HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: lihan@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Bruce G. Bostwick)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Lithium Type 76 batt. - any?
Date: 20 Aug 92 18:57:59 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin, Austin TX

In article <fred-mckenzie-180892144648@128.159.169.79> fred-mckenzie@ksc.nasa.gov (Fred McKenzie) writes:
>In article <7850@lee.SEAS.UCLA.EDU>, dchien@boole.seas.ucla.edu (David H.
>Chien) wrote:
>>      I'm looking for a longer lasting Type 76 button battery.  I'm using silver
>> oxides now, but my camera eats them up like Apple Jacks.  Are there lithium
>> replacements available?
>
>Is there something wrong with your camera to eat the batteries so quickly? 
>If so, a lithium replacement may not do any better.
>
>The problem replacing the #76 cell, is that the chemistry used in the
>common lithium cell, produces a voltage of about 3 volts.  A #76 silver
>oxide cell produces a voltage of 1.5 volts.
>
>There is a fairly common 3 volt lithium battery that occupies the space of
>two #76 cells, sold by Mallory as the "DL1/3N".  It fits many cameras that
>normally use two cells, and is recommended in some owners manuals. 
>However, some cameras do not perform properly with lithium.  For example,
>the Olympus OM-4 doesn't like them, but the OM-10 seems to work OK.
>
>I've seen the DL1/3N in K-Mart's camera department, but haven't looked for
>them recently.

Has anyone mentioned yet the different voltage-discharge curves for
alkaline, lithium, and silver-oxide batteries?  If it hasn't yet been
brought up, David might want to know that silver oxide stays above
about 90-95% new battery voltage until almost completely exhausted,
while lithium falls off faster and may throw off the meter and timing
circuitry if it gets too far gone.  Alkaline falls off almost
linearly; an alkaline or mercury cell will be almost unusable for
camera purposes after discharging only about 60% of its total energy,
while the slower falloff of AgO will allow more like 95-99% of the
total cell energy to be used ..



-- 
<BGB>
lihan@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu        /     "I can't complain,
(really Bruce Bostwick)        /   but sometimes I still do"
from the great state of TEXAS /         --Joe Walsh--
From: jay@metran.UUCP (Jay Ts)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Kodak Publications (was: Flourencent light question)
Date: 14 Aug 92 21:05:36 GMT
Organization: Metran Technology, Tampa, Florida

gsnow@clark.edu (Gary Snow) writes:
: In article <226@metran.UUCP> jay@metran.UUCP (Jay Ts) writes:
: >
: >If you really want to know about this, I suggest you get a copy of Kodak's
: >Publication E-104, Color Photography Under Fluorescent and High-Intensity
: >Discharge Lamps.  Call Kodak at 1-800-242-2424.
: 
: Does anyone have a list of Publications by Kodak and other Camera/Lens/Film

For Kodak's, just call the above number and ask for Publication L-1.

Jay Ts
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au (Paul Repacholi)
Subject: Re: media permanence
Organization: Curtin University of Technology
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 15:13:41 GMT

In article <22245@venera.isi.edu>, finn@isi.edu (Greg Finn) writes:
> In article <1992Aug20.001750.17439@pbhya.PacBell.COM> whheydt@PacBell.COM (Wilson Heydt) writes:
> 
...
> 	I doubt that paper tape is used on a significant scale now.  I
> never claimed that there weren't some old digital technologies still
> around, just that they are now insignificant.  Other than for
> mini-computers and ASR 33 ttys, paper tape never had much of a
> following from what I remember.  Certainly not by comparison with
> Hollerith cards.
> 

Paper tape is STILL in great use in CNC machining, and phototype setters

> 	Go back 20 years.  Cards had about a 70 year run as a
> widespread, successful digital storage medium.  Tapes and then hard
> disks killed off cards.  When was the last time that you saw a
> reader/punch station in a computer center?  Yet in 1970 virtually
> every computer center had one and at least one room full of 026 or 029
> model punch stations.  Trivia: Ever carry around your own Fortran drum
> card?
> --

026 or 029 format? My CM-11 card reader is fine thank you. I have a card deck
from ~1970 that is the ONLY known copy of the disk control software from the
first PDP-6. If all else fails, you can read the printing at the top of the
card with your eyes.

~Paul
From: sjm1@eng.cam.ac.uk (Stephen Mounsey)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: crossword clue really annoying me
Date: 13 Aug 92 10:50:07 GMT
Organization: cam.eng

zlsiida@fs1.mcc.ac.uk (dave budd) writes:

>1. Fish, photographer (6) 
>7. Divided agricultural area or add-on lens (5-5)

>   + 
>  +++I+F+E+D            1. is the down clue
>   +                    7. is the across clue 
>   A
>   +
>   T

>All I can think of for 7 is SPLITFIELD but then I can't get anything that 
>makes sense for 1.

>Grrrrr


Is there a photographer called Spratt? Should have a "sounds like" for the
fish part, though. What's the crossword?

                          -Stephen.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: wjh@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (william.j.hery)
Subject: Re: Olympus Infinity (looks like an AF-1)
Organization: AT&T
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 03:08:11 GMT

>I have just bought a Olympus Infinity from a second-hand shop , there
>were no instructions..but thats no hassle I can use it ok !. What I need
>to know are 
>1.  What speed films can the DX coding recognise

It rounds down to one of the following: 50, 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600,
3200. That might be part of the reason that the pictures I took with a
mostly snow were overexposed...

>2.  Dont tell me you cant switch the damn flash off !

The little button next to the lightning bolt on top cycles through the
four flash settings (which are indicated on the display on top): auto,
auto-s (redeye prevention), off, and fill-in. Unfortunately, every time you
open the front it resets to auto.

>3.  A rough idea of shutter speed and aperture range would be
>interesting.

f/3.5 & 1/15 to f/16 & 1/500 for ISO 100 film.

Also worth knowing is that the half of the inside of the battery in
the display goes away when the battery is low.

Bill Hery
AT&T Bell Labs
201-386-2362
hery@att.COM
From: feltman@hpscit.sc.hp.com (Robert Feltman)
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 20:26:36 GMT
Subject: Re: Zone system
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Clara, CA
Newsgroups: rec.photo

If you are seriously considering B&W you should spend some time 
"learning" the Zone system. Adams book is very comprehensive, and
in my opinion should wind up in your library. A more concise intro
to the Zone system is found in the book "Zone VI Workshop" by Fred
Picker. It is available by mail or in well stocked photo stores.
Freds book is somthing like a "jump start" into the Zone system 
and will serve to get you up and running fairly fast.

The Zone system (you hopefully will get other perspectives) is a means
by which the photographer can effectively control/predict where on 
 a (the) tone/zone scale a metered value will fall in the finished print.
In that regard the system includes thinking about film exposure, film develop-
ment, and the printing process which will (all) be involved in producing
the final (fine) print. Of neccessity, the calibration of YOUR equipment,
materials (film,chemicals,paper etc.) and methods serves as the foundation
for using the system.

Calibration is included in both of the above books.

Have fun,

Bob Feltman
From: gsnow@clark.edu (Gary Snow)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Airshows
Date: 12 Aug 92 15:52:48 GMT
Organization: Clark College, Vancouver, Wa.  USA

In article <92224.150105U40348@uicvm.uic.edu> U40348@uicvm.uic.edu (Jay Lorenzana) writes:
>
>I just got my pictures (airshow) back and I'm a bit dissapointed.  I
>thought I new what I was doing but...
>
>What is the proper way to take pictures at an airshow?
>                                                           ^f/5.6
>I used a Nikkon 70-210mm zomm, 400asa, polarizer, and 1/500^. This gave
>a exposure reading of + 2 stops my meter gave.  I compensated because
>I thought the planes would silhowette over the sky.
>
>Turns out the planes were still underexposed and blurred.  I knew
>I was taking a chance at 1/500 and I thought my panning improved--mistake.
>
>What should I have done?  Would 1/1000 with a meter reading of an
>aircraft on the ground produce better effects?   In order to shoot
>at 1/1000 I would either sacrifice my polarizer or get a faster lens.
>By the way, I did meter an A-10 on the ground and got: 1/250 f/5.6
>with my 400 asa and polarizer.

I do alot of airshows, and "sometimes" get silhouette aircraft, but this
rarely happens.

What camera are you using, and could it be possible that your camera was
metering incorectly?  Where was the sun in relation to you and the aircraft,
and was it a sunny day, or overcast. 1/500 is usually sufficient to stop
incomming aircraft, and too fast for propeller planes, as it tends to
stop their propellers without blurring them.

Gary

-- 
-----
Gary Snow
uunet!clark!gsnow  or  gsnow@clark.edu
From: neilw@informix.com (Neil Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Has anyone used Fuji NGH 400 35mm professional film?
Keywords: Fuji NGH 400
Date: 12 Aug 92 00:02:30 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

In article <12869@inews.intel.com> kjarman@sedona.intel.com writes:
>
>	I've had a couple questions/problems with Fuji NHG 400 35mm film.
>First, does any one have any experience with it (ie; portraits/weddings)?
>Second, did you have any problems?
>	I first heard about it from an article in Shutter Bug about a year ago.
>It gave it great reviews for use in weddings and portrait photography.
>I've used it for both, and have had mixed reactions.
>	At one wedding I did recently, we did all of the family and couple 
>pictures before the ceremony in a church. To make sure all were well lighted I
>took along my Novatron 600 studio lighting. I used two heads and umbrellas, 
>and set the power pack to full power. I used a Minolta 4 flash meter and a  
>Minolta 7000i with a sigma 28-80 lens. I don't recall any of the settings used,
>I just manually set the camera to what ever the light meter said. (I have 
>always had good results shooting this setup at my home studio.) The 3x5 proofs 
>looked fairly good, but when they ordered some 5x7 and 8x10 reprints, the 
>results were horrible. Poor color, and extremely grainy. I thought at first it 
>must be the lab I had process the film and make the reprints. So I took it to 
>another lab that specializes in professional photography. The color was much 
>better but the grain was still apparent. 

Good lord!  You used a film you had never tested before on a
shoot?

Were you being paid for this, or did you provide the service
for free?  If you were paid, are you planning on providing some
compensation to the wedding couple?

--Neil

-- 
Neil Williams: neilw@informix.com

Seen on my last trip on United: "If you are seated in an exit row 
and can not (sic) read this card... please notify a crew member."
From: duane@cbnewsj.cb.att.com (duane.galensky)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Cambridge.
Date: 18 Aug 92 17:07:47 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: AT&T


it's a shame the owner of cambridge isn't on the net.  maybe
faxing some of these coments to the store might help.

i wouldn't deal with these people if they were the last
store on earth.
From: jimc@tau-ceti.isc-br.com (Jim Cathey)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Sigma 600mm f/8 Reflex on AF cameras?
Date: 15 Aug 92 15:41:54 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: ISC - Bunker Ramo, Spokane, WA

In article <86238@netnews.upenn.edu> liang@saul.cis.upenn.edu (Chuck Liang) writes:
>>> Has anyone used Sigma's 600mm reflex lens with an AF camera?
>>> What limitations are there in addition to the fixed aperature and
>>> manual focus?  Does the camera's AF sensor still work? In other words,
>>> does that 'in focus' indicator light up when the picture is in focus?

>>give with multipliers. On EOS cameras I set the mode to Av, set the aperture
>>to f1 and exposures are correct.

>...  If it has the electrical contacts, you should be able to use 
>regular metering and the in-focus signal.

I use one occasionally.  It seems nicely built, but I've never been all
that happy with it.  It is awfully slow at f/8, and the contrast seems
to be 'off' a little.  Playing 'spot the 600' with K25 slides I've taken 
isn't even fun, it's too easy.  It is unclear to me whether or not this
is inherent to a mirror lens, whether it's just atmospheric haze and
other similar effects, or whether the Sigma's just not that hot.  I
don't have the Canon 600mm f/4 to compare it against!

Anyway, here's what I remember: There are _no_ electrical contacts, and
you have to use the Av f/1 setting (or manual).  The metering works fine
then.  The AF sensor does work but the lens is so fiddly to focus (being
such a long length) that you get better results just by looking, though
this isn't easy because it's f/8.  A split focusing screen helps on
mine, but all you poor Rebel/10s/Elan saps have to do without (thanks
bunches, Canon). 

Some day I'll probably replace my two Sigma lenses (400 5/6 APO & f/8
mirror) with the Canon 300 f/4 and the two teleconverters.  Not for
a while though.

-- 
+----------------+
! II      CCCCCC !  Jim Cathey
! II  SSSSCC     !  ISC-Bunker Ramo
! II      CC     !  TAF-C8;  Spokane, WA  99220
! IISSSS  CC     !  UUCP: uunet!isc-br!jimc (jimc@isc-br.isc-br.com)
! II      CCCCCC !  (509) 927-5757
+----------------+
			"PC's --- the junk bonds of the computer industry"
From: tcheung@gandalf.rutgers.edu (Tak Cheung)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Zoom lens recommendations for Minolta X700 series
Date: 17 Aug 92 18:18:31 GMT
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

I am not too satisfied with a Vivitar Series 2 zoom lens (F2.8-3.5, 28-150mm),
for my Minolta X700.

I would welcome any suggestion on a replacement for the Vivitar lens.

Is the Minolta lens any sharper than the Vivitar ??

Please email or post to this group.

Tak Cheung
From: dtraylor@norfolk.vak12ed.edu (David O. Traylor)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: What is a color meter? (was Flourencent light question)
Date: 19 Aug 92 21:32:12 GMT
Organization: Virginia's Public Education Network (Norfolk)

I used to work for Rosco Labs as a specialist in lighting
filtration for the motion picture industry and have had a lot
of experience using color temp. meters mostly the Minolta.Be
advised that these meters are great if you are measuring a true
black body source i.e. incandescent, but they are not anywhere
near as accurate on discontinuous sources. Discontinous sources
include, unfortunately, almost all of the sources used in
commercial buildings such as metal halide, mercury vapor and
high pressure sodium. 

These meters work by taking readings at specific colores and
then extrapolating it mathmatically to the whole color
spectrum. It assumes however that it is looking at a black body
source with a fairly even distribution of wavelenghths
throughout the visible spectrum. Those of us that have looked
at the SED (spectral energy distribution) curves of the
discharge sources (and this includes fluorescents), know that
they can have a ton of energy at one wavelength and practically
none at an adjacent wavelength.

What all this means is that while a color meter is an excellent
tool to give you some idea of what you are dealing with, you
CAN NOT take what it says as gospel. If you need to get truly
accurate color with mixed sources, the best and only way is to
make a good guess at lighting and lens filtration, shoot a
test, and then make adjustments and shoot again.

For more information on lighting filtration, Rosco publishes an
excellent book called Filter Facts. You can get a copy by
writing to :  Rosco Labs
	      36 Bush Avenue
	      Port Chester, NY 10573

I can also be reached if you have a specific lighting
filtration question and you need to talk specifics.
From: fiddler@concertina.Eng.Sun.COM (steve hix)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Focal length rip-off. Coincidence?
Date: 12 Aug 1992 18:23:59 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Mt. View, Ca.
NNTP-Posting-Host: concertina

In article <1992Aug11.210014.8513@bony1.bony.com> jake@bony1.bony.com (Jake Livni) writes:
>In article <1992Aug6.023324.24556@eskimo.celestial.com> wix@eskimo.celestial.com (Dennis Wicks) writes:
>
>>  Returning to the original subject, has anyone seen any tests where
>>  the lenses being tested _did_ measure at the indicated F.L.?  I am
>>  wondering how widespread this discrepancy might be.
>
>My old Speed Graphic has a lens marked 101 mm.  That's right - 101 mm.
>I wonder what they might have called that today...

They used to call them 4-inch taking lenses.  They'd probably call it
a 100mm lens...unless marketing got loose and went for something exotic.








--
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Of making many books there is no end...  |  What's wrong with chasing 
                       -- Eccl. 12:12    |  nebulae till 3 am?  |-(
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: badboy@netcom.com (Jay Keller)
Subject: View Camera Questions
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 92 06:48:32 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)

I am new to view cameras.

Does anyone know what is the difference between a Zone VI field camera
and a Tachihara?  I have the latter, which I've inherited from my late father's
estate.  It is about 12 years old.

Also, what is meant by "yaw free" movements, as in the Sinar and other V.C.
ads?

Finally, can someone provide me the address of Zone VI please?

Regards,

Jay Keller
Sunnyvale, California
From: hasn@midway.uchicago.edu (Sheheryar Hasnain)
Subject: Enlarger vs. Slide Projector
Organization: University of Chicago
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 18:41:36 GMT

This is probably sound silly, but what does an enlarger do that a slide 
projector can't.  Basically, what difference does it make whether one uses 
a slide projector versus an enlarger.  They both project images don't they?
Sheheryar
From: cmcdowel@en.ecn.purdue.edu (Charles E. McDowell)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Hasselblad/Medium Format Digest.
Date: 17 Aug 92 06:44:12 GMT
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network

If you would be interested in being added to the mailing list for the
Hasselblad / Medium Format Digest, a semi-moderated digest dedicated to
discussion about medium format equipment and techniques, send your mail
address to:  cmcdowel@ecn.purdue.edu.   Please put your address in the body
of the letter, don't rely on the header.

[ Charles McDowell                   Purdue University - Lafayette, Indiana ]
[ cmcdowel@ecn.purdue.edu            School of Electrical Engineering       ]
From: DH02@polytec1.polymtl.ca (DH02000)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: RE: Cambridge.
Date: 14 Aug 92 18:56:21 GMT
Organization: Ecole Polytechnique de Montreal

In article <1992Aug13.211408.24283@en.ecn.purdue.edu> cmcdowel@en.ecn.purdue.edu (Charles E. McDowell) writes:
>I am posting this message as a warning to anyone who is considering ordering
>any photo supplies through a place called Cambridge Camera in New York.
>Without going into detail, these guys are extreme sleazballs.  Their ads appear

How appropriately said!  I must describe my experience too.  I wanted
I wanted to buy a Nikon F4s and Nikkor lenses, SB-24, filters, etc.
I looked thru Pop. Photo and Cambridge caught my attentionb'cos their
ad was the first and big (so I assumed it was a big store) and they
actually had letters from 2 or 3 "happy" customers (oh yeah!).  And
their prices seemed to be the lowest. So I called them up.  Actually
I had called 2 or 3 other places but no one had everything in stock, but
these guys had everything in stock and promised to ship it out
in 8-9 days!  I must add here that the guys weren't anywhere near
polite.  They had a distinct "East-European" accent and so I reasoned
that they were probably recent immigrants and had problems speaking
English! Anyways, my wait started!  I called them up and their standard
reply was, we'er missing a lens (or whatever) and we'll ship it "any
day now".  I wasn't too worried b'cos I had charged it to my credit card
and they "take care of it" and that I imagined that my order was too
complicated and big! After about 30 days I just happened to type "RN"
on my computer, and there was Rec.Photo and in it was a survey of
mail order places.  I realized what I had done, and the next morning
called up Cambridge and cancelled my order!  Thankfully it was already
30 days after I had placed the order and so they couldn't argue, but the
guy said that he had the order packed on his desk it was ready to go (oh
yeah, I believe you!).  I also wrote a letter to Pop. Photo. Check rated
Service around June 15th, chronologically listing the responses and
pointing out the contradictions, but haven't heard from them yet!

The same afternoon, I placed my order with B+H.  I got everything
that I wanted 2 days later. My only (minor) complaint was that I was
charged about $25 extra for each of the 2 Nikkor lenses for US warranty.

So that's that! Beau Weekend!

-Tamal Ghosh
 Departement de Genie chimique
 Ecole Polytechnique de Montreal

"The only city in the world where you hear French spoken with an
English accent and English spoken with a French accent"
From: Robert_Klein@mindlink.bc.ca (Robert Klein)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Picture File
Date: 20 Aug 92 20:09:39 GMT
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada

Looking for suggestions for either shareware or relatively inexpensive IBM
software for neg and picture file management. I have seen several advertised in
Photo District News that look good, but I am reluctant to do anything by
mail,(who's been burned??),unless recommended.Anybody know about: Picture File
Plus; Phototrack; or whatever.I do not need an accounting-linked package.
From: jay@metran.UUCP (Jay Ts)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Me and E6
Date: 12 Aug 92 18:25:52 GMT
Organization: Metran Technology, Tampa, Florida

rslugg@med.unc.edu (Robert Slugg) writes:
: E-6 can be made in pints,
: which just happens to be the size of my 2 roll patterson tank, and at 4-6
: rolls per pint the chemistry stays good (IMHO) for a year as concentrates,

I just want to check on something.  I was considering an E-6 gallon kit,
but without a Jobo, and no re-use of solutions, I would only be able to
process 16 rolls, which is really not very economical.

Now, people are posting that the E-6 chemistry can be re-used (without
loss of quality, I hope).  If I were to re-use the solutions twice, as
suggested above, would the development times need to be extended, as with
the Hobby Pac?

Jay Ts
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: troyb@oz.plymouth.edu (Troy Bennet)
Subject: Re: Has anyone used Fuji NGH 400 35mm professional film? YES
Reply-To: troyb@oz.plymouth.edu (Troy Bennet)
Organization: Plymouth State College - Plymouth, N.H.
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 92 15:21:08 GMT

Has anyone out there actually pushed NHG400?  I've pushed VPH to 800
in my Rollicord with very good results.  The 8x10's matched the 8x10's
that I got from the 35mm VPS (as far as grain size), which made for a
seamless transition in the wedding album.  I'd hate to think what
8x10's from 35mm negs would have looked like!

Anyway, I switched to NHG at the beginning of this wedding season for
the no flash ceremony shots.  Unfortunately, I have a shoot in the
darkest church I've ever worked in ( sheesh, those Gothic architects
really wanted to put the fear of God in parishners eh?).  I am going
to need a two stop push on the NHG.  Has anyone ever pushed the NHG
to higher than standard EI's?  If so, what were the results?

If worse comes to worse, I'll end up shooting it on Tmax 400 and hand
coloring the pictures.  I really would rather not have that kind of
discrepency in the album though.

Clues? Help?

HELP!!

troyb