HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: eliot@chutney.rtp.dg.com (Topher Eliot)
Subject: Re: Chevy Headliner Replacement
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 92 20:41:35 GMT
Distribution: na
Reply-To: eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com
Organization: Data General Corporation, Research Triangle Park, NC

I can tell you one thing that doesn't work:  spraying on spray adhesive that
comes from an cloth shop.  The headliner fell down in less time than it took
me to put it up.

-- 
Topher Eliot             Data General DG/UX Systems Administration Development
(919) 248-6371      eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com       {backbone}!mcnc!rti!dg-rtp!eliot
Obviously, I speak for myself, not for DG.
misc.consumers.house archivist.  Send mail to house-archive@dg-rtp.dg.com
"Daddy, did you know that super banana squash is a vampire?  And he drinks
blood from cactuses?"  -- Tommy, age 3.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: leath@atlas.cs.upei.ca (Stephen Leath)
Subject: Brake Peddle problem.
Originator: leath@atlas.cs.upei.ca
Organization: University of Prince Edward Island
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 12:13:54 GMT

The brake peddle on my 85 Dodge Caravan stops after being depressed about 1
inch. It is like hitting a steel wall. THe pads are new the rotors have been
refaced and the calipers have been checked, any suggestions ? What would be
the symptoms of air in the brake lines ?

Thanks in advance,
Steve Leath  UPEI Computer Services.


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: leath@atlas.cs.upei.ca (Stephen Leath)
Subject: Brake peddle not fully depressable ?
Originator: leath@atlas.cs.upei.ca
Vehicle: 85 Dodge Caravan. 
Organization: University of Prince Edward Island
Problem: When applying the brakes the peddle stops after 1 inch, it is like
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 16:51:31 GMT

Thanks in advance,
Steve
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk (Codesmiths)
Subject: Re: grinding gears when revving engine at high speed
Cc: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Reply-To: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 02:04:00 +0000


> >When I rev the engine to nearly redline, shifting to second gear is
> >very tricky.  I try to pull the shifter into second, and instead of
> >going in, it gives resistance and the transmission makes a very loud
> >grinding sound.



> You could try double-clutching, or shifting g after holding the cluthc
> down for a sec,

What ?

He's changing *up* a gear.


I don't think you can improve matters (unless there is a problem with
the gearbox). Every gearbox has a limit to how fast you can change
gear, and it sounds like you've reached it.  It *should* handle it
though - perhaps your synchros are worn out ?

You will probably find (especially if 1st is very low) that you'll
accelerate better by starting the run-up in second. The over-gearing
early on is compensated for by not needing to change gear.

What you *really* need is a close ratio gearbox. The ratios are closer
together so that you can skip between them more easily, also keeping
the engine closer to its optimum power band. The downside is (unless
you have a 6 speed box, like the new GM Vauxhall Calibra) that a higher
bottom gear can make driving awkward at times, and/or the lower top
gear increases cruising fuel consumption.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: eap@leland.Stanford.EDU (Eric Perozziello)
Subject: Re: Increasing power?
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 92 19:13:58 GMT

>
>What's the net.wisdom on manual transmissions instead of
>automatics?  I know that torque converters are very inefficient,
>wasting perhaps 10-15% of engine power.  However, they are a good,
>repeatable way to get the engine up to high RPM.
>

My experiences with manual vs. auto is about 5-7 years old. Technology
may have changed. 
One advantage to auto's is the slippage- An ideal setup would be to
have the engione always running at its peak HP RPM, and just change
the drive ratio.  So a fluid coupling, like a torque converter
can be good (if it doesn't waste to much energy in doing this).
Theory aside, one big advantage on the track (if winning is your goaal,
not just the fastest time), is that autos are far more consistant
than manuals, so you can dial in closer to your test run time. (of course,
I'm tsalking about drag raciung here). 
I've also found that friends (as well as myself) have found that
changing from a manual to an auto can improve qtr mi times, when the 
proper rear-end gears are used. (Usually manuals need lower (higher
numerically) gear ratios in simmilar setups, because the manual ain't
got no slippage). Of course , some people say this is cause I don't
know how to drive a manual tranny car that turns 11's.  Might be true!.
Most people's instincts tell them "manuals are faster", but that's
because they ain't never driven a full blown  racing auto trans.  I have
one in my 'coupe, with full manual valve body and a 4500 equiv stall
(i think that's what the manufacturer said it was). 

oh well, just my thoughts.


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dye@i88.isc.com (Ken R. Dye )
Subject: GM RWD (camaro/firebird/Blazer/etc.) axle codes needed
Organization: INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation, Naperville, IL
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 19:03:08 GMT


	A friend is purchasing a used S-10 Blazer, and wants
to make sure he gets the 3.42 rear end (rather than the 3.08).
Anyone out there know the proper option code?  I seem to remember
(from my firebird days) codes like GU4, GU6, GM3...but can't
for the life of me remember which code relates to what axle
ratio.  I know the "order the package" option is G92, but
this will only appear on the order form, not the equipment
list sticker in the glovebox.  Thanks!

--Ken


-- 
Ken R. Dye				an optimist is a guy		 |
Interactive Systems Corp., Chicago	that has never had		 | 
(800) LAI-UNIX x341			much experience			 |
dye@i88.isc.comm						archy	 |
From: barkerb@slab.unt.edu (BOB BARKER)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: MR2 Idle Problems
Date: 24 Jul 92 18:38:29 GMT
Organization: School of Library & Info Sci, UNT

I have an '88 MR2 (naturally aspirated), stock except for a TRD (nee HKS) 
muffler system (hi-flow muffler with resonator replacing the cat. converter) 
and a K & N air filter.  The problem that I continue to have is the the idle 
is usually rough and unsteady and, at speed, I am getting a lot of 
detonation on acceleration, but not all the time.  I now have 64,000 miles 
on the car and had the timing belt replaced at 55,000 and the whole thing 
re-timed with little lasting change in performance.  The car will act as 
though it is missing below 1000 rpm but seems to smooth out above that 
somewhat.  I would expect a rough idle if the car was cammed accordingly, 
but it is stock with the exception of the items it previously mentioned.  I 
am confused and frustrated.  I have changed plugs up and down in the heat 
range to try to cure the problem, changed plug leads, air filter, etc, 
etc..  I even talked to the good folks at TRD to see if the addition of the 
free breathing gear I put on there would have an effect on the flow sensor 
and the mixture computer.  They said it would not affect anything 
appreciably.  Ergo, I am back at square one.  HELP!!  Any ideas would be 
greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

Bob Barker
INTERNET BARKERB@SLAB.UNT.EDU
From: agrawal@lipari.usc.edu (Amitabh Agrawal)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Starting out?
Date: 26 Jul 1992 13:12:55 -0700
Organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA
Distribution: rec
NNTP-Posting-Host: lipari.usc.edu


Hi,

I have a 84 Mazda GLC Dlx (83K) and was thinking of doing most of the
work on the car myself. So far I have virtually no experience with
cars so needed some advice as to how difficult/time consuming this is?

What are the minimum tools that I need to be able to start working on
the car? Should I buy the tools as I need or is there a minimum tool
box that I should get? Which is the best (cost effective) tool box to
get? 

I have the Hayne's Mazda book(I think). Is there some other book that
I should buy? What is a good book to understand the basics of the
various subsystems of car (e.g. how does an automatic transmission
work).

I was thinking of changing the engine oil/filter by myself next
weekend. Can I screw it up in a big way? 

Thanks a million

Amitabh Agrawal
From: frank@marvin.contex.com (Frank Perdicaro)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Engine removal in an 1977 Olds Cutlass
Date: 21 Jul 92 13:10:38 GMT
Organization: Xyvision Design Systems

In article <Brorwo.9nJ@acsu.buffalo.edu> bphdarcy@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (SJ Roc D'Arcy, MBP) writes:
>I am pulling the engine out of my 1977 Olds Cutlass for the first time.
>In disconnecting the engine from the transmission, can easily remove all 
>the bolts except the second one from the top (or bottom) on the drivers
>side.  I can not imagine how to get at this bolt as the firewall is almost
>right up against it.  I have tried five different kinds of wrenches and 
>a slew of ratchets.  Has anyone else ever run into this problem and
>if so what were their solutions.  
>
Aaaaaahhhh yessssss.  I remember this one, and I now know how to deal
with it.  Its not hard if you know the trick.  

There is a cutout/dent in the sheet metal of the transmission tunnel
to deal with this problem.  You need a 3/8" drive flex head 9/16
socket and about 20" of extension.  Slide under the driver's side
door with a bright light.  Get your head back to about the middle of
the driver's door, but kinda near the tranny.  Now look at the bolt.
There it is, right through that slot in the sheet metal.  It may help
if you illuminate the bolt head from above, too.  Slide the socket up
there and crank away.

I thought for a long time before I found this ( now obvious ) solution.
Yes, its completely impossible to remove this bolt from above, at
least with the tools I have.
-- 
	 Frank E Perdicaro, Systems Admin, etc.		Xyvision Color Systems
      Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.		101 Edgewater Drive
   inhouse: frank@marvin, x5572				Wakefield MA
outhouse: frank@contex.com, 617-245-4100x5572		018801285
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: STALLING ENGINE
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 13:00:53 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 Sounds like a lean condition. First off replace or plug off any broken vacuum
hoses. Then make sure the choke is operating freely; it sounds like maybe the
fast idle is not operating. You can't tell much about the carb when it's being
confounded with vacuum leaks.
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
From: muh@physics20 (Yury M. Mukharsky)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Wanted: Toyota Starlet service manuals.
Date: 27 Jul 1992 18:40:17 GMT
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: physics20.berkeley.edu

Title says it. Thanks for reading.

Yury.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: eap@leland.Stanford.EDU (Eric Perozziello)
Subject: Re: resetting 'emissions' warning on Chevette?
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 92 01:20:35 GMT

In article <1992Jul27.210331.388@samba.oit.unc.edu> bjy@med.unc.edu (Brian J. Young) writes:
>Anyone know how to reset the emissions warning on a 1982 Chevette?  It is
>a 'flag' on which is written "emissions" and partially obscures the odometer.
>Many thanks in advance.
>
>-Brian

First try disconnecting the battery for a few seconds and then reconnecting.


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: Increasing power?
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 20:11:12 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 Dump trucks and semi tractors are typically diesels. Heavy diesels do not
seem to have a very wide power band and between that and the need to get
extremely heavy loads moving and up hills, these trucks have a need for
transmissions with 10+ speeds forward and significantly higher output shaft
torque. This makes for a very heavy transmission as a manual. An automatic
that can take that type of loading would be extremely long (everything is in
one line on an auto) and probably even heavier. The trucks also depend on 
the gearbox to supplement the braking ability on grades, something autos
are not good for. The limited market probably keeps many manufacturers from
being interested in pursuing large multispeed automatics. Some do offer
them however; I know Greyhound buses are automatics, and I believe some 
semis offer them. Engine braking is an important capability though to give
up.
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rick@posms.cactus.org (Rick Kirchhof)
Subject: Re: Altitude effects on ignition timing
Organization: Department of Redundancy Dept., Austin
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 1992 17:02:58 GMT

In article <1992Jul23.192955.2179@unislc.uucp> wcr@unislc.uucp (William Rankin) writes:
>I seem to recall that on non-computer controlled (mid 70s) cars that
>the ignition timing should be adjusted for altitude. Anybody able to
>verify this and if so, what is the adjustment ( degrees + or - per 1000')
>The GM factory shop manuals don't say anything about altitude adjustments.
>Just so I dont misunderstand, advance is more deg before TDC and retard
>is less deg before TDC, true? The factory setting is 20 deg BTDC.
>Since this car is already equipped with high-altitude emissions, perhaps
>they already factored in an altitude advance into this number.
>Any comments welcome.

In general, the formula is 1 degree of additional ignition advance for
each 1000 feet of additional elevation.

Example: spec is 6 degrees BTDC.  Your car runs fine like this, you move
to 4500 feet higher than you were.  Change to 10.5 degrees BTDC to maintain
the same performance.  The formula works in reverse too.  This does not
address the change in air/fuel mixture which will occur.  Mixture gets
richer as you gain elevation, leaner as you loose elevation.

Disclaimer:  The above applies to non-computer controlled ignition
advance.  If your computer is in change of ignition advance, most cars
will make this correction without permission or notice to you.
-- 
Rick Kirchhof   Austin, Texas                   | Experience is what you
Domain: rick@posms.cactus.org                   | get when you don't
Bang path: ...!cs.utexas.edu!peyote!posms!rick  | get what you want.            
===========================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: VAPOR LOCK!!!
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 12:28:34 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 There are two types of electric fuel pumps that I know of. One is a rotary
type (impeller) and the other is a reciprocating, solenoid driven diaphragm
type. The second type is quite unpleasant and sounds like a small 
jackhammer. Either type will produce some noise. The noise is going to be
worse if it is bolted directly to the frame. You can make things quieter by
cobbling up a soft mounting arrangement. Muffler hangers may work for you -
the type with two steel straps joined by a laminated rubber piece. You may
have to run a ground strap to the pump body from the frame. If so make it
oversized and firmly attached. Do not draw your ground current through the
fuel lines.
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
From: Steve.Kaess@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Steve Kaess)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: STALLING ENGINE
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 02:20:08 -0500

 > AMC 360 V8. I have been having a hard time getting it started
 > when the engine
 > is cold. A squirt of Starting Fluid in the carb starts
 > it right up.
 > To keep it running then I have to hold the gas pedal down
 > til the engine is
 > warm. With the engine warm the car idles fine and will
 > restart
 > easily. WHat would cause this sort of problem?
 > The Jeep also will stall out when driving. It accelerates
 > fine
 > but if I hit the brakes(power) or try to turn sharply it
 > stalls.
 > I have driven it about 3 blocks to the gas station to put
 > some
 > fresh gas in the tank.
 >
 > Details:
 > Jeep has been sitting for several years. The exhaust is
 > incomplete
 > and many of the vacuum hoses are broke. I have not checked
 > the
 > gas tank for water yet. I was hoping to get some idea of
 > where the
between the vaccuum lines and the exhaust your problems may well 
lie...replace all the vaccuum lines-on the mid 70's amc's the a/c 
panel often leaked vaccuum too and put an exhaust on it...should 
be a big improvment!!



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: alter@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (Eric Alter)
Subject: Re: Increasing power?
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 15:13:30 GMT
Distribution: na
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM Rochester

In article <1992Jul29.094119.20703@mr.med.ge.com>, hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987) writes:
|> tgl@slee01.srl.ford.com (Tom Leone) writes:
|> : 
|> : What's the net.wisdom on manual transmissions instead of
|> : automatics?  I know that torque converters are very inefficient,
|> : wasting perhaps 10-15% of engine power.  However, they are a good,
|> : repeatable way to get the engine up to high RPM.
|> : 
|> IMHO, I'd have to say that the only time I'd have an automatic is if I had to
|> drive in traffic often.  A manual is a pain at these times.
|> 
|> If you are looking for performance, you can most likely learn how to
|> shift at MUCH better times than an automatic would.  They are usually
|> set up for mileage rather than performace, and don't take the engine
|> up to optimal power range before shifting.
|> 
|> --
|> 
|> Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
|> SAAB - you get what you pay for; you pay for what you get.
|> hinz@picard.med.ge.com
|> 
|> 

One option I've been thinking of doing is to purchase the performance computer
ROM replacements (Hypertech and/or other manuf.).  These do little for manuals,
but do affect automatic trans. performance.  I would imaging that they are
"geared" more towards performance than mileage (within ROM change limits of
course).

The review in Hot Rod (sometime in '91, don't know exactly when) reported
respectable gains, ~1 sec qtr mile time improvement, with an automatic.  Not too
bad for someone like me who doesn't have the ability or knowledge to make major
changes to an auto.

my 2 cents worth...
-- 

Eric Alter		alter@rchland.ibm.com
IBM Corporation		Rochester, Mn
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: What does GT mean in all these sports models ?
From: derek@nezsdc.icl.co.nz (Derek Tearne)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 92 22:32:34 GMT
Organization: Fujitsu New Zealand

It stands for Gran Turismo (I think that is spelt right).

Or Grand Tourer in English.

The curious thing is you would generally associate a convertible
with the Grand tour<tm> (of Europe) in question,  yet GT cars,
almost by definition, all have a roof.  

The alternative explanation is that Gin and Tonic is the drink of 
choice for the drivers of such vehicles.

Derek "I'll have a Gt or a G&T but not a GT" Tearne


-- 
Derek Tearne  derek@icl.co.nz or derek@fivegl.co.nz --Fujitsu SDC,Auckland,NZ

My 'self aware' .signature file failed his Turing test.  
It turns out he was just a chess playing midget in a decorative box.
From: ccm038@rosie.ucdavis.edu (Jason Yan (can cook))
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Door/vanity lights won't come on
Date: 27 Jul 92 18:57:06 GMT
Organization: Computing Services, UC Davis
Originator: ccm038@rosie.ucdavis.edu


A while back, the fuse for my door lights, vanity lights, trunk blew
out.  I tried replacing the fuse with the correct one, but each time,
it would blow out on contact.  Am I supposed to switch the vanity
lights to the OFF position before sticking in the fuse?  Or is
there a short somewhere that I should look for?  It's an 86.5
Toyota Supra.

I've been living without door lights for the last half a year, and
it doesn't really make that big of a difference, but every now and
then, I'd like to be able to see the inside of my car at night.
You know, maps and stuff.

If someone with a 86+ Supra can tell me which way the two switches
above the rear-view mirror for the reading lights should be switched
for OFF, please tell me.  

Any help appreciated!

					Jason Yan
					ccm038@fred.ucdavis.edu
From: Uucp@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Uucp)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Alfa brakes
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 08:34:17 -0500

To: eur@dutncp2.tn.tudelft.nl

To: Eur van Andel

 UF> >Before installing new pads, you must completely back off the parking 
 UF> brake cable
 UF> >linkage adjustments. The pad-to-rotor clearance must then be set to 
 UF> .006 inch.
 UF> Yeah. Well, I bought an $20 6mm imbus tool with a 1/4'' square to 
 UF> loosen the 
 UF> six bolts on the CV joint (I do have the new model that is the same as 
 UF> the 75)
 UF> on the junkyard after I grinded mine to bits & pieces. 
 UF> 
 UF> After spending some 8 hours under my car, I managed to get the caliper 
 UF> off,

Sorry you are having so much trouble. Back in 1967, I was working in Holland and
had an Alfa Giulia Spyder that I drove every day from Laren NH down to Rijswijk;
very pleasant drive, and the car proved very reliable (disk front/drum rear, as
you probably know). Sold it to one of my Dutch friends, an Amsterdammer, who
drove it into the ground. First driving at night on the Autoweg with only
parking lights on (usual practice), he ran into a railroad tie that had dropped
off a truck. Then he ran it too fast without oil and blew the engine; I helped
him rebuild it.

After returning to the States, I bought a used Giulietta Sprint Veloce (101
series). No problems with that one either, except body rust (trunk); wish I
still had it, because it was a lot of fun to drive and they are worth a fair
amount of money now.

Also had an Alfa 2600 Coupe for a short while. I think a heater hose had come
loose or blown some time before I acquired it; could never get rid of the smell
in the cockpit, so I had to get rid of it.

There was a time when you could buy Alfa convertibles very cheap here, but no
more. Although yours is evidently a small sedan, it seems to me that the low
amount you paid for it gives you a fair amount of leeway in paying to get it
fixed up, before you have too much invested n the car.

BTW, although a fair number of Alfettas were imported into the U.S., I still
think that few if any of the Giulietta model were brought in by the
distributor.

                                Frank Mallory
                                frank.mallory@blkcat.fidonet.org

(P.S. - I tried to send the above via email, but couldn't get through)



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jayc@hubcap.clemson.edu (Jay Crawford)
Subject: Paint Problem on New Car
Keywords: paint
Organization: Clemson University
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1992 12:51:21 GMT

I washed my new car (6 months old) because it had some tree and bird droppings
on it.  When I was drying, it looked like I had not washed all the stains off.
I began to rewash these areas, only to see that the stains *were* gone, but it
looked as if the outline of the stains were still there.  The area feels smooth
to the touch, and yet it seems like the "ghosts" of the stains remain *under*
the clear coat.  Is this possible?  Anyone have any idea what's happening and
how I can fix this?  Thanks.
-- 
Jay Crawford          
jayc@hubcap.clemson.edu