HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: hhtra@usho72.hou281.chevron.com (T.M.Haddock)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Alarm for carjacking
Date: 12 Nov 92 22:09:05 GMT
Organization: Chevron

In article <1992Nov12.005459.24362@oracle.us.oracle.com>, jpau@oracle.com writes:
|> Does anyone has any suggestion for any addons to your existing 
|> alarm system to take care of the now getting popular carjacking 
|> problem?

 In a past issue of CAE (?), they had a comparison of the anti-
 carjacking devices currently available.  I don't believe any
 were "add-ons" but were separate alarm systems. Basically, they
 broke down into two camps:

    Active - requires the driver to hit a hidden switch during
             the carjacking to active the alarm which either 
             immediately or delay's the engine kill and siren.
             For obvious reasons, the immediate action mode was
             not recommended.

    Passive - activates automatically if car door is opened
              while keys in the ignition and turned to ON but
              not necessarily requiring the engine to be running.
              These would delay any action from 15 seconds to 
              1 minute, then start a countdown beeping for about
              15 seconds, then kills the engine and sounds the 
              siren.  The beeping delay gives you time to 
              deactivate the alarm via a hidden switch.  Some
              systems also offered activation via remotes 
              such as Alpine's and another offered a paging
              system - just dial the local paging system
              and dial in the alarm's pager number and the
              alarm is triggered.

    In all systems, hidden switches and/or codes would deactivate
    and/or reset the alarm and disable engine kill and siren.

 Sorry, I don't remember the brand names or prices off-hand.
 I'll look them up.  But, I don't think they were any more
 expensive that regular alarm systems.

 TRAVIS
From: rslau@usc.edu (Robert Lau)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: test
Date: 13 Nov 1992 21:34:28 -0800
Organization: University of Southern California, USA
NNTP-Posting-Host: tarazed.usc.edu
In-reply-to: fabela@tibet.Berkeley.EDU's message of Fri, 13 Nov 1992 18:48:17 GMT

In article <1992Nov13.184817.3078@sunova.ssc.gov> fabela@tibet.Berkeley.EDU (George Fabela) writes:

   From: fabela@tibet.Berkeley.EDU (George Fabela)
   Organization: Superconducting Super Collider Laboratory
   Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 18:48:17 GMT

   Testing 1,2,3 BOOM BOOM

That George's car going BOOM when he decided to power it off the
Superconducting Super Collider.  Damn quarks.  :)

-- 
Robert Lau - Systems Programmer, Unix Systems     213-740-2866
--  University Computing Services                 Internet: rslau@usc.edu
--  University of Southern California             Bitnet:   rslau@uscvm
--  1020 W Jefferson, LA, CA  USA, 90089-0251     UUCP:     ...!uunet!usc!rslau
From: fuzzy@sage.cc.purdue.edu (Fuzzy)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: starter ideas wanted
Date: 6 Nov 92 15:41:16 GMT
Article-I.D.: mentor.BxAwwu.n10
Distribution: na
Organization: Purdue University


ok....i'm looking for suggestions for a starter receiver/tapedeck for my
recently purchased car....i have a general idea of what i'm looking for,
and how much i want to spend, but i need ideas on what brands and models 
to look at...
anyway...i'm looking for something that's not too expensive, but that i 
can expand with...somewhere in the $200-230 price range (if possible)...
a pullout is definately a plus...almost required....i'd like something 
that i can hook external amps up to, and, and extra speakers, if the 
urge hits...i'm not too up on power specs, so i don't know how much 
power it takes to get a decent amount of sound...but some of the one's 
i've been looking at are something like 8W, peak at 16 or something 
like that...the current leader is a JVC (they any good) that i saw in
crutchfield (doesn't mean i'll order from them) for $230....oh yeah...it's
going into an '86 s-10 blazer, which currently has a factory radio (no
tape deck, so i'm dropping it) so it needs to fit in there...i know 
crutchfield claims they'll send me ALL the bits i need, including i guess
a faceplate to make the whole thing look nice...that's something else i
want...most or all of the little 'goodies' to get the job done...don't want
to order it and then have to spend another $30 on extra bits...

so...any suggestions?  i don't really want pioneer or sony (don't like 'em)
or anything that's going to be hard to have serviced if it ever needs it...
also...any suggestions of where to look for something?  local shops are kinda
expensive, so i'll probably mail-order...

so...send me your suggestions (no follow-up's please...bandwidth and all...)
i'm looking forward to getting started on this...

thanks,
greg

Fuzzy
--

Passion:  A feeling you feel when you feel you are about to feel a 
          feeling you've never felt before.

fuzzy@sage.cc.purdue.edu
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: gilchr@ee.ualberta.ca (Andrew Gilchrist)
Subject: dB explained.  Read it and weep.
Organization: University Of Alberta, Edmonton Canada
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 09:01:20 GMT

walkerr@bigwpi.WPI.EDU (Robert A Walker) writes:

>In article <gilchr...> gilchr@ee.ualberta.ca (Andrew Gilchrist) writes:

>>That gives your -3dB points at 100Hz and 200Hz respectively (approx.)

>	Please excuse my ignorance, but what exactly does -3db mean, what does
>-12db mean, which one is better, or is it a matter of personal preference,
>I know what a db is but i though that the more decibles (sp?) the louder it
>was,  am i lost or what?  

Okay.  Fair question.  I used that terminology since everyone here seems to
use it.

dB (note, capital B) is the unit used for power ratios.  3dB is a power
ratio of 2.  -3dB is a power ratio of 1/2. 10dB gives 10.

As you may have noticed, 3+1/3 times 2 is not 10.
dB is a logarithmic scale.  The ratio is 10^(dB/20).
Thus, 1dB = 1.122
      2dB = 1.259
      3dB = 1.413
	 ...
     10dB = 3.162

Now, looking at these numbers, you say:
"Whoa!  You said 3dB was a ratio of 2, now you say it is a ratio of 1.413!
 What gives?"
These are both true.  Before, I said 3dB was a POWER ratio of 2.  Power is
proportional to the SQUARE of the voltage, which is what the 3dB refers
to in this case.  Thus, 1.413^2 = 2.
Thus, the -3dB point (also called the half power point) is the frequency
at which the power delivered to the load is 1/2 the maximum power
delivered to the load for a given input amplitude.  At this frequency,
the voltage at the load is 1/1.413 (.708) times the max.

For Sound Pressure Level measurements, dB is used because of the very
wide range of acoustic power the human ear can resolve.
Now, we know that a SPL of 70dB has has 10 times the acousitc power of
an SPL of 60dB, and 100 times the power of 50dB, ... and 10 000 000 times
the acoustic power of 0dB.  Which means exactly what?

Well, the boys in charge of making up standards decided that 0dB would
refer to the smallest acoustic power than can be detected by the human
ear.  Presto.  So if the SPL in you car is 90dB, you are experiencing
sound that is 1 billion times as powerful as the faintest sound possible
to hear.  Pretty impressive, huh?

Hope this clears some confusion.

Andrew
From: madlemta@NeXTwork.Rose-Hulman.Edu (Troy A Madlem)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Rockford subs specs
Date: 12 Nov 1992 00:34:58 GMT
Organization: Computer Science Department at Rose-Hulman
Reply-To: madlemta@NeXTwork.Rose-Hulman.Edu (Troy A Madlem)
NNTP-Posting-Host: o231-24.nextwork.rose-hulman.edu


	A while back someone posted the specs for a lot of the subs.   
I am currently trying to design a new box for a pair of 12" Rockford  
series 1 subs.  I plan on making it a fourth or fifth order box.  I  
would appreciate if someone could send me the specs for this sub.  If  
you have have any experience with this sub I would also like to hear  
from you.  Thanks in advance.

Troy Madlem

madlemta@nextwork.rose-hulman.edu


-- NewsGrazer, a NeXTstep(tm) news reader, posting --
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`
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: robb@ais.org (Robert Gonyer)
Subject: Pioneer Poly
Organization: UMCC
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 04:39:03 GMT

Hi.  I have a chance to get a deal on some 12" Pioneer Poly woofers.
They are 6 ohm.  Here are the Specs:

Frequence Response: 25-1500HZ
Sensitivity 93 db 1w/1m
VAS: 10.8 cu ft
QTS: .166
QMS: 2.75
QES: .177
100 Watt RMS, 145 Watt max
2" voice coil

$35.50 each  Sound like a good deal?
What Id like to do, is buy 4 of these, run 2 in parallel on each channel
of my 2 channel Sherwood BP1240Q (100x2) amp in a sealed box.  What 
do you guys think about this?  Would it do better than my 2 Kicker
10"ers that are in a prefab Kicker SS-10 box?  (full range, 2 horns
2 mids, 2 10"s)  
Also. I would REALLY appreciate it if someone could figure out how 
much internal volume from the paramaters given above for a sealed
box.  Unless you think ab ported enclosure would be better.
All comments welcome.
Thanks

-- 
/~~~~~~///~|~~~~~~~~~* 5.0 Ford Mustang II *~~~~~~~|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~\
\  \\\///  |  Stillwater Design-Pioneer-Infinity   |                         /
/   \XX/   |   Aiwa-Cerwin Vega!-Sherwood-Technics | robb@141.211.206.16    /
\__Amiga!__|_______________________________________|_______________________/ 
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: jsc52962@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Jeffrey S. Curtis)
Subject: Re: capacitors
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 19:53:35 GMT

In article <1doqcvINN8js@bigboote.WPI.EDU> walkerr@bigwpi.WPI.EDU (Robert A Walker) writes:
}In article <gilchr.721389283@ee.ualberta.ca> gilchr@ee.ualberta.ca (Andrew Gilchrist) writes:
}>That gives your -3dB points at 100Hz and 200Hz respectively (approx.)
}
}	Please excuse my ignorance, but what exactly does -3db mean, what does
}-12db mean, which one is better, or is it a matter of personal preference,
}I know what a db is but i though that the more decibles (sp?) the louder it
}was,  am i lost or what?  

The -3dB refers to the "cutoff rate" of the crossover.  It's the amount
of filtering per octave that the crossover performs.  The crossover can't
actually just block *everything* below a certain point - it just slowly
cuts it off.  A 3 decibals-per-octave slope is not very effective - it
means that one octave below your crossover point, the music in that
frequency range will sound half as loud as at the crossover point itself
(well, other factors like apparent relative dB @ frequency notwithstanding).

Better crossovers - ones that include not just a single capacitor; rather,
a collection of capacitors and inductors - will give you better slopes,
sometimes up to -18dB/octave.  I think I might have seen one once that
offered -24dB/octave, but I might have been dreaming at the time.

Jeff
-- 
Jeffrey S. Curtis sidewinder@uiuc.edu | "Resplendent and full again, they revel
 The Power of 37  free2207 at uiucvmd | in their role as self-appointed critics
"To be great is to be misunderstood." | of the establishment..."
"Insist on yourself - never imitate." |   -- INXS _Welcome to Wherever You Are_
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: gilchr@ee.ualberta.ca (Andrew Gilchrist)
Subject: Re: capacitors
Organization: University Of Alberta, Edmonton Canada
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 09:54:43 GMT

walkerr@bigwpi.WPI.EDU (Robert A Walker) writes:

>Does anyone out there know what size capacitor i should use to cut out 
>the frequencies below about 100 or 200 htz?

I'm back. Heh heh heh.

Robert, this depends on the rest of the circuit.  If this is intended as
a crossover component in series with a tweeter of 8 ohms impedance,
I'd say about: 200 to 100 uF

That gives your -3dB points at 100Hz and 200Hz respectively (approx.)

Andrew
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: yystg@lims02.lerc.nasa.gov (STEVE GRAHAM)
Subject: Re: Suitable Capacitor?
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
Date:  5 Nov 1992 09:21 EST  

In article <gilchr.720958980@ee.ualberta.ca>, gilchr@ee.ualberta.ca (Andrew Gilchrist) writes...
>brian@hopi.eel.ufl.edu (Brian Gentry) writes:
>>In article <gilchr.720422686@ee.ualberta.ca>, (Andrew Gilchrist) writes:
>>[...]
>>|> 47000 uF should work ok.  You should wire this up at the load end (by the
>>|> amplifier).  Since this cap is likely a huge polarized electrolytic, make
>>|> sure you put in another smaller capacitor in parallel (like a 10 uF
>>|> tantalum cap, or something).
> 
>>I am aware that in CROSSOVERS some people use a "high quality" capacitor 
>>in parallel with an electrolytic because of the non-linear qualities of
>>electrolytics, but I have never heard of this in a power supply filtering
>>application.  Why would you suggest doing this? 
> 
>I suggest this because it is a very good idea.  Also, it has nothing to do
>with "non-linear" qualities of electrolytics.  It is because of the way
>electrolytics (particularly LARGE ones) are constructed.  It gives them
>a noticable series inductance.  High frequencies are rejected by this.
                                 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>Thus the need for higher frequency bypass capacitors (small caps).
>Why have you never heard of such a thing in a power supply application?
>Do you know ANYTHING about power supplies?  Gadzooks, even the
>Radio-SHack introduction to electronics book (the one with all the
>happy faces on the electrons) tells you to put a small bypass capacitor
>across the power pins of all ICs.
> 
>Every schematic for any linear regulator I've ever seen instructs the use
>of a secondary small capacitor in parallel with the big one.
> 
>Stop reading audio magazines and thinking they know what they're
>talking about.

They are talking about DC current.  Please explain to me the need to pass 
high frequencies, or any frequency, for that matter.  I must be missing 
something.

S. Graham
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: pyuen@qualcomm.com (Patrick Yuen)
Subject: Re: add CD player to NISSAN Maximum ?
Organization: Qualcomm, Inc., San Diego, CA
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 17:53:28 GMT

In article <1992Nov6.185059.8265@iplmail.orl.mmc.com>, hammond@ais1.bal.mmc.com (Greg Hammond) writes:
..
> CD player for your car.  You will also need to purchase a standard 
> mounting kit, if you currently do not have a stereo in your vehicle.  One
> last thing you will DEFINITELY need is a Nissan Car Stereo Wire Harnass.
> 
> The wire harnass will have the necessary connectors to attach your current
> stereo interface connections from your existing stereo to your new
> CD player.  Without the wire harnass, you would need to cut the one off
> of your factory radio (if it has one), which wouldn't make it that easy
> to reinstall the original factory radio if you sell/trash your car
> later.
> 
..

I have a '91 240SX with the factory radio and have been watching
this "add a CD" thread with interest.  How much should I expect to 
pay for this wiring harness?  Do I just call the dealer and say
"Send me a harness?"  Do I need to get more specific than that?
Would the harness be all I need or would I still need to do some
cutting and splicing?  Would it be very difficult to kluge my own 
creation as a harness?  I am semi-handy with electronics and tools
but no expert.

Thanks in advance.

Pat
pyuen@qualcomm.com
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: mgarber@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Max D Garber)
Subject: Re: Alarm for carjacking
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 15:52:12 GMT

The above sounds good, but if the car is running and the keys are in it, 
isn't your remote dangling from the steering column??
-- 
THE HYPEMAN.
1983 Pontiac 2000 SE   1983 Honda Nighthawk 650   DECEMBER 12,1992
   "BABY BOOOM"             MINT CONDITION         "TIE THE KNOT"
 'SYSTEM FOR SALE'      "FOR SALE"-Best Offer!     ^^Any Advice?^^
From: MICHAELB@UCF1VM.BITNET (Michael `Anti-Microsoft' Brunetti)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: 1 Farad Capacitor availability
Date: 11 Nov 92 21:50:06 GMT
Organization: University of Central Florida--Computer Services



In article <11NOV199211095879@rosie.uh.edu>, st1q9@rosie.uh.edu (Devine, Della
M) says:
>
>   Right now i'm looking in the new Pasco Scientific Physics catalog and
>they have for sale a 1 farad capacitor for roughly $19.00.
>The problem is is that it is a 5 volt and not a 12-20 volt as needed for
>automotive use.  Does anybody have any idea how to get a 5volt to work
>with 12-15 volts?  If so then these would be a lot cheaper than the
>800,000 microfarad that 2000 sells for $125.00...
>
>                                   William C. Devine, II
>reply to: Devine@pvhep.pvamu.edu
>
Not possible, but hey.... What is the largest 15-20volt cap available there
You can run smaller ones in parallel to get the effective capacitance.
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: jreiser@scott.skidmore.edu (Jason Reiser... Asleep)
Subject: Re: I NEED ISOBARIC BOX HELP
Organization: Skidmore College, Saratoga Springs NY
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 07:18:16 GMT

milo@dorm.rutgers.edu (james mielo) writes:
> 
> 					I need help in building an isobaric enclosure, however , this
> enclosure is unlike any that I've seen previously. Usually, an isobaric
> enclosure is made to decrease the Vas parameter and allow a smaller
> enclosure to be used. What makes my box concept different is that there is
> no second enclosure to load the subs.(the first enclosure being between the
> two subs). The second enclosure is usually ported or sealed. In my design,
> the woofers share a common sealed cabinet with the woofers facing 90
> degrees off axis from one another. The woofer facing the floor has its
> output channeled to the same direction as the foward facing woofer. This
> design works effectively on Velodyne and M&K home subs, will it work in a
> car?
> 
> 
> 					What kind of woofers would be appropriate?     
> 
> James Mielo
> Rutgers College of Pharmacy '94
> milo@dorm.rutgers.edu

What you describe is not an isobaric design.  It is an acoustic
coupled push-pull design.  Basically, this is the same (as far as
design parameters are concerned) as a normal acoustic coupled design
where both woofers share an airspace.  This is done by designing the
box (in this case a sealed one as you stated I believe, though you
could also apply it to a ported one...) as if you had only one woofer
with twice the given Vas.  This speaker will yield a 3db increase in
SPL, not the usual -3db for an isobaric design.

As for one woofer facing in, and one out... this design yields
decreased distortion since the drivers are out of phase with each
other.  As for the actual location on the box (which walls) I don't
believe that it has any effect on the design of the enclosure.

Hope that helps...

				- Jason

-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------
\ Jason A. Reiser  \ Send E-Mail to jreiser@scott.skidmore.edu \
 \ Skidmore College \ Saratoga Springs, NY 12866 \ 518-581-6580 \  
  \ It's a new Ice Age!  Hooray!!  Sled City!  - Calvin & Hobbes \
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: gilchr@ee.ualberta.ca (Andrew Gilchrist)
Subject: Re: Suitable Capacitor?
Organization: University Of Alberta, Edmonton Canada
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 09:59:01 GMT

kmr4@po.CWRU.edu (Keith M Ryan) writes:

>	I thought the topic was external capacitors, e.g. on the 12 volts DC 
>line. In that case, having an higher frequency impedence would actually help 
>keep alternator whine and the like out. I can fully understand the need for 
>such on the internal capacitors for the switching supplies, but for pure DC?

AAAAAAAAAARRRRGGGGGGGHHHHH!
YOU PUT THE CAPACITOR ACROSS THE POWER RAILS.  FROM +12V to GROUND.
Got it?
If you have a large series inductance with the capacitor, the high
frequency components will NOT be absorbed by it.

If you put a cap in series with the 12V line, it will not pass anything
BUT high prequencies. i.e. NO POWER.

You people.
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: robb@ais.org (Robert Gonyer)
Subject: CV box
Organization: UMCC
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 20:27:56 GMT

Hi!  I have a Kicker SS-10 box running at 4 ohms.  Im contemplating
selling this and buying 2 CV 12" Dual voice coil drivers, paralleling
the coils on each driver, thus giving me a 2 ohm per channel load,
effectively doubling my wattage.  Is this assumption correct?
-Robb

-- 
/~~~~~~///~|~~~~~~~~~* 5.0 Ford Mustang II *~~~~~~~|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~\
\  \\\///  |  Stillwater Design-Pioneer-Infinity   |                         /
/   \XX/   |   Aiwa-Cerwin Vega!-Sherwood-Technics | robb@141.211.206.16    /
\__Amiga!__|_______________________________________|_______________________/ 
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: revelos@ils.nwu.edu (J. Revelos)
Subject: REQUEST: VW Jetta upgrade advice
Organization: ILS at NU
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 03:48:05 GMT

I recently got a Heidelberg 8 stereo stolen out of my '91 VW Jetta. 
Luckily, because factory VW stereos are so overpriced, my insurance gave me
a few dollars to play with.  I decided on getting a car alarm (so this
won't happen again, or worse, they take the car next time), and a removable
CD player.  I chose a Blaupunkt ASPEN.  It sounds great, but it clearly
shows the limitations of my factory speakers (6 speaker system); highs seem
OK, but they just can't handle the bass.

I'm wondering if someone could give me some advice on how to get the most
out of the unit without getting too out of hand with the cost of upgrading.
 I'm mainly looking for advice about a)should I only upgrade the speakers? 
All of them?  Should I get an amp too?  How powerful?  What brand (speakers
and amps)?  Is a subwoofer overkill for a car?

I can't do this all at once for financial reasons, so priorities with the
suggestions would be greatly appreciated. 
Thanks!
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: yystg@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov (Steve Graham)
Subject: Re: CV box
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
Date:  6 Nov 1992 14:46 EST  

In article <Bx9FIM.3rs@ais.org>, robb@ais.org (Robert Gonyer) writes...
>Hi!  I have a Kicker SS-10 box running at 4 ohms.  Im contemplating
>selling this and buying 2 CV 12" Dual voice coil drivers, paralleling
>the coils on each driver, thus giving me a 2 ohm per channel load,
>effectively doubling my wattage.  Is this assumption correct?
>-Robb

I don't know what the SS-10 box is, but I am assuming it presents two 4 ohm 
loads which you are running with your 2 channel amp.

If this is the case, you will get double the wattage with the dual voice 
coil drivers in parallel off of each channel, assuming your amp will double 
into a 2 ohm load, or even handle the 2 ohm load.

A better solution, unless you require stereo subs, is to purchase two 8 
ohm drivers and run them in parallel off of you amp if your amp is capable 
of being bridged.  This should be cheaper than dual voice coil subs.

Hope this helps.

S. Graham