HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: Routers for router table : Opinions Wanted
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 20:59:08 GMT

M19120@mwvm.mitre.org writes
> I have a Bosch 1604 router (not a plunge router) mounted
> to a Woodhaven lexan router base. The simple height adjustment
> on the 1604 makes adjustment easy when the router is in the table.
>  
> To add plunge routing capabilities I purchased a Porter Cable plunge
> router base which the motor assembly of the 1604 slides into.  So far
> this has been a satifactory solution to having an easily adjustable
> table mounted router that can be converted into a free hand plunge
> router.
>  
> The cost of this set up is not to bad:
> Bosch 1604 - $110
> Porter Cable plunge base - $75
>  
> The ideal system would be one with all of the functionality listed
> above along with a variable speed router - for panel raising etc.

This *is* a good setup. Some people prefer the PC router motor instead of 
the Bosch, but they're quite close. But, as my friend Joel Gringorten points 
out, the *ideal* system involves me than one router. A router big enough to 
handle panel raising bits is too awkward to comfortably use with small bits
for inlay work, for instance. But, buying a second router starts running
into bigger dollar outlays than the two-base single-motor stragedy, which
gets you the most bang for your buck.

Since the size and weight of the router doesn't matter when mounted in
a table, and since any panel raising type of work you might do should
be done with the table mounted router, I'd recommend getting a big
electronic variable speed router for the table. For hand-held use a 
mid-range sized router is as big as you need. I want something big
enough to plunge cut 1/2" wide mortises, but nimble enough to put a
1/16" spiral bit on for inlay work. Joel feels that a third router,
like a small laminate trimmer, is really ideal, but I haven't liked
any laminate trimmer's depth adjustment mechanism.

I've got a 2 HP Bosch plunger that weighs about 10 pounds for hand-held
use, but still haven't decided on the big table-mounted monster, but the
big non-plunge PC looks nice. The big Elu has a secondary depth ring,
which means the motor isn't trapped in a spiral groove and so falls out 
when used upside down. Bummer.

BTW, variable speed is handy for more than just panel raising. When
cutting deep mortises, slowing the router down a bit seems to reduce
the chance of burning and overall just feels better when cutting.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
"And remember this - there's no more important safety rule than to wear
these: safety glasses."
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stevep@lugh.se.hou.compaq.com (Steve Pinn)
Subject: Re: Table saws...and rust
Organization: Compaq Computer Corporation
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 22:37:43 GMT

In article <lcjqh0INN63t@jethro.Corp.Sun.COM>, pdixon@aslan.eng.sun.com (Peter Dixon, Sun Software Product Support) writes:
|> I'm currently shopping for a table saw.  (My intended use is cabinetry
|> with, no doubt, some rough carpentry work thrown in as well.)  I've
|> narrowed my choices to the Delta Contractor's saw w/Unifence, or the
|> Ryobi BT3000.  
|> 
|> Once prime advantage of the Ryobi, for my purposes, is its cast aluminum
|> table.  (I live in the Santa Cruz mountains of California; in the winter
|> it's essentially a rain forest, very high humidity.)  On the other hand,
|> after looking at the saw, I'm concerned about the unusual miter gauge --
|> it seemed rather prone to slipping away from the angle desired.
|> 
|> The Delta has the advantage of being some sort of "standard."  But...
|> I'm worried about rust.  Can anyone suggest a treatment that will
|> alleviate the rust issue, and not mess up the wood being worked?
|> 
|> General comments on the relative merits of the two saws will also be
|> appreciated.
|> 

Peter,
Living in Houston with constant high humidity I understand your fears!  I have tried waxing, baby powder, WD40, Boeing T9 and still have the odd run in with rust.  I am told that there is a product called Kity Speed (wax) (from Kity the machine people) that is supposed to be quite fantastic at keeping rust under control.

Still my personal preference is for cast iron. 

Steve
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: removing cutters and collets
Date: 30 Sep 92 17:09:07 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <1992Sep29.204258.21259@adobe.com> bennett@adobe.com writes:
>I'm not famaliar enough with the PC 690 to know which collet design it uses,
>but given that it has this sticking problem, I'd be quite surprised if its
>collet is of the 3 piece double-clutch design. Unless, of course, it
>is this design and people don't realize it and so aren't loosening the
>collet nut enough to go past the second resistance.

Probably the latter.  It may well be that few routers have anything
else...

I have a 15 year old cheapo Sears router that I used to go completely
nuts trying to remove the bit *until* I discovered this "second
resistance" business.  Now it pops out no trouble every time.

So, regardless of what type of collet/router you have (and I don't
think the Sear's is anything fancy), next time it sticks, try cranking
the nut off a few more turns after it gets loose the first time and
try again.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mfb@metropolis.super.org (Michael F. Bridgland)
Subject: Delta contractor's saw
Organization: Supercomputing Research Center, Bowie MD, USA
Distribution: rec.woodworking
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 14:49:21 GMT


I recently bought a tablesaw. Since many postings concern relative
merits of various saw manufacturers, I thought my experience might be
of interest to others. I also would like some information about blade
guards and aligning the blade.

I bought the Delta contractor's saw with a Jet-Lock fence at a Home
Depot, took it home, unpacked it inside the car, and carried it piece
by piece to the basement. This experience eliminated my lingering
doubts about the wisdom of buying this saw rather than a better and
HEAVIER one. Late the next (Friday) afternoon, I read the instruction
manual and organized the parts. All six plastic bags of nuts and bolts
were missing, so I couldn't even assemble the table.

After a brief, horrifying fantasy of carrying it all back upstairs and
back to Home Depot, I called Delta's parts line. They asked for the
model and serial numbers of the saw, and the part numbers of the
missing bags, and promised to ship the missing parts Monday. Over the
weekend, I made a more careful survey of the parts; there was no miter
gauge. After another call to Delta on Monday, I received the nuts and
bolts on Thursday and the miter gauge on Friday. Every manufacturer
will have occasional problems with missing parts. I wonder how many
respond so quickly and with so little bureaucracy.

The saw is now assembled, and generally is satisfactory. The Jet-Lock
fence is a bad joke, but that came as no surprise, because of what
others have written about it. Adjustments to the saw itself are
simple, with two exceptions. The blade guard adjustment is just plain
clumsy. And the manual does not explain how to align the blade
to the table slots.  Supposedly this was done at the factory, but the
blade is not parallel to the slots. Casual measurement reveals a
difference of several thousandths of an inch (perhaps as much as
.01'', but I haven't measured carefully yet) between the blade-to-slot
distances at the front and back of the blade.

I know what to do about the fence, but what about replacing the blade
guard and aligning the blade? Is there a good aftermarket blade guard?
Does anyone know how to align the blade parallel to the table slots?

--
Michael F. Bridgland
Supercomputing Research Center
17100 Science Drive
Bowie, Maryland 20715-4300

Telephone: (301) 805-7382
Internet: mfb@super.org
From: apoyner@as.arizona.edu (Tony Poyner)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Shop vacs
Date: 30 Sep 92 14:58:10 GMT
Reply-To: apoyner@as.arizona.edu
Organization: MMT Observatory, Univ.of Arizona

I have had a Sears shop vac for about 3 years, and have been very
happy with it.  It is a 16-gallon, single speed, and at the time 
was one of the more powerfull models.  I have not found a need
for multiple speeds.  I use it with my planer, and it works fine.
The filter tends to clog up with fine dust and (WORST STUFF) dog
hair.  I now clean the filter with my dust collector!

The cord is plenty long enough, but tends to get stuck under the wheels.  I would buy another if this one died.

---
Tony Poyner                               apoyner@as.arizona.edu
Multiple Mirror Telescope Observatory     Tel   (602) 621-5185
Univ. of Arizona, Tucson, AZ 85721        Fax   (602) 670-5740
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-Acknowledge-To: <PH500000@BROWNVM>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 29 Sep 1992 14:20:49 EDT
From:         Bob Pelcovits <PH500000@BROWNVM.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Makita TableSaw

  In regard to Thomas's message about using a folding table for the Makita, I
was curious who manufactured this table and how much it costs. Do you recommend
 it?



                                  --Bob Pelcovits
                                  Robert_Pelcovits@brown.edu
                                  (401)-863-1432
                                  FAX (401)-863-1157
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: millios@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (william.l.millios)
Subject: The addresses FAQ
Organization: AT&T
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 17:46:03 GMT

To whoever is responsible for upkeeping the Address listing;
please put in which catalog houses require you to pay for the
catalog; it really bums me out when I call somebody long distance,
and I gotta pay another $3 for a catalog, when I've already shot
$3 on the phone call, and I'm not even sure if I want to order
their stuff!

Bill
From: apoyner@as.arizona.edu (Tony Poyner)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How do I bend an oak 4x4?
Date: 2 Oct 92 19:58:58 GMT
Reply-To: apoyner@as.arizona.edu
Organization: MMT Observatory, Univ.of Arizona

In article <dnsurber.718036807@node_26400> dnsurber@lescsse.jsc.nasa.gov (Douglas N. Surber) writes:
>
>I want to make two curved 4" diameter beams, 80" long. They will have a
>smooth circular arc 4" high in the center relative to the ends. If I
>could remember enough geometry I would tell you what the radius of the
>bend was. I would like to use white oak. Any suggestions would be
>welcome.
>
I can't imagine trying to bend such a beast.  Why not laminate it?  For
this sort of radius, half-inch thick oak strips should be relatively
easy to work with, clamping a few at a time to a form.

---
Tony Poyner                               apoyner@as.arizona.edu
Multiple Mirror Telescope Observatory     Tel   (602) 621-5185
Univ. of Arizona, Tucson, AZ 85721        Fax   (602) 670-5740
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bdr@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (brian.d.reed)
Subject: Raised panels
Keywords: Raised, panels
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 00:22:15 GMT

I've already made a couple of raised panel doors--didn't do too
bad for only my second project.  These have been using 2"
wide rails and stiles frames--and yes, I did use that huge
propeller bit.

I want to make some arched ones now, but how do you figure out 
the width and curvature of the raised part?  I have different
width doors, so does that affect the curve?

I have a couple of doors only 6" wide--what's the best way to
do those?  One idea I had was to make the rails and stiles
(still 2") and put a flat board in it.

Thanks,

 Brian D. Reed    bdr@cbnewsg.cb.att.com   

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: obrien@serum.clpd.Kodak.Com (John O'Brien (x37279))
Subject: Re: Biscuit Joiners
Reply-To: obrien@serum.kodak.com
Organization: Eastman Kodak Company - Clinical Products Division
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 14:00:25 GMT

In article <1992Oct5.143559.16408@cliff.se.hou.compaq.com>, markv@lugh.se.hou.compaq.com (Mark Vaughan) writes:
|> I'm sorry if this borders on a FAQ, but I am looking for one of these, and
|> would like to get opinions from present owners.  I'm specifically looking at
|> the Skil 1605-02, the Freud JS100, and the Ryobi JM100.  Also, if there is a 
|> review of said joiners in one of the mags, please let me know, but don't let
|> that stop you from commenting :-).  If there is enough interest, I'll post.
|> 
|> Thanks,
|> Mark
|> 
|> 
|> % Mark Vaughan     	      Anything I do of value belongs to my employer. %
|> % (markv@lugh.compaq.com)     Everything else (such as opinions) I get to    %
|> % Compaq Computer Corp.	      keep.  It's all in the contract.		     %

Mark,
I own the Freud js100 and think it is a good, heavy duty piece of
equipment. Good value for the money. My only complaint is that the
blade leaves a burr on one edge of the cut. Don't know if this is a
common problem with all manufacturers or just the freud.

John
From: rdc@world.std.com (Ralph D Clifford)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Miscellaneous Questions...
Date: 4 Oct 92 14:53:47 GMT
Article-I.D.: world.BvLqpo.L71
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA

In article <1992Oct2.163519.25316@informix.com> davek@informix.com (David Kosenko) writes:
>In article <8090013@hpfcdc.fc.hp.com> rer@hpfcdc.fc.hp.com (Rob Robason) writes:
>>I have a few general questions:
>>
>>1) Norm (NYWS) uses a combo phillips driver/countersink, apparently
>>    slipping the countersink over the hex phillips driver.  This is a
>>    really slick tool that I've looked for in my local stores to no
>>    avail.  Anyone have any ideas about where to get this?
>
>ON a This Old House episode, Steve and Norm were in the NYW putting something
>or else together for the project, and Norm whipped out that little gadget.
>Steve says something along the lines of `that's pretty slick, where can I get
>one,' to which Norm explains that a fan of the show sent it to him, and that
>he hasn't seen one anywhere himself.  This was from an older season, so
>something similar may be on the market by now (I haven't seen one).
>
>Dave

     I got one of these gadgets at Trendlines in Watertown, MA about a year
ago.  You might check their catalog to see if they still carry them.


-- 
Ralph Clifford
From: wilkr@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (richard wilk)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Expanding Collet Chuck for Lathe
Summary: Looking for sources of Lathe chuck
Keywords: lathes, chucks, help!
Date: 29 Sep 92 21:15:49 GMT
Article-I.D.: usenet.BvCz2E.1yp
Distribution: na
Organization: Indiana University

I am a beginner on the wood lathe, and have been reading every
book I can get my hands on. I have a 3-jaw chuck and a couple
of faceplates, but am unhappy with the limitations of the
3-jaw for faceplate work. It either puts indentations in the
foot of the piece, or it requires too large an indentation in
the base. Sometimes it lets go on softer woods, and I don't like
getting bopped in the face with my bowl - even with a face guard
which I wear religiously.

In all of Richard Raffan's books, and many of the others
I have, the optimum chuck seems to be the collet (sp?) chuck,
with a ring that clamps effectively with a narrow indentation
in the base of the workpiece. I have looked in every catalog
I can find - including woodturners' supply in Utah, which
seems to have a lot of expensive stuff, including a cole
chuck that runs more than $200 for the whole set.

What I want to know is, where the %$&^#@ can I buy
this miracle collet chuck which the books say will solve
my problems? And can it be had for less than a prince's
ransom?


-- 
Richard Wilk                             Anthropology Dept.
wilkr@iubacs                             Indiana University
voice 812-855-8162                       Bloomington, IN 47405
"Things are more like they are now than they've ever been before."
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: Routers for router table : Opinions Wanted
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 21:02:27 GMT

Mark Alexander writes
> I recall a Wood magazine article from a couple of years ago that
> mentioned Freud and Ryobi plunge routers being suitable for tables,
> because they had a micro-depth-adjustment-knob-thingie that could be
> reached easily from under the table.

The real criteria, IMHO, is that the plunge depth lever not be self-locking.
Porter-Cable and Bosch plunge routers in particular are unsuitable 
because of this - it means you have to have one hand pressing the lever
while the other turns the knob. However, the self locking mechanism is
great for hand-held use.

However, even if you don't have to hold the plunge lock lever you've 
still got to twirl that knob for all depth adjustments. If you've got 
a big depth adjustment to make prepare for a lot of twirling...

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
"And remember this - there's no more important safety rule than to wear
these: safety glasses."
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: need advice on shaper
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 21:08:01 GMT

Eric Brown writes
> Do you have a good table saw?  If so, then you don't need a shaper at all.
> You can make perfectly good tongue and groove joints with a dado head...

A molding head cutter is even simpler.


> WRT shapers: if you do decide to use a shaper, consider the weight to be an
> asset rather than a liability.  Shapers tend to vibrate a lot, which is
> annoying and can produce a poor cut.  The mass of a heavier shaper tends to
> dampen vibration.

I believe that it's better to eliminate vibration by having dynamically 
balanced parts than to dampen vibration by brute force (weight). If you've 
driven a car where the front wheels aren't properly balanced, you know what 
adding an ounce or so on the rim of a many pound car wheel can do to the
car's ride.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
"And remember this - there's no more important safety rule than to wear
these: safety glasses."
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: summary: benchtop jointers: opinions wanted
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 21:52:27 GMT

John Wack writes
>... The Ryobi's RPMs
> go up to 32000, resulting in a very smooth cut - most other jointers,
> including free-standing, are 16-18000 RPMs.

Your specs are wrong:

1) The Ryobi's cutterhead spins at 8,000 to 16,000 RPM. It has two cutters,
   which results in a range of 16,000 to 32,000 cpm (cuts per minute).
2) Most other jointers run between 4500 and 6000 RPMs. They have between
   2 & 4 cutterheads, resulting in a cpm range of 9,000 to 24,000.

Note that if your jointer has a lower cpm, all you need to do is slow
down your rate of feed to get an equivalent finish.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
"And remember this - there's no more important safety rule than to wear
these: safety glasses."
From: asie714@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (James Q. Foster)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Antique Nail Heads
Keywords: nails antiques furniture refinishing
Date: 28 Sep 92 14:58:47 GMT
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin, Austin TX

I had been trying for some time unsuccessfully to get a
recessed lock out of an antique Victrola door to repair it.
Someone on the net mentioned a technique of heating a screw
with a soldering gun to make it easier to remove. This worked
great on the lock. It might work on your nails. Just heat a
nail, let it cool, and then try to pull it out.

Jim
From: rcbi27@marshall.wvnet.edu (DBRUM)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Hitachi planers--any good?
Date: 29 Sep 92 23:05:29 GMT
Organization: Marshall University

Has anybody got any info on the Hitachi portable thickness planer? I've
only seen pictures of it in the magazine adds. It costs *alot* more than
the comparable planers on the market, almost 2x as much as some. Question:
are they worth it? And, if so, why?

(I already own a Hitachi 10" power mitre saw, and have been very pleased
with it in all ways :-)

Thanks, danny
-- 
	"Were his solid black square paintings really,
	as the artist claimed, simply neutral, abstract
	compositions devoid of external references and
	meanings?" ***********************************
From: erickson@atlas.cs.nps.navy.mil (David Erickson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: printer's saw
Date: 28 Sep 92 19:58:45 GMT
Reply-To: erickson@taurus.cs.nps.navy.mil (David Erickson)
Distribution: na
Organization: Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey CA

Last weekend I bought the top (only) from a Hammonds printer's saw at a
garage sale.  I believe it is called a "trim-o-saw". It is very heavy
(~125 pounds), and has a sliding table that runs on some kind of linear
ball bearings & is very precise.  I guess that printers used saws like
this to trim hardwood printing blocks.

Anyhow, I've been thinking about uses for it, and came up with the following
idea, which I would like opinions/suggestions in regards to:

Mount a router above the table, with the axis parallel to the table and
perpendicular to the sliding table.



	\-----------------\----------\
	 \                 \          \
	  \                 \----------\
	   \                 \          \ <- trap door that hinges upwards
	    \ sliding table   \ fixed    \   (or can be removed)
	     \                 \----------\
	      \                 \          \
	       \                 \          \
	        \-----------------\----------\


	                    |\
	                    | \
	                    |  \
	                    |   \
	       this         |    \
	       mounts       |     \
	       on the        \     \_
	       fixed table    \  o  \) <- router
	                       \     \
	                        \     |
	                         \    |
	                          \   |
	                           \  |
	                            \ |
	                             \|

The router would be mounted on some kind of height-adjustable track.

I could use it for sliding dovetails, cutting precise grooves, etc., but I 
need to figure out a way to mount the router and position it.  

Could an Incra-set be adapted/canibalized/modified for positioning?  What 
about one of the Harbor Freight cross-feed vises?

-Dave Erickson
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: fleming@blitzen.SanDiego.NCR.COM (Joe Fleming)
Subject: Re: Routers for router table : Opinions Wanted
Reply-To: fleming@blitzen.SanDiego.NCR.COM (Joe Fleming)
Organization: NCR Corporation, Rancho Bernardo
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 15:40:44 GMT

In article <1992Sep28.210227.12295@adobe.com> bennett@adobe.com writes:
>Mark Alexander writes
>> I recall a Wood magazine article from a couple of years ago that
>> mentioned Freud and Ryobi plunge routers being suitable for tables,
>> because they had a micro-depth-adjustment-knob-thingie that could be
>> reached easily from under the table.
>
>However, even if you don't have to hold the plunge lock lever you've 
>still got to twirl that knob for all depth adjustments. If you've got 
>a big depth adjustment to make prepare for a lot of twirling...
>
>- Bennett Leeds

I have the Freud router and recently made a simple router table based on
Spellman's Router book.  Yes, you do have to twist the adjustment knob to
raise and lower the collet, but it is not that big of a deal.  My table has a
removal mounting plate so that I can set the router upright for bit changing.

Joe Fleming