HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: ajw@dcs.ed.ac.uk (Amanda Welsh)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Fruitflies
Date: 5 Oct 92 16:58:22 GMT
Organization: Edinburgh University, Department of Computer Science

In article <fh11.718240492@sol>, fh11@sol.acs.unt.edu (Brozovic Douglas) writes:
> Well, I am back, and so are the dreaded flies in ever increasing numbers!!!
> 
> Someone mentioned that these could be fungus flies instead of fruitflies...I
> haven't responded to Kays' advice yet but I thought I would add a bit of 
> information.  They seem to prefer the moist soil.  That is, I have only seen
> their larvae in plants which take a longer time to dry out (like our 
> hanging plants).  Anyhow, I have moved all these outside and are going to
> let them dry out for a week or so and then I would like treat the soil with
> something that will send these little beasties on their way...any ideas?

I don't know much about fruitflies -- but a while back I had a problem with
fungus gnats/flies. They are small dark grey flies, which seem to fly out of
the soil when the plant is watered. If you look closely in the soil you might
be able to see tiny white larvae. Apparently you can get them from
unsterilised soil and overwatering. I was recommended to use Malathion (better check with a garden centre or such) or letting the soil dry out
completely -- I opted for the former and it seemed to work fine -- I only have
one or two of the little blighters around now.

I hope this helps.

-- 
Amanda Welsh, Department of Computer Science, University of Edinburgh.
(ajw@dcs.ed.ac.uk)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: DRYING PARSLY
From: kristen@telerama.pgh.pa.us (Kristen McQuillin)
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 13:00:19 GMT
Organization: Telerama

janez@base.bellcore.com (Jane Zysk) writes:

: 	Wow, that sounds like a pretty time/energy intensive
: 	method.  Here's I've done for the last several years
: 	with great success:  Cut as much Parsley, Rosemary,
: 	Thyme, Basil, etc. as you want to dry (stems included).
: 	Gather a bunch of the stems together and secure with
: 	a rubber band.  Hang the bundle upside down in the house
: 	out of direct sunlight and forget about it for several
: 	weeks.  After the plant is all dried, the leaves just
: 	crumble off.  I usually crumble the leaves over a cookie
: 	sheet, 

Here's an even easier way to remove the leaves from the stems: Put the
dried herbs in a plastic grocery bag, tie the handles, and shake
vigorously. The tiny bits stay in the bag instead of flying all over
the room! Any stubborn leaves can be picked off by hand.
From: lauras@picea.CFNR.ColoState.EDU (Laura Stump)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Control of fungus gnats
Date: 6 Oct 92 22:18:48 GMT
Organization: College of Natural Resources, Colo. State Univ.

I've been reading the comments on how to eradicate fungus gnats
(a common problem in the soil of some houseplants), and no one
has yet mentioned the much less toxic alternative to Malathion
that I have successfully used for these pests.  A strain of
bacillus thuringiensis (a biological larvicide) has been
developed specifically for fungus gnats, and it is sold under the
trade name of "Gnatrol" by organic garden product companies (I
think we ordered ours from Gardens Alive).  I highly recommend it
... I can't see using something like Malathion at all if there is
an effective, reasonably-priced, organic alternative, and this
particularly applies to plants that hang around inside the house
with me!  I can supply an address for ordering this product upon
request.

Laura Stump (Colorado State University)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Bats - way cool
From: Robert Chambers <RMCCU@CUNYVM.BITNET>
Date: Monday, 28 Sep 1992 21:35:32 EDT
Organization: CUNY/UCC VM Systems

I've been meaning to post something about this, but anyhow.... In last
Thursdays New York Times there was a Q & A part in e Home section.

Q: I've seen bats flying around my garden at night and they are a bit
   scary.  Are these good guys or bad?

A: paraphrase They are definately good, eat all sorts of bugs and mosquitos
   Talk to these people about building a bat house and attracting some
   If you're interested... a free catalog of bat paraphernalia including
   bat houses is available from Bat Conservation International, P.O. Box
   162603, Austing Texas 78716  (in us) 1-800-538-2287.

I'm waiting anxiously for my info packet...  (but not hanging by my feet
yet).

Robert
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: fh11@sol.acs.unt.edu (Brozovic Douglas)
Subject: Re: Fruitflies
Organization: University of North Texas
Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1992 23:14:52 GMT

klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes:

>At this point, it might make sense to capture a few of the critters,
>and send them off to your state extension entomologist for ID.  Fruit
>flies eat yeast (which often occurs on overripe fruits) -- I have seen
>fruitflies breeding successfully in sink traps and drip pans under the
>refrigerator (excuse the sexism, but this was *really* a classic
>bachelor establishment).  You may have a hidden reservoir of yeast
>someplace too.  Or, since the problem is so much more persistant, maybe
>you aren't dealing with fruitflies at all!!!

>Kay Klier  Biology Dept  UNI

Well, I am back, and so are the dreaded flies in ever increasing numbers!!!

Someone mentioned that these could be fungus flies instead of fruitflies...I
haven't responded to Kays' advice yet but I thought I would add a bit of 
information.  They seem to prefer the moist soil.  That is, I have only seen
their larvae in plants which take a longer time to dry out (like our 
hanging plants).  Anyhow, I have moved all these outside and are going to
let them dry out for a week or so and then I would like treat the soil with
something that will send these little beasties on their way...any ideas?

Thanks in advance
Doug
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: gere@umunhum.stanford.edu (Susan Gere)
Subject: Re: Thug repellant
Organization: Stanford University CSL
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 92 20:22:45 GMT

bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org writes:
>
> You do NOT want to plant any multiflora rose. 
> ... It's been declared a noxious weed in the state of Kansas.

  Second the motion for no more invasive aliens into Cali!

Any of the Rugosa roses will form a tough, thorny hedge suitable
for any climate, though hip production seems to need cold.

The hybrid musk "Ballerina" is a good variety with troublesome
prickles, and would look nice spilling over a retaining wall.

The rose *I* would like to get is R. sericea pteracantha, the
chinese/himalayan "Wingthorn" which has, like a dragon's back,
translucent red thorns an inch wide. Unfortunately it grows to
10' high by 6'.
						.peachthief.
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Poinsettia Question - How to Force Blooms?
Date: 6 Oct 92 23:12:27 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

M23133@mwvm.mitre.org writes:
>  
> I have a poinsettia plant that I would like to force into bloom for
> Christmas this year.  Does anyone know the best way of doing this??
> The plant is about 4 years old, and has not bloomed since I first got it.

You're really sure you want to do this?  Poinsettias are cheap...

Ok, if you're _really sure_...

First of all, was it growing in full sun all summer?  Hasn't been 
exposed to night temps <60oF?  or >65o?   Day temps <70o?  Then your
plant might be in good enough condition to bloom if you give it the
right photoperiod.  Poinsettias are 'short day plants', but that
really means they require long nights.

You need to figure out someway of keeping the plant in the dark for
at least 12 hours *each and every night* until the bracts start
reddening up.  It'll take 65-85 days to completely redden, depending
on temperature.  Typically, growers keep the plants dark at night from 
Oct 7 to 25 Nov.  No streetlights.  No accidentally opened closet doors.
No accidentally turned-on room lights.  Major pain, IMHO.

You'll also need to give it a fair amount of fertilizer-- which you
should have been doing all along-- something with a high middle
number, like 10-20-10.

Good luck!

Kay Klier  Biology Dept  UNI

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: kip@space.mit.edu (Karolen I. Paularena)
Subject: Frost hits peppers - what now?
Summary: after first frost, salvage options requested
Originator: kip@plasma
Reply-To: kip@space.mit.edu
Organization: MIT Center for Space Research
Distribution: na
Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1992 17:26:17 GMT

Well, two days ago we had our first frost.  I am rather new to gardening,
especially where it freezes.  Our green and hot peppers suffered heavily
on top, but the lower halves seem okay.  My question is - should I harvest
the peppers now, or wait until the next frost is predicted?  The fruit
seem undamaged, if that helps.  Thanks for your experience.

By the way, I appreciated all the advice about when pumpkins are ripe.
The first pies were great!
From: jhb@calmasd.prime.com (Jim Bishop)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Cosmos Sensation reached 9 feet!
Date: 6 Oct 92 05:43:22 GMT
Article-I.D.: calmasd.1992Oct5.214322.836
Distribution: usa
Organization: -

In article <1992Oct05.130356.100367@watson.ibm.com>, sundare@watson.ibm.com (C. Sundaresan) writes:
> I do love the flowers but the height is a little daunting.  Has anyone
> tried cutting them back at some stage in their growth (like mums)?

I usually pinch out the top when they are about one foot tall.  I
don't think it makes them grow any shorter, but it does make them
busier.

> How about the shorter varieties? Are the flowers as nice?

There are some new shorter versions out.  I tried the white ones 2
years ago.  The flowers didn't open as fully as the giant ones.  Also
they didn't seem to live as long.  However, it may have been the
summer which was very cool and cloudy.  I planned to try the different
colored shorter ones this year, but I never got my seed order mailed
in.

> I've saved seeds, with thoughts of starting some more next spring
> (I figure the winter freeze will kill the seeds but does anybody
> out there know for sure?)

I don't think a freeze would kill the seed, but don't know since it
doesn't freeze here.

> I have to grow *some* of these tall cosmos again, so I can continue
> to meet my neighbors as they walk past and ask me what these huge
> ferns with the flowers are....

Try cleome if you want to draw some more unusual comments.

> 
> Chris Sundaresan 

Jim
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: axc@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (alex.cornella)
Subject: Gravely Walk-Behind Tractor for sale
Keywords: Model L; many attachments; NJ, E. PA
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: ne
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 15:29:00 GMT


GRAVELY Model L walk-behind tractor FOR SALE.
Rings and bearings done 30-40 hours ago.  Includes
many attachments, including rotary plow, snow blower,
buzz saw, dozer blade, mower deck, sickle bar, cultivator,
gear reduction wheels.  Does not burn oil, runs on
unleader gasoline.  Some attachments need minor work.
Make an offer.  Reply to 908-362-9739 eves or weekends,
or by e-mail.

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: lp@well.sf.ca.us (Lily Pond)
Subject: pruning Japanese maples
Organization: Whole Earth 'Lectronic Link
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 13:28:00 GMT


When is the best time of year to prune the tiny little lower limbs off a
Japanese maple?
From: bj368@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Mike E. Romano)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Giant Bamboo
Date: 4 Oct 1992 08:43:40 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


   I am looking for information on growing the larger species
 of bamboo in the Northwest, northern California, Oregon and
 Washington state.  I understand it needs a great deal of
 water and may be sensitive to low winter temperatures.
 It is being considered to be a possible substitute for
 timber since it can be used for paper pulp and other
 products (has been for centuries in China, etc.), is very
 fast growing
 and does not require replanting each year.
 I would be interested to hear from people in the Northwest
 who have experience with this type of bamboo.


-- 
Capt. Kirk: let's head for that planet, third from the sun, it
            looks promising.... |-)
From: vrs0@bunny.gte.com (V. Stern)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Winter Rye = Annual Ryegrass ?
Date: 28 Sep 92 14:07:01 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: GTEL

A few years ago, I planted winter rye in our little garden.  Boy, was I 
sorry!!  The stuff got HUGE with roots that went to China.  We nearly 
ruined a friend's tiller trying to till it under.  It would have been 
totally impossible to do by hand.  Of course, I haven't tried it since.  
Is my experience abnormal?  I'm sure I planted winter rye - at least 
that's what the garden shop said it was.

Vanessa R. Stern
vrs0@bunny.gte.com
Xref: sparky rec.gardens:7039 misc.misc:3390
From: yoyodyne@Apple.COM (Yolanda Renee Surratt)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens,misc.misc
Subject: Landscape Recommendation???
Keywords: Landscape, Gardener, Gardening
Date: 28 Sep 92 20:26:09 GMT
Distribution: ba
Organization: Apple Computer Inc., Cupertino, CA

Greetings,  

I'm looking for someone to help me design or rather decide what 
should be planted both in my front and back yards.  I would like
to say I have the time to do a good job myself.. but I don't 
think I do...there seems to be a lot to consider!

I bought a house early last year with little or no "landscaping" done.
I've painted, and put in new fences this year. I might be moving in two
to three years, so I don't want to invest too much.. but enought to make
it to be "acceptable" when it comes time to sell.

I plan on doing the maintenance.. but might be willing to look at
pricing for a gardener service depending on what the upkeep would be.
I have in mind, something relatively low maintenance and of course
water conserving.. (although my CCF bank is pretty high right now!)

I'm in the Campbell/San Jose Area.. any input would be appreciated.

signed,
yolanda  aka.. wanna be gardener..!



Newsgroups: rec.gardens,bionet.plants,alt.co-evolution
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Chimeric hyacinths?
Date: 6 Oct 92 21:18:03 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

Someplace over the weekend I *think* I read about cutting two hyacinth
bulbs in half (say an incipient pink and a blue flowered bulb each) and 
then swapping halves and binding the two halves together.  This was 
supposed to produce a chimeric inflorescence.   Any one try this?  Or
should I just be asking my department head for a _long vacation_ to
recuperate from my fever????

Kay Klier  
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: matth@progress.COM (Matthew J. Harper)
Subject: Re: Thug repellant
Organization: Progress Software Corp.
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 18:47:40 GMT

  You'll have to be carefull yourself but...

  Why not plant a two foot wide strip of Poisen Ivy right next to the bus stop?

  How's that for a "get even" idea? :-) :-)

-Matth
--
          Matthew J. Harper ! Progress Software Corp. ! {disclaimer.i}         
   God created heaven and earth to grow barley and hops. Now he homebrews !-)  
Newsgroups: rec.gardens,misc.rural,alt.co-evolution,bionet.plants
From: Lawrence.London@bbs.oit.unc.edu (Lawrence London)
Subject: FTP site now available for rec.gardens FAQ's
Organization: Extended Bulletin Board Service
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 1992 05:43:51 GMT

[Please disregard my previous post; I made a mistake in
specifying the directory location of the files]

An FTP site has been set up for rec.gardens FAQ's. Anybody
without access to FTP may e-mail me your document requests
and I'll send them to you.

Please FTP or e-mail me any new or updated FAQ's and I'll post them as
soon as received.

This is the current list:

bulbs.faq 
gardensoft.faq 
roses.faq 
fertilizers.faq 
peppers.faq 
seedcats.faq

FTP to sunsite.unc.edu
files are in /pub/docs/sustainable_agriculture/recgardens

Misc.rural FAQ's will soon be available.

Let me know if you run into any problems getting the files.

Lawrence

london@sunsite.unc.edu
lawrence.london@bbs.oit.unc.edu
larry@wolves.durham.nc.us [don't send requests to me at this address]
--
   The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the University of
     North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Campus Office for Information
        Technology, or the Experimental Bulletin Board Service.
           internet:  bbs.oit.unc.edu or 152.2.22.80
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: fh11@sol.acs.unt.edu (Brozovic Douglas)
Subject: Thanks (was Fruitflies)
Summary: Thanks to everyone!!!
Keywords: Fruitflies
Organization: University of North Texas
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 15:54:39 GMT

I just wanted thank everyone who responded to my cries for help with regard 
to the dreaded fungus flies.  I have compiled a list of most of the 
responses, and will post them as needed.  Also, I will post the results of
our attempt to purge our house of these stupid little %$#@#&* insects...sorry, 
I guess I have just had one too many fly up my nose, in my eye, in my ear....

O.k.  So our plan is

1) Move the plants outside and allow them to dry out completely

2) Treat them with Malithon 

3) When we move them back inside we will treat the plants periodically with
   a soap spray.


By the way, these little things are clever.  They will move from the dirt to
the water collector, so you have to watch it!  :-)  

My thanks to Amanda, Andrew, Kay and Susan for their advice.  

Best Regards
Douglas Brozovic
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Soft water 'poisoning' symptoms
Date: 6 Oct 92 19:46:06 -0500
Followup-To: rec.gardens,alt.bonsai
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

bartlone@gemed (Mike Bartolone) writes:
> 
> Does any one out there know what the symptoms would be if a plant
> were watered with soft water? I have several plants that are not
> at all well, and I am not sure if the water I'm using could
> be part or all of the problem. I'd rather not post the symptoms
> at this time so I don't get any 'biased' answers. Does anyone
> know what to do if you have no reliable source of hard water?

Well, there are a lot of ways for water to be "soft".  Water that
has few dissolved minerals (esp. calcium and magnesium) is naturally
soft.  About the only plant symptoms you'll see with naturally soft
water or with deionized, demineralized or distilled water is deficiency
symptoms, usually chlorosis.

I suspect, though, that you are talking about a plant watered with 
water from a "softener" that you keep feeding salt (sodium chloride)
to.  Here, the idea is that the sodium ions replace the calcium
and magnesium ions in the original hard water.  You'll use less
soap and you won't have soap scum with these water softeners, but
the sodium ions particularly will be hard on plants after a while.
Typical symptoms include "browning" or "burning" of leaf tips or
edges.  You'll see similar symptoms in overfertilized plants, too--
the "leaf burning" is not specific.

Cure in either case is to _thoroughly_ leach the soil the plant is
sitting in with lots of water to wash the salts out.  Or better yet,
repot it and find the tap in the house that isn't hooked to the water
softener, and use the hard water on your plants...

Kay Klier   Biology Dept  UNI
From: fiddler@concertina.Eng.Sun.COM (steve hix)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Re: Natural snail controls
Date: 29 Sep 1992 02:03:24 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Mt. View, Ca.
NNTP-Posting-Host: concertina

In article <1992Sep29.000956.14665@colorado.edu> jessup@dot.cs.colorado.edu (Elizabeth Jessup) writes:
>In article <lc66gkINNpge@utkcs2.cs.utk.edu> langston@langston.cs.utk.edu (Mike Langston) writes:
>>judy woodley ponders:
>>
>>> I am grateful that we don't have banana slugs here, at least.  
>>> I wonder if your stomach would go numb if you ate one.
>>
>>i don't know, but mine turns over at the thought
>
>i'd like to know how mike can rave about fried okra but be so 
>closed-minded about eating banana slugs.   i can barely see 
>the difference.

One is green, the other yellow with...uh...um, that's not what
you`re looking for, is it?

One tends to slide off the plate if you don't pay close
attention?

Oh...actually, they both seem to do that.

One has more protein?  Yeah! That's it!  And okra has little
longitudinal ribs, and b. slugs don't.

--
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Of making many books there is no end...  |  What's wrong with chasing 
                       -- Eccl. 12:12    |  nebulae till 3 am?  |-(
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu (John Snyder)
Subject: Re: Orange roots - what tree has such ?
Organization: Physics Department, Carnegie Mellon University
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 05:08:15 GMT

In article <1992Sep28.022046.7720@mcnc.org> kk@mcnc.org (Krzysztof A. Kozminski) writes:
>While digging in various places around the perimeter of my house, I
>invariably find some bright orange roots and am curious what tree they
>might belong to.  The color does not seem to depend on the root
>thickness: whether it is a 1-inch or 0.5mm diameter it is orange.  The
>roots to extend waaay beyond the drip lines of any trees.  Gentle
>excavations in the trunk vicinities of assorted trees failed to
>identify the owner of the roots (hmm, maybe it is the house itself that
>sprouted them ?-)
>
>The trees nearest to the root finding sites are mostly sweetgums and
>tulip poplars, some kind of a birch (river birch ?), mulberry (?) and
>an unidentified cypress-like thing.  They all seem to be large enough
>to send the roots to the distance of 40-50 feet.
>
>Does any of the above sound likely to be the culprit of the orange
>underground mess?
>
>KK
>-- 
>"Limit congressmen to two terms.  One in office.  One in jail."


I noticed that in the spring people were digging up bright orange
roots around our community gardens.  There are also quite a few "volunteer"
mulberry trees around and among the gardens (and near where I remember
seeing some of the dug-up roots).  So, I suspect the mulberry, although
I have no proof.

John
snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu