HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: pvmason@cco.caltech.edu (Peter V. Mason)
Subject: Re: What to do with old barn?
Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 18:14:45 GMT

In article <CBURNS-290792153649@nend.chem.indiana.edu> CBURNS@ucs.indiana.edu (Chris Burns) writes:
>Howdy,
>
>A friend of mine has some old barns on his property.  They're the kind that
>have a frame that's constructed without nails.  He's interested in either
>converting them into something he can use, or maybe selling them.  Anyone
>out there know anything about this kind of thing?
>
>If there's another newsgroup that I should post to, please let me know.
>
>Thanks
>
>Chris
A decade or so ago there was a big market in Vermont for old barns
to be taken apart and rebuilt on a yuppie estate in Conneticut, suburban
New York, etc.  Kind of a disgusting idea to a native Vermonter, but
I'd rather see that happen than the usual end; collapse by neglect.
Your friend could make inquiries among the right sort of architect,
remodelling contractor, etc.  Better yet, how about finding an
interested museum.  For example, the Shelborne Museum in Shelburne
Vermont has bought and reconstructed many old houses, barns, covered
bridges, etc.  They focus on Vermont structures, but a letter to
the curator might get you a name of a museum in the mid-west. 
Don't let your friend tear them down until he makes some inquiries.
  
Peter Mason 


Newsgroups: rec.antiques
From: berger@atropa (Mike Berger)
Subject: Re: Seeking value of old phone
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 19:53:20 GMT

schutt@netcom.com (David G. Schutt) writes:
>Depending on exact age, condition, etc. etc. could be anywhere from
>$200 to $2,000. There is a new paperback book "Telephones, Antique

>to Modern", by Kate E. Dooner, Schiffer Publishing, Ltd., 1992, $29.95,
>that has many, many color photos of every phone I have ever seen and
>many more that I would like to see. Also comes with a 'Value Guide.'
*----
More likely $ 75 - $ 400.  There are phones of that type available
at auction in mostly-original condition at the low end.  Toward the
$ 400 range, you can get them fully restored with original parts.
If you can stand repro parts, they are commonly available in the
$ 200 range.

Of course, there are particular models that are especially rare,
and worth more.

I've seen some awfully rare early vintage pay phones in the $ 600
range.  I can't imagine what phone of that vintage and your
description would be worth $ 2000.

--
	Mike Berger
	Department of Statistics, University of Illinois
	AT&TNET     217-244-6067
	Internet    berger@atropa.stat.uiuc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.antiques
From: campbell@EE.Stanford.EDU (Martha C. Campbell)
Subject: Information Wanted
Organization: Stanford University
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 92 21:26:05 GMT



Hi all:

I'll be traveling to Santa Fe, NM on August 24th for about 7 days.
Though I'm vacation with my husband I would like to find a few good
antiques stores.  If anyone  has any suggestions
please email at campbell@sierra.stanford.edu. 

P.S. WE'll also  be traveling to Mexico in December for about three
weeks, we will be visiting (Puerto Vallarta, Xatapa, Acapulco, Cancun
and Guadalajara).  If anyone has suggestions of good antiques stores
in any of these cities.

I do have a few guide books for all of the above but there is no
mention of antiques stores.  thanks again.

martha Campbell
campbell@sierra.stanford.edu
From: mouse@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu
Newsgroups: rec.antiques
Subject: Re: Bisque Help!
Date: 22 Jul 92 08:45:53 CDT
Organization: University of Kansas Academic Computing Services

In article <92202.162656WTQ@psuvm.psu.edu>, Reid Woolery <WTQ@psuvm.psu.edu> writes:
> I didn't receive any replies on my last post so I'll try again. I have some
> bisque pieces that need to be cleaned. Can anyone tell me how I might go about
> doing this? Thanks in advance...
> 
> 
> ******************************************************************************
> * Reid S. Woolery                          The Pennsylvania State University *
> * (Appl/Sys/Analyst) UTS                   WTQ@PSUVM.PSU.EDU                 *
> ******************************************************************************
> 

Hi, Reid...

I have the feeling that you may have sent me your inquiry and that it got
mangled or lost.   Anyway, I thought I would just tell you what I do,
though I warn you, anything is a hazard in some way.

First, test the paint in a tiny spot.  If it is water soluble, that that's
a problem.  Sometimes art shops have a spray cleaner which is supposed
to help...  it's iffy, in my opinion, but sometimes works.

If the paint is a ceramic type, then I clean it as follows:
Get out a mild liquid soap... I like Ivory ... and an old toothbrush.
Work up a nice lather and gently clean the item.  Be careful that the
water you use for waching/rinsing is not cold and not hot... room temp
is good, as that is not a shock for the china/glass.  Rinse well, and
air dry on a clean cloth of paper towel.  Be careful as you work.  It
is easy for damage to occur by hitting the object against the faucet
on the sink or to drop in the sink because the soap makes it so slippery.
Also, something fragile may break easily, such as fingers on figurines.
It is also possible that someone previously made a repair which is now
weak or not easy to see under the dirt, and the pressure of cleaning 
causes the break to come apartin your hands.  I use a Rubbermaid pan
and drain rack and drain board, and a rubbermaid cover over the faucet
when I'm working, and I still go slow.

Good Luck

Nancy


Newsgroups: rec.antiques
From: mike@cc.gatech.edu (Mike McCracken)
Subject: Re: Weller ceramics?
Organization: Software Research Center, Georgia Tech.
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1992 12:18:33 GMT

In article <1992Jul31.022149.1652@msuinfo.cl.msu.edu>, 21329KAD@MSU (Kim Dyer) writes:
|> I'm helping a friend deal with selling off various peices from his
|> mother's estate.  Among her things we found some Hull and McCoy
|> ceramic peices (one badly chipped, the rest in excellent shape).
|> I know these are worth something, and he should not just garage sale
|> them.  There are also two blue "cornucopia" peices, and a sort
|> of urn that appear to be about the same vintage and style.  (Sort
|> of deco.)  They are marked "Weller" on the bottom in large script.
|> I would like to make an offer on these (can't even THINK about
|> touching the Hull, and I don't like the McCoy) but would like to
|> be fair about it.  If they have value I would likemy friend to
|> get some approximation of their worth.  If they are just odd
|> deco peices with no real value I'll offer him less.  (His mother
|> was also a friend, so there are sentimental reasons I would like
|> them as well.) I know that I can't get a price over the nets
|> .. but would like to know if anyone recognizes the name "Weller"
|> as collectable or not.
|> ************************************************************************
|> *  KIM DYER                    *                                       *
|> *  208 COMPUTER CENTER         * Had I known this long ago,            *
|> *  MICHIGAN STATE UNIVERSITY   * I might not have come this way at all *
|> *  E. LANSING, MI  48824       *                                       *
|> *                              *                          - Al Stewart *
|> * 21329KAD @ MSU.BITNET        *                                       *
|> * 21329KAD @ IBM.CL.MSU.EDU    *                                       *
|> ************************************************************************
 Subject: Re: Weller ceramics?


 Weller pottery was one of the major Ohio art pottery firms from the
 same era as Rookwood and others.  It is in general more valuable than
 either the Hull or the McCoy.  If you send me pictures, I could evaluate
 and price it for you.  Otherwise, there are books on all of those potteries,
 and they generally include price guides.  Be careful, some of the pieces
 are pretty valuable (that means over $50, or more).  Also, condition is
 of prime importance.  Any piece that is chipped or damaged has significant
 loss in value.
 To find the books go to a large book store, or large antique show (there are
 usually book dealers there).
 Mike

Newsgroups: rec.antiques
From: stratton@cwis.unomaha.edu (Dan Stratton)
Subject: Re: Radio Speaker Grillcloth
Organization: University of Nebraska at Omaha
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 1992 19:09:11 GMT

karolcza@hpcc01.corp.hp.com  writes:
> 
> I recently purchased a relatively 'mature' old Silvertone radio (20's) and
> though I have completely renovated the wooden case, repaired the actual
> radio including finding replacements for some of the old tubes...
> 
> I still haven't been able to find a new grill-cloth for the speaker!
> 
> Can anyone help me locate an antique radio dealer, parts dealer, 
> collector or anyone else that may know where I can find old speaker
> grill-cloths?
> 
> Any advice would be greatly appreciated.               
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Pete Karolczak
> HP Corporate
>  
> 
Pete,

I found a suitable grill cloth for a old Zenith radio that my
wife and I refinished a few years back at Radio Shack.

Hope this helps,
Dan Stratton
stratton@odin.unomaha.edu
Newsgroups: rec.antiques
From: richard@octel.com (Richard Karasik)
Subject: Re: Antique Clocks
Keywords: clock repair
Organization: Octel Communications Inc., Milpitas Ca.
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 21:21:40 GMT

>>
>>- About how much should it cost to get it cleaned and oiled?
>>
>>Any other pointers to a novice in this field would also be most appreciated.
>
>   Having reconditioned a number of cucoo clocks, I've developed a
>strong fondness for antique clocks.  There are several suppliers
>throughout the country that can provide parts, especially for the
>higher-quality clocks.  In other words, if anything does go wrong with
>it, parts are likely available.  Even if the gear pivot points are
>worn out, they can be drilled and replaced.
>
    Problem is unless you have some feeling for it -parts is parts and pieces is
	pieces - asupplier is little or no help to a non repairman ..
	better contact NAWCC for local repairpeople of good repute ..
>
>   An indication to quality is the thickness of the gears.  The best
>mantle clocks had gears up to 3/16" thick or so.  I know of no clock
>that is made this well today. 
    Chelsea clock company -Chelsea Massachusetts -last remaining
	clock company in US of A and make the best ships and mantle
	clocks around ...

>battery in your digital clock - yearly?  But daily or weekly clocks
>were common too.  I've even seen a clock that ran forever on
>barometric pressure changes - a flexing plate on a sealed drum moved a
>winder.  (This one looked fairly recent.)

	These were an interesting novelty ,and even found their way into pocket
	watches ..
>fascination of that glass-domed anneversary clock with its slooooowly
>rotating and reversing pendulum.  I'm sorry, but these modern quartz
>anneversary clocks, with their electronics in a silver box and their
>pendulum spinning faster, just don't have the same asthetic beauty or
>the same beauty of motion.
    Hear hear!!!
>

-- 
|UUCP  richard@octel.com                 VOICE (HEY YOU!) or 408 942 6372
| 
|             Speaker for the dead - among them:
|                 Liberty, Justice, Freedom
Newsgroups: rec.antiques,rec.audio
From: berger@atropa (Mike Berger)
Subject: Re: Old tube radio
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 21:05:15 GMT

ttak@troi.cc.rochester.edu (Tim Takahashi) writes:
>I'm in the process of rebuilding an RCA Victor Model 88K floor radio that
>I saved from the junk heap. It is an AM/SW superheterodyne radio in a
>large floor standing case. It has a magic-eye tuning device, and a 12"
>full-range loudspeaker that uses the power-supply coil to generate the
>magnetic field (i.e. no permanent magnet). The tubes that it uses are
>tubes such as 6J7,6L7,6K7 (octal plug w/ anode caps).. I've found a schematic
>in a repair guide dated 1947, but I have a feeling that it is older yet.
>Can an old radio collecter help me out? (I have a grip on repair, but 
>would like some more history)
*----
I don't know that particular radio, but the tube lineup puts it
right in the 1947 and later range.

The electrostatic speaker magnet isn't just powered by the radio:
It probably also acts as a choke for the power supply.
--
	Mike Berger
	Department of Statistics, University of Illinois
	AT&TNET     217-244-6067
	Internet    berger@atropa.stat.uiuc.edu
From: erudnick@claudius.pica.army.mil (Edward J. Rudnicki )
Newsgroups: rec.antiques
Subject: Old Cuckoo Clock
Date: 22 Jul 92 13:01:51 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: U.S. Army  Armament Research Development & Engineering Center, Dover NJ
Originator: erudnick@claudius

The subject of clocks reminded me of a nagging problem I have
with an older cuckoo clock I inherited.

It's a very large German cuckoo clock about 30 years old. The
problem is as follows:

The chimes and the music boxes work beautifully, but the time
keeping mechanism tends to slow down and stop within a few
minutes of it starting. If I put added weight on the weight
which runs it it works fine, but it stops with just the cast
iron pine cone it's supposed to have.

Is there a quick fix for this? The alternative is to permanently
add weight, but I'm concerned about the added stress this may put
on the escapement mechanism.



Ed Rudnicki     erudnick@pica.army.mil     All disclaimers apply
Newsgroups: rec.antiques
From: pebrier@srv.PacBell.COM (Paul Brierley)
Subject: Re: Old Cuckoo Clock
Originator: pebrier@boulder
Organization: Pacific * Bell
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 14:55:00 GMT


In article <1992Jul22.130151.9054@pica.army.mil>, erudnick@claudius.pica.army.mil (Edward J. Rudnicki ) writes:
|> The subject of clocks reminded me of a nagging problem I have
|> with an older cuckoo clock I inherited.
|> 
|> It's a very large German cuckoo clock about 30 years old. The
|> problem is as follows:
|> 
|> The chimes and the music boxes work beautifully, but the time
|> keeping mechanism tends to slow down and stop within a few
|> minutes of it starting. If I put added weight on the weight
|> which runs it it works fine, but it stops with just the cast
|> iron pine cone it's supposed to have.
|> 
|> Is there a quick fix for this?


I found that if the clock wasn't completely level (i.e. hanging
straight), the clock would stop running.  When I made a very
subtle change to straighten it out, it never stopped again.

Hope it works for you too.

Paul
-- 
---  Paul Brierley				Pacific*Bell      --
---  pebrier@srv.pacbell.com			San Ramon, Calif. --
Newsgroups: rec.antiques
From: richard@octel.com (Richard Karasik)
Subject: Re: Antique Clocks
Keywords: clock repair
Organization: Octel Communications Inc., Milpitas Ca.
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 21:28:10 GMT

In article <1992Jul15.152558.20812@sctc.com> smith@sctc.com (Rick Smith) writes:
>I have an old eight-day Herschede mantle clock with Westminster chime
>that I inherited from my grandmother (a "grandmother" clock rather than
>a grandfather clock, I guess). It was rather unreliable and after several
>years it stopped running entirely.
>
>I took it to the local jeweler where Tony, an enthusiastic clock
>repairman, explained that it probably needed new bearings. There were
>lots of old clocks sitting around the shop and he was obviously very
>interested in them.
>
>Tony worked on it for several months and eventually got it working
>again. That's right, I said _months_.
>
   A Herschede is a rather simple clock -when all is considered, and 
   it sounds like Tony is a bit incompetent -altho persistent.
   Maximum time for a strip down and rebuild 2 hours. If anything
   has to be replaced the time goes up since Herschede is no more
   and spare parts come from the heavens. 

   Might try Otto Frei and Borels for parts tho in Oakland  CA
   -they cost a bunch but
   have been able to deliver on hard to find parts.
 -- replacing a crystal is a matter of 10 minutes - cleaning the watch
 may take 1 hour from disassamebly back to gether again ..
 RIchard
-- 
|UUCP  richard@octel.com                 VOICE (HEY YOU!) or 408 942 6372
| 
|             Speaker for the dead - among them:
|                 Liberty, Justice, Freedom
From: burd@pilot.njin.net (Barry Burd)
Newsgroups: rec.antiques
Subject: 40's and 50's clothes
Keywords: clothes
Date: 23 Jul 92 18:22:35 GMT
Distribution: nj
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.


I'm in Madison Jew Jersey, near Morristown (Morris County).  Can
anyone recommend shops that buy and sell clothing (mainly from the
40's and 50's)?  I've inherited boxloads of such stuff.

Please reply to bburd@tarzan.drew.edu or to bburd@drew.bitnet.
I'll post a summary of responses to this newsgroup.

Thank you.
From: jeffa@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Jeff Alley)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 19:31:41 GMT
Subject: Collectible Disney Ceramics
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA
Newsgroups: rec.antiques


I'm a fairly big fan of Disney movies and I also collect toys, so naturally
I'm interested in old Disney toys.

I mainly collect Hagen-Rennaker ceramics. These are highly detailed
miniature (2" tall or less) ceramic figures of Disney characters. They
were originally sold at Disneyland in the 1950's and 1960's. Does anyone
else out there collect these things? They are really quite beautiful.
Does anyone have any to trade or sell?

Jeff Alley

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

"Those people have no respect for human life at all! 
 We ought to line 'em all up and shoot them!" -  Frank Burns  M*A*S*H

                             Jeff Alley
                         j_alley@hp.fc.com
                         hplabs!hpfela!jeff
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.antiques
From: knyhan@sdsu.edu (Kimberlee Nyhan)
Subject: HEYWOOD-WAKEFIELD FURNITURE
Organization: San Diego State University
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 21:53:15 GMT


Does anyone know where I can locate some Heywood-Wakefield furniture for a 
good price or can tell me anything regarding its history.
Newsgroups: rec.antiques
From: okunewck@psuvax1.cs.psu.edu (Phil OKunewick)
Subject: Re: Antique Clocks
Organization: Random, at best
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 21:02:55 GMT

casey@bradley.bradley.edu (Chris Langston) writes:
>mwill@daisy.WichitaKS.NCR.COM (Mark Will) writes:
>
>>5) When winding weight driven clocks, do not lift the weight with one hand
>>while winding the clock.  Allow the weight to hang free while pulling down
>>on the opposite end of the chain.
>
>   Well this is interesting...most repairmen I know say to put one hand under
>the weight to guide it and if something should break you can catch the weight
>therfore preventing any dammage to the clock case. But I guess you do clock 
>case work too and would give you more work to do. ( I have seen too meny 
>clocks where the people didn't guide the weight and the cable broke or it
>jumped the chain and the weight went crashing threw the bottom of the case.)

   The reason for not lifting the weight while winding the clock is to
make sure that the chain doesn't foul around the pulley.  This isn't
hard to repair, but it's an unnecessary nusance.  Tension on the chain
during winding will force it to follow the track in the bushing.

   There's a big difference between guiding and lifting, though it may
not be obvious to the observer.  A client may interpret your
guiding as lifting, jam the chain, then force it to try to get it
loose.


>>6) Never use WD-40 to lubricate a clock!!!  This is the surest way to damage
>>the dial which is usually made of heavy paper.  Use only specially refined
>>clock oil to lubricate a clock.
>
>  WD-40 or Silicon spray is very good to put on the springs. It seals the 
>spring and lubricates it. It also helps pervent the spring from rusting.
>But it is the only place where WD-40 or Silicon should be used.

   Did you ever inspect steel a couple years after dosing it well with WD-40?

   If steel is in a humid climate, it developes this wonderful deep
orange dusty patina (more commonly known as "rust") which can migrate
to other areas, such as gear shafts turning in bushings.

   Silicon spray is a pretty good rust preventative.  WD-40 isn't,
unless you re-spray it every few months.  I've had many things get
rusty a year after a dose of WD-40.  Forget what the can says, go with
experience.

Newsgroups: rec.antiques
From: sbambara@ent1.ent.ncsu.edu (Stephen Bambara)
Subject: glass show
Originator: sbambara@ent1.ent.ncsu.edu
Organization: Dept. of Entomology - NCSU, Raleigh, NC
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 18:33:51 GMT

	'Saw an announcement for an upcoming show and sale of
Depression Era Glass.

		July 25-26
		Marietta Georgia

		Info call (404) 528-8450


-- 
=========================================================================
     Stephen Bambara                 phone (919) 515-3140 
     Box 7626                        fax   (919) 515-7746
     Raleigh, NC 27695               internet sbambara@ent.ncsu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.antiques
From: schutt@netcom.com (David G. Schutt)
Subject: Re: Seeking value of old phone
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 92 17:26:28 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Distribution: usa

Depending on exact age, condition, etc. etc. could be anywhere from
$200 to $2,000. There is a new paperback book "Telephones, Antique

to Modern", by Kate E. Dooner, Schiffer Publishing, Ltd., 1992, $29.95,
that has many, many color photos of every phone I have ever seen and
many more that I would like to see. Also comes with a 'Value Guide.'

From: karolcza@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Pete Karolczak)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 00:16:51 GMT
Subject: Radio Speaker Grillcloth
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.antiques


I recently purchased a relatively 'mature' old Silvertone radio (20's) and
though I have completely renovated the wooden case, repaired the actual
radio including finding replacements for some of the old tubes...

I still haven't been able to find a new grill-cloth for the speaker!

Can anyone help me locate an antique radio dealer, parts dealer, 
collector or anyone else that may know where I can find old speaker
grill-cloths?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.               
Thanks in advance,

Pete Karolczak
HP Corporate
 

Newsgroups: rec.antiques,alt.locksmithing
From: richard@octel.com (Richard Karasik)
Subject: Safe Art
Organization: Octel Communications Corporation
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1992 01:27:32 GMT



Well I went and done did it.  I got this humongous safe
with an internal safe -doors are 9 inches thick -from some
place in san Francisco ... Yes I have the combinations ...
Its a Herman safe if that means anything??

My question is in regard Safe Art.

My question is in regard Safe Art.

I have seen some gorgeous old Wells Fargo Safes, and the amazing gold leaf
and stagecoach and such scenes on them.

Where can I find out more about them so 
that I can restore this one to all its former beauty?

Thanks
RIchard
-- 
|UUCP  richard@octel.com                 VOICE (HEY YOU!) or 408 942 6372
| 
|             Speaker for the dead - among them:
|                 Liberty, Justice, Freedom
Newsgroups: rec.antiques