HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: livings@unislc.uucp (Ross Livingston)
Subject: Re: brine shrimp
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Organization: Unisys Corporation SLC
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1992 20:55:02 GMT

While we're on the topic.  I live in Salt Lake (home of lot's of
brine shrimp I guess) and am wondering how to harvest them.  Do
I need a boat or are they around the shorelines?

Also, I priced brine shrip eggs with a local harvester.  He quoted me
$8.00 / lb. but said if I bought bulk (around 5 gallons) I could get a
real price break.  I couldn't feed that many in a lifetime!  That's
probably about 25 lbs!  Can anyone tell me if this price is even
competative?  He's going to let me take a sample to see if I can even
hatch them.


-- 
Ross Livingston, Unisys Corp.  |  Phone   (801) 594-6217
livings%unislc.uunet.uu.net    |  Fax     801-594-4861 / 801-594-6708
From: infante@acpub.duke.edu (Andrew  Infante)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Induced voltages
Date: 23 Nov 92 16:37:00 GMT
Organization: Duke University; Durham, N.C.

RE: titanium and surgical stainless steel

Yup, I've got a couple titanium screws in my knee from surgery - light,
strong _and_ corrosive resistant! :)

andy
From: booth@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (George Booth)
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 19:34:53 GMT
Subject: Re: Growing plants <F>
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria

In rec.aquaria, shine@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (stephen.c.shine) writes:

    As I've heard from John Kuhns, inventor of Novaqua & AmQuel, phosphate
    provides a wonderful buffer, which is why John puts it in Novaqua.  It's 
    a 3 level buffer, whereas the regular alkalinity system is only 2 levels,
    carbonate and bicarbonate.  One of the drawback to using phosphates is 
    that it can promote some serious algae growth, lest everybody think
    they can dump lots of phosphates into their tanks without seeing some
    not-so-nice effects.

Hmmm, a "3 level buffer is better than a 2 level buffer"?  If the "levels"
refer to the "equilibrium points", than this statement is meaningless. 

The phosphate buffering system has equilibrium points at ph=2.13, 7.21 and
12.32, meaning that there is a strong buffering action around those
pH values.  So if your tank tends to wander from a pH of 2 to a pH of 13,
this 3 level system may be just the ticket for you.  You also may want
to consider a different hobby.

The carbonate buffering system has equilibrium points at pH=6.37 and 10.25,
so if your tanks drift from pH=6 to pH=11, this may be better for you. 
You also may want to conder taking up basket weaving. 

If your tank tends to stay around pH 7, then either system is about the same
and other considerations come into play: phosphates tend to promote algae;
carbonates can be used with CO2 injection to make your plants spring to
life; phosphates come in nice packages and can be used by people with varying
levels of expertise without catastrophic results; carbonates are best
left to the careful. 

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
George L. Booth                                Author, Aquarium Fish Magazine
booth@hplvec.lvld.hp.com                      Member, Rainbowfish Study Group
Software Development Engineer               Member, Colorado Aquarium Society
Manufacturing Test Division            Member, Aquatic Gardener's Association
Hewlett-Packard Company                Author, Aquatic Gardener's Association
Loveland, Colorado                Founding Member, The Colorado Aquarium, Inc
         /\                     Member, The Colorado Aquarium Plant Committee
    /\  /  \/\           Chairman, The Colorado Aquarium Filtration Committee
___/  \/   /  \___  Member, The Colorado Aquarium S.E. Asia Exhibit Committee
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: dave@borland.com (Dave Draper)
Subject: Re: HELP! Oscar has Hole-in-the-Head
Originator: dave@genghis.borland.com
Organization: Borland International
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 23:53:56 GMT

In article <F=NW9JG=Q@linac.fnal.gov> darrenq@linac.fnal.gov (Darren Qunell x3530) writes:
>
>I am interested to know the typical causes of this disease as well as
>effective treatments.  I believe there is a treatment called something
>like "Paragon II" which claims to be effective against
>hole-in-the-head, while not harming my barb or balas.  Has anyone used
>this product?  Did it stop the disease?  Did the 'hole' heal
>completely?
>
>Right now, the hole is about 3mm in diameter.  I had a former large
>Oscar which died of the disease.  I tried numerous cures suggested by
>pet stores to no avail.  They did not include Paragon II or tincture
>Iodine.  Is there hope for the fishy?
>

While I never used Paragon II on an Oscar I have used it on Gold Severums
with hole-in-the-head. I was very happy with the results. I had Two
Gold Severums that developed holes in their head about the size of a BB.
I was actually surprised at how fast the holes developed. 

I removed all of the GAC from the filters and treated with Paragon II
after a 50% water change. The holes in both of them healed up in a couple
of days. I would try in with an Oscar if it were mine.

>
>Darren Qunell
>darrenq@adcalc.fnal.gov	     
>	     

- Dave
  Pacific Coast Cichlid Association
  Cichlasoma Study Group

-- 
Dave Draper                         |
Senior Engineer - Debugger & Tools  |     Losers make excuses,
Borland International               |     Winners make it happen!
dave@borland.com                    |
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: rclark@alcor.concordia.ca (Richard Clark)
Subject: Re: chlorine/amine removers
Organization: Concordia University, Montreal, Quebec
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 04:15:38 GMT

In article <1992Nov16.230400.11552@Veritas.COM> joshua@Veritas.COM (Joshua Levy) writes:
>My bottle of AmQuel ammonia, chloramines, and chlorine remover (by 
>Kordon) is almost empty.  Is there any reason to buy a different 
>brand when my current supply runs out?

Amquel doesn't have phosphates, which is nice.  But, it doesn't remove
harmful metals like copper (novaqua is recommended for that - but I
refuse to use it because of the phosphate buffers).  What I would like
to see is Amquel which also removes metals.  I use Amquel myself, but
would like to use something else.  I've heard Tetra makes a product
that does what I want, but I don't know its name.

rick


-- 
rick clark (rclark@alcor.concordia.ca) | Ban Handguns.
           (CIS 70272,3270)            |
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [M] Cycling - Month 4
From: brian@picasso.icd.teradyne.com (Brian Hunter)
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 23:41:48 GMT
Organization: Teradyne, Inc. San Jose CA

In article <1992Nov19.073829.3094@ucsu.Colorado.EDU> nagel@ucsu.Colorado.EDU (Kurt Nagel) writes:
>wieser@bissun.kodak.com (Jim Wieser) writes:
>
>>About a month into things, the brown diatoms showed up. They were quickly 
>>replaced with mainly purple algae although some bright green algae also 
>>showed up. The purple algae hasn't gone away. 
>
>I had a similar problem.  In my case, the local experts explained that the
>purple stuff is not actually an algae but is much more voracious than green
>algae, so it takes over. It is most likely due to metal content in your water.  The solution was as follows:

Where did you hear this about metals? 
Usually the 'red algae' or cyano bacteria is introduced and does well.
A high organic level in the water seems to promote it but once it takes
hold good water quality won't necessaryly get rid of it.

>
>	1. Remove all carbon/chemical filtration (They will extract the
>           medication)
>	2. Apply a half dose of maricyn (An antibiotic) on day 1
>	3. Apply a half dose of maricyn on day 2
>	4. The purple stuff should begin to die back within a few days
>	   If not apply another half dose of marycin (NO MORE)
>	5. After die back begins, vacuum main body of crud and change
>	   about 20% of the water.
>	6. After a bout a week (As long as die back is happening) replace
>	   filtration.  Use either Polyfilter or Chemi-pure (These will 
>	   extract metals where most filter materials will not)
>	7. IMPORTANT:  After the red/purple stuff dies, you will have lost
>                       most of your biological filter.  Monitor your nitrates
I think you meant nitites here.  Although if the dead algae is not 
removed it will certainly result in nitrates as well.

>		       religiously and perform frequent water changes until
>		       the system stabilizes.

This is not necessary true.  I have used maracyn several times and never
seen any problem with the filter.  In another recent post on this subject
it was thought that this may be worse in fresh water that salt.

>
>	My tank was completely cured.  Remember what I said about water
>changes and nitrates.  I had to battle a hair algae problem after the 
>purple crud because I didn't keep my nitrates down.

I have found (and in articles seen it confirmed) that the cyano bacteria
leave behind spores that will lie about for a week or two and then 
?germenate? and start the problem over.  This will require a second
treatment.  I have also seen it recommended that a treatment last 2 weeks
however I prefer a second pass over the prolonged treatment.

Brian Hunter



Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: cliff@watson.ibm.com (cliff)
Subject: Iridescent shark catfish		
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 21:14:53 GMT
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: A

Do iridescent shark catfish eat at night?  Even though my specimen	
is quite active during the day, I never see him eat.  I wonder if they
prefer to scavenge for food when the lights are out.		
Thanks, Cliff
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: walter@optimla.aimla.com (Walter Hunt)
Subject: What's in them heaters, anyway?
Organization: OptImage Interactive Services Co., L.P.
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 92 01:57:52 GMT


	Well, my latest minor disaster struck on Friday. I neglected my
maintenance for a couple days, and the water level in the sump dropped a bit too
low for my (Visi-Therm) heater to handle. The thing busted into about 5 or 6
pieces, and I didn't notice until Saturday morning as I was heading out the
door. Given that the lights were already on, and the temp. was about 74 already
from the lights, I just removed the broken pieces and replaced the heater when I
got back in the afternoon.

	The fish never even seemed to notice the lack of heater. When I saw them
Saturday morning, they were screaming "feed me" the way they do every morning.
The only reason I knew something was wrong was because the anemonies that came
in with the live rock were all shriveled up and dark purple and black.

	I assumed from the looks of the anemonies that the heater had released
something nasty into the tank when it broke, so I did a ~8% water change when I
put the new heater in. Since they still looked pretty unhappy this morning, I
did another ~8% water change. I only have the "normal" test kits (ammonia,
nitrite, nitrate, pH, salinity, copper) and none of them show anything terribly
out of wack.

	So, does anyone have any idea what is pissing off the anemonies? They
are still alive, because they do seem to be recovering (very!) slightly, but
they are most unhappy with life. My gut feeling is that the heater uses
something nasty in the (normally sealed) glass portion that is not part of my
standard tests, and that it is unhealthy for the inverts (my limpits, oysters,
turbin snails, bubble snails, and crabs all kinda look unhappy too).

	Any ideas, anyone?


-- 
Walter Hunt					walter@optimage.com
OptImage Interactive Services Company, L.P.	walter@aimla.com
11040 Santa Monica Blvd., Suite #300		uunet!{optimage,aimla}!walter
Los Angeles, Ca. 90025				(310) 445-5718
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: mark stephens <stephens@kong.gsfc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Re: RFUGF -- too much?
X-Xxmessage-Id: <A72D54DB9E01EC3D@mstephens.gsfc.nasa.gov>
X-Xxdate: Mon, 16 Nov 92 13:38:35 GMT
Organization: NASA/GSFC
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d12
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 92 18:37:14 GMT


I don't know about the possibility of injury to fish, but a fluidized bed
of filter media, from all reports I've read, provides excellent
bio-filtration.  I believe there was a report on this in FAMA a month or
so ago, but I'm not sure.

     mark


Subject: RFUGF -- too much?
From: Frank Fujita, ffujita@s.psych.uiuc.edu
Date: 16 Nov 92 06:28:18 GMT
In article <Bxspz7.A3E@news.cso.uiuc.edu> Frank Fujita,
ffujita@s.psych.uiuc.edu writes:
>I have a 29 gal aquarium.  In it I have a Aquaclear 802 powerhead
.........
>
>What I'm noticing is that at my lift tube corner (where the gravel is
>about seven inches deep), the gravel is sifting/shifting/moving.  
..........
>Comments?
>
>Frank Fujita
Organization: University of Maine System
Date: Saturday, 21 Nov 1992 14:27:58 EST
From: <APARKER@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: FLOUNDERS
Distribution: world

In article <6659.106.uupcb@cccbbs.UUCP>, jeffrey.astrachan@cccbbs.UUCP (Jeffrey
Astrachan) says:
>
>Hi everyone.  I feel so badly writing that I only have a 10 gallon tank.
>But I do feel I'm making the most of it.  I've been trying lately to
>purchase more interesting looking fish.  My latest purchase was two
>flounders, each about 2-inches in diameter.  I don't really know if I
>need to do anything special with them.  My pH is quite low (about 6.2),
>but all of my fish (about 12) seem quite happy.  I did have a really

** 'Freshwater' flounders are, in reality, brackish water fish, and if you
 don't keep at least a few tsp. of salt/gal in their water they will
 ultimately, in a word, flounder.  They'd probably prefer the pH above 7,
 too.   As to your tank, you already have too many fish for long-term
 survival in a 10gal, so if you intend to keep buying fish, a larger setup
 is probably in order.  As to the flounders, good luck sexing them (esp.
 @2" in size).  Feed them frozen bloodworms and brine shrimp, make sure the
 other fish aren't getting all of the food (flounders are slow), and expect
 them to reach at least 6", if they survive.

     Good luck,
     Alex Parker (aparker@maine.maine.edu)
>
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:8906 alt.aquaria:5812 sci.aquaria:1650
From: flick@cwis.unomaha.edu (John Anderson)
Subject: Algae on the hood...ick!
Organization: University of Nebraska at Omaha
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 05:53:51 GMT

I have several tanks, and on all the tanks I have the same problem.  Algae
will grow in a thick coating on the glass/plastic above the tank where the
light shines through.  I have tried reducing the time the light is on, but
I also have plants and can't cut it too far back.  It is a MAJOR hassle to
yank off the hood everytime I do a water change.  Are there any answers to
my dilema???


--
|  John Anderson                      | The views expressed are usually   |
|  U. of Nebraska at Omaha            | my own, and occasionally someone  |
|  Omaha, Nebraska, USA               | other than myself...but they are  |
|  Internet: flick@cwis.unomaha.edu   | usually %100 correct!             |
From: sharon@minster.york.ac.uk
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Bronze Catfish ahve done mad
Date: 18 Nov 92 11:33:48 GMT
Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of York, England

The above says it all! In my tank I have a small group of catfish, 2 albino
and 2 Bronze, they were fine until I added 3 khuli loaches, these were added
about a week ago and the bronze catfish have been darting about like
demented things ever since, they are terified of anything and everything. I
have had a good luck at them and there is no sign or rash or whitespot, they
look perfectly healthy. I have checked the nitrate/nitrite/ph etc, the water
quality is fine. Could they be lonely. I carnt think of anything else that
it could be, all my other fish are fine.

luck - look (sorry)

I would appreciate some advice on what it could be

thanks
sharon
From: joshua@Veritas.COM (Joshua Levy)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: chlorine/amine removers
Date: 16 Nov 92 23:04:00 GMT
Organization: VERITAS Software

My bottle of AmQuel ammonia, chloramines, and chlorine remover (by 
Kordon) is almost empty.  Is there any reason to buy a different 
brand when my current supply runs out?

I use it for freshwater tanks containing goldfish, tetras, bettas, 
guppies and other live bearers (in several different tanks).  It 
also treats water going into my daphnia cultures, if that matters.

Joshua Levy  (joshua@veritas.com)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: "larry wheatley" <larry.wheatley@canrem.com>
Subject: (m) bad city wate
Reply-To: "larry wheatley" <larry.wheatley@canrem.com>
Organization: Canada Remote Systems
Distribution: rec
Date: 17 Nov 92 14:12:26 EST

Hi All,
       I recently recieved a fax from the city water supply on
water quality analysis.  I have heard of some pretty bad city water.
I live just outside TORONTO. (BLUE JAYS!!!) It makes no mention
of CHLORAMINE in the water only CHLORIDE and CHLORINE!?!.......

CHLORINE TOTAL    0.5 MG/L
CHLORIDE         35.7 MG/L
CALCIUM          42.2 MG/L
HARDNESS        140.4 MG/L
AMMONIUM TOTAL   0.16 MG/L
NITRATES         0.47 MG/L
PH               8.1
CONDUCTIVITY    350.8 UMHO/CM is this the redox potential???
PHOSPHORUS TOTAL .003 MG/L
SULPHATE         30.0 MG/L

So is this good water for my reef tank or should I treat it?
for now I have been letting it stand for a couple of days
before I use it for evaporation.
I read in Moe that CHLORINE AND AMMONIA form chloramine can
the 0.5 chlorine and 0.16 ammonia form chloramine in the tap???
Thanks for any help or comments?

Larry Wheatley
---
  DeLuxe 1.21 #4132  I tried the rest but bought the best!!!!
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
From: wieser@bissun.kodak.com (Jim Wieser)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: [M] Cycling - Month 4
Date: 18 Nov 92 17:54:44 GMT
Organization: Eastman Kodak

I started a marine tank on 08/01/92 in a 55g, UGF w/ 2 powerheads, large power filter, and standard 40W lamp. I added 6 blue damsels and the initial two months of cycling went fine. About a month into things, the brown diatoms showed up. They were quickly replaced with mainly purple algae although some bright green algae also showed up. The purple algae hasn't gone away. I talked with my fish store and they suggested adding an additional 40W lamp. I added a blue moon reef bulb two months ago and the purple






 algae hasn't decreased. I do 20% water changes
every other week. The tank now has only a coral beauty and a hippo tang. Is the purple algae normal or should it eventually disappear.

-- 
Jim Wieser, Eastman Kodak Company            Internet: wieser@bissun.kodak.com
m/s 35424 --  901 Elmgrove Road              Phone:    (716) 726-6538
Rochester, New York 14653-5424               Fax:      (716) 726-0129
Any opinions expressed herein belong to me and not to my employer.
From: scol@scottsdale.az.stratus.com (Scott Colbath)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Neons and stuff
Date: 19 Nov 92 16:59:41 GMT
Organization: Stratus Computer Inc, Marlboro MA
NNTP-Posting-Host: scottsdale.az.stratus.com

In article <1edna1INNg50@transfer.stratus.com> scol@scottsdale.az.stratus.com  
(Scott Colbath) THAT'S ME!! writes:
> I come into work this morning and there is a 75 gallon tank, stand and covers  
> sitting in the hallway. Mmmmm, I wonder if the guy who owns the stuff is
> going to set it up in the office or if he is selling it. He isn't around to 
> ask.

As it turns out, the tank is going to be setup as an Iguanararium (sp?). I am  
bummed. They want to set it up with a desert look since we are located in  
Phoenix and lots of visitors go through the office.
--
**********************************************************
Scott Colbath
Stratus Computer
Phoenix, Az.  (602)852-3106
Internet:scott_colbath@az.stratus.com
**********************************************************
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:8900 sci.aquaria:1648
From: ahughes@arch386.hyperdesk.com (Arch Hughes)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
Subject: Re: Why quarantine? (was ich)
Date: 17 Nov 92 23:51:58 GMT
Reply-To: arch@hyperdesk.com
Followup-To: rec.aquaria
Organization: HyperDesk Corporation

In article <1992Nov12.235532.1849@bagend.uucp>, jan@bagend.uucp (Jan Isley) writes:
> 
> Saltwater fish get a 13 minute freshwater dip and freshwater fish
> get a 5 minute saltwater dip unless they appear to be dying of
> stress before the time is up.  Other than that, do not treat a fish
> unless you *know* it has a problem and you are real sure what it is.
> And do not add the dip water to a tank because even though they may
> fall off of the fish, many parasites survive the dip.
> -- 
> Jan Isley   jan@bagend.uucp   gatech.edu!bagend!jan   (404)434-1335

A marine fish can take a 13 minute fresh water dip?  That seems like a
pretty long time.  Is that a correct entry?  Is the time dependent on
the subject's size?  Is this time for very large fish, small fish, or
all fish?

-- 
o o|  Arch Hughes, HyperDesk Corp.        Phone   508-366-5050 x103
o o|  Suite 300, 2000 West Park Dr.       Fax     508-898-3841
---+  Westboro, MA   01581                E-Mail  arch@hyperdesk.com
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: nclennan@churchst.ccs.itd.umich.edu (Neil F. Clennan)
Subject: Re: Golden Severums and Anglefish			
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 92 15:48:37 EST
Organization: The University of Michigan, Ann Arbor

In article <1992Nov10.194350.3394@borland.com> dave@borland.com (Dave Draper)  
writes:
> Gold Severums, _Heros severus_, are herbivor cichlids from South America.
> They are relatively docile fish except when they get larger and are kept
> with each other. The thing to note about Severums is that they are
> capable of getting quite large. It is not uncommom for them to reach
> 10 inches if kept in a large enough tank.

Did you say "herbivore"?!!  Not mine.  Mine are omnivorous.  Though the
books I've read can't agree on whether to call Gold Severums Heros severus
or Cichlasoma severum, none of them call these fish herbivores.

--
Neil Clennan
nclennan@churchst.ccs.itd.umich.edu
Organization: Ryerson Polytechnical Institute
Distribution: na
Date: Sunday, 15 Nov 1992 11:20:07 EST
From: <UPLG6984@RyeVm.Ryerson.Ca>
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: (F) Whitish growth on bogwood- need advice

     I have a 29gal tank that I set up about 2 weeks ago.  I am using a Penguin
powerhead (with attachments) as a RUGF for a biological filter, and a Fluval 4
as mechanical.  I soaked a piece bogwood in running warm water for 4 days, and
then placed it in the tank.  I waited a week, and added some java ferns and a
generous clump of java moss.  The moss is now showing whitish slimy growths on
some of the fronds, and now some of this has crept on to the bogwood.
Questions:
1.  Is this fungi?  If so, how did it get into my tank?  (on the moss
or the bogwood?)
2.  Should I remove the moss and sterilize the bogwood?(i.e. re-soak
 it)
about the system that I have set up.  I am using a penguin (?model number)
power head for a RUGF and a Fluval 4 filter for mechanical filtering.  I soaked
a large chunk of bogwood in warm running water for about 4 days.  The water was
 running clear when I removed it from the sink and installed it in my tank.
Later, I added 3 or 4 Java ferns, and a large clump of Java moss attached to
the bogwood.
Some of the fronds of moss have developed a whitish substance that resembles
fungi.  This has also spread to parts of the bog wood, even parts that are not
in contact with the moss.Is this stuff fungi?  Did it become introduced
       3.  How can I prevent this from happening in the future?  (if it is
possible :-) )


_______________________________________________________________________________
Andrew Roberts
Ryerson Polytechnical Institute
School of Urban and Regional Planning..  Toronto ONT
E-mail UPLG6984@RyeVM.Ryerson.Ca
UPLG6984@RyeVM