HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: dean@agora.rain.com (Dean Woodward)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw,rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
Subject: OXS light on '81 Jetta needs to be reset...
Date: 11 Apr 92 03:19:01 GMT
Article-I.D.: agora.1992Apr11.031901.15568
Organization: Open Communications Forum

A friend of mine owns a 1981 VW Jetta, and last week rolled over to 120,000
miles.  The OXS (oxygen sensor) light came on (every 30,000 miles) as expected.
I was wondering if anyone out there knows how to reset the silly thing without
taking it to the dealership...  Would much appreciate it, Thanks!

Mail can be sent to:
dean@agora.rain.com
root@fringe.rain.com
lunatic@fringe.rain.com

(Pick *one* please...)

Thanks again!
-- 
Dean Woodward            | `I can't complain, but sometimes I still do,
dean@agora.rain.com      |   Life's been good to me so far...'
Public access user       |                                    -Joe Walsh
From: greis@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Gayla Ann Greis)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Analysis of SLUDGE problem in oil
Date: 10 Apr 92 18:50:25 GMT
Article-I.D.: uwm.1992Apr10.185025.8082
Distribution: na
Organization: Computing Services Division, University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee

In article <1992Apr9.224418.10663@cs.dal.ca> gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca (Andy) writes:
>47% suggested --> Coolant Mixing with oil - Busted Head Gasket
>26%           --> Water Mixing with oil - Condensation (short trips)
>17% 	      --> Coolant Mixing with oil - Cracked block
>4%  	      --> Whipping of oil - Too much oil in crankcase
		^^^^^^ 
>4%  	      --> Collant/Water mixing with oil - Unspecified reason

Uh, Aircooleds get this too (white foamy cr*p under the oil cap) and
there is no coolant other than the oil.... I guess if you want to say
thats coolant mixing with oil, then go ahead...) But, (look esp on an
1835), if you don't have a puke tank, and you turn hirevs w/ your
motor (as most 4 cyl acs do) then chances is this is oil froth, caused
by the wax in your oil being "beat out"...
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: dan@grok85.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM (Daniel Adams)
Subject: Re: Tire Advice Sought
Reply-To: dan@Grok85.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM
Organization: Your Organization Here
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 92 15:43:51 GMT

In article <1992Apr8.151305.2161@cid.aes.doe.CA>, afsidbb@cidsv07.Berkeley.EDU (Douglas Bender) writes:
|> I am looking for  recommendations for a new set of tires. I have a 1991 Passat GL and the
|> Uniroyal  summer tires that came with the car have developed flat-spots.  I have driven about
|> 30000km (20000 miles) on these tires (I use snow tires in the winter). 
|> 
|> I spoke to a tire dealer today and he suggested three models
|>  -  Michelin XGT-V
|>  -  Michelin XMV
|>  -  Pirelli P600
|>   -  or I could get the same Uniroyal  Rallye Gt's
|> 

I had MXV on my Integra, they were durable but were noisy and didn't
"perform" well.  I replaced those with Dunlop D60, they were quitier
but no notable "performance" difference.

On my BMW I have P6s with 43K miles (probably another 8-15k).  These
are V rated tires so I am mixed between V rated P6 and H rated
P600 (same price, roughly).

|>  I am not impressed with the durability of the Uniroyals. I find it rather poor that they need
|> replacing so soon.  The tire-guy did not recommend Yokohama's, saying that these other models
|> were far superior. 
|> 
|>  The tire size is 195/60 R14 and they are "V" rated.
|> 

The biggest difference is that most (maybe all) V rated tires will have
reinforced sidewalls.  Thus the tire would have less lateral "flex" in
cornering.  Also, alot of V rated "models" will use softer compound rubber,
therefore gripping better but wearing faster.

|>   I  don't need a four season tire since I use snow tires in the winter. Any help will be  appreciated, as
|> I am not too familiar with all the  brands & models.
|> 
|>   Will there be a noticeable difference if I switch to "H" rated tires ???
|> 
But IMHO I think going to a "H" rated tire you will not be able to detect
much of a difference (maybe if you autocross your Passat :-)

Daniel
From: gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca (Andy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Outcome of stuff(sludge) in oil
Date: 10 Apr 92 19:16:24 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Math, Stats & CS, Dalhousie University, Halifax, NS, Canada

Well, I got all that sludge cleaned out. I concluded that it was the
work of: CONDENSATION!  Thank God, its a cheap solution. I really got
scared when most people suggested a blown gasket. Thanks to all who helped
me out!

Reasons:
1) The dip stick was normal
2) When the valve cover was taken off, that stuff was only on the cover,
and not deeply inside.
3) My trips last app 10-15 min.
4) I mixed oil and water in one beaker, coolant and oil in another. The 
sludge resembled oil and water. You can tell beacuse of little bubbles and
it was denser. The coolant mix was greenish and had no bubbles at all (mixed
well) and it was more fluid like.
5) Dealer said it was very common around here.

What I did:
1) Totally cleaned the cover, cap and surface of engine (inside)
2) Changed the oil and filter
3) went for a highway drive
4) looked at cap again, no sludge

What I will be doing:
1) Regulary checking the cap and coolant level
2) Change oil and filter more often, (I currently do it twice a year)

ANdy
-- 
---....-------------****----*******-) GTI FUN-atic                      o  
--. \/ .-----GTI---******--*********)         Don't forget to bike:     ,-\
--.\/\/.-----------******--*********)  (and sail and windsurf and ski)  0\-0
---....-------------****----*******-) gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca,goaway@ac.dal.ca
From: jmm2948@zeus.tamu.edu (Jeffrey M. Mayzurk)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Screeching in the rain (was: Where VW's Come From)
Date: 9 Apr 92 21:25:00 GMT
Organization: Texas A&M University, Academic Computing Services
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <1992Apr09.113851.12203@wes.on.ca>, tomh@wes.on.ca (Tom Haapanen) writes...
>kerry@is-next.umd.edu (Kerry Ogata) writes:

>> 1.  When it rains, the battery light comes on and the (fan?) belt screeches.
>> I think this is from water getting up into the car.  It can be quite
>> annoying, especially when it's raining hard.
> 
>This is not an assembly problem, but a design fault.  Something was changed
>in the A2 Golf/Jetta engine compartment design around 1990, and the newer
>cars get a lot of water splashing up into the engine compartment in heavy rain.
>This causes the alternator belt to slip, and the warning light to come on 
>momentarily.  The car also gives a little jerk when the belt grabs once again.

No significant changes were made in the engine compartment to cause this 
problem -- nearly all water-cooled VW's have done this as long as I can
remember, including my Scirocco.  When you drive through a puddle with 
the right-side tire, water splashes up onto the pulleys and belts, causing
them to slip momentarily.  It's not really a big deal, and it doesn't cause
any permanent damage, but it can be annoying during heavy rains.  Most newer
cars have fairings underneath the engine compartment (for the sake of
aerodynamics), but for some reason VW's engineers have chosen to avoid 
this.  

By all means, have the splash guard installed.  It will correct the belt
slippage, but it won't keep your engine compartment any cleaner.

--
Jeffrey M. Mayzurk

jmm2948@zeus.tamu.edu
From: gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca (Andy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Analysis of SLUDGE problem in oil
Date: 9 Apr 92 22:44:18 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Math, Stats & CS, Dalhousie University, Halifax, NS, Canada

WOW, I got so many answers to the sludge question (and they are still
pouring in) that I decided to make a simple statistical analysis of the 
suggestions. Why? Don't know, I'm sure someone will be interested on how
their opinion rates. THANKS TO ALL WHO ANSWERED!!!! The car will be going in
to the shop on monday and I'll let you all know what it really was.

For Now:

47% suggested --> Coolant Mixing with oil - Busted Head Gasket
26%           --> Water Mixing with oil - Condensation (short trips)
17% 	      --> Coolant Mixing with oil - Cracked block
4%  	      --> Whipping of oil - Too much oil in crankcase
4%  	      --> Collant/Water mixing with oil - Unspecified reason

ANdy
-- 
---....-------------****----*******-) GTI FUN-atic                      o  
--. \/ .-----GTI---******--*********)         Don't forget to bike:     ,-\
--.\/\/.-----------******--*********)  (and sail and windsurf and ski)  0\-0
---....-------------****----*******-) gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca,goaway@ac.dal.ca
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: timk@wynnds.xenitec.on.ca (Tim Kuehn)
Subject: Re: '85 Golf Diesel Engine: Oil warning light question
Organization: TDK Consulting Services
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1992 17:09:50 GMT

Thanks to those who wrote in with suggestions. The problem wasn't 
in the oil system at all, there's a wire going to the backside of 
the alternator that had popped out somehow. Putting it back in and
everything works fine now. ;-)

Thanks once more for all your help!

+-----------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Tim Kuehn | TDK Consulting |(519)-888-0766| timk@wynnds.xenitec.on.ca |
| <><       | Services       |	       	    |  (This space for rent)    |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------+
From: ap20@snoopy.umd.edu (Michael)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Looking for VW CarClub Members
Date: 16 Apr 92 12:05:33 GMT
Distribution: dc
Organization: University of Maryland, College Park

I'd like to join a local VW Car Club. If you're a member, 
please send me a phone number or a meeting time/location.

Thanks
MikeC
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: lawrence@leerdam.Berkeley.EDU (lawrence)
Subject: Re: Tell us about your air-cooled VW!!!
Organization: University of California, at Berkeley
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1992 23:36:50 GMT

My favorite VW is the Porsche 914, I've got a '76 2.0 that I drive up-and-down  
the west coast at a constant high speed (won't mention values, as they could  
incriminate me to a few CHP's).  It has 77,000 miles on an original engine that  
still has 150 psi compression in each cylinder.  I thought about getting an  
Acura, but it wouldn't be any fun if you couldn't take the top off.
lawrence
From: jhamill@BBN.COM (John Hamill)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Wax
Date: 9 Apr 92 14:07:00 GMT
Reply-To: jhamill@BBN.COM (John Hamill)
Organization: Bolt Beranek and Newman Inc., Cambridge MA
NNTP-Posting-Host: bbn.com


>In article <92096.180708RXM108@psuvm.psu.edu> Roderick Murchison <RXM108@psuvm.psu.edu> writes:
>>It's wash and wax season as all of you are quite aware.....
>>Well, I unfortunately just bought Nu Finish to try out on the advice of
>>a friend and I was not impressed.  It left a rather dull finish and a
>>dry gritty feel all over the car.  Does anybody know of a good wax?  I

	I have been using NU Finish for about a year on my Corrado and
I get great results. The car shines well, and it is very easy to clean 
now. I didn't get a gritty feel at all, but instead a very smooth silky 
feel to the paint. It is also very easy to apply. I like it.

jh
From: jmess@pdx.csd.mot.com (John Messman)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Clutch problem!
Keywords: clutch rod (long)
Date: 16 Apr 92 20:44:30 GMT
Article-I.D.: pdxvme.1136
Organization: Motorola CSD, Beaverton, OR

Another thing to check that may not have been mentioned yet, is the end of the 
clutch push rod that passes through the transaxle input shaft and presses the 
throwout bearing.  Over a period of miles, the end of push rod can wear so 
that when you put in a new clutch in, you can't fully disengage it. As a 
general rule when changing the clutch after 100K or so miles on a Rabbit or
Sirocco, you should think about changing the push rod, the push rod seal on 
the shaft, the crank shaft seal, and of course the throwout bearing, and 
clutch. Resurfacing the flywheel should also be done. 

It is also a good time to repack your CVC joints, replace any CVC boots or
steeing rack boots that are old or torn. Replacing the transaxle oil can
be done pretty easily. Removing the hubs and replacing your front wheels 
bearing would also be someting to consider with high mileage cars. All these 
things are pretty easy to do with the transaxle out. Front wheel bearings 
require a press to install though on the hubs, but can usually be handled by 
any automotive machine shop for a nominal charge. Motor mounts, especially
the passenger side mount should be considered for replacement on high
mileage cars. Read next months European Auto magazine, they have started
a series on engine rebuilding that covers some of things to do to your car 
when you have the motor out.

In high performance applications you may even want to replace the flywheel 
with a new one. Some racing bunnies around here have actually had their fly 
wheels shatter from 6-7K RPMs, and an occasional oops 8K RPMs, that we run 
them at. Some speculation has been made about some of these fly wheel failures 
being due to them being accidently lighten :-).

While some of this may seem like overkill, the main thing is that you don't
want to take the thing back apart to replace a $25 clutch push rod or
an $8 dollar seal at a later date. You should be able to look forward to
another 100K without any trouble from the freshen up components.
-- 
John Messman                          Motorola Inc., Commercial Systems Division
jmess@pdx.csd.mot.com                 . . . . tektronix!nosun!cvedc!mcspdx!jmess
Voice: (503) 643 6247                 . . . . uunet!apple!motcsd!mcspdx!jmess
From: thk@sgi.com (Tom Kong)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: HELP! Trying to change timing belt on Golf
Date: 15 Apr 92 17:02:11 GMT
Organization: Silicon Graphics Inc., Mountain View, CA

In article <1992Apr15.133503.9512@cbnewsl.cb.att.com> fm@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (fadi.maamari) writes:
>I tried to replace the timing belt on my 87 Golf (75000 miles).
>I managed to unscrew the bolts on the coolant pump pulley, as well
>as the four side  bolts on the vibration damper. But I could not remove
>the center bolt on the damper! It is very tight, and the whole damper
>rotates when I try to untighten it with my ratchet. How should
>I go about it? Do I need a special tool? Should I give up and bring
>it to a dealer?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Fadi
>
>fm@howard.att.com


Both the crank pulley and the water-pump pulley can be incredibly
hard to remove.  You don't need to remove the centre bolt on
the crank pulley (I tried all sort of ways and couldn't get it to move).
The crank pulley has a centre hole that barely clears the bolt.

Once you've removed all the hex bolts, use a gear-puller to pull the
pulley's out.  Be extremely gentle with the gear-puller and use lots
of WD40.  I mangled the water pump pulley by not being too careful.


/tom
From: pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Tell us about your air-cooled VW!!!
Date: 6 Apr 92 21:12:54 GMT
Article-I.D.: ulkyvx.1992Apr6.171254.1
Organization: University of Louisville

I sat here noticing that all the talk recently has been about the waterpumpers. 
That fine, but it's the classic aircooled motor that's in my blood.

I bought my '77 bus because it was cheap.  $450, but the driver's side window
and vent glass had been shot out.  I recently bought a run-down '66 bus to
restore so that I can drive a more classic auto.  I helped my fiance buy her
'67 bug.

I like the old style busses because they look cool from the front. They are not
sleek or fast, and are prone to fits.  It takes a special kind of driver to
appreciate a car like that.

My favorite one of all would be a '67 double cab pickup, because they are so
rare.  My next favorite would be a '67 21-window bus.  I prefer '67 because it
has the 12V electricals, but retains the old bus styling.


So what I'm getting at is:  What is your favorite air-cooled VW??  Tell us your
story; it's encouraging to hear from other bug/bus owners! 

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
|pH Fred == pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu    |   Real Programmers use C      |
|        == ..!psuvax1!ulkyvx.bitnet!pgheit01 |   because it's the easiest    |
|           University of Louisville          |   language to spell.          |
|                Louisville, KY               |                               |
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: k2@meaddata.com (Kevin Kerr)
Subject: Heater Core Replacement
Keywords: Heater Core
Followup-To: Heater Core		
Organization: Mead Data Central, Dayton OH
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1992 20:18:30 GMT
Distribution: na

Well folks I said I would get back to the group about the heater core
in my vintage 84 Jetta GLI.
In my previous posting I said that the dealer wasn't sure about my car
because of its age. Apparently when VW changed the body style in 85,
they also changed the heater core box. So according to my dealer and
VWUS they are only replacing the heater cores on 85 and newer cars.
The weak odor of sweet antifreeze I was smelling was left over from
the water pump being replaced. According to the service mgr, if
the core is bad the smell is very acrid and can cause a burning
feeling in your nose. Plus the windows will become fogged up big time.
This is how VWUS has told the dealers to determine if replacement is
needed. The dealer said it is almost automatic to replace newer cars
heaters. Good luck to all in your heater core saga.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: greis@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Gayla Ann Greis)
Subject: Re: Tell us about your air-cooled VW!!!
Organization: Computing Services Division, University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 02:18:58 GMT

In article <1992Apr6.171254.1@ulkyvx.louisville.edu> pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu writes:
>My favorite one of all would be a '67 double cab pickup, because they are so
>rare.  My next favorite would be a '67 21-window bus.  I prefer '67 because it
>has the 12V electricals, but retains the old bus styling.

I wouldn't mind one of those. My friend has a 67 21 window though. Great
shape too! I just pulled it out of my barn this weekend.

>So whatI'm getting at is:  What is your favorite air-cooled VW??  Tell us your
>story; it's encouraging to hear from other bug/bus owners! 

My favorite would have to be a swimmer.... :-) But realistically, I *LOVE*
my Thing! And my '66 1300 bug is a creme too! I currently have *9* aircooleds,
and love these the best... I like the headlight covers on the 66 better,
and parts are a little easier to find, although difficult enough to make
it fun! They're easy enough to change to 12V, and as far as all the shows
go, the 6->12 conversion is considered a safety feature, and so you're not
supposed to dock for it... :-)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: ac579@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (G.C.J. Timm)
Subject: Re: Volvo diesel in a VW?
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio, (USA)
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 92 19:42:08 GMT


Peter,
Installing a 6 cyl engine in a VW bus is possible.

I've seen 455 Olds Toronado engines installed in a VW bus.

It is however entirely impractical to do so.
You would at best have to transplant the entire Volvo
Engine and rear end.  Those parts aren't cheep.

Jeff
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: tomh@wes.on.ca (Tom Haapanen)
Subject: Re: Screeching in the rain (was: Where VW's Come From)
Organization: Waterloo Engineering Software
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1992 09:55:25 GMT

jmm2948@zeus.tamu.edu (Jeffrey M. Mayzurk) writes:
> No significant changes were made in the engine compartment to cause this 
> problem -- nearly all water-cooled VW's have done this as long as I can
> remember, including my Scirocco.

I can almost believe this, except that I have extensive experience with '86
and '87 GTIs, an '87 European Golf and an '89 Jetta -- and none had the
slipping-belt-in-heavy-rain problem.  :)  But then again, Mark Sirota emailed
me saying that his '87 GTI 16V *does* have it ... so I really don't know
any more.

> By all means, have the splash guard installed.  It will correct the belt
> slippage, but it won't keep your engine compartment any cleaner.

Actually, it does.  Before getting the guard, the right-hand side of the
underside of the hood was just feeeelthy :), but now it's just like our
'86, with a normal amount of dirt.  I think the belt sprays the water further
up onto the hood unless you have the guard...

[ \tom haapanen    "i don't even know what street canada is on" -- al capone ]
[ tomh@wes.on.ca                   "trust the programmer" -- ansi c standard ]
[ waterloo engineering software      "to thine own self be true" -- polonius ]
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: geer@crl.dec.com (Dan Geer)
Subject: Re: Tell us about your air-cooled VW!!!
Organization: DEC Cambridge Research Lab
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 20:33:04 GMT


anything bus-ish, but, for nostalgia, the '63 truck body
bus we had that had a ``texas kit'' camper installed in
it.  loved it.  my dad gave up on it when it broke the 
fuel pump push rod (as i recall).  as he had welded a
truly humongous trailer towing wishbone to the bottom
of the thing, pulling the engine was out of the question.

i was away at the time.  not sure what i would have done,
but i'd like to think mayhem was possible...

--dan  (currently driving a 125K '78 bus)

p.s.  we had a homemade rack on the roof that was *real* 
strong, and a ladder up the side at the right rear.  used
to go to my brother's little league games, park the bus
behind the (7 foot) grandstands, pull out the lawn chairs,
and climb up there.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: afoldej@lims02.lerc.nasa.gov (JOHN OLDENBURG)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Are all Americans Stupid???
Date: 15 Apr 92 12:49:00 GMT
Article-I.D.: lims02.15APR199207495352
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <1992Apr14.140550.20408@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk>, kerrat@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk (Adrian T Kerr) writes...
>Well where do I start?
> 
>Perhaps the title is a bit abusive but from the articles I have read here and elsewhere I have not seen anything to suggest the average American has an IQ higher than your average chimp!
>Where are the statistics that say 55mph is the safest maximum speed a four wheeled vehicle can travel at? In Britain the maximum allowable speed on motorways is 70mph and this is woefully slow! In Germany there is a recommended speed limit of 80mph but i
> 
 [stuff deleted]> 

You must understand how the 55mph national limited started and why it 
continues.

The national 55mph limit was started after the first crude oil shortage in 
the late 1970s as  a way to reduce the use of imported crude oil.

It lives on because various special interest groups which have a lot more 
political power then the average person wants to see the limits continue.  
These groups are made up of insurance companies, safety groups, 
enviromentalists, etc.

The main argument for keeping the limits is that increasing the speed limit 
will result in higher highway fatality rates.  The data from states which 
have increased from 55 to 65mph does not provide a clear proof of this 
assumption.

IMHO it is clear that alcohol is a factor in 50% of traffic fatalities in 
this country and if we continue to accept drunk driving we will not reduce 
our fatality rate.

Jack