HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: treitel@gracie.IntelliCorp.COM (Richard Treitel)
Subject: Re: Look Release Adjustment
Date: 30 Sep 92 00:23:57 GMT
Organization: preferably none

In article <rpcfod-280992161356@rpcfod.worldbank.org>, rpcfod@worldbank.org (Robert Patt-Corner) writes:
|> Perhaps I just need to adjust the cleat so that I have less rotational
|> adjustment on the *heel out* direction.  But is that good for knees?

I did that and have no knee problems yet ... also, on the side where I tend to
take my foot out most often, I use a black cleat!  Bizarre, but works for me.

		- Richard
From: ehouse@Apple.COM (Eric House)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Broken rear dropout
Date: 6 Oct 92 16:43:16 GMT
Organization: Apple Computer Inc., Cupertino, CA

In article <1992Oct5.173129.2765@genghis.borland.com> alexande@genghis.borland.com (Mark Alexander) writes:
>
>The right rear dropout (Campy) on my 18-year old frame broke last week.
>It cracked just where the dropout enters the chainstay, so the part
>that I think of as the solder tab (don't know the technical term) is
>still brazed solidly in the chainstay.  The bike has been in nearly
>continual use over its lifetime, but has not been abused (no touring,
>and only a little racing early in its life).
>
>Is a broken dropout a rare occurrence?  I have heard of failed braze
>joints, but not this.

This is precisely what happened to my 10 year, 32,000 mile old Univega
frame some months back: the forged Suntour Campy-copy right rear dropout
broke about half an inch away from where it entered the stays.  For what
it's worth, Univega correctly recognized this to be a warranty failure
and gave me the closest frame they currently make to the one that broke.
-- 
****************************************************************************
Eric House			"My employer doesn't share its opinions with
"Quayle in '94"		   	 me, so I can share only mine with you"
From: philg@zurich.ai.mit.edu (Philip Greenspun)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Power Grips any good?
Date: 26 Sep 92 23:28:18 GMT
Reply-To: philg@martigny.ai.mit.edu
Distribution: usa
Organization: M.I.T. Artificial Intelligence Lab.
In-reply-to: ncherry@cbnewsg.cb.att.com's message of 25 Sep 92 15:03:03 GMT


My LL Bean Pathfinder (really a $625 Raleigh Technium glued aluminum
bike) came with PowerGrips and I love them.  In fact, I couldn't even
begin to get over some rough spots on my brother's Specialized the
other weekend because I kept getting kicked off the pedals.

I've had mixed success getting out of them in crashes.  I'd say that 9
out of 10 times I'm out without knowing how or why.  However, in two
over-the-handlerbars incidents, I've pulled the bike down to the
ground with me.  Since I weigh 200 lbs, the bike gets slammed down
pretty hard and the torque on my ankle hasn't been fun.

Philip Greenspun
MIT Department of EECS
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tomk@netcom.com (Thomas H. Kunich)
Subject: Re: how to patch a tube--cheap
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1992 20:01:59 GMT

In article <1992Oct3.011311.163@panix.com> paul@panix.com (Paul Gatker) writes:
>
> I'm planning to build a custom made inner tube kit and need suggestions for
>a source of container that will cost me between $0.00 -- $0.05. BTW, $0.05 is
>the max I'm willing to spend on the container so no elitist suggestions please.

Well, I guess that rules out the Tiffany Egg I was going to suggest.

> The container has to seal well so the rubber cement I put in it doesn't dry
>out like the glue in every patch kit I bought in the last 2 years.

What's wrong with the patch kits you can buy in any bicycle shop for
$2.00? After you use up the present kit you can use the box indefinitely
by buying new patches and the little glue capsules that have one flat's
worth of glue in them. Since every capsule is opened fresh they never dry
up.
From: ctillier@phoenix.Princeton.EDU (Clemens Emmanuel Tillier)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Broken rear dropout
Date: 5 Oct 92 19:28:36 GMT
Organization: Princeton University
Originator: news@nimaster


 (Mark Alexander) writes:
>
>The right rear dropout (Campy) on my 18-year old frame broke last week.
>It cracked just where the dropout enters the chainstay, so the part
>that I think of as the solder tab (don't know the technical term) is
>still brazed solidly in the chainstay.  The bike has been in nearly
>continual use over its lifetime, but has not been abused (no touring,
>and only a little racing early in its life).
>
>Is a broken dropout a rare occurrence?  I have heard of failed braze
>joints, but not this.

-Funny, this just happened to me last weekend. My Trek 930 snapped in the
exact same place. It's less than two years old, but it has seen a lot. I got
it fixed (had a new dropout brazed on). I'd never heard of this happening
before, so it's strange that I should hear of it after breaking my own...
Good luck getting it fixed.

Clem
From: r.g.olsen@att.com (Ron Olsen)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Gearing question
Date: 6 Oct 92 23:11:27 GMT
Reply-To: r.g.olsen@att.com
Organization: AT&T Bell Labs, Denver CO

I ride in the Colorado mountains and Utah canyon country
with 48-34-24 chainrings and a 14-32 Hyperglide cassette.
The 24x32 low gear is really great for steep hills;
the 34T middle chainring lets me ride more rolling singletrack
in the middle ring than a 38T or 36T middle ring would.

Your first step should be to get a 24T inner ring; then
upgrade to a 13-30 or 14-32 cassette.  Changing the middle ring
is less important.

> I use a 2.1 Smoke in the back and a 1.95 Crossroads in the front both
> inflated at about 50 psi.

The Smoke is a great rear tire; I've got one on my bike too.
If you're doing any off-pavement riding on loose terrain,
reduce the tire pressure to 35 lbs. or so to get better climbing
traction.  The rule of thumb for loose terrain,
sand, snow: reduce the tire pressure
as much as you can and still avoid pinch flats;
some light riders may be able to go as low as 25-30 psi.

> --learn to climb better? the uphill portions I have trouble with tend to
> have either rocks or exposed tree roots with a pretty steep grade. I
> usually spin out the backwheel at these trail sections.

Some climbing tips: slide forward until the tip of the saddle is
hitting you in the butt.  Crouch over the bars in the "jockey position".
On each pedal stroke, pull back on the bars toward your ribs to
increase rear tire traction (THIS IS THEY KEY).  Bar-ends really
help a lot with this.  Lift the front wheel over obstacles when
you can.

	Ron Olsen
	Boulder, Colorado
	r.g.olsen@att.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: davevh@microsoft.com (Dave Van Horn)
Subject: Re: Cateye Micro average speed algorithm?
Date: 05 Oct 92 06:36:52 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corporation

>Sequenences such as the following are quite common:
>15.3 15.7 15.5 15.9 15.8 etc. 
> 
>I too would like to know what is going on.
 
I've always just assumed that they got their math chips out of 
boxes of CrackerJacks.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: djconnel@leland.Stanford.EDU (Daniel Connelly)
Subject: Re: Helmets - keeping a cool head
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 92 23:58:12 GMT

In article <12800@cis.rand.org> Rodger_Madison@rand.ORG (Rodger Madison) writes:
>I suspect the reason the original post suggested a
>matte black helment was the this is a more
>efficient radiator of heat than white (a closer
>approximation to an ideal black body).  Ignoring
>heat absorbed from sunlight this would be a good
>solution.  Heat generated by absorbed sunlight may
>or may not be significant in relation to heat
>generated from inside the helmet.  I suppose one
>or more of the helmet makers may have done studies
>on this topic.  I suspect it is not highly
>significant since some helmets have black stripe
>and many are colored so they will absorb in a
>least part of the spectrum.
>
>     Rodger
 

Just as heat can be generated either by absorption of solar radiation
or by metabolic processes in the body, there are several modes of heat
emission.  Electromagnetic radiation of heat is enhanced by having a
black helmet.  However, direct heat transfer to the atmosphere via
diffusion and convection is not.  To what degree the color of the
helmet determines head temperature will be affected by what fraction
of the heat is generated and dissipated electromagnetically.  In any case
even if the surface were a perfect radiator the heat would still need
to get from the head to the surface of the helmet and along the way would
encounter resistance.

Anyway being black aids the approach to electromagnetic thermal
equilibrium and the effective temperature of sunlight is quite a bit
higher than that of the air; if one side of the earth always faced the
sun the weather there would not be to anyone's liking.

Dan



-- 
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: anlee@quasar (Anson Lee)
Subject: Rock Shox Vs. Manitou 2s
Organization: MPR Teltech Ltd.
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 92 16:06:03 GMT


Please excuse this posting if it's appeared before,
I don't think it made it the first time I posted...

Hi.

I've waited long enough to for a pair of suspension forks for my
mountain bike.  The '92 year top choices for me were the Rock
Shox MAG 20s and the Answer Manitou forks.  According to MBA,
the Rock Shox had the Manitous beat in weight and absorption of
big hits.  The Manitous, however excelled in the stutter bump
and torsional rigidity category.  This year, Rock Shox has 
introduced the MAG 21s, which boasted better adjustability and
more reliabe seals.  I thought the choice was made, until
I saw an ad for the new 2.87 lb Manitou 2s.  I read that one way
to improve the performance of the '91 Manitous was to drill an
air hole in the bottom of the fork leg, Answer did not recommend 
this to avoid water or mud getting into the legs, however the new
forks have a "venting system" built in.

Has anyone ridden or know anything else about these new forks?

Thanks in advance.
Anson 

anlee@mprgate.mpr.ca
From: tomk@netcom.com (Thomas H. Kunich)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: caged vs. loose bearings
Keywords: headset, bottom bracket
Date: 6 Oct 92 18:39:22 GMT
Article-I.D.: netcom.1992Oct6.183922.20979
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)

In article <1992Oct6.040751.25849@leland.Stanford.EDU> sjlt@leland.Stanford.EDU (Sean Lev-Tov) writes:
>The other day in the library I was reading a bicycle repair book
>about overhauling the headset (my mountain bike needs its headset
>and bottom bracket overhauled now).  The book  said that when
>overhauling the headset, replace caged bearings with loose ones
>so you get 2 more in there.  I'm wondering if it really is a good
>idea and if it really makes a difference.  Also, the book didn`t
>mention this with respect to the bottom bracket.  Is it a good 
>idea for the bottom bracket too, or not?  Thanks in advance.
>
It's nice that you can get another ball in each bearing when
replacing cages. But a more interesting thing is that Campagnolo
balls are $.16 apiece or $3.52 for the set vs. about $15 for the
caged set.

And if you know how to install loose bearings it is no more difficult.
_If_ you have a headset (or bottom bracket) come apart on the road and
you have caged bearings they don't scatter all over and leave you walking.
This seems to be the only advantage of caged bearings.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: praetzel@marconi.uwaterloo.ca (Eric Praetzel)
Subject: Hub Generator/Motor
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 21:07:31 GMT

How is this for an idea:
  One of the profs here has an old English hub generator.  It turns out that
by updating the magnets alone a 50 * increase in the magnetic field (voltage
or torque) could be achieved.  He desires to simplifify the design so that
it could be cliped onto a set of spokes.  Hopefully we can get to work on it
in a few months.  This should mean that a 50W motor or generator is possible.
It may also be possible to use it as a brake for a trainer setup.  Does anyone
have experiences with the old units?  Anything that would help to improve the
design.
  - Eric
From: jlacoss@isi.edu (Jeff LaCoss)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Overheating brake pads
Date: 6 Oct 92 17:28:31 GMT
Reply-To: jlacoss@paddington.isi.edu (Jeff LaCoss)
Organization: USC-Information Sciences Institute

In article <1992Sep29.224631.11624@nmsu.edu> aviechec@dante.nmsu.edu (Alex Viechec) writes:
>Is this possible?  What happens if you do this, and how much braking would
>it take?

 I've SEEN a set of pads burn (flames) at the bottom of a long
descent. It was a cheap bike and a long time ago, but I saw it happen.

 Pads have been manufactured with fins on the back of the holder.
 Heh heh.
 Rubber and plastic are not known as good heat-transfer mediums. The
brake working surfaces get hot, and the rim gets hot, but the fins
won't do diddly unless there is a lot of metal filling the pads to
carry heat away from the working surface. If the fill metal isn't
soft, rims will eat it. There aren't a lot of common soft metals that
conduct heat markedly better than rubber, especially over the small
areas we're talking.

	Jeff
From: ahsu@akira.anatomy.upenn.edu (Andrew Hsu)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Specialized Allez Pro...
Date: 2 Oct 92 15:54:21 GMT
Organization: University of Pennsylvania

Just got the new issue of Bicycling Magazine and I read with great
interest about the new Allez Pro road bike.

Now I got my girlfriend to spend about $580 to get a Bridgestone RB-2,
which, although it has relatively good Ishiwata frame, has 400LX
components.   Now Specialized is selling this 105 equiped bike with
Mavic Open 4CD wheels (with 14 gauge wheelsmith spokes to boot), all
for $550 list (which means it'll probably be less at the stores).

In my jaded old age, I'm certain that Specialized must be cutting
corners somewhere or else everyone would be selling 105 equipped bikes
for $550.  Any clues or is this bike everything that Specialized
claims it is?  What sort of frame quality is the Allez Pro since that
seems like the only place where someone could cut corners since the
bike is all 105.  

Just curious,

--> Andrew Hsu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: dahls@fhydra.dnet.unit.no (Joern Yngve Dahl-Stamnes)
Subject: Re: Hyperglide sprocket replacement
Reply-To: dahls@fhydra.dnet.unit.no (Joern Yngve Dahl-Stamnes)
Organization: University of Trondheim, NORWAY
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 92 10:05:11 EDT

Thus spoke the keyboard of webel@guvax.acc.georgetown.edu:
>In article <1992Sep27.031420.10955@dartvax.dartmouth.edu>, Gen.M.Kanai@dartmouth.edu (Gen M. Kanai) writes:
>> In article <ahlwqA2HBh104h@contempt.brisnet.org.au>
>> rob@contempt.brisnet.org.au (Rob Amos) writes:
>> 
>>> due to Killer Chain
>>> Suck Crunchings) but am still on original rear cluster.  I have covered
>>> approx 3,500 km on it.
>>> 
>>> What's the opinion on replacing it?  Should I buy a new one? 
>> 
>> 
>> What?!?!?!!?  Shimano and many others reccomend you change both
>> freewheel and chain every year!  3500 km!  Crisp shifts?  No way with a
>> freewheel with 3500 kms on it!
>
>
>what is the big deal about 3500 km, that can be well under a year's 
>worth of riding.  I would probably replace the chain at that point, 
>but a freewheel should hold up longer than 3500km, unless you mountain 
>bikers really do thrash equipment that bad.  I'm a roadie, so if I am 
>of base I am sorry.  Replacing the chain frequently is more important 
>because a worn chain will wear out freewheels and chainrings faster, 
>or at least that is what I am told.

I have asked myself the same guestion as Rob Amos have. To try to find an
answer to that I've dismounted the rear cluster on my commuting bike (got
about 3500km on it now) and compared each ring with the ring from an
unused cluster. I can hardly see any sign of wear exept at the side of
each teeth (where the chain slip when I change gear). I have doen the same
comparence on my road bike (old Shimano 6 seed 600) and my mountain bike
(Shimano XT HG-70 cluster) with the same result.

So the best thing is to keep a spear unused cluster and use it to compare
the one you are using. Each time you want to change the chain, compare
your cluster with the unused one and then decide if you want to change it
too or not. If you change the cluster, keep the old on for comparence.

+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+--+-+-+-+-+-+-+
* I went back to my mother,           * Joern Yngve Dahl-Stamnes           *
* I said, "I'm crazy ma, help me!"    * University of Trondheim            *
* She said, "I know how it feels son, * The Norwegian Institute of Tech.   *
* 'cause it runs in the family."      * Division of Physical Electronics   *
*       - The Who, Quadrophenia       * e-mail: dahls@fhydra.dnet.unit.no  *
+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+--+-+-+-+-+-+-+
From: jpitts@norfolk.vak12ed.edu (Joseph R. Pitts)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Recumbents, Anyone?
Date: 5 Oct 92 18:40:10 GMT
Organization: Virginia's Public Education Network (Norfolk)

dobrien@sybase.com  writes:
> Does anyone in this here conference ride (or know anything about)
> recumbent bicycles? You know, the long weird laid-back bikes with the
> lawn-chair seats.
> I'm looking at buying a new bike in a few months (OK, OK, next May, when
> the ice melts in Toronto), and after trying another guy's home-made
> chopper-style bike, I'm in lust. Anyone know anything about them? Know a
> friend who knows anything about them?
> I've got literature from a bunch of manufacturers, but I'm really looking
> for real-life experiences and advice (about the bike, that is).
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> Dave O'Brien (dobrien@sybase.com)
  ....only thing i've seen, beside the bikes has been a bumper
sticker......"FRIENDS DON'T LET FRIENDS RIDE RECUMBENTS." i can
live with that!!!

					JOE PITTS

					OUT THERE!!
From: caseb@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Suspension forks and front-end geometry
Date: 30 Sep 92 19:24:40 EST

How significant is the effect of a suspension fork 
on the front-end geometry of a bike that originally had a 
rigid fork?  Is the steering noticeably slower? Which 
brands have the least effect?

Brian Case 
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: sml@yarra-glen.aaii.oz.au (Steven Law)
Subject: Lantern Battery Life
Organization: Australian Artificial Intelligence Institute
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 08:41:45 GMT

I'm doing a 24 hour randonnee next weekend. It's the Opperman All Day Trial
named after Sir Hubert, Oz's greatest long distance cyclist.

Teams of 3 to 5 machines nominate a route of at least 360km.
I did 380km last year on a road bike. This year a team of 5 of us are doing
365km on mountain bikes with about half on dirt roads, just
for an extra challenge. I've also been minimising my training for
extra challenge :-)

Now, my question is about lights. I have a Cateye HL-500 fitted with a halogen
globe and I intend to supplement it with a Union headlight with 6V 3W globe.
If I use a 6V lantern battery (the type used in Dolphin torches) does anyone
have any idea how long it will last? In other words, what is the AmpereHour
rating of these batteries?

BTW, I have all the bits for this, so I don't intend getting any other sort of
system.

Steve Law
From: Gen.M.Kanai@dartmouth.edu (Gen M. Kanai)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Hyperglide sprocket replacement
Date: 27 Sep 92 03:14:20 GMT
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH
X-Posted-From: InterNews1.0a5@newshost.dartmouth.edu

In article <ahlwqA2HBh104h@contempt.brisnet.org.au>
rob@contempt.brisnet.org.au (Rob Amos) writes:

> due to Killer Chain
> Suck Crunchings) but am still on original rear cluster.  I have covered
> approx 3,500 km on it.
> 
> What's the opinion on replacing it?  Should I buy a new one? 


What?!?!?!!?  Shimano and many others reccomend you change both
freewheel and chain every year!  3500 km!  Crisp shifts?  No way with a
freewheel with 3500 kms on it!
From: gustilo@POBOX.UPENN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Gearing question
Date: 5 Oct 1992 12:10:40 -0500
Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu

greetings,

thanks to all that have replied to my previous questions to this group.

today's question:

My mountain bike came from the store with the following gearing:

48-38-28 chainwheels and a 13-26 cassette. The crankarms are 175mm long.
The drivetrain is a Shimano HG series.

I use a 2.1 Smoke in the back and a 1.95 Crossroads in the front both
inflated at about 50 psi.

I find myself walking a lot when I am riding the trails and was wondering
what the most cost effective way of changing the gearing to allow me to
climb the portions of the trail that I have to walk at present.

--changing the inner chainwheel to a 24? would there be a problem with the
front derailleur dropping from 38 --> 24?

--changing the last two cogs of my present cassette from 23,26 to 24,28 or
just getting a new 13-30 or 14-32 cassette?

--learn to climb better? the uphill portions I have trouble with tend to
have either rocks or exposed tree roots with a pretty steep grade. I
usually spin out the backwheel at these trail sections.

thanks in advance

Standard Disclaimer: 
    I am not responsible for comments that I make after 3:00 a.m. or after
5 cups of coffee, whichever comes first.
From: tfb@aisb.ed.ac.uk (Tim Bradshaw)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Shims on cranks?
Date: 27 Sep 92 22:20:49 GMT
Organization: Not

The bottom bracket on my bike has died a death, or at least the
spindle & bearings have.  I have had a hard time getting a new axle
the same length -- it seems to be intermediate between 2- & 3-ring
cranksets -- the vanilla 3-ring Shimano spindles are definitely too
long.  (I hate it when you can't get bits for 4-yr old bikes.)

I need the thing to ride, so rather than hunt further I bought a
2-ring (sealed, shimano) BB.  This kind-of works but it's marginal --
the chain line's OK, but the granny ring clears the frame by only a
couple of mm, which worries me, especially since I avoided tightening
it too hard...

So I probably need a new spindle or perhaps a 2-ring crankset.  In
the meantime I thought of making up a thin shim to go around the taper
to see if I could get it to sit a little further out.  But I'm worried
that it will either cause the whole thing to work loose all the time
or perhaps have some other nasty effect I haven't thought of.

Does anyone have any opinions on this / has anyone tried it?

Thanks

--tim
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech