HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: plumpe@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Plumpe)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Tool steel brad point drills? Where?
Date: 26 Jan 93 15:06:45 GMT
Reply-To: plumpe@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Plumpe)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.woodworking, tomb@hplsla.hp.com (Tom Bruhns) writes:
>Can anyone recommend a brand or supplier of brad point drills made
>of decent quality tool steel?  I'd like something that doesn't
>loose its edge on the first buried woodscrew it hits; I'd guess
    (etc)

    You might try carbide-tipped bits.  I noticed yesterday Harbor Freight
(1-800-423-2567) lists a 7 piece carbide-tipped brad point drill bit
set (1/8",3/16,1/4,5/16,3/8,7/16,1/2, with 3/8" shanks, stock # 00548-0CTA)
for $17.99 +post.  I don't know whether the carbide would solve your
problem, and Harbor Freight quality is variable, but it might be worth
giving it a try.  If you do try them, let me what you think.
	 -DaveP
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: biz@soil.NoSubdomain.NoDomain (Dave Bisignano)
Subject:  Woodcraft Phone #
Originator: news@nimaster
Reply-To: biz@soil.Princeton.EDU
Organization: Princeton University
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 14:34:49 GMT

Does anyone have it? 

--Dave
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: smb@research.att.com (Steven Bellovin)
Subject: Re: 9.6v/12v cordless drilss
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1993 12:32:59 GMT
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories

In article <1993Jan22.214413.27851@slcs.slb.com>, weissborn@DFWVX1.DALLAS.GEOQUEST.SLB.COM writes:
> Anyway, anyone have any opinions on either of these or maybe
> even the Panasonic or Porter-cable(12v)?

I have the Panasonic 9.6, and I'm utterly delighted with it.  I bought it
almost on impulse, since I thought I already had a cordless drill.  I
was mistaken; what I had was some left-over fecal material that had been
shaped to resemble a drill...  The Panasonic -- now *that's* a drill.
From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1993 23:53:53 GMT
Subject: Re: Table Saw Experiences
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

parnass@cbnewse.cb.att.com (Bob Parnass, AJ9S) writes:
>
>gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz) said:
>
>  > I have a unifence too.  However, I think if I were to do it again,
>  > I might strongly consider an aftermarket fence that locks on both 
>  > ends.   It depends on what is involved....
>  > Neither fence can be used with the wheeled hold-downs as is;  since
>  > they are only front mounted, they both deflect upward when the hold-downs
>  > are attached.   
>
>I don't have a table saw but have followed the fence discussions
>and looked at aftermarket fences in stores.
>
>To use the wheeled hold-downs with a fence which only fastens
>to the front rail, how about merely clamping the fence to the
>rear of the table after positioning it?
>
>A Quick Grip clamp would work.

  Sure, but then you have to walk around the back of the saw, position the
  clamp, clamp it down.

  What I was saying in my post is that if you are going to go the $250 for
  an aftermarket fence, I think I would get one that locks at the rear
  next time.  Then I don't have to worry about the clamp.
From: rstarr@pollux.svale.hp.com (Rob Starr)
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 20:43:04 GMT
Subject: Re: Re: Table saw surface protection
Organization: Hewlett Packard CPCD, Sunnyvale CA
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

I have tried both Dri-cote (sp?) and Tre-wax.  I much prefer the wax and
it is only about $4 for a near lifetime supply vs. $8-10 for a little
bottle of Dri-cote.  One man's opinion; but that's why they make them
both, so you can buy the one you like and the world will be that
much closer to utopia.

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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Thu, 28 Jan 1993 08:45:41 -0500
From:         "Wile E. Coyote" <BBHULSEY@LIFE.UAMS.EDU>
Subject:      Re: What wood goes well with Birch-veneer ply?

Greetings Andy!

>I love birch venner ply. Does anyone have any ideas on an
>common wood to use for trim if you like the look of natural wood?
>
>-- somthing that goes well with birch or stains the same shade.
>
>thanks for any info.

Well, birch itself might be what you're looking for.  I generally use red oak
myself, but I may not be as picky as some people.  I'd get some sample pieces
of birch and try some different trim pieces.  One thing to keep in mind is
that birch ply is rather difficult to stain evenly.  If I want to stain
something like birch or pine I usually use one of the Watco colored oil
finishes rather than a conventional stain.  If I then want a glossier finish
I'll apply a polyurethane over the Watco.  There's also a method of mixing a
bit of varnish with stain to stain these woods evenly.  I don't recall the
technique exactly, but I'd be glad to look it up for you.

.......
:  o/ : Bruce Hulsey
: <|  : Univ. of Arkansas for Medical Sciences
: / > : internet: bbhulsey@life.uams.edu
:.....: bitnet:   bbhulsey@uams
From: flanery@cs.utk.edu (Ray Flanery)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Locust wood (Northeast Ohio species - prob. honey locust)
Date: 27 Jan 93 17:16:06 GMT
Organization: Computer Science Dept, University of Tennessee, Knoxville
NNTP-Posting-Host: utkcs2.cs.utk.edu

Does anyone have experience with locust wood? A friend of mine has 
dried some logs from a tree which was downed by lightning about
2 years ago. We are trying to find info on the properties of this wood
but have so far been unsuccessful.
-- 
 Raymond E. Flanery Jr.             |  Go BROWNS !!!                     
 ORNL, MSS, EP&M                    |  1977 MGB (ALICIA II)              
 P.O. Box 2008, Bldg. 6012          |  (615)574-0630  FAX: (615)574-0680 
 Oak Ridge, TN  37831-6367          |  flanery@msr.epm.ornl.gov          
From: keith@hp-ptp.ptp.hp.com (Keith Millar)
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1993 22:58:16 GMT
Subject: Anyone cut metal with a circular saw?
Organization: HP Pacific Technology Park - Sunnyvale, Ca.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

I have this great idea that I can put a particle metal cutting blade in my 
circular saw and cut metal pipe and box steel  and sheet steel ( <= 1/4 inch )

Is there any reason why I shouldn't? Are regular circular saws (mine is a 
black and decker trade 1/4 hp) able to handle the job? I was thinking that 
perhaps the hot sparks or wrong speed might be a factor. 

Thanks for any tips,

Keith Millar

keith@hp-ptp.hp.com
From: stevep@sparky.se.hou.compaq.com (Steve Pinn)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Laminate Bond that Didn't
Date: 26 Jan 93 17:56:50 GMT
Reply-To: pinn@cpqhou.se.hou.compaq.com
Organization: Compaq Computer Corporation

In article <C19vvz.1tFo@austin.ibm.com>, frank@austin.ibm.com (F. Karner) writes:
|> 
|> In article <mlh1-220193101710@132.197.9.231>, mlh1@bunny.gte.com (Michael Hackney) writes:
|> > In article <1993Jan21.201450.7362@slustl.slu.edu>, guy@slustl.slu.edu (Guy
|> > Smith) wrote:
|> > > 
|> > > In article <8090025@hpfcdc.fc.hp.com> bennett@hpfcdc.fc.hp.com (Steve Bennett) writes:
|> > > >I recently applied a piece of plastic laminate to a small table top. For
|> > > >some reason (maybe the shop wasn't quite warm enough?), I didn't get a good
|> > > >bond on one of the edges. I can peal it back about a half inch along that side.
|> > > >
|> > > >What's the recommended technique to fix this sort of problem? Any suggestions
|> > > >would be gratefully accepted!
|> > > I had a similar problem with a commercially produced laminate counter.
|> > > As it was still under warranty, they came out and fixed it. They just
|> > > cleaned out the dried contact cement and injected yellow glue and clamped
|> > > it. Still ok one year later.
|> > 
|> > I've done this sort of repair too - but don't use yellow glue, the formica
|> > laminate is not porous enough to get a good bond. Use epoxy instead.
|> > Clamping is critical. I use a 3/4" plywood scrap several inches longer than
|> > the delamination and use as many clamps as you can get on it.
|> 
|> Epoxy works fine, but is probably overkill.  I've used a brand called
|> "Liquid nails" that is very sticky and requires minimum clamping, with
|> great success.  It is also very cheap to buy.  At HD, I've bought a
|> couple of cartridges packaged together, for use in a caulk gun, for less
|> than $3.00.
|> -- 
|> 
|>          DISCLAIMER: The opinions expressed in this posting are mine
|>             solely and do not represent my employer in any way.
|>        F. A. Karner AIX Technical Support | karner@austin.vnet.ibm.com

Just as an aside I (in my early years of woodworking 1970's) used contact
cement regulary for applying veneers to plywood.  Before I get flamed
I don't do this anymore however, the pieces that I built are still
functioning today and none of the veneer is lifted.  The pieces were for
my son's bedroom and comprise of a blanket chest, chest of drawers and
a night stand.  I admit that they are not high use items but they have
survived extremely climate changes (move from Toronto to Houston) as well
as the abuse a child would give them.

The only "special" thing I did was to apply 2 coats of contact cement to
both surfaces, letting the first dry until it had completely lost it's
tack before applying the second coat.  I have used this technique in
building shop stands with plastic laminates since with equally good
results.

Steve
From: biggersc@memstvx1.memst.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Table Saw Experiences
Date: 25 Jan 93 13:47:29 -0600
Organization: Memphis State University

In article <1993Jan25.164118.18448@informix.com>, davek@informix.com (David Kosenko) writes:

> 
> That flange on the Delta is for a padlock.  You stick one through the holes 
> on the flange, and noone can turn the saw on (or off, if you should happen
> to put the lock on with the switch in the on position).  Remember that, although
> it may well be the most commonly used shop saw, the Contractor's Saw was
> designed for use by contractors (surprise, surprise).  So many of the "features"
> make a lot more sense on a job site than in the shop (like a padlock on the 
> on/off switch, lightweight extentions, no dust collection port, etc).  If
> Delta were clever, they would make a CS equivalent designed for home shop use
> (at the same price as the CS) with a few differences more apropos of the
> home shop environment.
> 
> Dave
> 
> -- 
> Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
> **************************************************************************
> "I look back with some satisfaction on what an idiot I was when I was 25,
>  but when I do that, I'm assuming I'm no longer an idiot." - Andy Rooney


Thanks Dave....I'll admit that is a clever way to lock up a contractor's saw.  
I had never thought of such a gimmick.  I just wish we could convert it to a 
larger switch that would be easier to find.

Oh...the >>>>>>>'s....I knew better, but forgot in trying to get on this new
"BBS"....

Later....
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 25 Jan 1993 08:30:20 -0800
From:         RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM
Subject:      Re: Incra Jig

I got an Incra jig about a year ago and buit a fence and fence slider
insted of buying Incra's.

I haven't done too much with it yet; but, it's already paid for it self
cutting finger lap joints. I clamp all 4 sides of a box to the slider and
cut a box worth of joints in 2 set ups.

You can make a very usible fence and slider; but, the book is worth buying.

                        Ron Tye (all opinions my own)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: fszeman@typhoon.lerc.nasa.gov (Pat Zeman)
Subject: Drafting software for the shop
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center [Cleveland, Ohio]
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 19:11:25 GMT

Hi, 
  I'm looking for a general purpose drafting program for a 486 machine.
I wish to use it mainly for my woodworking projects.  Therefore, I
believe that drawing programs are to simple (no drafting tools) and
CAD programs are too big and expensive for simple shop use.  Some
software companies also misname their programs, using the title 
CAD, a buzz word.

   What if anything do you use, and what do you like and dislike about
it?

Paul

"You are not alone in your head and they are not all your friends."
                                                           A. Issarni
From: root@surya.UUCP (Root Account)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: metalworking
Keywords: metalworking
Date: 16 Jan 93 20:19:48 GMT
Organization: Sunshine in a box

stevenj@microsoft.com (Steven Johnson) writes:

> 
> 
> I've heard mention of a metalworking newsgroup, but trying to
> subscribe to both rec.crafts.metalworking and rec.metalworking
> has proven fruitless.  Any suggestions for finding this group?

I believe it is still a "trial" news group, part of the trial fiasco.
try trial.rec.metalworking.

Unfortunately most sites neither carry nor forward any of the trial groups,
so you probably will not have much luck there either.

If you do, please let me know.


Jim Klessig
...indetech!woodowl!surya!root
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mj7633@ireland.medtronic.com (Mark Jacoby)
Subject: Re: Dust Collectors - Home Built
Organization: Medtronic, Inc., Minneapolis, MN
Distribution: rec.woodworking
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 19:00:56 GMT

In article <1993Jan20.141407.14635@medtron.medtronic.com>, I wrote:
|> A while back there was a discussion on home built dust collectors.
|> Did anyone save this thread? Could some kind soul email it to me?
|> Pleeease :^)
|> Or, are there any critical design criteria (ie. ground wire, filter
|> bag size, etc.) or things that you wish you had done on your's?
|>
|> I'll forward what I get to whoever is interested.
|>
|> thanx
|>
|> mark mj7633@medtronic.com


Well, I've gotten quite a few replies...  The only problem is that
they ALL want a summary of what I received, but I didn't get any
input as to "Dust Collectors - Home Built"

Did anyone save the previous thread?

Could you please send this to me?

Again, I'll forward what I get to whoever is interested.

Thanx, again,

-- 
mark jacoby

mj7633@medtronic.com		612-574-8548
From: cf603@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Dave Sill)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: H&A No. 1 bandsaw
Date: 21 Jan 1993 12:50:27 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: cf603@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Dave Sill)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz) says:
>cf603@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Dave Sill) writes:
>>
>>I just bought an old bandsaw, and I'd appreciate any information anyone   
>>has on the model and manufacturer.
>
>   Fair enough.

I still haven't gotten any information on this.  Surely *someone* in this
group knows *something* about H&A or this saw.  PLEASE drop me a line if
you do.

>>It's got 14" wheels with rubber tires--no crown, but that hasn't caused any
>>tracking problems that I can see.  Depth of cut is a tad over 4"--the blade
>>is about 85" so I guess I'll need to buy one of those kits and make my own.
>>The top wheel has a simple bronze(?) bearing with an oil fitting.  It's got
>                            ^^^^^^
>This is probably a babbit bearing.  The way this works is the bronze stuff,
>which is actually a specific alloy called "Babbit" is melted down and poured
>into the bearing so that it mates exactly with the part that turns, in this
>case, probably the wheel shaft.

I'm pretty sure it's bronze, but never having seen babbit first-hand, I
can't say for sure.  How can I tell?  Scratch test?  I could try to melt
it, but then the saw would be out of commission until I re-poured it.

If it is a bronze sleeve, can I take it to a machine shop and have it
replaced with a new one?  Could I upgrade to a ball or roller bearing? 
Anyone ever done anything like this?  What kind of bearing would be best
for a bandsaw--under blade tension, I'd say the load on the bearing is
pretty high.

>Any play here could be responsible for poor cutting performance.

I think the blade is part of it, too.  It's old, and has at least two
welds.

>To restore these bearings, you take melt down the babbit and add a little
>new babbit (to compensate for the wear) and then pour it into the bearing.
>There is an excellent article on this in one of the Fine Woodworking
>condensations.  I will look for it at home.

Yes, even though my woodworking library is only 2 or 3 books strong, I *do*
have FWW on Woodworking Machinery.  It's excellent, and everyone ought to
buy a copy.  Besides the article on babbit bearings, it covers 3-phase
power, maintenance, Taiwanese imports, etc.

-- 
Dave Sill
Play: cf603@cleveland.freenet.edu
Work: de5@ornl.gov
From: coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM (Chip Coffin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Planer Questions
Date: 27 Jan 1993 02:52:36 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Distribution: world
Reply-To: coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: surfin

>Does anyone have a jig that would set the wood on its side so that you     
>could use it as a joiner?                                                                          

I don't think you understand what a jointer does. By setting the board on its side, 
you will make the board width uniform, and put a nice finish on the edge  that's
being planed but don't expect the board to be "joined".  Planers do not remove the 
crown of a board, even if you put it on edge. You have to do that on a table saw 
or with a joiner.

My advice is to plan on buying a jointer (or joiner - who really cares).  Look
in the paper for used ones and pounce on them (they go quickly).  But you can find
some good deals there.  I bought a sears 6-1/8 for 175 and sold it 1 year later for 200
(I did have it nicely tuned, though).  Then I bought a used walker turner for 95.

BTW, you can make stock as thin as you like, irrespective of the type of planer
(except a dull one) if you stick the stock to a piece of plywood or other carrier 
and then run it through. Carpet tape is supposed to work well for this.


   >Sorry, can't help you here.   I would rather have a jointer and make
   >it act like a planer than vice-versa.

I bought a jointer before I owned a planer.  Then I had to buy the planer to make
up for the thickness differences created with the jointer... So much for the cheap route...

IMHO, they are not interchangeable tools, and if you get to the level of woodworking where
you need a jointer, you probably need a planer too.

My father did tons and tons of projects with neither (and really only had a 
radial arm saw)  But he always used dimentioned lumber, and got good enough
joining results (for his projects) on his RAS.  These were not fine woodworking
projects, but he never got to that level. In his own words "I'm a 2x4 kinda guy".
He admittedly never had the patience that I seem to think I'm going to develop by
spending tons of bucks on tools....:) 

Don't kid yourself - If you are doing fine woodworking projects, you need both, or 
you need to learn how to use hand tools to produce the same result.  


have fun!!! and be safe!


chip
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: micki@netcom.com (Michelle Stone)
Subject: Re: Vacuum hose reducers
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1993 19:24:35 GMT

"Bramel, Jim" <UKA004@UKCC.UKY.EDU> writes:

>I am surprised anyone would admit to owning anything Sears after the
>beating I took a few weeks ago about my Sears tools.

I admit that I have an old Sears router.  I am going to keep it until
I can afford a new one.  It works and turns the bits.  For a small
powered tool, it's okay.

MIchelle

-- 
micki@netcom.com

By the way.  I find myself to be a recent addition to the 
unemployment statistic.  I am a software manager living
in silicon valley.  If you know of an opportunity, please
let me know!


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mairet@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (Dennis Mairet)
Subject: Re: Hey! Lets have a survey....
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 21:17:02 GMT
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM Rochester




I really want to make several shaker dressers (like in the first NYW book).
I'm saving my dollars to buy the wood for that.  I have, however enough 
spare pine to make a similarly styled, matching nightstand.  I am also 
using this as "practice" for the dressers.  The construction techniques are
similar.

It will have solid sides, a drawer at the top, and an open shelf below the 
drawer.  I'm using clear pine for the sides, top, and drawer front.  I'm using
a low grade pine (with lots of knots) for all the other parts.  

These pieces will be going in my children's rooms.  I like the appearance of
partially painted furniture.  The top will be natural, but I would like the sides
and maybe the drawer front to have some colour.  I hate painting over the nice 
looking natural pine.  So, I am looking for some colourful stains.  I have seen 
some available in mailorder furniture kit catalogues.  They are not the right 
colors for my kids' rooms.  

QUESTION:  Does anyone know of a good source for colorful wood stains?  I am 
           looking for navy blue, and deep red (not primary red...too bright).


I have all the panels glued up now.  I will be planing and sanding the panels 
a little more before starting to join the panels.



-- 
Dennis Mairet 
IBM   Rochester, Minnesota
(507)253-5979
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bds@mbunix.mitre.org (Smith)
Subject: Re: Hey! Lets have a survey....
Organization: The MITRE Corporation, Bedford, MA
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 18:12:29 GMT

In article <1993Jan26.143645.15616@ra.msstate.edu> jcw1@Ra.MsState.Edu (Jeff C. Wilson) writes:
>3. turned 4 17" bowls from red gum.


I've seen numerous references to red gum, mostly in old furniture
plans, but I've never seen it.  Could you tell me more about it?

Barry
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: kam@apollo.HP.COM (Keith Marchington)
Subject: Re: Heavy Duty Griz...
Reply-To: kam@hpcvlx.cv.hp.com
Organization: UTD-CV Corvallis, OR
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 16:56:32 GMT

In article <147643@lll-winken.LLNL.GOV>, gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot) writes:
|> In article <93025.123242DXR8@psuvm.psu.edu>, DXR8@psuvm.psu.edu writes:
|> > 
|> > Has anyone purchased/used the
|> > G1023, and can they give me any comments, good or bad?
|> > 
|> I've got one.  It's a solid saw and the movements work easily.  Not as
|> good as the Unisaw, and the fence is ok, but not great.  Since you're close,
|> go look at it.  It's worth the time.  Whether you like the saw is
|> up to you.
|> 
|> G.
|> 

Well, I am also contemplating getting this saw.  I drove up to a
fellow netter and fellow HP'er's place on Saturday and checked his out
(Thanks Dave!).  I will definitely be buying that saw.  The table and
base are excellent!

The fence OTOH, leaves much to be desired.  It deflects easily, does
not work very smoothly, has a poor distance sighting mechanism and
generally is of inferior quality.  So I called up Griz and they will
ship the saw without the fence (Yay!) but will only knock $50 off the
price for deleting the fence (boo!)  But even with a $250 Beismeyer
added to the cost, I think this saw will come close in capability to
the Unisaw (copied, but never equalled you know!)

All that's left is just a small matter of money!

Keith Marchington
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: dbsjwb@Edm.Arco.COM (James Bielak)
Subject: Re: Workbench
Originator: dbsjwb@doofus
Reply-To: bielak@arco.com
Organization: ARCO Exploration and Production Technology
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 15:07:03 GMT


The Klausz bench took me perhaps 120 hours, compared to the 80 hours
mentioned for the Frid bench. A reader admonished me that the list of
tools I stated were needed for the project, were instead the tools I
had USED for the project. Point taken.

jwb
-- 
bielak@Arco.COM             ARCO Exploration and Production Technology
james.bielak@Edm.Arco.COM   2300 W. Plano Parkway PRC-D1148A
(214) 754-6184              Plano, TX 75075

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