HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: okunewck@psuvax1.cs.psu.edu (Phil OKunewick)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
Subject: Re: Stained Glass Window
Keywords: window stained glass
Date: 9 Apr 92 17:30:27 GMT
Article-I.D.: cs.$4cHm&!l6
Distribution: na
Organization: Random, at best

>I have some friends who are purchasing a new home.  They would
>like a stained glass window done for their bathroom.  it would be
>a half circle piece about 1.5 foot in diameter.

   A few considerations: Stained glass joints aren't exactly
waterproof.  In addition, the neighborhood brat is going to try to
throw a rock through it or shoot it with a pellet gun.

   A well-made outside window is imperative.  It would be best to have
a standard storm window the size of the stained glass one, and mount
the stained glass on it inside the room.  (My sister once put a golf
ball through a storm window - it broke the outer glass but didn't go
through the inner.)

   If you use frosted glass for the outside window, the neighborhood
brat will be less likely to notice this pretty thing that needs to be
destroyed.  On the other hand, diffusing the sunlight will prevent you
from getting the pretty projection inside the room.  But a bubbled
glass will hide the stained glass and do all sorts of interesting
things with the colors all over the room.

   As for corrosion on the inside, perhaps you want this.  You get a
rustic look that way.  Once lead developes its protective layer of
corrosion, it tends to be very weatherproof.  (Slice a fishing weight
in half and soak it in salt water for a year - the sliced area will go
dull but that's about it.)

   But what do I know?  I grew up in a neighborhood where there
weren't any stained glass windows; just kids with pellet guns and
plenty of rocks.  (They took their juvenile frustrations out on
aluminum siding instead.)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
From: mdm@bnr.ca (Diane MacMartin)
Subject: Newspaper preservation technique needed
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Ottawa
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1992 14:00:59 GMT

Hi,

My sister met her future husband through a classified ad; for a
wedding gift, I managed to dredge up a copy of the original ad (which 
neither of them thought to keep).  I have made a fabric-covered
illustration board frame, and now am wondering how to attach it to the
fabric.

I was thinking of using Podge-type glue to stick it and glaze it. 
Another alternative would be the clear plastic envelopes which stamp
collectors use.

Would anyone out there have suggestions as to the best way to apply
the ad to the fabric, with regards to preservation and yellowing-
prevention?  Please email to mdm@bnr.ca, or post here.

THANKS!

-- 
Diane MacMartin       Bell-Northern Research, Ltd     Ottawa, Canada
mdm@bnr.ca            Any opinions are my own and do not represent BNR.
=========>> If this is printed on paper, please recycle it <<==========
From: lillyj@ohsu.edu (Jill Lilly)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
Subject: Re: Newspaper preservation technique needed
Date: 9 Apr 92 19:03:26 GMT
Article-I.D.: ohsu.1992Apr9.190326.8519
Organization: Oregon Health Sciences Univ.

In article <1992Apr9.140059.16088@bcrka451.bnr.ca>, mdm@bnr.ca (Diane MacMartin) writes:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> My sister met her future husband through a classified ad; for a
> wedding gift, I managed to dredge up a copy of the original ad (which 
> neither of them thought to keep).  I have made a fabric-covered
> illustration board frame, and now am wondering how to attach it to the
> fabric.
> 
> I was thinking of using Podge-type glue to stick it and glaze it. 
> Another alternative would be the clear plastic envelopes which stamp
> collectors use.
> 
> Would anyone out there have suggestions as to the best way to apply
> the ad to the fabric, with regards to preservation and yellowing-
> prevention?  Please email to mdm@bnr.ca, or post here.
> 
> THANKS!
> 
> -- 
> Diane MacMartin       Bell-Northern Research, Ltd     Ottawa, Canada
> mdm@bnr.ca            Any opinions are my own and do not represent BNR.
> =========>> If this is printed on paper, please recycle it <<==========
> 
> 

If you are going to use any kind of glaze, there is something you should do
to treat the piece of newspaper first. If you don't treat the back, it can 
ruin the newspaper to put any kind of varnish or glaze on. Paint the _back_ 
of the piece black. Use a spray on or brush on paint. This will keep the 
printing on the back of the newspaper from bleeding through when you glaze it.
If you don't treat the paper in any way, I'm sure you know it will turn 
yellow and crumble. Putting it in a plastic envelope would help some.
Good luck. 
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
From: driel@wpi.WPI.EDU (Deborah M Riel)
Subject: Re: Stained Glass Window
Keywords: window stained glass
Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1992 13:36:07 GMT

In article <1992Apr8.114245.14369@relay.nswc.navy.mil> snorthc@relay.nswc.navy.mil (Stephen Northcutt) writes:
>>I have some friends who are purchasing a new home.  They would
>>like a stained glass window done for their bathroom.  it would be
>>a half circle piece about 1.5 foot in diameter.
>
>	5. any special insulation factors (chicago-land area)
>		a) clear glass on both sides
>
>Yes you probably want to sandwich this window on both sides to
>protect it as well as insulate.  You will need to make at least the
>inside plate removable for cleaning in case it does condense and

Have you (your friends) considered installing a permanent window of 
plain window glass (or thermopane for better insulation) and then 
fitting a stained glass panel into the exact space on the inside of the
room?  This way, you wouldn't have to worry about insulating the panel 
itself, it would be accessible for cleaning, and they wouldn't have 
to leave it behind if they moved.  If it was fitted properly into the
space, it would look like a permanently installed window.

-Debbie
From: willow@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (cheryl.ann.frech)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
Subject: Stained Glass Window
Keywords: window stained glass
Date: 8 Apr 92 03:58:23 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: AT&T


I have some friends who are purchasing a new home.  They would
like a stained glass window done for their bathroom.  it would be
a half circle piece about 1.5 foot in diameter.

It has been many years since I have done any stained glass (since
I found an equally expensive and addictive hobby - quilting).  I
have never done anything which has gone in/become an actual window.
I haven't agreed to do this yet but am heavily considering it.

To start with if I do it I will take an advanced class so I have
someone to get advice from and teach me the things I hopefully
will need to know so it will fit when I am done.

My questions are as follows:

	1. any things to be concerned with in a bathroom.
		a) high humidity?
	2. what do I need to think of since this will be
	   a window.
	3. any good books out there on windows which are stained
   	   glass.
	4. any special reinforcement.
	5. any special insulation factors (chicago-land area)
		a) clear glass on both sides
	6. is lead or copper foil better for windows
	7. advice
	
Thanks in advance.
			Cheryl Frech
From: auga@genealogy.Eng.Sun.COM (Dan Auga)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
Subject: Re: REFRIGERATOR MAGNETS  (raw material)
Date: 16 Apr 92 00:10:18 GMT
Reply-To: auga@genealogy.Eng.Sun.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems
NNTP-Posting-Host: genealogy

I have found a good source of Refrigerator Magnets is from Edmunds Scientif Company.
They have 100's of size, shapes and strenth.

The are located in Barrington, NJ. 08007-1380.

Phone#'s:

ordering
609-573-6250
609-547-3488
Fax
609-573-6295

product info 609-573-6259
From: 33s@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Angie Brvenik)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
Subject: Re: need source for REFRIGERATOR MAGNETS  (raw material)
Date: 6 Apr 92 16:18:05 GMT
Reply-To: 33s@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Angie Brvenik)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD



While we are on the subject, Im a MAGNET Freak!  I love magnets!  Especially
those that look like food, but their sooooo expensive.  I saw some just
recently that was actual food that had been treated with a very shiney
and hard gloss.  Does anyone know what this stuff is and where I can
find it?  Does anyone know how they make the fake food?


--Angie
From: snorthc@relay.nswc.navy.mil (Stephen Northcutt)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
Subject: Re: Stained Glass Window
Keywords: window stained glass
Date: 8 Apr 92 11:42:45 GMT
Reply-To: snorthc@relay.nswc.navy.mil (Stephen Northcutt)
Distribution: na
Organization: Naval Surface Warfare Center

>I have some friends who are purchasing a new home.  They would
>like a stained glass window done for their bathroom.  it would be
>a half circle piece about 1.5 foot in diameter.

I used to work at a stained glass shop, primarily doing windows and
*** repair ***.  I am not an expert whatsoever, but here are
a few notions for you.  I also hand crafted most of the windows in
my workshop.

>To start with if I do it I will take an advanced class so I have
>someone to get advice from and teach me the things I hopefully
>will need to know so it will fit when I am done.

Sounds reasonable   :-)

>My questions are as follows:

	1. any things to be concerned with in a bathroom.
		a) high humidity?

Yes, this will be a potential huge problem in terms of corrosion and
condensation.

	4. any special reinforcement.

At 1.5' it is a judgement call, I think I would choose a design
that allowed a + shaped steel reinforcement so that the humidity
effects on the wooden frame would not be too damaging to the
glass.  I would have the wood frame crafted from a boat building
shop if possible, and recommend sasafrass if you can get it since
it is stable and rot resistant.

	5. any special insulation factors (chicago-land area)
		a) clear glass on both sides

Yes you probably want to sandwich this window on both sides to
protect it as well as insulate.  You will need to make at least the
inside plate removable for cleaning in case it does condense and
mildew.  I prefer leaded bullet proof glass for the outside, but
be warned the stuff is HEAVY.  I have had nothing but trouble with
polycarbonate and plexiglass BTW.

	6. is lead or copper foil better for window.

I don't think it is reasonable to consider copper foil at 1.5'
even if it was free hanging so lead channel.  If you don't reinforce
with steel you will need to look into strong thick lead alloys.
	
>Thanks in advance.
>			Cheryl Frech

Best of luck, sounds like you can have a lot of fun on this.  Make
sure your friends are prepared to spend fairly large $$$ on the
project.
			
===================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: pmfisher@milton.u.washington.edu (Patrick Fisher)
Subject: Re: Cat's Meow: problem in formatting
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 04:50:21 GMT

	This is a clearer follow-up to a question I had:
	I'm looking for a good font for the ImageWriter II for 
printing Cat's Meow.  The biggest font I can find that will
print each page on one page is Helvetica 9 point.  Helvetica
doesn't look so great at any size because certain letter combinations
cause the letters to merge together and create a new letter to 
the English Language.
	Thanks,
	Pat "soon-to-be homebrewer" Fisher
From: slezakl@nyssa.CS.ORST.EDU (Lee J. Slezak)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Carbonation Problem
Date: 9 Apr 92 23:41:41 GMT
Organization: CS Dept. Oregon State University, Corvallis, Oregon.

Hi All-

I have a small problem that hopefully one of you 
people have an answer for...  I brewed the following
recipe-

3    #   Amber Syrup
7    #   Dark Syrup
1/2  #   Chocolate Malt
1/4  #   Crystal
1/2  #   Black Patent
2    oz  Willamette Hops (1 1/2 oz Boiling & 1/2 oz Finishing) 
1 Package Edme Dry Yeast

I cracked and steeped the grains in the usual manner, removing them
before the boil, and then adding the syrups.  Brought wort back to a
boil and added boiling hops.  Boiled for 45 min and added finishing
hops for another 1 minute.

Okay now the problem, the brew fermented like crazy for the first
couple of days and then suddenly stopped.  I used the blow method for
a week and then replaced it with a fermentation lock for another week.
I bottled after 2 weeks in the primary, waited another week and then 
tested one.  It was flat, so I waited another 2 weeks, and still flat.
Its been about 1 month since bottling and its still flat...  What
happened?  Did the alcohol kill the yeast?  I dont think the brew
is that strong...  What do you people think?  Thanks and I will
wait to hear from you all...


Happy Brewing-

Lee J. Slezak
slezakl@nyssa.cs.orst.edu
From: wardrb@cs.utexas.edu (Richard Byron Ward)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Austin, TX Belgian??
Date: 13 Apr 1992 09:30:58 -0500
Organization: CS Dept, University of Texas at Austin
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu

In article <bmhz2e.3hc@wang.com> jdr@wang.com (Joe Rolfe) writes:
|Any one in the Austin,TX area know of a brewery that is brewing Belgian
|white ales?? Any info would be great 
|
|Thanx
|Joe

I posted something about this brewery when they first announced that they
were moving to Austin.  They anticipated opening in time for Christmas,
but they have obviously missed the mark.  I'm not sure what originally 
held them up, but I heard that they got flooded pretty badly a while back.

Rick
From: jsco@buzzardroost.az.stratus.com (Jeff Scott)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Yeastie Beasties!
Date: 7 Apr 92 14:23:50 GMT

Sorry for the garbage that got into that last message, I am on a next and  
got one of my parameters skwewey! heres what that post was supposed to  
say:

Hello again!

More questions from the novice section. I have produced my third batch,  
the first (Mountmellick Export Ale) is in the bottle and ready to drink  
(and damn good too!) the second (Ironmaster American Light (for my partner  
in this endeavor)is in the secondary fermenter and the third (Coopers  
Austrailian Lager)is in the primary. They have all performed differently  
in the Primary fermenter, the first had mass quantities of foam and blow  
off, the second had very little and the third has virtually none. Are the  
yeasts that come with the kits this diverse or is it just that the ale  
yeast did all of it's work on top and the others stay submerged. The only  
other thing that I did differently is that in the first batch I just  
pitched the dry yeast into the 80 degree wort and the second two I started  
the yeast in som 80 degree water and then added that. does re-hydrated  
yeast not make as much foam as does just pitching dry yeast??

After I posted that, I went home last night and noticed that the third  
batch has not even begun to ferment, it smells CO2'ish, but there are no  
bubbles coming out of my blow off tube. Does anyone know should I re-pitch  
new yeast?? or Re-boil and re-pitch, of am I just beter off to let it sit  
for a while?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Support Coordinator              jsco@az.stratus.com (NeXT Mail)
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From: binkley@boulder.Colorado.EDU (Jon Binkley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Recipes for Belgian witbier?
Date: 9 Apr 92 18:57:54 GMT
Article-I.D.: beagle.binkley.702845874
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder

pepke@gw.scri.fsu.edu (Eric Pepke) writes:

>In article <122410005@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM> benji@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Jeff 
>Benjamin) writes:
>> And a question for you all-grain brewers out there:  how might I have to
>> change my mashing procedure to convert unmalted wheat?  Will my
>> extraction be less than with malted wheat?

>Not neccessarily.  Enzymes are catalysts; they'll do the job if you let 
>them go long enough.  Just make sure you don't stop until it passes the 
>iodine test.

>You will have to crush the wheat thoroughly, which is quite a bit harder 
>with unmalted wheat.  One thing you might consider is using wheat flour 
>instead of granular crushed wheat.  I've done it, and it seems to work 
>fine, although I was only trying to raise the alcohol content, not really 
>get much of a wheat flavor.  Dave Line said that wheat flour is a common 
>adjunct in English beers.  Mix the flour in dry before doughing in the 
>water.  

Flaked wheat works very well.  This is wheat which has undergone
the same treatment as rolled oats (whatever that is) and looks
and smells a lot like oatmeal.  When I used it I cooked it for
about 15 minutes and tossed it right in the mash.  Had no conversion
problems;  it made up about 40% of the grist weight.

I found it in one of Boulder's many "natural" food stores;  I don't
know how available it would be in a less granola-based community.

Jon Binkley
From: justcoz@triton.unm.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: The magic of Mead!
Date: 13 Apr 92 23:53:51 GMT
Article-I.D.: lynx.qgxj5ya
Organization: University of New Mexico, Albuquerque

In article <10302@gollum.twg.com> david@twg.com (David S. Herron) writes:
>In article <1992Apr6.210733.23448@csrd.uiuc.edu> bliss@sp64.csrd.uiuc.edu (Brian Bliss) writes:
>>|> 	No, but I figured a closed primary (with fruit) ferment in a 
>>|> 	plastic pail with lid would be safer.
>>
>>actually, I used a 6 gal. carboy for the primary. I squeezed all the
>>stuff out of the oranges, ground up a few of the peelings
>
>Yes a closed lid on the primary fermenter is always a good idea.
>
>>Then I fished out the whole peelings, squeezed again (ouch! - they were hot),
>>and discarded (actually, I scraped out the rest of the pulp and ate it).
>>The pulp in the fermenter didn't clog the blowoff.  Oh - I de-seeded the
>>oranges beforehand.
>>
>>bb
>
>It really makes a *LOT* more sense to do fermentations with fruit
>in a bucket (with closable lid) so that you can get it in and out easily.
>
>	David
>
I have to agree with David on this - a big ol' bucket makes a heck of a primary
if you are throwing in fruit and pulp, etc.  Additionally, by throwing in the 
bulk of the fruit, you save yourself a lot of unnecessary work (separating, 
juicing, whatever) And you can use the fermented pulp of the fruit to make all
sorts of other wonderfull things from ice cream toppings to home-made ice cream
to pies pastries and so forth.  No sense in wasting the flavoring agents.  Last,
while it is a good idea to leave the rind out of the must (except for a few
ounces of zested peels, in a 5 gallon batch that is), it is not necessary to 
"de-seed" the fruit before putting it in the primary.  In fact, a goo amount
of the flavor will come from the seeds, not to mention a bit of tannin and a lotof vitamins.

On the whole, except for fruits with heavy rinds (oranges, lemons, cantalopes,
watermelons, etc.), I recommend throwing as much of the fruit as possible into
the must.  

Next time, I'll explain why I use cold extraction instead of the method normallyused when making beers.   


********************************************************************************
                 /|\
              __  |  __                Just Coz, only Coz, merely Coz.
              |\  |  /|                  Nothing more, nothing less.
                \ | /                   What you see is what you get.
           /     \|/     \ 
           ---------------         ***************************************
           \     /|\     /                          Coz
                / | \                      137 Yale Boulevard S.E.
              |/_ | _\|                      ABQ, NM 87106-4011
                  |                    justcoz@triton.unm.edu INTERNET
                 \|/
********************************************************************************
From: jdr@wang.com (Joe Rolfe)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Austin TX Belgian Replies
Date: 14 Apr 92 19:22:14 GMT
Article-I.D.: wang.bmppt4.dza
Organization: Wang Labs, Lowell MA, USA


	Yep, the Celis brewery is currently brewing with the first batches
	to be available towards the end of May.  They are going to brew 
	"Celis White, a top-fermented wheat beer; Celis Pale Bock, an amber-
	colored, cold-filtered beer; and Celis Golden, a pale beer."
	Pierre Celis moved to Austin from Hoegaarden, Belgium.

Belgian beer in Austin?  I wouldn't believe it if I didn't know
better.  Celis Brewery has been built and the first batch is 
fermenting as I type. This little Belgian dude, Pierre Celis,
set up show in Austin after his 25-year-old brewery in Hoegaarden
Belgium was swallowed up by a bigger Belgian brew-fish.

They will make three beers:

1) Celis White - a "white" wheat beer, sweet-sour flavor, wheat from
   Luckenbach.

2) Amber-colored pale bock
3) Golden lager

They're a little behind schedule. They should bottle the first batch
this month. Tours will start soon after.  Initially, the beer will be
available in Austin only.  Then Texas-wide. Then So. West-wide or 
something like that.  It has received a lot of interest from bar owners
around the country so maybe the spread of the beer will be faster than
predicted.

What I want to know is why did the little guy pick Austin?  Texas
has a state anthem that sounds suspiciously like the Bud jinggle.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: gal2@ellis.uchicago.edu (Jacob Galley)
Subject: Re: Yeast Energizer vs. Yeast Nutrient
Reply-To: gal2@midway.uchicago.edu
Organization: University of Chicago Computing Organizations
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1992 22:29:12 GMT

Micah Millspaw (on the Homebrew Digest) once recommended a mead (?)
nutrient either called or made by a company called Difco. Does anyone
have any details about this?

-- 
Reinheitsgebot <-- "Keep your laws off my beer!" <-- gal2@midway.uchicago.edu
From: hartp@sprak.West.Sun.COM ()
Subject: need bottle capper recomendation
Reply-To: hartp@sprak.West.Sun.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 21:20:31 GMT

I'm in the market for a new capper, and would like some opinions.

I use many diffrent size bottles when I rack, so I would like one that
adjusts quickly. I Like the ones that look like a drill press, but given
good arguments could be swayed. Racking is done on the floor of the
brewery(kitchen) if it makes a difference.

Cost is some what of an issue, but if 10~20 dollars more means big quality/
performance, let me know.


Thanks
Peter Hart
Enjoying batch #3 and no longer worried

7lbs of Amber unhopped extract (5gal batch)
1lb Crystal Malt
1.5 oz (Fresh)willamette boil (1hr)
5 oz (fresh)willamette finish (2-3min)
1 pkt M & F ale Yest
1 TBS Ginger spice begining of boil

OG 1.042 @ 78f    FG 1.018 @ 74f
From: gummitch@techbook.com (Jeff Frane)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Wisconsin Brewers Please Read!
Summary: Need some help soon!
Keywords: Milwaukee Madison
Date: 14 Apr 92 18:06:51 GMT
Article-I.D.: techbook.1992Apr14.180651.3471
Organization: TECHbooks of Beaverton Oregon - Public Access Unix

I need some help quickly from homebrewers in either the Madison or
Milwaukee areas.  If anyone in Madison knows Steve Klafka, please send
me his new address and phone number.  All I have for him is the Jenifer
St. address and I know he has moved.  We are supposedly sharing a hotel
room in Milwaukee for the AHA conference and I've lost touch with him.
Or tell him to send me a letter instantly!

Also, if anyone in Milwaukee is able to host me so I don't have to pay
for the hotel -- please get in touch!

--Jeff Frane
  Portland OR


-- 
gummitch@techbook.COM  Public Access UNIX at (503) 644-8135 (1200/2400) 
"Where the press is free and every man able to read, all is safe."
                                    --Thomas Jefferson