HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: TECHVSH@admin.uh.edu (Vickie S. Hyland)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Beginner seeking lots of advice
Date: 12 Dec 1992 22:11:58 GMT
Organization: University of Houston Central Computing Services
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: uhad4.admin.uh.edu
X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.20

In <1992Dec12.210043.16794@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu writes:

> Welcome!  Did you fill out the survey? <G>

No, where is it?

> How did you cycle the tank without fish in it?

Perhaps I used the wrong phrase.  I set up the tank, planted plants, and 
ran the powerhead and heater.  It took 3 weeks to lower nitrite levels to 
zero.

> What other water tests have you run?

I did ammonia (zero), nitrite (<0,1mg/l), nitrate (12.5mg/l), pH (7.0) 
tests, using Tetra test kits.  This is the results of the tank tests.
All test results are "excellent for fishes" except nitrates, which 
says "high; good condition for fishes"

> What kind of levels of ammonia and nitrite are in your tap water?
> The bacteria in time would correct the levels, but again if you really
> have high levels the varience stresses the fish.

The tap water tested ammonia (0.25mg/l), "critical for fish if permanent; 
slight disturbance of nitrification"; nitrite (0,1mg/l), "good"; 
nitrate (0); pH (8.5).  So, how do I correct the tap water before 
adding it to the tank, the ammonia and nitrites that is.

> Please read the FAQ.  Personally I wouldn't be without my Python
> for water changes, but if you just have one small tank you may
> do just find with manual suction and a bucket.

I read the FAQ a few weeks ago, my newsreader has purged it.  Where can I
get it from?  What is a Python?  Since I can't use tap water directly due
to chlorine (ergo the Zip drops) could I still use a Python?

Thanks for your information.


+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
|Vickie Hyland                        Phone:    (713) 743-1465             |
|Central Computing Services           Internet: HYLAND@UH.EDU              |
|University of Houston                FAX:      (713) 743-1542             |
|Houston, Texas                                                            |
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
From: patbob@sequent.com (Patrick White)
Subject: Re: Blue-green 'algae' are DEAD!
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems Inc.
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 92 19:09:29 GMT

In article <1992Dec16.215206.10496@bagend.uucp> jan@bagend.uucp (Jan Isley) writes:
>Don't believe me.  Dose an established, populated salt water tank
>with Maracyn as the instructions recommend and you will probably
>...

	I though SW and FW tanks had different kinds of bacteria that provided
the biofilter.  Anyone know if this is so and whether they are gram positive or
negative?  (I'm thinking that SW & FW biofilters may have different gram
ratings.. and therefore one be killed by Maracyn while the other isn't.. anyone
out there who knows more than I do about this stuff care to comment?).

	I also wonder how old the antibiotics.  A recent scam on TV mentioned
something about pharmacies selling out of date drugs and how they may have
turned into something relatively toxic.. something might have happened to the
petshop drugs.

-- 
Pat White (patbob@sequent.com, work: (503) 578-3463)
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:9522 sci.aquaria:1782 alt.aquaria:6227
From: jwsteph@eng.clemson.edu (john stephens)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Auto-feeding [M]
Date: 16 Dec 92 16:46:47 GMT
Article-I.D.: hubcap.1992Dec16.164647.439
Organization: Clemson University


I have an automatic feeder which utilizes 28 seperate compartments.  The feeding cycle
is programmed to "dump" once each day.  

The questions I have are about the types of food which I can use.

Right now, I have 5 fish

1 porcupine puffer
1 long-nose butterfly
3 green chromis

I have been hand feeding tetraflakes and frozen brine shrimp on alternate days.  The
puffer will only each food that sinks below the surface.

1.) Is it safe to leave the frozen shrimp in the feeder for up to 2 weeks?

2.) If spoilage is a problem, what other types of food would be appropriate?

thanks!!
From: "jeffrey silverstein" <jeffrey.silverstein@execnet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: airs pumps for ozone
Date: 18 Dec 92 17:28:42 EST
Reply-To: "jeffrey silverstein" <jeffrey.silverstein@execnet.com>
Distribution: rec
Organization: Executive Networks Information

I am interested in adding an ozone generator to my foam fractionator
(protein skimmer).  The air pump I'm using came with an enclosed note
stating that it is not to be used with ozone as it will rot the rubber.
The question is, does anyone have any experience or know of an ozone
compatibile air pump which will put out 5 psi and withstand the back
pressure of a venturi based foam fractionator?

Jeffrey.Silverstein@execnet.com
--
Executive Network Information System  (914) 667-4567
International ILink Host
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 15:07:08 EST
From: teri <TLD115@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Goldfish
Distribution: world
 <liuplvINN5k1@exodus.Eng.Sun.COM>

Someone asked what you could keep in a cold water aquarium with goldfish.
  (i'm not used to this computer, and couldnt get anything to copy)

My temp never drops below 70 or so, and never goes over 80 or so.  I have a
pleco, which is growing well (make sure you feed them, or they will suck on the
slime coat on the goldfish), a cory cat, who is also doing well, and a tricolor
 shark  (i think, it's orange-red with darker fins)(someone gave it to me).

All are doing well in the temp i have the tank, i feed wardleys Pond Ten, and
shrimp pellets. and veggies for the pleco  (which the goldfish think i put in
for them to play with)

I have had these fish for at least a year along with my comets and veiltails.

teri
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: srrapp@bb1t.monsanto.com
Subject: Re: Are W/D trickle filters worth it?
Organization: Monsanto Company, St. Louis, MO
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 20:04:15 GMT

In article <1992Dec11.013622.12909@bsu-ucs>, 01mbmccabe@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu writes:
> Where does one get mechanical filtration when using a trickle W/D filter?  Does
> one have to spent the exhorbitant amount of money for this thing, and STILL
> have to spen more money for a Whisper power filter too?!?  And whay, exactly,
> does everyone have to spend the bucks/go through the hassle to get a W/D filter
> anyway?  Surely theres a better way...no?
> 
 > 			-Matt
The real benefit of a properly designed trickle filter (W/D) is an increase 
gas exchange, an increase in dissolved oxygen, and if the proper media is 
used (inert balls, tripacks, cubes) there is minimal trapping and accumulation
of detritus in the system.  Biological media such as DLS and sponges,
although having a lot of surface area, will inevitably become dirty
and clogged and, since they are THE biological filter, cannot be totally 
cleaned or removed without their filter bed being destroyed.In any type of
W/D system a properly maintained foam,floss or DLS prefilter serves as 
the mechanical filter.  These should be thoroughly cleaned 1x/week.  In
addition some hobbyist do add an external canister filter to perform
mechanical filtration.  To minimize growth of undesirable microalgaes in 
either marine or freshwater tanks the water must be kept nutrient poor, a 
situation which can be difficult to attain with traditional undergravel
filtration as large of amounts of debris accumulate in the gravel bed.  In
marine reef systems, this nutrient poor water condition is especially critical
if you are to control microalgaes and allow for the growth of many sensitive
invertebrates.  Steve

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Subject: Re: [F] How to get rid of snails?
Keywords: snails fresh help
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 10:46:36 GMT

In article <1992Dec17.180301.25733@cbnewsh.cb.att.com> shine@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (stephen.c.shine) writes:

Steve, you have forgotten the most important source of all: Marian Stump of
the "Splashing Around With Sally" infamy.  According to her, bleach is the
best and easiest way to kill a spawn of oscars.
-- 
Oleg Kiselev at home			...use the header to find the path
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: 01mbmccabe@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: A few Cichlid ?'s
Date: 11 Dec 92 22:03:27 GMT
Organization: Ball State University, Muncie, In - Univ. Computing Svc's

> 1. I'm planning on buying a book on African Cichlids with some Christmas
> money, any suggestions? 
> 2. What other types of fish are compatible with Africans? (algae eaters)
> 3. What type of rock is best for building structures? (caves) and is
> there a cheaper place than a pet store to get it?

Ditto...If anyone is planning on E-mailing, I'd like a copy of the same info. 
:)  Thinking of starting a tank for L tetrocephalus sometin`me later this year,
so.....   any info appreciated!

			-Matt
From: tes0@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (THOMAS EDWIN SCHMIDLIN)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [F] A couple of things......
Date: 15 Dec 92 14:52:30 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

In article <Bz9oJM.110@mentor.cc.purdue.edu>, greence@sage.cc.purdue.edu (Carrie
 E. Green) writes:
>
>As an aside, I heard that Monos can be converted gradually from freshwater to
>salt without a problem. Is this true? Are there any other fish which can do
>this?
>
>     Aren't monos BRACKISH water fish, and hence need salt?
>
>                                                   ~Carrie
>

I can't speak about Monos, but there are several types of fish that can
survive in both salt and fresh water, as long as the change is done gradually.
As Carrie says, they are usually Brackish fish, and have adapted to the
varying salt levels in the wetlands on the shore lines.  There are two that
come to mind (leave it to me to forget what they're called) that we used to
catch when I was working in a biology lab that studied fish behavior.  My boss
told me that they could be put in either a fresh or salt tank, although some
salt was needed.  He prefered to put in as little salt as possible to save
money:-)
-- 

Tom Schmidlin
TES0@LEHIGH.EDU
215-758-0875
From: vpo@tos50.teradata.com
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Tips on feeding a black marble eel?
Date: 16 Dec 92 20:49:05 GMT
Reply-To: vpo@tos50.teradata.com ()
Distribution: world
Organization: ATT/NCR Teradata Business Unit
Originator: vpo@tos50


Does anyone out there have any tips on the care and feeding
of a pair of freshwater black marble eels (I don't know if
that's their "official" name) that I recently purchased?

The store recommends feeding them live worms (which I've dutifuly 
done). The problem is that most of the worms work their way into
the gravel before the eels can get a hold of them. As it so happens,
the eels are (naturally) blind, but they clearly have a very acute
sense of smell. I've spent some time watching them and they don't
seem to fish very many worms out of the gravel.

I've had some success "hand" feeding them, but I'd rather just
dump the goods in because the other inhabitants of the tank aren't
too thrilled about this hand feeding business.

Is there anything else I can feed them? Flakes are useless and
frozen bloodworms or brine shrimp are too small...

Thanks.



               *******************************************
               * Vandoren P. Outten,  Principal Engineer *
               *  NS DBS Department,  AT&T/NCR/Teradata  *
               *   Vandoren.Outten@ElSegundoCA.NCR.COM   *
               *******************************************
               * These  opinions,  while  correct,  are  *
               * not  necessarily those  of my employer. *
               *******************************************
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: vat10@diag.amdahl.com (Victor A. Tirva)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Kuhli loaches
Date: 18 Dec 92 20:10:40 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Cupertino, CA

In article <92353.124531APARKER@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>, APARKER@MAINE.MAINE.EDU writes:
|> In article <1992Dec17.220539.21757@en.ecn.purdue.edu>, wmack@en.ecn.purdue.edu
|> (William J Mack) says:
|> >
|> >A few years ago I bought a kuhli loach and it lasted only for a week.
|> >Never bought one again, but I am considering buying one and I'm wondering
|> >My tank water has a pH of 8.2 and obviously the water is hard.
|> 
|> **As far as I know, Khuli Loaches require soft, acid water (pH < 7)
|> aparker@maine.maine.edu

I have water with a pH of about 8 and kuhli loaches.  They seem hardier than
my other fish.  I had one that lived in a high pH tank for about 5 yrs until
I moved and gave it away.  The only thing about them is that they hate bright
light and need a place to hide during the day.  Mine will not come out unless
the aquarium light is off and the room light is low.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: fred@mks.com (Fred Kratky)
Subject: Re: Wet/Dry madness...
Organization: Mortice Kern Systems Inc., Waterloo, Ontario, CANADA
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 19:19:01 GMT

In article <78398@hydra.gatech.EDU> gt6441c@prism.gatech.EDU (Jon Edwards ) writes:
>IF anyone is in the process of making a W/D for themselves, here is a 
>simple mechanivcal prefilter idea that is *very* effective at removing
>solids.
>
>	    |      |                      |  
>	    |      |                     -|--- 
>	    |      |                <-    |       <- hose from overflow box   
>            |      |                     -|--- 
>Water to    |      | ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ |    
>drip tray --|-     |                      |    ~ = approximate water level    
>    <-      | ~~~~ |                      |  
>	  --|-     |     Floss, Carbon,   |  
>	    |      |     Poly-Filters,    |  
>	    |  ^   |     etc              |  
>	    |  |   |                      |    (walls made of PVC,
>	    | flow |                      |     acrylic, etc.)  
>	    |      |                      |  
>	    |      |                      |  
>	    |      |                      |  
>	    |      |EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE|    E = egg crate  
>	    |_____________________________|     
>
>
Here is an even simpler one built on top of the drip plate


		|| <- Water in
		||
	|_______________|		|
	|		|<- foam piece  |
	|===============|<- drip plate  |
	|		|		|
	|		|Bio media      |
	|		|		|
	|_______________|   |   	|
	|		    |   	=<- water out to pump
	|___________________|___________|


Works like a charm The drip plate never plugged up so the filter was
doing its job. Excellent water distribution on the drip plate...

Note:  This is on a fresh water aquarium.
-- 
     ||  // // ,'/~~\'   Fred Kratky		fred@mks.com 
    /||/// //|' `\\\     Mortice Kern Systems Inc.     (519) 884-2251
   / | //_// ||\___/     35 King St. N., Waterloo, Ont., Can. N2J 2W9
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
From: jan@bagend.uucp (Jan Isley)
Subject: (F) (M) Nitrifying Bacteria
Organization: This space for rent.
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 16:45:11 GMT

patbob@sequent.com (Patrick White) writes:
>I though SW and FW tanks had different kinds of bacteria that provided
>the biofilter.  Anyone know if this is so and whether they are gram
>positive or negative?

I think the SW and FW bacteria are the same.  My reference for that
claim is not handy at the moment, but there are a few bilogists out
there.  Steven?  Are nitrosomonas and nitrobacter (+) or (-)?  Are
they both the same, (+) or (-), that is?

There are several products on the market that contain live nitrifying
bacteria.  Some of them make no distinction on the label whether they
are for fresh or salt water.  I use hawaiian marine imports products
and have before me a package of their Nitro-Quik which is clearly
labled as a marine product.  But, they are hawaiian marine, and not
hawaiian freshwater. :)

On a marine tank, I have a canister full of eheim ceramic rings.
I frequently use some of those rings to seed a freshwater tank.
It works.  It may not be the best or fastest way, but it works for
me.  Same success using sponge filters too.
-- 
Jan Isley   jan@bagend.uucp   gatech.edu!bagend!jan   (404)434-1335
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Paul A Prior)
Subject: Re: Homemade VHO??
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 00:30:34 GMT

In article <8520005@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com> pauls@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Paul Stafford) writes:
> I've started setting up my first tank, a 40L FW, and would like the plants
> to do especially well. To facilitate that, I thought that the high output
> lights and ballast would be good. However, after surveying the costs of the
> VHO ballasts, I was aghast. I wonder if anyone has investigated building 
> their own VHO ballast system? I have access to just about any circuit 
> elements, and could build one, if I knew what the heck was in it.  Any help
> books, circuit sources etc would be much appreciated.


As far as I know, there are only 2 companies making electronic VHO ballasts
for general use right now.  Thus the plans aren't exactly easily obtainable.
Of course it may not be as hard as those of us who know absolutely nothing
about EE would think...


-- 
--------pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu----(614) 621-8240----------------
Paul A. Prior    Ban anchors, not reef tanks    Nuke Gay Whales for Jesus  
3rd year medical student		        
The Ohio State U. College of Medicine   Tobacco Kills- Please don't smoke!
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Paul A Prior)
Subject: Re: Pleco food
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1992 15:44:14 GMT

In article <65@jptcs.COM> Steve.Kilbey%bbs@jptcs.com (Steve Kilbey) writes:
>I have heard (from here) that people feed their pleco's frozen spinach. When
>I tried this, it hust floats. I believe mt pleco did eat some, however. I
>saw him nibbling on it. The other fish tried it too. I am looking for other
>methods of feeding him, or her. I have heard that cucumber and zuchinni can
>be fed to pleco's. Any other help would be appreciated.
>

My P eats tabimin on a daily basis and I cut a cucumber/zuchini up
maybe once  amonth to give to him.  I used to sink the cucumbers, but
recently I have just dropped them in, and he eats them while they float
on the top.

By the way, NEVER type the P word on the net.  It's the P curse.

-- 
--------pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu----(614) 621-8240----------------
Paul A. Prior    Ban anchors, not reef tanks    Nuke Gay Whales for Jesus  
3rd year medical student - Surgery Rotation		        
The Ohio State U. College of Medicine   Tobacco Kills- Please don't smoke!
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Subject: Re: [F] How to get rid of snails?
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 10:41:49 GMT

In article <1992Dec16.145735.22670@cbfsb.cb.att.com> jjd1@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (james.j.dutton) writes:
>Not chlorox. If you imply the city is forcefeeding chlorox into home tap
>water your batty.
 
No, of course it's not Chlorox.  The city utility would  go broke if tyhey
paid the market rate for a brand-name product.  Water supply companies 
chlorinate water by pumping chlorine gas through the water and creating a 
weak bleach solution, which kills bacteria and protozoans.  Many cities do
not stop there and pump the water full of ammonia as well, creating a
complex of clorine and ammonia recombinations known as chloramines.  Unlike
the plain chlorine, chloramines do not leave water of their own accord.

>>clown loaches), then there will be so few pond snails
>>as to be unnoticeable.  However, yes, they are ugly and
>So few as to remain unnoticable? Hah.
 
So few as to remain unnoticed by the loaches, who consider smails a
delicacy.  That's few enough to be of no threat to plants.

>Your telling me your an experienced aquarists and your actually being one 
>may be two different things. I say dumping bleach in an aquarium does not
>sound like a good idea.

That depends on what you have in the aquarium at the time.  I try to
bleach the tanks and the gravel before I reuse them for new species,
and I bleach the filter casings and reusable media if the tank shows
signs of being contaminated.  Sometimes I use hydrogen peroxide
instead, but the bleach is every bit as effective and is considerably
cheaper when bought in bulk.

One of these days I will also adopt the practice of the better fish
wholesalers who keep jars of weak bleach solution conveniently under
hand to rinse their hands and nets in this stuff between sticking them
in different tanks.

>>didn't even use dechlorinator after bleaching my tank - I just rinsed.  
>Oh then it must be good for the fish.

If he rinsed well enough (i.e. there is no bleach smell), the fish will have
not been affected.
-- 
Oleg Kiselev at home			...use the header to find the path
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: maxfield@athena.cs.uga.edu (Joan C. Maxfield)
Subject: Re: vacation decision
Organization: University of Georgia, Athens
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 06:24:37 GMT


Talk with your RA or whoever is in charge of your dorm if you haven't
already.  When I lived in the dorms 'everything must be turned off and
unplugged' did not apply to refrigerators and fishtanks.  Even if it
does you may be able to beg really nicely and let yours be an
exception.

Good luck,

Joan
-- 
J. C. Maxfield				maxfield@athena.cs.uga.edu
DISCLAIMER:  I don't speak for the University, but they often speak for me!
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: ffujita@s.psych.uiuc.edu (Frank Fujita)
Subject: Re: [F] How to get rid of snails?
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 00:15:31 GMT

ghart@ems.cdc.com (Geoffrey Hart) writes:
>So, I would really recommend get a few clown loaches (I think three is the
>minimum, because they really like to chum around with each other)

I only have one in my 29gal cardnal tetra tank, and it has decimated my
snail population.  Am I being terrible by keeping this loach by itself
-- they are quite expensive as freshwater fish go.

Frank
From: assana@polkadot.Eng.Sun.COM (assana)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Monos ?
Date: 11 Dec 1992 23:55:32 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc., Mountain View, CA
NNTP-Posting-Host: polkadot

In article <1992Dec10.124134.3783@afit.af.mil> jcardow@afit.af.mil (James E. Cardow) writes:

>So, I went out and found some monos, planning on buying several.  The
>"local fish guy" told me that that wasn't a good idea.  He claims that
>monos should either be alone or in odd numbered groupings?  I bought
                        ~~~~~
>one to think over this comment that I had never heard and then started
>seeing posts that indicate other people keep just one?

>Any recommendations on keeping monos, does the odd number theory make
>sense?  How about scats and puffers?  I know puffers tend to be
>agressive, are they too agressive for the monos?  Suggestions?

I have a group of 5 monos (actually 4 till last night that I bought yet
another one). Monos school losely. I had a single mono first for a few 
weeks, and he seemed to feel lonely: lonely enough to school with the 
tetras! It wasn't till after I got the other 3 that I noticed how concious 
they are of their own kind. DENINITLY don't get just one.

As of odd-numbered groups, I didn't notice any difficulty when they
were 4...and now that they are 5, I still don't notice any change!

Good luck!
--
         ^-^
        /o o\
       ===^===   assana@polkadot.eng.sun.com
          -   
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria