HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

   You may not have a problem at all.  You did not mention anything about
changing the filter too!  If you changed the filter, added oil, and then 
checked the level before starting the engine the level will be ok.  The 
empty filter will hold half a quart!
From: ems@michael.apple.com (E. Michael Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Methanol in gas, detergent fuels
Date: 14 Oct 92 20:06:57 GMT
Organization: Apple Computer Inc, Cupertino, CA

In article <1992Oct13.162429.23100@cabot.balltown.cma.COM> welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty) writes:

>methanol is very corrosive to many metals, and damages certain
>types of rubber fuel line.

I've done a set of relative corrosion tests (a year or two ago after
a long sci.energy debate) that showed the much ballyhooed 'very 
corrosive' claim was only true if you allowed for water to be 
defined as 'very very corrosive'.  Yes, methanol is more 'corrosive'
than gasoline.  But methanol is LESS corrosive than WATER in most
cases (some odd combinations of metals can go a little faster in
methanol than in water).  AND, this can be cotrolled with addatives
in the gasoline.

-- 

E. Michael Smith  ems@apple.COM

'Whatever you can do, or dream you can, begin it.  Boldness has
 genius, power and magic in it.'  -  Goethe

I am not responsible nor is anyone else.  Everything is disclaimed.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: vesper@kong.gsfc.nasa.gov (Greg Vesper - RMS)
Subject: Help Me: Synthetics - The Final Word
Reply-To: vesper@kong.gsfc.nasa.gov
Organization: Goddard Space Flight Center
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 92 13:25:39 GMT

What is the best oil to run in a high performance engine?
I drive a 944T and I maintain it meticulously.  I've talked with several  
mechanics who are down on synthetics.  They claim synthetics are too detergent.
I've been running non-synthetic oil from day one on this car.

But I've talked with other drivers who swear by synthetics.  I want the best  
possible engine protection regardless of cost.  Does anyone know the final word  
on synthetics?  What do they use on the racing circuits?

I want to know because I am about to install high performance chips and I want  
this engine to last.

The same question goes for synthetic transmission fluid.  My transmission is  
stiff - especially in the winter.  I've been told by some that synthetic trans  
fluid will smooth things out - I've been told by others that I'll run into  
problems after 60 miles or so.

Some definitive feedback would be helpful, preferably from someone who's torn  
some engines apart and has seen the long term effects of synthetics.

Thanks,

-Greg.

--
Greg Vesper (vesper@kong.gsfc.nasa.gov)

"Now satan is a liar, and he wants to make us think,
 that we are paupers, when he knows himself we're children of the King.
 So lift up the mighty shield of faith for the battle must be won,
 We know that Jesus Christ is risen so the work's already done."
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: gdw@wylie.b17d.ingr.com (Gary Wylie)
Subject: Re: Anti-seize compound for radiator hoses?
Reply-To: gdw@wylie.b17d.ingr.com
Organization: Intergraph Corp.- Imaging Systems Development
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 18:15:09 GMT

In article <1992Oct15.235308.25535@wuecl.wustl.edu>, christos@wucs1.wustl.edu (Christos Papadopoulos) writes:
|> My question is: is there such a thing? What do you guys use when you change
|> radiator hoses to keep them from sticking to the connections? My manual
|> recomends using some on the hoses, but nobody seems to know about this thing!
|> Please help me if you know anything about it.

I've used a little 'axle grease' spread thinly to help slide the hose
which also seems to serve as an anti-seize compound!  Take care and
use only a very small amount; use just enough to make it 'slick'.
Vaseline would also work well!

Gary
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: michal+@cs.cmu.edu (Michal Prussak)
Subject: Re: What is the air pump used for?
Organization: School of Computer Science, Carnegie Mellon
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 16:38:00 GMT

In article <29135@life.ai.mit.edu> pwu@tang.ai.mit.edu (Peng Wu) writes:
>It still puzzles me why cars cannot run a little bit lean.  There was an
>article on Boston Globe the other day about some invention for lean mixture.
>It mentioned mixture of 20:1 but I am not sure what the mixture ratio the
>invention used.  The common mixture ratio is some 14.7:1.  According to the
>article, lean mixture tends to burn slower.  The invention is about some high
>energy ignition system which may be used on conventional cars already on the
>road.  The advantages are lower emission and higher fuel economy.


Honda did this 15 years ago with their CVCC engines - used from 78-83
on Accords, Preludes and perhaps some Civics. These engines have a
small chamber around the spark plug, which gets normal mixture, while the
main combustion chamber gets lean mixture. The spark ignites the
normal mixture which in turn ignites the lean mixture in the main
chamber. Since the auxiliary chamber is very small, the car runs 
on a lean mixture overall. I don't know if newer Hondas still have
this design. Perhaps with fuel injection, this system is not needed 
anymore?

Michal
From: borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 23:27:56 GMT
Subject: Re: Subaru radiator replacement question
Organization: Hewlett Packard Company, Spokane, Wa.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

In rec.autos.tech, pcotton@vax.clarku.edu writes:

>I have a 1988 SubarGL wageon with 75K miles.  The radiator is beginning to
>show signs of corrosion on the outside.  The dealer is recommending that I
>replace the radiator.  I have two radiators to choose from: 1) a genuine
>Subaru radiator now made with alluminium or 2) an after market radiator that
>is similar to the original.  The latter is about $150 - $200 cheaper than the
>former.  I do plan to keep the car until it dies.  The cost to install the
>Subaru radiator (with new hose and thermostat) is around $420.  Is it reason-
>able to expect that the genuine alluminium Subaru radiator will last long
>enough to justify its higher cost?

Call around at a few more auto parts stores and radiator shops.  I will bet
that you can find a brass (copper?) radiator for about the price you
quoted for the aftermarket replacement.  It will last longer, and can be
repaired if necessary.


Donald Borowski    WA6OMI    Hewlett-Packard, Spokane Division
"Angels are able to fly because they take themselves so lightly."
                                       -G.K. Chesterton

Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:13995 alt.autos.antique:2007
From: sffcu@cuais01.cc.columbia.edu (Stewart Feuerstein)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,alt.autos.antique
Subject: Re: Spark plug specs and old cars
Date: 14 Oct 92 16:30:05 GMT
Organization: Columbia University

In article <1992Oct14.135431.24851@julian.uwo.ca> wlsmith@valve.heart.rri.uwo.ca (Wayne Smith) writes:

>A typical sparkplug (Champion) goes something like RN12YC.
>The R is for resistor, the C for copper.
>Can anyone explain the other parameters?

>My car lists an N14Y plug (65 Dodge, slant-6).

>Can someone explain why resistor plugs are used now, and how the
>added resistance (I measured the resistance of RN12YC to be 30k)
>effects the whole ignition system? (a 25 year old ignition system)

>Could I use an N11YC plug?  What is the best available match today for
>an N14Y plug?

	Resistor plugs are used to reduce electromagnetic noise from the 
cars ignitions system.  If your spark plug wires are in good shape you 
should have no problem using resistor plugs.  The rest of your ignition 
system should be adequate.  If you are really worried about it, buy an 
aftermarket coil (ie. MSD, ACCEL etc...).
	I used to have a document that lists what the spark plug numbers 
mean.  I'll fill you in on what I remember.  The 14 is the heat range of the 
plug.  This is a number that represents how quickly heat is removed from the 
tip of the plug.  This number is very important.  If your plug is runs too 
hot then your car will pre-ignite and diesel.  If the plugs run too cold 
they will not burn off any deposits and will quickly foul and the car will 
run terribly.  I would not run N11YC plugs in place of N14Ys.  Your looking 
for trouble.
	The N and the Y represent the thread size and length of the plug and
other details such as extended tip etc.  I don't remember which is which.  
Clearly you must run the same thread size and length.  If possible you 
should use plugs with the recommended code.  However you could run copper 
tip and resistor versions of the N14Y.  If you auto parts dealer doesn't 
stock the right plugs.  Ask him if he would order them for you.  I am sure 
they are still available.  Plenty of people are still running Chrysler 
slant sixes.
					-Stew
 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: johnson@wrs.com (David Johnson)
Subject: Re: DOHC on a V8 possible?
Organization: Wind River Systems, Inc.
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 02:07:46 GMT

Karl Nordstrom <KXN2@psuvm.psu.edu> writes:

>johnson@wrs.com (David Johnson) says:

>>Now, the vette's susp. geom. certainly has some shortcomings but
>>if you take the "area under the curve" the vettes comes out the winner,

>What shortcomings are you referring too?  I thought the '84 and later
>Vette was supposed to have a great suspension.

The '84 - '86 vettes suspension had grave shortcomings w/respect to
lateral G capabilties.  They were set-up with the ever familiar
"understeer at any cost" attitude of it's GM designers (those same 
people that brought you the famed [insert any GM family sedan name here].

They realized that the rich jerks that read _Road_&_Trash_ and 
_Automosqueal_ won't buy a vette when a 944 will out-corner it,
so they revised the suspension settings and stiffened the springs
(I don't care if they are carbon fiber...they're still springs).
The modifications in suspension settings can be made to any '84 and
later vette, and in racing, changing the settings are plain mandatory
for competitivness in any vette; including '86 and later. 
As far as shortcomings, the settings of the *stock* suspension is basically
it (not including stiff shocks, springs, BFG R-1's :-)  )  but as I said
before, the floating rear axle cars (i.e. camaros and firebirds) have 
shortcomings that no amount of suspension adjusting will be able to
compete with a similarly set-up I.R.S. suspension (i.e. vette).

DAVE (johnson@wrs.com)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: minor@rtsg.mot.com (Kevin Minor)
Subject: Re: Synthetic oil cost and convenience
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 20:21:10 GMT

hasch@jhunix.hcf.jhu.edu (Tsuma Kavazi) writes:

|>Oh boy. I hope I don't get bashed for bringing this up. Just
|>soliciting expertise...
|> 
|>For about the same amount of money, the main dillema is: IS IT
|>BETTER OR WORSE FOR THE ENGINE and it's longevity to go with
|>option 2)? (see below)
|> 
|>The car is a Honda Accord EX, driven 150 miles a day, 90% on
|>highway at about 2800 RPMs. So far I've been using multigrade
|>5W-30 (recc. by Honda), Castrol GTX brand. Changing this oil once
|>a month means I do ca. 3500 miles between oil changes.
|> 
|>I've been considering switching to Mobil 1, and changing the oil
|>every 7000 miles, to help offset higher cost, and spend less time
|>under the car :-)
|> 
|>    Oil     Cost/Change      Filter             Monthly Cost
|>1) Castrol   ( 4.40      +   4.00)    * 1 =       $ 8.40
|>2) Mobil 1   (14.00      +   4.00)    *.5 =       $ 9.00
|> 
|>Input is greatly appreciated.

I'm no expert but would say that you will be alright.
1) Honda has always recommended oil changes every 7500 miles. (The dealers
recommend every 3000 miles.) 
2) Highway mileage is very light on the wear and tear on your car.
On my previous Honda (Prelude Si), I had 107,000 miles in 4 years.
In the last 10-15,000 miles, I was pretty religious about changing the
oil every 3,000. But I would say that for the first 90,000 miles, I 
probably came closer to changing the oil around 7500 miles as recommended
by Honda. I never saw any ill effects from my history. But again, most of
my miles were highway miles. Of course, driving patterns with more engine
starting and stopping and city driving would be a little worse and probably
should stick with the 3000 mile mark.

Today, I'm driving about 100 miles a day and also 90% highway. I'm 
also considering using Mobil 1 and changing every 7000 also.

The oil filter is not exactly in a convienent place on Hondas.
(I hate that.)

I'm interested in knowing what Mobil 1 looks like after 3000 miles and
does it "burn" off any at all ? Is there anyone out there who uses Mobil 1
regularly.

PS. I know there are folks who worship the 3000 mile mark. But if you
have solid reasons (techinical or otherwise) as to the ills of using 
synthetic and changing every 7000 miles, I'd like to hear them.
-- 
	/~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~\
	|	Kevin Minor	UUCP: ...uunet!mcdchg!motcid!minor	|
	|			Mail: minor@rtsg.mot.com		|
	\~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~/
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: elmquist@pez.ssesco.com (Chris Elmquist)
Subject: Re: oxygen sensor  !! YES !!
Organization: SSESCO
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 14:33:52 GMT

Thanks to all who responded to my questions about the O2 sensor--

I replaced mine last night and well, I have a new car for $37.  This has
solved a very long (3 year), annoying problem with my '87 Integra.  The
car has been to all Acura dealers in Minnesota...  with each one replacing
various major components (computer, idle control valves, throttle body)
and doing all sorts of tuneup things like injector cleaning, new plugs, etc.
None of which made any improvement.  They are clearly unable to diagnose
these sorts of problems.

I spent 10 minutes with my multi-meter measuring the voltage from the O2
sensor and it was totally fubar.  The Acura service manual states that
you should get a voltage of less than .4v at idle (after fully warming
the engine) and something greater than .6v at open throttle.  I was getting
totally random readings at idle--  sometimes .1v sometimes .9v...  it would
always settle out to some value but each time I opened the throttle and
then closed it, it would settle out to a different value... anywhere in
the range .1v to .9v.  At open throttle, it read close to 0v...  *all
screwed up*.

I had called Acura yesterday just to check their price:
They want $130 for the sensor and $26 to install it. But they don't
stock them.  Fools...  I asked the service manager there if
they ever have these O2 sensors go bad--  he said NEVER...  They have never
replaced one and that's why they don't stock them.  FOOLS!!

I got mine at the corner auto parts store (A Bosch one-wire unit) for
$36.99 and then $17.99 for a O2 sensor/temp sending unit socket... (it
has a slot cut down the side so it fits over the connecting wire
properly).  After 30 minutes of fumbling around (15 of which was spent
waiting for the manifold to cool down)... I had it replaced.

The difference was immediately noticeable...  the car idles like it did
when it was new!  except, now it has 86K on it.  The idle is rock solid
and doesn't oscillate between 850 and 500 RPM like it used to.  Accelerating/
decelerating are smooth as can be...  rather than the choppy/surging kind
of thing it used to do.  It's zippier from a dead start and it just plain
sounds like it's running better (psychomechanics ?? :-) ) Anyway--

I am truely grateful to net.wisdom and all the folks who provided details
about operation and testing of O2 sensors...  You've given me my car back
and great peace of mind.  Thank you.

Chris

 
Chris Elmquist, N0JCF
elmquist@SSESCO.com
73267.2711@Compuserve.com
(612)342-0003@work (8am-5pm CST6CDT)
From: erl@swl.msd.ray.com (ERIC LEETE)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Gold Spark Plugs
Date: 16 Oct 92 16:52:33 GMT
Article-I.D.: swlvx2.1992Oct16.165233.20313
Distribution: na
Organization: Raytheon Company, Tewksbury, Mass.

In article <26367@oasys.dt.navy.mil> bense@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ronald Bense) writes:
>In rec.autos.tech, awds_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (ClarkKent) writes:
>>saw Champion Gold plugs.  I sure they're not solid gold, nor that
>>much more expensive than platinum.  Gold's a great conductor, right?
>>Any thoughts on these?
>
>Yes, platinum is a better conductor than gold, if I remember my physics
>correctly. (I also think it is more expensive, but that might be another
>element)
>

Actually gold is a better conductor than platinum, and cheaper, too.
Platinum is used in sparks plugs for the same reason it's used in
catalytic converters - it is a catalyst for the combustion of
hydrocarbons.

 erl
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rossi@gvlf9-q.gvl.unisys.com (Pete Rossi)
Subject: Re: How to loosen the brake assembly when changing pads?
Organization: Paramax Systems Corp (A Unisys Company), Great Valley Labs, PA
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 14:07:20 GMT

In article <1b12v4INNgi2@bigboote.WPI.EDU> damong@wpi.WPI.EDU (Damon Francis Gentile) writes:

>Well, to save the agony of bleeding, you can open the brake fluid reservoir
>and place a rag over it to be sure that the fluid won't spurt out. You can
>than simply push the piston back by hand or, I've always used a C-clamp and
>a scrap of wood to prevent damage to the cylinder. This is the way that I've
>always done it and it is the approved Fiat method (like it means something,
>too....)

This method is basically what my GM service manual says to do too.  Simple and
cheap (if you already have a big C-clamp).  Only problem is the piston will
tend to want to come back out by itself a little so you have to push it back
in (way back in) again just after you put the new pads on and are about
to put the caliper back on. 

=================================================================
Pete Rossi - WA3NNA                  rossi@gvl.unisys.com

Paramax Systems Corporation - a Unisys Company
Electronic Systems - Valley Forge Labs - Paoli, Pennsylvania
=================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sharen@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com (Sharen A. Rund)
Subject: Re: Performance Truck Parts
Organization: Lockheed Missiles and Space Co.
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 92 19:46:28 GMT

In article <1253@tdat.teradata.COM> jxr@nsc29teradata.com (Jon Robertson) writes:
>In article <1992Oct09.120739.115720@lexmark.com>, mollett@lexmark.com (Vic Mollett) writes:
>|> I am considering building a performance mini-truck (not an off-road vehicle,
>|> nor one of those trucks that rides 1mm off the pavement, but rather like the
>|> SCCA racing trucks) and I'm trying to figure out which model has the most
>|> suppliers of parts.  I know that most of the manufacturers have a racing truck,
>|> but that does not mean that they do not fabricate a lot of the parts that they
>|> use in the trucks.  If anyone can point me in the direction of suppliers and/or
>|> publications that deal with the matter, I would be most appreciative!!  Also,
>|> if anyone has any experience with building such a truck, I would be interested
>|> in hearing that as well.
>|> 

I can't tell from your sig where you're from, if you're anywhere near the
west coast I can direct you to several places that can help you in  
your pursuit.....

-- 
________________       __        ________________   "They that can give up
\_________      \     /_ \      /      _________/  essential liberty to 
 \_________      \_____/  \____/      _________/  obtain temporary safety
  \___________________      __________________/  deserve neither liberty 
                     /______\                   nor safety."  
ALL disclaimers apply ....                           --Benjamin Franklin
	  
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,alt.autos.antique
From: sffcu@cuais01.cc.columbia.edu (Stewart Feuerstein)
Subject: Re: Spark plug specs and old cars
Organization: Columbia University
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 20:06:38 GMT

In article <1992Oct15.174409.14081@miki.pictel.com> harling@miki.pictel.com (Dan Harling) writes:

>In article <sffcu.6@cuais01.cc.columbia.edu> sffcu@cuais01.cc.columbia.edu (Stewart Feuerstein) writes:
>>
>>      The 14 is the heat range of the 
>>plug.  This is a number that represents how quickly heat is removed from the 
>>tip of the plug...
>>      The N and the Y represent the thread size and length of the plug and
>>other details such as extended tip etc...

>I was always under the impression that the heat range was at least
>related to the length of the plug; i.e., how far into the heads they
>extend.  Given the 14's I took out of my car and the 18's I bought to
>replace them to prevent fouling (all other digits being equal), the
>18's had visibly more length to the threaded section.  This makes
>sense, as putting the plug further into the cylinder will cause it to
>pick up more heat.

	Daniel,
	The threads should be the same,  I have heard that longer threads can
cause problems with the piston hitting the plug and also with the sharp 
threads becoming very hot and causing preignition.  As I understand it the 
heat range is determined by the heat transfer characteristics of the 
insulator (how thick or thin it is).  The length of the insulator and tip 
(extended tip) can also have a bearing on the heat range.  However I have 
always thought that it was all taken into account in the heat range number.  
So that a 14 extended tip plug will run about as hot as a 14 non-extended 
tip.
				-Stew
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty)
Subject: Re: Fuel Injection Question
Organization: New York State Institute for Sebastian Cabot Studies
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 18:54:52 GMT

In article <1992Oct06.214032.31252@lobo.rmhs.colorado.edu> seanr@lobo.rmhs.colorado.edu (Sean Reifschneider) writes:
>In article <1992Oct5.181410.3762@cabot.balltown.cma.COM> welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty) writes:
>Neither of my cars has an extra injector for fule for cold starts.  The Mazda
>EGI in my RX-7 has one for 90% antifreeze solution, but that's a different
>story.  The Bosch L-Jetronic systems mainly use air flow to regulate
>the fule flow.  I beileve that the L Jetronic system is the one that I
>was reading about with the aux air valve.  This preforms the same purpose
>as the thermo time switch and extra fule injector because it closes over
>time when it's cold, and due to the extra air flowing, it uses more fule.

My L-jetronic car, and my girlfriend's L-jetronic car, both have a
thermo time switch and a cold start injector.  My D-Jetronic car
also has a cold start injector; i'm sure it has a temp sensor to control
it somewhere, but i've not needed to mess with that.

on the Bosch L and D injected cars i have worked on, the cold start
injector is always located after the throttle body, firing into the intake
plenum.

by the way: Bosch L uses air flow; Bosch LH uses air mass; Bosch D
uses intake manifold vacuum.

richard
-- 
richard welty                            518-393-7228
welty@cabot.balltown.cma.com
  ``if you can read this, mario, you're too close''
    -- bumper sticker seen on a CART safety truck
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ycheah@hamp.hampshire.edu
Subject: Re: Using Syntheticdir/new
Organization: Hampshire College
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 07:25:20 GMT

In article <24850017@hpgrla.gr.hp.com>, mikec@hpgrla.gr.hp.com (Mike Christensen) writes:
> Changing from mineral to synthetic is where the real problem can occur.
> This only occurs on engines that are dirty or worn from infrequent changes of 
> inexpensive oil.  Two problems can result: 1) excessive leaking of the
> synthetic, and 2) though not as common, seizure due to all the filth comming 
> free and clogging up the oil lines.  If you have maintained your car properly,
> used an oil like castrol, and have less than 70,000 miles on the
> car, you probably won't see any problems.
> 
> 					Mike Christensen

Why should synthetic oil be more likely to loosen filth than your average, say
Castrol, non-synthetic oil? I have not heard of any good explainations. Or good 
evidence.

Yin-chai