From: u8801863@cs.uow.edu.au (Nigel Brendon Robinson)
Subject: Re: The gnarliest barrell I've ever had + More....(read on)
Organization: Dept of Computer Science, Wollongong University, Australia
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 05:04:12 GMT

g9024557@cc.uow.edu.au (James Phillip ANDREW) writes:

>Nigel writes:

>>Howdy Crewus,

>>Today I got the best tube of my life.
>>Admittedly there haven't been a heap to brag about,but todays barrell
>>took the cake.

>[Tube description at Sharkies]

>>So I surfed the left instead with one other guy.
>>This left made green island(Paul/Lud) inside section look like a cake-walk.
>>You'd paddle for it and it would just jack in such a way that
>>it was as though there was one lip which you tried to ride and one
>>that double sucked under-neath you,so that free fall face plants 
>>became a common occurrence.

>It is a lush wave sharkies. Between there and headlands (300m to the south)
>there is a fair bit of juice. I have had a few decent beatings there myself.


>>The two wave's after my barrell were left's that I got worked on by the double 
>>suck.It's a worrying thing when you sort of free fall and you board stops 
>>and you keep going,cause all you can see is these brown bits of cungee with 
>>the green grass everywhere.You get a really good view of the reef before you 
>>try and implant your body on it from eight foot up.

>It sounds like being in the barrel at Virgins. You can see the bottom, which
>looks like less than 2 feet below you (it probably is) and you pray that
>you can hold your line. Actually if you are at a stage where you can look 
>down you will come out unless you really fuck up. The scarey part is
>when you wipe out on another wave and remember how shallow it is. There
>hasn't been many good waves out there this year since there haven't been
>many direct westerlies or very light winds unfortunately (or fortunately
>depending on how you look at it). 

I'm afraid that's where you're wrong man...there's been quite a few westerlies 
(not the person kind either).That have struck in from inland high pressure's
Also plenty of early morning calmness/tranquility to feel.

Peace man..... HAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.....I'm beginning to sound like
Professor Bear (Ludwig).


See below explanation.

Professor -Because he carries all his info on coastal topology  and
underwater countour maps of the reef break he's about to surf,plus local current 
variation maps.He also carries a copy of aerial phtotgraphs of the 
region....the list goes on,not only does he do all of the above he
make's his own surf-board for the localised conditions on the
safari.
Yoy call him anything if not repaired.
He's the sort of surfing-man you could write a poem about.
A bit like "The man from Snowy River" by Henry Lawson.
Except it should be "The Professor from Bells Beach".

Bear - Because he is like the "bear out of the movie big Wednesday.
In many ways.The guy was probably of a similar age to Ludwig,
he had a bushy beard that stayed flat due to all the salt encrusted
years it was flattened by the wind.


>Jim


Bye ya all,
Don't take offence Lud ok.... :-)
You can pay me out sometime if you like ... such as my falling asleep
at the cinema or almost landing on that girl in a free fall take-off at
Green Island, with my fins down.
She said she dove deep and I didn't land on her though...
Nigel.
-- 
What did the bannana say to the vibrator ?
What are you shaking for, s/he's going to eat me.
What did one petifile say to the other petifile ?
Swap you two fives for a ten.
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