HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: marcouil@ireq.hydro.qc.ca (Luc Marcouiller)
Subject: Re: Those annoying lights...
Reply-To: marcouil@ireq.hydro.qc.ca
Organization: Hydro-Quebec
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 12:57:12 GMT

In article <1jjlk0INN5op@phantom.gatech.edu>, grahamt@phantom.gatech.edu (Graham E. Thomas) writes:
|> ejv2j@Virginia.EDU ("") writes:
|> 
|> >I own a 1986 Jetta four door with 90K miles, which I bought
|> >used two years ago. Every time I start it up, the
|> >dash lights corresponding to the oxygen sensor and the battery
|> >come on and stay on until I rev past about 1500rpm; then I
|> >don't see them again until the next time I start the car.
|> 
|> >When they do go off as a result of revving the motor past about
|> >1500rpm, all electrical features suddenly work more strongly --
|> >the headlights brighten slightly, the fan blows a bit harder,
|> >the interior lights brighten perceptibly.
|> 
|> It's not a problem. My mom's Jetta does the same thing, as to
|> many cars I've driven. After you start the car, the battery is
|> a little bit drained. When you rev the engine, you charge the battery to
|> it's full capacity, so the light goes off, and your lights get brighter.
|> 
|> That may be an oversimplified explanation. Does anyone have anything 
|> better?

Well ... close but no cigars! Recharging the battery takes longer than that
but when you rev the engine the alternator gives a higher voltage and becomes
self-inducing thus not draining current from the battery.  Self-inducing means
that you need current to "energize" the rotor of the alt and at first it
comes from the battery (alt idiot light on) and when the output from the alt
is sufficient it kinds of feed itself (idiot light off).

And for the record all the VW I owned did this at one point or another.  Of
course you know that they have the habit to eat trought alternators right! 
(thus my knowledge of this stuff)

Share and Enjoy

Luc
-- 
   Luc Marcouiller,                  Institut de Recherche d'Hydro-Quebec,
   Chercheur                         marcouil@ireq.hydro.qc.ca
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: amjewe01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu
Subject: Re: Door Handles are a Pain in the *@!
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 19:17:03 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: University of Louisville

In article <C19Eso.8uC@watserv1.uwaterloo.ca>, jfreder@healthy.uwaterloo.ca (Jody Frederick) writes:
> Hello to all:  I have a problem that I've seen discussed in this newsgroup
> before, but I forget the solution that was suggested.  My door handles of
> my VW Jetta are all sticking and it's happened in every VW I've ever
> owned.  
> Jody Frederick


Please post answers.
My driver's side door is sticking again ('67 beetle).
It was fixed for a while by taking the handle off and just playing with 
the plate inside.  But it only worked for a few months.  

Thanks in advance.
From: drago@ds10.scri.fsu.edu (Dragovitsch)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: How to find the year of a Type I
Date: 27 Jan 93 21:04:11 GMT
Organization: SCRI, Florida State University

Well, you may take this as a "mini"-FAQ.

Some people who are buying their first bug or ghia still
believe that the engine of their new cutie is
the original one. But this is (we're writing 1993 now)
a pretty rare case, very often the engines have replaced
several times. To find out, what year your engine is,
check the serial number (on the engine block, right below the
alternator/generator stand) 
The first letters/numbers are important:



1,2,or 3:   Dec 53 until July 60    1200cc  36hp
5,6,7,8,9   August 60 'til July 65  1200cc  40hp
FO          August 65 'til July 66  1300cc  50hp
HO          August 66 'til July 67  1500cc  53hp
H5          August 67 'til July 69  1500cc  53hp
B           August 69 'til July 70  1600cc  57hp
AE          August 70 'til Sept.71  1600cc  60hp dual port
AH          from August 71          1600cc  60hp dual port
                                               (Califor. only)
AK          from October 72         1600cc  48hp dual port
AF,AJ,AS    from Dec 74             1600cc  48hp dual port 
                                               (fuel inj.)

(I know, a lot of you know this already, but there are always 
 some Type-I beginners in this group)
Peter


-- 
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          /  /  / /__    /   / \  / / |/ /  /     /   . 

--- --=[  G O D ,   E M P E R O R ,  A N D   D E V I L  ]=-- ----
From: milo@dorm.rutgers.edu (Jim  mielo)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Trade or upgrade?
Date: 22 Jan 93 02:51:54 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.vw
Organization: rutgers university

In article <1993Jan15.191229.16802@cc.umontreal.ca>,
soubyran@ERE.UMontreal.CA (Soubyran Richard) wrote:
> 
> 
> Hello VWers!
> 
> I come to you for advise... I presently own a 1987 Golf GTI 16V. It
> has about 120 000 km (about 74 500 miles). She has served me very
> well over the years... but I am confronted to a dilemna. 
> 

> Is it better to keep the car and then "upgrade" it with kits,
> suspensions, chips, etc?
> 
> Please... help!!!!
  There's nothing better than a new car. I was in a similiar postion last
year and I decided to upgrade. In my case, there was room for big and cheap
improvements. I had solid front rotors and anemic engine. In your case, the
breaks are great and the engine good. There isn't too much to do. Maybe a
cam(exhaust only or both), upper strut tie bar, koni adjustable shocks or
an exhaust.
    The other side is a new GTi or maybe go for a Probe GT. Either way, the
car will be new new new new new new. That squeak and rattle in the hatch
won't need the  hours of repair anymore. Those struts  and tires won't need
to be replace. No oil change for another 3000 mile. the car is new. It
smells new it looks new   a warrantee !!! .....    well, I just got a bit
out of control there but I'd go with the new car. Especially since the new
cars out there are a vast improvement over the older ones in all areas. I
would look at it as the ultimate fluid  change and tune-up.


      Good Luck

PS the new Civic Si is a nice piece as are the escorts and NX 2000's
Although this is heresy, I would consider them over the new golfs based on
cost factors alone.     


James Mielo
Rutgers College of Pharmacy '94
milo@dorm.rutgers.edu
 1990 GTi 8v

 Sub Umbra Petri
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: sircomp@bcarh289.bnr.ca (Brian Magee)
Subject: Re: [a] What kind of mileage do you all get on your Beetles?
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 93 21:17:38 GMT

In article <1993Jan22.145316.1@ulkyvx.louisville.edu> amjewe01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu writes:
>In article <C18EIE.641@news.cso.uiuc.edu>, mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu (Real Life?!?! HA!!) writes:
>> wanderer@camelot.bradley.edu (Kevin Murphy) writes:
>> 
>> 
>>>well, the summary says it.. what should I expect?
>> 
>> My friend's '62 with 1600cc engine and stock carb usually makes between 27 and
>> 35 mpg on the highway.  Don't know about around town.
>
>> Michael T. Chaffee       | mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu  |  ______    
>
>My (mostly) '67 with a 1600cc gets about 23 or so mpg.  This is pseudo-city
>driving - driving on the interstate for 10 miles then back into the city 
>driving.  

<sigh>, tis the sad truth... with mostly city driving I get about 20 - 22
mpg (if I did my metric conversions right :-) That's on a '71 Super Beetle,
stock 'cept for a quiet-pack exhaust system.
A while back in either Hot VW's or VWtrends, there was an article on how to 
get 50+ MPG from an almost-stock bug, using a header, and aftermarkt 
carberator (sp?), some fancy tuning and polishing to make it much more
efficient.  With one of those Jacobs ignition systems, I assume this 
could be upped to around 55 or (gasp) 60 mpg... hmmm, this is getting interesting.
Anyone know when that article was? I have almost all issues since 1989, but
they are all back in Calgary, and I'm in Ottawa. This would be a worthwhile
winter-project for my car...
Anyone have any ideas for getting super-mileage while keeping the power the 
same (or even better.. increase it!)
Now if only I could get a complete computer-controled engine management system
for my bug, I'd be a happy camper :-)  

>
>Just me and My thoughts (nobody else wants 'em)
>anna

later...
			Rob



--
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Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: finnegan@invader.NoSubdomain.NoDomain (Kenneth Finnegan)
Subject: [W] GLI Wheels for Sale (Maybe..)
Nntp-Posting-Host-[nntpd-5588]: invader.navo.navy.mil
Reply-To: finnegan@navo.navy.mil
Organization: Grumman Data Systems	
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 18:30:49 GMT

I'm considering selling a set of 4 alloy wheels that came
off of my '86 Jetta GLI.  They're taking up room in my
garage, and I'd rather sell them to finance further 
enhancements on the car.  They are NOT the 16V "teardrop"
wheels.  They are the slotted alloys. Details:

-14" wheels
-good to excellent shape (clearcoat is intact)
-shod with Kleber CM700 185/60's (Tires have about
           5k-7k miles left on them, I would guess)

As far as I know, these wheels will fit just about any [W]
VW.

When I took them off the car about a year ago, they were all 
balanced, and all the tires are inflated.  I'm stopping
by the local "wheel dealer" after work today to get him to
make me an offer.  If anyone is interested in purchasing
them, e-mail me an offer. They'll go to the highest
bidder if I get a good enough offer.

Thanks,

Kenneth
finnegan@navo.navy.mil
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 17:50:34 EST
From: <JML12@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Any Thing Owners Out There?

During a recent trip I purchased my second 1973 Thing (yes, I own two of
these beauties now).  My ultimate goal is to make one very pristine
example of the breed.  Are there any Thing owners with tips or warnings
that I might find useful in the rebirthing process?

Thanks!                     James Lindley
                            JML12@PSUVM.PSU.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: karlo@island.COM (Karlo Kilayko)
Subject: For Sale: 1990 Vanagon Carat
Summary: 1990 Vanagon Carat 27K miles, $16,900
Keywords: For Sale: 1990 Vanagon Carat $16,900
Organization: Island Graphics Corp.
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 23:51:02 GMT

Alpine white, seven passenger
27k miles, asking $16,900

air conditioning
automatic
power lock
power windows
power steering
cruise control
AM/FM cassette
alloy wheels

contact:
Karlo Kilayko
415-491-1000x116 day
415-331-1567 eves
From: bossoj@nuge101.its.rpi.edu (Joseph Charles Bossolini)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Clutch for 82 A4000 diesel (Was Re: Clutch for 83 Rabbit)
Date: 22 Jan 93 17:10:29 GMT
Reply-To: bossoj@rpi.edu
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY.

In article <22JAN199302104511@msr.triumf.ca>, gmorr@msr.triumf.ca (Gerald D. Morris, UBC Physics (604)822-3714) writes:
|> In article <13920016@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com>, gbono@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (George Bono) writes...
|> >  I have a 1983 Rabbit LS with 93k and it needs a clutch.  Though I have
|> >  a manual for this car it doesn't cover clutch replacement?!  I assume
|> >  that one can do this without removing the engine?  Any net wisdom would
|> >  be appreciated:
|> > 
|> >  Thanks, 
|> >  George
|> > 
|> >  gbono@sr.hp.com    707-577-3395
|> I have replaced Rabbit clutches twice - its not so bad. You do
|> not have to remove the engine, but you do have to support it, as the
|> tranny mount on the driver's side takes part of the engine's weight.
|> I remember something about setting the crankshaft to TDC or somewhere
|> so that a cut out on the flywheel lines up with the drive flange on
|> the right hand of the differential - otherwise it interferes.
|> I strongly recommend that you replace the little seal and bronze bush
|> in the end of the input shaft, where the clutch pushrod comes out,
|> while you have the opportunity.
|> 
|> Gerald Morris        gmorr@reg.triumf.ca
|> University of British Columbia
|> Vancouver, BC, Canada
|> 

Kind of on the same subject;  I need to replace my clutch in my 82 A4000
diesel, and my Bentley manual seems to imply that replacement can be done
without removing the engine, only the transmission.  _But_, about 80K ago
when I had the current clutch put in, I was told the process involved
removing the engine...

Anyone done this operation and know the exact procedure??  Did my mechanic 
take me for a couple extra hours of work that really wasn't done (i.e. engine
removal)??

Thanks.

Joe
From: zampicem@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Mike Zampiceni)
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 02:13:36 GMT
Subject: Re: Quantum=4000?
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw

Presumably, you're asking why a VW Quantum equates to the number 4000. That's
because the Quantum and Audi 4000 shared the same body shell and mechanicals.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: dans@panix.com (Dan Simoes)
Subject: Re: [W] need to replace catalytic converter
Organization: Panix Public Access Internet & Unix, NYC
Distribution: rec
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 15:25:55 GMT

In article <1993Jan23.215728.27634@wuecl.wustl.edu> christos@wucs1.wustl.edu (Christos Papadopoulos) writes:
>
>	Although I haven't bought one, Techtonics sell new converters for $125.
>Definately worth checking out. Anyone bought one of these? You may need
>adapters since I think these are 2" diameter.
>
>Christos.

They do not make a cat for the 8v engine right now, only the 16v.  You can weld it in, but it is not a stock fit.  They are working on the 8v ones,
but don't have anything good right now.  I believe even the 16v one is
not that great, by their own recognition.

I am having the same problem in my 86 GLI (rattle, loss of power) and my
local CarQuest/Beck-Arnley distributor is getting me a cat for around
$100 or so.  I'll let you know the brand and so forth...

| Dan |

-- 
Dan Simoes                                       Voice: 914.747.2900 x415
Danix Consulting                                 email: dans@panix.com or
Yorktown Heights, NY                                     dans@danix.uucp
From: dheckman@novell.com (Diane Heckman)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: [A]:Floods and VWs...some Questions....
Date: 21 Jan 93 17:43:01 GMT
Organization: Novell Inc., San Jose, Califonia

Just a word of warning for you VDub owners out there:

When it's been really rainy and wet, don't use your emergency
brake when the car is parked.  Apparently, the wetness can 
cause the rear brakes to stick in place to the brake drums.
Makes driving impossible.

If this happens to you, adjust the brakes all the way out (away
from the drums), and whack the inside of the wheel with a hammer
in hopes of freeing them up.  They open up the wheels, and see
if the brakes have freed.  Don't forget to adjust the brakes 
back near the drums when you're all done.....

Or, just get it towed to the local VW place and pay $37 like I did.  :-)

The wetness explanation was from the VW place.  And, I was trying
to blame that earthquake.


Sure wish I'd known about this...
Diane
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: sgupta@pint.ecn.purdue.edu (Sameer Gupta)
Subject: Weird behavior on 85 Jetta
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network
Date: 22 Jan 93 15:49:32 GMT

Hi,

I noticed something very weird and want to see if someone can give me an
explanation as to what happened.  The car is a straight 8 valve jetta with
a 5 spd if it makes any difference.

I had been driving the car at about 70-75 mph for about 6 hours straight.
It was getting very low on gas.  Since I was about 3 miles away from home,
I did not want to stop.  However, I noticed that water temprature started to
rise.  Not rapidly, slowly.  I slowed down to about 65 mph, but it did not
help.

Anyway, I stopped to get some gas, which also gave the engine a chance to
cool down a bit.  I cannot figure out why the temp started to rise.  It had
been steady for the past 5 hours and 45 minutes.  Could it be due to low gas ?
Also, I heard a slight humming sound coming from the rear.  I am pretty sure
that it was the fuel pump.  Is it going bad or is it normal to be able to hear
it after it has been driven straight for about 6 hours ?

Thanks for your help,

Sameer Gupta
From: jmm2948@zeus.tamu.edu (Jeffrey M. Mayzurk)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: 2.0L 16V Timing belt
Date: 27 Jan 1993 14:37 CST
Organization: Texas A&M University
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: zeus.tamu.edu
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    

In article <C1H89A.GxI@ncifcrf.gov>, taylorb@ncifcrf.gov (Brent Taylor) writes...
>Well, I finally got around to changing my ailing timing belt tensioner on the
>16V 2.0L.  This meant that I had to take the lower timing belt cover off (or so
>I thought!) - which meant that the pulleys on the crankshaft sprocket had to
>come off.  Well, I got the first pulley off, but damn if I could get the other
>one off!  This is the one that drives the air conditioning compressor.  Does
>anybody know what gives here??!!
>Does this pulley come off.... or is it attached (permanently) to the crankshaft
>sprocket?  I even tried loosening the center bolt on the crankshaft!!  NOT! It
>wouldn't move!

The crank pulley WILL come off, it just takes a lot of torque.  Get a helper
to hold the flywheel for you, using a large screwdriver or prybar, while you
get on the 19mm bolt with a long extension.  By the way, use at least 1/2"
drive tools... I have broken three 3/8" 19mm sockets removing that damn
pulley.  Also, when you get ready to put it all back together, make sure you
use Loctite.

With a little maneuvering, I can usually change the tensioner wihout
removing the lower cover and the belts. 

I don't know if the manual is correct or not, but I usually try to adjust
the tension so I can turn the belt just 90 degrees; like you said, the
tensioner makes a lot of noise if it's any tighter.  Once you get the 
belt on and adjusted, start the car and rev the engine a bit.  If you see
the belt flapping at all, it's too loose.

Good luck..


--
Jeffrey M. Mayzurk

ifcg550@utxvms.cc.utexas.edu (preferred)
jmm2948@zeus.tamu.edu

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: michael9@nadine.cs.mun.ca (Michael Sullivan)
Subject: Re: Weird behavior on 85 Jetta
Organization: CS Dept., Memorial University of Newfoundland
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1993 21:54:36 GMT

finnegan@invader.NoSubdomain.NoDomain (Kenneth Finnegan) writes:

>In article <sgupta.727717772@pint.ecn.purdue.edu>, sgupta@pint.ecn.purdue.edu (Sameer Gupta) writes:
>|> 
>|> I noticed something very weird and want to see if someone can give me an
>|> explanation as to what happened.  The car is a straight 8 valve jetta with
>|> a 5 spd if it makes any difference.
>|> ..to get some gas, which also gave the engine a chance to
>|> cool down a bit.  I cannot figure out why the temp started to rise.  It had
>|> been steady for the past 5 hours and 45 minutes.  Could it be due to low gas ?
>|> Also, I heard a slight humming sound coming from the rear.  I am pretty sure
>|> that it was the fuel pump.  Is it going bad or is it normal to be able to hear
>|> it after it has been driven straight for about 6 hours ?

>It sounds as if your fuel transfer pump is going.  When mine was failing,
>Kenneth

  Sorry!!  It is perfectly normal for the water tempture to rise after heavy
driving and the stopping.  Think about it.  The only way the engine can cool
off is when the water pump is pumping water about the cooling system.  If
the car is stopped, the water just sits there, and gets hotter and hotter.

  I believe that the VW manual recommends that if you see this condition, you
should sit and idle the engine at higher then idle rpm.

  This has happened to me several times when doing a lot of highway driving,
and would pull off to grap a photo of something.  Sure enough, I could watch
the temp gauge rise.

  BTW, this is also way it is recommened that after really hot and heavy 
driving, you let the car cool down before turning it off.  Especially important
if you have turbo! 
-- 
|uunet!garfield!michael9|'"Proof denies faith and without faith I am nothing,"|
|michael9@odie.cs.mun.ca| says God.  "But you have given us proof," says      |
|POB 756,St.John's,Nfld.| man, "Therefore you do not exist. QED." "Oh, my,"   |
|A1S 1G8                | says God, and disappears in a puff of logic.'       |
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: sircomp@bcarh289.bnr.ca (Brian Magee)
Subject: Re: The FIRE breathing bug!  Help!
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 93 20:45:44 GMT

In article <HOLLEN.93Jan22093218@peg.megatek.UUCP> hollen@megatek.UUCP (Dion Hollenbeck) writes:
>>>>>> On 21 Jan 93 01:40:36 MDT, slhmz@cc.usu.edu said:
>
>
>Travis> I just found a 1972 super-beetle, 1500cc, sunroof for $200.
>
>Travis> The engine starts some of the time (not most of the time...), but when
>Travis> it does, it has absolutely NO compression and blows flames (yes, actual
>Travis> true to life fire) out the right tailpipe.
>
>Travis> The owner (soon to be previous owner) says that it is a ring problem.
>Travis> But wouldn't bad rings just burn lots of oil?
>
>Travis> I think it is a really bad valve problem.  What would cause a bug to
>Travis> spit fire?  
>
>Travis> Is it worth fixing?  With all my VW engine probs, I've never come 
>Travis> across a fire breathing bug!  Help!
>
>Well, I would look at it this way.  You can get a longblock for $800
>unless you want something fancy.  You then have $1000 invested in a
>sunroof super-beetle.  Not bad.  There will never be any more Beetles

Or another option could be to buy an inspected, used engine. I remember
reading of a place that buys VW engines from Germany, takes them apart 
to inpect them, and sells them turn-key in the US for VERY reasonable
prices (<$800 ??? anyone, anyone...)

>in the US and as they die, there will be less.  Grab onto this baby
>and fix it up.  It's worth it.

Ahh yes.. the reason that I will NEVER sell my '71 Super.. may not be
worth much now... but it's a great car that has seen a lot of my sweat in 
restoring/customizing it! I'd love to have a steel-sunroof in mine!
Just a question.. where is this '72 from? I thought that all supers
had the 1600 engines? Or is this not the original engine?

>
>-- 
>Dion Hollenbeck                        Email: hollen@megatek.com
>Senior Software Engineer                      megatek!hollen@uunet.uu.net
>Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California    ucsd!megatek.uucp!hollen


		Rob

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Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: christos@wucs1.wustl.edu (Christos Papadopoulos)
Subject: Re: [W] need to replace catalytic converter
Organization: Washington University, St. Louis MO
Distribution: rec
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1993 21:57:28 GMT

In article <ILH.93Jan22134902@chicago.lcs.mit.edu> ilh@lcs.mit.edu writes:
>My '86 GTI (8v) at 98Kmiles needs a new catalytic converter.  It
>sounds like the honeycomb structure has broken away from the casing
>and is rattling around.  Anybody else have to replace theirs?  What
>did it cost you?  Is it likely that pieces of it have broken free and
>clogged the rest of my exhaust?  How would I know?  The car seems to
>have plenty of power.
>
>At a dealer, it sounds like the converter and the pipe in front of it
>(one-piece unit) cost $470 by itself.  They say to add on about $60
>mounting hardware and $100 labor for a very large total $$$.  A local
>shop I go to (Metric Systems in Cambridge, MA) is looking for the
>converter, but isn't sure if they'll be able to find an aftermarket
>one.  They say they may need to buy the converter from VW, again for
>large $$$.
>
>Has anybody else gone through this?
>--
>
>                                Lee Hetherington
>                                ilh@lcs.mit.edu

	Although I haven't bought one, Techtonics sell new converters for $125.
Definately worth checking out. Anyone bought one of these? You may need
adapters since I think these are 2" diameter.

Christos.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw