HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: burleson@vf.jsc.nasa.gov
Subject: Oil pump prob. w/ 300Z
Organization: NASA Johnson Space Flight Center
Date: 22 Jan 93 14:54:17 -0600

I have a 85 Nissan 300ZX and am experiencing a problem that I believe is 
related to the oil pump.  After the engine has reached its normal operating
temperature at idle RPMs (1100) the oil pressure drops from its normal 45
to about 25 lbs/sq.in.  When the RPMs are around 2000 or greater the oil 
pressure is in its normally acceptable range.  Are these the symptoms of an
oil pump that needs to be replaced?  

Thanks in advance for any info.

Terry Burleson -- burleson@vf.jsc.nasa.gov
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: WHAT IS AN A-I-R PUMP ON A CHEVY CAPRICE ENGINE?
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 14:32:22 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 Taking out the air pump will leave the catconv without any air to react 
with the HC/CO in the exhaust. Your tailpipe may have an illegal aroma
and there's a small chance of fouling the cat more quickly if the mixture 
is way off. There's a simple solution, of course.

 Leaving an air pump connected but undriven may let exhaust gases flow in
the reverse direction - there's no air flow to stop them. This might cause
damage or crud to collect there.

 Removing the air pump entirely leaves an exhaust gas path (from the exhaust
manifold(s) octopus to the air pump outlet) to the engine compartment. The
opening would have to be plugged tightly and nonflammably, or the entire
octopus removed and plugs installed in its place, or the octopus broken
off and the tube ends crimped and maybe brazed. Plugs are best, and the 
air pump system can be saved in its entirety in case your locale goes
ecophrenic.

-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
From: serafin@epcot.spdc.ti.com (Mike Serafin)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Jeep stuck, frozen puddle, how to free up?
Date: 27 Jan 93 05:33:38 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: TI Semiconductor Process and Design Center

In article <1993Jan26.192303.2396@macc.wisc.edu> pburke@vms.macc.wisc.edu (Peter Burke, MIC, 608-263-7744) writes:
>My friend got himself stuck in a pretty deep puddle two days ago. In the 
>meantime the puddle has turned to solid ice.  Teh front of the vehicle 
>is about 15" under water/ice, the rear - well - his 31" tires barely 
>stick out of the ice.  The ice is only 1/2" thick, but still enough to 
>keep the thing in there.  Yesterday we pulled only very lightly and tore 
>his bumper off - oops.  Now: what is a smarter approach?  We are 
>thinking of first using a sledgehammer to crush the ice, then pull with 
>two trucks.  Is there a smarter approach?  There is no way to get a 
>tow-truck near this, by the way.  almost got my Toyota stuck just going 
>there....
>
>Any seasoned four-wheelers out there?


What type of seasoning would you like?  

Don't have any real good advice, other than to take lots of pictures and send
them in to the various 4 wheeling type mags, so they get include in their back
page caption contests.  I gotta see this.


******************************************************************************
Mike Serafin             serafin@epcot.spdc.ti.com       Texas Instruments
DoD #0742  AMA #671922  HOG #0565502                            Dallas, Texas
1967 Firebird 326              1982 Honda CM250C
1969 Barracuda Formula 340S    1993 H-D FLHS 
1988 Ford F250 4x4             1964 Cessna 310I
1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee
******************************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ajb8886@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Subject: Re: Ford Tempo Hesitates/Stalls
Reply-To: ajb8886@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Distribution: usa
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1993 16:39:22 GMT

In article <1jpf8hINNmqe@early-bird.think.com>, shaig@Think.COM (Shai Guday) writes:
>In article <1993Jan22.030956.22874@tandem.com>, norcott_bill@tandem.com (Bill Norcott) writes:
>|> 
>|> You should not have to recreate it for them, if it happened recently
>|> the trouble code for the problem is stored in the cars computer.
>|> Ask them to run the engine diagnostic and tell you what codes the
>|> computer spit out.  I am surprised they did not do this immediately.
>|> It could well be that the idle speed control system is screwing up,
>|> this happened on my '87 before.  Make sure they take a specific action
>|> and record the results, such as "Engine computer diagnostic run,
>|> revealed codes: XXX".  Don't let them refuse to take the car into the
>|> shop and run the diagnostics.  Also, don't let them get by with just
>|> adjusting crap, tell them to start swapping out components until they
>|> find the problem if that's what it takes them.
>
>While I agree with what you suggested, I have learned from my own
>experience that their diagnostics leave something to be desired.
>My car was fluctuating in RPMs from ~600 to ~1500 and occasionally
>stalling.  They ran diags on it twice and no codes came up even though
>the needle was fluctuating in a smaller range (range decreased when it
>sat in idle for a while).  Even though the chief mechanic took a road test
>with me and saw it flux, he couldn't tell me what was wrong.
>They cleaned the sensor off-carb, and it helped but did not go away.
>I finally took apart the thorttle body, cleaned it thoroughly,
>tightened all the air hose fittings, and reset my computer.
>It is now down to a reasonable flux of ~250 RPM at idle.

I had the same problem with my '89 Escort GT.  Cleaning the throttle body 
helped a bit, but replacing the O2 sensor ($40) solved my problem for good.  
It's interesting to note I had a >SEVERE< hesitation problem previously too, 
that's been gone ever since (I did this about 5 months ago).

The engine now idles perfectly flat instead of oscillating between 800 and
1500.  People have even asked me if I had a six, the engine has been idling
THAT smoothly. 

It's been running really well ever since.

Alex





>
>Moral of the story:  don't depend on the diags, as the FORD mechs
>seem to come back with a standard reply: no codes = no problem.
>

No argument :)

>
>-- 
>Shai Guday              | Stealth bombers,
>OS Software Engineer    |
>Thinking Machines Corp. |	the winged ninjas of the skies.
>Cambridge, MA           |
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ravalent@mothra.syr.EDU (Bob Valentine)
Subject: Re: TH350 vs. TH400
Organization: Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 93 19:37:46 EST

In article <Jan.22.12.43.11.1993.25844@trident.usacs.rutgers.edu> jcborkow@trident.usacs.rutgers.edu (Jason Borkowsky) writes:
>
>     I recently got hold of a cheap, high mileage, blown head
>'69 Chevelle (350 engine, TH350 trans) to re-build 'for fun'. Since
>I had the time and a bit of money, I figured I'd do it right and
>make it into a higher performance car. I re-built the engine,
>increased the compression to 11:1, performance cam, etc. 

  Sounds Nice!

> Also, most torque converters are
>also made specifically for the TH350, with just a few (with adapter
>kits) for the TH400. 

     Unless you're talking about the 60's "switch-pitch" converter
TH400, the TH350 and TH400 converters are the same.   I've yet to see
a instance where they are different.  If they are, I'd love to know...

>                                                 Jason
                      -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                  --> ravalent@mailbox.syr.edu <--
From: stansbury-travis@yale.edu (Travis Stansbury)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: GOODYEAR EAGLE GT'S/The Tire Rack -- HELP!
Date: 22 Jan 1993 23:59:24 -0500
Organization: Yale University
Distribution: na
NNTP-Posting-Host: minerva.cis.yale.edu

I'm in desperate need of help.  I know next to nothing about tires (they
are rubber, right?).  However, I need new ones for my '86 CRX Si, and I
want neither crappy tires nor tremendous expense.  SOOOO... I noticed
that a mail order place called "The Tire Rack" (South Bend, IN) had a
special on Goodyear Eagle GT's in the right size for my car.... $66
(incl shipping).  So, is this a reputable company?  Are these good tires
(they are HR.)?  Could I do better for the money?  The salesman told me
they are an all-weather tire - does this mean I'm sacrificing anything
performance-wise?  Sorry for all the questions, but this is a major
purchase that I'm going to make within a day or two, and I don't want to
regret making it.  Thanks!
-- 
   ______________________________________________________
   | Travis Stansbury, Yale '94  || 2358 Yale Station   |
   | travis@minerva.cis.yale.edu || New Haven, CT 06520 |
   ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sharen@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com (Sharen A. Rund)
Subject: Re: Jeep stuck, frozen puddle, how to free up?
Organization: Lockheed Missiles and Space Co.
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 93 21:37:33 GMT

In article <1993Jan26.192303.2396@macc.wisc.edu> pburke@vms.macc.wisc.edu (Peter Burke, MIC, 608-263-7744) writes:
>My friend got himself stuck in a pretty deep puddle two days ago. In the 
>meantime the puddle has turned to solid ice.  Teh front of the vehicle 
>is about 15" under water/ice, the rear - well - his 31" tires barely 
>stick out of the ice.  The ice is only 1/2" thick, but still enough to 
>keep the thing in there.  Yesterday we pulled only very lightly and tore 
>his bumper off - oops.  Now: what is a smarter approach?  We are 
>thinking of first using a sledgehammer to crush the ice, then pull with 
>two trucks.  Is there a smarter approach?  There is no way to get a 
>tow-truck near this, by the way.  almost got my Toyota stuck just going 
>there....
>
>Any seasoned four-wheelers out there?
>

I'm not going to ask what he was doing or how he got stuck, but:

yes, try using the sledghammer on the ice to break it up

then, using some floor jacks (on large pieces of wood so they don't
slip) jack the jeep up

then, slip boards over the ditches (under at least 2 wheels)

then, with someone who knows how to drive in ice, etc at the wheel
 start the jeep, lower it gently and try to drive out using the boards

BTW - this reminds me of people who see water running across a road and
      figure they have 4wd & can make it across - last person I heard of
      doing that ended up with water 1" from the top of his roofline

      go figure.....B-)

-- 
________________       __        ________________   "They that can give up
\_________      \     /_ \      /      _________/  essential liberty to 
 \_________      \_____/  \____/      _________/  obtain temporary safety
  \___________________      __________________/  deserve neither liberty 
                     /______\                   nor safety."  
ALL disclaimers apply ....                           --Benjamin Franklin
	  
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hlin@cbnewsi.cb.att.com (hua.t.lin)
Subject: Re: Replacing the Timing Belts after 60K miles??
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 17:33:37 GMT

> 	A friend hof mine has a Plymouth RS/Turbo (The same type of car as  
> Eagle Talon Tsi and Mitsbishi Eclipse). He drove the car so hard that it  
> reached its 60K line within 2.5 years. He was wondering whether he should  
> go ahead and replace the timing belt as recommended in the operation  
> manual, or wait as long as possible ?. He was so reluctant to do so  
> because  the dealer warned him to prepare for a two days job to get that  
> done. Consider the $54/hr cost of labor, that's going to be a Big charge.

Don't know about Plymouth RS/Turbo. A month ago I checked the timing belt
of my Mazda 626. It's of 1988 and has 90,000 miles. I bought a timing belt
with the intention of changing it. But when I finally got a look at it, I
didn't think it needed to be changed. As it turns out my power steering and
alternator belts needed to be changed. So the effort was not all wasted.
To get to the belt I had to remove the power steering and alternator belts,
a dual pulley bolted on the crank shaft, and then remove the covers for the
timing belt (one covering the part of the belt that goes over the cam pulley,
the other the crank shaft pulley).
With this exprience, I discover that I could have actually got a look at the
belt without having to do that much working. I could have just removed the top
cover of the timing belt and take a look at it (if you like you can rotate
the crank shaft pulley with a socket wrench so that different parts of the
belt will come to the top where you have removed the cover. But be sure to
remove the main connection to the distributer).

- Lin
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ravalent@mothra.syr.EDU (Bob Valentine)
Subject: Re: TH350 vs. TH400
Organization: Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 93 19:45:17 EST

In article <1993Jan22.182215.26537@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Steven J Orlin) writes:
>
>I've also heard of this TH700 as a late model transmission, or a newer
                         ^^^^^ - TH700-4R
>one; whatever you want to call it.
>
>Does anyone out there know anything about it?
>I'm interested as to how it compares with the 350 & 400.
>I imagine more 'heavy-duty' or 'performance oriented' for those who don't
>like 'heavy-duty'.

   Actually, it's 4 speed OD, lockup trans.  It mounts on (if I
recall) TH-350 mounts, but the driveshaft is a little shorter than
it's TH350/400 counterparts.   Same tranny that is used in the 'Vette.
   It's got a lower first gear than the TH-350/400, but heavy duty
parts are reccomended for hi-po operations. It can be built to take 
power just fine, tho.  
   The 200-4R is it's cousin, and it's basically a TH-200 with OD added.
Needless to say, it's not very strong, but it does hold up behind
several 12 second Buick GN's I know.  

>
> steve
>-- 
>"If you love someone, set them free......If they don't come back....hunt them
> down and kill them."
>-=sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu                 -???

                      -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                  --> ravalent@mailbox.syr.edu <--  


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: lerner@cs.columbia.edu (Michah Lerner)
Subject: Removable Radios Compatible with Dashboard Volume Control?
Organization: Columbia University Department of Computer Science
Distribution: rec.autos.tech
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 17:48:21 GMT

I just replaced my 1991 Sable with a 1993 Sable (the 1991 was flooded out on
the FDR Drive during the December 11 storm, and only boats are salt-resistant).
The '93 has this "neat" volume flipper on the dashboard, so I don't have to
take my hand from the wheel.  But there are lots of crooks who want to take my
radio, and they don't care about breaking the glass and the dash to get it.

Can the standard FORD AM/FM/Cassette (not the JBL premimum sound) be made
removable without protruding over the change and cup holders?  Installers say
it will protrude about 1.5".

Is there is a removable after-marker radio which doesn't protrude and can be
wired to work with those buttons?  Installers tell me they have to cut the
flipper circuit to do this.  They also say the panel illumination on the
removables will not dim according to the dashboard illumination ...  this
feature is nice for night driving.

Michah Lerner
compsci: 1-212 939 7068 (unless in the lab)
pager:   1-917 372 0102 (has voicemail)

ps: what is a Freewheeling engine, and why does anyone care?
--
Michah Lerner
home:    1-718 253 7182
compsci: 1-212 939 7068 (unless in the lab)
pager:   1-917 372 0102 (has voicemail)


Posted-Date: Wed, 27 Jan 93 07:32:09 -0600
Received-Date: Wed, 27 Jan 93 07:32:52 CST
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 93 07:32:09 -0600
From: Matt Rein #3 <mrein3@cfsmo.honeywell.com>
To: rec.autos.tech
Subject: CRX Lost MPG oxy gas
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Organization: mailEnteringNews at Honeywell SRC

> 
> In rec.autos.tech, mrein3@cfsmo.honeywell.com (Matt Rein #3) writes:
> 
> >Don't worry, it is winter time and your MPG should show it.  My friend
> 
> This is a fallacy. I've never noticed a drop in winter MPG, and my recent
> road test shows that there is none. (Matter of fact, I got the best
> mileage I've ever gotten:)
>

You never drove a car in Minnesota for an extended period of time have you?
If this is a fallacy, why does my '71 Monte drop from 18 MPG to 12 MPG?
Every winter.  Warmup time = 0, every time.
84 Tempo 30 MPG to 22 MPG, warmup time same, I don't warm them up!!!
Now you may try to blame them both on the gas, but the Monte has been
pulling this low MPG crap during the winter for the 5 years I've owned it.
Only this winter it is worse with the bad gas.  (this winter is the first
one where the Twin Cities required oxngenated gas).
 
> >his MPG fell off last winter.  You are lucky, his drops off 10-15 MPG
> >this time of year.  (He warms up his car quite a bit)
> 
> Perhaps the true reason is this unnecessary warming up?
> 

If you think warming up a car is unnecessary, you obviously never drove
a cold car when it was -40 F without the windchill.  Add the wind blowing
through a rusted out MN car at 55 MPH and you got one cold ride!!!

> Note: warming up your car should only take about 20s, whether it is
> 100 or -40 (In the -40 case you might want to plug in a block warmer
> so that the oil isn't too thick). Then the first few miles should be
> driven gently, to allow the *entire* drivetrain to warm up. (When you
> let the engine get hot, the rest of the drivetrain generally remains
> cold.)
> 

-40 degrees F and your car is no where near warm in 20 seconds!  Try it
sometime.  Most cars left outside won't even start at -40 below, plugged
in or not (except the Monte ;-) ).
The coldest start for the Monte:  -41 F, The car never did warm up for the
13 miles I drove that day.
-40 degrees F and things break.  You ever try to move a stick shift
at that temp?  It doesn't.

> >Wait for March or April, that will cure it.
> 
> Actually, just wait until March 1, as there will be no more oxygenated
> gas sold for a while. Takes about two-three tanks to clear the garbage
> out of your tank. (in my case, anyway)
> 

The pump I used last night said January 31 is the last day for the bad gas.
I heard ADM was behind this corn-gas deal.  They supply 80% of the ethanol
used in making gas.
  
> Ron
> 

No flames please, I am just stating FACTS, not theory.

--
- Matt Rein
- mrein3@cfsmo.honeywell.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: csmith@plains.NoDak.edu (Carl Smith)
Subject: Re: Fan belt falls off
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 03:55:36 GMT
Organization: North Dakota Higher Education Computing Network

In article <1993Jan21.161607.16836@njitgw.njit.edu> dmu5391@hertz.njit.edu (David M. Utidjian Esc stnt) writes:
>In article <93Jan19.114356pst.11900@alpha.xerox.com> Michel_Denber.WBST147@xerox.com writes:
>>While we're at it, the serpentine belt on my 2.8L V-6 has started to show lots
>>of little cracks between the grooves on the inside of the belt.  This is the
>>first car I've had with one of these.  The outer surface looks fine - no
>>fraying, glazing, or softening.  Does anyone have a number for how long
>>serpentine belts typically last?  I've got 52K miles on this one.
>>
>	Typical replacement intervals are 30,40,50,60K miles....
>Many service manuals recommend replacement as soon as there is noticeable
>deterioration of the belt.  Small cracks on the innner groove surface of
>the belt is noticeable deterioration... so replace it.
>

My mom's 87 LTD Crown Vic has two serpentine belts.  One has an idler
that bends the belt bacwards (the outside of the belt runs against the
pulley surface).  The other has no idler and does not bend backwards
at any time.  The car has almost 60K miles on it and the belt that
bends backwards has been replaced twice, and it gets cracks all over
the inside almost immediately.  The other belt that does not bend 
backwards is the original with 60K on it, and there is NO cracking
on the inside surface.

I think that serpentine belts were a good idea, and would last longer
than normal v belts, due to the fact that they are thinner, so there
is less streatching of the belt surfaces as the belt passes over the
pulleys.  But then some fool decided to put in an idler pulley that
bends the belt backwards and causes it do crack up at 20K.  Why?
Maybe to sell more belts...  :)

-- 
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Carl D. Smith                                       Inhale to the chief!
csmith@plains.nodak.edu
From: Steve.Kaess@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Steve Kaess)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Ford Tempo Hesitates/Stalls
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1993 02:06:27 -0500

 >
 >
 > I bought a 1991 Ford Tempo GL brand new and back in November
 > it started to intermittantly hesistate when warm at stop
 > lights
 > or stops signs.  It is always on acceleration that this
 > occurs.
 > It has also stalled three times since December 3.
 
massive tale of woe and poor dealer serevice department allong with 
fords1-800 number blowing him off deleated.
 
 
Look in the phone book government section under consumer protection. 
 You will be amazed how soon things start to happen.  Also look in  
your owners manuael.  Get the address for the zone office for ford. 
 Send them a letter just like what ya wrote here.  I bet you don't  
have to contact consumer protection, but if you are totaly pissed 
off consumer protection should work just fine.
From: dje@mail.bellcore.com (Don Eilenberger)
Subject: Re: When waxing car, paint comes off.
Reply-To: dje@mail.bellcore.com (Don Eilenberger)
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 93 19:49:47 GMT

In article <1993Jan27.191913.2379@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com>, sharen@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com (Sharen A. Rund) writes:
|> In article <1k6d0pINNmdb@elroy.jpl.nasa.gov> ktong@shannon.jpl.nasa.gov (Kevin Tong) writes:
|> >
|> >I have a red 87 Honda Prelude.  
|> >
|> >Now, when I apply wax with a white wax applicator, the
|> >applicator has a light red color, indicating paint coming
|> >off.  The paint still seems like its in good condition,
|> >but is not "glass" smooth.  BTW I was applying Finish 2001 wax.
|> >
|> >What is wrong with the paint?  
|> 
|> nothing - you're taking off oxidization
|> 
|> >Is this normal? 
|> 
|> yes
|> 
|> >If not, what can I do to prevent further deterioration.
|> 
|> keep using the wax and possibly a good rubbing compound in between - both
|> will help keep down the oxidization and keep your paint looking better &
|> newer for longer

NO! NO! NO! NO! - not "rubbing" compound, use "Polishing" compound, and
use it only when needed. Rubbing compound is a heavy cutting compound
made for rubbing out really BAD things like orange peal after a paint
job. Use it more than a few times and you'll be rubbing and waxing
bare metal (known more than one case of this). Polishing compound is
much finer.. removes much LESS paint, and is usually white in color.

With some reasonable care, you shouldn't need either.. most waxes,
unless they specifically say so, come with some amount of polishing
compound in them, more than enough to remove oxidation. If you KEEP
your car waxed (every month or so) - you should use a wax without
the abrasives.. there isn't any need for it. The fact that he is
seeing red on the applicator means that he's using a wax with
an abrasive.. and this should be adaquate for the job..

Don Eilenberger (dje@mail.bellcore.com)

PS: I am somewhat of a fanatic on waxes.. I must have 30 of them
in my garage. I have yet to find one that holds up as well as
plain old (hard to find) hard Simonize.. it's a pain to put on,
but done right the results are excellent, and it will last a long
time.. the old quote was "Motorist's wise use Simonize!"

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech