HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Anyone ever use Watco finishes?
Date: 18 Dec 92 01:55:20 GMT
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Distribution: na
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated

Ralph D Clifford writes
> After allowing it 3 days to fully dry, I applied a furniture
> paste wax.

Just a small nit. Although 3 days is probably enough drying time for 
applying wax, it isn't enough for the oil to fully dry.

For instance, Watco says it takes about a month for the finish to dry 
enough to be safe to chew on. They used the term "full polymerization,"
whatever that means. As a Fine Woodworking article stated, it's not
the finish to use on those toys being completed the night before Xmas.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com

PS: Some finishes, like Minwax Antique Oil, are never baby-safe.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: Opinions on various Table Saws
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 19:47:03 GMT

Chris Lewis writes
> ... the Powermatic
> Artisans.  They have saws in the $1000-1600CDN range that compare
> very favourably with the Unisaw or other higher-end Deltas.

Powermatic does have saws that compare with the Unisaw, but not their
Artisan line, which is made in Taiwan to compete with the contractors
saws. The saw you're referring to is the Powermatic 66.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: phil@eos.arc.nasa.gov (Phil Stone)
Subject: Questions about building an exterior door
Organization: NASA Ames Res. Ctr, Calif.
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 00:51:12 GMT

Forgive me for what is a fairly prosaic woodworking (carpentry?)
problem, but here goes:

The door to the sub-basement in my house has come apart in the
winter rains - the former owners must have used an interior-rated
door.  Anyway, I plan to replace it with something of simple but
rugged design.  The door need not be secure, just sturdy and
weatherproof.

I plan to make the door with up to 7) 5" (or thereabouts) X 1"
pine boards, running vertically, with a "Z" arrangement of braces;
basically, this is a very traditional door style, and I'm sure you've
all seen many examples of it.

Tongue-and-groove seems to be a good method for joining the vertical
planks (suggest otherwise if you disagree).  Besides soliciting
general advice, my main question concerns the method of T&G'ing the
wood.  Is this the time to finally buy a dado blade for my table
saw, or is this the time for me to finally build that router table
I've been planning?  Debate will be roundly enjoyed, I assure you.

Also, should I glue or nail?  What sort of glue is weatherproof, if
that's the method of choice?  I assume latex paint (after a linseed
oil priming) would be a good, waterproof finish.

If you reply after Dec. 18th, please echo it to me in email, as I'll
be off the net for a week starting then.  Many thanks.

	Phil Stone (phil@eos.arc.nasa.gov | ...ames!eos!phil)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: kniker@tarkin.enet.dec.com (Chris Kniker)
Subject: Inca 10 1/2" Band Saw
Reply-To: kniker@tarkin.enet.dec.com (Chris Kniker)
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation, Boxboro MA
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 16:01:38 GMT



Does anyone have any experience with the 10 1/2" Inca Band Saw ??

I'm considering it but would like to know more about it (any personal recommendations?) before I buy it. I don't think there are any dealers in the the Boston area who carry this saw so I may be forced into relying on word of 
mouth opinions.

The Band Saw Handbook (Mark Duginske) seems to like it saying that it is
extremely quiet and smooth. It also has flat wheels (as opposed to the crowned
wheels found on the Delta and all of the Taiwanese flavors) which support
the blade better when resawing.

Chris

p.s. The price (approx. $700 from Garrett Wade) seems a bit steep so if you think there are better saws out there for the money, tell me what you think.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: miken@boi.hp.com (Mike Nickerson)
Subject: Re: NEEDED: Cradle Plans
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1992 02:13:09 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.8 PL6]

I will also recommend the Woodsmith article for a baby cradle.  This was my
first major project in fine woodworking.  It took me about 6 months to complete
it but it looks great!  I did the curved, raised panel ends also.  I did the
cradle in cherry.  I bought the turned dowels and hardware from The Woodworkers
Store (I think.  Let me know if you have trouble finding the spindles and I 
will look it up for sure.  It is the same catalog that has the crib hardware
and plans).

I have been very pleased with the Woodsmith articles because they tell you 
enough hints and directions to get you through the construction.  I have seen
straight blueprint type plans of simpler projects that scared me without some
additional instruction.

One hint for this cradle:

You have to glue up three boards (usually) for each end piece.  You then cut
the curved top and sloping sides on each end.  Then you cut the raised panel
on each end.  I used dowels when gluing up the ends.  Yes, I managed to hit
one of the dowels when cutting the raised panels.  Either, don't use dowels
or be very careful where you put them.

Mike Nickerson
miken@mail.boi.hp.com
From: sdk@controls.ccd.harris.com (Sean Klingler)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: HVLP spraying systems
Date: 18 Dec 92 18:07:36 GMT
Organization: Harris Controls and Composition

Recently, I have been seeing advertisements for a spraying system
by Black and Decker called "HVLP".  Does anybody have any experience
with this system?  I can't even find one in stores right now to
read the box.  I don't know if this is the Christmas rush or bad
distribution.

What materials can be sprayed?  Most importantly, can it do polyurethane?
If not, how about the water soluble polyurethanes by Carver-Tripp and
Minwax?

I'm really interested in this as it seems to be a usable system for
a price I can afford.  I'd really like to get something like this soon
because I am just finishing up the biggest project I have ever done.
I am just about finished with a dresser for my first son/daughter, who
should be here any day now.  Who knows, maybe even my mother-in-law
will like it.

Thanks for any replies,

Sean Klingler               sdk@ccd.harris.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: chris@eso.mc.xerox.com (Chris Heiny)
Subject: Re: What about Unisaw competitors?
Reply-To: chris@eso.mc.xerox.com
Organization: Xerox Corporation, Webster NY
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 14:19:40 GMT

In article 29510@adobe.com, bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds) writes:
>> That Hitachi resaw bandsaw is one of the most awesome things I have ever
>> seen.  A three inch bandsaw blade is truly a sight to behold. 
>
>Yeah, but the sound of that universal motor can't be that great to hear.

Well, you oughtta be wearing you're hearing protectors, anyways...

							Chris



Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: gregt@hfglobe.intel.com (Greg Tollefson)
Subject: Re: Pickling Oak
Organization: Intel Corporation
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 23:45:34 GMT

In article <g5l2xhb@rpi.edu> ameres@ithaca.cat.rpi.edu (Eric Ameres) writes:
>Oh wise and wonderful rec.ww'ers,
>
>OK, my latest faq-less question.  For my finish on my oak and oak
>veneer cabinets (not that I'm finished yet :^( ) I'm planning on using
>a pickling stain for a light finish (no extra pigments, comments
>welcome) I bought some Behlen's because I could get it locally to try
>it out.  The stain is mineral spirit based.  What should I use for a
>sanding sealer and finish coat (as well as thinning the three for my
>Wagner HVLP, if neccessary)?  A friend recommended Deft (laquerish) for
>the final finish (sprayed of course) but wasn't sure how it would
>interact with the Behlen's white pickling stain (mineralish).
>
>So here I am soliciting for techniques/combinations of pickeled
>finished.  I already bought a quart (11.95 not a big investment) of
>the Behlen's stain, but am up for grabs on most else.  I'm assuming I
>should brush on the sealer, then sand, then spray on the stain
>(thinned with ???), then rub off excess, then lots of (6+) coats of
>finish (rubbed with 00000 steel wool between ever three or so).
>
>Comments?  Criticisms?


I know one finnishing pro that takes white laytex paint, thins it with 
water and wipes it on with a rag to create a pickeling look.  




>
>-- 
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>Eric Ameres,  Software Engineer                 ameres@cat.rpi.edu
>New York State Center for Advanced Technology in Automation & Robotics
>Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute - CII 8313, Troy, NY 12180-3590


Greg T.




--
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Router to rough turn chair legs
Keywords: router turning Shaker chair posts legs
Date: 14 Dec 92 20:08:22 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

David Doshay writes:
>Sears (OH NO... NOT THEM!!) makes a tool called a router crafter that they
>show turning out prefectly turned posts of many styles. If you look at the
>ad you will see that they turn out nicely varnished as soon at you make the
>cut!! ;^). Well, I have one and the reality is that they can be used to rough
>cut posts. Not too bad if that is what you expect.

Let me start off by saying that I am no great fan of Sears power tools.
However, bear in mind that Sears does not make any of the stuff they sell.
I can't remember who makes their routers, but the lion's share of their
router accessories (biscuit cutter attachment, edge guide, etc.) are made
by Black and Decker. For what it's worth...

Dave
-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
"I look back with some satisfaction on what an idiot I was when I was 25,
 but when I do that, I'm assuming I'm no longer an idiot." - Andy Rooney
From: Andrew.Cohill@vtssi.vt.edu (Andrew Michael Cohill)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Impact of our hobby on "the pros" (WAS: Re: Jointer vs Planer)
Date: 18 Dec 92 14:33:09 GMT
Organization: Fire in the Mountain
X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1.1d13
X-XXMessage-ID: <A7574C518904047C@thea.cc.vt.edu>
X-XXDate: Fri, 18 Dec 92 09:37:21 GMT

I think that it's a sign of insecurity over one's own abilities to try to 
"protect" information or to keep a craft or skill "hidden".  If tell you 
how to do a certain thing, I have lost nothing--I still have the 
knowledge.  And the fact that I have told you does not mean you have 
"taken" something from me.

It's particularly hard to support this attitude in a true crafts 
discipline like woodworking (whereas, commercial trade secrets certainly 
deserve protection).  If Bennett tells me his "secrets" for cutting 
dovetails, it really does not mean all that much, unless I am willing to 
put in the long hours of practice that he has to achieve the same skill 
level and results.

One thing that is impossible to transmit is motivation, and in most 
cases, it is motivation, not skill, that determines the difference 
between failure and success.


Obligatory woodworking note:

Well, I'm coming up on my third Christmas and still have not finished the 
easel I started for wife as a present (she's a painter).  Something about 
two kids, full-time work, and trying to finish a dissertation may have 
something to do with it.  But I'm very close to having it done...darn 
close...just a few more hours....real soon now....

Andrew
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ericb@microsoft.com (Eric Brown)
Subject: Re: Sliding Dovetail Question
Date: 15 Dec 92 23:51:33 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp

In article  Eric Brown writes:
|[stuff deleted...]  The solution (other than planing to
|a precise thickness), is to use two router setups; one with the dovetail
|bit in the fence, the other with the dovetail bit ~half inch away from
|the fence (exact dimension determined by trial and error fits into the
|groove; you make the grooves first).  This way the fence stays on the
|same side of the work piece for both cuts.
|
|[more stuff removed...]
|
|One last note: the second pass with the router bit on the opposite side
|of the workpiece from the fence is somewhat dangerous.  If the board
|pulls away from the fence, it will make a mess of things.  This is why
|feather boards or some other types of hold downs are very important to
|keep the work securely against the fence.

Have received some email questioning my sanity, I want to add some emphasis:

1. Hold downs to hold the workpiece securely to the fence are absolutely
necessary!!!!!!!!!

2. You reverse the direction of feed from the first pass. Otherwise, the
bit will want to "climb" and will tend to pull the workpiece away from you.

Note that climb cutting can actually be advantageous in some circumstances,
but adequate safegaurds to control the movement of the workpiece *must* be
taken.

3. The _real_ point of the preceding post is this: if you run both sides
of the workpiece againt the fence, then the resulting machining will vary
in thickness as the workpieces vary.  You can achieve a more reliable
result by running only one side of a workpiece against the fence, changing
the machine setup accordingly.  This applies to _all_ woodworking operations
including such things as dowling, biscuit jointing, routing, sawing, etc.
You select a reference surface and continue to use only that surface.  Note
that this does not necessarily apply if you need to center something.
However, achieving centeredness and consistent machined width is problematic
if the workpiece thickness varies.

Please ask if this is unclear and you have questions.

-- 
    Eric
               Microsoft Systems, Advanced Systems Development
            {sun, uw-beaver, apple, uunet, fluke}!microsoft!ericb 
                       internet: ericb@microsoft.com
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Null geodesics (repost) [was Re: Straight Edge for Jointer
Date: 11 Dec 92 21:05:24 GMT
Organization: LLNL

In article <92Nov30.141610cst.15563@utdallas.edu>, JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.BITNET (Jeff Roberts) writes:
> 

> Have you guys ever seen the movie "Scanners?", there is a scene where two guys
> match wits reading and controlling each other with their thoughts, one fellow
> won the argument when his head exploded..........
> 
> 
So that's why I got the sinus infection.  I was wondering...
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stevep@sparky.se.hou.compaq.com (Steve Pinn)
Subject: Re: Repair of Countertop
Organization: Compaq Computer Corporation
Distribution:  world
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 20:14:49 GMT

In article <1992Dec14.170440.6516@macc.wisc.edu>, davallen@vms.macc.wisc.edu writes:
|> In article <1992Dec11.230830.7423@iitmax.iit.edu>, SULLRON@MINNA.IIT.EDU (USERS) writes...
|> 
|> >I have just completed sinking a 2' x 3' maple breadboard in 
|> >my counter.  Upon cleanup of the tools and equipment
|> >I dropped my drill and chipped the plastic laminate counter top.
|> >Does anyone have any suggestions for filling in the hole?
|> >It's about .25" in diameter, I have the pieces, but they don't
|> >fit really well.  The top is off white with a light gold mottled
|> >pattern on it.
|> > 
|> >thanks for the help!
|> > 
|> 
|> I fixed one of my classic DUMB blunders on a counter top (ran a couple of
|> screws thru the top from underneath) by drilling out the bad spot VERY
|> CAREFULLY with a good 1/2" bit, and then using a 1/2" plug cutter to cut 
|> a matching plug out of a piece of scrap countertop.  Glued the plug in & 
|> it looks ALMOST as good as new...  (getting the right depth/thickness is
|> the real trick here)
|> 
|> 	Dave Allen
|> 	Space Science & Engr. Ctr.
|> 	UW-Madison

One of the things you may want to do is contact a local wholesaler\distributor
of plastic laminates.  Most of the manufacturers now have latex or 
acrylic based patching compounds (matched to the laminate) to fix
exactly these types of accidents.

G'Luck - Steve
From: scot@fc.hp.com (Scot Heath)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: removing scratches on high-gloss finish
Date: 16 Dec 92 17:16:35 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Fort Collins Site
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.8 PL6]

I have done this on several high gloss gun stocks with both polyurethane
and epoxy finishes with excellent results:

1) Wet sand with 600 grit wet/dry paper.

2) Wet sand with 1200 grip wet/dry paper until all 600 grit marks are gone.

3) Rub with Dupont #7 rubbing compound (a car care product) until all 1200
   grit marks are gone.

4) Rub with Dupont #7 polishing compound (a car care product) until all
   rubbing compound marks are gone.

5) Rub with McGuires (sp?) (a car care product) Heavy Duty Car Cleaner.  This is
   a very fine abrasive in suspension and leaves the finish enourmously shiny.

6) I usually finish with a coat of pure carnuba wax (Mothers or McGuires)
   since glossy finishes tend to stick to ones skin and that is not
   necessarily desireable.

Try this on a non-noticible are first.

Good luck.

-Scot
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-Acknowledge-To: <PH500000@BROWNVM>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 14 Dec 1992 11:34:32 EST
From:         Bob Pelcovits <PH500000@BROWNVM.BITNET>
Subject:      Hartville Tool Supply

I am thinking of ordering a router table from Hartville Tool Supply in Ohio.
Has anyone had any experience with them?



                                  --Bob Pelcovits
                                  Robert_Pelcovits@brown.edu
                                  (401)-863-1432
                                  FAX (401)-863-1157
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bednarek@picard.med.ge.com (Dennis Bednarek Mfg 4-6971)
Subject: Re: Polyurethane Application
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 92 10:29:01 GMT

Tom Walley (tmw@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM) wrote:
:                     Polyurethane Application Questions
: 
: I am about to finish 14 windows and 2 doors with polyurethane and am
: considering using a sprayer instead of a brush.  I would appreciate any bits
: of wisdom about the following :
: 1).  Will a sprayer save me much time and/or will the finish be better?
:      I ask this because I have had problems in the past on small projects
:      with brush streaks and air bubbles in polyurethane even when using a
:      foam brush.

Yes loads of time savings.  Hint apply vasoline to the window panes to aide
in the later removal of overspray and the like.  Three or mora coats of
poly should look almost flawless.  Wait 24 hour between caors for best 
results and don't put it on to thick or you will get runs especially
with poly.
	
: 2).  If a sprayer is the way to go, is an airless sprayer adequate or must I
:      use a cup type with a air compressor?  Any recommendations on sprayer
:      brand and sprayer aperture size would be great.

Airless works great with poly only make sure you are using a small
enough aperature so it don't come out to thick.  Any ggod brand will
work as long as its not a cheapie.

: 3).  Does the polyurethane need to be thinned or have some other type of
:      "stuff" added to it in order for it to spray well?

Not in an airless sprayer.

dennis

--
---------------------------
| UP TIGHT                 | 
| OUT OF SIGHT             |
| EVERY THING IS ALL RIGHT | 
___________________________

The usual disclaimer of self
 and employer applies to all
 above comments.
#
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: Nick_Janow@mindlink.bc.ca (Nick Janow)
Subject: Re: Scraping versus Sanding
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 01:21:37 GMT

stevenj@microsoft.com (Steven Johnson) writes:

> I happened to just finish reading Micheal Dresden's section on sanding vs.
> scraping from his "Woodfinishing Book", published by Taunton Press.
>
> He claims sanding with more than 180 grit is overkill for most woods,
> exceptions being very hard woods like ebony and some woods like cherry that
> have considerable differences between their hard and soft grain. He says to
> take them all the way up to 220.
>
> He predicates this logic on the fact the the wood surface itself is rougher
> than the sandpaper at higher grits.

Ththat sounds misleading to me.  The size of the wood pores may be larger
than the scratch size of 180 grit paper, but the wood between the pores is
wide compared to the wavelength of visible light.  A finely-planed piece of
oak, for example, is somewhat like a mirror with small holes all over it;
it's shiny.  A sanded piece is like a mirror that has been scratched with 180
grit paper; it's inherently dull.

Do a comparison on a piece of scrap wood, unfinished, and finished with your
favorite finishes.  Why accept anyone else's opinions of finishing and
finishes when you have the means to decide for yourself using your own eyes
and sense of touch?

--

Nick_Janow@mindlink.bc.ca
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: hammong@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com (GORDON HAMMON)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Jewelery Boxes (plans)
Date: 14 Dec 92 17:35:09 EST

I'd like to find a plan for one of those large jewelery boxes which
will hold a variety of women's jewelery. The ones I've seen in the
department stores around the holidays have nice features, but are
poor quality for the price. Can anyone help?

Gordon Hammon
Allen-Bradley
Highland Heights, OH
From: apoyner@as.arizona.edu (Tony Poyner)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: dowels vs dados vs t&g
Date: 15 Dec 92 15:02:14 GMT
Reply-To: apoyner@as.arizona.edu
Organization: MMT Observatory, Univ.of Arizona

In article 5664@informix.com, davek@informix.com (David Kosenko) writes:
>For building rail and panel doors and cabinet face frames, biscuits are
>useless (I have a biscuit cutter btw) because, at least for mine, the frames
>are too narrow for even a #0 biscuit.  I suppose they could be used for
>assembling the carcass (I prefer dados myself) or for holding the face frames
>to the carcass (I prefer finish nails in the event that I someday want to
>change the look, so removal of the frames is a snap), but generally the BC
>sits unused (I did find it handy for making drawers, though).  So for
>cabinet making, you don't convince me.
>

The biscuit setup sold by Woodhaven does faceframes real nicely.  This is a
slot cutter that you use in a router table.  The 1/4inch thick cutter is less
diameter than a biscuit joiner's blade, so the slot (and biscuit) is shorter
but proportionally wider than a regular biscuit.  You can use on frames about
1.5 inches wide.  Their last catalog had a mini version for frames even narrower.

You can't use it in the middle of a panel, though.
---
Tony Poyner                               apoyner@as.arizona.edu
Multiple Mirror Telescope Observatory     Tel   (602) 621-5185
Univ. of Arizona, Tucson, AZ 85721        Fax   (602) 670-5740
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: STEVE.BUSSELL@OFFICE.WANG.COM ("Steve Bussell")
Subject: Re: Artisan Table Saw
Organization: Mail to News Gateway at Wang Labs
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 19:28:10 GMT

In response to the question about "Artisan" Power tools.  This is not the name
of a new manufacturer.  The Artisan line is made by Powermatic in Taiwan.  I
believe the line includes a table saw, jointer, bandsaw, shaper, dust
collector, drill press and scroll saw.  I have an Artisan table saw with the
Vega fence and have had years of good service.
   Steve Bussell