HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: mborgerding@desire.wright.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Hyperglide sprocket replacement
Date: 29 Sep 92 23:59:21 GMT
Organization: Wright State University

In article <1992Sep27.031420.10955@dartvax.dartmouth.edu>, Gen.M.Kanai@dartmouth.edu (Gen M. Kanai) writes:
> In article <ahlwqA2HBh104h@contempt.brisnet.org.au>
> rob@contempt.brisnet.org.au (Rob Amos) writes:
> 
>> due to Killer Chain
>> Suck Crunchings) but am still on original rear cluster.  I have covered
>> approx 3,500 km on it.
>> 
>> What's the opinion on replacing it?  Should I buy a new one? 
> 
> What?!?!?!!?  Shimano and many others reccomend you change both
> freewheel and chain every year!  3500 km!  Crisp shifts?  No way with a
> freewheel with 3500 kms on it!
 My Shimano F-wheel is still giving good shifts after at least twice that
distance put on it.  I think that the manufacturers have a bit of an impartial
interest in how often u change your parts.  As long as your chain is in good
condition and you don't crunch the hell out of the freewheel, it should last
several thousand miles, not just kms.  Incidentally, there is a tool on the
market that tells you if your chain is getting too stretched.  You line on hole
up with a pin on the chain and there are four other holes on the other end of
the piece of metal, marked new,good, fair, replace.  Which ever hole fits on
another pin is the rating the chain gets.
    						Mark
Xref: sparky rec.bicycles.tech:932 rec.bicycles.marketplace:567
From: brucer@gold.gvg.tek.com (Bruce Rayner)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech,rec.bicycles.marketplace
Subject: Re: generator/battery lighting systems
Date: 2 Oct 92 17:05:05 GMT
Article-I.D.: gold.5352
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech
Organization: Grass Valley Group, Grass Valley, CA

>>In <BusCEx.39t@news.orst.edu> strongw@bionette.cgrb.orst.edu (Willard Strong) writes:
>>
>>
>>>Are there any electronic buffs out there who can help me figure out
>>>a simple circuitry for [recharging Gel-Cells for a bike light]
>>
>>You need a voltage regulator and a rectifier.  The voltage
>>should be regulated to something slightly below the
>>maximum charging voltage for your gel cell is.  Mine has


Assuming you're talking about recharging from an on bike generator -
the above response is a bit confusing.

Gel cells like to be charged at a constant voltage, 7.2v for a 3 cell
battery. Unfortunately, regulating an on bike generator will waste a
lot of power (You could probably put ALL your riding energy into 
charging batteries and get a good workout). So what we want is 
efficiency.  And a fast charge.  There are some very fancy computer
controlled chargers out there for battery powered vehicles, but this
would not be practical.

So, I'd do it manually. Only charge the battery when you know it's
been used.  Use a full wave diode rectifier and dump the full output
of the gen. into the battery. You'll need some switching here. I don't
think you could pedal far enough (or hard enough) to overcharge your
battery, but if you want to check charge level, look at the voltage
accross the battery under charge.  When it starts to rise above 7.2 v
(nom. 6v battery), assume it's charged. The standard bike gen puts
out very little power, compared to what a 6 - 10w lite would use, so
you'll do a lot of riding to make up for a short stint in the dark.

I'm basically against extra effort - that'ts why you buy a fancy bike,
right?  So why not charge this thing at home, or stick a solar array
(they sell 'em) on the bike. That would be light weight and more 
effective than the generator.  You could even build you're own solar
chargerr with a quick visit to Radio Shack. Probably simpler than
the generator set up.  This assumes you can leave your bike in the
sun, of course.

BR

C
The
From: steve@agropyron.forests (Steve)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Marzocchi Shocks (Was Re: khs,wheeler,raleig
Date: 28 Sep 92 19:19:28 GMT
Reply-To: steve@agropyron.forests
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.

Marzocchi shocks have one of the best designs on the market with the 
way they do their valving, wipers, etc. (I should qualify this as saying 
best relative to the more standard, oil-air shocks). They also do very
little to the geometry of the bike.    I have a couple 
problems with them:

- weight, at almost 4 lbs, the 300 weighs 70-100% as much as a decent
   aluminum or true-temper/tange/ritchey frameset (say dx-range frameset)
   the effect on handling  worries me.

- they're stiff (even at light settings) and so don't absorb small fast bumps
   too well like the manitous.

- did I mention weight?

As for the new 400's, i'm guessing there are pretty significant changes in
store since '92 300's can be easily had for around $200, if the 300 and 400
were the same I don't think this price would offered.  I wonder how much
of the great - non-flexibility of the 300 will be lost to a lightened 400?

My absolute favorite "typical" front shock is the specialized fs.

Non-typical, I really like the action tech among others.

The bike search goes on, frustration sets in - they're all the same except the
stickers and the tires. Am I actually going to buy a bike because of the color?

Well the GT's are different, but too short.

-steve
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tomk@netcom.com (Thomas H. Kunich)
Subject: Re: Since we are talking about pro equip
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1992 00:59:22 GMT

In article <1992Oct2.200454.26966@walter.bellcore.com> kenl@origami.cc.bellcore.com (Ken Lehner) writes:

>I'd be interested in hearing how you determined that it was the removal of the
>aero stuff that gained him 2 minutes.  Back-to-back TTs?  I doubt that he removed
>his aero bars.  Please don't insult me by claiming that they don't improve
>speed...

If you would read the posting instead of simply replying first, you would see
that I said that he removed the aero equipment. That includes the bars. Maybe
you ought to try riding in the SF bay area with tri-bars for awhile before
you say something like "I doubt that he removed his aero bars." Around here
you are either climbing or decending. Only Dorks ride on the flats here.

Going up hills the aero bars remove your best hand position. Descending
on the aero bars keeps your hands away from the brakes and in a bad
position to handle fast turns. People here generally don't like to ride with 
people that have aero bars because they invariably get on the bars in 
a pace line and are dangerous.

>Of course, the same zig would have the same effect without the aero equipment,
>so the advantage while not zigging (or lifting the head, as you said in an
>earlier post) is still gained.  One of us is not thinking clearly.

With the standard wheels you aren't paying $500 to gain virtually nothing.
Look, if you want to spend your life savings on aero equipment go right ahead.
Just don't expect me to believe that it makes any difference at the 20
mph speeds that most riders ride at.

>And perhaps I would have my doors blown off by the same kid even worse without
>the stuff.  Please make some sense.

Then why spend $500 per wheel for tri-spokes, $150 for the latest aero helmet
and $3500 for a custom bike with aero tubing -- none of which gives any
significant advantage.

McCarthy won the World's Pursuit title against the most aerodynamic bike
while riding essentially the same type of bike he would have ridden in
1980 -- add the tri-bars.

>I dunno.  Come out here and race against Russ Jones with his tri-geeky
>Kestrel (wearing running shoes) and 27mph+ TT speed.  Of course, that's his
>pace AFTER running, say 5K at 5:15/mile pace.  And he's 37.
>This, of course, is
>as relevant to the topic as your last statement above...

Let's see; you think it's relevant that some people are faster than
me. Hmmm, yeh, that sure is relevant. So why doesn't Russ Jones ride
in the European peloton and make $2 million/year like LeMond?
From: maarrrk@seidel.ucsb.edu (Mark Erickson)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: side by side tandem
Date: 3 Oct 92 18:34:12 GMT
Article-I.D.: seidel.maarrrk.718137252

From Webster's Seventh New Collegiate Dictionary:

_tandem_ (adv or adj): one after or behind another

_tandem_bicycle_ (n): a bicycle for two or more persons sitting tandem.

	So, by definition, a tandem cannot be side by side.
	
	--maarrrk

	(for the humor-challenged:  :+) :+) :+) )
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: morrison@tegra.com (Allan Morrison)
Subject: Re: Carry bike in a pickup truck
Organization: Tegra-Varityper, Inc. Billerica, MA
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 18:48:06 GMT


I also use the "tie down method in my toyota pickup and
have never lost a patient or even scratched a frame.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: corfmanr@gtephx.UUCP (Russ Corfman)
Subject: Re: Why no cantilevers on racing bikes?
Organization: AG Communication Systems, Phoenix, Arizona
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 21:31:37 GMT

In article <54488.2699210754@kiwi.gen.nz>, rabbi@kiwi.gen.nz (Rabbi Bajzheet) writes:
> pardo@cs.washington.edu (David Keppel) writes:
> : >rabbi@kiwi.gen.nz (Rabbi Bajzheet):
> : >> Why do racing bicycles never have cantilever brakes?

This is not true. Cyclo cross racing bikes and Mt. Bikes have
cantilever brakes. The only real technological reason why
is for mud clearance.

As for road racing bicycles (which I'm sure is what you meant)
there is absolutely no reason to use them. Cantilever brakes may
supply a bit more braking power but a good caliper brake will
supply more than adequate stopping.

Caliper brakes are much simpler to adjust than cantilever
brakes. This is most likely the most important reason. Centering
a caliper brake takes a couple of seconds with a cone wrench,
centering a cantilever is a pain in the ass, even with a third
hand. Getting the pads the correct distance from the rim is
also much easier with calipers.

Another thing that is much easier to do with caliper brakes as
opposed to cantilevers, wheel changes.

Ciao,
-- 
Russell Corfman
AG Communication Systems; Phoenix, AZ
UUCP: ...!{ncar!noao!enuucp | att}!gtephx!corfmanr
Internet: gtephx!corfmanr@enuucp.eas.asu.edu
(602) 581-4403
From: casseres@apple.com (David Casseres)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Cateye Micro average speed algorithm?
Date: 6 Oct 92 17:12:03 GMT
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech
Organization: Apple Computer Inc.

In article <1992Oct5.130013.29677@panix.com>, paul@panix.com (Paul Gatker)
wrote:
> 
> In <1992Oct5.043302.27416@cis.ohio-state.edu> goelz@skink.cis.ohio-state.edu (christopher k goelz) writes:
> 
> >>[anecdotes of weird behavior from Cateye Micro average speed numbers]
> >>
> 
> >On occasion I have noticed that the Cateye makes one of these unusual
> >fluctuations before I press the stop button.  In this case, the average
>               ^^^^^^
> 
>  Would this have anything to do with the Heisenberg uncertainty principle?

No, it's the thiotimoline-doped semiconductors.

--

David Casseres
Exclaimer: Wow!
From: evensen@husc8.harvard.edu (Erik Evensen)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Dealing with broken MTB derailleur
Date: 6 Oct 92 18:50:15 GMT
Article-I.D.: husc8.EVENSEN.92Oct6115015
Organization: Harvard Arts and Sciences Computer Services, Cambridge, MA
In-reply-to: r.g.olsen@att.com's message of 5 Oct 92 21:40:48 GMT

>>>>> On 5 Oct 92 21:40:48 GMT, r.g.olsen@att.com (Ron Olsen) said:
Ron> Relay-Version: VMS News - V6.0-3 14/03/90 VAX/VMS V5.5; site husc3.harvard.edu


Ron> Following tips I have read in several places, I removed
Ron> the derailleur and shortened the chain to attempt to convert
Ron> the bike into a one-speed.

Ron> The problem I have is this: I couldn't shorten the chain to the
Ron> exact length needed for an appropriate gear; it's either one
Ron> link too short or one link too long.  The wide spacing on
Ron> my 14-32 Hyperglide cassette undoubtedly contributes to this.
Ron> This causes the chain to skip wildly from one cog to another
Ron> while I pedal.  <edit>

Ron> Anyone have tips as to how to keep a shortened chain
Ron> on the proper cog when it's one link too long for that cog?

Ron> 	Ron Olsen
Ron> 	Boulder, Colorado
Ron> 	r.g.olsen@att.com

I did such a repair on my riding partner's bike a couple of weekends
ago (of course it had to happen while we were riding in pouring rain).
I think the trick is to have horizontal dropouts and to slide the
wheel forward or backward to put enough tension on the chain. Please
someone correct me if I'm wrong; in this particular case I wasn't able
to do that since my friend doesn't have a quick release rear wheel and
she didn't have a wrench to loosen / remove the rear wheel - this
situation will be remedied soon - at least I had a chain breaker with
me....

--Erik
From: casseres@apple.com (David Casseres)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: My first Century!!!
Date: 28 Sep 92 21:49:31 GMT
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech
Organization: Apple Computer Inc.

In article <1992Sep23.222942.7058@gtephx.UUCP>, corfmanr@gtephx.UUCP (Russ
Corfman) wrote:

> Also, I should point out that my cleats are red and they are fixed,
> not rotational. The color doesn't matter, the shape does. On second
> thought, maybe it does. I've never had knee problems riding with
> the red cleats. Then again, I never did with the black cleats either.

If you have red cleats and they are made by Look, they are rotational
cleats -- i.e. they rotate in the pedal, allowing your foot to rotate. 
With these cleats the exact adjustment of the cleat becomes largely
academic; as long as the ball of your foot is over the pedal spindle and
you can click in and out comfortably, the cleat is adjusted all it needs to
be.

--

David Casseres
Exclaimer: Wow!
From: khe@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Keith Erskine)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 16:27:31 GMT
Subject: Re: how to patch a tube--cheap
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech

In rec.bicycles.tech, jag@unislc.uucp (John Ganske) writes:

> khe@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Keith Erskine) writes:
> 
> 
> >Exsqueeze me, but patch kits *with* glue and 6-8 patches can be found
> >on sale for $1.  Every spring at the Super Sale I pick up 5-6 patch kits,
> >which is more than enough to last the year.  For a whopping 12 cents
> >a patch, I don't think it makes sense to use old innertubes instead of
> >patches.

> Different people have different criteria of what makes sense :).  I think
> it makes sense to use old innertubes to patch other innertubes from the
> consumption perspective - reducing consumption that is; recycling old
> things.  But if it dosn't work well, I'm all for using a patch kit (as
> I do now).  At least that's better than throwing away every tube that gets
> a puncture. 

Old inner tubes that have been patched too many times can be made into
a huge supply of rubber bands.  Of course, determining how many patches
is too many is subjective.  A friend pulled out an inner tube from his
tire the other day and it must have had 20-30 patches on it!!!! If your
friends make fun of you for having inner tubes that look like they have
a terminal case of orange measles, it's time to get a new inner tube :-).

Trying to reduce consumption by not buying patch kits is getting 
carried away with environmental guilt self flagellation, IMHO.  
If a person is so worried about the environment that a patch kit
is inexcusable waste, they had better not own an automobile or
use *any* electricity, water, or heating in their house.  
For that matter, if a person is down to sweating patch kits, the
only truly environmentally responsible alternative is suicide,
since overpopulation is the root cause of our environmental crisis.

Keith Erskine
From: Gen.M.Kanai@dartmouth.edu (Gen M. Kanai)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Cantilever Technology
Date: 27 Sep 92 03:16:51 GMT
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH
X-Posted-From: InterNews1.0a5@newshost.dartmouth.edu

many companies use the "Scott Self-Energizing Brakes" on tandems just
to show how powerful they are.  They are almost too much for a normal
bike...
From: greg@organia.sce.carleton.ca (Greg Franks)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Radial vs. crossed spoke lacing
Date: 25 Sep 92 20:33:47 GMT
Article-I.D.: organia.GREG.92Sep25153347
Distribution: rec
Organization: Systems and Computer Engineering, Carleton University.

In article <PATRICK.92Sep25102854@casbs.Stanford.EDU> patrick@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Goebel) writes:

   From: patrick@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Goebel)
   ...
   This anecdote leads to a few more general questions:

   (1) For a given number of spokes, is a radial or crossed lacing
   pattern stronger in terms of breaking spokes?

   (2) For a given number of spokes, is a radial or crossed lacing
   pattern stronger in terms of the wheel slowly going out of true?

   (3) Is it generally easier to true a radially-laced wheel than a
   cross-laced one?

   (4) Which is easier to build from scratch: radial or crossed?

   (5) Which gives a more comfortable ride:  radial or crossed?

   (6) At one point the hub flange of the wheel described above actually
   broke at one of the spoke holes.  (Needless to say, there was not much
   I could do on the rode to repair it, and had to wobble the remaining
   35 miles home...).  My riding partners suggested that the
   radial-lacing pattern puts more strain on the hub flange since each
   spoke exerts a greater force on the flange.  Is there anything to this
   hypothesis?  Or did I just have a faulty hub?

   Many thanks for your insight!

See "The Bicycle Wheel" by Jobst Brandt for complete answers...
Briefly:
1) No.
2) No.
3) No.
4) Radial because you don't have to thread the spokes.
5) the same.
6) Radial spoking is *not recommended* for most hubs due the the
   failure that you observed.  If you look at a hub which is cross-3,
   you will note that there is a lot more metal in the direction
   supporting the spoke than for a wheel which has been radially
   laced. 

Hope this helps. 

From beautiful Ottawa, Ontario Canada,
17 weekends of rain and still going!
  ..greg
--
Greg Franks, (613) 788-5726               | "The reason that God was able to
Systems Engineering, Carleton University, | create the world in seven days is
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada  K1S 5B6.         | that he didn't have to worry about 
greg@sce.carleton.ca  ...!cunews!sce!greg | the installed base" -- Enzo Torresi
Xref: sparky rec.bicycles.tech:876 rec.bicycles.marketplace:535
From: king@reasoning.com (Dick King)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech,rec.bicycles.marketplace
Subject: Re: generator/battery lighting systems
Date: 30 Sep 92 20:28:17 GMT
Organization: Reasoning Systems, Inc., Palo Alto, CA

In article <1992Sep18.231409.15491@Happy-Man.com> Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com writes:
>In <BusCEx.39t@news.orst.edu> strongw@bionette.cgrb.orst.edu (Willard Strong) writes:
>
>
>>Are there any electronic buffs out there who can help me figure out
>>a simple circuitry for [recharging Gel-Cells for a bike light]
>
>You need a voltage regulator and a rectifier.  The voltage
>should be regulated to something slightly below the
>maximum charging voltage for your gel cell is.  Mine has
>this info printed on the side of the battery, but it's a
>12v and dividing by 2 might not get exactly the right
>answer for a 6v.  A full-wave rectifier will give you the
>highest efficiency, but an in-line diode would be smaller
>and lighter.

BEWARE!!!

Most bike generators use the bike as one of the wires*.

If your bike light does the same, you will not be able to use a fullwave bridge
bacause the AC and DC cannot share a ground.

Halfwave rectification still works.

-dk


* This used to be true.  Is it still true, now that carbon composite frames are
  out?  

  I can't imagine someone slapping a tire-rubbing generator on a $2000 Kestrel,
  but y'never know...
From: paul@panix.com (Paul Gatker)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: how to patch a tube--cheap
Date: 3 Oct 92 01:13:11 GMT
Organization: PANIX Public Access Unix, NYC


 I'm planning to build a custom made inner tube kit and need suggestions for
a source of container that will cost me between $0.00 -- $0.05. BTW, $0.05 is
the max I'm willing to spend on the container so no elitist suggestions please.

 The container has to seal well so the rubber cement I put in it doesn't dry
out like the glue in every patch kit I bought in the last 2 years.

 The container must be small enough to fit in my Nashbar under-the-seat $5.00
saddle bag along with my spare tube, patches, _tyre_ irons, $15.00 cash, and
blue cross card.

 Thanks!

-- 
*******************************************************************
paul@panix.com                                    COMPULITE GRAPHICS
Brooklyn NY usa                                Design & Consultation
********************************************************************
From: ehouse@Apple.COM (Eric House)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Leverless quick-release
Date: 2 Oct 92 16:39:16 GMT
Organization: Apple Computer Inc., Cupertino, CA

In article <1992Oct1.220351.20706@beaver.cs.washington.edu> pardo@cs.washington.edu (David Keppel) writes:
>>[Info on locking QR's?]
>
>Some hubs -- Bullseye and Phil Wood -- can be had with Allen-head bolts
>that serve about the same as a nutted axle.  However they weigh less
>than a standard QR and the wrench you carry is small.  The disadvantage
>of Allen-head bolts compared to the Allen-head QR somebody mentioned is
>that you have to undo both sides, but the time difference should be
>small.

Much as I like my Bullseye hubs, I wouldn't recommend them to someone who
intended to use the axle bolts.  The design isn't very good, and will piss
you off in direct proportion to the number of times you remove your wheel.

Which makes me realize that I ought to qualify my non-recommendation.  If
you're touring and want bolts rather than a QR to save weight or discourage
thieves, and will therefore only be removing the wheel to fix flats, the
Bullseyes would be great.  But if you're like me and change wheels all the
time depending on the weather and what kind of ride you're doing that day,
and *still* want end bolts for some reason, get the Phils.
-- 
****************************************************************************
Eric House			"My employer doesn't share its opinions with
"Quayle in '94"		   	 me, so I can share only mine with you"
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: jlee@leland.Stanford.EDU (Joseph Chee-Yoon Lee)
Subject: With help front hub 
Keywords: help, hub 
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 92 23:32:43 GMT

My front hub is 500LX.  Recently, the dust shield on one side came loose.  I
first tapped it in gently.  Not good enough.  Then I banged it in till it was
pretty much in as much as it was originally.  But, after just a few minutes
of riding, it has come loose yet again.  How do I get the sucker to stay in?
I've considered bending the dust shield so that it hugs the hub more tightly.
If this is right, then should I make the shield a little bigger, or a little
smaller?

Thanks for any help.

Joe