HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: prener@watson.ibm.com (Dan Prener)
Subject: Re: Is there an actor
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1993 06:51:49 GMT
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
	<C1C0z0.1tu@ecf.toronto.edu>
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center, Hawthorne, New York

In article <C1C0z0.1tu@ecf.toronto.edu> pelton@ecf.toronto.edu (PELTON MATTHEW ALAN) writes:

>   Doesn't anybody think that the stage direction "beat" is related to the
> expression "he let a beat pass."  Folk etymology says it's related to the
> musical beat (unit of time).  The stage direction says to rest for one
> musical beat.

I'll buy that.  And, for those still looking for quantitative information,
folk musicology suggests that an otherwise unspecified beat is the length
of the (human) heart beat.  The actual line I have heard is that "fast" and
"slow" in music can, in the absence of additional information, be 
interpreted, respectively, as faster than the heart beat, and slower than
the heart beat.
--
                                   Dan Prener (prener@watson.ibm.com)
From: crawford@ben.dev.upenn.edu (Lauren L. Crawford)
Newsgroups: alt.usage.english
Subject: Re: Canadian English
Date: 25 Jan 93 20:17:57 GMT
Organization: University of Pennsylvania

In article <C1C1AC.2ED@ecf.toronto.edu> pelton@ecf.toronto.edu (PELTON MATTHEW ALAN) writes:

>  We all say "I'm not too *crazy* about burgers."

You're obviously not American.  We're all crazy about burgers down here.


-- 
I can identify with steelworkers.  I can identify with workers that have
had a difficult time.      -- Former Vice-President Danforth Quayle
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Lauren Crawford  //  crawford@ben.dev.upenn.edu
From: richardg@idca.tds.philips.nl (Richard Grear)
Newsgroups: alt.usage.english
Subject: Re: The word FUCK
Date: 26 Jan 93 12:11:18 GMT
Reply-To: richardg@nofssrv.syssup.tds.philips.nl (Richard Grear)
Disclaimer: This is not necessarily the opinion of anyone else

In <727839462snx@sloth.equinox.gen.nz> hairy@sloth.equinox.gen.nz (Phil Anderson) writes:
Just my 2d worth, but could the work FUCK not have originated from the 
low german (as many of the other words did)? I know that in Dutch a "fokker"
is a breeder of e.g. horses or dogs.

Opinions?


>  > >I've heard from an artsie friend that the original inhabitants of Britain 
>  > >(the Angles and Saxons) used the word FUCK as a normal part of their 
>  > >language. 
>  > 
>  > Well, they certainly didn't write it, and there are quite a few Anglo-Saxon
>  > texts.  

>What word did they use? I ask out of pure prurience...

-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
In antici........                                                  ......pation
                        richardg@ccm.tds.philips.nl
                            hlde01::grear_r
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
In antici........                                                  ......pation
                        richardg@ccm.tds.philips.nl
                            hlde01::grear_r
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique,alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: sffcu@cuais01.cc.columbia.edu (Stew Feuerstein)
Subject: Re: Low Oil Pressure!  Help!
Organization: Columbia University
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 22:53:06 GMT

In article <C1H5vC.GM7@csn.org> dhaile@teal.csn.org (David Haile) writes:
>
>High-mileage (225K) 1968 Buick 430 V8 doesn't burn oil but has
>trouble keeping oil pressure.  
>
>Background:
>
>I have a 1968 Buick Electra 225 Convertible with 225,000 miles on
>the original 430 4bbl V8....
>
>Problem:
>
>At seemingly random intervals of 4 weeks or so, the oil pressure
>disappears almost altogether.  I have a pretty good mechanical
>oil pressure gauge in the car, so this is easy to monitor.  It
>would normally run at 20lbs around town and up to 22-25 on the
>highway.  When the oil pressure disappears, I can get it to as
>high as 10lbs around 2000 rpm, but it is very near zero at idle. 
>The inside of the valve covers look very filled-up with crud, so
>maybe the whole engine is filled with crud and just needs a good
>purging with some internal engine cleaner.  I've also considered
>replacing just the oil pump with a high-volume version, but will
>wait until real advice comes before I do anything.
>
	I can think of two possible causes of your 'problem'.  The simplest 
one is that you don't have a problem.  One possible cause of reported low 
oil pressure is clogged oil passageways between the pump and the oil 
pressure sending unit, or for a mechanical gauge a kink in the plastic or 
copper feed line.   If your only had 10lbs of oil pressure at highway speeds 
for any extended period of time you probably would have spun a rod bearing 
by now.  You might try removing the gauge, crank the engine and see if oil 
readily spurts out from the feed line or from the tapped hole in the block.  
Perhaps this will dislodge any crud in these lines.  Then it is probably 
worth a few bucks to buy another oil pressure gauge and hook it up with a 
short length of feed line under the hood and see if it agrees with your 
current gauge.  I would not do any extensive work until you are convinced 
their is really a problem!
	If you really do have a problem.  Someone suggested pumping thinner 
through the oil pump.  This is a good idea, but be carefull about where the
thinner ends up.  It could potentially cause problems.  If you are carefull 
it might work for you.  As for the cause, my 1966 Olds V8 and other friends 
GM V8s had oil pressure problems.  It turned out they were caused by the 
timing chain gears.  On GM V8s (I am not positive about Buick 430) the gears 
are metal with plastic covering over the teeth.  After about 70,000 miles 
and 10 years the plastic breaks up and the little pieces end up in the oil 
pickup screen.  In my experience the best way to fix this is to remove the 
oil pan clean it out and clean out or replace the oil pickup.

				-Stew Feuerstein
Xref: sparky alt.autos.antique:2491 rec.autos.antique:548
From: franko@cco.caltech.edu (Frank Filipanits)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique,rec.autos.antique
Subject: '68 Mustang PS/susp. help!!
Date: 24 Jan 1993 08:15:34 GMT
Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena
NNTP-Posting-Host: alumni.caltech.edu

Grrrrr.  A ciderblock appeared from underneath the Bronco in front of
me a while back and did a number on the power steering valve on my 
'68 Mustang.  I crawled underneath yesterday, and after much struggling
and straining I still could not get the damn thing off!

I removed the nut from the ball stud/pitman arm, removed the clamp
and pin on the control valve, removed the hoses.  But the thing wouldn't
budge.  I figure the whole drag link assy should drop down at the 
valve end when the pitman arm nut is removed (and some force applied), 
allowing you to unscrew the valve assy from the drag link.  Am I wrong?
Do you need to remove the Idler arm nut also?  What about the tie rod
ends?  I'm thoroughly disgusted with this.  I've done most of the repairs
on my 'stang myself, including replacing the engine (what fun that was!)
and really abhor the idea of taking it in.  (besides which, I'm broke.)
Any suggestions/helpful hints?  Anyone replace their power steering
recently?  Anyone know what's involved in converting to manual steering?
Does it just need a whack with a REALLY big hammer?  (I did give it several
good shots with a standard claw hammer)

Thanks much.

-- 
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Frank Filipanits Jr.    B.S. EE/Music, California Institute of Technology '92
XYZ Consultants         M.S. Music Engineering, University of Miami       '94
franko@alumni.caltech.edu  "Top fuel funny car's the drug for me..." - M Crue
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique,alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: espen@itekiris.kjemi.unit.no (Epsonasjen)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique,alt.autos.rod-n-custom
Subject: Re: Low Oil Pressure!  Help!
Keywords: Oil pressure return valve
Date: 27 Jan 93 08:56:24 GMT
Organization: SINTEF

In article <C1H5vC.GM7@csn.org> dhaile@teal.csn.org (David Haile) writes:
>From: dhaile@teal.csn.org (David Haile)
>Subject: Low Oil Pressure!  Help!
>Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 18:54:45 GMT
>Abstract (for inclusion with follow-up News postings):
>
>High-mileage (225K) 1968 Buick 430 V8 doesn't burn oil but has
>trouble keeping oil pressure.  Owner requests advice on whether
>complete engine needs replacement or if he can get another 75K
>miles off of short block.  Heads have never been rebuilt.
>
>
>Background:
>
>I have a 1968 Buick Electra 225 Convertible with 225,000 miles on
>the original 430 4bbl V8.  The engine has never been opened up
>and I suspect that the carb. has never been rebuilt.  All of the
>miles are from an easy 50mph 50-mile/day commute.  I inherited it
>from my mother-in-law, who purchased it new.  I'm pretty sure
>that the slight chugging sound during light acceleration means
>that I need a valve job, but I'm trying to decide if that is all
>that I absolutely have to do.  I do drive the car daily, but I
>only put 7,000 miles/year on it.  If I could get it to go to
>300,000 miles (10 more years!) I would be ecstatic.  It currently
>needs only one quart of oil every 1000 miles, but I think half of
>that is due to leaking from various sources, none of which are
>the main seals. 
>
>
>Problem:
>
>At seemingly random intervals of 4 weeks or so, the oil pressure
>disappears almost altogether.  I have a pretty good mechanical
>oil pressure gauge in the car, so this is easy to monitor.  It
>would normally run at 20lbs around town and up to 22-25 on the
>highway.  When the oil pressure disappears, I can get it to as
>high as 10lbs around 2000 rpm, but it is very near zero at idle. 
>The inside of the valve covers look very filled-up with crud, so
>maybe the whole engine is filled with crud and just needs a good
>purging with some internal engine cleaner.  I've also considered
>replacing just the oil pump with a high-volume version, but will
>wait until real advice comes before I do anything.
>



As long as this is not a *regular* problem, this does not sound as 
a 'replace the engine' job.  I would suspect the oil pressure return 
valve, or possibly just oil pump wear.  As long as this is something which 
happens at random intervals I'd go for the return valve..



************************************************************************
Espen Olsen				*       The future's so bright
Norwegian Inst. of Technology		*       I gotta wear shades
N-7034 Trondheim                        *       '74 VOLVO !!!
E-mail: espen@itekiris.kjemi.unit.no	*	'57 Speed Twin
LA6MGA/LA1K,	DoD#7962		*	'58 Land Rover

YASS	(Yet another stupid .sig ............)						
Xref: sparky alt.autos.antique:2494 alt.autos.rod-n-custom:451
From: walkerr@bigwpi.WPI.EDU (Robert A Walker)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique,alt.autos.rod-n-custom
Subject: Re: Low Oil Pressure!  Help!
Date: 26 Jan 1993 21:43:30 GMT
Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute
NNTP-Posting-Host: bigwpi.wpi.edu

>High-mileage (225K) 1968 Buick 430 V8 doesn't burn oil but has
>trouble keeping oil pressure.  Owner requests advice on whether
>complete engine needs replacement or if he can get another 75K
>miles off of short block.  Heads have never been rebuilt.

>maybe the whole engine is filled with crud and just needs a good
>purging with some internal engine cleaner.  I've also considered

	A word of advice which some might not agree with is don't use anything
that would move all the crud that is found in older engines around, a lot
of times the crud will come off in chunks and plug up the oil passage ways,
also the crud might be keeping your main seals from leaking.  I was told that
slick 50 will move all the crud around in older engines and kill them instead
of making them "last longer".  Just my 2 cents of non-wisdom.


Xref: sparky alt.autos.antique:2497 alt.autos.rod-n-custom:458
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
Subject: '49 Chevy steering
From: "Nathan J. Nagel" <nn22+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 09:46:05 -0500 
Organization: Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA

   Does anyone know where I can get a steering box for my '49 Chevy? 
The present one has far too much play in it.  I called an ad in
Hemmings, and the nice man told me it would cost me $125 for a "good"
used one.  He also recommended using a '53-'54 steering box and said
they bolted right in.  Is there any way I could use a newer (Saginaw,
etc.) manual steering box with the original column without too much
hacking and cutting?  I don't want to have to radically alter the
suspension (Mustang II kits, etc...) because it looks to have been
recently rebuilt by the poor schmuck who had the car before me and also
I have spent good money installing Camaro discs on the original
spindles.  Any comments/help/etc. on any of the above would be greatly
appreciated.

-Nate

Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: sosc1092@wc14.writer.yorku.ca (Vijay Doobay)
Subject: Re: Vericom Corp info?
Organization: York University
Distribution: Anywhere, and Everywhere
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 18:55:01 GMT

In article <C1FJsE.MIn@news.rich.bnr.ca> (Eric Youngblood) writes:
> Anyone know how to contact Vericom?  Is there a phone number or
> address to write to.  None of the local performance shops around
> here have a clue.  I am interested in some auto test equipment.
> 
> $0.02
> 
> Ericy 
> 
> 
>       *---------------------------------+---------------------------*
>       | Eric Youngblood                                             |
>       | Bell-Northern Research    _                                 |
>       | Richardson, Texas 75082 _| ~-                               |
>       |                         \,  _}                              |
>       |                           \(    +---------------------------|
>       |                                 |   Peon w/o Email privs    |
>       *---------------------------------+---------------------------*


Are you at all intersted in the Vericom 2000 computer?? Up here in Canada,  
the unit goes for about $400.  But all it does is tells yuou the quarter  
mile time, 0-60, and that's about it. It won't help you improve your  
driving at all.  If that is waht you are looking for, then mabey you  
should look into a G-Analysist.  They are roughly $1000 US, and they do  
everyting for you.

[-------------------------------------]/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\
[---------- Mr. Vijay Doobay ---------]\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/
[-----------York University ----------]/\/\/\/\/\/1993\/\/\/\/\/\
[---------- Toronto, Canada-----------]\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/
[-------------------------------------]/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: sosc1092@wc14.writer.yorku.ca (Vijay Doobay)
Subject: Re: Heads for '87 Mustang
Organization: York University
Distribution: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 21:02:18 GMT

In article <1993Jan15.095640.7511@eua.ericsson.se> ebcurg@eua.ericsson.se  
(Ulf Rosberg) writes:
> jcross@aud.alcatel.com writes:
> 
> >I am trying to decide on buying the Ford Motorsport GT-40 heads as
> >apposed to getting the stock heads ported w/ larger valves. Does
> >anyone know (in reality) how much better the GT-40 vs stock heads
> >are when the same valve sizes are used??? Is it worth about $200
> >extra for the new heads? I've already got the large intake pieces
> >but need bigger valves to use the difference. Anyone with any
> >experience in this area would be great.
> 
> >Just this guy,
> >Jeff
> 
> In Hot Rod Mustang magazine middle of 92, I don't no exact the number,
> has tested the JBA heads.
> And I think JBA is better.
> 
> -- 


Hey There.

Speaking of heads. have you ever considered the DART II heads??  Most of  
the people that I know that replace heads, don't really bother porting the  
stock heads.  They save themselves the time and trouble and go with the  
DART II heads with small valves.  There is no pooint in drowning the motor  
with large intake valves and exhaust valves, unless you are adding a lumpy  
cam.  I wouln't add a cam without doing headwork, and upper and lower  
intake work.  A cam added to a stock motor will make less horse power!   
Yes! Proven!  23 horsepower less.  Despite what you read in a magazine, I  
have seen the Dyno results...  Bottom end power dropped off the scale,  
while top end power didn't increase all that much to warrent pulling the  
motor apart to stick in the cam.

[-------------------------------------]/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\
[---------- Mr. Vijay Doobay ---------]\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/
[-----------York University ----------]/\/\/\/\/\/1993\/\/\/\/\/\
[---------- Toronto, Canada-----------]\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/
[-------------------------------------]/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: nitram@tellabs.com (Marty Hewes)
Subject: Re: V-8 in a Fiero
Summary: Worth the trouble?
Organization: Tellabs, Inc.
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 18:59:53 GMT

In article <238@mogun.UUCP>, dcg@mogun.UUCP (David Gunsul) writes:
> In article <1jeiseINNb7v@lynx.unm.edu>, mwalker@chama.eece.unm.edu (Mark Walker) writes:
> > In article <237@mogun.UUCP>, dcg@mogun.UUCP (David Gunsul) writes:
> > 
> > [Original post omitted...]
> > 
> > > I don't know if this has been discussed or not but, if your interested,
> > > I have the address of a company that sells a BIG-BLOCK kit.
> > 

I have no doubt that it'd be a head turner, but I don't think it would be worth 
the trouble for brute acceleration.

I was dissapointed to see that Fiero's are around 2900 pounds, from the sources 
I have.  That puts them about 300 pounds lighter than my 82 Z28, and that's with
a small motor, battery, and cooling system.  By the time you build this thing up,
it'll be heavy, and you still can't fit a trans that will hold a healthy big block.

Now, an aluminum 302 with twin turbo's I could see.  Maybe not enough torque off the
line to scatter the trans?

I have considered a big block in the Z-28.

Marty
From: walkerr@holly.WPI.EDU (Robert A Walker)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
Subject: Re: 400M c.i. '68 Mustang
Date: 28 Jan 1993 15:19:22 GMT
Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute
NNTP-Posting-Host: holly.wpi.edu

>Has anyone ever placed, or heard of, a 400M c.i. Ford engine in a '68
>Mustang?  I need to know if you can get engine mounts or if you have to
>fabricate them yourself.  Also, any problems that are encountered.  Is

	The 400M is mainly a truck engine used from the mid '70s to early '80s
I don't know what engine came out of your mustang, since i'm not a mustang
fanatic, sorry.  But the 400M is a stroked version of a 351M.  Its a fairly
straght out conversion from a 429/460 to a 351M/400 and vice versa, but
from a 302/351w/351c it is a different story requiring all sorts of neat 
little adaptors and the 351M/400 is considerably larger than 351W/C.  ITs 
not exactly a high revving motor, also the heads on some 351M/400 have 
water passages that SEVERLY restict exaust flow, these aren't that bad for
a low end mild performance engine, but if you want something that will
rev to 6 or 7 grand and still pull strong then you might have to go 
find a different set of heads.  
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom,rec.autos
From: easton@zds-oem.zds.com (Jeff Easton)
Subject: Re: 1994 Pontiac GTO
Organization: Zenith Data Systems, OEM Systems Engineering
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 21:18:54 GMT

In article <kenow.9@stpaul.ncr.com> kenow@stpaul.ncr.com (TONY KENOW) writes:
>
>>i believe the monte will be based on the *lumina*, not the beretta.
>>and i don't care about it...i want to know about the GTO!  :)
>
>At my last GTO meeting I heard of some details on the 1994 GTO.  My memory 
>may be a little fuzzy but here it goes.  The 1994 GTO will be based on the 
>Gran Prix platform modified to be rear wheel drive.  The body will be styled 
>after the 1968 GTO (I don't know what they meant by that).  There were two 
>engines being discussed, 1) an engine from the Corvette ZR-5 (I think thats 
>the right model), and 2) another that I can't remember exactly but I think 
>it's a 3.4 litre engine from an existing GM car.  Plus the standard 
>suspension upgrades for high performance cars.

  I think this may be more wishful thinking than anything else.  The
current Grand Prix would require _major_ surgery to convert it to
rear wheel drive and be able to stuff a V8 into the engine bay.  Maybe
when the redesigned ones come out in '95(?).

>Check out the magazine "GTO Enthusiast" in one of the future issues for a 
>full article on this car.  I don't know how large the circulation is for 
>this magazine.  
>
>Tony Kenow
>68 GTO Convertible
-- 
  ___  ___    Jeff Easton             easton@zds-oem.zds.com
 (__  (__     Zenith Data Systems     j.easton@mi04.zds.com
 ___) ___)    Saint Joseph, Mich.     easton@andrews.edu
Monte Carlo   Z-400 Series - Team Rigel
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: sosc1092@wc14.writer.yorku.ca (Vijay Doobay)
Subject: Re: harmonic balancer
Organization: York University
Distribution: Anywhere, and Everywhere
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 20:56:31 GMT

In article <1993Jan13.202250.441@jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca> trogers@mta.ca  
writes:
> 	Here's a good question for you all.  I have a '73 Duster with a 
> 360 motor, J casting heads, 340 intake , 650 cfm Carter AVS carb, and
> headers.  It was orginally a A903 transmission car and I put in a 
> 8 3/4 3.23 rear end and a 3 speed manual transmission in it.  The
> 360 motors had an externally balanced crankshaft, requiring specially
> balanced flywheels and harmonic balancers for the few years they were
> made with maunal trannies.  I have a proper flywheel, but I haven't
> the proper harmonic balancer.  It is in storage for the winter, but I
> don't want to ruin the crank. How essential is the specail balancer ?
> Is there any real difference.  If anyone knows what the EXACT difference
> is, let me know......
> 			Thanks,
> 				Trevor Rogers 

Hey Trevor...

	Have you ever heard of a harmonic balancer called FLUIDDAMPR??  It  
is suposed to be one of the best best products on the markey.  Check with  
one of the performance stores in your area.  SOmeone should carry it  
there.

That should solve the problem.

[-------------------------------------]/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\
[---------- Mr. Vijay Doobay ---------]\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/
[-----------York University ----------]/\/\/\/\/\/1993\/\/\/\/\/\
[---------- Toronto, Canada-----------]\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/
[-------------------------------------]/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom,rec.autos
From: kenow@stpaul.ncr.com (TONY KENOW)
Subject: Re: 1994 Pontiac GTO
Organization: WAN Interface Development
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 15:59:13 GMT


>i believe the monte will be based on the *lumina*, not the beretta.
>and i don't care about it...i want to know about the GTO!  :)

At my last GTO meeting I heard of some details on the 1994 GTO.  My memory 
may be a little fuzzy but here it goes.  The 1994 GTO will be based on the 
Gran Prix platform modified to be rear wheel drive.  The body will be styled 
after the 1968 GTO (I don't know what they meant by that).  There were two 
engines being discussed, 1) an engine from the Corvette ZR-5 (I think thats 
the right model), and 2) another that I can't remember exactly but I think 
it's a 3.4 litre engine from an existing GM car.  Plus the standard 
suspension upgrades for high performance cars.

Check out the magazine "GTO Enthusiast" in one of the future issues for a 
full article on this car.  I don't know how large the circulation is for 
this magazine.  

Tony Kenow
68 GTO Convertible
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom