HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 8 Jan 1993 15:24:43 -0600
From:         Jeff <JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Plans for an Entertainment Center

On Fri, 8 Jan 1993 07:45:15 -0600 <CELLIS@BROCKVMA> said:
>On Fri, 8 Jan 1993 14:36:07 GMT Larry McGuire said:
>>Can anyone point me to a source for plans for an Entertainment Center?
>>
>I have a very good set of plans with video tape I got from Woodworking
>Unlimited with my shopsmith.  It is planned for later this year (after
>the "Norm Abrams Shaker Pencil Bed" project.  There is also a very nice one
>in the New Yankee Workshop books (Daltons, Walden, etc. bookstores), that
>looks very much like one currently on sale at Ethan Allen Furniture stores
>for $2,199.00.  Good luck..
>
 I built 4 variations of Norms E.C. over the last couple of years..
 (Larger/smaller/with and without drawers etc.) The bottom portion that is
 used for various junk i.e. headphones, tapes etc.  is not very useful, I
 would partition the area somehow or add drawers instead.  I just don't like
 that big of an area for small stuff, it can be organized better with some
 partitions or something.  People who come to the house really drool when
 they see them....especially the big one in the living room..

 Jeff Roberts JROBERTS@UTDALL
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 12 Jan 1993 11:07:13 -0800
From:         RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM
Subject:      Re TABLE SAW RUST

You can get 100% pure talcum powder from a pharmacy. It doesn't cost much and
your workshop won't smell like a nursery

                                Ron Tye (all opinions my own)
From: garry@alice.att.com (garry hodgson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: WARNING
Date: 7 Jan 93 17:08:57 GMT
Article-I.D.: alice.24570
Reply-To: garry@alice.UUCP ()
Distribution: rec
Organization: AT&T, Bell Labs

mark@network.com writes:

   So far, I've been either careful or lucky.

Me too. In fact, the more careful I am, the luckier I get...


-- 
Garry Hodgson			A slow winter day
AT&T Bell Labs			A night like forever
garry@alice.att.com		Sink like a stone
att!alice!garry			Float like a feather
From: coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM (Chip Coffin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: WARNING
Date: 4 Jan 1993 23:13:56 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Distribution: world
Reply-To: coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: surfin


I second all the comments for taking your time, and not working while
tired. 

I also have learned something valuable about biscuit jointer safety hat I did not
realize before.

NEVER Place a hand on the workpiece that is on the left side ("infeed") of the 
biscuit jointer.  

This is a case where being left handed is a bonus, because I always hold the tool
with my left hand.  This leaves my right hand free to hold the piece down. Unless
I cross my hands to do something, I'm ok.

On second thought, I should always clamp pieces down and hold the tool with two
hands.

Anyway, I'm sorry to hear about your accident - but thanks for discussing it with us.


chip
From: wthomas@oasys.dt.navy.mil (William Thomas)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Delta Radial Arm Saw Alignment
Date: 9 Jan 93 01:07:39 GMT
Reply-To: wthomas@oasys.dt.navy.mil (William Thomas)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

made the unpleasent discovery that radial arm saws don't
stay in alignment nearly as well as table saws.

I would like to know from the readers an easy way to set the
vertical aligment of the saw to 90 degrees, especially without
havingt to remove the blade guard. My problem is that there is
slopp in the setting before you lock it in place and I would like
to consistently set it at 90 degrees.
bill thomas
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jazz@jazz.b11.ingr.com (Jeff Roberts)
Subject: Re: Jointers, Which one to buy?
Reply-To: jazz@jazz.b11.ingr.com
Organization: Intergraph Corporation
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 16:29:11 GMT

In article <1993Jan11.185713.16227@news.mentorg.com>, animal@rtp-nc.mentorg.com (ANIMAL) writes:
|> Sorry for the blank post, I know I sent it correctly. Oh well..
|> 
|> I have an AMT 6" jointer that I am happy with. It has a center
|> mount fence and fairly long beds.  I have two minor gripes: 
|> 1. The included blades did not last long. (Although I was 
|> joining rock maple...)
|> 2. There is no dust pickup connection. The dust comes out a 
|> chute onto the floor.
|> It runs about $390 + $65 Motor - $50 Rebate. I've had it
|> about two years and have had no problems with it.  It looks like
|> several imports but comes with a 10 year parts warranty.

I just bought AMT's smallest jointer.  It looks a lot like the 6" Ryobi
and handles boards up to a little over 5" wide.  This one has a dust pickup
connection, but as I've only used it once so far I couldn't comment on blade
life.  For me this is a great toy because it fits well in my small garage and
I have a big pile of 6" tongue-and-groove oak I got free.  A few passes to
remove the tongues and grooves and square the edges, then I can surface plane
the boards and glue them up into bigger panels in no time.

The jointer was $189 and you get $30 of free stuff for ordering it.
[One of the things I got was a cover for the jointer - it only covers the top
half, however :-(  I also got a burnisher and a few scrapers so expect posts
from me about why I'm only getting dust :-)]

==============================================================================
J. Jeff Roberts              jazz@jazz.b11.ingr.com             (205) 730-6155
	For I am not ashamed of the gospel of Christ: for it is the 
	power of God unto salvation to every one that believeth...    Rom 1:16
==============================================================================
From: markw@hpcss01.cup.hp.com (Mark Williams)
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 22:43:10 GMT
Subject: Re: American Woodshop - new show on PBS
Organization: Hewlett Packard, Cupertino
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

Whoa..  Frank Klausz??  I didn't realize he was doing a show.  He is
one good craftsman, not a Norm.  I suspect he would make very effective 
use of both had and power tools.

As I recall he apprenticed under his father as a cabinetmaker in Europe.  
He has a cabinet shop somewhere, so he's actually working at it, not
philosophizing or making a TV series about it.  Until now..   

Should be worth watching, anyway.
From: rer@hpfcdc.fc.hp.com (Rob Robason)
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 20:48:22 GMT
Subject: Re: Need Pinewood Derby Track plans
Organization: HP Fort Collins, Co.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

kopfj> Check with your local scout office.

Yes, I already have the one in the "Cub Scout How To" book, but it's
pretty sketchy and very primitive.  I'm looking for more of the Cadillac
version.

Rob
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bmeeks@nrtpa094 (Barton Meeks x3461)
Subject: Re: WARNING (response to...)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Research Triangle Park, NC
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8]
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 03:49:10 GMT

Jeff Roberts (JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.BITNET) wrote:
>   I've found my pencil to be one of my most useful safety devices.  Using the
>   eraser end to help push small pieces through a band saw or scroll saw has
>   also saved me from at least one trip to the E.R..

But be careful of that sharp end.  My father grabbed a stick with
a jagged end when he needed a push stick in a hurry.  The table
saw kicked back, and probably 20 years latter he can still feel
a few pieces of wood left in the palm of his hand (or at least
there is scar tissue, etc. that makes him think he can feel it.)

A more serious accident my father endured was with a lathe 
while turning a laminated object.  A piece hit him around
his eye/cheekbone area.  He was wearing glasses, which were
destroyed.  He did not physically "lose" his eye, but the force
of the impact was great enough that he never regained sight
with his eye.  He now recommends a face shield.

Face shields, burgler alarms, tape back-up units, etc. are items
that are rarely purchased until after they are needed.

--
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Barton Meeks     Internet: bmeeks@bnr.ca   919-992-3461
Raleigh, NC
From: rick@thinker.thinker.com (Rick Yazwinski)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Cutting tenons on a table saw
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 93 09:15:10 EST
Organization: Thinker Toys, High Tech. Consultants

chinn@rosencrantz.osf.org (David Chinn) writes:

> In article <1993Jan5.142021.21624@cbnewsh.cb.att.com> warren@cbnewsh.cb.att.c
> >When cutting tenons (or lap joints, which is more common for me)
> >on a table saw, I discovered that it is usually easier and
> >probably safer for me at least to avoid making the cheek cut
> >altogether, and instead simply nibble away the waste after making
> >the shoulder cut.  This avoids having to support the board in an
> >awkward vertical position, avoids cutting off small waste blocks,
> 
> I built a simple tenoning jig, which is nothing more than a vertical
> surface which rides along the fence.  The workpiece is held in vertical
> position, against a stop, and the whole jig slides along the fence.
> 
> Nibbling away the waste works, but takes a lot of passes on the 
> table saw, and can take a long time.  The waste block is not
> a problem, as long as the block is cut on the free side of the
> blade (as opposed to the fence side.

I've had a question about this technique for some time now.  What do you 
do if you have to cut a tenon at the end of a long board (say 8' or longer)? 
It seems to me that this would be to unweildy to cut vertically (not to 
mention the ceiling you'd need).

        Rick...

----------------------------------------------------------------
Rick Yazwinski | If you want to know about a dog, go to the dog.
Thinker Toys   | If you want an opinion, go to other humans.
               |------------------------------------------------
                                        rick@thinker.thinker.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mtb@cray.com (Michael Brown)
Subject: Jointers, I did it!
Reply-To: mtb@cray.com
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 8 Jan 93 11:52:35 CST



I made a posting serveral weeks ago looking for information on 
jointers - thanks to all provide information.  After much deliberation 
I finally made my purchase.

I live about 2 hours away from the Minneapolis/St Paul area so after
Christmas I decided it was time to make the woodworking store
rounds and see some of the equipment first hand - it was well worth
the trip.

One shop carried Sunhill and in addition to the CT60L in the Sunhill 
catalog, had on the floor a model with a infeed table mounted fence (like 
the Reliant in Trendline or the Woodteck in Woodworkers Supply).  I believe
this is the orginal Delta/Rockwell design.  This machine was made in 
China.  Initally I had eliminated the infeed mounted fence because I 
thought there would be a lot the deflection on the unsecured end during
use, it wasn't bad and most the force is down the the tables anyway.
The machining on the infeed/outfeed tables and fence is execellent, much 
smoother that the CT60L and Jet that I looked at.  From as near as I 
determine the tables (42") are dead coplaner, the fence (35") is flat 
except for the last 6-8" where its out by about .005" on the top, and the 
fence adjustments are smooth.  Its 3/4 HP (10 amps) and has a bolt together
but very sturdy stand.  The manual (10 pages) is brief and the belt is @#!$, 
but the salesmen told me to expect that, and the cutter head guard is 
plastic - maybe I'll fashion a new one.

That was the one, so for $309 I took it home, it runs great, I'm happy!
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Ryobi planer
Date: 11 Jan 93 18:19:52 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM writes:
>I've got the equivelent plane from Delta. It works great for turning
>3/4 into 1/2 or 3/8 (and a lot of shavings). It works even better for
>cleaning up resawn boards (less shaveings more wood).
>
>I got the Delta because of it's 12" width (insted of Royobi's 10")
>
>If the 10" width isn't a problem  I think the Royobi is a better choice
>than the delta.

Care to elaborate on why you think this?  I'm real curious, as I plan on
adding a thickness planer to my collection in 93, and had planned on the
Delta.  I have some other Ryobi equipment, and have found it to be pretty
good, so I might be convinced to go with the Ryobi over the Delta, if the
reasons were compelling.

Dave
-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
"I look back with some satisfaction on what an idiot I was when I was 25,
 but when I do that, I'm assuming I'm no longer an idiot." - Andy Rooney
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: tgillesp@sloth.mlb.semi.harris.com (Tom Gillespie)
Subject: Maple table tops available (more info)
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 14:41:22 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL


Since I had such a barage of inquires from the posting on maple table tops,
I'm going to reply to them here.  By the way, I was posting this for 
someone else, so please direct any more questions to him.

They are hard maple, sealed, and made by the Dayton Electric CO of Chicago
(the tables were originally used for electronics workbenches). 
Some have a few scratches but they could be turned over and the bottom
side used (which is what I plan on doing.)
The dimensions are 2" think X 30" X 60" and are $50 each.

The quality is very good - these things were made to last.  But, alas,
quality can have its drawbacks; the tops alone weigh in at ~94 lbs.  
I haven't checked out shipping costs, but if freight was < $50, I 
still think this would be a good buy.  

The guy who is selling the table tops is Tracey.  His home phone number is 
407-383-3224.  He can give you directions to the building where he stores
the tables (in Coco Beach, Florida).  Hope this helps.

Tom
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: Cutting tenons on a table saw
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 19:52:53 GMT

warren@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (warren.a.montgomery) writes:
: When cutting tenons (or lap joints, which is more common for me)
: on a table saw, I discovered that it is usually easier and
: probably safer for me at least to avoid making the cheek cut
: altogether, and instead simply nibble away the waste after making
: the shoulder cut.  This avoids having to support the board in an
: awkward vertical position, avoids cutting off small waste blocks,
: which for me at least tend to fire back occasionally no matter how

You can avoid this by turning the cheek cut into sawdust. In other
words, make all the cuts one saw kerf wide - bingo, no scrap.

: I do it, and avoids my biggerst fear, that the board will somehow
: slip into the blade slot, since there is very little wood on the

You should be using a saw insert that was cut by the blade you are
using. There should be no gap for wood to fall into. Also, the wood
should be held in a jig that rides on the fence - check any good
woodworking book on how to make one.

: table to prevent it.  It also avoids inaccuracies due to a small
: angle on the blade or the board.  Just set up for the sholder cut

If there is a blade angle inaccuracy, then it will exist for the
face cut also. You should always verify the blade angle by making
a test cut in a piece of scrap.

: with either a thick standard blade you don't mind putting some
: wear on, or a dado blade set as flat as possible, and set the
: blade to cut just slightly below where you want it.  Make the
: shoulder cut and nibble away the waste.  Then use a sharp chisel
: to smooth and trim it for a precise fit.  This is tedious if
: have to do a lot of them, but for a few it's easy, and triming up
: with the chisel for a precise fit is very satisfying.

To do a good job, you should always do final cleanup with a chisel
anyway.

Bill
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: sheehan@pagosa.scd.ucar.edu (Tim Sheehan)
Subject: Scroll saw questions, esp. Delta
Organization: NCAR/UCAR
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 23:09:25 GMT

I was looking for a scroll saw in the $180 - $250 range and
purchased the Delta 2 speed 16 inch model. There are several minor
quality problems with it, and I am wondering if these problems are
common for this saw, and would I find similar problems with any
scroll saw in this price range. Any recommendations on other scroll
saws in this price range would be appreciated.

Problems:

1) The table insert that goes around the blade sits just a little
low and when I am sawing near the edge of a piece of wood, the edge
of the wood catches on the table where it is higher than the insert.

                   | <--blade
                   |  ______________________________
table insert --> ----|<--wood catches here    ^^^
                   |                           table
                   |

2) The hold down was not bent correctly. The solution to this was
obvious.

3) The angle of tilt guage for the table reads 2 degrees when the
table is horizontal.

Thanks for any feedback on this.


-- 
-Tim-

sheehan@ncar.ucar.edu
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Mitre Saw Stand - which to buy?
Date: 5 Jan 93 21:26:08 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

auidcc@ducvax.auburn.edu writes:
>I want to buy a stand for my Hitachi C8FB mitre saw.  I want one that the
>saw is bolted to and the stand folds up and the whole works can be wheeled 
>around, like a hand truck.  I have looked at the Rousseau (2900 HD, I 
>think).  It appears to be exactly what I want, but I would like to find
>something cheaper (it's about $275) if it would be as good.  I don't
>want to compromise on quality and will buy the Rousseau, if there is
>nothing else as good for less.  Any ideas?

Why not build one?  I just built one for my Ryobi, and while it does not
fold up (I didn't want it to), it is *exactly* what I wanted. Build your
own, and it will be exactly what *you* want!

Dave
-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
"I look back with some satisfaction on what an idiot I was when I was 25,
 but when I do that, I'm assuming I'm no longer an idiot." - Andy Rooney
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stuartf@sequent.com (Stuart Friedberg)
Subject: Re: Scrapers - want more info
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems Inc.
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 93 21:57:44 GMT

sfk@hpuerca.atl.hp.com (Steve Katz) writes:
>Does it need to be sharpened?

Yes.

>Are there tricks to this?

Use a file and a stone to make the edge(s) perfectly square and
smooth. Then take a smooth hard piece of steel (back of a chisel,
etc.) and firmly stroke the narrow edge so it flares out slightly.
The stroking is called burnishing, and the flares are burrs that
do the cutting.  The burrs should be noticeable to the finger but
not real big.  You can put burrs on both faces of a scraper, so
you can get eight separate cutting edges on a four-sided scraper.

>What angle should I hold the scraper at?

It varies.  Try 20 to 30 degrees off vertical, tilted in the
direction it's moving.  You can push or pull, as you wish.  Try
putting a slight "bow" in the middle of the scraper.  For instance,
if you're pushing, push in the middle with your thumbs while holding
the edges back slightly with your fingers.

> The scraper I purchased was only $6.50.  Is this a reasonable price?

For a decent store-bought scraper, like a Sandvik, yes.  They
can be made cheaper, but it's hard to buy a good one cheaper.

> Is there something else that is also called a scraper?

Yes.  A cabinet scraper is like a huge spokeshave with a scraper
blade.  This blade is usually prepared with the edge 45 degrees to
the face instead of square, and with a burr on one face only.
There are other kinds of scrapers mounted in bodies with handles,
but you'll probably find them only as antiques.

Also, a scratch stock is basically a handle for a scraper filed
to a particular shape.  It can cut moldings and trim where a router
can't go.

Stu Friedberg (stuartf@sequent.com)
From: bwm@hprnd.rose.hp.com (Bruce Melvin)
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 16:57:28 GMT
Subject: GRIZZLY TOOLS
Organization: HP Roseville Networks Division
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

Does anyone have any knowledge or experience with grizzly tools?  I am 
interested in their table saws.  Their smaller 10" table saw looks to me to be 
the same, except for color, as the AMT 10" table saw.  The price of the Grizzly
saw is about a $100.00 less than the AMT version.  Grizzly also imports another
10" TS that weighs 500 lbs. and is $850.
From: richard@TIS.COM (Richard Clark)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Power Switch on RAS ???
Date: 11 Jan 93 16:49:25 GMT
Reply-To: richard@TIS.COM
Organization: Trusted Information Systems



Question(s):

	Daddy (me!) got himself a little Radial Arm Saw this weekend. :)
OK, so it's not a Delta... and it's not a big one... just a little Ryobi
8 1/4 inch... Functional, but not perfect. Waddaya want for $197...?

	Anyway, after setting things up... I found the power switch and key
*all the way at the end of the arm*! Huh? What ^&%#$$#@!@#$ moron would do
such an incredibly stupid thing???? I mean c'mon... I need one hand to hold
the wood aligned in place on the table, one hand on the saw, and another
hand to turn the damn power on! Am I supposed to use my *nose* to press the
ON button? Really? What inconceiveable purpose could there be behind this
seeming maddness? Am I *really* supposed to turn the power on without having
hold of the saw? (Like HELL I would! I don't trust power tools as far as I
can spit on 'em. I want a grip on the damn thing when I turn it on!) So
anyway, Is there *really* a purpose behind this? Methinks daddy is gonna
get himself a little rocker switch, tap into the wires going to the motor,
and make himself a thumb switch... I'll leave the on/off on the arm intact.
My dad had an RAS with a thumb switch... you could get a good grip on the
beastie at the same time you turned it on...

	Also, someone posted last week about which direction they prefered
to cut: from post outward, or from the end back towards the post. I forgot
what they said and why, because I had no idea I'd be getting an RAS anytime
soon... Which direction is preferred? Starting from the post, the saw wants
to just run up over the wood and right off the end of the arm... seems to
be a bit dangerous... starting from the end of the arm felt a bit safer, but
its harder to judge the alignment of the wood relative to the blade...
Any tips/pointers...?

BTW: added about 20 sq ft to my workbench this weekend... about doubled it!
Almost looks like part of a workshop now... slowly but surely... building
yet another extension/expansion bench for to permanently mount my new RAS
this week too...

Also: Damn near got a squiblet flurbigator this weekend too... but I couldn't
firgure out which end was up...? Does the flywheel rotate in the horizontal
or vertical plane? Saw the Delta model too... nice! Also, the salesman couldn't
tell me what the little red lever near the gearbox on the induction drive
motor did... any clues here?

	Your advice is greatly appreciated... Thanks!



-----------------------Relativity Schmelativity-----------------------------
 Richard H. Clark				My opinions are my own, and
 LUNATIK - watch for me on the road...		ought to be yours, but under
 It's not my fault... I voted PEROT!		no circumstances are they
 richard@tis.com				those of my company...
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------