HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: arora@arora.mentorg.com (Arora Amitabh @ PCB x3080)
Subject: WANTED: Canon EOS equipment
Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1993 17:02:31 GMT
Organization: Mentor Graphics Inc.
Keywords: wanted canon eos
Followup-To: 

I am looking for used Canon equipment.  If you are interested in
selling then please reply via email or give me a call at:

        408-451-5586 ( Work )   9AM-630PM
        408-452-0944 ( Home )

In particular I am looking for:

CAMERAS  - 630 / 10s / Elan
LENSES   - 50mm/1.8,  35-135USM, 35-105OldStyle
FLASHES  - 200E, 300EZ, 430EZ

Thanks,

-Amitabh Arora
From: dnewcomb@whale.st.usm.edu (Donald R. Newcomb)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Flimsy tripod suggestion
Date: 11 Jan 93 04:17:20 GMT
Organization: University of Southern Mississippi

In article <1993Jan11.023151.17017@cello.hpl.hp.com> jacobson@cello.hpl.hp.com (David Jacobson) writes:
>My question is "Why does this work"?  It seems that if I stress the
>tripod, that will flex its mechanical members to new equilibrium
>positions, but not change their Young's modulus, etc.  For degrees of
>freedom in which vibration would lift and lower the weight, the added
>weight might lower the resonant frequency.  The two obvious motions

David,
  I think you are thinking  about this too hard. Consider two  things:
1. Where do the forces that cause the vibrations originate? Wind and
   very light touches, I would say. The added weight increases the
   force required to upset the stability of the tripod.
2. Flimsy tripods have loose joints. More wieght will put pressure on
   the joints to prevent rattling.
Just my opinion.
-- 
Donald R. Newcomb                * Oh please, Mr. Clinton, won't
dnewcomb@whale.st.usm.edu        * you please just tax that other
newcomb@usmcp6.bitnet            * guy and send his money to me?
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: umeca80@ps.ic.ac.uk (Bruce Taylor)
Subject: Re: Bargains in Moscow?
Organization: Imperial College Computer Centre
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 93 10:14:21 GMT

In <122380050@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM> mic@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Marc Clarke) writes 

>The Kiev line of cameras are a vastly inferior knockoff of the famed
>Hasselblad cameras and Zeiss lenses.  They are amusing paper weights,
>not cameras.

>Further, good luck getting one repaired when it breaks, which it will do on
>about the second roll of film.

>The Zenit line of 35mm and view cameras and optics are also inferior
>to just about anything except a pinhole camera.  Good luck getting one
>repaired when it breaks, which it will do on about the second roll of
>film.

>A Kiev or a Zenit is a conversation piece -- not a camera.

I know we don't flame in this group but *what*?

Russian cameras may not be the world's finest but they aren't that bad. I
have had 2 Zenits two in my time, the first lasted me some 12 years and
slightly more than 2 films. This did fail due to a problem with the mirror
jamming solid, but then it had just been dropped over a hundred feet from a
crag while I was climbing. The second lasted me 3 years before being passed
over to my nephew (who still uses the thing).  Feel the weight of these
things, they are built from recycled T34 tanks (in fact they can be
converted back by just adding a new turret :-). They are far more robust
than Japanese polycarbonate bodied machines. OK so the quality isn't that
great but the lenses are better than almost all P&S/compact cameras.  They
make great spare cameras for taking somewhere that I wouldn't take my
Nikons - like rock climbing.

Right - i'll just go and take the tablets and lie down in a darkened 
(and padded) room now :-)

===============================================================================
Bruce Taylor                                    Process Systems Engineering
umeca80@ps.ic.ac.uk                             Imperial College, London
===============================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Photo CD
From: Spartacus/CUNY LC NY <LENBC@CUNYVM.BITNET>
Date: Monday, 11 Jan 1993 14:10:41 EST
Organization: City University of New York/ University Computer Center

I just want to say lets kill this BETA vs VHS thread.
And I wish everyone in this thread stop crossposting.
Anytime someone quotes me on the beta discussion, I've
noticed they have included rec.arts and rec.photo
in the newsgroup line.  If you want to continue this
thread then delete rec.photo and rec.arts from the
newsgroup line and change the subject line too!
This is a photography group so lets stop it now.

I wouldn't be surprised if this thread is already
on many kill files already.

-------
------------------------------+             All The Best,
Reply To:                     |
     LenBC@CunyVM.Cuny.Edu    |             Edward Galarza
     LenBC@CunyVM.BitNet      |             Brooklyn College Of The
     IRC: Spartacus           |             City University Of New York
------------------------------+             "Que viva el OS/2! v2.1"
From: nair@huron.egr.msu.edu (Sashi Nair)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Information about the Tamron 180/2.5 LD IF Lens
Date: 6 Jan 1993 17:25:27 GMT
Organization: College of Engineering, Michigan State University
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: huron.egr.msu.edu

Dear Netters:

I am thinking of getting the Tamron 180mm/2.5 LD IF lens for
my Nikon F3. It is a manual lens which comes in the adaptall-2
mount. Has anybody on the net used this lens and knows about its
sharpness as compared to the Nikon 180/2.8 ED. Some months ago
Outdoor Photography had a column on this lens and they said it was
very sharp and had good contrast. The price of the lens $599 is 
comparable to Nikon 180/2.8 ED ($629), but has the advantage of
its adaptall mount which can be used with other bodies. I look
forward to hearing your views abou this lens.

Thanks

Sashi Nair
nair@frith.egr.msu.edu 
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: ka1gt@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (robert.m.atkins)
Subject: Re: Bogen 3051 tripod: quick leg release?
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 18:18:42 GMT

In article <1993Jan12.020858.24390@walter.bellcore.com>, hsong@ardour.bellcore.com (G. Hugh Song) writes:
> In literature from Bogen, ".... all three legs can be released 
> simultaneously.  All it takes is a firm pressure on one of the two 
> separate sets of triggers.  These triggers will let you move from as low 
> as 15 3/4" to 63 1/4", almost as fast as you can lift your camera."
> I guess the Manfrotto literature contains the same information about
> the equivalent Manfrotto tripod.
> 
> Since there is no Bogen dealer nearby, I have to make a trip to NYC to
> see how it really works.  Does anybody in the net own this tripod?
> Could you explain how the triggers linked to the leg joints?  The thing
> I'd like to know is whether having the above-described feature affects
> the overall ruggedness of the joints.   I doubt that 12.65 lbs tripod is
> aever designed with any strength-related problem.  But I'd like to hear
> how useful in practice this feature is from real owners.
> 

I have a 3051. The quick leg release is very useful, particularly so because
the tripod is so heavy that holding up with one hand while trying to
adjust the legs would be quite an excercise! It is a VERY sturdy tripod
but very heavy. The quick release levers require quite a bit of force to
operate. I don't know how the system works - the mechanism is not really
exposed and visible as far as I recall. I do not recommend the 3051 as a
field tripod unless you are a weightlifter. After carrying it about a
mile, you will wish you had bought something lighter. However if you
don't need to carry it very far, it is all the tripod you will ever need!

===============================================================
Bob Atkins  AT&T Bell Labs  email (direct)  att!clockwise!rma
===============================================================

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: tjwu@athena.mit.edu (Thomas J Wu)
Subject: Re: USM vs. regular lens
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 17:41:25 GMT

In article <C0D76q.6v2@watcgl.uwaterloo.ca> fjaubert@watcgl.uwaterloo.ca (Fabrice Jaubert) writes:
>
>  I'm thinking of buying a 75-300 zoom for my EOS. I can get the regular
>  (Micro-Motor?) version, or the USM version for $50 to $60 more.
>
>  Other than the focusing motor, are these lens different? Does the USM come
>  with better optics? Otherwise, I think I'd rather save $60 and live with a
>  noisier motor - or am I missing something?

The USM and non-USM lenses are optically identical.  The only difference
is the focusing motor.

>  Does anybody have any experience with either of these lens? How do they
>  perform in general?

Although I don't have either 75-300, I have tried them out when I was looking
to buy a telephoto zoom.  The Canon 75-300 lenses are only "average"
quality according to a Pop. Photo review sometime in '92.  You might
want to consider the 100-300 USM, which is optically better than the 75-300
and focuses faster and quieter because it uses internal/rear focusing
elements.  It also has a distance scale and IR correction marks, not to
mention manual focusing in AF mode.  Of course, it *is* more expensive,
so I'd recommend you try them out for yourself and see if it is worth it.

>  Thanks for any tips and info...
>
>	   ...Fabrice
>
>  -- 
>
>  Fabrice Jaubert                                        Computer Graphics Lab
>  fjaubert@watcgl.waterloo.edu                        U. of  Waterloo, Ontario

Thomas Wu
Internet:  tjwu@athena.mit.edu
From: wball@MtHolyoke.edu (Wayne Ball)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: FORSALE - Konica &lenses, $150
Date: 12 Jan 1993 12:29:35 -0500
Organization: Mount Holyoke College
NNTP-Posting-Host: slab.mtholyoke.edu
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5


Konica Autoreflex 'A' body
57mm /1.4
80-200 /3.5
2x converter

All for $150.  All the items look good and work well.
Camera comes with a case, that shows some wear but the
camera has seen very little use over the years.

Wayne Ball
Mount Holyoke College
S. Hadley, MA
wball@mhc.mtholyoke.edu
From: glporter@zeus.calpoly.edu (Glen Porter)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: use your hand as a grey card when out doors - especially in snow.
Date: 8 Jan 93 02:02:13 GMT
Organization: California Polytechnic State University, San Luis Obispo


I do quite a bit of wildlife shooting in the snow, and have always used the 
back of my hand for a grey card.  It isnt grey, but it has roughly the same
reflectivity that a grey card has, so it works quite well for me.  If you 
have light, or dark colored skin, you might think of using a grey glove.  But, 
different materials (fabric) have different reflectivities, so take a test roll 
first!  Good idea, even with a mildly tanned hand such as mine.

hope that helps!

-glen

glporter@nike.calpoly.edu                  (Glen Porter)   *
California Polytechnic State University, San Luis Obispo   *
Network Software Specialist / Technician   (805)756-1295   *
Electronic Engineering and Physics                         *
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: mlindholm@cc.helsinki.fi
Subject: Which Pentax MF bodies have TTL flash metering?
Organization: University of Helsinki
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 22:03:57 GMT

My wife owns a Pentax ME super a few lenses
and a Metz 32CT7 flash.  She likes them very much, 
but the camera does not have TTL flash metering.  
Could you tell me which Pentax manual focus bodies 
have this feature and what are they like otherwise?


Again, all information is gratefully acknowledged.

Mikko Lindholm

Mikko.Lindholm@helsinki.fi
or: mlindholm@cc.helsinki.fi
Newsgroups: rec.photo,misc.forsale
From: ychen@hubcap.clemson.edu (User Chen)
Subject: Re: 4 Sale: Assorted 55mm filters (photo equip.)
Organization: Clemson University
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 02:40:53 GMT

ychen@hubcap.clemson.edu (Eric Chen) writes:


>The following 55 mm filters for sale:
>If you have 52mm to 55mm adapter ring (about $3), you can use these
>filters on your 52mm diameter lenses.

>Canon close-up lens 450 (I think it's 4.5X)
>Canon R1 6X (6X red)
>Canon softmat #1
>Vivitar deep yellow #15
>Vivitar soft focus
>Hoya CS (cross)
>Hoya PL (Polarizer)
>Hoya 80A (blue)

>Please feel free to make offer, I prefer to sell a whole set.

>Eric
--------------------------------------

All of them have been sold.  Thank you for all the replies.

Eric
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: asanders@adobe.com (Alan Sanders)
Subject: HELP: 8008s Film Advance/Rewind Problem
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 20:52:08 GMT

I recently had occasion to reload a partially-exposed 
24-exposure roll of color negative film into my 8008s 
and had the following problem:

First of all, the film refused to advance past frame 21,
even though I normally get 26 shots from a 24-exposure
roll. When I rewound the film, it seemed to me that the
rewind sequence stopped prematurely, and subsequent tries
at restarting the rewind process were unsuccessful as well.
Each time, the rewind motor would run for a few seconds
and stop. When I opened the camera back (in my darkroom),
I found the roll still partially wound onto the takeup
spool. Does anybody know what might have happened, and
what I can do to prevent this from happening again?

Thanks for your help.

Alan
asanders@adobe.com
From: al@qiclab.scn.rain.com (Alan Peterman)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Nikon Handbook (was Re: NIKON F2 Lens selection help)
Date: 10 Jan 93 03:17:14 GMT
Article-I.D.: qiclab.1993Jan10.031714.2124
Organization: SCN Research/Qic Laboratories of Tigard, Oregon.

Lots of questions there (and good ones), but I really think anyone who is
seriously into Nikon gear ought to own Peterson's "Nikon System Handbook".
There are other aftermarket books, but this one tells about ALL the
models up to the 8008, and all the lenses and accessories.  It also
has quite a bit of info on AI/s lens compatibility and flash compatibility.

It also is nice in that it reviews each lens (although I've found at
least one error) and tells which are good/bad and wonderful.  There is
also a price guide for used Nikon gear.  At $19.95 it is very worthwhile.

"Nikon System Handbook", B. "Moose" Peterson, Images Press Inc., 1991,
IBSN: 0-929667-03-4.     (800) 367-4854 or 212-243-2306.



-- 
Alan L. Peterman                                 (503)-684-1984 hm & work
                       al@qiclab.scn.rain.com
It's odd how as I get older, the days are longer, but the years are shorter!
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: poole@bnr.ca (Thomas Poole)
Subject: Olympus XA/XA 2 Opinions Wanted
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Ottawa, Canada
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 19:24:36 GMT


Has anyone used the Olympus XA or XA 2?  Do you
have any opinions?  How are the optics?  Can I 
expect good 8x10s with it?  As I understand it
is a coupled rangefinder, how is it at focusing?
All opinions greatly appreciated.
Tom...
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: patrice@cenparmi.concordia.ca (SCATTOLIN patrice)
Subject: Re: Camera Shops In Montreal?
Organization: CENPARMI, Concordia University, Montreal, Canada
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 16:03:54 GMT

In article <1993Jan12.142144.4845@bcrka451.bnr.ca> poole@bnr.ca (Thomas Poole) writes:
>I will be heading to Montreal this Saturday and
>was wondering what places are good for used
>equipment.
>Tom...

Simons Camera. Right in front of La Presse. They have the cheapest prices
I have found and are honest. 11 St-Jacques west. Look for a tall skinny
guy with blond hair. He's called Alain. Tell him Patrice sent you. 

There is NDG Camera. right in front of Square Philips, around The Bay
(it's next to two good software and book stores). I have had problems
with repared equipement from them and won't deal with them again. However
some people swear by them and they are apparently the best for rentals. 

L.L. Loseault. On St-Hubert. Nice store, the widest selection in town
also the most expensive. If you want something they will probably
have it in stock. 

There are a few more you can look them up in the yellow pages. 


-- 
Patrice Scattolin
					patrice@cs.concordia.ca
Concordia University			Montreal, Canada
"I am so far north that Santa lives two blocks from me"
-- 
Patrice Scattolin
					patrice@cs.concordia.ca
Concordia University			Montreal, Canada
"I am so far north that Santa lives two blocks from me"
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: phr@telebit.com (Paul Rubin)
Subject: Re: about 300mmF2.8 and 200mmF2.0
Organization: Telebit Corporation; Sunnyvale, CA, USA
	<1993Jan12.180643.20345@ultb.isc.rit.edu>
Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1993 02:41:28 GMT

In article <1993Jan12.180643.20345@ultb.isc.rit.edu> ecldco@ultb.isc.rit.edu (E.C. Loyd) writes:

   All you need to do is get a mirror lens...$100US for a 500mm, and spend
   some change on a 2x converter...$25 or so used.

   That's what I do.  Now, before I get flamed (I know, we don't flame on 
   rec.photo) for this, I REALIZE the inherent dangers of mirror lenses with
   teleconverters, especially those that are doublers.  But, for a 1meter
   lens for $150 (mail order prices), you can't go wrong.

Yes you can.  Every cheap 500mm mirror lens I've used has been garbage.
I'd have done better with my cheap 70-210 zoom and 2.5x as much
enlargement.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: ecldco@ultb.isc.rit.edu (E.C. Loyd)
Subject: Re: Shoulder mounts for bird photography (long)
Reply-To: ecldco@ultb.isc.rit.edu (E.C. Loyd)
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 14:22:44 GMT

Since I'm not about to reproduce the article here,
acs@genie.csri.toronto.edu wrote that when using a
tripod, when the bird moves to the right, you have to pan
to the left, making the use of a tripod anti-intuitive.

Would you be so kind as to explain why your tripod
works differently than mine?  When I see a bird go
to the right in my viewfinder, my camera goes to the
right as well.  I never have problems with it.

Also, he mentions the production of a shoulder mount
for cameras for birding photography.  I find that a monopod
is usually quite adequate for those daily tromps through
the fields, but if you're stalking nests, that a tripod
is easy to use if you have a good, light-yet-sturdy,
"configurable" tripod.  I like my Bogen 3005, which has
three legs that can be moved out beyond the normal
triangle configuration, so each leg can be at a different
angle than the others with respect to "up."  The three-way
pan/tilt head is also nice, and the quick release allows me
to support either the camera body or the lens without messing
with knobs and screws.

I do have a shoulder mount (home-made) that supports my
camera (Minolta) and a Tamron 400mm lens with a doubler
attached and 3/4" extension tube attached.  The distance
between the camera mount and the lens mount, however,
means that this arrangement is heavily customized, and
basically usuable only in that combination (or just the
camera alone).

All in all, though, the tripod mount is the most convenient for
me.  Of course, it may not be for everyone.  :-)
--
Eric C. Loyd                            ecldco@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
ISC/Data Center Operations              Phone: (716) 475-7320
Rochester Institute of Technology       FAX:   (716) 475-5306
Rochester, NY  14623  USA               All-In-One: LOYD EC (@a1.isc.rit.edu)
From: allana@hpmwtd.sr.hp.com (Allan Armstrong)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Advice sought on 35mm slide projectors
Date: 8 Jan 93 16:35:58 GMT
Organization: HP Santa Rosa Site (SRSD MWTD)

I second the recommendation for the Kodak projector. I have a
Reflecta/Bogen AF projector. It's cheaper, but I have to reload my
slides to show them at a friend's house. More importantly, the lens that
comes with the Reflecta projector is abominable. If you want sharp focus
in the center, you get blur on the edges and vice-versa.

Allan

P. S. - Anyone wanna buy a slightly used Reflecta projector?
From: allana@hpmwtd.sr.hp.com (Allan Armstrong)
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 17:27:49 GMT
Subject: Re: Black and White Photography - Can I do it?
Organization: HP Santa Rosa Site (SRSD MWTD)
Newsgroups: rec.photo

mail bounced so here is my response:

>I love black and white
>photography (nature scenes and old buildings).  I'd love to try it.  Is
all
>I have to do it insert a roll of B&W and start snapping away then take it
>to Walgreens for developing?  (yes I am an amatuer)  Should I get a
>polarizing filter?

>Im not interested in taking people pictures and I dont want to take a
class
>(yet).  I just want to know if it will work.

Yes, it will work just fine. Go ahead and give it a try.

Now a warning: the appeal of b/w photography is the ability to
manipulate your images after you have taken the negative. You can make
them darker lighter, higher contrast, and lower contrast. You can crop
them to recompose the picture and give it more impact. Also, you can
dodge or burn an area to make it lighter or darker in order to make the
picture more compelling. The drug store won't do any of this for you.
You can pay a pro lab to do this, but it is your own personal
interpretation that makes b/w exciting. If you don't take the initiative
to do it yourself, you will be better off just shooting color.

But give it a try... you might just get hooked.

If there is a local JC class on b/w, I would highly recommend that you
take it. I started playing with b/w this summer and taking it to labs.
It was quite unsatisfactory. Then I took the b/w class this fall and
quickly started getting some really exciting pictures. Last week I built
my own darkroom and monday night made my first print in it.

As for filters, get a good polarizer, but you'll find that you don't use
it much for b/w. It's wonderful for color. For b/w you'll probably find
a yellow filter and a red filter most useful. The yellow filter restores
the normal tonal relationships. Most b/w film interprets yellow as being
darker than we perceive it and the filter corrects this. Essential for
photographing Aspen in the fall. Also, b/w film interprets a blue sky as
40 lines more (you've seen 57%)being lighter than we generally want it
and the yellow filter fixes this. The red filter can be used for
dramatically darkening skies and seems to be my favorite filter. If you
are photographing red flowers like rhododendrons or roses, you will find
that the flower is typically too dark and there is little tonal
separation between the flower and the foliage. The red filter will
lighten the flower and darken the foliage.

There are many other colored filters that are useful for b/w, but these
two are a start. All work on the same principle. A filter lightens its
own color and darkens opposite colors. A yellow-green filter (looks green
to me, but is called yellow-green) is often used to add more texture to
caucasian faces. The green is opposite the reddish color of rosy cheeks
and also opposite the color of lips, so it darkens them, too.

Allan
From: edharris@ohstpy.mps.ohio-state.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: graphic arts film help
Date: 6 Jan 93 00:55:56 EST
Organization: The Ohio State University, Department of Physics

I am using Kodak 6556 graphic arts film, but if possible I'd like a film with
better resolution ( they guy at the camera store couldn't think of anything
better ).

Anybody know of a film, or am I out of luck?

ps this is just for making clear field/dark field photomasks...

Thanks
Ed
Newsgroups: rec.photo