HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: Re: Needs new fuel pump?
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 21:21:42 GMT

In article <1993Jan11.103903.1@cc.uvcc.edu>, coldje@cc.uvcc.edu writes:
>I'm thinking about buying a 66 VW bug.  It's cheap.  One problem
>though, there seems to be gas in the oil.  The current owner is
>clue-less and wants it out of his garage fast.  Am I off the
>mark by thinking that the fuel pump needs to be replaced and is
>leaking gas into the cankcase?
>
>Thanks in advance.
>S. Jeff Cold
>jeffco@fac.uvcc.edu
>
>

One of the common ways of getting gas in the oil in a VW is through a 
carburetor problem. Usually there is some condition which causes
the engine to run rich, or allows gas to enter the manifold when
the engine is shut down.

There are a couple of possibilities, one, the electric choke is
either sticking or maladjusted, two, either the float is malfunctioning
or the main jet is too large. When the car is running too rich what
will happen is the excess fuel that is not burnt away remains on
the cylinder wall, and eventually washes into the crankcase.

With a bad float, excess fuel will find its way into the manifold
either while the engine is running, or for a short time after
the engine has been shut off and there is still some slight
residual fuel pressure in the system. Check the carb first.


Ric

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: zowie@daedalus.stanford.edu (Craig "Powderkeg" DeForest)
Subject: Re: '74 Super...Valves
Organization: Stanford Center for Space Science and Astrophysics
Date: 5 Jan 93 22:52:23

In article <foo> db6j+@andrew.cmu.edu (Douglas S. Brashear) writes:
   Okay...its me again with my wonderful '74 SuperBeetle also wondering to
   myself "Whats up with that"...
   anyways...
   I have replaced the oil, plugs, air filter, fuel filter, and I'm gonna
   do the points too; how many people out there think I should adjust the
   valves too?

   STIPULATION: before you give me a 'yes, do the valves' answer, you have
   to have done it before yourself...successfully.  I have the "Idiot Book"
   and Mr. Muir makes it sound so easy...it also sounds like a major
   bonding event with your car.  

yes, do the valves.

No problem doing 'em.

Things to watch for: use a box-end wrench and a small screwdriver that fits
through the box end.  Then you can hold the nut still while you turn the
screw and vice versa.  If Ghod meant for us to adjust valves, he'd have
given us three hands -- one for the screwdriver, one for the wrench, and one
for the feeler gauge.  I usually leave the box end wrench hanging vertically 
down from the nut, while I adjust the valve with the screwdriver.  Then I 
put down the gauges and tighten the nut while holding the screw, and re-check
the clearance.

Be careful tightening the nuts.  You want to snug 'em down pretty well, but
not to strip the threads, which is no fun for anyone.  I think there's a 
torque specification but I've never bothered to use it.  I use a little
10cm long 10mm wrench, and pull fairly sharply on the end, to snug 'em in.

Don't worry if it takes two or three tries to get a particular valve the
first time around.  You'll get better.

To get the feel of a feeler gauge, try loosening the gap, then sliding the
gauge back and forth as you slowly tighten the gap.  You'll definitely 
feel it make contact just before it seizes up.  That's the feel you're
looking for.  You can double check your .006" clearances by trying to
slip a .008" gauge in.  If it goes in, it's too loose.  If the .006" doesn't
go in, it's too tight.

Putting the valve covers back on can be a bit of a pain:  you've got to
align the cork gaskets, and may even need new ones.  I once trashed a cork
gasket by not lining it up inside the head cover, and spent a quart of oil
driving to the dealership to get a new one.

Oh -- and get a comfortable but thrashed blanket to lie on.  The driveway
doesn't feel that great under your shoulder/head as you work under the
car.

This all sounds very complicated, but the procedure takes a max of 20
minutes for me now; usually only around 10, if I only decide to tweak
one or two valves a little.  YMMV.  Good bonding!

--
DON'T DRINK SOAP! DILUTE DILUTE! OK!
From: beck@sequent.com ("W. Scott Beck")
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: 1979 VW Rabbit Diesel C update
Date: 12 Jan 93 16:50:19 GMT
Article-I.D.: sequent.1993Jan12.165019.19153
Distribution: usa
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems, Inc.

Hi there,

I want to thank everyone who has sent me mail, it's great to have
this network. Here is the update, I'm not very mechnical in the 
wasy of cars let alone the diesel so when I got the gun out, my 
younger son told me to recharge my battery put it back in, and
try starting it up. Guess what? I put the battery in, let the glow plugs
get hot, pumped the pedel 4 times and tried starting it, IT WORKED
started right up, let it get warmed up for about 15 min then took it
for a drive, it ran a little rough at first (about 2 min) then cleared
right up. This morning I tried starting it (31 degrees temp) and it
started right up. The question now is, is it my battery, alt? I have
a new belt, so I'm going down to check my charging system to see if there is
anything wrong with that.
Any help or opinions would be great

I'm still thinking about getting rid of the car so if there is any interest
Please call me.

Aloha Oregon, just outside of Portland, 503-
649-8234

Scott
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw,ba.wanted,misc.forsale.wanted
From: philg@bozo.net.com (Phil Geller)
Subject: Wanted: VW Vanagon Westfalia
Organization: Network Equipment Technologies, Inc.
Distribution: ba
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 04:07:53 GMT

I'm looking for a VW Vanagon Westfalia with the full camper set-up.
1986 or thereabouts would be ideal, but I'm will to consider models
+/- 5 years.
-- 
Phil Geller				Email: philg@net.com
Network Equipment Technologies 		Phone: (415) 780-4363
800 Saginaw Drive 			Fax:   (415) 780-5001
Redwood City, CA 94063
From: wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: [A] Bus BBS
Date: 4 Jan 1993 14:39:47 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: thor.ins.cwru.edu


Hey now, all.

This showed up on rec.music.gdead.  I haven't checked it out yet.

---
For those of you with a VW van and a modem, I just found out about a BBS
devoted to them. It is called POPTOPS (although the first logon menu says
"CACHE". It can be found at (818) 248-2719. Does anyone know of any clubs,
groups, etc. dealing with VW vans?

---

I followed up to the messege, mentioning VWCA, VVWCA, SOTO and LiMBO.

Bill
-- 
William Claspy		Case Western Reserve University
wpc@po.cwru.edu
From: aeiham@waikato.ac.nz
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Carbs vs Fuel Injection
Date: 12 Jan 93 15:39:58 +1300
Organization: University of Waikato, Hamilton, New Zealand

My personel opinion on Carbs vs. FI is dual Carbs as on the first fastbacks.

I may be a little biased due to my bad experience in Colorado with a 71
fastback.  The early FI systems employed a solenoid which switched of and on
every firing and it's easy to imagine what happened when one fails open.

Grant English
english@kea.lincoln.ac.nz
From: boubez@tastesgreat.rutgers.edu (Toufic Boubez)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Carbs vs Fuel Injection
Date: 7 Jan 93 16:31:18 GMT
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

BARANSKI@veamf1.nusc.navy.mil (Jim Baranski) writes:

>Now that We've gone through the Air Vs Water War, 
>let me open up another can of worms....

>How do people feel about Carburators vs. Fuel Injection?  I'm trying to
>make an informed decision on the merits and flaws of each...

Ah yes, that war again :-) I think we just finished talking about it a few
months ago!

>As I understand it, FI is (or can be) more efficient, stays in tune, and is
>generally dependable in new cars...

>But in old VWs the FI parts are $$$ and the parts can't be repaired, they have
>to be replaced...

>All the blasted wires and sensors seem like a lot of things to go wrong...

From my own experience, after going through 2 "black boxes" in two years on
one of my 914s ('71 1.7L), I switched to a set of twin Webers. The
conversion wasn't exactly cheap, but you don't have to do anything to those
babies for years, once they're synchronised and running. Performance-wise,
it might be psychological, but I felt that the Webers give _a lot_ more top
end, and hey, I loved that swoosh sound behind my head! 8-) I don't know
about emissions, since this was in Montreal and we didn't have regular
inspections or strict emission controls then. I also remember that fuel
mileage suffered, and the carbs were easily flooded.

On the other hand, from my experience of installing a FI system on a
carburetted Ninja engine, calibrating the FI properly can be hell (_IS_
hell, actually), but if nothing breaks down, which it won't if the
installation is done properly, and you use a reputable system with new
parts, FI can give you better idling and more power than carbs. As usual,
with any of these experiences and advice in general, your mileage might
vary.

On still a third hand :-), I think that a lot, if not most, GP bikes use
expensive carbs in race trim, which apparently give a smoother power
delivery, and can be very finely tuned, so go figure...

>Can a Carb - Engine be tuned up to match a FI engine?
Tricky question here... What do you measure for a match, peak power,
torque, mileage, etc... there are a lot of parameters.

>Which is better, High Tech, or Low Tech?
Sorry, but I don't participate in religious arguments :-)
 
>Jim Baranski

            R 2 4      Toufic Boubez
            |_|_|      boubez@cesl.rutgers.edu
            | | |      Computational Engineering Systems Lab
            1 3 5      CAIP Center, Rutgers University, NJ
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: hersh@expo.lcs.mit.edu (Jay Hersh)
Subject: Re: busted horns on 88 Golf
Organization: X Consortium, MIT Laboratory for Computer Science
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 20:32:41 GMT

boubez@tastesgreat.rutgers.edu (Toufic Boubez) writes:

>Hi there. Welcome back to everybody, and Happy New Year! As a Christmas
>present, my horns stopped functioning. Oops, let me rephrase that :-)
>The horns on my 88 Golf stopped working. The deterioration was slow coming,
>starting as an intermittent problem a couple of weeks ago (the horn
>would sometimes sound, and sometimes wouldn't). Before examining the
>relays, which look like a whole lot of pain to get at (why did they ever
>put them in such an inaccessible place?), I'd like to check whether it's
>just a grounding problem. I did some preliminary testing, and found out
>that at least one of the two horns is getting 12V when the contact on the
>sttering wheel is activated. The other one is not getting anything. This
>might be a compounded problem, in that the horns are probably not grounded
>properly, _AND_ one of the relays is busted. Any other thoughts, tips,
>ideas, etc? Thanks in advance.

Well if you recall my prior experience in trying to replace my horns
The place where they mount had becmoe very rusted, so much so that
even though I replaced the horns the new ones were not getting grounded.
Mine too began as an intermittent problem, then deteriorated, so I would
strongly suggest using a good drop light so you can see well into the
area where the horns mount and checking the area on and around the mount
for signs of rust which may reduce the ability of the horns to ground

(oh BTW I am assuming you have single pole horns...)

	JaH

--
Hopfen und Malz, Gott erhalts
From: tannenba@fnala.fnal.gov
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Help! Bizzarre gas tank problems!!
Date: 4 Jan 93 18:03:26 GMT
Organization: Fermi National Accelerator Lab
NNTP-Posting-Host: fnala.fnal.gov

I have a very strange problem with my '82 Jetta (65k miles-- 30k since I've had
it). The gas gauge was stuck about three weeks ago, and went down slowly. I
accidently backed into something (about 1-2 mph) and that seemed to knock it
loose. However, the next time I went to get gas I couldn't get as much gas in
as I thought-- it has a 10.5 gallon tank and I could only get about 8.5 gals in
( I was thinking should get more like 9-10). I assumed it was some problem with
the gas gauge and decided to go by the mileage. This was ok, until I ran out of
gas. :( When I filled up the tank, I was only able to get 9 gallons of gas.
Somehow I've lost 1.5-2 gallons of capacity in my tank. Anyone have any ideas?
I'm a grad student so replacing the tank isn't much of a option.....

						Benn Tannenbaum
						tannenba@fnald.fnal.gov
From: colemant@yvax.byu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: how to remove '71 bus dash?
Date: 5 Jan 93 09:29:22 -0700
Organization: Brigham Young University

The dash board lights don't work in my '71 bus.  Makes for a very dark interior
at night.

I was going to remove the four screws that hold the non instrament panel (gas
level and speedo is the extent of it) and just pull it off but it didn't work.
There are four knobs that got in the way... the fresh air and heater...
I tried to pull off the knobs, they slid out .25" but then stop.  I don't want
to force anything before checking with you pros out there.

Thank you for the help/advice in accessing (sp?) the lights for the speedometer
and gas guage.

--Tom
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: bossoj@aix.rpi.edu (Joseph Charles Bossolini)
Subject: Re: Q: will an '81 1.7L diesel fit in a fox?
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 18:13:44 GMT

In article <1hssa6INNo7m@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> co940@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Nicholas E. Damato) writes:
[stuff deleted]
>(message #11086) I have a rebuilt VW diesel engine and i was
>curious if anyone had any knowledge or experience with putting
>the 1.6/1.7 rabbit engines in a Fox.
>eny info would be appreciated.
> 
>Thanx,
>nick.

I am not positive, but aren't Fox engines longitudinal and Rabbit engines
horizontal?  It would seem you would have to have a Fox transmission and maybe
get special motor mounts...  I am only ghuessing since I have an Audi diesel
that is longitudinal and I know that Rabbit diesel accessories do not always
work correctly...

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: seymour@bnr.ca (Jeffrey Seymour)
Subject: Euro halogens $$$
Reply-To: seymour@bnr.ca (Jeffrey Seymour)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 93 13:22:42 GMT

Does antone know of a cheap place to get European halogen bulbs?  I have a Passat that comes with the usual unimpressive lights and have heard the European bulbs are excellent but expensive ($500).  Any suggestions?
From: jbc@linus.mitre.org (John B. Campbell)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: [A] Engine Q's & more
Date: 6 Jan 93 22:15:30 GMT
Organization: Research Computer Facility, The MITRE Corporation, Bedford MA


To add one little item about J.C. Whitney and about a vital tool that is
pretty cheap from them.

You'll need to synchronize the carburetors on the '67 pancake engine.
It's a simple procedure but really needs the proper gauge.  I believe
Whitney still sells one that's about the size of a half a beer can,
fits on top of the carb, and helps you make the length adjustments
on the rods that interconnect the carbs.  It's not expensive and
it pays off in smoother performance.  

On second thought, if you (Jeff) think it would be useful, I'll offer
to sell mine for ten bucks postpaid.  I rebuilt my 67 squareback engine
three times using mostly the Idiot book (yeah, it had no floor after
the first five or six years but it was my wife's car and she suffered
through all those heater-less winters valiantly while I drove the
Porsche and old Mercedes.) Not likely to need the tester anymore.

--
****************************************************************
*                                      *                       *
* John B. Campbell                     *   This space          *
* MITRE Corporation                    *                       *
* Bedford, MA 01730                    *   intentionally       *
* (617)271-3434                        *                       *
* <jbc@mitre.org>                      *   blank.              *
*                                      *                       *
****************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca (Andy)
Subject: [W] Fuel Efficiency not up to par (GTI)
Keywords: fuel efficiency bad
Organization: Math, Stats & CS, Dalhousie University, Halifax, NS, Canada
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 22:51:19 GMT

Hi there,

Yup, another problem, has to do with fuel efficiency (85 GTI - 130K)

I get about 13L/100Km in the city and about 9.2 on the highway. I remember
when it was 10/7 when I bought the car 2 years ago. Oil is changed
reguraly, the air filter is clean, ignition timing is at around 11 degrees,
relatively new distributor cap and wires, Leistritz axhaust. I remember
reading that it could be the oxygem sensor. Would it cause such a difference? 
Is there anything that could couse it? (Fuel filter changed about 1.5 
years ago) I use Super gasoline. Engine has a little bit of blow-by.

Thank you for any suggestions.
ANdy

-- 
---....-------------****----*******-) GTI FUN-atic                      o  
--. \/ .-----GTI---******--*********)         Don't forget to bike:     ,-\
--.\/\/.-----------******--*********)  (and sail and windsurf and ski)  0\-0
---....-------------****----*******-) gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca,goaway@ac.dal.ca
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: I have leaky spark plugs!
Date: 12 Jan 93 00:34:15 GMT
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.

In article <1993Jan11.204559.16899@aio.jsc.nasa.gov>, poirot@widget.jsc.nasa.gov (Daniel Poirot) writes:
>In article <C0nCt2.KF6@umassd.edu> rgolen@UMASSD.EDU writes:
>>In article <1993Jan10.150547.28292@aio.jsc.nasa.gov>, poirot@mickey.jsc.nasa.gov (Daniel Poirot) writes:
>>>
>>>Howdy from Houston!
>>>
>>>I have a 84' Audi 5000S with a NEW problem.  (~100K mi. 125-140 psi on all 5!)
>>>
>>>I started the car, just to see it work again, and saw BUBBLES coming
>>>out from around the spark plugs.
>>
>>At the risk of sounding "trite" but was it bubbles as a result of
>>air escaping or bubbles as in water boiling? The water will tend to
>>boil at or near the plug because the plug is sitting directly on
>>top of the combustion chamber.
>
>The car was STONE cold.  I was working on the radiator, remember?
>
>Actually, I only saw bubbles at two of the five plugs.  
>
>My question should have been something like: "How high to torque my
>plugs?" or "How many trips in and out of the head can a gasket stand?"
>or "Are Champion plugs crap?"
>
>-- 
>Daniel Poirot           poirot@aio.jsc.nasa.gov
>NASA JSC                "The mind is a terrible thing."
>ER3                     tel: (713)483-8793
>Houston, TX 77058       fax: (713)483-3204
Dan as I mentioned in my earlier posting Bosch plugs should be 
torqued up to 25 foot pounds or so....I've never used 
Champions...Bosch only. Try Bosch.

Ric
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: pebi@aem.umn.edu (Peter A. Bidian)
Subject: New Passat in Europe
Organization: University of Minnesota
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 04:16:47 GMT

I saw pictures of a new Passat in a german newspaper. It is supposed
to come in August (if I remember well). It has big headlights and a
grille. The back looks a little bit like a Volvo.

Peter
From: bls3@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (BRADLEY L. SNYDER)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Change Coolant in Vanagon
Date: 7 Jan 93 17:34:24 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

In article <28242@dog.ee.lbl.gov>, envrej@epb10.lbl.gov (Richard Jansky) writes:
>
>One and a half years ago I got my engine rebuilt. Over the holidays I
>replaced the thermostat and lost thereby about 1.5 gallons of coolant.
>The owner's as well as the factory manual say the coolant must be
>*phosphate-free*. I called up the shop. They know about it, use normal
>coolant with phosphate and say it doesn't matter.
>
>a) Is the shop's answer true?
>
DON'T BELIEVE IT!  I used to think that way also, with my '87 vanagon.  When
the water pump went on it, I just used whatever antifreeze K-mart had.  That
was a year or two ago.  Now the heads have started leaking, and I am replacing
them myself.  The heads are all pitted where the gasket contacts them.  Heads
cost $400 each!!  To be safe, always use the VW antifreeze at least in the
Vanagons!

-- 
---------------------+-----------------------------------
Brad Snyder     BLS3 | Delphi: BRADSNYDER
Lehigh University    | The First Floor: 215-760-0527, #1
758-4648, 4649, 4927 | "Temba: his arms wide", "Darmok"
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re:[A] '74 emissions-HELP!
Date: 4 Jan 93 15:16:31 GMT
Organization: University of Louisville

In article <QfFmEU_00iV0M1DrJJ@andrew.cmu.edu>, "Douglas S. Brashear" <db6j+@andrew.cmu.edu> writes:
> Well, every December is state inspection time for me and my '74
> SuperBeetle...this year, among other things, the emissions failed.
> The requirement in PA is 600 hydrocarbons...unfortunately mine was around 1300.
> The CO2 and CO were all under the limit, so they're okay...I think the
> idle RPM's were 1200 or something.

I find that my Volkswagens fall out of tune rather quickly, but they still seem
to run well.  I had about 1360 hydrocarbons, and massive CO on my bus, even
though it ran fine.  What I did was get new points, condensor, plugs, cap and
rotor, and air filter.  (Had to have a fist-full of receipts to show them that
I corrected everything) I didn't put it all on, but the points they make now
are crap and I end up having to replace them about every 3000 miles.  Oh yeah,
set the timing and the valves.  Then set your carburetor; idle should be around
950 RPM.  If you have a 009 distributor, get a normal one (at least for the
testing ;)  Buying good gas never hurts either.

Good luck

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
|pH Fred == pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu    |                               |
|        == ..!psuvax1!ulkyvx.bitnet!pgheit01 |   IBM-  It may be slow, but   |
|           University of Louisville          |    at least it's expensive.   |
|                Louisville, KY               |                               |
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw