HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: ehouse@Apple.COM (Eric House)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Phil Wood titanium bottom bracket
Keywords: Phil titanium BB
Date: 1 Sep 92 15:42:26 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Apple Computer Inc., Cupertino, CA

I was down at Phil Wood's shop this weekend getting a longer axle put in
my rear hub, and (among other things) the guy who helped me showed me a
Ti axle that has been available in their sealed BB units for a while now.
I hadn't heard of or seen one of these units before, perhaps because they're
>$200 in shops.

The Guy Who Helped Me (no, that's not his name but I didn't ask) told me
that they'd spent a lot of time looking at various Ti alloys trying to find
something as stiff as the stainless steel they normally use, as the 6/4 most
makers use for spindles is much too flexible in Phil's opinion.  (And he's
not alone here, I understand.)  They found something, but aren't telling
anyone what it is.  I handled both spindles, and there was considerable
difference -- though not enough to pay $100 for.

So, anyone care to speculate what kind of alloy they're using?  How hard
would it be to buy a spindle and have it assayed, anyway -- not for one of
us, of course, but for a competitor?  I'm wondering if refusing to reveal
the composition of the alloy does anything more than cost the competition a
couple of hundred $.
-- 
****************************************************************************
Eric House			"My employer doesn't share its opinions with
			   	 me, so I can share only mine with you"
From: dak@ferrari.mst6.lanl.gov (Dave Korzekwa)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Summ. of Frame Materials for Review
Date: 28 Aug 92 20:43:40 GMT
Organization: Los Alamos National Lab, Group MST-6

In article <1992Aug28.180314.18870@rsg1.er.usgs.gov> junger@rsg1.er.usgs.gov (John Unger) writes:
>In article <dxdn!5c.tomk@netcom.com> tomk@netcom.com (Thomas H. Kunich) writes:
>>In article <1992Aug28.033816.10552@mustang.mst6.lanl.gov> dak@ferrari.mst6.lanl.gov (Dave Korzekwa) writes:
>>>
>>> stuff deleted
>>>
>>>various grades of rather low alloy steel, the elastic modulus
>>>("stiffness") is not going to vary by more than a couple of percent.
>>
>> more stuff deleted
>>
>>Whew! Have you ever read a tubing manual? Reynold's 753 is suppose
>>to have almost 3 times the yield point of Reynold's 531.
>>
>>
>
>Don't confuse elastic modulus and yield strength; they are two very
>different properties of materials.
>
>Elastic modulus (Young's modulus in this case) is the constant that
>relates stress and strain in a material. This value does not change
>much in alloy steels.

Good description of yield strength vs. elastic modulus deleted.
(Thanks, John Unger, for helping me clear that up.)

I certainly didn't mean to imply that the grade of steel doesn't
matter.  I *will* risk getting flamed by stating that most of the design
problems in a bicycle frame are stiffness (elastic modulus) limited as
opposed to strength (yield strength) limited.  However...

A bicycle frame is a wonderfully complex thing, and increasing the
strength gives a designer more flexibility in several areas.  I do
agree that yield strength is important.

Dave Korzekwa
dak@mustang.mst6.lanl.gov
From: tlt38517@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Terry Thiel)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Difference between Shimano RX100 and 105 components
Date: 1 Sep 92 18:32:17 GMT
Article-I.D.: news.Btwwtv.Jo
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana

ericr@dadd.ti.com (Eric Rullan) writes:
>I've recently decided to buy an entry level racing bike and I've been somewhat
>overwelmed  by the marketplace.  I'm looking to spend around $500-$700.  In 
>this price range, the big difference seems to be in the components.  Almost
>everyone seems to suggest paying the extra $$$ for the Shimano 105 components.
>However, nobody has been able to tell me exactly what the difference is 
>between the RX100 and the 105's.  
>Can anyone explain the differences or can someone provide a number for 
>Shimano so that I might try calling them directly??
Shimano will only tell you some BS or other.  The only difference between
RX100 and 105 is that 105 is painted.  Personally I think the chrome RX100
looks better anyway.  Also you will usually see 105 bikes these days with
clipless pedals whereas 105 bikes generally have toe clips and straps.
I would also suggest you look at the Bridgestone RB-2 as a good entry level
bike.  it goes for around $550.  In general this is an excellent time to
buy a new road bike because the 93's are already coming out so there are some
really good buys out there on the 92's.  You could probably get a bike
for $700 that is normally a thousand or more.
-Terry
Organization: Pittsburgh Supercomputing Center, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech,rec.bicycles
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 09:06:29 -0400 
From: "Chad R. Vizino" <cv0q+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Braze-on Question

I have an older, Fuji Royale touring bike that I am hauling out of the
closet after many years of storage.  The bike is nice enough for my
needs but does not have braze-ons for a water bottle cage. My past
experience with cages and cage clips has been very frustrating since the
cages that come with clips tend to be of inferior quality.

Could you netters comment on the difficulty/expense/caveats of having
someone add water bottle cage braze-ons to my Fuji chrome-moly frame?  
Is this procedure advisable (BTW I don't have any spare paint to match
the frame)?

I would appreciate any feedback.  Thanks!

  -Chad
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: rpimente@es.com (Richard Pimentel)
Subject: Re: *** CREAK FIX ***
Reply-To: rpimente@es.com (Richard Pimentel)
Organization: Evans & Sutherland Computer Corp., Salt Lake City, UT
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 92 17:10:12 GMT

In article <jk6898.715410993@ehsn2.cen.uiuc.edu>, jk6898@ehsn2.cen.uiuc.edu (Joseph T Kavanagh) writes:
|> 
|> I had vicious creaks even after installing a sealed BB on my Chill. It
|> turned out that the shoulders on my crankarms were worn and were not
|> seating correctly. I wrapped some vinyl eletrical tape around the BB
|> shaft(very tightly mind you) and then used loc-tite on the bolt.
					^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

	Yikes! Have you tried to remove the crank bolt since you used
	loc-tite? My experience with loc-tite is that stuff REALLY works
	and the one can actually strip out threads or break off bolt heads
	trying to loosen loc-tite'd bolts. I would not recommend this to
	anyone unless they never plan to pack their bottom bracket bearings
	again.

	--Richard

|> I have never had the problem again - this was a constantly re-occuring
|> problem. I ride about 120 miles/week (rough miles too) and this has
|> held for 4 months now...
|> 
|> Good luck!
|> 
|> Joe's roommate
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: newman@otto.ycc.yale.edu (Andrew Newman)
Subject: Hyperglide Chains
Organization: Yale University
Distribution: rec
Date:  1 Sep 92 14:09:44 GMT

Greetings,

A few weeks after purchasing my new MTB, I popped the Hyperglide
chain off using the 'special' black pin (this is an HG70) and
cleaned all of the lubricant that the bicycle store had placed on
it off.  After that, I soaked the chain in kerosene and scrubed the
grit off of it.  When clean and dry, I lubricated it with Pedros and
put it back on the bike.  The intention is to be able to clean and
lube the chain on the bike from now until it is 'used up' ala the
instructions on the bottle of Pedros.

When I put the chain back on, as someone else on the net mentioned,
The outer plate through which I pushed the 'special' link bowed outward
a bit.  Yes, I pushed the original pin back through against Shimano's
recommendation.  So far I haven't had any failures but I carry my chain
link extractor with me just in case.  If this chain *does* fail, what is
the typical failure mode?  I have been bicycling for 12 years now and
haven't had any chain failure on the road.  Will the chain be repairable
with a chain link tool or will I have to walk it home and purchase a new
chain?  When people indicate that the chain broke, I am assuming that this
wasn't metal breakage due to fatigue but rather the result of a pin slipping
out of the end of a link and wedging the link partially open.  Eventually,
I suppose the chain would snap when the opposing side plate got bent from
the stretching of the chain.  Wouldn't you hear this noise before it
actually broke?

I need some war stories and practical advice.  Hyperglide has introduced
a new angst to my cycling that wasn't previously present.  Thanks....


*  ===\  |===|  ===\  *========================================================
*  |       |    |  |  *                 -Andrew Newman                        *
*  |==|    |    |==/  *                  C&IS Systems Technology & Planning   *
*     |    |    |     *                  Yale University                      *
*  \===    |    |     *                  (newman-andy@yale.edu)               *
*---------------------*========================================================
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: rory@wri.com (Rory Murtagh)
Subject: Re: I Can't See
Organization: Wolfram Research, Inc.
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 18:41:04 GMT


In article <1992Aug27.162008.14837@athena.mit.edu> (Joakim Karlsson) writes:

   I got tired of bugs, rocks, dirt, and branches in my eyes, so
   I bought some protective eyewear at my local bike store.  It's
   ...
   spend $45-$100.  Slight problem: They fog up.  This only happens
   after stopping the bike, not while riding (once I've wiped them
   clear that is).  Is there a way to prevent this?  Do more expensive
   ...

You could try rubbing some/any detergent on them and them wiping them
clean.  e.g. Hand soap, disk washer fluid etc.  The small ammount of
remaining detergent seems to do something with the condensation and the
lenses remain see through.
From: pardo@cs.washington.edu (David Keppel)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Grease Holes in Hubcaps
Date: 31 Aug 92 23:51:51 GMT
Article-I.D.: beaver.1992Aug31.235151.20982
Distribution: usa
Organization: Computer Science & Engineering, U. of Washington, Seattle

>jsr@TorreyPinesCA.ncr.com (Joe Riel 3752):
>[Why grease fittings in the dustcaps?  I've never heard of anyone
> using them.]

tan@lynx.msc.cornell.edu.UUCP (David Tan,Box 219 Baker Lab,54810,2720402) writes:
>[They are for oil, for time trials and track events.]

They're for grease.

Many older hubs have a center hole in the hub shell for light
lubricants.  Many newer hubs have fancy dustcaps for injecting grease.
The Shimano Deore XT ones I have don't get used because they don't work.

	;-D oN  ( Oil have another, thank you )  Pardo
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: crwg2707@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (R. Wagner)
Subject: Re: MTB: How to not trash the rear derailleur?
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 18:36:34 GMT

There is a "cage" made by somebody that protects derailleurs from "dense" 
objects.  I don't know any more about it except that a friend of mine has
one.  He got his because he was riding a lot of rocks.  It attaches on the
end of the QR and covers most of the derailleur from the top, so as to
allow freedom of motion.  Personally, I've never seen it in action, but
I did see this guy do an excellent 1 1/2 into some trees, I gave him a 9.85
(it would have been higher, but he didn't point his toes).


Ride on, 
Raydude.

"Ray, a man unburdened by the rigors of coherent thought." 
          -a Brannonism quoted by George Heinz
From: tomk@netcom.com (Thomas H. Kunich)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Hubs built for straight spokes
Keywords: break flange hub spoke wheel
Date: 1 Sep 92 23:41:19 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)

In <1992Sep1.045541.2408@beaver.cs.washington.edu> pardo@cs.washington.edu (David Keppel) writes:
>
>Today in the trusty rusty bike shop I saw hubs with ``flanges'' built
>for elbow-less headed spokes.  The ``flange'' is an N-pointed star
>with N equal to 1/4 the total number of spokes.  Each point has `depth'
>as you look at the side (axle stub) of the hub.  That `depth' is
>drilled with a pair of holes, perpendicular to your axle-side view.
>Each hole is drilled to point tangentially from the flange to the rim.
>Each hole is countersunk for a spoke with a head but no elbow.
>
This sounds like Pulstar, a California company. I have seen a set of these
built into wheels. They weigh about the same as Mavic hubs and cost
a little more. Spokes will be harder to find, but theoretically much
harder to break. A french company, Roval, builds hubs like this also
and they have built 20 spoke hubs for a long time. They seem to
work and while it is reported that they still break the occassional
spoke it isn't nearly as often as bent spokes.

I'll probably try them for my next road bike. Mountain bikes don't
break spokes if you're running good wheels.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: jrh@mustang.dell.com (Randy Howard)
Subject: Specialized Self-sealing tube problem
Organization: Dell Computer Co
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 15:24:32 GMT

I don't know how many of you use these tubes, but I had a bad experience 
last night on a ride with a group of friends.  About 4 miles into the ride, 
I flatted.  This wouldn't have been such a shock, except for the fact that
it was my rear tire, which is the only I had one of the self-sealing tubes
in.  For the record, both tires had Mr. Tuffy liners in them, and this was
the first flat I've had since installing them in the spring.  I took the
tire off, and looked at the tube, no obvious damage.  I pumped the tube
up to see where the leak was, and was shocked to find it taking air and 
holding it... until I grabbed the stem and air started leaking from a cut
at the base of it.  

The only structural difference between the normal specialized tube (that I 
replaced this wonder-beast with) and the self-sealing appears to be that the
regular one has a steel stem, with a locking screw to hold it against the rim,
the other (more expensive) sealer has just a plain rubber stem with no
retainer.  The cut appears to have been caused by wearing against the rim
hole, probably when pumping the tire up over time.  I was pretty annoyed,
having paid about 4 times as much for the tube, I expected better.  That
should have lasted a lot longer, IMHO.  Anyway, I put on the regular spare
tube and hurried on to get back with the other riders.  

I think it's safe to say that unless Specialized changes the design on these
tubes, I've bought my last one.  Besides, it appears that with the regular
tubes and tuffies, you can ride for virtual 'forever' without a flat unless
you hit a piece of dynamite.  I think the extra bit of weight is worth it
in exchange for changing flats all the time.  

-- 
Randy Howard            _o	    @'s: jrh@dell.com
Dell Computer Corp.     \<,	    !'s: ...!uunet!dellunix!jrh
______________________()/ ()______________________________________________
Superusers should wreak havoc only by accident.
-- Maurice J. Bach "The Design of the UNIX Operating System"
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: josh@Happy-Man.com (Joshua_Putnam)
Subject: Re: Hubs built for straight spokes
Keywords: break flange hub spoke wheel
Reply-To: Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com
Organization: Happy Man Corp., Vashon Island, WA 98070-7399
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 19:18:30 GMT

In <1992Sep1.045541.2408@beaver.cs.washington.edu> pardo@cs.washington.edu (David Keppel) writes:

>Today in the trusty rusty bike shop I saw hubs with ``flanges'' built
>for elbow-less headed spokes.  The ``flange'' is an N-pointed star
>with N equal to 1/4 the total number of spokes.  Each point has `depth'
>as you look at the side (axle stub) of the hub.  That `depth' is
>drilled with a pair of holes, perpendicular to your axle-side view.
>Each hole is drilled to point tangentially from the flange to the rim.
>Each hole is countersunk for a spoke with a head but no elbow.

This sounds like Pulstar, a California company.  Their ads
are full of typos, and make claims about "greatly improved
lateral and tortional rigidity without added weight."  The
only real advantage I see in the system is that they claim
you can build wheels and replace spokes without removing
the freewheel or cassette.

>The guy at the shop said the goal is to reduce spoke breakage.  He says
>most spoke failures happen at the elbow.  He said the design seemed
>reasonable to him: it seemed to him like it addressed a real problem,
>namely occasional breaking at the elbows, but there was nothing to say
>either way whether it actually solved the problem.

I suppose it solves it by definition, since there are no
elbows at which the spokes could break.  Whether that
means the spokes really last longer is another matter -- I
have no data, but I doubt it is significant.

>I'm curious if anybody knows more about these designs.  I note a few
>things:

> - I suspect there's more material in the ``flanges'' than in regular
>   hubs.  If some of that were put in to the spoke at the elbow, it
>   would probably reduce elbow breakage.

According to a review in the October _Mountain Biking_, a
28 hole hub with skewer weighs 190 grams.  They also have
a strange looking solid axle that works as a
quick-release, which they claim allows a stiffer,
larger-diameter axle.

At $120 a pop, I'll stick with conventional hubs anyway.
-- 
 Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com    Happy Man Corp.  206/463-9399 x102
 4410 SW Pt. Robinson Rd., Vashon Island, WA  98070-7399  fax x108
 We publish SOLID VALUE for the intelligent investor.  NextMail OK
Info free; sample $20: Send POSTAL addr: Solid-Value@happy-man.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: klee@wsl.dec.com (Ken Lee)
Subject: Re: Altimeter comparisons
Reply-To: klee@wsl.dec.com
Organization: DEC Western Software Laboratory
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 92 23:18:05 GMT

|> In the case of the Casio, temperature is significant.
|> Sitting at my desk today, the altitude reading increases
|> more than 150 feet if I take off the watch and let it cool
|> to room temperature (72 F).
|> 
|> Does anyone know if the Avocet has a similar temperature
|> sensitivity? 

I would expect the watch-altimiter to have fewer problems temperature
than one attached to your bike.  Your watch is attached to your wrist,
which is a fairly stable heat source.

-- 
Ken Lee
DEC Western Software Laboratory, Palo Alto, Calif.
Internet: klee@wsl.dec.com
uucp: uunet!decwrl!klee
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tomk@netcom.com (Thomas H. Kunich)
Subject: Re: top five innovations
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 92 22:56:00 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)

In article <1992Aug25.202307.16373@nas.nasa.gov> border@wilbur.nas.nasa.gov (Ryan A. Border) writes:
>
>So Jobst, what's your beef with Drop-In's?

If I may make a comment: one of our club member weighs about
190 lb.s -- that is marginally lighter than me. while riding 
over a fairly smooth railroad track he had his drop-in bend
over about 20 degrees. Of course he tried to straighten them
to get himself home. The bar broke off.

At Hellyer Park, during a long race, one of the competitors
went for the sprint to the line for a prime. The left side
of his drop-in broke off clean and of course he rolled right
over the bike. Amazing that no-one else hit him!

One bar breaking is a defect. Two breaking is curious. Three
breaking makes it a bad design. What do you want to bet that you
don't hear a lot of other stories from this?

I'm getting the impression that most of this super light stuff
is getting much too light. It has reached the point at which even
small quality control errors are causing failures and I don't want
any failures on my bikes. I have enough scars already.
From: knee@prodigal.psych.rochester.edu (Chip "Workin' Man")
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Sealed cranks
Keywords: cranks bikes bicycle tech
Date: 1 Sep 92 21:46:16 GMT
Organization: University of Rochester (Rochester, NY)

In article <vic.715339480@vulcan> vic@vulcan.anu.edu.au (Glenn Dickins) writes:
>chumphre@comp.vuw.ac.nz (Craig Andrew Humphrey) writes:
>
>
>>---------
>
>>Hi, I'm having a few problems with the crank on my Giant Iguana (1990 I think).
>>Because of the holes in the frame (for welding) water is getting in the frame and
>>running down to the crank, thinning the grease and splashing powder rust
>>everywhere.
>
>>I've been told by a friend the you can get sealed cranks (and hubs) that
>>eliminate problems like this.  He recomended a crank by a German company called
>
>>Does anyone else have any experience of sealed cranks?  What recomendations can
>>you make?
>
>
>Yeah i have same problem with my cranks on my
>Giant ATX760 :( its really anooying
>
>My friend has problemn with his ATX770 like
>is this a giant trademark i have to service my cranks every week
>so they dont go squeak sqeuak etc and damage themselves any more
>than what they are
>Anyway i would be interested to know if sealed cranks work

As the somewhat perturbed owner of a 1990 Giant Boulder, I'd like 
to know if sealed cranks work also.  I've already replaced the 
Rapidfire shifters after they fell apart, as well as half the paint
and all of the stickers.  Plus, my cranks have to be tightened and 
maintained about every week or they squeak. 
  
-- C. Knee
From: camlau@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: MTB:  How to not trash the rear derailleur?
Date: 2 Sep 92 14:39:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <87612@netnews.upenn.edu>, vinson@shiva.seas.upenn.edu (Jack Vinson) writes...
><BtwpoB.Dx2@acsu.buffalo.edu> writes this in article camlau@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu
>>So, how are your derailleurs trashed?............
>>I am a bit curious since I have never trashed a derailleur even though
>>I have gone through more than my share of freewheels and rear axles.
> 
>Oops, forgot that part.  I'm sure I hit way too many rocks, trees and other
>"high density" objects, but the bike and I are usually going too hard to
>stop and take a look at what we've done to each other -- unless, of course,
>the trail wants me to stop.  
> 
>For the most part I don't send the derailleur into the spokes.  I do shift
>a lot, as seems to be the case in mountain biking.  The freewheel gets
>roasted riding in the mud, and probably too much shifting.  The last one went
>when I spent an afternoon crossing a creek -- seized up the freewheel
>mechanism.  The others have just gotten worn from too much use.

I dunno, Jack.  Sounds like you are an animal on that mountain bike
of yours.  Stay away from creeks and mud ? Buy derailleurs by bulk ? 

Personally, I had a lot of problems with freewheels getting trashed by
grit and water.  My new bike as Suntour XC-pro/ grease guard cassette
set up.  So far this set up has given me absolutely no problems after
500 off-road miles.  Of course, I haven't spend a whole afternoon 
bathing with my bike in a creek.
**bj**  
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: blokhead@leland.Stanford.EDU (Darren Pakying Lum)
Subject: GRIPSHIFTERS?????
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 92 14:40:06 GMT

I am looking to buy a Univega mountain bike with gripshifters 
today.  This is the first time I've ever seen or heard of the 
gripshifters.  I need more background on them and opinion on
how good they are or if they have any problems.  Please email
me....Thanks a lot!!

Darren
From: camlau@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (**bj**)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: I Can't See
Date: 27 Aug 92 18:49:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <1992Aug27.162008.14837@athena.mit.edu>, aviator@athena.mit.edu (Joakim Karlsson) writes...
>I got tired of bugs, rocks, dirt, and branches in my eyes, so
>I bought some protective eyewear..... Slight problem: They fog up......
>.....Is there a way to prevent this? ....... 
>
> 
>We've had some of the hottest muggiest weather ever here in 
>the Boston area lately, so that may be a contributing factor.
> 
>....Joakim

Downhill skiers have this problem all the time.  Go to your local ski
shop.  They have a whole array of anti-fog clothes and treatments for
very little $ that you can apply to your lens.  That should solve the
problem.
**bj**
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech