HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: mpb@troy.cc.bellcore.com (bunz,marcus p)
Subject: Re: How to cut back my heat bill?
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 92 18:37:54 GMT

In article <1992Nov20.175535.1694@osf.org>, drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas S. Rand) writes:
> In article <1992Nov20.171452.2840@cbfsb.cb.att.com>, disaacs@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (david.e.isaacs) writes:
> |> >|>    My question is, will turning my thermostat back to 60 and keeping
> |> >|> it there save me more money then if I would keep it at 72?  I would think
> |> >|> it would, but the person from the gas company said it wouldn't.  This
> |> >|> doesn't make sense to me for the following reason:
> |> >
> |> >
> |> >A good compromise is to buy a programmable setback thermostat, such as a
> |> >Hunter, and program the night temperature for 5-10 degrees lower, having it
> |> >come back up just before you rise, go back down after you leave for work, and
> |> >come back up before you get home.  You can get them for $40-60 depending on
> |> >features, and they will save you that the first heating season.
> |> >
> |> 
> |> I have heard that it's better to just set your thermostat to 68 (or whatever
> |> temp you like) and leave it.  Someone told me that using daily setbacks is like
> |> changing speeds in a car and is energy inefficient.  I have a programable 
> |> thermostat but only set it back when we are going away for over a day.  Anyone
> |> out there know the "emis" on this is ?
> |> 
> 
> Although Stavros debunked this elsewhere in this thread,  I'll 
> do it here.  The laws of thermodynamics says that the heat loss
> is directly proportional to the temperature delta.  It is never
> more expensive to let the house cool down and reheat.  It is not
> like a car,  the furnace operates at essentially a constant efficiency.
> In fact,  the furnace is probably a bit more efficient in the longer
> runs for reheat,  but doesn't make a big difference.
> 
> -- 
> Douglas S. Rand <drand@osf.org>		OSF/Motif Dev.
> Snail:         11 Cambridge Center,  Cambridge,  MA  02142
> Disclaimer:    I don't know if OSF agrees with me... let's vote on it.
> Amateur Radio: KC1KJ

As with everything, there are exceptions.   If you have a heat pump,
and it is necessary to kick on the resistive heat backup to get
the house warmed up, then you might be better off maintaining
the constant (warm) temperature if that can be done without
resorting to the resistive backup.  The setback also saves energy
by having fewer on-off cycles of the furnace, so there is less
energy wasted in getting the furnace and distribution system up
to temperature.

Marc

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: pjs@euclid.JPL.NASA.GOV (Peter J. Scott)
Subject: Plumbing - what sort of connector do I need?
Reply-To: pjs@euclid.jpl.nasa.gov
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory, NASA/Caltech
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 19:21:57 GMT

My bathroom basin faucet just broke so I bought a new Moen
faucet for it.  It comes with a drain assembly as well
so I'd like to install that also, since my current drain is
a bit rusty.  However, problem: the drain body I currently have
is 1.5" wide but the Moen drain body is 1.25" wide.  So I'm
going to have a gap when I fit it into the trap:

       |     \_______       _______/
       |             |      |
       |             |      |
       |             |      |
       |-------------=      |  <---- drain body
       |             |      |
                     |      |
                    |        |
                    |        | <---- trap
                    |        |
                    |        |

There are no threads on the Moen drain body.  It looks as though it
is supposed to seal with putty in an opening of equal size, but the opening
I have is too big.  This is my first adventure in plumbing, what should
I do?  I talked to Moen but they just mumbled something about finding a
connector, or replace the trap as well.  I'd rather not go that far.


-- 
This is news.  This is your       |    Peter Scott, NASA/JPL/Caltech
brain on news.  Any questions?    |    (pjs@euclid.jpl.nasa.gov)


Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: millerm@oakhill.sps.mot.com (Mikemoe)
Subject: FHA questions
Reply-To: millerm@oakhill.sps.mot.com
Organization: Motorola Semiconductor Products Sector
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 17:40:20 GMT

(I think my previous post didn't make it...)

Question on FHA rules:

Is there a rule prohibiting the seller from paying the origination fee?

The only possible problem I can think of is this: the buyer is not
allowed to have anyone else pay part of the down payment (well, parents
can with a gift letter...). Might this be considered paying the down
payment rather than origination fees?

I originally made a contract on a house where the seller would pay up
to 1 discount points. But, I would rather have the seller pay the 
origination fee (1 point) and let me pay the discount points. THe gain
here is if I elect to choose a rate that has less than 1 point buydown,
I could effectively lower my closing costs. The seller would benefit
because he could move out/close earlier, like he wanted to. 

Is there a problem with this reasoning? Has anyone else done something
similar in an FHA loan?


Thanks,

--Mike

---
+--------------------------------------------------------------+
| Michael Miller   millerm@oakhill.sps.mot.com                 |
| (512) 891-8582   Motorola - Semiconductors  Austin, TX       |
+--------------------------------------------------------------+
| Better not take a dog on the space shuttle, because if he    |
| sticks his head out when you're coming home his face might   |
| burn up.  -- Deep Thoughts by Jack Handey                    |
+--------------------------------------------------------------+

From: stevek@hpfcmgw.FC.HP.COM (Steve Kauder)
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 16:06:46 GMT
Subject: Re: HELP! Skunk keeps attacking my house
Organization: HP Fort Collins, CO
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house

>In misc.consumers.house, stanton@haas.berkeley.edu (Richard Stanton) writes:
>
>    Every few nights, my house stinks of skunk. It seems to start in the bathroom,
>    which has a skylight, so I suspect it's happening on the roof somewhere.
>    However, as most people know, this is a pretty intense smell, and it has a
>    nasty habit of lingering in the house for a day or more.
>
>    What can I do to prevent this from happening? Would the spray that stops
>    dogs and cats peeing where yo don't want them to work? Any suggestions would be
>    VERY gratefully received.
>
>    Thanks
>
>    Richard Stanton

I am not an expert on this, but I have heard that spreading around some
very used kitty litter (i.e., which is fragrant from the cat pee) will
chase away skunks, raccoons, etc.

Several applications may be required.

sk
From: egreen@east.sun.com (Ed Green - Pixel Cruncher)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Re: How to tell a REAL buyer's agent
Date: 18 Nov 1992 15:41:17 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, RTP, NC
Distribution: world
Reply-To: egreen@east.sun.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: laser.east.sun.com

In article 4926@dg-rtp.dg.com, eliot@chutney.rtp.dg.com (Topher Eliot) writes:
>In article <1e8a5tINN6qg@sixgun.East.Sun.COM>, egreen@east.sun.com (Ed Green - Pixel Cruncher) writes:
>|> 
>|> If you want to pick nits, there is no such thing as ANY agent being
>|> paid by the seller, 100% of the RE fees come out of the buyer's pocket,
>|> as they are tacked onto the price of the house.
>
>You can use exactly the same logic to demonstrate that the agents are getting
>paid by the seller, since their fees reduce the amount received by the
>seller.  

You could, you would be stretching it.  In 10 out of 10 cases, the
seller's "real" price is inflated to cover the agents' fees.

>|> The buyer's agent is not working directly for you (although
>|> in most cases is legally obligated to you, which is why RE is such a
>|> racket to begin with).

>I'm getting a little tired of trying to explain the differences between a
>"buyers" agent and a "selling" agent (neither of which is a "listing" agent),
>but I'll try one more time.

I know the difference.  I misused the term buyer's agent above.  I
meant "the agent that furnishes the buyer."  Sorry for the confusion.

>A "buyers" agent is paid by the buyer, and is legally obligated to the buyer,
>NOT THE SELLER.  If an agent is legally obligated to the seller, then they're
>not a "buyers" agent, they're a "selling" or "listing" agent.

True, except that currently, the most common payment arrangement for a
buyer's agent is identical to the case of a selling agent who furnishes
a buyer, ie, they split the listing agent's fee.  As you point out, it
is a matter of perspective as to exactly who is paying whom.

>BTW, I agree that there are "racket" aspects to the RE business.  But that's 
>not the issue here.

Actually, that is the main impetus behind the buyer's agent movement.
Buyers are only beginning to realize that the agent driving them around
every weekend and being oh so helpful in finding that perfect home is
legally obligated to fleece them.


---
Ed Green, former Ninjaite |I was drinking last night with a biker,
  Ed.Green@East.Sun.COM   |and I showed him a picture of you.  I said,
DoD #0111  (919)460-8302  |"Go on, get to know her, you'll like her!"
 (The Grateful Dead) -->  |It seemed like the least I could do...

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: pngai@adobe.com (Phil Ngai)
Subject: DIY blown-in insulation
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 19:42:42 GMT

Last weekend I saw that our local (San Carlos, California) Home Depot
had a new offering: do-it yourself blown-in cellulose insulation.

They had big bags of essentially shredded and chemically treated
newspaper for about $10 each, rated to cover about 77 square feet in a
2x4 stud wall (excluding studs I think) and two machines you could
rent for installing the insulation. The machines were free the first
day and $35 per day after that.

The store wasn't really ready to sell this product yet, there
was no information available and the accessories (plugs and maybe
drill bits) weren't there either, but I eagerly await the
possibility of retrofitting wall insulation into my house for
only $200-300.

As is typical for this operation, the orange apron I talked to
didn't have a clue about this product. He asked me why one would
use blown-in vs fiberglass rolls.

I'll save Chris Lewis the trouble and mention that rock wool is
claimed to have some advantages over cellulose, etc. I suspect
you have to live near a steel mill for it to be economical.
(is this rock wool really steel mill slag?)

If anyone rushes ahead of me to use this product, I'd appreciate
hearing how it works out for you. Otherwise I will post a report.

-- 
My opinions are my own.
From: hwt@bcarh11a.BNR.CA (Henry Troup)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: better mouse trap needed
Date: 17 Nov 92 20:31:45 GMT
Reply-To: Henry.Troup@BNR.CA
Distribution: world
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd., Ottawa, Canada

In article <1992Nov9.193930.9381@b11.b11.ingr.com>, billj@b11.ingr.com
(Bill Johnson)
|>the mice to bleed internally.  This makes them thirsty, and they leave their
|>hiding place in search of water.  By the time they reach the water, they are

It's likely warfarin(tm)-- chemically dicoumarin.  An anticoagulant
poison, to which mice in various places have evolved immunity.
                     
Henry Troup - H.Troup@BNR.CA (Canada) - BNR owns but does not share my opinions
	     Only eleven more shopping days 'till St. Andrew's Day!
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: refinishing hardwood floors
From: gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston)
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 92 17:32:58 CST
Organization: Garys' Home for Obsolete Computers

deleon@hpl.hp.com (Laura de Leon) writes:

> My husband and I recently bought a house with hardwood floors in need of
> refinishing, and we'd like to know what we'll need to do to refinish them.

Congratulations on becoming a homeowner.

Are you sure the floors need refinishing? You might want to thoroughly
clean and wax them first, to see if they really need to be redone. You
might be suprised. (I'm assuming you don't have patches worn through
the existing finish, with bare wood showing...)

> We know we'll need to sand them down, and then put a layer of wax or
> polyurethane or some such thing.  We're also considering taking up the
> carpet in the hall and one of the bedrooms-- what does that involve.

Sanding a floor is a lot of work, which generates a *ton* of sawdust
(which will get everywhere). Once it's sanded, you'll have to put
down some kind of sealing stain or varnish before the wax. Polyurethane
will require at least two coats; three would be better. This is not
a trivial undertaking.

The carpet will probably just roll up once you get the edges free 
(there's probably tack strips around the perimiter). There may be 
residue from the backing (if it's real cheap foam backed carpet,
the backing may come apart, sticking to the floor, which will be 
a real mess to deal with). If it's adhesive-backed squares, it 
will be extremely messy to deal with, unless they happen to peel
up intact. (Never heard of that happening, though....)

> What we'd really like is a book that goes into great detail about what 
> is involved, and the pros and cons of any different approaches.  Any 
> references would be appreciated.

Check the home improvement stores; they should have some on floor
refinishing. I'd consider the clean/wax step first, if it's at 
all reasonable.

Gary Heston, at home....
gary@cdthq.uucp
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: davel@booboo.SanDiego.NCR.COM (David Lord)
Subject: Re: Comments on hand blenders?
Reply-To: davel@booboo.SanDiego.NCR.COM (David Lord)
Organization: NCR Corporation, Rancho Bernardo
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 17:48:25 GMT

In article <1e787cINN49a@agate.berkeley.edu> stanton@haas.berkeley.edu (Richard Stanton) writes:
>I'm considering buying a hand blender, basically a plastic covered motor with
>a blade at the end, which is supposed to be able to chop/puree/blend etc.
>with much less cleanup required than a regular blender or food processor (the
>main reason I almost never use them)
>
>Does anyone have any comments about these? In particular, how useful are they
>for whisking? How do they compare with portable whisks (with 2 balloon whisk
>attachments)? Are they worth buying, and if so, what's a good brand/price.

I have a Braun. At the time I bought it it was the only one on the market,
which means I've had it for a while. I think it's great. If I used it for
nothing else than to mix frozen orange juice it would still be a worthwhile
purchase. Other uses I've had for it: Making smothies (frozen bannanas (sliced),
frozen berries, and apple juice), creaming (pureeing?) homemade split pea soup.

Never tried whisking with it.
From: b_lmcgilve@cpvax.cpses.tu.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: laminate coming off countertop edge
Date: 17 Nov 92 13:24:31 CST
Organization: Texas Utilities, Glen Rose TX 

 In article <1992Nov13.202932.2365@ulysses.att.com> smb@ulysses.att.com (Steven Bellovin) writes:
>The countertops in our kitchen are laminate-coated.  Around the edges,
>though, there's a 45 degree bevel, and a vertical section, all covered
>with the same laminate.  At some of the outside corners, though, the
>laminate is peeling away from the substrate, probably as a result of
>people brushing against it.  What's the best way to glue it back down?

I have a similar problem - on one counter top, the board on the top (flashing?)
has come completely loose from the wall.  It is apparently a piece of 
particleboard with the laminate attached.  I would like to glue it back into
place but...it has warped also.  Clamping is not an option - there is nothing
to clamp it to since it fits into a corner.  Suggestions?

-- 
Laurel McGilvery		Not only do I not speak for the company,
CPSES (temporarily)		the company does not speak for me. 

All opinions expressed are obviously mine.  Who else would own up to them?
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: gls@windmill.ATT.COM (Col. G. L. Sicherman)
Subject: garage opener transmitter
Organization: Save the Dodoes Foundation
Distribution: na
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1992 21:54:16 GMT

When I bought my house 2 years ago, I installed a garage door
opener that was left behind by the sellers, who had bought it
shortly after they bought the house, intending to install it when
they got around to it....

The opener and switch still work fine, but the transmitter is burnt
out.  Being 10 years old, it is no longer being made, and it uses an
obsolete protocol.  Sears Roebuck sells a matching receiver and
transmitter, but the receiver requires an electrical outlet.  My
garage isn't wired; the old receiver was powered by the control line
to the opener.

Having an outlet installed in the garage would be expensive -- can
anybody suggest a cheaper alternative?

-:-
	BOSWELL:  I doubt, Sir, whether there are many happy people here.

	JOHNSON:  Yes, Sir, there are many happy people here.  There are
		many who are watching hundreds, and who think hundreds
		are watching them.

				--James Boswell, _Life of Samuel Johnson_
-- 
Col. G. L. Sicherman
gls@windmill.att.COM
From: egreen@east.sun.com (Ed Green - Pixel Cruncher)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: need advice on cooking range purchase
Date: 17 Nov 1992 14:51:41 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, RTP, NC
Distribution: world
Reply-To: egreen@east.sun.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: laser.east.sun.com

In article 29846@searchtech.com, monica@searchtech.com (Monica Skidmore) writes:
>In article <40527@unix.SRI.COM> cole@unix.SRI.COM (Susan Cole) writes:
>>
>>The downdraft style actual seems desirable from the standpoint of leaving me
>>the wall space above the stove to use, but I wonder if it presents problems
>
>How does a downdraft compare to a normal range hood?  

Smoke rises.  Don't fight Mother Nature.

I have a Jenn Air downdraft range.  It works OK, but does not pull all
the smoke into the vent.  It is noisy.  It seems obvious to me that a
much more powerful (and noiser) fan is necessary to pull smoke down
than to push it sideways.  If/when I redo it, I'll put a hood over the
range and vent the smoke out through the wall (or ceiling, if the range
winds up on an island or in a penninsula).

---
Ed Green, former Ninjaite |I was drinking last night with a biker,
  Ed.Green@East.Sun.COM   |and I showed him a picture of you.  I said,
DoD #0111  (919)460-8302  |"Go on, get to know her, you'll like her!"
 (The Grateful Dead) -->  |It seemed like the least I could do...

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: jeq@i88.isc.com (Jonathan E. Quist)
Subject: Re: Info needed: Once Through Softener
Organization: INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation, Naperville, IL
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 22:28:08 GMT

In article <1erfhlINNekc@uwm.edu> samar@convex.csd.uwm.edu (Samar Mukhopadhyay) writes:
>     We know of the water softeners installed in the basement where the
>     softening process is regenerated by using salt. I heard that there
>     is a smaller version of this, which is fitted to the tap like a
>     filter. No regeneration is done and the filter is thrown away and
>     a new one fitted when used up. Main goal is to soften the water
>     and/or remove iron.
>
>     Is there any such device? I would appreciate knowing more about 
>     this, the makes, and the manufacturers' addresses.

Pollenex sells a "portable softener" for use with their ultrasonic
humidifiers.  It consists of a length of hose with a press-on rubber
fitting to attach to standard faucets, and a small (approx 5" diameter by
5" tall) plastic cylinder containing the ion exchange media bed.

It worked reasonably well with our humidifier (eliminating the need
to add chemicals to remove minerals) but the flow rate through the ion
exchanger is quite low - it takes several minutes to get a gallon.
(We normally only needed to refill every other day, so this wasn't a big
problem.)

If you are considering one of these (at least this particular unit)
for potable water, I would advise against it for two reasons:
	1) The unit is designed to fit over the opening in Pollenex
	humidifiers; using it to collect drinking water would be inconvenient.

	2) A conventional built-in water softener is a closed system,
	and is protected against bacterial growth by chlorination, etc.,
	in the water supply.  The portable unit is open to whatever free
	bacteria may be floating in the air; as such it may be more
	susceptable to bacterial growth.  When I installed our softener,
	which had been sitting unused for several years in our basement,
	all the plumbers I spoke with advised sterilizing it (with a
	strong chlorine bleach solution) prior to placing it
	in service.

(Naturally, if the unit is designed for drinking water, these cautions
 don't apply.)


We found the Pollenex unit at a True Value hardware store; I suspect
other manufacturers make them as well.
-- 
Jonathan E. Quist                              INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation
jeq@i88.isc.com  '71 CL450-K4 "Gleep", DoD #094        Naperville, IL
        There are many things a person should experience in a lifetime.
       Among them are an infant's first cry, and an infant's first laugh.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: linden@adcalc.fnal.gov
Subject: Barking dogs for neighbors
Organization: Fermi National Accelerator Laboratory
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1992 05:38:23 GMT

Is there any thing I can do about nieghbors with barking dogs.
Will the police do anything?
Can they do anything?

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: smjeff@lerc05.lerc.nasa.gov (Jeff Miller)
Subject: Re: home warrantee
Keywords: AHS
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center, Cleveland Ohio
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 15:52:35 GMT

In article <1egnrvINNfqo@newmdata.meaddata.com> davidm@meaddata.com (David Miller) writes:
>I just want to plug AHS (American Home Shield).  The seller of my house
>furnished the policy.  The water heater wasn't working quite right so I
>check the elements, and sure enough, the lower element showed infinite
>resistance.  So, instead of following directions from the net on how to
>replace it, I called AHS.  They had a plumber out in 24 hours to fix it.
>It was easy to get through to them, they were prompt, etc.  Couldn't ask
>for more.  I paid only the $35 deductable to the plumber (I know, the element
>was probably less but I didn't have to do anything this way).
>
>I figured the AHS policy would be pretty useless when I bought the house.  
>I glad I was wrong.
>
>And I'm not connected to AHS in any way.
>
>Dave
>
>
>-- 
>David James Miller                        Architecture&Systems Evolution
>Mead Data Central, B6F3                   (513) 865-7441
>PO Box 933                                davidm@meaddata.com
>Dayton Ohio 45401                         I speak for me, not MDC


I disagree.  In most cases the home warranty is not going to pay for 
itself.  The warranty company is not going to replace something if they
can patch it together so that it lasts until the warranty is over.

Your warranty probably cost you around $250.  So far you have paid $285
to have an old water heater patched together so that it lasts for a few more
months.

This is only my opinion.  In my case I did not get a home warranty and
I don't regret it.  Are there any people out there who actually saved
money by getting a home warranty?  I'm also curious to know if a home
warranty company ever replaced something that broke (like a furnace) or
do they just patch it back together so that it lasts for the duration
of the warranty period.

-- 
Jeffrey H. Miller     smjeff@lerc05.lerc.nasa.gov
Sverdrup Technology, NASA Lewis Research Center Group, Cleveland, Ohio

favorite book title: Attack of the Deranged Mutant Killer Monster Snow Goons