From: david@postman.gr.osf.org (David George)
Subject: Alpine Trails
Organization: OSF RI Grenoble
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 13:14:48 GMT

Reproduced from the series "Dynamite Trails" without permission :

			FORT BILDUNG

		(c) Das Mountain Bike Magazine 10/92
		    Achim Zahn

[word play: means 'further education' but also 'Fort education' if English
 is used. - David]

		Miitary roads over Lac du Mont Cenis

	The forts over Lake Mt Cenis, once a testament to madness, are
	nowadays desirable places to visit.  In the world wars they were
	slaughter houses for patriotism, now they see a new species of
	helmet wearer.


	After a tiring ascent bikers are rewarded with an unbelievable
	panorama and super downhills on twisty gravel tracks.


For one day this summer the peace at Lac Mont Cenis was shattered.  Thousands
of camper vans and cars twisted and turned up the mountain.  Snack bars were
perched on both sides of the road.  Tents were pitched on every conceivable
patch of ground, colourful advertising flags fluttered in the breeze, music
and commericials blared from loudspeakers.  French, Italians and holiday makers
waited shoulder to shoulder for the heroes of the Tour de France.  The street
party atmosphere reached its high point as Indurain and Co. stormed by.  After
the last racer the tents were taken down, and the Caravan moved on.  The usual
silence returned.

The fact that the event took place in a former battle zone went unnoticed in
the heat of sporting moment.  This wonderful piece of nature, with blue
lake and green meadows, with grass hills and cliffs, overshadowed by glacial
mountains barely registered in the minds of the spectators.  The SS25 route
that swings up the southern ramp of the Col du Mont Cenis from Susa was not,
after all, a sightseeing tour for them.

Mountains biker's have it better.  From Susa they can choose the former
Military trail below the Mun Avanza refuge to Bard Cenisio and further on
to Fort Variselle by Lac du Mont Cenis.  Right from the start one has a
good 'bike' feeling.  The trail, like others of its kind, is not maintained
and is quite bad at the end. but on the bumpy gravel one gets a really good
mood for what still waits above.  If you've climbed out of the mist of the
Susa valley your heart won't only be pounding from the effort: the mountain
panorama with their snow capped peaks, which you have no hint of below, is
indescribeable.


BASE CAMP IN OLD BARRACKS

Bikers who are equiped with stove, tent and sleeping bags can find many places
to make camp at the southern end of the Lake.  Wild camping in France is almost
a national sport and therefore allowed.  Real bikers can also bivouwak in
the old forts and barracks.  Splendid sunrise and sets are guaranteed.  Those
who prefer a roof over their heads and a few people around them can snuggle
themselves down in the Refuge du Petit Mont Cenis.  This is reachable by one
of the Italian military trails that leads to the 'little brother' of the
Col du Mont Cenis.

The French have long recognised the worth of this mountain area for its
recreational potential.  The valley at the edge of the north slope to the Col
is full with Camp sites, Pensions and hotels offering refuge  in every price
class.  The best bet for Bikers are the Gites d'Etape.  These are simply
accomodation for cyclists, wanderers or horse riders who are on the road.

The circuit of Lac Mont Cenis suggests itself as a first tour.  Largely because
it won't tire you too much.  The lowland biker first has to acclimatise
himself.  The trails on the Italien/French border lie between 2000 and 3000 m.
A strenuous spell at this height, without taking care about the thin air can
lead to breathlessness, dizzy spells and coordination problems.  Not to be
reccommended for the fast downhill stretches !

However the ciruit of the lake is not only to be reccommended for taking 
the rarified mountain air but also to give an overview of the area.  Without
much climbing the path wends its way around the lakeside.  The short detour
up to the Petit Col Mt. Cenis gives wonderful views over the glacial
Ambin-Massif and into the Arc valley.  Marmottes gamble about the fields
and eat to lay down their neccesary winter fat.  The Lake water glistens
deep blue in the sun, half way round the lake sits Fort Variselle.

The imposing stone fortress is a reminder that it wasn't always so peaceful
in the mountains and on the Cenis pass as today.  Due to persistent conflicts
with Italy the French decided to systematically fortify their border at the
turn of the century.  Alone on Mt Cenis the unfriendly neighbours built 8 forts,
three barracks and uncountable defensive positions.

Hannibal knew the strategic worth of these alpine passes and so did that
Corsican warrior Napoleon.  After his successful Italien campaign in 1810 he
built the first road over the Col.  In 1874 a railway line with 12km tunnel
was built.

TRAILS OVER ICE AND ROCK

Today the border lies a good bit further south into former Italian territory,
the railway is gone and the battles are history.

The warriors of today come on two wheels and have other ideas.  Like for
example the group of French riders that were having a pick-nick in Fort
Variselle.  Over a lunch of cheese, tomatos and red wine they argued over
the number of hairpins they'd passed on their descent from Mt Malamot.
The ochre yellow dust coating their chains said it all.  It didn't matter
who was right, whether 35 or 40 turns, the trail to the almost 3000m high
Mt Malamot and the barracks was enough to get anyone going.  It isn't really
that steep but the stone blocks and broken surface in the upper stretches
require upmost coordination.  Sometimes you think you've strayed onto a dried
out riverbed.  Often, even in high summer, you will still find winter snow
just under the fort in the saddle.

The left over snow is treacherous.  Mornings it's as hard as glass, in the
course of the day it softens but under the slush you can often lock your
wheels on ice.  Like little Matterhorns the summits of the Vanoise range rise
into the blue sky, deep below, in between smooth polished rocks Lac Blanc
shimmers, still further down Lac Mont Cenis and Fort Variselle.

From the roof of the NCO's building in the fort you get a view over the whole
tour area.  The north side of Mt Malamot, a convenient defensive position for
Fort Pattacreuse, opposite the recconaissance post on the Beccia pass
and westwards over Col du Mt. Cenis the remains of Ft. Turra.  Hard to believe
that roads lead up to these high points.  Always moderate grades, the trails
overcome all natural obsticals, rockfalls, ditches and scree.  That's
unlimited pleasure for born in the saddle bike pioneers.  He who struggles
up to the summits is always rewarded, even when it's on the path that leads to
the Beccia pass.  Blocked in places so that the only answer is to carry.
The incredible view and the following down hill repay everything.

Geschichte (Ganse) haut-nah

(Recent History/Goosepimples)

The eye wanders further from the Col over the Lake down to the Fort de Ronce.
Beneath this impressive round building the houses of Plan des Fontainettes
reflect the sunlight.  Here there's a small museum about the Flora and Fauna
and History of the Col.  In the "Musee de la Fortification" there's a cold
documentation of the madness of the alpine militarisation.  If you would
prefer to see the 'history' bike up to the Forts Turra and Pattacreuse.
They offer the adventurous a hair raising time.  Equiped with a torch one can
explore for hours the tunnels which are dug deep into the cliff to reach
defensive positions.  In the underground labarynth there's miles of pitch
black and cold tunnels.  Over stone steps and rough hewn rock you stumble on.
In some corners you can still find eternal snow, blown into this 'deep freeze'
by the winter wind.  The steps and water droplets echo many times around the
tunnels.

Outside in daylight again you feel lightheaded, until a shrill whistle brings
you around.  No need to panic, just a Marmot who's giving a starting signal
for the downhill...








translation (and errors) David George
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.misc