HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: mjohnson@stake.DaytonOH.NCR.COM (Marget Johnson)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: MALAMUTE PUPPY WANTED
Date: 17 Aug 92 20:01:35 GMT
Reply-To: mjohnson@stake.DaytonOH.NCR.COM (Marget Johnson)
Organization: Stakeholder Relations, NCR Corp in Dayton,OH

In article <1992Aug15.191630.55519@evolving.com> mmf@evolving.com (Mark
Frazier) writes:
>We decided
>on a Malamute. My wifes nesting instinct is kicking in big time (she's 2
>months pregnant) and has decided she wants the dog NOW!
>With all the expenses of a baby coming up, I'd rather not plunk out $250 for
>a puppy ............
>I saw an ad in the paper for Siberian puppies for $50. THey were pure bread,
>but not registered, which is fine with us. 
>Does anyone know where I could get a Malumute puppy w/o papers for a similar
>price?

Mark: As I'm sure you'll hear from others on the net, the purchase price of a
puppy, $50 or $250 or $750, is the least amount of money you will invest in
your puppy through its lifetime. A well-bred, sound puppy of good breed type
from sound, healthy parents sold by a responsible breeder who will stand
behind his sales contract and health guarantee is worth the investment of your
time and money. 
If you are determined to buy now at the lowest price possible, consider that a
Siberian or a Malemute will take a lot of time and attention from you and your
wife to toilet train, obedience train, socialize, and just generally make an
acceptable member of your family. Do you have the time to devote to the puppy?
Will your wife still want to spend time with the puppy as she goes through
morning sickness? This may not be the right time to bring a puppy into the
family. 
But then again, maybe it is right for you. If you are determined, don't buy a
$50 puppy from a newspaper ad. Either the breeders are in it "for the money",
which means they have spent nothing on prenatal and neonatal veterinary care;
or it was an accidental breeding of a purebred to a mutt (99% of the
accidental breedings resulting in unregistered pups), with the same level of
prenatal and neonatal care. Instead, either adopt a needy youngster from the
local humane society, or contact the Alaskan Malemute Rescue organization  to
adopt a purebred Malemute. A trained, socialized adult known to be good with
children might be just the right addition to your growing family. The Alaskan
Malemute Club of America Rescue organization is headed by Virginia DeVaney of
Cedar Crest, New Mexico. Call her at 505-281-3961.

And good luck!
******************************************
Marget Johnson
-- 

Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: jkjncs@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Subject: Re: help with retriever problem
Reply-To: jkjncs@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 15:28:15 GMT

In article <168488552.X005CB@tamvm1.tamu.edu>, X005CB@tamvm1.tamu.edu 
(Chris Barnes) writes:
>In article <1992Aug18.212606.25134@newshost.lanl.gov>
>  srlee@beta.lanl.gov (Stephen R Lee) writes:
> 
>>>  ...my description of using a shock collar and
>>>     video camera deleted to save space.....
> 
>>Is'nt this just a wee bit on the elaborate side?

I agree
>Perhaps.  But I did see it work....

Not always a good reason...

>Recall that the problem pooch didn't chew on things when she was
>home.  Kinda hard to give a command when you're not there.  For those

Wrong - re-read the post:

In article <3533@eastman.UUCP>
   garrison@kodak.com (Laurie Garrison) writes:
 
>i posted this question before, but i got no replies so i am
>trying again.  i have a three year old golden named Indy.
>this is the problem:  Indy does not destroy anything when
>i am not home.  when i *am* home, Indy seems to spend all of sher
>time looking for things to pick up and eat, like socks, underwear,
>used kleenix, shirts, remote controls, my glasses, etc.  if i don't 
>catch sher, she EATS them.  as in *gone*. she has eaten two pairs 
>of my glasses,

It sounds to me like Indy wants Laurie's attention and is very manipulative
at getting it. A friend of mine had this problem with their Brittany. To
solve the problem, they:
* took the dog to obedience class (Laurie, you're in my area, so feel free
  to e-mail me for info on local training schools); this helped in both
  controlling the dog and in maintaining the pack order (owners giving 
  commands are alpha)
* increased the correction for stealing - a good correction was to take
  the dog by the loose skin on the sides of the neck and lift the front
  of the dog off the ground, shaking her a bit, and scolding in low, 
  growly tones. Then ignore the dog for at least 5 minutes.
* uped the amount of exercise the dog gets; the obedience classes also
  helped increase the amount of attention the dog got.
* tried to be neater about leaving things lying around the house
* tried not to laugh or show any amusement when the dog 
  takes stuff she shouldn't - this is not always easy - my friend's Brittany
  liked to raid the laundry basket and would often fly around with various
  undergarments stuck to her face :+) - but, laughing will only encourage
  them.

To me, being in control of my dog means that I can always remove something
from his mouth; you should ask your obedience instructor to help you with
this and practice it often, since removing things from Indy's mouth will
also help maintain your status as leader.

Good Luck

********************************************************
* jane jackson and murphy b. lab, Am/Can CD, CGC, TDI  *
* jkjncs@ritvax.isc.rit.edu                            *
*                                                      *
* standard disclaimer applies...                       *
********************************************************

Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: king@cbnewsk.cb.att.com (joyce.l.king)
Subject: Re: LIFE magazine and Puppy Mills
Organization: AT&T
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 14:19:07 GMT
Summary: Check the place of origin

In article <BsyGpK.FAr@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu>, hoff@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu (Wildfire) writes:
> Kimberly Laird <U30993@uicvm.uic.edu> writes:
> 
> >don't buy from pet stores, please.....
> 
> This reminds me of a question....Here in Champaign, there is a petstore
> that claims it does not buy puppys from mills, and they have posted petitions
> for people to sign to stop puppy mills.  To what extent is this sort of
> thing a marketing ploy, and how much is legit?  I like to stop in and
> look, although it will be quite a while before I can buy a dog.  (I have to

The Pass Pets store at Castleton Mall (Indy) had the same thing..."We don't
buy from puppy mills" and "Sign our petition to stamp out puppy mills."
So I asked to see the places of origin of their puppies.  EVERY SINGLE
PUPPY came from Missouri, Kansas, or South Dakota.  I don't know about
South Dakota, but I know that Missouri and Kansas have always been hotbeds
of puppy mills.  I don't mean to accuse anyone on the net of living in a
backward state, but that was the situation in the past.  Humane laws were
very lax.  

Why don't they get their puppies from around here?      

I believe the puppy mills sign was simple hype.  I even told the poor little
sales associate that.  She didn't even know what a puppy mill was, didn't
care, and could see no further than her paycheck, which is probably very
small and at least partially contingent on how many puppies she sells.


-- 
                       Joyce Andrews King
From: williamsk@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com (Desperately seeking a major)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: Another breeding question -retraction
Date: 19 Aug 92 20:29:46 GMT

In article <16tvvjINNmpc@moe.ksu.ksu.edu>, terry@eece.ksu.edu (Terry Hull) writes:
> mooring@ (Linda Mooring) writes:
< extra stuff deleted>

> Well, her dubious lineage may be a problem.  When I picked out my
> puppy, it was from a litter that was so much alike you could not
> really tell them apart.  They were all *very* similar in size,
> temperament and conformation.  That shows depth of pedigree.  These
> bloodlines have been bred for generations for proper type and
> temperament.  It shows up in puppies that are correct and uniform.  
> Breeding dogs with dubious lineage is really a shot in the dark.  
> It is entirely possible that breeding this dog would result in 
> very few puppies or even none with her good characteristics.  
> 
> The second issue is the responsibility of breeding.  It takes quite
> a lot of time to learn what dog makes a good match for which bitch.  
> Two dogs that are both outstanding individuals may not produce any
> outstanding puppies.  The individual dogs and their pedigrees need
> to be carefully studied to verify that weaknesses on one side will
> be complemented by strengths on the other side in the same area.  
> 

< LOts of other good stuff deleted.
 After reading Terry's response about breeding, I retract my earlier post. 
There were many things he brought out that I hadn't considered.  WOW!  I 
have a lot to learn.  Sure glad there are people out there who are willing to 
teach.

Kim
From: tittle@ics.uci.edu (Cindy Tittle Moore)
Subject: Re: Hunting ability in Labradors
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Reply-To: tittle@ics.uci.edu (Cindy Tittle Moore)
Organization: ICS Dept., UC Irvine
Date: 20 Aug 92 16:59:56 GMT

In <1992Aug19.164726.18409@cbnewsl.cb.att.com> willett@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (david.c.willett) writes:
[in response to stuff that I wrote]

>I believe Cindy (and others who've made similar points) are contradicting
>themseleves here.  On the one hand they say:

>	...Genetics are too complex to bring out clone after clone...

>so "birdy" parents will produce "non-birdy" offspring.  Then they say that
>the non-birdy offspring should be sterilized because they would "ruin the
>breed" if allowed to reproduce.
>Don't the same laws of probability and inheritance which allow birdy parents
>to produce non-birdy offspring allow non-birdy parents to produce birdy ones?

Well, to begin with, you missed one of the things I said, which was:

>> Even in the ideal
>> situation, where only "perfect" labs were bred, you'd still have this
>> occuring.  Genetics are too complex to bring out clone after clone, no
>> matter your breeding program.  I won't even get into the intricacities
                                  ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>> of those dogs that do not display certain characteristics, but
   ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>> consistently pass them on to their offspring.
   ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Yes, it can happen.  I don't think I'm contradicting myself, though,
because it is my position that the *breeder* needs to make these
decisions.  Someone who gets a puppy from this breeder should simply
neuter the puppy (unless, of course, the puppy was purchased for
show/breeding).  It is the breeder that is aware of the pedigree and
what it may mean for a puppy.  And a competent breeder can sort out
the likely (birdy) puppies, the not-so-likely puppies, and may even
pick out the "carrier."  And of course mistakes are made, we don't
have dog genes completely mapped out.  But a good breeder can minimize
the mistakes, and that's what we need.

--Cindy
--
Cindy Tittle Moore -- Terrell's Chocolate Deduction (chocolate labrador bitch)

The rec.pets.dogs FAQ -- all eight parts -- is available via ftp to
pit-manager.mit.edu under pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/*.  There
is a mail server, email me for details.
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: bbrown@infonode.ingr.com (Bailey Brown)
Subject: Re: writing a nasty letter to breeder
Organization: Intergraph Corporation, Huntsville, AL.
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1992 17:57:36 GMT

This post makes two assumptions:

1.  The mange being talked about is demodectic mange.
2.  The mange has become generalized (all over the body).

My Shepherd had a small case of localized demodectic mange.
The vet gave me a copy of a section from a vet handbook,
and it said that all dogs have the demodectic mites, and
are they normally supressed by the dog's immune system.  Many dogs
will occasionaly have localized outbreaks of demodectic mange
and in these cases, no treatment is neccessary, though most vets
prescribe some sort of placebo cream so that the owner feels
that something is being done about the problem.  About 10% of
the localized cases develope into generalized cases, and,
unlike the localized case, the generalized case requires
toxic dips, and the generalized case indicates that the dog
has a genetic problem with the mange, and should never be bred.

So, if the dam of the doxie in question had had generalized 
demodectic mange, then the breeder should not have bred her,
and the owner of the doxie has a valid complaint.  Furthermore,
the owner of the doxie should not breed her.

------------
Bailey Brown                               "Above all else, confusion reigns."
Intergraph Corporation                                  
bbrown@casca.b11.ingr.com                              Procol Harum
From: schalene@sequent.com (Schalene Dagutis)
Subject: What to Name Our New Puppy
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems Inc.
Distribution: dfw
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 92 14:49:15 GMT

My husband and I are desparately thinking up a name for our new puppy
(to be picked up on 9/5) but aren't having much luck.

All creative types please respond:

The new puppy is a male Havanese (Cuban breed).  Havanese are small
(12-15 pounds), long-haired, non-shedding dogs.  

He is mostly white with a black spot on his back about the size of a
baseball.  One ear and area surrounding the eye is black.  One the
other side of his face, he has some black starting below his ear.

The kennel name is Kimbriel and they do not have a "theme" for this
litter.  

We have a 7 month old Havanese now.  The new dog will be our second.
(Thanks everyone for the great advice on getting them acquainted.)
His full name is Precioso's Majo Mani, or "Max" for short.  His
breeder wanted a "Spanish" theme to go with her kennel name.  Majo
mani loosely means good-looking peanut, which he gets called from time
to time, when he's being especially nutty.  Also, his coat is
champagne colored.

We want a name that sounds different from Max, but kind of goes with
it -- if you know what I mean.  

Any ideas?

schalene

Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: nancy@rbdc.wsnc.org (Nancy Humphries)
Subject: Re: Chew Man...
Organization: Red Barn Data Center Public Access Unix, Winston-Salem, NC.
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 16:55:47 GMT

jkjncs@ritvax.isc.rit.edu writes:

>In article <22769@hacgate.SCG.HAC.COM>, locke@4ccvw54.scg.hac.com 
>(Anne Locke) writes:
>>Hi!
>>
>>I was just wondering if anyone out there has purchased the "Chew Man"


I bought one for my Pembroke Corgi - who loves stuffed animals he can
carry around in his mouth. He loves it! Every once in a while he'll
get it to squeak and he gets excited and jumps/paws it.

I really like it - I also like the fact I can wash it. You wouldn't
have believed the color of a little white stuffed bear (a Xmas present)
after a few weeks of being his constant companion.

Nancy Humphries
nancy@rbdc.wsnc.org
From: spetter@ultra.com (Scott Spetter)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: A Question about Dogs: Pomeranians
Date: 20 Aug 92 07:38:22 GMT
Reply-To: spetter@ultra.com (Scott Spetter)
Organization: Ultra Network Technologies


Like all AKC recognized breeds, Poms do have a "standard", and
APC (American Pomeranian Club) members do work hard to breed 
to their standard - I strongly encourage anyone planning to
buy a Pom to contact the club, who can refer them to a good
breeder.  The APC's current president, Mary Vickers, is a
Compuserve subscriber, so you can even reach her over the
internet!  For information on the AKC/APC Pom club closest
to you, you can write to Dianne Johnson, 2901 Putty Hill Rd,
Baltimore, MD, 21234.  

This info, and much more can be found in the APC's official
magazine, POMERANIAN REVIEW.  For subscriptions, contact
Brenda K. Hutton, R102 Tudor Lane, Lansing, MI 48906 or call
(517) 485-5183.

Buying a Pom from a good kennel requires a little more effort
than buying one from a pet store in your local shopping mall,
but you will be rewarded with a healthy dog, bred by a caring
person who's goal is the breed standard, not mass production,
at a very fair price.  When you think about the fact that your
little companion will be with you for 15 years ... or even more,
spending a little time doing some initial research makes a lot
of sense.

The publisher of the Pomeranian Review, Expedition Publishing,
offers an online version of the Review, along with a BBS for
Pom owners to discuss the breed.  The phone number (modem)
is (516) 399-1928.  Baud rates supported are 300, 1200, 2400,
4800, 7200, 9600, 12,000 and 14,400. Your terminal should
be set to 8 bits, 1 stop, no parity.  It is free and available
24 hrs/7 days a week.  (This info. comes from the Review.)

My own Pom 5.5# Louisa d'Orange, is a daughter of Am-Mex Champion 
SunRay's Batman.  SunRay is located in San Diego County, 500 miles
from my home.  Folks should not hesitate to travel that far for 
the right dog - it can make a difference. 

Hope this helps,

Scott


-- 
********************************************************************************
*** Scott J. Spetter   UltraNet Technolgies: Billions Served - Every Second! ***
* 101 Daggett Drive, San Jose, CA 95134 USA               (408) 922-0100 X-143 *
********************************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: kemery@nmsu.edu (Kendal Emery)
Subject: SAR dogs
Organization: NMSU Computer Science
Distribution: rec
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 09:45:33 GMT

I got a question....

How would a person go about training a dog for SAR duty.

My present lab may be too old,  but I may consider getting
another lab to train for SAR duty.

I am presently on the inactive list for SAR in alamogordo
and think that this may be handy for getting me started again.

Any books on the subject.  any pitfalls to avoid.

Please repond via email, and post if you think the net
might like to know,  but most the time I just quickly browse
through the groups (read catch-up any newsgroups with more than
30 articles).

Thanks in advance..

Kendal
--
*******************************************************************
*******************************************************************
** kemery@dante.nmsu.edu  (Kendal Emery)                         **
**                                                               **
**      "If Jesus came back today...                             **
**         We'd try to book Him on the Oprah Winfry Show"        **
**                      Randy Stonehill..Great Big Stupid World. **
**                                                               **
*******************************************************************
*******************************************************************
Xref: sparky rec.pets.dogs:9743 news.answers:2525
From: smp@aquarius1.Berkeley.EDU (Susan M Painter)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: Scaredy cat dog
Date: 18 Aug 92 21:15:22 GMT
Reply-To: smp@aquarius1.Berkeley.EDU (Susan M Painter)

In article <2A9128C3.24375@ics.uci.edu>, tittle@ics.uci.edu (Cindy Tittle Moore) writes:
|> In <19382@drutx.ATT.COM> mlhb@mammoth.dr.att.com (Sky Warrior) writes:
|> 
|> >Both CHD and hip displaysia are hereditary and
|> >cannot be influenced by environmental factors.
|> 
|> This seems a bit strong to me.  Yes, they are hereditary diseases,
|> nothing changes that.  But the clinical symptoms can be aggravated or
|> minimized with environmental factors.  This includes keeping their
|> weight down and restraining them from doing things like jumping.  In
|> this manner, you have a dog with HD, but that is much more comfortable
|> (minimum pain) than it would be if you let it get overweight and jump
|> around and put more stress on those dysplastic joints.  So preventing
|> a dysplastic dog from going up and down the stairs may, in fact, help
|> reduce its pain.  It would, however, not remove the fact that it has
|> HD since that is hereditary.
|> 

I am bothered by some breeders who seem to believe that even though it is
hereditary, since environmental factors can minimize hip displaysia, they
don't seem to bother testing for it and aren't breeding only those dogs that
have solid hips.  I am greatly concerned with my favorite breed, Bernese
Mountain Dogs, because many breeders are not testing for solid hips.  One
person wrote in to state that their 11-month old Berner was starting
it's stud career.  At 11-MONTHS OLD!! Can they be sure the hips are solid?
OFA does not test until two years.  I was able to get my dog from a breeder
who was very concerned about healthy dogs, including hips.  My dog's mother
had three litters and there was not a bad hip in the bunch.  But I am worried
that too many breeders are not concerned with hips and it will be very
difficult to find any Berners with good hips.  Why the rush to breed an
11-month old dog?  Why not test for hips before breeding?  Am I missing
something when I believe that poor hips are not just a gamble but careful
breeding can produce healthy dogs with good hips.

Sue Painter
Minnesota
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: mcconnel@niktow.canisius.edu (Jeff Mcconnell)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: new golden puppy
Date: 16 Aug 92 23:30:42 GMT
Organization: Canisius College, Buffalo NY. 14208


	We have just adopted a new golden retriever puppy (actually
it's been two weeks already), and he's been a dream.  There are a
couple of questions that I have that most books just don't seem
to answer.  First some quick background.
	We got him from a backyard breeder.  (But he has great
ancestry on his father's side - paternal grandfather was #2 golden
for 1988).  Because of this, Barney spend most/all of his first 8
weeks outside or in a garage.  In the beginning, the tough part was
not getting him to go outside (both literally and figuratively), but
rather to get him into the house afterward.  Even now, if we spend
too much time outside, he forgets he's now an "indoor dog."  We are
also crate training and that is going well.
	Now for my questions:
1) Since he likes outside, there are times he indicates that he wants
to got out, when he really wants to play outside.  What I'm wondering
is what is a reasonable amount of time that we can expect him to "hold
it" between trips outside?  This is also important since I will have to
go back to work in two more weeks, and need to know what MY schedule
will be then.  Right now, he is 10 weeks old.

2) He has been holding himself through the night, but there doesn't
seem to be any connection between when he gets let out last and when
he wakes up in the morning.  Barney gets his last meal and water about
6:30, and is usually out twice after that.  My second question is when
can I expect him to sleep later than 6:00 am?  Is there anything that
can be done to encourage him to sleep later.  I've tried putting him to
bed after mid-night, but that seems to make him get up before 6am.

	Well, that's it for now, but even though we're fairly well read
on the subject, it's amazing how the books never seem to have the answer
that you really want :-).

Thanks in advance,
Jeff, Fred, and Barney

Dr. Jeffrey J. McConnell
*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*		Silence = Death
USMAIL:	Canisius College			 	 ____________
	C.S. Dept. Chair				 \          /
	Buffalo,NY 14208 				  \        /
	(716) 888-2434					   \      /
Internet:  mcconnel@klaatu.cs.canisius.edu		    \    /
*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*		     \  /
Never try to teach a pig how to sing.			      \/
It wastes your time and annoys the pig.		 	 Action = Life