HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks)
Subject: Re: Chevy small block ID???
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 15:13:25 GMT

In article <1993Jan22.224220.8192@newstand.syr.edu> ravalent@mothra.syr.EDU (Bob Valentine) writes:
>In article <exuptr.718.0@exu.ericsson.se> exuptr@exu.ericsson.se (Sunbird a la 400ci) writes:
>[Chevy I.D. details deleted]
>>I've got a Chevy small block that doesn't have this appendage.  Is there an
>>alternate location for it?  Also, how can I tell I'm not really dealing with 
>>a Pontiac?
>
>    If you can't tell the difference between a Pontiac and a Chevy
>motor, well.....

Well, anymore, GM can't hardly tell the difference. After the embarassment
of Chevy powered Olds of the 70's - the "Chevymobiles" - they mix and match
car bodies to engines built by the different divisions all the time. Now
though, they just have to disclose it to you if you're buying the car new.
 
Ted Brooks
 ______________________________________________________________________
| Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are my own, and do not reflect    |
| those of my employer. Advice is free, but you get what you pay for.  |
|                               ________                               |
|                         _____|  1955  |_______                       |
|                        /      Chevrolet      /                       |
|                       /______  BelAir  _____/                        |
|                              |________|                              |
|______________________________________________________________________|

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: john@iastate.edu (John Hascall)
Subject: Re: GOODYEAR EAGLE GT'S/The Tire Rack -- HELP!
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames, IA
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 03:02:15 GMT

milo@dorm.rutgers.edu (Jim  mielo) writes:
}began@gandalf.ca (Brian Egan) wrote:
}> stansbury-travis@yale.edu (Travis Stansbury) writes:
}> 
}> >I'm in desperate need of help.  I know next to nothing about tires (they
}> >are rubber, right?).  However, I need new ones for my '86 CRX Si, and I
}> >want neither crappy tires nor tremendous expense.  SOOOO... I noticed
}> >that a mail order place called "The Tire Rack" (South Bend, IN) had a
}> >special on Goodyear Eagle GT's in the right size for my car.... $66
}> >(incl shipping).  So, is this a reputable company?  Are these good tires
}> >(they are HR.)?  Could I do better for the money?  
}
}      The Tire Rack is great. Just ordered another pair of tires from them
}today. Thay usually ship them right away so the tires get to you within 5
}days. They also have great prices.

I concur, Tire Rack is great!  Great prices (priced 16" VR Gatorbacks lately
at a Goodyear Store lately? -- yeee-ouch!).  Fast Service (a couple days
here).

John
-- 
John Hascall                   ``An ill-chosen word is the fool's messenger.''
Systems Software Engineer
Project Vincent
Iowa State University Computation Center  +  Ames, IA  50011  +  515/294-9551
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: pburke@vms.macc.wisc.edu (Peter Burke, MIC, 608-263-7744)
Subject: Jeep stuck, frozen puddle, how to free up?
Organization:  University of Wisconsin Academic Computing Center
Distribution:  usa
Date: 26 JAN 93 13:04:28    

My friend got himself stuck in a pretty deep puddle two days ago. In the 
meantime the puddle has turned to solid ice.  Teh front of the vehicle 
is about 15" under water/ice, the rear - well - his 31" tires barely 
stick out of the ice.  The ice is only 1/2" thick, but still enough to 
keep the thing in there.  Yesterday we pulled only very lightly and tore 
his bumper off - oops.  Now: what is a smarter approach?  We are 
thinking of first using a sledgehammer to crush the ice, then pull with 
two trucks.  Is there a smarter approach?  There is no way to get a 
tow-truck near this, by the way.  almost got my Toyota stuck just going 
there....

Any seasoned four-wheelers out there?


Peter Burke                           | PBURKE@MACC.WISC.EDU 
Microcomputer Information Center      | PBURKE@Wiscmacc.BitNet
Madison Academic Computing Center     | 608-263-7744
1210 W. Dayton St., Madison, WI 53706 | 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Steven J Orlin)
Subject: Re: TH350 vs. TH400
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 19:08:45 GMT


In article <1993Jan25.121339.15258@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu> dwsmall@miavx1.acs.mu
ohio.edu (Derek 'Enzo' Small) writes:
>
>Someone asked about a TH700 a while back and no one else offerd anything
>yet so if you're reading... The TH700 is basically an electronically
>controled version of the TH250 but for front wheel drive vehicles.
>

Gee. you sound so convincing I'm almost afraid to say this: When did the
Corvette become a front wheel drive vehicle?

Answers??????
-- 
Orlin.2@osu.edu
From: murthy+@EDRC.CMU.EDU (Sesh Murthy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Cutlass Problems
Keywords: surging, need help
Date: 22 Jan 93 18:30:29 GMT
Article-I.D.: cs.C19q2x.3pv.2
Distribution: usa
Organization: Carnegie Mellon University

In article <1joac7INN5ao@phakt.usc.edu>, kinter@phakt.usc.edu (Ryan Kinter) writes:
|> 	I'm hoping that someone can help me with my problem.  I have
|> an '82 Cutlass with 125M(13M since rebuild) with a 3.8l V6.  Under
|> heavy loads it surges.  

|> 3.8L V6, 3-speed auto, 2.56(or some other low number)rear differential, 
|> carburated(Rochester Dualjet 210), computer controlled
I had the exact same problem with my 3.0 Century.  I solved it by removing 
carbon from the combustion chamber using the thin stream of water down the 
throat of the carburettor method.  

I also had a preheater hose disconnected but that was causing the engine to
run rich.

Try decarbonizing and see what happens.  The carbon causes knocking which
causes the engine to retard under load.

It may also be your EGR valve but I doubt it.

Regards,
Sesh
From: milo@dorm.rutgers.edu (Jim  mielo)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: CRX Lost MPG
Date: 28 Jan 93 04:34:35 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Organization: rutgers university

In article <ofN4C3S00UhW85Pr0b@andrew.cmu.edu>, cd1i+@andrew.cmu.edu
(Christopher Bradley Devlin) wrote:
> 
> Have a 91 CRX w/35K miles, lost 4-6 MPG suddenly and has not returned
> after all relatively simple work done. i.e. plugs, air filter, etc.  Any
> help appreciated.

      could be that new oxygenated gas or could be gremlins

> 
> Please respond to this account
         O.K.?
> 
> Thank you in advance
> 
> Charlie

James Mielo
Rutgers College of Pharmacy '94
milo@dorm.rutgers.edu
 1990 GTi 8v

 Sub Umbra Petri
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sharen@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com (Sharen A. Rund)
Subject: Re: When waxing car, paint comes off.
Organization: Lockheed Missiles and Space Co.
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 93 19:19:13 GMT

In article <1k6d0pINNmdb@elroy.jpl.nasa.gov> ktong@shannon.jpl.nasa.gov (Kevin Tong) writes:
>
>I have a red 87 Honda Prelude.  
>
>Now, when I apply wax with a white wax applicator, the
>applicator has a light red color, indicating paint coming
>off.  The paint still seems like its in good condition,
>but is not "glass" smooth.  BTW I was applying Finish 2001 wax.
>
>What is wrong with the paint?  

nothing - you're taking off oxidization

>Is this normal? 

yes

>If not, what can I do to prevent further deterioration.

keep using the wax and possibly a good rubbing compound in between - both
will help keep down the oxidization and keep your paint looking better &
newer for longer

if you don't do this your paint will eventually get dull and whitish looking

this is what 'detailers' do & get good money for

-- 
________________       __        ________________   "They that can give up
\_________      \     /_ \      /      _________/  essential liberty to 
 \_________      \_____/  \____/      _________/  obtain temporary safety
  \___________________      __________________/  deserve neither liberty 
                     /______\                   nor safety."  
ALL disclaimers apply ....                           --Benjamin Franklin
	  
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ravalent@mothra.syr.EDU (Bob Valentine)
Subject: Re: Poor Economy--318 Mopar
Organization: Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 93 22:53:36 EST

In article <EfLj8cG00X0wQ0lklo@andrew.cmu.edu> J Roland Defilippi <jd1y+@andrew.cmu.edu> writes:
>I am looking for suggestions for solutions to poor economy in an 87
>Dodge Diplomat 318 2bbl.  
  [engine death details deleted]
  [87 cop 318 replaced with :

>At any rate, the engine is a 1983 with 80,k mi, and a Holly Economaster
>Lean Burn carb.  The ignition system has been converted back to
>breaker points after the computer started acting up.  

   You ARE joking right?  When the motor was swapped, the 4bbl intake,
carb, and ignition should have been put in the "new" motor.   
So now you have a computer carb with a P&C ignition? Jeeeez, who did
this motor swap, Sears? 
   At least if the computer was acting up, you should have replaced
the computer distributor with a vaccum advance electronic.  

>Currently
>the car gets 12-13mpg highway, less in the city.  The 4bbl motor
>got15-16mpg highway.  The cat converters have 150,k mi on them,
>but in a recent emissions test the results were 0.13% CO, 61 PPM HC.
>Any serious suggestions would be appreciated.  Past 318's that I have owned
>have gotten up to 24 mpg.  I would expect at least 18-20 out of this one.
 
    Strangely, most 318's seem to do shitty on gas.  Either completly
dump the computer ignition, and replace it with a vaccum advance dist.
and non-comp. carb, or put all of the CORRECT parts from the dead 87
motor back on this one.  Then, everything should work fine.  Really,
get rid of those points!

>Thanks for your time
>
>--Roland
>
>jd1y+@andrew.cmu.edu
                      -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                  --> ravalent@mailbox.syr.edu <--  


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rjbaucom@eos.ncsu.edu (RYAN JEFFREY BAUCOM)
Subject: Can't start my '69 Oldsmobile... HELP!!!
Originator: rjbaucom@c00013-118dan.eos.ncsu.edu
Reply-To: rjbaucom@eos.ncsu.edu (RYAN JEFFREY BAUCOM)
Organization: North Carolina State University Nuclear Weapon Testing Facility
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 19:06:15 GMT


	Anyone with experience starting stubborn engines, please help me out;
my '69 Olds Delta 88 will not start!  It hasn't started since late November,
in fact.  I had been driving it regularly since July.  One day, I tried to
start, got a few sputters, but no good.  After 10 minutes of trying, the
battery had died.
	Electricity isn't the problem, though.  I've tried multiple times to
start.  Here's what I've determined:

BTW: the engine is a 455, 2-bbl carb, auto trans, air conditioning.

	All spark plugs are good, carb (& accel pump) works fine.  Fuel
pump fine.  Distributor is fine.  However, there's no (or very little) vacuum.
You can put your hand on the exhaust pipe and feel it sucking & blowing while
you turn the engine over.
	I concluded from this that one or more valves are stuck open.  Next, I
pulled the plugs.  Then, putting a finger over each plug hole while turning
the engine, felt which ones were blowing and which weren't: all felt about the
same except #6.  I don't (yet) have any equipment to test the compression.
	Next, I removed the valve covers.  I watched all the valve springs &
pushrods move while cranking.  Everything looked fine to me.  I didn't see
anything sticking.

	My current hypothesis: there's some small blockage at one (or more)
of the valve openings, so it (or they) can't shut completely.  My question is,
how do I remove such blockage without opening up the whole engine?  Also, why
would (presumably) one valve prevent the engine from starting?

	I need to get this car running without going into the head, manifolds,
etc.  I simply don't have the time (or money, or knowledge) to do it.  Even
though it's a beautiful car that's given great service for many years (my uncle
owned it before me), it just isn't worth the price of rebuilding.  (I love the
car, but I don't think I could get any money for it, even if it were running.)

	That's the end of the story.  Please, I'm open to ideas and suggestions.
I've put many new parts on this car, and I don't want to waste my investment!
Thanks.


	A starving college student, amateur mechanic & car lover,
	Ryan Baucom (rjbaucom@eos.ncsu.edu)
-- 

 _ _________________________________________________________
(_)_________________________________________________________)
  | Ryan J. Baucom             Junior : Computer Engineering|
  | rjbaucom@eos.ncsu.edu    North Carolina State University|
  |                                                         |
  |   "I've suffered for my music, now it's your turn!"     |
  |                                             -Neil Innes |
  |_________________________________________________________|
  (_)________________________________________________________)
From: chrisp@regenmeister.Sun.COM (Chris Prael)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Oxygenated Gasoline and Low MPG (super unleaded?)
Date: 25 Jan 1993 19:28:55 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems Inc., Mountain View, CA
NNTP-Posting-Host: regenmeister

Nice work getting all the data.  I had a similar experience doing a
round trip from the Bay Area to Vancouver, B.C. and back.  I would
suggest that you write any local newspapers.  If you are a resident of
the state you are living in (since you are Navy), write your governor,
state legislator, and state senator.  It also can't hurt to write to
your congress-person and your U.S. senator.  

These frauds don't hold up so well when they get exposed to the light of
day.

Chris Prael

From article <30129@oasys.dt.navy.mil>, by bense@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ron Bense):
> OK. Here are some figures to support the "low mileage" of oxygenated
> gas regardless of that "winter effect". I drove to Columbus, OH from
> Wash., DC this past weekend, and have been using oxygenated gas exclusively
> for the last several months, so when I started this trip, it was all
> oxygenated. I drive a Celica turbo alltrack, which requires (recommended
> anyway) 91+ octane gas. It had 87k on the odometer, and has had the
> O2 sensor replaced recently and is in fairly good working order.
> 
> The gas tank holds 15.9 gallons, according to the manuals, of which
> 13.9 is about the max. usable volume. (This is important to show the
> effects of the diluted oxygenated gas I experienced on the trip.)
> 
> All driving was pretty much highway, with some small portion of each
> tank being city driving (<30 miles).
> 
> 1st tank, 20.6 mpg - 241 miles, 11.7 gallons on fill-up, 100% oxygenated gas.
>     driving was two 40 mile highway segments, w/ cool down of engine,
>     and then continuous driving at about 65 mph.
> 
> 2nd tank, 22.2 mpg - 251 miles, 11.3 gallons on fill-up, 26% oxy gas.
>     driving was ~65 highway, with a 30 mile stretch of mountain driving
>     to get to ski resort. (downhill was icy conditions - slow)
> 
> 3rd tank, 24.2 mpg - 261 miles, 10.8 gallons on fill-up, 7.6% oxy gas.
>     driving was ~65-70 highway, with 30-40 miles driven in Colombus.
>     There were cool-down segments in Col.
> 
> 4th tank, 26.5 mpg - 239 miles, 9.0 gallons on fill-up, assume non-oxy gas.
>     continuous driving at 75-80, through the mountains.
> 
> It's pretty obvious that oxy gas is the culprit, as even driving at
> higher speeds through mountainous terrain caused oxy gas to cut almost
> 25% off my mpg. Anybody know who we can write to to cancel this idiotic
> approach to pollution control?
> 
> Ron
> 
> PS - the 26.5 mpg figure was a bit of a surprise, since the best previous
> recorded mpg for highway driving was a little under 26 mpg, but this
> was also the first time I did a continous drive at speed with only one
> stop (bathroom:) before filling up.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rick@posms.cactus.org (Rick Kirchhof)
Subject: Re: Diacom ECM Software Review
Organization: Department of Redundancy Dept., Austin
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 02:54:18 GMT

In article <1993Jan18.123550.1@skyler.mavd.honeywell.com> mellum@skyler.mavd.honeywell.com writes:
>In article <1993Jan15.231130.6345@osf.org>, kenny@osf.org (Kenneth Crudup) writes:
>> I understand that Ford, 10 years late, now has an ECM that does spit out
>> realtime data, but it's only for 92-up cars. If it was an earlier model
>> than that, he is mistaken.
>> 
>If that's true then why does OTC provide a hookup for the EEC-IV with their
>hand held scanners? As far as I know it is possible to use scan tools on almost
>all of the major manufacturers vehicles. I've seen s/w and connectors for: the
>big 3, Nissan, and Toyota. I'm sure scanners exist for all.
>
>Ron
>mellum@skyler.mavd.honeywell.com

OTC, Snap On, and others all produce "scan tools" for a similar purpose:
to get data from the computer control system.  In most cars, there are
other functions available as well.  You can request the computer system
test its actuators, use backup or limp home fuel mode, blink the check
engine light for various purposes, and so on.

In the case of GM and Chrysler, data consists of trouble codes a serial
sensor data stream, and the ability to issue commands from the scan tool 
to the computer.  Ford _until very recently_ only issued computer trouble 
codes through this data interface.  New Fords in most product lines, have 
a sensor data stream as well.

In European and Asian imports, different years, and different
manufacturers can have proprietary, documented, or no data link.  For
several years, proprietary data of some sort has been available, but was
of little or no use to repair shops otther than the dealer  Lately, more 
of the models are using documented data links and the scan tools, if
properly equipped, offer information on that system.  As with domestics,
different levels of info are available.

-- 

**** Please note new address ****

Rick Kirchhof   Austin, Texas                   | Experience is what you
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Chevy small block ID???
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 25 Jan 93 14:36:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> Well, anymore, GM can't hardly tell the difference. After the
-> embarassment of Chevy powered Olds of the 70's - the "Chevymobiles" -
-> they mix and match car bodies to engines built by the different
-> divisions all the time. Now though, they just have to disclose it to
-> you if you're buying the car new.

 I always thought that whole mess was a waste of time.  As long as the
dealer services the car it doesn't make a damned bit of difference.  And
if the buyer can't tell the difference between a Chevy and an Olds by
lifting the hood (which I assume anyone laying out $14,000 would do)
then they're not likely to have a worthwhile opinion of the pros or cons
of one engine vs. the other.

 BTW, nobody seemed to get annoyed when, during the same model years,
they could lift the hood of their new Chrysler and see "Volkswagen" on
the engine.  New Dodge truck buyers seem to get positively elated when
they pop the hood and see "Cummins".  Ford fans also seem to respond
positively to "Yamaha" cast into certain engines.

 I could just see some Chevy owner taking his new Vega back to the
dealer.  "I wanted a CHEVY engine in this-here car!  What's this
"Cosworth" stuff, and who stole my carburetor anyway?"  Or a Corvette
owner demanding the dealer INSTANTLY remove that weird Mercury Marine
engine from his ZR-1 and put in the good ol' CHEVY 350 he'd paid for...

=======================================================================
  and as we wind on down the road / our shadows taller than our souls
   there goes a lady we all know / are we to rock, and not to roll?
=======================================================================
(Led Zeppelin)           XJ900 TURBO at 15psi          DoD# 978  KotFAQ
=======================================================================
                                                                              
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: brad_lange@chdqm1.sps.mot.com (Brad Lange)
Subject: Re: Fan belt falls off
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Organization: Motorola inc.
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 15:23:23 GMT

As a followup to my original request, I would like to thank everyone that
responded. 

I found the problem after checking all the pulleys. Apparently the air pump
bracket had two bolts broken off the bottom which allowed the air pump to
tilt out about a half inch and bring the pully out of alignment. It wasn't
that obvious from a casual inspection. It required the standard grubbing
around on a dirty floor to see the problem.

Looks like I will be spending this weekend removing two bolts with the
heads broken off to fix this problem. I don't know where the saying
"weekends were made for Michelob" came from. I really think they were made
for repairing cars.

Brad
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: poeti970@Armstrong.EDU (Lebeshantur)
Subject: Firebird appraisal
Summary: How much iis it worth 
Keywords: 1978 Formula Firebird appraisal
Organization: Armstrong State College, Savannah, GA
Distribution: worldwide
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 04:25:23 GMT


	Hi folks,

	I know of a 78 firebird formula for sale with the original engine
(350 cubic inch) it seems to be in 80% restored condition any ideas on 
what the car is worth? Thanks in advance.

						Tim Poe

 


-- 
===============================================================================
= Love your enemies: they'll go crazy trying to figure out what you're up to.=
=                   Tim Poe  poeti970@pirates.armstrong.edu.                 = =
===============================================================================
Posted-Date: Tue, 26 Jan 93 07:56:54 -0600
Received-Date: Tue, 26 Jan 93 07:57:40 CST
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 93 07:56:54 -0600
From: Matt Rein #3 <mrein3@cfsmo.honeywell.com>
To: rec.autos.tech
Subject: CRX Lost MPG oxy gas
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Organization: mailEnteringNews at Honeywell SRC

> 
> Have a 91 CRX w/35K miles, lost 4-6 MPG suddenly and has not returned
> after all relatively simple work done. i.e. plugs, air filter, etc.  Any
> help appreciated.
> 
> Please respond to this account
> 
> Thank you in advance
> 
> Charlie
> 

Don't worry, it is winter time and your MPG should show it.  My friend
bought a 91 CRX before last winter.  He thought he had problems also when
his MPG fell off last winter.  You are lucky, his drops off 10-15 MPG
this time of year.  (He warms up his car quite a bit)

Wait for March or April, that will cure it.

My Tempo mileage fell from 30 MPG to 22 with the winter/oxygenated gasoline
combination.  I do hope that that bad gas cuts pollution by more than 25%.
(Which is the amount of extra fuel I use this time of year).

January 31st is the last day they have to sell the crap around here!

--
- Matt Rein
- mrein3@hp370d.cfsmo.honeywell.com
From: sheriffp@Software.Mitel.COM (Peter Sheriff)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Reducing the vaccum to the ingnition advance unit.
Date: 27 Jan 93 18:13:33 GMT
Organization: Mitel. Kanata (Ontario). Canada.


     Why not just retard the timing a degree or so until the pinging 
just goes away? As long as you don't have to retard too far, this sounds
easier than trying to kluge a fix like you are suggesting.

                              Pete