HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 4 Jan 1993 11:04:55 EDT
From:         CELLIS@BROCKVMA.BITNET
Subject:      Re: Biscuit Adapter for Sear's Routers
              4 Jan 1993 14:34:22 GMT from <marulli@KODAK.KODAK.COM>

As for Sears adapter to turn router into biscuit machine - I have it and
have used it about 8 or 10 times ok.  use is different than I have seen
Norm do - you have to move router to get length cut (guide marks are on
attachment) instead of lining up on one line and pushing handle but it
does work and is a lot less than dedicated machine.  For casual use - good
price.

***********************************************************************
Carlton Ellis                  *   BITNET CELLIS@BROCKVMA
Administrative Computing       *
State University of New York   *
College at Brockport           *
***********************************************************************
From: ag900@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (David Burris)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Norm's New Season
Date: 9 Jan 1993 00:37:15 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: ag900@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (David Burris)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc4.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, weissborn@DFWVX1.DALLAS.SDS.SLB.COM () says:

>
>The Grizzly is cheaper than the Delta Model, and better made than the AMT.  The
>Jet model is almost as good as Delta but $100 more than Grizzly.
>
> 8-)
The Grizzly model, although I have never actually seen one, is probably
your typical taiwan clone that you'd have to send back anyway.8*)

-- 
ag900@cleveland.freenet.edu

From: bwm@hprnd.rose.hp.com (Bruce Melvin)
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 17:00:02 GMT
Subject: Re: Quality of tools.  Was: Re: AMT tools?
Organization: HP Roseville Networks Division
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

I believe Grizzly imports has the same or very similiar tools for much less.

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: hubcap@hubcap.clemson.edu (System Janitor)
Subject: Re: Norm's New Season
Organization: Clemson University
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 17:13:19 GMT


>The problem is that with only a circular saw and a sander you can't
>make very many interesting projects. 

That's got to be true, but it's still fun to try. I made Norm's 
Adirondack chairs with a circular saw, a sawzall and a drill.
I made three out of douglas fir (picked all the straight grain out of 
the stack at Home Depot) and one from some salvaged Redwood. Brass screws,
Redwood and water don't mix by the way :-).

Either everyone is being too polite, or everyone likes them.

-Mike
From: lff@sequent.com (Lou Fernandez)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: custom router bits?
Date: 8 Jan 93 20:27:49 GMT
Article-I.D.: sequent.1993Jan8.202749.13510
Distribution: usa
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems Inc.

In article <1993Jan8.180121.15779@cbfsb.cb.att.com> corwin@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (carl.w.smedberg) writes:
>
>I'm in the process of making copy of a cabinet and I can't seem
>to figure out how to duplicate the edge detail on the door.
>The profile is about an 3/16th inch deep and 11/16ths of an inch wide. 
>Its made up of a cove and a step crudely illustrated below.
>
>	 ----------\ 
> 	            \___
>   	                |_
>	       	          |
>	                  |
>	                  |
>	                  |
>	                  |
>			  |
>	 ------------------
>	
>I've been through several catalogs full of router bits but even 
>multiple passes with different bits won't seem to produce the same
>results. 

Maybe I'm missing something, but why can't you first cut the step with a
rabbeting bit and then cut the cove with cove bit?  If your cove bit has
a bearing guide, you would probably have to run the doors vertically
because the bearing would be thicker than the step.  Or you could remove
the bearing.

>Carl Smedberg
>att!ihlpm!corwin

Good luck,
...Lou

-- 
Louis F. Fernandez			Sequent Computer Systems
lfernandez@sequent.com			Beaverton, OR 97006-6063
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis)
Subject: Re: Advice on used tools
Followup-To: rec.woodworking
Organization: OSF Research Institute
Date: 11 Jan 93 18:50:12

In article <berry-110193123131@si.chem.upenn.edu> berry@a.chem.upenn.edu (Don Berry) writes:

   ...There are two 16in Delta bandsaws to choose from: a newer one
   wired for 3phase 220V, and an older model wired for 115V.  My home
   shop doesn't have 220V at all, but I was considering running more
   circuits anyways.  Any opinions whether I'd be better off (1)
   adding 3phase 220 and buying the newer machine, (2) changing the
   motor on the newer machine, or (3) sticking with the 115V older
   machine?...

I can't compare the two machines, but as for "adding 3ph 220", this is
almost never economical in a home shop.  It would mean either getting
a new utility connection at a price of $1000 up, or putting in a phase
converter, which is essentially a specially-wired three-phase motor
you have to kick-start.

Buying a new motor makes more sense, unless you're planning to put in
several three-phase tools.

	-s

PS Three-phase is widely thought to be more "efficient".  False.  Its
main advantage is high starting torque.  It also allows the use of
smaller-gauge wiring (big deal).
From: kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM (John Kopf,D,6305)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Old Finishes/Refinishing
Date: 7 Jan 93 18:11:33 GMT
Reply-To: kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems

Before you do anything else, try to verify if the "flaking finish" might really be
a "flaking REfinish"...the leaves of such a table are frequently used for special
occasions, and it is the "end" pieces that take a beating.  It is possible that you
have ends that have been refinished badly (as opposed to the original finish having
deteriorated).  If so, the repair coat may have been incompatable with the original
coat, which is still under it on the wood...it may be possible to remove the flaking
coat and return to the original finish, which can then (perhaps) be repaired.

JK
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: micki@netcom.com (Michelle Stone)
Subject: Re: Wood-Mizer review
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 18:13:57 GMT

HUNTRESS GARY B <HUNTRESS@NPT.NUSC.NAVY.MIL> writes:

>Well, the tree cuttin' guys came and dropped my neighbors cherry
>tree last monday.  They limbed and chipped for a while and I was
>left with two 10' logs roughly 30" in diameter.

Drool drool drool!

;)

Michelle

-- 
micki@netcom.com

By the way.  I find myself to be a recent addition to the 
unemployment statistic.  I am a software manager living
in silicon valley.  If you know of an opportunity, please
let me know!


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: brown@venus.iucf.indiana.edu (Robert J. Brown)
Subject: Re: Sale on Quick-Grip clamps
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.3-4   
Reply-To: brown@venus.iucf.indiana.edu
Organization: IUCF
Distribution:  world
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 19:19:00 GMT

In article <1993Jan5.164020.7672@tessi.com>, allen@tessi.com (Allen Warren) writes...
>berry@a.chem.upenn.edu (Don Berry) writes:
> 
> 
>>    For comparison, Woodworker's Supply sells the 36in
>>clamp for $25, and the mini-clamps for $14 each.
> 
>>Size   price    item #
> 
>>6in   $10.99   04489-1WJA
>>12     13.99   04490-0WJA
>>18     14.99   04491-1WJA
>>24     16.99   04492-2WJA
>>36     18.99   04493-1WJA
>>6in mini-bar clamp (set of 2)  $14.69  (item #01034-6WJA)
> 
>>Harbor Freight:  (800) 423-2567
> 
>>Note that the special prices are linked to the specific
>>item numbers listed in the flyer; no item #, no sales price. 
> 
> 
> 
>Don,
> 
>Thanks for the great info.!  My only question is (and I
>haven't called Harbor Freight yet), would S&H bring the
>prices closer to what prices would be at other stores?
> 
>allen

  I also got a copy of the sale catalog yesterday and noticed the
great price on the clamps. I also noted that Harbor Freight has
FREE shipping!! (for orders $50 and higher) Don't know what the
shipping would be for a $14 order though.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: EPLUS17@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu (Richard Engelbrecht-Wiggans)
Subject: Re: Amish; was: Re: WARNING (response to...)
Organization: C.C.S.O.
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 01:23:23 GMT

In article <C0p8Kt.M3x@athena.cs.uga.edu>
mcovingt@aisun3.ai.uga.edu (Michael Covington) writes:
 
>
>My understanding -- and this may be completely wrong -- is that the Amish
>use air power rather than electrical power in order to avoid a connection
>to a utility system.  That is, they feel that being connected to an outside
>utility system would make them vulnerable to outside control.
>
>Is that anything like a correct understanding of it?
>--
This is not what I was told.  The explanation involved something
about stationary versus mobil engines.  If it were simply a desire
to be independent of the power company (I can sympathsize :)), why
not generate electricity with whatever currently powers the compressor;
this way, at least you could use over-the-counter tools?
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 8 Jan 1993 09:45:15 EDT
From:         CELLIS@BROCKVMA.BITNET
Subject:      Re: Plans for an Entertainment Center
              8 Jan 1993 14:36:07 GMT from <larrym@SSEC.WISC.EDU>

On Fri, 8 Jan 1993 14:36:07 GMT Larry McGuire said:
>Can anyone point me to a source for plans for an Entertainment Center?
>
I have a very good set of plans with video tape I got from Woodworking
Unlimited with my shopsmith.  It is planned for later this year (after
the "Norm Abrams Shaker Pencil Bed" project.  There is also a very nice one
in the New Yankee Workshop books (Daltons, Walden, etc. bookstores), that
looks very much like one currently on sale at Ethan Allen Furniture stores
for $2,199.00.  Good luck.

***********************************************************************
Carlton Ellis                  *   BITNET CELLIS@BROCKVMA
Administrative Computing       *
State University of New York   *
College at Brockport           *
***********************************************************************
From: norm@strobe.ATC.Olivetti.Com (Norm Carpenter x3055)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Ball and wood clock
Date: 5 Jan 93 21:34:40 GMT

A while back someone posted a request for information or plans on building
one of those wood and bearing clocks.  This that type that has a ball bearing,
marble, or someother round device carried to the top of a ramp every minute.
at each increment of 5 minutes, an hour, and half a day, one ramp dumps and
the balls fall to the next level.  
Noon and Midnight are a little noisy.

I would also like to build one of these and I was wondering if the original
poster had any success or if any of you have a pointer to the plans?

Thanks,

Norm (not Abrams, but) Carpenter

*******************************************************************************
norm@oliveb.OLIVETTI.COM

                 "Watch this space." -- Acme Advertising
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: donne+@pitt.edu (Jeffrey D Donne)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bunk Bed Plans
Date: 7 Jan 93 21:16:10 GMT
Organization: University of Pittsburgh


   I am in the midst of building some bunk beds for my kids.  I 
decided to build the beds using the style of a store called
"This End Up".  The designs are simple, and extremely rugged and
sturdy.  If you would like more info, let me know.  The store
is a national chain, so you should be able to find a store to
see them in person.

Jeff D.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bryan@isrc.sandia.gov (Jon R Bryan)
Subject: Re: DeWalt biscuit jointer, first look, question.
Organization: Sandia National Labs, Org. 1600, Albq., NM
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 21:16:26 GMT

ryan@netnews.smithkline.com (Dominic Ryan) writes:
: I just received my new DeWalt biscuit jointer.  I bought it from Tool Crib
: for $229.
      ^^^^!  Ooh, and my birthday is next week!

: When the blade is running is *sounds* as though it was rattling a little,
: the sound is particularly evident as it slows down when the motor noise has
: faded some.

Some angle grinders (a closely related tool) have a characteristic rattle.
In fact, I was just listening to one outside my door just now.  I
suspect some backlash in the gears causes it, but maybe it's the type of
motor they use.  You might check the fan, too.

-- 
Jon R. Bryan	(505) 844-2015	<=>	bryan@isrc.sandia.gov
Sandia National Laboratories, Intelligent System Sensors and Controls
 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis)
Subject: Re: sealer (?) for wooden double-hung windows
Followup-To: rec.woodworking
Organization: OSF Research Institute
Distribution: usa
Date: 11 Jan 93 18:28:23

In article <C0p5oM.Jwr@cmcl2.nyu.edu> mckenney@cims.nyu.edu (Alan M. McKenney) writes:

   [sealer] to keep [wooden] sashes from absorbing water?  Varnish or
   paint is out of the question, as...it would make the windows
   impossible to open or shut.  Ideally, it should also reduce the
   wood-to-metal and wood-to-painted/varnished-wood friction.

Sliding surfaces should indeed never be painted or varnished.  They
should be waxed with Butcher's wax.  This will certainly lubricate
them, and may help seal them as well.

	-s
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: guy@slustl.slu.edu (Guy Smith)
Subject: Re: sanding/cabinets
Organization: Saint Louis University  Saint Louis, MO
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 18:50:15 GMT

In article <q232jwp@rpi.edu> ameres@ithaca.cat.rpi.edu (Eric Ameres) writes:
>rec.wwer's,
>
>been applied.  Current thought is to finish the upper cases and hang
>them to get them out of the way (note I am assuming that hanging the
>doors with them in place won't be a big deal, let me know if you know
>otherwise, I'm using stanley #55 knife hinges).

I've hung cabinets both with and without base cabinets in place. I
find it a bit easier to hang the wall units first. I'd recommend
doing it with the doors off. It reduces the weight a bit and makes
them easier to maneuver. It also eliminates the chance of one of
them opening at an awkward moment. I don't see that hanging the doors
later will be a problem but I'd get the hardware installed first
and then remove them for installation if it's not too difficult (I'm
not familiar with Stanley hinge numbers).
From: patm@hpcvra.cv.hp.com (Pat Megowan)
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 00:43:01 GMT
Subject: Re: Resawing with Delta 16 inch bandsaw
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Corvallis, OR, USA
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

The bandsaw with the 3" blade in the background on TOH looked like the
Hitachi resaw unit (available from Woodworkers Supply of NM and Timbuktu).
A local hardwood guy has one and it is a single purpose unit, but wow does
it resaw. Hell for curves, though.

Pat Megowan
From: hsc@sybase.com (Howard Cohen)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Fix scratch in CD?
Date: 6 Jan 93 05:14:57 GMT
Organization: Sybase, Inc.

I heard from a friend (Tim Wood) that a Staedtler eraser works extremely well.
These are the white erasers that you might use while drafting, or if you dislike
the stains that most colored erasers leave on paper.  They are apparently 
quite pure, and are effective in buffing out defects in the CD surface.

He recommended using a raidial radial motion (from the hole to the edge and 
back) as opposed to rubbing in the direction of rotation.  I gave him a CD
which had obvious, visible damage to one portion.  That portion failed to play
on every CD player I tried (his too).  He repaired it as described, and it 
works *perfectly*.  He first tried toothpaste, but that was not very effective,
and left behind some benign defects as a result.

I hypothesize that a completely flat surface isn't really required for a CD 
to be usable.  What is required is that the CD laser be able to read the 
information below the surface of the CD.  As long as the surface is 
transparent, and not too curved, the laser can probably focus.  Buffing with
the eraser likely only smoothes and polishes the surface.  So perhaps the
laser sees an oval intead of a circle.  No matter: it isn't interpreting art.
Astigmatic or not, its either black or white.

	Howard
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  Howard "I wood if I could" Cohen
  hsc@sybase.com  {pacbell,pyramid,sun,{uunet,ucbvax}!mtxinu}!sybase!hsc
  Sybase, Inc.    6475 Christie Avenue, Emeryville, CA 94608, 510-596-3406 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: marulli@kodak.kodak.com (Dave x71244/RDCS/2-205-KO)
Subject: Biscuit Adapter for Sear's Routers
Organization: Eastman Kodak Co.
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 93 14:34:22 GMT

Has anyone tried the adapter that Sear's sells for their routers that turns 
it into a biscuit joiner? It's about $40, so I don't have much faith in it.

Does it work for occasional home use or is this just another one of those
'make something else from something you have that won't work anywhere near
as good had you bought what you were trying to make in the first place' items?

Thanks for any info anyone has.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: eap@vuse.vanderbilt.edu (Edward A. Parrish)
Subject: Re: Norm's New Season
Organization: Vanderbilt University School of Engineering, Nashville, TN, USA
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 22:33:01 GMT

In article <199301072154.AA13384@tuna.wang.com> STEVE.BUSSELL@OFFICE.WANG.COM ("Steve Bussell") writes:
>For anyone in the Boston area who is interested, the fifth season of New
>Yankee Workshop is scheduled to start.  It will start on Sunday, January
>17th at 7:00 pm on WGBH (channel 2).  I believe the re-broadcast schedule is
>Saturday at 5:00 pm on WGBH and Sunday at 8:00am on WGBX (channel 44).  This
>years theme is English Country furniture.
>
>Steve Bussell

Lucky you in the Boston area. I can't find anything but TOH and
Bob Villa's show in my area of Nashville. Anyone know how to get NYW here?
-- 
Goal: To benefit from the offer for "Free Tools Tomorrow" that
is posted in many store windows.
Standard Disclaimer, of course.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stevep@sparky.se.hou.compaq.com (Steve Pinn)
Subject: Re: Dust Masks for Us 4-Eyed Types
Organization: Compaq Computer Corporation
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 19:28:36 GMT

In article <1993Jan12.135336.340@software.org>, wartik@software.org (Steve Wartik) writes:
|> 
|> Okay, we're all computer jocks as well as woodworkers, right?
|> And computer jocks stare at their screens all day, ruin their
|> vision, and need glasses.  And glasses interefere with all the
|> dust masks I've tried.  Has anyone found a brand of dust mask
|> that works, yet leaves enough of the nose exposed that one's
|> glasses aren't constantly fighting for position?
|> 
|> 				-- Steve Wartik
|> 				   wartik@software.org

Steve, have you thought about the Airstream products (800-328-1792)?  They
sell air flow helmets ($320) but they are said not to interfere with
glasses, beards, earmuffs.

Steve
From: donb@crash.cts.com (Donald Bowen)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Ryobi & Fein Detail Sanders
Date: 5 Jan 93 17:18:32 GMT
Organization: CTS Network Services (crash, ctsnet), El Cajon, CA

In <1993Jan2.010255.1@acad2.alaska.edu> asket@acad2.alaska.edu writes:

>Happy New Year!  I'm about to buy the new Ryobi detail sander (triangular      
>head).  Eagle hardware sells it for $48.  Fein also makes a detail sander
>at about $240.  Is the quality difference really worth that much?  
>  
>Have any of you used these new triangular-head detail sanders?  
>  
>Thanks.      Karl Thoennes

	I bought one to finish a particular project.  I believe that it
was money well spent.  It has been used for several other projects since.
I have not used any of its other features such as the polisher.

	DonB
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-VMS-To: IN%"WOODWORK%IPFWVM.BITNET@pucc.Princeton.EDU"
MIME-version: 1.0
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 8 Jan 1993 08:16:12 -0800
From:         RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM
Subject:      Re: Comments on fold-up outfeed tables for Table Saws

I built my own fold up out feed table (oft) several years ago and have been
quite pleased with it.

Basicaly it's  a sheet of plywood attached to the back of my table saw
stand with a couple of very heavy duty "folding shelf brackets".

I reinforced the oft and ts stand with some 2x4's rounded the oft edge
and cut some slots for the miter gague.

It took some shimming to get the oft co-planer to the ts top (and it needs
a little re-tuning about once a year).

                        Ron Tye (all opinions my own)
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Old Finishes/Refinishing
Date: 5 Jan 93 21:38:40 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.
Originator: davek@puma

Last night I fished a real nice mahogany veneer table out of someone's
trash pile.  This beast has 5 leafs that go into it (11 ft fully
extended).  The only problem is that the finish has come off of the two
"base" leafs (the ones affixed to the base) and is in slightly sad
shape on the two drop leafs.  It appears to be some sort of lightly
tinted varnish.  It can be scraped off easily on the worst leafs (I can
scrape it off with a fingernail).  The 5 removeable leafs are all in very
good shape, and would really only ned a good polishing and cleaning. I'd
guess that the piece dates back about 50 years.

My question is: is anyone familiar with the type of finish used on such
pieces back then?  The finish on the good leaves is very smooth, so I'm
not sure that it would be shellac (the shellaced pieces I've seen have never
been so smooth).  Since it is chipping off, I don't think it would be any sort
of oil.  Would a clear or lightly tinted lacquer behave like this?  I'd
like to refinish this piece and, if possible, recreate the old finish.
Barring that, I suppose I'd have to refinish the whole thing, including
the "good" leafs.  Would regular stripper be safe to use on this (it is
a veneered piece)?  

Are there any good books out there on refinishing antiques that someone
would like to recommend?  I've really only been involved with new
finishes, so this one is kind of new for me.

Thanks for any tips!

Dave
-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
"I look back with some satisfaction on what an idiot I was when I was 25,
 but when I do that, I'm assuming I'm no longer an idiot." - Andy Rooney
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Wed, 6 Jan 1993 08:12:00 -0600
From:         Jeff Roberts <JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: WARNING (response to...)

On Tue, 5 Jan 1993 10:47:11 -0600 David Esan said:
>In article <4320118@hpcc01.corp.hp.com> gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul
 Houtz)
>writes:
>>1.  cause:  Utter stupidity and lack of blade guard on table saw..
>>  I had just crosscut a small length of pine, and one piece was vibrating
>>  over close to the saw blade as the blade was spinning down.  I reached
>>  over to move the piece and one finger hit the blade.  Probably one tooth
>>  of the blade hit my finger tip.  Cut out a nice carbide-tooth shaped piece
>>  of flesh, all the way to the bone..
>
>I did the same thing.  Reached over to remove a piece of scrap with the blade
>going.  Now I have a nice scar on my left middle finger................
>
> <stuff deleted>
>
  A blade guard is obviously the best way to go to keep one from performing
  a digitectomy but I have a thought.  If you must remove the small scrap
  cut off piece from a spinning blade, reach into your tool belt or shirt
  pocket and pull out that pencil you use so often.  Flick the scrap off the
  saw with the pencil instead of with that work of art connected to your
  forearm..

  I've found my pencil to be one of my most useful safety devices.  Using the
  eraser end to help push small pieces through a band saw or scroll saw has
  also saved me from at least one trip to the E.R..

  Jeff Roberts JROBERTS@UTDA
From: pauls@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Paul Stafford)
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 23:16:59 GMT
Subject: Re: What to do after the fact [was WARNING (response to...)]
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Rosa, CA