HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: gryphon@openage.openage.com (The Golden Gryphon)
Subject: Re: Killing Burglars
Organization: Open Age, Inc.
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 16:16:11 GMT

patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie) writes:

>In article <BsIrII.Bou@news.cso.uiuc.edu> tmkk@uiuc.edu (Khan) writes:

>>Unfortunately, with the stupid laws we have, the burglar can turn around
>>and SUE YOU, win outrageous pain and suffering awards, etc. even though
>>HE broke into YOUR house!

>The problem here is simply that juries refuse to believe that an individual
>who has proven that he is willing to risk 20 years in prison or more to
>get a few bucks will not be willing to risk 10 years for perjury to set
>himself up for life. The civil trial then becomes a matter of whether he
>can lie convincingly or not, and most criminals have *lots* of practice at
>this.

>The solution is simple. Under today's laws we take away certain rights from
>convicted felons (the right to vote, the right to own firearms, the right
>to own certain tools, etc.). Take away their right to sue.

My solution is to shoot the burgler.  Three times, no more no less, and 
wait until they are in the house!  If the first shot sends them outside
drag them back in and shoot them twice more.

-- 
The Golden Gryphon 				gryphon@openage.COM
Solve a man's problem and he has 1 less.        No incumbents in 92.
Teach a man to think, and all his problems are less.
Openage - The Premier SCO UNIX integrator in the Washington D.C. area
From: n9020351@henson.cc.wwu.edu (James Douglas Del-Vecchio)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Killing burglars.
Date: 20 Aug 92 17:24:31 GMT
Article-I.D.: henson.1992Aug20.172431.15116
Organization: Western Washington University


   One thing that some posters seem to be forgetting, is that the original
poster did not reccomend punishing criminals, chasing burglars and killing
them, punishing anybody, or anything that could be construed as "taking
the law into his hands", "vigilantism" "administering justice on his own", 
etc., at all.

   He said, (If I am talking about the same poster), that he would use 
lethal force to protect himself from an intruder, who is obviously a 
potential grave threat to himself and his family.   The only matter of 
relevence to him is how to minimize harm to his own family and himself,
a "no-nonsense" attitude which is perfectly legitimate.

   He did mumble about "criminals have no rights", but if he said "chasing 
a running criminal", "preventing a fleeing intruder from leaving", 
"administering justice", etc,  were goals, like a few follow ups have 
mentioned, then I guess that was from a post that didn't show up at my site.

Jim Del Vecchio
From: jheath@CERIS.Purdue.EDU (Jim Heath)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Shooting, Poisoning, Cruelty
Date: 12 Aug 92 16:21:21 GMT
Organization: Center for Environmental and Regulatory Information Systems, Purdue University

From article <1992Aug11.233135.18141@u.washington.edu>, by roger@wrq.com (Roger Fulton):
> In article <1992Aug7.164259.23379@Arco.COM> dbsjwb@Edm.arco.com writes:
>>
>>The cruelty and violence suggested and/or advocated in
>>of a number of postings recently re: home intruders, bothersome
>>pets ... is simply astounding. The anger and hatred in our society
>>is out of control.
> 
> ^
> |
> |
> Here's a man who has probably never been burglarized
> or mugged.
> 
> Some of us are just tired of the assholes winning
> all the time.

Anyone know how I can persuade the rats that keep invading my
home to move to the first poster's home ;-{).
-- 
"Land of song, said the warrior bard,           Jim Heath
Though all the world betrays thee.
One sword, at least, thy rights shall guard, (The Minstrel Boy)
One faithful harp will praise thee."         (Thomas Moore)
From: mcbride@rust.zso.dec.com (Melinda McBride)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Address of IKEA
Date: 14 Aug 92 20:26:41 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation - DECwest Engineering

In article <MACRAKIS.92Aug12115623@next4.osf.org> macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis) writes:
>
....
> Note that IKEA cabinets do NOT have legs (adjustable or
>otherwise), so if your floor is not level, you will either need to
>build some sort of level base or shim them.  

My partner and I live in Seattle, but we shop at the IKEA in Richmond,
B.C., which is about a three-hour drive away.

We put an IKEA kitchen in our condo about two years ago, and the
cabinets were as the above poster describes, but we didn't have too much
trouble leveling them.  The kitchen was a great selling point when we
sold the condo.  Now we are building a house and putting an IKEA kitchen
(and bathrooms) in it.  They have a new kitchen system, introduced in
Canada in July, that does have adjustable legs.  It also has some other
improvements in the design.  It has been available in Europe for a
while, I guess.  I don't know if it is available at the U.S. stores yet.

We worked with the same kitchen planner for both kitchens and she has
been very helpful about making sure the parts we need are available.  We
are going up this weekend to pick it up.

Mac
From: vln@icpsr.umich.edu (Victoria Neff)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Flourescent bulbs in standard fixtures
Date: 21 Aug 92 19:58:39 GMT
Organization: Inter-University Consortium for Political and Social Research

In article <1992Aug21.181416.29030@maths.tcd.ie> tim@maths.tcd.ie (Timothy Murphy) writes:

>
>Seriouly, are there any doubts about their safety?
>(I assume the concern was with UV radiation.)
>
>Why can't they just put up with it, like a man ...
>

Men have never minded turning into little greeen frogs, after all.....
From: erickson@taurus.cs.nps.navy.mil (David Erickson)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Telephone Outlets
Date: 19 Aug 92 23:13:33 GMT
Reply-To: erickson@cs.nps.navy.mil (David Erickson)
Organization: Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey CA

In article <DuFqPB1w161w@cdthq.UUCP> gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston) writes:

>> In article 21159@col.hp.com, tvervaek@col.hp.com (Tom Vervaeke) writes:
 
>> >We have a cordless phone but do not use it too much. Many of the neighbors
>> >do have scanner, etc.. and I live privacy. 
 
>It doesn't take expensive equipment; it's possible to monitor virtually
>all home comm appliances (cordless phones, cellular phones, baby monitors,
>intercoms, etc.) for about $200 spent at Radio Shack. 

Are all cordless phones easy to monitor?  I thought they had built in
scrambling circuitry, which is set according to a small bank of
dip switches.   We bought a Sony cordless recently, and we were told
that it has built-in scrambling.  Are you saying that the scrambling
is easy to defeat with the $200 in equipment, or do your comments apply
to cordless phones which do not have scrambling built in?

Dave Erickson
From: n9020351@henson.cc.wwu.edu (James Douglas Del-Vecchio)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Killing burglars.
Date: 20 Aug 92 17:55:42 GMT
Article-I.D.: henson.1992Aug20.175542.17057
Organization: Western Washington University


Oh, I forgot.  You better have a CB if you want to rely on those
police to save you, because a good home invader will cut the phone
lines before he comes in.
From: maw2@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (MICHELE A. WHITE)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Blacktop Problem -- HELP!
Date: 13 Aug 92 16:47:22 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University


After moving into our house a month ago, we decided that the due to the curve
of the driveway, it would be best to widen it.  The builder only had the
initial blacktop put in (the course stone).  We didn't drive on it for a few
days and it has settled quite nicely.

We had the same contractor come back to widen the driveway.  He did it one
week ago.  Two days ago, (five days after completion), we had a bad storm.
When I got home, I noticed that in several sections of the new area of
blacktop had risen.  It was like air or water was underneath it.  And about a
one foot section of where the old and new meet had raised, causing a rough
surface along the edge.

The contractor came back out the following night.  Said he'd never seen
anything like it before.  He said between the heat softening the blacktop and
then the rain could get under it from the soil (no grass yet) or soak in from
the course material that was used, that maybe that combination did it.

He stamped it out and recommended that putting the top coat (the finer
blacktop) should solve our problem.  BTW, he said he brought stone in to put
under the blacktop, but we weren't there to see it.  When you stand on the new
section now, certain areas have alot of give and seem real squishy.

Questions:
Is this common?
Will putting the top coat on cause more problems?
What should I insist that he do to correct the problem?

Thanks.

-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------
Michele White - (215)758-3995
User Consultant
Lehigh University Computing Center
maw2@ns.cc.lehigh.edu
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Splitting a circuit
Reply-To: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 92 17:07:03 GMT

In article <MACRAKIS.92Aug13110712@next4.osf.org> macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis) writes:

>How many light bulbs are on the circuit?  Fluorescent certainly take
>less power -- more like 15 watts to replace a 60 watt incandescent,
>not 45 as Patter says (typo?)

Not a typo. I've found that it usually takes one of the fixtures with
two 20 watt bulbs or a 45 watt circline to replace a ceiling fixture
and provide an equivalent amount of light.

Also - Remember that the previous owner had 100 watt incandescents in
there, so we're really trying to do better than 60 watt bulbs if we can.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | I pity the man who don't drink, 'cause when he
George Patterson -  | gets up in the morning, that's as good as he's
                    | going to feel the whole day.
                    |                             Joe E. Brown
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis)
Subject: Re: Dryers: gas vs. electric
Organization: OSF Research Institute
Date: 14 Aug 92 12:29:44

In article <16eugdINN81g@darkstar.UCSC.EDU> larrabee@cse.ucsc.edu (Tracy Larrabee) writes:

   ...a gas dryer puts out about 1/4 of the "greenhouse gasses"
   ...than an electric dryer does....I don't know why this is so...

Here's why: most electricity is generated by burning coal.  The
overall efficiency of burning coal to make steam to drive turbines to
generate electricity to heat air resistively is probably around 1/3.
Coal has a higher proportion of carbon than does gas, and so generates
more CO2 per BTU than gas.  Thus a figure of 1/4.  (I don't know the
exact figures, but this seems plausible.)

Of course, electricity from nuclear, hydroelectric, or solar
generators doesn't count.

	-s
From: tim@maths.tcd.ie (Timothy Murphy)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Flourescent bulbs in standard fixtures
Date: 21 Aug 92 18:14:16 GMT
Organization: Dept. of Maths, Trinity College, Dublin, Ireland.

LVDUANE@SCIVAX.LERC.NASA.GOV (Duane Beach) writes:

>I started this thread, so now I'll let you know how it came out.

That was really interesting.
I wonder if you'd have an address for Lights of America?
We only have rather bad flourescents over here.
Or at least, that's what my wife and daughter say.
As far as I am concerned, a light is a light is a light ...

But my daughter has read somewhere that
if she does her homework under these lights,
she will turn into a green frog.

Seriouly, are there any doubts about their safety?
(I assume the concern was with UV radiation.)

Why can't they just put up with it, like a man ...

-- 
Timothy Murphy  
e-mail: tim@maths.tcd.ie
tel: +353-1-2842366
s-mail: School of Mathematics, Trinity College, Dublin 2, Ireland
From: sns@bondi.jpl.nasa.gov (Sam Southard)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Another brick patio question
Date: 13 Aug 92 15:26:12 GMT
Organization: SAR Systems Development & Processing, JPL

The recent question someone had about the brick block patio reminded me of a
question I've been meaning to ask.  I would like to add a brick patio in my
back yard.  There would be no problem, except that there is a large tree in the
area I would like to brick.

I plan to make a wall around the base of the tree and put a planter around the
tree, but I'm not sure how far from the tree the wall should be.  I know not to
change the ground level of the tree, so this planter would probably either be a
place to put pots of flowers or I'd construct a planter box which was supported
off the ground.

I also know that for a brick patio you need to first compact the soil.  Is this
going to harm the tree's roots?  If so, what are my alternatives?

Won't I also need to remove about 6 inches of soil from the places where I want
the patio (to allow space for the bed of sand, the brick, etc. - I want the
patio basically at the existing ground level)?  How will this affect the tree?

Finally, I want to make this a mortared patio, which I assume does not let
water through (or at least not a significant amount).  How will the tree get
its water if a large area of the roots are covered by the patio?
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: wayne@ultra.com (Wayne Hathaway)
Subject: ADVICE NEEDED: Shake roof maintenance
Summary: Sweep myself or call professional?
Reply-To: wayne@ultra.com (Wayne Hathaway)
Organization: Ultra Network Technologies
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 92 19:05:15 GMT

I have recently acquired a three-story house with a shake roof
underneath pine trees.  A very nice place, but the roof is COVERED
with pine needles (not to mention the gutters).

Is it feasible to consider sweeping it and cleaning the gutters
myself?  If so, can anybody offer advice on what to do for a safety
harness?  What kind of broom/brush to use?  What's the best way to
walk on shingles without busting them loose?  Anything else (other
than to buy more life insurance)?

By the way, there's no way to reach even a fraction of the gutters
with any kind of ladder; it'll all have to be done from the roof.

Thanks much for any and all advice!

    Wayne Hathaway               domain: wayne@Ultra.COM
    Ultra Network Technologies     uucp: ...!ames!ultra!wayne
    101 Daggett Drive             phone: 408-922-0100 x132
    San Jose, CA 95134              FAX: 408-433-9287
From: amalik@bubba.ma30.bull.com (Alka Malik Sobti)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Making an Offer for a Home with a LIEN, Title Insurance
Date: 18 Aug 92 17:59:07 GMT
Reply-To: amalik@bubba.ma30.bull.com
Distribution: misc
Organization: Bull HN, Worldwide Information Systems, Billerica, Mass., USA


I had posted this earlier but did not see any responses on the net and
did not get any responses mailed to me.  I am re-posting it.

	We are thinking of making an offer to a house.  But, we found out 
        from the seller's lawyer that there is a lien attached to the home.
	There is no realtor or broker involved (at the moment only the seller,
	buyer, and the seller's lawyer are involved.  The buyer(us)
	does not have a real-estate lawyer).	

	Since I had never heard of liens, I would like to get some advice as 
	to 
		- should we not make an offer in a situation like this 
		  OR
		- if we do consider making an offer, then what should one
		  look out for and are there any special procedures in the
		  making/writing an offer, getting a real-estate lawyer, 
		  home-insurance etc. in order to get a clear title.  
		  What is covered in the title insurance?
	
		  And let's say that if the offer goes through and we buy 
		  the house with a clear title, then can something come up 
		  later on regarding the lien on the house (due to the
		  seller).  Or any other complications, etc. 

	I would like to get any suggestions/advice at the earliest.  I would
	prefer if you e-mail the responses to me directly since I hardly 
        read news.  Also, if I should be posting this message to some
	other newsgroup please let me know. 

	My e-mail address is:
		amalik@bubba.ma30.bull.com

	Thank you.

							- Alka
From: kls4344@ritvax.isc.rit.edu (Person in flux)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Advice needed on ovens and ranges
Date: 20 Aug 92 15:10:10 GMT
Reply-To: kls4344@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology

In article <1992Aug19.201815.2360@terminator.cc.umich.edu>, 
vln@icpsr.umich.edu (Victoria Neff) writes:
>In article <1992Aug19.151836.19820@starbase.trincoll.edu> 
nmiller@starbase.trincoll.edu (norman miller) writes:

>>We're about to install a new kitchen and are faced with
>>a number of decisions about wall ovens, to wit:
>>
>>Brand names (even model numbers if available) are also
>>earnestly solicited.
>>>
>Do not, repeat DO NOT, buy a range from Sears. 

I bought a Tappan self-cleaning gas cooktop/oven 3 years ago and have been
quite happy with it.  It's fairly easy to adjust and clean, and it lights up
just fine.  Three other Tappan owners I know have been happy with theirs also. 
Tappan is a GE product, as is Hotpoint, and isn't terribly expensive.

Katie
From: ssnyder@sunai.er.usgs.gov (Steve Snyder)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Cleaning stains on Formica
Date: 12 Aug 92 17:08:11 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: U.S. Geological Survey, Reston VA

Got a number of responses on how to clean grape juice stains on 
Formica, so I thought I'd post the responses. BTW, the alcohol
worked great.

Here Goes:
From rl@optics.sbi.com Wed Jul 29 13:45:52 1992

> Does anyone know how to remove stains (grape juice, I think) from
> Formica? I've gotten it almost all out, but you can still see a  
> stain though.

Try denatured alcohol.  Or try a spray product called Counter Magic
which you can get at any hardware/DIY store

=========================================================================
From bailey@butyng.bu.edu Wed Jul 29 14:22:39 1992


I have had good luck with BonAmi clenser and (if necessary) a little
household bleach.  (My counters are almond.)  

=========================================================================
From carolp@techbook.techbook.com Wed Jul 29 14:27:18 1992

I use tooth paste for my first stain attack.

If that doesn't work, I follow it up with "Remove It"

=========================================================================
From chris@jupiter.fnbc.com Thu Jul 30 09:26:24 1992

A little Soft scrub and bleach.  No soft scrub if you have a  
high-gloss finish.  Try on a hidden area first.

=========================================================================
From eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com Thu Jul 30 12:21:55 1992

You can try rubbing with a paste of baking powder and water, but it *is* an
abrasive, so watch for making a buffed area.

Also, I've found that sometimes those stains seem to go away by themselves
after a couple of weeks -- maybe it's the repeated washings.

=========================================================================
From ellen@bostech.com Tue Aug  4 15:27:13 1992


 Have you tried Tilex?


=========================================================================
From lvs@cbnewsf.att.com Tue Aug 11 14:59:30 1992


Try using the cleanser SoftScrub with bleach. I always use it on my WilsonArt
(similar to Formica) countertops. It doesn't scratch & gets rid of stains
like coffee & wine instantly!
From: snorthc@nswc.navy.mil (Stephen Northcutt)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: refinishing a bathtub
Date: 14 Aug 92 14:52:32 GMT
Organization: NAVAL SURFACE WARFARE CENTER

I live in a 45 yr old house.  The white porcelin has been abrasive
scrubbed off over the generations.  I want to refinish the tub vis
replacing.

What is a source for synthetic porcelain or whatever is is that
they use to do this?  Is this a DIY kind of thing?

Would alklyd enamel work for this?

Tips, pitfalls. amd references appreciated! 
===================================================================
From: tanner@bcsaic.boeing.com (Jim Tanner)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Home owners Insurance -- Farmers versus Allstate
Date: 19 Aug 92 04:26:05 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Boeing Computer Services AI Center, Seattle

In article <1992Aug17.192626.12785@adobe.com> bennett@adobe.com writes:
>Gary Palangian writes
>> You can purchase a $1 million liability umbrella policy for around
>> $120/year.  In my opinion, you've got to be a little tetched if you
>> can justify not buying such policies....
>
>Yes, but before you can get the umbrella policy you've got to have your regular  
>policies limits maxed out. You can't have a $50,000 policy and add the $1  
>million umbrella for $120 - you've first got to increase your regular policy's  
>coverage to its limit (usually to $500,000), which is quite expensive to do.

Not true.  Yes, the umbrella policy requires a certain minimum level of
underlying insurance, but at least in my case (State Farm) it is *far*
from the maximum.  In my case it requires an underlying auto coverage
of 25/100/300, which is the *minimum* I would carry anyway.  The umbrella
then takes the coverage up to $1M (or however much you want to buy).
From: irened@sequent.com (Irene Dale)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Marble in shower
Date: 13 Aug 92 21:33:07 GMT
Article-I.D.: sequent.1992Aug13.213307.16667
Distribution: usa
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems

We have to redo the tiled shower in an upstairs bathroom.
My husband has suggested using marble on the walls.
If you use 12inch squares, the cost shouldn't be too prohibitive.
It seems that I've heard marble gets water stains.  Anyone
out there have marble in their shower or have any ideas
about why it is a good or bad idea?
From: richg@hatch.socal.com (Rich Greenberg)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Shooting, Poisoning, Cruelty
Date: 17 Aug 92 03:06:25 GMT
Organization: Hatch Usenet and E-mail.  Playa del Rey, CA

In article <CARL.92Aug16162956@atlantis.Cayman.COM> carl@Cayman.COM (Carl Heinzl) writes:

>Hmmm, reminds me of an old saying...
>
>"A liberal is just a conservative who hasn't been mugged yet"

The way I heard that one was reversed:

"A conservative is a liberal who has just been mugged."

-- 
                
Rich Greenberg - N6LRT - 310-649-0238 - richg@hatch.socal.com