HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: kmosher@IMD.Sterling.COM (Ken Mosher)
Subject: Re: Octane reduces pinging (was Re: Fuel octane versus power)
Organization: Sterling Software, IMD
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 17:37:50 GMT
X-Md4-Signature: 78d5eb48d15079f339ed123cda069cab

In article <3380042@hpldsla.sid.hp.com> tonya@hpldsla.sid.hp.com (Tony Arnerich) writes:
>In rec.autos.tech, JBEST@ESOC.BITNET (Jon) writes:
>
>>  Does anyone out there know how a change in octane rating affects power?
>>  AND BEFORE YOU LEAP IN and say higher octane - more power, what I'd like
>>  to know is whether there's a fixed relation between octane and power.
>>  F'rinstance if you bump up the octane by x% how can you calculate the
>>  percentage change in power?
>
>>  Just curious!
>
>>     Jon
>
>High Octane = difficult to ignite. It does not equal more energy available.
>
>Only one manufacturer that I know of (maybe there's more by now) does get 
>more power from higher octane fuel. On the Turbo SAAB's of the last 5 years
>or so, the turbo boost is increased until the knock sensors detect pre-
>ignition, then back off a little bit. This cycle is continuously repeated.
>
>The effect of this is to burn as much fuel as the cylinders can hold before
>bad things happen. So in effect, just as any turbo will make the engine
>appear to be of larger displacement, the SAAB turbo engine gets "as big as
>it can", automatically tracking the octane rating of the fuel it gets.
>
>Obviously, combustion efficiency is not proportional to octane rating in
>this engine; just the amount of air/fuel mixture. Think of it as the excep-
>tion that proves the rule (literally).
>
>tonya@hpldsla.sid.hp.com
>
This is also the way the Buick Grand National Turbo V-6 handles octane.  In my
case, the more I "turn up the wick" by shortening the wastegate rod (i.e. provide more boost) the better my power is if THERE IS SUFFICIENT OCTANE TO PREVENT
DETONATION.  When I race, I use the most octane avaiable, usually 112-114 
octane racing gas, I can run about 20 lbs boost.  Compared with the stock
15lb limit, that provides an extra 50-60 horsepower.  This, in combination
with the correct plugs and STOUT stock ignition, provide enough extra   
cylinder pressure to propel my 3640 lb (with driver) GN to a best of 12.33 @
109.538 mph in the quarter.  All that go quick for less than $1500 worth of
bolt ons!  And 25+ mpg on the highway ...
BTW, I have seen what inadequate octane does to head gaskets and pistons.
A friend of mine had a GN that had an overboost problem for a long time and
he just ran plain old 87 octane Qwik-Trip gas.  Eventually it blew a head 
gasket and "pocked" most of the pistons.  The head gasket looked like a mouse
had chewed big chunks out of the sealing surface around the number three
cylinder!  Just goes to show that even the advanced electronics can't 
compensate for operator error!


-- 
Ken Mosher                   UUCP:     uunet!sparky!kmosher                  =
Sterling Software IMD        INTERNET: kmosher@sparky.IMD.Sterling.COM       =
BuickGN:The surgeon general never said anything about smoking the competition=
"Scotty to Cap'n Kirk! Come in Cap'n Kirk!...Thanks Scotty....Nice Place!"   =
From: ldahlmey@zia.aoc.nrao.edu (Lothar Dahlmeyer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: New Automobile
Date: 6 Apr 92 15:56:07 GMT
Article-I.D.: zia.1992Apr6.155607.23171
Distribution: usa
Organization: National Radio Astronomy Observatory, Socorro NM

In article <3694@vtserf.cc.vt.edu> greenfie@vtserf.cc.vt.edu (Steve Greenfield) writes:
>I am considering the purchase of a new automobile.  To make sure that I
>get a very good deal I want to do some research.  Before I go in to
>negotiate a deal I want to be equipped with as much information as
>possible.  I have heard of people finding out what the dealer pays for
>an automobile so they have a basis for negotiation.  Where might I find
>this type of information? 
>
>Where is the best source for finding out which makers and models have
>the best made cars?  My last new car was a Toyota Camry and we have had
>it for 105,000 miles.  It has been a good car but the new ones are
>listed at such high prices!  Are there other good choices available?  
>
>Thanks for any suggestions on sources of these types of information!
>
>- feats@vtvm1
>  feats@vtvm1.cc.vt.edu

The April issue of Consumer Reports answers all of these qustions.

-- 
            /MMMMMMMMMMM\             | ldahlmey@zia.aoc.nrao.edu 
          {|  /\  ~  /\  |}           | Lothar Dahlmeyer  
______nnnn_|_|_@|   |_@|_|_nnnn_______| National Radio Astronomy Observatory
      UUUU       \_/       UUUU       | Socorro, New Mexico, 87801
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dan@research.nj.nec.com (Dan Ruderman)
Subject: Strange Audi electrical problem
Originator: dan@zingo.nj.nec.com
Organization: NEC Research Institute
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 92 16:51:56 GMT


	I have an 81 4000 which has been showing some typical Audi
	electrical wierdness.  The current problem is particularly
	disturbing since it's related to the charging system.

	When I first start the car I can tell that the battery is
	discharging even though the engine is idling.  This is 
	indicated by the hokey voltmeter in the dash.  It is not until
	I rev the engine over about 2800 rpm that the voltage needle
	suddenly pops up to its normal position and stays there for
	the rest of the drive, no matter how low the engine speed
	goes.  I don't hear a relay click in when this happens, so
	I don't know what is making the "decision" to up the voltage.

	Note I have changed the alternator brush set, had the alternator
	in for a diagnosis (clean), and changed the battery.  Actually
	putting in a fresh battery seemed to help a bit.


	Anyway, on a freezing cold night the last thing you want to do
	when you just start up is to rev to 3000 rpm so your battery
	doesn't drain.



	Any advice would be much appreciated.


	Thanks,
	Dan

	dan@research.nj.nec.com


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: harling@pictel.com (Dan Harling)
Subject: Re: TRIPLE EDGE WIPER QUESTION
Organization: PictureTel Corporation
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1992 18:34:00 GMT

In article <51330009@hpscit.sc.hp.com> rog@hpscit.sc.hp.com (Roger Haaheim) writes:
>Consider also that with 3 edges the motor is working 3 times
>harder (or so) which it may not be designed for...

I am curious as to why moving three blades across a window, each
exerting 1/3 of the total force exerted by the the wiper arm spring,
takes three times as much effort as a single blade exerting the full
force of the wiper arm spring.

Just nit-picking...
____________________________________________________________________________
Daniel A. Harling                        (harling@pictel.com)
PictureTel Corp.             Opinions expressed are not necessarily those of
Peabody, MA  01960                 PictureTel, but they ought to be!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kevins@stingray.intel.com (Kevin Smith)
Subject: Re: High Horseposer FWD
Reply-To: kevins@stingray.intel.com (Kevin Smith)
Organization: WCDP
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1992 17:50:03 GMT

In article <1992Apr8.144522.5974@news.cs.brandeis.edu>,
andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang) writes:
|>
|>Let's not forget that in the 60's Cadillac introduced the FWD Tornado
|>which had big (pre-gas crisis) V-8, 400CID in them.  I think that they
|>put out well over 200hp.
|>
|>
                     
The Oldsmobile Toranado was introduced in 1965 or 1966 with a 425 CID engine
and front wheel drive.  I don't know the horseposer rating of the engine, but
it was probably >= 325 HP, but this would be gross HP not net HP as would be
most measured HP these days.

The Cadillac version of this car was the Eldorado.  I would guess that during
1970, 1971 this car was using the Cadillac 500 or 472?? powerplant, and that
the Olds version was probably using a 455.
From: rghoff@bb1t.monsanto.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Engine Temp Quickly "Surges" Up & Down
Date: 9 Apr 92 11:42:05 CST
Organization: Monsanto Company, St. Louis, MO

In article <1992Apr7.171505.15405@usenet.ins.cwru.edu>, ai065@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Thomas Hill) writes:
> 
>    I was driving down the highway the other day with the engine temp right
> where it should be in the middle of the temp gage. Suddenly the engine temp
> climbed to the max level within a few seconds, stayed there for about two
> minutes, and then slowly went back into the normal range. Is this a bad
> gage or is something else wrong? Also, I changed the thermostat about four
> months ago.
> 
>    Tom
> 
>  This is an 83 2.3 liter Ford engine.
> -- 

Hi Tom,

Did you check your coolant level? If it's low, it can surge through the
system and hit the temp sending unit in an erratic manner causing it to 
go up and down.

Or maybe a loose wire from the sending unit.

Or maybe a loose wire to you electric fan (if you have one) or other
electric fan problems.

Maybe you sucked some trash onto the front of the radiator and that blocked
the air flow for awhile and then it fell off (this happened to me once - it
was a trash bag).

Maybe you hit a 'Cold Hole'.  A place very few of us have been, but has
been shown to suck the cold out of things and make them heat up. But
maybe not.... :-)

Rick.
From: jac6@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (JOSEPH A. COSTANZO)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: air compressors - single/two stage???
Date: 10 Apr 92 00:08:21 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

Hello all,

Could somebody who knows make a recommendation:  I'm am thinking about buying
a new air compressor to do some paintwork (non commercial, but dedicated).
I've been looking here and there and have come up with the following question.
What is the difference between a single stage compressor and a two stage
machine?  What are the advantages/disadvantages of either?  Does a two-stage
generally provide a higher operating pressure?

Thanks for all help - I'm confused!

Joseph Costanzo
Lehigh University
JAC6@ns1.cc.Lehigh.edu
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Wednesday, 15 Apr 1992 13:06:51 EDT
From: Spyros D. A. Antoniou <SDA106@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Battery Indicator in Buick 1981 Skylark

I have a question regarding the status of the Battery light in my car.
(This light is located next to the gas-heat meters in the driver's
seat.
My battery light is on for some time now. I bought one of the car
battery gadgets that Radio Shack sells to check the power of the
alternator or the battery. I used it and it does not show any sign
of a problem. It says that my alternator is working 'ok', and that my
battery is 'ok' . The scale goes from 'weak', 'ok', to 'good'.
I bought the car a year ago (used) and the only thing I have done
to the battery is add some battery acid. The light went on after that.
The car is a Buick Skylark 1981 6V engine (2door) if this gives
any clues to anyone. Any help is appreciated.
If you have any suggestions,
Can you please send them to sda106@psuvm.psu.edu
/Spyros
From: mike@nyquist.bellcore.com (Mike Lukacs 21341)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Turbocharger VS. Supercharger.
Date: 9 Apr 92 19:50:47 GMT
Organization: Bellcore

In article <1992Apr8.140626.3889@ecl.psu.edu> jsb@ecl.psu.edu (GREG GRANVILLE) writes:
>
>In summary: My car doesn't have a frigg'in supercharger! It's a
>TURBOcharger gawdammit! ... It says so right on the back of the
>sunvisor.  Now PLEASE, lets talk about something TECHNICAL that
>is of some PRACTICAL value.
>
>...Greg
>
MY Car doesn't  have a frigg'in Mickey Mouse, Step 'n Fetchit, turbocharger!
It's a SuperCharger!  ... It says so right on the side molding. and other
places.  (not all cars are like YOUR car, there are some important differences)
(like 315 Ft.Lbs. @2400 RPM from a 3.8 liter 6) :-) ;-) :-)

     /\_/\ /\_/\   Three Black Cats Racing
     (^ ^) {@ @}   "Black cats CONSTANTLY       *****************
     ==~== ==o==     cross my path."          *  Mike  :::    :  *
      \@/   \^/                             *  Lukacs  :::    :  *________
      |=|   ###_             _-----------=%.............;`....'@..........\
(    /  \  /    \           @  _____ XR7                :         _____   *
 \  /   |  |     \        **../ ___ \Supercharged.......:......../ ___ \..**
  )/ ||||  ||||(  \   \  "___/ /   \ \__________________________/ /   \ \__"
 (( /||||  |||| \  )   ) \___!(  @  )!__________________________!(  @  )!_/
   m !m!m  m!m! m-~(__/        \___/                              \___/
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sasclh@unx.sas.com (Cary Hatch)
Subject: G.M. (late model) pickups (ROAR) conclusion 
Reply-To: sasclh@unx.sas.com (Cary Hatch)
Organization: SAS Institute Inc.
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1992 20:48:25 GMT
X-Bytes: 696

Thanx for the info:                    

I have pulled a few fans over the years in water pump
replacements but I guess I never considered exactly how
the fan clutch works...  

Am still a little puzzled why it can be heard so plainly
on my 91 and not so plainly on an 82.

I would guess that todays slower engine revolution rates 
may have something to do with it, for example more pitch
on the fan blades may be necessary and therefore may be
louder.  Another factor may be the "serpentine" belt.  It
must do the job of several belts now where differing loads
and revolution requirements must be met...

IDLE SPECULATION - sorry about that...

anyway once again, thanx for the input...

Cary 

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: brownr@hydra.rtp.dg.com (Randy Brown)
Subject: Re: New Automobile
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 92 21:26:45 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Data General Corporation. RTP, NC.
Followup-To: rec.autos

In article <3694@vtserf.cc.vt.edu> greenfie@vtserf.cc.vt.edu (Steve Greenfield) writes:
>
>Where is the best source for finding out which makers and models have
>the best made cars?  My last new car was a Toyota Camry and we have had
>it for 105,000 miles.  It has been a good car but the new ones are
>listed at such high prices!  Are there other good choices available?  

One suggestion.  Lets try to keep these kind of things in rec.autos.
More and more we have hundreds of articles in r.a.t having no technical
merit.  Followups to rec.autos.

Sorry.

Randy
From: action@cbnewse.cb.att.com (timothy.d.acton)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Mustang Mufflers different
Summary: NOT!
Keywords: MUSTANG MUFFLER
Date: 16 Apr 92 13:17:57 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T

In article <31685@sdcc12.ucsd.edu>, severse@sdcc3.ucsd.edu (Stephen Everse) writes:
> I have a 91 Mustang LX 5.0L and I noticed that the original mufflers
> were not alike.  I was installing new Flowmasters, and after the
> operation I noticed that my original Ford mufflers were quite
> different from one another, one was a lot bigger than the other.
> Wouldn't this cause unequal back pressure and problems for my engine
> or is this some sort of assembly screw-up?
  ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

You mean at the place where quality is One Job? NAHHHH!!!

Reguards,
Tim Acton
> 
> 
> 
From: sgm@otter.hpl.hp.com (Steve Methley)
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1992 12:53:30 GMT
Subject: Re: Carburetor Cleanup
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories, Bristol, UK.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

greenfie@vtserf.cc.vt.edu (Steve Greenfield) in <3735@vtserf.cc.vt.edu>:

> When I rebuild my carburetor what should I use to clean the parts?  Do I
> need to make some kinda dipping tank and let the housing and other pieces
> soak for a long time or can I just use some kinda cleaner, rag and elbow
> grease?

You just go out and buy an aerosol can of any brand carburettor cleaner.  No
elbow grease req'd !!  It contains xylene, toluene and other nasties so wear
gloves and eye protection at least.  Work in a ventilated area.

The aerosol power works well in drillings and for small parts eg jets and
corection tubes you can spray some cleaner into say the can lid and soak these
items.

This worked really well for me on a _very_ grimey 20 year old VW Bug carb.  It
took out the gum and the oil sludge/carbon.

Hope this helps, and don't forget the safety precautions.

Cheers,
Steve (personal opinions)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: franz@cs.washington.edu (Franz G. Amador)
Subject: Are '83 Subaru brake discs removable?
Organization: Computer Science & Engineering, U. of Washington, Seattle
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 92 02:03:29 GMT

Does anybody know if the front brake rotors of an '83 Subaru GL wagon
can be removed for resurfacing?  _How_to_Keep_Your_Subaru_Alive_ says
they can, a local respected tire/brake/alignment shop says they can't.
The guy at the shop said, "A front brake job costs x, but, oops, your
car is a special case.  We can't take the rotors off, so we have to
machine them on the car, which means the job costs 4x [or something
like that]."

Obviously, given enough work, they must come off somehow.  How else
could you replace them?  Is there some sort of labor threshold
beyond which a shop will say they can't do it?

Franz Amador
franz@cs.washington.edu
{rutgers,cornell,ucsd,ubc-cs,tektronix}!uw-beaver!june!franz
From: zhoud@ece.orst.edu (Dongsheng Zhou)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Brake problem, help!
Date: 16 Apr 92 05:44:19 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Oregon State University, Corvallis


    The brake in my car has a distance which doesn't slow down the car. Unless
I push it all way down, it won't stop the car. Do you know what causes this?
The parking brake is fine. Anyway, I want to know how to fix it.

e-mail me at: zhoud@ece.orst.edu

Thanks for your help in advance.

Zhou
April 15
From: cm@cci632.cci.com (Carl Mercer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Big problem with 1990 Toyota 4x4 pickup
Keywords: Help!
Date: 8 Apr 92 15:42:55 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Computer Consoles Incorporated


This is a posting for a friend who does not have net access.  Please respond
to me and I will pass the info on.



----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 

To all Toyota V6 truck owners (or anyone who has seen this problem)
 
I own a 1990 4x4 V6 Toyota pickup and I'm getting excessive carbon build-up 
on the valves and in the combustion chamber.  I first took it in to be     
looked at when it had 17K miles on it.  The dealer told me the problem was 
the gas I was using, MOBIL super unleaded.  They did a carbon flush at    
that time.  I switched to regular unleaded gas (Atlantic, Sunoco, Hess).  
I took it back in recently with 26k miles on it and have the exact same  
problem.  They again say it is the gas and that I need another carbon flush 
(this costs some bucks).  They also say that a carbon flush is part of the 
regular maintenance of the truck.  I have a problem with this since its not 
stated in any of the manuals that a carbon flush is needed on a regular basis.   
I am getting fed up with the dealers excusses, any information as to 
the possible problems and solutions for this I would be appreciated.
 
                                                          Bob McElroy
 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
NOTE:  I also own a 1990 Toyota V6 4x4 pickup.  I have 37k miles on it 
and I have never had, nor needed a carbon flush.  The plugs were changed 
2K miles ago and were a nice light gray/tan color.  I use the same gas as
Bob (hes, Atlantic).
From: tjones@willamette.edu (Tyler Jones)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Electric cars
Keywords: electric cars
Date: 10 Apr 92 04:08:22 GMT
Article-I.D.: willamet.1992Apr10.040822.24887
Organization: Willamette University, Salem, OR

My friend and I are extremely interested in converting either my VW Bug or his
Dodge Colt to electric this summer.  There exists literature on the subject,
but is so old (from the late 70's-early 80's) that we are looking for some
current information, especially dealing with engines and batteries.  If anyone
has any sources for literature OR hardware (where to get electric engines for
this kind of thing, or where to get batteries, etc.), or has had any
experience converting a car/cars to electric, we would really appreciate some
e-mail communication.  
tjones@willamette.edu
From: borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1992 14:54:45 GMT
Subject: Re: Re: Freon Freeze! (now Hilsch (sp?) tubes)
Organization: Hewlett Packard Company, Spokane, Wa.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

In rec.autos.tech, sch@gargoyle.unx.sas.com (Steve Holzworth) writes:

>So..... how about Hilsch (probably butchered spelling) tubes? These are
>specially designed pipes that generate an internal vortex which separates
>air into cold and hot parts. Cold air comes out one end, hot air out the
>other. There is maybe one moving part. Energy source is a supply of
>compressed air.
>
>Known drawbacks: they are supposed to be noisy. (Anyone for electronic
>muffling?). The outlet air is moderately low pressure.

And you must keep the air going into them super clean if you want them
to continue working for extended periods of time.

And what about efficiency?  You can get cooling all kinds of ways, but many
are bulky, heavy, or just plain inefficient.


Donald Borowski    WA6OMI    Hewlett-Packard, Spokane Division
"Angels are able to fly because they take themselves so lightly."
                                       -G.K. Chesterton
From: jim@mwhhlaw (James P. Cavanaugh III)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Ford 200-250 swap  Any difference??
Date: 15 Apr 92 12:41:50 GMT
Organization: Martin_Wade_Hartley_&_Hollingsworth

In article <1992Apr14.154113.6316@ringer.cs.utsa.edu>  
mlaporta@lonestar.utsa.edu (Michael P. Laporta) writes:
> 
> Bout to swap the engine in the wife's car and would like to swap out  
the
> 200 for the 250,  Any differences besides a different water pump ??
> Are there any problems/ ideas I should know before doing it???
> Didn't ford just bore and stroke it ( 289-302 ) ???
> 
> Michael LaPorta     

This is just a guess, but I would be surprised if it was a simple  
bore/stroke.  The 200 was an enlarged 170, which was an enlarged 144,  
which began life in the 60 Falcons and Comets.  To me, growth from 144  
cid to 250 cid seems a bit much.  I've always wondered if the 250 was  
derived either from the 240 cid 6 that powered the big Fords in the  
60's or from the 300 cid truck 6 that's still being produced.  I too  
would be curious to hear from somebody who knows.

Jim Cavanaugh
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@cica4.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: loss of power, etc.
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 01:58:46 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 Smoke is usually a clue.

 Is your choke opening fully?

 Do the air flaps move freely (slight spring action) when the choke has
released?

 Either of these can cause too much richness. If the air flaps won't
open up the secondaries will see manifold vacuum at the venturi.

 Vacuum dropping to 0 is not too normal if you're parked. I take it this
is with the engine unloaded. You should have decent vacuum at least to
about 3000RPM or wherever the valvetrain/intake system begins to be the
airflow limit. 
 
 If you truly see a drop to 0 at unloaded medium RPM then either your
mixture is really hosed or you're not getting much valve time. I'd bet 
on mixture here. When you cleaned the carb, did you blow out the jets
and so on? I guess you have those meter rods, I dunno if those are in
or in addition to the jets. Anyhoo, you might try looking down in the 
bowl and maybe trying some gumout through the passages. 

 If you have a buddy with an old GM car see if he'll lend you his Q-Jet
(temporarily) so you can try it on your car for comparison.
--
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
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