HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: met@naucse.cse.nau.edu (Millam Tackitt)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Carbon Buildup in engines ( valves ? ).....
Date: 23 Jul 92 18:23:50 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Northern Arizona University, Flagstaff AZ

there are two methods to remove carbon build-up from your engine.
Both are performed with the engine warmed up and at a fast idle ~1600rpm
1) messy and environmentally compromising.
   SLOWLY pour a quart of cheap automatic transmission fluid down into
your engine via the carburator.

2) clean and safe.
   SLOWLY pour water(cold) the same way.

After you do this make a long ride in the country a part of your monthly
driving.
***************************************************************
Millam E. Tackitt            met@naucse.cse.nau.edu

1967 Cougar XR-7 271/289 4spd/CR 4spd
1968 Cyclone GT *385*/427 3 deuces and a 4spd with a 9"locker
1953 3/4 ton Chevy pickumup truck

Not running... yet:
1968 Galaxie XL-GT 345/390 Auto (now deemed repairable)
1949 1/2 ton Chevy pickumup truck $350.00
1965 "A" code Mustang
***************************************************************
From: golder@homer.kodak.com (Patrick Golder)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Redline MTL
Date: 28 Jul 92 17:47:19 GMT
Reply-To: ricks@berkeley.edu
Organization: UC Berkeley IC CAD Group

In article <1992Jul25.145732.7515@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>, mhoza@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Michael J Hoza) writes:
|> I am thinking about putting Redline MTL (manual transmission lubricant) in the 
|> gearbox of my 1985 Toyota MR2.  In general I have heard very good things about
|> this gearlube, especially in providing smoother shifts, but I do have a few 
|> questions. 

I had heard the same good things about MTL, so last fall I decided to
try it in my Turbo Thunderbird, which has very notchy shifting.  It did
seem to make shifting slightly easier (at best) in this car, though not
really enough to be worth the trouble.  But as winter started, and the
temperatures dropped, the gears would grind as I shifted until the car
was warmed up.  Once the car was up to temperature, the transmission was
fine.  I guess at low temperatures, the MTL lubricated the syncros too
well.  I ended up putting the factory specified fluid back in (ATF of
all things) and the problem went away.  So depending on your car, there
may be a downside.  Good luck.

From: jeff@hpfcmgw.FC.HP.COM (Jeff Taylor)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 19:26:07 GMT
Subject: Re: VAPOR LOCK!!!
Organization: HP Fort Collins, CO
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech


> ... add an electric fuel pump back by the gas tank ...

Make sure that you are willing to put up with the noise.  I solved the same
problem on my Blazer by re-routing the fuel lines and adding an electric
fuel pump.  The pump is louder than I expected.  The mechanic recommended my
pump as being less noisy than average.

Jeff Taylor
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen)
Subject: Re: car fails to crank in cold/rainy days
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 92 20:04:46 GMT

did you check the sparkplug wires?  if the insulation is cracked
the moisture may be messing things up.
From: george@mech.seas.upenn.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: What does GT mean in all these sports models ?
Date: 31 Jul 92 20:15:45 GMT
Organization: University of Pennsylvania, Mechanical Engineering

:
:GTO:  Gran Turismo Omologato (sp?) which is a homologated version
:of the GT intended for some types of road races.  There aren't many
:of these races so the designation is mostly historical at this
:point.
:

isn't GTO a current IMSA racing class as well?  I recall seing 
multi class races with the companinon classes GTO/GTU sharing the road
course.  The two essentially differed in engine size ( "O" being the larger ).
These i think are 'stock looking' classes, though i suspect not Omologato..




--
-george            george@mech.seas.upenn.edu  
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: Todd O'Connor <todd_oconnor@taligent.com>
Subject: Re: Amsoil
X-Date: Thu, 30 Jul 92 16:05:21 GMT
Organization: Taligent, Inc.
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d3
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 23:04:46 GMT


Amsoil is 100% synthetic.  It is generally composed of uniformly shaped molecules
that are more resistant to the stress of heat.  They have very low pour points,
temperature at which an oil has solidified to where there are virtually no flow
capabilities, and have other excellent properties such as heat dispersal,
foam-resistance, and wear protection.  Conventional multi-viscosity oils lose their
viscosity as their viscosity index improvers (VI's) break down in the presence of
heat, rpm's, and oxidation. A major problem with VI improvers is that as they break
down, they chemically react with each other to form heavy deposits of sludge and
varnish.  Amsoil 10W-30, for example, uses no VI improvers so it maintains
viscosity and its lubricating abilities and will not form deposits.

Motor oils can be made up from the following plus additives:
    1) Petroleum
    2) one or several synthetic chemicals
    3) a combination of synthetics and petroleum (one term used is para-synthetics)

Mobil 1 falls into category 3.  It is 100% synthetic EXCLUSIVE of the addtitive
package carrier oil.

Synthetic oils are best known for their extended drain intervals (ie. 25,000 miles
without an oil change).  This does not mean, though, that the filter can go that
long.  With the proper maintenance, oil analysis program, oil filter changes, use
of a by-pass filter, you can see very long extended drains.  Without the proper
care you might just as well change your oil very frequently.  Unlike other
synthetic manufacturers Amsoil has a full product line including filtration
products designed for synthetic use, synthetic greases, synthetic gear lubes, air
filters, synthetic 2-cycle oils, and diesel fuel modifiers to just name a few.

Amsoil is sold through independent dealers.  Call Amsoil directly at 800-777-8491
and they can help you out.  If there are no dealers in your area e-mail me and I
can send you some product info, etc...  I am a dealer in the San Jose area.


Todd
From: yuechu@bank.ecn.purdue.edu (Yuechu Ma)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: ANNOYING HONDA
Date: 26 Jul 92 17:59:14 GMT
Article-I.D.: noose.1992Jul26.175914.401
Distribution: usa
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network


 I have a 82 Honda Civic 120 K miles. The car run well except at starting.  It stalled right after staritng sometimes and died on the acceleration. It seems not a problem of fuel since I have cheched cab and cleaned EGR which is cloggedlast night. Is there any HONDA owers who has the same experinece. I need your advice. I guess one of thermal sensors is bad, since the car run fine once it is heated up.
thanks in advance.
From: tom_santos@taligent.com (Tom Santos)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Synthetic Oil
Date: 24 Jul 92 17:27:50 GMT
Organization: Taligent

Has anyone messed around with synthetic oils like AMSOil or Redline?  I have
heard that they are superior to petroleum-based oils in many ways.  AMSOil has a
line of "superior" filtration products too.


--
Tom Santos                                 (tom_santos@taligent.com)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: tgl@slee01.srl.ford.com (Tom Leone)
Subject: Re: Increasing power?
Organization: Ford Motor Company Scientific Research Labs, Dearborn, MI
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 18:37:12 GMT

On a related note...

What's the net.wisdom on manual transmissions instead of
automatics?  I know that torque converters are very inefficient,
wasting perhaps 10-15% of engine power.  However, they are a good,
repeatable way to get the engine up to high RPM.

Any actual on-the-strip experience out there?

Tom Leone <tgl@slee01.srl.ford.com>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: gryder@caddy.Data-IO.COM (Gerald Ryder)
Subject: Help with CV joint replacement
Keywords: SUBARU
Organization: Data I/O Corporation
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 22:13:57 GMT

I am about to undertake a CV joint replacement on my 1984 SUBARU GL wagon. I have
never done this before. Anything to look out for? Any tips? Any special tools
needed?

Thanks in advance.




--

					gerald

					gryder@data-io.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: eap@leland.Stanford.EDU (Eric Perozziello)
Subject: Re: checking spark
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 92 01:18:57 GMT

>: What is the best way (safest as well) to check for spark if one does
>: not have a timing light?  I just want to verify I have spark coming
>: from my distributor.  
>: 
>IMHO, the best way to check would be to get another spark plug (old one is OK),
>connect the wire to it, then touch the ground of the plug to the block & have
>an assistant crank the engine.  It is important that there ALWAYS be a plug
>on the wire for the spark to go to, otherwise extremely high voltages will
>be generated & possibly damage ignition system components.

If you "short" the plug wire , the voltage will stay low (never has a chance
to build before discharging). The CURRENT will be very high, and possibly
damage ign system components, as you mention.


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: eap@leland.Stanford.EDU (Eric Perozziello)
Subject: Re: Oil Drain Plug Is Stuck
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 92 18:28:55 GMT

> Some years ago I bought a set of Snap-On "Flank Drive" sockets.  They
>were advertised to grip the flats instead of the points, and be able to
>turn partially stripped bolts or nuts.  By buying the black thickwall
>impact style sockets, I got away with paying merely two or three times a
>realistic price for them.
>
> They work as advertised.  I've often been able to remove bolts which
>just let a regular six point socket pop around.

I agree with the snap-on recommendation- that's what I use! I remember a 
customer coming in with a water pump that he tried to take off with
his craftsman.  it rounded (the bolts I mean). My snap-on whipped off
the rounded bolts!

>
> BTW, there's seldom any reason to buy 12-point sockets.  12-point
>fasteners are quite rare.  6-point sockets don't tend to strip fasteners
>as bad as 12s, particularly oddball "offsize" fasteners.  You know -
>those el cheapo bolts that are somewhere between 1/2 and 9/16, yet
>aren't metric?  Some GM divisions loved them.
>                                                                 

Actually, 12 pt have another reason too.  They allow you to get into
tighter places because the wrench fits at more angles (this argument 
is more specific to wrenches than sockets).

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: shaver@convex.com (Dave Shaver)
Subject: Strange Taurus problem.
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1992 20:17:46 GMT
Organization: CONVEX Computer Corp, MPP System Software, Richardson, TX
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by a user at CONVEX Computer
              Corp. The opinions expressed are those of the user and
              not necessarily those of CONVEX.

I have a 1987 Ford Taurus with 106K miles on it.  In the last few
months I've been having an annoying problem with it.  The first symptom
was the starter engaging and turning over the engine, but the engine
not starting.  It only does this about once or twice every two weeks.
If I leave it alone for 30 minutes or so, it starts right up.  My first
guess was that it must be a problem with either too much pressure in
the gas tank or a malfunctioning in-tank electric fuel pump.  But since
there is never any excess pressure in the tank when this happens and I
can hear the fuel pump engage when I first turn the key, I don't think
either of these are the cause.  I eventually figured out that I did not
need to wait the 30 minutes at all.  If I pump the gas a few times, it
starts right up.

I figured I must have dirty injectors, so I used an in-tank cleaner.
This didn't help much.  Today, I drove the car to work in the morning
and it would not start at all around lunch time.  Even after pumping
the gas (no luck) then waiting for 30 minutes (still no luck), it would
not start.  I checked the wiring from the coil to the distributor cap
and also the injector wiring.  It all looked fine.  (Plug wires, plugs
cap, and rotor are about six months old.  Coil is original.)

My Haynes manual suggests checking the fuel injection system and the
coil.  Can a coil go bad like this?  Or do they fail in a binary way?
I've have about 50K miles on my fuel filter (bad boy), so I'll probably
start with that.  What are the symptoms of vapor lock?  This could be a
heat-related problem, since it has only happened at mid-day so far.

I'm looking for any ideas.  Thanks for your help.

/\  Dave Shaver
\\  CONVEX Computer Corporation, Richardson, TX
\/  Internet: shaver@convex.com    UUCP:  uunet!convex!shaver
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: neil@indetech.com (Neil Wilson)
Subject: Cracks in vinyl dash
Organization: Independence Technologies, Inc. Fremont, CA
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 21:56:11 GMT




	I have an older mercedes that is developing a crack in it's
	vinyl dash. It's quite small at present and I would like to
	keep it that way. Any suggestions on how to curtail it's
	progress would be greatly appreciated.

 
	Thanks for your time. 
	I will post a summary of replies.


	Neil


____*_  Neil J. Wilson              {uunet,sun,sharkey,pacbell}!indetech.com!neil
\  / /  Independence Technologies
 \/ /   42705 Lawrence Place        FAX: 415 438-2034
  \/    Fremont, CA 94538           
-- 
____*_  Neil J. Wilson              {uunet,sun,sharkey,pacbell}!indetech!neil
\  / /  Independence Technologies
 \/ /   42705 Lawrence Place        FAX: 415 438-2034
  \/    Fremont, CA 94538           Voice: 415 438-2017
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Horsepower is a meaningless advertising term.
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 25 Jul 92 20:35:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * Jacksonville AR USA * 501-985-0059


-> I worry about its air-line analog knocking the daylights out of a
-> large- volume piping system.  No flames intended, and I freely admit
-> ignorance, but if I were gonna do it, I'd ask a mechanical engineer
-> first.

 No flames intended, but how's a mechanical engineer going to know
either?  He's going to find you're pumping 180psi in tubing rated for
400psi, figure you have more than double the capacity for the
application, and send you a bill.

 Frankly, I'd be more interested in calling the local building authority
and making sure the stuff meets the local building code (if any).
                                                                                                                
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: R1004@vmcms.csuohio.edu
Subject: Re: resetting 'emissions' warning on Chevette?
Organization: CSU
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 13:52:05 GMT

In article <1992Jul27.210331.388@samba.oit.unc.edu>
bjy@med.unc.edu (Brian J. Young) writes:
 
>
>Anyone know how to reset the emissions warning on a 1982 Chevette?  It is
>a 'flag' on which is written "emissions" and partially obscures the odometer.
>Many thanks in advance.
>
>-Brian
>
     If I remember this rightly (check the owners manual)  When the
flag comes down it is time to get the element in the converter changed.
If this is the first time the flag has come down I think it is (was)
a free service (under the emissions warrenty)
 
  In any event to get the flag back up (which is part of the
service above) means taking the gauge cluster out of the IP
and pulling the spedo to get a tool into the housing to push
the flag into place.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Martel               |
bob2@cua3.csuohio.edu    |  Lady luck must have been a wonderful girl
ab556@cwns2.ins.cwru.edu |    -She's never been a friend of mine!
                         |                        Alan Parsons Project
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hirani@leland.Stanford.EDU (Anil Hirani)
Subject: interior lights problem after wheel change
Summary: refuse to go off after the wheel change
Keywords: interior door (courtesy) light, jack
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Distribution: ca
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 92 00:21:57 GMT


Strange thing. I raised my car on a jack to change the tires. After
removing the jack, the interior door lights (courtesy lights) refuse to go
off.

There are plunger type switches near the bottom portion of the car body where
a closed door keeps the switches plunged and lights off.

Now even if the doors are closed the lights refuse to go off. Pressing the
plunger switches by hand seems to dim the lights (just barely) but they
still stay on.

Could raising teh car to change the wheels have caused this problem ?

It is a Nissan Stanza 82, hatchback.

Please e-mail suggestions etc.

Anil



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty)
Subject: Re: head gasket on a taurus
Organization: New York State Institute for Sebastian Cabot Studies
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 16:32:00 GMT

In article <31160117@hpspkla.spk.hp.com> borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski) writes:
>My Robert Bentley (VW) manual is explict about this, saying that the head
>bolts need to be broken loose with about 1/8 turn backwards, before
>retorqueing them.

interesting.  this used to be the recommended procedure for retorquing
head bolts on V-6 Alfas; they sent out a notice about 3 years ago
indicating that this should no longer be done.  since then, there have
been a lot fewer head gasket failures on V-6 Alfas.

of course, different manufacturers specify different procedures for
reasons; do what the shop manual tells you unless you can find an update
that tells you differently.

richard
-- 
richard welty                            518-393-7228
welty@cabot.balltown.cma.com
  ``if you can read this, mario, you're too close''
    -- bumper sticker seen on a CART safety truck
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: br@cs.cmu.edu (Bill Ross)
Subject: Redline MTL
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 92 19:49:07 GMT
Organization: CMU Vision and Autonomous Systems Center
Reply-To: br@cs.cmu.edu


  Does someone have Redline's phone number handy?

  Thanks!
   Bill Ross
   br@cs.cmu.edu
From: gt0963d@prism.gatech.EDU (Deeptendu Majumder)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: car fails to crank in cold/rainy days
Date: 23 Jul 92 17:04:13 GMT
Organization: The Dream Chasers Syndicate

It happened to me once before and it happened today.
Last time my car was covered with snow. But this morning
it was probably related to last night's major downpour.

OK I get into the car and turn the key, check engine,
oil pressure lights come on, but I hear no sound. May
be a faint buzzing. I am not sure if that can be described
as the starter solenoid clicking. But anyway I get
out open the hood bang it down and after a few turns the
engine cranks up and everything is fine.

Could it be a starter problem ? Can I relate a starter
problem to rain/snow ? Last time also little tapping
or banging the hood helped to start the engine. It was
almost 7-8 months ago. Is it a loose connection that
gets worse in cold or rainy situations. But it does
not happen on a regular basis even when it rains heavy!

As I said, today was only the second time it happened
since I had the car for over a year now.

any help ?

thanks
d.
-- 
------
"Like a harsh neon streaking  through the velvet darkness 
the whetted knife of Life tore its path through her Dreams"
From: Steve.Kaess@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Steve Kaess)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Help to buy a 1985 olds 98 sedan
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 02:23:40 -0500

 > Hi, everybody
 > Last weekend, I found a 1985 Olds 98 with 110k on it.
 > The owner asked
 > $3500 for it. Cause I am not familar with the products
I think that they are tring to take advantage of you.  I do not thnk 
any 85 olds with 110,000 miles is worth 3500...offer 1000-1200 and 
go from there...in my opinion the olds is a good car but:
1>bad fuel milage
2>lot of fancy toys like power windows and seats and locks to break
3>was not sorted out yet that year--not the high point of gm engineering 
just then.
I would suggest a chevy cavilier of about 87 or 89 vintqage for that 
money, the ford tempo is also about the same price...in furrin cars 
the mazda 323 and the dodge/plymouth colt are also good values, but 
if you want a big car then a mid 80's caprice would be a better deal 
I think then the olds---110,000 miles...they are trying to take 
ya!!...if you go to most public librarys they have the 'blue book' 
of used car prices--from a private person you should pay somewhere 
around 1/2 way between wholesale and retail...



From: genet@hplsla.hp.com (Gene Taylor)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 21:00:58 GMT
Subject: Re: Compressors & Air Tools
Organization: HP Lake Stevens, WA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

>Why don't you just leave it full? My tank is always at pressure, I have a
>ball valve on the output side of the tank to shut off the plumbing, but I
>never turn off the compressor or empty the tank (other than to drain the
>water from time to time). Who wants to wait for the tank to fill everytime?
>What a waste of energy...


Because water condenses inside, rusts through, and KBLOOIE!!! it blows up!
This happened to my father-in-law with a 25-gal unit.  He heard it let go
in the shop from inside the house 100 yards away.  He's REAL lucky he
wasn't in the shop when it happened.  How lucky are you feeling?

Who wants to wait for the aid car while you bleed to death?
What a waste of perfectly good body parts...
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: finnegan@invader.navo.navy.mil (Kenneth Finnegan)
Subject: MPG on 4WD's
Reply-To: finnegan@navo.navy.mil
Organization: Grumman Data Systems	
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 13:17:03 GMT
Nntp-Posting-Host-[nntpd-4451]: invader.navo.navy.mil

I recently purchased a 1990 Isuzu Trooper, and have been going
through the typical maintenance/check items.  I have calculated
my average mileage (50/50 hwy/city) as around 17mpg.  This
vehicle has the 2.6l 4cyl, NOT the 2.8l V6.  This is pretty
much the mileage I expected, but I would be interested to hear
what other 4WD owners are getting mileage-wise from their 
vehicles.

I read the little C&D summary that appears occasionally in the
back of the mag, and it looks as if 4WD mileage varies from
11mpg (Toyota Landcruiser) to about 23mpg (Suzuki Sidekick).

Anyone have any info they would like to share?

Thanks!

Kenneth
finnegan@navo.navy.mil