HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: brian@creek.eel.ufl.edu (Brian Gentry)
Subject: Personal Horror story (and request for equipment)
Organization: UF EE Department (student)
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 92 21:04:16 GMT

A few weeks ago, there was a thread on this group asking for
bad experiences with car audio.  Here's mine:

About 2 years ago a friend and I installed a system in my car.
Part of the system was a Sony CDX-A30 installed in the rear
side wall of the car, where the jack used to be.  This was in
a 1985 Toyota Celica GT hatchback.  The changer was mounted
verticaly with the controller "brain" resting underneath it.
There was a layer of fiberglass insulation between the "brain"
and the changer to keep them from banging around.  All was well
until about three months ago when I scraped my car against a pole.
The pole knocked off a small piece of molding on the left rear
quarter panel.  The screw hole for this piece of molding left
an opening directly into the compartment where my CD changer and
controller "brain" were located.  I didn't notice that this hole
existed, much less consider the fact that rain or other debris
could be coming into contact with my CD changer and controller.

About 2 weeks ago my stereo stopped working.  The only sounds it
would make were crackling and popping noises; definitely not cool.
When I removed the CD changer for inspection, I found it to be 
intact.  However, when I reached down to remove the controller
"brain" I was greeted by a soaking wet piece of fiberglass insulation.
In addition, the controller was sitting in a small pool of water.
I came to the amazing conclusion that this must be why my stereo
was not working.

When I opened the controller I found that part of the circuit board
was rusted and that the rust had eaten through some of the traces.
Again, not good.  When I called Sony, I found out that they no longer
make the RM-X2 controller.  I have yet to find a stereo shop that has
one either.  Sony will sell a new board for $120.  So, I guess I'll
pay better attention to my car next time.

This brings me to my request.  I would like to buy a new or used
RM-X2 controller "brain".  This is the metal box that has the RCA
jacks, and connections for the CD changer and control pad.  If 
anyone has one for sale, PLEASE e-mail me about it.

Hope this was at least mildly entertaining.

		    Brian L. Gentry
	       (brian@sioux.eel.ufl.edu)



Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: jdavis@wizard.etsu.edu (Jason Davis)
Subject: Re: carpet glue            
Keywords: Adhesive 
Reply-To: jdavis@wizard.etsu.edu (Jason Davis)
Organization: East Texas State University, Commerce, TX
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 06:09:37 GMT

In article <1992Aug25.171016.1088@bmerh85.bnr.ca> ehawrysh@bmers217.bnr.ca (Evan Hawrysh) writes:
>I don't think my last posting made it out so I'll post this again.
>
>I just finished building an isobaric enclosure using a cardboard tube.
>I now want to cover it in some automotive carpetting and I was wondering
>what kind of adhesive would be best suited for this application? I also
>have a plywood endpiece, so the glue would have to adhere to that as 
>well. Any suggestions? Please respond to the net, as I don't have email
>access.
>
>Evan
>

I have experience with three 3M Spray adhesives: 77, 08080, 08090.  I wouldn't
recommend the 77.  It doesn't stick as well as the other two and it is
comparatively expensive.  The 08080 is more a general purpose adhesive while
the 08090 is recommended for vinyl applications.  However, either will work
well with carpet.  The 080 series "laces" on without soaking through the carpet
as the 77 is bad about doing.

If you can find "Touch-N-Stick" brand, it has worked extremely well for me.
It cost about 2/3 as much as 3M's 080 series and covers approximately twice
as much area.

For large jobs, spray adhesives are prohibitively expensive.  Construction
adhesives, similar to the ever popular "Liquid Nails" are available in gallon
cans and may be troweled on and smoothed for an extremely effective bond which
is also very economical.  I used four gallons during the installation of
"Audio Asylum" last summer and it held up exceptionally well.

I hope you find this information to be of some value.  Good luck with your
system!  OOps, I mean Break A Leg ;-).

           								-jld


   /|  Jason Lee Davis                        <jdavis@wizard.etsu.edu>  |\
||/_|  Shiloh Productions sound co. ____      <s2903d@etsuv2.etsu.edu>  |_\||
||\ |  Rt. 1  Box 175              (_ |_)     <s2903d@etsuvax2.bitnet>  | /||
   \|  Klondike, Texas 75448 ________)| _____ (903) 886-2903            |/
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Wubba!
From: rtiger@vax1.umkc.edu
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 02:14:40 GMT
Organization: University of Missouri - Kansas City


Wubba wubba wubba wubba wubba wubba wubba wubba wubba wubba wubba wubba wubba!
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Wubba wubba wubba wubba wubba wubba wubba wubba wubba wubba wubba wubba wubba!

RTIGER

Hear me wubba.
From: v087mxgb@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (Shawn E Thompson)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: NEED: *expert* advice on installing subwoofer with existing amp
Date: 2 Sep 92 23:32:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41


Hi,

thanks for reading. If possible please pass some advice to me 
at my e-mail address as I am getting deluged in news with 
unread articles. Thanks.


I have a 1986 Volvo 740GLE with a stock stereo (pull-out,
AM-FM cassettes). Nice radio, nothing spectacular but nice
(who makes it? Volvo themsleves?).

These radios come stock with a 20watt amp under the dash,
controlled by a switch in the radio unit itself.


Everything is stock.



Now, I want to add a *cheap* subwoofer (I know the arguments
about getting a whole new stereo and buying a good subwoofer, etc
but I really can't afford anything like that. Nor do I want
to make this such an involved process).


JC Whitney is advertising a subwoofer (Sparkomatic, I think),
(stop cringing all you die-hard audio-philes who would 
rather stand in a toilet, chewing on a ball of tin-foil,
while shaving your with a cheese grater than use such a
less-than-elite system, after all I'm in it for the 
savings :-) ). This system claims to be fully self-contained,
and have the enclosure, amp, crossover, speaker, and 
wiring harness/connectors. It also claims to be compatible
with *all* radios & amps.


How do I hook this to my system? 

Should I just use my high output (after my amp) and split
the rear deck speakers to the speakers and subwoofer, or
must I (which means I probably will trash this idea) split
my low input to the amp?


Also does it matter if I select front or rear (except the 
obvious inherent fader control, etc).....?



Anyone ever try this ??




Shawn Thompson




PS the jabs above are meant in fun, not as a serious 
slam of any brand :-)





PPS In my wanderings, I found an extra Volvo stock amp
like mine.....any interest?
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: tumbush@tigris.eng.ohio-state.edu (Gregory J. Tumbush)
Subject: CD Changer Controller
Organization: The Ohio State University Dept of Electrical Engineering
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 20:32:16 GMT

Hello all,
  I have a question concerning CD changers.  I'm looking for a CD changer controller 
similar to Sony's RM-X14 but does not use the antenna as input.  I prefer the uncluttered
looks of a non-tape controller.  Also, I will probably not be using any internal amp
that is included in the controller.  Mostly considering Sony, Blaubunkt, Yamaha, and 
Denon but am open for suggestions.  I have heard that by next year all Sony changers
will be of the Unilink variety.  Anyone else heard this?

Thanks in advance,
Greg Tumbush
From: jsalmi@lookout.it.uswc.uswest.com ( John Salmi )
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Wubba!
Date: 26 Aug 92 14:51:26 GMT
Organization: US West Information Technologies, Denver

now THAT was deep.  very.
From: nakayama@erg.sri.com (Dave Nakayama)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Sony CD Changers and skipping
Date: 25 Aug 92 19:57:08 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: SRI International, Menlo Park, CA


I have a home CD Changer, so I'd decided to get a Sony 10-Disc system for
my car to use the same cartridges.  So I hopped over to a local dealer, and
this is what he told me:

"We will sell you a Sony if you want one, but I'd advise against it.  We are
a licensed Sony dealer, so if you twist my arm, I'll install one for you. But
we've had a lot of problems with the Sony units skipping.  So I'd advise you 
to get another system, like Kenwood..."

me:  "But doesn't Sony make Kenwood CD players?"

"They used to, but after complaints about the skipping, Kenwood decided to
part with Sony.  Now they have an excellent and small 10-disc changer which
to my knowledge hasn't had any skipping problems so far."


Is there any truth to this?  I was all set to get a Sony CD changer for my
car, but now I'm starting to look at Alpine, Denon, and others.

			-Dave

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dave Nakayama                                     david_nakayama@qm.sri.com
Research Engineer                                    nakayama@tiger.sri.com
Systems Development Division
SRI International				       work: (415) 859-3919
Menlo Park, California				        FAX: (415) 859-4175 
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: paulf@halcyon.com (Paul Forgey)
Subject: Re: CENTER CHANNELS
Organization: Northwest Nexus Inc. (206) 455-3505
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 04:32:49 GMT

erich.lim@cutting.hou.tx.us (Erich Lim)  writes:

>  Well, since you have a 91' Accord, I wouldn't think it's too hard to
>put in a center channel.  You could put in 1" tweeters behind the
>rear-view mirror, but I don't think that's the best way.  I personally
>think the best way is to put it in the dash.  In the middle of the dash
>(on top of the A/C/ vent, in front of the clock), there's that little
>section that is receeded.  You could cut it out, put in a 3 1/2"
>midrange, run it with a 50w amp, cover the cut out with a grill that is
>opaque so the sound will travel through and dye the carpet to factory
>color.  Just sum the L and R channels to get the center channel (I
>think?).  Or you can get one of those Center channel units that does
>everything for you.


>Erich Lim
>  Internet add:  erich.lim@cutting.hou.tx.us

paulf@halcyon.com writes:

The Audio Control ESP-3 is a very nifty unit for seperate amp
centerchannel.  Not only does it take care of the summing for you, it
also does adjustable phasing at different frequencies to make imaging
most astounding..  check one out at a dealer near you!

                                                                                                                              
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: frankb@chip.tek.com (Frank Borden  436)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Passive L+R network?
Date: 26 Aug 92 15:25:48 GMT
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Beaverton,  OR.

In article <1992Aug26.083939.29291@u.washington.edu> insomnia@carson.u.washington.edu (Ryan Klemmer) writes:
>Anybody out there know of a way to blend the left and right channels
>into mono for use in a subwoofer or center channel using passive 
>components (is it possible)?  If not, what is a good method for 
>actively summing the two channels (in a way that can be built using
>active components, op-amps etc.)?

>Also, does anybody have a schematic for a speaker-level to line-level
>adapter?

>Ryan (insomnia@u.washington.edu)


I am also interested in combining a stereo low level (before amp) signal
to mono. Is this easily done or does it take extensive circuitry? I would
appreciate advise/method/schematics for such a process.

If it matters, this would be done after an active cross-over.


Thanks in advance for any and all info/advise!

Frank
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: ehawrysh@bmers217.bnr.ca (Evan Hawrysh)
Subject: Re: Connections: Head Units -> Amps ?
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Ottawa
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 92 19:44:40 GMT

In article <5216@dove.nist.gov>, keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov (Larry Keys) writes:
|> Can someone tell me, is it really necessary to purchase those
|> expensive RCA phono plugs?  I need at least 16ft of length for my 
|> car, for four head unit outputs.  For Pheonix Gold, StreetWires
|> Monster Cable etc., this would cost at least $80.
|> 
|> Couldn't I use Radio Shack brand cable & RCA jacks, and make my own
|> custom length cable?  If i took this route, should the cable be
|> 2-conductor?
|> 
|> Is there any audible difference between the high priced shielded cable 
|> and a Radio Shack or some other inexpensive brand?
|> 

This is exactly what I did to make my cables. Radio Shack has some nice
shielded cable with an OFC core. I believe they sell it as "speaker cable".
It's pretty cheap for the length you get (it's already precut to about
18 ft), when its on sale.

I also bought some gold-plated RCA's. The end result was a completely
noiseless system. I'm sure they are quite comparable with some of the 
megabuck cables around. Pre-made cables of lesser quality will cost about the
same as the separate route mentioned here, but then you won't get the joy of
building them yourself.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Evan Hawrysh VE3MAN					"Sweatin' like steam and you can feel
	Bell-Northern Research				the flow when I'm rollin', in my 5.0"
	Ottawa, Ontario												- Vanilla Ice
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: john@bnr.ca (John Ledford)
Subject: Re: Orion 225HCCA or PPI 2075AM
Organization: Bell Northern Research Inc.
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 15:42:53 GMT

In article <Eea2Y4200VotM8q1Iz@andrew.cmu.edu> Amit Likhyani <al1x+@andrew.cmu.edu> writes:

>I want a dedicated sub woofer amp(rather than bridging the 2 rear
>channels on my PPI 4100AM).  I have narrowed it down to a PPI
>2075 or an Orion 225 HCCA.  Unfortunately, I have 2 8 ohm woofers.


>A big advantage for the Orion is the fact that it only costs you 50
>watts when you compete versus 150 on the PPI.  Kind of like a salary cap
>I guess.


Do NOT buy any ORION amplifiers !!!! Why you ask ?? Well, I am the un-pround
owner of two (and used to own another one) of those pieces O' junk. I was 
told that the amp I traded blew up completely a year after we traded. I had 
traded for another ORION amp and it blew up also. And I also bought the 
ORION 425HCCA amp and it blew up also. I swore that I would _NEVER_ buy 
another ORION amp. On the other hand I have bought a PPI amp and I love it 
to death because it is the only piece of stereo equipment that has not given 
me any trouble.

my .02$ worth

john

--
DISCLAIMER: My bosses and ect. have no idea what I am doing or what
I have done. Anything I post is strictly my opinions and do not
reflect anything about Northern Telecom, Bell Northern Research, or
any of the other subsidiaries of the northern tel family.

P.S.- I CANNOT recieve email here. I do have an account where I can but
I do not check it very often. It is jpledfor@eos.ncsu.edu
From: dlambert@eng.auburn.edu (Dave Lambert)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Enclosure volume?
Date: 25 Aug 92 20:04:28 GMT
Organization: Auburn University Engineering

In article <17dl27INNi4u@network.ucsd.edu> simon@ivem.uucp (Simon Lee) writes:
>
>Can someone tell me what the dimensions or total volume necessary for two
>10" subs, specifically RockFord Fosgates.  I want them in their own
>compartments.  I'm not too sure of the terminology, what is a "2nd order" box?
>
>thanks for the help.
>
>-- 
>*   Simon Lee              *   Microscopy and Imaging Resource          *
>*   simon@ivem.ucsd.edu    *   Intermediate Voltage Electron Microscopy *
>*   sulee@ucsd.edu         *   UC San Diego, Dept. of Neuroscience      *
>-------------------------------------------------------------------------

Well, when I built my sealed box with 2 Rockford Fosgate Punch 10's, I
was informed by an installer at a local (reputable) dealer to build
the box with 1.5 ft^3 per sub.  Well, I built the thing with 3/4"
plywood and a good bit of liquid nail to seal it and it sounds pretty
good.  It does has a tendancy to be a bit "boomy", but then I like it
that way.

Hope this helps....


Dave

dlambert@eng.auburn.edu

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
From: paul@tivoli.UUCP (Paul Greenspan)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Detachable Face Plates
Date: 3 Sep 92 13:40:49 GMT
Article-I.D.: tivoli.3750
Reply-To: paul@tivoli.com (Paul Greenspan)
Organization: TIVOLI Systems

Hi,

I just had a Sony 5180 CD player installed in my '93 Saturn.  I really like
the player and the fact that it has a detachable face plate.  However,
I'm now concerend that taking the face plate on and off all of the time is
going to wear out the contacts.  

I'd like to get people's experiences with detachable face plates.  How long
have you had one and how often do you remove it.

I didn't get the extended warranty coverage, but I might change my mind if
I think that I'll be having problems.

Thanks in advance,
Paul
-- 
Paul Greenspan              paul@tivoli.com 
Tivoli Systems              6034 West Courtyard, Suite 210
Austin, Texas  78730        (512) 794-9070  /  FAX (512) 794-0623
From: mitch@lsil.com (Mitch Sako)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Sony CD Changers and skipping
Date: 26 Aug 92 21:15:28 GMT
Reply-To: mitch@lsil.com
Organization: LSI Logic Corporation

In article 6598@erg.sri.com, nakayama@erg.sri.com (Dave Nakayama) writes:
>I have a home CD Changer, so I'd decided to get a Sony 10-Disc system for
>my car to use the same cartridges.  So I hopped over to a local dealer, and
>this is what he told me:
>"We will sell you a Sony if you want one, but I'd advise against it.  We are
>a licensed Sony dealer, so if you twist my arm, I'll install one for you. But
>we've had a lot of problems with the Sony units skipping.  So I'd advise you 
>to get another system, like Kenwood..."
>me:  "But doesn't Sony make Kenwood CD players?"
>
>"They used to, but after complaints about the skipping, Kenwood decided to
>part with Sony.  Now they have an excellent and small 10-disc changer which
>to my knowledge hasn't had any skipping problems so far."
>Is there any truth to this?  I was all set to get a Sony CD changer for my
>car, but now I'm starting to look at Alpine, Denon, and others.

I think he was feeding you a line of s**t.  I have one in my full-sized
Chevy 4x4 pickup and my Sony has NEVER skipped, ever in the year that I`ve
been using it.  That includes some off-road, many railroad crossings, considerable
dips and potholes, and probably most impressively, speedbumps.

Mine is mounted behind the seat (effectively in the middle of the vehicle) and
not in the trunk so I'm not sure if this has much to do with it.  The big
test is going over speedbumps and mine works fine.

I bought mine mailorder from JR Music World.

---

====================================================================
Mitch Sako	LSI Logic Corp.		Phone	408-433-4187
internet:	msako@lsil.com		FAX	408-433-8796
uucp:		lsil!msako
RIME:		->REDBARON, conference=POLITICS
Disclaimer:	Opinions expressed are mine and only mine and do
		not reflect the opinions of my organization, my
		management, or my mother
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: blaine@garfield.catt.ncsu.edu (Greyland Blaine Mull)
Subject: I tried new stuff!
Organization: Computer and Technologies Theme Program, NCSU, Raleigh
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1992 15:56:41 GMT

hello world\n

	Throughout my 6 years of serious car audio I have been a
dedicated comsumer to several companies, being Rockford, Blaupunkt, and
Stillwater designs.  Well, this was the summer of change and I only
remained true to Blaupunkt.  
	I have NEVER considered Alpine to make decent amps, but I was
really impressed by a few systems that I heard this summer and I
purchased a 3548 to replace my punch 75.  WOW - what a
difference...cleaner throughout the music spectrum for sure...more
punchy bass! - and it only cost $259.  I am using it as my only source
of amplification for now, in a total passive system - but that is about
to change shortly.
	Another product that I really fell in love with was SAS's
bazookas.  I got some of these and they really out perform every other
sub system that I have ever had which include:
	-pairs of 8" freeair, sealed and ported
	-single 10" sealed, and ported
	-single 12" 7th order DCDV bandpass
Maybe what matches so to good is that the bazooka is tuned to 39Hz and
Alpine's acoustic compensation is at 40Hz.
	I did remain loyal to Blaupunkt as I said earlier.  After my
Portland SQR28 was stolen last May here at school, I replaced it with an
Aspen CD42 pullout CD receiver.  Just a word guys....If you have a
pullout, then for goodness sake PULL IT OUT!!!!!  I hardly ever did this
with my pullout tape deck(Portland), and some thief decided they would
break out my windows and pull-it-out for me...how thoughtfull!  But even
through this my insurance company REALLY did me right - they got me a
pullout CD.
	I am now looking for a compoment system for my front instead of
the Rockford seperates that I am using now.  Being familiar with the
Boston Acoustic Pro series, MB Quart sets, and Pioneer's new stuff, I 
just
wondered it anyone out there in net-land has any input in the area of
seperates.

Oh well, I guess I just wanted people to go and try new stuff once in a
while.  There is quite a bit of really good equipment out there these
days. And, one more thing PULL OUT THAT PULL-OUT!!


-grey

 

 Grey Mull	       +Disclamer:  I didn't say it,-+  Macintosh
 blaine@catt.ncsu.edu  |   You didn't see me say it, |       to
 gbmull@eos.ncsu.edu   +---You can't prove anything!-+      NeXT...
NC State CATT Program				Steve Jobs continues...