From: lairdb@crash.cts.com
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: Articles about reloading for the first-timer, VERY LONG (~1100 lines)
Date: 28 Aug 92 15:07:53 GMT



(Esteemed Moderator: can this if you feel it's too long, but Henry's
 stuff really is pretty good, and makes up much of the post.)

[MODERATOR:  Agreed!!  Long but not completely out of line.  Thanks
for compiling.....]



Okay, it's time for me to pay some dues.  I've been lazing around
for a couple of months in getting this summary put together, but
I've seen some other people ask about reloading recently, so I
got a round tuit, and put together the following.

My original post:

% 
% Okay, color me uninformed, but at least I know where to go to ask.
% 
% No slight intended, but my mental picture of reloading is of people
% who are on a Quest for the Perfect weight/velocity/accuracy.  Sortof
% a Holy Grail of cartridges.
% 
% My concern usually doesn't go much beyond  1. Does it go somewhere
% when I hit the primer?  2. Where does it go?  (Forward == good, not
% forward == bad.)
% 
% Given that, today's question is whether or not reloading is a favorable
% choice based on cost; i.e. if you have little or no interest in reloading
% for itself, should you do it anyway to save bux?  We had a thread
% recently on used reloading gear (which I read less of than I should) but
% I'm also interested in ongoing costs.
% 
%  What do the various supplies cost?
%  How much *time* is involved?  How long does it take you to make n rounds?
%   (With what equipment?)
%  What hassles are involved?
%  What questions haven't I asked, that I should have?
% 
% 

As you can see, my interest was more toward the "practical" aspects :-) of
reloading, rather than How To Exercise Your Chronograph, and I received
many replies, of both flavors.

I genuinely did go through and edit a lot of these, and I tossed out quite
a few that had duplicated information or came in lower on the facts-and-
figures scale, but most of those that remain are pretty flavorful.  
Special mention goes to Henry Schaffer's two contributions (the only
ones I left the author's name on) as particularly interesting and useful
to the intimidated beginner.  These make up more than three quarters of 
the post, and deserve the space.  Anybody who got bumped, please don't 
take it personally.

My own short-form summary:  

 Cost-wise, the figures come in from people at anywhere from 7 to 13
 cents/round for 9mm FMJ (my "baseline" round.)  At 7 cents, that's a
 decent savings, but not earthshaking, at 13 cents, that's *more* than
 I pay for reloads.  
 
 Most everybody who responded was enthusiastic about the process
 (apparently I'm the laziest one here. I've long known I'm the worst
 shot, but I'm the laziest too?  Thanks, guys.  Seriously though, it
 doesn't sound that bad.  Must pay a reasonable amount of attention,
 but not all that much work involved.)  
 
 Absolute must for anyone interested: call Dillon at 800 421 7632 and
 get a copy of their catalog/newspaper "The Blue Press"  (I don't have
 a POTS number handy for international readers, write if you need it
 and I'll get it, sorry.)  
 
 Be safe.  Start slow.  Understand what's going on.  Wear eye
 protection (they fix fingers and such, they don't fix eyes.)  Wear
 gloves (lead poisoning *is* ugly, folks, you're already at higher
 risk just from going to the range, don't make it worse.)
 
 One of the most interesting things to turn up was the variation in
 prices across the U.S., though, with reports of reloaded 9mm all the
 way up to $12 (yes, twelve) for a box of 50 FMJ.  I suspect some of
 that might be bad shopping, but prices do seem to be generally higher
 than I pay here ($6 to $6.50 per 50 of 9mm FMJ, in 1000 round lots. 
 Note to anyone thinking "Gee, that's a lot of rounds": think about
 it, even if that lasts you a year, so what?  You're saving a lot by
 buying in that quantity, and it's not like fruit, it doesn't wilt in
 a week.  Personally, that's about two or three months, plus some
 full-house factory to keep in shape.)


My own decision?  I'll probably do it, but it's not all that clear cut.
Mostly because I'm unusually short of time, and get good prices locally,
and don't shoot all that much, comparatively speaking.

(If anybody's got an SDB they want to sell, let me know.  A used price
on the press would turn the corner right there.)



Separate articles are broken with a /***/ and my own (very few) comments
are margined with a %.

/****************************************************************/

It depends.  Primers are roughly a penny a piece.  Powder cost varies
quite a bit depending on what you're shooting.  (For example, 4.5 gr
of unique/9mm is much cheaper than 30 gr of some rifle powder; pistol
powders run about $15 for 7000 grains while rifle powders are a bit
more.)  Brass for reloading might be nearly free (.38 special target
loads) or quite expensive (hot 8mm mauser through a semi-auto, so you
both lose them and tear them up).  Bullets can range from 3 cents each
(lead 9mm/.38) to lots more (.50 BMG bullets are $1, but even .45 ACP
TMJ is 6.5 cents a pop).

A dillon square deal runs $200 and can easily do 2-400 rounds/hour.
(The 550b is more expensive, I suspect it is slower, but it will let
you reload rifle.)  A handpress set up can be had for under $100, but
the production rate drops significantly, but decap and size can be
done while you're not paying much attention.  (say 100 rounds/hour
max).

Then there's the variation in the cost of alternatives.  There's no
"good" reason for 9mm "professional" reloads to cost significantly
more than .38 special reloads, but they do.  The difference in price
between 9mm reloads and .45 reloads doesn't seem justified by
differences in the cost of materials either. .44 magnum/special
reloads are far more expensive than the cost of supplies would
suggest.  The reason for these differences is competition and volume.
In other words, everyone and his brother sells tons of .38 special
reloads so they sell for fairly close to cost of production, but no
one does much volume in .454 casull reloads, and most don't even
bother, so they sell for a significant premium over cost.

It probably doesn't make economic sense to reload .38 special, unless
you want a load that just isn't available.  It makes a lot of sense
for .40 S&W and other uncommon cartridges.  In other cases, you're
going to have to do a more detailed analysis using the above.

You won't save money; you'll just shoot more.

/****************************************************************/

Well, it does save money, but the investment is non-trivial.  My
Dillon Square Deal B (SDB) setup for 9mm is about $300 complete
with a Midway tumbler, Dillon powder scale, etc.

         People told me horror stories about what would happen if
I screwed up my car brakes 'doing it myself'.  As with anything in
this world, the more you understand/learn/do something, the less
mystical/dangerous it becomes.  Reloading has the potential for
overmeasuring, but 9mm is fairly obvious.  The case will visibly
overflow on a double charge;  .38 Special may not - this would be
more dangerous.

It's cheaper, but if you factor EVERYTHING (like I do), it's not
as cheap as you think. Some folks ignore incidentals such as tumbling
media supplies and brass cases.  True, those costs are small, but
not THAT small.  On a round by round basis, I can reload lead cartridges
for about $5.50/100 and jacketed cartridges at about $8.00/100.  This
compares to $16.00/100 (lead) and $20.00/100 (jacketed) with commercial
reloads.  Some people compute a smaller number than mine, but I'm realistic
and include all the incidentals.  I can easily reload 200 rnds/hour and
if really efficient, about 350 rnds/hour.

In hard numbers, I have to reload ~6000 rnds to break even, not including 
your time.  However, consider this:

	* If you load hollowpoint or other more expensive bullets, the
	  cost savings is significant.

	* You can load light target loads, saving considerable powder
	  and gun wear.

	* You can load 9mm SWC (semi-wadcutters) - an uncommon loading
	  for 9mm, but cuts nice holes for target shooting.

	* You can load hipower loads for water bottles (via the Marlin
	  9mm Camp Carbine that I have)

The flexibility of loading doesn't lend itself to having a price tag on
it - that's how I view the other benefits of reloading.


Here's a recommendation for a reloading press that I sent to someone else.
Note the price difference for the SDB vs. 550B:

Unfortunately, Dillon just raised their prices ~15%.  However, here's
a quick estimate of costs:

	1. Dillon 550B without dies ~$273
	2. Dillon dies, one caliber ~$ 40
	3. extra tool head and
           powder measure           ~$ 99
	4. powder scale             ~$ 40
	5. calipers		    ~$ 30
        6. tumbler (Midway)         ~$ 65
	7. tumbling media           ~$ 10
	8. electric case trimmer    ~$150

Overall, you can get away with only #1, 2, 4-7 which comes
to around $453 - ouch!  No wonder I got the Dillon SDB - saves
about $120.

If you insist on rifle loading, add #8 unless you want to do
it by hand.

As I may have mentioned before, my calculator says I gotta load
~6000 rnds of 9mm to break even.  A 550B will require more.  You
may want to estimate #rnds/year that you shoot and see if it's
worth your while.  

/****************************************************************/

%
%
%  The following HUGE but very interesting essay is from Henry
%   Schaffer; I've left his name in because he seems to have
%   written this for publication, and because he deserves the
%   recognition for such a magnum opus.  (But it needs some 
%   cost figures, Henry!)
%
%

  There are these people (more often for rifle cartridges) but there
are also many people who simply want to shoot more than they otherwise
could afford.

  It depends on how much you shoot and what the cost is of buying
ammo.  If you don't shoot much, then reloading probably doesn't pay.
If you shoot something for which inexpensive reloaded ammo is
available then you have to evaluate it more closely.

  I'm enclosing a copy of my essay - which may tell you more about some
things than you wanted to hear.  How fast depends *very* much on what
equipment you have - and the cost of a progressive reloader can't be
justified unless you load a fairly large amount.

My Adventures in Reloading

[Written a year after I started, and updated considerably since then.]

  Having become interested in reloading, and over the past year
having started and gained some experience, I thought that I would 
share my experiences and ideas with the list.  Perhaps someone 
will gain from this, and perhaps someone with more knowledge 
will set me straight(er) on something.  I'm going to emphasize 
the .38 Special load - as that is the only one I've been doing.
(I would also like to thank the people on the net who have 
shared their ideas with me.  I have incorporated many of their 
comments in revising my original story.  So all this was done a 
while ago.  Since then I've also reloaded the .357 Magnum, using 
the same dies and equipment and loaded for a couple of other 
calibers by buying new dies and using the rest of what I already 
had.  Also I've reloaded for the rifle, and have found that most 
of the equipment and experience carry over.  The percentage savings 
is often greater when reloading for the rifle.)

  Before we get started, it is worth discussing - Why Reload?
Most of the information on reloading shows the savings by
comparing your costs vs. the retail price of a box of name brand 
new ammo.  This is ridiculous!  If you have the money to reload,
you have the money to buy a case at a time - and are probably
willing to buy reloads.  One reference I have compares the price 
of home reloads (for .357 Magnum) vs. a retail price of over 
$20/box.  The last case of .38 Special wadcutter reloads I 
purchased (i.e., 1,000 rounds) cost me $75 plus trading in 1,000 
empties.  So my bought ammo cost me $3.75/box net of brass.  I 
buy cast lead bullets, and then can reload a box for $2.75-$3.00 
in supplies.  (The price of both bought ammo and supplies has 
gone up since then, but the relationship between the two still is 
roughly the same.)  There is not enough margin there to pay for 
my equipment and time.  Casting lead bullets can save more money, 
especially if you can scrounge wheel weights or other sources of 
lead - but it takes even more time and equipment so I'm going to 
ignore this aspect of reloading.  The economics of reloading 
improve somewhat if you reload more than one caliber, and 
especially for rifle reloading.  The savings can be great when you 
want match grade rifle ammo which is not hard to do by handloading,
but which is quite expensive.  Also, each person has to decide how
hard they are willing to work to save what amount of money.  For
many people, even a small savings is worth the effort to reload, and
if they are shooting a less popular caliber than the .38 Special the
cost advantage of reloading will be further increased because of the
higher price or unavailability of commercial reloads.

  However, not everything I want to shoot is available, and
even if it was, I may not want to buy in case quantities.
(If you shoot a caliber for which reloads aren't available 
then you must compare with new prices - in case lots.)  In 
particular, I went looking for suitable ammunition to use
in a speedloader, because I wanted to practice for IPSC 
competition.  (Why anyone would want to shoot IPSC with a
.38 Special revolver is a topic I'll leave for a later day!)
I couldn't find lead round nose (LRN) .38 Special ammo 
anywhere in town.  There wasn't any jacketed round nose
available either - semiwadcutter was available, but it
doesn't slip into the cylinder as nicely.  I could have
ordered RN quite easily, but then I would be paying
considerably more than I cared to pay - that would be up in 
the $15 - $25/box range.  But even if I ordered that, I would 
have to take what is manufactured, and I also was wondering 
about somewhat heavier bullets (say in the 160-180 gr range) 
which can be reloaded but are essentially unavailable in 
factory ammo.  Also the thought of experimenting with
different loads for accuracy and to fit my style and preferences
was appealing.  (Silhouette shooters also often want heavier
bullets than are generally available in factory ammo.)

  All together, there was enough to get me to want to try -
especially if it wasn't too expensive to fiddle around a
bit.  (That's where the Lee Reloader press offer attracted
me - but that's getting ahead of the story.)  So given that
you want to try - here's what I recommend.

  First - read up on reloading.  Lyman's Reloading Handbook is
a good first reference.  It contains history, theory, how-to-do-it,
and a large reference section giving suggested loads and data
on quite an array of rifle and handgun calibers (with outline
drawings and dimensions of cartridges.)  It is not very expensive,
and it is a useful reference even if you are not going to reload.
RCBS has a less expensive brochure which is worth reading but
it is much smaller.  The Sierra handbooks are excellent, but
more advanced.  Most of the powder companies give free small
handbooks which mostly have loading data - fine - but not much
discussion and so not very good for beginners.  The Hornady
manual is very good, and well suited for beginners, with the Speer
perhaps being a bit more advanced.  The Nosler is oriented
towards hunting.

  There also are books which have much more discussion, lots of
photos, etc.  I particularly enjoyed The ABC's of Reloading by
Dean Grennell, 4th ed. (DBI Books).  Reading that would be worthwhile,
and I strongly recommend it for a beginner.  I especially like the 
author's emphasis on safety and practicality.  The Hornady reloading
manuals (4th ed - a two volume set) also has an excellent section,
with very good diagrams, on what happens when firing a round and
how that relates to reloading.)

  SAFETY NOTE - This can't be over emphasized!  Be careful, and
set up everything, including your routines, so that the chances
of an accident are minimized.  Wear safety glasses, don't have 
distractions such as a TV around, don't eat or smoke when
reloading, ...

  It wouldn't hurt to find a local gunshop which carries
reloading equipment and supplies, and spend a little time
looking around, seeing what they carry, and perhaps go ahead
and buy some books and manuals.  See if you can identify
someone there who is technically knowledgeable, and maybe
even buy some supplies at this time.  I like to buy from
local stores, but I also like to pay low prices, and these
two may conflict.  Still, you can buy many of the items 
locally and so support your local people.  But note that 
there are substantial savings available through mail order.  
(At the very least, get catalogs from: Gander Mountain, Midway, 
Wiley Outdoor, Mid-South Shooters Supply, and Natchez.  Also 
get catalogs from the major manufacturers of reloading 
equipment, and pay the $1 - $2 charge if they have one.  
Certainly include Hornady, Lee, Lyman, Omark/RCBS and Dillon.)

  Ok, now that you feel comfortable with what is involved, and 
are confident that you want to get started - let's go.

  Buy a reloading press and a set of dies.  I strongly 
suggest starting with one caliber preferably a straight
sided pistol caliber (such as the .38 Special :-) so that
you can get a carbide resizing die and skip the case lube
and clean-off-lube steps.  (These steps are really not so
much effort and the .38 Special has other disadvantages
discussed below.  Basically, you'll want to start with
whatever it is that you shoot.)  I strongly suggest a simple,
single-die-at-a-time press.  It is cheap, it lets you
do everything (just not as fast) and right now you
are trying to learn everything about reloading, rather
than to turn out bulk ammo.  The simple press lets you
concentrate on technique and the meaning of what you are
doing, rather than on complicated machinery.  I even
suggest that you get a separate priming thing (tool), rather
than priming with the press - to further uncomplicate things.
(I keep talking with beginners who are attracted to the
progressive presses because of the allure of turning out large 
volumes of ammo quickly.  I try hard to discourage them from 
starting that way.  Mainly because I want them to learn how 
to do it well and safely.  Also because of the possible 
discouragement factors of price and complication - they might 
never get started if they have to buy this relatively expensive 
thing.  Even if they spend the money then they have to get it 
working just right - before they have experience - and so might 
get discouraged before everything gets going satisfactorily.  On 
the other hand maybe they might get bored working more slowly.)

  I've talked with many reloaders who have started with a
progressive press and who are very satisfied.  One common element
is that they all did it slowly and carefully at first.  They read
up on what they needed to do, and they carefully ran cases through
until they understood what was going on and how to reload safely.
A progressive press can also have some benefits, such as it being
much harder to double charge a case because a case will only stay in
the charging station for one handle cycle.  So I'm not saying that it 
is wrong to start this way, just that it is simpler and less expensive 
to start with a single stage press.

  The simple presses (called single stage) presses come in
two varieties - hand held and bench mount.  The hand held type
is the ultimate in small, portable and easily stored, but it 
is less convenient to use.  The bench mounted type is 
much easier to use, since it is mounted to the bench and has
more leverage and can be operated with one hand, with the other
one free to move components, etc.  You can actually bolt it to
a reloading bench, if you have a dedicated area.  But it works
just as well, and is more convenient to bolt it to a piece of 
wood, and then clamp the wood to your workbench with C-clamps
when you want to use it.  I used a piece of 1 x 4 long enough to
have the press just in front of my bench, and the end of the
board goes to the back edge of the bench.  I use one clamp at
the rear, and one at the front edge.  It takes me less than a 
minute to mount or remove and it is very solid during operation.
My Lee Reloader press is mounted this way, with a hardwood 1x4,
and I can do everything, including full length resizing of
.30-'06 cases with it.  So far I've been able to reload 4 handgun
calibers and 3 rifle calibers with this equipment, so I don't
feel limited by this simple setup.

  (It has been pointed out to me that the .38 Special case 
is very large compared to the typical amount of powder loaded 
- and this makes it dangerous compared to the usual rifle case 
in which a normal load fills it up or nearly so.  With the .38 
Special it is possible to double charge or worse - which may 
lead to blowing up the gun and serious injury.  Therefore it 
is *very* important to be careful when reloading.  I did 
start with the .38 Special so that is what I'm discussing.)

  (There are also dangers in reloading for the rifle.  The 
length of the cartridge and the neck thickness take on more 
importance, and inattention can lead to over-pressure
conditions.  There is no simple way to be safe.  You have
to learn about what you are doing, and then pay attention
all of the time.)

  I bought the Lee Reloader Press, in a bundled deal which made 
it very inexpensive when also buying a set of dies - I got the 
carbide dies - and a priming tool - I got the Auto-Prime with a 
shell holder.  Since the die set includes a powder scoop and a 
shell holder, it is possible to get started with nothing but this 
purchase!   (Well, I also bought a small powder funnel, a reloading 
tray, and a primer pocket cleaner.  Also one needs supplies - 
further discussed below.)  There are many presses which can be 
bought in some kind of bundled deal or "kit" with a set of dies, 
etc.  Sometimes this is a very good buy, so look over prices and 
equipment carefully.  Note that a vibrator/tumbler for cleaning 
cases is not an essential item, although it is nice, and you will 
probably buy (or make) one if you continue in reloading.  (Also there 
are many very high quality brands of equipment, and I don't feel that 
Lee is any better.  It may even not be as good, but it was the best 
buy I could find, and it has worked very well.)

The steps in reloading are (briefly):  (Note this is with a carbide
resizing die which doesn't need case lubricant and with a second
die which allows dumping powder through it.)  I wear eye protection
for the entire process and also keep the case pointing away from
my head when I'm priming it.

 1. Wipe off the old cases with a rag.  (Not necessary if you've
      cleaned them some other way.)
 2. Resize/deprime.  (first die)
 2a. (optional) Clean out primer pocket with a cleaner brush or scraper.
 3. Prime with Auto-Prime.
 4. Expand/flare with second die, and also
 5. Dump in scoop of powder through this die.  (The scoop is
     on the conservative side regarding the charge, and so a
     scale/balance to weigh the charge is not necessary.)
 6. Place bullet on top of case and seat and crimp (third die.)
 7. Voila!

  Since this is a single die press, all the cases have to be run
first through the first die, then the second step is done, etc.
This is one reason why reloading trays/blocks (or pieces of wood with 
a bunch of holes drilled in them) are so nice.  You have to change 
dies, and do a little readjustment at each change - but so what - 
you are getting great experience and practice each time you do that!
(Also, even if you later buy a fancier press, there are lots of
things which a single stage press can be used for - such as
bullet sizing/lubricating, depriming and bullet extraction.  So
it won't be wasted later on.)  Depending on the die set there
may be a slightly different sequence of steps, but the same 
operations will still be done.  The Lee Speed Die Set costs only
about 60% of the usual 3-die carbide set, and actually is 
slightly easier/faster to use in a single station press.  There
is one body part, and then the other attachments just are put
on and off with relatively little adjustment.  However it can't
be used conveniently in a multi-station press (turret or progressive) 
because there is only one body.  Still, it might be worth starting 
with this, for a handgun, to minimize the initial cost and fuss.

  I very strongly urge using two loading trays, and keeping them on
opposite sides of the press.  Then you can transfer each round 
systematically as you work on it.  This helps assure that you 
don't skip andy and don't double charge any.  Without this help
you are very likely to lose track, especially if ever interupted,
and to end up making a dangerous mistake.

  Now, what supplies should one purchase?  Keep it simple!  Don't
buy anything exotic - and keep away from peoples' favorite oddball 
loads!  (I.e., shotgun powder in pistol, weird weights or two bullets 
in one case, etc.)  Not that there is anything wrong with these 
"favorites" but when you are gaining experience you should keep in 
the mainstream.  Your load should be chosen from a manual (*not* 
from someone's memory!) and preferably should be checked with 
another manual or two and be in the moderate power range.  In 
understanding what is "mainstream", a knowledgeable person at the 
gunshop can be a big help.  Buy one box of brass (whatever they 
carry new is fine) preferably unprimed, a single box of primers 
(the smallest box which usually is 100 primers) and a box of 
bullets (100 to a box) and *one pound* of powder.  (I don't care how 
much you might save by buying an 8 pound keg - just buy one pound.)  

  Why new brass? - so you have one thing less to worry about.
Unprimed so you get the experience of priming.  One box of bullets 
- you're just getting started and gaining experience, not trying to 
save money by buying in bulk.  One pound of powder because it is 
*safer*.  (Think safe and play safe - don't do anything to cut 
corners on safety - don't smoke around the reloading bench ...)  
With new brass, a chamfering tool (handheld - try not to pay over 
$5) is not a bad idea, but is not necessary.  (Although if the 
curved cuts on your fingertips bother you, you will prefer to 
lightly chamfer your new cases inside and outside.)

  I got a box of Winchester brass, a box of CCI 500 (standard small
pistol) primers, a box of Hornady 158 gr. LRN, and a pound of 
Bullseye.  I fiddled with the equipment, fussed around and loaded up 
a whole box (50) of ammo.  Went out to the range and every round went 
bang - very satisfactory.  But the loads felt kind of light, sort of 
closer to target wadcutter loads than to factory loads.  Reloading 
and shooting the same cases confirmed the feeling.  (I should note 
that the scoop which came with the dies was too large for Bullseye - 
so I bought the inexpensive set of Lee Powder scoops and used a smaller 
one.) What to do to increase the power?  Well, I was an expert by now 
:-), and looking for new horizons to conquer.  The clear next step was 
to be able to handle heavier loads - that meant an adjustable powder 
measure and then a balance to be able to check for accuracy and 
consistency.  

  (It has been pointed out to me that Bullseye is one of the
most "energetic" powders used.  I.e., it takes the smallest
volume to get a given amount of energy.  That means that a
very small amount is used, and so it will be harder to
notice a double charge if you slip up and do that.  Even if
you peer at the cases in the loading tray from the top after
charging with powder it is not easy to see the small amount
extra of this powder.  However Bullseye is very popular, and
this is what I have been using.  It does make it even more
important to be very systematic and avoid overcharging any
of the rounds.  With a loading tray, the brass is held upright
and lined up - this makes it much easier to look in and make
sure that powder is in every case and gives you the best chance
of seeing a double charge, if one is present.)

  It is also important to make sure that every case is charged
with powder.  The energy in the primer alone is enough to drive
the bullet into the barrel, but not enough to have it leave the
barrel.  (This is referred to as a "squib load".) If you fire one 
of these and don't notice the lighter than usual recoil and 
report, and then fire a fully loaded round - the second bullet 
will violently encounter the first one, and the result can be a 
bulged barrel or worse.  Sometimes much worse, with injury as 
well as equipment damage resulting.)  However, with the brass in 
the loading tray after powder charging, when looking in from the
top it is *very* easy to see an uncharged case.

  Since I only used Bullseye at the start I didn't have to worry
about the possibility of mixing powders or of confusing powders.
Such errors can easily lead to disaster.  With more than one
powder around, one should be very careful to avoid these
errors.  Now that I use several different powders, I take such
simple precautions as only taking out one container at a time.

  A less obvious danger, but one which is easy to avoid, is lead 
poisoning.  No kidding, the amount of lead you get on your hands 
when working with lead bullets and with fired casings is dangerous 
if it gets into your body.  Don't touch food or smoke until you have 
scrubbed your hands clean!  Assume that all of your reloading gear 
has lead on it, and then you'll be extra careful.

  Lead poisoning is slow and insidious.  The danger of working
with primers is more dramatic and sudden.  Primers can detonate
when crushed, and so it is important to avoid this, particularly
when priming cases.  If a primer is going in "hard", stop and
check - don't just push harder.  Keep primers in their original
boxes until use - these boxes are designed to protect the primers
from impact.  Don't keep primers in a glass jar - an explosion
would produce particularly unpleasant effects.  Most of the 
reloading guides discuss the need to keep primers clean and dry, 
and particularly to avoid getting oil on them - all of this is to 
ensure that they go off when needed.  The safety issue is to make 
sure that they don't go off any other time, and to limit the
dangerous effects if a primer does go off inadvertantly.

  I got the Lee Auto-Disk Powder Measure (the Deluxe model,
I was on a roll) and a Hornady balance (hm, I bought mail order,
but asked the order taker if I could talk to someone who knew
a lot about reloading, and I asked that person about quality
of different brands of balances - and got steered to the
Hornady vs. the Lee.  I've been very happy with it.  Whatever
brand you buy, make sure that you get one with magnetic damping.
This is an important feature which makes the balance much easier
to use because it makes it settle to a stop much faster without
harming accuracy.)  A set of balance check weights is be a good
idea, or at least some known weight objects (such as a small
jacketed bullet) to check for gross problems in operation of the
balance.  The Disk Powder measure screws into the Lee die in 
place of the funnel, and is actuated by the press when expanding 
the case.  Works like a charm, and for a while I also weighed 
every charge - then I used to weigh every tenth charge - now I 
weigh every twenty-fifth charge - I've never found one as much 
as 0.1 gr off the usual.  (The charge runs consistently 0.05 gr 
less than the chart says it should be - but it is very consistent.)
Now my loads run almost as hot as factory ammo, which is where I 
want them.  There are digital electronic scales which are much faster 
and easier to use, but they are considerably more expensive than the 
traditional beam balance.  Most people don't weigh stuff enough to 
make it important to have the extra speed and a beginner certainly 
can save the money.

  One more tool is very handy - a dial micrometer caliper - to check 
the overall lengths (OAL) of stuff, and see if and when cases 
need to be trimmed, and lots of other uses.  I use my stainless
steel machinist's caliper, but an inexpensive plastic one would
work well enough.  A vernier caliper could be bought for a few 
dollars, but is a pain to use compared to a dial caliper.  A 
reasonable stainless steel dial caliper will last for many 
decades, and have many uses, and so should be considered to be an
investment.  Since I'm firing mild loads, I've not yet had to do any 
case trimming.  One reason why checking length is important is that 
the crimping die's action will vary if case length varies.  Variable 
crimping hurts accuracy, and excessive crimping can lead to over-
pressure conditions.  (Note that a roll crimp is fine for revolvers 
and single shot pistols.  Semi-automatics commonly head space on the 
mouth of the case, and so can't work with a rolled-in crimp.  A 
taper crimp is used in those cases, and taper crimp dies are 
available from several die manufacturers.)

  Another neat gadget is a loaded cartridge check gauge (available
for such sources as Wilson, Midway, Dillon, etc.)  This is usually a
steel cylinder (perhaps the size of a 35 mm film can for the handgun
cartridge sizes) with a hole bored in the center, with it sized just
so that a properly sized cartridge will be able to fit in, and not 
poke through the far end.  So it checks all the critical dimensions of
the cartridge just by putting in a cartridge.  This is not a necessary
gadget, but it can be very helpful, especially when you are first
getting started.

  I couldn't stop there - since I was reloading them over and
over, the cases were getting just a bit sooty and tarnished,
an cleaning them with a rag wan't enough - so I needed a 
tumbler/cleaner.  It makes the cases so nice and bright! I also 
bought some more cases, primers and bullets (in quantity this 
time, and got a reasonably nice price break.  Price breaks 
usually start when you reach quantities of 500 or 1000.)  I've 
finished my first pound of Bullseye, but it took quite a while to
accomplish that.  What I'm doing has added up to a bit more money 
by now than my start - but I didn't spend the extra until I was 
sure that I wanted to go on to the extra steps.

  It has turned out to be a nice way to spend an occasional
evening.  It hasn't been too expensive, and I've had no problems.
Note that I've been *very* careful - check everything twice.  I'm 
never in a rush to get out more rounds, but rather very systematic 
and if in doubt I do it again. (Really the only very dangerous 
part is possibly double charging a case.  It is hard to spot by 
the usual recommended technique of shining a light down the cases 
and looking at the powder levels.  So I do that anyway, but first 
I am very careful to move cases from the uncharged tray to the 
charged tray as I charge them, and to only work the lever once, ...
Also, I turn over each case before charging it - so I check the 
primer and also verify that it is empty.

  All in all, it has been fun - I've learned a lot about the
technology, and I can make loads of the sort I want.  I still 
shoot more bought ammo than I reload - but I went into this for 
fun not to replace the store.  But even this way, if I had bought 
all the LRN ammo that I've loaded, it would have cost more than 
I've paid for all the supplies and equipment I've bought.  So I 
can argue that it also has saved me money compared to what I would 
have had to spend to get this type of ammo.  For rifle shooting 
I've worked out loads which have given me match accuracy (< 1/2 MOA!) 
and not only has it been much less expensive than factory match ammo, 
it has been *very* satisfying.

  Where next?  If I buy another press, I think I want one with a 
turret disk so I can leave all my dies mounted and not have to do 
any readjustment.  I don't think I want a progressive press, 
because there is more which can go wrong.  I could change my mind 
if I ever wanted to reload larger quantities, but my interest is 
still going in different directions.  I'm still interested in 
accuracy, and possibly also in heavier bullets.  If I experiment in
these areas, I still will load relatively small quantities.  I've 
bought a few other inexpensive tools, a case trimmer, a few brushes, 
reloading trays and storage boxes, some more manuals, ... .  I've 
tried some other powders, - lots of interesting projects under way.  
(Safety note - to avoid the danger of mixing (or mixing up) powders, 
only take out one container at a time.  Then it is clear what powder 
you are using and you won't ever return powder to the wrong can.)

  I bought dies and supplies to load ammo for my rifle (.308 Win. 
bolt action) which has turned out to be a worthwhile effort.  Other 
than the set of dies, the only other equipment needed was a new guide 
for the case trimmer.  (It was good to get to use it - the .38 Spl 
cases don't seem to ever need trimming.  I have a group of cases I've 
reloaded 22 times and they are still too short to touch the trimmer
cutter.)  I use the very inexpensive Lee Case trimmer which you rotate 
with your hands.  It is reasonably fast and works very well, but is 
tiring to use if a lot of trimming is necessary.  My rifle die set is 
the Lee Collet Die set - this is one of the types of dies sets which does 
neck sizing - rather than full length resizing.  Neck sizing is much 
easier to do, is easier on the brass, and generally provides superior 
accuracy because it doesn't affect the body of the cartridge which has 
taken on the shape (and headspace) of the particular rifle in which it 
has been fired.  So this works if the cartridges are being reloaded for the 
same bolt action rifle in which they were fired.  Neck sizing is not 
recommended for semi-automatics because they need a bit more clearance 
between the cartridge and chamber walls to function easily.

  I picked a powder which was recommended by a knowledgeable 
salesman at a local shop (IMR 4895) and the bullet he recommended 
(Sierra 168 grain HPBT Matchking) and tried a few charge weights.  I 
used once fired Federal brass from the American Eagle ammo I had fired, 
and CCI Standard Large Rifle primers.  With the original ammo, I was
getting about 3" groups (100 yards, sandbag on bench.)  My first (light)
reload gave me 2" groups.  A one grain increase in the charge reduced
the groups to under 1", and one more grain gave me a 6 shot group
of 0.7".  (One grain can make a big difference in accuracy!)  My best
5 shot group is now 0.4", and I consistently average well under 1".
Note the change from mediocre groups to excellent groups - that
alone made the whole reloading exercise worth it for me.  Also, this
is where there are reasonably big savings from reloading.  I don't
shoot the rifle enough to want to buy match grade ammo by the case,
so the savings per round are reasonably large, and there was very
little additional investment in equipment needed.  I also have done 
some reloading for the .222 Remington.  Again, only an additional
die set and a cutter guide was needed.  (Oh well, I might as well 
admit that there are always a few extra gadgets which do something
nice or necessary.  Things like extra primer pocket cleaners or 
reamers, various brushes, etc.  But they aren't big items, and you 
don't really need to buy them, especially not at first.)  I guess
I shouldn't mention the match grade powder measure that I just got -
but I'm sure that I can always find new things worth buying!

  Ok - that's my story.  It would be nice to hear about others' 
ideas and experiences.  (It was help from others which got me 
going and helped me continue - so let's all keep this hobby going.)


%
%
% Also from Henry, under separate cover....
%
%


  Here's some more info on reloading manuals:

  I finally have bought most of the commonly cited manuals 
and spent some time looking through them.  I've developed
my own impressions of them, and thought I'd share them and
ask for others' ideas.

  Lyman - 46th ed. 1982.  8 1/2" x 11" 464 pp.
much background and history, extensive tables.  Good
source of general information for beginner and everyone.
Particularly nice is that it gives both suggested starting
loads as well as maximum loads.  It therefore gives more
guidance regarding what to expect than do manuals which only
give one load value which is usually the maximum recommended.
(Note that I am referring to how much loading data for a
given bullet/powder combination.)


  Sierra 2nd ed with update/supplement  1985  (it is hard to
tell how many pages, but it appears to be over 500 pages 5" x 8")
(This is no longer the current one - a new one is out.)
two looseleaf notebooks - one for rifle, one for
pistol.  A lot of detailed information.  Seems more for the
advanced person than for the beginner.  Very extensive treatment,
going pretty deep on ballistics.  It gives a variety of loads
with velocity data, but not pressure, for each.  Has a limited
number of bullets covered - e.g. for .38 Special it only covers
jacketed bullets.


  Hornady 3rd ed. 1980. 6" x 9" 665 pp.
Loads of photos, including some in color.  Very good
illustrations about what happens to the case when it is
fired, good strong emphasis on safety.  Looks like very
good for beginner, with lots of info for everyone.  Gives
a variety of loads with velocities for each.  It also has
a nice Glossary with illustrations, so it is helpful for
a person who is trying to learn some of these confusing
terms (e.g., what is "headspace"?)  This has been supplanted by
the new, two volume, 4th ed, but may still be available at reduced
prices - and would be worth getting for the reading material if
you are not an active reloader and wanting the newest, most complete
edition.

  Hornady Handbook of Cartridge Reloading 4th ed. 1991
6" x 9" hardcover vol 1 is 648 pp, vol 2 is 476 pp.
The first volume is the usual coverage of the basics, which has been
described above, and then the load info.  The second vol. is mostly
exterior ballistics tables, including wind drift, uphill/downhill 
correction tables and charts and conversions.  It ends with an
excellent 13 page illustrated Glossary.  The two vol. format allows
easy reference to vol. 2 material when working with vol 1.  This is
still a very good book for a beginner.

  Speer, number 11, 1987, 621 pp, 5" x 8".
Nice introduction with photographs, but perhaps not as thorough
for the beginner as the Hornady manual.  Much reloading data
with usually 2 or 3 load values for each. 


  RCBS  4th ed 1976. 6" x 9" 64 pp.  (small but inexpensive)
This is a nice little booklet which should be read primarily
for its explanations with illustrations.  It is easy to
read, and is intended as "An introduction to a fascinating
hobby -".  Good to start with.


  Nosler Reloading Manual, Number Three, 1989, 5 1/2 " x 8 1/2",
516 pp.  hardbound.  This is a very practically oriented manual
which covers only loads for Nosler's bullets.  It has an
extensive how-to-do-it section on the details of reloading,
with an interesting section on Technical Tips and Troubleshooting.
However it tends to emphasize the practical aspects and goes
lightly over historical and other related aspects, but it does
have a strong emphasis on hunting.  (This is no surprise to
people who are aware of Nosler's business emphasis.)

  Before each cartridge discussed there is a typically one
page essay from some firearms noteable explaining why that
cartridge is their favorite.  This often gives a little
information about the history of the cartridge or of a gun
which shoots it, and also there are lots of photographs of
people with game shot with Nosler bullets.

  All in all, this is a practical manual which will be of
particular interest to hunters and others who want a directly
practical manual which covers a wide variety of how-to-do-it
information such as cleaning, bore sighting, chamber casting.
Safety practices are covered.


  Powder manufacturer pamphlets - mostly for loading data-
relatively little extra information.  Worth getting, but
little help for beginner.  They are often available at little or 
no cost - either at a reloading supply shop or by writing to
the manufacturer.  Here are a few which I have.

  Winchester  10th ed.  5 1/2" x 8 1/2" 34 pp.

  Winchester 11th ed, "Reloading Components Catalog" 1991
   5/12" x 8 1/2" 49 pp.  This is much more than just the bare listing
   of loading data, it also has discussions on safety, of the
   components, dimensions of cases and a definitions section.  It
   includes loading data for the .40 S&W and 10mm.

  Hercules  1988  5 1/2" x 8 1/2" 51 pp.

  Accurate Arms  4th ed. 5 1/2" x 8 1/2" 34 pp.

  IMR  8 1/2" x 11"  51 pp

  Lee Data Manual for Hodgdon Powders, March 1989, 5 1/2 x 8 1/2 32 pp.


  The person starting reloading should probably get a few of the
big manuals.  I would recommend including the Lyman in the initial
bunch.  (Probably also the RCBS because it is so inexpensive.)  The
Hornady would also be a good choice for a beginner.  I
would also recommend the beginner to ignore the powder mfgr
pamphlets (except perhaps for reading the safety recommendations.)
and perhaps the new Winchester "Reloading Components Catalog" is
more thorough than most of this class.

  Looking up what you are doing in more than one manual increases
your chance of understanding what you are doing and of discovering
typos and other errors.

/****************************************************************/

Is it worthwhile? You'll definitely getting letters from people who
say it is, and I would agree wholeheartedly.  Because I live in
Canada, I end up paying duty and GST (Godamn stupid tax) on anything I
order from the states. Despite this, I went ahead and got a top of
the line progressive press (Dillin 550), scale, calipers, case tumbler
and dies for about 800 Canadian pesos. I worked in the cost to find
out how many rounds I needed to load to make my money back, and
I found that once I've loaded 2000 rounds, I've broken even with
buying factory ammo. Everything after that gets better and better.

With the progressive, I can load about 250 rounds in an hour, and I'm
taking it real slow here as I haven't yet developed a routine for
checking powder, dies, etc.
I should be able to load around 350 in an hour once I've had practice.
In addition, I can tailor my loads to specific velocities; since
I'm getting into IPSC shooting, I want my rounds to go at specific
velocities, and with my own loads, I can reach this without going
too high and risking excessive pressures.

The only cautions (which you will run into time and time again)
are to watch out for stress fractures in your brass and for
squib loads and double charges.
With a good press, both of these can be avoided EASILY.

/****************************************************************/

Well, it really depends upon the cartridge (assuming you're talking rifle/
pistol -- if you're talking shotgun, the answer is an unqualified "yes").
It is obviously not cost-effective to load your own rimfire cartridges and
I can purchase .38 special SWC at $4.50/50, so things like that aren't
cost-effective.  You can attend gun shows and buy things like .30 carbine
and other fairly common reloads for fairly low prices.  Reloading .308, .30-06,
.45 ACP, etc can be cost-effective as you can save as much as 50%.  I am
assuming that a $$ savings of under 20% is not worth it to you due to the
time involved and the lack of interest in finding "the magic load".

Primers -- $20/1000 for shotgun, $15/1000 for centerfire.
Bullets -- $19/25# for shot, $9-18/100 for centerfire.
Powder -- $12/# (or more)
Wads (shotgun only) -- $5-10/250.

/****************************************************************/

I personally can't stand reloading for precision - my Dad handloads
for rifles mostly.  He casts his own bullets, weighs all his charges
and even his bullets sometimes.  All that turned me off to the idea.

There is another route though.  If you're loading pistol you can
go with an inexpensive Lee 1000 ($120) and a scale ($38).  This
press is a progressive press and loads one round with every [OK
almost every :-)] pull of the handle.  All you have to do is put
the bullet on the top of the case.  The .45 I'm loading now cost
$2.99 a box.  I load about 100-200 rds in an hour not counting
cleaning the cases.  (I just wipe of the cases with a paper towel
while I watch TV.)  I have a second Lee 1000 coming this week.
I have only loaded 2000 rounds with it but I have had zero problems
once I figured out what I was doing (20 min).

In addition to the press you'll need:

Bullets: $30-40 for 1000 lead bullets
Primers: $12-15 for 1000 
Powder:  About $12 a pound for what I'm using.
Book:    A reloading manual.

The above example is for the .45 ACP.  Absent is a dial caliper
and case trimmer which don't absolutely need for pistols.

/****************************************************************/

# What do the various supplies cost?

Not too much.  Folks will argue, but the press will cost something
between $25 and $300.  A single stage will appear at the bottom and a
nice progressive at the top. I've got 3 - a RCBS RockChucker single, a
Dillon Square Deal and a Dillon 550B.  I use the RockChucker for heavy
stress things (swaging, etc.), the Square Deal for pistol loads and
the 550B for rifle loads.

A beginning reloader could easily get away with one single stage
press.  As I'm interested in volume as well I use progressive presses
as well.

Other supplies are powder ($8..$14/pound.  A pound goes for about 1000
rounds in pistol, 100 in rifle), bullets ($35/1000 for cast pistol,
50/1000 for jacketed pistol, more if you buy less at a time), primers
($12/1000), cases (price varies as to the weight, save your old ones
and use them).

The other appliances that you might need are a scale, trimming tool
(for rifle only), powder measure (for single stage as the progressives
come with one), brass tumbler.  After complete addiction is obtained
you'll need lead pot, molds, sizing/lubing press, etc.

# How much *time* is involved?  How long does it take you to make n rounds?

If I'm setup on the Square deal it'll take me about 2-3 minutes to get
going, then about 10 minutes/hundred rounds.  If I have to change to a
new  caliber, including a primer size change, that'll add about 10
minutes to the setup time.  Setup involves setting or checking the
powder measure, checking or setting the bullet seat and the crimp.

I usually keep a few hundred rounds loaded and ready to take out in my
safe, and reload when time is available.  My reload time per round is
something like 5-8 seconds total when I use one of my own cast bullets.
That's OK - the total cost is the time and the powder and primer - if
I discount the time used it's cheaper for me to shoot .45 than .22LR.

# What hassles are involved?

Reloading for rifle.  It's a pain to wipe off the lube after sizing
the case.  In pistol (and straight wall cases) you can use a carbide
or nitride sizing die, and avoid the mess of lubing.  Of course,
getting .308 match ammo for $.20/round is a pretty good deal.

/****************************************************************/

#} On a round by round basis, I can reload lead cartridges
#} for about $5.50/100 and jacketed cartridges at about $8.00/100.  This
#} compares to $16.00/100 (lead) and $20.00/100 (jacketed) with commercial
#} reloads.  
#
#I'm having *real* trouble believing the costs in the graf above are for 
#9mm.  (Around here, I pay $6.50 per 50 for 9mm FMJ reloads.)
#
#Can you clarify?  Thanks!

Hmm...let me see.

The above prices are somewhat dated;  sorry about that.

Around here in San Jose, CA, the 9mm LRN (lead round nose) is now $6.50/50.
The 9mm FMJ is now $8.00/50 - your $6.50/50 for FMJ is a real deal.

For me to load one cartridge:

	9mm Speer LRN - ~$32/1000 or 3.2 cents each
	Winchester primer - ~$12/1000 or 1.2 cents each
	Hercules Unique powder - ~$10/lb or .6 cents each
	Case - reusable about 8 times - about 1 cent each

The above add up to about 6 cents/round.  This does not take into
account the following:

         average quality bullets - you can buy cheaper LRN, but not as good 
         as the better-known national brands.
         bulk purchase of supplies - price gets better if you wait for sales
	 cost of tumbling media or electricity
	 rubber gloves (I use 'em, not most people)
	 your time

Since your time is intangible and beyond the scope of this discussion,
it would be safe to say that each 9mm LRN cost 6-7 cents each when reloaded
by me.

Here's a comparative summary

	Local range reloads:  9mm LRN $16/100
	Your range reloads :  9mm LRN $12/100
        my own reloads     :  9mm LRN~$ 7/100 + my time to reload

So my savings is approximately 56% over buying range reloads.
Obviously, if I had access to your prices on reloads, the
savings drops to only 42%.

The intangibles such as ability to load ANY type of round is
hard to place a price tag.  If you load hollowpoint, the cost
savings is dramatic - I like to plink on plastic water bottles
and I simply couldn't afford to do that using factory hollowpoint
loads.  My bullseye loads are really unavailable as range reloads -
I load them real light;  so it's really flexibility and versatility
that you get with reloading, not simply cost savings.

The biggest disadvantage is time;  it conservatively takes me about
200 rounds/hour or 350 rounds/hour if really set up for bulk reloading.
The 500+ rounds/hour is probably possible, but doesn't sound that
safe.

I just checked my log book and have found I had loaded ~4800 rounds of
9mm - my equipment will be amortized in about 20 months of frequent
shooting.  It works out for me.  If you shoot less, it may not be 
advantageous.

/****************************************************************/

I forgot to mention case cleaning.  I made my own vibrator cleaner
but you can buy one for under $65 (or even $40 on occasion from Midway).
Media cost appears to be in the noise.

FMJ need not cost you a bunch.  I get TMJ (no lead exposed) for $40/1M
including shipping for 9mm.  (That's 115gr; 124 costs a buck more
and 147 will run me $46.)  TMJ 45 is pricey, at $65/1M, but that's
far less than name brand bullets.

However, you're not going to save any money, no matter how much you
save per shot, because you'll shoot the savings.  You may even buy
more guns.

/****************************************************************/

So I went to my loading bench and looked:
Powder - $8-10/lb
Primers- $.01 each rifle/pistol - $.02 each shotgun
bullets- you pay for perforance- but cast lead, medium caliber $20-25/500
          add $5-7 for a copper jacket
So say (not counting the brass costs) a box of .38 runs about $3.50/box
compare at $10.00, and a box of .45 runs $4.50 as apposed to $12.00

# How much *time* is involved?  How long does it take you to make n rounds?

To put it simply - a lot. Its addictive. I started reloading with a
Rock-Chucker, powder measure, and a scale. Now a have a Dillon 550B,
a MEC 650, the R-C, and an old Pacific I ended up with on the bad end
of a trade. In addition count on spending $15-35 for each set of dies-
'cause you will (well hell, since I'm all set up I may as well load 
-insert obscure cartridge here-). Which leads to my point, you'll end 
up spending a lot of time and money on this.

To the second point. Set up time for each time you change dies is about
15 min (just a guess I never timed it). As to time/n rounds, I 
would guess about 150 rounds/3hrs (I'm missing a left hand - you can
probibly beat that). This is with the less expensivve single stage.
Now on the progressive, I can do that much in an hour.

# What hassles are involved?

None if you enjoy it - does give you another reason to go to the 
gun shop - and you do end up learning one hell of a lot about 
your weapons.

# What questions haven't I asked, that I should have?

Your gonna need somewhere solid and semi-permanent to set this up.
So consult your better half and hope shes as understanding as mine.

Best o' luck, it really is a lot of fun.
Oh I forgot the tumbler, and media, and the brass boxes, and the books
looots of books, oh and the .....

/****************************************************************/

Well, [writer of previous article] explained that you dont save much
money, true enough.

But another reason that you might like to reload is to create unusual
loads - not "perfect" but rather "different".  My Dad recently got
a little derringer that shoots .38 spl.  Naturally, one thing that
makes sense is to whip up some ultra light .38s for this.

Suppose you have some antique gun you want to create light loads
for - you can do it.

Or maybe you want to reload for your rifle that is chambered for .357 Mag?
You can make the rifle loads that you cant find at the gun store.

/****************************************************************/



-- 
Laird P. Broadfield     lairdb@crash.cts.com    ...{ucsd, nosc}!crash!lairdb
Hi!  I'm a shareware signature!  Send $5 if you use me, send $10 for manual!