HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jessop@ljohub.enet.dec.com (Class Dinosauria)
Subject: Re: Need Advice on Hardy Fish
Reply-To: jessop@ljohub.enet.dec.com (Class Dinosauria)
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 00:40:54 GMT



	Goldfish are generally cool-water fish... but since his tank
	is heated, I would recommend some of the hardier labyrinth
	fish... like blue gouramis.  They can tolerate very poor water
	(low in Oxy., polluted), and they are fairly peaceful.  But,
	your idea of getting your brother the proper tools of the trade, and
	maybe some good aquarium manuals is much better than just buying
	hardier fish...

	Mike
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:6212 rec.aquaria:9503
From: assana@polkadot.Eng.Sun.COM (assana)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Fish Transportation
Date: 16 Dec 1992 01:40:50 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc., Mountain View, CA
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: polkadot

In article <1992Dec14.234446.16519@vax5.cit.cornell.edu> mdkj@vax5.cit.cornell.edu writes:

FYI:
I was talking to a co-worker about all this talk about fish transportation,
and he told me that he used to have an air-pump that would plug in the
cigarette lighter. This is a few years ago, so he didn't know if they still
exist or when one could buy one. 

Just thought I'd let you know...

--
         ^-^
        /o o\
       ===^===   assana@polkadot.eng.sun.com
          -   
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: farmwald@netcom.com (Mike Farmwald)
Subject: Re: Too many fish...  :(
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 23:48:13 GMT

I've sold >200 black mollies to local aquarium store. They want 1.5" or greater & pay
$0.25 - $0.50 each. They breed like mad, and this seems to be the only humane way
to keep my tank population down.
From: Ken.Wear@p0.f110.n363.z1.fidonet.org (Ken Wear)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: [F] How to get rid of snails?
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 92 18:21:00 PDT
Organization: FidoNet node 1:363/110.0 - The Bear's Den BBS, Orlando FL

 -=> Quoting Tom McCain to All <=-

 
 : > What is the best way to rid a tank of snails?  After a recent fish
 : > purchase, we have about 10+ small snails in a 20gal tank.  
 TM> 
 TM> : However, it is almost impossible to get rid of snails once they
 TM> : are established.
 TM> 
 TM> I used to think this way.
 TM> 
 TM> : out a bunch when you clean the tank, or buy a loach, who will eat
 TM> : snails (ask your petshop which specific type of loach to get; if
 TM> : they don't know, I can look it up since I have one but I can't
 TM> : remember its exact name).

Tom,

Also there is this stuff you could buy through your local pet store called
"Rid a Snail"  (I think or something along those lines).  Add this to your
water and it should do the trick.  From what I've heard it will not harm
the other fish.  BUT, I have not tried this myself since I only have 2
snails and so far no major problems!!!



... Catch the Blue Wave!
--  
        Ken Wear  -  via FidoNet Node: 1:363/42
             UUCP:  -  ...tarpit!tous!business!110.0!Ken.Wear
             ARPA:  -  Ken.Wear@p0.f110.n363.z1.fidonet.org
From: jdhl@troi.cc.rochester.edu (papa_sm00sh)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: how many fish is too many?
Date: 14 Dec 92 18:29:42 GMT
Organization: University of Rochester - Rochester, New York



right now in my 30 gal tank i have about 43 fish... 7 tetras, 4
swordtails, 2 kribensis, 3 gouarmies, 2 betas (she hides from him
well... lots of hiding places), 2 bumble bee catfish, 2 black mollies,
2 silver mollies, 3 gold barbs (which eat like ravenous pigs... they
easily consume food as quick as my largest Opaline Gouarmi- and are
sufficiently overweight to prove it), 3 chinese algae eaters, 1 orange
mollie, 3 sailfin mollies... maybe it's not 43... but that about
covers what i can remember...

since most of the fish are small and there really are only 6 "large"
fish in the tank (pink kissing gouarmi, 2 opaline gouarmies, 3 sailfin
mollies (1 male, 2 female)... is this too many?

what is a good ratio to keep?  it is a standard rectangular 30 gallon
aqaurium with about 28 gallons of water in it (accounting for the
rocks and plants)...

jason
From: jessop@ljohub.enet.dec.com (Class Dinosauria)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: pirhanas
Date: 18 Dec 92 00:05:04 GMT
Reply-To: jessop@ljohub.enet.dec.com (Class Dinosauria)
Distribution: na
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation


>Pacus are indeed related to piranha. They are also a food fish in South
>America. They can and often do hit 6 foot. They look axactly like
>piranha but no teeth. 

Yes, they are related, but they DO have teeth.  The teeth are more rounded
and molar-like than Piranha.  And Black Pacu's grow to a max of 3 feet long in the wild, Red pacus are even smaller.

Mike
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: dave@borland.com (Dave)
Subject: Re: OSCAR BREEDING BEHAVIOR?
Originator: dave@genghis.borland.com
Organization: Borland International
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 19:00:13 GMT

In article <3207.402.uupcb@the-matrix.com> janet.rawlins@the-matrix.com (Janet Rawlins)  writes:
>      I'm somewhat new to the world of oscars, and need some advice
>about oscar "body language".  My two oscars are now about 6 inches long
>and are installed in a 55-gal. tank which they love. I have no idea
>whether I have two males, two females, or a male/female pair. But one of
>the oscars does a really funny trick of vibrating its tail when the
>other fish is close to it. The other fish also occasionally acts mildly
>aggressive toward him/her, with the result that this fish will lay over
>on its side as some sort of placation.  Then later they sidle up
>together again and the tail vibrating starts again. Sometimes the
>dominant fish also vibrates his/her tail along with the other one.
>

I have seen similar behavior to the that described above with Oscars of
the same sex. I don't think that this behavior is a reliable method to
determine of you have a male/female pair.

It is very hard to sex Oscars. The only reliable ways that I have found is
wait for them to pair off and watch for the female and male, or to actually
remove the fish from the tank and look at the sex organs.

>Can anyone tell me what, if anything, this means?  Do I have a
>potentially mated pair?  How does one identify sex in an oscar?
>Thanks! (and just reply in here, since I don't normally check for
>E-mail).
>

At 6" long your Oscars are barely large enough to be sexually mature. Oscars
have to be at leats a year old and usually around 8" long to be sexually
mature. Even then you are not guaranteed to have a pair.

I currently have a large feamle Oscar, 10-12", and have been unsuccessful
at findind a compatible male for her. She is really bad tempered towards
the males and almost killed the last one because she was a little bigger
than it.

>Janet
>

- Dave
  Pacific Coast Cichlid Association
-- 
  Dave Draper
  dave@borland.com
  70031.2674@compuserve.com
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier)
Subject: Re: [M] MISSING blue knee crab
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 92 17:02:55 GMT

David Packer (davep@paladin.corp.sgi.com) wrote:
: Here's an interesting question,
: 
: I noticed the shell for my blue
: knee crab and picked it up. To my suprise IT WAS EMPTY!!. I can't
: see him anywhere in the tank (of course I can't move all the rock
: either) it's been 1 day now.....????????????? where did he go???
: any ideas. Is he dead maybe?? why would he abandon his shell??

Animals with exoskeletans must molt in order to grow.  If your
crab was healthy, he may simply have molted, and is now hiding
while his new shell hardens.  Or, he might have been attacked
and eaten while his new shell was still soft.  I'm not very
familiar with marine aquaria, so I do not know if your crab
might simply have died, and scavengers ate all of the insides
out, but it seems unlikely.
--
"They thought to use and shame me but I win out by nature, because a true
freak cannot be made.  A true freak must be born." - K. Dunn, _Geek Love_

Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: jan@bagend.uucp (Jan Isley)
Subject: Re: Fish Transportation
Organization: This space for rent.
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 23:53:27 GMT

I transport fish all the time.  I use coleman coolers, you know,
ice chests.  The larger thermal mass and insulation helps keep the
temperature stable and when the lid is closed, it is dark inside.
Both are essential to a less stressful fish transit.

It is *very* important that tanks be stressed as little as possible
too.  Glass is fluid... it moves.  And silicon does not last forever.
I would totally empty the tank and treat it as gently as I treat the
fish.  Make sure it is very evenly supported during transit, etc...
Otherwise you may find that your tank holds less water than it used
to. :(  It may leak anyway.  Just emptying a tank changes the stress
on it a lot.

You can buy 10 gallon tanks around here for $10.  A spare tank or
two might be a better solution to your problem.

Good luck.  Two hours is nothing compared to the trips most fish
take on their way to the distributer/dealer.
-- 
   Be a light unto yourself    || Jan Isley ...!gatech!bagend!jan
Siddhartha Gautama, the Buddha || jan@bagend.uucp (404)434-1335
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: jjd1@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (james.j.dutton)
Subject: Re: Fish Transportation
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 19:41:58 GMT

In article <Bz7x1s.21z@mentor.cc.purdue.edu> haji@sage.cc.purdue.edu (Moon) writes:
>I have three fish (one goldfish and two zebra danios) that I need to take 
>home for the holidays.  I would rather not move them but since there would 
>be no one here to take care of them, I can't leave them here for three weeks.
>I am planning on putting them and their water into a few clear 1-gallon
>jugs (with the lids off of course and lots of air in the jug) and transporting
>the empty or near-empty tanks separately.  I figured that the small openings
>of the jugs would prevent much water or fish sloshing out as opposed to 
>leaving them in their tanks and moving them that way.  
>
>It's only a two-hour drive but I *know* this will put a lot of stress on the
>fish and that it's not that good of an idea to begin with.  Does anyone have 
>any suggestions on how to make it less stressful for my fish and if this setup
>is a good idea?
>
>The fish and I thank you in advance!
>
>Moon                    :: "Baby talk??  That's not a phrase!"
>haji@sage.cc.purdue.edu :: "Oh, and 'Babyfishmouth' is sweeping the nation?!"

Your setup will be fine for the goldfish. The zebra's you might want to put
in a baggie with as much air as possible and tie off the baggie. This
will help prevent drastic change in temp. Use a styrofoam cooler.
Zebra are very cheap but if you don't want to replace them be concerned
about rapid temp flucuations. The goldfish will make it fine.
 
On an unrelated note. To potential betta breeders. There's an easy method.
Cheap too.
 
Get two goldfish bowls. Put male in one. Choke this bowl with hornwort.
Put female in the other. Push bowels together. Feed live brine. Female
will plump like a ball park frank. Male will build fantabulous bubblenest.
When female is ready to breed her stripes will change from horizontal
When the female is ready to breed her horizontal stripes will change
 
burrow away from the male for breathers. After two days take female out
being carefull to not destroy bubble nest. Watch the male clean the babies
and spit them back in the nest. You will want to feed the newly hatched
fish green pond water followed by fresh hatched brine shrimp.
Enjoy.
================================================================================
 Sesquipedalian's 'R' Us. ZX-10. DoD#564. There ain't no more.
================================================================================
From: jdhl@troi.cc.rochester.edu (papa_sm00sh)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: 100%water changes...
Date: 14 Dec 92 18:23:23 GMT
Organization: University of Rochester - Rochester, New York



I know it was a silly/stupid thing to do... but...

I bought some slat from the pet store that required me to put some
wtare into the container I boutght the slat in and shake until the
orange silution is evenly colored... (that way morons will have all of
the salt disolved before they add it to the water (not that I have
found this to be a problem since since then I have been using salt
that i add staright to the water and it readily dissolves in less than
5 minutes.)) this did clear up the slime on my mollies, hoever it also
permanently (permanantly/permenantly?) changed the water from clear to
a subtle orange... weekly 33% water changes had little effect... so i
put the fish in cut off milk jugs (cleaned, of course) and siphoned
all of the water off and rinsed all 98% of the gravel (some was left
at the bottom), refilled the tank, let the temperature set properly,
added the "stress coat" and "aqua clear" and salt, etc. and re added
my fish... I had no casualties... but I am also assuming I have die
hard fish... (although i am sure my tetras enjoyed the cleaner
water...) 

just thought i tell you all a story...

jason
From: booth@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (George Booth)
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 19:38:51 GMT
Subject: Re: Are W/D trickle filters worth it?
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria

In rec.aquaria, 01mbmccabe@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu writes:

 Where does one get mechanical filtration when using a trickle W/D filter?  Does
 one have to spent the exhorbitant amount of money for this thing, and STILL
 have to spen more money for a Whisper power filter too?!?  And whay, exactly,
 does everyone have to spend the bucks/go through the hassle to get a W/D filter
 anyway?  Surely theres a better way...no?

    			-Matt

The prefilter acts as the mechanical filter, trapping detritus.  If you 
use a drip tray, there is usually a second filter pad over that for added
protection. 

Since the prefilter clogs quickly, it must be changed once a week.  This
forces you to remove the detritus before it has a chance to decompose
and add extra nitrates to the water.  Most canister filters allow you
to go much longer bewteen cleanings and will begin to act as a source
of nitrates unless you are very diligent (unlike 99% of us :-). 

Wet/dry filters (more properly, trickle filters) act as excellent 
biological filters and keep the oxygen levels very near saturation.  They
are inherently "cleaner" than UGF or canister filters.  Whether or not 
there is a "better" way depends on your personal situation.  Personally,
I think they are the best way to go for freshwater systems.  I find they
are much less "hassle" in terms of maintenance than anything else.  We
have Eheim canisters on three of our tanks and they are a pain in the
butt to clean.  So we don't clean then as often as we should.  

------
George
From: hoff@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu (Wildfire)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Need Advice on Hardy Fish
Date: 17 Dec 92 00:52:43 GMT
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana

This Christmas, I am interested in getting my younger brother some 
items for his aquarium.  I'm definately getting a siphon, since he
never cleans it and last time he did I think he used a plastic cup
for the water change.  I'm also probably getting him a nitrates kit, 
since from what I hear, his tank crashed and the only survivors are
a pair of gold fish.  For his birthday, which is a week or two 
after Christmas (if his water is alright) I'd like to get him some 
fish.  What are good type of hardy fish that would get along with 2
1 1/2" goldfish?  I'd like REALLY hardy ones, since even though I'm 
getting him a syphon and other misc. cleaning supplies, I don't know how
often he'll use them.  I'd also like to get him this stuff cuz if I
don't, the fish will really suffer.  Last time I was home, he had been
"cleaning" out his tank.  There was about four inches of water left
in the tank, and it was left like that for a few days.....poor fish!
I figure that the easier I make it to clean his tank, the more often
he'll do it, and do it right.   Any suggestions?  The tank is 
freshwater, 20 gal, with a heater.  Also, if you can think of anything
else that will help in getting him to "clean" the tank correctly, I'll
welcome those suggestions, too......

-Lisa
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:6185 rec.aquaria:9461 sci.aquaria:1771
From: rwebster@neumann.une.edu.au (ROB W ...)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
Subject: beginning marine tank-advice sort (guest post)
Date: 15 Dec 92 09:13:22 GMT
Followup-To: alt.aquaria

A friend of mine was so kind as to let me post this letter
via his account.....hi my name is Sue Ables (and I'm in Australia)

I'm considering setting up a marine tank. I have a 24x20x20 inch
tank (around 150 liters/39 gal, please correct me if I'm wrong)
and thinking of using an UGF along with a canister filter which
does 575 liters/hour. 

Should I use a wet/dry or bio filters instead or will the above
filtation do, also should I use sand or shell/coral chips as the 
bedding???

I'm thinking of using anemones and living rock to help in the
start up process (of course when the water is ready for them)
and then some damselfish, as they are supposedly hardy little 
buggers. In the end I would like to have seahourses and starfish
as well as other marine fish. How many fish can I keep in this
size tank???

I have had experiance with tropical fish tank but I am pretty
in the dark when it comes to marine tanks....So any advice/comments
are greatly welcome. You can contact me by writting to this 
news group or e-mail me via
                           rwebster@neumann.une.au.edu

THANKS IN ADVANCE!!!!!!

SUE
~~~
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:6139 rec.aquaria:9401
From: 01mbmccabe@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: (F) HELP with setting up 180G tank
Date: 11 Dec 92 22:00:07 GMT
Followup-To: alt.aquaria
Organization: Ball State University, Muncie, In - Univ. Computing Svc's

In article <724096016@kao.cs.duke.edu>, kao@duke.cs.duke.edu (Ming Kao) writes:
> I am about to buy a 180G tank for fresh water fish. I would
> appreciate helps with the following questions.
> 
> 1. Is UGF suitable for a tank of this size? My local fish stores
> do not seem to use UGFs in their large tanks?

It'll still work, and probably work fantastically if you get a good amount of
water flow going, but that's a lot of gravel to be vacuuming.  The amount of
vacuuming is probably a key reason for people not using it in their show tanks
in the store.

> 2. If you recommend UGF, where do I buy one of this size?

Probably have to construct one of some smaller UGF's put together.  Maybe 6
10gallon plates turned sideways with spaces in the side to allow water flow
between them (through them?)....You know what I mean?

				-Matt
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: dave@borland.com (Dave)
Subject: Re: OSCAR BREEDING BEHAVI
Originator: dave@genghis.borland.com
Organization: Borland International
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1992 00:37:54 GMT

In article <3310.402.uupcb@the-matrix.com> janet.rawlins@the-matrix.com (Janet Rawlins)  writes:
>-> I have seen similar behavior to the that described above with Oscars
>-> of the same sex. I don't think that this behavior is a reliable
>-> method to determine of you have a male/female pair.
>
>Well, it sounds from the above like I may have two of the same sex.  Oh
>well, another possible moneymaking idea bites the dust.... <G>
>  Tell me, if they aren't fighting yet, does this mean my two oscars
>will possibly live peacefully together as adults?  Or will I need to
>trade one in and just end up with one oscar in my tank?
>

If they aren't fighting chances are they will be fine. If you introduce
any new Oscars or other aggresive fish you might have problems. Larger
more aggresive fish tend to establish a pecking order and this can be
upset when new fish are introduced.

>-> - Dave
>-> Pacific Coast Cichlid Association
>
>What all do you do in a Cichlid Assoc.?  Is it a way of getting more
>information and experience quickly?  Do you know if there's a cichlid
>group of some sort in Birmingham Alabama?
>
>Janet
>       

The PCCA and ACA (American Cichlig Association) are clubs that deal
with Cichlids. In the PCCA we have monthly newsletter that contains
articles on different Cichlids and their behavior/breeding etc.

We have monthly meetings where we have speakers present some kind of
program. Usually videos or slides. We also auction off all kinds of
fish that different club members and breeders bring in. We have raffles
for tanks and accessories.

Of course there is lots of food and a fair amount of beer/wine is consumed
by some individuals.

I don't know if there are any Cichlid or aquarium organizations in
Birmingham. I can ask around and see.

- Dave
  Pacific Coast Cichlid Association
  Cichlasoma Study Group

-- 
  Dave Draper
  dave@borland.com
  70031.2674@compuserve.com
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: dwilliam@pizza.ess.harris.com (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: Fish Transportation
Organization: Harris Corporation - ISD
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 23:07:56 GMT

In <Bz7x1s.21z@mentor.cc.purdue.edu> haji@sage.cc.purdue.edu (Moon) writes:

[description of fish and vacation deleted]

>I am planning on putting them and their water into a few clear 1-gallon
>jugs (with the lids off of course and lots of air in the jug) and transporting
>the empty or near-empty tanks separately.  I figured that the small openings
>of the jugs would prevent much water or fish sloshing out as opposed to 
>leaving them in their tanks and moving them that way.  

>It's only a two-hour drive but I *know* this will put a lot of stress on the
>fish and that it's not that good of an idea to begin with.  Does anyone have 
>any suggestions on how to make it less stressful for my fish and if this setup
>is a good idea?

>The fish and I thank you in advance!

   Well, for what it's worth: Here's my experience.  I moved from South
Carolina to Florida about eight months ago, and did your sort of fish 
transport.  I went down to the grocery store and begged two big gallon
pickle jars.  Into one jar went my biggest bala shark (about 3.5" body),
a zebra dano, and a corey catfish.  Into the other jar went the other
two sharks (at around 3" body), the other two danos, and the other corey
catfish.  I then stuffed as many plants as I could into the top of the 
jars, (Water sprite (I think) - it mostly floats.) and screwed the lids
on.

   The trip down to Melbourne took around ten hours total.  Whenever I
stopped to eat (about every four hours or so) I blew air through an 
airstone into each jar for about 5 minutes.  (or untill I ran out of
breath, whichever came first  (huff, puff...))  The fish arived nice
and healthy, with coloration looking quite good, which is much less
than I can claim for most of my fish delivered in bags from the
fishstores.  Melbourne water turned out to be really crappy, and it
took a ton of effort to match the water in the jars to the tank.  As 
a matter of fact, I goofed and killed the fish from one jar when I didn't
have the pH matched yet.  *sigh*.  The other jar survived just fine,
thanks.  I've still got both corey cats, but I recently sold the
bala sharks (they were getting super-nervous as they got bigger.)  The
danos suffered from a tank crash (pH dropped, lost bacteria, the nitrates
soared... ) about two months later, but they were fine up to then.

   I attribute the success to having the plants in the jar.  Maybe I'm
just being ridiculous there, but it worked for me!

--
Dave Williams                                   | "What time is it?" "9:00AM"
 dwilliam@jabba.ess.harris.com                  | "What day?"        "Monday"
  "Huh?  What?  Could you repeat the question?" | "Go away.  Try me Tuesday"
    <mumble mumble> opinions <mumble mumble> mine <mumble mumble mumble>
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria