HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jeq@i88.isc.com (Jonathan E. Quist)
Subject: Re: Realty-English Dictionary
Organization: INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation, Naperville, IL
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 18:00:21 GMT


Motivated seller:  Their backs are to the wall, and can no longer afford
		   what you're willing to pay for the house.
		   (Don't ask me how I know!  :')



Shouldn't this thread be called "Realty-Reality Dictionary"?
-- 
Jonathan E. Quist                              INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation
jeq@i88.isc.com  '71 CL450-K4 "Gleep", DoD #094        Naperville, IL
        There are many things a person should experience in a lifetime.
       Among them are an infant's first cry, and an infant's first laugh.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Dryer: Gas or electric
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 92 18:25:54 GMT

In article <1992Sep01.015258.3528@sco.com> garyh@sco.COM (< Gary H >) writes:
>
>I am in the process of buying a dryer.... and I'm wondering, should I buy
>a gas or electric one? What are pro-s and con-s of a gas dryer? Are they
>alot cheaper to operate?

Around here, gas is much cheaper to operate. Gas dryers are more expensive
to buy.

I have gas and love it compared to the electrics which I've had in the
past.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | I had been told that the best defense is a good
George Patterson -  | offense, so I made up my mind early in life to
                    | become as offensive as possible.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Two electrical questions.
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 92 18:12:10 GMT

In article <1992Sep4.141851.12383@primerd.prime.com> mguyott@eriador.prime.com (M. Guyott) writes:

>Question 2: Last night our portable dish washer tripped the GFCI outlet it
>            was plugged into.  We have been using the dish washer for almost
>            two weeks without any problems.  We were not using any other
>            appliances or outlets on the circuit (there are only four outlets
>            on a dedicated circuit for kitchen use).  I reset the GFCI outlet
>            and the dish washer worked fine.  Is this something that happens
>            occaisionally or is this something I should be concerned about?

This happens to me sometimes with my electric mixer. It occasionally
trips the GFCI when I cut it off. Happens to me about once every three
months.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | I had been told that the best defense is a good
George Patterson -  | offense, so I made up my mind early in life to
                    | become as offensive as possible.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Gas dryer or electric clothes dryer?
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 92 23:36:50 GMT

In article <12553@sail.LABS.TEK.COM> vallath@vishnu.foo.tek.com (Vallath Nandakumar ) writes:

>Any of you have any comments on gas dryers?

I have one. I love it.

About your comment on adding the gas line. I have had the misfortune to
move into several houses which did not have a dryer outlet back when I
owned electric dryers, consequently I've added my share of them. Given a
choice between trying to add one of these (especially when the breaker
box is already overloaded) and adding the gas line, I'll run the gas line
any day.

patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | There are very few personal problems which
George Patterson -  | cannot be solved by a suitable application
                    | of high explosive.
                    |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Eletric dryer - running but not drying
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 92 18:03:18 GMT

In article <4100762@hpcc01.corp.hp.com> brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks) writes:

>Back to the main thread, the NEC requires that 220V breakers disconnect
>both sides *when manually turned off*.  However, it does *not* require
>both sides to trip if one does.  So, it's possible for one phase to
>be out due to the breaker tripping on one phase.

In addition to this, I've seen one case in which the breaker refused to
trip when only one side was overloaded. That caused the secondary protection
(a fusible link) for the overloaded side to blow. The result was a breaker
that was obviously on which would not transmit any electricity on one
circuit. The unit had to be replaced.

The breaker was made by GE, by the way, and has a single plastic bar for
the handle for both side of the breaker. Breakers which have a flexible
connection between the two breaker handles do not have this problem.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | I had been told that the best defense is a good
George Patterson -  | offense, so I made up my mind early in life to
                    | become as offensive as possible.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: dennett@sunshine.Kodak.COM (Charles R. Dennett)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Invisible Fencing
Date: 6 Sep 92 17:58:41 GMT
Article-I.D.: kodak.1992Sep6.175841.18084
Distribution: na
Organization: Eastman Kodak Co., Rochester, NY

In article <1992Sep1.182613.19823@hplabsz.hpl.hp.com>, mcreynol@hplabsz.hpl.hp.com (Alan McReynolds) writes:
>Some time ago I recall seeing advertising for "Invisible Fencing".  
>This product was intended to keep your dog from wandering off of 
>your property, without actually having to fence in the lot.  My 
>hazy recollection of the product was that some sort of wire was 
>buried at the perimeter of the lot and that it transmitted some 
>sort of signal to a "smart" collar on the dog.  The collar, when 
>brought too close to the buried wire, would irritate the dog 
>enough to eventually train it to say at home.

Well, a friend of mine had it installed at his house.  He tells
a couple of rather humerous tales.  In the first one his dog
got excited and ran over the buried wire and got zapped.
The dog absolutely refused to cross the wire and come
back into the yard.  The fellow had to carry the dog back into
the yard.  The dog is a Labrador Retriever, not a small dog.

The other story is about the time he was holding the collar in his
hand when he got too close to the wire.  Now he knows why
his dog refused to cross the wire in the first story!

Charlie Dennett -- dennett@kodak.com
From: bartonh@tekeda.PEN.TEK.COM (Barton T Hickman)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: sand v. concrete patio
Date: 14 Sep 92 19:09:57 GMT
Reply-To: bartonh@tekeda.pen.tek.com
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Beaverton,  OR.

In article <1992Sep13.234454.10509@tamsun.tamu.edu> pzs3761@tamsun.tamu.edu (Pete Sierant) writes:
>spread several inches of sand and lay the bricks on top. There
>are advantages either way, but I'm leaning toward the sand method
>because it seems cheaper, easier, and easier to change or expand 
>in the future. Any comments or suggestions welcomed.
>
Well, here is Beaverton it is NOT dry--we get plenty of rain and I have a
brick patio with a sand base--it's just fine after one winter.  We even
had a relatively mild winter, so the ground was EXTRA soft for many
months.  Before I put the sand down, I added a few inches of minus gravel
just to prevent any mud from getting into the sand and therefore on the
bricks.  I also partitioned my patio into roughly 4'x4' squares (made of
cedar 2x4's).  I think unless the patio is subject to very heavy traffic,
I'd go with the sand for sure.

Bart
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: drevik@utkvx2.utk.edu (Drevik, Steve)
Subject: Oven thermostat off by 200 degrees
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: University of Tennessee Computing Center
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 01:04:00 GMT

This posting is basically a consumer's warning: my new
Kenmore oven is only 3 months old, and the thermostat
is now reading low by 200 degrees or more (ie, the oven
gets way to hot and charcoals the food).  We'll see how
the warranty service is.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: repair plaster or drywall?
From: lis@at-mail-server.vitro.com
Date: 3 Sep 92 12:59:37 -0500
Distribution: world
Organization: Vitro Corporation

Hi-

I recently began renovating my 1880's home and have discovered both good and
bad news... 

The good news- one of the prior owners had the wiring upgraded, and also had
insulation blown into the walls. 

The bad news- in order to accomplish the good news, large holes were drilled,
and in one case a section of plaster 1' by 8' was removed and the entire room
was then panelled to conceal the damage. I'm guessing the ceiling was also
damaged as it now has  tiles over the original plaster.

My question is should I attempt to repair the plaster (horsehair plaster with
wood lath) or should I simply drywall over the whole mess. I've never worked
with plaster before, so any advice regarding its repair is welcome (if not for
this room then elsewhere...)

Thanks in advace for your help-

Larry Spector
LIS@at-mail-server.vitro.com
From: obrien@sparc28.hri.com (Jim Obrien)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Home Owner's Insurance
Date: 8 Sep 92 18:13:39 GMT
Reply-To: obrien@bigbird.hri.com
Organization: Horizon Research, Inc.




I'm currently looking into home owners Insurance. This
is the first time I have done this, so I need  a little
help. 

The house is in the Boston Area (Hull), and its has been
assessed at $65,900. 

My personal belongings are not much, and I don't want to
get any more coverage than what is necessary.

If anyone has any good experiences with a local agencies, or
any info about what to look out for, please let me know.

                                       Thankx Jimm..

+-+-------------+-+----------------------------------------------------+-+
|o|    /////    |o|              Jim O'Brien (obrien)                  |o|
|o|   | @ @     |o|           Horizon Research Inc. (HRI)              |o|
|o|   c  _)     |o|        1432 Main street Waltham Ma. 02154          |o|
|o|    \ o      |o|   obrien@HRI.com (617) 466-8364 FAX (617) 466-8323 |o|
+-+-------------+-+----------------------------------------------------+-+

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: gary@sci34hub.sci.com (Gary Heston)
Subject: Re: suggested weapons (was: Killing burglars.)
Reply-To: gary@sci34hub.sci.com (Gary Heston)
Organization: SCI Systems, Inc., Huntsville, Al.
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 20:44:03 GMT


Some days, it just doesn't pay to touch a keyboard. Rarely do I have two
in a row, though. As I'm sure everyone who hasn't killfiled me yet has
noticed:

In article <1992Sep9.015039.12458@sci34hub.sci.com> gary@cdthq.uucp (Gary Heston) writes:
>In article <6SEP199208115481@utkvx3.utk.edu> drevik@utkvx3.utk.edu (Drevik, Steve) writes:
>>In article <P63HqB1w161w@cdthq.UUCP>, gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston) writes...
>>>drevik@utkvx4.utk.edu (Drevik, Steve) writes:

>>>> In article <mwBeqB1w161w@cdthq.UUCP>, gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston) writes...

>>>> Mr. Heston... can you read?  There must be > a dozen requests to
>>>> move this to rec.guns.  Thanks.

>>>Yes, I can read. I've seen NINE other postings from you (arrived at
>>>this site today) wasting bandwidth. 

I made my first error here, Monday night, when I erroniously accused Mr. Drevik
of the excessive posting. He didn't do it, and it was incorrect of me to so
accuse him. But, I had to make it worse....

>>Umm.... again, I pose the question "can you read?"  My name appears
>>at ONLY ONE of the posts requesting that this discussion be moved.
>>The other eight are another poster.  Sorry if the fact that my request
>>happens to be the last one that you read.

Again, Mr. Drevik was quite correct.

But I blew it thoroughly, misreading names again when I built the previous
article, wherein I posted a resoundingly incorrect flame. That should teach
me to grep for messages using a first name, instead of the whole name.

My first apoligies must go to Mr. Drevik; my statements directed him were
incorrect and unwarranted; it was indeed another poster who made the excessive
postings (from another site, even...). I was in the wrong, twice. There's
little excuse for that.

Secondly, I must apologize to the readers of misc.consumers.house, as I 
have wasted bandwidth with incorrect postings. 

Perhaps I need to stick to cutting grass and pruning hedges, instead of
posting.

Incidentally, the email I mentioned really did go to the true offender;
I'd generated it with a followup, and edited the message count in the
spool directory after finding the second batch. Strangely enough, I haven't
heard from him......


-- 
Gary Heston    SCI Systems, Inc.  gary@sci34hub.sci.com   site admin
The Chairman of the Board and the CFO speak for SCI. I'm neither.
    The most dangerous person in the world is Jessica Fletcher.
        Everywhere she goes, people die.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: bruceh@cray.com (Bruce T. Hill)
Subject: Re: House square footage- how to measure?
Organization: Cray Research Superservers Inc., San Diego CA, USA
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 01:25:56 GMT

In article <1992Sep14.175509.1467@donner.SanDiego.NCR.COM> davel@booboo.SanDiego.NCR.COM (David Lord) writes:
>In article <1992Sep11.141020.29376@meaddata.com> davidm@meaddata.com (David Miller) writes:
> 
>>In San Diego, the standard measure was square footage, measured at the outside,
>>subtracting only for the garage.  This measure featured prominately in the
>>MLS books and was a primary measure for appraisals.
>
>However, after looking at MANY houses in the San Diego area I can only
>conclude that many real estate agents either cannot work a measuring tape
>or cannot perform the calculations necessary to determine the size of the
>house. There is a wide variation in the size of 1600 sf houses. Also there
>is wide variation in the usable living space in 1600 sf houses, particularly
>hallways, entryways, and stairways can kill off a heck of alot of space.

As a recent purchaser of a home in San Diego County, I concur.  The agent
representing the house we bought claimed 2844 sq. ft., the builder said
the plans were calculated at 2865 sq. ft. and the appraiser (who actually
measured the house put down 2950 sq. ft.  Quite a difference.  I have not
measured the house myself, so I have no idea which number is closest to 
the truth.  I assume that the difference between the appraiser's and the
builder's numbers comes from the way they each are measured.  The appraiser
measured the exterior, and the builder took the architect's numbers, which
probably exclude some non-livable space.  The architect's number would
probably be more accurate as to the actual interior square footage, as
I sure that this number is used to size the air conditioning and heater
units.


-- 
Bruce T. Hill @ Cray Research Superservers, Inc., San Diego, CA, USA
Email: bruceh@cray.com  Phone: (619) 625-3746  FAX: (619) 625-0641
Humorous quotation:  Nobody looks good wearing _brown_lipstick_. --Frank Zappa
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: 12 gauge vs 14 gauge wiring price
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 92 21:54:28 GMT

In article <1992Sep3.173145.28803@ulowell.ulowell.edu> wex@cs.ulowell.edu writes:

>One last thought (sorry Chris), Wiring with 12 ga should NOT reduce the number
>of breakers needed (in general).  You should have just as many branches with 12
>as you would with 14, the reason to use 12 is to reduce the load on each 
>branch -- if you increased to 12, but also increased the length of each
>branch to save breakers, you would be defeating the purpose.

I disagree. One main reason to use 12 gauge is to allow the use of 20 amp
breakers. Another is to decrease the voltage drop over long (more than 100')
runs of wire. If I recall correctly, the Federal Wiring Handbook does not
mention any other reason for using 12 gauge wire in its recommendations.

With 20 amp circuits, the lights won't dim as often because the temporary
load which your appliance places on the circuit constitutes a smaller
percentage of the total load on the circuit and the remaining load is
stable.

And for the person who said you can fill up a panel with as many breakers
as it will hold regardless of size, don't try that in Maplewood, NJ.
According to the fellow that put in my brother's new service wiring, the
code there is very simple; your total breaker load on each side may not
exceed the main breaker size. The electrician who gave me an estimate
for a new service last year told me that my area (Franklin township) has
the same regulation. Franklin uses one of the nationally accepted codes,
but I can't remember the name (something like BOCA).

You can certainly fill up the panel with all the breakers it will hold,
but you might as well quit paying for insurance if you do.

On the labor difference: I've completely re-wired two older houses under
the supervision of licensed electricians, and one house in an area in
which a license was not required. I haven't found 12 gauge to be much
more difficult to work with *except* for ceiling junction boxes. Three
way switches are particularly hard. Just try getting four to six wires
in one wire nut with 12 gauge wire.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | "Under Consideration": We never heard of it.
George Patterson -  | "Under Active Consideration": We're searching the
                    |    files for it.
                    |         Kelvin Throop - The Management Dictionary
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond)
Subject: Re: Whole-House Fan Choice is Not a Breeze
Date: Sun, 06 Sep 92 03:13:19 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.

goddard+@cs.cmu.edu (Nigel Goddard) writes:


>To minimize noise, you want:
>	1. Belt drive.  Direct drive means the fan blades act as
>           as a sound board for motor vibration.
>	2. Slow fan rpm (another reason to get belt drive).

There are two kinds of direct-drive fans.  The HIGH speed (1750-1800 rpm)
direct drive fans are very noisy.  However, the newer design low speed
(500-600 rpm) direct drive fans are MUCH quieter than belt drives.
There are two reasons.  One is there is no high speed vibration from
the motor.  Second is there is no belt noise.  

>I was told Dayton is a good brand.  I looked through the Grainger Supply
>catalogue, it is a gold mine for these things.  It includes some
>advice on sizing the fan and external venting.  

Dayton is a very good brand.  I have one of the largest Dayton direct
drive fans in my house.  Very quiet and variable speed via an SCR 
controller.  At low phase angles, the SCR controller resonates
the motor to produce some hum.  This is, of course a problem shared by
belt drive fans.  I have a variable frequency AC motor drive 
that I'm going to try on this fan.  It should vary the speed with
no noise.

John
-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC               |Interested in high performance mobility?  
Performance Engineering Magazine (TM) |
Marietta, Ga                         |Interested in high tech and computers? 
jgd@dixie.com                        |Write me about PE Magazine
Need Usenet public Access in Atlanta?  Write Me for info on Dixie.com.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: abbott@priory.enet.dec.com (Robert Abbott)
Subject: Re: FLAT for SALE in Russia ( in Magadan )
Organization: TP Performance
Date:  9 SEP 92 12:01:21    


In article <ABNQChgaH6@kenext.msk.su>,  daniel@kenext.msk.su (Finogenov Daniel Victorovich) writes...
>          Dear Sears.
>     I'm offer to you a flat for sale.
>     Location: centre of Magadan - the capital of Russian Nord - East ( near
>        Alaska ).
>     Brief:
>        2 rooms, kitchen, toilet & bathroom, pantry.
>     Further details ( particulars ) can be obtained on request.
>     The price is 7900 $ and nothing more for cash.
>     I'll be happy to discuss the matter with you.
>                Yours faithfully Daniel Finogenov.

Care to inform us what the average seasonal temperatures are
in lovely downtown Magadan? 

------------------------
Robert K. Abbott
abbott@tps.enet.dec.com          
From: brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 01:20:27 GMT
Subject: Re: Some drywall questions.
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house

No comments on the horizontal/verticle question.  (well, I did
my remodel with vertical, but the original was  horizontal.  I
think it tapes faster, and is a bit less susceptable to odd
stud spacings...)
Greenboard is really only needed where the water hits.  However, for
a small bathroom (5' x 8') the difference in price and hassle is
small enough that I did the entire thing in greenboard.  It tends to
make it more flexible if you change your mind on tiling arrangements,
too.
Your inspector may have some further comments.
Pete Brooks

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: edwards@world.std.com (Jonathan Edwards)
Subject: Re: Beware when prewiring for telephone
Organization: IntraNet, Inc.
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1992 00:18:34 GMT

In article <BuH0tI.2D7@jfwhome.FUNHOUSE.COM> jfw@jfwhome.FUNHOUSE.COM (John F. Woods) writes:
>In <LLZuqB1w161w@cdthq.UUCP> gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston) writes:
>Well, it's sort of both; the transmission line can (potentially) radiate
>even if the actual computing equipment is inside well-grounded Faraday cages
>(and vice versa).  Good coax cable won't radiate; I believe the stuff usually
>sold as networking coax is well-shielded, but some coax sold for TV and CB
>work isn't as well shielded (only 70% braid coverage in some cases).  Proper
>open-wire balanced transmission line also won't radiate, but phone cable isn't
>designed as an RF transmission line; I don't know whether or not 10BaseT-quality
>phone line meets Class B specs.  And, of course, it's also worth remembering
>that a lot of "Class B" home computers haven't actually been tested, or if
>they have, were tested in unrealistic conditions (no add in cards, heavily
>shielded cables to keyboard and monitor, etc); it's not infrequent that
>adding a "Class B" add-in card to a "Class B" home computer results in a piece
>of equipment that shows up on radars in other countries :-).
>
I have been researching this issue, and it appears that twisted pair vs. coax
is not the most important factor for RFI. Good grade twisted pair can be as
good or better than coax for suppressing radiation of balanced signals. The
real culprit is unbalanced signals (like clocks) that get on one or
both wires, and radiate like the dickens. THis is a matter of board design.
It appears that most manufacturers are not bothering to worry about Class B
certification of networking hardware.





-- 
Jonathan Edwards				edwards@intranet.com
IntraNet, Inc					617-527-7020
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: cab@col.hp.com (Chris Best)
Subject: Re: Outdoor Lighting: Mercury vapor Vs. High Pressure Sodium
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 20:58:08 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: your service


Sodium has a warmer color, if it matters.