HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: bense@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ron Bense)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: oxygen sensor
Date: 6 Oct 92 20:55:39 GMT
Article-I.D.: oasys.26055
Reply-To: bense@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ronald Bense)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.autos.tech, dbowman@warp (Don A. Bowman) writes:

>The oxygen sensor is a fine platinum thing in the exhaust. It degrades
>slowly, and will not suddenly fail. I would replace it as it is important to
>your emissions. It shouldn't be expensive at all.

Although I agree with you about the technical aspects, mine was $96.
(And I got a 10% discount)

Ron                          Think about this one (seen on a bumper sticker):
			     The road to hell is bumper-to-bumper
			     Make a U-turn to God.
The irony is priceless.
From: dlou@WORF.UCSD.EDU (Dennis Lou)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Platinum Plugs
Date: 2 Oct 92 20:26:42 GMT
Reply-To: dlou@ece.ucsd.edu
Organization: University of California, San Diego


In article <25780@oasys.dt.navy.mil>, bense@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ron Bense) writes:
|> In rec.autos.tech, walkerr@yaya.WPI.EDU (Robert A Walker) writes:
|> >>What are the advantages of platinum plugs over the standard spark plugs?
|> 
|> >in there for 20 years.  But since platinum plugs cost 2 to 3 times
|> >as much they gotta be better.
|> 
|> Platinum plugs are capable of higher temperatures, and spark hotter.
|> They are sometimes designed for specific engines and control systems.
|> (That's right, I tried Bosch Platinums in my Toyota Turbo 2.0, and they
|> were burnt out in less than 15k, giving me all sorts of running problems.
|> Went back to Toyota Platinums, at $9.50 a piece, with the much wider
|> platinum tip, and voila, the engine ran fine again. Yes, I gapped them
|> corectly.) Platinum plugs are generally (as far as I know) only used/
|> recommended for high compression or turbo/super charged engines.

I've heard a lot of good things about Splitfire plugs too.

If you are feeling leary of platinums (especially Bosch Plats), give
Splitfires a try.


-- 
Dennis Lou             || "But Yossarian, what if everyone thought that way?"
dlou@ucsd.edu          || "Then I'd be crazy to think any other way!"
[backbone]!ucsd!dlou   |+====================================================
dlou@ucsd.BITNET       |Steve Jobs and Steve Wozniak went to my high school.
From: borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 15:42:47 GMT
Subject: Re: Current Arcs Everywhere
Organization: Hewlett Packard Company, Spokane, Wa.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

In rec.autos.tech, warsa@polaris.unm.edu (j warsa) writes:

>Vehicle: 1987 Toyota 4WD PU, 4 cyl., carb.
>
>After replacing the pcv valve and air and fuel filters, I noticed some slight
>hesitation in different engine rev ranges. I replaced the plugs, and the
>hesitation increased. I started it at night and saw current arcing all around
>the coil and intermittent arcing from the plug wires and coil wire. I then
>replaced the coil, but there is still current flowing everywhere. The coil
>sits atop something called the igniter assembly. Any ideas? Plug wires? 
>Replaced the igniter assembly (what is an igniter, anyway?) ?  Any replies
>would be greatly appreciated.

I would start by replacing the ignition wires.  They are old enough to need
replacing, and are fairly cheap and available aftermarket.  Then check
under the hood again for arcing.  You may need to replace the coil as well.


Donald Borowski    WA6OMI    Hewlett-Packard, Spokane Division
"Angels are able to fly because they take themselves so lightly."
                                       -G.K. Chesterton

From: michaeln@hpcvnb.CV.HP.COM (Mike_Nason)
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 92 02:46:40 PDT
Subject: Re: What's wrong with this? (electric problem!?)
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Corvallis, Oregon
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

  Well, this will be a shot in the dark.  If the engine was at the proper idle
speed and the fuel wasn't to lean, and the timing correct. Then I'd say maybe
the altenator is loading things down too much. Maybe it needs new bearings?
Maybe the engine is running slightly lean and can't handle the added load 
at idle. Maybe the timing is off alittle.  And maybe theres something else   
thats defective in the electrical system.  A headlamp pulling too much 
current, a wire in the headlamp circuit thats grounded....etc..
   I hope this gives you some ideas where to look.  Mike

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: brein@gpvax.jpl.nasa.gov (Barry Rein)
Subject: Re: Cracked Head Chrysler/Mitsubishi 2.2l
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 14:46:42 GMT

In article <BvApwt.EBL@fmsrl7.srl.ford.com>, tgl@slee01.srl.ford.com (Tom
Leone) wrote:
> 
> brein@gpvax.jpl.nasa.gov (Barry Rein) writes:
> : I have an 1987 Plymouth Sundance with the Mitsubishi 2.2 liter Turbo. 
> : 
> : It seems there is a cylinder head problem--bubbles in the radiator.
> 
> I had a similar problem with my 1988 Sundance turbo.  It was just the
> head gasket (the head was fine, not even warped).  It cost me $18
> and a weekend of labor to fix it.
> 
> By the way, the 2.2 liter regular and turbo engines are original
> Chrysler designs.  They even published an interesting SAE paper
> about the development of the turbo version.
> 
> Tom Leone <tgl@slee01.srl.ford.com>

Thanks to all who replied to my query.  I stand corrected on the origin of
this engine. 

Tom Leone was lucky that it was only the gasket.  I saw the removed head
yesterday. In all four chambers there is a crack between the intake and
exhaust ports.  My mechanic says that remanufactured heads are not
reliable, a statement confirmed by Mike Richman who had one fail six months
after it was put on.

I am going with a brand-new head.  Then I'm going to sell the car--the
turbo is starting to whine...

******************************************
*       Barry Rein                       *
*       brein@dsfvax.jpl.nasa.gov        *
******************************************
*       No clever comment.               *
******************************************
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: pacyga@rtsg.mot.com (Jim Pacyga)
Subject: Re: Mustang Cobra Article C/D Oct
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 22:50:00 GMT

In article <1992Sep30.143003.4509@galileo.cc.rochester.edu> awds_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Adam Edwards) writes:
>
> 
>I noticed something interesting while reading Car and Driver's blurb
>on the new Mustang Cobra.  It stated that various engine mods had
>bumped up the horsepower (I believe it said 40 over the stock 5.0),
>going on to say according to Ford's new power standard, the stock
			      ^^^^^^
It is not Ford's new standard, it is some change in the overall SAE net
horsepower rating system.  I am not sure of the details, but I am pretty
sure this is what you mean.  Also, I have not noticed that any other
manufacturers have downsized their ratings on other powertrains (yet).


>5.0l engine only outputs 205bhp.  Any thoughts on this?  I doubt this
>is the same gross vs. net horsepower thread, comments welcome.

--------------------+-------------------------------+
Jim Pacyga          | Motorola, Inc.                |
(708) 632-6903      | 1501 W. Shure Dr., IL-27-N258 |
pacyga@rtsg.mot.com | Arlington Heights,  IL  60004 |
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: xh2v@fermi.clas.Virginia.EDU (Xiaojun  Huang)
Subject:  Help!! Burning oil
Organization: University of Virginia
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 23:40:54 GMT

Hi, everyone,

My 84 civic started to smoke, light blue and smelt bad.

I guess it must have something to do with the temperature because:

1. It never happened before since I bought it in June, the weather has just turned
   very cold.

2. after driven for a while the problem seemed to dissapear.

3. when it is warmer, it smokes less.


I called the honda dealer and I was told that it probably was due to the worn

of the valve of the engine which seperated the oil from the combustion chamber.


I also called some other garage and got something totally different, such as

the piston ring or something even more serious.

Does anyone have any idea of have some expierience on this kind of problem?

Please send me a mail if you can help.

Thanks in advance,

Xiaojun.
From: sgm@otter.hpl.hp.com (Steve Methley)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: SUBARU 4WD LOCK-UP
Date: 6 Oct 92 17:28:49 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories, Bristol, UK.

peterson@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Rodney Peterson) in <25998@oasys.dt.navy.mil>:

> I HAVE AN '87 SUBARU THAT HAS 4 WHEEL DRIVE.  RECENTLY
> THE 4WD HAS BECOME EXTREMELY!!! DIFFICULT TO DISENGAGE.
> IT ENGAGES READILY AND EASILY BUT IS A REAL BEAR TO GET
> OUT.
> I TOOK IT TO THE DEALER TO LOOK AND HE TOLD ME MY PROBLEM
> STEMS FROM UNEVEN TIRE WEAR ON THE FRONT AND REAR TIRES, THAT
> A SLIGHT DIFFERENCE IN THE TIRE SIZES, DUE TO WEAR, CAUSES
> THE TRANSMISSION TO LOCK-UP......

It sounds like what you have is 'transmission wind-up' and the dealer is right.
Driving in reverse for a little way should help.  You don't say whether you
have a centre diff.  I presume not, or you have it locked.  Is the '4WD' lever
a centre diff lock or a 2WD/4WD selector?

If you drive in locked 4WD on tarmac, you are quite likely to get wind-up since
there are numerous reasons why front and back tires should rotate at slightly
different speeds.  If you do the same on a dirt track/mud/snow, nothing will
happen as the wheels will slip and scuff sufficiently to avoid the effect.

Hope this helps,
Cheers,
Steve.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: 73 Mustang and new 302
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 28 Sep 92 09:05:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> I own a 1973 Mustang Grande. It has a 351 Clevelnd engine, FMX trans
...
-> I have a friend who wrecked his 1991 Mustang GT and due to the idiot
...
-> Can the 302 gt motor fir in my car with only a change of mounts


 You will need to determine if the rear-sump late model oil pan will
clear the early car's steering and crossmember.  This is often the case
since the late pans are shallow.  If it won't clear, an early 302 pan
will be available from your local salvage yard.

 Unbolt the 351.  Save the rubber mounts.  Bolt them to the 302.
Scrounge a 302 auto flexplate from the junkyard.  Bolt it on.  Bolt the
302 to the FMX using the 351's bolts.  Depending on which water pump you
have, you might have to reroute the lower hose.  Have your local muffler
shop modify your exhaust to hook up to the 302's manifolds.  Unscrew
the water temp and oil pressure senders from the 351, put in the 302.
The 302 is now installed.

 Converting the fuel injection is left as an exercise for the reader.
You might prefer to go to a 4-barrel and sell the injection.

 Swapping the 5-speed in would be difficult.  The entire thing, from
back of the block to driveshaft yoke, is weird.  You would have to find
the pedal assembly for your '73 (not common for your body style) and
then adapt from pushrod to clutch - there is no pushrod bellhousing of
the proper depth to match your T5 input shaft unless you special order
something from Hays or Lakewood.


-> Am I completely nuts and out of my skul?

 The engine swap is fine, but unless you really want another "learning
experience" I don't recommend swapping the injection and trans too.
From: augy@toz.buffalo.ny.us (Jeffrey Ehlinger)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: SYNTEC by Castrol (Question) PTFE?
Date: 5 Oct 92 19:00:29 GMT
Organization: The Tower of Zot - (716)691-3865


     I wonder what the additive to Castrol's "Syntec" is, and if it 
actually coats the engine like "Slick 50". I also wonder if these two are 
compatible? Please post an answer.

==========================================================================
** Mail to: Augy@toz.buffalo.ny.us        <<<Tower of Zot>>> Bflo, NY   **
** The bus came by and I got on, that's when it all began!              **
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:13246 rec.autos.vw:5435
From: sylveste@ecs.umass.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: audi 4 valve heads (was DOHC on V8
Date: 29 Sep 92 10:40:35 GMT

In article <Sep24.185251.18934@engr.washington.edu>, eliot@lanmola.engr.washington.edu (eliot) writes:
> In article <18504.2ac1a4c6@ecs.umass.edu> sylveste@ecs.umass.edu writes:
>>      The Audi sport quattro that you mentioned was certainly not a production
>>car.
> 
> yes it is a group b homologation special.  i mentioned it because it
> is the car where all 4 valve vw/audi heads came from.  i.e. vw/audi
> had a 4 valve head as early as 1985 or so but we did not see it in the
> "ordinary" cars till much later.
> 
>> The sport was a shortened wheelbase version of the Audi Turbo quattro
>>coupe.  Even the turbo quattro coupe was a limited edition, only about 1500
>>units brought into the U.S in three years of production.
> 
> No, it was imported to the US for 3 years, but it continued to be made and
> upgraded in Europe for 10 years.  I think over 20,000 were made worldwide.
> 
>>  The production turbo
>>quattro coupe only had a ten valve engine.   
> 
> The US examples, yes, but the 89 (?) model onwards got the 20 valve
> head and the sophisticated boost control.  You know that "max. torque
> at 1950 rpm" engine.

 This car is called the S2.  And your right these are not available in the U.S.
The engine in this car is imported in limited edition but only in the 200 
Quattro.

                                                mike sylvester   Umass
                                                Sylveste@ecs.umass.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty)
Subject: Re: Threshold braking (was Re: "tank" superchargers)
Organization: New York State Institute for Sebastian Cabot Studies
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 23:13:27 GMT

In article <14.88.uupcb@chaos.lrk.ar.us> dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) writes:

>-> you will eventually find that there is a point where the pedal gets
>-> extremely hard; this is just before the lock up point.  if you can
>-> reliably and quickly find this point, then you can threshold brake.
>-> if your tires make a little noise, this is fine -- you get maximum

> Unfortunately, on a conventional cambered road with a conventional
>passenger car which isn't balanced for weight distribution, assuming
>nothing wrong with brakes, alignment, or tires, most front engine, rear
>wheel drive cars will lock the right front tire first during a
>maximum-effort stop.

ummm, i'll grant that this is probably true for the GM and Ford
products that you're accustomed to; i have sensed no such behaviour
from the european and japanese cars that most of my experience is
with.

> On most of the cars I've driven, pedal effort had little to do with how
>hard the brakes were being applied.  This is particularly true of Ford
>and GM power brake systems, which they seem to put on everything whether
>it needs power brakes or not.

again, i will concede for the poor disk brake systems that GM and Ford
have often turned out over the years; since most of my recent experience
has been in rentals, i was loathe to generalize from what are always
bottom of the barrel cars.

however, in the better european and japanese braking systems, the pedal
feel is dramatically better, and the point where the pedal gets hard is
a _very_ reliable indicator of the threshold.

richard
-- 
richard welty                            518-393-7228
welty@cabot.balltown.cma.com
  ``if you can read this, mario, you're too close''
    -- bumper sticker seen on a CART safety truck
From: gregj@pico.qpsx.oz.au (Greg Johnston)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Pontiac Fiero suspension
Date: 29 Sep 92 09:13:17 GMT
Organization: QPSX Communications LTD, Perth, Western Australia.
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4

wanted: springs to lower 87 GT Fiero 1.5 inches.  Can anybody
provide the name and fax number or other contact details for
a supplier?

Email to Greg Johnston (GREGJ@QPSX.OZ.AU)

Thanks
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: newark@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (antonio.cruz)
Subject: Engine runs now... was: Engine cranks but not running
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 22:25:18 GMT
Keywords: Engine runs

Thanks for the suggestions. 

As I mentioned before, a '77 HEI system was installed in a 
'74 Buick Regal with a Buick 350 (H) engine. The HEI system came
from a Buick 350 (H) engine. So the old coil and points system was
taken out. I also mentioned the timing was on the specs. For those that
want to now where the power to the HEI is coming from. I connected
a clip wire from the BAT connector of the HEI unit to the battery.
A toggle switch was made between the HEI unit and battery connection.
Or else, turning the car key off would still let the car run without
this toggle switch.

At first, the engine backfired once or twice last time I tried starting
it. Many responses mentioned the timing was off. The specs were still good.
What was done was to "play" around with the timing. The HEI unit was taken
out and moved just a "hair of a turn". The unit was placed back in.
Toggled the homemade switch to HEI unit, cranked the engine, and it STARTED
up. Blowing lots of blue smoke out the tailpipe. I'd fail emission 
inspection right there!

The old gas was still good enough to ignite and burn.

Now the oil pressure light stays on. I'm going to take the oil pump and
clean it up. I removed the left value cover (easier one to take off) and
found the wonderful oily deposits all over. I guess the pump might have 
this gunk. Another weekend on this thing. 

And the trans doesn't move, yet. Another problem.

Thanks

++++
Tony
++++
From: bozek@ecs.umass.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Manual Transaxles, Differentials, Oils, and T
Date: 29 Sep 92 14:15:06 GMT

In article <1992Sep23.122719.2573@mdcbbs.com>, jan@camhpp12.mdcbbs.com (Jan Vandenbrande) writes:
> In article <1992Sep21.135252.1@bronco.fnal.gov> colombo@bronco.fnal.gov writes:
>>In article <RRUSK.92Sep18152122@rcx1.ssd.csd.harris.com>, rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com (Bob R>>> On 18 Sep 92 18:00:32 GMT, bense@

>>> Of course, if it succeeds in teflon-coating your synchro's and reducing their
>>> friction, it'll stop them from syncho'ing.  Are you really that fond of
>>> double-clutching?

   Don't put it in the gear box. A friend pumped a few shots of the grease
into my '68 chrysler 4-speed. It did mave alot of miles on it. Started 
kicking out of 2nd on down shift.


>> So I remain a bit skeptical, and I'd trust a good synthetic oil ...


Good game plan
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dbowman@warp (Don A. Bowman)
Subject: Re: oxygen sensor
Organization: University of Waterloo
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 16:08:27 GMT

Marc Snitzer (aa650@cleveland.Freenet.Edu) wrote:
: 
: I have a Toyota '86 Van with fuel injection.  The maintenance
: schedule says to replace the oxygen sensor at 60K miles.  I now
: have over 70K and it's still running fine on the orig sensor.
: Any comments on if it should be replaced?  There "eng" light has
: not come on so I assume there are no codes in the diagnostic
: system.  Will it just start running rough or what?  Will the 
: sensor fail suddenly or should I expect a slow loss of drive-
: ability?

The oxygen sensor is a fine platinum thing in the exhaust. It degrades
slowly, and will not suddenly fail. I would replace it as it is important to
your emissions. It shouldn't be expensive at all.

--
Don Bowman                (519) 744-6154     dbowman@zeus.uwaterloo.ca
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks)
Subject: Re: Car storage
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 14:22:23 GMT

In article <bakc.148.717835847@giraffe.ru.ac.za> bakc@giraffe.ru.ac.za (MR KR COMAN) writes:
>In article <1a9pdrINN27l@bigboote.WPI.EDU> walkerr@yaya.WPI.EDU (Robert A Walker) writes:
>>From: walkerr@yaya.WPI.EDU (Robert A Walker)
>>Subject: Re: Car storage
>>Date: 29 Sep 1992 14:32:27 GMT
>>
>>>Why do you store the car on blocks?  What purpose does it serve?
>>
>>The reason you put it up on blocks is to save the tires.  A tire tha sits
>>around with a lot of weight on it tends to crack, with dry rot and all.  
>>The tires are much safer sitting by themselves.
>
>Yep, up on blocks only needed if you're not up to removing the wheels.
>>
Wait a minute. Think about that. Are you saying you _don't_ have to put it
up on blocks if you _are_ taking the wheels off? What is the car going to
sit on - the frame? No flames intended here - just sounds like you'll need
to put the car up on blocks irregardless - to either get the tires off the 
floor (if they stay on the car) or to support the car if you take the tires
off.

To further complicate the issue - where should one put the blocks? If you
put them on the axle/suspension, the springs will still be carrying the 
car's load unneccesarily, and contribute to long-term spring sagging. If you
put them against the frame, the suspension is fully extended. Then, the full
travel of the shocks will exposed to moisture and potential rust. Any
thoughts on this one? (Can't win, can we?) Personally, I vote for blocks on
the frame - shocks are cheaper than springs. But then the car's higher up in
the air, and could fall further if dislodged. I just can't decide what to do.
I must have the Ross Perot syndrome :-)
 
Ted Brooks
 ______________________________________________________________________
| Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are my own, and do not reflect    |
| those of my employer. Advice is free, but you get what you pay for.  |
|                               ________                               |
|                         _____|  1955  |_______                       |
|                        /      Chevrolet      /                       |
|                       /______  BelAir  _____/                        |
|                              |________|                              |
|______________________________________________________________________|
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mmr@asgserver.canberra.edu.au (Micheal Rainford-Watson)
Subject: Re: was DOHC on a V8 possible?
Organization: University of Canberra
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 92 00:50:05 GMT

In article <Sep25.083251.18918@engr.washington.edu> eliot@lanmola.engr.washington.edu (eliot) writes:
>In article <1992Sep23.191224.5583@cabot.balltown.cma.COM> welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty) writes:
>
One unique DOHC V8 must be the from the cezclovakia (you know where) made by
Tatra. It was a rear engine air cooled job. I see Tatra have announced the
release of a new sports car. I suppose that's what democracy gets you.

-- 
Micheal Rainford-Watson        _--_|\   E-Mail: mmr@asgserver.canberra.edu.au
Administrative Systems Group  /      \  Phone : +61 6 201 2397
University of Canberra        \_.--.*/  Mail  : PO Box 1 BELCONNEN ACT 2616
'Give a man a fish...'  -  Arrestive Development
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech