HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: rspeirs@javelin.sim.es.com (Ron Speirs)
Subject: Re: high contast film processing using D-19 developer
Organization: Evans & Sutherland Corp.
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 19:00:42 GMT

In article <180600009@hpcndaw.CND.HP.COM> antonsen@hpcndaw.CND.HP.COM (Tim Antonsen) writes:
>
>Try Kodak's Technical Pan, with almost any standard developer. You'll come
>close to your grey-less ideal. But even then, you'll get *some* greys. The
>only "step-function" materials I know of are for the graphics trade. Things
>like Kodalith. But this is not (to my knowledge) available as roll-film.
>
Kodalith is available in 35mm 100-ft rolls, B&H price $24.95.  They list
single 135-36 rolls at $4.49.  If you want sheet sizes, Freestyle in Los
Angeles has good prices.

Ron Speirs, Evans & Sutherland Computer Corp., Salt Lake City, Utah

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au
Subject: Re: Query: Books on physics of photography (followup)
Organization: Curtin University of Technology
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1992 23:30:59 GMT

In article <1992Dec17.090437.2016@guvax.acc.georgetown.edu>, dtalmage@guvax.acc.georgetown.edu writes:
> In article <1992Dec16.111403.2011@guvax.acc.georgetown.edu>, dtalmage@guvax.acc.georgetown.edu writes:
>> Who can recommend some books on the physics of photography?  They're 
>> for my wife, a chemist w/strong math background.  She's interested in 
>> the way lenses work and why exposures work the way they do (e.g. f/8 @ 
>> 1/100 sec == f/16 @ 1/50 sec).
> 

Sorry, forgot to add one of the clearest IMHO books on optics, 'Telescope
Optics' by Harry Rutten and van Venrooij. Also Reflection Optics. see recent
Sky & Telescope for a review.

~Paul
From: pharris@ucscm.ucsc.edu (Peter Hsrris)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Cibachrome-care & feeding of...
Date: 15 Dec 92 00:03:28 GMT
Organization: University of California, Santa Cruz
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X-XXDate: Mon, 14 Dec 92 01:08:22 GMT

>From: forman@fraser.sfu.ca (Pamela Catherine Forman)

Fingerprints on Cibachromes can often be removed by simply running the
print through the processor again. If you have access to an RC dryer you
can do it yourself by wetting the print in distilled water, squeegie-ing
it dry (CAREFULLY!! THAT WET EMULSION IS SENSITIVE) and putting it
through the dryer. (Make sure your temp is correct.)

Scratches? Can come from a number of sources-- check your prints AT THE
LAB and if they look funny have them remade. This is a standard trade
practice-- the customer doesntt pay until the lab gets it right. Dontt
let your prints slide around on top of each other, and always use cotton
gloves for any extended handling (such as mounting.)

As to dry mounting a Ciba (or any other photograph for that matter,)
therets really no need for it. Once you dry mount a photo you have, for
all intents and purposes, attached it PERMANENTLY to the mounting
material. Why on earth would one ever want to do this? Tell your mounter
to use a cloth hinge or photo corners.

Developing Cibachrome prints at home is not so hard if you know whatts
happening in the darkroom, are scrupulously clean and consistent in your
work habits, and can color correct, but it is a world of difference from
B&W. Since the materials are so expensive, I suggest learning to color
correct under some different system (C-print (from color negatives) is
about the cheapest) before you start weorking in Ciba.

Peter Harris
University of California, Santa Cruz
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: rsl@gasco.com (Robert Lucas x4363)
Subject: Flat field lenses for Pentax
Organization: Northwest Natural Gas Company of Portland Oregon
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 02:56:13 GMT

I have access to a seldom used Pentax K1000 that I would like to set-up for
use as a document/flat page copier.

I have attempted to use the attached standard 50mm f2 lens, but have found
at my typical working distance 1.5 ft - 5 ft that there is far too much
pincushion distortion at the edges of a full frame image (not to mention
image blur at the periphery) even when shooting flat objects at f5.6-f8.

As my work in 35mm is limited, I am unsure if ANY Pentax lens (macro or
not) is sharp and distortion free enough to work in this application.
Also, I am unsure of the quality of any third party lenses for this 
camera mount (K).  

Any advice is greatly appreciated; the nearly $300 that the local dealers
want for the Pentax macro lens makes me think twice about spending that 
much on a relatively old and limited K1000 body........

Robert S. Lucas
Northwest Natural Gas Company
Portland, Oregon
rsl@gasco.com
From: pharris@ucscm.ucsc.edu (Peter Harris)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Bessler 23c non flat negs
Date: 16 Dec 92 21:18:17 GMT
Organization: University of California Santa Cruz
NNTP-Posting-Host: twilight-mac07.ucsc.edu
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X-XXDate: Wed, 16 Dec 92 22:23:15 GMT

In article <BzD275.3A5@hplabs.hpl.hp.com> Jeff
Hintzman, hintzman@hpljah.hpl.hp.com writes:

Use tape, like the pros do. Virtually every
technician in every pro lab Ive worked in (there
have been some biggies, too) has used TAPE at
one time or another to hold a negative flat.
(Some people use it all the time.) Just tape
down the edge of the film on one side ONLY.
Also, make sure your enlarger is IN ALIGNMENT.
So many people forget to check this and then go
through all sorts of convolutions to blame poor
focus on some other link in the system.
Peter Harris
University of California Santa Cruz
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: berger@atropa (Mike Berger)
Subject: Re: "Signature Color" film -- what's the story?
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 16:58:29 GMT

mcovingt@aisun3.ai.uga.edu (Michael Covington) writes:
>With careful processing, it seems to work well.  However, I don't
>think it's due to the superiority of the film.  (Kodak has every
>incentive to sell good film to ordinary people, without going to
>roundabout means such as this.)  Rather, my guess is that it's due to
>the care that is taken with the processing and printing.
*----
Actually, I wouldn't be surprised if the film were superior.  After
all, it's designed for exquisite color and very substantial enlargement.

I've been told that the film requires special handling for processing,
including a well-controlled chemistry phase, and removal of a very
sticky backing from the film.  Most small labs aren't equipped to do
it and the extra cost associated with that kind of processing won't
appeal to the snap-shooters.  It might be worth trying a roll or two
to see if you like the results.
--
	Mike Berger
	Internet    berger@atropa.stat.uiuc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jab@Ingres.COM (jeff bowles)
Subject: Re: Does Minolta X-700 allow shutter priority auto mode
Keywords: Minolta, camera
Organization: Ingres, an ASK Company, Alameda CA 94501
Date: 15 Dec 92 22:46:01 GMT

>In article <fourie.27@odie.ee.wits.ac.za> fourie@odie.ee.wits.ac.za (Andre Fourie) writes:
>>I have purchased a 2nd hand Minolta X-700 camera. The camera seems to 
>>support only aperture priority "A" and program "P" modes as well as a manual 
>>mode. Somebody told me that the camera can be used in shutter priority mode 
>>as well. Since the aperture is controlled by the camera in the program mode 
>>this appears to be feasible. Does anybody have more information on this. I 
>>shall also appreciate any other useful information on this model of camera.

It's a nifty camera, but doesn't have BOTH shutter and aperture priority.
When I had one, I tended to set the aperture and see what shutter setting
it would pick --- if I wanted 1/60 I'd find the aperture that would give
me 1/60, then take the picture.

It's not quite what you're asking for, but still quite adequate.

	Jeff Bowles
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au
Subject: Re: Budget macrophotography options
Organization: Curtin University of Technology
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1992 11:11:05 GMT

In article <TJWU.92Dec5043301@marinara.mit.edu>, tjwu@athena.mit.edu (Thomas J Wu) writes:
...
>             49mm        52mm        55mm        58mm        62mm
> 
> Canon                   240,450                 240,450,500T
>                         (?,?)                   (?,?,?)

No, only the 500T is available in 58mm. The number is the focal length in mm.

~Paul

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: ka1gt@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (robert.m.atkins)
Subject: Re: Dumb Photographers
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 18:22:42 GMT

In article <92349.085025IDMLH@ASUACAD.BITNET>, <IDMLH@ASUACAD.BITNET> writes:
> I had a similar experience this summer at Yellowstone National Park.
> I couldn't believe the amount of people with their instamatics so close
> to the animal that I kept thinking "OH GOD...THEY'RE GOING TO PISS OFF
> THAT ELK AND HE'S GOING TO CHARGE LEAVING SUCH NICE HOLES IN THEIR BODIES."
> Thank Goodness nothing like that happened while I was there.  But if you
> notice situations like that, the REAL photographers are as far away as
> possible (so as not to induce bodily harm) with  TELEPHOTO LENS.

Yes, most animals are amazingly tollerant of stupid humans. In Yellowstone
I was one of the guys standing back with a 500mm (I'm not a real photographer
though, I still have to work for a living :-). I was sort of hoping for a
good "bison gores tourist" shot but luckily (for the tourists) I never got
one. Several years ago in Yellowstone I did see a guy up to his armpits in
mud. It seems he had been trying to get a P&S shot of a bear (which had left
by the time I got there of course) and hadn't been watching where he was going
when he stepped off a stream bank. Chalk up one for the bears!

===============================================================
Bob Atkins  AT&T Bell Labs  email (direct)  att!clockwise!rma
===============================================================
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: prodger@leland.Stanford.EDU (phillip prodger)
Subject: Re: grain
Keywords: need a lot of grains
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 92 00:23:32 GMT

In article <Bz2nxH.Gyx@watserv1.uwaterloo.ca> tjdoran@watserv1.uwaterloo.ca (DORAN TJ - BIOLOGY) writes:
>In article <Bz24M1.7C0@javelin.sim.es.com> rspeirs@javelin.sim.es.com (Ron Speirs) writes:
>>In article <1g647mINN78m@crcnis1.unl.edu> kting@cse.unl.edu (Kea Ting) writes

>>There is another effect which you may find interesting:  Reticulation.
>>This happens when a film (usually B&W) is developed at a temperature which
>>is too high.  The film emulsion softens, and then develops a crack pattern
>>(like a dry lake bed) when it is cooled.  Usually, photographers try to
>>avoid this, but it can be interesting if you want it.  By accident, I
>>got reticulation on a roll of Tech Pan.  I wanted to see how it would do
>>in C-41 developer and forgot that it wasn't intended to be processed at
>>100F!  The emulsion became soft as Jello and when it dried it had a wierd
>>surface texture.  Here's what I did:
>>     C-41 Developer at 100F      3.5 minutes
>>     Stop Bath          "         30 seconds
>>     Wash               "         30 seconds
>>     NO BLEACH (If you bleach it, the image will be gone)    
>>     Fixer             100F      (normal Fixer time)
>>     Wash      (somewhat cooler)  4 x 1 minute
>>     Dry
>>Different combinations of hot and cold will produce different effects.
>>Some people develop in hot developer, then dunk in ice water.  
>>You're really on your own to do a lot of experimenting.  Don't hesitate
>>to try different things.
>>
>>Ron Speirs, Evans & Sutherland Computer Corp., Salt Lake City, Utah

>Isn't the developer *much* more effective at these temperatures? Did you just
>work by trial and error or is there a ratio or formula you used to calculate
>effective developing times at high temperatures? (I have no experience with C-41developing outside of commercial labs; I'm assuming that 3 1/2 minutes is a 
>shorter-than normal developing time).

The developer will be more effective at these temperatures.  One way of getting
around this is to develop normally for 90% of normal, then transfer to a hot
bath before fixing.
From: michael9@nadine.cs.mun.ca (Michael Sullivan)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Minolta X-9/X-700
Keywords: Decisions, decisions....
Date: 19 Dec 92 16:22:42 GMT
Organization: CS Dept., Memorial University of Newfoundland


  Last week I was asking about the Minolta 3xi and the Canon Rebel.  Well,
popular opinion seems to be that they are the bottom end of the auto focus
cameras.

    I have now decided not to go with an auto-focus.  However, I also do not
want to get the K1000, as it seems to be very limited in it's features (no
DOF preview, no self timer, no microprism screen).

  So, I've been looking at the Minolta X-9.  (I briefly consider the X-700
but having a fully programmed mode isn't worth an extra $80 to me)  One thing
that concerns me is the apparent (All I could look at was the handout, it
would have to be ordered for me) lack of a light meter needle.  Is this a 
problem?  It does give the suggested f-stop/shutter speed, which you are
free to choose or ignore, but I'm used to having a needle.  How will the camera
handle extreme situations?   Perhaps I am just being resitant to change? :-)

  The price the camera shop quoted me for the X-9 was $279 CDN for the body.
Good? Bad?

  Anyway, if  anyone has opinions on the X-700/X-9 please let me know!


  Also, someone a few messages back quoted the price on the P-30T as being
$120-$140 US.  I was told $382 CDN, just for the body!  Is my camera shop
asking way too much?  Would I be better off with mail order?

Thanks in advance,

-- 
|uunet!garfield!michael9|'"Proof denies faith and without faith I am nothing,"|
|michael9@odie.cs.mun.ca| says God.  "But you have given us proof," says      |
|POB 756,St.John's,Nfld.| man, "Therefore you do not exist. QED." "Oh, my,"   |
|A1S 1G8                | says God, and disappears in a puff of logic.'       |
From: finn@isi.edu (Greg Finn)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: N90 + Tamron 90/2.5 = kaput!
Date: 17 Dec 92 22:24:13 GMT
Reply-To: finn@dalek.isi.edu (Greg Finn)
Organization: USC-Information Sciences Institute

In article <4fA=YQS00Uh_02iplc@andrew.cmu.edu> lc0v+@andrew.cmu.edu (Luis Abdon Cifuentes) writes:
>Monday I was in a store that had a 'Nikon special' with a Nikon
>representative and all the stuff.  After I while, I asked to try the
>Tamron AF 90/2.5 macro lens in the N90. They guy reluctantly put it on
>the N90, and guess what, the N90 died!. No lcd display,  nothing.

>The same lens in a N8008s worked fine.  Another Tamron lens, the
>35-105/2.8 worked fine in both cameras.

	This is a general problem with software and electronic
compatability.  Nikon knows what Nikon designed.  Tamron, Vivitar, and
Sigma do not know that as precisely.  They attempt to be compatible.

	This problem with other lenses has shown up on an F4 too.  It
tells me that the secondary market lenses are not completely
compatible.  Mechanical compatibility was pretty easy to check and
design into a lens.  That was the good old days.  Things are much more
complicated now.  You must also be electrically and software
compatible.

--
Gregory Finn	(310) 822-1511
Information Sciences Institute, Marina Del Rey, CA 90292
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au
Subject: Re: Hasselblad Film Flatness
Organization: Curtin University of Technology
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1992 11:15:04 GMT

In article <334@metran.UUCP>, jay@metran.UUCP (Jay Ts) writes:
...
> BTW, I don't know if this matters, but I do not consider tacks to be
> very sharp.  Needles, yes.  Scalpels, yes.  Razor blades, yes.  Tacks?
> 
> Where did this phrase "tack sharp" come from, anyway?
> 

Get a packet of cut tacks, put em in your pocket and tell us if you still don't
know!!

~Paul

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: gderti@dtc.kodak.com (Gzim Derti)
Subject: Looking for 85mm Maxxum AF Lens
Originator: gderti@derti
Organization: Digital Technology Center
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 92 12:01:20 GMT


OK so I goofed the Maxxum lens that I'm looking for is the standard one
the 85mm/f1.4 lens how I doubled 1.4 and posted 2.8 I'll never know.
Any one with one to sell please let me know.  I'd like to start taking
better portrait shots and have a very good lens for some indoor work.

Thanks.
Gzim Derti
(say Zim Dair-tee)
(ain't parents grand???)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: sylve_ge@jhunix.hcf.jhu.edu (Gerald Sylvester)
Subject: Re: N800*s, FM2 or EOS RT : advice needed
Organization: HAC - Johns Hopkins University, Baltimore
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 09:12:11 GMT


>Also note that the 8008s cannot AF with Nikon's bigger AF lenses, like
>the 300/2.8 AF-I and the 600/4 AF-I, whereas the 630/RT work with all of
>Canon's EF-mount lenses (which now go to 1200/5.6!!!)

Quick correction, the 8008s CAN AF with the 300/2.8 AF-I (and I would
guess it would with the 600/4 AF-I).  I have used the 8008s with a
300/2.8 AF-I before.

Gerald Sylvester

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: mcovingt@aisun3.ai.uga.edu (Michael Covington)
Subject: Re: Focus adjustment (was Minolta or Canon?)
Keywords: Which one?
Organization: AI Programs, University of Georgia, Athens
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 05:36:11 GMT

You only have to adjust the focusing screen and mirror (in the camera) for
one distance.  If it's accurate at any distance it will be accurate at all
of them.  Use whatever lens has the least depth of field.  The infinity
mark on your 50-mm lens would be a good calibration standard, since it is
likely to be quite accurate.  Set the 50-mm lens at infinity, and adjust the
focusing screen/mirror/whatever so you see an in-focus image of distant
objects (over 500 feet away).  

-- 
:-  Michael A. Covington     internet mcovingt@uga.cc.uga.edu :   Verbum caro
:-  Artificial Intelligence Programs       phone 706 542-0358 :    factum est
:-  The University of Georgia                fax 706 542-0349 :  et habitavit
:-  Athens, Georgia 30602-7415 U.S.A.     amateur radio N4TMI :   in nobis...
From: jay@metran.UUCP (Jay Ts)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Hasselblad Film Flatness
Date: 11 Dec 92 23:56:54 GMT
Organization: Metran Technology, Tampa, Florida


Today I was talking with a local professional photographer who has many
years of experience.  He was using Hasselblad cameras, but switched to
Pentax 6x7.  I was curious why, and asked him if he had compared the
sharpness of the Pentax and Zeiss lenses.  He told me that the images he
got on film with his Pentax were much sharper, and that the Hasselblad
was "no match" for it.

He cited two reasons for this.  First, the 6x7 format requires less cropping,
and therefore less enlargement, than the 6x6 format.  But he seemed to feel
that a much greater factor was in the cameras' pressure plates, because
120 roll film, by itself, just isn't very flat.  If the film isn't flat
during exposure, then the quality of the lenses is less of an issue.

I was wondering if anyone on the net would care to comment on this.  If
true, it would explain a lot to me.  When I see magazine photos that
were taken with Hasselblads, they always seem to have a somewhat soft
appearance, and the sharpness doesn't seem to measure up to the images
made with certain other medium format equipment, notably Mamiya.

... And notice how Zeiss was key to bringing back the Contax camera, and
how Contax (with the RTS) came out with a nifty vacuum system to suck the
film flat during exposure!  Is there something to this, or is it just my
(typically) overactive imagination?

Maybe Contax will have a 6x7 camera on the market soon???

- Jay Ts
-- 
Jay Ts
uucp mail: uunet!myrddin!tscs!metran!jay
phone: (813) 979-9169
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: philo@athena.mit.edu (philo)
Subject: FAQ on best/cheapest dealers?
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1992 18:46:03 GMT

Hi,

I am new to this newsgroup, and I was wondering if there is a FAQ list about the
best dealers to get stuff from. I am looking for a 8008S and/or possibly a
Horseman or a Sinar 4x5.

thanks for your help,
philo.
-- 
.....................
dakhlak.... hawn nazl s suruur?
				(Ziad)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: mcovingt@aisun3.ai.uga.edu (Michael Covington)
Subject: Re: grain
Organization: AI Programs, University of Georgia, Athens
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1992 02:30:18 GMT

In article <1992Dec13.043828.1@cc.curtin.edu.au> zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au writes:
>In article <1g647mINN78m@crcnis1.unl.edu>, kting@cse.unl.edu (Kea Ting) writes:
>> Hi,
>>     I am trying to get some ideas of how to get a lot of grains on my
>> picture or slide (for special mood). Any idea on how to get a lot
>> of grains on b&w , color and slide film is welcome.
>>    Thanks.
>> 
>
>Ah, an easy one!! Kodak Recording 2475. Double the grain, or your money back.

My understanding is that that film was discontinued in the USA something
like five years ago.  Apparently it's still clinging to life in England
and Australia...



-- 
:-  Michael A. Covington     internet mcovingt@uga.cc.uga.edu :   Verbum caro
:-  Artificial Intelligence Programs       phone 706 542-0358 :    factum est
:-  The University of Georgia                fax 706 542-0349 :  et habitavit
:-  Athens, Georgia 30602-7415 U.S.A.     amateur radio N4TMI :   in nobis...
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: robert@sys.sweden.dg.com (Robert Claeson)
Subject: Canon TS-E lenses
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 18:01:12 GMT
Organization: Data General AB, Akalla, Sweden

Are anyone using Canon's TS-E lenses (tilt & shift-able lenses for the
EOS series)? How are they?

-- 
--------------------- This mass of gibberish came from ---------------------
         ____
        |    |               Robert Claeson
        |    |               Data General AB
 _______|____|_              Box 28
|    |    _    |_____        S-164 93 KISTA
|_/\ |   / \   |     |       Sweden
| \/ |   \_/   |   . |
|    |    |    |_____|       robert@sys.sweden.dg.com
|____|_________|-
Newsgroups: rec.photo,misc.forsale,ga.forsale
From: ychen@hubcap.clemson.edu (Eric Chen)
Subject: For Sale: Canon AE-1 Bk w/ 35-105 Macro FD - Mint & cheap 
Organization: Clemson University, Clemson SC
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 00:55:03 GMT

Canon AE-1 Program body, black, with multi-exposure mode, flash
coulper.

Canon 35-105 FD macro f:3.5-4.5 (72mm filter), not EF

polar filter 72mm for above lens
UV filter 72mm for above lens

mint condition

will give you one week warranty to let you test the camera.

$380 firm

Please do not confuse this camera with chrome body or non-program body,
please do not confuse this lens with other cheap Canon EF or non macro
lens.

For more information or price list in the market please refer to the
Shutterbug or Popular Photography magazines.

Example: Shutterbug Dec. p.120 AE-1 bk w/50mm f1.4 .... $289
	 Shutterbug Dec. p. 120 35-105 FD Canon ........$219

The lens is sell for $390 new.

This is firm offer, you need to pay for the shipping. Because its mint 
condition, very good for Christmas gift.

Eric
(803)6548817
ychen@clemson.hubcap.edu
From: colson@tc.fluke.COM (Gary Colson)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Lieca CL value
Keywords: Lieca CL
Date: 12 Dec 92 00:10:56 GMT
Article-I.D.: tc.1992Dec12.001056.5475
Distribution: usa
Organization: John Fluke Mfg. Co., Inc., Everett, WA

I have a Lieca CL....body with the 40 & 90 mm lenses and owners manual.  I've
decided to sell this equipment and would like some opinions on what it might
be worth.  The body needs $300 repair (rangefinder went out).  Everything works
except being able to focus.  I would think the lenses would be worth something??

Thanks for any input.