HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: mwalker@chama.eece.unm.edu (Mark Walker)
Subject: Re: Mystery Engine Code!
Date: Fri, 08 Jan 93 22:12:07 GMT
Organization: University of New Mexico, Albuquerque

> I was experiencing some very rough running of my '88 Thunderbird Turbo
> last week.  I took it into a garage that does diagnostics, and
> the mechanic obtained the codes in memory.  He came up with
> a '30' which he said didn't exist in any of his manuals.  Does

Was this a Ford dealer?  Sometimes I've run into garages that just
don't have the full scoop on a car.

> anyone know why a computer would spit a code that doesn't exist?

Computers in general are nortorious for spitting out wierd stuff when
they get confused.  A simple example that happened recently to me
involved a programmable thermostat for the furnace in my house.  One day
after working fine for whole 6 months we've owned the house it decided it
couldn't keep the correct time.  On top of that it would lose or gain
an hour whenever the manual override was used to raise or lower the temp.
for the current period (morning, day, evening or night).

To make a long story short I finally had to unplug it from the
wallplate to remove all power to the unit and let it set for a while
(it took a couple of minutes just for the LCD display to go blank).
When I plugged it back in the default program displayed and it behaved
normally when overriding the temp setting.

I know computers are supposed to be infallible, but static can scramble
'em, and sometimes they just break.  Don't know if yours is permanently
sick, but before you buy a new one maybe disconnecting it completely and
trying again would help.  (Of course if you do this it will probably run
a bit wierd for a while as the computer redicovers just what your engine
needs.)

> Any insight would be helpful.
> 
> Adam
> 
> awds_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu

-- 
 I daydream about fusing two Buick	| Mark Walker 
 V6s into a V12 and stuffing it into	| mwalker@chama.eece.unm.edu.
 a chopped '53 Buick Super...		| 505/277-3688  (home 899-0644)
 	Am I sick or what?		|
From: koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Carter Quadrajet?
Date: 10 Jan 93 17:07:40 GMT
Article-I.D.: nosc.1993Jan10.170740.5731
Distribution: usa
Organization: Naval Ocean Systems Center, San Diego

In article <1993Jan09.033725.5851@eng.umd.edu> floyd@eng.umd.edu (Greg Butler) writes:
 
>Is that a typo?  Everyone knows Quadrajets are (were) made by
>Rochester, right?  That's what I thought until I picked one up
>the other day that had written on the side:
 
>     "MFD BY
>      CARTER
>      CARBURETOR

yep, I've seen 'em, I know someone that's got on on a '72 Pontiac Bonneville
with 455cid... yep, you *are* gonna have fun convincing parts-store counter-hlp
that you're not halucinating... but don't give up, the correct parts are
available, you just gotta look for 'em.


Walt K.
From: ehsan@attila.weitek.COM (Ehsan Kalami)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: cant locate the fuel filter
Date: 12 Jan 93 20:39:32 GMT
Reply-To: ehsan@attila.UUCP ()
Organization: WEITEK, Sunnyvale CA

I was trying to replace the fuel filter on my mercury marquis and after spending
a long time had no luck fining it on the car. anyody know where these things are
put. it;s 1983 V6 model.
thanks 

please email to ehsan@weitek.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: 5121cal@troy.cc.bellcore.com (leising,christopher a)
Subject: GMC S-15 Jimmy Head Gasket
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 93 14:00:04 GMT
Keywords: 2.8 V6

Hi,

My 1985 S-15 GMC Jimmy (2.8L V6) has been using about a quart of coolant 
per week (approx. 200 miles) for the last month or so. I'm thinking 
head gasket, as I'm seeing gas bubbles in the coolant in the radiator 
and not finding any external leaks (there's also no coolant in the tranny 
or engine oil, so I think it's dropping into a cylinder and burning). 
Its got 94K miles on the original motor, which seems to be in great shape 
otherwise, but all those years of lugging around with the *!^%700R4 auto 
have probably overstressed the gasket.
Anyway, I was wondering if anybody had any experience they'd like to share 
on this. Specifically, any idea how long I can go before the gasket really
deteriorates? Assuming I need to change it, should I do just the offending
cylinder bank, or should I do both? Good idea to do valve seals on this
motor while I'm in there? Any things I should look out for? Thanks for any
help!

Chris Leising

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: smangan@src.honeywell.com (Stefanos Manganaris)
Subject: 1987 Rx-7 turbo II: Horsepower?
Organization: Honeywell Systems & Research Center
Distribution: rec
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 05:19:30 GMT


Does anybody know?

Thanks,

Stef.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: adhir@wam.umd.edu (Al Dhir)
Subject: Problems with my Jeep (AMC 4.2L 258)
Organization: University of Maryland, College Park
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 17:29:29 GMT

Hey all...  I just discovered this newsgroup and am happy to find a source
for solving my problems :)

Here it is:  My '85 Jeep CJ7 has a 4.2L 258 with a Carter BBD 2 barrel carb.
I recently replaced the plugs, wires, cap and rotor and the engine sounds
real good - when it starts.  The problem is that it is a major pain to
start.  I have turn it over and keep pumping the gas over and over until
it starts to fire and finally it starts.  It seems like the fuel isn't 
getting to the carb very easily.  Once the engine warms up, though, it
starts just fine.

The battery is strong and it turns the engine over with no problem...it
just doesn't seem to be firing when its cold for some reason. 

So what could it be?  Could antifreeze have anything to do with it?  How
about a problem with my automatic choke on my carb?  I don't think its
the fuel pump since it is fairly new (about 6 months).

Last question:  A previous post mentioned decarbonizing using the "water in
the carb" method which gave him lots of additional power and apparently all
his problems went away.  How do I go about decarbonizing the engine?  He
mentioned squirting water into the carb with the engine revving high, but
do I remove the air cleaner first or what?

Thanks for all the help...

-- 
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 Al Dhir                      			   Technical Consulting Staff
 Internet: adhir@cygnus.umd.edu	  	 University of Maryland, College Park
 Bitnet:   adhir%cygnus.umd.edu@Interbit      (301) 405-1500 * (301) 405-3014
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Subject: Soviet Air-cooled diesel engines
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 9 Jan 93 21:16:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> "Adiabatic" is the correct term.  It refers to a thermodynamic
-> assumption that the heat engine process has no external transfer of
-> heat.  It is not really achieved in a real system, but
-> efficiency is gained if heat losses to a cooling system are
-> minimized.

 I guess I'm a little more stringent than you are.  So instead of
rejecting the heat to the radiator, it joins with what's going out the
exhaust pipe.  Big deal.
From: ken.akridge@cutting.hou.tx.us (Ken Akridge) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Z-car Mailing List Monthl
Date: 6 Jan 93 09:09:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: The Cutting Edge - Houston, TX - 713-466-1525
Reply-To: ken.akridge@cutting.hou.tx.us (Ken Akridge) 

subscribe ken.akridge@cutting.hou.tx.us
---
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| Houston, Texas, USA    +1 713 466 1525          running uuPCB       |
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From: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: cleaning solvents
Date: 4 Jan 93 11:21:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Ye Olde Bailey BBS - Houston, TX - 713-520-1569
Reply-To: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 

  >>>Date: 2 Jan 93 16:56:00 GMT >>>Reply-To:
  dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)


DW>>> I'm now the happy owner of a solvent tank.  My wife picked it up at a
  >>>company auction for $40.  It's made of 1/8 steel plate with a
  >>>counterbalanced lid and even has provision for a 6" vent stack.  It
  >>>apparently was filled with lacquer thinner before we got it.  (phew!)
  >>>It holds approximately 50 gallons. (200 liters)

DW>>> For some reason it doesn't have a drain plug, which I will remedy
  >>>before I put it into use.  The question is, what do I put in it?  It
  >>>will be primarily used for cleaning cylinder heads and engine blocks.
  >>>I could get some appropriate heating elements if required, but I'd just
  >>>as soon use it cold.

DW>>> There are, so far as I know, no local environmental restrictions on
  >>>solvents.
..
Hi,
        I'm sure there are restrictions on the DISPOSAL of the solvents.
        Safety Clean Corp. (leading commercial supplier of shop
        cleaners) uses something VERY simular to mineral spirits. Not
        wanting that I suggest Diesel Fuel.
                                                        Don
p.s.
        I don't know if your tank is equipped for FIRE contingencys but
        I would look into it. Once again, Safety Clean uses a Button on
        the lid that melts in case of fire. The button will melt and
        drop the lid over the sink and smother any fire..


 * SLMR 2.1a * I put spot remover on my dog....Spots gone!
                          
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|   Houston,Texas          yob.sccsi.com       Home of alt.cosuard       |
+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
From: dnwangus@flash.LakeheadU.Ca (Dave Angus)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: How do you determine correct tire pressure?
Date: 4 Jan 1993 09:33:14 GMT
Organization: Lakehead University, Thunder Bay, Ont., Canada


What's the right way to figure out what tire pressure to use?
The owner's manual gives suggestions, but those are for the
stock tires, and most of us are running something different.

Is it true that looking at the contact patch is the only way
to be sure?  If that is the case, then I guess I could jack
up a wheel, roll something like ink onto the bottom of the
tire, then lower it onto a flat surface to make an impression
of the contact patch. 

Is there a more correct way?

regards,
--
Dave Angus                                   "Kundalini wants his hand back"
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ajb8886@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Subject: Escort tachometer
Reply-To: ajb8886@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 21:59:09 GMT

I know someone with an Escort wagon that's been having an annoying little
problem. 

The car runs quite well, and has an automatic transmission.  It also has a 
tachometer.   

It's the tach that's driving them nuts.  It works fine when you start it in 
the morning, and works fine indefinitely until you shut off the car, and
leave it parked in the sun.  Then, when you start the car again, the tach
is dead.  

Apparently it works again only when the car has been parked in the shade.
No other problems have manifested themselves.

Anyone experience this before?  Any solutions short of ripping the instrument 
cluster out and replacing it?

Alex
From: riggert@mott.seas.ucla.edu (Eric F. Riggert)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Sticking Locks on 89 Nissan Sentra
Summary: Help!
Date: 12 Jan 93 05:39:09 GMT
Organization: SEASnet, University of California, Los Angeles

Well, this is my first post to this group - I've been reading
great advice from all you netters for a while now and finally
realized that *I too* had problems in need of info!

Here goes - both door locks on my Sentra stick.  That is,
when you put the key in, you have to jiggle it back and 
forth a couple of times before you can unlock the @##@%$
door.  It feels as if some (old) grease in there has 
gummed up and is just getting in the way...

I think this was mentioned previously - could someone
repost the previous response(s) or e-mail me...

I think a spray of WD-40 would help, but I want to make
sure that it won't just make things worse before I go ahead
and try it.

Thanks in advance,
--= Eric =--
From: david@trsvax.tandy.com
Date: 08 Jan 93 19:28 CST
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: SUN gas analyzers
Message-ID: <107200005@trsvax>
Nf-ID: #N:trsvax:107200005:000:480
Nf-From: trsvax.tandy.com!david    Jan  8 19:28:00 1993


  I'm interested in hearing if anyone has an opinion/experience with
  the SUN gas analyzer, model # SGA-9000. 
  Failing that, does anybody have experience/opinion with the SUN
  Modular Gas Analyzer, model MGA 1400?
  And finally, the monster, with its ability to run "programs 
  compatible with IBM PC's w/VGA, model # MGA-9000?





     Ya'll be good!                           DISCLAIMER:
				     The computer in my car is faster 
				     than the computer on my desk!



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mellum@skyler.mavd.honeywell.com
Subject: Re: Oxygenated Gasoline and Low MPG (super unleaded?)
Organization: Honeywell Systems & Research Center
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 18:47:02 GMT

In article <1993Jan4.194019.7034@leland.Stanford.EDU>, stankus@leland.Stanford.EDU (John J. Stankus) writes:
> 
>      I missed the first part of this thread, so forgive me if this has
> been discussed.  The oxygenated fuels are supposed to be better for emissions,
> but cause a loss in mileage.  Does the emission improvemnet offset the
> gas mileage decrease?  I guess what I am asking is what is the comparision
> between  emissions/MILE of each of these fuels?  This seems to be more
> pertinent than idle emissions for each.
> 
Not to mention the amount of fuel and other things used by farmers to grow the
extra corn to produce the ethanol. 

Funny story, I have a relative in North Dakota that manages the local coop. The
farmers in the area keep harping on him to push harder to sell more ethanol
blended fuels. So he asks them if they use it in their equipment, of course
their response is that they won't use the stuff!

Ron
mellum@skyler.mavd.honeywell.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jefftb@sr.hp.com (Jeff Brown)
Subject: Re: Purchasing a Toyota 4x4 v6, HELP!
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 21:04:52 GMT
Organization: HP Sonoma County (SRSD/MWTD/MID)
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.9 PL6]


  I have an 82 4x4 so this could be an apples and  oranges comparision. 
  But if it wasn't beaten severly off road (monster truck jumps) it has 
  little on it to go wrong. You might want to look for mud under the skid 
  plates and scratches on them. But mine has been off road often and up to 
  hte doors in water and has140k on it with out much problem. I do need a 
  clutch soon but I have used it to pull out apple trees with that smoked
  it a couple of times, not to mention towing boats that weigh too much.....

  Good Luck
  Jeff ( I wouldn't buy a car from me) Brown
From: bense@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ron Bense)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Oxygenated Gasoline and Low MPG (super unleaded?)
Date: 8 Jan 93 18:50:59 GMT
Reply-To: bense@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ronald Bense)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.autos.tech, jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond) writes:
>bense@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ron Bense) writes:

>Your inside source must be working in the accounting department or something.

Shipping, actually, and to be more specific, the guys that inspect those
tankers that the oafs continue to ground. I imagine that their data
is a little more accurate than yours.

>not being able to put out a fire, I've never heard such fairy tails.

That was one of their concerns.

>If you've ever extinguished an alcohol fire, you've extinguished a
>burning oxygenate.  As to cancer, nothing is in the material
>safety data sheets I have that were current about 6 months ago.

Alcohol requires oxygen to burn. Something like Potassium Perchlorate
decomposes and yields extra oxygen. That's what I would call an oxygenate,
but no one has answered that yet, so I'll wait and see what occurs.

>The stuff is not aimed at your new, closed loop car.  It is aimed
>at older cars, particularly those whose engines were tuned a bit
>rich to work with AIR injection and one way catalysts.

Then just increase emission standards, and make the minimum amount for
spending in one year at least equal to the price of a catalytic converter.
Another good one would be to ban the car off the road if it fails to
meet emmissions 2 years in a row until it does meet them.

>>It is? I've got a fairly well tuned computerized engine that reads the
>>O2 output in the exhaust and adjusts fuel to match. Ran great in the
>>mountains or on the plains. It lost at least 10% of its "fuel" economy
>>when this oxygenated crap came out. (It used to get around 20-25, now
>>it's more like 17-22, and it is a 2.0L 4 cylinder [turbo])

>Fuel economy has nothing to do with performance.  Naturally your mileage
>would go down as your engine's ECU compensates for the leanness.  If you
>ran pure methanol whose stochiometric ratio is 6:1, your mileage
>would go through the floor.

1.) Fuel economy and performance generally go hand in hand, an increase
in one causes a decrease in the other. Both of mine decreased.

2.) I believe the specific energy of methanol is lower than gasoline,
requiring more to be burned for same horsepower, resulting in lower
fuel economy. 

3.) I base the above on the fact that propane powered cars run about
1.8:1 compared to gas in fuel economy, and the knowledge that power
also drops in these vehicles. (Emissions were said to much better, though.
Maybe all older cars should be forced to convert to either modern engine
emissions or propane?)

>As far as public policy goes, oxygenated gas is pretty stupid.  As far
>as hotrodding goes, it's great.  Like having just a touch of nitro on
>tap.

I agree that it's pretty stupid.

Ron
From: plumpe@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Plumpe)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: cleaning solvents
Date: 4 Jan 93 12:05:08 GMT
Reply-To: plumpe@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Plumpe)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.autos.tech, dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) writes:
> I'm now the happy owner of a solvent tank.  My wife picked it up at a
>company auction for $40.  It's made of 1/8 steel plate with a
>counterbalanced lid and even has provision for a 6" vent stack.  It
>apparently was filled with lacquer thinner before we got it.  (phew!)
>It holds approximately 50 gallons. (200 liters)
>
>before I put it into use.  The question is, what do I put in it?  It
>will be primarily used for cleaning cylinder heads and engine blocks.

I believe I read that mineral spirits (generic paint thinner) is commonly
used.  Not as cheap as gasoline, but then I wouldn't want to stand in
front of an open 50 gallon container of gasoline, or lacquer thinner
either :-)   Kerosene might be a possibility - I don't know how its
flammability compares with mineral spirits.

-DaveP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: benj@cbnewsb.cb.att.com (ben.e.jones)
Subject: heater fans chev/toy
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 16:43:39 GMT


Heater fans for a 77 chev and a 80 Toy

Well its been awhile before I had these dam things fixed,but here is the
story.......I changed the fan heater switch in the chev...not hard to do
picked one up for 15.00 at t he dealer....and was feeling good that the job
went so well ....BUT THE FAN STILL DIDN"T WORK....took and cleaned ALL the
connector terminals I could under the hood...still didn't work.....
took it in and they found that the hot wire (black) single connector behind
the dask right where the fan switch is located was burned and shorting out
why I didn't see it ???????well any way they cut off the connectors and hard
wired the leads together and the fan works great.....35.00 for labor.....
 thanks Val,Ken and Bill for the help I just didn't find it on my own
iNow the bad part....thr toy motor was locked up seem water getting down along
the windshied so had to replace the motor for a 123.00 now once the motor was dropped
dropped down u can see the resistor bolck a plug in to the motor housing as it
sits inside the heater duct....replaced the motor and had the fan motor running
on hi but no low/med.....so out with the motor assy and unplug the resistor block

and
and replaced the assy ...Just coiled wire coated used as resister No of turns
thats type..........well that cost me 230.00 to get that all repir with parts/labor
so that the story of heater fans....thanks Tony u were on the money with ur descrip
thanks again all for info
Ben in chicago

         
NOW comes the bad news......
From: bense@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ron Bense)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Oxygenated Gasoline and Low MPG (super unleaded?)
Date: 8 Jan 93 18:55:45 GMT
Reply-To: bense@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ronald Bense)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.autos.tech, jimf@centerline.com (Jim Frost) writes:

>The gas burns more slowly and completely, which I believe will yield
>fewer NOx emmissions and more CO2.

So basically I'm trading 10-15% of my fuel economy to burn gas in my
exhaust system? (Or does it still completely burn inside the cylinder?)

If it burns in the cylinder, then would you improve gas mileage by
running lower rpms?

>One thing that just occurred to me is that by dropping fuel efficiency
>by 10% or more you boost fuel tax revenue by the same amount.  Hmm.

That nasty budget deficit and what they'll do to lower it....
(Not that I think they did this for this reason, but I'd rather pay the
extra ten percent than what's occurring now.)

Ron                          Think about this one (seen on a bumper sticker):
			     The road to hell is bumper-to-bumper
			     Make a U-turn to God.
The irony is priceless.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech