HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: danapple@vicor.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Lights affecting idle (was: Re: Cold = Super braking power??)
Date: 30 Sep 92 19:54:14 GMT


> hacker@cco.caltech.edu (Jonathan Bruce Hacker) writes:

> I'll give it a try...

> When you put your foot on the brake you place about a 120 Watt load on
> the alternator because of the brake lights.  This causes the idle
> speed to drop a little (50 rpm) and the engine runs a little rougher.

> value: 2 cents.

One night I noticed my Supra idling a little odd.  The idle speed was
varying by about 30 rpm on a 1 second cycle.  Basically, the tach
wasn't registering a change, but I could hear the exhaust pitch
change.  Then I remembered the hazard lights were on.  When I shut
them off, the engine RPM smoothed out.  For a long moment, I was quite
worried.

value: 2.05 cents.  (Inflation in this economy.)

> Jon Hacker

Dan.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bakc@giraffe.ru.ac.za (MR KR COMAN)
Subject: Re: Car storage
Organization: Rhodes University, Grahamstown, South Africa
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 06:50:47 GMT

In article <1a9pdrINN27l@bigboote.WPI.EDU> walkerr@yaya.WPI.EDU (Robert A Walker) writes:
>From: walkerr@yaya.WPI.EDU (Robert A Walker)
>Subject: Re: Car storage
>Date: 29 Sep 1992 14:32:27 GMT
>
>>Why do you store the car on blocks?  What purpose does it serve?
>
>The reason you put it up on blocks is to save the tires.  A tire tha sits
>around with a lot of weight on it tends to crack, with dry rot and all.  
>The tires are much safer sitting by themselves.

Yep, up on blocks only needed if you're not up to removing the wheels.
>
>
>>Something else you may wish to do to a stored car (read/heard from somewhere, I
>>don't remember where) is to take out all the plugs and squirt some oil in each
>>cylinder.  crank the engine for a few secs to allow the oil to coat the cylinder
>>walls, and then replace the plugs.

Good idea.

Another tip if the car is a manual is to half-engage the clutch using a 
block of wood as a wedge.  This will prevent the clutch plate rusting onto 
the flywheel -- this is especially so if you live in a damp climate.

Wind the windows down a little way to allow a bit of air to circulate -- 
helps forstall the growth of mildew on the carpets, etc.

Have the car steamcleaned underneath -- especially if the climate is damp -- 
the last thing you want is for pockets of moist salty roadcrud to act as 
corrosion catalysts.

Please make sure that the car is absolutely dry inside and out before laying 
up -- reduces the risk of rusting and mildew.

If sub-zero temps are expected, drain the cooling system (inc heater).

Try to find a garage with a some degree of ventilation -- even if it's just 
a draft under the door -- this will help prevent condensation build-up.

Cover the car with a couple of old cotton bed sheets -- will keep the dust 
off, permit air to circulate and allow condensation to evapourate off.  Avoid
the use of an impervious nylon car-cover -- self-evidently.

To keep the engine bay clean, tuck a further piece of cloth around what's 
there.

A trick picked up in the UK (where winter storage of 'collectors' cars 
is common) is to apply a thick coat of vaselene jelly to all chrome/
brightwork, this helps keep rusting and pitting at bay.  

Remove the battery and place off the cold ground (e.g. on a plank of wood).
Give it a morning's trickle charge every 2 weeks.  Better still put it into 
service in another car or *make it work* (e.g.) put a strong bulb across it 
every 2 weeks and then charge.

Besta luck

Keith
From: michaeln@hpcvnb.CV.HP.COM (Mike_Nason)
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 92 04:06:03 PDT
Subject: Re: simple starting problem
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Corvallis, Oregon
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

   My turn. 

   Another thing that can do it is that the solinoid plunger is dirty 
and draging enough that when you don't have a new battery it just doesn't
get enough current to pull it in. The solenoid pulles but things are just
too greasy and dirty to pull the plunger, engage the drive, and energize 
the motor. 
    Lots of posibilities!
                    Mike 

From: borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 16:04:55 GMT
Subject: Re: Is my clutch going out?
Organization: Hewlett Packard Company, Spokane, Wa.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

In rec.autos.tech, federkin@rtsg.mot.com (John Federkins) writes:

>I have an '88 Dodge Shadow, 4 cyl, 5-spd, 44K miles.
>When shifting up through the gears, sometimes it takes a few
>seconds before the next gear catches.  Also, at highway speeds,
>the trans seems to drift between 5th and 4th gears by itself.
>This is my first car with a standard transmission, so I'm not
>really sure what's causing this.  Is my clutch going out?

Sounds bad to me.  First of all, make sure that the clutch is
properly adjusted.  On most cars, there is a maybe 1/2 to 1 inch of
clutch pedal travel before resistance is encountered.  If you do 
not have any free travel like this, your clutch may be improperly
adjusted and thus slipping.  Check this right away, since not checking
it will wear out a clutch very quickly.

If you are sure the clutch is in adjustment, then try this test.
Find a clear area, and set the parking brake well.  Put the car in
5th gear.  Now, let out the clutch and apply full throttle.  If it is
possible to keep the engine running with the clutch pedal fully released,
you need a new clutch.  Don't run it like this more than a second or two,
just long enough to make the determination.

44,000 miles is a bit young for a clutch to go out, unless you drive
quite agressively, have poor shifting technique, haven't adjusted the
clutch, or the clutch was just plain defective.


Donald Borowski    WA6OMI    Hewlett-Packard, Spokane Division
"Angels are able to fly because they take themselves so lightly."
                                       -G.K. Chesterton

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: atovorni@engr.UVic.CA (Andreas  Tovornik)
Subject: Re: simple starting problem
Reply-To: atovorni@engr.UVic.CA
Organization: University of Victoria, Victoria, BC, Canada
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 92 21:29:01 GMT

In article 15160@cc.gatech.edu, louise@pravda.cc.gatech.edu (FA)  writes:
>In article <1992Sep27.185054.21174@cmcl2.nyu.edu> rosenblg@acf3.nyu.edu (Gary J. Rosenblum) writes:
>>	simple question - from time to time when i try to start my car 
>>(whether it is cold or warm), all i get is a 'click' when i turn the 
>>ignition key.  when this happens, it can take one click, or twenty, 
>>then it starts up with no problem.  the problem goes away when i 
>>install a new battery, but starts again after about 2-3 months.  the 
>>battery voltage checks out, and of course whenever i take it to a 
>>mechanic he finds nothing wrong with it.  any ideas?  this happens in 
>>my 1987 toyota celica gt with fuel injection.
>
>I assume you have made sure that the battery posts and the cable
>ends are clean, and that the battery cables are firmly attached
>to the posts.
>
>The problem could be as simple as the negative battery cable not
>being properly grounded.  It could be intermittently loose, which
>would cause the symptoms you see.

Also check and clean the leads to the starter and alternator as well as the
battery. In my years of motoring, these have been the solutions to similar
problems.

Andy.

PLEASE EXCUSE MY OBVIOUS IGNORANCE.
From: seanr@lobo.rmhs.colorado.edu (Sean Reifschneider)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: SUBARU 4WD LOCK-UP
Date: 6 Oct 92 21:34:42 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Rocky Mountain High School, Fort Collins, CO

Well, that's exactly your problem.  If the front tires are a different
radius than the backs, it's constantly causing pressure on center diff.
Since this isn't a limited slip type differential, it will start dragging
one the tires because they won't want to spin the same speed.

I have the same condition on my Subaru, and it takes some work for it to
disengage.  My current one has the electronic system, but my old one had
the lever, and I'd have to try to build some slack before I could easily
disengage the system.  Usually I did this by going full throttle on ice,
then coming out.  

Sean
From: walkerr@wpi.WPI.EDU (Robert A Walker)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Questions about building a Hi-Po 350
Date: 2 Oct 92 20:20:47 GMT
Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute
NNTP-Posting-Host: wpi.wpi.edu

In article <uznerk.718046165@mcl> uznerk@mcl.ucsb.edu (Andrew Krenz) writes:
>Okay.  I own a '87 Chevrolet Caprice with the police package.  It has a 
>350 engine in it, which sometime soon, I'd like to get rebuilt or replaced.

	I'm not sure hwo accurate this is, but I've heard that police 
engines are not the best engines to rebuild since most of their life was
spent running.  The block never cooled down and heated up enough times
to harden like an engine out of a normal persons car would.  You would
have to double check on this but thats what i read somewere.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: atovorni@engr.UVic.CA (Andreas  Tovornik)
Subject: Re: DOHC on a V8 possible?
Reply-To: atovorni@engr.UVic.CA
Organization: University of Victoria, Victoria, BC, Canada
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 92 19:16:02 GMT

In article 15001@newstand.syr.edu, ravalent@rodan.acs.syr.edu (Bob Valentine) writes:

>Ever care to notice that most of the higher-performance cars ARE 
>rear-wheel drive/ live axle?  And there's NOTHING wrong with a pushrod
>V-8, though it is lo-tech.  Now only if Ford would put in a 351w or
>the new 4.6 "modular" motor.  Now that would be a 'stang!
 
  Awwww, c'mon bob. Vettes haven't had live axles since '62. BMW's don't
have them, T-bird SC's don't have them, Aston Martins,Jags, Z-cars,
Ferraris,Lambos,Porsches,etc...don't have them. Only Mustangs, F-cars,
Are there any others? Most "higher performance" cars are unfortunately
fitted with FWD.

Andy.

PLEASE IGNORE MY OBVIOUS IGNORANCE.
From: damong@wpi.WPI.EDU (Damon Francis Gentile)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Valve Job=New rings/bearings?
Date: 5 Oct 92 22:14:21 GMT
Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute
NNTP-Posting-Host: wpi.wpi.edu

In article <s&#@byu.edu> earlyd@newt.ee.byu.edu (David Early) writes:
>
>
>I have a '74 Datsun 260Z.  Saturday we measured the
>compression and found we had ~140psi in #1,2 and 6.
>The middle three cylinders were down around 80psi.
>
>My queston: if I pull the head and have the valve job
>done, does this mean I should replace the rings/bearing?

The rings and beaings are two differnt stories.... having a car 18 years
old can add "extra bits o fun" to your life.... (I have a 74 Fiat).
The bearings should only be replaced if they have significant wear or
if you have acrued over, say 75,000 mi. This shouldn't be too bad
since you already have the engine out.

The rings are very important for compression. But unfortunately, getting
new rings often means that the old rings are worn, and as such, the
pistons probably have significant wear, and that will cause improper
seating of the rings. If you do replace your rings, be sure to ream
the top of the cylinder bore to be sure that there is no ridge, and
After 50,000 miles they should be rebored, and I assume you've exceeded 
that. If you do rebore, you'll most likely need oversize pistons. 
If you leave the ridge there, the ridge will rapidly grind
away at the new rings, presenting itself as a major bitch when you have
to have it rebored (to the 2nd oversize) and have to get new rings
and new oversixe pistons (again).

Damon

questions? email: damong@wpi.wpi.edu

PS:if you do need pistons, i know a great supplier.
From: hamilton@eng.umd.edu (Andrew W. Hamilton)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: upgrading carb for Pontiac 301 engine
Date: 7 Oct 92 00:28:22 GMT
Organization: College of Engineering, University of Maryland, College Park

Hi everyone,

I have a '78 Pontiac 301 engine rated at 145hp SAE net.  Performance
is adequate, but nothing impressive.  I am thinking of replacing
the current 2 barrel carb with a 4 barrel from a junkyard off of the
same engine.  Both configurations were offered from GM that year.
Mine is engine code Y, I don't know what the other is.

Question:  Is this worth the effort?  Will I notice a performance
jump, or am I just setting myself up for a lot of wasted time? 

Thanks,

Andrew.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: battan@sequent.com (Jim Battan)
Subject: battery loading question
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems Inc.
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 92 05:50:17 GMT

I have a Lexus SC300 that has a 210 watt stereo system.  The manual says
to not play the stereo "for long periods of time with the ignition off."
I'm looking for more quantitative data on how long I can keep the stereo
on (at about half power) without signicantly draining the battery--just
before the point it wouldn't recharge completely the next morning when
I drive the car.

I'll summarize e-mail'd responses.
Thanks!

-- 
Jim Battan - Sequent Computer Systems, Beaverton, OR
battan@sequent.com or uunet!sequent!battan
+1 503 578 5129
From: exuclh@exu.ericsson.se (Calvin L. Hall, x 6521, s034)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Caravan/Plymouth AC & Cooling Fan Relays
Date: 2 Oct 92 20:14:13 GMT
Reply-To: exuclh@exu.ericsson.se
Organization: Ericsson Network Systems, Inc.
X-Disclaimer: This article was posted by a user at Ericsson in North America.
              The opinions expressed are strictly those of the user and
              not necessarily those of Ericsson.

In article 20139@exu.ericsson.se, exuclh@exu.ericsson.se (Calvin L. Hall, x 6521, s034) writes:
> Summary: 
> Keywords: 
> 
> How many of you have experienced problems with the relays 
> located on the driver's side firewall? I've had several 
> problems as a result of these relays going bad. When they
> go out there is no way of knowing that either your AC or 
> engine radiator fan are not running. The worst result is
> the engine overheats and breaks a head gaskit or head.
> Additionally, on the engine cooling side, there is a 
> heat activated switch at the bottom of the radiator that
> must send a signal to the relay. Thus, if either the switch
> or the relay is bad, the fan will not operate. The problem
> is further complicated because these two items work
> occasionally, and usually all of the time when you or 
> a mechanic is trying to find the problem. 
> 
> This type of setup is bad. Chrysler should have provided some
> sort of indicator to let the user know which item is defective.
> 
> Does anyone know if they acknowledged this problem and if they 
> provided assistance in any past case?
> 
> Thanks
> Calvin
>
From: msingh@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (The Supreme Commander)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Cold = Super braking power??
Date: 30 Sep 92 15:19:11 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Indiana University

>>tidbit. Whenever I'm at a light with my foot on the brake, the car
>>idles roughly. If I take my foot off the brake (Not that I'd be on the
>>brake if there was no incline...) the engine idles more smoothly.
>
>>I have yet to hear anyone give me a good explanation on that little
>>problem.
>I'll give it a try...
>
>When you put your foot on the brake you place about a 120 Watt load on
>the alternator because of the brake lights.  This causes the idle
>speed to drop a little (50 rpm) and the engine runs a little rougher.

The only problem with this idea would be this: If we assume that the
load on the alternator is the problem, turning on the headlights
should then produce the same problem. However, it does not. In fact,
even turning on the A/C doesn't cause the engine to idle any rougher.


				...Manu

P.S. I thank everyone for their responses, this newsgroup definitely
-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------
The Supreme Commander wishes you a Supreme day. 
I'm a Magic Man, oooh, I got the magic hands, yeah...
Don't mind me, I'm just attempting to dock.
From: aloh@BBN.COM (Anthony Ta Hui Loh)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: toyota spark plug wires unreadable by inductive pickup
Date: 1 Oct 92 20:21:44 GMT
Reply-To: aloh@BBN.COM (Anthony Ta Hui Loh)
Organization: Bolt Beranek and Newman Inc., Cambridge MA
NNTP-Posting-Host: archive.bbn.com

My 1980 Toyota Corolla wagon with 1.8 liter 4 cylinder engine
just failed its emissions diagnostic test.

Oddly, the reason for failure is that the test device was unable
to resolve the RPM with its inductive pickup (the exhaust pipe
probe reported 00.9 CO).

On one spark plug wire, the device reported 0 RPM (no reading), while it
could be coaxed to report 300 RPM on another spark plug wired.

Here are some details:

- The spark plug wires are about 18 months old; I replaced the spark
  plugs with platinum ones from the Toyota dealer a month ago

- The engine idled without hesitation or fluctuation (sounded
  like it was in the 500 - 700 RPM range)

- Power may not be the most I've ever experienced, fuel economy is
  definitely deteriorated (~21 mpg vs. recent experience around ~26 mpg,
  mixed city/highway)

And, perhaps most important, during the last winter cold, the engine
frequently refused to start.  This problem was diagnosed as ignition
failure.  It was fixed when the ignition coil (in a transistorized
switching and magnetic pickup system) was removed and then reinstalled.

Apparently the grounding of the ignition coil to the fender was poor, so I
intend to focus my attention there and install a ground wire between the
coil and the chassis.

Before modifying anything, I intend to check the idle speed with a
dwellmeter which attaches directly to the ignition, and determine if the
inductive pickup on my timing light can properly strobe the waterpump
pulley.  That way, I have some hope of determining if I have made a
positive change when I'm done.

Can the netters give me any advice?  Please email directly in addition
to posting.  (Thanks in advance.)

						Tony (aloh@bbn.com)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dfs5716@usl.edu (Seidel Daniel F)
Subject: Chevy 454's
Organization: University of Southwestern Louisiana
Distribution: n
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 13:48:44 GMT




   Does anyone out there in net-land know what the "normal" output of the Chevy 454 is?  And while I am one the subject any information on the available street power that one may expect to reliably extract from this engine.  (Gee hope that this isn't a FAQ ... oh well).
              Thanks!
From: vbreault@rinhp750.gmr.com (Val Breault)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: New inexpensive pre-oiler
Date: 5 Oct 92 13:24:37 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: General Motors Research Labs
In-reply-to: esc@ulysses.att.com's message of 3 Oct 92 13:22:34 GMT

In article <1992Oct3.132234.26545@ulysses.att.com> esc@ulysses.att.com (E. Steve Crandall) writes:

   Has anyone had experience with the "Safety-Start" pre-oiler from
   Decision Makers?

   Basically it is a small inexpensive ($60) box that delays fuel and
   spark for 5 seconds allow the engine to be turned over by the starter
   motor with the oil pump lubricating the engine.  At five seconds fuel
   and spark are turned on and the engine kicks over.  It has a temperature
   sensor that allows the immediate starting if the engine is already warm.

In my opinion you would be trading the very REMOTE possibility of an engine
overhaul for the very LIKELY possibility of numerous starter replacements.  

It's no challenge anymore to get WELL over 100,000 miles out of an engine.
I've got 150,000 on one of mine and 218,000 on the other.  The only thing
that I do to prolong the life of my engines is to change the oil and filter
at recommended intervals.  

Take the $60 and get yourself a few cases of motor oil and a box of
oil filters.  You WERE planning to change the oil at the recommended
intervals, weren't you?  Here's your chance to get the stuff at a 
quantity discount.   :-)  :-)

Nothing personal Steve, but it bugs me when I hear of folks that want
to throw time and money at a non-problem like engine wear at startup.
It's NOT a problem.  If folks want to toss time and money at a problem
then let them take their water pumps to machine shops to have their 
bearings drilled and tapped for zerk fittings.  You'll replace more 
water pumps than engine bearings over the next 150,000 miles.  

   The press release claims that "two major American automakers" are 
   evaluating the technique and may install it in future engine computers.

Consider:  Manufacturer "A" has a car that starts right up and manufacturer
"B" has a car that won't start in less than 5 seconds.  I can see the adver-
tising now...  "B"s engines are so weak that they had to resort to a delayed
start in order to be able to warrant them.  On the other hand, "A" cars can 
be counted on to start right away, run strong.... just like they've always
done.  

I really enjoy the way my old Chevy 350 starts.... It usually cranks
for 500 to 800 MILLIseconds before popping to life.  I can't imagine
happily sitting there for 5 whole seconds.

-val-

--

Val Breault - vbreault@gmr.com - N8OEF
General Motors Research and Environmental Staff.
The opinions expressed by the author do not necessarily reflect 
those of the GMRES or the General Motors Corporation.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: commercial automatic clutch
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 2 Oct 92 00:05:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> DAFRI 1 is a hydraulic clutch system that is activated by movement of
-> the gearlever. The system consists of an electric oil pump, a black
-> box and actuators to operate the clutch.

 Nothing new there.


-> The system is designed by Fabio Domeneghin and is capable of changing
-> gear in 0.1 second.

 ...and then you drain the synchros out with the gear oil...
                                                                                                         
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: newark@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (antonio.cruz)
Subject: Engine cranks but not running
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 00:41:25 GMT
Keywords: 350 Buick engine

I towed a 1974 Buick Regal with a 350 (H) Buick engine home last week.
The engine cranks after I installed a battery. The car was in this 
lady's garage for 4 years without being turned on or driven.
I modified the old points & condensor system with a '77 HEI system.
I changed the plugs and oil. The timing is on the specs. The old
oil had smell of gas and was overfilled. The engine cranks but doesn't run.
It has spark. And we used quick starter fluid. Back fired once or twice.

Any ideas what is wrong. The lady drove it in the garage with no
problems. It has 100K miles. 

Thanks for any solutions.

++++
Tony
++++
From: uznerk@mcl.ucsb.edu (Andrew Krenz)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Questions about building a Hi-Po 350
Date: 2 Oct 92 17:16:05 GMT

Okay.  I own a '87 Chevrolet Caprice with the police package.  It has a 
350 engine in it, which sometime soon, I'd like to get rebuilt or replaced.
As it is right now, it's making no more than 170HP. according to a Chilton
repair manual's statistics for that model year.  What I'd like to know is, 
how feasible would it be to have a new engine professionally built and
installed so as to have a major increase in power, possibly in the 250-275hp
range.  The car does have a computer, and it is necessary to maintain its
smog legality as well, considering I live in California.  It also has a 
heavy duty Th700-R4 transmission (with cooler, as per police package) which
hopefully should be able to withstand such an increase in power.  Is it 
possible for my two ton tank to run 0-60 in 7 seconds or so, or am I just
daydreaming?  :)


-Andrew Krenz
uznerk@mcl.ucsb.edu

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech