HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: michal+@cs.cmu.edu (Michal Prussak)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Seal for gas leak?
Date: 30 Sep 92 14:30:49 GMT
Organization: School of Computer Science, Carnegie Mellon

In article <92274.013639QXF1@psuvm.psu.edu> QXF1@psuvm.psu.edu writes:
>I got a leak somewhere on my 82 Civic fuel filler pipe beause of rust.  I
>was asked ~$120 by dealer for replacement, about 1/6 of the total car price.

Hmmm, you value your car quite a lot!

I got a filler pipe for '79 Accord from a junkyard for around $35.
It didn't quite fit, because they sold me a pipe from '80 Accord,
so you better watch out for this. The shape of the pipe was the same,
but the bolts were arranged slightly differently.

I don't think that fixing your rusted pipe is a good idea - you will
get pieces of rust into your carburator, and then a carb rebuild will
be in order. In fact, I would recommend to change the pipe and the
fuel filter immediately, and flush the gas tank off any rust that may
have collected there. When you take off the fuel filter and flush it,
you will be able to see if you have any rust in your fuel system. If
you don't, then maybe flushing the tank won't be necessary?

Of course, before you do any of this, make sure that the leak is really
due to rust. I found that the gas tank on '79 Accords rusts through
fairly easily, but the pipe stays solid.

Michal
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: terryg@stortek.com (terry gottehrer)
Subject: Four Wheel Drive Vehicles
Organization: StorageTek
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 18:57:54 GMT


I'm in the market to buy a 4-wheel drive vehicle. This will mostly be a commuting
vehicle. I already own a 2-wheel drive truck, so I am looking for something
along the lines of a Bronco II, an S-10 Blazer, or a Jeep Cherokee. I am looking 
for something used, preferably under 4 years old. 
 
Can anybody out there tell me about their experiences, good and bad, with any
of the above-mentioned vehicles? Any recommendations? All the input you offer
is greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Terry

--
Terry_Gottehrer@stortek.com
Louisville, CO (by Boulder,Longmont,Denver)
(303)673-4943
Date: Fri,  2 Oct 92 11:24:08 MDT
From: earlyd@newt.ee.byu.edu (David Early)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Distribution: world
Organization: Brigham Young University, Provo UT USA
Subject: Speaking of spark plugs... 



What about the 'Splitfire' plugs?

They have been advertised heavily here lately

Anybody know if their claims are mere snake oil?


Dave Early
From: jburrill@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com (Jim Burrill)
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 17:47:20 GMT
Subject: Re: 1981 Buick Front Disc Brake Problem
Organization: Hewlett Packard - Boise, ID
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

/ hpdmd48:rec.autos.tech / ajnash@mcnc.org (A.J.Nash) /  7:01 pm  Sep 17, 1992 /
A.J.Nash needs the ATTENTION BRAKE SPECIALIST

>HELP PLEASE!!

>The problem and the facts:

>The right front pad wears out before the left pad. The left pad will have
>approximately 40% usable lining when the right one is almost totally gone.
>Car pulls to the right when under hard braking. New calipers and hoses have
>been installed. Rotors trued and resurfaced. Car pulls slightly to the right
>while driving. No alignment problem. When front of car is jacked up left
>wheel will turn more freely than right but right wheel seems to freewheel 
>what I think would be termed as a normal amount. No visible signs of fluid
>leaking and master cylinder resevoir is always full to capacity. Lines have
>been bled properly. Tires are inflated to 32 psi. Buick LeSabre 307 Y V8
>engine. Approximately 128,000 miles. None of my attempts to rectify the
>problem has had any noticeable effect.

>Surely someone has the solution, other than junking the car, which they're
>willing to share.

>Thanks,

>AJ

You don't mention if you have swapped tires on the front or not. A friend of
mine who is a mechanic always used to sell tires too. He would see brand new
tires cause a car to pull to one side or the other. Sometimes exchange of 
Front left and front right tires would cure the problem. Even if the tires 
are inflated to the same amount. If the pull follows the tire, then swap that
tire to the rear.

JB
From: speednut@werple.apana.org.au (Mark Jose)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Car storage
Date: 2 Oct 92 13:35:25 GMT
Organization: werple public-access UNIX, Melbourne


Original Message From: bakc@giraffe.ru.ac.za (MR KR COMAN)
Subject: Re: Car storage
 
> In article <1a9pdrINN27l@bigboote.WPI.EDU> walkerr@yaya.WPI.EDU
(Robert A Walker) writes:
> >From: walkerr@yaya.WPI.EDU (Robert A Walker)
> >Subject: Re: Car storage
> >Date: 29 Sep 1992 14:32:27 GMT
> >
> >>Why do you store the car on blocks?  What purpose does it serve?
> >
> >The reason you put it up on blocks is to save the tires.  A tire tha sits
> >around with a lot of weight on it tends to crack, with dry rot and all.
> >The tires are much safer sitting by themselves.
>
> Yep, up on blocks only needed if you're not up to removing the wheels.
> >
> >
> >>Something else you may wish to do to a stored car (read/heard from
somewhere, I
> >>don't remember where) is to take out all the plugs and squirt some
oil in each
> >>cylinder.  crank the engine for a few secs to allow the oil to coat
the cylinder
> >>walls, and then replace the plugs.
>
> Good idea.
>
> Another tip if the car is a manual is to half-engage the clutch using a
> block of wood as a wedge.  This will prevent the clutch plate rusting onto
> the flywheel -- this is especially so if you live in a damp climate.
 
That sounds handy but won't this put too much stress on the springs?
 
> If sub-zero temps are expected, drain the cooling system (inc heater).
 
I wouldn't recommend this. This will speed up the rate of rusting of the
block [Unless it is all alloy ?] as well as destroy the radiator. All the
insides of it will rust away. Better to install a rather rich mixture of
anti-freeze to the radiator and cover it with a thick blanket.
 
Cheers,
Mark.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sukenick@sci.ccny.cuny.edu (SYG)
Subject: Re: Threshold braking
Organization: City College of New York - Science Computing Facility
Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1992 19:44:07 GMT

>Remember, braking earlier and lighter also increase the *time* during
>which your forward motion is converted into heat.  The peak temperature
>on your drums and/or discs will be correspondingly higher, even on the
>street.  Thus drum brakes fade, and discs warp.

That doesn't sound right.
When you brake, are converting the energy of movement of your car to heat.
If you brake fast, the amount of energy is being converted  at a faster
rate, and peak temperatures should be higher on the rotors/drums.

If you brake slow, less energy is being converted at a given time,
there is more of a chance for the heat to dissipate, and thus the
peak temperature should be lower.  The rotors/drums will stay at
a higher temp for a longer time, but should not experience 
temps as high as when stomping on the brakes.

There is a constant input of energy from the idle speed of the engine
which would bring temps up when braking slowly, but I would
think that this effect shouild become important  at low speeds.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mbeaving@bnr.ca (Michael Beavington)
Subject: What is the air pump used for?
Reply-To: MBEAVING@BNR.CA
Organization: BNR Ottawa, DMS Software Design
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 13:20:17 GMT


Something that has been on my mind is the use of the air pump.
What is it's purpose?  Is it to supply air to the catalytic
convertor to clean up the exhaust?  Is it used to increase the
volume of air coming out the tailpipe so that the parts per million
of gunk is more dilute?  Who knows?

Signed,

  Catalytically-confused.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: AIR pumps
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 26 Sep 92 10:01:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


->      I am trying to find out the reasons that
-> pre-catalytic converter cars in this country have
-> AIR pumps.

 Most carbs were set rich for enhanced starting and driveability.  The
air injection reduced HC by promoting afterburn.
                                                                                                                               
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: iseman@ravel.udel.edu (Stephen Early)
Subject: Re: PTFE (Teflon) Additives
Organization: University of Delaware
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 17:05:24 GMT

In article <o9kqRB4w165w@hale.cts.com> system@hale.cts.com (System Administration) writes:
>I'm sure this must have been discussed somewhere before, but I didn't see 
>it...
>
>What is the general informed attitude towards Teflon (A registered 
>trademark of the DuPont Corperation, DuPont is a registered trademard of 
>the DuPont Corperation also.  I bet Trademarks has been trademarked 
>somewhere also, but....) additives?

Oh god, please don't rehash this thread.

Steve 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: johnc@yuma.ACNS.ColoState.EDU (John Cooley)
Subject: Re: Chevy 454's
Summary:  Some are better than others
Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1992 17:57:39 GMT
Distribution: n
Organization: Colorado State University, Fort Collins, CO  80523
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech

In article <1992Oct1.134844.3528@usl.edu> dfs5716@usl.edu (Seidel Daniel F) 
writes:

>   Does anyone out there in net-land know what the "normal" output of the 
>Chevy 454 is?  And while I am one the subject any information on the 
>available street power that one may expect to reliably extract from this 
>engine.  (Gee hope that this isn't a FAQ ... oh well).
>              Thanks! 

This poster needs to use his carriage return instead of allowing his text
processor to auto-wrap.  My newsreader managed to capture it all, but that
may not be universally true.  I embedded hard carriage returns before posting
this follow-up.

Paraphrasing from Animal Farm:  Some 454's are more equal than others.  Some
variants appeared in the early 70's with gross horsepower ratings in excess of
400.  Chevrolet big-blocks have been used in performance cars, family wagons,
and light trucks (up to, and including, current use in 1-ton  "light" trucks
with a 15,000 lb. GVWR).  They've also appeared in medium-duty trucks (C-60,
etc.) and motor homes.

Some 454's have four-bolt main bearing caps, with either cast or forged
cranks.  Many, however, have two-bolt caps and cast cranks.  

The current 454 as it appears in Chevrolet light trucks is rated at 230 net
horsepower and 385 lb-ft of torque.  Induction is throttle-body fuel
injection.  The light-duty 2WD 1/2 ton pickup with the 454 is rated at 255 hp.

A moderate build-up of a 70's vintage 4-bolt 454 with a 4-barrel carburetor
should yield something over 300 reasonably reliable horsepower.  Higher
numbers are certainly possible, but the horsepower value bears an inverse
relationship to reliability, in general.  Also, without dynamometer tests
of specific engines, people tend to make exaggerated claims for built
big blocks.

        John Cooley
From: rdi@cci632.cci.com (Rick Inzero)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: SAE horsepower ratings
Summary: Here's actual measured comparison specs
Date: 29 Sep 92 17:08:28 GMT
Reply-To: rdi@ccird3.UUCP (Rick Inzero)
Distribution: na
Organization: CCI, Communications Systems Division, Rochester, NY

In article <Bv1F0K.sn@news.cso.uiuc.edu> sabg2063@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Scott A. Butzin) writes:
>v087mxgb@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (Shawn E Thompson) writes:
>
>>In article <1992Sep21.124252.812@mwhhlaw.uucp>, jim@mwhhlaw (James P. Cavanaugh III) writes...
>>>	3.  Is there rule of thumb conversion factor between the two?   
>
>... I would say that you could deduct at least 10%
>from gross power to get a rough idea.
>
>

Horsepower (Gross vs. SAE net): ACTUAL EXAMPLES.

While sorting through some old stuff, I ran across a small (11x18)
advertising poster of a 1971 Nova.  It was printed in January 1971 by the 
Chevy Division of GMC.  On the back, it had a wealth of typical advertising 
info concerning features available.  It detailed the engines available, and 
specified their rated horsepower in *BOTH* "Gross" and "SAE net" methods of 
measurement!  Here is this info from that table:

	     (Available for a 1971 Chevy Nova:)

	   Engines          Gross hp     SAE net hp
	250-cu.-in. Six       145           110
	307-cu.-in. V8        200           140
	350-cu.-in. V8        245           165
	350-cu.-in. V8        270           210

Naturally, you can draw your own conclusions; I'm merely presenting this info
because I found it very interesting.  All other text on the page always
used the Gross horsepower rating whenever referring to the engines.
(Checking my 1970 Nova owner's manual, it gives only Gross horsepower, and
never mentions SAE net.)  It appears 1971 is the "crossover" year 
for the 2 systems of horsepower measurement for Chevy.

Can anyone else provide similar documented examples from the same era?

---
Rick Inzero, President of the "Put The High Beam Switch Back On The Damn 
				Floor, Where It Belongs Society"
						rochester!cci632!rdi
Computer Consoles Inc. (CCI)			uunet!ccicpg!cci632!rdi
Rochester, NY					rdi@cci.com

"He who has the most mass wins."  -Theodore Chen
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ravalent@rodan.acs.syr.edu (Bob Valentine)
Subject: Re: DOHC on a V8 possible?
Organization: Syracuse University
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 92 19:03:23 EDT

In article <ck0XRB1w165w@hale.cts.com> vreality@hale.cts.com (Vreality) writes:
>In<6271@m1.cs.man.ac.uk>,phl@fiveg.icl.co.uk ( Peter H Liyanage)writes:
>>uh huh, but the 302 has lots of torque everywhere.
>>peak hp ain't the whole story.

>(designed by Mazda). We were discussing V8's. Ford currently plans to put 
>the same pushrod V8 into the 1995 Mustang. I suppose it will still have 
>that same 60's live axle too?!?

Ever care to notice that most of the higher-performance cars ARE 
rear-wheel drive/ live axle?  And there's NOTHING wrong with a pushrod
V-8, though it is lo-tech.  Now only if Ford would put in a 351w or
the new 4.6 "modular" motor.  Now that would be a 'stang!

>HALE TELECOMMUNICATIONS - Public Access Node, San Diego CA 619/660-6734 HST
>vreality@hale.cts.com (Vreality)   30-Sep-92 at 10:18p
>
>***SAVE A NATION-- KILL A LIBERAL***

    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 
 Just keep in mind is was probably some liberal that was responsible
for YOUR public access to the 'net.

--> Bob
From: crmeyer@voodoo.physics.ucsb.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Opinions on Ford V8-460 engine?
Date: 27 Sep 92 15:54:13 GMT
Organization: UCSB Physics Department

I have been on the prowl for a used pick-up truck for general use and for
towing my Jeep CJ. I have come across a '75 Ford F250 with a 460 cu in
V8 and a C6 automatic trans; both of which have been completely rebuilt
recently. Any comments on the 460 engine (good, bad, indifferent)?



                      +-----------------------------------+                    
                      |         Charles R. Meyer          |                    
                      |                                   |                    
                      | Internet: crmeyer@voodoo.ucsb.edu |                    
                      | Bitnet:   crmeyer@voodoo          |                    
                      | HEPnet:   voodoo::crmeyer         |                    
                      +-----------------------------------+                    

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: donald@sq.sq.com (Donald Teed)
Subject: Fuel Injection maintenance intervals
Organization: SoftQuad Inc., Toronto, Canada
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 92 19:44:23 GMT


I have a Mazda B2200 pickup truck that has fuel injection.
Being the first year that this is being produced for this
model the maintenance schedule does not have anything listed
about the injectors at all and I think that they may have missed
getting this in their documentation.  Their product features sheet
did not specify that this model was available with fuel injection.

What is normally done with regard to maintenance or preventative
maintenance in fuel injection systems?  I'd ask the dealer except
I would be given an answer that would likely be biased.  This is the
first vehicle I have owned with fuel injection.  I have
used STP or other injector cleaners in my fuel periodically.

--Donald Teed
From: wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Time of the day and Filling up
Date: 6 Oct 92 18:03:15 GMT
Organization: Hewlett Packard - Boise, ID

So does that mean that if you fill it up to the cap, drive a couple
of blocks and shut it off for the day, then you could come back to 
a dripping car and your fuel recovery/ventilation system is saturated?

Wes Fujii

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Wes Fujii               *           JAPANESE BUSINESS MOTTO           *
* Boise, Idaho            *        You can buy anything you want        *
* wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com *             with a lot of money             *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: atovorni@engr.UVic.CA (Andreas  Tovornik)
Subject: Re: Cold = Super braking power??
Reply-To: atovorni@engr.UVic.CA
Organization: University of Victoria, Victoria, BC, Canada
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 92 21:23:06 GMT

In article FoI@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu, msingh@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (The Supreme Commander) writes:
>
>>>My brand new Mazda 626 has an interesting problem. Whenever the engine
>>>is cold, I seem to have super braking power. The lightest touch brings
>>>the car to a halt. That's fine, except when the engine warms up, the
>>>brakes are noticeably weaker.
>>
>>Looks like fading Japanese brakes to me.
>
>>If you are generally hard on your brakes, this is probably normal.
>
>
>Well I'm actually very easy on the brakes, plus the car only has 600
>miles on it! I also noticed just this morning that the brakes squeal a
>little the very first time they are applied. (Again, when the engine
>is cold.

Oh. Ummmm, have you read your owner's manual? Usually, there is a break-in
period for the brakes as well as all mechanical parts. Are the brakes 
power assisted by vacuum? Maybe there is a bit of a vacuum leak someplace
that only leaks when things heat up. It could be due to the expansion of
a rubber hose, or a loose clamp around an expanding rubber hose, etc...

Andy.

PLEASE EXCUSE MY OBVIOUS IGNORANCE.
From: neal@cmptrc.lonestar.org (Neal Howard)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Mixing Synthetic & Mineral
Date: 5 Oct 92 05:16:40 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: CompuTrac Inc., Richardson TX

>>> My manual recommends 5W30 oil, but accepts 10W30 or straight 30 weight.
>>> I'd like to use some Castrol Synthetic, but that's 5W50.
>>>
>>> If I mixed 2qt 5W50 Synthetic with 2 qt straight 10 weight,
>>> would the mixture be 7.5W30 and suitable for my engine?
>>	There is no reason why you can use just straight 5W50 synthetic.
>>	Given its 5W50 rating, it should have viscosity properites equal
>>	to or better then 5W30, 10W30, or staight 30 weight.
>
>For extended highway driving, wouldn't the viscosity be too thick
>(50 rather than 30)?

There are synthetics available in 5w30 and 10w30. I tried some 15w50 Mobil-1
in a late model GM engine that the owners manual said not to use anything over
30w (i.e. must have the new EnergyConserving II rating). The result was a loss
of a few highway MPG and less passing power at highway speeds. After 1k miles,
I went back to petroleum based 10w30 and power and mileage were restored. After
experimenting with synthetic oils in several cars and my motorcycle I've come
to the conclusion that the synthetics only really have significant benefit in 
late model small displacement engines that have a relatively short stroke (as 
compared with, say a 350 chevy V8) and that run at very high temperatures. My
Nissan 240SX ('90 model, 3valve per cylinder version) did benefit from using
Mobile-1 due to that it ran hot enough to turn petro-based oil dark very 
quickly. My Harley will have only Harley oil from now on. My '92 GMC pickup
will have good old fashioned Pennzoil/Q-State/Havoline or whatever is on sale
and get changed every 2.5 to 3K miles.... Since 2 oil changes with these
petro-based oils costs the same as 1 with synthetic oil, I think the engine
will perform better and last longer with that regimen instead of going synthetic
and that'll also keep the inside of the engine cleaner over the years too.
<--------------------------------------------------------------------->
< Neal Howard                         | '91 Harley Sportster XLH-1200 >
< email: neal@cmptrc.lonestar.org     | DoD # 686                     >
< CompuTrac, Inc. (Richardson, TX)    | '69 Cougar XR7-GT390          >
<--------------------------------------------------------------------->
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: Calling F-body Suspension experts
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 12:25:57 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 The "jacking" you refer to is the axle's reaction to the torque coming
in from the driveshaft. You have to keep the right rear from coming up,
as you say. Some folks use a special air bag insert on the right side
which is pressurized when they're at the strip, basically hardening up
the right side suspension. Deflating it lets you have a normal ride
quality at other times.

 Traction bars are commonly used, cheap and can be effective, especially
for the money. A recent Car Craft had an article about setting them up
right. They're an easy install and eliminate or reduce wheel hop as
well as cutting the tendency to lift. On the minus side they reduce
ground clearance. The fact that they're plainly visible from the side 
may be a plus or a minus depending on your viewpoint.

 What you need most, though, is a rear end with some sort of positive
traction scheme. You want to leave two stripes, not one. 
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dbowman@shade (Don A. Bowman)
Subject: Thermostat in '90 Tercel
Organization: University of Waterloo
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 13:13:19 GMT


I have kind of an open question for those inclined to read:

My mother purchases her '90 Tercel in October '90 (new). She also purchasesed
the extended warranty, etc, etc, etc.

She now has 90 000Km on it.

Ever since she bought the car, it took a VERY long time to warm up (18-40
km of driving, even in summer weather). She complained about this to the
dealer at most services (she religiously had them maintain it, change the
oil, etc,etc,etc to protect her extended warranty).

Well, this time she complained to the -mechanic- at Toyota. He found the
thermostat was stuck open, and replaced it free of charge.
Now the car warms up within 1 minute of running.

My question: It is fairly obvious that the thermostat was defective from day
one. We live in a fairly cold climate, and in the winter the car would end up
being driven with under-temperature oil. Also, the water would be circulating
at all times. What sort of damage could be expected from under-temp oil?

(The car is like new -- no oil consumption, same gas mileage, same power, no
bearing rumble, etc, etc, etc)

Would any <potential> damage have already shown up? Or is the fact that the
car is like new indicating that no damage was done?

--
Don Bowman                (519) 744-6154     dbowman@zeus.uwaterloo.ca