HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: chucko@kronos.arc.nasa.gov (Chuck Fry)
Subject: Re: Increasing power?
Organization: Recom Technologies, NASA Ames Research Center, Moffett Field, CA
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 18:33:21 GMT

In article <1992Jul24.133816.20347@bnr.ca> Peon w/o Email priv (Eric Youngblood) writes:
>Does anyone have any ideas on how to increase the power produced by a normally
>aspirated V-8 engine?

I'm no expert, but I'll give it a shot.

>What I've got is a 77 TA w/ the Pontiac 400 cid engine. ...
[details deleted for brevity]

All of the above sounds good for a "mild" hop-up, damn near no-hassle
street motor.  This motor should produce OK low end and dynamite
midrange torque, and probably poop out around 5500 RPM or so.

So how does it feel?  Does it bog when the secondaries kick in, or is
it one smooth rush of power from start to finish?  Is there still
power left when the trans shifts?

>The TH350 is driven by the stock 1200-1800 stall torque converter. The governor
>is adjusted to provide WOT shifts at 5000 rpm. The power is
>transmitted to the wheels through a GM-posi 10-bolt 3.07 differential.

For a car of that size, the gear ratio is probably too low
(numerically).  Something around a 3.50:1 would probably give the
launches you want without screwing up fuel mileage too much.

The converter may be a bit tight for the warmed-up motor.  A higher
stall speed might give a better launch at the expense of mileage.

>Traction is provided by Goodyear ST P235R15 radials. Track times
>indicate an extreemly sluggish 60 foot times in the 2 second range,
>0-60mph is acheived in ~6.1 & 1/4 mile at ~14.5 secs.

Do you have problems getting traction?  These tires aren't known for
their ability to grip the 'strip.  If you get serious about drag
racing, get serious drag tires.  You may need other traction remedies
as well.

>I would like to push the 0-60 time down into the high five second range and
>hopefully reduce the 1/4 mile time into the low 14's is this possible or am
>I about at the maximum for a "street" configuration.

You could build up this combination a bunch and still drive it on the
street.  But as is, it should provide lots of street fun and reliable
racing performance.

Your 650 CFM carb is probably plenty; from your description, you
probably aren't even using all the airflow it offers.  I'd try to tune
on the rest of the drivetrain.

 -- Chuck Fry  Chucko@charon.arc.nasa.gov
    Advice worth what you paid for it, or your bits back!!
From: borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Help, Brake Lights Not Working.
Date: 28 Jul 92 17:58:31 GMT
Organization: Hewlett Packard Company, Spokane, Wa.

In rec.autos.tech, anandjr@hubcap.clemson.edu (Rajesh Anandjiwala) writes:

>In my 1985, Olds '98 the brake light does not work all the time. The
>major symptoms are as below:
>
>(1) Out of three (two on left and right tails and one in the centre on
>the back board) the center one is always working. Two on tails used to
>work sometimes, but these days they do not work). I have put all four
>new bulbs.
>
>(2) When I switch-on the headlight or park-light all four tail bulbs
>are working all right, however, with foot brake pedal depressed the
>second filament of the bulbs (responsible for brake light) does not
>light up.
>
>(3) The contacts checked indicate the current is flowing all-right.

I assume that on this car, the same lights are used for turn signals and
for brakes.  If this is so, then the turn signal switch is used to switch
the function between brake lights and turn signal lights.  Thus, most
likely, the turn signal switch is defective.


Donald Borowski    WA6OMI    Hewlett-Packard, Spokane Division
"Angels are able to fly because they take themselves so lightly."
                                       -G.K. Chesterton
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: chucko@kronos.arc.nasa.gov (Chuck Fry)
Subject: Re: using different Oil than reccomened
Organization: Recom Technologies, NASA Ames Research Center, Moffett Field, CA
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 14:44:37 GMT

In article <182821@pyramid.pyramid.com> aahsan@pyramid.COM (Agha Ahsan) writes:
>	What are the ramifications of using thicker oil than
>	that reccomended by manufacturer, especially for
>	turbo engines. ex: use 20w50 in place of 10w30.

If the engine is relatively new and in good shape, don't bother.

Heavier weight oil has some crucial disadvantages.  It doesn't get
distributed as quickly on cold starts, and it increases friction
compared to a lighter weight oil.  This means the turbo won't spin up
as quickly, resulting in more turbo lag.  The combination also means
more wear on the engine's internal parts.

It might be justified if you live in a very warm climate (e.g.
Phoenix), or if the car routinely sees extremely hard use (e.g. road
racing).  Or if the engine is so worn that it won't hold enough oil
pressure with the recommended oil.

A better bet, especially with turbos, is synthetic oil.  No matter
what weight you use, synthetic oil will stand up to turbo heat better
than petroleum based oil.  Yes, it's expensive, but so are replacement
turbos.  It's your choice.

 -- Chuck Fry  Chucko@charon.arc.nasa.gov
From: pwu@amalfi.ai.mit.edu (Peng Wu)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Timing belt replacement in a Sentra
Date: 23 Jul 92 10:12:15 GMT
In-reply-to: mack@isl.Stanford.EDU's message of 22 Jul 92 19:16:44 GMT

Timing belt off may or may not cause engine damage depending on the design of
the engine.  See the following old message for reference:

=======
From: tgl@slee03.srl.ford.com (Tom Leone)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Timing belts in general was Re: Tercel doesn't need timing-belt replacement?!
Date: 21 May 92 16:23:04 GMT
Organization: Ford Motor Company Scientific Research Labs, Dearborn, MI

lester@naomi.NoSubdomain.NoDomain (Les Bartel) writes:
: Neither the owners manual nor the shop manual (Chilton) recommends timing
: belt replacement at a specific interval for my 2.0 liter Ford Ranger.
: It would give peace of mind to know what would happen if the belt broke.

All Ford-built engines except the old 1.6L Escort are
free-wheeling (no damage possible from broken timing belt).
Note that the newer, 1.9L Escorts are free-wheeling.

As for your Ranger, I thought they all had the 2.3L engine
(which is definately free-wheeling).

Also, note that the Mazda-built 2.0L diesel and 2.2L gas engines
(in some Ford-badged vehicles) are NOT freewheeling.  My source
for all this?  The August 1991 issue of _Motor_ magazine, page
22.

Tom Leone <tgl@slee01.srl.ford.com>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: aluminum wheels
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Distribution: rec
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 92 07:27:41 GMT

mike.knox@canrem.com ("mike knox") writes:
: Hi:
:  
: I want to try and preserve the newly repaired rims as long as possible,
:  
Mike,
I had some old mag rims (20 years old, hi-magnesium) that were looking pretty
ratty.  I bead-blasted them at a local shop which rents blasting-cabinet
time (cheap!), and then coated them with a compound made for just that,
by a company called Wurth (umlauts over the U), I believe from Austria.  It
has held up quite well for over a year, although I don't use those rims in
the winter (or the car they are on, either).  I believe this would work
for polished rims as well, if that's the case, except for the bead-blasting
part.  

My advice would be to have GM strip the junk off your rims, take them back
'bare', and use the Wurth clear sealant spray to seal it off.  Brake dust
just wipes off, and it seems to stand up very well to high temperatures
(this is on my rally car...it gets HOT)

I know a distributor of Wurth products in the Milwaukee area, I can give you
his number if you need it.  (I'm not doing a public commercial, though,
'cause I think that's tacky.)  E-mail me at the address below, as the one
in my header will BOUNCE.

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - you get what you pay for; you pay (and pay, and pay) for what you get.
hinz@picard.med.ge.com


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: (Eric Youngblood)
Subject: Re: Increasing power?
Reply-To: Peon w/o Email priv (Eric Youngblood)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Richardson, Tx
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 19:07:58 GMT

In article <1992Jul27.170616.21276@bnr.ca>, (Eric Youngblood) writes:
|> In article <1992Jul24.183321.25371@kronos.arc.nasa.gov>, chucko@kronos.arc.nasa.gov (Chuck Fry) writes:
|> |> In article <1992Jul24.133816.20347@bnr.ca> Peon w/o Email priv (Eric Youngblood) writes:
|> |> >Does anyone have any ideas on how to increase the power produced by a normally
|> |> >aspirated V-8 engine?
|> 
|> [some discussion deleted]
|> 
|> |> 
|> |> All of the above sounds good for a "mild" hop-up, damn near no-hassle
|> |> street motor.  This motor should produce OK low end and dynamite
|> |> midrange torque, and probably poop out around 5500 RPM or so.
|> 
|> I setup the governor to shift at ~5000 rpm based on the piston speed for the 
|> Pont 400 engine. The stroke is 3.75" which works out to a piston speed around
|> 2750 ft/sec at 5000 rpm. I have been told that with metals and bearings of this
           ^^^

|> era it can handle up to 3500 ft/sec (works out to about 5600 rpm). Would I
                                   ^^^


Oops, really meant to say ft/min.

Ericy
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk (Codesmiths)
Subject: Re: What does GT mean in all these sports models ?
Cc: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Reply-To: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 02:04:00 +0000


> TITLE: What does GT mean in all these sports models ?

Nothing !

It used to be applied to Ferraris and the like, meaning
"Gran Turismo", Italian for Grand Touring. Basically something
you could leap into from your Milan office on a Friday afternoon,
and hit the Cote D'Azur in a few hours.

When "GT" started appearing on mass production cars, you'll have
noticed that Ferrari quietly dropped it...
From: hale@btree.uucp (Bob Hale)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Question about GM HEI ignition - what does the capacitor/condenser do?
Date: 22 Jul 92 23:13:49 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Brooktree Corporation

In article <1992Jul14.215412.15810@leland.Stanford.EDU> eap@leland.Stanford.EDU (Eric Perozziello) writes:
>In article <1992Jul14.191524.15656@gvl.unisys.com> rossi@gvlf9-q.gvl.unisys.com (Pete Rossi) writes:
>>What function does the capacitor/condenser inside the GM HEI distributor (1977)
                                                           ^^^
>>perform.   Is it there as part of the function of the electronics module or
>>is it simply there for interference/noise suppression?
>
>ok, I'll try for this one- corrections/additions welcome. 
>The primary ignition circuit is a resonant one. it has parasitic

Nope.  The capacitor is on the battery line.

>resistance (who really cares, everyhting does  :^) a BIG inductor
>(the ignition coil) and a capacitor that wt we use to tune it with. 
>If the condensor is eliminated, the circuit wil no longer be 
>balanced, and an arc will form (cause air breaks down) when the 
>points open (the energy from the inductor HAS to go somewhere).

No points in an HEI.

>The arc will pit the points and degrade their contact resistance
>eventually.
>
>>
>>Do they ever go bad?  Mine is 15 years old.  The car runs fine, but 
>>I do get some ignition/spark noise on the radio from time to time...

Sometimes these do become intermittent with age but I rather suspect
that the radio noise problem is related to either bad plug wires or
to bad ground bonding somewhere in the vehicle.

Bob Hale                                      ...!ucsd!btree!hale
...!btree!hale@ucsd.edu                       ...!ucsd!btree!hale@uunet.uu.net
From: shank@buphyk.bu.edu (Jim Shank)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: BMW 325e Service Indicator
Date: 24 Jul 92 17:56:06 GMT
Reply-To: shank@cbsgi1.bu.edu
Organization: Physics Dept., Boston Univ.

In article <1992Jul24.133240.3974@trantor.harris-atd.com>, segallis@su1bc.uucp (greg segallis) writes:

|> Does anyone out there know how to reset the INSPECTION light properly?
|> How many pushes of the switch should it take?  Is there anything else
|> that can cause the light to come on?

The difference between an OIL reset and an INSPECTION reset is just in
the length of time the 2 pins are shorted (really just grounding 1 pin).
The INSPECTION reset takes a few seconds longer than the OIL reset.
Your symptoms seem like the classic ones for a bad NiCad battery in the
service indicator board. The dealer will want to replace the whole board
for $300.00 or so. There was another article in the Roundel (the
magazine of the BMW Car Club of America, for you non-members) in the
past year which described how to replace the NiCad batteries. You have
to remove the instrument cluster and unsolder the old batteries--it's
not that hard to do. 


-- 
Jim Shank                shank@cbsgi1.bu.edu
Physics Dept.               Phone: Office:617-353-6028 
Boston Univ.                       Lab:   617-353-5088
590 Commonwealth Ave.              Clean Room: 3-6049
Boston, MA, 02215                  Fax:  617-353-6047 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: yuechu@bank.ecn.purdue.edu (Yuechu Ma)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Help stalling Honda
Date: 27 Jul 92 17:25:07 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network


 I have a 82 Honda Civic AT, with 120 k mile
Basically, the car runs fine except at  cold-starting   
when it stalled and die on the 
acceleration on first minute of driving. 
It only happened once and will be fine
until next start. I have checked all plugs, wire,
vacuum holes, and only found that EGR valve was clogged
and rotor in distributor was pitted. I replaced
both of them, but stalling still persists. I guess
one of thermal sensors on the cylinder block that control EGR or thermal
valves on thermostat housing was bad.
Is there any Honda owner out there who has the same
experience, I would like to hear from you.
Thank you in advance.



 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: Carbon Buildup in engines ( valves ? ).....
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 15:00:56 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 I was doing the water-down-the-throat thing last night to a neighbor's 
car last night (hell, I wasn't going to experiment on mine) and it did
seem to help slightly (he has a more serious problem, oil all over a
couple of spark plugs, which I don't feel like trying to fix for free)
but I did notice something I think ought to be brought up.

 I disassembled his carb (which was part of the plan) to clean it and
compensate for the EGR being shall we say compromised. When I did I found
that much of the water had managed to find its way into various wells,
pockets and tubes, presumably via the vent holes and air tubes. This is
liable to be a nuisance later. So if you are doing this steam cleaning thing
it might be a good idea to administer it so that all the water goes down the 
throats - like a siphon hose, wash bottle or something. The fan blast makes
pouring it iffy. Lots of carbs have vent holes or even air shafts with 
suction, which will slurp up any spilled water. 
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ghg@en.ecn.purdue.edu (George Goble)
Subject: Re: AC compressor always engaged
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 92 14:18:06 GMT

In article <31160114@hpspkla.spk.hp.com> borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski) writes:
>Air conditioner compressors are controlled by electric clutch.  Just pull
>the wire off the compressor and see if it stops running.  If it does, you
>have an electrical problem.  If is does not, then the electric clutch is
>stuck in the engaged position, and need to be repaired or replaced.
>
>In normal operation, the compressor will cycle off and on, controlled by
>the interior air temperature themostat and also (I believe) a pressure
>switch.

Some systems use a continuous running type of compressor, such as
the "V-5" on GM cars.  The V-5 is a "variable displacement" compressor.
When the suction pressure drops to 28 PSIG (as the car cools down), the
compressor reduces its stroke (capacity), as to hold the suction line
at 28 PSIG.  Other systems use cont run compressor use "POA" or other
valves to throttle the suction line to cause capacity control.
These cont run systems save wear on the compressor clutch.
--ghg
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sks@cs.scarolina.edu (Shawn Sremaniak)
Subject: Re: What does GT mean in all these sports models ?
Organization: USC  Department of Computer Science
Date: 29 Jul 92 18:54:28 GMT

As far as I know, and this was true in Europe, GT stands for
"Grand Tourisme" (sp) coming from the italian language. The exact
meaning/translation eluded me ... :(

S.

--
============================================================================
Shawn SreMANIAK                                 sks@usceast.cs.scarolina.edu
          (no need for further comments,- my name says it all)
============================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: JLEHTIMAKI@finabo.abo.fi (Janne Lehtim{ki PAP)
Subject: RE. Hydraulic Suspension
Organization: Abo Akademi University, Finland
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1992 09:08:43 GMT
X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.20


Citroen has got hydraulic-pneumatic suspension for ages (I think since
1955 or something like that), It is reliable and often considered as the most
confortable suspension ever made, luxury car manufacturers like Rolls-Royce
and Mercedez--Benz has put it in ther top models (RR Camargue and MB 600
Pullman).

Height difference between the lowest and highes position is something like
25 cm (10 inches).The hydraulic pump is belt driven at least in Citroen
CX-modes, but not (what i know) in the older DS, ID and D-Super models.
To install it in another car you have to do quite a lot of hydraulic "wiring"
but thats about it. All components, including the part that comes instead
of springs and shocks are quite small and therefore not impossible to put in
another car.The newest Citroen XM models have an very complicated
active hydro-pneumatic suspension with a lot of sensors and computers and
therefore quite impossible to put in another car.

The system has 4 or 5 different levels for the car, and the suspension works
in all other levels than the lowest and the highest ones.

You will find the hydro-pneumatic suspension as standars in following models
of Citroen:Traction Avant (Antique car, rear wheels only). DS, ID, D-Super
(made in 60's and early 70's).GS (70's).CX (70' and 80').SM (early 70', joint-
venture with Maserati, hard to find even in europe).BX (still on the market).
And the XM with the complicated version (still on the market).

Probably only the following models are ever imported to the US: DS, ID, CX,
SM and XM 

	I hope this helps,
                          Janne

*******************************************************************************
* 			     Janne S. Lehtimaki                               *
*                            M.Sc. (Chem. Eng.)                               *
* Abo Akademi University              phone : int. +358 21 65*4311  ext. 4625 *
* Department of Paper Chemistry       fax   : int. +358 21 516757             *
* Porthaninkatu 3                     telex : 62 301 aabib sf                 *
* SF-20500 TURKU - FINLAND            e-mail: jlehtimaki@abo.fi (Internet)    *
*******************************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: Copper air lines and secondary tanks
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 92 09:43:51 GMT

gould@theory.TC.Cornell.EDU (EWD) writes:

(stuff that anyone following this thread has read many times deleted)
: 
: A secondary tank would insure maximum whallop for your impact wrench it
: it were close to the load.  You can calculate your cycle times for various
: loads, I believe each drop of ~15lbs yeilds one volume of the tank.  Likewise
: you can calculate the delivery rate of your compressor by timing the
: system as it pumps through the pressure interval you're interested in.
: So now you can judge how big a secondary tank you'd want for a particular
: tool and a particular cycle time.
: 
I think I'll just over-capacity it, and install in-line shutoff valves to 
decrease system volume as needed.

: You want to keep the primary tank small enough so, for instance,
: you will have air for the tires by the time you've finished checking the
: oil.  

My primary tank is 80 gallons, the secondary around 30(?), so shutoff valves
are definately a MUST, especially if I go to 2" PVC or something with a large
volume.

: 
:    Eliot

Wow, I'm very pleased at the great respones and ideas everyone is coming up
with, this is Usenet at its best!  Thanks everyone!

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
Pherrets are Phun!! 
SAAB - you get what you pay for; you pay (and pay, and pay) for what you get.
hinz@picard.med.ge.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Carbon Buildup in engines ( valves ? ).....
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 25 Jul 92 20:31:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * Jacksonville AR USA * 501-985-0059


-> mix of denatured alcohol and water right into the intake method of
-> removing carbon. It worked. the engine shuddered

 Last year the head gasket on my D/SP Capri blew while my brother was
going down the back straight.  Big gush of steam out the tailpipe.  Got
it back home, pulled the head, and there was a couple years' worth of
carbon coating in the first three cylinders.  #4 was squeaky clean; the
piston was shiny on top, the valves were shiny, and the chamber was
clean.

 It cleaned the cylinder a-verra-nahss, but I wouldn't recommend that
method for normal servicing...
                                                                                                                              
From: Steve.Kaess@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Steve Kaess)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Used car recommendations sought
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 15:35:49 -0500

 > Hi all-
 >
 > I am interested in buying a used car (86 or newer, not
 > too many miles)
 > for $3500 or less.  I was thinking of some of the imports
 > (Sentra,
 > Mazda 323, Corolla, Golf, etc).  It should basically be
 > an "econo-box"
 > with A/C, front wheel drive maybe, and 4 doors preferably.
 >
 >
 > Any recommendations for reliable such models? Any to definitely
Most are prety good--imho the best values are the golf/jetta, the 
mopar colt in it various dodge, plymouth and mitsu names, the 323,and 
a escort with the new engine and fi--I think post 89 for that 
stuff...toyo and honda are too damm high, and if you want to look 
at another domestic check out the chev cavilear...they did get it 
into a good car...just buy a post 88 or so model



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech