HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: milo@dorm.rutgers.edu (james mielo)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: How to buy a 85-87 VW Golf (or something else...)
Date: 15 Nov 92 20:43:00 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.vw
Distribution: na
Organization: rutgers university

In article <1992Nov13.110852.1@stsci.edu>, szapudi@stsci.edu wrote:
> 
> 
>  Hi VW experts out there,

>    -what is the acceptable milage (there are a
> lot of cars out there with around 100,000 or more)
      It's hard to say. Figure tires last 30-40k
                                clutch 45-60+
                                shocks  50k
                                brakes (front pads) 30-40k (rotors) ???
                                tranny who knows(mines gone at 30k)
         take these things into consideration. If you buy a car with 40k on
it expect to replace the clutch,brakes and shocks before your two years are
up. I would never buy a car with more than 50k on it. Too much could go
wrong but 100k seems to be the limit of VW life. Depending on the condition
and maintenance of the previous owner, you could expect other things to
fail but  regular wear items are relatively constant factors.
      My friend bought an 87 supra turbo 32k. Really  tried to squeeze it
into his budget since he really wanted it but didn't factor into the budget
operating costs. three months later, tire were bald and he had no $ left.
Had to sell it and take a loss



>    -is diesel an acceptable option: a few friends of mine
> said I "corner myself in a box" if a buy a diesel, because
> in the states diesels are so rare that only few mechanincs
> work on them, parts are expensive and harder to get, therefore
> it is much more expensive to maintain while the resale value
> is about thee half of  a gas modell

        diesel fuel is hard to find but the deisels are probably the most
reliable VW models plus great fuel econ. Also, every VW dealer should be
able to fix them

>    -is the automatic a good option i.e. is it reliable and
> how much does it screw the gas/milage

  I like the 5speed better. You lose too much performance with the VW
3speed auto

>    -what are my other options (I just want a reliable but
> still cool transportation which sits 5 people and I can 
> pack my stuff in it: a HB), maybe a Rabbit, or GTI? I can't
> spend a lot more then three grands

     I like the 84 rabbit GTi( 5 people would be a squeeze). Should run <
$4k depending on mileage and location.  plus parts should be cheaper than
the newer models. A few mods will help increase the life of the car ( ie a
$65 lower tie bar, etc)
        Stick with the GTi's. They're more enjoyable

       good luck


James Mielo
Rutgers College of Pharmacy '94
milo@dorm.rutgers.edu

 *owner of a broken 1990 GTi 8v
From: nicos@csa.bu.edu (Nicos Kontopoulos)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Restricted top speed (Re: 93 Jetta GLX 6 cylinder-)
Date: 20 Nov 92 22:15:58 GMT
Reply-To: nicos@cs.bu.edu (Nicos Kontopoulos)
Organization: Computer Science Department, Boston University, Boston, MA, USA

aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer) wrote:
>ok...assuming these are true.(i do not)..but for the sake of my
>question..how come VW willnot make a car run over 140??..is it 
>electrically limited??..and why the hell do they do that anyhow!?!
>just wondering..the SLC published top speeds i've seen are 140..
>the G60's was too..now..am i wrong in that the VR6 has an extra..oh..
>bunch of horses??..why does nothing go faster than this?(don't feed
>me any shit about not being able to do it on US roads anyway.i want
>to know WHY!!)
>DREW

  I know for a fact that Mercedes and BMW (except M and 8 series) are
restricting the top speed of their vehicles to 250 Km/h (155 mph). There
is no law requiring this, it is just one more of the "active safety"
features offered by these German manufacturers.

  I am not aware that VW is following a similar policy, but it is
possible.


-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
   Nicos Kontopoulos                             Voice: (617) 787-1780
   INTERnet: nicos@cs.bu.edu                           '81 931
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Re: argument on when to change gears on VR6...
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 00:14:52 GMT

In article <1992Nov12.235149.10460@cc.umontreal.ca>, paquetis@ERE.UMontreal.CA (Paquette Isabelle) writes:

|> 
|> Which brings me to my question, when should gears be changed, or is it
|> just a questio of taste? I thought excessively low rpm's (below 3000)
|> tended to soil (soot up?) the motor.

Generally speaking, driving below 2000 RPM is neither good for the engine nor
responsive.  This is well below the torque peak (about 4600 for 16V).
As for the upper end it depends on whether the shift up will cause you to end
up below the 2000 RPM following the shift.  And there is not much to be gained
by revving much past the horsepower peak at about 6100 RPM.

On the 1.6-1.8 liter water-cooled VW's I drive, I usually shift up at around
5000 RPM (or 6000, if I'm trying to move quicker) and downshift when I drop
below 2000 RPM.  This has resulted in no adverse engine damage on cars with
as much as 140K miles on them.  

Part of my driving habits stem from the old air-cooled engine days when I
spent most of my time in 3rd gear around town to make the car more responsive
and keep the cooling fan at a reasonable speed.  I still catch myself running
around town in 3rd in my GTi at 4000 RPM.  

Keep those revs up.  German cars are designed for long periods of high RPM
for autobahn use.   I would not give the same advice for other manufacturers,
however.

Mark
From: drew@tcom.stc.co.uk (Scooby Doo)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Oil Temperature....
Date: 17 Nov 1992 09:16:31 GMT
Organization: BNR Europe, New Southgate, London N11 1HB.
NNTP-Posting-Host: bnsgs200.bnr.co.uk
Keywords: FOR SALE- SNOWS

	I noticed when driving into work this morning (COLD!!!)
that whilst the coolant temperature rises quite fast (if the gauge
is to be trusted..) the oil takes ages to warm up... 

Is there a safe period that must elapse before you can drive
the car 'hard' because of cold oil? I never take the car above
3000 rpm before the coolant gauge is in the right place (it tends
to settle just right of the LED), but after that I tend to increase
my speed :-)....

For reference it's a 1982 1.6 GTi 110BHp (Europe)

Drew.

--
	UK : (081) 945 3726		| The car in front is a Toyota...
Drew	ESN : 6 730 3726	    	| But not for long!! 
Wagar	US : +44 81 945 3726	    	| 
	Internet : drew@bnr.co.uk	| GTi drivers do it faster!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: squiec@vccnw14.its.rpi.edu (Craig L. Squier)
Subject: Re: funny electrical connection??
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 17:34:30 GMT

In article <1992Nov19.164845.15560@ee.eng.ohio-state.edu> roden@phonon.eng.ohio-state.edu (Christoph A Roden) writes:
>I have a 1981 VW scirocco ( electronic ignition, o2 sensor)
>The other day I was doing some work with the fuse panel.  I took all 5
>of the square wiring harness out of the back of the fuse panel.  When
>I was done, I reconnected everything, plugged the wiring harnesses
>back into the fuse box and remounted the fuse box.  The next day when
>I started the car the engine was vibrating funny.  While driving, the
>engine conntinued to vibrate funny, and the car had no power.  I would
>rev it up but I just could not get any power out of it.  My car's idle
>speed was fine and didn't fluctuate.
>My car was now warmed up (driving for 10-15min) and still acting the same.
>Finally I drove it hard from a stop light and while in the middle of
>'trying'  to accelarate hard, my car just started acting normal.  Just
>as if a switch had been turned.  My car has been driving fine ever
>since.  I was just curious if anyone had any guesses as to what might
>have been wrong.  
>I imagine that one of the wires into the back of the fuse box was not
>making proper contact.  I have looked at a schematic and tried to
>quess at a few, but none of them make sense.  I was curious if anyone
>would know which connections would allow the engine to run semi O.K.
>put with no power and extra vibration.
>
>I would like to try to find out what caused it so i can check the
>connection and will know what to do if it happens again.
>
>Thanks for the help.
>Chris
> 

   	I don't remember for sure, but I remember reading somewhere about the
  FI unit remmbering it's settings, using latent 12V power from the batt. at
  a REALLY low drain to keep them intact. By removing the fuse link you may 
  have caused it to "forget" it's settings. Thereby causing nasty running for
  a while until it could renew and restore them to "normal". An interesting
  test would be to discconnect them again and see if it happens again. I'm
  pretty sure the KE injections have this but I don't know about the A1
  K-type injections. The alternative would just be and unfitted contact pin
  that got contact after a heavy vibration(your quick acceleration...).
  I dunno, any comments????                  -Craig

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: tpaquette@ita.lgc.com (Trevor Paquette)
Subject: Re: 2 Problems with Corrado VR6
Organization: Landmark/ITA Inverse Theory and Applications
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 23:15:36 GMT

In article <AHMAD.92Nov20165129@ahmad.Warren.MENTORG.COM> ahmad@Warren.MENTORG.COM (Ahmad) writes:

>   I have been driving the VR6 for about a year now.
>   I love the car, especially those days when I smoke those Mustangs 5.0
>   on traffic lights.

>  1. The car rarely starts from the first time, unless its
>     been driven for a while and the engine is still very hot.
>     It never fails to start the second time. This is really
>     strange for a new car. It anyone experiencing the same
>     behavior?

	I have a G60 and cannot comment on this. Mine always starts first
	time.

>  2. It's a minor problem, but my digital clock falls behind a 
>     couple of minutes every week or two. Is this a factory
>     defect ? Should I have the clock replaced ?


      My clock always falls back about 5 mins each month. I told my dealer
 and they ordered a new one right away, no charge.

--
Name : Trevor Paquette       | Landmark/ITA             |  _\___ Fahrvergnugen
Email: tpaquette@ita.lgc.com | Calgary, Alberta, Canada | /     \____
Visitor from CyberSpace      | (403) 269-4669           |/ G60       \
Renegade of Virtual Reality  | #include <disclaimer.h>  |\-O------O--/
From: map@violet.berkeley.edu (Pollen Lab;103 ESB;38108;;NZ29)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Help! Put oil in a Bug, and it disappears!
Date: 20 Nov 1992 22:56:42 GMT
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
NNTP-Posting-Host: violet.berkeley.edu

In article <20NOV199213163645@cc.utah.edu> mgb5528@cc.utah.edu (MICHAEL G. BECK) writes:
>In article <1992Nov20.170103.11314@nntp.nta.no>, BARANSKI@veamf1.nusc.navy.mil (Jim Baranski) writes...

>{I've been putting a *lot* of oil into it recently, like a quart every fill up!
>{Yet it only smokes a little only when it starts up, and it isn't leaking.
>{ 
>{Where could the oil be going? The front seal was just replaced, and I've heard
>{that oil can leak into the clutch housing...
>
>I had that happen to me a couple of years ago in '71 Super Beetle.  One sure 
>way to tell if the oil is going into the clutch housing is if the clutch is 
>slipping at high rpm's going up a hill.

That's happening to my '69 Bug right now, which is one reason why I'm not
driving up to the Sierra to enjoy the snow this weekend.  But I'd like to
raise one small issue: the oil's *got* to get out sooner or later!!  Once
oil sprays all over the clutch, it should drip out at the front of the engine.
     (... the other reason I'm not driving the car right now--embarassing
pools of oil wherever I park...:-)

Eric Edlund
U.C.Berkeley Geography
eric@pollen1.berkeley.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: calypso@stein.u.washington.edu (Kent Shih)
Subject: Re: Timing belts and 16v engines
Organization: University of Washington
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 01:39:51 GMT

eu507dac@pts.mot.com (DOUG CHRISTENSEN X3915 P6818) writes:

>In article 110@mipps.myapc.com, haskins@mipps.myapc.com (Robert D. Haskins) writes:
>>I was told by a reputable service manager that the timing belts of VW 16-valve
>>engines need to be changed at 60k miles.  Has anyone had a timing belt go on
>>them this soon?  The service manager indicated that the belt is spec'ed only
>>to 60k miles.  I would think that VW would spec it for more like 100k miles.
>>
>>Is this guy telling the truth?  The vehicle in question happens to be a '90
>>Passat, but he indicated that it was the same for all VW 16-valve engines.
>>
>
>Better believe it.  16V heads go for about $1000.00 bare.  If the belt breaks,
>consider the head gone.  The belt is relatively cheap insurance and you should
>see some improved performance.  Armed with a Bentley manual, you may want to try
>changing it yourself.  It's kind of a pain with all the belts you need to remove.
>You may want to replace those also.
>
>I got about 15 races and 70K miles before I did mine, but I consider myself
>lucky.
>
>Doug Christensen,  SSB Scirocco

============================================================================

     Hi, I have a question for ya... On the average, how much does it cost
     to have the timing belt replaced by an independent volkswagon repair
     shop... and how much does it cost for the timing belt alone?   I have
     a 16V Scirocco and it has 56,000 miles on it, I am thinking about
     replacing the belt soon...

     By the way, would you know if I can have the cam shaft replaced without
     taking more things apart when changing the belt?  I am thinking about
     buying a new cam shaft(those high performance ones) and stick it in the
     engine to boost up the horsepower.  Does anyone have any suggestions
     to which ones are good, and if doing so may be good or bad to the
     engine?

     Doug, what does 'SSB Scirocco' mean?  :)


               -kent
From: danno@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Daniel Gary Soiney)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Info on Bus Campers - Buying Used
Date: 23 Nov 1992 20:18:00 GMT
Organization: Computing Services Division, University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
Distribution: na
NNTP-Posting-Host: 129.89.7.4

I wonder...if the diesel vanagons used diesel rabbit motors, wouldent an early
(a1) gti engine work, and are 16v motors also a possible swap?

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: squiec@vccnw12.its.rpi.edu (Craig L. Squier)
Subject: Re: Do insurance companies hate VWs?
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 17:50:57 GMT

In article <921114.231215.amiller@almaden.ibm.com> amiller@almaden.ibm.com (Alex Miller) writes:
>Why is it that VWs are so expensive to insure, relative
>to similar price, similar performance cars?  Do VW
>owners have a higher incidence of expensive claims?
>
>I'll be interested in seeing if the Golf/Jetta A3
>cars inherit the insurance record of the A2 cars,
>especially if they have air bags.
>
>Alex                        DISCLAIMER: yup, these are my opinions
>amiller@almaden.ibm.com

  Its not so much that insurance companies hate VW's, it's the fact that car
 thieves and stereo snaggers love them. VW's are a popular item to steal.
 The screwdriver ala door handle trick is one that my 4 yr. old bro can learn.
 BUY ARMOR DOOR PLATES. VW's are a car that is good to steal. THe parts are 
 usable on all different models of VW's. You can sell the stuff quickly.
 SO. When everybody is claiming losses on their VWs ie.: wheels, stereos,
 the whole car etc.. Then the ins. cos.  have to raise the premium so they
 can pay for it all. 
 If you don't want your pride and joy to become another statistic then:
 1) INSTALL ARMOR DOOR PLATES(again)
 2) GET A DECENT QUALITY ALARM
 3) DON"T GET ANY TICKETS(this helps too :) )
 4) SHOP AROUND FOR INSURANCE( if you qualify for GEICO then get it  :) )
 5) DON'T BE SO OBVIOUS ABOUT YOUR VALUABLE ACCESSORIES( and if you must then
    see items 1,2,and 3)
    HOKAY?????
 ANY COMMENTS ON THIS ARE COOL......
 LATER            >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>     - CRAIG

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mgm@royko.Chicago.COM (Marty Masters)
Subject: Predictable Intermittancy
Organization: Chicago Software Works
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 05:18:47 GMT

A friend has an 82 Rabbit with CIS fuel injection, and a points
type distributor.  The engine runs fine for 15-20 seconds, and loses
power, but still idles.  "Re-setting the system" by turning the 
ignition key off and on enables the car to run well for another
15-20 seconds.  He's replaced the cap, rotor, condenser & points 
so far without curing the ailment.  Any suggestions as to what he
should check out and in what order?  (he's already tested the 
fuel pump relay, and it is fine)

...Marty					mgm@royko.chicago.com
From: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Corrado Speedo Error
Date: 17 Nov 1992 22:40:08 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, dchill@sequent.com (Duncan Hill) says:

>Hi,
>
>I recently purchased a 90 Corrado with the BBS wheel upgrade
>and the 195 55 R 15 Sport Contacts.  I swear the speedometer
>is reading about 15 KM ( 9 miles ) per hour too fast.  I have
>paced by car with a friends GTI and this checks out.  I had
>the car in for service and had it checked, they said it is fine.
>The only way to be sure is to know factory specs for what
>the speed should be in a specific gear at a specific number
>if rpm's.  Does anyone have this info?  The dealer can't
>seem to provide it. Has anyone else experienced this same
>problem.  The tire size should not be an issue because the
>speed is measured at the drive shaft.  However, if the 
>speedometer was calibrated for 205mm tires and then the 195mm
>tires were put on it could cause some discrepency. My 
>calculations show that the 10mm difference in width translates
>into only a 5% difference in overall wheel circumference and
>therefore only a 5% difference in speed.  I am experiencing
>a 15Km/h error at 100km/h. Any ideas would be welcome.
>Thanks,
>
>Duncan Hill, Toronto, Canada
>dchill@gateway.sequent.com
>
>

dunno abt there, but here(USA) we have mile markers(obviously you will 
not have these, ubt maybe markers of a set distance??)..so..we just take
the car out, take it up to 60 miles an hour, and start the stopwatch
at one of themile markers..if your speedo is right at 60mph, then you
will be at the next mile marker in a minute...fairly simple, real cheap...
dunno if it'll work for you tho..just a suggestion.
DREW
-- 
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
?????????????????????????????????-----whatever!
From: amiller@almaden.ibm.com (Alex Miller)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Do insurance companies hate VWs?
Date: 16 Nov 1992 16:08:12 -0600
Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu

squiec@vccnw12.its.rpi.edu ( Craig L. Squier ) writes:

> 1) INSTALL ARMOR DOOR PLATES
> 2) GET A DECENT QUALITY ALARM
> . . .

Pretty soon GEICO may let me get ride of my comprehensive
coverage (the book value is pretty small snow anyway) and
I'll put the savings into an alarm system.

I like VW's but I can't see paying something like $1000/yr
insurance.  Well, I do my part to keep insurance prices
low - I haven't had a claim on my VW since I was broken
into in NYC in 1984.

Hey... I know this is the VW newsgroup, but what do people
think of a used MBZ 190E 85..86..87 years?

cheers,

Alex
amiller@almaden.ibm.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: BARANSKI@veamf1.nusc.navy.mil (Jim Baranski)
Subject: Re: Older Vdubs (Re: Do insurance companies hate VWs?
Organization: Naval Underwater Sound Center, New London CT
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 92 17:09:58 GMT
X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.20

My Insurance on my bug is dirt cheap.  300$ a year with Metropolitan.

Jim Baranski
From: cf947@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Chun-Hung Wan)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Corrado Body Styling (Was Re: Corrado VR6 or Golf VR6)
Date: 17 Nov 1992 06:50:36 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: cf947@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Chun-Hung Wan)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, apj@beldin.sun.ac.za (Andries Dippenaar) says:

>Trevor Paquette (tpaquette@ita.lgc.com) wrote:
>: In article <1dvnt7INN8fg@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> cf947@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Chun-Hung Wan) writes:
>: 
>:   I thought the body styling changed a bit already for 1992? The nose on the
>:  Corrado seems more 'stubby' (shorter)? Anyone else notice this?
>
>That's correct.  The nose had to be bulged slightly to accommodate the
>new VR6.  It's only really noticable when you are able to compare the
>pre- and post bulge models side by side.  I've seen a photograph in a
>UK (I think) magazine featuring both.
>
>Andries
>***********************************************************************
>*       /|~~\ * APJ Dippenaar        * "If you wanna make the world a *
>*     /__|__/ * apj@beldin.sun.ac.za *  better place, take a look at  *
>*   /    |    * Univ of Stellenbosch *  yourself and make a change."  *
>* /   \__|    * South Africa         *             -- Michael Jackson *
>***********************************************************************
>

The picture that I saw in Road & Track was of the new generation Corrado. 
It's based on the new Golf MkIII platform and the lines of the body are
much more rounded.  Dimensions are also bigger.  This new Corrado body is
due 1995.
-- 
A motion picture major at the Brooks Institute of Photography, CA
Santa Barbara and a foreign student from Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.

"The mind is the forerunner of all states."
From: dilmore@cray.com (Robert J. Dilmore)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: diesel Jetta
Date: 18 Nov 92 14:21:34 GMT
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.

In article <lkinsell.722090777@unix2.tcd.ie> lkinsell@unix2.tcd.ie (Liam Kinsella) writes:
>I have a slight problem on my `88 1.6 diesel Jetta. There is a line of
>grey on the underside of the bonnet that shouldn`t be there.
>The streak is on the right hand side of the bonnet about 6 inches in
>from the side and runs the length of the bonnet. It seems to come from
>just behind the radiator so I think that the hose to the resovoir is
>blocked and that when the engine heats up the coolant justs sprays all
>over the bonnet. The thing is that the streak is only on the bonnet and
>there is nothing on the engine itself.
>
  No problem. Don't worry, the accessory belts get wet and throw grease
and muck. If this bothers you or causes your power steering/alt belt to 
slip, go down to the dealership and have them install the free sheild to 
the underside of your car.

Robert
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: "tom neumann" <tom.neumann@canrem.com>
Subject: predictable intermitt
Reply-To: "tom neumann" <tom.neumann@canrem.com>
Organization: Canada Remote Systems
Distribution: rec
Date: 20 Nov 92 20:51:41 EST


Hi Marty!

MM>A friend has an 82 Rabbit with CIS fuel injection, and a points
MM>type distributor.  The engine runs fine for 15-20 seconds, and loses
MM>power, but still idles.  "Re-setting the system" by turning the
MM>ignition key off and on enables the car to run well for another
MM>15-20 seconds.

I'm not a mechanic, but I'd take a look at the fuel injection. When
you first start a CIS engine the cold start valve shoots an extra
shot into the manifold for 20 or 30 seconds. It might be that the
normal injection is not providing enough fuel and this is enough to
keep the engine running.

Tom Neumann
---
  DeLuxe 1.25 #350  I'm SO confused...
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw