HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: edwards@world.std.com (Jonathan Edwards)
Subject: Squeaky floors - HELP!
Organization: IntraNet, Inc.
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1992 00:06:20 GMT

USENET propagation may be too slow to help me out in time, but I have to
figure out ASAP what to do about the squeaks in the floors in my new house.

They are actually more like creaks than squeaks. I had the builder open up
one of the floors, and it appears the problem is the cross-bracing.
We are using solid cross-braces (2x10 joists). It appears that flexion of
the floor causes the cross braces to spread, which pulls on the nails
holding them in. Some of the braces are a poor fit, but others are snug and
still squeak.

WHat is very strange is that these are not long spans (13-14'), and in one
place the squeak is worst right next to a supporting micro-lam.
THe builder has never seen anything like it, and I can not understand what
would cause this problem in my house when people use solid cross-braces all
the time.

I had him cut out the braces and then glue and screw them back in. This
mostly fixes the problem, but not completely!
I am considering just removeing all the cross-braces, as I would prefer a
little more bounce to squeaky floors.

Any advice?

-- 
Jonathan Edwards				edwards@intranet.com
IntraNet, Inc					617-527-7020
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: Dish washers available that run on 120Volts????
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Distribution: na
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 1992 00:36:02 GMT

erickson@atlas.cs.nps.navy.mil (David Erickson) writes:

: >	- I suspect that the first fuse had nothing whatsoever to do with
: >	  the dishwasher.
: >	- if it did, you're fuse box is in gross violation of the electrical
: >	  code (being able to disconnect one side of 220V without getting the
: >	  other).  These rules have been around at least 20 years....
: 
: Come on, now, Chris.  Most houses built since the mid-fifties (at least)
: have had circuit breakers, not fuses.  Houses with fuses have electrical
: systems that are at least 40 years old, perhaps much older.  Therefore,
: your conclusion is faulty, since the electrical code almost invariably
: grandfathers in installations that were correct at the time they were
: made.  The only way the fuse box would be in gross violation of the
: code would be if it had been so at the time it was installed.

Nope. Additions to the panel would have to meet current code. Dishwashers
are not that old. If my reading of the code is correct, to install a
220v dishwasher onto a system that uses fuses, a person would have to use
a 220v fuse, or install a subpanel with a 220v breaker.

Bill
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: bobk@sequent.com (Bob Krull)
Subject: Re: are mortgage points tax-deductible?
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems, Inc.
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 92 15:46:23 GMT

In article <1747@rwja.umdnj.edu> majidi@rwja.umdnj.edu (Masoud Majidi) writes:
>I just bought a house and was wondering if the points that I paid on my
>mortgage are tax-deductible. I asked my lawyer but he wasn't sure.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>--
>Masoud Majidi                           Internet: majidi@umdnj.edu
>Academic Computing Services             Voice: (908) 463-4839
>University of Med & Dent of NJ          Fax:   (908) 463-5252


Find another lawyer.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: ggawron@comm.mot.com (Glenn Gawron)
Subject: Professional Carpet Cleaning or Rental Unit?
Organization: Motorola
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 13:08:11 GMT

We recently closed on our first house and need to do some cleaning before 
moving in.  The carpets are in good shape but the previous owner has a dog 
and we would like to get the carpets cleaned.  I have a couple of questions 
about this.
1.  Is it better to rent a carpet "steam cleaner" from the local super market
    or have a professional service come in and do it?  (Are cleaning 
    fluids the same and is the equipment comparable?)  
2.  If we have a professional do it then what questions should I ask 
    potential services (cleaning fluids, suction equipment etc...)?
3.  Should we go with the stain guard and other "extras"?

Thanks for all your help in advance!!
+----------------------------------------------------------------------+
|Glenn Gawron                          | Internet: ggawron@comm.mot.com|
|Motorola Central Systems Engineering  |    X.400: C10836@email.mot.com|
|1301 E. Algonquin Road - IL02 Rm 0436 |    Voice: (708) 538-3756      |
|Schaumburg, Illinois. 60196 USA       |      Fax: (708) 576-5640      |
+----------------------------------------------------------------------+
>> Disclaimer-Opinions expressed are those of the sender NOT Motorola <<
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: marks@ssdevo.enet.dec.com (Randy Marks)
Subject: Re: Home Humidity Level?
Organization: Digital Equipment Corp. - Colorado Springs
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 20:09:19 GMT


In article <1992Dec7.143034.24424@crd.ge.com>, dangelo@emmax3.ge.com (john d'angelo) writes...
> 
> 
> Does anyone known the proper humidity level for a home?  The Readers Digest
>book on home repair suggests 30-50 percent which seems a bit dry to me.

I just read over the weekend that museums and art galleries strive for
55%.  FWIW.

	Randy Marks
(UUCP)	                {decvax,ucbvax,allegra}!decwrl!ssdevo.enet!marks
(INTERNET)              marks@ssdevo.enet.dec.com
(domain-based INTERNET) marks%ssdevo.enet@decwrl.dec.com
..........................................................................
	"No man's life, liberty, or property is safe
	while the legislature is in session."
..........................................................................
From: paul@hsh.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Help!!  Squeaking Floors!
Date: 31 Dec 92 22:02:45 GMT
Organization: HSH Associates

In article <43986@fibercom.COM>, rrg@rtp.fibercom.com (Rhonda Gaines) writes:
> 
> The floors in the house my husband and I are renting squeak.  It may
> be just our imagination or they may actually be getting worse (you
> notice more sounds when there's a new baby in the house :-)), but
> it's really getting agravating.  It's not an old house (maybe 15
> years??) and it's fully carpeted.  Any ideas??
> 
> P.S. Please reply to rrg@fibercom.com if possible, since I don't
>      read this group regularly.

Others have asked, so now it's public.  :-)

Two methods I'm aware of.  One is to get at the naked boards from above, and 
work some powdered graphite into the cracks.  This actually works, if there 
isn't too much play in between the boards.  (Larger gaps may require 
glazier's points in addition to the graphite.)

I've also read (in Home Mechanix) of a device which is best installed from
beneath:  a kind of brace that screws up onto the joist, and keeps the boards 
from bending.  It ought to be available in most hardware stores.

------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ 

Paul Havemann, VP        HSH Associates          (201) 838-3330 | 1-800-UPDATES
Internet: paul@hsh.com   Compuserve: 70410,3507  America On-Line: HSH Assoc
  ...Any opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the company...
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Insulation cutting tool?
Date: 30 Dec 92 05:01:40 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <1992Dec29.165700.1101@phx.mcd.mot.com> fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com (Fred Christiansen) writes:
>FYI, some folk have recommend a ginsu knife instead of a utility knife.

You remembered ;-)

No, the ginsu ("any cheap serrated breadknife-sized knife") is for rock wool
which is a lot more rigid than fiberglass.  While you can use a utility knife
with rock wool, it's actually faster to use a long serrated knife, stand
the rock wool on edge, and saw thru it as if it was a block of styrofoam.
The stuff we used even had faint grid lines on it, so you could just follow
the lines with the knife by eyeball.  No backer, no straight-edge.

A lot easier than trying to lug a 5' 1x4 plank plus straight edge around
in a very low pitch attic.

Incidentally, ginsus *ain't* indestructable.  16 hours of rock wool cutting
curled the edge and scratched it to heck. ;-)  Once I sharpen it, I think
I start using it for shredding kindling... ;-)

But "sawing" ain't gonna work with fiberglass, so I concur with the utility
knife suggestion.  The stanley reversable retracting metal body types are
good.  So are the 1 inch wide olfa-like snap-off cutters.  But the stanleys
are probably the most common in the trade.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: allen@tessi.com (Allen Warren)
Subject: Re: Mortgage Applications
Organization: Test Systems Strategies, Inc., Beaverton, Oregon
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 18:44:52 GMT

joel@dseg.ti.com (Joel Quejada) writes:

>My wife and I are planning on purchasing a house and I am wondering about
>the things the mortgage company will be interested in finding out, i.e.,
>what are the important points. 

>Specifically, what do they look for in terms of job stability. Will it hurt 
>our approval chances if I, for instance, stayed at one job for only 8-9 
>months before switching? Or do they also take into consideration whether the 
>job change was self-induced or was brought about by job termination?

For what it's worth, I've dealt with two different mortgage companies in the
last 3 years, because we're on our second house in the last three years.
Here is what was required of us:

1.	State and Federal Income Tax Returns for the past two years.
2.	Employment history for the past 5 years (what they told me with this
	was that they were looking for both stability in jobs AND a pattern
	of being in the same profession).
3.	Addresses for the past 5 years.
4.	Pay Stubs from my job for the past couple of months.
5.	Bank Statements for the past 3 months.
6.	Credit Card and loan statements for the past 3 months.
7.	Information on Stocks and Bonds that we owned.

Additionally, if ANY, and I do mean ANY "bad" items show up on a credit report,
these items must be dealt with and resolved.  If the credit report shows that
you even owe $5.00 to some company, and you haven't paid it and it's 3 years
old, you need to pay it and have a letter from the company stating that it's
paid off and the account is settled.  Additionally, if you have any debts
noted on the report as being 30 or more days late, you must provide a letter
stating why that debt was late (at least BOTH mortgage companies had us do
this).

Others may have had differing experiences, but I found that the process was
VERY, VERY irritating since it seemed that the lending institution wanted just
gobs and gobs of papers, info., etc.  Then again, we were getting an FHA loan
and were right at the minimums in terms of the percentages.

Hope this helps.

allen
From: erickson@atlas.cs.nps.navy.mil (David Erickson)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Dish washers available that run on 120Volts????
Date: 18 Dec 92 23:09:02 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey CA

In article <1992Dec18.192917.18401@bcars6a8.bnr.ca> clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis) writes:

>Three comments:
>	- I suspect that the first fuse had nothing whatsoever to do with
>	  the dishwasher.
>	- if it did, you're fuse box is in gross violation of the electrical
>	  code (being able to disconnect one side of 220V without getting the
>	  other).  These rules have been around at least 20 years....

Come on, now, Chris.  Most houses built since the mid-fifties (at least)
have had circuit breakers, not fuses.  Houses with fuses have electrical
systems that are at least 40 years old, perhaps much older.  Therefore,
your conclusion is faulty, since the electrical code almost invariably
grandfathers in installations that were correct at the time they were
made.  The only way the fuse box would be in gross violation of the
code would be if it had been so at the time it was installed.

>	- You trusted the panel labelling? ;-)

This is more to the point.  Any time you work on the electrical system,
use a meter to test every wire.  I once worked for the local electric
utility (PG&E) at one of their largest power plants, and had to run
a conductivity test during a performance test on a 750MW unit.  I was
located on a steel grating about 30' off the ground, directly below the
boiler.  Not only is it fairly noisy, but everything seems to resonate
with a 60 cycle hum, being close to the turbine and the transformers
that feed into the power grid.  I plugged in the conductivity meter,
then pushed the rubber-tired cart which had the meter on it, and began
oscillating at 60 cycles myself.  It turns out that an adaptor I was
using from double prong to twistlock was miswired!  As it came from the
factory, one of the hot legs was switched with ground.  That experience
sure made a believer out of me!  Fortunately I was wearing rubber-soled 
shoes.

So, don't trust the labels.

-Dave Erickson
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: bobpassl@boi.hp.com (Bob Passell)
Subject: How to go low?
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 00:19:38 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

Another request for net.wisdom!

I have my house on the market, priced $100 dollars below
the nearest $100,000 that I think its worth (hint: way less
than 1/2 million, that's for sure ;-> ). My realtor says
that I need to go to $?79,900 in order to sell it. Personally,
I think she's wrong, and I have some measure of respect for
her telling me news that I don't want to hear. However...

I think we could "drift" down a little, to $?94,300 for a
while before going to $?79,900 as she suggests. She is 
adamant that this will only bring disaster, but she won't
explain why. Keeping in mind that her contract is up on 
12/31/92, and I'm willing to spend another 20 days at
$?94,300 before I go to $?79,900, what is this disaster
that awaits me if I drift lower? I hope she's not trying
to bargain-price it in hopes of flogging the thing before her
contract expires, because that's a sure way to lose me 
as a customer. Has anyone else faced this situation before?

Homes in our area sell for just about what we're asking all
the time, in an average of 90-110 days. We've been on the 
market for 95 days and have had lots of activity but no
offers. I have called a sample of the realtors bringing
clients through and not one of them has said "lower the
price, stupid" even though I've led them to the point 
where they could graciously say so. I'm not in a hurry,
but cripes, I _do_ want to sell the house.

Bp

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: dougl@mail.boi.hp.com (Doug Leno)
Subject: Re: Honeywell Electronic Thermostat
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1993 16:06:23 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

David Lesher (wb8foz@skybridge.SCL.CWRU.Edu) wrote:
:  I recall others recently recommending a specific Honeywell
:  model that 'learned' how long it took to heat your house, and
:  reacted accordingly. I think it was a Chronotherm III, or such.
:  My query is directed to those who have purchased it.
: 
:  a) What's the correct name?

Chronotherm III is the  correct name, referring to a family of 'stats with
Adaptive Intelligent Recovery (AIR).  There are three models and many 
variations within each model.  These stats are also referred to as the
"8600" family, because the model numbers are 8600, 8602, and 8621.

:  b) What did you pay for it, and where?

They are available only through authorized Heating/AC contractors, hence the
"Trade Line" designation.  For single stage equipment, expect to pay
(over-the-counter) around $150 for the 8600 or as high as $200 for an 8621.
Some contractors prefer to do installation themselves, since that was the
intent of the product line, and some models may require re-wiring or the
addition of an isolation relay.  However, you should be able to find one
willingto sell the stat to you over-the-counter (no installation).

:  c) How long a warranty did it come with?

In the last conversation I had with Honeywell Customer Service, (800-468-1502)
they stated that this family was offered with a 5 year unconditional warranty.


--
Doug Leno                                    Hewlett Packard Company
Manufacturing Engineering                    11413 Chinden Blvd
Heads and Media                              Boise, Idaho  83714
Disk Memory Division                         (208) 323-3693
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Internet: dougl@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com        dougl%hpdmd48@relay.hp.com
--------------------------------------------------------------------
X.400: AD=ATTMAIL  PD=HP  CC=US  ON=HP  OU1=CORP  OU2=UNIX  OU3=X400
  SN=LENO  FN=DOUG  DDAT1=HPMEXT1  DDAV1=dougl@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: parnass@cbnewse.cb.att.com (Bob Parnass, AJ9S)
Subject: Re: Need help removing concrete nails from slab
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories, Naperville, IL
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 15:17:43 GMT
Summary: use Dremel moto tool to cut off hardened nail in concrete

In article <4081@ecicrl.ocunix.on.ca>,
clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis) writes about cutting off
hardened nails driven in concrete:
 
> This was discussed about a year ago, and I think the concensus was that
> driving them in farther or grinding them off was the best solution.  I think
> a cold chisel will just deform, unless you're lucky and dislodge the nail...

This is another job a Dremel moto tool, equipped with an abrasive cutoff
wheel, can do.  I've (legally) cut through hardened steel padlocks with
this setup.

Dremel sells two grades of cutoff wheels.  Get the more expensive one -- 
the type which looks like woven fiberglass.  The cheaper type can and do
break off and aim for your face when they shatter.

As Chris pointed out, be sure to wear eye protection in any event.
-- 
==============================================================================
Bob Parnass, AJ9S  -  AT&T Bell Labs  -  parnass@ihlpm.att.com - (708)979-5414
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: smb@research.att.com (Steven Bellovin)
Subject: Re: blown-in cellulose and recessed lights
Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1993 19:49:30 GMT
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories

In article <1992Dec29.203550.4039@phx.mcd.mot.com>, fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com (Fred Christiansen) writes:
> I asked one installer what they do and he said, "Oh, the guys just brush
> the cellulose back away from the lights."  Sounds quick, dirty, and slapdash
> to me.  Are there better ways?  Could I erect some kind of barrier so that
> the full depth of cellulose could be had right up to the 3" demarcation?  Thx.

I asked one insulation contractor how they handle it.  He said that they
normally build a sheet metal barrier around the light fixtures.

More details are in the wiring FAQ.  Note that the Canadian codes are much
stricter than the NEC on this point.
From: cc100aa@xray.gatech.edu (Ray Spalding)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: are mortgage points tax-deductible?
Date: 23 Dec 92 17:47:43 GMT
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology

In article <Dec.23.09.18.05.1992.3739@yoko.rutgers.edu> majidi@yoko.rutgers.edu (Masoud Majidi) writes:
>For conventional mortgages if you have paid the points out of your pocket 
>(I didn't know that there was another way of paying anything) if you use 
>the house as your primary residence and if your income is below $102,xxx
>then the points are fully duductible in the year purchase was made.

As I recall, points that qualify as interest are always deductible;
the issue is whether they can be deducted all in the year they are
paid, or have to be spread over the life of the loan.

I think points paid in the purchase of a primary residence may be
deducted in full that year; points paid in a refinance must be
spread out.
-- 
Ray Spalding, Office of Information Technology
Georgia Institute of Technology, Atlanta Georgia, 30332-0715
Internet: ray.spalding@oit.gatech.edu (NeXT Mail accepted)
From: ebupaf@ebu.ericsson.se (Pat Fargo 6266)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: are mortgage points tax-deductible?
Date: 23 Dec 92 14:06:58 GMT
Reply-To: ebupaf@ebu.ericsson.se
Organization: Ericsson Business Communications, Inc.
X-Disclaimer: This article was posted by a user at Ericsson.
              Any opinions expressed are strictly those of the
              user and not necessarily those of Ericsson.

Well, having just bought my seventh home last May, and
having been audited by the IRS over four times, I thought
I should respond to this one. This has always been a problem
for the IRS. Even if you call an IRS agent, you may get two
answers. However, if you read the form A/B itemized deductions,
you will see wording that implies you MAY deduct points. Points 
are really pre-paid interest, and mortgage interest is deductable.
I have claimed all of the points on a re-finance also. You may not
deduct fees to get the mortgage (non-reocurring). Only taxes and
interest are deductible. However, when you sell your home, you should
file a form 2105 (I think) Sale or Exchange or Principle Residence form.
On this form you establish the basis for your capital gains from property.
Each time you sell/buy, you re-compute your base. The higher the base, the
less capital gains. All realestate fees, home repairs to sell your home,
home improvements, offset this base upward.

---
Patrick A. Fargo		Ericsson Business Communication
				Anaheim, California
From: kallan@bingo.ncc.umn.edu (Kris Allan)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: are mortgage points tax-deductible?
Date: 28 Dec 92 16:57:32 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Nutrition Coordinating Center, University of Minnesota

In article <Dec.23.09.18.05.1992.3739@yoko.rutgers.edu>,
majidi@yoko.rutgers.edu (Masoud Majidi) writes:
> For conventional mortgages if you have paid the points out of your pocket 
> (I didn't know that there was another way of paying anything)

When I bought my house last summer, the sellers paid my points.

-- 
There are always more fish in the                 kallan@bingo.ncc.umn.edu
sea; not as cute, nor as rich,
but fish nevertheless.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond)
Subject: Re: Interconnectable Smoke Alarms
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 92 22:06:49 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.

rstarr@pollux.svale.hp.com (Rob Starr) writes:

>I am looking for a smoke alarm which is battery powered and interconnectable.

>I have seen these at home centers but the units which are interconnnectable
>are always 120V powered.  Battery power is a must (not 120V w/ battery
>backup).  An alternative (which I have not seen) is a detector with
>some sort of detachable or remotely connected horn.

Aside from detectors designed for alarm systems, the only one I am aware
of is the First Alert SA86RAC, privately labeled under many other 
names.  this alarm is line or battery powered but the interconnect
does not work except when line powered.  Price is about $12 at Home
Depot.

Supplying line power to these is not difficult.  Since they only draw
milliamps, it is acceptable to run the power using telephone station
wire.  Feed the line through a current limiting device such as a 
resistor.  That's the approach I've taken in my house.  It is plugged
into my computer UPS so power is reliable.  These $80 inverters designed
for on-the-go laptop users is an alternative if you don't have a UPS.
Compared to the approximate $50 cost for alarm detectors, this is 
a cheap out.

John

-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC               |Interested in high performance mobility?  
Performance Engineering Magazine(TM) | Interested in high tech and computers? 
Marietta, Ga                         | Send ur snail-mail address to 
jgd@dixie.com                        | perform@dixie.com for a free sample mag
Need Usenet public Access in Atlanta?  Write Me for info on Dixie.com.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house