HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jonesm@nic.cerf.net (Matthew Jones)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: IC engines.
Date: 25 Jan 93 18:08:48 GMT
Organization: CERFnet Dial n' CERF Customer Group
NNTP-Posting-Host: nic.cerf.net

Anyone out there want to talk internal combustion gas engines? I am 
considering buying plans or ME reprints for the following models (I'm
not rich enough for castings.):

Seal, Sealion, Seagul, Duplex Mariner.

I also have the plans for Harold Depenbusch's (sp?) hit and miss engine.
I've never built an IC engine and have a very small lathe, is the hit and
miss a good choice for a first?

I think a 4 cycle with exposed, valves looks the best, but maybe a two cycle
would be better to start with. 

I think the 15-25 cc range would be best for my lathe, is 15 so small that 
I will need tweesers to make the small parts?

Any comments wold be appreciated.

Matthew Jones
jonesm@cerf.net
Posted-Date: Fri, 22 Jan 93 15:43:56 CST
Received-Date: Fri, 22 Jan 93 15:42:56 CST
From: Bob Kyweriga <bobk2@cfsmo.honeywell.com>
Subject: high pressure water based metal cutter
To: rec.crafts.metalworking
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 93 15:43:56 CST
Mailer: Elm [revision: 66.25]
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Organization: mailEnteringNews at Honeywell SRC



	A friend had some metal barrels cut in order to build
	a animal feeder.  The person who did this used a cutting
	tool that used a narrow stream of high pressure water to
	cut the barrels.

	Anybody out there familiar with this type of metal cutter?
	Can someone tell me what this is called?

	Any educated guesses as to cost?  Has anyone recall
	seeing a DIY plan for something like this?

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: mcovingt@aisun2.ai.uga.edu (Michael Covington)
Subject: Success!  Was: Re: How to remove cross-threaded bolt...?
Organization: AI Programs, University of Georgia, Athens
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 05:22:09 GMT

Earlier I described a circular saw whose blade-mounting bolt was apparently
cross-threaded.

Tonight I want to report a SUCCESSFUL REPAIR.  The bolt was not cross-
threaded at all, merely stuck.  After having WD-40 on it for 2 days, it
yielded to my large half-inch socket wrench (which can apply a lot more
torque than an open-end wrench -- I hadn't realized the extent of the
difference).

And the off-centeredness was due to the previous user's having made an
elementary error with the washers that go on the two sides of the blade.

So, apart from having a truly worn-out blade, the saw works.  Tomorrow
I'll put a proper blade in it and try it out.

Thanks to all (especially Christopher Ice) for the advice.


-- 
:-  Michael A. Covington     internet mcovingt@uga.cc.uga.edu :    *****
:-  Artificial Intelligence Programs       phone 706 542-0358 :  *********
:-  The University of Georgia                fax 706 542-0349 :   *  *  *
:-  Athens, Georgia 30602-7415 U.S.A.     amateur radio N4TMI :  ** *** **
From: mspencer@ac.dal.ca
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: anybody do much blacksmithing?  how about forge welding?
Keywords: forge welding
Date: 21 Jan 93 21:27:26 GMT
Reply-To: mspencer@quasar.sba.dal.ca
Organization: Dalhousie University, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

In article <1993Jan20.220849.18869@organpipe.uug.arizona.edu>, tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin) writes:
>  ...
> I have been trying to forge weld high carbon steel (files or springs)
> to soft steel to make tools.. [....]  but when the high carbon steel
> is largely exposed I have a lot of problems with burning.   If I
> heat it to a yellow heat it doesn't seem to weld, but if I heat it to
> a white heat I get burning and cracks running throughout the high
> carbon steel.

Assuming you can do a pretty good weld on mild steel --  Try:

1. Using a commercial forge welding flux like E-Z Weld -- one of the
ones with metal filings in it.

2. Heat the two poeces in different parts of the fire, so that, once
fluxed, the high-carbon piece comes up to orange at the same time that
the m/s gets to yellow, that is, the m/s hotter than the high-carbon
steel.

3. Make sure your "high-carbon" item isn't chrome-bearing stainless.
It may be possible to forgeweld it, but I don't think so: I can't.

4. You might try the commercial product sold as "Flutagon steel" for
your cutting-edge piece.  It comes in fluted-square bars and is
intended specifically for tool-making with traditional (i.e. simple,
non-hitech) blacksmith shop methods of forging and heat-treating.  It
welds more easily than stuff like files and is easier to harden and
temper right.  Ask at yr favorite industrial metal-stock or tool
supplier. 

> .... Should I use commercial coke?  Should I
> use a really deep bed of coal?  

Coke out some soft coal ahead so you can keep feeding your fire with
coke instead of green coal.  Or, yes, use commercial coke, about
pea-size if you can get it -- what the Brits call "breeze".  Or, if
you're lucky enough to live near a charcoal burner, charcoal is
*really* clean.

- Mike
---
Michael Spencer              |  Only two Blacksmiths ever went to Hell:
mspencer@quasar.sba.dal.ca   |  One for beating cold Iron, and
mspencer@athena.mit.edu      |  One for charging too little.
                                        -- Bert Shaw, Ph.D.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: bellas@soldev.TTI.COM (Pete Bellas)
Subject: Re: recommendations for band saw needed
Reply-To: bellas@soldev.TTI.COM (Pete Bellas)
Organization: Transaction Technology, Inc.
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 20:52:48 GMT

In article <1993Jan20.051034.28841@tfs.com>, michael@tfs.com writes:

> The kind of saw I'm looking for is where you clamp the work
> down and then swing the band saw down onto the work.

> I'd like to be able to cut things like angle iron and channel steel
> in thicknesses around 1/4", and rebar in diameters of about 1" to 1 1/2".

I have used a 14" "chop saw" for cutting angle, rect tubing and channel
iron up to 3/8" and found it to work well. We also cut 4" square by 3/8"
plates to make gussets for frames that we were welding up. The carborundum
blades seem to last a fairly long time and are not too expensive. The cost
of these cutoff saws rungs from $150 to $250.

			-Pete-


* Pete Bellas                   "Cogito ergo spud"                         *
* Citicorp/TTI                       I think therefore I yam.              *
* Santa Monica, CA                                                         *
* bellas@gamma.tti.com                                                     *
From: pngai@adobe.com (Phil Ngai)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: want to drill and thread holes
Date: 25 Jan 93 22:02:07 GMT
Article-I.D.: adobe.1993Jan25.220207.14707
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated

In article <1jvfdkINN3kb@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> cf036@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (G. Gary Preckshot) writes:
>
>Phil's comments about refillable bottles and acetylene may
>unintentially lead someone into a very dangerous situation.

I think the only thing I said about acetylene is that it
scares me. If that leads someone into a dangerous situation,
sorry.


-- 
My opinions are my own.
From: Charles.K.Scott@dartmouth.edu (Charles K. Scott)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Oxy/Acet welding problems
Date: 27 Jan 93 13:42:42 GMT
 <1993Jan26.210528.21920@watson.ibm.com>
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH
X-Posted-From: InterNews1.0a5@newshost.dartmouth.edu

In article <1993Jan26.210528.21920@watson.ibm.com>
kish@infiniti.watson.ibm.com (Bill Kish) writes:

>  From your description, I'm guessing that your piece is going to look like 
>   this:
> 
>                              ________
>                                  U


Actually it's just the opposite
 
                 U
            __________

What I'm doing is making a hinge brackett and the opposite piece will
pivot inside the top part of the U.  I have to weld the rounded bottom
piece to the base plate.  The entire mess is then bead blasted, primed
and painted then mounted on the wing.

This discussion is great, I'm getting a lot of good information, thanks
everyone.

Corky Scott
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: iceman@camelot.bradley.edu (Christopher Ice)
Subject: Re: How to remove cross-threaded bolt...?
Organization: Bradley University
Distribution: usa
Date: 24 Jan 93 17:13:18 GMT

In <C1C94H.KMI@athena.cs.uga.edu> mcovingt@athena.cs.uga.edu (Michael A. Covington) writes:

>How should I approach the problem of removing it?  So far, I've put a C-clamp
>on the blade (rendering it immobile) and have used an open-end wrench on
>the bolt, with no success, even hitting the wrench with a hammer.  Spraying
>WD-40 on the bolt and leaving it for 30 minutes didn't work.

You aren't using a big enough wrench!  Try using a 1/2 drive socket wrench and
a good length breaker bar.

Take heed!!!  The threads have already been ruined.  You will have to re-tap
the spindle with a larger thread.  The centerline of the new thread must be
ABSOLUTELY inline with the axis of the spindle or the blade will wobble.  If
you don't have the tools/know-how/facilities to do this, maybe a local machine
shop or community-college will help.


+--------------------------------------///-------------------------------------+|    Chris Ice, CMfgT                 ///         Bradley University           |
|    iceman@camelot.bradley.edu   \\\///          Peoria, IL, USA              |+----------------------------------\XX/----------------------------------------+


		      You will be the secret agent....
	    penetrating to the very heart of their control center.

			          _   /|
   				  \`o_O'  Ack Phfft!
   				    ( )
   				     U
From: coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM (Chip Coffin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Stamping Dies
Date: 27 Jan 1993 03:27:36 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Distribution: world
Reply-To: coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: surfin

Has anyone out there ever built a die for stamping metal?

I would love to talk to any self proclaimed experts, or be referred
to a good text on the subject.

In particular, I would like to know the process involved, the
types of alloys used, what kind of size limitations there are, 
how long one would last, does the metal have to be hot, etc, etc.

Can you say beginner....:)  



Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,


chip

W 415 336 3386
H 408 377 4383




Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: mcovingt@athena.cs.uga.edu (Michael A. Covington)
Subject: How to remove cross-threaded bolt...?
Organization: University of Georgia, Athens
Distribution: usa
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1993 03:17:05 GMT

Today I bought a small used circular saw very cheaply, then, on getting
home, found out why it was so cheap.  The blade is slightly off-center and
the bolt that holds it cannot be removed.  My best guess is that the
bolt is in fact cross-threaded (which would account for the unremovability
and the off-centeredness).

How should I approach the problem of removing it?  So far, I've put a C-clamp
on the blade (rendering it immobile) and have used an open-end wrench on
the bolt, with no success, even hitting the wrench with a hammer.  Spraying
WD-40 on the bolt and leaving it for 30 minutes didn't work.

This saw isn't valuable enough to spend money on.  But if I can get that
bolt out and repair the threads myself, it would be worthwhile.  What should
I do next?
-- 
+ Michael A. Covington
+ Artificial Intelligence Programs
+ The University of Georgia
+ Athens, GA 30602-7415              (706) 542-0359
From: dparsons@plasma.ps.uci.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Oxy/Acet welding problems
Date: 26 Jan 93 16:45:04 GMT
Article-I.D.: news.2B656A90.13919
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8]

Charles K. Scott (Charles.K.Scott@dartmouth.edu) wrote:
: I'm into a long term building project that involves many different
: skills; woodworking, welding, engine building, cable stringing and
: fabric.  Yes, it's an airplane.  At the moment I'm having difficulty
: with the welding part.  I've got a set of Smith guages for the torch
: and while they seem to work OK, what I'd like to discuss is the

Corky,

Your friend uses the same pressure settings that I do  6 & 20 psi.  The 
regulator pressures are not all that important as the flame adjustment is
made at the knobs in the torch handle.  I have seldom had to have more than
6 & 20 psi and then only when I was using a rosette tip and trying to heat
up things like hell's gates hinges.  I would like to mention a safety tip:
When you open the bottles, first do not stand in front of the regulators, the
adjustment "T" handle has been known to blast out at 2000 lbs psi.  The other
thing is only open the valve one quarter to one half turn.  This will not
restrict the flow and will allow you to shut it off quickly in case of an
emergency.

When you are brazing the correct flux is important and the flame is important.
The flame must be an oxidizing flame, that is to say as the piece heats up you
should observe that it appears to get cleaner.  It is not a hissing kind of 
flame out of the tip, it is quite, gentle with a somewhat long blue finger
of flame at the end.  You can certainly get a hotter flame from oxy. acetelyne
than you want to use when brazing. 

Good Luck, practice practice and yes fire brick is good backing and propping
material, it doesn't absorb much heat.

Dave Parsons
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: Bathsheba.Grossman@launchpad.unc.edu (Bathsheba Grossman)
Subject: Re: Oxy/Acet welding problems
Organization: University of North Carolina Extended Bulletin Board Service
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 05:46:32 GMT

Lots of good advice coming out here!  I learned 2 years ago, from
a guy who used to build nuclear power plants (apparently the 9"-wall pipes
for high-pressure radioactive steam are the hardest part), and here's my tips
du jour.  Welds (and cuts) come out more uniform if you set up a
wrist-rest, some cool metal or firebricks or whatever, in the right place to
slide your arm(s) along as the weld progresses; it takes the twitchiness out
of the rod tip.  

I use a pause-puddle-dip sequence, and have noticed that, especially
when welding inside a right angle, it's important to keep the puddle
round, rather than dipping too soon when it's C-shaped.  Otherwise you don't
get good penetration in the angle.

-Sheba
--
   The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the University of
     North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Campus Office for Information
        Technology, or the Experimental Bulletin Board Service.
           internet:  laUNChpad.unc.edu or 152.2.22.80
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: laird@pasture.ecn.purdue.edu (Kyler Laird)
Subject: Re: recommendation for band saw for cutting Al tubing
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network
Date: 25 Jan 93 16:24:54 GMT

stavros@agora.rain.com (Steve Culliton) writes:
>How about just using a simple, cheap $8.00 tube cutter?  

Did I mention that I'm trying to cut fairly elaborate shapes?  Nope, don't
think I did.  Wish I could describe it.  Kind of like some church organ
pipes...

--kyler
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: kamooni@pb2esac.uucp (Ken Moonitz)
Subject: TurboCad
Keywords: TurboCad
Organization: Pacific*Bell ESAC, Oakland, CA.
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 18:59:00 GMT

TurboCad version 3

IMSI 
1938 Fourth Street
San Rafael, Ca., 94901

1800-833-8082
From: mscr_ss@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Matthew Scher)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Stamping Dies
Date: 27 Jan 93 16:06:13 GMT
Organization: University of Rochester - Rochester, New York

In <1993Jan27.152050.3162@pasteur.Berkeley.EDU> jmorton@euler.Berkeley.EDU (John Morton) writes:

>In article <lmc098INNpp4@exodus.Eng.Sun.COM> coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM writes:
>>Has anyone out there ever built a die for stamping metal?

>What do you mean, "stamping metal"?

I think he means making dies that can stamp metal slugs to produce coins.
I know someone who does this, but I don't live near him anymore.  From
what I remember, the blanks (aluminum and copper) were stamped with a 
steel cylinder about 1.5 inches in diameter and 5-8 inches high..  He
did not use a negative image on the bottom, so the bottom just remained 
flat..

Hope that helps
Matt
From: badboy@netcom.com (Jay Keller)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Oxy/Acet welding problems
Date: 27 Jan 93 09:32:45 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest)

My rule of thumb was always to set the oxygen to 5/2 the pressure of the
acetylene, which gives the basis for a neutral flame, then use the torch
head to vary the ratio to get oxidizing or reducing flame as required.

The 5/2 ratio is based on:

         2(C2H2) + 5(O2) ---> 4(CO2) + 2(H2O) (+ energy)

The best welder I ever knew spent lots of time (like when he was watching TV,
etc.) practicing smoothly feeding thin welding rod.
                 ^^^^^^^^
We used to joke that he could cut the foil from a gum wrapper in half and
weld it back together without putting a hole in it.

Regards,

Jay Keller
Sunnyvale, California
badboy@netcom.com
From: ag900@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (David Burris)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: want to drill and thread holes
Date: 21 Jan 1993 15:49:11 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: ag900@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (David Burris)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc10.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis) says:

>In article <146933@lll-winken.LLNL.GOV> gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot) writes:

snip..snip...

>
>You really stepped in it.
>
>One should be cautious about making assumptions about how "new" people are.
>Phil has been around here a lot longer than you, longer than almost anybody

Phil may not be new to the net, but he certainly appears to be new to
the task of drilling and tapping, which is what I though Gary meant.
The again, I've been know to step in 'it' on occasion. 8-)

Dave

-- 
ag900@cleveland.freenet.edu

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: laird@pasture.ecn.purdue.edu (Kyler Laird)
Subject: recommendation for band saw for cutting Al tubing
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network
Date: 22 Jan 93 16:11:53 GMT

I'd like to cut some chimes out of aluminum.  (What do you think
they'll sound like?)  I'd like to get a small (table top) band
saw, but I can't find any blades of that size for aluminum.

So...will a table top model hold up to cutting a couple hundred
chimes?  Which one should I get?  Where can I get blades for Al?

thanks!

--kyler
From: plkg_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Paul Gloger)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: recommendations for band saw needed
Date: 22 Jan 93 04:38:26 GMT
Organization: University of Rochester - Rochester, New York

In <1993Jan20.051034.28841@tfs.com> michael@tfs.com writes:

>I'm getting ready to spend some $250 on a band saw for metal.


I bought one of these (an ENCO) several years ago.  

Con: You get what you pay for.
Pro: What you really pay for is a pretty good band saw kit.
     (Though the folks who sell them think they've assembled it for you.)

What I mean by all this foolishness is that the saw, as it came, did not cut
square (and we're not talking "measure-it-and-see" square, but "from-across-
the-room-you-can-see-it's-not" square!).  This was a matter of blade align-
ment and frame alignment.  Blade alignment is adjustable using the eccentric
pins that the guide rollers are mounted on, but there wasn't enough
adjustment so I made some new pins (very basic lathe stuff, nothing tricky). 
Frame alignment was also adjustable by shimming between the swinging frame
and the hinge it's attached to (also not tricky; washers worked, not even
any shim stock involved).  There were also some other minor cheap-and-
crummy-nesses about it, but they were also easy fixes.  

In my opinion, for that kind of money it's a pretty good kit. :)

Paul K. Gloger
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: laforce@xenon.arc.nasa.gov (Soren LaForce)
Subject: Re: Double threads
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA Ames Res. Ctr. Mtn Vw CA 94035
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 16:26:00 GMT

In article <1k7bi7INNb43@tamsun.tamu.edu>, markf@cs.tamu.edu (Mark A Fleming) writes...
> 
>In article <1993Jan27.094439.420@news.uwyo.edu> jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu writes:
>>I have a few interesting items in my scrap box (handles from removable
>>disk packs, including the part that threads into the spindle of the
>>disk drive), and just realized last night that they include a moderately
>>rare type of thread.  It looked and measured as 3/8-24, but upon further
>>inspection (and the fact that my 3/8-24 die would not screw onto it)
>>I realized that it is "double threaded."  Is that the proper term?
> 
>     I've never run across such a tap in any general purpose catalog, but as
>you suggest, a thread can be cut on a lathe which has a thread-cutting index
>attachment.  You might also be able to modify an existing four flute tap to
>cut such threads by selectively removing teeth.  Take say a 3/8-24 and remove
>alternate teeth from opposite flutes.  Or, of course, just cut the required
>thread in drill rod, shape for flute and temper, then harden.
> 
>maf


However, the problem here will be to start the second thread 180 degrees
out of phase with the first.  Lathes have the advantage of indexing 
wheels to do this.

Not to mention that the angle of the threads will be wrong too.


--Soren            laforce@xenon.arc.nasa.gov
From: jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Determining Aluminum from junk metal
Date: 24 Jan 93 15:23:00 MST
Distribution: world
Organization: University of Wyoming - Laramie, WY

I have some scrap aluminum but am unsure if it is actually Al or
just pot metal.  They are castings of several pounds.  Is there
some easy way to determine aluminum from some other metals/alloys?
It at least fails the magnet test!

Several years ago I recycled some large pieces, and the guy at
the recycling station filed a piece to clean it up, dripped something
from a plastic bottle onto it, and stared for a few seconds.  But
I have no idea what the solution was.

Hints and clues welcome!

Jim Kirkpatrick
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: OPP00JS@AUDUCADM.DUC.AUBURN.EDU (John Sugg)
Subject: Meta Grinder Plans
Reply-To: suggjoh@mail.duc.auburn.edu
Organization: Auburn University, AL
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 15:30:00 GMT


I HAVE RECENTLY LOOKED AT A COPY OF THE PLANS TO BUILD YOUR OWN BELT
GRINDER OFFERED BY META-MACHINES IN REDDING, CA. IT IS IMPRESSIVE
BUT NIE ON TO IMPOSSIBLE BUILD WITHOUT MACHINE SHOP AND A MACHINIST
TO HELP YOU. ALSO THERE IS AN ADDITIONAL SPEC SHEET SENT OUT AFTER
YOU RECIEVE THE FIRST SET. WHETHER THIS MOVE IS TO DISCOURAGE WANTON
COPYING OF THE PLANS OR ARE JUST MISTAKES MADE IN THE FIRST IS UNCLEAR.
THERE IS A SCALE BLUE PRINT OF ALL THE PARTS YOU NEED AND DETAILED
INSTRUCTIONS ON WHAT TO DO. WHAT THE PHOTOS DON'T SHOW THE ARTICLE
IN BLADE MAGAZINE IS THAT THE SMALL WHEEL ATTACHMENT IS RUN OFF A JACK
SHAFT IN THE BACK. IF YOU DO BUILD THIS GRINDER IT WILL BE A GOOD ONE
I'M SURE BUT BUILDING IT WILL BE A LOT HARDER THAN THE ADD SAYS IT WILL.
--
JOHN SUGG                                                               00010001
YELLOW HAMMER FORGE                                                     00020001
WAVERLY,ALABAMA USA                                                     00030001
                                                                        00040001
"TWO THINGS THAT WILL SEND A BLACKSMITH TO HELL;NOT CHARGING ENOUGH FOR 00050001
HIS WORK AND BEATING COLD IRON."                                        00060001