HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Straight Edge for Jointer Alignment
Date: 12 Nov 92 01:13:59 GMT
Organization: LLNL

In article <831.160.uupcb@pcs.sj.ca.us>, paul.burnett@pcs.sj.ca.us (Paul Burnett) writes:
> 
> TO: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
> 

> Okay, but it's certainly more than flat enough to set planer blades,
> isn't it?  Besides the wunnerful advantage you can see through it....
> 

Tony was actually trying to line up his tables, which requires a longer
span than setting knives.  As far as flat enough, it's hard to tell.  Glass
actually sags when set in one position for a long time because it's not
a crystalline solid, but an amorphous solid.  So depending upon its history,
your piece of plate may have a few 10's of 1/1000s deviation from flat over
36" or so.  Plate glass only has to look good in a window frame and there's
lots of leeway for mounting deviations.

G.


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bamford@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (harold.e.bamford)
Subject: Re: WoodWorking
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 22:16:47 GMT
Summary: Make your own blades!

In article <1992Nov4.202950.1@acad2.alaska.edu> isdhm@acad2.alaska.edu writes:
>I am stuck in a small city of 3500pop. here in Homer AK...
>I need a 70" Band Saw blade...
>ANy ideas wwhere I might order one?

I also had a recent need to get an odd-sized band saw blade.  I knew
that it was possible to buy bandsaw blade stock and cut it to size but
I was leery of trying to silver-solder the blade myself.  I was afraid
I would not be able to make a decent joint.  I was afraid the blade
would break. Etc, etc.

Well, I need not have been afraid.  I bought some 1/4" 4TPI skip-tooth
stock and a blade splicing kit.  I practiced on a a 10" piece of scrap
and the whole process, including studying the instructions, cutting the
stock, grinding the ends on the wheel, mounting in the splicer,
fluxing, ... , soldering, and cleaning up the joint was 30 minutes.
When I did it for real on a full length piece of stock, it was 20
minutes.  And I have been using this blade for weeks.

I strongly recommend doing this if you tend to use your bandsaw a lot
or if precut blades are hard to come by.

-- Harold Bamford
#include <std.disclaimers>
From: asket@acad2.alaska.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: A new toy store!
Date: 4 Nov 92 23:59:08 GMT
Organization: University of Alaska

Last weekend, Eagle Hardware opened in Anchorage.  Three acres (yes,
THREE ACRES!) of hardware, wood, and everything else a woodworker
can dream of...if they don't have it, you don't need it.  Remember
the discussion about sources for marble--well, I walked in, asked
a salesman, and new I had reached Nirvana when he asked, "What color
marble?  Sure you want marble?  We have granite, slate, composites,
do you want that with or without streaks of rose quartz?"  This may
not be a big deal to all you Lower 48'ers, but to hardware-starved
Alaskans, this is a major league improvement in our quality of life.
  
In short, for those posters who asked me to send them the results
of my marble search, this is supposed to be the biggest Eagle store
in the country (that's what they say anyway), and they have marble
from $8.99 a square foot, already cut and polished, up to polished
black granite for $65/sf.  There's an Eagle store in Seattle I believe,
so that might be the easiest.  They'll take your credit card number
and ship you whatever you want.  Maybe they only do this at the Anchorage
store, but the sales reps have business cards, and so you can work
with the same person over the life of each project--I don't have to
explain the whole thing every time I go there.  
                        Havin' loads of fun-------Karl Thoennes
From: smb@ulysses.att.com (Steven Bellovin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Circular Saw recommendations
Date: 9 Nov 92 20:51:45 GMT
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories

In article <1992Nov9.173918.26135@adobe.com>, pngai@adobe.com (Phil Ngai) writes:
> In article <BxGL9M.45H@vuse.vanderbilt.edu> eap@vuse.vanderbilt.edu (Edward A. Parrish) writes:
> >A recent issue (Oct or Nov) of Consumer Reports had a good
> >article on circular saws. Believe it or not, the top rated
> >saw was a Sears model that my local store has for $129.95.
> 
> Their top criterion seemed to be how fast the saw could cut.
> I didn't see any evaluation of the quality of the cut.

They also rated units for convenience, though I disagree with some of
their judgements -- for example, I see no point to having a depth scale
on the saw, since if depth matters I'm not going to trust it anyway...

As usual, the major benefit of Consumer Reports is not their overall
ratings, but the chart of how well each tested unit did for particular
criteria.  This report did include about a half-dozen such categories.

One of the more interesting tests they performed was to use a
dynamometer to measure the actual power generated by each unit.  They
found that the nameplate amperage rating was *not* a good predictor.
(I should go back and see if the power*cutting speed product was more
or less constant, which would be the case if we're simply talking about
gear ratio differences.)

The other unusual thing about this article, at least for Consumer
Reports, is that they did rate some professional-grade units --
Porter-Cable, Makita, etc., and not just Sears and low-end B&D.  Not
only that, as a class they preferred the heavier-duty units.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: whit@carson.u.washington.edu (John Whitmore)
Subject: Re: Straight Edge for Jointer Alignment
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 10:02:36 GMT

In article <141206@lll-winken.LLNL.GOV> gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot) writes:
>In article <1dpkacINNlie@news.aero.org>, dgolber@aero.org (Dave Golber) writes:
>> 
>> In article <697.160.uupcb@pcs.sj.ca.us> paul.burnett@pcs.sj.ca.us (Paul Burnett)  writes:

>> >Plate glass is typically quite flat, to optical tolerances....

>I don't know what somebody means by "optical tolerances" but I have yet to
>hear of anybody making precision optical components from plate glass.
>It certainly isn't flat to 1/4 wave like they need for front
>surface mirrors for the diagonal in a reflecting telescope, for instance.


	Firstly, plate glass is ground flat.  It should easily
be flat enough for 1 mil or so over a couple of feet.

	Secondly, most thick glass is NOT plate glass, it is
FLOAT glass (floated as a sheet onto liquid tin to flatten),
and this is considerably cheaper than plate glass.

	Thirdly, people ARE making precision optical components
from selected pieces of plate glass and float glass.  They have
done so for years.  One such device I am familiar with is
a reflector for energy selection of X-rays, and the flatness 
requirement is pretty close to atomic sizes for this application.

	John Whitmore
From: leut@elc11.icase.edu (Scott T. Leutenegger)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: help, glue up mistake
Date: 9 Nov 1992 17:02:58 GMT
Organization: ICASE/NASA Langley
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: elc11.icase.edu



Time to ask the net how to fix a really dumb mistake.


Concise problem statement:

  I need to take apart two tongue-groove joints that were glued up
  with elmers wood working glue.  Can I do this without destroying the
  wood and the joints?  If so, what solvent should I use?  Water?

Longer statement, more details, more rambling:

  Yesterday, I actually managed to spend 4 hours in the shop.  I had
  a great time and made the bottom for my blanket chest and glued
  up the entire thing.  
  This chest has panels of a very questionable design.  They are flat on 
  one side, and protrude beyond the frame on the other side.  
  (This was an easy way of dealing with stock of one thickness, the design is
  from one of Norms books.)  
  The neat trick I did was manage to glue up the darn thing with on of the 
  sides "inside out", this greatly detracts from the appearance of the chest.
  GRRRR!  The real bummer is I spent MANY hours on this project and hope to
  have this chest in our bedroom for a LONG time, hence I will get to look
  at that mistake for many years!

  How did I do this you ask?  Good question, my only answer is "space cadet".

  So, I desire to take this thing apart.  Below is a diagram of the joint
  as viewed from the top.  The drawing shows the parts separated, which
  is the state I wish to return them to without destroying any of the 
  frames.  I suppose as a last resort I could saw of the end frame/panel,
  chisel out the glued in tongue from each front/back frame and
  make a replacement end piece.  But I REALLY want to finish this darn
  thing.  (Besides, I may end up destroying the front/back frames
  when removing the tongue with the chisel, you never know when I may 
  go into klutz mode.)

  Can I just douse the joint with water and hope to pull it apart?
  It is glued with elmers wood-working glues which should be water
  soluble.  Would this ruin the wood?
	



  top view:

  +------------
  | +-+
  | | |   Front frame and panel
  |-+ +----------

	+-+
	| |
  +-+ +-+
  |     |
  |     |
  |     |

    end frame and panel   (needs to be flipped end to end to reverse panel)

  |     |
  |     |
  |     |
  +-+ +-+
	| |
	+-+

  |-+ +----------
  | | |   Back frame and panel
  | +-+
  +------------


This joint is about 24" long!



Any suggestions that do not involve a wood stove or chain saw would
be much appreciated.  Unless otherwise directed I will post any 
responses mailed to me if there is sufficient interest.

Thanks in advance,

---Scott
-- 
Scott T. Leutenegger                       Phone:  804-864-8003
Mail Stop 132c                             FAX:    804-864-6134
NASA Langley Research Center
Hampton, VA 23681-0001                     email:  leut@icase.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: doshay@ursa.arc.nasa.gov (David Doshay)
Subject: Re: Delta Sawbuck Frame & Trim Saw
Organization: NASA-Ames Biocomputation Center
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 17:50:04 GMT

I thought the Sawbuck looked good too, until I inspected one closely.
Look at how the saw slides on the rails. There is no way to get anything
but rough-framing type cuts from the saw.

Look at the Hitachi sliding compound miter saw instead. It is great for
construction type work, but cuts well enough to make furniture.

David		doshay@soma.arc.nasa.gov

The thought police insist I tell you:
my thoughts, not NASA's
From: jaynes@ksr.com (Steve Jaynes)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Stop me before I... (routers)
Date: 6 Nov 92 21:38:07 EST
Distribution: na
Organization: Kendall Square Research Corp.

In article <1992Oct30.181734.3853@slustl.slu.edu> guy@slustl.slu.edu (Guy Smith) writes:
>In article <1992Oct29.180426.19991@adobe.com> bennett@adobe.com writes:
>>Eric Ameres writes
>
>>About the only disadvantage to a plunge router for handheld use is that
>>the handles are mounted on the router's body rather than on the base,
>>which contributes towards making plungers a bit more tippy than their
>>fixed base counterparts, since they're higher up.
>>
>>A disadvantage to going for the big-power routers is that they are
>>heavy, and so get tiring faster when used handheld.
>>
>The Porter Cable model 693 has 1/2" capacity, is fairly light and
>you can purchase a compatable plunge base for it. I've been happy
>with mine (I don't need a massive machine) although I haven't
>tried the plunge base yet.

I have used the Porter Cable with the plunge base and I like it very much.  I also have the Ryobi and a Hatachi.  They are also very good.  The larger routers really come into their own when plunging a counter top or when mounted in a good router table.  If I were going to start over, I would by the Porter Cable 1 1/2 HP with the D-Handle base, and the separate plunge base.  I find the D-Handle configuration is less tiring and gives me more control.

end.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: asket@acad2.alaska.edu
Subject: Re: help, glue up mistake
Organization: University of Alaska
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 02:53:21 GMT

In article <1992Nov10.193657.16100@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU>, sgs8r@kelvin.seas.Virginia.EDU (Steve Strickland, sgs8r@virginia.edu) writes:
> In article <1dm5k2INNh1o@rave.larc.nasa.gov> leut@elc11.icase.edu (Scott T. Leutenegger) writes:
>>
>>Concise problem statement:
>>
>>  I need to take apart two tongue-groove joints that were glued up
>>  with elmers wood working glue.  Can I do this without destroying the
>>  wood and the joints?  If so, what solvent should I use?  Water?
>>
>>
>>  Can I just douse the joint with water and hope to pull it apart?
>>  It is glued with elmers wood-working glues which should be water
>>  soluble.  Would this ruin the wood?
>>	
> 
> I suggest using a belt sander and/or plan to reduce the thickness of the
> panels. It will take a while (unless it's pine), but you may even find planing
> a pleasurable experience.  The other solutions you propose seem a bit risky.
> 
> -Steve Strickland
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: RON.SANDS@OFFICE.WANG.COM ("Ron Sands")
Subject: Warped Bench Top Response
Organization: WSC Imaging Support Group
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 14:40:03 GMT
Summary: What went wrong? How to correct.

>In response to Larry Wolfrum's question about his warped maple workbench.<

Larry, apparently the assembly process of your bench top was faulty.  Most
likely the pieces making up the laminated top should have been alternated
with respect to the growth rings in the wood and was not.  The best way to
correct this would be to rip it back apart at the glue line and reassemble
as it should have in the first place.  I don't feel that planing out the
warp will result in a stable and long lasting fix for you.  It will most
likely be a slave of humidity changes as long as it remains in it's present
configuration.

If I read your drawing correctly, the top edge of these laminated pieces
have swollen and you probably can look at the edge of your bench and see
the growth rings curving upwards in the same direction as top.  In the
correct assembly, you should see from the edge one curving up, the next
down, the next up, etc and so on.  If as you state that the bottom could
breathe and the top was sealed, the warp would most likely occur in the
opposite direction than yours from the swelling of the wood fibers in
response to humidity changes.

My suggestion since you do not own the equipmant to do this would be to
have a local lumber yard or cabinet shop perform the disassembly and
jointing process (unless you have and are good with hand planes).  Then
perform the glue up yourself.  You will have to weigh the cost of this
process against replacing the top with a proper one.  I really don't think
you will happy with other halfway measures.

Ron Sands
(Thoughts and opionins are my own)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: biz@columbia.Princeton.EDU (Dave Bisignano)
Subject: Re: Lathe recommendations?
Originator: news@nimaster
Keywords: lathe, beginner, low-cost
Reply-To: biz@soil.Princeton.EDU
Organization: Princeton University
Distribution: rec
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 17:40:23 GMT

If your on a budget.  i found a custom made lathe in FWW which I 
use for everything from bowls to bedposts.  this is ideal for a person
that likes to build things and has not much $$.  it cost me about $175
including a 3/4 hp motor.

Dave
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: Delta Sawbuck Frame & Trim Saw
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 19:06:57 GMT

David Doshay writes
> I thought the Sawbuck looked good too, until I inspected one closely.
> Look at how the saw slides on the rails. There is no way to get anything
> but rough-framing type cuts from the saw.

Note that the original poster was talking about the new Frame & Trim saw,
which uses rails made from stainless steel instead of some kind of black
oxidized material. It's sliding action may be better than the older
Sawbuck - I don't know.

On advantage to the older Sawbuck (actually called the Deluxe Sawbuck) is
that it can take a full-width dado set. I don't believe the new Frame & 
Trim saw can, however.


> Look at the Hitachi sliding compound miter saw instead. It is great for
> construction type work, but cuts well enough to make furniture.

The Hitachi *is* nice. But it can't take a dado set either. It also costs
significantly more than the Frame & Trim saw (but not more than the
deluxe Sawbuck).

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: gcohen@mailer.cc.fsu.edu (Gregory Cohen)
Subject: Re: UV and glass (was Re: Cherry Aging)
Organization: Florida State University
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 92 05:55:04 GMT

In article <720.160.uupcb@pcs.sj.ca.us> paul.burnett@pcs.sj.ca.us (Paul Burnett)  writes:
>TO: owens@gargoyle.uchicago.edu (Christopher Owens)
>
>
>CO>> UV will go through glass unless the glass has a coating to reflect UV.  No
>  >> clear glass will pass UV.
>
>CO>I've always been amused that the people who want to sell you special
>  >window glass say "Ordinary window glass doesn't pass wonderful,
>  >health-giving UV, so buy our fancy glass and start reaping the
>  >benefits of UV," while the folks who want to sell you fancy glass for
>  >your picture frames say "Ordinary window glass passes damaging UV, so
>  >buy our fancy glass and start protecting your valuable artwork from
>  >this menace."
>
>CO> Anybody know what gives?
>
>Yeah - another triumph of sales over marketing, and of both over common
>sense.
>
>Normal glass will pass only longwave UV; pyrex and quartz will pass
>shorter wavelength UV.
>
>---
> . QMPro 1.0 07-2042 . ...from San Jose, CA
>                                                                                                                           

There was a good article on just this in American Artist about a year ago
by Erwin V. Cohen.  I don't remember all the details but it was a wonderful
two or three part series.  If you need to e-mail me and I'm sure i can send
a copy.

Greg Cohen


gcohen@mailer.acns.fsu.edu
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Beware of the Fnord or it will eat you.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From: hsc@sybase.com (Howard Cohen)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Looking for someone to share shop space
Keywords: shop
Date: 8 Nov 92 17:03:23 GMT
Followup-To: hsc@sybase.com
Distribution: ba
Organization: Sybase, Inc.

Have you ever considered renting shop space in the East Bay?  I am at that
point now.  I can rent a shop within my means, and am just about ready to
do so.  But a friend raised the possibility of sharing shop space with
someone else.  Seems like a good idea if the other person is trustworthy.
There are certainly some benefits to sharing shop space, as well as some
drawbacks.  After some thought, I think the benefits outweigh the drawbacks.

I am looking for shop space in the Oakland/Berkeley area of the East Bay.
I found a cache of shop spaces near High Street and 880, but there is *a lot*
of potential shop spaces in this area.

If you think you would be interested in sharing shop space with me, please
contact me at any of these addresses:

	Home Phone: (510) 451-7713
	Work Phone: (510) 596-3406
	Email: hsc@sybase.com

You'll have to be able to cover your part of the rent, which does not need to
be 50%.  I am willing to rent a smaller portion of a larger shop to someone.
I would consider sharing my tools in exchange for similar privileges, with the
agreement that "if one breaks it, then one fixes or replaces it".

My timeframe is fairly immediate.  I hope to be in the process of moving my 
shop within two weeks, so don't delay!

Regards,

	Howard Cohen
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  Howard "I wood if I could" Cohen
  hsc@sybase.com  {pacbell,pyramid,sun,{uunet,ucbvax}!mtxinu}!sybase!hsc
  Sybase, Inc.    6475 Christie Avenue, Emeryville, CA 94608, 510-596-3406 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: wilson@schaefer.math.wisc.edu (Bob Wilson)
Subject: Re: Straight Edge for Jointer Alignment
Organization: Univ. of Wisconsin Dept. of Mathematics
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 92 17:09:02 GMT

gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot) writes:

>In article <1992Nov4.162742.12341@organpipe.uug.arizona.edu>, apoyner@as.arizona.edu (Tony Poyner) writes:
>> 
>[deleted]
>> The effect is that I can't plane a straight edge - I get a smooth curve
>> with the middle fatter than the ends. 
>> 
>> There is no adjustment for table parallelism.  The tables bolt to triangular
>> castings which then ride on the gibs, so I have been thinking about 
>> shimming one table, between the table and the triangular piece.
>> 
>Considering that the gib area takes the most stress, it's probably wise
>to avoid the triangular base to table interface if you can.  Here's a possible
>suggestion that may solve your problem.  Do obtain (rent?) a very good
>machinists straight edge.  Use this to determine exactly how high one
>end of each table is with respect to the end nearest the cutter head.
>Take the tables off and take them to a machine shop that has a large
>surface grinder, and have this machine shop grind your tables flat,
>straight, and correct for your gibs.  Reinstall.

>Since the tables supposedly were straight when the machine was new, I'd
>suggest checking the gib area for damage before embarking on this course.
>Also, measure three times.

>Gary
If you can find an adequately equipped shop, take in the whole thing
and get the grinding done with the tables mounted in place. That's the
way it was probably done at the factory, and the only way you can
really get all the angles to work out: You don't want flat tables
which aren't parallel.
Bob Wilson
wilson@math.wisc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Rip fence to the left?
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 19:16:18 GMT


I have a purely subjective question:

Which side of my tablesaw should I put the rip fence on?


Every large-rip-capacity tablesaw I've seen has the rip fence extending to the  
right of the saw. It seems that there are some advantages to having it on the  
left:

1) With right blade tilting saws (most saws, excluding Powermatic) you want the  
fence on the left side, so you can cut bevels without trapping the work between  
the table and the blade.

2) When crosscutting, most right handed people use the left miter gauge slot.  
By putting the rip fence, and the big table wing extension at the left, I can  
support long pieces quite effectively.


I'm interested in hearing from anyone (especially right-handers) who has tried  
using a rip fence at the left side of their tablesaw.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Straight Edge for Jointer Alignment
Date: 6 Nov 92 16:32:45 GMT
Organization: LLNL

In article <1992Nov4.162742.12341@organpipe.uug.arizona.edu>, apoyner@as.arizona.edu (Tony Poyner) writes:
> 
[deleted]
> The effect is that I can't plane a straight edge - I get a smooth curve
> with the middle fatter than the ends. 
> 
> There is no adjustment for table parallelism.  The tables bolt to triangular
> castings which then ride on the gibs, so I have been thinking about 
> shimming one table, between the table and the triangular piece.
> 
Considering that the gib area takes the most stress, it's probably wise
to avoid the triangular base to table interface if you can.  Here's a possible
suggestion that may solve your problem.  Do obtain (rent?) a very good
machinists straight edge.  Use this to determine exactly how high one
end of each table is with respect to the end nearest the cutter head.
Take the tables off and take them to a machine shop that has a large
surface grinder, and have this machine shop grind your tables flat,
straight, and correct for your gibs.  Reinstall.

Since the tables supposedly were straight when the machine was new, I'd
suggest checking the gib area for damage before embarking on this course.
Also, measure three times.

Gary
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking