From: paul.graveline%travel@wugate.wustl.edu (Paul Graveline) 
Newsgroups: soc.culture.caribbean
Subject: CARIBBEAN TRAVEL ROUNDUP3
Date: 1 Sep 92 13:19:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Travel Online, St. Louis, MO
Reply-To: paul.graveline%travel@wugate.wustl.edu (Paul Graveline) 

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them available for sale.  
 
The  islands  are  very  easy to cruise. The weather's always great,  
there's  no  tide to speak of, you're never out of sight of the next  
island,  there's  no  fog,  the  winds  are  generally  constant and  
friendly,   and   there's  a  great  mix  of  fully  equipped  yacht  
facilities  and  isolated coves. From a cruising standpoint, the VIs  
are  crowded.  There  are many hundreds of boats plying a relatively  
small  area  of water, and you'll be hard pressed to find many areas  
where  you'll  be alone. This, however, can be part of the fun. It's  
all  up  to  you.  The  water  is  aqua  blue  and  the swimming and  
snorkeling   are   exceptional.   One  thing  though;  the  lack  of  
wastewater  holding  tanks  aboard and the subsequent direct pumping  
overboard  of  the  heads and sinks can result in some surprises for  
the  snorkeler especially in areas where many boats are congregated!  
Why no holding tanks? Maybe someone can tell us. 
 
We  sailed  out  of  St.  Thomas.  You need to go through customs to  
enter  the  British  VIs.  The  CYC  chart  shows  where the customs  
offices  are located. Bring a passport or driver's license and birth  
certificate  and  your  boat's  papers  with  you  and  it's  fairly  
painless.  There's a $4/person- /day cruising fee plus a few dollars  
misc.  fees,  and  you  can  check  in  and out in one fell swoop if  
you're  staying  less  than  7 days in British territory. BRING PENS  
when  you go to customs. They curiously didn't have more than one or  
two  at  the  office we were at, which can result in a long wait. We  
did customs in Soper's Hole, Tortola, and found it easy.  
 
Most  of the major harbors have moorings available, but they fill up  
fast.  The moorings are usually $10-$15/night, payable either at the  
marina,  a  local  business, or to a gentleman who comes around in a  
skiff  in  the  morning.  They will often also take your trash for a  
buck  or  two,  which  is handy. If you're going to be somewhere two  
nights  in a row, you may be able to leave your skiff on the mooring  
and/or  prepay to save it for the next night. This will free up some  
afternoon  time  for  having  fun  instead  of  hustling back to the  
harbor  to  get  a  mooring.  The  mooring  owners  seem to place an  
unhealthy  faith  in divinity or whatever keeping the boats swinging  
in  the  same  direction,  with the moorings typically placed closer  
together  than we found comfortable. When the wind slacks off things  
can  get  a  bit  dicey, but it seems to be the way they do it. Good  
cheer and nerves of steel will help.  
 
In  the  way  of  places  and  attractions,  we  found  Soper's Hole  
enjoyable.  Complete yacht facilities, a Pusser's restaurant, a post  
office,  the Jolly Roger nightclub, a neat shipyard, a small grocery  
store.  Check  out the ferry traffic, it's an interesting exhibition  
of men and machinery.  
 
Little  Harbor  on  Jost  Van Dyke is basically innocuous except for  
Sydney's  Peace  and  Love  Bar  and  Restaurant. Interesting mix of  
locals  and  tourists.  Check  out  the  decor.  Bring a T shirt you  
wouldn't  mind parting with and a business card with you and you can  
leave  your  mark  on  the VIs forever (or until the building's torn  
down).  I  won't  spoil  the  surprise with the details. Oh yeah ...  
practice your Limbo!  
 
Roadtown  on  Tortola  is  marina  city  with  little  to no room to  
anchor.  Get  a  slip  if  you're  going  to  park  for long or stay  
overnight.  Radio  ahead  so you'll know where to go once inside the  
breakwater.  The  locals are hard to understand on the radio, so pay  
attention.  You  may  have  to  wait in line to get into the harbor;  
it's  a  narrow entrance. We sent a skiff in to check out the layout  
before  we  entered.  It's  tight  maneuvering  and  can be dicey in  
strong  wind. Good tourist shopping, a great supermarket. Cruise the  
harbor  in  your skiff and check out all the boats. Some interesting  
stuff.  
 
At  Leverick  Bay, Virgin Gorda is the famous Pusser's complex. It's  
a  complete  but busy marina (get in early in the morning for water;  
the  hose  is  slow),  good superette, good tourist shopping, a post  
office.  Moorings  are  available. It's considered rude to leave the  
harbor  without  going  to  Pusser's  for  a Painkiller. You'll love  
them.  They're  rated  from 1 to 4 in levels of potency. Don't waste  
your   time  with  the  first  three.  The  Pusser's  restaurant  is  
excellent.  
 
Savannah  Bay,  Virgin Gorda has a great beach; postcard material. I  
wouldn't  anchor  there  overnight, but it's a great place for lunch  
on  your  way  to  or from Leverick Bay. Off limits to charters, but  
you  can  get  in along the west end of the beach if you're careful.  
Have  someone  on the bow watching for rocks; there's plenty of 'em.  
Once  through  the  reefs,  parallel  the  beach  for a good spot to  
anchor. Go out the way you came in. It's worth the effort.  
 
The  Rhone  is  a  shipwreck at the tip of Salt Pond Island that you  
can  view with snorkeling equipment. The brave can dive it. Moorings  
are  available  near  the wreck with dramatic scenery and landscape.  
There's no overnight mooring, but a good stop.  
 
Little  Harbor, Peter Island has a great small cove. Get there early  
for  a good spot. The water is murky and not very good swimming, but  
the   tropical   scenery,   the   wildlife,   and   tranquility  are  
unsurpassed.  No  moorings  or  services.  Tricky  winds  due to the  
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