HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: leut@elc11.icase.edu (Scott T. Leutenegger)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Cradle Plans
Date: 16 Nov 1992 14:48:22 GMT
Organization: ICASE/NASA Langley
NNTP-Posting-Host: elc11.icase.edu
Keywords: cradle rocker baby


I just want to make a few points about cradles, since I just made one:


1)  Consider how you will finish it.  Many (most) finishes are toxic.
	Although a newborn will not be chewing on the cradle, a toddler will.
	Although Alex will soon be out of his cradle, we plan on keeping it
	in his room so he can put stuffed animals in it and play with it.
	I asked the net for safe finishes, the two clear choices were
	Behlens Salad bowl finish, and 100\% pure tung oil, both are non-toxic.
	I used tung oil on cherry and it looks great.

2)  Consumer Reports "Guide to Baby Gear" claims that cradles that rock
	can be dangerous since the baby can be rolled over into the corner and
	not be able to get out.  Besides, they claim that babies like head-to-foot
	motion, not side-side and hence a rocking cradle is not only dangerous,
	but ineffective.  I had a hard time with one since the rocking cradle
	is such a clasic.  Well, I decided to go the safe route and made 
	a "platform" cradle, sort of like a platform bed.  Basically just
	a big box that sits on top of a platform (smaller box).  To make
	it nice looking I made hand-cut dovetails on the corners.

3)  Size of cradle:  This is best determined by going to a baby-furniture
	store and measuring.  You want the sides to be a safe height, I ended
	up with 14".  You can but a pad for the cradle which will give
	you the lenght and width.

4)  Other baby furniture, you may want to check out other baby furniture
	while you are at the store.  They charge $100 and more for really
	garbage changing tables.  I built one out of one sheet of birch
	plywood and a few pieced of hardwoord for only $60 and it it MUCH
	more sturdy and durable.

Good luck,

---Scott

-- 
Scott T. Leutenegger                       Phone:  804-864-8003
Mail Stop 132c                             FAX:    804-864-6134
NASA Langley Research Center
Hampton, VA 23681-0001                     email:  leut@icase.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: dermer@ssd.intel.com (Greg Dermer)
Subject: Re: Electric drills
Organization: Supercomputer Systems Divison, Intel Corp.
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 20:53:45 GMT

In article <1992Nov17.210929.6854@osf.org>, drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas S. Rand) writes:
|> I purchased a DeWalt 3/8" VSR drill the other day for $55 at Home Depot.
|> I'm quite impressed with the quality for the price.  The construction 
|> has ball bearings at all points,  not a cheap thrust bearing in the
|> lot.  The handle is nice to hold and the drill has plenty of power for
|> ......  As an aside, the salesman at HD insisted that
|> DeWalt is not B&D professional warmed over.  But I'm happy.
|> 
|> -- 
|> Douglas S. Rand <drand@osf.org>		OSF/Motif Dev.
|> Snail:         11 Cambridge Center,  Cambridge,  MA  02142
|> Disclaimer:    I don't know if OSF agrees with me... let's vote on it.
|> Amateur Radio: KC1KJ

So what IS the story with DeWalt vs B&D professional.  I have the B&D
heavy duty right angle 1/2" drill, with the 2-speed gearbox (which seems
a very good tool) and it looks identical to the DeWalt equivalent, right
down to the details of the gear shift mechanism.  Is B&D now completely
out of the good tool business (pardon me, my snobbery is showing)?







Greg
dermer@ssd.intel.com
From: Flatline@qube.OCUnix.On.Ca (Flatline)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: CAD and project design
Distribution: world
Date: 22 Nov 92 18:55:35 EDT
Organization: The QuBE BBS

I would also like to find out about home-use CAD programs for drafting...

-- Via DLG Pro v0.992

Richard Brosseau
From home via flatline@qube.ocunix.on.ca
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Organization: Saint Bonaventure University
X-Pmrqc:      1
Priority:     normal
X-Mailer:     Pegasus Mail v2.3 (R4).
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 23 Nov 1992 06:04:38 EST
From:         Pete Jermann <PJERMANN@SBU.EDU>
Subject:      Re: CAD and project design

> My question regarding CAD for woodworking has to do with output of the final
> drawing.  Most of what I have read about design says you should evaluate
> full size drawings of a piece before cutting wood.  I have Generic CAD and
> DOTPLOT but am limited by the size of a printer.  I have a HP Laserjet IIIP
> and an Epson LQ-500.  Does anyone know of a way to easily output a drawing in
> pages and paste them together like most spreadsheets support?

   I believe the latest version of Generic CAD (6.0) comes with a macro
(prntile.mcr) that does exactly that. I haven't used it but remember reading
about it in the manual (which is at home, otherwise I'd give the exact
reference).





Pete Jermann                    |          St. Bonaventure University
Preservation Officer            |          St. Bonaventure, NY 14778
Friedsam Memorial Library       |          (716) 375-2324
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 16 Nov 1992 15:54:18 EST
From:         "Frank Bateman USAEPG" <dbatema@APG-EMH5.APG.ARMY.MIL>
Subject:      Lathes, Joints and Software

I bought a Delta lathe from Woodworkers Supply of New Mexico last
January and am extremely satisfied with it.  This is the relatively
new 400 - 500 $ job.  Virtually all the major catalogue dealers
carry it.  Woodworkers' price includes shipping -- not an insignificant
issue.

My feeble brain seemed to remember something about vinegar and loosening
glued joints -- so I fired up my trusty Woodfind software, gave it      the word
 "vinegar" and in a few seconds it told me to pursue WOOD magazine,
issue 34, page 8.

I've exercised Woodfind fairly hard and found it to be a good product.
(I just wish I could afford all the back issues of the various mags
it keeps referring me to!) :)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: wood@rtsg.mot.com (Dan Wood)
Subject: Re: Cradle Plans
Keywords: cradle rocker baby
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 17:07:10 GMT

   I built a handing cradle & stand from a design in BH&G
Wood magazine, about 4-5 years ago.  Except for a router
to do roundovers (which you could rasp/sand) it only required
a tablesaw.

   I built it out of oak, and used plywood for the endpanels,
as opposed to the glued-up panels the plans called for.  Had
I known how nice it would turn out I would have stuck with solid
wood, but I was worried about finishing the cradle before the
baby came.  I used oak iron-on edging, so it looks good as is,
but in hindsight...

   The stand has a trestle-style bar between the uprights, under
the cradle that I moved up slightly so that the cradle wouldn't
swing as far.  That kept my older child from banging the baby
into the wall, or dumping her on the floor.  :)

   I like the design, easy to build, very safe, and much better
rocking action than cradles with curved runners on the floor.
It's also taller than many cradle designs, cutting down on the
need to stoop.

   If you're interested and can't find the magazine, let me know 
and I'll look it up for you.

-- 
*********************************************************************************
*	Dan Wood   Motorola Inc.	*	 Moto and I disclaim       	*
*	wood@rtsg.mot.com 		*	 everything in this post.	*
*********************************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: CAD and project design
From: stericker_r@qis.dofasco.ca
Date: 20 Nov 92 14:49:22 GMT
Organization: Dofasco Inc, Hamilton, Ont. Can.
Nntp-Posting-User: stericker_r

In article <168A310B42.WHERRYD@wsuvm1.csc.wsu.edu>, WHERRYD@wsuvm1.csc.wsu.edu writes:
> I recently acquired my dream home computer system and I'm interested
> in drawing up some of my wood project plans with a CAD system.  But
> what to use?  GenericCAD? AutoCAD? EasyCAD? TurboCAD? DesignCAD? And
> the list goes on!  My minimum requirement is that the system check
> dimensions for me, that is, a total dimension is equal to the sum of
> its component dimensions on the drawing.  But I would rejoice in a
> system that would build exploded isometric views from three elevation
> views (if that's possible).  I imagine AutoCAD is the most flexible, but
> it also carries a steep learning curve that I'd like to avoid unless
> it's absolutely necessary.
>  
> I was intrigued to find a list of woodworkers communicating digitally.
> Seems like a natural place to find some folks who use CAD as well.
>  
> Thanks in advance for any advice and/or experiences.
>  
> David Wherry
> wherryd@wsuvm1.csc.wsu.edu
>  
My question regarding CAD for woodworking has to do with output of the final
drawing.  Most of what I have read about design says you should evaluate 
full size drawings of a piece before cutting wood.  I have Generic CAD and 
DOTPLOT but am limited by the size of a printer.  I have a HP Laserjet IIIP 
and an Epson LQ-500.  Does anyone know of a way to easily output a drawing in
pages and paste them together like most spreadsheets support? 

Thanks,
Ray Stericker
Process Software Analyst
Dofasco
Hamilton Ontario Canada.
Standard disclaimer
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: quentin@paul (Quentin Scott)
Subject: Liming
Organization: Canon Information Systems Research Australia
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 03:19:46 GMT

I have recently seen several pieces of work which have been finished with  
Liming. Does anyone know how this finish is achieved? The work I have seen this  
used on was all English Oak, however I assume it can also be applied to other  
timbers which good looking results?

Quentin Scott				quentin@research.canon.oz.au
CISRA
From: leut@elc11.icase.edu (Scott T. Leutenegger)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Looking for Futon Couch plans
Date: 23 Nov 1992 15:12:36 GMT
Organization: ICASE/NASA Langley
NNTP-Posting-Host: elc11.icase.edu


There is what looks like a great plan for a futon couch/bed frame in
"Best of Fine Woodworking on Modern Furniture".  I made a frame
by copying a design I saw in a store, it came out okay but if I had
to do it over again I would use the plans in the best of FWW listed above.

---Scott
-- 
Scott T. Leutenegger                       Phone:  804-864-8003
Mail Stop 132c                             FAX:    804-864-6134
NASA Langley Research Center
Hampton, VA 23681-0001                     email:  leut@icase.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: leo@cpd.Tandem.COM (Leo Hejza)
Subject: Re: Recall of 3M wiping varnish???
Organization: Tandem Computers Inc., Cupertino CA
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 21:11:41 GMT

Thank the various clean air acts for the loss of this great, IMHO, finish
product. It had too high a volatile organic content (VOC) for many 
states. I can't get it here in California either.

But if I call my relatives in New York state, they can get it. Good
thing I'm not sneaky enough to have them send it. heh, heh, heh. ;-)

But seriously, it can be had in other states.

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: myron@sharebase.com (Myron Seastrom)
Subject: Spray Painting Furniture
Organization: NCR/ShareBase Corporation
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 92 18:03:15 GMT


I am looking for advice on spray painting solid pine furniture. (painting
was not my  idea) It's for a childs room.
The Goal is to have a high gloss smooth white finish. 
Any recommendations/pitfalls on applying  a paint finiish. The wood is
unfinished, sanded and ready for the next step.

Should I use a sanding sealer first?

Whats the best primer?  

Whats the most forgiving paint for a first try spray? 

Laquer

Enamel

Latex

etc.?

Any good books on the subject?

I have the equipment (compressor, spray gun) but little experiance.

					  Thanks
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: brown@venus.iucf.indiana.edu (Robert J. Brown)
Subject: Update on oak accidentally soaked with WD-40
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.3-4   
Reply-To: brown@venus.iucf.indiana.edu
Organization: IUCF
Distribution:  na
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 19:33:44 GMT

  Some of you might remember the article I posted after a can of
WD-40 unloaded in a cabinet above a stack of freshly planed red
oak, soaking most of the wood. I didn't throw it away, but to get
the smelly stuff out of the shop I simply stacked it out in the barn.

  I recently needed a piece to finish some custom molding for the
inside of the new kitchen windows I installed this fall. After digging
through the stack of "contaminated" material, I found a board that was
only partially coated, mostly on one side and on one edge. Having run
several linear feet of "un-lubed" red oak through the table saw the same
day, I had a good feel for the saw and how fast to feed the material.
To get to the point - when I ripped the piece soaked in WD-40, it went
through the saw like a bannana!! The stuff was sooo slick it was easier
to cut than even soft pine!! 

  Now, I'm not recommending that you "soak" your lumber in WD-40 before
cutting but I'll have to admit it was one of the geatest ripping 
experiences I've ever had!! Incidentally, I did clean the blade after
this with pitch remover to insure none of the WD-40 remained on it for
future cutting!

   ____________________________________________________________
  /\                                                           \____
 /\\\  Robert J. Brown                       Bitnet:BROWN@IUCF  \   \
 \\\\\   Indiana University                     _____________    \   \
  \\\\\____  Cyclotron Facility                 \           /\    \   \
   \\\/   /\    Phone: (812)855-9365             \_________/\\\    \   \
    \/___/\\\_____________________________________\ enjoy  \\\\\____\   \
         \\\/               ____                  /   your  \\\/    /____\
          \/________________\ \/_________________/     shop  \/__________/

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: smb@ulysses.att.com (Steven Bellovin)
Subject: Painting end-grain
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 03:24:07 GMT
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories

I tried painting some pine end-grain today; not at all to my surprise,
the paint was sucked in, leaving almost nothing visible on the
surface.  (This was a white latex paint, if it matters.)  How should I
seal it first?  Just give it more coats of the same paint?  A primer?
A sanding sealer?
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Sun, 22 Nov 1992 16:40:41 EST
From:         Jim Morgan <JMORGAN@BROWNVM.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Wood Cook Stove Repair

>Posted on 22 Nov 1992 at 15:37:40 by Ernie Patterson
>
>Wood Cook Stove Repair
>
>I know this is not exactly a wood working project, but if
>some is involved in restoration you might be able to help
>me.
>
>I am looking for help in restoring a wood cook stove to
>working condition.  The stove was made by the Karr Range Co.
>in Belleville, Il. around 1920-1924.  I would appreciate any
>information about getting parts for the stove or having it
>repaired.  The major problem is the firebox needs major
>repair and without any manuals or other information it is
>difficult to put the stove in working condition.
>
>Thanks for your help.
>
>Ernie Patterson


I'm not familiar with the brand you mention, but here are some possible
sources of information:

The Antique Stove Information Clearinghouse
417 N. Main St.
Monticello, IN  47960

George J. Thaler, Inc.
1300 E. Madison St.
Baltimore, MD  21205
(301) 276-4659

Macy's Texas Stove Works
5515 Almeda Road
Houston, TX  77004
(713) 521-0934

Unity Stove
225 E. 120th St.
New Your, NY  10035
(212) 427-4848

By the way, the owner of Macy's Texas Stoves is Macy Stern, who at one
time starred in the TV show 'Route 66.'

My source for all this information was the _Old House Journal_, July/August,
1989.  This issue also has an article on old stoves (mostly gas, rather than
wood-fired).

Good luck.

Jim Morgan
Brown University
James_Morgan@Brown.Edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: psv2b@poe.acc.Virginia.EDU (Peter S. Vines)
Subject: Wood Lathe Books
Organization: University of Virginia
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 13:30:00 GMT


--
- Peter Vines : vines@virginia.edu : (804) 924-4644 : University of Virginia
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: Magnetic Featherboard
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 01:28:36 GMT

bill nelson writes
> sesv@cbnewsc.cb.att.com (steven.e.sommars) writes:
> : You want to force the wood against the fence and down, never
> : into the blade.  Featherboards should end in front
> : of the sawblade.  Some other types of hold-downs can be placed 
> : between the sawblade and the fence.
> 
> Correct. If you want a featherboard after the blade (to keep the work
> piece against the fence better), then you need to be making a cut that
> is less than the blade kerf thick. That way, there is no waste stock
> to get in the way.
> 
> Since I have a highly smooth and waxed table top, it is easy for me to
> let the board wander away from the fence. With a sharp blade, I do not
> even notice, until too late. The second featherboard - behind the blade
> on finish cuts - eliminates this problem.


Rather than performing a second "finish" cut so that you can use two
featherboards, I recommend using one of the rip-fence-mounted holddowns
(Shophelpers, Ripstrate, Leichtung, etc.) that not only hold the wood down
on the table, but also against the fence. As Steve says, these can even 
be located between the sawblade and the fence in many circumstances.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: hernlem@chermfss.ncsu.EDU (Brad Hernlem)
Subject: Re: Veneers and veneering
Reply-To: hernlem@chermfss.ncsu.EDU (Brad Hernlem)
Organization: North Carolina State University
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 13:58:48 GMT

In article <983m02ff2bL501@JUTS.ccc.amdahl.com>, twl10@ccc.amdahl.com
(Tom Littauer) writes:
> In article <1992Nov17.190711.27955@cbfsb.cb.att.com>
millios@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (william.l.millios) writes:

[...]

> 
> >Glue to use?
> 
> Contact cement. Roll/brush evenly onto *BOTH* mating surfaces. Let dry
> 15 min. *THEN* bring the 2 mating surfaces together. It'll grab instantly
> and permanently (no fiddling with the match allowed). You'll then want
> to remove all bubbles and make sure the glue is bonding at all points
> by using a rolling pin or logical equivalent and (working from the middle
> out) roll the veneer flat.
> 
> Trick for making sure it fits:
> 
> 1) start with oversize veneer and trim it after it's on.
> 2) put wax paper on the dresser top after you glue it, then put
>    the glued veneer on top of that. Position the veneer. Slip the
>    wax paper out and roll down.

Another good way to position veneer or any other laminating material
before contacting it with the work surface is to use a number of dowels
spread out across the piece. 
 
[......]

> 
> Tom
> -- 
> Tom Littauer at Amdahl M/S 278, PO Box 3470, Sunnyvale CA 94088-3470 USA
> +1 408 737 5056     twl10@juts.ccc.amdahl.com     twl10@amail.amdahl.com
> I'll tell you when I'm speaking as Amdahl's Spokesman - usually I'm not.
> V'z n fgrnygu-grpuabybtl rapelcgrq .fvtangher ivehf - TBGPUN!!!

Brad Hernlem (hernlem@chess.ncsu.EDU)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: psv2b@poe.acc.Virginia.EDU (Peter S. Vines)
Subject: Orbital Sanders
Organization: University of Virginia
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 13:28:43 GMT



--
- Peter Vines : vines@virginia.edu : (804) 924-4644 : University of Virginia
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: luoni@jasper.mlb.semi.harris.com (Perry Luoni)
Subject: Re: Upstate NY Sawmilling?
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 14:08:36 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

In article <1992Nov17.015743.2693@cirrus.com> john@cirrus.com (John Wishneusky) writes:
>In article <1992Nov13.201718.19510@schbbs.mot.com> RYLV80@waccvm.corp.mot.com (William Mohrman) writes:
>>
>> Chris Writes:
>> Saturday my neighbor revealed to me that he is sitting on some
>> black walnut logs.  He did this by asking if he could borrow my
>> woodsplitter to turn it into firewood.  When I got done howling,
>> I asked for details.  It's cut into short lengths (3 to 6 feet)
>> for easy handling, and has been air drying for at least 2 years
>> The logs are 16 to 30 inches in diameter.  He says he called some
>> local sawmills, but no one wanted to buy it from him.  He's agreed
>> to give me a large portion of it, >if< I can get it sawn into
>> lumber.  My question is this: is there anyone in the upstate NY
>> (Rochester/Syracuse) area with a portable sawmill (compensation
>> provided in the form of walnut lumber)?  Or does anyone know of
>> a mill in the area who would cut this up for us?
>>
>>---------------------------------------------------------------
>>Chris,
>>Before you spend a lot of time and energy, you better check out
>>the logs closer.  Green logs that are not cut into lumber quickly
>>usually split and check making them good firewood.  This is even
>>more true when the ends are not sealed after the tree is fallen.
>>The logs start drying out from the ends and put tremendous
>>stresses that cause checking.  Too bad you did'nt get a shot at
>>them two years ago.
>>This may be why the sawmills are not interested in the logs.
>>On the other hand, they may be great.  Stranger things have
>>happened....
>
>You might also consider "Woodright Shop" techniques, particularly given
>the short lengths.  I've watched Roy split a log into timbers (and
>experimented with the method a bit myself) using a sledge, iron wedges
>and "gluts".  The iron wedges are used into the end grain to start the
>split.  Lightly pound a wedge in all along the desired split line to
>Once you've divided the log down into more manageable sections, a froe
>is very effective for further controlled splitting.
Problem is most people have never even heard of gluts and froes and 
most of the other 200 year old tools that Roy uses.  And go to your 
local hardware store and try and find some. Ha.  Roy and his
techniques are nice history but I think that the progress that
we have made since 1692 should not be forgotten.  Just because
its old doesn't mean its better.   I would suggest that Chris 
check with the local lumber yards and cabinet shops.  Surely 
one of them can do it or know somewhere that will.
From: hewitt@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Dean Hewitt)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Re: Dream Saw (long)
Date: 20 Nov 92 17:41:29 GMT
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server

I purchased the INCA tablesaw four years ago.  It is the best table saw that I
have used to date.  You will need to get the micro-adjustment attacment for the 
fence if it is not included.  This is a great help in getting very accurate 
cuts.  If you do not have a vac attached to the saw you will need to clean the
sawdust out from the inside on a regular basis.    

I am currently looking into getting the large INCA bandsaw.  Does any one have
any experience with this?

Dean Hewitt
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Woodworking books
Date: 18 Nov 92 18:13:25 GMT
Article-I.D.: hpcvaac.1992Nov18.181325.11863
Distribution: usa
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA

ggibeau@ucqais.cba.uc.edu (George G. Gibeau) writes:
: 
: If anyone is interested I will try to compose a list of the available 
: publications they offer regarding woodworking, along with prices.  I am
: not sure if they do mail sales or not.  This is not a second hand store
: that has 1 copy of this and 1 copy of that.  If they have a title, they have
: a whole stack of them.

I personally, would be very interested. For that matter, if the store has
a list that they mail out, I would like to get their address. My interests
span far more than woodworking.

Bill
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking