HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: genocide@hale.cts.com (Gary Danko)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: capacitors
Date: 9 Nov 92 21:07:40 GMT
Organization: Hale Telecommunications Inc.

walkerr@bigwpi.WPI.EDU (Robert A Walker) writes:

> In article <gilchr.721389283@ee.ualberta.ca> gilchr@ee.ualberta.ca (Andrew Gi
> 
> >That gives your -3dB points at 100Hz and 200Hz respectively (approx.)
> 
> 	Please excuse my ignorance, but what exactly does -3db mean, what does
> -12db mean, which one is better, or is it a matter of personal preference,
> I know what a db is but i though that the more decibles (sp?) the louder it
> was,  am i lost or what?  

i missed the original message but 100hz is a low freq range for speakers. 
db gain is better if higher. my fosgates get about 91db.
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: foo@netcom.com (Mark Hall)
Subject: Re: Proton amps in Crutchfield?
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 16:40:27 GMT

In article <1992Nov5.003400.7499@eng.ufl.edu> brian@creek.eel.ufl.edu (Brian Gentry) writes:
) If this amp trully 
)won't clip then try this simple test:  Play a CD that is recorded at a high 
)level like the jet section of "The Digital Domain" or Also Sprach Zarthrustra.
)Then turn the volume control up until it won't move any more.  If the sound is 
)still "crystal clear" then the amp isn't clipping and Proton must have some
)massive compression circuitry built into the preamp section of this amp.
)Otherwise, this amp will likely destroy the tweeters in the speakers it
)is connected to.

   yes, try this and tell us what happens.  8^)
From: hhtra@usho72.hou281.chevron.com (T.M.Haddock)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Crossover Questions
Date: 10 Nov 92 22:56:42 GMT
Organization: Chevron


 If I have a midbass that has a range of 50-3000 Hz and a tweeter
 with a range of 3000-22000k Hz, would it be okay/safe to use an
 active crossover point of 3000 Hz with 18 dB slopes?

 If not, what crossover point and/or slope would be okay/safe?

 Or do I need speakers that have ranges that overlap some to avoid 
 breakup or distortion problems.
 
 Thanks in advance.

 TRAVIS
 hhtra@usho21.hou281.chevron.com
 
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: asun@athena.mit.edu (Sunredi Admadjaja)
Subject: Acura Legend upgrade
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 21:38:03 GMT

Hi,

I have a 1991 Acura Legend LS sedan.  The stock stereo is an Acura/Bose system. 
I have added an Alpine CD changer with no problem (stock head unit controls
Alpine changers).  Now, I am thinking of of putting a modest amp and better
speakers while keeping the stock head unit.  I have been told that since my stock
system is an Acura/Bose system, I can't upgrade it at all.  Is this true?  What
if I use a line level converter on the outputs of my stock head unit?  I am
leaning on Rockford Series 1 460 for the amp and BA 797 for the rear speakers and
BA 861 for the front speakers.  
Does anyone know how I can upgrade my system while keeping the stock head unit?
Please send replies to me personally at asun@athena.mit.edu as I do not read this
net very often.
Thank you.

Sunredi Admadjaja
From: system@hale.cts.com (System Administration)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Wanted: Rockford Fosgate Specs 
Date: Sat, 07 Nov 92 12:05:46 PST
Organization: Hale Telecommunications Inc.

 
Howdy--

We use an old copy of TERM-I (A beta actually) that our rep gave us,
it has the specs for the RF line in it, but there is no way
to dump the values out of the database.

Does anyone have the specs for the current line?
I have a few, but don't trust them as they give results that 
vary from my expectations.

The Punch and Pro series are of most interest, the Rocker series would be 
nice, but not important in that they are used in factory made boxes.
From: mgarber@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Max D Garber)
Subject: ++Paper Pyle Specs.-HELP!++
Organization: The Ohio State University
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 15:22:10 GMT

I have two 12" Paper Pyles mounted in a three-way Ultimate Speaker box, with a 
100 watt Sherwood running to each.  I have recently aquired 4 more 12" Paper 
Pyles and would like to build myself a new box.  I would like to incorporate 4 
of the Pyles in this box-but need the specs on th Paper Pyle 12s.

I need to know:
     Air Space needed
     size of portage
     Best mounting position (ie. facing front, back, up)

I would like to know:
     Max. Wattage they can handle
     The wattage that will make them SOUND the best

Please email me if you can help me out on this one.
-- 
THE HYPEMAN.
1983 Pontiac 2000 SE   1983 Honda Nighthawk 650   DECEMBER 12,1992
   "BABY BOOOM"             MINT CONDITION         "TIE THE KNOT"
 'SYSTEM FOR SALE'            "FOR SALE"
From: grichard@swimming.cis.ohio-state.edu (Golden Richard III)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Small subwoofer box for RX-7
Date: 5 Nov 92 05:39:55 GMT
Organization: The Ohio State University Dept. of Computer and Info. Science

In article <Bx80vJ.8yK@cantua.canterbury.ac.nz> deanaj@elec.canterbury.ac.nz (A. J. Dean) writes:
>Golden Richard III (grichard@swimming.cis.ohio-state.edu) wrote:
>: give up a lot of space, since this car is a regular "long trip" (Columbus, OH
>: ---> New Orleans)  car.     The non-subwoofer speakers are a pair of
>: 4" Infinity Kappas and a CS-6 Infinity component setup.
>  ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>Hey, these wouldn't be the RS-52s would they? I bought a pair of them 2nd
>hand and they are great, tho a bit up on the highs. Only thing I know about
>them is they're only meant for mids/highs and are only meant for 15W input.
>They are much older than the new component series I think, and come to think
>of it they were a trade in set from an RX-7.
>

That's them.  I'm hanging them off the Sony CDX-5080 head unit since
they aren't very power hungry.  Since I'm really stuck with 4"
speakers in the front (5"ers are hard to find and 5.25" speakers
definitely won't fit w/o dash modification), I was happy to find 4"ers
that actually sound ok.


-- 
Golden Richard III             OSU Dept. of Computer and Information Science
grichard@cis.ohio-state.edu                                   (614) 292-0056
From: ccowan@slate.mines.colorado.edu (C.L. Cowan)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Suitable Capacitor?
Date: 6 Nov 92 16:51:00 GMT
Organization: Colorado School of Mines


: Anuhow, the point is that alternators especially big ones, can generate
: spikes of up to 80 VDC (!) in NEGATIVE polarity (!!).

   I thought that the voltage regulator was suppose to take care of that.
Or does it fail to filter out the spikes and just generally keep the
voltage about 14.4v?   Maybe the negative polarity is how it enters??

	Going back to the issue of caps.  I was told by a local autosound
shop that since I have an Optima 800 battery within 4 feet of my amps that
I wouldn't benefit from caps.  His theory was that the gel cell battery has
such low internal resistance that most caps would increase the resistance.
I must admit that I don't understand that much about how they work but
could this really decrease the voltage at the amps??  I am also having a
tough time simply finding caps bigger that say 1000uF.  Any hints on where
to look and how much they should run.  I'd like to find a .5 farad cap.  

					Just wondering,
					Corbin Cowan
					(ccowan@mines.colorado.edu)
From: meiser@cps.msu.edu (Matthew E Meiser)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: recommendations for T-Birds/cougars
Date: 6 Nov 92 03:43:48 GMT
Reply-To: meiser@cps.msu.edu (Matthew E Meiser)
Organization: Dept. of Computer Science, Michigan State University
Originator: meiser@caspian.cps.msu.edu

I am going to buy an 83-85 T-Bird or Cougar in the next couple of weeks,
and I want to start thinking about what kind of equipment to use. For
starters, I am only going to be able to install a cassette deck a 4 
channel amp and speakers. I plan on installing a sub in the future, so 
I want to plan around that. I also want a very low profile system, as the 
car will have to sit in the parking lot here at school a lot. I would like 
to hide all of the speakers in stock locations if possible.
What I would like to know is:

	1) I am thinking of using 6x9's in the back. Is this a
	   good idea, or should I use something else. 

	2) I am not sure what to do in front. One idea is to use
	   2-way 5 inch speakers in the doors and mount tweeters
	   in the stock dash locations. Would this work? If not
	   what would everyone suggest?

	3) I am considering using a stock Ford electronic cassette
	   stereoas a head unit. Since I can't afford to buy a CD deck 
	   for at home and in the car, I am planning to buy a 
	   portable and mount a jack and swith under the dash to 
	   connect it directly to the amp. Does anyone have 
	   experience with the Ford stereo? My parents van has one 
	   and it seems like it has every feature that I would need
	   and it is pretty hard to beat the FM reception.


Thanks for any input on this manner. 

Matt Meiser
meiser@student.msu.edu
From: walkerr@bigwpi.WPI.EDU (Robert A Walker)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: capacitors
Date: 10 Nov 92 17:09:51 GMT
Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute
NNTP-Posting-Host: bigwpi.wpi.edu

In article <gilchr.721389283@ee.ualberta.ca> gilchr@ee.ualberta.ca (Andrew Gilchrist) writes:

>That gives your -3dB points at 100Hz and 200Hz respectively (approx.)

	Please excuse my ignorance, but what exactly does -3db mean, what does
-12db mean, which one is better, or is it a matter of personal preference,
I know what a db is but i though that the more decibles (sp?) the louder it
was,  am i lost or what?
From: kmr4@po.CWRU.edu (Keith M Ryan)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Suitable Capacitor?
Date: 5 Nov 92 15:39:01 GMT
Article-I.D.: po.kmr4.112.720977941
Organization: Case Western Reserve University
NNTP-Posting-Host: b64746.student.cwru.edu

In article <73747@hydra.gatech.EDU> gt0869a@prism.gatech.EDU (WATERS,CLYDE GORDON) writes:
>The most important reason in my experience is that the large caps have
>something called ESL, or effective series inductance. It is not a true
>inductance effect, but it does make the cap less effective at filtering
>high frequencies. GIven that some switching supplies use extreme 
>ultrasonic switching frequencies, a parallel cap (especially tantalum)
>can do wonders for improving power supply ripple rejection (in short,
>getting the supply noise off the power rail), since they have near-zero
>impedance.

	I thought the topic was external capacitors, e.g. on the 12 volts DC 
line. In that case, having an higher frequency impedence would actually help 
keep alternator whine and the like out. I can fully understand the need for 
such on the internal capacitors for the switching supplies, but for pure DC?
From: norcott_bill@tandem.com (Bill Norcott)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: JC Whitney: repost needed
Date: 13 Nov 92 20:28:30 GMT
Reply-To: norcott_bill@tandem.com (Bill Norcott)
Organization: Tandem Computers, Inc.

A week or so ago someone posted the model number and price of a good
JC Whitney power amp from the discount catalog.  I just received that
catalog.  I would like to get the model number but I didn't save
that article and my history does not go that far back.  I would 
appreciate if someone would repost the article of else mail it to 
me at norcott_bill@tandem.com  Thanks!
-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------|
Bill Norcott			GUARDIAN POSIX project
Tandem Computers, Inc.		
10600 N. Tantau Avenue		PHONE:  (408) 285-3253
Cupertino, CA   95014		EMAIL: norcott_bill@tandem.com
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: lutzeb@cs.tu-berlin.de (Dirk Lutzebaeck)
Subject: BMW 635 installation anyone?
Reply-To: lutzeb@cs.tu-berlin.de
Organization: Computer Science Department, Technical University Berlin, Germany
Distribution: rec
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 15:24:26 GMT


Hi,

I would like to share installation experiences for a BMW 635. Send me
mail if you're interested!


My current setup: Kenwood KRC-951 headunit, Cartron soundprocessor, Orion
420GT amp, Pioneer 2000A amp, 2x 12" Pyle woofers, Ceeroy 9032Zi back
speakers, Mac Farlow front speakers, Oehlbach wires.


--
Dirk Lutzebaeck       | Email: lutzeb@cs.tu-berlin.de |  (**( )
TU Berlin, Sekr. 6-10 | Tel:   +49-30-314-25586       | (**( . ) I don't think,
Franklinstr. 28-29    | FAX:   +49-30-314-73622       | (*.*)  )    so I am.
D-1000 Berlin 12      | Room:  FR6079                 |  (*)  )
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: wail@hprisc-27.cae.wisc.edu (Wai Lee)
Subject: speaker enclosure help
Distribution: usa
Date: 8 Nov 92 03:39:28 CST
Originator: wail@hprisc-27.cae.wisc.edu


      I just bought a pair of JBL 6" X 9" speakers and put them in a pair of
8" X 11" X 8" boxes. However, they don't sound very good because of the
low-frequency resonance inside the box. I try to put lots of
sound absorbing materials in it but that doesn't help much.
Could some expert out there tell me what can I do to them ? 
Also, could sombody suggest some books to me that talk about
how to build speaker enclosure ?
     
       Thanks in advance. :=)
From: chenh@neptune.ecs.csus.edu (H. Philip Chen)
Subject: Re: LED 12volt Clock for Cars
Organization: California State University, Sacramento
Distribution: usa
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 92 21:33:35 GMT

gaia@carson.u.washington.edu (I/We are Gaia) writes:
:I posted this in rec.autos, and got no response, I know this doesn't have
:a hell of a lot to do with audio, but it is kinda related, car electronics
:and all that.  The subject line describes what I am looking for.  When I
:get my new car, I will be putting in a new stereo, but what is popular
:these days, is to put the clock in the factory deck.  Bingo, no clock. 
:Does anyone know where I could find a decent/modern looking led clock that
:runs off the car power.  I don't like the Radio Shack designs, plus the
:fact that they have MICRONTA plastered all over them.  PLEASE email with
:response, or followup to the net..

I've got a suggestion...  Why not just get the aftermarket stereo
with a built-in clock?

Some of the fixed-head units have clocks built-in.  Most of the 
pull-outs do not have clocks.  Most of the detachable-faceplates 
do.  (Each type has its pros and cons.  Your choice there.)


If your favorite stereo/brand doesn't have the built-in clock,
try your phone book under "Electronics - Parts and Supplies" 
(obviously not at Raspberry Shake again; but hey, Micronta surely
sounds better than Realistic!)).  Anyway, some clocks come ready 
built - just wire it to a 12V source.  Others come in the kit form.

Some car stores (like the Pep Boys, Grand Auto variety) may have 
those clocks too, but I'm not sure.



Best wishes,

-phil
From: pcsd1146@altair.selu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: High performance AMP for sale(Orion)
Date: 13 Nov 92 10:35:15 -0600
Organization: Southeastern Louisiana University

Amp for Sale
   I have a Orion Red 225 HCCA high current competition Amp.
   It is excellent for multi-speaker applications.
   I would like to get $300.00 for it but I will take the best offer.
Anyone interested can e-mail me!
From: gt0869a@prism.gatech.EDU (WATERS,CLYDE GORDON)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Stiffening Caps
Date: 5 Nov 92 14:20:12 GMT
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology

In article <1992Nov3.050607.42204@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu> jcg2@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (JASON GIRARD) writes:
>I have a question regarding stiffening caps...
>preferred method?  I'm a little pressed for space, but if running several caps
>is best, I'm sure I can find the room for them.

It depends on the internal impedance of the caps. I have found that most 
smaller caps (100000 uf and smaller) have lower impedance of large caps,
like the .8 f cap mentioned. So, a combination of smaller caps would have
even lower impedance than one small cap (parallel impedances) and would 
therefore do an even better job of stabilizing voltage. I have gone
pretty much to the extreme, I think- I have ~600000 uf of 21000 uf caps
(30,if I remember right) going in parallel with bus bars in between. 
I think this oughtta do it, if I can ever find time to install it :-).

REgards,
Gordon.
 
smaller caps (ie 11111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111

11111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111150000 uf and smaller) tend to have lower impedance, and


therefore a combination of them to get 
-- 
WATERS,CLYDE GORDON-Georgia Institute of Technology Atlanta Ga 30332 
******<LANGUAGE IS A VIRUS! - Laurie Anderson-Home of the Brave>******* 
uucp:	  ...!{decvax,hplabs,ncar,purdue,rutgers}!gatech!prism!gt0869a
Internet: gt0869a@prism.gatech.edu
From: jarvis@niktow.canisius.edu (Daniel Jarvis)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Car alarms
Keywords: auto car alarm
Date: 11 Nov 92 23:51:37 GMT
Organization: Canisius College, Buffalo NY. 14208

Is anyone familiar with the K-9/prestige/excalibur car alarm systems?  I'm
pretty sure that they are all in the same line.  Anyway the problem is that
it chirps three times upon arm-up.  This signals the owner that a door
has been left open.  I make sure all circuits are closed but it always chirps
three times.  Has anybody else had this problem?  Suggestions would be greatly
appreciated...

jarvis@niktow.cs.canisius.edu
------
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: "glen mead" <glen.mead@canrem.com>
Subject: for faq
Reply-To: "glen mead" <glen.mead@canrem.com>
Organization: Canada Remote Systems
Distribution: rec
Date: 11 Nov 92 20:04:24 EST

to: kmr4@po.CWRU.edu

Hi Keith,

I'm fairly new to car audio and I haven't actually done any installation
as of yet but I will offer my knowledge of my car as it sits.  I will be
doing an installation this winter if finances permit.

Make:		Ford
Model:		Mustang 5.0L LX coupe
Year:   	1987
Headunit:	Yamaha, YCR 350 Cassette/receiver
		Compatible sizes - shaft mount and European Din
		(Crutchfield sizes U, S, and E)
		Installation was done by previous owner so I am unable to
		comment on ease or difficulty of installation.
CD changer:	Due to space limitations, this would probably have to be
		installed in the trunk.
		May be prone to skipping since the suspension is quite
		firm.
		Haven't actually tried one though.
Speakers:	Original - 3.5" dash, 5.25" doors, and 6x9" rear deck but
		I'm not positive about that plus I believe the premium
		sound option (which I didn't have) offered more.
		Only modifications visible, are a pair of Panasonic 6x9's
		in place of the original rear deck speakers.
EQ's, crossovers, amplifers: No EQ, or crossovers, only a Yamaha YPA-240
		(I think - it's the 18Wx2, 4 ohm model)
		The amp is mounted under the passenger seat but I would
		definitely not recommend this.  Solder joints have cracked
		due to stress under hard cornering due to the chassis flex
		since the car is a uni-body.
Instilation tips/tricks: None at the moment, maybe after I get a chance to
		do my own installation.


Hope this helps, take care.

Glen Mead - RZ/RD 500 Owners Group
---
 * Amiga-Reader V2.00B * 
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
From: greg@turbo.atl.ga.us (Greg Montgomery)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: How to run two car batteries
Date: Mon, 09 Nov 92 16:30:11 EDT
Reply-To: greg@turbo.atl.ga.us
Distribution: world
Organization: Montgomery Consultants, Inc.

I'm looking into the possiblity of adding a second battery in my car as
my present battery and alternator aren't really doing the job. I've
added a heavy-duty battery, I think about 800CCA, but I still would am
having some occasional problems, so I would like to throw a battery in
the trunk to help drive my Sherwood 4-channel 300w amp.
At first, I was told that a battery isolator was needed, although I'm
not sure what the function of it is. And the other day, I was told that
I didn't even need a battery isolater, and I could just run the
batteries direct. Is this true? Safe? Reliable? Explosive?

My alternator is about 120amps I think, and is about the biggest I can
get in my car ('87 Ford Taurus), or at least, that's what I've been
told. I've already had to rebuild the alternator once, and I'd like to
prevent it from happening again. I've replaced the stock battery with
the one I have now, and now I'm wondering if the next step is another
battery. I don't have much money to invest in this, so I can't do
anything like run two alternators, or anything fancy, but please let me
know on any ideas on how to solve this problem.
Thanks!

Greg


---
Greg Montgomery -                       |  Atlanta, Georgia, U.S.A.
greg@turbo.atl.ga.us                    |
{gatech|rutgers}!emory!turbo!greg       |
From: kirk@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Kirk Lindstrom)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Car Radio Installation
Date: 11 Nov 92 19:05:08 GMT
Organization: Shredding the water of SF Bay, HP-OCD

Try looking for a loose ground wire or speaker wire shorts to body parts
before buying a new radio.  Should be alot cheaper.

Kirk out
From: mary@Cayman.COM (Mary Malmros)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Removable faceplate?
Date: 11 Nov 92 19:22:29 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: Cayman Systems Inc., Cambridge, MA


Well, folks, a few weeks ago I became yet another statistic here in the
US Capital of Auto Theft.  My car got stolen from in front of my apartment
building in Boston.  It turned up a week later in New Bedford (about 
50 miles away), minus the stereo and contents of glovebox and trunk, 
and with the usual damage to doorlock, ignition, and dash.  

I saw some stuff on this newsgroup about car thief profiles, so here's some
more information about this particular theft:

	- No alarm
	- No steering wheel lock
	- Car was locked
	- Not a particularly high-crime neighborhood (i.e., car theft is
	  relatively rare, for an urban neighborhood)
	- Car, stereo, and contents have low dollar value.  Car is an '85
	  Toyota Tercel hatchback, stereo is a real basic 1985 or 1986 
	  Pioneer stereo with no special features, contents nothing special.
	  The most valuable thing in the car (including the stereo) was the
	  radar detector which was out of sight in the glovebox.  On the 
	  other hand, the car had four really nice tires, and all parts are
	  in good/excellent condition, and nothing else was taken...just the
	  stereo.

So I'm guessing it was a "type 2" thief, who stole the car and did hundreds
of dollars in damage to get a stereo that cost about $140 new.  Today, you
might be able to get about $20 for it if you sold it legitimately.  Given
all that, I don't especially feel like replacing it with another 
non-removable stereo.  So I'd like people's advice on removable stereos.

I've heard about two different basic types: benzi boxes and removable
faceplates.  I don't know anything about who makes them, what the models
are, or what they cost.  Does anybody have opinions on any of these?  
The soundworthiness is really secondary to the thief-deterrent quality, 
here.

Thanks much, 
--
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Mary Malmros     | Cayman Systems Inc, 26 Landsdowne St, Cambridge, MA 02139
 mary@cayman.com  | Phone 617-494-1999  Fax 617-494-5167  AppleLink CAYMAN.TECH