HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: mac@ur.utk.edu (Richard J. McDougald)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: empty film cannister - recycling
Summary: Give 'em to the teeney boppers
Keywords: recycling
Date: 15 Oct 92 21:21:52 GMT
Organization: University of Tennessee

In article <1992Oct14.164645.2011@spider.co.uk> mikec@spider.co.uk (Mike Coren) writes:

>In article <1992Oct13.185018.3690@welchgate.welch.jhu.edu> bonnie@welchgate.welch.jhu.edu (Bonnie L. Maidak) writes:
>>Hello photography afficiandos,
>>
>>Does anyone know where empty film cannisters can be recycled? It tears
>>my heart that the plastic is going to end up in a land dump somewhere.
>>
>>Please send e-mail or contact in other ways. I do not regularly read
>>this newsgroup, although I did check the topics of recent postings
>>and didn't see that this topic was mentioned.
>>
>>If I receive enough informative replies, I will summarize and post.
>>
>>Thanks very much.
>>
>>-Bonnie L. Maidak
>>(410) 614-0443 (phone, with voice mail)
>>(410) 614-0434 (fax)
>>bonnie@library.welch.jhu.edu

Here in our lab, we save them and every few weeks some folks from
the Anthropology Dept. get them.  They put small artifacts in them from
digs, etc.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
 Mac McDougald                   *
 The Photography Center          *   Any opinions expressed herein 
 Rm. 91 Comm. Bldg.              *   are not necessarily (actually,
 Univ. of Tenn. Knoxville 37916  *   are almost CERTAINLY NOT) those
 mac@ur.utk.edu                  *   of The University of Tennessee. 
 mac@utkvx.bitnet                *      
 (615-974-3449)                  *   "Things are more like they are now     
 (615-974-6435) FAX              *    than they've ever been before."
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From: eg23+@andrew.cmu.edu (Ergin Guney)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: question about a flash
Date: 12 Oct 92 15:49:40 GMT
Organization: Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA

>I have a Canon Speedlite 244T flash that I plan to use on a Pentax K1000.
>I got the flash used and without instructions.  What I need to know is what 
>F stop and shutter speed to set the camera at when I am using the flash.

I'm not familiar with Canon Speedlite 244T, but I'm sure it has a dial
or swith to set the ASA/ISO number of the film and a readout which shows
the aperture that you must set depending on your subject distance. After
setting the ASA/ISO on the flash unit to the one of the film you are
using, you should see how far your subject is (just focus and look on
the focusing dial to see what the approximate distance is). Then set the
aperture to the one which corresponds to that distance on the readout on
the back of the flash unit.
    If there is no such readout, then you must find out the "guide
number" of that flash for the speed of the film you are using. This may
be written somewhere on the flash. If it's not, then you may calculate
it if you know the right aperture setting of that flash for ANY distance
for the speed of the film you are using. If you know such a correct
setting, the guide number will be that aperture multiplied by that
distance. Then you can shoot at any distance by using this guide number;
just set the aperture to the value "guide number / distance". But be
sure to use the same distance unit for the guide number and the distance
(feet for feet, meters for meters). If you know the guide number for
feet, then you must divide the guide number by the distance in feet.
Same thing for meters.
    If the guide number isn't indicated anywhere, and you don't know any
single correct aperture setting that you can calculate the guide number
from, then you're on your own. You should learn what the guide number of
a Canon Speedlite 244T is, by writing or calling Canon, or from someone
who has had experience with that flash unit.

Good luck!..
ERGIN
From: donl@glass.esd.sgi.com (donl mathis)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Posting scanned pictures, Macbeth ColorChecker
Date: 8 Oct 92 22:40:45 GMT
Reply-To: donl@glass.esd.sgi.com (donl mathis)
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc., Mountain View, CA, USA


In article <1992Oct6.030506.1@cc.curtin.edu.au>,
zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au (Paul Repacholi) writes:

|> The first image I would like too see is the wonderfull, dynamic, exciting...
|> McBeth colour chart... sorry, couldn't resist. actualy, not a
scanning of it,
|> that would be full of errors, but a synthesised image of the correct
data for
|> the colour patches. We could then at least see the colour rendition
errors in
|> our monitors. A grey scale would be numero 2 on my list. Not exactaly Robert
|> Maplethorpe stuff I realize, but if we are goning to bother, can we
please do
|> it right? Or at least with quantifiable errors...

I don't think this is possible, because the numbers used to represent
red, green, and blue can only be "correct" with respect to specific
spectral definitions of those colors.  There is no one, true definition
of "blue" that will apply to the MacBeth chart, and to any monitor, or
anything else, for that matter.  You can define blue in terms of the
values reported by your densitometer, but they may very well be a
little bit different than the values reported by mine.  You might be
adventurous enough to define them in terms of a balance of wavelengths,
but finding dyes, filters, and etc. to produce that balance of
wavelengths will be no easy task.

In other words, apart from the values not being computable, even if
they were, there would be no way to determine how correct they were,
because there is no pure standard to compare them with.  The values
will eventually have to be displayed on a monitor, color printer, or
some other device, in order to become real colors, and there is no
"right answer".  You could certainly use such a chart to make
comparisons between different output methods, but to do that, you will
have to adopt a method of making the measurements.  That method becomes
your own standard, not a universal standard.

I'm not sure how the filters in a typical monitor's screen would
compare to the saturation and balance of the dyes used in the MacBeth
chart; I just don't know.  I know that as I sit an look at my monitor
now, the overall contrast is incredibly low, partly because of the room
lights.  I suspect if the lights were turned out, things could be
improved dramatically.  I don't know how the colors compare, though.  I
do know that the colors between different monitors can be very, very
different.

- donl mathis at Silicon Graphics Computer Systems, Mountain View, CA
donl@sgi.com

Warn your kids -- "Math is tough."
From: andyc@hplsla.hp.com (Andy Cassino)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: 8x10, Christopher Burkett, light sources
Date: 16 Oct 92 16:00:16 GMT
Article-I.D.: hplsla.5360816
Organization: HP Lake Stevens, WA


About this idea of shooting directly on Cibachrome in a view camera, and
the resulting image being backwards... will one of the proponents of this
assertion please explain why Polaroid film exposed in a view camera doesn't
come out "backwards"? It seems to me that in both cases the emulsion is facing
the lens during exposure and in both cases the viewer looks at the emulsion 
side of the print. And Polaroids don't come out backwards, neither when 
exposed in a view camera or any other other Polaroid-capable camera, which 
all use a taking lens to expose the emulsion side of the film which is 
then viewed. Do extra-terrestials get involved when Cibachrome is exposed?

    %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
    % Andy Cassino                                       %
    % Hewlett-Packard - Lake Stevens Instrument Division %
    %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
From: eigo@cau1.crc.canon.co.jp (Eigo Kawakami)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Why is Canon called Canon
Date: 13 Oct 92 09:47:36 GMT
Organization: Future Projects Center, Canon Inc., Atsugi, Japan.

In article <PD.92Oct12011340@horus.sics.se> pd@sics.se (Per Danielsson) writes:
> The first camera was the Kwanon with a KasyaPa 50mm/f3.5 lens, and the
> second model was the Canon Original with a Nikkor(!) 50mm/f4.5 lens.

	 Kwanon was the prototypic camera, and the first production
	model was Hansa Canon with a Nikkor 50mm/f3.5 lens in 1936.
 
In article <92565@netnews.upenn.edu> liang@saul.cis.upenn.edu (Chuck Liang) writes:
|   Almost.  Kwanon was the first cameras (rough Leica D copies) designed
| by a company called Seiki-Kogaku, which formed in 1933.  In 1947 the
| company name was changed to Canon.

	FYI;
		1933-	Seiki-Kogaku-Kenkyusyo
		1936-	Nihon-Seiki-Kogaku-Kenkyusyo
		1937-	Seiki-Kogaku-Kogyo Inc.
		1947-	Canon Camera Inc.
		1969-	Canon Inc.
--
Eigo Kawakami
eigo@crc.canon.co.jp
From: root@ardour
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Ektar vs. Gold
Date: 8 Oct 92 21:14:32 GMT
Reply-To: hsong@ardour.bellcore.com
Organization: NJ

In article <1992Oct8.154243.13922@progress.com>, matth@progress.COM (Matthew J. Harper) writes:

|>   Only thing different was where we got them developed.
|> 
|>   I surmise that some shops can do Kodak well, some can do Fuji well and
|> few can do both well.
|> 
|> -Matth

You are absolutely right!

Whenever I saw articles claiming colors from a certain (nega) film look better
than those from a different negative film, I would like to suggest the authors
look up John Hedgecoe (sp?)'s book.
He photographed a face of a white female with different negative color
films and let the manufacturers develop and print the picture on their papers.
He then photographed the prints for the book.  Amazingly, all the
colors were so similar that I cannot say which one is better than others.
He then photographed the same face with several different slide
films, and again let the manufacturers develop them. He then conveyed the
image on his book.     This time, the differences among the different color
slides are obvious.

So folks, I do not see any point when you people(guys) claim colors
from a certain NEGATIVE film are better than those from others.  There are 
so many variables in the reproduction of a negative film.  The film is just one
variable among many others such as:

1.  film
2.  developing process. C-41 may be different between manufacturers.
   Some labs may develop three rolls with an amount of chemicals for only
   two rolls.
3.  the enlarger lamp.  It ages.
4.  Color balance setup in the enlarger.
5.  Enlarging lens      ==> sharpness, contrast, uniformity and 
                            slightly color as well.
6.  focusing on the easle  ==> sharpness.
7.  printing paper.

Rule of thumb:
1.  Find decent labs for your choices of films.  I use Kodalux for Kodaks
   and Fuji Anaheim for Fuji's.    Fuji has a technology center near
   Anaheim which shares facility with the lab.

2.  As a special instruction, do not let them play with the color balance
   on their enlargers.  Instruct them to use their standard color balance
   which has already been set up for their specific films.  Of course, you
   should never use your daylight films under the indoor lighting.   You 
   also need to use some filters in the shadow on a sunny day.
   I realized that letting them do custom-color-balancing would only hurt the
   picture, unless you include a 18% grey picture and they are kind enough   
   to measure the first grey picture with their color meter.

	Hugh
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: sawicki@src.dec.com (Filip Sawicki)
Subject: Minolta 24-50mm AF info needed
Keywords: Minolta
Organization: DEC Systems Research Center
Date: Sat, 10 Oct 92 02:47:26 GMT


Hey,

   I have just received Minolta AF zoom 24-50/4 from mail order. As advised in
FAQ, I decided to buy Minolta instead of Sigma. Well, but this zoom looks plastic
(too light as for zoom with 55mm filter diameter) and has loose focus ring; in
other words, it is very ``amateurish''. Sigma is built much better.

   If any of you have this lens, or knows its technical data from a photo
magazine, please e-mail me. I am very concerned with it's overall quality, and
have less than two weeks to decide. Test pictures will not tell everything, for
example the lens durability.

   Thanks in advance,

fi.
Newsgroups: rec.photo,rec.travel
From: ka1gt@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (robert.m.atkins)
Subject: Ano Nuevo permits for elephant seals - When? Where?
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 22:04:58 GMT
Followup-To: poster
Keywords: elephant seals photography

Last year I managed to get into Ano Nuevo State Reserve in CA to see the
elephant seals (great photographic oportunity) in early February. Getting
in was a real problem as I did not have a ticket and I had to wait around
in the hope of a "no-show" (I got lucky). I'll be out there again next
year and I wonder if someone could e-mail me details of when and where
the tickets go on sale. I hear that it is essential to get a call in ASAP
after sale starts as they sell out in a matter of days. I think the sale
is sometime in late October or November? I can strongly recommend getting
out there is you are at all interested in wildlife and/or wildlife
photography. 

Bob Atkins   e-mail direct to att!clockwise!rma (or reply to this message).

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: ben_wen@athena.mit.edu (Benson Wen)
Subject: Re: EOS - weatherproof?
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Distribution: rec.photo
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 14:57:36 GMT

In article <26526@castle.ed.ac.uk> hrvoje@castle.ed.ac.uk (H Hecimovic) writes:

   Hi, does anybody has any EXPERIENCE using EOS (I have Rebel) in bad
   weather - fog, drizzle, shower?

   Hrvoje

Both my 630 and 10s have seen an hour of non-trival rain (more than a
drizzle, less than a downpour) with a 24f2.8, and the 80-200f2.8.
After an immediate drying, geez it's fine!

The 10s has been dropped a buttload of times from 3-4 ft and it's
still happy. 

Plus both of these see a lot of my shoulder pack, bouncing around all
day. 

The 10s has been in slightly cold weather, 32F, and it's still
ticking.  Light snow (sticky, not driving) for 1hr, immediate drying.

Hey, it's terrific.

-ben
--

|| Benson Wen
|| ben_wen@athena.mit.edu
|| queeph@hing.lcs.mit.edu
Xref: sparky rec.photo:17815 alt.cd-rom:3628 alt.graphics.pixutils:2249
From: davidsen@ariel.crd.GE.COM (william E Davidsen)
Newsgroups: rec.photo,alt.cd-rom,alt.graphics.pixutils
Subject: Re: Sample of first Photo_CD
Keywords: Photo_CD, Seward, Alaska, JPEG, 16Base, panorama
Date: 13 Oct 92 12:31:59 GMT
Reply-To: davidsen@crd.ge.com (bill davidsen)
Organization: GE Corporate R&D Center, Schenectady NY

In article <1992Oct10.003422.13530@prpa.philips.com>, pieter@prpa.philips.com (Pieter van der Meulen) writes:
| In alt.binaries.pictures.misc I have posted a 4-part sample
| of my first Photo_CD labeled "seward.jpg" (Seward harbor,
| Alaska). It's taken from the highest resolution available
| (3072x2048) and is clipped to panorama size: 2944x900.
| Highly compressed with JPEG (Q=40), the result is still
| reasonably good. You may be able to notice the grain.
| Does it make sense to scan at 6Kx4K? For 100ASA film I
| have my doubts...

I have to agree that higher res probably won't buy you much. I scan
prints (4x6 roughly) at 300 dpi, and I don't feel there's much I miss. I
think you can get additional info into the picture with low grain film,
though, perhaps the Ektar or Gold series? Almost all the stuff I've shot
recently was low light and fast film, so I don't have to work too hard
to find grain.
-- 
bill davidsen, GE Corp. R&D Center; Box 8; Schenectady NY 12345
    Keyboard controller has been disabled, press F1 to continue.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: rspeirs@javelin.sim.es.com (Ron Speirs)
Subject: Re: Platinum printing?
Organization: Evans & Sutherland Computer Corporation
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 16:53:26 GMT

In article <cep6DK_00VIB81CUkD@andrew.cmu.edu> lk10+@andrew.cmu.edu (Leslie Jo Kavchak) writes:
>I am looking for any available information on where to by chemicals or
>precoated papers to do platinum printing.  I have done some non-silver
>processing before so mixing chemicals etc. should not be a problem -
>however I recently heard there is a company producing platinum papers. 
>I would much rather go that route.  Any info greatly appreciated!!
>
I have seen advertisements from Bostick & Sullivan in Van Nuys, CA, regarding
platinum and palladium printing.  You might try Directory Assistance to get
their number.

PS:  Is your wallet fat and healthy?

Ron Speirs, Evans & Sutherland Computer Corp., Salt Lake City, Utah
From: ben_wen@athena.mit.edu (Benson Wen)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Good photo shop(s) in Boston area?
Date: 12 Oct 92 03:31:24 GMT
	<BSON.92Oct9154441@geech.gnu.ai.mit.edu>
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology

Plus there's 

General Photo
71-73 Canal Street
Boston

They're right by the N. Station T-stop.

They have a modest selection of used equipment and a good stock of b&w
paper and chemistry.  The have the best paper/chemistry/b&w film
prices overall in a survey my friends and I did comparing SBI, Hunt
Drug, and General Photo.

They cater to students, too.

And there's

Campus Camera
Kenmore Square
BU Bookstore Mall.

They have a good selection of Bogen tripods and a moderate selection
of Domke and Photoflex Bags.  Plus they have a small used equip dept.
They have chemistry and paper too.
They too cater to students.

-Ben
--

|| Benson Wen
|| ben_wen@athena.mit.edu
|| queeph@hing.lcs.mit.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: danisch@ira.uka.de (Hadmut Danisch )
Subject: Re: Photo-CD Recorder
Reply-To: danisch@ira.uka.de
Organization: Univ. Karlsruhe
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 12:32:20 GMT

Robert Koch <kochb@ccmail.dayton.saic.com> writes:

>Does anyone have info n the Photo CD recorder, costs or where I can get
>info and technical info.
>EMAIL welcome.

It is the Philips CDD 521. It is able to write
CD-Audio, CD-ROM, CD-ROM/XA, CD-I, Photo-CD,...

On the last CeBIT they told me special price on fare
of about DM 14.000,- + taxes.


Hadmut
From: huw@castle.ed.ac.uk (H G J Evans)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Cropping slides
Date: 8 Oct 92 10:41:11 GMT
Organization: Edinburgh University

In article <1992Oct7.195453.610@andersen.co.uk> sdpage@andersen.co.uk (Stephen Page) writes:
>Can anyone suggest a good way to crop slides for projection?
>
>I've seen masks in shops, but these look rather limited. The local photo
>shop suggests using masking tape, which sounds rather unpleasant!


I always used ordinary kitchen foil sandwiched against the transparency
in GePe glass mounts. It could be cut, or folded once, to give a good
straight edge and was still thin enough not to cause flare. The glass
mounts aren't cheap though.


Huw.
From: ray@tsw.UUCP (Ray Izumi)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Couple of questions
Date: 15 Oct 92 21:34:45 GMT
Organization: The System Works, Redmond, WA

In article <1992Oct7.150920.14511@umr.edu> tonyp@cs.umr.edu (Tony Phillips) writes:
>
>I'm considering the following places to order from:  B&H, Adorama, and
>Honest Abe's Camera world.  Opinions of these places for mail order?
>
I've ordered from  B&H and Adorama, and they're mostly OK but will always
tell you that an item is in stock when in fact a) they don't really know
or b) they're lying. And they bill your credit card immediately. Other than 
that, I've had good service from them. Don't order anything you need in
a hurry.

I'd heard so many good things about Camera World of Oregon that I ordered
a Nikon 60mm micro from them; they said that it was in stock and that 
I would have it in a few days, and I of course didn't believe it. Imagine
my amazement when the lens arrived THE NEXT DAY? And I hadn't specified
any priority shipping. Needless to say, I'll buy from them again, especially
if I'm in a hurry.

Don't have any experience with Honest Abe's, but with a name like that
how can you go wrong?

-- 
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Ray Izumi, The System Works, Redmond, WA     206-823-4685      uunet!tsw!ray
"No amount of not finding something proves it doesn't exist."
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: bw@TorreyPinesCA.ncr.com (Bruce White 3807)
Subject: JOBO wanted
Organization: NCR (Torrey Pines Development Center)
Disclaimer: This posting does not neccessarily reflect the opinions of NCR.
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 92 18:31:53 GMT

I would like to purchase a used Jobo CPP or CPA processor.
If you have one that you'd like to sell, please send
me a note.

--- Bruce
From: blue@sequent.com (Gil Delavous)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Thanks!
Date: 16 Oct 92 09:29:28 GMT
Article-I.D.: sequent.1992Oct16.092928.21469
Followup-To: blue@gateway.sequent.com
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems, Inc.

Thanks to all who replied to "How to make a good ghost illusion".
I will try to sumarize the answers as soon as I can and keep you
posted.

Gil Delavous.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: reuber@world.std.com (kent b reuber)
Subject: Re: Minolta lens -help required
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 21:45:57 GMT

babu@jhunix.hcf.jhu.edu (Natarajan Sureshbabu) writes:

>I am planning to buy a Minolta 3Xi. But I found out that
>in the range 35-80, they have only power zoom, and not auto zoom.
>Is there any other company making autofocus autozoom lens for 
>minolta 3xi. Also, can someone give me info asto how
>the autozoom is better? Thank you.

Sigma is bringing out some power zoom lenses for the Maxxum and the
Pentax PZ cameras.

I thought all Minolta's xi lenses were autozoom. The inability to autozoom
might be a function of the 3xi rather than the lenses themselves.

Is autozoom worth it?  I vote no. With auto zoom the camera "guesses" what
focal length the scene would look best in. I find that my 28-105 xi lens
is right about 1/3-1/2 the time. Also, I find manual focussing the power
zoom lenses somewhat tricky. 

Consider saving some money and investing in a Sigma or Tokina zoom.
Sigma's 28-70 UC lens is quite nice and cheap. If you need wide angle,
you'll find there's a significant difference between 35 and 28 mm.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: wert@yorktown.itd.nrl.navy.mil (Jerry Van Wert)
Subject: Flash bulbs needed...
Organization: Naval Research Lab, Washington, DC
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 17:05:47 GMT



I'm looking for flash bulbs (M3 I think) for flash I just
bought for a Poloroid Land 230.  As you might expect, I'm
not having much luck with the local stores (DC area). Any
suggestions as to a mail order companey?  Is it hopeless?


Also, I haven't seen the mail order review posting or the
camera comparison charts for a while now.  Have they been
moved elswhere or do I just keep missing them.  Sometimes
I'm out of town and messages die of old age...


Thanks,

Jerry
wert@itd.nrl.navy.mil

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au (Paul Repacholi)
Subject: Re: Ektar vs. Gold
Followup-To: rec.photo
Organization: Curtin University of Technology
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 20:15:05 GMT

> In article <1992Oct6.234811.550@informix.com>, neilw@informix.com (Neil
> Williams) wrote:
>> 
>> Seen on my last trip on United: "If you are seated in an exit row 
>> and can not (sic) read this card... please notify a crew member."
> 

On a simular light note, see at a shopping center today a sign,

"Guide dogs Welcome"

Couldn't help wonder if it was the blind or the dogs it is intentioned for. :-)

~Paul

Newsgroups: rec.photo