From: pf@duke.cs.duke.edu (Pierre Flener)
Newsgroups: rec.travel
Subject: Re: Solo in Morocco [long answer]
Date: 5 Apr 92 15:02:22 GMT
Organization: Duke University Computer Science Dept.; Durham, N.C.

In article <...> geof@u.washington.edu (Geof Givens) writes:
>Could anyone offer any advice or anecdotes on the difficulties of
>travelling as a solo (semi-)budget backpacker in Morocco?  I am not
>a completely naive or inexperienced traveller, but I have read and
>heard first-hand of some nasty thefts and assaults.

I've been twice to Morocco, for one full month each time, and have
only heard of _one_ (admittedly nasty) ASSAULT. Personally, I think
Morocco is as safe as any other country (or unsafe, depending on
your point of view :-) and that most of these _few_ assaults can
be traced back to flagrant provocation, eg blatant display of wealth,
or disrespect of local customs (clothing, etc). A cautious and
respectful traveler won't have any security problems!

>I am a man, thin and obviously American, and I speak a bit of
>French, English, and Spanish.  This would be the least industrialized
>country I have visited.

LANGUAGE is no barrier, especially in the Berber part of Morocco,
or in any touristy place: people there have an incredible talent for
picking up foreign languages! French will definitely help you;
so does Spanish in the north. Being US-ian won't attract any sentiments
in that part of the world. Being male makes most things easier.

>I would travel by train among the cities of Casablanca, Fez, and
>possibly Marrakesh, and probably a couple spontaneous choices.

Forget Casablanca! Fes and Marrakesh are absolute must-sees.
Trains are OK, though not very fast (average of hardly 30 miles
per hour, stops included). The bus network is comprehensive, cheap
and faster. So are collective taxis. Contact me for recommendations
about other sights.

Now, the real big problem is HUSTLING! Be prepared to spend a big
deal of your time on convincing hustlers that you don't need their
help. In case you do think you need it, then be extremely cautious
to determine the exact conditions of your guided tour (I recommend:
hotel-to-hotel coverage, no advance (partial) payment under any
circumstances, linking the payment to the fulfillment of _all_
conditions, setting up the itinerary and sights beforehand,
threatening with no-payment in case he wants you to visit some shop).
A full-day guided tour by a hustler can easily be arranged for 10DH
(little more than 1US$), and this corresponds to the daily salary
of the average Moroccan worker. But bear in mind that he is determined
to get you into some shop(s) and have you buy something, because he
can expect a 30-40% commission on each sale! This figure was given
to me by several merchants: of course they tremendously raise their
prices in case you show up with a hustler, otherwise they couldn't
afford the commission. They seem to depend on the hustler-mafia,
but without actually encouraging them to do so. Some even admit
disliking the hustlers, despite their bringing customers! Hustling
also includes finding you a hotel or a restaurant (in which case
the business people have to tip), or simply giving you directions
(in which case you "have to" tip). Every single hustler will pretend
he is a student, and only wants to walk with you in order to better
learn your language: beware, this is rarely true! Others say they
only want a ballpoint pen as payment. Others pretend needing your
assistance in writing a letter, or understanding a drug prescription:
these are only pretexts to get you into shops! Others hitchhike,
of course only with rental cars ;-)   But no paranoia either:
every now and then, you'll meet the rare uninterested Moroccan friend!
And he will be offended if you dismiss him.  Last but not least:
even some hustlers are fun (especially their amazing historic
approximations!), and 10DH a day is nothing considering that he
will effectively keep all other hustlers away from you (ie a huge
amount of time and goodwill saved).

The other problem the unprepared traveler seems to dislike is the
constant need for HAGGLING. As said above, you must definitely show
up _alone_ in a shop: merchants will appreciate your ingenuity for
such an achievement, they will be much friendlier, and start with
a much lower price. Also avoid the shops in the main touristy streets,
and hunt for bargains in the back alleys! Never mention your offer
first. Don't hesitate to offer a ridiculous price first: you might be
literally thrown out of the shop, but that won't prevent them for
welcoming you in case you come back hours later: play the game!
Never immediately direct your attention to the item you are aiming at,
but only do so casually after interrupting some previous haggling
over items you are not interested in! Get an idea of actual prices
by peeking into the state-run handicraft cooperatives, where fixed
prices are displayed. The first customer in the morning gets special
treatment (and hustlers are rarely out in the streets before 11am!).
Other than bargaining over souvenirs, I recommend you immediately
enquire about the prices of basic food and drink items: street-side
vendors tend to double their prices in case you display your
ignorance of them. Always double-check the sum on restaurant bills,
or hotel bills: some try to cheat on you here as well.
If you are "dragged" into a shop, and don't feel like buying anything
(even after having enjoyed some tea), don't let them pressure you
into buying anything. Their trick is to lull you for 30 minutes, and then
attack you broad-side with very aggressive sales tactics. Just walk
out, mumbling some well-formulated thanks and excuses.

There is much more to say about hustling and haggling, but I think
I have outlined their main features.

Some general guidelines. Learn bits and pieces of the language:
it's amazing how this pays off! Always smile (however difficult this
can become in case you really don't get rid of an abnoxious hustler):
a grim look, or physical violence like pushing people away, won't help.
Hustlers, and real friends you might make, tend to walk very closely
to you (even if you are male), and touch you quite often on your arms
and back: this has nothing to do with homosexuality, and should not
be faced aggressively. It's their way of talking to you, and they
are not aware that you might feel discomfort about it.
Don't take pictures of people without their permission. Cover your legs
and arms (long bermudas will do, though). Only drink bottled mineral
water (though, at least in the north, many travelers have no trouble
with tap water). Be interested in their music, dances, religion
(not politics!), etc. Although it is difficult to establish contacts,
some women travelers had the time of their life once invited by
Moroccan women!

>Thanks in advance for your comments!
>
>Geof Givens

Sure! 

In article <...> LMWHITE@SLACVM.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU (Lois White) writes:
>I too have heard the same stories.  As a woman, I would NEVER travel
>alone to Morocco again.

I know what you're talking about from having observed it! But I have
also observed women travelers going remarkably trouble-free thru
Morocco. I'm not accusing _you_ (because I haven't observed your
behavior), but have noticed how many women are totally oblivious
that they are traveling within a very conservative islamic society!
To the average Moroccan, a woman walking around in shorts or 
mini-skirts, not covering her arms or hair, possibly sharing hotel-rooms
with fellow male travellers, possibly traveling alone, etc, can't be anything
else than a whore! So they think of her as easy prey for verbal
proposals, or fondling/grabbing, not imagining that she might dislike
it! I'm serious: be aware that different standards apply, and that you
are the foreigner, not them! It's not up to them to accept our standards
about what a woman can do, it's up to us to conform to their standards.
Dress and behave "correctly", wear an engagement ring (even if fake),
or even have your hands "ink-tattoed" in the Berber fashion, and you'll
earn the respect and security islamic men offer their women!

>It is VERY difficult
>to get information no matter what language one speaks from local tourist
>offices.

True! But who needs these offices anyway? (Except for picking up free
maps or pamphlets of the area.)  There are some excellent guidebooks
around: I highly recommend the (British) "Rough Guide on Morocco"!

>There are some beautiful things to see there, but you'll have
>to be very careful and relatively self-sufficient.
>Good luck!

It's not a question of luck, but rather a question of being mentally
prepared! My above description admittedly sounds like it takes a lot of
skill and practice to enjoy the place, but if you know these things
before showing up in a foreign culture, you must have made up
your mind whether you'll want to face these things or not.
You will undoubtedly make mistakes, and get cheated on, so what?

Morocco is a beautiful country, and its hospitality has worldwide
renown, deservedly so! Play their game, it's that easy!

Enjoy Morocco,

                                      - --  ___@ 
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      Pierre  (pf@cs.duke.edu)     - -- / /\_>/\ \
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