HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: schin@acs.bu.edu (neil schier)
Subject: Help I am trying to get ahold of a friend of mine who
Organization: Yale CS Mail/News Gateway
Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1993 10:31:12 GMT

Hello

I am trying to get ahold of information about a friend of mine who graduated
in 1990. Unfortunately, the info I have gotten is rather old. What is the
name of the most popular newsgroup on campus. Please e-mail to me directly,
as I do not have an account at Yale.

Regards
NEil Schier
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: rcb@ncsu.edu (Randy Buckland)
Subject: Re: Engine problems
Organization: North Carolina State University
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 15:10:32 GMT

torsten@rnivh.rni.sub.org (Torsten Leibold) writes:
>rcb@ncsu.edu (Randy Buckland) writes:
>>I am currently having engine problems with a repaired Fox 40. The engine
>>was crashed in such a way that it destroyed the carburator and
>[...]
>>get it to run for more than about 2 seconds. If I squirt fuel into the air
>>intake, the engine will start but does not appear to draw any fuel from the
>>line and just stops after a couple seconds. The lines are clear since with
>>everything dry, I can blow into the muffler line and hear air coming out
>>in the carburator. The following are the possible causes I can decide for it.

>Air comes out in the carb ?? It seems, that something's wrong with the
>fuel supply. Are you sure that the hoses are connected to the proper
>nipples ? Did you use the crashed tank for your new model ? Did you
>check the interior connections of the tank ? The hoses could be
>damaged due to the crash ....

Sorry for the confusion. With the system DRY, I blow into the muffler tube
and hear air coming out of the carb. Haven't tried with fuel, but that 
should work also. Now for carb data, here is what the fox carb looks
like in cross section.

                        |         air intake       |
high speed ==============================                   low speed
  |||||||||||||||--------------       ------------|||||||||||||||
           ========================


Note that the upper part of the cylinder that has the high speed needle
extends farther than the lower portion. I assume this is the "spray bar".
I understand that the high speed needle simply restricts the flow rate
through this pipe. One question I have is where should the low speed needle
be at {idle, midrange, wideopen}? For example, at idle, should it almost
meet the high speed needle? The fox directions for the low speed say to
screw it in until it seats and then out 1 turn. I don't know where it should
seat. I feel the resistance increase part way in but can still turn it
by hand. When I can no longer turn it by hand, I can still turn it with a
small screwdriver almost all the way in without undue force.
--
Randy Buckland                               "It's hard to work
North Carolina State University               in a group when you're
randy_buckland@ncsu.edu (919) 515-5491        omnipotent"       -- Q
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: linkosal@klaava.Helsinki.FI (Tapio Linkosalo)
Subject: Re: Training on PC's (repost)
Organization: University of Helsinki
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 18:33:36 GMT

Brian Marshall Sadler (bms7y@ggsun.ee.Virginia.EDU) wrote:
> I was surprised when I got no reply (over the holidays)
> so here I go again...
> 
> Anybody using Microsoft Flight Simulator for training?
> How about other software? 

I just flew MS FS today, but there are a few snags in using it for
model training: the plane changes to a point too soon as you
fly away, and if you lose horizont (easily!) you have no idea
how high you are. Nice simulator, though.

Instead during Xmas vacation I saw and tried Dave Brown's
simulator. That looked quite promising. I'm only still
wondering, if I could build controller-box myself and save
$60...

I came to think, that I could connect my Tx (old Futaba) to PC via trainer
cord, but now it seems to me, that there are no separate wires
for each channel, but the information goes 'framed' (as from
Tx to Rx) in trainer cord. Does anyone know radio technics to
know?

Tapio Linkosalo, univ. of Helsinki
internet: tapio.linkosalo@helsinki.fi

Wakefields fly higher!
From: pt28+@andrew.cmu.edu (Paul Yeu-Kwong Tsang)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: bearings and motors
Date: 5 Jan 93 08:57:41 GMT
Article-I.D.: andrew.EfGRcZm00Uh_M2t38j
Organization: Freshman, Music, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA



1.I have read many different and opposing articles on bearings and
cleaning etc. 
Are you supposed to let them run dry or should you use some sort of
lubrication and what sort of lubrication should you use.  I'm mainly
concerned with the wheel bearings for cars and with the attraction of
dirt with lubricants.    

2. Should motor bearings be cleaned any differently and when can you
tell if a motor bearing should be replaced?  

3. Which cause the most damage to a commutator - hard brushes or soft ones?

4. Has anybody tried the hydra drive on a stealth yet? and if so what's
it like?

Thanks in advance

Cheers
Paul
From: pfoss@cmsa.gmr.com (Pete Foss PO/46)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Plastic Spinners in Cold Weather
Date: 11 Jan 93 16:47:15 GMT
Reply-To: pfoss@cmsa.gmr.com
Organization: .................

I have never had a plastic spinner fail at low temperature in 6 years of
winter flying.

Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: D2KAK@VM1.CC.UAKRON.EDU
Subject: Coreless Servos on Y harness
Organization: The University of Akron
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 13:30:13 GMT

In one of my planes it is necessary to use two Futaba coreless servos
on a "Y" harness. The problem is that when the servos are connected
and the radio turned on, the servos chatter like they're trying to
find center all the time. I have tried caps across the power leads,
a stutter stoper (2 parts of a hex inverter on the signal line),
and a seperate battery pack for the servos. NO LUCK. I called those
wonderful folks at Futaba and after being on hold for about 45 minutes
they said that if the servos chatter on a Y harness don't use the servos
on a Y harness. And they pay those guys for this stuff! I have also
experienced the same problem on two different receivers, so the receiver
isn't the problem. The radios are 7UAP 1024 PCMs.  ANY ADVISE, COMMENTS,
SOLUTIONS?  I am considering buying a JR 10 Channel PCM. Do they have the
same problem?     THANKS GROUP!!!!!
From: dont@execu.execu.com (Don Thompson)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Electric Aircraft Publication
Date: 12 Jan 93 18:14:16 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Austin Dev. Center, Comshare Inc.

Hi,
	Is there any publication that is dedicated to electric aircraft?
The single column found in MAN and other mags don't quite seem to cover
all the advances that I have seen and heard about. For instance, this month's
MAN had an article about an all electric fly-in that mentioned electric
ducted fans but did not provide any detail what-so-ever. I think that
topic is worth a series of articles alone. 

If any publisher is listening,
electrics are on the verge of breaking out in a big way. The reliability,
convinence, low noise, and lack of mess cannot be beat by the gas guys. 
The power, weight of batteries, and duration issues are improving almost
daily.
From: lew@4ccvw35.scg.hac.com (Lyman Lew)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: QUERY: Magnum Pro .45
Date: 7 Jan 93 20:37:48 GMT
Reply-To: lew@4ccvw35.UUCP (Lyman Lew)
Organization: Hughes Aircraft Co., El Segundo, CA

In article <3860002@hpcc01.corp.hp.com> phan@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Eric Phan) writes:
>I'm venturing into R/C after talking to people and reading about it for several
>months, and have more or less decided what to get initially.  The equipment
>list looks something like this :
>
>Futaba 7UAPS transmitter/receiver (FF7 Super here in Singapore)
>OS 40FP engine
>Thunder Tiger Right Flyer 40T ARF trainer (repackaged by Hobbico in the US)
>(the other choice is an EZ Sportsman 45H at 65% more in price)
>
>Another dealer here has offered a Right Flyer / Magnum Pro 45 package at an
>attractive price, and I'm tempted to go for that, mainly for the extra power
>(1.4 HP vs 1.0 HP, I think).
>
>Has anyone had any experience with Magnum engines (both the GP and PRO),
>either good or bad ?  Most of the people at the field where I intend to fly
>use OS, so there is a wealth of experience in this engine make.  I'd 
>probably go for the OS for ease of maintenance, especially for a beginner
>like me, but a bit of extra power is tempting.
>
>Thanks in advance for any input.
>
>Eric

Having instructed many beginners in the past, I would recommend the first
package with the lower power OS 40FP. I've seen more beginner get into 
trouble with a higher power setup. I have reviewed the cost of replacing
the piston and cylinder liner on a Magnum and it was outrageous. Lord knows
what they will charge for bearings. The OS 40 FP will be easier on your
pocketbook and is less of an investment. The extra power that the Magnum
puts out is more attractive but I have not found a beginner who can handle
the power should the throttle suddenly be slammed forward. You should
keep your setup simple and easy to maintain. Performance and speed requires
experience and a steady hand.


Good Luck,
Lyman Lew, lew@caesi.scg.hac.com
From: gdh@flight.Eng.Sun.COM (Gary Hethcoat)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Great Planes P-51 & 4-stroke
Date: 6 Jan 93 23:31:59 GMT
Reply-To: gdh@flight.Eng.Sun.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Mountain View, CA
NNTP-Posting-Host: flight

In article 725834413snz@harrier.demon.co.uk, bob@harrier.demon.co.uk (Bob day) writes:

>  Amongst the $500 worth
>  of bits I left with was a Pica P51 kit, the 1/6 scale one cos I have a engine
>  for it... I've had all the bits out of the box several time, looks like
>  really good quality.... Has anyone built/flown one of these?

Not the Mustang, but I'm finishing up the 1/6 FW-190.  Nice kit.  Goes together
well.  I've put flaps and retracts (Spring Air pneumatic) in it and I finished
it with 3/4 oz glass cloth and Pic coating epoxy.  Should come out in the
9-10 lb range.  I'm almost ready to paint it.

I'll post a flying report when it flies.

=Gary

---
Gary Hethcoat      Internal: gdh@flight    Internet: ghethcoat@Eng.Sun.COM
Sun Microsystems, Software Localization     UUCP:  ..!sun!flight!ghethcoat
Seen on the Berlin wall:
	"Stell Dir vor; es ist Krieg, und keiner geht hin."
	(Imagine there was a war and nobody came)
From: phan@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Eric Phan)
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 07:22:09 GMT
Subject: Re: QUERY: Magnum Pro .45
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc

It's me again, and I got this response through e-mail.  I think Ted hit the
"reply" key instead of the "response".  Never mind, I'm reposting it  anyway.

Eric

> 
> From: vanzwol@bcstec.ca.boeing.com (Ted Van Zwol)
> Subject: Re: QUERY: Magnum Pro .45
> Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
> Organization: Boeing
> 
> Could you please forward me your responses?!
> 
> I have a Magnum Pro .45.  I used it for a season before I ditched my plane.
> It's been on my bench since (only an hour away from flight again, though).
> I went with the engine due to price.  I find it to be a great performer.
> Plenty of power and seemed very reliable.  The only problem I had with it
> (well, it wasn't even an engine problem, although at first it seemed so)
> was my intake tube with the clunk in the tank was too long--the fuel was
> foaming up a bit and it would frequently stall.  Once I cut the tub up
> a half inch, I never had any problem.  Unfortunately, I did ditch my plane
> after only a season, so I can't give you any long-term experience re: the
> engine.  But, it sounds like it's your first plane.  Go with a cheaper
> engine, you're going to plant it in the earth at least once.
> 
> I would be interested to hear what others have to say, esp those who've
> used it for more than a season.  Thanks.
> 
> -- 
> Ted C Van Zwol                           |    Genius does what it must,
> uucp:      {...!}uunet!bcstec!vanzwol    |    Talent does what it can.
> internet:  vanzwol@bcstec.ca.boeing.com  |                  -Emerson
>                          ^^^^ new...
> 
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: mmcevill@mitre.org (Michael A. McEvilley)
Subject: Possibley the best spinner (was Re: Plastic Spinners in Cold Weather)
Organization: The MITRE Corporation
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 20:37:13 GMT

In article <1993Jan11.165327.3341@bmerh85.bnr.ca> mkfeil@bcrki9.bnr.ca 
(Max Feil) writes:
> This thread (and the one I started) has reminded me of just what a pain
> spinners are. Maybe we can start a list of pros & cons to the various
> spinners out there.
> 
 Possibly the best spinner on the market (IMO) is Tru-Turn.   They are 
expensive but once you try them  I think you will be willing to put out 
the extra bucks.  They come balanced, are extremely light (thats why 
Pattern flyers love them!), and look good.  I have not had one come loose.

The spinner, backplate and spinner bolt is packaged and sold separate from 
the hardware.  The hardware consists of the prop nut, a washer and bushing 
to adapt the backplate to the crankshaft.  There are prop nuts to support 
all thread diameters and pitch.  Tru-Turn recently introduced a double 
jam-nut prop nut assembly for the YS 120 which works extremely well.

BTW, I think it is recommended that metal spinners be used at RPM's above 
12,000.  I had a goldberg plastic spinner disintegrate on a YS .61 turning 
at 11K+, and that was during break-in!

Michael
From: seanm@terapin.com (Sean McCaskey)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Airborne Battery Monitor Schematic
Date: 10 Jan 93 19:13:51 GMT
Organization: BBS

In article <1993Jan5.154726.12650@mlb.semi.harris.com>,
>
>Disclaimer:
>-----------


  Mark... Your system does not seem to be answering and I have a question for
ya.  I have sent a couple of MAIL messages only to have them bounce.


  You list 3 resistors in your discription and "schematic".  In the schematic
you refer to a 39kohm, r1 and r2.  In the parts list you refer to 820, 220 and
39k ohm resistors.  Which is r1 and which is r2.  I assume the 39kohm is the
same on both (grin).....  HELP!  I want to build several of these and just need
this info to get started.

---Sean---
seanm@terapin.com
Xref: sparky rec.models.rc:5284 news.answers:4898
From: bill@ssr.hp.com (Bill Chidester)
Subject: Re: Jet engines...
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 14:51:11 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Orlando Fl.
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8.2]

David Svoboda (svoboda@rtsg.mot.com) wrote:
:| a multibladed prop (or fan) inside a shroud.  There are also stationary
:| blades which serve to "unscrew" the air, resulting in a more laminar airflow

: Laminar?  I think not.

  I was careful to use the precisely vague "more laminar" since it's not
  nearly as efficient as contra-rotating fans.  If you have a right hand
  prop spinning opposite to a left hand prop, near enough to be tightly
  coupled, the result is three times thrust, instead of the intuitively
  expected two times thrust. 
  
  It's the translation of the air motion spinning around the axis of travel
  into air that is moving in a column parallel to the axis that gives the
  "gain".  At any rate, the static blades are there to translate rotational
  force to linear force, but there isn't an equal amount of opposite force
  at opposite rotational frequency, so there's not as much "gain" realized
  by using static blades.

  If somebody wanted to advance the state of RC modeling, they could develop
  an affordable contra-rotating transmission for the RC airplane engine.  It 
  would pay for itself by fixing tail heavy planes and giving a .40 size
  engine .60 sized performance.  Not to mention calming the "take off, roll
  left" effects for beginners.  You could also break two props at once...

-----------------------------
Bill Chidester     Fan Engineer 1969
		      (Retired) 1970
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: mkfeil@bcrki9.bnr.ca (Max Feil)
Subject: Power panel glow driver modification
Organization: Bell-Northern Research
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 93 14:05:53 GMT

<I'm reposting the previous article, this article, and the next one due to
 server problems>

I just wanted to write a short note about a problem I recently had with my
Tower Hobbies power panel. There's a 100K potentiometer which controls the
pulse width of the glow driver output, thereby controlling the amps going
through the glow plug (higher resistance == more current). Unfortunately, my
pot got a bit dirty and starting producing open-circuit faults. The designers
thought of this (kind of) since two of the pot leads are wired together to
ensure that the resistance is never more than the 100K rated value of the pot.
Unfortunately this is like turning the pot all the way up (plus a bit), and my
poor 1.5 volt glow plugs vapourize in a fraction of a second.

Since I never turn the dial past half way anyways, I figured I would put a 100K
fixed resistor in parallel with the pot, effectively turning it into a 50K pot.
This way, the worst that can happen is that my glow plug will light correctly!
I now have to turn the dial up all the way (instead of half way) to get a
healthy glow, but I sure won't be burning up any more plugs unnecessarily.

Cheers!
Max

P.S. I cleaned the pot too.
--
Max Feil  mkfeil@bnr.ca | Disclaimer:
Bell-Northern Research  |   What do I know? I'm just a Nerd on the Big Ranch.
P.O Box 3511 Station C, |
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada.| "Enrich The Soil, Not EveryBody's Goal" Peter Gabriel
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: patch@sequent.com (Pat Chewning)
Subject: Re: Coreless Servos on Y harness
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems, Inc.
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 93 17:05:26 GMT

In article <16B4D7795.D2KAK@VM1.CC.UAKRON.EDU> D2KAK@VM1.CC.UAKRON.EDU writes:
>In one of my planes it is necessary to use two Futaba coreless servos
>on a "Y" harness. The problem is that when the servos are connected
>and the radio turned on, the servos chatter like they're trying to
>find center all the time. 

>The radios are 7UAP 1024 PCMs.  ANY ADVISE, COMMENTS,
>SOLUTIONS?  I am considering buying a JR 10 Channel PCM. Do they have the
>same problem?     THANKS GROUP!!!!!
>

The "Y" harness might be acting like an antenna and causing interference
with the receiver.  I have had this problem and fixed it by running the base
of the "Y" cable through a ferite bead (one turn) to choke off the RF. This
worked with an airtronics receiver.  When I install servos in the wings of
my gliders I go ahead and put the ferrite bead in every installation and
have not had any problems since.

If your Futaba has a DSC cable (connects transmitter to receiver, for
running servos without the RF deck installed, neat feature found on JR X347
and other radios), then use it to determine if it is radio interference or
some other problem.  I am not familiar with coreless servos, and why they
may be more susceptible to noise.  Have you tried connecting any other
servos to this "Y" cable and see if the problem goes away?
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: "B.Eckenfels" <UKD1@DKAUNI2.BITNET>
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: (yellow) SUB-Marine (experts wanted)
Date: 8 Jan 1993 21:12:02 +0100
Organization: University of Karlsruhe, Germany
Distribution: world

-----------------------------------------------------------------------+--------
Hello World,

  ... I'm thinking about building a RC SUB-MARINE, because I'm interrested
  in the technics (Well hope you understand). I want to exchange some
  experiences whith somebody else (perhaps U?).
  We are talking about the stuff in DE.REC.MODELLE (Germany).

  I hope I can summarize some Mail from you to this NG.

CUL8ER ('Bis bald' as we call it in Germany) Bernd

P.S. Thanx in advance...

---- S-MAIL -----+---------------------------------------------+      ,,,
BERND  ECKENFELS !     VOICE: +7257 / 3817  (2 WordsPerSecond) !     (o o)
WITTUMSTRASSE 13 !    BITNET: UKD1@DKAUNI2.BITNET              +-oOO--(_)--OOo-
W7520 BRUCHSAL 4 !  INTERNET: UKD1@IBM3090.RZ.UNI-KARLSRUHE.DE !              !
 G E R M A N Y   !  NICKNAME: ECKENFEL (only local available)  ! Comp.Science !
-----------------+---------------------------------------------+--------------+
:-) (Hi,I'm a signature VIRUS, pleas copy me into *YOUR* signature) V1.0
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: svoboda@rtsg.mot.com (David Svoboda)
Subject: Re: Spinner backplate slippage cure
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1993 19:44:24 GMT

In article <1993Jan8.231508.12301@bmerh85.bnr.ca> mkfeil@bcrki9.bnr.ca (Max Feil) writes:
|
|Good points. My disks are quite brittle, 

Just a little thing about brittle cutoff disks--if you apply CA to the disk,
so it soaks in evenly all over, it cuts just as well and is MUCH stronger.
I used to use the "weaved" style of cutoff disk, until I did this, and I haven't
broken one yet, they just wear out.

			Dave Svoboda, Palatine, IL
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: svoboda@rtsg.mot.com (David Svoboda)
Subject: Re: SCALE RIVITS????
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 07:58:43 GMT

In article <6880007@hpindda.cup.hp.com> chrisd@hpindda.cup.hp.com (Chris Douglas) writes:
|
|For scale modeling, how do you simulate rivits?  Specifically, I plan
|on doing some WWII fighter.  I don't want "stand off" scale rivits.
|I'm more intrested in something that really looks like rivits.

No, no, the Rivets was a pre-WWII racing plane...

Oh, you meant those little fastener thingys...  NEVER MIND!

Be aware that many WWII planes had flush rivets, so you may not want
to take the advice I'm about to give.  Get documentation, before playing.

You can make nice scale round-head rivets by taking a syringe with needle
(obtaining this is left to the imagination--my father is a retired dentist :-)
filled with aliphatic resin, or even white glue.  Practice on a scrap peice of
plywood (don't use raw balsa--the glue soaks in too much) until you can get
nice little dollops of glue, scale in size.  The smaller the rivets you want,
the thinner the glue must be (you can thin aliphatic with water, thicken it
by freezing).  Now, *after base finishing*, draw a straight line along the
rivet line (very lightly) with a pencil.  I just apply the rivets by hand,
using small penciled hash marks to get them even.  It helps a lot if you
get some *good* scale documentation on your subject, to get the size and
pattern of rivets.  Often, several sizes of rivets were used on a given
surface.  Anyway, after you finish dolloping on all the rivets you want, and
carefully removing and replacing the ones you screwed up :-), let the whole
thing set overnight.  In the morning, take a small eraser and take off all
the little pencil lines.  Then use your favorite paint, and there you go.

			Dave Svoboda, Palatine, IL