HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Why use anything but a butt joint?
Date: 12 Sep 92 06:13:14 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <BuF33D.4ot@cs.dal.ca> armstrng@cs.dal.ca (Stan Armstrong) writes:
>I understand about the mechanical strengths of various interlocking joints.
>I understand about the increased glue surface areas of various joints.

>However, modern glues are "stronger than the wood."

>Why use anything but a butt joint?

>Does the answer lie in the word "stronger"? Are the glues stronger under
>tension but not under sheer, or something like that?

It's a matter of leverage and grain direction.  While a tensile strength
of a thousand or more pounds per square inch may seem pretty good, when
you stress a right angle joint (especially with long arms), the tension is
on a small portion of the joint area itself, and a small crack will
progressively spread.  Many times it will be the (face of the) wood itself
that fails, not the glue.  Think of the leverage as being a ratio of the
lengths of the "arms" versus the width of the glue joint.  Where the width
matters more than the glue joint area.

Fancier joints, such as dado or dovetail also make the joint wider,
reducing the leverage.

>I know that end-grain to long-grain glue joints are weak. But I have in mind
>other kinds of "butt" joints, that is, joints with no mechanical support.
>Most people agree that edge glued joints have no need of mechanical
>strengthening or increased glue surface. What about a lap joint where no
>cuts have been used--just cross two sticks and glue them surface to
>surface at the crossing?

Depends on how long the sticks are.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: derek@vesta.unm.edu (Derek Stearns Roff)
Subject: Re: Planes.(East vs West)
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 92 20:12:14 GMT
Organization: University of New Mexico, Albuquerque

Two issues not often discussed: truing plane body and sharpening

I have never bought a plane where the base was flat or square
to the sides.  With a metal plane, truing is best done by a
machinist.  I've done it by hand, and I regreted it.  Once it's
true, it will probably not need much attention.  A wooden plane
will need to be trued more often, but can be done MUCH more easily.
I see no clear advantage here, it depends on your style, skills, 
access to metal working machines, etc.

Sharpening is a constant for plane use.  If you don't do it regularly,
you cannot get great performance.  Most metal planes come with
blades that are too soft for my tastes, but with frequent sharpening,
they will perform.  Buying a replacement blade is my first step.  I
use Hock blades.  Initial flattening of the back of the blade and
properly sharpening the bevel is important and tedious.  Again, I 
don't think either style of plane is significantly easier/better.

Resharpening, that is sharpening during use, is much better with
a japanese blade.  If I am working on something that I really
care about, which I plan to finish without sanding, in order to
preserve the luster that comes from planing, then I will
resharpen often.  I've heard that George Nakasima would resharpen
after every stroke.  I limit myself to about once every 15 minutes.
Just a few strokes over my 8000 water stone is quick, easy
and makes a noticeable difference in the surface luster.  This
touch-up resharpening is easy to do on a japanese blade, because it
is so thick that the bevel provides a built in guide to maintain
the proper angle.  On western style blades, I may try this from 
time to time, but I need a honing guide to properly maintain the
angle.  It takes way too much time to remove the blade, set up
the honing guide to the proper angle, sharpen, and reverse the 
process.  So, for general work I use both my eastern and my western 
style planes, but for fine stuff, I only use my eastern style.  

derek roff
derek@triton.unm.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Shopvac
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 92 15:29:32 GMT

In article <14SEP92.21899543.0026.MUSIC@NMUMUS> FABY000 <FABY@NMUMUS.BITNET> writes:
>I just fininshed working in my shop and swept it with my Shpovac.  I
>have had the vac about two years and I am constantly irritated by the
>hoses coming off when I use it.  My second criticism is the very short
>cord that comes with the vac.  Do others experience the problem with the
>hoses and if so do you have a way to keep them on?  It seems to me the
>manufacturers could correct the hose problem if they cared to.  Roger

I have the same problems. In addition, mine has gotten to the point that
the port into which you plug the hoses will frequently separate into its
two components. The solution to both problems is simple. Buy the top of
the line Craftsman shop vacuum. It has a longer cord and the hoses don't
come out. So far I've been to cheap to actually do this, but my father
had one of these.

patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | I pity the man who don't drink, 'cause when he
George Patterson -  | gets up in the morning, that's as good as he's
                    | going to feel the whole day.
                    |                             Joe E. Brown
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: koenig@galileo.ifa.hawaii.edu (George Koenig)
Subject: Re: Trading Cards ? was (Addresses...)
Organization: Institute for Astronomy, Hawaii
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 00:35:59 GMT


From: shaw@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Shaw Moldauer)
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 14:34:36 GMT
Subject: Re: joining edges of wood
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

In rec.woodworking, neves@aristotle.ils.nwu.edu (David &) writes:

> I want to make a chest of drawers for my preschooler.  I am a relative novice
> with just a few portable power tools (including a just purchased router).
> 
> I was thinking of using plywood for the carcass of the chest but was
> also wondering about using (pine) 1 bys and gluing them together.  My
> questions:

Plywood would work very well here, but you need to attach small strips
of wood to the plywood edges that show. A simple face frame in front,
mitre the top, etc.

> 
> Is carpenter glue the appropriate glue to do this?

Yellow glue will be stronger than the wood.

> 
> What width of 1 bys does one usually glue together?  Would the width
> of these 1 bys be different for the top and the sides?
> 
I would be very cautious about using wood for a carcase until you
really feel you understand wood movment. The solid wood will have to
expand and contract. The design must allow this wood movement. With
manufactured products, very little movement is expected, so you can
assume the chest will not crack apart. Also, the small pieces used to
cover the edges will not expand and contract enough to cause problems.

> Is it enough to just use glue or would one also have to use dowels or
> something similar to connect the edges of wood?  If just using glue is
> making the edges straight by using a router good enough?  I've read
> something about hollowing the middle of the edges slightly for long
> pieces of wood.  Is that necessary here?

Everything I've read indicates that dowels and biscuits both reduce
the strength of the joint, but they both help with alignment. If you
want to make the sanding/scraping job easier, they are the ticket. I
mostly just use straight square joints to glue-up panels.

> 
> -Thanks for any help, David
> 
> --
> neves@ils.nwu.edu
> Institute for the Learning Sciences, 1890 Maple, Evanston Il 60201

				-Shaw
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Thu, 10 Sep 1992 21:19:45 EDT
From:         FABY000 <FABY@NMUMUS.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Black Walnut

I will add that in Marquette Michigan saw mills in this area also will
not accept yard trees for the same reason.  Not too long ago I read a
small item in one of the woodworking magazines about pieces of metal a
sawmill found in walnut or some other wood over the years.  Apparently
they scan logs for metal before cutting and remove the culprit.  There
were nails, electrical fittings, fence pieces etc. in the photo with the
article.  I believe the logs were valuable ones that warranted this
extra step.  Roger Barry
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: clarke@watson.ibm.com (Ed Clarke)
Subject: Re: Electrical problems in FUSE BOX?
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 20:11:38 GMT
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center

In article <lb1psmINNj0e@news.bbn.com>, rperry@bbn.com (Richard A. Perry) writes:
|> My problem seems that I can't seem to shut off certain lights in my house
|> by turning off the circuit breaker.  This would seem like it is a bad

It sounds like you have crossed circuits - power connected from two breakers
to a single outlet somewhere.  It's bloody dangerous, immoral, illegal and
probably fattening.  It should be fixed as soon as possible if this is the
case.

If you can get someone to help you, you should get a couple of walkie-talkies
and map out breaker vs. outlet for your whole house.  Go to each outlet,
turn off all the breakers and then turn them on one at a time.  If the
outlet goes on TWICE, you have a serious safety problem.  Don't forget to
write down which breaker goes to which outlet ...

Ed Clarke
clarke@watson.ibm.com
From: fkilpatr@afit.af.mil (Freeman A. Kilpatrick)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Collect'm, Trade'm
Date: 4 Sep 92 20:45:35 GMT
Article-I.D.: afit.1992Sep4.204535.16863
Organization: Air Force Institute of Technology


>In article <1992Sep3.153611.22339@cs.ucf.edu> clarke@acme.ucf.edu (Thomas Clarke) writes:
>>Have a Craftsman Bench-Top Table Saw trading card (#17).
>>
>>Am willing to trade for Band Saw.
>>

Bench-top table-saw... Hah!  Good luck with that one.  I, however, have the very
rare, limited edition, crafstman tap-and-die set (# 23).  Will sell to the highest
bidder (bidding starts at $50, please).

ak

-- 
Alex Kilpatrick  fkilpatr@afit.af.mil  
"Where the ENIAC is equipped with 18,000 vacuum tubes and weighs 30 tons, computers in the future may have only 1,000 vacuum tubes and weigh only 1 1/2 tons." 
---Popular Mechanics, March 1949
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: andy@balr.com (Andrew Little)
Subject: Re: My name is Tim, and I am a molding nerd...
Organization: BALR Corporation, Oak Brook, Illinois.
Date: Fri, 04 Sep 1992 14:19:07 GMT

In article <WOODWORK%92090307273551@IPFWVM.BITNET> Doug Cutler <UNCDWC@UNCVM1.BITNET> writes:
>On Tue, 1 Sep 1992 20:01:01 GMT Tim Holt said:
>>Hi...
>>
>>Uppity Molding Nerds rise up and show your baseboards!
>

I've always had this urge to design and build a piece of furniture
(plant stand or something) completely out of moulding.  Probably would
spend an inordinate amount of time designing clamps and jigs to put it
together, but I always thought I could make a very ornate piece with
"stock" items.

BTW, I have seen small greek columns (Corinthian?) made from X number
of pieces of moulding.  It looked like they took some inside corner
moulding, and then planed the correct angle on the edges, and then
glued it all together somehow.

Andy Little                      BALR Corporation
andy@balr.com                    Software Solutions in Real Time

You are alone in a room with very intricate moulding...


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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Sat, 5 Sep 1992 17:51:55 EDT
From:         FABY000 <FABY@NMUMUS.BITNET>
Subject:      Table saws: Contractors, Tilting Arbor, or Grizzly?

I have the Delta Contractor's saw with 30 inch Unifence.  I am very
pleased with this saw and it does everything I need.  I build chests of
drawers, dining room tables and chairs, living room furniture and many
other items for my children and others and have had no problems using
the saw.  Last year I built a sliding cut off table described in
Woodsmith and this was an immense help to me.  I had a Makita protable
table saw before purchasing the Delta.  Also, keep the saw in my garage
and purchased a mobile base for it which was necessary.  The first
mobile base was a Delta which was poorly designed.  I settled on the HTC
base.  Roger Barry
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Squaring Up Stock
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 92 17:54:47 GMT

In article <88060@netnews.upenn.edu> meiting@gradient.cis.upenn.edu (Mei-Ting Lu) writes:
>
>Could somebody out there give me some hints on squaring up stock.
>I have a router, 4 inch portable Sears jointer, and power planer.
>My problem is this:  by jointing or planing an edge, I can get
>the edge to be straight, but it is not guaranteed that the
>two cross edges will be parallel.  If I had a table saw, I guess
>I could plane one side, and then cut the opposite side with the planed
>side up against the fence.  But without a table saw, are there any
>good techniques for squaring up stock?  I'm trying to square up
>random-width/random-length stock.  

I assume you have some type of saw. If you have a hand saw, use a square
that you know to be accurate to draw a line and use the saw to cut the
board off a little long. Use the square again to draw a line the proper
distance away from the end for the base of your router. Then clamp a board
down along this line as a guide for the router and use the router to clean
up the edge.

If you have a circular saw, use the square to draw a line the proper
distance away from the point at which you wish to cut. Then clamp a guide
board down to the line as a guide for your circular saw and use the saw.

If you don't have *any* kind of saw, I suppose you *could* use the
router to cut through the board, but I'd say at that point that you
really ought to go spend some money.

Anyway, I used guide boards with routers and circular saws for years
before I could afford a table saw, and the technique works well. I would
recommend this over any of the low-cost "saw guides" I've seen.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | I had been told that the best defense is a good
George Patterson -  | offense, so I made up my mind early in life to
                    | become as offensive as possible.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Morten Mortise and Tenon Jig
Date: 6 Sep 92 01:38:20 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <1992Sep3.162428.1528@adobe.com> bennett@adobe.com writes:
|David Dorfman writes
|> In <3779@ecicrl.ocunix.on.ca> clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)  
|writes:
|> >One further warning about the bit.  The real shank is much smaller than  
|1/4".
|> >A split sleeve is slipped over the real shank to hold the bearing in place
|> >against the cutters.  If the router collet isn't cranked down good and tight
|> >the sleeve will start rotating on the real shank, and overheat everything
|> >*very* fast.  And mak the depth of cut vary.  My bit is slightly burnt from
|> >this.

|> This is very true, I would like to see the two piece shaft "go away". Does 
|> anyone know of a 1/2" shaft version of the ball bearing bit required for this  
|>jig? 

|Wouldn't that be difficult given that the bearing itself is less than 1/2" in  
|diamter?

Not really.  Just have to be a little more careful about how low you
drop the bit.

|If you're having overheating problems and have a variable speed
|router, try slowing the router down to about 15K-18K rpm.

Switching to 1/2" would just make the bit a little more stable.  It howls
enough to make me think that it's going just a bit beyond the capabilities
of the bit.  Remember, the true shank on this bit is considerably < 1/4".
The collet on the router is actually grabbing the split tube that's acting
as a retainer for the bearing.  The tube has the 1/4" OD.  The real shank
is inside the tube.  The overheating is from the real shank slipping inside
the retainer.

Though, I don't have a 1/2" router, so I couldn't use it anyways.

|If I'm not mistaken, the bit is a 5/16" bit with a 3/8" bearing. I've seen 
|non-PC made replacements in Eagle America's catalog.

Sounds right.  Actually, what would have been nicer is if the bearing was
the same size as the bit.  Then standard template following bits could
be used without any bearing offset.

I was a little annoyed that when I made a stair jig to router the dadoes
for the treads I had to buy another bit.

|But, here's an idea: Onsrud makes a 5/16" HSS spiral bit with a 1/4" shank. You 
|can either put a 3/8" template guide on your router or buy a 1/4" id by 3/8"
|od ball bearing and place it on the shank. I've seen this bit in catalogs
|from Woodcraft and Leigh Industries (the dovetail jig people). Spiral bits are
|great for plunging into wood, and the spiral cutters make a very clean cut.
|Onsrud claims the spiral cutting geometry also reduces wear on the cutting
|edges, so you don't really need carbide.

This is an idea.  The jig does tend to choke on its own shavings.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
From: malcolmm@cabezon.uucp (J. Malcolm Manness)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Help on Router bit selection
Date: 15 Sep 92 23:58:56 GMT
Article-I.D.: cabezon.1992Sep15.235856.18733
Organization: Logic Modelling Inc of Beaverton Oregon

In article <118974@muvms3.bitnet> rcbi27@muvms3.bitnet (DBRUM) writes:
>In article <1992Sep2.170830.683@schbbs.mot.com>, yasin@laser.dev.cdx.mot.com (Yasin) writes:
>> I am a novice, interested in purchasing a decent set of
>> router bits. I know it depends on the work I am going to
>> do and also on the budget. But how about suggesting the
>> general purpose bits, I have seen lot of catalogs and
>> cannot make my mind that which bit is more useful then the
>> others.
>
>Actually, there really are no "general purpose" router bits, in practical
>terms. It's best (and cheapest :-) to just buy individual bits *as you
>need them*. 

>The sets of "popular" bits may look like they'll save you
>money because it's a bulk buy, but if the set contains even one bit that

----------------------------------

I hasve a set of Amana bits that are supposed to be very good, for which I paid 
(I think) about $110.  While I am not sure that I will use EVERY bit in the set,
It does appear that I will use most of them.  In this case the cost of the items 
separately would have been close to twice the cost of the set.  I am not sure where
exactly the break-even point is, but it was better than "not using only one."

On the other hand, I was pretty sure that I wanted to get into wood working
pretty solidly, and was in a position to pamper myself eith the purchase of
the set.

Also, I found "The Router Book" by ??? from one of the book clubs reasonably
helpful.  Particularly, I built their "first project" workbench.  This was
a great way to get started!

Good Luck!!




-- 

Malcolm Manness

		-------------------------------------
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Sat, 12 Sep 1992 19:40:06 EDT
From:         FABY000 <FABY@NMUMUS.BITNET>
Subject:      Sewing table plans

I purchased several plans from Furniture Designs in Illinois a few years
ago.  One was a roll top desk.  The plans were excellent, no mistakes
etc.  Roger Barry
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 11 Sep 1992 20:05:39 EDT
From:         FABY000 <FABY@NMUMUS.BITNET>
Subject:      Under $500 6" Jointers

I have a Sears joiner which was purchased about three years ago.  I have
used it plenty and it has served me well.  However, I would not buy
another Sears.  The fence is not easy to adjust and it is terribly had
for me to adjust the tables, change blades etc.  I do not know what
brand I would buy next time but it would not be Grizzly or any other of
the Taiwan imports unless it is sold by the name of one of the well
known US companies. Roger Barry
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: phil@eos.arc.nasa.gov (Phil Stone)
Subject: Cutting aluminum on a table saw
Organization: NASA Ames Res. Ctr, Calif.
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 21:09:43 GMT

I have heard that it is possible to do nice clean cuts through
aluminum with a table saw.  Does this apply to relatively thick
(1/8") stock?

What kind of blade must be used?  I assume the combo blade that
came with my Contractor's saw is too coarse-toothed.

Any special caveats?  I suppose one must be even more careful
about the dust, for instance.

Thanks for any info.  Reply here, if you think it's of general
interest.  Email is fine, too.


	Phil Stone     (phil@eos.arc.nasa.gov | ...ames!eos!phil)

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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 14 Sep 1992 20:08:47 EDT
From:         FABY000 <FABY@NMUMUS.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Hutch building suggestions requested

My personal opinion is if I am going to make a piece of furniture then I
want to use the same wood throughout.  The finished product is beautiful
inside and out.  Practically I do not worry much about expansion and
contraction when the same wood is used.  To me using less expensive wood
inside a chest or other furniture item lessens its attractiveness and
seems to be more like factory made stuff.  Just my opinion.  Roger Barry
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Thu, 10 Sep 1992 21:24:55 EDT
From:         FABY000 <FABY@NMUMUS.BITNET>
Subject:      dado blade & birch

Birch is tough to work with.  You did not indicate how deep the cut was.
I would take shallow cuts on each pass.  I do not think the width is too
much.  How about 1/8 to 1/4 deep each pass?  Also, was the scrap a piece
with odd grain patters knots etc?  Roger Barry