HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: cpr4k@holmes.acc.Virginia.EDU (Christian P. Roberts)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Emperor Clock Kits - any experiences?
Date: 19 Aug 92 16:31:31 GMT
Article-I.D.: murdoch.1992Aug19.163131.4006
Reply-To: cpr4k@holmes.acc.Virginia.EDU (Christian P. Roberts)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Academic Computing Center - U.Va.

In article <1992Aug18.215649.8319@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU>,
cpr4k@holmes.acc.Virginia.EDU (Christian P. Roberts) writes:
|> In article <1992Aug18.201513.4262@comp.lancs.ac.uk>,
|> davei@comp.lancs.ac.uk (Mr D Ingles) writes:
|> |> In article <1992Aug18.122306.10795@walter.cray.com>
jeffz@cray.com
|> (Jeff Zais) writes:
|> |> >I'm getting serious about purchasing a grandfather clock kit
from
|> the 
|> |> >Emperor Clock Company catalog.  Does anyone out there have any 
|> |> >experience with these kits (or other clock kits from other
makers)?
|> |> 
|> |> I am interested in such kits etc as well. Does anyone know of any
|> good 
|> |> catalogues for this type of hobby ?
|> |> 
|> 
|>     Consider Henschel's as another option.  Many years ago I looked
|> into several, and the quality of the wood, etc. seemed better to me
|> with this company.  I don't have the address handy, but will post 
|> it tomorrow.

The address is   Hentschel's
                 16 Atlantic Avenue
                 South Dennis, Mass.  02660

--

Chris Roberts                     Academic Computing Center
cpr4k@virginia.edu                University of Virginia           
(804) 982-4693                    Charlottesville, Virginia 22903
From: ron@pilot.njin.net (Ron Natalie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Harbor Freight and Salvage
Date: 17 Aug 92 21:41:08 GMT
Followup-To: rec.woodworking
Distribution: usa
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

I've got a Harbor Freight "Central Machinery" drill press.  It's so
so in quality but the table will not lock firmly which makes it
annoying/dangerous.

My SRI LANKAN socket set works in both directions, but the spring
clip that holds the rotating part of the ratchet tends to pop off
and then the ratchet pieces end up stuck to the socket while you've
got this handle with a big hole in it.

-Ron
From: sine@ravel.udel.edu (sine@sun.acs.udel.edu)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: chair/table
Date: 18 Aug 92 13:07:23 GMT
Organization: University of Delaware

I am looking for plans for a Colonial style chair/table (don't know if
it has another name).  This is a piece in which the back of the chair
flips down to form the table top.  I've only been woodworking for a
little over a year, so I'm not ready for anything too complex, but I'd
like to take a look at a variety of plans.

If you have references for any, I'd really appreciate hearing from you.

Thanks,
Pat


-- 

Pat Sine                                         sine@brahms.udel.edu
Instructional Technology
Willard Hall Ed. Bldg., University of Delaware, Newark, DE 19716
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: An UnGrizzly Tale
Keywords: bandsaw minimax loganberry
Date: 13 Aug 92 18:14:57 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

In article <1992Aug12.144825.12034@watson.ibm.com> 
	rhoover@watson.ibm.com (Roger Hoover) writes:
>
>What to buy?  The big question.  I have a handfull of
>Delta tools that have given me great service (Unisaw,
>RC-33 Planer, DJ-20 Jointer), so that's where I looked
>first.  Unfortunately, Delta has a big gap between their
>$700 14" model and their $2700 20" machine.  I suspected
>that the 14" machine would be underpowered for resawing
>and that the 13.?" width limitation would get in the way.
>And, by the time you added on the riser block and rip
>fence, you were up to $900 or so.  The 20" model was just
>too much money.

For what it is worth, I own a Delta 16" bandsaw that ran me $347 at
Home Depot.  It is by no means "industrial strength" having only a
1/2 hp motor, but it seems to do a pretty good job.  Came with a rip
fence and miter guide, and a good heavy-duty stand as well.  It is a 
3 wheel variety, which doesn't seem to be a problem.  I have found it
to be a good tool for the stuff I do (haven't yet tried  to resaw any
especially hard wood - just some 2x4's).  It is a far cry from the
$1000+ you mention (well beyond the range of my budget).

$0.02 for the scrap pile...

Dave
-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
The heart and the mind on a parallel course, never the two shall meet.
						-E. Saliers
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: rlw@IDA.ORG (Richard Wexelblat)
Subject: Re: Is it ok to wetsand wood?
Organization: IDA, Alexandria, VA
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 92 10:59:16 GMT

I assume you want to wetsand to handle endgrain.  If so, consider using
oil rather than water as your wetting agent.  I recommend peanut oil
from the supermarket.  (Obviously, you'll need to use an oil or oil-base
finish thereafter.)

I use this method when powersanding on the lathe.
-- 
--Dick Wexelblat  (rlw@ida.org) 703 845 6601
  The more viruses you get exposed to, the better your immune system becomes.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: larryg@avs.com (Larry Gelberg)
Subject: Re: Sewing Cabinets - Plans needed.
Organization: Advanced Visual Systems Inc.
Distribution: na
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 13:21:06 GMT
X-Posted-From: phobos.avs.com
X-Posted-Through: sol.ctr.columbia.edu

Ditto the request for plans!  My wife (for whom this project is being
built) and I have been working on a "requirements document" (way too
many years in software engineering!) with factors which you may want
to consider:

* laminated top (to prevent cloth snags)
* two tables joined in an 'L' - one for the sewing machine and the
  other for the Serger
* have the machines on the right side of a rectangular table so that
  cloth can travel on a large area on the left
* have the sewing machine recessed down so that the plate on which 
  the cloth travels is the same height as the table top - this 
  requirement is not necessary for the serger
* vibration inhibitors - I'll probably solve this just by putting
  rubber padding under the machines.
* notion drawers

I doubt I'll find existing plans for a piece this customized, but the
exercise of listing the requirements is a valuable one.

larryg
--
=== Larry Gelberg ============================ larryg@avs.com =======
      Advanced Visual Systems Inc. (AVS Inc.)
      300 Fifth Ave, Waltham, MA 02154
===== Tel: 617-890-4300 = Fax: 617-890-8287 =========================
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bds@mbunix.mitre.org (Smith)
Subject: Re: Band Saw and wood lathe
Organization: The MITRE Corporation, Bedford, MA
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 17:06:38 GMT

In article <1992Aug14.105615.29343@IDA.ORG> rlw@IDA.ORG (Richard Wexelblat) writes:
>The "little" delta lathe is just too lightweight to do any faceplate
>turning of material over, say, 8" diameter.
>
>That goes pretty much for any lathe costing under $1K.
>
>This is true in spades if you want to work with natural (i.e. it starts
>out very untrue, unround, unhomogenious) wood sources.
>
>That's life.
>-- 
>--Dick Wexelblat  (rlw@ida.org) 703 845 6601
>  The more viruses you get exposed to, the better your immune system becomes.


You might try Harold Barker from Ada, Ohio.  He makes lathes mostly
based on Rockwell designs.  He has a 12" (18" at the gap) model that
weighs 350 lbs, and is 60"C-C, and without legs or motor.  It costs
$685.  He also has a 20" bowl turning model that weighs 400 lbs and is
30"C-C, again without legs or motor.  It costs $850.  If you want,
he'll make them any length you want.  By the way, his cheapest model
is 12", weighs 195 lbs, and is 45"C-C.  It costs $425.  The bowl
turning lathe has a 2" shaft while the others have 1" shafts.  This
man works in his garage, too.

Barry
From: flanery@cs.utk.edu (Ray Flanery)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Planes and recycling wood
Date: 18 Aug 92 16:13:45 GMT
Organization: Computer Science Dept, University of Tennessee, Knoxville

First, I finally got the Sears smoothing plane tuned decently (still
waiting for my hock blade for the 1867 Bailey's Patent!). It feels
good to finish a project by planing it smooth rather than sanding
it down! So far I do not see it taking longer with the plane than
with the sander, and the finish is much smoother!

Secondly, my 3 year old daughter has taught me a new way to 
recycle wood shavings. She came out to the garage, saw all the
shavings on the ground and shouted 'hair' while beginning to
pick it all up. Turns out my wife had been working on makeing
cut-out faces and my daughter now uses the wood shavings for 
textured hair (the fine ones become facial hair)! It was only
going to be multch anyway.

later

_____________________________________________________
Raymond E. Flanery Jr., Oak Ridge National Laboratory
Mathematical Sciences Section, EP&M Division
P.O. Box 2009, Bldg. 9207A, Oak Ridge, TN  37831-8083
(615)574-0630  FAX: (615)574-0680
Internet: flanery@msr.epm.ornl.gov
-- 
 Raymond E. Flanery Jr.             |  Go BROWNS !!!                     
 ORNL, MSS, EP&M                    |  1977 MGB (ALICIA II)              
 P.O. Box 2008, Bldg. 6012          |  (615)574-0630  FAX: (615)574-0680 
 Oak Ridge, TN  37831-6367          |  flanery@msr.epm.ornl.gov          
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: hollen@megatek.UUCP (Dion Hollenbeck)
Subject: Re: Is it ok to wetsand wood?
Organization: Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 19:14:24 GMT

>>>>> On Thu, 13 Aug 1992 11:54:49 GMT, jim@jagubox.gsfc.nasa.gov (Jim Jagielski) said:

Jim> Bob Zigon <bobz@truevision.com> writes:

Jim>  /* nothing at all */

Jim> I guess your question is in the Subject line.

Jim> Sooo.... yep... but expect to raise the wood fibers.

And in fact, this is a perfectly good thing to do, raise the wood
fibers.  I have been taught that as the last step before wood
finishing, spray with lukewarm water to raise the grain, then sand
again.  In this manner, the first application of liquid finish will
not raise the wood fibers.

-- 
Dion Hollenbeck       UUCP: {uunet, ucsd, sun}!megatek!hollen
                      INTERNET:            hollen@megatek.com
Megatek Corporation  9645 Scranton Rd.  San Diego, Ca.  92121
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,rec.autos.tech
From: chuck@col.hp.com (Chuck Rice)
Subject: Re: Harbor Freight and Salvage
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 19:28:27 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division

IJIM@vm1.spcs.umn.edu (Jim Colten) writes:
> In article <1992Aug17.151245.17795@kodak.kodak.com>
> kroth@sunshine.Kodak.COM (David Kroth) writes:
>  
> >
> >Recently somebody asked about Harbor Freight tools in rec.woodworking.
> >Their name has come up repeatedly from time to time on both ....
>  
> can you please post an address for HFS?
 
Harbor Freight
3491 Mission Oaks Boulevard
Camarillo California 93011-6010

1-800-423-2567
From: hsc@sybase.com (Howard Cohen)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Sawblade Stabilizers
Date: 20 Aug 92 23:48:30 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Sybase, Inc.

In article <1992Aug17.230932.22144@adobe.com> bennett@adobe.com writes:
>1) Use a homemade table insert. By custom making an insert you can often reduce
>chip out of the cut. It's easy to do - thickness plane a piece of wood to the  
>proper thickness, trace the outline using the original insert as a guide, then  
When I make table inserts, I use stock thinner than the maximum thickness.  
Then I drill four holes around the outside of the table insert blank and 
insert allen-head set screws.  The screws need to align with whatever 
supports the table insert.  On my contractor's saw, there are four narrow 
plates.

Some advantages of the set screws are:

	- It allows you to level the table insert, and make sure it is
	  coplaner with the table (or a few thousandths lower than the table).

	- They dissappear under the surface of the table insert, so they
	  don't catch on the stock as it slides over.

I recently made a molding head insert this way, and have had great results 
with it.  

	Howard
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  Howard "I wood if I could" Cohen
  hsc@sybase.com  {pacbell,pyramid,sun,{uunet,ucbvax}!mtxinu}!sybase!hsc
  Sybase, Inc.    6475 Christie Avenue, Emeryville, CA 94608, 510-596-3406
From: coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM (Chip Coffin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Planing thin strips
Date: 14 Aug 1992 22:54:55 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems
Distribution: world
Reply-To: coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: surfin

I posted about this earlier.

I used 5 minute epoxy to glue the ends of the strips to the sled (a piece of 
plywood or particle board)  You have to sacrifice the ends, however, and the carriage
piece gets a bit trashed too.



chip
From: hsc@sybase.com (Howard Cohen)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Installing Blade Stabilizers
Date: 20 Aug 92 17:31:14 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Sybase, Inc.

In article <1992Aug14.195722.13728@cbnews.cb.att.com> tde@cbnews.cb.att.com (thomas.d.esh) writes:
>I just bought a set of Freud Blade Stabilizers for my Delta Contractor's
>saw.  My question is:
>
>Should I remove the small stabilizers that come with the saw?
>...
>What have other people done in my situation?

I have the Delta contraxctor's saw too, and I only used one stabilizer.
I took off only the one that was easy to remove.  I believe there is an 
improvement even with one.

	Howard
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  Howard "I wood if I could" Cohen
  hsc@sybase.com  {pacbell,pyramid,sun,{uunet,ucbvax}!mtxinu}!sybase!hsc
  Sybase, Inc.    6475 Christie Avenue, Emeryville, CA 94608, 510-596-3406
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: bending wood
Date: 19 Aug 92 20:17:54 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

>Les Bartel (lester@naomi.NoSubdomain.NoDomain) wrote:
>: What is the best way to bend wood?  I need to make a smooth 90 degree
>: bend on a piece of wood 1 x 3/8 x 8 (the board is longer than this, but
>: the bend must occur in 8 inches).  I soaked the wood in water for
>: about a day and it developed creases in the bend.

Dennis Bednarek Mfg offered:
 [some suggestions, followed by]
>Tell us what you are using this for, maybe some additional ideas could create
>an easier way for you.

If the back and sides of the board are not visible, and are not structural
elements (i.e. they don't play a major support role) you could kerf the
back of the piece.  The kerf allows the wood to bent in to that side.  You
see this on the pieces that hold the back and sides of an acoustic guitar
together.

Dave
-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
The heart and the mind on a parallel course, never the two shall meet.
						-E. Saliers
From: billq@fnal.gov
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: bending wood
Date: 19 Aug 92 20:30:54 GMT
Article-I.D.: linac.AW!N2EP-Q
Reply-To: billq@pogo.fnal.gov
Organization: Occasionally, but who has the time?

In article <9cIk02Zr1eJO01@JUTS.ccc.amdahl.com>, twl10@ccc.amdahl.com (Tom Littauer) writes:
|> In article <1992Aug19.063021.19782@mr.med.ge.com> bednarek@picard.med.ge.com (Dennis Bednarek Mfg 4-6971) writes:
|> >Les Bartel (lester@naomi.NoSubdomain.NoDomain) wrote:
|> >: What is the best way to bend wood?  I need to make a smooth 90 degree
|> >: bend on a piece of wood 1 x 3/8 x 8 (the board is longer than this, but
|> >: the bend must occur in 8 inches).  I soaked the wood in water for
|> >: about a day and it developed creases in the bend.
|> >
|> >I have not worked with anything thicker than about 3/16 when trying a tight
|> >bend like 90deg in 8". And even at that I usually soak the wood for about
|> >five days.
|> 
|> Try steam bending instead. Use a length of PVC pipe as your steam cabinet
|> and a tea kettle or pressure cooker or wallpaper steamer as your steam
|> source.
|> 
|> >:               Would it be a good idea to build a jig that has the
|> >: same radius as the bend, and use that as a form?
|> >
|> >That depends on how accurate and neat you need the bend.  If it has to stay
|> >at a fixed radius  I would strongly recommend that
|> 
|> If you do this, remember that you'll likely get a little springback, so make
|> the jig a hair tighter than the final.
|> 
One more thought that hasn't yet been mentioned... is it possible to put
some saw kerf's on the inside of the bend?  Maybe the kerf's in addition
to the hot water and/or steam?  Constant pressure seems to work too.  Put
a weight on the end of the board to provide constant force.  I've also heard
that there's a chemical that will make wood like rubber, but if I remember
correctly, it's really nasty stuff.  Anyone else hear of anything like this?

-billq
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Wed, 12 Aug 1992 20:18:05 EDT
From:         FABY000 <FABY@NMUMUS.BITNET>
Subject:      router

My only comment is that Ryobi tools are very expensive to
repair or to purchase replacement parts.  That is the reason I
decided to purchase PC routers.  Other tools from Japan also are
expensive to repair etc.  From what I have read the router is a
good one and the variable speed is a definite plus.  Roger Barry
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Brass Dip Cleaners
From: jocon@tribiet.maintech.com (Joe Connors)
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 92 20:13:37 PDT
Organization: Tribiet: A city much like hell.

        I have a great deal of brass hardware from furniture
pieces that is coated with tarnish and grime. As the pieces are
intricate, and it would be tedious cleaning and polishing all the
detail areas, I am looking for a dip that will do the work for
me. I would appreciate any leads or products or chemical
solutions you might know of. Thanks!
 
 
                                Joe Connors
                                Carlsbad, CA
                                (619)431-9028
 
What is the sound
of one hand clapping?......:)
 
================================================================
From: tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: bending wood
Date: 19 Aug 92 23:11:47 GMT
Distribution: usa, na, world
Organization: University of Arizona UNIX Users Group


Steam bending wood is easy, alhtough it is a bit fiddly.

Make yourself a steam box.   I knock them together out of spare 1x4s, 1x6s,
whatever.  I gnerally am bending biger things, so I cut a 3" dia hole in the
middle, and use a 5 gallon can on a outdoor fire for my steam source.
Put the wood in the box, and steam for 1 hour per inch thick.  You should steam
for 20 min, or more.  Don't go too long - it picks up too much moisture and
warps while drying.    Some people suggest rubbing the wood with fabric 
softener.   I've never tried it.  Other people suggest putting so detergent
free ammonia int he steam water.   It would tend to stain oak, so I've
never done it.

Get your jig ready.   With a backstrap you can acutally bend 1" thick red 
oak to something silly, like about 3 " radius.  Without the back strap or
blocks you end up breaking or cracking it.   The back blocks also serve
as pairs of hands to help hold the shape. I use wedges between fixed
stops and the blocks, because they are so quick.    So each hold point
ends up needing 5 bits of wood (apart from the 1" thick plywood base).
The front block which is fixed.  The back block which is loose, two
"folding wedges" to hold this back block, and a fixed stop.

Take the hot peice of wood out of the box and slap it onto your jig, bend
it, and put the back strap or blocks on AS QUICK AS POSSIBLE.   You only
have a minute or two before it loses the heat and the moisture.   I generally
have one pair of blocks ready at one end, and I "walk" the bends around, 
putting the back blocks in place with wedges as I go...   then I quick
go back and hammer all the wedges in place.

I then let it sit a lot longer than is probably neccesary.

Watch for shop dirt in this process... I once accidentally got some 
iron filings on a jig,  and when I steam bent some oak all of the oak came out
with little purple black measles.    Had to make up a bunch of iron tannic
stain and do the whole peice.

Also,  make sure you get it right the first time.   Although you can often
get it back into the steam box,   it ends up pickingup too much moisture
and warping on drying.   I ruined a walking wheel rim by heating it
twice.  Looked great, but after about three days it looked like I had
glued a twisted snake around the rim.  

Wear gloves. Good luck.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: eddins@bert.eecs.uic.edu (Dr. Steven L. Eddins)
Subject: Reproduction of letters (was: Grizzly etc.)
Organization: EECS Dept., University of Illinois at Chicago
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1992 17:35:52 GMT

I have been generally interested in the discussion about Grizzly, but
there's one thing that bothers me a bit.  The recipient of a letter
owns the physical copy he receives, but the sender retains all rights
to reproduce the letter.  My source for this statement is the _Chicago
Manual of Style_, which has a section on obtaining reprint
permissions.

I was not aware of this until recently, and I thought others might be
interested to know about it.

-- 
Steve Eddins	
eddins@holst.eecs.uic.edu 	(312) 996-5771 		FAX: (312) 413-0024
University of Illinois at Chicago, EECS Dept., M/C 154, 1120 SEO Bldg,
Box 4348, Chicago, IL  60680
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking