HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: larry@cs.umd.edu (Larry Herman)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: Re: mopars
Date: 15 Dec 92 21:59:31 GMT
Organization: U of Maryland, Dept. of Computer Science, Coll. Pk., MD 20742

In article <djanzen.724394132@sfu.ca> djanzen@fraser.sfu.ca (Derek Montgomery Janzen) writes:
>
>
>
>Does anyone have the address of a Mopar discussion group.  I recall
>hearing about on about 5-6 months ago.  
>

Hi Derek,

  The Mopar mailing list is at mopar@casbah.acns.nwu.edu.  Request to
be added by mailing Jarvis, the list maintainer, at
jarvis@casbah.acns.nwu.edu.  I think he is away for a couple of weeks,
so if you don't hear back right away just hang on!

  A happy list member,

  Larry

P.S.  I posted in addition to email in case anyone else is interested
also.
-- 
    /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\
    |  Larry Herman      University of Maryland Computer Science Dept. | 
    |    (lack of witty phrase here is sorely felt) larry@cs.umd.edu   |
    \/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/
From: mn29+@andrew.cmu.edu (Mark Anthony Nicholson)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: Mustangs for sale?
Date: 12 Dec 92 00:54:54 GMT
Organization: Freshman, Architecture, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA

If there is anyone out there who knows where I can get a 69' Mach 1,
doesn't have to be resored, for under 5 grand, please let me know.  Not
really any preference on the cid.  If not a Mach 1, just any late 60's
pony's.

								Thanks.
								Mark
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: milliganc@woods.ulowell.edu
Subject: RE: Pink Cadillac(was: Re:Thelma & Louise
Organization: University of Lowell
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 16:13:55 GMT

   I'll say the body panels fell off easily!!!!!!!!  I wouldn't call it 
very realistic though.  I've never seen such a clean and compleat fender
revoval as Clint did with out UNBOLTING it first!  Except the guy I knew with
the '37 or so Ford.  It seems that the bolts which hold it to the body were
rusty to begin with.... some guy made a turn into him and hooked the wheelwell.
the fender came right off, just like it had been unbolted.  Good old Henry,
couldn't do that to a Buick!
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: dean@MorningStar.Com (Dean Schell)
Subject: Re: 1967 Chevelle Convertible - prrice question, etc.
Organization: Morning Star Technologies
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 16:14:17 GMT

In article <XHwsVB1w165w@bluemoon.use.com> moonhawk@bluemoon.use.com (David Culberson) writes:
>jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger) writes:
>
>>  1967 is the year before the body style change. The body is more rectangular.
>> The engine is your basic Chevy L-6 or small block V-8 most likely, with the
>> parts interchangeability that implies. The top will have a plastic rear windo
>> The structure is body-on-frame. 
>
>  Is it very quick?  How reliable are these engines?

As quick as you want to make it :-).  There are all kinds of parts
available for small block Chevy V-8s, and it could have a 283, or maybe
a 327.  I'd say the engines are very reliable and easy to work on too -
no complicated pollution controls or computers to deal with.  If the
engine runs fairly smooth but sort of chugs at idle it may have a stuck
valve or carbon deposits and may need a valve job.  I'd check the
compression and if it's low, determine if it's because of rings or
valves.  If it needs a valve job, remember to install hardened valve
seats to make it easier to use unleaded gasoline.

>>  $5000 is about the going rate for an all-original, unrusted or well-restored
>> version with decent interior and no mechanical problems. Prices (asking) can
>> go up past $10K for -perfect- ones, but very few daily drivers can reach 
>> (or stay at) that plateau. Esthetics and collectability aside, your criteria
>> should be the same as looking at any other $5000 car.
>
>  What are some problem spots I should check when looking at this car?  
>Any particular areas that rust?  Thanks!!

You bet!  GM had a problem right behind the front wheelwells and in
front of the door.  Also check the rocker panels and around the rear
wheelwells.  I would go over the whole car with a magnet wrapped in a
handkerchief to check for bondo as well.

-dean
From: soderburg@ccsua.ctstateu.edu
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: 1952 Ford parts needed
Date: 17 Dec 92 16:22:39 GMT
Organization: Yale University, Department of Computer Science, New Haven, CT

I am restoring a 1952 Ford Sunliner convertible and I need some guidence to
locate some difficult to come by parts.
I need: left and right parking light housings
        left and right stainless door trim molding 39-3/8" long
        trunk liner or a pattern to copy from

If you can direct me to a source or can give me phone numbers or addresses
of junk yards I will be forever in your debt.  I subscribe to Hemmings and
have sent numerous letters and received catalogs but no one supplys the
above.  I would also like to find a Ford club to join to share my hobby with.

               thanks           Ron Soderburg
                                Central Ct. State University
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: nilsrl@Siri.Unit.NO (Nils Ragnar Liholt)
Subject: Minerva
Organization: Norwegian Institute of Technology
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 92 12:25:52 GMT

I have recently bought a Minerva ZZ 20 HP from 1924. No mutch is in generally
known about these fine autos, so I seek information. My car was modified 40 years
ago the. To restore it to original condition as a convertible I am looking for
new doors (4), a windshield and the convertible top.

thanks!
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: moonhawk@bluemoon.use.com (David Culberson)
Subject: Re: 1967 Chevelle Convertible - prrice question, etc.
Organization: Blue Moon BBS ((614) 868-998[024])
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 92 20:27:09 EST

dean@MorningStar.Com (Dean Schell) writes:

> As quick as you want to make it :-).  There are all kinds of parts
> available for small block Chevy V-8s, and it could have a 283, or maybe
> a 327.  I'd say the engines are very reliable and easy to work on too -
> no complicated pollution controls or computers to deal with.  If the
> engine runs fairly smooth but sort of chugs at idle it may have a stuck
> valve or carbon deposits and may need a valve job.  I'd check the
> compression and if it's low, determine if it's because of rings or
> valves.  If it needs a valve job, remember to install hardened valve
> seats to make it easier to use unleaded gasoline.

  Sounds great!  But, I don't know how to check a car's compression.  I 
have not worked on cars much, the only car I have that ever needs 
servicing is a '69 Dodge A100, and that's the hardest thing to work on in 
the world!  (Lack of space - engine is between the seats!)

  How difficult is a valve job?  I am not adverse to doing it myself, I 
just would not like to ruin the car in the process.  ;)

> You bet!  GM had a problem right behind the front wheelwells and in
> front of the door.  Also check the rocker panels and around the rear
> wheelwells.  I would go over the whole car with a magnet wrapped in a
> handkerchief to check for bondo as well.

  Thanks!!  I'll be sure to check those spots very carefully.  Are there 
any funny noises I should listen for, or behavioral problems when running, 
etc?  Other than the chugging.  Thanks again!  I'm going to try to set up 
an appointment this weekend to look at the car.  :)

                David

---
( - moonhawk@bluemoon.cmhnet.org - dac@dacami.cmhnet.org - )
( - David Culberson - Check out the BMS site at dacami!  - )
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: mdl@oscar.bellcore.com (Michael Lynch)
Subject: Re: One more faked car wreck in movies
Reply-To: mdl@oscar.bellcore.com (Michael Lynch)
Organization: Bellcore
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 92 17:42:31 GMT

A couple of years ago at Spring Carlisle I saw what I
thought was a wrecked Tucker, but knowing that couldn't
be the case, I had to take a closer look.  Turns out it
was a Studebaker (don't remember the year) that had been
modified to look like a Tucker.  It was used in the movie
"Tucker" for the rollover scene on the test track.

More movie magic......



Mike Lynch
mdl@oscar.bellcore.com
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: tfpayn01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu
Subject: '73 Mach 2
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 16:01:38 GMT
Organization: University of Louisville

	Since I was a kid (and that's MANY moons ago) I've been in love with
the '73 Mustang Mach 1, probably just like everyone else.  Being the way most
cars of this age are, I'm shy of buying a used monster and finding death and
destruction (i.e, rust) afterwards.  Don't get me wrong, I'm not shy or afraid
to restore something, but I'm a college student, and I have 100's not 1000's to
melt into something.

	An idea that crossed my mind (hold back the flamethrowers, folks) was
to go this route:

	As fiberglass replacement parts are many and fairly inexpensive, I was
considering getting an original frame (which can be purchased new for about
200), gradually purchasing the body parts, and pursuing a particular hybrid
engine shown in an older issue of Hot Rod- the Clevor.  It's a Windsor block
with Cleveland/Windsor parts bored out to, damn, can't remember the
measurement.  Anyway, they got 400 horsies outta this monster.

	The interior I was wanting to use modern Mustang/Corvette tech to turn
the Cobra into a REAL monster.  Possibly with Captain's chairs (can get 'm for
nothing locally.)

	Most of the aforementioned parts can be had for next to nothing (gotta
know the right folks, as I'm finding out!).

	I'm not trying to build a monster street machine, but a more
contemporary version of the Mach 1 that'll last 10-15 years, hand it off to a
son/grandson or put it in a show.

	Comments? 


/  / // / / /  / /  / / // / / // / //  / /   /  // /  / / / / // // / / / // /
// // /  / // /// // / / /// /// // /// /// // // /// / ///// // /   / // // /
/  /  ________|\_______________________________________________   /  /  // / /
/ // |\_\_\_\_| |_____________________________________________/   / / / / / / /
// / / /      |/  / / //  // /  / / / //  /  /  / /  /  /  / /  /  / / / /// /
/  / /  /  ///  / /  /  Tom Payne *** Louisville, KY	 / //  /  /  /  / / / /
 /  //TFPAYN01@ULKYVX.LOUISVILLE.EDU   /  / INFTECR1@ULKYVM.LOUISVILLE.EDU /// /
/ // / /  /   / / / /  ///  // (502) 635-2473 / / // // // / /////  / / // // / 
<><><><><> ARE <><><><> YOU <><><><> READY <><><><> TO <><><><> DIE? <><><><><>

Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: tzortn@bray1a.its.rpi.edu (Nicholas Lawrence Tzortzinis)
Subject: Re: Gears in a Mustang
Reply-To: tzortn@rpi.edu
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY.
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 22:44:21 GMT

There was an article about changing a rear in Popular Hot Rodding and another one in High Performance Mopar (I know its not Ford but it mau help).  Both were published in the last six months.  You may want to check tham out.  I know that the PHR article had references that you may want to check out. 
                                 Well good luck
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: bowmanj@csn.org (Jerry Bowman)
Subject: Re: Hydro sticks
Organization: University of Colorado Boulder, OCS
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 17:24:03 GMT

In article <HODGSON.92Dec16183347@watch.waterloo.edu> hodgson@watch.waterloo.edu (John A. B. Hodgson) writes:
>> Just installed a 700R4 in my 69 chevelle. Yes they can be beefed to live
>> behind a real healthy engine.  The local tranny shop owner has one in his
>...
>
>I'm thinking of doing this on my 1974 Camaro, currently with a 350 L48 and
>TH350.  Could you describe what mods need to be done, i.e., speedo drive,
>kickdown, shift linkage, filler pipe, drive shaft length, rear support,
>vacuum modulator, rear spline/yoke, bolt pattern to engine, converter drive
>plate, starter motor location, clearance to body/chassis, cooler lines, and
>anything else which could cause difficulties?  I'm interested to hear from
>someone with actual experience.
>--
>Yours very sincerely,	| Department of Systems Design Engineering
>			| University of Waterloo
>John Hodgson,		| Waterloo, Ontario
>Graduate Student.	| Canada  N2L 3G1

    I haven't dealt with the speedometer correction yet, it is 5 mph off. I replaced a powerglide. As for the linkage, I used a B & M  Mega shifter. I am told that you can use th350 or th400 shifters as long as it doesn't bother you that you could not put it in low gear. What was low gear on your th350 would be 2nd with the 700R4.  The  " kick down cable" I think it is ac tully more than that on the 700R4, hooks to your carb just like any other and is not a problem. The filler pipe, at least in my case did


n't need to be changed or moved. My trans came out of a 87 caprice.  The drive shaft had to be shotened, but very little. Less than 2 inches. I didn't even need to rebalance it. The cross member didn't need to be moved from its original location. The yolk is the same as a th350. I did have to change the starter as the flex plate was larger.I had no clearance problems at all. coolerlines were fine. I used the ones that came off the caprice.   Hope this helps you out.You will love it. 
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: bowmanj@csn.org (Jerry Bowman)
Subject: Re: Hydro sticks
Organization: University of Colorado Boulder, OCS
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 17:13:46 GMT

In article <1glbstINNbj2@gap.caltech.edu> looper@cco.caltech.edu (Mark D. Looper) writes:
>In reply to the question about swapping a Turbo HydraMatic in for a Powerglide:
>
>	It's my understanding that a TH350 is a bolt-in replacement for the
>Powerglide, at least as far as crossmembers, mounts, etc., and overall length
>are concerned; the TH400 is longer, but if your car is a 1967 it is possible
>that the TH400 was offered as an option, in which case you may be able to
>get any needed crossmember, driveshaft, etc. from a boneyard.  As for strength,
>early TH400's (I don't know the breakpoint year) had a sprag intermediate
>one-way clutch, whereas late TH400's and all TH350's have a weaker roller
>clutch.  Late TH400's can be upgraded to the sprag, and the early TH400's can
>have it replaced with a stronger (34-element instead of, what, 16-element 
>stock?) aftermarket one; I don't think this can be done with a TH350 to beef
>up this important (relatively) weak point, though other strengthening mods
>can be made.
>
>	What _I'd_ like some suggestions on is sticking a TH700-R4, which is
>even longer than a TH400, in place of the 'Glide in a 1964 Chevelle for
>better cruising range and a deeper first gear; I understand that street-strip
>prep can make the late (1986-up) TH700-R4 survive up to 450 ft-lb of torque.
>And how about this new 4L80E overdrive variant on the TH400 that they're
>putting into Suburbans these days?  Has anybody looked into beefing one of
>these?
>
>--Mark Looper
>(1970 Caprice trailering rig, but looking to slim down)

    Just installed a 700R4 in my 69 chevelle. Yes they can be beefed to live
  behind a real healthy engine.  The local tranny shop owner has one in his
  39 chevy coupe behind a built 454 (450 hp? )  and lets face it he could have
  anything in there that he wanted. It is really nice to be able to run a 4:33
  rearend and still cruise at 60 mph under 2000rpm with a 27" tire. Try it you'l  like it.
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: bowmanj@csn.org (Jerry Bowman)
Subject: Re: Hydro sticks
Organization: University of Colorado Boulder, OCS
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 16:04:30 GMT

In article <1992Dec17.182018.20082@mlb.semi.harris.com> jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger) writes:
> Just out of curiosity, are there TH700s with the old BOP pattern or are
>they all Chevy? I have a backup combo in my project car now, which is a
>'75 odd-fire Buick V-6 (BOP pattern naturally) in front of a Buick TH350
>that leaks like a sieve. Are there versions of the TH700 that'll fit up 
>or am I looking at an a-dapter kit? I don't expect that a 700 would survive
>long behind what I want to run, but for what I'm getting by with now it
>might make more sense to buy and rebuild a 700 than rebuilding the TH350
>(the torque converter is too tight anyway) or hooking up the ST400 
>(though the V-6 could use the two stall speeds).
>-- 
>##########################################################################
>#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
>#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
>#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#

     I have heard that a BOP version exists, but I haven't seen one.
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: Hydro sticks
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 18:20:18 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 Just out of curiosity, are there TH700s with the old BOP pattern or are
they all Chevy? I have a backup combo in my project car now, which is a
'75 odd-fire Buick V-6 (BOP pattern naturally) in front of a Buick TH350
that leaks like a sieve. Are there versions of the TH700 that'll fit up 
or am I looking at an a-dapter kit? I don't expect that a 700 would survive
long behind what I want to run, but for what I'm getting by with now it
might make more sense to buy and rebuild a 700 than rebuilding the TH350
(the torque converter is too tight anyway) or hooking up the ST400 
(though the V-6 could use the two stall speeds).
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: tzortn@bray1a.its.rpi.edu (Nicholas Lawrence Tzortzinis)
Subject: Re: Drags
Reply-To: tzortn@rpi.edu
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY.
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 21:59:04 GMT

The truck sounds like a great idea.  My question is why bother with a car body.  There are companies that produce fiberglass truck bodies.  That with some ballast in the bed of the truck you can have yourself a great ride.  Also if your interested there was an article in Ppular Hot Rodding were they put a Corvette four link independent rear suspension set up in the truck.  If I remember correctly they bought the rear set up from a junkyard for six hundred dollars.  It did not really need a lot of modificat

ion.  You should check it out.  The article was published in the last six months.
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: drew@ladymacb.cs.colorado.edu (Drew Eckhardt)
Subject: Re: Future of the Vette
Organization: University of Colorado at Boulder
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1992 11:52:32 GMT

In article <1992Dec17.194001.45730@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu> 2huxsilent@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu writes:
>My local newspaper (the Kansas City Star) had an interesting article about the
>future of the Corvette.  It seems that GM has appointed a new head to the
>Corvette department.  According to the article GM is considering closing the
>Corvette Bowling Green plant and producing the next generation Vette on the
>F-Body in Quebec.  As of now GM has not made a decision but it appears that
>this is what the new department head wants.  Not that I have any major
>arguements against GM doing this.  Let's be honest, the mid-80's Vette looked
>like a two seat Firebird with a more powerful engine.  

Disgusting, isn't it?  Even more so when you consider that the stock 'vette
is powered by a pushrod tractor motor, and not a very powerful one at 
that. 

>My question is this:  If GM does this will they ditch the 4-wheel independent
>suspension on the Vette or will this mean that all of the F-bodys will get
>4-wheel independent suspension (which they have needed for a while)?
>The article in the paper was not very informative, they were more caught up
>with the history of the new department head.
>

What goes around comes around - when Delorean was at Chevy, he wanted to 
build the Corvette on a shortened Camero chasis, complete with the solid 
rear axle...
-- 
Boycott AT&T for their absurd anti-BSDI lawsuit. | Drew Eckhardt
Condemn Colorado for Amendment Two.		 | drew@cs.colorado.edu
Use Linux, the fast, flexible, and free 386 unix |  
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: rap@zycor.lgc.com (Robert Poldervaart)
Subject: Re: Drags
Organization: Landmark/Zycor   Austin, Texas
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 20:21:06 GMT

In article <92346.102248VEILLEUX@MAINE.MAINE.EDU> Troy D. Veilleux <VEILLEUX@MAINE.MAINE.EDU> writes:
>best is an 8.8 in the quarter mile.  (Try to keep form laughing.)  This may
>not sound that great, but most of the other street cars that drag only
>get into the mid 9's.
>

Are you sure you don't mean 1/8th mile?  8.8 and 9.0 are haulin' A** for a street
car.


MY car:

1987 Buick Grand National
When it was stock it ran a high 13 or low 14.  Since then I've added things 
to both ends of the engine.  I added better air filter system (some sort of
ram air and K&N filter) and 3" exhaust with 3" two chamber flowmasters.  Other
than that, I concentrate on traction and maintanaince.  As for Traction, there's
the 90-10 shocks in front, southside traction bars, pinion snubber, air bag
in right rear coil spring, McReary DOT G-60's (I race mostly on street).  Other
things include underdrive-pulley, bigger fuel pump, and things to keep it cool.

My best time has been 12.67 @ 105 mph it Houston Raceway Park 70 degrees.  
That track is fantastic as far as traction.  I had 1.7 60' times whereas 
on other tracks I'm lucky to get 1.85.  Not too bad for never having the
valve covers off.

Robert...

=============================================================================
Robert A. Poldervaart                                  Landmark/Zycor
rpoldervaart@zycor.lgc.com                             220 Foremost Dr.
rap@zycor.lgc.com                                      Austin, Texas 78745
                                                       (512) 282-6699


Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: kmosher@IMD.Sterling.COM (Ken Mosher)
Subject: Re: 1994 pontiac gto
Organization: Sterling Software
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 15:33:11 GMT
X-Md4-Signature: ac76f6130a59b1dd7967ee280e77f77b

In article <1992Dec10.220535.21009@mlb.semi.harris.com> jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger) writes:
> I can't see how having a "GTO" FWD blob on the road is going to hurt 
>anything. Hell, did the Mustang II knock down the value of the '64.5 - '66
>Mustangs? I think not. If anything, it helped them by contrast. Save your
>anger for those who'd like to get rid of the old ones. The new ones don't
>mean anything. 
>-- 
>##########################################################################
>#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
>#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
>#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#

I have to agree ... I was kind of put out when Buick did the 1988- "Regal
Gran Sport" (on a FOUR door, no less), but then I realized that only the
"car as an appliance" crowd would even THINK that this was anything like the
GS muscle cars.  I say, let the marketdroids do the hype and car nuts (like
us) should keep the classics alive.  Just my $0.02.

-- 
Ken Mosher                   UUCP:     uunet!sparky!kmosher                  =
Sterling Software IMD        INTERNET: kmosher@sparky.IMD.Sterling.COM       = 
Buick Grand National: The Surgeon General never said anything about smoking  =
                      the competition!!                                      =