HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: thorn@phoenix.radonc.unc.edu (Jesse Thorn)
Subject: Re: Making 1/35th-scale rifle straps
Organization: Radiation Oncology, NCMH/UNC, Chapel Hill, NC
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 14:53:11 GMT

In article <C0Fuoz.4MA@wilber.rich.nt.com> zing@wilber.rich.nt.com (Leon Z. Lee) writes:
>Does anyone have any ideas of making rifle and machine gun straps for
>1/35th scale combat figures.  I was thinking of cutting strips of
>masking tape and then painting them, but if there is a better method of
>making these straps..I would be most appreciative for the info.


Use thin strips of lead foil. This is more flexible and easier to form
than masking tape. I use the buckles from various 1/35th scale afv
photoetch detail sets that include such things for vehicle strap tie
downs. The Verlinden Sherman detail sheet has a bunch. Use stuporglue
to glue it all together. There was an article in FSM within the last
few years that covered this topic. Check your old issues.


--Jesse
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: mcdermot@itd.nrl.navy.mil (John McDermott,119,7673770,)
Subject: Re: Ruined Model?
Reply-To: mcdermot@itd.nrl.navy.mil
Organization: Naval Research Lab, Washington, DC
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 19:09:22 GMT

I have removed enamel paint from polystyrene models by rubbing it off with
mineral spirits (paint thinner) and a soft cloth. If you used acrylic paint
I don't know what to tell you...

John McDermott


Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: rlw@atlanta.dg.com (Richard Wright)
Subject: Re: ballast - what to use?
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 93 16:17:22 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Data General Corp. ASSD, Atlanta, GA

In article <ALAVIGNE.93Jan6145616@bmerh930.bnr.ca>, alavigne@bmerh930.bnr.ca (Andrew Lavigne) writes:
|> 
|> Does anyone have good tips on what kind of ballast to use in models (eg-
|> in the nose of an airplane fuselage)? I know about lead;is there anything
|> else available as well?

Two suggestions: 

1) Pour a bunch of B-B's (available at most any sporting goods store
   or gun shop) into the nose and then drop a glob of epoxy glue on it
   to hold it in place.

2) Press a piece of heavy kitchen-type aluminum foil into the inside
   of the nose to get the shape. Carefully remove the foil and place it
   in some sort of heat-resistant support (modelling clay works OK but
   it melts a little; I'm about to try sand.) Now fire up your trusty
   soldering iron and start dripping molten solder into the aluminum
   'mold'. When you have filled it up, let it cool (!) and ... voila!
   A custom molded solid metal weight for your model. Just superglue
   it into place. 

				Enjoy,
				Richard.


-- 
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------*
* "Listen, three eyes," he said, "don't you try to outweird me, I get   *
*  stranger things than you free with my breakfast cereal."             *
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------*
* Richard L. Wright, Jr             * Disclaimer:                       *
* Data General Corporation          *  The views expressed here are the *
* System Evaluation and Performance *  One True Way to Enlightenment.   *
*   Analysis Center (SEPAC)         *  Everyone shares my views, they   *
* Atlanta, Georgia, USA  30319      *  just don't realize it yet.       *
* (404) 705-2642                    *      Riiiiiight.                  *
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------*
From: deeds@vulcan1.edsg.hac.com ( Dean Deeds)
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: Re: Filing and Organizing Photo Collections
Date: 11 Jan 93 15:58:47 GMT
Reply-To: deeds@vulcan1.UUCP ( Dean Deeds)
Organization: Hughes Aircraft Co., El Segundo, CA

In article <3276@devnull.mpd.tandem.com> bruceb@mpd.tandem.com (Bruce Burden) writes:
>In article <C0Hz6L.H8n@da_vinci.it.uswc.uswest.com> rray@lookout.it.uswc.uswest.com (Randy J. Ray) writes:
>>How do you folks who photograph detail shots on static-display aircraft (or
>>armor, for that matter) catalog and file those photos? As I look over my
>>albums of photos, I realise that I have no idea what I have, and where the
>>negatives are.
>
>
>	Contact the folks at Light Impressions. They market a whole line
>    of archival quality products, including several film storage systems.
>    They have an 800 number and advertise in several photographic mags.
>    Ask for their archival products catalog. If you can't find their
>    number, contact me and I will e-mail it to you.

It's Light Impressions, 439 Monroe Avenue, P. O. Box 940, Rochester, NY
14603-0940.  Orders (800) 828-6216, customer service (800) 828-9859.
I also recommend them.  I use their photo filing system, which provides
sleeves for negatives, envelopes for prints, and organization to associate
them and find a particular subject easily.

I also recommend their photo marking pens, which come in red or black
and cost two-dollars-and-something for two.  These will write on the
backs of prints (and lots of other handy places) without smudging.

-- Dean Deeds
	deeds@vulcan1.edsg.hac.com
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: rray@lookout.it.uswc.uswest.com (Randy J. Ray)
Subject: Su-24 Fencer now available!
Organization: US WEST Communications, Inc. -- Denver, CO
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 22:05:00 GMT

DML's Su-24 Fencer C in 1/72 scale is finially on the shelves. I couldn't
afford to buy one (I had already dropped about $60 on books), but it looked
very nice and crisp. Retailing somewhere around $22. This is the first
injection kit available. The only other kit of this aircraft available is a
crude vac-form by Gerald Elliot Vac-u-Forms.

Randy
-- 
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Randy J. Ray -- U S WEST IT/CSD                 rray@lookout.it.uswc.uswest.com
                                                           Phone: (303)595-2852
"It's not denial. I'm just very selective about the reality I accept." --Calvin
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
From: kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM (John Kopf,D,6305)
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: Re: Paint age
Date: 8 Jan 93 19:45:00 GMT
Reply-To: kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems

>Low Cost Paint Mixer - your pants pocket. Before I airbrush paint I
>simply carry the containers around with me in my pants pockets for a
>day or two. This does a nice job of mixing even the oldest paint. And
>it is free! 

many years ago I got a tube of BBs.  Every time I open a new bottle of paint, I drop
a couple of BBs into it.  They agitate the paint much quicker than simple shaking
(like the ball in a spray can).

JK
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale,rec.aviation.military
From: rlw@atlanta.dg.com (Richard Wright)
Subject: Re: Filing and Organizing Photo Collections
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 93 14:23:41 GMT
Organization: Data General Corp. ASSD, Atlanta, GA

In article <C0Hz6L.H8n@da_vinci.it.uswc.uswest.com>, rray@lookout.it.uswc.uswest.com (Randy J. Ray) writes:
|> How do you folks who photograph detail shots on static-display aircraft (or
|> armor, for that matter) catalog and file those photos? As I look over my
|> albums of photos, I realise that I have no idea what I have, and where the
|> negatives are. I can flip through an album to see what I have, but if 
|> someone in my local club wants prints of my photos, I can't generally
|> produce the negatives. 

Seems like there are two problems to solve:
 1 - Inventory of photos by subject
 2 - Locating negatives for a given photo

A database would work well for the first, in my opinion. For the second
you might check with a local camera shop for some sort of filing system.
I seem to remember seeing some plastic (or some sort of material) pages
that held one negative strip and the prints from it all on the same sheet.
That would probably solve your second problem and the pages could be
indexed for reference in the database for quickly locating a particular
print (and it's negative). If you don't have a good camera shop locally
then you could probably find something suitable in the advertisements of
a photography magazine. Have fun and let us know what you end up doing
and how well it works! 

					Richard

-- 
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------*
* "Listen, three eyes," he said, "don't you try to outweird me, I get   *
*  stranger things than you free with my breakfast cereal."             *
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------*
* Richard L. Wright, Jr             * Disclaimer:                       *
* Data General Corporation          *  The views expressed here are the *
* System Evaluation and Performance *  One True Way to Enlightenment.   *
*   Analysis Center (SEPAC)         *  Everyone shares my views, they   *
* Atlanta, Georgia, USA  30319      *  just don't realize it yet.       *
* (404) 705-2642                    *      Riiiiiight.                  *
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------*

Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: brewers@camelot.bradley.edu (James Kimble)
Subject: Catalogs 'n' Magazines
Organization: Bradley University
Distribution: rec.models.scale
Date: 12 Jan 93 21:54:05 GMT

Hello all.  I have a few questions from an amature modeler.  First of all,
I would be interested in finding a magazine or two with good kits out, 
tips, etc.  Also, I would like to have some addresses for cagalogs from
companies like Revell, Monogram, etc.  Also, once I receive a few 
catalogs, does anyone out there have any idea if there are any kits of
the Saturn SC2.  I would like to do one of these for my mom for Mother's Day
since she just bought one.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.  Either
reply here or e-mail me.  Thanks.

Jim
brewers@camelot.bradley.edu
Peoria, IL

Newsgroups: rec.models.scale,alt.models
From: dan@cubmol.bio.columbia.edu (Daniel Zabetakis)
Subject: Re: group propagation
Organization: Columbia University, Dept. of Biological Sciences.
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 15:40:58 GMT

In article <urf.726133617@sw2001> urf@icl.se (Urban F) writes:
>We still have the same problem: rec.models.scale doesn't seem
>to get to all the sites it should:
>
>1317   7900   219   51%     -       -      -     -   0.5%  rec.models.scale 

    This is pretty low for a 'real' group. Try posting this complaint to
news.groups, and see if there is any comment. Not every site will get a
new group, but certainly more than 50% should get it.
   Wait another month, and if the stats don't go up, start complaining
loudly. Post to rec.models.* and suggest that anyone not getting r.m.s to
complaint to thier sysadmin if they want it.

   Remember that these stats are not authoritative. I guess they are a fairly
good guide, but could be wildly inaccurate.

DanZ


-- 
This article is for entertainment purposes only. Any facts, opinions,
narratives or ideas contained herein are not necessarily true, and do
not necessarily represent the views of any particular person.  

Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: rray@lookout.it.uswc.uswest.com (Randy J. Ray)
Subject: Re: Making 1/35th-scale rifle straps
Organization: US WEST Communications, Inc. -- Denver, CO
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 22:09:39 GMT

In article <1993Jan7.164151.18366@rayssd.ssd.ray.com>, m1b@rayssd.ssd.ray.com (Barone) writes:
> In article <C0Fuoz.4MA@wilber.rich.nt.com> zing@wilber.rich.nt.com (Leon Z. Lee)
> writes:
> > Does anyone have any ideas of making rifle and machine gun straps for
> > 1/35th scale combat figures.  I was thinking of cutting strips of
> > masking tape and then painting them, but if there is a better method of
> > making these straps..I would be most appreciative for the info.
> 
> 	I don't know if it's better, but I merely use paper.  It's
> malleable to form curves and paints well.  It's easy to cut as well.
> Try to avoid fibrous paper since little "hairs" will be noticeable.
> 

This will sound very weird, but trust me, I've done it: I use the ultra-thin
foil that pop-tarts are wrapped in. I eat those things for breakfast on my
way out the door, and save the bags. I cut off the sealed part, to get a sheet
roughly 6" by 5" of very thin foil. It takes airbrushed paint well, though I
have not tried to imprint a fabric pattern on it. I also use it for seat belts
on 1/72 scale aircraft.

Randy
-- 
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Randy J. Ray -- U S WEST IT/CSD                 rray@lookout.it.uswc.uswest.com
                                                           Phone: (303)595-2852
"It's not denial. I'm just very selective about the reality I accept." --Calvin
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: alavigne@bmerh930.bnr.ca (Andrew Lavigne)
Subject: ballast - what to use?
Organization: Bell Northern Research
Distribution: na
Date: 6 Jan 93 14:56:16


Does anyone have good tips on what kind of ballast to use in models (eg-
in the nose of an airplane fuselage)?   I know about lead;  is there anything
else available as well?

Any hints appreciated...

Andrew
alavigne@bnr.ca
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: hack@arabia.uucp (Edmund Hack)
Subject: Bandai kits - worth anything?
Organization: Lockheed ESC, Houston
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 17:13:00 GMT

I have stumbled upon a box of old Bandai armor kits that I bought in the
70s.  Are they worth anything special to collectors?  They are of German
WWII armor, infantry and support equipment in 1/72 scale.  All but a few
are unopened, still in shrink wrap.  The decals may well be shot,
however as they were stored in my parent's attic for about 15 years.

-- 
Edmund Hack - Lockheed Engineering & Sciences Co. - Houston, TX
hack@aio.jsc.nasa.gov - I speak only for myself, unless blah, blah..
"You know, I think we're all Bozos on this bus."
"Detail Dress Circuits" "Belt: Above A, Below B" "Close B ClothesMode"
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: mdm@bnr.ca (Diane MacMartin)
Subject: What is obeche (wood)?
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Ottawa
Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1993 00:44:12 GMT

I'm curious.  I saw obeche wood as material for miniature furniture
in a British publication.  Is there a North American equivalent?

-- 
Diane MacMartin       Bell-Northern Research, Ltd     Ottawa, Canada
mdm@bnr.ca            Any opinions are my own and do not represent BNR.
=========>> If this is printed on paper, please recycle it <<==========

Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: tcv@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com (Tim C. Vittetoe)
Subject: Xmas Light Bulb Flasher Circuit Design Wanted
Organization: Lockheed Missiles and Space Co.
Distribution: usa
Date: Sat, 9 Jan 93 03:21:45 GMT


I am interested in finding a ciruit design or board that will 
drive small indoor Xmas bulbs (1.5V) in sequence (flasher ciruit), 
using battery power.  I already have a circuit for LEDs, which 
can't handle the higher current load.  I'll be installing this
circuit in a model of the Jupiter II spaceship (Lost in Space).

Thanks in advance,

Tim
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: jeybbu@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Subject: Re: Ruined Model?
Reply-To: jeybbu@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 03:11:33 GMT

To the ruined 59 'vette paint job.  The best way to really remove paint tht I have found is to soak the item in BRAKE FLUID.  Don't ask why, but given the
responses to the PETE querries there ought to be some sharp chemists who know, but it does work.  A few days in my tupperware soaker and enamel, laquer,
acrilics come right off.  A tooth brush gets in the little spots, a soap and 
water wash, and you are like a fresh from the box model...

Good luck.

Julian Yudelson IPMS 4287
Organization: University of Illinois at Chicago
Date: Tuesday, 5 Jan 1993 13:36:04 CST
From: ALAN C. FUSCO, Ph.D. <U38339@uicvm.uic.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: Airbrush Compressor WANTED

Does anyone have a used airbrush compressor for sale??? Buying canned air
is getting expensive, but I really don't have 100-200 dollars to spend on
a compressor.

Alan
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: coirier@lerc.nasa.gov (Bill Coirier)
Subject: Re: Acrylic paint: Opinions
Reply-To: coirier@lerc.nasa.gov
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center, Cleveland, OH
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 12:58:13 GMT

In article <1993Jan4.184957.2419@lmt.mn.org>, ChazL@county.lmt.mn.org (Chaz Larson) writes:
> In article <1i6v1dINN4db@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>, aq479@cleveland.Freenet.Edu 
> (Paul E. Sincaglia) writes:
> > In a previous post I asked about Tetors ne Model Master Acrylic
> > line.  As I prefer using the water based paints, I would really
> > like an assessment of all acrylic paints suitable for modeling
> > rom all of you folks.
> > 
> > Which of the paints are the best and the worst and for what 
> > reasons......etc.
> > 
> > Please post the replies, they will probably shed allot of light
> > for all of the modelers who read this board.
> 

i recently bought some polly-s paints to paint my latest project 
(a ju-88-g, in quarter scale) and i'm curious to hear how most people
spray it.  i'm going to follow the recommended paint/thinner ratio (3/2),
but i've heard horror stories about fingerprints, paint lifting . . .
it seems that polly-s has a lot of colors that are difficult to get.

any advice?  this is my first foray away from testors model master (enamel).

(btw, i use a paasche h-1 single action airbrush)

-- 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
William Coirier                            voice: 216-433-5764
NASA Lewis Research Center                 email: coirier@marmite.lerc.nasa.gov 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
"To do is to be."     - Kant
"To be is to do."     - Anonymous
"Yabba Dabba Do."     - Fred Flintstone


Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: piz@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (G G ZIPFEL)
Subject: Another question (or two) from the 59 vette guy...
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 15:57:41 GMT



	First off, thanks for the suggestions about removing the paint.
	I picked up some dot 3 brake fluid, gave it a soak, and now
	it's a clean as a cruise ship. So now to new questions:

	1) Will the texture of the paint on the body be better
	if I pick up an air brush system? Can I use the air brush
	to paint the indented panels on the side of the vette?


	2) Has anyone used the buffing/polishing kits that I read about
	in last months "Scale Auto" Magazine? The results looked
	great, but it seemed like quite a bit of work.

	3) Do you guys do more than one model in parallel? ie/ while
	paint is drying on one, paint another part of a second (or third)
	model? I have a few I'd like to finish, but it takes so long
	when I have to wait overnight after painting a small part...

-- 
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Zip   Steelers in 92!          | Illinois Basketball: More three point 
      Bubby's Back!!!!         | shooters than you can shake a stick at!
"I didn't lose, the Team lost" - Coach
From: cprvzn@vaxa.hofstra.edu (Vincent Nastasi)
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: Re: airbrushes
Date: 12 Jan 93 17:04:42 EST

In article <1993Jan12.093236.1292@cm.cf.ac.uk>, Simon.N.Smith@cm.cf.ac.uk 
(Simon N Smith) writes:
> 
> does anyone have any good recommendations for a middle of the range airbrush?
> I'm into collecting Star Wars and Star Trek models, so I have to paint large
> areas in greys with a good finish.  I'm not happy with brushing, and I've been
> thinking of investing in an airbrush for some time.  So what I'm after is
> something that's not too expensive, but does the job well.  I'm not going to
> be using it for any detailed work, just painting large expanses.

I've been using my Paasch VL airbrush for about one-year and find it perfect
for modeling.  It is a double action airbrush which means that the trigger
controls both the airflow as well as the amount of paint to be sprayed.
For the beginner, this may seem a bit difficult at first & practicing
on an old model is definitely recommended.  However, a double-action
airbrush allows for much greater control and versatility especially
with military models painted in 3-color camoflouge.  I bought mine
December 1991 from a local art supply store for $60.  I used canned
air for a while, but then invested in a Campbell-Hausfield 3/4
horsepower air compressor with a 7.5 gallon tank (~$200 - probably
the biggest investment you'll ever make in modeling).  This combination
suits my needs perfectly.

Good Luck!
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: kuryakin@bcstec.ca.boeing.com (Rick Pavek)
Subject: Bargain models
Organization: Boeing Computer Services
Distribution: boeing
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 23:47:02 GMT

For those of you lucky enough to live near a Fred Meyers store, there is
a sale going on for 40% off all models with a coupon from the sunday
paper (1/10/93).  Sale goes on thru Saturday.  

If you don't have a coupon, they had a stack of them in the model area
in the store I went to in Redmond, WA.  Lots of good kits.


-- 
Rick Pavek                       | Never ask a droid to outdo its program.
kuryakin@bcstec.ca.boeing.com    |           
Seattle, WA                      |   It wastes your time
                                 |          and annoys the droid.
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: Re: ftp site jdb.psu.edu
From: <JDB6@psuvm.psu.edu>
Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1993 08:39:27 EST
Organization: Penn State University

Well, since that's my PC, I might as well do it. :-)
Login as "trains" with password "k4s" and you should find yourself in
c:\pub\graphics\trains
Yes, this is a PC running MS/DOS, so please treat it kindly.
It is only up when I'm not using it (5:30PM - 8:30AM Eastern and
lunch/weekends/whatever as appropriate) so if it does not respond
today, try again tomorrow.

Note that there are also files on wuarchive.wustl.edu in /trains
or some such directory. These files are sorted nicely by type.
(Usual anonymous login there.)

Hope this helps.

John Balogh, Penn State Model Railroad Club, Electrical Crew, JDB@ECL.PSU.EDU
From: myers@hplred.HPL.HP.COM (Tom R. Myers)
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 21:03:53 GMT
Subject: Re: Request: Viewing sites
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories, Palo Alto, CA
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad

The Walnet Creek MRR club has an enormous layout.
Check Model Railroader for regular show schedules.

trm

Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: dave@auspost.com.au (Dave Cole)
Subject: Loco wobbles on track.
Organization: /home/grunge/dave/.organization
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 00:09:15 GMT

I just recently bought a Bachmann (sp?) locomotive.  The wheels seem
to be slightly too narrow for the track - this is just annoying when
on normal track - but when going through turnouts at low speeds it
stops at the frog.  If I push the loco from the side towards the
outside of the turnout it makes contact again and continues.

My question is; is there any way to make the wheels match the guage of
the track?

Thanks in advance - Dave
From: craig@kralizec.zeta.org.au (Craig Dewick)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: new command control system ads
Date: 25 Dec 1992 08:58:33 +1100
Organization: Kralizec Dialup Unix Sydney: +61-2-837-1183 V.42bis
NNTP-Posting-Host: kralizec.zeta.org.au
Keywords: Lenz


In the December 1992 issue of RMC (hey! It's arrived in Australia BEFORE the
end of the issue month! How amazing), on page 113, is an advertisement for the
range of multi-train control products being built by Lenz that, I believe, are
designed to use the new multi-train control system standard being developed by
various groups. Stan Ames seem to post regularly to this newsgroup about it.

Has anyone experimented with any of this stuff yet?
-- 
 Craig Dewick, Station Master, Possum Power Tank BBS. +612-544-1060 (ringback).
    Send electronic mail to craig@kralizec.zeta.org.au, flames to /dev/null.
                      - Railway Preservation Industries -
          Supporting the Preservation of Australia's Railway Heritage
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad