HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: rim@csadfa.cs.adfa.oz.au (Bob McKay)
Subject: Re: what to do with walnuts
Organization: Australian Defence Force Academy, Canberra, Australia
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 00:48:47 GMT

>  ......  I also
>have a walnut tree in our paddock, then 147 trees in our other two
>pastures (8 acres)!  So, we have to harvest every November and I try
>to get up-every-nut, and during that time keep our donkey, pony and
>horse penned up.

Am I ever glad I saw this post - I've just planted two walnuts and two pecans
in the paddock where I normally keep our donkeys and milch cow. Walnuts aren't
terribly common in the bush here, so I suppose it's just not part of our 
folklore that there can be problems. I guess I'll just have to either keep the
donkeys out of that paddock come nut time, or else move the trees. But it leaves
me with a few questions:
.how bad are they - ie will the donkeys kick the bucket if they eat one nut, or
just if they binge??
.are pecans a problem too?
.are there any other fruit/nut trees I should worry about (I'm thinking in 
particular of green almonds, which are pretty poisonous, but I had assumed 
that they were also sufficiently off-putting not to be a problem - should I
worry)
.are walnuts dangerous for cattle as well, or just for equines?
.I'm aware that pigs and walnuts go well together, but does anyone know how
reliable pigs are as nut-pickers-up, ie if I got a pig to put in the paddock
for the couple of weeks the nuts were falling, would it clean them all up to
the extent that I could put the donkeys back in without worrying, or would I
need to search them out myself?

-- 
Bob McKay		   Phone:	+61 6 268 8169	    fax: +61 6 268 8581
Dept. Computer Science		Internet:	rim@csadfa.cs.adfa.oz.au
ADFA, Northcott Dve 		UUCP:...!uunet!munnari!csadfa.cs.adfa.oz.au!rim
Campbell ACT 2600 AUSTRALIA	ARPA:	rim%csadfa.cs.adfa.oz.au@uunet.uu.net
From: gnd@idaho.amdahl.com (Greg Darnell)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Re: Fiberglass Fencing Info
Date: 30 Jul 92 18:51:11 GMT
Organization: Amdahl Corp., Rexburg, ID

In article <1992Jul30.162157.26618@news.iastate.edu>, mpleis@iastate.edu (Cowboy) writes:
> On our Dairy we have using PVC fencing for about 6months.  It has the same 
> features for the firberglass includding.
> Square rails
> will never get discolored
> stronger
> lifetime warranty
> 
Some other PVC fencing features:
  can look incredibly nice
  costs at least twice as much as any other alternative I looked at
  forms nice sharp spikes on broken ends
  brittle in very cold weather

Other hi-tech alternatives to PVC and fiberglas for good livestock fencing
are Tensar plastic mesh and Centaur HTP polymer with embedded steel wires.
I won't make any recommendations because I haven't found the ideal 
reasonably priced, low maintenance, nice looking, safe fence yet out of
any of the above.

Greg
-- 
 Greg Darnell    Amdahl Corporation    143 N. 2 E., Rexburg, Idaho 83440
  UUCP:{ames,decwrl,sun,uunet}!amdahl!tetons!gnd          (208) 356-8915
  INTERNET: gnd@idaho.amdahl.com
Newsgroups: misc.rural
From: CBURNS@ucs.indiana.edu (Chris Burns)
Subject: What to do with old barn?
Followup-To: misc.rural
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 92 16:23:50 GMT

Howdy,

A friend of mine has some old barns on his property.  They're the kind that
have a frame that's constructed without nails.  He's interested in either
converting them into something he can use, or maybe selling them.  Anyone
out there know anything about this kind of thing?

If there's another newsgroup that I should post to, please let me know.


Thanks


Chris
From: agnew@gems.vcu.edu
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: RE: Green ponds and mutant slime
Date: 28 Jul 92 08:27:52 -0400
Organization: Medical College of Virginia

Dear Netters, in response to green slimy ponds, one time my dad got
some Israeli Carp to clean up our ponds.  They did quite a job on it, too.
This was more of the "seaweed" type scum, not the "mutant green slime"
type, but it may be worth looking into.

Jim
         /^^^\   \ /   Jim Agnew         AGNEW@RUBY.VCU.EDU  (Internet)
        /      >  ||   Neurosurgery,     AGNEW@VCUVAX        (Bitnet)
   /\_/     '   \  /   MCV-VCU           This tape will self destruct in
 /________________>    Richmond, Va      five seconds.  Good luck, Jim..."
Newsgroups: misc.rural
From: enenkel@cs.toronto.edu (Robert Frederick Enenkel)
Subject: Re: advise need on painting fence
Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of Toronto
Date: 28 Jul 92 23:37:57 GMT

GC.SUL@forsythe.stanford.edu (Sullivan) writes:

>Help, the time has hopefully come to paint or stain out 2,000 ft
>four rail wood fence.  I need suggestions om wether or not to use a
>farm and barn pain that is supposed to resist peeling, or a good
>quality solid color stain.  Any ideas out there?

How about using creosote?  I painted a (albeit small) wood fence with
it and it isn't rotting at all after a couple of years.  The wood also
emits a pleasant smell when it bakes in the sun.  Reminds me of the
railway yards I used to play in when I was a kid...  Robert Enenkel
Newsgroups: misc.rural
From: hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: What to do with old barn?
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 92 07:49:45 GMT

enenkel@cs.toronto.edu (Robert Frederick Enenkel) writes:
: 
: [Re: what to do with old barns]
: 
: >1. Very often the beams are of chestnut, a wood no longer available...
: >2. Some people turn them into houses.
: >3. Some people flip them inside out and turn them into house interiors.
: >4. Some people sell them, disassembled and keyed for reconstruction...
: >5. Some just let them rot.  I think this is the most popular option.
: 
: 6. Use them as barns!     
: 
7. If (and ONLY if) they are in VERY bad shape, and not usable for anything 
   else, then consider donating it to your local Volunteer Fire Department.
   Barn fires are very good training, and you really want your locals to have
   some experience in them in case your REAL barn goes.

   It breaks my heart to see a barn go up in flame for any reason, but if it
   is not a viable building, then it beats just bulldozing it.  We had a barn
   'practice' fire about 2 weeks ago.  It's amazing how fast 100 year old wood
   burns.  (I thought it was OAK, must be a regional thing....what does chestnut
   look like, anyways?)   
--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
hinz@picard.med.ge.com


Newsgroups: misc.rural
From: knightf@infonode.ingr.com (Frank Knight)
Subject: Re: Old Barn in exurban area
Organization: Intergraph Corporation, Huntsville, AL.
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1992 15:49:32 GMT

In article <1992Jul31.080432.23435@usenet.ins.cwru.edu> bm010@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (J. A. Stewart) writes:
>
>Anybody out there have any experience with the possible harm
>done by applying paint or other protective coating to a
>80-90-year-old carriage barn that has naturally-weathered
>siding?
>
>It hasn't been painted in 20-30 years, but the local town
>idiots have decided it should now be painted. We plan to fight
>them, but we need some ammunition.
>
>Can anyone offer any helpful info.
>
>Thanx.
>-- 

Yea, it's probably gonna peel in a few years if they paint it, why
don't they spray it with a clear natural wood protectant?  Once it
peels, it requires high pressure water treatment for a repaint,
and tends to be a cycle.

Frank
Newsgroups: misc.rural
From: enenkel@cs.toronto.edu (Robert Frederick Enenkel)
Subject: Re: Info request: hydraulic ram water pumps
Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of Toronto
Date: 24 Jul 92 19:33:18 GMT

mrb@earth.wustl.edu (Mike Bray) writes:

>I'm looking for information on hydraulic ram pumps. 

This reminds me of a little story I heard a while back.  The engineering
department of a university was puzzled by a strange letter requesting
information, which apparently had been translated from some foreign
language.  As it seemed more appropriate for the vetrinary department,
they forwarded the request there, thinking it might have been misdirected.
It was only when they got the request back again, with the remark that it
did not make sense, that they realised what had happened.  "Hydraulic ram"
had been translated into English as "male water sheep"...

Robert Enenkel
From: szurek@vms.cis.pitt.edu (Joe R Szurek)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Need advice - PC's and the small farm
Date: 30 Jul 92 17:37:29 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Pittsburgh
Originator: szurek@unix.cis.pitt.edu

I've been approached concerning helping to organize a users group for some
local small farmers who own PC's but have not been able to come up with any
significant uses.  Can anyone comment on anything "specific", such as
software or a particular application.  

Generically speaking, anyone can use word processing for correspondence, a
spreadsheet for a simple budget or inventory (feed, equipment service, etc.)
or a tax program.  But is anyone using any software designed specifically
for farm records, or have you developed any spreadsheet format of your own
taht is particularly useful?

Response by email is preferred, but I'll check here for postings.  Thanks.
Newsgroups: misc.rural
From: enenkel@cs.toronto.edu (Robert Frederick Enenkel)
Subject: Re: Green ponds (and other slimy things)
Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of Toronto
Date: 27 Jul 92 17:46:47 GMT

JamesWhite@vnet.ibm.com writes:

>[pond with thick algae scum]

>My problem
>seems to be just too much phosphates and nitrogen in the water.  This problem
>happened before I moved in when some heavy rains washed soil into the pond from
>some horse trails.
>
>Being that it is a small pond I have taken it upon myself to clean up the pond
>by pulling the green floating stuff out, and shoveling out the black silt layer
>exposed when the water receeds.

It won't work.  The algae will just grow back unless you stop the manure runoff
from entering your pond.  If it is just surface runoff, you might try a low
wall of some sort around the pond.  If it is contaminated groundwater, you 
have a problem that probably cannot be easily solved.

On the other hand, carp culturists in the Phillipines and Malaysia purposely
fertilise their ponds, either with pig barn runoff or by raising ducks on
the pond surface, to encourage the growth of algae which provides food for
the carp.  So, provided you don't mind not being able to see your fish, you
may be able to turn the situation to your advantage.  (You may need to aerate
the pond though).

Robert Enenkel
Newsgroups: misc.rural
From: bill@chaos.cs.umn.edu (Hari Seldon)
Subject: Re: Sheep?
Organization: University of Minnesota
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 01:19:39 GMT

In <1992Jul23.142236.16667@schbbs.mot.com> RXTL20@WACCVM.corp.mot.com writes:

>Goats eat thistles!!!!!
>They also destroy fences. They even manage to mess up electric fences.
>Caveat emptor
hmmm i though these were faq's:
goats eat most anything
goats cn not be kept anywhere (guaranteed) unless dead :-)
goats make good stew :-P

>STICKS
bill pociengel
--
bill@chaos.cs.umn.edu
From: randyh@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM ( randy haverkamp )
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 14:46:14 GMT
Subject: Re: Re: Dream horses?
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA
Newsgroups: misc.rural

Exactly where are you building your house? Is it in the area of Drake (10 miles
west of Loveland), Glenn Haven (15 miles west of Loveland), Estes Park (25 miles
west of Loveland and elevation 7,500 ft.), or one of the other small settlements
in the Big Thompson Canyon. I have lived about 5 miles west of Loveland for
about 15 years and own several horses of my own. I have never seen a wild 
horse in this area, but there are a lot of mountain lions (1 in my front yard
two years ago), bears, mountain sheep, white tail deer, mule deer and a few
elk. There are also a large number of domestic horses as a lot of the 
people who live in the area own 1 or 2 saddle horses.


Newsgroups: misc.rural
From: RXTL20@WACCVM.corp.mot.com
Subject: Re: Sheep?
Organization: Motorola Inc.
Date: 23 Jul 1992 07:06:20 MST

------------------------- Original Article -------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.rural
From: hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Sheep?
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 92 07:52:11 GMT

I am lending some pasture space to a neighbor of mine, as I wanted it cleared
(currently it is unoccupied) and he wanted to feed his sheep.  My question is
this:  How good is sheep 'manure' for gardening, etc?  Is it worth the effort,
or should it just stay in the pasture.

Also, there are a lot of thistles in there, which he says they probably won't
eat.  Will they eat them if I cut them down & they dry out?

As he and I are both on the fire department, we had decided that whatever the
sheep don't eat we will burn on a drill-night, just for the exercise.  (pasture,
not sheep.)

Can anyone suggest low-maintainence, moderate-yeild critters to keep who would
not take more than an acre or two of pasture?  What and how many?  Thanks.



--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
hinz@picard.med.ge.com

Goats eat thistles!!!!!
They also destroy fences. They even manage to mess up electric fences.
Caveat emptor

STICKS
Newsgroups: misc.rural
From: bhickle@tcs.com (Bob Hickle)
Subject: Re: Info request: hydraulic ram water pumps
Organization: Teknekron Communications, Inc
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 16:16:36 GMT

In article <1992Jul23.053332.23988@wuecl.wustl.edu>, mrb@earth.wustl.edu (Mike Bray) writes:
|> I'm looking for information on hydraulic ram pumps....

By sheer coincidence, I recently saw a short article on hydraulic
ram pumps in "BackHome" magazine.  I believe it was in the current
issue which is Summer 1992.  The article described the basic
principles behind ram pumps and how to figure out how high the
water source must be for a given horizontal run and vertical lift.

Back issues can be obtained (for $4.50, I think) by writing to:

BackHome
P.O. Box 370
Mountain Home, NC  28758

Hope this helps.

--------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Hickle				(510)-649-3588
Teknekron Communications Systems	Internet: bhickle@tcs.com
2121 Allston Way, Berkeley, CA 94704	uucp	: uunet!tcs!bhickle
Newsgroups: misc.rural
From: bill@chaos.cs.umn.edu (Hari Seldon)
Subject: Re: questions on reel mowers
Organization: University of Minnesota
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 04:50:03 GMT

In <freshair.711204691@pv0c03.vincent.iastate.edu> freshair@iastate.edu (James W Gregory) writes:

>My questions are:

>C)  Does anyone make a reel-type mower with a cutting height of 3" or
>    more?  If not, why not?
because it requires work and time. and most people care not to expend either.

>E-mail or post replies.  Thanx.
consider it done ;^>

bill pociengel
--
bill@chaos.cs.umn.edu
Newsgroups: misc.rural
From: lpj@col.hp.com (Laura Johnson)
Subject: Re: dream situation
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 21:47:51 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division

I said "of course one woodstove won't heat 6000 sq.ft."

And bill@chaos.cs.umn.edu (Hari Seldon) writes:
> 
> ok enough is enough. a wood stove can heat every bit as much as any. any. any
> other type of heater (size it correctly) wood heat is not a playfull thing.
> it is a serious heating method to some of us. also i'd avoid electric heat,
> for backup a long way from anywhere you'll want something which can survive
> with a minimal amount of electricity, maybe even battery power. 
> 

Hey, I KNOW it's a serious heating method, but are you aware that
6000 sq.ft.  is two to four times the size of a "normal" house?
(And ten times the size of the cabin that the original poster is
*actually* considering.) Look, you WOULDN'T heat that much area
with one woodstove; you wouldn't even heat it with one gas furnace
(you'd have two).  "Size it correctly" only goes so far.  

I agree with you about the electric backup if you're a long way from 
anywhere. The original poster said "subdivision", so I was thinking of
one of those little bitty mountain towns. I've lived in such towns and had
less problem with electricity than I've had in cities. If the area she's
looking at is really away from it all, then electric probably isn't the
answer.

-Laura.
-- 
lpj@hpctdls.col.hp.com
Opinions expressed are my own, but may be licensed for a nominal fee.
From: hughes@dogwood.botany.uga.edu (Wayne Hughes)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Re: Green ponds (and other slimy things)
Date: 28 Jul 92 04:21:58 GMT
Organization: Botany Department - U of Georgia, Athens

In article <1992Jul27.200159.13459@rchland.ibm.com> JamesWhite@vnet.ibm.com writes:
>I should have been a little clearer on the point of contamination of the pond.  I
>believe that for the most part the erosion problem has been solved.  The springs
>that feed the pond seem to be clean, and the stream that also feeds it runs
>though a good natural cleaning process before the water enters my pond.  The pond
>does not flow out unless it gets too full.
> 
>So, my premise is that I am removing the contaminates orders of magnitude faster
>than they are coming in.
>
>-- 
   (push return after every 75 characters or so, please)

   Since your pond is spring-fed, why not remove the water at a slow rate
   (using a pump, probably) and irrigate a new garden with the high
   nitrogen/phosphate water?  The constant replenishment from the springs 
   will dilute remaining nutrients.  Sludge at the bottom will only
   slowly give rise to new nutrient problems, and irrigation can be
   used as needed to correct the problem as it arises.

   It's essentially what you're doing now, but without all the work and
   also has the advantage that you're not disturbing the pond excessively
   through mechanical means.
   
   Wayne
Newsgroups: misc.rural
From: james@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (James White)
Subject: Re: Green ponds (and other slimy things)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 20:01:59 GMT
Reply-To: JamesWhite@vnet.ibm.com
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM Rochester

I should have been a little clearer on the point of contamination of the pond.  I
believe that for the most part the erosion problem has been solved.  The springs
that feed the pond seem to be clean, and the stream that also feeds it runs
though a good natural cleaning process before the water enters my pond.  The pond
does not flow out unless it gets too full.
 
So, my premise is that I am removing the contaminates orders of magnitude faster
than they are coming in.

-- 

James White 
Newsgroups: misc.rural
From: broy@vaxa.weeg.uiowa.edu (Barbara Roy)
Subject: Need Info on Walnut Harvesting
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: University of Iowa, Iowa City, IA, USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 14:44:00 GMT

I have a walnut tree in my horse paddock and, since they are toxic to horses,
must collect the nuts as they drop. Since I have to go to all this trouble 
anyway, can anyone suggest the proper way to store them? I don't know whether I
need to husk them first, whether they have temperature requirements, etc. Any
assistance is appreciated. I haven't the faintest idea what type of walnut
tree this is - do all walnuts taste okay?

Barbara Roy, Weeg Computing Center, University of Iowa, Iowa City, IA. 52242
Internet: broy@vaxa.weeg.uiowa.edu     Bitnet: broyva@uiamvs
Disclaimer: My opinions are solely my own and may change daily.
Newsgroups: misc.rural
From: knightf@infonode.ingr.com (Frank Knight)
Subject: Re: advise need on painting fence
Organization: Intergraph Corporation, Huntsville, AL.
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 20:34:03 GMT

In article <1992Jul28.214729.14713@morrow.stanford.edu> GC.SUL@forsythe.stanford.edu (Sullivan) writes:
>Help, the time has hopefully come to paint or stain out 2,000 ft
>four rail wood fence.  I need suggestions om wether or not to use a
>farm and barn pain that is supposed to resist peeling, or a good
>quality solid color stain.  Any ideas out there?

Yea, Recommend stain without too much pigment.  These kind will not
peel, can be resprayed and will also spray with a garden type sprayer.
Use one with a wood protectant base and add some additional mildewcide
if you want.  Those 'stains" that look like paint can/have/will peel!
Dark colors look good and last.

Frank

Newsgroups: misc.rural
From: james@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (James White)
Subject: Green ponds (and other slimy things)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 11:45:20 GMT
Reply-To: JamesWhite@vnet.ibm.com
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM Rochester


I have a small deep pond on my five acre property.  The pond is about 110 feet in
diameter, and now probably 20 - 25 feet deep.  I think there is water in the
pond, but you can't tell by looking at it.  It has a think green scum over it.

Now I know that scummy ponds have been discussed before, and some wonderful
solutions have been brought out. (ie: purple dyes, algicides, etc)  My problem
seems to be just too much phosphates and nitrogen in the water.  This problem
happened before I moved in when some heavy rains washed soil into the pond from
some horse trails.

Being that it is a small pond I have taken it upon myself to clean up the pond by
pulling the green floating stuff out, and shoveling out the black silt layer
exposed when the water receeds.

My wife laughs to see me doing this much work.  So my question is, does the
collective intelligence here think that I will succeed, or will I just be setting
myself up for long term back problems. 
 
Thanks.

-- 

James White
From: langston@langston.cs.utk.edu (Mike Langston)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Re: Weedeater recommendations
Date: 28 Jul 92 18:11:01 GMT
Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of Tennessee
Distribution: usa
Reply-To: langston@langston.cs.utk.edu (Mike Langston)
NNTP-Posting-Host: langston.cs.utk.edu

grover mccoury asks:

> I am seeking recommendations for good, reliable *gas-powered*
> Weedeaters.  A friend of mine suggested Poulan brand. Anybody
> have any other suggestions?

a couple of thoughts

1) make sure the nominal manufacturer is the real manufacturer

a coupla years back, my father-in-law decided to buy me the best
gas-powered string trimmer he thought he could find, and chose
lawn-boy because of their mower reputation

a very bad choice -- the thing failed after two weeks, and no
one at the dozen or so repair places i called would even touch
a lawn-boy trimmer -- turns out that lawn-boy trimmers are made
by some outfit called ryan, not by lawn-boy

2) don't buy a brand X trimmer just because you have a swell
   brand X something else

when i purchased a replacement, i made sure the name matched
the manufacturer -- many years of faithful service from my
stihl chainsaw induced me to check out stihl trimmers, and
sure enough only their big models were made by stihl (their
small models were made by someone else)!

not smelling a rat, and needing a big model anyway, i bought a
big stihl -- even after my dealer (and i) tinkered for hours,
i am still unhappy with its carburetion -- my dealer says that
stihl's trimmers are the best and that they just goofed on their
carbs -- but look, they've made good carbs for their saws for
years -- i think stihl has simply used its chainsaw reputation to
build and market a slightly-less-than-absolutely-top-of-the-line
trimmer myself

part of it may be that i'm so spoiled by the reliability of my
stihl saw (sob, they've stopped making the 028) that i'm too
quick to notice flaws in their string trimmers :)

i have heard but cannot confirm that shindawa makes a good
trimmer -- perhaps another reader can comment on that

-- mike