HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: harling@pictel.com (Dan Harling)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Fuel octane versus power
Date: 10 Apr 92 17:26:06 GMT
Article-I.D.: pictel.1992Apr10.172606.29228
Organization: PictureTel Corporation

In article <8APR199222150593@sigma.tamu.edu> rcg1597@sigma.tamu.edu (Guynn, Rick) writes:
>	Octane ratings are solely an indication of the fuel's resistance to 
>'knocking' in the engine.  The only parameter of the engine that relates to 
>this is the compression ratio.  The higher the compression ratio, the higher the 
>necessary octane rating to avoid knocking...

This relation also applies to spark advance: the greater the advance,
the higher the necessary octane rating to avoid knocking.  Knocking
occurs when the "flame front" in the cylinder reaches the piston before
it has reached its topmost point.  This will occur not only when
compression ignites the mixture before the spark plug fires (i.e.,
preignition), but also when the spark plug ignites the mixture too
early.

A higher octane rating indicates a slower-burning fuel, which means
that the flame front starting at the spark plug takes longer to reach
the piston.  This means that the spark can be advanced more without
knocking, which (for reasons I'll leave for the true "gearheads" on the
net) can result in improved performance.


>And yes the guy's friend was probably having some psychodelicfeeling of 
>increased power when it wasn't there, but hey, if it makes you feel better, 
>throw that money at the gas pumps! They love it!

This "psychology of premium fuel" undoubtedly carries some truth in
many cases.  Nevertheless, if you have advanced your car's timing you
may also need to go to the next grade of gasoline.  Whether the
increased performance (if any) is worth the extra price is up to you.
____________________________________________________________________________
Daniel A. Harling                        (harling@pictel.com)
PictureTel Corp.             Opinions expressed are not necessarily those of
Peabody, MA  01960                 PictureTel, but they ought to be!
From: danapple@vicor.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Toyota 4Runner/Pickup Towing Capacity
Date: 13 Apr 92 18:59:44 GMT


I've been looking at Toyota pickups and 4Runners, and have a quick
question about towing capacity.  The Toyota 1 Ton pickup can tow 5000
lbs, and hold 2500lb payload.  The 4WD pickups and 4Runner can tow
3500 lbs, and hold a much smaller about in payload (I don't remember,
exactly).  Basically, what I'm curious about is what changes are made
to the 1 Ton to increase it's towing capacity?  Is it just heavier
springs?  The literature only mentions heavy duty leaf springs.  It
doesn't mention frame-reinforcement, or a heavy duty transmission.
Are there aftermarket kits available to increase the towing/hauling
capacity of Toyota 4WD pickups or 4Runners?

(Recommendations like "Don't buy Toyota, buy [x], instead" will be
ignored.)

Daniel I. Applebaum  |  danapple@vicor.com  |  1986 Celica Supra "NVR DNF"
    "When the car is airborne nothing works, the brakes don't work,
     steering doesn't work, the gas pedal doesn't work, nothing works !!"
                            --- Gerry Brinkman "Principles of Rallying" #2
From: kiviat@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Brian Kiviat)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Ford Bronco II from where?
Date: 15 Apr 92 12:54:29 GMT
Reply-To: kiviat@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Brian Kiviat)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

Where were the Bronco II's made? Are they in part a Mazda product?
I'm talkin' about a '90-91 vintage.

Thanks,
Brian
From: sasjzb@unx.sas.com (Joseph C. Brandt)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: G.M. (late model) pickups (ROAR)
Date: 16 Apr 92 15:33:32 GMT
Reply-To: sasjzb@unx.sas.com (Joseph C. Brandt)
Distribution: na
Organization: SAS Institute Inc.
X-Bytes: 102

Could it be the fan clutch kicks in and you hear a
fan roar or is it engine roar (rpm goes up)??
/Joe
From: tracye@hpcvra.cv.hp.com (Tracy Evans)
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 17:59:19 GMT
Subject: Re: Help w/ '76 M4MC Quadrajet
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Corvallis, OR, USA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

Yeah, I think we are talking about the same thing... I am not familiar with the
the term aneroid, but I think you are refering to what I call the APT.. damn,
now I can't remember what the A stands for, but the PT stands for part
throttle..  

tracy
From: rcg1597@sigma.tamu.edu (Guynn, Rick)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Fuel octane versus power
Date: 9 Apr 92 03:15:00 GMT
Organization: Texas A&M University, Academic Computing Services
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <31457@sdcc12.ucsd.edu>, scrandel@sdcc13.ucsd.edu (S. Crandell         ) writes...
>In article <92099.084312JBEST@ESOC.BITNET> JBEST@ESOC.BITNET (Jon) writes:
>>Does anyone out there know how a change in octane rating affects power?

>     Does using a higher octane really boost power?
> 
>     What about those octane boosters (like 104+ that comes in a red
>can)  Do they really add power or are they a waste of money??
> 
>     I was told my a friend that after he put octane booster in his
>gas his Toyota Pickup would go up hills with more power.  Was he
>right or did he just "think" it was more powerful because he put in
>the octane booster?
     It was all in his mind......

	The answer to this question is fairly simple.

	Octane ratings are solely an indication of the fuel's resistance to 
'knocking' in the engine.  The only parameter of the engine that relates to 
this is the compression ratio.  The higher the compression ratio, the higher the 
necessary octane rating to avoid knocking.  If your vehicle has a considerably 
high compression ratio (>9.5) then it is possible that your engine will not run 
too well on the really cheap 87 or 89 octane fuel (knocking is a detriment to 
performance)  that is why the racing cars have to have special fuels.  They 
generally run in the 12.5 CR area.  MOST (not all) cars today run in the 8.5 - 
9.0 range on compression ratios, so these really high octane fuels are not 
really necessary.  About the only thing they are good for is that a few added 
detergents may keep your engine a little cleaner (in the long run).

So yes, the 104+ octane additives are a waste of money unless you are running a  
really hopped up rod with a high CR.
And yes the guy's friend was probably having some psychodelicfeeling of 
increased power when it wasn't there, but hey, if it makes you feel better, 
throw that money at the gas pumps! They love it!

-Later

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: steve@acuson.com (Steve Benelisha)
Subject: Re: California emissions, new cars, and moving to California
Organization: Acuson; Mountain View, California
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1992 15:46:37 GMT


Perhaps this is simplistic but you could special order your
car with the California Emissions package.  You probably
would have to wait a little longer but you would avoid 
all of the problems you mention.

BTW, as you already know, California Emissions law is getting
real strict. I read in the paper (some time ago) that they want 
to do roadside Emission checks (what will they think of next?) 
You may be happier, in the long run, if your car doesnt stand out.

Steve
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
From: jxs18@po.CWRU.Edu (Jerry Sy)
Subject: what happened to volvo mailing list
Reply-To: jxs18@po.CWRU.Edu (Jerry Sy)
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 92 14:51:02 GMT


is the volvo mailing list still active ?
sending mail to volvo-net@me.rochester.edu just bounces back
with user unknown error.

please email response.

jerry

From: michaeln@hpcvnb.CV.HP.COM (Mike_Nason)
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 92 05:06:51 PDT
Subject: Re: Question on Small block parts swap ..
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Corvallis, Oregon
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

hi all, 
   yes they will run. i've done it myself with out problem. and the best
part is they're cheaper to find. (anyone need a free set?)
   have fun! mike nason 
   ka7hbb/ also a member of pacific nw 4 wheel drive assc / strawberry hill
   4 whellers
From: harling@pictel.com (Dan Harling)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Computerized tranny
Summary: Sounds pretty bad to me.
Date: 16 Apr 92 20:30:10 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: PictureTel Corporation

In article <1992Apr10.172700.9684@cs.tulane.edu> fs@cs.tulane.edu (Frank Silbermann) writes:
>
>I test drove a used '87 Celebrity wagon (88k miles)
>with a computer-controlled 4-speed automatic transmission.
>The shifting was very harsh (it felt like a stickshift car
>with an incompetent driver) -- much harsher than a similar car
>I once drove.  The transmission fluid was brownish orange.

Brownish-orange tranny fluid is definitely *not* a good sign.  The
tranny might be rebuildable, or it might be junk.  Assume "junk" when
you negotiate.


>The owner said the shifting was harsh since the car was new,
>and that transmission had failed and was replaced at < 60k miles,
>just before the extended warrantee expired.
>
>Is problem easily fixable for ~$1k by replacing the transmission,
>(perhaps the dealer simply patched the tranny to get him through
>the warrantee period)?  Or could this be one of those undiagnosible
>computer glitches?  Might it need only a simpler, cheaper adjustment?

I suspect you are right about the dealer.  Someone should ask them
where they get off posing a bad tranny as a "warranty replacement."
Short of neglect or outright abuse, no transmission should degrade to
that point in 30K miles!  The fact that the previous one had failed as
well indicates that either the owner abused them both, the dealer
patched it up as you said, or they should all be recalled by the
factory.


>If I do buy it cheap and fix the transmission,
>is there any other work I should consider having done
>as long as it's disassembled (given it's an 88k car)?
>I didn't see any signs of oil burning (though it was 1.2 quarts low).

Check for drips underneath the car.  Be sure the car is parked where it
usually is kept when you do this; if they take it out just for you to
look at, they may not want you to see what the pavement underneath it
begins to look like over time.  Letting it sit in place for half an
hour or so after driving should give it enough time to "take a leak" if
it wants to.
____________________________________________________________________________
Daniel A. Harling                        (harling@pictel.com)
PictureTel Corp.             Opinions expressed are not necessarily those of
Peabody, MA  01960                 PictureTel, but they ought to be!
From: tracye@hpcvra.cv.hp.com (Tracy Evans)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1992 20:08:13 GMT
Subject: Re: Help w/ '76 M4MC Quadrajet
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Corvallis, OR, USA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

> Simple question.  Does anyone know how to set the mixture aneroid on a
> Quadrajet M4MC?  I've heard to seat it, then back out 4 turns...is this
> right?  

	Well, I read 3.5...  so you're in the ball park...

tracy
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kevin@taronga.taronga.com (Kevin Brown)
Subject: Re: HILFE!!!
Reply-To: kevin@taronga.taronga.com (Kevin Brown)
Organization: Minimal.
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 23:25:20 GMT

In article <1992Apr14.211328.10520@nic.unh.edu> wrl@kepler.unh.edu (William R Letourneau) writes:
>In article <1992Apr13.054108.16297@menudo.uh.edu> kevin@taronga.taronga.com (Kevin Brown) writes:
>>In article <1992Apr12.173602.29695@nntp.hut.fi> iceman@vipunen.hut.fi (Joni Siltaniemi) writes:
>>>
>>>I have an old BMW 315. I am coming to Germany in summer and I'm going
>>>to have the "engine" replaced there.
>>
>>The "engine"?  You mean what's under the hood now isn't a real engine?
>>
>>Well, if you want a *real* engine, why not try putting in a Ford 302?  :-)
>>
>  
>  Because he wants an engine that will last more than 80k miles....

80k miles?  I'd think that would be a piece of cake for the 302, as long
as you kept it lubricated properly.

In any case, if he doesn't think he has a real engine in his 315, but
rather an "engine", who am I to argue with him?  :-) :-)

>>Sorry, I couldn't resist.  :-)
>>
>  Neither could I ;^)

I can tell.  :-)

So what "engine", er, I mean engine, would you put in his car?

>wrl@kepler.unh.edu
>bletourn@comptel.unh.edu                         BMW 320I w 210K on it
>bql@noah.unh.edu                                 and it still blows away
>						 many 4 bangers..


		Kevin Brown (kevin@taronga.taronga.com)

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mellum@skyler.mavd.honeywell.com
Subject: Re: Where to buy Car diagnostics computer???
Organization: Honeywell Systems & Research Center
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 17:56:36 GMT

In article <1992Apr15.114944.17049@linus.mitre.org>, rll@fatima.mitre.org (Roberto L. Landrau) writes:
> In most cases, all you need is an analog voltmeter, a piece of wire to
> make a jumper connection, and the service manual to interpret the
> diagnostics codes.  Total cost: $10.00-$20.00 for the voltmeter at
> Radio Shaft plus $10.00-$60.00 for the service manual, depending on
> the car.
> 
True, that may be all you need to check somethings, but you won't be able to
check a lot of the engine parameters that the computer uses. To view those
you will need a scanner or equivalent. I have an OTC 2000 with the '91 software
module (3-in-1, GM, Ford, Chrysler), not only can you scan the parameters
"live", it allows you to record and save the parameters. This can come in handy
when troubleshooting an intermittent problem.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: RE: ROLLING A CAR, GENERA
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 14 Apr 92 16:54:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * Jacksonville AR USA * 501-985-0059

-> learn a little about vehicle dynamics (weight transfer) and the
-> importance of smoothness. Car control is not something that someone
-> can explain to you: you must get instruction in a car from an
-> experienced driver.

 I learned more than I expected from the SCCA autocross school I took
last summer, but if you have a decent-sized dirt or gravel parking lot
or field handy, you can get the feel of the car at/past its control
limits without excessive speed or grinding up expensive tires.
From: ravalent@rodan.acs.syr.edu (Readin' Da News...)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: RE: carbon
Date: 15 Apr 92 05:21:37 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY


  With all the discussion of carbon build-up and removal, I thought I'd
my .02 cents worth.

   For carbon removal, I pour auto trans. fluid down the carb slowly, 
as not to stall out the motor.  I've only done this on older cars, i.e., 
older than 1985.  It generally produces LARGE clouds of a whiteish smoke,
and I stop when the smoke is white, not grey when it starts. It seems to
remove the carbon (at least on mine it did), and the engine seemed to run
smoother.  I've tried this on both carbed and f.i. cars, [gasoline], and
I have YET to screw a sensor or catalytic converter.  My car passed the
NY emmissions after this, tho the EPA would have had my head while I was 
putting trans fluid in the intake.

Disclaimer: Try the above at your own risk.  It works for me.          

[environmentalist flame shields up]

------>  Bob
From: tjc@uniplex.co.uk (Tim Clarke)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Mobil 1 change intervals
Date: 10 Apr 92 18:42:30 GMT
Reply-To: tjc@uniplex.UUCP (Tim Clarke)
Organization: Uniplex Limited, Redwood House, Hemel Hempstead

I have used Mobil 1 in my motorcycles for about 4 years, but I change the oil very frequently due to the fact that the engine is air-cooled and a combined sump
and gearbox, so the oil gets a real hammering.
Has anyone any experiece of how Mobil 1 stands up in a combined sump/gearbox engine (e.g. A series engines in Austin Minis).


Tim Clarke
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: an honest mechanic!
From: derek@fivegl.co.nz (Derek Tearne)
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 92 00:38:30 GMT
Reply-To: derek@fivegl.co.nz (Derek Tearne)
Organization: Task Management Ltd, Auckland, New Zealand

In article <9204021658.AA10587@volitans.morningstar.com> you write:
>When I sit at a traffic light with the clutch pedal depressed, the
>clutch gradually engages itself... 

Might I  suggest putting the vehicle in neutral and taking your 
foot off the clutch at the lights. This may seem a bit radical but 
it stops those awful leg muscle cramps! Actually to be serious
this is a bad habit to get into. If one rainy day you get into
the car with muddy feet and your foot slips,(or a siren in the 
distance makes you turn your body slightly or a really attractive 
girl walks past ). Car jumps forward into moving traffic stream
and  BLAM #*$@&! Several thousand dollars worth of panel work.
Not to mention any injuries etc. 

                                ...It's hard for anyone but me to drive
>the car, which is inconvenient when my wife needs to take it because
>I'm driving "her" car with the kid seat installed... 

My 'wife' could drive your car, but then again she wouldn't leave
her foot on the clutch at the lights!

Good to hear there are honest mechanics out there though.     

Derek "I could drive it too" Tearne
-- 
Derek Tearne      derek@fivegl.co.nz | If yo
  rek      l   .nz                   | yo
New Zea
and while he wasn't looking the .sig eaters were busy at work
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: crimmins@Csli.Stanford.EDU (Mark Crimmins)
Subject: Electric Fuel Pump Noise: normal ?
Organization: Stanford University CSLI
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 16:43:22 GMT


I have an '84 BMW 318i, which has an electric fuel pump back by the
gas tank.  I have had no performance problems (such as poor
performance at high revs), but I worry about the noise I hear from the
pump.  Normally it makes a fairly quiet hum, together with a kind of
nervous "scritchy" sound that sounds a bit like a high-pitched
slurping (could it be cavitating?), though it may well be a "loose
parts" noise or a grinding; another description of the noise: like
someone lightly shaking twenty lead pellets in a small hard plastic
box.  After extended highway driving, though, it complains with a
medim-high-pitched wail---not loud, but definitely a complaint rather
than a purr.  Is this normal from an electric fuel pump, or am I
liable to be stuck on the highway someday soon?

BTW, I have replaced the main fuel filter (which goes between the pump
and the engine), and this didn't appreciably change the noises.

Thanks for any advice.  Sorry to post with such a minor question, but
keep in mind that fuel pumps from Bavaria cost a fair bit o' change.

Mark
mdc@crux1.cit.cornell.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: Peter A. Cohen <peterco@eff.org>
Subject: Re: Stupid Headlight question
Organization: ON Technology, Inc.
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1a2
Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1992 18:14:00 GMT

Unless you have some headlight apparatus I've never heard or seem of
before, a new headlight should do the trick just dandy.  This has
happened to me several times in several different cars.

One word of advice, however- make sure you replace the headlamp quickly. 
Depending on what sort of car you drive, you can expect the other
headlamp to go fairly soon because of the load differences...

- Peter
From: colombo@bronco.fnal.gov
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Ford 150 Blues
Date: 17 Apr 92 21:15:21 GMT
Article-I.D.: linac.ZKW42GNKX
Organization: Fermilab Computing Division

In article <2700065@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com>, wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii) writes:
> 
> Is this a 4X4?  You'll have to pull the transfer case, too, if it is. 
> 


I'm not sure if the F-150 is any different from my Bronco (there are many
similarities), but I don't have to remove the tranny/transfer_case at all!
I simply (ha ;-) disconnect the driveshafts and clutch linkage, unbolt the
cross member, remove the floor cover for the shifters and slide the whole
thing back.  Piece of pie, I can do the whole job myself.

 ___________________________________________________________________________
 *****  *   *  From the e-net desk of: Rick Colombo CD/DCD/DSG    *    *
 *      **  *  Fermi Nat'l Acc'l Lab   708-840-8225 Fermilab     * *   *
 ***    * * *  P.O. Box 500   MS 369   Feynman Computer Center  *****  *
 *      *  **  Batavia, Ill. USA 60510 Colombo@fnal.fnal.gov    *   *  *****
 *  Sure to get `Flamed' if I didn't cross all my i's and dot all my t's ;-)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jimf@centerline.com (Jim Frost)
Subject: Stiffening suspension cheaply
Organization: CenterLine Software, Inc.
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 15:45:40 GMT

[A similar query was posted on rec.autos a couple of weeks ago with no
replies.  I'm hoping for better luck here.]

I have a '92 Geo Storm 2+2.  Sometimes when I hit a road dip one of
the wheels hits the well, even at moderate speeds.  I've yet to push
the car hard enough to cause this problem during a turn (although I've
pushed it pretty hard), but it's fairly easy to do on uneven roads --
which are the norm in the Boston area.

The problem seems more pronounced in cold weather than in warm.

Since I'm only a budding autophile I'm looking for opinions on how I
could stiffen the suspension somewhat to avoid having the tire hit the
well without completely destroying the quality of the ride.  What are
my options, what are the approximate costs, and how will each affect
the ride?

Thanks for any information,

jim frost
jimf@centerline.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kevin@taronga.taronga.com (Kevin Brown)
Subject: Re: HILFE!!!
Reply-To: kevin@taronga.taronga.com (Kevin Brown)
Organization: Minimal.
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 05:41:08 GMT

In article <1992Apr12.173602.29695@nntp.hut.fi> iceman@vipunen.hut.fi (Joni Siltaniemi) writes:
>Achtung BMW-drivers in Germany!!!
>
>I have an old BMW 315. I am coming to Germany in summer and I'm going
>to have the "engine" replaced there.

The "engine"?  You mean what's under the hood now isn't a real engine?

Well, if you want a *real* engine, why not try putting in a Ford 302?  :-)


>-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>*		             Joni Siltaniemi                                  *
>*		iceman@vipunen.hut.fi, s37914l@kaira.hut.fi		      *
>-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Sorry, I couldn't resist.  :-)


		Kevin Brown (kevin@taronga.taronga.com)

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kewert@fraser.sfu.ca (Kenneth Ewert)
Subject: Re: How to disable the limiter in 1992 CIVIC DX
Organization: Simon Fraser University, Burnaby, B.C., Canada
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1992 18:29:58 GMT

Well, not to put anyone down, but I've burried the needle on my
89 civic SI (180km/h ??) and had *alot* more room to go.  My best
guess is approx 190-95 tops before I had to slow down.  All this
from a 1.6 108hp engine.  
(and no it wasn't downhill with a strong wind !!!!!!)
 
For my money, its a honda everytime (but I do have to admit
that i'm not crazy about the new civic styling, but that is just
personal taste)
 
Driving with a smile!
Ken
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: FORD 200-250 SWAP  ANY DI
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 15 Apr 92 08:31:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * Jacksonville AR USA * 501-985-0059

-> Bout to swap the engine in the wife's car and would like to swap out
-> the 200 for the 250,  Any differences besides a different water pump
-> ??

 Make ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN the new engine has the same transmission bolt
pattern unless you're using a new trans too.  Ford used at least three
different bolt patterns on the small six (144-250).  Two special six
cylinder patterns, and one pattern that matched the later V8s.

 If you have the V8 pattern, consider the 240 "big six".  (There was
also a 300).  The 240 has a much better intake, bigger valves, more
oversquare bore to stroke ratio, and is generally a better engine, but
you'd have to get a 240 alternator backet, modify the exhaust pipe,
possibly change radiator hoses, etc.