HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [F] Driftwood in an aquarium?
Date: 18 Nov 92 09:35:39 GMT
Article-I.D.: netcom.1992Nov18.093539.9535
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)

In article <1992Nov17.201021.5248@midway.uchicago.edu> mnc1@midway.uchicago.edu writes:
>So I'm going to go find a piece of dried out wood and

It is not so simple to find a nice piece of wood to soak.  The shape is
very important.  Make sure the wood is oak, cedar or some other hard wood
and soak it for a few months.  

BTW, Java moss will happily live and grow without drift wood.  It will 
attach itself to rocks and gravel if it can.

-- 
Oleg Kiselev at home			...use the header to find the path
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: dphantom@triton.unm.edu (darlene an  92sep02 lawry)
Subject: Re: Iridescent shark catfish		
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 92 00:04:47 GMT
Organization: University of New Mexico, Albuquerque

In article <1992Nov18.211453.18686@watson.ibm.com> cliff@watson.ibm.com (cliff) writes:
>Do iridescent shark catfish eat at night?  Even though my specimen	
>is quite active during the day, I never see him eat.  I wonder if they
>prefer to scavenge for food when the lights are out.		
>Thanks, Cliff

Hm.  Mine seem to be most active at the break of day.  In any case, 
they will eat during the day if you condition them to--they're kinda
slow learners as to when feeding time is, though.  You might try
feeding them "chunky" food (they take to it more readily than flakes).

Oh, and one more thing.  They're easily stressed--they're mild-manner,
(mannered), so watch out for aggression against them.  They're also
sensitive to water conditions, especially nitrates.  If they aren't
happy, they won't eat.  Also, if they're stressed, watch out for
cotton-mouth...they'll race across the tank and into the side, and
bash their nose up, leading to possible infection.  If they develop
a dark or white spot on their nose, remove them *immediately*.
From: weekley@helios.phy.ohiou.edu (Don Weekley)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: O3 ---> CO2  (hmmm?!)
Date: 23 Nov 92 03:24:12 GMT
Organization: Ohio University ASCGL, Athens

Hi wetnetfolks, :)

	I was reading about Ozone filters in the FAQ and thought
about someting that I had read there but nowhere else. In the FAQ
it states that the excess ozone is filtered through carbon to
form CO2, and released to the atmosphere. My thought is what if
that CO2 would be redirected into the tank. You then could get
the advantages of both filters for the price of one

	The only problem I can see now would be controlling the
flow of CO2 w/o affecting the O3 flow. Would this be too much
CO2? I don't really know anything about O3 filters, except for
what is in the FAQ. Could someone straighten me out on the
differences? Or is this just an idea no one has thought about?

	Thanks in advance.		Don



-- 
Don't stop thinking about tomorrow.....
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria,sci.aquaria
From: dbs@hprnd.rose.hp.com (Dave Sheehy)
Subject: Re: [M][B] Help & questions after 1st week cycling 1st tank
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 19:14:13 GMT
Organization: HP - Systems Technology Division
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.8 PL6]

Custer (rtc@sgfb.ssd.ray.com) wrote:
:   The lamp that came with the aquarium is also made by Perfecto and is labeled
:   Perfect-A-Lamp, 40 watts 48" number F40T12. It does have a pinkish tinge to 
:   it.  Is this lamp adequate ? Should I have two ?

An F40 is a cool white type bulb if I remember correctly. They do not emit a 
wide spectrum of light. It would be better to add another 40W bulb (for a 
total of 2 40W bulbs, you can use the F40 as one of the bulbs if you like) 
such as a Chroma 75 or a Vita-lite.

: 2) Do I have good test kits ?
: ...
:      I went with the SeaTest kits.  It has been a little difficult to read the
:      scales as the colors don't match exactly. I guess the idea is to find
:      the shade that sort of looks like the closest match.

Yeah, I use the SeaTest kits and that's pretty much what I do. I don't match
the colors so much but rather the intensity. This is especially true of the 
Nitrate test. It helps me to match against a white suface which is backlit. I
do my tests in the kitchen and match against the white diffuser of the overhead
florescent lights.

: 4) Do I have enough bio load to cycle this size tank correctly ?

Hmm, what do you mean by cycle "correctly"? Your tank will cycle and stabilize
at the current load level. If you alter the load after the tank has cycled
(e.g. by adding a new animal) the tank will in effect cycle again and 
stablilize at the new load. If you have a large load at the very beginning the
tank will experience correspondingly high ammonia and nitrite peaks. This will
in turn cause more stress among the inhabitants. The objective (at least in
my mind) is for the animals that you're using to cycle the tank survive the
process. From your description it sounds like your fish are having a tough go
of it so it may have been a bit aggressive to start with that many fish.

: Todd Custer

Dave Sheehy

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: cliff@watson.ibm.com ()
Subject: Golden Tin Foil Barbs
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 14:47:35 GMT
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: A

I recently purchased two large "Golden" Tin Foil Barbs.  They look just
like tin foil barbs, but their backs have a golden hue.  The fish store	
owner says its a different variety, but now I'm wondering if the
golden color is artificial.... Any tips?  THanks, Cliff
From: eber0005@student.tc.umn.edu (Carlos Eberhardt)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Induced voltages
Date: 19 Nov 92 15:51:38 GMT
Organization: University of Minnesota
X-Xxmessage-Id: <A731139943016527@dialup-slip-1-39.gw.umn.edu>
X-Xxdate: Thu, 19 Nov 92 09:49:13 GMT
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d12


	Since I have a freshwater tank, I wouldn't think it necessary to have a
titanium probe, and that stainless steel would suffice. I have added
aquarium salt, however. I guess my question is this: 
	If I go with a stainless steel probe, what are the possible
	repercussions to my tanklife (a tiger oscar, 2 blue channel
  cats, a pleco, & some plants)?
I'm guessing that any corrosion would only affect the performance of the
probe, and not be serious enough to harm the tank.

Carlos Eberhardt   ----------->   eber0005@student.tc.umn.edu
From: vstem@cobra.calgary.chevron.com (D. Stewart McLeod)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Calgary Aquarium Society
Keywords: C.A.S.
Date: 20 Nov 92 19:41:30 GMT
Organization: chevron

Having just joined my local aquarium society here in Calgary (C.A.S.), 
I thought that I would see if any other members are on the internet.

Could anyone who is a member please send me email to my email address
below. Thanks.

-- 
D. Stew McLeod                  Internet: vstem@calgary.chevron.com
Chevron Petroleum Technology Company          Tel: (403) 234-5810
500, Fifth Ave. S.W.                          Fax: (403) 234-5215
Calgary, Alberta, Canada   T2P 0L7
From: mdkj@vax5.cit.cornell.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: (F) Lowering the ph, softening the water...
Date: 16 Nov 92 20:06:54 EST
Distribution: usa,rec
Organization: Cornell University

In article <1992Nov15.205346.10070@en.ecn.purdue.edu>,
wmack@en.ecn.purdue.edu (William J Mack) writes: 
> Another distilled water question again.  Does anyone see any pitfalls using
> DW mixed in with my conditioned tap water when doing water changes in order to
> aquire softer water with a lower pH in the tank.  My pH is about 7.8+ and the
> water is hard  (I dont know the exact hardnesses).  When I tested the DW, it
> gave 6.6.  I guess what I really want to do is to lower my tap waters buffering
> capacity, since getting the pH down is not as easy as just adding some pH down.
> Would using peat in my aquaclear be a better idea?  Any comments or suggestions
> would be appreciated.  Thanks
> 
> Bill Mack                       

I think adding distilled water is OK. After all, that's what you get from an RO
filter also... However, two potential problems: (1) some commercially available
distilled waters contain lots of heavy metals (esp. copper, which is mildly
toxic to your fish), and (2) this solution might be $$$ expensive!  I had the
same problem, and I ended up buying a RO unit.  Forget about peat, though.  If
your water is hard, the peat will not make any appreciable difference.  Buy a
hardness measuring kit, which is very cheap.  This will tell you right away
whether it is better to buy a couple of gallons of distilled water every month,
of shell out $200 for the RO machine.
Good luck,

John Opsomer
From: pora@hera.Berkeley.EDU (Pora Park)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: 10-gal lighted cover wanted
Date: 18 Nov 1992 22:43:02 GMT
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
Distribution: ba
NNTP-Posting-Host: hera.berkeley.edu


WANTED:
=======

	Cover for 10 gallon aquarium, with working light socket.
        Bulb not necessary.  Any condition is okay, if it works!

	Also wanted, gravel for bottom of the aquarium.
        Any color will do!


Email or call

Pora Park
pora@hera.berkeley.edu
(510) 643-6633
From: dc37@prism.gatech.EDU (COLLINS,DONALD J)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: (F) African Cichlid Questions
Date: 19 Nov 92 20:44:43 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology

Hello all-

I recently aquired two african cichlids which I can't find in the
books I have ("The Cichlid Aquarium", and, "The Cichlids of Malawi
and Tanganyika" both from TFH Press).  The fish were called by the 
fish store Psuedotropheous Kenniyi and Psuedotropheous Avanti.

Can anyone tell me if these fish have some other name? 
If not, have I gotten some mixed up home breed of cichlid?
Also if anyone knows of any books which reference these species I
would like to know about it.

One more question. I have two cyathopharynx furcifers which are still
juvaniles.  Does anyone know how long it takes for these fish to 
reach their full adult coloration?

Thanks

Jason

P.S. Please excuse my spelling errors

-- 
COLLINS,DONALD J
Georgia Institute of Technology, Atlanta Georgia, 30332
uucp:	  ...!{decvax,hplabs,ncar,purdue,rutgers}!gatech!prism!dc37
Internet: dc37@prism.gatech.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: mnc1@quads.uchicago.edu (Mr. Happy Carlson)
Subject: [F] Driftwood in an aquarium?
Reply-To: mnc1@midway.uchicago.edu
Organization: University of Chicago Computing Organizations
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 20:10:21 GMT

Well, I did it. I went out and bought that 55 gallon tank I've been
dreaming about. No I want to decorate it. I've got a few plants and
I've got some Java moss on order. The guy in the aquarium store said
Java moss does best on a piece of wood, rather than straight on the
gravel. So I'm going to go find a piece of dried out wood and
waterlog it and put it in my tank. Are there any chemistry type
things to worry about when doing this? I certainly don't
want some piece of rotten wood making my aquarium uninhabitable. Moderate
pH changes shouldn't be a problem for the fish I have in mind. Any
and all advice would be greatly appreciated.

Matt Carlson  (mnc1@quads.uchicago.edu)
From: booth@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (George Booth)
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 19:56:05 GMT
Subject: Re: (Summary) Erythromycin vs Blue-Green Algae - a short article
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria

In rec.aquaria, rclark@alcor.concordia.ca (Richard Clark) writes:

    be glad to credit the person in the text.  I wanted to reference
    George and Karla Booth's recent series in AFM as a good place to get
    information, but I don't know what months it ran (or is still
    running).   Could someone tell me?

It ran in Aug, Sept, Oct and Dec '92. 

-------
George
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: daf@herky.cs.uiowa.edu (David Forsyth)
Subject: Re: Golden Severums and Anglefish			
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 19:31:19 GMT
Organization: University of Iowa, Iowa City, IA, USA

From article <1992Nov17.171736.14141@borland.com>, by dave@borland.com (Dave Draper):
> In article <2BF=vgB@engin.umich.edu> nclennan@churchst.ccs.itd.umich.edu (Neil F. Clennan) writes:
>>In article <1992Nov10.194350.3394@borland.com> dave@borland.com (Dave Draper)  
>>writes:
>>> Gold Severums, _Heros severus_, are herbivor cichlids from South America.
>>
>>Did you say "herbivore"?!!  Not mine.  Mine are omnivorous.  Though the
>>books I've read can't agree on whether to call Gold Severums Heros severus
>>or Cichlasoma severum, none of them call these fish herbivores.
>>
> 
> I stand by my origianl statement that in general _Heros severus_ and
> _Heros appendiculatus_ (Turquoise Severum) are herbivors. Of course there
> are probably exceptions to the rule.
>
I second that.  In my experience, severums are embarassingly, expensively
herbivorous; even small ones cause great holes to appear in plant leaves.

I suspect that my festivums are omnivorous though, as they get very excited
when offered feeder guppies, chase them all over the tank, and occasionally
even catch them.  I have seen them rip holes in plants, too, but with
limited enthusiasm.

My severums do chase feeder guppies, but haven't to date actually caught one.
They seem to lose interest at the last moment.

daf
Organization: University of Maine System
Date: Monday, 23 Nov 1992 16:49:35 EST
From: <APARKER@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: (F) African cichlid questions

In article <1992Nov21.210632.12345@unislc.uucp>, livings@unislc.uucp (Ross
Livingston) says:
>
>I currently have 4 Hap. Obliquedens (1 male, 3 females) and 2 Hap
>'Pearly' calvus (sex ??) in a 55g with w/d filter.
>
** Have to add my two bits on this one.  They are (according to the current
taxonomy, you know how it goes...) _Altolamprologus calvus_.**

>My first question:  How do you sex juvenile calvus?

** Chances are you don't.  Cichlids, especially those which don't show much
    sexual dimorphism as adults, are extremely hard to sex as juveniles.
From my experience with their sister species _A. compressiceps_, you'll
have to wait (quite a while) for them to mature.  Once they start pairing
up it should become obvious.  Diagrams of male vs female genital papillae
can be found in Loiselle's The Cichlid Aquarium and elsewhere.**

>He also said the males are aggressive and the females of this species are
>quit docile.

** This conforms to what I've heard and noticed about them, although
Altolamprologus as a whole seem to be pretty low-key (for cichlids....)


>Next question:  The female Oblique's (especially two in particular) are
>really going the rounds with each other.  They sit and fight until the male

** Cichlids fight.  Make sure there are adequate hiding places. **

>One more question:  How much salt should I add to my water for species
>from lakes Tanganikya and Victoria?  Also, I've got my water at about 78
>degrees F.  Is this ok?  Thanks.

** 78 F sounds ideal.  My water mix for Tanganyikans is as follows:
      Add to 5gal moderately hard tap water
          1-2 tsp Tropic Marin Cichlid Salt (not that steep if you M.O.)
          1-2 tsp Instant Ocean

     I vary the amounts,depending on tap water chemistry, looking for
     a final product with around
                  GH: 300ppm   KH:160ppm   pH:8.0

Victorians certainly don't require these sort of conditions (only
Tanganyikans are really picky), but shouldn't be harmed by them either.

Enjoy your cichlids!    Alex Parker (aparker@maine.maine.edu)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: nagel@ucsu.Colorado.EDU (Kurt Nagel)
Subject: Re: [M] Cycling - Month 4
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1992 01:22:29 GMT

brian@picasso.icd.teradyne.com (Brian Hunter) writes:

>In article <1992Nov19.073829.3094@ucsu.Colorado.EDU> nagel@ucsu.Colorado.EDU (Kurt Nagel) writes:
>>wieser@bissun.kodak.com (Jim Wieser) writes:
>>
>>>About a month into things, the brown diatoms showed up. They were quickly 
>>>replaced with mainly purple algae although some bright green algae also 
>>>showed up. The purple algae hasn't gone away. 
>>
>>I had a similar problem.  In my case, the local experts explained that the
>>purple stuff is not actually an algae but is much more voracious than green
>>algae, so it takes over. It is most likely due to metal content in your water.  The solution was as follows:

>Where did you hear this about metals? 

This was from the local marine experts.  Apparently the red bacteria survives
better in an environment where heavy metals are present.  Although as you 
have correctly pointed out, metal content is not essential.

>>                       most of your biological filter.  Monitor your nitrates
>I think you meant nitites here.  Although if the dead algae is not 
>removed it will certainly result in nitrates as well.

No, I did mean nitrates.  Mine went off the scale and this was after removing
the major portion of dead red stuff.

>>		       religiously and perform frequent water changes until
>>		       the system stabilizes.

>This is not necessary true.  I have used maracyn several times and never
>seen any problem with the filter.  In another recent post on this subject
>it was thought that this may be worse in fresh water that salt.

It is not the maracyn that was the problem.  The red stuff WAS performing the
majority of my biological filtration before I killed it.  What I meant by the
warning was that your biological elements need to replace the dominant red
stuff.

>>
>>	My tank was completely cured.  Remember what I said about water
>>changes and nitrates.  I had to battle a hair algae problem after the 
>>purple crud because I didn't keep my nitrates down.

>I have found (and in articles seen it confirmed) that the cyano bacteria
>leave behind spores that will lie about for a week or two and then 
>?germenate? and start the problem over.  This will require a second
>treatment.  I have also seen it recommended that a treatment last 2 weeks
>however I prefer a second pass over the prolonged treatment.
Yes,
	I was warned that I might have to treat again.  However, I have not
had a re-occurence since treating 3 months ago.
>Brian Hunter
Kurt
nagel@fido.colorado.edu



Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: nclennan@churchst.ccs.itd.umich.edu (Neil F. Clennan)
Subject: Re: Golden Severums and Anglefish			
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 92 10:20:03 EST
Organization: The University of Michigan, Ann Arbor

In article <1992Nov17.171736.14141@borland.com> dave@borland.com (Dave Draper)  
writes:
> In article <2BF=vgB@engin.umich.edu> nclennan@churchst.ccs.itd.umich.edu  
(Neil F. Clennan) writes:
> >
> >Did you say "herbivore"?!!  Not mine.  Mine are omnivorous.  Though the
> >books I've read can't agree on whether to call Gold Severums Heros severus
> >or Cichlasoma severum, none of them call these fish herbivores.
> >
> 
> I stand by my origianl statement that in general _Heros severus_ and
> _Heros appendiculatus_ (Turquoise Severum) are herbivors. Of course there
> are probably exceptions to the rule.
> 
> I have several Severums in a tank with Oscars and Pike Cichlids. I have
> never seen them, the Severums, go after a feeder goldfish. I have seen
> them eat frozen brine shrimp and Tubifex worms. I feed mine Zuchinni,
> peas, spinach and lettuce on a regular basis and they gobble it right
> up.
> 
> Look in _The Cichlid Aquarium_ by Paul Loiselle. This is just one of
> the books that clearly states that Severums are herbivors.
> 
> - Dave

Intriguing.
  Axelrod calls Cichlasoma severum (Heckel) or Heros severus a predacious
fish, while Baensch actually goes so far as to call it a carnivore, but you
say that Loiselle calls them herbivores.  If the scientists can't agree,
it's no wonder that we can't.

  We'll have to agree to disagree, because I find it difficult to call
any fish an herbivore when it eats half a dozen guppies within 2 hours
of being introduced to a new tank.  Even yours eat brine shrimp and
tubiflex worms.  I also can't agree with Baensch, because my severum eagerly
eats lettuce and zucchini.  Also, Baensch claims that they don't burrow,
and I know that that's wrong.

--
Neil Clennan          | 
nclennan@umich.edu    | Sancho! My armor! My sword!
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: cheryl@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (cheryl.rothlisberger)
Subject: lung fish
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 17:22:11 GMT

I am posting this for a friend who has aquired an African lung fish. She
has found very little information in the books she's read regarding this
fish.  What other fish are compatible with this lung fish? Can she put
another in the same tank?  She has heard that it can grow up to three feet
long; is this true?  Also, how can she tell if the fish is a male or 
female?  She has noticed that occasionally the fish expands it's gills (?) -
do you know what this is all about?  

Thanks in advance for any information you can offer.  Please send email, 
because I don't read this newsgroup regularly.

Cheryl
attmail!quartet!car
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: new alt.cichlid newsgroup
From: preacher@lopez.marquette.MI.US (Preacher,Southside)
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 20:39:54 EST
Organization: Great White North/UPLink


if a group called alt.cichlids is created, or a mail list is set up, i
would like to be part of this.


--
 
Some people too big,    |   preacher@lopez.marquette..mi.us 
Some people too small,  |----* the only sane one on lopez *----
Some people just right but they talk too much.  --  My Grandfather
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: "chuck filson" <chuck.filson@canrem.com>
Subject: RO Filters (M)(F)
Reply-To: "chuck filson" <chuck.filson@canrem.com>
Organization: Canada Remote Systems
Distribution: rec
Date: 21 Nov 92 01:29:31 EST

In artical: <1992Nov19.171959.1093@esrican.uucp>
            schwarz@esrican.uucp (Brian Schwarz) wrote:

BS>I am considering purchasing a RO filter.  I read the FAQ.
...
BS>buy an "under-the-sink" (UTS) model.  I found an
BS>"attach-to-the-faucet" (ATTF) model the other day in a
BS>hardware store.  It retailed for CAN$60.00.  The UTS model has
BS>two canisters, each holding a different type of filter cartridge.
BS>One to filter sediment, etc. and the other to filter chlorine,
BS>bad taste & odour, etc.  I found that very few of them discuss
BS>the exact elements they remove.  The ATTF model uses the same
BS>bad taste, etc filter that the UTS model uses.

  You should check these units again. 

  You will probalbly find that they are NOT reverse osmosis units. 

  They sound like simple mechanical and chemical (carbon) filters that
are frequently sold to improve drinking water quality. There are a number
of makes of these units (Canadian Tire, WaterPic, etc) and while they may
serve their intended purpose well, they are not likely to meet your
requirements.

Chuck
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria