HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: dhm1@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (DANIEL HILL MCCAULEY)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: PETTY PYTHON PROBLEM - POSSIBLY???
Date: 25 Jan 93 05:02:45 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University


    I have a small ball python which I recently found a small wound on it.
    This wound is not deep nor does it show any kind of blood.  In it's neck
    near it's head (about and inch away) there is a rip in the skin about the
    size of (3/8"x1/4") wide which is revealing flesh underneath. (This flesh
    looks like just raw chicken meat.  Ya know what I mean?)  My question is,
    should I be deeply concerned about this or will this quickly heal, and is
    there anything I should do to this thing?  Thanks for any help you may
    provide for this poor critter!

        -Dan

            "Owner of the friendliest Burmese Python until you feed it!"

            "Owner of a skinless ball python  :(  "
-- 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Daniel H. McCauley IV      ,__o  -UH OH!      o__,      Lehigh University   |
| Electrical Engineering   _-\_<,               ,>_/-_    UC #29 Box 58A      |
| DHM1@NS3.CC.LEHIGH.EDU  (*)/'(*)             (*)`\(*)   Bethlehem, PA 18015 |
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: kamalm@sco.COM (Kamal A. Mostafa)
Subject: Re: Help! Is my Ig Sick?
Organization: The Santa Cruz Operation, Inc.
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 15:40:43 GMT


David Stanley <ds7h+@andrew.cmu.edu> writes:
 | I had a problem with my Iguana, Nighta, about three weeks ago.  He began
 | to loose his appetite and eventually got too weak to eat.  [...]


Do you know what actually caused the problem in the first place?
I've heard lots of stories of "healthy" iguanas who suddenly just
stopped eating and died.  Is this a bacterial thing, or maybe
internal parasites?


 | Keep a close watch on
 | the base of your iguana's tail because it's a good indication of whether
 | or not he's loosing too much weight.  Good luck
 | 
 | David 


How long does it take for an iguana's tail to start thinning once its
stopped ingesting food?  Are we talking days or weeks?

Thanks for the info!

-k
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: IEI036G@tjuvm.tju.edu (Mark F. Miller)
Subject: Re: QUESTION 'BOUT RATS
Organization: Thomas Jefferson University
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 22:54:00 GMT

In article <1993Jan21.032448.74257@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu>
dhm1@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (DANIEL HILL MCCAULEY) writes:
 
>
>
>    This is probably going to sound like a stupid question. Does the fresh
>    blood of a rat or mouse etc... pose any threat to the human feeding it to
>    his/her snake. (i.e. diseases , etc... spread from the rat to the human
>    through the contact of each other's blood.) It seems to me to be very
>    improbable but I am just making sure.  Thanks!
>
>    -Dan
 
There some diseases that wild rats carry in their blood (most notably
bubonic plague) but these are not likely to be encountered in captive
lab rats usually used to feed snakes. It's not a bad idea to practice
good hygiene regarding animal bood and to wash hands and surfaces that
might be contaminated because bacteria can grow in it, etc.
 
         Regards,
                  Mark F. Miller                 FAX: 215-464-3561
               iei036g@tjuvm.tju.edu             CIS: 76702, 1127
         Herpetology Online Network (SysOp) -->  BBS: 215-698-1905
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: IEI036G@tjuvm.tju.edu (Mark F. Miller)
Subject: Where to aquire reptile thermostats
Organization: Thomas Jefferson University
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1993 23:02:59 GMT

In article <C17L44.CIB@siemens.com>
aad@siemens.com (Anthony Datri) writes:
 
>
>>Considering the other costs involved in maintaining reptiles, a thermostat
>>is not a luxury item. I would consider it essential.
>
>Does that mean that you actually have a source for them?  I can't use what
>I can't find.
 
 
You can purchase top quality proportional thermostats from Bob Clark, a well
known boid breeder. His contact info is in the "breeders list" in this news
group, or you can get his address/phone from his display ads in "Reptile &
Amphibian" Magazine. Valentine Equipiment (800-438-7883) also sells various
thermostats and heating devices for herpetologists although the prices are
a tad higher than Clark.
         Regards,
                  Mark F. Miller                 FAX: 215-464-3561
               iei036g@tjuvm.tju.edu             CIS: 76702, 1127
         Herpetology Online Network (SysOp) -->  BBS: 215-698-1905
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: lamont@cup.hp.com (LaMont Jones)
Subject: Re: Handling rats & Burmese
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 02:44:52 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1lj PL8]

Anthony A. Datri (aad@siemens.com) wrote:

: Lessons of the day:

: o Don't smell like a rodent when feeding a Burmese

Learned that one.  Repeated the lesson far more times than I'd care
to recall.

: o Stun the food quite thoroughly before uncovering the animal, and either
:   drop in the food through a slit, or do so from a distance.

Or better yet, remove the snake from the cage and take it to the
bucket/whatever where dinner is waiting, or use a second door to
introduce the animal.  That way, the snake doesn't get confused
that food always enters the cage when the door is opened.  After
all, they are creatures of habit.

And always remember:  The big ones are stronger than you.  They'll win.


lamont
From: scott.astle@freddy.ersys.edmonton.ab.ca (Scott Astle) 
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: SNAKES...PURCHASING..
Date: 21 Jan 93 00:52:00 GMT
Reply-To: scott.astle@freddy.ersys.edmonton.ab.ca (Scott Astle) 
Distribution: world
Organization: Freddy's Place BBS - Edmonton, AB - 403-456-4241

Good Morning to all...everywhere.... I am tring to track down a good
deal on a snake as a pet.  I prefer something that is extremely tame,
been handled lots, and the owner has had no problem with feedings or
medical.. Gaurenteed to be going to the best of homes... Avid snake
lover...just running on low budget. Hope to hear from you here in Red
Deer Alberta...chat to you later.
    
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: drk@leland.Stanford.EDU (David Koehler)
Subject: Re: QUESTION 'BOUT RATS
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 93 17:38:35 GMT

In article <16B5D135E1.IEI036G@tjuvm.tju.edu> IEI036G@tjuvm.tju.edu 
(Mark F. Miller) writes:

>Rats and mice are NOT known to carry rabies. Perhaps they are too small
>to survive an attack by a carnivore.

I think that there are more factors involved than simply size, though.  
I've heard rabies is spread among bats by biting each other and as an 
aerosol (!) in cramped, poorly ventilated bat roosting areas.  
Squirrels are also known to suffer rabies in the wild and they are not 
much bigger than rats.

Anyway, this is straying from herps.  It's good to hear that mice and rats
are not a rabies risk.

Cheers,
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      David R. Koehler                         "His DNA is skewed!"
   drk@leland.stanford.edu                       -- Dr. Beverley Crusher  
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------



Organization: University Libraries - Technical Service, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 13:03:12 -0500 
From: David Stanley <ds7h+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: Help! Is my Ig Sick?

I had a problem with my Iguana, Nighta, about three weeks ago.  He began
to loose his appetite and eventually got too weak to eat.  I spent five
days tube feeding him--1 cc of water in the evening and 1 cc of powdered
food and vitamins in the evening--until he got strong enough to eat
again.  Although I did think that he got tired of having a tube put down
his throat and was happy to start eating again!  Keep a close watch on
the base of your iguana's tail because it's a good indication of whether
or not he's loosing too much weight.  Good luck

David
From: aaronw@as215-ws-15.ucsc.edu (Aaron M. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Questions Preparing for a Garter Snake
Date: 25 Jan 93 23:54:46 GMT
Organization: UCSC - Slug Club
NNTP-Posting-Host: as215-ws-15.ucsc.edu
In-reply-to: putz@parc.xerox.com's message of 25 Jan 93 18:38:39 GMT

A vet recomended using a cheap heating pad under the cage.  I 
bought one at the local drug store and keep it on low.  It keeps
the gravel nice and warm in one area of the cage.  This way, 
"Fuzzy" can choose to be warm or cold.  (She sometimes just
loves going under her cold waterdish).

P.S.  Does anyone know of a good place where I can find a 
male Florida King snake?

-Aaron Williams
aaronw@cats.ucsc.edu
From: tracer@carson.u.washington.edu (David P. Tracer)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Handling rats & Burmese
Date: 28 Jan 1993 21:36:40 GMT
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
NNTP-Posting-Host: carson.u.washington.edu

In article <C1Jxy6.2u0@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu> jgraham@bronze.ucs.indiana.edu (the End) writes:
>
>Your best bet is to switch her (big Burmese) to dead food. After a few years
>of that she will reduce her instinctive agresiveness that is associated with
>feeding.
>
>Nancy (10 ft./4 yrs) has always taken thawed rats. An additional advantage, and
>one that just didn't occur to me for a long time, is that she will also eat 
>regular old Tyson(TM) chicken parts. Cheap and VERY reliable food. When 
>asked, other readers will admit that their Burmese will eat all kinds of
>items (fish, chops, ect.).
>
>Keep that rotgut handy anyway :)
>

I agree with the part about switching to dead food, and I also feed my
Burmese chicken parts from time to time.  It is important to realize
however that even though thawed chicken parts are cheap and reliable, they
are far from nutritionally complete.  Burmese also derive a lot of
important nutrients from the internal organs of prey animals and even from
the contents of the prey animals stomachs.  So frozen bunnies are an even
better idea.

(Salmonella transmission's also a prob with thawed uncooked chicken).

-David

Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 16:20:40 EST
From: <ALA102@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: lizard tail wiggles

I'm posting this again because my post of 2 days ago was erased.  Whenever I sc
ratch my green amevia on the head or the neck he wiggles his tail.  Is he scare
d or just enjoying the scratch.  Any help or opinions will be greatly appreciat
ed!

                                              The Young Herpetologist
From: stevep@wrq.com (Steve Poole)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Surinam (?) iguana (was: Re: lighting Questions)
Date: 28 Jan 1993 06:01:57 GMT
Organization: Walker Richer & Quinn
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: 150.215.25.54

In article <C1JFwI.Mvv@mentor.cc.purdue.edu>, thompssp@expert.cc.purdue.edu (Steven P. Thompson) writes:
> 
> >Might this be "Surinam Iguana"?  I think I've heard of that, but I don't
> >know what makes some igs surinam-type.  Perhaps they're from Surinam?
> >
> >Can anyone shed any light on this, and while you're at it, what other
> >recognized types of igs are available?  How do you tell them apart?
> >
> >-k
>      I looked through some of my lists, and all I was able to find were
> Green Iguanas (up to 4.5 ft.!!), and Rhinocerous Iguanas. What about those
> Iguanas I have seen on T.V. that live by the ocean. Good swimmers, etc.?
> Are they available in the pet trade?

My green iguana is supposedly the Suriname subspecies. From what I've been
told they retain their bright green into adulthood, but Shep is only about
16 months old and 3 feet long, so we'll have to wait and see.

Some subspecies of green iguana reach six feet and greater, so you might
make that note in your reference material.

Marine iguanas, indigenous to the Galapagos Islands, are the ones you've
seen on TV. I've never heard of them being available; in fact, it wouldn't
surprise me if no animals may be legally removed from that region.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
- Internet: stevep@wrq.com  -  AOL: Spoole  -  INTEL 80x86: Just say NOP -
- "Nurse! Do let's pretend that I'm a hungry hyaena, and you're a bone!" -
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: ffn2@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (FREDRICK F NOECKER)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: FREE HERP NEWSLETTER\*\*\*\*\*\*\*\*\*\*\*\*\*\*\*\*\*\*\*\*\*\*\*\*\*\*\*\*\*\*\*\*\*\*
Date: 23 Jan 93 00:41:12 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

Hi,
  My name is Rick Noecker and a associate of mine, Chris Zimmer, publishes
  a herptology newsletter called the _Rep Amp_.  The _Rep Amp_ focuses on
  animals such as snakes, reptiles, amphibians, turtles and tortoises.  These
  articles that we write focus on how to properly choose, feed, care for and
  breed the already mentioned herps.

  Chris has been working with reptiles for over 10 years at his fathers pet
  store.  In this time he has dealt with many different species of heps and
  has learned how to deal with many herp problems firsthand.  I have worked
  for Chris for over 2 1/2 years now and have done quite a bit of research on
  the herps that I have dealt with.

  The articles that are written in the _Rep Amp_ are based on research and
  personal experience on the particular herp.  Anybody is welcome to write for
  the _Rep Amp_ that has moderate experience and that is willing to do good
  research using up to date references.  So if you are interested in writing
  please let my know by responding over the server.

  THE _REP AMP_ IS ABSOLUTELY FREE AND NON PROPHIT.  We make no prophits from
  the publication of the _Rep Amp_ and it is free to anybody that is
  interested in subscribing to it.

  If you wish to subscribe to the _Rep Amp_ please give me your postal
  address.  I am sorry but the _Rep Amp_ is not yet available on e-mail yet so
  please if you are interested give me your postal address.  No where is to
  far for us to mail it to you and we do so at no cost to you.

  If you have already subscribed to the _Rep Amp_ please don't give me your
  name and address again.  If you enjoy the _Rep Amp_ please tell your freinds
  and give me there names and addresses also.  Too much is never enough.

  Thank You,
    Rick Noecker
    215-758-0304

    P.S.  Your comments and questions are appreciated.
From: ruska@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Dave Ruska)
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 19:44:26 GMT
Subject: Re: New Iguana owner...
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp

In rec.pets.herp, mtaranto@sura.net (Michael Taranto) writes:

> Hi,
> 	I just got my first Iguana and I am looking for someone who
>  ...

>                                                       I tend to believe
> that not everything learned comes from a book....

Probably a fair statement, but don't let that you stop from reading some
books on igaunas. "The Green Iguana Manual" by Philippe de Vosjolie (sp?)
is a very good book on the care and maintenance of an iguana, and it won't
set you back much ($5 .. $7.50).

> 
> Michael Taranto
> 

Regards,
Dave         (daver@hpgrrd.gr.hp.com)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: mds5597@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Subject: Re: corn snake housing (and care?) wanted
Reply-To: mds5597@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 17:18:58 GMT

In article <119310037@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM>, ruska@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Dave Ruska) writes:
>In rec.pets.herp, aad@siemens.com (Anthony Datri) writes:
>
>> >     If you do decide to go with the wood shavings, make SURE they are pine
>> >and not cedar. Cedar is poisinous to herps!
>> 
>> Is Pine even safe?  We've all seen the warnings here against Pine-Sol -- is
>> pine wood safe?
>> -- 
>
>I've seen PINE shavings recommended in a least a few snake books, although
>I personally don't use them. Some species of snakes do need some kind of
>substate to hide in (such as a Kenya sand boa), and I've seen pine shavings
>used for that purpose occasionally.

	They can also be very messy to have around the house. As I found out
some weeks ago. I had went back to newspaper which works great.

                                                              
>The problem with Pine-Sol (and Lysol) has nothing to do with Pine. I 
>believe these cleaners have Petroleum based solvents which are dangerous
>to herps.
>

	I agreee with you....one of my instructors here at RIT said something
about that.

>Dave               (daver@hpgrrd.gr.hp.com)



                                               
                                                      Treky and Tabatha
							    N8VFZ

P.S.
----
Live long and prosper.                   

Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: thompssp@expert.cc.purdue.edu (Steven P. Thompson)
Subject: Snake Mites
Organization: Purdue University Computing Center
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 02:35:39 GMT


     I have 2 new Ball Pythons that have some sort of parasite.
     I thought that they were snake mites, and treated them as such. But, now
that I have read some more, I think that they were ticks.
     I would like to get in contact with someone that has dealt with these 
kinds of things before to see what they think. The story is rather long for
a general posting. If there is some interest I will post the results.
                            THANKS<

                                                     ~Steve

Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: RFEWSTER@SUVM.SYR.EDU
Subject: Re: Questions Preparing for a Garter Snake
Organization: Syracuse University
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 93 10:18:31 EST

I would say that it would be perfectly all right to use wood, providing that
it has been sealed correctly.  I have a wet terrarium that has been in use for
about 7 years, that is mostly made up of plywood. There is absolutly no rot,
and it still looks like new.  When you go to seal it, use marine polyurethane,
and it will be easy to clean, and water will have no effect on the finish of
the wood.  I would make sure that you have given the finish plenty of time to
finish drying before introducing any animals into it though.  I would be con-
servative and wait for 1 to 2 weeks, after all, you are better safe than sorry!
 
                                                Bob Fewster
From: bzandrew@amiganet.chi.il.us (Bill Zandrew)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Help!  Is my Ig Sick?
Date: 23 Jan 93 20:49:07 CST
Organization: Amiga Network Information Systems

In general my Lizzie looks o.k., but is quite listless.  This morning when I
went to handle him, he ran off his tree branch under his tree trunk.  When I
put my hand in to get him, he started darting all over the cage.  He has a
large cage, a great hot rock, I know about his diet and give him vitamins. 
He/she appears to be getting thin.  The only thing that I can think of that is
different is the light.  He runs around in the yard in the warm weather, but
can't do that in Chicago now.  I do have u/v bulbs and he basks under them o.k.
 When he is in the cage he is toasty warm.  He is about 3 feet nose to tail and
I guess about 3 years old.  He has some appetite, but usually eats the stuff
that's o.k. but not the best and ignores the rest.  His ribs are starting to
show and his tail seem thicker/healthier than the rest of his body.  Is this
normal for an IG in winter?  
        Any advice would be appreciated.
        thanks, Sharon
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: aad@siemens.com (Anthony A. Datri)
Subject: Handling rats & Burmese
Organization: Siemens Corporate Research, Princeton (Plainsboro), NJ, USA
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 22:33:55 GMT


Last Saturday was the first time I ever fed a rat, and I must admit that the
poor blighter was bigger than I expected.  I have to admit that I was nervous,
given the rep that rats have for being evil, baby-eating hellspawn.  Should I
treat them differently in any way than I treat mice?  I've already determined
that they need a quite stronger whack to be stunned than does a mouse, but
should I be worried that one will BiTe me when I'm grabbing or whacking it?

I learned a valuable lesson that day.  This was also the first time I've ever
fed a boid.  My Pine (rip) and Corn had always been quite mellow about food
until it hit the floor of their homes, so I had been lulled into a stupid sense
of carelessness.  That day I fed the Corn a mouse, then went over to the 6.5'
Burmese.  I pulled off the top of his tank and started whacking the rat.  Monty
decided to be much more agressive wrt his food than I was used to, and decided
to snack early.  Yes, my docile little boy lunged up out of the tank and bit my
elbow, then proceeded to wrap himself around my arm.  I left him alone for
several minutes, hoping that he'd let go.  He eventually did, but remained
coiled around my arm.  I was able to slowly and carefully remove him through
a combination of unwrapping him and pushing his coils off my hand.  Neither
was easy.  This was a 6.5' animal.  The next time you think that someone
coiled by an adult could just push the coils down off the feet, think again.

Lessons of the day:

o Don't smell like a rodent when feeding a Burmese
o Stun the food quite thoroughly before uncovering the animal, and either
  drop in the food through a slit, or do so from a distance.

-- 

======================================================================8--<
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: lrumsey@nyx.cs.du.edu (-Linda-)
Subject: Re: Garter Snakes
X-Disclaimer: Nyx is a public access Unix system run by the University
	of Denver for the Denver community.  The University has neither
	control over nor responsibility for the opinions of users.
Keywords: -musk...
Organization: Nyx, Public Access Unix at U. of Denver Math/CS dept.
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 93 04:15:25 GMT

In article <1993Jan20.022430.22449@leland.Stanford.EDU> drk@leland.Stanford.EDU (David Koehler) writes:
>
>A a couple of people on this group recently have mentioned keeping
>garter snakes as pets.  Is it true that they musk (release a foul-smelling
>substance) when handled?  Or is it only when they are frightened?
>They could be a rather unpleasant pet.  Has anyone heard of this?
>
I had a yellow-throated garter snake <purchased> but it wouldn't eat and
thus died... <typical of the species>

Early this Spring, I caught a Rocky Mountain garter snake in my Mom's back
yard and have had -extreme luck with this guy. He's growing very nice, has
shed 3 times and eats a goldfish every other day or so... I just put the
fish in the water and he goes after it. I handle him a lot and have never
encountered any sort of smell whatsoever. 

My question is this... I would like to put another snake of the same
variety in the tank <10 gal> and wonder at the results of them co
habitating. Being the same sex or opposite. My goal is not baby snakes,
but would just like another. Would the older guy -attack the younger?



--
            there is an awakening...

        and -all that remains is true...
                                                       -Jim Morrison-
Organization: City University of New York/ University Computer Center
Date: Wednesday, 27 Jan 1993 13:16:49 EST
From: <CBTCC@CUNYVM.BITNET>
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Corn Snake Bites
 <1993Jan26.222219.24531@cs.uoregon.edu>

My 5 1/2 foot corn has bitten me a couple of times (probably my fault).
Luckily, these weren't feeding strikes, just the "BACK OFF, JERK!" type.
To be honest- one hardly hurt, and the other I felt NOT AT ALL- and the latter
was the one that drew blood (from that little fleshy part of my hand, in
between the thumb & index finger).  Guess I was lucky.

Chris
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp