mine and cracked the enamel 40 bucks down 
the drain!).

Email or post would be great,

Thanks

Sandy Knight (sandy@hpwrce.mayfield.hp.com)


No quaint little sayings today, PLUS Views/jabber etc. are mine and mine alone!
From: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us (Joseph Nathan Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Plain Old Apple Juice Concentrate?
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 93 09:20:44 EDT
Organization: 5 Sigma Software
Reply-To: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us
X-Mailer: uAccess - Macintosh Release: 1.5v5


In article <C19Lx8.2E6@news.ucs.mun.ca> (rec.crafts.brewing), colette@morgan.ucs.mun.ca (Colette Goodyear) writes:
) Can I use plain old pasteurized apple juice made from concentrate
) as found in the freezer section of the grocery store?  Anything
) that I should add/delete to the recipe?

Sure.  Avoid juices/concentrates that have potassium sorbate, sorbic
acid, or "sorb" anything added.  Personally I would also avoid juices
that have other preservatives added (benzoate, etc.) but I don't know
whether they have a significant effect on yeast.  Around here, the
juice that comes in 1-gallon jugs is pasteurized w/o any preservatives
added.  I don't recall what the deal with frozen concentrates is.
Anyway, the frozen Seneca "natural" juice that looks kind of like cider 
might be worth a try.

If you use apple JUICE, which is made by steeping apples in boiling
water and then extracting the juice, you aren't really making hard
CIDER, which is made by cold-pressing apples.  The end result, however,
will probably have less variation in flavor.  Hard cider runs the
full gamut from the excellent to the awful.  Ersatz "cider" made from
apple juice is usually at least pretty good.  However, that real
hard cider flavor may be elusive.

Adding apple juice concentrate to existing fresh cider is a nice way
to add a little kick to the resulting fermented drink.

If you are planning to keep the cider in bottles for a while, I suggest 
that you pasteurize/sterilize the must by boiling or addition of potassium
metabisulfite (Campden tablets) and follow procedures usually used
for wine/beermaking.  If you are planning to drink it
while it's still very young (even when still fermenting), sanitation
isn't terribly important.  Folks will suggest just throwing yeast
into the cider, period, which will generally work.

================O Fortuna, velut Luna, statu variabilis================
uunet!joebloe!joseph   (609) 273-8200 day   joseph%joebloe@uunet.uu.net
2102 Ryan's Run East        Rt 38 & 41             Maple Shade NJ 08052
Copyright 1993 by Joseph N. Hall.   Permission granted to copy and
redistribute freely over USENET and by email.  Commercial use prohibited.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: spgo@is.morgan.com (Stefan Goellner)
Subject: Re: ancient beer
Organization: Morgan Stanley - IS
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 20:10:11 GMT

An unreferenced person tells a tale of archaeologists getting together,
analysing residue and making an undrinkable beer. Rick Meyers then chimes
in and claims that the beer was a) good b) it was Fritz Maytag who did
this and c) he had a recipe. Not to be overly sarcastic here, but could it
be that these were two different events, considering that none of the info
matches?

Just curious...

Stef
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: frampton@skitzo.dseg.ti.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Low O.S.G. reading
Date: 26 Jan 93 08:25:00 CDT
Organization: Texas Instruments Component Test Facility

> I've been brewing for a few months now (17 batches) but just lately I've been
                          ^^^^^^^^^^      ^^^^^^^^^^
  My gawd man!  Either your brews ferment fast or you've went out and bought
  a truckload of Carboys.   In anycase, I'm impressed. :-)
From: Larry.Lund@p12.f79.n105.z1.fidonet.org (Larry Lund)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Crushing Grains with a Blender
Date: 20 Jan 93 08:52:10 GMT
Article-I.D.: therose.727583846.AA00000

Hello All!
If anyone has any information on what speed and how long when using a blender
to crush grains, I'd sure like to know. Until the cash flow comes back and I'm
able to buy a corona mill, I need to do it this way. I will probably be using
a 2 row malt (Maybe 6 not sure at this point). Thanks 8-)


Larry
N7LBP @ W0RLI.or
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: john@ice.stx.com (John DiMarzio)
Subject: Re: need address
Reply-To: john@ice.stx.com
Organization: Hughes STX, Lanham, MD
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 18:38:37 GMT

In article <22JAN199312110525@stars.gsfc.nasa.gov>, puc@stars.gsfc.nasa.gov (Bernard Puc) writes:
}Howdy Brewers-
}	Can anyone tell me in what city Old Dominion Brewery is
}located?  I know its somewhere in Northern Virginia.
}
}	Thanks in advance...
}
}-Bernard 


from the 1990-91 yellow pages (shouldn't have changed since then)

44633 Guilford Dr. Ashburn VA (?zip)
ph. 703-689-1225

John DiMarzio
Hughes STX Corp.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jbunn@seanews.akita.com (John E Bunn)
Subject: Re: Aluminum Pots: good or bad
Organization: SEANEWS - Seattle Public Access News + Mail
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 05:37:32 GMT

ddjohnson@galaxy.gov.bc.ca writes:

> In article <1993Jan20.112024.17587@lmpsbbs.comm.mot.com>, (David Ingham) writ
> > What's the story on Aluminum pots to boil your wort? If they are bad, why? 
> > 
> 
> OK, its time I told this story. I was recently "invited" to a 
> sales/dinner party where the salesperson was espousing the 
> benefits of his cookware and stated that the gases comming off 
> aluminium cookware were enough to kill a small bird.
> 
> I took particular interest in this statement, as I'm involved in 
> the air quality field and one of my areas of responsibility just
> happens to be an aluminium smelter. So, I ask, "just what are 
> these gases that can kill this small bird?".
> 
> His response: "I don't know, sir, but our head office in the 
> States (USA; I live in Canada) assures me that they are enough to 
> kill a small bird".
> 
> Pretty scary stuff -  I wonder if they factored out the burner on 
> high? Next time I visit the smelter (or cook) I'll keep my head 
> down looking for all those small birds underfoot :-)
> 
> DDJ
> -------------------------------------------------------------
> Doug Johnson			"To live is to hope."
> Smithers, British Columbia	 Cambodian proverb
> CANADA				


Actualy he is confused...  Burning Teflon pans produce gasses that
are toxic to birds...

JB

--
[] SEANEWS [] Seattle Public Access Usenet News + Mail [] +1 206 747 NEWS []
jbunn@seanews.akita.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: gleason@scf16.scf.loral.com (Robert Gleason)
Subject: Ever heard of this beer?
Organization: Loral Space and Range Systems, Sunnyvale, CA
Distribution: rec
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 00:24:48 GMT


I'm trying to find out if I can buy a Dutch (I think) beer called Fax Fade
in the SF Bay area. It's supposed to be nasty stuff that tastes like iron
filings. I wanted to get it for a friend who was abused by this stuff when
he worked overseas.

Thanks for any info,

Robert Gleason.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: us267384@mmm.serc.3m.com (Steven M. Anastasi)
Subject: Wort and tin based solder - facts please 
Organization: 3M - St. Paul, MN  55144-1000 US
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 93 19:05:44 GMT

I recently completed building a slotted copper lauter/mash tun using
lead-free solder, which I have read here, contains tin.

Will a 5.1 PH mash react with tin?  To what degree?  Will my
joints (copper ones) disintegrate?  Will I die?

Common sense tells me that the manufacturers of this solder would
have to have accounted for liquids or other beverages that
may be low in PH.                        

My lauter tun hardware has exposed solder joints, hence they will be
in contact with wort for 1-3 hrs or so.

(For those unfamilar with what I have built, it is a coil of copper
with slots cut into it acting as a drain and filter.  The tubing
lays at the bottom of a cooler and is routed thru the side of the
cooler thru a spigot.  I have 5 or 6 joints in my construction.)

Thanks for the facts :) 

-- 
........................................................................
Steve Anastasi	        "Give a man a fish, and you can feed him for
smanastasi@mmm.com       a day.  Teach him to fish and you can tax him!"
St. Paul, Minnesota                 - hey, I wrote it!
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: culliton@ceres.srg (Tom Culliton x2278)
Subject: Re: What is chang ?
Organization: SRG, Arinc Research Corp., Annapolis, MD
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 93 15:56:02 GMT
Summary: It sure sounds like millet beer

Millet is a cereal grain with small seeds that looks like what you
described.  (It's a common component in bird feed mixtures.)  I have
heard of it being used to make a kind of beer before.  The description
of the brewing process given was vague enough that it would be hard to
say if the product was really beer (fermented with yeast) or some other
type of grain beverage.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: mtm@CAMIS.Stanford.EDU (Mike Macgirvin)
Subject: Re: Crushing Grains with a Blender
Organization: Stanford University, California, USA
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 16:53:22 GMT

Larry.Lund@p12.f79.n105.z1.fidonet.org (Larry Lund) writes:

>Hello All!
>If anyone has any information on what speed and how long when using a blender
>to crush grains, I'd sure like to know. Until the cash flow comes back and I'm
>able to buy a corona mill, I need to do it this way. I will probably be using
>a 2 row malt (Maybe 6 not sure at this point). Thanks 8-)


>Larry
>N7LBP @ W0RLI.or

	I used a blender for many months. There doesn't seem to be a
speed that doesn't pulverize, though. The length of time depends on
full it is. And cutting the time results in some grain being
pulverized and some left whole. You just need to grind until it's all
ground. 
	Now whether or not this is to be considered a bad thing is up
to you. Yeah, the husks become part of the batch. Your sparge time
goes way up. But you also get outrageous gravities, if you're into
high-malt beers. The beer might or might not clear, depending on how
many hours you want to sparge.
	Now I have made some very excellent beers with my blenderized
malt.  OK, they probably wouldn't win any world class beer awards,
because of the general tendency to haze. But I'm not after awards, I'm
after thick, malty, high-gravity brews I can enjoy at home.
	Just when I was about to lay out money for a corona myself, I
found my old manual coffee grinder sitting on a shelf, unused since I
bought an elctric. Know something? It works beautifully. Cost me about
15 bucks back in the early 70's. It's even faster than the blender.

mike
From: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us (Joseph Nathan Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: What is chang ?
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 93 08:42:40 EDT
Organization: 5 Sigma Software
Reply-To: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us
X-Mailer: uAccess - Macintosh Release: 1.5v5


In article <1993Jan25.183740.6718@novell.com> (rec.crafts.brewing), dheckman@novell.com (Diane Heckman) writes:
) Personally, I wouldn't know a millet if I tripped over one.  The 
) stuff in the "mug" (a hollowed out section of bamboo) looked like 
) maroon pellets the size of mustard seeds with the husks cracked.

You can find millet with husks in birdseed, or hulled in a bin at your 
local yuppie market or health food store.  When hulled, it looks like
#4-#6 shot sized yellow pellets.  I imagine that somewhere it can
be obtained in 50# feed bags, but I haven't seen it.  It is a major
foodstuff grain in the Middle East and Africa, but doesn't have much
application for humans in North America.

) Is it possible to make "beer" in this fashion?  What was it that I 
) was drinking so willingly?

Millet contains a bit too much oil, and is a bit too strongly flavored,
to use as an ingredient in brewing "traditional" beer.  However, a
few ounces in a batch of beer imparts a pleasant grainy flavor without
any serious negative side effects.  I'm going to try using some again
this year ... I'd describe its overall flavoring effect as, er,
"super corn."

I've found that millet can be substituted for rice to advantage in
chicken or meat loaf.  The resulting flavor is much heartier.

) I thought I'd post to this group rather than alt.beer since the
) level of knowledge seems higher over here.....

Isn't it, though!  :-)

================O Fortuna, velut Luna, statu variabilis================
uunet!joebloe!joseph   (609) 273-8200 day   joseph%joebloe@uunet.uu.net
2102 Ryan's Run East        Rt 38 & 41             Maple Shade NJ 08052
Copyright 1993 by Joseph N. Hall.   Permission granted to copy and
redistribute freely over USENET and by email.  Commercial use prohibited.
From: brewer@meltdown.chi.il.us (Mike Wilson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: BEER BREAD
Date: 20 Jan 93 09:17:45 CST
Organization: The Meltdown - A Team Star BBS

This is the recipe I use for making beer bread.  It's very close to what
"Doctor Math" uses:

Beer Bread
12oz beer (this works for commercial beers unless they kill the yeast)
3 cups flour (any, but at least half should be white)
1 tbs. baking powder
anything else that seems good to you.

Stir ingredients, place into well grased bread pan, put into preheated
350-degree oven for 35-50 mit, until crust is hard and golden.
This recipe has the ease of a quick-bread, but a consistency more like  
risen bread, because of the yeast.  You can also save the dregs of home-  
brew for this purpose as well. Good luck.


I thought that the taste was interesting but tended to be overly bitter.  I've
used stout and I found that it works nicely with added cinnamon and sugar, but
it's still very bitter.  But then, I did use homebrew, using a commercial beer,
even if it's not a mass produced mess, might make it taste better.  I should
try it again, it is very easy.  I was able to make three loaves in a little
less than 4 hours, including mixing, baking and cooling.  It's not bad.

Mike Wilson
brewer@meltdown.chi.il.us
mwilson@farpost.chi.i. us (e-mail only)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing

I'm (still) extract brewing only as well (where do people find the
time and cookware to do whole grain???)

In any case, I'd try adding more crystal malt to the mix.  This adds
body, with a hint of sweetness which may be psycological.  Try bumping
it up in 1 or 2 oz. increments (for a 5 gallon batch) and see what
happens.

Of course, you could just start making dark beers.  You'll probably find
that your friends don't like it as much, but all the more's left for you
:-)

--arne
Organization: University of Illinois at Chicago
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 13:55:20 CST
From: <U53644@uicvm.uic.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: How about potatos ? (Can one make anything from them) ?

Ok, I've already heard that sprouting potatos are poisinous, that's not what
I'm asking about.

As anyone who has ever opened a Finnish cookbook knows, if cooked potatos are
held over low heat for a while (a matter of hours) the complex carbohydrates in
them start to break down into simpler sugars. (The resulting taste has been
compared to that of sweet potatos). Well, has anyone taken this further, and
made an analogue of beer from the resulting malted potatos ? It may sound gross
, but then, how appetizing does a drink made from fermented barley sound ?

                                                       Joseph B. Dunphy
From: hansene@studenth.msu.edu (Edward Hansen)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Beer Tasting Tutorial?
Date: 22 Jan 93 22:03:59 GMT
Organization: Michigan State University
NNTP-Posting-Host: tulip.cps.msu.edu



I am a novice brewer and I'd like to learn how
to describe the tastes of beer so that others
will know what I'm talking about. Does anyone know
of a book that compares widely available beers
with respect to specific taste attributes,
like maltiness, hopiness, full-bodied-ness, etc?
Or better yet, a list of commonly used beer adjectives
with definitions and _examples_. Perhaps this would be
a good project for some experienced beer-judge.


Ted Hansen
hansene@studenth.msu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: kelly@spyro.cray.com (Matt Kelly)
Subject: Diacetyl Rest
Date: 22 Jan 93 13:38:41 CST


Brewers,

I am about to make my first steam beer.  I have, to this point, brewed
only with ale yeast.  My mail-order brew shop hosed up this time, 
however, and sent me Wyeast 2112 (California Lager) instead of the
1056 (Chico Ale) I requested.  I figure this is a good opportunity
to experiment!!!

I have read articles about doing a diacetyl rest when brewing lagers.
What are the details of performing a diacetyl rest?  I know that is 
involves changing the fermentation temperature for a period of time
to get rid of diacetyl, but, specifically, how??????

Is it necessary to do this for a steam beer?  I am planning to ferment
at ~54F.

Thanks in advance,

Matt K.

==============================================================================
kelly@els.cray.com                   |   Cray Research, Inc.
                                     |
Opinions expressed herein are just   |   "The world's fastest supercomputers".
that.                                |
==============================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Subject: Re: Low O.S.G. reading
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean  VA
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 13:02:05 GMT

In article <1993Jan20.210203.1@fnalo.fnal.gov>
 birmingh@fnalo.fnal.gov (Phillip J. Birmingham) writes:

>In article <1jl1k3INN2hi@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>,
> cr829@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Chris G. Bjelica) writes:

>> 3.5 lb. can Amber Malt Extract
>> 3  lbs. Amber Dry Malt Extract
>> 1   lb. Crystal Malt
>> 1/2 lb. Toated Malt

>> After cooling, adding to cold water in 5-gal carboy, and 
>> agitating, I got a 1.0030 S.G. reading (expected 1.0055-1.0065).
 
>> What would make my reading so low?  Would I have gotten a
>> higher reading if I used all canned extract (or all D.M.E.)?

>         I did the same Monday night and got 1.039 for the initial gravity.
>    I used 6.6# of extract syrup. I am wondering if I cracked the grains
>    well enough.

The #1 cause of low S.G. readings in cases where the wort is mixed with 
water is imsufficient mixing.  You will have to experiment with different 
ways of mixing up the water and wort until you have a method that gives you 
a true sample.  I have had it happen to me and have seen it time and time 
again with other new brewers, especially when switching from a bucket to a 
carboy.

One method that works well is to mix everything in a bucket, using a 
sanitized spoon or somesuch to mix well.  Take a sample, then transfer to 
your carboy.

John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own
Fidonet:  1:109/131  Internet:  jdecarlo@mitre.org
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: bench@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (daniel.benscher)
Subject: Re: Crushing Grains with a Blender
Organization: AT&T
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 21:05:57 GMT

I have the same question.

I used a coffee bean grinder to crack specialty grains that I was
adding to the wort and got quite a bit of dust (even though I only
did it for a few seconds).  Should I strain out the dust when I
add the grains or is it OK to throw it all in?  Thanks.

Dan
bud@honshu.att.com
From: rharrie@ac.dal.ca
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Is 2 months in the secondary OK?
Date: 28 Jan 93 13:46:05 -0400
Organization: Dalhousie University, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

Just how long is it safe to leave a batch in the secondary?  I have 
a batch which has been sitting in the secondary with an airlock for
approximately 2 months.  Will the bottled product be better and clearer or
could it turn skunky?

Robert Harrie
Dalhousie University
RHARRIE@AC.DAL.CA
From: kludge@grissom.larc.nasa.gov (Scott Dorsey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Wort and tin based solder - facts please
Date: 25 Jan 1993 19:59:36 GMT
Organization: NASA Langley Research Center and Reptile Farm
NNTP-Posting-Host: grissom.larc.nasa.gov

In article <1993Jan25.190544.29729@mmm.serc.3m.com> us267384@mmm.serc.3m.com (Steven M. Anastasi) writes:
>
>Will a 5.1 PH mash react with tin?  To what degree?  Will my
>joints (copper ones) disintegrate?  Will I die?

It will react with the tin, and slowly erode the joints.  I am told that
if you are using the thing continuously the damage will be enough that you
may have to resolder the seam every fifteen or twenty years.  This is a
real problem for the local winery, which has been using the same tubs for
the last couple hundred years.

>Common sense tells me that the manufacturers of this solder would
>have to have accounted for liquids or other beverages that
>may be low in PH.                        

The silver-bearing solders are better for this kind of thing, but they
also have a higher melting point and are a bit more difficult to work with.

>My lauter tun hardware has exposed solder joints, hence they will be
>in contact with wort for 1-3 hrs or so.

Don't worry much about it.
--scott