HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: hbb@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (harlan.b.braude)
Subject: Re: HELP: My refer. won't refe!
Organization: AT&T
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 13:08:37 GMT

In article <BxMLB2.7F5@vcd.hp.com> scottb@vcd.hp.com () writes:
>the duct was effectively blocked.  So I defrosted the freezer, but it just
>frosted up in a week or two.  Again, I defrost.  Again, the coils are iced.
>
>Is there something else I should be doing or looking at (like a new unit!)?
>
I recently had the frost-free refridgerator in my house repaired for
the same problem. The fix was to replace a timer that forces the unit
to shut down at regular intervals. It's sort of a fail-safe in case the
temperature in the fridge gets close to freezing but is still much
warmer than the thermostat setting.

In my case, the timer was bad (wasn't drawing the correct amount of current,
according to the techie) and needed to be replaced. It cost about $20 plus
labor. I haven't had any trouble since.

Good luck.
-- 
Harlan B. Braude
hbb@att.com
From: bwilliam@oyster.smcm.edu (Bill Williams)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: new septic system odors: advice wanted
Date: 9 Nov 92 17:49:43 GMT
Organization: St. Mary's College of Maryland
X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1.1d10
X-XXMessage-ID: <A7241DE07E0201D2@williams.smcm.edu>
X-XXDate: Mon, 9 Nov 92 18:53:36 GMT

In article <58850052@hpscit.sc.hp.com> Dick Lucas,
dick@hpscit.sc.hp.com writes:
>the system with no problems.  The only maintainence required has been
to
>alternate the drain field.  The system has 2 drain fields and a valve
which
>allows me to use alternate fields on alternate years.

Speaking of septic system maintenance, what do people recommend about
pumping out tanks?  I've heard two schools of thought:  1.  Don't fix
it if it ain't broke (most of the local "wisdom" is of this variety). 
2.  Pump out the solids every couple of years or after a while they'll
overflow into the drain field and then the whole field must be replaced
in another location.

Thoughts?
___________________________________
William E. Williams, bwilliam@oyster.smcm.edu
Divison of Natural Sciences and Mathematics
St. Mary's College of Maryland
St. Mary's City, MD 20686
From: smith@ctron.com (Lawrence C Smith)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Mailbox baseball: going going ... gone!
Date: 5 Nov 92 14:59:01 GMT
Reply-To: smith@ctron.com
Organization: Cabletron Systems, Inc.

In article <1992Oct27.181207.2989@i88.isc.com>, jeq@i88.isc.com (Jonathan E. Quist) writes:
>Preview:  Someone will mention building a small Mount Everest around a
.
.
.
>one will say "that's my point, that's why we should buy the guns".....

Well, that was a real short thread.  Thanks for spoiling it for all the
newcomers!   ;)

Larry Smith (smith@ctron.com)  No, I don't speak for Cabletron.  Need you ask?
-
Liberty is not the freedom to do whatever we want,
it is the freedom to do whatever we are able.
From: wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: GFCI question
Date: 11 Nov 1992 14:21:04 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


Hey now, all!

	I've been reading this group long enough to know that GFCIs are a
common topic, indeed a FAQ, but as far as I can tell, this question hasn't
been asked, or answered.  I'll be replacing the old two-pronged outlets in my
80 year old house with GFCIs, and I know this follows code, as per the FAQ.
The FAQ also mentions that this also protects all the outlets downstream from
the GFCI.  I'd like to replace them at the same time, and would like them
to be 3 pronged outlets.  Can I wire in regular 3 prongers, just ignoring the
ground, or do they all have to be GFCIs in this case?

Bill
-- 
William Claspy			Case Western Reserve University
Internet- wpc@po.cwru.edu
MaBellnet- (216) 368-3595
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: mjoseph@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu (Mark Joseph)
Subject: Re: A humidifier into central AC/heating system
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 22:23:03 GMT

In article <27361@oasys.dt.navy.mil> kim@oasys.dt.navy.mil (John Kim) writes:
>
>    My friend thinks about a humidifier into the central heating/AC 
>system. His idea is that cut an air duck round in the boiler room and
>put the humidfier into it. If they have the humidifier around, could 
>anyone tell me the model name and it's price?  Any pro and con idea 
>of its idea?  Can it cause the air duck rust and sanitary problem?

AprilAire is one such name brand.  They're called furnace humidifiers.
They are installed in the ductwork just above the furnace.  As another
poster pointed out, it is very important to keep them clean. Lime and
other minerals build up quickly as water is evaporated.

They can really help, but free-standing humidifiers can probably be
almost as effective without the equipment and installation costs of
a furnace unit.

Check with a heating contractor for cost estimates.

Mark

-- 
Mark Joseph             University of Illinois / Speech & Hearing Science
Technical Support Mgr.  901 S. Sixth St., Champaign, IL 61820
m-joseph@uiuc.edu       (217)244-2569   FAX:(217)244-2235
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com (Fred Christiansen)
Subject: Price Pfister:  1 out of 20
Organization: Motorola Computer Group, Technical Systems Operations
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 16:54:35 GMT

Almost 1 yr ago, I bought a Price Pfister kitchen faucet from Home Depot
for the home we're renting (whilst working towards building).  After a
mere 8 months of use it developed a pin-hole leak on the underside of
the spout.  Shortly thereafter it got a second.  Finally it developed a
crack almost 2 inches long with numerous little jets of water spewing forth.

Well, I finally got around to this "honey-do" last night after finally
resurrecting the receipt.  Home Depot gave me a brand new one in exchange.
Plaudits for them, but thumbs down on Price Pfister.  I did not even get a
full year out of an item which has a 20 year warranty.  I've decided to
put in nothing but Deltas in the new house.
-- 
Fred Christiansen, Motorola, 2900 S Diablo Way, Tempe, AZ 85282  "Canajun, eh?"
fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com  ||  uunet!phx.mcd.mot.com!fredch  ||  +1 602-438-3464
  ".. I have set before you Life and Death, blessing and cursing;  therefore
      choose Life, that both you and your children may live"  Deut 30:19
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: jadams@vixen.uucp (22475-adams)
Subject: Re: OK to pound nails into concrete blocks?
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 92 16:48:03 GMT
Summary: Masonry nails

In article <13805@texsun.Central.Sun.COM>, dbernard@clesun.Central.Sun.COM (Dave Bernard) writes:
> I have cement blocks for my basement wall, and would like to hang things
> from the wall.  Is there a certain kind of nail that can be used on walls
> like this?  Is it better to pound nails into the joints- where the mortar is-
> or into the blocks themselves?   

Hardened masonry nails are available from most decent hardware stores.  If
possible, drive into mortor joints and be sure to wear eye protection...You'll be
beating one hardened piece of stell with a forged steel hammer. :^o!

Jack (John) Adams			| Bellcore NVC 2Z-220
(908) 758-5372 {Voice}			| (908) 758-4389 {Facsimile}
jadams@vixen.bellcore.com		| kahuna@attmail.com
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
	--Fanaticism consists in redoubling your efforts when you have 
	forgotten your aim. -- George Santayana (1863-1952).
Jack (John) Adams			| Bellcore NVC 2Z-220
(908) 758-5372 {Voice}			| (908) 758-4389 {Facsimile}
jadams@vixen.bellcore.com		| kahuna@attmail.com
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: lee@hsh.com (Lee Havemann)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Hardwood floor over concrete slab ?
Date: 12 Nov 92 13:55:35 GMT
Organization: HSH Associates

In article <35960126@hpindda.cup.hp.com>, stellaw@hpindda.cup.hp.com (Stella Kwong) writes:
> 
> 
>      I am thinking of having a hardwood floor in the kitchen and the
>      nook area. (total about 250 sq.ft). 
>   
>      Is it a good idea to put hardwood floor in the kitchen? Can I 
>      clean the hardwood floor with water every other week? 
>   
>      Also, is there any problem putting hardwood floor on top of 
>      concrete slab? I know hardwood floor can be glued instead of 
>      nailed, but my contractor told me that the moisture from the
>      concrete slab could create bubbles underneath the hardwood 
>      and eventually it would damage the hardwood floor.  
> 
>      Is this true? Is hardwood floor over concrete slab possible? 
>      
> 
>      Thanks,
>      Stella

I saw on one of those renovation shows where they put down a "floating"
hardwood floor.  They first sealed the concrete, and then put some kind
of plastic down. Then they just laid tongue-and-groove on top without any
nails or glue. 
  They left approx 1/2" clearance around all the edges and put trim in to cover
the edges.
 This way, the floor can expand and contract due to humidity changes
without buckling or warping.

-- 

 Lee Havemann, Sys_op       HSH Associates          (201) 838-3330 
 Internet: lee@hsh.com    Compuserve: 70410,3507    AOL: HSH Assoc
 "Any opinions expressed are not necessarily those of anyone else, 
  including myself."                     
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (patterson,george r)
Subject: Re: R-values
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 92 21:19:09 GMT

In article <1992Nov10.214551.7633@philabs.philips.com> mja@philabs.philips.com (Michael Amato) writes:

>1. Use these little pieces of wire that are slightly larger than the space between the studs. They push in and stick into the studs. These are usually used
>to keep floor insulation in place when being installed from a basement or crawl
>space.

Anyone know where I can get these? I've looked at Channel and Home Depot
and haven't found them yet. 

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | The origin of the English slang term "boffin"
                    | for scientist is not known; however, it has been
George Patterson -  | pointed out that the eggs of the Puffin are perfect
                    | obloids which always return to the same position
                    | if pushed and that this is also true of the ideas
                    | expressed by boffins.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: philip@mentorg.com (Philip Peake)
Subject: Re: need help w GE induction cooktop/oven
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 21:59:57 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Mentor Graphics
Keywords: induction, cooktop
Followup-To: 

In article <1992Nov11.034102.22233@cbnewsh.cb.att.com>, cs@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (cetin.seren) writes:
|>   1) the pros and cons of induction cooktops.

For:		Surface doesn't get hot.

		Efficient energy transfer.

		Kind to pot and pans.

		Hi-tec - a nice toy.

Against:	Beware of putting a finger with a ring on it
		anywhere near !!!

		Contains a high power RF source (more to go
		wrong).	

		May not work too well with certain types
		of pans.

		Expensive.

|>   2) their lifetime and known problems...

		Can't really answer this, but I would
		guess that it would not be as long
		as a conventional top - although many
		people throw out tops for esthetic reasons
		rather than the fact that they break.

|>   3) the fact that they do generate radiation -- not inthe microvwave
|>       band, maybe, but it still is radiation...  does anyone
|>       know of any studies in this respect?

		I can't point to an specific ones, but the same
		principals (RF induction heating) are used in
		*many* industrial processes, and will have been
		scrutinised ny health and safety organisations
		in just about every civilised country in the world.	

|>   4) I noticed that the surface does get dull after a while.
|>      does this effect the performance at all?

		Not at all, so long as it is clean.

Philip
From: wb8foz@skybridge.SCL.CWRU.Edu (David Lesher)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Soundproofing rooms
Date: 10 Nov 1992 03:38:53 GMT
Organization: NRK Clinic for habitual NetNews abusers - Beltway Annex
Distribution: world
Reply-To: wb8foz@skybridge.scl.cwru.edu (David Lesher)
NNTP-Posting-Host: skybridge.scl.cwru.edu

 Several folks asked....
 	Architectural_Acoustics
 	M. David Egan
 	McGraw Hill
 	ISBN 0-07-019111-5
 
     The book is dedicated to his old profs, 
     Drs Beranek, Bolt and Newman.
 
 Gee, where have I seen those names before ;-?
 
--
A host is a host from coast to coast..wb8foz@skybridge.scl.cwru.edu
& no one will talk to a host that's close..........................
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: neilson@osf.org (Peter Neilson)
Subject: Re: Fill old well in basement?
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 19:19:37 GMT

In article <1992Nov12.163244.27599@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (patterson,george r) writes:
>In article <27425@oasys.dt.navy.mil> odell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Bernard O'Dell) writes:
>>My daughter bought an old house, had a new well dug outside, but
>>now, the old well, which turns out to be 50` deep-5` wide, now
>>needs to be filled--requires 4` of concrete on bottom, and 4` of
>>concrete on top with fill (dirt/gravel/?) in between.
>
>>Another idea was to check with an excavator, and have them
>>bring over the dirt, and with some kind of "conveyor" through
>>the basement window, fill the hole up.--haven't checked this one out
>>yet.
>
>Large concrete suppliers will have concrete "pumps". These are screw
>driven units with discharge tubes that are about 6" in diameter. Check
>with one of these outfits to see if they have one that can move sand,
>dirt, or gravel. This is likely to be an expensive option.

Don't fill it.  Build a concrete cap.  Make a form (in place) for a
rim and a form for a lid (nearby, but not in place).  The lid should
probably include rebar, maybe the rim as well.  Have them poured
from a mixer truck through a cement chute in a cellar window, or use
George's suggestion of the concrete pump, if you don't feel up to
hand-mixing down there in the cellar.  (Uffgh!)

When the concrete has set, move the lid into place.  This will take
some careful engineering, but is probably easier than taking 400
wheelbarrow loads of dirt down the cellar stairs.

Using the old well for storage of a cask of Amontillado is optional.

--Peter
-- 
    "The Steinway piano people have asked me to announce that the
piano I am playing tonight is a Baldwin."  --Victor Borge
  >>>  Peter Neilson  --- neilson@osf.org  <<<   (Quote changed daily.
If you've seen this one before, you are reading too many newsgroups.)
From: lsnow@ncrclm.ClemsonSC.NCR.COM (Linda Snow)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: fireplace size
Date: 4 Nov 92 18:31:35 GMT
Reply-To: lsnow@ncrclm.ClemsonSC.NCR.COM (Linda Snow)
Organization: NCR E&M CLEMSON Liberty, SC

In article <1992Nov3.200856.23703@cid.aes.doe.CA> afshrbt@cidsv01.cid.aes.doe.CA (Robert Thibeault) writes:
>
>   can anyone give me the magic table for fireplace opening size and
>corresponding 
>   flux size.
>           ex: opening 34w x 25h require 12x12 flux in order to
>eliminate the risk
>                smoke.

I believe I was told the area of the fireplace opening (i.e. in sq.in.)
should be no more than 10 times the area of the flue opening.  The sweep is
coming tomorrow to install a smoke guard, I'll confirm that with him.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.

.
.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: paul@tct.com (Paul Levin)
Subject: Was: Toilet leak ...
Organization: TC Telemanagement, Clearwater, FL
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 22:28:13 GMT

A so called "one piece" toilet is actually 2 pieces -- the bowl and the
tank.  The tank connects to the bowl with (usually) 3 bolts.  Around the
bolts are rubber washers that prevent water from leaking out of the tank
(around the bolts).  There is also a large rubber "washer" at the
large opening, where the water goes from the tank to the bowl, when the
toilet is flushed.  If your toilet leaks all of the time, the washers
around the bolts are bad.  If it only leaks when you flush, the washer
at the large opening is bad.  The likelihook of a crack is very very slim --
almost impossible, if it only leaks when you flush.

If you feel up to it, and can do without the toilet for a while; go to
some home center store and buy a repair kit (with all of the rubber washers).
Turn off the water to the tank, flush the toilet, use a sponge to remove
the remaining water in the tank; and then remove the bolts connecting
the tank to the bowl.  When all three bolts are removed, the tank will
lift off.  You may also want to disconnect the water line into the tank,
as that will keep you from moving the tank very far.  Reassemble with the
new rubber washers.  Tighten the bolts very well.  Test water tightness
by pouring a few glasses of water into the tank.  Then turn on the water
feed.  Verify that the water feed connection is not leaking.  Let the tank
fill.  With a paper towel completely dry the underneath of the tank and
the bowl near the tank.  Wait several minutes to see if there is any 
leaking from the bolts.  Test this by wiping the area with a dry paper
towel.  Then flush.  Test for leaking again.  If all is well, leave some
dry paper towel on the floor under the tank for a few days, to be sure
there are no leaks.  After a day or 2, check the tightness on the bolts.
It's that simple.

-- 
From:  Paul Levin   paul@count.tct.com   813-532-2239 (work, 9-5 EST)
    --> Jesus loves you, and died for you; thank Him today. <--
-- 
From:  Paul Levin   paul@count.tct.com   813-532-2239 (work, 9-5 EST)
    --> Jesus loves you, and died for you; thank Him today. <--
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: sffcu@cuais01.cc.columbia.edu (Stew Feuerstein)
Subject: Re: A humidifier into central AC/heating system
Organization: Columbia University
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 18:08:25 GMT

In article <27361@oasys.dt.navy.mil> kim@oasys.dt.navy.mil (John Kim) writes:
>From: kim@oasys.dt.navy.mil (John Kim)
>Subject: A humidifier into central AC/heating system
>Date: 9 Nov 92 22:47:27 GMT
>
>    My friend thinks about a humidifier into the central heating/AC 
>system. His idea is that cut an air duck round in the boiler room and
>put the humidfier into it. If they have the humidifier around, could 
>anyone tell me the model name and it's price?  Any pro and con idea 
>of its idea?  Can it cause the air duck rust and sanitary problem?
>
>John Kim

	I have a Herrmidifier, that came with my house.  I don't know the 
model number or it's price.  However it seems to be a well made unit.  I 
also have a humidistat to control the relative humidity in the house (it 
is installed in the return duct).
	The most important thing with humidifiers is that you HAVE TO keep 
them clean.  Otherwise they become a breeding ground for microbes and/or 
bacteria (?) and can make you and your family sick.  I clean and replace the 
belt on my unit every year.  It's possible that you might want to clean it 
more frequently than that.  I know my mother-in-law never cleans hers, and 
we all get sick everytime we sleep over her house.  I am thinking of 
deinstalling hers.
	I haven't had any problems with rust.
	
				-Stew
From: ben@monmouth.edu (Bennett Broder)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: High-efficiency furnace question
Date: 6 Nov 92 19:48:51 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Monmouth College, W. Long Branch, NJ  07764

In article <1992Nov2.184418.12635@tessi.com> allen@tessi.com (Allen Warren) writes:
>Anyway, I've heard that the Lennox Pulse is an excellent furnace with low
>repairability reports.  I don't know about any other brands.

Be aware that the Lennox Pulse is a very noisy furnace.  There are a
few things the installer can do with the exhaust plumbing to help mitigate
the problem, but I still wouldn't consider for an application where the
furnace was in a utility closet near a living area.

-- 

Bennett Broder               Monmouth College
                             Computer Services
ben@monmouth.edu             W. Long Branch, NJ 07764
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Interior Painting:  Rolling vs. Spraying
From: michael@sunbeam.ksc.nasa.gov (Michael D. Myjak x7-3286)
Date: 12 Nov 92 09:06:45
Organization: NASA, Kennedy Space Center, FL.
In-reply-to: ajeans@hplred.HPL.HP.COM's message of Wed, 11 Nov 1992 21:32:33 GMTLines: 21

In article <4930001@hplred.HPL.HP.COM> ajeans@hplred.HPL.HP.COM (Albert Jeans) writes:

   Spraying is a whole lot faster of course, but it also uses a lot more paint
   (maybe almost twice as much?).

One comment I have not seen regarding the spraying vs rolling debate
is that spray painting applies half as much paint to the wall as
rolling does. Our painter told us that spray painting provids the
thinest coat, spraying and then back-rolling provids the next best
layer, and of course rolling paint directly provided the thickest
coat.

for what thats worth...
--
- Michael D. Myjak			
  Senior Technical Specialist, Systems Analyst
  McDonnell Douglas Space Systems Company
  Kennedy Space Center, Fl., 32815
  MYJAK@TITAN.KSC.NASA.GOV

Gravity. It's not just a good idea. Its the LAW!
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: jeff@cns.nyu.edu (Jeff Fookson)
Subject: wood stove woes/questions
Reply-To: jeff@cns.nyu.edu
Organization: New York University
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 15:05:16 GMT

We are having problems with extreme smokiness in a wood burning stove installed
in a traditional fireplace. I discovered first of all that the stove exhauast
does not line up properly with the flue so that there is a finger-sized gap.
What is a reasonable material to use to improve the seal? A sheet metal
band of some kind? 
Also, the chimney cleaning guy told us that the stove is too small for the
chiminey and that there is an extremely strong downdraft. He suggeste da new cap
to make the chiminey exit smaller. Is this likely to help? How does one determine
stove size for a particular chiminey size?
Thanks.
  Jeff Fookson
  jeff@cns.nyu.edu