HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: millios@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (william.l.millios)
Subject: Re: Sharpening and using scrapers
Organization: AT&T
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 18:19:25 GMT

In article <WOODWORK%92111119425597@IPFWVM.BITNET> Jim Morgan <JMORGAN@BROWNVM.BITNET> writes:
>>I used the "file and burnish" technique to sharpen mine with
>>moderate success, but the process is still very much trial and
>>error to me.  Is it worth investing in a burnishing gadget?
>>
>I have the Veritas Variable Burnisher (recently marked down to $29.95) on
>my wish list this year - seems like a good idea if you're going to be
>using a scraper a lot.  

I got the Veritas gadget, and wasn't impressed.  It's kind of cheesy,
I thought, and in my preliminary, "let's see how a scraper works"
experimentations, I found I was better able to get a good hook with
the use of a burnisher than with the gadget.  Save the 30 bucks and
buy another router bit.  (grin)

Bill
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bds@mbunix.mitre.org (Smith)
Subject: Re: Dream Saw (long)
Organization: The MITRE Corporation, Bedford, MA
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 19:46:50 GMT

In article <1992Nov23.173806.13256@adobe.com> bennett@adobe.com writes:
>Smith writes
>> I think Bennett makes a very strong case that the Inca 12" table saw
>> is a lot better than the Delta, Powermatic, General, and other 10"
>> table saws.  But it is also almost $1000 more, so you would expect
>> that.
>
>Wait a minute, you're comparing Inca's list price to the discount price you 
>can get the others for. The Inca is goes "on sale" twice each year for about 
>$2200. The Unisaw with 3 HP motor and Unifence is about $1700 - that's a 
>$500 difference (I'd stack the Inca's standard fence up against the 
>Unifence anyday). And, don't forget to add in the cost of the Delta's
>motor cover ($60) and an upgrade to the miter guage (an Accu-miter is
>about $148).
>
>- Bennett Leeds

Yes, of course you're right, with a couple of caveats.  First, adding
options is a form of equalizing the saws (the Inca's fence is much
better than the standard Delta fence, but not much better than the
Unifence, the Inca's miter gauge us better than the Delta's standard
miter gauge but not muct better than an Accu-miter, etc.).  Second, I
believe the $1700 price is a few hundred dollars higher than the low
price of each year.

Given that, I agree that the Inca is quite a machine, and is probably
worth $1000 more than the Unisaw, whether it costs it or not.  The
point is that it is in a different class than the better 10" saws.
The point of my posting was to present a possible alternative to the
Inca, not to stand up for the Delta or Powermatic or General (these
could probably stand up for themselves since they define their own
niche in the market).  The Davis and Wells is a possible contender,
not because it is better than the Inca but because it offers features
that the Inca doesn't offer, and these features are important to some
prospective buyers.  I'm sure there are other saws in the $2500 price
range, too, although I don't know what they are.

Barry



Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: lester@naomi.b23b.ingr.com (Les Bartel)
Subject: End treatment for pressure treated wood
Reply-To: lester@naomi.b23b.ingr.com
Organization: Intergraph Corporation
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 14:35:58 GMT

I keep hearing that you should apply an end treatment to any areas on
PT wood that you cut.  I thought that the idea of PT wood was that the
original treatment fully penetrated the wood so you wouldn't have to
do any special treatment to cut ends/dados/notches/whatever.  What's
the story?

 - les

-- 
Les Bartel			lester@naomi.b23b.ingr.com
Intergraph Corporation		Huntsville, AL
Electronics Division		(205) 730-8537

To the cat, the experimenter is problematic.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jrdailey@cbnewse.cb.att.com (j.rex.dailey)
Subject: Re: Scraping/Burnishing versus Sanding
Organization: AT&T
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 03:44:09 GMT

From article <Bxx494.Dr6@hpuerca.atl.hp.com>, by jp@hpuerca.atl.hp.com (John Pierce):
> 
> Hi, gang!
> 
STUFF DELETED
> 
> I noticed that the scraper made the edges glossy, even on end grain.  The
> smaller the surface area, the glossier it was.  I looked and wondered.
> 
> Then it hit me.  In Frank Klausz's Wood Finishing video, he did a demo on
> a piece of walnut with "wild grain."  He planed it, then scraped it,
> then sanded.  He explained that he sanded it because the scraper "crushed
> the fibers."
> 
> Of course!  When you use a scraper, the scraper does more than just cut
> grain with the burr, it actually burnishes the wood by compressing the
> fibers.  Remember, the burr is sharp on the cutting edge, but rounded on
> the part that follows.  That's why it looks so good.
> 
STUFF DELETED
> 
> So, I'd think that is why Frank Klausz uses sandpaper after scraping:  not
> to smooth, but to rough up the surface to allow a better bond.  This would
> open the fibers and allow the finish material to either penetrate more
> deeply (for oil, etc) or to grip more area (for a surface finish).
> 
> And if you *want* a burnished (less porous) surface, use the scraper, or
> even burnish with a polished burnishing tool of some sort.
> 
> Are these thoughts off base?  Hmm...it will be interesting to see what
> discussion will come after this.
> 
> 
> ---
> 	#################ANY#OPINONS#HERE#ARE#MY#OWN####################
> 				John Pierce
> 			 Atlanta Technology Center
> 			  jdp@itpg004.atl.hp.com
> 			      (404) 850-2492

John,

The last thing Frank Klausz does to the piece of walnut is to sand it
BECAUSE (using his words) "the wood will accept the stain or finish more
evenly on a freshly sanded surface".  While the scraped surface looks
great, the sanded wood pores are not burnished and are more open.  So they 
will more uniformly take the stain or finish being supplied.

Rex Dailey
jrdailey @ cbnewse.cb.att.com
From: tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Roy Underhill is a good turner.  Norm ain't.
Date: 18 Nov 92 01:10:59 GMT
Distribution: world, usa, na
Organization: University of Arizona UNIX Users Group


This weekend I had the pleasure of watching Roy Underhill (the woodwrights
shop) doing a little bit of turning on Walnut.  The guy is a darned fine
turner!   He handled the skew like he knew what he was doing.  He used
the bevel to burnish the wood.  He used the gouges very well too.

(excuse me for a second...  [sounds of clothing being put on]  Ahh, now that
I have asbestos undies on,  let me proceed and defame a religious character)

This was in distinct contrast to watching Norm Abhrams hacking at a lathe 
on The New Yankee Powertool Advertising Show a few months ago.  Norm
used scraping cuts, and basically abused the wood into shape.   He really
didn't know what he was doing.  

For those of you who want to learn how to turn,  buy the Richard Raffin tape
from FWW, or watch Underhill.  But for heavens sake, don't learn from Norm.

[sounds of somebody running for cover]
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: rdc@world.std.com (Ralph D Clifford)
Subject: Re: CAD and project design
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 14:18:50 GMT

In article <168A310B42.WHERRYD@wsuvm1.csc.wsu.edu> WHERRYD@wsuvm1.csc.wsu.edu writes:
>I recently acquired my dream home computer system and I'm interested
>in drawing up some of my wood project plans with a CAD system.  But
>what to use?  GenericCAD? AutoCAD? EasyCAD? TurboCAD? DesignCAD? And
>the list goes on!  My minimum requirement is that the system check
>dimensions for me, that is, a total dimension is equal to the sum of
>its component dimensions on the drawing.  But I would rejoice in a
>system that would build exploded isometric views from three elevation
>views (if that's possible).  I imagine AutoCAD is the most flexible, but
>it also carries a steep learning curve that I'd like to avoid unless
>it's absolutely necessary.
> 
>I was intrigued to find a list of woodworkers communicating digitally.
>Seems like a natural place to find some folks who use CAD as well.
> 
>Thanks in advance for any advice and/or experiences.
> 
>David Wherry
>wherryd@wsuvm1.csc.wsu.edu
> 
     I am just learning the world of CAD for use in woodworking.  What I have
started with is a book from Microsoft entitled "Learn CAD Now."  It both gives
lessons on how to effectively use CAD (Something that I have not found to be
intuitive) and provided a CAD program entitled EasyCAD2.  EasyCAD2 is not a
professional level program, but has most of the features needed by a hobbiest.
Additionally, I can upgrade to the same company's (Evolution Computing) full
CAD program (FastCAD or FastCAD 3D).  Best of all was the price, around $40.00
for both the book and the software.

     I have no connection with either Microsoft or Evolution Computing.



-- 
Ralph Clifford
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas S. Rand)
Subject: Re: 115-piece drill set
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 16:24:36 GMT

In article <By31qs.5Ks@ipars.cts.com>, scotto@ipars.cts.com (Scott O'Connell) writes:
|> 
|> I'm looking for a 115-piece drill bit set and am confused about the different
|> imported sets.  I've seen the following:
|> 
|> 	China			$34
|> 	Taiwan			$73
|> 	Vermont American	$214
|> 	Hansen			$275
|> 
|> I have no problem purchasing the Hansen if they'r really worth it.  I would
|> be using these bits in steel, aluminum, plastic and wood.  I want something
|> that will last.
|> 
|> Anyone have good information on these or other ideas?  Thanks in advance!

Just my opinions:

Hansen is good quality HSS.  They also make taps, dies,  etc.  Vermont American
is OK.  I have a small set of titanium nitride coated bits of theirs
which are lasting just OK.  Some of the more used bits are losing
the coating.

I recommend getting different bits for wood.  Twist drills are really designed 
for metal.  The flutes are too small for wood chips and they don't cut the 
wood as well.  It doesn't mean I don't use them for wood,  but they aren't a
great choice.  For wood get brad point bits for up to around 1/2" and 
ideally Forstner bits for larger up to about 2",  spade bits are an 
acceptable alternative.

If I were getting one of the dirt cheap Asian sets,  I'd want to get a small
inexpensive set and check out the temper and sharpness.  Here's one way to
see if they are reasonable.  Feel the edge of the flute.  There should be 
a sharpened edge ground slightly (a couple thousanths) higher then the
body of the drill.  It should be so sharp that you could cut yourself.
No edge?  Don't buy.  

If you want to check out the hardness.  Wear saftey glasses and try bending
a small bit,  1/16", held in a vise.  It should shatter.  If it bends,  
don't buy it.

Quality twist drills will be made of HSS.  Look for elements like Vanadium
and Chromium in the steel alloy.  Vanadium HSS is very good.  High carbon
steel is usually pretty cheap.  Good only for kitchen knives.

Doug

-- 
Douglas S. Rand <drand@osf.org>		OSF/Motif Dev.
Snail:         11 Cambridge Center,  Cambridge,  MA  02142
Disclaimer:    I don't know if OSF agrees with me... let's vote on it.
Amateur Radio: KC1KJ
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: marc@breeze.bellcore.com (Marc F Pucci)
Subject: Re: Lumber storage rack
Reply-To: marc@bellcore.com (Marc F Pucci)
Organization: Bellcore, Morristown, NJ
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 92 17:01:25 GMT

In article <Bxq9vA.MvI@world.std.com> rdc@world.std.com (Ralph D Clifford) writes:
>     I have decided that the time has come to build something to store lumber
> ...
>     I have approx. a 4' by 12' spot in my basement to store the wood.  The
>
>     My initial idea is to build platforms out of 2x4 covered with 3/4" ply.

I just added a rack set-up to my shop.  I was planning on using 2x4's but
while at my local Home Deopt I found some heavy duty shelf standards
and supports.  The supports came in lengths up to 2 feet or so.  I used
the 14" ones.  I don't remember the manufacturer, I've seen it advertised
in wood rags.  The shape is unique: standards have 2 columns of slots
and the supports look like conventional ones but are made of U shaped metal.
Claim to be good for over 130 pounds when evenly distributed.  The main
advantages are they are movable and open on all sides; something you won't
get with a 2x4 frame.  I made simple shelves withe standards every 2 feet
and 3/4" plywood shelf (overkill).
I can look up the name if you can't find it.

Marc Pucci
marc@bellcore.com
From: MOROURKE@cmsa.gmr.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Roy Underhill is a good turner.  Norm ain't.
Date: 20 Nov 92 18:12:21 GMT
Organization: GM Research Labs

In article <1992Nov18.011059.13502@organpipe.uug.arizona.edu>
tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin) writes:

>
>
>This weekend I had the pleasure of watching Roy Underhill (the woodwrights
>shop) etc.
>
Is Roy Underhill on in the Detroit area?  I don't watch the tube enough
to run into his show and haven't noticed a listing in the paper.

Mike O'Rourke
ARS AA8W
From: sestrich@yeti.bbn.com (Joe Sestrich)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Magnetic Featherboard
Date: 18 Nov 92 16:04:41
Organization: BBN Communications, Cambridge, MA
NNTP-Posting-Host: yeti.bbn.com
In-reply-to: wma@atlanta.dg.com's message of Tue, 17 Nov 92 22:56:18 GMT



	The magnetic featherboard I have (from Woodworker's Supply)
	does indeed work nicely. 
	There are some annoyances though:

	1) It takes a bit of practice to get it set up for a cut. The
	   magnet is REALLY strong, so small adjustments aren't trivial.

	2) It's most useful when you've got a narrow board to rip.  At
	   the same time, however, it's a bit of a problem in that at
	   the end of the cut, right when things are getting a little
	   wobbly, the board runs off the finger board.

	3) To hold the board properly, you would like to put the finger
	   board right at the saw blade. BUT, when the cut finishes the
	   spring action pushes the off-cut into the blade.  This means
	   you place the holder farther back

	4) It sometimes becomes necessary to use 2 push sticks to get
	   both pieces to clear the saw.  I usually like to just let the
	   offcut fall off the table or just rest next to the blade. With
	   the fingerboard pushing the offcut into the blade, you want to
	   get it off the saw right away.

	Am I just using this thing screwy or what???  How's about
	a description of the proper way to set up a regular featherboard.
	I would assume this would be easier, since a featherboard has
	much less spring to it...

					Joe Sestrich


	
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ericb@microsoft.com (Eric Brown)
Subject: Re: Circular Saw recommendations
Date: 19 Nov 92 23:34:49 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp
Distribution: na

In article  Larry Meadows writes:
|...
|He does, however, say that when using a router,
|"Both ends of the T-square must be clamped when routing dadoes; otherwise,
|there's enough play in the free end of the T-square to allow the dado
|to drift off course by 1/8 in."
|...

I just wanted to point out that a router can generate a significant amount
of lateral force while cutting, whereas the only lateral force from a
circular saw is that applied by the operator to hold it to the fence.
Thus the recommendation to clamp the free end of the T-square blade when
routing.

Also, I have both sidewinder and worm drive Skil saws and find that I use
the sidewinder when weight is a concern but otherwise use the worm drive
because it is easier to control.  There is an additional advantage to
having one of each: the motors are on opposite sides of the blades on
each, so there are circumstances when cutting in a tight location or
close to an edge where one might be easier to use than the other (e.g.
being able to see the cut line, comfort and leverage of holding the
saw, etc).

And remember, use eye and ear protection and *don't* wedge the blade
guard open (I won't relate some of the horror stories I have heard).
(I suppose I should be thorough and add use nose protection as well
if you are generating a lot of dust.)


-- 
    Eric
               Microsoft Systems, Advanced Systems Development
            {sun, uw-beaver, apple, uunet, fluke}!microsoft!ericb 
                       internet: ericb@microsoft.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas S. Rand)
Subject: Electric drills
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 21:09:29 GMT

I purchased a DeWalt 3/8" VSR drill the other day for $55 at Home Depot.
I'm quite impressed with the quality for the price.  The construction 
has ball bearings at all points,  not a cheap thrust bearing in the
lot.  The handle is nice to hold and the drill has plenty of power for
a small handheld.  Now I just have to find someone to donate my old
Sears to.

One negative was that a nice keyless chuck I bought (Porter Cable) didn't
work with the new drill.  As an aside, the salesman at HD insisted that
DeWalt is not B&D professional warmed over.  But I'm happy.

-- 
Douglas S. Rand <drand@osf.org>		OSF/Motif Dev.
Snail:         11 Cambridge Center,  Cambridge,  MA  02142
Disclaimer:    I don't know if OSF agrees with me... let's vote on it.
Amateur Radio: KC1KJ
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: fred@mks.com (Fred Kratky)
Subject: hand planes, re-gluing a joint
Keywords: help
Organization: Mortice Kern Systems Inc., Waterloo, Ontario, CANADA
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 17:00:40 GMT

1) hand planes

I just inherited several hand planes, now I need to know what they are
used for so I can give them a test drive.

The first it an old Stanley Bailye #28 wood plane.  It looks like it
would be used for smoothing and jointing??

The second is a Stanley #4.

2) re-gluing joints

I have two joints on my pannel construction aquarium stand that have
come apart (at the glie line).  How do I go about re-gluing these?  It
appears the wood has warped away from the joint a little (1/8" to
3/16").  Is this going to cause problems when I re-glue?

I can't tell if the pannel is actually glued to the frame and is
responsible for pushing the joint apart.  There does not appear to be
any movement in either pannel, though they are supposed to be free
floating.  If it is the pannel expanding and pushing the glue apart,
what do I do???
-- 
     ||  // // ,'/~~\'   Fred Kratky		fred@mks.com 
    /||/// //|' `\\\     Mortice Kern Systems Inc.     (519) 884-2251
   / | //_// ||\___/     35 King St. N., Waterloo, Ont., Can. N2J 2W9
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: paul.robinson@rose.com (paul robinson)
Subject: Record Lathes RFI
Organization: Rose Media Inc, Toronto, Ontario.
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 01:27:24 GMT
X-Gated-By: Usenet <==> RoseMail Gateway (v1.70)


Date Entered: 11-18-92 20:23

The local Black and Decker factory outlet has Record 36" and 48" wood
lathes on sale for what looks like a pretty good price.  Since a lathe
is on my list of tools to get I would like to hear from anyone out there
who has either of the Record lathes.  I'm especially interested in how
they compare with the Grizzly lathes.

Thanks in advance!

        Paul Robinson at Rose.com
          My opinions mine alone.  My employer doesn't deserve them!

---
   RoseReader 1.70 P001090:
   RM 2.00 : RoseNet<=>Usenet Gateway : Rose Media 416-733-2285
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bob@medrcw.b17b.ingr.com (Robert Whitehead)
Subject: New Yankee Workshop tapes
Keywords: trade  loan  sell
Reply-To: bob@medrcw.b17b.ingr.com
Organization: Vulcan Science Academy Foreign Student Union
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 14:28:28 GMT

I'm interested to know if anyone else out there likes to record Norm Abram's 
New Yankee Workshop and keep the tapes for future reference.

If so, would any of you be interested in trading or loaning tapes?  Especially if
you happen to have any of the tapes that actually come from NYW?  We could even
include woodworking-related tapes, or tapes on home improvement.

I usually record NYW on half-hour videotapes, so they're usually one show per
tape.

Interested parties please email; maybe we could set up a clearinghouse and trade
tapes regularly.
-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Robert C. Whitehead       |
| Intergraph Corporation    | The opinions expressed herein are not 
| Mapping Sciences Division | necessarily those of my employer, not 
| Technical Documentation   | necessarily mine, and probably not necessary.
| Mailpath: bob@medrcw.b17b |
| Phone: (205) 730-1923     |
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
From the Real World: bob@medrcw.b17b.ingr.com


"As a matter of cosmic history, it has always been easier to destroy than
to create."
    -- Spock, "The Wrath of Khan,"  Stardate 8130.3
From: dcoatney@hpcupt1.cup.hp.com (Doug Coatney)
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 01:45:39 GMT
Subject: Heat for workshop? What to use?
Organization: Hewlett Packard, Cupertino
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

Hello!

I live in the San Francisco Bay area and have a workshop out in my garage.
Unfortunately the garage is not heated and can get kind of cold in the
winter. (Ok, it's nothing like the midwest cold -- but it's cold to me
none the less..)

I was wondering what people use for space heaters in a "sawdust" environment
that works well..

Any insights would be great.. Thanks!

- Doug


=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=

         ___               Doug Coatney             /_  __
        /  /             dcoatney@cup.hp.com       / / /_/
HEWLETT/hp/PACKARD     Commercial Systems Lab          /
      /__/                Telnet: 447-1927
                        Mailstop: Bldg. 47UA

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mlord@bmers63.bnr.ca (Mark Lord)
Subject: Re: Magnetic Featherboard
Organization: BNR, Ottawa, Canada
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 92 16:56:42 GMT

In article <1992Nov19.194017.5985@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com> billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson) writes:
>to get in the way.
>
>Since I have a highly smooth and waxed table top, it is easy for me to
>let the board wander away from the fence. With a sharp blade, I do not
>even notice, until too late. The second featherboard - behind the blade
>on finish cuts - eliminates this problem.

This is where a splitter behind the blade can also come in handy.
Mine holds the work firmly against the fence without need for a second
featherboard.  And in cases where I do want the extra security of a second
featherboard regardless, the splitter fills the kerf and prevents the cutoff
strip from binding against the blade.  

Splitters can be very useful and enhance safety.  As for the stock
splitter/guard/grippers.. rubbish.  I got a splitter for the INCA 250 
(small 10" tablesaw) and bolted it onto my generic contractor's saw.
It doesn't go up/down with the blade, but is easy to install/remove
and works very well.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: wma@atlanta.dg.com (Wayne Akins)
Subject: Magnetic Featherboard
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 92 22:56:18 GMT
Organization: Data General Corp. ASSD, Atlanta, GA
Keywords: featherboard tablesaw

Does anyone have experience using a magnetic featherboard
on a table saw?  The ones I've seen advertised not only
hold the board against the fence but also have a *finger* 
to hold the board down flat to the table top.  Do they
work?



Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: carl@silver.lcs.mit.edu (Carl J.M. Alexander)
Subject: Looking for Futon Couch plans
Organization: Organization???
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 02:16:34 GMT

Someone else posted asking this same question about a month back, but the 
only replies I saw were on the subject of whether it was okay to undertake a 
woodworking project in order to save money.  (For the record, I want to 
do this both to save money *and* because I want it to be done right.)  Does 
anyone know of a source for plans for the typical futon couch frame.  I'm
interested in the kind where the futon is folded once along its long side,
to make a long couch, not the ones where it's folded twice the other way 
for a short couch.  This is often called a 'slider' frame.
 
Any help at all appreciated.
 
Carl Alexander 
carl@silver.lcs.mit.edu
alexander@pfc.mit.edu