From: cav@bnr.ca (Rick Cavasin)
Subject: Re: Shoe Biz
Reply-To: cav@bnr.ca (Rick Cavasin)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 92 15:51:44 GMT

Greetings to the good folk of the Rialto from Balderik!

As Thomas Ignatius Perigrinus says, few of us can match the
skill of the medieval cordwainer (my understanding is that
a cobbler was the craftsman who fixed shoes).  With this
in mind, let me share a few 'tricks' I've come up with over
the years:

1) Having a good pattern makes things much easier.  Although
   Thomas' method will work, there is an alternative for those
   with less self-confidence.  Obtain the Tandy leather
   "Plains Indian" boot pattern.  Unlike most 
   Amer-Indian shoe styles, it is NOT a mocassin, but a turn
   shoe not unlike those used in medieval Europe.
   Making a turn shoe is not difficult, and the pattern
   includes reasonably explicit step by step instructions for
   constructing custom patterns and stitching them together.
   I know several people who have used this pattern with
   some variations.	
   If we disregard the calf panel and tonge for now (unless
   we are actually making a boot), we can use the patterns 
   provided to cut our vamp and sole.  As provided, the vamp
   is seamed up the back of the heel.  It is a simple matter
   to cut and paste the vamp pattern to place the seam wherever
   one would with (some Viking shoes were seamed up the front
   of the vamp, many medieval shoes were seamed up the side).
   Simply cut the pattern where you want the seam to be and
   paste it together at the heel (where you don't want the
   seam to be).  You will probably want to modify the area
   of the pattern where the tongue attaches if the tongue is
   to be omitted.  By making a mock up of the shoe out of
   cloth, you can see how it looks/fits and modify the pattern
   to your taste.  The tandy's pattern gives you a starting
   point.  Pieces can be added in if you don't like the final
   result - medieval cordwainers appear to have not always used
   standard patterns.  By experience, they were able to cut
   the vamps to make best use of the leather available, placing
   inserts and seams where needed.

2) The pattern includes instructions on how to stitch on both
   thick and thin soles.  They indicate a simple whip
   stitch, but I would recommend a saddler's stitch.  Pushing
   an awl through a thick sole so it emerges from the edge of
   the sole can be tricky but it is possible.  The trouble is,
   when the time comes to replace the sole, you have to unseam
   the shoe and re-sew it.  Also, turning the shoe right-side
   out after sewing can be well nigh impossible with a thick
   sole (even after soaking in water).  I introduced this
   cheat the first time I had to resole my boots.  Sew a thinner
   sole onto the shoe, but simply stitch right through the
   sole (rather than out the edge).  After turning, glue the heavy outer
   sole on with barge cement.  If you do a decent job of 
   cementing, it should hold with occasional touchups.  To be
   double sure, nailing can be done as suggested by Thomas.

3) For arch support, I see no reason why these could not be
   glued to the inside of the shoe.  As long as the shoe
   fits sufficiently well that the arch of the foot will
   actually stay on the support, it *should* work. Arch support
   components should be available from a shoe makers supply stores
   such as Capital Leather Findings in Toronto.  Check your
   yellow pages.  Insoles with integral arch supports would be
   even easier!

The sole can be hardened by dampening and hammering (provided it
is vegetable tanned leather!), and by waxing (ala cuir boulli).

For sewing, I use an awl and two small leather needles (need 2 for
saddlers stitch).  I use the 'artificial sinew' sold by Tandy's.
It is strong, does not rot, and can be split apart to obtain strands
of desired thickness.  For my next pair of shoes I plan to use 
hand-tanned leather, handspun linen thread, and hog bristle 'needles'.
For the sake of completeness, maybe I'll forge my own awl.
I'm not holding my breath about the scheme ever getting done though.

Cheers,
Balderik
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