HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: hendrick@ctron.com (James R. Hendrick)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Castrol Syntax
Date: 23 Nov 92 20:16:45 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Cabletron Systems Inc.
In-reply-to: odell@oasys.dt.navy.mil's message of 17 Nov 92 10:50:37 GMT


	I have a 1983 GTI with 120K and I change the oil/filter
(always GTX, 10/40 winter, 20/50 summer with either a Fram or a Mann filter)
every 2500 miles. I just did a compression test: 170,175,175,170 (psi).
I do NOT baby the car. I did however, break it in S L O W L Y as in less than
3000 RPM in the first 2500 miles, then up 5000 RPM for each 2500 miles or so.
It has been rock solid all its life. I only used one additive, SLICK 50 at
80K. It did seem to give a bit better mileage (2-3 mpg) so I did it again at
115K. I too am considering going synthetic with a new car. As was pointed out,
its not the oil that breaks down, its the dirt in the oil. That said, what is
to be gained by synthetics? I don't know really. Maybe you could extend
the oil use a bit by changing filters at 2.5K and oil every 5K ?? It would
depend a lot on how the oil looked.

	If anyone ever finds any definitive answers, please post as I am sure
we all are interested!

Jim

--
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### Jim Hendrick (hendrick@ctron.com)   ###                             ###
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Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Urgent! Engine rpm goes up to 5000! HELP!
From: jchen@acsu.buffalo.edu (Jonathan Chen)
Date: 15 Nov 92 16:25:15 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: UB



Hi, netters

	I bought a 86 VW Golf Wolfburg edition with 69000 miles on it and
	experience no problem until now.  It is a 5-spd stick.

	I wonder if someone experience the following problem, or can offer
	advices to me:

Here is what happen:
	I was merging to the I-290 with 4th gear on 4000rpm.  The other car
wouldn't let me merge in.  So I stepped on the accelerator and then merged
in and shift to 5th gear.  While I was shifting, the engine rpm ran to 5000.
I thought I probably still stepped on the gas padel. So I didn't pay attention.
later on, the traffic slowed down, so I brake a little with the brake. Once I
released the brake (I didn't touch the accelerator yet), the car want to speed
up again.  So I shifted to neutral.  Wow! 5000rpm as idle speed??? I couldn't
believe it!.  (it was snowing here in Buffalo and there was a lot of traffic,
so I stopped it on the shoulder ... got it tow home)


I think the problem is the accelator cable got stuck somewhere.  But I have no
idea of checking it.  Can anyone tell me how?

I consult the Haynes manual (sorry, I don't have the good one ).  They say
there will be a throttle switch, but I can't find one.  I really have no
idea now.

Can anyone give me some advices about what is or maybe going on with here?
If it is possible, I will do the job myself because I am
in finacial trouble already.  Thanks alot!!

-Jonathan
From: milo@dorm.rutgers.edu (james mielo)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Do insurance companies hate VWs?
Date: 15 Nov 92 16:05:30 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.vw
Organization: rutgers university

In article <921114.231215.amiller@almaden.ibm.com>, amiller@almaden.ibm.com
(Alex Miller) wrote:
> 
> Why is it that VWs are so expensive to insure, relative
> to similar price, similar performance cars?  Do VW
> owners have a higher incidence of expensive claims?
> 
 The GTi's have a poor claims record according to my insurer (USAA). Plus
they are a high theft item since they are lumped in with the cabriolet.
    plus the damn bumpers bend on impact.An extra cost to the insurer. I
think the cost is about $800. The car cabin holds up well in an accident
but everything else around the car crumples like a tin can. As a result the
insurance company usually writes it off as totaled.

James Mielo
Rutgers College of Pharmacy '94
milo@dorm.rutgers.edu

 owner of  a broken 1990 GTi 8v
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: jdouglas@MITRE.org (Jason Douglas)
Subject: Re: Info on Bus Campers - Buying Used
Organization: The MITRE Corporation
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 21:35:21 GMT

In article <1992Nov13.165204.1@ulkyvx.louisville.edu> 
pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu writes:
> Don't buy a Wasserboxer Vanagon, they will self-destruct!  The 
Wasserboxer is
> not THE water-cooled Vanagon, it is A water-cooled Vanagon.  The ones 
with
> Rabbit motors will not blow head gasket and commit suicide, the 
Wasserboxer
> will.

Rabbit motor equipped vanagon = diesel.  I've read about it, but as a 
Vanagon driver I can't imagine doing with half the horsepower.  Will they 
go up hill ?  Note -- earlier thread reported VW providing partial 
assistance to Vanagon head(ache) gasket sufferers.
From: dilmore@cray.com (Robert J. Dilmore)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Timing belts and 16v engines
Keywords: VW engine, belts
Date: 16 Nov 92 13:01:55 GMT
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.

In article <l=s1p=+@rpi.edu> squiec@vccsouth14.its.rpi.edu (Craig L. Squier) writes:
>In article <110@mipps.myapc.com> haskins@mipps.myapc.com (Robert D. Haskins) writes:
>>I was told by a reputable service manager that the timing belts of VW 16-valve
>>engines need to be changed at 60k miles.  Has anyone had a timing belt go on
>>them this soon?  The service manager indicated that the belt is spec'ed only
>>to 60k miles.  I would think that VW would spec it for more like 100k miles.
>>Is this guy telling the truth?  The vehicle in question happens to be a '90
>>Passat, but he indicated that it was the same for all VW 16-valve engines.
>>
>   Your local service manager is a crack smoker!!!!!!!!

Nope he is just giving good information.

 Unless you want to 
> buy a new head , you should replace the timing belt at 40000 miles. 
> Any time over that and you're asking to have the God of Bent Valves rain
> fury upon your poor VW. There are special belts I've heard of that have
> wires embedded in the belt to keep it from breaking off(sure destruction)
> but if these come into play you nay lose enough cam timing to still bend a 
> valve or too, these belts just increase the safety factor to keep various
> parts from going ballistic through your hood....
> Follow the most conservative guide available when it comes to mainteneance.
> i.e. the BEntley Manual. They say 40,000, therefore I'd pay attention to 
> their experience, eh???
   
   Craig it is obvious that your Passat Bentley manual is of a much newer 
revision than mine (Ed closing 08/91). Because I must be wrong when I am 
looking at page 2.6 which says" 60,000 or 4 years " and "inspect and adjust
every 15,000 miles" on page 11.4

Robert
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: Re: Shoulder belts for rear seats in Golf,GTI?
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 13:54:46 GMT

In article <1992Nov19.222910.3530@news.cs.brandeis.edu>, andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang) writes:
>In article <BxzCJH.wL@umassd.edu> rgolen@UMASSD.EDU writes:
>>In article <1992Nov19.151010.23193@ee.rochester.edu>, msirota@ee.rochester.edu (Mark Sirota) writes:
>>>In article <mbernar-181192202706@macnet2_03.erenj.com> mbernar@erenj.com (Marcelino Bernardo) writes:
>>>> As the subject says, can the GTI (1985) be retrofitted with
>>>> shoulder belts for the rear seats.  Is this available from
>>>> the dealer or other source?
>
>>You can put shoulder belts on the rear in an early A2 without all that
>>much trouble. On the C Pilar is a mounting point, you will have to take
>
>Okay.  Now what about late A1 cars?  The obvious solution is to
>install a roll bar behind the rear seats (I want my kids to be
>REALLY safe) and put in the 6 point harness ("If you're not
>going to be nice, I'm not going to release your seatbelt").
>
>Anything more reasonable than this?
>
>-andy
>
The same applies to the A1 cars also. If you carefully probe around
the "C-Pillar" with a fairly long sewing needle, you should come
up with a mounting point at a level that is about half-way up the
side window. I noticed this when I was building my 83 GTI into an
E-Prepared autoxer.

Hope this helps.

Ric Golen



>
>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: squiec@rs6424.ecs.rpi.edu (Craig L. Squier)
Subject: Re: alignment question
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 18:00:15 GMT

In article <27590@oasys.dt.navy.mil> lito@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Angelito Lucena) writes:
>hi,
>
>i have a 88 jetta gli w/ ~75,000 miles.
>
>i brought the car in for a four wheel alignment yesterday
>and was told that 'cam bolts' needed to be added to the
>front end.  how far out of alignment can the front suspension
>be before 'cam bolts' are required??  i thought that the rear
>suspension was nonadjustable,  how is a four wheel alignment
>performed on the back end??  is it normal to add rear shims
>to adjust the rear end??
  
 I think you have it reversed. The front end already has said cam bolts on it.  This is how a front end alignment is performed. If a REAR alignment is needed,
 as such in a 4 wheel, THen the cam bolts must be installed. When I went to
 Sears( LONG NOTED FOR THEIR QUALITY aaack WORKMANSHIP AND SINCERITY ) 
 the quote was about $10 for the parts and $40 for labor on top of the $69
 for the alignment. If your back end is this far out of spec, then these are a
 good idea. 
 >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>       -Craig. 

>thanks in advance,
>and please email to:
>
>lito lucena
>lito@oasys.dt.navy.mil
> now at  :  dtmb, cdhq, nwsc          'if the defaults weren't good enough,
> formerly: dtrc, carderock                  they wouldn't be defaults.....'
>							bill's sister
From: bugman@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Matthew Ethan Soiney)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: alternator
Date: 16 Nov 1992 20:44:50 GMT
Organization: Computing Services Division, University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
NNTP-Posting-Host: 129.89.7.4

does anybody know where i can get a high output alternator for a type 4 engine?
please e mail me if you know
thanx danno
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: christos@wucs1.wustl.edu (Christos Papadopoulos)
Subject: Re: Keeping Your Watercooled VW cool.
Organization: Washington University, St. Louis MO
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 00:06:50 GMT

In article <1992Nov16.234700.5188@trl.oz.au> c.oneill@trl.oz.au (Chris O'Neill) writes:
>A more general question: why is there such a range of thermostat opening
>temperatures between different cars?  Obviously, the designers of cars with low
>thermostat temperatures thought there was something more important than
>maximizing engine efficiency.
>
>Chris O'Neill
>Telecom Australia Research Labs

	The thermostat opening temperature is not the only factor determining the engine
operating temp. The placement of the thermostat is crucial too. A thermostat placed
at the coolant inlet to the engine (near the water-pump) will see lower coolant
temperature than one placed at the coolant oulet (in the upper radiator hose).
Assuming that both thermostats are rated for the same temperature, thermostat A
will keep the engine at a higher temperature than thermostat B, because it will
not open as much for a given engine temp.
	If you agree with the above logic, then this explains the difference in
thermostat temp ratings in different cars.

Christos.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: jmesser@morgan.ucs.mun.ca (James Messer )
Subject: heater core change-over vw Rabbit
Organization: Memorial University of Newfoundland
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1992 00:45:46 GMT

I have read a few articles asking about the trouble in changing over
heater cores. Well I have done it about three times to my 77 rabbit for
varios reasons. The first time was a real bitch, even with a manaul. The
second time was easier, naturally, and the third not too bad. On the
whole the procedure takes me about two hours, depending on the weather.
My garage is the great outdoors. The hardest part is the removal of the
whole heating system. Well not the removal but moving enough that you
can get to the core. If anybody wants to get more details on what I
encountered when I undertook this task you can e-mail me at the address
below

jmesser@morgan.ucs.mun.ca        (Murdo Messer  A.K.A. MUD)
From: lito@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Angelito Lucena)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: alignment question
Date: 17 Nov 92 13:32:03 GMT
Reply-To: lito@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Angelito Lucena)
Distribution: na
Organization: David Taylor Research Center, Carderock

hi,

i have a 88 jetta gli w/ ~75,000 miles.

i brought the car in for a four wheel alignment yesterday
and was told that 'cam bolts' needed to be added to the
front end.  how far out of alignment can the front suspension
be before 'cam bolts' are required??  i thought that the rear
suspension was nonadjustable,  how is a four wheel alignment
performed on the back end??  is it normal to add rear shims
to adjust the rear end??

thanks in advance,
and please email to:

lito lucena
lito@oasys.dt.navy.mil
 now at  :  dtmb, cdhq, nwsc          'if the defaults weren't good enough,
 formerly: dtrc, carderock                  they wouldn't be defaults.....'
							bill's sister
From: milo@dorm.rutgers.edu (james mielo)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: * Tranny grind turned to  broken GTi*
Date: 15 Nov 92 15:49:34 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.vw
Organization: rutgers university


   HELP HELP HELP. I have a 90 GTi with 38k and it's broke. I wrote earlier
about grinding in the tranny 1-2 shift. Well, to day something went
drasticlly wrong.

      MY GTI IS DEAD. Earlier, I had the pinion pop off and grind up the
tranny. No problem, VW gave me a new 1st,2nd gears plus synchro and
hardware free. 

     Didn't stop grinding so I called the VWOA number and they suggested it
might be normal. I thought it was normal based on what everyone on the
board has told me. So, I just didn't pay it much attention. I even put the
redline fluid on order.

    Then, this morning I get a call from my brother ( I loaned him my car).
 The car has quit. Second gear will not engage. The car shutters on
acceleration in all gears and all gears with grinding noises. The grinding
noise is less pronounce in the lower gears( 1st quitest-5th loudest) The
clutch engages but makes a tumping noise .  plus the idle lumpy.
       Sounds like the clutch is a goner or at least a bearing or something
       I was thinking it could be the tranny but am not sure.

       I need some help on this and fast

James Mielo
Rutgers College of Pharmacy '94
milo@dorm.rutgers.edu

 1990 GTi 8v
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: GTI vs. GTi
Date: 21 Nov 92 15:27:21 GMT
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.

In article <1992Nov20.204426.26460@ee.rochester.edu>, msirota@ee.rochester.edu (Mark Sirota) writes:
>I have a simple, innocent question.  Why do so many Americans insist on
>calling it a GTi rather than a GTI?  I know that in Great Britain, it's a
>GTi.  As far as I know, that's true *only* in Great Britain -- or is it also
>true in the rest of Europe?
>
>I've never seen anyone in the US calling the Rabbit a "Golf", or referring to
>the Jetta as a "Vento", nobody used "Passat" when talking about the Quantum.
>Why is there this odd loyalty to the British name of the GTI?
>-- 
>Mark Sirota - Systems Staff, College of Engineering and Applied Science
>University of Rochester, Rochester NY
> Internet: msirota@ee.rochester.edu
> UUCP:     rutgers!ur-valhalla!msirota

Let me throw in a quote from the British book by Ian Wagstaff - Volkswagen
Golf GTI (note capital I) - First and Finest of the Hot Hatches:

"The badge on the Golf GTI is all capitals, yet there is no hard and fast
rule as to how it should be written. Even with the launch of the third
generation car, the information-pack from Offentlichkeitsarbeit
Motorpresse at Wolfsburg referred to the 'GTI', while the accompanying
press releases from the UK importer's offices in Milton Keynes spoke
of the 'GTi'."

It appears that for whatever reason the UK VW importer refers to the
'GTI' as the 'GTi'. This is even in their advertisements for the
car in the print media. It is interesting to note that the badging
on the cars in the ads read 'GTI' while the car is described as
a Golf GTi'. One of the UKs premiere tuners of GTIs is
GTi (small i) Engineering.

BTW you can get some neat stuff via GTi Engineering for your GTIs.
When I first got my 86, I contacted GTi Engineering and purchased
the Eurpoean GOLF GTI rear and GTI front badging. Eventually when
the Euro front grilles became available, I put one of them on
the 86. Outwardly, with the exception of the crash bumpers, the
car looked like a euro model....until VWUS screwed it up by
putting the Euro grilles on the 91s....<sigh>


Ric Golen
From: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Timing belts and 16v engines
Date: 23 Nov 1992 21:18:55 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, eu507dac@pts.mot.com (DOUG CHRISTENSEN X3915 P6818) says:

>>============================================================================
>>
>>     Hi, I have a question for ya... On the average, how much does it cost
>>     to have the timing belt replaced by an independent volkswagon repair
>>     shop... and how much does it cost for the timing belt alone?   I have
>>     a 16V Scirocco and it has 56,000 miles on it, I am thinking about
>>     replacing the belt soon...
>>
>>     By the way, would you know if I can have the cam shaft replaced without
>>     taking more things apart when changing the belt?  I am thinking about
>>     buying a new cam shaft(those high performance ones) and stick it in the
>>     engine to boost up the horsepower.  Does anyone have any suggestions
>>     to which ones are good, and if doing so may be good or bad to the
>>     engine?
>>
>>     Doug, what does 'SSB Scirocco' mean?  :)
>>
>>
>>               -kent
>>
>>
>I do my own work so I don't know what the dealer charges.  I think the belt
>costs $50 - $60 (again, I'm not sure).  I would guess the labor to be about
>be about 2 hours.  Call your local dealer, they can tell the cost over the
>phone.  Cams, hum?  The air plenum (sp?) needs to be removed to get the valve
>off.  Then there are two cams, one intake, one exhaust.  Not a simple job, but 
>it is possible.
>
>Recommendation,  if you have emmisions tests, I would not fool with the cams.
>Also I've read better performance increases in replacing (in this order) 1)
>K+N air filter, 2) European exhaust manifold, 3) Blue printed injectors and 4)
>a larger throttle body (emmissions?).  Bump the timing up to about 10 degrees
>and run good gas (listen for pining and retard if necessary).

oops..forgot about the ol' intake on the 16v's...sorry..obviously, you should
listen to this man instead of me, as he OBVIOUSLY knows 16v's better than I.
sorry! :-)



>
>SSB is my SCCA racing class. Showroom Stock B.

ah.i c..thanx!
DREW
>Enjoy,  Doug
>
>
-- 
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
?????????????????????????????????-----whatever!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mcr@cactus.org (Mike)
Subject: Wanted: Wheels for my '86 GTI !!!
Organization: Capital Area Central Texas UNIX Society, Austin, Tx
Distribution: tx
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 03:38:41 GMT

I'm posting this for a friend.  Please call him at the number listed 
below if you can help him out, ok?  Thanks.

Ok, so I wasn't watching...I hit a curb on the interstate and totalled
both wheels on the left side.  Consequently, I'm looking to buy two
replacements.  Specifically, they're 14 spoked alloy, no polish/paint.
You can reach me at 512-442-3612.  Thanks...Lee

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: christos@wucs1.wustl.edu (Christos Papadopoulos)
Subject: Re: Keeping Your Watercooled VW cool.
Organization: Washington University, St. Louis MO
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 00:37:38 GMT

In article <1e95p6INN51b@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer) writes:
>
>In a previous article, amiller@almaden.ibm.com (Alex Miller) says:
>
>>Running the fan all the time would lengthen the time it takes
>>for your engine to reach normal operating temperature - during
>>this time your performance will suffer and you'll pollute more.
>
>ok boyz and girlz..not to argue either view point, as i find this
>to be fairly informative, and i have my opinions, but no specific
>reazonz for what i do..so..i want a question answered...see..i
>would argue (if i were arguing) that what brother miller has said
>above is not true, as this is what the thermostat controlls...
>if the water is being coooled too much by a constanty running fan,
>the thermostat does not open as much....this is why trucks, and 
>various other vehicles of even today that have the fan attached
>directly to the crank manage to still warm up,etc...like i said,
>though, i am not sure that this is how a thermostat works...can
>anyone help me here?(sorry A. Miller, but i just have to ask this
>but do not wish to dispute what you have said, so please, not to
>take this as a personal flame!)
>thanx one and all!
>DREW

	I too think that Alex's reasoning maybe flawed during
correct engine operation. Let me explain: In VWs (and most
cars for that matter) there are two passages that circulate coolant
through the engine: (1) through the radiator, and (2) through a bypass
hose. The latter completly bypasses the radiator and is used when the
engine is cold. This allows the engine to rise to normal operating
temp very fast. After that the thermostat opens slowly letting in cold
coolant from the radiator. As the temp keeps rising the thermostat opens more
allowing more coolant from the rad to circulate through the engine.
Finally, all of the coolant flows through the radiator and the bypass
hose is bypassed. Thus the expansion of the thermostat accomplishes
two different things: (1) opens the radiator passage, and (2) closes the
bypass hose passage. The two are complimentary, i.e. when one is fully
open the other is fully closed and vice-versa.  The water pump is unaware
of which passage is used.

	If the fan runs constantly it cools only the radiator coolant
during startup, thus not affecting the rate the engine warms up. As
Drew pointed out, the only side effect is that the coolant in the radiator
gets colder, but this simply causes the thermostat to open less, thus
still maintaining the correct engine temp. However, it is possible that
there might be some coolant leakage from the radiator during warmup
if the thermostat is old and does not seal very well, in which case running
the fan constantly will cause slower engine warmup.
Alex's point is valid in this case.

	Hope this helps.

Christos.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw