HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jkk@aiai.uucp (John Kingston)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Screw sizes (was: U.K. (over)Pricing !)
Date: 13 Oct 92 07:41:35 GMT
Reply-To: jkk@aiai.uucp (John Kingston)
Organization: AIAI, University of Edinburgh, Scotland

In article <1992Oct9.081620.11605@news.jit.dec.com> diamond@jit.dec.com (Norman Diamond) writes:
>In article <7645@skye.ed.ac.uk> jkk@aiai.uucp (John Kingston) writes:

>>(and possibly U.S. screw sizes for tripods too)
>
>Are you talking about cameras made in the U.S. by U.S. manufacturers or
>cameras made in Japan by Japanese manufacturers but sold in the U.S.?
>Japanese manufacturers do not convert products to BRITISH measurements
>except maybe sometimes by special order.  Not cameras, cars, etc.
>Though for some reason TV screens are measured in diagonal "inchi"....
>Regardless, you probably notice a lot of focal lengths and film sizes
>and other stuff in mm, no?

Well yes, many UK measurements are given in feet and inches, others in metres
and millimetres, and some in chains, furlongs, hands, fathoms, or other
obscure units :-). My comment above was that U.S. tripods may not fit European
cameras (or vice versa); this was based on an item advertised in an American
brochure (Vienna Camera's, I think) for a converter which would fit a European
screw-size tripod to an American camera.

JK

John Kingston,                               | 
Knowledge Engineering Methods Group,         | The heart of the problem
AIAI, University of Edinburgh                | is the problem of the heart
E-mail jkk@aiai.ed.ac.uk, phone 031-650 2736 |
From: crawford@ben.dev.upenn.edu (Lauren L. Crawford)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Foggy photos
Date: 8 Oct 92 15:07:18 GMT
Organization: University of Pennsylvania

I've got a Konica TC, maybe 13 years old.

I've been getting photos lately with the lights too light and the darks
too dark.  They tend to look washed out most of the time, with halo
effects around light parts (i.e., a light sky will bleed into the
subject's head, making the outline of the head look fuzzy).  Sometimes the
photos are just too dark.  

At first I figured it was because I was taking them to a cheap place.  But
I took them elsewhere, and the same thing happened.  

I'm leaving tomorrow (Friday, Oct. 9) for a trip to New England, and I'd
like to be able to take some decent fall pictures.  I'm going to use slide
film to eliminate developer problems.  I'm going to try using a different
lens (I've been using a cheap zoom; I'm going to go back to using the
original Konica lenses that came with the camera).

Will these changes do the trick, or should I forget trying to take the
camera and get it serviced when I get back?  What do you think is wrong?

Thanks.


  

-- 
Lauren Crawford  //  crawford@ben.dev.upenn.edu

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: nataraja@rtsg.mot.com (Vel Natarajan)
Subject: Re: EOS - weatherproof?
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Distribution: rec.photo
Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1992 16:54:31 GMT

robert@sys.sweden.dg.com (Robert Claeson) writes:

>In article <26526@castle.ed.ac.uk>, hrvoje@castle.ed.ac.uk (H Hecimovic) writes:

>> Hi, does anybody has any EXPERIENCE using EOS (I have Rebel) in bad
>> weather - fog, drizzle, shower?

>My EOS-1 copes with heavy rainfalls very well. The Nikon F-4 doesn't...


>-- 
>------------------------------ END OF MESSAGE ------------------------------
>Robert Claeson                Internet: robert@sys.sweden.dg.com
>Data General AB                         robert@sys.dg.se
>Box 28                             CEO: robert@sys.sweden.dg.com:dg-smtp
>S-164 93 KISTA                     Tel: +46 (0)8-92 55 00
>Sweden                             Fax: +46 (0)8-751 36 22



Could you elaborate on how the F4 doesn't and the EOS-1 does?  After
seeing all the "hell and back" ads for the F4, I thought it would hold
up pretty well in poor conditions.

Vel
-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Vel Natarajan                    Motorola, Inc.
nataraja@rtsg.mot.com            Cellular Infrastructure Group
                                 Arlington Heights, IL
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: fsjfz@acad3.alaska.edu
Subject: Re: Pentax PZ-10 v.s. EOS Rebel II
Organization: University of Alaska Fairbanks
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 06:42:30 GMT

>>|> I've seen a lot of disscussion on Nikon and Canon SLR's,
>>|> but never have I seen any body talked about Pentax on the net,
>>|> which made me loose confidence in my new camera thinking that
>>perhaps
>>|> I had made a wrong decision. 

Of course, Pentax owners have easy to read manuals, and rarely have problems
with the camera, even if it's 15 years old, so there's little need to discuss
them on the net...
 
(sorry, couldn't resist...)
 
James Zuelow
FSJFZ@acad3.alaska.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: frank@truevision.com (Frank Loffel)
Subject: What are anemic sunsets?
Organization: Truevision Inc., Indianapolis, IN
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 05:55:25 GMT

American Photo writes in the November/December issue, on page 11:

"Let's say so long to 1992" .. "This was also the year of ANEMIC SUNSETS
and sunrises, according to several photographers who told us the 'sweet light'
of dawn and dusk is not so sweet. Most blame atmospheric junk from the Mount
Pinatubo eruption and the oil fires in Kuwait...."

Could somebody in the know elaborate what they mean? Is it the direct sunlight
or the twilight before sunrise or after sunset?

It seems to me that extremely clean air provides only a moderate red glow for
both direct sunlight and twilight near sunrise and sunset. Only when the air
is somewhat "dirty" the effect gets more pronounced and provides the dramatic
"red sand stone look". 

In areas like northern Arizona, before Sunrise, a "flat" red arch of red light
that blends in to blue sky appears where the sun is going to rise. There is
a rule that says the skinnier the red arch, the cleaner the air is.

The most incredible red glow I've ever seen was looking west down from a hill
over Salt Lake City, UT, after sunset. The city was in a red dome of light. 
I theorized that
the sun light passes very clean air west of the city before hitting a cloud
of pollution over the city causing the red glow.

Any comments?





-- 
-- Frank Loffel, Truevision, Inc., uunet!epicb!frank frank@truevision.com :-) --
-- "Shut up and pleasure me!" - Peg Bundy
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: rspeirs@javelin.sim.es.com (Ron Speirs)
Subject: Re: Index for Darkroom & Creative Camera Techniques
Organization: Evans & Sutherland Computer Corporation
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 18:30:34 GMT

In article <3830322@hpldsla.sid.hp.com> tonya@hpldsla.sid.hp.com (Tony Arnerich) writes:
>
>> Here's the offer:  I would be happy to share it with anyone who would 
>> want it.  Just send a blank diskette (3.5 or 5.25, DD is ok) with a self-
>
>How about an ASCII-only version that you can send out via email? I don't
>need any fancy formatting, and you'll save yourself a *lot* of hassle. I'd
>take a copy of that...
>
First, my apologies at not being more informed on encoding and encryption
methods (I'm really hardware-oriented).  On the suggestion of George Cross at
GTE Laboratories, I put the two index files thru UUENCODE and sent that to
him.  He then replied with this:
     "I have attached your index set up in Refer format (extended for 
      Endnote).  It can be easily imported to BibTeX also, browsed with
      numerous viewers.  Things I did, that you should point out to anyone
      who gets it - 
           subtitles are treated as abstracts (%X)
           Staff/editor is consistently changed to Editorial Staff
           Footnotes about other printings of the articles appear in notes (%O)
           Size is much smaller and is within guidelines for a single posting
           You need to uncompress after uudecode."

I don't understand what Mr. Cross is doing here, but if you can use the file
in that format, I can send it.  Or I can send it (actually 8 files, 4 for the
chronological file, 4 for the subject file) in the format which I sent to him
(the WordPerfect file run thru UUENCODE).

When I first converted the files to ASCII (to get from the Wang to the VAX),
they really got messed up (all the returns got deleted) and it took DAYS to
fix up the files.  Maybe it would work, but I wouldn't wish that cleanup task
on anyone.

Ron Speirs, Evans & Sutherland Computer Corp., Salt Lake City, Utah
From: rbhank@wsl.dec.com (Ron Bhanukitsiri)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: ok to take 8008s to Tijuana???
Date: 9 Oct 92 19:59:19 GMT
Article-I.D.: PA.1992Oct9.195919.14591
Reply-To: rbhank@wsl.dec.com (Ron Bhanukitsiri)
Organization: DEC Western Software Lab


In article <craigh.718497677@cserver>, craigh@cserver.plexus.com (Craig Heilman) writes:

|> 
|> I'm going to San Diego next week and will be taking a side trip (with a
|> tour) to Tijuana and I'm wondering if it is safe to bring my 8008s with
|> me?  Also if you know of interesting things to photograph there...
|> 
|> Thanks,
|> 	Craig

I go to Tijuana often and it's as safe as any major US city (yeah, TJ has
grown into a big city), perhaps even safer.  Just exercise common tourist
sense and caution and don't go to places where you shouldn't be.  If you
take camera bags, don't leave it lying around unattended.

Ron B[ee]
From: swanger@ducvax.auburn.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Kodak CD questions...
Date: 11 Oct 92 21:21:29 GMT
Organization: Auburn University, AL

I know this has probably been covered to death, but I have some questions
about the Kodak photo cd.

How much will it cost (per cd) to transfer your slides to a cd?
How many pictures will the cd contain?
How much will an audio compatible player cost that I can connect to both my
TV and Macintosh??

Thanks for any help you can send!
-- 
David Swanger,   Auburn University, Alabama,   swanger@accs.duc.auburn.edu 
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: pharvey@quack.sac.ca.us (Paul Harvey)
Subject: Re: Mailorder source for oak trees?
Organization: The Duck Pond public unix: +1 408 249 9630, log in as 'guest'.
	<hank.718948291@well.sf.ca.us>
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 02:48:52 GMT

forest farm, 990 Tetherow Road, Williams, Ore, 97544-9599, cat $3,
503-846-6963
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: ramirez@julia.math.ucla.edu (Alice Ramirez)
Subject: My idea of the perfect tree
Organization: UCLA Mathematics Department
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 92 00:40:39 GMT

To me, the perfect tree bears fruit.  Good fruit and plenty of it.
But these are my criteria.  I honestly can't imagine planting anything
that doesn't bear fruit.  Every tree I own, from my citrus hedge
to my espaliered kaki persimmon and its neighboring white sapote are
fruit bearers.  That's all that matters to me.  It's nice when they look
nice, and they usually do, but what really matters to me is to have
year-round fresh fruit, tree-picked.  That's honestly all I care about.

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: dietz@cs.rochester.edu (Paul Dietz)
Subject: Give Your Plants a Shot of Methanol
Organization: Computer Science Department University of Rochester
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 14:14:35 GMT

The Wall Street Journal today (10/15/92) reports:

  "A basic discovery in photsynthesis ... [has] led two scientists
  to a novel method for greatly boosting farm crop yields.

   In field experiments on a working farm in Arizona, the researchers
  sprayed methanol ... on the leaves of growing plants during the hours
  of brightest sunlight when photosynthesis was occuring at its highest
  rate.

   Among the results: Water requirements for irrigated cotton were
  halved, watermelon yields jumped 36% to 74 tons for a 2.5 acre patch
  of vines and the number of seeds on a head of wheat doubled.  Methanol
  also boosted yields and shortened growing times for cabbages,
  strawberries, eggplants and tomatoes and improved the growth of
  tea roses as well as palm and citrus trees."

--

The article goes on the explain that this is only likely to work in
regions with intense sunlight, like deserts, and does not work
on corn, sorghum or Johnson or Bermuda grasses (C4 plants, I assume).

The methanol acts as an alternate to carbon dioxide as a carbon
source, which I presume allows the plants to close stomata and
conserve water, yet still continue to photosynthesize.  Tomatoes and
other vegetables grew faster and bore fruit earlier.

Two sprays, applying a total of $15/acre of methanol to cotton in the
last twelve weeks before harvest during the hottest weather, reduced
water demand by half to 2 acre-feet/acre, saving $110/acre.

The scientists are Andrew A. Benson and Arthur M. Nonomura; they
have published in the 10/15/92 issue of the Proc. of the NAS.

	Paul F. Dietz
	dietz@cs.rochester.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: scotti@mtl.mit.edu (Gretchen Fuller)
Subject: Re: Does Chlorine Kill?
Organization: MIT Microsystems Technology Laboratories
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 20:17:16 GMT

My neighbor has done this any number of times (well, actually
about once a year) for the past 12 years, flooding both his
garden and mine and neither of us has had any problems.  The
only thing he does ahead of time is ask if it is convenient
for me to have that section of the garden flooded on such-and-
such a day or should he wait.

Scotti
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Novice questions on Bulbs 
Date: 12 Oct 92 18:06:08 -0500
Followup-To: rec.gardens
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

vinod@watson.ibm.com (Vinod Narayanan) writes:
> Having recently moved into a house, I am just getting started
> on outdoor gardening. I am planning to plant some bulbs for
> next spring(tulips and daffodils), and have couple of questions..
> 
> 1. What is the right time to plant them? (What temperatures?)
> Here, daytime temperatures are still around 60-65 and night
> temps about 40.

Anytime before the ground freezes.  It's OK to put them in "too
soon"-- remember, the spring bulbs you planted previous years weren't
dug up and vacationing in a refrigerator somewhere! ;-)
I plant my bulbs as soon as they become available in the fall, and
I still seem to be planting in mid December...

> 
> 2. I have turned over the ground to about eight inches and 
> dug in some composted manure. What other soil preparation do
> I need to do? After planting, should I mulch with something or
> leave the ground bare?

Bulbs like well-drained soil--- heavy clays tend to let water accumulate
and rot set in.  Other than that, they aren't too picky.  If the manure
was pretty fresh, it might be higher in nitrogen than bulbs really
prefer -- the traditional bulb fertilizer is steamed bonemeal.  Most
of the spring-blooming bulbs need at least 3/4 of a day of decent
sunlight in the spring-- you'll be forever replanting shady bulb beds.

As to planting depth, if you haven't got one of the "official" charts
of how deep to plant which species, don't worry.  About 3 or 4 times the
diameter of the bulb works real well.

I like to mulch my bulbs after the ground starts to freeze, and then 
in the early spring (when lilac buds are just beginning to swell), I
pull off all but about an inch or so of mulch.  So far, that's
worked well for me.


And if you ever dig up second (or more) year bulbs in the late spring/
early summer, you might look for a thick and zig-zaggy* spot on the 
(otherwise pretty smooth) roots.  Some species have "contractile roots"--
a self regulating depth adjustment.  New bulbs form above old ones, and
the plant would grow itself out of the ground if it didn't have a way to
deal with this.  So some of the root tissue contracts and literally
pulls the new bulb deeper into the soil, so that the bulbs stay at a
relatively constant soil depth.

*Kinda looks like dancer's leg warmers that have crept down to the ankles...


Kay
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: geopi@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (george.p.cotsonas)
Subject: Re: Giant Bamboo
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: bl
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 21:25:45 GMT
Summary: another interested party

In article <1amarsINNm0m@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>, bj368@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Mike E. Romano) writes:
> 
>    I am looking for information on growing the larger species
>  of bamboo in the Northwest, northern California, Oregon and
>  Washington state.

I've always been fascinated by the giant bamboo, too.
Supposedly, you can sit there and practically watch it grow!
(Over 2" growth in a day!) Heights up to 80'!

Haven't grown it yet though...

I'm interested in folks who may've grown this in the northeast;
I understand they can pull through the winter if mulched heavily
(more than a foot deep mulch).
-- 
George P. Cotsonas
AT&T BL/CPL
att!hocpa!geopi
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Does Chlorine Kill?
Date: 13 Oct 92 20:27:37 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

In article <1992Oct13.223751.19664@casbs.Stanford.EDU>, kathleen@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Kathleen Much) writes:
> In article <1992Oct8.170331.7426@iscsvax.uni.edu> klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes:
>>Yes, Cl- and Br- are both problems for plants in moderately high
>>concentrations.   How high plants can tolerate depends very much
>>on the species of plants involved.  On the other hand, Cl- is 
>>a required nutrient in small amounts.
> 
> I put a small amount of Clorox (~1 tsp) in the vases with my cut
> flowers to keep the stems from turning slimy and disgusting. I have
> been putting the dead flowers in my compost heap and pouring the water
> down the drain, but I wondered if that small amount of chlorine would
> damage the compost if I were to pour the water onto my heap, or my
> plants if I poured it into a flower bed or pot. In our California
> drought, any extra water would help.

The rate you're talking about probably won't make a bit of difference
to a compost heap, particularly if the water's been in the vase awhile
(chlorine evaporates fairly well in a day).  If the stuff you're
putting on the compost heap doesn't smell significantly more bleach-y
than city water, don't worry.

On the other hand, I'd probably worry if someone who dumped 500 
gallons of freshly-chlorinated or brominated water at about the
strength found in most hot tubs on one of my better plantings....
No, I'd probably turn up on their doorstep at 3am wanting to talk...

Kay
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: london@calypso.uucp (Larry London)
Subject: Re: Wildflower seed sources?
Organization: University of North Carolina, Chapel Hill
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 03:05:21 GMT

In article <Bw0xK0.6ro.1@cs.cmu.edu> moody@cs.cmu.edu writes:
>Thanks to all who replied to my groundcover querey last week.  Now,
>does anyone have handy a name and phone number for a wildflower farm?

Get the FAQ's:

seedcats1.faq
seedcats2.faq           (these 3 should be combined into one)
seedcats3.general

FTP from sunsite.unc.edu

docs are in /pub/docs/sustainable_agriculture/recgardens

or send me e-mail with your request(s)


london@sunsite.unc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens,rec.food.cooking
From: peterson@ucunix.san.uc.edu (John M. Peterson)
Subject: Basil
Organization: University of Cincinnati
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 17:37:14 GMT


Our basil plant was cut back last week end and the
leaves were striped and are drying in the attic.
For kicks we put several stalks in a vase of water
on the kitchen counter -- looks great, and the
kitchen has a soft smell of fresh basil. Give it a try!



+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
|  peterson@headcheese.daa.uc.edu      	 In real life: John M. Peterson  |
|                                                                        |
|  College of Design Architecture Art & Planning                         |
|  University of Cincinnati           45221-0016           513-556-1207  |
+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
From: joannek@ems.cdc.com (Joanne Kube-Harderwijk)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Mushroom growing kits/spawn sources
Date: 7 Oct 92 13:44:15 GMT
Reply-To: joannek@ems.cdc.com
Distribution: na
Organization: Empros Systems International, a division of CDC

In article <1992Oct6.234451.21623@clipper.ingr.com>, greeven@clipper.ingr.com (John Greeven) writes:
|> In article <1992Oct1.191836.12193@stsci.edu>, yen@stsci.edu (Felix Yen) writes:
|> > 
|> > In the better-late-than-never department:
|> > 
|> > I copied this information from a newspaper about six months ago, partly
|> > because Mason is the county seat of Ingham county and as a teen I used
|> > to kill time by riding from my house in East Lansing to Mason and back.
|> > Anyway, these people are/were selling morel spawn (I think).
|> > 
|> > 	Morel Mountain
|> > 	Mason, MI
|> > 	(517) 676 6373
|> 
|> I thought it was either difficult of impossible to grow Morels?  All
|> the ones I've ever purchased were wild.  What gives?
|> 
|> greeven@clipper.ingr.com

In the magazine 'Fine Gardening', the issue I received yesterday, there was
an ad for someone selling Morels to grow at home.  I don't have the magazine
here at work so I can't say too much about it, but I distinctly saw the ad.

I'm not into growing mushrooms or other fungus (unless you count what sprouts
in the back of my refrig in containers I have forgotten about) so I didn't 
read the whole thing.

Check out the magazine.

Joanne
From: sabat@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Does Chlorine Kill?
Date: 8 Oct 92 10:00:17 EST

My backyard neighbor recently dumped half of the water from their giant above
ground pool onto the yard.  Much of my back yard was flooded and I immediately
went over there and nicely asked them not to do that again.  Although I wasn't
thinking about it at the time, I realize that the water probably had either
cholrine or bromide? in it.  Does anyone know if this much of those chemicals
is hazardous to any plants or trees.  I was a bit upset over this because I
could not work in the yard as I was planning and will be ven more so if any of
my stuff dies.

Ted 			Sabat@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com
From: harlan@crchh347.bnr.ca (Bruce Harlan)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Fruitflies
Date: 7 Oct 92 21:47:21 GMT
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Richardson, Tx

We were successful with a vacuum cleaner.  Our portable canister has
a flap over the dust collection area (buggies can't get out when
the vacuum is switched off), so unknown little flies checked in,
but they didn't check out. Since they flew slow, it seemed to be
an environmentally friendly way to deal with the problem. We had
to sneak up on them, but once within the grasp of the nozzle, they
were goners.
Bruce Harlan
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: dorisl@shrooms.ingr.com (Doris Lippert)
Subject: dutch iris bulbs
Organization: Dazix
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 15:18:18 GMT


I planted Dutch Iris bulbs (they're the kind of iris you see
in flower arrangements from a florist)  last fall and they
ended up starting to come up in February.  The white ones
flowered and the purple ones didn't.  This fall I dug
them up and moved them.  I've noticed that several have started
coming up.  I'm wondering why? Are these bulbs sensitive to warm
temperatures? Will this badly affect the plant's flowering? 
What kind of experience have other had?

I live in Colorado and have been warned to plant bulbs a
couple of inches deeper than the charts state because we
get alternating warm spells and snow/cold in the winter.
My tulips, daffodils and crocuses behaved as I expected. 

Doris

Newsgroups: rec.gardens