HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: bsloan@dale.ksc.nasa.gov (bill sloan)
Subject: Re: Band Saw and wood lathe
Organization: nasa
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 12:04:14 GMT

In article <2498@news.cerf.net>, jde@nic.cerf.net (Jeff Ellis) writes:
> 
> I am also looking at a Delta 12" Wood Lathe. This is the 3/5hp
> variable speed model. I am planing on doing some spindle turning
> but more making plates, bowels, and cups.
> This is just for fun and making home use and gift items.
> 
I looked at the Delta as well, but ended up with the Jet JWL-1236 - for about
$100 more included a floor stand and faceplate accessories that you pay
extra for with the Delta.

I initially had a problem with some of the castings (tool rests, tool rest
extensions) fracturing under load; Jet customer service was excellent - sending
out replacement parts no questions asked!  They have since redesigned these
parts.  On the tool rest pieces: Tool rest base, tool rest, and tool rest
extension.  make sure you get the 1" versions (-A part numbers)  the 3/4"
parts WILL  fracture.

All in all I am pleased with the lathe.

Bill Sloan
From: whipple@raged.zko.dec.com (Edgar Whipple)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Oxalic acid and redwood burl
Keywords: oxalic acid, redwood burl
Date: 14 Aug 92 18:40:53 GMT
Reply-To: whipple@raged.zko.dec.com (Edgar Whipple)
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation


Does anyone have any experience or instructions concerning the use of
oxalic acid to enhance the color and/or grain of wood, in particular, a
slice of a redwood burl. If I am not mistaken, oxalic acid is sold as a white
crystalline powder, which is then dissolved in water (cold?, in what
proportions?), and applied to the wood with a brush. What next?  Leave it on?
Wash the wood down after some time? Any pointers would be appreciated. Thanks.
--

Edgar Whipple
From: games@max.u.washington.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re:  wood lathe
Date: 12 Aug 92 20:53:44 GMT

In article <2498@news.cerf.net>, jde@nic.cerf.net (Jeff Ellis) writes:

> I have been in the market for a band saw and wood lathe for
> home/small shop use, and after reading the stuff here about
> Grisley pro/con, I thought I might ask if any of you have
> used the following:
...
> I am also looking at a Delta 12" Wood Lathe. This is the 3/5hp
> variable speed model. I am planing on doing some spindle turning
> but more making plates, bowels, and cups.
> This is just for fun and making home use and gift items.
> 
I have seen the new DELTA, and it weighs less than the older ones.  The
advantage to the more weight is that they are better at dampening vibration
induced by the spinning of whatever it is.

I would advise you to also look into finding a used one.

(There is a guy who advertizes in the back of fine woodworking in OLLALLA
washington that runs Pacific Northwest Woodworking tools? (not the right name 
for sure), in any case, he does a spectacular job at refinishing old tools, you
might call him.)

		John.
From: john@ssd.kodak.com (John Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Cabinet scraper advice?
Date: 17 Aug 92 17:31:30 GMT
Article-I.D.: pixel.1992Aug17.173130.27333
Distribution: na
Organization: Eastman Kodak
Originator: john@liebnitz

Last weekend I bought a Stanley #80 cabinet scraper at a flea market.

It seems that "cabinet scraper" can mean two things: either a piece of
sheet metal with a burr on the edge that is held in the hands, or a
thing that looks kind of like a spokeshave with a sheet metal blade in
it.  What I bought was the second kind.

I've been using the first kind for a while and get pretty good results,
but my hands get tired and my thumbs get hot!  Never having used a
handle-type cabinet scraper, I hope some kind soul can answer some
questions for me:

1. The blade has no burr on it.  Should it?  Is it done the same way as
on a hand scraper: file, stone, (consolidate?), burnish?

2. The long edges of the blade are not square to the faces as on a hand 
scraper, but have been ground to about a 30 degree angle from the face.
Is this correct?

3. One of the long edges of the blade appears to have once been grooved
or serrated in some way.  Why?

4. There are two thumbscrews that secure the blade and a third one that
bows it.  This acts as a depth-of-cut control, right?

5. Any tips on style? Is it better to pull or push?  How does one make
this tool do its best work?

-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
John Hall, Product Software Engineering, EASTMAN KODAK CO., Rochester NY
716 253 7446   john@kodak.COM   ...!rochester!kodak!ektools!john
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: chair/table
Date: 19 Aug 92 00:48:35 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <Bt6KGD.37v@news.udel.edu> sine@ravel.udel.edu (sine@sun.acs.udel.edu) writes:
>I am looking for plans for a Colonial style chair/table (don't know if
>it has another name).  This is a piece in which the back of the chair
>flips down to form the table top.  I've only been woodworking for a
>little over a year, so I'm not ready for anything too complex, but I'd
>like to take a look at a variety of plans.

I think they're simply called "chair-tables".  I believe that they
originated with the Shakers who made things simple, but with multiple
functions.  Several of Thomas Moser's books have plans for them.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
From: ron@pilot.njin.net (Ron Natalie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: router
Date: 13 Aug 92 12:54:19 GMT
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

Of course, my R501 router has seen moderate duty for the past five
years and I've not had any need to repair it.  It's even seen use
by some, how should I put this, rather non-adept woodworkers, here.
Oddly enough, accessory parts (guide bushings, etc...) seem to be
easily available here from the mail order place I bought it from.

I believe Porter Cable is the same as Delta now, and I can tell you
that obtaining parts from Delta is not cheap either.

-Ron
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Date:         Mon, 17 Aug 1992 07:09:11 -0800
Reply-To:     don@biivax.dp.BECKMAN.COM
From:         Don Roberts <DSROBERTS@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM>
Subject:      model ship building

There was a recent request for model ship building plans.  Although this is not
as involved, the mail order catalog _Classics in The Making_ has many model
ship building kits (with quoted labor times of up to 200 hours).  Perhaps this
would be of interest to the requestor.  They're located in Cape Cod and their
phone number is 1.800.568.0968.  Call and ask for the catalog.  They have other
interesting toys like working model steam engines, kaleidoscopes, etc.

I'd love to put together their Robert E. Lee riverboat kit ($425), but can't
justify the expense (or the 150 hours).

If nothing else it will give you an idea of the time and tools needed for this
kind of hobby :-)

   Don Roberts                   Internet:  don@beckman.com
   Beckman Instruments, Inc.     Phone:     714/961-3029
   2500 Harbor Bl. Mailstop X-12 FAX:       714/961-3351
   Fullerton, CA  92634          Disclaimer:  Blame me, not Beckman.
   People are as happy as they decide to be - A. Lincoln
From: tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Reproduction of letters (was: Grizzly etc.)
Date: 17 Aug 92 05:18:41 GMT
Distribution: usa, na
Organization: University of Arizona UNIX Users Group


Funny, our University aheld a day long seminar on Patents, Copyrights,
and Inventions, in which they assured us that anything we send out
WITHOUT "(C) Copyring Date Whom" is in the public domain and fair
game.
From: games@max.u.washington.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: HELP! Can't find replacement belt for sander
Date: 13 Aug 92 18:54:46 GMT

In article <1992Aug13.151854.18815@stortek.com>, bernie_marasco@stortek.com (bernie marasco) writes:
> I inherited a "Power House" hand belt sander Model #72110 from my father.
> It must be atleast 25 years old and I can't seem to find any replacement 
> belts for it (4" X 21 3/4").  Does anyone out in net land know of where 
> I might find a replacement belt?
> 
Try a place called suprisingly enough  "THE SANDING CATALOG"
	1-800-822-0000

They have a wide vareity of good quality belts, and will custom make
belts as well.

The other thing to try is with the local yellow pages looking up
abrasives.  You will find places that will custom make belts, but be prepared
to buy in quantity of about 25 belts per grit that you want per order.

(I have bought from the sanding catalog, and have been generally happy with
the service.  Not thrilled, just happy)

			John.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: Richard McDonald
Subject: Cabinet saws info please
Keywords: cabinet saw table review 
Reply-To: mcdonald@bnr.ca
Organization: Northern Telecom Limited
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 15:10:56 GMT

I'm sure this has been asked & discussed at length; my apologies & answers in
where-to-find-the-archive-file form accepted.

Getting back into the hobby after a few years, and it's time to purchase a
cabinet-style saw.  Looking (in Canada) at a number of similar brands like
Unisaw, and General.  Then there are the Taiwan brands like (Canada) Busy Bee
running about 50% less here.  

Any comments or experiences would be appreciated.  If there is a document
summarizing previous discussions, a copy would be appreciated. 

Thanks,
  Richard
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: rlw@IDA.ORG (Richard Wexelblat)
Subject: Re: Band Saw and wood lathe
Organization: IDA, Alexandria, VA
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 92 10:56:15 GMT

The "little" delta lathe is just too lightweight to do any faceplate
turning of material over, say, 8" diameter.

That goes pretty much for any lathe costing under $1K.

This is true in spades if you want to work with natural (i.e. it starts
out very untrue, unround, unhomogenious) wood sources.

That's life.
-- 
--Dick Wexelblat  (rlw@ida.org) 703 845 6601
  The more viruses you get exposed to, the better your immune system becomes.
From: rcbi27@muvms3.bitnet (DBRUM)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Unfinished Chair Frames (was Chair Designs)
Date: 12 Aug 92 17:20:03 GMT
Organization: Marshall University

In article <1992Aug11.170722.18981@cs.cmu.edu>, neek+@CS.CMU.EDU (Craig Marcus) writes:
> Along these lines....
> 
> I'm making dining room tables (large ones), in
> the mission style in red oak.   I'm not yet set
> up for chair production in my shop and would like
> to offer customers chairs in the same style.  
>  I'm **not** looking for Queen Anne, Chippendale,
> etc.  It must be a straight-line simple design,
> ala Mission, Shaker, possibly HeppleWhite....

Sounds like you need to check out Stickley. Gustav Stickley.
He was a furniture designer back in the early portion of this
century who, like the Shakers, et al--only moreso--led a sort
of revolt against the ornate styles that had been prevalent up
to that time. The most expository statement I can make about
Stickly is that he made no attempt to disguise the fact that 
his furniture creations were constructed from plane flat boards.
 
You should be able to find the big book about him and his work
at the public library, or at a bookstore that has a good assortment
of woodworking selections. The book has many detailed measured
drawings. Stickley worked in quartersawn oak. The book is called
THE FURNITURE OF GUSTAV STICKLEY (i think :-).

--danny

-- 
	"Were his solid black square paintings really,
	as the artist claimed, simply neutral, abstract
	compositions devoid of external references and
	meanings?" ***********************************
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: acuff@sumex-aim.stanford.edu (Richard Acuff)
Subject: Re: Water based top coats, paste fillers.
Organization: Stanford University
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 16:59:29 GMT

In article <1992Aug17.205606.28070@scic.intel.com>, hwilson@scic.intel.com (Howard Wilson) writes:

> I am in the process of building a coffee table and end tables for
> my family room using red oak.  I am considering trying out one of
> these newer water based polyurethane top coats (varathane diamond).
> 
> Has anyone used these?
> How do you like them?
> How is the finish compared to their pertroleum based relatives?  
> Can they be applied over oil based stains or paste fillers?

I used Deft Safe and Easy Gloss polyurethane on some oak stair treads
recently.  I used a Deft water-based stain after sanding to 320 grit.  I was
not impressed.  After five coats, with very light sanding between the 1'st
three, the gloss level was nothing like what I'm used to from regular
Varathane, and I had a hell of a time with bubbles, despite trying a number
of different techniques for application.  I used a foam brush.

I don't know if this is a Deft problem or not.  If someone has different
impressions of the Varathane Diamond product, I'd appreciate hearing them.

	-- Rich
From: games@max.u.washington.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re:      Re: Maybe YOU can learn from MY mistake
Date: 21 Aug 92 16:45:14 GMT
Article-I.D.: max.1992Aug21.094514.1

Hopefully you took pictures with a handy polaroid first to make sure that
the insurance adjuster sees the damage at its worst.  This can help make
sure that you get as much money as you are due.  The extra 5 minutes
in water won't hurt anything any more than the hours that they have been
in already, and the potential benifits are very large.

			John.
From: de@moscom.UUCP (David Esan)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Mine's bigger than yours (was: Re: Size of Electrical Panel (was:Workshop wiring;))
Date: 12 Aug 92 15:13:53 GMT
Reply-To: de@moscom.UUCP (David Esan)
Organization: Moscom Corp., Pittsford, NY

In article <1992Aug08.171744.30311@cs.cmu.edu> krumm+@CS.CMU.EDU (John Krumm) writes:
>basement from as far as a block away.  For a while the neighbors
>complained about their lights dimming whenever I was woodworking, so
>I've had to install my own nuclear plant in the garage.  Now nobody
>bothers me any more.

Did you get the GE or the US Nucleonics?

-- 
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 -->     David Esan      de@moscom.com  
 
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: woodworking club in No. NJ?
Reply-To: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 92 14:48:43 GMT
Keywords: club, No. NJ, woodworking

In article <1992Aug12.135359.17762@cbnewsi.cb.att.com> stq@cbnewsi.cb.att.com (scott.t.questad) writes:
>In article <Aug.9.01.48.26.1992.3983@pilot.njin.net>, furr@pilot.njin.net (Grover Furr) writes:
>> 
>> 	I'm looking for a woodworking club in No. NJ. If you know of
>> one, or if you are looking for one, too, post a reply (I know others
>> are interested in this question as well.
>
>I'm interested as well, however, I live near Trenton - Newark/Montclair
>is a decent trip.

I'll throw my hat in the ring, too, but I'm in the New Brunswick area.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | There are very few personal problems which
George Patterson -  | cannot be solved by a suitable application
                    | of high explosive.
                    |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 21 Aug 1992 06:33:38 -0800
Reply-To:     don@biivax.dp.BECKMAN.COM
From:         Don Roberts <DSROBERTS@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM>
Subject:      Re: chair/table
X-To:         WOODWORK%IPFWVM.BITNET@pucc.Princeton.EDU

Chris Lewis writes:
>I think they're simply called "chair-tables".  I believe that they
>originated with the Shakers who made things simple, but with multiple
>functions.  Several of Thomas Moser's books have plans for them.

Although the Sharkers made chair-tables, this type of furniture predates the
Shakers by a bit.  Last year Woodsmith had plans for one in one of their
issues.  If there is interest, I can look it up (I *think* it was woodsmith :-)
						-E. Saliers
   Don Roberts                   Internet:  don@beckman.com
   Beckman Instruments, Inc.     Phone:     714/961-3029
   2500 Harbor Bl. Mailstop X-12 FAX:       714/961-3351
   Fullerton, CA  92634          Disclaimer:  Blame me, not Beckman.
   People are as happy as they decide to be - A. Lincoln
From: smb@ulysses.att.com (Steven Bellovin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Exposed wiring and the NEC.
Date: 16 Aug 92 00:54:22 GMT

In article <3721@ecicrl.ocunix.on.ca>, clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis) writes:
> Of *course* the quote is from the CEC (Canada) instead of the NEC (USA).
> If someone can provide me with a short quote from the NEC similar to the
> above that mandates a different height, I will adjust the FAQ to indicate
> the difference.
> 
> Steven and I did chat about this, but I'm unsure of whether he searched
> for something or not.

I did.  Here's 336-10(b):

	Protection from Physical Damage.  The cable shall be protected
	from physical damage where necessary by conduit, electrical
	metallic tubing, pipe, guard strings, or other means.  Where
	passing through a floor the cable shall be enclosed in rigid metal
	conduit, intermediate metal conduit, electrical metallic tubing,
	or other metal pipe extending at least 6 inches (152 mm) above the
	floor.

As I said in my earlier posting, and as Chris has noted before, the
Canadian codes are, in general, a bit stricter.  But a lot does depend
on the inspector.  The commentary in the NEC Handbook stresses protection
from physical damage:

	For concealed work, nonmetallic-sheathed cable should be installed
	where it is protectged from physical damage that is often caused
	by nails or screws.  Where practical, care shoudl be taken to
	avoid areas where trim, door and window casings, baseboards,
	moldings, etc., are likely to be nailed.  See Section 300-4.

Section 300-4 is the part that specifies that cable run through a joist,
rafter, or other wood framing member be at least 1.25" below the surface.
(Incidentally, that applies to BX, too -- that's an error in the FAQ.)
From: erickson@atlas.cs.nps.navy.mil (David Erickson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: repairing a caned chair
Date: 17 Aug 92 20:31:07 GMT
Reply-To: erickson@taurus.cs.nps.navy.mil (David Erickson)
Organization: Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey CA

In article <01GNOR7V29R88Y4X94@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM> don@biivax.dp.BECKMAN.COM writes:
>Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
>X-To:         WOODWORK%IPFWVM.BITNET@pucc.Princeton.EDU
>
>>Can anyone offer advice on what might be done to fix up an old caned chair?

>I'm faced with a similar problem.  I have some caned seats that have holes in
>them, but I haven't been able to come up with a way to get the old cane out.

I use a long 1/4" socket chisel and cut out a 3-4" piece of the spline at the 
back of the seat, then I lever out the rest.  Frequently it comes out without
a lot of work, but sometimes it takes a lot of cussing.  Be especially
careful not to damage the edge of the groove, and clean out all the broken
pieces of cane and bits of glue.

Buy a piece of machine caning which is about 3" too large on all sides,
boil some water with a little glycerine in it, and dip the caning into
it (it will become soft and pliable), and line it up on the seat.  Then
carefully wedge it into place: start with a wedge in the back, then another
opposite, bending the cane down to fit into the groove.  Work your way
around the seat, pour some white glue into the groove, and install the
spline.  Best way to do that is to start in the back center, work your way
around the seat, use a sharp chisel to cut the spline to length, then
tap it fully into place (I use a hammer and a piece of 1/4" board).

Dave Erickson
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: What grits to buy?
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 92 15:19:37 GMT

In article <1992Aug18.144547.27758@news.eng.convex.com> rmingee@convex.com (Robert Mingee) writes:

>..............  What assortment of sandpaper grits would be good for general
>use?...
>........ or they have another 100 pc assortment (25 each of 80,120,150,220) for
>$30. 

I would recommend that you buy the assortment. I find that I use the
220 most of the time, but it's very nice to have the right grit available
when you need it. A belt lasts a fair amount of time, even under heavy use,
so you will be able to re-order as you use them up. When you get down to
five belts of a given grit, order more of that grit.

Also, save the 220 grit belts when they wear out. They occasionally come
in handy for sanding fine work that you wouldn't ordinarily use a belt
sander for.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | Society calls everything difficult good
                    | and makes everything good difficult.
                    |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: frank@marvin.contex.com (Frank Perdicaro)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: crown moulding
Date: 18 Aug 92 21:58:17 GMT
Organization: Xyvision Design Systems

In article <01GNGMLLSYS00019YW@DUCVAX.AUBURN.EDU> AUIDCC@AUDUCVAX.BITNET writes:
>Crown moulding does not go on the wall at some distance from the
>ceiling, nor is it used to hang pictures.  Crown moulding goes at
>the wall-ceiling juncture.  Picture moulding goes on the wall,
>usually a foot or two below the ceiling (depending on ceiling
>height.  It is used to hang pictures and to visually lower
>the ceiling.
>
>Steve

Gee, there has been a great deal of stuffy discussion here, and I do
not mean to dump on anybody, but there are plenty of examples of crown
moulding that has integrated picture rail.

I have original plaster walls in my house from more than a century
ago.  At the ceiling ( ten feet up ) there is a three piece moulding
that is a proper crown moulding, and has a real picture rail.  All the
wall decoration in my house is held up by these picture rails.

Yes, I have seen it many other ways.  In in the Louvre in Paris, there
is a picture rail seperate from the crown moulding.  In Blenheim
Palace near Oxford, there is an integrated system like mine.  The MFA
in Boston has it both ways ( if my memory serves ) , and the Bowdoin
College Museme of Art has it like the big place in France.

Pardon the bad spelling.

-- 
	 Frank E Perdicaro, Systems Admin, etc.		Xyvision Color Systems
      Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.		101 Edgewater Drive
   inhouse: frank@marvin, x5572				Wakefield MA
outhouse: frank@contex.com, 617-245-4100x5572		018801285
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking