HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jimi@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (james.d.wynn)
Subject: 13x8" or 13x8.5" GTI wheels
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 20:02:45 GMT
Keywords: autocross


Subject: 13x8" wheels for GTI
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Distribution: usa
Keywords: autocross...

Hello ..
I found out  that the GTI wheels will fit the Miata ..
I am looking for a set of 13x8" or 13x8.5" rims from a GTI that 
some one was probubly running in DSP or EP...
 thanks in advance ...
write to me direct ...

James D. Wynn
jjnjw@clockwise.att.com

ps...
if you have raced at any NNJR, SJR, PR, NYR SCCA events .. then you have 
probubly seen me ... I drive a white CSP Miata .. usually  
#38.....

peace
Organization: University of Central Florida--Computer Services
Date: Wednesday, 2 Sep 1992 08:44:25 EST
From: <HAHN@UCF1VM.BITNET>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: is ABS std. on 91GTI16V?
 <31AUG199222240030@zeus.tamu.edu> <1SEP199214495804@zeus.tamu.edu>

Another reason it can't be ABS is because it wasn't even an OPTION
on the 91 GTI 16V.  But it does have killer 4 wheel disc brakes,
with a bigger disc in the back than the standard GTI...and also
wider wheels. :-)

I wanted that 5% ABS discount too!
From: borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Buying an old VW Rabbit
Date: 4 Sep 92 18:59:26 GMT
Article-I.D.: hpspkla.31170062
Organization: Hewlett Packard Company, Spokane, Wa.

In rec.autos.vw, eldred@rrunner.jpl.nasa.gov (Dan Eldred) writes:

>Replacing the clutch is difficult==expensive, so make sure to add this to
>the purchase cost of the car, unless you are able to convince yourself that
>the clutch is ok and it's only the adjustment.  Ditto with the CV joint--
>I believe new ones cost about $60 at a discount, and if you have it replaced
>the total bill will be $150-$200.  If one CV joint is bad, probably all
>need to be repacked and have the boots replaced.

On only a very few cars is replacing the clutch more easy (as Saab 99 for
example).  And there are a lot on which it is more difficult.  I did the
job on Saturday.

Is the CV joint bad, or is boot just split?  The mileage is too low for the
CV joints to be going bad.  While the wheel drive shaft is out of the car,
it is easy to repack the both CV joints on that shaft.  I wouldn't worry
about the other one a lot.

>VW's are good cars, but they don't take a lot of abuse or neglect.  If you
>buy it, make sure to maintain it--change oil, oil filter, air filter, fuel
>filter, coolant, and brake fluid on a regular maintenance schedule.  Get
>the valves adjusted every 30,000 miles or less.  Watch all the rubber
>parts (mainly hoses) and replace them before they go bad. 

I agree.  All the maintainance items are outline in the owner's manual.

>There are
>rubber hangers that hold up the muffler that tend to break after about 
>40,000 miles.  Water pumps only last for about 50,000 miles,

I must be doing something wrong.  144,000 miles and no problems here yet.

>and you have to replace the timing belt every 60,000 miles, or so.

Good idea.

>Back to price--for $1100 you're not going to get a new car.  The Rabbit
>is a pretty good choice, in my opinion, in large part due to its low
>resale value these days.  But, at least here in the LA area, it doesn't
>seem to be a very unusually low price--I have seen many '83's and '84's 
>advertised in "exellent condition" for less than $1500.  So in my opinion
>it seems like a reasonable but not bargain price, so a lot depends on
>the condition of the car.

'nuf said.


Donald Borowski    WA6OMI    Hewlett-Packard, Spokane Division
"Angels are able to fly because they take themselves so lightly."
                                       -G.K. Chesterton
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Junky Japanese cars? (Re: Production Delay)
From: jan@camhpp12.mdcbbs.com (Jan Vandenbrande)
Date: 25 Aug 92 10:14:04 PDT
Organization: M&E (Division of EDS), Cypress CA

In article <1992Aug24.173507.22897@uwm.edu> greis@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Gayla Ann Greis) writes:
>
>Could be. We are told very little in order to be able to sell what we have,
>before what we don't have comes in. Someone else equated Japanese style with
>quality, but I find that very hard to believe! The Jap cars since '90 seem
>to fall apart ridiculously fast. (I get to see them used on the used car
>lots.) Even and especially Toyota, which used to be quality and reliable
>seem to be junk. (If you're following up on this subject, change the
>subject header!!!)
>

Interesting!

However I must comment that when we looked at '92 GTI's (Hecho en Mexico)
the quality seemed a far cry from our US made 86 GTI. 
Little things like rattles and squeecks in the BRAND new car, chinsier (sp?)
feel of the controls, cheap stickers as labels (e.g. "unleaded..."
or "fasten..") that weren't even put un straight, trim croocked,
sunroof crank already tearing the headliner, etc.
Recall, this was a brand new, '92 GTI 16V, with only 42 miles...
Now, this is only a sample of 1 or 2, and may have little or nothing
to do with how the car holds up in the long term. 

In any case, we did not think the GTI was worth the amount they
were asking for and bought an SLC instead (felt a whole hell of alot
more solid).

Just my opinion (not to be confused with facts).


-- 
Jan

jan@camhpp12.mdcbbs.com		(work)
jan@lipari.usc.edu		(school, usually works, forwards)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: klinger@ccu.umanitoba.ca (Jorg Klinger)
Subject: Advice on Westphalia campers needed.
Organization: University of Manitoba, Winnipeg, Canada
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 17:43:05 GMT

  I'm interested in an older style camper, not the vanagon type.
I had a 74 superbeetle new and had no problems but only had it for 4
years. How does the camper stand up? I have heard that they overheat and
are subject to crosswinds? Would it be warm enough to drive in a
Canadian winter?  Thanks.
                                Jorg
From: ari@viipuri.nersc.gov (Ari Ollikainen)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Advice on Westphalia campers needed.
Date: 29 Aug 92 01:16:25 GMT
Organization: National Energy Research Supercomputer Center, Livermore CA

In article <1992Aug28.154155.4863@usenet.ins.cwru.edu> wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy) writes:
>
>BE CAREFUL WITH THESE BABIES!  If you find a bus that already has one,
>have it checked out by someone who knows about them.  Gas can make
>a really big boom-boom if it is not combusted properly!

Special attention MUST be paid to the condition of the fuel lines from 
the tank to the auxiliary heater AND, especially, the fuel line from the 
heater's fuel pump to its combustion chamber. If *this* fuel line leaks, the 
pump may not shut off for a while before gasoline is pooled under the 
auxiliary heater. Repeated attempts to start the heater will cause more 
gasoline to pool in the engine compartment...

This happened to me but I was lucky and investigated before burning/blowing
up my '73 Westfalia. 

If VW would just quit using textile reinforced rubber fuel lines which 
decay after 5 years, everything would be fine. EVERY VW I have owned 
has eventually had these textile covered fuel/vacuum lines deteriorate
in less than 5 years, causing replacement under warranty. Even my VW
6cyl Diesel engine powered Volvo suffered from detrioration of the 
fuel return lines... Apparently the rubber (and textile fibers) are 
susceptible to heat (DuuH!!). Gasahol (10% ethanol blend with gasoline)
was fingered as a culprit by VW. I asked the warranty adjuster who used 
this line to explain why the same thing happened on my VW Diesel 
powered Volvo?  That shut him up...:):)

The high pressure  steelbraided fuel hoses on my 16v Scirocco were a 
wonderful sight!!

Ari Ollikainen
(Still wondering why the fuel lines on my '85 Wetfalia all leaked and 
only one on my wife's '85 VanagonGL...?)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: ajwnet@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (andrew.j.west)
Subject: Old bus
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 20:33:22 GMT
Keywords: 64/rot

Found this and was wondering about the 
"frame is pretty rotted".... Anybody do
any of work like this? Is it possible or
forget it?

----------------------------------------------------------
1964 Deluxe Bus, 21 Window, 9 passenger, Sunroof.
Converted to 12v operation.  1969 1500cc motor built up to
1650cc with high capacity oil pump and screw on filter.
Frame is pretty rotted.  Body is "good".  ~160000 miles.
I am second owner.  $1000 OBO
----------------------------------------------------------

					Andrew J. West
					...!att!hlwpr!ajw
					a.west@att.com
					...201 564-2786
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: gjh@galen.med.Virginia.EDU (Galen J. Hekhuis)
Subject: Re: 12 Volt Conversion DONE!
Organization: University of Virginia Health Sciences Center
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 11:49:57 GMT

In article <1992Sep2.055405.1960@u.washington.edu> dali@milton.u.washington.edu (David A. Lee) writes:
}Actually the voltage regulator in a bug is atop the coil in the engine.

Really?  I've seen them mounted in a lot of places, can't remember that
one though...

--
       hang gliding mailing list: hang-gliding-request@virginia.edu 
     Galen Hekhuis  UVa Health Sci Ctr (804)982-1646 gjh@virginia.edu
           Remember, behind most silver linings is a cloud...
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: tomh@wes.on.ca (Tom Haapanen)
Subject: Re: Production Delay
Organization: Waterloo Engineering Software
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1992 20:48:28 GMT

greis@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Gayla Ann Greis) writes:
> Ummm, in case any of you haven't heard, the release of the 1993 A3 body cars
> has been officially delayed until January now.

I have to wonder ... I just got back from the VW event put on by VW Canada in
Toronto (good turnout, I think --- several hundred entrants and >1,000
spectators).  There were Mexican-built A3 Golfs all over the place!  All were
4-door CL models, but I must have seen at least 15-20 of them, both licensed
and unlicensed.

Could it be that this will be a repeat of 1990?  Back then, there were initial
teething problems in the 2.0L GTI 16V production, and it turned out that
the US market only got a handful of them, while it was a normal production
model in the smaller Canadian market.

Could it be that Canada will still get the Golf this fall but it'll be delayed
in the US?  Stay tuned for further developments...

[ \tom haapanen    "i don't even know what street canada is on" -- al capone ]
[ tomh@wes.on.ca                   "trust the programmer" -- ansi c standard ]
[ waterloo engineering software      "to thine own self be true" -- polonius ]
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu
Subject: Re: Intake manifold
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 00:02:24 GMT
Organization: University of Louisville

In article <1992Sep3.012732.22793@pony.Ingres.COM>, garrett@Ingres.COM (QUOTE OF THE YEAR) writes:
> 	I have a mechanical question about a 71' VW bug.
> There is a part, the best discription I can give is calling it a 
> rubber grommet, that is rotting out. 
> 	I know that this discription will be the same for air-cooled
> engines for at least two years before as well. 
> 	At the base of the carburator, there is a pipe that splits into a 
> T and runs across the front (as you are looking at it) of the engine.
> Each pipe then splits into two at the side of the engine, but before that
> there is a connection that needs a rubber seal. This seal is rotted
> and is allowing a vacuum leak. I've wrapped it with tape for the moment
> and even went to a junk yard to get a new grommet, but I can't see how
> I can replace it without removing the whole intake assembly, carburator
> and all.
> 	Does anyone know how to replace it without making this 
> a major project? Or is there a sutible substitute? 
> 	Can anyone understand this description?
> 
> -Garrett

Don't go to a junk yard, as the ones you find there will be in as bad or worse
shape as yours.  Anyway, I bought new manifold seals for my bus and bug for a
whopping $4.50 plus tax at my local vw place.  That was per pair for the
multi-colored BugPack ones, or $5.00 for the stock replacement ones.  

As for the replacement procedure, yes, you must remove the entire manifold to
place them all together.  You probably have to remove the generator to get
enough room.  My experience has been that the dual-port manifold assembly is a
bitch to put together (but I would never go to a single port one).  

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
|pH Fred == pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu    |         "What we lack         |
|        == ..!psuvax1!ulkyvx.bitnet!pgheit01 |   in enthusiasm, we make up   |
|           University of Louisville          |         for in apathy."       |
|                Louisville, KY               |                               |
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: jmm2948@zeus.tamu.edu (Jeffrey M. Mayzurk)
Subject: Re: Shocks and Exhaust on GTI
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: Texas A&M University
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 01:22:00 GMT

In article <1992Aug25.184645.12357@news.cs.brandeis.edu>, andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang) writes...
>I've also heard that the GTI exhaust manifold is really bad.  I would
>believe it just by looking at its design.  The trick with exhaust
>manifolds is making sure that the replacement is designed carefully
>enough to fit the car properly.  There's a lot of stuff that it needs
>to route through (roll bars, shifter, throttle linkage) as well as
>fitting the catalytic converter and the Lambda sensor.  I'm
>considering upgrading the manifold also, but I have a backlog of stuff
>to do.


You heard right... the 83-84 GTi manifold is just about as bad as you can
get.  It is also found on Sciroccos from '82, and is easily identified
by the single outlet and the clips that hold it to the downpipe.  If you
want to replace it, make a visit to your local salvage yard and pick up
any dual-outlet cast-iron manifold up to '81.  Don't worry about O2 sensor
fittings or anything.  Find one that isn't cracked and chances are that it
will be okay -- and can probably be had for less than $50.  When you get
home, call Techtonics and order the dual downpipe for the U.S. manifold, with
a fitting for the oxygen sensor.  They come in two basic varieties: short, to
allow for the catalytic converter, and long if emissions aren't a concern.
Either way, you're looking at approximately a 10% increase in power, with 
a corresponding increase of mid-range torque, on an otherwise stock vehicle.
A very big difference, one that you can definitely feel.  If you get the
short downpipe, your emissions are unaffected and the car remains perfectly
legal.   There are no clearance problems with swaybars, etc, and it should
be more durable than most headers.

In my opinion, it was the best thing that I ever did for my car.  Besides,
without changing the exhaust, any other modifications (cam, throttle body, etc)
won't be effective.  That manifold just suffocates the engine -- with proper
breathing, the big-valve 1.8 can produce plenty of torque, moving you quite
quickly.

--
Jeffrey M. Mayzurk

jmm2948@zeus.tamu.edu
From: wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Shocks for Bus - no KYB's?
Date: 25 Aug 92 19:53:24 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio, (USA)


Hey there all-
I've been following the thread on the GTI shock question.  Someone not
too terribly long ago recommended the KYB Gas-adjusts for REAR (though 
definitely not front) shocks on the microbus.  As I am just about ready
to make a purchase and do the work, I'd like to know if others can
support this rumor about KYB's not being well made.  If so, should I
go with the not-as-stiff stock Boge's or something else altogether?

Bill
-- 
William Claspy			Case Western Reserve University
Internet- wpc@po.cwru.edu
MaBellnet- (216) 368-3595
Xref: sparky rec.autos.vw:4904 rec.autos:20838
From: johnc@yuma.acns.colostate.edu (John Cooley)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw,rec.autos
Subject: Re: Info needed on VW EuroVan
Summary: 5 cylinders, I think
Keywords: Van...slow
Date: 27 Aug 92 15:39:47 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos
Distribution: usa
Organization: Colorado State University, Fort Collins, CO  80523

In article <1992Aug27.133357.7650@m.cs.uiuc.edu> ward@m.cs.uiuc.edu 
(Christ Ward) writes:

>whatever.  As to quality and reliablity who know's it's new.  At least
>the engine (VR6) has been out for a while in the Corrado, but most evrything
>else is new.  

VW has ads out now for the Eurovan.  The ads mention a "wide torque" 
FIVE (5) cylinder engine.  If they're actually building it with the
VR6 engine (the "narrow vee" with SIX (6) cylinders), than the ads 
must be incorrect, since the net is _always_ right ;-)!

         John Cooley
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: dali@milton.u.washington.edu (David A. Lee)
Subject: Re: Advice on Westphalia campers needed.
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 03:43:18 GMT

In article <41630001@hpfcdc.fc.hp.com> newlin@hpfcdc.fc.hp.com (Doug Newlin) writes:
>1. Make sure you get a '71 or earlier.  This was the last of the
>"upright" engines (as opposed to the pancake engines in which the 
>fan is laying flat on top of the engine).  Also, the '71 was the
>1971cc, dual port engine (I believe it was the biggest of the upright
>engines). The 1972 and later engines were real dogs.
>

Uhh, wrong!  The 1971 Type II had a 1600cc upright engine, like the
bug.  

And the later engines, type IV pancakes, are not dogs in any sense.  They
are more powerful, and the fan is connected directly to the crankshaft
rather than by a belt, so no engine fires due to a broken fan
belt, which the older busses were notorious for.

David Lee
1970 Squareback


Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: lytle@noao.edu (Dyer Lytle  CCS)
Subject: transporter restoration or customization?
Organization: National Optical Astronomy Observatories, Tucson, AZ, USA
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 16:20:39 GMT




Folks,

What sort of VW transporter restorations and/or customizations have any
of you done?  I would like to hear about them!

I recently bought a 72 camper (see the earlier thread about interior noise)
and, since the interior has already been mostly removed I am trying to
decide whether I should try to find a stock type interior at a junk yard
and just do some refinishing and upolstery work or whether I should just
do a custom job with lots of insulation, shag carpet, comfy chairs, etc.

I like the custom idea because I can put in things that I want and leave
out things I don't want.  However I'm afraid that the work might be
considerable and/or the cost prohibitive.  (I only spent $750 on the
vehicle and I don't want to spent too much more than that on the interior.)

So, what have you done, how much did it cost, was it a lot of work, what
features did you include, what features did you leave out, how well does
it work, etc, etc????

 Any information would be appreciated!

 -Dyer


-- 
Dyer Lytle, National Optical Astronomy Observatories, Tucson, AZ, 602-323-4136
Internet: lytle@noao.edu        SPAN: NOAO::LYTLE (NOAO=5355) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: doerre_g@mscf.med.upenn.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: is ABS std. on 91GTI16V?
Date: 31 Aug 92 21:56:01 GMT
Organization: Univ of Penn - Med School Computer Facility

hey, this will sound weird--

i recently got my '91 GTI 16V back, and i've been trying to lock it up--i mean
the brakes...

now i don't remember seeing ABS as std. eq. on the window sticker, but for the
life of me i swear i can't lock up the brakes even on a slick road...

my question is: are VW brakes really that good, or did i actually get a bonus
on my '91 GTI?  does anybody who has one know what the spec's are?  my manual
says nothing, of course...
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: clayb@county.lmt.mn.org (Clay Babcock)
Subject: Re: is ABS std. on 91GTI16V?
Organization: LaserMaster R&D, Minneapolis, MN  USA
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 20:11:27 GMT

In article <1992Aug31.165601.1@mscf.med.upenn.edu> doerre_g@mscf.med.upenn.edu writes:
>From: doerre_g@mscf.med.upenn.edu
>Subject: is ABS std. on 91GTI16V?
>Date: 31 Aug 92 21:56:01 GMT

>hey, this will sound weird--

>i recently got my '91 GTI 16V back, and i've been trying to lock it up--i mean
>the brakes...

>now i don't remember seeing ABS as std. eq. on the window sticker, but for the
>life of me i swear i can't lock up the brakes even on a slick road...

>my question is: are VW brakes really that good, or did i actually get a bonus
>on my '91 GTI?  does anybody who has one know what the spec's are?  my manual
>says nothing, of course...


Sounds like you have SERIOUS brake problems!

All VW's with ABS have a light on the dash that stays lit until
the ABS accumulator fully pressurizes.  If your car has ABS you
would have more than likely noticed this.

If you attempt to lock up a ABS equipped car on wet tarmac, the
wheels will 'chatter' as the ABS system cycles 10-15 times/second.

If you cannot lock your non-ABS car's brakes, your brakes ARE NOT GOOD.

Sounds to me like your brake lines need bleeding.


Clay Babcock

90 Corrado
83 Audi Turbo Quattro Coupe
From: montnaro@ausable.crd.ge.com (Skip Montanaro)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: How do I quiet my air-cooled VW engine?
Date: 2 Sep 92 14:59:56 GMT
Reply-To: montanaro@crd.ge.com (Skip Montanaro)
Distribution: rec
Organization: GE Corporate Research & Development, Schenectady, NY


Bob Rusk writes:

 > Actually, Skip stated in his original posting that the van is a '72.  Didn't
 > VW add the "official" overhead access hold to the van in '73?

The oldest van I owned was a '73. It had the access hole/cover. I wasn't
aware that the access cover was such a recent addition to VW vans. Perhaps
the owner can locate a later model at a junkyard and replace the homemade
hole/cover with one excised from a junker (properly welded in, of course.)

--
Skip (montanaro@crd.ge.com)
From: burden_d@oass.enet.dec.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: 84 GTi Transmission in 86 Body.
Date: 31 Aug 92 16:52:41 GMT
Reply-To: burden_d@oass.enet.dec.com ()
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation


My guess would be that it would fit, but I haven't tried it.  The
main difference is where the motor mounts attach.  In '84 you had
4 total with the two side mounts taking most of the weight while
the front and rear just provide support.  In '86 there are only
3 mounts with the driver's side tranny mount no longer used and the
front and rear are load bearing.

If you can get the '86 mounts on the '84 tranny, then it ought to
work just fine.

--
Dave Burden                                      ______--------___
Digital Equip Corp - Alpharetta, GA             /|             / |
                                     o___________|_\__________/__|
burden_d@oass.enet.dec.com          ]|___     |   |=  ||  =|___  |"
                                    //   \\   |   |___||_///   \\|"
                                    |  X  |\-------------/|  X  |\"
                                     \___/ 1924 Studebaker \___/
					Special 6 Touring Car
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mlin@oracle.uucp (Michael Lin)
Subject: Help:  Where can I find parts for a VW Golf?
Reply-To: mlin@oracle.uucp (Michael Lin)
Organization: Oracle Corporation, Belmont, CA
Distribution: ba
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 23:22:38 GMT
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by an unauthenticated user
              at Oracle Corporation.  The opinions expressed are those
              of the user and not necessarily those of Oracle.


I am looking to replace a number of miscellaneous parts from my
'86 VW Golf -- mostly trim & other plastic pieces.  Does anyone 
know of a good source for Golf, Jetta, or GTI parts?  I prefer
it to be used and inexpensive, i.e. a salvage yard.

Thanks for your help

Michael


Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw