HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: alopez-o@neumann.uwaterloo.ca (Alex Lopez-Ortiz)
Subject: Cutting with a Router?
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 23:15:31 GMT


It occured to me that it may be posible to cut 1" wood with the right
bit using a Router. 

Is this true or is it unreasonable?

Thanks


-- 
Alex Lopez-Ortiz                              alopez-o@maytag.UWaterloo.ca
Deparment of Computer Science                       University of Waterloo
Waterloo, Ontario                                                   Canada
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Incra or Leigh?
Date: 1 Sep 92 15:56:13 GMT
Organization: LLNL

In article <1992Aug31.204901.12486@bmerh85.bnr.ca>, wedge@bnr.ca (Rick Wedge) writes:
> 
> With all the posts about the Incra jig, I'm wondering if that is the most 
> popular jig out there.  Is anybody using the Leigh dovetail jig?  How does
> it compare to the Incra?  I think it's a bit more expensive, is it worth it? 
> 
> Rick Wedge
> 
> 

I've  got both, and both do exactly what their makers claim.  However, neither
will make a poor woodworker into a miracle dovetailer, since both require
attention to detail and careful setup.  I've found that the Incra is quicker
to use because what you are doing is more obvious.  One of the after-market
fences with sliding fixture is essential, so I'd suggest adding the cost of
that to the basic Incra cost.  Also, their book and templates are useful and
you may want to cost that too.  The Leigh requires careful thought and
setup in my experience, and for a few through dovetails I've found that my
bandsaw is quicker.  If I were going to make many drawers, I'd use the
Leigh.  Even so, you need to use extreme care in clamping each workpiece
to make sure you are doing everything consistently.

In answer to your question "is it worth it?":  I think the Incra is worth
buying for both your table saw and your router table just on general
principles.  Accurate incremental positioning is useful in more situations
than I care to cite.  As for the Leigh, if you do a lot of dovetails, it's
worth it.  If you just want it, and have to have it, then it's worth it
just to break free of our Puritan heritage.  Buy something you want but don't
really need.

Gary

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: silver@fraser.sfu.ca (Craig Silver)
Subject: Looking for a Manufacturers Agent
Organization: Simon Fraser University, Burnaby, B.C., Canada
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 07:26:56 GMT

        I am looking for a Manufactorers Agent interested in 
promoting a new wobble-type dado with magnetic fratures.  It cuts 
3/16'' - 13/16'' in one pass up to 5000 R.P.M.  Please call or email 
if you are interested or if you know of where/whom I can contact.  
Thank you.

-- 

------------------------------------------------------------------------
Craig Silver	                	    Simon Fraser University
silver@sfu.ca (Internet)	            Burnaby, B.C., Canada
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: M21605@mwvm.mitre.org
Subject: Re: BANDSAW INFO REQUIRED
Organization: The MITRE Corporation, McLean VA 22102
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 19:18:41 GMT

In article <3760@ecicrl.ocunix.on.ca>
clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis) writes:
 
>
>In article <1992Aug27.144552.3593@mksol.dseg.ti.com> landers@wilma.dseg.ti.com writes:
>>I recently (about 3 months ago) got myself a Delta 14" BS.  I am VERY happy
>>with it.
>
>>I thought about the Taiwan brands, but I wasn't sure about the quality, as
>>most of them seem (to me) to be reverse-engineering jobs of Delta and others (by
>>this I mean that they bought a Delta, measured it, and started building, without
>>any of the original design thought process or tolerancing specifications).
>>Now, before I get too many flames on this, I know that I'm not being entirely
>>fair, but it was enough for me to spend the extra money on something I can
>>keep for a while and get parts for.  It was also important to me to be able to
>>go to my local hardware/home-center/woodworking stores to see more than a picture
>>in a catalog (even if I didn't buy from them).
>
>I'm not completely sure about the Delta 14" (it seems to be one of the older
>designs), but Delta has many of their low to mid-range tools built by those
>very same Taiwan companies.  What you think is "reverse engineered" is often
>the very same tool off the very same assembly line - differing only in paint
>job or minor details like type of power switch.  Now, Delta may be doing
>*some* Q/A, and selecting the better quality ones, but that doesn't necessarily
>mean that any off-brand unit you see is a Delta reject - it could just as easily
>be a unit surplus to Delta's ordering level.
>
>Rexon is one of the largest companies, and a lot of its tools end up with
>Delta nameplates.  I have a Rexon scroll-saw, and the only difference between
>it and the Delta is paint job and nameplate.
>
>Which also implies that you can use Delta as a source of parts for many of the
>Taiwanese units.
>--
>Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
>Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
>Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
True, Delta does put there name on Tiawanese trash, but even Powermatic is
marketing a junk line now.  This is no reflection on the 14" Delta bandsaw,
which is the standard of the industry.  None of the Tiawanese stuff is even
close.  I pity the fellow who is trying to do a decent job using a Jet, or
some other Asian special.  Nothing is more frustrating than working with
cheapo tools.  I should add for the record, the Delta 14" is US made and
the castings are done in Wisconsin.  Most of Delta's US made tools use
Brazilian castings made using tropical rainforest wood for the coking
process.  If you are like me, you might want to check with the factory
on the origin of the castings on the product you are considering before
unknowingly helping to defoliate the rainforest and unemploy our countrymen.
I better sign off now before I provoke a riot!
 
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 31 Aug 1992 09:39:12 PDT
From:         BALDWINJ@SJSUVM1.BITNET
Subject:      Help w/ paste wood filler
              31 Aug 1992 13:54:42 GMT from <SDOGGETT@CMSA.GMR.COM>

From: Jeff Baldwin
Most paste wood filler is a combination of ground quartz (called "silex" or
archaically "ground earth), a binder (usually a laquer or varnish), color and
asolvent (usually naptha). I am a luthier and use filler on mahogany to fill
poresbefore lacquering. I have never experienced the problems you describe. I
would guess the problem revolves around the amount of time the filler is
allowed to main on the surface or the method of removal is causing the
scratches to the surface. Ideally, the filler should be dried to the point
thatit can be easily removed from the surface by rubbing across the grain with
burlap. This is usually when the surface is hazey. The filler is about the
consistancy of a butter cake icing at this point. If you wait longer, the
filler becomes hard, like a chocolate fudge and the increased pressure
necessary to remove it would grind quartz into the surface ot the wood. The
removal should not require rubbing but buffing the excess off. The burlap cuts
the filler off at the surface of the wood. If the filler is too wet brisk
buffing will lift the filler from the pores, if the filler is just right the
filler will be cut level with the surface, if to hard, excessive pressure
wouldbe necessary to remove the filler. I suggest making a test panel to
practice the filler application. Try to remove the filler with less pressure
and adjust the dry time(read shorten) the drying time until you get
satisfactory results.
From: erickson@taurus.cs.nps.navy.mil (David Erickson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Water and Wood: A beginner's question
Date: 2 Sep 92 23:04:41 GMT
Reply-To: erickson@cs.nps.navy.mil (David Erickson)
Organization: Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey CA

In article <1992Sep2.175834.14893@hubcap.clemson.edu> hubcap@hubcap.clemson.edu (System Janitor) writes:
>
>The folks around here who run the local lumber mill (and their family
>has run it for 75-100 years) call quarter sawn ``rift sawn''. Maybe that
>is what you are remembering (rip really = rift).
>
>?
>
>-Mike

Rift sawn and quarter sawn are not the same.  Both are cut from quartered
logs, but the quarter sawn is cut with the point down, and the rift sawn
is cut with a flat side down (both assuming that the saw is a vertical
bandsaw).

 
                          *********
Quarter-sawn:          *** | | | | ***
                      *| | | | | | | |*
                      *| | | | | | | | *
                        *| | | | | |*
                          *| | | |*
                            *| |*
                              *
           
Rift-sawn:


			***
			* | |*
			* | | |*
			* | | | |*
			* | | | | *
			* | | | | |*
			* | | | | | *
			*************

-Dave Erickson
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: SYSGAM@SUVM.SYR.EDU (Glenn A. Malling)
Subject: Re: Black Lacquer finish?
Organization: Syracuse University
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 92 14:01:22 EDT

In article <1992Aug24.202514.26573@cbnewsl.cb.att.com>
piz@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (G G ZIPFEL) writes:
 
>        Is there a "Black Lacquer" product?
>
>        Help!
 
If what you're looking for is the black piano finish it's just
black nitro-cellulous lacquer.  See you local auto paint store.
It's the same stuff they put on GM cars before the acrylics
became common.
 
Glenn A. Malling (SYSGAM@SUVM) or sysgam@suvm.acs.syr.edu
Syracuse University Computing Services   +1 (315) 443-4111
Machinery Hall  Syracuse, New York 13244-1260
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: price@ab00.larc.nasa.gov (Mac Price)
Subject: Re: Delta EMS (was Re: Incra jigs)
Organization: NASA Langley Research Center, Hampton, VA  USA
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 16:17:27 GMT

In article <1992Sep2.151636.18188@monster.saic.com>, tomj@monster.saic.com (Tom Johnson) writes:
|> In article <BtyE7t.2Ax@news.larc.nasa.gov> price@ab00.larc.nasa.gov (Mac Price) writes:
|> >
|> >BTW, I use my EMS on my Delta Unisaw with 52" Unifence.
|> >
|> >Mac Price
|> 
|> Does the EMS work on other fences?  How about other brands of saws?
|> 
|> 

I've had several email responses asking the same question.  I suggested to
them that they call Delta at 800-438-2486 and ask.  I would guess it would
work with some, but not others.  It should work on any Unifence - even on a different saw, as I see it.

I also had one response that told me it can be turned off by pressing both
the zero and the mode buttons simultaneously.  I haven't tried it yet, but
that would eliminate my biggest complaint about it.  A Delta dealer told me
when I bought it that it could not be turned off(?).  Of course, it would
still have to be recalibrated, but that is no big deal.

Mac Price
price@ab00.larc.nasa.gov
From: hgs@wdl1.wdl.loral.com (Harry Salvini)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Spray painting illegal?
Date: 27 Aug 92 00:07:23 GMT
Organization: Loral Western Development Labs

In article <1992Aug21.162835.3232@titan.ksc.nasa.gov>, myjak@titan.ksc.nasa.gov (Michael D. Myjak) writes:
>...
> Any way, the latest bit of aggitation he has caused me is that he
> called our local fire martial and told them that I had a (and I quote)
> "... a spray painting outfit..." at my current (rental) residence and
> the fire martial (by law) came to my current residence to verify the
> complaint. "Check it out" so to speak. Mind you, all I do is use spray
> cans and a few hand-applied finishes; in my new place, I have the shop
> and garage plumbed for compressed air lines, and have reserved a space
> in my single car garage (with addequate ventilation, mind you) for a
> spray booth.  I intend to spray finish some furniture later on and
> possibly something as large as an automobile... but nothing on a
> regular basis.
> 
> Apparently, this is all illegal. In fact, when I asked for
> clarification as to what, exactly, was legal, I was informed that "no
> form of spray painting in a residential neighborhood" was legal.  So,
> what gives? Joe Blo can walk into a local crapsman store and purchase
> a portable compressor and spray gun and ... what? break the law if he
> uses it? 
> 
> Has anybody else run into this situation? Is it truely "illegal" to
> spray paint any finish (either air sprayer or mechnical sprayer) in
> your area? 

For a while, in the San Francisco Bay area, the "Air Quality Control
Board" had banned any and all spray painting, due to excessive pollutants
entering the atmosphere.

Several of the local auto body places were put out of business, and many
companies were put WAY behind schedule.

I don't know all the details, I'm trying to find out.

This is a weird situation, to say the least.  Any one else with knowledge?

+----------------------------------------------------------------------+
| O O  hgs@wdl1.wdl.loral.com -- Kathy's Hubby & Jonathan's Daddy  O O |
|  v    BTW: LORAL doesn't have anything to do with my opinions.    v  |
| \_/              I came up with them all on my own.              \_/ |
+----------------------------------------------------------------------+
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 28 Aug 1992 08:58:10 EST
From:         "Lawrence E. Rondot" <RONDOT@IPFWVM.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: CAREFUL WITH THAT PROPELLER!!!!
              28 Aug 1992 00:49:06 GMT from <ericb@MICROSOFT.COM>

On Fri, 28 Aug 1992 00:49:06 GMT Eric Brown said:
>David Esan writes:
>|Okay, so a 3.5 inch panel raising bit is dangerous.  What are the
>alternatives?
>|
>|I have a new kitchen I want to redo, and thought about the 3.5 in bit
>|myself.  It give a nicer profile than a table saw.
>
>Byrom make a series of panel raising router bits that have the profile
>going parallel to the shaft rather than perpendicular to it.
>
>Note that Byrom is (has) going out of business, so you may need to hunt
>around to find bits like this.
>

Woodcraft has 5 different "Safety-Raiser" panel raising bits in their catalog:
    Italian Provincial, Aspen Ogee, Chardonay Ogee Bead, Calf. Straight,
    and New England Cove.

They run $79.95 ea or $360 for the set of five.

These bits have .5" shanks with a max cutting depth of 1.5"

Woodcraft can be reached at +1 800 225 1153 (orders)
                            +1 800 535 4482 (customer service)

I have not bought anything from these folks, but another guy in my office
has and he seems to like the company.

Larry
Rondot@IPFWVM.Bitnet    -or-    Rondot@SMTPLink.IPFW.Indiana.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: Wood for drain board?
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 21:23:26 GMT

StevePinnDick writes
> In article <HOLLEN.92Sep1092346@peg.megatek.UUCP>, hollen@megatek.UUCP (Dion  
Hollenbeck) writes:
> |> I would like to make a wooden dish drainer. 
> |> {...}
> {...}
> 	Wood Qualitities
> 		+ Water Resistance
> 		+ Decay Resistance
> 		+ Non Toxic
> 	Consider - White Oak, Redwood, Teak, African Mahagony, Maple (if the  
time spent wet is not excessive). 

Maple is actually fairly low in terms of decay resistance. 

The naturally oily woods, like teak, bocote, cocobolo, etc. are inherently 
somewhat water resistant, but you have problems with gluing, some finishes, and 
finding plantation-grown sources for some of these exotics. I'd also add 
stability to one of the critera for selection as the wood will constantly be 
going through wide environmental swings.

Interestingly enough, stores like Crate and Barrel sell wooden dish drainers 
that appear to be made of a somewhat stringy, light (in color and weight)
wood. Definitely not waterproof (if you drip some water onto it the wood
absorbs the wood). I have no idea how long these things last, but I doubt 
it's more than a few years of daily usage at best.

> {...}
> 	Finish Qualities
> 		+ Waterproof
> 		+ Non Toxic
> 	Consider - Salad Bowl finish, Walnut Oil.

Also consider pure tung oil. I made a baby changing table out of maple and  
finished it with a few coats of tung oil. I'm surprised at how water resistant  
this finish appears to be: when we sponge it down, the water beads up like on a  
newly waxed car. I would second the recommendation for salad bowl finish.

The Crate and Barrel style drainer isn't glued at all - it's got a long rod
though the ends of the slats (the thing folds up flat).


> For glue I would use epoxy and joinery biscuits. 

I don't think that epoxy (or resinorcal for that matter) has enough liquid type 
stuff (how's that for technical nomenclature ;^)) in it to soak into the 
biscuits and make them swell up. Titebond II is itself water based, I believe, 
and it does do the right thing for biscuits. But, depending on the amount
of water soaking going on, it may not be water resistant enough.
From: gringort@wsl.dec.com (Joel Gringorten)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Water and Wood: A beginner's question
Date: 2 Sep 92 16:58:42 GMT
Reply-To: gringort@wsl.dec.com (Joel Gringorten)
Organization: DEC Western Software Lab

In article <Sep.2.12.28.59.1992.19161@pilot.njin.net>, ron@pilot.njin.net (Ron Natalie) writes:
|> >>I'n new to woodworking too.  Could you please explain what quarter-sawn stock is?
|> 
|> > It's a sawmill technique. They first cut the log into quarters...[omitted]
|> 
|> Actually, that's not a very accurate description of the process.

Wrong.  It is the definitive description of the process.  Look it up in
the dictionary, or check with a sawmill or knowlegable wood distributor.
(I've done both.) 

|> Suffice it to say that "quarter sawn wood is taken with the board
|> cut perpendicular to the rings, "plain sawn" wood is taken parallel
|> to the rings.  Even "Plain Sawing" a tree will yield a couple of
|> quarter sawn boards (the ones closest to the middle of the tree).

Not true.  Quatersawn (one word, btw) wood means wood that was derived
from quatersawing.  Plain sawing might yield a couple of pieces of 
vertical grained wood, but then again, it might not, depending
on whether the cut for a face of the board ends up passing through the 
center of the log.  It may contain vertical grain, but it isn't
quartersawn.

One can argue the semantics about whether a plain sliced board from 
the center of a tree contains vertical grained wood or not,  but one 
cannot argue the definition of the word "quatersawn."

-joel
From: smb@ulysses.att.com (Steven Bellovin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta EMS (was Re: Incra jigs)
Date: 2 Sep 92 22:52:34 GMT
Distribution: na

In article <BtyL94.6A7@news.larc.nasa.gov>, price@ab00.larc.nasa.gov (Mac Price) writes:
> |> Does the EMS work on other fences?  How about other brands of saws?

Delta sells an adapter kit for use with the Biesmeyer fence.

> I also had one response that told me it can be turned off by pressing both
> the zero and the mode buttons simultaneously.  I haven't tried it yet, but
> that would eliminate my biggest complaint about it.  A Delta dealer told me
> when I bought it that it could not be turned off(?).  Of course, it would
> still have to be recalibrated, but that is no big deal.

If I recall correctly, the manual says that that doesn't save any power.

I suspect that my problem with the EMS was leaving it on in a cold garage
all winter.  Using cold batteries stresses them, I'm told, which is why
they didn't last the year that the manual said they would.  In a heated
shop, I suspect I'd never have had any problems.
From: wilson@schaefer.math.wisc.edu (Bob Wilson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: fence suggestions?
Date: 28 Aug 92 12:19:44 GMT
Reply-To: wilson@math.wisc.edu (Bob Wilson)
Organization: Univ. of Wisconsin Dept. of Mathematics

The FWW book titled something like _Power_Saws_and_Planers_ has a
reprint of an article comparing most of the competing fences. The
article is a couple of years old but most of the fences seem not to
have changed. It includes at least Vega, Biesmeyer, Parallok,
Excalibur, Unifence, so far as my feeble memory recalls.
In addition to actual usage tests with the fences it comments on the
fact that some can, some can't be used for ripping hold-downs
depending on whether the back end of the fence is held from pushing
up.
Bob Wilson
wilson@math.wisc.edu
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 1 Sep 1992 07:12:11 EDT
From:         FABY000 <FABY@NMUMUS.BITNET>
Subject:      Incra jigs

I have the incra jig and used it to make several dovetails for a chest
of drawers.  I viewed the video they sell and went into the shop and
spent one entire weekend setting up the jig to make dovetails for the
chest.  Once I had everything set up properly it worked very well.  A
number of years ago I used the Sears dovetail template for the router
for two chests and after getting it set up properly it worked fairly
well for me. In comparison I think the incra jig is better and permits
more variation.  The next time I make dovetails I think I will try the
hand cut system as described in several recent articles in magazines.
It seems to me the handcut dovetails can be made in any manner desired
as far as spacing etc.  It may take longer but "enjoy a job well done."
Also, I purchased a set of Byrum router bits for use with the incra jig
and four of the bits broke when I was in the process of setting up the
jig for making the dovetails. I used oak and maybe it was my fault the
bits broke but is suspect the bits were defective.  The very small
diameter portion of the dovetail bit is fragile and needs to be properly
temperedOne final comment.  I suggest waiting until youhave the incra
jig and template booke and then order the specific bit you want to use.
The templates do not provide for every possible bit size.  Roger Barry
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: grants@syacus.acus.oz.au (Grant Sayer)
Subject: Purchasing Planes in Salt Lake City Area ?
Summary: where to buy from
Keywords: stanley planes, purchasing , Salt LAke City
Organization: ACUS, Australian Centre for Unisys Software, Sydney AUST.
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 03:26:19 GMT

Hi,
	Just q quick question... Can someone recommend a store/supplier to
purchase Stanley Planes (No 5 & 7) located in/near Salt Lake City ?
I have some friends travelling to the USA and they offered to bring
back some tools.


Thanks In Advance



-- 
Grant Sayer                   ACSnet : grants@syacus.acus.oz
Ph : +61 2 390-1339         Internet : grants@syacus.acus.OZ.AU
Fax: +61 2 390-1391             UUCP : uunet!munnari!syacus.acus.oz.au!grants
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stevenj@microsoft.com (Steven Johnson)
Subject: Re: CAREFUL WITH THAT PROPELLER!!!!
Date: 25 Aug 92 16:21:36 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp.
Summary: Panel raising planes?

In article <1992Aug24.141400.28206@evolving.com>, mmf@evolving.com (Mark Frazier) writes:
> 
> 
> I'm in the market for a good panel raising plane now. Something that will
> let me hear my Mozart while working.
> 
> MMF - The Red Oak Baron.


Can some of the antique tool experts out there recommend a good panel re
raising plane?  (i.e. Stanley # X)?  Are there different varieties?
How do the planes work -- do they register to one side of the panel
and have an sloped iron, thus giving a raised panel with only straight
bevels, or are there planes that can do curved bevels as well?   (Is
this clear?)


From: paulw@hpspdla.spd.HP.COM (Paul Welch)
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 19:47:12 GMT
Subject: Help Finding Hardware ?
Organization: HP Palo Alto Fabrication Center
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

I need help finding a special hardware item.  I'm looking for a 
decorative edge strip to apply to the exposed edge of the shelves
in my kitchen cabinets.  The edge strip needs to have a "U" shape,
with sharp corners, of course;  like this   |_| .  Now here's the
hard part: it must be polished brass, or at least look like polished
brass.  I have tried all of the major hardware stores in my area,
I've looked through all the magazines I can think of, and still,
no luck.  

All help is appreciated.

Paul