From: aviator@athena.mit.edu (Joakim Karlsson)
Subject: Buying an Entry Level Mountain Bike (Revised - Long)
Keywords: entry level mountain bike
Organization: Flight Transportation Associates, Cambridge, MA
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 18:39:54 GMT

I thought I'd repost this since it's been a while, and I've revised
it considerably.  As usual, comments are encouraged.  In particular,
I could need some help with the tables of Shimano and Suntour component
groups.

Would whoever maintains the archive which has this article on it (Mike?)
update it accordingly?  Thanks...Joakim

--- CUT HERE ---

Buying an Entry Level Mountain Bike
-----------------------------------
by Joakim Karlsson (aviator@athena.mit.edu)


Introduction

What follows below are my personal thoughts on buying an entry
level mountain bike (mtb).  I felt compelled to write this since
I could not find one concise source of shopping advice when I set
out to buy my first mtb.  When I first ventured into a bicycle
store I was struck by the vast number of makes and models
available.  I've been told that there are over 850 models on the
market.  A quick look through Mountain Bike Action (MBA)
magazine's 1992 Buyer's Guide reveals more than 30 manufacturers
of entry level mtbs.  I was initially surprised to learn that
there are new models each year, just like in the car industry.

I wasn't quite sure how to narrow down the field to one bike, so
I decided a little bit of research was warranted.  Judging by the
number of netters asking about buying an entry level mtb, I
thought other prospective buyers could benefit if I shared my
results.

Out of approximately 10 million bikes sold annually, in 1991 51%
were mtbs, 25% road bikes, and 16% hybrid bikes (a compromise
between a road bike and a mountain bike).  That leaves 8% for
other types of bikes.  One would guess that entry level mtbs
constitute the largest share of overall mtb sales.  Hence, the
entry level mtb is probably the most commonly sold bike right
now.  Yet, when you look at magazines and other sources of
information, this segment seems to be neglected in favor of
mid-level and competition class mtbs.  I have yet to find a
magazine, for example, which caters to recreational mountain
biking.

About the author: I am by *no* means an expert on bicycles.  At
the time when I began writing this, I had owned my bike for less
than a month.  Even though I ride it practically every day the
weather and my schedule permit, almost exclusively off-road, I'm
by all accounts still a novice.  In short, I consider myself a
member of the average mtb consumer category.  I freely admit that
I'm affected by marketing and looks, but I try not to loose sight
of the more important issues.  In particular, I place heavy
emphasis on maximizing quality versus cost.  Finally, I'm
definitely a Type A, techie type...you've been forewarned.

Please keep remembering that everything in here represents my
personal opinion.  Mentally insert "in my opinion," in front of
every sentence if you have to...  Even when I write "you should",
it's still only a reflection of my personal feelings. 
Occasionally I quote outside references, in which case it's
someone else's opinion.  While I've used many sources, I retain
sole responsibility for any technical errors.

The Entry Level MTB

First off, I've only considered new stock bikes.  Used bikes are
available at good prices, but if you don't know how to detect
potential problems you could be wasting your money.  The October
1991 issue of Bicycling magazine has an article on shopping for
used bikes.  At the other extreme, mtbs can be custom made, but
not within what I would consider the entry level price range.

My definition of an entry level mtb was somewhat influenced by
cost concerns.  For me, the key was to define the price range
which would ensure high quality and suitability for a novice
rider, while not buying more bike than I could take advantage of. 
Initially I thought the $300-400 price range would be
appropriate, but as I learned of the compromises found in the
lower end of that range I upped it to $350-450.  I have been told
that the equivalent price range in Canada would be $500-650
(Canadian dollars that is).  Of course, I'm talking about regular
prices here; with a sale or discount you could get a great bike
for less.  These are all 1992 prices; I would expect an increase
for 1993.

Advice #1: Plan on spending at least $350 for a good quality
entry level mtb.  I don't think a novice rider would gain much by
spending more than $450 for an entry level bike.

There seem to be two general philosophies in buying an entry
level mtb: (1) Buy a cheapo bike and use it to figure out what
you really need/want, and then upgrade; (2) Buy a more expensive
bike since it will be better, last longer, and save money in the
long run.  In the end, I chose option (2), and decided to buy
into the $450 range instead of the $350 range.  However, this is
an individual choice, and some will wish to spend less than $350
or more than $450 on their first bike.

Riding Needs

Before you put down any money, think long and hard about why you
want to buy a mtb.  Are you going to commute, exercise, ride
recreationally, compete?  How often will you be riding?  Off-road
or on-road?  Gentle dirt roads or technical single-track?

Advice #2: Carefully evaluate your riding needs before buying.

You may revise your needs as you shop around and get more
acquainted to mtbs, especially if you haven't ridden mtbs much. 
If you've never been out on a trail before, go rent a bike and
take it off-road.  Off-road riding is a very different sensation
than on-road riding.  Try both hybrids and mtbs.

It seems popular to bash hybrid bikes these days.  MBA writes:
"We have never understood the hybrid market: To us they are just
other types of inexpensive mountain bikes that usually lose their
compatibility with either dirt or road environments as they
attempt to be efficient in both."  True, the hybrid represents a
compromise and is not as good on the trail as a mtb and not as
good on the road as a road bike.  However, for most non-competing
riders, I think they would be perfect.  They're more than
competent on both roads and trails.  They're ideal for commuting,
urban environments, and occasional trail riding.  My wife's
hybrid is certainly a lot more pleasant on the road than my
mountain bike, and we go off-road together.  There are a few
technical sections where she will get off and walk (mostly steep
climbs and descents), but that's mostly because she's a much more
sensible person than I am.  The counter-argument goes something
like this: Any bike can be ridden on a road, but you really need
a specially designed bike to ride on trails.

I'm only dealing with mtbs in this article - I just want to
comment that the hybrid bike is a great idea.  Make sure you
really want a mtb when maybe a hybrid would better suit your
needs.  If you're never going to leave the pavement, and don't
have to fight through an urban jungle, consider a road racing
bike or touring bike.  It's amazing how light and nimble they are
compared to a mountain bike.

References

Before shopping you may like to do some reading.  Try the
following:

Bicycle Guide 1992 Buyer's Guide, March 1992 [? - I don't have a
copy of this]

Bicycling 1992 Buyer's Guide, March 1992

Canadian Cyclist 1992 Buyer's Guide, May 1992 [don't have this
one either]

"Mountain Bicycles", Consumer Reports, October 1991, pp. 650-655
[also summarized in the 1992 annual guide along with a rating of
bike helmets]

Mountain Bike Action 1992 Buyer's Guide, May 1992 [also has lots
of good articles on buying a mtb]

Richards' Ultimate Bicycle Book, by Richard Ballantine and
Richard Grant, 1992 [good introduction to bicycles in general,
with fabulous illustrations]

The faq (frequently asked questions) file for rec.bicycles.*
contains addresses of magazines and listings of books to read. 
The file itself is a useful reference, and it also points to
other files.

Note about Consumer Reports: Occasionally I hear complaints about
Consumer Reports' reviews of bicycles and accessories (they've
only done three in recent years - one each for mtbs, hybrids, and
helmets).  True, they're not going to have the expertise of an
experienced bicyclist, a bike mechanic, or a dealer.  Sometimes
they tend to emphasize features which are trivial to modify (e.g.
saddle comfort), while neglecting more important issues.  On the
other hand, I think they do a reasonable job in representing the
needs of the average consumer.  Also, it is one of the few
sources that contains a comparative description of many bikes,
complete with ratings.  My greatest complaint with their mountain
bike report is that they did not compare entirely equivalent
bikes from a price/performance perspective.  As a final note, be
aware that the Consumer Reports ratings weigh on-road performance
heavily.  This is because the average consumer's mtb never gets
used on trails...

Advice #3: Read as much about mountain bikes as you can lay your
hands on.  It will make you a more informed buyer.

One good reason to read about mtbs is that you will learn the
jargon and actually be able to understand what the dealer is
saying.  It helps to be familiar with mtb nomenclature.  In fact,
sections of this article will be difficult to appreciate without
this knowledge.  The March 1992 issue of Bicycling Magazine and
Richards' Ultimate Bicycle Book have a great picture which shows
the anatomy and nomenclature.  It would be nearly impossible to
convey the same information in words.

When you're talking to dealers, ask whenever they use jargon
you're not familiar with.  I sometimes pretend to know less than
I do, just to hear what they will say.

Shopping

Visit many many many bike stores.  The quality of the store is
important for a number of reasons.  Bikes arrive at the store in
boxes and require assembly.  The quality of initial assembly will
greatly affect the overall quality of the bike.  Proper assembly
requires skill, training, and experience.  More importantly,
quality assembly takes time, which represents a cost to the
store.  Hence, the $429 bike assembled quickly may not be a
better deal than the same bike for $449 assembled with tender
loving care.

Good service is also important - you want to feel comfortable
about going back to the store for minor adjustments, questions,
and regular maintenance.  Check on the store's maintenance
policy.  You should get at least one free tune-up a few months
after buying and possibly a free overhaul after a year.  Allowing
you to watch the maintenance process and letting you learn from
it is a nice touch.

To judge quality of assembly, ask people who are familiar with
the store you're shopping at.  The March 1991 issue of Bicycling
magazine contains a checklist of 23 items to check for in a new
bike.  A basic check is to ensure that the wheels are true (a
quick and dirty test is to spin the wheels to detect any
noticeable wobble).  Look out for play in the headset and
crankset (there shouldn't be any).  Braking should be crisp, with
little lever travel required to achieve lock-up.  Brake shoes
should touch the rim at the same time, and should be toed in
(front part of shoe should be a tiny bit closer to the rim than
the rear).  Properly adjusted brakes should not squeak.

Shifting should also be crisp, with none of the scraping noise
associated with the chain touching the front derailleur cage,
except at the extreme cross-shifting range (i.e. smallest front
chainring with smallest rear sprocket; or, largest front
chainring with largest rear sprocket).  Shifting problems are
normally adjustable, but it could also be a sign of the frame not
being perfectly straight (I have been told that entry-level
Suntour components are susceptible to frame alignment).

Look for evidence of use such as dirt around the bottom bracket
and paint scratches.  Inspect the chain stays for scratches
resulting from chain suck.  Other areas prone to damage include
the drop-outs and the cranks.  If you are buying a bike from the
floor display it will probably have been subjected to test rides. 
This is to be expected, but the bike shouldn't be worn, damaged,
or excessively dirty.

Just talking to the store workers helps give you a feel for the
quality of the store.  Whenever I talk to a new store person I
ask what bike(s) they ride, even though they're usually not entry
level bikes.  If they don't ride mtbs you may want to talk to a
different person...  A worker concerned about how the bike fits
you is a good sign.  I'm a strong believer in customer relations,
and I'm willing to pay for good service.  The one store that
really impressed me in this respect is Poulin Cycles in Augusta,
Maine (although I haven't spent a penny there).

Try many bike models.  Within a given price range, the quality
between different manufacturers does not seem to vary all that
much.  Given that the bike meets your riding needs, the most
important criteria should be general fit and level of comfort. 
It can take a while to notice differences in frame geometry and
components, which is why you should ride many bikes.  Also, once
you've narrowed down your choice to a few candidates, ride each
of them several times.  It helps going to a big store with a
large selection since you can do side-by-side comparisons of many
models there.

I had a hard time deciding how much money to spend.  With so many
models, and prices ranging from a few hundred to a few thousand
dollars, it was difficult to peg the right price range.  Try
this: Ride some bikes you think would be in the right price range
for you.  Then ask to ride a cheaper bike as well as a more
expensive one, to see what the differences are.  You won't be
able to notice all the differences (like improved durability),
but this should help you visualize what you get for your money.

Most likely you will be test riding in the dealer's parking lot. 
This is a poor substitute for a rough trail ("gnarly single-
track" in mtb lingo).  Try to at least to ride the bike over
grass - see what the dealer will let you get away with.  Before
buying a bike, see if you can do an extended ride.  Fifteen to
twenty minutes should give the bike a good work-out.  Be a
responsible consumer - unless you're paying for the bike, don't
do anything to it that you wouldn't want done to your brand new
mtb.

I'm not going to discuss how to find the right size or fit.  It's
vital that you find a bike which fits you, or you will end up
either in pain or not riding your bike.  The MBA 1992 Buyer's
Guide has a good article on this.  Apparently, one of the most
common mistakes made by the first time mtb shopper is selecting a
frame which is too large.  You should have at least three inches
of clearance between your crotch and the top tube when straddling
the bike with your feet on the floor.  Also, make sure the saddle
height is set properly when test riding the bikes - a common
mistake is to set it too low.

You'll often find that the right sized frame is not available on
the floor when you go shopping.  Don't test ride a different
size, it will be completely different.  If you do have to ride a
different size, go for the next smaller size.  The best thing to
do is to call the store in advance and ask them to build up the
bikes you want to test in the right size (this might take a few
days).  This is perfectly normal, and you should not in any way
feel compelled to purchase a bike because you've made the store
assemble it for you.

There are actually different ways of measuring size.  The two
most common ways are: (1) measuring along the seat tube, from the
center of the bottom bracket spindle (i.e. pedal axle) to the
center of the top tube; or (2) measuring along the seat tube,
from the center of the bottom bracket spindle to the top of the
seat tube.  The latter measurement is always greater than the
former, the difference being half an inch or so.  Even if two
bikes are measured the same, the size can be different, due to
variations in tube lengths and angles, as well as bottom bracket
height.  So...use frame size as a guide, and experiment with
larger and smaller sizes.

All manufacturers have brochures describing their bikes. 
Although they're products of the marketing departments, they
contain lots of useful information, so ask for them.  Bridgestone
in particular has a very nice catalog with valuable and
entertaining material.  You can buy it directly from Bridgestone
for $4 or get it free at your local dealer.

Advice #4: Visit many stores, ride many bikes, ride the final
candidates many times; always riding the right frame size.

Prices

My general experience has been that you get what you pay for. 
The more money you spend, the higher the quality and durability
will be.  However, as discussed earlier there is an upper and a
lower limit, depending on your riding needs and skills.  Also,
you don't *always* get a better bike because it costs more...ask
around.

Profit margins on bicycles tend to be low, but they are higher on
maintenance and accessories.  If the price of a bike seems too
good to be true, it might very well be.  If prices for the same
bike vary a lot between individual dealers, it may be an
indication of hasty assembly or other short-cuts at the lower
priced stores.  However, dealers are occasionally able to
discount certain bikes - an unusually low price is not always a
reason to be worried.  Also, you'll generally find lower prices
at stores with high sale volumes.

If there is a discrepancy in prices between two similar bikes
from different manufacturers, there might be compromises in the
design of the lower priced bike that you haven't noticed.  For
example, the Mongoose Hilltopper has better shifters/derailleurs
than many bikes in the same price range.  However, it uses lower
quality brakes and levers, and the stays are high-tensile steel
instead of chro-moly (chromium-molybdenum; an alloy of steel with
good weight and strength characteristics).  I'm not saying it's
not a good bike, but this is an example of the trade-offs
manufacturers will adopt to sell bikes.

Sometimes manufacturers misjudge the demand for a given model. 
If too many bikes are produced, they may get discounted, and you
could find a good deal on a high quality bike.

One way to get a good price is to buy left-over models from the
previous year.  There aren't all that many changes from one year
to another, so I see no reason not to buy a new bike from the
previous year.  You can compare the specifications printed in the
manufacturers brochures to determine changes from one year to
another.  The only problem is that you may not find the specific
model, size, or color you're looking for.  Sales on left-over
models begin in August, and peak during the fall.  Some left-
overs are available throughout the year at good prices.

Advice #5: Don't shop for price, shop for quality.  Price should
be one of many factors influencing your purchase, not the driving
one.

In their 1992 brochure, Bridgestone advises us to "shop for a
dealer, not a bike."  They also go on to say that a higher price
is a good sign.  When I bought my bike I got the lowest price I
could get at a dealer which seemed pretty professional.  Since
then however, I have had second thoughts about the dealer and I
won't go back there for maintenance or my next bike.  I should
have followed my own advice first.  Do as I say, not as I do.

Specifics to Look for in a Bike

As I mentioned earlier, what's most important is that you feel
comfortable on the bike.  This is such a subjective criterion
that it is difficult to say much about it.  The bike should feel
right, should ride smoothly, shift crisply, etc.  Try shifting
through all the gears and use the brakes to make a simulated
panic stop from a low to moderate speed.  Try to ride one bike
and then another one immediately afterwards; this helps
accentuate differences.  Try to ride the bike on a gravel or
grass surface (anything other than the parking lot).

Any competent bike design represents a trade-off between weight
and strength.  After you get involved with mountain biking for a
while, you'll become aware of the great lengths some people will
go to in order to shave off just a few grams (pass the titanium
bolts, please).  I keep hearing that weight makes a tremendous
difference in performance, which I have no reason to doubt. 
However, weight should not be much of a concern for the entry
level mtb shopper (well, I wouldn't recommend a high tensile
steel frame).  There simply isn't much of a difference in weight
among $350-450 bikes - they all weigh around 30 lbs.

There are two specific items which I think are "must haves" on
any mtb which is actually going to be used off-road.  The first
is a sealed bottom bracket.  The bottom bracket houses the crank
axle and associated bearings.  Since it's one of the lowest
points on the bike, and behind the front wheel, it gets dirt,
mud, and water all over it.  Having a sealed mechanism reduces
maintenance requirements.  In a similar vein, a sealed headset is
also nice, as the front wheel tends to throw mud up into the
bottom of the headset.  The second must-have item is replaceable
chainrings.  At the low end of the entry level mtb spectrum, some
bikes feature a one piece chainring and crankset assembly.  If
you damage one tooth on one chainring, you'll have to replace the
entire thing.  It makes much more sense to have chainrings which
can be replaced as necessary.  This is also important if you want
to change the gear ratios, although this can also be achieved by
changing the rear sprockets.

While we're talking about chainrings: A while ago Shimano
introduced oval chainrings, with the trade name "biopace".  The
claim was that biopace chainrings allow for a more efficient
transfer of power during the pedal stroke.  While some people
still swear by their biopace chainrings, and other complain of
knee pains when they switch to round chainrings, biopace has
generally been discounted as a Shimano marketing gimmick.  Many
riders refuse to ride with them, claiming it disrupts rhythm or
causes knee pain (sound familiar?).  In its November 1990 issue,
Bicycling magazine called biopace the worst bicycling invention,
based on a reader survey.  My bike has biopace chainrings, and
while I don't notice much of a difference, I'd rather not have
them.  In any case, they are still to be found on many entry-
level mtbs, so you should know what they are.

The Frame

The frame should preferably be chro-moly, which offers good
weight and strength properties for recreational off-road riding. 
For any mtb over $350, you can expect that at least the main
frame (triangle formed by the top tube, bottom tube, and seat
tube) will be chro-moly.  However, some will have high tensile
steel seat stays, chain stays, or forks.  This is normally
acceptable for the recreational rider - the stays in particular
should not cause any concern.  However, they will make your bike
slightly heavier and/or weaker.  It's not always obvious from the
manufacturer brochures if the entire frame is chro-moly or just
the main tubes, so make sure you check on this.

Standard chro-moly tubing has uniform thickness along the length
of the tube, whereas butted tubing has variable thickness. 
Butted tubes are thicker in high stress areas and thinner
elsewhere, allowing for a better strength to weight ratio.  A
double-butted tube has two gauges (i.e. thicknesses), a triple-
butted tube, has three, etc.  Heat treatment is another method
used to improve strength.  Heat treated butted chro-moly frames
seem to be standard for higher priced entry level mtbs.  Other
materials used on more expensive bikes include aluminum,
composites, and titanium.

Another issue is oversized tubing.  Larger diameters allow for
thinner tube walls, supposedly improving the strength to weight
ratio.  Oversized tubing also increases stiffness.  However, from
my readings it seems that this may be more of a marketing ploy,
especially when it comes to oversized forks.  It has been
suggested that the real issue here is to make the bike
practically unbreakable, presumably to limit liability and reduce
the number of frame warranty claims.  Certainly there are some
top notch bikes out there with standard tube and fork diameters. 
Bridgestone makes a good case against oversized tubing in their
1992 brochure.  Bicycle Guide had a much touted review of mid-
price ($850 range) mountain bikes in their October 1992 issue. 
The two bikes they liked the best were the two with relatively
standard tubing diameters (Bridgestone MB-3 and Specialized
Stumpjumper).

Finally, you should know that there are several different ways of
putting tubes together to form a frame.  Welding (various
techniques exit), fillet brazing, bonding, using lugged tubing,
etc.  Each method has its own advantages and disadvantages.  I
wouldn't be overly concerned about this issue, because at this
price level the quality of the workmanship is more important than
the technique used.  You may want to learn more about frame
construction techniques for your own benefit, but for entry level
mtbs it's not a critical issue.  Good introductions to this topic
are contained in the 1992 Bridgestone brochure, the July 1992
issue of MBA, and Richards' Ultimate Bicycle Book.

Tires and Wheels

Tires and wheels come with different treads, construction
techniques, thicknesses, appearances, rims, spokes, etc.  This is
an area I know less about, so I won't say much.  My bike came
with anodized, black rims, and black walled tires.  This tends to
give the bike a "heavy" look, if you care about such things.  The
black rims wear down to a silver finish after a few off-road
rides, so don't get too attached to them.  Marketing gimmick if
you ask me.  Remember that tires are very easy to replace, so if
you don't like what your bike comes with, swap them with
something else.  Look at the tire tread pattern - if it is
continuous along the centerline of the tire it will generally
provide a smoother ride on pavement, but otherwise it's difficult
to predict ride qualities based on eyeballing the tread.

As a minimum, look for stainless steel spokes instead of zinc
coated ones, which will corrode.  Butted spokes give a better
strength to weight ratio, but these are rare on entry level
bikes.

You can really modify the handling of a bike with different tires
(and tire pressures).  Aggressive, knobby tires are usually
preferred for trail use.  Of course, trails have different
characteristics depending on the climate, region, and geography,
which influence the choice of tire.  A mountain bike with
relatively slick tires can make an excellent bike for roads. 
Similarly, a hybrid can be made much more useful for trails by
using fat knobby tires.  Some even argue that the larger diameter
wheels commonly found on hybrids are better for off-road
maneuvering, especially climbing (Bianchi makes this claim in
their 1992 brochure).  If you want to change tires quickly and
conveniently you can get two complete pairs of wheels, although
this is quite a bit more expensive than just buying a second pair
of tires.  If you buy additional tires, make sure they will fit
your rims and that you have the right size tubes for them.

Shifters/Brakes

I haven't found a single entry level mtb which does not have
either Shimano or Suntour shifters and derailleurs.  Brakes and
brake levers are also mostly made by Shimano or Suntour, but
occasionally other names are found such as Dia-Compe, Proponent,
and Lee-Chi.  While brakes are a vital component, I don't think
you will be able to detect much of a difference between
manufacturers in this price class.

The choice of shifters and derailleurs is an issue of much
debate.  Once again, it boils down to personal preference, but
there are marked differences in quality.  Essentially there are
two types of shifters on the market today: Overbar index shifters
with friction option (one lever thumbshifters) and underbar index
shifters (dual levers with push-push or push-pull shifting).  The
stated advantages of the former are lower weight, less
complexity, and the ability to revert to friction shifting if the
system should be knocked out of alignment (without a friction
option, you are stuck in one gear if the indexing stops working). 
The stated advantages of the latter include ease of shifting and
position of shifters.  Less common types of shifters include grip
shifters and wishbone levers.

Denouncing push-button shifters seems to be as popular as bashing
hybrid bikes.  The editors of MBA magazine, for example, will
gladly indulge in either.  Try both and see which you like, and
just be aware of the advantages and disadvantages of each.  I
think push-button shifters really help the recreational rider
(including myself).  One of Bicycling magazine's editors made an
interesting comment that easy shifting encourages frequent
shifting which (if done correctly) results in more efficient
riding.

The Shimano mountain bike components (in order of increasing
quality and price) are as follows:

     1992                 1993
     ====                 ====
     70GS                 Altus A10
     100GS                Altus A20
     200GS                Altus C10
     Exage 300LX          Altus C20
     Exage 400LX          Exage ES
     Exage 500LX          Exage LT
     Deore LX             Deore LX (completely redone)
     Deore DX             Deore DX
     Deore XT             Deore XT
     XTR                  XTR

I haven't seen exactly what Suntour is doing for 1993, but these
are the components I'm familiar with:

     1992                 1993
     ====                 ====
     XCU                  Discontinued
     XCT                  New group?
     XCM                  XCM?
     XCE                  XCE?
     X-1                  XC-Expert?
     XC-LTD               XC-LTD?
     XC-Comp              XC-Comp
     XC-Pro               XC-Pro

Personally I prefer the entry level Shimano components over the
equivalent Suntour equipment, but try both out yourself.  As
another data point, Consumer Reports prefers Suntour over
Shimano.  The components can make up a considerable share of the
cost of the bike, especially for higher priced bikes.  Extreme
example: a complete Shimano XTR group will run you about $1,100,
but it's good stuff.

Some mtbs have the shifting and rear brake cables routed over the
top tube, to avoid dirt which gets splattered all over the down
tube.  I can attest to the fact that any cable which is routed
the conventional way, below the down tube, will get dirty from
riding on trails.  I just wipe off the mud after it has dried.  I
don't know if there are any drawbacks to having the cables routed
along the top tube; it may not be a bad idea.  Long and complex
cable routings can make shifting and braking more susceptible to
minor problems, however.

Of course, you could buy a bike you like and then upgrade the
components to something nicer.  Complete component groups or
individual components are available through retail and mail-
order.  However, when a bike manufacturer buys components you can
be ensured that the price is a lot less than what you would pay. 
My recommendation is to buy a bike that already comes with the
components you want.

Human Factors

I'm a big fan of quick release saddles and wheels, and you'll
find that most mtbs in the $350-450 range have them.  It really
helps to adjust saddle height depending on the riding conditions. 
Keep the saddle higher for on-road riding and long smooth climbs,
but lower for general off-road riding and fast down-hills.  Quick
release wheels are a divine gift when fixing flats, or
transporting the bike in your trunk (or, in my case, the back of
a Cessna 150 aircraft).  An obvious problem with quick release
saddles and wheels is that they are easily stolen, so if you live
in a high risk area you may want to counter this by using locks
or replacing the quick release skewers.  Specialized is
introducing lockable quick release skewers for 1993.

Saddle comfort is an issue, but on trails you should keep your
weight on the pedals, not the seat, so it's not that critical. 
Padded shorts help considerably in this respect.  I've seen
terrific reviews for two women's saddles: Terry and Miyata Pavea. 
Also, saddles can easily be replaced.  In general, if there is a
specific component you don't like, ask if the dealer will replace
it.  Often this is not a problem, but if you put on a more
expensive component, expect to pay the difference.  Easily
replaced items include the saddle, seat post, tires, grips, toe
clips, pedals, stem, and handle bar (the last two are a little
bit more cumbersome).

Handle bar position (controlled by the stem) and shape are to
some extent issues of comfort.  Some entry level bikes may have
curved or raised antler style, handlebars, promoting a more
comfortable upright position.  This might be appropriate for some
riders, but on the trails you want to be able to lean forward. 
For off-road riding, I recommend relatively straight handlebars
which are at least level with the saddle, or even a few inches
below.

Color

OK, not very important, but if you're like me, when you plunk
down a fair share of your salary on a new toy, you want it to
look good.  Most entry level mtbs come in one or two color
schemes.  Color is obviously a personal preference.  A darkly
colored bike does not get noticeably hotter in the sun (well
maybe it does, but it's never bothered me), so I can't really see
any preference for any particular color.

Multi-color and fancy paint schemes cost a bit more, so expect a
compromise somewhere else or a higher price.  For the really
artistic (or vain?) you can color match accessories, although
it's sometimes hard to find the same color from two different
manufacturers.  Black and hot pink always seem to be available,
however

Personal Recommendations

[Remember what I said in the beginning about personal opinion. 
It's particularly applicable to this section]

I often see prospective buyers ask for specific recommendations
on the net.  Well, the "correct" answer is it depends on your
needs and how each bike feels to you.  Nonetheless, there are a
few manufacturers which have impressed me with their quality
and/or philosophy, and whose bikes were pleasant to ride.  Their
bikes became my final candidates once I had narrowed down the
selection.  Possibly I'm just a victim of shrewd marketing - I'd
certainly like to hear what other people think.  Also, I haven't
been exposed to all manufacturers available, mostly just the big
ones.  My favorite manufacturers (and their best entry level mtb
around $450) are Specialized (Rockhopper), Bridgestone (MB-6),
Bianchi (Ibex), and, to a lesser extent, Giant (Sedona), and Trek
(830).

What do the magazines think?  The bikes I recommend were all
within the top seven in the Consumer Reports ratings.  The others
were: Cannondale SM400 ($535 however) and Nishiki Backroads. 
Unfortunately, the MBA 1992 Buyer's Guide does not contain
ratings.  Bicycling magazine rates the Specialized Rockhopper a
best buy, the only one under $500.

The one bicycle that impressed me most in terms of value for
money, was the Bridgestone MB-6 ($379.95 around here). 
Unfortunately, I personally didn't like the Suntour shifters and
derailleurs it had.  I strongly recommend you try it out for
yourself, however.  I ended up buying a Specialized Rockhopper,
and have been very happy with it.

Accessories

Thought you could get away with just spending $400 on a bike? 
Some initial accessories are necessary if you want to enjoy the
sport to its fullest, some others can be added later.  Try to
budget $100-200 for accessories when buying a bike.

Consider the following as a minimum for off-road riding:

Helmet ($40-100; try on many different ones, they all fit
differently)
Water bottle and cage ($5-10; many dealers will throw this in for
free)
Under seat tool bag ($25; Giant makes a good one with two
compartments and good tools for around $35; everything you'll
need except a patch kit and a spoke wrench)
Tools: Tire irons, allen wrenches, hex wrenches, screwdrivers,
spoke wrench, and chain tool (prices vary; consider a multi-
purpose tool like the popular Cool Tool for around $20)
Patch kit or spare tube ($2-4)
Frame pump or CO2 system ($20 for a mini-pump, recommend
Blackburn MP-1)
Pressure gauge ($5-10)
Toe clips and straps ($10-15; must have for efficient off-road
riding, dealer may throw these in for free or they may already be
provided on the bike by the manufacturer)
Gloves ($15-50, padded and with terry cloth strips; leather ones
are not washable)

Other good accessories include:

Padded shorts ($25-70)
Eye protection ($20-100 - and higher!)
Second water bottle and cage ($5-10)
Bike lock ($10-50)
Floor pump ($20-55)
Cycling computer ($25-50)
Cycling shoes ($35-100)
Lights ($25-200; more Watts, more bucks)
Books (prices vary; maintenance/trail guides/technique)

A word about helmets: I'm not going to pontificate about wearing
helmets   I wear one religiously (no pun intended).  What I do
want to say is that no one seems to consider the most practical
benefit of wearing a helmet when mountain biking: branches which
protrude into your path at eye level are easily deflected by
lowering your head and letting them bounce off the helmet.  This
beats using arms and hands to force a path through the
vegetation.  Helmets with a hard micro-shell are better suited
for this than those with lycra covered foam.  I recommend eye
protection when using this obstruction avoidance technique.

There are lots and lots of other things out there.  Accessories
are often found cheaper through mail order.  The two most popular
outfits seem to be Bike Nashbar (1-800-NASHBAR) and Performance
(1-800-PBSBIKE).  The rec.bicycles.* faq file lists many more
places.  If nothing else, get their catalogs to see what's out
there.  Some swear by mail order, others prefer to support their
local stores.

Trick accessories: Some accessories have mostly gadget value.  My
favorite is a seat post which doubles as a pump.  Don't let the
dealer pressure you into buying accessories you don't need - you
can always go back for more.  Items like fenders, rear rack, bar
ends, flip clip, seat pads, kick stand, jerseys, etc. may all
good accessories, but only if you really need them.  Ride your
bike for a while - you'll start noticing what you're missing.

Two other ways to save money on accessories: Many stores will
give you 10% off within 30 days after purchasing a new bike. 
Also, some stores will give 10% off to members of certain
bicycling organizations.

Your New Bike

What to do with your new bike?  Name it and give it a big hug. 
Well, consider waxing it (standard car wax) - it will do all the
good things wax does for your car, plus allow you to wipe dirt
off more easily.  Just make sure to get rid of any wax which ends
up on the rims.  Theft protection: Write down the serial number
and find out if there is a local bike registration program. 
Also, your bike owner's manual will normally have a product
registration card of sorts.  The manufacturers usually state that
it is necessary to send it in to validate the warranty.  It's
also what the manufacturers use to issue recalls and such. 
Otherwise, check the tire pressures and hit the trails.  See how
much dirt you can get on your new bike within one hour.

Upgrading?

This has little to do with entry level mtbs, but I find that
since I bought my bike I keep thinking about what bike I could
upgrade to next.  I'm thinking of something in the $750-850
range, preferably under 27 lbs.  I'm impressed by the following
bikes: Specialized Stumpjumper, Bianchi Peregrine, and
Bridgestone MB-3.  If anyone has any comments on these bikes, I'd
like to hear them.

The End

Comments? Questions? Complaints?  I'm always willing to learn
more about mtbs, the market place, and the industry.  Please send
e-mail to Joakim Karlsson, aviator@athena.mit.edu.  Thanks!

[November 5, 1992]
--
Joakim Karlsson            | aviator@athena.mit.edu
Flying Fanatic in Training | Air: PP-ASEL  CAP: Freedom 107 Mobile  FCC: N1JHW
                 "Oh, I have slipped the surly bonds of earth
                And danced the skies on laughter-silvered wings"