HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: mlachow@erenj.com (Michael Lachowski)
Subject: Re: White foam glider wing spars, what do you use?
Organization: CTSD
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 12:37:01 GMT

In article <8656618@MVB.SAIC.COM> jam@marge (John McNeil) writes:

>Hi,

>I decided I didn't have the bucks to buy the Alcyone kit right now, so I am 
>scratch building a strange kind of sloper.  I want something that will fly 
>in moderately light lift, but with a wide speed range.  My plan is to build 
>a plane with flaps and over size ailerons.  This way I can reflex the flaps 
>to go fast, and lower them to go slow.  Big ailerons should help me 
>maintain control at low speeds in typical slope turbulence. 

>I got some foam cores from C.R. Aircraft models from their hand-launch 
>Climax.  They have a SD7032 - SD7037 transitional airfoil, and I am going 
>to build them with no polyhedral.  I am going to cover them with obeechi 
>and clear finish the wood (no plastic).  I have two questions: 

>1) I want to split the wing with a 1/4" carbon wing joiner, is aluminum 
>tubing in the wing O.K., or should I use brass?. 

Should be no problem with aluminum. Why are you worried about that small 
weight differential if it is a slope ship.

>2) What kind of spar systems do you guys put in foam cores before the 
>sheeting.  I've seen just a root rib and a rib at the end of the joiner 
>tube on vacuum bagged, carbon over blue foam wings, but it seems like I 
>need something akin to shear webs because  I am using the white foam and 
>wood.  I don't want to over build this thing, but I want to do aerobatics 
>without worrying about snapping the wings. Should I put a carbon strip 
>under the sheeting?   

Need to know what the span, weight, and wing thickness at the center section 
is going to be. You may not need any spar at all if it is small. I have a 
66" electric with SD8000 airfoil, obechi, no spar, just some 1.4 oz 
fiberglass cloth between the obechi and pink foam in this case.  If it's a 
HLG size ship, probably no spar is needed. You might throw in a little CF 
tow if you want a stiff wing.  Better alternative might be some fiberglass 
or kevlar between sheeting and foam to improve torsional stiffness.


BTW: I just finished the NSP Sparrow with SD7080, 65" span. I built it with 
standard elevator only V tail and put two servos in the wing for flaperons. 
The micro servos hang out below the wing a little. Flys well in light lift 
and I also flew in some stronger lift with extra ballast. The kit wing there 
is 1/16 balsa over foam, no spars. I added some  CF tow and some kevlar 
cloth around where I mounted the servos in the wing. Nice little slope ship 
and the price isn't too bad, $99 with fiberglass fuse, nicely cut foam 
cores, sheeting, and all the necessary hardware.
From: seanm@terapin.com (Sean McCaskey)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Glow Plugs
Date: 13 Oct 92 19:51:32 PST
Organization: BBS

In article <1992Oct11.163256.22526@alf.cooper.edu>, mark@alf.cooper.edu
(Mark_Balch-(EE'95)) writes:
>Hello,
>
>I'm a new commer to the world of RC flying and am looking for information 
>on reliable glow plugs.  I've heard good things about Rossi and OS.  Rossi
>is expensive though and OS doesn't exactly look cheap.  Are there any
>alternatives or should I just bite the bullet and buy a bag of OS glow
>plugs?  Thanks for your input.
>
>Mark
>


  Ya know.... I have two OS engins and I use the Fox long idle-bar type and
have had little trouble.  My engins always start and run just fine and don't
burn them up.... with the Foxs being in the 3 dollar range and the OSs being
something over 8, I will go with Fox.  Keep in mind, I am not running a tuned
pipe and do not tweek myt engine for the most power I can get.  I just want it
to run smoothly and reliably.  I use Barons 10% nitro fuel.

---Sean---
From: row0@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (RICHARD O. WHITE)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: one handed control + a foot
Date: 15 Oct 92 15:18:11 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

In article <Bw34x2.Css@news.cso.uiuc.edu>, koebrich@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (koebrich j
eff) writes:
>I am trying to find a control for rc race cars that will work with one hand
>and possibly with one foot.  The boy I am helping has little use of his right
>side and he wants to participate in rc car racing (his older brother does this)
.
> text deleted
>Hope to hear something...
>
>Jeff Koebrich
>UI Div. Rehab.
>217-244-8265 (w)
>
>I'll watch the news.
>
 Subject: Re: one handed control + a foot

 Idea #1.....
 Find Rc transmitter with buddy control input.
 A cable  socket 6-8 pins for a second tx -instructor box that allows
 his joy sticks to control the student tx)
 you then can use that input for the foot control
 a sewing machine foot peddle  or a electric quitar control what ever
 is cheaper, at least the machanics are there. the resistance would
 have to be change to tx joy stick pot values
 ...........
 idea #2
 Most car controlers have a trigger configuration for speed
 find out the R value of the trigger ckt modify foot peddle
 (sewing or guitar fuzz box) add a 3.5 mm phone mono jack to
 the controller and a matching plug added to the foot controller
so the foot peddle can be plugged in. depending how much room is
available in the rc tx controller some phone jacks have additonal
switch ckts in them so when foot controll is unplugged the trigger
resistor is back in the ckt and can be operated as orginal config.

I am not that active in RC but have seen rc systems with buddy
configerations. Freg. of Aircraft vs ground are now seperated
s tx,rc fregs may have to changed  cost I have no idea.
a local hobby store that deals in rc car-boat systems could give you a hand.

lots of luck... hope to hear how you made out.... like what you trying to do

Rich...

-- 
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: shade@chdasic.sps.mot.com (Douglas Shade)
Subject: Fiberglass, Laminating vs. Finish Resin
Reply-To: shade@chdasic.sps.mot.com
Organization: Motorola SPS ASIC, Chandler, AZ
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 19:44:01 GMT

Hi folks, I thought the RC crowd might have some experience in
the use of fiberglass.

I recently purchased a fiberglass repair kit for my beat up old
VW's bashed Baja fenders (not RC, full sized car, well almost full 
sized anyway :} ).

I used the laminating resin and cloth as directed.  It says to use 
a finishing resin or the repair area will remain tacky.  They were
right, the repaired area is still tacky (a week after repair).  If/
when I use the finish coat, will all the layers of the repair job
"cure" to the same hard consistency as the rest of the fender?

When I sand down the repair area, will I rediscover the tacky laminations?
Thanks for your assistance.

This was my first experience with f-glass.  It was kinda fun.  Are there
RC boat kits which require glass.  I'd like to try that sometime.


---
shade@chdasic.sps.mot.com                        \/
602-821-4096                                    \/\/...its not a car
From: seanm@terapin.com (Sean McCaskey)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Hi-Start
Date: 12 Oct 92 15:47:09 PST
Organization: BBS

  Hi-Start launching....

    I read a book about R/C sailplaning years ago when I was new at the hobby
and the suggestion of the book was to hold the plane over head with a slight
upward angle... (no more than 30 degrees).. and give a slight push forward.  It
stressed that you should not "throw" but push forward and not up.  I have done
this and it works fine.  Only time I ever looped off the line ws with a badly
out of trim ship. (should have tested it first I guess).  I have never thrown
the plane lever as a previous poster has recomended.  I would think thta could
cause a problem is your throw is not accurate (too much up or down).
---Sean---
From: mgwheele@author.ecn.purdue.edu (Matthew G Wheeler)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Did I mail you my post?
Date: 8 Oct 92 20:05:55 GMT
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network

I sent a post asking for advice on a new plane to someones E-mail
address by mistake instead of posting it.  Whoever got it,  I'd
appreciate it if you'd either post it for me or send a copy back to me
thakns.

Matt Wheeler
mgwheele@clausius.ecn.purdue.edu
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: fogarty@erenj.com (Ben Fogarty)
Subject: Re: Hi-Start
Followup-To: rec.models.rc
Organization: Exxon Research and Engineering, New Jersey
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 20:10:43 GMT

>   Just purchased a new Hi-start from Northeast Sailplanes.  Looks impressive.  Any hints/tips on using it??

Put the ground on one end (preferably the rubber end) and hold the ground
in place with the big nail
Put the plane on the other end. Walk a while, turn and let go. You'll get
the hang of it in a while.

Ben Fogarty - Senior Staff Analyst
Exxon Research & Engineering
Computing and Telecom Support Division
fogarty@erenj.com
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: careyb@sweetpea.jsc.nasa.gov (Brian Carey 283-4181)
Subject: Like some input on Patriot .40
Organization: McDonnell Douglas Space Systems Company
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 18:56:11 GMT

I am looking at the GreatPlanes Patriot .40 for my next Plane.

Does any one have any information about this plane.
If you have one, how does it fly and what are the landing and slow
speed characteristics like. Also if you used retracks what kind 
did you install. Finally, if you were to build this plane again 
what changes would you consider.

Thank you in advance.

Brian C. Carey.

Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: otten@icase.edu (John Otten)
Subject: Northeast Sailplanes Catalog
Organization: ICASE/NASA Langley
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 12:33:08 GMT

I have read a couple of articles lately that mention the Northeast Sailplanes
Catalog. Can anyone send or post an address or phone number that I can use
to get more information?

Thanks,
John
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: lkawecki@novell.com (Lewis Kawecki)
Subject: FOR SALE: RC car controller, cheap!
Organization: Novell Inc., San Jose, Califonia
Distribution: rec.models.rc, ba.market.misc, misc.forsale
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 18:38:08 GMT

I want to sell my Magnum Junior controller by Futaba for $40 including shipping.

I am selling the controller, the receiver for the car, and one servo.  I am
using the other servo in another car.  The controller is in great shape.  I
just don't need it anymore.

mail replies to:
lkawecki@novell.com

Lewis Kawecki
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Heli flying (was Nose-In)
From: <RGB@psuvm.psu.edu>
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 09:16:21 EDT
Organization: Penn State University

>The other skill to work on in parallel with the figure-8's is to make
>circles around yourself.  First, just hover the heli, and have it drift
>sideways, keeping it nose-out, so that you fly it nose-out in a complete
>circle around yourself.  As you get more comfortable, SLOWLY let the nose
>come around, say 20 or 30 degrees, so that the nose is going a little bit
>in the direction the heli is flying.  Don't push getting the nose around

Whenever I do circles around myself I get pretty dizzy, granted I am slightly
dizzy to start with ....but this excercise seems a little crash prone to me.

Back to Nose-In... has any one used one of these heli training stands to learn
nose-in.  The hobby store near me rents them.
Thanks,
---
Randall G. Bock                    Center for Locomotion Studies
rgb@psuvm.psu.edu                The Pennsylvania State University
rgb@psuvm.bitnet                    The United States of America
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: wd6cmu@netcom.com (Eric Williams)
Subject: Re: Where did the single-stick transmitter go?
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Distribution: rec
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 18:10:39 GMT

Ace Electronics makes their Micropro 8000 transmitter in a single-stick
configuration.  It requires a different hand action to use single-stick,
using the thumb and forefinger on the side of the stick instead of just
resting the thumb on the top.  It's probably just convention and the
availability of transmitters that makes single-stick such a rarity.  Our
top aerobatic slope glider pilot switches back and forth between single-
and double-stick using a modified Micropro with one three-axis and one
two-axis stick.
-- 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Eric Williams     wd6cmu@netcom.com  |  Never attribute to malice that which
WD6CMU@WD6CMU.#NOCAL.CA.USA.NA       |  is adequately explained by stupidity.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: mmcevill@mitre.org (Michael A. McEvilley)
Subject: Re: Micro Servos
Organization: The MITRE Corporation
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 12:51:24 GMT

In article <BvrM37.53F@world.std.com> jlw@world.std.com (James L Walker) 
writes:
> In article <1992Oct7.175636.4463@netcom.com> wd6cmu@netcom.com (Eric 
Williams) writes:
> >As for servos, coreless servos tend to be smaller and faster (and more
> >expensive), BB servos last longer but don't have any other advantage.

> Isn't one type of servo better at centering than others?  The S148's I
> use sometimes will accept a center that is off even when there is 
> negligable slop in the linkage.

Coreless servos have precise centering, standard servos will center at a 
point somewhere in the 'vicinity' of the true center point. 

Michael 
From: earl@trsvax.tandy.com
Date: 09 Oct 92 08:34 CDT
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: friction
Message-ID: <1195667314@trsvax>
Nf-ID: #R:top.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu:15546:trsvax:1195667314:000:1824
Nf-From: trsvax.tandy.com!earl    Oct  9 08:34:00 1992



/* ---------- "friction" ---------- */
Just a note.
A tail dragger with a music wire skid ain't worth sh*t on a smooth concrete 
surface!
i.e. Very low coefficient of kinetic friction.
At least IT was only the engine mount.
Please don't post anything regarding my stupidity.  :-)   ;)
me
=======================================================================
Matthew D. Marks                  ||"Standing in the middle of the road
Mechanical Engineering Department || is very dangerous: you get knocked
The Ohio State University         || down by traffic from both sides."
e-mail: marks.23@osu.edu          ||              - Margaret Thatcher
=======================================================================
***************************

     I don't think your stupid.

     But I have two Q500's with plain tail skids, and both of them work very
     well without a tail wheel. Matter of fact you can taxi around and do 
     takeoffs (not Q500 race starts) without too much trouble. This is all off
     of a concrete flying area.

     Most all of the World War One era planes used tail skids too. The famous
     Fokker Tri-plane would be interesting on takeoffs. But considering the
     large numbers of Tri-Planes that have been built and flown it obviously
     works (albeit very tricky).


***********************************************************************


<This information is provided by an individual and is not nor should be
 construed  as  being  provided  by  Radio  Shack or Tandy Corp.  Radio
 Shack/Tandy Corp has no obligation to support the information provided
 in  any way. > 
						
						Earl W. Bollinger
						@ <trsvax!earl>


"You were in the Clone Wars!", said Luke excitedly.
"Yes", replied Obi Wan, "I was a DOS programmer. But that was before the dark
 times, before OS2."


Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: pbrickwood@tamar.compserv.utas.edu.au
Subject:  SPEED CONTROLLER
Organization: University of Tasmania at Launceston
Date: 16 Oct 92 16:28:57 +1000

I am interested in building a speed controller for a model speedboat 
which is powered with a 380 size motor on 8 X 1200 ma nicads. If necessary 
I could change to 7 nicads. I understand it may be possible using a 555
chip and a pot driven by a servo ( in this case Futaba S128) switching a 
mosfet device. Any ideas out there. I could wind a reostat with nichrome wire
but it is a bit inefficient. The Futaba controllers are around $140 Aussie.

Any ideas out there.

THANKS IN ADVANCE

Peter Brickwood 
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc,misc.forsale
From: dmm@hal.gnu.ai.mit.edu (Andrew Mathieson Moore)
Subject: Futaba 7AUFS R/C radio+servos, ~new, mint $295
Organization: MIT Laboratory for Computer Science
Distribution: us
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1992 15:43:14 GMT



Futaba 7AUFS radio control system
- 72 MHz, channel 32
- Five S148 servos
- 500 mAh receiver battery pack
- 7 channel receiver
- rechargable transmitter battery
- transmitter/receiver battery charger
- manual

This system is in mint condition, under 8 hours of use, 1 month old.
$295, I will ship.

603/669-2707 (NH)
-drew
 dmm@silver.lcs.mit.edu
 dmm@gnu.ai.mit.edu
From: rang@tartarus.uwa.edu.au (Robert Yuen Lee Ang)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: New Kyosho engines?
Date: 10 Oct 1992 14:28:58 GMT
Organization: The University of Westrn Australia
NNTP-Posting-Host: tartarus.uwa.edu.au
Summary: What are the new Kyosho car engines like?
Keywords: engine, OS-10, Kyosho


Does anyone know about the new Kyosho engines that they are releasing
with current models?  I've heard through the grapevine that Kyosho
bought over OS engines, and have now stopped shipping cars worldwide
with OS-10 engines and are instead making a new .15.  Does anyone have
one of these new engines, and if so, what is the power/speed like
compared to the original OS-10?  Is the mounting the same?  Does it use
the same carbeurettor/muffler/flywheel/recoil starter?
Thanks in advance.
Robert Ang.
:s

C



A
A
A


Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: mlachow@erenj.com (Michael Lachowski)
Subject: Re: Electric Motors/Gears/Props
Organization: CTSD
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 12:39:37 GMT

In article <sepTKke00iVgQ2OhdN@andrew.cmu.edu> ck3i+@andrew.cmu.edu (Christopher Kristof) writes:


>       What electric motor/gear box/prop combination gives the best thrust to
>weight ratio?   How much surplus thrust could I expect from it?
>       I'd like to use off-the-shelf electric model airplane motors to power a
>small flying robot.  However, I have not been able to find a product
>that has better than a 1:1 thrust to weight ratio. (taking into account
>the batteries needed to power the motor)   I may be forced to use one or
>more 2 cycle internal combustion engines.  How much thrust could I
>expect from them?  I have a K&B .40  2 cycle from an R/C plane that I
>never finished building.  How much thrust could I get out of it with an
>optimal prop?

Most smaller electrics are in the lower thrust to weight ratio. You don't 
really need to be above 1:1 for most things.

If anyone has seen a real F3E ship, you have witnessed something that far 
exceeds 1:1.  They speck out in about 10 seconds.
From: sringrose@galaxy.gov.bc.ca
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Alcyon 2M glider
Date: 8 Oct 92 13:27:00 -0700
Distribution: world
Organization: BC Systems Corporation


> Alcyon
> Has anyone out there built one, or seen one fly?  Do you have any tips on
> building or flying it?
> 
Someone was trying to pedal them up here in Dogson's back yard. He showed
the kit and it looked very nice. Good plans, decent wood, pleasant lines,
but it was a polyhedral, probably good for most conditions, but not
good enough for competion flying.

Scott Ringrose                "tell em, tell em, ahhh hang up the phone"
BCSC
SRINGROS@BCSC02.GOV.BC.CA
From: weimer@spud.NoSubdomain.NoDomain (Gary Weimer 726-3370)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Glow Plugs
Keywords: Glow Plug
Date: 14 Oct 92 20:41:18 GMT
Article-I.D.: pixel.1992Oct14.204118.14372
Reply-To: weimer@pixel.kodak.com
Organization: Eastman Kodak Co.; Rochester, NY

In article <Bw10oE.5p6@cantua.canterbury.ac.nz>, kaiser@elec.canterbury.ac.nz (Chris Kaiser) writes:
|> Also, I have a plug per engine plus one or two spares - once you have
|> things set up you shouldn't be blowing plugs unless you fly combat :-) or
|> run race type engines, etc. 

Switching the plug & starter leads to the control panel is another good
way to blow a plug... :-)

-- 

Gary Weimer (weimer@pixel.kodak.com)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: kmiller@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu (miller kendall w)
Subject: RC10T steering problem
Keywords: RC10
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 18:07:09 GMT

I just got a RC 10 team (aluminium) car and I love it, but I am having one
major problem.  First, my steering doesn't auto center right when I release
the controler-- if I release it from the right, it ends up a little pointing
right.  From the left, a little left, etc.  This makes it, as you can imagine
very difficult to control at speed (I drive on concrete/dirt) To reduce
this, I moved the rod down on my servo so that it was attatched to a lower
radius.  while this reduced it did not eliminate the afore mentioned problem,
and it increased my turning radius because the servo only pivots thru
about 100 degrees of it's travel. 

I am using the Futaba Magnum Sport remote control,
1) how can I eliminate or reduce to a minimum the centering problem, and
2) how can I do #1 and at the same time keep a good turning radius?

Any things you could come up with would be good.  I have tried both the 
middle and outer position on the RC-10 servo saver, in combination with a
couple places on my servo.

--Ken

Newsgroups: rec.models.rockets
From: dulcinea@cwis.unomaha.edu (Shaene Steinauer)
Subject: please help
Organization: University of Nebraska at Omaha
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 17:55:17 GMT

Hi! 

I amm trying to figure out a way to electronically ignite flash cotton for
a costume effect.  I found a good idea in a pyrotechnic newsgroup:  use
model rocket igniters.  They work well.  However, I'd like to achieve
the effect without having to replace the igniter every time. 

Any suggestions?

Thanks.

--Shaene Steinauer (dulcinea@cwis.unomaha.edu)

 
Newsgroups: rec.models.rockets
From: barrett@add.itg.ti.com
Subject: 29mm Nosecone?
Organization: Texas Instruments, Austin, Tx.
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 92 13:54:01 GMT

  I'm planning to add three outboard 29mm engines to my THOY Falcon.

  I'll epoxy the 29mm motor mount tubes to the side of the main body
tube.

  Does anyone know the source of nosecones that I could use for these
29mm motor mount tubes?  Nothing fancy, balsa would be fine.  I don't
need a very long one either (2-3" would be just fine).  I'll just epoxy
them onto the motor mount tube anyway.

  I've checked LOC, Aerotech, THOY catalogs and have come up empty.  I
really don't want to turn my own!

  I'll be out of pocket till next Monday, so any "answers" to my
questions should also be sent to me via e-mail since the sys-add for my
news-server may delete anything over a few days old, and I'd miss a
posted answer.

Thanks,

Stu Barrett  barrett@add.itg.ti.com
TRA#1277  NAR#4341
Newsgroups: rec.models.rockets
From: soc1070                         
Subject: Re: More NCR Problems
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: University of Minnesota CIS
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 13:12:00 GMT

Thanks everyone for posting experiences with NCR. It seems that most of 
you have had more good experiences than bad. As I said in an earlier post,
I have never bought NCR stuff, mostly because of bad QT issues I have
heard about. Maybe its just one of those things that when someone is doing
something good, no one says anything. But the minute things get a little 
screwed up, everyone jumps down their throat.

Thanks for putting me straight :)

------ 
Tim Harincar				Kill Your Television.			
Central Minnesota 		
Association of Rocketry		
soc1070@vx.acs.umn.edu		
Newsgroups: rec.models.rockets