HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: axman@acadia.Kodak.COM (Mike Axman)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Displaying slides on a TV ??
Date: 11 Sep 92 12:54:37 GMT
Organization: Eastman Kodak Co., Rochester, NY

In article <1992Sep10.160325.1@ducvax.auburn.edu>, swanger@ducvax.auburn.edu writes:
>Is there a cheap, easy way to display slides on a television set (besides
>using the TV as a screen for a slide projector).
>
>Thanks in advance,
>-- 

Before I jump on my Photo CD soapbox, let me say that there are quite a 
few devices out there for this purpose, but you may not find them very 
"cheap and easy".  In particular, I remember seeing a device made by 
Tamron called the "FOTOVIX" system which looked like a little microscope
and provided various kinds of video signals from negatives and positives.
The list price was over a $1000 for the basic system, but that could be
significantly cheaper now (2 years later), and I'm sure that there are 
probably other competitors who have similar devices.


....PHOTO CD mode on

That being said, I truly believe that the Photo CD system is the beast 
you're looking for.  Lechmere has players for under $400 which will 
play both audio and Photo CDs.  Additionally, the Photo CD system 
allows for more of a "slide show" presentation than the Fotovix, since
you can put 100+ images on a single CD, and then zoom/rotate/etc..
the image to suit you.  Future upgrades will also allow you to append
audio & text with each image, and/or provide continuous audio concurrent
with the image display.
Although the current player is engineered for current television standards,
the data recorded on the Photo CD is "HDTV ready" when those devices 
become generally available.  Additionally, you can read the data into 
a computer using a CD-ROMxa drive, and/or get digital prints of 
manipulated images.

....PHOTO CD mode off

Anyway, most of the folks here have heard this all before.
Call 1-800-242-2424 x51 if you have anymore questions, or email me.

thanks,
mike


>David Swanger,   Auburn University, Alabama,   swanger@ducvax.auburn.edu 

-- 
Mike Axman  
CD-Imaging Advanced Development
Eastman Kodak Company
axman@acadia.kodak.com



DISCLAIMER:
Kodak gives me this Net access for free, but they aren't responsible for my postings.
From: jack@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk (Jack Campin)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Field Cameras
Date: 15 Sep 92 16:41:00 GMT
Reply-To: jack@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk (Jack Campin)
Organization: COMANDOS Project, Glesga Yoonie

rwt@ohm.york.ac.uk (Richard Taylor) wrote:
> What would those people experienced in 5x4 (and larger) recommend
> for a budget (is there such a thing ?) field camera for soemone with
> some medium format experience but nothing larger ?

Most people posting about large format here are from the US, so they will
probably miss what is by far the most popular and reasonably priced option
in the UK: the British-made MPP (Micro Precision Products) technical
cameras.  These went up to Mark VIII before MPP went bust; they also made a
monorail (and a TLR, which you do *not* want to know about).  Now, I
haven't used one of these, and don't know what features the various models
had, but so many of them were sold that they can't have been too bad; they
far outnumber all other makes of view camera in the UK put together.  If
you look in magazines like Amateur Photographer you'll see them advertised
every week, and you should be able to compare several of them if you trawl
the second-hand camera shops in London.  Expect to get one with a 135mm
Xenar and a few DDS's for less than 500 pounds.  I once saw one advertised
in a local exchange and mart paper for 25 pounds, but was too late phoning
for it.

Why do all the large format people on this newsgroup loathe Tachiharas?

-- 
--  Jack Campin    room G092, Computing Science Department, Glasgow University,
17 Lilybank Gardens, Glasgow G12 8RZ, Scotland   TEL: 041 339 8855 x6854 (work)
INTERNET: jack@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk or via nsfnet-relay.ac.uk    FAX: 041 330 4913
BANG!net: via mcsun and uknet     BITNET: via UKACRL    UUCP: jack@glasgow.uucp
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: sturnbul@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Stephen J Turnbull)
Subject: Re: Time to boycott Photo CD
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 23:13:56 GMT

     The whole point of the FSF and, as I understand it, the LPF, is that
people will indeed go on programming without a vested interest in it.  If
that's not so, the FSF and LPF will die ignominiouoousoos (sp?) deaths.
I don't think they will.
    Similarly, I'm sure there are lots of people working for Kodak
and MicroLimp and Big Bleu who espouse the company lines without a "vested
interest."  Of course, the earlier posts regarding Kodak's actual policy
are sufficient evidence.  (Sorry about lack of proper citation, but I've
just moved environments and have forgotten how to make Unix work *for* me
---dunno how to escape this editor and find it :-)
    Judge not, lest ye be judged.
    Or, more charitably on my part, if you're gonna flame to "the other
readers," go ahead and try to convince Mr. A too.  It doesn't take that
much effort.  Especially since some of us (I'm a professional economist)
sympathize with a lot of the arguments of the corporate culture.  (I
happen to disagree with my own sympathies here... ;-)
--
Steve Turnbull / Skinny Boy Associates /Social Engineers
"Revolutions fomented or aborted, new societies designed."
From: shizgal@vax2.concordia.ca (PETER SHIZGAL)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: RE: Professional Labs in Montreal
Date: 12 Sep 92 03:31:00 GMT
Organization: Concordia University
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <07SEP92.24965056.0015@VM.MPG.MCGILL.CA>, CCGM@MUSICM.MCGILL.CA (CCGM000) writes...
>In article <05SEP92.13714494.0051@vmxa.polymtl.ca> DH02 <DH02@polytec1.polymtl.ca> writes:
>>Hi folks!
>>
>>Would any kind reader from the city of Montreal (the one in Quebec)
>>be able to recommend me to a professional photo-lab where I could
>>get manually printed enlargements (8x10's etc.), preferably down-town
>>(centre-ville) or around.  

I agree with the positive assessment of Corlab that has been given in several
postings.  An alternative worth considering (IMHO) is

	Champion
	425 Guy (south of Notre Dame)
	937-3918
	
Chapion's prices are lower than Corlab's and, in my experience, the quality of
their work and their service is very good.

==============================================================================
| Peter Shizgal			       | CSBN, Concordia University          |
| Shizgal@CSBN1.Concordia.CA           | Montreal, Quebec, Canada H3G 1M8    |
==============================================================================
From: bc@Apple.COM (bill coderre)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: red slides
Date: 8 Sep 92 18:30:53 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: Apple Computer Inc, Cupertino, CA

filippo@felix.ma.utexas.edu (Filippo Cesi) writes:
|I recentely came back from a trip, had my slides (Ektachrome 400) developed
|and ... disaster... they are completely ruined. There is red everywhere,
|in places where you would rather see greens, blues, yellows and all the
|other nice colors.

If the slides look like black and white over a solid dark red color,
then the problem could be that someone put your film thru the
black-and-white machine instead of the color one.

There is no "cure" for the problem, I'm afraid, but you should be able
to get the photo company to give you some free film and processing
credits.

They unfortunately probably cannot be convinced to give you plane
tickets.

bill coderre
yes, it happened to me
MORAL of my story: Never re-use 4x5 film boxes for other than the kind
of film listed on the outstide! Never!
From: cgates@mitre.org (Curt Gates)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Solarol Developer for Solarizing/Sabattier
Date: 8 Sep 92 16:00:38 GMT
Organization: The MITRE Corporation

I found the info sheet on Solarol developer, which is specially formulated 
to enhance the Sabattier effect.  The product is made by:

Acufine Inc.
5441 N. Kedzie Ave.
Chicago, IL 60625

The info sheet suggests the following experiment to show the unique 
qualities of the developer:

Prepare a tray of Solarol alongside a tray of any other print developer.  
Expose two sheets of Agfa Brovira #6 to the same negative in the enlarger. 
 Make both exposures the same, but about one third less than normal 
exposure.  Place one exposed sheet in each of the trays at the same time.  
Develop them face up for about 40 seconds. Then turn on the overhead white 
light and leave it on.  Watch the two prints for at least 60 seconds 
before transferring them to the stop bath and fix.  Compare the two 
prints.  The one developed in Solarol will be solarized, while the other 
will be dark and muddy, if not black.

The print will ot fog or turn black even with prolonged development, and 
there is no need to snatch it from the developer quickly. The active 
presence of the developer on the print at the time of re-exposure is 
necessary for the best results.

Another interesting application:

Gentle solarization is a technique which allows fine tuning of the print 
tonal values.  It is done by adjusting the first exposure to give the 
wanted detail in the shadow areas, then re-exposing just jenough to bring 
up  the wanted detail in the highlights.  In other words, the first 
exposure controls the shadows. The second exposure controls the 
highlights. Print exposure should be slightly less than normal, but first 
development is about one minute.  Re-exposure with a 10 watt bulb is 
continuous until the desired effect is acheived.  A #4 or 5 grade paper is 
often needed.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: wave@media.mit.edu (Michael B. Johnson)
Subject: reciprocity info?
Organization: MIT Media Laboratory
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 11:09:17 GMT

Does anyone know where I would get the reciprocity info for Kodak's
Ektar 25, 100, and 1000 film?

Thanks.


-- 

-->  Michael B. Johnson
-->  MIT Media Lab      --  Computer Graphics & Animation Group
-->  (617) 253-0663     --  wave@media-lab.media.mit.edu
From: marlon@milpa.EBay.Sun.COM (Marlon Pearson)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Problem with Pentax SF-1
Date: 6 Sep 1992 17:00:10 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.  Mt. View, Ca.
Distribution: ba
Reply-To: marlon@milpa.EBay.Sun.COM (Marlon Pearson)
NNTP-Posting-Host: milpa.ebay.sun.com

I have a 4-5 year old Pentax SF-1 that has recently been giving
me problems. Normal operations in autofocus mode is that I press
the shutter button half way down and the camera will focus itself and
display information with the viewfinder. Press it the rest of the way
and it takes the picture.
Sometimes when I push the shutter button down none of the
led readouts show in the viewfinder. It is as if the battery is dead
or the camera does not sense that I have depressed the shutter button.
If I press the button all the way down the shutter opens and remains
open for an extended period (3+ seconds even in clear sunlight).
On the next picture it may do the same thing or it may function
correctly. I have replaced the battery so I don't think that
is the problem. 

Any ideas on the cause of this behavior ?
Is this a known problem with the SF-1 ? 
Can I fix it myself (I doubt it) ?
Where in the south bay area is a reliable repair shop ?

Thanks,
Marlon
marlon@EBay.Sun.COM
From: dp10@mc4adm.UWaterloo.ca (Derek Kirkland)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Pentax PZ-1 class questions
Date: 10 Sep 92 12:50:54 GMT
Organization: University of Waterloo

I can answer a couple of the questions:

Pentax auto focus lenses are fully compatible with your MX body.
Your older non-auto focus lenses are usable on the PZ-1 in manual focus mode.

One Pentax auto focus lens that I highly recommend is the
 Pentax F 300 f4.5 IF-ED lens - it is extremely sharp, has a very solid
 L shaped tripod mount, is easy to set to manual focus or auto focus by
 moving a single ring and has a large manual focus ring. It also will 
 focus down to 6.5 feet.

Keep your MX as a backup to the PZ-1. It's a very reliable camera, doesn't
use many batteries and is small enough to be convenient. 

I did run in to a PZ-1 user who stated that the PZ-1 does not work well in
extreme cold. She used her Pentax LX in winter instead of the PZ-1.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: asadigh@rodan.acs.syr.edu (sadigh)
Subject: gray-market question
Organization: Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 92 11:46:13 EDT

Would someone shed some light on the issue of "gray-market" when dealing
with mail order companies.  This question was inspired when I was reading  
someone's experinces regarding mail oredrs.

Beejan

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: sgccpgs@citec.oz.au (Paul Salanitri)
Subject: Re: t-Max Films
Organization: CITEC
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 05:38:12 GMT

Sil.Horwitz@p8.f18.n363.z1.fidonet.org writes:
:  VA->  Has anyone tried using D-76,1-1 with the T-Max films?  My 
:  VA->  wife hand processes it regularly and the results are quite 
:  VA->  good.
: 
: I have been using D-76, 1:1, for decades, and it's the best developer around
: EXCEPT for T-Max. Never could get it to work right. I shifted over to T-Max
: developer and immediately my T-Max negs met specs. To ease the pain of cost,
: the T-Max developer has a very long shelf life! How are you using D-76 to get 
: the good results with T-Max films? <<sil>>
: 
: --- msged 1.99S ZTC
I have been using TMAX developer on TMAX 100 and was not impressed by the grain
I then did one with D-76 straight and got better grain (fluke perhaps, but I
shall see)

Also, what is the best developer to use to get the FINEST grain possible on 
TMAX-100,  I don't mind exposing at 25 even if I have to.

Thanks in advance.

--

==========================================================================
 Paul Salanitri                               sgccpgs@citec.oz.au
  P.O. Box 12702, Elizabeth Street, Brisbane QLD 4002, AUSTRALIA
   Committee for the Liberation and Intergration of Terrifying 
         Organisms and their Rehabilitation Into Society
             E quindi uscimmo a riveder le stelle.  
==========================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: imprint@watserv1.uwaterloo.ca (IMPRINT -- UW's Student Newspaper)
Subject: Black's film - close to Fuji?
Organization: University of Waterloo
Distribution: na
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1992 17:18:09 GMT

Who makes colour film for Black's Camera. I heard it was fuji, but
was wondering whether it is the same thing under a different name.
The reason I ask is that I recently had to shoot a bunch of it and was
pleasantly surprised at the results. ie I shot activities on a misty
overcast morning and got back crisp, bright, and relatively intense
colours.
Comments, anyone?

- Dave T.

--
From: madler@vssad.enet.dec.com (Michael C. Adler)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: T-Max versus Plus-X/Tri-X
Date: 15 Sep 92 15:21:46 GMT
Reply-To: madler@vssad.enet.dec.com (Michael C. Adler)
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation


> What is the advantage or disadvantage to T-Max 100/400 over Plus-X/Tri-X?
> I am just starting B&W photography, and plan on processing myself.  Is T-Max
> any harder to work with, or just better quality for more money?

You are bound to get as many opionions as replies to this question.  Some
people find the density curves of the older films more pleasing.  Others
prefer the straighter response of T-Max.  Since I shoot 35mm I prefer
T-Max due to significantly finer grain.  If I were shooting larger negatives
this might not be such an issue.

Why not just try them?  You could choose a developer adequate for all of
them, for starters (e.g. D-76).  As long as you shoot similar subjects
I suspect you won't have much trouble finding differences between the films.

-Michael

P.S.  If you are reasonably careful with processing, T-Max is not a serious
      problem.  I use tanks, agitating by hand, and get consistent results.
      I used to get surge marks near the sprockets but switching
      from T-Max developer to Ilfotech-HC with less vigorous inversion
      eliminated that problem.  I did both at the same time so I don't know
      which solved the problem.
From: chen@marilyn.usc.edu (Chih-Tung Chen)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Need help on purchasing a Canon SLR camera
Date: 15 Sep 1992 14:28:16 -0700
Organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: marilyn.usc.edu
Keywords: Canon

Hi netters:

I'm sorry if this is a FAQ. I'm thinking purchasing a SLR camera.
I am not very serious on photographing, but I would like to have a
general purpose SLR camera which is more versatile than those
point-and-shoot cameras. One of my friends recommended the Canon
Rebel S II kit, which seems to be the most cost effective choice for
me. However, I would like to have more advice from all of you.
First of all, my budge is around $400(+/- $50).

1. Is this kit a good buy? (price is just around $400 for 35-80mm
lens)?
2. If yes, should I buy the one with 35-135mm lens or spend more money
on a good Ultra Sonic len such as (28mm-80mm) with the Rebel S II body?
3. Is there any other good choices from Nikon, Cannon or Minolta that
you will recommend?

Thanks in advance

Chen
From: U21709@uicvm.uic.edu (Prasad Ravi)
Newsgroups: rec.photo,bit.listserv.photo-l,bit.listserv.chemistry
Subject: slide shots of computer graphics using an SLR camera
Date: 11 Sep 92 22:16:49 GMT
Organization: University of Illinois at Chicago

Hi folks,

I am trying to find out various issues involved in taking
pictures of a computer screen for molecular modeling graphics.
Some of the details of the computer screen:

           19" screen (IBM 6091-19)
           scan rate:  60 frames/sec
           resolution: 1024x1280

I have an SLR camera (Pentax P30T) with a 28-80mm zoom lens with
a minimum focus distance of 1 meter.  I would like to know the
following details:

           film type
           film speed
           aperture size/shutter speed
           flash/no flash
           lighting conditions, etc.

I greatly appreciate your help. Please send any responses to
u21709@uicvm.cc.uic.edu. I'll post a summary if there is enough
interest.

Prasad Ravi.
u21709@uicvm.cc.uic.edu
From: rune@cimsand.UUCP (Rune Riisnaes)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: How rugged is F601/6006 ?
Date: 9 Sep 92 08:39:02 GMT
Organization: Cimage A.S, Sandvika, Norway.
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4

margulis@inf.ethz.ch (Eugene Margulis) writes:
: What experiences do you have with ruggedness/reliability of F601?
: (or F801/8008, I guess they have very similar bodies)

: With the electronics of F601 I am worried of "catastrofic failures" 
: when nothing works rather than "graceful degradation" when the
: camera is still usable.

The last year I've shot about 200 rolls with my F801s/8008s, with the 
following problems:

Twice the electronics deadlocked; none of the controls worked at all.  
Removing and reinserting the batteries restored the camera to working 
condition.

Once during lens change, the lens mount banged against the body bayonet 
mount, causing it to bend slightly, jamming the aperture indexing ring
behind it.  It was easy enough to remove the mount with a Phillips 
screwdriver and straighten it with a small hammer, but IMO the mount
is not strong enough.  (There was not a scratch on the lens mount).

I have not had a single failure with my FE, during the 10 years I've 
had it.

-- 
Rune Riisnaes    E-mail: rune@cimage.no, rune@cimage.com, rune@cimsand.uucp
                 Cimage A.S,  Skytterdalen 6,  N-1300 Sandvika,  Norway.
                 Phone: (47-2) 54 90 40   Fax: (47-2) 54 58 40
From: goldberg@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Mark Goldberg)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Flash sync at 1/4000 s. (was Re: High speed useful ? (was Re: Nikon N90 technobabble))
Date: 14 Sep 92 11:21:30 GMT
Reply-To: goldberg@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Mark Goldberg)
Organization: Naval Surface Warfare Center, Annapolis, MD

In rec.photo, tonya@hpldsla.sid.hp.com (Tony Arnerich) writes:
>The TTL flash function in a camera body is just a remote
>sensor for the flash.
>... the only thing you need for TTL sensing is to put that
>sensor inside the body, and connect it to the flash. Period. Why this
>feature is associated with other electronic bells & whistles is just
>a function of Marketing departments.

I disagree very strongly.  The advantage of TTL metering, for both flash
and continuous light sources, is that it accounts for the actual optical
performance of the optics and added filters or diffusers.  Flash sensors
are often fooled by off-axis lighting as from bounce flash systems and
multiple flashes.  TTL metering is so important that several makers
of medium format professional systems - Hasselblad, Bronica, Rollei
- have incorporated it into their camera bodies.


   /|/| /||)|/  /~ /\| |\|)[~|)/~   |   Everyone's entitled to MY opinion.
  / | |/ ||\|\  \_|\/|_|/|)[_|\\_|  |      goldberg@oasys.dt.navy.mil
========Imagination is more important than knowledge. - Albert Einstein=======
From: FKK@SLACVM.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Rewinding Films: But not completely
Date: 15 Sep 92 17:10:30 GMT
Organization: Stanford Linear Accelerator Center

To all those who have auto-rewind cameras that pull the fill all the way into
the can.  There is an inexpensive device at photo shops that lets you pull
the film leader back out of the can in about 30 sec.  It is two thin pieces
of stainless steel that slide with respect to each other.  It takes 2 or
3 practice tries and then becomes easly.  Then just put the film back in
the camera and advance it to the last shot +2 and keep going.  I use one
with my Nikon 8008 all the time - I don't leave home without it.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: margulis@inf.ethz.ch (Eugene Margulis)
Subject: How rugged is F601/6006 ?
Originator: margulis@gf7.inf.ethz.ch
Organization: Dept. Informatik, Swiss Federal Institute of Technology (ETH)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 1992 16:09:44 GMT

What experiences do you have with ruggedness/reliability of F601?
(or F801/8008, I guess they have very similar bodies)

I have this camera since last spring and have been very happy with
it, but I am planning a trip to India and wonder how would it hold
to the dust/humidity and other stresses there. I have been trekking
in Nepal a few months ago with my old Minolta X370 which died by 
the end of the trip (due to dust). I can't really blame the Minolta,
it has been through a lot during the last few years. 

With the electronics of F601 I am worried of "catastrofic failures" 
when nothing works rather than "graceful degradation" when the
camera is still usable.

-eM


-- 
Eugene Margulis 	margulis@inf.ethz.ch		+41-1-254-7232
Newsgroups: rec.photo