HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: strollo@ssd.kodak.com (Larry Strollo)
Subject: Re: drafting table plans, and an idea...
Organization: Eastman Kodak
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 92 18:22:26 GMT


In article <63=1NB!L1@linac.fnal.gov> billq@pogo.fnal.gov writes:
>AAAaaaarrrrrgggggghhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!
>

Bill;

Thanks for the reply.  When I saw you're opening line I was afraid the next
one would be "Not another FAQ about drafting tables..."  |8-}.

Thanks for the phone numbers, dimensions and ASCII drawings - they'll be 
useful.

>
>
>After sitting carefully typing in detailed plans for the contruction of
>my 1943 Hamilton drafting table (which i picked up used for $25!!! :-),

Every day I become more convinced that I will keep my eye out for a used table
while I design one. 

>
>Is there in existence a BBS or ftp site (or enough interest in one) for
>archiving construction plans?  I realize that there would have to be an
>agreement concerning non-comercial use of the plans, but it sure would
>be nice to be able to up or down load construction drawings.  I'm in the
>process of setting up a BBS, and just might do this.  If this does happen,
>what would be the preferred format of the drawings?  PostScript?  GIF?
>It sure would beat explainations and ascii drawings!
>

I agree it would be a great resource (especially for me right now), and I 
would probably use it.  But I foresee a few problems.  First, ASCII drawings 
allow us (barely) enough detail to convey general ideas.  The fact that they
are coarse can be a blessing since it's pretty forgiving - even though we all 
start off our ASCII drawings with a dig on ASCII drawings!  If we moved to a 
more exact method, would we all have the energy to create the level of detail 
that some of us may end up expecting ?

A second potential problem may be getting these drawings into GIF/PostScript
format.  As you already know, I'm going to draw my projects, even though I
have access to several drawing and cad packages.  Maybe I'm the exception to 
rec.woodworking readers, but I just enjoy drawing with a pencil & paper, and 
I also seem to think and visualize better at the drawing table than the CRT.  
I don't have ready access to a scanner, and even if I did, I often draw on 
odd size sheets of paper.

One final point is, do we have that much more to add to what's already
available in back issues of FWW, Woodsmith, <your favorite here> ?

I hope it dosn't look like I'm dumping on your idea, especially since you 
answered my request (I'd be a real ingrate wouldn't I ?)   I'm interested in 
the other reactions you get - I actually hope they're different than mine !

>
>According to "Al B.", K&E, Diezgen, and Post are a shadow of what they were.
>This darn computer industry has nearly put them out of business.
>

While I am eking out a living making them dance, I often think what a mixed 
blessing they (computers) are.

LMS


-- 
===============================================================================
Larry Strollo                                             strollo@ssd.kodak.com
Eastman Kodak Co. Rochester, NY 14653-9005                       (716) 253-9822
===============================================================================
From: games@max.u.washington.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: An UnGrizzly Tale, and too tall stuff
Date: 12 Aug 92 20:49:17 GMT

In article <1992Aug12.144825.12034@watson.ibm.com>, rhoover@watson.ibm.com (Roger Hoover) writes:
> An UnGrizzly Tale

...

> 
> What about used machines?  I found a beautiful 36"
> machine.  The motor must have weighed in at 250lbs.  It
> had a machined cast iron table, all 32"x36" free of rust,
> that probably was another 400lbs.  Add another half ton
> for the rest of the beast.  Beyond transportation and a
> painful move into my basement, only one problem remained.
> It was 92" high--the basement has 82" of clearance.  Try
> as hard as I might, I was unable to convince Kathy that a
> monster bandsaw would be the perfect touch for our living
> room.  A neighbor observed that the arrival of said
> bandsaw would result in the exit of said wife.
> 

Several possible solutions come to mind for this.  I had exactly the
same problem with a 2 part drill press. (the base was separate from the wall
mounted articulated head).  

I notice that there is only a 10" discrepancy between the unit, and the 
ceiling.  Will it not fit between the joists? (Typically 12" tall, and 16"
on center?)  In any case, that wouldnt do for me due to the fact that
the head moved (side to side), so, I rented a concrete saw ($20 per day
+ $4 for blade wear), and cut a 3'x3' hole in the concrete, then a big sledge,
and a shovel, and I dug a 1 1/2' hole, (actually 4" deeper than I needed.
Then with 8 $2 bags of premixed concrete, I poured a slab.  Then after it
dried, I framed the edges, and another 3-4 bags, and voila, a new lower home
for the base.

Of course, the bit of gravel under it was all of about $5, and it means that 
the unit does NOT move around the shop, but this unit was without question
10 times better for 4 times less cost than anything else I had seen.

It was worth the work to make it fit.  (And, the wife even helped pour
the concrete, and smooth it.)

If this used bandsaw was really a good deal, I'm not so sure that you should
have passed it up in favor of a new one. 

Hope this doesn't make you feel too bad about what you DID buy.  I am sure that
it will give you many years of faithfull service.

			John.
From: davei@comp.lancs.ac.uk (Mr D Ingles)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Piano's / Harpsichord's
Date: 18 Aug 92 08:26:05 GMT
Organization: Department of Computing at Lancaster University, UK.

Has anyone ever seen woodworking plans for Piano's / Harpsichords ? I
once met a guy who used to build Harpsicords as a hobby and then he used
to sell them, thus financing his workshop.  My interest is that sometime
in the near future, I would like to construct the main body of a 'baby'
grand piano but I don't know the dimensions or the best form of
construction. 

Davei (davei@lancaster.ac.uk)
From: jp@hpuerca.atl.hp.com (John Pierce)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 12:19:55 GMT
Subject: Re: Water based top coats, paste fillers.
Organization: the Atlanta Technology Center
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

				Note
	This is somewhat long, so you may want to skip if you
	disdain poly.  Consider this to be a log of someone exploring
	new territory that others have covered before.  Comments and
	corrections welcome.

I recently tried out Hydrocote Polyurethane on my new (oak) stair treads.
I used it over Minwax oil-based stain, since the hydrocote directions
said it could be used over oil-based stain.  I might have been paranoid,
but I let the stain sit for several days to make sure there was no oil
contamination before putting on the Hydrocote.

I think it turned out OK.  I used a foam brush, which worked well.
Between coats, I kept the brush in a genuine Kroger Kosher Dill Pickle
Jar to keep it from drying out.  Cleanup was FAR easier than solvent-
based urethane (OK, I suppose water is technically a solvent, but you
know what I mean).

I thinned the first coat with ~25% water, per instructions.  This did
raise some grain:  when that first coat dried, the wood was fuzzy and I
was NOT amused.  I sanded with 150 grit to cut off the raised grain
and dust nibs and it smoothed right out (after the first coat, I used 220).
I suppose that since it was thinned, it soaked in far enough that some
was left after sanding off the raised whiskers.

Bubbles were a problem, especially with the first coat.  I kept gently
working it back and forth and worked out the bubbles.  Since the first
coat seemed to soak in, the bubbles pretty much worked themselves out.
On later coats, I had to take care of the bubbles myself, since the wood
was sealed.

By the time I got to the finish coat, I refined the bubble-reduction
technique to my satisfaction.  Here are the points I noticed (I'm sure
others can add to and correct this list):

	- Load the brush heavily on the END.

	- DON'T squeeze out excess from the brush.  This makes bubbles.

	- GENTLY lay down the finish.  If you push too hard, it will bubble.

	- Once you completely cover the surface, work the brush back and
	  forth very gently, with the grain, at a very low angle (with
	  the brush almost flat).  This will gently force out bubbles
	  and drag them to the edge of the surface.

	- Work the bubbles toward an edge or a corner.  From there, lift
	  them off with the dry part of the brush.

This was satin-finish poly and I did not want a glassy-smooth finish on
the stairs.  We don't want any "WHOOPS...bumpbumpbumpbump..." in our house.

I used the same poly on a luan veneered door.  After three coats, it
came out with a nice tough satin sheen.  There was still some grain
texture which another coat or two could have smoothed out, but I liked
it the way it was.  I think too much poly looks tacky.

The BEST part was the fast drying time.  I could do several coats on a
Saturday, even with sanding between coats!  After solvent-based urethane,
that was a welcome change.  For this reason alone, I think I would stay
with the water based stuff.

This stuff is not as stinky as solvent-based poly, but you still need
good ventilation or you'll get a headache.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: edging for plywood
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 92 18:49:31 GMT

In article <1992Aug18.163259.29020@ncrcae.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM> dmoyer@ccscola.Columbia.NCR.COM (Dan Moyer) writes:
>In article <Aug.15.15.43.17.1992.5318@pilot.njin.net> ron@pilot.njin.net (Ron Natalie) writes:
>>> I haven't been pleased with my results in placing wood edges around
>>> plywood.  

>Adding my $.02...   I've used regular veneer and a hot melt glue product
>from a fabric store.

I also use regular veneer, but I use contact cement to attach it. This
also works well with thicker pieces of wood, such as might be used to
edge a countertop.

One thing. I've found that I get the best results if I make a few very
light passes with a plane on the plywood edge. Frequently the inner plys
stick out a little further after being cut than the finish layers (probably
because of the cross-grain direction), and this takes care of it.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | Society calls everything difficult good
                    | and makes everything good difficult.
                    |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: crown moulding
Date: 12 Aug 92 17:42:05 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

In article <WOODWORK%92081114272598@IPFWVM.BITNET> 
	UNCDWC@UNCVM1.BITNET (Doug Cutler) writes:
>
>    I though the origion of Crown Moulding was to cover gaps between wall
>and ceiling to keep the drafts out in the days before sheet rock etc.

A good job of plastering will leave no gaps.  They are a mark of modern,
quick-n-dirty rocking (good rocking will allow the taping of all corner
seams, though it does rely on good framing as well).

>As with things such as wood panelled walls the more affluent you were
>the more ornate the woodwork was!! 

According to David Owen ("The Walls Around Us"), in the past, the more
affluent had more PLASTER on their walls, and moulding (waincoting, etc.)
was there solely to protect the precious plaster from damage by chairs,
tables, boots, etc.  The really, REALLY affluent had ornate plaster work
on their walls and ceiling. 

In this vein, I think a previous poster was on target when they said
that crown moulding was originally used to hang pictures (or most any
artwork for that matter) from, as it would be unthinkable to put a
nail into your precious plaster walls!  If you look at pictures of
old English or colonial home interiors (or the real things for that
matter), you will see paintings hung by very long, typically decorated,
cords attached at the crown moulding.

Dave
-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
The heart and the mind on a parallel course, never the two shall meet.
						-E. Saliers
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bill@quercus.gsfc.nasa.gov (Bill Kovalick)
Subject: Red Oak beams
Summary: Need red oak beams for post and beam work
Keywords: beams, red oak, post and beam
Organization: NASA/GSFC code 923
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 17:39:14 GMT

A bud-bud-buddy of mine has a bud-bud-buddy that would like to
locate some red oak beams for post and beam construction. This
person lives in Vermont and has already worked with Hemlock
beams - now he wants to try something harder and stronger with
a little more character - you know, like oak. Anyway, has
anyone ever dealt with or heard of a mill in the eastern US
that sells red oak beams ? Any idea what the cost per board
foot would be ? 

Bill Kovalick                 bill@quercus.gsfc.nasa.gov
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: cpr4k@holmes.acc.Virginia.EDU (Christian P. Roberts)
Subject: Re: Emperor Clock Kits - any experiences?
Reply-To: cpr4k@holmes.acc.Virginia.EDU (Christian P. Roberts)
Organization: Academic Computing Center - U.Va.
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 21:56:49 GMT

In article <1992Aug18.201513.4262@comp.lancs.ac.uk>,
davei@comp.lancs.ac.uk (Mr D Ingles) writes:
|> In article <1992Aug18.122306.10795@walter.cray.com> jeffz@cray.com
(Jeff Zais) writes:
|> >I'm getting serious about purchasing a grandfather clock kit from
the 
|> >Emperor Clock Company catalog.  Does anyone out there have any 
|> >experience with these kits (or other clock kits from other makers)?
|> 
|> I am interested in such kits etc as well. Does anyone know of any
good 
|> catalogues for this type of hobby ?
|> 

    Consider Henschel's as another option.  Many years ago I looked
into several, and the quality of the wood, etc. seemed better to me
with this company.  I don't have the address handy, but will post 
it tomorrow.

--

Chris Roberts                     Academic Computing Center
cpr4k@virginia.edu                University of Virginia           
(804) 982-4693                    Charlottesville, Virginia 22903
From: tonyo@pendragon.CNA.TEK.COM (Tony Ozrelic)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: A Grizzly Tale: Mr. Grizzly Returns
Date: 17 Aug 92 19:55:52 GMT
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Redmond,  OR.

In article <133380@lll-winken.LLNL.GOV> gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot) writes:
> (contents of Grizzly Letter deleted)

>Sincerely,
>
>/s/
>
>S. Balolia
>President
>
>P.S.  Not to spoil your day since you have already bought a bandsaw, but
>based on customer comments, magazine articles and our own desire to
>be the best, we have designed what will be the best 16" bandsaw on the
>market.  No more details shall be available until our 1993 catalog
>comes out.


That's good, since the 16" bandsaw I bought from them had to be returned.

The upper saw guide was between 1/4" and 3/8" offset from the lower guide.

I returned the saw (at my expense) and got my money back.

tony "weekend woodbutcher" o.
From: dwford@nv6 (Don Ford)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: A fire safety reminder
Date: 13 Aug 92 17:39:06 GMT
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4

hollen@megatek.UUCP (Dion Hollenbeck) writes:
: My method for treating properly is to spend about $15 for a used
: military ammo can, 8"x24"x18", and put all my rags in there until I
: have enough of a batch to fill a washer load.  Since the can is
: airtight, any spontaneous combustion would soon be extinguished from
: lack of oxygen, and even with the presence of oxygen, the can is all
: steel (except for the rubber seal) and would not transmit any flames
: to the outside environment.
: -- 
: Dion Hollenbeck       UUCP: {uunet, ucsd, sun}!megatek!hollen
:                       INTERNET:            hollen@megatek.com
: Megatek Corporation  9645 Scranton Rd.  San Diego, Ca.  92121

I heard an interesting story from a friend about flammables in the
washer.  It seems he got tar all over his coveralls.  His wife, knowing
that gasoline is a good solvent for tar soaked them in a bucket of gas.
She then threw them into the washer.  The hot water vaporised the
gasoline and then some little relay said "click".  The resulting
explosion blew the machine apart!  Time for a new washing machine!
Fortunately no one was hurt and no other damage was done.
--

Don Ford
U S WEST NewVector Group, Inc.                  (206) 450-8585
From: tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Face Vise Questions
Date: 18 Aug 92 21:10:21 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: University of Arizona UNIX Users Group


Bennett,

	We seem to be on similar wavelengths...

	I'm not sure I've ruled out the Roubo design.  I've used wedges, hold
fasts, and such for a few years now,  in my Demonstration Project at the 
Living History Center of the Arizona Renn Fest...    I've come to appreciate 
how fast and rapid these things can be.   (I also know that bad hold fasts
are worthless... I never could get the woodcraft holdfasts to hold, and then
they finally borke (cast iron!)).   So I am trying to incorporate a lot of
points for hold fasts in my plans.  This could involve the top, a front apron,
and a few holes on the legs.

	However, I am sure that there is a lot to be said for good vises.

	I have decided against the Tage Frid/Frank Klaus shoulder vise.
Too big, in the way, some clamping problems, etc...  I am a bit more of
a generalist than these gentleman are,  and so I think I want soemthing
else.

	I currently have a big Record, and it's a nice vice.  But it ain't
100% what I want either.   Hard to clmap vertical boards (the shoulder vises
BIG win).   And I am not 100% pleased with the esthetics.  The Emmert seems 
to be a nice idea,  but I cannot convince myself of the need to spnd $500
on a vise, much less consider how to convince my long suffering wife :)


	What I have been thinking about is a PAIR of leg vices...    one
mounted on the left leg of the bench, and the other free to slide where
the shaker bench has the sliding bench slave.   I would use the leg vice
most of the time for simple clamping,  but if I had a wide board (say
10" to 24" or whatever) I could slide the second vise over and clamp 
both edges.

	One thing I like about the leg vise is that I can make them myself,
without any $100 hardware from Garrett Wade...   Can make it all wood too.

	What problems do you forsee?

				Tom
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Original_To:  BITNET%"woodwork@ipfwvm"
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 17 Aug 1992 10:56:00 CDT
From:         JM01@SWTEXAS.BITNET
Subject:      kitchen & bathroom cabinets

I've got oak cabinets throughout my house, oak window sills, and some other
oak moulding.  The clear finish on some of the cabinets has worn off, as has the
finish on some of the window sills, and I'd like to refinish them--the current
finish is quite thin and easily flaked off.  They're apparently pretty cheap,
high-production-type wood cabinets.  Regardless, I want to refinish them so they
match other cabinets and window sills nearby.  In other words, I don't want to
refinish every board in the house.  Is the finish on these type of kitchen and
bathroom cabinets some standard type?  Is it just a laquer or varnish?  Is there
a way to determine what the old finish is, so that I can match it?  The house is
only about 5 years old--is there going to be any problem with darkening of the
finish on the boards that I don't want to refinish?  Thanks for any help.

Joe Meyer
From: smb@ulysses.att.com (Steven Bellovin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Exposed wiring and the NEC.
Date: 15 Aug 92 14:12:47 GMT

In article <1992Aug14.222736.28498@philabs.philips.com>, mja@philabs.philips.com (Michael Amato) writes:
> 	Romex is a brand name for a type of plastic insulated wire.
> 	Sometimes called non-metallic sheath.  The formal name is NM
> 	(NEC) or NMD90 (CEC).  This is suitable for use in dry,
> 	protected areas (ie: inside stud walls, on the sides of joists
> 	etc.), that are not subject to mechanical damage or excessive
> 	heat.  Most newer homes are wired almost exclusively with NM/NMD90.
> 	
> 	Where the wire is subject to damage (ie: closer than 1 1/4" of
> 	the face of the stud, on the surface of walls below 5 feet, on
>                               ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
> 
> Could someone tell me where to find this in the code?

The NEC doesn't say anything explicit about surface-mounted NM below
five feet.  What it does say is that it must be protected from physical
damage.  That's a subjective matter; the 5-foot rule is our guidance.
(More precisely, it's Chris's, but Canadian rules are stricter on
when NM cable can be used.)  Given that it is subjective, it's up
to the local inspector to make the determination.

Personally, when I wired my garage -- which I use as a woodshop -- I
used BX.  I figure that the shop is an area where random pieces of
wood or metal might be propelled at high speeds...
From: games@max.u.washington.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Router table
Date: 13 Aug 92 18:58:06 GMT

In article <1122@ceylon.gte.com>, boykin@gte.com (Joseph Boykin) writes:
> I'm looking for a good quality router table.  Most of the ones I've
> seen are little table-top versions made of plastic.  I've seen one from
> Porter-cable which is on a stand and made of metal but it is relatively
> small (from memory: 16 x 18").  I'm looking for something about 2' deep
> by 3' wide.  Very solid, on a stand, and with a good fence.
> 
> I know I can build one, but with the limited amount of time I have
> to work in my shop, I would rather produce toys/gifts/whatever
> rather than something for the shop itself.
> 
> jb

Eagle has a router table with a milled aluminum fence that appears from the
brochure to be a cut above.  I haven't seen it in person, but it is on par with
a lot of other router tables in terms of cost.  (I think it was $199)

Sorry, I can't remember eagle americas 800 phone number.  But it is an 800
number, so 1-800-555-1212 ought to get it for you.

			John.
From: brown@venus.iucf.indiana.edu (Robert J. Brown)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Water based top coats, paste fillers.
Date: 19 Aug 92 15:47:43 GMT
Reply-To: brown@venus.iucf.indiana.edu
Distribution: na
Organization: IUCF
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.3-4

>Rich writes: 
>I used Deft Safe and Easy Gloss polyurethane on some oak stair treads
>recently.  I used a Deft water-based stain after sanding to 320 grit.  I was
>not impressed.  After five coats, with very light sanding between the 1'st
>three, the gloss level was nothing like what I'm used to from regular
>Varathane, and I had a hell of a time with bubbles, despite trying a number
>of different techniques for application.  I used a foam brush.
> 
>I don't know if this is a Deft problem or not.  If someone has different
>impressions of the Varathane Diamond product, I'd appreciate hearing them.
> 
>	-- Rich
> 
  I haven't used the Deft product but have had great results with Carver-
Tripp "Super Poly" water based polyurethane. I also use a foam brush and
the bubbles seem to disappear with the milky color. I recently finished some
red oak with 3 coats of the satin finish, lightly sanding with 320 paper 
between coats and I am thouroughly satisfied with the results!

  If you want a REALLY GLOSSY finish, may I suggest plastic instead of wood?
:-) :-)

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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking