From: pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: [A] Engine Q's & more
Date: 6 Jan 93 15:28:53 GMT
Organization: University of Louisville

In article <1993Jan5.235623.22876@engr.LaTech.edu>, jeffm@engr.LaTech.edu (Jeff L. Matocha) writes:
>      To start off with, a little info:  
> The car turns the engine with the starter and has spark to the plugs.  The
> timing seems to be approximately correct.  There seems to be fuel to the 
> carbs.  The result of all of this is, every once in a while, there is an 
> explosion (no, not a combustion) in the crankcase that spews oil everywhere 
> and blows the cap off of the crankcase breather.  There have been no 
> noticable *controlled* combustions.  The results of a compression test show
> (in psi): #1-unmeasurable, #2-15, #3-30, #4-85.  I think I understand the
> explosions with this kind of non-compression.
> 
>      To me, this looks like a call for an engine rebuild.  I would like to 
> rebuild it just to get the experience rather than buying a rebuilt one.
> 
> Now for some questions...
> 
> 1)  How far should I go with the rebuild?  I could probably just fix the
> compression (which I figure could be due to rings, valves, guides, seats, 
> cracked pistons or cylinders), but I figure while I am in there, I might
> as well put in new valve guides and seats (for unleaded gas) and go ahead
> with a rebuild.  The major question is:  Should the crankcase be opened?
> Or do I have to just wait until I get in and get the engine taken apart
> before I can really tell?  I guess the Haynes manual has me scared.  Is it
> *that* possible that my crankshaft and camshaft (and associated bearings) 
> need replacing?  Also, I see that J.C. Whitney has a rebuild kit for ~$180
> and I wonder if that is a good kit (includes all gaskets, valves, pushrod
> tubes, pistons, cylinders, etc.).  Any advice from anyone, regarding these
> kits, would be highly appreciated.  Also any info from anyone who is pleased
> with a kit they recieved from someone else, would also be gladly appreciated.

Sounds like you have more than bad rings.  Taking out the engine will probably
show burned valves and holes in the pistons (hence the explosions in the case).
Draining out the oil may show lots of metal flakes.  Don't try to start it
anymore, you are hurting it.  The case will have to be taken to a VW Machinist
to have it align-bored (if it is still usable).  This will necessitate new
bearings.  The crank and rods need to be inspected to see if they are still
true.  If all the parts are still usable, then the machinist will tell you what
size bearings you will need.

> 2)  What about carburator rebuild kits?  I have 32 PDSIT 2/3 's on my Type
> III and plan to rebuild them.  What should I look out for?

Take them somewhere to have them cleaned.  You can put them back together
yourself.  Make sure the linkage is still good.  Like Muir, I grease the
gaskets lightly to make sure I get a good seal.

> 3)  I don't understand the purpose of one tube on my engine.  It seems to
> correspond to the oil dipstick tube on the Type I's.  It also was a source
> of oil-spewing during crankcase explosions.

> 
> 4)  What's the difference between Single Port and Dual Port engines 
> (should I decide to get a rebuilt one)?

Dual port engines have two intake ports on each head.  They therefore have
different sheet metal over the heads/cylinders to accommodate the ports.

> 
> 5)  What is a reasonable price to pay for the Idiot Book and where could I
> get such a price?  What are good air-cooled rebuilding books and where are
> they available?  And are there any good Type III books available (Bentley
> makes one but it is for 1968-1973's and I have the Haynes)?

Read the FAQ.  The Idiot Book costs about $21.95.
In your case, "How to Rebuild Your Air-Cooled Volkswagen" would probably be a
good investment if you are intent on doing it yourself.

> 
> 6)  My brakes are *gone* (not a problem now, but eventually).  What all should
> I plan to rebuild (master cylinder, etc)?

Inspect it all!  Brakes are the easiest thing to do on a VW (IMHO), but are the
most important.

>      I know it sounds like a heap, but it is a *sweet* little vehicle.  I 
> just have many questions and hope that *someone* will be able to answer 
> them?  Please offer an opinion (I know you all have one) to this new
> air-cooled owner.

My opinions:  Have a reputable VW shop do the rebuild.  Rebuild to 1600.  If
you have the money, use dual port heads (which will require new manifolds,
sheet metal, and of course, heads). 

Have fun with it!  I lost my '69 Fastback basketcase to the junkyard.

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|pH Fred == pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu    |                               |
|        == ..!psuvax1!ulkyvx.bitnet!pgheit01 |   IBM-  It may be slow, but   |
|           University of Louisville          |    at least it's expensive.   |
|                Louisville, KY               |                               |
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Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw