HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car

/ hpcc01:rec.audio.car / robb@ais.org (Robert Gonyer) / 10:17 pm  Nov 14, 1992 /
>takes to go up 1 volt.  Pretty simple.  I'll test it out tonight and
>see if I got the deal of the century or a can of junk.
>
>Kirk (hey, for $3.25??) out
>
>PS:  I woundn't pay $125 for a capacitor!
>
I was at a electronic store once, and he had a used 20V 600,000
cap that he gave me for $5.  I hooked it up and let it charge,
then started my system up, and unhooked the battery leaving only
the cap to supply my amps and headunit/changer.  It actually played
loud for a few seconds.
----------

My home amp will drive my a/d/s M15 monitors for 13 seconds after it is
switched off (at moderate listening levels).

Makes me wonder about putting capacitors everywhere.  I'd make sure I
didn't charge them through your ignition switch as the current would
destroy it much sooner than you'd like.  I'd probably only hook them
direct to the battery?  Anyone else thought about this?  I was thinking
about putting caps inside the amp and figured it would eat fuses.

Kirk out
From: hhtra@usho21.hou281.chevron.com (T.M.Haddock)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Do those CD players skip? Are they any good?
Date: 18 Nov 92 23:05:00 GMT
Organization: Chevron

In article <1ee5kaINNiik@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>, mxl38@po.CWRU.Edu (Michel Labrousse) writes:
|> 
|> I'd like to get one of these in-dash CD players but I've read on this newsgroup
|> that some of you had troubles with CDs skipping. My car is a Honda Civic 1992
|> and I was wondering if any of you knew about those:
|> Sony CDX-5180
|> Kenwood KDC 85 R
|> Pioneer DEH 680, DEH 880, DEH 980
|> 
|> I don't need the specifications, I've got them. I'm more interested in the kind
|> of problems you may have had or heard about (skipping for instance). 
|> Thanks a lot in advance!

 If any good model is installed correctly and very securely
 they wouldn't skip unless you hit something causing harsh
 vibrations.

 BTW, several local dealer's have been steering people away
 from the Sony's for reliability problems - so THEY say.

 TRAVIS
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From:  (OJM)
Subject: Re: Do those CD players skip? Are they any good?
Followup-To: rec.audio.car
Organization: University of Oslo
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 09:56:43 GMT

In article <1ee5kaINNiik@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>, mxl38@po.CWRU.Edu (Michel
Labrousse) wrote:
> 
> 
> I'd like to get one of these in-dash CD players but I've read on this newsgroup
> that some of you had troubles with CDs skipping. My car is a Honda Civic 1992
> and I was wondering if any of you knew about those:
> Sony CDX-5180
> Kenwood KDC 85 R
> Pioneer DEH 680, DEH 880, DEH 980

I have one of the older Pioneer - DEH 760 - and I have only had problems
with skipping when it was very cold (i.e. -5 to -10 deg. Celcius.) And then
only the first kilometers until the player was warm. I spoke to the dealer
and he told me that the new series Pioneer is much better than the old and
that he used one in a 4WD vehicle (=stiff) and had no trouble with
skipping. Well take that for what it is - the words from a salesman, but I
you don`t have the cold weather that I have you should not be bothered with
skipping if you buy one of the newer Pioneers.

> 
> I don't need the specifications, I've got them. I'm more interested in the kind
> of problems you may have had or heard about (skipping for instance). 
> Thanks a lot in advance!
> 
> Michel
From: kirk@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Kirk Lindstrom)
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 18:03:42 GMT
Subject: Re: Do those CD players skip? Are they any good?
Organization: Shredding the water of SF Bay, HP-OCD
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car


 BTW, several local dealer's have been steering people away
 from the Sony's for reliability problems - so THEY say.

 TRAVIS
----------
Without unbiased facts like those of Consumer Reports, dealers could be
steering people away from Sony due to profit margins.

Kirk out
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: gianos@leland.Stanford.EDU (Edward Alexander Gianos)
Subject: Re: Adhesive for particle board/carpet
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 92 20:02:56 GMT

In article <16NOV199208351749@zeus.tamu.edu> rkb6116@zeus.tamu.edu (MR. WEATHER) writes:
>Okay, okay, okay- I know this is a FAQ, but what's the best adhesive to
>attach automotive grade carpet to particle board?
>

I've had great luck with 3M spray adhesives.....

kinda sprays like silly string, and then cements rock hard .....

ed



Newsgroups: rec.audio.car,alt.locksmithing,alt.tasteless
From: cal@ee.ryerson.ca (Calvin Henry-Cotnam)
Subject: Re: Car alarms
Organization: Ryerson Polytechnical Institute, Toronto
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 19:04:59 GMT

rboudrie@chpc.org (Rob Boudrie) writes:
>>>[request about what to do about loud car alarms at 1:00 am deleted]
>
>How about a difficult to remove sticker which reads :
>
>   "People whose cars do not sound
>   obnixious false alarms don't have
>   to scrape stickers like this off
>   their windows"
>
>Be sure the sticker is small and goes at the base of the window so that 
>it does not dangerously obstruct vision.


Better still, make sure the sticker is VERY large and basically blocks
the whole window so that the car is rendered useless until it is removed.
ie: so big that a dangerous attempt to move the car won't occur.

Cal.
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: moskowit@panix.com (Len Moskowitz)
Subject: Sources for Solobaric S-10?
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 14:23:10 GMT
Organization: PANIX Public Access Unix, NYC



Would someone please recommend a shop that sells the Kicker Solobaric
S-10 at a low price?
-- 
Len Moskowitz
moskowit@panix.com
From: hhtra@usho21.hou281.chevron.com (T.M.Haddock)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Buying a crossover, how to choose?
Date: 18 Nov 92 23:11:08 GMT
Organization: Chevron

In article <6994@dove.nist.gov>, keys@starchild.ncsl.nist.gov (Lawrence B. Keys) writes:
|> 
|> I know that i need a crossover.  I have a basic understanding of
|> what crossovers do, but i am not sure how to determine what kind of
|> crossover i need, for my application.  So, tell me what to buy!
|> 
|> My head unit has four RCA outputs.
|> I have one 4 channel amp, and a 2 channel which will be bridged to
|> 1 channel.  I have two sets of components.  A set for the front, and
|> a set for the rear.  Each has a pair of passive crossovers, however, the
|> crossover only "serves" the tweeter (the mid driver operates full range).
|> I have a single dual voice coil sub in a ported enclosure.
|> 
|> I would like to limit the frequencies channeled to each of the mid bass
|> drivers.  I would like to limit the frequencies channeled to the sub.
|> 
|> I am interested in a unit which can be trunk mounted. I would like to
|> retain the ability to fade from front to rear.
|> 
|> Basically, i want a good quality active crossover, but i don't want to 
|> buy more than is necessary.
|> 
|> 	-	What kind of crossover do i need? 
|> 	-	2 way, 3 way?
|> 	-	which is better 6db,12db,18db or 24db/octave?
|> 	-	continously variable, plug-in modules?
|> 
|> I've looked at an Audio Control 2XS $115, 4XS $199, and PPI FRX 322 $250.

 I'd recommend the Audio Control 4XS.


|> For some reason that i don't understand there seems to be many more 2 way
|> crossovers available than 3 way, even in the higher price range.

 Maybe because there are more 2 channel amps than 4 channel?  If you have
 a single 2 channel amp, what use is a 3 way?  If you have multiple amps,
 then you can use a 3 way or multiple 2 ways.  

 Of course, I may be wrong.


 TRAVIS
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: sujan@stein.u.washington.edu (Sujan Punyamurthula)
Subject: Display light in car stereo
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 19:04:06 GMT

Hi,
The display bulb in my car stereo conked off. The 
stereo works fine but I need to swtich on the inside
light to tune a station! How difficult is it to
replace the display light bulb- I am no great
mechanic . The car stereo came with the car
Its an 84 Chevy Celebrity. Thanks in advance
sj

(sujan@u.washington.edu)


Newsgroups: rec.audio.car,alt.locksmithing,alt.tasteless
From: psionic@wam.umd.edu (Sixth Plane of Hell)
Subject: Re: Car alarms
Organization: University of Maryland, College Park
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 20:50:00 GMT

In article <1992Nov16.052253.6048@u.washington.edu> miolnir@stein.u.washington.edu (Scot Thorstad) writes:
>
>  Anyone have any particularly nasty things to do to the bastards 
>whose car alarms start screaming a 1:00 am and never shut up?
>(I expect something good from you a.t people)
>scot

Ok well if the alarm is annoying you I suggest you get a small pair of
tree pruners and place them in your hand. 

Second you approach the offending vehicle and crawl underneath with the 
pruners. 

Third take said pruners and cut the positive line on the battery cable.

The alarm should now be silent.


Now for my last 2 cents before this subject dies.

On the subject of false alarms. What it boils down to is the equipment and 
the installation. If you use cheap equipment you get cheap results. There
are many "professional" alarm systems that are cheap and false quite a bit.
If you see cars that have these alarms and you know they are falsing make
a mental note of it and don't buy those systems. .

Also the installation is important. Many times faulty adjustment on the
shock sensors creates false alarms. What people don't realize is that you
don't need to set these devices so that if you touch the car they
activate. This is useless because you get an alarm that falses during
rainstorms and when people walk by. In other words you get the boy
who cries wolf. These sensors are designed to detect hard shocks to the car's
body and glass. They are not made to detect when your car is lightly hit with 
a car door in a parking lot, or when somoeone leans on your car. If you car
alarm can detect these things you will get false alarms.

To whoever recommended pager systems. You are right. The only person who
cares about a car alarm going off is the owner of the vehicle!! The sound
of the alarm is to potentially bring attention to the vechicle and scare
off the offender. Generally though people will not call the police for you.
In my car I have an audible and silent alarm. So I get the best of both worlds
I usually recommend that most other people do the same..

psionic@wam.umd.edu
From: rob.runkle@cccbbs.UUCP (Rob Runkle) 
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: RE: CAR ALARMS!
Date: 22 Nov 92 16:17:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Cincinnati Computer Connection BBS - Cincinnati, OH - 513-752-8248
Reply-To: rob.runkle@cccbbs.UUCP (Rob Runkle) 

Rob,
-> since we are on the topic, exactly how should one set the alarm
-> sensitivity? mr Runkle just said that slapping the bumper  wasnt a
-> good enough test. i know that my car has to be smacked pretty hard in
-> order to set off the alarm.
       I guess this is an alright way to set the alarm but don't be
totally surprised if it does go off sometimes.  The other thing is
that people have differant opinions on what should set the alarm off.
Personally I would like it if the thing went off if someone were to ding
my car with their door.  If not to possibly catch them, then to scare
the s**t out of them anyway.  Unfortunatly this setting does not exist
with out false alarms.  It sounds as if you got yours set properly Mr.
Maggio.  Another thing....If you use false alarms to set the
sensors...Consider the fact that a thief may be setting your system off
for you to get you to set the sensors low or maybe even to turn the
alarm off so he can take over.   Watch for excessive false alarms when
you haven't had many before.  I do suggest that you get the thing set as
soon as possible so that you don't tick your neighbors off though.
        As for the glass sensor I leave mine on the factory settign
cause every time I try to change it I am not satisfied.
                Later,  Rob Runkle
From: hhtra@usho21.hou281.chevron.com (T.M.Haddock)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re:
Date: 19 Nov 92 23:51:17 GMT
Organization: Chevron

In article <CMM.0.90.4.722179090.clane@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>, clane@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (bored-out-of-my-skull) writes:
|> 
|> So Sony isnt making the changers that will work with the XR series anymore?
|> 
|> I was just going to ask that,  shit!  I suppose when I graduate and get a
|> real car i will have to buy another stereo...........

 But, you'll want to do that anyway, right?

 I mean, by the time YOU graduate, your system will be way obsolete!  :)

 TRAVIS
Organization: Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1992 13:33:39 -0500 
From: Ken Sacks <ks2q+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Alpine car stereo

    Alpine casstte radio 7294s 
      Dolby B/C
      full logic transport
      music search
      blank skip and every other feature
    you could want in a tape player.
      will also control a same brand changer
     25 watts internal amp and dual pre-outs
      it is also pull out
      half year old and in perfect condition
    
      $340  call 521-4110 or email
From: dans@panix.com (Dan Simoes)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: How to reduce alternator whine
Date: 23 Nov 92 16:54:47 GMT
Organization: PANIX Public Access Unix & Internet, NYC


Could someone please post a description of how to reduce or eliminate 
alternator whine coming through an amp using capacitors?

I asked this once before, but didn't understand the replies.
I rewired the amp using RCA shielded, gold-plug wires which run on
the side of the car opposite the power wires (amp is trunk-mounted).
The amp's power and ground are run directly to the battery, and the 
trigger wire comes from the head unit.

The noise only starts when the car is started, and persists no matter
if it's tape or radio playing.  Also, the volume of the noise is
consistent, does not increase with the music volume.

So, I guess the question is:  how will a capacitor help me?
What size capacitor should I use?
Where and how is it bridged into the power circuit?

Rough diagram:


+ ***** _    spkr       spkr
|       |      \         /
|       | ..... \ RADIO / """""""" (RCA)
|       | .                      "
|       | .                      "
|       | . (trigger)            "
|       | .........              "
|        - - - - - (-)AMP"""""""""
 - - - - - - - - - (+)AMP
                 /       \  
                /         \  
               /           \  
            spkr          spkr

Pleaase post, as I've seen this question before, and I think others would
benefit from this info as well.

Equipment:
Radio: Yamaha YCR-30
Amp: Pyramid Gold 20f/40rear (only rear power is used)
Front speakers: Nakamichi 3.5" SP35
Rear Speakers: EPI LS-70X

Car: 1986 VW Jetta GLI

Thanks!

| Dan |

Dan Simoes                                       Voice: 914.747.2900 x415
Danix Consulting                                 email: dans@panix.com or
Yorktown Heights, NY                                     dans@danix.uucp
-- 
Dan Simoes                                       Voice: 914.747.2900 x415
Danix Consulting                                 email: dans@panix.com or
Yorktown Heights, NY                                     dans@danix.uucp
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: rob.runkle@cccbbs.UUCP (Rob Runkle) 
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: RE: CAR ALARMS
Date: 17 Nov 92 00:09:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Cincinnati Computer Connection BBS - Cincinnati, OH - 513-752-8248
Reply-To: rob.runkle@cccbbs.UUCP (Rob Runkle) 

-> WHAT!?!  The cretinous offspring of leeches and palmetto bugs whose
-> alarms wake one in the middle of the night deserve to have their
-> vision obstructed. And by stronger means than a sticker, I might add.
-> Like a nice HIV infected syringe (available at finer crack houses
-> anywhere) could be used to slowly extract the intra-ocular fluid from
-> their eyeballs.  Then one could gently rub the lens of the eye
-> against the retina.  At first they would probably see incredibly
-> bright sparks.  Then, as the visual nerve endings die, the sparks
-> would get dimmer and dimmer.  To make them feel better about it, you
-> could then give then a nice stiff shot of their own EyeFluid (tm).
-> BTW Palmetto bugs are a cockroach like bug which inhabit Florida.
-> They are wonderul.  Well that's not completely accurate.  P-bugs are
-> to cock- roaches as Mack Trucks are to Honda Civics.  Wonderfully
-> tasteless, and they make a great "CRRUNCH" when you step on them.
-> Smell pretty raunchy too.

Are you on Drugs or just weird?
                Later, Rob Runkle
                                                                              
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: meiser@cps.msu.edu (Matthew E Meiser)
Subject: head unit suggestions
Originator: meiser@caspian.cps.msu.edu
Reply-To: meiser@cps.msu.edu (Matthew E Meiser)
Organization: Dept. of Computer Science, Michigan State University
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 92 04:47:28 GMT


	I just finished installing new speakers and an amp in my new car, 
an '85 T-Bird. For the time being, I kept the factory stereo for now, but I
would like to replace it with a relatively inexpensive AM/FM/cassette head
unit. I am looking for something with the following features:

	Good FM tuner.
	Good cassette, with as good of a frequency response as possible.
	Jack for a portable CD player (since I can't afford an in-dash unit).
	
I wanted to get a pullout, but I was reading the Crutchfield catalog, and 
it says that the T-Bird can't use a pullout without "major modifications".
Has anyone ever installed a pullout in an '85-'88 T-Bird or Cougar  
(they all use the same dash assembly)? If not, Is it really worth getting
a removable face unit (if you can even use these in the T-Bird?).
I have not really seen anything like I want. Someone told me that Coustic
makes some units with the features I want, but I haven't been able to find 
any information about Coustic head units. 
	If anyone knows of a head unit with these features, please reply to 
me at the address below.

Thanks, Matt
meiser@student.msu.edu

PS - I would like to spend under $200 if at all possible.
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: dscott@ccu.umanitoba.ca (Doug Scott)
Subject: ** SONY XR-U330 question? **
Summary: ** SONY XR-U330 question **
Organization: University of Manitoba, Winnipeg, Canada
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 15:43:41 GMT

This may seem like a really dumb question, but...

My friend, who has a sony controller/disk 10 changer showed 
me how to change the face colour between green & orange
but I don't have an Illumination button!
Its not in the manual so I am not optimistic about it.

PS. My dash is light green and the SONY is orange(puke)

email me as I don't read news often..thanks in advance..
Doug Scott  
               dscott@ccu.UManitoba.CA
 
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: trw@spl1.spl.loral.com (Tim R Witort)
Subject: Re: How do you change two RCA outputs to four?
Organization: Loral Software Productivity Laboratory
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 21:11:03 GMT

In article <kmr4.290.722314495@po.CWRU.edu>, kmr4@po.CWRU.edu (Keith M. Ryan) writes:
|> In article <1992Nov20.233122.27409@wdl.loral.com> trw@spl1.spl.loral.com (Tim R Witort) writes:
|> 							       X
|> >                                                   /=====||||XXX
|> >                                        X   X     //       ^  X
|> >  single RCA channel ==============||||XXX XXX|||===<<      males
|> 
|> >                                     ^  X   X     \\       v  x
|> >                                     |      |      \=====||||XXX
|> >                                   male   female	       X
|> >
|> 
|> 
|> 	PLEASE REFRAIN FROM POSTING SEXUALLY EXPLICITE PICTURES, WHICH 
|> CLEARLY SHOW MALE AND FEMALE GENITALIA ON REC.CAR.AUDIO! 
|> 
|> 	( I have properly censored the picture)


   Forgive me.  There is no excuse for my blatant disregard for
the sensibilities of the members of this newsgroup.  I throw
myself on the mercy of the compassionate graces of this forum.

sincerely repentant,
-- Tim
From: kmr4@po.CWRU.edu (Keith M. Ryan)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Crossover impedance
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 04:40:22 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University
NNTP-Posting-Host: b64746.student.cwru.edu

In article <1992Nov19.215448.13606@scott.skidmore.edu> jreiser@scott.skidmore.edu (Jason Reiser... Asleep) writes:
>> I have two mono, two-way passive crossovers (xo pt. is 3kHz, -12dB/
>> octave).  The box says that the crossovers are "8 ohms".  I assume
>> that this means that to an amplifier, they appear as 8 ohm loads.
>> But how is the power actually distributed? Specifically, if I have
>> 30 watts into 4 ohms being delivered to this crossover which calls
>> itself 8 ohms, which then sends the signal to a 4 ohm woofer and a
>> 4 ohm tweeter, what power is delivered to the woofer and to the
>> tweeter?
>
>You've got the concept a bit confused...
>Actually, the crossover is not a load and as such will not have any
>particular impedance.  

exsqueeze me?

Capacitors and Inductors very much have inpedences. 

The impedence of a capacitor is : Z(c)=1/(jwC)
The Impedence of an inductor is : Z(l)=jwL

Now, depending on how you connect then, you figure the total impedence. 

	Think about it, if a capacitor is blocking bass, it much be acting 
as an impedence source at low frequencies ( you can think of it as sort of a 
resistance at low freq. not quite correct, but you get the picture ). The 
inductor is the opposite. It has a high impedence at high freqencies. 

>The impedance listed on the crossover is
>instead the speaker impedance that will give standard performance of
>-12db/octave at 3kHz.  

	This is correct. The listed impedance is not the impedance of the 
crossover, rather, the compatable speaker impedance.

>If you use this with 4 ohm speakers, you will
>alter the crossover points.  
>As for power delivered through a crossover, the crossover shouldn't
>absorb any power... save a small loss to heat... but if this crossover
>were wired to an 8 ohm woofer and 8 ohm tweeter via a 30x2 amp, each
>speaker would see 30 watts in the appropriate frequency range for that
>speaker.

Sort of, but you really ought to view it as a power per frequency curve.
From the low end to about 2.5 kHz, the woofer will have 30 watts. The woofer 
will get about 15 watts at 3 kHz ( -3dB point ), axp .9 watts at 6kHz ( 12 
dB's down from 15 watts ). Of course, this is assuming a flat response, with 
no equalization, etc. Music fluctuates, so the woofer may have more power in 
the bass, than at 2kHz.


>Hope that helps,
>				- Jason
>-- 
>---------------------------------------------------------------
>\ Jason A. Reiser  \ Send E-Mail to jreiser@scott.skidmore.edu \
> \ Skidmore College \ Saratoga Springs, NY 12866 \ 518-581-6580 \  
>  \ It's a new Ice Age!  Hooray!!  Sled City!  - Calvin & Hobbes \
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car