HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.BITNET (Jeff Roberts)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Sources for Good Quality Woodwork to Sell
Date: 10 Nov 92 16:14:44 GMT
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU

On Mon, 9 Nov 1992 17:06:44 -0600 Craig Marcus said:
>Fellow netters.  I would like to open up
>a small shop which would display and sell
>good quality solid hardwood furniture made by
>various craftsmen around the country.
>
>What do you think the best way is to go about
>finding folks who may have high quality
>tables, chairs, etc to sell?
>
>An extension arm of the Small Business Administration is the Small Business
 Development Center.  It is a FREE service offered to those who have the
 entrepreneurial bug.  The idea behind "free" is that they would rather invest
 time in building a good plan rather than bail you out of a not-so-good plan.
 They offer everything from reviewing you business plan and helping with
 finance (if it's workable) to getting you in contact with people who are in
 your line of business, the proverbial "network".  Call the SBA and pose this
 question to them, they should be able to point you in the right direction.
 The SBDC will also be glad to punch holes in your business plan...no charge,
 a bruised ego is a lot better than going out of business.

 I'd like to add another problem to the many you will have.  First of all
 people who own retail shops are flakes.  I sell my stuff in the Dallas area
 to people who have showrooms.  Now keep in mind that I can drive to and from
 their shop anytime I want and either drop off a piece of pick one up that
 isn't selling.  You can almost never get hold of them by phone, you can't get
 them to remember ANYTHING (drop off/pick up, get paid, etc.).  Note that this
 is in my own back yard.

 A new business such as yours, vulnerable to every goblin that eats new
 businesses for breakfast, half way across the country would make me VERY
 nervous about sending anything but the smallest piece of furniture to you.
 I would have to build a marginal piece of furniture with a low investment
 in time and materials in order to make the risk acceptable.  I would already
 know that if you went out of business I would never see that piece again and
 would write it off as a loss.

 Now, a true entepreneur is going to look at what I just wrote and say
 boloney!  I can overcome any obstacle, can sell anything to anybody
 especially if they don't need it and make profit at the same time, Ha, clown!

 If you said "Boloney", go for it, if you didn't, rethink your plan......

Jeff Roberts JROBERTS@UTDALLAS
From: paul.burnett@pcs.sj.ca.us (Paul Burnett) 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Lathe recommendations?
Date: 11 Nov 92 18:33:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: PCS-BBS - San Jose, CA - 408-270-4085
Reply-To: paul.burnett@pcs.sj.ca.us (Paul Burnett) 

TO: daniel@redwood.ppc.ubc.ca (Daniel Ouellet)


DO>If your budget for a lathe is limited, have you thought of buying a used one
  >I check the adds regularly and see a lot of good old (and not so old) woodwo
  >machinery for sale at very reasonable prices.

I have talked to several wood bowl turners who also keep an eye out for
old _metalworking_ lathes.  Some can be bought for a song - they are no
longer accurate enough for a machine shop, but plenty good enough for
bowl work...and the old ones are _heavy_, which helps.  Renovating them
can give you a pretty good lathe.  This is all hearsay, of course....
---
 . QMPro 1.0 07-2042 . ...from San Jose, CA
                                                                     
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: gcohen@mailer.cc.fsu.edu (Gregory Cohen)
Subject: For Sale
Organization: Florida State University
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 92 06:13:29 GMT


I have something strange for sale, and I can't think of a better place to 
post this for sale notice. 

I have a small industrial rotation molder.  This is a plastic thermo-forming
machine.  I got it for a project that never came to pass.  If anyone is interested please E-mail me.  Thank you.


Gregory Cohen
gcohen@mailer.acns.fsu.edu
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Beware of the Fnord or it will eat you.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From: paul.burnett@pcs.sj.ca.us (Paul Burnett)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Planer Recommendation
Date: 2 Nov 92 17:14:00 GMT
Reply-To: paul.burnett@pcs.sj.ca.us (Paul Burnett)
Organization: PCS-BBS - San Jose, CA - 408-270-4085

TO: kipper@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Kip Ingram)

KI>I'm looking for information on woodworking with hand tools

It may be a bit far, but when you get the chance, go to Colonial
Williamsburg in Virginia.  I spent several hours (coulda been
days) there talking to the authentic 1700's carpenter.  Surely,
there are other colonial-era displays you could visit - I don't
know about you, but no book or magazine can touch an hour or two
watching and talking to somebody who's doing it.
---
 . EZ 1.39 . Entered Monday, 11/02/92,  5:17 pm, San Jose, CA
                                                                                                  
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jkerby@relay.nswc.navy.mil (Fred Kerby - K31)
Subject: Empress (Paulownia) for sale
Organization: NAVAL SURFACE WARFARE CENTER
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 20:52:30 GMT

I have a friend who has some empress (paulownia) logs that he wishes to
sell.  He would like to deal directly with an exporter and avoid the 
middle man.  Does any one know of a buyer in the Baltimore or Philadelphia
area?  He does not have easy access to news but does have access to email.
His address is lstout@relay.nswc.navy.mil.  Please email responses to him
at that address thanks.

Fred K.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: warren@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (warren.a.montgomery)
Subject: Sharpening and using scrapers
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 14:35:34 GMT

It's woodworking season again in Illinois (too cold and wet for
rec.sport.golf and too warm for rec.sport.skiing), and after
spending a rainy afternoon hacking away with that scraper I bought
years ago and never had much luck with, I finally got it sharp
enough to take some shavings off a piece of scrap.  It was an
exciting moment as I contemplated woodworking without clouds of
dust, screaming sanders, and hours of drudgery just to produce a
reasonably smooth surface, but I as I applied my new found tool to
a small project, I realized I really didn't have a good feeling
for what I could expect my scraper to really do.  In the end, I
reverted to my belt sander for the roughest stuff (removing mill
marks and squaring up finger joints), and used the scraper to
produce a smooth finish.  It worked well, but I spent a lot of
time fooling around with the thing wondering if it would work any
better if I just got it a little better sharpened and whether I
could get more out of it, leaving me with the following questions:

How much should I realistically expect a scraper to be able to
do?  Should I expect it to smooth fairly rough stuff?  How smooth
a surface will it produce when properly treated and used?  Should
I have multiple scrapers sharpened differently for rough and
find work?  Will it do anything productive on end grain?  

I used the "file and burnish" technique to sharpen mine with
moderate success, but the process is still very much trial and
error to me.  Is it worth investing in a burnishing gadget?

Any good references on the use and care of scrapers?

-- 

	Warren Montgomery
	att!iexist!warren
From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Router Table Inquiries
Date: 12 Nov 92 01:00:09 GMT
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server

sgs8r@kelvin.seas.Virginia.EDU (Steve Strickland, sgs8r@virginia.edu) writes:
>In article <WOODWORK%92110515034951@IPFWVM.BITNET> Jim Morgan <JMORGAN@BROWNVM.BITNET> writes:
>>The great advantage of plunge routers is that you can safely and easily
>>begin and end cuts in the middles of boards - e.g., fully housed
>>mortises.  Most of the time, though, I have my plunge router mounted in
>>my router table, where the plunge feature really goes to waste.  I've
>>been thinking about constructing a treadle mechanism that would allow me
>>to raise the bit up into a board on the table.  This would have to have
>>some sort of rachet to lock the bit at full height, as well as a
>>provision for releasing the rachet so that the bit could be lowered at
>>the end of the cut.  Has anyone out there built anything like this?  Any
>>ideas?
>
>Sounds like a pin router (or does the pin router have the router on top?). In
>any case, theres a pin on the other face which can ride in a template to do
>fast, repeatable routing. Usually they have a foot pedal (air driven) which
>plunges the router. They're pretty nice, but expensive.

   No, I don't think so.  A pin router has a purpose in allowing you to follow
   a template.

   He is simply talking about an easier method of raising and lowering the
   height of the router bit.   Doesn't have anything to do with pin routers.
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: dust collector or bomb? help
Date: 7 Nov 92 03:25:03 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <Bx9u72.L64@news.cso.uiuc.edu> jssg3464@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (John S. Schmidt) writes:
>I am building a dust collection system in my shop.  I am usine 4" PVC pipe to
>run the vaccum lines to each piece of equipment.  When I told a friend this he 
>said "You are building a bomb."  He said that the static electricity would
>build up in the tube and ignite the dust.  To avoid this he suggested running
>a bare copper wire the length of the system and connecting it to a ground.
>Is this    really a concern? If so, is the copper wire the best solution?
>Your advice is  needed.  Thankyou.

[Please learn how to use the carriage return key.  This appeared as one
long line.  You were lucky it all came through.]

It is a real concern.  While it's not that particularly likely in a shop
because the sheer volumes of dust isn't that high, there are some cases
where it could be a major hazard.  One scenario that's been suggested is
if the dust bag ever falls off the collector - *major* dust cloud.

I produced some dust explosions in high school chemistry lab.  It is no
joke.  A quarter-teaspoon of dust can propel a 1 gallon paint can through
ceiling tile (no not me, another student did that ;-).

Your collector *MUST* be grounded properly.

The book I have on the subject suggests 16ga stranded wire (often
called "antenna wire" in electronics stores) is a good type to use,
and is available relatively cheaply in 50' and 100' spools.

Stranded for flexibility - less likely to catch chips and clog the
whole thing up, plus the wire can rattle around a bit to contact
different parts of the pipe..

This is necessary even if you're using the wire-ribbed flexible tubing,
because the wire ribbing is completely insulated from the surfaces of
the pipe.

You run the wire *inside* the tubing.  Just short of each end, you drill a
small hole, and bring the end out (leaving a fair bit of extra).

Assemble the pipe *without* glue.  This is so you can take it apart
to clear clogs.  It might be a good idea to put a small amount of
vaseline on the pipe ends before assembly if you're concerned about
leaks.  Then the stranded wire is connected together outside of the pipe
with a wirenut.  The holes can be sealed with caulk.

The book also goes on to recommend that there should be a wire spiral-wound
around the outside of the pipe, and connected to the inner wires at the
connecting wirenuts.  Taped to the pipe with electrical tape.  This may
be overkill, but is probably necessary in more serious shops.  Might
be a good idea in the sections of pipe near the collector itself.

Remember also that the pipe grounding must be connected to the dust collector
itself, and the dust collector should be properly grounded to the house
wiring in order to be of much use.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
From: SCC@nervm.nerdc.ufl.edu (Scott C. Crumpton)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Delta Sawbuck Frame & Trim Saw
Date: 1 Nov 92 22:57:22 GMT
Organization: University of Florida, NERDC

I've been looking at the Delta Sawbuck Frame & Trim Saw.
 
This saw looks ideal for my needs.  It's portable and can be hung on
the garage wall for storage.  Space is a major concern here.  My
primary use will be with 1x stock up to 12" wide.  I intend to make
considerable use of the saw's ability to cut compound miters.
 
Does anyone have an opinion on this saw?  Specifically, since the
table is made of plastic, how does it hold up under use?  Does it make
accurate and repeatable cuts?  And what would be a good price to pay?
 
Thanks,
---Scott.               scc@nervm.nerdc.ufl.edu
 
 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: tpc@bnr.ca (Thomas P. Chmara)
Subject: Re: Planer Recommendation
Reply-To: tpc@bnr.ca
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 92 17:53:28 GMT

In article <623.160.uupcb@pcs.sj.ca.us>, paul.burnett@pcs.sj.ca.us (Paul Burnett)  writes:
|> 
|> It may be a bit far, but when you get the chance, go to Colonial
|> Williamsburg in Virginia.  I spent several hours (coulda been
|> days) there talking to the authentic 1700's carpenter.
				^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Must've borrowed the keys to the TARDIS :-)

	---tpc---
-- 
I am sole owner of the above opinions. These opinions are furnished without
warranty or liability expressed or implied.  Your mileage may vary.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tom Chmara, P.Eng.|  INTERNET:  tpc@x400gate.bnr.ca	|  Fone:  (613)765-2925
BNR Ltd.	  |  					|  FAX:   (613)763-2626
From: markw@hpcss01.cup.hp.com (Mark Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Circular Saw recommendations
Date: 9 Nov 92 22:42:32 GMT
Organization: Hewlett Packard, Cupertino

For around $130 at most discount places, you can get the Skil 77A, a
super reliable and accurate portable circular saw.  It is the standard
saw used by most framing carpenters (supplemented by a portable miter
saw).  A very fine tool which will last for years.  
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jwas_ss@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Jason Wasson)
Subject: Info about gov't homes (Q)
Organization: University of Rochester - Rochester, New York
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 92 22:49:27 GMT

I was wondering if anybody could explain how to find out about gov't homes
that can be bought for a dollar or more and fixed up.  They only kind of
info I've seen so far entails calling up a 900 number.

What I was hopeing for was a city agency that I could go to get a list of
home that could be bought.

If anybody could post some info or share their past experience in these
matters I would be most gratefull.

						Thanks,
						Jason  
-- 
* Jason Wasson        | "Have you been to the mountain yet?| A consultant must*
* CPU 271704          |   Have you kissed the morning dew? | learn as well as *
* Rochester, NY 14627 |  Do you live life without regret?" |    teach         *
                       jwas_ss@uhura.cc.rochester.edu
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 10 Nov 1992 07:59:19 EST
From:         ZGDSHSE <ZGDSHSE@SJUMUSIC.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Excaliber Insert

Thanks for the reply.  Actually I have bought most of the
materials to build an insert, but am interested in hearing
more of you Excaliber setup.

I am unfamiliar with the insert you mentioned.  Where can I read
about it in catalog?

I will consider buying the item from you, but need more info
before committing on it.  What is melamine?  1/2 " seems
a bit thin, but since I don't know what the material is, I may
be mistaken.

Please let me know how to further investigate as I am interested.

Thanks -

Gene Sampson
From: ramos@dptg.att.com (8522[rbb]-Rich Ramos(AH0232)HOLDMT)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: problem with planer
Date: 12 Nov 92 23:01:13 GMT
Organization: AT&T BL Middletown/Lincroft NJ USA

I don't mean to change the subject but here goes...
I ran across a used inca jointer/planer this past weekend that caught my eye.
I had seen this tool (or newer versions of it) in the Garrett Wade catalog
but had never seen one in person.  It was being sold for about $850 which
sounded like a great deal so I became suspicious.  Sure enough when I asked
for a demo, the sales guy had problems with the table height crank.
After mumbling something about how he doesn't like the machine he said it
was a 3 phase motor so I probably couldn't use it anyhow.   I continued to 
look and realized :
		1) the table was tilted to one side so the threads were
		   probably jammed.
		2) The motor indicated "1PH".  I'm pretty sure this means
		   single phase especially since there was a sinusoidal
		   symbol next to it.

So I have the following questions:
	1)  If the problem is with the threads on the height adjustment 
	    mechanism, how much would this cost to replace/repair and would 
	    it be worth the trouble (assuming this was the only thing wrong)?
	2)  Am I right about the phase indicator?

These machines (incas) are supposed to be high quality and this machine in
particular suits my need in terms of space so I might be willing to pursue 
this further.

I'd appreciate any comments and experiences.

Thanks
Rich Ramos
ramos@mtunm.att.com 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: news@walter.bellcore.com
Subject: Re: Problem with router
Reply-To: marc@bellcore.com (Marc F Pucci)
Organization: Bellcore, Morristown, NJ
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 92 16:35:33 GMT

In article <1992Nov6.193737.24501@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com> billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson) writes:
>JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.BITNET (Jeff Roberts) writes:
>
>Also, as others have posted before, make sure that the bit is not bottomed
>in the collet. Leave 1/4 inch or so for the bit to move when you tighten
>the collet collar.
>
>Bill

Whoa, 1/4 inch sounds like way too much space.  I learned to
bottom the bit, then lift it enough to keep it off the bottom
when it's tightened; about 1/16 inch.

Marc

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: Woodworking humor
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 06:02:37 GMT

poole@admin.usask.ca (Chris Poole) writes:
: |> 
: |> Every tool is a hammer - except a chisel;  it's a screwdriver.
: 
: I worked with a fellow once that believed that a hammer was to be used for
: inserting screws, the screwdriver was only there if you needed to remove them.
: 
: BTW. He never did much finishing work. ;)

Bah! If you can drive them with a hammer, you can remove them with a
ripping bar.

Bill
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: RON.SANDS@OFFICE.WANG.COM ("Ron Sands")
Subject: RE Circular Saw Recommendation
Organization: Mail to News Gateway at Wang Labs
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 19:15:28 GMT

In response to one user who is cutting large quantities of 4x8 sheets and is
looking for a better circular saw for the job.

This is good timing since a month ago I had to make a choice to replace an
aging cicular saw.  My criteria was accuracy of cut, power enough to prevent
bogging down on heavy cuts, solidly built and well thought out design.  I
compared the Skilsaw, Milwaulkee, Makita, Ryobi, Black & Decker and DeWalt.
All of these saws were in the same price range of $120 to $170 dollars US at
a local discount store by the name of Home Depot.

The choice for me was the DeWalt.  The DeWalt and a couple of the others
had a hefty aluminum base plate that provides a beautiful edge to move along
a clamped on cutting guide for 4x8 sheets or a handheld speed square for the
2x4, 2x6, etc cuts.  The depth adjustment is unique and quite well designed.
The front of the DeWalt raises and lowers in resonse to a depth adjustment
by way of loosening the front hand knob.  I found this to improve operator
control when compared to the usual rear adjustment.  The Milwaulkee had a
vertical depth adjustment but in the display model you could rock the saw back
and forth in relation to the base when set at a low to medium depth of cut.
This would seriously ruin the accuracy.  The DeWalt had a powerful 13 amp
motor and I found the bright "safety yellow" color appealing.  The attachment
of the saw to the base was the best of this whole group.  Very well built
with a ball and socket at the front providing for smooth adjustment and
zero play without the need to tighten down a wing nut or lever.

In response to your question about the 7 inch or the smaller 4 inch saw.
Unless you have reason to limit weight or operating space for your saw where
you are cutting mostly overhead, on roof, tight places, or some other
situation where the heavier, larger saw is not appropriate then you should
get the larger saw.  It will cut more accurately, last longer and transmits
less vibration to the operator.  The larger saw will also give you a greater
range of cutting depth than the smaller saw will.

Ron Sands
(The opinions here are my own)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: pngai@adobe.com (Phil Ngai)
Subject: Re: Circular Saw recommendations
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 17:39:18 GMT

In article <BxGL9M.45H@vuse.vanderbilt.edu> eap@vuse.vanderbilt.edu (Edward A. Parrish) writes:
>A recent issue (Oct or Nov) of Consumer Reports had a good
>article on circular saws. Believe it or not, the top rated
>saw was a Sears model that my local store has for $129.95.

Their top criterion seemed to be how fast the saw could cut.
I didn't see any evaluation of the quality of the cut.

-- 
My opinions are my own.
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Wed, 11 Nov 1992 20:38:14 EST
From:         ZGDSHSE <ZGDSHSE@SJUMUSIC.BITNET>
Subject:      RE: Table Saw Stand Plans

The plans are in woodsmith # 47.  It is for a saw such as the
Craftsman 10" modern variety.   You just pop off the leg set and
drop the saw onto the cabinet.  I don't know if you car recess it
or not as I don't know what you plan to do.

The number is 1-800-444-7002 and the cost is $3.50 plus shipping
and handling.

Let me know if I can help further.

Gene Sampson
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 9 Nov 1992 13:13:53 -0800
From:         RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM
Subject:      Re: Circular Saw recommendations

Since your application for the circle saw is cutting sheets of plywood,
I thought I'd mension that a recient issue of "woodsmith" (acturaly there
compaion catalog) included an add for plans and associated hardware
to build (what looked like) an very impressive pannel saw. Very much like
the ones the local hardware stores use.

If your interested I'll dig out the "catalog" and post more details.


                        Ron Tye (all opinions my own)
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Wobble type dado blade.
Date: 10 Nov 92 06:20:13 GMT
Article-I.D.: hpcvaac.1992Nov10.062013.19251
Distribution: rec.woodworking
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA

waligora@hsi.com (Robert Waligora) writes:
: A friend of mine suggested that the wobble type dado blades might ruin
: my table saw. He claims that the back and forth motion might bend the
: arbor or cause other excessive wear. Is there any truth to this?

Unless you are forcing the cut, the wobble is not going to hurt anything.
The arbor, by design, has to be built to withstand the radial and lateral
thrust loads. 

There is no way it will bend the arbor, the blade will bend before there
is any serious stress put on the arbor.

If you are still concerned, get one of the two-blade wobble dados.

Bill
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking