HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: kl@cveng120.veheng.det (Keith L)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Power Switch on RAS ???
Date: 11 Jan 93 21:36:42 GMT
Reply-To: kl@cveng120.veheng.det
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.

In article AA11589@TIS.COM, richard@TIS.COM (Richard Clark) writes:
>
>In article <1993Jan11.181736.22456@mloeff01.cpchq.cpc.gmeds.com> you write:
>>Confessions of a Ryobi RAS junkie:
>>
>>[stuff deleted] [good advice, actually]
>>  And DON'T EVER, EVER, EVER try to cut pressure-treated 2 X 6's that
>>are still wet in the middle.
>
>	??? Why not ??? As I would have most assuredly have tried this, and
>likely will... could you tell me what to expect????....
>
>
This advice was a bit tongue-in-cheek however the warning was definitely intended.  The wet pressure-treated (PT) wood caused the saw blade to bind in the cut about midway through the cut.  The blade climbed in the saw kerf and jammmed stalling out the motor.  Having the saw jump as violently as it did was most disconcerting. (It would have been nice to have a thumb switch then!!) 

I was using a 32 tooth thin-kerf Disston Tiger blade at the time and switching to a thicker, coarser blade seemed to help, but did not cure, the problem.  I would try one of the so-called "deck blades" (which are teflon-coated and specifically made for cutting wet, PT wood) for my next PT wood project.  I have not noticed this problem with dry PT wood and I would caution against cutting cutting wet wood in general.  I just happened to have this experience with PT wood because it is commonly sold wet in the


se parts.
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Thu, 7 Jan 1993 08:57:30 EST
From:         Doug Cutler <UNCDWC@UNCVM1.OIT.UNC.EDU>
Subject:      Re: Mason/Sullivan Clocks?
              6 Jan 1993 20:09:06 GMT from
              <brooksby@BRIGHAM.NOSUBDOMAIN.NODOMAIN>

On Wed, 6 Jan 1993 20:09:06 GMT Glen W Brooksby said:
>
>Can you give me an address for "Bartley"?  I've not heard of them and don't see
>them
>listed in the 'Frequently requested rec.woodworking addresses (last updated
>12/4/92)'.
>Do they sell just plans as well as kits?
>
   As Glen says Bartley doesn't show up in the FAQ list so I will reply to
 the lists rather than personally.

  Bartley is a manufacturer of Antique Reproduction Furniture Kits, typically
 17th. 18th. century stuff, the woods of choice are Mahogany and Cherry.
 The pieces range from small tables, stools, mirrors, etc to large highboys,
 four poster beds etc.  Prices for kits ranges from about $100 to $3,000,
 no plans are available.  All cutting is done, you just have to assemble
 (parts usually fit very well) clean up and finish, detail carving, fretwork
 cut by a laser, and such stuff can be tedious to do but the end results
 can be stunning. When compared to the cost of materials the kit prices
 are high, however I do not own the tools needed to do some of the moulding
 work nordid/do I have large enough workshop space to handle some of the
 large sections involved.  Current wish list is for the reproduction Rice
 Planters Bed, Queen size, some of the best carving I have seen on the
 posts even when comepared with very expensive reproductions in Charleston
 S.C, kit price $1395.
  The are located in Easton Maryland and have a show room there with finished
 pieces, address:
                     The Bartley Collection
                     29060 Airpark Drive
                     Easton MD 21601
         phone: 1-800-787-2800  note this number is not only for ordering
 but for information also, I am sure they will put you on their mailing list
 id asked.

  As this thread was started about M&S:  M&S had a Willard Tall Clock in
 their collection.  In the good old days this was a fair imitation but
 was the origional height and therefore too tall for many a modern house
 (including mine at the time).  A few years ago M&S reissued this kit
 with the height more appropriate to modern ceilings however it sure didn't
 have the "class" of the origional.  When M&S went defunct Bartley issued
 a kit for a Willard Clock, a true copy, origional height and with full
 inlays, it wasn't much more expensive than the M&S.  I was sick because
 I already had another clock "in the works" but even my wife suggested
 that I abandon it and get the Bartley kit!!


  Doug. Cutler                       Office of Information Technology,
  VM Systems Programmer              University of North Carolina.
From: JEFF-G@cup.portal.com (Jeff - Griffin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: AMT tools?
Date: Wed,  6 Jan 93 02:45:30 PST
Organization: The Portal System (TM)

<Does anybody have any experience with AMT tools?
 Two years ago I bought AMTs' 5" Jointer-Planer. My major complaints:
The countersunk screw holes (fence) were too small so material was hitting th
screwheads as it was passed through (I re-sunk 'em). The 'safety_guard', is
plastic and cannot be made to sit parallel to the table (its' 'skewed' a bit)
The chip/chute does not discharge chips 'far' from the machine itself, I'm
always turning it upside down to clean it out.
  
Would I buy another one (or another AMT tool)? No. Although it does its job,
were I to upgrade it'd most likely be a Delta (I can now *afford* Delta)!

 
From: markw@hpcss01.cup.hp.com (Mark Williams)
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 19:29:33 GMT
Subject: Re: What would you buy?
Organization: Hewlett Packard, Cupertino
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

Oh boy, we get to vicariously spend money on tools!  I am not sure what 
kind of work is really being done, but I recommend:

Good hand tools, like a Japanese pull-saw (dozuki), good set of chisels,
     smooth plane, jointer plane, sharpening stones (total budget $200).
Ryobi Table saw ($550)
Other tools particular to what is being done.  (A band saw is great for
     some work, a lathe is useful for some, jointer is great for furniture 
     work, ditto for a drill press, plunge router...)

The Japanese pull saw will be a revelation -- you will wonder how you ever
got by without it.    

Let me start controversy by recommending a Ryobi Bechtop Table Saw, the 
BTS 3000.  People either love this thing or hate it,
but the saw is compact, has a good rip fence and sliding miter table
built-in, and costs around $550.  The people who hate this saw say it
is not solid enough, things go out of adjustment and bearings get sloppy.
The people who love it praise its compactness and versatility.  The sliding
miter table is a joy to use, the rip fence looks flimsy but works fine.
This saw is probably not for heavy duty use in a cabinet shop, some parts
are plastic or aluminum and not super rugged.  The motor is wimpy so you have
to use thin-kerf blades, and it is a little noisier than induction motors
on other table saws.  You might also consider their router (RE-600), which
fits in a slot in the table top.  You can use the same fences and save space
too.

I would not recommend Craftsman (which I have) unless you get an after market
rip fence or buy the new one with a built-in Biesemeyer rip fence. (Certainly,
buy a Delta Unisaw with Unifence if you can afford it - $1500).  

For little crafts items, a band saw is really useful, as is a little lathe.
There is no question that the Delta 14" band saw is the best quality small
band saw at reasonable price (Inca may be better, for more money).  I use a
little Goodell-Pratt 24" lathe for small work.  They may exceed your budget.
Rationalize, it becomes progressively easier!
From: berry@a.chem.upenn.edu (Don Berry)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Sale on Quick-Grip clamps
Date: 5 Jan 93 20:17:06 GMT
Followup-To: rec.woodworking
Organization: University of Pennsylvania

Regarding the low prices offered by Harbor Freight for QuickClamps, 
Allen Warren asked:

> Thanks for the great info.!  My only question is (and I
> haven't called Harbor Freight yet), would S&H bring the
> prices closer to what prices would be at other stores?
> 

Good point. Here's the shipping info (UPS) from their catalog:

order amt.    Shipping
<$15          $3.45
15-24.99      $4.65
25-39.99      $5.70
40-49.99      $6.75
>=$50         FREE

Pretty nice ploy to jack up your orders, no?  Still, my order
ended up >$50 with no problem.  

BTW, the mini-clamps were back-ordered ca. 20 days as of this morning.
Price is guaranteed, though.  

Don
From: frank@marvin.contex.com (Frank Perdicaro)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Eye protection
Date: 12 Jan 93 20:48:32 GMT
Organization: Xyvision Design Systems

In article <01GT7EKB0OY40008D8@LIFE.UAMS.EDU> BBHULSEY@LIFE.UAMS.EDU (Wile E. Coyote) writes:
>Greetings!
>>I'm going in for a routine eye exam this week, followed by
>>purchase of new glasses.
>>This made me wonder:  For (extremely) myopic woodworkers, are
>>safety glasses better than goggles over glasses?  I, for one, hate
>>goggles; they tend to fog and gather dust, and overall tend to obscure
>>my vision badly.  I always wear them, but I wonder if there's anything
>>better.
>>
>For certain tasks (such as routing, where I sometimes really need to look
>closely at my workpiece) I prefer to use a full face mask, around $15-$20.
>These can easily be worn with a dust mask underneath and with prescription
>glasses....

I have had a bad time finding suitable safety glasses.  A friend of mine 
mentioned that they had GOOD safety glasses at work, and got me an
pair.  He brought a pair of UVEX safety goggles ( the ski goggle
people ).  They are great!  Try to find a pair before you give up.

I also find that I can wear my real glasses ( with Croakies ) under
the Husquvaran ( spelling, I'm sure.  "mill house" in Swedish )
combination hard hat, ear muffs and face safety shield that I bought my
father.  Anything that gets through the face shield will either 
1) hurt a lot anyway because it has a great deal of energy, or 2) 
not have enough energy to hurt my eye ( like dust ).

-- 
	 Frank Evan Perdicaro 				Xyvision Color Systems
      Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.		101 Edgewater Drive
   inhouse: frank@marvin, x5572				Wakefield MA
outhouse: frank@contex.com, 617-245-4100x5572		018801285
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: walt@eng.clemson.edu (Walter B. Ligon III)
Subject: Re: Text on Sharpening Tools
Reply-To: walt@eng.clemson.edu
Organization: College of Engineering, Clemson Univ.
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 21:27:15 GMT

See:

Fine Woodworking On ...
          Planes and Chisels

Walt
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Quality and or Value of Hand Planes
From: <XID@psuvm.psu.edu>
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 09:57:24 EST
Organization: Penn State University

In article <1992Dec31.152815.894@bnlux1.bnl.gov>, joe@bnlux1.bnl.gov (joseph
christian) says:
>as ENT. The first four are hard but look like they may be BARG. Was
>there ever a tool company by the name BARGENT?

I think you'll find it's SARGENT.  Maybe someone who has an up-to-date
price guide will post about value, but remember that those numbers may vary
a lot from what you could actually get when selling the items (and depend
greatly on quality of the individual specimen).
Dave Glick   xid@psuvm.psu.edu
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: What to do after the fact [was WARNING
Date: 8 Jan 93 06:56:18 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <96113@rphroy.ph.gmr.com> rhaar@albert.cs.gmr.com writes:
>If you are far enough from medical help that keeping the amputated
>body part cool seems necessary, then you can put it on ice as
>suggested.

>*BUT* there is a real danger of freezing the tissue if it is placed
>directly in ice or just enclosed in a plastic bag.

>The advice from the EMT instructor here was to not waste time
>putting an amputated body part on ice if you can get to an
>emergency room quickly. If you beleive that it is advisable to
>keep the part cool, then wrap it in sterile gauze, put that in a baggy,
>and put that on top (not inside) of some ice.

Last go round on this topic prompted a surgeon who does reconnections
from over in sci.med to poke his head in and say precisely this.

He did say, however, that if the time delay is likely to be long
(I think he said > 20 minutes or so), that a mixture of ice and
water should be used.  If the bag containing the part is in the
water, it can't freeze.  Or even just cold water.

He certainly stressed that the part should *not* be in any liquid
of any kind.  Not so much from contamination, but from the fact that
the liquid will start screwing up the fluid/electrolyte balances in
the cells and kill them very quickly, and/or make the operation to
reattach much less likely to succeed.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
From: kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM (John Kopf,D,6305)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Table saw surface protection
Date: 12 Jan 93 17:54:33 GMT
Reply-To: kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems

Talc used to be the contents of baby powder...now, many of these contain a lot of
starch instead.  Talc will be somewhat slippery, but  starch will get sticky when
it rains.  Check the ingredients if you intend to use baby powder.

JK

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bryan@isrc.sandia.gov (Jon R Bryan)
Subject: Re: Plans for an Entertainment Center
Organization: Sandia National Labs, Org. 1600, Albq., NM
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 20:18:39 GMT

larrym@ssec.wisc.edu (Larry McGuire) writes:
: Can anyone point me to a source for plans for an Entertainment Center?  
: 
There was one that I particularly liked in the last American Woodworker.
It has two sliding doors.  Slide them to the outside to expose the TV
and stereo, slide them to the middle to hide the hardware and expose the
bookshelves.  It has some drawers for tapes and CDs as well.  I think
it's a handsome design.  They made it out of oak with raised panel
doors.  I think I'd build one if I had a place to put it.  :)
-- 
Jon R. Bryan	(505) 844-2015	<=>	bryan@isrc.sandia.gov
Sandia National Laboratories, Intelligent System Sensors and Controls
 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: brucej@mentorg.com (Bruce Johnson)
Subject: Re: What to do after the fact [was WARNING
Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1993 23:22:02 GMT
Organization: mentor
Keywords: 
Followup-To: 

 
|> The advice from the EMT instructor here was to not waste time
|> putting an amputated body part on ice if you can get to an
|> emergency room quickly. If you beleive that it is advisable to
|> keep the part cool, then wrap it in sterile gauze, put that in a baggy,
|> and put that on top (not inside) of some ice.
|> 
|> However, the most important things to keep in mind is to get
|> professional medical help as soon as possible and to avoid
|> causing any further injuries or tissue damage.
|> 
|> 

I've got some first-hand experience here.  Don't ever expect to go
to an emergency room and "get right in".  Sometimes a lost digit just
doesn't rate.

I snipped off a section of thumb ... the first thing they did in the
hospital was place it on ice (on top).  In a baggy on top sounds fine,
but I'd always plan on a wait.

If you question whether you want to have a finger reattached, try
getting by without your index finger or your thumb for a short while.
From: kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM (John Kopf,D,6305)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Scrapers - want more info
Date: 9 Jan 93 00:44:56 GMT
Reply-To: kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems

Are there any tricks for getting a good edge on one of those "french-curve" shaped
scrapers?  I can manage straight edges, but have trouble with one continuous corner.

JK
From: steveo@custard.think.com (stephen anthony)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: WARNING (response to...)
Date: 6 Jan 93 13:40:48
Organization: Thinking Machines Corporation, Cambridge MA, USA
Distribution: na
	<1993Jan5.180221.10596@adobe.com> <8fiX02tK30c901@JUTS.ccc.amdahl.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: custard.think.com
In-reply-to: twl10@ccc.amdahl.com's message of 6 Jan 93 04:05:33 GMT

In article <8fiX02tK30c901@JUTS.ccc.amdahl.com> twl10@ccc.amdahl.com (Tom Littauer) writes:

   This comment reminded me that the guard on my Delta contractor's saw
   lifts vertically enough that it can sit on the top of my Biesemeyer
   fence. Granted, it's not *AS* guarded, but it makes me less nervous
   than when I have to go bareback. I've ripped as close as 3/16"
   recently, and I think I've cut some 1/8" or 3/32" banding on it this way.

   As usual, Your Mileage May Vary.

I read in Roger Cliffe's table saw book about a simple jig for ripping
narrow widths. Take some scrap 3/4" plywood, make sure the two edges are
parallel and make a long notch in one edge. The stock sits in the notch and
you push the whole thing thru. Using the jig, the fence stays a few inches
away from the guard, allowing it to do it's job.

Crude Ascii:

    s
    t   +--------+
    o   |        |f
    c   |        |e
    k   |        |n
      +-+        |c
      |          |e
      +----------+

--
Steve Anthony                     |  "Ain't nobody gettin' outta here |
Software Engineer              	  |   with out singin' the blues"     |
(617) 234-4000                    |                                   |
steveo@think.com                  |  - Albert "The Iceman" Collins    |
From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 18:36:15 GMT
Subject: Re: Jointers, Which one to buy?
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

an625@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Kryl Logan) writes:

>In a previous article, gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz) says:
>Much dribble deleted......

>>  If you are willing to put up with the possibility of sending back a
>>  defective unit, I would say go with the Grizzly, as some have said it
>>  is a good jointer and it is definitely cheaper than the Jet.   However,
>>  there is a Jet distributer here in the Bay Area, and I wanted to buy
>>  a tool I could put my hands on before purchase and try, to make sure I
>>  liked it. 
>
>I tried sending this E-mail, but apparently your mail path is defective.
>I think any time you buy a product from any company you stand a chance
>of having to send back a defective unit.Why single out Grizzly? Was your
>mother scared by a bear? 

   This is pretty funny.   Thanks for lightening up my day!!

>                           Do you have any personal experience that you
>can share concerning a defective product that you had to return to
>Grizzly, or are you just repeating something you heard somewhere else?

   I singled out Grizzly because they had the best price for advertised 
   features.   My point is that if you buy Grizzly, since it is mail order, 
   IF you get a defective machine, you will have to put up with the hassle 
   of SHIPPING it back, plus you cannot put your hands on a model before 
   purchase to see if you like the way it is put together.   There is quite 
   a bit of variation from taiwan knock-off to taiwan knock-off.   Some use 
   levers, some use handwheels, some handwheels are under the tables, some 
   in front, etc.

   I am repeating something I heard somewhere else.   And here, on the net.
   People had problems with Grizzly machines and either fixed them or 
   returned the machines.   I also have a neighbor who bought a Grizzly
   tablesaw.  I PERSONALLY have used it.  The fence that came with it is
   a disaster, and HE wishes he could have used the saw before he bought
   it.

   These things are equally true of Grizzly, Sunhill, Transpower, Reliant,
   Jet, even Delta and Powermatic, IF YOU HAVE TO PURCHASE THEM MAIL ORDER.   
   The difference is (as I said in my original article) that I was able to 
   go to a local store and LOOK at and ADJUST and MEASURE the Jet jointer.   
   If it had been unacceptable, I could have RETURNED it immediately.   
   I wouldn't have had to ship it anywhere and be without a jointer for 6 - 
   8 weeks.


>If you followed the survey that was taken here on the net a few months
>ago, you would have seen that, the great majority of Grizzly customers
>are very satisfied with their purchases, and would continue to deal with
>Grizzly.

   I did.  I also noted that there were a few who had to return a machine
   with all the delays and accompanying hassles.   I don't have the time
   or patience to deal with it, so Grizzly is ruled out for me at this 
   time.

>Making a statement like the one you made above is tantamount to saying
>that one has a possibility of turning gay, if one goes to San
>Francisco.:-)

   Your logic escapes me here.
From: daniel@redwood.ppc.ubc.ca (Daniel Ouellet)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Pipe Clamp Pipes
Date: 10 Jan 1993 19:51:49 GMT
Organization: University of B.C. Pulp & Paper Centre
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: redwood.ppc.ubc.ca

In article <1993Jan8.193844.23407@slcs.slb.com>, weissborn@DFWVX1.DALLAS.SDS.SLB.COM writes:
|> In article <mlh1-080193095904@132.197.9.231>, mlh1@bunny.gte.com (Michael Hackney) writes:
|> >Does anyone have any experience cutting their own threads in 3/4" black
|> >iron pipe for pipe clamps? Places around town want $2.00 per end for pipe
|> >not purchased at their store. I have about 6 4-5 ft pipes I found in
|> >excellent condition that need threaded. Is it cost effective to buy the
|> >tools to do this?
|> >
|> >thanks,
|> >michael
|> 
|> I can't imagine it being cost effective, even if you rented the threader.
|> Check some plumbing houses and/or neighborhood hardware stores.  The
|> local Ace hardware (or is it True-Value?) threaded some pipe for me
|> for $.50 an end.
|> 
|> Bill Weissborn
|> 
And remember that for bar clamps, you only need one end to be threaded.
$2.00 x 6 = $12.00

-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Daniel Ouellet, Research Associate
Pulp and Paper Centre, University of British Columbia
2385 East Mall, Vancouver, BC, Canada V6T 1Z4
Tel:(604)822-8240   Fax:(604)822-8563   Email: daniel@ppc.ubc.ca
From: tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: AMT tools?
Date: 6 Jan 93 01:15:47 GMT
Organization: University of Arizona UNIX Users Group



I bought a 12" AMT bench mount drill press.  It turned out to be too small,
so I sold it to a freind and bought a 16.5" Delta Floor mount (last week!).

The AMT looks a LOT like the Delta (Taiwan probably used a Delta as the
model for the castings).   The AMT arrived in a less assembled state then
the Delta did (it took 1.5 hours to assemble AMT, 0.5 hours Delta).

The Delta is a tiny bit better finished then the AMT. Other than that,
I don't see a heck of a lot of difference (yet).

After comparing the difference I don't see any reason to hesitate
recommending the AMT drill press.

Their lathe accesories are cheap, and they are cheap.  I bought the 
4 jaw chuck, and it works.   Someday I need to buy something better.
I got a scraper from them as a freebie, and if you pay the shipping
I'll send it to you FREE!  I would hestiate to recommend their small 
tools, from my admittedly limited experience.