From: andrew@airs.com (Andrew Evans)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Gearbox removal, GTI 16V
Date: 9 Oct 92 16:11:14 GMT

msirota@ee.rochester.edu (Mark Sirota) writes:

>Just hours after I said out loud, "I'm amazed my clutch has made it this
>long," it failed.  Either the pressure plate or the linkage that actuates it
>(inside the bell housing) has failed.  The lever on the front of the gearbox
>which normally actuates the pressure plate moves freely, but the clutch
>remains engaged.  The car is an '87 GTI 16V.

>Questions: What parts are likely to have failed here?  Since the pressure
>plate seems to still be exerting pressure, I suspect it hasn't blown up, so
>it's probably something in the linkage.  Anyone have any guesses?

I'll wager that either the lever on the gearbox that actuates the
throwout bearing broke, or maybe the pushrod that the throwout bearing
presses on (and moves the pressure plate diaphragm) broke or bent and
shifted.  You won't know till you get the gearbox off, though you
could remove the side cover on the trans just to check the clutch
cable lever and the throwout bearing behind it (catch the trans fluid
in a pan).

>Is anyone willing to give me a step-by-step procedure for removing the
>gearbox?  How much time do I need to allocate?  How much of a bitch is it to
>drop the halfshafts?  Any other gotchas?  I've never done this in a
>front-driver before...  In fact, the only car I've ever pulled the gearbox
>out of was a BMW 2002.

Well, when I did this on my old Rabbit a number of years ago, the
whole thing took me about ten hours.  I didn't have much mechanical
experience then, though, so I'd think you could shave a few hours off.
Even replacing the clutch in my SAAB 900 turbo, where you don't even
have to pull the trans or the engine, took five hours though.  (This
with several years under my belt at this point)

I didn't have to remove the halfshafts - I got sufficient clearance
just unbolting them from the output flanges on the trans and hanging
them from the chassis with wire.  Dunno if the Golf is tighter and
requires shaft removal, but I would hope not.  See Mr. Bentley.

The most difficult parts of the job are really getting the 'box in and
out.  You have to support the engine by laying an I-beam or stout
piece of wood over the fenders and hang a chain off that into the
casting hole into the block.  This supports the motor while you have
the front and rear motor mounts off, and the driver's side trans
mount.  You need a hydraulic floor jack so you can raise and lower the
transmission.  There are a bunch of little bolts nestled away under
covers and stuff that need to come out, so the Bentley manual will be
a big help in locating those.

Once you get the trans out, the clutch and pressure plate replacement
is pretty easy, especially if you have air tools.  I didn't get a
special tool for aligning the clutch disc in the center of the
pressure plate assembly - I used my pinky finger as a feeler gauge.
This worked for me, but since a misaligned clutch disc means you get
the transmission on the crankshaft and then have to pull the thing
back off because the bolt holes don't align, you may want to just
spend the money and not risk it.

Getting the trans back in is challenging.  Getting the clutch disc on
the splines of the crankshaft is not as easy as it sounds, especially
when you're wrangling with 100 pounds of steel.  Also, getting the
transmission and engine aligned and back on the mounts correctly is
important.

>Besides a new clutch, pressure plate, and throwout bearing, what other parts
>am I likely to need?  And, of course, maybe resurfacing the flywheel, but I
>hope not...

Your flywheel ought to be fine, since you don't mention that you've
been having clutch slippage problems, and you haven't worn the disc
down to the rivets.  If it's flat (check with straightedge) and not
blued, cracked, or scored, it's fine.

>Any recommendations for what specific parts I should get are welcome.  This
>car is strictly my street car now, so please keep that in mind.  For this
>car, I generally like quiet, smooth, reliable, and cheap -- but if I can get
>more performance without a significant tradeoff against any of the above,
>I'm always willing.

I'd just get the standard Sachs replacement for your car from your
favorite independent auto parts store.  Any performance pressure plate
is going to make the clutch pedal stiffer, which is probably not
something you want.  And hey, you're gonna sell this car and buy
yourself an Audi soon anyway, right? ;-)

I probably forgot some things in the intervening years, but that
should give you an idea of what you're up against.  Hope you've got a
free day this weekend, and nice weather if you're working outside...
-- 
Andrew Evans (andrew@airs.com) - Infinity Development Systems - Waltham, MA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw