HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: dilmore@cray.com (Robert J. Dilmore)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Another secret recall
Date: 19 Aug 92 16:31:32 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.


   I recently found out about two secret recalls on Passats. You know
the ones they call "This item will be handled on a case by case basis".
   They both relate to tires on the Passat. The first one is called
diagonal tire wear on Passats not upgraded with new stub axle. The other
relates to high tire wear on Passats with Contis.
   After sitting down with the regional rep. I was able to cut the deal
that they would pay for 50% of ANY new tire including installation. I   
decided on the Yoko AVS u+4, even though they are H rated I don't think 
I will be reguarly travelling over 130 mph. The u+4's are a quieter tire 
with much more wet abilities than the Contis + they are good for 40,000
miles and the Contis only lasted 15,000.

Robert
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: hvozda@wilbur.psu.edu (Eric Hvozda)
Subject: Re: Vanagon tire replacement
Organization: Penn State University, Center for Academic Computing
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 92 19:30:06 GMT

In article <1992Aug18.163859.3213@csi.jpl.nasa.gov> eldred@rrunner.jpl.nasa.gov (Dan Eldred) writes:
>In article <1992Aug17.221951.11487@usho93.hou281.chevron.com> xepama@usmi02.midland.chevron.com (P.Mann) writes:
>>I have an '86 Westfalia Vanagon which is in need of new tires.  A
>>posting asking for information in 'rec.autos' brought a host of
>>suggestions, one of which was to ask the same question here.  So.. 
>>
>>The information in the vehicle states that the tires should run
>>39 psi in front and 48 in the rear.  Manufacturers sell tires 
>>supposedly for this model which have a max prssure of 40 psi.
>>Are these safe?  Any recommendations?  (I need these soon for a
>>1300 mile drive, so mail order is out.)

Pressure in the tire is not what you should really be concerned about, load 
rating and overall size is.  I belive Donald covered that...

>I highly recommend the light truck tires made by Michelin and also
>sold by Sears.  The size is something like 195/80 R14.  You can
>inflate these guys to something like 55 psi, and they are tough
>enough to take the side loads incurred by the VW vans.  I've had
>nothing but trouble with passenger tires on the VW vans, which
>I have owned since '76.  In fact, I've had a couple blow out, and
>almost all the passenger tires have been unraveling near the
>ends of their tread lives.  BTW cost is somewhat high, about $75 per
>tire.  Also, they're rated for mud and snow, but the snow traction
>doesn't seem to be all that hot.

Why go to such an extreme?  Michelin makes the XZX which is an excellent tire
on today's Vanagons and yesteryears Type IIs.   They do well in snow, wear well
and hold the load.  We get about 30-40K out of a set.  Plus they are way
cheaper than $75 a throw.  I think they are more like $50 or $40 a tire.

Ever notice how the Michelins Sears sells cost way more that what you can get
them else where?  Or maybe it's just in the greater Pgh area...?
-- 
Ack!                             esh101@psuvm.psu.edu             ESH101@PSUVM
hvozda@vivaldi.psu.edu           hvozda@wilbur.psu.edu            DoD #0217
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mdailey@bnr.ca (Matthew N. Dailey)
Subject: Re: How easy to replace push tubes on 78 bus with pancake engine?
Keywords: 78 bus pancake
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, BNR-RTP 
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 17:28:33 GMT

In article <1992Aug17.024425.19808@cs.umb.edu>, mike@ra.cs.umb.edu (Michael J. Thibodeau) writes:
|> I have a 78 bus with the last of the aircooled engines. My problem is that it
|> has a nasty habit of leaking oil at both ends of most of the push tubes. My
|> question is how easy is it to replace these, and can I use the 2-piece
|> expandable push tubes? 
|> 
|> -mike

I'm not sure how much clearance you'll have with the engine in
the car, but it is very simple to get the tubes out and replace
the O-rings on either end.  Just remove the valve covers, 
take off the rocker arms (2 bolts on each) and the spring clip
thingy, remembering how to put it all back.  Then the pushrods
come right out and just jerk on the tubes to pull them through
the head.  I would think that just replacing the o-ring seals
would fix the leaks.

-- 

Matt Dailey

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: eldred@rrunner.jpl.nasa.gov (Dan Eldred)
Subject: Re: '66 bug overhaul 
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 18:01:54 GMT

In article <1992Aug17.030045.1469@news.acns.nwu.edu> rroman@casbah.acns.nwu.edu (Randall Roman) writes:
>I have '66 bug that I plan on restoring to working condition.  
>It has a nasty oil leak which I have been unable to locate, and

They can leak in a number of places:

flywheel oil seal (remove engine, flywheel, replace seal);
pushrod tubes (replace culprit with telescoping tube)
engine seam (clean, try to seal with gasket goop; or disassemble engine);
oil strainer cover (replace gaskets, if necessary use gasket goop);
cylinder to case interface (disassemble engine; try gasket goop);
valve covers (replace gasket;  try not to use gasket goop);
oil cooler (engine has to come out but only minor disassembly required);

Good luck, Dan
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: alvear@panini.cs.jhu.edu (Domingo Bruno Alvear)
Subject: Moving to California.
Organization: Johns Hopkins Computer Science Department, Baltimore, MD
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 22:20:52 GMT

I am moving to California in a month and want to bring my 1987 16V VW Scirocco
with me, but I am worried about "California Emissions" standards.

Could some kind soul tell me what it will take to get my car under specs?

On another note, if anybody knows of a 16V Scirocco that has had it's day and
still has the driver's side rear tail-light panel, let me know.  My reverse
light lens was broken when I was in a parking lot and the dealer said it would
cost me $187 to fix since I have to replace the whole panel!!!

Thanks in advance,

Dom (alvear@cs.jhu.edu)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mlin@oracle.uucp (Michael Lin)
Subject: Questions:  '86 Golf Clutch Cable
Reply-To: mlin@oracle.uucp (Michael Lin)
Organization: Oracle Corporation, Belmont, CA
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 03:47:08 GMT
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by an unauthenticated user
              at Oracle Corporation.  The opinions expressed are those
              of the user and not necessarily those of Oracle.

The clutch on my '86 GOLF does not seem to depress very smoothly at all.
I think the problem may lie in the clutch cable, which does not seem to be
well lubricated.  The cable was replaced about 25K miles ago when I had a
rebuilt clutch/transmission put in by AAMCO, and I am wondering if they put
in a bad cable.  Could anyone tell me if there is an easy/proper way to  
grease a cable without going to a garage?  Could there be another explaination
for my clutch problem?

Thanks,

Mike.
From: bjgaed@bb1t.monsanto.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Brake Adjustments on Bug
Date: 19 Aug 92 06:34:24 CST
Organization: Monsanto Company, St. Louis, MO

In article <1992Aug17.204342.4106@news.columbia.edu>, baw2@cunixb.cc.columbia.edu (Bruce A Weisberg) writes:
> In article <1992Aug17.145626.4393@bb1t.monsanto.com> bjgaed@bb1t.monsanto.com writes:

>>You are backing off 'way too much.  Tighten the star adjusters until 
>>the wheel *doesn't turn* then back off *2 teeth*.  If the wheel still 
>>drags at some points as it turns around your drums are out of round so 
>>get them turned.
> 
> 	CAVEAT: NEVER turn a volksie brake drum!!!!!
> 	They are too thin, and cannot dissipate the
> 	heat created by lathe cutting.  If the 
> 	drums are out of round, REPLACVE them.
> 	Otherwise you will ditort them irreparably.
> 	:)
> 
> 	Bruce

I have had no problems having several different sets of VW brake drums 
turned *once*.  I have never tried to have them turned a second time.
After all, if the drum is so thin that it distorts from the heat of 
the cutting tool it obviously can't take the heat of braking a loaded 
car.  Also, if the machinist is in such a hurry that he/she advances 
the tool at a rate that generates that much heat you should find a new 
machinist.

I seem to have stirred up something here.  I assume that the drums are 
not too worn and the shop actually measures them to be sure they can 
take being turned.

On my old-style narrow drums the specs are:

Wall thickness >/= 4.0 mm; Inside diameter </= 231.5 mm.

If you have known your drums since birth and they have not been turned
before they will probably take one turning, but be sure the shop
actually measures them.  Maybe choose a shop that also sells parts, so
they have some interest in selling you new ones if yours are too thin. 

Probably these days, if you don't know if your shop is experienced 
with VW drums, you should take the specs in with you and specifically 
tell the machinist what the wear limits are.  Can anyone post the 
limits on the new-style wide drums?   

BTW, if you don't have experience with both kinds of drum, the narrow 
ones have the adjusting hole in the drum and you adjust the brakes 
from the outside.  The wide ones have the adjusting hole in the 
backing plate and you adjust the brakes from under the car.


--Electric Monk            (Bruce Gaede); 
                            e-mail: bjgaed@ccmail.monsanto.com

"...and then time started seriously to pass."
--Douglas Adams, _Dirk Gently's Holistic Detective Agency_
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: ptrei@bistromath.mitre.org (Peter Trei)
Subject: Re: Incredible Gas Mileage..
Organization: The MITRE Corporation
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 14:36:36 GMT

In article <92227.123202RXM108@psuvm.psu.edu> RXM108@psuvm.psu.edu writes:
>I have an '86 Jetta GL...
> my gas mileage has been steadily INCREASING... Yes, you heard
>right.  Now I am getting right about 40 MPG with just your standard
>regular unleaded gas.  What is going on?? 

     I had this happen once in my 86 GTI. Turned out to be a nearly
blocked fuel injector. I was effectively driving a 3 cylinder car. A trip
to the shop "fixed" this problem, and now I'm back to 27-30 mpg.

    +--------------------------------------------------------------------+
    | Peter Trei, a travelling man.  PTrei@mitre.org !linus!mbunix!ptrei |
    | Disclaimer: My employer pays me for my skills, not my opinions.    |
    | Remember now thy Creator in the days of thy youth...     N1MNV     |
    +--------------------------------------------------------------------+
From: lmm@cci632.cci.com (Lance Michel)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Brake Adjustments on Bug
Date: 17 Aug 92 13:54:08 GMT
Organization: Computer Consoles Incorporated


I'm having trouble finding the right adjustment on my 73 Beetle drum brakes.
The shoes have about 5mm of lining left, and the Drums look plenty thick 
enough.  I'm tightening the star adjusters as far as they will go, and then
backing them off about a half turn.  Is that too much?
After backed off, the wheels rotate with enough resistance to stop them after
about two revolutions. 

After adjusting, the pedal travels much too far before the brakes kick in.
I have to really crush the pedal before any decent braking occures.

Hows the fluid level?  'I dunno'  It looks fine when I look under the cover?
Did you bleed 'em?  No not yet.  The wheel cylinders look okay (no leaks).
How old is the fluid?  'Old'  Maybe four or five years.
Do the wheels lock up? 'Yes, if I'm going less than 20mph and I lay on the
pedal.'
Can they be pumped up?  'No - not a bit!'
Does the pedal pulse or the car pull? 'Not at all'.
Do they squeel? 'Nope, not since I adjusted them'

Thats all I can think of that I checked.  Any other ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks.

 ___________________________________________________________________________
|   "Storms have come, rains wash the Earth away.        |  Lance Michel    |
|    Dark skys fall now, into another day."              |  lmm@cci632.UUCP |
|________________________________________________enya____|__________________|
          (Song stuck in my head at the moment)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: michael9@cs.mun.ca (Michael Sullivan)
Subject: Tire sizes
Organization: CS Dept., Memorial University of Newfoundland
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 01:08:26 GMT

  I have an '85 Jetta that currently has 175/70R13 tires on it.  I also have
four new winter tires from another car sitting around in the garage, but
they are 185/80R13.  The local garage says as long as tires are the same
radius (13") everything is fine.  But a semi-mechanic that I know tells me
that the Jetta needs "low-profile" tires, and that the 185/80's are 
"high-profile" so I can't use them, even though they are both 13".

  Who's wrong?  Can I use my 185/80's or not?  Does the semi-mechanic have
any idea what he's talking about?  Help!


-- 
|uunet!garfield!michael9|'"Proof denies faith and without faith I am nothing,"|
|michael9@odie.cs.mun.ca| says God.  "But you have given us proof," says      |
|POB 756,St.John's,Nfld.| man, "Therefore you do not exist. QED." "Oh, my,"   |
|A1S 1G8                | says God, and disappears in a puff of logic.'       |
From: thartman@aludra.usc.edu (Tyson Hartman)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: VW for Sale
Date: 20 Aug 92 23:59:34 GMT
Distribution: ca
Organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA
NNTP-Posting-Host: aludra.usc.edu

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: VW for Sale
Summary: 
Expires: 
Followup-To: 
Distribution: ca
Organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA
Keywords: 

Sorry, my .signiture ate itself....

Tyson Hartman
thartman@aludra.usc.edu
213-740-6586
213-748-1096
1132 30th St.
Los Angeles, CA 90007
From: bdboyle@erenj.com (Bryan D. Boyle)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Questions:  '86 Golf Clutch Cable
Summary: Clutch Cable Woes
Date: 20 Aug 92 17:45:18 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Exxon Research and Engineering, NJ
              The opinions expressed do not represent the 
              views of Exxon, its affiliates, or component
              companies.

In article <1992Aug17.034708.22766@oracle.us.oracle.com> mlin@oracle.uucp (Michael Lin) writes:
>The clutch on my '86 GOLF does not seem to depress very smoothly at all.
>I think the problem may lie in the clutch cable, which does not seem to be
>well lubricated.  The cable was replaced about 25K miles ago when I had a
>rebuilt clutch/transmission put in by AAMCO, and I am wondering if they put
>in a bad cable.  Could anyone tell me if there is an easy/proper way to  
>grease a cable without going to a garage?  Could there be another explaination
>for my clutch problem?
>

What seems to happen in my '88 golf is that, after a period of time, the
lubrication either migrates out of the cable, or evaporates...the
easiest way to fix it (which is what I did...) is to loosen up the 
adjustment jam nut on the cable sheath, loosen up the large disk to free
up the cable, and then remove it (unhook) from the clutch pedal inside
the car and pull the cable thru the firewall.

Now, take a clean container (like a soup can...) and fill it with an
equal helping of STP and 20/50 motor oil.  (you can add a little moly 
grease for body, but you want a pourable mixture...).  Mix thoroughly,
and proceed to CAREFULLY pour this mixture into the cable.  You should
continue pouring until it comes out the other end.  Slide the cover back
and forth as you do this to completely coat the cable and cover...then
reattach...it should be a lot smoother (whatever is left over can be
used to lube the springs on the clutch lever on the xmission and the 
FI throttle body...-whatever is left over should be disposed of in
an environmentally correct manner...

I did this about 10K miles ago after my former mechanic told me I needed
a new clutch (it just didn't feel like a bad clutch, more like
binding in the system...he is now my former mechanic...)...need any 
more info, let me know...

Bryan D. Boyle     | Opinions are mine, not Exxon's...
Senior Engineer    | Twisted Pair: 908 730 3338
Exxon Research and | Through the Air: Cherokee N7068W
Engineering Co.    |
From: roy@alanine.phri.nyu.edu (Roy Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: reliable cars
Date: 19 Aug 92 14:46:04 GMT
Organization: Public Health Research Institute (New York)

lusky@hal.gnu.ai.mit.edu (Jonathan R. Lusky) writes:
> You left out one major part, which i suspect may have been what stranded
> the previous poster...  The injection pump!  Don't ever run a vw diesel
> out of fuel!

	You know, I've heard this for years, that if you ever run a diesel
out of fuel, you're in deep doo-doo.  I'm firmly convinced it's an old
wife's tale.

	I've run my 1980 Rabbit Diesel out of fuel twice.  The first time,
I coughed, sputtered, and repeatedly restarted it for about a mile until I
found a good place to pull off and make a phone call.  When help eventually
arrived, we just poured a couple of gallons of fuel into the tank, it
cranked right up, and away I went.  The second time, I ran out a couple of
blocks from a gas station (only a few months after the first time, it's not
clear which planet my brain was on that summer).  Again, I coughed and
sputtered to the station, filled the tank, and everthing was fine.

	Several years and several tens of thousands of miles later, my
injection pump seems to be running just fine, thank you.

	Like somebody said recently said, The Diesel Doesn't Die, The
Diesel Doesn't Break.  The rest of the car may fall apart around it, but
the motor keeps running.
-- 
roy@wombat.phri.nyu.edu (Roy Smith)
Public Health Research Institute
455 First Avenue, New York, NY 10016, USA
"This never happened to Bart Simpson."
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: kpjone01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu
Subject: 84 GTi transmission.
Organization: University of Louisville
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 23:18:59 GMT

Question,

Will a transmission from an 84 GTi fit in an 86 GTi?  If so, will there be any
differences that are noticable?

Thanks...

Kj
From: eldred@rrunner.jpl.nasa.gov (Dan Eldred)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Vanagon tire replacement
Date: 18 Aug 92 16:38:59 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory

In article <1992Aug17.221951.11487@usho93.hou281.chevron.com> xepama@usmi02.midland.chevron.com (P.Mann) writes:
>I have an '86 Westfalia Vanagon which is in need of new tires.  A
>posting asking for information in 'rec.autos' brought a host of
>suggestions, one of which was to ask the same question here.  So.. 
>
>The information in the vehicle states that the tires should run
>39 psi in front and 48 in the rear.  Manufacturers sell tires 
>supposedly for this model which have a max prssure of 40 psi.
>Are these safe?  Any recommendations?  (I need these soon for a
>1300 mile drive, so mail order is out.)
>
>Thanks in advance.
>-- 
>Parker Mann                    xepama@usmi02.midland.chevron.com
> 
>"Keep those cards and letters."

I highly recommend the light truck tires made by Michelin and also
sold by Sears.  The size is something like 195/80 R14.  You can
inflate these guys to something like 55 psi, and they are tough
enough to take the side loads incurred by the VW vans.  I've had
nothing but trouble with passenger tires on the VW vans, which
I have owned since '76.  In fact, I've had a couple blow out, and
almost all the passenger tires have been unraveling near the
ends of their tread lives.  BTW cost is somewhat high, about $75 per
tire.  Also, they're rated for mud and snow, but the snow traction
doesn't seem to be all that hot.

	- Dan
From: andrew@airs.com (Andrew Evans)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Autobahn 200 radio
Date: 12 Aug 92 21:20:17 GMT

orban@ciit85.ciit.nrc.ca writes:

>I have got the standard Aotobahn 200 radio in a '88 Jetta.
>It has an annoying feature, as one is driving around, the
>tone quality is continuously changing on FM, as if someone
>was playing with the tone control buttons. I understand,
>that the radio has a built in feature, that the audio
>quality is controlled to compensate for the changing FM
>reception.

Most modern auto FM tuners have a feature called "high blend".  Its
operation is similar to the automatic stereo/mono circuit that all FM
stereo receivers have.  When the FM signal gets weaker, the amount of
noise present in the signal increases.  Stereo decoding increases this
noise twofold, so switching to mono reduces the amount of noise you
hear.  High blend is a compromise; it leaves the high audio
frequencies (which is where you hear most of the noise) in mono mode
while decoding the lower end of the audio spectrum into stereo.  This
is less drastic than going completely mono in terms of the stereo
image, but still has a noticeable "on-off" effect.

Anyhow, what this means is that the signals you're tuning are of
marginal strength.  Probably the amount of gain in the stock VW tuner
isn't the best in the world.  Maybe a signal booster would help,
though those tend to amplify noise as well.  A quality tuner to
replace the stock one would probably be best, along with a good
antenna.  Only problem is, car stereos seem to have a
shorten-than-average lifespan in VW models due to stereo removal
specialists...

-- 
Andrew Evans (andrew@airs.com) - Infinity Development Systems - Waltham, MA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy)
Subject: Redline phone # please
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio, (USA)
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 92 13:09:54 GMT


Could someone post or e-mail me the 800 number for Redline?  I wrote
it down during the discussions a few weeks ago and promptly lost it.

Thanks!
Bill
-- 
William Claspy			Case Western Reserve University
Internet- wpc@po.cwru.edu
MaBellnet- (216) 368-3595
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mucit@cs.rochester.edu (Bulent Murtezaoglu)
Subject: engine ID
Organization: Computer Science Department University of Rochester
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 23:27:39 GMT


Could someone tell me how to identify an 80-84 VW engine (supposedly
came out of a Schirocco, and is now in an '81 Rabbit) ?  I couldn't find the
two letter code (e.g. JH etc.) where Bentley says it should be.  I did
find the numbers 049.103.373.B and 2BR under that on the top left
corner of the engine along with made in Brasil etc.  
I need to know the recommended timing, valve clearances etc. and I need the
code letters to look them up in Bentley.  

Thanks a lot.

-Mucit
From: silano@newton.cs.jhu.edu (Mike Silano)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Engine jerking problem
Date: 17 Aug 92 01:20:12 GMT
Organization: Johns Hopkins Computer Science Department, Baltimore, MD
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4

I have an 88 Jetta and had the same problems.  

Our local mechanic changed three engine mounts - all of them
were dead or dying (I got the car used, therefore, the damage was
already done...)

This did not solve the problem.  

I finally brought it to the local dealer.  It turned out to be an
ignition throttle sensor.  The little sensor mounted on the end of 
the throttle cable that is supposed to gradually increase/decrease
fuel flow to the engine.  (little != cheap.  $125 or so for the part).

That solved it.

Good luck

-Mike
From: fitch@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: VWs in Iowa?
Date: 13 Aug 92 12:27:23 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

Since an unfortunate accident took the life of my 1986 Jetta GL in June, I have
been looking for a suitable replacement.  Unfortunately, there aren't many
options for used (or new, for that matter) Jetta GLs or GLIs in Iowa that I
know of.  Perhaps my best option is to roadtrip to the Twin Cities.  Are there
any good sources (other than classifieds) in Iowa that any of you could
recommend for my search for VWs in Iowa?

Thanks in advance,

Ron Fitch
University of Northern Iowa