HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: seedman@IASTATE.EDU (Varanus e. exathematicus)
Subject: Re: UV light
Reply-To: seedman@IASTATE.EDU (Varanus e. exanthematicus)
Organization: Iowa State University
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 21:36:05 GMT

In article <1992Dec12.160237.4443@ultb.isc.rit.edu>, mds5597@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
writes:
> 
> 	Does this mean that regular light bulbs are in or out. I have it on for
> about 10 hours for Tabatha (Albino Corn).

	I've been talking with quite a few people lately about UV light.
From what I've seen and heard, UV A can have an affect on mood and attitude,
both in humans and in animals.  UV A is found in sunlight and in some full
spectrum flourescent lights.  This is why many large offices have started
using full spectrum lights rather than the cheap ones.
	Personal experience, my monitor became more active and seemed better
adjusted after I put him under a "Vita Light".  
	UV B, on the other hand, is what is necessary for the synthesis of 
vitamin D-3, that is necessary for the assimilation of calcium.  Though it 
doesn't happen often, it is possible to get too much D-3.  When an animal is
given too much calcium, but only sufficient D-3, excess calcium is passed 
out unused.  If an animal is given excess calcium and excess D-3, calcification
of soft tissue may begin.  This is similar to calcium deposits humans can 
get, only this calcification can occur internally as well.  The calcium can
choose good locations like arteries and the lungs.  
	So the question is "How Much is Too Much?".  I haven't found the
answer.  I think it may be "42".  Like most herp work, experience is your
guide, until there is a problem.  Home Herpetology is by no means an exact
science.  If you feel like doing some home experiments, do so.  But please
document them and make the results known.  Herpetology doesn't need to remain 
an in-exact science.  We just have to work at it.

					-=-  seedman@iastate.edu

=-= if you didn't "get" the reference to "42", I suggest you read
		"The Hitchhiker's Guide To The Galaxy" Trilogy
			Four books by Douglas Adams.   
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: instruct@tigger.jvnc.net (Instructional Systems)
Subject: notes from iguanaground
Originator: instruct@tigger.jvnc.net
Keywords: Ed the Happy Iguana
Organization: JvNCnet
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 21:36:49 GMT

	re UV lights, I think the key issue is not how long they should be
on each day, but that they need to be replaced MUCH sooner than most
vendors report.  The UV level drops appreciably in as little as 6 months,
although the light may function for up to two years.  Your little pikers
may not be getting the suntan they desperately need.  As for the guy
whose 'Gwana is wackin' him, I don't beleive, as the guides commonly
state, that if you don't give your lil' ig' enough playtime he'll grow
up to loathe human contact.  I've found there is no correlation between
liking to be played with as a young ig (or a new ig to your home) and liking
to be played with as a mature, adjusted ig.  I've had some young sociopaths
who grew up to be cuddly lizards, and some little shoulder perchers who
grew up to be recluses.

Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: mike@jammin.nosc.mil (mike pawka)
Subject: Re: Wood Shavings
Organization: NRaD
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 21:43:09 GMT

In article <1992Dec14.191313.4949@ncsa.uiuc.edu>, pingleto@ncsa.uiuc.edu (Mike Pingleton) writes:
|> Nathan Tenny writes:
|> 
|> <I'd suggest you avoid wood shavings completely; they can get caught in
|> <the throat and cause purely mechanical respiratory problems, independent of
|> <the type of wood.
|> <
|> <A lot of pet stores sell a substrate made of dried corncobs, which is pretty
|> <wonderful---it clusters around dampness and feces, which makes for nice, easy
|> <cleaning.
|> 

	We use orchid bark for our red-footed tortoise. It doesn't seem to bother
him. Has anyone heard of this type of bark presnting a problem?

							mike
From: willeyr@helium.gas.uug.arizona.edu (Rebecca E Willey )
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Corn Cob, Showers and Iggs, what's new with my Ig : )
Summary: basic rambling
Keywords: cedar bad, corn and walnut good, showers swimming iggys
Date: 16 Dec 92 05:53:40 GMT
Organization: University of Arizona, Tucson

I was forced to use Corn cob bedding in my iguana's tank because I could not
find walnut shell bedding anywhere, over the summer when I was out of town.
My lizard had absolutely no problem with it, and certainly liked it a lot
better than that crappy 'chlorophyll litter' sold for rodents.

I still have some of it mixed in with the walnut shell bedding, and it's
causing no problems with my new baby iguana, Iggy (yeah corny name so what :)

Iggy and I shower together every day now.  It's fun to watch him swim around,
when I'm almost ready to leave the shower I plug it up and let it fill up a
few inches and play with him in it for a couple minutes... my room-mate
is tickled pink about the way he folds his legs to the side and swims.

Usually he'll defecate in the shower if he hasn't yet that morning... he is
only a 13" baby but he's pretty well set in his eating and shitting patterns.

I let him roam around and he's crazy for my roomie's 6 foot ficus.  I only
wish I had a heat lamp set up there for him.  He gets plenty in his tank.

He is frightened by people trying to catch him, but it's gotten a lot easier
to.  He doesn't try and get away as much, and he's never gone into an
aggressive stance with me or any other human... even the with the cat he
gets along great, and the cat is amused, but non-threatening (he's a dweeb).

He still gets defensive about touching his neck, though... I get the feeling
he was noose-caught, but if you rub him slowly he won't get paranoid.

When I first brought him home, I had a chuckwalla in the ten gallon he now
occupies... Tiger started head bobbing and carrying on, and after a few
days of no improvment in their behaviors, I took Tiger out and put him
in another tank.  Now even when Iggy sees Tiger across the room his dewlap
spreads and he tenses his tail.

Well enough rambling, just felt like a proud oparent, just wish he'd grow
faster, is all ;)

Becca the proud herp owner.
From: voorhees@sdd.hp.com (Joe Voorhees)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: FREE Day Geckos
Date: 17 Dec 1992 17:10:02 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, San Diego Division
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: hpsdlm14.sdd.hp.com
Keywords: gecko, day gecko

If anyone out there in NetLand would like to have 2 or more captive-bred
specimens of Phelsuma quadriocellata, let me know. Here are a couple of 
things to keep in mind:

1. I won't give them to anybody unless you're interested in breeding them.
2. I won't give them to anybody unless you're experienced with day geckos.
3. They're still juveniles, so I can't tell what sex they are yet.
4. If you have bred geckos in the past but have not had day geckos, I 
   might consider giving some to you; let's talk.

You must realize that the reason I put forth these stipulations is due to
the rarity of these lizards; I'm sure a lot of novices would like to have
some, due to their beauty, but they have some very specific dietary and
environmental requirements (i.e., not for the beginner).
-- 


                 --------------------------------------
Joe Voorhees                    Of all the things I've lost in my life
voorhees@sdd.hp.com             the one I miss the most is my mind.
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: meyersj@engin.umich.edu (Stephen James Meyer)
Subject: Iguana info.....
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 92 15:13:20 EST
Organization: University of Michigan Engineering, Ann Arbor

I know this group seems to be rapidly becoming rec.pets.iguana.help, but I have
a couple of questions about my ig Ed (OK, OK, a boring name :) ) that I've
had for about 5 months now.....

1)  How long should a UV emitting light be on each day?

2)  Is there any detriment to hand feeding?

3)  Ed seems to be a pretty picky eater (of course, his favorite foods are the
    least healthy for him in terms of calcium content).  Does this get worse
    as iguanas get older?

Thanks.......

Steve Meyer

Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: sshostek@sshostek.mentorg.com (Steve Shostek)
Subject: Iguana needs new home
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 01:06:39 GMT
Distribution: or
Reply-To: steve_shostek@mentorg.com
Organization: mentor
Keywords: 
Followup-To: 

(Attempting to limit distribution to Oregon)


Our Iguana needs a new home. 

This is a green Iguana (Iguana Iguana), 3.5 - 4 years old, male, and in 
good health. He hasn't had any health problems in the 3 years that we 
have had him, and he eats well. He measures 7.5" nose to vent and 20"
overall. He has a pleasant (for an Iguana) disposition.

I would like to sell the Iguana's pen along with the Iguana. It is 
constructed of plywood, glass, and all-weather carpet. It measures 36" 
wide by 22" deep by 30" high. It is equipped with 3 sources of heat
which can be varied with the seasons, and 2 light sources - incandescent
and UV. It has a swimming area, which is essential for a rainforest
lizard, and climbing areas built around the sides. The exterior wood 
is stained red oak and the interior is unstained with a polyurethane
finish for easy cleanup.

Included are 2 books on caring for Iguanas and lizards, and other info
that I have collected.

I have some $$ in the lizard and his pen and would like to 
recoup some of it, so I am asking $90.

-Steve

PS: I don't usually read these newsgroups, so please reply by email 
or call (503)685-7000 x3625, daytime. I attempted to restrict this post to 
OREGON, hope that worked.


-- 
* steve_shostek@mentorg.com         | What avail are forty freedoms           *
* sshostek@mentorg.com              | without a blank spot on the map?        *
* {uunet, attunix}!mntgfx!sshostek  |                                         *
*                                   |          --Aldo Leopold                 *
From: berk@techsys.mcws.fidonet.org (Berk Walker)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Wood Shavings
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 92 20:03:35 PST
Organization: Private for Now

pingleto@ncsa.uiuc.edu (Mike Pingleton) writes:

> Nathan Tenny writes:
> 
> <I'd suggest you avoid wood shavings completely; they can get caught in
> <the throat and cause purely mechanical respiratory problems, independent of
> <the type of wood.
> <
> <A lot of pet stores sell a substrate made of dried corncobs, which is pretty
> <wonderful---it clusters around dampness and feces, which makes for nice, eas
> <cleaning.
> 
> I would consider corn cob an even worse risk of getting caught in a herp's
> throat.  The cob sticks to food items just as readily as shavings.  And after
> witnessing the agonized writhing of a boa with a piece of cob stuck in it's
> mouth, I believe the consequences are much worse.
> 
> I don't think corn cob has any use in herpetoculture that can't be served by
> something better.  Besides the danger of getting lodged somewhere, it also
> serves as a breeding ground for bacteria, and will suck all the moisture out
> of the air as well.
> 
> Mike (I'm sticking to the funny papers) Pingleton
> 

do y'all think this should apply to a small Ig?

Berk Walker                           berk@techsys.mcws.fidonet.org
From: bw116@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffery Blaine Byers)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Wood shavings
Date: 12 Dec 1992 20:56:49 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


OK, cedar chips are out.  Today I picked up the only other thing I could
find, which is called "small animal chlorophyll litter," produced by
Geisler.  Will this be acceptable?  It smells like pine, but it looks... 
Well, I'm not sure exactly WHAT it looks like...  a bunch of small pine
shavings mixed with a lot of green stuff.
   Is this safe for snakes?  I have two black rat snakes in one tank,
but in the other tank I have a baby garter and two baby water snakes (which,
so far, aren't exhibiting the temper they're famous for having, but they're
just babies), so they enter their large water dish a lot.  That means a lot
of this stuff is going to end up stuck to their bodies (it's pretty fine
material, not large shavings) and then end up in the water.  I'm worried that
that will cause a slight problem when they go to drink.  I'll probably
hold off on using ANY kind of loose bedding with the water snakes, for just
that reason, but that problem doesn't exist with the black rat snakes since
they have a bowl for water, which they never enter. 
   I'd just like to know if this particular brand would cause any respritory
problems, what with the pieces being so fine.
From: nathan@charles.ucdavis.edu (Nathan Rollins)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Force-feeding info wanted
Date: 6 Dec 92 07:06:42 GMT
Organization: Department of Music, UCDavis
Originator: nathan@charles.ucdavis.edu


 Hi there, here's me back with more questions; this time, on
force-feeding. The animal in question is a baby corn snake of about
pencil-thickness at the widest point, who has been eating well until
recently, then she shed, ate once, and has not eaten since (about a week now).
 I've tried all the usual tricks to get her to eat (she used to eat every day
or every other day at least). I've tried dead, live, washed, stunned,
bagging, poking the pinky's head open, pretty much every tactic I've ever
seen on this net or heard of. I don't want to have to force-feed, but if I do,
I'd like to know a few things;

 How long should I let her go without eating before being desperate enough 
to force-feed her? She's healthy looking enough now, but baby corns always
look so thin...

 Should I in no way attempt this and instead pay $40.00 a shot to have our 
herp vet force-feed her? 

 How do you force-feed something that tiny?? She's just a hatchling.. I've
got the McEachern (sp?) corn snake book, but if anyone has any info on how
to hold them, get their mouths open, lube pinkies, anything... mail or posting
would be greatly appreciated.

 Many thanks in advance.. 

 Otter not Nathan
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: lxfogel@srv.PacBell.COM (Lee Fogel)
Subject: Re: My iguana hates me already :(
Organization: Pacific * Bell
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 00:49:16 GMT

In article <Bz7wIH.9yI@optimla.aimla.com> walter@optimla.aimla.com (Walter Hunt) writes:
>
>[...] should I attempt to continue picking him up every so often
>under the assumption that he will get used to it eventually? At this point, I'm
>about ready to take him back to the store.

Continue picking him up.  You might want to try lowering his temperature a bit
first though, like to 70 degrees.  He'll most likely be a little less aggressive.
Also try late evenings after his usual bedtime.  Good luck.

-- 
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Lee Fogel/\/\/\/\/\eVerything/\Is/\possiBlE/\/\/\/\/\lxfogel@srv.pacbell.com
____________________________________________________________________________
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: ss@panix.com (Steve Steinberg)
Subject: HELP: Iguana problem!
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1992 00:54:24 GMT
Organization: PANIX Public Access Unix, NYC

Tonight I purchased a 3" SVL Iguana to keep my 5" SVL Iguana (Ignatz)
company.  Everything I've read has suggested that there was no problem 
and that they would basically ignore each other.  Well that's not what 
happened.  Within 10 minutes the larger started to sniff (tongue?) around
after the smaller and then tried to take a bite out of him!  

Has anyone else noticed this type of behavior?  For now I've seperated
them, but I'm considering taking the smaller one back to the store.

I never feed Ignatz any crickets, maybe he want to chase some live prey?
Maybe the second Iguana should be closer to the olders' size?  PLEASE
HELP!



-- 
=====================================================================
=== Steve Steinberg   ==  ss@panix.com  == {cmcl2,apple}!panix!ss ===

              (The space below intentionally left blank)           
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: bjz@sei.cmu.edu (Barbara Zayas)
Subject: Re: Corn Cob, Showers and Iggs, what's new with my Ig : )
Keywords: cedar bad, corn and walnut good, showers swimming iggys
Organization: Software Eng. Inst.;Carnegie-Mellon U.; Pittsburgh, PA 15213   _USA_
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 08:34:37 EST


In article <111562@siemens.siemens.com>, aad@siemens.com. (Anthony Datri) writes:
|> >I was forced to use Corn cob bedding in my iguana's tank because I could not
|> >find walnut shell bedding anywhere, over the summer when I was out of town.
|> 
|> You were in a town that didn't have newspapers?

It could be Pittsburgh.  We've been living amidst a newspaper
strike since last spring.



--------------------------____________------------------------------
Barbara Zayas		              Software Engineering Institute
bjz@sei.cmu.edu			      Carnegie Mellon University
__________________________------------______________________________
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: jgraham@bronze.ucs.indiana.edu (the End)
Subject: Re: HELP: Iguana problem!
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1992 18:15:58 GMT

Well what is an "SVL" iguana and why is it only 3" long ?

Jim

Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: meyersj@engin.umich.edu (Stephen James Meyer)
Subject: "Big-headed" anoles
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 92 23:36:32 EST
Organization: University of Michigan Engineering, Ann Arbor

About seven years ago, I had a pair of "big-headed" anoles (that's what they
were called in the pet store I bought them from).  They were slightly larger
than the Carolina anoles (with the male being significantly larger than the
female) and had heads shaped more like those of iguanas.  They were uniformly
tan in color, and I never saw them change color.  The male's dewlap was all
white.  The only species I've heard of (other than A. carolinensis) are
A. equestris and A. sagrei (sp?), and I'm sure its not either of those....

Any ideas on what species they were?  And do any breeders have them??

Thanks..........

Steve
From: bw116@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffery Blaine Byers)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Black ratsnakes
Date: 18 Dec 1992 05:43:43 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


Anyone know what black ratsnakes generally eat in the wild?  I have
one that was store-bought.  She eats mice with no problem.  But I have
another that was caught just before it got cold, and so far I haven't
been able to get him to eat.  He's perfectly healthy, very strong, and 
exhibits a lot of energy, exploring his surroundings constantly.  It may
well be that he knows he should be hibernating, and so is refusing to eat,
but I'd like to know what else I might try besides rats and mice.
   I know they're tree climbers, and I assume they'll eat birds, but it's
a bit hard to get ahold of live birds.  Anyone know if baby chicks (they're
fairly inexpensive and easy to come by) will be "bird enough," or will it
not smell right?  How about eggs - I know some snakes eat eggs, so I
was wondering if it might possibly eat fresh chicken eggs.
   If I haven't gotten him to take food by spring, he'll be set free, of
course.  But if I do, I'm wondering how old black ratsnakes need to be in
order to breed...  The one that as storebought will, I believe, be about
2 years old this spring (she's about 3.2 feet long).  The other will be
maybe 3 or 4 years old (he's a bit over 4 feet, and about 1.5 inches thick
at his thickest point).  If he keeps well in captivity, I'd like to try
my hand at breeding them as soon as she's old enough.

   BTW, yes, I've checked herp books for these answers.  Unfortunately,
the ratsnake doesn't have a whole lot of specific info in written form
in any of the books I've found.  There's a TON of info, literally, about
boas, and about 1/2 that amount of info on pythons in all the books I've
found.  Most ophidian concentration is on those brightly colored types,
which is fine, but I can't find info specific to what I need.
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: pholland@iastate.edu (Paul J Hollander)
Subject: Re: Force-feeding info wanted
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames, IA
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1992 00:21:35 GMT

In article <1gd3p5INNeuf@MINERVA.CIS.YALE.EDU> bell-peter@yale.edu (Peter 
Bell) writes:
>In article <19878@ucdavis.ucdavis.edu> nathan@charles.ucdavis.edu (Nathan 
>Rollins) writes:
>>
>> Hi there, here's me back with more questions; this time, on
>>force-feeding. The animal in question is a baby corn snake of about
>>pencil-thickness at the widest point, who has been eating well until
>>recently, then she shed, ate once, and has not eaten since (about a week now).
>
>Force feeding is a *last ditch* move.  (Much excellent information deleted.)

A possible reason it isn't feeding is it might be in a shedding cycle.

If it doesn't eat in another week or so, you might let it chill down for 2-3
months.  In a week, the snake's stomach should be adequately empty.  Turn
off the cage heat for a few days and then move the cage to a spot that holds at
around 60-65 F.  I like to put a cardboard box over the aquarium to reduce the
light.  Give fresh water every week or two.  Do not handle it unless 
absolutely necessary during this time.  When the snake comes out of this 
simulated hibernation, it will probably start feeding within a week.  IMHO, 
this would be preferable to force feeding.

I've hibernated several dozen corns and California kings like this and 
never lost one, not even babies.  However, I am assuming that your snake is
healthy.

Paul Hollander    pholland@iastate.edu
Behold the tortoise: he makes no progress unless he sticks his neck out.
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: pingleto@ncsa.uiuc.edu (Mike Pingleton)
Subject: Re: Wood Shavings
Originator: pingleto@troon.ncsa.uiuc.edu
Organization: Nat'l Ctr for Supercomp App (NCSA) @ University of Illinois
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 19:13:13 GMT

Nathan Tenny writes:

<I'd suggest you avoid wood shavings completely; they can get caught in
<the throat and cause purely mechanical respiratory problems, independent of
<the type of wood.
<
<A lot of pet stores sell a substrate made of dried corncobs, which is pretty
<wonderful---it clusters around dampness and feces, which makes for nice, easy
<cleaning.

I would consider corn cob an even worse risk of getting caught in a herp's
throat.  The cob sticks to food items just as readily as shavings.  And after
witnessing the agonized writhing of a boa with a piece of cob stuck in it's
mouth, I believe the consequences are much worse.

I don't think corn cob has any use in herpetoculture that can't be served by
something better.  Besides the danger of getting lodged somewhere, it also
serves as a breeding ground for bacteria, and will suck all the moisture out
of the air as well.

Mike (I'm sticking to the funny papers) Pingleton

Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: "allen murray" <allen.murray@canrem.com>
Subject: feeding young cordylus
Reply-To: "allen murray" <allen.murray@canrem.com>
Organization: Canada Remote Systems
Distribution: rec
Date: 15 Dec 92 20:09:12 EST

        A friend of mine has a Common cordylus (Cordylus cordylus(sp))
which has just given birth to 3 young. The first 2 young were born close
together 2 days ago and the third, smaller young was born today. So far
none have eaten the small crickets which he has been giving them.
        Has anyone successfully raised this or a related species? What
kind of food were they initially given. Under what conditions did they
grow and thrive? Any related information would be greatly appreciated.

                                Allen Murray
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044