HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: "Rainforest Destruction Has Many Victims"
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 20:33:17 GMT

hubcap@hubcap.clemson.edu (System Janitor) writes:
: 
: I've heard that (about) 95% of the deforestation is attributable to indigenous
: personnel slash-and-burning for farmland (which is only good for a couple
: of years, and then they move on), and only 5% is due to any kind of
: organized timber industry.
: 
: True? BS? 

This is certainly true in Brazil. I don't know about all the other
countries.  Another fact - the rate of deforestation in Brazil has
been at the rate of 0.5%/year.

The greatest worry is loss of topsoil.

Bill
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Wed, 23 Dec 1992 13:09:47 EST
From:         Frank Bateman USAEPG <dbatema@APG-EMH5.APG.ARMY.MIL>
Subject: [Frank Bateman USAEPG: RE: microwave wood?]

----- Forwarded message # 1:

Date:     Wed, 23 Dec 92 13:07:55 EST
From:     Frank Bateman USAEPG  <dbatema@apg-emh5.apg.army.mil>
To:       WOODWOR.BITNET@pucc.Princeton.EDU
Subject:  RE:  microwave wood?

I've used the technique successsfully several times.  I "cook" the
wood on medium for short periods, say, 2 minutes, and then let the
wood cool a bit before repeating.  I have had some minor scorching,
but that's all.  The reason is:  I WATCH THE PROCESS.  Be prepared
to hit the STOP switch if you see or smell smoke.

Experiment!

Frank


----- End of forwarded messages
Organization: Rohm and Haas Company
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 08:34:38 EST
From: <RSASMC@rohvm1.rohmhaas.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Safest way to use radial arm saw?

Push...Pull...Push...Pull... (Sounds rather Dr Doolittle-ish). As I am
(fortunately or unfortunately) NOT an owner of a RAS, please take my
comments as an innocent bystander in this debate.

At EVERY woodworking show I have attended, I have watched the Forrest blade
demo person show the use of their RA blade by PUSHING the blade through the
work. YES, I SAID PUSHING THE BLADE. The demo person even made the comment
that it isn't done that way in the States, but should be, as the RAS is a
knock-off of some European panel type saw that does get pushed through the
wood. The really nifty part of the demo was when the blade was pushed half
way through the piece of wood and the demo guy took his hand away and let
the blade spin away in the kerf. It stayed put. Another argument, he said,
for pushing the blade was that it wouldn't come running at you.

Hey, what do I know.

*** Matt Cairns ***   (A happy table saw owner)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: tonyb@juliet.ll.mit.edu ( Tony Berke )
Subject: Re: refinishing kitchen cabinets
Organization: M.I.T. Lincoln Lab - Group 43
	<1992Dec22.192142.7959@intellistor.com>
Date: 23 Dec 92 11:16:52

In article <1992Dec22.192142.7959@intellistor.com> grun@intellistor.com (Paul Grun) writes:

   In <01GSKQS26ZPU8Y4YLT@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM> RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM writes:

   >My Girl friend (Kathy) has just had her Kitchen cabinets
   >professionally refinished and new doors hung. The job turned out

    (deleted...)

   >   The finish appears to be a polyurethane of some kind and since he
   >   used an HVLP sprayer to apply it and it dried very quickly I would
   >   guess it's water based.

   I'd bet a nickel that he sprayed a lacquer.  Lacquer has the property
   of drying very quickly...


It might, but if the refinisher was using a water-based stripper, he
might be a bit eco-conscious, so a water-based urethane would be
consistant.  Water-based urethanes dry quite quickly, and are commonly
applied with HVLP spray rigs.  I love the stuff, even with a brush.


Tony
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stevenj@microsoft.com (Steven Johnson)
Subject: Re: Rainforest Destruction
Date: 28 Dec 92 22:23:23 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp.

In article <1992Dec21.223342.1@acad2.alaska.edu>, asket@acad2.alaska.edu writes:
> the original writer is correct, overall, the great majority of exotic
> wood is burned down, not logged.  
>      Even more tragically, he pointed out that in many countries where
> export bans have been imposed, the rural population now simply burns
> down the timber because they can no longer export it, so export bans
> don't always accomplish what they intended.  
>      Personally, as a woodworker and a human, I would much rather see
> a tree turned into a treasured piece of fine furniture, than burned
> to ashes as an indirect, unintended result of an export ban.  This is


This directly correlates to my personal experience living in Kenya (and
visiting several other east/central African countries.  Slash and burn
was the biggest killer of trees by far, and I'd bet a rainforest that
if certain species of those trees could be cut and sold for a profit
that the indigenuous people would begin to do so.  With edutcation
in forest management, they might even begin to do so at a sustainable
rate.  Even if they cut them as fast as they could find them, though,
I think the deforrestation rate would be alot slower than simply
lighting the forest on fire and clearing the land with machinery or
by hand.


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mag@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (michael.affleck.gray)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: HELP: Looking for info on exotic hardwoods (mail order woes)
Summary: Hardwood Source
Date: 29 Dec 92 16:07:09 GMT
Distribution: nj
Organization: AT&T

In article <1992Dec28.191027.14755@informix.com>, davek@informix.com (David Kosenko) writes:
> 
> On the note of hardwoods - does anyone know of a good supplier of hardwoods
> in the central NJ area?

Try U.S. Mahogany, 746 Lloyd Road, Aberdeen, NJ (908) 583-6300.  They're
just off exit 117A of the Garden State Parkway Southbound.  They have a wide
variety of Domestic and Foreign hardwoods, in several thicknesses.  I buy
rough wood from them, but they'll plane it for you for about $0.20/BF.
Unfortunately, their planers have very high feed rates and show marks once
the wood is stained.  That's why I got my own planer.  They're a little
slow and a little grumpy, but their prices and selection are great.  They
don't take credit cards.

Mike Gray
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: dyoung@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Donn C Young)
Subject: Re: Rainforest Destruction
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 19:45:52 GMT

There have been some recent articles posted on tropical hardwoods and their
management. Here's an article I wrote for our local Sierra Club newsletter 
summarizing a recent report in Science. I'm not sure if I agree with the 
'no restriction' recommendation on import/export, but it might make economic 
and environmental sense in that people would be more apt to 'slash and burn' 
if the wood was worthless. Whatcha think?

The Sustainable Development of Tropical Timber

In an article published in Science (6/19/92), Jeffrey Vincent of Harvard 
questions whether the common boom-and-bust export pattern for tropical timber 
is inevitable or if changes in policies can transform this trade to one of 
sustainable development. The boom-and-bust cycle is characterized by 
excessively rapid harvests, poor forest management, and inefficient wood 
processing. The belief that such cycles result from exploitation by developed 
countries, high import barriers, and low international wood prices is a myth. 
It turns out that this pattern is due primarily to timber concession policies 
(where the forests are government-owned and a private contractor harvests the 
trees) and restrictions on the export of raw logs (supposedly to stimulate 
local wood processing). When the government owns the forest, the value of the 
timber (as revenue) is artificially reduced thereby decreasing the amount of 
funds available for forest management (sound familiar?). Since the contracts 
for harvesting the timber are of short term and may not be renewed, the 
timber company has no incentive to invest in forest management. Calls for 
tropical timber boycotts and restrictions also encourage boom-and-bust cycles 
by decreasing timber prices. According to Vincent, sustainable development of 
a timber economy is best promoted by relaxing log-export restrictions and by 
increasing government fees for harvesting timber or by selling forests to 
private developers. By inducing folks to maintain permanent forest areas, 
biodiversity and non-timber values of the forest may be indirectly preserved. 
Unfortunately, Vincent does not address the effects of clearcutting rain-
forests, the fast growth of trees (teak can grow to harvestable size of 10-12" 
diameter in 8 yrs), and the establishment of tropical timber plantations.

Donn Young
dyoung@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu
From: kassover@rumsey.crd.ge.com (David Kassover)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: What is the diff between an tilt arbor and table saw?
Date: 23 Dec 92 16:40:38 GMT
Organization: nope

In article <1992Dec23.074428.6136@netcom.com> micki@netcom.com (Michelle Stone) writes:
>
>Thanks to all of you who helped me clear up my muddled mind
>on cabinet saws.
>
>But now... what is a tilting arbor saw?

In order to make bevel cuts, one must arrange that the blade be
at some other angle than 90 degrees to the table.  Most of the
time, the blade (which is held on the shaft by the arbor) is
tilted (which may involve tilting the motor, as well).  But
occasionally, one will find a tilting table saw, in which the
arbor is stationary, but the table tilts.

The Shopsmith mark V is a tilting table saw.

Bandsaws come in a variety of configurations, almost always they
have a tilting table.  But there are some tilting wheel saws out
there.



-- 
David Kassover             "Proper technique helps protect you against
uupsi!khazad!kassover	          sharp weapons and dull judges."
kassover@aule-tek.com                   F. Collins
kassover@ra.crd.ge.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: parnass@cbnewse.cb.att.com (Bob Parnass, AJ9S)
Subject: Re: Jointers, Which one to buy?
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories, Naperville, IL
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 17:04:21 GMT
Summary: just bought new jointer...here's what I found out from other
	 jointer owners
Keywords: jointer

In article <1992Dec23.090445.9745@walter.cray.com>,
mtb@cray.com (Michael Brown) writes:

> I'm in the market for a six inch jointer and the many choices have got me confused.  
> If my wallet was big enough I'd get the Delta DJ15, I've also looked at the
> Delta six inch motorized unit but I don't care for the short bed and extruded 
> aluminum fence.....




I asked the same question, and after some research, I bought
a jointer last Saturday.

By speaking with a few jointer owners, here's what I learned:

  - I found several owners who said the tables on their Taiwanese-made
  jointers weren't flat or couldn't be made coplanar.
  
  - One coworker has been dissatisfied with his AMT from the time
  he bought it -- specifically he said the tables weren't coplanar.
  
  - Another coworker likes his Grizzly jointer but had to return it
  to have the tables reground.
  
  - Another coworker had problems with the tables
  (or blade alignment) on his Delta 37-280 motorized jointer, and
  doesn't use it for surface jointing for that reason.
  He and another Delta 37-280 owner both found the aluminum fence sloppy
  and hard to adjust accurately.

Reviews in FWW's book on power tools gave good reviews to
the small 6" Ryobi JP-155 jointer and big 6" Delta DJ15.
Magazine reviews praised the Ryobi, too.  It has a variable speed
motor and produced smoother cuts than the others tested. 

I narrowed my choices down to the Ryobi for $300 or the big
Delta DJ15, which sells for over $1000 with factory rebate.
Most are my woodworking projects are toys, bandsaw boxes,
and some small furniture, so I bought the 27 lb. Ryobi.

I've only edge jointed about 20 boards and surface jointed
3 since Saturday, and I'm very pleased with the JP-155.

Of course, the short table limits the size of the boards I can joint.
If and when I outgrow the Ryobi, I can sell it and get a big
cast iron jointer.

I won't mail order a big jointer -- I will buy it locally.

-- 
==============================================================================
Bob Parnass, AJ9S  -  AT&T Bell Labs  -  parnass@ihlpm.att.com - (708)979-5414
From: bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Safest way to use radial arm saw?
Date: 21 Dec 92 17:48:32 GMT
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Distribution: na
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated

Scot Heath writes
> ... how many
> of you have had a dado or even a cross cut blade grab, spring the arm
> upward and run across the top of the wood?  I have seen this happen and it
> has happened to me.

Freud makes both regular and dado blades that have "shoulders" after each
tooth. These shoulders are set just a tad lower than the teeth. One of
their purposes is to limit how fast wood can feed into the blade. If
the wood feeds in too fast, the shoulder hits the wood. The shoulder is
smooth and doesn't cut, so the wood can't feed in any more - until the
next tooth comes by and lets it go a tiny bit more.

Anyway, Freud claims this will help reduce the "climbing" you describe
happening on your RAS.

I don't have a RAS. The Freud dado set I use on my tablesaw doesn't have
these shoulders.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
From: cola@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (Ken Colasuonno)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 17:23:44 GMT
Subject: Re: coloured stains for kids blocks
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking


How about analine(sp?) dyes?  Anyone every use them on pine?  Safety?
Suppliers?  I have a scroll saw puzzle book that has some color
pictures of wood dyed with this stuff and the colors are amazingly
vibrant.  Don't know much about them tho.

Ken
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ericb@microsoft.com (Eric Brown)
Subject: Re: question about transporting a Delta Unisaw
Date: 28 Dec 92 22:02:35 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp
Distribution: na
Keywords: tool weight, cast iron, rupture, back ache

Bob Parnass, AJ9S writes:
|
|If you disassembled a Delta Unisaw, how heavy would the heaviest
|module be?
|
|I've been thinking about buying a Unisaw but dread the
|thought of trying to carry it down to the basement (with
|my wife's help).
|
|We've managed to carry down other big power tools but none of
|them were as heavy as a Unisaw (400+ lobs).  In the past,
|we disassembled the tools in my pickup truck and brought them
|downstairs piece by piece.
|
|I'm concerned that the cast iron top is too heavy
|as may be the motor and whatever it's bolted to.
|

My Powermatic model 66 is quite similar to the Unisaw in construction.
I had to disassemble the 66 in the back of my van and then carried the
resultant pieces down to my basement.  I recall the motor being the
heaviest part; perhaps 75 lbs.  I got the whole thing downstairs by
myself, and imagine you could do the same.  Go for it!

-- 
    Eric
               Microsoft Systems, Advanced Systems Development
            {sun, uw-beaver, apple, uunet, fluke}!microsoft!ericb 
                       internet: ericb@microsoft.com
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: advice on laminate work
Date: 29 Dec 92 20:40:09 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

pollack@cis.ohio-state.edu writes:
>I bought a used table with an 84 by 18" by 1.5" formica laminate top,
>and need to shorten it by 3 inches and finish it back up. It is
>50's or 60's and I dont know if it is wood or particle board underneath.
>
>The problem is I don't know how it will work, and am afraid of shattering
>the top, or ending with an unfinishable edge.
>
>I thought of doing a salami end cut, where I cut off the rounded end,
>make another cut out from the middle, and glue the end back on. This
>will result in original edge banding, but a visible formica join.


How about taking all the material out of the middle?  Then the table would
still have the visible formica join, but it would look like a table with
a removable leaf.  You could even take a bigger chunk and make a leaf for
it, so you could make it even smaller if the occasion required it.

Dave
-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
"I look back with some satisfaction on what an idiot I was when I was 25,
 but when I do that, I'm assuming I'm no longer an idiot." - Andy Rooney
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: "soon harper" <soon.harper@canrem.com>
Subject: advice needed on finish n
Reply-To: "soon harper" <soon.harper@canrem.com>
Organization: Canada Remote Systems
Distribution: rec
Date: 31 Dec 92 17:46:37 EST

As a professional finish carpenter these things are what I use all day.
Go with the Emglo, the Campbell will probly be louder, wear out first,
its just not as good. I bought the cheap italian made nailer and have
not had a problem in 6 yrs.
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stevep@sparky.se.hou.compaq.com (Steve Pinn)
Subject: Re: Comments on Delta 16" Band Saw  (28-560) please
Organization: Compaq Computer Corporation
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 23:04:28 GMT

In article <1992Dec22.185425.27938@bnr.ca>, golka@bnr.ca writes:
|> In article <1992Dec7.181152.8054@mcnc.org> pusateri@mcnc.org (Thomas J.
|> Pusateri) writes:
|> >
|> >Woodworkers,
|> >
|> >I am in need of a bandsaw and have decided on the Delta 16" model #28-560.
|> >It has a 1/2 HP motor and takes 82" blades from 1/8-3/8".  I plan on 
|> >using this as a weekend woodworker.  I do build furniture such as 
|> >kitchen sets, bedroom sets, bureaus and entertainment centers.  I am trying
|> >to find out if there are any big differences from this one to the 
|> >open stand version (28-245).. That one also sports a 1/2 HP motor,
|> >blade lengths from 91 1/4-94"  but that price is $150 more than the 16".
|> >I know that the open stand model will take up to a 3/4" length blade.
|> >I know that I won't be resawing wood as its primary purpose so the 
|> >blade length doesn't really concern me.
|> >
|> >Does anybody have comments on this machine and its three wheel design compared
|> >to the traditional 2 wheel design.
|> 
|> I have a 16" three wheeler. My biggest beef is that you have to skew stock
|> about 10 
|> degrees when ripping, or resawing. This makes the fence useless, as the work
|> wanders off
|> the fence, or binds against it. It may be I haven't got the machine setup
|> right. If anyone
|> knows how to fix the, please post the secret.
|> 
|> Beef #2 is that when resawing thick stock, or cutting lathe blanks, the blade
|> bows 
|> in towards the left side of the saw. That is the blade at the middle of the cut
|> thickness
|> is about 1/4" to the left of the top and bottom guides. This gives a boards
|> with convex,
|> and matching concave cups to them. By the time you plane them flat, the
|> effective saw
|> kerf width is > 1/4"! Once again it may be a setup problem. If anyone knows ho
|> wto fix 
|> this PLEASE post a reply.

Bill, although I have no experience with your model of bandsaw your 
bowing problem is a pretty universal one.  It is usually related 
to blade tension.  Insufficient tension will allow the blade to bow
or will give you harmonic flutter in the cut.  The other problem may be
the blade, you didn't mention the blade thickness or tooth design.

I would start by tensioning up the blade considerably and see what
happens - Steve
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ericb@microsoft.com (Eric Brown)
Subject: Re: Impact of our hobby on "the pros" (WAS: Re: Jointer vs Planer)
Date: 28 Dec 92 21:23:47 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp

In article  Eric Ameres writes:
|In article <1992Dec23.010345.981@microsoft.com> ericb@microsoft.com (Eric Brown) writes:
|> [prior post deleted for space saving...]
|
|Are we talking about woodworking or carpentry here?  I refer to
|woodworking as cabinetry, crafts and furniture (fine and otherwise),
|carpentry refers to rough carpentry (i.e. framing, sheathing, etc.,
|house type stuff).
|[...]

I guess I need to clarify; I was refering to woodworking that would alter
the structure of the building that it was installed in.  This would include
cabinetmaking and millwork.  As a case in point, suppose you build a cabinet
that is then fastened to the wall, as in a kitchen upper cabinet or a utility
cabinet over a clothes washer/dryer pair.  If the homeowner then fills the
cabinet and it procedes to fall off of the wall, the person who built/installed
the cabinet could be liable for damages.  Some localities require contractors
licenses for installers of permanently installed cabinetry, others do not.
Liability insurance is not always required but is always a good idea.

If you are creating only furniture or "occasional pieces" (i.e. stuff not
fastened to the building), then you do not need contractors licensing,
bonding, etc.  You would still need a city business license and state resale
license (if the state has sales tax).

(Jeez, I've got the flu and can't keep my concentration.  I hope I addressed
your points of contention.)


-- 
    Eric
               Microsoft Systems, Advanced Systems Development
            {sun, uw-beaver, apple, uunet, fluke}!microsoft!ericb 
                       internet: ericb@microsoft.com
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 21 Dec 1992 11:43:41 EST
From:         "Lawrence E. Rondot" <RONDOT@IPFWVM.BITNET>
Subject:      Mortise Chisels

I am looking for a 3/4" chisel to chop through mortises.  After looking
through the normal research guides (catalogs) I am seeing a patern that most
of the higher priced "mortise" chisels have squared sides and a leather
washer to act as a shock absorber.

What other things should I watch for?  I have a low end 3/4" chisel already
but I am not too sure of it for chopping a 4" wide by 3" deep hole.

Help?

Larry Rondot
Rondot@IPFWVM      - or -      Rondot@SMTPLink.IPFW.Indiana.Edu
From: wack@ariel.ncsl.nist.gov (John Wack)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Jointers, Which one to buy?
Keywords: jointer
Date: 23 Dec 92 18:41:06 GMT
Organization: National Institute of Standards & Technology



I recently went through this - I bought the Jet 6" jointer for 400 even
and am pleased with it.  It's definately not the greatest, but after some
basic alignment, the tables are co-planer and the fence is at 90 degrees.
It's fairly quiet, unlike the Ryobi.  Since the Ryobi is not a _whole_
lot less, I figured this was a better deal.  I'd bet that the other
Taiwanese brands are probably as good.  But, I'm happy with the Jet
and don't foresee outgrowing it for quite a long time.

Good luck,
John Wack
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,alt.save.the.earth,talk.environment
From: hubcap@hubcap.clemson.edu (System Janitor)
Subject: Re: "Rainforest Destruction Has Many Victims"
Organization: Clemson University
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 15:41:31 GMT


I've heard that (about) 95% of the deforestation is attributable to indigenous
personnel slash-and-burning for farmland (which is only good for a couple
of years, and then they move on), and only 5% is due to any kind of
organized timber industry.

True? BS? 

-Mike
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: asket@acad2.alaska.edu
Subject: WARNING (response to...)
Organization: University of Alaska
Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1993 16:30:36 GMT

Don,
     I'm a full time student, and a full time court administrator, and
I'm trying to finish a project by next month to get it into a show,
so I know what it's like to push too hard.  It's just luck and
God's tendency to protect me from my own stupidity that have let
me keep all my fingers.  
     Don't be too hard on yourself--did you notice that Norm Abrams was
wearing a band-aid on his thumb today?  And my father, who survived 15
years of deep water commercial diving, decompression chambers, etc.,
once cut a small notch in his shin bone with a chain saw.              
     Sometimes, no matter how careful we are...
                 Happy New Year, hang in there, happy healing,
                                       Karl
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking