HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: hintzman@hpljah.hpl.hp.com (Jeff Hintzman)
Subject: Re: Bessler 23c non flat negs
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 22:19:19 GMT
Reply-To: hintzman@hpljah.hpl.hp.com
Organization: HP IC Business Division R&D, Palo Alto, CA

In article <1go6epINNi98@darkstar.UCSC.EDU>, pharris@ucscm.ucsc.edu (Peter Harris) writes:
|> In article <BzD275.3A5@hplabs.hpl.hp.com> Jeff
|> Hintzman, hintzman@hpljah.hpl.hp.com writes:
|> 
|> Use tape, like the pros do. Virtually every
|> technician in every pro lab Ive worked in (there
|> have been some biggies, too) has used TAPE at
|> one time or another to hold a negative flat.
|> (Some people use it all the time.) Just tape
|> down the edge of the film on one side ONLY.
|> Also, make sure your enlarger is IN ALIGNMENT.
|> So many people forget to check this and then go
|> through all sorts of convolutions to blame poor
|> focus on some other link in the system.
|> Peter Harris
|> University of California Santa Cruz

Good advice about checking the alignment of the enlarger.

What effect will the sticky junk from tape have on the archival
longevity of my negatives?

-- 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jeff Hintzman                                  hintzman@hpljah.hpl.hp.com
Hewlett-Packard Integrated Circuit Business Division 
Palo Alto, CA                                              (415) 857-7616
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jchen@wind.bellcore.com (Jason Chen)
Subject: Re: Lithiums vs. alkalines (was Re: was going to get 8008s but EOS 10s recommended)
Reply-To: jchen@ctt.bellcore.com
Organization: Bell Communications Research
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 92 23:20:13 GMT

|> 
|> The second thing I know is that rec.photo readers say that lithiums
|> last for anywhere from 5-25 rolls of film. That probably depends
|> alot on flash use, and possibly on brand of battery. Let's say the
|> average is 20 rolls, even though this sounds very generous from
|> what people have reported. At $12 per battery, that's $0.60 per
|> roll of film--TEN TIMES MORE EXPENSIVE.

You jumpped the gun too quickly.

Previous discussions on 5-25 rolls/battery referred to specific cameras
(EOS Elan and 10s). Although there is no definite, pin-pointing explanation
to the low numbers, the built-in flash has been established as the
source of power drain.  Therefore, the low yield of Elan and 10s has little
to do with the battery. Your comparison of batteries based on those data
has foundamental flaws.

A more creditable test for battery comparison is to examine the yields of
630 and 8008, although it is still comparing apples with oranges.

My 630 is still on its first battery, so I can not tell the yeild of 
the battery at present time. What I can say is there have been
900 frames recorded on the data back, and the battery has no sign of stress
yet.

I would be happy to provide the number when the battery finally dies, but
you have to be patient. :-)

Jason Chen
From: jay@metran.UUCP (Jay Ts)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Bulk loading etc
Date: 12 Dec 92 00:17:34 GMT
Organization: Metran Technology, Tampa, Florida

dlbradle@jhawk.b30.ingr.com (Doug Bradley) writes:
: 
:  [ Jay Ts talks about still getting scratches with the Watson ]
: 
:   If you're still getting scratches, you must have some crud on the felt
: on the CASSETTES. There's NOTHING the Watson will do to scratch your film
: if you've opened the gate.

Well, that just doesn't figure -- I had been using a set of cassettes with
no problem with a Lloyd loader.  Then I got a Watson loader, and started
getting scratches on *each* roll of film that had been loaded with it.
I am still having no problems from the Lloyd loaders, of which I now have
three.

This is only speculation, but it may be that the problem I had was due to
the Velvia I had in the Watson loader having been on a 2" spool.  That had
made the diameter of the bulk roll much larger, and possibly more likely to
cause trouble.

:   That's my experience over many, many years and thousands of feet of bulk
: film. Suggest it's time to buy some new cassettes.

Coincidentally, I had already done that.  But the cassettes that the scratched
films were in were new, too!

Jay
-- 
Jay Ts
uucp mail: uunet!myrddin!tscs!metran!jay
phone: (813) 979-9169
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: pd@sics.se (Per Danielsson)
Subject: Lithiums vs. alkalines (was Re: was going to get 8008s but EOS 10s recommended)
Organization: Swedish Institute of Computer Science, Kista
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1992 01:58:26 GMT

In article <1992Dec10.212159.22023@adobe.com> asanders@adobe.com (Alan Sanders) writes:

>The cost of using lithiums should not be underestimated,
>though this *alot* on how much a camera is used. Lithium
>batteries have a very long shelf life, and operate at nearly
>full power until they are very close to exhaustion. But shooting
>10 rolls of film for $12 worth of batteries is very different
>from shooting 50 rolls of film for $3. That's the difference
>between lithiums and AA's. I've owned my 8008s for close to
>two years, and I'm on my second set of AA's!

This is the first posting I've seen with some numbers on the
difference between lithiums and alkalines (I assume you are using
alkaline AA's). Can you give us some real, hard data? Have you done a
comparison, or know of a test showing alkalines to be more cost
effective?
--
Per Danielsson				pd@sics.se
Swedish Institute of Computer Science, PO Box 1263, S-164 28 KISTA, SWEDEN
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: ka1gt@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (robert.m.atkins)
Subject: Re: WD-40 Remover?
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 18:06:30 GMT

In article <BzDqFr.3wn@news.ucs.mun.ca>, hamm@weejordy.physics.mun.ca (Craig Hamm) writes:
> 	My direct email bounced, and FAST.
> 
> 	Try acetone.  But no guarantees.  It SEEMS to thin anything!
> 

Yes indeed, including many types of plastic. Be REAL careful using acetone
on anything which may contain plastic parts. Note that acetone sold as 
"nail polish remover" contains other stuff as well which will leave oily
residue.

===============================================================
Bob Atkins  AT&T Bell Labs  email (direct)  att!clockwise!rma
===============================================================
From: jack@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk (Jack Campin)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Last inquiry for advice: Egypt foto tour
Date: 18 Dec 92 16:29:08 GMT
Reply-To: jack@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk (Jack Campin)
Organization: COMANDOS Project, Glesga Yoonie

edmtl@taxus.uib.no (Thor Legvold) wrote:
> Hi gang.  I'm going home for the holidays on wednsday (to Oslo),
> and leave for Egypt on the 28th.
> If anyone has anymore advice for photography (film/filters/
> subjects, what to see, etc) for Egypt (6 days in Cairo + 1 in
> Luxor)  I would appreciate  a mail or news followup.

12x16 wet-collodion-coated glass plates in a rising-front-only view camera
with an uncoated f11 anastigmat and a lens cap for a shutter.  Remember to
hire one camel for the plates and another for the portable darkroom.
Ventilation is important as collodion can boil at the usual temperatures of
Upper Egypt.

Well, that was what the best pictures I've ever seen of Egypt (Francis
Frith's) used, anyway.

-- 
--  Jack Campin    room G092, Computing Science Department, Glasgow University,
17 Lilybank Gardens, Glasgow G12 8RZ, Scotland   TEL: 041 339 8855 x6854 (work)
INTERNET: jack@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk or via nsfnet-relay.ac.uk    FAX: 041 330 4913
BANG!net: via mcsun and uknet     BITNET: via UKACRL    UUCP: jack@glasgow.uucp
From: jspirer@rain.next.com (Jeff Spirer)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: For Sale: Olympus Lenses
Keywords: Olympus
Date: 14 Dec 92 22:09:34 GMT

I have the following lenses for sale:

Zuiko 200mm F4, built in hood, leather hard case. $85.

Zuiko 35-70mm F3.5-F4.5, original box and packing, instructions.  $90.

Both lenses are in immaculate condition.  Perfect glass, extremely clean  
in all respects.

Jeff Spirer

jeff@next.com

415 780-3793
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: mcovingt@aisun3.ai.uga.edu (Michael Covington)
Subject: Re: I Hate Grainy Pictures
Keywords: HELP
Organization: AI Programs, University of Georgia, Athens
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1992 03:59:10 GMT

If underagitation reduces grain for you, then a shorter development time,
with normal agitation, should do the same.

-- 
:-  Michael A. Covington     internet mcovingt@uga.cc.uga.edu :   Verbum caro
:-  Artificial Intelligence Programs       phone 706 542-0358 :    factum est
:-  The University of Georgia                fax 706 542-0349 :  et habitavit
:-  Athens, Georgia 30602-7415 U.S.A.     amateur radio N4TMI :   in nobis...
From: gray@cac.washington.edu (Terry Gray)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Saunders 4x5 enlargers
Date: 13 Dec 92 07:23:44 GMT
Article-I.D.: u.1992Dec13.072344.19429
Organization: UW Networks and Distributed Computing

In article <1992Dec13.062140.25344@unislc.uucp> erc@unislc.uucp (Ed Carp) writes:
>Doesn't Aristo make a cold light head for the Saunders?

I don't see one listed in the Calumet catalog... Beseler and Omega only.
--
Terry Gray
 University of Washington
  gray@cac.washington.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: umeca80@ps.ic.ac.uk (Bruce Taylor)
Subject: Re: I Hate Grainy Pictures -- TMZ, Acufine...Microphen?
Organization: Imperial College Computer Centre
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 92 11:54:56 GMT

You could try using 2 bath development which reduces the size of visible
grain clumps. In the UK we get Tetenal Emofin developer which is readily 
available. If I remember correctly the times for T-Max 3200 in this are
around 5+5 minutes with continuous agitation (i.e. keep inverting the 
tank). The problem with T-Max P3200 is that the shadow detail goes. If
using Emofin its better to rate it at 1600. A better choice is Fuji 
Neopan 1600 which gives fine grain with Emofin and a better tonal range
than P3200. If you can't get Tetenal products, there is a US product
which is similar  although I can't remember the name offhand.

===============================================================================
Bruce Taylor                                    Process Systems Engineering
umeca80@ps.ic.ac.uk                             Imperial College, London
===============================================================================
"I wish I could think of a good quote to put at the end of this posting".


Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: myhui@bnr.ca (Michael Hui)
Subject: Re: Questions on Studio Portrait Photography
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd., Ottawa, Canada
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 92 16:03:19 GMT

In article <1gf4j7INNg45@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> bu890@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Brian Segal) writes:
>will probably be shooting with a relatively large f-stop anyway
>in order to soften the background, so f8 or f11 in medium format, for
>example is enough, and easily achievable with decent flashguns.

I have always thought portraits should be done with a small f-stop,
i.e. diaphram wide-open, so as to lessen the intermodulation effects
of a diaphram that's perhaps not perfectly round, and has too many
straight or jagged edges. In other words, to get that Leica smoothness
without a Leica lens, try using wide open apertures.
-- 
Michael MY Hui  ~{~}  myhui@bnr.ca  Ottawa Canada
From: ark@alice.att.com (Andrew Koenig)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Zone VI 4x5 view comments ?
Date: 18 Dec 92 20:10:39 GMT
Article-I.D.: alice.24440
Reply-To: ark@alice.UUCP ()
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories, Murray Hill NJ

In article <parsons1-171292183256@17.5.10.191> parsons1@applelink.apple.COM (Don Parsons) writes:


> * According to the Calumet catalog, it does not allow interchangeable
> bellows.

The Zone VI camera does allow interchangeable bellows, and there is
a bag bellows available for it.  If the Calumet catalog says otherwise,
you may be looking at the wront camera -- Calumet sells several wooden
4x5 field cameras in addition to the Zone VI.

> * It does not have fine adjustment knobs. Instead, the knobs are for
> holding current adjustments.

Yes and no.  The front and rear standards each have an adjustment knob
(on the right side of the camera as seen from the back) and a locking knob
(on the left side).  What it doesn't have is separate coarse and fine
adjustments.  I don't think it needs them.

> * Many of the adjustments do not have marked scales that allow you to make
> adjustments that are guided by numbers.

None of the scales have calibrations, except that the center position
is marked so you can accurately return things to neutral.  Calibrated
adjustments aren't terribly useful in the field anyway -- or are you going
to mark exactly where your tripod legs are?
-- 
				--Andrew Koenig
				  ark@europa.att.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: brett@jericho.uucp (Brett Cheng)
Subject: Re: Minolta or Canon?
Keywords: Tamron adaptall mount Canon EOS
Organization: S-MOS Systems, Inc. (Vancouver Design Center)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 19:45:15 GMT

In article <3140@devnull.mpd.tandem.com> bruceb@mpd.tandem.com (Bruce Burden) writes:
>In article <Bz9CI4.4qs@cs.uiuc.edu> hasker@cs.uiuc.edu (Rob Hasker) writes:
>>Do you realize you'll have to give up the Tamron 70-210 zoom if you switch
>>to an AF camera like the Maxxum or Rebel?
>>or a Canon EOS Rebel S-11.
>>
>	Actually, speaking for the Maxxum, this is not quite accurate.
>    If the Tamron lens is an Adapt-all mount, Tamron does market a 
>    Minolta Maxxum (Type A) Adapt-all mount.

Tamron also sells an EOS adaptall mount (I have one, but don't remember
the part# off hand...) - this is purely a mechanical
thing to physically mount the adaptall lens on a Canon EOS body - of course
you must manually focus, and manually set the aperature. 
Not as convenient as a real EF lens, but at least you can get some
use out of an old adaptall lens when you switch from an MF to AF system.

BC


-- 
Brett Cheng
uunet!jericho!brett    brett%jericho@uunet.uu.net
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: tse@ra.nrl.navy.mil (Anthony Tse)
Subject: Re: Canon 10s Vs Nikon N90, Which one?
Organization: Naval Research Lab, Washington, DC
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 06:00:39 GMT

In article <1992Dec18.031906.10270@cbnewsh.cb.att.com> kram@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (kameswar.r.ati) writes:
>Canon 10s  - Body + 28-105USM lens =  $570-590
>Nikon N90  - Body + 28-105  lens   =  $1100
>
>but then I do not mind spending the extra bucks if the N90 is
>clearly superior in picture quality, len quality, overall
>construction etc. Also am I comparing apples to oranges? 

	What lens quality?  You are talking about a 28-105 zoom, you can
pretty much chuck lens quality out the window.  To answer your question,
unless you plan on spending $500 and up on a single lens, the quality of
both Nikon & Canon lens are the same.  If you are willing to spend a few
thousand dollars on lens, then Canon has a slight edge.  But then, if
I were to spend a few thousand dollars on lens today, I wouldn't
buy 35mm, I probably get a Hassy or RB.

-Anthony
From: bu890@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Brian Segal)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Hasselblad Film Flatness
Date: 12 Dec 1992 17:24:36 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


I am not sure which magazines you read, but get a few copies of the Hasselblad
Forum, and then consider the quality of the images..except those that were
shot with Softar filters, you will find the images tack sharp!

brian
From: ben_wen@athena.mit.edu (Benson Wen)
Subject: Re: I Hate Grainy Pictures -- TMZ, Acufine...Microphen?
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1992 20:38:16 GMT

In article <1992Dec13.031923.18186@news.acns.nwu.edu> mjg@nwu.edu (Michael J Graven) writes:

   Danny Richman (gumby@choate.edu) writes:

(stuff deleted about shutter speeds for basketball photos)

   Which brings me to the indoor sports wonder film: TMZ.  (Warming your
   heart, Barnick? :) )

   > I decided that it was necessary to use 3200 ASA T-Max due to the low light 
   > conditions, but I am at my last stop and can't afford to push the film at all.

   A pedantic note: Tmax P3200 TMZ is really an ISO 1000 film.  When you
   rate it at EI (note: EI, not ISO) 3200, you're pushing it over a stop
   already.  Hence the "P" in the film name.

   > When I enlarge the pictures I get a lot of grain.  Well, sure I expected it, 
   > but isn't there anything I can do?  

   Sure.  Modify the method you use to develop the negatives.  

   It is my contention that the times Kodak provides for developing TMZ in
   Tmax developer (you *are* using Tmax developer, aren't you?) are,
   shall we say, a bit optimistic.  I use a slightly different formula.

   Take the EI you shot the film at.  Double it.  Choose the time for that
   EI in Tmax 1:4 at 22 degrees Celsius.  Set your developer at that
   temperature, and develop -- but agitate five seconds every three minutes
   instead of every thirty seconds.  And do it gently; you don't want to
   bruise the developer.  :)

You might also want to take a serious look at Acufine developer.  I
use it with TMZ all the time.  It works best for me when I expose at
EI 1600.  The grain is incredible for TMZ...it looks like Tri-X.  

My agitation method is as follows:  small tank, with reels on a stalk.
-- 10sec initial agitation... 2 slow up/down motions followed by a 360
deg rotation.  
-- 5sec every minute thereafter 1 up/down and a 180 deg rotation. 

The rotation is important if you want to avoid getting streaks from
the developer flowing over sprocket holes.

Times-- at 72degF full strength Acufine 7min.

Acufine loses a bit at EI3200 with TMZ.  My nod goes to TMAX at 3200
and above...but damn that contrast...I'll have to try your method.

Has anyone tried TMZ in Microphen?

What about Neopan and Acufine?

-Ben

--

|| Benson Wen
|| ben_wen@athena.mit.edu
|| queeph@hing.lcs.mit.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: erc@unislc.uucp (Ed Carp)
Subject: Re: The moron Lecture
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Organization: Unisys Corporation SLC
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1992 00:56:35 GMT

Mike Coren (mikec@spider.co.uk) wrote:

: In article <1992Dec7.205431.13450@hou.amoco.com> zawr02@hou.amoco.com writes:
: >In article M4F@world.std.com, dp@world.std.com (Jeff DelPapa) writes:
: >>
: >>You have triggered a number of amusing memories, interacting with the
: >>great unwashed... I have discovered that possetion of a tripod confers
: >>on the carrier guru status. Stand out in a tourist mecca, and peple
: >>will bring their broken cameras for you to cure by a waving of hands. 
: >>
: >My experience is that a long lens is sufficient :-)
: 
: I've also found that just having a non-point & shoot 35mm camera or case
: hanging around your neck, complete strangers will walk up, hand you their
: expensive cameras, and ask you to take their pictures.

...but not in California, at least in the Bay Area.  If you walk around with
a camera with a long lens and a tripod, everyone now thinks you're a tourist.
:) :)

I ran across that when I lived out there.  I just learned to ignore the
gawkers - if you wait long enough, they go away and you can get your work
done. :) :)
-- 
Ed Carp			erc@apple.com, erc@saturn.upl.com	801/538-0177

Who and what would you be if you went beyond your deepest fears?
From: laurap@neuro.duke.edu (Laura Poole)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Astro-photography (sort of)
Keywords: stars film ???
Date: 13 Dec 92 00:01:51 GMT

I am interested in taking some astrophotography-type pictures. I will not
be using a telescope, I just wanted to point my camera at the sky and hold
the shutter open to get images of the stars. I have a Bulb setting on my speed,
so I can control the exposure time. 

Question: What speed film should I use (my camera can go up to 1200, and I
	  want to use B&W film..TMax 1200?)

Question: How long should I hold the shutter open? I don't have the faintest
	  clue, though I would guess several minutes. I don't care if it's long
	  enough that the stars move and make lines, I think that's cool!

I will have a tripod, or something steady for the camera, natch.
Email or post, makes no difference to me, though I would assume some others
would be interested in this stuff too!

laurap@neuro.duke.edu
laura
From: moreaux@litsun.epfl.ch (Michel Moreaux)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: HELP: exposition corrector factors for Saunders/Jobo LPL colour head
Date: 17 Dec 92 18:09:22 GMT
Reply-To: moreaux@litsun.epfl.ch
Distribution: rec
Organization: Laboratoire d'informatique technique


Help !

Last Saterday, I received the Jobo LPL 4"x5" (sold under the name Saunders in
the States) with a colour head. All right ! According to some people
recommendations, I ordered the colour head. In fact, I plan to use it mostly
for B/W ilford multicontrast prints. I have some documentation from Ilford
that explains the required filtering according to the wanted paper grade.
Well, all seems all right except the fact that I have received no information
with the Jobo/Saunders LPL explaining the exposition correction factors
according to the filtering. I phoned the Jobo importer in Switzerland and they
told me that Jobo colour densities are equivalent to Kodak densities. In fact,
they mean than when Kodak says "add 100M" I have to "add 100M" on my Jobo's
head. The only problem is to correct the time of exposure. I have read that
such information are usually taken from the data sheets given with the colour
head. I tried to explain this fact to the Jobo importer in Switzerland but
they were only able to repeat the same sentence "Jobo filters are Kodak
filters".
So, the only remaining solution is to find help from the netters that own a
Jobo/Saunders LPL 4"x5" enlarger. Have you got this information or do I have
the "boring" test-and-try-and-test-and-try-again-and-again process ? If you
got this information, please e-mail it to me. Many thanks in advance.

_Michel Moreaux

--
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Michel Moreaux,                           | "Ceux qui ne savent rien en savent
Ecole Polytechnique Federale de Lausanne  |  toujours tout autant que ceux qui
Departement d'Informatique                |  n'en savent pas plus qu'eux"
Laboratoire d'Informatique Technique      |                  P. Dac.
EL-Ecublens                               |___________________________________
CH-1015 Lausanne                           
Phone # : (21) 693-46-72,   e-mail : moreaux@litsun.epfl.ch
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