From: v105mahs@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (Peter P. Donohue)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: a few questions
Date: 6 Apr 92 19:06:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <1992Apr4.080648.10103@beach.csulb.edu>, rwong@beach.csulb.edu (Robie Wong) writes...
>This is my first post to this newsgroup, since I just found this catagory a few
>moments ago and completely by accident.  Anyways, I'm glad I found it because I
>have a few questions that I hope someone will answer.
   Welcome to the group.  Pass the word of it to others.

>I've got two reptiles, a ball python and a Southern alligator lizard.  My
>python absolutely refuses to eat.  He has just gotten over a battle with mites
>and tics, and is clean, but he still won't eat.  The vet I took him to suggests
>force feeding him, but I read that that should be a last resort.  Any
>suggestions?  He isn't bone thin, but he's not big either.
   Has the ball python ate while you've had him?  Many ball pythons that
are purchased at stores are wild caught and can be tough to get eating.
Basically, the snake can live for months without eating.  I wouldn't
consider force feeding till he's gone over half a year without eating.
   Some things you should try:
	1) try a variety of foods, especially gerbils.  Ball pythons eat
gerbillas (a close relative to gerbils) in the wild.  he may be more 
willing to go for a gerbil.  Also try baby rats - 
many balls seem to prefer them over mice.                enlarged hole
                                                               |
	2) provide the ball python with a hiding place.      _   _
One option is to take a ceramic flower pot, place it large  /     \
hole down and enlarge the small hole in the base (which    /       \
is now the top).  This provides both a decent hiding     ./         \.
place and an area where the food can't crawl in and    -------------------
make problems for the snake.
	3) Offer the food every week or so.  With the above setup (and
also some rodent food in the tank), it shouldn't be a problem to leave 
the food in with the snake overnight.  You should leave the snake alone 
with the food and allow the snake to feel safe from you.  You also need 
to make sure the snake is safe from its food.  A rat pink or fuzzy (before 
its eyes open) is safe to leave.  An adult mouse or gerbil may be a
problem.  You leave the rodent food (basically anything: bread, nuts,
dry cat or dog food, etc.) so that the rodent doesn't get hungry and
try eating the snake. 
	4) Make sure the snake is warm enough.  Most boids (boas and 
pythons) are best kept in the mid-80s (farenheit).
	5) try to pick up the book by deVosjoli on Ball Pythons.  It is
a small paperback that usually costs less than $10.  If you can't find
it locally, I know Glades herps has it (address and phone on the herp
breeder/wholesaler list) along with many other herp places.
	6) keep reading this group.  There are quite a few ball python
owners here.

					Pete

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Peter P. Donohue - University at Buffalo, Graduate School of Management
bitnet:   V105MAHS@UBVMS                  .  "Education is a journey
internet: V105MAHS@UBVMS.CC.BUFFALO.EDU   .    not a destination..."
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp