HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: ravalent@mothra.syr.EDU (Bob Valentine)
Subject: Re: HELP! `88 Dodge Colt Overheating
Organization: Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 93 14:44:38 EST

In article <13873@malcolm> malcolm@Software.Mitel.COM (Malcolm Urquhart) writes:
>I own an 1988 Dodge Colt which has approximately 137000 km on the odometer.  The engine overheats very quickly so I think the coolant isn't circulating through the cooling system.  I've noted the following symptoms:
>
>- Only the top of the radiator gets hot
>- The heater isn't working
>- The engine overheats very quickly
>- The coolant level isn't low
>- The temperature here is -9 to -15 degrees Celcius but anti-freeze is OK
>- I've removed the thermostat but the above symptoms persist

  If this was a gradual problem over time:

   Is there ANY flow thru the radiator?  Disconnect the lower hose and
see if coolant flows FREELY thru the core. 
 
  If this occured suddenly:

    This is a long shot, but the lower hose might acutally be
collapsed or clogged.  Rare, but I've heard of it happening.

   If all the above checks out, I'd suspect it's time for a water pump
rehab...

                      -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                  --> ravalent@mailbox.syr.edu <--
From: forbesm@atlantis.CS.ORST.EDU (Mark Forbes)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: How hot can an exhaust manifold get ?
Date: 22 Jan 93 17:17:42 GMT
Article-I.D.: leela.1jpa7mINN286
Organization: OSU CS Outreach Services, Corvallis, Oregon
NNTP-Posting-Host: atlantis.cs.orst.edu

One thing to be cautious of. A red hot manifold, coupled with poor 
performance can indicate badly retarded spark. What happens is that the
mixture burns late (and inefficiently) and a lot of the total energy
ends up as exhaust gas heat instead of mechanical energy.

My 1966 Volvo 122 has had this problem a couple of times. If you don't
keep the distributor cam well lubricated, an extended run at high speed
(like a fast trip to Portland at 75 MPH, 85 miles) will wear off the cam
follower. This closes the point gap, and effectively retards the spark and
weakens it by inaccurate dwell. The car starts lousy, runs lousy, and just
before total failure is requiring nearly full throttle to maintain 50 MPH.

All that gasoline turns into energy, and it goes *somewhere*........
usually into making the exhaust system glow. It does dry the condensation
out of the muffler, though.........      :-)

Fortunately it's an easy fix, with the standard tool kit I always carry.

Owners of 27 year old cars are *by definition* auto  mechanics.

Mark G. Forbes | forbesm@atlantis.cs.orst.edu
Corvallis, OR  | 503 757 8416 work phone    | Hardware R & D
From: grego@bit.UUCP (Greg Sanguinetti)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Engine options 302 or 351?
Date: 25 Jan 93 17:00:50 GMT
Article-I.D.: bit.572
Reply-To: grego@bit.UUCP (Grego Sanguinetti)
Organization: BIT  Portland, OR

In article <5143.88.uupcb@chaos.lrk.ar.us> dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) writes:
>
>-> I Have A high mileage FORD 302 in my '84 BRONCO that is getting
>-> tired. When it goes, I'd like to either: 1)Rebuild the current engine
>-> (302) or 2)Replace the 302 with a 351. I've heard that's that's a
>-> straight boltup.
>
<deleted advice on the engine swap>
didn't see the original post. My brother-in-law runs a mail order Bronco
parts specialty shop in Medford Oregon called "Tom's Bronco Parts" I'm
sorry I don't have the number here but you could get it from information
(1-503-555-1212). His name is Tom Wimmer.

He swapped a 351 into his Bronco but as I remember he swapped a 302 back
in, or at least wants. He said that the 351 was too much power for the
wieght and small wheel base of the Bronco and made it more difficult to
control in touchy off road situations. BTW he has the 4-speed manual in
his. The 351 also accentuated the old Bronco suspension rocking. My old
Bronco bucked so much with the 302 I can see his point. The extra power
and wieght could make it alot worse.

Give Tom a call, he's always up for talking Bronco talk!
-grego
-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Grego Sanguinetti, Bipolar Integrated Technology | Water, water everywhere,
grego@bit.uucp or grego%bit%ogi.cse.edu          | but I'd rather drink
or bit!grego@ogi.cse.edu or ...!ogicse!bit!grego | beer.
From: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Fan belt falls off
Date: 24 Jan 93 11:42:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Ye Olde Bailey BBS - Houston, TX - 713-520-1569
Reply-To: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 


   >>>> >>>>       "Is the belt possibly coming off because the idler
   pulley doesn't >>>>enough tension?" >>>> >>>>Hmm, never heard of a
   serpentine belt flying off before.  Assuming all t >>>>pulleys are
   aligned and not wobbling, it seems like it must just be too
   >>>>Lautrec.  The tensioner should apply a fair amount of pressure to
   it, no >>>>taking up slack.  How many miles do you have?  Maybe the
   belt stretched >>>>the ability of the tensioner to compensate. >>>>
   >>>>While we're at it, the serpentine belt on my 2.8L V-6 has started
   to sho >>>>of little cracks between the grooves on the inside of the
   belt.  This is >>>>first car I've had with one of these.  The outer
   surface looks fine - no >>>>fraying, glazing, or softening.  Does
   anyone have a number for how long >>>>serpentine belts typically
   last?  I've got 52K miles on this one. >>>>

SAR>>>about 18K, give or take, I don't know what car you're asking about, but t
   >>>belts, hoses, etc on the Taurus are expected to last about 70K


Ok....FORGET THE MAINTENCE BOOK! When the sepentine belt shows cracks
ANYWHERE and there are more then 4 to a inch then REPLACE IT. That belt
maked everything work on most cars and you DON'T want it to break when
your turning a corner! Hoses have a average life expectancy of FOUR
years. They rot from the INSIDE OUT!!!! Most serpintine belts will
safely go 40,000-50,000 miles.
..
Now...on to whoever had the belt coming off...if that problem was with a
S10 or Mini Blazer with the V6 then take a REAL close look at the
aluminum POWER STEERING bracket. They are WELL known to CRACK which will
cause the pump to pull out of alignment when it comes under a load such
as in parking lot manuvers(sp). Other than this everything else said by
the other person is also suspect..
                                                        Don
..ps.
        Most maintenance logs show that the airfilter should be replace
        around 30000 miles....has anyone seen one that will stay
        sufficently clean for that long? I haven't.


 * SLMR 2.1a * I put spot remover on my dog....Spots gone!
                                              
----
+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Ye Olde Bailey BBS   713-520-1569 (V.32bis) 713-520-9566 (V.32bis)     |
|   Houston,Texas          yob.sccsi.com       Home of alt.cosuard       |
+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
From: pburke@vms.macc.wisc.edu (Peter Burke, MIC, 608-263-7744)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Jeep stuck, frozen puddle, how to free up?
Date: 27 Jan 93 19:45:30 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Wisconsin Academic Computing Center

In article <1993Jan27.172554.4043@aio.jsc.nasa.gov>, spenser@fudd.jsc.nasa.gov (S. Spenser Aden) writes...
> 
>Yea, and if you do take pictures and can get them digitized and made into
>GIFs, post 'em to alt.binaries.pictures.misc ... I think we'd ALL like to see
>this (laughing WITH you, of course ... ;-)
> 
>-Spenser

Time to resond to this thread:  The Jeep is freed up again, an axze and 
some salt plus 35 degree weather did it for us.  One slight tug with my 
truck (a REAL truck, Toyota ;-)) and the Jeep surface on solid ground.  
No pictures, since we did this in the dark after work.  I wnated to take 
some video shots and make a Quicktime movie out of it, but the fun part 
was already over (tearing his bumper in half the night before).  
Thanks for all the advice - the Jeep is in the Power-Wash today ;-)


Peter Burke                           | PBURKE@MACC.WISC.EDU 
Microcomputer Information Center      | PBURKE@Wiscmacc.BitNet
Madison Academic Computing Center     | 608-263-7744
1210 W. Dayton St., Madison, WI 53706 |
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: WHAT IS AN A-I-R PUMP ON A CHEVY CAPRICE ENGINE?
From: pzh@swan.dsto.gov.au (Paul Heuer)
Date: 22 Jan 93 08:21:09 CST

mgolden@cwis.unomaha.edu (Brian Golden) writes:
<< stuff deleted>>

>  Or if your state doesn't have an inspection law, and you are not too
>concerned about being legal, you can just take the damn thing off and
>get a shorter fan belt, and plug the holes in the exhaust manifold.  You
>will get a little more power this way, because the engine will not have to
>turn the AIR compressor.  Either way, it is not terribly difficult.
>  Option three:  Just disconnect the pully and get a shorter fan belt,
>so that you can reconnect it come inspection time!
> 
>Mike Golden - mgolden@cwis.unomaha.edu

DO NOT JUNK THE AIR PUMP!! 
The motors that use air pumps here in Oz apparently do not
react well to having the air pump disconnected. The after-market workshop
manual for my car (Gregory's brand) warns not to remove the pump or run the 
motor without the belt even for short periods of time.

I must say, my first reaction to pumping air back into the exhaust ports was
"what a stupid idea, I'll soon fix this".

Now can anyone tell me *why* the air pump shouldn't be removed??

Cheers,
Paul Heuer (pzh@aeg.dsto.gov.au)
-- 

Paul Heuer                                      E-mail : pzh@aeg.dsto.gov.au
Avionics Technology                             Phone  : +61 8 259 6453
Air Operations Division                         FAX    : +61 8 259 5507
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: alan@lancaster.nsc.com (The Hepburn)
Subject: Connecting lights on towed vehicle
Organization: National Semiconductor Corporation
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 17:17:24 GMT

I need some information on wiring a car to be towed behind a motorhome.
Specifically, can I connect directly to the car's existing stop/tail lights
or do I need to add auxiliary stop/tail lights?

Thanks for the help.

-- 
Alan Hepburn           "An ignorant person is one who doesn't know
National Semiconductor       what you have just found out."
Santa Clara, Ca              
alan@berlioz.nsc.com                              Will Rogers
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ll@faron.mitre.org (Leonard Lau)
Subject: Re: Oil Coolant Engines?
Organization: Research Computer Facility, MITRE Corporation, Bedford, MA
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 21:23:16 GMT

That's interesting.  Maybe that's why the engineers at Honda/Acura designed in
an oil filter casing though which engine coolant flows. At least in my '87
Legend.  Is this really necessary?  Are more cars being designed this way?
Or is it just marketing?  :-) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Steven J Orlin)
Subject: Re: Dweebs with air tools (was Re: brakes)
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 23:17:54 GMT

In article <C1L62x.Btz@boi.hp.com> kmcintyr@boi.hp.com (Kevin McIntyre) writes:
>Which reminds me of a guy in high school auto shop (some
>years ago :-) ) who would remove and insert spark plugs
>with an air impact wrench.  My buddy and I would just
>laugh our heads off!  Luckily he only worked on the
>teachers cars and not ours.
>                   --Kevin

Thank You!!!!!  I don't know how long its been since I laughed that hard.
I'm still wiping the tears!


steve
-- 
"Chicks with bricks come, chicks with blocks come, chicks with bricks and 
blocks and clocks come."
Orlin.2@osu.edu                   -Dr. Seuss
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: wesf@boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii)
Subject: Re: Subject: Radial tires on old car
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 19:20:30 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

Terry Quinn (tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu) wrote:

: Be sure to change all 4, or if only two, put the radials on the 
: rear axle only.  This is because radials have a steeper corning 
: force / slip angle curve, and putting radials on the front and 
: bias on the rear can cause the car to oversteer excessively (spin 
: out). 

Putting radials on the rear and bias on the front can do just as
badly.  Because of the sidewall flexing, it would be like driving
a forklift (rear steering) at a high rate of speed.  Bottom line:
DO NOT MIX RADIALS AND BIAS PLY TIRES!

Wes Fujii
________________________________________________________________
      ___   ___ ___ 
     /  /  /  //  /
    /  /__/  //  /    A real motor is an Oldsmobile Rocket 455
   /  HURST //  /     "This is NOT the new generation of Olds"
  /  /  /  //  /_______ 
 /__/  /__//  //  ___  \
          /  //  /   \  \       Wes "BANZAI" Fujii
         /  //  /OLDS/  /          Boise, Idaho
        /  / \  \___/  /      wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com
       /__/   \_______/
From: koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: diagnostic code 17 on '88 dodge dakota
Date: 27 Jan 93 14:04:33 GMT
Organization: Naval Ocean Systems Center, San Diego

In article <C1Fx2F.JJ3@news.udel.edu> iseman@ravel.udel.edu (Stephen Early) writes:

>Anyone know what code 17 is?  Where can I get a complete list?

>Steve

answer #1 -- code 1-7 is 'engine temp too low' -- cure: replace thermostat

answer #2 -- you can get a complete list in the service manual

Walt K.
From: dwsmall@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu (Derek 'Enzo' Small)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: TH350 vs. TH400
Date: 25 Jan 93 07:13:39 GMT
Article-I.D.: miavx1.1993Jan25.121339.15258
Organization: Miami University Academic Computer Service"

>> Also, most torque converters are
>>also made specifically for the TH350, with just a few (with adapter
>>kits) for the TH400. 
> 
>      Unless you're talking about the 60's "switch-pitch" converter
> TH400, the TH350 and TH400 converters are the same.   I've yet to see
> a instance where they are different.  If they are, I'd love to know...

I think you'll find that that 400 converteres are suposed to have a
special fitting on on the face that holds a small trust bearing.  
You should stay away from using a 350 convert on 400's since the shaft 
can eventually "drill" a hole trough the front of the converter.  I
haven't heard of any shaft problems doing this and I've even talked to
a few guys who have simpley machined the end of the shaft off a bit
and had no trouble at all, though I don't recomend it.  From what I've
picked up the TH350 is a much more reliable and better shifting unit
than the TH400.  That is why there are so many more kits available for
it.  I've rebuilt several TH350's and only one TH400. The TH350 was
a bit easier to rebuild but not much.  Either one can be done in a weekend
easy.  Some TH400 manuals aren't kind enough to mention the 12 point
bolt in the middle of the valve body that hold the center carrier in
place.  It's a bear to spot too, it has a drilled head and looks like
a small port drilled in the center of a slightly larger port.  The 
TH400 can be made to shift about as well as the TH350 with some minor
work on the valve body.  With a tranny cooler it should be about as
reliable.  

Someone asked about a TH700 a while back and no one else offerd anything
yet so if you're reading... The TH700 is basically an electronically
controled version of the TH250 but for front wheel drive vehicles.  

-- 
*******************************************************************************
* Derek "Enzo" Small                   [san.dwsmall]@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu    *
*                                      Miami University, Oxford, Ohio 45056   *
*******************************************************************************
*                                                                             *
*   Long live Enzo Ferrari  !!!!!!!!                                          *
*                                                                             *
*   May his legacy nor his cars ever collect dust.                            *
*                                                                             *
*******************************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bill@ecn.purdue.edu (Bill Drake)
Subject: Re: Chevy small block ID???
Organization: Purdue
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 18:22:26 GMT

>In article <32mE02BN32NU01@JUTS.ccc.amdahl.com> efk00@cd.amdahl.com (Eddie
Kieger) writes:
>For obvious reasons, I am trying to find out what engine is in my truck. 
>I have a '65 chevy C-10 truck, that theoretically has a '74 camaro 350. 
>Looking at my Chilton's (the gerneric '72-'79 version), it states that 
>the engine ID was stamped on the motor for '72 & '73, and the ID was 

>Thanks in advance, Eddie
 
If it is a '74 Camaro motor it should have one of these codes on the stamping
pad. (10101XXX) XXX is the code location.

CMA ,also used for Chevelle, Monte Carlo, Nova and full size Chevy
CMC, also used for Chevelle, Monte Carlo, Nova and full size Chevy
CKB, also used Nova
CKH, also used for Chevelle, Monte Carlo, Nova and full size Chevy
CLJ (Z28 motor)
CKJ
CHU
CKD, also used for Chevelle, Monte Carlo, Nova and full size Chevy
CLK
CMT (Z28 motor)
CMS (Z28 motor)

some of these codes are used on '73 350's also.


Bill Drake   -   bill@ecn.purdue.edu

47 Ford Club Coupe////454/AT/3:00////  the "Fat Rat"
69 Camaro convertible////327/AT/2:73
From: nasa@suns.chinalake.navy.mil (Chris Adam Thomas)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Propane and Timed Electronic Injection
Date: 26 Jan 93 17:28:37 GMT
Organization: TnA Research


Propane has some advantages and some disadvantages as fuel for a 
high performance engine.  Timed electronic port injection of the
liquid would eliminate one of the disadvantages.  I've never heard
of injectors that would operate at the pressures necessary (and at
the voltages and currents available from the ECM) for port injection
of LP.  Has anyone else?
From: brims@bnkl01.astro.ucla.edu (George Brims)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Jeep stuck, frozen puddle, how to free up?
Date: 27 Jan 93 00:19:37 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: UCLA Dept of Astronomy

In article <1993Jan26.192303.2396@macc.wisc.edu> pburke@vms.macc.wisc.edu (Peter Burke, MIC, 608-263-7744) writes:
>My friend got himself stuck in a pretty deep puddle two days ago. In the 
>meantime the puddle has turned to solid ice.  
>...muscular attempt deleted...
> Is there a smarter approach?  

A couple of sacks of salt would help as long as there aren't environmental
reasons not to pickle this particular pond. The jeep will of course need a
really through hose down afterward! Otherwise take out the battery
and wait for spring (sorry).

George Brims
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kokerj@vccnw07.its.rpi.edu (James Matthew Kokernak)
Subject: Re: brakes
Reply-To: kokerj@rpi.edu
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY.
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 13:17:27 GMT

In article <44056@sdcc12.ucsd.edu>, wsun@jeeves.ucsd.edu (Fiberman) writes:
|> I just had the front brakes of my '84 Celica done - new pads and
|> resurfaced rotor.  The car brakes fine at low speed.  However,
|> when I am on the highway at 55+ mph, the car vibrates when I
|> brake.  At 60 mph it vibrates at about 2-4 Hz.   Can anyone give
|> an explanation for this?
|> 
|> -fm
|> 

Sounds like a warped rotor to me.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: scotth@apertus.com (Scott Hauck)
Subject: 1986 Chev Spectrum Hesitation
Reply-To: scotth@apertus.mn.org
Organization: Apertus Technologies
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 23:09:06 GMT

    1986 Chevrolet Spectrum. Not my favorite car (actually my wife bought
it before we got married and now with kids, well... she gets the Honda)
but it does get good mileage and seems to be an okay performer, except...

    *Severe* hesitation. At any speed, warm or cold. I can hold it steady
on the highway at 55 and it wants to hesitate. At idle and lower speeds it
kills. It's an automatic.

In addition to tune-ups, I've replaced all the plugs and plug wires as
well as the vaccum advance.
It just got recalled because it may not pass emissions standards in some
states, they installed a new PROM and the spark delay valve was replaced.
Unfortunatley, this didn't help at all (besides it passed emissions with
flying colors before the work was done).

I've had it looked at by a couple of mom-pop garages but they don't seem
to be able to figure it out (maybe they just don't want to look at it).

ANY IDEAS !?

I have an appointment with a Chevrolet dealer this coming week and I am
not that automobile literate (I can do small things...) and I'd like some
idea of what they're talking about (I don't fully trust dealerships).

Any and all help is truly appreciated.

Thanks.

--
Scott Hauck                                         (USA) (612) 828-0238
========================================================================
********** Reply to me via scotth@apertus.mn.org until further notice...
From: damong@wpi.WPI.EDU (Damon F. Gentile)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Replacing the Timing Belts after 60K miles??
Date: 28 Jan 93 02:23:55 GMT
Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute
NNTP-Posting-Host: wpi.wpi.edu

In article <1993Jan27.072943.12511@leland.Stanford.EDU> hongbin@leland.Stanford.EDU (Hongbin Isaac Liu) writes:
>How do you CHECK your timing belt at each oil change?
>Just like to find out. Thanks, Isaac

Well what I do is I open my engine compartment, and WOW THERE IT IS !!!
AMAZING !!! RIGHT IN FRONT OF ME !!!
From: tgl@slee01.srl.ford.com (Tom Leone)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Poor Economy--318 Mopar
Date: 25 Jan 1993 16:35:18 GMT
Organization: Ford Motor Company Research Laboratory
NNTP-Posting-Host: slee02.srl.ford.com
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5

Bob Valentine (ravalent@mothra.syr.EDU) wrote:
: In article <1jpakqINN7up@fmsrl7.srl.ford.com> tgl@slee01.srl.ford.com (Tom Leone) writes:
: >
: >For that matter, EGR helps fuel economy, too.  Was it removed
: >or disabled before the engine was installed?
: 
:     NOT!  Diluting the intake mixture with burned/partialy burned
: exhaust gas will only serve to reduce economy, since the fuel system
: will have to compensate by adding more fuel.  Just disconnecting the
: EGR _WILL_ reduce mileage, since the system will then tend to run rich.

First of all, the fuel system is designed to add only enough
fuel for the air coming in (especially with feedback from the
exhaust gas oxygen sensor in this car and all modern cars).

YES, EGR does improve fuel economy.  There are several reasons:

(1) Reduced "pumping work" needed to move gases from a low-pressure
intake to a high-pressure exhaust.  When you dilute the air/fuel
mixture with EGR, you must increase intake pressure (open the throttle
more) to get the same mass of air/fuel for the same torque.  Note
EGR is automatically turned off at wide-open-throttle, so you get
the same maximum torque/power.  

(2) Reduced heat transfer losses, due to lower combustion temperatures.

(3) Less dissociation in the burned gases, due to lower combustion
temperatures (allows fuller use of fuel's energy for useful work).

There may also be some benefit from better fuel evaporation and mixing,
due to hot exhaust gas in the intake.  The only problems are a decrease
in burn rate, and misfiring for excessively high EGR rates.

Reference: Heywood, "Internal Combustion Engine Fundamentals", p. 837-8,
including graph showing approximately 10% improvement in fuel economy
for 20% EGR (for a certain engine and speed/load point).

Tom Leone <tgl@slee01.srl.ford.com>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech