HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: stevenj@microsoft.com (Steven Johnson)
Subject: Re: sawdust & glue
Date: 14 Oct 92 17:55:43 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp.
Distribution: rec
Summary: sanding sealer

In article <1992Oct12.4243.8580@dosgate>, "craig treleaven" <craig.treleaven@canrem.com> writes:
> UN:
> 
>    More than once, I've heard people mention the wonders of sawdust and
> glue in patching small holes and gouges.  But I don't know anything else
> about it.
> 
>    What proportions of sawdust and glue?  Mostly sawdust with just
> enough glue to hold it together sounds plausible.
> 
>    What kind of glue?  Yellow, white or something special?  If I want to
> stain the piece afterwards, does it make a difference?

Rather than glue, try using sanding sealer.  This dries fast, doesn't 
affect stainability noticably and seems to fill and color-match the
surrounding wood quite nicely.  I gave up on yellow glue years ago.
From: rlz@svl.cdc.com (Robert L Zalusky)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Table saw extensions
Summary: Good Table saw extensions supporting routers
Keywords: Table Saw Extensions
Date: 12 Oct 92 20:30:18 GMT

I saw in some of my mail order catalogs replacement table saw extensions that will accept
a router plate(square hole for lexan insert). There were variations the cheap ones could be
made by hand I suppose out of wood. Some were out of stamped steel. A particularly well made
one was actually ground cast iron(no grate holes) with one square insert for the router plate.
The unit measured 27 inches by 18 inches which lengthens the current extension by 7 inches.

My question - Is there competition on this quality variation - as the model mentioned is $300 (wow).
I would like a good solid solution and not stamped metal.
--
The opinions expressed are my own.  Computing Devices International(CDI)
is not responsible or knowledgable about them.

Bob Zalusky
Internet:               rlz@svl.cdc.com
Phone:                  (408) 496-4374
Fax:                    (408) 496-4106
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: rlw@IDA.ORG (Richard Wexelblat)
Subject: Re: Lathe sanding - avoiding sanding rings
Organization: IDA, Alexandria, VA
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 92 17:53:08 GMT

What you describe seems to be mostly spindle-turning and I have little
experience with that.  For faceplate turning I use a velcro-attachment
power-sanding gadget on an electric drill.  If I'm careful when moving
through the 80-120-180 series, I seem to get the sandpaper scratches
out.  Some woods -- mahogany, e.g. -- want to be wet-sanded.  I use
peanut oil for the wet sanding; water just doesn't hack it when it
comes to satin finish..

I find the best quality disks and arbors come from Maurice Gamblin in
Canada.  If you want his address, let me know and I'll post it.  ("Best
quality means longest lasting.)"
-- 
--Dick Wexelblat  (rlw@ida.org) 703 845 6601
  This message is not copyright.  Please feel free to use it
  in any context, at any time, with or without attribution.
  Quotes out of context and parodies are encouraged.
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Reasons for owning a planer (was Re: Red Oak in Bulk)
Date: 10 Oct 92 00:02:01 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: LLNL

In article <1992Oct9.222611.10752@adobe.com>, bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds) writes:
> 

> 5) You want really straight boards (and you also have a jointer).
>    I've found that pre-planed lumber is often not very flat. I don't
>    know the reasons for this, but I'd guess:
> 	a) Yards don't face joint before they thickness plane.
> 	b) Yards plane before the wood has completely dried.
> 	c) The yard-planed lumber is stacked poorly and/or in an
>            environment where the humidity varies.
> 
Tage Frid says, with considerable justification I'd say, that you should
joint, plane, and glue within a couple of days.  Otherwise even dry lumber
moves.  From what I've seen, he's right.  Yard lumber could sit for months
before you get it, at which point who knows what shape it has?

This all only means something if you really like a good fit, which I think
Bennett certainly does.  If you don't care, by all means buy your plywood at
the yard.

G.
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: nailing w/o splitting
Date: 13 Oct 92 18:12:47 GMT
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ

In article <WOODWORK%92101214190202@IPFWVM.BITNET> JM01@SWTEXAS.BITNET writes:

>...............................  I've seen folks dull the tips of nails by
>whacking them a couple times with a hammer, before driving them into narrow
>boards, to avoid splitting.  Does this really do any good?

Yes.

patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | Laser Printer, n;  A xeroxigraphical copying
                    |   machine with additional malfunctioning parts.
                    |                            The Dumpty Dictionary
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: plummer@den.mmc.com (Mike Plummer)
Subject: Re:      Inlay
Originator: plummer@shell
Keywords: inlay
Organization: Martin Marietta Astronautics, Denver
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 02:30:18 GMT


James

I've done a bit of inlay work on guitars that I've built.  Its fun and looks
real nice too.  I use abalone cut from raw shells that I find on the beach near
here, I imagine using brass would be a simular process.  First you draw a 
pattern on paper, then trace it on the inlay material. 2nd, cut the inlay piece
out with dremal tool, files, sandpaper, etc.  3rd, tack glue inlay on the wood
with white glue.  4th, scribe around the inlay piece with a fine scribe or a 
needle. 5th, carefully remove the inlay piece. 6th, route out the area scribed
with a dremel tool with router base or cut it out with chisels and x-acto knives.
Then just white glue inlay piece in the recess and clamp with a wooden block and
waxed paper.  You can then scrape or sand the area flush.  If you happen to have 
a few gaps, just mix some sawdust from the base wood with a little white glue and
fill the gaps and sand again.  It's best of course to keep the filling down to a
minimum for a truly professional look.

Have fun
Mike Plummer


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Reasons for owning a planer (was Re: Red Oak in Bulk)
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 22:26:11 GMT

John O'Brien (x37279) writes
> In article <1992Oct8.173813.13231@dale.ksc.nasa.gov>,  
bsloan@dale.ksc.nasa.gov (bill sloan) writes:
> |> In article <08OCT92.09394003.0029.MUSIC@SJUMUSIC>,         ZGDSHSE  
<ZGDSHSE@SJUMUSIC.BITNET> writes:
> |> > I am trying to justify buying a planer by purchasing wood that
> |> > is dried, but not finished on any side
> 
> There needs to be other reasons, for me at least, to purchase a planer
> other than trying to save money.

Here's a half dozen reasons:

1) You get a better finish than most yard-planed boards have.

2) You want a thickness other than what 4/4, 5/4, 6/4, 8/4 lumber is
   planed to (4/4 is usually 13/16", for instance). Not only can you
   make 5/8" thick wood, you can sometimes end up with a 7/8" thick
   piece from rough 4/4 stock.

3) You want matching pieces to be exactly the same thickness (often
   you'll find that different boards, even from the same yard, have
   thicknesses that differ a bit).

4) You do resawing.

5) You want really straight boards (and you also have a jointer).
   I've found that pre-planed lumber is often not very flat. I don't
   know the reasons for this, but I'd guess:
	a) Yards don't face joint before they thickness plane.
	b) Yards plane before the wood has completely dried.
	c) The yard-planed lumber is stacked poorly and/or in an
           environment where the humidity varies.

6) You do enough woodworking to make it cost-effective, even at a savings
   of only $0.10-$0.20/linear foot.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: rich@theophilus.msfc.nasa.gov (Rich Krum)
Subject: Re: Table saw blade guard usage
Reply-To: rich@theophilus.msfc.nasa.gov
Organization: Boeing Computer Support Services
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 22:16:06 GMT

Amen Guards!

Also--keep the casual observers out of the shop--I managed to richocet a LARGE
piece of plastic tubing into the forehead of a friend of mine--he was the Macho type
that thought he could outrun the flying chunks--

Launched the whole thing with a 10" radial arm saw--with ALL the guards in place.
(Those days, you hadda buy the guard separately--I installed that stuff before
I even turned the saw on.  Pieces still fly occasionally, especially on mitre cuts.

Made a neat scar--thank god he had a heard head--

--rich
---
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
"My opinions are my own, and my employer (Boeing Computer Support Services)
 denies any responsibility for me, all opinions in general, and anything 
 I may say, do, or be otherwise associated with outside of work for them.
 -- Use at your own risk, your mileage may vary, no news is good news."

 E-MAIL REPLY TO:  rich@troll1.msfc.nasa.gov     PLEASE KEEP IT "G" RATED
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: apoyner@as.arizona.edu (Tony Poyner)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta contractor's saw
Date: 8 Oct 92 17:33:05 GMT
Reply-To: apoyner@as.arizona.edu
Organization: MMT Observatory, Univ.of Arizona

In article 12242@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com, billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson) writes:
>mfb@metropolis.super.org (Michael F. Bridgland) writes:
>: .....
>: blade is not parallel to the slots. Casual measurement reveals a
>: difference of several thousandths of an inch (perhaps as much as
>: .01'', but I haven't measured carefully yet) between the blade-to-slot
>: distances at the front and back of the blade.
>
>I doubt seriously if you need better alignment that with .01". It
>certainly would be a matter of trial and error to do much better.
>
I disagree.  It took me several iterations to get mine aligned to 0.001
to 0.002", but I certainly was not satisfied with the 0.008 or so that
it came with.

I found that loosening the 4 nuts, then snugging them up again until the
assembly would just move when I tapped it with a mallet was the best way.
The less you have to tighten the nuts after alignment, the less chance it
has to move on you.

---
Tony Poyner                               apoyner@as.arizona.edu
Multiple Mirror Telescope Observatory     Tel   (602) 621-5185
Univ. of Arizona, Tucson, AZ 85721        Fax   (602) 670-5740
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: FG0009@maccvm.corp.mot.com (Alan Taylor)
Subject: Re: nailing w/o splitting
Organization: Motorola
Date: 15 Oct 1992 07:16:45 CDT


    In the U.K. carpenters used to use special 'CUT NAILS' for fixing
floorboards. The nails looked as if they had been stamped out of
sheet iron, and had a cross section like this:

           .....
           |  _|
           | |
           | |       The view from above was rectangular
           | |       and the shaft was tapered, which I can't show
           | |       these crude graphics.
           | |       The end was flat.
           | |
           | |
           |_|

An old carpenter I used to work with would sometimes find similar nails
on renovation work we would be doing on an old house,
and would show them to me saying they were blacksmith made nails,
so I guess the idea's been around a long time.

The nails have a flat 'point', in fact no point at all, and punch their
way through the wood. The four edges being sharp probably helped as well
in cutting the fibres instead of pushing them apart.


I think oval section nails have taken the place of these cut nails
in the modern carpenter's nail bag, at least that's what we used
when fixing or refixing floorboarding.

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: "craig treleaven" <craig.treleaven@canrem.com>
Subject: sawdust & glue
Reply-To: "craig treleaven" <craig.treleaven@canrem.com>
Organization: Canada Remote Systems
Distribution: rec
Date: 12 Oct 92 21:11:24 EST

UN:

   More than once, I've heard people mention the wonders of sawdust and
glue in patching small holes and gouges.  But I don't know anything else
about it.

   What proportions of sawdust and glue?  Mostly sawdust with just
enough glue to hold it together sounds plausible.

   What kind of glue?  Yellow, white or something special?  If I want to
stain the piece afterwards, does it make a difference?

   Any tips on application?

   Thanks in advance.

Craig Treleaven
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: gabek@univel.com
Subject: mail order suppliers
Organization: univel (a partnership of Novell and USL)
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 14:48:25 GMT

 Hi folks:

I am wondering if someone could be so kind as to give me a recommedation on where I 
might order a nail gun (Senco probably). I had the number of a place that sold both
new and reconditioned tools but have since lost it. Also any recommendations on 
compressors? 

Thanks,
	Gabe
From: tennis@ziff.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Followup to Recommendation
Date: 14 Oct 92 01:05:19 EDT
Distribution: na
Organization: Ziff-Davis, Medford MA

In article <9OCT199210570085@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov>, kimnach@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov (GREG KIMNACH) writes:
> Based on the net discussions, I think it is a good idea to stay away from 
> Grizzly's bandsaws.  However, because I own a Grizzly shaper, jointer, and
> dust collector, I can recommend these units.  I can also recommend the 15" 
> planer which I bought based on a friend's recommendation.
> 
> Now a question: I like the idea of the tilting head design of the Craftsman 
> bandsaws (seems much safer).  What's the net concensus on these?

I own a Sears tilting head bandsaw.  It is the expensive model with the
digital readout.

People, this saw BLOWS.  Hard to adjust, can't make it cut straight,
aluminum table...Sheet metal stand.  Top is so boxy there is no where to
put a clamp on it.

My advice - buy a Delta...Or similar quality...

Tony



> 
> Greg
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
>                          ED-Beta: Simply THE BEST!
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: M19120@mwvm.mitre.org
Subject: Re: INCA Model 340
Organization: The MITRE Corporation, McLean VA 22102
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 12:47:27 GMT

In article <1992Oct7.182858.17159@Arco.COM>
dbsjwb@Edm.Arco.COM (James Bielak) writes:
 
>
>
>Moving on from the Grizzley bandsaw, does anyone have experience with
>the INCA Model 340? I have come across a number of ads from Garrett Wade
>which list the INCA along with a bunch of misc. goodies for $695.00.
>
I've had an Inca 340 for about a year.
 
>My questions include:
>
>1) What is the maximum stock thickness?
 
The maximum stock thickness is about 6 inches
 
>2) Does the 3/4 direct-drive have enough power to resaw the maximum
 
Yes, the machine is well designed and quite powerful.
 
>3) Does the light weight (70 lbs) pose any problems? which could not
>   be addressed by mounting on a heavy base?
 
The light weight doesn,t pose any problems. GW includes plans for a base
or you can purchase the Inca wooden base.
 
>4) How difficult is it to obtain the proper size blade on the street?
>   Is is some metric (i.e. oddball inch) size that is obtainable only
>   through mail-order or specialty-specialty-if-you're-lucky shops?
>
 
I've not had any trouble obtaining blades.  The prices are comparable to
blades sold for Delta etc.
 
>I've heard that the INCA is "like butter", and consequently I would
>like to know if the smallish size of the 340, as well as any metric-
>type difficulties present themselves as drawbacks. If there is nothing
>but praise, I think I'm willing to be convinced that the 10 1/2 inch
>throat can be acceptable, as opposed to a 16-incher. The 3/4 hp is
>also a concern in resawing thick stock.
>
 
The Inca 340 Bandsaw is a high quality  tool that I'm very pleased
with.     (I've recently obtained an Inca Planer/Joiner) The
smallish size can be an advantage if you can use some portability.
If you need to resaw 10 " boards you will need a larger saw.  The
Inca 340  is not expandable.  I use it for general purpose work
small furniture making etc. and have not required a larger bandsaw.
I believe that in selecting a bandsaw the adjustability of the
blade guides and thrust bearings is an important charateristic to
evaluate.  Both the Inca and the Delta 14 inch do well in this area.
If you decide to buy the Inca purchase the microadjuster for the fence.
This is an excellent option and helps the saw perform like "butter".
 
>
From: greenfie@vtserf.cc.vt.edu (Steve Greenfield)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Air Compressor Questions
Date: 12 Oct 92 12:58:37 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Virginia Tech, Blacksburg, VA

I just bought a Sears/Craftsman air compressor that was 3.5 HP and
had a 25 gallon tank that was rated at 125 PSI.  I think it came
with a 15ft hose which was 1/4" and rated at 200psi, I believe.  I
have never used a compressor before and I have a few questions and
concerns.
 
I am pretty excited about my purchase but I am confused about sizes
of hoses, fittings and tools.  The literature that came with the
compressor does not go into details about what size hoses, fittings
and tools that can or cannot be used, other than the SCFM ratings.
I have a Harbor Freight catalog and all the pneumatic tool ads say
1/4" NPT (?), 3/8" hose size along with the PSI and CFM ratings.
The SEARS tool catalog does not say anything about the NPT and hose
size!  Does anyone know if the tools from Harbor Freight will work
with my new compressor?  Do I need to order fittings and hoses of a
different size?  My guess is that these compressors and tools will
work together in most instances but I have nothing to base this on!
 
The compressor literature did say that you should not use an extension
cord but to use more air hose instead.  I know I need more than 15ft
of hose but I don't know what kind to get!  Any suggestions?  To make
things easier, I would think that swivel connectors and quick coupler
sets would be an advantage.  Any suggestions with this as well?
 
Thanks for any and all help!
 
 
 
Stephen L. Greenfield                     Bitnet:   FEATS@VTVM1
Virginia Polytechnic Institute   ,/\      Internet: feats@vtvm1.cc.vt.edu
Blacksburg, Virginia           ,/   `\/`'\
                           ,/\/          /
                         ,/             <_          ._.
                        /                 `\       / /
             ,/\_     _/'                   `-`-\  |/
          ,/'    `_'_'  *  Blacksburg          \_> '
       ,/'                                    \__>_/\
      +----------------------------------------------+
From: david@talgras.UUCP (David Hoopes)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Thank you for your support (Was: How do I bend an oak 4x4?)
Date: 7 Oct 92 12:40:52 GMT
Reply-To: david@talgras.UUCP (David Hoopes)
Organization: Tallgrass Technologies Inc.

In article <dnsurber.718381623@node_26400> dnsurber@lescsse.jsc.nasa.gov (Douglas N. Surber) writes:
>Thanks for all of the suggestions.
>

[Lots of stuff deleted about bending a oak 4x4]

>
>Appearantly boat builders bend pieces of this size on occasion so that
>is still a possibility.  

There is a museum here in Kansas City that contains the remains of a
cival war era river steam boat that sank near here.  They have part
of the stern on the ship on display.  The skeleton of the boat is made
of 8 in. oak timbers that are bent to the shape of the boat.  I would
really like to see that being done.


-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------
David Hoopes                              Tallgrass Technologies Inc. 
david@tallgrass.COM                       11100 W 82nd St.          
Voice: (913) 492-6002 x323                Lenexa, Ks  66214
From: ron@topaz.bds.com (Ron Natalie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Notching 2x4's
Date: 11 Oct 1992 17:00:45 GMT
Organization: BDS Systems
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: topaz.bds.com

I've done the 2x4 and 4x4 dado with the circular saw on the swingset
I just built.  It works really well.  I cut several kerfs with the
saw and then wham them with the back of the hatchet, I then use the
hatchet blade to get rid of the rough stuff (hey, I'm beginning to
feel like Roy Underhill here, but he wouldn't have started with the
saw).  I had my 2" chisel out, too, but got good enough smoothing with
the hatchet that I stopped bothering with it.

-Ron

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stevep@lugh.se.hou.compaq.com (Steve Pinn)
Subject: Re: Dado Blades?
Organization: Compaq Computer Corporation
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 14:03:25 GMT

In article <5600041@hpcndsst.CND.HP.COM>, ges@hpcndsst.CND.HP.COM (~Gary Stearns) writes:
|> Does anyone have the Excalibur 24 tooth 2-blade wobble dado?  
|> Do you like it?
|> 
|> I'm trying to decide between this blade or spending a little more (~30%)
|> for a stacking set.  Thanks for any personal experiences.
|> 
|> 
|>


Gary, I have the Excalibur as well as a Systamtic Fine stacking set.  There is no comparison the stacking set gives you a significantly better result, but with the price difference one would expect that.  The Excalibur is OK for hogging away wood where the finish of the resultant dado is not that important or when you are willing to go back and finish the dado with a chisel.

One thing you did not mention and that is what type of saw will you be using - radial or table?

For a table saw the next time I buy a dado set I will probably buy the Forrest or the Systematic Super Fine.  Both these units use chippers with 4 teeth and I believe that the cut is smoother.

For a radial arm saw I would buy the Freud, mostly for their anti-kickback design.  I don't know if you have ever used a dado cutter in an RA saw but there is a terrible tendancy for the saw to want to walk (run) into the wood taking more and more aggressive cuts.  The Freud design (perhaps cut limiting as opposed to anti-kickback) is supposed to prevent this.

Hope it helps - Steve
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: doshay@ursa.arc.nasa.gov (David Doshay)
Subject: Re: Reasons for owning a planer (was Re: Red Oak in Bulk)
Organization: NASA-Ames Biocomputation Center
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 23:52:14 GMT

In article <1992Oct9.222611.10752@adobe.com>, bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds) writes:
|> John O'Brien (x37279) writes
|> > In article <1992Oct8.173813.13231@dale.ksc.nasa.gov>,  
|> bsloan@dale.ksc.nasa.gov (bill sloan) writes:
|> > |> In article <08OCT92.09394003.0029.MUSIC@SJUMUSIC>,         ZGDSHSE  
|> <ZGDSHSE@SJUMUSIC.BITNET> writes:
|> > |> > I am trying to justify buying a planer by purchasing wood that
|> > |> > is dried, but not finished on any side
|> > 
|> > There needs to be other reasons, for me at least, to purchase a planer
|> > other than trying to save money.
|> 
|> Here's a half dozen reasons:
|>   ...

Bennett left off the reason thickness planers are usually purchased:

	it is one neat tool to have out in the shop.

David		doshay@soma.arc.nasa.gov

The thought police insist I tell you:
my thoughts, not NASA's
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Wed, 7 Oct 1992 12:45:00 EDT
From:         DAVID FARR <dfarr@ASRR.ARSUSDA.GOV>
Subject:      Delta contractor's saw

I asked Delta about the alignment of the slots with the blade.  This is
a factory setting.  If the saw does not meet the manufactures
specifications then you will have to return saw to Delta for realignment.

Dave Farr    DFARR@ASRR.ARSUSDA.GOV    301-5045274