HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib)
Subject: Re: Rocket powered R/C (Estes Astro Blaster)
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1993 21:21:21 GMT

In article <LARRY.93Jan2233956@peak.psl.nmsu.edu> larry@peak.psl.nmsu.edu (Evil Engineer doin' it the Cowboy Way) writes:

>I thought rocket power was expressly forbidden for R/C work by the AMA. Or
>is it just airplanes that shoot rockets?

Its planes that shoot rockets that are forbidden. 

I think the stipulation is a five pound weight limit and "G" total impulse
for an airplane that uses rocket motors as its primary means of propulsion. 
I was thinking that this would not include, say, huge scale C-130s with 
JATO packs, since the C-130 uses its engines for primary propulsion.

It would, I think, be interesting to add R/C Rocket Glider and Boost Glider
as R/C and Free Flight events.





-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Iskandar Taib                          | The only thing worse than Peach ala
Internet: NTAIB@SILVER.UCS.INDIANA.EDU |    Frog is Frog ala Peach
Bitnet:   NTAIB@IUBACS                 !
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: harris_r@wfooff.enet.dec.com
Subject: RC Plane Radio/Plus 4 Sale!
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 16:09:26 GMT

I am considering selling my Challenger 4 channel radio along with a
Hi Tech field charger, RX, Two mini servos, one regular servo and
a Monokote application iron.  All this for $125.00.  Firm.  Since I
paid a lot more for all of this, I will not consider less.

Price DOES include shipping.  Payment terms are as follows:

Upon receipt of money order, I will ship UPS 
Upon receipt of a personal check, I will clear the check through my 
back and ship once check is cleared via UPS.

The radio is in new conditon.  Original boxes/manuals etc.  The field
charger is in good condition and has the original box/manual.

I almost forgot, I have two 6 cell nicads that I will throw in as part
of the deal. 

Ron
From: rbono@necis.UUCP (Rich)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: First Trainer Questions
Date: 22 Dec 92 17:30:26 GMT
Organization: still seeking it

In article <1992Dec21.193105.23918@kronos.com>, ed@kronos.com (Ed Baker) wrote:
> Opinion seems pretty much split on the OS-40 FP ($70) vs. OS-46 SF ($140)
> for a first .40 size trainer plane.  I suggest the OS-40 FP.  This engine
> is plenty strong enough for a .40 size trainer, and is 1/2 the price.
> 
> Please consider that your first plane will crash.  The engine is going to
> eat dirt.  Why risk a nice engine on it?  Your trainer plane and engine are
> for learning how to fly.  Included in this is learning how to set the fuel
> mixture on the engine.  Many beginners run their engines too lean and wreck
> them.  Why risk a nice engine?  

 I'd like to add a little to this.  I was at the same decision point a year
or so ago.  I was looking for the 'proper' engine (wouldn't it be easier if
there was just a choice of one!?!?) for my trainer.  The plane was a .40
sized Skyward 40 (a great trainer... ARF). I decided to go with the less
expensive engine, because... a trainer is probably going to eat dirt sooner
or later.

  Well, My compromize was to go with an 'off' brand.  This way I was able to
get a Ball bearing, ABC, .46 engine for the price of the 40 FP.  I think
I payed $80ish for a "SkyWard .46" (I think the Royal .46 is the same engine).
I am very happy with this choice.  The engine has plenty of power.  Starts
well.  And is fairly quiet too.

 So, if you want the features of the better engine, but don't want to spend
that much money on an engine that might be lost in a crash, try one of these.

 By the way, this engine has survived a couple of mis-haps.  One was a
direct hit (nose-first) into a chain link fence on a "oops, I'm too low"
landing approach.  And another direct hit (nose-first AGAIN) into a tree
when I had a radio failure (REALLY!! The aileron was stuck at full throw).
It was impressive to see that the spinner cone had been compressed straight
back!  It didn't even crack, it was just kind of 'smushed in'.  I have seen
other OS engines break their carburator during less impressive crashes (this
doesn't mean much).

 I think in the end, whatever you choose will probably work fine.  It is
amazing how many people will tell you whatever "THEY" used for their first
plane is the "best" combination! (me too!).

 Rich
-- 
 /**************************************************************************\
 * Rich Bono                     IMRICH         UUCP:rbono@necis.ma.nec.com * 
 * (508) 635-6300                 NM1D          AMPR: nm1d@nm1d.nh.usa.noam * 
 \**************************************************************************/
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: petera@bcars630.UUCP (Peter Ashwood-Smith)
Subject: Re: Updating radios to narrow band
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Ottawa, Canada
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 14:01:55 GMT

In article <78656@hydra.gatech.EDU>, gt4902a@prism.gatech.EDU (Chris 'John Smoltz' Johnson) writes:
|> I have a Futaba 6NLK that I bought just before the narrow band rules
|> went into effect a few years ago.  Does anyone know the address to 
|> Futaba that I can right to get my radio converted?   I would like to 
|> fly next season or there after.
|> 
   Your transmitter is fine it is the receiver you want to upgrade. The best and least expensive solution is to buy a receiver from RCD HITEC. They work just fine, and are half the price of the Futaba receivers. Just pick up the phone with credit card in hand and order one on the same freq as you xmitter. I was flying a 7??K FM and getting glitches and 
changed over to an RCD HITEC receiver and have not had a glitch since. 

    My only complaint about HITEC is that they sent me the wrong frequency the first time and insisted on waiting until they received my returned receiver before shipping a new one. I would up paying twice and then getting a refund.

    Peter
From: andyhunt@mrcnext.cso.uiuc.edu (Andrew Hunt)
Subject: Submarine plans?
Summary: Does anyone knows where I can get plans to build a sub?
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 17:20:48 GMT
Keywords: submarine

Does anyone know where I can get plans to build a rc submarine?

I'm also interested in talking to anyone who has ever built one 
from scatch...

Andrew Hunt
andyhunt@mrcnext.cso.uiuc.edu

Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: svoboda@rtsg.mot.com (David Svoboda)
Subject: Re: Light Covering...
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 19:24:55 GMT

In article <BztyrF.22A@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu> ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib) writes:
|In article <2569@rnivh.rni.sub.org> torsten@rnivh.rni.sub.org (Torsten Leibold) writes:
|>dqwelch@sgidq4.sdrc.com (Mike Welch) writes:
|
|>>I was wondering what kind of covering material to use?  I realize
|>>that Monokote is too heavy.  I have used some stuff called
|>>Flite Cote.  It was light, but not very strong.
|
|>>Would tissue and dope be advised?  Any other advice?
|
|>No !! Don't use tissue like silk or nylon if you'd like to get a light
|>covering. It needs vast amounts of paint to get enough tension and
|>that will make the covering much heavier than any film covering.
|
|I disagree. Nylon or silk may not be awfully light, but Silkspan is. 
|The amount of dope needed to fill the tissue isn't much and the covering
|adds a huge amount of stiffness to the structure.

Well, I'll add this: silk can be light, if you know what you're doing.  The
last airplane I completed, a Sig Skybolt, is silked.  When I told fellow club
members that I intended to silk the plane, all of them, to a man, told me
that I was looking for trouble, that my plane would never fly `cause it
would weight ten pounds.  It weighs six pounds, full up.  The covering,
including color paint, is lighter than Monokote would have been.  And it
lends MUCH more structural integrity, and is completely fuel-proof.  The
technique for making silk light is rather involved, and takes a lot of
work, but it is quite possible.

Oh, if you cover using Nitrate dope, then fill with one coat of Nitrate then
only white butyrate (the white fills better, and weighs no more than clear)
for filler, tension is no problem.  My open wing structures are drum tight
(tighter than Monokote gets) and *will not* sag.  The white areas have a
total of four light coats of dope, the red and black areas have five.

It also looks and feels *wonderful*.

			Dave Svoboda, Palatine, IL
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: mckee@fc.hp.com (Bret Mckee)
Subject: Re: First Trainer Questions
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 18:07:12 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Fort Collins Site
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.3 PL6]

Martin Gallant (martyg@bnr.ca) wrote:
: I have narrowed down the engine selection to the OS.40FP (~$70) and the
: OS.46SF (~$140), the latter strongly recommended by my local hobby shop.
: Do I need to be messing around with ball-bearing engines for my first
: plane, or is a plain bushing motor adequate?  I am prepared to spend
: whatever time is required for break-in on a test bench.

I find it interesting that the responses are about 50-50 WRT the engine.
As a new flyer this spring, I put a .40FP on my trainer.  I must have good
instructors, because ~75 solo takeoff/landings later it still has 
not crashed.

About halfway through the summer I got a .46SF ABC for my second plane, 
and decided to break it in on the trainer.  It definitely has lots more
power than the .40, and pulls my trainer much better.  I am at altitude 
(~5000 ft) though, so we have less power here than you might there.

If I had it do to again I would buy that .46 to start with, but hindsight
is perfect vision, and I know that I'm not going to mess it up in a crash
right away (although I won't bet on my second plane :-)


Good luck either way,

Bret
From: macs@worke.Eng.Sun.COM (This IS a test)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Light Covering...
Date: 27 Dec 1992 08:52:14 GMT
Organization: Sun
NNTP-Posting-Host: worke

In article <BztyrF.22A@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu> ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib) writes:
>In article <2569@rnivh.rni.sub.org> torsten@rnivh.rni.sub.org (Torsten Leibold) writes:
>>dqwelch@sgidq4.sdrc.com (Mike Welch) writes:
>
>>>I was wondering what kind of covering material to use?  I realize
>>>that Monokote is too heavy.  I have used some stuff called
>>>Flite Cote.  It was light, but not very strong.
>
>>>Would tissue and dope be advised?  Any other advice?
>
>>No !! Don't use tissue like silk or nylon if you'd like to get a light
>>covering. It needs vast amounts of paint to get enough tension and
>>that will make the covering much heavier than any film covering.
>
>I disagree. Nylon or silk may not be awfully light, but Silkspan is. 
>The amount of dope needed to fill the tissue isn't much and the covering
>adds a huge amount of stiffness to the structure.
>
Japanese tissue is even lighter. Modelers have been covering free-flight
and other models with tissue and dope for years.  It is still the
prefered covering method for the majority of Free-flight models.
Silkspan is stronger (even in the lightest grade), but is a little
heavier.  From 3-4 coats of thined dope (50-50 dope/thiner) should be
enough to weather-proof and fill the grain when using tissue or
light weight Silkspan.

By the way, Japanese tissue is not the same stuff you get at the crafts 
store.  Look in the model magazines for sources if your local hobby shop
doesn't have any.

>>Your only chance is to find a light film. I usually use Solarfilm by
>>robbe for such purposes. But I think that it's too expensive when it
>>reached USA....
>
>You can get Solarfilm from Indy R/C. Its cheaper than Monokote, something
>like $5 a roll. Problem is that it isn't a film that adds much stiffness 
>to the wing.
>
>If I were you I'd investigate the Mylar gift wraps available at KMart 
>and Target. These caught my eye a few weeks ago and I bought some. Its
>a little expensive for Combat so I might not use much of it but it is
>honest-to-goodness mylar - very strong. (Careful though - some colors 
>might not be. The irridescent "Opal" film isn't) It is quite a bit 
>lighter than Monokote and you will have to brush on Balsarite or use 
>3M77 to attach it.
>
>
If you really want to use an iron-on film find some clear Micafilm
and attach it with Balsarite.  I have talked to a few Hand-Launched
R/C glider afficionados and they say that it is the lightest iron
on covering you can use. Make sure it is the clear stuff, not white.

The only glider I have ever heard of in this weight class (R/C) was
a design called the Whisper that appeared in Model Builder magazine
some years back. I don't remember what issue, but I am sure the people
there will help you locate it.  The specs were something like 60"
wingspan, and approximately 2.9 oz/sq ft.  I don't remember the 
total weight, but it was light. The article specified a tissue/dope
covering, by the way.

Manuel.
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: mbrown@crl.dec.com (Mark Brown)
Subject: Help needed: off-roader trying 1/12 4-cell carpet racing
Organization: DEC Cambridge Research Lab
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 14:54:28 GMT


I am an experienced racer of 1/10 electric off-road cars.  Having 
moved from the San Francisco Bay area to the Boston area I find that 
there is not much happening near here when it comes to indoor off-road 
racing. There is a nearby oval track that's just starting to race 
1/12 4-cell cars on carpet in the infield of the oval track.  I'm 
thinking of giving it a try. 

I'm looking for advice about how to get started:

    12L versus 12LW, fiberglass versus graphite: Which is easiest to
    learn to set up to handle consistently?

    Are there some aftermarket parts that are not too expensive but 
    make the car easier to set up or more reliable?

    What tires/traction compound should I start with?

    Can I do OK for awhile with 48 pitch gears or must I spring immediately 
    for 64 pitch?  I have a large set of 48 pitch pinions from off-road.

    What is a good stock motor for 1/12 4-cell racing?  What brushes/springs 
    do you run?  How is it geared (approximately)?  Should I run 
    SCRC or P-170 cells? 

    Are there any good books that explain this stuff?

Thanks,

    --mark
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: piper@bach.udel.edu (Jon Malenfant)
Subject: Plans
Organization: University of Delaware
Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1993 05:15:57 GMT

	I have been flying a Super Kaos 40 for about two years now
	and I want to build a very light fast plane to just play
	with.  What are everyones/anyones opinions on a Big Stik?

	I am not looking for appearance AT ALL.  I am just looking
	for something that will build fast and fly very well.

	Also, I would appreciate some feedback on the Sticks
	inverted flight because 3-4 foot inverted fly-by's is one
	of my favorite things to do.  The Kaos is excellent for
	that!

	Thanks for any assistance.

-- 
*********************************************************************
*  Jon R. Malenfant     "Nothing in the world compares to flying!"  * 
*  piper@bach.udel.edu         piper@freezer.cns.udel.edu           *
*********************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: fhage@rap.ucar.edu (Frank Hage)
Subject: out of control
Organization: NCAR, Research Applications Program
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 21:43:00 GMT

RE: No control after launch. Surfaces still.  Worked before and after.

From the symptoms mentioned it sounds like (in order of likelyhood);

1. You forgot to turn on the transmitter or receiver. 
1a. You picked up the wrong transmitter or forgot to extend the antenna.
2. A loose or bad wire at one of the connectors or in the battery pack.
3. A broken wire in the power leads, connectors or antenna.
4. A dirty or broken on/off switch.
5. A poor solder joint in the TX, Receiver, or switch.


#1 happens more often than you might think. After doing #1 3 times in
my first year of flying I *ALWAYS* do a surface movement check (full
and unrestricted movement, proper *direction* and centering) right
before I let go of the plane. Make sure the on/off switch is nowhere
near where your launch hand sits on the model. Always turn on the model
at least one minute before you plan to launch, in case the batteries
are dead. "Dead" NiCads often have a few 10's of seconds of capacity
after being unused for awhile.

If you'd stake your life it wasn't #1, you probably shouldn't fly that
model until you can pinpoint the problem. Go through the list above, in
order, paying special attention to where the wires enter the connectors
or cases.  Often a wire's conductor breaks right at the connector,
leaving the insulator intact.  Often, the result is intermittant
conductor contact. Make sure to shake and pull at everything, when
trying to find the problem. Never assume there's only one problem,
often if there's one "bad" connection, there's more.


-Frank Hage. National Center for Atmospheric Research. Boulder, Colorado.
From: bentonh@tekig1.PEN.TEK.COM (Benton Holzwarth)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: out of control!
Date: 28 Dec 92 19:21:18 GMT
Reply-To: Benton.Holzwarth@tek.com
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Beaverton,  OR.

In article <1hnbe4INNhmb@austin2.hal.COM> chenq@hal.COM (QiFan Chen) writes:
> This Sunday, the radio failed just I tossed the
>plane out on a slope. I observed that the fin and the elevator kept in the
>neutral position in the air. They did not respond to Tx stick movement at all.
>I did check the radio and tested the servos before the launch.

    My latest radio problem turned out (apparently) to be a loose
tx antenna. Radio is an Airtronics VG6DR (Vangard 6ch FM). After
flying just fine in the preceeding days, for one session the servo
action went very flakey. They'd work fine for a while, then suddenly
spaz out, screwing back and forth from rail to rail. Then quiet
down and track the sticks again. (This in an HLG, so you can rule out
vibration in the rx...)

    At home, I noticed that the buzz in an AM broadcast radio I was
listening to also shifted around erratically, in sync with the servo,
fluctuations, indicating that it was the tx.

    As I took the case off the tx, I noticed that the antenna was loose,
but exposed the boards to check for hairline cracks, bad solder joints,
loose connectors, etc. Finding no problems in any of those areas, I
cleaned the mating parts of the antenna base/stud, and the bracket
soldered to the RF section, and put it all back together.

    It's worked fine since.

>Anysuggestions as how to prevent this from happening?

    Always check that the antenna is screwed in tight, before each
launch.


    Benton.Holzwarth@tek.com


Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: cstone@nodecg.ncc.telecomwa.oz.au (Charlie Stone 4915162)
Subject: Re: Engine problems 
Organization: Network Computer Centre, Telecom, Perth
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 01:43:51 GMT

In article <725976649snz@harrier.demon.co.uk> bob@harrier.demon.co.uk writes:
>
>
> Re crashed FOX
>
> make sure fuel comes out of the carb.. Although I haven't seen a fox motor,
> I would be surprised if the needle valve should have a bit of metal on the
> end, it should be a smooth taper to a point...

Dont be surprised by unusual design features of FOX engines; Duke tried
lots of variations on the theme and most worked real well.  I have seen
seen FOX needle valves (Control Line) with a little cross shaped end
where you would normally see a point.  It was used to hold the needle
truly central in the spraybar.  This may have something like that.

Charlie Stone,
Perth, Western Australia.
From: menchett@pyramid.unr.edu (Peter J Menchetti)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: RC Car FOR SALE: COMPLETE KIT
Date: 18 Dec 92 09:35:30 GMT
Organization: University of Nevada, Reno  Department of Computer Science

I have a Losi JrxPro Se for sale... with everything.
Tekin charger
Motors up the yinyang
Tekin Speed Control
Futaba Radio
3 or 4 scr packs
lots of BRAND NEW parts.

Will sell to highest bidder... bid via mail please. <menchett@cs.unr.edu>
bidding starts at $250.
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: rhk2j@csissun14.ee.Virginia.EDU (Robert H. Klenke)
Subject: Re: Electric starters for airplanes (Built in).
Followup-To: rec.models.rc
Keywords: electric starter
Reply-To: rhk2j@csissun14.ee.Virginia.EDU (Robert H. Klenke)
Organization: University of Virginia
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 15:06:06 GMT

In article <22949@drutx.ATT.COM>, chuck@drutx.ATT.COM (LucianoC) writes:
|> Okay, I want to build a 1/3 scale airplane, and I want it to have a built
|> in starter motor. The plane has a nine foot wingspan and oodles of
room in the
|> cowl available. I'd like to find an electric starter that will work
with
|> a Super Tigre 4500.
|> 
|> Any Ideas?
|> 
|> [stuff deleted]
|> 
|> Chuck Luciano
|> chuck@csn.org

	Hobby Lobby makes a built in starter, but I don't think its big enough
for an ST4500. You should check it out and see.

	I saw an electric starter for large scale engines at the East Coast
Regional IMAA Fly-In in October. It was made by a company called Likes
Line.
I don't have their address or number, but they advertize in the IMAA
magazine,
High Flight. They demo'ed their system on a Zenoah G38, so it should be
able
to turn over an ST4500. The question is, do they make a version that
fits it?
I don't know.

Bob Klenke
UVA
From: dqwelch@sgidq4.sdrc.com (Mike Welch)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: North East Sailplane Products  address
Date: 28 Dec 92 14:01:14 GMT
Organization: SDRC

I mentioned NE Sailplane Products and someone asked for the address/phone: 

I got this out of Model Builder Magazine (Sep 91) : 

NE Sailplane Products
16 Kirby Lane
Williston, VT 05495

or call : (802) 658-9482
				Thanks,

				Mike

******************************************************************************
  Mike Welch                 * "Gun laws go against Darwin's Theory.
  SDRC                       *  Let stupid people kill each other."
  2000 Eastman Drive         * 
  Milford, Ohio 45150        * "Governments should not mandate the
  Tel: (513) 576-2514        *  use of safety belts.  Let Natural
  Email: Mike.Welch@sdrc.com *  Selection work."  - me
******************************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: bob@harrier.demon.co.uk (Bob day)