HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: Problem with router
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 23:29:58 GMT

harold.e.bamford writes
> In article <Bx9JGp.3yx@world.std.com> rdc@world.std.com (Ralph D Clifford)  
writes:
> >     I am having a problem with my router.
> 
> ...the most likely thing is the collet
> insert.  This is the hollow piece of metal that fits inside the chuck
> and around the shaft of the bit. 

The original poster said this was a low-end Sears router. Sear's routers
do *not* have collet inserts. The "collet" is actually just a part of
the router's shank. A pretty lousy design, IMHO.

The Sears routers built by Ryobi do have real collet cones.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: dave@pacdata.uucp (David Ambrose)
Subject: Re: Straight Edge for Jointer Alignment
Organization: Steppenwolf's Magic Theater
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 20:11:53 GMT

In article <140798@lll-winken.LLNL.GOV> gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot) writes:
>In article <1992Nov4.162742.12341@organpipe.uug.arizona.edu>, apoyner@as.arizona.edu (Tony Poyner) writes:
>> 
>Considering that the gib area takes the most stress, it's probably wise
>to avoid the triangular base to table interface if you can.  Here's a possible
>suggestion that may solve your problem.  Do obtain (rent?) a very good
>machinists straight edge.  Use this to determine exactly how high one
>end of each table is with respect to the end nearest the cutter head.
>Take the tables off and take them to a machine shop that has a large
>surface grinder, and have this machine shop grind your tables flat,
>straight, and correct for your gibs.  Reinstall.
>
>Since the tables supposedly were straight when the machine was new, I'd
>suggest checking the gib area for damage before embarking on this course.
>Also, measure three times.
>
	I'll second the above advice. The entire table was probably
surface flat as a unit before it left the factory.  Unless the castings
warped,  sagged,  or strain-relieved for some reason,  they should stay
that way.

	After removing the cutterhead,  take the entire machine into a 
machine shop and have it milled flat.  This will put both tables into
the correct relationship.  If you have trouble finding a shop that can
handle a job that big,  try an automotive machine shop which handles
truck engines.  The cylinder head of a large truck engine is about the
same size as your joiner.  Also,  you should only need about +/- .001 
flatness.  A large srufacing cutter will do that and be much cheaper
than grinding.



-- 
David Ambrose - Pacific Data Products           UUCP: uunet!pacdata!dave
619/597-3426 				    Internet: dave@pacdata.com
Play it cool,  play it cool,  fifty-fifty fire and ice -- Joni Mitchell
                Auto racing:  It's not just a sport,  it's an attitude.
From: garry@alice.att.com (garry hodgson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Looking for wood
Date: 13 Nov 92 18:21:36 GMT
Reply-To: garry@alice.UUCP ()
Distribution: rec
Organization: AT&T, Bell Labs

In article <1992Nov10.172813.7027@schbbs.mot.com> ACUS05@waccvm.corp.mot.com (Paul Anderson) writes:
>
>I have been looking for exotic woods in lumber.  Primarily, I am looking
>for burl walnut.
>
>I don't mine mail order.  Any and all suggestions welcomed.
>
>Thanks in advance...............
>
>Paul


Try Craftsman Wood service company, 1 800 543-9367.
I just bought a bunch o' exotics from them, and
they had the best prices.  Others include:

Constantines	1 800 223-8087
Bob Morgan Woodworking Supplies (502) 456-4752
Bristol Hardwoods	800 724-0132

Good luck.

-- 
Garry Hodgson			A slow winter day
AT&T Bell Labs			A night like forever
garry@alice.att.com		Sink like a stone
att!alice!garry			Float like a feather
From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 16:04:53 GMT
Subject: Re: Woodworking humor
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

eStoller@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu@UIUC (E.W. Stoller) writes:

>About 6 to 8 weeks ago there were several to many contributions of 
>woodworking humor in "one-liners", i.e., "Measure twice, cut once".  I was 
>about to copy or learn most of these when they were removed from the news 
>line.
>
>Can anyone help me by posting what they can remember of these, or, better 
>yet, think up some new ones?
>
>Thanks!
>----------
>

     How about:   "I may not be careful but I sure am slow!"
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 9 Nov 1992 13:59:18 EST
From:         FABY000 <FABY@NMUMUS.BITNET>
Subject:      Circular Saw recommendations

I recommend taking a close look at the worm drive sawa.  They are easier
to cut a straight line with and some are less that $150.  Consumer
Reports only tested one worm drive saw.  There are several others.
Roger Barry
From: fichtenbaum@desire.wright.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: problem with planer
Date: 11 Nov 92 21:56:33 EST
Organization:  Wright State University 

I have a 12" Delta portable planer.  I was planing some stock when
I noticed that one edge was thinner than the other.  I have reset
the knives but am still having a problem.  When I feed a narrow piece
of stock through the planer on the right hand side the planer
doesn't remove any material but when I feed it through on the left
hand side it does remove material.  I also tried drawing a line with
a pencil on a wide board and when I feed it through the planer it
removes the line on the left but not on the right.  I have spent the
last two hours trying to reset the knives but apparently to no avail.
Could there be anything else wrong with the planer?  Or am I just
having a problem setting the knives straight?  I am using the guide
that came with the planer to try and set the knives.  Can anyone
help?
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: akarpowicz@mta.ca (Adam Karpowicz)
Subject: Re: Warped Bench Top Response
Reply-To: akarpowicz@mta.ca
Organization: Mount Allison U, Sackville, N.B. Canada 
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 01:55:27 GMT

In article <199211051438.AA08726@tuna.wang.com>, RON.SANDS@OFFICE.WANG.COM ("Ron Sands") writes:
>>In response to Larry Wolfrum's question about his warped maple workbench.<
>
>
>If I read your drawing correctly, the top edge of these laminated pieces
>have swollen and you probably can look at the edge of your bench and see
>the growth rings curving upwards in the same direction as top.  In the
>correct assembly, you should see from the edge one curving up, the next
>down, the next up, etc and so on.  If as you state that the bottom could
>breathe and the top was sealed, the warp would most likely occur in the
>opposite direction than yours from the swelling of the wood fibers in
>response to humidity changes.
>

There is a better eplanation for the (quite common) warpage of boards with
one side painted and the other not (or more permeable to moisture then the
painted side).When increased humidity causes the wood to swell, ththe
painted side of the board, sealed from moisture, would not expand to the
same degree as the unpainted side. This effect restricts wood on the unpainted 
side from expanding as much as it could, if both sides were the same.  As a
result of this restriction, wood on the unpainted side undergoes compression
and deforms permanently, taking on the so called "compression set".
When the wood dries out, the unpainted side, compressed when wet to smaller
dimensions, is now smaller and more shrunk than the painted side, making the
board bowed covexly on the painted side.  I have seen this many times,
*regardless* of the orientation of growth rings.  

Similar compression is responsible for loose handles in hammers etc.

Adam
From: FABY@NMUMUS.BITNET (FABY000)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Hand tool sources?
Date: 12 Nov 92 19:38:20 GMT
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU

I have four Record planes that were purchased oner the past two years.
The bottom of each one was carefully sanded with emery paper laying over
a piece of glass and is working very well.  Probably the biggest problem
was removing the protective coating on the bare metal parts.  I used
ethyl acetate or acetone being careful to keep it from contact with the
paint.  Roger Barry
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 6 Nov 1992 08:28:09 EST
From:         ZGDSHSE <ZGDSHSE@SJUMUSIC.BITNET>
Subject:      Table Saw Stand: Additional Note

Another comment from my last correspondence on the table saw t
table.  I would use two doors (for my use and ease of building)
instead of the double set of drawers.  I would extend the base
to use all wasted space.  The kick area is sufficient so your feet
wont get all knotted up with the base.

I also used a regular door instead of the peg board covering the
sawdust collector.  I find peg board stuff rattles around a lot,
especially on a movable cabinet.  The doors also look more finished.

I us cheaper plywood than recommended.  It is fine for the shop, but
I would have been happier if I had gone with a more finished and cleaner
plywood.

Again, I am happy I built it|.

Gene Sampson
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: sunny@cbnewse.cb.att.com (s.srinivasaiyer)
Subject: WANTED:Power Tools
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories, Naperville, IL
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 19:31:03 GMT
Keywords: Tools, Power

 I am looking for good and robust power tools that any of you
 might be considering to sell.  If you are going to sell or if you
 know of a place that sells good used tools please let me
 know via e-mail.

 Thanks in advance.

 Sunny Srinivasaiyer
 sunny@att.ihlpb.com

Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-VMS-To: IN%"WOODWORK%IPFWVM.BITNET@pucc.Princeton.EDU"
MIME-version: 1.0
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 6 Nov 1992 07:54:10 -0800
From:         RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM
Subject:      Re: Help! Table Saw Top is damaged!

I've cleaned up 2 tablesaw tops with a belt sander and 100 grit paper with
good results.

You might try a pad sander first (takes off less material).

The table can't be as flat after sanding it; but, I haven't had an problems
with mine.


                        Ron Tye (all opinions my own)
From: tlp00@climb.as (Tibor Polgar)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: BYROM
Date: 12 Nov 92 23:15:04 GMT
Reply-To: tlp00@climb.as
Organization: Sun Microsystems

In the continuing saga of "Is BYROM dead or alive" well  .... it is
 
American Woodcraft and Tools  (800) 722-5447 bought the Byrom name and manufacturing
facility.   Most of the bits are made at their factory with some of the odd and large
bits made in Taiwan.
 
Retail outlets for the bits are:
 
Moon Saw and Tool (800) 447-7371  (about 30% off list)
Shopsmith stores  (415) 593-3607  (in the SF bay area)
Conestoga Wood    (800) 445-4669
Dolphin Machinery (407) 832-5554   (in Florida of course)

And the usual disclaimers..... i don't work for or have any connection with any of the 
above, just a desire to satify Bennett's curiousity.
From: gringort@wsl.dec.com (Joel Gringorten)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Splines and biscuits
Date: 2 Nov 92 22:51:47 GMT
Reply-To: gringort@wsl.dec.com (Joel Gringorten)
Organization: DEC Western Software Lab

In article <1992Nov2.224111.550@u.washington.edu>, whit@carson.u.washington.edu 
(John Whitmore) writes:
|> In article <MACRAKIS.92Oct30114309@lakatos.osf.org> macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis) writes:
|> >Biscuits are apparently stronger than splines because they expand when
|> >wetted with glue.
|> 
|> 	Splines can be made of the same birch plywood as biscuits;

Biscuits are made from compressed beech.  They certainly swell a 
whole lot more than does plywood.

|> ANY similar material will swell when wetted with water-base glue,
|> and a good spline is very similar to a biscuit.

See above.  Wood expands when it absorbs water.  It also generally
shrinks back when it dries.  Compressed wood expands when it absorbs
water but doesn't shrink back to it's compressed size even after it
dries.  

You can put the above fact to good use if you accidently put a dent
in a project that you've invested a lot of time in.  Place a few drops 
of water on the dent and it mostly goes away when dry.  

-joel
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Homebrew Dust Collector
Date: 5 Nov 92 04:36:27 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <TOML.92Nov2091443@nightowl.xrxedds.UUCP> toml@xrxedds.UUCP (Tom Love) writes:
>> >saw extension).  FWW (I believe) also has an article on using a furnace
>> >blower in a similar way - the furnace blower was mounted under a attic
>> >access hatch - it blew air through filters into the attic (in a garage
>> >workshop).  The FWW unit was much simpler, because since it was out
>> >of harm's way, it didn't have to be enclosed, and it used ordinary
>> >furnace filters.  The BHG unit had special thick filters.

>> Anyone know which issue of FWW Chris is referring to?  I'd like to do
>> something like this.

I've been thinking on this, and am no longer convinced I saw it in FWW.
Furthermore, I realize that I was mistaken.  This unit did *not*
eject the air into the attic.  The unit was extremely simple.
Mount a blower plus motor onto a piece of plywood.  Build some sort
of holder for one or more ordinary furnace filters which holds
the filter against the blower outlet.  The unit "merely" sucks
shop air and pushes it out through the filters back into the shop.
Eg: a simple, but high volume recirculating filter.

Then, suspend the rig from the ceiling.  Probably with 1x3's and a bit
of diagonal bracing.

>not sure about the FWW mag issue, but check out scott landis'
>"workshop book".  i was just thumbing thru it last night, around page
>106 or so there is a simple ambient dust sucker build out of an attic
>fan (about $45 new) and three furnace filters ($2 ea?) plus scrap
>plywood and electrical odds'n'ends.  that's what i'm planning to build
>(though the one in WOOD looked great, it would probably end up being
>almost $200 unless you have the blower laying around).

It's really only suitable for *large* shops.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
From: chris@xerox.com (Chris Heiny 73186 - SETA)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Upstate NY Sawmilling?
Date: 9 Nov 92 15:06:15 GMT
Article-I.D.: spectrum.1992Nov9.150615.2513
Reply-To: chris@eso.mc.xerox.com
Organization: Xerox Corporation, Webster NY

Saturday my neighbor revealed to me that he is sitting on some 
black walnut logs.  He did this by asking if he could borrow my 
woodsplitter to turn it into firewood.  When I got done howling, 
I asked for details.  It's cut into short lengths (3 to 6 feet) 
for easy handling, and has been air drying for at least 2 years  
The logs are 16 to 30 inches in diameter.  He says he called some 
local sawmills, but no one wanted to buy it from him.  He's agreed 
to give me a large portion of it, >if< I can get it sawn into 
lumber.  My question is this: is there anyone in the upstate NY 
(Rochester/Syracuse) area with a portable sawmill (compensation 
provided in the form of walnut lumber)?  Or does anyone know of 
a mill in the area who would cut this up for us?

						Thanks,
							Chris
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: sgs8r@kelvin.seas.Virginia.EDU (Steve Strickland, sgs8r@virginia.edu)
Subject:  Re: Straight Edge for Jointer Alignment 
Organization: Dept. of Systems Eng., U.Va.
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 04:25:47 GMT

In article <140705@lll-winken.LLNL.GOV> gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot) writes:
>In article <1d9h2qINNljq@news.aero.org>, dgolber@aero.org (Dave Golber) writes:
>> 
>[deleted]
>> This doesn't ring quite true to me, for many reasons.
>> 
>> However, here's how I have read that flat _surfaces_ are made (at a 
>> _primary_ level):  Working with _three_ castings, they are successively
>> laid against each other with machinists' dye.  The high spots are 
>> scraped off.  When all three fit within a certain precision, then 
>> all three are flat within a certain precision.
>> 
>> Not recommended as a home method.
>Either way works, and I think that they are equivalent.  With optical means
>and reversing direction, you actually have four straights (one on either
>side of the middle, two bars or castings) instead of three.  The direction
>reversal ensures that you are comparing at least three edges. The operational
>difference is that you are scraping two rather than three objects.  I expect
>the difference in effort is problematic, and in both cases you have to judge
>which are actually high spots and which are low spots that got rubbed by
>high spots.  Takes talent.

In fact the three plate method is used to hand scrape a flat reference surface,
from which straight edges are made. There's a great book called "Foundations of
Numerical Accuracy" published by one of the old-line Connecticut machine tool
firms (whose name I forget, but they make about the most accurate jig borer
around). It shows the procedure in exhaustive detail and has diagrams showing
the kinds of curvature which can be present with two surfaces even when they
meet flush at all orientations. The book also details the techniques they use
to manufacture highly accurate machines from these reference plates, and
explains why they think properly aged cast iron is the best material to make
these plates from (better than granite, as I recall). Anyway, pretty much the
last word on accuracy (Bonus question: What's the difference between accuracy
and precision?). 

As far as optical methods, I'm not sure how this would work in practice, at
least to the extreme levels of accuracy the rub/scrape method can achieve.
Seems like there might be problems aligning the light, marking the spots to be
scraped, etc. Remember, most other equipment couldn't be used, because it
wouldn't have the needed accuracy. Anyway, it does take talent. The scrapers
are generally the most skilled people in the factory.


Disclaimer: I'm not a machinist; but I play one on the net.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: problem with planer
From: <RSASMC@rohvm1.rohmhaas.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 08:27:50 EST
Organization: Rohm and Haas Company

I thought this might be of some interest to other netters, so...

I and others apparently thought the problem fichtenbaum@desire.wright.edu
was having with a Delta portable planer was due to the cutting head not
being partallel to the table. When I bought my portable, I remember the
Delta salesman showing me screws which could be adjusted for this very
purpose. But I couldn't remember where they were. A quick call to my local
Delta dealer this AM confirmed my memory. There are 4 adjustable screws. This
guy assured me there was a section in the back of the manual describing
this procedure. As I am at work I can't check my manual so I can't verify
this statement. Perhaps someone out there in net land can  lend a hand. The
salesman was helpful in that he said the procedure was easy but better
described with a manual in hand. He would be glad to walk me through it on
the phone (if I had my manual). So, perhaps the answer would be to call your
local Delta salescritter for a walk through planer adjustment land.
From: ag900@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (David Burris)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: problem with planer
Date: 12 Nov 1992 21:09:35 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: ag900@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (David Burris)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc10.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, fichtenbaum@desire.wright.edu () says:

>I have a 12" Delta portable planer.  I was planing some stock when
>I noticed that one edge was thinner than the other.  I have reset
>the knives but am still having a problem.  When I feed a narrow piece
>of stock through the planer on the right hand side the planer
>doesn't remove any material but when I feed it through on the left
>hand side it does remove material.  I also tried drawing a line with
>a pencil on a wide board and when I feed it through the planer it
>removes the line on the left but not on the right.  I have spent the
>last two hours trying to reset the knives but apparently to no avail.
>Could there be anything else wrong with the planer?  Or am I just
>having a problem setting the knives straight?  I am using the guide
>that came with the planer to try and set the knives.  Can anyone
>help?

It sounds as though the planer cutterhead is not parallel to the planer
bed. The knife setting guide only sets the knives relative to the
cutterhead. Look in the manual. There should be a procedure for
adjusting the cutterhead relative to the planer bed.

Dave

-- 
ag900@cleveland.freenet.edu
From: daniel@redwood.ppc.ubc.ca (Daniel Ouellet)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Lathe recommendations?
Date: 11 Nov 1992 17:46:21 GMT
Organization: University of B.C. Pulp & Paper Centre
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: redwood.ppc.ubc.ca

If your budget for a lathe is limited, have you thought of buying a used one ?
I check the adds regularly and see a lot of good old (and not so old) woodworking
machinery for sale at very reasonable prices. That's how I got my radial
arm saw (Dewalt 10") for 375 $CDN and it serves me very well. A pretty good
price when you consider that the cheapest Sears 10" RAS goes for about
1000 $ (maybe a bit less when on sale). Of course, you have to wait for the thing 
you want to show up in an add, but you don't seem to be in a hurry to buy. Try to
find a "Buy & Sell" newspaper (the kind that only publishes adds), they usually
have a special section for woodworking machinery.
-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Daniel Ouellet, Research Associate
Pulp and Paper Centre, University of British Columbia
2385 East Mall, Vancouver, BC, Canada V6T 1Z4
Tel:(604)822-8240   Fax:(604)822-8563   Email: daniel@ppc.ubc.ca