HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: erik@archimedes.nwc.navy.mil (Erik van bronkhorst)
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles
Subject: Re: Leaded or Unleaded
Date: 16 Apr 92 15:11:59 GMT
Article-I.D.: avalon.1992Apr16.151159.15434
Organization: Naval Weapons Center, China Lake, CA

In article <1992Apr14.164918.54811@yuma.acns.colostate.edu> hamiltoj@CS.ColoState.EDU ((n)<j>ay) writes:
>In article <1992Apr13.211341.2371@acsu.buffalo.edu> v058l789@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (Ethan A Bowerman) writes:
>>
>>	A friend of mine has a question for his bike.  He has a 1973
>>Honda CB350F and wants to know if it is O.K. for  the motor if he just runs
>>unleaded gas with no additives.  Anybody got anything worthwhiel to say about 
>>using straight pump gas in a motor made to run in the "leaded era".  All replies
>
>As I recall, unleaded runs just fine in a leaded engine but the other way
>around does not.  Something about the leaded gas will hurt the catalytic
>converter.  But this is mostly from cage engines that I know this, can't see
>why a bike engine would be much different in this respect.
>

	Some ancient poppet valve engines took advantage of a 
small amount of lead that would condense on the exhaust valve
seat.  It provided a cushion for the valve.  I have read that
as far as for the sake of poppet valves, any engine with an
aluminum head has sufficiently hardened valve seats that need
no protection.  Any engine made in the last 25 years should be
fine anyway.

Comments???
-- 
Erik van Bronkhorst KC6UUT erik@rftech.nwc.navy.mil
DoD#4342585443 AMA#438054 "3.412 squid" "2.5 geezer"
From: sai@formula1.Corp.Sun.COM (S.Fielding-Isaacs [WWFO Eng Wordsmith])
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles
Subject: Re: Master link clips
Date: 8 Apr 92 00:55:19 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Mt. View, Ca.
NNTP-Posting-Host: formula1.corp.sun.com

In article <1992Apr8.002431.15586@javelin.sim.es.com> blgardne@javelin.sim.es.com writes:
>cookson@skybridge.SCL.CWRU.Edu (Dean Cookson) writes:
>>Well, the master link clip on my new chain has flown off into the ether.
>
>While we're on the subject, what's the "proper" way to nail down a rivet
>type master link? This is strictly for entertainment's sake since we got
>the thing installed on a friend's bike late Saturday night, but there
>has got to be a better way. 

 Duh....

 Of course.

 Contact Sudco Mikuni at (213) 747-5173. Ask for Mike or Robby.
 Ask them to ship you a rivetable masterlink tool. Cost unknown -
 less than $75. It has an assortment of plates that allow you
 to fit the sideplate on (a variety of sizes) and a pin expansion
 fitting to expand the pin gracefully. Very easy to use and it
 assures that you don't compress the link too much, crushing the
 o-rings and rendering the link useless.

 Takes 30 seconds (really - I did it this weekend at the track).
 In the time you have saved you can go for a nice ride. :->


 Stefan
 (sponsored by RK Chain)
--
Stefan Fielding-Isaacs         me: (415) 599-4876  me at them: (415) 688-9400  
dba Live-Wire Technologies (a consulting technical writing firm) 
AMA/CCS (SL) #5, Lightweight Supersport, Superbike, Grand Prix Champion
mail:  race-request@formula1.Corp.Sun.COM to join motorcycle roadracing list
From: ops@vax.oxford.ac.uk
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles
Subject: Telesales and bike selling
Date: 6 Apr 92 19:38:59 GMT
Organization: Oxford University VAXcluster


I've been trying to sell my bike for the last two weeks and it has been 
a nightmare. Has anyone else had the same problem that I did ? That is 
loads of these COMPUTER VEHICLE selling agencies keep ringing me up.
I advertised my bike in the local Autotrader and to date I've had more
calls from these agencies than people interested in buying the bike.
The worst thing is I know that these companies don't work coz I tried 
one last year. It cost 35 quid and they claimed  to sell the car/bike/vehicle
within 7 working days. How they work is they advertise their service nationally
and people are supposed to ring them and ask if they know of a certain bike
in their area for sale, the company says yes we have several and gives the
interested party the phone numbers. So everyone is happy and the bike/car etc
is suppossed to be sold. 
In my case it was over a month before anyone rang me, by which time I had
sold the bike myself. 
Also everyone I have asked has never heard of these people, so where do they
advertise ? Do they just get a kick out of annoying people on a sunday morning
? One company wanted 45 quid ! 

So anyone had any success with these people ? 

           ************************************************
           * Mark at Oxford University Computing Services *
           * Email - OPS@UK.AC.OX.VAX  anytime....        *
           ************************************************
           Suzuki LS650 - who needs more than one cylinder ?
Xref: sparky rec.motorcycles:12608 rec.motorcycles.racing:536
From: spencer@hailwood.asd.sgi.com (Paul Spencer)
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles,rec.motorcycles.racing
Subject: Re: Helmet Reccomendations
Date: 9 Apr 92 01:29:07 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc., Mountain View, CA

grw@HQ.Ileaf.COM (Gary Wasserman) says:
>
>General advice: My observation is that motorcyclists wearing white
>helmets are more visible and are visible farther than motorcyclists
>with darker or colored helmets.  The AGV is white with red/blue graphics.
>Stick with white.

I find it a lot easier to buy whatever color I like, or can get a good
price on, or matches my bike; and then put retroreflective Conspicuity
stickers on it. Much more visible than a white helmet, especially at
night.

(Of course, I haven't gotten around to it on my now-two-years-old
bright red System II, but I plan to.... someday.....)

....paul

-- 
Paul Spencer                  Silicon Graphics Advanced Systems Division
spencer@sgi.com                                Mountain View, California
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles
From: karish@mindcraft.com (Chuck Karish)
Subject: Re: How do I get rid of rust?!
Organization: Mindcraft, Inc.
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1992 19:23:07 GMT

In article <1992Apr7.183012.15209@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu> mikeh@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu
(Mike Hollyman) writes:
>The shop noticed that my tank has rust inside it and said a tune-up wouldn't
>help.  They say I must remove the rust and re-seal it or else my carbs will
>forever be infected with rust.

>I would like to do this all myself.
>The tank stuf costs around $20 (the shop charges for a *lot* of labor.
>Has anyone done this themselves?  How easy is it?  Any tips?

Not hard at all:

  - Drain and remove the tank.

  - Remove the petcock.

  - Drop a handful of steel washers or clean gravel into
    the tank with a cup of kerosene.  Shake the tank to
    remove loose rust.

  - Rinse out the tank with the nasty solvents suggested
    by the sealant manufacturer (acetone, TCA).  Keep
    the solvent away from the tank and away from your
    skin.  Fumes are toxic, too; do it outside and
    hold your breath ;-).

  - Put in the sealant, seal up the openings with plastic
    bags, and turn the tank every which way to get the sealant
    to flow all over the surface of the tank.  Drain off the
    excess sealant; you might have enough left to seal a second
    tank.


Once you re-install the tank (with an in-line fuel filter
installed; get a clear one with a paper element for $2.69
at your favorite auto parts store) try clearing out the
float bowls by opening up the drain screws and letting gas
run out through the overflow hoses.  If this clears the
jets and your bike runs well, you're lucky and you can just
go riding.

Otherwise, take the carbs off and clean them.  This will
take all day.  It's normal for it to be quite difficult to
get the carbs out of the rubber hoses that hold them in
place, and even harder to get them back in.  Be patient.

>What can I use on the carbs?  Should I replace all the jets?  I think the 82
>CB750K jets and gaskets will fit.

No, you won't have to replace the jets, except possibly for
the float valve needles.  Just clean them out.  You may not
need gaskets, either.  A full set cost $75 when I bought
them five years ago.

My procedure is to take the carbs apart, one at a time, and
dip them in the nasty carb cleaner (methylene chloride/
cresylic acid).  This stuff is quite toxic and should never
be dumped into the environment, but it does a GREAT job of
cleaning carbs.  Don't let any water get into the can of
cleaner because it'll cause the can to rust through and
make a dangerous mess in your workshop.

Take the bike to the shop and have the carbs tuned when you're
done.  Or, buy the tools and do it yourself.

	Chuck Karish		karish@mindcraft.com
	Mindcraft, Inc.		(415) 323-9000
From: fs@cs.scarolina.edu (Faisal Siddiqi)
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles
Subject: Re: Wheelies
Date: 13 Apr 92 22:20:51 GMT
Organization: USC  Department of Computer Science

wilken@plains.NoDak.edu (Scott Wilken) writes:

In article <1992Apr8.051212.19992@src.honeywell.com> mikep@cfsmo.honeywell.com writes:
>
>Are there really bikes out there that will actually pull the front end up with
>the clutch engaged and the throttle open?

Happened all the time on my Rajdoot (Yamaha) 350.
Open out the trottle in first gear suddenly enough and UP you go!
It was kinda fun ...

+---------------------------------------+-----------------------------------+
 Faisal Siddiqi			        |                             
 fs@cs.scarolina.edu                    |   Office:
 '86 Kawasaki ZL600         		|          LeConte 122                  
 Had to let go of '85 Rajdoot 350       |          Univ of SC 
                            _           |          Columbia SC-29208
                           //		|          Ph: (803)777-5148 
                     o===o \ 		|   Home:                  
       TL              ___\ \		|          1813 Helen St.    
       |#L___        _/ ## \ (()	|          Cayce SC-29033    
     _=J____ \______/ #### |\ \		|          Ph: (803)796-3049 
  _//_-===-_\ _########_/X/  \ \____ 	|                            
 //// \ | / \\_ZL600__  /X/   /_-=-_T\  |   DoD #0449                
  {{---(O)---}_======= //    //_\_/_\\	|                            
   \\ / | \ /_________V/     \\ /|\ //	|   Ham : VU2WYZ             
     ~-===-~                   ~-=-~	|                            
+---------------------------------------+----------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles
From: fester@island.COM (Mike Fester)
Subject: Re: Who's ever had equipment stolen?
Organization: /usr/local/rn/organization
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 19:50:52 GMT

A friend of mine used to take his old Yamaha to school (UCLA) everyday and
park it in the motorcycle parking lot by the Chem building. He locked it with
the thickest cable lock I've ever seen, but one day we walked out and found
the cable with a firm lock on vapor. He reported the theft to campus police,
who held out very little hope of its return, but to our amazement, it, or
rather all of it but the front forks, reappeared 3 days later in the botanical
gardens. 

In need of wheels, he called around to find the cheapest fork assembly he could
and we ended up in the San Fernando valley in a seedy looking motorcycle shop
where they would sell him the whole kit 'n kaboodle for $140. This was at
3:30 on a Friday afternoon, and the shop closed at 5:00. The guy behind the
counter told us that he didn't have the part, but he could have it by tomorrow.
But, we said, you're closed tomorrow. Well, he could be open for a couple of 
minutes just for us. Well, we asked, where is the part? Oh, it's at the ware-
house. Is it close? No, it's about 6 blocks away. Isn't that close? Yes, but
they're closing up. But they don't close till 5:00 right? Well, yeah, but they
have a lot of paperwork, so please come back tomorrow. 
Naturally, my friend and I were a little suspicious, but we were back the next
day. The guy let us in, gave us the forks, kept looking nervously over his
shoulder at the group of 4 guys sitting in back and said "That'll be $125".
My friend asked for a reciept, but the guy said, sorry, the register is closed.
He then asked for some fork oil. A guy at the back shouted "TAKE IT!" How
much is it? "JUST TAKE IT!" How about some motor oil and a funnel? "TAKE
IT!" How about .. "JUST TAKE IT AND LEAVE!"

So, we loaded ourselves down with whatever we could carry, shoved it into 
my trunk and got out of there as fast as we could. To this day, my friend
and I believe he paid $125 for his own forks. There was, however, a new
tire on it, and a fairly entertaining story.

Mike

-- 
Disclaimer - These opiini^H^H damn! ^H^H ^Q ^[ .... :w  :q  :wq  :wq! ^d  X ^?
exit X Q  ^C ^? :quitbye  CtrlAltDel   ~~q  :~q  logout  save/quit :!QUIT
^[zz ^[ZZZZZZ ^H  man vi ^@  ^L  ^[c  ^# ^E ^X ^I ^T ? help  helpquit ^D  ^d 
man help ^C ^c help exit ?Quit ?q CtrlShftDel "Hey, what does this button d..."
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles
From: midnight@access.digex.com (Midnight)
Subject: Re: The DoD crowd
Organization: Express Access Public Access UNIX, Greenbelt, Maryland USA
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 08:51:35 GMT


Okay....I'll bite.

Who's willing to UUENCODE a GIF of Diana and mail it to me so I can
get to know at least one of you folks?  I'm getting really curious
here...

BTW, I'm not a biker...but I am over 20. ;->

--
From: mparsons@fleming.iaims.bcm.tmc.edu (Mark Parsons)
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles
Subject: Re: Today's Braindead Cager Day
Keywords: cagers stupidity TOW
Date: 14 Apr 1992 18:52:33 GMT
Reply-To: mparsons@fleming.iaims.bcm.tmc.edu (Mark Parsons)
Originator: mparsons@fleming.iaims.bcm.tmc.edu


In article <1992Apr14.182249.2736@tcsi.com>, gwu@tcsi.tcs.com (George Wu) writes:
|> 
|>  . . .. . . .stuff about cagers and their driving habits . . . . 

I went riding the other night on the Houston freeways . . . hey, we ain't
got no winding roads or hills . . . so the next best thing is playing in
freeway traffic . . . . 


Anyway, it must have been a full moon out that night.  I had two cagers
begin to move into my lane (I'm doing a large percentage of the official
DoD speed limit at the time ;-) (oh, these are different situations . . . )
and both of them . . .both of them . . . looked over their shoulder and
saw me . . .then they moved back into their lanes . . . just in time to
decide . . 'what the heck' let's move over anyway . . . . well, I really
wasn't impressed by their initial well-manneredness, so I was ready for
their little games . . . I dropped to 3rd and redlined right past them . . 
I pulled up short of one guy (no I didn't stop . . . . just sat in front of 
him at a measely 55 . . . in the left lane!!) and stared him straight in the 
face . . . he acted as if I wasn't even there . . . or that if he didn't
acknowledge my presence I'd just disappear . . . . hell, I had on my
nice shiny, reflective Conspicuity vest . . . . . . ass hole!  Where was
my little paint balls when I needed them!?!?!?!?!?

The third lady, as usual, didn't give any turn signals, or even look
in her mirror . . . . blew her doors off, too!


Now mind you, I've grown a little used to these idiots around here . . . 
and I wouldn't really have labelled them close calls (you should see some
of the close calls! . . . .and NO, you haven't seen me in any close calls,
yet, Lorra! ;-)  but 3 of these loonies in about a 15 minute time frame . . 
. . . . .. . gaaaaaaawwwwwwwwwwwwwd, I hate cagers . . . . . . . 



-- 
Mark A. Parsons
mparsons@bcm.tmc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles
From: steve@bucolix.ece.ncsu.edu (Steve Garnier)
Subject: Re: What do we call Harleys?
Reply-To: steve@bucolix.ece.ncsu.edu (Steve Garnier)
Organization: North Carolina State University
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 15:31:27 GMT

In article <1992Apr13.130254.23071@i88.isc.com> 
jeq@i88.isc.com (Jonathan E. Quist) writes:
>In article <1992Apr11.014117.21470@serval.net.wsu.edu> 
>bill@wsuaix.csc.wsu.edu (William E. Johns;S23015) writes:
>>simple, you call Harley's "motorsickles"
>Ah, yes.  The Grim Reaper enters the Industrial Age.

If this is the case, then a "motorsickle", a.k.a. motorized-scythe,
has been popularized in such films as Halloween (Part {1,...,N}), and
The Texas Chainsaw Massacre.  Most chainsaws are 2-strokes, and they
obviously must burn oil...

If we use this thoroughly demented logic, then Harley's are oil-burners.
:-)

But I still like 'em, anyway.
Steve Garnier - 1979 Yamaha XS1100SF Special with 156,000 miles and *climbing*
DoD #00000005 - KotF (The Daemon's Byte and Keeper of the Flame), NC Chapter
Internet:steve@bucolix.ece.ncsu.edu  UUCP:{?,gatech,uunet}!mcnc!bucolix!steve
Organization: Senior, Chemistry, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles
Date: Wed,  8 Apr 1992 22:29:38 -0400 
From: John Robert Nadzam <jn1h+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: Help! Repair / Junk it Advice needed!
	<1992Apr8.162146.14594@infonode.ingr.com>

>> REAL men do thier own work on thier bikes.
              ^^^^^             ^^^^^
 
>I guess only sissies know how to spell.

dammmnmnm strait spelking is fer sisseys.

Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles,rec.bicycles
From: pattersw@turing.cs.rpi.edu (William Patterson)
Subject: Re: THIS IS NOT REC.BICYCLES!!!!
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute Computer Science, Troy NY
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 12:46:10 GMT

In article <IdsIeOC00VAtFD8v4M@andrew.cmu.edu> Mark Joseph Andy <ma1w+@andrew.cmu.edu> writes:

   Please take all the various posts for bicycle related stuff off
   rec.motorcycles.
   Unless you're bolting an FZR1000 motor into your Cannodale frame, most
   of us here at rec.mc really don't care...

   Mark
   | Mark J. Andy			WERA NV #813		DoD #813 |


Right.  Exactly the way many of us don't care about totally irrelevant
and useless DoD postings.  But they don't seem to be going away either.

--Bill
From: frankb@hpsad.sad.hp.com (Frank Ball)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1992 16:40:04 GMT
Subject: Re: Timing Adjustments
Organization: HP Signal Analysis Division - Rohnert Park, CA
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles


*So, I point the light at the pully, and physically rotate
*the distributor assembly until the right marks line up. If this does not 
*change when the rotor contacts the distributor cap, what does it do? 
*Adjusting points was a separate and pain-in-the-butt process of looking 
*at the dwell on a meter, then yanking the distributor cap off and turning 
*a little screw, then starting the engine and measuring again. So I figured
*that the distributor contacts actually fired the plugs, provided that the
*points were in the right position when the rotor got there and the coil
*was charged. This is not flame bait, just an observation. 

You are about 1/2 right.  When you rotate the distributor you set the timing
by changing when the points *open*.  The cam that controls when the points
open and close does not rotate when you turn the distributor.  

The rotor never contacts the distributor cap, it only gets close to the 
contacts inside.  When the points open the spark jumps across the gap 
from the rotor to the distributor cap.  

When you set the points with the screw you are setting the gap, which 
controls the dwell.  The dwell is the amount of time that the points 
are closed.  If the dwell is too short (too big a gap) or too long
(too small a gap) you get a weak spark, but for different reasons.  If 
the dwell is too short, current doesn't go through the ignition coil long
enough for enough magnetic energy to be stored in the coil.  If the dwell
is too long, the gap between the points is too small and they will arc
when they open, effectively shorting out the the energy that is supposed
to generate the spark.

Frank Ball   2LR-D             frankb@hpsad.sad.hp.com
Hewlett Packard                pyramid!hplabs!hpsad!frankb
1212 Valley House Drive        (707) 794-4168 work  (707) 538-3693 home
Rohnert Park CA 94928-4999     KC6WUG Seca 750 XT350 IT175 I'm the NRA.
From: chrisp@tatanka.wr.tek.com (Chris Perez)
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles
Subject: Re: Ducati Inquiry
Date: 8 Apr 92 20:12:04 GMT
Organization: Tektronix, Inc

In article <1992Apr8.131057.351@msus1.msus.edu> Stafford@vax2.winona.msus.edu (J Stafford) writes:
>I want a Ducati and have found the following.  I know the
>builder/owner and the mechanical work is impeccable.  It
>has a well documented 12,000 miles on it, with some hard
>riding (but not prolonged racing.)

Don't forget that the bevel-drive's roller crank's life is measured in
hours when raced.  Replacements are expensive.

>1975 860GT with all 750SS body parts (tank, etc), new paint,
>machined one-off resets, Bubs (sp?) pipes.  He wants $3,800.

To get the 750SS tank on there, he'd have to have repositioned the
mount points on the frame.  And if the job was only 1/2 done, it'd
still have the original tank's mount points exposed (ie: ugly).  Bubs
are OK.  Contis are much more desirable.  Resets are easy enough to
find.  So?  You get a stock 860GT with different bodywork.  Not worth
what's being asked to me.  To you?

>Ball park -- might it be worth that much?  Ducati evangelists comments
>welcomed!

Right!  It's a bit outta the ball park, dude.  You can find very nice
examples at Britalia Motors in Soquel, CA with fewer miles for less
than that.  "Typical" selling price on any 860GT is $1500 (ratty) to
$2700 (mint).  But, if you _have_ to have the bike, what's $3800 for love?

Also, keep in mind that very good examples of the Darmah have traded
hands recently for less than $4000...

"What's that sound, dad?"                    	 Christopher Perez
"Ducatis running wide open in my mind..."        chrisp@amadeus.WR.TEK.COM
"Dad, you're weird!"
From: jlhaferman@l_eld09.icaen.uiowa.edu (Jeff Haferman)
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles
Subject: BATTERY QUESTION: long slow charge, or quickie?
Date: 6 Apr 92 15:16:31 GMT


I've always been told that a long slow charge is "better" 
for a battery than a quick charge.  For example, I have an 
8 amp/hour charger, which can fully charge a dead motorcycle
battery in 5 or 6 hours, as opposed to 24 hours using a
"trickle" charge.

Why does it make a difference?  It seems that if the battery
is fully charged, is shouldn't matter how long it takes to
get it fully charged.  Or does it have something to do with
perhaps a higher amperage charge rate breaking down the
battery a bit faster?

Any authorities on this subject please respond.

Thanks,


Jeff Haferman                            internet: jlhaferman@icaen.uiowa.edu
Department of Mechanical Engineering     DoD 0186  BMWMOA 44469  AMA 460140
The University of Iowa
Iowa City, IA  52242                                 '76 R90S
From: steve@bucolix.ece.ncsu.edu (Steve Garnier)
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles
Subject: Re: *Motorcycle For Sale*
Date: 11 Apr 92 20:53:46 GMT
Reply-To: steve@bucolix.ece.ncsu.edu (Steve Garnier)
Organization: North Carolina State University

viking@iastate.edu (Dan Sorenson) writes:
>andyc@ESD.3Com.COM (Andy Chan) writes:
>>Dan, I'll sell you mine for the discounted price of $99,999.99 or
>>all of the above (minus baby lint of course) plus two of your nose
>>hairs.
>	Really?  No baby-lint?  Hmmmm...  Well, I guess it all depends
>on how clean you want your nose hairs, and how to arrange shipping.  I
>think you ought to pay it, seeing as how I've got a cold and these
>hairs are of superior quality and workmanship.  Would you like them
>"regular" or "extra crunchy?"

Andy, I strongly recommend that you require the nose-hairs be braided!

Steve Garnier - 1979 Yamaha XS1100SF Special with 156,000 miles and *climbing*
DoD #00000005 - KotF (The Daemon's Byte and Keeper of the Flame), NC Chapter
Internet:steve@bucolix.ece.ncsu.edu  UUCP:{?,gatech,uunet}!mcnc!bucolix!steve
From: egreen@East.Sun.COM (Ed Green - Pixel Cruncher)
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles
Subject: Re: Sticking clutch plate
Date: 17 Apr 92 12:32:28 GMT
Reply-To: egreen@East.Sun.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems, RTP, NC
NNTP-Posting-Host: laser.east.sun.com

If you have an electric starter, just hold the rear brake, pull
in the clutch, and fire it up.  

This is the only known way to experience shaft effect on a 
chain drive motorcycle.

---
Ed Green, former Ninjaite |I was drinking last night with a biker,
  Ed.Green@East.Sun.COM   |and I showed him a picture of you.  I said,
DoD #0111  (919)460-8302  |"Go on, get to know her, you'll like her!"
 (The Grateful Dead) -->  |It seemed like the least I could do...