HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: c23st@kocrsv01.delcoelect.com (Spiros Triantafyllopoulos)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Whining about buying American cars
Date: 19 Nov 92 14:25:04 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Delco Electronics Corp.

In article <2179@shaman.wv.tek.com> andrew@frip.wv.tek.com writes:
>[]
>
>	"For comparable products I prefer my money to go and put food
>	on some kid from Detroit's table rather than be used somewhere
>	else."
>
>Let's drag it out into the sunlight.  You'd rather help feed a kid from
>Detroit than a kid from Tsutsumi.  Is this not racism?

The Tsunamian government probably pays for the Tsunamian child's welfare,
school, health care, etc. The US government pays for the Detroit child.

I pay taxes in the US. (now, if taxes in Tsunami were lower :-))

Spiros
-- 
Spiros Triantafyllopoulos                    c23st@kocrsv01.delcoelect.com
Software Technology, Delco Electronics       (317) 451-0815
GM Hughes Electronics, Kokomo, IN 46904      [A Different Kind of Disclaimer]
Xref: sparky rec.autos:26884 rec.autos.tech:15478
From: rteasdal@polyslo.csc.calpoly.edu (Rusty)
Newsgroups: rec.autos,rec.autos.tech
Subject: Slick 50 in aluminum engine?
Date: 16 Nov 92 07:01:49 GMT
Organization: Cal Poly San Luis Obispo, CSc Department


	Okay, auto.wizards, ponder this one:

	My '91 Nissan NX 2000 (greatly beloved) is now in the low
twenties on accumulated mileage, and the engine seems to have broken
in quite nicely. Now's the time I plan to start treating it very well
indeed; I generally adhere to the 3000 mile oil change regimen except
under trying circumstances.

	I'd planned to add a quart of Slick 50 at the next oil and
filter change, the first one ever. I've heard arguments both pro and
con with regard to such additives - suffice it to say that I am at
the least willing to try it (and to _document_ whether or not there 
are increases in mileage, et al.!)

	However, I had a conversation over the weekend which gave me
pause. I spoke with a man who was a former Toyota service manager,
now retired, who claims that Slick 50 and other such treatments are
largely useless in engines with aluminum block and heads (such as
mine), apocryphally because of surface treating applied to the metal
surfaces to prevent heat damage. I was skeptical, but he was quite
insistent, claiming to have seen a study by the SAE or some such.

	Any comment? Sounds like bullshit to me. I mean, PTFE does
wet aluminum frying plans quite nicely...




-- 
||||||||   Russ Teasdale -- rteasdal@polyslo.CalPoly.EDU  --  (Rusty)  ||||||||
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"Gentlemen, if we do not succeed, then we run the risk of failure." - D. Quayle
Newsgroups: rec.autos,misc.consumers.house
From: boggs@agps.lanl.gov (Marsha topgun/ne)
Subject: hard water spots
Organization: A-10, LANL
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 17:21:48 GMT


This may be a faq, but I don't read this newsgroup and I didn't see one
so here goes:

	How do you get the hard water spots off vehicles?  We had a
	car that had them very bad and were never able to get them off.
	We now have a new surburban and had been drying is off after
	each washing, but didn't just once and now have water spots on
	the glass and of course paint.  So how does one remove them?

I am cross-posting this to misc.consumers.house since I also have
hard water spots on my home's windows that also need removing and
there might be some help there.


--Marsha
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                     boggs@agps.lanl.gov (505) 665-6606
Los Alamos National Laboratory, P.O. Box 1663  MS J488  Los Alamos, NM 87545
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: rat@erg.sri.com (Ray Trent)
Subject: Re: FLAME! Only a Manual!
Reply-To: rat@erg.sri.com (Ray Trent)
Organization: SRI International, Menlo Park, CA
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 92 23:58:07 GMT

In the referenced article, mshar@mentor.cc.purdue.edu (Mike Mshar) writes:
>The only problem with this is that it doesn`t function during acceleration.
>So, if you have the pedal on the floor, you still get power losses that are
>associated with automatics. The only time the lock-up converter works is
>when the transmission is in high gear and the car is at a cruising
>condition. So, for acceleration purposes, there is not gain.

Yes, well, the numbers aren't that easy. The other thing the torque
converter does is *convert torque*. The RPMs of an auto-equipped
vehicle pump up into the higher HP producing range much faster than on
a manual *unless you thrash the clutch*.
-- 
"When you're down, it's a long way up
 When you're up, it's a long way down
 It's all the same thing
 And it's no new tale to tell"                      ../ray\..
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: RZAA80@email.sps.mot.com (Jim Chott)
Subject: Re: Toyota V8
Organization: Motorola SPS
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 17:34:44 GMT

In article <nataraja.721593331@mica>, nataraja@rtsg.mot.com (Vel Natarajan) writes:
> 
> 
> Anyone know what the LandCruisers had in them?
> -- 
As far as I know, they have always had the big straight 6
in them.  The 91 has a fuel injected version, the 93 is coming
out with a DOHC I-6 with 212hp and 275 ft-lb torque.  My brother
talked to a dealer who said the new T100 truck will have a V-8 
in it by 94.
Jim
From: birchall@pilot.njin.net (Shag)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: HOW TO AVOID HITTING THE WALL IN GARAGE
Keywords: garage
Date: 19 Nov 92 20:07:29 GMT
Organization: Screaming in Digital, the Queensryche Digest

daniels@lmsbv2.tamu.edu (Lee M. Daniels) writes:

>step 3: Hang the ball from the ceiling so that it just touches the center 
>        of your windshield.
>Now, when you enter the garage with the car, STOP when the ball touches the 
>windshield!

My family has taken this one step further... We have a small object [the lid
of a milk-jug, I believe] hanging in the garage so that it hits the radio
antenna on the right side of the hood.  Needless to say, this is a bit harder
to line up, and anyone who successfully parks with the lid against the antenna
is usually given an ovation.  

If we get a car with a trunk-mounted antenna, I guess we'll have to back in.

-Shag

-- 
Shag                    | Operator, ShagNET | Editor of "Screaming in Digital" 
birchall@pilot.njin.net |  Rutgers / NJIN   |  The Queensryche E-mail Digest 
birchall@njin.bitnet    | dialup access for | queensryche-owner@pilot.njin.net
shag@most.other.places  | Burlington County | Anything Queensryche, every week
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: cka52397@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Slartibartfast)
Subject: Re: CONSUMER REPORTS
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 05:58:05 GMT

In article <lglq9kINNs18@exodus.Eng.Sun.COM> tut@cairo.Eng.Sun.COM (Bill "Bill" Tuthill) writes:
>I'm not a CR basher.  We subscribe to CR and find their auto reports
>helpful, if somewhat parochial and middle-of-the-road.  Some examples:
>
>1.  The Mazda Navajo is "more reliable than average" while the Ford
>Explorer has "average reliability", despite the fact that they are the
>same vehicle, made at the same factory.  How could this be?
>
>2.  CR always complains about spare tires underneath the rear of a car,
>because "your hands get dirty".  As someone who has unloaded a trunk
>full of camping gear in the poring rain to get out a spare, I'd say
>under the car is the best place for a spare tire.  Besides, who ever
>had clean hands after changing a tire?

	Things like this are why there _are_ CR bashers on the Net...

	:-)
-- 
"The Clergy Dazzle us with Heaven or they Damn us into Hell"  Billy Bragg!!!!!
IIIII  L    L    IIIII NNNNN IIIII   Chintan Amin c-amin1@uiuc.edu DEPT of E.E.
  I    L    L      I   N   N   I   RUSH	YES FLOYD METALLICA PEARLJAM REM PG
IIIII  LLLL LLLL IIIII N   N IIIII   GO TARHEELS  GO CAPITALS GO COWBOYS 
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: vjd11@cbnewsj.cb.att.com (virgil.j.duncan)
Subject: Re: Whining about buying American cars
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 18:25:48 GMT
Summary: is this a joke?

In article <1992Nov14.163136.24473@lmpsbbs.comm.mot.com>, kiel_jeff@macmail1.rtsg.mot.com writes:
> I am really getting sick and tired of all the whining by those who say that it
> is patriotic to buy American cars.  I own a Japanese car and am as American as
> anyone else.  I pay taxes, watch baseball once in a while and like apple pie
> but I do not drive a Chevy.  What really makes me mad is that I can come up

You're right - it maybe a greater loss for this country you go abroad and work
somewhere else than you'd buy every few years a japanese car.
> 
> 1.  Japanese cars are more economical.  If you can save money on repairs and

Not necessarily true; If you compare latest models apples for apples the
american are more economic - my 1990 Bonneville with a 3.8 V6 runs 27mpg
on the highway - neither V6 from Honda/Toyota/Nissan can reach that
(usually they are 8-12% lower)
GM four's are in general more economical while Ford and Chrysler are about
the same compared with similar japanese engines/cars.
> 
> 2.  Buying a Japanese car puts money into the American economy.  Let's say you
> are buying a $20,000 luxury Japanese car.  The salesman certainly makes money
> on this deal.  Let's say he gets a $200 commission on the deal.  Before your

Go and read some economics - you sound ignorant!

80% true. Do not forget you are part of this American economy; if some of it
shrinks or folds YOU will pay more taxes for the people who get unemployed.
For comparable products I prefer my money to go and put food on some
kid from Detroit table rather than be used somewhere else, even if this
money buys US government debt, or it is re-invested here.
> 
> an Eagle Talon is not.  See?  Some Japanese cars are even cooler than others. 
> Look at the Acura line.  This is definitely a cool line of cars.  Take the
> Integra.  So what if its just a Honda Civic with different body panels at twice

This shows imaturity. It is "cool" because of the trend, or because of
peer pressure. Try to think beyond your next weekend.

Jeff!
You work for Motorola - Try to think a minute what will happen to your
life if guys like me will not consider first buying from you
cellular systems, computer systems and components.
Even in the service sector your job won't last too long!!

If you single and no responsibilities, obviously no big deal - you move from
coast to coast, but if you are not try to think of it.
A reliable car is good to have but you also have to think on people
beyond your immediate family and friends.

virgil duncan


> all, they were making bad cars anyway - they do not deserve to work!  Second,
> they are going to collect unemployment anyway.  They can spend this money on
> the economy which will definitely HELP the U.S. economy.  Eventually they will
> find one of those new "service" jobs like working at McDonald's.  Besides, if
From: alan@lancaster.nsc.com (The Hepburn)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Experiences with Pickups
Date: 23 Nov 92 17:36:26 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: National Semiconductor Corporation

In article <RZAA80-201192144538@222.18.80.28>, RZAA80@email.sps.mot.com (Jim Chott) writes:
|> In article <1992Nov20.162341.2189@nosc.mil>, koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil
|> (Walter A. Koziarz) wrote:
|> > 
|> >actually, the Navistar lacks the *torque* of the Cummins, as does virtually >any other passenger-vehicle engine...  400lb-ft @ 1700rpm is nothing short of
|> >wonderful... the Navistar has more horsepower...
|> 
|> 
|> The Navistar in the Ford (7.3 liter version) puts out 345lb-ft @ 1400rpm, 
|> and about 185 horsepower @ 3400rpm.
|> True, not quite what the Cummins has, but a good engine nonetheless.
|> However, the comment about the rest of the truck not able to handle it
|> is true.  Rear is okay, but I went through 2 front axles, one front
|> differential, one front driveshaft, and the radiator core support,
|> (sheetmetal cracked up).  This is with heavy 4WD use.  The Dodge
|> has much heavier drivetrain throughout, and I would recommend it
|> over the Ford.
|> 
|> 

I'll have to check my manual when I get home, but I seem to remember that it
notes 385 lb-ft at 1400 rpm, and not 345.  Your woes with the drive train seem
to indicate a weakness with the 4WD components, not a weakness with those
components connected to the Navistar engine.  I would hazard a guess that you
would have had the same problems if you had the 460 gas engine.  As far as
recommending the Dodge over the Ford, it appears to be the case for most
applications, but if you need a combination of a heavy, economical hauler
AND a people mover, you're out of luck looking in the Dodge stable.  Cummins
will not certify the engine for use in a crew cab configuration so if you
need to move up to 6 adult size bodies in FULL comfort the Ford is the only
option.

-- 
Alan Hepburn           "An ignorant person is one who doesn't know
National Semiconductor       what you have just found out."
Santa Clara, Ca              
alan@berlioz.nsc.com                              Will Rogers
From: beuf@wpi.WPI.EDU (Richard J Fuller)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Car Owner Ship Ta x
Date: 16 Nov 1992 13:42:02 GMT
Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: wpi.wpi.edu





I bought a new car in August for $9,450

I just got my local tax bill and it was based on a 
valuation of $10,200..

What right do they have to claim my car is worth more
then it is worth to tax me on a higher value???

Can I take my bill of sales to them and insist paying
the tax based on the actual value not their over inflated
value...


also I was wondering if My insurance Company uses the same
valuation techniques my town does.  meaning if I can buy a car
for 9450, get into a horrible accident where someone else is at 
fault and take their valuation fo 10,200-500(deductible) = 9,700 
a $250 profit for owning the car for a short while????


I really don't mind if my car is 'worth' more then I paid for it
but I am really interested in whre the insurance company and the
tax office get their 'value' from?????


thanks..........
From: MARK@wvnvm.wvnet.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Pathfinder Lease Advertisement
Date: 23 Nov 92 14:03:30 GMT



 In last Fridays USA Today (November 20th) Nissan advertises their
 1993 Pathfinder XE 4WD w/ Sport Package for $299 month on a closed end
 lease.  In reading the fine print for this add, it states the $299 month
 is based on a M.S.R.P of 22,935.00 including freight and destination
 charges, less dealer capital cost reduction of 1,298.00 and a non-refundable
 pre-paid rental reduction of $1,298.00.  Actual captilized cost of
 $20,689.00 includes a non-refundable acquistion fee of $350.00.

 Total of monthly payments 10,764.00. First month payment of $299.00, a
 refundable security deposit equal to one months payment rounded to
 the next $25.00 increment , the non-refundable pre-paid rental deduction
 of 1,289.00. Purchase option may be available at end of lease for $13,302.30


 So if you were to lease this vehicle you would pay the following prior to
 driving it home

                $1,298.00    pre-paid rental-reduction
                $  299.00    1st months payment
                $  324.00    security deposit + $25 increment
               ===========
   Total   =   $1,921       to lease vehicle up front

My question:  Are the numbers in this add concrete, no negotiation allowed
             to lease this vehicle, or are they just used as an example
             to attract customers to think about leasing.  From what I
             have been told by other folks who lease. They only were
             required to pay the first months lease payments and a security
             deposit equal to 1 months payment.  They also were able to
             negotiate the actual selling price of their vehicle prior
             to leasing it.

It would seem to me if I had to pay almost $2,000 to lease this vehicle I
my as well put the $2000 towards a downpayment and flat out buy the vehicle.
(Plus I could negiotiate a price).  In leasing a vehicle to most companies
pay the suggested retail price ?


I would be interested to hear other folks experiences if they ever leased
a vehicle(payments required, were you able to negotiate price, bank leased
or auto makers credit company, etc).

Please mail all responsed to me since our news feed does not always function
correctly (about a week behind).


                           Thanks in advance

                           Mark.
From: wolf@spud.Hyperion.COM (Michael Wolf)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Styling (was Mazda scraps Amati)
Date: 23 Nov 1992 19:53:12 -0800
Organization: Hyperion, Mountain View, CA, USA
NNTP-Posting-Host: spud.hyperion.com

fengxi@prancer.eche.ualberta.ca (Fengxi Zhou) writes:

>Think I read this some time ago: the chief stylist in Mazda wanted to break
>the "Japanese mould" and make the cars sexy, literally.  So he ordered his
>staff to go to the local bars with one sole mission: watch the girls' hips.
>THe reason? When driving, you get a better look at a car just passing by
>than a car about to brush through.  Any one can confirm this?  They
>certainly got some real nice looking rear quaters.  IMHO, 929 looks better
>from the rear (better looking than the current Jaguar XJ-6?)

I remember reading (can't remember where) that Japanese car companies focus
on how a car looks from the front, and that print ads in Japan tend to have
more front views than side views.  In the US, cars tend to be seen from the
side in ads, and the manufactures focus on looks from the side.  Apparently
some of the US design shops had difficulty making the Japanese executives
happy, because the US shops weren't used to making "happy" fronts of cars.
The article said that Japanese tend to think of the lights/grill on the
car as a "face".

Anyone know more about the different approaches design shops take when
coming up with new cars?

Michael Wolf
From: cholette@JSP.UMontreal.CA (Cholette Martin)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: ***********************************HELP NEEDED ************
Date: 22 Nov 92 20:22:13 GMT
Organization: Universite de Montreal

Hello everyone!

 I have a 1988 Honda Civic DX with 1.5 litre engine. My clutch is pretty
 worn out and needs to be replaced. I have a friend who gave me a clutch
 from an 88 civic, he told me that the car had 5000 km when it got scrapped.
 However, I find that the clutch looks pretty thin, But I have no idea how
 thick a clutch should be, I had never seen one until today. Can anyone tell
 me how thick a clutch for my car should be??? That way I can mesure it
 and see how used my spare clutch really is. Also is there any other way to
 make sure the clutch is good? How about the pressure plate, he gave me that
 also. Should I go ahead and get it installed?? I know a mechasnic who will
 do for me for about $100 on his spare time.

 Please help, I would aprreciate any suggestion via E-mail.

Thanks a million!
Martin Cholette
cholette@jsp.umontreal.ca
 
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: jtteh@borland.com (J.T. Teh)
Subject: Re: Fast Japanese Sports Cars
Originator: jtteh@genghis.borland.com
Organization: Borland International, Inc.
Distribution: rec
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 18:20:17 GMT

cka52397@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Slartibartfast) writes:

>In article <1992Nov21.220007.25756@csi.uottawa.ca> kiisaka@csi.uottawa.ca (Ken Iisaka (the mad pianist)) writes:
>>Oh, shut up and get a Honda NSX.  End of discussion.
>                       ^^^^^^^^^

>	If you're gonna spend that much, wait a while and get a Viper.

Yeah, sure, Vipers are currently selling at $120,000!!!! A Viper I saw
at the Dodge dealer here had the mark-up to $150,000!!!! That's a 300%
mark-up. And they don't have a/c, windows, ABS, airbag, power-steering,
etc.... I'd still rather get a NSX, but I wouldn't mind waiting for
the VTEC version out next year! :-)

>-- 
>"The Clergy Dazzle us with Heaven or they Damn us into Hell"  Billy Bragg!!!!!
>IIIII  L    L    IIIII NNNNN IIIII   Chintan Amin c-amin1@uiuc.edu DEPT of E.E.
>  I    L    L      I   N   N   I   RUSH	YES FLOYD METALLICA PEARLJAM REM PG
>IIIII  LLLL LLLL IIIII N   N IIIII   GO TARHEELS  GO CAPITALS GO COWBOYS 


- J.T.
From: DEVILBISS@OCTAVE.LARC.NASA.GOV (Spooner)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Cruise Control w/ Manual Transmission
Date: 17 Nov 1992 18:10:23 GMT
Organization: Badges . . . We don't need no stinking badges.
Distribution: world
Reply-To: DEVILBISS@OCTAVE.LARC.NASA.GOV (Spooner)
NNTP-Posting-Host: lockheedmac6.larc.nasa.gov

stsshol@st.unocal.COM (Herb Lam) writes:

> I have a '91 Mazda 626 with manual transmission along with cruise
>control.  I have only tried the cruise control to see how it operates
>but don't use it because I usually drive in fairly heavy traffic.
>
>Out of curiosity, what happens if the cruise control is on and I
>change gears?  Does it do any harm to the engine or the cruise control?

The cruise control will disengage if you use the clutch or the break.

________________________________________________        
        If we were not crazy, we would go insane.
        If we could not laugh, we would go insane!     J. Buffett
________________________________________________
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: bernie@metapro.DIALix.oz.au (Bernd Felsche)
Subject: Re: 85 Audi 5000S for sale
Organization: MetaPro Systems, Perth, Western Australia
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 92 04:38:08 GMT

In <92322.211409YLCBC@CUNYVM.BITNET> <YLCBC@CUNYVM.BITNET> writes:

>4 Door, Power Steering, Anti lock Brakes,
>Manual transmission, Graphite in color,
>61k miles, good condition $2750.

Just drive it by my office and I'll have a look.

You didn't mention if it was right-hand-drive.

:-) Maybe you should watch the distribution on your postings?
-- 
+-----+ Bernd Felsche                     _--_|\  #include <std/disclaimer.h>
| | | | MetaPro Systems Pty Ltd          /      \ bernie@metapro.DIALix.oz.au
| | | | 328 Albany Highway,              X_.--._/         Fax: +61 9 472 3337
|m|p|s| Victoria Park, Western Australia 6100  v        Phone: +61 9 362 9355
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: rjwade@rainbow.ecn.purdue.edu (Robert J. Wade)
Subject: Re: HOW TO AVOID HITTING THE WALL IN GARAGE
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 21:57:16 GMT

In article <1efks2INNbun@gap.caltech.edu> hacker@cco.caltech.edu (Jonathan Bruce Hacker) writes:
>ehsan@attila.weitek.COM (Ehsan Kalami) writes:
>
>
>>hi, I am sure a lot of people have a similar problem. Where can one buy
>>blocks of cement/concrete so that we know how far to drive a car into
>>garage. similar to one found in parking lots?
>>thanks.
>
>Another solution is to tie a rubber ball on a string attached
>to the ceiling of you garage.  Align the ball so that it just hits
>your windshield when the car is where you want it.
>

or perhaps buy 3 lidar guns and align them to triangulate at a point 3 inches
from the wall and then buy a laser-detector and mount it on the grill of your
car and when it goes off press on the brake!

Newsgroups: rec.autos,misc.consumers,misc.kids,talk.politics.medicine,sci.med