HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: cf036@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (G. Gary Preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: 3 phase question
Date: 25 Dec 1992 20:10:18 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc10.ins.cwru.edu


Your incoming single-phase power should be applied directly to
to one winding and the capacitor should be wired between one of
the energized legs and the deenergized leg, assuming the three
phase motor is wye-connected.  It doesn't matter which way you
connect the three winding wires, since the motor is completely
symmetric.  The only thing that changes depending upon which
two winding legs the capacitor is connected is the direction
of rotation, which is irrelevant for the converter.  The
capacitor should be sized to carry full-load current, wheich
means that the internal resistance of the capacitor should be
low.  The capacitance of the capacitor is selected by determining
the expected phase shift (120 degrees) between one leg of the
wye and the other.  For this you need to know the inductance
of the converter windings and the expected full load current
the converter is expected to supply.  To analyze this correctly,
you need to use "symmetrical components"(Wagner 1932) because
the converter is an unbalanced three-phase circuit.
Symmetrical components is a mathematical method of separating
the unbalanced current flows into rotating, counter-rotating,
and non-rotating components which together add by super-
position to make the actual currents.

Correctly wired, your converter is self starting.  It acts
like a capacitor-start, capacitor-run single phase
induction motor, and you should not need to mechanically
spin it to start it.
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Help for a NOVICE father to be.
Date: 3 Jan 93 03:35:50 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <SCHULTZ.92Dec31210325@halley.est.3m.com> schultz@halley.est.3m.com (John C. Schultz) writes:
>Some friends of my wife's are professional woodworkers and one of the
>hardest tasks they undertook was to make a crib.  Not only are they
>difficult to make, but the government regulates the construction to
>ensure that children do not get get their body parts stuck between
>bars, in corners or in any decorative molding.

Cribs aren't that hard to make, just time consuming.  Lots of pieces, but
the precision required ain't that great.  Would take forever without power
tools.  They're bigger than you think.  And the hardware (if you're going
with a drop-side) may be hard to obtain.

"Regulates the construction" is a bit misleading - implying more control
than there actually is.  The government publishes a minimum safety standard,
and the "control" is a ban on sales if the crib fails to meet the standard.
[At least in Canada that is.  I'm not sure how much power the equivalent US
agency has.]  It doesn't, for example, require licensing or other more
bureaucratic garbage.

There is a FAQ on crib safety standards which was just posted.  It should
be read by anybody contemplating building a crib or cradle.  For that matter,
it should be read by anybody contemplating a used crib/cradle.

A crib is probably more than a novice should tackle.

A cradle can be made fairly easily, but there's lots of room for making it
fancier.  A slab side cradle is something that could be built with a handsaw
and minimal tools.  It's not much more than a simple box.  The hardest part
is curved cutting of the rockers - and that ain't difficult.

Some people will recommend against building a cradle, because a child will
use it for a relatively short time.  Which is true.  On the other hand,
for a novice who really wants to build something that's simple and their
child can sleep in right away, it's the best choice.  And in our case,
I built two cradles (one was *supposed* to be a teddy bear bed for the
mother-in-law), and they're still in daily use three years after Gregory
got too big for them.

Another item which might be better to do is a change table top.  Just
a board with a railing around it.  It'll be in use for about 2 years.
Often longer than a crib.

Another is a bed frame for a crib mattress when the child gets a little
older.

Read the FAQ - it covers what you need to know about safety of cribs
and cradles.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: coloured stains for kids blocks
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1992 18:07:55 GMT

gcohen@mailer.cc.fsu.edu (Gregory Cohen) writes:
: In article <1992Dec23.194322.2666@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com> billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson) writes:
: >: chew on it.  The only problems I have encountered are the extended drying 
: >: time and color-fastness...Any Suggestions?
: >
: >I would be concerned about the bacteria that could develop on the stain.
: >Fruit/berry juice is a near ideal medium for such growth.
: >
: >Bill
: 
: I would think that the berry juce once dried would not be too much of a
: problem.  these juices have been used as fabric dyes for milenia and as 
: far as I can tell bacteria has not grown.  I know my natrualy dyed cloth
: is fine.  Perhapse this is a question fot the textile group.

Well, remember that cloth is washed, after it is dyed. This would remove any
sugars.  Also, a mordant is generally used to make the fabric more colorfast.

There may be no need for concern. However, the "natural" method/process is
not always the best or safest.

Bill
From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1992 17:43:03 GMT
Subject: Re: Cabinet saws... what are they?
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds) writes:
>Tony Poyner writes
>> I thought the major difference is that cabinet saws support the arbor 
>> assembly by attaching it to the base of the saw, and the table bolts 
>> on top.  As opposed to a contractor's saw where the arbor assembly
>> is attached to and is supported by the table. 
>
>Nope. All saws I've looked closely at, cabinet or otherwise, bolt the
>carriage directly to the table.
>
>What would the advantage be of bolting the arbor carriage to the base
>instead of the top?  An important criteria is the relationship of the 
>blade to the table, so it makes sense to bolt the the carriage that 
>supports the blade directly to the table. Going through an intermediatary
>like a sheet metal enclosure would only lead to problems.
>
>What cabinet saws have you seen that don't bolt the carriage to the
>table?
>----------

   I have seen several "cabinet" saws that bolt the arbor to structural
   members inside the case, making it independent from the table top.
   The carriage is not bolted to a sheep metal enclosure, but to a 
   structural framework to which the table top is also bolted.

   The advantage is that the table top can be loosened and moved with
   respect to the arbor (for instance, to align the blade to the
   miter guage slots).    It is quite easy to move the table alone and
   set the alignment.   It is much more difficult to move the arbor
   with respect to the table in a saw that bolts the arbor to the
   table saw, like most contractor's saws do.  

   I believe the Delta Unisaw is set up like this.

   I have thought much about upgrading to a cabinet saw, and this is one
   of my criteria.
From: tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Spending too much time in the shop!!
Date: 25 Dec 92 20:21:54 GMT
Organization: University of Arizona UNIX Users Group

I haven't wrapped Christmas Presents in the shop yet (I just tape the bags
closed or drop 'em in a plastic trash bag and duct tape the heck out of it),
but I found it amusing when I cut myself recently, and I found myself 
thinking that the cut was small enough that my bark would close over the
hole in a few days...

Bark?  When did I become a tree?
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: hberg@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu (Steven D Hilberg)
Subject: Re: Pressure treated plywood
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1992 20:37:43 GMT

In article <1992Dec29.152736.14271@cas.org> jeb26@cas.org (Jim Bossenbroek) writes:
>I discovered this group a few months ago and have enjoyed it ever since.  I'm 
>especially impressed with the congeniality of the group and lack of flames.
>
>It appears that my next project is to provide a basketball hoop and backboard
>for #2 daughter.  Is 3/4" pressure treated plywood an appropriate choice for the
>backboard?  Should the edges be treated in any special way to accommodate the
>weather?  I have in mind that the plywood should be allowed to weather for a 
>period of weeks/months before painting.  Correct?  Those with experience please
>share your insights.  thanks jb
>
>-- 
Jim,


Not meaning to be sarcastic, but have you considered --buying-- a 
backboard and hoop?  I'm not sure what PT plywood runs, but from
what I've seen you can buy a nice fiberglass backboard with hoop and
net for under $50.  Throw in a steel pole and mounting hardware and
the price goes up to $89 or $99...that's what I paid for the one that's
now permanently located off the side of our driveway (saves wear and 
tear on the garage doors :-)).

-Steve-
-- 
Steve Hilberg       __     "Some people are weatherwise but 
               *   /--      most are otherwise."  BF
              * * x
               * 
From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 23:48:31 GMT
Subject: Re: French Dovetails?
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

roy@willow writes:
>
>Actually I think well made dovetails are much more decorative than a 
>coverup operation. You could even get one of those fancy-pants jigs 
>that all the magazines have and do tarted-up dovetails...
>
>Roy

   "tarted-up" ?

   I love this colorful language!
From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 17:37:50 GMT
Subject: Re: "Rainforest Destruction Has Many Victims"
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson) writes:
>hubcap@hubcap.clemson.edu (System Janitor) writes:
>: 
>: I've heard that (about) 95% of the deforestation is attributable to indigenous
>: personnel slash-and-burning for farmland (which is only good for a couple
>: of years, and then they move on), and only 5% is due to any kind of
>: organized timber industry.
>: 
>: True? BS? 


   One of the reasons why locals (re: the corrupt governments) encourage
   slash and burn is because they do not see immediate gain from 
   a sustainable practice.  By buying woods only from sustainable sources
   you encourage the use of existing rainforests.  By buying from 
   non-renewable sources, you actually encourage locals to slash and
   burn, because there is no economic incentive for them to preserve the
   forest.   They can make a faster buck by clearing the land and raising
   beef on it for export.

   
>This is certainly true in Brazil. I don't know about all the other
>countries.  Another fact - the rate of deforestation in Brazil has
>been at the rate of 0.5%/year.

   Could you please cite a reference for this "fact"?

>The greatest worry is loss of topsoil.

   I hate to say it, Bill, but this sounds more like an opinion.
   I have heard a number of experts indicate that loss of the forest
   and species diversity is the greatest worry.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: gcohen@mailer.cc.fsu.edu (Gregory Cohen)
Subject: Re: Ryobi Table Saw
Organization: Florida State University
Date: Fri, 1 Jan 93 22:47:28 GMT

In article <01GSZ0YLBZ8Y0001PI@LIFE.UAMS.EDU> "Wile E. Coyote" <BBHULSEY@LIFE.UAMS.EDU> writes:
>Greetings!
>
>Does anyone out there have any experience with the new Ryobi table saw with
>the sliding table?  Sorry, I don't remember the model off the top of my head,
>but I'm sure it's the only one if its kind Ryobi sells.  I'm kind of thinking
>about buying a saw, and this one seems to have a lot of interesting features.
>I'm concerned about how well it's constructed, accuracy, etc., though.  No one
>around here has one (I'd have to mail order it if I decided to get one).  Is
>this saw suitable for fine woodworking or is it more of a general contractor's
>saw?  Any information appreciated.  Thanks, and have a happy new year!
>
>.......
>:  o/ : Bruce Hulsey
>: <|  : Univ. of Arkansas for Medical Sciences
>: / > : internet: bbhulsey@life.uams.edu
>:.....: bitnet:   bbhulsey@uams

There was a good article on this saw in a recent woodworking mag. (wood I think)
They liked it alot, and went on about it's accuracy and engineering advances.
The only negitive that they had was about the high-impact plastic used for some
stops and grips and stuff.   Their investigations showed that these peices were
inexpensive to replace, but (if I remember correctly) not too easy to come by
yet.  Ryobi is going to fix this soon.  If you get it, tell me how it is, I'm
looking to get one in about a year if it is as nice as I think it is.

-GReg
gcohen@mailer.acns.fsu.edu

Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-Acknowledge-To: <PH500000@BROWNVM>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 29 Dec 1992 15:15:28 EST
From:         Bob Pelcovits <PH500000@BROWNVM.BITNET>
Subject:      Woodhaven Biscuit System

Has anyone purchased and used the Woodhaven router biscuit system? The latest
issue of FWW gives it a good review. I would be interested in hearing more.
The review says that it's especially good for face-frame joinery. I would
probably use it for that, but will it also do a decent job in joining panels?
Thanks,


                                  --Bob Pelcovits
                                  Robert_Pelcovits@brown.edu
                                  (401)-863-1432
                                  FAX (401)-863-1157
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mtb@cray.com (Michael Brown)
Subject: Jointers, Which one to buy?
Keywords: jointer
Reply-To: mtb@cray.com
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 23 Dec 92 09:04:44 CST

I'm in the market for a six inch jointer and the many choices have got me confused.  
If my wallet was big enough I'd get the Delta DJ15, I've also looked at the
Delta six inch motorized unit but I don't care for the short bed and extruded 
aluminum fence.  So its one of AMT 4183, Jet JJ-6CS, Grizzly G1182, Sunhill CT-60L,
or Bridgewood BW-6R and BW-6J.  These all have 6x42-52 inch beds, 4x28 inch fences,
made in Taiwan, and sell for $350 to $450.  I'm looking for opinions and 
past experiences with any of the above machines.

Quality is my main concern.  In the past I ordered a table saw from AMT and found
the castings to be rough and pitted - they did honor their 20 day return policy.

Any input would be appreciated - Thanks.
From: tlp00@ras.amdahl.com (Tibor Polgar)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Safest way to use radial arm saw?
Date: 21 Dec 92 22:51:07 GMT
Reply-To: tlp00@ras.amdahl.com
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

In article 5565@acheron.uucp, clarke@acheron.uucp (Ed Clarke/10240000) writes:
>From article <Treble-181292095032@asc438.asc.slb.com>, by Treble@asc.slb.com (John Treble):
>I don't think that you CAN put a guard on a wobble dado on a Sears saw.
>You have to run guardless.

I've used single and double blade dados on my Sears RAS with a guard. No amount of money could convince me to do otherwise!!!!

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Tibor L. Polgar    |  (408) 746-8649     | tlp00@climb.ras.amdahl.com
| Amdahl Corporation
| 1250 East Arques Avenue (M/S 281)
| P.O. Box 3470
| Sunnyvale, CA 94088-3470
|
| The opinions expressed above are mine, solely, and do not in any way
| shape or form reflect the opinions or policies of Amdahl Corp.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: schultz@halley.est.3m.com (John C. Schultz)
Subject: Re: Help for a NOVICE father to be.
In-reply-to: z_kennedypc@ccsvax.sfasu.edu's message of 30 Dec 92 08:48:07 CST
Organization: 3M Company, 3M Center, Minnesota, USA
Date: Fri, 1 Jan 93 03:08:50 GMT

Some friends of my wife's are professional woodworkers and one of the
hardest tasks they undertook was to make a crib.  Not only are they
difficult to make, but the government regulates the construction to
ensure that children do not get get their body parts stuck between
bars, in corners or in any decorative molding.

Rather than make a crib, why not make toys?  My kids loved a elephant
rocker until they outgrew it.  If you are really ambitious try a
high-chair - at least you will not be leaving your baby (daughters are
fun too :-) alone while s/he is in the high-chair.
--
   John C. Schultz   +1 (612) 733-4047   schultz@halley.serc.3m.com
   How to include the taste of Glendronach in a multi-media system?
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: Cabinet saws... what are they?
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 20:06:05 GMT

I wrote
> Tony Poyner writes
> > I thought the major difference is that cabinet saws support the arbor 
> > assembly by attaching it to the base of the saw, and the table bolts 
> > on top.  As opposed to a contractor's saw where the arbor assembly
> > is attached to and is supported by the table. 
> 
> Nope.

I was wrong. Sorry.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Delta Sidekick vs. sliding miter sawa
Date: 17 Dec 92 19:38:09 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.


Some time in the coming year, I am probably going to plop some money
down for a cutoff saw of some sort.  Up to now, I had been primarily
considering one of the sliding compound miter saws out there (offhand,
I know Makita, Ryobi, and Hitachi all have comperable models).  I recently
got a look at the Delta Sidekick Frame and Trim saw, which appears to
be much like a portable RAS, in that there is no "chop" action to
the cut.  Since it swivels on two planes, it would seem to give more or less
the same compound cut capability as the SCM saws, with what appears to be a
wider cut capacity (10-12", depending on the angle cut).  It also has a
better price than the SCMs (which go for about mid $400s) at $367. 

My question is: does anyone have any opinions on the relative merits of these
saws?  Has anyone actually used the Delta Sidekick?  My main concern is that,
being billed as a frame and trim saw, its accuracy may be poorer than those
of the SCMs.

Dave
-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
"I look back with some satisfaction on what an idiot I was when I was 25,
 but when I do that, I'm assuming I'm no longer an idiot." - Andy Rooney
From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 19:20:07 GMT
Subject: Re: re: Jointer vs Planer - Thanks
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
From: davidb@hpmcaa.mcm.hp.com.mcm.hp.com (David Burton)
Subject: Re: Looking for Total Shop address
Organization: HP Cardiology Business Unit - McMinnville, OR
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL7]
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1992 21:24:45 GMT

Alden  Hackmann (darkstar@carson.u.washington.edu) wrote:
: We saw a Total Shop 21" scroll saw at a woodworking show a few months ago.
: Unfortunately we don't have their address. Can anyone tell me:
: 
: a) The mailing address and/or phone number of Total Shop.
: 
: b) If you have experience with the Total Shop scroll saw, I'd like to hear
:    about it.  I know there are many review articles, but I prefer real 
:    reviews from real people. 
: 
: Reply by email please. 
: 
: Alden Hackmann 
: darkstar@u.washington.edu



	I saw the Total Shop unit at a local show ($500.00).  I even ordered
	one but cancelled when I saw the woodtek from woodworkers supply
	looked identical for $100.00 less.  I bought the woodtek but was
	disappointed in the quality and slop in the bearings and sent it
	back.  The Total shop claims to have US bearings and motor.  I ended
	up with an RBI from the factory.  It was a demo unit with no motor
 	for $500.00.  Much better built than either Total shop or woodtek.
	I haven't made my final descision about how well I like the RBI
	lower blade holder or the pull back motion of the blade on the up-
	stroke.	
	Hegner also quoted me $500.00 on a re-worked unit with no motor.

	David Burton
	503-434-8395

From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 21:51:06 GMT
Subject: Re: Walker-Turner Jointer Blade Install
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

ag900@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (David Burris) writes:

>In a previous article, gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz) says:
>
>Stuff deleted...................
>
>>  The cheapest 6" jointer with a center-mount fence I could find was the
>>  Grizzley for $359, but I couldn't see it.  It is probably typical taiwan
>>  construction.
>
>Actually the Grizzly 6" jointer is one of the best deals going for the
>home woodworker.The table is almost 48", making it ideal all kinds of
>jointing. It goes for $345 on sale and mine has worked flawlessly for 2
>years. As far as judging it as 'typical' Taiwan construction, sight
>unseen, is ludicrous at best.

   Now, now.  How is it ludicrous?  I have a number of taiwan machines
   in my shop, and I am sure the grizzly is typical.  If you think 
   "typical" means "bad", you might want to check a dictionary.  This was
   no flame of the grizzly machine.

   My Jet jointer is a typical taiwan machine.  The controls are not
   exactly overwrought (it has simple bolts for the positive stops for
   90 and 45 degree fence settings, unlike the more expensive models)
   but they work.  I took a file and filed out the throat a little to
   give me more leeway in moving the blades back and forth on the 
   cutter head, and I filed out the groove that the fence hold-down
   moves in to give it smoother motion.   Other than that, the machine
   is excellent quality, with dead flat parallel table tops and fence,
   a strong, quiet 3/4hp motor, etc.

   I am sure the Grizzly is comparable, and this is what I meant.
   I would have bought the Grizzly but there was an 8 week waiting
   list, and again, I hesitate to buy any machine I can't see.  It is
   worth it to me to pay $50 more and operate the machine beforehand.

   I realize that ever since Gary Preckshot's interesting and amusing
   posting about his bandsaw, there has been a certain amount of
   high-spirited controversy about Grizzly, but let's not get carried
   away.
From: kassover@rumsey.crd.ge.com (David Kassover)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Piano kits & CD scratches
Date: 21 Dec 92 17:52:32 GMT
Organization: nope

In article <4320090@hpcc01.corp.hp.com> gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz) writes:
>Actually, the original author might be interested to know that there are
>a number of good harpsichord and clavichord kit makers around.  Some of them
>advertise in FWW.
>
>If you really want to make a nice piece of furniture that you can play, the
>harpsichord isn't a bad way to go.

I had the opportunity to play a kit-made harpsichord yesterday
(A virginals, actually)  This was a Hubbard, but many people seem
to consider the Zuckerman the better kit.

Some others at the gathering yesterday expressed doubt as to
whether Zuckerman is still in business.

I suppose I could ferret out more detailed info.



-- 
David Kassover             "Proper technique helps protect you against
uupsi!khazad!kassover	          sharp weapons and dull judges."
kassover@aule-tek.com                   F. Collins
kassover@ra.crd.ge.com