HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: MikeSummers@cup.portal.com (Michael - Summers)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: First plane (sailplane) advice?
Date: Fri,  8 Jan 93 08:28:49 PST
Organization: The Portal System (TM)
Distribution: world

Ok,  I've read the  FAQ and  decided to build a Standard class sailplane
as my first R/C craft.

I'd like to solicit comments on:
Dynaflite Butterfly
Airtronics Olympic II
SIG Riser 100

I  also need recommendations on books about sailplanes (building and flying)
and radios. (As my kids will eventually push me into power I thought I'd go
with a good 4ch setup.)

Thanks in advance for the help-- Mike.
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: bill@ssr.hp.com (Bill Chidester)
Subject: Re: Jet engines...
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 04:46:46 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Orlando Fl.
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8.2]

Chris (cbusch@ub.d.umn.edu) wrote:
:    Are there actaully rc jet engines?  I occasationally hear reference

  I've heard of two honest turbine jet engines.  One was made by a group
  of Porsche RCatics (Ref. "Lunatics"), and was a one-of-a-kinder.  It
  looked like it was made by Porsche engineers.  When asked how much it
  cost to make, they said "Oh, maybe around $20,000".  This is German for
  $50,000.

  There's a French firm said to be going into production of a turbofan
  engine for about $3500 -- they had one at the Topgun tourney last year
  and I've seen videos of it.  It looks and sounds like a turbofan.
  I've talked to three local jet jockeys in the Orlando area who tell me
  it doesn't seem to be quite ready for the world, but one of them has
  a severe "jet Jones", and I suspect he'll get one anyhow.  Starting is
  an experience -- they blow compressed air into it and hit "start".  
  Away she whines...

: to ducted fan engines, how do they work? If there are rc jet engines,
: are the jet engines pulse jet or normal turbine jets?

  There are ram jets available, but nobody in their right mind will fly
  them.  As near as I can tell, 49% of the energy emitted is heat, 50% 
  is sound and about 1% is thrust.  

  A ducted fan engine uses an extremely nervous reciprocating engine to drive
  a multibladed prop (or fan) inside a shroud.  There are also stationary
  blades which serve to "unscrew" the air, resulting in a more laminar airflow
  and increased thrust.  These engines usually spin >> 22,000 RPM, put out
  about 5 HP per cubic inch and have every conceivable problem a model engine
  can have -- vibration, noise, excess heat, carb instabilities, bearing 
  failures and they eat $10 glowplugs by the bushel basket.  If you're real
  lucky, the engine will seize when it fails and save the fan unit (only 
  costing about $300 for the engine instead of $500 for the engine and fan).
  Not for beginners.  Our club show team has three Byron's F-15s (two
  OS 90VFs each) and I get to see how much time it takes to keep these things
  in the air.  You have to be ready to make it your life.  Yet, about two
  times a year, we get people showing up at club meetings asking for help
  building a Byron or Violett jet they want to use as a "trainer".  Most of
  the jet guys have been in the hobby 5 to 10 years before tackling their
  first ducted fan model.

  Trainers should be like first girlfriends.  You will learn a lot more with
  one that's big, cheap and slow than you will with fast, good looking and
  expensive.

: Just curious.

  Don't give up, just remember the fun you had with the big, cheap and
  slow ones...

: --
: -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Chris Busch     cbusch@ub.d.umn.edu =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

-------------------------------
Bill Chidester   KE4WS
bill@a3177092.ssr.hp.com
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: hqp@cbnewsk.cb.att.com (hai.quang.pham)
Subject: hinge
Organization: AT&T
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 14:02:00 GMT
Keywords: help



I bought the Iron On Gapless Hinge from Granite State, but I did not
use it yet, anybody in the nets use it? Do you have to do anything
for the elevator or the rudder control?
Thanks
Hai Pham
From: torsten@rnivh.rni.sub.org (Torsten Leibold)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Training on PC's (repost)
Date: 9 Jan 93 14:43:54 GMT
Organization: Rhein-Neckar-Informationsdienst Viernheim

bms7y@ggsun.ee.Virginia.EDU (Brian Marshall Sadler) writes:

>I was surprised when I got no reply (over the holidays)
>so here I go again...

>Anybody using Microsoft Flight Simulator for training?
>How about other software?  I'm looking to buy a joystick

I've tried to use FS3 for R/C training in the very beginning of my R/C
"career", and was quite disappointed. The simulated Cessna doesn't
handle like any R/C plane I've flown yet. So I checked all flight
simulators I could get my hands on and finally I've stayed with Chuck
Yeager's Air Combat, cause the flight simulation is so simple that it
almost resembles real R/C planes. Although the power of the engines is
not scale (very low, in fact) it can help you in getting used to some
simple pattern maneuvres (there's no rudder, though) ...
Yeager's Air Combat is my choice of taste and I'm sure that other
pilot's would recommend different software ...

Bye,
  Torsten.

-- 
  +-------------------------------------------------------------------------+
  |   Torsten Leibold, Konrad-Adenauer-Allee 105, 6806 Viernheim, Germany   |
  |  UUCP: torsten@rnivh.rni.sub.org    ..!unido!orfeo!rnihd!rnivh!torsten  |
  +-------------------------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: mkfeil@bcrki9.bnr.ca (Max Feil)
Subject: Spinner backplate slippage cure
Organization: Bell-Northern Research
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 93 14:08:21 GMT

(This is my last post for today, I promise.)

I was having no end of trouble with the backplate of my Goldberg (4-pin) 2.5"
spinner slipping (APC 11-6 prop, OS 50 FSR motor). It didn't help that I needed
a spacing washer between the drive washer and the spinner backplate to give
cowl clearance. I tried everything, roughening the surfaces, cutting grooves
with my dremel tool, etc to try to increase friction, but I still could barely
even tighten the prop nut without the prop slipping out of position on the
backplate. When I did think it was right the prop would still come loose after
one flight.

I finally hit on the idea of throwing the dremel tool away, but keeping the
thin cut-off disks and putting one on each side of the spinner backplate. These
things grip like crazy!

See you later,
Max
--
Max Feil  mkfeil@bnr.ca | Disclaimer:
Bell-Northern Research  |   What do I know? I'm just a Nerd on the Big Ranch.
P.O Box 3511 Station C, |
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada.| "Enrich The Soil, Not EveryBody's Goal" Peter Gabriel
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: mckiou@cbnewse.cb.att.com (kevin.w.mckiou)
Subject: Re: Rocket powered R/C (Estes Astro Blaster)
Organization: AT&T
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 19:09:51 GMT

In article <C0Irzx.C5K@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu> ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib) writes:
>
>Just curious.. what do expendables in this class go for? I guess I might
>break down and write Aerotech for their catalog...

The local hobby store has F25s for about $8.50 which I think is about
retail.  I think you can do a bit better than that. If you are interested
in  a Phoenix try calling

Walt Meeks (owner)
Rocketman Hobbies
8839 N Knoxville
Peoria, IL  61615
(309) 691-3103

He seems to have about the best prices around on rocket stuff and, the
last time I ordered something from him, he gave me an extra 10% disc
for being a NAR member.  Plus, he charges no shipping.

I don't know what kind of price he would have on the Phoenix.  It retails
for $189, but it seems like discounters are selling it for ~$139. This
includes the reloadable motor casing which retails for ~$50.  I  believe
that there is a version of the Phoenix which is also available without
the reloadable motor casing, but don't know if Walt will know about it
yet.

If you want to call AeroTech for a catalog or more info on the
Phoenix  their number is (800) 752-8018.  If you want more detailed
info send me e-mail.

>
>I really do hope someone brings something like this to Muncie next time 
>they have an AMA Fun Fly (hint hint).
>
I should be there in August for the Spacemodeling Team flyoffs.  I'll
bring it with.

Kevin
From: MikeSummers@cup.portal.com (Michael - Summers)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: FAQ
Date: Fri,  8 Jan 93 08:14:41 PST
Organization: The Portal System (TM)
Distribution: world

As a rank beginner I'd like to see John's information posted- if not in 
the FAQ perhaps in a "USENET Beginner's guide to R/C".

I'll even  volunteer to but the Guide together.

Mike
From: davidc@hplsla.hp.com (David Cook)
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 16:10:28 GMT
Subject: HELP - MOS/FET Speed Controller Problem
Organization: HP Lake Stevens, WA
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc

For several years I have controlled my R/C truck with an older Futaba 2 channel
2 stick radio and a Futaba MC12B MOS/FET speed controller. Recently I changed
the radio to a Airtronics VT2P 2 channel pistol-grip radio. Still wanting to
use the MC12B I changed the Futaba G connector to Airtronics, re-adjusted the
neutral and high point pots, connected the motor (a Kyosho 22x1 Outlaw Stock
MEGA Motor) and thought I was all set to go. WRONG!!! I got lots of         
intermittant stutter both in the steering servo and the speed controller. This
was particularly apparent at slow speeds. Anyway I realized that since the
Airtronics receiver is a BEC type I should not feed the regulated +6 volts
from the controller back via the servo connector but should split it off and
feed it to the receiver's battery connector. I did this and got some improve-
ment but not what it should be. I can run the receiver with a seperate battery
and everything works great. Why is the +6 volts from the MC12B not good 
enough for the Airtronics receiver? I checked it with my meter and it is +6
volts although I have not looked at it on a scope to see what kind of noise
may be riding on it. Do I need another capacitor across the motor terminals?
What is the proper configuration for motor capacitors?

Any comments, suggestions, ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance for your responses.

Dave
From: cbusch@ub.d.umn.edu (Chris)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Plan #s from RCM
Date: 8 Jan 1993 22:45:46 -0600
Organization: University of Minnesota, Duluth
NNTP-Posting-Host: ub.d.umn.edu

I am wondering what are the plan numbers and prices for the Scimitar and the
"Combat Grimlin" and the price of plan #501 RCM basic trainer plane from
RCM.  Also, would it be worth while for me to buy the Flight Training Course
volume 1?
Thanx
--
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Chris Busch     cbusch@ub.d.umn.edu =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
 C(o_o))        _                        "The use of COBOL cripples the
   (=)         (_ -|- -|- is the         mind; its teaching should, 
  --|--        language of choice.       therefore, be reguarded as a
   /^\      Protest the use of BASIC!    criminal offense." -E.W. Dijkstra
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Wanted: Cheap run-of-the-mill standard VGA board. 
Wanted: RC airplane engines, radios, planes, etc
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: stand@austin.ibm.com (Stan Douglas)
Subject: Re: Flying wings...
Originator: stand@stand.austin.ibm.com
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 16:08:17 GMT
Organization: IBM Austin
Keywords: Flying Wings


The Simitar style airplanes are fairly popular.  They are designed by Evans and
have appeared in RCM from time to time.  The plans are available from RCM.  I
have one of the older original Simitars with a OS 25SFR.  The original plans were
for a 15 so I increased the size 10%.   The wing span is 56 inches.  It looks
huge, but actually it flys fairly fast and floats in for a landing.  These
airplanes fly very well.  It is actually one of the best flying that I have
owned.   It takes a little getting used to visually in that at first it is easy
to lose track of whether it is coming or going.  This is because of the lack of a
tail.  

There are several of these things flying around Austin, especially at the
Georgetown field.  One version there is over 80 inches to qualify it for "Big
Bird" status.  Construction is real easy.  I cut my own foam wing then sheeted
the leading and trailing edges, applied cap strips and then used a Weller
soldering gun to cut out the foam between the cap strips.  The fuse is a box type
construction with a very large vertical stab.  The hardest part of the whole deal
is making the template for cutting the foam wing.  Which is why myself and two
others here in Austin decided to mass produce a bunch of wings and fuse's and
servo trays for a wing that we call "Bird of Prey".   

A couple of issues ago, RCM had an article on the Combat Gremlin.  I have also
built two of these.  See my previous append.  We have actually modified the
design and are making kits of these things in an attempt to get a lot of them in
the air here so that we can get some events going.  They are made of foam wings
and plastic down spout fuse's.  They have a symmetrical wing with no dihedral and
are therefore hotter than the Simitar. But any one that can fly with out
assistance can fly one of these because they fly very well.  They have no landing
gear, so you hand launch them.  I just hold above the wing and give it an
under hand launch at about 15 degrees.  The feeling is that it just sort of flies
out of your hand.   The throttle is set so that if you pull the trim back the
motor quits.  So to land I pull the the trim back before chopping the throttle
and when I'm at about 10 feet close the throttle and belly land.  No go arounds
once you commit! 

I am really excited about these little planes.  They are super inexpensive and
fun to fly.  If you crash one there are no tears.  Just rebuild and in an evening
and go.  I had thought of having a spare wing and carring that around, but
they're so easy to build you might as well just have a whole spare plane.         

Happy New Year
Hope this sloppy weather lets up this weekend so I can fly!

Stan Douglas
stand@austin.ibm.com
From: pfoss@cmsa.gmr.com (Pete Foss PO/46)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: smoke systems for YS120FS
Date: 7 Jan 93 13:58:22 GMT
Reply-To: pfoss@cmsa.gmr.com
Organization: .................


In article 726340578snz@harrier.demon.co.uk, bob@harrier.demon.co.uk (Bob day) writes:
>By way of experimentation I'm installing smoke on an OS91 in a Pitts.. So far 
>I've tapped the backplae to provide pressure to the smoke tank, and wrapped
>some Ali tube round the head as a preheater.. That's about as far as i've 
>actually got... I have a Dubro smoke valve to turn the smoke on/of...

If you are talking about an OS91 four stroke, you won't get any crankcase pressure.
The crankcase is vented (thats what the oil drain nipple is). On most
four strokes you need an electric pump and a check valve.
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: D2KAK@VM1.CC.UAKRON.EDU
Subject: Ducted Fans and Jets
Organization: The University of Akron
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 17:49:50 GMT

After reading the postings I find that some of you consider ducted
fan modeling a bit harder than it needs to be. I have a Violett
Viojet that is probably the most well manufactured piece of
equipment I own. The BVM (Nelson) .81 engine is also a work of art.
Contrary to popular opinion, you don't need to run the engine to death
every time you fly. Most ducted fan flying is done at a rich needle
setting and if you aren't getting 5 to 10 flights on a plug, your
doing something wrong. I know a normal engine might go a year on the
same plug, but look at the performance difference. I have NO problems
with vibration, noise (using a Violett Pipe), or heat. Ducted fan
models DO take a bit more maintenance than your average trainer, but
so does a helicopter. In short, don't knock ducted fans cause you've
seen somebody having problems with theirs. I'v seen guys have problems
with trainers too.I do agree; however, that fans are NOT for beginners.
The speeds that modern fan jets fly require a bit more than the normal
amount of craftsmanship and flying ability. Anyone who can handle a
modern pattern ship, should be able to handle any of the jets I've
seen. Keep Em flying!
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: rexm@sad.hp.com (Rex Musgrave)
Subject: Re: What is a ferite bead?
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 22:59:42 GMT
Organization: HP Sonoma County (SRSD/MWTD/MID)
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

Brian Carey 283-4181 (careyb@dallas.jsc.nasa.gov) wrote:
: 
: What is a ferite bead? The one talked about below.
: 
: The "Y" harness might be acting like an antenna and causing interference
: with the receiver.  I have had this problem and fixed it by running the base
: of the "Y" cable through a ferite bead (one turn) to choke off the RF. This
: worked with an airtronics receiver.  When I install servos in the wings of
: my gliders I go ahead and put the ferrite bead in every installation and
: have not had any problems since.
Ferrite is from the word Ferrous or iron based.      

A ferrite bead is a toroid (doughnut) made of this iron based
material. What the writer was talking about was to run the
control wire through the center of the toroid, wrap it back
around and through the center once again (one turn).

When currents flow through a wire they create electric and magnetic
fields around the wire. By passing the wire through the ferrite
bead, these fields cause currents to flow in the bead which is 
a lossy material for RF (Radio Frequency) energy. Therefore, if
you are receiving this RF energy into the wires to your servo,
the energy will be dissipated in the bead in the form of heat
before it can get back into your receiver circuitry and mess things
up there.
From: seanm@terapin.com (Sean McCaskey)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Attaching canopy to fuselage
Date: 8 Jan 93 19:28:41 PST
Organization: BBS

In article <79381@hydra.gatech.EDU>, mj4@prism.gatech.EDU (JONES,MICHAEL D.)
writes:
>
>I am just finishing a Super Sportster 40.  The last thing that I need to do
>is glue the canopy to the fuselage.  The instructions mention using CA glue
>but I was wondering if epoxy or some other glue might be better.  Also, 
>should I glue the canopy to the monocote or should I cut the monocote where
>the canopy touches the fuselage?  I would appreciate any advice or personal
>experiences.
>


  I have tried many cements to hold the canopy on my models... I have found
nothing that compares to RC-56 glue.  It looks alot like white glue, but holds
to the canopy material and the monokote well with no need to trim the covering
away.  It is VERY reasonably priced.  A small bottle (good for hundreds of
applications) is $1.79 at my local hoby store.

---Sean---
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: mwp@ms9.mis.semi.harris.com (Mark W. Poole)
Subject: Slopes in Florida??
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 21:53:21 GMT
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Reply-To: mwp@ms9.mis.semi.harris.com
Organization: Harris Semiconductor

Does anyone know of places in Florida to slope soar??  I took
my Metrick on a business trip to Oregon a couple of months back
and slope-soared it east of Portland.  I'm hooked, and willing
to drive to do it again!!

There ARE hills in Florida, towards the center of the state,
but I've never heard of any places to slope soar.

Thanks in advance!

Mark.
From: cwatters@acorn.co.uk (Colin Watters)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: New Zealand Elec Flight Assoc
Date: 11 Jan 93 09:44:44 GMT
Organization: Acorn Computers Ltd, Cambridge, England


An extract from the Christmas edition of Electric Flight UK mag...

=======================================================================
NEW ZEALAND

Travelling to the other side of the world now, I welcome a letter from 
New Zealand's Des M. Richards.

The New Zealand Electric Flight Association has been inaugurated using 
the BEFA as its role model.

Des would very much like to see their Association continue its close
relationship with the BEFA and asks members an readers from any part of
the world to 'communicate with this side of the planet' and to let them
know if you plan a visit so they 'may organise something for them'. So 
let's give our New Zealand friends every encouragement and drop Des a
line at:

Des M. Richards, 
The New Zealand Electric Flight Association,
13 Collins Cresent,
Feilding,
New Zealand

=======================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib)
Subject: Re: Rocket powered R/C (Estes Astro Blaster)
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 23:10:51 GMT

In article <1993Jan8.190951.26842@cbnewse.cb.att.com> mckiou@cbnewse.cb.att.com (kevin.w.mckiou) writes:

>>I really do hope someone brings something like this to Muncie next time 
>>they have an AMA Fun Fly (hint hint).

>I should be there in August for the Spacemodeling Team flyoffs.  I'll
>bring it with.

Better and better! I'll put the Team Trials on my calendar! Has the date
been set as yet?







-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Iskandar Taib                          | The only thing worse than Peach ala
Internet: NTAIB@SILVER.UCS.INDIANA.EDU |    Frog is Frog ala Peach
Bitnet:   NTAIB@IUBACS                 !
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: sorgatz@avatar.tti.com (sorgatz)
Subject: Re: Materials for cheap'n'dirty fuse?
Organization: Transaction Technology Inc.
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 21:42:07 GMT

In article <1993Jan7.192258.23953@informix.com> robertw@informix.com (Robert Weinberg) writes:
>What have people used for an instant, cheap fuse - light enough for slope soaring?  
>I've seen plastic "wiffle" bats used, and heard about plastic gutter downspouts.  
>What kind of downspout do you use? Brand name? Square or round?
>
>What else might one use for a quick fuse?
>

 Ahhhh yes! The 'instant quickie' airplane! Try using a mailing tube! Yes! I
found that a coat of polyester resin makes it stronger and hot-fuel proof..
..light too. The other trick is to make a mandrel, spray it with that Teflon
Cote (tm) stuff that is used to fix non-stick cookware. Then wrap a turn of
1/128" aluminum foil around it, trim the edge for a butt-joint fit and wrap 
a layer of thin fiberglas cloth-soaked-in-epoxy OVER the foil. Do this so the
joints are 120 degrees off. Now add the third layer: Another foil wrap. Wipe
extra epoxy over the joint and situate it such that the 3 are evenly spaced
at 120 degrees around the circle. Let it dry for a few days at 175-220 degrees
in the oven (your spouse/SO will NOT like this, be cool...offer them dinner
OUT as a bribe!) When you pull the new fuse off the mandrel, do so in a twist
motion and be careful. You now have a very advanced, composite materials fuse
that can withstand unbelievable torque along the tube's length. Trim and drill
this item using very high speed stones and a dremel. I've made some as small
as 5/16" and as large as 1.5". It takes time to develop the skill/tool set, and
you can add carbon fibers for even better strength.



-Avatar-> (aka: Erik K. Sorgatz) KB6LUY           +-------------------------+
TTI(sorgatz@soldev.tti.com)                       *   Think Eco, not EGO!   *
3100 Ocean Park Blvd. Santa Monica, CA  90405     +-------------------------+
(OPINIONS EXPRESSED DO NOT REFLECT THE VIEWS OF CITICORP OR ITS MANAGEMENT!)
Lines: 14
Date: Thu,  7 Jan 93 11:26:47 MST
From: mark@baloo.ee.byu.edu (Mark Larsen)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: out of control
	<BENCZE.93Jan6094228@isl.stanford.edu>

     > bencze@isl.stanford.edu (William J. Bencze) writes:
     >  I use a 3/32" phono plug and jack like those found on small
     >	transistor radios...

This seems like a great idea.  One thing that one has to be careful
with when using non-stock switches (like those from Radio Shack) is
that many are not built to handle the vibrations you get with a model
plane.  Weird things can happen if the switch contacts start vibrating
open and closed at a high rate during flight.  This may be not be a
problem with phono jacks, but I think I would probably be pretty
careful trying this...

Mark Larsen

Newsgroups: rec.models.rc