HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: sect@cs.UAlberta.CA (Sam Sugawara)
Subject: Wanted : info on Ricoh KR-5 Super
Summary: my camera needs attention
Organization: University of Alberta, Edmonton, Canada
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1992 10:11:28 GMT


I picked up a Ricoh KR-5 from a garage sale a while back (it was cheap).
However, there are two problems with it, one is that the viewfinder's
scratch glass is fairly dusty, and the other problem is that the shutter
release button is missing.  Neither problem really prevented me from
actually using the camera, and since it was cheap, I use it as a thrash-about
camera.

Now for the request.  Does anyone out there know how I can take this unit
appart and clean the glass inside, or if it's wise to do so?  And can anyone
tell me where and how much a new shutter release button can be gotten (or
point me in the direction of a service center)?

Thanks in advance.
From: jimc@tau-ceti.isc-br.com (Jim Cathey)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Big/fast EOS lens advice sought
Date: 13 Nov 92 00:37:43 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: ISC - Bunker Ramo, Spokane, WA

In article <1992Nov11.002345.9996@jarvis.csri.toronto.edu> acs@csri.toronto.edu (Alvin Chia-Hua Shih) writes:
>1. Buy an EOS-1 if you want to shoot with heavy lenses.  (I don't know about
>	the EOS-5/A2.  Haven't seen one up close.)  The Canon user interface
>	is very, very nice.  The AF is better than that of the F90, and 
>	*much* better than that of the F4s.

Others of the line have a lot of metal in them, like the 620 (and maybe the
630, which is preferable if you don't need the faster shutter).  The EOS-1
is the rugged one, though.  If you can afford the 300 f/2.8 (circa $3k),
you ought to be able to swing an EOS-1 to go with it.  The EOS-1 has some
definite metering advantages, too.

>4. If your subjects don't like the sound of USM lenses, then Nikon is a
>	good alternative.

The 300 f/2.8's old-style USM runs whenever you focus.  The 300 f/4's
got the new-style USM (I think) that only makes noise when you use AF. 
Anyone got one to make sure?  The new-style USM's can be focused even off
the camera, not so the old-style. 

-- 
+----------------+
! II      CCCCCC !  Jim Cathey
! II  SSSSCC     !  ISC-Bunker Ramo
! II      CC     !  TAF-C8;  Spokane, WA  99220
! IISSSS  CC     !  UUCP: uunet!isc-br!jimc (jimc@isc-br.isc-br.com)
! II      CCCCCC !  (509) 927-5757
+----------------+
			One Design to rule them all; one Design to find them.
			One Design to bring them all and in the darkness bind
			them.  In the land of Clone-war where the PC's lie.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: cswstang@uxmail.ust.hk (Tang Wai Shing Wilson)
Subject: Sigma Zoom Lens Recommendation
Keywords: zoom lens
Organization: Hong Kong University of Science and Technology
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 18:59:16 GMT

Hi there,

I just want to ask if anybody have any experience on Sigma 70-210 3.5 APO
zoom len?  I found it is the relative cheap one within other brands.
Is this a satisfactory choice?  I have heard the previous Sigma 70-210 4.0
is notorious.  Is it right?  (I think the later APO version is better.)
Any other suggestion, e.g. Tokina or else?

Thanks in advance.

Regards,
Wilson.



Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: guest@voyager3.sdsu.edu (Guest User)
Subject: Nikon EM ***
Organization: San Diego State University, College of Sciences
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1992 21:27:51 GMT

I  am planning on buyin ga Nikon EM. Could someone give me some info on the 
camera. Any useful info is appreciated. I am particularly interested in
knowing if it has full manual mode and whether it is a good camera for a 
serious amateur.

Thanks

S
From: tim@bcm.tmc.edu (Timothy Owen Lesniak)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Radio Shack rechargables
Date: 13 Nov 1992 06:40:45 GMT
Organization: Baylor College of Medicine, Houston, Tx
NNTP-Posting-Host: bcm.tmc.edu

I've been using Radio Shack rechargable AA's in my cameras for years.
The only drawback was that they took 14 hours to recharge.

The last time I was in RS, I noticed (and subsequently bought) their
new two hour charger. They claim that the old batteries will work
just as well as they did before with the new charger.  I'm just
wondering if this claim is true or not.  I had always assumed that
the quick-charge type of battery/charger combination had some special
properties in the battery as well as the charger.

Tim Lesniak
tim@bcm.tmc.edu


From: feltman@hpscit.sc.hp.com (Robert Feltman)
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 00:01:44 GMT
Subject: Re: Medium format - buying advice wanted
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Clara, CA
Newsgroups: rec.photo

I used to own a 6X7 (Pentax). I found the lenses that I owned to be the
sharpest I have ever had the pleasure to work with. I had the 55,75,105,and
165, all the latest versions. I used the 165 and 105 extensively with
extension tubes and loved the results.

Count on about 5 pounds with one lense and the prism finder. Deduct 1 pound
if you use the WL finder. Very smooth and surprisingly quiet shutter for
a camera that large.

I only moved away from the Pentax because I wanted lens movement and wound
up with a 6X9 technical view camera.

If you do not think you will need the flexibility of a view camera I can
HIGHLY recommend the Pentax 67.

Keep in mind that for any given angle of view, the depth of field at any
particular aperature will be considerably less. If this is not a problem,
then IMHO the Pentax is the best all around field camera in that format.

Write me via e-mail if you have more questions.

Bob
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: D98O@br1.hrz.th-darmstadt.de (Jochen Fuehrer)
Subject: OM lenses wanted
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 14:40:39 GMT
X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.20
Organization: Technical University Darmstadt, Germany

I am looking for some lenses to complete my Olympus OM equipment.

2.8/24mm
2.0/28mm
2.0/35mm
1.2/50mm
2.0/85mm
shift 35mm
fisheye 8 or 16mm

flash F280 for OM4T 

Offers for other items (eg bodies OM1, OM2n, OM2SP) are also welcome.
Just e-mail me

d98o@br1.hrz.th-darmstadt.de

Attention: d98o (Oh, not ZERO)

Shipping and payment can be discussed in detail but should be no problem
from anywhere.

Thanks
Jochen
From: mikec@spider.co.uk (Mike Coren)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: different camera names in US - why ?
Date: 6 Nov 92 12:05:49 GMT
Organization: Spider Systems Limited, Edinburgh, UK.

In article <1992Nov2.084418.18142@sys.sweden.dg.com> robert@sys.sweden.dg.com (Robert Claeson) writes:
>In article <PHR.92Oct25235022@napa.telebit.com>, phr@telebit.com (Paul Rubin) writes:
>
>> 	Is there a reason why camera model numbers in the US are different
>> 	from the rest of the world ?
>> 	eg, the N6006 is just F-601 to the rest of the world,
>> 	and Minolta Maxxum(in US) is Dynax to everyone else. 
>> 
>> So the US importer knows the camera was not bought from them,
>> if someone sends it in for warranty service.
>
>Ah, protectionism! Canon here in Sweden doesn't care that I bought my EOS-1
>in the U.K. even though I tell them.
>

I think it has more to do with deterring high-volume grey market importers
than individuals who purchase the cameras outside the US (or outside Europe
or outside Asia, depending on your frame of reference).  I recently bought
an EOS-100 in the UK, which is the EOS-ELAN in the US, and with it came a
list of Canon's world-wide service network, along with a statement to the
effect that any Canon camera could be serviced anywhere in the world.

When you look in the ads in Popular Photography, and they show the same item
costing $30 more with a US warrantee, you know you're getting grey market
merchandise.

Protectionism would be when the governments require differences in the
products.  Canon HQ in Japan really shouldn't care whether I bought my
camera in the US as an EOS-ELAN or in the UK as an EOS-100.

Mike Coren

-- 
Michael D. Coren, Electrical Engineer             mikec@spider.co.uk
Telecommunications Techniques Corporation, Germantown, Maryland, USA.
Temporarily at Spider Systems Limited, Edinburgh, Scotland, UK.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: monson@hobo.ECE.ORST.EDU (Ty Monson)
Subject: Re: Professional Photography Organizations
Organization: ECE Dept.,OSU,Corvallis
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 06:15:47 GMT

In article <1992Nov5.033420.7063@nwnexus.WA.COM> dsp@halcyon.com (Don Smith) writes:
 in a previous post of mine:
>>ASMP is an exclusive organization with highly restrictive membership
  (and blah, blah, blah)
>>support, even if you are not a member (i.e. buy something from them  :-) )
>
> I have to toss in my .02 though :)   One of the best deals around might
>just be to not be a member of the ASMP but go the local chapter meetings
>for say $5-10
> Just last week I drove down to Portland, OR to see Hans Nelmen speak
>and show his work. I'm a member so I got in the door for 5 bucks,
>non-members were charged $10 (to help cover bringing in folks like Hans
>from NYC etc)

  Well, gee, I was there too. How come you didn't say "Hi"?
  Anyway, I didn't mind spending the $10 non-member fee (cover charge?)
  It was worth it. I'd thought of posting something about
  Hans Neleman's talk, but didn't find the time.
  For people who are interested in seeing an example of Neleman's work,
  he did both photos in the Kodak ad inside the October issue of
  Photo District News (Tide box & the guy with green bug-eyes.)

  I enjoyed Neleman's story of how he got his career as a commercial
  photographer launched. (Fill in corrections, Don.)
  Seems a female at the school he was attending wanted a nice picture
  of herself in an evening dress. Evidently, they got another gal to
  model for the shot. And the shot was made on a stage at the school
  with the lights & equipment that were already available.
  Neleman submitted the photo to some photo contest, and won first 
  prize. As a result of the contest recognition, companies started
  soliciting his services for commercial photography. Neleman 
  chuckled as he commented that he barely knew how to operate a camera
  and he was employing his instructors as his photo assistants!
  Of course, he has come a long way since.
  - no, I don't remember the name of the school...
    and no, I don't know which photo contest.

 Neleman creates many of his striking images by assembling cast-off
 junk that he finds. Sort of makes me want to go rummage
 around Coffin Butte. (That's the junk yard in this part of the country.)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: faust@faust.enet.dec.com ()
Subject: Re: Sharpness
Keywords: Sharp
Reply-To: faust@faust.enet.dec.com ()
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 13:24:56 GMT


>>
>>	Buy a roll of film. Whatever you used before should be fine, and will
>>	give you apples to apples comparison
>>
>   I think it does matter which kind of film is used to test sharpness.

>   I'd select a slow slide film for the following reasons:

I was going to mention slide film, but thought about it for a minute, and recommended the same film he is familiar with with. A slide usually looks much sharper and more saturated that a print. This might bias the tester into thinking that there is a problem, when there actually might not be. Its very
hard to compare a slide to a print that he already has.

Based on that, I recommended that he first test with whatever film he recently
shot that he felt was unsharp. Use the techniques outlined, then compare the
results. If they are still unsharp, time to start testing with slide film to
narrow down the problem. If there is a noticable increase in sharpness, then
it may be the technique (slow shutter speed, hand held, etc), which he can improve on.

Also, it the tester never shot slides before, it may prove difficult to get
the correct exposures, and to really check the slides  without having to buy
a loupe, etc.

So, my suggestion is still to first shoot a roll of the same film as the stuff
he is comparing against. If it is still unsharp, grab a couple rolls of slide
film, buy a loupe, and hone your metering techniques, then start some real testing to find the problem.

BTW, when doing this testing, make sure you remove ALL filters, and make sure
the lenses are clean.
From: monson@hobo.ECE.ORST.EDU (Ty Monson)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Stained Negatives?
Date: 9 Nov 92 19:31:46 GMT
Article-I.D.: news.BxGrL2.5AD
Organization: ECE Dept.,OSU,Corvallis

In article <1992Nov9.154820.29694@bcrka451.bnr.ca> poole@bnr.ca (Thomas Poole) writes:
>I just developed my second set of B&W negatives and although
>my first set was very good, this set has a very pale yellow/
>brown stain on the negatives. It doesn't cover all the 
 (Stuff Deleted)
>I used Ilford 400 Delta 35mm film, developed for 8 min in Ilford
>developer, 30 seconds in the stop bath (instructions called
>for 10 seconds) and 1 minute in the Ilford Paper Fixer (guy
                     ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
		     This is a rather short fix time
                     And you didn't mention agitation.
		     Agitation of the solution is important
		     for efficient fixing.

>at the store said Paper fixer would work fine for film). Wash
>for 10 minutes and then 30 seconds in Kodak PhotoFlo. 
     ^^^^^^^^^^^^
     and this is a rather short wash.

 I suspect the short fix/wash was not adequate to remove dye in the
 film. A short re-fix followed by an adequate wash should cure the 
 problem.  For safety, you may want to try with a small piece of the film
 before commiting the entire roll to additional handling.

 If the stain is uniform, you may want to simply proceed with printing,
 And worry about adequate fixing/washing on the next roll.
From: philg@zurich.ai.mit.edu (Philip Greenspun)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Sharpness (Part II)
Date: 11 Nov 92 16:56:37
Organization: M.I.T. Artificial Intelligence Lab.
Reply-To: philg@martigny.ai.mit.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: zug.ai.mit.edu
In-reply-to: michael9@cs.mun.ca's message of Mon, 9 Nov 1992 18:41:58 GMT


In article <1992Nov9.184158.12404@cs.mun.ca> michael9@cs.mun.ca (Michael Sullivan) writes:

Sometimes lenses expand or contract due to heat or age and the
"infinity" focus mark is no longer accurate.  That is why the big
Nikon honkers (80-200/2.8, 300/2.8, etc.) all contain some room past
the infinity mark.


--

      -- Philip Greenspun

-------------------------------------------------------------
MIT Department of Electrical Engineering and Computer Science
545 Technology Square, Rm 433, Cambridge, MA 02139
(617) 253-8574
From: CARD@UNB.CA (CARDOSO)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Studio Software
Date: 5 Nov 92 14:21:41 GMT
Article-I.D.: UNBVM1.05NOV92.11190505.0206
Organization: The University of New Brunswick

I would like to get some easy-to-use, functional and intuitive
software package to manage the business of a small studio.
Would someone recommend any? What is your favorite? Is there any
program I could get through ftp? (Perhaps a demo?)
Grateful for any help I could get.
Thanks.
John
(email: cardoso@unb.ca)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: geoff@pmafire.inel.gov (Geoff Allen)
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 92 16:27:06 GMT
Organization: Roller Coaster fanatic with no hope for a cure
Subject: Re: Bogen tripods references equivalence table (FAQ ?)
Summary: 
Followup-To: 
Distribution: rec
Organization: Roller Coaster fanatic with no hope for a cure
Keywords: 


Those of us with the Bogen tripods and heads can fairly easily come up
with the Manfroto number by checking our equipment.  Look for a 3-digit
number engraved on the head/tripod someplace.  I know I found them on my
equipment fairly easily when someone from the UK asked me if I could
tell him the mapping.  Here's what I found:

		Bogen	Manfroto
		-----	--------
	Tripod:	3021	055

	Head:	3029	141

If others could do the same, we could put a list together fairly easily.
How about it guys?

Geoff

-- 
Geoff Allen          \  Usenet is distributed network anarchy at its best---
uunet!pmafire!geoff   \   or worst, depending on what is posted on any
geoff@pmafire.inel.gov \   particular day.   --David Fiedler in _Byte_
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: sfleisch@convex.com (Steve Fleischman)
Subject: Beseler 23C
Summary: What size negative does it go up to?
Keywords: Beseler
Organization: CONVEX Computer Corporation, Richardson, Tx., USA
Distribution: rec
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 17:07:56 GMT
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by a user at CONVEX Computer
              Corp. The opinions expressed are those of the user and
              not necessarily those of CONVEX.

What is the maximum size negative that
the Beseler 23C enlarger can handle?

Thanks,

Stephen Fleischman
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: cs108069@pandora.sdsu.edu (John DeRose)
Subject: Re: SB-24 Speedlite, opinions sought
Organization: San Diego State University, College of Sciences
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 20:21:29 GMT

The SB-25 has several features which my SB-24 does not include.
Red-eye reduction is just one of them, although I've never taken
a SB-24 picture with red-eye.  The SB-25 has a diffuser that broadens
the flash coverage down to 20mm.  It also has a white card that can
be used to send a catch-light when the flash head is in a bounce
position.  The strobe has an increased rate of 50Hz.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: pd@sics.se (Per Danielsson)
Subject: Nice MF on AF lenses (was Re: Advice on Canon 50 mm/f1.8 wanted)
Organization: Swedish Institute of Computer Science
	<2822@tau-ceti.isc-br.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 10:58:03 GMT

In article <2822@tau-ceti.isc-br.com> jimc@tau-ceti.isc-br.com (Jim Cathey) writes:

>When I bought into Canon, they had the nicest MF of
>any of the AF line.  Nice to see they're going backwards!  :-(

Oh, they still have the nicest MF of all, provided you use the USM
lenses.
--
Per Danielsson				pd@sics.se
Swedish Institute of Computer Science, PO Box 1263, S-164 28 KISTA, SWEDEN
From: yyh@osustat.mps.ohio-state.edu (Yu-Yun Ho)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Need Info on Polarizers
Date: 5 Nov 1992 22:47:22 GMT
Organization: Department of Statistics, The Ohio State University
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: osustat.mps.ohio-state.edu

Dear netters:

I just bought a Cokin polarizer #160 and found out that it's really a
linear polarizer. The reason I bought it was to use it with my
Cokin vari-color #170 to vary the color of the filter ( I learned
this trick from "the Guide to Cokin Filters").

I heard that linear polarizer would disable the function of TTL meter,
could someone tell me why?  and if it is indeed the case, can I use 
Cokin circular polarizer #164 instead to acheive the effect?

Thank you very much in advance.

********************************************************
* Yuyun Ho                                             *
* Department of Statistics, The Ohio State University  *
* yyh@osustat.mps.ohio-state.edu                       *
*                                                      *
******************************************************** 
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: bongers@gto400.asd.sgi.com (Hans L. Bongers)
Subject: Re: Stained Negatives?
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc., Mountain View, CA, USA
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 20:54:13 GMT

In article <1992Nov9.192532.9093@odin.corp.sgi.com>, donl@glass.esd.sgi.com (donl mathis) writes:
|> 
|> In article <1992Nov9.154820.29694@bcrka451.bnr.ca>, poole@bnr.ca (Thomas
|> Poole) writes:
|> 
|> |> Can anyone tell me what these stains are?
|> |> 
|> |> I used Ilford 400 Delta 35mm film, developed for 8 min in Ilford
|> |> developer, 30 seconds in the stop bath (instructions called
|> |> for 10 seconds) and 1 minute in the Ilford Paper Fixer (guy
|> |> at the store said Paper fixer would work fine for film).
|> 
|> Don't scrimp on fixing!  I don't know if the dilution of Ilford's paper
|> fixer is different than for film, but if you're having trouble, don't
|> make compromises like that.  I'd suggest using proper fixer, for a
|> good, long, healthy time.  In any case, I can't imagine 1 minute being
|> enough time for any film, in any fixer, so if you are going to use
|> the paper fixer, give it five minutes and see what it looks like.  In
|> fact, dump a little in a dish or something, and see how long it takes to
|> clear an unexposed piece of film that you slosh around in there, and
|> double that time when you're processing.
|> 
|> Also, I would suggest you fix that film again; a perfectly acceptable
|> thing to do.  You should probably give it a water rinse first, and then
|> fix for a few minutes, and see if it clears it up.
|> 
|> - donl mathis at Silicon Graphics Computer Systems, Mountain View, CA
|> donl@sgi.com

I agree with Don & would also suspect proper loading of the film onto the
developing reel and proper agitation throughout the development process.

--- hans
From: pablo@bioc.rice.edu (Paul "Pablo" Campbell)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Help:  choosing large format lenses!
Date: 13 Nov 92 02:12:51 GMT
Followup-To: rec.photo
Organization: Rice Univ., Dept. of Biochem

Here's a question for all you experienced users of large format:  how does
one
choose a lens?  I know that there are Copal, Compur, Ilex... shutters, but
what's the difference between them.  Next, how hard is it to take a barrel
lens and have it put in a shutter?  Anyone know of a good place to have
used
lenses cleaned/repaired?  Being a graduate student, I don't have the
world's
most generous budget (one of the reasons why I recently ordered a Bender
4X5
kit; everyone seems to think highly of it).

ANY and ALL responses are welcomed.


Pablo
pablo@bioc.rice.edu
Rice Univ., Dept. of Biochemistry and Cell Biology
From: pulli@seismo.CSS.GOV (Jay Pulli)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: SB-24 Speedlite, opinions sought
Keywords: vs new SB-25
Date: 12 Nov 92 13:13:33 GMT

I would like to obtain a flash for my Nikon N8008s.  The
SB-24 gets a lot of good press in this newsgroup; I like
the matrix balanced fill flash capability.  But now with
the birth of the N90 and SB-25, the SB-24 is now discontinued,
though most shops still have them in stock.  In looking over
the Nikon ads for both, I noticed that the SB-25 advertises
red-eye reduction, while the SB-24 does not.  Is this correct?
Has anyone had problems with red-eye with the SB-24? Why
would Nikon discontinue the SB-24 when the SB-25 features
can only be used with the N90, and not the 8008 or F4?

Email responses would be fine.

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: wb@cbnewsj.cb.att.com (werner.baumgartner)
Subject: Screw Mount Stuff
Organization: AT&T
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 20:31:53 GMT

I recently picked up my first SLR camera at a flea market and
have become quite interested in the various equipment available
for it. The format is 42mm screw mount and I have found many
bargain lenses and bodies in the "used" market. 

My problem is that I don't know the "good" stuff from the "bad"
when it comes to the various manufactures and models. What is
the hierarchy in this mount system  (best -> worst) with regard
to bodies and lenses ?

In shopping around I would like to be more selective and be able
to recognize those items that are worth purchasing. Also, were
there any auto-exposure bodies made in screw mount ? What should
I be looking for ?
				Thanks, Werner B.