HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: fossumt@stolaf.edu (Theodore B Fossum)
Subject: Re: Oakly shades
Organization: St. Olaf College, Northfield, MN
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 20:04:15 GMT

In article <37578@uflorida.cis.ufl.edu>, x3420abo@maple.circa.ufl.edu writes:
|> In article <03NOV92.13008151.0076@UNBVM1.CSD.UNB.CA>, E5EM@UNB.CA (E5EM) writes:
|> >
|> > Has anyone out there tried a pair of the new Oakly Sub Zero shades?
|> >I'm thinking of buying a pair and would appreciate any comments.
|> >Also, are they only available in black iridium?
|> My friend has a pair of the new Oakly sunglasses, and I've tried a 
|> pair on not long ago.  They fit incredibly close to the face, hence
|> the small lense size.  They're super-light weight almost to the point
|> of being a wet noodle.  Comfort wise they're great.  Right now they only
|> come in black iridium I think.  Oakly usually comes out with more colors
|> after awhile.  My adivse is to "somehow" break your old Oakly sungalsses
|> and return them for credit and buy the subs with the credit.
|> 


The Subs also come in clear lenses.

From what I have heard, they are actually more of a pair of rec. shades,
like the Frogskins.  Therefore if you want to have something that is a
little stronger and more adaptable, you may want to go with the Mumbos.


_______________________________________________________________________________
It is easy to describe the beautiful painting you have created, when there
is no risk anyone will see it.
Write to: fossumt@stolaf.edu
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"Eat Beaf Stew or go home!!"                    :)
"The best long distance runners eat raw meat, run naked and sleep in the snow"
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: shenry@cs.rice.edu (Sam Henry)
Subject: Re: Nashbar 4000R bike
Organization: Rice University, Houston
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 16:46:16 GMT

In article <1992Nov9.023511.8862@galileo.cc.rochester.edu> hyrh_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Howard Yermish) writes:
>What does anybody think about the Nashbar 4000R bike equipped with
>Suntour Edge components?  ...  How does it compare with the Trek 400? 

SunTour Edge is a mid-level road group. 
It fits into the SunTour range between Radius and Blaze. There are two
groups below the Blaze and two above the Radius.
Roughly, that is about where Shimano 400 road stuff fits in the
Shimano hierarchy.

I have a personal bias towards SunTour stuff, and have both Shimano
and SunTour on bikes.

-- 
sam henry <shenry@rice.edu>
Wanna ride?
From: markhill@dcs.warwick.ac.uk (M Hill)
Subject: Re: Oakly shades
Organization: Department of Computer Science, Warwick University, England
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 12:24:25 GMT

In article <37578@uflorida.cis.ufl.edu> x3420abo@maple.circa.ufl.edu writes:
>In article <03NOV92.13008151.0076@UNBVM1.CSD.UNB.CA>, E5EM@UNB.CA (E5EM) writes:
>>
>My adivse is to "somehow" break your old Oakly sungalsses
>and return them for credit and buy the subs with the credit.
>

Does this mean that Oakley offer some sort of repair or replacement type facility?
Do we get a discount as a prior customer? Should I have mailed in the registration
card? Damn, I've probably lost it already!

Mark
From: fhuang@eniac.seas.upenn.edu (RECKLESS ABANDON)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Ritchey Tires
Date: 5 Nov 92 06:11:13 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Pennsylvania


   Anyone have any opinions on Ritchey tires (mainly the W.C.S. ones).
Also, what about the I.R.C. and Tioga tires?

-bogueman
From: hyrh_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Howard Yermish)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Nashbar 4000R bike
Date: 9 Nov 92 02:35:11 GMT
Organization: University of Rochester (Rochester, NY)

What does anybody think about the Nashbar 4000R bike equipped with
Suntour Edge components?  Has anyone had any bad experiences with
this bike?  How does it compare with the Trek 400?  Does anybody
have any suggestions of similar bikes ($300 - $400 range) that come 
in a 17" frame size and/or use 26" wheels?

Thanks in advance.


----
Howard Yermish		hyrh_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: shenry@cs.rice.edu (Sam Henry)
Subject: Re: Girvin Flex-Stem on Road Bikes
Organization: Rice University, Houston
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 21:55:44 GMT

In article <1drrhlINN9gj@male.EBay.Sun.COM>
warriors@eb5ts4.EBay.Sun.COM (Dave Maycon) writes: 
>... I was wondering if it would be a good idea to put the
>shock-obsorbing Girvin Flex-Stem on.  ... for a time trial bike.

Huh?
Somehow, this seems contradictory.
I did check twice to seed if this was Dave Harvey.
-- 
sam henry <shenry@rice.edu>
Wanna ride?
From: frankb@hpsad.sad.hp.com (Frank Ball)
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 22:15:06 GMT
Subject: Re: charging lead acid batteries
Organization: HP Signal Analysis Division - Rohnert Park, CA
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech


*I want to buy a 12 volt, 3 amp-hour lead acid battery to use in a 
*lighting system that I am building.  Following the 1/10th rule, I need to use
*a charger that delivers 300 milliamps.  I have a wall converter that is rated
*at 300 milliamps & 12 volts.  Can I use this to charge the battery?  What is 
*involved with doing this?  Do I have to guess at the charge time, or is there
*some way that I can calculate this?  Can I use this power source as a trickle
*charger?  Any info would be helpful, since I will base my battery purchase on
*this info.  Thanks!
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-       
The 1/10 rule is for Ni-cads.  I have recharged 3 AH lead acid batteries
for years using a charger that current limits at about 1.5 amps.

Your wall converter is an unknown.  What is the open circuit voltage?

Lead acid batteries need between 13.8 and 15.6 volts to recharge.
Voltages above 14.4 volts can damage the batteries through overcharging
if left on too long.  13.8 volts isn't enough to get the battery fully
recharged in cyclic (as opposed to stanby) use.  I recommend 14.3-14.4 
volts.  Also limit the maximum current to not much more than 1 amp.

Frank Ball   1UR-M          frankb@hpsad.sad.hp.com
Hewlett Packard             (707) 794-4168 work, (707) 538-3693 home
1212 Valley House Drive     (707) 794-3844 fax, IT175, XT350, Seca 750
Rohnert Park CA 94928-4999  KC6WUG, AMA, Dod #7566, I'm the NRA.
From: truesdel@ics.uci.edu (R. Scott Truesdell)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: spoke prep
Date: 10 Nov 92 19:02:26 GMT
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech
Distribution: na
Organization: University of California, Irvine

In article <1992Nov10.052532.4829@ecsvax.uncecs.edu>,
mvolo@ecsvax.uncecs.edu (Michael R. Volow) wrote:
>
> Does anyone know how Spoke Prep compares to Blue Loktite (the mild-
> est variety).

I think any thread lock that sets up hard is not a good idea. There is
bound to come a time when you'll need to tweek a spoke (I almost said
something else!!!) and Loctite is NOT what you want on your spokes at that
time.

  --scott
Organization: University of Illinois at Chicago
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 23:34:09 CST
From: <U54874@uicvm.uic.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Cateye CS-1000 Cyclosimulator

Does anybody have one?  I'm thinking of getting a trainer since Chicago
is becoming a bit cold.  Never had a trainer.  The only time I ever used
something similar was a stationary shwinn bike, which is a pain in the ass
literally, with those huge seats of theirs.

The cateye is a bit expensive, $260 from Nashbar, but the cost diminishes if
you take a look at the Blackburn trainers.  A simple mag trackstand is $208.
Last time I checked they were just over a $100, what has happened?
Or a Nashbar unit with remote-mag (the one with the fork mount) is $150.
It seems that for $110 more you got a lot of nice features on the Cateye.

Now, does it really work well?  Or should I just turn into a blob and try
to work it off in the spring ( We didn't have a spring here last year, so
I can'r really count on it).

Mark.

--------
Mark Komosa       u54874@uicvm.uic.edu        DoD #0791        CB700SC
From: truesdel@ics.uci.edu (R. Scott Truesdell)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Chain in Spokes
Date: 9 Nov 92 18:07:59 GMT
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech
Distribution: na
Organization: University of California, Irvine

In article <1dhmduINNbot@agate.berkeley.edu>, dchoi@physics.berkeley.edu
(David Choi) wrote:
>
> 	Anyway, I noticed the spokes had significant gounges in them from the
> chain.  My question is, should I immediately replace those spokes (are they
> prone to breakage in the freehub/cassette (28t big cog) region) or can I ride
> safely on the wheel for a while?

You should replace sooner as opposed to later. The cog side of the wheel is
tensed significantly higher than the left side and this is near the area of
highest stress. Unless you have (or want to buy for $6.00 or so) a
freewheel removal socket you may want to let a shop do the work.

You could possibly ride for years before one of these spokes breaks but you
can be assured that the next spoke you break will be one of the gouged
ones.

Unfortunately.

  --scott
From: cs92mjd@cen.ex.ac.uk (M.J.Davis)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Ahead Set
Date: 6 Nov 92 16:13:39 GMT
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech
Organization: Computer Unit. - University of Exeter. UK

R. Scott Truesdell writes:

  >   I have one maybe-not-so-small bone to pick with AHead Set. The Control
  > stems (made by Control Tech -- customer satisfaction plug: everything they
  > make is first rate) has the cinch screws on the aft part of the stem. They
  > are in such a position that they could be a source of laceration in an OTB
  > event. I'd want to pad them with a little foam and duct tape. That would
  > look ugly though.

 
Tioga make an AheadSet stem with the pinch bolt through the extension, at the
*front* of the quill. Slick. (See GT RTS-1 and/or Toamc's bike). I'm seriously
considering an AheadSet when funds allow me to get a suspension fork, as I 
would be replacing my stem anyway...

Just my 0.02

Mike.
From: daveh@soul.tv.tek.com (David M. Hayes)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Bar-end Shifters
Date: 13 Nov 92 16:07:48 GMT
Article-I.D.: tvnews.1992Nov13.160748.3552
Organization: Tektronix TV Products

In article <1992Nov12.145220.27198@athena.mit.edu> aviator@athena.mit.edu (Joakim Karlsson) writes:
>I think we've gone through this discussion earlier, but it wasn't of
>interest to me at the time.  I'm thinking of buying a Specialized Allez
>road bike and having it assembled with bar-end shifters (I think they're
>Shimano Ultegra).  The bike itself is equipped with Shimano RX100
>components.

I've used bar-end shifters (Suntour ratcheted) for 20 racing seasons. Obviously,
I like them. But I've never felt that I NEEDED indexing. I have tried Shimano
Ultegra b.e. shifters with the "correct" derailleur and cassette, and been dis-
appointed with the performance of the indexing feature.

If you've tried a setup and found it adequate, by all means use bar-end shift-
ers. They're lighter and cheaper than STI, and others will think you're crazy. 
This is not a bad thing.

Dave (My excuse? I'm left handed.) Hayes 
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: paynter@bnr.ca (Stuart Paynter)
Subject: Re: chain skip in snow
Reply-To: paynter@bnr.ca (Stuart Paynter)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Mon, 09 Nov 92 20:29:53 GMT

I had the same problem this weekend as well in the "not so deep"
snow.  The idler wheels of the rear derailleur filled up with
snow and filled inbetween the teeth of the cogs, causing the 
cahin to skip.  I wasn't from improper adjustment.

Cheers...Stuart
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: javier@cs.toronto.edu (Javier Pinto)
Subject: rebuilding wheels... more on spokes
Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of Toronto
Date: 7 Nov 92 03:54:37 GMT

I have a pair of 36 spoke wheels that I want to rebuild. I plan to use DT
15/16/15 spokes. According to Nashbar this size of spokes is only advisable
for front wheels. However, it seems to me that with 36 spokes the rear wheel
should be strong enough with 15/16/15. I am reasonably light (145-150
lbs).  Also, I am planning to get alloy nipples (rims are Ambrosio Durex). 

Any comments? Should I go for 14/15/14 in the back? I normally ride on good
roads but on a couple of occassions i've ended up riding on gravel roads (no
more than 10miles at a time). Are there any disadvantages to using alloy
nipples? 

Thanks for your help, Javier.

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: jfarmer@fraser.sfu.ca (Jason Michael Farmer)
Subject: Winter Tires
Organization: Simon Fraser University, Burnaby, B.C., Canada
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1992 22:55:07 GMT

What, in your opinion, are the best type of tires for a mountain bike in
snow and ice.


-- 
Jason Farmer                 |  Daisemi'in rhhaensuriuu
jfarmer@fraser.sfu.ca        |      meillunsiateve
Simon Fraser University      |           Rh'e Mnhei'sahe yie ahr'en:
Burnaby, British Columbia    |  
Canada                       |   Mnahe afw'ein qiuu;
                             |      rh'e hweithnaef
                             |           mrht Heis'he ehl'ein qiuu.
From: M16302@mwvm.mitre.org
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Help: Clipless pedals for people with bad knees
Date: 9 Nov 92 22:38:01 GMT
Organization: The MITRE Corporation, McLean VA 22102

I had decided to go clipless despite having a torn ligament in my left knee.
I put some time racings (91 model) on my bike and tried it on a training stand.
The force to release by twisting ( I have the new Time cleats) was a lot more
than I suspected and gave me a sore kneecap.  Does anyone know what clipless
pedal or system would require the least force to get out of? Also, what cliples
s system would be best for releasing in a crash?
ROBERT B. SHAIN                              EMAIL: RSHAIN @MITRE.ORG
THE MITRE CORPORATION                        VOICE: (703)883-5592
CENTER FOR INTELLIGENCE & SPECIAL PROGRAMS   FAX: (703)883-6991
MAILSTOP W955
7525 COLSHIRE DRIVE                    "MY OTHER COMPUTER IS A CRAY"
MCLEAN, VA. 22102                      "MY OTHER CAR IS A BIKE"
From: chrisv@carnival.lbl.gov (Chris Moll)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: wild rim failure -- drive side *pushing* fatigue
Date: 12 Nov 92 23:00:03 GMT
Reply-To: chris@carnival.lbl.gov (Chris Moll)
Organization: Lawrence Berkeley Laboratory
NNTP-Posting-Host: carnival.lbl.gov

Jobst Brandt writes:
>No, over tightening is not the cause of your failures.  The stress from
>spoke tension on this aspect of rim integrity is far smaller than the
>hoop stress cause by the inward force of the entire spoke complement.
>The normal failure mode for over tightening spokes is that the rim
>collapses into a saddle (potato chip).  No local rim failure occurs
>locally (spoke pull out) from over tightening.

I'm not quite sure what is meant by this.  I've seen a couple of rims (Araya
CTL370s to be exact) with all nine freewheel side, driving spokes pulling
through (ie. the ones whose tension is increased by torque).
So every fourth spoke was pulling through.  The rims had "single" eyelets,
but the eyelets did not pull through; the rim cracked and split up to an
inch on either side of the spoke hole.
Clearly this failure was due to the local stress of individual spokes.

I'd agree that this does not qualify as failure due to "overtensioning;"
a properly designed rim should suffer local lateral failure before any
spokes pull through.  But it appears that certain anodized rims do not
qualify as "properly designed."

--
Chris Moll                       (510)486-7891
---
"Blessed are they who Go Around in Circles, for they Shall
be Known as Wheels."
From: jrdodd@waikato.ac.nz
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: About clipless pedals (and Jobst)
Date: 6 Nov 92 15:48:58 +1300
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Waikato, Hamilton, New Zealand

In article <1992Nov5.212412.25670@netcom.com>, tomk@netcom.com (Thomas H. Kunich) writes:
 (stuff deleted)> 
> Maybe the safest of all is Jobst Brandt's use of touring shoes and
> Shimano SPD's. Brandt is showered with complimentary stories about
> his technical ability and expertise whenever I talk to people who
> actually know him, so don't let his written persona put you off. He
> is a well rounded and very experienced rider who's recommendations
> should carry lots of weight. Like his bike. :-)
> 

Speaking of Jobst, where is he?  I haven't read anything from him for
ages.  Yooo hooo....

From: jbrandt@hplred.HPL.HP.COM (Jobst Brandt)
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 21:50:33 GMT
Subject: Re: spoke prep
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories, Palo Alto, CA
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech

Spoke prep seems to me to embody the essence of snake oil sold by
traveling salesmen in the old west.  Maybe I should get some and read
its claims, if in fact there is an explanation of its benefits.  I
have built many wheels and ridden many miles on every terrain that I
can imagine and have not seen the circumstance that indicated a need
for spoke prep.  I have heard of people whose spokes unscrew with
time, but I don't believe these wheels were properly built.

In use, spokes should always remain in tension, even on rough roads,
because otherwise the wheel is on the verge of collapse and the
nipples and rim would suffer from continuous rattling.  THe only time
spokes might be expected to become slack momentarily is on a once in a
long time extreme bump and for this the interleaving of spokes should
still prevent spokes from becoming so loose that a nipple lifts off
its seat in the rim.

I am fairly certain that riders whose wheels go out of true often are
riding on wheels whose spokes are not sufficiently tight.  The other
cause is too few spokes and too thick spokes.  I have seen track
wheels with 280 gram rims using 2.o mm unswaged spokes that needed
continuous truing.  This is not the way to run wheels and bandaids
like spoke prep won't fix that situation either, although it can slow
the degradation a bit.

For a while the proponents of spoke prep were also advocating crimping
nipples with diagonal cutters to secure spokes.  This was shown to be
useless and damaging but there are still disciples of this method.  It
seems odd that bicycles have survived these 100 years without this
elixir and that only a few "benefit" from it now.  I and most wheel
builders have gotten along fine with conventional oil or grease.
I think it wise to determine that a need exists before purchasing.  I
have seen no such need.

jobst_brandt@hplabs.hp.com
From: sh27@hydra.gatech.edu (Sim Harbert)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Bar-end Shifters
Date: 13 Nov 92 14:12:08 GMT
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology
In-reply-to: aviator@athena.mit.edu's message of 12 Nov 92 14:52:20 GMT

I have Specialized Allez Epic which I put bar end shifters on.  It has 105
components, but I think RX100's are the same, but just a little cheaper.  The
system has worked great.  The only problem installing was that the cables
provided with the Ultegra bar ends are too short to put under the handlebar
tape all the way to the stem, so I had to get new cables and housings.  I did
not like using the bar ends with cables which were not under the handle bar
tape, as I originally installed them because the cables feel like they get in
the way when using the drops.   As far as using them goes, I never got used to
downtube mounted shifters, having started out on mountain bikes with STI
shifters, so I like bar ends better.  But, they don't seem perfect, since they
do require moving both hands sometimes.  At least my hands don't completely
leave the handlebars (I guess my paranoia about releasing the handlebars comes
from riding moutain bikes).

--

Sim Harbert
Georgia Institute of Technology, Atlanta Georgia, 30332
uucp:     ...!{allegra,amd,hplabs,ut-ngp}!gatech!bismarck!sim
Internet: sim@bismarck.gatech.edu
From: tgorb@rrc.chevron.com (Joe Gorberg)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Re: 105 Rear Derariler
Date: 9 Nov 92 16:54:35 GMT
Reply-To: tgorb@rrc.chevron.com
Organization: Chevron, Richmond, California

In article 19460004@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com, frankh@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Frank Hamlin) writes:
>>    I've having trouble with my road bike shifting on it's own
>>    sometimes.  When I am really hammering the sucker shifts to a higher
>>    or lower gear.  The guys at the bike shop said they will fix it but
>>    I have to bring it in and that over 3 hours away.  They said that
>>    there all adjustment on the rear derailer that needs adjusting, does
>>    anyone have a better description of what they are talking about , I
>>    am not really into fixing bikes so I am not sure what to do?
>
>I purchased a used bike, and had the same problem.  It turns out the
>derailler was Shimano, and the cluster was SunTour.  The spacing was not
>quite the same, and I could not get all the gears to shift smooth.
>After replacing the cluster with a Shimano, it shifts perfect.
>
 
I too had an automatic transmission once.  Took it to the bike shop and found
that the teeth on the freewheel were worn down.  Replaced the cluster and
haven't had a problem since.

Joe.
From: chrisv@carnival.lbl.gov (Chris Moll)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Symmetric rear hub
Date: 12 Nov 1992 23:30:21 GMT
Organization: Lawrence Berkeley Laboratory
Reply-To: chris@carnival.lbl.gov (Chris Moll)
NNTP-Posting-Host: carnival.lbl.gov

Jobst Brandt writes:
(concerning problems with [I suppose] >6sp hubs)
> In fact the durability is being sacrificed
>and those who stress their bike reap more axle failures and pedal
>grounding than before.

Axle failures are solved by cassette hubs.  Anyone using an 8sp freewheel
deserves all the broken axles they get.  Even 7sp freewheels are pushing
the axle to the limit.

Grounding pedals is solved by not pedaling through sharp turns.  If you 
insist on doing this, get a bike with a high bottom bracket and short cranks.
I'm willing to be slightly more careful for the sake of extra gears.

My biggest concern is chainline (a problem exacerbated by the excessively
short chainstays on many current bikes): How much does worsening the chainline
contribute to wear on the chain/cogs/chain rings?  Does anyone actually know?

---

In response to the original question ("Can I build a dishless rear wheel?"):
Mavic cassette hubs have the non-freewheel side flange moved inward, so
that both sets of spokes can be at the same (overly steep) angle.  But why
would you wish to do so?
--
Chris Moll                       (510)486-7891
---
"Blessed are they who Go Around in Circles, for they Shall
be Known as Wheels."
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: jscott@vardamir.next.nd.edu (James Scott)
Subject: Symmetric rear hub
Organization: University of Notre Dame
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 19:57:42 GMT

I'm interested in building a non-dished rear wheel.  Do any manufacturers  
make symmetric road hubs?  I'm looking for a rear hub whose flanges are  
not offset to accomodate a freewheel.

Thanks

James

--
James Scott                                        
jscott@cleese.next.nd.edu
University of Notre Dame                NeXTMail Appreciated
NeXT, Inc. Campus Consultant
(219)283-1599				AUDIX: x5429
"I was gratified to be able to answer promptly, and I did.  I said I
didn't know."