HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: stantz@sgi.com (Mark Stantz)
Subject: Re: california/indian reservation ACES
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc.
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 23:58:00 GMT

In article <V7ymwB1w165w@netlink.cts.com> surf@netlink.cts.com (Tony Rosa) writes:
> you 
> have three betting lines.  The first is usually a set $5 bet (plus 50 
> cents to the house, that's their profit) on the second line you may bet 
> 10 to 25 dollars and the third 25 to fifty dollars ( these are 
> approximations and vary depending where you are).  

	Are you paying a flat .50 vig or a 10% vig per hand?  If you choose
to place bets on the second and/or third lines, must you pay the house for
that privilege as well?  

> A
> couple of days later I brought a friend up to try a thing or two.  Since 
> you are playing against the other players and not the dealer, you can 
> really read players reactions to their hands and guestimate what they 
> have, this along with glances of other cards give you a good idea of 
> where you stand.  With two players sitting approximately three chairs 
> apart on of you will usually be the last to play your cards and you can 
> signal as to what you have (ie if you have 20 and your partner, the last 
> person to be dealt has a 19 why wouldn't he want to hit,  If you are both 
> betting the same lines?)  

	Because if the other players see him making crazy plays like hitting 
19, they might figure out that there's collusion afoot, and beat the crap
out of both you in the parking lot?

	I'd be interested in seeing some discussion about what kind of 
advantage can be gained over other players via collusion in poker.  With
two players exchanging signals?  With three?  With four?  How does this
affect the teams overall chances of coming out ahead?  What are the risks,
both legal and practical?  

	I'm a poker virgin, and only understand about half the discussion
that goes on in this group, so go easy...

	-Mark
From: jacob@ocf.berkeley.edu (Jacob Jin)
Newsgroups: rec.gambling
Subject: Re: hold'em trivia
Date: 25 Dec 1992 02:02:26 GMT
Organization: U.C. Berkeley Open Computing Facility
NNTP-Posting-Host: tornado.berkeley.edu

In article <Bzs6Mt.AFp@fs7.ece.cmu.edu> jka@ece.cmu.edu (Jay Adams) writes:
>
>> If you want to make a straight in hold'em, what are the best two cards
>> to start with?  I was analyzing starting hands and this question came
>> up because the numbers I was getting ran counter to my intuition.  In
>> fact, I was pretty sure I had found a bug.
>> 
>> I thought that the best hand would be something like 87, giving you
>> plenty of room in both directions to fill the straight.  But 65 and T9
>> are marginally better, and surprisingly, 54 and JT are better still.
>> This last result is what astonished me.  I had to work the combinatorics
>> by hand before I believed it.
>
>Yep.  The intuitive answer is that 87, 9T, and TJ (the same goes for
>67, and 56) each have the same probability of completing a straight
>involving the two hole cards.  The only difference is the chance of
>getting a straight that doesn't involve the hole cards--that's where
>TJ (and 56) are better than the others.  And, of course, with JQ you
>reduce your chances of getting a straight that uses your hole cards.
>




In Doyle Brunson's book, he points out that if you make a straight
with JT, you WILL have the nut straight. There is no such thing
as making the ugly end of the straight with JT. 

Another sort of related question for rec.gamblers: If someone
raises preflop under the gun(assuming this someone is a half
solid player at least) and a lot of people call, I will often
call with medium or small suited connectors. At least, I'll
be more inclined to call with them than, say, KJ. Anyway. The
question is, how do we all feel about playing 98 suited
in such conditions? The reason I ask is because AK is the 
most likely preflopundergun pump hand. And a 10-J-Q on the
board will get you in trouble. Are these factors important
enough to take under consideration? Do we just take caution
in this instance? Or do we still play fast and hope the
person has a set, AQ, or overpair?  Do we not play the
hand at all, even if there are 5+ callers(not a rare
event at the Oaks Club)? 

So back to the original question. A lot of hands will
make 4 different straights. And JT will make the nut
straight every time. But no straight will put the table
on tilt as quickly as one made with 4-8 offsuit. And  
tiltage is a very powerful weapon. Think about it.





Newsgroups: rec.gambling
From: messiah@nevada.edu (mw)
Subject: Re: hold'em trivia
Organization: University of Nevada System Computing Services
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 1992 23:32:39 GMT

In article <Bzs6Mt.AFp@fs7.ece.cmu.edu> jka@ece.cmu.edu (Jay Adams) writes:

>> If you want to make a straight in hold'em, what are the best two cards
>> to start with?  

>> I thought that the best hand would be something like 87, giving you
>> plenty of room in both directions to fill the straight.  But 65 and T9
>> are marginally better, and surprisingly, 54 and JT are better still.

>Yep.  The intuitive answer is that 87, 9T, and TJ (the same goes for
>67, and 56) each have the same probability of completing a straight
>involving the two hole cards.  The only difference is the chance of
>getting a straight that doesn't involve the hole cards--that's where
>TJ (and 56) are better than the others.  And, of course, with JQ you
>reduce your chances of getting a straight that uses your hole cards.

>Interesting...
>- Jay

OK from the % viewpoint the above mentioned info make sense but I would
venture to say that a hands like JT are MUCH better than 65 because you
are more likely to get action when you flop the nuts. Example: hold (J T)
and FLOP (A K Q) means that you will get action from all the overcards,
whereas holding (5 6) and flopping (4 3 2) would NOT get nearly the same 
amount of enthousiasm out of one's opponents if one came out betting.

The most important thing is not neccessarily to make the hand but to get
the action. Using that criterion, (Q J) might still be as good as (J T) 
even if the chances of making the hand are reduced.

 
         _/     _/ _/_/_/_/ _/_/_/_/ _/_/_/_/ _/_/_/_/ 
       _/_/ _/_/ _/    _/ _/    _/ _/       _/    _/
     _/  _/ _/ _/_/_/_/ _/_/_/   _/       _/    _/   
   _/     _/ _/    _/ _/    _/ _/       _/    _/        |\     /|
 _/     _/ _/    _/ _/    _/ _/_/_/_/ _/_/_/_/          | ``''' |
                                                        \(O) (O)/
           messiah@redrock.nevada.edu                 __  \   /  __
 ----------------------------------------------------oooO--(_)--Oooo--
From: oconnor@i88.isc.com (Tom O'Connor(Genesis Project))
Subject: Re: Good Rules In Chicago
Organization: INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation, Naperville, IL
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1992 21:56:59 GMT

> weinstoc@sei.cmu.edu (Chuck Weinstock) writes
>
>During my recent visit to my folks in the Chicago area I came across some
>information about local "Las Vegas Nights".  These gambling events happen
>virtually every night, somewhere in the Chicago area.  They are charity
>events, with the profits going to the sponsoring organization.  The games I'm
>describing are run by an organization called Rockford Casino Players.  They
>make their money by renting equipment and operating the games for the
>charitys.

>Blackjack: single deck and shoe games.  Standard rules plus DOA, DAS, LSR.
>       Limits: $3 to $10.  One catch: when you double down your total bet
>       can't exceed $10 (that is, if you've already bet $10 on the hand
>       you can't double down).  On the otherhand, split hands are considered
>       separate hands, each of which can go up to $10.  Another catch: they
>       don't have any 50 cent chips, so in order to get proper payoff on a
>       blackjack, bets have to be even amounts.

Maybe Chuck found something good, but in all the "Vegas" nights I've
been to around here, the big problem with the blackjack games is that
the dealer WINS on a push.  The experts can give the exact % this costs
the player, but I'm sure it is significant.  I've never seen a craps game
at a Vegas night, so maybe these are not run by the group Chuck mentioned.
From: emory!wa4mei!chrise@gatech.edu (Chris England)
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: .380 Bersa Quality
Date: 29 Dec 92 01:49:37 GMT
Organization: Amateur Radio Gateway WA4MEI, Chamblee, GA


I recently purchased/traded for a .380 Bersa Auto, at one of the local 
gun shows.  I felt that I got a good deal on it, and was wondering if
anyone had any comments on it.  

I've had it at the range twice now, and am dually impressed by the 
accuracy, and reliability.   I hav'nt been able to jam it just yet. 

Also, if anyone has any info on where/from whom I can purchase after-
market grips, etc. (for the above) it would be greatly appreciated.

Let's also open a discussion about the relative power of .380's
I've punched paper with mine, but hav'nt put it to any ballistics
tests yet.  Any ballistics experiences, or advice on retail ammo
(grain, etc.) would also be greatly appreciated.

-- chris
-- 
<> Chris England               ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
<> Brock Control Systems      <> uucp: ...!gatech!emory!bcs800!chrise         <>
<> Atlanta, Georgia           <> internet: chrise%bcs800.uucp@mathcs.emory.edu<>
<> tel: +800 444 3070         <> USPA B-14940, Renegade 9 cell                <>
From: hes@unity.ncsu.edu (Henry E. Schaffer)
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: Re: Silver Soldering
Date: 22 Dec 92 15:05:38 GMT
Organization: North Carolina State University

In article <1992Dec21.204825.4581@cbfsb.cb.att.com> osan@cbnewsb.cb.att.com (Mr. X) writes:
#	...  The critical question is melting point.  You COULD
#	hard solder this, but that requires temperatures in the neighborhood
#	of 1400 degree F.  To appyly this heat to a muzzle would draw the 
#	temper out of the steel and your barrel would burst in short order.

  Brownells has one high silver content solder "Silvaloy 355 Silver
Solder" which is "56% silver; Cadmium-Free" and melts at 1145 F, flows
at 1205 F.  "Has the lowest flow temperature, best wetting and best flow
characteristics of any cadmium-free, high silver-content, commercial
silver solder."  (Note that being cadmium free makes it less
dangerous to health.)

  They also have a low silver (4% silver/96% tin) solder which flows 
at 475 F.  "Provides 14,000 to 25,000 PSI strength."  (The strength of
the high-silver solder isn't given.  Does anyone know?)
#
#	The soft, plumbers solder melts around 400-450 degrees, approx. This
                  ^^^^^^^^
  Is this silver?  The plumbers solder I know about is lead/tin and
would be considered "soft solder".

  A silver bearing solder I use is an air conditioning 
supply, and is 15% silver.  It melts at 275 F (that's what the box
says - I'm amazed at that!) and is for brazing copper, brass and
bronze.  It appears to be a proprietary alloy which is light copper
colored.

  I also have long used "TIX" solder for small jobs which need more
strength than soft solder.  It is specified to melt at 275F and to
have a 4,000 psi bond strength.

#	would be similar to using lead solder except that the silver solder
#	is less toxic and a bit tougher.   ...

  Jewelers use an array of silver solders with different melting
points so that as work progresses they can use lower temp solder
and avoid melting already soldered joints.  Here is a progressions
of 4 such (all cadmium free):

Name            %silver   Melting Pt.  Flow Pt.
Extra-Easy       56        1145F        1207F
Easy             65        1240         1325
Medium           70        1275         1360
Hard             75        1365         1450

Sterling Silver  92.5      1434         1655
.999 Fine Silver 99.9                   1761

--henry schaffer
From: efk00@cd.amdahl.com (Eddie Kieger)
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: Re: AMT Longslide?  Any good?
Date: 22 Dec 92 18:45:59 GMT
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA


In article <1992Dec21.190226.4408@convex.com>, tighe@convex.COM (Mike
Tighe) writes:
#ems@michael.apple.com (E. Michael Smith) writes:
#
##2 questions:  Is it any good?  (AMT .45 1911s in general...)
##and ... Does the long slide make the gun unbalanced in any way?
#
#I used to own an AMT Hardballer. The happiest day I had with it was the
#day
#I sold it. It looked great, but it jammed constantly. I sent letters to
#the
#company asking some simple questions, and never received any replies.
#I
#would never own an AMT product again.

Well, this is just the opposite from my experience with MY hardballer. 
Great trigger, feeds anything (including lead semi wadcutters) 
flawlessly. The adjustable rear sight is a little cheap, but whadda ya 
want for the money?? It works OK for me, and the zero doesn't change, 
so it's servicable.

Maybe the reason Mike couldn't get any action on the letters is because 
AMT has reorg'ed & moved a couple times, and they may not have gotten 
his letters?? Just a speculation..........

Later, Eddie

Don't tread on me..........................................I bite
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Eddie Kieger                             efk00@cd.amdahl.com 
For Pay:      System Design Engineer     Amdahl Corp.
              Bringing you better mainframe computers
For Fun:      "River Rat"                SBU-XI SPECWARGRU1 (USNR)
              Bringing hellfire and brimstone to a river near you!
From: hollombe@polymath.tti.com (The Polymath)
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: Re: More on dry firing
Date: 22 Dec 92 00:01:12 GMT
Organization: The Cat Factory

In article <1992Dec16.075612.29021@netcom.com> pauly@netcom.com (Paul Yoshimune) writes:
}In article <1992Dec16.014824.12112@ttinews.tti.com> hollombe@polymath.tti.com (The Polymath) writes:
}#Well, _I'm_ going to use the decocker lever as God and SIG intended, rules
}#or no rules.
}#
}#Harumph! (-:
}#
}#(Seriously, would this be a rules violation?  Sounds pretty silly, if so).
}
}Actually, not silly at all.  The point of "show clear, hammer down, holster"
}is to make the gun safe.  Showing clear makes sure there is no round in the
}chamber.  Hammer down (using the trigger) makes *damn* sure there is no round
}in the chamber.  Note that even though the RO checks the chamber, if you drop
}the hammer and it goes bang, you get DQ'd.
}
}When using the decocker, you nullify the safety check the hammer drop is 
}intended for.  By USPSA (and IPSC, I believe) rules, the hammer *must* drop
}by function of the trigger.

~sigh~ I _really_ should know better by now.  My thanks to all who
explained and/or chastised (and rightly so).

Nothing in the SIG manual says I shouldn't dry fire, but nothing says it's
ok, either.  Would chambering a snap-cap and dropping the hammer on that
satisfy the requirement?  I prefer to play safe with anything that
expensive.

The Polymath (aka: Jerry Hollombe, M.A., CDP, aka: hollombe@polymath.tti.com)
Head Robot Wrangler at Citicorp                Do not meddle in the affairs of
3100 Ocean Park Blvd.   (310) 450-9111, x2483  dragons, for you are crunchy
Santa Monica, CA  90405                        and go well with ketchup.
From: erudnick@pica.army.mil (FSAC-SID)
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: Re: M1911 operation
Date: 22 Dec 92 00:00:34 GMT


Barry Needham writes:
##I just acquired a Polish VIS ("Radom") pistol. It has very similar lines
[deleted]
#Let me get this right...  A single action 1911 clone, in a minor caliber, that
#has a decocker but no manual safety.  Must have been made in Poland :-)

The VIS/Radom is not a clone. Think of it more as an evolutionary development,
like the High Power. By "minor caliber" I presume you are using an IPSC/Luddite
convention, which may be dismissed out of hand.

As to a manual safety, that may be fine for games like IPSC, but the
designers of the VIS thought it unnecessary at best and dangerous at worst
on a combat pistol. The grip safety provides sufficient operational
safety, like the trigger safety lever on a Glock. Note that the Tokarev
has no manual safety either in its original form.

The decocker was a requirement for safing the pistol with one hand following
use. It's easy to cock the hammer manually, but decocking is not easy with
one hand (hence my original posting).

As to the "made in Poland" comment, the Germans acquired the tooling for
the VIS following the invasion, and liked the design so much that they
produced over 300,000 of them, including some at Steyr, with the only
changes being made for ease of production. Let me guess - they were stupid
too, right?


Ed Rudnicki     erudnick@pica.army.mil     All disclaimers apply
Protect the Second Amendment - boycott Ruger products
Geordi: "...it's like the laws of physics went right out the
window." Q: "And why shouldn't they? They're so inconvenient."
From: slv4b@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: Slug Compatible?
Date: 2 Jan 93 14:17:54 GMT
Organization: Utah State University


     I have a Remington 870 express shotgun which uses threaded choke tubes
(Remchoke).  My question is:  Can I safely fire slugs from this gun with
modified or full choke tube in, or do I need to purchase a special tube
designed specifically for slugs?
     I'm fairly clueless here, so any help would be really appreciated.

                               Thanks,

                               Lance Robinson
From: cccbbs!bill.preuss@uceng.uc.EDU (Bill Preuss)
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: RE ARMOR PIERCING AMMO
Date: 31 Dec 92 16:36:40 GMT
Organization: Cincinnati Computer Connection BBS - Cincinnati, OH - 513-752-8248

My original question was to find out where I could get information on
armor piercing pistol ammo.  Two people replied say that armor piercing
pistol ammo was illegal.  Well, not quite true.  One can with the proper
license manufacture, import and sell armor piercing ammo.  Now to whom
you sell it to is restricted though.  I have a "rider" or letter
with my FFL which allows me to "experiment" with AP ammo.  Took me 6
months, letters and phone calls, but I did get it.  Since then I have
been in contact with IMI and the US Army (which so far are not
interseted in my AP pistol ammo)  Two of the local law enforcement
agencies have tried them and were impressed, but were concerned about
over penetration.  If any one has any information on AP ammo (pistol or
rifle) I would appreciate it.  Thanks.
Bill Preuss
From: gt6511a@prism.gatech.edu (COCHRANE,JAMES SHAPLEIGH)
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: re: Travel with a firearm
Date: 3 Jan 93 22:59:46 GMT
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology



    Someone posted that they believe Alabama completely prohibits handgun carry.
Not so.  The only legal handgun carry in Alabama is concealed with a permit.  
This permit is required for carry in a vehicle.  Words from the license:  "License to (CARRY A REVOLVER OR PISTOL CONCEALED ON THE PERSON) or (CARRY A REVOLVER
OR PISTOL IN A VEHICLE) is hereby granted.... "  The license if valid for 1 
year, and costs $10 (up from $5 last year).  The license is valid for the entire



state, although a county license is available.  They are issued by the county of residence, but I don't know about non-resident permits.




James
From:  (MJ)
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: Re: Loading data accuracy?
Date: 31 Dec 92 16:36:31 GMT



# I've recently started handloading .40 S&W.  I have three sources of loading
# data:
# 
# The Lyman data consitantly presents lower starting and maximum loads than the
# Accurate Arms No. 5 data: to the point where the maximum load in the Lyman book is close to (or even below) the starting load in the Accurate Arms guide.
# 
# The Lee data sheet shows what appear to be starting loads only, and usually 
# falls in between the two.  
#   But *whose* numbers should I pay attention to?
# 
# (I've developed what I think is a good plinking load, which should be under
#  both Lyman and AA maximums... 7.4 grains of AA#5 with a 155 Rainier.  Now,
# I'd like to work up a Major load, but I don't know which guide to follow.)

My experience with the Accurate Arms manual is that it does have some hot
maybe too hot loads.  I have also found some velocity misprints.  I believe
my Lyman manual is a version older than yours (46th??) and it doesn't list
AA powders.  My Lyman manual is also "hot".  From what I can tell all of
the latest manuals have gotten "cooler".  

I believe the best thing a reloader can do is by a chronograph.  I own 2
Chronys and at around $75 a peice, mail order, they are a bargain.  I've
tested them in series with a few other chronographs, one was even a +$300
Oehler 35P and it was right there with them.  If I don't have any trusted
data on a particular powder/bullet/gun combo, I pick up a 20 round box of
the closest factory load and chronograph it.  That tells me about what my
particular gun will do.  I can then carefully work up a load to that
approximate velocity while watching for signs of extreme pressure.  If you
can't get there without pressure signs maybe another powder should be
tried.

You mentioned "Major load".  I'm assuming IPSC 175.  To do this safely in
the .40 S&W and without risk of coming in Minor after a match, you really
need access to a chronograph.  AA#5 should be fine.  I intend to work up a
175gr LSWC load with it myself.  I'm currently using W231 but it's hot and
I don't care to mention the charge weight.  Good luck.

MJ

[As if you didn't already know, my opinions are my own and not my
company's.]
From: bz269@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (James D. Del Vecchio)
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: bounced email to Corky@vssteg re Astra A-90
Date: 29 Dec 92 01:49:34 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)


My letters keep bouncing, so I'll put it here.

To: towle@vssteg.DECNET
Subject: Re: Taurus: soft steels & gunsmithing problems?

# Chipping?? Where do you see this happening? If it is inside the bore, 
#possibly its a plated bore and the chrome is peeling off. I haven't worked 
#on any Astra A-90's lately so I'm not sure if they have plated bores or not.

  The A-90 has a lug fixed to the underside of the barrel (diagonal jutting
thing that slides into slot in frame, maybe "lug" isn't right word).  As
near as I can tell, the barrel/lug are stainless, with a coat of black
paint on parts of the outside.  The "chipping" or wear, is on the edges
of the lug/appendage thing.  The edges are wearing down some, kind of
unevenly.  The metal exposed by the wear looks like stainless, contrasting
with the black finish.

	The inside of the bore is hard to see but the chamber looks stain-
less and the bore looks dark, sort of black with grey (lead?) streaks.

It makes little sense that the chamber would be chromed but not the bore.
Have you ever heard of black paint inside of a bore?
... I'm not sure what the composition of the metal or finish is.

Have a good holiday!

Jim
From: mozart@coos.dartmouth.edu (Sting)
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: Re: what does sks mean?
Date: 3 Jan 93 16:00:53 GMT
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH

In <19932.4199.14096@dosgate> patrick.eves@canrem.com (Patrick Eves) writes:

#CC>Does anyone know the meaning of the SKS designation of the SKS model 56?
#Hi, Chris,

#SKS = Samozaridnya Karabina Simonova

#The last two words translate to "Carbine Simonov", Simonov being the name
#of the designer.  As for the first word, maybe try posting it in one of
#the language conferences...;)

I'm not familiar with the exact word offhand, but in Russian, the prefix
Samo- is roughly equivalent to "self-" or "auto-" whence I would suppose
that first word translates to something roughly equivalent to "automatic,"
in the substantive sense we apply to many firearms.

I have no idea what "zaridnya" refers to; is this really an accurate trans-
literation of the word?

Hope this helps,
-Sting

------------------------------------------------------------------------
Michael J. Fromberger                                  Dartmouth College
Consultant, Kiewit Computation Center                        Hanover, NH
email : Sting@Dartmouth.EDU / mozart@coos.dartmouth.edu
USPS  : #3B School St. / Hanover, NH  03755
Tel#  : CRC  (603) 646-2626 / Consultants' Office (603) 646-3417
------------------------------------------------------------------------