HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (Gary Preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: A Grizzly Tale, or Some Assembly Reqd
Date: 22 Jul 92 20:51:41 GMT
Organization: LLNL

In article <1992Jul19.054315.8648@usenet.ins.cwru.edu>, an625@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Kryl Logan) writes:

> I don't see anywhere in this posting where you gave Grizzly a chance to
> resolve your problems.

Perhaps you mistook what's happening here. What you are seeing is Grizzly in
the act.  They have a chance, and I'll publish anything they do.


> Alcohol consumption has no place in any workshop.

Let's not be too pompous here.  Allow me some poetic license
and assume that I'm really smart enough to figure this out.

>They have a warning in my assembly manuals about this
> very ..

My brother, a laywer, states:  A hazard that is reasonably forseeable
at the time of manufacture or sale that occurs during the normal
operation of the product creates a actionable tort if the purchaser is
injured.  The responsibility of the manufacturer or the seller is
absolute, whether they said "we told you so" or not.  Would you like
to be Mr. Grizzly facing a lawsuit for severed finger tendons?  Or, worse
yet, would you like you or a relative to be the one with severed
finger tendons.

Also, you should check your manuals.  The edges referred to are edges
on the base stampings, not the wheel covers.

> 
> IMO what you consider to be humor is somewhat disrespectful and
> certainly very sarcastic and also certainly unjustly damaging a
> companies reputation.Give them a chance.They just might surprise you.
> 
> Kryl

Well, they are getting a chance, verily in  front of your amazed and
admiring eyes.  Why don't you give me a chance.  This thing isn't over
yet.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: rdc@world.std.com (Ralph D Clifford)
Subject: Re: clock movements: where do I find them???
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 16:05:24 GMT

In article <1992Jul21.165609.4140@kodak.kodak.com> kroth@sunshine.Kodak.COM (David Kroth) writes:
>
>
>I was at a recent artsy-fartsy show here in Rochester and several
>of the dealers had some interesting clocks for sale.  The clocks
>I am interested in consisted of interesting woodwork with a clock
>dial/face/movement inserted in them.  The clock units reminded me
>of watch movements or travel alarm clocks.  I would like to get
>ahold of some of them and insert them in my own "works of art".
>
>Dave Kroth
>kroth@acadia.kodak.com

Dave,

     A company called Klockit might be able to help you.  1-800-556-2548

Ralph Clifford

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: rhoover@watson.ibm.com (Roger Hoover)
Subject: Re: Dust Collectors ???
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 14:12:01 GMT
Distribution: na
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center

In article <28JUL199208134790@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov>, afmartp@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov (PETE MARTIN) writes:
|> What kind of collectors do the netters own?  Any comments?  I don't have 
|> a current copy of the FAQ if there is any pertinent info it.
|> Thanks.

I have the 2hp UFO-101 model.  This is the made in Taiwan machine that lots of
places sell (Lobo, Jet, etc). I got mine from Trendlines about a year ago.  It
does 1180 CFM or so and cost me $270 + $30 shipping.

I currently have it connected to places, 3 machines plus my work bench.  Each has
a blast gate with a switch wired so that the dust collector starts upon opening
the gate.  I use ADS 4" drain tubing with flexible dryer hose on the machine side
of the blast gate.  This lets me move the machines around without problem.  Duct
tape is used to connect sections together.

I've done no tweaking of the system to get rid of leaks.  The collector is
powerful enough to collect from a single machine, but I get clogs if I try to
collect from my jointer and planer at the same time.

Summary:  I'm pretty happy with the machine.  I tend to stay away from Taiwan
built tools, but there isn't a whole lot of precision that needs to go into a
dust collector.

roger
rhoover@watson.ibm.com
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Original_To:  BITNET%"woodwork@ipfwvm"
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 28 Jul 1992 07:14:00 CDT
From:         JM01@SWTEXAS.BITNET
Subject:      thanks for wiring help

> From:         Mike Parker <mparker@ADOBE.COM>
> Subject:      Re: wiring riddle
> To:           Joe Meyer <JM01@SWTNYSSA.BITNET>
>
> In article <WOODWORK%92072307214979@IPFWVM.BITNET> JM01@SWTEXAS.BITNET writes:
>
> >        two-way      four-way     two-way
> >        switch 1     switch 2     switch 3
> >         -----        -----        -----
> >         |   |        A   B        |   |
> >         |   |        C   D        |   |         Kitchen Light
> >         -----        -----        -----         -------------
> >
> >          On           On           On                Off
> >          Off          On           On                Off
> >          On           Off          On                Off
> >          On           On           Off               Off
> >          Off          Off          On                On   *
> >          On           Off          Off               On   *
> >          Off          On           Off               Off
> >          Off          Off          Off               Off
> >
>
> Switch 2 is installed wrong.
> Here is switch 2 in the "cross" position, you can see that the light is off
> and switching either 1 or 3 will turn it on.
>
> ______________  ___________  __________  ____________
>               \            \/           /
>                \___________/\__________/
>
> Here Switch 2 is in a correct "straight" position and this time the light
> is on but switching either 1 or 3 will turn it off.
>
> ______________  _______________________  ____________
>               \                         /
>                \_______________________/
>
> And here is what you have, with switch 2 wired like this you just won't
> ever get juice from left to right, lights out!
>
> ______________  ___________   _________  ____________
>               \            | |          /
>                \___________| |_________/


My apologies to the list, for not acknowledging sooner the help given on the
4-way light switch problem.  I took a 4-day weekend, from Friday the 24th thru
Monday the 27th and haven't had an opportunity to express my gratitude until
now.  Taking bits and pieces of advice, from several replies by members of the
WOODWORKING list, I determined with a continuity tester that the 4-way switch
was miswired.  Although I didn't see Mike Parker's answer until after I had
determined the exact problem with a continuity tester, Mike is exactly right
on what the problem was.  Unfortunately, in rewiring the switch, I cracked the
plastic casing and ended up replacing it anyway (-:  Thanks again to everybody
for all the help.

Joe Meyer
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bednarek@bonfire (Dennis Bednarek Mfg 4-6971)
Subject: Re: Hand Power Planer
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 92 05:16:43 GMT

  In my mind you are talking about a costly project.
  First every time I worked with green wood I ran into warpage and shrinkage
     problems.  Suggest you let the wood dry first.
  With the number of boards your talking about and size you are talking about
     investing loads of cash into a jointer, planer and cutters that you will
     be destroying. (oak is hard wood)
  Thaught that crossed my mind is that rough sawn timber framing does not look
     bad.  In my old house I built a rec. room in the basement with it and got
     loads of complements on it.

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jde@everex.uucp (-Jeff Ellis())
Subject: Bandsaw and wood lathe
Organization: ESIX Computers, Inc.
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 92 23:46:36 GMT

I am a novice woodworker. I build mostly do fine woodworking with wood
less than 4/4. I am looking for a band saw to re-saw 4/4 wood down to 
1/2" or less. What is a good saw for the money to do this?

I am also thinking about buing a woodlathe to make some bowls, cups and
some spindle turing. I need to find something good for a beginer, but 
good enough for nice work.

Thanks in advance!

-- 
Jeff Ellis		ESIX SYSTEM/V  
                        UUCP:uunet!zardoz.cpd.com!everex!jde
                        Internet: zardoz.uucp!everex!jde@ics.uci.edu

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: Dave Larsen <dal@boombox.micro.umn.edu>
Subject: Re: router vs shaper
Organization: University of Minnesota
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1a2
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 18:18:20 GMT


>I have been contemplating purchasing a shaper for doing things like
making 
>raised panel doors as well as all the things you would do with a router
in a 
>table. I have been looking at the delta shaper( 1 1/2 hp) and the AMT
motorless
>models. These tools sell for around $300. My concern is whether or not
these
>"small" shapers have enough guts to power the big cutters required to
make 
>raised panel doors. 

As I posted yesterday, I own an old Sears shaper that has a 3/4 HP motor.
It has plenty of power to cut raised panels. I usually make more than one
pass, taking off a little at a time. I use a 4 1/2" panel cutter.

>	This brings me to my next question. I  can purchase a 3 hp shaper for
about 
>$1600. This is out of the question. If I need to have the 3 hp worth of
power, 
>why wouldn't I just build a good table and mount in it a 3 hp router. I
>can do all this for about $300. 

This brings up the (lengthy and regular) discussion of motor horse power
ratings that you will find in the FAQ.

>What will the shaper offer that the router/table
>cannot as far as power, versatility goes?

A much wider range of cutter shape and size. The reveal of the panel on a
router made panel is usually < 1".  I haven't seen any "handle-less"
drawer and doors cutters for a router (tapered drawer edges).

Safety too. Porter Cable says not to put cutters > 2 or 3" (sorry I
forget) in their routers. This was too limiting because I couldn't match
some cabinet doors I wanted to build.
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Original_To:  BITNET%"woodwork@ipfwvm"
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Wed, 22 Jul 1992 14:33:00 CDT
From:         JM01@SWTEXAS.BITNET
Subject:      rust prevention & cutting lattice

What kind of lubricant or light oil should I apply to my garden tools and saws,
to keep them from rusting after use?  Should I use WD-40, or would a spray
bottle with a light vegetable oil inside do the trick?

Also, does anyone have any hints for cutting wooden lattice to fit along the
bottom of a deck--I'm afraid to use my circular saw, because of the nails in
the lattice.  Should I just use a crosscut handsaw?

Thanks, Joe Meyer
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 28 Jul 1992 08:00:18 EDT
From:         Doug Cutler <UNCDWC@UNCVM1.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: While on the subject of cordless drills

   I have a small (1/4 in) B&D drill, it has a 7.2 volt battery with a
16 hr charger.  The instruction manual did say that it could be left on
charge all the time, I do not normally do that because it could be left
on for weeks at a time (much prefer my 3/8 12v) but when using it I tend
to keep it on charge till the particular project is over.  I have had it
about 2 years so far and see no deterioration in the battery.


  Doug. Cutler                       Office of Information Technology,
  VM Systems Programmer              University of North Carolina.
From: thompson@woolly.Eng.Sun.COM (Keith Thompson - Sun BOS Software)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Grizzly Combination sander G1014
Date: 21 Jul 1992 14:12:29 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Mt. View, Ca.
NNTP-Posting-Host: woolly.east.sun.com

In article <sherman.711382528@firenze> sherman@siemens.com. (Bill Sherman) writes:
>Fellow woodworking netters:
>
>I am seriously considering the addition of this combination disk/belt
>sander to my shop. In light of other Grizzly 'horror' stories, I am a
>little reticent to go ahead until I hear a few good words about Grizzly
>and the quality/value of their offerings.
>
>Has anyone purchased this tool? Is it well made? Is it worth the money?
>
>Thanks.
>--Bill

i have had the disk/belt sander for a couple of years... it's great!
it's solidly constructed, it works well, not to hard to align (the
belt), a bit more difficult to change belts, but for as often as i
change belts i'm not willing to spend $100 or more to make that easier.
in other words, i don't think you can beat it for the $$$.

as for the 'horror' stories, i have been skimming the latest rash of
"letters" and it is unfortunate that what is most likely a small
minority opinion gets so much air time.

i have the 6" jointer, 10" table saw, 18" scroll saw (no longer
offered), a lathe and some small odds and ends, all from grizzly, all
great tools. the table saw had a problem with a bearing which was
-promptly- replaced, otherwise i have had -no- problems. i have called
for questions and they have been knowledgeable and courteous. for example,
i asked about converting to 220v, which i did to the table saw, jointer
and the g1014.  i will certainly continue to buy tools from them when
they have the price/performance advantage. i have purchased a fair number
of tools over the years from several places and have found grizzly at par
or better with anyone else for qualit and service.

kbt

p.s. to the original letter writer: i would not expect to be taken
     seriously when i approach someone with sarcasm.
From: ISW@cup.portal.com (Isaac S Wingfield)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Woodworking watchwords
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 92 07:51:11 PDT
Organization: The Portal System (TM)
Distribution: na
  <1992Jul13.131307.7361@ctr.columbia.edu>
  <1992Jul13.141502.8910@monster.saic.com>
  <1992Jul22.101138.2978@titan.ksc.nasa.gov>

The watchword is:

   "Always use the right tool for the job."

And my corrolary is:

   "And the right tool is whatever's handy that gets the job done."



Isaac     isw@cup.portal.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: zedel@weejordy.physics.mun.ca (Len Zedel)
Subject: refinishing old Estey  
Organization: Ocean Sciences Centre
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 11:38:59 GMT

Does anybody have any experience refinishing an old piano.  We have
just acquired one built in 1905 or 1906 and are starting the work
of refinishing it.  Already we have generated some specific questions:

   1. What sort of finish remover works best for such a job.

   2. Where can you get material to fix/replace chipped ivory keys.


  
    Thanks for any advice.


    Len and Liz Zedel
From: Nick_Janow@mindlink.bc.ca (Nick Janow)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Benches
Date: 29 Jul 92 16:39:25 GMT
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada
Distribution: world

tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin) writes:

> What do you have?
> Did you build it?
> What really works great for you?
> What really FAILS for you?
> What would you make if you had it to do, or to do over?
> Do you like tail vices for planing?
> What about shoulder vices, record vices, leg vices, etc...
> What special purpose jigs did you build into your bench?
> Storage cabinets or open?
> Portable?
> Size?

I built mine out of a 5' 10x12 fir (or hemlock) beam I found.  I laminated
2x6's to the sides to extend the length and width, stuck it on a frame similar
to the one on page 86 of "The Workbench Book", added a quick release shoulder
vice ($25 at a garage sale) and added benchstops (along the lines of the ones
on page 86).  I've thought of adding a tail vice and dog holes, but haven't
gotten around to it and I don't know if I ever will.  I keep wood scraps and
drifts of sawdust on a wide board resting on the stretchers.

The bench is solid, and I'm happy with it.  :)

--

Nick_Janow@mindlink.bc.ca
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: guy@slustl.slu.edu (Guy Smith)
Subject: Re: Trouble Ripping Hardwoods
Organization: Saint Louis University  Saint Louis, MO
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 18:27:51 GMT

In article <2114@devnull.mpd.tandem.com> nicks@disco.UUCP (Nick Silva) writes:
>In article <92205.164804DMEJJ@CUNYVM.BITNET> DMEJJ@CUNYVM.BITNET writes:
>>I was wondering if anyone else has this problem.  Whenever I rip hardwoods
>>against the rip fence, the wood gets burn marks along the cut.  
>>.......
>>I would welcome any advice.
>>
A couple of other possibilities. One is that your blade and rip fence aren't
quite parallel. Another is that it could be the wood's fault. Sometimes
ripping relieves internal stress (usually drying related) which can cause
the kerf to close behind the blade, causing binding.
From: tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Handcutting Dovetails
Date: 22 Jul 92 20:08:10 GMT
Distribution: world, na, usa
Organization: University of Arizona UNIX Users Group


 
> Depends on your definition of "hard work". I used this technique to make the
> drawers for my stereo cabinet. Six drawers, 8 1/2" tall. I think I put
> 8 tails in the joint. The first day, I spent 10 hours BENT OVER the
> table saw making the initial cuts. My back was extremely sore.

Wow, I can believe it about your back... ick!

I'm a little surprised, since this technique works so quick and easy for me.
However,  maybe that's due to the fact that I'm of the "tight joints, loose
placement" school of woodworking.   The old geezer who taught me actually
forbid me to use a tape measure, because he thought minor variations (+/- 1/16
or 1/8) in spacing gave the piece more "life" than "dead regularity" did.
I've learned to get pretty good without careful measureing, except
measuring piece versus piece.

Could the differences we experience in speed be due to the difference in
approach to accuraccy?  I get tight joints and visually even tails,  but
a good ruler shows they are not evenly spaced.

I set my mitre gauge at some angle (1 in 7 or whatever), and then use a
series of stop blocks to set the positions for the cuts twixt the pins.
The blocks give me fair reproducability,  but I don't worry about sawing
to lines at this point,  because I make up for any unevenness in the tails.
This means I just slap the board onto the tall board I've affixed to the
mitre gauge,  move it to the first block,  zip zip zip, back and forth to
make a tail cutout about as wide as I want it (+/- 1/16 or so) and then another
block to get the start of the next pin, and so on...    Real fast,  but
not accurate to micrometer tolerances.

Then I use a knife to mark these pins onto the tail boards, and cut to
the insides of the lines with the band saw.     This is also pretty quick,
because all I am doing is making less work for the chisel.   Finally, I
move everything to a comfortable hieght bench, and chisel the remaining waste
off of the tails to the lines.

If you are willing to accept paper thin cracks, you can do this REAL quick.
I make all of my boxes for scrap wood and such this way.  It takes about 3
times as long as doing rabbets or whatever,  but I like having a lot 
of dovetailed boxes around, and like the practice. If you need better than
paper thin crack accuracy then the time goes up a lot on the chisel part,
but not much on the roughing out part.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Pencil Post Bed Plan
Reply-To: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 92 17:26:31 GMT

In article <1992Jul31.162702.24703@adobe.com> Bennett Leeds writes

>BTW, making a pencil post bed with stationary power tools requires a pretty  
>large shop: at least 15' of straight line space to run the posts. Of course,  
>you can always truncate the posts and end up with a regular frame bed.

I have a book on reproducing antique furniture which has plans for the
more traditional four-poster (the "wheat" design). The author recommended
finding a college with a woodworking shop which had a lathe long enough
to turn the posts. He did say, however, that an alternative was to turn
them in sections and dowel joint them together. This might be a way to
make pencil posts in a shorter shop. Bennett's method is, of course,
preferred.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | If train stations are where trains stop, 
                    | what are work stations?
                    |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,misc.consumer.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Building wooden entrance doors
Reply-To: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 92 18:07:45 GMT

In article <1992Jul21.153825.15192@bmerh85.bnr.ca> 1596118@x400gate.bnr.ca writes:

>Finish:
>  As half of this door will be exposed to the elements, what would be a 
>  good finish?  I'd like to be able to see the wood grain so maybe a 
>  good spar varnish?  What about the marine varnishes/polyeurethenes?
>  Would it be a good idea to install a storm door to limit the exposure
>  to wind/rain/snow?

My personal experience, based on one purchased wood door, is that
polyurethane gives a beautiful, but delicate result. After three years
the bottom of mine is beginning to look grey. The rest looks fine. I
intend to add a kickplate and a storm door. Were I to do it over again,
I'd put a storm door up to begin with.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | "Better" is the enemy of "Good enough".
                    |                     Russian proverb.
                    |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: jeff@claw.clearpoint.com (Jeffrey J. Griglack)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Installing a pre-hung door
Date: 22 Jul 92 16:19:07 GMT
Reply-To: jeff@fang.clearpoint.com
Organization: /home/jeff/.organization

On 21 Jul 92 20:34:08 GMT, doshay@ursa.arc.nasa.gov (David Doshay) said:

D> There are only two thinge to get right, and the rest is simple.
D> Thoes two things are:
D> 	Level
D> 	Plumb
D> If you do not know which to do where, then you are in too deep. Otherwise, 
D> if you have the tools, you will do just fine. 

I disagree.  You forgot the only thing that really is necessary:  make 
sure that the frame stays square.

Level and Plumb are nice things for the door to be, if the wall is
level and plumb.  But if the wall is not, as is the case in my 150
year old house, mounting your door this way can look bad and cause
trouble.  I have found that life is a lot easier if you go with the
flow (of the house).  Purists may disagree.
--

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
|Jeff Griglack             |"Hey, you talking to me or are you just practicing|
|jeff@claw.clearpoint.com  | for one of those performances you do?"           |
|jeff@fang.clearpoint.com  |                          -- Lori Anderson        |
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking