From: bbojo@zeus.calpoly.edu (Bob Bojorquez)
Subject: Baja Surf Trip
Organization: California Polytechnic State University, San Luis Obispo
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 20:33:00 GMT


This is my first posting to this group. I have enjoyed reading about
others adventures, so I decided to share one of my own with the group.
Hope you enjoy it. 


A few weeks ago I grew tired of waiting for the tropical storms to bring
waves to the Central Coast of California. You see I live in Morro bay
California, which for those who don't know is half way between Los Angeles
and San Francisco. The summer has brought the usual small slow surf and
the thought of some waves being sent up this way by the storm gave us all
hope. Yet the most we got was a couple of days of 3 footers, which everyone
who was having wave withdrawals jumped on. Needless to say our usually
uncrowded surf was looking more like the L.A. freeways with people
snaking and wiping out in front of you. I decided that I was tired of waiting 
for the surf so I packed up and headed south to Baja. My parents have a
condo just north of Ensenada and I have never been skunked by the waves
there. There are always waves and uncrowded conditions. I got down to Baja
late Friday night and as I pulled into the condo I could hear the sound of
breakers pounding on the rocky shore. A good sign I thought, by the sounds
of things the surf is up. The air was warm and clammy, the tropical storm
was having its effects here.
I awoke to the sound of surf and the warm tropical air felt wonderful.
I had butterflys in my stomach anticipating perfect waves. I grabbed a 
cup of coffee and headed to the cliff to check things out. It was a 
beautiful sight. Five to six foot perfect lefts and the water was    
turquoise glass. I hooted with excitement as I made my way down the cliff.
I ran across the beach and paddled out into the lineup. The water was
unusually warm and clear. I could see the clam beds below as I paddled
out. I thought I should dive down later and pick up some clams for some
ceviche to go along with my afternoon margaritas. But my mind was quickly
put back on track by an outside set which was building up to be a perfect
6 foot peak. I dug hard to get to it and quickly turned and with hardly
a stroke I was dropping in. The drop was quick as I was a bit late on the
take off. I dug in and grabbed the wave with my right hand and the barrel
began to curl over my back. I couldn't believe it. My first wave and it
was the best wave I have had in months. I broke out of the barrell and 
drove for speed to the bottom, cut back and hit the top of the lip 
sending a spray that sent a curtain of rainbows glistening in the air.
I caught wave after wave and each one was just as good as the previous.
I then noticed that I was still the only one out. All of this pefection
to myself. I felt priviledged to be here by myself, yet I wanted to 
share this with someone so we could talk about the experience.
I was getting tired so I sat and looked around. The rugged, stark Baja
desert was uniquely contrasted by the beautiful sparkling blue ocean 
and white sand. Then off to my left I noticed I was not the only one
out. There, just a few feet away from me was a large brown seal. He was
very curious and kept popping up closer and closer to me. He reminded
me of my dog and I began to talk to him and tell him how great the   
surf was and how I was chewing up the waves. At least I was telling 
my story to someone. My arms were getting rubbery and I decided that
I would catch another wave and take it all the way in. I said to 
the seal to watch me on the wave and said goodbye. I paddled and
caught another fine wave. I rode it all the way in and dropped down
in exhaustion on the beach. I looked back at the waves and saw my seal
friend taking off on a beatiful  wave. The seal was slicing through the
wave at a tremendous speed and his whole body was visible in the clear
water. He cut back just as the wave closed and broke over him and
he disappeared only to pop up just a few feet in front of me in the shallow
water. I know this is hard to believe, but the seal looked at me and
smiled with a toothy grin. I called out to him and told him he was
truely the best surfer there and his ride was awesome. He again ducked
dived some inside set and was gone. As I stood up, there he was again
slicing up the oceans offerring. I could see a smile on his face as he
carved up this wave. I sat down again and watched in awe.  
I never saw the seal after that, but I sure do remember that day and
that seal. Whenever I need to smile and think about a perfect surf day,
I think of that day and the grin on that seals face as he showed me who
was the best surfer on the beach
 
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