HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria

In rec.aquaria, dresler@cabell.vcu.edu (Dan Resler) writes:

    Is it just me, or do others think that the Dupla heating cable
    system is *way* over-priced? Why is it so expensive? Does anyone
    know of a comparable product, or if one is currently being developed?

Yes, it seems *way* overpriced.  It is so expensive because of the same
reason Mercedes are "overpriced" - extensive, expensive engineering. 
Most of the German products seem to share this trait - Dupla, Tunze,
Dennerele (?).  They really work.  I guess you could buy a cheap 
system that may or may not work.  If it doesn't work, you could buy a 
little more expensive system that may or may not work, and eventually 
pay as much as if you bought a Dupla system to start with.  To say 
nothing of the cost of lost specimens and the cost of your frustration.  
Dupla products have always worked very well for me.  I can't say as much 
about most other products.  It's your money. 

BTW, it's not the importer "price gouging" either.  Dupla products cost
as much or more in Germany as they do in the U.S. 

If you are interested enough to pay for a phone call, give Andrew Thomas
at Little Ocean Products a call (503 344-3474).  He may be working on
a line of freshwater related products.  A show of interest may spur him on.

    On a related topic, would using a low-temp heating *mat* under the
    tank be better than using no substrate heating at all?

Probably.  Let us know how your experiment works out. 

--------
George
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:7981 alt.aquaria:5329
From: jon@apollo.mcl.bdm.com (Jon Humphreys)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: [M] Help w/new tank
Keywords: help, marine, new
Date: 13 Oct 92 18:07:39 GMT
Article-I.D.: lynx.=snp+db
Organization: BDM International, Inc.

I've recently set up a new 20L reef tank.  It's running with a Biolife 55 wet/dry
and about 30lbs of live rock.  I set up the tank on Sept 29, adding half a bottle
of nitrosomas/nitrobacter (Fritz #9).  The I went on vacation.  When I returned,
the tank looked good, so I added the rest of the bottled bacteria.  NH3, NO2,
etc remained essentially nil.  Yesterday, the owner of the fish store recommended
I go ahead and begin introducing soft corals (mushrooms) and bring up the
lights (a 20W triton and 20W actinic).  He seems to know what he's talking
about (has lots of corals and reef setups in the store), but after reading
Moe, I'm a little unsure.  Does this seem too soon to those of you who have done
this before?  I have a hard time believing the tank has cycled already, though
there are no traces of NH3 and NO2.  (Also, though, there is no NO3...)

Help!

Also, does anyone have a suggestion for good first creatures to add?  Is it
best to add fish or corals first?  What are good hardy corals?

Thanks for any help.

jon
-- 
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: dougo@wam.umd.edu (Douglas Bruce Olson)
Subject: Re: Fastest Fish??
Organization: University of Maryland, College Park
Date: Sat, 17 Oct 1992 03:35:24 GMT

>Keeping on topic with fast fish, what tropical fish do most aquarists have
>most troubles catching with or without hiding areas?

	I have to say that I don't know what the hardest fish for me to
catch was (Well, my swordtails are tough enough for me, but then again, 
I haven't had that many fish...) the EASIEST fish for me to catch was my
dragonfish (violet goby) and runner up is my Albino frog...


Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: ffujita@s.psych.uiuc.edu (Frank Fujita)
Subject: Re: Boret Heaters
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1992 06:13:26 GMT


Okay, I think I've decided to spend the money and get a microheater --
if anybody can tell me where.  
If not, then I might do a light during the night (and reverse the
diurnal cycle) trick.
Frank Fujita
P.S.  I've read the ads in the mail order places, but I don't have any
catalogs, so if you know of a mail order place that sells these things,
please let me know
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:7942 alt.aquaria:5304 sci.aquaria:1434
From: weekley@helios.phy.ohiou.edu (Don Weekley)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria,sci.aquaria
Subject: Brine shrimp breeding?
Date: 12 Oct 92 04:20:55 GMT
Organization: Ohio University ASCGL, Athens


	I have been considering starting to raise brine shrimp
for feeding purposes. I want to be able to set up a small (2.5
gallon) tank to raise and possible breed brine shrimp. I want to
do this as opposed to hatching a new batch of eggs for every
feeding. I want to setup this tank to need simply feeding and
minor maintenance. Is there a book or other source of information
I can get a hold of to be able to do this? Or has anyone out
there tried to do this before and have helpful tips for doing
this type of thing?

	I would be doing this to feed a 20gal tank of mostly
tetras for now. It might be more expensive than flake but I
thought it might be fun to try. I might not feed them just brine
shrimp, but supplement heavily with them and use them to distract
any more predatory type I might get in the future. 

	Thanks a lot in advance.

					Don
-- 
Hey there! Hi there! Ho there!
You're as welcome as can be!
M-I-C-K-E-Y M-O-U-S-E!!
What else can it be?
From: jward@hydra.acs.uci.edu (John Ward)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: New Tank
Date: 16 Oct 92 04:12:43 GMT
Article-I.D.: news.2ADE413B.8355
Distribution: na
Organization: University of California, Irvine

>Terry Gerritsen (terry@gtm-inc.com) wrote:
> Then the blues, and the stripes kept attacking them until finally they
> died. Now did they die from the level of nitrite and ammonia being to high
> or from the constent attacks they encountered.

Note that the Damsels are very territorial and will likely treat new
inhabitants in a similar manner.   If you plan to add less aggressive
fish after the cycle, you might want to trade-in the Damsels when you
add the others.  Some Damsels can be nasty tank-mates even when the
other fish are already comfortable with the tank.  Caveat emptor.
--
John Ward    UC Irvine, Department of Redundancy Department
email: jward@uci.edu or jward@uci.bitnet
     "Time flies like an eagle.  Fruit flies like a banana."
From: snoopy@spacemanspiff.den.mmc.com (Cindy Newell)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Need Help With Ick!!!
Date: 8 Oct 92 15:46:17 GMT
Organization: Denver, Colorado

In article <7OCT199216402083@utkvx1.utk.edu> jkell@utkvx1.utk.edu (Kell, Jeffrey R) writes:
>In article <1992Oct07.173332.22135@brtph560.bnr.ca>, rzeller@brtph450.bnr.ca (Richard Zeller P860) writes...
>>I am really frustrated!!! How long can I expect the ick to last? What's the
>>best way to treat it now and how do I prevent future infections? I was told
>
>I also had a recent ick problem.  Try using Maracide, it is specifically for 
>parasitic infections.  You may not be able to save fish already infested, but
>it will kill the parasite during its free-swimming stage and save you other
>fish.  It will give a greenish tint to the water for a few days (aniline) but
>it will go away or can be coaxed away sooner with activated carbon.  I have 
>been adding a prophylactic dose monthly (maybe I'm paranoid now).  It also 
>helps to increase your aeration during treatment.


I may be totally off here, but I was told at fish store that anything
that puts aniline (methylyn blue?) in the water is harmful to your
bottom feeders, ie loaches, catfish, plecos, etc.  I have had nothing
but trouble with Maracide, as it killed 6 of my clown loaches and a 
pictus catfish!  The same company that makes Maracide makes a product
called "CopperSafe" which is what I was told would handle the Ick 
problem without harming the bottom feeders.

Am i tight about this...anyone?



-- 
 Cindy Camp - Usual disclaimers apply   |  Just waiting for a good quote
 Martin Marietta  (303)977-9804 	|  or lyric right now.
 snoopy@spacemanspiff.den.mmc.com  or	|  
 cnewell@azum.den.mmc.com		|
From: scol@scottsdale.az.stratus.com (Scott Colbath)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: (F) Peat
Date: 7 Oct 92 12:51:34 GMT

In article <1992Oct7.052100.2205@netcom.com> oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev)  
writes:

<<< Lost of stuff deleted >>>

While we're on the subject of water...I filled my freshwater tank with water  
from cold water tap in my kitchen. It has an inline filtration setup which  
removes particles 5 microns or larger from the water. The water here in Phoenix  
tastes bogus, which is why I put it on in the first place. Can I assume that  
this water is of good quality for my fish? 

--
**********************************************************
Scott Colbath
Stratus Computer
Phoenix, Az.  (602)852-3106
Internet:scott_colbath@az.stratus.com
**********************************************************
From: sik@grosz.esd.sgi.com (Seth Katz)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Datinioides
Date: 15 Oct 92 18:49:30 GMT
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc., Mountain View, CA, USA

Anyone keep these "Tiger Fish"?

Any comments or tips?  

Do you keep yours in fresh or brackish water?

What do they eat? 

Are they territorial?

What do you keep with them?

Thanks,
Seth
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: rickkr@microsoft.com (Rick Krause)
Subject: Could someone clarify a FAQ statement re a siphon?
Date: 08 Oct 92 01:42:51 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corporation
Keywords: siphon

One of the FAQ articles stated that a technique for acclimating
new fish it to put them and their water in a bucket and "establish
a siphon with a piece of airline tubing with airstones at either
end".  I need some clarification on this.

<1> Does "airstones at either end" mean to put an airstone at one
of the ends, or to put stones on both ends?

<2> How would you start a siphon like this?

thx,
rick
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: livings@unislc.uucp (Ross Livingston)
Subject: Re: [ALL] Use of Headers in posts
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Organization: Unisys Corporation SLC
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 13:48:57 GMT

Assana Fard (assana@polkadot.Eng.Sun.COM) wrote:

: Now, does anyone know what's involved in splitting a newsgroup?
: I, personally, don't find time to read news that often, and when I do, don't 
: mind reading [M] subjects although I have a [F] tank. 
: 
: However, we could have a rec.aquaria.fresh, and rec.aquaria.salt, and this wa
: everyone will be happy! :)
: 
: [the same thing happened to rec.pets: the dog people got pissed off at cat ar
: and cat people at dog articles, and nwo there is rec.pets.cats, and rec.pets.
: dogs :)]
: --

I disagree.  Sure, raising salt vs fresh has lots of differences, but there
is enough that is similar to warrant keeping them together.  Also, it seems
many people have both.

-- 
Ross Livingston, Unisys Corp.  |  Phone   (801) 594-6217
322 North  2200 West,   D1V03  |  Fax     801-594-4861 / 801-594-6708
Salt Lake City, UT   84116     |  E-Mail  livings@unislc.slc.unisys.com
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: cliff@watson.ibm.com (cliff)
Subject: Too much of a good thing?  (No. 2)
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 13:15:54 GMT
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: A

My 110 gallon has 4 bright flourescent lights.  Can such a bright lighting 
system do "harm" to the fish (community tank).   Is it too bright?

When I go to work for the day, I leave the lights off.  The tank only 
gets dim light from a window across the room.  Would it be better
for the fish if I left 2 of the floursecent lights on all day while
I was at work, or is the dim light from across the room sufficient?
Thanks.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: kncarp@nicsn1.monsanto.com (Kevin N. Carpenter)
Subject: Re: Large Anemones
Organization: Monsanto Company
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL3
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 13:58:35 GMT

news@brian386.uucp (News Administrator) writes:
: I have recently acquired a large (10") maroon anemone, and a percula clown.
: The percula has begun to allow my pink-stripe skunk clown to share the
: anemone with him, although sometimes grudgingly.  My problem is:
: 	What should I feed the anemone?
: 

I have had signficant growth in my anemones feeding portions of cocktail
shrimp to them.  My 3 inch rock anemones have grown to over 5.5 inches in   
under 4 months based upon a diet of 1/2 peeled shrimp every week or two.
My carpet anemone use to get a whole one on the same schedule, but is now
on a diet since it got TOO big.  My smaller bubble anemone gets about a
1/4 shrimp and seems to be doing fine.  The only anemone I'm concerned about
is a Ritteri that just doesn't seem to be as healthy as it once was.  I 
suspect tank temperature has something to do with that however...

oh, just for clarity, these "cocktail shrimp" are the 3"-4" variety
commonly found (at least they are in the mid-west USA...) in Grocery
store seafood displays.  Although my anemones eat thawed once-frozen
shrimp - they really go nuts over fresh, never frozen ones.
--
Kevin Carpenter       Internet:  kncarp@nicsn1.monsanto.com
Monsanto Company      Fidonet:   1:100/215.0 (home)
St. Louis, Missouri, U.S.A.
Opinions expressed are those of the author, not the company he works for. 
From: booth@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (George Booth)
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 19:28:25 GMT
Subject: Re: The prettier the fish, the less hardy
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria

Dr. Gerald Allen reports that Australian Rainbowfish can live up to 
8 years in captivity and, if you get the right ones, are some of 
the most attractive freshwater fish around. 

------
George
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier)
Subject: Re: New Tank
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 92 16:37:25 GMT

Terry Gerritsen (terry@gtm-inc.com) wrote:
: I purchased a 35 gal tank about 6 weeks ago for a week and half I let
: the cycle begin, I then added 2 blue, 2 yellowtail, 2 stripe damsels.
: Everything was running okay, the cycle was going through the process as
: explained, when the level of nitrite and ammonia reached the highest I 
: noticed that the yellowtails were not as active. 
: Then the blues, and the stripes kept attacking them until finally they
: died. Now did they die from the level of nitrite and ammonia being to high
: or from the constent attacks they encountered.

This is a rather strange question, in that you seem to completely
understand what happened.  The yellowtails were weakened by the
poison in the water, and, damsels being damsels, the other fish
attacked and killed them.  The only comments one can add are (a) next
time you cycle a tank, don't do it with so many fish, (b) if
you want a fish to survive that is having trouble with ammonia/nitrite
poisoning, either do a water change or move the fish to a clean
hospital tank.

--
"They thought to use and shame me but I win out by nature, because a true
freak cannot be made.  A true freak must be born." - Geek Love

Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier
From: joslyn@ss1.interlan.com (Don Joslyn)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: (F)? How long will biological filter live after flow interruption?
Keywords: biological filter
Date: 13 Oct 92 20:32:58 GMT
Reply-To: joslyn@ss1.interlan.com
Followup-To: rec.aquaria
Organization: Racal-Datacom, Sunrise, FL

I established a 65 gallon fresh water tank 10 months ago, and populated it with
swordtails, plates and neons (about 40 fish). Everything has been going great.

My question is:

If the power to my outside filter and power heads is interrupted, how long
will the biological filter (present in the gravel) live?

Hurricane Andrew left my tank without power for 12 hours (I'm not complaining
here), and everything is still fine. No increase in ammonia or nitrites.

So... how long can the biological filter in the gravel live without water 
flowing through it?

P.S.	I assumed the outside filter was dead so I cleaned the foam and replaced
 	the charcoal and ammonia inserts.

---
Don Joslyn
Racal-Datacom			          Phone: (305) 846-6415
1601 N. Harrison Parkway                  INET : don@ss1.interlan.com
Sunrise, FL 33323-2899                    UUCP : ...uflorida!novavax!rm1!don
From: news@brian386.uucp (News Administrator)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Large Anemones
Date: 7 Oct 92 01:20:26 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: McCane Consulting

I have recently acquired a large (10") maroon anemone, and a percula clown.
The percula has begun to allow my pink-stripe skunk clown to share the
anemone with him, although sometimes grudgingly.  My problem is:
	What should I feed the anemone?

People at the pet store said that the skunk would take care of the feeding
but I am nervous.  I have tried KRILL-Etm, but it will hold it in its
tentacles for a while, then I leave and find it on the bottom of the
tank later.  That or the Arrowhead crab has it.  Will the clown feed the
anemone?  I feed mostly frozen brine, and now a KRILL-E every couple of
days (The other fish like it when the crab doesn't get it 8( ).

I guess I am just being nervous, the anemone fell off the wall today, and
I am afraid he might be getting weaker.  Up until today he has been at the
top of the tank.  Well anyway, any information will be gratefully accepted.

	brian
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: lee@convex.com (Gene W. Lee)
Subject: Re: Black Knife Ghost Fish
Organization: CONVEX Computer Corporation, Richardson, Tx., USA
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 11:37:48 GMT
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by a user at CONVEX Computer
              Corp. The opinions expressed are those of the user and
              not necessarily those of CONVEX.

In article <1992Oct12.125858.144137@watson.ibm.com> cliff@watson.ibm.com (cliff) writes:
>These questions regard a black knife ghost fish:		
>
>1. Can they eat flake food, and will they eat with the lights on?
Before I moved, I had one of these in my 55gal tank.  
He was a pig! the moment the food hit the
water it came darting out, sucking up all the flake food it could get.
>
>2. What temperature and pH do they like?
Regular.  By that I mean that my system of fish keeping (especially in my
fresh water tank) is squirt some declorinator in the 10 gallons of replacement
water, swish it around and through it in. Thermometer is set in the mid 70s.
No special treatment and the fish was about 5 years old when I had to give
it away.
>
>3. Can they exist in a community tank.
Typically it hid under a rock ledge and was peacefull.  I didn't like
other fish coming under its ledge though and would chase them off.
>
>4. The fish seems to hide behind a big chunk of reeform artificial coral
>rather then go into one of those clear plastic ghost fish "homes"
>designed for the fish.  If I want ever to see the fish again, should I
>get rid of the huge piece of artificial coral.

Reeforms in freshwater????

>
>5.  Rumor has it that one reason these fish like to go inside PVC tubes
>("Ghost fish homes") is because the fish is electrically sensitive and 
>the tube shields and damps lots of electrical currents in the surroundings.
>It creates an electrically calm environment.  Any truth to this rumor?
This is along the right lines, but I think it goes into tight areas because
it likes to 'feel' its surroundings and know that its not out in the open,
unprotected.


-- 
Gene W. Lee          lee@convex.com         +1 214 497 4733
Convex Computer Corporation                  ------- __o   
3000 Waterview Parkway                      ------ _`\<,_ 
Box 833851, Richardson,Tx,75083            ------ (*)/ (*)
From: jimh@ultra.com (Jim Hurley)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Fastest Fish??
Date: 15 Oct 92 19:03:37 GMT
Organization: Ultra Network Technologies

If you allow for freshwater fish, and stretch things a bit, I would
vote for the flying fish. 
-- 
Jim Hurley --> jimh@ultra.com  ...!ames!ultra!jimh  (408) 922-0100
Ultra Network Technologies / 101 Daggett Drive / San Jose CA 95134
From: brian@picasso.icd.teradyne.com (Brian Hunter)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [ALL] Use of Headers in posts
Date: 14 Oct 92 19:49:32 GMT
Organization: Teradyne, Inc. Boston MA

In article <23867@alice.att.com> jj@alice.UUCP (jj, curmudgeon and all-around grouch) writes:
>In article <92286.113659HCM100@psuvm.psu.edu> HCM100@psuvm.psu.edu writes:
>>PLEASE save us all time from having to sort through posts that don't
>>pertain to an individualsaquarium keeping preferences and use [F], [M],
>>[REEF],[DISCUS], whatever...
>
>Nooooooooooo!
>
>Please use (M), (F), and so on.  Some of our brain-dead  newsreaders
>aren't bright enough to deal with brackets in the header, and we can't
>kill all those [M], [Salt], [Reef], and so on articles that we don't care
>about,and some of you marine folks can't get rid of all those
>boring, old-hat [F] and [Beginner-F] articles that continually parade
>before you.

Did you try escaping them? Like /\[F\]/:j in your kill file.

Brian
From: jward@orion.oac.uci.edu (John Ward)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Large Anemones
Date: 9 Oct 92 19:42:35 GMT
Article-I.D.: news.2AD5E0AB.7209
Organization: University of California, Irvine

In article <BvrwD2.BEv@news.cso.uiuc.edu> Igor Livshits <igorl@uiuc.edu> writes:
>I bought a maroon clown (2-3 months) which bonded to the above anemone
>within 6 hours.  When I feed frozen shrimp to the tank, the clown makes
>an effort to grab a huge piece and run it to the anemone.   Since then,
>the anemone has doubled in size to about 9 or 10 inches in diameter.
>
>I'd say that the clown is making a special effort to feed the anemone.
>
>Igor

I see this feeding behavior in my clowns and anemone.  I think the
anemone feeding is just a side effect of the way the clowns eat.
They grab the largest piece and hurry back to the anemone.  Once there,
they spit the food out and start biting it into swallowable pieces.
If the food touches the anemone, it tries to eat it.  The clowns quickly
forget food once out of site.  Pieces not covered by tentacles are often
retrieved and consumed by the clowns. 

--
John Ward    UC Irvine, Department of Redundancy Department
email: jward@uci.edu or jward@uci.bitnet
     "Time flies like an eagle.  Fruit flies like a banana."
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: kncarp@nicsn1.monsanto.com (Kevin N. Carpenter)
Subject: Boret Heaters
Organization: Monsanto Company
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL3
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 23:28:56 GMT

Does anybody have any experience with Boret brand aquarium heaters?
After several years, my existing heating system has broke down and
I'm looking to replace it.  One FAMA ad indicates this heater is
"semi-submersible" - with a external sensor and an external temperature
adjustor.  Another ad indicates a control level of +/- 0.05 deg.

At $26.25 (from Superior Aquatic Technology), for the 350Watt model,
this seems to be a "Best Buy".  Has anybody had any problems ordering
from Superior Aquatic Technology?

--
Kevin Carpenter       Internet:  kncarp@nicsn1.monsanto.com
Monsanto Company      Fidonet:   1:100/215.0 (home)
St. Louis, Missouri, U.S.A.
Opinions expressed are those of the author, not the company he works for. 
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: cburns@ucs.indiana.edu (Chris Burns)
Subject: Big Air Pumps
Followup-To: rec.aquaria
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 16:33:04 GMT

I'm looking for an air pump to drive many tanks.  I've not got so many that
a blower would be a good way to go, so I'm thinking about a large pump.  I
want to drive multiple shallow (12") tanks.  I'm thinking about Whisper
1000, Supra 4, Dynamaster 2.  Does anyone out there know which pump will
move the most air volume?  I've heard the Dynamaster is a bit louder than
the others, anyone know how much louder?

Thanks,

Chris