HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Opinions on various Table Saws
Date: 15 Dec 92 06:09:49 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <1992Dec10.150654.8207@hubcap.clemson.edu> hubcap@hubcap.clemson.edu (System Janitor) writes:

>A Canadian company, Excalibur I believe, makes a saw that looks good
>in the literature they sent me. The fence they make gets top ratings
>in fence shootouts in magazines like Fine Woodworking. Could some of you
>who know comment on this saw?

Excalibur doesn't make table saws, unless they've very suddenly
gotten into it.  What you're probably seeing is a Delta Unisaw
(or other mid to high range Delta) wearing the Excalibur fence for
photographic purposes.  At shows, their fence and blade guards
are mounted on Deltas.

They do make extremely good scroll saws tho - some of which are
worth almost as much as a Unisaw.

I think General is the only Canadian company making table saws.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
From: bradshaw@taney.uscghq.uscg.mil
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Clock and music box movements
Date: 20 Dec 92 19:16:33 EST
Organization: United States Coast Guard


Does anyone know of a company that sells wind up clock and/or music box
movements?  I know about Clockit, but they deal mostly in quarts(ugh!)
movements.

Thanks in advance,

Edward Bradshaw         bradshaw@taney.uscghq.uscg.mil
Bowie, MD
From: asket@acad2.alaska.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: mail order wood complaints
Date: 17 Dec 92 00:03:19 GMT
Article-I.D.: acad2.1992Dec16.200319.1
Organization: University of Alaska


     I ordered four board feet of the infamous Brazilian Bloodwood from
Berea Hardwoods in Ohio almost six weeks ago.  Paid $55 total for the 
wood and shipping.  They cashed my check five weeks ago.  I haven't
seen hide nor hair (nor bark nor sapwood nor grain of dark red sawdust)
in my mailbox yet.  They say they sent it...
You may have gotten junk exotic wood, but at least you got SOMETHING that
has a vague resemblance to wood.
               Karl
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: lillie@anchor.comm.mot.com (Ross Lillie)
Subject: Re: Piano kit
Reply-To: lillie@comm.mot.com
Organization: Motorola LMP Systems Research, Schaumburg, IL
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 17:10:18 GMT

A piano kit?  As suggested, watch the want adds.  Now a Harpsichord... that's a
different story, what with the elimination of 700lbs+ of cast iron :-).  Good
period plans of harpsichords are available, although I can't remember the source.
I seem to remember adds in appearing in Scientific American, now and then.


--
Ross J. Lillie
LMP Sector Research
Motorola, Inc.
1301 E. Algonguin Rd.  Rm.2240
Schaumburg, Illinois  60196

Email:  lillie@comm.mot.com
From: bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Using Plunge Router in Router Table
Date: 18 Dec 92 19:10:10 GMT
Article-I.D.: adobe.1992Dec18.191010.22585
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Distribution: na
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated

G. Paul Houtz writes
> pauls@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Paul Stafford) writes:
> >  The Bosch has both the lever locking arm, and nuts on a threaded rod
> >  to lock the router at any depth. A little inconvenient to adjust while
> >  it's in the table.
> 
>    I use the Bosch 1615EVS in my tablesaw extension.
> 
>    I know what you mean about the nuts, however, mine came with a 
>    2.5" diameter knob that fits over the nuts.  It works real nice
>    under the table, though it is still a bit tedious to set the height
>    long distances this way.  it is GREAT for micro adjusting bit 
>    height though.

The Bosch routers have a spring-loaded depth lever. To adjust the depth,
then, you have to use one hold to hold the lever open while the other
hand turns the knob. Have either of you investigated removing the 
spring from the depth locking lever so that it would stay in the open
position, making depth adjustment a one-handed operation?

Has anyone on the net done this with the Bosch or PC plungers?

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: micki@netcom.com (Michelle Stone)
Subject: Cabinet saws... what are they?
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 18:52:11 GMT

What is the main difference between your garden variety 
table saw and a cabinet saw?

Michelle

-- 
micki@netcom.com

By the way.  I find myself to be a recent addition to the 
unemployment statistic.  I am a software manager.  If  you know
of an opportunity, please let me know!

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: kopca@mksol.dseg.ti.com (David J Kopca)
Subject: Walker-Turner Jointer Blade Install
Keywords: Walker-Turner Jointer-Blades
Organization: Texas Instruments
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 22:27:27 GMT



Please be kind, this is my first posting.

I just purchased a used Walker-Turner "6 jointer (its about 40
years old).  I took the jointer to Porter Cable for a tune-up;
however, they declined to work on it without a parts
diagram/description.

I am now trying to replace various parts.  So far, I have been able to
replace all of the parts with mostly Delta jointer parts.  I
brought a belt, Delta blades ($40), Delta screws that are used on
blade clamps ($1.50 per), and a Delta wrench to go with the screws
($8).

Question 1:
     Does anyone have a good (accurate) method for installing the
     blades without purchasing the $58 Delta magnetic device?

Question 2:
     I brought the jointer for $225.  The motor is in good working
     condition.  Was it a good deal?

Delta and Porter Cable have been nickel and dime-ing (and
dollaring) me to death.  I was hoping for a less expensive way to
accurately install the blades.

Any help on will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Kopca@mksol.dseg.ti.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: davidb@hpmcaa.mcm.hp.com.mcm.hp.com (David Burton)
Subject: Re: Using Plunge Router in Router Table
Organization: HP Cardiology Business Unit - McMinnville, OR
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL7]
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 19:53:20 GMT

G. Paul Houtz (gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com) wrote:
: pauls@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Paul Stafford) writes:
: > I am using my Bosch 3 hp in an extension table of my table saw. no
: > real problems, except it's sure heavy to lift in and out. I mounted the 
: > router on a 3/8" plexiglass 8x13", set into a rabbeted hole in the table.
: >
: >  The Bosch has both the lever locking arm, and nuts on a threaded rod
: >  to lock the router at any depth. A little inconvenient to adjust while
: >  it's in the table.
: 
:    I use the Bosch 1615EVS in my tablesaw extension.
: 
:    I know what you mean about the nuts, however, mine came with a 
:    2.5" diameter knob that fits over the nuts.  It works real nice
:    under the table, though it is still a bit tedious to set the height
:    long distances this way.  it is GREAT for micro adjusting bit 
:    height though.
: 
:    I have seen an actual crank handle that fits over the nut, too, I think
:    in Woodworker's Supply or some such.  I want to get one as this would
:    take the tedium out of raising and lowering the stop nuts over long
:    distances


	Someone earlier felt the 3 hp Bosch didn't have fast enough speed
        for smaller bits.  How do you feel about it.

        Also I've wondered if the Bosch non-removable handles made it more
        of a problem for table mounting than for instance the Hitachi.
        What do you think?



	David Burton
	Hewlett Packard

     .
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: exubak@exu.ericsson.se (No Name Requied)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: re: Jointer vs Planer - Thanks
Date: 11 Dec 92 21:27:18 GMT
Reply-To: exubak@exu.ericsson.se
Organization: Ericsson Network Systems, Inc.
X-Disclaimer: This article was posted by a user at Ericsson.
              Any opinions expressed are strictly those of the
              user and not necessarily those of Ericsson.


I wish to thank everyone that  anwered my call for help.
The unit of choice seems to be a Delta 6"jointer - stationary unit
with the Delta 6" jointer portable unit a second place winner.

Now for the really dumb news.  My husband has been reading  the
news and saw my request.  He has thanked me very nicely and 
said Don't Buy anything.   So now I'll have to think of something
else.  I can't believe that this happened.  

Tim, it wasn't very nice of you to spoil my surprise.  You may just
get a lump of Coal.

Anyway thanks again everyone, if nothing else you have also given
Tim some good pointers.


Merry Christmas from Dallas, Texas

                         Becky
From: coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM (Chip Coffin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Walker-Turner Jointer Blade Install
Date: 19 Dec 1992 03:09:18 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems
Distribution: world
Reply-To: coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: surfin


> Please be kind, this is my first posting.

Kind is tough.  Sometimes the truth hurts.

I too recently purchased an old walker-turner jointer.

I had the fence and tables re-ground at a machine shop,
I replaced the bearings on the head (requires a special
puller) and replaced the blades.  I do need new blade clamps.
I'll have to order them from delta.

WRT your first question.

I own a magna-set.  You can get it for 41.50 from WWer's supply.
I don't know how anybody can set blades without one.  A bar magnet
would work well also, perhaps.

WRT your second question.

I paid 95 for mine, I paid 130 for the re-grinding, 26 for the bearings
and about 45 for the blades.  Was it a good deal?

answer:  I don't really give a s**t, and If I were you, I wouldn't either.  Learn
how to set it up, get it running it's best, and learn how to use it safely!  
If it doesn't work well for you, then dump it, if it does, you now own a fine 
piece of equipment and history.  When you consider the big picture  a few bucks
don't make much difference.  If you are concerned about getting a good deal, then
don't be so damned impulsive in the first place.

Well, so much for kindness... :)

It's a good deal if you're happy with it, it ain't if you aren't.

I'm pretty impulsive too, but I can take a lesson from bennett.... He get's good deals,
so I just buy what he does and I don't have to worry about it. ;) 

Good luck with your "new" jointer, and let us know how it works out.


chip


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stevenj@microsoft.com (Steven Johnson)
Subject: Re: Scraping versus Sanding
Date: 11 Dec 92 15:57:50 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp.
Summary: Dresden's advice


I happened to just finish reading Micheal Dresden's section on sanding
vs. scraping from his "Woodfinishing Book", published by Taunton Press.

He claims sanding with more than 180 grit is overkill for most woods, 
exceptions being very hard woods like ebony and some woods like cherry
that have considerable differences between their hard and soft grain.
He says to take them all the way up to 220.

He predicates this logic on the fact the the wood surface itself is
rougher than the sandpaper at higher grits.  He says the higher grit
papers are used between finishing coats to sand essentially the *finish*,
not the wood.

There is also alot of information on how grit rating are determined, etc.
and he recommends using the micron-rated papers because of their
superior backing and grit homogeniety (and their wet-dry capability.)
His book is well worth the cost in my opinion, I've always felt
finishing was my weak point in woodworking and I've learned a
tremendous amount already (explaining alot of past mistakes) and I'm
only half-way through the book.
From: ron@topaz.bds.com (Ron Natalie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Machinery on Concrete Floors
Date: 18 Dec 1992 16:26:34 GMT
Organization: BDS Systems
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: topaz.bds.com

Concrete is frequently wet (even when it is soaked), and is also corrosive.
For this reason as well you're required here to use Pressure Treated bottom
plates for even interior walls when placed on concrete.

-Ron
 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: Archer Gravely <gravely@unca.edu>
Subject: Using Plunge Router in Router Table
Organization: University of North Carolina at Asheville
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 18:47:21 GMT

I have a Makita 3 hp Plunge Router and would like to know if
other folks have tried to use this type of router under a router
table?  Are their any problems in using plunge routers with
a table?

Archer Gravely
UNC Asheville
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jim@thor.albany.edu (SCHLEMMER JAMES A)
Subject: HELP: Looking for info on exotic hardwoods (mail order woes)
Organization: State University of New York at Albany
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 92 16:15:59 GMT

Hi,

Yesterday I received some exotic hardwoods that I had ordered from Woodworker's
Source in Phoenix.  Before I call up to bitch, I'd like to get some feedback from
more experienced woodworkers about what is to be expected in such an endevour.
Please feel free to comment on any of the following:

o general questions:
	1) They advertise 4/4" board feet.  What does 4/4" mean?  The planks are
	   in fact 7/8" thick.  Is this analogous the the 2X4 being nowhere near
	   2" X 4" but that's the industry standard?
	2) Is it the usual case with such woods that only one side is guaranteed to
	   be usable and free from flaws?  The flyer said surfaced on 2 sides.

o wood cost: 67.50	Shipping/handling: 22.50 (!!)

o wood breakdown:
	African Paduak	5.1  bf @ $7.99/bf (2 pieces)
	Purple Heart    3.25 bf @ $4.79/bf (2 pieces)
	Peroba Rosa     2.0  bf @ $5.59/bf (1 piece)

o wood flaws:
	general		Almost every piece had its corners rounded by poor handling.  The
			entire order was rapped in plastic but the plastic was worn 
			through at the corners.  It also had mud on it, which had seeped
			through to some of the boards.

	African Paduak	Each piece has "flakey" areas on the broad sides - kind
			of like cracks that would develop under a great load but
			if you follow the cracks down to the edge of the board you can
			see that they are actually more like gaps that run through the
			wood.  I don't know if this is the nature of the wood or if I
			got stuck with some real bum pieces.  One piece has these "flakey"
			areas on both sides.  I looks like it would be quite a job to 
			finish these parts of the wood.

	Purple Heart    Condition of the wood is OK but on one side of each piece there
			is a major bleach stain running down its length.  I took some
			sandpaper and a rasp to one board and verified that they are not
			superficial stains.  These stains account for about 1/5 of the
			area.

	Peroba Rosa     This is a 1x2 board and has a split running 2/3 of the way down 
			the length of the board.  If I were to try to cut it into 2 1x1 
			pieces, I'd end up with three pieces.  This seems unacceptable.


I layed out $90.00 for 5 planks of wood and not one of them is without a major flaw.  To
say that I'm disappointed is a bit of an understatement.  It seems that these folks send
you the pieces that never get taken from the sales floor.  So you pay the absurd shipping
charges and get the most inferior goods.  But I guess that's the nature of mail order;
alot of places count on people saying "it's too much of a pain to send it back - I'll
just live with it."

Then again, maybe I'm wrong.


Jim


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: asket@acad2.alaska.edu
Subject: Piano kits & CD scratches
Organization: University of Alaska
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 02:51:24 GMT

Gee, sort of like the question, "I'm building a full size replica of the
Great Pyramid, are there any kits available?"  Sorry, as a strictly amateur
woodworker, and a slightly less amateur musician, I couldn't resist.  I 
admire the ambition, but I'm still laughing all over my office at the
image of the UPS delivery guy trying to get that 1200 pound piece of 
cast iron into your mailbox when he delivers your piano kit.
  
Oh, and about the CD scratch--if a guy can afford a CD player in his car,
can't he afford a new CD?  I'm sorry, I'm sorry, I'm still laughing at
the piano kit, I sincerely wish the piano builder the best of luck.
Wait until my woodworking club hears about this one...
                     --KT3--     
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bellas@soldev.TTI.COM (Pete Bellas)
Subject: Re: Williams Tool & Hardware Supply -- bankcruptcy msg
Keywords: woodworking supplier, tools, busted
Reply-To: bellas@soldev.TTI.COM (Pete Bellas)
Organization: Transaction Technology, Inc.
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 15:21:56 GMT

In article <1992Dec12.201640.6407@cbnewse.cb.att.com>,
parnass@cbnewse.cb.att.com (Bob Parnass, AJ9S) writes:
> 
>    A recorded announcement on the toll free order line for
>    Williams Tool & Hardware Supply of Ft. Worth, Texas says it is
>    in Chapter 11 bankcruptcy.

So that's why I couldn't get through last week, I tried for three days
then gave up and bought locally.

			-Pete-


* Pete Bellas                   "Cogito ergo spud"                         *
* Citicorp/TTI                       I think therefore I yam.              *
* Santa Monica, CA                                                         *
* bellas@gamma.tti.com                                                     *
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: obrien@serum.clpd.Kodak.Com (John O'Brien (x37279))
Subject: Re: Finishing walnut
Reply-To: obrien@serum.kodak.com
Organization: Eastman Kodak Company - Clinical Products Division
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 17:40:44 GMT

I just finished a walnut lazy susan style turntable which can be
used to display nick-nacks, whatever.
I first sanded(sorry purists) the blanks starting with 80 grit in the
belt sander, then 120 in belt sander, then 150 on R.O.S, then 180 on 
R.O.S. I then used 220 on a palm sander. Since walnut is rather
open-grained, it was evident that the wood needed filling. I then
applied Behlens walnut colored wood filler. You brush this on with
the grain and then scrape it off against the grain with a credit
card type scraper object. This procedure leaves the filler in the 
pores of the wood. If the wood is not sanded down to 220 level,
the scratches from sanding will also be filled so be sure to sand
properly before filling. I then waited a week for filler to dry. My
past experiences with the stuff always just smeared it around when
I only wait a day or so. I then applied a coat of sanding sealer to
all sides and edges. This may be overkill but I already had the stuff.
I then wet sanded with water the sanding sealer lightly using 220, and
then 600 grits. The next step is to apply finish. I chose deft laquer
as a finish because it goes well with the sanding sealer I used. The
sanding sealer did not recommend to be used under polueurethanes, other
wise I would have used a poly. After each coat of laquer, I wet sanded
with water lightly with 220, then again with 600. I put on 3 coats.
For a final luster, after lightly wet sanding with just the 600, I
rubbed with the grain a compound called rottenstone on a wet rag.
after rubbing off the excess I then rubbed the rottonstone dry onto
the finish. This produces the nicest finish imaginable. I used this
process on 3 types of wood, cherry, oak, and walnut. The cherry came
out the nicest with perfect glass-like look and feel.
	The things I have learned from using this process.
1) Don't wet sand with 220. Too course. Try 320 or similar.
2) Don't wet sand thru sanding sealer or wood fibers will raise.
3) Don't like Deft laquer. Dries too quickly. 
4) Would use spray as opposed to brush if I could.

This technique produces very nice finished on open grained woods. It
does take a lot of time though.

John O'Brien
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 15 Dec 1992 08:50:28 -0600
From:         Jeff Roberts <JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.BITNET>
Subject:      Piano kit

I was just reading mail from a gentleman who could hardly contain himself
about a request for info on a piano kit.  I purged the mail and then decided
to respond so I don't know his name.  He wrote that he sincerly hoped the
fellow who was looking for the kit found one but didn't sound very sincere..

I guess I just don't get the joke, a piano has major component that are made
of wood....why is this funny.  I can envision a kit containing the more
difficult components already made and allowing the DIY'r to handle the less
difficult parts, assembly and finish..

BTW, if you think the piano is hilarious you should see the full size working,
totally functional automobiles that are made entirely from wood.  Obviously
some components (engine, brakes, etc.) are not but the body, bumpers, grill,
interior, trim pieces, are all wood, anything metal that can be made from
wood is replaced......and believe me you'd be surprised..

It's been awhile but I'm sure the car I saw was built by a fellow who had a
shop in his garage.....now that's what I'd call funny.  Piano kit? sounds
reasonable to me..

P.S. I just remembered that I met a fellow who, with the help of his father,
     built their own single seat airplane together.  As I recall he was
 putting
     "test" hours on the plane by circling the airport before he could get it
     certified.  That was one good looking piece of transportation I'm here to
     say.  This was at my neighborhood little spit airport so this guy was my
     neighbor.  A piano is looking easier and easier..


Jeff Roberts JROBERTS@UTDA
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: gcohen@mailer.cc.fsu.edu (Gregory Cohen)
Subject: Re: HELP: Looking for info on exotic hardwoods (mail order woes)
Organization: Florida State University
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 92 15:46:45 GMT

With all the problems in purchasing mail-order hardwood, perhapse we should
gather a FAQ like file of the best hardwood dealers around, so when we  
travel (say on a state grant to a convention) we might be able to stop by
and pick up our own wood.  The juggling group maintains one of these and
its quite helpful.

-GReg
gcohen@mailer.cc.fsu.edu

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: eap@vuse.vanderbilt.edu (Edward A. Parrish)
Subject: Re: Safest way to use radial arm saw?
Organization: Vanderbilt University School of Engineering, Nashville, TN, USA
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 22:48:41 GMT

In article <BzH835.GME@vuse.vanderbilt.edu> eap@vuse.vanderbilt.edu (Edward A. Parrish) writes:
>In article <Treble-181292095032@asc438.asc.slb.com> Treble@asc.slb.com (John Treble) writes:
>>This may sound like a stupid question, but I'll risk the ridicule
>>anyway....
>>
>>My father died recently and I inherited his old Sear radial arm saw.  I
>>have only part
>>of the owners manual. Unfortunately, the part that descibes the setup of
>>the table is missing.  I would like to know what the safest recommended way
>>to use this saw.
>>Do I set up the fence so that the saw is parked the furthest away from me
>>behind the fence? Or do I park the saw closest to me in front of the fence?
>> Is it best to push the blade through the work, or pull it through the
>>work?
>>
>>I also have one of those wobbling dado heads, and consider it to be the
>>most vicious tool I've ever seen!  How do you put the guard on that beast?

TYPO alert: sorry.
>I have such a RAS and will be happy to send you a copy of the
>instructions, if you give me a mailing address. In the meantime,
>the fence position is always in back of the saw **BLADE FOR RIPPING
AND THE HEAD PARKED BEHIND THE FENCE FOR CROSSCUTTING**. The teeth rotate
>in a direction that tends to push the workpiece back against the
>fence. The fence also serves to keep the wood from splintering
>when the teeth exit the workpiece. You NEVER push the blade through
>the work.
>
>There is a Sears molding head guard that works with some
>dado heads - it does with mine, and I have both the wobble
>and the chipper types.
>
>Try going into a Sears store and getting a knowledgeable
>(important) salesperson to demonstrate proper use. 
>
>-- 
>Goal: To benefit from the offer for "Free Tools Tomorrow" that
>is posted in many store windows.
>Standard Disclaimer, of course.


-- 
Goal: To benefit from the offer for "Free Tools Tomorrow" that
is posted in many store windows.
Standard Disclaimer, of course.