HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jcollias@src.dec.com (Jim Collias)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Looking for rechargable battery supplier
Date: 16 Dec 92 23:07:13 GMT
Organization: DEC Systems Research Center

Hi all,

I remember a thread about a month ago discussing the different ways of putting
together a home-made bicycle lighting system.  I'm gonna go ahead and start mine
now, but I need some sources for a rechargable battery.  

Anyone have an address or a phone number of a good inexpensive battery supplier? 


Thanks,

Jim C.
From: jbrandt@hplred.HPL.HP.COM (Jobst Brandt)
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1992 21:12:05 GMT
Subject: Re: Re: Chain Maintenance Question
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories, Palo Alto, CA
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech

Bernd Kischnick writes:

> I can't see whether shorter plates should be any better from your
> description? (Nor do I see whether being from Missouri should
> change the performance of a chain in any way :-) ?!)
>
>>-dk
>>> Bernd.
>>>> Jobst Brandt

> - Bernd.

All this talk about Coulomb and elongation and the rest is
speculation upon speculation.  Let's cut out the pretentious jargon.
Chains are a relatively well understood mechanical element and the
machine industry has been using them for a century.  The auto,
aircraft, machine tool, and other industrial products use an amount
of chains that far exceeds the paltry number of bicycle chains in
use.

What is more important is that no manner of esoteric design can do
much to improve the life of bicycle chains as long as they are sued
in the manner to which most bicycles are accustomed.  The front and
rear wheel throw a constant stream of fine grit onto the chain.  In
the absence of fresh lubricant, this isn't all that damaging but
with a little water  on the street all bets are off.

I don't believe for a minute that Rohloff bores non round holes in
his components nor that he has oriented cam ground pins.  Normal
elasticity of steel serves for adequate bearing contact and most
liquid chain lubricants furnish an adequate separation between the
rotating elements.  The grit is the undoing of all this and to
claim otherwise is deception.  Of course you can do worse as in the
case of the design introduced by Sedis.

Finally, as Mike Iglesias states regularly and I concur, please do
not append other writer's signatures to your post!  That means you
Bernd.  I don't like to see my name at the bottom of someone
else's opinions.  I don't know what motivates writers to do this but
it serves no purpose except to imply something incorrect.

By the way (Missouri "the Show Me state")

jobst_brandt@hplabs.hp.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tan@lynx.msc.cornell.edu.UUCP (David Tan,Box 219 Baker Lab,54810,2720402)
Subject: Re: CRANK PULLING PROBLEM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Originator: tan@msc2.msc.cornell.edu
Organization: Cornell-Materials-Science-Center
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 19:43:39 GMT

From article <1992Dec14.182501.3114@nas.nasa.gov>, by border@wilbur.nas.nasa.gov (Ryan A. Border):
> dhm1@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (DANIEL HILL MCCAULEY) writes:
> 
>>    (right crank arm) threads are totally stripped.
>>    How should I go about taking this crank off without damaging the bottom
>>    bracket shell.  I don't give a damn about the cranks...  I also
>>    don't care about the bottom bracket (or cranks). 
> 
> 1) You can use an automotive gear puller to grab the crank spider from
>    behind and extract it in the normal fashon.  This is usually the 
>    recommended method- though I've never tried it, and have never actually
>    seen one of these gear pullers.

You can get them in the automotive section of large department stores.  I've
seen a set for ~$15 at K-Mart (don't know how good they are, but if you don't
mind trashing the cranks...)

> 
> 2) In your shoes, I think I would attack the BB spindle.  You could probably
>    cut it with a hacksaw (between the fixed cup and the crank arm).  
>    A reciprocating saw would probably go through it like butter.  (I can't

Many spindles are chromoly, and having worked in a machine shop, I can assure
you that chromoly isn't so easy to work.  Have extra blades handy.

>    believe I've recommended using a Sawzall for bike repairs 2 times in the
>    same week...)
> 
>>*Dan McCauley       (Lair of Sam, Lisa, Spot, Spot II, and Victoria)
> _______________________________________________________________________________
> * Ryan A. Border               border@nas.nasa.gov,   border@craywr.cray.com  *
> * Cray Research Inc., On Site Applications Analyst 415-604-4633  o__ o__      *
> * Numerical Aerodynamic Simulator, NASA Ames Research Center    _.>/-.>/'_    *
> * Never trust someone who can count to 1023 on their fingers.  ( ) \---\(*)...*
> ==============================================================================*
> 
> 
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: adrian@ntmtv.UUCP (Adrian Brandt)
Subject: Re: Looking for rechargable battery supplier
Summary: Price Club
Organization: Northern Telecom Inc, Mountain View, CA
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 22:49:31 GMT

Price Club is the cheapest source of NiCd rechargeable batteries I know of.

I don't rembemer the exact price, but they sell an 8-pack of AAs for some-
where around $7 or $8.  They also carry C & D cells as well as 9Vs and
chargers.

Price Club is a membership warehouse-style volume discount chain of stores.
I'm told Costco and Sam's are similar, but I don't know if they carry cheap
NiCds too.

--

Adrian Brandt (415) 940-2379
UUCP: ...!ames!ntmtv!adrian
ARPA: ntmtv!adrian@ames.arc.nasa.gov
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: patrick@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Goebel)
Subject: Anyone using an 11-tooth cog?
Organization: Center for Advanced Study in the Behavioral Sciences
Distribution: rec
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 05:08:39 GMT

In a recent Bicycling issue (October 1992, p 80-81), it is claimed
that an 11-tooth titanium cog from TNT Performance Products is screwed
onto a Shimano 7-speed cassette thereby converting it to an 8-speed
cassette.

I'm interested in using an 11-tooth cog since I believe an
11-13-15-17-19-21-23-25 cassette combined with 46/39T up front would
come close to the ideal gear setup for my riding style and the varied
terrain around here.  It also greatly reduces the jump between chain
rings which is quite large under my current setup (53/39T).  (If
anyone can see a problem with this setup, please lemme know!)

Question 1: Is it possible to get an 11-tooth cog for a Shimano *8*
            speed HG cassette hub?

Question 2: What does it mean to "screw" the 11-tooth cog onto a *7*
            speed cassette?  Does it take the place of the lock ring?

Question 3: Do any other cassette hub manufactures (e.g. Campy, Mavic)
            offer an 11-tooth cog option?

Question 4: Are there any inherent problems in using such a small cog?

Many thanks for your help or opinions.

Cheers,
patrick
--
Patrick Goebel                    E-MAIL: patrick@casbs.Stanford.EDU
Network Administrator             VOICE:  (415) 321-2052
CASBS, 202 Junipero Serra Blvd.   FAX:    (415) 321-1192
Stanford, CA 94305                BEEPER: Temporarily Out of Order...
From: dhm1@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (DANIEL HILL MCCAULEY)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: CRANK PROBLEM ::: THANKS FOR ADVICE
Date: 15 Dec 92 16:07:00 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University


    Just wanted to thank everyone for the advice on crank pulling.  Thanks!

                                                    -Dan

                                                    
-- 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Daniel H. McCauley IV
DHM1@NS3.CC.LEHIGH.EDU
Lehigh University
U.C. #29 Box 58A
Bethlehem, PA, 18015
From: v206gb6c@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (My stuffed shark is eating my toenail clippings)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Kestral csx, too harsh for off-road?
Date: 16 Dec 92 15:36:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41


    I've been offered a pretty substantial discount on one of last years Kestral
mountian bikes and I was wondering if anyone had some experience with one.
I ride a Cannondale touring bike on the road and find it only a bit too harsh
in transfering vibration on a rough road, but I would never think of riding
one of their aluminum frames off-road.  How does a Kestral monocoque compare?
Thanks.

PauL M SchwartZ  (-Z-)  |  Follow men's eyes as they look to the skies
v206gb6c@ubvms.BitNet   |         the shifting shafts of shining 
pms@geog.buffalo.edu    |        weave the fabric of their dreams
pms@acsu.buffalo.edu    |                    - RUSH -
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: peter@helix.ObjecTime.on.ca (Peter Epstein)
Subject: Re: Where's the Indexing?
Organization: ObjecTime Limited
Distribution: bnr
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 92 15:16:37 GMT

You can keep your old non-indexing derailleur if:

a) it pulls the same amount of cable per gear as the new shifter
   (this is a function of the cog spacing)

b) you have some place to adjust cable tension.  If you're using down-tube shifters,
   you may be out of luck.  Mountain bike thumb shifters have cable tension adjusters
   on them.

I have a Kestrel with an old Suntour sprint friction derailleur and GripShift index
shifters.  It works fine, and the derailleur is nice and light.

-- 
   ,__o                                                  ,__o
 _-\_<,     Peter Epstein   peter@objectime.on.ca      _-\_<,
(*)/'(*)                                              (*)/'(*)
From: jrdodd@waikato.ac.nz
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: FM Radio
Date: 20 Dec 92 17:06:46 +1300
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Waikato, Hamilton, New Zealand

In article <1992Dec17.200342.24269@cbfsb.cb.att.com>, dwb@cbnewsb.cb.att.com (david.boyle) writes:
> I haven't seen it discussed at all in the past year or so but here goes...
> 
> Does anyone ride with a bike-mounted fm radio?  If yes, where could I find
> something decent?  How about getting good reception while riding?
> 
> I feel that a walkman type can be dangerous, even if you have earphones   
> on low volume.  Any experience?  I know I can expect comments :-)
> Thanks....................................................Dave

I've got a friend who connects his radio to one of those battery-powered
'mini-speakers' that he tapes to the underside of his seat.  That way he has
a bit of company yet can still hear cars etc.  

Jonathan,
New Zealand (go South then turn right)

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: richard@pegasus.com (Richard Foulk)
Subject: Re: vistalight led
Organization: Pegasus,  Honolulu
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 92 13:28:27 GMT

>KVWhy not use rechargeable NiCd cells instead? The contain 500-700mAh, so at
>KVleast 30hours before recharging is required.DER WAL
>
>The problem with the rechargeable NiCads is that they apparently
>have a very sudden fade at the end of their charge, so they give
>no warning that they'll go. Not that that would be the greatest
>disaster in the world...
>

When I tried them I found that nicads gave plenty of warning at the low
current drain that leds require.  Not the days of warning you get from
alkalines, but over an hour.

Nicads do have lower voltage from the start though (1.25 vs. 1.5) which
makes the leds a touch less bright.

Since alkalines last almost forever in these lights and are a touch
brighter, and put off the day when you'll wear out the flimsy case
from opening and closing it too many times ... I'll stick with them.


-- 
Richard Foulk		richard@pegasus.com
From: dhm1@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (DANIEL HILL MCCAULEY)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Adjusting Front Derailleur
Date: 16 Dec 92 05:11:56 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University


    Would someone please tell me how to adjust my front derailleur. Its a 105.
     I looked it up in the oct faq and only rear adjustment directions were
     listed and I couldn't access the FTP site where the other faqs are.
     Thanks for all help!

                                                                -Dan


                                                                
-- 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Daniel H. McCauley IV                                   Lehigh University   |
| Electrical Engineering                                  UC #29 Box 58A      |
| DHM1@NS3.CC.LEHIGH.EDU                                  Bethlehem, PA 18015 |
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: JForester@cup.portal.com (John - Forester)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Front Brake Usage
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 92 16:24:02 PST
Organization: The Portal System (TM)

   Jobst, I think that you are bit too hard on my paper in
Cycling Science concerning the mechanism for bending the front
forks under sudden front-wheel locking. That is the sole purpose
of that paper, and notice that I allowed for only the mass of the
cyclist's pelvis to apply load to the saddle for a short period
of time. I carefully cautioned that the paper does not predict
the final velocities nor the cyclist's final posture, nor the
actual movements while the front fork blades are collapsing. In
calculating the force against the front forks, I say that the
force should be calculated only from the deceleration and the
mass of the bicycle, because the cyclist "has probably decelerat-
ed only a small amount, being free to slip forward off the saddle
and his arms not yet stiffened to resist that movement." 

   Had I realized the misapprehension that might result, I would
have happily inserted a non-mathematical description of the
events after the initial fork collapse to prevent that misappre-
hension. 

   However, I think that you also err a bit in saying that the
cyclist's thighs flip the bicycle. The bicycle would be flipping
by itself, even before the cyclist's thighs came from behind to
assist that action. 

JForester@cup.portal.com                John Forester
                                        726 Madrone Ave
408-734-9426                            Sunnyvale CA 94086 USA
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: rapidfire disection
From: <SC11MISU@MIAMIU.BITNET>
Date: Friday, 11 Dec 1992 12:47:02 EST
Organization: Miami University - Academic Computer Service

As a bicycle mechanic, I've seen my share of rapid fire failures.  However your
problem does not appear to be with the shifter.  The problem you're discribing
is most often associated with too much cable tension to the front derailleur.
Try loosening the cable a little bit at the derailleur and then use the
adjusting barrel on the shifter to make fine adjustments.

Hope this helps!!!  @:^)

Steve "the COOCHMAN" Couture
Miami University OXFORD OH
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: John  King Smith <jkingsmi@mstr.amc.edu.au>
Subject: SIS shifter questions
X-Xxdate: Thu, 17 Dec 92 15:46:35 GMT
Organization: Australian Maritime College
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d9
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 92 21:47:25 GMT

I don't wish to get involved in the Rapidfire vs Thumbshifter debate
but is it possible to pull down and adjust a Shimano Mountain Lx 7
speed rear shifter?  The shifter doesn't click into position as
positively as the one on my wifes bike which is similar. I think
that this might be part of the reason I am having difficulty in
adjusting the gears.
Do I need to replace the shifter and if so, do I need to use another
Mountain Lx shifter or will any of the other Shimano shifters be
compatable?
Thanks in advance.

John
jkingsmi@mstr.amc.edu.au
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: neilf@delfin.com (Neil Frank)
Subject: Re: How to remove a chain??????
Organization: Delfin Systems
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 19:12:38 GMT

x90watz@gw.wmich.edu writes:
: Hey there netters,
: 
: I've got a quick question regarding chains -- I assume there is a master link
: in bike chains so that they can be removed without doing an disassembly of the
: bike, right? How do I locate the master link.....I assume it looks different
: from the rest of the links.....and then how is it to be removed?
: 

Most good bike chains no longer have master links... So, to assemble or 
disassemble them requires a chain tool which can be purchased at any bike
shop or bike magazine... They are approximately $5-7....

: 
: Also -- has anyone ever tried immersing the chain in a small pan of oil for a
: period of time, then letting it drip "clean," then wiping it off -- or is there

You will probably get many different ways on how to clean the chain, but my
favorite is to remove the chain and soak it in mineral spirits... Once it
is clean and dry, I place the chain into motor oil and let it soak for 
a day.  I then let the chain hang over the reserve oil while it drips the
excess off. 


-nlf-
-- 
Neil Frank		Delfin Systems		408-748-1200
neilf@delfin.com	Santa Clara, CA.
--              Wisdom is Gained Through Experience,            -- 
--        Experience is Gained Through Error.... "Unknown"      --
From: mike@pyrdc.UUCP (Mike Whitman)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Ft. Derailleur
Date: 17 Dec 92 22:20:43 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Pyramid Technology, Government Systems

From article <1992Dec17.195206.18316@chpc.utexas.edu>, by ezag637@chpc.utexas.edu (Steve Manifold):
> Greetings, fellow netters:
> 
> Question - Does anybody know whether Campy Record or Chorus front
> derailleurs have wider cages than Superbe Pro? 
> 
I just happen to have a Chorus (92) fron derailleur sitting here. I rode to 
work today. It is 10.8mm wide in the front and 11.7mm wide at the bolt on
the back of the cage. Hope this helps,

-- mike --
-- 
                 -=---------  Michael C. Whitman
               ---===-------  National System Engineer - Telecom
             -----=====-----  Pyramid Technology Corporation
           -------=======---  1921 Gallows Road, Suite 250
         ---------=========-  Vienna, VA 22182

	Phone: (703) 848-2050	Pager: (800)sky-page pin# 45300
	    mike@pyrdc.va.pyramid.com -or- uunet!pyrdc!mike
From: Mike@f88.n106.z1.fidonet.org (Mike)
Sender: Jpunix@urchin.fidonet.org
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: chain lubrication
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1992 18:14:02 -0500

TW> If you have the answer to this, could you send me a
TW>copy also? I am fairly a beginner and not quite sure what
TW>kind of lubricant to buy. I also have a question about those
TW>devise that you can wash the chain with. I am speaking about
TW>the ones you clip on to the chain while it's on the bike, and
TW>simply crank the paddle. Are they durable? Is there any parts
TW>that I have to replace, like the brushes?

Any oil with teflon in it should be a good lubricant for your chain,
but
be sure to wipe off any excess oil from the chain after you lubricate
it
to keep from attracting dirt. The chain needs to be lubricated at the
pins, where the movement is. I presently use a Vetta chain cleaner to
clean my chains. It works very well and appears well constructed. I
once
had one of the Park chain cleaners, and it came apart after a few uses.
This is the only Park tool I've ever had a complaint about, though, and
I have quite a few of their products. As for parts, the Vetta uses
plastic brushes, and comes with an extra set. I've been using mine for
about 9 months and don't see any need to replace the originals yet.
BTW,
the cleaner/conditioner Vetta sells is a good cleaner, but you need a
real oil for lubrication. Also, when my chain gets really dirty, I use
a
cleaner called Simple Green instead of the Vetta cleaner. This is a lot
quicker, although it should be rinsed off with water.

 * SLMR 2.1a *      Take my advice, I don't use it anyway.

 * Origin: Two Wheelers - The Bicylists' Communications Link (1:106/88)
From: nevai@mps.ohio-state.edu (Paul Nevai)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Trek 520 - info needed
Date: 15 Dec 1992 15:18:36 GMT
Organization: Department of Mathematics, The Ohio State University
Distribution: world
Reply-To: pali+@osu.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: ops.mps.ohio-state.edu
Originator: nevai@ops.mps.ohio-state.edu

I'm thinking of buying a Trek 520 (or maybe an equivalent touring or
sport-touring bike in the 1K range).  If you have any advice, opinion,
criticism, etc., please send me an email message.  Thanks. Take care...Paul

P.S. I am a happy owner of an 11 year old Schwinn Voyageur with a slightly
bent frame and a (formerly) happy (former) owner of a just stolen Schwinn
Crosscut (from the OSU Campus). BOTH are (were) F UN in their own way.

Paul Nevai                            nevai@mps.ohio-state.edu
Dept Math - Ohio State University     1-614-292-3317 (Office)
Columbus, Ohio 43210-1174, U.S.A.     1-614-292-1479 (Math Dept Fax)
From: miolnir@stein.u.washington.edu (Scot Thorstad)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Rear Brake problem on ATX-760
Date: 11 Dec 92 18:01:24 GMT
Article-I.D.: u.1992Dec11.180124.17598
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle

In article <1992Dec11.103706.6917@gw.wmich.edu> x90watz@gw.wmich.edu writes:
>
>	I've got a quick, relatively simple question (hopefully!).  I recently
>purchased a Giant ATX-760 and have notice that the rear brakes don't seem to be
>very "solid."  My front brakes are wonderful, but I am of the opinion that the
>rear brakes should do most of the stopping.......especially on a downhill I;)
>
>-Mike-

Because of the longer cable rear brakes are usually a little sloppier. If 
tightening the adjustment barrel causes them to rub, you're pretty much
stuck unless you want to re route your cables.  As for your opinion,
you'd better lose it, quick! On flat land the front brake provides about 
60-75 percent of your braking power and on steep downhills it provides
up to 95 percent. Use your front brakes!

miolnir
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: jimw@hfglobe.intel.com (Jim Williams)
Subject: Composite Spokes
Keywords: spokes
Organization: Intel Corporation
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 23:32:15 GMT

I was talking to a friend the other day and he
was saying he saw demos of composite spokes at interbike.
We were discussing building some light weight MTB wheels
using NUKE PROOF Ti hubs.  Any insight to either composite
spokes or the NUKE PROOF Ti hubs would be appreciated.

Jim,

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech