HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: hfunk@src.honeywell.com (Harry Funk)
Subject: Re: HoneyWell Programmable Thermostat
Reply-To: hfunk@src.honeywell.com (Harry Funk)
Organization: Honeywell Systems & Research Center
Distribution: usa 
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 22:08:23 GMT

In article <BzF8Mr.MtF@taligent.com> kayshav_dattatri@taligent.com (Kayshav Dattatri) writes:
>When I called Honeywell, all she could tell me was that "there wasn't much 
>difference except for the appearance"


Mind you, I don't work on thermostats.  I don't know squat about
thermostats.  But, I didn't like the "wasn't much difference" answer, so I
called.  The answer I got was:

The CT-3400 is a retail model, designed to be similar to the T8600, but
with reduced complexity and features.  The T8600 is a trade model, that is,
designed to be sold to contractors.  The CT-3400 is battery powered, where
the T8600-D111 is transformer powered.  The T8600-D111 (I'm using the
specific model number because there's a family of ChronoTherm III products
for different applications [heat pumps, e.g.]) has an auto changeover from
heat <-> cool based on the program.  There are a few more program keys on
the T8600-D111, such as "Skip Next" and "Change to last period".  There are
system operation indicator lights on the T8600-D111, namely energy savings
(lit during "leave" and "sleep" periods), and system (lit during "call for
heat/cool").  There are a number of similarities, including the terminal
connections, adaptive intelligence (he didn't tell me what that meant, and
I didn't ask), override, ....

Hope this helps (and doesn't constitute a sales pitch),
Harry.			"Honeywell did not proofread this post."  :^)
--
Harry A. Funk     Principal Research Scientist        Voice: (612)-782-7396
Honeywell Systems and Research Center             FAX:       (612)-782-7438
3660 Technology Dr.   MS:MN65-2500           Inet:  HFunk@src.honeywell.com
Minneapolis, MN 55418 			Bang:  <any-smart-host>!srcsip!funk
From: pjh@mccc.edu (Pete Holsberg)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Closing on the newly built home - need check list
Date: 20 Dec 92 17:23:40 GMT
Organization: The College On The Other Side Of Route One

In article <BzIqDG.87H@magpie.nycenet.edu> manes@magpie.nycenet.edu (Steve Manes) writes:
=alexg@austin.ibm.com wrote:
=: 
=: Consider getting a professional building inspector. Should not cost
=: more than $150-200 but you'll learn a lot about your future home.
=: At least his unbiased and not as excited as you are.
=
=Good point, but also be careful about picking a good home inspector.

In NJ, home inspectors are now required to be licensed.

=Don't ask your real estate agent for a home inspector referral
=because some kick back referral fees to the agent ('nuff said
=there).

There's a libel suit if I ever heard of one! Can you prove that it
actually occurred with one inspector/inspection company? With more than one?
From: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (patterson,george r)
Subject: Re: staining pine vs staining lauan
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 92 18:55:04 GMT

In article <4000083@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM> hester@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (Bob Hester) writes:
>
>> Can one stain pine and lauan (possibly with two stains) to something
>> acceptably similar?  Thx.
>
>	I just finished a basement. The trim was oak, the door frames were
>pine, and the door were mahogony I believe. I used Watco walnut oil stain on
>everything. Then put Varathene over it all.

Just want to point out that luan is *not* mahogany - it's not even in
the same family of wood. It does look a great deal like mahogany when
both are finished naturally, hence some people call it that. There were
several sucessfull suits for false advertising in the early 70s against
stores that advertised luan as mahogany (a common practice in the 60s).

This isn't a intended as a cut at Bob - he may actually have mahogany
doors, for all I know.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | The origin of the English slang term "boffin"
                    | for scientist is not known; however, it has been
George Patterson -  | pointed out that the eggs of the Puffin are perfect
                    | obloids which always return to the same position
                    | if pushed and that this is also true of the ideas
                    | expressed by boffins.
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Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: floydg@oakhill.sps.mot.com (Floyd Goodrich)
Subject: Re: Problem with electric water heater
Organization: Motorola Inc., Austin Tx.
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 14:55:14 GMT

In article <1992Dec11.221334.10441@delfin.com> mr@delfin.com (Mark Rosenberg) writes:
>Is it possible to have a water heater produce only a partial tankfull of
>hot water?

A water heater of this size will usually have 2 heating elements.  Your
description usually means the lower heating element is bad and should be 
replaced.  It's a good time to drain your tank anyway to get rid of the gunk 
in it.

If the upper element is bad, you will get a lot of warm water.  If the lower
element is bad, you will get about 1/2 as much hot water.

By the same token, as long as YOU have enough hot water for YOUR shower,
make your wife fix it! :-)

Floyd Goodrich


Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: CPLS13@email.mot.com (Steven_Cohn)
Subject: Re: Cleaning Blinds?
Organization: Motorola_CoveragePLUS
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 09:48:03 GMT
Followup-To: misc.consumers.house

In article <1992Dec15.000509.5111@aus.intel.com>,
patti@hosehead.hf.intel.com (Patti Beadles) wrote:
> 
> One of the things the old owners of my condo left behind for me was
> a miniblind cleaner ... you know, one of those things with half a
> dozen fuzzy fingers.  It was brand new.
> 
> The blinds, however, appear to have been put up when the place was
> built, and never cleaned.  I'm sure that they were white in a previous
> life, but it's hard to tell.  I tried cleaning them with the cleaner
> gizmo, but no such luck.
> 
> All of the blinds are off the windows right now, so I was thinking
> about trying to hose the dirt off.  I don't know, though, if I'd wind
> up rusting them.  Any suggestions?
> -- 
> Patti Beadles  503/696-4358 | I don't speak for Intel, nor vice-versa.
>    patti@hosehead.intel.com |
>    75555.767@compuserve.com | If it wasn't for the last minute,
> or just yell, "Hey, Patti!" |             I'd never get anything done!

Try to find a place that specializes in cleaning them.  We found a place
that does ultrasonic cleaning - it costs about $5-$15 per, depending on
size, and does a great job.

Steven Cohn
Motorola CoveragePLUS Engineering
CPLS13@EMAIL.MOT.COM
From: maoh@phyast.nhn.uoknor.edu (Maureen O'Halloran)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Sticky remote controlled garage door
Date: 11 Dec 92 16:46:06 GMT
Article-I.D.: phyast.maoh.724092366
Organization: Engineering Computer Network, University of Oklahoma, Norman, OK, USA
Originator: usenet@kittyhawk.ecn.uoknor.edu


>In article <92345.133122JOHANN@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>, Johann Pretorius <JOHANN@MAINE.MAINE.EDU> writes:
>>  We just moved into a house and one of the garage doors is acting
>>up funny.  Sometimes, when I drive in and push the remote, the door
>>will lift about 8" and then stop.  When I again push the remote,
>>of course, the door closes.  It (sometimes) does this a few times;
>>also from the control box inside the garage.  Any ideas ??

saseph@hal.unx.sas.com (Ed Hughes) writes:

>It sounds like maybe the auto-reverse (which makes the door stop when
>it hits something) might have slipped out of adjustment, into the
>hyper-sensitive range.  Perhaps the slight resistance of the door against
>its track is now tripping this safety feature.

>On a Genie, you adjust this by turning a nut in the rear of the 
>motor unit.

Before adjusting what is a safety feature, make sure that your door is
not stopping for a good reason.  My door was sticking where there was
a warp in the track, which sounds like yours if it stops at the same
place everytime.  I sprayed the chain and tracks with WD-40 and it
worked fine after that (it was only sticking in very cold weather
anyway).  Particularly if you have small children or pets you don't
want to defeat the auto-reverse if it is actually adjusted properly.

--

 Maureen O'Halloran
 
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: pjh@mccc.edu (Pete Holsberg)
Subject: Re: Closing on a newly built home - need checklist
Organization: The College On The Other Side Of Route One
Distribution: na
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1992 17:42:42 GMT

In article <1992Dec8.221146.17743@linus.mitre.org> jdouglas@MITRE.org (Jason Douglas) writes:
=
=A cursory walkthrough won't find all your problems.  Hire a professional 
=inspector (yes, for a new house) and/or study up on inspection yourself.

Walk-throughs and inspections are two different things. The walk-through
is generally done just before closing, to insure that the seller has
indeed left the chandelier and the mower and the garage door opener that
he said he'd leave.

You know waht an inspection is. :-)
From: freds@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Fred Saavedra)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Tapping a 220V line for lights
Date: 18 Dec 92 21:05:19 GMT
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server

I just installed a 50 amp 220 circuit for my spa. My starting point was
advice from the electrical department at an industrial supply store.

Good advice. Then I reviewed the Ortho ,Sunset, and Time/Life books
on electrical wiring.    These were also good on techniques.

BUT the best three hours was spent in the building inspectors office
reading their code book (The National Code Book, or something like that).
As I came accross something I did not understand all I had to do was ask.
 One error I made was the ground wire, the supply store said it was common 
 to run a ground that is one gage smaller than the load wires. It cost me $35.
 The Codes state the the ground must not be smaller than the largest
 load wire. In my case that was 6 gage. Also, I had not realized
 that for pools and spas, the code requires a 4 wire 220V circuit,
 (2 hot, 1 neutral, 1 ground), and for 4, 6 gage wires, the minimum
 conduit is 1 inch.  instead of the standard 3 wire circuit, which
 could use a 3/4 inch conduit.The public library also had a copy of the book, 
 which I used after the first initial contact at the inspectors office.

The first responce to the your base note has  just about all you need. 
BUT to get the code specs on the box, heigth above ground (ie placement)
etc, refer to the national codes. 

In my case, the code book had a section on spa requirements.

Anyway that's  my 2 cents worth.

Fred
From: pete@carrera.wvus.org (Pete Gregory)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: requalify
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 92 18:39:17 PST
Organization: Private System

hi... several days back i posted something about what to do about
my house that i won't be able to sell because of depressed prices
(i'm relocating to washington).

i was divorced 18 months ago, after buying this house.  i put a 
little note in with my last house payment, telling the lender 
(weyerhauser) that i want my former spouse's name taken off the
loan.

today in the mail, i received loan assumption paperwork.  it turns
out that i'll have to assume the loan myself in order to take my
former wife's name off the loan.

what if i don't qualify?  will it go into a foreclosure, a forced
sale, or will the existing loan just stay in force, or ??????

i can see it now... i want to sell the place, but others are selling
similar places for less than i owe.  mortgage company says, "sorry,
you don't qualify, just sign here and we'll take the home back..."
too good to be true, i'm sure.

opinions/experience?


| Pete Gregory, at home
| 
| Internet: pete@carrera.wvus.org   Bangpath: ames!elroy!wvus!carrera!pete
| 
| The lab just called... your brain is ready.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (patterson,george r)
Subject: Re: How often do septic systems need to be
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: na
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 92 16:19:47 GMT

In article <2433@mcdbos.UUCP> vinceg@mcdbos.UUCP (Vince Grove) writes:
>In article <1992Dec8.184153.1558@cs.wayne.edu> mje@pookie.pass.wayne.edu writes:
>>Rural friends tell me that if you treat your septic system right, feeding it
>>active microorganisms and never pouring toxic wastes down your drains, you
>>*never* have to clean a septic tank out. Enough people have told me this that
>>I believe it.            --mike
>
>I just asked my home inspector this same question. His response was that the
>tank should be pumped ever year or two.
>
>I guess that I could look inside each year to see how things are progressing
>just ot be sure.

Looking isn't going to tell you much - ever seen pea soup? Change the color
to brown, and you have a fair idea of what's in your grease pit. You need
a stick long enough to reach the bottom of the pit, clothes you don't care
about, and rubber gloves. Basically, you probe with the stick and determine
how deep the sludge has gotten by the change in resistance as you push
down.

I saw my father do this years ago. Never tried it myself.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | Laser Printer, n;  A xeroxigraphical copying
                    |   machine with additional malfunctioning parts.
                    |                            The Dumpty Dictionary
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond)
Subject: Re: Propane Electric Generators?
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 92 08:29:42 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.

mr@delfin.com (Mark Rosenberg) writes:

>I'm wondering if there are electric generators that run on propane. At the
>least, I'd want to be able to heat water, run the furnace, and power the
>well pump. Anyone know of such a generator, or have experience with one?

Yes.  On the low end is an 11kw unit offered from Northern Hydraulics
for about a kilobuck.  It will run on either propane or NG.  

I'm installing an NG powered generator next summer.  Using almost any
reasonable assumption as to generator life and life cycle cost, I 
can generate electricity cheaper burning NG than it costs from
my local co-op when the summer premium rates are in effect.

Look for:  

*  non-Briggs & Stratton engines - loud and short lived
*  Low speed - 1800 RPM instead of 3600.
*  low oil cutoff
*  external oil resevoir
*  electronic voltage and frequency control
*  electric start
*  Auto start on power failure
*  auto transfer switching - usually an external box.
*  crankcase heater 
*  remote control panel
*  inrush capacity - ability to supply the inrush current needed by 
   electric motors when starting.  Clues to good inrush capacity, other
   than the data sheet include lots of iron in the generator stator and
   flywheels.

John
-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC               |Interested in high performance mobility?  
Performance Engineering Magazine(TM) | Interested in high tech and computers? 
Marietta, Ga                         | Send ur snail-mail address to 
jgd@dixie.com                        | perform@dixie.com for a free sample mag
Need Usenet public Access in Atlanta?  Write Me for info on Dixie.com.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: chrz@tellabs.com (Peter Chrzanowski)
Subject: Re: big antenna in suburban area
Organization: Tellabs, Inc.
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 18:51:11 GMT

In article <111338@siemens.siemens.com>, aad@siemens.com. (Anthony Datri) writes:
> 
> I just moved into a place in a fairly rural area east of Princeton, NJ.
> There's a very simple antenna in the attic, with the old-style flat
> dual-conductor cable coming down.  Reception is nothing to brag about.
> I recently saw an ad for a ~$70 indoor antenna from Winegard, but haven't
> heard anything about it.

If there's a long length of downlead from the antenna, or if you're connected
to more than one set, adding an amplifier as close to the antenna as possible
should help.

Aside from that, I wouldn't spend $70. for an indoor antenna.  If there's
space in the attic for an outdoor one, replace that instead.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: margaret@infonode.ingr.com (Margaret Wiginton)
Subject: Musty Smell When the Heat Comes On
Organization: Intergraph Corporation, Huntsville, AL.
Distribution: misc
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 14:14:55 GMT

We have central heat and whenever it comes on, the air coming
out of the vents has a peculiar musty/moldly/stuffy odor.
We change the filter on the intake (located in a hall closet
with louvered doors) regularly.  Could someone please recommend 
other things we might check?

Thanks!
-- 
___________________
Margaret Wiginton
margaret@msw104i.b24b.ingr.com
From: vermilye@Oswego.EDU (Jon R. Vermilye)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Gas Dryer is not that hot
Date: 16 Dec 92 19:23:45 GMT
Reply-To: vermilye@oswego.Oswego.EDU (Jon R. Vermilye)
Organization: Instructional Computing Center, SUNY at Oswego, Oswego, NY

In article <1992Dec14.215939.9281@novell.com> bradley@novell.com (Brad Soe) writes:
>
>I have a gas dryer that has to be 18 years old or so. It was working fine
>until recently. The dryer does not heat up that much and takes a long time
>for close to dry. After about 60 min of drying, the dryer is not very hot, 
>and I noticed that there is some condensation on the door which drips on to 
>the floor. It takes a while, but eventually I can get the clothes to dry
>after over 2 hours of drying time.


Check to see what the burner is doing.  Most brands have some type of
overheat sensor.  If the exaust is plugged, the sensor will shut of the gas.  
If the sensor has failed, it usually fails in the open position, and will
 either shut off the gas valve, or only let it open for a short time.  On our
Matag, the replacement cost < $15.00 and took about 5 minutes to replace.

Another possibility is that the dryer uses some type of sensor to determine
when the clothes are dry & that has failed.  Good luck.
>Any Help would be appreciated. 
>
>Brad
>
>
>
>Brad Soe
>bradley@novell.com


Jon R. Vermilye                          		         315 341 2138
Department of Theatre, Tyler Hall                  vermilye@oswego.oswego.edu
SUNY Oswego                                         ..rutgers!oswego!vermilye
Oswego, NY 13126                                     vermilye@snyoswva.bitnet
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (patterson,george r)
Subject: Re: Insulating against an above grade concrete wall.
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 92 01:11:41 GMT

In article <1992Dec14.164410.29302@news.clarkson.edu> zulch@suntan.ece.clarkson.edu (Peter Zulch) writes:
>
>I am in the beginning stages of rebuilding my kitchen.  Two of the walls
>in the kitchen are concrete block and are in pretty good shape, there
>is no outside water coming in. I will be putting up 2X4 walls against
>these concrete walls and I want to add faced battened insulation.
>My concern is that the concrete wall may get condensation on it and 
>get the insulation wet. I thought of putting a vapor barrior between
>the 2X4 wall and the concrete to keep the insulation from gettin wet
>but thought this would be a worse idea as it would cause water vapor
>to condensate and get the insulation wet.  What should I do to insulate
>these two concrete walls? I assume using faced insulation is the proper 
>thing to do, but what about the extra vapor barrior between the concrete
>and the new 2X4 wall, do I need it and is it a good or bad idea.
>Could someone give me a good idea of what a vapor barrier does?

I just finished reading the Dow/Corning pamphlet (to see what's changed
in the past many years). First off - a vapor barrier is well named; it
stops vapor in the air from passing. Actually, it pretty much stops the
air itself from passing the barrier. Now for the basic question here.

You seem to have a hazy idea of what condensation is. Condensation is
water which forms when the temperature of air drops. It usually forms
on a surface which is colder than the surrounding air. In this particular
case (walls of houses), there are two items which are required for you to
have a problem - 1) a cold surface; in your case, a concrete block wall.
And 2) warm, moist air in contact with this surface.

If you put up a stud wall and fill the spaces with insulation with a
properly installed vapor barrier on this wall facing the living area,
there's no way that warm, moist air can get to the concrete; hence, there's
no condensation.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | You can't find the answers in the bottom of a
George Patterson -  | whiskey glass, but if you look hard enough, you'll
                    | forget the questions.
                    |
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Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,rec.woodworking
From: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (patterson,george r)
Subject: Re: staining pine vs staining lauan
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 92 05:18:52 GMT

In article <1992Dec15.014202.19677@phx.mcd.mot.com> fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com (Fred Christiansen) writes:
>The interior doors I'm buying are lauan.  The (prehung) door frames are pine.
>The bare wood lauan varies somewhat from door to door.  I'd like
>to stain the lauan to something approximating your typical dark oak.
>I don't anticipate problems finding a stain for this (altho I'm
>certainly open to suggestions).  However, I'm uncertain if pine
>will stain to something acceptably matching.

I find that varnishing luan doors without using any stain at all makes it
a fair match for dark oak. The oak oil based stain made by "Varathane" will
give you a very close match if you're carefull. This stain has lots of
pigment in it (unlike the Minwax brand) and will obscure the wood grain if
you leave it on very long. I remove it as soon as it's applied, working one
foot at a time.

You might also try the Minwax cherry stain. It gives a very nice effect on
pine, which also goes well with varnished luan. If it's a little red for
your tastes, you can blend Minwax stains to produce the color you want.

I would recommend against the Minwax "Golden Oak" on pine. It produces a
color that looks artificial to me.

I do have recent first hand experience here. I'm renovating my house and
have replaced every interior door with varnished luan. I've trimmed the
living room and halls with new oak, also varnished without stain. The
kitchen is trimmed in pine with a cherry stain. The only bedroom I've
finished is trimmed in pine, stained with "Golden Oak". I replaced most
of the door frames with new pine. The frames which are trimmed in real
oak are stained with the Varathane oak stain. They're actually just a
little darker than unstained oak, but match the doors nearly perfectly.

For what little it's worth, I used McCloskey's varnish throughout. They
have changed the formula because of recent legislation, however, and it's
not as good as it was. It's still the best I know of - beats the pants
off the "Behr" brand that HD sells.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | There are very few personal problems which
George Patterson -  | cannot be solved by a suitable application
                    | of high explosive.
                    |
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Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house