HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: u8acb@ohm.york.ac.uk (Alex Barclay)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Carb Problem
Date: 6 Apr 92 08:51:08 GMT
Organization: Electronics Department, University of York, UK

In <0dr=hjS00WBNM4w6tT@andrew.cmu.edu> pt1e+@andrew.cmu.edu (Paul M Taylor) writes:

>I've got a carb problem I hope someone can help me with.

>The car is an 80' Pinto 4cyl,4sp. new cam/lifters(stock) and a header
>and free flow exhaust.  The carb is a motorcraft 5200 model.  when at
>idle the engine will fluctuate 200 rpm between 500 and 700 rpm.  I
>rebuilt the carb and set it to fact. specs.  When I changed the jets I'm
>not sure if the primary jet went in the primary hole or vice versa. the
>carb is a two stage.
[Symptoms Deleted]
I've had trouble with this sort of thing for quite a while with
my car, a 1982 Renault 5 Gordini Turbo (Mouthful more like). I've
tracked the trouble to several things, each of which has sorted it
for a while.

The first occasion was a dead O-ring on the turbo, resulting in a leak.
It produces your symptoms most accurately. The idle adjustment having
not enough effect to drop the idle speed to what is required. The carb.
by the way is a Weber 32DIR. Now when I disconnected the pressure sense
to the computer the engine idled very roughly. I now suspect that this
is because you're buggering up the mixture even more. You should
be able to tune for a disconnected vacuum pipe pretty easily. Maybe it'd
be a good idea to check every fitting from butterfly to engine for
tightness.

The other occasions do not really match your predicament (Blown head
gasket amongst others) except one interesting point is that my carb.
has a water feed because it is quite remote from the engine. In cold
weather if there are any air locks in the coolant then the carb. doesn't
get heated and ices up. This gives the symptoms also.

>Also my gas mileage is poor.  Lucky if i get 20, if that.  I would
>believe a 4cyl car should get more.

Either way I normally get better than 20 to the gal even an English gallon
although I am inclined to think with the amount of insurance I'm paying
they are expecting me to drive like a maniac. With my premium I
wouldn't like to disappoint them!!!  :-)


			Alex.
From: sheriffp@Software.Mitel.COM (Peter Sheriff)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Washing cars with hard water
Date: 6 Apr 92 12:52:14 GMT
Organization: Mitel. Kanata (Ontario). Canada.


     The best way that I have found (we have plenty of disolved minerals
in our water) is to use a good quality car wash concentrate. I use 
something that is a bit cheaper and just as effective called Basic H by
Shaklee but any good name product should do the job. Clean the car in the 
shade and then dry it with a chamois or good synthetic or even just
plenty of soft lint-free cloths but don't let it air-dry.

                               Pete
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: pauly@netcom.com (Paul Yoshimune)
Subject: Re: Question on Small block parts swap ..
Date: Mon, 06 Apr 92 00:57:41 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 

With Chevy heads, it is very hard to tell what your final compression ratio
will be without setting everything up.  Even with the same casting number,
different heads will have different compression ratios, as well as different
valve sizes.  A great deal also has to do with whether the heads have been
surfaced, whether the block has been decked, what kind of head gasket you
use, if you have bored the block, etc.  In most cases, you won't have any
problem putting a 327 head on a 350, since almost all small block heads are
interchangeable.  The exceptions are the 400, and (I think) the 267 and 262.
You should have no problem whatsoever with any of the 4-inch bore blocks,
though...

-- 
-Paul Yoshimune [pauly@netcom.com]
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: tr@samadams.princeton.edu (Tom Reingold)
Subject: Re: Economics&OldVolvos
Organization: Noo Joizy, USA
Date: 14 Apr 92 16:08:29 GMT

derek@fivegl.co.nz (Derek Tearne) writes:

$ I read an article about an American who had driven his Volvo from new to 
$ over 1,000,000 miles!. it was one of those old Volvo sports cars ( can't
$ remember the name P### I think.)  Original engine and everything. I believe 
$ Volvo gave him a brand new Volvo. I might have the article at home if 
$ anyones interested.

I saw this on Motor Week, a TV show on PBS, the public TV network in
the US.  As I remember it, Volvo invited him so they could present him
with a certificate and surprised him with a new car.  I think they gave
him a top-of-the-line car, too.

Motor Week showed him driving along happily in his old Volvo sports
car, driving more slowly that the rest of traffic in the fast lane of a
six lane highway.
--
        Tom Reingold
        tr@samadams.princeton.edu  OR  ...!princeton!samadams!tr
        "Warning: Do not drive with Auto-Shade in place.  Remove
        from windshield before starting ignition."
From: Steve.Kaess@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Steve Kaess)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Material Science for my Windshield
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1992 21:34:43 -0500

 > ANY HELP SOUGHT !!!!
 > I have a hairline fracture in my windshield.  It is small,
 > but growing.
 > Someone told me that they heard of putting some kind of
 > glue a the growth
 > end.  I don't kow what kind of glue to use !!
 >
 > I assume it should be (1) rigid like glass, (2) adherent
There are places that do this for you.  I would try to look them 
up under windshield repair or some such in the book since your insurance 
might even pay for it and since they know whats going on(one would 
guess) Unless you want to give it the old tech try!!!



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sch@gargoyle.unx.sas.com (Steve Holzworth)
Subject: Re: G.M. (late model) pickups (ROAR)  
Organization: SAS Institute Inc.
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1992 17:14:50 GMT
Originator: sch@gargoyle.unx.sas.com
X-Bytes: 2106

In article <1992Apr16.150141.5600@unx.sas.com>, sasclh@unx.sas.com (Cary Hatch) writes:
>I have a 91 GMC half ton pickup...
>
>   Vortec V6 (4.3 litre) (3/4 of the 350 v8) ;-)
>   Automatic (overdrive)
>
>My pickup and all other (that I know of) later model 
>g.m. pickups (gasoline) make a "roaring" noise in the 
>first 5 seconds or so of acceleration, only upon start 
>up.  It doesn't matter whether the vechicle is cold or 
>warm.  Any time after starting the vehicle and putting 
>in gear and accelerating normally the "roar" will occur.
>After the initial "roar" the vehicle operates quietly 
>and normally...  The phenom is described to me by other
>people I work with in the following vehicles:  an S15 (4.3),
>a chevy 1/2 ton 350, and an asto van (4.3) all automatics...
>
>The "roaring" phenom has a distinct "look & feel" very
>hard to describe.  It sure feels like during this 
>period the power is reduced but could be just the feel
>of it...  I suspect something to do with emissions and  
>vehicle warmup...
>
>Queries to the dealer have been less than satisfactory
>(any surprises there ???).  I know I can get a more 
>informed (at least honest) response here...  besides 
>I'll bet there are a few of you out there with chevy 
>trucks :-)  (please no ford/chrylser/toyota/datsun/
>mistsubish.etc... flames)
>
>OK!  All you automotive wizards:  WHAT IS IT ???
>
>Cary 
>

This is a total guess... on old style Rx7s, the radiator fan is
driven by a centrifugal clutch. When the engine is initially started,
the clutch is engaged (for whatever reason). The resulting fan noise
causes a roar similar to what you describe, and a loss of power because
of the added drag on the engine. After a brief period, the clutch releases,
causing the engine to behave normally. The clutch normally DISengages at
higher (above idle) engine speeds, resulting in no drag.

I had the clutch on my Rx7 stick engaged once. It's quite an experience
driving an airplane to the dealership :-). It's also amazing how MUCH
power the fan pulls when it's engaged at high engine rpm.

Steve Holzworth
sch@unx.sas.com

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jfb2@po.CWRU.Edu (John F. Bauer III)
Subject: Hydrolic Valve Lift replace, how tight?
Reply-To: jfb2@po.CWRU.Edu (John F. Bauer III)
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 92 11:49:12 GMT


	I just replaced the hydrolic valve lifters in my '78 Ford
Econline Van, 300 cub. in. 6.  This engine doesn't have a rocker
arm with a bar running the length of the engine, it has individual
"arms", 1 for each valve, 2 per cylinder, thus 12 of them.  I am
wondering how tight I have to crank those bolts on the top of those
"amrs"  With the valve cover off, I ran the engine and cranked each
one down till they didn't click.  Then I shut the system off and gave
each bolt a 1/4 turn down for what I think is "valve lank".  The
engine runs fine at idle or at ver high rev. when operatining, but the
valves really clatter and I have a noticable loss of power upon take
off.

	Do I need more "valve lank"?  Or, since I totally replaced the
oil and remove 100 miles worth of oil sludge builded, do I just have
break the system in?  Anyone have any words of wisdom to help me out here?

John


-- 
John F. Bauer III			216-937-6117
IntelliSystems		     Custom Computer Systems
3816 Jaycox Rd.                        & Programming
Avon, OH  44011        ---===)))>>> JFB2@PO.CWRU.EDU
From: steinmar@blaze.rutgers.edu (Dan Steinmark)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: rolling a car
Date: 9 Apr 92 18:47:31 GMT
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.
To: fwk@cbnewsh.cb.att.com

In article <1992Apr6.200906.29231@cbnewsh.cb.att.com> fwk@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (f.w.kerfoot..iii) writes:

> From my observations, it is difficult or impossible to roll most
> street cars by sliding them sideways. Exceptions include:
> 
> -Suzuki Samari's (as previously noted), some Jeeps, and other 
> exceptionally high and narrow cars
> 
> -anything which can "trip" the car as it slides- candidates might be
> curbs, anything soft which could build up in front of the wheels,
> [...]
> Frank Kerfoot
> fwk\@homxc.att.com

Most street _cars_ (as opposed to SUV's and the like) will tend to
slide rather than roll _in_steady_state_cornering_.  However, many cars
with relatively high CG's (or narrow width) and with low roll stiffness
can certainly be "coaxed" into rolling by going hard one way and then
hard the other way, thereby setting up a pendulum effect.

     -Dan
-----------
Dan Steinmark   steinmar@paul.rutgers.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: pac@turing.acs.virginia.edu (Peter A. Clausen)
Subject: Re: Speedometer sending unit, where is it?
Organization: The Turing Project, Charlottesville Virginia.
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 16:55:29 GMT

In article <92097.212358KHAAV@ASUACAD.BITNET> KHAAV@ASUACAD.BITNET (Bob Kaneshige) writes:
>If your dash is anything like a vettes , you may be out of luck.  I'm
>assuming that the GTA came with a 700-R4 OD trans.  The vehicle speed
>sensor is in the tail end of the trans (driver side, there should be a
>wiring harness attached to it).  It's a permanent magnet generator and
>using a gear connected to the transmission, it generates about 4,000
>pulses per mile to the dash.  The electronic dash converts this to MPH
>and also signals the ECM to control the convertor clutch.  The above info
>is for a vette, should be somewhat similar for a GTA.  Did you swap the
>original trans with a 350 or did they come stock with a 350?  You may
>need all of the related parts from the GTA to make the electronic dash work;
>ECM, chip, speed sensor assembly, etc..
>Good luck and let us know how you made out...
>
>  Bob

Everything in the dash is working right now, except for the speedo.  My '85
Firebird originally had a 5-speed manual with the 2.8 V6.  I swapped to a
5.7 V8 and changed to the TH-350 at the same time.  The factory speedo cable
screwed right into the tail piece.

Yes, the GTA had the 700-R4, but it and the engine have already been pulled,
so I have just the chassis left to get parts fr.

I'm wondering if the 700-R4 unit will bolt into a TH-350 tail end?  If not, I
hope to be able to somehow rig it to thspeedo cable at the dash end.

I took the instrument cluster apart and noticed that the speedo says it takes
1001 rev. (pulses?) per mile.  I connected 12 volts to it, and feed a 5 V p-p
square wave to the speedo input.  It worked fine and I was getting a nice 1:1
frequency/speed relationship.  eg, 50 Hz -> 50 mph, 100Hz -> 100 mph.

Peter
From: sheriffp@Software.Mitel.COM (Peter Sheriff)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Clear coat.
Date: 13 Apr 92 18:16:03 GMT
Organization: Mitel. Kanata (Ontario). Canada.


     I need to do a small repair on a door finished with clear coat. The
can of clear coat is printed with a warning that it may `lift' new paint.
How long do you have to leave the paint to dry before it is `old' enough
not to be lifted by the clear coat?

                                Pete
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bp816@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Stuart Krivis)
Subject: Rust Busters
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio, (USA)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 92 01:28:33 GMT


Does anyone know anything about the various electronic rust pre-
venters that are on the market. They make claims of   somehow
charging the metal and inhibiting rust formation. I'm not con-
vinced that they work. Does anyone have first hand info?
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.driving
From: tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen)
Subject: Re: Rolling a car, general questions
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 92 04:23:05 GMT

In article <1992Apr14.145854.12072@news.cs.brandeis.edu> andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang) writes:
>The best way to approach any of these issues of "when a car will do
>this under these severe circumstances" is to take a course at a
>driving school.  Of course I don't mean the schools for teenagers
>learning to drive and I don't necessarily mean Bondurant or Jim
>Russell.  In New England there are several clubs, notable Corvettes of
>Massachusetts, BMW Car Club of A, and Porsche Club of A, that rent a
>racetrack and have several experienced (I believe they're also
>certified SCCA) instructors talk about how to drive fast properly and
>safely.  After the talk there is usually some demonstration in a
>student car and then the school really begins.  Two or three classes
>are formed and they take to the track.  The track is nice and safe
>with lots of area for spinning off, all the cars are going in the same
>direction so there won't be any head-ons, you also know that the
>driver ahead of you will not slow you down (even if you have a faster
>car) because you have all been told to 1) let others by if you are
>slower and 2) wait for others to let you by if you are faster.  You
>just drive the track as fast as you want.  You get 10-20 shots at the
>same turns in a short amount of time so you can tune your driving and
>your reactions.  Look up car clubs in your yellow pages.  The cost is
>usually quite low ($50) and they always welcome new people, even if
>they don't have the same car.
>

$50?  where?  the only one i ever did was at lime rock and it
cost a big bundle.  i assume that for these, you have to supply your
own car... but it's worth it to me.  can somebody tell me the
names of some places around palo alto and also around d.c. (where
i'll be working during the summer)?

-teddy
From: avk@hafnium.cchem.berkeley.edu (Tony Konashenok)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: What's up with my brakes?
Date: 17 Apr 1992 07:05:12 GMT
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: hafnium.cchem.berkeley.edu

 In my '79 T-bird, the brakes exhibit a strange symptom. It
looks like air in the system (spongy pedal, warning light on)
but happens only once or twice on the 3rd-5th minute of ride.
A few hours of parking restore the initial condition (the 
trouble happens again after 3-5 min). What is my problem?

-- 
Tony Konashenok   avk@hafnium.cchem.berkeley.edu   (510)527-7524 (home)
University of California, Berkeley                 (510)642-5831 (office)

Strauss research group, Latimer Hall, UC Berkeley, Berkeley CA 94720, U.S.A.
From: iceman@vipunen.hut.fi (Joni Siltaniemi)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: HILFE!!!
Date: 12 Apr 92 17:36:02 GMT
Reply-To: iceman@vipunen.hut.fi (Joni Siltaniemi)
Organization: Helsinki University of Technology

Achtung BMW-drivers in Germany!!!

I have an old BMW 315. I am coming to Germany in summer and I'm going
to have the "engine" replaced there.

I have thought of 1.8i, 2.0, or 2.0i. For tax and insurance policies here I
don't need bigger engines.

Anyway, it must be a straight-four...

From where should I ask for used engines ? How much would approximately
cost such engines?

If you have any ideas, please e-mail me



-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
*		             Joni Siltaniemi                                  *
*		iceman@vipunen.hut.fi, s37914l@kaira.hut.fi		      *
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1992 14:44:48 GMT
Subject: Re: Ford 150 Blues
Organization: Hewlett Packard Company, Spokane, Wa.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

I think your problems are related to the clutch, not the transmission.
The transmission is difficult to shift because the clutch is not working
properly.

For some reason, the clutch is not able to disengage.  I suspect either
a bad slave cylinder (but this would leak fluid), a bad master cylinder
(which leaks internally, but not necessarily to the outside), our the
clutch itself is bad, and won't disengage even though everything else
is bad.

If it is possible to observe the action of the slave cylinder, do so
while someone else works the clutch pedal.  Look for smooth movement
through it whole range.  Have you helper hold in the clutch pedal for
a minute or two, and make sure that the slave cylinder doesn't start
returning (due to a leak or bad master cylinder).

If all this looks good, go out and by yourself a new clutch.


Donald Borowski    WA6OMI    Hewlett-Packard, Spokane Division
"Angels are able to fly because they take themselves so lightly."
                                       -G.K. Chesterton

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.driving
From: kevins@ishark.intel.com (Kevin Smith)
Subject: inexpensive driving schools
Reply-To: kevins@ishark.intel.com (Kevin Smith)
Organization: WCDP
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 23:55:34 GMT

I took one in here in Portland, OR at the beginning of March that cost
$95.  You supplied your own car, and I felt that this was very well run
and that my instructor was very good.  It was sponsored by
Team Continental, a local racing club.  They also have one scheduled in
October sometime, but I can't find my application right now.  I found
out about this via one of Bob Kehoe's posts.  The driving master
for the school was Greg Bell, and he may also be here on the net, I'm not
sure.
From: jcyuhn@brchh467.bnr.ca (James Yuhn)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: SHO Transmission oil capacity
Date: 7 Apr 92 14:12:45 GMT
Reply-To: jcyuhn@brchh467.bnr.ca (James Yuhn)

In article <1992Mar30.163929.8043@engage.pko.dec.com>, sontakke@helix.enet.dec.com (Vikas Sontakke) writes:
|> 
|> Before I decide to order Redline MTL directly from the manufacturer (alas, no
|> cheaper sources were found), can someone tell me exactly how many quarts do I
|> need?
|>
|> If you have personally replaced the transmission oil in SHO, can you tell me
|> how many qts does it take, under 3 or over 3?
|>
|> Vikas Sontakke		Digital Equipment Corporation, Maynard MA.

   It's under three, way under three. I've changed my SHOs transmission 
   fluid twice, and never even got close to needing three full quarts. 
   Be sure to do a thorough job when draining the transmission. If you
   only raise the front of the car, you'll discourage much of the fluid
   from draining.
  
   Jim
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
From: jmansfie@zeus.calpoly.edu (Jason Mansfield)
Subject: more on 500ci eldo
Organization: California Polytechnic State University, San Luis Obispo
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 03:29:26 GMT

	Just a couple more things.  The choke hasn't been working right ever
since I rebuilt the carb the last time.  It seems to stay in one place so
I set it so that it's always off so it should drive like it's working, but
it's hard to start.  Could it be the electrical connector? (it's electrically
heated).  I checked to see if there is a spark or something by pulling off
the connector and placing it next to ground, but there was no spark.  The
engine was already warm, though, so I don't know if that test was correct.
Any clues?  What's the best way to test it and what should it be doing exactly?
	Also, I had another idea on the lack of power problem.  Could it
be bad lifters?  Do they go bad before everything else?  How could I check
them?
	Thanx for any replies,

	- Jason - jmansfie@athena.calpoly.edu - The Cadillac Man -
Organization: Arizona State University
Date: Monday, 6 Apr 1992 21:23:58 MST
From: Bob Kaneshige <KHAAV@ASUACAD.BITNET>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Speedometer sending unit, where is it?
Distribution: world

If your dash is anything like a vettes , you may be out of luck.  I'm
assuming that the GTA came with a 700-R4 OD trans.  The vehicle speed
sensor is in the tail end of the trans (driver side, there should be a
wiring harness attached to it).  It's a permanent magnet generator and
using a gear connected to the transmission, it generates about 4,000
pulses per mile to the dash.  The electronic dash converts this to MPH
and also signals the ECM to control the convertor clutch.  The above info
is for a vette, should be somewhat similar for a GTA.  Did you swap the
original trans with a 350 or did they come stock with a 350?  You may
need all of the related parts from the GTA to make the electronic dash work;
ECM, chip, speed sensor assembly, etc..
Good luck and let us know how you made out...

  Bob
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kevin@taronga.taronga.com (Kevin Brown)
Subject: Re: Octane reduces pinging (was Re: Fuel octane versus power)
Reply-To: kevin@taronga.taronga.com (Kevin Brown)
Organization: Minimal.
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 19:10:42 GMT

In article <3380042@hpldsla.sid.hp.com> tonya@hpldsla.sid.hp.com (Tony Arnerich) writes:
>
>High Octane = difficult to ignite. It does not equal more energy available.
>
>Only one manufacturer that I know of (maybe there's more by now) does get 
>more power from higher octane fuel. On the Turbo SAAB's of the last 5 years
>or so, the turbo boost is increased until the knock sensors detect pre-
>ignition, then back off a little bit. This cycle is continuously repeated.

I would also think there are some companies producing engines that advance
the spark to the point that the knock sensors go off, and then back off.
Much in the same way the SAAB does but playing with a different parameter.
These systems will also produce more power with higher octane gasoline.

>The effect of this is to burn as much fuel as the cylinders can hold before
>bad things happen. So in effect, just as any turbo will make the engine
>appear to be of larger displacement, the SAAB turbo engine gets "as big as
>it can", automatically tracking the octane rating of the fuel it gets.

You know, I have to wonder just what happens if the knock sensor dies.
Is there some sort of interlock to prevent your engine from knocking
itself to pieces if the sensor dies?  Because if not, I'd be somewhat
wary of a system that used this principle...

>tonya@hpldsla.sid.hp.com


		Kevin Brown (kevin@taronga.taronga.com)