HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: brooksby@brigham.NoSubdomain.NoDomain (Glen W Brooksby)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Aged Pine Finish
Date: 19 Aug 92 17:26:56 GMT
Followup-To: Aged Pine Finish
Organization: GE Corporate R&D Center

I believe the finish you are refering to is called
Pickled Pine.  I'v recently read about numerous ways
to accomplish this finish in various finishing books
at my local library.  Rather than attempt to duplicate
them here, I'll just refer you to your local library.
I've also seen a similar thing done to oak and heard
it referred to as 'liming'.  I haven't tried it yet.
Good Luck

Glen Brooksby
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
From: ron@pilot.njin.net (Ron Natalie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Maybe YOU can learn from MY mistake
Date: 23 Aug 92 14:56:29 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

> Use Kodak film and developing instead of Polaroid ;)

Their ain't no such thing as Kodak developing anymore (it's not
suprising that you don't knon this, I've found that nobody in Kodak
knows what anyone else in Kodak does).  The Kodalux name and the
familiar orange color was sold to Qualex, the same mass outfit that
empties the bins at K-Mart.  I found this out after having religiously
sent my film to Kodalux because they had been known for high
reliability only to have three rolls of film taken at my sister's
wedding in Taiwan destroyed by Qualex.

Stick with Polaroid, at least you know if it was developped properly
in time to take another picture.

-Ron
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: crown moulding
Reply-To: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 92 14:46:08 GMT

In article <9208112023.AA00316@pres1> "Robert J. Milevski" <milevski@PRINCETON.EDU> writes:

>I like all these uses of crown moulding but with our standard eight
>foot ceilings for modern construction, it would look like hell, or so
>my wife says.  So, no crown moulding in any of our homes.

I put up 3.5" crown moulding in my living room. It looks beautiful with
a 8' ceiling.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | There are very few personal problems which
George Patterson -  | cannot be solved by a suitable application
                    | of high explosive.
                    |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: claude@banana.fedex.com (claude bowie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: repairing a column
Keywords: wooden column antebellum
Date: 21 Aug 92 22:10:22 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: Federal Express Corp.

recently one of the 6 columns that is on the front of my home fell.
the column is very large about 14 feet tall and about 2 ft in dia.
i want to repair the column rather than replace it. unfortunantly,
i don't have my own wood working shop, so i will have to hire it done.

my question is what is the best way to repair the column? should
i take measurements and send my specs on how i want it repaired to 
a company that makes columns?

the base of the column is rotton, the house was built is 1855. should i
cutt off the base and try to match it with a new base?

since the column is so heavy, how should i attach the new base?

any ideas would be appreciated.

thanks,
claude
-- 
claude bowie			| voice:  (901)797-6332
federal express corp		| fax:    (901)797-6388
box 727-2891, memphis, tn 38194 | email:  claude@banana.fedex.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: What grits to buy?
From: rmingee@convex.com (Robert Mingee)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 14:45:47 GMT
Organization: Engineering, CONVEX Computer Corp., Richardson, Tx., USA
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by a user at CONVEX ComputerCorp. The 
 opinions expressed are those of the user andnot necessarily those of CONVEX.

I may not have enough information yet for this question to have a good answer,
but here goes:  What assortment of sandpaper grits would be good for general
use?  I am looking for sanding disks for a Bosch 5" sander, and saw the posting
yesterday about Quaker State.  They have disks in the following grits:
80,100,120,150,220,320.  You can buy packs of 100 (50 each of any 2 grits)
for $27, or they have another 100 pc assortment (25 each of 80,120,150,220) for
$30.  I haven't done much of any work yet, so I don't know what kinds of wood
I will be dealing with, but the things I would like to build are basic furniture
for the house (tables, etc.), and I will have a number of things to refinish.
is the 4/25 assortment a good range of grits?  Or would I be better off choosing
50 bundles of other grits?

Any and all advice is appreciated!

Thanks,
-- robert
-- 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Robert Mingee		 |     "The problem with the future is that it keeps
CONVEX Computer Corp.    |	turning into the present"  -- Hobbes
rmingee@convex.com	 |
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Wed, 12 Aug 1992 08:42:48 EDT
From:         FABY000 <FABY@NMUMUS.BITNET>
Subject:      Portable Thickness Planers

Rick; I have the Ryobi portable planer and have been very pleased
with it.  The only problem I must watch is the snipe that occurs
near the end of the board.  I have not used stationary planers
so cannot compare.  I believe for the home shop the portable
planer is probably sufficient in most cases.  Roger Barry
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jeffz@cray.com (Jeff Zais)
Subject: Emperor Clock Kits - any experiences?
Organization: Cray Research, Inc
Date: 18 Aug 92 12:23:05 CDT

I'm getting serious about purchasing a grandfather clock kit from the 
Emperor Clock Company catalog.  Does anyone out there have any 
experience with these kits (or other clock kits from other makers)?
Post here or e-mail directly to me.

                                             Thanks, 

                                             Jeff Zais
                                             jeffz@cray.com
From: mark@valjean.radonc.washington.edu (Mark Phillips)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Water based top coats, paste fillers.
Date: 19 Aug 92 17:00:17 GMT
Reply-To: mark@valjean.radonc.washington.edu
Organization: University of Washington

I've used the Varathane Diamond Finish to finish a fir floor and a maple  
countertop.  No problems with bubbling.  To get a really high gloss
thick surface on the countertop (in anticipation of major abuse), I needed  
about 5 coats--maybe more than are needed with other finishes.  But since  
you can recoat so fast and it only took a quart for a 3' x 9' top, I  
didn't find that a problem.  One very major advantage, especially when  
doing a surface as big as a floor, is the orders of magnitude less fumes.   
I did one small bedroom floor with the traditional polyuretahne, and it  
made the house unlivable for a day.  I need to reserve what few brain  
cells I have left so I can kill them off with alcohol.

In any case, I recommend the Diamond Finish.  Only drawback I can see is  
it is more expensive.

Mark Phillips
Dept of Radiation Oncology
University of Washington
From: tpc@bnr.ca (Thomas P. Chmara)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Water based top coats, paste fillers.
Date: 18 Aug 92 21:06:38 GMT
Reply-To: tpc@bnr.ca
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.

In article <1992Aug18.165929.8770@morrow.stanford.edu>, acuff@sumex-aim.stanford.edu (Richard Acuff) writes:
|> In article <1992Aug17.205606.28070@scic.intel.com>, hwilson@scic.intel.com (Howard Wilson) writes:
|> 
|> > ...I am considering trying out one of
|> > these newer water based polyurethane top coats (varathane diamond).
|> > 
|> > Has anyone used these?
|> > How do you like them?
|> > How is the finish compared to their pertroleum based relatives?  
|> > Can they be applied over oil based stains or paste fillers?
|> 
|> I used Deft Safe and Easy Gloss polyurethane on some oak stair treads
|> recently.  I used a Deft water-based stain after sanding to 320 grit.  I was
|> not impressed.  After five coats, with very light sanding between the 1'st
|> three, the gloss level was nothing like what I'm used to from regular
|> Varathane, and I had a hell of a time with bubbles, despite trying a number
|> of different techniques for application.  I used a foam brush.

I have used Varathane Diamond Finish on a number of projects, and it's now my
finish of choice (I have 3 young boys; I *need* tough finishes on my projects).
It's easy to apply (no bubbles):  I've sprayed (Krebs airless sprayer) and
brushed, with uniformly good results.  It dries quickly (1h dry-to-touch),
has minimal odour, and the water-washup is a delightful experience when I
harken back on those Varsol days..  The finish is extremely hard, and the
gloss level (for those times when I've used a gloss finish) is very good; just
remember to stir more often than with standard finishes.
	---tpc---
-- 
I am sole owner of the above opinions. These opinions are furnished without
warranty or liability expressed or implied.  Your mileage may vary.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tom Chmara, P.Eng.|  INTERNET:  tpc@x400gate.bnr.ca	|  Fone:  (613)765-2925
BNR Ltd.	  |  					|  FAX:   (613)763-2626
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: wilson@schaefer.math.wisc.edu (Bob Wilson)
Subject: Re: Sawblade Stabilizers
Reply-To: wilson@schaefer.UUCP (Bob Wilson)
Organization: Univ. of Wisconsin Dept. of Mathematics
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 92 15:01:33 GMT

In article <1992Aug17.230932.22144@adobe.com> bennett@adobe.com writes:
>
(Much good stuff deleted...)
>Also note that even if you can remove the inner flange, replacing it with a  
>stabilizer may not be a good thing to do.
>
>- Bennett Leeds
>bennett@adobe.com
I'd like to second that. This flange is what makes the blade
perpendicular to the arbor. The stabilizer, with its fraction of an
inch of thickness, certainly can't do that: It depends on the flange
as a reference. Notice the Unisaw ads which make a point of how this
flange is machined after the arbor is assembled into its bearings:
Other saws may not be that well made but it makes clear how important
this flange is! Without it I would expect to see runout you could
measure with a yard stick :^)
Bob Wilson
wilson@math.wisc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bernie_marasco@stortek.com (bernie marasco)
Subject: HELP! Can't find replacement belt for sander
Summary: HELP! Can't find replacement belt for sander
Keywords: sander,belt
Organization: StorageTek
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 15:18:54 GMT

I inherited a "Power House" hand belt sander Model #72110 from my father.
It must be atleast 25 years old and I can't seem to find any replacement 
belts for it (4" X 21 3/4").  Does anyone out in net land know of where 
I might find a replacement belt?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

--
Bernie Marasco
bernie_marasco@stortek.com
From: ron@pilot.njin.net (Ron Natalie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: edging for plywood
Date: 15 Aug 92 19:43:17 GMT
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

> I haven't been pleased with my results in placing wood edges around
> plywood.  

I use the preglued veneer stuff.  It works ok for me.  I use a small
hand iron (the kind they sell for such purposes) that I got second
hand for $10.

> Also, biscuits wouldn't seem to me to work well with plywood, but I've
> never tried.  Do you have an opinion regarding this?

I was initially skeptical about that, so I made a test piece.  Using
three bicuits I joined 2 36" wide 3/4" plywood pieces at right angles.
I was not able to break the joint.  I've got a number of plywood
bookcases now that are held together with biscuits.  None exhibits
any problems.

My initial reference for all this was an article on plywood furniture
constructions that's in one of the FineWoodworking anthologies.

-Ron
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jjoslin@kingcong.UWaterloo.ca (Jeff Joslin)
Subject: Re:      Water based finishes
Summary:  Just say yes.
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 19:01:39 GMT

In article "Tom Freelove -- Extension Communications" writes:
>I have used a water based finish (Varathane, I think...) once when
>refinishing hardwood floors.  Never again!!!  As others mentioned, it
>raised the grain terribly, was next to impossible to apply without
>getting bubbles, plus discolored to a milky yellow and showed over-lap
>markes very distinctly.  I took the stuff back for a refund on the
>unopend cans.  I did another floor with poly, and though it smelled bad
>for a few days, it turned out great.

Yes, water-based finishes raise the grain.  Put on one coat, wait for
it to dry (typically one to two hours) and sand with 240-grit.  No more 
raised grain.

There are some important differences in applying water-based finishes 
versus the organic-solvent based ones.  In my experience, the most 
important factors are to (1) stir, not shake (no matter *what* James
Bond says); (2) don't fuss with the finish too much - just brush
it on with a smooth stroke which overlaps the previous.  If a few bubbles
form, leave them alone, and they'll probably burst on their own in a 
few minutes.  The most important point is (3):  use a brush with
tapered synthetic bristles.  The most expensive brushes intended for
latex paints have feathered ends, which tend to induce foaming.  Disposable 
foam brushes work just fine, and they can be rinsed out and reused as long as
the foam is still holding up.  According to a couple of finishing articles
I've read, there is an "anti-foaming agent" available to add to water-based
polyurethanes.  I've never been able to find any, though.

Water-based finishes seem to require more coats.  I normally sand with 
240-grit silicon carbide paper between coats, and then sand the last coat
up to 320-grit or 600-grit, depending on how glossy a finish I want.  The
start-to-finish time for water-based finishes is longer than solvent-based
finishes, but I find the total labor to be less because each coat goes
on quicker (because of the no-fussing rule), and cleanup is *much* faster.
The lack of odor is a bonus, as is the warm fuzzy feeling I get knowing
that I've made the environmentally responsible choice.

Jeff
-- 
Jeff Joslin                            University of Waterloo grad student

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: trifid@agora.uucp (Roadster Racewerks)
Subject: Re: Exposed wiring and the NEC.
Organization: Open Communications Forum
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 1992 08:39:29 GMT



Building codes of all sorts vary WIDELY from one jurisdiction to another...

*Amazingly* might be a better choice of word...

Perhaps illogical, too.... :-)

In some parts of the country they exist mostly for safety, or an attempt to
standardize with Federal rules. In others they are primarily to protect jobs
by making it hard for untrained help (or homeowners) to do the job without
hiring a professional.

Knowing the pertinent national standard (or your old state's codes) may prove
less than useless...

I won't even consider the differences in standards in other countries.  :-)

Suze
From: ronw@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Ron Whitetree)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Zinc hardware with Redwood
Date: 12 Aug 92 17:42:42 GMT
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server

In building my redwood deck I was careful to use all hot-dipped nails to
prevent black staining of the wood surface. I have some zinc 3/8-4 lag 
bolts that I would like to use for fome overhead beams. Will the zinc
discolor the wood surface?

Ron
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: dmb@IEDV4.acd.com ( Dave Barker )
Subject: Re: An UnGrizzly Tale
Keywords: bandsaw minimax loganberry
Organization: Applied Computing Devices, Inc., Terre Haute IN
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 21:49:26 GMT

In article <1992Aug12.144825.12034@watson.ibm.com> rhoover@watson.ibm.com (Roger Hoover) writes:
>An UnGrizzly Tale

  [interesting tale regarding decision to purchase minimax bandsaw deleted...]
>
>Standard equipment: 1.8hp motor, adjustable angle rip
>fence, dust collector port, 16mm 4tpi blade, metric open
>end and hex wrenches for all adjustments, poorly
>translated multi-lingual instruction manual, and as a nice
>touch, a shop apron with the Arbor logo (MiniMax is called
>Arbor in Italy).
>
>Equipment required:
>visa card with high credit limit
>hand cart
>county map to show Mr Truck Driver the location of Broad Street
>loganberry pie for heavy lifters:
>
  [loganberry pie recipe deleted..only for sake of saving net space]

>roger hoover
>rhoover@watson.ibm.com

	I've had a Minimax bandsaw for several years now and would be hard
	pressed to do without. I use the saw not only for resawing, but general
	ripping duties as well. It's a lot safer and faster (I think) than
	ripping with a table saw. The cut is rougher, but I just follow the
	old adage, "Rip first, joint second", or whatever it is. 
	Anyway, it's a smooth running saw. Much smoother than the 14 inch
	Delta-clone I had before. It's so smooth, there is little if any
	noticeable vibration when the motor is running.

	The only thing I would like to see changed are the guides. The bottom
	guides are hard to adjust and seem too small. I've heard that 
	the Carter company is supposed to be coming out with replacement
	guides for the saw (Carter makes guides for industrial saws.)
	Does anybody have any experience with Carter guides?


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: lff@sequent.com (Lou Fernandez)
Subject: Re: 1x joists (was: An UnGrizzly Tale, and too tall stuff)
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems Inc.
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 92 17:01:34 GMT

In article <Aug.13.08.48.24.1992.1183@pilot.njin.net> ron@pilot.njin.net (Ron Natalie) writes:
>> Before anyone knocks holes in ceilings checking on this, I worked in
>> construction trades for nearly 15 years and I've never seen a house with
>> 1x12 joists.
>
>Actually, George, I've never seen a house with 1-by-anything joists.
>And it's all a matter of how far they've got to span, but you're
>right 2x12 joists are unusual.
>
>-Ron

I owned a house with 1x12 joists.  Built in Belmont, Mass. around 1860.
These were 2nd floor ceiling joists on about 16" centers spanning about
14'.  Clearly, putting a room in the attic would be a major project in
this house!

My friend Rush the rehab carpenter says 1x framing and other marginal
structural practices were not unusual in late 19th century American
construction, at least in the mid-west where he works.  He attributes
this to a combination of builders' desire to save money, their ignorance
of the technology, and the lack of competent building inspection.  It
seems to me the world hasn't changed much in this regard in the last
century.

...Lou

-- 
Louis F. Fernandez			Sequent Computer Systems
lfernandez@sequent.com			Beaverton, OR 97006-6063
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: cohill@vtserf.cc.vt.edu (Andrew M. Cohill)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Red Oak beams
Keywords: beams, red oak, post and beam
Date: 13 Aug 92 17:35:08 GMT
Organization: Fire in the Mountain

In article <1992Aug12.173914.16962@nsisrv.gsfc.nasa.gov> bill@quercus.gsfc.nasa.gov (Bill Kovalick) writes:
>A bud-bud-buddy of mine has a bud-bud-buddy that would like to
>locate some red oak beams for post and beam construction. This

Red oak down here is some of the cheapest wood you can buy at the local
mills.  I'm partly guessing, but for say, a 1000 board feet, I doubt you
would pay more than $0.50 a bd. ft., and even that might be high. 

'Down here' is southwestern Virginia.  Shipping large beams to Vermont
is probably going to cost more than the wood....



-- 
|          ...we have to look for routes of power our teachers never       
|              imagined, or were encouraged to avoid.   T. Pynchon          
|                    
|Andrew Cohill        cohill@vtserf.cc.vt.edu            VPI&SU                                                  
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: kosicki@ratchet.Prime.COM (Bernie Kosicki)
Subject: Re: Need advice on a rota-hammer
Reply-To: kosicki@ratchet.Prime.COM (Bernie Kosicki)
Organization: Prime Computer R&D
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 12:26:45 GMT

I have a buddy who is a professional cement finisher.  He basically does
any kind of cement work except pouring foundations.  He has a Hitachi
hammer-drill which he purchased about a year ago, and raves about all
the time.  It's pretty big, I beleive it weighs 13 pounds.  One drawback
is that it is priced high.  He did give me a demo, and it put a hole in
his basement floor with virtually no effort at all (his wife wasn't
impressed).


Bernie Kosicki
kosicki@s35.Prime.com
Xref: sparky rec.woodworking:5609 rec.autos.tech:11220
From: basiji@milton.u.washington.edu (David Basiji)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Harbor Freight and Salvage
Date: 17 Aug 92 17:22:38 GMT
Article-I.D.: milton.basiji.714072158
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Washington


I've had very mixed, but overall positive, results from HFS (there's no "and").
I was a staff contractor for a large building and had a really tight budget
but, as everyone knows, if you need the tools, you need the tools. I bought
over $2000 worth of stuff.  80% was of acceptable quality (mostly low-tech
stuff, including tape and rope and hand tools) 10 was a real steal (inc.
a cutoff saw that should have cost twice as much) and 10% was junk
(including a router).  They accepted the returned item without a hitch.
After a while, you can spot their bargains just from reading the catalog
and it can be quite a symbiotic relationship.

Re:I will save it till Halloween and use
the sockets as projectiles and throw them at the kids who steal
my pumpkins every year.  I'm sure they are not nearly as good as
my Snap-On or Craftsman (hack, hurl...) socket sets.

I've found that a wrist rocket in conjunction with almost any size
1/4" drive socket is a most effective repellent (plus they act as tracers
when they hit the asphalt) .

;o)

Dave
-- 
David Basiji 
"C neophyte, Bioengineering Grad Student, Internet Personality"

email: basiji@u.washington.edu          
NeXTmail: basiji@larry.pathology.washington.edu

		"Whining is just anger coming out of a very small hole."
            --Stuart Smalley
From: jrdailey@cbnewse.cb.att.com (j.rex.dailey)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Band Saw and wood lathe
Date: 12 Aug 92 21:29:54 GMT
Article-I.D.: cbnewse.1992Aug12.212954.3268
Distribution: na
Organization: AT&T

In article <01GNHQS5RJTU8Y512G@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM>,         RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM writes:
> I've been looking at the add's for reliant 14" band saws too. I haven't
> broken down and gotten one yet (I'd like to hear from owners too); but,
> I've seen ocasional mail order sale prices of $280 - $300 including shipping.
> 
> 
>                                 Ron

Ron,

I hope I don't break your spirit or enthusiasm, but it has been my
experience that you usually get what you pay for.

Rex Dailey
jrdailey @ cbnewse.cb.att.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stevenj@microsoft.com (Steven Johnson)
Subject: Planing thin strips
Date: 13 Aug 92 15:16:23 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp.

Every so often, I've read about methods for planing thin strips of
wood (like from 1/4 inch to 1/16" in thickness).  But I've never
had to do it myself, until now.  I'd like to hear suggestions from
everyone who's successfully done this as to what's the best method.
Unless I hear otherwise, I think attaching the strips to a wooden
sled and running the whole thing through the planer is the way to
go, but what do you use to attach the strips to the sled?  It's
got to be flat, strong, and easily disconnected.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: rmartin@crchh109.bnr.ca (Richard Martin)
Subject: Re: Sawblade Stabilizers
Reply-To: rmartin@crchh109.bnr.ca (Richard Martin)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Richardson, Tx
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 21:52:50 GMT


This is my first post to the net. I hope it works OK.  
I too am interested in learning if sawblade stabilizers can be used on an 
older 10" craftsman tablesaw.  Can the inner piece that seems to be pressed 
onto the arbor be removed.  If not, then using the stabilizers move the blade
over too much and interferes with the table insert.