HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: eap@vuse.vanderbilt.edu (Edward A. Parrish)
Subject: Re: Stile and rail bits for routers
Organization: Vanderbilt University School of Engineering, Nashville, TN, USA
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 20:33:09 GMT

In article <5209@ceylon.gte.com> (Michael Hackney) writes:
>In article <1993Jan6.080636.5373@netcom.com>, you wrote:
>> 
>> I have seen stile and rail bits advertised for routers
>> in FW.  Do these things do the job for cabinet
........
>> Michelle
>
>There are 2 basic types of style and rail router bits; interchangable and
........
>
>As for raised panels, there is another option you may not be aware of,
>vertical raised panel bits for your router. These bits are patented (I
>believe) by Woodhaven and are available from them and many other places.
>Instead of being large diameter like 'normal' panel bits (that's why you
>need slower RPM) they are tall and skinny (see drawing). I am making new
>kitchen cabinets in oak using one of these bits for all the panels. One
>limitation, they only work on straight edges, no curved tops allowed.
.......
>michael

There are a couple of other options I've used successfully.
One is a molding head cutter equiped with panel raising cutters and a
radial arm saw - works really well and is a safe way to perform the
work. The second is to use a tall auxil fence on a table saw. I cut
four curfs an 1/8" deep or so to outline the panel and then tilt the
blade to 10 degrees or so and make the bevel cuts. In both cases, do
the ends first and then the sides.
-- 
Goal: To benefit from the offer for "Free Tools Tomorrow" that
is posted in many store windows.
Standard Disclaimer, of course.
From: ben@angelo.amd.com (Ben Chang)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: What to do after the fact [was WARNING (response to...)]
Date: 6 Jan 93 16:29:38 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Advanced Micro Devices, Santa Clara, CA

In response to an article where someone's fingers get chopped off....

I've heard that you should take the finger and put it in a glass of milk
or salt water then get to the hospital for surgery.  Does that sound right?

Just in case it does happen I suppose we should be prepared

Ben
From: kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM (John Kopf,D,6305)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: WARNING
Date: 12 Jan 93 18:17:31 GMT
Reply-To: kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems

>Or, do we need a new group rec.crafts.woodworking.accidents?? 

Something like that.

MY problem is that I can't keep up with all the postings *AND* my job.

Seriously, perhaps splitting into:

rec.crafts.woodworking.safety
	''		tools
	''		techniques

..might be more useful.  An alternative might be to do what other groups do, and
start the subject with a title such as SAFETY or TOOLS so those not of interest can
be skipped.

Any thoughts?

JK
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-VMS-To: IN%"WOODWORK%IPFWVM.BitNet@pucc.PRINCETON.EDU"
MIME-version: 1.0
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Wed, 6 Jan 1993 08:45:07 -0500
From:         "Wile E. Coyote" <BBHULSEY@LIFE.UAMS.EDU>
Subject:      Re: Sale on Quick-Grip clamps

Greetings!

Don Berry writes:

>     I saw these extremely low prices for Quick-Grip bar
> clamps in a special flyer from Harbor Freight...

If you have a Sam's Wholesale Club in your area (and a membership of course)
check out the prices there.  I seem to recall having spent something like $26
for _two_ of the 36 inch clamps (you have to buy two, though).  They also
stock a smaller set, I believe they were 12 inch.  Again, the prices were
lower than Harbor Freight, but again, you have to buy two at a time.

.......
:  o/ : Bruce Hulsey
: <|  : Univ. of Arkansas for Medical Sciences
: / > : internet: bbhulsey@life.uams.edu
:.....: bitnet:   bbhulsey@uams
From: rhaar@albert.cs.gmr.com (Bob Haar)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: What to do after the fact [was WARNING
Date: 7 Jan 93 19:35:10 GMT
Reply-To: rhaar@albert.cs.gmr.com
Organization: G.M. Research Laboratories

In article 93Jan7132927@spinner.osf.org, drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas S. Rand) writes:
|>In article <145263@lll-winken.LLNL.GOV> gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot) writes:
|>
|>   ...
|>   will probably eliminate chances of successful reattachment.  Don't do it.
|>   The recommended procedure is to pack the parts in ice (quickly) and
|>   proceed (quickly) to the nearest ER.  Let the pros handle any solutions
|>   necessary.  And get someone else to drive if you can.  If you lose it
|>   on the freeway, fingers may be the least of your problems.
|>
|>If you pack it in ice,  then make sure to put it in a sealed
|>plastic bag.  I believe the melting ice will contaminate it also.
|>

If you are far enough from medical help that keeping the amputated
body part cool seems necessary, then you can put it on ice as
suggested.

*BUT* there is a real danger of freezing the tissue if it is placed
directly in ice or just enclosed in a plastic bag.

The advice from the EMT instructor here was to not waste time
putting an amputated body part on ice if you can get to an
emergency room quickly. If you beleive that it is advisable to
keep the part cool, then wrap it in sterile gauze, put that in a baggy,
and put that on top (not inside) of some ice.

However, the most important things to keep in mind is to get
professional medical help as soon as possible and to avoid
causing any further injuries or tissue damage.


---
  	Robert Haar               InterNet : rhaar@gmr.com 
	Computer Science Dept., G.M. Research Laboratories
DISCLAIMER: Unless indicated otherwise, everything in this note is
personal opinion, not an official statement of General Motors Corp.


From: peterd@hpgrla.gr.hp.com (Peter Davidoff)
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 20:59:39 GMT
Subject: Re: Jointers, Which one to buy?
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Greeley, CO
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking



I've been following this thread with interest... I intend to
purchase a 6" jointer soon.  I have considered the Griz, and
called for a reference.  The first they gave me had no listing
here in Northern Colorado.  I called back, Griz gave me another
reference, and this person too is not listed.  The jointer is
currently selling for $347 (+$66 delivery).  It has a 90 day
warranty, 1 yr on the motor.

I started calling around for the Jet.  They are sold in several
stores on the south end of Denver, 'bout 1.5-2hrs from home.  The
price varies from $465 w/1yr warranty to $525 with 2yr warranty.

I called Powermatic to see who sold their Artisan line.  One here
in Fort Collins, I called... they will special order it, they don't
*really* carry tools, its a sideline.  Hmmm.  A store in Denver 
said they were going to get 8 of 'em in next wee, but Powermatic
said that store doesn't carry their product.  Hmmm.  Woodworker's
store in Denver has a floor demo unit for $499.  It seems that the
Artisan has an extruded Al fence like the Delta.  I was told this
is better than the steel fence since it wont warp.  I asked what might
happen if I accidentally whack it with a piece of hard maple -- 'You'll
have to replace it' I was told.

Given the talk on this rec. I'm not sure I'm interested in the 
Delta (or the Artisan) with the extruded fence.

I'm not sure about the Ryobi... seems good, but... but I don't know.
Guess, like many have said in this thread, it's between the Ryobi and
the Jet.

Anyway... thought I'd share the *saga of the search for a jointer*.

Peter
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mbessire@boi.hp.com (Mike Bessire)
Subject: Mobile home remodeling
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 21:53:55 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]


     I couldn't find another notes group that was better suited to this 
subject, so here goes...

     I just recently purchased a mobile home which previously had a leak in 
the roof over the kitchen. Consequently the ceiling tiles are sagging a little.
The mobile was constructed by installing the linoleum, carpet, and 14'    
ceiling tiles first, then the walls were installed. 

    Does anyone have any experience or ideas on installing a new ceiling, or 
cheaper yet, fixing the old one?

Michael Bessire 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mark@thor.asteroids (Mark Bakke)
Subject: Re: WARNING
Reply-To: mark@network.com
Organization: Network Systems Corporation
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 93 17:41:17 GMT

In article 1i7jf7INNgbc@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu, cf036@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (G. Gary Preckshot) writes:
>
>I'd also suggest that because you were frustrated at not getting
>much done in your limited private time, you were in a hurry to
>make every precious moment count.  Add #4 to your list "I was
>in a hurry and took shortcuts."

My dad just chewed up two fingers on the tablesaw trying to take a
shortcut.  He was ripping very small pieces (about 1" x 3/4") for some
jewelry boxes without using a push stick or a guard.  He's been working
wood for about 30 years now, and doesn't normally do this sort of thing,
except for when he's in a hurry.  After a trip to the E.R., which cost
him alot more time than doing it right would have, he finished the job
on the bandsaw.  Fortunately, he only lost skin and nails this time, and
they're growing back just fine.  It could have been alot worse.

>
>I have a few scars too, most notable is a saw scar 1/3 way
>through my right thumb.  It only went partway through due to
>a dull bandsaw blade, not lack of pressure on my part.  In
>all instances I've identified one common factor: I was in a hurry
>and took a shortcut.

So far, I've been either careful or lucky.


Mark A. Bakke
mark@network.com

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: animal@rtp-nc.mentorg.com (ANIMAL)
Subject: Re: Power Switch on RAS ???
Summary: 
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 19:04:04 GMT
Reply-To: animal@rtp-nc.mentorg.com
Organization: Mentor Graphics Corporation
Keywords: 
Followup-To: 

The little red lever near the gearbox on the induction drive motor on the 
squiblet flubigator is to change from random-orbit to fixed drive.
---
________________________________________________________
000 000
(_) (_)    animal@rtp-nc.mentorg.com
________________________________________________________
                     ____  
     ^      |\   || |_  _| |\    /|      ^      ||
    /^\     | \  ||   ||   | \  / |     /^\     ||
   // \\    ||\\ ||   ||   ||\\//||    // \\    ||
  //___\\   || \\||   ||   || \/ ||   //___\\   ||
 //_____\\  ||  \ |  _||_  ||    ||  //_____\\  ||_____
//       \\ ||   \| |____| ||    || //       \\ |______|
________________________________________________________

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: terryk@encore.com (Terence M. Kelleher)
Subject: Food Safe wood finish
Organization: Encore Computer Corp.
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 19:54:11 GMT


I am looking for a certified food safe wood finish, to be used on
turned wine goblets.  It needs to be impervious to alcohol, oil and
water, taste free, and approved for food use by the FDA or NSF.  Any
suggestions?

I have tried "Salad Bowl Finish", but it fails on a couple counts.  It
is not NSF or FDA approved, and it is not 100% impervious to alcohol.
I can taste it in the scotch.  I expect this would be true of any
polyurathane finish.

Basic, natural oil finishes don't do it either, as the alcohol flows
right on through them. 

I have also used 2-part acrylic (epoxy?) which is intended for table
and bar tops.  This works well, but is not approved by NSF or FDA, and
the manufacturers do not recommend it for food use.

Terry Kelleher

--

Terence Kelleher                 +----------------+
Encore Computer Corp.         +--+-------------+  |
Owego, NY                     |  | E N C O R E |  |
terryk@encore.com             |  +-------------+--+
607-687-2644                  +----------------+

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: phil@eos.arc.nasa.gov (Phil Stone)
Subject: Another door question
Organization: NASA Ames Res. Ctr, Calif.
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 23:14:19 GMT


I posted a couple of weeks ago asking advice about replacing an
exterior door on my house.  The door is of non-standard size, and
I am more concerned about weather-tightness than security.

I originally planned to make a tongue-and-groove plank door, but
a few respondents warned me that wood movement would be a big
problem, especially since the door is exposed to outside weather.
So I'm now resigned to a plywood sandwich design, but can't figure
out how to edge the door to make it weathertight.  I know the
outside edges of the plywood need to be protected in some way...

Any suggestions?


		Phil Stone  (phil@eos.arc.nasa.gov | ...ames!eos!phil)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: eap@vuse.vanderbilt.edu (Edward A. Parrish)
Subject: Re: custom router bits?
Organization: Vanderbilt University School of Engineering, Nashville, TN, USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 21:09:40 GMT

In article <1993Jan8.180121.15779@cbfsb.cb.att.com> corwin@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (carl.w.smedberg) writes:
>
>I'm in the process of making copy of a cabinet and I can't seem
>to figure out how to duplicate the edge detail on the door.
>The profile is about an 3/16th inch deep and 11/16ths of an inch wide. 
.....
>I've been through several catalogs full of router bits but even 
>multiple passes with different bits won't seem to produce the same
>results. If a custom bit is the way to go who do you recommend and what
>kind of price and delivery time should I expect? This isn't a one
>shot deal. I've got quite a few doors to make if I have to layout
>big bucks for the bit.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Carl Smedberg
>att!ihlpm!corwin
Well, I don't know about custom router bits, but do know you can make
nearly any kind of edge using molding head cutters for a radial arm
saw. You can use different cutters at different heights/angles to
achieve what you want. On a router or shaper, varying the angle
generally isn't an option without a pretty fancy jig or table. Of
course, without a RAS and molding head cutter, ....

Hope this helps at least generate some other ideas. Luck to you.

-- 
Goal: To benefit from the offer for "Free Tools Tomorrow" that
is posted in many store windows.
Standard Disclaimer, of course.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: rdc@world.std.com (Ralph D Clifford)
Subject: Re: Chess table design
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 20:07:12 GMT

In article <1993Jan6.230837.808@pixel.kodak.com> john@ektools.kodak.com (John H. Hall) writes:
>
>I'm trying to design a chess table.  I plan to do the table in maple,
>with a maple and walnut chessboard on the top.  The table top will
>consist of the chessboard, framed by a 1/4" walnut strip, and then
>by 5" of maple, mitered at the corners.  ASCII approximation:

diagram deleted

>I see three ways to do it:
>
>1. Glue it all up from pieces of 4/4 solid wood.  My concern is that even
>if the grain of the squares is all parallel, half of the walnut and maple 
>surrounding it will be crossgrain.  If the framing pieces are glued to 
>the chessboard, I worry what will happen when the humidity changes and 
>the wood moves.

     I trick I saw somewhere for making chessboards starts by glueing up 8
pieces of wood in an alternating pattern, in walnut (W) and maple (M) as
follows:

	WMWMWMWM
	WMWMWMWM
	WMWMWMWM

After the glue-up dries, you cut out each strip, giving you:

 	WMWMWMWM      WMWMWMWM   etc.

Reverse every other strip and do another glue up, either on a piece of 1/4"
ply or with biscuits (One or the other is needed, otherwise, since you are
gluing end-grain to end-grain, the board will fail).  This will give you:

	WMWMWMWM
	MWMWMWMW
	WMWMWMWM

All of the grain runs the same way, so that expansion of the board should
not be a problem, since it will grow and shrink in the same direction.


-- 
Ralph Clifford
rdc@world.std.com (Internet)
From: parnass@cbnewse.cb.att.com (Bob Parnass, AJ9S)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Jointers, Which one to buy?
Summary: Ryobi jointer has stainless steel on outfeed table
Date: 11 Jan 93 16:54:45 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories, Naperville, IL


The Ryobi jointer has aluminum fence and tables, but
the outfeed table is covered with stainless steel.
I don't have the table extensions.

As my previous posting on jointers said, owners of the 6" Delta
consumer jointer told me some bad things (fence hard to adjust
accurately, etc) so I bought the Ryobi instead of the Delta.

The Ryobi has worked like a champ so far.  I use it for
both edge and surface jointing hardwoods -- especially handy
for the glue up of boards I use in making bandsaw boxes.
-- 
==============================================================================
Bob Parnass, AJ9S  -  AT&T Bell Labs  -  parnass@ihlpm.att.com - (708)979-5414
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-VMS-To: IN%"WOODWORK%IPFWVM.BitNet@pucc.PRINCETON.EDU"
MIME-version: 1.0
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Wed, 6 Jan 1993 16:51:58 -0500
From:         "Wile E. Coyote" <BBHULSEY@LIFE.UAMS.EDU>
Subject:      Re: Eye protection

Greetings!

Tom Johnson writes:

>More on the subject of shop safety:
>
>I'm going in for a routine eye exam this week, followed by
>purchase of new glasses.
>
>Echoing through my mind are Norm's famous words:  "No safety rule
>is more important than these ... a good pair of safety glasses."
>(or something like that).
>
>This made me wonder:  For (extremely) myopic woodworkers, are
>safety glasses better than goggles over glasses?  I, for one, hate
>goggles; they tend to fog and gather dust, and overall tend to obscure
>my vision badly.  I always wear them, but I wonder if there's anything
>better.
>
>Has anyone out there used prescription safety glasses?  Are they any
>better?  Do they come with some sort of snap-on side guards to protect
>the sides?

For certain tasks (such as routing, where I sometimes really need to look
closely at my workpiece) I prefer to use a full face mask, around $15-$20.
These can easily be worn with a dust mask underneath and with prescription
glasses.  If you wear a dust mask like I do (one held on with elastic straps)
glasses or glasses-style goggles tend to sit on the part of the mask that fits
over your nose, rather than on the nose itself.  This arrangement usually gets
quite a bit of dust blown back in my eyes through the resulting gap.  I'd go
for the full face mask.

.......
:  o/ : Bruce Hulsey
: <|  : Univ. of Arkansas for Medical Sciences
: / > : internet: bbhulsey@life.uams.edu
:.....: bitnet:   bbhulsey@uams
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: wartik@software.org (Steve Wartik)
Subject: Dust Masks for Us 4-Eyed Types
Originator: wartik@software.software.org
Organization: Software Productivity Consortium, Herndon, Virginia
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 13:53:36 GMT


Okay, we're all computer jocks as well as woodworkers, right?
And computer jocks stare at their screens all day, ruin their
vision, and need glasses.  And glasses interefere with all the
dust masks I've tried.  Has anyone found a brand of dust mask
that works, yet leaves enough of the nose exposed that one's
glasses aren't constantly fighting for position?

				-- Steve Wartik
				   wartik@software.org
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mje@pookie.pass.wayne.edu (Michael J. Edelman)
Subject: Re: Scrapers - want more info
Reply-To: mje@pookie.pass.wayne.edu
Organization: Wayne State University
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 20:54:13 GMT

The secret of scrapers is in proper edge preperation. First, make sure the
edge is as square as possible, using a stone or file. The real art is in 
putting a proper hook on the edge. Using a hardened burnisher or the tang of a 
file, drag the tool across the edge with some pressure. You want to create a
sharp lip that will function as a tiny and very sharp plane. A properly prepared	scraper will shave wood, not scrape dust. I believe one of the Fine Woodworking
books has a nice article on using scrapers- probably the one on hand tools or
on planes and chisels.

         --mike


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mcovingt@aisun3.ai.uga.edu (Michael Covington)
Subject: Any other kinds of 3-inch pin-end scroll saw blades?
Organization: AI Programs, University of Georgia, Athens
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 05:00:53 GMT

I have a Dremel scroll saw that takes 3-inch (n.b.: not 5-inch)
pin-end blades.

As far as I know, only two kinds of blades are available for it
(both at Sears and from Dremel): coarse and fine.

In particular, there is no spiral blade available.
  
Does anyone know of any other vendor of 3-inch pin-end blades?

(Yes, I know, I should get a newer scroll saw...)

-- 
:-  Michael A. Covington     internet mcovingt@uga.cc.uga.edu :    *****
:-  Artificial Intelligence Programs       phone 706 542-0358 :  *********
:-  The University of Georgia                fax 706 542-0349 :   *  *  *
:-  Athens, Georgia 30602-7415 U.S.A.     amateur radio N4TMI :  ** *** **
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Resawing with Delta 16 inch bandsaw
Date: 6 Jan 93 17:12:57 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

Tom Saksa writes:
>  I was using 3/8" blades.  I know that some folks do use wider blades on
>  this saw, but I have not tried it.  I do not know if the reason that Delta 
>  does not recommend larger blades is an issue of power, tentioning, or
>  safety, but see no reason to try pushing the recommended limits.  If I
>  really need a saw that takes larger blades I will upgrade to a larger
>  model.  

What size blades did you use?  I have read (here, I think) that, since
it is difficult to get the 82 inch blades sufficiently tensioned, using
slightly smaller blades (presumably 78 - 80 inches) is a good fix. Btw
I have this same saw and the same problems.

Dave
-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
"I look back with some satisfaction on what an idiot I was when I was 25,
 but when I do that, I'm assuming I'm no longer an idiot." - Andy Rooney
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: micki@netcom.com (Michelle Stone)
Subject: Re: Simple problem, solution needed
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 07:11:39 GMT

mcovingt@aisun3.ai.uga.edu (Michael Covington) writes:

>In building toys and small gadgets, I'm often faced with the following
>problem:
>  
>  What is the best way to make a clean, perpendicular crosscut in
>  a piece of molding or other wood considerably smaller than a 2x4?


>Any other suggestions?  Do I need Dremel's baby table saw (4")?
>Or what?

Yup.  I have one of those little Dremel's.  I love it.  That is how
I started to build things.... 1/12 scale.  I was building furniture
and got interested in the real thing.  After all, I was spending a great
deal of time on the small stuff that I coulcn't use!  In any case,
you can build all of the same jigs for a regular TS and cut REALLY
small stuff.

Michelle

-- 
micki@netcom.com

By the way.  I find myself to be a recent addition to the 
unemployment statistic.  I am a software manager living
in silicon valley.  If you know of an opportunity, please
let me know!


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: fkilpatr@afit.af.mil (Freeman A. Kilpatrick)
Subject: Crib Plans Available
Keywords: crib, baby
Organization: Air Force Institute of Technology
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 19:04:12 GMT

There was some recent discussion here about baby cribs.  There are some
nice plans in the current issue of 'Wood' magazine.  Some of the
construction is a little odd, but the crib does llok nice.  I think the
corner posts may be a little longer than spec, but that is easily
remedied.
-- 
Alex Kilpatrick  fkilpatr@afit.af.mil  
"There are also persistant rumors that IBM will soon offer a hard-disk drive, 
an expensive accessory that only a businessman would want..."
--- Popular Computing, December 1981
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking