HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: asah@cory.Berkeley.EDU (Adam Sah)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: WANTED: How to make whiskey / references...
Date: 28 Sep 92 23:49:09
Organization: Inverse proportionality to importance.
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: cory.berkeley.edu


I have this neat idea for a grad school celebration.  See, the way I figure it,
  grad school in CompSci is about 6 years (avg at UC Berkeley) and if I start
  a batch of whiskey in my closet now, it will be ready by the time I'm ready
  to graduate.

If I don't make it, well, then consider it a punishment to have to quaff un-
  finished brew.

I have friends who know how to brew beer, but whiskey seems to elude them.
  Do any of you netters have pointers?  (ie. is there a file around that
  someone has that tells me about this)

More likely, can anyone recommend a book or some other source?

Please email me, as I do not read this group regularly... I *promise* to
  summarize!

Thanks again,
-A.Sah'92

 ...Adam Sah...asah@cs.Berkeley.EDU...stuck in hell, I mean graduate school...

--
Thanks again,
-A.Sah'92

 ...Adam Sah...asah@cs.Berkeley.EDU...stuck in hell, I mean graduate school...
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: "glenn anderson" <glenn.anderson@canrem.com>
Subject: clarifying help
Reply-To: "glenn anderson" <glenn.anderson@canrem.com>
Organization: Canada Remote Systems
Distribution: rec
Date: 2 Oct 92 12:16:56 EST


DK>I have both polyclar and bentonite, yet both Papazian and Miller are
DK>sketchy on their instructions.  Do I really just dump this clay (bentonite)
DK>into my carboy before racking into the keg?  I realize I must sanitize it
DK>with boiling h2o per Miller, but how quickly does this stuff settle out?


David, I've never used bentonite, but I do use Polyclar in all of my beers.
What I do is dissolve 3 Tablespoons of Polyclar in about 500Ml of
PRE-BOILED water. I then add this to the Carboy, carefully and let 
it sit for 3-4 days at as low a temperature as possible (usually 35F).

I find that at this temperature proteins will precipitate into chill haze
and the Polyclar will drag them to the bottom. Since I started using
Polyclar I havn't had a chill haze problem.

--


Glenn Anderson                  Absence of evidence should never    
Manager, Telecom. Facilities    be mistaken for evidence of         
Sun Life of Canada              absence.                            
glenn.anderson@canrem.com               - Walter Lewin -            

---
  DeLuxe 1.21 #11377  
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: mccon@ssdd475a.erim.org (Joe McConnell)
Subject: Re: Kegging Systems in a Refrigerator
In-reply-to: ibiggs@fox.nstn.ns.ca's message of Mon, 5 Oct 1992 16:15:30 GMT
Organization: Environmental Research Institute of Michigan, Ann Arbor, Michigan
Date: 5 Oct 92 16:32:47

I have just begun kegging with a Cornelius tank, in the reefer.  No
problems, but you will need to adjust pressures -- obviously, they
decline as temperature drops.  Also, I've had to torque down a couple
of fittings as they contracted and lost seal.
--
Joe McConnell  | Opinions expressed are the   | Don't blame me!  I voted for
mccon@erim.org | author's, not the employer's.| Stephen Maturin!
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: can@mitre.org (Christopher A. Nissen)
Subject: counterpressure bottling
Organization: The MITRE Corp
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 18:58:46 GMT

Can anyone provide any info on techniques and equipment required to
counterpressure bottle?  Is it possible to construct the equipment myself? 
I see articles where people are using this technique to "tap" off a bottle
for submission to AHA contests and winning besides!  Currently, I am
kegging 99% of my batches but would really like the option of bottling at a
later date for gifts, trips, contests, etc.  My local supply store manager
said he could special order a device for around $40 but didn't know how it
worked or what it looks like.  This sounds like a last resort to me.

Thanks in advance


Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: busch@stx.com (jim busch)
Subject: re: culturing equipment
Keywords: yeast
Organization: Goddard Space Flight Center
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 18:56:37 GMT

glenn anderson" <glenn.anderson@canrem.com> asks about yeast
culturing equipment in the Toronto area.  My friend, Dr.
Martin Schiller operates a yeast culturing supply house 
out of his home here in MD.  He mail orders all over the
US (and I assume canada).  Both yeast strains and equipment
are available and cheaper than I have ever seen elsewhere.

Obligatory non commercial disclaimer statement:  I am in no
way affliated financially with said institution other than 
as a satisfied customer and non paid consultant :-)

To contact Martin, call 301-231-8211.

Jim Busch
busch@daacdev1.stx.com

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: bramduff@brewich.hou.tx.us (Silver Claw)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Tinny taste in homebrew
Date: Sat, 26 Sep 92 13:44:12 CDT
Organization: The Brewer's Witch BBS, +1 713 272 7350, Brewich.Hou.TX.US

> assert.  I'm going to trust them - not having the desire to do a
> chemical analysis to prove one way or the other.  Perhaps you would be
> so kind as to post the supporting data for your claim that they are
> really made out of steel.

        Perhaps you should just try picking the stuff up with a magnet.  
If it doesn't pick up, there's not enough steel in the thing to worry 
about.


Silver Claw

------------------
bramduff@brewich.hou.tx.us (Silver Claw)
Origin: The Brewer's Witch BBS -- Houston, TX -- +1 713 272 7350
     "Silence is the voice of complicity" - Vote Early, Vote Often!
From: magus@brewhau.bison.mb.ca (James Copland)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: WANTED: How to make whiskey / references...
Date: Tue, 06 Oct 92 13:33:38 CDT
Distribution: na
Organization: Organium Brainbending & Low Level CodeWorks of Winnipeg, Manitoba.

waflowers@quantum.on.ca (Bill Flowers) writes:

> In article <1992Oct4.213742.704@cbnewsl.cb.att.com> psrc@pegasus.att.com (Pau
> >If you want to make a celebratory drink (that takes a long time to
> >age), try barleywine or champagne.  Unlike whiskey, these are legal to
> >make without a license.
> >
> >The trick is to get a really good seal around your bottle cap or cork.
> >Even a little bit of oxygen getting in, after six years, could make
> >your toasts undrinkable.
>
> Just a thought, but how about dipping the neck and cap in wax to
> improve the seal? Or does too much oxygen leak through wax so that it
> wouldn't make much difference over a long period of time? Has anyone
> tried this for very long-term aging beverages? (Have I just reinvented
> the wheel again?)
> --
> --
Of course, Champagne is corked and wired in, a method I recommend for
barleywine also.  Wine makers prefer lead or plastic as they are much
less permiable to the air than wax is.

Regards,
Magus.

-- magus@brewhau.bison.mb.ca (James Copland)
-- Brew Haus -- Winnipeg, Manitoba
From: 2ftptimely@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: cream ale
Date: 27 Sep 92 15:23:30 CDT
Organization: University of Kansas Academic Computing Services

I am thinking about brewing a cream ale. I really don't have the
facilities to do a real lager fermentation at a cool temperature.
Does it really matter? Does anyone have a good recipe or any
ideas about brewing cream ales at moderate temps?  Thanks so
much.

George
(would prefer replies at):
frazier@hawk.cs.ukans.edu


Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: eal@dg.UUCP (Erik Lee)
Subject: More beginner questions
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 92 17:31:07 GMT
Reply-To: eal@dg.UUCP (Erik Lee)
Organization: Data General Corporation, Research Triangle Park, NC

Hi all,

  i just had a few random questions ... i'm pretty much a
beginner ( 3 batches ... 2 extract, last one all-grain, reading
r.c.b abount 2 months ) so, sorry if this sounds silly. The
answer to them all is probably "Relax! Don't worry! Have a
homebrew!", but my first batch is mostly gone and the next two
are still in the pipe, so, unless some one wants to lend me some ...

  - i remember reading somewhere that cold break material could
  cause off flavors in beer. I keep getting these huge globs of
  whitish material, which i assume is cold break, forming in the
  beer after an hour or two in the carboy ... they settle down to
  the bottom after about a day ( except in my second batch, where
  the yeast took off after about 12 hours and the roiling broke
  them apart ). Is there any advantage to racking the beer ( is
  it beer yet? ) off the stuff after a day? Or a way to make it
  drop faster? ( If it's relevant, i used an immersion chiller to
  cool to about 75F in 20 minutes ). If so, should i pitch first,
  or would i be racking the beer of the yeast as well? Or does
  nobody worry about it? My first batch had some definite
  off-flavour ... kind of bitter ( not hoppy bitter ), though not
  enough to keep most of it from being consumed in a couple weeks.

 - my last batch i used liquid yeast ( Wyeast 1056 ) with a
  starter. I boiled a cup or so of M&F hopped DME in a quart of
  water, cooled it, put it in a sterile ( i hoped ) apple juice
  jar with the lid on loosely ( my airlock didn't fit ). When i
  pitched about 24 hours later i poured off most of the liquid
  and dumped all the sludge on the bottom in. Then i took a sip
  of the stuff i poured off and it tasted very cidery ... did i
  infect my beer?

My only possibly interesting contribution to the brewing disasters
thread ( now dead, i guess ) is my stupid assumption doing my last
batch that sparging with the nested buckets method, i could fill
up to the top of the inner bucket ... obviously, as soon as i got
above the outer bucket's rim, wort started spewing all over the
counter, cabinets, and floor. Lost enough to saturate a beach
towel, at least.

If anyone's read this far,

				thanks for any advice.
				Erik
From: tclar@BADDOG.CCA.CR.ROCKWELL.COM (Thomas G. Clark)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Multiple batches from one Wyeast
Date: 30 Sep 92 18:48:40 GMT


Hi ya'll,
	I'm trying to perfect my procedures a bit and decided that a good test
would be to brew identical batches until I get what I want, whithout changing 
anything but my procedures.  To try and save money in this process, I'd like
to make several, (3 or 4), batches from one Wyeast package.  Since there will
probably be a couple of weeks between batche to allow for bottle conditioning
and testing, what is the best way to save the yeast?  I have never cultured
before and have no equipment to do so but I would accept all ideas.  Please
E-mail your responses and I'll post a summary to the list.  Thanks in advance.

Tom Clark
tclar@baddog.cca.cr.rockwell.com
From: slk6p@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: clarifying helpy
Date: 5 Oct 92 13:47:57 MDT
Followup-To: rec.crafts.brewing
Organization: Utah State University

In article <klumpp-290992092335@alexander.nbp.nwu.edu>, klumpp@casbah.acns.nwu.edu Klumpp) (David Klumpp) writes:
> Tonight I will keg for the first time, and I would like to use clarifying
> agents  on a golden ale.
> 
> I have both polyclar and bentonite, yet both Papazian and Miller are
> sketchy on their instructions.  Do I really just dump this clay (bentonite)
> into my carboy before racking into the keg?  I realize I must sanitize it
> with boiling h2o per Miller, but how quickly does this stuff settle out?
*You want to hydrate the bentonite before adding it to the beer.
Sanitizing with the water will do it.
It is a clay.  A chemical lattice with negative charges on the surface.
When introduced to the brew it "grabs" positive ions (and negative ones)
from solution (cations and anions) by electrostatic association with
the clay's surface.  These resulting flocculants (particles) will then
settle out of solution-  given time.  I haven't actually used it myself
so I couldn't give you a time.  I'd guess- at least a day, to several.
	Let us know how it works.
				J. WYllie  SLK6P@ cc.usu.edu


> 
> I would really appreciate any help people could offer.  I would hate to
> screw up my brew -- it would be a real bummer if we didn't have home brew
> for our first homebrew party! 
> 
> David Klumpp
> Dept. Biochemistry, Molecular Biology and Cell Biology
> Northwestern Univeristy
> 2153 Sheridan
> Evanston, IL 60208
> klumpp@casbah.acns.nwu.edu
From: ulick@gershwin.helios.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Full mashing Re: The Rice-Brau Challenge (Recipe + Notes)
Date: 2 Oct 92 22:41:52 GMT
Organization: OUC, University of Notre Dame

In article <BvI9nq.2w8@ddsw1.mcs.com> arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) writes:
> 
> >Miller makes a big deal out of 1.5 hr boils to get a
> good hot break.  Any info momily man?
> 
> I read the same books you do.  I boil 10 gals down to 7 gals 
> and can't do it in less that 1.5 hrs so I have no feel for 
> the nuances of the issue.
>
Thought you might, seeing as you mention experimentation with
sparge water temperature, and in general have an investigative
attitude about conventions.
 
> There are those who claim you should quit at 1.008 or risk 
> tanninitis.
>
I like tea!  Honestly, I think the amount of tannin eluted 
by sparge water at the end of the sparge would be insignificent
compared to the tannins eluted earlier in the mash and sparge.
But Miller talks about clear runoff.  I always have weak tea,
even with pH <5 sparge water.  Not a big issue.
 
> I am totally confused.  I thought we were talking about boil 
> time and see no connection between conversion temp and boil 
> time.

We were musing over several full mashing issues including mashing,
sparging, and boiling.  Sorry if my last posting was confusing.


+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 
+ Help the Libertarian party buy network    + Ulick Stafford, PP-ASEL       +
+ time.  Call 1-800-682-1776 and make a     + Dept of Chemical Engineering, +
+ small donation.                           + Notre Dame, IN 46556          +
+      B'fhearr liom bheith ag eitilt.      +    ulick@bach.helios.nd.edu   +
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jchokey@leland.Stanford.EDU (James Alexander Chokey)
Subject: Re: Rheinheitsgebot???
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 92 17:32:46 GMT

In article <BvCBD2.3Bt@news.cso.uiuc.edu> parsons@osiris.cso.uiuc.edu (Mark Parsons) writes:
>binkley@boulder.Colorado.EDU (Jon Binkley) writes:
>
>>Also, German beer drinkers' (justified) chauvinism
>>will do just as good a job at keeping foreign beers from being any
>>serious threat to German beers as any protectionist law ever did.
>
>I believe that the German Brewers also formally agreed to continue to abide
>by the Rheinheitsgebot.  German beer will remain unsullied despite EC
>beauracracy.
>

	Don't you mean the removal of German bureaucracy?  This is a case
of removing legal restrictions on brewing rather than on implementing them.

	--  Jim C. <jchokey@leland.stanford.edu>
From: gelly@persoft.com (Brewing Chemist Mitch)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Sounds like a good scam (was Re: what ever happened to the net brew competition?)
Keywords: peche kriek framboise
Date: 5 Oct 92 13:57:18 GMT
Organization: Persoft, Inc.

In article <92Cb02vj24zn01@JUTS.ccc.amdahl.com> jdg00@amail.amdahl.com (Josh Grosse) writes:
>jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo) writes:
>
>>Anyone remember who the volunteer judge was?
>
>The competition was discussed and organized last fall.  Mark Nightengale
>volunteered to direct the competition, and people were to send beers to him
>in the October timeframe.  I recall that I was fairly late in bottling, so
>had to ship by 2nd day air to get to him by the deadline.
>
>After hearing nothing about the competition, I wrote to him in December and
>was told that the competition was delayed until January.  In January I wrote
>to him and was told that the competition was delayed until February.  After
>that, I never recieved any further response to either electronic mail or to
>posted articles here in r.c.b.

Sounds like a good scam to me. "Everyone, send me two of your best beers, and
I'll tell you which one was best".

I'll volunteer to collect the next round of qualifiers ;-)

ObMurph: Where are you, dude ?

Also, can anyone tell me if Liefmans makes a peche ???

Cheers,

  Mitch



-- 
--- gelly@persoft.com -------------------------------------------------------
         When you go in for a job interview, I think a good thing
          to ask is if they ever press charges.  -- Jack Handey
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us (Joseph Nathan Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: SNPA Yeast (was The Rice-Brau Challenge (update))
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 92 00:27:08 EDT
Organization: 5 Sigma Software
Reply-To: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us
X-Mailer: uAccess - Macintosh Release: 1.5v5


In article <jdecarlo.295.717964030@mitre.org> (rec.crafts.brewing), jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo) writes:
) In article <01050166.euko28@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us>
)  joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us (Joseph Nathan Hall) writes:
) 
) >As an aside, the SNPA yeast flavor is SO characteristic that I think
) >it limits the yeast's usefulness in, at least, light colored beers,
) >since most of them would come out tasting pretty much like slight
) >variations on SNPA.  What luck have you folks had using SNPA yeast in 
) >dark beers and/or barleywines?
) 
) Well, Sierra Nevada uses it in their dark ales and barley wines, and I used 
) it in a porter once that tasted quite good.

Let's see ... the only SN brews I see around here are SNPA and Bigfoot.
I am told that they use the same yeast for all their beers.

I don't remember being overwhelmed by Bigfoot.  As I recall it was
pretty similar to the rest of the 2nd tier barleywines, like Old Nick,
etc.  Barleywine is one area where I believe a homebrewer can really
excell.  There are so few commercial brews with respectable starting
gravities (1.100+), you know .... :-)

(Rambling ...)

That brings up an interesting observation.  At least I think it's
interesting.  I've found that strong barleywines (OG 1.100+) ferment
and clear fairly rapidly.  The beer is usually clear in the secondary
after, oh, a few weeks.  This is true with all the yeasts I've tried.
But I have had a devil of a time getting yeast to drop out of beers 
in the 1.070-1.085 gravity range.  I wind up bottling after 4-5 weeks
while the beer is still translucent.  It clears after many months,
leaving a light deposit.  Honestly, I *think* it's yeast, not some sort
of haze ... perhaps the alcohol content isn't enough to kill off the
yeast, but it is enough to slooooow it down.  Ideas?

(Continuing to ramble)

So, is there supposed to be live yeast in Grant's IPA?  The sediment
*looked* like yeast, anyway.  I've failed to get anything out of the 
dregs of one bottle, but will probably try again.

uunet!joebloe!joseph   (609) 273-8200 day   joseph%joebloe@uunet.uu.net
2102 Ryan's Run East        Rt 38 & 41             Maple Shade NJ 80852
-----My employer isn't paying for this, and my opinions are my own-----
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Subject: Re: Very low starting Spec. Gravity, what to do?
Keywords: gravity, low
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean  VA
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 14:38:57 GMT

In article <BvpCyC.A0s@mail.boi.hp.com>
 kmcintyr@boi.hp.com (Kevin McIntyre) writes:

>  I started a brew last night and the starting specific
>gravity was very low but I went ahead and pitched the
>yeast and continued.  Is there anything I can do to
>raise the spec. gravity now or is it just one of those
>things you let ride???

I wouldn't particularly worry about this beer.

*However*, I would examine both the ingredients and the process carefully to 
try and determine where the problem is.

Without any more information than you gave, I would suspect that the sample 
you took wasn't indicative of the wort, as that is a very common problem.

John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own
Fidonet:  1:109/131  Internet:  jdecarlo@mitre.org
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Subject: Re: Pumpkin beer
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean  VA
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 11:46:22 GMT

In article <lqjz7=j@rpi.edu>
 gurakl@aix.rpi.edu (Laura J. Gurak) writes:

>In article <dadz6=-@rpi.edu> you write:
>>Although a homebrewer myself, I am posting this notice for a
>>friend who does not have access to the Usenet. He is looking
>>for a recipe for PUMPKIN BEER. If you can help him out,
>>please write back to him directly at:

>I hope you'll post this, too.  I know that Buffalo Bill sells his
>recipe, but I haven't bought either it or a bottle of the results.

I made what turned out to be a very popular pumpkin pie ale.  However, I 
don't have my notes with me.

Basically, I started with the recipe in the Winner's Circle book, but it was 
an all-grain recipe.

So, I used 6 lbs. of light malt extract, about 1/2 lb. of crystal, and about 
4 lbs. of canned pumpkin, plus lots of pumpkin pie-type spices, some in the 
brewpot and some in the secondary.

I cooked the pumpkin in the brewpot with the malt extract--big mistake.  It 
is impossible to filter out, no matter what you do.  Each time I racked--to 
primary, to secondary, to bottling bucket--I left a lot behind and it never 
did clear.  Probably bottled about 3 gallons from the original 5.

Next time I will cook the pumpkin separately, then add the crystal malt and 
steep another half hour, then put into a huge grain bag and squeeze tight.  
That pumpkin really clogs up any strainers you try to use.

John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own
Fidonet:  1:109/131  Internet:  jdecarlo@mitre.org
From: rcpt@rw9.urc.tue.nl (Piet Tutelaers)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Dutch beer course
Date: 30 Sep 92 23:28:08 GMT
Reply-To: rcpt@urc.tue.nl



In 1985 I have made a Dutch beer course.  This course explains how to
make a basic beer from water, malt, hop and yeast according to the
German `Reinheitsgebot'.  If somebody wants to translate this course
from Dutch into English I can provide the troff and/or LaTeX sources. 

Making beer is in fact very simple provided that you have the right
equipment.  Even with simple tools you can make beer but it will take a
lot of time and work.  That is how beer was made in the Middle Ages.  To
make life more confortable you will need expensive equipment rising the
cost of your brews.  That is the reason we see a lot of `easy recipes'
using malt extract.  My course tries to explain the beer making basics
so you could create your own favourite beer recipe instead of just
copying a commercial beer.  That is real fun!

Cheers,

--Piet
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing