From: mgn@cup.portal.com (Mike G Newman)
Newsgroups: rec.travel
Subject: Laos via Thailand
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 92 02:27:11 PST
Organization: The Portal System (TM)

I just got back from three weeks in Thailand and Laos.  This is intended 
to be the latest on traveling to (but not in) Laos.  My comments are 
based on information that is available in the first edition of Lonely 
Planet's "Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia" on the assumption that anyone 
interested in visiting Laos has already referred to that publication.

It is now possible to get a visa for Laos without buying any sort of 
tour package.  The price of the visa in Bangkok is $100.  This is for a 
visa (plus a few extras) that would cost $12.00 (300 baht) at the Lao 
embassy.  However, the Lao embassy will not issue visas to tourist and 
instead refers you to a travel agent.  The suspicion is that there is a 
kickback scheme involving the Lao tourism agency, the Bangkok travel 
agents and Lao embassy personnel.  You figure it out.

Many travel agents in Bangkok advertise tours to Laos.  Almost without 
exception, every one we consulted (including several recommended by 
Lonely Plant) responded with something like, "Can't you go to some other 
country?  How about Vietnam?"  Needles to say, this sort of response did 
not inspire confidence.  Finally, we went to a tiny little travel agent 
located across the street from the Lao embassy (Sathorn Tai Road and Soi 
Saint Louis 3).  They didn't speak much English, but the fact that they 
kept crossing the street with handfuls of passports indicated that they 
knew how to get visas.  The name of the agent is Rimkhong Travel & 
Tours: 18/4 Soi Saint Louis 3, Sathorn Tai Road, Sathorn, Bangkok; tel 
(662)213-0881  They seem to be a sub-agent of M.K. Ways (57/11 Wireless 
Rod., Patumwan, Bangkok; tel 254-5583; fax 254-5583.  Both of these are 
agents for Raja Tour in Vientiane.

Rimkhong travel got us visas for Laos and train tickets (which every 
other agent said would be impossible) from Bangkok to Nong Khai.  The 
price of the visa ($100.00) also included one night's hotel in Vientiane 
(at the Anou Hotel; $25.00 for a double), the services of a 'guide' upon 
entry to Laos to help you through immigration and customs, and transport 
from Thaduea (where the ferry from Nong Khai lands) to Vientiane.

The visa took seven days.  This is a problem, especially if you have 
already had as much Bangkok as you'll ever need.  We spent some time 
Christmas shopping (Christmas is as alive in Bangkok as in any Western 
city) and ran the Hash.  (If you travel and you don't know what the Hash 
is, find out.)  Then we went down to Hua Hin for a few days.  Not many 
Americans know about Hua Hin, but the Europeans have been going there 
for a few years.  It is actually the first Thai seaside resort and is a 
real pleasure unless you insist on a Phuket-style resort.

Note that over land/river entry into Laos is now permitted and is easy 
and fun.  The overnight train from Bangkok is very nice.  First class 
sleepers are $30.00 per person, each way.  The food and service were 
both wonderful.  There is a (cold) shower in the toilet.  Sunrise in 
Isan was a visual pleasure.  Morning coffee was Nescafe and was awful.

Having a guide upon entry to Laos was helpful to us because we brought 
our mountain bikes.  The customs official told us that this was the 
first time he had ever seen tourists try to bring bikes into Laos.  We 
had 15 day visas, but he gave our bikes only 4 days.  A 500 baht payment 
to Raja tour fixed that.  However, upon leaving Laos, no one checked any 
of our customs declaration papers.  (500 baht wasted?)

Having sturdy bikes in Vientiane was wonderful.  It is a great city to 
explore that way.  We had two fantastic rides up and down the river.  
Definitely recommended, if you can manage moving them about.

We never got out of Vientiane.  All the flights were full due to 
political campaigning.  Without our bikes we would have been 
disappointed and bored.  With the bikes we made good use of every 
moment.

Now is the time to go to Laos.  It is slowly opening up and developing.  
Soon, the bridge over the Mekong will be done and the magic of the ferry 
across the river will be a thing of the past.

If you go, don't miss our favorite little eating spot, 'Just For Fun'.  
It's run by a group of Thais who work for NGO's in Laos and who opened 
the restaurant, Just For Fun.  It's just off the fountain and has the 
best brewed Lao coffee we could find.  Maybe it will be open for 
breakfast by the time you read this.

Please e-mail comments and questions.

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