HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: terry@eece.ksu.edu (Terry Hull)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: Custom Paw-print Shirts, Slacks, and Skirts
Date: 20 Aug 1992 17:21:34 GMT
Organization: Kansas State University
NNTP-Posting-Host: ralph.eece.ksu.edu

casey@well.sf.ca.us (Kathleen Creighton) writes:

>In any event, when I see frail elderly on the street and I think there's a
>*possibility* that the person will approach my dog (most do not), 

Yup.  I know the feeling.  People avoid my Rottweiler, who is very
friendly and wants nothing more than a good scratch behind the ears.
On the other hand, they pet my Border Collie cross without even
asking.  Stupid people.  The BC cross is the protective one of the
pair, but since she likes people, it is not a real problem.  People on
the street used to approach Wiz (Rott puppy) casually too, but now that
he is over 50 lbs, they are becoming more cautious.

>I put
>Annie in a "sit", hold on to collar close to the neck and continuously
>tell her to "stay down" (laws of physics--I can't hold her down physically
>with my arm).  

Two things here.  First, if the dog has a prong on, I suspect that you
could stand on the leash and control the dog.  If just standing on it
is not enough, stand on the middle of it and hold onto the end of the
lead.  Most dogs cannot pull a person off balance with the disadvantage of
a prong collar.  Second, please don't "continuously tell" the dog to
stay down.  It is the dog's job to remember what he is supposed to be
doing, rather than your job to continuously remind him.  
--
Terry Hull  -  terry@eece.ksu.edu
Department of Electrical and Computer Engineering, Kansas State University
From: williamsk@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com (Desperately seeking a major)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: Request for show info/experiences
Date: 21 Aug 92 06:42:01 EST

In article <2A92BDCD.11353@ics.uci.edu>, tittle@ics.uci.edu (Cindy Tittle Moore) writes:
> In <16ud6tINNqh3@agate.berkeley.edu> jwd@briones.ced.berkeley.edu (John Wilbrand Dahlgren) writes:
> 
>>I read the FAQ about showing dogs, but I still have a few
>>questions.
> 
>>1)   What is a "major"? Apparently you get more points for it.
>>     Is it a major win? or a major show?
> 
> A "major" is 3, 4 or 5 points.  The number of points at a particular
> show is dependent on the number of same-sex-same-breed dogs the dog
> competes against.  The number itself is dependent on the popularity of
> the breed.  As an example (the numbers are ball-park, but not way
> off), a female labrador needs to win best of breed or best of opposite
> against at least 95 other female labradors to get a 5-point major.  A
> female bloodhound, on the other hand, need only beat 8 other female
> bloodhounds.  This is due to the greater number of labradors competing
> in show.

I thought you were kidding, Cindy!  I just looked it up in my handy-dandy
liitle point schedule booklet and found out that it is 106 females for
a 5 point major in California and 9 for Bloodhounds.

Kim
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: bbrown@infonode.ingr.com (Bailey Brown)
Subject: take a Mastiff to work?
Organization: Intergraph Corporation, Huntsville, AL.
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 1992 16:11:08 GMT

kiesler+@andrew.cmu.edu (Sara B. Kiesler) writes:

>In my own case, I tend to anthropomorphize and therefore to believe that
>my dog would be unhappy crated all day.  He is a mastiff and comes and
>goes as he likes.  He has a dog door which he can use anytime he wants,
>and his own single bed mattress in the bedroom.  He is fine in the house all
>day, although often I take him to work.  (Your employer should be ashamed.)
>Sara

You must either have a very dog loving boss, or else you must be
the boss.

------------
Bailey Brown                               "Above all else, confusion reigns."
Intergraph Corporation                                  
bbrown@casca.b11.ingr.com                              Procol Harum
From: rasmussenc@vaxb.gbus.virginia.edu
Subject: biting at feet all the time!
Organization: Darden Center, University of Virginia
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 17:57:05 GMT

My mother wanted me to post this for her - 

She has a 4 year old female Bichon Frise who constantly bites at her pads.  
At first, Mom thought Milkshake (don't laugh :-), a little kid named her, 
and Mom adopted Milkshake as a two year old and never changed the name...) 
only bit at her feet when they were wet.  Now it seems that everytime the 
dog goes out and comes back in, she's biting at them.  When Mom took her to 
the vet for her yearly shots, she told the vet about it, and he basically 
said, "Oh Really?", and that was it.  Any ideas?

(If you want to e-mail directly to Mom, that would be great -- 
	KMM@galen.med.virginia.edu )

Thanks in advance!  -Chris
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: krieger@egnext3.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Karen Krieger)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: Floppy-eared G. Shep Puppy
Date: 20 Aug 92 19:25:50 GMT

In article <BtAAFE.41M@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu>  
prange@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Henry Prange) writes:
> I have a four-month old puppy with one ear up and the other decidedly  
not. I would appreciate advice on the liklihood it will stand on its own, 
> whether it should be taped, if so can I do it myself, etc.?

I got my GSD at four months old. Both her ears were down at the time. One  
did go up within a month, but the other did not. The breeder came to my  
house and this is what he did:
with old-fashioned pink sponge hair rollers, he removed the plastic part  
that would keep the roller in your hair and was left with the pink sponge.  
He put the sponge on a pencil to hold it (where the plastic used to be  
there's a handy dandy core). He then gooped caulking glue on the sponge  
(I'll need to check this for sure but it was some sort of household  
compound). He then put the sponge in the ear, wrapped the ear around the  
sponge, and holding the ear and sponge, pulled the pencil out. He then  
taped the entire ear with masking tape. After about 10 days, my dog had  
scratched off the tape, and the glue gave away, letting the sponge drop  
out and voila! a perfectly straight ear.
From: kjt34420@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Kristin J. Thommes)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: Spaying My dog
Date: 20 Aug 92 22:51:45 GMT
Article-I.D.: news.BtB0uB.n4J
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana

It is best to spay your dog when she turns 6 months old at the earliest,
or right after her fist heat.  This is not because of the risk of
pregnancy, but because spaying at this age will give her many health
benefits.  If spayed at this time, she will have about a 98% less chance 
of ever getting mammary tumors (breast cancer) which is, contrary to
popular opinion, malignant rather than benign.  She also will never have
ovarian cancer or pyometra (an infection of the uterus that can be fatal
if not treated).

Health benefits of spaying at 6 months of age decrease with every
subsequent heat period until the dog is 2 years old, after which there
are no benefits besides not having ovarian cancer or pyometra.


--
From: mlhb@mammoth.dr.att.com (Sky Warrior)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: Scaredy cat dog
Date: 17 Aug 92 23:10:16 GMT

In article <2drp026T1ei701@JUTS.ccc.amdahl.com>, bws20@duts.ccc.amdahl.com (Brian W Simmons) writes:
|> [Various letters about dogs afraid of the stairs.]
|>     I have been told that it is not a good idea for puppies of those
|> breeds prone to dysplasia (typically the large breeds) to go charging
|> up and down the stairs.  Since the expression of CHD is influenced by
|> environmental factors, this makes sense to me.  Any comments on this?
|> Any data? Does anyone think this is hokum?  Once a pup does figure out
|> the stairs, I have found it can be a challenge to deter them from using
|> the stairs.

CHD is chondodysplasia (sp?) not to be confused with hip displaysia, which is a
Malamute hereditary disease.  Both CHD and hip displaysia are hereditary and
cannot be influenced by environmental factors.

Now, I'm not advocating that you hurt a puppy, but you must be firm if you want
to teach him that going up and down stairs are ok.  (Of course if the puppy is
too small, then you have to carry him down).

If I recall, the original poster said that the dog was a full grown Beagle.  This
dog could quite easily walk up and down steps provide it was in good health.

-- 
-----------------------------                                              
SKY WARRIOR aka MLH Bonham  | "Good tea.  Nice House." -- Lt. Worf
mammoth!mlhb@druhi.att.com  |----------------------------------------------
mlhb@drutx.ATT.COM          | SKY WARRIOR RACING KENNELS - Coming to an
                            | Iditarod near you!
----------------------------- 
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: srb@atmosmips.jpl.nasa.gov (Susan Beutelschies)
Subject: To Allen French  Re:  Crate  training question...
Reply-To: srb@atmosmips.jpl.nasa.gov (Susan Beutelschies)
Organization: Image Analysis Systems Group, JPL
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 23:47:10 GMT

Allen,
   I tried to post to you directly, but I don't think I got through.
I've gotten several replies on this one.  Apparently, the protrusions
are so that you can put a wire mesh over them, so that if you have to
send the dog on a long plane ride or something, where (s)he wouldn't have
the opportunity to eliminate, (s)he could do so without having to lie in
it for the rest of the trip.  The brand I bought is VariKennel.  This
brand is supposed to have some sort of floor as an option, but I didn't
see one at the pet store where I bought mine.  A couple of people
suggested going to the hardware store and getting a piece of pegboard cut
to fit the crate, so that's what I'm going to try.

Good luck with your lab!!!
Susan
srb@atmosmips.jpl.nasa.gov
From: droland@milner.mitre.org (David A. Roland - Summer)
Subject: Puppy shot confusion
Organization: The Mitre Corporation - Reston, VA
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 15:10:04 GMT

Hi, I just got a new Dalmatian puppy, and I'm a little confused about the correct
time for my puppy to get her shots.  The breeder said she had had her
first set of shots and would need her next set of shots around now. Her first
shots were at 6 weeks, and she was wormed around then too.

According to the new puppy FAQ
>Your puppy should get the following vaccinations between 5-8 weeks of
>age: Distemper, Measles, and CPI.  

I assume this is what she got I have the exact medication and everything
at home but not with me now, and then it says:

>Between 14-16 weeks it should get
>shots for Distemper, Hepatitis, Leptospirosis, Parainfluenza, and
>parovirus (also known as the DHLPP shot), as well as being innoculated
>against rabies. 

it also says before that:

>This is why pups should be
>given a shot every few weeks (2 - 3 weeks apart and a series of at
>LEAST three shots).

The above 5-8 then 14-16 aren't 2-3 weeks apart is this just some of the shots
she should get or what?

She is 9-1/2 weeks now.  Should I or could I wait until she is 12 to 14 weeks?
When I will be able to get my vet back home to do the shots.  This seems to
be within the above time frame 14-16 weeks but not the 2-3 week apart limit.

When calling the local vets they say she just needs distemper or some say rabies
too, and some say worming also.  Is this what they say to people they think wouldn't know it was called DHLPP? (My wife called around, and she didn't have a copy of this faq when calling.)

So I am getting a little confused, any help would be appreciated.

-Al

Oh, thanks to whoever put together the faqs they have been extremely helpful
and very comprehensive.   Much more so than any of the books I have been able
to find.
 
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: pyron@skndiv.dseg.ti.com (Dillon Pyron)
Subject: Re: dogs and fire
Reply-To: pyron@skndiv.dseg.ti.com
Organization: TI/DSEG VAX Support
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 14:49:59 GMT


In article <1992Aug18.172250.16812@pbs.org>, dnoll@pbs.org writes:
>
>I am in the process of upgrading the smoke detectors in my house.
>This made me wonder what my dogs would do if there was a fire in 
>house.  Obviously, if we were home, we'd be sure to get them out.
>But what if there was a fire while we were not at home?

Shortly after installing our doggie door, we started drills with our pups.  My
wife or I would set off the detector and the other would chase the dogs out the
door.  We now run fire drills every few months, and they go out on their own.

My biggest fear is that Ivan can open doors (that swing away, he's not that
good :-) and I'm afraid that he might lock himself and Molly in the utility
room.

>
>Eventually we hope to have a dog door and would be able to teach
>them to go out when they hear the smoke detectors.  But until then,
>what?  If the house was on fire, would they "think" to jump out of
>a window, or would they die and break my heart?  
>
>I can't teach them to jump out of our windows when they hear the 
>alarm because all of our windows are too high and they'd be injured.
>But in the even of a real fire, I'd rather see them with broken legs
>than not see them at all!
>
>Anybody know what a dog would do?

Run around in circles and bark.  I'm sorry, it's cruel, but I've been to a few
fires with dogs locked in.  Pulled two out.

Let's talk about something nicer.  I may need a root canal.
>
>  --diana
>
--
Dillon Pyron                      | The opinions expressed are those of the
TI/DSEG Lewisville VAX Support    | sender unless otherwise stated.
(214)462-3556 (when I'm here)     |
(214)492-4656 (when I'm home)     |"Do something different, DISAPPEAR"
pyron@skndiv.dseg.ti.com          |  "DISAPPEAR"
                                     _A Day On Earth_
                                     Brave Combo

Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: amiranda@ariel.aero.org (Ann Miranda)
Subject: Need help writing Nasty Letter
Organization: The Aerospace Corporation; El Segundo, CA
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 23:21:39 GMT

    Hi all,
  
  	Well, the subject sort of says it.  Let me explain:
  
  	Recently my husband & I bought a female mini dachshund from 
 a local breeder.  (not an official breeder, just someone from the 
 newspaper who breeds dogs -- ie. part-time job, or hobby or whatever 
 you call them).
  	"Shelby", our baby, is AKC registered, and one of the many 
 reasons we got her was to provide an "outlet" for our overly studly, 
 horney male, AKC registered, beautiful, mini doxie. 
	 Anyhow, it turns out that  Shelby has mange, a skin disease
 which is caused by microscopic critters (parasitic mites).  
  	We first noticed the mange actually when we got her, as a small 
 scratch looking patch on her forehead.  But, we assumed it was just 
 a scratch.  A month later, when a bulge appeared in the same spot, 
 and kept growing, we became suspicious, and took her to the vet to 
 have it checked.  He took a skin scraping and saw the mites and lots 
 of eggs on her skin.  The vet told us that mange is passed from the 
 mother while nursing the puppies.  He said there is no other way 
 she could have gotten it.  I realize that the breeder had no guarantee 
 on her dogs, so we basically have no recourse against her.  The vet 
 told us she may not even be aware that the mother had mange (it could 
 be dormant).  (The mother actually didn't look mangy, although 
 she was pretty scrawny!)
  	 All I know is that Shelby is a BEAUTIFUL dog, with the 
 exception of the permanent, and ugly, hair loss patch on the top of 
 her head, and the other hair loss patches that are beginning to show 
 up all over her body.
  	And, I have to take poor Shelby to the vet every 2 weeks for 
 a mininum of 4 weeks, and possibly up to 12 weeks or until she is 
 cured, for midoban baths, at a cost of $30 per bath.
	And, the vet told us not to breed Shelby because, even if she
 is cured of the mange, the probability of her passing it onto her
 pups is high.
  
   	So, that brings me to the subject line.  I feel the need to 
 write the breeder and express my anger and disgust.  I don't expect 
 anything from her, but I think she should not be breeding that 
 particular dog, and trying to get the money out of the pups that 
 she is getting. (it seemed pricey to me, anyway ).
  	Does anyone have any ideas, comments, concerns, flames, 
 whatever else that could help me? I'd appreciate `em!
  
  					Thanks,
  						Ann
  
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: Stacey Curtis <sec@csc.canberra.edu.au>
Subject: Re: Muzzle Training?
Organization: University Of Canberra
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 92 23:05:50 GMT

In article <k4iNPB1w164w@cybernet.cse.fau.edu> ,
kika.bbs@cybernet.cse.fau.edu writes:
>After losing 3 remote controls, 1 CD, 1.5 photo albums, 6 text
>books, several plants, atleast a dozen magazines, and a variety
>of other objects around the house, I decided to muzzle our
>7 month old black lab while we are away for *any* period of
>time.   My question is... can dogs *learn* from having a muzzle?
>I'm hoping that after a few months of learning that he cannot
>chew while left alone, that eventually we can remove the 
>muzzle and he'd act as though he still had one on..  Is this
>not realistic?

Maybe.  It depends on the dog.  The destruction phase is just one of
those puppy things.  I don't know whether he'll grow out of it naturally
or whether you can attribute it to the muzzle.  We lost 1 waterbed
bladder, liner and sheepskin cover, 2 motorbike helmets, countless
sheepskin boots, countless shoes - left foot only for some reason, a
lounge suite, gosh just thinking back I didn't realise how much
destruction my dogs have cost me - Anyone want to buy my dogs ;-) .  We
never muzzled our dogs but were able to shame them into stopping by
walking into the house and inspecting for any damage and just
highlighting whatever was broken and talking in an angry voice, not
shouting plus we praised whenever nothing had been broken.  Now when we
have puppies over our dogs stop the pups destroying anything else.  It
worked for us.  I personally don't like muzzles and even though I've lost
a lot of stuff I'm happy with the way my dogs are.  It was my stuff to
lose.

Stacey
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: judym@col.hp.com (Judy Miller)
Subject: 4sale: AKC chow puppies (Colorado Springs)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 19:30:56 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division


This is posted for a colleague ... please don't email me!

For Sale:  AKC show quality chow puppies

$200 each
9 wks old 
2 male, one female
black with silver tips

phone:  (719) 748-3660
From: joe@sybase.com (Joseph Weinstein)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Pet Store = Puppy Mill!
Date: 17 Aug 92 16:19:58 GMT
Organization: Sybase, Inc.

A pet store "against" puppy mills is like those "responsible
drinking" ads from Busch.

No reputable breeder will sell dogs to or through a pet store.
Any normal breeder wants to know the dog owner, and maintain
contact to continue to find out more about the dog as it grows.
They need this information to judge how well they are breeding
to type, in character and health. By definition, anyone who
cranks out puppies without caring how they turn out is a puppy
mill.

Some puppy mills may be less tortuous than others, but they are
all devoid of breeding predictability.

joe

--
Joseph Weinstein  Sybase - 1650 65th Street, Emeryville Ca 94608
		  joe@sybase.com   sun!sybase!joe   510-596-3620
Disclaimer:	  This might not even be *my* opinion! I may have
                  changed my mind.
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: schalene@sequent.com (Schalene Dagutis)
Subject: Re: How to find breeders of non-AKC dog?
Keywords: breeders locating
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems Inc.
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 92 14:02:10 GMT

In article <19267@drutx.ATT.COM> mlhb@mammoth.dr.att.com (Sky Warrior) writes:
>
>My guess would be to first contact UKC.  Many non-AKC registrable dogs are
>registered through UKC.  Other possibilities would be to contact rare breed clubs
>in your area.  Ask your vet or local trainer for address and phone number.
>
This is a good, but haphazard way.  Each AKC operator knows about
different breeds.  The information is not available to everyone.  A
good example is when I called them about Cavalier King Charles
Spaniels.  The first operator didn't know anything about it.  I called
back on another matter, and asked the second operator and she knew.

There is a rare breed association.  I don't have the exact name and 
address but they do advertise in Dog World.  I'll try to get it and
post it to the net.

Also, many breeders of breeds not recognized by AKC advertise in Dog 
World.  Usually, the parent clubs do as well.

schalene


Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: emm@cbnewsj.cb.att.com (ellen.m.mcsorley)
Subject: re: dogs digging holes (and crickets!)
Organization: AT&T
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 16:15:41 GMT

A response and a question:

I found the best way to keep holes from being re-dug is to fill them
with poop when you clean the back yard, and put a thin layer
of dirt over it.  Dogs seem offended at the thought of digging
in such stuff.  Of course with won't work with ALL dogs!!

Since many of you have great suggestions on how to discourage
fleas and ticks from invading your house, anyone have any ideas
about CRICKETS?  I know they're not a pet parasite but they are
dreadful - yes, I'm a "bug coward."  They're too big to squish
(I get grossed out easily.)  Are they offended by moth flakes
or sevin??

Please write to me as I am not up to reading the net as often
as I "should"!  att!hoqub!emm

Ellen

Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: dadams@cray.com (David Adams)
Subject: Re: LIFE magazine and Puppy Mills
Reply-To: dadams@cray.com
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 14 Aug 92 15:28:02 CDT

In article 6484@cbnewsk.cb.att.com, king@cbnewsk.cb.att.com (joyce.l.king) writes:
|In article <BsyGpK.FAr@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu>, hoff@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu (Wildfire) writes:
|> Kimberly Laird <U30993@uicvm.uic.edu> writes:
|> 
|> >don't buy from pet stores, please.....
|> 
|> This reminds me of a question....Here in Champaign, there is a petstore
|> that claims it does not buy puppys from mills, and they have posted petitions
|> for people to sign to stop puppy mills.  To what extent is this sort of
|> thing a marketing ploy, and how much is legit?  I like to stop in and
|> look, although it will be quite a while before I can buy a dog.  (I have to
|
|The Pass Pets store at Castleton Mall (Indy) had the same thing..."We don't
|buy from puppy mills" and "Sign our petition to stamp out puppy mills."
|So I asked to see the places of origin of their puppies.  EVERY SINGLE
|PUPPY came from Missouri, Kansas, or South Dakota.  I don't know about
|South Dakota, but I know that Missouri and Kansas have always been hotbeds
|of puppy mills.  I don't mean to accuse anyone on the net of living in a
|backward state, but that was the situation in the past.  Humane laws were
|very lax.  
|


There is a chain of pet stores in this area with a policy I like.  They 
don't sell dogs.  They don't sell cats.  Just birds, hamsters, fish,
and every kind of dog paraphenelia imaginable.

---
--David C. Adams  Statistician  Cray Research Inc.  dadams@cray.com
___________________________________________________________________
       member--Minnesotans for Global Warming.