HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: chucko@kronos.arc.nasa.gov (Chuck Fry)
Subject: Re: Motor oil is motor oil... or is it?
Summary: Mobil 1 10W30 should be widely available.
Organization: Recom Technologies, NASA Ames Research Center, Moffett Field, CA
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 17:09:35 GMT

In article <1992Sep14.155541.2288@sq.sq.com> donald@sq.sq.com (Donald Teed) writes:
>I have been looking for a synthetic oil which matches the type
>recommended for my vehicle (10W30), but I don't see it available.
>I can find 5W30 and 15W50 in synthetic.  Is there something
>I don't understand about the numbers?  Does anyone have
>a recommendation on who makes 10W30 in synthetic form?

Mobil 1 has made a 10W30 for the last couple of years, and this grade
is very widely available (in the US at least).  Check Target if they
have one in your area.  Target's prices for Mobil 1 are also very
reasonable for a synthetic.

Alternately 5W30 is not too far off; I used this for quite a while
before the 10W30 became available.  Even if your car "requires" 10W30,
the 5W30 makes a good winter oil.  I would hesitate to recommend the
15W50 for such a car because it is just too thick.  My old Mustang ran
on 15W50 for quite a while and suffered substantial loss of oil
pressure as the miles added up; over the same distance, my current
Mustang (same basic engine) has held pressure just fine with the 5W30
and 10W30.  Admittedly this is a very limited sample, but I am a firm
believer in not using too heavy an oil.

 -- Chuck Fry  Chucko@charon.arc.nasa.gov
From: eur@dutncp2.tn.tudelft.nl (Eur van Andel)
Subject: Re: Chevette Head Repairs
Organisation: TU Delft, The Netherlands
Organization: Delft University of Technology
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 13:37:21 GMT

In <1992Sep13.175023.9586@emr1.emr.ca> globay@emr1.emr.ca (George Lobay) writes:

>The cam on my wife's '86 Chevette is in dire need of replacement.
>Assuming that more or less the same amount of money is involved in
>each case, which avenue would be the easiest:

>1 - Get a used replacement head from the auto wrecker and replace
>    the whole head; or

This is easier, provided that you don't have to grind the valves.
Junkyard heads lie patiently in the rain for some years: the valves and
valve seats tend to get a little rusty by that time :-(

>2 - Get a replacement camshaft and replace just it.

What is wrong with the camshaft? Are the lobes worn? The shaft bent? 
In any case you 'll have to replace more than just the camshaft: the rocker
arms for instance, or the valve covers.

>I'll do whichever is easier.  Anybody got any practical experience on this?

I have: I grinded the valves of a $100 BMW 2-liter 6-cylinder head, only to
have it destroyed later by the STUPID BMW design of their timing belt
spanner. Grrr! (Not my car, I only grinded the head)


eur
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:12395 rec.autos:21675 dc.general:2127
From: jeanthea@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Mark Jeantheau)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos,dc.general
Subject: experiences with Maaco
Date: 9 Sep 92 16:27:05 GMT
Reply-To: jeanthea@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Mark Jeantheau)
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Distribution: dc
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

Anybody have any experiences, good or bad, with Maaco Autobody? I'm
considering having my peeling '84 Mustang painted; they quoted me
$900. That's about what I want to spend, and they give a two-year
written warranty. I know you don't get a great paint job for $900, but
it doesn't really have to be great -- I only need it to last a few years
(car has 132K miles on it).  And I don't want to spend more than $1000.

Any comments?

-----
jeanthea@oasys.dt.navy.mil // Mark Jeantheau // (202) 227-3562 // U.S. Navy
Naval Surface Warfare Center, Carderock Div. // Code 1401 // Bethesda MD 20084
-----
Opinions expressed herein blah blah blah... [Standard disclaimer.]
-----
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: lester@naomi.b23b.ingr.com (Les Bartel)
Subject: Re: Throttle response from stop lags
Reply-To: lester@naomi.b23b.ingr.com
Organization: Dazix, An Intergraph Company
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 13:13:21 GMT

In article <1992Sep14.162125.6415@eng.umd.edu>, hamilton@eng.umd.edu (Andrew W. Hamilton) writes:
|> 
|> In article <BuFC79.2Eu@csn.org>, limd@teal.csn.org (Davin Lim) writes:
|> >I have an '84 Pontiac 6000STE with a 2.8l V6 (normally-aspirated).  If I try to
|> >accellerate "hard" from a stopped position (e.g. flooring the throttle,) there 
|> >is a distinct lag in the engine's response.  It will actually take a second or
|> >two to start building significant RPMs.  Things seem to be more responsive if 
|> >I don't floor the pedal but rather depress it more smoothly. 
|> 
|> My '78 Buick LeSabre does this too.  If you floor it, nothing happens for
|> a few seconds.  But if you only press it about 2/3 of the way down you can
|> make it spin the wheels almost immediately.   I don't know the answer, but
|> whould speculate that a better carb might cut down on the problem.  Anyone
|> know for sure?
|> 
|> Andrew.

Check your accelerator pump.  With the engine off (and preferably cold)
remove the air cleaner cover and work the throttle.  You should see raw
gas being injected into the carburator as the throttle is being opened.
Too much gas can cause flooding, and too little gas causes the mixture
to be too lean for the power you are demanding.  Either way you can
experience lag or even stalling.  I have never seen too much gas being
injected, but I suppose it is possible, just not as likely.  A hole in
the accelerator pump diaphram will prevent the full charge of gas from
being injected.

 - les

-- 
Les Bartel			lester@naomi.b23b.ingr.com
Dazix, An Intergraph Company	uunet!ingr!b23b!naomi!lester
Huntsville, AL			(205) 730-8537

There are three kinds of people in the world:
Those who can count, and those who can't.
From: behanna@phoenix.syl.nj.nec.com (Chris BeHanna)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Stall Out when stopping
Keywords: Plymoth Horizon Stall When Stopping, Manual Shift
Date: 4 Sep 92 22:15:20 GMT
Article-I.D.: research.1992Sep4.221520.2574
Organization: NEC Systems Laboratory, Inc.

In article <Bu0r01.Gyp@acsu.buffalo.edu> bphdarcy@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (SJ Roc D'Arcy, MBP) writes:
>I have a problem with a 1987 Plymoth Horizon with a manual shift.
>
>What happens is that when one depresses the clutch to come to a stop
>the engine stalls out.  It runs fine elswise and re-starts just fine after 
>stalling and doesn't stall again until the next decelleration to a stop.
>It seems like a sensor failure or an idle problem.

	Is this car fuel injected?  If so, it is probably the AIS (Automatic
Idle Speed) motor.  My ex-girlfriend's car went through two of them in less
than 50K miles.  You can pay about $55 for one aftermarket.  They're relatively
easy to install.

Good luck,
-- 
Chris BeHanna	DoD# 114   1983 Harley-Davidson FXWG Wide Glide (She lives!)
behanna@syl.nj.nec.com	   (I need another bike for this space!)

Disclaimer:  Now why would NEC agree with any of this anyway?
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: (Eric Youngblood)
Subject: Re: estimating real performance gains
Reply-To: Peon w/o Email priv (Eric Youngblood)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Richardson, Tx
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1992 20:31:19 GMT

In article <1992Sep7.112916@worf.UCSD.Edu>, dlou@WORF.UCSD.EDU (Dennis Lou) writes:
|> 
|> Given a car's curb weight, max horsepower rating, max torque rating, etc.
|> is it possible to ESTIMATE how much an increase in horsepower/torque
|> would be necessary to reduce the 0-60 time by 1 second (assuming the
|> change in timing, exhaust manifold, or whatever does not cause the 
|> power/torque to decrease along any point of its original curve)?
|> 
|> How about the necessary reduction in weight?  reduction by 1 second  in
|> 1/4 mile times?  top speed?
|> 
|> 
|> -- 
|> Dennis Lou             || "But Yossarian, what if everyone thought that way?"
|> dlou@ucsd.edu          || "Then I'd be crazy to think any other way!"
|> [backbone]!ucsd!dlou   |+====================================================
|> dlou@ucsd.BITNET       |Steve Jobs and Steve Wozniak went to my high school.



There is a book printed that has a lot of useful formulas for automotive 
enthusiasts. I think Haynes is the publisher. The title is "AUTO MATH".

In the text is a section which comes close to answering your question:

It is possible to "estimate" quarter mile ETs based on HP and vehicle weight.
These are only estimates and the constants used were derived empirically.
          ____________	
  ET = \3/ (weight/HP)  * 5.825  
        V 
           ____________ 
  MPH = \3/ (HP/weight) * 234
         V                     

ex: 93 RX7 weighs ~2800 lbs and rates 255 bhp
If you add weight of driver and any fuel &/or equipment you get 
more realistic numbers ...
ie.. 2800lbs + 150lb driver + 120lbs gasoline(full tank) = 3070 lbs

   ET = [cube_root(3070/255)]*5.825
   ET = 13.35

   MPH = [cube_root(255/3070)] * 234
   MPH = 102.09

You can also estimate HP from vehicle wt and known ET.

   HP = weight / (ET/5.825)^3
 
so a 3500 lb car that can do a 13.5 sec quarter mile ET ...

   HP = 3500 / (13.5/5.825)^3
   HP = 281.16

The formulas dont take into account changes in gear ratios, traction, shift
points, etc. It is assumed that perfect shifts are made. These formulas will
get you "close" to what may be possible with a given chassis and engine 
combination, before spending any money. They are also alot of fun to play with
in the "WHAT IF?" mode. Of course they work best in a narrow range of parameters
ie .. normal weight street autos with reasonable gear sets & ratios.

Have fun,

$0.02
Ericy
From: reynolds@felix.filenet.com (David Lee Reynolds)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Saab bulletin board
Date: 10 Sep 92 21:20:36 GMT
Reply-To: reynolds@fritz.filenet.com (David Lee Reynolds)
Organization: FileNet Corp., Costa Mesa, CA

>In article <1992Sep8.182709.7526@CSD-NewsHost.Stanford.EDU> sankar@Xenon.Stanford.EDU (Sriram Sankar) writes:
>
>I've heard mention of a Saab bulletin board.  How does one get
>on it?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Sriram.
>sankar@cs.stanford.edu

	There used to be a "SAAB Sonnet 3" club around here 10 years ago.

	(Orange County, So. California).  

	I tried calling the number on the latest news letter yesterday, but as
	you would expect after 10 years, no answer...  (I would assume it is 
	regular home owner now, who has no idea what a Sonnet 3 is!).

	Does anyone know where an active Sonnet 3 club is...  (Locally)

	I called the Newport Saab dealer, and he gave me the Main office in
	Georgia, but they did not answer either?

			Thanks ahead of time for your help!

			David Lee Reynolds...
From: plumpe@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Plumpe)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: A/C manifold gauges question
Date: 11 Sep 92 13:17:44 GMT
Reply-To: plumpe@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Plumpe)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.autos.tech, jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond) writes:
>
(stuff deleted about gas laws and their applicability)
>
>There are only 2 and a half correct ways of charging the system.  With
>a sight glass, simply charge til the glass is clear plus an ounce or two.
>Lacking a sightglass, you must evacuate and charge by weight.  The half
>correct way is to use some method to infer the status of the condenser
>exit line.  Ultrasonic bubble listeners work sometimes by listening
>for bubbles in the line but only if there is not too much noise from
>the compressor.  Feeling the condenser is a somewhat workable method.
>The liquid flooded rows of tubes are relatively cooler than the part
>actively shedding heat.  A last method that works fairly well with
>skill and experience is to briefly heat the condenser exit tube with
>a high intensity flame, say from a MAP gas torch.  If the tube remains
>cool, it contains liquid.  If it gets warm, it contains mostly gas.
>

    I generally keep track of refrigerant levels in both my car and
house A/C by feeling the temperature of the suction line where it leaves
the evaporator.  If the line is good & cold (covered with condensation,
etc.), there is likely still some liquid boiling at that point, thus
there is enough refrigerant (for those particular operating conditions).
If the line is not cold, all the refrigerant has boiled before reaching
that point, meaning there is not enough refrigerant.  If the evaporator
outlet feeds a receiver, condensation on the receiver case will show
how much liquid is in the receiver (this is the case with my '77 Chevy).

    When adding refrigerant, I do it through a gage set, but use the above
"feels good" method to tell me when enough's enough.

    Is there anything wrong with what I'm doing (and have done for ~20
years)?

-DaveP
From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: fixing dented headers
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1992 09:13:48 -0500

 JH> Some of the tubes on my headers are dented.. Looks like the previous
 JH> owner overestimated the car's ground clearance at one time.  All
 JH> 4 of the lower pipes are dented in varying amounts.  My first
 JH> question is whether or not this can be repaired.  I can't be the
 JH> first person to have this problem, and it seems like a waste to
 JH> get a whole new set of headers.  My second question is how much of
 JH> an effect the dents have anyway.  One of the tubes looks about %50
 JH> closed.  New headers for the car run about $200 so I'd rather not
 JH> replace them unless I have to.

Depending where the dents are, you could possibly fix them with an exhaust pipe
expander. This would involve removing the headers, slipping in the (possibly
modified) exhaust pipe expander, heating the pipe at the point of the dent, and
expanding the expander.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Shocks for '79 RX-7
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 4 Sep 92 19:02:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * Jacksonville AR USA * 501-985-0059


-> I am in need of a new set of shocks for my 1979 RX7.  The present set
-> is completely sacked.  Does anyone have recommendations on a good set
-> of shocks for this car?  Performance is more of a
-> concern than ride quality.

 After years of experimenting, I now simply use KYB Gas-A-Just shocks
and strut inserts.  I have one set that have seen 16 years of hard
driving and are still rock hard.

 KYB doesn't seem to vary their valving much from car to car.  They're
relatively stiff on heavy cars, and *very* stiff on light ones.  That's
fine - I love them anyway.
From: pchen@crhc.uiuc.edu (Paul Chen)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: loud gearbox: 79 datsun 210 5spd
Date: 15 Sep 1992 02:11:28 -0500
Organization: Center for Reliable and High-Performance Computing, University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign
NNTP-Posting-Host: jarrett.crhc.uiuc.edu
Keywords: gearbox fluid datsun

i have a 79 datsun 210 hatchback, 5spd, A14 engine, 120K miles.
i change the oil regularly @ 3K miles.  lately (6-9 months) i've
noticed that while in 3d or 5th gears (this is an old H-pattern:
                     R 2 4
                     |_|_|
                     | | |
                     1 3 5 )
there is a loud buzzing/rattling emanating from the gearbox, just
below the shift.  if i lift/push the shift towards neutral just an
inch or less, some of the noise dissipates, but it still vibrates
and makes some noise.  1st & 2d seem to be ok, but they are loud
gears to begin with (high rpm); 4th is a dream; 5th is the worst.

is this a symptom of low gearbox fluid?  is there such a thing,
and can i refill it?  any other ideas?  am i about to drive the
car into the pavement?

paul
pchen@crhc.uiuc.edu

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sykhor@essex.ecn.uoknor.edu (Sek Yong Khor)
Subject: BRONCO II erratic ideling / EGR system at fault?
Summary: Read It!
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 1992 09:28:51 GMT
Organization: Engineering Computer Network, University of Oklahoma, Norman, OK, USA
Keywords: BRONCO II

Hoping to get quick help on my following problem ...or advise to
sell my BRONCO II :(

Along with the lower temperatures and wetter days of the past one month,
my BRONCO II also started acting up funny.  Details:

	BRONCO II '85
	2.8l V6, 103k miles, re-built heads

	Engine's hard to start in the mornings, especially on three
	occasions when it had just rained the night before with
	temperatures 50-60 F; on these 3 mornings the ideling was
	erratic, to a point when it keeps dieing out.

	First time round the autoshop found nothin wrong, and the
	on-board computer reported nothing either.

	Second occasion, I had the themostat changed, the computer
	had only reported a temp gauge reading too low temperatures,
	supposedly making the fuel/air mix richer in an attempt to
	raise the operating temperature.  By now my mpg had dropped
	from 17+ to 14+

	Three days back, I took it out for a spin, had an hour's stop
	then continued.  And the same erratic ideling came up again.
	This time the computer reports about six error messages (temp, etc)
	and the autoshop says it's probably the EGR valve stuck open. 
	$115 for the part and $52 labour charge.

	Nop, I didn't OK the job.  I pulled out most of the plugs and
	found what looked like molly-based grease, corrosion, white paste,
	or whatever else on the terminals.  I promptly cleaned them up,
	sprayed on WD40, and pluged them back.
	I've just driven it for about 25 miles, and the fuel gauge has
	dropped from half-mark to less than a quarter!

I obviously don't want to keep fishing out greenbacks to pay for repairs
that won't help, get ripped of, or screw up the engine with my handiworks.
How important is the Exhaust Gas Recirculation system to the running of the
engine?  I've always thot it only purpose was to burn up the excess fuel in
the exhaust mix.  Since the EGR is a vacuum operated valve, couldn't I
clean it up? or maybe's the sensor..... 

I know that there could be a zillion other things wrong to cause the low mpg
and erratic ideling,  at least if anyone's got a lead, PLEASE let me know!

My account here's in the process of changing its email address, a reply
to this news group (if the email fails) is appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Peter KHOR
sykhor@essex.ecn.uoknor.edu

BTW, benn thinking 'bout the 4-Runner......
From: basiji@milton.u.washington.edu (David Basiji)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Good books to learn auto mechanics?
Date: 12 Sep 92 03:41:36 GMT
Article-I.D.: milton.basiji.716269296
Organization: University of Washington


You may not believe this but I think the *absolute* best book as
an introduction to auto mechanics is the "Idiot's Guide" to Volkswagen
repair. The exact title escapes me but it's something like, "How to
repair your Volkswagen, a guide for the compleat idiot" and it's put
out by the John Muir Press. This is the _air-cooled_ version, not the
later one for the rabbit, et al.  

Phenomenally skillful, humorous, and transparent writing and illustration.
Truly one of my favorite books on any subject.

Enjoy,
Dave
-- 
David Basiji 
"C neophyte, Bioengineering Grad Student, Internet Personality"

email: basiji@u.washington.edu          
NeXTmail: basiji@larry.pathology.washington.edu

	"Whining is just anger coming out of a very small opening."
            --Stuart Smalley

   "Who are these Stooges, of which you speak?"
				--Gina, on Seinfeld
From: golder@homer.kodak.com (Patrick Golder)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Aftermarket turbo kits
Date: 10 Sep 92 19:02:59 GMT
Distribution: na

In article <1992Sep10.162809.23625@news.nd.edu>, mikeb@nowaksg.chem.nd.edu (Michael George Buening) writes:
|> Although I agree with the statements that you can't (or rather shouldn't)
|> simply bolt on a turbo without a lot of other considerations, what do you
|> netfolk think about simply engine swaping instead of buying a whole new car?
|> Just a thought.
|> 
"Simply swapping an engine"?  Swapping an engine in not a trivial job,
even if you have the facilities to do such things.  You have to have
engine mounts fabricated, then there's the matter of plumbing & wiring
everything.  You'll need lots of time & a high threshold for
frustration, at a minimum.  And in the end, you still have all the same
things to consider regarding the rest of the car (can the rest of the
drivetrain handle the extra power, is the handling of the car going to
suffer because you added all this weight to the front end, is the
cooling system up to snuff, etc).  Even if you get all the right answers
to these kinds of questions, something else to consider is that you're
pretty much stuck doing any future maintenance on the car yourself,
since the factory service manuals are now useless to a mechanic, &
only you know what you did to the car.  One last consideration is the
car's value when you're done.  Certainly on a trade, you won't get much
for a cobbled up vehicle.  I'm not saying there's no reason to do an
engine swap, I'm only saying that if there's a good factory solution
available, you'll save time, money, & problems by going that route.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Re: A/C manifold gauges question
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 19:55:45 GMT

|> In the Hayes auto A/C book I picked up to learn this stuff implies
|> using the gage pressure scale for reference (or I should say
|> does not mention using the R12 scale. 

I concur with James Swonger's comments on A/C gage pressures and diagnosis.  The inner
R12 scale can also be used for a quick charge check.  That scale basically indicates the
temperature of R12 that would give that pressure reading.  

In the early morning a car usually has had time to cool down to ambient temperature overnight
and it is not yet being heated up by the sun.  Threfore the ambient temperature is usually the
same as the temperature of the A/C system.  If you connect the gage at this time, the inner R12
reading should match the ambient temperature if your have a sufficient charge.  

If the indicated R12 temperature is less, you are undercharged.  If the indicated R12
temperature is more, you are overcharged.  Rather simple and you don't have to deal  with
those higher running pressures.  This method is not precise (doesn't actually tell how much
freon to add/subtract) but is the next best thing to watching a sight glass for bubbles.

regards, Mark    (mark@wdc.sps.mot.com)  Tempe, AZ
From: ggg@hpsad.sad.hp.com (Gary Goodlund)
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 16:43:09 GMT
Subject: Re: Supercharged vehicles
Organization: HP Signal Analysis Division - Rohnert Park, CA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

This only covers the basics but a [Supercharger] is engine driven, usually 
by a V-belt but on some pre-war Mercedes by a gear-train.  Since it is 
directly connected to the engine it starts building boost from very low RPM.
There is more efficiency loss this way though due to the energy required to
operate the supercharger turbine.  

A [Turgocharger] by comparison is more energy-efficient since it is driven
by exhaust gases and requires no power from the engine.  The drawback of
this system is that due to the requirement for exhaust gas flow, the engine
must be turning fast enough to generate that exhaust gas.  Since an internal
combustion engine is basically an air pump, it moves more air the faster it
runs.  

The "Spool-up" time of a turbocharger causes the turbo-lag or throttle-lag
that is experienced when you step on the throttle of a turbocharged engine.
A smaller turbocharger (smaller impeller) spools up faster but doesn't 
increase the engines power as much as a larger turbo.  For a more responsive
engine that still generates higher power, two or more small turbines are 
used instead of one large one.  

Due the increased heat from compressing the incoming air, and the heat 
transferred from the exhaust gases, the newer units are water cooled and
some are even designed to siphon water through them after the engine is 
turned off until they are cool.  If they aren't cooled sufficiently, the 
oil is baked onto the bearings (called coking) causing premature failure.

It must be time to get off my soapbox so I'll get out of here.

'later,
   Gary