HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: smogonek@larry.lerc.nasa.gov (Joseph Ogonek)
Subject: GM idle speed control problem
Followup-To: smogonek@larry.lerc.nasa.gov
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center [Cleveland, Ohio]
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1992 19:56:01 GMT

Help!

I have an 85 cutlass cruiser - V6-181, E2ME carb.

I am having a problem with the idle speed control.  When I release 
the gas pedal the idle speed control solenoid maintains its
position for 2-10+ secs.  I replaced the O2 sensor but the problem
persists.  Finally I disconnected the idle speed control and
the car seems to run okay - at least the idle speed stays low.

What should I look for as the cause of this problem??  a sensor 
or regulator?? or??

Thanks

Joe Ogonek - smogonek@larry.lerc.nasa.gov


-- 
....................................................................
   Joe Ogonek                               Analex Corp.
   smogonek@larry.lerc.nasa.gov             3001 Aerospace Parkway
   (216) 977-0025  FAX (216) 977-0200       Brook Park, OH  44142            
....................................................................
From: golder@homer.kodak.com (Patrick Golder)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: All-Wheel Drive/4x4 Questions.
Date: 28 Dec 92 20:14:19 GMT

|> ->      HOLD IT!! You mean there's a 440cid Mopar-powered AWD
|> ->      British car with a pile of luxury options? WOW!
|> ->
|> ->      ...Now, if you have any information about production
|> ->      numbers, books about that car (hmm, was Jensen Interceptor
|> ->      a coupe?) or _anything_ , please let me know.
|> ->
|> ->      Just got interested... ;-)
|> 
|>  Late 1960s.  Two or four door sedan, I think.  The Interceptor was the
|> plain RWD, the FF was the AWD.  There used to be an Interceptor running
|> around here locally.

Interceptors came in coupe (2-door) & convertible versions.  Jensen made
other cars - maybe you were thinking of one of those for the 4-door.  
I believe Interceptors were made well into the 70's.  The FF was a
real limited-production item on an already limited-production car.  The
cars were pretty heavy, so even 440 cubes didn't move them as fast as a
lot of modern performance cars.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: lmilbert@encore.com (Larry Milbert)
Subject: Help With 89 Honda Civic CV Joint Boot
Organization: Encore Computer Corporation
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 18:01:59 GMT
Summary: I have just finished replacing the CV Joint on my Civic
Keywords: CV Joint
From: jslee@nrtc.nrtc.northrop.com (John Lee <jslee>)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: AC Delco oil filters?
Date: 31 Dec 92 04:20:22 GMT
Reply-To: jslee@nrtc.nrtc.northrop.com (John Lee)
Distribution: usa

> pnelson@opus.Tymnet.COM (Phil Nelson) writes:
>
> I bought a PF13 because the K-Mart book had the wrong filter listed for
>my '90 LeBaron GT with the 3 liter V6 (they listed the same filter that the
>4 uses). It looks like it will fit, it is the same size as the FRAM PH16
>that I ordinarily use, although the AC box says it crosses to FRAM PH3963.

AC is the only filter I use, and that's on my GM, Toyota and Suzuki cars.
My friends use AC on their Jeep. FRAM is the one I stay away from.
They seem to be more cheaply built that AC-Delco ones. That's my opinion
after having used both.

Filters as it turns out are quite interchangable, and I have seen the
same part number crossing problems you describe. For example, a AC
PF53 on the AC box will cross to a FRAM PH-xx, but on the PH-xx box,
the cross comes back to a PF54. Then GM changed the spec on the Geo
Tracker from PF54 to PF1245. So we have PF53==PF54==PF1245.

The PF54 has a anti-drain back valve, the PF53 doesn't. The FRAM PH-xx
filter does NOT have the valve, but FRAM will claim it replaces a PF54,
which DOES have the valve.

Here are some other crosses, depending ONLY if there is physical room
for the larger filter. I always install the largest that will fit,
more media means more filtering. Ordered small to large physical size
(if different sized):
	PF25->PF35
	PF40->PF47->PF51->PF52
	PF53->PF54->PF1245

K-Mart has AC-Delco Oil filters on sale for $2; I bought 12 of each
size I use. The PF54 costs $7.99 at Pep Boys.
JSLee
From: mikec@hpgrla.gr.hp.com (Mike Christensen)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1992 05:36:54 GMT
Subject: Re: Re: DC Motor RFI, was Flywheel batteries as EV power source
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Greeley, CO
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

Consider the spring powered car.  Let's say we take a chunk of spring steel
and strain it to its limit (assume max stress of about 1400 N/mm^2or 200kpsi).
How large would this cube (for simplicity sake) need to be to store 400MJ as
the previous poster stated was required.  The energy in a spring is given by
the equation:  Energy = 0.5 K x^2
		K     = E A / L

		where E = modulus of elasticity (207,000 N/mm or 30 Mpsi)
		      A = area perpendicular to the strain (L^2 for a cube)
		      L = length of the spring

		x     = L (strain)

                so that for a cube
		Energy = 0.5 E (strain)^2 (L)^3

                strain = stress/E                            

		Energy = (0.5/E)(stress)^2 (L)^3

Now plug in the numbers

400,000,000,000 Nmm = (0.5/207000 N/mm^2)(1400 N/mm^2)^2 (L)^3

L = 4.388 m !!!

To store this kind of energy spring steel would require a cube with a
volume of 84.5 m^3 and would weigh 676,000 kg!  Not even close to something
practical.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rmorrow@afit.af.mil (Robert K Morrow)
Subject: Re: Sudden stalls in 83 Stanza...Freeway speed...Diagnosis apprecia
Organization: Air Force Institute of Technology
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 17:34:29 GMT

In article <BzGvFL.BAE@boulder.parcplace.com> gerber@boulder.parcplace.com (Andrew Gerber) writes:
>In article <1992Dec12.145922.23776@hawk.cs.ukans.edu> stubbs@hawk.cs.ukans.edu (Jerry Stubbs) writes:
>>
>>I had an '81 Stanza with very similar symptoms: stalled on highway,
>>tach sudden;y dropped to 0, even though the engine was in gear and
>>still turning, would cool off and run a bit more, I could cool it
>>faster by pouring solvent on the distributor.  It tourned out to be
>>the matchbooked sized module inside the distributor: $160 from 
>>the dealer. I think the car had 6x,000 miles on it. I think whatever
>>your problem is, it is probably on the ignition.
>
>Didn't see the original posting; same thing happned to my '83 stanza
>but more like at 110,000 miles.  Would "lose steam" at highway
>speeds, Thought it was the gas filter or gas pump, fuel pressure
>tests indicated otherwise.  Ended up getting a rebuilt distribitor 
>($200) rather than just the part, which my garage quoted at $250.

Stanzas of this era had dual plugs and an electronic ignition module
in the distributor with separate switching mechanisms for each plug
set.  These modules failed regularly, with the first symptom being
a reduction in power as one set of plugs would no longer fire, and
finally loss of ignition when the thing quit completely.  The problem
was that the ignition module was located in a hot area and usually
had no silicone grease between its heat sink and the mounting surface.
If you replace the module, get some of this grease from Radio Shack
and use it to increase the heat transfer out of the module - it
should last forever (198,000 miles on my '82 Stanza and no further
problems yet).

					Bob Morrow

Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:17219 rec.autos.sport:13209 rec.autos:30662 rec.autos.driving:7341
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.sport,rec.autos,rec.autos.driving
Subject: Re: Building Stockcars
From: gregb@netlink.cts.com (Greg Beron)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 92 09:18:39 PST
Organization: NetLink Online Communications, San Diego CA

Wayne_Redman@magicbb.uucp writes:

> know how to get in it.  I would love if Darrel Waltrip or (Richard Petty is m
> hero) or Rusty Wallace or somebody would give me the chance to race and turn 
> few laps to prove myself worthy.  Anyone out there listening or can help me
> out, I don't even have to run laps, I JUST WANT TO LEARN!!!!!!
> 

Have you considered PAYING?  There are a number of schools which will let 
you do exactly what you are *wishing* for.

For example, next weekend, I'll be going to the DriveTech school down here
in Southern California.  They run cars which are pretty much the same as 
the Winston Sportsman series.  The phone number is 800-678-8864, and a 
half day introductory course is only $195.00.

Other Stock Car schools include:
Finish Line Racing School in Florida:  904-427-8522
Team Texas Driving School:   713-977-5066

Or, if you really think they'll be so blown away by your performance that 
they'll sign you up on the spot, you might try the Fast Track Driving 
School at 704-455-1700.  They have a driver search where the fastest 
drivers (out of the dozens they test) get a full school and a ride in a 
race at the Thunderdome in Australia.

Good luck!

--                    
INTERNET:  gregb@netlink.cts.com (Greg Beron)
UUCP:   ...!ryptyde!netlink!gregb
NetLink Online Communications * Public Access in San Diego, CA (619) 453-1115
From: al@qiclab.scn.rain.com (Alan Peterman)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 100 000 miles at redline
Date: 21 Dec 92 19:00:27 GMT
Article-I.D.: qiclab.1992Dec21.190027.2622
Organization: SCN Research/Qic Laboratories of Tigard, Oregon.

In article <1h2vs0INN4m8@access.usask.ca> choy@skorpio.usask.ca (I am a terminator.) writes:
>A BMW ad claims their car (or was it just the engine?) was driven for
>at redline 100 000 miles straight. The engine showed no signs of wear.
>How does this compare to other cars? How does this compare to airliners?

Aircraft run their engines at or near redline all the time.  Piston engines
are designed for fairly low revs (2500-2800) and just run there for
about 1500-2000 hours which is about 250,000 miles.  Airline (turbine)
engines run about 3000-4000 hours which works out to  1.5 MILLION
miles at 3500x 350-400 mph..

>I wonder if BMW drove the car or if they just ran the motor. How fast
>would a BMW running at redline be if people had to drive 100 000 miles
>in top gear?

 If they said 100K miles, then I'd assume they drove a car - but not in
top gear, since most engines won't pull redline in top gear.  Still
it would probably be at 100+ mph, so it's a 1000 or so hour run.


-- 
Alan L. Peterman                                 (503)-684-1984 hm & work
                       al@qiclab.scn.rain.com
It's odd how as I get older, the days are longer, but the years are shorter!
From: vbreault@rinhp750.gmr.com (Val Breault)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Mopar 360 V-8 question
Date: 21 Dec 92 19:11:12 GMT
Organization: General Motors Research Labs
In-reply-to: Harry.Johnson@launchpad.unc.edu's message of 21 Dec 92 17:01:31 GMT

In article <1992Dec21.170131.23484@samba.oit.unc.edu> Harry.Johnson@launchpad.unc.edu (Harry Johnson) writes:

   I recently bought a very large vehicle equipped with the Chrysler 360 V-8. 
   My 1-ton Tradesman van doesn't have much original about it, but the engine
   and transmission are strong and (so far) dependable. 

I drive it's close cousin, the extended length window van.  It's your
basic 1 ton truck with a van body (floating axles, 16.5 inch wheels, etc.)

Mine has the 318 and a 4.10:1 rear axle.  It has been known to rock
and roll down the back roads at speeds well in excess of the "Freeway
Speeds" of years gone by.  It has ~220,000 miles and is just now beginning
to complain.  If I don't change a thing about the way I maintain or drive
it, I may have to do an overhaul by the time it hits 300,000.

   I kind of have the willies about driving the van at highway speeds,
   though.  I don't know what a reasonable top running speed for prolonged
   (120 miles or more) trips is and don't want to wear out the engine really
   fast.  I have rather arbitrarily set a limit for myself of 2700-2800 rpm
   for continuous freeway driving.

Don't worry.  With reasonable care the engine is good for a couple hundred
thousand miles, irrespective of the speed at which it's driven.  (Within
reasonable limits, of course....  You may have cooling problems at 
sustained speeds above 100 mph for example.  But you were just asking 
about 55 mph weren't you?)

After the first dozen or two, it really doesn't matter how many miles
you drive.  In fact, highway driving is MUCH gentler on your vehicle 
than driving anywhere else.

--
-val-

Val Breault - GM Research - vbreault@gmr.com - N8OEF            \      /|
Instrumentation dept., 30500 Mound Rd., Warren, MI 48090-9055    \    / |
The opinions expressed by the author do not necessarily reflect   \  /__|
those of GMR or those of the General Motors Corporation.           \/   |___
 

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: TX_WAYNE@rrivax.rri.uwo.ca (Wayne Johnson)
Subject: Re: Nissan Maxima Transmission
X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.20
Organization: Robarts Research Institute
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1992 16:21:00 GMT

In <1992Dec29.220622.3334@balrog.dseg.ti.com> keith@balrog.dseg.ti.com writes:

> In article <9212280134.aa14948@Bonnie.ics.uci.edu> dpark@Bonnie.ICS.UCI.EDU writes:
> >
> >I own a 1987 Nissan Maxima with 87000 miles.  When my engine is 
> >cold(usually morning), the automatic transmission does not shift to third 
> >gear.  It is only after about a mile later when the car is warmed up that 
> >it finally shifts to third and fourth gears.  After the initial difficult 
> >shift, the car shifts to the third and fourth gears without any difficulty.
> >
> >Is this something to be concerned about? Or is this common among older 
> >transmissions and something I should live with?
> >
> 	I don't know alot about automatics, but my Maxima (87 75K) is the same
> 	way.  It doesn't take a mile to warm up, but may take a couple of
> 	blocks to get into 3rd.  
> 

Are you certain it isn't the OVERDRIVE that's not kicking in when the
tranny is cold?  My '90 Nissan Stanza can take up to 5 miles on really cold
mornings before going into o/d.  When it does, it's not unlike going from
2nd to 3rd gear.  You can tell it's the O/D because clicking the O/D button
on and off has no effect.

According to my dealer this is normal for my Stanza (tho I've never driven
any other vehicle that behaves this way).  It's done it since it was new. 
It's a bit of an annoyance, tho, as I live in the country so I'm travelling
along at 60mph within 30 seconds of leaving my driveway.  The engine loudly
roars away at 3500rpm for a few minutes every morning until the o/d finally
kicks in.

Perhaps this is a "feature" of all Nissans with O/D automatics.

< Wayne Johnson                         The John P. Robarts Research Institute >
< Database Programmer                   Clinical Trials Resources Group        >
< "w.johnson@ctrg.rri.uwo.ca"           London, Ontario, Canada                >
<        Disclaimer: "Nope.  Wasn't Me.  I never said any such thing."         >
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: zm@cbnewsb.cb.att.com (Zafer Mehmood)
Subject: Timing chain replacement
Summary: Timing chain replacement on Mitsu 2.6 requires pulling the head?
Organization: AT&T
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1992 22:53:18 GMT

	Does anyone know if the cylinder head needs to be removed to
replace the timing chains on the Mitsubishi 2.6 liter engine? 

(May be its a dumb question - it might have to be taken off on all engines
- this is the first time I'll be replacing timing chains. I have replaced
a timing belt on a '82 Dodge Colt. I do have the Shop Manual but it doesn't
give details of removing the front cover. So, please don't flame.)

Details are:
The car is a '84 Mitsubishi Starion Turbo with 112K miles. The 2.6 liter
engine has been used in other cars - Mitsu light trucks and Chrylser products
(Conquest, Plymouth Voyager/Dodge Caravan).

This engine has two chains - one for the timing cam, other for the two
counter-rotating balance shafts and oil pump. The front cover is secured
on the top by two bolts that go through the cylinder head and at the bottom
by the oil pan. What concerns me is that the gasket between the top of
the front cover and the head is just an extension of the cylinder head
gasket, i.e, it appears to be a single gasket, and I am afraid of
the gasket being damaged as I remove the front cover (of course I'll drop
the oil pan first). 

The timing chain has 8 to 9 degrees of slack and the engines vibrates at
idle (counter-rotating balance shafts out of sync due to chain stretch?).
There's nothing wrong with the engine otherwise and I don't want to take
out the valve-train and head if its not necessary.

Has any one done this job and can give me any suggestions and or pointers?
Response via email is preferable. Thanks in advance. 

Zafer Mehmood
zm@mhcnet.att.com
---
From: jerryk@col.hp.com (Jerry Kinsley)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Madness due to carb backfire
Date: 31 Dec 1992 07:29:57 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division
NNTP-Posting-Host: la.col.hp.com



Try raising the primary float a little, like 1/16" intervals.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ming@enel.ucalgary.ca (Yang Ming)
Subject: Re: How do you remove frozen, stripped screws?
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 92 22:29:49 GMT
Organization: ECE Department, U. of Calgary, Calgary, Alberta, Canada

In article <4189@eastman.UUCP> golder@homer.kodak.com (Patrick Golder) writes:
>In article <1992Dec15.163308.28087@wdl.loral.com>, csk@wdl50.wdl.loral.com (Chuck Kuczaj) writes:
>|> I've tried penetrating oil, heat, hammers, and other things, but the
>|> basic problem is still the fact that one can't exert enough force on
>|> a stripped screw.  Is there any kind of special tool, which when
>|> "clamped-on" to the exposed screw head, allows for the exertion of much
>|> greater torque?  Obviously, I've tried using the "vice-grip method".
>|> What I'm looking for is a more optimal solution.
>
>The best one I ever heard is to weld a rod on the top of what's left
>of the stud so that it is T-shaped.  Then you have a handle with some
>leverage.  Of course, you need the welding equipment to do this.

Another way I have heard is to use impact screw driver. You use a hammer to
hit the head of it, which converts the impact into turning force. Since
the tip of the impact screw driver is on the screw, the tool gives a 
hold down force on the screw head as well as turns it.

Let me know if it works. Good luck.

Ming

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: neal@cmptrc.lonestar.org (Neal Howard)
Subject: Re: STUCK CARB, AIRBORNE! Wheel Came Off...
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 23:08:22 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: CompuTrac Inc., Richardson TX

>In article <1g04jtINN3k2@roche.csl.sri.com> lbrown@cisco.com (Lawrence Brown) writes:
>>
>>I was late for work, barreling down a country road at around 60mph.
>>About a 1/4 mile from the highway the road goes over a steep blind hill.
>>
>>I'm driving a '69 Chevy Impala, 350engine with 4-barrel carb, Auto, Power
>>Steering...  
>	[stuff deleted]
>> I floor the pedal. The 4-barrel carb opens wide and the engine roars. I start 
>>to let off the gas about halfway up the hill and discover the throttle
>>is stuck wide open.
>>

On a lot of GM full size cars of this vintage (and later, ending with ~1977)
this commonly can happen if the motor mounts are shot, especially the one
on the drivers side of the car. The torque of the engine (when pedal floored)
is enough to raise the engine up a few inches out of the broken motor mount
which puts the throttle linkage in a bind. I had a '74 Pontiac Grandville
with a 455 as my first car and with the hood up, left foot firmly on the
brake pedal, and flooring the gas, the engine would lift up about 3-4 inches
out of the drivers side motor mount and the throttle would hang. Replacing the
motor mounts and the tranny crossmember mount fixed this problem. Later I had
a 1975 Olds Cutlass Supreme with a 350 4bbl and when its motor mounts gave out,
it would lift the engine just like the old Pontiac did but the throttle cable
would not bind as the other car did. In addition to the engine bouncing around
in shot motor mounts, the Olds also had a terrible driveline vibration that
worsened at hightway speeds.... just like shot U-joints, but new mounts also 
fixed the vibration problem and after that it was the best car I had ever owned.
Too bad it was totally worn out after 175K + miles, I really liked that car.

-- 
=============================================================================
Neal Howard   '91 XLH-1200      DoD #686      CompuTrac, Inc (Richardson, TX)
	      doh #0000001200
         "Let us learn to dream, gentlemen, and then perhaps
          we shall learn the truth." -- August Kekule' (1890)
=============================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ravalent@mothra.syr.EDU (Bob Valentine)
Subject: Re: Spark Plug Question...
Organization: Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 92 23:09:07 EST

In article <6663.196.uupcb@yob.sccsi.com> donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel)  writes:
>Hi,
>        Difference is the gap of the electrodes. And you were told
>        wrong. The xls-6m has a wider gap than the xls. A wider gap
>        means a hotter/ more intense spark and thus more complete
>        combustion, which translates to better milage.
>                                                        Don

   That is, of course, if your ignition can put out enough juice 
to jump the gap.  Too wide a gap will LOOSE power and mileage.  
   If you're really into it, "index" the plug.  This refers to the process 
of making sure that the gap faces into the combustion chamber.  Do 
this by putting a mark on the plug opposite the gap.  Screw it in,
and if the mark does not face away from the piston, you can get
washers from the local speed shop to make the plug aim into the
cylinder.  It's supposidly worth doing, but I never noticed any 
difference.

________________________________________________________________________
\ The name:            -->   Bob Valentine  <--                        /
/ The address:      --> ravalent@mailbox.syr.edu <--                   \ 
\                                                                      /
/ The ride: --> 71 Olds Cutlass Convertible: 350/T400/Posi (soon!) <-- \
\______________________________________________________________________/    
    



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: zm@cbnewsb.cb.att.com (Zafer Mehmood)
Subject: Re: STUCK CARB, AIRBORNE! Wheel Came Off...
Keywords: My Brother Told Me To Post This
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 22:51:36 GMT

In article <1g04jtINN3k2@roche.csl.sri.com> lbrown@cisco.com (Lawrence Brown) writes:
>
>I was late for work, barreling down a country road at around 60mph.
>About a 1/4 mile from the highway the road goes over a steep blind hill.
>
>I'm driving a '69 Chevy Impala, 350engine with 4-barrel carb, Auto, Power
>Steering...  
	[stuff deleted]
> I floor the pedal. The 4-barrel carb opens wide and the engine roars. I start 
>to let off the gas about halfway up the hill and discover the throttle
>is stuck wide open.
>
>Now, in hindsight the smart thing would have been to just turn off the engine.
>(Ever try to steer a Chevy with the power steering turned off? Right.)
>
> [story about using brakes to stop car and breaking axle deleted]
>
	Whenever I read stories about runaway cars with stuck throttle 
plate/cable or cruise mechanisms, I wonder why the transmission cannot 
be shifted into neutral to disengage the engine from the drive-train.
Yes, the engine can over-rev causing damage but that's a cheap price
to pay compared to the risk of collision and bodily injury. In a couple
of automatics that I've tried, I was able to shift into neutral even while
accelerating. Manual transmissions, on the other hand won't shift into
neutral while accelerating (at least not easily), but then you can use
the clutch to disengage the engine from the transmission.

Aside from the driver panicking and not having the presence of mind,
is there a reason why this can not be done? Am I missing something?

Zafer
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech