HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: shadow@pro-haven.cts.com (Blaine Hufnagle)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: HP on a 305 (was re: swapping differential)
Date: 28 Sep 92 07:43:47 GMT
Organization: ProLine [pro-haven] - Pariahs' Haven BBS, 409/693-8262, 9600-300

In <1992Sep28.023533.25545@sol.UVic.CA>
atovorni@engr.UVic.CA (Andreas  Tovornik) writes:
% >Many of those GM 305's are only rated at 145 hp at best.  It IS pretty sad...
%   
% AT BEST??
% 
% How come mine rates 215 hp SAE NET? Your average 305 rates about 170 hp
% with TBI. The TPI version in my '87 Firebird is rated at 215. GM has a dual
% exhaust kit with two catalytic converters which boosts that figure to about
% 230-235 SAE NET.

This is on very late model 5.0's that are running about 9.5:1 compression
stock, and also have either TBI or TPI.  

% I have never heard of a 305 rated at 145 hp. The two-barrel early eighties
% 267 was rated at about 145.

The 305 in my '79 truck is rated at 140HP @ 4200 RPM SAE net HP.  (Chilton's
Chevy truck manual, circa 1986, pg 92.)

The next year, ('80) SAE net HP drops to 135@4200 RPM.

These engines are running 8.4:1 compression, 287CFM Rochester Dual-Jet carbs,
1.72 intake valves, and a cam that runs only .244 intake and .266 exhaust
lift.  These engines REEK of emissions control strangulation. It has a fair 
amount of low-end torque, but (with the stock carb) once you get past about 
2500-2800 RPM, it tends to really start showing that it is breathing through
a soda straw.  Change to a good 4-bbl (I'm using a Rochester 850 Q-jet) and 
you'll notice some *DISTINCT* improvment, especially above 2800 RPM.

-blaine

-blaine   a.k.a. The Midnight Shadow    |  1979 Chevy Urban Assault Vehicle
Texas Aggie Bus Driver and proud of it! |  1982 Thomas Transit Liner bus
Another Bodybuilder from HELL!!         |  1982 Yamaha Vision   DoD #7192
        "Mine is not to wonder why, Mine is but to look and cry....."

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rmorrow@afit.af.mil (Robert K Morrow)
Subject: Re: Fuel Injection Question
Organization: Air Force Institute of Technology
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 20:49:46 GMT

In article <BvI590.MML@news.cso.uiuc.edu> tmkk@uiuc.edu (Khan) writes:
>
>In article <92275.78610.J066610@LMSC5.IS.LMSC.LOCKHEED.COM> J066610@LMSC5.IS.LMSC.LOCKHEED.COM writes:
>>Does anyone out there know if there is the equivalent of a choke (cold
>>start vavle ???) for fuel injected cars?
>
>Yeah; it's called your engine computer. The computer has complete
>control over your air/fuel ratio. It decides this using the inputs of
etc.

A bit of additional info: my Camry has a "cold start valve" which is
activated when the coolant temp is below a certain value to provide
additional fuel in the intake manifold.  The service manual shows
how to check it.

Bob Morrow
From: vreality@hale.cts.com (Vreality)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: re: DOHC in a V8 Possible?
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 92 23:40:21 PDT
Organization: Hale Telecommunications San Diego CA

In article <1992Sep23.004911.18189@ultb.isc.rit.edu>, 
ajb8886@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
 writes:
> In article <1992Sep21.155514.24743@news.cs.brandeis.edu>, 
andyh@chaos.cs.brand
eis.edu (Andrew J. Huang) writes:
> >Many DOHC V8s, but few american ones.
> >
> >Maserati, Ferrari, Mercedes, Rolls-Royces (?), Porsche 928,
[more]
 
> >Lamborghini, etc.  That is, anybody worth half a damn ( :-), flame 
bait
> >of course!)
> >
> >-andy
>
> I see you're forgetting the American-and-Damn-Proud-of-it
> Carrol Shelby's Dodge Viper, and Chevy's Corvette ZR1.
>
> Of course, the viper is technically a DOHC V10,
The Viper isn't doesn't even have OHC much less DOHC. The ZR1 powerplant 
almost doesn't qualify as an American engine since it was thought up by 
designers at Group Lotus. The other, unmentioned engine is GM's Northstar 
engine which is the ONLY DOHC American V8 currently in production. I 
beleive this engine is in some production Cadillac's.

HALE TELECOMMUNICATIONS - Public Access Node, San Diego CA 619/660-6734 HST
vreality@hale.cts.com (Vreality)   25-Sep-92 at 11:43p
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: naiming@eng.umd.edu (Naiming Shen)
Subject: Any harm if I put too much engine oil?
Date: Mon, 05 Oct 92 15:01:44 GMT
Organization: Electrical Engineering, University of Maryland


I changed the engine oil yesterday for my Honda. It suppose to take
3.7 quarters. So I poured 3 and half bottle of oil in. When I checked
the stick, It was about half an inch above the upper limit mark.
I'm wondering any harm can be done by this? 
thanks in advance.

Naiming,
From: dye@i88.isc.com (Ken R. Dye )
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: DOHC on a V8 possible?
Date: 30 Sep 92 23:44:17 GMT
Organization: INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation, Naperville, IL

In article <58.88.uupcb@chaos.lrk.ar.us> dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)  writes:
>
>-> Dual overhead cam,  multi valve engines have been around for over
>-> half a century.  It amazes me that anyone still tries to fool the
>-> public with old pushrod 2 valve heads.
>
> For most purposes, pushrod 2-valve heads do just fine.  Doubling the
>number of valves, doubling or quadrupling the number of cams, and
>lengthening the cam chain by two to five feet adds weight, friction, and
>complexity, all to the detriment of price and (more important)
>reliability.

	Not to mention killing low-end torque.  I can't imagine
drivine one of those new Acuras...a pretty big car with a whopping
112 ft-lbs of torque.  Ya, sure, it has ~180 HP, but who drives
at 8000 RPM?

> Overhead cams are nice, but once you add rockers and hydraulic lash
>adjusters the optimal solution is to ditch that long whippy chain and
>its service problems and go to ten bucks' worth of pushrods.

	I have no problems with manual lash adjusters or long 
chains...would hate to replace a belt every 30K or so, though.

--Ken
-- 
Ken R. Dye				an optimist is a guy		 |
Interactive Systems Corp., Chicago	that has never had		 | 
(800) LAI-UNIX x341			much experience			 |
dye@i88.isc.comm						archy	 |
From: thos@suite.sw.oz.au (Thomas Cohen)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: DOHC on a V8 possible?
Date: 29 Sep 92 21:43:54 GMT
Organization: Softway Pty Ltd

In <35.88.uupcb@chaos.lrk.ar.us> dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)  writes:

>available and Federalized.  For that matter, if Chevy could get the 454
>through the EGA's sniff test, Chrysler could have got the 440 through.

If the 454 could get through, could the 426?

regards,
-- 
thos cohen  				       |Softway Pty Ltd
 The best way to make a Japanese engineer wince|ACSnet:         thos@softway.oz
 is (when talking about an NSX) to say slowly  |UUCP: ...!uunet!softway.oz!thos
 'but its _not a Ferrari_ is it?' R.Bulgin, CAR|Internet:    thos@softway.oz.au
From: shinn@sunbolt.DAB.GE.COM (Steve Shinn)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Wax Removal
Date: 6 Oct 92 16:28:56 GMT
Organization: General Electric SCSD, Daytona Beach FL

In article <1992Oct1.005129.18636@ultb.isc.rit.edu>, awm5440@ritvax.isc.rit.edu writes:
> The easiest way to remove wax is fairly simple.
> Just go wherever you buy the wax that you use
> and they should have a product called "rubbing 
> compound". A myriad of companies make the stuff,

Yikes!  No.  If all you want to do is remove the wax, use a wax
cleaner/remover.  You should be able to find some in a good auto paint
store.  I've been pleased with the 3M brand that I have.

Rubbing compound is an abrasive that will remove paint (good or bad) as
well as wax.  Furthermore, it (usually) only removes the wax by wearing
it off the surface.  If you have ever waxed the car with a silicone
compound, you need to use the cleaner to remove the silicone.

Also, most rubbing compounds that I've used contain oils which also
need to be removed before painting.  The aforementioned cleaner will
remove the oil too.

	- Stevie Wonder
-- 
Steve Allen-Shinn	shinn@helios.dab.ge.com
GE Aerospace, SCSD	Daytona Beach, Fla.
From: sadler@carina.unm.edu (Joe Sadler)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Diagnostic Link pin-out needed
Date: 6 Oct 92 23:01:36 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of New Mexico, Albuquerque


I have an '83 Chevy Z-28 that has the GM diagnostic test port located
under the dash.  I've apparantly logged an engine fault, but I need
the pinout for the test port to read it back.  (I don't have a shop
manual for this car yet).  Anybody know which is the test pin?

Please respond via e-mail.

Joe Sadler
sadler@carina.unm.edu
From: dtn@po.CWRU.Edu (Donald T. Noda)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Auto electronics
Date: 1 Oct 1992 15:34:40 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


	I'm a gadget and electronics junkie. I want to know what
kind of things I coul dinstall in my car.  For example, digital
dash to replace my analog which only has fuel and speedometer and
a slew of idiot lights.  I want gagues!!!!  I have seen analog
for sale but what I would want is a compact, calibrated single
unit of gagues.  Any other cool stuff would be nice too.  I am
open to suggestions and creativity.  Also I would need to know
where to get the stuff, how to build it if necessary.  Anyone
want to create something?   

		Thanks!!
		 Don
-- 
           __    _______       _        |
      ----/  \  /__  __/  /\  / /------ |216-754-1981
    -----/ /\ \   / /    / /\/ /-----   |dtn@cwns4.ins.cwru.edu
 ------/_____/  /_/    /_/  \/----      |   
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty)
Subject: Re: PTFE (Teflon) Additives
Organization: New York State Institute for Sebastian Cabot Studies
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 23:14:42 GMT

In article <1992Sep30.143335.24856@wuecl.wustl.edu> anbo@wuee1.wustl.edu (Albrecht Jander) writes:
>As long as there isn't a clear and concise article in the FAQ regarding 
>this particular question, people will continue to ask!!  So, one of you
>guys who gets all worked up when someone asks about T____n should write
>up a nice article on the (presumed) pros and cons of such additives and
>have it put in the FAQ.  After all, if you had doubts about putting some
>gee-whiz product in your oil, where would you turn to for enlightenment?

if anyone can manage to write a paragraph about PTFE additives that
doesn't tend to _cause_ flame wars, i'll put in in the FAQ.  otherwise,
stopyerbitching.

richard
-- 
richard welty                            518-393-7228
welty@cabot.balltown.cma.com
  ``if you can read this, mario, you're too close''
    -- bumper sticker seen on a CART safety truck
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: DOHC on a V8 possible?
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 1 Oct 92 23:59:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> You can get a distorted view of things by taking the automotive press
-> at their word. Ink under the fingernails is a poor substitute for
-> grease.

 Personally, I think Automobile and Motor Trend are AIDS carriers, but
people like the pretty pictures or something.


 Remember the good old days when car magazines were written by
motorheads instead of journalists?  Just wait until Performance
Engineering hits the stands!
From: gds@cbnewsi.cb.att.com (glenn.d.strouse)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: AUDI 4000 ELECTRICAL PROBLEM
Date: 30 Sep 92 18:32:07 GMT
Article-I.D.: cbnewsi.1992Sep30.183207.14504
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T



I am having a strange electrical problem with my 82' Audi 4000. There seems 
to be a short between the turn signals and the intermittent wiper position.
These are on two completely different stalks. My problem is when I sometimes
turn on the turn signal, the wipers will come on. And the bigger problem is
when the intermittent wiper does not work, neither will the turn signal. 
  
  I am not familiar  with the electrical  system on this car. So any advice 
would be appreciated.

glenn
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hsd@swl.msd.ray.com (HERBERT DASILVA)
Subject: Re: Cracked Head Chrysler/Mitsubishi 2.2l
Organization: Raytheon Company, Tewksbury, MA
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 17:02:06 GMT

brein@gpvax.jpl.nasa.gov (Barry Rein) writes:

>I have an 1987 Plymouth Sundance with the Mitsubishi 2.2 liter Turbo. 

  Actually, the 2.2l is a Chrysler engine...

>Intermittently for the past year when it gets hot the car has been running
>rough then stalling.

>It seems there is a cylinder head problem--bubbles in the radiator.

>When I took it to my mechanic he said it's one of two things, either a
>blown head gasket, or a cracked cylinder head.  If it's the gasket it'll
>cost about $500, but if the head is cracked it will have to be replaced to
>the tune of $1000.  It's an aluminum head, and he claims it cannot be
>repaired by heliarcing.

  The block is iron and the head is aluminum, and when you regularly run
  this engine hot, it will blow the gasket.  I have NEVER heard of these
  heads cracking, and it is ultra-rare for one to even warp.

>I thought cracked cylinder heads could be repaired.  Has anyone else had
>cylinder head problems with this engine?  If so, what was done, and what
>did it cost?

  Iron heads can be repaired by weld filling, aluminum heads really can't.
  I seriously doubt this is your problem anyway.

  My wife tossed a gasket after she ran the motor out of coolant. :-(
  It had been slowly losing coolant (though I never did figure out where it
  was going), and I had checked it at the last oil change, but...

  Anyway, it was under warranty, so the dealership fixed it, all we paid
  was the fairly meager deductible.  In the process, they also fixed the
  leak.  It would have cost us about $400 otherwise.  $500 sounds a little
  high, call around for prices (even try a dealership if there's one you
  trust, although their rate is higher, a good one will work more quickly
  since they know the engine well...)

  The bottom line is 2.2 turbos don't tend to have head problems pe se, but
  do tend to eat head gaskets if they are constantly run overly hot, but
  this is the case with just about any mixed-metal engine.  (for others who
  may be reading this -) The best way to prevent problems is to change the
  coolant every two years, and watch the needle, if runs hot even with new
  coolant, it's probably time for a thermostat (or at least a proper
  diagnostic).

>*       Barry Rein                       *

	Herb "Mopar Maniac" DaSilva
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Tires : Slicks vs. Treaded: Help Please
Date: 6 Oct 92 19:52:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> My friend and I are having a debate.  Consider that it is a clear and
-> sunny day. Which tire would give you more traction?  A slick or a
-> treaded tire?

 Assuming you're running on pavement or clay, the slick will usually
be optimal.  For any sort of racing where there's mixed surfaces (some
rally work, for example) the treaded tire will usually be more useful.

 Some drivers prefer treaded tires over slicks whenever there's not a
crippling performance penalty.  Slicks typically have a very narrow
breakaway curve - that is, they suddenly "let go" without warning,
forcing the driver to operate well under the tire's capability.  Treaded
tires typically are much more forgiving.

 Back when we ran Monzilla we ran slicks on tight courses and treaded
tires on open courses.  At 3400 pounds, 400-odd hp, and full competition
suspension, driving on slicks was like herding an elephant on roller
skates.  On the faster courses, it was far too easy to get into serious
trouble.
                                                                                                                     
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: fs@cs.tulane.edu (Frank Silbermann)
Subject: Re: PTFE (Teflon) Additives
Nntp-Posting-Host-[nntpd-13539]: caesar
Organization: Computer Science Dept., Tulane Univ., New Orleans, LA
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 22:09:22 GMT



>if anyone can manage to write a paragraph about PTFE additives that
>doesn't tend to _cause_ flame wars, i'll put in in the FAQ.  otherwise,
>stopyerbitching.

What I cannot understand is why all we seem to do
is to throw uninformed opinions back and forth.

Slick 50 makes some pretty concrete claims -- why can't they be tested?

The manufacturer claims that the product has stood up to objective
scientific tests.  Why cannot someone comment on the test results,
or the rigor with which the tests were done?

Why don't we have anything better than hearsay to rely on?

		fs@cs.tulane.edu
Organization: University of Illinois at Chicago
Date: Tuesday, 29 Sep 1992 01:33:31 CDT
From: <U30943@uicvm.uic.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 73 Mustang and new 302
Distribution: world

A flywheel from an older ford cannot be used with a late model 5.0
  doing so can damage the engine . This is because they are balanced
  differently .
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: gold@imp.sim.es.com (Bruce Gold)
Subject: Re: What is in "engine flush"?
Keywords: oil flush kerosene break-in
Organization: Evans & Sutherland Computer Corp., Salt Lake City, UT
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 23:53:08 GMT

In article <1992Sep29.154629.10387@gvl.unisys.com>, (Pete Rossi) writes:
|> What is in this stuff sold in 1 quart cans for $1.98 labeled as "engine flush"?
|> 
|> I had heard that it is similar to kerosene.  Could a quart of kerosene
|> (costing about 25 cents vs. $1.98) be used instead?
|> 
|> I have used one of these flushes about every third oil change for years but
|> wonder if there is something cheaper that might work just as good? 
|> 
|> I change my oil every 2500-3000 miles and when I had the intake manifold
|> off about 6 months ago it looked pretty clean inside - even after 15 years :-)

Kerosene has been used as engine flush for decades.  Just remember that the the
film strength of the stuff is VERY weak.  Running the engine at speed or under
a load is asking for trouble while the kerosene is in it.  kerosene is a highly
detergent cleaning solvent so it is effective.  I have heard of, though not
performed, an engine break-in after a rebuild, using straight kerosene.  They
ran the engine for several hours NOT under load, but at various speeds up to
about 1500 RPM, and then changed to regular motor oil and a new filter.  The
break-in was successful, but I don't think I'd have the guts to try it.

Your current results, clean engine after 15 years of operation, indicates that
you're already doing a fabulous job of maintenance on your machine.  Most of the
rest of us should do so well!
-- 
				Bruce Gold
				   Utah
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Reputable Rotary Workshop wanted, in Australia
From: bmw@nutmeg.ntu.edu.au (Brett Whinnen)
Date: 3 Oct 92 11:15:59 +0900
Distribution: world
Organization: Information Technology, Northern Territory University

Well my Rotary is lacking a wee bit of power, the mechanics tell me it does not
really need a rebuild (strange that coming from mechanics), anyway I've decided
to get a bridgeport done and rebuilt, incl all seals, and apex seals. Now what
I need is a reputable workshop somewhere in Australia that can do the work.

If anyone out there knows could you please email or reply, it doesn't matter as
I read this group quite regularily. 

Also to anyone out there in the world, would you know of the price of a 
Racing Beat holley 4bbl to 13B intake manifold ? I have a 465 Holley on it at
the moment, which is fine for the standard port engine, and have a 600 Holley 
for when it gets bridgeported, yes I know Webers are the better carby for a
Rotary, but they also cost twice as much as the holley.

Adva-thanks-nce
Brett Whinnen,

--- The mere words above express my own opinion and views they do not in anyway
    reflect the thoughts of the department that employs me.

+----------------------------------+------------------------------------------+
| Brett Whinnen.                   |     e-mail bmw@pandanus.cs.ntu.edu.au    |
| Contract Programmer              |            bmw@dme.nt.gov.au             |
|                                  | snail-mail 4/33 Nation Cres              |
| NT Dept. of Mines and Energy     |            Coconut Grove NT              |
| Australia.                       |            0810          Australia       |
+----------------------------------+------------------------------------------+

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: iseman@ravel.udel.edu (Stephen Early)
Subject: Re: Seal for gas leak?
Organization: University of Delaware
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 14:43:51 GMT

In article <92274.013639QXF1@psuvm.psu.edu> <QXF1@psuvm.psu.edu> writes:
>I got a leak somewhere on my 82 Civic fuel filler pipe beause of rust.  I
>was asked ~$120 by dealer for replacement, about 1/6 of the total car price.
>I am wondering whether there is any kind of epoxy seal which is safe to gas
>for problem like this.  Help me netters.  The only thing dealers interested
>is to get money out of my pocket.  I gotta no way to turn to except you folks.
>
>Ching --> :-)

I once bought a  kit from NAPA for about $15.00.  It is a gas tank repair 
kit and works well.  It is a two part epoxy that you mix in a platic 
container that comes in the kit.  The mixture becomes very hot and you
apply it to the cleaned surface where the leak is.  I repaired a fuel tank
in my VW which had rusted through and never had another problem even though
the repair was constantly submerged in fuel.

Steve
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bcasper@c00313-11pa.eos.ncsu.edu (Brian Casper)
Subject: Re: How to loosen the brake assembly when changing pads?
Organization: North Carolina State University, Project Eos
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 21:53:54 GMT

In article <BvpoM9.3zy@news.larc.nasa.gov> DEVILBISS@OCTAVE.LARC.NASA.GOV (Zaphod Beeblebrox) writes:
>> The method I use is to get myself a small block of wood (a 6" piece of 1x2)
>>and a large C-clamp.  Put the wood against the piston and stick the
>>C-clamp over it all so that as you tighten the screw on the C-clamp, the
>>screw pushes the piston back into the caliper.  The mechanical advantage
>>offered by the C-clamp is amazing...  You will want to open the cap on your
>>fluid reservior before you get started so that there will not be any pressure
>>on the other side of the system to push the piston back out.
>
>You should cover the fluid reservior loosly with some plastic wrap.  If you don't, 
>brake fluid may squirt out.  If the fluid remains on any painted surface, it will 
>remove the paint.  Otherwise, C-clamps are the way to go . . . 
>

Absolutely correct.  I could have been clearer on that point.  I usually
just open the cap and leave it in place.  This way, the air can escape
without building pressure, and it won't splatter paint eating glycerin
all over the place ;-)


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: q1hl@jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca (Nameless CS Student)
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure Relief Valve ?
Keywords: oil pressure
Organization: University of New Brunswick
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 1992 08:01:29 GMT

In article <1992Sep27.075528.28146@jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca> q1hl@jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca (Nameless CS Student) writes:
>Low oil pressure is USUALLY the result of not enough oil in the
>system, thin (hot) oil, or a pump failure.

OOPS!  Forgot to mention a defective filter.  Since the oil is
being forced through the filter under pressure, a hole in the
filter will cause the same symptoms as an open bypass valve.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos