HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Broken Thermometers
From: <JCLEWIN@MTUS5.BITNET>
Date: Thursday, 1 Oct 1992 14:26:38 EST
Organization: Computing Technology Services, Michigan Technological Univ.

In article <1992Sep28.181225.580@megatek.com>, redman@plate.megatek.com (Tim
Redfield) says:
>
>I broke a glass thermometer last night.  Stuff went everywhere.
>This was in a bathroom with counters and floors covered with
>the ~ 1 inch tiles. It was a royal pain to get the mercury
>up, because it was so hard to see.  Some questions:
>
>        1) Is there an easy way to clean up after an event
>           such as this?
>
>        2) What is the danger associated with mercury found in
>           thermometers?
>
>Thanx in advance for your replies.
>--
>Tim Redfield          UUCP: {uunet, ucsd, sun}!megatek!redman
>                      INTERNET:            redman@megatek.com
>Megatek Corporation  9645 Scranton Rd.  San Diego, Ca.  92121

According to the safety regulations at our university (Michigan Tech Univ.).
Mercuryis treated as a hazardous waste.  DO NOT use a house hold vacuum cleaner
to clean it up.. all that does is spray it into the air.  You should try to
use cards or something of that sort to ball it up.  IDEALLY, you should get a
special vacuum from a safety supply company to clean it up.  Here at the
University we call our Health and Safety department.  Incidently, I try to
avoid purchasing mercurythermometers for the classes I prep for, alcohol  works
 just as well (and I believe home thermometers are usually available that way).

From: lou@hpkslx.mayfield.HP.COM (Lou Kvitek)
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 20:14:51 GMT
Subject: Re: Water Re-circulators (was IN-LINE WATER HEATERS)
Organization: HP Response Center Lab
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house


A recirculating pump is very effective for have on-demand hot water at 
all locations in the house without using a point of use heater at each
location.

Your water system:
NOW:

  Water
  Heater ==========+==========+]
		   |          |
                 Kitchen    Bath

WITH PUMP:

      Pump======================             Pump closes the loop, keeps hot
       /                        |            hot water circulating.  
  Water                         /
  Heater ==========+==========+]
		   |          |
                 Kitchen    Bath


You must install the pump and additional pipe.  The new pipe should run
to the furthest point of water use from the water heater.  Install a tee
and install the new pipe to close the loop.

You should insulate all pipes and might consider putting pump on a timer
that turns it on when you are likely to need the hot water (ie, might turn
it off from midnight to 5am).
From: srivatsa@karna.Eng.Sun.COM (Chakra Srivatsa)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Craftsman Warranty (was: Electric Drill Recommendation)
Date: 1 Oct 1992 19:11:34 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems
Distribution: usa
Reply-To: srivatsa@karna.Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: karna

In article 6887@mcc.com, breland@mcc.com (Mark Breland) writes:

>Don't mess around...any model Craftsman from Sears.  Take your pick on the
>features you want.  If it breaks, you get a new one.  Mine has survived many
>holes into the concrete foundation to set anchor bolts with no problem.

As I understand it, Craftsman *power* tools only have a 1 year replacement
warranty.  Regular Craftsman tools have a lifetime replacement warranty.

---
The one l lama, he's a priest. 		srivatsa@eng.sun.com
The two l llama, he's a beast.
And I will bet a silk pajama, 
there isn't a three l lllama!		says Ogden Nash
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Square-D electrical panel
Date: 3 Oct 92 07:19:43 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <BvID4J.6L7@world.std.com> edwards@world.std.com (Jonathan Edwards) writes:

>I have been told that aluminum wire needs to be retightened every few years,
>otherwise oxide buildup can lead to bad connections and a fire hazard.
>Has this problem been eliminated with new hardware?

This is incorrect.  Retightening aluminum joints more than once or twice
will make the problem worse.  The problem was eliminated with *proper*
hardware and procedures from the very beginning.  The issue has always
been sloppy installation practises or cost cutting by contractors and
builders who used improper materials.

Read the electrical FAQ for more details.

>The electrician says he put in a SquareD for his own house. That's the kind
>of testimonial that I pay attention to. But the only concrete advantage he
>could explain to me was the breakers are more accurate and reliable in their
>trip currents.

The tolerances are so wide and the safety margins so big, this is rather
irrelevant.

The only breakers I've ever had to replace have been SquareD....
And I've not encountered that many SquareD's at all compared to FPEs
or other breakers.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: bobw@gdstech.GRUMMAN.COM (Bob Waffenschmidt)
Subject: When is a non-level floor a problem?
Organization: Grumman Corporation
Distribution: misc.consumers.house
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 19:28:41 GMT

Hi, 
	First let me apologize if this is totally redundant but I am
not a regular reader of this group.
	I have been house hunting and have been scared away from
several potential home because the flooring was out of level or
warped.  These homes are on average 60 yrs old and appear to be sturdy
in all other respects.  Non-flat flooring is passed off as normal
settling by the realators.  One floor appears to be higher above a
support beam.  In another house the floor was higher at the foot of
the stairs and near doorways.  As I said the houses appear to be solid
otherwise and my guess is that they have been this way for quite some
time.
	Does anyone have any advice or way of determining if
structural problem exists.  

Thanks and please reply directly as I have not read this column
regularly in the past.

bobw@gdstech.grumman.com
From: jfox@hooksett.East.Sun.COM (John Fox - SunExpress IR)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Ventilation
Date: 28 Sep 1992 19:22:00 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Distribution: world
Reply-To: jfox@hooksett.East.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: hooksett.east.sun.com

In article 66320003@misty.boeing.com, burton@misty.boeing.com (Brandy Burton-Tarantino) writes:
> >/ misty:misc.consumers.house / edwards@world.std.com (Jonathan Edwards) /  6:37 am  Sep 24, 1992 /
> >I am building a new house in the Boston area, and would like to engineer
> >a ventilation system to keep the air fresh. This seems like just common sense,
> >what with the house sealed up in a vapor barrier, and full of formaldehyde-
> >emitting materials, and CO2-emitting humans. My problem is that all of the
> >so-called professionals I have consulted all poo-poo the whole idea. Only
> >the heat-recovery-ventilator salesman is enthusiastic. I even spoke with
> >someone at an environmental engineering company that specializes in indoor
> >air-quality issues. I have also spoken with 4 or 5 HVAC contractors.
> >-- 
> >Jonathan Edwards				edwards@intranet.com
> >IntraNet, Inc					617-527-7020
> ----------
>   In our new house -- Yes folks we got it and the FHA made them fix the
>   plumbing problem ... thanx for the inputs  -- this is handled in a 
>   really simple fashion -  above each of the windows there is a little
>   slidy thingy  (looks like a inch wide strip with holes punched through
>   about every ithatnh - strip behind has same size holes which are covered
>   when slider is to left, open when to right - kinda like the top of a 
>   salt shaker that you turn to open/close.  You leave that open - and in
>   the bathroom there is a timer device that turns on the fan (set just
>   like an automatic light timer).  The builder explains that this creates
>   an airflow thru the house removing all the stale air - set it to go
>   off as often and for as long as you wish.  Perhaps this would work for
>   your application.
> 
> XXXXXXXXXXXXXXX    2   XXXXXXXXXXXXXX  T. E. Brandy Burton-Tarantino         X
> XXXXXXXXXXXXXXX   B    XXXXXXXXXXXXXX  uunet!bcstec!misty!burton@bcstec      X
> X            Name your limitations, and you get to keep them.                X


Yes, and it also removes the heat we pay dearly for!
The main purpose of a tight house is energy efficency. Your set-up sounds
contrary to that idea.
Out of curiosity, where do these hole lead? Reason, what you could have is
a nasty moisture problem if they are not shielded from the structure.

To the original author, you've encountered a common problem. Builders and
many in the trades are slow to accept new ideas. Apparently, tight houses,
proper ventilation, and indoor air quality still are considered new ideas.
Keep trying...


John
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Square-D electrical panel
Date: 2 Oct 92 15:20:40 GMT
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ

In article <BvHxvF.3M6@world.std.com> edwards@world.std.com (Jonathan Edwards) writes:
>Following advice here and elsewhere, I have asked the electrician on my
>new house construction to use a Square-D power panel instead of the cheapo
>GE unit the builder usually uses. And also to use all copper wire (they would
>use aluminium for the main feed and oven). The price for both of these
>upgrades is $960! Is this a reasonable price, and is it worth it???

Yes, it's a reasonable price.

In my opinion, it's not worth it. I've never known anyone to have problems
with an aluminum service cable; in fact, I've never known anyone to use
anything else in new services.

That being the case, I wouldn't hesitate to use it for a stove line in
my own home.

Finally, I have a GE panel myself and like it fairly well. I've lived in
houses that had Square-D panels, but I really can't compare them. I mean,
if neither ever breaks, how do they compare? Having installed both, I
can tell you that Square-D panel boxes are bigger for a given main breaker
size and consequently more difficult to install.

patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | If you always tell the truth, you never
                    | have to remember what you said.
                    |                        Samuel Clemens
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: brett@sr.hp.com (Brett K. Carver)
Subject: Summary:  Passive recirculating hot water system
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Clara Division
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 16:04:31 GMT

Here's the summary of the information I received in response to my note:

> I'm trying to gather some information on Passive recirculating hot water
> systems (where the hot water lines form a loop and convection keeps the
> water moving (and hot) all the time).
> ...
> I know the basics.  What I'm looking for are the details that I can give to
> a contractor that may never have installed one.  I want to be able to give
> him enough information to put it in and make it work.

I really didn't get an answer to me question (what do I tell the contractor)
but I did get several comments.  The following is a summary (not just a
concatenation of all the postings) of those comments.

Of course the most important thing is to insulate the hot-water pipes to
preserve as much of the heat as possible.

As far as hard numbers go, I got one response with some, and my own experience.
It would appear that there needs to be a several foot (3+) rise for the send
line.  The return can either tee into the send line close to the top of the
water heater, or go into the tank drain hole at the bottom.  I suspect the
later will work better (larger difference) but the former works just fine in
my dad's house.  I also suspect the loop should be smooth with no dips or peaks
that might 'trap' water and stop the convection flow.

A couple of people suggested an ACTIVE system (using a pump).  I view this as
a solution if the passive system doesn't work for some reason.  The key points
here are:

	1. Use the smallest pump that will move water (1/12 hp suggested).

	2. Have a temperature sensor that only runs the pump when needed.

	3. Have a timer on the pump so it only runs during the day.

It was also suggested that the pump be controlled by a switch at the point of
use.  You'd still have to wait for the water to warm up, but none would be
wasted.

In-line heaters were suggested.  There are other strings discussing these so
you can read them for more information.  I won't be using an in-line heater.

If anyone has any more comments, feel free to send them.  I still need to know
what to tell the builder.  Thanks again to all those who responded.

							Brett Carver
							(707) 577-4344
							brett@sr.hp.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Another dryer venting question
From: preacher@lopez.marquette.MI.US (Preacher,Southside)
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 09:19:27 EDT
Organization: Great White North/UPLink

In <28SEP199207010913@amarna.gsfc.nasa.gov> packer@amarna.gsfc.nasa.gov (Charles Packer) writes:

>Is there any reason not to vent a dryer into the furnace flue,
>that is, the chimney?

i would think the lint dumped out the vent from the dryer would be worse
than what wood stoves dump into the chimney.


--
 
Some people too big,    |   preacher@lopez.marquette..mi.us 
Some people too small,  |----* the only sane one on lopez *----
Some people just right but they talk too much.  --  My Grandfather
From: randyw@iplmail.orl.mmc.com (Randy Walker)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Help, cant remove faucets.
Date: 6 Oct 92 12:17:06 GMT
Organization: Martin Marietta


> I noticed there was an earlier thread on this topic, but it has expired.
>I am trying to replace the washers on a worn-out tub faucet. I remove the
>center screw holding the faucet handle to the post, but the facuet handle
>will not come off.. I've tried prying, but rather than removing the facuet,
>I find that I'm bending the post and cracking the handle near where it is
>connected to the post.. I assume that it has corroded or rusted to the post.
>Does anyone have any suggestions for getting this thing off. It seems like
>my only recourse is the break it off and hope that I can get all the pieces
>off the post..

 I have two suggestions. First try tapping around the faucet handle with a
 hammer to break it loose. Second, you may be able to use an automotive 
 screw-type puller. You can rent these.
From: nguyen@mr.med.ge.com (Dominic Nguyen 4-6604 MRCE)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: High Efficient Furnace Question
Keywords: Furnace
Date: 5 Oct 92 16:50:51 GMT
Article-I.D.: mr.1992Oct5.165051.15858
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance

Could some one give me some comments on these high efficient furnaces:
	1. Bryant
	2. Carrier
	3. Lennox
I need one that is about 92% efficiency and at about 100,000 Btu.
Thanks!
Dominic
From: jimbo@amber.ssd.csd.harris.com (Jim Winters)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Refrigerator light
Date: 5 Oct 92 21:15:28 GMT
Distribution: misc
Organization: Harris Computer Systems Division
NNTP-Posting-Host: amber.ssd.csd.harris.com

Hi!

Our refrigerator has been killing light bulbs lately.  The fridge is
about 5 years old, I guess.  I seem to remember replacing the light
once or twice in that time.  However, in the last three months the
light has gone out three times!  I replace it each time with a regular
40W appliance bulb.

The freezer light is still ok.  (We open the freezer a LOT less than
the fridge.)

We are loath to replace it again, so we are currently using a dark
refrigerator.

Can anyone shed a little, um, light on what the problem might be?  (A
run of bad bulbs?  Bizarre voltage?)

Thanks!
--

--
Jim Winters	jimbo@ssd.csd.harris.com
]O	See through science part of a backdoor.  A door made up of doors...
From: russ@hpkslx.mayfield.HP.COM (Russ Lown)
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 17:25:45 GMT
Subject: Re: Gas piping question
Organization: HP Response Center Lab
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house

Hello,

>>Ok,

>>All legalities aside,  I think the real question i would like to 
>>see answered is, 

>> "where could i get some DIY information on doing a job like this?"

>>In particular, what are some good books on gas fitting.  Then, I can
>>decide if it's worth my time, and if it's legal for me to get the
>>permit and DIM (DoItMyself).

>Why not find out whether it's legal first, before spending any time
>>or money finding out how to do it?  It just takes a phone call.
>>-- 
>Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
>Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
>Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca

I'd like to thank Dick Sweet and George Patterson for giving me the
kind of information i was looking for.  FYI, I'm extending an existing
propane feed through the house to provide gas to the dryer and the
water heater.  It will be about 55 feet with a Tee at the kitchen for
a proposed gas range.

I have already called the Sacramento County Building Inspector and i
can get a permit, and do it myself, so what i was looking for was
validation on what i thought i would have to do.  

Thanks again.

----------
russ lown, Response Center Lab 
Hewlett-Packard Company
Email: russ@hpkslx.mayfield.hp.com
Phone: (415) 691-3421
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: doshay@ursa.arc.nasa.gov (David Doshay)
Subject: Re: MS-DOS based design program? Where at?
Organization: NASA-Ames Biocomputation Center
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 18:54:36 GMT

In article <1992Sep28.130626.706@altair.selu.edu>, tmis1692@altair.selu.edu writes:
|> Are there any MS-DOS based programs that will help you design your house, print
|> the plans and produce a bill of materials?
|> 

I just tried "Design Your Own Home" from Abracadata. I was using the MAC
version, but they make a MS-DOS version too. It is HORRIBLE. I sent it back.

David		doshay@soma.arc.nasa.gov

The thought police insist I tell you:
my thoughts, not NASA's
From: dce@smsc.sony.com (David Elliott)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Home-buyer's spreadsheet?
Date: 1 Oct 92 00:22:10 GMT
Article-I.D.: smsc.1992Oct1.002210.19994
Organization: Sony Microsystems Corp, San Jose, CA

I don't know if this is the right group to ask this in, but I'm
interested in buying my first house, and I was wondering if anyone
had a spreadsheet for calculating the various costs and payments
based on income, tax credits, maintenance, and other items.

I'd prefer an Excel spreadsheet (Windows or Mac).

TIA
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: mja@philabs.philips.com (Michael Amato)
Subject: Re: IN-LINE WATER HEATERS
Originator: mja@hercules
Reply-To: mja@philabs.philips.com (Michael Amato)
Organization: Philips Laboratories, Briarcliff, NY 10510
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 12:47:17 GMT


In article <1992Sep30.164225.17411@informix.com>, davek@informix.com (David Kosenko) writes:
|> Frank Perdicaro writes:
|> >I have put off my comments for a long time.
|> >
|> >I love my in line heater.  I have a Weil Mclain steam heat boiler with
|> >a 3/4" pipe internal hot water coil.  Always works great, I have HOT
|> >water and never any doubt about running out.  
|> 
|> The house I recently bought has a Weil McLain hot water boiler with
|> an internal hot water coil (I guess its internal, although there is
|> this massive iron tumor hanging off the back that the water line feeds
|> into.  
|> I quickly disconnected this (although it did provide sufficient hot water)
|> and installed a gas fired tank type water heater for the simple reason that
|> I had no desire to have my oil furnace on year round.  Now I get equally
|> sufficient amounts of hot water, have an endless supply of energy to produce
|> it, and pay about $5.00.month to do so.  I have not attempted to compare
|> oil consumption with gas consumption (I just fired up my boiler last week,
|> so I have used 0 oil since moving in), so I can't say if it is cheaper or
|> not in comparison.  It is cheap enough regardless.
|> 
|> I suppose if you don't mind running your boiler year round, this is not a
|> problem.  I would much rather not for several reasons (produces a lot more
|> local heat than my water heater, which is not fun in summer; "pollutes" a 
|> lot more than my gas water heater - I plan on replacing it next year; I
|> prefer to not have to worry about whether I need heating oil).
|> 
|> Dave
|> -- 
|> Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
|> **************************************************************************
|> The heart and the mind on a parallel course, never the two shall meet.
|> 						-E. Saliers

I assume by gas you mean natural gas. Not everyone has that available and
propane (bottled gas) is very expensive here. I prefer natural gas to 
oil but I have no choice. Oil heat comes out the next best alternative.
-- 
+-----------------------------------------------------------------+
| Michael Amato  DoD#0639 | "If pro is the opposite of con,       |
| mja@philabs.philips.com | then what is Congress"? - Will Rogers |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------+
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Square-D electrical panel
Date: 3 Oct 92 07:08:23 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <BvHxvF.3M6@world.std.com> edwards@world.std.com (Jonathan Edwards) writes:
>Following advice here and elsewhere, I have asked the electrician on my
>new house construction to use a Square-D power panel instead of the cheapo
>GE unit the builder usually uses. And also to use all copper wire (they would
>use aluminium for the main feed and oven). The price for both of these
>upgrades is $960! Is this a reasonable price, and is it worth it???

$960 seems a trifle steep.  Unless the feed is *really* long.

I don't think you need all three.

There's nothing wrong with aluminum main feeds.  While I do know of
one failure in a main feed wire, the risk is very low because the
"ends" are well contained, and don't present nearly as much of a hazard as,
say, a burnout in a wall receptacle.

I've never heard of panel failures.  I'd stick with whatever the builder
uses unless you can get the upgrade for <$100.  There are other good
panels.  I like FPE and Sylvania panels too.  And I don't think the GEs
would be that bad.

I'd *definately* upgrade the stove to copper tho.  Limit aluminum
to the main feed only.

Consult the wiring FAQ, these points are touched upon.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
From: kls4344@ritvax.isc.rit.edu (Person in flux)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: bathroom fan into attic?
Date: 27 Sep 92 16:54:09 GMT
Reply-To: kls4344@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology

In article <1992Sep27.164318.8953@ultb.isc.rit.edu>, 
kls4344@ritvax.isc.rit.edu (Person in flux) writes:

>I second the Nautilus recommendation and want to add that the motors are made
>by Braun (sp?), which also is a good brand itself.
    ^^^^^
That should be Broan; they make very good range hoods also.

Katie