HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: billr@falcon.ims.com (Bill Rea)
Subject: Re: Ceiling Fan Recommendations Wanted
Reply-To: billr@falcon.ims.com
Organization: Integrated Measurement Systems
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 01:18:57 GMT

I understand that Hunter fans are VERY good.  Quiet, low-vibration,
and durable.


---
-------------------------------------------------------------
 Bill Rea               Integrated Measurement Systems Inc.
 billr@ims.com          Beaverton,  Oregon
-------------------------------------------------------------

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (patterson,george r)
Subject: Re: OK to pound nails into concrete blocks?
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 92 15:54:53 GMT

In article <13805@texsun.Central.Sun.COM> dbernard@clesun.Central.Sun.COM writes:
>I have cement blocks for my basement wall, and would like to hang things
>from the wall.  Is there a certain kind of nail that can be used on walls
>like this?  Is it better to pound nails into the joints- where the mortar is-
>or into the blocks themselves?   If nails are not recommened, is there some
>kind of bolt that can be used>

There are concrete nails available which I have found work well for this.
They look like short, fat nails with spiral grooves in the shaft. I've
driven these into the block and avoided the joints. I've always been afraid
that I'll break one of the blocks using nails, though. These days I use the
plastic screw anchors that are sold for use in sheet rock. I've found that
they will hold a phenomenal amount of weight when used in cinder block.

patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | You can't find the answers in the bottom of a
George Patterson -  | whiskey glass, but if you look hard enough, you'll
                    | forget the questions.
                    |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: jfouts@pioneer.arc.nasa.gov (Jeanne Fouts ACF)
Subject: Re: Re: How to tell a REAL buyer's agent
Organization: NASA Ames Res. Ctr. Mtn Vw CA 94035
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 16:51:51 GMT

In article <1992Nov6.170310.2052@mccc.edu> pjh@mccc.edu (Pete Holsberg) writes:
>HOW DO YOU IDENTIFY A BUYERS AGENT?
>	At your first meeting with an agent, ask "Can you represent me
>as a buyers agent?" If the answer is "yes", both of you should sign a
>contract to that effect. If the agent looks at you with a blank stare,
>you know that you are NOT dealing with a buyer's agent but with a
>SELLING AGENT, a person who represents the seller and will not act in
>accordance with the list above.
>	There is no requirement, at this point, that you pay your
>buyer's agent. The only thing you need is a contract that spells out that
>this agent's fiduciary responsibility is to YOU.
>
>====
>
>Hope that helps. BA is not widespread but it is growing.
>
>
>Pete

   When I was looking to but a house in CA this spring I went to a Realtor
out of the Yellow Pages as I had no connections to get reccomendations that
I could trust. The first person I talked to did not seem to listen to what
I was looking for and kept showing me everything in the price range even
if it had what I considered to be disqualifications. All I had to do was
tell this person that I no longer wanted to work with them and I could
go to another realtor at a different agency. If I had signed a contract,
I would have not been able to switch to someone that I could work with.
The second agent did not become my "buyer's agent" until I made an offer
on the house. Then I made a contract that was only good for the attempt
to obtain that house. If the sale did not go through, the agent would
get nothing. The second agent was more suited to my temperment and I
did succeed in buying my house with her.

Jeanne Fouts
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: sbrenner@cbnewsb.cb.att.com (scott.d.brenner)
Subject: Getting Ready to Sell House: How to Make it Most Appealing?
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 15:33:10 GMT

My wife and I are getting ready to sell our house and move into 
something larger.  Since this is our first house, we've never had
to prepare a house for showing and sale.  I think I know some obvious
things to do such as clean it well (both inside and out), spackle and
paint, clean the carpet (either professionally or with one of those
rental doohickeys), maybe add some plants, etc.

I'd like to hear from people who have sold a house and have tips and 
suggestions on the things you did that made the most difference.
I'd also like to find out if there's something I'm forgetting about.
I did a radon test about 3 years ago; the level was between 0 and very
minimal.  Should I repeat this test now so I can have a recent report
for a potential buyer? 

Should I think about making improvements?  I'm thinking about minor
things like wallpapering the bathroom and major things like adding
a bathroom in the (unfinished) basement.  If making these improvements
would result in a faster sale and/or a higher price, I might be willing
to make the investment.

Any other comments on selling a house would be appreciated.

a T d H v A a N n K c S e

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Scott D. Brenner
AT&T Consumer Communications Services
Basking Ridge, NJ
sbrenner@attmail.com
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: heflin@rtsg.mot.com (Suzanne Stratton Heflin)
Subject: Re: Getting Ready to Sell House: How to Make it Most Appealing?
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Distribution: usa,na
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 21:38:18 GMT

mryan@stsci.edu writes:

>>      Make sure no "evil scents" are present in the whole house.  We retain
>> memories of bad smells for a long time.  Hide those dirty socks in the hamper.
>> 

>This is very important.  I sold a house last year, and I had two cats and
>a dog.  I cleaned the litterbox daily and got a plug-in air freshener for 
>the livingroom.  I took the kids and the dog out to the back yard when
>agents brought people by.

Agreed.  When I had my open house, I sliced several apples, tossed in
cinnamon and put it in water on the stove to simmer.  The house smelled
great (and sold in one day!)


>As far as the original questions about wallpapering a bathroom and adding
>a basement bathroom:  skip the wallpaper, just paint it.  Most new owners
>will want to decorate it themselves, and it's a lot easier for them to
>repaint or wallpaper without having to strip off YOUR wallpaper.

I didn't totally wallpaper, but did put up a nice $20 border all around
my master bedroom.  Really improved the looks (was sorry I didn't do
it sooner!)
From: cervi@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Mark Cervi)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Installing garage door openers
Date: 13 Nov 92 14:15:39 GMT
Distribution: world,local
Organization: NSWC, Carderock Div. Det., Annapolis Facility

In article <1duvc1INNl5h@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> wb8foz@skybridge.scl.cwru.edu 
(David Lesher) writes:
.Others said
.# Chad> The manual explicitly says to place the thing at least 2 1/2
.# Chad> inches above the tracks.  What can I do?
.#
.# How about popping a hole in the sheetrock and putting the motor up between
.# the ceiling joists.
.
.Well,
.I'm buying a house with maybe 1" of clearance. Popping a hole would be
.a mite difficult - it's concrete above...
.
.One Netter suggested a scheme she had where the arm was as long as the
.door's travel so that the track was only farther into the garage, never
.over the door. I can not use that either - across the garage just past
.the door is a big steel beam from wall to wall.....
.
.Any other ideas?
.A host is a host from coast to coast..wb8foz@skybridge.scl.cwru.edu

Just think of all the exercise you will be getting as you manually raise
and lower the garage door.

-- 
	Mark Cervi, CARDEROCKDIV, NSWC Code 2752, Annapolis, MD  21402
	  cervi@oasys.dt.navy.mil, (w) 410-267-2261, (h) 410-647-0990
From: pete@carrera.wvus.org (Pete Gregory)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: wagner airless sprayer
Date: Wed, 04 Nov 92 05:35:51 PST
Organization: Private System

hi - i'm painting the interior of our 10-yr-old home... now that the walls
are painted in some rooms, we're noticing that the acoustic ceilings really
need to be painted as well.

i was discussing my alternatives with a paint-expert guy i trust at the
local home improvement store:

1. paint with the correct paint and roller.  hard work, inexpensive, and
   i can count on patching a few places where the ceiling gets stuck to
   the roller (yuck).

2. hire a painter to do it (est. $300-500 for three rooms).  no work,
   expensive.

3. buy a wagner airless sprayer ($150) and use the same ceiling paint 
   (behr ceiling ultra pure white), and keep the sprayer [almost]
   forever.

getting the airless sprayer sounds intriguing to me.  i could paint the 
room quickly and with a lot less hassle than rolling it, and for a lot
less $$$ than hiring a painter.  the paint shop guy says there is
"practically no overspray" with this sprayer (i'd still drop-cloth
*everything* and use a cardboard spray shield, since i've already painted
the walls).

anyone in net-land use a wagner (or other brand) airless sprayer?  can you
convince me one way or the other on this?

thanks....


Pete Gregory, at home

pete@carrera.wvus.org
ames!elroy!wvus!carrera!pete
From: egreen@east.sun.com (Ed Green - Pixel Cruncher)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: FYI: This Old Pyramid
Date: 5 Nov 1992 20:56:14 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, RTP, NC
Distribution: world
Reply-To: egreen@east.sun.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: laser.east.sun.com

In article 21873@pslu1.psl.wisc.edu, nicklaus@lonetree.physics.wisc.edu (Dennis Nicklaus) writes:
>
>We watched this last night.  It was fantastic!

The construction of the pyramidette showed that a ramp could have been
built like a helix around the great pyramid, the dirt need not have
been built up the height of the pyramid itself.

If nothing else, it should shut up the "ancient astronauts" theorists.

---
Ed Green, former Ninjaite |I was drinking last night with a biker,
  Ed.Green@East.Sun.COM   |and I showed him a picture of you.  I said,
DoD #0111  (919)460-8302  |"Go on, get to know her, you'll like her!"
 (The Grateful Dead) -->  |It seemed like the least I could do...
From: dburns@cvbnet.prime.com (Dana Burns x4370 5-2)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: A humidifier into central AC/heating system
Date: 12 Nov 92 15:11:01 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Computervision

I third the "keep it clean" setiment!

Yes, they cause some corrosion in the vents. My corrosion seems to be on the
ventwork below the unit.

The two big advantages (to mine at least, and probably all) are that they
automatically fill themselves and that you can set the humidistat. I have
a weather station in the livingroom and the humidistat is very accurate.

The other issue with humidifiers is not to run them too high, as condensation
inside the walls can cause your structural wood to rot over time.

I can't remember the name, and it came with the house so I don't know the
cost.

In article <27361@oasys.dt.navy.mil>, kim@oasys.dt.navy.mil (John Kim) writes:
|> 
|>     My friend thinks about a humidifier into the central heating/AC 
|> system. His idea is that cut an air duck round in the boiler room and
|> put the humidfier into it. If they have the humidifier around, could 
|> anyone tell me the model name and it's price?  Any pro and con idea 
|> of its idea?  Can it cause the air duck rust and sanitary problem?
|> 
|> John Kim

-- 
Dana Burns  \\\
             ----===---
            ///
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: jeff@tct.com (Jeff Witzer)
Subject: Central Vacs
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1992 22:55:45 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: TC Telemanagement, Clearwater, FL

I'm going through the final selection of options for a new house and was
wondering what features anyone would recommend, specifically those things
you may be kicking yourself about not including when you bought/built...

The one that a friend suggested was a central vac.  The benifits he listed
were:
	- *MUCH* improved suction/cleaning ability
	- more mobility since you only have the hose & attachments to drag
	- quieter since the motor is out in the garage
	- larger capacity filter so you have to empty it less often

What do you think?  How do the prices stack up compared to good vacs?  I
currently own a (well-used) Hoover upright, but the new house will be 40% 
tile and polyurethaned wood which requires sweeping or hose attachments 
(uprights have hose adapters but hardly any suction makes it to the 
attachments).

Thanks, 

jeff
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Locksets - brand recommendations
From: michael@sunbeam.ksc.nasa.gov (Michael D. Myjak x7-3286)
Date: 10 Nov 92 09:29:45
 nic.com><1992Nov06.211045.9817@mav.com> <BxHFoF.HxF@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu>
Organization: NASA, Kennedy Space Center, FL.
In-reply-to: berger@atropa's message of Tue, 10 Nov 1992 04:12:01 GMTLines: 30


> I do a little lock work too.  I've never seen a decently made kwikset
> product.  They're at the bottom of my list.  I haven't seen a new Weiser
> in several years.  Are they out of business?

What exactly, is it that you find wrong with kwikset locks? Is it
perhaps the technical merits of the cylinder?  The bolt? Not being an
expert in this area, I find it hard to grasp why any dead bolt
wouldn`t be stronger then a maple door jamb (... that measures 3/4"
deep by 1/2" thick) after drilling the receiver hole. I am assuming
that the jamb is weaker then the steel bolt. Perhaps I am wrong?

Here's what I did to strengthen this weakness in my doors. Before the
casing molding was installed, I took a router and shaved an 1/8" off
the <about to be hidden> edge of the door jamb for a length of about
2' around the latch point. In this area I placed a 3/4"x2' length of
zinc-plated angle iron; the angle slipped between the jamb and the
stud.  I drilled and counter sunk 2" drywall screws every 2" and then
placed the door casing over it hiding it nicely.  Now if somebody
tries to kick the door in they will not only have a much harder time
breaking the jamb... they will probably break their foot.

--
- Michael D. Myjak			
  Senior Technical Specialist, Systems Analyst
  McDonnell Douglas Space Systems Company
  Kennedy Space Center, Fl., 32815
  MYJAK@TITAN.KSC.NASA.GOV

Gravity. It's not just a good idea. Its the LAW!
From: egreen@east.sun.com (Ed Green - Pixel Cruncher)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Re: How to tell a REAL buyer's agent
Date: 12 Nov 1992 16:07:38 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, RTP, NC
Distribution: world
Reply-To: egreen@east.sun.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: laser.east.sun.com

In article 14010@dg-rtp.dg.com, eliot@chutney.rtp.dg.com (Topher Eliot) writes:
>I've heard that buyers who get real buyers agents working for them sometimes
>can take advantage of the benefits of such, and then at the last minute get
>the listing agent to split the commision being payed by the seller, just as
>if the buyer's agent had been a "selling" agent all along. 

What "last minute?"  Most buyers agents get paid this way to begin
with, the only difference from a "normal" RE agent being their legal
obligations.

> It makes me think
>that if I ever list a house for sale through an RE agent again (not that I
>think it's a good idea in general), I will put a clause in my contract stating
>that if the buyer is represented by a buyer's agent at any point in the
>negotiations, the commision I pay will go down by 50%.

What difference does it make to you as a seller WHAT representation the
buyer has?  You pay your agent to list and sell your house.  If your
agent wants to split that fee with some other agent who provides a
buyer, regardless of their relationship, I don't see that it is
particularly any of your business.

>  Let that seller, who
>is benefiting from the buyer's agency, REALLY pay for it!

This makes no sense at all.  The buyer is benefiting from the buyer's
agent, not the seller.


---
Ed Green, former Ninjaite |I was drinking last night with a biker,
  Ed.Green@East.Sun.COM   |and I showed him a picture of you.  I said,
DoD #0111  (919)460-8302  |"Go on, get to know her, you'll like her!"
 (The Grateful Dead) -->  |It seemed like the least I could do...
From: lee@hsh.com (Lee Havemann)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Gas logs in your fireplace
Date: 10 Nov 92 21:17:07 GMT
Followup-To: misc.consumers.house
Organization: HSH Associates

In article <1dlujkINNf1h@news.aero.org>, wae@aero.org (William A. Emanuelsen) writes:
> In article <FAUNT.92Nov6113544@dustbin.cisco.com> faunt@dustbin.cisco.com (Doug Faunt N6TQS 415-688-8269) writes:
>>A question I've had for a while:
>>Why are gas pipes requires to be black iron?  Why not galvanized?
> 
> I didn't think it was a requirement, just traditional, so that you can
> tell a gas pipe from a water pipe.  It wouldn't be a whole lot of fun
> to unscrew a water pipe and end up with a major gas leak.  Or if it was
> stuck, perhaps use a cutting torch on it...BOOM!
> -- 

It's because black iron is non-sparking.

-- 

 Lee Havemann, Sys_op       HSH Associates          (201) 838-3330 
 Internet: lee@hsh.com    Compuserve: 70410,3507    AOL: HSH Assoc
 "Any opinions expressed are not necessarily those of anyone else, 
  including myself."                     
From: dick@hpscit.sc.hp.com (Dick Lucas)
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 16:43:24 GMT
Subject: Re: new septic system odors: advice wanted
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Clara, CA
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house

It takes several months for the "good bacteria" to establish themselves.
Until this happens, you will get odors from the vent.  It took my septic
system almost a year to stop smelling.  Fortunately, the vents were all on the
roof so the smell was not too noticeable.  At this point, I have 17 years on
the system with no problems.  The only maintainence required has been to
alternate the drain field.  The system has 2 drain fields and a valve which
allows me to use alternate fields on alternate years.

Dick Lucas
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: mja@philabs.philips.com (Michael Amato)
Subject: Re: R-values
Originator: mja@hercules
Reply-To: mja@philabs.philips.com (Michael Amato)
Organization: Philips Laboratories, Briarcliff, NY 10510
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 15:22:33 GMT


In article <1992Nov6.031244.12235@wixer.cactus.org>, guppy@wixer.cactus.org (Jennifer Mery) writes:
|> Anyone have any good ideas on how i should go about insulating the
|> vertical parts (sides) of my vaulted ceiling? It's already insulated on
|> the top, but the walls at stick up above the regular rafters get hot in
                          ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Do you mean the vertical knee walls that fill in between the 8' ceiling
joists and the cathedral ceiling? If they are exposed to attic space then
insulate with normal wall insulation. The best is to use 5 1/2" R-21, but
unless you have 2x6 construction this will be tricky. Then you would want to
use 3 1/2" R13. For more R value put insulation board over it.
If the walls are not accessible you will have to go with a blown-in product.

If this is not what you were talking about then "never mind" :-).


|> the summer.
|> 
|> jam
|> -- 
|> ==============================================================================
|> Jennifer Mery |
|> Austin, Texas | guppy@wixer.cactus.org
|> ==============================================================================
-- 
+-----------------------------------------------------------------+
| Michael Amato  DoD#0639 | "If pro is the opposite of con,       |
| mja@philabs.philips.com | then what is Congress"? - Will Rogers |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: hfunk@src.honeywell.com (Harry Funk)
Subject: Re: R-values
Reply-To: hfunk@src.honeywell.com (Harry Funk)
Organization: Honeywell Systems & Research Center
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 16:41:22 GMT

In article <1992Nov13.062141.2776@adobe.com> pngai@adobe.com (Phil Ngai) writes:
>In article <1992Nov12.155202.17035@hubcap.clemson.edu> hubcap@hubcap.clemson.edu (System Janitor) writes:

>>how does the insulation value that you do get compare to 4 inch insulation
>>in a 2X4 stud wall.
>
>According to "The Visual Handbook of Building and Remodeling", ... the R
>value per inch goes up linearly as you compress it, from about 3.2 at 100%
>thickness to about 3.8 at 50% thickness.
>
>To answer your specific question, R-19 insulation which is 6.25 inches
>thick gives R-18 in a 5.5 inch wall (2x6) and R-13 in a 3.5 inch wall

[stuff deleted]

>This question has come up before with responses as I described, and there
>is no reason to believe this time will be any different.  Consider it an
>opportunity to determine the reliability of the participants.

Well, at the risk of calling into question my reliability :^), I'll take a
stab at why someone who's *really* pedantic (me, for example :^)) might
maintain that you get less total R-value *and* less R-value per inch when
you compress fiberglass.  First, let me say that the loss is negligible for
most applications.  That said, I'd base my conclusion on the following data
gleaned from "Mark's Standard Handbook for Mechanical Engineers" (which
ought to be subtitled, "a little knowledge is a dangerous thing" :^).

Thermal Conductivities
(k expressed in BTU/h/ft^2/unit temperature gradient [degree F/ft]) - I
didn't choose the units :^)

Material			   k
----------------------------------------
air (at 32 degrees F):		0.0140
glass (pyrex or soda lime):	0.59

[others for interest]
Styrofoam			0.021
Concrete (sand and gravel):	1.05
Pine (white)			0.060 (heat flow cross grain,
					parallel is 2-3x)
Gypsum board			0.062
Diamond			      320
===========================================================================

So, the way I'd read this, if you compress fiberglass so there's no air
left (that is, at the limit), it conducts more heat than if there were air
in the cavity by a factor of 40 or so.  (_Note_ _that_ _I'm_ _ignoring_
_convection_).  

When you take into account convection effects, it may be that stuffing more
into the cavity finds voids more effectively and the net effect is
positive.  I don't know a way to do that analysis (period, much less
easily.)

Harry
--
Harry A. Funk     Principal Research Scientist        Voice: (612)-782-7396
Honeywell Systems and Research Center             FAX:       (612)-782-7438
3660 Technology Dr.   MS:MN65-2500           Inet:  HFunk@src.honeywell.com
Minneapolis, MN 55418 			Bang:  {umn-cs,ems,mmm}!srcsip!funk
From: mtw8527@bcstec.ca.boeing.com (Mike Wallach)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Molding
Date: 7 Nov 92 19:33:25 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Boeing Computer Services, Seattle

What is the proper way to install/attach moulding to a surface/wall?
Does it only need to be nailed up or should it also be glued/tacked
so the moulding is flush to the wall thru out its run?
If it should be tacked or glued what do you use?

			Mike Wallach
			mtw8527@eeidf002.ca.boeing.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: prange@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Henry Prange)
Subject: Re: Re: How to tell a REAL buyer's agent
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 14:31:46 GMT

Irrespective of what contracts or laws my suggest, a realtor primarily works
for the realtor, not the buyer or the seller. It is to the realtor's distinct
advantage to arrange a sale in the least time possible to minimize overhead
and maximize return for time invested. Thus, the best strategy is to convince
the seller to undervalue their home and convince any buyer to pay whatever
the asking price may be. A few $$ lost in comission by selling low is easily
compensated for by the increased volume. Bottom line: the realtor is the
realtor's friend; let both the buyer and seller beware.