HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: goldberg@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Mark Goldberg)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: How can I take a good portrait picture?
Date: 20 Nov 92 18:59:22 GMT
Reply-To: goldberg@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Mark Goldberg)
Followup-To: seong@tellabs.com
Organization: Naval Surface Warfare Center, Annapolis, MD

In rec.photo, seong@tellabs.com (Scott Seong) writes:
>I would like to take a good portrait pictures of my newborn baby.  So far, I
>didn't have any success. 
>[technical specifics deleted] The images weren't sharp enough for enlargement.

Facing a similar shooting situation two years ago with the birth of
my son, I used a Nikon 8008 autofocus camera with one of three AF lenses
(in decsending order of frequency): 60mm f2.8 Micro, 35-135 f3.5/4.5zoom, and
20mm f2.8 AF.  One of the doctors took the birth pix for me while I
was attending my wife; he used the zoom.  I used the 20 to get some
overall shots of the room and people crowded around during visits.
The 60mm weas perfect for nice, sensitive closeups portraits.

Key to everything was Koday Ektapress 1600 film.  It is the best of
the fast films, IMHO.  It handled a variety of lighting situations and
color temepratures, ranging from high-intensity medical lights, to fluorescents
and incandescents, to soft window light.  I chose 1600 because of hospital
request for no flash.  All shots were in focus.  The 60mm allowed me
to hand hold at 1/60 at f2.8.  I used 1/15 sec with the 20.  THe zoom
was at f4 at 1/60 to 1/125.  The autofocus worked great.

The film is somewhat grainy, but that added to the effect of the shots.
Our single favorite shot is a c/u done with the 60mm.  We have made
many enlargements and it holds up quite well.

   /|/| /||)|/  /~ /\| |\|)[~|)/~   |   Everyone's entitled to MY opinion.
  / | |/ ||\|\  \_|\/|_|/|)[_|\\_|  |      goldberg@oasys.dt.navy.mil
========Imagination is more important than knowledge. - Albert Einstein=======
From: monson@hobo.ECE.ORST.EDU (Ty Monson)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: FM & FE + MD11 or MD12
Date: 18 Nov 92 22:11:50 GMT
Article-I.D.: talon.1eef36INN1bj
Organization: ECE Dept.,OSU,Corvallis
NNTP-Posting-Host: hobo.ece.orst.edu

In article <1992Nov18.150742.52251@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu> sh09@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (STEVEN HIGGINS) writes:
>In article <1992Nov17.152446.25970@galileo.cc.rochester.edu>, eugene@briar.lle.r
>ochester.edu (Eugene Kowaluk) writes:
 (old Rubin post deleted)
>>The MD12 drains as much as the MD11, and that's after two trips to Nikon.
>>
 (deletions)
>>If you turn on the drive's power, the camera's meter goes on and stays on.
>>It's only if you leave the drive's power off, and turn on the camera's meter
>>that it powers itself down.

 (delete stuff about FM)
>
>    Using an MD-11 on an FE or FE2 is possible, but will drain the camera
>    batteries whenever it is switched on.  I know, I have one (can you say
>
>    Thought that the MD-12 fixed this problem with the FE/FE2 while retaining
     ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
     no, see below.

>    compatibility with the FM and FM2.
>
>    Anybody else care to clear this up????
>~Steve
>sh09@lehigh.edu
 
 When the MD-12 is on an FE, and it is turned ON,
 the FE meter is on continuously.
 The meter is powered from the camera battery, so the battery drains.
  I don't remember if the automatic meter-off feature of the FE2 remains
  operative or is disabled by the MD-12. But I'll bet Eugene Kowaluk's
  claim that it's disabled is correct.
  In any case, none of these cameras draws power for the meter from the
  motor drive, as is the case with the F3.
From: bruceb@mpd.tandem.com (Bruce Burden)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Red Eyes w/Minolta Maxxim Flash
Date: 18 Nov 92 20:01:36 GMT
Organization: Tandem Computers (MPD) Austin, TX

In article <1992Nov17.191953.18783@spider.co.uk> mikec@spider.co.uk (Mike Coren) writes:
>
>My father has a Minolta Maxxim 5000i (Dynax outside North America, I believe).
>The built-in flash is not very high above the lens, and as a result his pictures
>have terrible red-eye problems (either that, or we have demonically posessed
>relatives, and only the camera can see it!).


	The first camers with built in flash were intended to help with
    backlit situations, hence red-eye wasn't really a problem. However,
    unknowledgable/unscruplous/uncaring people sold these cameras to the
    public who were probably uninformed as to the purpose of the flash
    (not a flame). Anyway, the consumers of these built-in marvels quickly
    became disenchanted with demonic photographs, so the marketing types
    called on the engineers to "solve" this problem. More or less, the
    engineers succeeded, but that doesn't help you too much.

	Anyway, so much for the history. What will probably be the most
    effective is to have a light source behind you. This will cause your
    subject pupils to contract, which will help reduce the chances of
    red-eye. Increase the room illumination. The brighter the better,
    and will again allow the pupil to contract.

	Blue-eyed people have a greater chance of red-eye than dark-eyed
     people. Moving the dark-eyed people towards the center of the frame
     will probably help.

	I don't think a "softbox" over the flash will help, since these
     units are pretty low-power. A tissue (or similiar) will most likely
     cause unacceptable light loss at the edges of the frame.

	Note that a flash mounted on the hotshoe will not end you problems,
     unless it has bounce, because the flash is still close to parallel
     with the lens axis. A TTL cord would be wise to use with  a seperat
     flash. 




								Bruce


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  Bruce Burden            bruceb@mpd.tandem.com         Tandem Computers Inc.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jackson@ponder.csci.unt.edu (Bruce Jackson)
Subject: Lens testing
Organization: University of North Texas, Denton
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 19:54:08 GMT

I just bought a couple of used Nikkor lenses.  They are both in very
good shape cosmetically but I would like to put them throught their
paces optically.  I can return them if I decide that I don't like
them any time in the next couple weeks.

So far it has been suggested that I put my camera on a tripod and
shoot a clasified add page from a newspaper and try to read the fine
print with a microscope at the center and edges.

Is this the best way to quickly test out a lens?  I don't really
want to go into the art and science of lens testing but I just
want to make sure that my lenses are not duds.

 Bruce Jackson         | Univ. of North Texas   | jackson@cs.unt.edu
 UNIX Systems Admin.   | P. O. Box 13886        | GAB 550E (817)565-2279
 Dept. of Computer Sci.| Denton, Tx. 76203-3886 | FAX: (817)5652799


Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: phg+@CS.CMU.EDU (Paul Gleichauf)
Subject: Back issues of Shutterbug-- Looking for a particular loupe.
Keywords: Shutterbug magazine, loupes
Organization: Carnegie Mellon University
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1992 00:37:11 GMT

	I am trying to find a loupe manufacturer that was 
mentioned in Shutterbug magazine about 12-18 months ago.  If
someone happens to keep back issues, and can try to find the
article, I would very much appreciate your relaying the name and
address of the manufacturer. What I remember was that the maker
is a small custom optical shop in Decauter, Georgia.  The loupe
comes in two configurations, one with a slit for retouching, has
about a four inch diameter base, and a distinctive detachable side 
handle. Cost was something like $180.  I think this was in a column
on camera accessories. I did try writing to Shutterbug, and never 
got a reply.
	I did post earlier about alternative high quality loupes,
and I have yet to find anything I like well enough to spend big 
bucks on.  Anyone using the Schneider 6x6 yet?  Can you tell me the
magnification it produces.  This information does not seem to be in
the product literature.  I am basically looking for at least a full
35 mm frame loupe of very high optical quality that has greater than
4 or 5 magnification (6 at least, 8 preferred).
					Thanks for any and all efforts,

						Paul

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: feldman@hal9k.cxo.dec.com (james feldman)
Subject: Re: imaging system needed
Reply-To: feldman@hal9k.cxo.dec.com (james feldman)
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Distribution: rec
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 19:19:11 GMT

In article <8709@lee.SEAS.UCLA.EDU>, annette@curtiss.seas.ucla.edu (Annette K. Nasif) writes:
|>     Hello, I am looking for any information about a kind of camera 
|>(still-life, not video) that can take a picture, digitalize it, and
|>then have it transmitted to a receiver.  A name of a manufacturer would
|>be especially helpful, but I would deeply appreciate any information
|>you may have.  Thank you very much!!       Annette

	You could start with the Kodak DCS systems which uses a Nikon 8008
body/lens plus a ccd back.  Leaf Systems just introduced a digital back for
"studio" cameras (read 120 type format).  Rollie and Arca both have a digital
back also.  At the much lower end resolution wise, there is a small digital
camera called Photoman (I think thats the name) for MAC's and PC's.  I believe
that all of these require either a specialized box or pc to DLL the pictures to
before transmission.
        
--
Jim Feldman                         || This space for lease, contact your
Digital Equipment Corp              || Digital Sales Rep.
CSC/Colorado Springs                || 

My opinions are my own and in no way reflect Digital's POV (unless they're
charging somebody for me to give them).
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: pd@sics.se (Per Danielsson)
Subject: Rebels (was Re: Rebel vs. Rebel II (2))
Organization: Swedish Institute of Computer Science
	<1992Nov20.005528.4881@cs.cornell.edu>
	<1992Nov19.210806.12086@jarvis.csri.toronto.edu>
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 10:40:56 GMT

In article <1992Nov19.210806.12086@jarvis.csri.toronto.edu> acs@csri.toronto.edu (Alvin Chia-Hua Shih) writes:

>Another feature of the Rebel II's is the quieter film drive, with
>technology borrowed from the Elan.

Yes, but it is not quite as quiet as the Elan (EOS 100).

There are 4 Rebels (non-US names in parentheses):
EOS Rebel		(EOS 1000)
EOS Rebel S		(EOS 1000F)
EOS Rebel II		(EOS 1000N)
EOS Rebel IIS		(EOS 1000FN)

The Rebel S and the Rebel IIS are the versions with built-in flash.
--
Per Danielsson				pd@sics.se
Swedish Institute of Computer Science, PO Box 1263, S-164 28 KISTA, SWEDEN
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: usenet@adobe.com (USENET NEWS)
Subject: Re: Camera Feature Wars - Photo Getting Like Video
Originator: asanders@sparta
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1992 02:06:21 GMT

| Machines do things and this gives me more leasure time that I can spend 
| out in the backcountry... Some things, like driving in rush hour traffic, 
| can indeed be stressful. But you don't have to do it, you have an option.

						-Dyer Lytle  

Despite all the things that machines do for us, collectively we seem to
be getting farther and farther away from the "life of leisure" that
futurists were predicting twenty years ago. Contemporary life is incredibly
stressful for most people. Alarmingly so, I'd say. Some people have options,
it's true. But most of us are deeply enmeshed. Sure, you can move to
"someplace better" (wherever that is!), leaving a lifetime of friends
familiar places behind. It's much easier to talk about it than to do it!
You can ride your bike, but what do you do if the air isn't fit to breathe?
I drive three hours a day in order to live someplace beautiful and sane,
but my commute is yet another source of stress! What to do...

						-Alan


Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: garyp@vcd.hp.com ()
Subject: Re: putting photos on a wall.. (?)
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 17:11:36 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard VCD
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5

A few words about mounting photos on foam core:  I have a few medium
sized posters adhesively mounted on foam core.  They all warped quite
a bit after a short time and remain warped.  I am thinking of
sandwiching them with glass or acrylic with those plastic clip
thingies to flatten them.  It should also make them look better too.

I picked up a data sheet on foam core at the local art supply store.
It had a strong warning against adhesively mounting artwork - it
stated doing so would probably result in a warped product.  (Now I
find out  :-))  But, it suggested that if you must mount something,
then mount a similar material on the back side to control the warping.

I helped a friend hang some large posters with foam core, glass and
the plastic clip thingies.  The posters are just loose (unmounted),
sandwiched between the foam core and glass.  It's relatively
inexpensive, stays flat, and looks great.

garyp@vcd.hp.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: wedman@ucsu.Colorado.EDU (WEDMAN DOUGLAS EDWARD)
Subject: Slide Labeler--Should I post?
Summary: Omega 35mm SLS Ver 3.3
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 22:18:39 GMT

Attention Netters:
   I've been working on a 35mm slide labeling and database program which I
am releasing as FREEWARE.  There are still a few small bugs which I am 
trying to work out, but it is quite useable.  I call it the Omega 35mm Slide
Labeling System.  The current version is 3.3.  My question to you netters/
photo bufs is this:  what are the best locations for making this available?
Should I post to this newsgroup?  I am asking first because I am aware that
posting binaries to such groups often invokes a lot of flaming responses.  If
a large number of people are interested in this RELEVANT program, I will post
rather than mail to individuals.  If interested, post here or mail to:
           wedman@ucsu.colorado.edu
I will try to get the latest version uploaded from my home computer to my
mainframe host as soon as I have the time (May not be till next week.)
BTW: DOS 3.2 or greater, EGA/VGA, hard drive system req'd.

-Doug 
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: rslugg@med.unc.edu (Robert Slugg)
Subject: Re: colour balance: enlarged vs. contact?
Organization: UNC-CH School of Medicine
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 21:32:10 GMT

Are you using a yellow speed easel?  This caused a 40cc yellow shift when
I did my first cibachromes.  For color neg I guess an easel equally cyan
and magenta would give a yellow cast.  I switched to an all black easel
for ciba printing and two things happened, the color shift disappeared and
the prints were sharper too as no light was reflecting off theeasel and
re-exposing the emulsion.

Bob


Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jgn@homebrew.bellcore.com ()
Subject: Linhof tech III for Rollei SLX?
Reply-To: jgn@homebrew.bellcore.com ()
Organization: Bellcore, Morristown, NJ
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 92 20:58:48 GMT

I'm considering trading my "baby" Linhof Tech III with two lenses (105 & 65)
for a German made Rollei SLX.  Reasons: I want something smaller, lighter,
and faster than the Linhof. Question is: am I going to be sorry?

Any opinions appreciated.

Cheers,

Joe N.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: "Pete Pulliam" pete@u.washington.edu
Subject: Besseler 23C Color enlarger
Followup-To: pete@u.washington.edu
Summary: need info on Besseler 23C color enlarger
Originator: pete@stein.u.washington.edu
Keywords: darkroom enlarger 
Reply-To: pete@u.washington.edu
Organization: very little
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 18:33:33 GMT

I'm in the market for a color enlarger, and I have a chance to buy a 
used Besseler 23C color enlarger (plus misc other equipment) for $300.
I currently have no info about this enlarger, so anything you know 
would be appreciated.

I'm looking for a good color enlarger that can handle both 35 mm and 
6x7 though I don't really need the 6x7 right now.  I want something
that is very stable and can help me make exceptional prints.  
The maximum size print I can process right now is 12"x16", 
so the enlarger needs to be able to do at least that size.  Does
this enlarger fit the bill?


	Pete
	pete@u.washington.edu


Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: ben_wen@athena.mit.edu (Benson Wen)
Subject: Re: 80-200/f2.8 for $$$, why?
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology
	<1992Nov19.035957.3597@walter.bellcore.com>
	<1992Nov19.182009.4194@cbnewsm.cb.att.com>
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 21:49:15 GMT

In article <1992Nov19.182009.4194@cbnewsm.cb.att.com> ka1gt@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (robert.m.atkins) writes:

   In article <1992Nov19.035957.3597@walter.bellcore.com>, jchen@wind.bellcore.com (Jason Chen) writes:
   > There seems to be a lot of interest in fast but expensive zoom lenses such
   > as the 80-200/f2.8. I am sure there must be special applications where
   > the additional stop worth the money, but I can't understand why there is
   > so much interest in paying the large premium for the extra stop.
   > 
   If you are not a pro (or a photography obsessed amateur!) you probably don't
   need the extra stop. What it gives you is:

   1 - Ability to take pictures earlier or later in the day (nature photographers
   often work at dawn and dusk).

..stuff deleted

   8 - Tripod mount on lens (I think this is true for the example you quote)

you forgot:

9 - Freudian compensation.  The EF80-200f2.8L is the largest, longest,
    heaviest, and among the widest of the black-barrelled EF zooms.  The
    Nikon is no small beast either.
10- Ego.  :)

-Ben
--

|| Benson Wen
|| ben_wen@athena.mit.edu
|| queeph@hing.lcs.mit.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: hintzman@hpljah.hpl.hp.com (Jeff Hintzman)
Subject: Re: For Sale
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 22:10:47 GMT
Reply-To: hintzman@hpljah.hpl.hp.com
Organization: HP IC Business Division R&D, Palo Alto, CA

In article <1992Nov17.210847.6055@leland.Stanford.EDU>, ianchan@leland.Stanford.EDU (Ian Hin Yun Chan) writes:
|> My Delta60 is a 3-yr old British integrated amp that puts out 55Wpc into
|> 8ohms, and has a max current delivery of 10A. It's frequency response is
|> 30-35,000Hz +/- 0.5dB, and is built with quality components (eg. torroidal
|> transformer, polypropylene caps). A lot of care has gone into the making of
|> the amp - in fact, the signatures of the people who assembled and tested
|> the unit can be found on the circuit board.
|> If you're looking for a reliable and well-built product with great sound
|> (eg. bass authority, smooth treble, sparkling midrange), the Delta60 has got
|> it all. And for my asking price of $400, I doubt you'll be able to find
|> any other amp that matches it's value for money (it was 400 pounds new).

Hmmm.  400 pounds sounds a little heavy for my tripod ;-)

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jeff Hintzman                                  hintzman@hpljah.hpl.hp.com
Hewlett-Packard Integrated Circuit Business Division 
Palo Alto, CA                                              (415) 857-7616
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: shun@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (shun.cheung)
Subject: Re: Nikon N8008S vs. N90 - opinions wanted
Organization: AT&T
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1992 16:45:45 GMT

In article <24193@alice.att.com> ark@alice.UUCP () writes:
>
>I would not consider an N8008S, but might even prefer an N90 over
>an F4 at the same price because of the size and weight.

Boy, I sure hope that nobody from Nikon reads this, or the price
for the N90 will rise soon. :-)
-- 
-- Shun Cheung,    electronic: shun.cheung@att.com    voice: (908) 615-5135
     HR 1A-304, AT&T Bell Labs, 480 Red Hill Road, Middletown, NJ, 07748 USA
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: robert@sys.sweden.dg.com (Robert Claeson)
Subject: Re: filters,....
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 08:37:52 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Data General AB, Akalla, Sweden

In article <BxnqLB.9MH@ucunix.san.uc.edu>, mandayrv@ucunix.san.uc.edu (Prince of Wales) writes:

> A few days back I purchased a promotional package offered by ILFORD:
> 25 sheets of ILFORD multigrade III RCdeluxe with a packet of 12 3.5" x 3.5"
> filters and a handbook of black and white printing control techniques. 
> 
> After opening the package I realized that there was no way that I could
> currently use the filters since my enlarger does not have a large enough
> filter holder to accomodate these filters either between the lens and the
> light source or below the lens and the negative carrier. I was a bit pissed
> off, but then I started thinking "where else can I use these filters?"

I've used many different enlargers, only one of which had a filter drawer
that had the right size for the filters. So I was quite accustomed to
cutting the filters to fir the enlarger. You should have no difficulties
doing the same. Just make sure to not cut the edge where the filter number
is located.

> I have been planning on getting CC025M and CC05M filters for my 4x5 
> set up. I had delayed purchasing them for a variety of reasons primarily 
> because I had to mail order them and I did not feel like ordering just 
> one or two filters. However, on going through the graded filters, I noticed
> that the ILFORD filters #4, #4.5 and #5 had a distinct Magenta color. I then
> realized that I could use these as the filters for my 4x5 set up. Matter of
> fact, I could also use the other filters #0 through #3.5 for other color
> corrections needed with my 4x5 setup. 
> 
> My questions are: 
> 
> 1) 	Does anybody have any experience in this kind of setup? 

I currently use a color enlarger and use its filters to vary the contrast.
However, the settings can vary a lot between different enlargers. They
can also vary a lot between different kinds of lamp bulbs.

-- 
------------------------------ END OF MESSAGE ------------------------------
Robert Claeson                Internet: robert@sys.sweden.dg.com
Data General AB                         robert@sys.dg.se
Box 28                             CEO: robert@sys.sweden.dg.com:dg-smtp
S-164 93 KISTA                     Tel: +46 (0)8-92 55 00
Sweden                             Fax: +46 (0)8-751 36 22
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: usenet@adobe.com (USENET NEWS)
Subject: Re: Big/fast EOS lens advice sought
Originator: asanders@sparta
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 19:22:17 GMT

| Nikon on the other hand is still playing catchup in autofocus 
| lens mount technology.
			   -Gary Snow

Here we go again! :->

Nikon is only playing "catch up" in the eyes of techno-junkies who
equate overall excellence with the latest in super-duper features.
Canon's AF system may be slightly faster than Nikon's, but thousands
of serious photographers are very well satisfied with their 8008
and 8008s cameras; and the new N90, by all accounts, offers better
AF performance than even the F4--all of this without abandoning
the traditional bayonet mount that still accepts Nikon lenses made
more than twenty years ago.

I've borrowed Canon EOS cameras a couple of times, and they do
focus very quietly. That's nice, but... Canon's AF system "hunts" 
just as often as Nikon's in low-contrast situations, and my 8008s 
will autofocus in significantly lower light than the Canons will.

Canon makes excellent cameras. No doubt about it. A little too
much plastic for my taste, but that *is* (most likely) a matter
of preference. But I certainly wouldn't say that Nikon is playing
"catch up". I'd rather say that, in abandoning the Canon FD mount 
(and leaving its entire installed base high and dry), Canon has
given up the race. They may feel that they can beat Nikon to the 
"finish line" (wherever that is!) by taking this alternate route,
but only time will tell. Everybody's experimenting with the
technology these days, and hopefully the best will endure.

						-Alan


Newsgroups: rec.photo