HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: kari.tiihonen@compart.fi (Kari Tiihonen) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Blue Printing
Date: 26 Aug 92 13:20:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: ComPart BBS, Helsinki-Finland, +358 0 506 3329 (14 lines V.32bis)
Reply-To: kari.tiihonen@compart.fi (Kari Tiihonen) 

Many people here are discusing about BluePrinting as making
your engine to fit factory specs as close as possible. This
is true but a lot is still forgotten. You also have to balance
everything (pistons, cranks...and clutch) to get a smooth
running. This all is in the specs (weight of piston is xxx).
Also volume of manifold openings should be matched on both
sides on engine (they are in pairs, not the same). Volume of
burning place (in heads above pistons - soory my english) must
be the same. This is required to get same power out of all
cylinders. It also effects on tremblings. Pressure of valve
springs must be same and the rise of valves also. Actually
easiest way is to thing the engine as one cylinder copied
to 8 - everything is the same. Tremblings take a lot of power.
Different weight, cylinder power and volumes causes this.
(btw, compressor charger on a Dragster takes 600-800hp to run).
A long time a go I read that saying 'blue print' comes from
factory spec-papers that really where printed with blue color.

--- WinQwk 2.0 a#0
                                                                                                       
From: ggg@hpsad.sad.hp.com (Gary Goodlund)
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 20:57:20 GMT
Subject: Re: Broquet: Fuel Catalyst
Organization: HP Signal Analysis Division - Rohnert Park, CA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

Hi Gaven,

This raises a question.  Does this additive cause any fouling of the 
spark plugs? I've used a fuel additive called "+104" or "104 Octane"
or somesuch thing.  It does reduce the detonation pretty effectively
but the plugs are so badly fouled by about 5-6Kmiles that the engine
sounds terrible.This is a stock 9:1 compression ratio on a '72 240Z.

I'd like to find another product that reduced detonation effectively
but didn't cause these problems.  So far, I haven't seen anything on
the market in Northern California.

'later,
  Gary
From: ian@centric.com (Ian Macky)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Starter jamming
Date: 2 Sep 92 00:37:05 GMT
Organization: Centric Engineering Systems
Originator: ian@falcon

I just installed a rebuilt starter on my car and have had a couple
experiences so far of the pinion gear jamming on the flywheel somehow.

The engaging side of the pinion gear has a ramp cut into each tooth
so that if when it's thrown out by the solenoid and the teeth aren't
lined up to mesh properly, it hits the flywheel on the ramp and
rotates into meshing position and continues to engage.  That's the way
it usually works, I think.

But... sometimes the pinion seems to wedge somehow.  Once it did this
with full power applied through the solenoid relay to the starter,
heating up both battery cables blistering hot (as my friend found out),
almost instantly.  Since this circuit has no fuse or fusible link, it's
a major fire hazard!  We had to rock the car in gear to disengage the
pinion; we could hear it being retracted, click!, once unjammed...

Anyway, should the flywheel ring gear be greased to aid in the pinion's
ramping action?  The ring gear was dry, and the pinion only lightly
greased when installed.

--ian
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Anti-sieze on spark plugs
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 13:02:39 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 Anti-sieze is useful because it prevents the plugs from getting rust-bonded
to the head. It may keep you from stripping aluminum head plug holes. It may
also encourage over-torqueing if you're used to the dry torque. At any rate,
you'll be much happier when it comes time to remove them again.

 To avoid plug fouling concerns, do not apply the lubricant to the
part of the plug that protrudes into the combustion chamber. Use an old plug
as a guide, and apply the goo only to the part that doesn't see fire.

 The stuff is great for manifold bolts/studs and other exhaust nust/bolts.
I use plain silver anti-sieze on all exhaust hardware. If it's a cooler
spot and I want some thread-locking properties (but just -some-) I use the
Permatex Liquid Copper stuff. 

 Personally I change plugs often enough that I don't need the anti-sieze. 
However some engines seem to be more prone to rust on the plugs; if you 
have a means for water to accumulate in the plug recesses (like on L-4
engines with the plugs on top) it may be worth your while.
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: wcr@unislc.uucp (William Rankin)
Subject: Re: Mysterious Sunbird Problem...Advice?
Organization: Unisys Corporation SLC
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 18:12:43 GMT

From article <92238.154541SRV101@psuvm.psu.edu>, by Steve VanOrmer <SRV101@psuvm.psu.edu>:
> Greetings,
> 
> I've got a rather frustrating engine problem with my 1986 Pontiac Sunbird
> that has persisted for the last month. When driving on the open highway my
> engine cuts out rather abruptly for a split second. This seems to happen
> when I'm traveling between 55 - 65 MPH and am traveling on an inclined road.
> So far I have tried the following things with no luck.
> 
> - Had the engine checked by a mechanic with computer engine analysis
> - Had the fuel filter replaced
> - Had the Oxygen Sensor Reset
> - Had the timing reset
> - Ran only high octane fuel for the past month
> - Used a fuel additive to clean the fuel injectors and intake valves
> 
I had an experience with a similar problem on a camaro which had one of
the first throttle-body injection systems. It seems the car would
be running fine and then one of the injectors would "stick" and flood out 
the engine. After a lot of grief and a $500 injector repair estimate,
a savy mechanic suggested water in the gas. Sure enough, the water was
fooling the engine computer and caused it to flood-out the engine.
The "sticking" injector was just following orders! The problem would
worsen on inclines because of heavier throttle and the water running
past the pickup in the tank.

On the other hand, I too have had a distributer wire short-out
against an engine and interrupt the ignition. Eventually the wire
stayed shorted and cost me a $100 tow bill and $310 timing chain
replacement before the mechanic finally found the short
(thanks, Chrysler!)

Bill R.
From: thy@riviera.camb.inmet.com (Tom Yelton)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: I want Quiet tires
Keywords: tires
Date: 27 Aug 92 14:14:33 GMT
Organization: Intermetrics Inc.

I have a 1988 Mercury Tracer with Goodyear Corsa GT tires (185/70SR13 ?).
I have no major complaints about the tires (they handled well, wore well)
except that they seem to be rather noisy.  The back tires are extremely
noisy now, due to uneven wear and 63+K miles, but it seems to me that
the tires always were noisy at highway speeds even when they were new.
I'd guess it is because of the sporty looking (to me) tread design.

It's time to replace the rear tires and I'd like to buy some quieter
tires for the second half of the car's lifetime.  I don't especially
want to sacrifice handling, long life, and bad weather performance but
I will consider compromises.

Are tires rated on their quietness?  How could I access these ratings
if they exist?  Does anyone have any recommendations of specific
make/models of tires to replace these Corsa GTs?

Thanks in advance.	- tom
-- 
----------
Tom Yelton	thy@inmet.camb.inmet.com
From: philg@zurich.ai.mit.edu (Philip Greenspun)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Recommendations for Mini Van
Date: 29 Aug 92 20:37:50 GMT
	<1992Aug22.085010.1075@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu>
Reply-To: philg@martigny.ai.mit.edu
Distribution: rec.autos
Organization: M.I.T. Artificial Intelligence Lab.
In-reply-to: lusky@hal.gnu.ai.mit.edu's message of 22 Aug 92 08:50:10 GMT


In article <1992Aug22.085010.1075@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu> lusky@hal.gnu.ai.mit.edu (Jonathan R. Lusky) writes:

   I can assure you that Chrysler is not happy to cover warranty
   problems, and that the $150 or $200 per visit deductible can really add up.
   They are supposed to waive the deductible for repeat repairs, But I've had
   to get a lawyer several times to get those dedecuctibles waived (for
   repairs that had been made before under warranty).  Chryler is also notorious
   for refusing admit theres anything wrong with a vehicle.

Wow!  This sounds exactly like Ford.  Lee Iacocca must have brought
this sort of attitude toward customers with him when he made his big
move.

It is companies like Ford and Chrysler that lead Americans to sue --
Dan Quayle should be complaining about the shameless manner in which
big companies breach their contracts with consumers rather than the
lawyers.  When we have companies like Ford and Chrysler running
around, blaming lawyers for lawsuits is like blaming the Post Office
for junk mail.

Philip Greenspun
MIT Department of EE
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rdi@cci632.cci.com (Rick Inzero)
Subject: Re: I want Quiet tires
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Summary: go with old technology for peace & quiet
Keywords: tires
Reply-To: rdi@ccird3.UUCP (Rick Inzero)
Organization: CCI, Communications Systems Division, Rochester, NY
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 13:00:54 GMT

In article <1992Aug27.194106.4050@cbnewsm.cb.att.com> pkss@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (philip.k.sikora) writes:
>In article <1992Aug27.141433.26733@inmet.camb.inmet.com>, thy@riviera.camb.inmet.com (Tom Yelton) writes:
>> I have a 1988 Mercury Tracer with Goodyear Corsa GT tires (185/70SR13 ?).
>> I have no major complaints about the tires (they handled well, wore well)
>> except that they seem to be rather noisy.  The back tires are extremely
>> noisy now, due to uneven wear and 63+K miles, but it seems to me that
>> the tires always were noisy at highway speeds even when they were new.
>> I'd guess it is because of the sporty looking (to me) tread design.
>> 
>> It's time to replace the rear tires and I'd like to buy some quieter
>> tires for the second half of the car's lifetime.  I don't especially
>> want to sacrifice handling, long life, and bad weather performance but
>> I will consider compromises.
>
>Look for ones manufactured after '85 - when they started using CAD pgms for
>modeling. I spoke w/ a noise test engineer at Cooper Tires. Try their Lifeliner
>Classic or some such name. I've found no reports that address this.  I have
>experienced your tires, but they're not as bad as my Bridgestone 470's.  You'd
>think some car or consumer mag would lend a hand here.

Tires that AREN'T all-season tires will be quieter.
Tires that are bias ply summer tires will be quietest of all!

---
Rick Inzero, President of the "Put The High Beam Switch Back On The Damn 
				Floor, Where It Belongs Society"
						rochester!cci632!rdi
Computer Consoles Inc. (CCI)			uunet!ccicpg!cci632!rdi
Rochester, NY					rdi@cci.com

"He who has the most mass wins."  -Theodore Chen

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: garyc@lenny.acns.nwu.edu (Gary I. Chang)
Subject: Repair Job of an old Maxima at the Dealer
Reply-To: garyc@lenny.acns.nwu.edu
Organization: Northwestern University, Evanston, Illinois, USA
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1992 01:26:15 GMT


My girlfriend and I were driving her Maxima Yr. 84 on the highway;
suddenly all the gauges on the dashboard dropped to the bottom, the entire  
electric system went off, and soon it became lifeless with the hazard  
barely flashing. We stucked on the road and were forced to call AAA for a  
towing because the battery never came back alive to restart the car. 

	Now, according to the truck driver of AAA service truck, it could  
be the problem with the alternator and I seemed to agree with him. Because  
things started getting so weired that the stereo system went off about 2-3  
months ago, but we tried to live without the music in the car;and then the  
voice alert speaks in loops for every words it can every once a while;  
last week the central lock went completely off. The blue and red warning  
lights on the dash board pop on a couple of miniutes after the car is  
started.............** SIGH ** I should have noticed those warning signs..

	So, my questionb is, could this be simply the alternator? I  
checked and were sure there's no broken fuse in the box. Should I bring it  
to a Nissan Dealer for a complete check and repair? Or I can bring it to  
any local shop? About how much would the professional dealer charge me for  
the work? Is there any good places to go? 

Thanks for the reply.

Gary

--
+----------------+
| Gary I. Chang	 |
+----------------+   NeXT-Mail: garyc@lenny.acns.nwu.edu
Northwestern Univ.      E-Mail: garyc@eecs.nwu.edu
From: tcora@PICA.ARMY.MIL (Tom Coradeschi <tcora>)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: inspections
Date: 28 Aug 92 19:15:17 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Electric Armts Div, US Army ARDEC, Picatinny Arsenal, NJ

v069pff7@ubvmsc.cc.buffalo.edu (Snake-Eyes) writes:
>Does anyone out there live in NYS and have no catalytic converter on
>there car have trouble passing inspections? I have found that there
>is always someone somewhere willing to do it for maybe a bit more $$,
>but I hear they are passing a new law to go into effect next year about
>catalytic converters and registration..has anyone heard the same?

Do you mind if I ask _why_ you don't have a cat? Do you enjoy fouling
the air with hydrocarbon emissions? Personally, I don't have much to
say, other than: The state of New York has developed, in co-operation
with the NSA, CIA, FBI and NBC a roadside cat detector, which will
automatically photograph your license plate and face upon detection of
a vehicle which has had the catalyst removed or defeated. This will
be used as evidence against you in a court of law. Anything you post
to usenet can and will be held against you. So why not go down to the
junkyard and blow 50 bux on a used cat, and help clean up the air (or
at least keep it from getting any more foul)?
-- 
 
                tom coradeschi    <+>    tcora@pica.army.mil
From: Steve.Kaess@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Steve Kaess)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: CLUB Story
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1992 15:05:25 -0500

 > Wife's CLUB just messed up royally.  We go to unlock it
 > and there it is
 > stuck and the key won't turn(it has one of those circular
 > keys not a regular
 > one).  We call the locksmith, he laughed and said that
 > this was a common
 > complaint and came that night to get it off my wife's car.
 >  He hadn't
 > experience picking that sort of lock, so he drilled the
 > master cylinder
 > and removed the lock itself.  good news was that it took
 > at least half
 > an hour so the thing was good, the bad news was that it
 > was a piece of
 > crap lock.  Also she had it wedged in the corner with the
 > butt of the
 > club in the windshield it wasn't till the next morning
 > I saw the
 > crack!!!! so it cost me 45 dollars for the locksmith and
 > dunno
 > how much its gonna be for the windshield..  Any help
 > for getting CLUB number to yell would be appreciated.
 > Thanks
 > Asim
 
Very sorry to hear of your problems with the club, perhaps the second 
worse auto rip off with only slick 50 doing any worse.
The club can be defeated in 25 seconds--what is your steering wheel 
made of??**PLASTIC**or some other rockwell 1.2 materal...joe car 
thief gets into the car, and horrors he is faced with the national 
police officers approved club anti theft device. 
reach into his handy car thieves kit(issued upon release from all 
the best prisions) he extracts the battery powered hacksaw and cuts 
your sturdy steering wheel through...then he just slips the hardened 
rockwell 200,000 steel club, fully intact and unviolated under the 
seat...away your car and your 50.00 buck club go...thank you for 
supporting my tv watching...perhaps when you talk to the people at 
the club you might suggest that they also support motor week on public 
tv??  


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: How Fast is a Top Fueler???
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 92 06:49:42 GMT

Rujith S DeSilva (rudis+@cs.cmu.edu) wrote:
: In article <1992Aug26.092300.14627@vax5.cit.cornell.edu>
: gv9j@vax5.cit.cornell.edu writes:
: > ... a typical Top Fuel dragster ...
: >
: >I saw the NHRA Northwest nationals in Seattle, and did some timing.
: >They did 1/4 mile in 4.9 sec, meaning an avg of 3.41 g.
: >They got up to 295 mph in 4.9 sec, acceleration of 2.74g average.
: 
: Err ... the above two figures are contradictory.  It's got to be either one or
: the other.
: 
: What are these cars like, anyway?  I've never heard of them, or anything
: remotely like them.
: 
: Rujith de Silva.
: Carnegie Mellon.

Gosh, I'm SOOOOOOOOOO tempted to write a nasty post about keeping this kind of
crap out of rec.autos.tech, and putting it in rec.autos.sport where it belongs,
but I'd never consider being that sarcastic.

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.
hinzd@picard.med.ge.com
From: Cliff_Lum@mindlink.bc.ca (Cliff Lum)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: TOYOTA's timing belt
Date: 26 Aug 92 01:34:11 GMT
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada
Distribution: world

> John Nall writes:
> 
> Msg-ID: <10428@sun13.scri.fsu.edu>
> Posted: 25 Aug 92 20:48:13 GMT
> 
> Org.  : SCRI, Florida State University
> 
> In article <leonard.714663922@aix3090b.uky.edu> leonard@aix3090b.uky.edu
> (Leonard Lauria) writes:
> >what about the eclipse/talon/laser?  free wheeling or not?
> 
>   Dunno.  But since I read all these horror stories, I asked my
>   mechanic-adviser if it was something I needed to worry about
>   on the ol' Mercedes Benz.  He smiled and said that not only
>   did the MB have a timing *chain*, but that it was a *double*
>   chain, so even if one broke, the other would still be there.
> 
>   So eat your livers, Toyota owners :-)
> 
> John
> (p.s.  If you ever saw my old '77 MB, which cost me $1500, you'd
> know why I'm smiling.  I can't afford a Toyota!)
> 

Hey, my 1982 TOYOTA COROLLA has a Double Roller Timing chain too!!! :)
It also has a hemi-head and 4 into 2 into 1 exhaust system. All stock items
too. :))

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty)
Subject: Re: '85 Subaru GL - replacing water pump gasket easy?
Organization: New York State Institute for Sebastian Cabot Studies
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 16:10:00 GMT

someone wrote:
>	"Naah. I never saw a water pump driven by the timing belt."

early versions of the US market Ford Escort.

cheers,
  richard
-- 
richard welty                            518-393-7228
welty@cabot.balltown.cma.com
  ``if you can read this, mario, you're too close''
    -- bumper sticker seen on a CART safety truck
From: dafuller@sequent.com (David Fuller)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Blueprinting - What is it.
Date: 23 Aug 92 21:06:28 GMT
Article-I.D.: sequent.1992Aug23.210628.968
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems Inc.

>
>In porting and polishing, the emphasis is on enlarging and smoothing out the
>ports. The manifold gasket can be used as a template for matching up the ports,
>but it is probably not as exact as the blueprinting method.

For basic porting, yes, that's true.  But doing real head work is a serious
discipline.  Most everyone has access to the best metallurgy these days,
good cranks, good oiling; but to increase the power output, you still have
to rely on the science of heads, cams, valves, and manifolds/headers to 
make the Big Gains.

In fact, enlarging the ports on a street motor isn't a terribly good idea
unless you are willing to run the motor at higher revs to achieve good
throttle response.  Slowing down the speed of the intake charge will do
just the opposite of what you'd want.

My old street machine was a 318 Duster with a 2 barrel.  On the street, it
always whomped big blocks and high revving smallblocks 'cuz unless they
wanted to make a lot of cop-attracting and clutch burning racket they had
to wait for their motors to spool up before making Serious Horsepower.

Course, I don't do that any more; but the lesson is instructive.

-- 
Dave Fuller		 	All opinions expressed are my own and not
Sequent Computer Systems	those of Sequent Computer Systems, Inc.
dafuller@sequent.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
From: gavin@aquila.csis.dit.csiro.au (Gavin Walker)
Subject: Fuel Separator
Organization: CSIRO Division of Information Technology
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 00:04:28 GMT


An old invention has resurfaced in the news recently.  A professor at
the Australian National University developed an electromagnetic separator
for fuel about 30 years ago.  It wasn`t very successful then.  Supposedly
the fuel is a bit different know (I think they`re talking about unleaded)
and it works quite well.

The device fits inbetween the carburettor and the inlet manifold.  Supposedly 
it uses electromagnetic forces to break the fuel droplets down to an average
size of 3 mircons.  That constrasts with 10 microns for the Orbital Engine
and around 100(?) microns for fuel injection systems.  This then leads to
better combustion.   Current tests indicate 40% emissions reduction, 40%
less fuel consumption and about 1% loss of maximum power.

The inventor is currently testing it on his 2.6l 4cyl Mitsubishi Magna (Sigma)
and claims 50% less fuel consumption.


-- 
  _--_|\                    Gavin Walker
 /      \                   CSIRO Division of Information Technology
 \_.--.*/ <- Canberra,      Walker@csis.dit.csiro.au
       v     Australia      Phone +61-6-2750964     Fax +61-6-2571052
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: overheating
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 92 09:32:46 GMT

Ken Zuroski (kz08+@andrew.cmu.edu) wrote:
: 
: I suspect a leak in the cooling system, and figure that the coolant simply
: ran dry. There is one other sympton that is confusing me, however. Now even
: with a full radiator, whenever the truck is idling and I turn on the heater,
: the air coming out of the heater remains cool until I rev the engine a bit--
: then it heats up momentarily and then gets cool again. This is not the same
: response that I remember before the engine boiled over. Then, the heater seemed
: to heat up quickly even at idle and gave good constant heat output. 

Sounds like you have a bubble in your heater core.  Since the coolant was
gone recently, and just refilled, I would guess you need to bleed it out
of the core.  There should be a tap on it, open it up while idling, leave
it open until water (coolant) comes out, then close the tap.

Of course, if you can't SEE the heater core, this may be more difficult than
it could be.  I don't know how the F-150 is, never having owned one.

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.
hinzd@picard.med.ge.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech