From: u6409886@ucsvc.ucs.unimelb.edu.au
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Arapiles Version 2.0
Date: 17 Nov 92 14:25:08 +1100
Organization: The University of Melbourne

Just got back from a trip to Arapiles. Here is an updated information
sheet for the area. The work being done there by the Victorian Climbing
Club and local nature lovers should be a model for Parks management.
If you ever get a chance, go there.
Andrew Davies
***********************************************************************
Version 2.0

Classic Australian Climbing Area #1: Mount Arapiles (Victoria)

General Description:
(Rock, setting, location etc)

Mount Arapiles is geologically an intrusion of metamorphosed sandstone
(quartzite), the surrounding material of which has weathered away to
leave the mount sitting in the middle of an essentially flat area, which
is largely devoted to (unsubsidised) wheat growing. Visually then, it is
quite striking, as the 3km or so of cliffline rises up to 200m above the
surrounding plains, and is visible for some distance as you drive towards
it. It is sometimes described as "the Ayre's rock of the Wimmera". Arapiles
is roughly half-way between the cities of Melbourne and Adelaide, and the
nearest towns are Natimuk 9 km (pop one thousand) and Horsham 30 km
(pop 12,800). It is possible to get to Horsham by train
or bus, and then hitch to Arapiles. 

Environment: Arapiles is God's own place for climbers to visit. 
Don't be put off by the first appearence of the rock. It looks like
a bunch of giant cow pats, but the true quality is appreciated
by stepping foot on it. The various cliffs are contained within
a state forest, and is thus the province of the state conservation and
environment department. There are very few restrictions in place (so far),
the only major one - against the placement of abseil (rappel) chains-
(don't ask me, I think it beats the hell out of people eroding gullies etc
scrambling off) has just been lifted, and rap stations have appeared
at most cliff tops. There is a fair bit of wildlife at Arapiles, Kangaroos,
birds of prey and about 10^8 lizards. All wildlife is protected by law,
and _all_ snakes are likely to be (very) poisonous. Snakes break their
hibernation in Oct/Nov, and are most active then.
	November is the best month to visit Arapiles if you like wildlife and
wildflowers. My recent trip there was just magnificent, and in the space
of a few days we saw a brown snake (almost stepped on it), lots of big
lizards (who were willing to be fed by hand), falcons, kestrels, eagles,
kangaroos, and a large variety of other birds. The birds of prey nest on
some of the choice climbs of the mount, and it is requested that these
climbs are avoided during the nesting season (mid Oct-late Nov). A list
of climbs affected is posted on the notice board outside the toilets.
	The Victorian Climbing Club has been active in helping to
preserve the environment there, and to this end have installed rap
stations and built some discrete stone steps in much travelled places.
There is a local "friends of Arapiles" group, who hold working days to
plant native trees and pull up exotic weeds. You can help by pulling
out weeds in places non-climbers can not get to (make sure you know
waht the weeds look like!). Also, please keep to the established trails
to and from climbs. It is an unfortunate fact of life that many people
visit such scenic places, and will have a large impact on the area if
they all walk wherever they feel like walking.
	In general, this much used area has stood up pretty well to
the amount of traffic it has received. Please help to keep it that way.

Weather: Generally very good, but can be wet in the springtime. (Sep-Nov)
In the hottest part of the summer the big faces can be unliveable, but there
are enough gullies etc to avoid this as a rule. In the winter the temperature
is generally warm enough for climbing (>5 C), but it can get chilly.

Amenities:
Camping is allowed at Arapiles, and there is usually a small community
of climbers camped amongst the pine trees ("The Pines"). There is a
toilet block, and available (though somewhat revolting) groundwater
via a few taps for washing. For drinking there is a rainwater tank behind
the toilet block which contains good quality drinking water, but I
suspect that in the summer this will run dry, and it will be best to 
take a container of water for extended trips. (The town water in 
Natimuk is fine). There are some fixed fireplaces
(and many unofficial ones), but for much of the summer there is an absolute
(and important!) ban on open fires, so a small gas stove is often advisable.
Also, do _not_ strip the local vegetation for wood. The parks department
often brings wood in, and there is no shortage from the sides of the
approach roads, so stop and collect your own. There is a pub in 
Natimuk which has good counter meals if you want a change of diet.
There is a climbing/camping gear shop on main street Natimuk 
called Tjuringa - gear for sale, boots resoled, Friends fixed etc.
There is a telephone box near the entrance to the camping area. It
has a notice informing one about the Arapiles Emergency group (formed
by police, medical and climbing groups in the area) which has been
set up to help in emergencies. The number is on the notice.

Documentation:

There have been several Arapiles guidebooks, and there is rumoured to be
a new one not far off...(Note: this statement is almost always true.)
The Victorian Climbing club interim guidebook should be available ($20), and
provides details of the 2000 or so climbs (!), as well as notes
like those above, and some photos of climbs/climbers, as well as
some interesting historical notes. Note that Aussie guidebooks do not have
topos, and usually no diagrams at all. The description of a climb will
be like :

	WATCHTOWER CRACK,  100m, 16 ***

	A bloody great climb up one of the finest natural lines in Victoria.
        The first ascent party psyched themselves up for a '200ft 
        overhanging layback'. In the event it was a dramatic day of
        terror illness and rebellion. Starts at the right of the 
	majestic Watchtower.
 
	1. (25m) Up the face trending left to a good ledge.
	2. (20m) Up to the cave.
        3. (25m) Up to the thought provoking roof. Turn this, then
        continue up the hypnotic corner. Some bigs nuts help.
        [No they don't. Try a #4 Camelot. AD]
	4. 30m Finish up the corner. [Don't fall off before the bolt
	runner - you will land on your belayer. AD]

Sometimes there is more than this, but not much. It is sometimes a challenge
in itself to find the sucker you want to climb. If in doubt, ask. The "***"
means a recommended/popular climb (Max. ***). 

The climbing (at last):

The best word to describe this is fantastic. What do you want to climb ?
Arapiles has it, from disgusting grunty off widths and chimneys, to
delicate slab climbs. There are *** climbs in almost every grade from 3
to 30 (and a few outside that range). The protection is almost all
natural, though an increasing number of the harder climbs are bolted
(Editorial note: there is something of a double standard here - bolts
are tolerated much more on harder climbs, even though fewer people will
use them.) Note: bolts here do not (repeat not) usually have fixed hangers.
You will need bolt plates, and a quick lesson in their use before you start.
By and large though, you will get by with a good selection of nuts and
some TCUs. In the rare places where protection is marginal/poor the book
will warn you. The rock is almost uniformly good.

Recommended climbs:

*** Bard 12, 120m  - very atmospheric, airy beginner's climb, with a great
                     traverse

*** D Minor, 13, 33m - bigish overhangs on a 13! Great.

*** Tocatta, 14, 50m - a stylish corner/undercling on the first pitch

*** WatchTower Crack, 16, 100m - the line to end all lines - great climbing
                                 up a corner slab in a superb setting

*** Eurydice, 18, 100m - a strenuous line up a very steep, airy buttress

*** Skink,  18,  106m - up a giant flake in even better positions than
                        Watchtower Crack.

*** Little Thor, 20, 12m (!!) - every move a gem, a trying lead

*** Thunder Crack, 20, 30m - starts some 120 m up - probably the airiest
                             climb at Araps. One for Dr OW.

*** Kachoong, 21, 25m - ape across a 5m roof to a hard pull around. The
                        name is onamatepaeic - it is the sound of the
                        rope catching the falling leader.

**  No Future, 21, 24m - a superb pitch on wonderful rock. Steep, balancey
                         and well protected.