HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: ka1gt@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (robert.m.atkins)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: EOS Teleconverter Question
Date: 25 Jan 93 18:49:50 GMT
Organization: AT&T

In article <1993Jan25.164915.23501@kth.se>, d90-nsc@nada.kth.se (Niclas Schopenhauer) writes:
> 
> I am interested in getting a teleconverter for my 100-300 USM lens.
> However, since the Canon "white" teleconverters only work with the
> white lenses, I would like to know what other manufacturers make
> teleconverters for the EOS lenses.
> 
> Any info regarding manufacturer, price and optical quality would be
> welcome.
> 

The best of the bunch is the Tamron 1.4x (though not as good as the Canon,
it still seems to beat out the others, ref. George Lepp in "The Natural
Image" magazine). US price ca. $90 (discount). Two points though.
(1) You won't get AF operation (the 100-300 USM is too slow at 300mm)
at 300mm, possibly not even at shorter focal lengths (though you would
not want to use the converter below 200mm anyway).
(2) You will lose optical quality, especially at the edges of the frame.
Depending on how critical you are, the results may or may not be acceptable.

> 
> 
> BTW, I recently got a superb night shot of a traffic airliner passing
> EXACTLY in front of the moon. Those opportunities don't come often!!
> 
> So you can guess how disappointed I was when I got the photos from 
> the lab and discovered that the picture was very overexposed.
> I used 200 film, aperture 5,6 and 1/180 sec and a focal length of
> 300mm. The sky was very clear that night.
> 
> Does anyone have a clue as to what exposure values I should have
> used?
> 
About 1/750 at f5.6. Basic rule for full moon is about 1/film speed at
f11 - f16. So 1/200 at f11 or 1/750 at f5.6.

> I really wish my Elan had a spotmeter. (sigh)
> 
Probably wouldn't help anyway. With a 300mm lens the moon probably wouldn't
be big enough to fully fill the spot, unless it was a really tight
spotmeter. However, once you get up to 1200mm or so, you can get quite
good results with 10s (and Elan?) partial metering!


===============================================================
Bob Atkins  AT&T Bell Labs  email (direct)  att!clockwise!rma
===============================================================
From: ka1gt@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (robert.m.atkins)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: More errors. This time in "Outdoor Photographer" (March 1993)
Date: 27 Jan 93 21:30:55 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: AT&T

Reference "Outdoor Photographer" March 1993 (Vol.9 No.2)
For those who like puzzles and are readers of Outdoor Photographer,
has anyone else spotted this months "technical error"? These things
tend to happen when people get out of their depths and try to
discuss physical optics when it is clear that they don't really
know what they are talking about. I won't tell you what it is yet.
First correct response gets absolutely no prize at all. If there are
no responses I'll post the answer next week.

===============================================================
Bob Atkins  AT&T Bell Labs  email (direct)  att!clockwise!rma
===============================================================
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: tonyp@cs.umr.edu (Tony Phillips)
Subject: REPOST: filmdata.zip.uue (1/1) Film FAQ
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1993 16:53:42 GMT
Organization: University of Missouri - Rolla
Originator: tonyp@mcs213h.cs.umr.edu

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M!0``&T(```P``````````0`@`````````$9)3$U$051!+E185%!+!08`````
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`
end
-- 
|  Tony Phillips-  University of Missouri CS Dept.  |  Programming: A noun   |
|                                                   |  meaning 'The Art of   |
|  Reply to:  tonyp@cs.umr.edu                      |  debugging a blank     |
|  Prefered Address:  S102066@UMRVMA.UMR.EDU        |  sheet of paper'       |
From: photo@cs.ubc.ca (Photo-swap central)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Photoswap 93-1 Theme announcement
Date: 21 Jan 1993 00:37:39 -0800
Organization: Computer Science, University of B.C., Vancouver, B.C., Canada
NNTP-Posting-Host: flip.cs.ubc.ca
Summary: The first photoswap theme is 'Winter scenes'
Keywords: potoswap, theme, Feb. 30/93, mail


			    Announcement
			
			Theme Portfolio #93-1

                  With a 4 -way tie for secone place ....
		       [Insert drum roll here]

                            Winter Scenes

		  Photos due by February 28th, 1993

	The ballots are in and voting is closed.  Theme #93-1 will be
	Winter scenes.  The deadline for submission of photos for this
        theme is February 28th in my post office box.  This gives everyone
	approximately five weeks to produce and submit a photo.  This is
        ample time if you get going on it  (If you live in Europe, however,
	you may have to move quickly).
	
	Maximum size for submissions is 8X12.  This allows for full-frame
	enlargement from 35mm negatives.   Slides are allowed.

	This is important:  Mark your photos (on the back is fine, make
	sure you use indelible ink) as follows:
	"(C)Copyright 1993 by <Your name here>.  All rights reserved."
 ***	Photos require this copyright notice to be circulated.

	Also indicate whether or not you wish to have your picture
	digitized and made available on the net. (I will only digitize
	pictures digitized if I have explicit permission)

	A mailing list will be composed with the names and addresses of
	all photo submitters in the order that the photos were received.
	Please make sure that you include your mailing address with your
	photo(s) and that it is legible.  
	
	The portfolio will circulate to all submitters in the order that 
	they were received.
	EMail me when you have the photo in the mail.

	My physical Mail address is:

	Stephen Samuel
	243 W 16th ave.
	Vancouver, B.C., Canada
	V5Y 1Y8			     <-- Canadien postal code.
        Ph: (604)876-0426
			        Email: photo@cs.ubc.ca
-- 
Stephen Samuel          (604)822-9248           photo@cs.ubc.ca
                                        or,  alberta!ubc-cs!photo
Photo swap co-ordinator (with much support from Brian M. Godfrey)
The first prerequisite to enjoyment is playing the game.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: monta@image.mit.edu (Peter Monta)
Subject: Re: T-MAX 100 Direct Positive Chemistry
Organization: MIT Advanced Television Research Program
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 14:40:13 GMT

dnewcomb@whale.st.usm.edu (Donald R. Newcomb) writes:

> Many years ago I used Kodak Direct Positive chemistry to make B&W
> slides from Direct Positive Film or Plus-X Pan. I have recently
> tried the T-MAX 100 Direct Positive chemistry and have run into
> two problems:
> 1. It seems that the slides are comming out too dark.
> 2. There is often a yellow/brown cast to the processed film.
> Has anyone else experienced problems like these?

Hmmm.  This may not be so helpful to you, but I used the kit recently
(~2 months ago) with no problems.  I used T-MAX 100, shot at EI 50,
per the instructions (there was some discussion here awhile back on
first developer for low-contrast TP slides, which I've yet to try).

Perhaps the photochemistry wizards can comment on the symptoms.  Did
you mix and use at the same time?

Peter Monta   monta@image.mit.edu
MIT Advanced Television Reserach Program
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: f92mlu@efd.lth.se (Marcus Lundahl)
Subject: Re: Hasselblad TCC equipment???
Organization: Lund Institute of Technology, Sweden
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 22:08:24 GMT

In article <1993Jan25.171942.3541@craycos.com> sog@craycos.com (Steve Gombosi) writes:
>In article <1993Jan25.111854.5524@lth.se> f92mlu@efd.lth.se (Marcus Lundahl) writes:
>>Here in the country of Hasselblad, Sweden, all kinds of equipment to
>>Hasselblad is rather expensive. But I wonder, what is the price in the
>>states on both new and used Hasselblad equipment (especially for the
>>205TCC)? Is there alot of TCC used equipment available?
>
>I have yet to see any used TCC equipment for sale - the system hasn't been
>widely available for very long in the US. New prices for 205TCC w/80mm TCC
>and the TCC back run somewhere between $9000 and $10000, which is 
>approximately 4X the price of a new 500 C/M Classic outfit.
>Used Hasselblad prices vary widely. 
>
>Steve
>
>How much is a TCC in Sweden? What's the exchange rate these days?

A TCC in Sweden costs about 55000 Swedish kronor.
That includes Body, 80TCC Lens, One back (sometimes you get
an extra back as an bonus, and that's worth alot!).
The exchange rate is 1:7.47 (Dollar:Swedish kronor)

Marcus

-- 
Marcus Lundahl (Technical Physician at Lund Institute of Technology)
E-mail adress: f92mlu@efd.lth.se
Home adress:   Marcus Lundahl   
               Tranbogatan 5
From: swatko@airbag.enet.dec.com (Mike Swatko)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Ansel Adams Prints
Date: 27 Jan 93 19:30:02 GMT
Article-I.D.: nntpd.1993Jan27.193002.1873
Reply-To: swatko@airbag.enet.dec.com (Mike Swatko)
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation, Nashua, NH

--
In article <1993Jan27.181827.6056@odin.corp.sgi.com>, bongers@redgto.asd.sgi.com (Hans L. Bongers) writes:
>In article <1k53fsINNaqd@jhunix.hcf.jhu.edu>, sylve_ge@jhunix.hcf.jhu.edu (Gerald E Sylvester) writes:
>|> A few months ago, someone posted a message containing the phone
>|> number and address of the company (?) that sells "authentic"
>|> Ansel Adams prints.  Can someone re-post this address and phone 
>|> number and approximate price of 8x10's and 11x14's (or whatever
>|> the standard sizes are).  Thanks in advance.....
>
>There are TONs of places that sell Ansel's prints.
>
>The cheapest start at about $3000 (5x7).


Hmmm.  I've seen several 16x20 AA signed prints starting at $1200 at a
studio in New Orleans.  The same place had a monsterous (probably 32x40)
"Moonrise" print for $85K.  Guess it pays to shop around...

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mike Swatko                             !  swatko@airbag.dec.com
Digital Equipment Corporation           !  swatko@airbag.enet.dec.com
Corporate User Publications Engineering !  swatko%airbag@decwrl.dec.com
Nashua, New Hampshire                   !  ...!decwrl!airbag.enet!swatko
===========================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: lswab@x400gate.bnr.ca (Lyndon Swab)
Subject: Re: Help photographing in snow (skiing)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.,
Distribution: na
Date: 22 Jan 93 14:02:03 GMT

>>>>> "lds" == Duan-Shin Lee <lds@ccrl.nj.nec.com> writes:


  lds> What is the correct way of bringing a camera from extremely
  lds> cold outdoors to warm indoors ?

Put it in a plastic bag (before bringing it inside) to keep the
condensation off.
--
Lyndon Swab     lswab@bnr.ca, (613) 763-7165, ESN 393-7165
From: sh09@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (STEVEN HIGGINS)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: > Cokin filters - any good?
Date: 22 Jan 93 15:31:36 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

In article <1993Jan21.171733.18657@miki.pictel.com>, kevin@miki.pictel.com (Kevi
n Davis) writes:
>Darek Lis writes:
>>I want to buy a few filters (split ND, warming, sunset etc.) Until now I've
>>been using Hoya multicoated filters, but I found them pretty annoying. They
>>are virtually impossible to clean. So I'm looking for an alternative. The
>>Cokin system looks nice. I could use the same filters with all my lenses.
>>The price is also reasonable - for the price of a 58mm Tiffen split ND
>>filter I can get the Cokin P-type holder, adapter and the filter. I wonder
>>though how do Cokin filters compare to Hoya or Tiffen in terms of optical
>>quality. For example, are they coated (multicoated)? I think Tiffen also
>>makes filters that fit Cokin holders. Are these better or worse than the
>>corresponding Cokin filters?
>
>Tiffen makes very nice P-series graduated ND filters and graduated
>color filters.  The Tiffens are high quality glass filters and should
>easily beat the pants off of Cokin filters.
>Concencus seems to be that Cokin ND filters tend to have a color bias
>and are not truly ND.  If you like the slight color, that's fine; but
>the name suggests that it is supposed to be neutral.

    Cokin effects filters are also plastic, are easily scratched, and
    do noticeably degrade a len's resolution.  If you can live with that,
    it's probably a pretty neat system; I'd rather stick to glass.

    
-- 
~Steve
sh09@lehigh.edu
From: sharp@mizar.usc.edu (Malcolm Sharp)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Gels For Strobes
Date: 22 Jan 1993 06:28:46 -0800
Organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA
NNTP-Posting-Host: mizar.usc.edu
Keywords: Blast 'Em


Several years ago I was at a trade show and I picked-up a sample book
of "Lee Filters."  The samples are approx. 1.5"x3.5".  I've never
counted them but I'd guess there are about 100 samples - many colors
and things like daylight->tungsten, etc..  The filters are held
together with a plastic screw and so I can use one and then screw them
back together.

I have a couple of SunPack Auto322 flashes and I hold these on by
either using the filter holder that came with the flash or by simply
taping.

These samples were free.  

The info I have on "Lee Filters, Andover,England" is:

U.S. Distributor-
Belden Communications Inc.
534 W. 25th St.
NY, NY 10001
(212) 691-1910

West Coast (US)-
Cine Mills Corp.
3500 W. Magnolia Ave.
Burbank, CA 91505
(818) 843-4560

Maybe if you call/write they could oblige you with these samples.

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: rao@ccu.umanitoba.ca (Govindaraju Rao)
Subject: Help photographing in snow (skiing)
Organization: University of Manitoba, Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 07:16:16 GMT


rao@ccu.umanitoba.ca (Govindaraju Rao) writes:

>  Here in the Canadian prairies my Minolta X-700 does not function
>  in temperatures below -15 C. The user's manual offers the remedy of
>  concealing the camera under your jacket, thereby keeping it
>  warm, and extricating it just before use. Take your shot and
>  reinsert it back under your jacket. 

Jake Livni writes:
 
>>Doesn't this result in condensation forming on and *IN* the camera and
>>the lenses?  Isn't this a no-no for equipment?

   I took a second look at the X-700 users' manual and realised
   that I have made an error. The manual DOES NOT suggest the
   remedy of concealing the camera under your jacket. In fact,
   as Jake Livni has also pointed out, the manual cautions about
   condensation problems if the camera is moved from extreme cold
   outdoors to relatively warm indoors. 

   MY APOLOGIES IF I HAVE MISLEAD ANYONE WITH MY PREVIOUS ERRONEOUS
   POSTING.  
-- 
G.S.K. Rao <rao@ccm.umanitoba.ca> <rao@ccu.umanitoba.ca>
 
GRAD STUDENT'S GRACE:  Please God !! If it MUST crash .... not when
                       *I* am using it !!
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: mfolivo@sactoh0.sac.ca.us (Mark Newton-John)
Subject: Re: Pentax PZ10 or Canon Rebel S II???
Organization: Sacramento Public Access Unix
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 93 09:44:46 GMT

In <185040@pyramid.pyramid.com> rdunfee@pyrnova.mis.pyramid.com (Robert Dunfee Jr.) writes:


>Any tips on the purchase of a Pentax PZ10 over the Canon Rebel s II?  I would
>like to buy one as an amateur, but am having trouble deciding.  I have
>seen a lot of postings regarding Canon lenses, but not much on Pentax, are they
>god, bad or ugly?

Well, it depends on what your experience is, and what you want to
do with a camera.

Personally, I prefer the PZ-10. Smaller, metal (as opposed to
composite) construction, simpler to use, power (or manual) zoom,
with special zoom features, and for the price, you get more with
the Pentax over the Canon.

However, everyone is different, and I might suggest you find a good
sales counselor (unless you want to drive up to my store in SF-
Geary) and discuss your needs.

The Canon has more adjustability, but that is important ONLY if you
plan to use them. Who cares about bracketing if you'll never use
slide film? Will you push or pull film? If so, then Canon. If you
don't care, then Pentax.

Pentax lenses are quite adequate. Unless you plan to get exotic
lenses, who cares if Canon has thousand dollar lenses if you are
satisfied with a 28-80 and a 100-300?

Pentax PZ-10 outfit, $499.99, includes camera, lens, nylon case,
film, lithium battery, film, cleaning kit, photo book, strap.
(28-80 power zoom lens)

Canon EOS Rebel II S kit, $499.99, includes camera, 35-105mm zoom
lens, lithium battery, strap. Case sold separately.


-- 
mfolivo@sactoh0.SAC.CA.US   SAC-UNIX (916) 649-0161
The Good Guys!		We know our stuff
Audi			The Alternate Route
Atari			Power without the Price
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Clay soil and fruit trees
From: bmoon@eis.calstate.edu (Bruce A. Moon)
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 13:57:25 GMT
Organization: Calif State Univ/Electronic Information Services

Your situation sounds fine for drainage. As to the amendments, the tree we
planted was before the new research so we amended too, with no problem.
The distance between trees sounds about right for a hedge. The
recommendation for full-sized trees is 20-25 ft.; the smallest dwarfing
rootstock makes a 50% tree; Colt rootstock 70-80%. Since the fruiting
spurs are long-lived on the cherry, you can prune it if necessary to a mor
or less permanent shape.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: djd@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (david.j.daulton)
Subject: Tell me all you know...
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 15:42:02 GMT

I am a volunteer at a local 100-acre "metro" park (a regional type of park
we have in Ohio), called Innis Gardens.  It is one of the smallest metro
parks in the state, but one of the most developed, with natural areas,
a rose garden, a rock garden, and an herb garden with one of the largest
collections of thyme in the world.

From time to time I print and pass to the park staff various items from
rec.gardens, such as postings on dealing with deer problems (a big problem
in metro parks), and postings on pawpaws and other native plants.

One of the parks's staff members recently asked me how they might go about
using the park's PC (used to print the volunteer newsletters, to
keep track of volunteer hours, etc.) to access gardening bulletin boards,
such as rec.gardens.

And I had to admit, I don't know!  I access it simply because I work for
AT&T, and was able to convince my boss to allocate $100 a year to
subscribe to "cbnewsg" to I could read the "FrameMaker" (documentation tool)
newsgroup, to help me with various work-related problems.  Rec.gardens was
just a neat extra.

So my questions is "How would someone with a PC join?"  In more detail:

1.  I know they need a modem.  How much do they cost?  What baud?

2.  How would they be charged?  $100 a year, like me, or by the minute?

3.  Who do they contact?

4.  Can they get in through a local whatever, such as Ohio State University,
    (or even here at AT&T?)

5.  I suppose they would want to look at rec.gardens, agro.forestry,
    and bionet.plants, all available through this "cbnewsg".  Are there
    services other than cbnewsg that are better for plant info?  If so,
    how do you acess them?

Dave Daulton, Columbus, Ohio
From: LKEYS@BUPULA.BU.EDU (clementine)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: GROUND COVER
Date: 27 Jan 93 20:34:30 GMT
Organization: BOSTON UNIVERSITY, Pulmonary Center
X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.22

Any suggestion for an agressive, fast growing ground cover that will do well in
the sun?  I'm just outside of Boston, so it should tolerate the cold. 
(Although I don't think it's as cold here as people think.)

Thanks.

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: LS45 <LS45@UNB.CA>
Subject: Canadian catalogues?
Organization: The University of New Brunswick
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 15:17:01 GMT

Hi, I was just wondering if there was a list for mail order
catalogues in Canada for flowers and vegetables.  This will be my
first garden and I'm getting restless for spring so I can start.
Thanks in advance, D. Savoie

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: breland@cobweb.mcc.com (Mark A. Breland)
Subject: Re: If you could only plant one thing this
Reply-To: breland@cobweb.mcc.com
Organization: MCC
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 14:25:47 GMT

In article 7652@telerama.pgh.pa.us, kristen@telerama.pgh.pa.us (Kristen McQuillin) writes:
>
>Not me, I'd plant thyme. I love the scent and use it in food, soap,
>and other herbal things. If I could plant two things, the second would
>be lavender.

Ahhhh, an herbalist.....one of my experiments last year was growing herbs
for the first time: basil, rosemary, oregano, cilantro (coriander), parsley,
and mint.  This year I'm moving them out of the main garden into their own
little plot and would like to add others like thyme, marjoram, and savory.
Notwithstanding the onions and garlic which I tucked into their little beds
last night.  :)

---
Mark A. Breland - Microelectronics and Computer Technology Corporation (MCC)
Ada Fault Tolerance                               | voice:    (512) 338-3509
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Austin, Texas 78759-6509   USA                    | internet: breland@mcc.com
From: kwilliams@gems.vcu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: winter gardens
Date: 27 Jan 93 16:43:03 -0400
Organization: Medical College of Virginia

One winter-flowering plant you might want to try is something called
'winter jasmin' - Sorry, that's the only name I know for it.  It has
arching, dark-green branches with small leaves in summer.  In the
winter and early spring it blooms whenever the weather warms - delicate
yellow blossoms that look a lot like forsythia.  Here in Richmond, VA
it is blooming now, and has been since Christmas.  It seems to be rather
slow-growing, doesn't get very tall, (2-3 ft max) and spreads by putting out
roots wherever the branches touch ground.  Seems pretty hardy, too.
Oh - mine is planted on a south-west facing slope - maybe why it blooms
as early as it does.