HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jfb2@po.CWRU.Edu (John F. Bauer III)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Replace rear springs on '78 Econoline 100 with 250/350?
Date: 3 Sep 92 17:13:18 GMT
Article-I.D.: usenet.185h3eINN9gl
Reply-To: jfb2@po.CWRU.Edu (John F. Bauer III)
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc12.ins.cwru.edu



	The springs on the back of my '78 Econoline 100 Ford van are pretty
much shot.  One is broken, the other is really sagging.  I am looking to replacethe springs as cheaply as possible (ie. local junk yard).  Yet, I don't want
to get another set off a 100 if I can help it, they are not ready made to carry
much weight.  I was wondering if anyone knew if I could look for springs from
an Econoline 2500 or 3500 that would replace the ones I have?  Also, anyone knowhow many Ford spring sets are the same from year to year (ie. will the springs
from an '84 E350 fit my '78 E100)?

	Any info would be appreciated!

John


-- 
John F. Bauer III			216-937-6117
IntelliSystems		     Custom Computer Systems
3816 Jaycox Rd.                        & Programming
Avon, OH  44011        ---===)))>>> JFB2@PO.CWRU.EDU
From: paulw@hpspdla.spd.HP.COM (Paul Welch)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: aftermarket cams and headers
Date: 28 Aug 92 14:33:02 GMT
Organization: HP Palo Alto Fabrication Center

I re-built a Chevy 283 for my '63 Nova, and used a "mild street cam", 
headers, etc., that were intended to improve performance.  Although I
live in California, I didn't ever have to smog this car since it was
so old.  However, I recently sold it, and the buyers condition was that
I have the car smog checked.  After adding an automatic choke and 
a breather-type oil cap, I took it down to the local smog-check 
facility.  The mechanic hooked everything up, started the test, then
promptly turned to me and gave me a dirty look, like my car just
ruined his smog-checker!  Actually, it just pegged the needles on his
gages.  Of course I assumed the worst (the car will have to be buried
in some land-fill facility that accepts hazardous waste), but after
playing around with the idle mixture and the timing, he was able to 
get the car to pass.  Unfortunately, the performance dropped about 
50%, but it did pass.

With a newer vehicle, things might be better (such as the cat.
converter, etc.).  I doubt that a simple change to headers would 
affect the hydrocarbon output much, but they are one of the cheaper
ways to buy a little horsepower.  Without a test facility it may
be difficult to assess which modifications actually increase polutants.

Good luck-

PW
From: ggg@hpsad.sad.hp.com (Gary Goodlund)
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 20:29:17 GMT
Subject: Re: Timing Belt revisited
Organization: HP Signal Analysis Division - Rohnert Park, CA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

I'm not sure what you mean by "freewheeling" so I'll leave that alone but
my Dodge Daytona has a single overhead cam 2.2 liter with a belt-driven 
camshaft.  The manual says to replace it at 50Kmiles (mine started shedding
teeth at about 65Kmiles).  It also lost power and sounded pretty pathetic
since it had drifted so far out of time.

With the range of compression measurements you have, it sounds like it's
time for a valve-job.  If you squirt 30wt oil into the spark-plug hole and
re-run the compression test the measurement won't change appriciably if
the problem is leaky valves/seats.  If the measurement goes up, the problem
is most likely to be worn piston rings and the oil is temporarily helping
them to seal against the pressure.

My engine has flat-topped pistons so when the valve timing slipped the 
valves didn't hit the pistons.  If your engine has dome-topped pistons,
this could get much more expensive.

I hope this helps you...

Good Luck,
  Gary
From: jgraham@bronze.ucs.indiana.edu (the End)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: 87 Charger Omini/Horizon looses pickup when warm
Date: 28 Aug 92 18:43:27 GMT
Organization: Indiana University

Does anyone else have a problem like this with their (1985-+) Doge
Charger or Omin/Horizon ? My car runs great while cold, but then when
it reaches normal operating temperature, it begins to lag during an 
acceleration (intermittently). If I turn it off, and let it sit a few 
minutes, and then start it, the problem is greatly reduced, but still 
there when I really accelerate hard.

These models have a wacky "variable electronic choke" I think, which
was apparently discontinued for good reason. Would anyone care to
comment on this modern miracle ?

Thanks,

E-mail me:

Jim
jgraham@sunflower.bio.indiana.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: fagundes@iastate.edu (Alex Fagundes)
Subject: Cleaning spark plugs??
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames IA
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1992 18:59:12 GMT

Hi,
  Is there a way to clean spark plugs??  My plugs are getting some crap
all over then about every 3 months;  this is probably because my car
is also leaking a LOT of oil :(
 Thanks.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
|  Alex Fagundes -         Proud owner of a 76 Maverick :) and another      | 
|  fagundes@iastate.edu  -          believer that AMIGA rules               | 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dak@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu (David Kardelis- I am the NRA)
Subject: Re: Converting to electronic ignition
Reply-To: dak@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu
Organization: High Energy Physics, University of Illinois, Urbana-Champaign
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 19:00:56 GMT

In article <BtoK9E.Lwy@resmel.bhp.com.au>, yang@resmel.bhp.com.au (Sam Yang) writes:
>
>Two brands are available: One from Robert Bosch Australia Pty Ltd, 
>A$258 + 20% Tax, and another one from Piranha Electronic Ignition,
>A$239. Does anyone has any experience with these two brands? There is
>also another one for all 4-cylinder engines selling for A$229 (from
>Allisson ?). 
>
>Thank you in advance
>
>Sam
	There is a another option in the JC Whitney catalog. It uses a
infrared diode and pickup for the point and rotor. There are slots
in the cap, the width of the gap sets dwell angle. These run about
$70 and you specify the engine, dwell etc. 
	Anyone know if this system in any good. I am contemplating 
getting this for a 73 Jeep.  Points are just to much of a pain to deal 
with.
				dave
==========================================================================
   David Kardelis		| I am the NRA-NRA Life
   Gradual Student in Physics   |
   Univ. of Ilinois		|	Looking for a new .SIG
   dak@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu	|
   217-333-0505			|
Not necessarily the views of the ISSC or the UI At UC
==========================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hacker@cco.caltech.edu (Jonathan Bruce Hacker)
Subject: Re: Timing Belt revisited
Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 05:34:42 GMT

jsw@umiacs.umd.edu (Jeff Webber) writes:

>(1985 Toyota Corolla GTS, DOHC 16v 1.6l  same engine as 80's MR2's)

>Last week my timing belt apparantly broke on my above car.
>Since someone posted that all toyotas made after a certain year
>had freewheeling engines I decided to do the repair myself.

>I think the timing belt broke as a result of some other engine
>failure.

>When timing belts break do they normally break by splitting somewhere
>or do they lose a bunch of teeth in one area?  I ask as my belt had
>its teeth torn off by the crankshaft.  I believe that something 
>caused the belt to stop moving (something caused a camshaft to stop
>turning).   And thus the teeth were stripped off.  The belt didn't
>look bad otherwise.

When the timing belt on my dohc supra broke, all the teeth contacting
the crank pulley were stripped off.  Since this pulley is the
smallest, it is where the most "stress-per-tooth" occurs.  It is much
less likely that the belt would actually break since it consists of
many thin wires bound together inside the rubber which makes it very
strong logitudinally.  Put your used belt around a car jack and see
how much force it can take (wear some protection if you do try this).

>I replaced the belt and lined everything up according to the service
>manual but the engine does not run (well it barely runs but I don't
>count the horrible noises its making as running).

A lot of 4 valve per cylinder heads are not free-wheeling.  I'm not
sure if yours falls in this category though.




-- 
Jon Hacker
Caltech, Pasadena CA
hacker@tumbler-ridge.caltech.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dan@willie.NoSubdomain.NoDomain (Daniel Dickson)
Subject: GM Air Conditioners
Keywords: Rebuild
Organization: Intergraph Corp. Huntsville, AL
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 13:57:23 GMT


The R4 Compressor started singing a rather loud obtrustive tone that
would actually make the inside of the car resonate. I figured that one
of the internal bearings had gone bad, so I replaced the compressor. When
I removed the front casing off of the unit, I found no visible damage.

Now this type of compressor has four pistons and a single crankshaft. What
I want to know is how do you disassemble the blasted thing. There is only
one entry into the unit, from the front. I have a feeling that the crankshaft
itself must separate into two parts, but I am unable to determine how to do
it.

Any KNOWLEDGEABLE people in this newsgroup who have attempted such repairs
and been successful, please tell me how to take this blasted thing apart!

Thanks
Dan
From: lockwood@acidqueen.Eng.Sun.COM (Jim Lockwood)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: spark plug nightmare & warning.....
Date: 2 Sep 92 16:54:02 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Mt. View, Ca.
NNTP-Posting-Host: 129.146.12.28

In article <1992Sep1.215131.16391@ingr.ingr.com> jjolly@jjolly.b24b.ingr.com (Jack G. Jolly) writes:
>I have a '72 350 vette which has about 25K miles on heads which were
>completely rebuilt (new guides) and it smokes upon start.
>
>I've been told that even with new guides, some type of "valve stem
>sealant device" is required.  I'm now considering two different types
>of devices - the plastic "umbrella" seal and a "teflon ring" seal.
>

My BS alarm went off when I read this.  

My intuition tells me that if the engine didn't smoke at startup when 
the heads were brand new, then it ought to be possible to intall new 
guides that duplicate the factory clearances and that yield the same 
non-smoking start-up behavior.

My anecdotal proof can be found in my own garage.  I, too, have a Plastic
Pig.  Mine has had bronze valve guides installed and it runs new valves.
The mechanic who did the work deliberately set the clearance at the
low side of the Chevy recommended limits...i.e.  they are moderately
tight.

The engine now has about 18K miles on it and never, never, never 
smokes at startup or any other time.

I suspect that if you will suffer the agony of pulling the heads and
having new guides installed and clearanced to match whatever wear there
is on your valves, then you will have no more problems.


>A local machine shop says they have a teflon seal which will "interference
>fit" over the valve guide and not require head machining (i.e. - job can
>be done on the car).  Someone else told me "those teflon deals wipe away too
>much oil, and your valves will go away".

My belief (for which I have no proof, anecdotal or otherwise) is that 
unless you know for sure that whatever seal you install permits as much
oil to reach the guides as the factory engineered clearances would 
provide, you are probably better off without them.  Conversely, if you
have engineering data that shows that, yep, the valve guide lubrication
is equivalent to that provided on factory new heads with correct clearances,
then it's OK to use them. 

>
>Opinions

I've got a million of 'em....

And they are all worth what you paid to read them.


Regards,

Jim Lockwood - KM6NK
lockwood@acidqueen.eng.sun.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang)
Subject: Re: Can oxygen gauge meter fuel pressure?
Organization: Brandeis University
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 15:29:54 GMT

In article <31160133@hpspkla.spk.hp.com> borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski) writes:
>Well, I know that my question is not (directly) related autos, but it is
>only one step away.
>
>I have a high pressure oxygen gauge.  I would like to make a jig for
>testing the breakover pressure of diesel fuel injectors on my diesel
>Rabbit.  The gauge goes to 4000 psi., and the breakover pressure of
>the injectors is to be set to 2400 psi., so everything is fine there.
>
>The question is:  Is there any problem using an oxygen gauge to measure
>the pressure of diesel fuel?  Also, on the face of the gauge is  the
>statement, "Use no oil."  Does this refer to the gears, pivots, etc.
>inside the gauge, that you should not oil it?  Or does it mean that you 
>should not use the gauge to meter the pressure of oil (due to material
>limitations).
>
>
>Donald Borowski    WA6OMI    Hewlett-Packard, Spokane Division
>"Angels are able to fly because they take themselves so lightly."
>                                       -G.K. Chesterton
>

"Use No Oil" means that when you are dealing with hi pressure oxygen,
any little thing like  a tiny bit of oil seepage can cause an
explosion.  Oxygen is HIGHLY reactive and more so under pressure.
Technically you might be able to use the gauge for diesel fuel, but I
would mark the gauge clearly in case it happens to wander out of your
hands back into use on an oxygen tank.

/andy
From: tmcdonal@ringer.cs.utsa.edu (Tom McDonald)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Taps for removing studs... Anyone have luck with these?
Date: 28 Aug 92 23:16:44 GMT
Organization: University of Texas at San Antonio

In article <BtoFAn.AtI@undergrad.math.waterloo.edu> ljkong@undergrad.math.
waterloo.edu (Lennard J. Kong) writes:
>  You can try drilling a hole in the stud then using a left handed tap, to 
>screw into it then keep on turning to eventually bring it out. The hardest part 
>is probably being able to drill the hole, I recommend first using a very small
>bit to make an indentation so that the larger bit will not move around. Yhe above method is proabably the best but requires a lot. Good luck.
>
I've broken off bolts before and have tried using these taps, but not once have
I gotten one out with them.  (Out of about 5)  I typically end up with a broken
piece of titanium in the stud, which I then have no chance of drilling out.  
I've pretty much decided that I'll never use one again, however, I was
wondering if anyone has any first hand luck with these (not just that they're
theoretically supposed to work.)
						-Tom
-- 
Okay, one more time.  This is your brain. (egg)
This is your brain on drugs. (egg in frying pan)
Any Questions?
"Yeah, can I have mine scrambled?"
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hamilton@eng.umd.edu (Andrew W. Hamilton)
Subject:  Starter only works when cold
Date: Wed, 02 Sep 92 16:52:55 GMT
Organization: College of Engineering, University of Maryland, College Park
Originator: hamilton@analog.eng.umd.edu


My car will start fine if it has been sitting for a while, but very often if
I have been out driving and stop the car it will not restart for 15 minutes or
so (I've spent a lot of time waiting at the pump at gas stations before the car
decides that it wants to start again).  When this problem arises, I turn the key
and absolutely nothing happens except that the ammeter shows a draw of about 30
amps until you release the key.  The engine does not turn over or even budge at all.
Wait 15 minutes or so and turn the key and everything starts up like a charm.

Anyone evry run into this before?  I think I may have the only car in the world
that starts fine when cold, but refuses to start when warm.

Thanks in advance,

Andrew.

P.S.  The car is not _overheating_ at all.  This is not a radiator problem.
Engine temp never goes above 150 F at the most.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: robrick@erenj.com (Robert Brickman)
Subject: Re: Handbrakes /discbrakes
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Organization: Exxon Research and Engineering, New Jersey
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 21:34:10 GMT

In article <9209031818.AA03075@wotke.vicor.com>, danapple@vicor.com wrote:
> 
> 
> > eur@dutncp2.tn.tudelft.nl (Eur van Andel) writes:
> > Dear netters
> > 
> > After spending some time under my two Alfa's (with inboard rear discs)
> > I wondered how the general solution is for braking with the handbrake
> > on rear discs.
> 
> > How is it done? How do you move the slave cylinder mechanically?
> 
On my old Lotus Elan ('66), the rear brakes had a small set of mechanical
calipers for the hand/parking brake, in addition to the regular hydralic
ones. I think they were made by Girling. Never had the opportunity to see
if they could actually stop the car from any real speed (fortunately).

Bob Brickman
robrick@erenj.com
  - The opinions expressed here are my own and in no way reflect the
opinions,
policies or practices of my employer.
From: pwu@oreo.ai.mit.edu (Peng Wu)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Pressurize Oil Before Starting ?
Date: 26 Aug 92 13:55:20 GMT
Article-I.D.: life.27223
In-reply-to: brownr@hydra.rtp.dg.com's message of 25 Aug 92 13:17:21 GMT


    In article <15200039@hpspdla.spd.HP.COM> brownr@hydra.rtp.dg.com (Tall Randy
    Brown) writes:
    In article <15200039@spd.HP.COM> paulw@hpspdla.spd.HP.COM (Paul Welch) writes:
    >
    >I have seen (many moons ago) information on a company that provides
    >"before you start it" oil pumps.  Basically, you add an aux. oil
    >pump that runs off the battery, and you pressurize your lubrication
    >system before turning the key to start the engine.  I have also 
    >read that on a typical 500 mile trip, 98% of the engine wear occurs
    >in the first ten seconds.
    
    Richard (I know you're out there), how about adding this to the FAQ?
    
    They are call 'pre-oilers' or 'pre-lubers', you can buy them from Summit
    Racing, among other places, they have a model from LRI for $560, 1 yr
    warranty.  Summit's phone is 216-798-9440.  The system runs your oil
    pressure up to 55 psi if you desire, and then you start the car.  Hocus-
    pocus, you have reduced your engine wear by 90-95% (first ten seconds
    after startup).  So, add one to your engine and it should last 1-2 million
    miles (if the average engine lasts 100K miles today).
    
    I have never heard of anyone using one of these, or any magazine reviewing
    one of these to determine the improvement in engine life.

Pre-oilers may not reduce all the startup engine wear.  The oil film that goes
between axles and bearings are created by rotation, not by the oil pump.  It
takes a few moments to build the film even if the oil is pre-pressured.  If
the engine is not left sitting for long, there is always some oil in the
bearings at start up and that may be sufficient for the few senconds when the
oil pressure is building up.  In any case, 55psi is not sufficient to "float"
axles in the bearings, which may take hundreds if not thousands psi at certain
spots.  Therefore, pre-pressure helps but not much in most cases.  I think
additives like slick50 may be more effective.  Is there any mechanics major
out there?
From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Car batteries for sale and info on electric cars
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1992 22:08:42 -0500

 JD> He replaces the batteries about every 4k miles, because his range is 
 JD> reduced
 JD> by a factor or 2. If anyone wants a motor and controller, he is selling 
 JD> them
 JD> for $40k each. Prices will go down as production ramps up. No solution 
 JD> is in
 JD> sight for making high performance batteries cheaper and longer lasting.

How much do the batteries cost?
From: benj@cbnewsb.cb.att.com (ben.e.jones)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: chev htr fan
Date: 28 Aug 92 17:46:40 GMT
Article-I.D.: cbfsb.1992Aug28.174640.13978
Organization: AT&T


     have a 1977 chevwith heater fan problems....fan won't run....
same problem from a month or so ago...haven't been able to get at it
due to reassignment at work.

have looke dta assy and how do i remove the knob ends from the heater
control levers.......no set screws used....are these a press fit type?

where u have to try to pull them off the ends of the control levers??
or i should say try to work them off.....with out the knob end being
removed u won't be able to pull the panel face plate off to be able to
get at the fan switch......last info i rec'd told me fan switch
is a good source of the troubleand min cost to replace, if u can get
off the panel i guess.
I plan to jump the power lead to the switch to each of the fan motor
leads once i can get in there..
Many thanks for any info 
Ben
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mollett@lexmark.com (Vic Mollett)
Subject: Diesel "algae"
X-Disclaimer: These views are the poster's and not necessarily those of Lexmark
Organization: Lexmark International; Lexington KY
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 02 Sep 1992 12:51:31 GMT

I was recently told that algae of some sort can grow in fuel tank of a diesel
car or truck.  This seems most strange to me since there is virtually no light
that reaches the tank and I would think that diesel would kill just about any-
thing.  My diesel automobile has a translucent fuel filter/strainer that gets
black very quickly after changing and I was told that this was the "algae."
Does anyone (especially a petroleum engineer) have any ideas about this??  The
person that told me this was reputable, but I'm having a hard time believing
(to be honest, I had previously assumed that the black was small particles of
the fuel line that had been "eaten" by the diesel).

-- 
                                             /\    Vic Mollett
 These opinions are my own and do not       /  \   Lexmark International, Inc.
 necessarily reflect those of my employer.  \  /   mollett@lexmark.com
                                             \/
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: '85 Subaru GL - replacing water pump gasket easy?
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 25 Aug 92 15:51:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * Jacksonville AR USA * 501-985-0059


->      "Naah. I never saw a water pump driven by the timing belt."

> Maybe not, but my wife's '84 Buick Skyhawk (1.8L 4) has a water pump

 Can you say "Vega?"  One of Chevrolet's more dain-bramaged innovations
on the Vega was to drive the water pump with the timing belt.  Then,
since the pulley was already there, they decided to use the water pump
as an adjustor for the belt.  So they slotted the holes on the pump.  To
adjust the belt, you removed the water pump, installed a new gasket,
slid it into position, tightened the bolts, and replaced whatever water
or antifreeze drooled out in the meantime.


 Arf!  Arf!  Gotcha!
                                                                       
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech