HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: seg3e@holmes.acc.Virginia.EDU (Susan E. Gants)
Subject: Re: Knitting on Consignment
Organization: University of Virginia
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1992 17:34:45 GMT

I worked knitting on consignment for about 6-8 months a few years
back.  It was lots of fun, because I got to work with materials that I
normally wouldn't have used (too expensive, mostly).  The shop
was a "boutique" type and sold some rather high-fashion type capes and
sweaters and knitted jackets.  They also sold fabulous yarns (and the
usual supplies).

The down-side was that sometimes it was hard to meet the deadline
on an item.  I often had to spend a lot of time figuring out how the
pattern worked - some were very brief in the instructions.  I
calculated one time that a cape I made worked out to about $0.50 an
hour - it eventually sold (retail) for about $1200.

It would certainly be worth getting more information - or talking to
some people who already work for them.

Good Luck!
-- 
--------------------------------------------------------
Susan E. Gants   Academic Computing   Univ. of Virginia
(804) 924-0620   internet  seg3e@virginia.edu
                   bitnet  seg3e@virginia
From: Marina.Salume@Corp.Sun.COM (Marina Salume)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: french hand or heirloom sewing
Date: 16 Apr 92 21:19:04 GMT



>        My mother is interested in doing some Heirloom sewing.  Can
>anyone recommend a good place to start?  I think she's looking for a
>book that starts from the beginning.  Thanks.

Simplicity, Butterick and Vogue all sell children's clothing patterns
using Heirloom sewing techniques. I looked at one and the instructions
seemed quite complete, even for a beginner. 

I haven't purchased any of these books. But they sound perfect.
(From an ad in Creative Sewing Magazine, which would also be a great
course--buy Mom a subscription to it! It has free patterns bound into
every issue)--marina


Heirloom Sewing I
Excellent instruction book for handsewing

Heirloom Sewing II
Shadow work and madeira applique and many other handsewing
techniques

Sewing with Lace--Heirloom Sewing III
Ideas for using laces, methods for attaching laces by hand
and machine, curving lace

$9 per book plus $2 shipping and handling per order. Add $2 for catalog
of other books and supplies.

To: Margaret Pierce Inc.
P.O. Box 4542
Dept. CN
Greensboro, NC 27404

__________________________________________________________________

Videos from My Sewing Place (I haven't seen these either):

Smocking $44.95 (3 1/2 hours)
French Machine Sewing $44.95 (3 hours)

plus $4 per tape shipping

to order call toll-free 1-800-545-9747
From: Marina.Salume@Corp.Sun.COM (Marina Salume)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: bobbins and thread
Date: 6 Apr 92 20:40:50 GMT
Article-I.D.: marny.9204062040.AA02605

The new issue of "Creative Needle" has an article about the
importance of using the correct thread, needle, and bobbin
to get the best tension in your sewing machine. I had not
thought about it before, but they even advise against using
metal bobbins in a machine that originally came with plastic.
I quote:

Q: My new Elna 9000 came with plastic bobbins. May I use the
metal bobbins that from my Elna Carina in the 9000?

A: Your 9000 was set for a perfectly balanced stitch with the
plastic bobbins. Using the metal Carina bobbins will not harm
your machine, but their additional weight will cause the stitch
to pull a little more to the underside. If necessary, slightly
adjust the upper tension to compensate for this. Or take advantage
of these characteristics by using the plastic bobbins for regular
sewing and metal bobbins for hemstitching and decorative sewing
where more pull to the underside is desirable.

Awhile ago there were some people who were having trouble getting
the tension in their machine right, I wonder if it could have been
a case of using the wrong type of bobbin? Easy enough to check,
anyway, usually bobbins are very cheap and readily available.

--marina
Xref: sparky alt.sewing:1305 rec.crafts.textiles:864
From: vlb@apple.com
Newsgroups: alt.sewing,rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Source for wooden thread palettes
Date: 15 Apr 92 21:35:49 GMT
Reply-To: vlb@apple.COM (Vicki Brown)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Apple Computer A/UX Engineering

I just bought myself a very nice (though somewhat expensive :-} book called
"The Complete Needlepoint Course".  The author lives in London.

On the cover, artfully arranged, are several skeins of yarn, an unfinished
needlepoint picture, and a wonderful wooden yarn palette that I'd love to have.
I've seen the "paint palette" and butterfly shaped plastic ones, but I think
this is better.

It's looks about 10-12 inches long, nearly rectangular, with a rounded end and
1/2" diameter holes running down both sides.  It has a "handle" which is
narrower than the "body".  Basically, it's shaped like a paint-stirring stick,
but somewhat wider, thicker, and smoother.  If you have ever seen something
like this, in a store or catalog, please let me know.

If I have to, I'll try cutting my own with the jigsaw and drilling the holes,
but I'm not sure my efforts will result in quite the same quality (I'm better
at stitching than woodworking :-)

Any help appreciated

   Vicki Brown   A/UX Development Group		Apple Computer, Inc.
   Internet: vlb@apple.com			MS 35RJ, 20525 Mariani Ave.
   UUCP: {sun,amdahl,decwrl}!apple!vlb		Cupertino, CA  95014 USA
              Ooit'n Normaal Mens Ontmoet?  En..., Beviel't?
        (Have you ever met a normal person?  So..., did you like it?)
From: wheeler@bcarh744.BNR.CA (Cheryl Wheeler)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: How to make curved hems in knits?
Date: 9 Apr 92 16:50:29 GMT
Reply-To: wheeler@bnr.ca
Distribution: alt
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.

In article <MARG.92Apr3133706@media-lab.media.mit.edu>,
marg@media-lab.media.mit.edu (Margaret Minsky) writes:
|>I am looking for hints on hemming the curved flap hem so it lies flat
|>but still stretches etc. Two test hems on stright fabric: narrow
|>hemmed (folded twice) catch stitched by hand; narrow hem baste then
|>hem with double needle and cut off excess. These are both ok on the
|>straight but on the curce: The double fold is thick without machine
|>stitching down, and I don;t have a true stretch stitch, pulling the
|>fabric with another stitch doesn't make it because it doesn;t recover.
|>The double needle thing is also distorting the curved edge in this
|>fabric. Any ideas?

If you narrow hem the flap, you might try stay-stitching on the fold line(s).
Then when you top-stitch, the stay-stitching will prevent distortion. Also,
I find that stay-stitching will slightly "gather" the fabric as the thread 
contracts, making it easier to hem a convex piece.

For a stretchy hem, a slight zig-zag stitch might work for you when you
top-stitch, but I imagine you can't do that with the double needle. 

  --  Cheryl  (wheeler@bnr.ca)
                                        
Newsgroups: alt.sewing,rec.crafts.textile
From: shy@cbnewsk.cb.att.com (susan.hallander)
Subject: Hand Smocking questions
Organization: AT&T
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 20:03:25 GMT
Summary: Novice needs advice
Keywords: Embroidery, Hand Smocking

Hi. I'm new to this group and I hope I'm not asking questions about
a topic you all discussed last week.

I am considering attempting to learn to do hand smocking. In case you don't
know, this is the technique of applying embroidery stiches to small pleats.
This is used most commonly to decorate little girls dresses. I have a book
with directions and patterns but I do not know where to order supplies.
Evidently I need some special tissue paper that has little dots on it
where the pleats are supposed to go. The dots are transferred onto the
fabric before pulling the pleats. Does anybody know where to get this
paper? I have tried two mail-order houses and all the local fabric
shops. 

I have some old embroidery floss in very good condition which I would
like to use. My directions say to use six-strand floss and to use about
three strands of it. I have two-strand floss, is this the same?

I'm interested in the comments from anybody who has tried hand-smocking.

Thanks in advance,

Susan Hallander


Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: annet@hob6.prime.com (Anne Tormo)
Subject: Re: HELP with Snaps...PLEASE!
Reply-To: annet@hob6.prime.com (Anne Tormo)
Organization: Prime Computer
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1992 14:06:00 GMT

hackney@luigi.enet.dec.com (Kirsten Werne) writes:
>	Last night I was finishing up an outfit I had made for my 9 month
	old.  I am not a great sewer (more than a beginner, but definitely
	not an expert).  Anyway, the one piece jumpsuit was all done except
	for putting in the 9 snaps in the crotch.  I have a Dritz snap
	applicator...I figured this would be the easy part.  Boy, was I wrong!
	It took me forever (1 1/2 hours, I would guess) to get all of those
	*&^% snaps in.  I kept having problems with the snaps not lining up
	correctly so I would have to take them out, etc.  Each time I would
	have to remove them, I would end up with more holes in the jumpsuit.
	I especially had trouble at the bottom and crotch where there were
	multiple layers (I had my husband finally do it because he had more
	hand strength).  Anyway, my question is, is there an easier way???
	What am I doing wrong?  I would like to avoid buying the snaps that
	are already on a strip of material because I like to be able to 
	adjust where I put the snaps.  


I hate those snaps... you work very hard to get them in the correct place and
attached correctly, then they fall out and sometimes leave holes.

I like the snap tape better.  I like sewing in (single) snaps better.  
I've done buttons and buttons holes too, and I like that better.  
I've done velcro too, and I like that better.  

Actually, what I ended up liking best of all was just sewing up the seams.
It is a little less convenient when changing diapers, but it hasn't bothered
either me or the kids and I like the finished product better.  (In fact, 
most of the clothes that i have bought also do not have snaps).

Anne
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: annet@hob6.prime.com (Anne Tormo)
Subject: Re: Hand Smocking questions
Keywords: Embroidery, Hand Smocking
Reply-To: annet@hob6.prime.com (Anne Tormo)
Organization: Prime Computer
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 17:35:26 GMT

>In article <1992Apr14.200325.5625@cbnewsk.cb.att.com> shy@cbnewsk.cb.att.com (susan.hallander) writes:
>>I am considering attempting to learn to do hand smocking. In case you don't
>>know, this is the technique of applying embroidery stiches to small pleats.
>>This is used most commonly to decorate little girls dresses. I have a book
>>with directions and patterns but I do not know where to order supplies.
>>Evidently I need some special tissue paper that has little dots on it
>>where the pleats are supposed to go. The dots are transferred onto the
>>fabric before pulling the pleats. Does anybody know where to get this
>>paper? I have tried two mail-order houses and all the local fabric
>>shops. 
>
>My wife has been smocking for about a year now.  She started out getting
>her fabric pleated at Daisy Kingdom.  She got into it deeply enough that
>she bought her own pleating machine.  I won't try to describe the thing,
>other than to say that it pleats the fabric between very long gears and pulls
>the pleated fabric through a battery of needles.  The threads from the needles
>then hold the pleats while the actual smocking is done.
>
>I think she paid about $100 for the pleater.

Clothilde sells a pleater that is not a machine and as such is significantly
cheaper, around $22.  I can't really describe it though I saw her demonstrate it at a 
crafts fair last weekend.  She made lots of 1/4" pleats very quickly by
folding and tucking fabric into this pleater.

Either Clothilde or Nancy's Notions undoubtedly has the dots for which you are looking.
I don't have the 800 #'s with me, but either the net or 800 information could help.

Anne
From: pam@admin.acadiau.ca (Pam Dimock)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: French Hand or Heirloom Sewing
Date: 16 Apr 92 18:47:14 GMT
Organization: Acadia University

In article <1992Apr16.140321.22990@uc.msc.edu> barbara@uf.msc.edu (Barbara Bryan) writes:
>From: barbara@uf.msc.edu (Barbara Bryan)
>Subject: French Hand or Heirloom Sewing
>Date: 16 Apr 92 14:03:21 GMT


>        My mother is interested in doing some Heirloom sewing.  Can
>anyone recommend a good place to start?  I think she's looking for a
>book that starts from the beginning.  Thanks.

Sew News (April edition) has an excellent article on heirloom sewing. Singer 
Reference Library's "Sewing for Children" has great how-to's. I've just 
started and it's a wonderfully relaxing past-time. I've been taking classes 
at my local fabric store (Knit 'n' Stitch) and picked it up in no time.  Sew 
Beautiful magazine also covers heirloom sewing in each of its issues.
Nancy's Notions catalogue would also help. Sewing with Nancy (here it's 1:00
on PBS? (I don't get cable) is currently doing a series on heirloom sewing.
There's lots of sources.

Note: I do all my heirloom sewing on the sewing machine. Works great!
From: bell@pooh.cs.unc.edu (Andrew Bell)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: Sergers
Date: 15 Apr 92 03:00:43 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: University of North Carolina, Chapel Hill

Thanks to all of you who replied to my serger questions.
I wish I had time to thank all of you individually, but
third year law school finals don't permit that.  So,
please accept this instead.

When we decide on what to do, I'll post a follow-up.

Once again, thanks!

Leslie Bell
bell@cs.unc.edu
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: riggle@adobe.com (Kathleen Riggle)
Subject: Re: Quilting books by Jinny Bayer [Beyer]?
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1992 21:56:56 GMT

In article <1992Apr8.122403.1@skcla.monsanto.com> omeara@skcla.monsanto.com (Kathy O'Meara Magnuson  (708/982-4596)) writes:
>In article <1992Apr6.173522.19612@cbnewsk.cb.att.com>, mnj@cbnewsk.cb.att.com 
>(madhuri.jarwala) writes:
>> 
>>  I saw a quilting book about borders by Jinny Bayer [Beyer]; I think I 
>>  would like to have it as a reference. Does anyone know its name? 
>
>I'd bet you're referring to "The Quilter's Album of Blocks and Borders",
>1986, 280 pp., Illus. pap $18.95,  ISBN 0-914440-32-2,  EPM Publications
>
>>  I remember reading on the cover that there are two books by this 
>>  author.  Has anyone read these books? Are they good?
>
>I _do_ like the above book.  I also really enjoyed her Portable Palette 
>video!  

I also have The Quilter's Album of Blocks and Borders.  It is nice.
It is black and white, but the interesting thing about the drawings is
the different fabrics that are used in each block really look like
fabric that you could buy (mostly Jinny Beyer fabric).  It looks as if
the fabric were photocopied (yep, you can do that).  The blocks are
much more interesting than if they were just some random pattern used
as I've seen in other books.

> Her other books are:
>    - 	"Medallion Quilts: The Art & Technique of Creating Medallion Quilts,
>	Including a Rich Collection of Historic & Contemporary Examples", 
>	1982, $18.95
>    -	"Patchwork Patterns", 1979, $24.95/17.95pap
>    -	"Patchwork Portfolio: A Presentation of 165 Original Quilt Designs",
>	1989, $44.95
>    -	"The Scrap Look: A Past and Present View of Designing and Piecing
>	Multi-Fabric Quilts", 1985, $19.95
>    -   "A Six-Minue Mile: A Beginning Runner Tells How at Age 40 She
>	Tackled...A Six-Minute Mile...And How You Can Too!, 1984, $4.50
>	(I haven't verified that this last one is the _same_ Jinny Beyer!)


I also have The Scraplook.  I love this book!  It does have color
photos and they are awe-inspiring.  I still want to make a tumbling
blocks quilt like her Ariel View quilt, which is pictured in the book.

The chapters include:

The Charm of the Past, The Rage of Today
Fabric and Color Use in Creating the Scrap Look
One Patch Multi-Fabric Quilts
Repeat Unit Multi-Fabric Quilts
Charm Quilts


Kathie
-- 
riggle@adobe.com
From: dbgrvv@edp.arco.com (Rosana VanDerGrinten)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: HELP! Sources for crystals,beads,sequins,etc
Date: 10 Apr 92 22:26:26 GMT
Organization: ARCO - Aept


I'm looking for good sources for beads, austrian crystals,
glitter stones, sequins and the like. I'm interested in buying
by the bulk/ gross. If you know any place where I could get them
cheap please, please let me know.  Thanks in advance.

-Rosana
From: boris@uwovax.uwo.ca
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: Z'Out
Date: 16 Apr 92 10:08:37 EST
Organization: CCS, UWO, London, Ontario, Canada

I have used Z'out - at home - to get stubborn stains out - and more
often for taking makeup out of costumes (one of my hobbies is costume design
for community theatre) - quite successfully.

I have no idea of the ingredients - when I first learned about it I thought
it was rather expensive - approximately CDN$ 8 - 10 for about 500 ml -
about 16 ounces.  However, you don't use much at a time and it saved one
of my very favorite blouses from smeared ink stains.  In London, Ontario
many of the local fabric stores have quit stocking it - I am guessing
because of the cost - but I certainly have found it to be cost effective.

Mona.

===============
Mona Brennan-Coles
C.C.S. - Telecommunications
Room 26 Somerville House			 INTERNET:  BORIS@UWO.CA
University of Western Ontario			      FAX:  (519) 661-3292	
London, Ontario  CANADA  N6A 3K7		TELEPHONE:  (519) 661-3323
From: aqn@tivoli.UUCP (Andy Nguyen)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: Fabric Rec's Needed
Date: 17 Apr 92 13:54:06 GMT
Reply-To: aqn@tivoli.UUCP (Andy Nguyen)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Tivoli Systems Inc., Austin, TX

paradis@ERA.COM (Lisa Berkenbilt) wrote:
+	1. The fabric must resist oil (a thin, light grade oil used for valves)
+stains, or at least hide them well.
+	2. The dress I want to make will have a fitted bodice.  Since
+I still want to breathe (horn players need to take deep breaths), the
+fabric has to give.
+	3. I would like fabric that breathes a bit ...
+	4. I would like material that has a nice drape to it for the skirt.
+	5. I would like a
+material that resists wrinkling. (eg cotton is out)
+	6. The material has to withstand repeated washings without
+fading.
+I would greatly appreciate any ideas you might have.  One possibility
+I thought of is using a different material for the sides of the bodice
+for #2 (and still upholding #6) and another material for the rest.

   I have two suggestions:

   a.  A _gathered_ overskirt of two or three layers of black Illusion (soft
       net-like bridal/evening gown material) will help with the staining/
       breathing/draping problems.
       It minimizes staining because it's less likely to hold stains and
       it hides any stains on the underskirt.
       It helps w/ the breathing fabric problem because now you have more
       choices in the fabric for the underskirt: as long as the fabric is
       black and is soft and breathes, you can use it w/o worrying about
       its appearance, because the layers of Illusion will hide its look
       and show only its color (black).  And finally, it's soft enough
       to be drapy (is that a word?).

       For the Illusion overskirt's hem, you can just pink it.  Or you can
       trim it w/ thin (1/16" or 1/8" wide) black satin ribbon:  just cut an
       extra 1/2" in length at the hem, position the ribbon about 1/2" from
       the hem, stitch down the middle of the ribbon, and trim about 1/4"
       down from the ribbon.  For extra effect, cut the overskirt layers in
       lengths 3/4" to 1" apart (great when edged in satin ribbon!).
       [ I just noticed that "satin" is an anagram of "stain!" ]

   b.  Your idea of using different material for the bodice is a good idea.
       Or you can use stretch black velvet for the bodice.  The velvet would
       look sophisticated, and the stretch, well,... stretches!
       The stretch black velvet can be hard to find, though.

-- 
Andy Nguyen / Team Paranoid
(212) 267-7722				...!uunet!tivoli!aqn  OR  aqn@tivoli.com
From: hosch2263@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Question:mini-sergers
Date: 17 Apr 92 12:22:31 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

        Has anyone heard of this?  I was looking through a craft magazine the
other day and came onto a ad for a mini-serger that is supposed to fit on your
sewing machine.  Does anyone know anything about how these things work, or
their sewing quality?
        Thanks.   Kitten
From: euafri@eua.ericsson.se (Fredrik.Ostman)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: sewing t-shirts
Date: 8 Apr 92 10:27:37 GMT
Organization: Ellemtel Telecom Systems Labs, Stockholm, Sweden

astels@fsd.cpsc.ucalgary.ca (astels) writes:
>I've been making some t-shirts for myself lately but I'm having a problem.
>When I hem the cuffs and bottom of the shirt I use a straight stich, but
>after wearing it a few times the thread breaks because the material stretches
>but the stiching doesn't.

I made a T-shirt with a normal sewing machine. I used the stitch intended
for invisible hems. The seam wasn't invisible, but it didn't break and it
didn't float/run.
--
  ______                     _~
 (_/_ _  _  _/) _  . /)     / ) , _/)     _
__/ _/(_(/_(/__/(_/_/Z_    (_/_/)_/__/))_(I_/)_
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: lcornell@milton.u.washington.edu (Linda Cornell)
Subject: Re: HELP with Snaps...PLEASE!
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1992 21:57:31 GMT

Hi there,
>
>I like the snap tape better.  I like sewing in (single) snaps better.  
>I've done buttons and buttons holes too, and I like that better.  
>I've done velcro too, and I like that better.  
>
>Actually, what I ended up liking best of all was just sewing up the seams.
>It is a little less convenient when changing diapers, but it hasn't bothered
>either me or the kids and I like the finished product better.  (In fact, 
>most of the clothes that i have bought also do not have snaps).
>

I don't do many infant things....but one idea that I've seen and really
liked was putting in a separating zipper in the crotch that started at one
ankle and ended at the other ankle.  

Food for thought!

Linda
lcornell@u.washington.edu