HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Fuse box question - can't find the right fuse...
Date: 16 Oct 92 05:00:01 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <james.719172194@wrs.com> james@wrs.com writes:
>I've just moved into a duplex that has a fuse setup instead of a box
>with circuit breakers.  There're two fuses, arranged vertically.  This
>morning, I wanted to cut power to the bedroom so I could replace a
>power outlet.  So, I unscrew the top fuse.  Turns out that one
>controls the kitchen, living room, and bathroom.  I pull out the
>bottom one, assuming that would cut power to the bedroom, but no such
>luck.  The lights and outlet still are live.

>So, what should I do?  Is it possible that the bedroom isn't connected
>to the fuse box in the house at all?  Should I worry about the
>mysterious fuse that doesn't seem to control anything?  I can cut
>power to the bedroom by going to the outside fuse box and flipping the
>lever that cuts power to the whole unit, but I'm a little woried about
>not being able to find the fuse for the bedroom.

Only two fuses for the whole unit?  This seems more than a little
skimpy.  Even the oldest systems I've seen have had at least 4
in a "main panel", and usually a couple of extra ones around somewhere.
How old is this duplex?  Do you have an electric stove or dryer?
(means at least another 2)

First - look around for another fuse box.  Look very hard ;-)
There might be fuses in the outside box, or just inside where it
enters the house.  Try tracing the main wires coming in if you can.

Back in the old days, people were a bit fast and loose with the
distribution of power around duplexes.  Particularly after converting
an old single dwelling into a duplex.  I've encountered situations
where a branch circuit off one panel goes through the wall to
the other unit and powers their lights.  This is awkward.
And very much contrary to current electrical code.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: hale@btree.uucp (Bob Hale)
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 92 19:26:00 GMT
Organization: Brooktree Corporation
Subject: Re: Propane regulator failure?
Summary: 
Followup-To: 
Distribution: usa
Organization: Brooktree Corporation, San Diego
Keywords: 

In article <bill.718390194@chaos.cs.umn.edu> bill@chaos.cs.umn.edu ( Hari Seldon     psychohistorian ) writes:
>In <5627@naucse.cse.nau.edu> rrw@elden.cse.nau.edu (Bob Wier) writes:
>
>>stated in terms of "inches of water" (I've seen it elsewhere).  I'm not
>>familiar with this type of unit - does it imply since 14 psi (std atmos
>>pressure) will support a water column of about 30', is a 12" W.G. equivalent
>                                                  ^
>inches not feet (") as in barometric pressure ya know.
>


Feet is correct for water.  One atmosphere is about 32 feet of water
and is about 30 inches of *mercury*.

Bob Hale                                      ...!ucsd!btree!hale
...!btree!hale@ucsd.edu                       ...!ucsd!btree!hale@uunet.uu.net
From: jonathan@cs.pitt.edu (Jonathan Eunice)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Asko appliances?
Date: 8 Oct 92 02:34:37 GMT
Organization: University of Pittsburgh Computer Science

In thumbing through a "kitchen and bathroom sourcebook" (actually,
lots of ads bound and sold for $30), I found an ad for Asko clothes
washers and dryers.  They're said to be stackable, very
water-efficient, very quiet, and sturdy.  Apparently they're of
Swedish design.  Of course, this was an ad, which is expected to say
good things about the product.  But they do look interesting.  Does
anyone own or have experience with this brand?
From: Timothy.P.Stammers@dartmouth.edu (Timothy P. Stammers)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: RODENT FROM HELL !!!!!!
Date: 7 Oct 92 16:32:32 GMT
Article-I.D.: dartvax.1992Oct7.163232.25247
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH
X-Posted-From: InterNews1.0a5@newshost.dartmouth.edu

I'm posting this in hopes that someone out there has an idea for the
predicament I'm in.  Last winter, our attic was infested with flying
squirrels (no relation to Rocky). The problem with these are that they
are nocturnal and they would be racing around in the attic, in the
walls and in the ceiling, ALL NIGHT LONG.  We had many many a sleepless
night because of the racket that they made.  I eventually found where
they were getting in and out of and from there I managed to trap
(have-a hart and a rat trap) and to shoot (sorry) a dozen of them. 
Since spring, everything has been fine, until a couple of months ago
when there came another rodent, which I tend to think it isn't a flying
squirrel because it is acting differently.  What thisoine does, all
night long, is chews on the wood inside between the ceiling and the
floor and the noise it makes is enough to wake me up if I was sleeping
or prevent me from getting to sleep if he starts his chewing early
enough.  - I have closed off every conceivable place where the squirrel
could get in and out and it is still alive and well.  And worse, I
can't get to where it is at to put in a trap.  Does anyone out there
know of a way to get rid of this rodent from hell that is making my
life so miserable???  Please e-mail me if you have any ideas.  Thank
you very much in advance.   - Tim

Tim.Stammers@Dartmouth.edu
From: rrw@elden (Robert Wier)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: why don't we live in prefab concrete houses?
Date: 8 Oct 92 18:04:10 GMT
Originator: rrw@elden.cse.nau.edu

From article <Bvt4wz.2Au@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu>, by prange@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Henry Prange):
> Wood is probably still cheap and plentiful enough here. When I visited Israel
> recently, it was clear that most of the new construction was prefab concrete.
> It seems that, in addition to the thermal advantage of massive walls in the
> desert areas, the cost and shortage of wood there make it most practical.
   Sorry - can't resist                                     ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
       Concrete walls also provide some protection against stray shrapnel
   and mis - aimed incoming rounds... :-)



 - Bob Wier

  ---------- insert favorite standard disclaimers here ----------
                   College of Engineering
      Northern Arizona University, Flagstaff Arizona
  Internet: rrw@naucse.cse.nau.edu | BITNET: WIER@NAUVAX | WB5KXH
From: egreen@east.sun.com (Ed Green - Pixel Cruncher)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Tree Climbing: SUMMARY
Date: 13 Oct 92 16:36:53 GMT
Reply-To: egreen@east.sun.com
Organization: Sun Microsystems, RTP, NC
NNTP-Posting-Host: laser.east.sun.com

>Dear tree hugger, 

Ouch!  I've certainly never been called THAT before!  :^)

>I recall watching the lumberjacks topping trees using
>your technique and I always wondered what would happen if the tree split,
>rather than broke, while they were hugging (and belted to) the piece below
>the cut. 

I've never seen a tree split from a chainsaw cut.  The only split trees
I've ever seen are due to lightning or windstorm/toronado, in which
high winds take on some strange configurations.

To answer your question, I suppose it depends on the strength of the
belt buckle whether you would be cut in half (ugh!), or de-strapped, in
which case you *may* be able to climb down.

---
Ed Green, former Ninjaite |I was drinking last night with a biker,
  Ed.Green@East.Sun.COM   |and I showed him a picture of you.  I said,
DoD #0111  (919)460-8302  |"Go on, get to know her, you'll like her!"
 (The Grateful Dead) -->  |It seemed like the least I could do...
From: jeq@i88.isc.com (Jonathan E. Quist)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Tree Climbing: SUMMARY
Date: 13 Oct 92 16:29:01 GMT
Article-I.D.: i88.1992Oct13.162901.21087
Organization: INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation, Naperville, IL

In article <Bw2CMJ.EGq@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu> prange@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Henry Prange) writes:
>Dear tree hugger, I recall watching the lumberjacks topping trees using
>your technique and I always wondered what would happen if the tree split,
>rather than broke, while they were hugging (and belted to) the piece below
>the cut. Not a pretty sight, I would guess. The thought has always been 
>enough to keep me from trying it. Maybe you were lucky?


Luck has nothing to do with it.  The behaviour of wood in standing trees
has been understood well enough for hundreds of years to develop basic rules
about where to cut when, to have the branch or trunk break off safely.
In short, the idea is to control the split, before it happens.

Of course, if you're not a professional, and you're not scared enough
by the prospect to read, re-read, and read again a decent description
of where to make those cuts, then you should hire a professional who
knows when to be scared.

Disclaimer:  Don't take my word for it - any other wood-bee lumberjacks
out there, please find at least a decent article if not book on
the subject, and understand the theory of what you're supposed to be
doing.
-- 
Jonathan E. Quist                              INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation
jeq@i88.isc.com  '71 CL450-K4 "Gleep", DoD #094        Naperville, IL
        There are many things a person should experience in a lifetime.
       Among them are an infant's first cry, and an infant's first laugh.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: eldred@rrunner.jpl.nasa.gov (Dan Eldred)
Subject: Re: Tree Climbing
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 16:41:18 GMT

In article <1as0snINNpc9@sixgun.East.Sun.COM> egreen@east.sun.com writes:
>Where can I get those spikes you strap on your boots, to climb
>telephone poles and pine trees?  Is there a mail-order supply for
>lumberjack type stuff?  I haven't been able to find anything local, but
>if somebody can point me to a place in the Raleigh/Durham area, I'd
>appreciate it.
>
>I have a very tall, very dead, pine, very close to my house.  I've had
>one estimate for $250 to take it down, PLUS $100 to haul it off!
>
>I can rent a bucket/crane/extender thing for ~$100, the problem being
>I'm not sure I can get it close enough, through all the other trees.
>My current plan is to simply climb it, and take it down in ~10 ft.
>sections, from the top down (yes, I've done it before, but in a cedar
>that had limbs I could crawl up/down;  this one is a telephone pole for
>the first 25 ft.).
>

You had better calculate the weight of a 10 ft section (assume density
of water, for starters) as in my experience trees weighs more than you
might think, and for safety each section should be something you
can direct with your arms in case it starts falling towards you.

	- Dan		eldred@rrunner.jpl.nasa.gov
From: egreen@east.sun.com (Ed Green - Pixel Cruncher)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Tree Climbing: SUMMARY
Date: 13 Oct 1992 13:48:26 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, RTP, NC
Distribution: world
Reply-To: egreen@east.sun.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: laser.east.sun.com

In article 3347@adobe.com, pngai@adobe.com (Phil Ngai) writes:
>In article <1bc142INNs4c@sixgun.East.Sun.COM> egreen@east.sun.com writes:
>>signaled my helper to start pulling the rope, and cut the opposite
>>side.  As the top 15' - 20' started to fall, I killed and dropped the
>>saw, squatted down, wrapped both arms around that tree, and hugged it
>>for dear life!
>
>So how far did the tree sway?

I was a little preoccupied to measure...  :^)

Actually, not that much.  The trunk was ~15" - 18" diameter at that
point, ~40' up, so it wasn't some wispy, swaying, bending pine.  It was
pretty solid.  It mostly "shook" more than "swayed."  Maybe it was me
shaking, it was pretty scary up there...

---
Ed Green, former Ninjaite |I was drinking last night with a biker,
  Ed.Green@East.Sun.COM   |and I showed him a picture of you.  I said,
DoD #0111  (919)460-8302  |"Go on, get to know her, you'll like her!"
 (The Grateful Dead) -->  |It seemed like the least I could do...

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: smb@ulysses.att.com (Steven Bellovin)
Subject: Re: GFCIs and the Garbage Disposal/Dishwasher outlet
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 13:26:44 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories

In article <1992Oct14.164824.26366@ms.uky.edu>, kherron@ms.uky.edu (Kenneth Herron) writes:
> Small problem.  Every $8 GFCI I've ever seen is only rated as a
> 15-amp outlet.  Both the disposal and the dishwasher need 20-amp
> outlets, I believe.

However, most GFCIs are rated for 20 amps pass-through.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: eliot@chutney.rtp.dg.com (Topher Eliot)
Subject: Re: Removing Old Caulk
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 92 18:33:30 GMT
Distribution: usa
Reply-To: eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com
Organization: Data General Corporation, Research Triangle Park, NC

In article <1992Oct9.223034.17222@porthos.cc.bellcore.com>, patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie) writes:
|> In article <1952@ncrsmg.DaytonOH.NCR.COM> jcoates@ncrsmg.DaytonOH.NCR.COM (Jim D Coates) writes:
|> 
|> >I'm getting ready to recaulk my windows. In all of the instructions for
|> >preparing the windows, it says "remove the old caulk". That's it - it
|> >doesn't tell you how.
|> 
|> Heat (either a heat gun or a propane torch) will soften the old stuff up.
|> Removal really requires something sharp and very stiff. I use an old wood
|> chisel that I don't care about if the job is small. If you have lots to do,
|> I would recommend a "hawkbill" knife, such as they sell for use in putting
|> down flooring. A utility knife with heavy duty blades is another option.
|> 
|> If you use a torch, use it sparingly and try to keep the flame on just the
|> caulk. Even a heat gun can crack glass if you're careless.

Are you folks talking about caulk (comes in tubes; used to seal, for example,
between a window frame and siding), or glazing compound (comes in a can or tub,
used to seal glass into the window frame?

For glazing compound, there exist removing tools that are sort of v-shaped
chisels.  I've never used one.

Working the glazing compound in your hands to warm and soften it makes it
a lot easier to apply.

-- 
Topher Eliot             Data General DG/UX Systems Administration Development
(919) 248-6371                                             eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com
Obviously, I speak for myself, not for DG.
misc.consumers.house archivist.  Send mail to house-archive@dg-rtp.dg.com
"Daddy, does Mount Mitchell have a name?" -- Tommy, age 4.
From: davel@booboo.SanDiego.NCR.COM (David Lord)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Refrigerator light
Date: 7 Oct 92 17:30:46 GMT
Reply-To: davel@booboo.SanDiego.NCR.COM (David Lord)
Distribution: usa
Organization: NCR Corporation, Rancho Bernardo

In article <JIMBO.92Oct5171528@amber.ssd.csd.harris.com> jimbo@amber.ssd.csd.harris.com (Jim Winters) writes:
>Hi!
>
>Our refrigerator has been killing light bulbs lately.  The fridge is
>about 5 years old, I guess.  I seem to remember replacing the light
>once or twice in that time.  However, in the last three months the
>light has gone out three times!  I replace it each time with a regular
>40W appliance bulb.

I had this problem awhile back. Turned out the light wasn't going off
when the door was closed. Appliance bulbs are intended to stand up
to extremes of temperature but they have a very short lifespan if
run continuously.
Xref: sparky misc.consumers.house:13500 ba.mountain-folk:309
From: gerhard@cs.monash.edu.au ()
Subject: evaporative cooling
Summary: evaporative cooling systems
Keywords: evaporative cooling systems
Organization: Computer Science, Monash University, Australia
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 01:28:04 GMT


I am considering having a ducted, evaporative cooling system installed in my
home. Can anybody who has such a system installed give me an opinion on the
following points:

1) Do they work well in a coastal location (I live in Melbourne, Australia)?
2) Are they effective on hot, humied days?
3) Do they cause a buildup of moisture on walls and furnishings?
4) Is air pollution filtered out, especially car fumes?

Any comments greatly appreciated.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Gerhard Fries                        Phone: +61 3 565 5188  Fax: + 61 3 565 5146
Monash University                    Internet: gerhard@bruce.cs.monash.edu.au
Department of Computer Science
Clayton, Victoria 3168 Australia

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: thearn@nmsu.edu (Tom Hearn)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Old Tile Adhesive (Tar) removal
Date: 8 Oct 92 16:31:00 GMT
Organization: New Mexico State University

I just did this.  I used some paste "adhesive remover" I got at the
home supply place (Jasco brand I think).  You pour it on, spread it,
let it sit for 15 min., and then wipe or mop it up.
Its messy and caustic, but it did work.
Tom Hearn
Department of Physics
New Mexico State University
Las Cruces, NM 88003
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: hess@boi.hp.com (Kevin C. Hess)
Subject: Re: Running Coax and phone lines
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 23:35:58 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1.3 PL5

Dave Daniels (daniels_d@apollo.HP.COM) wrote:
: I am in the process of having a house built with the
: second floor unfinished. I want to run coax cable and
: a telephone line to the second floor, before the drywall
: is installed. My question is, is it okay to run the cable
: through the same holes as the wiring for the electricity
: or is this against some kind of wiring spec. If I have to
: drill new holes I will, I was just hoping I could use the 
: existing holes.

In Boise, ID it is a big no-no.  You might also consider the fact that
toy will get 60 cycle hum on the phone lines from the romex (neither
are usually shielded - running them together will cause some hum on
the phone lines).  Your best bet is to drill extra holes. It'll take a
day, to do, but it is worth it.  

When we did this last year, we were faced with the opposit problem 
(running lines to an unfinished basement).  You might consider putting a 
2 inch diameter piece of PVC pipe in a first floor wall, running into
the second floor (possibly a linnen closet).  This will allow you install
extra wiring after the first floor has hadd all the sheetrock put up.

Cost was $5.00 for the PVC, and $3.80 for a 2.25 inch hole saw for my drill.

By the way, you *are* wiring for a burglar alarm, aren't you?  Even if you
don't intend to install one right now, putting the wiring in will save lots
of headaches and damaged walls later on - as well as add value to the home.
--
Kevin C. Hess                 The Hewlett-Packard Company
Network Printer Division      11311 Chinden Boulevard
Mail Stop 524                 Boise,, Idaho  83714-0015  USA
hess@hpbs907.boi.hp.com       (208) 323-3384

"There can be only one!" - Conner McLeod of the clan McLeod
"I will not be pushed, filed stamped, indexed, briefed, debriefed, or
numbered - I am not a number, I am a free man!" - Number 6
From: mja@philabs.philips.com (Michael Amato)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: How about corded power (drywall) screwdrivers?
Date: 7 Oct 92 20:29:48 GMT
Reply-To: mja@philabs.philips.com (Michael Amato)
Organization: Philips Laboratories, Briarcliff, NY 10510
Originator: mja@hercules


Now that a lot of bandwidth has been used up on drill recomendations, I need a
recomondation for a power drywall screwdriver. I picked up a Makita
catalog the ohter day and this only got me slightly more confused.

My requirements are as follows:

I will be putting up drywall for an addition (large - ~1000 square ft).
I estimate that I will have to put up more than 5000 square ft of sheet
rock - so a good drywall screwdriver will be a good investment. However,
after this is completed, I would like to use it as a power screwdriver
and nut driver.

Now Makita makes what they call a drywall screwdriver Mod# 6820V, 0-4000rpm,
variable speed, reversible, and weighs 3.0lbs. It is rated at 5.2 amps.

Makita also makes two screwdriver. Mod# 6802BV, 0-2500rpm, var. spd., rev.,
weighs 3.7lbs. and is rated at 4.8 amps. Comes with a nut setter, but I can
get a locator nose piece similar to two other  dry wall screwdrivers Mod#s
6800DBV & 6801DBV. So this will handle other chores, unlike the dedicated
drywall screw driver units. 

Questions: Do I need 4000rpm?

           Is the higher amp rating related to torque output?

           Will the extra weight of the 6802BV be a real nusance?

           Is there any real difference between the 6820V locator and
             the other two drywall scewdrivers?

           What about the 6805BV? Seem to be able to do both tasks also,
             but is even heavier and seems alittle fancier with the adjustible
             clutch - must run for more bucks.

           What about other manufacturers?
 
           Am I going overboard on this? Should I just get the cheapest drywall
             screwdriver and leave the other chores to other tools, like a drill?

Please feel free to e-mail or post. I am looking to purchase in the next few 
days, and I would like to here from people who use these things alot. If I get
a lot of e-mail (different from postings), I will post a follow-up.

Thanks in advance.


-- 
+-----------------------------------------------------------------+
| Michael Amato  DoD#0639 | "If pro is the opposite of con,       |
| mja@philabs.philips.com | then what is Congress"? - Will Rogers |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: jfinn@ll.mit.edu (Joe Finnivan)
Subject: Re: This Old House
Originator: jfinn@ll.mit.edu (Joe Finnivan)
Reply-To: jfinn@ll.mit.edu (Joe Finnivan)
Organization: MIT Lincoln Laboratory, Lexington MA
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 92 12:55:24 GMT


In article <1992Oct9.175148.10255@ryn.mro4.dec.com>, abbott@priory.enet.dec.com (Robert Abbott) writes:
|> 
|> In article <JEFF.92Oct9093530@claw.clearpoint.com>, jeff@claw.clearpoint.com (Jeffrey J. Griglack) writes...
|> >On 9 Oct 92 10:34:30 GMT, trb@cbnews.cb.att.com (tom.balent) said:
|> > 
|> >tom> I just saw it last night...I could not beleive my ears when the owner
|> >tom> said he has had a number of reators look at the house and appraise it
|> >tom> at $250,000!!!!!  Are prices that high in the Boston area?  
|> > 
|> >I saw it too.  I wish I had paid attention to what town they were in.
|> >I was a little suprised to hear that appraisal, but it could be that
|> >there is a larger lot there or something like that.  Prices could
|> >easily have been that 4 or 5 years ago (when I bougth my house :( ),
|> >but prices in this area have dropped such that I would find it hard to
|> >beleive that this was a $250,000 house.  He did say that there were
|> >much nicer houses in the area
|> 
|> The town is Lexington, which is one of the more expensive and desirable
|> suburbs west of Boston. You'd be hardpressed to buy any kind of house
|> for less than 200K in this town.
|> 
|> ------------------------
|> Robert K. Abbott
|> abbott@tps.enet.dec.com

Actually, the house is in Newton.

joe

jfinn@ll.mit.edu
          
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: ssh@allegra.att.com (syed s haider)
Subject: My dishwasher is overflowing again
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories, Murray Hill, NJ
Date: Sat, 17 Oct 1992 00:04:41 GMT

A few months ago, my dishwasher began overflowing.  I cleaned
out some gummy stuff stuck in the float and the problem
disappeared.  Now it's back.  The float's clean and doesn't
appear to be sticking.  Does anyone have any other suggestions?
Thanks.

Syed S. Haider
allegra!ssh
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house