From: shapiro@oucsace.cs.ohiou.edu (Brian Shapiro)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: For: ramis@cbnewsj.att.com
Date: 23 Jul 92 15:44:09 GMT
Organization: Ohio University C.S. Dept, Athens



THis is in response to your query regarding the problem with your table
saw. For others who read this I am not a wood working pro just offering some 
advice from my past experiences. Remember, it's worth what it cost!

brian
 
BTW - this is posted because my mail to ramos@cbnewsj.att.com bounced.

> 
> I own a bottom-of-the-line 8" craftsman direct drive table saw that I'm having
> problems with.  Since I've been on a tool buying binge lately I can't run
> out and replace it without risking a divorce :-).  (I am, however, starting
> to grease the skids by slipping subtle complaints into our conversations).
> 
> Anyway, a couple of weeks ago I bought my first replacement blade for the
> saw.  I bought an Oldham proffessional (?) carbide tipped blade from a local 
> home depot for about $29.00.  After installing the blade, a cut a small 
> piece of pine and concluded that I had the best tool known to man.  The cut 
> was far better than anything produced on the saw until then.  A few days later
> I decided to put it to work and started ripping 3/4" birch.  I was scared
> for my life!!  The thing was screaming as the blade started oscillating.
> It would oscillate every few inches until it tore out a kerf wide enough 
> so that it wouldn't contact the stock any more.  While this is going on 
> I'm practically crouched down and holding onto the wood for dear life.
> The blade gouged the edges and completely burned the wood.  I could have
> done a better job with an axe.
> 
> The oscillations can be described as kind of a sawtooth function where they 
> increased in violence until it hit peak amplitude and then stopped suddenly.
> I spoke to an employee at woodcraft who suggested that the entire motor
> assembly might be vibrating. So I went home and tightened every bolt I could
> find.  The results are somewhat better now but I suspect its because I've 
> learned to control the feed rate better.
> 
> Has anyone out there had such an experience.  Is it a saw or is it a blade
> problem.  I was thinking that the problem might be related to the fact that
> the saw only has a 1/2 HP motor and can't handle the birch.  I've realigned 
> my fence so I don't think that's the problem.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks 
> Rich Ramos
> 908-576-6267


I would recommend looking at the following.

1.) The Blade. Did you loose a tooth that has thrown the blade off balance?

2.) The Arbor. Is the blade moving on the shaft because the nut that
secures the blade has become loose.

3.) Blade stiffners. These have been recommended often to me. I have hesitated
to purchase them for fear that they will reduce the thinkness/depth of the
cuts being made. I can say that I saw some of these at sears for about $12.

4.) The motor. Is the motor securely mounted to the frame. It should not
move unless you move the adjustment controls.

5.) Rate of feed. THis is probably important on a direct drive saw. I have 
a 10" direct drive and it will bind if the feed rate is too high. The horse
power rating that you see on the saw is probably developed horse power. 
This is determined using some formula that takes a smaller horse power
rated motor which turns faster than other motors and accounts for horse
power relative to the greater speed. 

Just FYI - if you are using Carbide tipped blades and are not satisfied with
the smoothness of the cuts you may want to change to a steel blade like
a combination/planer type. This should make for smooth cuts but more sharpening
of the blade. I recently found this to be the case.

Best of Luck. Drop me note if you determine the cause.

brian

-- 
Brian Shapiro, Systems Support Specialist
Ohio University, Athens, Ohio 45701
(614) 593-1608
shapiro@oucsace.cs.ohiou.edu or SHAPIROB@OUACCVMA.BITNET