HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: laurahal@microsoft.com (Laura Halliday)
Subject: Re: Carbs vs Fuel Injection
Date: 08 Jan 93 16:53:44 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corporation

In article <1ij2l6INNic9@shelley.u.washington.edu> dali@stein.u.washington.edu (David A. Lee) writes:
>In article <1if1qmINN259@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy) writes:
>>
>>the AFC FI on my bus (can't remember which "-tronic" it is) is FAR simpler
>>and easier than the earlier electronic FI systems which were used as early
>>as '68 on the type III's.

That's L-Jetronic. It uses the air flow through the intake manifold
(hence AFC) to tell how the engine is breathing. The injection on
Type 3s is D-Jetronic, which uses manifold pressure to get the same
information.

L-Jetronic (used on injected Beetles, too) is certainly more accessible,
while a `tune-up' for D-Jetronic consists of setting the idle speed and
throttle valve switch. Unless you have one of those nifty testing
machines they show in the manual, plus a fuel pressure gauge and a
CO meter...local VW mechanics tell me that they hardly ever use their
testing machines anyway, since the older FI systems tend to be an
all-or-nothing proposition: either the car runs perfectly, or it
doesn't run at all.

Despite the profusion of wires and sensors, I find the older FI
systems provide much better fuel usage and performance for not much
more complication - I never did get the automatic choke on my (now
deceased) Super Beetle to work right. But then I haven't needed to
buy a new injector or computer for my Fastback yet, either.

...laura
From: amh2@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (ALOIS M. HIMSL)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: 85 GLI-Platinum Plugs?
Date: 12 Jan 93 23:39:26 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

In article <29415@oasys.dt.navy.mil>, odell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Bernard O'Dell) w
rites:
>I just recently replaced regular Bosch WD7DC plugs with Bosch
>Platinum Plugs-On the box it reads "If you don't immediately
>notice the difference in these plugs, we'll buy them from you"
>
>"Supposedly"the best --cooler-hotter etc.-under all conditions.
>
>The "old" plugs had been in for around 16K, and the car just
>starting running a little rough.
>
>The difference was noticeable-but my question is for anybody
>out there in netland-
>
>Are platinum plugs really any better than the regular copper plugs,
>and why?  The prices are almost the same--$13.26 for four for the
>platinum.
>
>I've heard so much talk about the pros and cons of platinum plugs-
>some say don't use them, others say there is very little difference,
>I've never heard anyone brag about platinum plugs.
>
>What do you think?
>
>Bern O'Dell--
>
I put platinum plugs in both my 1983 GTI and recently installed them in my
1989 GTI 16V. I didn't notice the difference. What took me by surprise was the
fact that the original plugs had 3 prongs. I never saw that before.
AL Himsl
Xref: sparky rec.autos.vw:8021 rec.autos.tech:17612
From: rkast2+@pitt.edu (Rajiv K Agrawala)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw,rec.autos.tech
Subject: [W] OXS Removal - an answer!
Date: 8 Jan 93 22:30:54 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.vw
Organization: University of Pittsburgh

Hi, gang! I know this point may or may not have been beaten about on
this group time and time again, but I thought some of you might find
this interesting - I sure as hell did after trying for 6 months to
remove my OXS on my '87 Fox, now with 87kmi. 

I went to my "friendly" (read - "local") VW dealer today hoping they
would at least be able to remove the seized OXS sensor from the
exhaust manifold. I had purchased a replacement sensor in April, when
I somehow had the idea that I could actually remove the OXS sensor. I
couldn't, not even when I finally did get the right wrench (22mm
12-pt) upon which to apply my 240 lbs of superhuman strength. :-)

I went there not expecting them to be able to do it, either. I
expected them to come back and say, "New manifold." (Which is why I
asked last week about the manifold.) To my amazement, my car came back
with my new sensor installed, with no drilling marks.

I insisted that I would not leave the dealer until I was told how the
OXS was removed. The tech told me, "Oh, you just gotta have the right
wrench." 

"Yeah, right...well, I HAVE the right wrench! I have at least a few of
them, in fact! You must have done something else! No air wrench?"

"No, just a 22mm wrench."

Then he explained to me the secret of how he got it off. The sensor
area needs to be heated, either by running and/or torch. Then, you
spray lots of penetrating oil into the slight crack, where it gets
sucked in by the pressure drop and by the cooling. This gets the
lubricant to the threads. (I remember hearing that drilling holes just
to the threads is a good idea). Keep doing this repeatedly and keep
applying the wrench. Sooner or later (took them 1 hr) it'll come off.

Hope this helps either now or in the future.

Cheers,
-- 
/========================================================================\
| Vishnu K. Agrawala     vka@unixd.cis.pitt.edu     Univ. of Pittsburgh  |
| These statements are opinions based on nothing in particular, and      |
| any and all disclaimers against offense and damage apply. Thanks.      |
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: m17108@mwunix (Jason Douglas)
Subject: Re: What's up with that...
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean VA
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 22:12:46 GMT

In article <2884203EC400.2.0@sscl.uwo.ca> 2884203EC400@sscl.uwo.ca writes:
>
>I've had my jetta for a while, an now, in the style of Cliff Claven I 
>ask...
>
>
>Why is it that the radio does not go off with the key?  What's up with 
>that?  While I enjoy being able to sing to the radio all of the way up the 
>front steps and into my house, I hate coming out to the car in the morning 
>to find that the tape has auto-reversed itself for twelve hours.

Many folks have complained about the radio, and I recall rumors VW has changed
this in the new models.  However, once you get used to it, its great!  It
makes particular sense if you are in the habit of shutting the engine
down at long lights or at other times when you might not be moving for a while.
It is also nice to be able to use the radio without a key (e.g., in a camper
with children.  Mom and dad can relax because the kids won't start the engine).

But really now, don't you turn off the tv set or computer yourself?  These don't
go off when you turn of the light!  So, there is a logical basis for the way
vw wired your car.  The problem is that other manufactures wired their products
differently and you are just now getting used to your vw.  Remember -- it's not
a car...,

Jason (jdouglas@mitre.org)

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: Re: VW Bug Front Tires should be 18 lb?
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 02:59:45 GMT

In article <1993Jan7.201736.25639@nntp.nta.no>, BARANSKI@veamf1.nusc.navy.mil (Jim Baranski) writes:
>It says in the glovebox of my 72 bug, that the front tires should be 18 lb?
>
>Is that right?  That sounds terribly low.  Will 18 lb make a difference from
>the usual 32 lb?
>
>Jim Baranski
Tire pressure affects a number of things. Tires are actually springs. They
absorb some of the road bumps, the springs take care of the rest. By
increasing the air pressure, you are stiffening up the front suspension.
Too stiff of a front suspension and your bug will go from slight
oversteer to heavy understeer with a resulting loss of control under
the right conditions.

The amount of pressure is related to the weight being pushed down
on the tires. The bug is a light car, even more so is its front end
. By increasing the pressure you will cause the tire to bow out rather
than sit flat, thereby causing premature wear of your tires.

If anything go up to 20 psi, but not 32.

Ric
From: jb@falstaff.MAE.CWRU.Edu (Jim Berilla)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Help! Bizzarre gas tank problems!!
Date: 5 Jan 1993 03:14:03 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio, USA
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: falstaff.mae.cwru.edu

In article <1993Jan4.120326.1@fnala.fnal.gov>, tannenba@fnala.fnal.gov writes:
|> I have a very strange problem with my '82 Jetta (65k miles-- 30k since I've had
|> it). The gas gauge was stuck about three weeks ago, and went down slowly. I
|> accidently backed into something (about 1-2 mph) and that seemed to knock it
|> loose. However, the next time I went to get gas I couldn't get as much gas in
|> as I thought-- it has a 10.5 gallon tank and I could only get about 8.5 gals in
|> ( I was thinking should get more like 9-10). I assumed it was some problem with
|> the gas gauge and decided to go by the mileage. This was ok, until I ran out of
|> gas. :( When I filled up the tank, I was only able to get 9 gallons of gas.
|> Somehow I've lost 1.5-2 gallons of capacity in my tank. Anyone have any ideas?
|> I'm a grad student so replacing the tank isn't much of a option.....

Something similar happened to my '80 Scirocco.  After getting my car fixed
from a front-end collision, the gas gauge got stuck.  Finally, with ~400
miles on a tank of gas, and the gauge still reading half full, I ran out of
gas.  There was a loud "whoosh" when I unscrewed the gas cap, and I could
put only 6 gallons in the tank.

The body shop had capped off the vent line that used to go to a charcoal
cannister.  With no vent, the gas tank collapsed as the gas was sucked out
of it.

My solution (which I don't necessarily recommend) was to put an air hose
on the vent and blow the tank out.  I knew that I overdid it when the
back seat popped up.  Not only did I get the original tank volume back,
but I could fit an extra gallon in it.  The extra 25 miles on a tank was
nice, but the back seat never did fit right after that.  It just rocked
over this big bump whenever someone tried to sit on it.
	
-- 
      Jim Berilla / jb@falstaff.MAE.cwru.edu / +1 216 368 6776
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Using Brakes....a Clarification
From: emd@ham.almanac.bc.ca
Date: Sun, 10 Jan 93 17:29:04 PST
Distribution: world
Organization: Robert Smits

rgolen@UMASSD.EDU writes:

> For 95% of driving, stopping is not that hard on your 
> brakes. Why downshift? 
> 
> I admit, there are times when either you or your car
> have exceeded their abilities, and you need some
> help...then downshift. But downshifting everytime
> you want to slowdown or stop is unnecessary.
> 
> Ric


Downshifting when slowing down is just good driving practice, as you are 
then in the correct gear to accelerate if necessary. If you don't 
downshift, you may not be able to get out of the way of some guy running 
a red light, or whatever. It doesn't mean necessarily that you are 
relying solely on engine braking to do the slowing down.


Robert Smits            | Water? I don't need no steenking water!
emd@ham.almanac.bc.ca   |
From: mep@reatta.camb.inmet.com (Mark Polhamus)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: [W] Hesitating GTI
Keywords: GTI fuel-injection
Date: 10 Jan 93 23:31:34 GMT
Organization: Intermetrics Inc.

I'm having a problem with my '87 GTI (8-valve), and the symptoms are so
distinctive I bet someone will know what the problem is... (even if the
mechanics can't seem to nail it down)

When the engine is cold (40F or lower), it hesitates in acceleration at
about 2800 - 3200 rpm.  Badly hesitates - loses all power & throws me
forward against my seat belt!  I can hold the throttle open, but it will
not pick up power until I depress the clutch, or the rpms fall below
about 1800.  If I keep the rpms low I can drive fairly normally, or I can
keep the rpms high and race around chirping the tires!

The dealer and another shop have looked at it.  The shop says the fuel
injection distributor (or whatever the real name is) needs to be
replaced for $400.  He says it is so messed up from dirt in the gas that
it cannot be cleaned - I should have replaced my fuel filter more
often.

Does that sound like an accurate diagnosis?  Any ideas are welcome.


-- Mark Polhamus
-- mep@inmet.inmet.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: 56 Bug....short report...
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 21:25:53 GMT

UPS came by about 2 hours ago and dropped off my fuel tap!! HOORAY...
I immediately dropped everything I was doing (I can't delay
gratification), put on some grungy clothes and headed down to the
garage. Within 45 minutes, the tap was in, new fuel lines in place,
tank bolted in, trunk liner in place, and the powerpack for
the Blaupunkt bolted back in.

It now draws fuel from its own tank! Still haven't found any 
volunteers who want the ultimate experience of replacing
my axle boots...so I will do those next Monday...unless
any volunteers show up...   :-)

Ric
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mac9067@cs.rit.edu (Mark Collien)
Subject: Re: Help: 85 Golf water leaks when rain and flickering coolant light.
Followup-To: rec.autos.vw
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 16:06:11 GMT

In article <1993Jan4.193130.11299@ee.eng.ohio-state.edu>,
jalics@sample.eng.ohio-state.edu (Laci J. Jalics) wrote:
> 
> The water leak may come from a clog in a drain hole.  My 84 Rabbit GTI had the
> same problem but more serious.  When you open the hood, right above the firewall
> there is a cheap plastic water collector.  There is a small hole on the bottom
> which directs the water down and to the ground.  If that hole is plugged up with
> some leaves or something, the collector will overflow and go into the car.  
> 
> I hope it helps.
> 
> 
> laci
> 
My '85 Golf leaked on the passenger side in heavy rains, it was finally
traced to a hole in the plastic liner on the passenger door.  Also check
the door
drains, they can get clogged too.

-- Mark


------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mark Collien
Interactive Media Laboratory
Rochester Institute of Technology
mac9067@cs.rit.edu  -or-  mac9067@ritvax.bitnet
716.475.6625
716.475.5804 fax
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: coldje@cc.uvcc.edu
Subject: Needs new fuel pump?
Organization: Utah Valley Community College
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 17:39:03 GMT

I'm thinking about buying a 66 VW bug.  It's cheap.  One problem
though, there seems to be gas in the oil.  The current owner is
clue-less and wants it out of his garage fast.  Am I off the
mark by thinking that the fuel pump needs to be replaced and is
leaking gas into the cankcase?

Thanks in advance.
S. Jeff Cold
jeffco@fac.uvcc.edu


Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: harling@miki.pictel.com (Dan Harling)
Subject: Re: cracked windshield
Organization: PictureTel Corporation
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 21:35:22 GMT

In article <Jan.4.19.10.07.1993.29622@cesl.rutgers.edu> boubez@cesl.rutgers.edu (Toufic Boubez) writes:
>
>Hi there. I know this has been discussed before, but I didn't archive any
>of it. I cracked my windshield during the holidays. I know there are
>products that are supposed to fix it without having to replace the whole
>windshield. Has anybody used any of them? Any recommendations? I also read
>here somewhere that some insurance companies will reimburse the entire
>amount for the procedure if you don't replace the windshield. Any truth to
>theses rumours?

The only kits I have seen are specifically for "bullseyes", which start
at a single point and have only a few short radiating cracks over a
small area.  There is usually a central hole into the glass with this
type of crack, which is used to fill the gaps in the glass with a
transparent compound.  I used one of these kits with moderate success,
although it didn't fill in the entire length of a particularly long
radiating crack.

These kits are generally single-application, although it would not be
terribly difficult to use one on two or three holes in succession.  I
have never seen a kit for linear cracks, because there is not always a
place into which the compound can be injected, and because even then it
would be difficult to get it to fill its entire length.
____________________________________________________________________________
Daniel A. Harling                        (harling@pictel.com)
PictureTel Corp.             Opinions expressed are not necessarily those of
Peabody, MA  01960                   PictureTel Corp. (so there!)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com (Bob Rusk)
Subject: Re: [W] What's up with that...
Reply-To: rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com
Organization: Harris Computer Systems Division
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 18:40:30 GMT
	<1993Jan06.102028.13927@wes.on.ca>
	<1993Jan6.182653.12938@wuecl.wustl.edu>

In article <1993Jan6.182653.12938@wuecl.wustl.edu>, christos@wucs1.wustl.edu (Christos Papadopoulos) writes:
>In article <1993Jan06.102028.13927@wes.on.ca> tomh@wes.on.ca (Tom Haapanen) writes:

>	[stuff deleted]

>>	R  1  3  5
>>	|  |  |  |
>>	| -+--+--+
>>	+/ |  |
>>	   2  4
>>
>>Now, my 914 shift pattern certainly takes more getting used to:  :)
>>
>>	R  2  4
>>	|  |  |
>>	+--+--+
>>	|  |  |
>>	1  3  5
>>
>>
>>[ \tom haapanen    "i don't even know what street canada is on" -- al capone ]
>>[ tomh@wes.on.ca                   "trust the programmer" -- ansi c standard ]
>>[ waterloo engineering software      "to thine own self be true" -- polonius ]

>Now the 914 shift pattern is what I like! It makes more sence IMHO to have
>2nd and 3rd with this configuration since they are the most used gears during
>spirited driving (for lack of a better term!). Anyone knows why most car
>companies opted for the first pattern? 

Stop-and-go city traffic?  That seems to be where most people do most
of their shifting (at least when not engaging in "spirited" driving).
And with the tall gearing in many of today's cars, you don't
frequently see 3rd in stop-and-go.

--
 Bob Rusk
 rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com
 My thoughts, probably not Harris'.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: steve@aurora.com (Steve Anderson)
Subject: [A] Ovals, running an engine outside the car, etc.
Organization: The Aurora Group
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 93 21:06:30 GMT

Engine out of the car:
I have run an engine outside of a car before. The extra transmission
(or just the bellhousing) trick is the way to go. As to why you
couldn't get it to actually start up, except for something silly like
a incorrectly connected wire, I would suspect the ad-hoc fuel system.
The cranking over of the motor (by the starter) often isn't enough to
suck enough gas to fill a totally dry fuel line (even a short one).
Try filling the carb bowl first, or spraying some starting fluid to
see if it will at least cough. (standard flammables warnings apply)

More Oval News: 
Today, I picked up license plates for my 1957 Bug. Besides the obvious
symbolism of a restoration nearing completion, it is especially worth
celebrating because as a result of the restoration, I (unfortunately)
had to swap pans, the kind of thing that really grinds the DMV
bureacracy. But, I would like to say publicly, that everybody I dealt
with at the DMV was super, and I got it titled with minimal hassles.
(I needed to share this sucess story with someone who appreciates it!)

Now, I just need to complete the interior, put in the windows, install
an engine, ... :-( Maybe by the spring.

Splitting the group: 
The only "split" that should be discussed in this group are
pre-mid-'53 Beetles. I hope this issue dies soon. If you feel you need
to lobby for a split, invest some time improving your news reading
efficiency by learning some new newsreader commands, or finding a
better newsreader.

--steve


-- 
 H. Stephen Anderson			 | email: steve@aurora.com
 The Aurora Group 			 | Phone: (415) 327-3001
 800 El Camino Real, Suite 200           | "If you are what you eat, then
 Menlo Park, California 94025            |  I'm dead meat..."  -- Timbuk 3
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang)
Subject: Re: decelerating by downshifting
Organization: Brandeis University
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 16:28:42 GMT

Just some random points about downshifting

When I downshift, I try to put _no_ wear on the clutch by matching
revs properly.  If done right, engine braking is occurs only after the
clutch is fully engaged and so no (clutch) wear comes from it.

Downshifting for modern hi perf driving is solely* to assist in
exiting turns.  That is, braking systems are so good that to stop
best, you just use the brakes properly.  The only thing left is to get
the engine and transmission ready to accelerate after slowing down.
In a rear wheel drive car, you might want to downshift to play around
with braking _balance_, but generally not in front wheel drivers.

-andy

*boy am I going to get into trouble for saying "solely"

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: troberts@zia.aoc.nrao.edu (Timothy Roberts)
Subject: [A] '71 Super has CO trouble
Summary: heater blows Carbon Monoxide 
Keywords: Grommets, engine compartment seal, pre-heated air hose
Organization: National Radio Astronomy Observatory, Socorro NM
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 93 18:23:24 GMT

Hey, Folks!
	I have the joy of breathing Carbon Monoxide everytime I drive
my '71 Super Bug.  My heater boxes are brand new.  My engine is
freshly rebuilt and runs like a top.  I can't smell a thing.  But when
I move this little wonder from point A to B, I get wacked out.  I yawn
a lot and clench my teeth involunterily.  I lose track of my velocity.
All for free!!  I assume this is because I don't have an engine
compartment seal, hot air hose grommets, and pre-heated air hose. Why?
Because the seal rotted away and the grommets and air hose didn't
exist when I purchased the car.  Sooo...  

Questions:
1) The pre-heated air hose slips onto the oil-bath air cleaner
housing, goes through the tin rear engine cover and goes WHERE?  I
can't find a place to attach the other end.
2) The old engine compartment seal is rotten and very hard.  I can't
see a way to replace it.  I was told a new one costs a mere $8.95 and
I was told "you just remove the rear engine cover."  Huh?
3) Why does my bug blow fumes even when the heater boxes are closed?

-Tim



Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Re: (w) speedometer is jumpy
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 16:45:05 GMT

In article <C0ow3E.7E@umassd.edu>, rgolen@UMASSD.EDU writes:
|> In article <C0o39D.9C3@acsu.buffalo.edu>, v129qp43@ubvmsd.cc.buffalo.edu (Hugh Jarvis - Anthropology Dept.) writes:
|> >Anyone else have a speedo needle that is not all that steady?
|> >Mine tends to be a little jumpy at various speeds, mostly higher
|> >ones.  I thought it might relate to tire bounce/spin ie. uneven
|> >speed due to slippage in front tires....  but I wonder if it
|> >may be something in the cable or the speedo itself.  Anyone
|> >have any experience here?   Thanks.
|> >  Hugh Jarvis C129QP43@UBVM
|> 
|> Check to see if the cable is bent at any sharp angles. Another
|> possibility is that the grease inside of the cable is starting
|> to dry up and binding the cable. Pull the cable off of the 
|> back of the speedo and shoot some WD40 down it.

I would be more inclined to get some speedo lube (with graphite)
at the parts store.  WD-40 is too much of a penetrating oil and
not really intended for 1500 rpm (at 60 mph) shaft lube.

Otherwise I agree with Ric.

Mark