HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: wack@ariel.ncsl.nist.gov (John Wack)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: benchtop jointers: opinions wanted
Date: 28 Sep 92 13:10:16 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: National Institute of Standards & Technology



Forgive me if this topic has already been covered.  I recently got
an unexpected bonus, and now have some money to buy a jointer - I
would greatly appreciate any opinions on what I'm considering.  To
start out with, my needs aren't too stringent - I'm a weekend wood-
worker, I make mostly smaller pieces but still do a few large things
now and then like 3'x5' tables or bookcases.  Up to now, I've used
a 14" plane for straightening edges prior to glueing up panels, as
well as my table saw when the blade is real sharp, and I've also
just taken boards to a somewhat local shop to have them true the edges.
I have (and will have for the next few years at least) a small area, so
I have to carefully consider buying anything big.

My considerations for this purchase are, then:
	- I don't need anything top of the line
	- Not a lot of shop space
	- Something small but still useful for occasional larger projects
	- Something of quality that will work well and last for a 
	  reasonable length of time

I'm not sure whether a benchtop jointer will meet all of the above, so
can anyone with such a tool comment on how well they work?

I have identified two that look good:
	(a) Ryobi, $300, VS from 18,000 - 32,000 RPM, aluminum table

	(b) AMT, $200, 18,000 RPM only, cast iron table

Ryobi has a good reputation and the variable speed up to 32,000 sounds
good, but a cast iron table is preferable and $300 is a lot to pay.  The
AMT jointer is priced better, has the iron table, but is fixed at
18,000 RPM and 7/8 HP.  Both jointers are probably two blade cutters.
Can anyone comment on these (or other models they like better)?

BTW, can anyone comment on AMT itself?  I just got their catalog, I'd
never heard of them before, and their stuff looks pretty good.  They
have a 10-year warranty on non-normal wear parts (2 year on motor).  
Are they new? -- I've never seen them advertized before.  They also have
a good bandsaw besides the jointer.

Any opinions welcomed,
John Wack
From: coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM (Chip Coffin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: developed vs rated hp
Date: 1 Oct 1992 01:54:29 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems
Distribution: world
Reply-To: coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: surfin


I got slightly burned once by a 4x8 sheet of particle board (actually it was
MDF).  It was 49" wide.  I say slightly, because I had to cut a piece a second time.
Not exactly a reason to demand a refund.

Now isn't that amazing:  An example where you get more than what is advertised!

Also, my experience with 3/4 mdf is that it's 0.750 inches, not 0.700 like plywood.

chip


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: pea@spider.wri.com (Bruce Pea)
Subject: Grizzly Bandsaw
Organization: Wolfram Research, Inc.
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 00:43:38 GMT

Can anyone tell me anything about Grizzly's bandsaws?

I'm going to be getting a bandsaw in the near future and I'm trying
to figure out which one to get. I've spoken to a couple of people
who are satisfied with Grizzly tablesaws and I'm wondering if there
bandsaws are of comparable quality?

Does anyone know how the Grizzly compares to Delta's? 

Thanks in advance for your opinions and feedback.


From: pauld@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com (Paul Davis)
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 16:15:42 GMT
Subject: Re: Re: New toy
Organization: Hewlett Packard - Boise, ID
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

Alex Kilpatrick (fkilpatr@afit.af.mil) writes

> I've heard of this type of "dual-mode" orbital sander, but I've never
> actually seen one (or at least I was never aware of it).  Can someone
> refer me to a common brand sander that does this?

I have an el-cheapo Black and Decker that can be switched between orbital and
straight-line.  It makes a terrible racket in either mode and actually sands better 
when it's not turned on.  It cost about $30 five years ago; the Porter Cable 
Speed Bloc I bought for $49 two years ago is infinitely better.

I keep the B&D to loan to people I don't know well.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ericb@microsoft.com (Eric Brown)
Subject: Re: retrofitting risers into a staircase
Date: 28 Sep 92 21:55:23 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp
Distribution: rec

Tony DeSimone writes:
|...
|My basement staircase is ``open'' (meaning treads but no risers) and I
|want to close it up.  The quick and dirty solution is to cut a sheet
|of plywood to cover the back of the staircase and nail it in place,
|but I'd much prefer to put risers in.  My current plan to cut pine
|boards to fit and attach it between the treads as below (the # is a
|small wood block running the length of the tread):
|
|                 -------
|                  |#<    
|                  |^     
|                  |     
|          --------|<
|           |#<           
|           |^            
|           |            
|     ______|<
|
|OK, does this make sense?  Is pine OK?  Do I have the attachment
|points (< and ^) in the right place, or do the riser normally sit on
|top of the tread?  Should I glue and screw the risers in place, or
|just screw them in?  Being a bit of a neophyte, I don't know if I need
|to worry about wood movement or some other subtilty.

I assume that the grain of the treads runs across the width of the
stairs, so you would also want the riser grain to run the same way.
3/4" fir plywood would probably work better than pine since it is
harder and dimensionally stable.  The fastening points you show would
work fine.  If the appearance of the tread tops is not important,
you could fasten the top of the riser by screwing down through the
upper tread (thus eliminating the need for a cleat).  Screwwing and
glueing will produce the strongest structure.  I always glue stairs
together not only for strength, but to eliminate squeaks.  If you do
screw the risers from above, be sure to drill a pilot hole into the
edge of the plywood or you could split it.

And yes, all of the risers I have seen are fastened to
the back of the lower tread.  This creates a shear joint rather than
a withdrawl joint which will help support the tread.  Risers contribute
a lot to stiffening and strengthening a staircase.


-- 
    Eric
               Microsoft Systems, Advanced Systems Development
            {sun, uw-beaver, apple, uunet, fluke}!microsoft!ericb 
                       internet: ericb@microsoft.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: roche@cs.rochester.edu (James Roche)
Subject: Changes to Frequently Requested rec.woodworking addresses
Frequency: monthly
Organization: Computer Science Department University of Rochester
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 12:35:34 GMT
Expires: 5 Nov 92

396a397,404
> Vandyke's Restorers			Orders: (800) 843-3320
> 4th Ave. & 6th St.			(605) 796-4425
> PO Box 278
> Woonsocket, South Dakota 57385
> 	Supplies for Upholstery, Antique Restoration, Taxidermy(!),
> 	wrought nails, several head patterns AND brass plated. Lots
> 	of antique reproduction hardware.
> 
-- 
Jim Roche
roche@cs.rochester.edu
University of Rochester Computer Science Department Rochester, NY 14627
From: STEVE.BUSSELL@OFFICE.WANG.COM ("Steve Bussell")
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Need Brass Hardware!!
Date: 28 Sep 92 14:00:40 GMT
Organization: Mail to News Gateway at Wang Labs

I'm in the final stages of finishing a Queen Anne style mahogany china cabinet
and need a good source for period solid brass hardware, drawer pulls, hinges
and knobs.  I have the Woodworker's Store catalog, but I'm looking for a
source with better selection and hopefully a somewhat better price.  From the
prices in the Woodworker's Store catalog I'm looking at $150 plus for just the
hardware.  Any experiences with places like Horton Brasses, Paxton, White
Chapel would be greatly appreciated.  It would be nice to have some
recommndations before I drop $3, $4 or $5 for the catalog.

Thanks, Steve Bussell
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 6 Oct 1992 09:33:39 PDT
From:         "Jim Johnson 7-9535 (6518 TS/EN)" <jjohnson@EDWARDS-SCY.AF.MIL>
Subject:      Re: mail order saw problems
              at Oct 6, 92 1:32 pm

      All of my Williams Tool catalogs go directly into the trash.  They do
      not know what they sell.

      James G. Johnson
      Standard Disclaimer
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 29 Sep 1992 07:40:20 PDT
From:         "Jim Johnson 7-9535 (6518 TS/EN)" <jjohnson@EDWARDS-SCY.AF.MIL>
Subject:      Re: benchtop jointers: opinions wanted
              at Sep 28, 92 1:10 pm

      I have the AMT 200 dollar planer/jointer.  First a word about table
      length.  The plain truth is that the length of the jointer table will
      dictate how long a board you can joint.  The AMT is only about 30
      inches long total.  I've found that the longest board I can joint is 6
      feet and that only marginally.  The board tends to tip leaving a lip
      on the end.  For shorter lengths the jointer does an excellent job.
      It screams like crazy though so wear hearing protection.  The vacuum
      attachment really works well.  As I've said before AMT is ok if you
      keep in mind what you will expect the machine to do.  Occasional use
      is not the real driver.  The driver is how it will be used.  Buy the
      longest table you can fit into the shop.  Like you my shop was size
      limited so I bought the AMT.  I have no doubt however that I will
      replace it with a larger machine if I get more space.

      James Johnson
      Standard Disclaimer
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Power Wet Sharpeners
Date: 6 Oct 92 19:13:06 GMT
Organization: LLNL

In article <1992Oct6.101100@wsl.dec.com>, gringort@wsl.dec.com (Joel Gringorten) writes:
> 

> Is there anybody that's tried one of these machines 
> that cares to comment on it?  I'm interested in using it for 
> sharpening 6" jointer knives and 13" planer knives, as well
> as chisels and plane blades.

I've got one and it makes sharpening chisels and plane blades to "incredible"
sharpness a reasonably fast and accurate process.  I have not yet used it
to sharpen planer or jointer knives.

The machine, like any precision machine, is very sensitive to proper
setup.  A particular problem is making sure that you match the bevel
angle accurately when you start to resharpen an edge.  In that respect, the
Makita could use a better design for adjusting the blade angle and for
lowering the blade onto the stone.  They could also supply a chisel/
plane iron holding slide to compement their planer/jointer knife holding
slide.  The after-market aluminum holder I  got from Trendlines works, but
frankly it stinks.  I really would like a matching cast iron holder.

G.

From: krb@hpuerca.atl.hp.com (Kevin Barnes)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 19:56:35 GMT
Subject: Re: How do I discourage woodpeckers?
Organization: the HP Response Center, Atlanta
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

I usually hang a pie tin is a nearby tree when does damm birds get after
my house.

I've also heard that cyann pepper mixed / water and sprayed on the wood will
get rid of em!

Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 29 Sep 1992 10:31:01 EST
From:         peter dunster <pdunster@CC.UOW.EDU.AU>
Subject:      Re: Lathe sanding - avoiding sanding rings
              "@pucc.Princeton.EDU:WOODWORK@IPFWVM.BITNET" at Sep 28,
              92 12:19 pm

>
> I've completed a couple of projects on a wood lathe; candle stands, lamps,
> etc... It's always quite difficult to eliminate or avoid rings around the
> object after sanding.  I use various grits, pressure, and speeds.
> Are there tricks that I'm missing, or will I always have to manually sand
> the piece with the grain after I'm done with the lathe?
> Any and all tips are appreciated...
>
>
> --
> - Peter Vines : vines@virginia.edu : (804) 924-4644 : University of Virginia
>
Try pressing handfulls of wood shavings or sawdust into the work (while it
is spinning!) after the final sanding, it will get rid of the last fine sanding
rings and put a beautiful polish into the wood at the same time.

--
=========================================================================
Dept. of Mech. Eng.                |Pete Dunster
University of Wollongong           |Tel     +61-42-213597
Northfields Ave                    |Fax     +61-42-213101
Wollongong                         |Email   p.dunster@uow.edu.au
N.S.W. 2500  AUSTRALIA             |
All opinions etc. etc. etc.
=========================================================================
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Routers for router table : Opinions Wanted
Date: 30 Sep 92 16:54:28 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

On a related note:

I'm thinking of buying a Porter Cable 693 (1 1/2 HP, 1/4&1/2" collet
plunge router) plus the standard base (which turns it into a 690).
I'd leave the standard base on a router table, and use the plunge base
for all hand-held work.

Any opinions?  I don't plan on doing very much panel raising.
Mostly dadoes, rabbets, roundovers and pantograph work.  So I
don't need the high power jobbies.

Seems like a very nice unit.  My father's 15 year-old
Sears is on its last legs (according to the sounds coming from the
ball bearings).  And I should really give it back to him anyhow ;-)
[He doesn't use it much, so it could spend its retirement in light
duty]
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jimkent@well.sf.ca.us (Jim Kent)
Subject: Re: How do I discourage woodpeckers?
Organization: Whole Earth 'Lectronic Link
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 23:20:04 GMT


Re: the dummy owl to scare off woodpeckers,  I got a dunny owl to scare
the birds that were dumping their loads on a new car that had to stay
outside.  I think that it only gave them a target to shoot for that
was more of a challenge.  Within a few weeks it looked like Seal Rock.

I haven't tried it on my cedar home in the Sierras.  I just stuff in new
insulation and patch over the holes each fall.  I did try the
hawk shaped cutouts and they helped, fewer dead small birds below the
windows but the woodpeckers ignored them.

Jim
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: fkilpatr@afit.af.mil (Freeman A. Kilpatrick)
Subject: Re: benchtop jointers: opinions wanted
Organization: Air Force Institute of Technology
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 17:09:20 GMT

"Jim Johnson 7-9535 (6518 TS/EN)" <jjohnson@EDWARDS-SCY.AF.MIL> writes:

>      I have the AMT 200 dollar planer/jointer.  First a word about table
>      length.  The plain truth is that the length of the jointer table will
>      dictate how long a board you can joint.  The AMT is only about 30

Shouldn't that be the "plane truth is ...."?  :) :) :)
-- 
Alex Kilpatrick  fkilpatr@afit.af.mil  
"There are also persistant rumors that IBM will soon offer a hard-disk drive, an expensive accessory that only a businessman would want..."
--- Popular Computing, December 1981
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: taylor@dominy.enet.dec.com (Bruce J. Taylor)
Subject: Re: Lathe sanding - avoiding sanding rings
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 14:26:24 GMT


In article <1992Sep28.121915.17741@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU>, psv2b@poe.acc.Virginia.EDU (Peter S. Vines) writes...
>I've completed a couple of projects on a wood lathe; candle stands, lamps,
>etc... It's always quite difficult to eliminate or avoid rings around the
>object after sanding.  I use various grits, pressure, and speeds.  
>Are there tricks that I'm missing, or will I always have to manually sand
>the piece with the grain after I'm done with the lathe?
>Any and all tips are appreciated...
> 

Well, there are four techniques that work for me:

1. keep your tools sharp enough, and most woods won't need sanding.
   (Yeah, I know, this is motherhood and apple pie. I always need to
    sand, but its usually just touch-up.)

2. On bowls, plates, and long smooth sections of spindles you can use a
   random-orbit sander while the piece is revolving. This calls for a 
   delicate touch, but it works like magic. Some folks use disk sanders,
   especially down inside closed vessels, but they always cause me more
   trouble than they're worth.

3. Use emory cloth, rather than sandpaper. Don't know why this should be
   so, but it always works a lot better for me. Lasts longer, too.

4. Admit that you're not gonna get rid of all the marks, and incorporate
   them into your design.


				- bruce
From: chris@eso.mc.xerox.com (Chris Heiny)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Best wood for windows?
Date: 5 Oct 92 16:33:08 GMT
Reply-To: chris@eso.mc.xerox.com
Organization: Xerox Corporation, Webster NY

Last spring I cleaned out the rather soggy basement of my old farmhouse, sealed the walls and poured a nice new concrete floor.  The basement is now (mostly) dry and houses the woodshop.  Unfortunately, 90 years of high humidity took a toll on the windows, which are rotted to uselessness.  This was brought to my attention during a recent bout of high winds, when one of the windows, frame and all, blew into the basement with a smash.

So next weekend I plan to make replacements - nothing fancy mind you, just some simple rabbets, grooves and haunches.  I had intended to make them out of pine stock that I have around, and use pressure treated lumber for the sills (which will be properly sloped this time, rather than flat) and other parts that will be right against the foundation (poured concrete & fieldstone).

Since the windows will be painted, pine or fir should do for this, but just to be safe, I think it best to double check: how is pine & fir for this application?  Any other suggestions for cheap & sturdy wood to use for these windows?

					Thanks,
						Chris
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How do I bend an oak 4x4?
Date: 3 Oct 92 05:03:19 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <1992Oct2.232727.18385@jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca> akarpowicz@mta.ca writes:
>In article <1992Oct2.195858.6477@organpipe.uug.arizona.edu>, apoyner@as.arizona.edu (Tony Poyner) writes:
>>In article <dnsurber.718036807@node_26400> dnsurber@lescsse.jsc.nasa.gov (Douglas N. Surber) writes:

>>>I want to make two curved 4" diameter beams, 80" long. They will have a
>>>smooth circular arc 4" high in the center relative to the ends. If I
>>>could remember enough geometry I would tell you what the radius of the
>>>bend was. I would like to use white oak. Any suggestions would be
>>>welcome.

>>I can't imagine trying to bend such a beast.  Why not laminate it?  For
>>this sort of radius, half-inch thick oak strips should be relatively
>>easy to work with, clamping a few at a time to a form.

>This is what I'd do too.  If I remember correctly, the force to bend
>a beam goes up proportionally to the square of its thickness (or was it
>a cube?).  Also, to dry such a beam after steaming would require a very
>long time.  Besides you will never get a circular arc unless the beam
>tapers down towards the ends, or at least is much longer then 80" when
>bent. 

I agree.  You'd have to steam a 4x quite while to get enough penetration,
then dry it a long time too.  And after removing it from the form, I
can't but expect it to twist (not a big problem since you're rounding
it) but also go out of plane.

[Sufficiently steamed this is not likely to be particularly dangerous
if your form is secure enough.]

Get your 4x4's, then have them ripped to 1/2, then steam and bend
a few planks at a time in the *same* order they were ripped to keep
the grain consistent.  Since you're going to 4" thick, you don't want
to laminate them all at once, because that'll increase the drying time
by quite a bit.

As far as arc goes, you could build a form for it, but the big trick
is to keep the form from bending too (if you're trying 4x instead
of laminations).

As far as rounding goes, perhaps you can find a shop that will run
them thru a shaper for you.

If I remember rightly, white oak is going to be a lot harder to
steam warp than red oak because of the tyloses making the wood
much more waterproof.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: rich@theophilus.msfc.nasa.gov (Rich Krum)
Subject: Re: New toy
Reply-To: rich@theophilus.msfc.nasa.gov
Organization: Boeing Computer Support Services
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 16:03:59 GMT

As Usual, there is another view--

I have two Sears orbital sanders--
One is a VERY old, all metal one that actually belongs to my wife, that we
bought in 1972.  It has never failed to work and sand well.  She got it after
she told me "of course I can sand our headboard by hand---" and couldn't raise
her arms that evening---

The other has a black plastic motor housing, metal base and a dust bag--that
fills regularly!  It does, however, vibrate the H#$$ out of your hands.  It has
one of theose straight/orbital switches--who knows what setting it's on now
under all the dust.

I would most likely buy a Makita of some sort now--Sears quality has gone down
badly since then.

--rich

---
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
"My opinions are my own, and my employer (Boeing Computer Support Services)
 denies any responsibility for me, all opinions in general, and anything 
 I may say, do, or be otherwise associated with outside of work for them.
 -- Use at your own risk, your mileage may vary, no news is good news."

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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: gbraun@beech.mitre.org (Gary A. Braun)
Subject: Re: Table Saws
Organization: The MITRE Corporation
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 17:30:02 GMT

In article <rdc00a.40.0@nmrdc1.nmrdc.nnmc.navy.mil>  
rdc00a@nmrdc1.nmrdc.nnmc.navy.mil (Kelly Pedersen) writes:
> Recently I asked for comments on the  Ryobi BT3000 table saw.  It
> seems the consensus of opinion is that (a) the Ryobi is possibly
> adequate for light work and (b) that the Delta Contractors saw is
> the way to go.  Thanks very much to the people who responded.  If
> anyone has anything else to add I would be glad to hear it.
> 
> Kelly  

--

I've also looked at the Powermatic Artisan's saw, which is the same price range  
as the Delta contractor's saw.  I like Vega fence, the cast iron wings versus  
the Delta's stamped steel, as well as the Powermatic's dust collector.  If  
anyone has experience with this saw, I'd like to hear about it.

Gary