HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: dtn@po.CWRU.Edu (Donald T. Noda)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: 231 Turbo Question
Date: 1 Oct 1992 15:30:19 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


	Would it be feasible to install an aftermarket or junk
yard turbocharger on my GM231?  Or wuold I have to change my
rear end and/or suspension?  Cost?  I have to rebuild my engine
soon anyway so that would be the time to install a turbo
charger.  Also my suspension doesn't really handle well.
Suggestions??
		
			Thanks!!

			  Don
-- 
           __    _______       _        |
      ----/  \  /__  __/  /\  / /------ |216-754-1981
    -----/ /\ \   / /    / /\/ /-----   |dtn@cwns4.ins.cwru.edu
 ------/_____/  /_/    /_/  \/----      |   
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: twong@civil.ubc.ca (Thomas Wong)
Subject: Rough cold starts
Organization: Dept. of Civil Engineering, U.B.C., Vancouver, B.C., Canada
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 1992 21:11:29 GMT


Hello everyone. For the past couple of months, my Talon has been having
rough cold starts, even during summer. By this I mean it would crank
but sounds like it's not kicking in (firing?). And even when it does,
the engine would go gough... clonk clonk ... like it's going to die
for awhile befor kicking in and get the normal roar of the idling
engine. So I just took my car in for its 25K Km (Canadian use metric
:) ) servicing and told them about the problem. When I got it back,
they said that it was fixed. When ask what they did and what the problem
was, they said that it was fixed under the normal servcing work. It
covered my problem. But I asked for specifics again and they could
only say... maybe it was this and maybe that. So I was suspicious.
But looking at the checkoff sheet, it did say that they topped off
my battery. So I waited till the next morning to test the cold start 
again and it was rough, but better. Nothing like before my rough start
problem when the car would justturn over with no problem. So I left it.
It's been a week and it's gotten worst again. I'd have to turn her
over twice before she kicks in. So I'll have to bring my car back.
Not sure if I trust my dealer so I'd like to hear if anyone has any
opinion on this before I bring her in. Thanks.

Thomas.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: D1SAR@VM1.CC.UAKRON.EDU (Steve Rimar)
Subject: Platinum Plugs
Organization: The University of Akron
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 18:25:01 GMT

What are the advantages of platinum plugs over the standard spark plugs?
 
>What are the advantages of platinum plugs over a standard plug?
>
>
>* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
>*                                                                       *
>*  STEVE RIMAR                       INTERNET: D1SAR@VM1.CC.UAKRON.EDU  *
>*  INFORMATION SERVICES              BITNET:   D1SAR@AKRONVM            *
>*  THE UNIVERSITY OF AKRON                                              *
>*  AKRON, OHIO  44325           "ANY FOOL CAN CRITICIZE, CONDEMN, AND   *
>*                                COMPLAIN-- AND MOST DO."               *
>* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
From: wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 18:19:17 GMT
Subject: Re: Buick Regal 3.8  Gas mileage????????
Organization: Hewlett Packard - Boise, ID
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

My old '81 Firebird with Buick 231 V-6 got 28-29 mpg highway.  I know
it's not a Regal but the Regal should be pretty close...

Wes Fujii

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Wes Fujii               *           JAPANESE BUSINESS MOTTO           *
* Boise, Idaho            *        You can buy anything you want        *
* wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com *             with a lot of money             *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
From: simnet@ssc-vax.boeing.com (Mark R Poulson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: battery loading question
Summary: Ampere-hours
Date: 30 Sep 92 23:18:12 GMT
Organization: Boeing Defense and Space Group, Seattle WA

In article <1992Sep29.055017.6829@sequent.com>, battan@sequent.com (Jim Battan) writes:
> I have a Lexus SC300 that has a 210 watt stereo system.  The manual says
> to not play the stereo "for long periods of time with the ignition off."
> I'm looking for more quantitative data on how long I can keep the stereo
> on (at about half power) without signicantly draining the battery--just
> before the point it wouldn't recharge completely the next morning when
> I drive the car.

What you need to know is the ampere-hour rating of your battery. In the old
days, this was listed on the battery. Now you just get cold cranking amps
and reserve capacity (if you're lucky). Reserve capacity is related to ampere-
hours, but I don't remember the relationship (I think its minutes at a constant
discharge rate of 10 amps).

However, in the old days, car batteries were typically 40 to 50 A-H. You really
don't want to use more than 50% of that to prevent damage to the battery plates
and you should be even more convervative if you want enough juice to start your
car (you'll need more when the engine and battery are at or below 40 degrees F).
Heavily discharging a lead-acid battery and letting it sit is the worst thing
you could possibly do to it.

So, assume your battery is 40 A-H and you're willing to use up 15 A-H to run
the stereo. Fifteen amps for one hour will let you supply 15*12 or 180 watts to
your stereo. Your amps will draw more power than they produce, and make sure
to count every amp (left and right, maybe additional pairs for rear and doors,
etc). A total of 50 watts from all the amps should be pretty loud, except for
power required to pound the woofers. Also, are you going to be listening to it
inside the car or out. You'll waste a lot of power trying to hear it out of the
car, so adding a set of external speakers may help out. Otherwise, raise the
trunklid to let more of the sound out.

If you anticipate doing this for an hour or more, I would definitely try
to start the car when you're close to done or every hour. Let the engine
charge the battery for 10 minutes or so, since it can put 20 to 30 amps into
the battery as long as you don't have headlights, window defoggers, 210 WATT
STEREOs, etc stealing all of your alternator's output (which is probably close
to 100A at 2500 RPM, half that at idle). This also helps keep the engine warm
which reduces the amount of electricity needed to crank it over the next hour.

If you don't do this, I'd either buy a decent stereo for the garage, invest
in a battery charger, or hope that it is warm the next morning!

		Mark
From: walkerr@yaya.WPI.EDU (Robert A Walker)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 351M
Date: 28 Sep 92 22:14:42 GMT
Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute
NNTP-Posting-Host: yaya.wpi.edu


> A leaking intake manifold gasket or a corroded intake manifold face is a 
>potential culprit. Especially with aluminum intakes, poor maintenance can
>lead to corrosion due to the galvanic couple present.

When i took it apart there didn't seem to be any leaks,  and its an iron 
intake.

 The aluminum gets
>chowed. Are the sealing surfaces on the intake-to-head surface 
>clean-n-shiny or nasty? Also inspect the underside of the intake for
>signs of a pinhole leak. 

The intake was very nasty,  all rusted and really sad looking.  When I rebuild i plan on installing some sort of performance manifold,  Edelbrock probably because they are fairly cheap and i haven't heard anyone complain about them.

If none of the above look likely there's the
>possibility of a crack in the water jacket down in the block (joy).

Does this require a new block or is it repairable.  Forgive me for my lack
of knowledge about some parts of an engine, but all my learning comes
from doing, since i had a Jeep Wagoneer i did a lot of fixing.  I've just
never had a problem this big before. 
 
Thanx for the advice.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: crow@bnr.ca (LeRoy Pick)
Subject: Re: Ford Probe GT specs & questions
Reply-To: crow@bnr.ca (LeRoy Pick)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 92 16:09:04 GMT

>In <1992Sep15.230830.2625@tellab5.tellabs.com> mikes@tellabs.com (Michael D. Schwartz) writes:

>>In article <nataraja.716126277@lead5> nataraja@rtsg.mot.com (Kumaravel Natarajan) writes:
>>>>
>>>>  1)  I've got a 1992 GT with the 2.2L 4cyl turbo engine.  All the ratings
>>>>      I've seen give it around 145 hp.  Is this accurate?  My roommate 
>>>>      thinks it should be closer to 180 or so after being in it.

>>The last time I looked, I though that the horsepower was being quoted at
>>4500 rpm or so (it looked fishy to me, that's why I remember it). That seems
>>like an unusually low rpm for the power peak on a 4-banger.

To apply my $0.02 worth ($0.017 American), the Probe GT is quoted as
having the horsepower figure you indicate, i.e. 145@???? rpm.  However,
it is considered by C/D (Car and Driver) to be "the most powerful 145 hp
ever".  The reason for this is, I understand it, that the engine has an
impressive torque rating (203 lb-ft @ 3300 rpm I think) which
allows this puppy to haul ass in short order, much better than the 
straight horsepower figures would indicate.  

C/D labelled the Probe GT as a beautiful "rolling start" machine, based
on their 5-60 mph test ratings.  This test prevents you from doing the usual
"rev like crazy then drop the clutch" 0-60 acceleration tests.  When matched
against the other speedy 4-bangers (article "Fired-up Fours") it did the
5-60 as fast as any, give or take .2 of a second, and just about all the
competition had higher horsepower ratings, often in lighter vehicles.

As a comparison, this is the same torque rating attributed to the Eagle
Talon Tsi AWD Turbo model.  In the Talon, however, the torque peaks much
higher in the rpm band (around 5000 I believe, but that is very rough
recollection) and it is also rated at 195 hp.

All this indicates that the torque figures are just as important (some 
people have told me more important) than the horespower ratings when 
comparing power trains.

I ramble . . .


-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
LeRoy Pick              |net:  LeRoy.Pick@bnr.ca
P.O. Box 3511 Station C |--------------------------------------------------
Ottawa, Ontario         |Reality is defined by the limit of my perceptions.
Canada K1Y 4H7          |Anything else is a figment of your imagination.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: testing please ignore
From: system@fallout.lonestar.org
Date: 29 Sep 92 23:37:22 CST
Distribution: na
Organization: DECUS DFWLUG BBS *Dallas*TX*

Testing please ignore

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: lester@naomi.b23b.ingr.com (Les Bartel)
Subject: Re: Brake problems (was Cold = Super braking power??)
Reply-To: lester@naomi.b23b.ingr.com
Organization: Dazix, An Intergraph Company
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 17:57:43 GMT

In article <BvED7z.GFF@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu>, msingh@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (The Supreme Commander) writes:
|> >>tidbit. Whenever I'm at a light with my foot on the brake, the car
|> >>idles roughly. If I take my foot off the brake (Not that I'd be on the
|> >>brake if there was no incline...) the engine idles more smoothly.
|> >
|> >>I have yet to hear anyone give me a good explanation on that little
|> >>problem.
|> >I'll give it a try...
|> >
|> >When you put your foot on the brake you place about a 120 Watt load on
|> >the alternator because of the brake lights.  This causes the idle
|> >speed to drop a little (50 rpm) and the engine runs a little rougher.

Not very likely.

|> The only problem with this idea would be this: If we assume that the
|> load on the alternator is the problem, turning on the headlights
|> should then produce the same problem. However, it does not. In fact,
|> even turning on the A/C doesn't cause the engine to idle any rougher.

There might be a leak in the vacumn assist.  You could try disconnecting
and plugging the vacumn hose that goes to the diaphram unit.  If the
problem goes away, there must be a hole in the diaphram.  Note that it
will take significantly more pedal pressure to apply the brakes without
the vacumn assist.  A small hole in the diaphram could still allow some
vacumn assist (power brakes) and allow enough air into the carburator/
intake to mess up the fuel/air mixture.

 - les

-- 
Les Bartel			lester@naomi.b23b.ingr.com
Intergraph Corporation
Huntsville, AL			(205) 730-8537

There are three kinds of people in the world:
Those who can count, and those who can't.
From: dick@hpscit.sc.hp.com (Dick Lucas)
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 17:39:25 GMT
Subject: Re: Oil return valve
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Clara, CA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

The symptoms you describe are indicative of a hydraulic lifter in the valve
train which is leaking down over time.  The lifters pump up when the engine
is running and take up all the slack in the valve train.  If the check valve
in the lifter is leaking, the lifter collapses when the engine is off.  When
the engine is started, the collapsed lifter will introduce a large clearance
between the cam and the lifter and the engine will knock..click...clatter
until the oil pressure builds up and the lifter re-inflates.

In case all this talk about valves is confusing, the "valves" in question
here refers to the intake and exhaust valves for the combustion chamber.

Dick Lucas
From: ai065@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Thomas Hill)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Ford Ranger Blinker/Brake Light Doesn't Work!
Date: 2 Oct 1992 02:57:57 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc10.ins.cwru.edu


   I've got a problem with my right rear turn signal and brake light on my
83 Ford Ranger. Both stopped working a few weeks back. I replaced the bulb
with no luck. I then used a test probe (light bulb with two leads) to test
the wires right before the plug. There are three wires at this right rear:
A brown wire to the light which comes on when your lights are on. A orange
(?) wire with a stripe in it which goes to the same light to power the turn
and braking functions. And a black wire which serves as a ground to both
wires. All three wires go to the same light bulb (one of those two-level (?)
type lights).
 
 Anyway, this bulb will light when my lights are one, but will not light up
for braking or turn signal functions. The yellow wire is the suspect wire
here. I cut into it before the light plug and found no power. I then checked
it at the wiring harness plug (right under the center of the rear bumper) and
found no power there. My question is where to check next? I traced it all the
way to the engine compartment and could find no breaks. I'm at a point now
where the wires plug into another wiring harness on the left fender inside
the engine compartment. I have yet to look at this plug, but figured I'd ask
now exactly where else the problem could be besides there? I would guess the
next step would be inside the truck somewhere under the dash. Can anybody
give me an idea of what I might be looking for? Thanks in advance...
 
   Tom
-- 
George Bush? He doesn't have a clue anymore. Bill Clinton? A slick smile and
a pandering style. Neither one is being realistic about what it is going to
take. The answer..........? ROSS FOR BOSS! VOTE FOR ROSS PEROT FOR PRESIDENT!
The Cryptozoology Information Network. Want on our Email mailing list? Amiga!
From: dye@i88.isc.com (Ken R. Dye )
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: DOHC on a V8 possible?
Date: 5 Oct 92 19:25:53 GMT
Article-I.D.: i88.1992Oct05.192553.23743
Organization: INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation, Naperville, IL

In article <390.88.uupcb@chaos.lrk.ar.us> dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)  writes:
>
>-> Awwww, c'mon bob. Vettes haven't had live axles since '62. BMW's
>-> don't have them, T-bird SC's don't have them, Aston Martins,Jags,
>-> Z-cars, Ferraris,Lambos,Porsches,etc...don't have them. Only
>-> Mustangs, F-cars, Are there any others?
>
><cue in choir music>  Buick Grand National GNX.

	NASCAR.  IROC.  TRANS-AM.  

But on anything other than a smooth track, live axles suck.  Rough
ride, axle tramp, etc. should not be part of '90s cars...shame
on GM for the new firebirds/camaros!

--Ken
-- 
Ken R. Dye				an optimist is a guy		 |
Interactive Systems Corp., Chicago	that has never had		 | 
(800) LAI-UNIX x341			much experience			 |
dye@i88.isc.comm						archy	 |
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: New inexpensive pre-oiler
Date: 6 Oct 92 19:46:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> My only claim about a block heater is that it makes your car easier
-> to start in cold weather.  To infer that I recommend it instead of
-> regular oil changes or that I don't change my own oil, is a silly
-> conclusion, not to mention patronizing.

 Since the message you're referring to went at least a day before yours,
I doubt I was inferring anything or patronizing anyone.  I'm a helluva
guy, but I'm not not prescient.

 However, if you wish to feel patronized, please do so by all means.
From: ljb@parkcity.dr.att.com (BLO54620-BonhamLJ(DR2194)240)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Chysler Stage VI big block heads
Date: 28 Sep 92 20:36:09 GMT

Has anyone had direct experience with the new Stage VI aluminum heads now
available for Chrysler big blocks from Mopar Performance?
I'm currios as to how they compare with prep'ed iron castings and or the new
"Indy" heads.  I'm considering using them on a 510-540 CID stroked wedge motor.
If any body has experience with this displacement range and has any advice,
please chip in.

Thanks,
Celtus Outacontrolus

"Once more into the breach dear friends!  Once more, or close it all up with our
English dead."
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: btbg1194@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Bradley T Banko)
Subject: white smoke, burning oil, 96,000 miles?
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 23:15:12 GMT

Hi.  This is probably a pretty basic question, but I would appreciate
some pointers.  I have a 1985 Buick Century with 96,000 miles on a 
4 cylinder engine.  I have had the car since 50,000 miles and have 
tried to take good care of it by getting oil changes every 3,000 miles
or so, etc.  

Recently it has been spitting out some white smoke (from the exhaust)
for a short time when starting.  I don't know very much about engines,
but I suspect that this has something to do with oil leaking around the
engine cylinders and getting into the fuel mixture or something.
The oil level hasn't been dropping very noticeably, and I haven't needed
to add oil between changes yet.  I am a graduate student, and don't
drive the car very much.

Is this potentially a serious problem?  I am willing to invest in some
maintenance when it becomes necessary and if it is likely to get me
another 20-50,000 miles out of the vehicle.

Thanks in advance for your comments.

Brad Banko

-- 
Brad Banko;  Dept of Physics;  U of Illinois;  b-banko@uiuc.edu
=========================================================================
Tatiana Gutsu for President!                     73 de kb8cne @ n9lnq.il
From: shyguy@ocf.berkeley.edu (David S. Shy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: engine swapping and etc.
Date: 28 Sep 1992 01:53:24 GMT
Organization: U.C. Berkeley Open Computing Facility
NNTP-Posting-Host: sandstorm.berkeley.edu

I've got a 1978 Pontiac Le Mans.  It's got quite a bit of mileage on it
already.  Although it is in relatively good condition, it is no longer
worth anything since it is the base model and it is not exactly a     
collector's item.

I would like to keep this car for at least another six years.  (I find that
the local law enforcement doesn't look at me when I speed in it whereas all
my friends w/ the "sporty" looking cars are getting tickets left and right :)

It's got the carburated 3.8 L V6 and an automatic transmission.  I am 
considering swapping in a V8 (remanufactured or otherwise) and junking
the automatic and replace it w/ a manual (not exaclty sure where to get
one at the present moment)

I realize that switching from auto ----> to manual is going to be much
easier than doing the reverse.  Also, since i'm going to keep on using
a carburated engine, the entire job shouldn't be to difficult.  

Does anyone out there have comments?  I would also appreciate it if
someone can recommend any books on this kind of project. 

David Shy
shyguy@ocf.berkeley.edu

"driving should be something that you like to do not have to do."

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: koziarzw@lonex.rl.af.mil (Walter Koziarz)
Subject: Re: DOHC, 4v/cyl on a Diesel possible? (wa
Organization: RL
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 92 22:33:53 GMT

In article <1992Sep22.041849.9919@sol.UVic.CA> atovorni@engr.UVic.CA writes:
>In article 11340@koko.csustan.edu, james@koko.csustan.edu (Jonas Grumpy) writes:
>>In article <ij01183@pro-haven.cts.com> shadow@pro-haven.cts.com (Blaine Hufnagle) writes:

>>>Not stupid at all.  The Cummins "Triple Nickel" (555 c.i.d.) engines that we
>>>use in the busses at work are four-valve heads.  I saw this the other day
>>>when one was in getting new cylinder heads.  I was impressed.
>>>(and this is in a diesel engine whose design is at least 10 years old.)


>>I beleive the extra set of valves is used to enhance engine braking.

>   That extra set of valves is indeed an engine brake. This is also known
>as a Jake Brake. You can hear them in action when big rigs come off a freeway
>exit. It sounds like the exhaust being disconnected from the muffler

Well, you got the *sound* correct... but every Jacobs Engine Brake (aka Jake
Brake) I've ever seen has its mechanism in the overhead, not an actual extra
set of valves...  It works by unseating the exhaust valve at about TDC on
compression and wasting the energy used to compress the charge (we went all
through this in the 'why Diesels don't produce 'engine-braking' discussion').
Cummins has several engine families with more than 2 valves per cylinder,
btw...  Also, a Jake Brake is an aftermarket add-on item...

Walt K.