HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: kroth@sunshine.Kodak.COM (David Kroth)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Learn from my mistakes...
Date: 31 Aug 92 16:21:13 GMT
Article-I.D.: kodak.1992Aug31.162113.26691
Distribution: usa
Organization: Eastman Kodak Co., Rochester, NY



I have two tips that I would like to pass along.  I discovered
these bits of knowledge this past weekend.

1) Never leave green wood laying on the cast iron surfaces
   of your power tools.  I left a small piece of green
   wood on the infeed table of my jointer last sunday
   night.  By friday afternoon (five days later) there was
   a substantial rust spot on the table.  The rust also stained
   the piece of wood, which was supposed to be part of a
   clock that I am making.  Damn.  This really surprised
   me because the wood had been air drying for several
   months.

2) When you want to test the sharpness of a scraper, do
   the following.  Place the fleshy part of your thumb
   at one end of the blade.  Apply substantial pressure
   while drawing your thumb along the edge of the tool.
   If the blade shaves off a good hunk of skin and causes
   you to bleed more than one drop of blood every 5 seconds,
   then the scraper is sharp.  Oh, I forgot to add that
   you are to do this absentmindedly, and act surprised
   when you feel the pain and see the slash in your digit.

David Kroth
kroth@acadia.kodak.com

PS.  For those of you in western new york, I would also like
to add that you should never expect the sun to to shine for
more than ten minutes before more rain starts to fall.  The
moment you finish putting that last coat of primer on the
body work of your truck, the rain will come pouring down and
ruin the whole job.
From: bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Incra jigs
Date: 28 Aug 92 16:39:07 GMT
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Distribution: na
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated

Ralph D Clifford writes
> In article <1992Aug27.231931.19033@adobe.com> bennett@adobe.com writes:
> >All the incra-jig does is position a fence in accurate increments of 1/32"  
from
> >some initial setting that you make (by eye in their video). Assuming you
> >haven't changed the inital setting, you can move the fence and reposition it
> >exactly where it was, for all intents and purposes. Once you reset the jig, 
> >however, you lose that ability (it's as good as you can recreate the initial 
> >setting).
> 
>      Not true.  In most operations, should you need for some reason to move
>      jig, you can realign the jig from the work piece by placing the router
>      bit back into the last cut made. 

I wasn't able to do this with anywhere near the accuracy that the jig itself 
provides. I stand by by my statement that the accuracy after resetting is only 
as good as you can recreate it (whether to a zero position or to a previous 
position).

If this is accurate enough for the work you're doing (and I'm not saying it 
isn't), then you don't need the Incra-Jig. A good tablesaw rip fence is 
probably sufficient (maybe better if you've got a micro-adjuster on it) - if 
you're using your tablesaw extension as your router table, of course.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: price@ab00.larc.nasa.gov (Mac Price)
Subject: Re: Delta EMS (was Re: Incra jigs)
Organization: NASA Langley Research Center, Hampton, VA  USA
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 13:45:29 GMT

In article <1992Sep1.225741.9020@adobe.com>, bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds) writes:
|> Jordan B Pollack writes
|> > CLEARLY, what we all need is a combination digital/analog rip fence,
|> > with a disengageable digital control, either a leadscrew/quarter-nut
|> > combination or a double rack combination,
|> 
|> How about fitting Delta's EMS (Electronic Measuring System) onto the rip
|> fence?  Supposedly, its accuracy is on the order of 0.001". Anybody have one
|> care to tell us about it?

I have the Delta EMS and I love it!  It is very accurate and repeatable.  It
has switchable units which make it easier to set depending on what you are
doing.  For example, you can rip a board to the closest 32nd of an inch, or,
if you want to divide a board into, say, thirds, you can switch to a decimal
scale and set it to the number from your favorite calculator, etc.

I have two minor complaints about the EMS.
1. I think it is overpriced for the materials involved in making it - but
   worth it for the convinience it provides.
2. It has no on/off switch.  It is battery operated and uses little power,
   but enough that, when I am not working on a project for a couple of weeks,
   the display gets faint from weak batteries.  I tend to remove the batteries
   between projects to avoid this.  I then have to recalibrate it when I 
   return the batteries later.  This is quick and easy to do, but given the
   cost of the thing (~$100), should not be necessary, IMO.

BTW, I use my EMS on my Delta Unisaw with 52" Unifence.

Mac Price
price@ab00.larc.nasa.gov
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 28 Aug 1992 08:43:42 -0800
From:         RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM
Subject:      Re: Incra jigs
X-To:         WOODWORK%IPFWVM.BITNET@pucc.Princeton.EDU

I've had an incra jig for about 6 months now. I realy like it. I originaly
got it to do through dove tails on my router table (yet  to be built); but,
I've gotten side tracked doing finger lap joints on my table saw.

I've got the little one, it's a bit slower to adjust than the pro; but, it's
strong enough (stable and rigid) to work well as a table saw fence.

I bought the hand book after I got the jig. The book is definatly worth it,
many slick tricks and the instructions that come with the jig are pretty
slim.

I built my own fence (they tell you how) and slide table insted of buying
there's. The home made ones work quite well.

I was initialy consurned that the 1/32" adjustment increment wouldn't be
fine enough. It hasn't been a probelm. You can loosen 4 screws and offset the
jig to any position inside the 1/32 increment. It's set up to let you use a
feeler gague to get a very precice off set.

I'd buy the jig and book again in a minute (I don't think I'd spend the extra
money for a pro). I wish all my jigs and set ups worked as well as the inca.

                        Ron Tye

                        (no affiliation with inca company
                         I just like the product)
From: grun@intellistor.com (Paul Grun)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: advice on whether to buy a fence
Date: 26 Aug 92 20:56:59 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Intellistor, Inc.

In <5096@dove.nist.gov> wack@ariel.ncsl.nist.gov (John Wack) writes:


>I've been reading this newsgroup lately after a long absence and have 
>noticed some of the negative reviews of the cheaper Delta table saws.
...
>well and I can't really justify replacing it -- except for the fence,
>perhaps.  The stock fence is made out of aluminum, locks at the front,
>and does tend to flex somewhat -- it's also not completely straight.
...
>I'm always compensating for this fence and,
...
>I see that only on the
>most expensive Deltas you get the unifence, so it seems that upgrading
...
>The Vega fence is also very nice, too - I don't know the prices,
>but these fences probably cost around what I paid for my saw.  Provided
>they would fit on my saw, is it likely that, when I do buy a much better
>saw, I'll be able to use the unisaw or vega (or xxx) fence on that new
>saw? (and not be throwing away a perfectly good stock fence on the new
>saw? -- I'm assuming that these fences are usually not stock items on
>table saws).

I can't tell you what to do, but maybe I can shed a just a little light.
Your current stock alum fence sounds like a real bad deal.  The flexing is
troubling if not dangerous.  Be careful that you don't get a work piece
jammed in there and wind up with a bad kickback.  Besides, it's *real*
frustrating (as you know) to be continuously compensating for the fence.

Now, as for Unifences: these are offered as an option for any Delta saw (not
certain about the motorized saw such as you have.  If I was a betting type,
I'd bet that it'll fit your saw.)  The hitch is that if you buy a Delta saw
equipped with a Unifence, you get a pretty nice price break.  So, if you buy a
Unifence for your existing saw, and then upgrade later to a better saw (say a Delta
Contractor's saw), you'll wind up paying extra in the long run and wind up 
throwing away the Jetlock fence that comes standard with the Deltas.  I don't
think you can buy a Delta absolutely fenceless, but I'm probably wrong about that. 
BTW, the Jetlock isn't a bad fence, just not as nice as the Unifence.
When you do buy a better saw, almost any aftermarket fence you could buy now
will fit the new saw.

As for nice fences being stock items on table saws, I've already mentioned the
Unifence, which is the next best thing to being stock since you can order a 
Delta saw with one.  The Powermatic Artisan series also comes stock with a 
Vega fence.

Good luck!
Paul
grun@intellistor.com
-- 

goes to show, you don't ever know...
grun@intellistor.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: obrien@serum.clpd.Kodak.Com (John O'Brien (x37279))
Subject: Re: Help w/ paste wood filler
Reply-To: obrien@serum.kodak.com
Organization: Eastman Kodak Company - Clinical Products Division
Distribution: clpd
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 16:53:25 GMT

In article <168547D53.SDOGGETT@cmsa.gmr.com>, SDOGGETT@cmsa.gmr.com writes:
|> From time to time, I've been experiencing a problem when using paste wood fille
|> r.  The problem is scratching thesurface when removing the filler.  I'm allowin
|> g it to dry until the "wet look" is gone.  I've removed it with the recommended
|> method of burlap across the grain.  This causes the least amount of scratching.
|>   Another method is to use a credit card as a scraper.  It's an easier way, yet
|>  is more likely to scratch.  My guess is there's abrasive in the filler it's s
|> elf.  Does anyone have any advise?  Also, there are times when the filling proc
|> ess it's self just doesn't seem to fill the grain.  I never notice this, of cou
|> rse, until I spray the lacquer.  I'm tempted on trying a spray saning sealer in
|> stead.  Thank you in advance for your help.
|> 
|> Spencer Doggett
|> 

I have used the credit card method which seems to remove the excess
quite nicely. My problem however is that the stuff never dries enough
to sand. I used Benwood Paste Wood Filler, a Benjamin Moore product. I
followed the directions for thinning, ie. to a heavy cream consistency
thinning with mineral spirits. I added a touch of UTC (Universal
Tinting Color) to accent the grain. After it got to a dull color (10
minutes) I scraped it off and let the wood dry overnight as per the
instructions on the can. The next day when I tried sanding, it just
filled up the sandpaper with the goop and made a mess. I had to let it
dry a week and still got clogged sandpaper. I had to sand with 120
grit and then 220 in order to get the crap off the wood. The final
product is much smoother than when I started although with all the
excessive sanding I feel I removed a lot of the filler.
	What did I do wrong or was the filler bad stuff? Any of you
guys out there experienced with filler to be able to address these 2
problems? If so, much appreciated!!

John O'Brien
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Thu, 3 Sep 1992 10:48:51 -0800
From:         RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM
Subject:      Re: Collect'm, Trade'm

Got a set of craftsman trading cards; but, no bubbble gum included. Trashed
cards.

Did any one get bubble gum?

                                Ron
From: wtc@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (william.cox)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: thos. moser's address
Date: 25 Aug 92 23:59:07 GMT
Article-I.D.: cbnewsl.1992Aug25.235907.13788
Distribution: na
Organization: AT&T UNIX System Laboratories

In article <5105@dove.nist.gov> wack@ariel.ncsl.nist.gov (John Wack) writes:
>
>From an earlier posting, I've been asked to supply info on how to
>get a copy of Thos. Moser's catalog.  Here it is:
>
>Portland, ME		207-774-3791
>Philadelphia, PA	215-922-6440
>Alexandria, VA		703-548-3447
>
>I visited the Alexandria store and paid 5 bucks for the catalog in 
>1991 -- I don't know what it costs now.  It is a very nice catalog,
>almost a sort of coffee table book, with nice sections on woodworking
>and lots of good photography.  His 1990 price list is steep, but the 
>quality is absolutely superb -- cherry has increased in price
>dramatically (why?) lately, so I suspect that his 1992 prices are
>even higher.  I have one of Moser's earlier books - How to Build
>Shaker Furniture (I think) and I find that this catalog, with its
>more refined designs and color photography, makes a good companion
>to the earlier book.
>
>Happy reading!
>John Wack
>

Moser is unusual among modern furniture makers in that he publishes
detailed drawings of his designs.  I've enjoyed the "Shaker Furniture"
book, and there are several more recent ones including one on Windsor
chair making.

Prices are steep, but I have been well pleased and (IMHO) received excellent
value on his furniture (I have a floating arm bench and chair and a
coffee table).  Price top quality furniture-store furniture: you'll find
the prices aren't so stratospheric after all.

BTW, while I could make the tables and some of the chests, I don't
think that I personally could do as well with the chairs.  Also, I've
been meaning to make the Moser-design harvest table for around ten years.

I think the catalog is around $8 now; ads are in most issues of the
New Yorker.  You'll get catalogs for quite some time if you buy his
furniture.   ;-)

	bill

	William Cox
	bill@usl.com
	UNIX System Laboratories
	Summit NJ 07901
From: kevin@cs.adelaide.edu.au (Kevin Maciunas)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Incra jigs
Date: 2 Sep 92 00:53:55 GMT
Organization: CS Dept, University of Adelaide
In-reply-to: jde@esix.everex.com's message of 27 Aug 92 22:22:55 GMT

In article <2619@news.cerf.net> jde@esix.everex.com (Jeff Ellis) writes:

   I have been thinking about getting a incra jig for my router table,
   has anybody used on of these a lot? 
   How easy is to do dovetails with it? Is the incra pro a lot better 
   than the standard jig? From the ads it seems to be a better buy.

I have been an Incra user for several years now.  I have the standard
version on my (shop built) router table and also on my table saw.
Without doubt, these things are so simple, precise and *REPEATABLE*
they are worth every cent.  I recently purchased the fence & right
angle fixture too.

Apropos dovetails - yup, they are trivial.  I've made a bunch of boxes
with some variable spaced dovetails and I actually used the incra jig
to make a custom jig to make the dovetails!  This avoided the stuff
ups [which we all have, you must admit!] when you set the fence to the
wrong mark.  I've also used it to make 1-1/2" blocks with little
finger joints at either end.  You then pin these together (i.e. a
series of wooden hinges) and it makes a really nice "gooseneck" for a
desk lamp.  This exercise was really trivial (if somewhat boring &
noisy) with the router & the jig.

The only down side to the 'pro that I can see is that the little
plastic ruler *can* be accidentally moved while the jig is in (clumsy)
use.  I have "road tested" the 'pro only on a 12" saw table at the
distributor's show room - so it might just be me using "alien" tools!
Any 'pro users out there able to give some feed back on this?
One thing that did show up tho' was the fact that the kerf on the 12"
saw was 3.5mm.  My saw has a 1/32" kerf which matches the jig nicely -
so I can do finger joints painlessly on the table saw as well as the
router.

I guess the other "issue" with the 'pro for us metric country people
is that it needs 3 sets of metric racks.........

Cheers,
/Kevin
------
Kevin J. Maciunas			Net: kevin@cs.adelaide.edu.au
Dept. of Computer Science		Ph : +61 8 228 5845
University of Adelaide			Fax: +61 8 228 1206
GPO BOX 498 Adelaide 5000
SOUTH AUSTRALIA

--
Kevin J. Maciunas			Net: kevin@cs.adelaide.edu.au
Dept. of Computer Science		Ph : +61 8 228 5845
University of Adelaide			Fax: +61 8 228 1206
GPO BOX 498 Adelaide 5000
SOUTH AUSTRALIA
From: ron@pilot.njin.net (Ron Natalie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: BANDSAW INFO REQUIRED
Date: 3 Sep 92 17:57:20 GMT
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

While I have my own nationalistic reasons for buying American, I have
no delusion that US vs. Taiwan manufacture is any indication of
relative quality.  I've certainly learned that on cars and hand power
tools.

_Ron
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 28 Aug 1992 13:35:48 EDT
From:         Doug Cutler <UNCDWC@UNCVM1.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: BANDSAW INFO REQUIRED
              28 Aug 1992 15:31:30 GMT from <clewis@FERRET.OCUNIX.ON.CA>

On Fri, 28 Aug 1992 15:31:30 GMT Chris Lewis said:
>
>Which also implies that you can use Delta as a source of parts for many of the
>Taiwanese units.
    Yup, I have a nondescript scroll saw bought from a Lowes a few years ago.
When it scattered it blade clamps to the winds one day as the blade broke I
just drove down the road to WWS and picked up a couple of Delta ones.  Now I
have to admit that I had just about worn out the socket screws on the old
one and the Delta ones are showing no signs of wear yet!!


  Doug. Cutler                       Office of Information Technology,
  VM Systems Programmer              University of North Carolina.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: pal@chaos.att.com (p.a.layman)
Subject: Re: Frequently Asked Questions about Electric
Reply-To: p.a.layman@att.com
Organization: VLSI Technology Development Lab, AT&T Bell Labs
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 13:39:18 GMT

In article <1992Sep1.170152.17084@organpipe.uug.arizona.edu>, apoyner@as.arizona.edu (Tony Poyner) writes:
|> 
|> Could you explain what _Service Factor_ for an electric motor is?
|> 
|> I have just paid an arm and a leg for a new furnace blower motor because
|> it required SF of 1.25 instead of 1.0.

and steveh@m2xenix.psg.com (Steve Hampson) repsonds

> The section titled "Electric Motor Terminology" in my Johnstone Supply
> catalog states:
>
>	Service Factor - Number by which the horsepower rating is multiplied
> 	to determine the maximum safe load that a motor may be expected to
>	carry continuously. 

Now you may be asking "why don't I get a bigger motor with a service factor
of 1.0?"  The high service factor indicates that the motor may be subject
to a lot of stop/start cycles, where the currents (and dispated heat) will
be greater than the nominal faceplate rating.

Hope this helps.

P. A. Layman (p.a.layman@att.att.com)

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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Thu, 3 Sep 1992 08:22:15 EDT
From:         Doug Cutler <UNCDWC@UNCVM1.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: My name is Tim, and I am a molding nerd...

On Tue, 1 Sep 1992 20:01:01 GMT Tim Holt said:
>Hi...
>
>Uppity Molding Nerds rise up and show your baseboards!

   Here is another one, though I don't have any genuine antiques I do have
a Record Multiplane from the late 50's that has more cutters and bases than
Woodcraft have, I also have lots of fun with some of the modern router bits.


  Doug. Cutler                       Office of Information Technology,
  VM Systems Programmer              University of North Carolina.
From: ron@pilot.njin.net (Ron Natalie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Frequently Requested rec.woodworking addresses (last updated 9/1/92)
Date: 2 Sep 92 16:35:03 GMT
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

> Bob Morgan's Woodworking Supplies	(502) 456-2545
> 1123 Bardstown Road
> Louisville, KY 40204
>	Hardwoods, veneers, veneering tools and hand tools.

I've ordered from this guy and am extreley unhappy with the quality
of the wood I got from him.  Not only was the wood pretty cruddy
(obviously rejects from the veneer business, though these were not
the ones marked as "mill ends" that he sells as well), the dimensions
were substantially shortened in all directions including length.

For tools and finishes, his prices are more expensive than just about
anybody else, too.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stevep@lugh.se.hou.compaq.com (StevePinnDick)
Subject: Re: Incra or Leigh?
Followup-To: Incra or Leigh?
Keywords: router, jigs, incra, leigh
Organization: Compaq Computer Corporation
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 14:36:59 GMT

In article <1992Aug31.204901.12486@bmerh85.bnr.ca>, wedge@bnr.ca (Rick Wedge) writes:
|> With all the posts about the Incra jig, I'm wondering if that is the most 
|> popular jig out there.  Is anybody using the Leigh dovetail jig?  How does
|> it compare to the Incra?  I think it's a bit more expensive, is it worth it? 
|> 
|> Rick Wedge
|> 

Rick, if you have seen the two of them I think you will notice a very significant difference in form and function.

The Incra is designed as a positioning aid, which it does very well.  The main function however is just positioning.  Using this capability and some pretty tricky procedures that Incra has developed creating some very interesting joinery is posible.

The Leigh Jig, on the other hand, is purely a dovetailing system.  It is template defined and hence not as suseptable to mistakes or slips as the Incra is.  The Leigh jig will cut many type of dovetails the the Incra won't (ie) sliding, tapered sliding and I believe it will handle joinery of two different thicknesses of wood, which I think the Incra will not do.

I have used both and I own an Incra and will buy a Leigh when wifey says OK.  I have found the Incra to be awkward when cutting dovetails or finger joints in large but narrow drawers as you must clamp the work vertically you have a small surface (board end) bearing on the table with most of the drawer component pointing straight up.

My personal bent is toward the Leigh. - Regards Steve
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: avesper@mr4dec.enet.dec.com ()
Subject: RE: Painted wood sticking together
Reply-To: avesper@mr4dec.enet.dec.com ()
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 16:22:11 GMT

> I am planning to paint a project that I am nearly finised with, but I'm
> worried about pieces sticking together.  In earlier projects that I
> have painted, pieces tend to stick together weeks after having painted
> them.  It seems that the paint hasn't fully cured for quite some time
> (months perhaps).  I have been using latex based paint.  Is there a
> paint that will cure quicker thus preventing my pieces from sticking
> together after final assembly?  I have several wood hinges that will
> need to pivot freely, there will be painted wood rubbing painted wood
> on a screw pivot.

Some quick thoughts.

1. I would expect that painted surfaces would be stickier in high
humidity -- is this a factor for you?

2. Enamel paints might work somewhat better for you.

3. Try waxing the painted surfaces -- try it in an inconspicuous spot
first, of course; it may change the color or cause another problem.

4. Add a plastic washer between two pivoting pieces. Try cutting one
out of a plastic milk jug.

5. Think about changing the design so that painted pieces don't touch.

Andy V
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking