From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: How to grow grass?
Date: 2 Sep 92 21:29:46 -0500
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

In article <1992Sep2.144659.20159@csus.edu>, tching@target.water.ca.gov (Tracy Ching <SysAdmin>) writes:
> In article <1992Sep1.190336.6429@iscsvax.uni.edu> klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes:
>>mguyott@eriador.prime.com (M. Guyott) writes:
>>
>>You may want to do a very basic soil test (our local extension service 
>>does pH and NPK for $8) before you start putting down soil amendments.
>>
>>The FAQ on lawns is _still_ being written (where does the time go?!),
> 	What is the typical pH and NPK for fescue and Kent. blue?
> (I know the FAQ is "in the mail" but I'd like to know a soon as possible)

Fine-leaved fescues:
Creeping red fescue (Festuca rubra ssp. & F. rubra ssp. littoralis) are
adapted to well-drained moderately shaded sites, and drouthy, infertile,
acid soils.  Intolerant of wet conditions and high fertility.  No more
than 2 lbs N/1000 sq ft/yr.

Chewings fescue (F. rubra ssp. commutata).  Same growing conditions as
creeping red, but makes a denser turf, particularly if you tend to mow
at 1" (preferred is 1.5-2")
Seeding rate: 3-5 lbs/1000 sq ft


Sheep fescue (F. ovina) well drained, drouthy, acid soils of low fertility.
Makes only a "roadside" type "lawn" -- not pretty, but good for soil
stabilization.
Seeding rates 3-5 lbs/1000 sq ft

Coarse fescues
Tall fescue (F. arundinacea): minimal fertilization, as for red fescue,
but needs more water.  Alta & Ky-31 are commonly used.  New fine leaved
cultivars available, including Hound dog, Olympic & Falcom.
4-8 lbs/1000 sq ft


KY bluegrass: (Poa pratensis) N requirements dependent on cultivars chosen;
ranges from 2-6+ lbs N/1000 sq ft/yr.
High N, high maintenance cultivars include Touchdown, A-34, Brunswick.
Moderate: A-20, Adelphi, Baron, Bonnieblue, Cheri, Eclipse, Enmundi, Glade,
Majestic, Parade, Plush, Rugby, Victa. 
Low: Kenblue, Park, Delta, South Dakota Certified.
Seeding rates: 1-2 lbs/1000 sq ft.

There are also supposed to be some new endophyte containing lawn grass
cultivars that are highly disease resistant.

If you're going to use perennial ryegrass as a cover crop, it should 
constitute no more than 15-20% of the total.

pH for most lawn grasses is optimally about pH6-pH7.

My personal choice for most lawns I've dealt with is a basic balanced
fertilizer when starting from scratch or renovating an old neglected 
lawn.  Save the high N stuff for times when you've got a good, healthy
lawn and OK soil test results.

As to seed choice, I usually go for the "no-name" KY bluegrass that is
a mixture of genetic types, seed it in on the heavy side (mixed with a
couple of species of fescue in the shady spots) and let natural selection
sort it all out.  No one will ever accuse my lawn of having been managed
by a greenskeeper, but I've also never had to deal with massive outbreaks
of lawn diseases that are possible when you use only a limited genetic
base.

It's the same philosophy that leads me to plant half a dozen different
tomato cultivars knowing that I'll have _some_ crop no matter what
the weather is, or what the disease outbreaks might be.

Kay Klier  Biology Dept  UNI