HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: Peter_Clausen@amigabw.uucp (Peter Clausen)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Speedometer sending unit, where is it?
Distribution: world
Date: 4 Apr 92 15:07:02 EDT
Organization: Amiga Bandwidth

I have an '85 Firebird.  Last week I replaced the instrument cluster with
one out of a wrecked '89 GTA with the 140 mph speedo.

Only problem is that the new speedo is electronic, so I need the sensor
that sends the pulses.  I looked all over the GTA and could not for the
life of me find it.

Since my factory speedo was mechanical, I have the speedo cable going from
the transmission nose piece to behind the dash.  I did not see this cable
on the GTA, so...

Could the pulse sender be located on the transmission nose piece?  Inside
the transmission?  I hope not since I'm running a TH-350 with the nose
piece bracket for the torque arm, thus leaving me with very little space to
work with around the speedo outlet.

I'm hoping to find a unit that will snap to the end of my speedo cable. 
Then all I have to do is run a wire to the appropriate connector on the
cluster.

I know the speedo will more than likely be off, but I was already planning
on building a unit that would multiply the pulses by whatever constant
necessary to make the indication correct.  This way I can change rear end
ratio's and recalibration of the speedo will be a snap.

But, alas, I need that sending unit first.....

-- Via DLG Pro v0.991

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@cica4.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: Problem with rebuilt Holly 390cfm. 4 barrel - help Hot Rodders
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1992 22:39:40 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL
Keywords: Holly Carb

 First off get the 'mechanic' to tell you what modifications he made. Did he
change jets? Re-adjust the accelerator pump spring, etc.?

 I found out on my 650CFM (1850) that you can make a big change by how much
you tighten the accelerator pump spring - at least on mine the throttle
pump cam follower lever has a spring and bolt between said lever and the
accelerator pump lever. This spring makes a bit of 'give' during transient
throttle actions. Tightening it up will reduce lag. This was all I needed
to beat the bogging problem I was having. The pump still made a big squirt
of gas, it was just too late to help...

 Mind you, if this fellow has been going and drilling out holes to
"Hep ya out", he may not be a good friend for your carb to be hanging out
with. It's also possible that you are getting too much pump shot (this
can be seen by somebody following you as a puff of soot every time you
hit the gas). Determine if you are too lean or too rich when the stumble
occurs, and you'll know which way to go. Loosen the spring/bolt keeper nut
to get a slower shot, tighten it for a harder one.

 
--
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
From: cantrell@seqp4.sequoia.com (Paul Cantrell)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Toyota Landcruiser Question
Date: 16 Apr 92 17:33:43 GMT
Organization: Sequoia Computer Systems

In article <703051265.F00006@blkcat.UUCP>, Steve.Kaess@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Steve Kaess) writes:
> In this area land cruisers are rare, so parts are hard to come by, 
> both new and used.  You might be better off with a blazer/bronco 
> in a used one, or any of the universe of new sport/utilitys available 
> new unless they are a lot more land cruisers out in ca.


Not to disagree, but...

We've had almost no maintenance required on our '85 Landcruiser. About 80,000
miles on it now. The only part we ever needed was in stock. Of course, the
Landcruiser may be more popular around here.

I've owned 4WD GMC truck products, and they require a fair amount of
maintenance compared to the Toyota. A friend with a Blazer had a *lot*
of trouble with it.

So even if I did think that parts availabilty might be a problem (which I
don't), I'd *still* go with the Landcruiser. I'd much rather have an
ultra-reliable vehicle than one with good parts availability that's going
to constantly require attention.

					PC
-- 
cantrell@sequoia.com
From: borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1992 21:25:40 GMT
Subject: Re: What the $#&! is with the oil??
Organization: Hewlett Packard Company, Spokane, Wa.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

You would be better off driving a slightly longer route to work than idling
the engine to warm it up.  Thirty seconds to a minute is plenty.

Also, check you PCV valve.  Besides recirculating blowby to burn up those
nasty unburn hydrocarbons, the flow of fresh air though the crankcase
helps reduce the build-up of moisture and other contaminants.


Donald Borowski    WA6OMI    Hewlett-Packard, Spokane Division
"Angels are able to fly because they take themselves so lightly."
                                       -G.K. Chesterton

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.driving
From: tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen)
Subject: Mister Two (WAS Re: Rolling a car, general questions)
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 92 04:16:01 GMT

In article <1992Apr13.195928.12344@fwhnm02.fwrdc.rtsg.mot.com> rlatham@fwhnm02.fwrdc.rtsg.mot.com (Russ Latham) writes:
>When looking for a new car, I went on a test drive of
>a '93 Toyota MR2 (supposed to have a much better 
>performance suspension than the '92 model).

first, they put bigger tires on it.  second, and more important, they
revised the rear suspension to control problems with excessive
toe-out during hard cornering.  i drove an MR2 before - went around
a curve fast, increasing speed gradually.  and suddenly the rear end
let go and i had to give it lots of opposite lock to get everything under
control.  pretty bad... i think CAR complained about it.
apparently that's been fixed.

by the way, does anybody know what the fixes were?
something about lengthening the rear control arms, but i don't
understand how that helps.  it would seem to me that longer
control arms would reduce the leverage...
-teddy
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jim@uokmax.ecn.uoknor.edu (James Henderson)
Subject: flow straightener
Organization: Engineering Computer Network, University of Oklahoma, Norman, OK
Distribution: na 
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 19:59:07 GMT

 To whoever,

   A friend is considering buying the air flow straightener (or
whatever you call it ) for a late model TPI 350. You know the little thing
that goes in the manifold right in front of the throttle body. Its supposed
to help increase air flow and thus performance. My question is if anyone
out there had tried one or had any experience with this. 

                                            Thanx
                                              jim
jim@uokmax.ecn.uoknor.edu
From: bphdarcy@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (SJ Roc D'Arcy, MBP)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Caliper Question
Date: 6 Apr 92 14:39:00 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <1992Apr3.041502.10853@cs.dal.ca>, gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca (Andy) writes...
>I went to get my brakes checked (for free at Midas if you live in Canada)
>and I need one front caliper, all front brake pads and adjustment of one 
>back caliper. Rotors seem OK. I have a few questions (again).
>('85 GTI - all 4 wheels are disks)
> 
  . . . . . <Stuff Deleted>

See all the post about the work of Midas, Monroe and Sears and the 
rec.autos board.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: stiegg@aix.rpi.edu (Gregory Mark Stiegler)
Subject: Re: Electrical Question 85 Corvette
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1992 19:40:21 GMT

mark.r.smith@Sun.COM writes:
>I have a 1985 Corvette with 14K miles that only gets driven in summer months. When I took the
>car out this april 1, I noticed my lights,.....Dash, interior, headlights, all of them, were
>flickering, but only at idle. When the engine speeds up, the flickering goes away.

>Question? Is the Alternator going bad even though the gauge reads approx 13.9--14.3 volts?
>OR Do I have a different problem?

>The Battery was replaced back in the fall.

Just to be sure...have you checked the belt tension?  (I'm not sure if had the 
serpentine belt in '85)  A loose belt will cause exactly what you describe.

-- 
===========================================================================
  "Bureaucracy is a challenge to be conquered with a righteous attitude,
     a tolerance for stupidity, and a bulldozer when necessary"
                  -- Peter's Laws
From: koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: HKS Turbo Kits
Date: 8 Apr 92 12:46:52 GMT
Organization: Naval Ocean Systems Center, San Diego

In article <1992Apr8.073945.17165@leland.Stanford.EDU> tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen) writes:

>the taurus SHO used to be the most powerful FWD car.
>then came the dodge spirit, with a DOHC 16v turbo at 224 bhp.
>now it's the cadillac allante, with the *290* bhp northstar 32v V-8.
>and the mag said it didn't have much torque steer, either.
>0-60 of 6.7 seconds... with an automatic and 3800 lbs of weight.

hmmmmm, are we all sure of the above?

please recall the 500cid Eldorados of a few years ago...  i *honestly* doubt
that any of the above mentioned new-generation front-drive engines put out more
power than that monster did...


>i remember the good old days when they said 200 bhp was the
>upper limit for FWD cars...

recalling 500cid Eldorados and 455cid Toronados...  i don't buy any such
accusation of 200hp being a limit for front-drive... (nor did i at the time
that that was a prevalent view...)

walt k.
From: schramb@ucsu.Colorado.EDU (Brian Schram)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Rings->Can you just replace w/o reboring?+Bearings.
Date: 11 Apr 92 22:49:35 GMT
Article-I.D.: ucsu.1992Apr11.224935.28058
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder

<PAH112@psuvm.psu.edu> writes:

>I have a simple question.  Can I just replace the rings on my car w/o reboring
>the cylinders?  I guess I would have to de-glaze them though.
the answer ... a qualified yes. 
a) make sure you don't have excessive taper in the cylinder walls.
if so, they you're just wasting your time, and you'll still burn 
oil and have low compression.
b) make sure  you use the proper rings.  definitely don't use
moly rings (unless you want to break them, or have them fail to seat).
talk to a machinest or a person who knows about the various kinds of
rings out there.

>Can you just replace crankshaft+con.rod bearings w/o regrinding the crank?
yup, that wouldn't be a problem unless the journals are scored (able to catch
a fingernail in the grooves).  you'd want to make sure that the journals
aren't excessively ovaled.  it might be worth putting a mike on the journals,
and find a book which tells acceptable out-of-roundness.
and of course, check to make sure the oil holes aren't plugged or partially
clogged.
>*******************************************************************************
>* Peter Howard                *  " If the speed limit is 55 mph, why does my  *
>* DoD# 0924                   *    does my speedometer go to 160 ? "          *
>* 1985 Ninja 600              *************************************************
>* EMAIL: PAH112@PSUVM.PSU.EDU *  " Slower traffic keep right."                *
>*******************************************************************************
From: v102l7gb@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (Kevin M Odell)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: FORD PROBE
Date: 8 Apr 92 05:20:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY INFORMATION AS TO WHAT ENGINES ARE USED IN A 1988
FORD PROBE?  WHAT ENGINE DOES THE BASE MODEL HAVE?  ARE THERE ANY OTHER
ENGINES AVAILABLE?  ALSO, DO YOU HAVE ANY PERFORMANCE DATA?  ANY INFO
WOULD BE APPRECIATED.  IF POSSIBLE RESPOND BY E-MAIL.  THANKS IN ADVANCE.
KEVIN ODELL 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: pauly@netcom.com (Paul Yoshimune)
Subject: Re: Problem with rebuilt Holly 390cfm. 4 barrel - help Hot Rodders
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 92 02:31:41 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Distribution: usa
Keywords: Holly Carb

Well, this is a very common problem with carburetors in general, and Holleys
in particular, for the uninitiated.  One of two possible conditions can cause
this: Either not enough gas put out by the accelerator pump, or too much.
Depending on what kind of car you have, what weight, what gearing, what tranny,
what cam, and what accelerator pump cam (among a million other things), either
condition can exist.  Do you get a puff of smoke out the tailpipe when it
bogs?  Have you pulled the plugs to see if you're getting any detonation?  
Look for little purple dots on the porcelain - if you see these, you're
definitely running too lean.  If you're running something like a small block
V8, and using a 390 cfm carb, I'd assume you're running lean on the pump
shot.  If this is the case, then enlarging the pump squirter can help, but
you may need to use a bigger pump cam to get enough gas through.  The thing
is, larger holes in the squirter will give you more initial gas, but then
the car may bog because this doesn't give you any more QUANTITY of gas.  Using
smaller holes in the squirter, on the other hand, will give you a longer
duration of gas, but in smaller amounts per unit of time.  Confusing?  Kinda.
Please post more information about your car, engine size, gearing, etc...


-- 
-Paul Yoshimune [pauly@netcom.com]
From: javiegas@matagh.ncsu.edu (James A. Viegas)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.atuos.vw
Subject: Air condition
Date: 10 Apr 92 15:56:42 GMT
Organization: NCSU Mathematics Dept.
Originator: javiegas@grad02.math.ncsu.edu


  
It's about that time of year to get my A.C. system tuned up. 
I know I will need some freon since the unit doesn't not 
blow out air that is very cold.

Are those A.C. kit in the automotive stores worth buying?
Most places around here offer A.C. recharging starting at $30.
Should I just take it to a station to have it discharged (environmentally 
safe) then recharge it myself or leave it to the professionals?
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|
Jim Viegas              	   javiegas@math.ncsu.edu     |
N.C. State Univ.                   (919) 515-2382 dept. off.  |
Dept. Mathematics  Box 8205        (919) 515-3362 my  office  |
Raleigh, NC 27695-8205             ****  FAHRVERGNUGEN ****   |
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
From: timc@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Tim Carlson)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 17:07:18 GMT
Subject: Re: Mustang mailing list
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

In rec.autos.tech, rab2f@fulton.seas.Virginia.EDU (Roger A. Burnett) writes:

>      Is there a mailing list for older Mustangs?  I think that
> mustangs@hpda.cup.hp.com is for late model Mustangs.   
> 
>                            Roger Burnett
>                            rab2f@fulton.seas.virginia.edu

Yes there is; it is called classic-mustangs, and is for '64 1/2 thru '73
Mustangs.

Submissions should be sent to:  classic-mustangs@hpfctjc.fc.hp.com
Requests should be sent to:  classic-mustangs-request@hpfctjc.fc.hp.com

In your subscription request please tell me what year(s) of Mustang(s)
you have...I'm trying to keep track of who has what.

Tim Carlson
timc@fc.hp.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jmansfie@zeus.calpoly.edu (Jason Mansfield)
Subject: loss of power, etc.
Organization: California Polytechnic State University, San Luis Obispo
Date: Mon, 06 Apr 1992 06:35:09 GMT

	Okay, I give up!  I can't figure out what's wrong with my car.
It's a '75 Cadillac Eldorado 500 ci, 4bbl Rochester Q-Jet.  The primary
problem is a loss of power.  I've rebuilt the carb and fooled around with
all the adjustments (incl.: fuel float level and air-fuel mixture).  I've
checked the compression (from #1-#8: 125,160,125,125,140,135,140,130) which
seems to be acceptable.  I checked the vacuum at the intake manifold:  15psi
steady and declining to 0 when revved which smoothly returns to 15 at idle.
Vacuum Advance is working smoothly.  There are no vacuum leaks that I could
find.  We pressurized #1 cyl at tdc to check if maybe the timing chain had
jumped which theoretically would've been indicated by major air leakage --
there was none.  I played with the timing, but even 6 degrees advanced(12btdc) 
created tons of black smoke and fouled plugs (which I have since cleaned) and
only a little power increase so I set it back to spec - 6btdc.  The ignition
are mostly fairly new.
	Now, what's happening exactly is that I can barely get up long steep
hills above 30mph and there's hardly any acceleration at high speed and there
isn't much difference in the way of power between a little throttle and a lot.
Also, when I get off the freeway and come to a stop sign or something, it 
sometimes has small backfires up through the carb.  I was able to cause
this parked with the air cleaner removed and revving real high real fast
and what it was was a little gas getting blown up through the secondary
plates.  It also idles rough and runs rough at high speed and emits a little
bit of black smoke over a long period of time.  
	The only thing I can think of that's left is the tranny (which isn't
perfect) - maybe just a vacuum modulator.  But it wouldn't account for the
rough idle (but that could just be an old engine) nor (I don't think) the
backfire up through the carb.  It seems like a fuel or vacuum type prob.,
but I don'T know what's left - vapor canister?
	Sorry for such a long and detailed description, but I need help!
No on seems to be able to figure it out.
	Thanx,
	- Jason - jmansfie@athena.calpoly.edu - The Cadillac Man -
From: johnson@wrs.com (David Johnson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Stiffening suspension cheaply
Date: 14 Apr 92 20:01:37 GMT
Organization: Wind River Systems, Inc.

Your problem ist'n too soft a suspension. Your problem is too low 
a dampening rate on your shock absorbers. Stock shock absorbers
are grossly under-dampened; especially American-made. To rectify
your problem, just replace the strut cartriges and/or shocks.
If you don't want a harsh ride you can get something like Monroe
Gas-Matic shocks but if you want something that'll make a real 
difference in the transient response of the suspension then the
Bilstein-Sports will definitely fit the bill.

>DAVE (johnson@WRS.COM)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: coleman@riemann.gsfc.nasa.gov ()
Subject: catalytic catastrophe on Miata
Organization: NASA Goddard Space Flight Center, Greenbelt MD
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 17:09:05 GMT

HELP!!!
I own what once was a trouble free 1990 Mazda Miata which I purchased
in July 1989. With the exception of replacing the rag top 3 separate 
times, maintenance was minimal to none. This past november a strange 
grinding noise from the engine caused me to pay a visit to my local mazda 
dealer. It turns out the alternator broke off and grinded a hole in the
engine block! Mileage was about 47k so a new block was installed under
warranty. Since then I had to take it back to locate a rattle and tighten
the AC belt which also wasn't charged because they were remnants of the
install job, BUT today a newer louder rattle has surfaced. My dealer looked
at it this morning and claims it is coming from inside the catalytic converter.
Since my mileage is now at 52k this new part is going to cost me $600 +
labor!!! (warranty = 5yrs || 50k miles) Does anybody have an opinion on 
whether or not this can also be a remnant of the new block install or
even if you've even heard about this problem on other miatas or mazda's
at such an early stage.
Thanks,
Greg Coleman

- Greg Coleman/Cray Research
  c/o NASA GSFC/301-286-2333
  coleman@eastrg2.cray.com
From: dschneid@jacquard.ece.wisc.edu (Dan Schneidewend)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Fuel octane versus power
Date: 8 Apr 92 15:46:03 GMT
Article-I.D.: doug.1992Apr8.104604.3400
Organization: /usr/local/lib/organization

In article <5317@nosc.NOSC.MIL> koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz) writes:
>In article <92099.084312JBEST@ESOC.BITNET> JBEST@ESOC.BITNET (Jon) writes:
>>Does anyone out there know how a change in octane rating affects power?
>>AND BEFORE YOU LEAP IN and say higher octane - more power, what I'd like
>>to know is whether there's a fixed relation between octane and power.
>>F'rinstance if you bump up the octane by x% how can you calculate the
>>percentage change in power?
>
>simplest explanation --
>
>higher octane fuel contains *less* energy per unit volume than does lower
>octane fuel.  less energy per unit volume implies that ALL ELSE EQUAL less
>power will be produced by the engine running on high octane than running on low
>octane.  this assumes that the engine management computer system doesn't
>compensate for fuel octane, by the way...
>
>walt k.
>

True, essentially (I cant spell) octane is a measure of the length
of the hydrocarbon chains in the fuel. Higher octane = longer chains =
slower burning = more resistance to pressure detonation = lower
specific energy (note this is a list, not an implied order).

If you do not need the high octane, dont use it.  
The places were high octane is a win are:
A car with a turbo or blower - high octane help prevent pre-ignition
	do to the high boost pressures. Also, the lower flame speed
	help make the engine run cooler.

A car with closed loop - computer controller spark advance - The
	higher octane will allow the computer to advance the spark
	more resulting in longer burn time and cooler, more complete
	combustion.

A older car will carbon deposits - The deposits can result in 
	"hot spots" in the chamber leading to inefficient combustion.
	Higher octane gas will burn more uniformly and completely.
	(Although in this case it is seldom necessary to go
	above mid-grade gas)

If your car does not fit into one of these catagories, you are
likely wasting money by buying high octane fuel.

As a side note: higher octane is more expensive because a higher
level of refining is needed to produce it.

Dan
From: johnson@wrs.com (David Johnson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: New Group. was Re: Turbocharger VS. Supercharger.
Date: 13 Apr 92 21:28:01 GMT
Organization: Wind River Systems, Inc.

mdrayton@hpmwtd.HP.COM (Mike Drayton) writes:

I admit writing the article on the '73 Gremlin, which was 100% B.S....

>Mike Drayton 
>mdrayton@sr.hp.com


So YOUR the one.:-)

>DAVE
johnson@WRS.COM
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:5896 rec.autos.sport:3472
From: leres@ace.ee.lbl.gov (Craig Leres)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.sport
Subject: Re: Looking for a tire pyrometer source
Date: 16 Apr 92 01:55:06 GMT
Article-I.D.: dog.22732
Reply-To: leres@ee.lbl.gov (ucbvax!leres for uucp weenies)
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Organization: Lawrence Berkeley Laboratory, Berkeley
NNTP-Posting-Host: 128.3.112.6

Last month I was looking for a tire pyrometer. I got a lot of good
suggestions.

Most of the tire pyrometers I found in the $100-200 price range appear
to use type-K thermocouples. The probe for a type-K thermocouple can be
identified by the connector which has two flat blades, one wide and one
narrow (and is usually yellow plastic). By coincidence, a number of
manufacturers sell DMMs that come are "type-K thermocouple" ready.
Sears sells one. Fluke has a $65 temperature adaptor for use with its
meters (it converts degrees to millivolts so it probably works with
other meters too). However, these usually come with a bead probe and I
wanted a real tire probe (which is inserted into the tread).

What I ended up doing was buying a REB-CO replacement probe for $50 and
a Protek DMM for $130. The tire probe is well constructed and great
works with the Protek. It also works with a Fluke temperature adaptor I
borrowed from a friend. This is close to what the middle of the line
REB-CO pyrometer costs but now I also have a nice DMM that also
measures capacitance and frequency.

By the way, REB-CO makes a really slick looking infra-red tire
pyrometer. For $300, you get instant temperature readings "as fast as
you can pull the trigger."

		Craig