HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: pcj1@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu (Pierre Jelenc)
Subject: Re: One mans rose...
Reply-To: pcj1@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu (Pierre Jelenc)
Organization: Columbia University
Distribution: all
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1992 22:30:28 GMT

In article <Bu7rsn.9EC@mentor.cc.purdue.edu> esharp@sage.cc.purdue.edu
(Edwin Sharp) writes:
>	With the start of a new school year, new
people move into the apartment complex.  Unfortunatly, my new
neighbors are dry as toast and threatened to call the local police if
I kept "disturbing their peace by inflicting the stench of a brewery
upon them."
>Short of finding another brew site, I was wondering if
it would be possible to brew without the wonderful aromas involved.
Any hints?


What stench of brewery? The wholesome aroma of pure grains from the
American heartland, and of organically grown flowers?

One you put the yeast in, there is essentially no smell. If you really
want to bend over backwards, attach a plastic tubing to your air lock,
and vent it into the kitchen or bathroom vent.

Pierre




Pierre Jelenc                        pcj1@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu 
                                    Columbia University, New York
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: klumpp@casbah,acns.nwu.edu (David Klumpp) Klumpp) (David Klumpp)
Subject: keg priming help
Followup-To: rec.crafts.brewing
Organization: Northwestern U.
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 23:05:27 GMT

Hello fellow brewmeisters!  I hope I can get some help with this homebrew
dilemma.

I hope to keg two batches in about a week; this will be my first attempt at
kegging.  I must, however, have quaffable product on 10 Oct. (ca. 30days). 
Do primed kegs achieve proper carbonation at the same rate as bottles? 
Faster?  Slower?  Would it be possible to throw in some dried yeast with
the priming sugar (malt extract) to accelerate the aging process?  Does
Papazian's quickie method of carbonation (forced at ca. 30psi CO2 for
48hrs) really work well?  Or just well-enough for my non-afficionado,
partying friends?  

Any useful advise is certainly appreciated

David Klumpp
Dept. Biochemistry, Molecular Biology and Cell Biology
Northwestern Univeristy
2153 Sheridan
Evanston, IL 60208
klumpp@casbah.acns.nwu.edu
From: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us (Joseph Nathan Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: That Yummy Malt Flavor
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 92 01:38:47 EDT
Organization: 5 Sigma Software
Reply-To: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us
X-Mailer: uAccess - Macintosh Release: 1.5v5

Something I have yet to duplicate as a homebrewer is the heavy malt
character of some UK and Continental beers.  I'm referring to Scotch
ales, doppelbocks, Oktoberfests, etc., even Pilsner-Urquell.

After much pleasant experimentation (urp!) I've come to the conclusion
that the fault must lie with the malt used.  I have never found a
recipe using normal proportions of domestic pale and crystal (say,
85:15 or 90:10) that produced a clean, non-estery beer with pronounced
malt body.  Even an estery beer with pronounced malt body.  (Except
for some barleywines.)  I've used a fair amount of what purported
to be English pale, but haven't had the results I wanted with that,
either.

What I would like to do (among other things) is to brew clean beers
with subdued esters (I think I can find the yeast and temperature
to do that, now) and heavy malt body with OG 1.050-1.065.

The tendency is for my higher-gravity brews to develop other flavor
characteristics that mask the malt body to some extent.  But the malt
body itself is weak.  I have never brewed a beer with the naked malt 
body of, say, McAndrews. That is, except for the batch of barleywine 
that tastes *exactly* like young Thomas Hardy's Ale ... I'll be hoarding 
the precious little that's left, thank you!

As an aside to another thread:

I just polished off a 50-lb bag of Breiss Klages, which went into
some pales and stouts.  I did notice some DMS in the aroma
of some of the stouts, but as the beers aged it went away.  Frankly
I don't care to use any more Breiss 2-row.  It strikes me as an entirely
unexceptional product, although I have experience with only a few
lots.  I'm reserving judgment on the bag of Breiss Munich.  It smells
nice, anyway!

Back to the main subject:

I've never had trouble brewing beers that tasted like American micro
pales etc., but some of the secrets of European brews continue to elude me.

You folks know the flavor I'm after ... any suggestions?

uunet!joebloe!joseph   (609) 273-8200 day   joseph%joebloe@uunet.uu.net
v   v  sssss | Certified Guru: all-grain brewing,| 2102 Ryan's Run East
 v v  s   s  | C, synthesizer comp & arranging,  | Rt 38 & 41
  v    sss   | photography. Also not a bad cook. | Maple Shade NJ 08052
-----My employer isn't paying for this, and my opinions are my own-----
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: ulick@stravinsky.helios.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford)
Subject: Re: First all-grain brew a disaster (comments and questions)
Organization: University of Notre Dame, Notre Dame
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 02:48:18 GMT

In article <1992Sep7.211919.281@u.washington.edu> pmfisher@milton.u.washington.edu (Patrick Fisher) writes:
>	I've learned my lesson about the hops: use pellets or
>grain bags to prevent/avoid clogging.

Sorry you had problems with your first all mash.  I did too.  My sparge clogged
because I forgot to mash out.  But emptying the sparge bucket back into a pot
and reheating solved that.  

As for the hops, even pellets were a serious clog in my wort chiller.  This
may have been because my 1/4" inside diameter tube was too narrow, too long
(60'), or had constrictions where I bent it.  I reversed it (i.e. flowed
cooling water through it) for subsequent batches.  You'll know much better
when you next do a full mash.  


+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 
+ 'There was a  master come unto the earth, + Ulick Stafford, PP-ASEL       +
+    born in the holy land of Indiana,      + Dept of Chemical Engineering, +
+ in the mystical hills east of Fort Wayne'.+ Notre Dame, IN 46556          +
+      B'fhearr liom bheith ag eitilt.      +    ulick@bach.helios.nd.edu   +
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Subject: Re: Brewing environment.
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean  VA
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 16:34:13 GMT

In article <BuJvzz.1xp@alsvid.une.edu.au>
 kevin@alsvid.une.edu.au (Kevin Pollard) writes:

>How important in the immediate enviroment the fermenter is in?
>I done quite a few brews lately and all appeared OK except one
>which I had the fermenter in an old bathroom. This bathroom isn't
>in use but there's quite a lot of mildew etc growing on the ceiling.

>Am I correct in suspecting the room as being the source of infection?
>It was a closed fermenter, though I did open it once in the room - only
>when initally adding the yeast though.

Air as a source of infection depends on the stuff in the air, as well as the 
amount of air in contact with your wort/beer.

I have yet to have an infection from bottling in my musty basement, though I 
try to clean things up the day before, with a spray bottle of water and 
bleach.

So, the answer is, it depends.  I have brewed two batches with the same 
ingredients and the same process, only one was brewed at a friend's house.  
They came out tasting different, so it had to be the fermenter environment 
(temperature or whatever).

John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own
Fidonet:  1:109/131  Internet:  jdecarlo@mitre.org
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Subject: Re: oxidation and straining hops
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean  VA
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 13:46:59 GMT

In article <BuL6rt.4L3@news.dtc.hp.com>
 peterm@dtc.hp.com (Sweet Pete) writes:

>1.  Oxidation.  Papazian in all his recipes talks about boiling the extract
>with about 1.5 gallons of water and then pouring this immediately into a
>fermenter which has cold water in it.  Do I risk an oxidation problem doing
>this?  I seem to remember articles saying this is not such a good idea.

You don't want to pour hot wort through the air.  You can cool the wort by 
putting the pot in a cold water bath before pouring it into the fermenter.

>2.  Straining hops.  I plan to use hop pellets (or should I seek leaf hops?)
>and am wondering what the best way to strain them out is.  Does it work to
>put them in a muslin bag in the boiling wort?  Otherwise, does an ordinary
>kitchen strainer work ok?

You can get strainers to fit into your big funnel, or use a kitchen 
strainer just fine.


John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own
Fidonet:  1:109/131  Internet:  jdecarlo@mitre.org
From: abirenbo@rigel.cel.scg.hac.com (Aaron Birenboim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: So _THAT'S_ What They Think "Beer" Is ...
Date: 9 Sep 92 14:56:19 GMT
Organization: Hughes Aircraft Colorado Engineering Labs

In article <1992Sep9.011319.24307@pbhyf.PacBell.COM> malodah@PacBell.COM (Martin A. Lodahl) writes:
>
> .... the flavor 
>of Coors Cutter may well represent the taste that most Americans
>register as "beer" ...
>
>It's DMS!!  Dimethyl-goddam-sulfide!  The hops were just detectable,
>which is more than can be said for the malt,

  I had some kind of american no alchahol beer last weekend.
It was my first.  (i doubt it was cutter)  It was DAMN GOOD!
I was shocked.  It was more "beer-like" than any major american
beer i have had.  Good malt flavor, pronounced hop FLAVOR (not bitter)
and aroma... just a bit odd without the alchahol "heat"
or "zip".  I just wish they would try to make their regular
beer more like this.

--
Aaron Birenboim                                |I am just too tired to think
abirenbo%rigel.cel.scg.hac.com@hac2arpa.hac.com|of a good quote.
abirenbo@isis.cs.du.edu                        |    - ChickenHead
w (303) 344-6486                               |
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: bickham@lynx.msc.cornell.edu.UUCP (Scott Bickham,C17 Clark Hall,56079,2737038)
Subject: Re: One mans rose...
Originator: bickham@msc2.msc.cornell.edu
Organization: Cornell-Materials-Science-Center
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 22:48:52 GMT

From article <716010428snx@essence.demon.co.uk>, by prh@essence.demon.co.uk (Peter Humphrey):
> 
> In article <Bu7rsn.9EC@mentor.cc.purdue.edu> esharp@sage.cc.purdue.edu (Edwin Sharp) writes:
> 
>> 
>> 	With the start of a new school year, new people move into the apartment complex.  Unfortunatly, my new neighbors are dry as toast and threatened to call the local police if I kept "disturbing their peace by inflicting the stench of a brewery upon them."
>> Short of finding another brew site, I was wondering if it would be possible to  brew without the wonderful aromas involved.  Any hints?
> 
> Seems to me the best thing you can do, short of ignoring your neighbours 
> and their perfectly reasonable request (:^*) is to put a hood over your 
> boiler and route the steam through a home-made condenser.

I was an undergrad at Purdue, so I know the type of people you are dealing
with :-(  There is nothing substantial in their claim that you are
"disturbing their peace."  Can you imagine what it would be like if the 
police could be called everytime the smell from a neighbor's barbeque wafted 
into through an open window?  Here is my suggestion:  use fans while you
are brewing to help air out the apartment as quickly and well as possible.
If the complaints persist, you can turn the tables when you smell anything 
at all from their apartment, e.g. bread, bacon, lasagna.  As your header
says, one man's rose...

Good luck, 
	Scott
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jdr@wang.com (Joe Rolfe)
Subject: Re: Cajun cooker for cheap?
Organization: Wang Labs, Lowell MA, USA
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 92 17:04:23 GMT

us279764@mmm.serc.3m.com (Philip . Miller) writes:

>Okay all you Rocket-Motor-Camp-Cooker users:

>I'm looking for a >100,000 BTU Cajun Cooker/King Kooker type
>burner and I'd really like to spend less than $50.  Anybody know
>where I can get one?

serive merchandise has some tho expensive, try propane stores in the yellow
pages.

others wanted to know about the higher btu burners - i bought a 160Kbtu for my
brewing needs (it still did not give a rolling boil - i had to boost it with
4500watt electric element.  now i get a full rolling boil after about 2 hours.
i wonder if it has something to do with the size of my kettle and the amount 
of water - oh well :)

i did try to boil 15 gallons (for corn) in a smaller kettle :), it did not
require an electric element or a hell'ofa'lot of time at full blast.

for general needs of less than a barrel 30-60kbtu should be fine.....i'd skip
the electrical element too - save it for your sparge water heater :)


joe "2BBL is too small" Rolfe :)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: binkley@boulder.Colorado.EDU (Jon Binkley)
Subject: Re: Questions for anyone... Anyone?
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: 15 Sep 92 16:02:01 GMT

sstrong@kean.ucs.mun.ca writes:

>1) If bottles are going to explode, when will this occur after
>botteling? (or does this depend on amt of fermentables left etc...)

I've had two go.  They went a couple of months after botteling.
The clue to their condition is that the cap looks a bit puffed out.
If you see this, either re-cap or get them in to a refrigerator.

>2) I have never mixed the sugar for conditioning in solution before
>(always added to bottles).  How much can I get away with?  ie. I
>see 3/4 cup is common, is 1 cup too much?

2/3 to 3/4 for a 5 gallon batch is definitely enough.
Don't go higher than this.

>3) On the use of a secondary, say after 5 days, how much difference
>will this make to my brew?  (I have never used a secondary before,
>will I see vast improvements in my brew)?

Very little at this stage in your brewing career.  Just go with
a primary for a couple of weeks.

>4) I have been using hopped malt extract and the equivalent amt. of
>corn sugar for my brews (following the receipe in the can).  Is it
>better to use some unhopped extract in place of the sugar, say
>half-half?  What will this produce (heaver beer)?

The beer will have more body and will taste about 1,000,000 times
better.  It is completely beyond me why the manufacturers of
malt extract still recommend the addition of sugar.  After all,
when you go all malt not only do you buy twice as much of their
product, but your beer ends up tasting good enough to make again!

Jon Binkley

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: devenzia@euler.jsc.nasa.gov (John DeVenezia)
Subject: Re: Newbie question
Organization: LESC
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 00:04:13 GMT

In article <1992Sep9.185301.23827@mahendo.jpl.nasa.gov>, julie@eddie.jpl.nasa.gov (Julie Kangas) writes:
> 
> 
> I've got a question concerning my first batch (wheat beer).  I'm
> supposed to rack it after five days and continue fermenting for another
> five before I bottle.
> 
> The question:  I've had trouble keeping the temperature between 60
> and 66 degrees.  It's been more like 66 to 72 degrees.  I'll be
> exceedingly busy on the day I'm supposed to rack the beer.  Would
> it be ok to rack it a day early?  I know the bottling will have
> to wait until it's completely fermented out, but what about the
> racking?
> 

Don't know if you were asking a question about the temperature but I'll
answer anyway ;).  No problem.  60-66-72-85 degrees F all will make
fine wheat beer.  I'm surprised you can keep it that cool.  All of
my wheat beers have been fermented at TexasRoomTemperature(tm) which is 
80-87 degrees F.  They have all came out yummy and have been have
been complimented by friends, family and strangers alike. The higher
the temperature the more wheat 'tangey' flavour.

About the racking question.  Repeat the mantra.  
            Relax...
              Don't worry...
                Have a (home)brew...
                   Relax... (ad infinitum)

Day early, day late, not at all.  The racking to the secondary is 
a highly flexiable event.  Really shouldn't put a time constraint 
on it.  When the krausen (the yeasty head that floats on the 
top of the beer when its early in the ferment) falls you can rack.
Or not.  Bottling too.  When you get a chance go for it.  You can
let it sit for any reasonable amount of time.

>
> Ooops, another question.  
> I used a plastic pail for the primary fermenter and still had a ton
> of gunk come out the fermentation lock.  The lock is still in place
> though but extremely cruddy.  Should I wash this before going to
> the secondary fermenter and risk air contact with the beer?

Yes.  The gunk means you had a healthy ferment.  Congrats!  Really
don't want to clog up the airlock but if it still can bubble its
fine.  If not, its fine also. Just clean it out.  You will get air
contact with the beer no matter what you do (unless you build a
closed loop brewery) and you will have no problem due too air contact
(prediction based on 500,000,000 homebrewers experience.)  Just keep the
time of unprotected beer to the minimum possible while not stressing 
yourself out.

                                              Should
> I use a blow-off tube next time?
> 

I you want to.  I've done both and each have their pros and cons.
Ah what the heck; yes, you should use a blow-off tube the next time.  
It really look cool.

> Thanks,
> Julie
> #include "std_disclaimer.h"
> #include "witty_sig.h"
> 
Your welcome,

John D.
devenzia@euler.jsc.nasa.gov
From: gak@wrs.com (Richard Stueven)
Subject: Re: seven gallon carboys
Reply-To: gak@wrs.com
Organization: Wind River Systems, Inc.
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 21:09:21 GMT

In article 20621@news.nd.edu, ulick@angelico.helios.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford) writes:
>In article <13609.2aa4a2d6@ohstpy.mps.ohio-state.edu> cpalmer@ohstpy.mps.ohio-state.edu writes:
>>Does anyone know where you can get seven gallon carboys?
>
>St Patrick's homebrew store in Austin sells em for $10.

Bah!  Couldn't you have posted this yesterday?  I paid $22 (!!!) at
Brewmaster of San Leandro yesterday!

I was desparate, though...I need it for this weekend.

gak

---
I don't know what system you use,  you might try vodka in Evian bottles.   Some
people like  cream in  their morning coffee,  I spike  mine with  a little  JD.
Mickey's Big Mouths are an excellent choice, you can use the empty bottles as a
desktop vase.                               -Hoodlum Empire "Get Drunk At Work"
Richard Stueven        gak@wrs.com         attmail!gakhaus!gak        107/H/3&4
From: spl@pitstop.ucsd.edu (Steve Lamont)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: aluminum brew kettle
Keywords: aluminum
Date: 12 Sep 92 14:37:09 GMT
Organization: University of Calif., San Diego/Microscopy and Imaging Resource
NNTP-Posting-Host: pitstop.ucsd.edu

In article <1992Sep11.174934.21430@progress.com> matth@progress.COM (Matthew J. Harper) writes:
>arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) writes:
>>You get four for the price of one.  You can ferment, mash, boil and clean up
>>simultaneously.  Unfortunately, if Alsheimers get your first , you may forget 
>                                                                        ^^^^^^
>>forget which is which.
> ^^^^^^
>  It sure sets in fast doesn't it? :-) :-)

What sets in fast?  I forgot.

							spl
-- 
Steve Lamont, SciViGuy -- (619) 534-7968 -- spl@dim.ucsd.edu
UCSD Microscopy and Imaging Resource/UCSD Med School/La Jolla, CA 92093-0608
"There was a time when tyrants feared/The new world of the free.
Now freedom is afraid and shrieks/At tyranny." - "Brave New World," A. Macleish
From: hersh@expo.lcs.mit.edu (Jay Hersh)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: More on Hop Bines
Date: 15 Sep 92 18:36:06 GMT
Organization: X Consortium, MIT Laboratory for Computer Science

homebrew@lupulus.ssc.gov writes:

>I also had the same experience as Paul, while picking Centennial
>I had a prickly, burning sensation on my arms and face. It happened
>on only one day and didn't reoccur picking Centennial again or any
>other variety. This was one of the reasons I thought I may have had
>an allergic reaction to the resins. I now think it may be due to
>picking on a hot,humid day where the skin moisture may trigger a
>reaction to the loose resin. Ever notice old photos of hand pickers
>dressed in long sleeved shirts?

Hmm, I have a theory on this.... Hops are acidic. Most plants produce the
resins in their roots which then flows up to the flowers. This is likely
the case with hops as well, so it is likely that the secretions on and
along the vine are acidic and this may be what is causing the reaction...

Just my 1/2 baked idea...


	JaH

--
Hopfen und Malz, Gott erhalts
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: ulick@angelico.helios.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford)
Subject: Re: Christmas Brew-ideas
Organization: University of Notre Dame, Notre Dame
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 14:26:24 GMT

In article <1992Sep10.005404.58751@cc.usu.edu> slk6p@cc.usu.edu writes:
>
>The take home lesson:  To really spice up a brew, and have it achieve its
>fullest potential, make it in the summer- age till x-mas, then give it as
>a WELCOME present to friends, rather than the dreaded YUCK brew it became
>known as.  
>**PS another to consider is CLOVE,  but use sparingly.  It's potent.

Or make it like Samiclaus.  They brew the beer on Dec 6 and release
the previous years on the same date.  Sounds like yours will be an
excellent Chritsmas beer for this christmas!


+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 
+ 'There was a  master come unto the earth, + Ulick Stafford, PP-ASEL       +
+    born in the holy land of Indiana,      + Dept of Chemical Engineering, +
+ in the mystical hills east of Fort Wayne'.+ Notre Dame, IN 46556          +
+      B'fhearr liom bheith ag eitilt.      +    ulick@bach.helios.nd.edu   +
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: ulick@angelico.helios.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford)
Subject: Kristallweizen too clear
Organization: University of Notre Dame, Notre Dame
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 16:11:58 GMT

I bottled a Weizen last weekend and am a little worried that there is not
enough yeats for priming.  There is no yeast in the bottle bottoms.  I
am assuming in the best no worrying tradition that there are a small
number of viable yeast cells and they will eventually prime the beer, but
is it possible that mere settling could have removed all yeast.  I used
the Wyeast Bavarian.


+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 
+ 'There was a  master come unto the earth, + Ulick Stafford, PP-ASEL       +
+    born in the holy land of Indiana,      + Dept of Chemical Engineering, +
+ in the mystical hills east of Fort Wayne'.+ Notre Dame, IN 46556          +
+      B'fhearr liom bheith ag eitilt.      +    ulick@bach.helios.nd.edu   +
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: xzs0753@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (Michael Bauers)
Subject: Missing subject header
Date: Wed, 09 Sep 1992 14:27:35 GMT
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM Rochester

The REAL way A/B makes dry beer
They boil water with hops and malt flavoring
The add enough enough everclear to get the alcohol content correct
They add Yellow#3 to get the desired color
Then they pump it full of CO2

-- 
/////////////////////////////////////////////
///// Michael Bauers 		//
///// Call Sign( phonetically)	//
///// November( Nora)	//
///// Zero			//			
///// Papa( Paul)		//
///// Uniform( Union)		//
///// Kilo( King)		//
////////////////////////////////////////////