From: psv2b@poe.acc.Virginia.EDU (Peter S. Vines)
Subject: summary - lathe sanding
Organization: University of Virginia
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 14:29:30 GMT

These are tips I received when requesting assistance with sanding rings
on lathe work.
----------------------------------------------

LATHE sanding techniques: 
Well, there are four techniques that work for me:
 
1. keep your tools sharp enough, and most woods won't need sanding.
   (Yeah, I know, this is motherhood and apple pie. I always need to
    sand, but its usually just touch-up.)
 
2. On bowls, plates, and long smooth sections of spindles you can use a
   random-orbit sander while the piece is revolving. This calls for a
   delicate touch, but it works like magic. Some folks use disk sanders,
   especially down inside closed vessels, but they always cause me more
   trouble than they're worth.
 
3. Use emory cloth, rather than sandpaper. Don't know why this should be
   so, but it always works a lot better for me. Lasts longer, too.
 
4. Admit that you're not gonna get rid of all the marks, and incorporate
   them into your design.
========================================== 

I have had the same problem. Considering I am really into making pens 
(for desksets, ballpoints, fountain pens), rings are the bane of my work too.
I find from observation mainly that people hold their sandpaper at exactly
90 degrees to the work. This gives you a build up of grit, etc. which in 
part causes the rings. Try tilting the paper at an angle so that the dust falls
off the end more readily. Do this in a side to side motion, pulling the paper
across the wood. I use various grits of sandpaper in small strips 
usually about 1" wide. I start with 100 grit till most of the rings are gone,
then 220, then 400 grit. Now comes the best part, While it is spinning, I use
Bartleys Wood Filler (what ever is closes in color). Just rub it on with a 
cloth, and wait about 20 seconds. Give it another light pass with the SAME
400 grit piece. Then I polish with 600, 1000, and 1200 grit sandpaper. 
I know it sounds extreme, I thought so too when someone else showed me, 
but considering that something is coming off when I use the 1000 and 1200
that tells me something was still rough enough that it needed it. For
most things I finish with a mixture of equal parts shellac, linseed oil,
and denatured alchohol. This is quick drying. Follow this up with a light
wax, for fingerprint control and you have a BEAUTIFUL piece when done.

I hope this helps, I've used this on bowls, spindles and of course pens.
For elaborate turning, where there are lots of beads, or coves, you have to 
do the best you can to get in those grooves. 
================================================

First of all, let me state that I'd be intersted in a summary posting
of all the tips you receive to the net.  Now, here's my contribution:

I've found reversing the direction of spin on the lathe helpful
in some cases (depending on the wood).  Of course, to do this, you
need a lathe with a reversible motor.

Also, a sanding disk chucking in a portable drill, or a portable
angle grinder, is used by many turners to speed final finishing.
They spin the disk using the drill while simultaneously spinning
the workpiece chucked in the lathe.

Of course, the best method of all is to develop your skill to the
point where your pieces come off the tool without requiring amy
sanding at all.  I've seen some of the pros do this!  Of course, this
requires years of practice.
====================================
--
- Peter Vines : vines@virginia.edu : (804) 924-4644 : University of Virginia