HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: djd@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (david.j.daulton)
Subject: Re: Plant recommendations
Keywords: Privacy
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 15:56:44 GMT

Regarding the request for privacy planting, how about a mixed border
of different shrubs and small trees?

One advantage to this is you can shop various nurseries in the fall
when prices are often cut by half, and pick up what's available,
including: witch hazel (for both sunny and shady areas), hollies,
oak leaf hydrangea (often nice fall color), hemlock (tree, but nice
screen), and almost any type viburnum.  And, instead of planting
everything single file, you can stagger plantings, in two or more
undisciplined rows, giving depth and more privacy.

If you did want to go with one species, you might try European
beech, which can be pruned into a hedge, and if pruned, does not
drop its leaves until spring.

European hornbean is also nice, but best of all is American 
hornbean (nice fall color), but it is very hard to find.

Dave Daulton, Columbus, Ohio
From: Bob.Batson@mtask.omahug.org (Bob Batson)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Clematis rehderiana
Date: 20 Jan 93 14:45:35 CST
Reply-To: bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org
Organization: Multitasking Systems, Kansas City
Followup-To: rec.gardens

lienhard@daydreamer.metaphor.com (Steve Lienhard) writes:

 > Does anyone know of a source (plants or seeds) for the species clematis,
 > Clematis rehderiana?  In Stephen Lacy's book 'Scent in your Garden' it
 > is described as the "most desirable of all clematis."

In the 1992-93 catalog from THE FRAGRANT PATH (P.O. Box 328, Fort Calhoun,
Nebraska 68023, USA), eight varieties of fragrant Clematis species are
listed. They are Clematis crispa, C. macropetala, C. orientalis, C.
paniculata, C. pitcheri, C. recta purpurea, C. tangutica. and C.
viticella. Listed under ALTERNATIVES is Clematis texensis.

You might contact the proprietor and inquire as to the availability of
Clematis rehderiana.

You also might have luck by contacting the following>

        ARTHUR H. STEFFEN, INC.                 [CAT - $2]
        P.O. Box 184                            [MIN. ORD. $30]
        1259 Fairport Road
        Fairport, NY 14450

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: kjp@well.sf.ca.us (Karen Paulsell)
Subject: Re: Calif. Noxious Weeds ?
Organization: Whole Earth 'Lectronic Link
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 18:23:00 GMT

In article <24786@hacgate.SCG.HAC.COM> deeds@solaria.hac.com writes:
>
>Thanks to the person(s) posting info on native plants!  
>
>Now could someone tell me where to get info on restricted plants, i.e.
>those considered pests (in California specifically).  Do I write to
>Calif. Dept. of Agriculture, or what govt. agency?
>--
>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
>Deanna J. Deeds                                        deeds@solaria.hac.com

You might try writing to:

California Native Plant Society
909 12th Street, Suite 116
Sacramento, CA 95814

They may not list things considered as agricultural weeds, but I think they
do maintain a list of plants which can 'escape' and compete with native
ecosystem plants. Broom, Pampas grass, and Eucalytus being notable examples!
From: msz@ESD.3Com.COM (Mark Zaller)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Potting plants in big pots
Summary: Why not re-plant into large pots rather than slightly larger pots
Keywords: repotting, house plants, drwarf
Date: 26 Jan 93 18:04:42 GMT
Distribution: rec

I am preparing to plant some drawrf Citrus and fruit trees into pots. 
I often hear that plants should be replanted into pots only several 
inches larger than the last pot. Is this manadatory?

I would rather plant these trees into their permanent container, and let
them grow into it. It seems planting into a larger container could not be
worse than planting into the ground where there is unlimited room for 
root growth.

Does anyone know if going straight to 25-27" pot for a freshly planted
bareroot drawrf will hurt the plant in a substantial way?

-Mark Zaller
 Mark_Zaller@3Mail.3Com.Com
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: AChamove@massey.ac.nz (A.S. Chamove)
Subject: Re: RE: Lilac pruning
Organization: Massey University, Palmerston North, New Zealand
X-Reader: NETNEWS/PC Version 2c
Date: Fri, 29 Jan 93 01:53:29 GMT

What I did with my old lilacs was a mix of the above.
First I cut out all but about 5 of the shoots and these flowered the
next year.
The next year I selected the new shoots that I wanted to
retain--again about 6, and cut out ALL the other new shoots and the 5
taht I had kept the first time around.  These 6 then were old enough
to flower the following year.


-- 
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Arnold Chamove
Massey University Psychology
Palmerston North, New Zealand

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: kjp@well.sf.ca.us (Karen Paulsell)
Subject: Re: houseplants for dark corners?
Organization: Whole Earth 'Lectronic Link
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 18:43:30 GMT

In article <1jmtkfINN834@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> ai888@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Thomas Flesher) writes:
>
>Are there any houseplants that will do well with little or no direct sunlight?
>

I've had a 'corn plant', Dracaena fragrans, near a north window for 4 years,
it's doing FINE, so fine that it's about to hit the ceiling. The Ficus lyrata
(fiddle-leaf fig) right next to it is also happy. My Diffenbachia is maybe
10' from a big, south facing window. So, it gets some bright light (white
living room walls probably help) but it never gets direct sun. Ferns,
philodendrons, Scindapsus (pothos), and Monstera are other possibilities.
Overwatering and over-fertilizing low-light plants will contribute to weak
growth, IMO, so I keep them a tad on the lean side.

Karen Paulsell
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: cl27111@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Christopher  Lindsey)
Subject: Re: lilac (Syringa) pruning
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 05:22:49 GMT
Keywords: lilac, pruning

	I would prune the oldest, thickest branches out (or if it's like the
one by our house, 20' high by 25' wide, SAW them out), allowing the younger
shoots to develop...  If you cut it down to the ground, you'll just kill the
poor thing...  Getting rid of older wood also prevents the likely hood of
borer infestation or disease...

Chris
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: kathleen@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Kathleen Much)
Subject: Re: Looking for a Rose
Organization: Center for Advanced Study in the Behavioral Sciences
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 21:02:33 GMT

In article <1jmpbuINN9s4@morrow.stanford.edu> HF.SXM@forsythe.stanford.edu (Sara MacGilvra) writes:
>
>Could anyone guide me as to where to find a hybrid (I think) rose
>named Whisky Mac.
>
>My local sources have failed me as well as Perkins. I saw it listed
>in a catalog I tossed, because I was certain I could get it locally
>again. (mutter, mutter)
>
>This rose is unbelievably fragant.  The one I had has given up the
>ghost and I can't bear the thought of not having one in the garden.

Wayside Gardens has the hybrid tea rose Whisky Mac in its 1993 rose
catalog (sorry I don't have the address handy) for $9.95.  If you like
it, you might also like Just Joey, which is similar but often a bit
pinker (depends on the weather).

You might phone Jackson & Perkins too, as they often have roses that
aren't in their current catalog.  I compared 1992 with 1993 and found
many varieties in one but not the other, although it is still possible
to order 1992 roses.  Maybe it's a way to test the market to see what
the demand is from year to year.  If they get a lot of orders, they
may put a rose back in the catalog the next year.

-- 
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Kathleen Much, Editor		|E-mail: kathleen@casbs.stanford.EDU
CASBS, 202 Junipero Serra Blvd.	|Phone: (415) 321-2052
Stanford, CA  94305		|Fax: (415) 321-1192
From: cusanell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Dominic Cusanelli)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Tomato varieties
Date: 21 Jan 93 19:30:44 GMT
Reply-To: cusanell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Dominic Cusanelli)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD


  I agree with the choices of Rutgers and San Marzano.  These two
are the mainstay of my tomatoe plants.  They make a great pair
for sauces - both with densly packed seed clusters which are
easily removed by hand.  I usually plant early girl along with
these for an eairlier harvest.
From: Bob.Batson@mtask.omahug.org (Bob Batson)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Koeleria cristata?
Date: 22 Jan 93 17:35:09 CST
Reply-To: bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org
Organization: Multitasking Systems, Kansas City
Followup-To: rec.gardens

Can anyone tell me of a mail-order source for a small amount (1 ounce or
less) of June grass (Koeleria cristata)?


Bob Batson                        |   "xbsjywhspo ocmpszrgpuklepffff!"
bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org       |                 -- Cousin Itt

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: kathleen@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Kathleen Much)
Subject: Re: Looking for a Rose
Organization: Center for Advanced Study in the Behavioral Sciences
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 23:41:01 GMT

In article <1993Jan23.032009.4969@cbfsb.cb.att.com> djd@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (david.j.daulton) writes:
>On the subject of Pickering nursery, I recall ordering their catalogue
>a few years ago, and finding that it was a better illustrated more complete
>listing of antique roses than I  could find in any book at my library.
>Unfortunately, I loaned the catalogue to a friend and it never returned.
>Thanks for reminding me about Pickering.  I will send off for another
>catalogue.

Pickering's is nice, but Heirloom's is prettier!

-- 
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Kathleen Much, Editor		|E-mail: kathleen@casbs.stanford.EDU
CASBS, 202 Junipero Serra Blvd.	|Phone: (415) 321-2052
Stanford, CA  94305		|Fax: (415) 321-1192
From: zbear@lindy.Stanford.EDU (Stewart Kramer)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Need Help on Peony Tree....
Date: 26 Jan 93 16:09:35 GMT
Organization: Stanford University
NNTP-Posting-Host: lindy.stanford.edu

In article <1993Jan26.035054.10904@nicmad.uucp> Bob Klebba
<nicmad!klebba%astroatc.uucp@spool.cs.wisc.edu> writes:
>In article <28135@sybase.sybase.com> Karen Paulsell, karenp@sybase.com
>writes:
>>A couple of branches of my plant have started to block the
>>sidewalk, so if anyone has hints on propagating from cuttings, I'd
>>love to know when and how.
>
>Tree peony scions are grafted onto herbaceous peony roots.  I don't think
>you can root the woody stems alone.

I'd suggest air layering (apply rooting hormone, wrap damp potting soil onto
a branch using a plastic bag or plastic wrap), since this gives more time for
the roots to form.  I believe tree peonies are supposed to be planted deeply
to encourage roots to form on the topstock as well as the rootstock, so they
must be able to root themselves somewhat.  It just may take a while.  (Karen
says they've STARTED to block the sidewalk -- How much of a start?)

Keep us posted!
---
Stewart Kramer
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: karpen@nrlfs1.nrl.navy.mil (Judy Karpen)
Subject: Re: Help!  They've got me by the roots!
Followup-To: rec.gardens
Organization: NRL
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 19:43:25 GMT

> -  How the HECK do I get those old herbs out?  They are REALLY dug in,
> not to mention
>       all inter-grown to each other.  
> -  What kind of dividers do you recommend?  Redwood?  Cedar?  How deep do
> they have
>      to go?
> -  Any no-no's as far as one herb living next door to another?
> -  Are herbs hard on the soil - do I need to do something once I start
> with a clean
>      slate again?
> -  Is there any way to "save" and transplant parts of the existing tangle?
>
Which herbs did you plant? Most can take some root damage without any
problem --- especially the ones that have been spreading so well. If you
want to dispose of certain herbs completely, it may be difficult to get all
of it out but digging is the only solution. I stupidly planted lemon balm
in a small herb border, between some thyme plants, & had to be really
merciless about digging it all out. I'm sure I'll see some sprouts in the
spring, but they'll be alot easier to dig out than the original
plant-from-hell. The neighboring thyme plants didnt seem hurt at all. So
just get in there and hack away! You're in a much different zone, so I
don't know when is the best time to prune or transplant --- check with the
local cooperative extension, or maybe another CA resident on rec.gardens. 

DON'T plant anything from the mint family (including lemon balm) in a bed
shared with other plants. In fact, put it somewhere in lousy soil, far from
your garden, & HOPE that keeps it in check. I tried the trick of planting
it in a 5-gal. plastic tub with the bottom cut out, buried up to the top
inch or so, and the darn stuff still got out & infected nearby beds. So I'm
not convinced that dividers work with that stuff. The only other pesky herb
I've planted was borage, which self seeds readily and keeps popping up in
the oddest places (nowhere near its original site). But it has pretty
flowers, & is a magnet for cabbage & tomato caterpillars (which can then be
destroyed), so it's not really a nuisance. Maybe you should consider pots?
especially if you're not going to be around to keep the vigorous growers
cut back & out of each other's space.

In general, herbs don't need special treatment, and you shouldn't need to
do anything special to your soil. Some (like tarragon & rosemary) prefer
good drainage, so if your soil is very heavy/clayey, mix in some sand &
organic material. Most books say NOT to fertilize, at least not before
you're going to pick the plants (otherwise your thyme might taste like fish
emulsion, yecch). 

Rodale Books put out a good reference book on herbs, but unfortunately i
don't have the name handy. It has extensive information on cultivation &
all sorts of uses, from medicinal to culinary to decorative. Good luck!

Judy Karpen                "pushing back the frontiers of science"
karpen@nrlfs1.nrl.navy.mil  Naval Research Lab, Washington, DC USA
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: del@hawk.adied.oz.au (D Elson)
Subject: Re: Edible Flowers
Organization: Australian Defence Industries
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 03:42:22 GMT

tomm@cup.hp.com (Tom McNeal) writes:

>Don't forget 'Johnny Jump-ups', a small wildflower with deep purple
>and white petals.  I didn't see it in that big list, but I'm not sure
>what its scientific name is.  I wonder how many wildflowers are edible?

More common name "Heartsease", botanical name "Viola Tricolore".

Try this recipe:  lightly whip egg whites, coat the heartsease flowers
lightly, then sprinkle with caster sugar.  Bake for a few minutes in a
hot oven, allow to cool, then munch.

Del
Newsgroups: rec.gardens,misc.consumers.house
From: clarke@acheron.UUCP (Ed Clarke/10240000)
Subject: Re: AutoDesk Landscaping Computer Program
Reply-To: clarke@acheron.UUCP
Organization: Ciliophora Associates
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 13:12:25 GMT

In article <1993Jan26.004002.1842@VFL.Paramax.COM>, garyp@rmtc.paramax.com (Gary Palangian [RMTC/ISP]) writes:
|> AutoDesk, the AutoCAD people, have a computer program out that 
|> assists you in doing home landscape design.  It is about $40 retail
|> and I saw it in a local hardware   Does anyone have any experience 
|> with this program?  Is it worth the money?

I bought it; it works although there may be some inconveniences with it.

The first thing that I did was to enter the site survey data from my home
title search into the program.  First glitch - it uses 0-360 degrees with
0 along the 'X' axis.  Surveyors use "North 5 degrees East" (== 85 degrees).
So I whomped up a small Basic program on an old IBM XT to do the conversion.
It'd be nice if this was a built-in function.  After entering all the data,
the end point was some minor fraction (< 0.25 inch) off from the beginning
point.  This could be survey error, round off error from almost anything.
Two of my property lines are quite wavey .. The back line runs along a 
stream and one side runs along a stone wall - each has a half a dozen or
so points along it.

My next step is going to be putting contour lines on the map.  My town has
just completed (or is completing) a survey with two foot contour lines.
My local surveyor told me he'd do this for me @$500 or I could just go
to the town engineer and get a copy of my lot for $20 ...  The program
does support contour lines.

I'm going to rent or buy one of those gigantic 250' tape measures to locate
the trees and outbuildings on the map.  In summary, I like the program so
far.  It's worth the $39.95 ...
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Books (Hortica), Book Clubs
Date: 25 Jan 93 20:06:29 -0600
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

In article <C1Ev0w.CKs@acheron.uucp>, clarke@acheron.UUCP (Ed Clarke/10240000) writes:
> There have been several mentions of the book "Hortica" in this group.  Last
> Saturday I found a copy in my local Barnes and Nobel ... it's a little more
> expensive than I was prepared for: $250 (US).   Has anyone seen this in a
> "Garden Book Club" type of offering?
> 
> Is it worth joining these clubs?  I'm spending a bundle on garden/hort
> type books.

Dunno if you're referring to Hortus III or Exotica... haven't heard of
Hortica, but I suppose...

Anyhow, I got my copy of Hortus III for $25-30 as a membership premium
by joining Garden Book Club.  I think it lists for about $150 now.

The real savings come not from the ordinary book purchases (which are
close to bookstore prices once you add shipping and handling), but from the
membership premiums, the bonus books (50% off a title after purchasing 4
or so books) and the occasional sale (up to 50% off).  8-)

Oh yes, there is the "introduce your friends to the Garden Book Club and
you both get membership premiums".   

I've been a member off and on for years.  Main benefit to me is the 
number of titles that I'd never see in the local (rather meagrely stocked)
bookstore.

Kay Klier
From: kw0426@shire.ac.arknet.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Moss culture
Date: 25 Jan 93 17:22:02 GMT
Article-I.D.: shire.00967290.46FAD860.13329
Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu

Hello!
This is:  kw0426@shire.ac.arknet.edu
I am interested in any information anyone might have on the subject
of moss culture.  I am interested not only in mosses, but in all 
non-vascular plants.  I am in need of tips for growing and maintaining
these plants, and tips for culturing tissues from these plants
(what Agar should I use?  What recipe?)
If anyone wishes to send me tips, or could point me in the direction
for more information, I would be most grateful!
Thanks for your time--
--Ken kw0426@shire.ac.arknet.edu
From: nicmad!klebba%astroatc.uucp@spool.cs.wisc.edu (Bob Klebba)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Woodchucks
Date: 26 Jan 93 04:31:38 GMT
Organization: Nicolet Instrument Corporation
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1

A thread about woodchuck extermination techniques a while ago reminded me
of a story.  An acquaintance who works in the local arboretum called the
Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources about woodchuck "hunting"
seasons and permits without identifying himself.  He was told that one
can shoot 'em any time of the year without a permit.  He also asked
whether live trapping was an effective technique of control.  The answer
was yes and that he could release the live woodchucks into the arboretum
to get rid of them.

Bob Klebba
Madison, Wisconsin, USDA zone 4
Inet: nicmad!klebba%astroatc.uucp@spool.cs.wisc.edu
"Feed the soil, not the plant"
Newsgroups: rec.gardens,misc.rural
From: gwv@eastrg2.cray.com (George Vandenberghe)
Subject: Re: Where will citrus prosper?
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Distribution: na
Date: 27 Jan 93 09:21:51 CST

In article <1k5ni5INNma5@aludra.usc.edu>, rmurphy@usc.edu (Bob Murphy) writes:
|> I will soon be moving to Columbia, South Carolina.
|> I love oranges, lemons, and grapefruit and am curious whether
|> these trees will grow well in this area.
|> 
|>                        Thanks,
|>                            Bob Murphy
|> 
|> p.s.  Please post responses to the newsgroup since my email address
|>       will soon change.
|> 
|> 
|>                           
|> 

I WILL STRESS IN MY RESPONSE THAT I HAVE NEVER GROWN
CITRUS IN SOUTH CAROLINA AND THE ADVICE THAT FOLLOWS
IS BASED ON WHAT I KNOW ABOUT CITRUS.  CONSULT
SOUTH CAROLINA EXTENSION AGENTS OR OTHER LOCAL EXPERTS
FOR BETTER ADVICE.   

     First the bad news.   Columbia  SC occasionally gets into the teens
in winter and has a lot of frost nights.   A citrus tree
planted outside would be severely damaged most winters esp lemons
and grapefruit.

    Now the good news.  Columbia has long hot summers and if
you can protect the trees during the winter you will
probably get enough summer heat to ripen lemons and maybe
oranges.  I think grapefruit would be tough.  But there
is a LONG history of people growing citrus in areas
with warm summers and lethally cold winters going back to
the middle ages in Europe.   Also a citrus tree in Columbia
would probably go completely dormant and would achieve 
its maximum hardiness most winters.  Florida citrus
is often damaged by a few degrees of frost after
a warm spell when the trees  are in active growth.

    I  suggest you try growing them in large containers
which spend most of their time outdoors.   In winter, move
them to the coolest place you can find that is protected
from frost or move them indoors to a sunny window.

The only reason I responded at all to this post is
because I think growing citrus your region would
be a really rewarding challenge and I wish I had
the opportunity.   I just bought a house in Maryland
and am going to try  lemons in containers this  spring;
growing citrus outdoors here (except for inedible
trifoliate oranges) is out of the question.
From: Bob.Batson@mtask.omahug.org (Bob Batson)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: where to find??
Date: 27 Jan 93 18:35:37 CST
Reply-To: bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org
Organization: Multitasking Systems, Kansas City
Followup-To: rec.gardens

misty@ac.dal.ca writes:

 > Hello!  Does anyone know where to find Atropa belladonna to
 > grow?  This will not be grown as a houseplant, but as part
 > of a research paper.  Thanks!

The following sells seeds of Atropa belladonna by mail-order.

        J.L. HUDSON, SEEDSMAN                   [CAT - $1US]
        P.O. Box 1058
        Redwood City, California 94064
        U.S.A.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: kammerer@cwis.unomaha.edu (Al Kammerer)
Subject: Re: Staghorn ferns?
Organization: University of Nebraska at Omaha
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 22:55:11 GMT


I used to buy Staghorns from some place in Puerto Rico, for
a plant store I opened in the 70s.  While all of the suggestions
seem reasonable, I would add a few.  

We used to take the staghorns down and dunk them in buckets filled
with a soluble fertilizer solution until they stopped sending up
bubbles.  We got a lot more water into them that way, and the added
benefit of foliar feeding.  Misting to water them was only possible
if they were kept moist.  I agree that they need more light than most 
people imagine ferns to need.  The only problem with too much light
is if they become dry, which can happen easily if they are not 
thoroughly wet.  Ferns can handle being wet all of the time, so
aim at not letting them become bone dry too often.  Occasional
dryness will keep disease (bacteria, fungi) down, but they had
better be dry only on cloudy days if they are in the sun.  Move
them out of the sun if they are going to be left dry for a while.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens