HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: djones@iex.iex.com
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Good Magazines?
Date: 16 Apr 92 22:30:01 GMT
Organization: IEX Corporation

>In article <1992Apr14.153804.24651@samba.oit.unc.edu>
urhlre@uncvx1.oit.unc.edu writes:
>>Hi,
>>   I am considering subscribing to a magazine on RC aircraft.  I am
>>interested in opinions as to the qualities of the different magazines.
>
I read RCM every month as well as MAN. I like RCM and MAN is ok. I get MA by
default and do like some of the articles. I only subscribe to one magazine...
R/C Report. IMO they are the most unbiased (at least as far as advertising
dollars go;-)). The reviews are excellent and the regular features informative.
In short a quality magazine.

'Nuff said,
Doug
-------------------------------------------------------------------
'I am a traveler of                |    Douglas R. Jones
     both Time and Space'          |    IEX Corporation
       Led Zeppelin                |    (214)612-2600 ext: 325
                                   |    djones@iex.iex.com
                                   |    uunet!iex!djones
-------------------------------------------------------------------
From: IO10046@MAINE.MAINE.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Suggestions for Off-Road Track.
Date: 16 Apr 92 16:15:37 GMT
Article-I.D.: MAINE.92107.121537IO10046
Organization: University of Maine System


     This past fall, we off-road racers from this area lost our
area track due to finacial reasons.  So, me and a few of my
racing friends are going to start our own track.  We have a good
place to make it (NO RENT!) and have the possiblity of also
having an indoor on-road track. What I need to know is a few
specs for a good track.
     What is the best track materials (ex. clay, sand)?
     What makes the best walls? (tires, boards, nothing)?
     What should the width of the track be (4 feet)?

     Any other suggestions/ ideas would be great.  What is your
local track like?  Any magizine articles on the subject out there?
     Thanks,
Aaron Brasslett
University of Maine
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: mccoy@nevada.edu (MARY MCCOY)
Subject: Re: 2 stroke vs. 4 stroke engines
Organization: University of Nevada System Computing Services
Distribution: rec.models.rc
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1992 03:37:31 GMT

In article <1992Apr9.173843.7058@tin.monsanto.com> lesnyd@monsanto.com (Larry Snyder) writes:
>I fly a little plane with a .20 2-stroke  (K&B Sportster .20) and a big 
>plane with a Saito FA120S 4-stroke. 
>
>Similarities:
>
>1. Both start very easily. I use an electric starter but don't need to, 
>really. I just like my fingers.
>
>2. Both are dependable.
>
>3. Both idle well.
>
>Differences:
>
>1. The K&B cost $40, the Saito $300
>
>2. The Saito is more picky about fuel draw.

Although there is a vast difference in price between your two
engines, there is another difference still - you $40 K&B carries
a LIFETIME WARRANTY. If it stops running or blows up or breaks a
crankshaft, K&B will fix or replace it for the cost of postage.

Some guys scoff at the K&B sportsters and I will admit to having
problems with a couple of .45s, but the fact is they do honor
that warranty. They won't ask the circumstances in which the
engine failed. They'll simply fix it or replace it. That's a
heck of a deal.

As a contrast, about a year ago, I bought a Webra silverline
.40. At some point, Webra began assembling these engines with
unbushed connecting rods. Mine lasted about six weeks by which
 time the upper conn rod journal had worn itself elliptical. Sent it,
through the dealer, to the closest factory rep. in Minden, NV.
The gentleman disassembled the engine and sent it back in
pieces with a scrawled note telling me to run the engine with
castor oil fuel (it had been run with Morgan's Omega Castor/
Synthetic blend). The dealer, Discount RC in Las Vegas, had
the replacement conn rod in stock and guess what - it had the
pretty bronze bushings. The point of all that is not that the
Webra was a bad engine, although it was. The point is that 
K&B takes their warranties seriously and some of their competitors
don't.

None of which has much to do with the relative merits of 2-stroke
vs. 4-stroke engines.

Duncan McCoy
Boulder City, NV
From: sl41k@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: engine problems
Date: 13 Apr 92 14:15:14 MDT
Organization: Utah State University

I'm fairly new to this news group, so bare with me.

I bought an airplane from a friend a little while ago with a K&B 40 engine.
I am having problems trying to tune the engine.  Does anybody out there
know anything about this engine and how to tune it properly?  Any advise
would be greatly appreciated.

Mike Lovell
sl41k@cc.usu.edu
From: linkosalo@cc.helsinki.fi
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Help with Expoy
Date: 9 Apr 92 09:02:48 GMT
Organization: University of Helsinki



In article <13062@texsun.Central.Sun.COM>, rob@firefox.UK.Sun.COM (Robert Latham - Sun EHQ - CS) writes:
> I've always dreaded this happening is there anything I can do other than strip it
> off and start again, or should I wait a few more days.
> 
> Thanks
> Robert

If the epoxy hasn't hardened yet, it will never be strong enough even if it
hardened some time. There must be something wrong either in the epoxy or in 
the mixing ratio (dare I say, maybe You miscalculated?). Anyway, I suggest that
You remove this unsuccesfull laminate, try to mix some epoxy say in a pot to
make sure it's OK, and then relaminate your wing.

Tapio Linkosalo, univ. of Helsinki, Finland
Internet: tapio.linkosalo@helsinki.fi
From: x91drew@gw.wmich.edu
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: R/C flight simulator
Date: 12 Apr 92 16:22:14 GMT
Article-I.D.: gw.1992Apr12.112214.3798
Distribution: na
Organization: Western Michigan University

>      Does anybody know of a R/C plane flight simulator on
> microcomputers (preferably of the MS-DOS type)? 
> x                  David Fritchman    david@baervan.nmt.edu               x

I have used two of the major flight simulators on the market (Dave Brown, and
R/C AeroChopper).  The Dave Brown simulator came with a two stick controller,
the view was from about head level and the plane flew pretty realistically. 
My favorite out of the two was R/C AeroChopper though.  This program also used
a two stick control (an actual Futaba Conquest radio casing) set up as a six
channel radio.  The program has many user adjustable perameters including the
ability to adjust height to ground, full wind control, and full control of the
airplanes flight characteristics just to name a few.  The program can also
simulate helicopter flight.  I am a self taught RC pilot and would probably not
still own my first airplane if I hadn't of purchased R/C AeroChopper.  R/C
AeroChopper will be available for the IBM and compatables in May.  	
From: billg@hpspdla.spd.HP.COM (Bill Gingras)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1992 15:06:34 GMT
Subject: NEVER do this!!
Organization: HP Stanford Park - Palo Alto, CA
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc


Last week, I spray painted the fuselage of my curent sailplane project
with Krylon brand gloss enamel paint (the fuse had been fiberglassed and
primed prior to the paint application).  After letting it dry for three
days, I figured I could achieve a really hard finish if I left it in my
car during the day so that the heat would speed up any residual drying.
The result:

The paint on one half of the tail surface bubbled up

Well, I got the idea that if I heated the bubbled surface and pressed it
back down, that it would re-adhere to the surface.  So I took an iron on
a fairly low setting (I don't own a heat gun) pierced the bubbles with a
pin, layed some plain paper over the bubbles, and then quickly wiped the
iron over the surface.  The result:

The paper stuck fast to the painted surface.

In dismay, I peeled the paper off (which took some paint with it),
sanded the area with 600 sandpaper, and then went over it with black
magic marker (the paint color is black).  It's somewhat ugly, but I
guess it'll still fly the same.

- Bill G


Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: svoboda@rtsg.mot.com (David Svoboda)
Subject: Heating Epoxy (was Re: Modeling Tips)
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1992 18:37:54 GMT

In article <1992Apr03.202201.19089@bmerh2.bnr.ca> mkfeil@bcrki9.bnr.ca () writes:
|
|I thought heat speeded up the chemical reaction, and that it slowed down in
|cold (i.e. you can save some mixed epoxy for a while in the freezer)?

Yes, it does.  Heating epoxy will make it set up faster, not slower.  If
you put a batch of mixed epoxy in the freezer, it will last long enough that
you can still use it the next day.  (This doesn't work for quickset epoxy,
because it sets before it gets a chance to cool down.)  This is most
useful for epoxy paints, like Superpoxy.

|(By the way, epoxy does not really "dry", it's a chemical reaction between
|the resin and the hardener (unlike many other glues). That's why a big
|batch of epoxy takes the same time to harden as a small batch.)

Well, in my experience, a big batch dries *faster*, because the exothermic
reaction is more concentrated by the extra mass.  If you have a sizeable
amount of quickset epoxy in a mixing cup, feel the bottom of the cup just
as it starts to jell.  It will be quite hot.

Something about heating epoxy: be sure to do this with VERY good ventilation.
The fumes from heated epoxy are toxic, and breathing too much of it will 
cause an allergic reaction to happen.  This reaction makes the tissues
around your heart swell, and it feels like you are having a heart attack.
The sensitization is long lasting.  I was completely unable to breathe 
epoxy fumes, heated or not, for a long time.  I think I am finally over it,
but I now prefer to thin epoxy chemically, rather than heating it.

If you really have to heat it, I suggest a sun lamp, and leave the room
while it sets up.  Then ventilate well before you re-enter.

			Dave Svoboda, Palatine IL
From: petera@bcrka398.bnr.ca (Peter Ashwood-Smith 1600361)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Slats v.s Flaps
Date: 14 Apr 92 21:04:54 GMT
Reply-To: petera@bcrka398.bnr.ca (Peter Ashwood-Smith 1600361)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Ottawa, Canada


   Has anybody given any thought to slats? I read a while
back in rec.aviation that slats can contribute more than flaps
to increasing a wing's lift. I've seen dozens of models
with flaps/spoilers but never one with working slats, what gives?

   Peter Ashwood-Smith
From: polito@sal-sun11.usc.edu (Ryan Polito)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Flaps Vs Brakes (1st time in 92!)
Date: 14 Apr 1992 11:17:05 -0700
Organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA
Distribution: world
Reply-To: polito@sal-sun11.usc.edu (Ryan Polito)
NNTP-Posting-Host: sal-sun11.usc.edu


In article <1992Apr13.110155.4646@csc.canterbury.ac.nz>, elec140@csc.canterbury.ac.nz writes:
|> I think it's over a year since this subject last came up, so it must be about
|> time for a rehash :->
|> 
|> I flew my electric glider in a glider contest yesterday (our clubs lets
|> electrics compete with the gliders, which works quite well), but as usual had a
|> few problems with the spot landing. With a $300 (NZ) motor on the nose and
|> lightweight construction, I'm very reluctant to bang the model in hard like the
|> glider guys do (some of them dig holes!). So I'm going to build a new wing soon
|> with a bigger span, and am wondering whether to install flaps or air brakes.
|> 
|> So the question is: What are the pro's and con's of brakes Vs flaps, especially
|> wrt (gentle) spot landings. I'm not worried about getting the model out of
|> thermals, it's quite strong enough to loop, roll, and/or spin to lose height.
|> 
|> Any responses much appreciated, thanks.
|> 
|> --
|> *********************************************************
|> Chris Kaiser
|> Postgrad - Elec Eng Dept
|> Canterbury University
|> Christchurch, NEW ZEALAND
|> 
|> E.MAIL: kaiser@elec.canterbury.ac.nz
|> *********************************************************
|> 	"When you're fresh out of lawyers
|>  	 You don't know how good it's gonna feel"
|> 		- Al Stewart, 1988
|> *********************************************************

First off, If you use airbrakes you will essentially loose all of you lift and drop like a rock.  If that is the effect that you are looking for then go for it.   Second, I think what you are looking for are flaps.  These increase you lift  which allows you to maintain level flight at slower speeds and in turn have softer and more controlable landings.  I believe flaps will get you where you want to go.  Good luck.

				Ryan
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Controlling Glow Plugs
From: elec140@csc.canterbury.ac.nz
Date: 13 Apr 92 10:46:17 +1200
Organization: University of Canterbury, Christchurch, New Zealand

In article <wdu8GCe00UzxM1dIhu@andrew.cmu.edu>, mm7q+@andrew.cmu.edu (Michael Oliver Muller) writes:
>
>>I don't really understand your question.  You want to have a way
>>to control the current thru the plug element.  On my power panel,
>>about 3 amps gives a nice bright orange heat to the element.  The
>>only way I know how to alter the current in a fixed resistance
>>circuit (glow plug) is to alter the voltage that the plug sees.

I think the original poster wanted to know whether a glow plug should be driven
from a constant current source or a constant voltage source.

> Two questions about this comment:
>
> 1.     Does the resistance change as the glow plug heats up?

Yes it does. However see my next comment.

> 2.     What is the resistance of a glow plug?

2V divided by 3 or 4A gives a resistance of about 0.5 to 0.7 ohms. The change
as the plug heats up is only a small fraction of this.

I built up my glow plug driver from a circuit in a 1980 (or thereabouts)
electronics magazine. It actually uses a constant **resistance** circuit, since
the resistance of the plug is directly proportional to its temperature. If the
plug cools down (eg flooded) then the driver pokes more current thru the plug
to keep its resistance the same. This keeps the plug glowing nice and red and
burns off the excess fuel. As the fuel burns off the plug temperature rises and
the driver cuts down the current. Since the resistance change is quite small,
the circuit uses a balanced bridge network to detect it.

This system works very well indeed, and in my experience is far superior to
either constant current or constant voltage drivers. You simply adjust the
driver so that the plug is glowing the correct colour, and then forget it.
Another great advantage is it won't burn plugs out if left connected when the
engine is running.

The circuit runs off 12V, and uses a switching design so no big heat sink is
required. And despite the circuit being 10 years old, all the components are
still currently available or easily substituted for.

*********************************************************
Chris Kaiser
Postgrad - Elec Eng Dept
Canterbury University
Christchurch, NEW ZEALAND

E.MAIL: kaiser@elec.canterbury.ac.nz
*********************************************************
	"When you're fresh out of lawyers
 	 You don't know how good it's gonna feel"
		- Al Stewart, 1988
*********************************************************
From: rogue@hill.gnu.ai.mit.edu (The Mystic)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: oops.
Date: 6 Apr 92 01:58:42 GMT
Article-I.D.: hill.ROGUE.92Apr5215842
Distribution: rec
Organization: Parthix Development Corp <> Project Vortex

Sorry about the double sig.  Eliminated.

--Ben Grubin
--


[-=*=-][-=*=-][-=*=-][-=*=-][-=*=-][-=*=-][-=*=-][-=*=-][-=*=-][-=*=-][-=*=-]
Ben Grubin - KA1UEB          The opinions stated above are my own.  Period.
The Free Software Foundation - Project GNU   Email: rogue@gnu.ai.mit.edu
Member of the League for Programming Freedom-Contact league@prep.ai.mit.edu!
[-=*=-][-=*=-][-=*=-][-=*=-][-=*=-][-=*=-][-=*=-][-=*=-][-=*=-][-=*=-][-=*=-]
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: mccoy@nevada.edu (MARY MCCOY)
Subject: Re: Newbie Questions
Organization: University of Nevada System Computing Services
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1992 23:14:21 GMT

In article <1992Apr6.204501.28237@pslu1.psl.wisc.edu> pfs@pslu1.psl.wisc.edu (Paul Schnettler) writes:
>
>I have just aquired a rx/tx FUTABA system from a friend. The equip.
>is probably 5 or 6 years old and is an AM 27Mhz set-up.
>
>Second: I am thinking of purchasing a Midwest Products Aerostar 40
>This seems to be the favorite trainer in this area. Has anyone built
>and flown this model? Are there any tips one could give me concerning
>building this model? I have an OS .40 two stroker to mount on it. Will
>it allow me to do a bit of aerobatics once I get proficient?

Paul - The Midwest Aerostar is a good trainer. The airplane has a flat-
bottom airfoil which will make inverted and outside maneuvers tricky,
if not impossible. The plane is designed to go round and round while
you learn to take off, fly and land. It should be able to do loops,
stall turns (hammerheads), and inside Cuban 8s. Snap rolls, if you
crank up the control throws will be stately, rather than snappy. Learn
with the Aerostar, then move up to a different airplane to learn your
aerobatics. Your OS .40 will fly the Aerostar just fine.

	The old 27 MHZ Futaba radio system is in the Citizen's Band (CB)
and SHOULD NOT BE USED TO FLY YOUR PLANE. Anybody with a CB radio will
be able to knock your airplane out of the sky. Protect your investment
in your airplane - buy a good radio to control it with. If you plan to
fly with your 27 MHZ radio, be aware that you may not be allowed to
use it at a sanctioned field and, furthermore, other fliers might not
want you flying anywhere in their vicinity with it.

	Your old radio would do fine in a boat or a car either of
which, if out of control, do not come hurdling out of the sky at
65-70 mph.

	Good luck with your Aerostar. RC aircraft are great fun!

Duncan McCoy
Boulder City, NV




Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: otten@icase.edu (John Otten)
Subject: Electric Sailplane questions
Organization: ICASE/NASA Langley
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 15:41:21 GMT

This question is partially answered in the FAQ, but I thought I would
send it out to see what comments/suggestions would be given.

Several years ago I bought an ARF sailplane (modeltech Angel 1900),
and have become comfortable with it on the high-start and its basic
control. So, it has served its purpose. I am now considering
buying an electric, so I won't have to mess with the high start
anymore. I currently have a 3 channel Cox/Sanwa radio with two
servos (probably not up to the latest standards since I bought it
in Jan '89). It has been over a decade since I have constructed
anything from a regular kit (I used to build a lot of free flight
gliders before college), but I think I remember enough that I won't
have too much problem with a kit on the scale of the Gentle Lady.
About the only real changes have been the use of CA adhesive & 
Monokote instead of silkspan (anybody remember silkspan?). I used
monokote on the ARF kit, so I have had at least *some* experience.
But, I have no knowledge of fiberglass construction and details from
that end.

So, anyway, a couple of questions...
1) What would be a good electric sailplane to move up to? I am
considering the electric version of the Gentle Lady (electra?).
Any other suggestions?

2) Will I need to buy another servo to control the motor or do
the speed controllers recieve the signals directly from the
reciever? OR-- What exactly do I need to buy in terms of radio
equipment?

3) Can anyone give me any info on battery packs? The radio I have
right now uses dry cells, but can be converted to rechargable cells.
At the least I imagine I would need packs for the motor, the reciever
and the transmitter, plus maybe a spare pack for the motor. I guess
I would also need to buy a charger... preferably one that I could
use with my car battery and houshold current.

I would like to keep this venture below $120 if possible (about
$60 for the kit, and $60 for the accessories). Does this appear
likely? (Last I looked in the Tower Hobbies catalog, the electra
was about $45)

As always, if there is any interest, I will post a summary of
the responses.

Thanks,
John

otten@icase.edu
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: Iskandar Taib <ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu>
Subject: Re: Epoxy Substitutes
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1992 20:43:38 -0500

In article <1992Apr6.192641.1672@vax1.mankato.msus.edu> ultra10@vax1.mankato.msus.edu writes:
>I am new to this group. I have been flying for about 2 years. I have a question
>about epoxy sustitutes. I build my own styrofoam wings and would like to know
>if anyone knows of any inexpensive substitutions for epoxy resins for joining
>and fiberglassing. In the past I have used regular wood glue with some
>porous, non-streching fabrics to join a wing. I holds well, is a little
>heavier but it takes a while to dry completely.


A person called Ron St. Jean wrote a series of articles some 
time ago about using "structureless foam composites". Essen-
tially styrofoam covered with damp silkspan and white glue.
Supposedly very light and strong, and also b\very stiff. No 
spars needed. I tried it myself (used spars though) and ended
up with a very stiff wing. 

Come to think of it I used to build a British combat model 
called "Superstar". This was the one that started the foamie
craze that started about 1976. I covered them (as per in-
structions) using damp giftwrap, with thinned-down wallpaper 
paste. Wings were also very stiff. I used clear polyurethane 
on top of the paper. I also had a good deal of fun choosing 
giftwrap.... there were some very inappropriate ones out there. 
They sell wide rolls of white bond paper in craft stores. Why
not give it a try? Can't hurt...it should take paint no prob-
lem or you can iron on solarfilm on top of the paper. 





-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Iskandar Taib                          | The only thing worse than Peach ala
Internet: NTAIB@SILVER.UCS.INDIANA.EDU |    Frog is Frog ala Peach
Bitnet:   NTAIB@IUBACS                 !
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: snowem@echidna.unx.sas.com (Walter Edward Martin)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: micro RC gear for SMALL gliders
Date: 15 Apr 92 12:30:52 GMT
Organization: SAS Institute Inc.
Originator: snowem@echidna.unx.sas.com
X-Bytes: 1433

I need some facts/opinions. . . .

I am considering building a small hand launched RC glider.
The smallest radio I've seen so far is a Cannon 4-channel
system with the following specs.:
   
     receiver             0.56 oz.
     CE-9 servo           0.43 oz. ( X 2)
     270 mah batt.        2.1  oz.
     ----------------------------
     TOTAL flight weight  3.52 oz.

The system price (xmitter, Ni-Cads, chargers, etc.) is $244.95
for a 2 servo system. 

The following questions arise (especially since I haven't flown
RC planes for 15 years):

1) Is Cannon equipment good stuff? Any service problems etc.?

2) Is there a lighter radio system?

3) Is this a good price? Where can I get this system cheaper?

4) Are there any good RC/HLG kits available? Who stocks them
   (mail order) and how much do they cost?

Well that should do it! I'll collect all the responses I
receive and post them for interested parties. If this project
comes to pass I'll post updates from time to time.

Thanks in advance for any responses. . .

Walt Martin

-----------------------------
This parrot is no more. It has ceased to be. It's expired and gone to 
Walt Martin        SAS Institute Inc.| meet its maker.  This is a late
snowem@unx.sas.com SAS Campus Drive  | parrot.  It's a stiff. Bereft of
(919) 677-8000      Cary, NC 27513   | life, it rests in peace. It's rung
down the curtain and joined the choir invisible. This is an ex-parrot.
From: johnc@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (John Cowie)
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1992 13:33:53 GMT
Subject: Re: Great Planes Super Sportster 90/120 review
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA