HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: sweiger@sequent.com (Mark Sweiger)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Source for Davidia (Dove Tree)
Date: 13 Apr 92 18:47:20 GMT
Article-I.D.: sequent.1992Apr13.184720.7044
Distribution: usa
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems Inc.

Does anyone know of a source for Davidia, also know as the Dove Tree?
This deciduous Chinese native grows to about 50 feet and is covered with 
large white, hanging, dual bracts at this time of year, that look somewhat 
like doves.  It is spectacular in bloom, and has nice heart-shaped
foliage and a strong, somewhat upright branching habit.  It was imported
from China to this country via the Arnold Arboretum in 1902.  I know
of two specimens in Portland, Oregon, but I have never seen a 
commercial source for this lovely tree.  Any information is appreciated.

-- 
phone: (503)578-4329    fax: (503)578-5730   internet: sweiger@sequent.com
From: aphrk@Msu.oscs.montana.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: RE: Gota Cola
Date: 6 Apr 92 19:29:38 GMT
Reply-To: aphrk@Msu.oscs.montana.edu
Organization: Montana State University

Gota Kola (sorry, this IS the correct spelling I believe) is Centella
asiatica, which grows close to the ground in a creeping manner.  It is
considered a medicinal herb with uses similar to Reishi mushroom.  That
is, it is primarily used to treat the respiratory tract and as a blood
tonic applied in fevers.  It also has some sedative and immuno-enhancing
properties.  I have not heard of its use for depression.  It grows in
Pakistan, Madagascar and India.  It is believed to help one live a long
life as there are many centagenarians who eat it daily in those countries.
Also, elephants (who also live long) eat it.  It can be cooked or eaten
raw in salads.  I haven't tried it though, so I don't know what it tastes
like.  Dried gota kola which comes from overseas is suspected of being
contaminated with all sorts of nasties since it grows in ditches in these 
countries (i.e., sometimes act as sewers).  Ayuvedic herbalists have made
this herb more popular recently, thus the seed can be found on the American
markets now.  
Robyn Klein
Herbalist
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Garlic mustard? (was glyphosate & spraying)
Date: 13 Apr 92 19:36:25 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes:
> Chris at Ecology Center Fund <ecologycntr@igc.org> writes:
> 
>> KK>3) selectively killing introduced species in areas of native
>> KK> vegetation e.g., garlic mustard (which is spreading like 
>>  
>> Is this an Allium?  Haven't heard of it before, at least not by
>> that name.
> 
> No, it's a crucifer (Brassicaceae).  I'm blocking on the name right
> now.  Stinks of garlic.  

Alliaria officinalis.  (mind like a steel sieve...)

Kay
From: poli2031@waikato.ac.nz
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: HELP: GRAPES
Date: 7 Apr 92 14:03:23 +1200
Organization: University of Waikato, Hamilton, New Zealand

We have just shifted into a new place and it has got a grape vine full of
grapes.  What is your advice as we are new to this?
From: drk@cs.washington.edu (Daniel Kerns)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: garlic help
Date: 6 Apr 92 23:42:58 GMT
Organization: The University of Washington, Seattle WA 98195, USA

In article <1992Apr3.145852.21293@hemlock.cray.com> dadams@cherry.cray.com (David Adams) writes:
   Then later at another store I noticed that 
   the instructions said that they could be planted in the fall or
   in the spring.  Can I go ahead and plant them?  Do I need to
   wait until all danger of frost is past?  After all if I could
   have put them in last fall, there must not have been a whole 
   lot of worry about frost.

If you are in MN, I don't know if you can even plant in the fall because of
the hard freeze you might get.  In Washington you can plant any time but
fall is best for a fall harvest.

   Can I plant garlic from the grocery store?  It cost a lot less.

I do.  They grow just fine and I have never heard of anyone having any
trouble.  I get almost 100% yield.

   I noticed Elephant garlic in several catalogs.  It usually cost
   alot.  Then I noticed Elephant garlic at Cub foods in MN.  Can 
   I bring home Elephant garlic from the store and plant it in my
   garden?

Don't know for sure because I never plant it.  You might want to make sure
you like Elephant Garlic before you plant it.  It is very mild.  It is not
useful as a seasoning.
--
				Dan Kerns	drk@cs.washington.edu
				Univ. of Washington, Computer Science
From: pharvey@mipos3.intel.com (Paul Harvey)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Gypsum, Sulphur, pH and clay (BIG MISTAKE)
Keywords: clay soil
Date: 17 Apr 92 17:21:11 GMT

[A previous post says:]
>I added peat moss (it's organic, increases acidity a little, holds
>moisture, and allows drainage all at the same time) and perlite, a white
>lava rock (to lighten and loosen the soil).  

INCORRECT, PLEASE CHANT THE FOLLOWING 1,000 TIMES:

I WILL NOT ADD PEAT MOSS TO CLAY SOILS!

This is a complete waste of an expensive, valuable, limited, non-sustainable, 
resource. Peat moss's main attribute is it's ability to hold water and nutrients. 
Clay's main attribute is it's ability to hold water and nutrients. Clay does not 
need help holding more water, it holds too much already, the problem is not enough 
air. Peat moss will make a clay soil even worse, what you will end up with is
clay muck. Add huge amounts, up to 25% of the top 4 ft, of ground fir bark to clay
soils. Perlite is best used in potting and sprouting mixes. Peat moss is
added to SANDY SOILS where additional water holding is needed. The supply of
peat moss will outlast the supply of petroleum, but that doesn't justify
misuse.

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: jab3@cec2.wustl.edu (John Alonzo Breen)
Subject: Re: I think I killed my boxwoods :-(
Organization: Washington University, St. Louis Mo.
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1992 14:40:56 GMT

In article <1992Apr9.190355.3721@iscsvax.uni.edu> klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes:
>I'm about 300 miles north of you, and box won't grow for spit up
>here.  Mainly because of our cold, dry winter winds and sunburn.
>People who do get it to grow are growing in protected areas or 
>wrapping the plants with burlap most of the winter.
>
>You've got the Missouri Botanical Garden right in St Louis, one of
>the nicer ones I've ever visited.

Yes, it's great!  In fact, it was there that I got the idea of growing
boxwoods.  According to a pamphlet I got there, St. Louis is within
the zone for growing boxwoods (although it's far enough north that I
was a little worried about how hard it would be).

>They used to have a horticultural
>help-line number that you could call and ask all sorts of questions
>(in fact, I've got Dingwall's book, "The Garden Answers", written
>from the questions he got on the phone in the first few years).  I
>sure hope that service is still available.  Check the phone book under
>Missouri Botanical Garden.

Thanks, I didn't realize that (although they do now have a "home
garden center" that's got lots of information).  I probably still
would've asked the net, though, because of the wide variety of answers
one can get to almost any question (and some of them even correct :-).
--
John A. Breen                   |
jab3@cec1.wustl.edu             | This space unintentionally left blank
johnb@hobbes.mdc.com            |
Tel: (314)234-4341              |
From: pharvey@mipos3.intel.com (Paul Harvey)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Who says there are no frost resistant chiles?
Date: 14 Apr 92 18:25:46 GMT

I heard (saw) a rumor (posting) on r.g that there are no frost resistant
chiles. OK:

Capsicum baccatum v. pendulum
  Andean Aji    (~25oF?)

Capsicum pubescens
  chile manzano rojo y amarillo, (red and yellow apple chiles), rocoto  (~28oF?)

Capsicum (?) (also has pubescent leaves)
  chile de arbol  (~30oF?)

[Temperatures are from my own limited experience in N.Calif. Is anyone
else growing these? They come from the high tropics, (exc arbol) near 
the tierra frio zones or places of nightly frosts. That is why they have 
some frost tolerance]

Seed Source:
J.L. Hudson, Seedsman, po box 1058, redwood city, ca, 94064, CAT $1

More Info Source:
Solanaceae Enthusiasts, 3370 princeton ct, santa clara, ca, 95051
All I know about this outfit is that they are listed in Cornucopia as a
source of newsletters and books. Since I happen to know that this is
also the house of the world famous solanaceae expert, Mr. John Riley,
I would think this is the place to go for more info on this amazing,
mostly American family that is so little studied or understood.

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: jcp@islay.dco.dec.com (Jolly C. Pancakes)
Subject: Re: SNAILS.....shudder
Organization: Electric Otter Eel Emporium
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1992 20:15:35 GMT

In article <19530010@hprpcd.rose.hp.com> garyn@hprpcd.rose.hp.com (Gary Nichols) writes:
>After setting out our seedlings this year in the garden we noticed slug and 
>snail damage the next morning.  So, we started "slug hunts". Every night, my
>4 year old son and I go out with flashlights and a jar of salty water.  He 
>helps me spot the slugs, which I pick up and throw into the jar (where they
>quickly die).  After three to four days of this, the number of slugs was
>reduced drastically. 


	There are easier ways to do this. You do not have to pick up the
slimey little bastards.

	Take a spray bottle and fill it with 3/4 parts water, 1/4
ammonia, and add a few drops of mild dishwashing soap. Go out with the
flashlight and spray every slug you see. Watch them writhe hideously. (I
personally find this a great time to get out all your feelings about the
annoying coworkers, the idiot customers, etc...)

	The best slug hunting nights are ones when the humidity is very
high or it has been raining, and the temp is mild - they come out of
hiding in droves. Bad nights are very dry or windy, with high barometric
pressure (especially so if the day has been very hot, too).

	While hunting the slugs, take care not to squish all of the
earthworms cheerfully procreating in the grass and the flower beds.



-- 
jcpatilla						jcp@decuac.dec.com

Do your otters dance the morris? Do they shake their bells and bows?
Do they love that fiddle music? Do they leap and kick their toes?
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: cally@lucid.com (Cally Perry)
Subject: Re: Orchid help
Summary: An apple a day will do it
Keywords: orchid ethylene gas
Organization: Jack's Place
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 92 04:28:46 GMT

   I took a bus trip to the orchid show in New York organized by the
Cap Cod & the Islands and Pilgrim orchid societies. I took your
question about your phal suddenly failing in flower and
two-inner-leaves and passed it around on the bus. The consensus seemed
to be:

   Most likely by far: Ethylene gas will do this to an orchid very
fast. Ethylene gas is produced by ripening fruit, especially apples.

   Also Possible: 

     1) You moved it or the conditions changed to be either: hot
and way too dry or way too cold and moist. 

     2) The problem may be some kind of bacteria.

   They all seemed to think they could tell a lot more by looking at
it, so you may want to cart it off to some nearby friendly grower.

                    Cally Perry    cally@lucid.com
From: randyw@iplmail.orl.mmc.com (Randy Walker)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Mosquito Plant
Date: 16 Apr 92 17:29:21 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Martin Marietta


 I bought one of these plants about a year ago. I believe it's called
"Citrona". It has a strong smell similar to a citronella candle ( of course ).
I live in Orlando, Florida and we have lots of mosquitos here. I have seen no
evidence that it repels mosquitos, but it can't hurt.

Randy Walker
From: machanicm@gtephx.UUCP (Mindy Machanic)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: daffodils, where are they?
Summary: my giant crocus did the same thing...
Date: 7 Apr 92 16:23:46 GMT
Organization: AG Communication Systems, Phoenix, Arizona

In article <1992Apr6.155924.3588@iscsvax.uni.edu>, westendorf@iscsvax.uni.edu writes:
> 
>    Last fall, my daughters and I planted alot of daffodils.  None of them came
> up.  Does anyone have any ideas why?  Could they have been bad daffodils?

I planted 8 giant crocus bulbs that did the same thing. Two sent up a couple
scraggly attempts at leaves, and then quit, and the others were never seen.
What would have happened? Is it because we didn't get a freeze last year? (Our 
tulips came up OK.)

-- 
--Mindy in Phoenix            
******************************************************************************************
Mindy Machanic
AG Communication Systems/Quality Engineering               
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: djd@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (david.j.daulton)
Subject: Tuberose?
Organization: AT&T
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 13:25:02 GMT

Last night, while reading Evelyn Waugh's "While the Going Was Good" I came
across a description of "great spear-shaped white flowers, sheathed in
barbed leaves" and "giving off a scent of almost stifling richness" and
reported "throughout Arabia to act an an aphrodesiac among women."

I assume this is tuberose.  But I don't recall tuberose leaves being barbed,
and earlier in the book Waugh mentions tuberoses by name--so why does he
not name them here (although, the book is compiled from other books,
so the earlier reference may have come later, when he knew the name).

Could this be something other than tuberose?

(By the way, someone emailed me that I should add tuberose to the "Scents
the Whole Garden List", which I will eventually do when I update it.)

Dave Daulton, AT&T, Columbus, Ohio (Site of Ameriflora '92)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: dwhitney@hamp.hampshire.edu
Subject: lawnmowers/sheep
Organization: Hampshire College
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1992 03:48:56 GMT

YeYeah, well believe me I have pushed many a mower in my life.  Over acres of
lawn  It was never fun.  Granted the new push mowers are better engineered
out of lightweight materials, but they still cut how?  What I'm thinking about
here is that I've been told rotary mowers are better on uneven ground, and
that means either gas or electric.  Since my lawn is small and shrinking ( if
I have anything to say aabout it) I tend to electric.  

So: my lawn is full of ant hills, mole hills, moss, occasional stones, and lo
lots of weeds, mainly plantain which I hate.  I cut around bluets, violets, and
pussytoes which I love. Also some forgetmenots and a few violas which might be
more productive this year. I haven't bought a mower yet and am still thinking.

One other thing, my yard is on a definite slope, down the hill so to speak.
-- 
Deb Whitney
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: muddy path
Date: 14 Apr 92 11:47:09 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

In article <0095915B.69871680@Msu.oscs.montana.edu>, oopcv@Msu.oscs.montana.edu writes:
> I'm looking for suggestions.  I have a path that goes from the sidewalk to the
> yard gate, approximately 6' long.  It was previously unused, but I, the new
> owner, use it frequently.  This little path is currently quite muddy, as the
> lawn continues to erode from foot traffic.  I would like some suggestions on
> what to put down;  gravel comes to mind, but doesn't really appeal to me, and
> seems like it would only be a temporary solution.
> 
> Requirements:
> It must be inexpensive ("free" would be excellent).
> It should hold up to traffic (I have two large dogs that really tear things up).
> It cannot be too smooth;  ice was a problem before it became mud. 
> I should mention the path is relatively narrow, maybe 2' wide between the fence
> and the lilacs.
> 
> Oh!  It slopes, too.
> 
> So there it is:  short, muddy, on a slight incline.

Flagstones set in soil with plants in between (something low growing and 
tough like some of the creeping Dianthus species) or flagstone set in sand
base over plastic if you don't like the look of plants covering walking stones.

I've also made "cheater flagstones" by figuring out where feet usually hit
along the path, digging an irregularly shaped hole to about 6" and pouring
in concrete in situ where footsteps hit.  Sakrete or another pre-mixed 
concrete is fine.  Once you get some greenery growing in-between, it doesn't
look too shabby for a service path.  IMHO, it's easier than hauling rock.

Kay Klier  Biology Dept  UNI
From: kevin@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu (Kevin Harris)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: bonsai in Canada
Keywords: bonsai
Date: 14 Apr 92 13:50:13 GMT
Reply-To: kevin@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu (Kevin Harris)
Organization: Columbia University

[Stuart's still having problems getting bonsai in Canada.]

I just printed your article and will pass your request on to the man
who owns Shanti Bithi - a nice bonsai supply house in Stamford, 
Connecticut. He seems to be pretty  well plugged into the 
international bonsai scene and might have a lead for you. I plan on going
out there this weekend, and, with any luck, should have something for you
by the beginning of next week. 

Since I have received a few requests for pointers to Canadian bonsai houses
or, at least, American bonsai shops that will mess with US/CA Customs, I'll
post whatever information this man gives me.

ObBonsai:

Just this morning, I picked up _Bonsai: Special Techniques_ by The 
Brooklyn Botanic Garden (*still* have yet to get over there.) It looks
*very* promising, and it cost me all of US $6.00 at Barnes and Noble here
in NYC.

kevin
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: judith@mermaid.larc.nasa.gov (Judith Moore)
Subject: Re: Habanero, Chili
Keywords: Habanero, Chili
Reply-To: judith@mermaid.larc.nasa.gov (Judith Moore)
Organization: NASA Langley Research Center
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1992 20:06:30 GMT

I've also started plants (zillions) from dried chiles. 
Specifically, the Bueno brand New Mexico red ones (variety
unknown) my sister gave me a bag of for Christmas. They
seemed to emerge as quickly as any other pepper I planted
in my tray with a soil heater cable.

Judith Moore
judith@mermaid.larc.nasa.gov

Judith Moore
judith@mermaid.larc.nasa.gov
From: rbemben@timewarp.prime.com (Rich Bemben)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: coaxing blooms (tillandsia)
Date: 16 Apr 92 17:51:07 GMT
Expires: 30 Apr 92 05:00:00 GMT
Reply-To: rbemben@timewarp.prime.com (Rich Bemben)
Distribution: na
Organization: Computervision, Bedford MA

In article <2833@dove.nist.gov> rosentha@bldrdoc.gov (Peter Rosenthal 303-497-5844) writes:
>I have a small Tillandsia specimen.  Bought it in bud, with two
>crowns and two spikes.
>           They have not bloomed in the two years they have
>been growing.  

You don't mention the name of the tillandsia (there are +/- 3,000 different
types of tillandsia) but I would asume that its one of the small ones 
with short (2-3 inch) leaves that are covered with gray scales.  Most 
tillandsia's like a bright to sunny location with a lot of good air 
circulation.  Judging from the description of your plant, you have given it
the climate that it likes...the trouble is, most bromeliads in the home
enviornment have a mind of their own when it comes to bloom cycles.  If 
the enviornment that you've given it closely approximates that of its
normal climate it still may be another YEAR before its mature enough to 
bloom.  Many bromels, given optimum conditions, will bloom, on average,
at between 1 to 3 years of age. (Its possible for it to take upwards of
5 to 6 years.  8-\)

>
>I heard that there is a trick involving a plastic bag and
>some fruit to induce blooming.  Something about ethylene
>gas...  

The trick behind this procedure is that you use an apple, which during 
decay produces ethylene gas.  The gas in turn forces the plant into a 
decline or death cycle; when this happens the natural survival mechanism
of the plant triggers the bloom (and subsequently a new set of "pups"
from the origional plant).  Then at anywhere from 1-4 months you should
notice signs of a flower spike begining to form in the center of the plant.

On a Victory Garden program a couple of years ago Bob Thompson was at
a nursery in Florida where they had thousands of Aechmea Faciata (Silver
Vase - large gray bromels usually found in the supermarkets 8-)).  They
used this procedure, except that it was in the form of a quick squirt
in the center of the plant from a tank of ethylene gas.  

Trust me,

Rich Bemben
(Ex-president, New England Bromeliad Society)


Rich Bemben - DoD #0044                     rbemben@timewarp.prime.com
[    THIS SPACE FOR RENT     ]              (617) 275-1800 x 4173
The street giveth and the street taketh away - Catmother
*********************************************************************
From: oliphant@cae.wisc.edu (Paul Oliphant)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: soaker hoses -- etc.
Date: 16 Apr 92 17:42:29 GMT
Article-I.D.: doug.1992Apr16.124230.21945
Organization: College of Engineering, Univ. of Wisconsin-Madison
Originator: oliphant@eeyore.engr.wisc.edu


I just noticed this topic on soaker hoses.  I cannt read this group ALL the
time.  

My dad and I used soaker hoses about 14 years ago. Just as they were coming
out. You couldnt get them in the stores, had to special order them from
the makers.  Well anyway we set five raised beds.  Put soaker hose about 
8 to 10 inches down in them.  Ran pcv pipe between the beds.  Then (here
is the trick) we read that you should have an even pressure to get an even
and correct water flow.  The booklet from the makers claimed that if you
had the right pressure that the ground would only take out the water it 
needed.  On dry days the soil would pull more water from the soaker hose
and on a cool or wet day not very much at all.  So we set up a pressure
regualtor, a 6 ft stand pipe with a toilet tank valve in the top, to keep
the water level contant.  It seemed to work.  

We did have some problems just after seting out plants and trying to keep
the surface moist for germination.  But after a little on top the first
part of the year things worked well.  We just keep a the water on ALL the
time.

I do not know if the soaker hoses they sell now days would do this but they
appear to be of the same type stuff.


Paul

========================================================================
Paul Oliphant				Applications Manager
oliphant@engr.wisc.edu			Computer-Aided Engineering
(608) 265-2637				University of Wisconsin-Madison
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Red Osier Dogwood
Date: 7 Apr 92 21:11:54 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

In article <1992Apr6.093727@crash.Prime.COM>, margo@crash.Prime.COM (Margo Roy) writes:
> I recently bought some Red Osier Dogwoods and was wondering how far apart to
> plant them.  I'm planning on using them as a screen between my yard and the road.

If you've got Cornus alba, it gets to about 8 ft tall and 6 ft wide at
maturity.  Cornus sanguinea is about 10 ft tall x 6 ft wide at maturity.
Cornus sericea (=C. stolonifera) is about 6 x 6 ft.

I'd probably put in a double row on 3 ft centers as a hedge, if I had to
use just a single species.  But I've never done a single-species hedge,
since my taste runs more to an informal mixed shrub/small tree/vine
approach to screening out the neighbors... It's all a matter of preference.

Kay