HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: Magnetic Featherboard
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 20:01:58 GMT

mlord@bmers63.bnr.ca (Mark Lord) writes:
: In article <1992Nov19.194017.5985@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com> billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson) writes:
: >
: >Since I have a highly smooth and waxed table top, it is easy for me to
: >let the board wander away from the fence. With a sharp blade, I do not
: >even notice, until too late. The second featherboard - behind the blade
: >on finish cuts - eliminates this problem.
: 
: This is where a splitter behind the blade can also come in handy.
: Mine holds the work firmly against the fence without need for a second
: featherboard.  And in cases where I do want the extra security of a second
: featherboard regardless, the splitter fills the kerf and prevents the cutoff
: strip from binding against the blade.  

That is fine - if you always use the same blade - or blades that are all the
same width and same offset from the arbor hub. Otherwise, you have to adjust
the splitter carefully, every time you change the blade. 

: Splitters can be very useful and enhance safety.  As for the stock
: splitter/guard/grippers.. rubbish.  I got a splitter for the INCA 250 
: (small 10" tablesaw) and bolted it onto my generic contractor's saw.
: It doesn't go up/down with the blade, but is easy to install/remove
: and works very well.

I agree that the stock splitters and guards are generally very poor.
I am currently looking for a good aftermarket guard - preferably one
that is transparent. 

Bill
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: wilson@schaefer.math.wisc.edu (Bob Wilson)
Subject: Recall of 3M wiping varnish???
Organization: Univ. of Wisconsin Dept. of Mathematics
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 92 16:49:58 GMT

I have looked several places lately for a 3M wiping varnish. I used the
stuff a few years ago on a desk, and there was considerable
net.discussion about it at the time. It didn't build a thick coat with
each application but successive coats built nicely. Now I need to
"patch" the finish on a drawer front and that controllability looked
useful, so I wanted to find the varnish.
Last night the manager of a local hardware store, who seems to know
his stuff and wasn't steering me to something else, and who sold me
the previous bottle, told me that it was not only no longer available
but that 3M had actually recalled what was still in the field!
WHY???
Is my desk going to blow up? Am I going to die of some unmentionabl
disease from using the varnish?
More likely: I do remember that the unused varnish hardened, actually
sort of crystallizing, in the bottle with not a lot of shelf life.
Maybe it was just going bad on dealer's shelves.
Another possibility: The finish it produced was found not to last
well, and 3M didn't want to get sued by additional customers. I'd like
to know about this one, so I could refinish the desk as appropriate.
Does net.wisdom know why the recall?
Bob Wilson
wilson@math.wisc.edu

PS I posted a version of this a while ago, but our new news program
wants to send out empty posts. I don't know when and why it does it.
In case this does get out, here are my apologies for the earlier
wasted bandwidth... BW
From: apoyner@as.arizona.edu (Tony Poyner)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Thin Hardwood Source
Date: 23 Nov 92 15:41:25 GMT
Reply-To: apoyner@as.arizona.edu
Organization: MMT Observatory, Univ.of Arizona

In article 6266@megatek.com, slover@sugaree.megatek.com (Steve Slover) writes:
>
>I am trying to find a source for thin hardwood.  I am looking for stuff
>from 1/16" to 1/2" thick.  Does anyone know of a good place with low
>prices either mail order or near San Diego?  It would be used to build
>small boxes, possibly a sewing box and maybe even a briefcase.
>
>Posting answers is ok but email is better since our News system is flaky.

I tried to email you, but it bounced.

Try Woodworkers Store, 7876 Convoy Court, San Diego.  I go there every
time I hit San Diego.

For catalog, call (612) 428-3200, or pick one up at the store.


---
Tony Poyner                               apoyner@as.arizona.edu
Multiple Mirror Telescope Observatory     Tel   (602) 621-5185
Univ. of Arizona, Tucson, AZ 85721        Fax   (602) 670-5740
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Wed, 18 Nov 1992 20:32:41 EST
From:         FABY000 <FABY@NMUMUS.BITNET>
Subject:      Magnetic Featherboard

I have the magnetic featherboard and would not recommend you buy one.
It slips on my Delta saw table eventhough the table is metal.  Also, I
found that the plastic piece that holds the wood down on the table is
too stiff.  I keep my table waxed to protect the top and to insure ease
of movement of wood across the table.  Perhaps that is why the feather
board slips.  I suggest making your own feather board.  There are plenty
of diagrams in magazines and books that show how.  Roger Barry
From: hosken@spss.com (Bill Hosken)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Roy Underhill is a good turner.  Norm ain't.
Date: 23 Nov 92 15:14:33 GMT
Organization: SPSS, Inc.


 rainer@spot.Colorado.EDU (Rainer Malzbender) writes:
 >In article <4320061@hpcc01.corp.hp.com> gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz) writes:
 >>   Norm is not the craftsman that Roy is, but he gets things done.  Nice
 >>   plans, sometimes, and good tips on construction.   But when it comes to
 >>   fine woodworking, Roy is your man.  
 >
 >Not! I've never seen either Norm or Roy (especially not Roy!) build anything
 >that even remotely would qualify for a Fine Woodworking cover. We need a
 >new show by someone who's not addicted to Shaker furniture or to the "gotta
 >start by mining the ore if you want to make a table" school of woodworking.

You might want to look at the cover of the March/April 1982 issue of FWW.
It shows someone handling a froe and would fit in any of Ray Underhill's books.

Both Norm and Roy have a similar message. It is something like, "You can do it, 
go ahead and try."  There tools and methods vary but they are not aiming the 
message at skilled woodworkers.
From: carrd@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Magnetic Featherboards
Date: 19 Nov 92 12:32:50 EST

I use both magnetic and nonmagnetic featherboards for a variety of uses.
Table saw and joiner come to mind as the most frequent applications.  
But if you are considering purchasing the magnetic variety, you can make
them easily for about half the cost.  Most tool rags advertise one with an
80lb magnet for about $30.  Leichtung (sp?) sells 75lb magnets for about
$15.  Make a wooden housing with a slot for a piece of stiff plastic
(available from most hardware stores) and viola!  I added a clamp/screw
mechinism for adjusting the plastic featherboard.

Works great!

Leichtungs phone # 1-800-321-6840.

Dave
----------------------------------

These are my opinions and not necessarily those of my employer.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: Scraping versus Sanding
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 05:24:51 GMT

John Wishneusky writes
> In article <3989@ecicrl.ocunix.on.ca> clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris  
Lewis) writes:
> >In article <1992Nov5.102424@wsl.dec.com> gringort@wsl.dec.com (Joel  
Gringorten) writes:
> >>In article <5330101@hpindda.cup.hp.com>, gph@hpindda.cup.hp.com (Paul  
Houtz) writes:
> > 
> >>|> I would scrape rather than sand.
> >
> >>|> A good quality steel scraper, properly edged and burnished, will give  
you a
> >>|> much better surface than sanding.
> >
> >>The context to which Paul wrote the above statement applied to oak, and I 
> >>think I agree.  However, I wish to raise the question whether scraping is
> >>*always* preferable to sanding, particularly in "problem" woods.  
> >
> >Many people get religious and say that scrapers *ALWAYS* do a better job.
> >That's simply not true.  Scrapers don't work that well on softwoods,
> >and behave miserably on things like birdseye maple, crotch grain etc.
> >
> >I had some fairly wild grain birch, and the scrapers (my first attempt)
> >didn't do *that* great a job.  (I believe I had the scrapers sharpened
> >correctly, I was impressed with the shavings I was able to produce.)
> >
> I watched a Fine Woodworking video, I think it was on wood finishing,
> where the craftsman demonstrated planing and scraping prior to
> applying a finish to new wood.  The piece he domonstrated on had an
> area of "wild grain". 

Sounds like Frank Klausz's tape on wood finishing.


> He had to approach little bits of the area from
> different directions to get the best result, reading shifts in the
> grain, but he did all the final surface preparation with a cabinet
> scraper. 

If it *is* Klausz's tape, you need to keep watching. He brought out the
sandpaper and gave the piece and thorough sanding (I think with 220 grit)
after scraping, and before applying the French polish.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: sesv@cbnewsc.cb.att.com (steven.e.sommars)
Subject: Re: Magnetic Featherboard
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 15:01:42 GMT

I have the magnetic ``featherboards''& find them occasionally
useful.  The plastic seems too stiff though, this makes
adjustment a pain.  Another problem is that the lateral
pressure is due to a single ``feather'' rather than the 
the 10-20+ feathers of a conventional featherboard.  When
the end of a board goes past the magnetic featherboard,
the pressure is suddenly released rather than gradually.

Since I don't have a highly polished
table saw, I've had no problem with slippage.

In article <SESTRICH.92Nov18160441@yeti.bbn.com> sestrich@yeti.bbn.com (Joe Sestrich) writes:
>	3) To hold the board properly, you would like to put the finger
>	   board right at the saw blade. BUT, when the cut finishes the
>	   spring action pushes the off-cut into the blade.  This means
>	   you place the holder farther back

You want to force the wood against the fence and down, never
into the blade.  Featherboards should end in front
of the sawblade.  Some other types of hold-downs can be placed 
between the sawblade and the fence.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: Robert Mingee <rmingee@convex.COM>
Subject: Re: Woodworking books
Originator: rmingee@imagine.convex.com
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 19:13:15 GMT
Distribution: usa
Reply-To: rmingee@convex.COM (Robert Mingee)
Organization: Engineering, CONVEX Computer Corp., Richardson, Tx., USA
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by a user at CONVEX Computer
              Corp. The opinions expressed are those of the user and
              not necessarily those of CONVEX.

In article <38@ucqais.cba.uc.edu> ggibeau@ucqais.cba.uc.edu (George G. Gibeau) writes:
>In <1992Nov18.181325.11863@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com> billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson) writes:
>
>>I personally, would be very interested. For that matter, if the store has
>>a list that they mail out, I would like to get their address. My interests
>>span far more than woodworking.
>
>>Bill
>
>I have received a boat load of requests for more info.  I am off work
>Friday, so will pay them a visit and see what information I can
>acquire.  I understand from one of my friends that they are strictly
>a local outfit.

Hmm, I'm not sure about that.  We have 2 (I think) Half Price Books in the
Dallas area.  Could be just a coincidence, but the place sounds a lot like
I've heard the ones here are (I haven't been in one, but will try to check
it out in the next couple of weeks and post what I find out).

-- robert
-- 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Robert Mingee		 |     "The problem with the future is that it keeps
CONVEX Computer Corp.    |	turning into the present"  -- Hobbes
rmingee@convex.com	 |              
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: gcohen@mailer.cc.fsu.edu (Gregory Cohen)
Subject: Re: Veneers and veneering
Organization: Florida State University
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 92 23:42:08 GMT

In article <1992Nov17.190711.27955@cbfsb.cb.att.com> millios@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (william.l.millios) writes:
<Much Deleted>
>do this?  Do I soak it?  How do I find a tub big enough to soak
>a piece of wood that's 3 by 4 feet?
>
<more deleted>

>Bill


I might try using a trick I use for developing mural size photographs.  I lay
a plastic tarp over four 2X6 peices that are proped up with cinderblocks.  This
makes a nice temporary bath and it might just work for you.  Let me know how it
turns out.

-GReg Cohen
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Beware of the Fnord or it will eat you.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
gcohen@mailer.acns.fsu.edu

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: kamooni@pb2esac.uucp (Ken Moonitz)
Subject: Re: 115-piece drill set
Organization: Pacific*Bell ESAC, Oakland, CA.
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 17:36:18 GMT

In article <By31qs.5Ks@ipars.cts.com> scotto@ipars.cts.com (Scott O'Connell) writes:
>
>I'm looking for a 115-piece drill bit set and am confused about the different
>imported sets.  I've seen the following:
>
>	China			$34
>	Taiwan			$73
>	Vermont American	$214
>	Hansen			$275
>
>I have no problem purchasing the Hansen if they'r really worth it.  I would
>be using these bits in steel, aluminum, plastic and wood.  I want something
>that will last.
>
>Anyone have good information on these or other ideas?  Thanks in advance!
>
>-- 
>
>Scott O'Connell - N6ZEK                UUCP: {nosc, ucsd}!crash!ipars!scotto
>Spectrum Data Services                 ARPA: crash!ipars!scotto@nosc.mil
>Carlsbad, CA                           INET: scotto@ipars.cts.com

Hold the phone... Checking my nearest machine shop supply catalog
I find;

1/16" to 1/2" by 64ths ... $56.
           A  to  Z  ..... $57.
	   1  to 60  ..... $43.

These prices are more realistic of machine shop grade drills.

Now my 2 cents....  The drills you see that are black are not the best
all around choice for drills.  This coating helps when drilling in steel,
but aluminum will adhere to it sometime completely ruining the bit.  
Having a complete set of jobber length machine shop drills (jobber is
what a "normal" length drill is called, there is also screw machine
lengths, "stubby", and extra longs) is essential in the shop if your
tapping or drilling for close tolerances.  Also, if you get "split point"
tips you get a much better drilling action, most machine tool supply
shop carry these kind of drills.  For everday drilling check out the 
Black and Decker "Bullet point" drills, oh ya, Price Club has a great
deal on some bits Credo brand, US made HSS silver, great for aluminum,
wood, plastic... 1/6" to 1/2" for $20. and whats cool is they give you
from 3 to 5 of all the most commonly used sizes.  Anyway, if your 
interested I could list a bunch of machine shop suppliers that have
more drills than Carter has pills.
				   Keep the chips fly'in,
					Ken

					  
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ericb@microsoft.com (Eric Brown)
Subject: Re: help, glue up mistake
Date: 19 Nov 92 23:56:11 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp

Re: how to take apart glued up joints.
White glues will soften if heated.  The trick is how do you heat it?
I would not recommend a propane torch. :-) A clothes iron may work.

There is a machine that uses HF radio waves to dry phenolic resin
glues.  This machine is known to me by the brand name Wood Welder. 
It basically is a large "transmitter"
probably several kilowatts, with a length of coax cable coming out
of it and a hand held "antenna" at the end of the cable.  The
antenna is actually a tuned circuit that terminates in two plates.
The plates are then held against the piece of wood.  The radio
waves heat the water in the glue to a boil causing quick setting.

White glue, if it is not too old, contains enough residual water
to heat up when the Wood Welder's "antenna" is applied.  The glue
retains quite a bit of "tack", so it may still be difficult to
separate a tongue and groove, but I cannot think of a better
approach.

Where would you find such a beast?  If you live in a metropolitan
area, then chances are that some of the older wood shops might have
one.  They would probably be willing to help you for a nominal fee
(assuming you are not too embarassed to ask for their help!).
Good luck!


-- 
    Eric
               Microsoft Systems, Advanced Systems Development
            {sun, uw-beaver, apple, uunet, fluke}!microsoft!ericb 
                       internet: ericb@microsoft.com
From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 00:38:26 GMT
Subject: Re: Protecting table saw for a move?
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

mikel@col.hp.com (Mike Lopke) writes:
>
>I'm going to be moving soon and need to prepare my table 
>saw.  I'm concerned about proventing rust mainly because
>it may be sitting in storage for up to 90 days.  Although
>we are moving from dry Colorado to dryer Idaho, I don't 
>want to take any chances.
>
>I have been keeping the top in good condition using baby
>powder but I'm not too sure how well this will hold up.
>I thought waxing and covering with plastic might be the 
>ticket but am confused on which brand to use.  I remember 
>reading that you should avoid waxes with silicone in them 
>because this may get in the wood and affect finishing.  

   I think if I were going to put my saw in storage for 
   90 days in unknown conditions, I would get a paint
   brush and some cosmoline, or heavy grease, and slop
   it on all the cast-iron parts, coating well, and then
   wrap them in waxed paper or heavy plastic, like a 
   thick plastic painting dropcloth.   This is the way
   my Delta saw came from the factory.

   Then, when you move in and set it up, just remove the
   cosmoline with some kerosene and you should have a 
   surface as nice as the one you started with.
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-VMS-To: IN%"WOODWORK%IPFWVM.BITNET@pucc.Princeton.EDU"
MIME-version: 1.0
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 17 Nov 1992 08:00:48 -0800
From:         RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM
Subject:      Re: Upstate NY Sawmilling?

HOW ABOT A CHAIN SAW TO CUT ONE PLANK DOWN TO RUFF SIZE AND "FININSHING"
THEM WITH A BAND SAW?

NOT VERY ELEGANT, AND FAR FROM PERFICT; BUT, IT SHOULD GIVE YOU AN IDEA OF
WHEATHER YOU WANT TO PERSUE THE PROJECT FURTHER.


                        RON TYE (ALL OPINIONS MY OWN)
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 17 Nov 1992 09:34:19 EST
From:         "Frank Bateman USAEPG" <dbatema@APG-EMH5.APG.ARMY.MIL>
Subject:      Delta Lathe

More on the Delta LAthe mentioned in my posting of Nov 16:

Model number is 46-700.  Woodworkers Supply of New Mexico's latest
catalogue which I received yesterday lists the lathe for $399, and
that includes free truck delivery in the 48 states.  Specs include:
variable speed (55 - 2000 RPM), 36" length, 12" swing over bed,
16" swing outboard (headstock turns 90 degrees), 3/4 HP motor.
Phone for Woodworkers Supply is 800-645-9292.

Frank
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: leo@cpd.Tandem.COM (Leo Hejza)
Subject: Re: planer/jointer blade adjustment
Organization: Tandem Computers Inc., Cupertino CA
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 19:03:28 GMT

In article <1992Nov18.164353.23096@wuecl.wustl.edu>, dls@wuee1.wustl.edu (Donald L. Snyder) writes:
>My Delta 12" planer and 6" jointer are well overdue for blade
>replacement.  I see several options for approaching the task and
>am interested in learning about the experiences others have had.
> Here are the choices I've identified so far.  Maybe others can
>be suggested.
>
>2.  Magnaset.  These are widely advertised devices that use
>magnets on a pair of arms at each end of the blade to hold the
>blades in place while set screws are tightened.  Sounds
>straightforward, but the cost is high.  Really high since
>separate Magnasets are required for the planer and jointer.  My
>just received catalog from Woodworker's Supply has these listed
>at $71.95 for the planer and $41.50 for the jointer (assuming
>steel and not carbide blades).  Each is a substantial fraction
>of the cost of the planer or jointer itself.
>
There are cheaper methods to do this but I haven't found a faster one. When
I bought my DJ-15 jointer I bought a magnaset, and I haven't been sorry
since. I'd never put blades on a jointer before, and even the first time 
only took 10 min. They were very well aligned, no scalloping, etc.

At a woodworking show I talked to the people who make these, and they
recommended the carbide ones, even if you're setting steel blades. The
only difference is that the carbide ones have a stronger magnet. But
believe me, when these things grab the blade, it's held solidly.

I know they're expensive, but I probably wouldn't have the blades
sharpened nearly as often, if it were a real pain to realign them.

Leo.
From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 02:46:10 GMT
Subject: Re: Grizzly 1023 or Delta Unisaw?
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

pfm@unh.edu (Patrick F. Messer) writes:
>
>I'm looking into buying a new tablesaw and would appreciate any thoughts people have.
>Currently I'm looking at the Grizzly G1023 and the Delta Unisaw.  These are my thoughts
>so far about each:
>
>	Unisaw
>		+ I have experience with older models
>		- I don't have experience with newer models
>		- Jet lock fence
>		- $1400 for 3HP model
>
>	Grizzly G1023
>		+ $900.00
>		? Fence (how good is this fence?)
>		- No experience in dealing with grizzly products
------------

    I have a neigbor with the Grizzly, and I have played with a number of
    unisaws.  My impressions:

       1.  The grizzly is not a bad saw for $900.   No comparison to the 
           Unisaw, though.   The Unisaw is obviously higher quality, with
           smoother, more substantial controls, arbor, etc.

       2.  The jet lock fence is lousy.  The Grizzley fence is even worse.
           Figure ~$300.00 for an aftermarket fence if you buy either of
           these saws.
From: brown@venus.iucf.indiana.edu (Robert J. Brown)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: "The New Yankee Powertool Advertising Show"
Date: 23 Nov 92 15:10:33 GMT
Reply-To: brown@venus.iucf.indiana.edu
Distribution: na
Organization: IUCF
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.3-4

In a follow-up to article <4320061@hpcc01.corp.hp.com>, gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com 
(G. Paul Houtz) writes...
>tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin) writes:
> 
>   I also found your remark about the New Yankee Powertool Advertising
>   Show funny, although I noticed in the last episode that the brand 
>   names have been covered by electricians tape on some of his tools.
> 
  I've noticed this since the show first aired. As far as I'm concerned,
I have no problem with the "Power Tool Advertising" aspect of the show
because power tools are what I'm into. But it really shows me (my wife
pointed this out) how much of a "power tool junky" I really am since I
can usually identify the tool he is using (down to the model #) although 
the brand names have been covered up! Personally, I like the idea that he
often has several different brands and models of the same tool. It has
often helped me to select tools for my own needs since I haven't the $$
nor the sponsors to have them all. I only wish that I had the bucks to
own a pickup truck like Steve Thomas drives around on TOH!! What a ride!

   ____________________________________________________________
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