HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: mperlman@nyx.cs.du.edu (Marshal "Airborne" Perlman)
Subject: SEAT BELT LIGHT
Organization: University of Denver, Dept. of Math & Comp. Sci.
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 92 19:44:45 GMT

My seat belt light is strange.

90% of the time..it goes off when I put my seat belt on...just 
like it should.

5% of the time...it'll come on and stay on all day <i.e. through many
engine starts>

and the last 5% of the time...it will go off once i shut the engine down
and re start it...

i check to see if any wires were loose etc...but it all looked fine..
doesn't really both me..the cars runs better then new...but it just
can be annoying when im in a bad mood.

also...FYI...when you pull on the door handles when the doors are locked
the light will come on until you release the lever <i think its the cars
way of saying 'some one is trying to get out'>...
--
No part of Marshal may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system,
translated, transcribed, or transmitted, in any form, or by any means manual,
electric, electronic, electromagnetic, mechanical, chemical, optical, or
otherwise, without prior explicit written permission from CPEX development.
Xref: sparky rec.autos:20469 rec.autos.tech:11557
From: darkstar@toz.buffalo.ny.us (peter leone)
Newsgroups: rec.autos,rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: How to buy the book? (Was Re: '86 Subaru - reset EGR light, how?
Date: 21 Aug 92 21:25:26 GMT
Organization: The Tower of Zot - (716)691-3865

yuanj@ucbeh.san.uc.edu writes:

> In article <JqLRPB2w165w@toz.buffalo.ny.us>, darkstar@toz.buffalo.ny.us (pete
> > thomas@bit.UUCP (Thomas Walter) writes:
> >     I went through this on my 86' Subaru about a year ago. If you like do 
> > do your own service on your Subaru, I recommend that your go and get a 
> > copy of "How to Keep Your Subaru Alive" by Larry Owens. It's a great book 
> > that give ssimple instructions on how to fix amlost any thing on Subarus! 
> 
> How does one buy the book?  Where?  Cost?  Do you have to spsecify the year o
> your car when you choose the book?  We are curious!

        I bought mine a a Walden Bookstore at the local mall. I have also 
seen a copy of the book in the my Subaru dealer Part's Dept. Or you could 
contact:
                John Muir Publications
                P.O. Box 613
                Santa Fe, NM 87504
                (505) 982-4078

                                Peace,
                                        Peter Leone
Darkstar@toz.buffalo.ny.us                              Go Sabres!!!!!!!!
Prodigy: hdhx79b                         Buffalo Bandits MILL World Champs!
From: pod@suite.sw.oz.au (Paul O'Donnell)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: BMW Highway Patrol Car
Date: 20 Aug 92 23:20:43 GMT
Organization: Softway Pty Ltd

In <25605@dog.ee.lbl.gov> jtchew@csa3.lbl.gov (JOSEPH T CHEW) writes:

>>the BMW M5.  It has a 5.7 Liter hand built engine 

>Any Bimmerphiles know what goes in the M5?  I thought it was a
>hotrod version of the 3.5-l straight 6 found in the 535i. I had
>the impression that even their V12 is only offered in a 5-liter

The old M5 had a hotted up 3.5l engine, the new one has a hotted
up 3.7l version of the same engine.  5.7l sounds bogus to me.

>size, though McLaren seems to have found an extra liter rattling
>around in the same basic design.

Bzzzzt.  The BMW engine in the Mclaren is a brand new design and has
nothing to do with the 5l production engine.  The Mclaren press
release goes to great lengths to point this out.

>>and would market for $65,000(US).  

>That sounds more like the price for a regular, civilian M5, not for
>some kind of "special" (see above).

>>It registers to 180 mph but is expected to go more.  THe
>>officer driving says he doubts it will be long before he is required to
>>determine just how much more. 

Again, this sounds bogus.  BMW have a voluntary agreement with Mercedes
and I think Audi (but notably not Porsche) to limit _all_ their road
cars to 250km/h.  I don't think they are the sort of company to build
"police specials", especially for the Americans.

-- 
Paul O'Donnell                           |So Avon, what does it feel like
pod@softway.sw.oz.au                     |to be a god?" (Blake)
Softway Pty Ltd                          |
Phone: +61 2 698-2322 Fax: +61 2 699-9174|"I would think you'd know." (Avon)
From: david.bonds@cutting.hou.tx.us (David Bonds)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Stealth? NOT!
Date: 15 Aug 92 15:51:00 GMT
Reply-To: david.bonds@cutting.hou.tx.us (David Bonds)
Organization: The Cutting Edge - Houston, TX - 713-466-1525

GT>Pardon me Doug, 
GT>But according to the Car Rags, black cars DO have smaller
GT>radar signatures.  Radar is very similar to light, you just
GT>can't see it.;->

Really?  Guess that between the black paint on my SHO, and the Uniden
on the visor, I'm pretty safe (hopefully!  nothing yet...)

---
 . KingQWK 2.00 .6 # 145 . And Adam asked "What's a Headache?"
From: salil@igor.tamri.com (Salil Saxena)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: BMW Highway Patrol Car
Date: 20 Aug 92 19:16:53 GMT
Organization: TOSHIBA America MRI, South San Francisco, CA

In article <25605@dog.ee.lbl.gov> jtchew@csa3.lbl.gov writes:
>>the BMW M5.  It has a 5.7 Liter hand built engine 
>
>Any Bimmerphiles know what goes in the M5?  I thought it was a
>hotrod version of the 3.5-l straight 6 found in the 535i. I had
>the impression that even their V12 is only offered in a 5-liter
>size, though McLaren seems to have found an extra liter rattling
>around in the same basic design.

I believe the original poster was a bit mistaken about the engines in the
M5.  The US version has the Motorsport modified 3.5L inline 6.  Earlier
this year, the Motorsport folks increased the engine size to 3.7L, but not
for the US market.  This was to make sure the M5 was a match and perhaps
better in performance than the MB 500E.

>Plausible, but if he makes a habit of exploring the how-much-more,
>they'd better hope BMW's largesse extends to a lot of new engines.
>One-eighty is serious speed for a production car, especially a good-
>sized and aerodynamically dignified sedan like the 5-series. It's
>achievable (the AMG Hammer comes to mind, and I wouldn't be surprised
>if the owner of one of the Dinan-modified twin-turbo Bimmers had 
>disabled the rev limiter and stuck his nose into that stratum) but 
>neither cheap nor easy.  You can entertain yourself on a slow day 
>by looking at the big yellow table in the back of Car and Driver and
>plotting top speed versus sticker price -- what's that old crack 
>about "speed costs money, how fast do you want to go"?  
>
>--Joe

The 3.5L M5 was electronically limited to 155mph (general practice for German
automakers).  Without this limitation, I believe the 3.5L M5 has a top speed
around 165mph.  Of course the 3.7L M5, without the electronic limiter, may
well top out around 180mph.

-- 
Salil Saxena		Gotta love those British Roadsters - '91 Lotus Elan SE
Toshiba America MRI, Inc.		Internet: salil@igor.tamri.com	
South San Francisco, CA  94080		Phone: (415) 872-2722 x2283
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Opionions expressed are mine and only mine <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: kmukunda@news.weeg.uiowa.edu (Mukunda Kantamneni)
Subject: Re: "Factory Air"
Organization: University of Iowa, Iowa City, IA, USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 02:48:12 GMT

In article <Bt3nn7.F0y@acsu.buffalo.edu> ajay@acsu.buffalo.edu (Ajay Shekhawat) writes:

>Can someone tell me what is a good price for the A/C in a Civic LX?
>A dealer nearby is quoting me about $1200 for A/C in a 1992 Civic LX...
>
	A friend of mine paid around $850 for A/C and $350 for 
	AM/FM/Casette with four speakers when he bought his 1992
	Civic LX in November.  The retail price for A/C was $1050. 

	-mukunda
From: jamesm@lunch.austin.ibm.com (James Miller)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: scored rotors OK?
Date: 18 Aug 92 17:06:11 GMT
Reply-To: jamesm@lunch.austin.ibm.com
Distribution: rec
Organization: IBM AWD; Austin, Texas


Pardon me if this is an FAQ, but I can't find a rec.autos.tech.faq list.

I recently put new pads on the front disk brakes of an '88 Camaro a few
thousand miles *after* it should've been done.  It was down to the rivets on
one side and down to the one pad's steel mounting plate on the other.  (Very
ugly -- little sparkly flecks from the plate all over the wishbone, tire rod
end, etc., and blue burnishing on the plate itself from the heat.  The old
pads didn't have those little sheet metal 'screechers' that are supposed to
audibly warn the driver that replacement is necessary.)

I took the advice of the parts guy and non-directionally scored the rotor
surfaces by hand with some 80 grit paper to cut any glaze and to give the new
pads a chance to seat better.  Neither rotor looked warped, but the side of
one rotor had some scoring from the rivets, and one side of the other (the one
which had been chewing on the pad mounting plate) was scored pretty much all
across -- 1/64" - 1/32" deep grooves about every 1/16" - 3/32".

Was it stupid not to have had the rotors turned?  What's the worst case
scenario here (total brake failure?  instant warp-o-rama and rotor
replacement?), and how likely?
--

_________________________________________________________________

  James Miller -- developing Unix software at (!) IBM -- Austin
_________________________________________________________________

  Internet:  jamesm@voyager.austin.ibm.com
  ibm?net:   jamesm@lunch.austin.ibm.com
  VNET:      JAMESM at AUSVMQ
  yaknet:    512 838-1608
  UPSnet:    11400 Burnet Rd., IMAD 9541; Austin, Texas 78758
_________________________________________________________________
From: borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Octane ratings
Date: 19 Aug 92 15:21:39 GMT
Organization: Hewlett Packard Company, Spokane, Wa.

In rec.autos.tech, electro@matt.ksu.ksu.edu (Eric L Patterson) writes:

>How would I go about figuring the optimum octane rating for my vehicle?
>Thanks

Read the owners manual :-).


Donald Borowski    WA6OMI    Hewlett-Packard, Spokane Division
"Angels are able to fly because they take themselves so lightly."
                                       -G.K. Chesterton
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk (Codesmiths)
Subject: Re: Automotive Products Trade Shows?
Cc: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Reply-To: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1992 22:33:50 +0000


> Does anyone know the names of any automotive trade shows?

> What is the name of the big mama trade show for the automotive
> products industries?


In the UK, AutoTech is worth a look. Not many car makers there, but a
lot of component makers & production/test equipment makers (like
myself, occasionally).

It's held every two years (odd numbers) in mid-November, at the
Birmingham NEC. Trade only, but you can always blag your way in with
advance tickets in most of the trade mags.


My personal favourite is MetCut, again at the NEC in April. I just
love to watch big power presses & laser cutters in action 8-)


          Andy Dingley    dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
From: george@mech.seas.upenn.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Tire speed ratings ?
Date: 14 Aug 92 13:42:06 GMT
Organization: University of Pennsylvania, Mechanical Engineering


:GT+4 P205/55VR16. Have they stopped putting the "V" on the tire size? What I 
:got from tire rack says P205/55R16, then in smaller letters "89V". My 
:original tires also have the 89V, but have the "V" in the size designation 
:as well. Can I assume that the tire I got is actually V rated even though 
:the  "V" is not in the size designation on the tire?

i have a set of goodrich tires, similarly marked ( no 'v' in the size,
but a small v elsewhere )  Judging by the price i paid, i am confident
that these are not 'v' speed rated tires.

Anybody want to guess what that "89V" stands for?
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk (Codesmiths)
Subject: Re: New type of belt?
Cc: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Reply-To: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1992 22:33:45 +0000


> I just got my alternator belt replaced and the new belt doesn't look like an
> ordinary belt.  The inside part of it was notched on purpose.

The notched belts are much better.

It reduces noise, it makes the tension adjustment less critical, and
it reduces power lost in making the belt flex - you've probably
noticed how much more flexible the new belt is.

It doesn't affect friction - the surface material is just the same.

The drawback is that there isn't much room for the strengtheing plies
anymore. The materials technology to do this in the limited space
available has only been available comparatively recently.

          Andy Dingley    dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: eap@leland.Stanford.EDU (Eric Perozziello)
Subject: Re: Premium gas to clean engine?
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 92 01:58:18 GMT

>
>I am perfectly aware of the fact that using premium gas in an ordinary
>engin won't improve performance, but my repair manual ("How to Keep
>Your Honda Alive...", an excellent book BTW), says that it's a good
>idea to occasionally fill up with premium. They say this will clean 
>up the engine (from carbon deposits?). So, what does the net think about
>it? 
>

Many gas co's use the SAME additive package in all octanes. I can't
tell you all of them, but I DO know that TEXACO uses the same additives
accross the board.   TEXACO is a fine fuel, and IMHO, will give the 
least problems for FI cars.
From: rakoczynskij@gtephx.UUCP (Jurek Rakoczynski)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 195/50/15 vs. 205/50/15
Date: 19 Aug 92 19:58:22 GMT
Article-I.D.: gtephx.1992Aug19.195822.22485
Organization: AG Communication Systems, Phoenix, Arizona

In article <1992Aug17.035216.28664@nezsdc.icl.co.nz>, derek@nezsdc.icl.co.nz (Derek Tearne) writes:
> In article <1992Aug14.103223.2686@kth.se> love@stacken.kth.se (Love Feuer) writes:
> >I spoke to an friend of fmine, who used to do development for Pirelli 
> >in the seventies, about low-profile tyres.
> >
> >He warned me about increased stress on the wheel-bearings if you change to
> >205's. Since the wheels stick out further from the car any force
> >on the outer end of the wheel will have a much higher impact on the bearings 
> >than it would have if you drove around with thinner wheels.
> >
> >Nobody else have repeated this warning though, so I don't know how serious
> >it is. One should be able to calculate the difference in stress on the bearings
> >given all the data about the bearings and tyres.
> 
> I have heard this warning related to Landrovers and other off road vehicles.
> People who fit them with wide tyres are putting extra stress on the wheel
> bearings etc.  This is even more important if the vehicle is to be used off 
> road where there will be greater stresses placed on the wheels. 

Wider tires, by themselves, do not effect bearing loads, other than if
you generate slightly higher cornering g-loads.

The real affect is when you change rim offset.  Then you change
bearing loads.  The actual affect and limits of bearing load differs
for each front end design.

-- 
Jurek Rakoczynski, AG Communication Systems, POB 52179, Phoenix, AZ. 85072
UUCP: ...!{ncar!noao!enuucp | att}!gtephx!rakoczynskij  Voice: +1 602 581 4867
Inet: gtephx!rakoczynskij@enuucp.eas.asu.edu              Fax: +1 602 582 7111
Inet: /DD.UN=J.RAKOCZYNSKI/O=GTE/PRMD=GTEMAIL/ADMD=TELEMAIL/C=US/@sprint.com
From: rakoczynskij@gtephx.UUCP (Jurek Rakoczynski)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: RMI-25 cooling system treatment
Date: 18 Aug 92 16:33:22 GMT
Organization: AG Communication Systems, Phoenix, Arizona

In article <12130049@hpmwga.sr.hp.com>, jefftb@hpmwtd.sr.hp.com (Jeff Brown) writes:
>  This product claims that it should be used w/ ethelyne glycol anti freeze
>  but when antifreeze gets old it loses its corrosion fighting stuff. they claim
>  this puts it back. 
>  Also, I don't think that antifreeze raises the boiling point of the coolant.
It does!

>  Isn't that a function of the system being pressureized to 12- 16psi?
So does raising the pressure!

-- 
Jurek Rakoczynski, AG Communication Systems, POB 52179, Phoenix, AZ. 85072
UUCP: ...!{ncar!noao!enuucp | att}!gtephx!rakoczynskij  Voice: +1 602 581 4867
Inet: gtephx!rakoczynskij@enuucp.eas.asu.edu              Fax: +1 602 582 7111
Inet: /DD.UN=J.RAKOCZYNSKI/O=GTE/PRMD=GTEMAIL/ADMD=TELEMAIL/C=US/@sprint.com
From: John_A_Pham@cup.portal.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Dura Lube
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 92 00:21:32 PDT
Organization: The Portal System (TM)
Distribution: world

Does anyone know anything about Dura Lube?  The ad shows that
Dura Lube outperform Slick 50, Mobil 1, Penzoil, and others

John
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: Premium gas to clean engine?
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 92 05:41:53 GMT

Eric Youngblood () wrote:
: 
: There is no additional energy in premium gasoline. regular no-lead has the same
: energy as premium.  Octane only refers to the burn characteristics of the fuel.
: This includes rate of combustion, ignitability, etc...
: 
:  
: The best benefit premium can add in this dept is keeping the fuel injectors clean
: so they can properly atomize the fuel for efficient combustion. Of course if you
: have a carburator then who cares as even premium forms fuel varnishes.
: 
: Bottom line : if your engine has a problem with regular grade (pings etc...) then
: switching to a higher grade could help. If your engine runs fine on lower octane
: then higher octane wont help.

The Volvo in question uses a Bosch EFI system, with a knock sensor.  The timing
is advanced until knock is detected, then backed off, ad. infinitum.  This way,
the output is optimized to the available fuel.  Seems we just had a thread on
this...if you have a knock sensor, better fuel will mean better performance.  If
not, don't waste your money unless you get knock.

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.
hinz@picard.med.ge.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Electrical Question: Multiple Batteries?
From: derek@nezsdc.icl.co.nz (Derek Tearne)
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 92 06:15:09 GMT
Organization: Fujitsu New Zealand

In article <CMM.0.90.0.713813115.siegman@Sierra.Stanford.EDU> siegman@SIERRA.STANFORD.EDU ("Anthony E. Siegman") writes:
>Anyone out there with experience on using, and recharging, multiple
>batteries in a vehicle?
>
>My son is a small contractor, one of whose vehicles is a big old parts
>van.  The van gets driven to a job site, then sits immobile for 3
>weeks, holding job supplies and a communications radio for the job
>crew which is left on 8 hours/day.  This is too much for the regular
>battery; after 3 weeks it's dead.
>
>Proposal: Install a heavy-duty (marine?) battery for the radio, plus
>an AB switch.  Drive to the site on the regular battery, then switch
>to the heavy-duty backup.  When it's time to drive home, switch back
>to the regular battery, start the truck, and drive home.  Recharge the
>heavy-duty battery either with a 110 V trickle charger at home, or by
>switching back to it after the engine is started.

You can fit an extra battery and charge it from the alternator using
a split charge relay.  These should be available from any Caravan (trailer
/mobile home) centre or accessories vendor and don't cost very much.  Hella
and Lucas both make good units. This handles charging both the main and 
auxiliary batteries without having having to switch over or anything like 
that.  Wire some sockets from the auxiliary battery and run the equipment 
from these.  You can now run the auxiliary battery as flat as you like 
and still be able to start the vehicle.  If your auxiliary battery runs low
just go for a couple of hours drive!  

I have had a setup like this with internal and external sockets (made by 
Hella) to run lights and equipment from and a neat little fuse box for 
the auxiliary circuits.  

If you are regularly running the auxiliary battery flat then you may need
a 'leisure' battery as these can be run flat without bending plates etc.
They cost more though.  Again a camping/mobile home place should be able
to give you specific advice for your needs.


-- 

Derek Tearne. -- derek@nezsdc.icl.co.nz --  Fujitsu/ICL New Zealand --
From: imam@crayola.rutgers.edu (Adil S. Imam)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: SENTRA Wipers, help...
Keywords: Nissan Sentra Windshield Wipers Relay
Date: 20 Aug 92 07:24:31 GMT
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.


The wipers and the windshield washer on my 85 Sentra died.  The
technician at a local workshop disconnected the wiper motor.  He then
connected a probe (tester?  Its other end was connected to the
battery) for a second or less to the different wires in the cable
which was originally connected to the motor.  He then rejoined the
cable to the motor and the wipers worked!  I was pretty happy about
the quick fix.

According to him the intermittent wipers on the car use some kind of
relay and that relay was not working properly.  According to him, the
wipers might not work the next time I turn them on or they might work
properly for years.

Later that day, as I was going home, the wipers (and the washer - as I
later discovered) suddenly died - after running for about 10 minutes.
:-(   So, I think, I should replace the relay.

Now my questions are : 	Is his diagnosis about the relay correct?
			If it is correct then where is it located and how
			can one replace it and how much does it cost?

Any responses would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
-Adil
-- 
Adil Imam
Computer Science,
Rutgers University,
New Brunswick, New Jersey.
From: borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 15:20:27 GMT
Subject: Re: Gas driers - which ones are bad?
Organization: Hewlett Packard Company, Spokane, Wa.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

In rec.autos.tech, arup+@cs.cmu.edu (Arup Mukherjee) writes:

>I remember reading (several months back) in this newsgroup that
>certain types of gas line driers could be harmful to the fuel system 
>because they contain some chemical that attacks rubber. It was also 
>mentioned that other products that use some other chemical are safe. 
>I was hoping that someone could remind me what the two chemicals in question
>are.

Many gas line drier products are just plain methanol, which can attact
rubber and even metal.  The better products (though less frequently found)
are isopropyl alcohol.  This stuff is more benign, and and carry more water
as well.  It also is a good fuel injector cleaner

>Also, on a separate note - can water in the gas cause pinging? (No, my car
>isn't pinging but...) I noticed that one of the brands of "dry gas" I looked
>at claimed to stop pinging...

Methanol (and I think isopropyl alcohol too) is a high octane fuel, and so will
reduce pinging.  Although water is not a fuel, if mixed with fuel, it will
also help prevent pinging.  This has to be done carefully--you can't just
dump water into your gas tank.


Donald Borowski    WA6OMI    Hewlett-Packard, Spokane Division
"Angels are able to fly because they take themselves so lightly."
                                       -G.K. Chesterton
From: al@qiclab.scn.rain.com (Alan Peterman)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: SURVEY: Home mechanic's favorites
Date: 16 Aug 92 21:00:10 GMT
Organization: SCN Research/Qic Laboratories of Tigard, Oregon.

In article <1992Aug16.041711.10782@nezsdc.icl.co.nz> derek@nezsdc.icl.co.nz (Derek Tearne) writes:
>
>Triumph Herald/Vitesse.  The whole bonnet(hood) opens up forwards and the 
>engine is just sitting there completely accessible just begging to be 
>worked on...

Yeah I had a Herald convertible.  The engine begged for repairs whether
the bonnet was open or closed.  And the darned rear swing axles bent
at every other pothole.  Good thing I liked working on cars!



-- 
Alan L. Peterman                                 (503)-684-1984 hm & work
                       al@qiclab.scn.rain.com
It's odd how as I get older, the days are longer, but the years are shorter!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech