HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: mikey@eukanuba.wpd.sgi.com (Mike Yang)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: GM Paint peels!
Date: 8 Jan 93 21:36:42 GMT
Reply-To: mikey@sgi.com
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc.

My 1989 Chevy S-10 Blazer was partially repainted about one year after
I got it when I complained that portions of it were just peeling off
(mostly in one tone of the two-tone paint).  Then, another year later
the car was completely repainted when portions of the other tone
started to peel.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                 Mike Yang        Silicon Graphics, Inc.
               mikey@sgi.com           415/390-1786
From: dennis@hpcvra.cv.hp.com (Dennis Schloeman)
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 16:53:48 GMT
Subject: WANTED:  1962 TR4 SEATS
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Corvallis, OR, USA
Newsgroups: rec.autos

WANTED:  Recoverable Seats and Seat Frames

My brother-in-law is looking for recoverable seats
and seat frames for a 1962 Triumph TR4.

I would prefer that you contact him directly if
you can help him.

His name is Doug Elder and he will accept collect
telephone calls at (503) 476-9738 or he can be
contacted at:

             170 Smokey Lane
             Grants Pass, OR 97527

If all else fails, go ahead and respond to this
basenote.

Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: dy@dancer.cc.bellcore.com (yatcilla,douglas a)
Subject: Re: warm up a car in winter
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 93 20:05:29 GMT

In his book "Car Tips for Clean Air" (ISBN# 0-399-51649-2) Bob
Sikorsky says pollution control is the main reason to limit
the time spent "warming up" the car on a cold, winter morning.

First, background info from his book:  Cold cars pollute
excessively because...

- Fuel/air mix has to be extra rich (fuel vaporizes less when cold
  than when warm.)  Inefficient combusion = raw gasoline escaping
  out tailpipe = pollution.

- Catalytic converters need to be 400-500 deg F before they start to
  eliminate pollutants out of the exhaust gas.

- Oxygen sensor only works when warm.  NOx emmisions will be high
  until the O2 sensor starts to work.

Sikorsky goes on to say that a cold engine should not be warmed by
idling.  He says not to idle for more than 15 *SECONDS* before putting
the car in gear.  His reason is that a car under "road load" (in gear
and moving) warms up FASTER than one that idles.  Faster warm up =
faster O2 sensor activation and faster catalytic converter operation =
less pollution than an idling car.

He also endorses the use of engine oil heaters.

"Oxygenated" gasoline in used in most urban parts of the USA in
the winter months.  I think one motivation for its use is that lots of
people idle their autos excessively in order to "warm them up."  For
example, on a cold morning, my roommate refuses to move his 1991 Blazer
until it has idled at lease 15 minutes.

Ironic aside:  The book was published in 1991 and at one point,
Sikorsky attributes Roger Smith with saying that 83% of all auto
pollution is produced by cars made before 1983 ("83-83 rule".)  The
message is that you should trade up to a newer car if you have an
old polluter.  This seems counter the thesis in Sikorsky's earlier
book "Drive It Forever!" but he doesn't mention it.

NOW... I've been told that driving a car slowly to warm it up will
cause less engine wear (not talking about pollution now) than letting
it idle.  Can someone give me a reason for that if it's true???  In
other words, does it matter if, say, a '67 Camaro (i.e. no modern
emission control equipment) is idled rather than driven to warm it up?
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: rvn@icd.teradyne.com (Rafael Vidaillet)
Subject: Re: 300zx steering vibration
Reply-To: rvn@icd.teradyne.com
Organization: Teradyne, Inc. Boston MA
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 20:16:02 GMT

|>I own an 85 nissan 300zx, a great car, no problems what so ever and it has
|>over 125,000 miles!!!  I guess i'm kind of lucky.  Anyways the only problem
|>that I am encountering is that when ever I slowly brake to get off an off
|> ramp or just come to a slow stop the steering wheel tends to vibrate.  

	Sounds to me you should have your rotors checked.  In Eagle Talons 
and other cars, if the wheel nuts are not torque'ed, you get disc rotor
warpage and it behaves like you have just described.  Have your rotors
ever been replaced?  Maybe they got too thin and lost their shape......

	_RV

 ______________________________________________________________________
/                                                                      \
|                 He who dies with the most toys wins!                 |
|______________________________________________________________________|
| Rafael Vidaillet--MS: H71|   Internet:  rvn@dewey.icd.teradyne.com   |
| Teradyne Inc.            |                              _            |
| 321 Harrison Ave.        |   Voice:   (617) 422-2422   |_) \  /      |
| Boston, Ma. 02118        |   Fax:     (617) 422-2837   | \  \/       |
\______________________________________________________________________/
From: tut@cairo.Eng.Sun.COM (Bill "Bill" Tuthill)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Why is US engine technology so retrograde?
Date: 8 Jan 93 00:52:30 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems Inc., Mountain View, CA
NNTP-Posting-Host: cairo

Could someone please describe the technology tradeoffs between
large-displacement (mostly US) engines, and multi-valve engines
with smaller displacement?  I'm wondering whether US technology
is just behind, or whether I'm missing something.

For example, consider the best-selling US car, the Ford Taurus.
The base model has a 3 liter V6 engine with overhead valves; I
believe this is called a pushrod engine.  This engine produces
140 HP and 160 ft.lbs. torque.  By contrast, the BMW 325i engine
displaces only 2.5 liters, yet produces 189 HP and 181 ft.lbs. of
torque.  And the engine in the Acura Integra displaces only 1.8
liters, yet produces the same 140 HP as the Taurus engine (less
torque though, at 126).

I've heard that a double overhead cam requires less tuning than
a pushrod or single overhead cam, because of greater rotational
efficiency.  Is the main reason for larger displacement to produce
greater torque with similar fuel consumption?

When Ford needed a DOHC engine for the Taurus SHO, they just had
Yamaha build it.  I know Saturn produces some very nice SOHC and
DOHC engines, but GM doesn't seem to use these anywhere else in its
product line.  And Chrysler still produces mostly pushrod engines.
From: keys@starchild.ncsl.nist.gov (Lawrence B. Keys)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Protective Coating for Auto Transport?
Date: 8 Jan 93 18:53:52 GMT
Organization: National Institute of Standards & Technology

In article <1ikenfINNfc7@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> ah190@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Stuart Pearl) writes:
>
>Recently during rapidly deteriorating negotiations on a new Sable,
>the sales manager (the CLOSER himself) said one of the reasons he
>had to charge me $250 for dealer prep was to clean off the special
>coating on the new car.
>
>"What is that?" I inquired, blood pressure rising further.
>
>"When they ship the car from the factory, they put a special coating
>(spray?) on the paint to protect it from the road dirt, weather and
>salt.  My prep guy has to take that off with a solvent and I'm sure
>you wouldn't want to do that, and that's all part of dealer prep."
>
>This took me by surprise - I had never heard of such a thing.  I thought
>they just ran the damn vehicle through their car wash when it arrived.
>Is this truth or more sales science fiction?


When i bought my car, there were several cars on the lot that had
just rolled of the truck.  They were all covered with a substance
which feels like wax.  These cars were VW's btw.  My car still has
a little in the door jambs near the hinges.  

But, i didn't pay extra to have it removed!


>-stu
>-- 
>                   ---===<<< Stuart Pearl >>>===---
>                           Cleveland, Ohio
>                      ah190@cleveland.freenet.edu
>                         --------------------

                                                  .  
                                                 /                
Larry                            __/    _______/_                 
keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov       /                  \               
                          _____     __     _____    \------- ===
            ----------- / ____/   /  /   /__  __/              \
         /     ___    /  / ___   /  /      / /    ____          |
        |    /      \/ /__ /  | /  /__  __/ /__ /       \      / 
        /___         \_______/ /_____/ /______/            ====OO
            \       /                           \       /         
                -                                   -
       ---------------- FAHRVERGNUGEN FOREVER! --------------------            
            The fact that I need to explain it to you indicates
            that you probably wouldn't understand anyway!
       ------------------------------------------------------------
From: basiji@stein.u.washington.edu (David Basiji)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Get a car heated in winter: How long is appropriate?
Date: 7 Jan 1993 16:14:03 GMT
Organization: University of Washington
NNTP-Posting-Host: stein.u.washington.edu
Keywords: Heating

issa@cwis.unomaha.edu (Issa El-Hazin) writes:

>sharen@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com (Sharen A. Rund) writes:

>>In article <C0G89q.Dox@news.iastate.edu> rdu@iastate.edu (Runqing Du) writes:

>>warmed up without overheating and freezing up - also, if you can wait till 
>>11pm to do the job, its a bit better, the coldest part of the evening
>>hasn't come yet, and, if you don't leave the house till late you may want
>>to consider running it again in the morning, especially if the temp gets
>>lowered even more so by the wind chill
>                             ----------

>Cars never feel wind chill. Only living things (i.e. people) do.
>or Am I wrong?


Anything that's moist from water or other fluids will feel "windchill".
WC is just additional cooling due to evaporation of the fluid.
Evaporative refrigerators work on this principle...take a sheetmetal box,
cover it with canvas, soak the canvas with water, within a couple of hours
the evaporation of the water will cool the box along with whatever is inside.
(you also need a reservoir of water dripping onto the canvas to keep it
from drying out.)

Cheers,

David Basiji
UW Bioengineering
NeRD #3762

Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: karen@synopsys.com (Karen Vahtra)
Subject: Re: Accuracy of Those Car Price Books
Keywords: n
Organization: Synopsys, Inc.
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 17:37:46 GMT

My experience was identical.  I used the New Car Buyers Guide or such and the
numbers the guy gave me were exact!

>My advice is that almost all dealers have fleet guys.  Just walk in and as for the
>fleet manager.

I just did the same a week ago and ordered a Ford Explorer exactly as I wanted.
The fleet guy spent a few weeks looking for one.  I wanted everything but fancy
seats and no one had them anywhere in Northern California that weren't already
sold.  The fleet guy was very nice, had many years in the car business, knew
exactly what he was talking about, gave me exactly 3% over invoice.  I needed
absolutely no qualifications to talk to him.  


Karen

Xref: sparky rec.autos:31099 misc.consumers:21616 seattle.general:4349
From: brianr@phred.UUCP (Brian Reese)
Newsgroups: rec.autos,misc.consumers,seattle.general
Subject: Mechanic Recommendation please
Summary: Need Ford mechanic
Date: 28 Dec 92 18:07:14 GMT
Reply-To: brianr@phred.UUCP (Brian Reese)
Distribution: seattle
Organization: Physio-Control Corp., Redmond, Wa.


I am looking for a reputable mechanic to work on my '89 Ford Tempo front-end.
I would prefer someone on the Eastside in the Bellevue-Redmond-Kirkland area.
Would anyone care to make a recommendation?  Please e-mail to me directly as
this is cross-posted to several local groups and I may not get a chance to 
read all the posted replies.

Thanx,
Brian

-- 
Brian Reese                                 uunet!pilchuck!phred!brianr
Physio-Control Corp., Redmond, Wa.                    brianr@phred.UUCP
"Sticks and stones may break my bones, but whips and chains excite me!"
From: asbestos@nwu.edu (Michael A. Atkinson)
Subject: Re: Under dash Radar Detector
Followup-To: rec.autos
Originator: mikea@casbah.acns.nwu.edu
Organization: Chaos
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 23:36:24 GMT

ss@wpi.WPI.EDU (Scott Streeter) writes:

>Can anyone recommend an under the dash style radar detector that
>detects all 3 bands?  Thanks.

To provide the best sensitivity, and therefore the earliest warnings, the
antenna must be not be obstructed, and should be high in the vehicle.  For
me, the best place is on the driver's visor, unless I need the visor.  Then
I move it to the passenger's visor.  Two antennae, one facing front and one
facing rear, are more effective than one.  If the antenna on your Deflector
Shields^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^Hradar detector is obstructed by
things like the dash, the hood, or the engine, sensitivity and warning
times will drop quite a bit for less than full power signals (in which
case, you've probably had it).

I highly recommend the Uniden Stalker Wide band.  It recieves all legal
frequencies of police radar (laser is NOT radar), and has provided
exceptionally good warning time (~one mile away, around a curve, on the
other side of the hill, all at once!).  I've never gotten a speeding ticket
with it.

But *nothing* beats the Mark I eyeball.  I've had some amazing kills that,
since I was the only car on the road and he used Instant On, would have
made me very unhappy other than that I spotted the speedtrap before I got
to it.  (STOMP on the brakes, pass through 55 as the radar detector goes
BEEPBEEPBEEPBEEPBEEP!!! and my girlfriend says "Cop Cop Cop!") 

I don't know squat about remote antennae for radar detectors, except that
I'm pretty sure they exist.

Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong about any of this.

Mike Atkinson

-- 
Michael A. Atkinson    | "Macintoy" is Copyright (c)1992 by 
asbestos@nwu.edu       |                 Chaos Organization.
                         
            A Libertarian and an NRA member.
Newsgroups: rec.autos,rec.autos.tech
From: jnissen@austin.ibm.com ()
Subject: Re: What is the resonable oil comsumption?
Originator: jnissen@jnissen.austin.ibm.com
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 13:41:19 GMT
Organization: IBM Austin Advanced Workstation Division


In article <1992Dec30.154753.13635@samba.oit.unc.edu>, Mike.Oniffrey@launchpad.unc.edu (Mike Oniffrey) writes:
> <gong@cbnewsc.cb.att.com> (jiechen.james.gong) writes:
> 
> 	I have a 68000 milse '86 190E/2.3.  It needs more than a
> 	quart of oil between 3000 miles oil change.  The compres-
> 	sion test showing the engine is still like new. What is the
> 	your experience on the engine oil consumption for this car? 
> 
> Of course, an engine in good shape should burn little oil over the body of
> its lifetime, but parts wear, and there comes a time when one must make a
> judgement call.  A rule of thumb is as long as yer block is
> burning/consuming (god forbid any leaks onto the clean road!  :) ) less
> than a quart in 500 miles, let it go. When you pass this threshold, it's
> rebuild-time.  Granted, this came out of an early-70s theory book; mebbe
> these days, with today's environment, this rule of thumb should be amputated.
> 
> onif
> 

Have you overheated the engine recently?  Overheating a motor can cause the 
oil rings to loose tension and high oil consumption can occur. I had the 
unfortunate experience of having a lower mileage motor do this to me once.
Also check to see that the proper type of motor oil is being used.
-- 
 _/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/
 _/      Jim Nissen                jnissen@jnissen.austin.ibm.com  _/
 _/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Get a car heated in winter: How long is appropriate?
From: stubbs@hawk.cs.ukans.edu (Jerry Stubbs)
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 20:54:12 GMT
Organization: University of Kansas Computer Science Dept
Keywords: Heating


Also, the heat will be blown away quicker with a breeze from 
a dry surface. Insulation in your house keeps air from 
circulating and transfering heat away from your dry walls.


From: hovnania@iftccu.boeing.com (Paul Hovnanian)
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 21:05:00 GMT
Subject: Re: Braking techniques
Organization: Boeing Commercial Airplane Group
Newsgroups: rec.autos

/ iftccu:rec.autos / vetter@mtu.edu (STEVEN J. VETTER) /  9:33 am  Jan  5, 1993 /
vwelch@ncsa.uiuc.edu (Von Welch) writes:
>In article <C0D4oy.A4A@news.cso.uiuc.edu>, bsmg9810@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Bhaskar S.Manda) writes:
><stuff blown away>
>|> 1. Since engine braking has nothing to do with the tire/road
>|>    contact, it should not cause skidding or loss of control.
>|>    True ? Counterexamples ?
>
>Hmmm. Breaks and downshifting both just attempt to slow down the rotational
>speed of the wheels, just by different means. You can cause the wheels to slip
>with a hard downshift just as you could with hard braking (I've done it).
>It's a little harder to do since at least in my car you pretty much
>have to pop the clutch. I think engine braking give better feedback then
>the brakes.
>
>-- 
>Von Welch (vwelch@ncsa.uiuc.edu)	NCSA Networking Development Group
>
>- I speak only for myself and those who think exactly like me 


  I've read an awful lot from people who advocate and frequently use engine braking
  as a means of slowing down.  Whereas I admit it is sometimes extremely useful, the 
  idea of regularly downshifting in a stick to break seems completely ridiculous to me.
  I'd much rather wear out my brake pads which are designed to be regularly replaced, than
  my clutch which isn`t.  Can someone please explain to me why so many people insist on 
  using their transmissions as brakes?

  This is not a flame, I just don't quite get why so many people regularly engine brake.  

-
-- 
Steve Vetter     DISCLAIMER-  The opinions expressed here are not those of
vetter@mtu.edu                my employer,  because I don`t have one yet.  If  
                              you wish for these opinions to be your company's,
Damn it's Cold!!!             or not, send e-mail to :  vetter@mtu.edu 
----------
Newsgroups: rec.autos,rec.autos.tech
From: schludermann@sscvx1.ssc.gov
Subject: WANTED:T5 Chivvy tranny
Organization: Superconducting Super Collider Laboratory
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 22:31:13 GMT

wanted for a 1985 z-28. T5 transmission in good shape.

Kris

Organization: Pittsburgh Supercomputing Center, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1993 14:36:39 -0500 
From: "Joseph C. Lappa" <jl8p+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Internation Car show in Detroit Questions


Hi,

   I have two questions for anyone who might have gone to the Car show
in Detroit.  

  1)  How does one go about getting tickets for it?

  2)  Does anyone have any details on the new Ford Mach III Mustang
introduced        at the show for 1994 (late year)???!?


Thanks!!
Joe
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Car dealers
From: thomas@datamark.co.nz (Thomas Beagle)
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 19:34:17 GMT
Organization: Datamark International Ltd.

>In article <1993Jan11.003544.5756@netcom.com> mzimmers@netcom.com (Michael Zimmers) writes:
>
>   In article <1993Jan6.110906.3693@csdvax.csd.unsw.edu.au> patrick@csdvax.csd.unsw.edu.au writes:
>
>   >Toyota dealers have nothing to do with Toyota. Toyota is a manufacturer
>   >_not_ a vendor. 
>
>   This is technically true, but a very poor attitude for the manufacturer
>   to take.  I know of no other end-user commodity in which the maker gives
>   the suppliers the latitude that the carmakers give their dealers.  And
>   whether valid or not, most customers will associate the maker with the
>   dealer.  Were I a carmaker, I'd be living in my dealers' shorts, making
>   sure they weren't sullying my reputation and damaging future revenue
>   prospects.

Yes, but when you do this sort of thing, they tend to use terms such
as "restraint of trade" and "price fixing".

They're your laws, you've got to live with them.

-- 
    Thomas Beagle | thomas@datamark.co.nz           Work: 64 4 233 8186
Datamark Intl Ltd | thomas@cavebbs.welly.gen.nz     Home: 64 4 499 3832
 Technical Writer | Yes, I do have long ears, a black nose, and a tail.
From: rpalmer@Think.COM (Ralph Palmer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Additional Spray Stuff of Various Types - To Buy or Not?
Date: 7 Jan 1993 14:21:12 GMT
Organization: Thinking Machines Corporation, Cambridge MA, USA
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: basie.think.com

The sealents are one of the biggest scams going in the car biz.
Buy a $5 can of turtle wax and put two coats on the car.  Then
wax it every 6 months.  Buy a $10 can of 3M Scotch Guard
fabric sealer (that is the same stuff that the dealer will use)
and while in an open environment spray the fabric.  Get a $5 bottle
of ArmorAll apply it to all the vynal in the car every 3-4 months
and use a $3 cardboard windshield visor to keep out the hot AZ
sun while the car is parked.

The sprays are the latest in a long line of dealer ripoffs.  If you
*really* want it, drive the car home, wait a couple of weeks then
go back and ask how much it will cost.  I'll bet the price drops
by 1/2.  There is no better time to get a person to buy useless frills
then when he only has to increase their loan payments by $10/month 


					=Ralph Palmer=

my hatred for car dealerships is mine alone and does not reflect
the views of my company




Newsgroups: rec.autos
From:  (jmhodapp@aplcomm.jhuapl.edu)
Subject: Question concerning sudden stall from idle
Organization: master/peon
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 93 13:53:42 GMT

I have a Porsche 944 that decided to quit while waiting at a stoplight;
the RPM's just dropped to zero.  It would start, run for a quarter of a second, 
then stall again. It would not idle, and revving the gas would not help it.
After towing it to a local service station, the guy reported the next morning that
it 'Runs Great" - the problem could not be duplicated.  I have a friend of a 
friend who claims that  the Porsche fuel pump is like the one used by VW, and
that it is crap.  Questions:

A) How likely/accurate is this possibility?
   If not, any better suggestions?

B) How hard/easy is it to change the fuel pump on a 944?

Any info would be appreciated.

Jon jmhodapp@aplcomm.jhuapl.edu
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