HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: starkie@eddore.trl.oz.au (Brad Starkie)
Subject: Winter Cherry/Jerusalem Cherry Edible?
Organization: Telecom Research Labs,Melbourne, Australia
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 00:28:23 GMT

I recently aquired some winter cherry seeds (Solanum Psuedocapsicum).
Are these really from Jerusalem? and are they edible? I know they are
Solanum's, but they are the edible nightshades aren't they? 
I'm particularly interested to hear from anybody who comes from where
they originate and if they appear in the regional cuisine.
I ate one yesterday and they tasted a little like a tamarillo but not
as bitter more mentholish. My dog stole one from my hand and ate it 
with relish but then my dog also loves to eat sheep manure. 
I like this plant as it fruits in winter (Prolifically)
is a perrenial, is very hardy and will grow in low light conditions
in fact it is usually grown as an indoor plant.

Thanks in advance.
Brad Starkie

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: ckelly@math.nwu.edu (Christopher Kelly)
Subject: Re: help on Geraniums
Organization: Dept of Math, Northwestern Univ
Distribution: rec
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1992 16:16:35 GMT

In article <RENJEN.92Jul30133616@puffin.nimbus.com>, renjen@nimbus.com (Sanjeev Renjen) writes:
> I have a problem with the Geraniums in the front of my house. They are in medium
> size pots, get plenty of sun, get watered every other day and get fertilized 
> once a month. But still they are not doing well. The leaves are not lush green
> and there a very few flowers. 
> [lines deleted] 

-- 

Seems to me geraniums, in general, don't like direct sun, n'est pas?

--Chris			internet: ckelly@math.nwu.edu
			phone:    (708) 491-8020
From: pharvey@mipos3.intel.com (Paul Harvey)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Improving clay soil
Date: 27 Jul 92 17:48:37 GMT

In article <1992Jul27.120842.27674@icd.ab.com> 
bab@icd.ab.com (Brian A. Batke) writes:
>I'm looking for advice on how to improve our clay soil to make
>it suitable for annual/perennial/shrub beds and a vegetable garden.
>I've read in this newsgroup that ground fir bark is ideal.
>Unfortunately, none of the garden or landscape suppliers in
>the area (greater Cleveland) have even heard of it. Is this
>something that's just available out west? 

It this true, does anyone know how to find ground fir bark in the Cleveland
area? It is commonly used as a mulch and is literally shreded fir bark.

>The local suppliers all say to use peat moss, which I don't think will help 
>the drainage problem. So what can we do? We're thinking maybe we can add a 
>mixture of sand and peat moss. Any other ideas? 

As far as I can tell, the idea of using ground peat moss comes from the Brits
who developed what most of us in the West call gardening. At one time, there
were a lot of peat bogs in the UK, so the material was available in large
quantities and low cost. This is no longer true, peat is now fairly pricey
in most places and the heavy consumption of peat has large environmental
impact. Also, peat will not improve the drainage of clay by much unless you
use almost 100% peat and then you have a peat soil which is good for Ericaceous
plants like Rhododendron and blueberry but not much else.

So what are the alternatives besides ground fir bark?

Sand? probably not, clay and sand and sun is a formula for bricks

Organic Matter like humus? Good on light clays, but if you have to add more than
25%, you can get problems from too much organic content, like bugs.

Other materials good for improving drainage of clay soils: Rice hulls, cocoa
hulls, vermiculite. Any more?

The ultimate fix besides moving? Probably raised beds filled with quality
garden loam that is available by truck load in most places.
From: pharvey@mipos3.intel.com (Paul Harvey)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Improving clay soil
Date: 28 Jul 92 20:25:14 GMT

In article <2029@tsdiag.ocpt.ccur.com> 
tjp@tsdiag.ocpt.ccur.com (Tom Pinzino) writes:
>Getting back on the subject of improving your soil - 1/3 clay, 1/3 sand and
>1/3 humus is close to ideal, but it may not be practical. 

33% humus is probably going to give you trouble. You can not maintain that
level in hot tropical climates, it decomposes to quickly. And you will have
epidemic problems with various bugs that are attracted to high organic level 
soils, like pillbugs, earwigs, nematodes, symphallins. Above 10% is good, but 
below 25% should avoid any of the problems from too much organic content. 
Humus is good, but there is always such a thing as too much of a good thing. 
So ideal is more like 10% humus, 30% sand, 30% clay, 30% silt.

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: news@usage.csd.unsw.OZ.AU
Subject: Re: Shallots
Organization: University of New South Wales
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 01:44:25 GMT

In article <1992Jul13.232547.6104@microsoft.com>, garyj@microsoft.com (Gary L. Jackson (USA)) writes:
   >yesterday the stems were yellowed and wilting and I dug them up.

I just slice them off near ground level with a small, sharp kitchen
knife leaving the roots and a sliver of stem to regenerate into more
shallots, usually 3 new ones from each original plant.
 [Works the same for chives, spring onions]

Recipes? Anyone who hasn't tried thinly sliced shallots with their
scrambled eggs hasn,t ... had breakfast at my place.

Enjoy
Yvonne

From: walker@hpl-opus.hpl.hp.com (Rick Walker)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 04:48:31 GMT
Subject: Re: PPitcher Plant Addendum
Organization: HP Labs, High Speed Electronics Dept., Palo Alto, CA
Newsgroups: rec.gardens

In rec.gardens, br105@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey A. Del Col) writes:

> 
> In my previous posting about pitcher plant genera I inadvertently 
> omitted Chrysamphora californica, the so-called Cobra Lily, a 
> North American native.  This plant used to be called Darlingtonia
> californica, but the gods of taxonomy and nomenclature ruled that 
> name invalid some years ago.

Jeff,

I believe that it was changed back again (by popular demand) to 
Darlingtonia californica.  None of my newer reference books still use
the Chrysamphora genus name.

BTW, there is a mailing list for people interested in discussing
carnivorous plants.  Many of the members are avid growers and several
members have plants to trade or sell.

If you are interested, send the one line message: "subscribe cp Your
Name" to the listserv address: "listserv@opus.hpl.hp.com".  You will
then receive copies of the discussion.  After subscribing, you can
contribute your own article for distribution by sending it to the
address: "cp@opus.hpl.hp.com".  Any mail sent to the cp address is
broadcast to all subscribers.

--
Rick Walker
From: bobd@.informix.com (Bob Dodge)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: help with fairy rose
Keywords: Rose
Date: 29 Jul 92 20:29:36 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Informix Software, Inc., Lenexa, Ks. Division
Originator: bobd@jupiter


	I have 6 roses which I believe are known as fairy roses.  They
are grouped as 2 groups of 3 each.  5 are blooming and growing happily, 
while 1 sets buds, then drops the buds before blooming.  It has done this
for 2 years now.  It looks as healthy as the two next to it.  They bloom.

	Anyone have any suggestions about what can be done with this odd
rose.  Do I have some mutant bush?  Any ideas would be appreciated.

thanks,

Bob Dodge  [pyramid|uucp]!infmx!bobd  bobd@informix.com
std. disclaimers and stuff - these are only my personal opinions, etc.
Informix not responsible for anything I say or do
         unless it is good or profitable.
From: langston@langston.cs.utk.edu (Mike Langston)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Rototillers
Date: 21 Jul 92 16:30:53 GMT
Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of Tennessee
Distribution: usa
Reply-To: langston@langston.cs.utk.edu (Mike Langston)
NNTP-Posting-Host: langston.cs.utk.edu

bill bruncati asks:

> I'm looking into buying a Rototiller for my 20ft x 50ft garden.
> Consumer Reports did a test on them but I'd also like to hear
> about anyones personal experiences and preferences.

am not sure you need a tiller for 1000 sq ft -- it'll 
just be one more gadget to maintain

years ago when i lived in town and had only 1000 sq ft 
available for my kitchen garden (also 20x50 like yours), 
i preferred to turn it over with a shovel each spring 
before planting and each fall before cover cropping -- 
each turning was an enjoyable fresh-air workout spread 
over a few days, and gave me deeper soil mixing (10-12 
inches) than a tiller can generally achieve

of course a few of my friends told me i was crazy to enjoy
such a strenuous activity, and that i should rush out to 
rent or buy a tiller -- curiously, these were often the same 
folks who thought it was completely sane to lift useless 
freeweights and run around in little circles at the local 
track or spa :)

-- mike

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: pamela@t.Stanford.EDU (Pamela D. Kinion)
Subject: what to do with overexcited amaryllis?
Organization: Computer Science Department, Stanford University
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 03:19:21 GMT

One of my amaryllis finished a while ago (less than a month) and, 
although I stopped watering it, I haven't put it in its bag in the 
garage yet.  I noticed today that it's growing again and so is a 
little baby!  So, what do I do with it now?  It can't be good for 
it to grow again so soon without a rest, can it?  Any advice appreciated!

p


Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: catharine.vinson@cccbbs.UUCP (Catharine Vinson) 
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: special interest plant societies
Date: 25 Jul 92 23:59:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Cincinnati Computer Connection BBS - Cincinnati, OH - 513-752-8248
Reply-To: catharine.vinson@cccbbs.UUCP (Catharine Vinson) 

To: rec.gardens
Newsgroup: rec.gardens
From: cvinson@world.com

 In reference to ramirez@julia.math.ucla.edu (Alice Ramirez) request for
 name/address of any carnivorous plant societies:

      The International Carnivorous Plant Society
      Leo Song, Co-Editor
      c/o Fullerton Aboretum, California State University
      Fullerton, California  92634
                                                                                                             
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: geiste@hsi.com (Doug Geiste)
Subject: lady bug like beetle
Organization: 3M Health Information Systems, Wallingford CT
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 17:16:57 GMT

I've found what looks like your typical lady bug (lady beetle) in my 
garden except that it's black with ~8 orange spots on it's back.

Anyone know what this insect is? If so, is it a good insect or a bad
insect?

Also, my beefsteak tomatoes seem to be getting eaten by something. They've 
developed holes on the sides that don't go but 1/4 inch deep. The holes
are no particular shape. Actually, they are very strange shaped and about
1/2 in width. The tomatoes that do have holes only have one hole. I suspect 
maybe tomato horn worms(??).


Thanks!
-- 
Doug Geiste                     |    
3M Health Information Systems   |    "I'm hurrying as fast as I can!" 
..!uunet!his!geiste            |                                 
geiste@hsi.com                  |                              -- My 4 year old
From: maxfield@athena.cs.uga.edu (Joan C. Maxfield)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: SKUNKS!!! help
Date: 25 Jul 92 18:41:32 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Georgia, Athens

Just in case your dog does bump into one of these guys keep on hand
about a case of tomatoe juice.  This is good for neutralizing the
smell.  It won't get rid of it but fido will be alot more pleasant to
be around.  I hear Masengil douche is also pretty good but I have
never tried it and would expect it to be more expensive.  Oh, and you
BATHE the dog in the juice, don't feed it too him!

Happy hunting,
Joan
-- 
J. C. Maxfield				maxfield@athena.cs.uga.edu
DISCLAIMER:  I don't speak for the University, but they often speak for me!
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: machanicm@gtephx.UUCP (Mindy Machanic)
Subject: Re: Marigolds/Calendula
Organization: gte
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 19:19:52 GMT

In article <1992Jul27.172449.27062@engage.pko.dec.com>, soley@trooa.enet.dec.com (Norman Soley) writes:
> 
> This spring we interplanted marigolds with our tomatoes because they are 
> supposed to repel cutworm, seems to have worked, we lost none despite never 
> getting around to putting on collars and our nieghbours all lost several. 
> 
> My wife is on this edible flower kick right now and has read that 
> Calendula (sp?) which are closely related to Marigolds are edible. She has 
> not been able to find any info regarding the edibility of "regular" 
> marigolds. 
> 
> My question is, should Calendula have the same effect on cutworm or does 
> anyone know that marigolds are edible.

I don't know about the edible part, but Calendula should have the same 
effect on the cutworms as the marigolds do; they are a natural source or
pyrethrins, and they do wonders keeping whiteflies away, too.
> 
> Thanks                                                     

You're welcome!  :-)

-- 
Mindy
*****************************************************************************************
Mindy Machanic  (AG Communication Systems/Quality Engineering, Phoenix, AZ)               
(This space available for interesting messages and the usual disclaimers...)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: mg@pacman.WPI.EDU (Martha Gunnarson)
Subject: Japanese Beetles, again
Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 15:55:18 GMT

Another twist on the Japanese Beetle catch-and-destroy methods:
  I use a jar containing water and a small amount of vegetable oil.
(Enough oil to create a layer about 1/4" deep on top of the water)
This causes the beetles to suffocate quickly, and is environmentally
more friendly than soap. 
  The habit of dropping off leaves when disturbed makes these insects
very easy to catch, especially in the early morning and evening when
they are not as active.  You just hold the jar under them, and push
them in with a stick or your finger.  Makes a good way to unwind after
work!  And you can dump the corpses in your compost pile with a clear
conscience. (Unless you like to stay awake nights worrying about all
those murders!)  8-)
-- 
~ Martha Gunnarson     mg@wpi.wpi.edu (Internet)                        ~
~ Gordon Library  Worcester Polytechnic Institute  Worcester, MA  01609  ~
~ "Everyone here is crazy so I fit right in."                            ~
From: dkinsley@bingsuns.cc.binghamton.edu (David Kinsley)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Japanese beetles
Date: 29 Jul 92 15:54:15 GMT
Organization: State University of New York at Binghamton



>To avoid the disposal problem when using kerosene to kill
>Japanese beetles, I use a bucket with water and a little bit
>of insecticidal soap. Drop the beetles in, wait an hour, and
>then pour the whole mess on your compost pile. 

Some have mentioned that it takes a while for the beetles to die in
soapy water. I've taken to knocking them in to a solution if vinegar
and dishwashing liquid.  One might think that the alkali from the soap
would neutralize the acid in the vinegar; regardlessly, the little
suckers die right away.  I haven't tried dumping it in the compost
pile,  but I suppose it that these should be relatively safe
additions.


-Dave 
dkinsley@bingsuns.cc.binghamton.edu
From: M.A.Hearnden@lut.ac.uk (MAHearnden)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Cydonia problem
Date: 24 Jul 92 10:28:43 GMT
Reply-To: M.A.Hearnden@lut.ac.uk (MAHearnden)
Organization: Loughborough University, UK.

I've had a common-or-garden cydonia - with dark red flowers -
growing against a south facing wall for 10 years.  I planted
it as a sucker from a bush growing in the garden when we moved in.
It has grown exceedingly well, has been trimmed back & reached
optimum size.  Flowered most of the spring & summer, & carried
fruit.  Just fine & dandy.
Until about a month ago, when the leaves started turning brown.
No other plants nearby affected - e.g. ,thyme growing at
its foot.  No sign of insects.  All the leaves have now dropped off.
I fed & watered it well as soon as I noticed the problems.
We've had quite a lot of dry weather here both this year & last year.
Another cydonia seems OK.
No sign of regrowth on the existing branches.  Just a couple of
vigorous suckers growing up from below ground.
I've not used weedkiller.  The effect was over the whole 
plant, not a case of die-back, nor something spreading from the
roots.
 
I cut back extensively yesterday, to leave a framework.
When I cut into the branches, they were still green.

Only thing that occurs to me is fire blight: does it behave like
this? does it affect quinces?  If so, can I do anything to protect
my pyracanthas?
HELP!

Mavis
From: luwsm@lehigh.edu (Wayne S. Mery)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: earwigs
Keywords: Earwigs
Date: 28 Jul 92 13:31:49 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University Computing Center

In article <1992Jul27.215720.3555@leela.cs.orst.edu> chrisda@jacobs.CS.ORST.EDU (David Christensen) writes:
>From: chrisda@jacobs.CS.ORST.EDU (David Christensen)
>Subject: Re: earwigs
>Date: 27 Jul 92 21:57:20 GMT

>Ignore them.  I use this method and I've never lost a tomato plant to them.
>(Seriously, why do you NEED to control them?  Are they eating your plants, 
or>are they just hanging out?  I think earwigs just are scavengers, aren't 
they?)
>David Christensen
>chrisda@jacobs.cs.orst.edu

I agree with David about the Tomatoes being generally invulnerable to 
earwigs.  But this doesn't necessarily translate to other plants.  

I was loosing a significant portion of my raspberry crop for the last 5 
years.  Last year, after a midnight hunt I concluded it was small ants 
and these buggers.  This is contrary to what I was led to beleive through my 
usually reliable dad and reputable books.  When the earwigs don't have 
enough food to support the population I've seen them turn various flowers 
into nothing but stems.  

They hit the berry when it turns just the slightest bit red. I'm not 
certain though if they hit only after the ants have taken the first bite and 
opened the fruit.(Granted, I loose a lot to birds and small ants also.)

I'm fighting back now on all fronts, especially the earwigs.  When it's 
especially bad I'll go out at night and hunt.  Simply shake the plant or 
berry and they drop obligingly into a pot of soapy water.  Hose and 
newspaper mentioned in the next person's post is my other method of control 
and is very effective.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: vsummers@polaris.cv.nrao.edu (Vince Summers)
Subject: Books by D. Stokes
Organization: National Radio Astronomy Observatory
Distribution: rec.gardens
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 20:18:53 GMT

     Any comments about Don Stokes publications?  He is a naturalist who
writes, not only about birds, mammals, vines, shrubs, insects, seasons, 
flowers, etc., but about their interactions.  Fascinating backyard field
trips to see the Spittlebug, skunk, Spicebush Swallowtail and its host,
etc., abound so you begin to really get interested.  You can identify
by waste products, holes in the ground, a curled leaf, etc. 
     I am always interested in such things.
Vince Summers
vsummers@polaris.cv.nrao.edu
From: jhb@calmasd.prime.com (Jim Bishop)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Cactus mail order dealer?
Date: 31 Jul 92 00:29:46 GMT
Organization: -

In article <1992Jul29.134044.18164@news.nd.edu>, johanes@newton.ce.nd.edu (Johanes Suhardjo) writes:
> Hi,
> Can somebody give me the address of a cactus mail order dealer?
> Thanks in advance.
> 

Try:

Rainbow Gardens Cacus Nursery & Bookshop
1444 Taylor
Vista, CA 92083
(619)758-4290

They specialize in epiphyllums (supposedly one of the best grower in
the country) and unusual succulents.  They are mostly a mail order
business.
From: dwilbert@bbn.com (Deborah Wilbert)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: squash borers
Date: 30 Jul 1992 17:39:12 GMT
Organization: Bolt Beranek and Newman Inc., Cambridge MA
Reply-To: dwilbert@BBN.COM (Deborah Wilbert)
NNTP-Posting-Host: bbn.com
Keywords: squash

In article <1992Jul30.154907.1231@tamsun.tamu.edu> jjilg@cs.tamu.edu (Jeffrey M Jilg) writes:
>
>What is the recommended mode of destruction of these little beasts?  I
>don't intend to eat the squash and there is another squash plant right
>next to it that doesn't appear to be affected (yet).  I don't mind using
>an insecticide since these won't be eaten.  Wouldn't you know that this
>happened just when it was starting to look nice and healthy with some
>new blooms being set!
>
>Jeff Jilg
>

I'm curious-- why would you want to grow squashes if not for eating?
Are they gourds, luffas, pumpkins destined for jack'o'lanterns or
what? We planted some gourds last year but only got one gourd and gave
up.

I have some questions re. edible flowers:

I know squash blossoms are edible, but I've never tried them. I know
you can fry them tempura-style. Do people eat only the male blossoms?
Are they still good to eat after they've started to wilt?  

Also, when is the best time to pick tiger lilly blossoms? (I know they
are used in hot & sour soup. I've bought them dried.) Do they have to
be buds or can they be fully open or even beginning to wilt? Are (day)
lilly blossoms in general edible or are there any poisonous ones (I
don't want to take a chance on a possibly mis-identified tiger lilly--
I've seen what looked to me like two distinct orange lilly species
both identified as tiger lillies.).

Thanks,
-Deborah

P.S. 

Veggie Garden update-- Mucho sweet basil doing well this year. Many
(Chinese) peas & beans also harvested. Lots of radishes, some lettuce
(a little disappointed in the romain heads, maybe switch back to loose
leaf). Also disappointed in the mustard greens-- probably planted too
late and they bolted, but we got some out of it. Zucchini almost
ready. I planted 5 of the dreaded Jerusalem Artichokes outside the
garden. They got well trimmed by a visiting groundhog, but they are
flourishing again. Worked as a trap crop!  Also, tried planting some
Delicata (YUMM!) squash from seeds saved from the squash. We have some
reasonably sized plants, but no sign of squash so far.  Hope it's not
some kind of sterile hybrid.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: geiste@hsi.com (Doug Geiste)
Subject: Cabbage - when to pick?
Organization: 3M Health Information Systems, Wallingford CT
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 16:19:29 GMT


How big should the cabbage head get before I pick it? I'd say the ones I have 
are a bit larger than a softball. Any suggestions?

Thanks!

-- 
 Doug Geiste                     |    
 3M Health Information Systems   |    "I'm hurrying as fast as I can!" 
 ...!uunet!his!geiste            |                                
 geiste@hsi.com                  |                            -- My 4 year old 
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: ceb@dbrus.Unify.Com (Caroline E. Bryan)
Subject: Re: Common name for Salpiglossus (sp?) ?
Organization: /usr/lib/news/organization
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 92 15:45:36 GMT

In article <1992Jul21.002346.9023@brtph560.bnr.ca> bhaskar@brtph598.bnr.ca (Shaji Bhaskar) writes:
>
>This is a plant with bunches of rose colored flowers, about a foot tall.
>Supposedly, it is related to eggplants.  Does anyone know where I can find
>it and what it's common name is?

I believe its common name is a straight translation of the Latin one:
	something-tongue (don't remember what salpi- translates to).


Carrie		ceb@rechenau.unify.com		x 6244  ----------------+
|  I don't belong to any organized political party:  I'm a Democrat.	|
|						-- Will Rogers		|
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.gardens