HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: hethmon@hydra2a.cs.utk.edu (PAUL HETHMON)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: hardwood floor repair
Date: 28 Jan 93 14:24:48 GMT
Reply-To: hethmon@hydra2a.cs.utk.edu (PAUL HETHMON)
Organization: University of Tennessee, Knoxville - Department of Computer Science
NNTP-Posting-Host: hydra2a.cs.utk.edu

|> 
|> Thanks for the comments I've received on this (2 posts, 1 mail).  My
|> house, built in 1908, has pine (heart) everywhere and no subflooring
|> anywhere.  There are pieces missing from boards that previous owners
|> have filled with something (Plastic Wood?) and then waxed over.  It
|> looks real ugly.  I would like to replace the boards someday.  Is there
|> an acceptable way to do this without subflooring?
|> 
|> Liam Healy
|> 

What about cutting 3/4 plywood to fit between the floor joists
from underneath and bracing it using 2x4's attached to the joists.
While not elegant, with proper bracing, it would seem sturdy enough
and economical enough to use for the areas that need repair.

-- 
/* -------------------------------------------------------- */

   Paul Hethmon
   hethmon@cs.utk.edu
   615/974-6433

/* -------------------------------------------------------- */
From: ghandhi@bdrc.bd.com (Jamshed B. Ghandhi)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Table Saw Experiences
Date: 28 Jan 93 13:38:11 GMT
Reply-To: ghandhi@bdrc.bd.com (Jamshed B. Ghandhi)
Organization: Becton Dickinson Research Center


 Talking about the Delta Deluxe Unigard (new version of the old Uniguard) 

>Can you or somebody describe to the rest of us in some 
>detail how it mounts? I am sure many of us would be 
>interested in trying to fit the new guard to some 
>other saw, and would need to know where it mounts
>(e.g. How far from the blade? To an edge of an 
>extension table?) and how. If anyone has mounted one 
>of these to some other saw I think that would be good 
>to hear about: I would be interested in mounting one 
>on
>a Powermatic 63L, the Artisan's saw with 50" fence.
>Bob Wilson
>wilson@math.wisc.edu

Sure, I'll try.  To start with, this guard differs 
from the old unigard in that the vertical support is 
on the right instead of the left.  Keeping this in 
mind, the device includes a large, U-shaped piece of 
steel tubing ~ 2 in. OD.  The lower, long section runs 
along the back edge of the saw table. The bracket are 
designed to permit use with the Jet-lock type back 
rails or for use without rail in back as on my 
Unifence. (see diagram) 

         top of saw
      __________________
      I                I!
      I  side of saw   I!O <--guard support
      I                I



                   OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
                 OO   WW                    O
             OOOO                           O
      _______I_I___________________________ O
      I  X         X   IOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOXOOOO
      I  front of saw  I
      I                I

WW  mounting location for switch, light, and utility  
    basket 
X	mounting brackets for holding fence.

Three brackets are provided.  Two attche to the back 
of the saw itself.  My Contractors Saw came with two 
predrilled holes to mount a jet-lock fence to.  As 
long as the two holes are colinear, the mounting will 
work fine.  The third bracket is intended to be 
attached to the outer edge of an extension table.  
Mine is currently hanging in free-air.  It has not 
been attached to my extension table and is working 
very nicely, thank you.  I suppose if one were using a 
52" capacity rip fence, this bracket might be 
required.  Other than the reverse in geometry from the 
original Unifence, the basic design is identical.

The splitter is different, though.  A bracket must be 
screwed into the back trunion support on the blade 
side.  This attaches where the original factor fence 
attached for the Delta saw.  The bracket includes a 
nerled knobe quick release device allowing the 
splitter to be removed all-together and placed in a 
special slot on the utility tray located on the "arm'.  
You may have to drill and tap two holes in your 
trunion at the very worst.  This spitter is very 
different from the original Uniguard splitter which 
"retracted" under the table.

I hope this answers your questions adequately.

Jamshed B. Ghandhi
Computer Aided Engineering
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: NYW bashing; was 'HOMETIME'
Date: 22 Jan 93 16:56:46 GMT
Organization: LLNL

In article <lltbt2INN6se@news.bbn.com>, ddeutsch@bbn.com (Debra Deutsch) writes:
> 
> rlz@svl.cdc.com (Robert L Zalusky) writes:
> 

> What is a tool girl?
> 
> Debbie Deutsch
> 
> 

He probably means one of the ladies on the "Rigid" pipe tools calendar
wearing her quaint little plumber's costume.  Either my experience of
plumbers and pipefitters is small, or Rigid has found some very unusual
plumbers to pose for their calendar.  Maybe more woodworkers from the
distaff side will render that form of advertising less effective.  In the
meantime, it's nice to have you in the group.

Gary

Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-VMS-To: IN%"WOODWORK%IPFWVM.BitNet@pucc.PRINCETON.EDU"
MIME-version: 1.0
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Thu, 21 Jan 1993 08:45:13 -0500
From:         "Wile E. Coyote" <BBHULSEY@LIFE.UAMS.EDU>
Subject:      Re: grinder question

Greetings!

Michael writes:

>Where does one find hand or foot cranked grinders or grinding stones. I
>have been looking for a 1.5 - 3 ft diameter x 3 - 4 in width grindstone for
>several years with no luck (reasonably priced that is). The hand cranked
>units I've seen cost >$100.00.

I too would be interested in hearing about hand grinders.  I haven't seen any
advertised anywhere.  Any and all sources appreciated!

Along these lines, it seems like some enterprising soul could convert an old
bicycle or something to power a grinder.  Then you could sit down and use
both hands to hold on to the tool while you pedaled.  Also, has anyone ever
used a variable speed control on a grinder?  Seems like running grinders at
lower speeds would prevent overheating more easily.  The recent talk about
using a simple light dimmer has piqued my curiousity...

.......
:  o/ : Bruce Hulsey
: <|  : Univ. of Arkansas for Medical Sciences
: / > : internet: bbhulsey@life.uams.edu
:.....: bitnet:   bbhulsey@uams
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: Preston.Jones@launchpad.unc.edu (Preston Jones)
Subject: Is the Grizzley 24" Drum Sander worth 1100 Bucks.
Organization: University of North Carolina Extended Bulletin Board Service
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 22:39:51 GMT


Hey, I'm thinking about buying one. I do a lot of wide panel glue-ups.

So - like the Subaru ad says: " I got the money tell me what to drive" :-)

Thanks from anybody, that knows anything.  

Email Preston.Jones@launchpad.unc.edu
--
   The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the University of
     North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Campus Office for Information
        Technology, or the Experimental Bulletin Board Service.
           internet:  laUNChpad.unc.edu or 152.2.22.80
From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1993 01:59:15 GMT
Subject: Re: Polycarbonate prices (was: Re: want to drill and thread holes)
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis) writes:
>In article <4320145@hpcc01.corp.hp.com> gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz) writes:
>>   You want to use a little thicker material, but 3/8" ought to do it.  With
>>   3/8" polycarbonate, you will have plenty of strength.  Also, the stuff
>>   is does not pick up scratches like lexan or other types of acrylic.
>
>Just a slight nit.  Polycarbonate != acrylic.  Different type of plastic..
>Lexan is one trade name for polycarbonate.  Plexiglass is a trade name for
>acrylic.
>

  Just a slight nit:  I said that polycarbonate ("the stuff") does not
  pick up scratches like lexan or other types of acrylic.  The meaning
  of this sentence is that polycarbonate is not acrylic.
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Table Saw Experiences
Date: 25 Jan 93 16:41:18 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

biggersc@memstvx1.memst.edu writes:
>>>>
>>>>Is it possible that Delta means for "us" to put something on the
>>>>flanges of the switch?  It is not what I would call a standard
>>>>toggle switch since it has the flanges sticking up on both sides 
>>>>of the switch.  The flanges really hamper getting the switch
>>>>turned off.  I wish someone would come up with a good suggestion
>>>>on how to deal with the Delta "hidden switch."

I don't know about anyone else, but I had to reread your post in order to
figure out that you actually wrote something.  I'm in the habit of assuming
any lines preceded by one or more >s is included text.  But I didn't post
to talk about that, I posted to talk about the draft.

Oops, my apologies to Arlo Guthrie ;-)

That flange on the Delta is for a padlock.  You stick one through the holes 
on the flange, and noone can turn the saw on (or off, if you should happen
to put the lock on with the switch in the on position).  Remember that, although
it may well be the most commonly used shop saw, the Contractor's Saw was
designed for use by contractors (surprise, surprise).  So many of the "features"
make a lot more sense on a job site than in the shop (like a padlock on the 
on/off switch, lightweight extentions, no dust collection port, etc).  If
Delta were clever, they would make a CS equivalent designed for home shop use
(at the same price as the CS) with a few differences more apropos of the
home shop environment.

Dave

-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
"I look back with some satisfaction on what an idiot I was when I was 25,
 but when I do that, I'm assuming I'm no longer an idiot." - Andy Rooney
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: 9.6v vs 12v cordless drills
Date: 25 Jan 93 20:47:40 GMT
Organization: LLNL

In article <C17zDM.Mux@hfglobe.intel.com>, gregt@hfglobe.intel.com (Greg Tollefson) writes:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am looking into cordless drills.  What is the performance gain by
> going to the 12v cordless.  The cost adder is 20-30%.  Can both 
> handle 3" drywall screws into 2x4's?  Any other WOW.
> 
A lot of people have posted stuff about getting higher torque with 12 volt
as opposed to 9.6 volt driver-drills.  As a practical matter, they are
probably correct, since most drill makers assume that the public will
equate higher voltage with more "power".

This doesn't need to be true from a technical standpoint at all.  It just
depends on how the maker designed the drill.  By using thicker windings, the
maker can get more current at the lower voltage and therefore more torque.
Design, of course, is just a matter of tradeoffs made to produce a final
(maybe) well-balanced product.

What's the point?  The point is that you can't tell just from the voltage.
The maker may have made the higher voltage drill with higher torque, larger
batteries, and better gears, but you won't really know until you review
the specs.  Probably the maker assumed that you'd assume that higher
voltage meant a better product.  After all, not all purchasers are electrical
engineers.

So what should you look for?  Electrically, you want high numbers in the
following specs:  High torque *at* high rpm.  Long battery life.  These are
mutually exclusive, since if you have high torque at high rpm, battery drain
is ferocious.  The only solutions are more battery or a battery with higher
energy storage density per pound.

As far as high torque at low rpm goes, you can always get that by gearing.
What you can't get by gears alone is the ability to drive a hard screw fast.
So your major tradeoffs are battery weight and torque at high speed, assuming
you want reasonable battery life.

There are other considerations, such as convenience, battery charging speed,
and physical balance that may be significant to you.  I prefer the
Panasonic 12 with 15 minute charger for these reasons.

Gary

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: oexmann@convex.com (Carla Oexmann)
Subject: Drawers
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 03:06:22 GMT
Organization: Engineering, CONVEX Computer Corp., Richardson, Tx., USA
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by a user at CONVEX Computer
              Corp. The opinions expressed are those of the user and
              not necessarily those of CONVEX.

I'm in the middle of building a storage organizer for the garage.  I've 
gotten past the step of building the frame components, and have moved
onto the "build drawers" effort.  I've never made drawers before....

Materials : for the drawers I can use :
  Redwood 
    Pros : very pretty 
           doesn't bow/cup/twist
    Cons : expensive
           one of the books I read said stay away from it, as it's too soft.  
  Pine 
    Pros : cheap
    Cons : bows/cups/twists with great enthusiasm
           doesn't look very nice, even if I high grade to the max

  Lumbercore birch plywood
    Pros : cheaper than the redwood, and prettier than the pine
           dimensionally stable 
    Cons : can I cut dovetails in it ? 

Could I do something like use the plywood for the back and side of the 
drawers, and use redwood for the front, or would it be better not to 
mix materials ?  Any suggestions for something better to use ?

Planned procedure :
  1 : Cut sides, back, and front to size
  2 : Sand/scrape
  3 : Cut half dovetails using incra jig and router
  4 : Route grooves for drawer bottom ( 1/4" plywood covered with formica )
      grooves start at 3/8" and go up to 5/8", and are 1/4" deep
  5 : Finish using Watco Natural
  6 : Assemble

Thanks,

Ritual disclaimer : My opinion and mine alone !  Convex, as best I can tell,
doesn't have opinions, being a corporate entity...
Carla Oexmann        {allegra, sun, harvard, uiucdcs, ctvax}!convex!oexmann
Convex Computer Corp.  3000 Waterview Parkway P.O. Box 833851 Richardson, TX
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jrm@cbnews.cb.att.com (john.r.miller)
Subject: Re: Hey! Lets have a survey....
Organization: AT&T
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 15:40:28 GMT

Hi, I am at the beginning of a project to build kitchen cabinets. I have
been working on the plans with Autocad for about 2 months. I rendered the
cabinets in full 3D (first project I have done this way).

It's a lot of time in front of the computer to do this, but it has paid off.
I have found 3 design errors so far and corrected them "on paper". They would
not have shown up until I actually started building the cabinets. 

The cabinets are based on Paul Levine's method of building European cabinets
and do not employ face frames. They will use the full concealed E. hinges.
I am planning to make them out of 3/4" red oak plywood and solid walnut and
red oak where needed. The doors, for instance, are a simple panel of 3/4"
red oak ply enclosed in 1/4" x 3/4" walnut strips. A clear finish will
be applied when complete. The walnut and red oak are very striking together.
I have already trimmed the windows and built an overhead light fixture with
this techinque.

I have been equipping my shop for this project for ten years -- this has been
my "excuse" to buy more and more tools. The only problem is that 10 years
ago, I bought tools based on the particular method of building cabinets 
I had in mind at the time. Over the years, my ideas have changed and the
specific tool needs have changed. The net result is that I have several
major tools that won't be used for this project - at all! For example,
I bought a really nice door panel cutter set, stile, rail, etc. Since the
doors are now plywood panels, these tools will not see the light of day.
Live and learn......

My plan is to have the project complete before sailing season which is
the beginning of April. It's gonna be close!

				John Miller

				Columbus, Ohio
From: jp@hpuerca.atl.hp.com (John Pierce)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Hey! Lets have a survey....
Date: 26 Jan 93 17:52:43 GMT
Article-I.D.: hpuerca.C1H2zv.9Gw
Organization: the Atlanta Technology Center
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1.3 PL5

Just finished (both completed and sanded/watco'ed or varnished:

- The last of three bookcases in Doug Fir.  They were for schoolbook storage
  (we home school), so they didn't have to be fancy.  I experimented with
  joinery, finishes, etc.  They look OK for prototypes, but they're not
  something I would have in the living room.  Although they are better
  than most of the stuff in the stores.  Still, the doug fir tended to
  splinter on the dadoes.  But then, that's another subject....

- A woodcarving of a from-life maple leaf (done in oak...it's what I had,
  but I love the irony, anyway).  Finished it with Watco.  I'm pretty
  pleased.  Now I need real carving chisels, instead of just using bevel
  chisels.

In progress:

- None (whew)!  That won't last long.

Coming soon to a workshop near me:

- A simple full-size platform with drawer storage underneath.  Not exactly
  a Captain's bed, but similar.  I need to get it out fast and make it
  rugged.  It's going in the girls' room and they are pretty hard on
  things, so I don't see wasting effort to make it fancy.

- A Shaker-style bedside table for my wife.  She likes the style of the
  one Kelly Mehler did in the FWW video.  I will adapt it to fit her spot.

- A nice Queen-size nice of some sort.  I was thinking of a tapered pencil-
  post bed, but the "Windsor" bed in the latest FWW looks good.  I don't
  know about all the work involved in the laminations, though.

- Several refinishing jobs, including a maple coffee table, teak china cabinet,
  and mahogany veneer dining table.  (Your'e right...our house is a
  hodgepodge.  It's decorated in Early Whatsavailable style.)

- Two matching dressers that give lots of storage for not-much floor space.
  The leading design is something derived from Norm's chest-on-chest design,
  but with better drawer construction and trim.  I'm leaning toward cherry,
  with (hard) maple drawer slide bearing surfaces.



---
	#################ANY#OPINONS#HERE#ARE#MY#OWN####################
				John Pierce
			 Atlanta Technology Center
			  jdp@itpg004.atl.hp.com
			      (404) 916-8389
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stevenj@microsoft.com (Steven Johnson)
Subject: Restored drill presses
Date: 25 Jan 93 16:04:17 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp.
Keywords: restored drill press


Some time back, I posted a note about buying restored older drill presses
as an alternative to the Taiwanese models or the industrial-quality
Deltas/Powermatics of today.  Several people mailed inquiries for more 
information, and some of my replies to these people bounced, so I've
decided to just post the info for all to see.

I ordered my 17" Delta drill press from Design Workshops at 802-885-
4020 in Vermont (I think that's where they are).  A fellow by the 
name of Steve is the proprieter, and he's extremely knowledgable about
the Delta presses from the 1930's to present.  His firm locates Delta's
of 30's to 50's vintage, compeltely restores them (new paint, new bearings,
fresh adjustments, etc.).  I feel I ended up with a press much superior 
to the Taiwanese stuff but not costing $1500-$2000 like the industrial
grade stuff of today.

There are other outfits (curiously, they all seem to be in Vermont) that
do the same kind of thing, and Woodshop News and FWW sometimes carry
their advertisements in the back.  I can't speak for the other shops, 
but I am extremely pleased with the work Design Workshops did on my
press. It looks and acts new, the runout is better than I thought 
possible, and everything went together like a dream.

Design Workshops advertises Delta 14" models starting at $350 and
Delta 17" models starting at $950.  You might wonder "Why should I
spend close to $1000 for a 17" drill press when I can get one made
in Taiwan for less than half that?  I mean, who needs 0.00001" accuracy
anyway for woodworking?"  My only answer to that is that until you have
tried something good, you'll never know what you're missing.  I didn't
until I tried this press.  It's built like a tank, operates perfectly
smoothly, has greater depth of cut than the 17" from Taiwan, simply
real nice.

Give the restored press route a try if you're so inclined.  It's a very
nice middle ground between Taiwan and domestic of today.

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: smb@research.att.com (Steven Bellovin)
Subject: Re: NYW bashing; was 'HOMETIME'
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 22:51:42 GMT
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories

In article <1993Jan27.164627.21382@informix.com>, davek@informix.com (David Kosenko) writes:
> They are getting hoodwinked, then.  Norm always plops a strip of red tape
> over the manufacturer name (check it out on a closeup).  Of course, all us
> tool junkies know the brands by the color of the casings ;-).

Right, and that includes the stores.  A while back, I went into a local
tool store to buy a PC random-orbit sander.  They were out of stock,
because, as I was told, ``every time our friend on TV uses some tool,
we sell out the next week''...

I'd say the manufacturers are getting their moneys' worth.
From: mcbryde@navier.math.uh.edu (Jack Mcbryde)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How do I start with $500?
Date: 26 Jan 93 16:42:49 GMT
Article-I.D.: menudo.1k3pm9INN110
Organization: UH Dept of Math
NNTP-Posting-Host: navier.math.uh.edu

>>In article <1jptotINNcls@cronkite.cisco.com>, echi@cisco.com (Eric P. Chi) writes:
>>|> I plan to setup some equipments to build some bookshelf kind thing
>>|> for my study room and garage. I am wondering whether I should buy a table
>>|> saw or radial saw? Or do I really need those fancy equipments? 
>>|> Also if is there brand/model you can recommend? My budget is ~$500.

Lots of responses deleted. I don't really see how anybody can justify making
*any* recommendations without more information. What kind of shelve-type
things do you want to build. Stricly functional? Decorative? Hardwood?
Cheap lumber? Plywood? Do you want to make it out of standard lumber?

What is the deepest shelf you are likely to want? 12"? 24"? 36"? (makes a big 
difference - you probably won't want to get a radial arm saw if you want
to make 3'x8' shelves) What sort of projects might you want to do after
the shelves? (You might want to go with a tool that is slightly more
inconvenient for this project if it makes the next project possible.)

If you want to build bookshelves out of standard lumber (eg, 1x8's) I would
probably lean toward a radial arm saw. If you want to use plywood I'd lean
toward a table saw. In either case I'd look for a used one. (Or see if I
could borrow/rent/lease a nice one.) Depending on how decorative you want
them you may or may not want a router. Do you want adjustable shelfs or
do you want them to lie in a dado? 

later,
jack
--
jack      mcbryde@karazm.math.uh.edu    * All I ask of Thee, Lord
* Christ died for our sins.  Dare we    * Is to be a drinker and fornicator
* make his martyrdom meaningless by     * An unbeliever and a sodomite
* not committing them? - Jules Feiffer  * And then to die. - Claude de Chauvigny
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: rcordes@IASTATE.EDU (Richard L Cordes)
Subject: Re: Dust collector / whole-house vacuum system
Reply-To: rcordes@IASTATE.EDU (Richard L Cordes)
Organization: Iowa State University
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 14:14:00 GMT

I have a whole-house vacuum and when i was doing some remodeling it is
surprising how fast it fills up. I also have a dust collector and the rate it
fills up when doing planning you would have to empty the whole house vacuum 
quite a lot. 

                                      Rick CordesIn article
<16B62DE57.SCC@nervm.nerdc.ufl.edu>, SCC@nervm.nerdc.ufl.edu (Scott C. Crumpton)
writes:
> My garage is my shop and I need to get the dust under control.  I
> would also like to install a whole-house vacuum system.  Does anyone
> have any experience using a dust collector as a whole-house vacuum in
> addition to its intended purpose?  Or how about using a whole house
> vacuum as a dust collector?
>  
> ---Scott.    scc@nervm.nerdc.ufl.edu