From: tittle@ics.uci.edu (Cindy Tittle Moore)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs,news.answers
Subject: rec.pets.dogs:  Alaskan Malamutes FAQ
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Date: 6 Jan 1993 06:02:24 GMT
Organization: University of California at Irvine: ICS Dept.
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X-Last-Updated: 1993/01/06

Archive-name: dogs-faq/malamutes

This is the breed-specific FAQ for Alaskan Malamutes.  It is not
posted on a regular basis, but may be obtained via anonymous ftp at
pit-manager.mit.edu under /pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/malamutes.
Or, send email to mail-server@pit-manager.mit.edu with

send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/malamutes

in the subject line, leaving the body empty.

AUTHORS (listed alphabetically)

Margaret H. Bonham (Sky Warrior Racing Kennels), December 8, 1992
Stacey E. Curtis (Elphine Kennels), December, 1 1992
Stephen R. Lee (OooWoo Racing Kennel), December, 1 1992


DESCRIPTION

The Alaskan Malamute is a large and powerful sled dog.  They can weigh
over 100 lbs and stand up to 30 inches high at the shoulder, though 25
inches high is regarded as the preferred height for freighting.  They
are an impressive looking dog, quite beautiful and dignified.

AKC Official Alaskan Malamute Standard (condensed):

General Appearance and Characteristics: The Malamute is a powerfully
and substantially built dog with a deep chest and strong, compact
body.  The Malamute stands well over pads, which gives the appearance
of much activity, showing interest and curiosity.  The Malamute moves
with a proud carriage, head erect and eyes alert.  Face markings are a
distinguishing feature.  Endurance and intelligence are shown by body
and expression.

Size: There is a natural range in size in the breed.  The desirable
freighting characteristics are: males, 25 inches at the shoulder and
85 lbs; and females, 23 inches at the shoulder and 75 lbs.  It is
important that size considerations not outweigh that of type,
proportion, and functional attributes.

Temperament: The Alaskan Malamute is an affectionate, friendly dog,
not a "one-man" dog.  He is a loyal, devoted companion, playful on
invitation, but generally impressive by his dignity after maturity.

Head: The head should indicate a high degree of intelligence, and is
broad and powerful when compared with other "natural" breeds, but
should be in proportion to the size of the dog so as not to make the
dog appear clumsy or coarse.  The skull should be broad between the
ears, moderately rounded between the ears.  There should be a slight
furrow between the eyes.  The muzzle should be large and bulky in
proportion to the size of the skull, diminishing but little in width
and depth from junction with the skull to the nose.  The lips should
be close fitting, upper and lower jaws broad with large teeth and no
over- or under- shoot.

Eyes: Brown, almond shaped, moderately large for this shape of eye,
set obliquely in skull.  Dark eyes preferred.  Blue eyes are a
disqualification.

Ears: Should be of medium size, but small in proportion to the head.
They should be set wide apart on the outside back edges of the skull
with the lower part of the ear joining the skull on a line with the
upper corner of they eye, giving the tips of the ears the appearance,
when erect, of standing off from the skull.  When erect, the ears
point slightly forward, but when the dog is at work, the ears are
sometimes folded against the skull.  High set ears are a fault.

Neck:  The neck should be strong and moderately arched.

Body: The chest should be strong and deep.  The body should be strong
and compactly built but not short coupled.  The back should be
straight and gently slopping to the hips.  A long loin which weakens
the back is a fault.  The dog should not possess excess weight.

Shoulders, Legs, and Feet: Shoulders should be moderately sloping;
forelegs heavily boned and muscled, straight to the pasterns, which
should be short and strong and almost vertical as viewed from the
side.  The feet should be large and compact, toes, tight-fitting and
well arched, pads thick and tough, toenails short and strong.  There
should be a protective growth of hair between the toes.  Hind legs
must be broad and powerfully muscled through thighs; stifles
moderately bent, hock joints broad and strong, moderately bent and
well let down.  The legs of the Malamute must indicate unusual
strength and tremendous propelling power.  Any indication of
unsoundness in legs or feet, standing or moving, is to be considered a
serious fault.  Dewclaws on the hind legs are undesirable and should
be removed shortly after pups are whelped.

Tail: Moderately set.  Not tightly curled to rest on back, or short
furred and carried like a fox brush.  Should have a waving plume
appearance.

Coat: The Malamute should have a thick, coarse guard coat, not long
and soft.  The undercoat is dense, from 1 to 2 inches in depth, oily
and woolly.  The coarse guard hair stands out, and there is thick fur
around the neck.  The guard coat varies in length as does the
undercoat.  In general, the coat is moderately short to medium along
the sides of the body with the length of the coat increasing somewhat
around the shoulders and neck, down the back, and over the rump.

Color and Markings: The usual colors range from light gray through the
intermediate shadings to black, always white on the underbodies, parts
of legs, feet, and part of mask markings.  Markings should be either
caplike and/or mask like on the face.  A white blaze on forehead
and/or collar or spot on nape is attractive and acceptable, but broken
color extending over body in spots or uneven splashings is
undesirable.  The only solid color allowed is all white.

HISTORY

Alaskan Malamutes originated with a group of native Innuits known as
the Mahlemiut.  The dogs of that time were very large freighting dogs
capable of pulling heavy weight in extreme conditions.  The Mahlemiut
people mainly inhabited the upper part of the Anvik river in Alaska,
but were spread over a wide region.  The Malamute was used to haul
food back to the villages.  It was used as a heavy freighting dog,
able to pull a tremendous amount of weight over long distances at a
steady pace.  The gold rush of 1896 created a high demand for these
dogs.

Today, there are essentially two different "kinds" of Alaskan
Malamutes.  One line is referred to as the M'Loot and the other is the
Kotzebue.  One difference between these two lines is the size of the
dog.  M'Loot Malamutes are larger than the Kotzebue's.  In addition,
true Kotzebues have only wolf-gray coats, whereas M'Loots come in a
variety of colors, including wolf-gray, black and white, sable and
white, seal, blue, and white.  Kotzebues also tend to be less
aggressive than the M'loot, however they can be more hyper. The
Kotzebue line is essentially due to Arthur Walden, and Milton and Eva
Seeley.  In fact, it was Milton and Eva that got the Kotzebue line
recognized and registered by the AKC in 1935.  Paul Voelker developed
the M'Loot line. Paul did not register his dogs, but he sold them to
people who eventually did.  Amongst breeders, there is some argument
as to which is the "correct" Malamute.  In spite of this, Alaskan
Malamutes are credited as one of the few breeds that is very close to
its original form and function.

CHARACTERISTICS AND TEMPERAMENT

Coat and Grooming

The Alaskan Malamute is a double coated breed.  This coat consists of
a woolly undercoat and longer guard hairs.  Twice a year, Malamutes
"blow" their undercoats, that is, they shed their undercoats
completely.  It is a very intense shedding period that can last up to
three weeks from start to finish.  The good news is that this only
happens twice a year.  The remainder of the time, Malamutes are
relatively shed free (unlike smooth coated breeds).  The bad news is
that the shedding period can be rather messy.  The hair comes out in
large and small clumps.  Lots of vacuuming and brushing are in order.
It should be noted that some owners that live in very warm climes,
ones that lack "seasonal changes," report some shedding year round in
the breed.

The Alaskan Malamute is a very clean and relatively odor free dog.  It
tends to clean itself like a cat. Even when a Malamute becomes covered
in mud, it will clean itself.  Therefore, bathing needs are minimal.
Some owners only bathe their dogs once a year or less.

Other than during coat-blowing season, the Malamute needs very little
grooming.  No trimming or shaving of hair is required or recommended.
Occasional brushing to remove dead hair and keep the coat fresh and
shiny is required.  Their nails should be checked and clipped
periodically.

Temperament

Alaskan Malamutes are a very people friendly breed and demand a lot of
attention.  They are often described as "big teddy bears" because of
their love of attention.  They are a very pack-oriented breed and
therefore do best when included in the family rather than shut outside
away from the rest of the "pack."  Since they are pack oriented,
Malamutes are generally not "one-man" dogs.  They are an extremely
intelligent breed that can be very stubborn and easily bored.  They
are not typically recommended to a first-time dog owner as mistakes
are easy to make and sometimes hard to correct unless you really know
what you are doing.  They can be a challenge to train, due to their
stubbornness.  It is said that to teach a Malamute to do something
once or twice is very easy, because they are quite intelligent and
quickly learn new tasks.  To get them to repeatedly do something over
and over again is much more challenging, due to their stubbornness and
the fact that they become easily bored.  This trait is quite common in
all of the northern breeds.  The sheer size of the Malamute can become
an obstacle to novice dog owners.  Many Malamutes end up in the pound
and even destroyed because an owner fell in love with the cute puppy
but could not control the large, stubborn, powerful adult.

Owing to their strong pack nature, Malamutes can be more aggressive
towards other dogs than other breeds.  Because of this, great care
should be taken on the part of the owner to socialize their Malamute
puppy as much as possible with other dogs.

Due to the character of the Malamute, they should never be actively
trained to be protective, vicious, or aggressive.  Their very nature
makes them lousy watch dogs.  It is against their instincts to make
them into watch or guard type dogs.  It has been tried in the past
with disastrous results.  They are a visual deterrent only, as the
uninitiated may be hesitant to approach property or family in the
company of such a large, impressive looking animal.  However,
Malamutes are as likely to greet a potential thief as warmly as a
trusted family member.  This is part of what makes a Malamute a
Malamute.

Barking, Talking, and Howling

Alaskan Malamutes are rather quiet dogs.  They generally do not bark
at all.  They do tend to "talk," however.  The best way to describe
the talking is to recall Chewbacca, the Wookie in the movie "Star
Wars."  It is sort of a soft "woo woo woo" sound.  Malamutes can howl
the roof right off of your house however.  Owners of multiple
Malamutes have noticed that when their dogs howl, they will all stop
simultaneously.  Again, this behavior is due to the fact that they are
a *very* pack-oriented breed.


CARE AND TRAINING

Feeding 

Note:  Those living in Australia should read the note that follows
these comments carefully.

When you collect your puppy, your breeder should tell you what the
puppy's diet has been to date, as well as recommendation as to the
best food and feeding frequency in the future, both for while the dog
is still a puppy as well as when the dog is an adult.  You should try
and follow the puppy's diet at the time you collect him from the
breeder as best you can, until the puppy is settled in to its new
environment.  Then you can gradually change the diet to suit your
preferences.  Remember that sudden changes in diet can severely
disrupt the puppy's digestive system and cause gastric distress.

Some people prefer to free-feed their dogs, while others prefer
scheduled feeding times.  Certainly while the dog is still a puppy, he
should be fed three times a day or free-fed.  Malamutes are not fully
mature until 18 months of age.  The diet should be tailored to the
dogs level of activity and eating habits.  Some Malamute owners have
found it impossible to free feed their dogs, due to the fact that some
Malamutes will eat all food presented them immediately.  This can lead
to a variety of health problems, including obesity and bloat.

As for the type and "brand" of dog food, basically any reputable dog
food manufacturer provides a dog food that is sufficient to keep a dog
healthy.  However, the premium brands of dog food have the advantage
that one can feed the dog less and still get very good nourishment.
In addition, stool size and amount is generally less with the premium
dog foods.  Keep in mind that feeding dogs is partly art, and partly
science.  The dog food manufactures have done the science part.  The
rest is up to you.  Some people feed their dogs a mix of canned and
dry food twice a day.  Others feed only dry and allow free feeding,
and so on.  Be sure and pick a frequency of feeding, brand, and type
of food to suit your dogs needs.  For working Malamutes, something
equivalent to a Science Diet Performance is in order.  For Malamutes
that go for walks and hikes, a Maintenance formula is usually best.
Consult your breeder and veterinarian for advice.

One other thing worth mentioning here is how long to feed puppy food.
Some research indicates that feeding puppy food for too long can
increase the incidence of hip dysplasia in dogs that are susceptible
to it.  Some breeders start feeding adult food very soon.  Even though
the Malamute is not fully mature until 18 months, most people
gradually switch to adult dog food at the 8-10 month time frame.
Again, this is something to discuss with your breeder and
veterinarian.

Special note for those living in Australia:

People that live in Australia recommend that you do *not* use any of
the Australian commercial dog foods with Malamutes.  Apparently,
Malamutes have a difficult time digesting the food, and all sorts of
unpleasant problems can occur, such as hot spots and gastric distress.
Kangaroo meat is also not recommended for exactly the same reason.
Breeders and fanciers of Malamutes in Australia typically make their
own dog food, and supplement it with a variety of vitamins and
minerals to ensure a balanced diet.  If you live in Australia, it is
recommended that you try this route, with extensive consultation with
your breeder and veterinarian.  Making ones own dog food is
non-trivial, and should not be approached lightly.

Housing

Alaskan Malamutes are happiest when they can share in family
activities.  The best arrangement is one in which the dog can come in
and out of the house of its own free-will, through a dog door.  If a
dog door is not possible, then training the dog to go to an outside
door to be let out is also very easy to do.  Outside, the dog should
have a large, fenced yard.  The fence should be strong and at least 6
feet tall.  It is also a good idea to bury wire in the ground to
discourage digging out.  Malamutes are notorious diggers.  It is
usually best to set up a sand box somewhere in a shaded part of the
yard and encourage digging there, if possible.  Malamutes should *not*
be allowed to roam around the neighborhood.  If one chooses to kennel
a Malamute, the kennel should be chain link, with a concrete run, and
should be 8 ft wide and 15 to 20 ft long.  It should be at least 6 ft
high with chain link across the top of the kennel.  It should be in a
shaded location and have an insulated dog house with a door for
shelter from the elements.

Because the Malamute is an arctic dog, it can remain outside in very
cold weather.  However, it should be provided with shelter from the
elements in the form of a good sturdy house.  The house should have a
flat roof, as Malamutes love to lay on top of their houses and observe
the world.  A good insulated house with nice straw bedding is perfect
for Malamutes that spend most of their time outside.  Heating the dog
house is usually not necessary.

Training

Training Alaskan Malamutes can be a challenge.  With this breed, it is
important to start young.  Establish rules of the house early, and
make sure that the puppy knows that you are in charge.  For example,
if you do not want the dog on the bed as an adult, do not allow it as
a puppy.  The rule of thumb is that if you train a dog to do
something, expect him to do it.  Therefore, if the puppy learns that
certain things are allowed, it will be difficult to train them not to
do them as adults.  Things that are cute as puppies may not be all
that cute when the dog weighs 80 lbs or more.

Since the dog is pack-oriented, it important to establish yourself as
the head of the pack, or alpha, very early.  Once you do this, the dog
will respect you and training will be much easier.  It is best to
enroll in a puppy training class (or puppy kindergarten training as
they are commonly known) soon after your dog is home and has all of
its vaccinations.  This training is good for the dog and for you as
the owner, as it will help you understand your new puppy and establish
you as alpha very early in the puppy's life, which is extremely
important with this breed.  Once you have completed the puppy class,
and have been working with the dog for a few months, a basic obedience
class is in order.

Obedience training this breed can be very interesting and extremely
challenging.  Many owners will complain that their dogs act perfectly
in class, but will not obey at home.  This breed is intelligent enough
to differentiate situations very well, and will apply different rules
of behavior for different situations.  You must stay on top of the dog
and maintain control, which is easier to do while the dog is of
manageable size than with a stubborn adult that has been allowed to
get away with undesirable behaviors for a long time.

It is very important to remember that Alaskan Malamutes are a *working
breed*.  They need something to do.  Putting them in the backyard and
tossing them a bone and expecting them to be happy us a very bad idea.
They need a lot of exercise and interaction to be happy.  The exercise
can come in the form of mushing, which is of course best, or can
easily be in the form of frequent walks, hikes, and playing.  The dog
makes a wonderful hiking companion, and with a dog pack, can carry
food and water.

SPECIAL MEDICAL PROBLEMS

Snow Nose or Bad Pigmentation?

Snow Nose is described as a pink/reddish marking on the black nose.
It is commonly experienced amongst the northern breeds.  Snow Nose can
disappear over the warmer months and reappear over the winter months.
There is nothing wrong with snow nose.

Bad pigmentation occasionally occurs within specimens of the breed.
The pigmentation area generally occurs around the face and is best
described as being pinkish skin and it can, in some cases, detract
from the dogs appearance.  The main problem with this pigmentation is
the threat of sun cancer occurring to the area as the pink skin is
more at risk of sunburn.  It is advisable to cover the affected area
with sun screen regularly to protect the dog from this threat of
cancer.  It is possible to correct pigmentation problems with
tattooing and there is a relatively new procedure where a vegetable
dye is injected into the area and spread to cover the pigmentation.

Hot spots

Hot spots look like raw grazed skin.  They can also take the form of
loose coat that does not appear to be attached to the skin.  There is
a link between hot spots and incorrect diet.  Alaskan Malamutes cannot
handle rich and spicy food.

Bloat

Bloat is a condition that affects all large, deep chested breeds.  It
is a potentially life-threatening condition which usually affects dogs
in the prime of life.  Basically, the dog's stomach will swell from
gas, fluid, or both (this is acute gastric dilation).  Once distended,
the stomach may twist abruptly on its long axis.  If it does twist,
but the twist is less than 180 degrees, it is called a torsion.  If
greater than 180 degrees, it is called a volvulus.  Therefore, the
term bloat can refer to any of these three conditions (acute gastric
distortion, torsion, or volvulus).  Acute gastric dilation is not
serious, and may clear up itself in a few minutes. Torsion or volvulus
are life threatening and immediate veterinary attention is required.
The chance for recurrence is around fifteen percent.  The cause of
bloat is unknown.

Eye Problems

Progressive retinal atrophy (PRA) and central progressive retinal
atrophy (CPRA) have appeared in a number of breeds, including
Malamutes.  Hemeralopia, or "day blindness", has also occurred in
Malamutes.  All of these problems are genetically caused.  Careful
screening of potential breeding pairs has helped reduce the incidence
of these problem in the breed.

Hip Dysplasia

This is another genetic disorder that affects Malamutes.  Simply put,
hip dysplasia is a deformation in the hip joint.  That is, the head of
the femur does not sit solidly in the acetabulum.  The joint lacks
tightness, and the condition results in a painful and often
debilitating life for the dog. Hip dysplasia is considered to be a
moderately inheritable condition.  Breeders will usually have breeding
pairs OFA (Orthopedic Foundation for Animals) certified prior to
breeding.  OFA certification can be given only after a dog is over 24
months old.

Chondrodyspalsia (CHD)

This is a genetic disorder in the M'Loot Malamute line.  It is also
known as dwarfism, although this term is not very descriptive or even
entirely correct.
 
The condition results in delayed endochondral bone formation.  In
1970, the Alaskan Malamute Club of America officially recognized CHD
and began efforts to combat the disease.  By the end of that year, it
was proven that the gene for CHD was an autosome recessive (through
repetitive matings of CHD dogs) and mathematical models one which
pedigrees could be tested were established.
 
A Malamute with less than a 6.25% CHD probability factor is considered
to be breedable.  6.25% corresponds to one carrier as a
great-great-great grandfather .  Obviously this is not foolproof, but
the chances of a dog not carrying CHD are improved considerably the
lower the number.  CHD probability is computed through the average of
the two parents.
 
There are various ways to test for CHD including blood tests and
x-rays.  This recessive gene seems to affect blood as well, producing
a type of anemia.
 
X-rays are generally made between the ages of 3 to 12 weeks, if one is
overly concerned about CHD detection.  Most Malamute breeders are
satisfied with the CHD rating and no outward signs.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

Is a Malamute part wolf?
No.  The Alaskan Malamute is a domesticated pure bred dog, and has
been for many centuries.  They are often mistaken for wolves, and they
are often used in movies to depict wolves, but they are most certainly
*not* wolves or part wolf.

How do they handle the summer heat?
Like any dog, to cope with summer heat the Alaskan Malamute needs a
constant supply of water to drink and shade from the sun.  If the dog
is allowed inside then it will find it's own cool room (probably on
the kitchen or bathroom floor if it is tiled or linoleum floored).
Some dogs like having ice added to their water to help keep it cool.
Some also enjoy a children's wading pool filled with water in the
summer time.  The Malamute sheds a lot of coat directly before summer,
as soon as the whether starts to warm up, which also allows them to
keep cool.  Heavy exercise should be avoided in excessive heat.
Curtail exercise times to be early morning or just after sunset.  Once
the dog is acclimated to his environment, he is usually fine.
Malamutes are remarkably adaptable animals.  However, one should never
try and push a dog beyond his capability to cope with the heat.  To do
so can be disastrous.  One must keep in mind the type of climate the
dog is acclimated for and not look for signs of heat stress.  Do not
ever lock any dog in a car in direct sunlight, or in the shade for a
great deal of time, even with the windows down a little for
ventilation the heat generated by the dog is still enough to cause
heat stress in summer.

What are they like with children?
Due to their gentle temperament the Alaskan Malamute is generally a
very good family dog.  They seem to enjoy the company of children,
though common sense must be used when mixing any dog with young
children.  They are a very powerful dog and children should not be
left in total control of the dog.  Alaskan Malamutes are generally
patient by nature and will tolerate young children fawning over them,
but this should be strictly supervised for the sake of the dog as well
as the child.  With these caveats in mind, since Malamutes love
attention, well behaved children get along wonderfully with well
mannered and socialized Malamutes.

What are they like inside a house, being so big?
Alaskan Malamutes, aside from the occasional invasion of masses of fur
when they are shedding coat, are excellent house dogs.  They are
extremely clean dogs and surprisingly quiet.  They are very
sure-footed and in no way clumsy around furniture.  They will often
pick out a favorite sleeping spot and stay there for hours.  Favorite
spots seem to be tiled and linoleum floors in warm weather, soft
pillows or beds at other times.

How much do they eat?
Most Malamutes love food, however they eat surprisingly little for
their size.  The actual amount of food will vary depending on the
metabolism and activity level of the dog, and the type of food that is
given.  A working adult will eat approximately 4 cups of high density
food per day.  Other dogs will generally eat less.  Puppies require
smaller, more frequent meals.

How much exercise do they need, and what kind?
You should not strenuously exercise a puppy under 6 months of age.
Their muscular-skeleto system is not developed enough yet.  Their play
is enough to keep them healthy.  You should play with your puppy and
work on some of the basic obedience commands with him, in a playful
way.  Once the dog is 6 months old, a kindergarten puppy training
class or a basic obedience class is a very good idea.  It will start
you both out on the right foot.  You can then more easily start taking
the dog for walks in your area on a leash.  By the time the dog is
full grown, at around 18 months, he will be ready for much longer
walks, an hour per day or more.  The obedience training will make the
walks much more enjoyable.  Alaskan Malamutes also enjoy jogging, but
this should not be attempted until the dog is 18 months old or older.
Hiking, with a dog back-pack is great fun.  One can also bike with a
dog, with a nifty device known as a "Springer."  Finally, sledding is
an excellent form of exercise, and is what the dog was bred for.  The
sled dog part of the FAQ for rec.pets.dogs covers these things in more
detail.

Do they pull sleds very fast?
The Malamute is a very strong dog, but not as fast as some of the
other northern breeds.  Malamutes are not as fast as, say Siberians,
and because of this are not typically used in sprint sled racing or a
race like the Iditarod (although they sometimes are).  Endurance and
strength are the Malamute staples, and they are frequently used for
exploratory trips across the North Pole or Antarctica (most recently,
in the Trans-Antarctic expedition) and in weight pull competitions.

How strong are they?
The Malamute is a very strong dog.  They were originally freighting
dogs and as such, are able to pull tremendous amounts of weight.  Just
from looking at the Malamute, and the size of his bones and his
stature, it is easy to see that they are indeed very strong animals.
For this reason, many people use them in weight pulling competitions,
where they will pull thousands of pounds.

Do they shed a lot?
Malamutes blow their undercoats twice per year.  They do not typically
shed year round like many dog breeds.  When they do blow their coat,
they loose lots of hair (several grocery sacks full per week).

Do they like to fight other dogs?
No.  Malamutes are very pack oriented dogs.  As such, they communicate
with other dogs in a variety of ways.  An ill mannered, aggressive dog
is not a good team dog and therefore not a good sled dog.  However,
poorly socialized and trained Malamutes can be aggressive towards
other dogs.  For this reason, it is very important for a Malamute
owner to train the dog carefully and make sure to properly socialize
it with other dogs.

I've heard Malamutes are dumb.  Is this true?
No!  Alaskan Malamutes are extremely intelligent working dogs.  People
often mistake the fact that they can be difficult to train as a sign
of stupidity.  Malamutes are very clever and easily bored.  The key to
training them is to keep them interested and to challenge their
intelligence.  A Malamute probably knows what you want him to do, he
just may not want to do it!

Just how cold can an Alaskan Malamute live in?
Alaskan Malamutes can work and live in extremely cold conditions,
approaching 70 degrees below zero.


REFERENCES

1. Books

Riddle, Maxwell, and Seeley, Eva.  _The Complete Alaskan Malamute_,
1988, Howell Book House.  ISBN 0-87605-009-7.

Ross, Diane.  _Your Alaskan Malamute_, 1977 William Denlinger.  
ISBN 0-87714-047-2.

Riddle, Maxwell and Harris, Beth.  _The New Complete Alaskan Malamute_, 
1990, Howell Book House.  ISBN 0-87605-008-9.

Coppinger, Lorna and ISDRA.  _The World of Sled Dogs_, 1977, 
Howell Book House.  ISBN 0-87605-671-0.

2. Periodicals

_The Malamute Quarterly_
Hofflin Publishing Ltd.
4401 Zephyr Street
Wheat Ridge, CO 80033-3299

3. Breed Rescue Organizations

Viginia Devaney
Alaskan Malamute Club of America Rescue
(505) 281-3961

4. Breed Clubs

Alaskan Malamute Club of America
Corres. Secretary, Mrs. Norma Cozzoni
2408 A Route 31
Oswego, Il  60543

5. Breeders

Disclaimer:  These breeders have been recommended in good faith.  
You are responsible for verifying that a particular breeder meets 
your needs to your satisfaction.

In the United States: 

Contact the Alaskan Malamute Club of America for
breeder recommendations in your area.

In Australia:

Chukchi Kennels
Wendy Newton
(051) 871203

Elphine Kennels
Stacey Curtis
(06) 258 2116