HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: dreamer@lhaven.UUmh.Ab.Ca (Lawrence "The Dreamer" Chen)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Food Waste Disposal Units
Distribution: world
Date: 10 Apr 92 07:38:11 MDT
Organization: Lunatic Haven BBS

Well, here's my first posting.

Recently, I just purchased my first home.

Well, the first thing that got me was that it didn't (and none of the other
housed I looked at) have a sink disposal.  I after living the last two years
with out one, I want to see about getting one now.

Anyways, my big question is what is the difference between a batch-feed and
a continuous-feed unit.

I'll also appreciate tips on selecting and installing.

Thanx,

--
                                                 __
 Lunatic Haven BBS:    _        _  _     _  _   :        _     FAX
 +1 403 526 6957  :   :_: :   ::_::_ :\::  :_   :   :_: :_ :\: +1 403 526 6957
                  :__ : : :/:/ : \:_ : ::_ :_   :__ : : :_ : :
 dreamer@lhaven.uumh.ab.ca "Just a Crazy Engineer with an Amiga and an HP48SX"
From: davidbu@loowit.wr.tek.com (David E. Buxton)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Plugged Toilet
Date: 13 Apr 92 19:01:27 GMT

Somebody asked what to do about a toilet that was not completely
flushing.  I sent email, but it went to the wrong person.  Not seeing
any help offered yet I guess I'll post something.

Several years ago I had a toilet that did a poor job of flushing.
My young son had dropped his lago house into the toilet and flushed it.
Tried snaking out the toilet.  Not much help.  Finally I bought a
wax ring for less than $1, drained the tank and toilet and removed
the toilet.  The lego assembly was still lodged in the waste pipe
this side of the 'U' trap.  The snake had evidently been sliding
right past it.  I cleaned off the old wax, put in the new wax ring
and soon had it all back together.  That was my first time removing
and replacing a toilet.  I'd say any home handy man can do it.  Was
actually quite reasy, as long as you have a reasonably good back.

Dave
From: jack@myamiga.mixcom.com (Jack Decker)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Rainbow Vacuum Cleaner
Date: 11 Apr 92 16:17:00 GMT
Article-I.D.: f8.1992Apr12.20281
Organization: Northern Bytes BBS - Sault Ste. Marie, MI U.S.A.

Just thought I'd mention that we got a used chrome-dome model Rainbow for only
$250 used at a local vacuum shop a few years ago.  It did not come with a power
beater head, but the man at the shop said that if we really wanted one, there
was a conversion kit that (if I recall correctly) was $75 installed that would
give you the power head capability (I guess the kit provides the power
connection for the beater head).

The moral is, if you are looking for a good used Rainbow, don't overlook the
used vacuum shops in your area.  This same shop also sells used Hoover uprights
in the $10-$15 dollar range to vacationers who need something to clean the
cottage and downstate folks who are bargain hunting... he lines 'em up on the
sidewalk in the summer and does a lot of business with passers-by... but the
owner seems to really enjoy tinkering with them and fixing them up.  I made his
day one day when I rescued a badly damaged (plastic) Rainbow from a curbside
trash pickup and gave it to him to use for parts!

This particular dealer is in Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan, and I don't think he
does mail order, but I'd bet that similar bargains are available in other parts
of the country if you look around.

BTW, the Rainbow is a GREAT machine... only problem we ever had was when the
power switch went bad (3-4 months after we got it) and the dealer we bought it
from fixed that for free!

Jack Decker                               | No, I don't own an Amiga; I just
Internet address: jack@myamiga.mixcom.com | get Internet mail via a gateway
Fidonet address:  1:154/8                 | system that runs on an Amiga.
From: rmrin@cbnewsk.cb.att.com (r.m.rickert)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Sump pump gets HOT
Date: 10 Apr 92 15:02:04 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: AT&T

In article <1992Apr3.105025.1175@falcon.aamrl.wpafb.af.mil> bkottmann@falcon.aamrl.wpafb.af.mil (Brett Kottmann) writes:
>
>	One of our sump pumps gets very hot.  Hot enough to steam the water and
>heat the surrounding concrete.  Obviously this isn't working correctly :), but
>what might the problem be?
>
>	Thanx for any info,
>
>Brett

It's clogged and not pumping much water.  Pull it out of the hole and clean it,
then do something to avoid having gunk grow in the sump.
-- 

Dick Rickert  AT&T Consumer Products Laboratory
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Which first - replacement windows or furnace?
From: gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 92 18:10:58 CDT
Organization: Garys' Home for Obsolete Computers

ah0r+@andrew.cmu.edu (Allyson Halpern) writes:

> Now that the warm weather is upon us, it is unfortunately time to start
> preparing for the next harsh winter. We have leaky old windows and a
> humongous old furnace - both need to be replaced but we can really only
> afford to replace one or the other right now. Some tell me to do the
> furnace first, others the windows. Any recommendations? Thanks! - Allyson

Replace the furnace first. You'll spend less on the heat you end
up losing, and it'll be more reliable than your old one. You can
do temporary covers on the worst windows (or install new weatherstrip
on them; realtively inexpensive) to further reduce their impact on
your bill. Of course, you're also putting less combustion products
in the atmosphere for a year, but considering how large the atmosphere
is, this impact won't be real noticable.

Gary Heston, at home....
gary@cdthq.uucp
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: sns@deimos.caltech.edu (Sam Southard Jr.)
Subject: Re: Bad, Bad Smoke Alarm... (more info)
Organization: Caltech Astronomy Department
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 20:15:47 GMT

In article <16488@ulysses.att.com>, smb@ulysses.att.com (Steven Bellovin) writes:
|> You can buy ``kitchen'' smoke detectors.  These have a ``shut up''
|> button -- for 15 minutes or so, they'll gently chirp if they still
|> detect smoke.  *Much* safer than yanking the battery or throwing
|> the breaker.

You can also get heat detectors and locate them away from the stove and oven.
That's what we have in our house - one heat detector in the utility room (right
by the kitchen, no door between them), one heat detector in the basement around
the furnace (but not near enough to set it off through normal operation), and
a smoke detector in the hallway (not right outside a bathroom door).

-- 

Sam Southard, Jr.
{sns@deimos.caltech.edu|{backbone}!cit-vax!deimos!sns}
From: drevik@utkvx2.utk.edu (Drevik, Steve)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Wall construction
Date: 16 Apr 92 13:45:00 GMT
Organization: University of Tennessee Computing Center
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <BMr67z.253@world.std.com>, edwards@world.std.com (Jonathan Edwards) writes...
>A builder I am talking to uses 2x4 studs in all walls.
>Many people have told me to use 2x6 in the exterior walls instead, giving
>R-19 instead of R-11 insulation.
>An architect I just interviewed recommends using 2x4 with 3/4" Thermax panels
>on the inside, behind the wallboard. He claims this provides R-24.
>Does anyone have any experience with this style of construction?
> 
>On another note, the same builder says that he normally doesn't use kiln-dried
>wood, and wants to charge me extra for it. Is this a shlock builder?

(who ARE these people?)

Steer clear of the second guy (unless the 'standard' house is real
inexpensive and the cost of an upgraded house is acceptable).  It's
not unreasonable to use "green" wood, but *I* would not!

-steve

> 
>Thank you for your support - JE.
>
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: thomson@hub.toronto.edu (Brian Thomson)
Subject: Re: Brick walk tips/advice RECEIVED!!
Organization: University of Toronto
Date: 14 Apr 92 16:28:44 GMT

In article <1992Apr13.191717.23021@cs.cmu.edu> moody@cs.cmu.edu writes:

>2) Sand (or, better yet, stone dust) is preferred to concrete as a bed for 
>the paving blocks.

I have heard that a couple of inches of lime on top of sand and gravel
makes a very good bed.  It gives some frost flexibility, and also
has the very nice side effect that weeds and grass etc. won't grow in it.
This is second (or maybe third!) hand information, though.
-- 
		    Brian Thomson,	    CSRI Univ. of Toronto
		    utcsri!uthub!thomson, thomson@hub.toronto.edu
From: swisher@cs.utexas.edu (Janet M. Swisher)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: What is Thermax?
Date: 15 Apr 1992 00:10:18 -0500
Organization: CS Dept, University of Texas at Austin
Distribution: na
NNTP-Posting-Host: boogie.cs.utexas.edu

In article <1992Apr14.163910.5304@phx.mcd.mot.com>
fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com (Fred Christiansen) writes:

>In a building-related magazine I came across a reference to Thermax.
>No explanation as to what it was.  The context was frame sheathing.

I don't know what it is in this context, but I have some long
underwear made of Thermax polyester.  It's the kind of stuff that's
supposed to wick moisture away from your skin into your wooly sweater
to keep you dry and warm.
From: mjohnson@stake.DaytonOH.NCR.COM (Marget Johnson)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: how to remove wall paper glue
Date: 9 Apr 92 16:52:26 GMT
Organization: Stakeholder Relations, NCR Corp in Dayton,OH

<1992Apr7.172538.23040@progress.com>
Reply-To: marget.johnson@stake.DaytonOH.NCR.COM (Marget Johnson)
Organization: Stakeholder Relations, NCR Corp in Dayton,OH

In article <1992Apr7.172538.23040@progress.com> matth@progress.COM (Matthew J.
Harper) writes:
>  I tried the usual methods:
>[other methods tried deleted]
>  4) FAST wallpaper remover: YAAAAAAAAAYY!!!!!!!!!!!
>  Everything but some of the glue, of course.  To get rid of this I put a
>mixture of the FAST and water in one bucket, and an old towel and hot water
>...................................
>You can sand the glue off, but that's a bigger hassle than the stripper is.
>
A great way to get those last little bits of dried glue/paper off of drywall
(haven't tried it on plaster) is to use drywall screen instead of sandpaper.
The stuff is easy to use, lasts forever, and really does do a better job than
sandpaper. It's cheaper, too, since it lasts forever (well, years, anyway).
.............................................................................
Marget Johnson
--
From: danmc@hpspdla.spd.HP.COM (Dan McGee)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Radio Tower in residential area
Date: 6 Apr 92 19:03:14 GMT
Article-I.D.: hpspdla.12040030
Organization: HP Stanford Park - Palo Alto, CA

My brother lives near a radio tower.  It screws up his VCR and that of
all of his neighbors.  He lives in Seattle and has had no luck working
with the owners of the tower.  This problem has been on the local news
in Seattle as an "investigative story".  Nothing has resulted from this.

If I where you, I'd fight it.

Dan
From: glenr@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com (Glen Ray)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 21:45:32 GMT
Subject: Re: Double-pane glass condensation problem
Organization: Hewlett Packard - Boise, ID
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house

   Welcome to the world of broken seals.
In my house, I had 6 windows do the same thing.
   Don't bother trying repair your existing glass
all you will accomplish, if you are very sucessful
is to have a clear window for about 1 day.
   The seal material is also a desicant, and once
a seal leaks there is no good way ( as per my experience )
to fix it.
   However all is not lost. All that is bad is the glass         
not the frame. I replaced all my own and saved quite 
a lot.
   TIPS.
1. Remove the frame from the glass and measure the glass
   length, width and thickness of the assembled unit, before
ordering the glass. Don't approximate. If you give the
glass company the wrong measurements, you will buy two
pieces instead of one.

2. Use lots of soap solution on the frame and rubber/plastic
   seal that wraps the edge of the glass when you put the
window back together. A 50/50 mix of water and dishsoap
seems to work pretty well.

3. If you have any smaller windows with the same problem
   it may be in your best intrest to do one of them first
just so you will have a better idea of what to expect with the
patio door.

4. Get help to move, assemble, disassemble, remove and reinstall
   the patio door. They can be very awkward.

5. You can use a rubber mallet to help remove and install the                      frame on the glass, but use lots of soap and don't get carried      
away with the hammer.

6. Consider letting the pros do it or at least deliver the glass.
   the glass is tempered so it will take a lot of abuse, but if you
break it, you wuold have been time and money ahead in just having it 
done.

                         Good Luck
                            Glen R
From: thomase@tekig5.pen.tek.com (Thomas Stan England)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Removing Fenceposts
Date: 6 Apr 92 22:52:01 GMT
Reply-To: thomase@tekig5.pen.tek.com
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Beaverton,  OR.

Mike,
One method you might try to remove the posts involves using an older style
car jack, ( the ones with the post and rachet mechanism that rides up it)
Set the jack on some heavy boards or blocks to support it and attach a
chain looped around the post a couple of times to the racheting head of
the jack. It saved me from buying the come-along I would rarely use.
From: bwood@diva.Berkeley.EDU (Blake Philip Wood)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Summary of replies: Removing condensation from double-pane window
Date: 14 Apr 92 15:00:07 GMT
Article-I.D.: agate.ses1nINNe0d
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
NNTP-Posting-Host: diva.berkeley.edu

I received very few replies to my request for ideas on how to remove
condensation from inside double-pane windows, but thanks to those who
did reply.

The suggestions boiled down to:

1.  Replace the whole window.
2.  Take the window to someone to be dismantled and dried.
3.  Try dismantling and drying the window myself.

Nothing surprising there.  Unfortunately, I had asked the question
hoping to avoid all three of these options.  However, I came up with
my own idea: drill small (1/8 - 1/4") holes through the inside glass
in two opposite corners.  Rig up a small fan and hose to blow dry air
(not hard to come by here in New Mexico) through the window to
evaporate condensation.  Stuff some new dessicant through the bottom
hole.  Seal the holes.  Reseal the outside of the window to prevent
rain from leaking between the panes.  I figure that the condensation
will probably come back eventually, but it's ordinarily pretty dry
here, so I hope this will last a season, at least.  It should be easy
to redo if necessary.  My only concern is that there may be waterspots
inside the window that will leave it looking nearly as bad.  I'll post
the results when I've finished.

-- 
                 Blake P. Wood - bpw@fjwsys.lanl.gov  (505) 665-6524
                 Group P-1, MS-E526, LANL, Los Alamos, NM  87545
From: ada@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (ada.p.sabol)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Need Vertical Blinds
Summary: Vertical Blind Info
Date: 6 Apr 92 17:36:10 GMT
Organization: AT&T

In article <30071@cbmvax.commodore.com>, brian@cbmvax.commodore.com (Brian Fennimore) writes:
> In article <1992Apr4.002355.6446@intelhf.hf.intel.com> sjohnso@hfglobe.intel.com (Steven Johnson) writes:
> >Hi folks!
> >
> >I need to purchase vertical blinds for a 16 foot window/sliding-door.  
> >Can anybody know or recommend where I can get a good price for these?
> >Are the companies in the back of the 'home' magazines any good?
> >
> >Thanks in advance!
> >
> >Steven

I have ordered several types of blinds and shades from companies that I
found in the back of the home type magazines.  Specifically,  I have
ordered from the National Blind Factory and American Blind and Wallpaper
factory.  I was very satisfied with the promptness in delivery as well
as the quality of the shades.  I have ordered mini-blinds, vericals and
pleated shades.  They carry name brand stuff as well as their own brands.
I have gone with their own brands because of the big cost savings.

Ada
From: ctopp@cup.portal.com (Carol F Topp)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Bathroom redo - Fixture costs vs Quality
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 92 21:35:51 PDT
Organization: The Portal System (TM)

Hello-

I have just found this group. I hope my topic is appropriate.

At the current stage of our house work, my husband wants to redo
the bathroom. A while ago we were looking at new sinks. The price
range for small pedistool sinks is very large. If we redo the bath,
we would need a tub, toilet and sink.

I have not priced tubs, but I expect them to be expensive. What
should I look for. What is the difference between cheaper and more
expensive fixtures. Since I am in the San Francisco Bay Area, I will be
looking for a low-flush toilet. Any wisdom out there on these?

I will follow this group so post or E-mail is fine.
Carol
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: kevins@osf.org (Kevin Sullivan)
Subject: Re: urethane spray foam insulation
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 14:02:44 GMT

In article <1992Apr8.234948.4123@phx.mcd.mot.com>, fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com (Fred Christiansen) writes:
|> Anybody chosen to have sprayed-in urethane foam insulation installed
|> in their exterior walls instead of fiberglass batts?
|> 
|> It seems to me that one never really achieves the nominal R-rating
|> (approx R3/inch) with batts because of gaps, compression, dust infiltration,
|> etc.  However, with sprayed-in foam, well done, you could get uniform
|> R7/inch (true?).

	We have just applied insulation to our addition. I to am somewhat 
down on the fiberglass batts for all of the same reasons. We used a wet
sprayed cellulose application that claims a nominal 21.5 R-value for 2x6 16 OC.
The appealing aspect to me was it's expansion properties. It is applied moist 
and expands into cracks and crevases. When it dries it has a fairly dense 
somewhat rigid feel to it. It looks grey and has a soft feel. This combined
with an excellent vapor barrier seem to hold down drafts around the 
studs. Judging from the high winds we had this weekend. No sheetrock yet. 

The application process was very interesting. It was blown in not so much 
sprayed. It created quite a mess. The hose used has ~2" diameter mouth
the applicator sprays from the top down with quite a bit not adhering 
to the walls. Then the residue is shoveled up and the studs are scraped 
to get the insulation flat wrt the face of the studs. The residue can 
then be dryed and used again. In our case we will use the residue 
in the attic. The residue does not adhere to the wall well on the second application. 

The cost is about 30% more than  R-19 fiberglass batts. The ceiling will
also be the same Only we anticipate a nominal 44 R-value. This cannot be 
applied until after the sheetrock is hung. (guess what I am doing 
this weekend.) 

|> 
|> How do they compare cost-wise?  What's the payback?  Any negatives, such as
|> curing or persistent odor, irritants, allergies?
|> 



|> I've been thinking 2x6 walls with R-19 batts plus 1" white styrofoam (R3.6?)
|> with stucco over ext sheathing.  Might be able to cut out some of the up-front
|> costs by going to 2x4 walls with 3" sprayed foam and stucco directly over
|> the sheathing (+ felt paper).
|> 


Kevin Sullivan
From: marks@ssdevo.enet.dec.com (Randy Marks)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Brick walk tips/advice needed
Date: 13 Apr 92 14:45:59 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Digital Equipment Corp. - Colorado Springs


In article <1992Apr13.114015.34491@cs.cmu.edu>, moody@e4.ius.cs.cmu.edu (James Moody) writes...
>I want to replace our concrete front walk with a brick walkway.  I don't
>want to use interlocking paving stone, rather I want to use bricks I 
>already have, and I plan to mortar them together.  After thinking about
>this for awhile it seems that the best way to build a good walk would be
>to put in a concrete base first, then mount the bricks on top.
This is contrary to what I've heard from brick dealers and neighbors who
have done this.  I'm looking into doing a walkway with brick, so I've spent
some time looking into it.

My understanding is that you should put the bricks on a bed of sand.
Then sweep sand in the cracks when you are all done.  Some say you should
rent a vibrating tamper to settle everything when you are all done.
Definitely, do not use mortar, unless you enjoy repairing it.

Sunset publishes a book on walkways.  Gives step-by-step instructions.
You can also get the same info. from a dealer that sells interlocking
stones.

>I know that the interlocking paving stone systems (e.g., Omnistone) can 
>make a very neat walkway, but to me that pattern just screams "the 80's"
>like a lava-lamp screams "the 60's".
The interlocking stones are said to be more resistant to shifting.
The source of this info is a mfgr. of interlocking stone.  
(Grain of salt, and all that)

	Randy Marks
(UUCP)	                {decvax,ucbvax,allegra}!decwrl!ssdevo.enet!marks
(INTERNET)              marks@ssdevo.enet.dec.com
(domain-based INTERNET) marks%ssdevo.enet@decwrl.dec.com
..........................................................................
	"No man's life, liberty, or property is safe
	while the legislature is in session."
..........................................................................
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,rec.pets.cats
From: buckland@ucs.ubc.ca (Tony Buckland)
Subject: Re: Alarm systems and cats
Organization: University of B.C. Computing Services
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1992 16:05:17 GMT

In article <1992Apr9.175427.7742@elroy.jpl.nasa.gov> pjs@euclid.jpl.nasa.gov writes:
>In article <1992Apr9.131309.13790@qiclab.scn.rain.com>, al@qiclab.scn.rain.com (Alan Peterman) writes:
>> The secret - and it sounds like your installer was not very experienced - 
>> is to mount the lens upside down.  That way the beam does NOT descend
>> to the floor.  We have ours mounted in a long corrridor at waist height,
>> and even at 45 feet away the beam will pick up people walking, but not
>> the cat on the floor. 
>Works until, of course, you're hit by a cat burglar :-)

 It can also be defeated by a human who figures it out before being
 detected, and crawls at floor level.  Better to confine your cats
 to an area not covered by a motion detector whenever you have the
 detector on.  It doesn't have to be a cage; try the bathroom - 
 ensuring that the bathroom is multi-species-capable.
From: rav@cbnewsi.cb.att.com (reinaldo.a.valenzuela)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Improvement Value Adds?
Keywords: do-it-yourself
Date: 10 Apr 92 18:44:19 GMT
Article-I.D.: cbnewsi.1992Apr10.184419.15267
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T

The original poster is correct. Most
improvement projects have a "pay-back"
of less than 100%.

Fixer-uppers, on the other hand, make money
because they start with a house in BAD shape
and bring it up to standards. Another way
of saying this is: a house in a given neighborhood
is not likely to sell for much more than 
other nearby houses, but if neglected, can 
be had for much less.

Reinaldo
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: concrete slab over sprinkler lines