HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: de@moscom.com (David Esan)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Sale on Quick-Grip clamps
Date: 6 Jan 93 18:57:54 GMT
Organization: Moscom Corporation, Pittsford NY

In article <berry-050193092919@si.chem.upenn.edu> berry@a.chem.upenn.edu (Don Berry) writes:
>    For comparison, Woodworker's Supply sells the 36in
>clamp for $25, and the mini-clamps for $14 each.
>
>Size   price    item #
>
>6in   $10.99   04489-1WJA
>12     13.99   04490-0WJA
>18     14.99   04491-1WJA
>24     16.99   04492-2WJA
>36     18.99   04493-1WJA
>6in mini-bar clamp (set of 2)  $14.69  (item #01034-6WJA)

Pittsord Lumber in Pittsford, NY has EZ Hold Clamps (by Jorgensen)

6in   $11.95   
12     12.90  
18     13.85 
24     15.85
30     17.10
36     18.55

Bar Clamps (by Jorgensen) began at $6.25 for the 6", and rise to 10.15 for the 
36".

I don't think Harbor Freight is such a deal.

(I don't have to pay S&H since they are 1 mile from work.  But they charge
a flat fee of $4.)  Course I have to pay 8.5% to Uncle Mario. (Actually,
that 4% to Uncle Mario, and 4.5% to King King, the County King.)

-- 
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 -->     David Esan      de@moscom.com  
 
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: chris@eso.mc.xerox.com (Chris Heiny 73186 - SETA)
Subject: Stockholder wheel question
Reply-To: chris@eso.mc.xerox.com
Organization: Xerox Corporation, Webster NY
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 17:05:56 GMT

I've been thinking it would be nice to have a set of stock holding wheels for my
Delta contractor's saw.  There are a number of different makes out there, and
I'm somewhat bewildered as to all the different claims.  Here's my requirements:
	1) they have to fit on a Unifence
	2) I'd like to be able to use them on other tools, too
	3) anti-kickback feature would be very nice

Here's the questions:
	Do you use stock holding wheels?
	What brand/make/flavor are they?
	Do they meet the above requirements?
	Do you like them?
	Where did you get them?

						Thanks,
							Chris



Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: tomj@monster.apd.saic.com (Tom Johnson)
Subject: Table saw surface protection
Organization: SAIC, Reston, VA
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 20:36:49 GMT

My table saw manual suggests using talc rubbed into the table top
to prevent rust.  They say it "fills the pores", and provides some
lubrication, without the risk of contaminating your wood like
oils can.

Any comments?  Has anyone else used talc?  How does it compare??
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Resawing with Delta 16 inch bandsaw
From: michael@sunbeam.ksc.nasa.gov (Michael D. Myjak x7-3286)
Date: 8 Jan 93 14:26:50
Organization: NASA, Kennedy Space Center, FL.
In-reply-to: steveo@custard.think.com's message of 6 Jan 93 13:44:26Lines: 23


 stephen anthony writes:

   Speaking of memories like packrats (mine :-(), in last week's This Old
   House, (Where Steve went out to the NYW to help Norm make the doddads for
   the house) the blade on the bandsaw must have been about 3" wide! It was
   just a background shot, but I'd never seen Norm use a blade that size (nor
   did he on TOH). What would such a blade be good for? Resawing?

He must have used when he was re-sawing the MDO. The material
remaining after the cut was now thin enough that he could make the
curve at the top of the column.  Remember, he was using the MDO so it
could be painted to look like stone.


--
- Michael D. Myjak			
  Senior Technical Specialist, Systems Analyst
  McDonnell Douglas Space Systems Company
  Kennedy Space Center, Fl., 32815
  MYJAK@TITAN.KSC.NASA.GOV

Gravity. It's not just a good idea. Its the LAW!
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: simnet@plato.ds.boeing.com (Mark R Poulson)
Subject: How to cut a half heart shape?
Keywords: shaping  heart
Organization: Boeing Defense & Space Group
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 23:38:10 GMT

I have a dresser that has a groove in the front where your fingers can
grab to pull open the drawer. In cross section it looks like half a heart
shape (see crude drawing):

		   _______
		  |       |
		  |       |
		  | __    |  Right side view of
		  |/  \   |  drawer front
		       |  |
		       |  |
                      /   |
                     /    |
                    /     |
                   /      |
                  |       |
		  |       |

OK, so how can I make a heart shape like this with a router or table saw.
The only way I've come up with so far is to use a half inch straight bit and
then a half inch core box (the rounded tip bit) with the stock tilted 60
degrees in a router table. Is there a way to tilt a router about 60 degrees
in a router table or do you have to build a jig to tilt the stock? I've never
seen router bits that cut a heart shape or even a sphere. Anyone have a
better idea?

Thanks!

		Mark on
		simnet@plato.ds.boeing.com

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: badboy@netcom.com (Jay Keller)
Subject: Re: WARNING
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1993 01:09:36 GMT

In article <POLLACK.93Jan7225325@dendrite.cis.ohio-state.edu> 
pollack@cis.ohio-state.edu writes:

>STOP! That bunuel-esque story is enough to make me vomit my call for
>an end to this WARNING! thread, whose initial reportage of one
>woodworker's booboo has turned into a freeforall about friends and
>relatives's bizarro accidents. Let's get back to our hobby, carefully
>now, with our new supply of pencils, toothbrush with erasers, and
>dusty old bladeguards whose ratchet teeth ruin nice stock.
>
>Or, do we need a new group rec.crafts.woodworking.accidents?? 

I for one have found the accident reports very valuable.  I save them all
to a file called accident.reports and I read it once in a while.  And often
when I am about to use a tool for a task I have a thought like "this is what
that guy who lost his thumb was doing because he didn't such-and-such" or
"remember the fella who sliced the tip of his finger off because he forgot
to so-and-so".  The anecdotes really apply, and remembering them, I believe,
enhances my own safety.

I'll add my own story:

About 15 years ago I had really never used any powered woodworking tools,
although I was a trained machinist.  Right next to the metal shop where I was
working there was a huge (about 40'x80') woodworking shop, owned by the same
company.  I needed to cut some boards for a speaker cabinet and I asked them
to help me.  I was directed to the table saw.  The saw in question was a 16"
monster with a 5 HP motor.  I don't even know what I did wrong, for at the
time I really had no idea about table saw safety.  But somehow a kickback
occurred and I notched the tip of one finger on that fearsome 16" carbide
blade.  Not very serious, in the scale of things, but I don't have to tell
you folks how scary it was.

The moral of this one, I think, is don't EVER let anyone use your hazardous
tools without making sure that they are aware of the safety considerations.
These guys thought, I guess, that since I was competent on the lathe, milling
machine, tig-welder, etc, that I was qualified to use the table saw, and they
didn't even question me.  In reality I didn't know much past "always wear
safety glasses".

Now that I own my own saw, I feel sort of lucky that I developed such a
large amount of respect for it with such a small loss of flesh.

Regards,

Jay Keller
Sunnyvale, CA

badboy@netcom.com
From: mfleet@memstvx1.memst.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Camphor wood
Date: 5 Jan 93 10:12:04 -0600
Distribution: world
Organization: Memphis State University

In article <4JAN199317280156@merlin.caltech.edu>, djt@merlin.caltech.edu (David Thompson) writes:
> Hi All,
> 
> 	I was wondering if anyone out there has worked with camphor wood? I
> have two chunks about 12" diam and 12"tall that were cut off of a tree in
> front of my apartment. It has been 6 months now (they have been sitting out
> exposed to the elements), but they still smell of camphor. Do I need to 
> worry about toxicity of the camphor? Where can I go to find out more about
> the wood (i.e. books)?
> 
> 				Thanks in advance,  Dave Thompson.
** I have never worked with camphor wood, but have several pieces of furniture
that use the wood as a liner.  The wood itself is a close relative of the
tree that produces cinnamon.  It's aromatic nature is more than just pleasing.
It has been traditionally used in the far east for lining chests of various
kinds, as the fumes it releases will repell (perhaps kill?) moths and other 
nasties, just as we use moth balls.  Sailors to this region began using camphor
wood not only for this, but for lining tool chests.  The vapors also 
displace moist air.  I have had one chest for about 30 years.  The lining is
only about 1/4" thick, but when the aroma diminishes, a light but brisk 
rub with fine sandpaper revives the smell.  A friend has a chest that
he bought in Japan during Japanese reconstruction following WWII.  Used, the
chest cannot be dated exactly.  His still smells as well.  The wood is also
used in Japan and other areas of the far east for wood carvings used in
temples.  The shavings are used to make incense.  You may have quite a
treat in using this wood!  Save your scraps, shavings and even sawdust.
Use these in small bags in your sweater drawer, like aromatic cedar is
used.  This still doesn't answer whether the wood is toxic in any way
to humans.  If it were me, I would wear a good dust mask, like I do for
cedar, readwood, walnut, etc., and do a little with it.  Then stay completely
away from it for a day or so.  Without being a hypochondriac, try and
notice any unusual respiratory or dermatological irritations.  If you
don't notice any, full speed ahead, but I would still use the dust mask
on this or any other highly aromatic wood.
Have fun!  
Marrin Fleet
Memphis State University
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mmlk@cbnewsc.cb.att.com (Margo Kubiak)
Subject: Delta's phone number?
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 13:07:21 GMT

During a pre Christmas cleaning spree It seems I threw out my Delta
manual for my several month old Unisaw. Could someone please post or
send me the Delta service number in any Delta service manual?
My thanks in advance.

Margo Kubiak	UUCP: ..!att!ihpubj!mmlk	Internet: mmlk@ihpubj.att.com
Please send your phone number or snail mail address if you reply to
this message, I am on a restricted site and sometimes cannot reply
to email even though I seem to get most of it fine. Thanks in  advance.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ameres@manhattan.cat.rpi.edu (Eric Ameres)
Subject: Re: DeWalt biscuit jointer, first look, question.
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 17:19:23 GMT

(Michael Hackney) wrote:

>When the blade is running is *sounds* as though it was rattling a
>little, the sound is particularly evident as it slows down when the
>motor noise has faded some.  It almost sounds like a washer or bearing
>is loose and yet the blade is tight with no visible runout and the
>cuts are fine.  I don't want to take this apart yet, I thought I would
>wait at least 24hrs :-).

I have the DeWalt BJ and noticed the same noise.  My Porter Cable
RO-Sander makes the same type of sound (kind of a scraping almost?).
I figured since this is happening in 2 unrelated tools it must be
normal.

I would DEFINITELY be interested in what you find out though.

My one complaint is that the dust chute (sp?) seems to clog up a bit
quickly (particularly when making T-butt type joints) when you have to
hold the machine vertically.  It's not a big deal as long as you keep
emptying the bag.

Eric.
-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Eric Ameres,  Software Engineer                 ameres@cat.rpi.edu
New York State Center for Advanced Technology in Automation & Robotics
Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute - CII 8313, Troy, NY 12180-3590
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: grun@intellistor.com (Paul Grun)
Subject: Re: Ryobi & Fein Detail Sanders
Organization: Intellistor, Inc.
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 93 22:57:45 GMT

In <1993Jan2.010255.1@acad2.alaska.edu> asket@acad2.alaska.edu writes:

>Happy New Year!  I'm about to buy the new Ryobi detail sander (triangular      
>head).  Eagle hardware sells it for $48.  Fein also makes a detail sander
>at about $240.  Is the quality difference really worth that much?  
>  
>Have any of you used these new triangular-head detail sanders?  
>  
>Thanks.      Karl Thoennes

I received a Ryobi detail sander for Christmas.  I sometimes build boats,
which are chock full of odd little nooks and crannies, and it seemed like
the ideal tool.  I tried it out some over the holidays and found it quite
effective.  It is noisy, and gives your hands quite a buzz.
I considered the Fein version for quite a while, but just couldn't bring
myself to part with that much dough.  There was a review of it (the Fein) 
in a magazine sometime ago (no, I don't remember which one).
To summarize, they seemed
to like it alot, but thought it was too noisy.  Gary, is that true?
I've never seen the Fein in person, so can't personally comment on its
construction. 

-Paul
once in a while, you get shown the light...
-- 

goes to show, you don't ever know...
grun@intellistor.com
From: david@talgras.UUCP (David Hoopes)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: If you were going to start a small wood shop...?
Date: 12 Jan 93 14:19:15 GMT
Reply-To: david@talgras.UUCP (David Hoopes)
Organization: Tallgrass Technologies Inc.

In article <6642.2b51818b@hayes.com> msieweke@hayes.com writes:
>If you are going so far as cutting your own lumber, I recommend the Wood
>Miser bandsaw mill.  My dad has one and it's a great little piece of
>engineering.  But you will also want a kiln.  Wood dries at a rate of
>about 1 inch per year in the air, and you probably don't want to wait 
>that long.  A solar kiln can do a very nice job.

What is the cost of a Wood Miser Bandsaw mill, and what size logs can
you cut.  I have access to about forty logs, and I have been looking for
a way to get them milled.  






-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------
David Hoopes                              Tallgrass Technologies Inc. 
david@tallgrass.COM                       11100 W 82nd St.          
Voice: (913) 492-6002 x323                Lenexa, Ks  66214        
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: phil@mailhub.scf.lmsc.lockheed.com (Phil English)
Subject: Wanted/ Disk sander
Keywords: Disk Sander
Organization: Lockheed Santa Cruz, CA.
Date: Wed, 13 Jan 93 00:11:52 GMT

	I am still looking for a 12" to 24" used /old disk sander. I will 
pay cash commensurate with size, HP, condition etc.
	I attempted to find the gentleman in Ada Ohio who builds tools but 
his name is not listed in the public directories.
	Please E-mail me with any leads. Perfer the central California area 
but I'll drive further if necessary. Your help is appreciated!

				(B{ Thanks, Phil
Date: Sunday, 10 Jan 1993 17:27:52 EST
From: <34AEJ7D@CMUVM.BITNET>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Fine woodworking wants in....
Distribution: world

In article <lks96tINNkgc@exodus.Eng.Sun.COM>, coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM (Chip
Coffin) says:
>
>In my product ventures, I have been talking with fine woodworking
>about stuff, and RWW came up.
>...
>Could someone tell me how you can become a subscriber with just
>a phone line?

Quick, cheap and less reliable method:  Get an account on any Public
Access BBS, such as the various Freenets, that offers Internet and
Usenet/Netnews services.

More costly, more reliable method:  Get an account on a commercial
service, such as Delphi, Compu$erve, etc., that offers Internet
and Usenet/Netnews services.

W. K. (Bill) Gorman

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: tomj@monster.apd.saic.com (Tom Johnson)
Subject: Eye protection
Organization: SAIC, Reston, VA
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 14:18:20 GMT

More on the subject of shop safety:

I'm going in for a routine eye exam this week, followed by
purchase of new glasses.

Echoing through my mind are Norm's famous words:  "No safety rule
is more important than these ... a good pair of safety glasses."
(or something like that).

This made me wonder:  For (extremely) myopic woodworkers, are
safety glasses better than goggles over glasses?  I, for one, hate
goggles; they tend to fog and gather dust, and overall tend to obscure
my vision badly.  I always wear them, but I wonder if there's anything
better.

Has anyone out there used prescription safety glasses?  Are they any
better?  Do they come with some sort of snap-on side guards to protect
the sides?

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bds@mbunix.mitre.org (Smith)
Subject: Re: Sprunger Brothers tools?
Organization: The MITRE Corporation, Bedford, MA
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 14:01:36 GMT

In article <WOODWORK%93010910553115@IPFWVM.BITNET> Jim Morgan <JMORGAN@BROWNVM.BITNET> writes:
>     Does anyone out there know of or own any tools made by Sprunger
>Brothers, Inc. of Topeka, Indiana?
>
>     My father-in-law recently gave me his old lathe, made by this
>company.  He had used it pretty hard: the bearings are shot, the 4-step
>pulley is warped, and I think the headstock spindle is out of true.
>This morning, I made some calls and ended up having a very nice chat
>with a Mr. William Davis ("81 going on 82, but still working two days
>a week"), who had been the general manager of the company since its
>inception in  1946.  According to Mr. Davis, Sprunger Brothers made
>several models of table saws, band saws, jig saws, belt sanders, and
>lathes.  He has promised to send me a parts list for my lathe, as well
>as any old catalogs he can find.  Apparently, although the company has
>been sold (to a concern called Elkhart Cases), parts are still
>stocked.  He thought that a complete replacement headstock would run
>about $125.  Given the cost of a new lathe of comparable quality, this
>sounds good to me.
>
>Jim Morgan
>Brown University

I'm a little confused by this.  Why would you want to replace the
complete headstock if all you need to replace is the shaft, pulley,
and bearings (unless it's cheaper that way)?  Replacing the shaft,
pulley, and bearings should be trivial, assuming the cast iron of the
headstock is sound.  In fact, it would be about the same effort as
changing the belt, I would think.  At least, that's the case on my
lathe. 

Barry
From: jjohnson@EDWARDS-SCY.AF.MIL (Jim Johnson 7-9535 (6518 TS/EN))
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Ryobi planer
Date: 12 Jan 93 00:19:57 GMT
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-Mailer: ELM [version 2.2 PL0]
              11, 93 6:48 pm


      I am wondering if I am missing something.  I get end snipe on my
      boards when I run them through my Makita.  So What?  I just cut off
      the 2 inches and continue on.  It probably isn't prudent to cut to
      length before planing anyway.

      James Johnson
      Standard Disclaimer
From: david@talgras.UUCP (David Hoopes)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Water stained pine
Date: 6 Jan 93 14:05:48 GMT
Reply-To: david@talgras.UUCP (David Hoopes)
Organization: Tallgrass Technologies Inc.

In article <1icg46INNe6m@seven-up.East.Sun.COM> thompson@woolly.Eng.Sun.COM (Keith B. Thompson - SMCC) writes:
>i have a window frame, made out of pine, which has
>a great deal of water staining. i have fixed the
>source of the water and would like to paint the
>frame with, eventualy, a latex paint. i have done
>this before, put a couple of coats of primer on
>then the finish coat but the stain, over time,
>works it's way through... any suggestions, short
>of replacing the frame!
>

I have never used it on wood, but there is a primer for covering water
stains on ceilings that might work.  It is called "KILLS".  It works 
real well.  I have used it several times on ceilings that where water
stained.  It's the only thing that I have ever found that will block
the stain from comming thru again.  It's not nice stuff, but it is 
worth the headache.

WARNING "KILLS" is the most obnoxious chemical that I have ever worked
around for anything.  You must have LOTS of ventilation when you are using
it, and plan on evacuating the house for several hours when you have 
finished.

The last time I used it to paint a ceiling, I opened all of the windows
in that room, and turned on the attic fan to bring in fresh air from 
outside.  Then I raced to roll the ceiling as quickly as possable.  By
the time I was done (less then an hour) I was already starting to get
high from the fumes.



-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------
David Hoopes                              Tallgrass Technologies Inc. 
david@tallgrass.COM                       11100 W 82nd St.          
Voice: (913) 492-6002 x323                Lenexa, Ks  66214        
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: gregt@hfglobe.intel.com (Greg Tollefson)
Subject: Making wooden blinds
Organization: Intel Corporation
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 21:00:18 GMT



I am thinking about making wooden blinds.  Has
anyone tried something along these lines?  I have
questions on what is the best wood to use.  One
suggestion was basswood.  Basswood seems to have
low density and I know that is a good chioce for 
carving.  What other woods should I consider?  As
far as machining,  I am thinking of setting up a 
double blade arrangement on my tablesaw with a 1/4"
spacer between the blades.  Since I will be ripping
alot of material the double blade will save me time.
For finishing the blinds I would either belt sand
or run them through my thickness planer.  Any thoughts
on this?  I plan on getting hardware from some old 
blinds that came with the house (complete with several
coats of lead paint...hence the new blinds).


Greg T.





-- 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: Resawing with Delta 16 inch bandsaw
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 19:05:25 GMT

william.l.millios writes
> I seem to remember reading somewhere that somebody recommended
> a 1/4 inch bimetal blade for all bandsawing activities; this person
> visited some shop (how's this for precision of memory) and saw
> the bimetal blade being used for everything from curves to 
> resawing, and was sold on the idea.  
> 
> The bimetal construction apparently lends some kind of attribute
> not normally present in standard blades.

The attribute is that the back part of the blade is very strong and
can take a high tensile force. The problem is that most non-industrial
bandsaws, and I would definitely include the Delta 3-wheeler in that
category, are not built to supply those kinds of tensions. Some bimetal
manufacturers won't sell their blades in home-bandsaw lengths.

I have a video by Jim Cummings, who wrote about the technique in FWW.
He demonstrates it in his video on a Delta 14" saw. He was running the
1/4" bi-metal blade at above the 3/4" setting - and says he eventually
did some damage to his saw like stipping threads or ruining the spring.
A woodworking machinery dealer told me that lots of people had done nasty
things to their bandsaws by tensioning them so high. 

In the video I recall Jim keeping the setting at just below the 3/4" mark
- not as high as he says he had gone in the past. I think it's a prudent 
idea to keep the tension within the range designed for the saw. Mark 
Duninske, in his bandsaw handbook, says that most consumer bandsaws 
cannot properly tension anything wider than a 1/2" blade.

Cummings borrowed an expensive gauge to set the tension, then matched the
pitch of the blade when plucked to a pitch pipe, so he could set it later
without the gauge. I would imagine that the height of the upper blade 
guides would affect the pitch, though.


> Note that I do not have a bandsaw nor a bimetal blade, just
> a memory like a packrat.

My statements are from memory also. I do have a bandsaw, but don't use
bimetal blades on it. How's my memory doing? ;^)

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com

BTW, I second all the praise for the 1/2" Wood Slicer blade, available
from Highland Hardware. Best blade I've had on my saw.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking