HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: thomass@lamont.ldgo.columbia.edu (thomas stocker)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Mystic Color Lab
Date: 31 Dec 92 17:12:00 GMT
Organization: Lamont-Doherty Geological Observatory, Columbia University, New
	York
Originator: thomass@ko.ldgo.columbia.edu


Hi,

I had a bad experience with that lab. My Kodak Gold-100
color prints were developed with no care and color adjustment
at all. It seemed that they run 1000s of rolls with 1
setting irrespective of the topic (sea, snow, landscapes,
flash, etc) of the individual roll.

I prefer to pay a little more and bring it to a
proper lab.

Thomas Stocker
Lamont-Dohery Geological Observatory
Palisades, NY 10964
thomass@lamont.ldgo.columbia.edu
--
-------------------------------------------------
Thomas Stocker
Lamont-Doherty Geological Observatory
Palisades, NY 10964
phone: (914) 365-8705
fax:   (914) 365-3183
email: thomass@lamont.ldgo.columbia.edu
-------------------------------------------------
-- 
-------------------------------------------------
Thomas Stocker
Lamont-Doherty Geological Observatory
Palisades, NY 10964
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: GeraldR@sunfish.ratsys.com (Gerald Ruderman)
Subject: Re: Kodachrome & Processing by Kodak?
Organization: Rational Systems, Inc.
Distribution: rec
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1992 21:24:58 GMT

In article <1992Dec22.153442.11814@src.honeywell.com> smangan@src.honeywell.com (Stefanos Manganaris) writes:

>Hi -- I've read in several articles about people having their Kodachrome
>processed by Kodak labs (not, Kodalux, Qualex, etc.).  In my inquiries,
>Kodak says they don't do any processing on their own any more, and they
>point to Kodalux instead.  What's the deal here?

>Could someone please post how I can have Kodachrome processed by Kodak (if
>at all possible)?

Do Kodak labs still exist outside of US? Are there any in Canada?

Gerald Ruderman                                   geraldr@ratsys.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: yz3k@galen.med.virginia.edu
Subject: Re: Canon 10s Vs Nikon N90, Which one?
Organization: University of Virginia
Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1993 18:10:58 GMT

In article <PD.92Dec30015509@horus.sics.se> pd@sics.se (Per Danielsson) writes:
> In article <BzznvG.72D@ra.nrl.navy.mil> tse@ra.nrl.navy.mil (Anthony Tse)  
writes:
> 
> >   Any Canon users that claim they prefer non-compatible lens mount is
> >lying.  I would be a much happier person if I can use my FD lens on an
> >EOS or vice-versa.
> 
> Well, I'm a Canon (EOS) user, and I don't have any FD lenses, so I
> really don't care. (It would be nice if I could use my old OM lenses,
> though... :-)
Some body out there must make some adaptor for the OM lens. I've seen adaptors  
for Nikon, Pentax and few others. 
--YZ
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: Constucting Small Darkrooms
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1992 09:32:01 GMT

jbg@qualcom.qualcomm.com (Jeff Gehlhaar) writes:
: I need recommendations on how to construct a very small, easily collapsed
: darkroom. I have a fairly sizable bathroom, and all of the trays, enlarger
: etc that I need. What I don't have is a table or rinse area that I can place
: the trays on. Does anybody manufacture small, collapsable tables for this
: purpose. Also, I'm told nothing like this exists, but it would be handy
: to have a florescent tube shaped safe-light.

I gave up on using trays - long ago. They take up too much space. I do
all my printing in tubes, even B&W.

Using RC paper, the wash time is only a few minutes.

You could build such a safe-light. I question why - however. The less
light in the darkroom, the better.

If you do not remove the enlarger from the bathroom, and still use the
bathroom for baths/showers, make sure to protect the enlarger from the
moisture. 

My darkroom is actually totally dry - I do the processing in the
bathroom - where there is running water. No problem at all, using
tubes - although there is a little more walking involved.

Bill
From: v462etnn@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (David L Anderson)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: 30"x40" enlargements..
Date: 22 Dec 92 19:01:00 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <1992Dec22.012607.3845@crd.ge.com>, kassover@rumsey.crd.ge.com (David Kassover) writes...
>>>Hi, this size of enlargement from a 8'x10' negative..? No 
>>
>No, you don't understand, your trailer *is* the camera.  With
>some suitable cleverness, and perhaps some influence with the
>DOT, you can have a full range of swings and tilts and such.
>Interchangeable backs and bag bellows might be a problem.  Then
>again, if you look through the Yellow Pages, you might find a
>tentmaker or two...
>Somewhat seriously, I heard of some museum or other converting a
>room in a gallery into a true camera obscura, using a pinhole in
>the wall and 8x10 foot Polaroid material...
> 
>I believe this was mostly an academic exercise.  Certainly, if
>one is into Funtian photography, this setup is somewhat
>unflexible...
> 

This technique was done at a local small art gallery here in Buffalo a couple
of years ago.  I don't recall the specific technique, but the photographer
was Swiss, I believe.  He had lots of people line up on one sid of the room
and had the paper on the other side.  The end final result was a positive
black and white that was apparently developed using chemicals that
were washed on with sponges.  I've not been able to get any details
(such as how they got the positive image -- maybe it was something
similar to those slide kits for t-max).  It appears to be ordinary
printing paper (well, it was rather large paper, though).  My mother
has two torn off sections showing her and my father (life size, I
might add - so this was approx. 1:1).

>David Kassover             "Proper technique helps protect you against
>uupsi!khazad!kassover	          sharp weapons and dull judges."
>kassover@aule-tek.com                   F. Collins
>kassover@ra.crd.ge.com

David Anderson
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: garyf@jpl-devvax.jpl.nasa.gov (Gary Friedman)
Subject: Re: ProfiSECRETs or "It is energy that is the main"
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory (NASA)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 08:21:27 GMT


Personal note to Valery V.Cray , photographer & director "PARALLAX CENTER".

*** USENET NOTE: I tried a personal reply, but the mail bounced.
Sorry for the extra bandwidth. ***

Valery,

Your posting on ProfiSECRETs was very interesting!  In addition to
thanking you for sharing your experience, I also have a few
questions...

I've seen your postings before; I remember the one you requested
leased photo processing equipment.  Here you mentioned "putting an end
to social photography..."  What did your business do before you
converted to studio modeling work?  It sounds like you have a large
collection of photos of life in Soviet-ruled Ukraine.

>Quite often I take several photographic cameras - among them one uncharget -
>and begin to click and "bring in" a model: 

I don't completely understand the above.  Do you mean you
shoot without film in the camera until the model feels comfortable?  I
often expect not to get good shots for at least the first 5 or 10
rolls of film, but since film is relativly inexpensive I warm up while
shooting film.

>    It is from U-Shu that I took the idea of vital centre. All time I talk to
>girls that their smile , arm movement and everything else begins with abdomen.

I have never hear of this before, but it sounds interesting.  Should the 
models think about their movements as all coming from the abdomen for a 
more commanding posture?

Also, I find it very difficult to both make the model feel at ease and
concentrate on composition at the same time.  I often bring an
assistant who stands behind me and can bring out a natural smile in
the model.  (Now you know why I'm not a fashion photographer!!)

>    Three parts the creative work consist of are as follows: intellect, sense
>and sex. All other is nonsense.(The formulation  of English artists Gilbert and
>George is used. See exhibition catalogue of 1990.) 

Again, I'd like to learn more.  Which exhibition catalogue shall I
consult?

Thanks for the information!  (And by the way, there's a pretty large 
Ukrainian community here in Los Angeles....)



						-Gary Friedman

----------------------------------------------------------------
Gary Friedman                   Jet Propulsion Laboratory - NASA
4800 Oak Grove Drive, Pasadena, CA.  91109        (818) 306-6193
garyf@puente.JPL.NASA.GOV || {cit-vax,elroy,psivax}!devvax!garyf 


>Valery V.Cray , photographer & director "PARALLAX CENTER".
>UKRAINE, 310100 Kharkov
>P.O.Box 2864 .
>Phone 0572 984-333.
-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------
Gary Friedman                   Jet Propulsion Laboratory - NASA
4800 Oak Grove Drive, Pasadena, CA.  91109        (818) 306-6193
garyf@puente.JPL.NASA.GOV || {cit-vax,elroy,psivax}!devvax!garyf 
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: Matthew D. Kirkwood <mdkirkwood@mmm.com>
Subject: Re: What will it really take to replace FILM!
X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1.1d16
Organization: 3M Digital Imaging Applications Center
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 92 00:56:11 GMT
X-XXDate: Wed, 23 Dec 92 00:52:25 GMT

Howdy all, this is my first post, I hope it works out.

In article <2332@sousa.tay.dec.com> Stephen R Faust,
faust@asds.enet.dec.com writes:
>So, what do  you feel is technically required to obtain this, and how
far off
>do you think it is.    Is 150MB enough to get a high quailty image
capable of
>35mm quality (I think is not, but dont know for sure).  Can we have CCD
units

Based on the assumption that a _good_ color film has a resolution of less
than 150 lines/mm (this assumption should be very good), the resolution
of a 35mm frame is:
	36mm*150 lines/mm = 5400 lines
	24mm*150 lines/mm = 3600 lines
i.e.  5400 x 3600 pixels on a 35mm slide.   Therefore, a digital camera
should have a minimum of that resolution to beat a really good film.
	5400*3600*3 bytes/pixel = 55.6 MBytes
for a 24bit image.

So, a 55 MByte image should be as good as almost any film.

Producing hardcopies of the image are another matter.  The eye cannot
resolve much more than 300 DPI (I don't have the exact value handy).  So
a continuous tone printer at 300 DPI is as good as a person can detect. 
An 8x10 image at 300DPI and 24 bits/pixel takes up about 24 MBytes.

Matthew Kirkwood
mdkirkwood@mmm.com
3M Digital Imaging Applications Center
"Anything I say is the opinion of me only, not my employer."
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au
Subject: Re: Scheimpflug and depth-of-field
Organization: Curtin University of Technology
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 20:33:48 GMT

In article <1hnd05INNkg5@fnnews.fnal.gov>, nicinski@fndaud.fnal.gov (Tom Nicinski) writes:
> How is depth-of-field (DOF) calculated when applying the Scheimpflug Rule?  All
> the books and articles I've found hand-wave around this issue by drawing one very
> general graph.
> 

The DOF calculations are the same, but most of the hand waves fail...

> When the film plane and lens plane are parallel, the DOF can be calculated quite
> simply, as the near and far DOF points are parallel to the film/lens planes.  As
> most lenses are near flat field, the DOF boundaries will also be planar.
> 

IFF the lens is truely flat field, the DOF boundaries will be planar.
This blows away the assumptions, as the DOF will extend to infinity for both
near and far limits in simple models.

> But, when using a view camera where the film and lens planes are not parallel,
> how are the near and far DOF computed?  The best I've figured out (and seems to
> match what I see in practice) is measure from the lens (front nodal point) to a
> point on the plane of focus and compute DOF along that "line of sight."  Then,
> pick out another line of sight along the plane of focus.  These computations
> result in a hyperbolic shape for the DOF limits.  How correct is this method?

Yep, Use the full DOF formula for the axis of interest. You need to use the
distance from the principle points, not from the film plane. Don't know if it's
a hypobolic surface, but it will be a conic section.

~Paul

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: andpph@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Subject: Re: Is 24mm or 28mm lens better?
Reply-To: andpph@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 03:31:29 GMT

In article <1992Dec27.150447.22261@dec8.ncku.edu.tw>, s6801221@mail.ncku.edu.tw writes:
>    I am planning to buy a wide angle lense. But I don't know whether 
>    a 24m lense or 28mm lense will be better. 
>    Can someone give me some suggestions?

If you will only have one wide angle maybe the 28 is your best choice... not
too wide but noticeably wider than the normal 50 mm lens. On the other hand, if
you already have or will have a 35mm lens then definitely go to the 24... IMHO.

cheerio,
andy
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: appy@churchill.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM (Pratul.Sharma)
Subject: Fungus on lens
Keywords: fungus
Organization: NCR Corp., Columbia SC
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 92 14:55:21 GMT

Hi folks,

I have a Pentax ME-super SLR and a 35-105 Tokina Zoom. Both of them are out of
warranty. The zoom has developed fungus on a few elements. I showed it to a few 
shops here and the are asking about $75 - $80 to clean it. Now I find that the
camera's view finder is also developing fungus.

secondly, my camera's winding mech. mal-functions once in a while.
After taking a snap, I wind to get the next frame, but the camera does'nt let
me use that frame and I have to wind again. (after winding once the winding 
lever doesn't get locked, and the film can be wound again and again without 
taking any snaps) This is wasting a lot of frames. 

Can some one guide me to a place where I can get them repaired, or guide me to
do it myself. Also how do I avoid fungus killing other lenses.

your help will be greatly appreciated,

Thanks in advance

Pratul

________________________________________________________________________
Pratul Sharma 
E-Mail: appy@churchill.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM 
------------------------------------------------------------------------




-- 
________________________________________________________________________
Pratul Sharma 
E-Mail: appy@churchill.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM 
------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: nicinski@fndaud.fnal.gov (Tom Nicinski)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Scheimpflug and depth-of-field
Keywords: Scheimpflug depth-of-field
Date: 28 Dec 92 17:20:05 GMT
Organization: Fermi National Accelerator Laboratory, Batavia IL
NNTP-Posting-Host: fndaud.fnal.gov

How is depth-of-field (DOF) calculated when applying the Scheimpflug Rule?  All
the books and articles I've found hand-wave around this issue by drawing one very
general graph.

When the film plane and lens plane are parallel, the DOF can be calculated quite
simply, as the near and far DOF points are parallel to the film/lens planes.  As
most lenses are near flat field, the DOF boundaries will also be planar.

But, when using a view camera where the film and lens planes are not parallel,
how are the near and far DOF computed?  The best I've figured out (and seems to
match what I see in practice) is measure from the lens (front nodal point) to a
point on the plane of focus and compute DOF along that "line of sight."  Then,
pick out another line of sight along the plane of focus.  These computations
result in a hyperbolic shape for the DOF limits.  How correct is this method?
From: tse@ra.nrl.navy.mil (Anthony Tse)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: A photographer's story
Date: 29 Dec 92 21:39:53 GMT
Organization: Naval Research Lab, Washington, DC

In article <1992Dec29.203017.7755@pmafire.inel.gov> geoff@pmafire.inel.gov (Geoff Allen) writes:
>You are obviously a large-format photographer.

   No, I am a large-format-shooter-wannabe.  I saw this used Toyo 4x5
with a lens for $500 once, came really close, then came to my senses.
Can't afford the 4x5 enlarger.

>Thanks for the chuckle.

   It was the weekend after Christmas, all my friends are out of town,
so why not.

-Anthony
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jchen@wind.bellcore.com (Jason Chen)
Subject: Re: Which lenses report focusing distance electronically?
Reply-To: jchen@bellcore.com (Jason Chen)
Organization: Bellcore, Morristown, NJ
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 92 20:59:50 GMT

In article <TJWU.92Dec28153541@carbonara.mit.edu> tjwu@athena.mit.edu (Thomas J Wu) writes:
>Are Nikon's D-series lenses the only AF lenses that report focus distance
>to the camera body?  Do any Canon, Minolta, or third-party lenses do this?

Huh? If not how does TTL flash work?

Jason Chen
From: allana@hpmwtd.sr.hp.com (Allan Armstrong)
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 16:40:14 GMT
Subject: Re: Velvia Reciprocity Info?
Organization: HP Santa Rosa Site (SRSD MWTD)
Newsgroups: rec.photo

Thanks to everyone for all the information about Velvia.

In a few days I should have a roll of slides back in which exposures
were from 4 to 50 seconds. For each composition, I made three exposures,
one at 50 ASA, one at 37.5, and one at 25. When I get the slides back,
I'll be able to judge what is best. I also think Velvia is slower than
advertised, so judgement will play a part in picking the favorite
slides.

Allan
From: Harald.Brandt@eua.ericsson.se (Harald Brandt)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Canon 10s Vs Nikon N90, Which one?
Date: 29 Dec 92 12:29:48 GMT
Organization: Ellemtel Utvecklings AB, Sweden

In article <BzzBo5.3r9@ra.nrl.navy.mil> tse@ra.nrl.navy.mil (Anthony Tse) 
writes:
> Now what I want to know is, is it really a 24-35L or is it a 20-35L or
> are there actually 2 different lens?

I see I made a little typing error.  I bought the EF 20-35/2.8L. It's a 
real precious toy! Very little distortion, despite it's wide angle zoom 
range, so I hope it will be excellent also for architectural oriented 
shots as well as other types. Tests claim 0.5% distortion at 35mm!!  Since 
the choice of wide angle focal length is extremely critical to the 
resulting picture, I hope that a zoom in that range will allow me to 
create precisely the type of impact I like to. 

> PS When are you getting the 85L to complete you lens inventory :)

No, I am not buying that, I am not so fond of 85mm, more so of 105mm, but 
while we are dreaming, I list the toys I have been looking at: 24mm/L TS 
or/and 45 mm TS, 100/2.0 USM, 100/2.8 Macro, 50mm/2.5 macro, Extender X2.  
And I am actually planning to buy the extension ring EF25 (the store in UK 
(York Cameras) could not get hold of it, nor could they get the lens hood 
to the 28-105).  If there were a 35-105/2.8 I would consider buying that, 
but the current 28-105 has the nice feature of being very small and light, 
so it is perahps the perfect lens when I do not want to carry to much.  
Concerning the TiltShift lenses, they do unfortunately not have AF, which 
means they cannot serve as a combination of special lens and general 
shooting lens. They seem to be made exclusively for prof architectural 
people, but their usage could be much greater than that - if only the 
price was a few times less!

/Harald


Phone: +46 8 727 39 55  Fax: +46 8 749 05 94
Ellemtel Utvecklings AB
Box 1505
S-125 25 Alvsjo
Sweden
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: fjcppr@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Subject: Re: IBM programs for manipulating photgraphs
Reply-To: fjcppr@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1992 15:27:19 GMT

The most versatile program for IBM/Windows photo manipulation is
Aldus PhotoStyler. It costs about $500. Adobe is planning to introduce
Photoshop sometime in early 1993. I use Corel Photo-paint, which is 
a repackaged version of Z-Soft's program. It comes with the Corel 
Package, and it is quite a good program. You will need a very fast
computer to run any of these (486 33mhz or above).
From: lakhindr@ESD.3Com.COM (Lakhinder Walia)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: 8008s/801s Questions
Date: 26 Dec 92 18:19:40 GMT

acs@csri.toronto.edu (Alvin Chia-Hua Shih) writes:

>In <lakhindr.725242988@bowmore.NSD.3Com.COM> lakhindr@ESD.3Com.COM (Lakhinder Walia) writes:

>>phr@telebit.com (Paul Rubin) writes:

>>>The 8008 doesn't have any nonvolatile memory.  If you left the
>>>batteries out long enough for any internal capacitors to discharge
>>>then put them back, that should have totally reset the camera.
>>>If it still came up wedged, the batteries may have leaked some
>>>crap onto the camera electronics and you need a serious repair :-(

>>>When I do any important shooting, I take an FM2 along with my 8008.
>>>That way, if one of them breaks, I still have the FM2...

>>well my 8008s did not come with any batteries, when I bought it new.
>>I am sure it sat in the shop for a while, without any iota of current.
>>It works fine..! But what is this total-reset ..?

>Cameras of today, with all their program modes and electronic frame
>counters, etc., must retain state information between uses.  The Nikon
>maintains this information in RAM, and keeps it (briefly) between
>battery changes because of stored charge.  If the RAM is allowed to
>fade, then the camera must choose an "initial state".  The choosing and
>selecting of that initial state is the "total reset" (of state).
-------------------------------------------------------------------
So what vital info is lost in this case without which a photographer would
be hampered to use his/her equipment..?
Also I could not understand why would somebody need any "serious repair" --
unless those (replacement) batteries have something non-standard..!
-lakhinder 
-------------------------------------------------------------------

>There is also a "panic sequence" that returns the N8008 to a "standard"
>program mode.  I think it's activated by holding down the front and back
>wedges of the pie cluster for 1s.  See your manual for details.
>>Thanks
>>-Lakhinder Walia

>ACS
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: robert@sys.sweden.dg.com (Robert Claeson)
Subject: Re: Mail Order; Camridge; AAA; Better Business Bureau
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 09:52:02 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Data General AB, Akalla, Sweden

In article <Bzn79s.90K@watserv1.uwaterloo.ca>, tjdoran@watserv1.uwaterloo.ca (TJ Doran) writes:

> Regarding mail order camera operations, one I saw recently in a magazine
> advertised Minolta (Dynax) bodies.
> 
> Anybody know what the '(Dynax)' part means?

Dynax is the non-U.S. equivialence for the U.S. Maxxum name. The Dynax
name is used elsewhere, including Asia and Europe.

-- 
--------------------- This mass of gibberish came from ---------------------
         ____
        |    |               Robert Claeson
        |    |               Data General AB
 _______|____|_              Box 28
|    |    _    |_____        S-164 93 KISTA
|_/\ |   / \   |     |       Sweden
| \/ |   \_/   |   . |
|    |    |    |_____|       robert@sys.sweden.dg.com
|____|_________|-
From: barryg@hplsla.hp.com (Barry Gunn)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Olympus Stylus Recommendations
Date: 24 Dec 92 15:25:39 GMT
Organization: HP Lake Stevens, WA

>/ hplsla:rec.photo / jromao@bragg.bio.purdue.edu /  3:55 pm  Dec 17, 1992 /
>Yes. BUY it! I also have a Konica Big Mini and a Nikon F4. The Stylus might
>be the best P&S around.
>----------
>
>
 Not!

   | _
   |[o] Barry Gunn x2281
    /|\ barryg@lsid.hp.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo