HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: phr@telebit.com (Paul Rubin)
Subject: Re: about 300mmF2.8 and 200mmF2.0
Organization: Telebit Corporation; Sunnyvale, CA, USA
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 05:42:40 GMT

In article <mjg.726816061@antioch.acns.nwu.edu> mjg@nwu.edu (Michael J Graven) writes:

   Phan Huy Lan (phan@boole) writes:

   > If i'm using 200 ASA instead of 100 ASA with
   > those 300mm f/4 or 200mm f/2.8, HEY, 
   > I just got a 300mmF2.8 or 200mmF1.8 !!!!! for not mucho money :-)

   Well ... no.  Your shots will certainly be less expensive.  What
   you'll really miss is the full-aperture focusing at f/2.8 under
   less-than-desirable lighting.  Often times, that one stop will 
   give you the light you need at your retina to determine if you've
   focussed on the subject's eyes -- or his bulbous nose.


More than that.  With the 300/2.8 you can get his eyes in focus
and throw his nose (and the distracting background) *out* of focus.
With the f/4 you'll have more depth of field wide open, which you
might not want.

Anyone know how the "depth control" 135/2.0 AF DC Nikkor works?
From: al@qiclab.scn.rain.com (Alan Peterman)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Olympus XA/XA 2 Opinions Wanted
Date: 6 Jan 93 07:34:05 GMT
Article-I.D.: qiclab.1993Jan6.073405.9302
Organization: SCN Research/Qic Laboratories of Tigard, Oregon.

In article <1993Jan5.192436.10551@bcrka451.bnr.ca> poole@bnr.ca (Thomas Poole) writes:
>
>Has anyone used the Olympus XA or XA 2?  Do you
>have any opinions?  How are the optics?  Can I 
>expect good 8x10s with it?  As I understand it
>is a coupled rangefinder, how is it at focusing?

The XA2 is a cheap version of the XA, and not very usable since you
focus in 3 "zones" and have no control over the exposure..

The XA is quite a nice camera.  Real "split image" rangefinder
focusing (although somewhat hard to see), aperature preferred
auto exposure, and you set the lens aperature.  Lens is sharp
enough for decent 8x10 pictures - not magazine quality but
better than most non-interchangable lens cameras.  RUGGED and
reliable.  I've had several - and won't likely be without
at least one for the foreseable future.  I even tend to keep
a "spare" around, although I never have had a failure, except
due to my stupidity.  Only caveat, and weak point, is the lens
aperature adjustment lever should not be forced.  The linkage
is a "H" shaped piece of metal that can deform and make that
linkage jam.  Luckily it is easy to access and repair.



-- 
Alan L. Peterman                                 (503)-684-1984 hm & work
                       al@qiclab.scn.rain.com
It's odd how as I get older, the days are longer, but the years are shorter!
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: sundaram@notorious.eng.uiowa.edu (Subbiah Sundaram)
Subject: What camera should I buy?
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 03:23:42 GMT
Organization: Department of Elect. and Comp. Engr., University of Iowa, USA.

Hi,
   I am planning to buy a camera. I am looking
at three models Pentax PZ-10, Minolta Maxxum 3xi
and Canon EOS Rebel SII. Which one is best?

   I saw the Photography magazine and enquired
the warehouses about the cost. They seam to be
cheaper than the local market. Is there any 
disadvantage buying in a warehouse? has anyone
had a bad experience with them?

   Do you have any suggestions as to where I 
can buy a good one at a good price.

Thanks,
Subbiah.
From: otto@meaddata.com (Otto Burgess)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: In the dark about enlarger
Date: 10 Jan 1993 19:53:12 GMT
Organization: Mead Data Central, Dayton OH
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: mayberry.meaddata.com

It is time to make a choice I will be living with for
a very long time.  I have been 'looking' at enlargers
for almost a year now.  I am almost set on the new
Saunders LPL 4500 II - some call it XL.  The only thing
new about it is higher light output, higher fan output,
and an offset to the head so that the 20"x24" four 
blade easel can be used on the baseboard.  I was going
to get the VCCE version for B&W printing.  I say I 
have been 'looking', but I have not actually had
my hands on anything other than a 45MXT.  None of
the local photo shops carry the 'big' enlargers.

I have posted notes on this subject before, and I want
to thank all those who responsed.  I asked about the
Saunders enlarger specifically, and several people 
gave it praise, but did not recommend the VCCE head.
I even wrote Bob Shell, of Shutterbug fame, about the
VCCE head after reading one of his articales, and 
determining that he must have one.  I was impressed
his speedy reply.  He did have and use the Saunders
with the VCCE head, and did, in fact like it.  But,
I don't know if I can trust that, coming from someone
that just about endorses Saunders.

The Bessler 45VXL is the state of the art from that
old company.  So too is the Bessler Universal 45 
light source.  They call it light source, I think,
because it can be configured for different 
applications, and upgraded as technology changes.
I would go for the B&W VC version.

Since this enlarger and light source is new, I am
not certain that anyone on the net can give me
any personal experience with it.  Just the same I
am asking????? 

Thanks in advance.

otto

-- 
|Otto Burgess
|(513) 865 - 1024    
|Mead Data Central   
|P.O. Box 933        
|Dayton, Ohio  45401 
| 
|otto@meaddata.com

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: gsm@gsm001.mendelson.com (Geoffrey S. Mendelson)
Subject: Edwal FG7 Development chart
Organization: Mendelson.com
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 17:50:25 GMT

The following is a development chart I use for Edwal FG7. The data is from
their charts and my experimentation. Do not use this information for anything
critical without testing it first as your results may vary.

I develop 35mm film in 320ml (300ml water, 20ml Fg7) and 120/220 film in 
16 ounces (15 water, 1 Fg7) in a Patterson System 4 "Universal" tank. 
I get similar results by using multiple reels in larger tanks. The most I have
done is 5 220 reels at once.

I round the development time up to the next highest minute and normally
use 75 degrees F. as the temperature.

Agitation is done by picking up the tank and "wiggling" it for 5 seconds every
30. I count the time from when I start to pour in, and pour out after the
entire time has elapsed. 

I am not extremly happy with my T-Max results and prefer
Fuji Neopan instead. The Fuji 1600 will produce good 8x10s while TMZ is much
too grainy for my taste.

I must be an old fogey who prefers such films as pantomic-x  or plus-x to
Tmax. Since Tmax came out I shoot a lot more Ilford Pan-f and similar
films.

Geoff.

                   Edwal FG7 (1:15 in water) 
                   Development Time in Minutes
 
                            Temperature in Farenheit

                   65        70        75        80        85
 Film Type

     I             10         8         6         5         4

    II             12        10         8         6         5

    III            14        12        10         8         6

    IV             16        14        12        10         8

     V             18        15        14        12        10

    TMY            17        12        10         8        6

    TMX            17        12        10         8         6

    TMZ            34        24        20        16        12

Film Types:

          Agfa:     25 I, 100 II, 200 III, 400 III, 1000 V

          Adox:     KB14 I, KB17 III, R21 IV

          Fuji:     Neopan 400/1600 II

          Kodak:    Panatomic-X II, High Contrast Copy I, Plus-X II,
                    Tri-X III, Tech-Pan II, 2475 V

          Ilford:   Pan-F I, FP4 III, HP4 IV. HP5 III.

          Orwo:     NP15 I, NP17 III, NP22 IV
-- 
Geoffrey S. Mendelson 
(215) 242-8712
gsm@mendelson.com     or uunet!gsm001!gsm
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: ka1gt@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (robert.m.atkins)
Subject: Flimsy EOS cameras? ( was Re: **Another NEW EOS??**)
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 18:08:16 GMT

In article <1993Jan8.033857.2795@Happy-Man.com>, irving@Happy-Man.com (Irving_Wolfe) writes:
> 
> The A2... are irrelevant; from what I gather, they have the same
> flimsy construction as the 10s, etc., that would certainly be a
> mistake for a pro, even if some careful but active amateurs can get
> away with it.
> 

Exactly what do you think is going to break? I know of several "pros"
who do use a 10s (often as a backup for a 1). In what sense is a 10s
"flimsy"? Are "pros" really that much harder on cameras? Do they drop
them or use them as doorstops? Now there are probably situations where
you want a camera built like a tank, but surely the majority of "pros"
don't in fact work under such conditions.

> It's quite a long time since the EOS-1, and it's far from
> competitive either money-wise or feature-wise today, so a new pro
> camera is actually quite likely.

Let's hope that this time they put a mirror lock up feature in it!

> 
> I'm waiting for it; I have too big an investment in "L" lenses to
> abandon Canon at this point, but their "consumer-grade" cameras
> won't do it for me and they are too dishonest a company to live up
                                  ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
> to their warranty.  The only reason I won't buy a "1" is that I
  ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^  

Care to explain that in a bit more detail???

===============================================================
Bob Atkins  AT&T Bell Labs  email (direct)  att!clockwise!rma
===============================================================
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: phr@telebit.com (Paul Rubin)
Subject: Re: Nikon Handbook (was Re: NIKON F2 Lens selection help)
Organization: Telebit Corporation; Sunnyvale, CA, USA
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 07:26:12 GMT

I second this advice.  It is an excellent book, though clumsily
organized, and it has quite a few errors (more than just one).
The most annoying thing is that all equipt. is presented in chronological
order, so the 28/3.5 and 28/2.8 are dozens of pages apart, etc.
From: al@qiclab.scn.rain.com (Alan Peterman)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Tamron 90/2.5 macro
Date: 4 Jan 93 19:44:20 GMT
Organization: SCN Research/Qic Laboratories of Tigard, Oregon.

In article <1993Jan4.161040.4021@eua.ericsson.se> Harald.Brandt@eua.ericsson.se (Harald Brandt) writes:
>Now I have a question to you: Why are all macro lenses designed with a 
>long 'tube' in front of the front lens? 

The major reason is that you get a very nice, useful macro lens when you
use reversing rings.  On the Nikor55/3.5 for example, the lens is
"extended" 46mm by using a reversing ring which makes getting 1:1 or
more magnification a bit easier.


-- 
Alan L. Peterman                                 (503)-684-1984 hm & work
                       al@qiclab.scn.rain.com
It's odd how as I get older, the days are longer, but the years are shorter!
From: JEFF-G@cup.portal.com (Jeff - Griffin)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: UpDate: Nikkormat 4-Sale
Date: Fri,  8 Jan 93 03:35:32 PST
Organization: The Portal System (TM)

Pre-AI Nikkormat s/n FT2 5195264
Black Body
50mm 2.0 (Nikon) & 28mm 2.8 (Soligor) 
 ^    ^ *not* a 50mm 1.2 as previously posted
Softshell Case & Case for 28mm lens
All manuals included
Best offer over $200. (you pay UPS/COD charges)
 
RSVP Email: JEFF-G@cup.portal.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: poole@bnr.ca (Thomas Poole)
Subject: Olympus Trip 35 Shutter Speed?
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Ottawa, Canada
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 15:58:41 GMT

Can someone tell me the shutter speed of the
Olympus Trip 35?

Please post since e-mail to me bounces and
I have not been able to figure out the
problem.

Thanks.
Tom... 
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: swatko@airbag.enet.dec.com (Mike Swatko)
Subject: Re: Shirt Pocket Cameras
Reply-To: swatko@airbag.enet.dec.com (Mike Swatko)
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation, Nashua, NH
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 21:49:39 GMT

--
In article <1ikso1INN2l8@cronkite.Central.Sun.COM>, doc@webrider.central.sun.com (Steve Bunis) writes:
>In article 2300093@hpgrla.gr.hp.com, peterd@hpgrla.gr.hp.com (Peter Davidoff) writes:
>> Recently I read an article about a 19th century vogue:  cameras in a hat.
>> Yep.  They mounted the entire box and plate in the hat, dropped from the
>> front brim a range finder, and over the ear, on a cord, was the shutter
>> trip.
>> 
>> Seems like a great alternative to the pocket camera, eh?  :)
>
>Now all I have to do is start wearing hats!  Somehow I have to believe 
>that more pictures would be taken of me in that getup than by me.  :^)
>

Sounds just like the thing for all us large format photgraphers who
are continually suffering from "hat head."

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mike Swatko                             !  swatko@airbag.dec.com
Digital Equipment Corporation           !  swatko@airbag.enet.dec.com
Corporate User Publications Engineering !  swatko%airbag@decwrl.dec.com
Nashua, New Hampshire                   !  ...!decwrl!airbag.enet!swatko
===========================================================================
From: diamond@jit533.jit.dec.com (Norman Diamond)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: LOVE MY NEW SB-25
Date: 10 Jan 93 05:04:41 GMT
Reply-To: diamond@jit.dec.com (Norman Diamond)
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation Japan , Tokyo

In article <PD.93Jan9030535@horus.sics.se> pd@sics.se (Per Danielsson) writes:
>In article <C0EvDH.Mw7@jrd.dec.com> diamond@jit533.jit.dec.com (Norman Diamond) writes:
>>In article <1993Jan5.113425.29635@jarvis.csri.toronto.edu> acs@csri.toronto.edu (Alvin Chia-Hua Shih) asks about the Nikon SB-25:
>>>How are the pictures different from those from an SB-24?
>>Faster fill flash, if you use it with an F-90.  (Grrrrrrr.)
>That's a function of the camera, not of the flashgun.

You mean if I buy an F-90, it will give me fill flash at a shutter speed of
1/4000, even with my SB-24 and I don't have to buy an SB-25?  Are you sure?
--
Norman Diamond                diamond@jit.dec.com
If this were the company's opinion, I wouldn't be allowed to post it.
Pardon me?  Or do I have to commit a crime first?
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: ka1gt@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (robert.m.atkins)
Subject: Re: about 300mmF2.8 and 200mmF2.0
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 20:05:41 GMT

In article <1993Jan12.180643.20345@ultb.isc.rit.edu>, ecldco@ultb.isc.rit.edu (E.C. Loyd) writes:
> In article <1993Jan12.155652.10997@Virginia.EDU> krd2b@Virginia.EDU ("Keith R. Donnelly") writes:
> >The 300 2.8 also has the distinct advantage of functioning as a
> >400 f4 with a 1.4x converter - and loses very little in the way
> >of sharpness at that focal length.  A 600 f 5.6 with a 2x
> >converter is nice, and fast enough to use too.  If only I had 2
> >grand to spend to get one...
> >
> 
> All you need to do is get a mirror lens...$100US for a 500mm, and spend
> some change on a 2x converter...$25 or so used.
> 
> That's what I do.  Now, before I get flamed (I know, we don't flame on 
> rec.photo) for this, I REALIZE the inherent dangers of mirror lenses with
> teleconverters, especially those that are doublers.  But, for a 1meter
> lens for $150 (mail order prices), you can't go wrong.
> 

Not a flame, but you should point out that the quality of images taken
with a $100 mirror lens + a $25 converter must be quite poor. Maybe OK
for 3x5 snapshots (if you are lucky), but surely not much else?

> For those really good shots, I use a Tamron 600mm/f4 with my 2x 'verter.
> Gives me usable speed at 1.2meters, which is great for bringing an
> owl down out of his tree.
> 

I have never seen a Tamron 600/4. Is it a very old lens (or a very new
one)? Tamron make a very good 400/4, but I've never seen a 600mm lens
in their line. Maybe a "special" or an non US product?

===============================================================
Bob Atkins  AT&T Bell Labs  email (direct)  att!clockwise!rma
===============================================================
From: zlsiida@fs1.mcc.ac.uk (dave budd)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: T70 buy/sell/bad joke?
Date: 8 Jan 93 12:15:32 GMT
Organization: Manchester Computing Centre

In article <1993Jan7.212313.7953@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> ebraeden@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Eric W Braeden) writes:

>Does anyone remember the Canon T70. I had one 2 years ago that decided

Mine's lovely

>I still have the 50 mm FD1.4 lens and the T70 commandback for it.
>Somebody make me an offer. The lens is in perfect shape and the 
>commandback is unused. The highest reasonable offer gets it.

If it weren't for the shipping charges to the UK........

Maybe the UK ones were OK, I've not heard of any frying themselves.
I got the last one in Manchester, 1/2 price in a sale.  Best buy I've made 
in any field.


        Never believe an experiment until it is confirmed by theory 
    Dave Budd, MCC, Oxford Rd, Manchester, England    (44|0)61-275-6033
From: pd@sics.se (Per Danielsson)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: TTL metering in the Olympus OM-2. (was Re: OTF Metering Inaccuracies)
Date: 9 Jan 93 02:35:37 GMT
Organization: Swedish Institute of Computer Science, Kista

I wrote:
>The TTL AE system on OM-2 and OM-4 reads the light reflected from the
>shutter curtain *and* off the film. It's just that when the shutter
>speeds are low, most of the light will be metered reflected off the
>film, and when the speeds are high most of the light will be metered
>reflected off the curtain.

And in article <5360843@hplsla.hp.com> barryg@hplsla.hp.com (Barry Gunn) wrote:
> ?

It really very simple and ingenious. The camera starts metering when
you release the shutter. It will read the light off the shutter
curtain, and if the light level is high the shutter will start off at
a high speed. The meter isn't satisified with that though. It is
active while the shutter curtains travel over the frame. If the light
level suddenly drops the second curtain will go slower.
So if there is little light to begin with, the second curtain won't
close until enough light has reached the meter cell, which now reads
the light reflected off the film.

This is why you get center weighted metering only when the shutter
speeds are high. (Since the shutter curtains have center weighted
patterns).
--
Per Danielsson				pd@sics.se
Swedish Institute of Computer Science, PO Box 1263, S-164 28 KISTA, SWEDEN
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jake@bony1.bony.com (Jake Livni)
Subject: Re: Blad vs Mamiya (Lenses, Weight, Other)
Organization: The Department of Redundancy Department
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 93 22:43:23 GMT

In article <1icvueINNq2b@flop.ENGR.ORST.EDU> monson@hobo.ECE.ORST.EDU (Ty Monson) writes:
>In article <1icqrtINN968@iraul1.ira.uka.de> uli@i13d5.ira.uka.de (Uli Bodenhausen) writes:

>>It seems to me as if the purchase of Hasselblad equipment can also be seen
>>as an investment. The price of this stuff probably goes up. 

> I don't think it is wise to purchase this equipment thinking that
> you can get your money back unless you are buying used stuff from
> an individual at unusually attractive prices.

In simple terms, if the value of something is most likely to go up,
then the manufacturers and dealers wouldn't sell them; they'd keep
them (and the future profits) for themselves.

I recently found a kook in NY who was offering some used Olympus
lenses for sale at ridiculous prices.  He soon told me that he
regarded his ownership of this glass as "an investment".  The wacky
idea that one might become wealthy by buying up as many baseball
cards / Elvis stamps / camera lenses / used socks as possible is a
peculiarity that Americans are particularly fond of.

-- 
Jake Livni  jake@bony1.bony.com              10 years from now, George Bush will
American-Occupied New York                   have replaced Jimmy Carter as the
My opinions only - employer has no opinions. standard of a failed President.
From: keene@titan.ucc.umass.edu (STEFAN L KEENE)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: NIKON F2 Lens selection help
Date: 9 Jan 1993 14:25:19 -0500
Organization: University of Massachusetts, Amherst
NNTP-Posting-Host: titan.ucc.umass.edu


I currently own a NIKON F2/DP-1 which has been a true friend over
the past year.  I currenly only own a NIKKOR 50mm/f2 and do mainly 
portrait work.  I'm looking to buy a new lens and a corrective eyepiece.
What I am worried about is spending money on a NON-AIS lenses (granted it
would be much cheaper) and then upgrading to a F3HP in a few years.  
I am truly a purist and don't want to upgrade for the aperature and shutter
priority modes.  The reason I even think I may upgrade is that I hear 
the meters in the DP-1 fail and are expensive to replace.  I also wouldn't
mind a spot meter or at least the 90% center weighting in the f3HP.  While I 
love the F2 it is also hard (for me) to find accessories for it.  For example 
I have no clue on how a flash could be mounted (what model etc), let alone 
how to meter for it!  (I mainly use 250/500 Watt floods etc).  

So my first question is if I buy AIS or AI lenses (actually what is the 
difference between the two?  Is it aperature p only for AI and 
aperature/shutter p for AIS?) can I use them without any problems on 
my F2?  What if I buy NON-AIS lenses will they work in "manual mode" 
on other NIKONS?

My second question is what size lens should I buy if I will be doing mainly
potrait work?  I've been mainly thinking about either the 85mmf2 or the 
105mm/f2.5 (can't afford the 85mm/f1.4 or the 105mm/f1.8 right now, but are 
they really that much better?).  

Also does anyone know of any books and where I can order them on the F2?  

Lastly, this may be a bit naive, but am I to assume that with a corrective
eyepiece I will be able to work without my glasses on?

Thanks for you help,
stefan
keene@titan.ucc.umass.edu
From: vernick@sbcs.sunysb.edu (Michael Vernick)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: What 2 Buy? 7xi, PZ-1, 6006, 10S: Help
Date: 8 Jan 93 15:30:35 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: State University of New York at Stony Brook

I have a fun but hard decision to make.  I want to buy a new camera
and the ones I have been investigating are the Canon 10S, Minolta
7xi, Nikon 6006, and Pentax PZ-1.  Each, of course, has its pros
and cons, and I was wondering if anyone has had the same kind
of decision and good spread some insight.  I currently have a Minolta
5000i but want more on camera functionality such as a spot-meter and 
exposure compensation.  The A2, N90, and 8008s are out of my price range.

I've only been reading this group for a short time and haven't 
seen any information or discussion about the PZ-1. Does anyone have
any experiences with it?

Thanks in advance. 
--
Michael Vernick                          vernick@sbcs.sunysb.edu
Dept. Of Computer Science @ SUNY SB      (516)-632-8434
Stony Brook, NY 11794
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: ee_hflo@uxmail.ust.hk (Michael Lo Ho Fung)
Subject: F2AS
Organization: Hong Kong University of Science and Technology
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8]
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 19:41:54 GMT

	Why the Nikon F2AS is so expanive in the second hand market?
What is the feature of F2AS ?



Michael Lo
From: IO80861@MAINE.MAINE.EDU (Damon Kiesow)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Mirror_lock Up with EOS 1
Date: 6 Jan 93 23:32:35 GMT
Organization: University of Maine System

In article <1993Jan6.203331@lprhp3.epfl.ch>, dex@lprhp3.epfl.ch (Christian
Decurnex) says:
>
>Hello,
>
>How the EOS 1 can lock-up mirror ?
>
>Christian Decurnex

    Sorry, it can't. Just curious, what application did you need
    mirror lock-up for?

    Damon Kiesow / IO80861@Maine / 71131,1635 / 207-581-3059
Newsgroups: rec.photo