HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: CMF0@bunny.gte.com (Cristina Ferla)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Painting Garage Floor
Date: 27 Aug 92 15:21:50 GMT
Organization: GTEL

In article <1992Aug25.174501.9993@ncrcae.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM> 
cooper@endeavor.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM (Bob Cooper x7429) writes:
> I just bought a 15 year old house with a 2 car garage.  I want to paint
> the floor with (I guess) an glossy epoxy paint.  Any suggestions or
> problems?  Any particular product that you are aware of?  I want the 
floor to look like what you see at sears autocenter -- slick as glass and 
you can wipe oil up with no problem

I would ask at the Sears autocenter what paint THEY use.  Sears used to
carry an excellent epoxy floor paint, but I was unable to get it this time
around (I have painted my garage floor twice in 14 years, this was going to
be the third time), so I had to special order some Benjamin Moore epoxy 
paint which the catalog specified was particularly prepared for garage floors.

BIG MISTAKE!!  It looked great when finished, but the car tires have been 
picking it up.  I am about to receive a free gallon from the manufacturer to repaint the floor, but there was never a problem like it with the Sears paint.

I like being able to sweep the floor and even wash the floor in the garage 
without major effort or dust from the concrete.

Good luck with your painting!
From: masticol@cadenza.rutgers.edu (Steve Masticola)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Beware when prewiring for telephone
Date: 27 Aug 92 14:08:03 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

tslee@oracle.uucp (Terry Lee) writes:

>I plan to
>run new wire, and save the old for two circuits of rs232.  Hopefully, that 
>wont crosstalk >8-(

Don't bet on it... RS-232 is a pulsed format. As such, it will likely
crosstalk worse than voice on the flat stranded wire.

If you're running the twisted pair for the phone anyway, run something
for the computers at the same time, preferably in the same cable
bundle. As a non-expert on networks, I'll leave the problem of which
format to use (Ethernet, et. al.) to the other netters.

Actually, RS-232 isn't intended for a multiple-port network; you'd
likely be better off ditching it and investigating real networking
hardware.  If you _must_ use RS-232, I'd recommend shielded twisted
pair, and you may have to be careful about terminating unused branches
of the line.

Save the flat stranded stuff for something like an intercom, where
crosstalk doesn't matter.

- Steve (masticol@cs.rutgers.edu).
From: sheriffp@Software.Mitel.COM (Peter Sheriff)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: new house thermostat needed
Date: 1 Sep 92 12:23:17 GMT
Organization: Mitel. Kanata (Ontario). Canada.


     I would think that you could get one at just about any hardware store.
I am looking right now at a catalog for one of our local hardware stores and
they have a baseboard heater thermostat (for on the heater) and one that
can be wall mounted both for $12.99. If I can get one, I am sure you can
get one even cheaper.

                                     Pete
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas Rand)
Subject: Re: It looks like carpenter ants...
Organization: Open Software Foundation
	<1992Aug26.165500.17454@primerd.prime.com>
Date: 26 Aug 92 18:38:33

In article <1992Aug26.165500.17454@primerd.prime.com> mguyott@eriador.prime.com (M. Guyott) writes:

   And a followup question:  Is diazanon the right chemical to use?  I saw
   a chemical called "burban" or "burzane" or something and the package said
   that it replaced the now baned "chlordane".  Is this better to use then
   diasanon?

I wouldn't use anything like that indoors.  Outdoors fine,  with all
the manufacturer's warnings.

Indoors I used something called "Revenge" which has pyrethrins and 
some other nasties in it,  but is specifically for indoor use.  I 
drilled holes in the wall near the nest and sprayed the sh*t out of
them.  It killed the nest fine.  The other nest I got rid of I had
direct access to as I was replacing a rotted window.  That was simple,
spray and kill,  then remove wet wood.

BTW.  If you kill the queen,  the nest is finished.  So don't worry
about the pest control people's scare tactics.  You only have to kill
one very important ant.

--
Douglas S. Rand <drand@osf.org>		OSF/Motif Dev.
Snail:         11 Cambridge Center,  Cambridge,  MA  02142
Disclaimer:    I don't know if OSF agrees with me... let's vote on it.
Amateur Radio: KC1KJ
From: sns@bondi.jpl.nasa.gov (Sam Southard)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Best Hardware Store
Date: 31 Aug 92 20:37:23 GMT
Organization: SAR Systems Development & Processing, JPL

In article <1992Aug31.194847.7417@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie) writes:
>almost always get what I want cheaper elsewhere). HD doesn't have sales
>(just ask them). They also don't deal with the paperwork required to give

This isn't so.  The one near me had a sale.  They called it something like
"Customer Appreciation Day" and it was a special opening from 6 or 8 pm to
midnight on a Friday night.  They gave a flat 10% off everything in the store.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: <none>
Keywords: PLUMBING: Fixing ABS leak...
From: gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston)
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 92 21:41:45 CDT
Organization: Garys' Home for Obsolete Computers

byron@homer.hsc.ucalgary.ca (Byron Draudson) writes:

> Hi.  My father-in-law, a do-it-yourself-er, installed some ABS pipe
> in my basement from my washing machine to the main pipe to the sewer
> system.  It's all done correctly with a trap etc., but a couple of
> joints have developed small leaks.  What is the proper way to "break"
> the glued joint and rejoin it so that it will not leak?

Take a hacksaw, cut out the leaking joint, and replace it with a new
section of pipe and two couplings. Be *liberal* with the cement, to 
the point of spreading it around the outside of the ends of the 
couplings.

Gary Heston, at home....
gary@cdthq.uucp
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house

In misc.consumers.house, chris@endgame.gsfc.nasa.gov (Chris Shenton) writes:

>I've got an old hot-water (not steam) radiator system and am about to
>burn or sandblast off the old layers of paint. (Most are too big and
>heavy to consider lugging down the stairs).
>
>Any suggestions on painting, non-painting, etc? Undoubtedly, paint
>retards the radiation of heat, but I'm not sure I want the industrial
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
No!  Just the opposite.  Clean, bare metal is a very poor radiator of heat.
Any type of organic coating (plastic, rubber, tar, oil, etc) will radiate
much better.  Paints use organic binders, and so are good at radiating.
Just make sure you don't have too many layers of paint, since it does act
as an insulator as well.  Certainly, one coat will improve the radiation
so much that the insulation factor is negligable.

>look up a naked radiator. . .


Donald Borowski    WA6OMI    Hewlett-Packard, Spokane Division
"Angels are able to fly because they take themselves so lightly."
                                       -G.K. Chesterton
From: smb@ulysses.att.com (Steven Bellovin)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Romex & Thinwall Question
Date: 3 Sep 92 16:51:25 GMT

In article <1992Sep3.014749.3912@adobe.com>, vonzelow@adobe.com (Jon von Zelowitz) writes:
> I am wiring a new outlet in my laundry room. The wire will come up from the
> crawlspace, through a hole I will drill in the sole plate (that's the 2x4 at
> the base of the wall), to the outlet. Since the walls are unfinished (no
> sheetrock, studs showing), I know that Code says I need to protect the wire
> in the laundry room with (for example) thinwall conduit.
> 
> The wiring in the crawlspace is all Romex. As far as I understand, you don't
> run Romex through TWC, you run wires. So, my question is, can I strip off
> the outer sheathing from the Romex from the point where it enters the TWC? I
> can't find any mention of this in several wiring books. Thanks (Chris ;-) ).

The NEC permits running Romex through short lengths of conduit for
physical protection.  You don't need to strip off the sheathing.  You
do need to put some sort of protective bushing at the ends of the conduit,
so that it doesn't cut into the Romex.

One other point -- if this is a laundry room, it's likely to be wet; you
should probably use GFCI protection unless the outlet is for the permanent
use of a washer or dryer -- and maybe even then.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: dedek@meaddata.com (Mike Dedek)
Subject: Re: Spray Foam Follies
Organization: Mead Data Central, Dayton OH
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 13:38:51 GMT

In article <1965@wdi.COM>, pestes@wdi.COM (Laurin Pestes x82570) writes:
|> I tried some of the aerosol expanding foam insulation 
|> around a prehung door I installed recently. It filled 
|> up the gaps too well, oozing out of the gap, although
|> it was easily trimmed off later. The real greif came 
|> later when I tried to close the door again. The door 
|> wouldn't close, but ran into the jamb instead.
|>  
|> As it set, the foam expanded and forced the door jambs 
|> out about 3/8 inch, even though they were fastened with 
|> several large (#10, 3 inch long) screws on both sides. 
|>  
|> Luckily, a heavy hammer and several more screws pulled 
|> it back into usable alignment, and the only damage was 
|> covered over with another coat of paint. 
|>  
|> The moral of the story: Save the spray foam for places
|> where it's well isolated from anything with close
|> tolerances, unnecessary to clean up, and remember it
|> keeps on expanding for an hour or two until it sets up. 
|>  
|> Laurin (wondering how to insulate the next door) 

I just saw on This Old House they did this, and cautioned
strongly against overfilling.  They said "When it looks like
it's not enough, it's enough".  I guess you know that already
though, huh?

-Mike Dedek

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: doshay@ursa.arc.nasa.gov (David Doshay)
Subject: Re: suggested weapons (was: Killing burglars.)
Organization: NASA-Ames Biocomputation Center
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 23:33:26 GMT

 drevik@utkvx2.utk.edu (Drevik, Steve) writes:
> ... some deleted ...

>(4) You may note even have to fire it.  Flick on the lights, and when
>the perpetrator sees a big inch-across barrel pointing at him, he'll\
>likely soil himself.  A ruger .22 just doesn't have the same emotional
>impact.  Same goes for the sound of chambering the first round.  Shotguns
>make a nice, deep, metallic sound.

>Recommended load:  first round would a hand-packed salt round (I'm
>a liberal and my goal is to scare the guy off).  Second round is
>run-of-the-mill birdshot.  Last five rounds are 00 buckshot (BIG pellets
>and the guy won't get up).  Fire the first to scare.  If he comes at 
>you, fire the second to stun him, the last five to finish him off
>while he's stunned.  Drag perpetrator into house, if necessary.

This all sounds nice, and probably is, but liberal or not, the first rule
I learned about handeling guns is : 
NEVER POINT ANY GUN, LOADED OR NOT, AT ANYTHING YOU DO NOT INTEND TO KILL

As light as the conversation may get on this electronic format, do not forget
that we are talking about killing, and while deterent may be preferable, and it 
may be possible, when guns are involved things happen fast and the consequences
are not reversable. If you need to use a gun, perhaps you should not depend
upon the rationality of the person you are pointing it at. I would not. By 
pointing a gun at a person in your house you have raised the stakes considerably,
and the multi-level approach recommended above may be too similar to a bluff that
the intruder may decide to take. You must be mentally ready to see two dead halves
of what was just a moment before one whole person. You must be ready for that
BEFORE you pick up that gun and point it. I do, by the way, agree that a shotgun
is probably best for a task I wish nobody had to prepare for.

If deterent is what you want, get a big loud obediant dog.

David		doshay@soma.arc.nasa.gov

The thought police insist I tell you:
my thoughts, not NASA's
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: hale@btree.uucp (Bob Hale)
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 92 19:33:39 GMT
Organization: Brooktree Corporation
Subject: Re: suggested weapons (was: Killing burglars.)
Summary: 
Followup-To: talk.politics.guns
Distribution: world
Organization: Brooktree Corporation, San Diego
Keywords: 

In article <27AUG199213073583@utkvx2.utk.edu> drevik@utkvx2.utk.edu (Drevik, Steve) writes:
>
>My reccomendation for the truly inexperienced is a shotgun.  Why?
[ deletions ]
>(2) It takes NO training to hit someone in close quarters.  Just aim and
>shoot.  Also very nice when you can't see your target very well (in
>the dark.. if you're in the same neighborhood, you'll hit him).

This statement is completely and dangerously wrong.  A shotgun pattern
will be about 2 inches in diameter at typical confrontation ranges.
The shotgun must be aimed.

>Recommended load:  first round would a hand-packed salt round (I'm
>a liberal and my goal is to scare the guy off).  Second round is
>run-of-the-mill birdshot.  Last five rounds are 00 buckshot (BIG pellets
>and the guy won't get up).  Fire the first to scare.  If he comes at 
>you, fire the second to stun him, the last five to finish him off
>while he's stunned.  Drag perpetrator into house, if necessary.

A bad idea.  Use of a firearm with *any* load is use of deadly force.
If you didn't need to use deadly force then you should not be shooting
at all.  Altering the evidence after the fact by dragging the body
anywhere will get you into very deep trouble.

Note the followups line.  This subject has been extensively discussed
before, both on that forum and on rec.guns.

Bob Hale                                      ...!ucsd!btree!hale
...!btree!hale@ucsd.edu                       ...!ucsd!btree!hale@uunet.uu.net


Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: pzs3761@summa.tamu.edu (SIERANT, PETER ZIEMOWIT)
Subject: Kitchen counters, Roof repairs, Carpets
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Keywords: new house jitters
Organization: Texas A&M University, Academic Computing Services
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 04:03:00 GMT

    Now here's a newgroup I can use. As of today, it appears that I am
the owner of my first house. Am I supposed to feel this nervous? I'm not
going to turn into a Republican, am I? ;-)  I have 3 questions:

1) The house has kitchen counters and cabinets of a dark cherry persuasion.
   The net effect is almost depressing, it's so dark. I'm thinking of
   replacing the countertops with a brighter fake wood. How plausible
   is tearing up and replacing the formica, as opposed to replacing the
   whole countertop. (24 ft., U-shape, 1 sink hole, curved up to meet wall)

2) This is Texas, and shingles don't last very long in direct sunlight.
   The roof has a patch about 10 ft per side where the bottoms of the
   shingles are curled. I'm considering an overlay instead of a completely
   new roof for the obvious financial reasons. The overlay has a 12 year
   pro-rated warranty. Comments?

3) I'm getting a $2000 carpet allowance from the seller. The house is 
   1500-1600 ft^2, but has a big non-carpet kitchen-dining area. I know 
   nothing about rugs. Where buy-how much $-type-brand-value-install-etc?

Long rambling dissertations on any of the above topics will be greatly
appreciated. 
 Thanks,
     Pete Sierant    -=[ pzs3761@zeus.tamu.edu ]=-       Homeowner
* Disclaimer: Neither you, I, nor this posting exist. We are the end result
*             of a late night pizza locked in glorious battle with Bill Gate's
*             neural and digestive systems. Please act accordingly.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: matthew@alchemy.tn.cornell.edu (Matthew Kleinmann)
Subject: Re: Killing burglars.
Organization: Alchemy International
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 20:56:32 GMT

> What about if you used something like those aerosol wasp killers that are
> supposed to spray 30 feet?  But then I would think you are better off using
> something like mace or tear gas.  What's the range on mace or tear gas?  Are
> these disabling?  I've heard that mace and/or tear gas cause the person to
> experience considerable discomfort but do not disable the person to the
> point where they could not shot you dead.

I think the problem with anythign along those lines is you will just damage the person and he/she would turn around and sue you for damaging him/her.  If you kill the sucker, and someone actuley cares, about the worst they could get you for is the cost of digging the hole to plant him in.


-- 
                       Alchemy International, Ithaca NY
                        matthew@alchemy.tn.cornell.edu
                         matthew@alchemy.ithaca.ny.us
                              Public Access Unix
From: pstryjew@colsun.Central.Sun.COM (Pete Stryjewski)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Attic Insulation
Date: 26 Aug 92 14:22:37 GMT
Reply-To: pstryjew@colsun.Central.Sun.COM


I am purchasing a house that is about 70 years old.  The attic has loose insulation
blown if (grey woolly stuff, I dont remember what it is called).  The home
inspector that I hired said that I had about a R13 value, and that in this area
(Ohio) an R31 is recommended for the attic.

The attic has a walk-up entrance and I would like to put in some "flooring" and
use that attic for storage.  My problem is that I would also like to add some
fiberglass insulation to increase the R-value of the attic.  Currently the loose
isulation is a the tops of the joists in the attic, so if I lay the fiberglass
over it, I will not be able to put down the flooring.  Should I remove the loose
insulation and replace it with fiberglass or try something else ?


Pete
pstryjew@colsun.Central.Sun.COM
From: lfischer@aramis.rutgers.edu (Lfischer)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Basement Finishing - What to do????
Date: 4 Sep 92 14:13:49 GMT
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

I finished min over the last year and a half.  I am about done.  I
have a 1200 sq ft ranch with the same size basement.  It was bare
concrete floor and cinder block walls.  I did it all.  Made I made 7
rooms and two closets.  Hung the doors, did the wiring , rerouted the
plumbing, did the ceiling, framed the walls, hung the rock, taped and
painted.  Everything can have its own complications.  If you are
unfamiliar with this sort of work, it will take a while.  You will
make mistakes and redo some and leave some.  Taping is probably hte
trickiest part.  If you dont spackle/sand very well, iut will be
obvious.  If you dont like wiring into breaker panels, it can be
scary..  You want to do it by xmas.  I would hire out most of it
unless you have a lot of time.  I worked on mine most weekends and
during the week when I was motivated.  Xmas is soon.  If you arent
experienced, and you have a lot to do by then, hire someone.  Dont
botch it.

Larry Fischer
From: jeffj@falcon.mpd.tandem.com (Jeff Jones)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Treat foundation for termites?
Date: 30 Aug 92 20:21:02 GMT
Organization: Tandem Computers Incorporated

I need to decide whether or not I want to have the foundation treated for
termites on a house that is about to start construction.  This will be
a post-tension conctete slab foundation.  The treatment is some sort of spray
that applied to the slab during installation.  Does anyone know if this is
worth while?  The cost is about 20 cents per sq. ft. of treated slab and would
run about $600 for me.  Will this save me termite invasion and exterminations
in the future?  The builder didn't have any strong feelings either way, and
of course the treatment is no guarantee, so periodic inspections are still
necessary.

Does anyone know more details about this process?  Is this something that only
works if applied before the concrete is set, or is it just done at slab
installation time for convenience (i.e. the slab is sitting there with nothing
on it, therefore spray is applied to the entire area quite easily)?

Thanks for any info. 

--
Jeffry L. Jones				Tandem Computers Incorporated
jeffj@mpd.tandem.com			14231 Tandem Boulevard
(512) 244-8914				Austin, TX  78728-6699
From: oman@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com (Diane at Allen-Bradley in Cleveland)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: RE: Carpenter Ants
Date: 25 Aug 92 12:53:11 EST

In article <1992Aug25.124922.8784@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com>, 
oman@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com (Diane at Allen-Bradley in Cleveland) writes:

A long winded response to questions about carpenter ants....

PS: If anyone out there saw my post - please let me know!  I don't know
if my stuff is getting out there or not...  no-one ever seems to reply!
From: kosowsky@zener.harvard.edu (Jeffrey J. Kosowsky)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: questions about MOLDINGS?
Date: 28 Aug 92 16:09:48 GMT
Organization: Harvard Robotics Lab, Harvard University

I want to add a cove molding to cover the joint between walls and
ceiling and I wanted to ask a couple of questions to the DIY experts
in this group.

	1] Is a construction adhesive, such as Liquid Nails, strong
	enough to hold up the molding (it's about 1 3/4 inch width pine)
	or would you recommend using finish nails? If nails are
	recommended, what size would you use?

     2] The ceiling is a textured ceiling. How do you make the
     moulding fit flush with the textured ceiling? Would it be enough
     to just fill any spaces with caulk?
	
	3] The walls are (old) plaster covering wood lathe and hence are
	not perfectly straight. Again would you use caulk to fill any
	irregularities due to bowing of the wall or would you do
	something else?

	4] What is the best way to fit the molding in the inside corner.
	Would you recommend mitering or is it better to make a butt joint
	using a coping saw to match the contours?

	5] I would appreciate any tips on how to get good and accurate
	measurements so that all the corners fit snugly. I am especially
	concerned about getting the mitered outside corners to fit tight.


Thank you all very much for your assistance.

Jeff Kosowsky
From: soberg@think.com (Stephanie Oberg)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Little brown bugs
Date: 3 Sep 1992 19:13:42 GMT
Organization: Thinking Machines Corporation, Cambridge MA, USA
NNTP-Posting-Host: quicksilver.think.com

In article <1992Sep3.073613.1%rtsmv1.decnet@edwards-vax.af.mil> joffe%rtsmv1.decnet@edwards-vax.af.mil writes:
>
>	We are having a problem with little brown bugs that invade rice,
>flower, cereal, and any kind of grain products.  Does anyone have experience
>with these?

     Sadly, yes.

>	Is there an organic method of getting rid of these?  

     Yes.  Throw away all rice, flour, cereal, and any other non tightly
     sealed staple in the affected cupboard (kitchen for the paranoid).  
     Unopened cardboard and plastic containers get tossed.  Scrub cabinets 
     with Pine-Sol or equivalent.  Pine-Sol is not a pesticide, of course, but
     your goal here is to throughly clean the cupboards, and remove any
     pests, eggs, spilled food, and grease.  Scrub and inspect every
     surface and especially nook and crannies.
  
     Do not shop at little Asian grocery stores.  Most bug infestations
     come from foods bought there.  If you must shop at Asian food stores,
     buy only canned or bottled goods and wash the outside of the container
     (remove loose paper labels) immediately upon bringing it home.

     Find tightly sealable glass, metal, or ceramic canisters for all your 
     staple foods and transfer all staples into them immediately upon
     bringing the foods home.  That way, one contaminated item cannot
     spread bugs throughout the cabinet.

     Didn't your mom teach you this?
  
>If not, what would be the best kind of pesticide to use?
 
     Bite your tongue.  Pesticides should never be used around food.  The only
     exception would be if a thorough purge and scrubdown of the kitchen
     reveals that you have bugs living in the walls.  Then remove all 
     food and dishes from your entire kitchen and either use Raid household
     pesticides (read the labels) or call in an extreminator.

     Stephanie

-- 

sojourner