HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: ravalent@mothra.syr.EDU (Bob Valentine)
Subject: Re: are alternators too weak for amps?
Organization: Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 92 12:17:19 EST

In article <If_rfqK00WB485hl8_@andrew.cmu.edu> Amit Likhyani <al1x+@andrew.cmu.edu> writes:
>I just got a 140 amp delco alternator installed in my car.  This is what
>happens:
>
>Your alternator is rated for a certain amperage in my case it was 65 amps.
>At idle, it does not put out as much as when you are accelerating.  Mine
>could put out 85 amps when accelerating, but more like 50 at idle.  
>
[stuff deleted]
>
>I am going to jack mine up when I figure out
>how to do it(damn Japanese cars).  Right now, I am putting out 70 amps
>at idle.  The guy temporary turned the idle screw and we had it up to
>110 amps at idle which is probably higher than I needed or wanted, but
>he could not set the screw.  If anyone has any info on how to jack the
>idle up on a 1988 Mitsubishi Mirage, please drop me a line.  The car has
>a carbeurator.  We took it off, but could not figure out what was going
>on underneath.

   Sorry, I can't help ya on those bastard-child Jap vacuum carbs, but
one thought occurs:

   Thru all the discussions of incresed alternator output, no one has
ever mentioned the thought of changing pulley size.  On a GM (delco)
alternator, there a pulleys that range from like 4" in diameter to
1 inch in diamter.  I solved a low-output-at-idle just by reducing the
pulley size.  Best source for them is the bone-yard.  If you're
running a domestic car (I'm not to well versed on imports), they're
also differnt crank-pully sizes.   Look around, might solve some
problems the cheap way....


                      -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                  --> ravalent@mailbox.syr.edu <--  

    

    



Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: yystg@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov (STEVE GRAHAM)
Subject: Re: Re: Class A MOSFET Power Amp for sale...
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
Date: 18 Dec 1992 08:48 EST  

In article <26130124@hpcc01.corp.hp.com>, kirk@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Kirk Lindstrom) writes...
>Bolt is in fact a "Class A" amplifier, but my guess is it is a reference
>to their input stage in the hopes of fooling people.  A true class-A
>output amp for car audio is ludicrous.  Next we'll get tubes!  I
>considered BOLT when I first got the idea to put some good sound in my
>van.  They are known to put out alot of power, but I don't think they
>are "high-end".  I've seen them in flea-markets and corner discount
>stores for $160 new.
> 
>Kirk out

Doesn't Blade make a vaccum tube amp?

S. Graham
From: st1q9@elroy.uh.edu (Devine, Della M)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: "BUMP" in box
Date: 16 Dec 1992 18:21 CST
Organization: University of Houston
Distribution: na
NNTP-Posting-Host: elroy.uh.edu
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    

In article <17586@umd5.umd.edu>, ui68@linus.umd.edu (Bill Kyte) writes...
> 
>  Hows it goin' guys. I need information on something. I'm getting a box
>built for two 8" Pyle subs. The guy thats building the box for me has one of
>those programs and also does 15 other calculations. He asked me if I wanted
>a "bump" built into the box. He told me that this bump acts as a natural EQ.
>The questions that I have are:
> 
>1. Is this guy telling me the truth and will it work?
>and
>2. Is $50 dollars a reasonable price to pay?
> 
>P.S. The "bump"is supposed to be from 45-250 Hz.


  I think what he is referring to is a band-pass enclosure. this enclosure's
frequency response looks like a hill, or 'bump'.  It is an enclosure that
has the output of a sealed or vented enclosure firing into yet another
vented enclosure.  It naturally filtes out the upper portion of the
spectrum.  They're called a band pass cuz they pass a specific band of
the spectrum, in this cae 45-250 hz.
  $50 is a good price if he does one helluva job on it.  I mean, carpeted
or veloured or something and it looks most excellent.  A place in houston
Tx. will build a bandpass for two kicker 8's for about the same price.
(your basic square).  But to build a custom one using the pattern's 
provided by Orion for two of their XTR8's, costs something like $250.
Cuz it takes about 30 different pieces. but yields 130db at 40-50hz
running 300 watts into each sub.  This box looks and especially sounds
AWESOME!!! I never realized how good bandpass enclosures sounded until
this one.  anyways, that's what he's talkin about.

                            catch ya later!
                            william c devine ii
reply to:
         devine@pvhep.pvamu.edu
From: frankb@kit.CNA.TEK.COM (Frank Borden  436)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: How many remote leads?
Date: 16 Dec 92 01:14:33 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Beaverton,  OR.

In article <BzBs3t.DEt@news.cso.uiuc.edu> jsc52962@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Jeffrey S. Curtis) writes:
>In article <17565@umd5.umd.edu> ui68@linus.umd.edu (Bill Kyte) writes:
>}   I have a small question for the net.  How many leads can you run off of 
>}the head units remote wire? I want to run two or three amps and don't know

>As I believe I found out the hard way, the remote lead from the head
>unit is simply attached directly to the +12V source into the head
>unit and is switched off of the unit's power on/off switch.  In other
>words, you can run as many remote leads off of it as you want.  After
>all, each remote lead for an amp should only be taking around 100mA

>Jeff
 
Well, I don't know if this is so for all decks. The decks I have read the
directions for have a limited amount of current that they recommend you draw
through the remote turn on lead. This maximum amount of current ranges from
300mA to 500mA. Maybe this is just recommended but if I remember right it 
said something like "Caution: Do not exceed 300 mA." If this is the case,
and it does only take 100 mA per Amplifier, then you may only be able to
turn on 3 - 5 Amplifiers with the turn on lead. For muliple amps I recommend
that you use a relay. The turn on lead switches on a relay that turns on
many amps. The ouput from the relay can run other gaudgets as well: fans,
X-over, etc... 

Frank
From: trw@spl1.spl.loral.com (Tim R Witort)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Tweeter Mounting Location?
Date: 11 Dec 92 18:17:00 GMT
Organization: Loral Software Productivity Laboratory

In article <1992Dec11.143444.21161@news.duc.auburn.edu>, kevins@eng.auburn.edu (Kevin Sullivan) writes:
|> Should surface mount tweeters be located up high, near the headliner, 
|> or farther down or what?  Reflections off the glass could be a problem, no?

   The problem with locating speakers in a mobile system is that
it's hard to obey all the rules:

   1) Drivers producing frequencies over around 80 Hz produce "directional"
      sound, so they should be located as close to each other as possible so
      that they are approximately a point source of sound.  Orienting them 
      on-axis is also recommended.

   2) High frequency drivers - particularly tweeters - should be placed such
      that they have an unobstructed projection to the listener.  This is
      because frequencies are more "directional" (the source is more easily
      percieved) as they increase - so tweeters are the most directional of
      all drivers.  If they are not "aimed" at the listener, the stereo
      image will be degraded.

   So the trick is to put the tweeters as close to the mid/bass drivers (if
any) and still make them project nicely.  I put my tweeters about 18 inches
above the mid/bass drivers in the front so that they're at about chest level.
They produce a very solid image.  Putting them higher would probably make
the image less defined since the drivers would be so far apart.  Experimentation
is the best teacher.  Glass reflections may or may not be a problem.  It
depends on orientation and many other factors.

-- Tim
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: "glen mead" <glen.mead@canrem.com>
Subject: pioneer 6-disc magazines
Reply-To: "glen mead" <glen.mead@canrem.com>
Organization: Canada Remote Systems
Distribution: rec
Date: 14 Dec 92 18:27:19 EST

TMDoes anyone own that snazzy Pioneer "audio jukebox" that holds three
TM6-CD cassettes?  (18 CD's total at one time)  I've been thinking abou

On a related note, does anybody know if the Pioneer 6 disc magazines work
in other manufacturers 6 CD units?  How about with car 6 disc changers
other than Pioneer?  Also, a friend of mine has a cassette receiver in his
car with CD inputs (a Radio Shack model) and he'd like to add a 6-disc
changer which is compatible with the cartridges from his Pioneer home 6 
disc changer.  I believe the inputs are line level so he doesn't need the
FM modulator (although he would need a controller) but the stores keep 
telling him he does...any comments?  I'm new to them myself so please
excuse me if these questions are painfully obvious to those who own these
units.  Thanks in advance.

Glen Mead - RZ/RD 500 Owners Group
---
 * Amiga-Reader V2.00B * 
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: mxl@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (marc.a.levy)
Subject: ADS SB-7 STILL FOR SALE
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 13:52:42 GMT

I am still trying to sell a slightly used ADS SB-7 woofer box.

This is a ADS designed and built box for the SB-7 (7 inch)
woofers.  It is a sealed box.  No, it wont wake the neighbors
up, but this box is designed for the real audiophile, with
tight bass, as apposed to muddy BOOM.

The box sold for $400, I am asking $150.+ shipping ( i have
the origional box.)  A few of the grill clips are missing, but
otherwise, it is perfect.

Marc
From: jcg2@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (JASON GIRARD)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Thanks to all!!!
Date: 14 Dec 92 01:21:07 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

I'd like to take this time to thank all of you who helped me with my system
plans or provided the info. I was looking for.  I hope any information I
provided was helpful, as well!  Reading your posts has really expanded my
knowledge of car stereo systems.
    I'll be heading back home this Friday, until January 20th or so.  If any
of you want to drop me a line or send me pictures of your systems, go right
ahead!  I'd like to know!
    Special thanks to Jason (R.), Jeff, Mike, Brian, Cal, and anyone else I
may have forgotten...

    Write to:
            Jason Girard
            647 Meade Court
            Hazleton PA 18201

    Talk to y'all next year and have a great holiday!

    -Jason
-- 

Jason Girard                           The mind is a terrible thing
jcg2@lehigh.edu                                 to TASTE!
Box 489                                        X   X
Lehigh University                                V
29 Trembley Dr.                               *     *
Bethlehem, PA 18015-3041                       *****
From: dubear@molbio.cbs.umn.edu (Dubear Kroening)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Kenwood KRC1004 Question
Date: 16 Dec 92 22:02:08 GMT
Organization: University of Minnesota
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5


Approximately 2 months ago I posted a question concerning problems I was 
having with my car stereo.  It is a Kenwood KRC1004, and sometimes the digital
lights (along with the time and preset stations) will go out or not come on at
all.  Many helpful tips were given concerning the ground and hot wires.
However, on a separate post, someone (I can't recall his name) mentioned that
the KRC1004 had been recalled due to a faulty fuse holder (or something like
that).  I contacted my dealer, the Kenwood 800 #, and the local repair shop,
and none of them had heard of a recall.  Could the person who originally 
posted the recall (or anyone that has any info) please contact me.  Preferably
by email to save bandwith and to save time searching through this newsgroup.

Thanks in advance for any replies,

Dubear
From: donrm@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Don Montgomery)
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 22:04:18 GMT
Subject: CLARION 5671CD Display Problems
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Rosa, CA
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car


Hi

Here's a weird question about the CLARION 5671CD cd head unit.  Do you have
trouble seeing the frequency/track display while wearing polarized sunglas-
ses?

I also have a CLARION 9772RT tape head unit that does *not* have this trou-
ble; in fact, I'm amazed at how well it works, providing high visibility and
contrast in direct sunlight.

I'm just curious if this was a genuine design screwup (not orienting the LCD 
display polarizer correctly for the sunglasses wearer) or was the polarizer
factory cut 90 degrees from what the designer originally intended???

It's a real pain-in-the-butt not being able to see the display.  I can read 
it by tilting my head 90 degrees, but I get some really strange looks from 
the people in the car behind me...

Don Montgomery, Santa Rosa, CA
donrm@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: jreiser@scott.skidmore.edu (Jason Reiser... Asleep)
Subject: Re: Class A MOSFET Power Amp for sale...
Organization: Skidmore College, Saratoga Springs NY
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 23:45:50 GMT

kirk@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Kirk Lindstrom) writes:
> Bolt is in fact a "Class A" amplifier, but my guess is it is a reference
> to their input stage in the hopes of fooling people.  A true class-A
> output amp for car audio is ludicrous.  Next we'll get tubes!  I
> considered BOLT when I first got the idea to put some good sound in my
> van.  They are known to put out alot of power, but I don't think they
> are "high-end".  I've seen them in flea-markets and corner discount
> stores for $160 new.
> 
> Kirk out

Class A in a car is not possible in an output stage from what I have
read... still looking for the source, though I suspect Autosound 2000.
As for tubes, Milbert introduced their BaM-230 about 4.5 years ago.
It is a $2000 (list) 30 watt per side tube amp using 6JN6 output
tubes.  The problem with tubes in autosound had to do with the high
voltage needed to drive them, but this baby is supposed take care of
the problems with an impressive p/s.  I'd love to get my hands on one!

				- Jason
-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------
\ Jason A. Reiser  \ Send E-Mail to jreiser@scott.skidmore.edu \
 \ Skidmore College \ Saratoga Springs, NY 12866 \ 518-581-6580 \  
  \ It's a new Ice Age!  Hooray!!  Sled City!  - Calvin & Hobbes \
From: ajt@iitinc.uucp (Andrew Tao)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Speaker power handling capability
Date: 14 Dec 92 20:17:42 GMT
Organization: Integrated Information Tech.

In general are the power handling specs listed by a manufacturer accurate?
I have just installed a PPI 4100 in my car with a set of separates (6.5 + 
tweeter) in the front and some 6.5 coaxials in the back and want to know
if playing music heavy in bass is going to destroy the speakers.  Both
sets of speakers are rated for over 120Watts max and ~50Watts continuous 
but their power handling capability in the low frequencies seems less than 
these rated values - i.e distortion is present when the music is loud.
So as long as the signal going to the speaker is clean, is it necessarily
bad for the speaker to distort when playing bass tones?  At some 
point I'm definitely going to add a crossover and a sub but for now, my 
budget does not allow. Anyway, thanks for any advice - 

Andrew
From: ae454@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Paul Simundza)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: question on Power Consumption
Date: 18 Dec 1992 19:56:10 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: ae454@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Paul Simundza)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc10.ins.cwru.edu



 I have a Hi-Power pullout, Jensen, that has 60 watts built in, but
I am not using the power built in, I am running all my sound with
RCA jacks to 2 AMPS one for subs, and the other for the rest, mids/highs.
Is it safe to say that if there are no speakers hooked up to the 
Jensens speaker output that no power is being used? and is it safe to
have no load on the jensens speaker outputs? Is this a stupid question?

-- 
Paul Simundza                  | Cleve.Freenet: ae454@cwru.edu
                               | Compuserve: 71441.217@compuserve.com
                               | CSU(Internet): pauls@madnick.cba.csuohio.edu
From: erich.lim@cutting.hou.tx.us (Erich Lim) 
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: RE: ARE ALTERNATORS TOO
Date: 14 Dec 92 14:18:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: The Cutting Edge - Houston, TX - 713-466-1525
Reply-To: erich.lim@cutting.hou.tx.us (Erich Lim) 

JEFF writes:
-> I have a 1987 Acura Integra.  Recently, I installed a
-> Bazooka 6 1/2" with built in 40 watt amp (about 3
-> weeks ago).  Just today, 12/11, my car lights go dim
-> when the engine was off and needed a jump to get it
-> started again.  Since, then i noticed that my dash
-> lights go very dim when at a red light (idling).
-> When I accelerate again, the lights return to their
-> normal brightness.  Is it possible the alternator
-> isn't strong enough to power the built in amp?

  Your alternator shouldn't be the problem.  It's only 40 watts and I've
never heard of such a problem.  Maybe your battery is growing weak, that
could very well be it.  Although it could also be your alternator since
the alternators in Honda's are quite weak and the car has a full
electrical load with all the power stuff going on..  I'm not electrician
or anything, but I'd check the battery.


 Erich.
Internet add: erich.lim@yob.sccsi.com
                                                                                 
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| The Cutting Edge BBS (cutting.hou.tx.us)    A PCBoard 14.5a system  |
| Houston, Texas, USA    +1 713 466 1525          running uuPCB       |
+---------------------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: jsc52962@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Jeffrey S. Curtis)
Subject: Re: Can I run car stereo on battery charger?
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 23:55:58 GMT

In article <1992Dec16.155512.45695@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu> thompson@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu writes:
}I have a Clarion 9772RT pull out car stereo tape/receiver.  I also have
}a Kenwood 50x2 watt amp, and two Sony 6x9 speakers.  All of this equipment
}is sitting in my room doing nothing (I won't have a car for a while).

}I had an idea about how to use this car stereo equipment with the house
}electricity (110 volt I guess).  Can I use a car battery trickle chargerer?
}I can get a 10 amp one for $30.  Am I right in assuming that a 10 amp
}charger charging at 12 volts (car voltage) will yield (10 * 12) 120 watts
}of power before overloading?  I thought I heard that amps * volts = watts.
}Is this true.  If it is, is this a safe way to run my car stereo on my

So far so good..

}house current?  I could use a surge protector to prevent spikes.  Is there
}anything that I should be warned about that might damage my equipment by
}doing this?  

.. the problem, though, is that your Kenwood amp isn't drawing 100
watts.  Average car amp efficiency is estimated at 50%, so your amp
will need about 200 watts.  The head unit will take in the neighborhood
of 10 watts (about an amp or so).  So you'd need a 20 amp charger
to be just clear of the estimated power needs; 30 would probably be
"safe" giving you 360 watts.  You could, of course, use just the head
unit if it has speaker level outputs, meaning you could get by with
one of those cheap-o 2 to 5A chargers.

Jeff

}| Listen to Rush Limbaugh from 12-3 EST on the radio EVERYWHERE! |

Good advice.  B^)
-- 
Jeffrey S. Curtis sidewinder@uiuc.edu | "Resplendent and full again, they revel
 The Power of 37  free2207 at uiucvmd | in their role as self-appointed critics
   Jensen - Polk - Sansui - Proton    | of the establishment..."
 Sony - StreetWires - Sanyo - Sennet  |   -- INXS _Welcome to Wherever You Are_
From: ui68@linus.umd.edu (Bill Kyte)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: "BUMP" in box
Date: 16 Dec 92 20:48:11 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: University of Maryland, College Park


  Hows it goin' guys. I need information on something. I'm getting a box
built for two 8" Pyle subs. The guy thats building the box for me has one of
those programs and also does 15 other calculations. He asked me if I wanted
a "bump" built into the box. He told me that this bump acts as a natural EQ.
The questions that I have are:

1. Is this guy telling me the truth and will it work?
and
2. Is $50 dollars a reasonable price to pay?

Thanks 
-Bill
 
P.S. The "bump"is supposed to be from 45-250 Hz.
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: jreiser@scott.skidmore.edu (Jason Reiser... Asleep)
Subject: Re: Cassette tuners vs. cassette radios
Organization: Skidmore College, Saratoga Springs NY
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 09:38:50 GMT

nau@ssesco.com (William Nau) writes:
> >My question is, what's the difference between cassette tuners and cassette
> >radios?  And which is better?
> 
> My guess is that the cassette tuner does not have a amplifier for the
> speakers.  If you are planing on using your own amps, it is better.
             ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Care to explain this for me?  As I see it, the obvious advantage would
be that you did pay some amount for the amp to be there, and if you
don't use it, it is a waste (in theory).  The only advantage of not
having an amp there to begin with that I can see would be the possible
radiated noise introduced into the RCA outputs via the internal amp...
but is that really possible?  Anyone have any experience (practice,
not theory) with opening up a receiver and disconnecting power to the
unused amp leading to reduced noise?

				- Jason

Sorry if this has already been covered in another post/followup... my
newsfeed has been up and down.


-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------
\ Jason A. Reiser  \ Send E-Mail to jreiser@scott.skidmore.edu \
 \ Skidmore College \ Saratoga Springs, NY 12866 \ 518-581-6580 \  
  \ It's a new Ice Age!  Hooray!!  Sled City!  - Calvin & Hobbes \
From: cjm9321@hertz.njit.edu (The InfoMan)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: 4x6" Plate Speakers
Date: 17 Dec 92 19:44:37 GMT
Organization: New Jersey Institute of Technology, Newark, N.J.



	Hello all,

	I'm in search for a pair of 4x6" Plate speakers that have a
woofer and tweeter. I haven't had time to shop around yet so I just
composed a list from the CSR Buyer's Guide.

	Let me know what you think of the following:

		Altec Lansing		ALS-46

		Audio Art by Mingar (??) Model 46C

		Earthquake		PL-46

		G&S			NS-46PL

		Gold Sound		GS-4x6P

		JBL 			T464

		Majestic (????)		MS-46P

		MTX			RTP46 and MTP-462

		Phase Linear		PL4602

		Polk			MM300, MM4620, MM2200
					(Which will fit in 4x6"?)

		Pyle			K-MTP46

		Radion (????)		DSS-4646

		Ultimate Sound		PT46

		Volcano by Stanford (??) AMTP


	Well, I went to two places so far, And the only ones that I saw
were the MTX (I forget which one) and the JBL. The JBL cost more (of
course) but the MTX had a better crossover network. The JBl just had a
cap for the tweeter. The MTX comes with a 3 year over the counter
warranty (If anything goes wrong, I just go back and get a new one that
same day). 	so far it looks like the MTX but do any of you have any
comments on the above?


					Thanks a lot,

 
			Acoustics
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Newsgroups: rec.audio.car