HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: davallen@vms.macc.wisc.edu
Subject: Re:      Re: How do I discourage woodpeckers?
Organization:  University of Wisconsin Academic Computing Center
Distribution:  world
Date: 29 SEP 92 11:21:50    

In article <94066FBD602076A1@PLU.BITNET>,         "LARRY NELSON, writes...

>>Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 12:59:21 GMT
>>From: "(warren.a.montgomery)" <warren@CBNEWSH.CB.ATT.COM>
>>Subject: How do I discourage woodpeckers?
>>
>>My mother recently moved into a new condo with wooden trim made
>>from rough sawn lumber (cedar, I think), that has either been
>>stained with a heavy stain or painted with thin paint.
>>Unfortunately, the neighborhood woodpeckers have taken an
>>irresistable liking to one post on her porch (actually it's just
>>trim over a metal pole, so it's not a structural problem).
> 
>        I have experienced this problem with rentals which I
>used to own.  There, they attacked the beveled siding in the
>gable ends of the units and pecked 2" diam. holes clear through
>so they could get into the attic insulaton to build a nest.
>Discouraging them is very difficult.  The only method which
>worked effectively was using a 22 caliber rifle loaded with
>tiny "shot shells" (very tiny birdshot with a limited range).
>I finally succeeded (after having warned all tenants) in picking
>one off the gable end of the building.  Unfortunately, this
>effective (if you're patient enough) solution is practical
>and safe in only a limited number of settings.  There are
>companies which sell various kinds of spiked deflectors, noise
>devices, etc. which are used in commercial settings to scare
>away swallows, pigeons, etc.  But they simply cause the birds
>to move on to another location and are only practical for
>certain applications.  I finally gave up damage repair
>(after having my new work pecked apart the following year)
>and just began to cover the damage with sheet metal as
>best I could.
>        Good luck.
>                Larry W. Nelson, Pacific Lutheran University

Since I'm in the midst of building a log home right now, & there are a lot
of woodpeckers in the neighborhood, I've been concerned about this too.  I
don't have any "for sure" answers, but one thing I heard recently that
is supposed to work is to put up an owl decoy (these are sold in sporting
goods places for use in crow hunting).  Apparently the owl is supposed
to scare away the wood peckers.  This is only hearsay, but it might be 
worth the cost of a decoy to try it out...

	Dave Allen
	Space Science & Engr. Ctr.
	UW-Madison
From: stevep@lugh.se.hou.compaq.com (Steve Pinn)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Routers for router table : Opinions Wanted
Date: 29 Sep 92 22:25:55 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Compaq Computer Corporation

In article <1992Sep29.205908.22047@adobe.com>, bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds) writes:
|> M19120@mwvm.mitre.org writes
|> > I have a Bosch 1604 router (not a plunge router) mounted
|> > to a Woodhaven lexan router base. The simple height adjustment
|> > on the 1604 makes adjustment easy when the router is in the table.
|> >  
|> > To add plunge routing capabilities I purchased a Porter Cable plunge
|> > router base which the motor assembly of the 1604 slides into.  So far
|> > this has been a satifactory solution to having an easily adjustable
|> > table mounted router that can be converted into a free hand plunge
|> > router.
|> >  
|> > The cost of this set up is not to bad:
|> > Bosch 1604 - $110
|> > Porter Cable plunge base - $75
|> >  
|> > The ideal system would be one with all of the functionality listed
|> > above along with a variable speed router - for panel raising etc.
|> 
|> This *is* a good setup. Some people prefer the PC router motor instead of 
|> the Bosch, but they're quite close. But, as my friend Joel Gringorten points 
|> out, the *ideal* system involves me than one router. A router big enough to 
|> handle panel raising bits is too awkward to comfortably use with small bits
|> for inlay work, for instance. But, buying a second router starts running
|> into bigger dollar outlays than the two-base single-motor stragedy, which
|> gets you the most bang for your buck.
|> 
|> Since the size and weight of the router doesn't matter when mounted in
|> a table, and since any panel raising type of work you might do should
|> be done with the table mounted router, I'd recommend getting a big
|> electronic variable speed router for the table. For hand-held use a 
|> mid-range sized router is as big as you need. I want something big
|> enough to plunge cut 1/2" wide mortises, but nimble enough to put a
|> 1/16" spiral bit on for inlay work. Joel feels that a third router,
|> like a small laminate trimmer, is really ideal, but I haven't liked
|> any laminate trimmer's depth adjustment mechanism.
|> 
|> I've got a 2 HP Bosch plunger that weighs about 10 pounds for hand-held
|> use, but still haven't decided on the big table-mounted monster, but the
|> big non-plunge PC looks nice. The big Elu has a secondary depth ring,
|> which means the motor isn't trapped in a spiral groove and so falls out 
|> when used upside down. Bummer.
|> 
|> BTW, variable speed is handy for more than just panel raising. When
|> cutting deep mortises, slowing the router down a bit seems to reduce
|> the chance of burning and overall just feels better when cutting.
|> 
|> - Bennett Leeds
|
I'd like to second Bennett's comments on a laminate trimmer.  He is correct in his mention of depth control for fine work.  I use one that has a chamfering bit almost permanently installed.  When it's time to knock off a sharp edge a laminate trimmer is light easy to maneuver and usually more accurate than the inexpensive chamfering planes.

Steve
From: stetzer@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Frank Stetzer)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: D handled routers? Pros & Cons?
Date: 6 Oct 1992 19:02:41 GMT
Organization: Computing Services Division, University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: 129.89.7.4
Originator: stetzer@csd4.csd.uwm.edu

>From: wesw@hpmwtd.sr.hp.com (Wes Whiteley)
>Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 23:17:17 GMT
>Subject: D handled routers? Pros & Cons?
>Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
>Lines: 15
>
>
>I would like to get peoples opinions and experiences with using "D" handle
>routers vs. standard routers.  Are there any reasons (other than personal 
>preference) for one type over the other?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Wes Whiteley
>
>wesw@sr.hp.com
>(707) 577-5292
>
===========================================================================
I bought a D-handled Bosch 1606 about a year ago (my first router) and
wish I had got something else.  While the D handle is sort of nice for
hand-held routing, I find I do about 9/10 of my work with a router table.
Unlike the usual knobs or handles which attach to the router about 1 inch
above the base, the bottom of the D handle on this one is almost level
with the base.  This means you have to have a very odd shaped hole
in your router table in which to mount the thing, like a keyhole shape.

Check this aspect out before you get a D handled router.  When I get a 
few bucks ahead I'm going to get a Porter-Cable base for it.  

Other than this, the router works fine.

===============================================================================
Frank Stetzer                                        stetzer@convex.csd.uwm.edu
Statistical Software Coordinator                     P.O. Box 413
Computing Services Division                          Milwaukee, WI 53201
University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee                  (414)-229-4571




Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: kent@lightnin.Columbia.NCR.COM (Kent Richardson)
Subject: Plans for drafting table
Originator: kent@lightnin
Organization: NCR Corp, E&M-Columbia, Columbia, SC
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 92 16:58:15 GMT

I am looking for plans to make a drafting table. If anyone can give me a
reference I would appreciate it. Thanks in advance !!!!!



_____________________________________________________________________________

	Kent Richardson				In-circuit Test Engineer
	Surface Mount Operations Center
	kent@lightnin.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM	NCR MCPD Columbia
	Phone (803) 739-6162			3325 Platt Springs Road
                              umbia, S.C. 29170

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: doshay@ursa.arc.nasa.gov (David Doshay)
Subject: Re: Power Miter Saw recommendations and Dust Collection tidbits.
Organization: NASA-Ames Biocomputation Center
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 16:52:14 GMT

I cannot say enough good things about my Hitachi 8" sliding compound
miter saw. The only thing I will add is that whenever I decide to hire
a carpenter for a job I am not in the mood to do, they ALWAYS see that saw
and use it. One guy saw the saw after submitting his bid, and when he spotted
the saw said he would throw in an extra (unexpected) $150 of material cost
if he could use the Hitachi.

It is great for everything from fine moulding and trim work to building decks.

David		doshay@soma.arc.nasa.gov

The thought police insist I tell you:
my thoughts, not NASA's
From: IRMTAQA2@SIVM.BITNET (Bill McGeehan)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Router Tables
Date: 5 Oct 92 13:22:51 GMT
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Comments:     Converted from PROFS to RFC822 format by PUMP V2.2

From:    Bill McGeehan
I bought a 3.5 HP router to raise panels, then built a table. I added a lexan
base, but the hole is not as big as my panel raising bit. In fact, the opening
in the router base is slightly smaller too! It seems like the bit needs to be
exactly flush with the base, but this risks tearing up the lexan. If I widen
the hole (which I'm not sure how to do) I'm not sure if I'll weaken the base
so much that it won't hold the router, which is quite heavy (Freud FT2000). Has
 anyone else solved this problem?

Bill McGeehan
OIRM Computer Security Manager
Smithsonian Institution
IRMTAQA2@SIVM   (202) 633-9035
From: thomas@BAEPV3.NCSU.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Makita TableSaw
Date: 29 Sep 92 15:23:30 GMT
Reply-To: thomas@BAEPV3.NCSU.EDU
Organization: North Carolina State University



Bill,

I have had Makitas 8 1/4" tablesaw for about 2 years now, and think it
to be a very good tool ... for some things.  It's light enough to throw
in the back of a pickup with a few other tools and take it to almost 
any job site with 110v.  It has enough power when used with a thin 
kerf blade to rip 2" maple and oak.  And, IMHO, you can do fairly 
accurate work with it. But..

the table is small, the rip fence is hard to get parallel to the blade (or
to the miter slot, if you like), it doesn't accept standard 3/4" x 3/8"
miter slot attachments, it's table is an aluminum alloy (nonmagnetic), 
and as is the case with most higher power universal motors, it is NOISY.

I didn't call that last paragraph disadvantages, because for some people
and some situations they might be just the ticket.  But to use it as 
the primary tablesaw for a nice furniture shop is probably not a good
idea.

I'm using the saw in one of those folding tables that you set the saw into, 
and that has a better rip fence which gives you about 26" rip capacity to
the right of the blade.

Their other saw is a 10" sliding table tablesaw that I have never seen.


Scot Thomas thomas@bae.ncsu.edu
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-VMS-To: IN%"WOODWORK%IPFWVM.BITNET@pucc.Princeton.EDU"
MIME-version: 1.0
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 29 Sep 1992 07:50:40 -0800
From:         RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM
Subject:      Re: Dust Collection with Delta's Contractor's Saw

My ex-father-n-law fited a cardboard box under his contractors saw for
the dust to drop into. The opening of the box mated pretty well to the
bottom of the saw and the whole thing worked supprisingly well.

Or

Insted of a shop vac (low volume, high sucction; how about a back-yard leaf
vacume (high volume, low sucction) ?

                          Ron Tye (all opinions my own)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: developed vs rated hp
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 22:21:17 GMT

Howard Wilson writes
> Yes, I think all of us should band together and write a nasty letter
> to the marketing folks at tool companies who insist on advertising 
> their products like this.  Every time I see this word "developes" before
> a HP rating my blood boils! 

What happens to your blood pressure when you see a drill press with an
8" swing advertised as a 16" drill press?

What about rpm ratings that are always "no-load rpms"?

What about 3/4" plywood that is really 23/32" thick (although I thought I
read that this measurement was now going to be standardized and
advertised as such)?

What about workbenches whose length is usually given with the tail
vise in the open position (meaning you get about 10" of empty vise
space added on)?

Any others?
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: millios@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (william.l.millios)
Subject: Re: Miscellaneous Questions...
Organization: AT&T
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 19:17:09 GMT

In article <1992Oct2.163519.25316@informix.com> davek@informix.com (David Kosenko) writes:
>In article <8090013@hpfcdc.fc.hp.com> rer@hpfcdc.fc.hp.com (Rob Robason) writes:
>>I have a few general questions:
>>
>>1) Norm (NYWS) uses a combo phillips driver/countersink, apparently
>>    slipping the countersink over the hex phillips driver.  This is a
>>    really slick tool that I've looked for in my local stores to no
>>    avail.  Anyone have any ideas about where to get this?
>
>ON a This Old House episode, Steve and Norm were in the NYW putting something
>or else together for the project, and Norm whipped out that little gadget.
>Steve says something along the lines of `that's pretty slick, where can I get
>one,' to which Norm explains that a fan of the show sent it to him, and that
>he hasn't seen one anywhere himself.  This was from an older season, so
>something similar may be on the market by now (I haven't seen one).
>

I've seen that in one of my catalogs.  Hmm.  If I had to guess (I
get *tons* of catalogs) I'd say it's from the people who make the 
square drive screws...  They do have some regular stuff in there
for the phillips holdouts.

Other catalogs I get: Garret Wade, Woodcraft, Woodworking Supply,
and some others I don't order from.

Try calling the 800 numbers associated with each, and see if you can
track it down.  I *know* I've seen it in a catalog, thought it was
pretty slick (like Steve), but can't remember where.  Maybe my
musings will help somebody else remember.

Bill
From: roche@cs.rochester.edu (James Roche)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Changes to Frequently Asked rec.woodworking questions
Date: 1 Oct 92 12:34:42 GMT
Expires: 5 Nov 92
Organization: Computer Science Department University of Rochester
Frequency: monthly

185a186
> 	Rumor has it that oven cleaner also works.
301c302,304
< 	f.  Leave items unfinished.
---
> 	g.  Rumor has it that shellac is also safe once it dries. I have
> 	    been unable to verify this.
> 	h.  Leave items unfinished.
-- 
Jim Roche
roche@cs.rochester.edu
University of Rochester Computer Science Department Rochester, NY 14627
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Biscuit Jointers and Random Orbital Sanders
Date: 2 Oct 92 16:43:48 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

In article <DAVIDR.92Oct1233250@rookie.cadence> davidr@rookie.cadence (Dave Rich; x6337) writes:
>I've been looking at biscuit jointers and random orbital sanders and
>have noticed that they are basical the same thing as an angle grinder
>with a permanent biscuit jointer or random orbital sander attachment.
>Is this true? Has anyone removed the factory installed attachment to
>get to the basic angle grinder.
>
>I would like to buy one power tool and one attachment, instead of two
>power tools (three, counting the angle grinder)

I have seen at least 2 kits that allow you to use an angle grinder as the
basis for a biscuit cutter (one at Sears, one at Home Depot).  I also
seem to recall seeing a device that allowed you to turn an angle grinder
into a ROS (I'm not 100% on this one) - some sort of cam attachment.
I'd check around first, but based on this I'd be inclined to go for
an angle grinder and look for the other attachments.

Dave
-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
The heart and the mind on a parallel course, never the two shall meet.
						-E. Saliers
From: auidcc@ducvax.auburn.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Hatachi C8FB price ?
Date: 27 Sep 92 20:58:28 GMT
Organization: Auburn University, AL

I am going to order a Hatachi C8FB mitre sas in the next day or two.
What mail-order supplier has the best price on it now?  

Thanks,

Steve
From: bartnik@acsu.buffalo.edu (David Bartnik)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Window glazing
Date: 1 Oct 92 12:53:17 GMT
Organization: State University of New York at Buffalo/Comp Sci

I'm in the process of repairing a few windows around my house before
winter and I have yet to learn the secret of applying glazing to the
windows without it sticking to my fingers and putty knife. Hardly any
of the glazing sticks to the window and what does looks awful. I've 
tried applying it warm and cold and nothing seems to work.  Any help
would be appreciated.


Dave Bartnik
From: spelce@siri.llnl.gov (    Tom Spelce              )
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: General vs. Powermatic
Keywords: general, powermatic
Date: 6 Oct 92 14:54:12 GMT

I don't think you could go wrong with either saw ... Both
are well made. 

The major difference between the two is
the tilt of the blade. Since I do most of my ripping with the
fence on the right side of the blade, I'd give the safety
edge to the Powermatic. I bought the 66 because, at the time,
there was no General dealer in Northern California. 

Try Tarheel Filing in NC.  They sell both Powermatic and General
and I believe they still have a warehouse or shipping facility
in Portland, OR. 

Tom
From: rcbi27@marshall.wvnet.edu (DBRUM)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Smoothing a concave arc
Date: 29 Sep 92 22:57:29 GMT
Organization: Marshall University

In article <1992Sep25.135732.7123@ryn.mro4.dec.com>, vesper@2plot.reo.dec.com (Andy Vesper) writes:
> 
> I>Subject: Re: Smoothing a concave arc
 
>>You might try a rasp. I've used them alot for convex and
>> concave curves,

> How about a surform tool? These come in all shapes and sizes
> (file-like and plane-like and at least one with a convex curve 
> good for cutting concave curves) and have a shaped, sharpened sole 
> of flexible steel. I think that this type of tool leaves a nicer 
> surface than a rasp does. However, the rasp may work better
> in  hardwood than a surform tool would.
> However, when I made a headboard (out of cherry) with a curve, I used 
> that as an excuse to buy a spokeshave.   This worked well
> except for a problem with chatter that I couldn't decide if it was
> my technique or how well (poorly) I sharpened the iron.

I've never tried a surform in hardwood, either. I know they are not as
agressive as a rasp, though, and I'd imagine they'd cause chatter going
against the grain since the little cutting edges do lift and cut like
other blade tools. But, true enough, a rasp leaves far from a finished
surface. Probably a drum sander or the nose of a belt sander are the two
easiest and quickest methods.

--danny
-- 
	"Were his solid black square paintings really,
	as the artist claimed, simply neutral, abstract
	compositions devoid of external references and
	meanings?" ***********************************
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: holtt@OCE.ORST.EDU (Tim Holt)
Subject: Re: How do I bend an oak 4x4?
Organization: College of Oceanography, Oregon State Univ
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 16:31:48 GMT

In article <dnsurber.718036807@node_26400> dnsurber@lescsse.jsc.nasa.gov (Douglas N. Surber) writes:
>
>I want to make two curved 4" diameter beams, 80" long...

I can't remenber the issue, but in the last several years, Fine
Homebuilding had an article about curved beams.  It showed an example of
bending a large beam with a large steam box, lots of clamps, etc.  It
would be worth looking into, as I seem to recall that it mentioned some
things such as how much to overbend the beam, so that when it springs
back slightly it will be at the right radius.

-Tim Holt
From: wack@ariel.ncsl.nist.gov (John Wack)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Table saws...and rust
Date: 1 Oct 92 12:39:55 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: National Institute of Standards & Technology

In article <lcjqh0INN63t@jethro.Corp.Sun.COM> pdixon@aslan.eng.sun.com (Peter Dixon, Sun Software Product Support) writes:
>I'm currently shopping for a table saw.  (My intended use is cabinetry
>with, no doubt, some rough carpentry work thrown in as well.)  I've
>narrowed my choices to the Delta Contractor's saw w/Unifence, or the
>Ryobi BT3000.  
>
>Once prime advantage of the Ryobi, for my purposes, is its cast aluminum
>table.  (I live in the Santa Cruz mountains of California; in the winter
>it's essentially a rain forest, very high humidity.)  On the other hand,
>after looking at the saw, I'm concerned about the unusual miter gauge --
>it seemed rather prone to slipping away from the angle desired.
>
>The Delta has the advantage of being some sort of "standard."  But...
>I'm worried about rust.  Can anyone suggest a treatment that will
>alleviate the rust issue, and not mess up the wood being worked?
>
>General comments on the relative merits of the two saws will also be
>appreciated.
>
>peter

Peter, I'm sure that many people will reply to this.  I have the (much
aligned) Delta 10" Motorized saw, but this saw has, I believe, the same
cast iron top as the Contractors.  While you aren't asking for this 
advice, I'll still strongly encourage you to go the route of the Delta 
Contractors saw, if that and the Ryobi are your only two choices.  Options
like fences and safety devices will be easier to add and in more plentiful
supply if you go with the Delta -- I'm not wild about my Motorized, but it
at least has "standard" fittings.  In short, you'll be able to "add on" 
more easilty if you go with the Delta, and the cost of the two are about
the same.  

As far as the top and rust, I live in fairly humid Germantown MD near D.C.
and am one of those purists who rarely runs the AC - my "shop" is in the
basement, where it is somewhat damp.  I've never had any problems with rust
as long as I apply a very light coat of paste wax to the top from time to
time, like every couple of months.  The top rusted once when one of my kids
left a wet sponge there for a couple of weeks -- I sanded the top again, put
another coat of wax, and it's as good as new.  In summary, then, I wouldn't
let the possibility of rust stop you from buying the Delta.

Good luck,
John Wack
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking