HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: wb8foz@skybridge.SCL.CWRU.Edu (David Lesher)
Subject: Re: Exhaust Manifold Stud Removal
Reply-To: wb8foz@skybridge.scl.cwru.edu (David Lesher)
Organization: NRK Clinic for habitual NetNews abusers - Beltway Annex
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 92 16:04:30 GMT

Others said
# When it breaks flush, drill it out in two passes, first with a small
# drill (3/32" or so) and then with the proper size for retapping.
# 
# Although you clearly don't want to have get to the second part of this
# procedure, it really helps to be prepared for it.  Get your drill, bit
# and tap ready and don't be afraid to use it.

Most importantly,
Be sure the drill and bits are in clear sight of the head. When
your friend comes to help, be sure and drop a hint about how you
may need to drill.

Threat are no good if kept a secret from the intended victim.
--
A host is a host from coast to coast..wb8foz@skybridge.scl.cwru.edu
& no one will talk to a host that's close..........................
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: saundersb@gtephx.UUCP (Bary Saunders)
Subject: MR2 speakers
Keywords: mr2,speakers
Organization: AG Communication Systems
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 17:25:52 GMT

I just bought a '86 Toyota mr2, the speakers are lacking to say the least
Has anyone beefed up the speaker system with much luck, and if so what
did you use? I can't believe the powered 5"(at best) woofer under the
drivers seat, cute but not very affective.

-- 
Bary Saunders, AG Communication Systems, Phoenix, AZ
Comments made are my own!
UUCP: ...!{ncar!noao!enuucp | att}!gtephx!saundersb
Internet: gtephx!saundersb@enuucp.eas.asu.edu
From: wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 18:54:30 GMT
Subject: Re: Fire Extinguisher - Halon or Dry Chemical
Organization: Hewlett Packard - Boise, ID
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

Carrying a fire extinguisher is a great idea, but...

MAKE SURE YOU GET ONE WITH A METAL VALVE AND LEVERS!  The cheapie ones
(although will do the job) are dangerous to carry in the car.  If the
plastic top on the cheapie ones is broken off, it is a lit projectile
that you don't want to have zooming around in the passenger compartment.

The ones with metal tops can also be safely recharged, too.

Wes Fujii

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Wes Fujii               *           JAPANESE BUSINESS MOTTO           *
* Boise, Idaho            *        You can buy anything you want        *
* wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com *             with a lot of money             *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang)
Subject: Re: Exhaust Manifold Stud Removal
Organization: Brandeis University
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 16:02:52 GMT

In article <1992Aug27.131102.29223@mnemosyne.cs.du.edu> tzing@nyx.cs.du.edu (Tom Zing) writes:
>
>I have a broken exhaust manifold stud frozen in my aluminium head.  The
>stud piece is about an inch long.  I have tryed liquid wrench and some 
>vibration to try and loosen it.  Does any one know how to remove it ?
>Thanks
>Tom Z
>

Since the head is alu, you can't use heat effectively.  Apply more
liquid wrench, or if you can find it Kroil, then continue with
vibration for a long time, i.e. tapping with a light hammer for 200
strokes or more.  Then use a vise grip pliers with SHARP teeth to get a
good grip on the stub and wiggle until it either gets loose or breaks.

When it breaks flush, drill it out in two passes, first with a small
drill (3/32" or so) and then with the proper size for retapping.
Retap or use a thread chaser as appropriate.  Don't bother with the
Easy-outs.

Although you clearly don't want to have get to the second part of this
procedure, it really helps to be prepared for it.  Get your drill, bit
and tap ready and don't be afraid to use it.

andy


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jjolly@jjolly.b24b.ingr.com (Jack G. Jolly)
Subject: Re: spark plug nightmare & warning.....
Organization: Intergraph Corp., Huntsville, AL
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 21:51:31 GMT

I have a '72 350 vette which has about 25K miles on heads which were
completely rebuilt (new guides) and it smokes upon start.

I've been told that even with new guides, some type of "valve stem
sealant device" is required.  I'm now considering two different types
of devices - the plastic "umbrella" seal and a "teflon ring" seal.

A local machine shop says they have a teflon seal which will "interference
fit" over the valve guide and not require head machining (i.e. - job can
be done on the car).  Someone else told me "those teflon deals wipe away too
much oil, and your valves will go away".

I've personally had experience with the umbrella deals getting brittle
and breaking up/falling into oilpan.

Opinions

Jack "tired of smoking out pedestrians" Jolly
From: chan@ee.rochester.edu (Chan)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Tire Wear & Alignment
Keywords: alignment, tire, wear, wheel
Date: 28 Aug 92 20:44:30 GMT
Followup-To: chan@ee.rochester.edu
Organization: Univ of Rochester, College of Engineering and Applied Science

I noticed some tire wear on my car and I am wondering whether a
4-wheel alignment will stop the abnormal wearing on the tires from that
point on.

Some people said that it will help prolonging the life of the tires but
will not fully fix the problem and those tires will continue to wear off
abnormally but at a slower rate.  It is better off to let it continue to
wear and put on new tires plus an alignment later on rather than wasting
money to perform an alignment now.  Does it make any sense to anyone out
there?

-Jaba
-
From: MJOHNSON@HARPERVM.BITNET
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: caravan Catalytic Convertor
Date: 1 Sep 92 22:11:05 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: William Rainey Harper College; Palatine, IL  60067

I have an 86 Voyager with 83k and the whole exhaust system looks
like new (stainless steel).  I suspect the former owner may have
used reg/leaded gas.
Is your exhaust system stainless?  All Caravan/Voyagers have this.
If yours dosen't, it was changed(accident?)

Just some ideas.
From: crmeyer@voodoo.physics.ucsb.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Pinto/Bobcat repair manuals for sale, 2 for $10
Date: 27 Aug 92 15:20:51 GMT
Organization: UCSB Physics Department

Ford Pinto / Mercury Bobcat '71-'80 Repair Manuals for sale

  o Clymer Ford Pinto / Mercury Bobcat '71-'80 Repair Manual
  o Chilton's Ford Pinto / Mercury Bobcat '71-'80 Repair Manual

both in good condition

both for $10 + shipping




                      +-----------------------------------+                    
                      |         Charles R. Meyer          |                    
                      |                                   |                    
                      | Internet: crmeyer@voodoo.ucsb.edu |                    
                      | Bitnet:   crmeyer@voodoo          |                    
                      | HEPnet:   voodoo::crmeyer         |                    
                      +-----------------------------------+
From: gregoret@celeste.mmwb.ucsf.edu (Lydia M. Gregoret)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: cat. converter price '87 Integra?
Summary: how much is catalytic converter for integra
Date: 3 Sep 92 15:24:56 GMT
Organization: UCSF Computer Graphics Lab

Can anyone tell me what to expect to pay for a catalytic converter
for an '87 Integra?
Is the converter interchangable with a later model Integra (i.e. might
I find a suitable one from a recent wreck?)
Would you buy a converter from JC Whitney if they sold them?

Thanks in advance,
Lydia Gregoret
lydia@rosa.mit.edu
From: sherman@siemens.com. (Bill Sherman)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Sable stalls out
Date: 1 Sep 92 13:26:28 GMT


My '86 Sable wagon has started to give problems at low speed. Everything
is fine when driving at normal speeds, but when in stop and go traffic or
manuevering in a parking lot, it tends to stall out. Why? I have changed
the plugs, air filter, pcv valve and gas filter. I have even put in the
fuel additive to clean the fuel injectors. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
--Bill

(sherman@siemens.siemens.com)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: paal-sb@hsr.no (Paal Steinar Berg)
Subject: Alfa Supercharger
Organization: Rogaland University Centre
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 09:28:53 GMT

Where can I get a supercharger for my '80 Alfa 2-litre engine?

Have anybody tried this, and what are your experiences

Paal		(paal-sb@hsr.no)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: '89 TOYOTA TOILET with carb problem
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 12:52:35 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL
Keywords: toyota carb stall

 Sounds to me like you want the choke to stay closed a bit longer. With the
"child-proof" setups mandated by our friends in government some disassembly
may be required (like drilling out rivets and relacing with pop rivets or
screws when done). If you're subject to yearly inquisitions it may behoove
you to match the original fastener type so as not to clue the Smoguemadas in.
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
From: pkss@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (philip.k.sikora)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: I want Quiet tires
Keywords: tires
Date: 27 Aug 92 19:41:06 GMT
Organization: AT&T

In article <1992Aug27.141433.26733@inmet.camb.inmet.com>, thy@riviera.camb.inmet.com (Tom Yelton) writes:
> I have a 1988 Mercury Tracer with Goodyear Corsa GT tires (185/70SR13 ?).
> I have no major complaints about the tires (they handled well, wore well)
> except that they seem to be rather noisy.  The back tires are extremely
> noisy now, due to uneven wear and 63+K miles, but it seems to me that
> the tires always were noisy at highway speeds even when they were new.
> I'd guess it is because of the sporty looking (to me) tread design.
> 
> It's time to replace the rear tires and I'd like to buy some quieter
> tires for the second half of the car's lifetime.  I don't especially
> want to sacrifice handling, long life, and bad weather performance but
> I will consider compromises.
> 
> Are tires rated on their quietness?  How could I access these ratings
> if they exist?  Does anyone have any recommendations of specific
> make/models of tires to replace these Corsa GTs?
> 
> Tom Yelton	thy@inmet.camb.inmet.com 

Look for ones manufactured after '85 - when they started using CAD pgms for
modeling. I spoke w/ a noise test engineer at Cooper Tires. Try their Lifeliner
Classic or some such name. I've found no reports that address this.  I have
experienced your tires, but they're not as bad as my Bridgestone 470's.  You'd
think some car or consumer mag would lend a hand here.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: Brakes
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 92 09:40:34 GMT

Drew Eckhardt (drew@ophelia.cs.colorado.edu) wrote:
: 1.  Is having both cylinders on a dual master cylinder fed together (ie,
: 	through a + connector which then feeds front and rear brakes) 
: 	acceptable?  
: 
: 	What is the normal configuration for a dual master?  With
: 	one cylinder feeding front, the other rear?  If this is the 
: 	case, then how much is front/rear brake bias affected by 
: 	different master cylinders? 

I don't know how the other makers do it, but SAAB uses a dual-diagonal system.
The front-right, and rear-left wheels are on one circuit, and the front-left
and rear-right on the other.  This way, if one circuit goes kaput, you have
even forces slowing down your car so it won't spin (it works, think about it.)

That is pre-ABS, by the way, they use 3 or 4 seperate circuits now.  They 
claim to be one of the first to go dual-diagonal, back in '62 or so.

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.
hinzd@picard.med.ge.com
From: bphdarcy@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (SJ Roc D'Arcy, MBP)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Stall Out when stopping
Keywords: Plymoth Horizon Stall When Stopping, Manual Shift
Date: 3 Sep 92 20:16:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

I have a problem with a 1987 Plymoth Horizon with a manual shift.

What happens is that when one depresses the clutch to come to a stop
the engine stalls out.  It runs fine elswise and re-starts just fine after 
stalling and doesn't stall again until the next decelleration to a stop.
It seems like a sensor failure or an idle problem.

Thanks in advance for any help.

SJRD
From: vida@bu-geo.bu.edu (Vida Jakabhazy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: mixing diesel and super unleaded to improve compression troubles?
Date: 3 Sep 92 19:28:41 GMT
Article-I.D.: bu.95311
Distribution: usa
Organization: Boston University Center for Remote Sensing


My husband and I just purchased a '76 2002 in San Fran to replace one that was
recently totalled by a moron.  It was determined readily during the pre-sale
inspection that the fourth cylinder was running at half-compression.  We
purchased it with the knowledge that we'd need to have work done on the car in
Seattle before my husband drove it across the country at the end of our
vacation.  

As we made our way up to Seattle, we were told by mechanics all sorts of
temporary remedies for running on only 3 and a 1/2 cylinders, the oddest of
which was to fill the tank 2/3sful with super unleaded and top off the last
third with diesel [personally, the opposite seems easier ;-)].  We were told
that the diesel would serve to coat and cool the engine, among other things.
Does this sound kosher to anyone out there?  I'm back in Boston and my husband
is on the road, so I'd be interested in getting word back to him if this
proves to be sound practice.

Thanks,
Vida Jakabhazy
vida@bu-geo.bu.edu
From: shoroff@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Bart Simpson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: 86 Chevy Nova horn relay location
Date: 27 Aug 92 19:23:08 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Univ of Texas at Austin

Does any of you know the location of the horn relay on the 86 Chevy Nova(notchback), 
if there is one? Couldnt find any mention of it(or anything about the horn) 
in my Chilton repair manual. 
I think it has a horn relay coz the horn switch completes the connection 
between a wire and ground. Right now the wire shows no voltage, so I 
suspect the relay wire broke. Any ideas? I've never troubleshot relays, so
dont know what conks out first. 

Srihari 
-- 
|A very creative .sig has been ordered.                                      |
|			Will take 4 to 6 weeks for delivery.                 |
|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
|Wanna get in touch?                                                         | 
|If you're    -serious: 512 371 7409   -miserly: shoroff@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu  |
|                 -nuts   : 4413 Speedway #207; Austin, TX 78751          |
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bonger@IASTATE.EDU (Andy Song)
Subject: CRX noises
Reply-To: bonger@IASTATE.EDU (Andy Song)
Organization: Iowa State University
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 18:25:27 GMT


	I have a 1990 CRX Si that has over 62,000 miles on it.  I'm recently
experiencing noises coming from under the car.  It sounded like suspension parts
and I went and replaced all the shocks and springs (they were due for a change
anyway) and the problem presisted.  Some people tell me that the bushings are
shot and they should be replaced.  If you know what might cause the noises and
shakes whenever I go over a bump in the road please help.  If it is the bushings
would you know if there are high performance bushings out there.  I'll pretty
rattled by this!

From: johnp@hpgrla.gr.hp.com (John Parsons)
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 13:39:18 GMT
Subject: Heater core fabricator needed
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Greeley, CO
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech


Took my '65 Dodge in to have the heater core replaced.  But in his
search for a replacement core, the owner of the garage keeps running
into dead ends.  He's even checked Hemming's Motor News.

Can anyone recommend a shop that fabricates custom odd-size heater
cores?  This could be a cold winter!

Thanks,
John Parsons   johnp@gr.hp.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: al@qiclab.scn.rain.com (Alan Peterman)
Subject: Re: 84 BMW 318i Fuse Box
Organization: SCN Research/Qic Laboratories of Tigard, Oregon.
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 20:55:06 GMT

In article <DRAND.92Sep1133237@spinner.osf.org> drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas Rand) writes:
>
>Most speedometers aren't electronic (even in BMWs :) ).  If this is  
>a mechanical speedo then I'd check the cable to the transmission.
>It could be broken, which tends not to be a real expensive repair.


Sorry, but BZZZZT!  Wrongo!  Most, if not ALL BMW's past 1984 have electronic
speedometers.  There is a pulse generator on the rear axle that sends a
pulse to the speedometer and odometer.  If the wire breaks - no speed or
mileage info.  The speedometer/odometer also converts this signal into
a different format that is sent to the ECU (Engine Conntrol Unit) to limit
the speed at the preset speed, and to the trip computer for mileage type
readouts.  This is defineately used in the 84 318i, all 325's and newer
BMW's..  BTW - the speedometer has a little "Electronic" logo on the
bottom, under the odometer.

A few other notes about this system.  Since the pulse generator sends
out square wave shaped pulses - you can run the odometer UP in mileage
even when driving in reverse - the speedometer (and odometer) only
know speed - not direction.  Also if the wire sending the info is
cut, the car WILL exceed the preset factory limiter speed, if you
wish to exceed the doubled double nickel.



-- 
Alan L. Peterman                                 (503)-684-1984 hm & work
                       al@qiclab.scn.rain.com
It's odd how as I get older, the days are longer, but the years are shorter!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: 12 point bolt heads on Ford
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 4 Sep 92 09:15:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * Jacksonville AR USA * 501-985-0059


-> bolts resemble an inside-out Torx configuration except that they have
-> 12 points instead of six.  I thought that a 12-point socket might do
-> the trick, but it seems that this would require a 15/32, 12-point

 It's probably a male spline head screw.  Ford used female spline heads
in the 2000 OHC motor's head bolts and cam tensioner bolt.

 Snap-On makes male and female spline sockets or wrenches.  Keep a tight
grip on your wallet.
From: sontakke@helix.enet.dec.com (Vikas Sontakke)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: SHO air conditioner
Date: 4 Sep 92 20:24:32 GMT
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation


In article <4SEP92.13074304@verbis.waisman.wisc.edu>, stanford@verbis.waisman.wisc.edu writes...
> 
>        The air conditioning in my Taurus SHO (1990) recently decided to
>no longer produce cold air.  Thinking perhaps that a slow leak had developed
>(I noticed it at the beginning of summer when it had not been asked to
>produce cold air for some time), I recharged the system with R12.  All was
>well for a short time (about 3 weeks) but now it, again, produces air that
>is only slightly cooler than ambient.  Is there a reasonably easy way for
>me to check out the system and locate the leak?  Can anyone out there point
>me in the direction of the likely culprit (I HOPE it is not a seal in the
>compressor)?  Has anyone had a similar problem with an SHO? (I dont' know
>if the system is the same as in the other Tauruses).
>        I am a bit reluctant to take it to the local Ford dealer for repair,
>I have considerable reservations about their competence and honesty.  Any
>information would be greatly appreciated.  E-mail address below if that
>is considered a better forum for replies.  Tbanks in advance.
>                                                Larry Stanford
>                                                STANFORD@WAISMAN.WISC.EDU

If you can find R12 cans with leak detector die in it, you may be able to
spot the leak after filling it up with the freon.  A telltae sign of lean is
the (red) color OR oil around the A/C plubming.  

You will have to take it to a competent shop because once you replace the leaky
part, you have to evacuate the system and then refill it with freon and proper
amount of oil.  If there are any local A/C repair places, you may want to try
them.  If yours does not have climate control, it is certain that the A/C in
your SHO is same as other Tauri.

Good luck (and keep us informed)

Vikas Sontakke		Digital Equipment Corporation, Maynard MA.
Internet:		sontakke@helix.enet.dec.com
    uucp:		{decvax,ucbvax,allegra}!decwrl!helix.enet!sontakke
			sontakke%helix.enet@decwrl.dec.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: aefron@cornerstone.com (Andy Efron)
Subject: Oil smoke on startup
Reply-To: aefron@cornerstone.com (Andy Efron)
Organization: Cornerstone Research, Cambridge, Mass.
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 13:05:41 GMT

I have an '87 Celica GT with 58k miles, and over the past year or so I've 
noticed that when I start the engine cold, blue smoke comes out of the 
exhaust for a few seconds.  The longer the car has been sitting, the more 
blue smoke comes out.  Does this signify anything important?

Thanks,

Andy



----------------------------------------------------
"I didn't do it to make history.  You do something
that you want to do or feel you have to do, because
you like it and love it.  And if it turns out to be
history, well, so what?"

				--Carroll Shelby,
					from "The Cobra-Ferrari Wars"
----------------------------------------------------



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rudis+@cs.cmu.edu (Rujith S DeSilva)
Subject: Re: How Fast is a Top Fueler???
Organization: School of Computer Science, Carnegie Mellon
Distribution: rec
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 23:37:52 GMT

In article <1992Aug26.092300.14627@vax5.cit.cornell.edu>
gv9j@vax5.cit.cornell.edu writes:
> ... a typical Top Fuel dragster ...
>
>I saw the NHRA Northwest nationals in Seattle, and did some timing.
>They did 1/4 mile in 4.9 sec, meaning an avg of 3.41 g.
>They got up to 295 mph in 4.9 sec, acceleration of 2.74g average.

Err ... the above two figures are contradictory.  It's got to be either one or
the other.

What are these cars like, anyway?  I've never heard of them, or anything
remotely like them.

Rujith de Silva.
Carnegie Mellon.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: stevenh@cbnewsk.cb.att.com (steven.t.heinsius)
Subject: Re: Oil smoke on startup
Organization: AT&T
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 21:05:09 GMT

its time for valve guide seals.
get your spring compressor and some compressed air
and away you go.

not to bad a job.
Steve
ps don't let the garage sell you a new motor--if you change
your oil you will be fine with just the seals.kk
-----------------
From article <1992Aug26.130541.5277@cornerstone.com>, by aefron@cornerstone.com (Andy Efron):
> I have an '87 Celica GT with 58k miles, and over the past year or so I've 
> noticed that when I start the engine cold, blue smoke comes out of the 
> exhaust for a few seconds.  The longer the car has been sitting, the more 
> blue smoke comes out.  Does this signify anything important?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Andy
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------
> "I didn't do it to make history.  You do something
> that you want to do or feel you have to do, because
> you like it and love it.  And if it turns out to be
> history, well, so what?"
> 
> 				--Carroll Shelby,
> 					from "The Cobra-Ferrari Wars"
> ----------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech