HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: PTFE (Teflon) Additives
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 3 Oct 92 10:35:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> Slick 50 makes some pretty concrete claims -- why can't they be
-> tested?
-> The manufacturer claims that the product has stood up to objective
-> scientific tests.  Why cannot someone comment on the test results, or
-> the rigor with which the tests were done?

 "Hi there, this is Runcibal the Fatuous, interviewing Fast Eddie
Gonzledorfer, proprietor of Eddie's Garage and Tow Service here in
bustling Possum Grape, Arkansas.  Here's Eddie now!"

[grease covered figure looks into camera.]  "Git that CENSORED thing
outa mah face.  Are you from the Labor Department?  Ah got a lawyer."

"Here's a hundred-dollar bill, Eddie.  We've been paid to make an
impartial study on Slick 50 oil additive, and we've selected your fine
establishment as representative of service centers around the country."

 "Y'all ain't f'm aroun' heah, ah yew?  Ah said GIT THAT [censored]
THANG OUTA MAH FACE, [censored]."

 "Eddie, you've been selling Slick 50 and seeing its results for years
now.  Can you tell us anything about the results?  Here's another
hundred dollars."

 [Eddie suddenly catches on, and the bills vanish from Runcibal's
fingers and join the 36 cents in change currently occupying Eddie's
pocket.]  "Wah, SHORE!  Heah, jis' come inna mah offis, an' Ah'll tellya
all 'bout it.  [pulls out a crumpled foil package]  Y'all won't a chaw?"

 [Runcibal shudders]  "No thanks, Eddie.  I'm on the job.  [points to
greasy object on a littered bench]  "What's that, Eddie?"

 "That-there's da camshaf outta ol Miz Crum's Rambler.  It's jes' plain
wore out.  Pore ole car din' run no better'n a three-leggit dawg chasin'
a rabbit."

 Runcibal peers at the camshaft.  "Looks like parts of it are still
shiny."

 "Yip, dem's da berrin' journals.  Dey holly evah weah none."

 "Well, that'll save us some film, anyway.  We'll just take a shot and
crop it."

 Eddie frowns.  "Da vet allus does da shots 'roun heah, an' we don' hold
wit no croppin'."

 "Never mind, Eddie.  Now, would you say Mrs. Crum's car would have
lasted longer if she'd used Slick 50?"

 There's a brief pause before Runcibal remembers to hand Eddie another
bill.  Eddie becomes effusive."

 "Wah, soitanly!  You jist wax that stuff own an' the paint won't never
fade -"

 "You put it in the OIL, Eddie!"

 "-or in the o-il, and yore engine will las' foevah!"

 "Thank you, Eddie!  This is Runcibal the Fatuous, and that's the word
here from Fast Eddie's Garage here in..."
From: bcasper@eos.ncsu.edu (Brian Casper)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: How to loosen the brake assembly when changing pads?
Date: 6 Oct 92 16:00:57 GMT
Reply-To: bcasper@eos.ncsu.edu
Distribution: usa
Organization: North Carolina State University
Originator: bcasper@c00100-100lez.eos.ncsu.edu


hsong@ardour.bellcore.com (G. Hugh Song) writes:
|>This time, I am trying to change the front disc pads.  Again, I managed
|>to pull out the two pins which hold the pads and other assembly.  However,
|>the left-over pressure which presses the pads towards the rotor is still
|>too great that I cannot pull the pads out.  If I managed to pull out the
|>old pads, I do not think I can install the new thick pads in place.
|>There must be a way to loosen the pressure from the brake system.

The method I use is to get myself a small block of wood (a 6" piece of 1x2)
and a large C-clamp.  Put the wood against the piston and stick the
C-clamp over it all so that as you tighten the screw on the C-clamp, the
screw pushes the piston back into the caliper.  The mechanical advantage
offered by the C-clamp is amazing...  You will want to open the cap on your
fluid reservior before you get started so that there will not be any pressure
on the other side of the system to push the piston back out.
-- 
-- 
Brian Casper                |   "I like to study psychologists.  It gives
bcasper@eos.ncsu.edu        |    good insight into what rats are thinking."
  Pinball Consultant        |     -  Dr. Oscar Wesler
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: DOHC on a V8 possible?
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 28 Sep 92 13:44:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> Dual overhead cam,  multi valve engines have been around for over
-> half a century.  It amazes me that anyone still tries to fool the
-> public with old pushrod 2 valve heads.

 For most purposes, pushrod 2-valve heads do just fine.  Doubling the
number of valves, doubling or quadrupling the number of cams, and
lengthening the cam chain by two to five feet adds weight, friction, and
complexity, all to the detriment of price and (more important)
reliability.  Every time one of those wonder motors upgefucks under
warranty, the money to repair it comes right out of the manufacturer's
profit margin.

 Since Americans generally refuse to perform regular maintenance on
their vehicles, you still need to keep some sort of automatic valve lash
adjustment system, a cam chain tensioner device, and so forth.

 It isn't like buying a Ferrari or Lamborghini, where "warranty" is a
meaningless word and you expect to pay $200/hr for maintenance.  You
now have Eddie-Bob and the dropouts at the local Detroit Iron dealership
poking around in there...


 Overhead cams are nice, but once you add rockers and hydraulic lash
adjusters the optimal solution is to ditch that long whippy chain and
its service problems and go to ten bucks' worth of pushrods.
From: qinyi@uk.ac.man.cs (Yi Qin (BCW PhD))
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: What's wrong with this? (electric problem!?)
Date: 30 Sep 92 20:01:26 GMT
Organization: University of Manchester, UK


I have suffered from this for quite some time, but do know the cause.

When the car (Nissan Micra 1.0GLi, 1984) runs hot and settles to its normal
idle speed, if now I turn on the headlights (not the main beam), the
idle speed will drop considerably so that the car starts shuddering.
I thought the idle speed might be too low and turned it a bit higher.
There is still the change in idle speed when I turn on the headlights
but the idle speed doesn't drop that low. Later when I had the 
anual vehicle test (MOT in UK), the garageman failed it saying the
idle speed is too high. Now I have to turn it back to the original
idle speed and have to suffer from the very uncomfortable shuddering each
time downing the clutch. If the radiator fan, rear window heater or
the ventilating fan are on, it looks the engine is to cut out, but
just not.

The alternator is to the original specification and should be powerful
enough to generate enough electric power for the car. So what can
be wrong? Any suggestions and wild guess are welcome.

Thanks

Yi Qin
qinyi@cs.man.ac.uk
Organization: Sophomore, Physics, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 12:26:59 -0400 
From: Stephen James Kendrish <sk4k+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: WIDER Wheels


Let's get this straight.  The subject says Wider Wheels, not Winter
Wheels.  I don't see a connection, do you?  If someone wants to ask a
question, don't reply to another question.  I posted my question to get
an answer not another question.  Richard Banks must be a politician.

Let me try again: 

       After serious consideration and budgeting, I've decided to
install a set of 17 x 9.5 wheels on my '87 Trans Am.  Now, after
deciding, I need to know exactly how to do this.  I know it can be done
because I've seen them on late model Camaros in a few magazines.  I
figure that the rear wheels shouldn't be a problem.  The front wheels,
however, are where the problem will be.  One magazine gave a vague
description of a Camaro saying something about a ten millimeter offset. 
I've also heard stuff about removing half a coil from the front springs
and removing the fender flares.  If anyone out there has done this to
their Firebird or Camaro, please tell me how its done.  For all I know,
there might even be a conversion kit out there right under my my nose
(Herb Adams or something).  Any input would be well appreciated.

Thanks

Steve
From: zhang+@pitt.edu (Hong N Zhang)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: 86 Nissan Sentra - HELP!
Date: 4 Oct 92 23:07:10 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Pittsburgh


I have a 86 Nissan  Sentra with 96000 miles. It stalled after passed a
traffic light and it won't start again. The starter turns but the engin
just won't run. I removed the distributor cap and found that the roter
did not even move when trying to start the car. Does this mean the timing
belt is broken? It's difficult to remove the timing belt cover so I can't
see it. If it is the timing belt, would that cause any other troubles
like those I often heard with Honda cars? Is it difficult to change the
timing belt on Sentra? Will a ordinary garage be capable of doing it?

Thanks in advance.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: 351M
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 21:29:35 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 A leaking intake manifold gasket or a corroded intake manifold face is a 
potential culprit. Especially with aluminum intakes, poor maintenance can
lead to corrosion due to the galvanic couple present. The aluminum gets
chowed. Are the sealing surfaces on the intake-to-head surface 
clean-n-shiny or nasty? Also inspect the underside of the intake for
signs of a pinhole leak. If none of the above look likely there's the
possibility of a crack in the water jacket down in the block (joy).
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
From: system@hale.cts.com (System Administration)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: PTFE (Teflon) Additives
Date: 27 Sep 92 01:41:59 GMT
Organization: Hale Telecommunications San Diego CA

I'm sure this must have been discussed somewhere before, but I didn't see 
it...

What is the general informed attitude towards Teflon (A registered 
trademark of the DuPont Corperation, DuPont is a registered trademard of 
the DuPont Corperation also.  I bet Trademarks has been trademarked 
somewhere also, but....) additives?

First, there were the homebrewers who added it to thier engines (various 
two strokes from what I have been told, like the old McCullogh 101's),
then commercial formulations have surfaces, like Slick50 (R) and now
it's being blended with synthetic oils.

The advertised pros are the increased protection they are suppose to give 
the engine, but what are the cons?


             -=-  System Administrator  system@hale.cts.com  -=-
                      Hale Telecommunications, San Diego
From: hhtra@usho21.hou281.chevron.com (T.M.Haddock)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Rear Seat Removal
Date: 30 Sep 92 23:33:47 GMT
Organization: Chevron


 I'm wanting to remove the rear seat and read deck panel
 of a '92 Dodge Spirit.  It's the fixed kind, not fold down.

 I've tried Haney's (sp?) and Chilton's manuals but they
 seem more "mechanically" minded.

 Does anyone know of some other manuals (illustrated?) that
 would show how or can someone send me a quick how-to?

 Thanks in advance.

 TRAVIS
From: jimv@hienergy.Eng.Sun.COM (Jim Vienneau  - Sun Microsystems)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: What is in "engine flush"?
Date: 30 Sep 1992 20:43:18 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Mt. View, Ca.
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: hienergy.east.sun.com
Keywords: oil flush kerosene break-in

In article <1992Sep29.235308.4694@javelin.sim.es.com> gold@imp.sim.es.com (Bruce Gold) writes:
>In article <1992Sep29.154629.10387@gvl.unisys.com>, (Pete Rossi) writes:
>|> What is in this stuff sold in 1 quart cans for $1.98 labeled as "engine flush"?
>|> 
>|> I had heard that it is similar to kerosene.  Could a quart of kerosene
>|> (costing about 25 cents vs. $1.98) be used instead?
>|> 
Beware, I used kerosene on a sludged-up Buick V6 once (one quart in 3 qts
of oil). It loosened up the sludge which promptly plugged the oil pickup
screen which eventually seized the engine. I don't think I'll be trying
that home remedy again...



--
Jim Vienneau, Sun Microsystems Inc - Billerica, MA
Email: jvienneau@east.sun.com   Amateur Radio: WB1B
Good old Ma Bell (well old anyway): (508)671-0372
From: ldillard@digi.lonestar.org (Lawrence Dillard)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure Relief Valve ?
Keywords: oil pressure
Date: 2 Oct 92 14:55:26 GMT
Organization: DSC Communications Corp, Plano, TX

In article <1992Oct2.013937.3948@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU> xh2v@fermi.clas.Virginia.EDU (Xiaojun  Huang) writes:
>
>My 84 civic was working smoothly until yesterday morning.
>
>It had been very cold(about 40 at night) and raining for a couple of days
>Yesterday when I started my car I found that it started to give out blue
>smoke, a lot of smoke. then I checked up the engine oil and found almost
>drained.
>
>I was told that it might be due to the worn out of a rubber piece inside
>the cylinder which seperates the oil from the combustion chamber(Gasket).
>Does anyone know what are the most probable causes of that?
>Are there any simple ways to tell(I mean without going to the mechanics)?
>
>Any help will be greatly appreciated.
>
>-Trent

--
 L.T. Dillard                         ldillard@digi.lonestar.org
 DSC Communications Corporation
 1000 Coit Rd, MS 120, Plano Tx 75075
-- 
--
 L.T. Dillard                         ldillard@digi.lonestar.org
 DSC Communications Corporation
 1000 Coit Rd, MS 120, Plano Tx 75075
From: michaeln@hpcvnb.CV.HP.COM (Mike_Nason)
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 92 04:59:23 PDT
Subject: Re: won't run on uphill
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Corvallis, Oregon
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

   I'd find another gas station and change the fuel filter.
              mike
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: What is the air pump used for?
Date: 6 Oct 92 19:41:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> Something that has been on my mind is the use of the air pump.
-> What is it's purpose?

 According to GM, it promotes afterburn of unburned hydrocarbons.
Oddly, the '92 Corvette switched from a standard belt-driven mechanical
pump to an electric pump.  The air pump only runs for a minute or two,
and only on cold start.  Apparently it's only for when the engine is in
cold-start mode and running rich - according to the diagrams, it never
comes on after startup.  Weird.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 351M
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 28 Sep 92 21:14:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> A leaking intake manifold gasket or a corroded intake manifold face
-> is a potential culprit. Especially with aluminum intakes, poor

 This guy's problem isn't there.  The Clevelands have absolutely dry
intake manifolds - they run the water through the head gasket and a
passage over the timing chain.  The Clevelands were oddities, alright.
From: bhhardy@cs.utk.edu (Barbara Hardy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Carb questions
Date: 28 Sep 92 18:24:50 GMT
Organization: Computer Science Dept, University of Tennessee, Knoxville
Keywords: junkyards, prices

Hi all -

I've got an 85 Dodge Omni with 112K (really!) and a carb that I
rebuilt recently. It doesn't run a whole lot better now, and I am sure
that there are some adjustments that I did incorrectly. THe idle needs
adjusting but I just can't bring myself to do it yet. (Requires enough
work so that I am still to sick of thinking about it to do it :)

Anyway, I talked to my local Western Auto place the other day about
prices for a new or remanufactured carb (thisis becuase I was told a
long time ago by a mechanic I trust very much that the carb was pretty
shot and that a rebuilt one would probably not do me much good - best
to go for a new one). Anyway, I was shocked to find out that my carb,
a 5660 Holley, double barrel, (6550..? I'd have to look again) would
cost, as a reman., including the tradein of MY card, about 500 bucks!


So my questions are: what about a junkyard? Surely I could find a
totaled something that would fit and I could yank it off that? Also,
what is the difference between a "remanufactured" carb and a "rebuilt"
carb? I asked my friendly Western Auto man and he said that there was
a difference but couldn't explain what that was. I guess I was just
supposed to accept his word for it. :) He mumbled something about
jets, and I popointed out that you get new jets in kits, and what
could possibly be the difference... anyway, I am open to explanations!

Finally, the car occasionally dies while idling, and the idle is
erratic. I am guessing that thisis carb trouble? 

Any hints appreciated!


Barbara


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: abyazi@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (farhad.abyazi)
Subject: Help with '87 Mazda B2600
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 10:56:51 GMT
Followup-To: abyazi@cbnewsl.att.com
Keywords: B2600, Mazda


Last Saturday I bought a red 1987 Mazda B2600 4-cyl. (2.6L) pickup truck with 
77K miles. 

I have a couple of questions for those of you who have a similar truck and/or 
some experience with carburetor adjustments.

Upon cold start, it used to run right at 2100 RPM for about 4-5 min. or until 
fully warmed up. If I pushed the pedal in to disengage the choke, it will go
up to 2300 RPM. The more I tried, the higher it went all the way up to like
2900 or so. However after it was warmed up, it would run at 800 RPM constantly.

I called the dealer and described the cold start situation (which wasn't really
that bad). They made some adjustments! This morning the choke didn't come on
at all, it ran extremely poor until it warmed up. Then it runs at 1500 RPM 
most of the time. If I turn off the headlights, it may eventually drop to 800 
RPM, but then it will start to race to 1400 or so, then it will slowly drop to 
550 and up to 1400 .......

Please help! Any general comment about this type of trucks and/or help on 
the adjustments is appreciated.


Thank You
F. Abyazi


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: atovorni@engr.UVic.CA (Andreas  Tovornik)
Subject: Re: Swapping Differential
Reply-To: atovorni@engr.UVic.CA
Organization: University of Victoria, Victoria, BC, Canada
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 92 02:35:33 GMT

In article 2700121@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com, wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii) writes:
>In <1992Sep16.203255.16224@mlb.semi.harris.com> James W. Swonger writes:
>
>> Now, I calculate that pulling a 4500lb trailer up a 10% grade at 60MPH
>>takes about 75HP, not counting added drag on the trailer, etc.. If your
>>305 can't make at least 150HP, that's pretty lame. Perhaps your engine
>>needs some attention. Or an early-'70s 350 swapped in... 
>
>Many of those GM 305's are only rated at 145 hp at best.  It IS pretty sad...
  
AT BEST??

How come mine rates 215 hp SAE NET? Your average 305 rates about 170 hp
with TBI. The TPI version in my '87 Firebird is rated at 215. GM has a dual
exhaust kit with two catalytic converters which boosts that figure to about
230-235 SAE NET.

I have never heard of a 305 rated at 145 hp. The two-barrel early eighties
267 was rated at about 145.

I think you are confusing the factory horsepower rating with the true output.
My '74 Monte Carlo's 350 had a rating of about 160. This engine had 300 000
miles of abuse on it. It drank two quarts of oil a week, the cam lobes were
worn down, and top speed was 70 Mph at that point. The true horsepower was
likely less than 100. It was rated at 160 but the tue output may have been half 
that.

Andy.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: koziarzw@lonex.rl.af.mil (Walter Koziarz)
Subject: Re: Threshold braking (was Re: "tank" superchargers)
Organization: RL
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 92 22:07:52 GMT

In article <1992Sep19.191017.8225@cabot.balltown.cma.COM> welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty) writes:

>first of all, there is no practical difference in wear and tear on
>your car between gently braking from say, 60 to 30, and threshold
>braking from 60 to 30.  you may discover whether or not your car's
>brakes tend to fade in hard stops, but knowing at what point fade happens
>is useful knowledge too.

>i know somebody is going to jump on me for saying that there is no
>difference, but consider -- brakes convert forward motion into heat;
>on a given trip, the only sure way to reduce wear and tear on the brakes
>is to convert less motion into heat -- either by discarding all the random
>taps on the brakes that so many drivers seem to love, or by driving
>slower.  braking earlier and lighter doesn't change _anything_ except
>the distance over which you are converting forward motion into heat;
>if you are pressing the braking system to its limit (usually only happens
>at race tracks), this could be meaningful, but on the street, no, it isn't.


Richard, I'm truly appalled!  While you are correct in asserting that the
quantity of *HEAT* converted will be the same, the same heat be converted
in less time will create a greater temperature.  Since it has been noted
that temperature is the enemy of friction-materials, how can you possibly
assert that 'wear and tear' will be unchanged?

Is this more material from references that defy reality (i.e. disk brakes
will *always* outperform drums -- counter-example *any* tractor trailer)?

Walt K.


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ronwill@sierra.sim.es.com (Ron Williams)
Subject: Oil return valve
Reply-To: ronwill@sierra.sim.es.com (Ron Williams)
Organization: Evans & Sutherland Computer Corp., Salt Lake City, UT
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 14:22:41 GMT

Do engines have some kind of valve which stops oil returning to the 
oil pan after the engine has been turned off?

The reason I ask is because if I drive my vehicle a short distance 
(the engine hasn't had time to warm up), the engine will knock briefly
the *next* time I start it.  It is as if the oil has all drained out of the
engine.  However, if the engine has plenty of time to get warm, the 
*next* time I start it, there in no knocking.  These symptoms make me
think there is a valve in there that gets stuck open when the engine hasn't 
fully warmed up thus allowing the oil to drain out of the engine, but closes 
properly when the engine gets warm thus keeping oil in the engine.

The vehicle is an '87 Bronco II, 2.9L engine, about 47,000 miles.  I've had 
it to the dealer and they said the oil pump is fine.  I've also changed 
the oil filter (thinking it may have something to do with it), but that 
also made no difference.  Any ideas?
-- 
Ron Williams
ronwill@sierra.sim.es.com
Evans & Sutherland Computer Corp.
Salt Lake City, UT
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: atovorni@engr.UVic.CA (Andreas  Tovornik)
Subject: Re: Were are the springs ?
Reply-To: atovorni@engr.UVic.CA
Organization: University of Victoria, Victoria, BC, Canada
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 92 19:00:56 GMT

In article 7750187@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM, bruno@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Bruno Melli) writes:
>I was looking at the front suspension on a current model toyota 4runner
>and couldn't see springs anywhere.
>Anybody cares to explain how that suspension works, 
>or where the springs are hidden ?

 I think your Toy uses torsion bars instead of springs, but I'm not sure.

Andy.

PLEASE IGNORE MY OBVIOUS IGNORANCE.