HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: dcg@mogun.UUCP (David Gunsul)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Increasing power?
Summary: the T/A from hell
Date: 26 Jul 92 03:09:59 GMT
Organization: Hotrods `R' Us, Montgomery, IL

In article <1992Jul24.133816.20347@bnr.ca>,  (Eric Youngblood) writes:
> 
> Does anyone have any ideas on how to increase the power produced by a normally
> aspirated V-8 engine?

Hi Eric,

My first suggestions would be a rear end gear change and some bigger
tires in back.

I think with just these two changes you would be at or very close
to your goal of low 14's, depending of course on what gear ratio you
use. 


> What I've got is a 77 TA w/ the Pontiac 400 cid engine. It was overhauled about
> 
> I would like to push the 0-60 time down into the high five second range and
> hopefully reduce the 1/4 mile time into the low 14's is this possible or am
> I about at the maximum for a "street" configuration.

As I said above, I think that the rear end gears are what's
really slowing you down but if you want to take the T/A even
further I would suggest looking into the Edelbrock Performer RPM
power package.

It includes: 750 cfm carb, an aluminum high-rise intake manifold,
and, even though you already have a pretty big cam, a dyno matched
cam.

The Edelbrocks cam is a little bit bigger with: 488 deg lift and 510 exh.

One more easy thing you might want to consider is reducing weight
with either fiber-glass and/or aluminum.
Reduced weight is free horsepower.

Hope this helped. 


> Any experience or suggestions appreciated
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Ericy

                      
                                          
                     
                     |                    
                     | David Gunsul       
                     | dcg@mogun.uucp      
                     |------------------------------------------------
                     |  It's amazing what 2,500 worth of big block
                     |  will do to 60,000 worth of high technology. 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: valdes@geosun.uchicago.edu (John Valdes)
Subject: Burned out starter or solenoid?
Organization: Department of the Geophysical Sciences, University of Chicago
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 23:48:08 GMT

Hello all,

I believe that either the starter motor or the starter solenoid is burned
out on my '74 Chevy (Monte Carlo, 350).  The problem is when I turn the
key, the starter doesn't crank.  In fact, the starter is dead silent, no
clicks or anything (at least I don't hear anything from the driver's seat).
The only thing that happens it that the interior dome lamp goes completely
dark while I turn the key (indicating that current is at least being
drawn from the battery--which is brand new, and fully charged, BTW).
Occasionly, when trying to start the car after letting it sit for awhile,
I'll hear a click and the starter will crank for about 1/2-second, but then
it goes dead again.  This problem came up when I tried to start the car
on an extremely humid day (figures...).  Any guess as to the problem:
starter, solenoid or a short elsewhere in the circuit?

John Valdes
valdes@geosun.uchicago.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: Charging A/C with Freon
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 92 09:15:15 GMT

lihan@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Bruce G. Bostwick) writes:
: In article <1992Jul20.153331.24083@bnr.ca> Peon w/o Email priv (Eric Youngblood) writes:
: 
: Speaking of which, are ALL CFC's ozone-killers or just the ones with
: chlorine in them?  I would imagine the pure flourocarbons (like CFC-14
: which is pure perflouromethane) could be called into service as
: refrigerants with very little industry hassle or cost, and a BIG
: source of upper-atmosphere chlorine monoxide would be removed..  any
: thoughts, y'all?
: 

Um....CFC means 'Chlorinated Flourocarbon', so by definition they all have
chlorine.  Not all refrigerants, however, do.

I read somewhere that SAAB has started shipping cars (about a year ago)
with some other, non-nasty refrigerant in it, I beleive it has a designation
of '114' or something....anyone else heard of this?

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - you get what you pay for; you pay (and pay, and pay) for what you get.
hinz@picard.med.ge.com


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: taylor@farm.rtp.dg.com (William Taylor)
Subject: Re: AC compressor always engaged - solved
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 92 19:56:35 GMT
Reply-To: taylor@rtp.dg.com
Organization: Data General Corp., Research Triangle Park, NC

A toasted plastic wire plug caused the AC to short ON.
I removed the faulty plug, cleaned or replaced the individual wire
contacts, plugged them back together, and wrapped them with electrical tape.

Regards,
-- 
Buddy Taylor 				taylor@rtp.dg.com
Data General Corporation		Research Triangle Park, NC  27709
From: blu@cellar.org (Dan Reed)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: What does GT mean in all these sports models ?
Date: 30 Jul 92 12:45:51 GMT
Organization: The Cellar BBS and public access system

gt0963d@prism.gatech.EDU (Deeptendu Majumder) writes:

> The subject line says it all :-)
> 
> thanks
> d.
> -- 
> ------
> "Like a harsh neon streaking  through the velvet darkness 
> the whetted knife of Life tore its path through her Dreams"


Grand Touring...

Gots Toys...


----- 
 Dan Reed (Blu-Max) blu@cellar.org - AutoCad Geek - VW Lover - InlineSkater 
68' Cougar, 89 VW Golf, 72 Honda CB 360Twin.. what next?
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: neil@indetech.com (Neil Wilson)
Subject: Wood an Leather pickmeups
Organization: Independence Technologies, Inc. Fremont, CA
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 17:56:53 GMT


	I have a new old car an I'm looking for products to help
prolong the life of the leather, wood and vinyl. I realise this 
has most likely been covered before but I have not seen anything
recently.

	Thanks for your time. 
	I will post a summary of replies.


	Neil


____*_  Neil J. Wilson              {uunet,sun,sharkey,pacbell}!indetech.com!neil
\  / /  Independence Technologies
 \/ /   42705 Lawrence Place        FAX: 415 438-2034
  \/    Fremont, CA 94538           
-- 
____*_  Neil J. Wilson              {uunet,sun,sharkey,pacbell}!indetech!neil
\  / /  Independence Technologies
 \/ /   42705 Lawrence Place        FAX: 415 438-2034
  \/    Fremont, CA 94538           Voice: 415 438-2017
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mollett@lexmark.com (Vic Mollett)
Subject: Re: Cleaning injectors
Organization: Lexmark International; Lexington KY
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 17:38:24 GMT

Has anyone ever cleaned diesel injectors??  Is it the same as cleaning gasoline
injectors??  My 240D (which has Bosch mechanical fuel injection, but I don't
know what series) could use some cleaning I think (rougher than normal idle
sometimes).  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

-- 
                                             /\    Vic Mollett
 These opinions are my own and do not       /  \   Lexmark International, Inc.
 necessarily reflect those of my employer.  \  /   mollett@lexmark.com
                                             \/
From: steve@presto.ig.com (Steve Barnhouse)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: what are headers? and what's a turbo trans?
Date: 24 Jul 92 01:52:27 GMT
Organization: IntelliGenetics Inc., Mtn. View, Ca.


I've seen people mention headers, and I'm currently looking at a Chevy
350 for sale that has headers.  What are they and what purpose do they
serve?  

I've also seen references to turbo transmissions.  The owner of the
Chevy that I'm thinking of buying said that he recently replaced the
clutch fan.  What's a clutch fan and what's a turbo transmission?

Thanks,
--steve                                          steve@presto.ig.com
From: george@mech.seas.upenn.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Increasing power?
Date: 29 Jul 92 15:22:21 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: University of Pennsylvania, Mechanical Engineering

:: 
:IMHO, I'd have to say that the only time I'd have an automatic is if I had to
:drive in traffic often.  A manual is a pain at these times.

I like a manual even in heavy traffic.  An automatic only becomes
preferable when the traffic is truely "stop-and-go".

oh. i wish i had an automatic in my boat tow vehicle.  Its not fun trying
to get moving on a ramp with 2 extra tons to lift..
--
-george            george@mech.seas.upenn.edu
From: jnissen@jnissen.austin.ibm.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Mustang sender unit
Keywords: Fuel sender
Date: 20 Jul 92 20:51:34 GMT
Reply-To: jnissen@jnissen.austin.ibm.com ()
Organization: IBM Austin Advanced Workstation Division

I am trying to find out how to replace the gas gauge fuel sensor on a 
1987 Mustang.  The parts department said it was a part of the fuel pump
located in the tank.  Is this true?  Has anyone had experience replacing a 
sender unit on this vehicle?  Thanks in advance.	

Jim Nissen
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.vw
From: wxh1925@tesla.njit.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: car needed for parts (Cutlass Supreme)
Date: 23 Jul 92 01:46:07 GMT
Organization: New Jersey Institute of Technology

I need a 4-door Cutlass 1981 to 1986 for parts.  If you have
one you want to get rid of and make some money, or you know of 
a friend who may wants to sell please E_mail me.  Your help
will be greatly appreciated.
From: markj@tekig5.pen.tek.com (Mark R Jensen)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Increasing power?
Date: 29 Jul 92 18:16:47 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Beaverton,  OR.

In article <1992Jul29.094119.20703@mr.med.ge.com> hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987) writes:
>tgl@slee01.srl.ford.com (Tom Leone) writes:
>: 
>: What's the net.wisdom on manual transmissions instead of
>: automatics?  I know that torque converters are very inefficient,
>: wasting perhaps 10-15% of engine power.  However, they are a good,
>: repeatable way to get the engine up to high RPM.
>: 
>If you are looking for performance, you can most likely learn how to
>shift at MUCH better times than an automatic would.  They are usually
>set up for mileage rather than performace, and don't take the engine
>up to optimal power range before shifting.

I beg to differ my friend. A trany with a shift kit will blow your manual 
time away any day of the week. Also as far as shift points go you can
recalibrate the govener to shift at the rpm you want or you can always
shift manually if you really feel the urge for full controle. Torque
converters can be changed to gain higher stall speeds for the *rocket*
launch you may be looking for. This info is of course geared toward
modafications and not a stock grandma shift Detroit stocker. If your not
into changing things then go with the 4/5 speed. These days you see very
few people running 4 speeds at the track since an automatic can be set
up to shift consistantly every time not to mention durability and no
chance of a missed shift although a manual shifter will give you better
controle of the car when burning up the corners. It dependes on what
your intentions are. 8^)

Mark.
From: Steve.Kaess@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Steve Kaess)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Carbon Buildup in engines ( valves ? ).....
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 15:40:57 -0500

 >
 > Such as??????
 >
 > p.s. to the "water injection" folks dribbling water down
 > the intake to clean
 > their combustion chambers- go *really* slowly- water is
 > incompressible, and
 > if too much gets in during the compression or exhaust strokes,
 > you may crack
 > your head or break a valve or piston. I'm surprised no-one
 > else mentioned this
 > caveat.
1800/4=450, 3300/6=550, 5000/8=625, 355 cc=1 pint-16 oz...I guess 
it might be done, but I doubt it--I find that when I do the trick 
I have to experiment a bit then find a speed of pour that is a bit 
less then will stall the motor--I have a helper rev it real high-
-I also think the run through the intake will nulify the effect of  
using real hot water...btw by real high I mean 2000-2500 rpm not 
6 grand. If it is enough water to damage the engine it will stall 
real fast...



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: punshon@skorpio.usask.ca (John Punshon)
Subject: Lead additive for fuel: Do I need it?
Keywords: fuel, lead, fiat
Organization: University of Saskatchewan, Saskatoon, Canada
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 21:54:50 GMT


The car I own is a 1970 FIAT 124 Spider.  The manual states that
premium gasoline should be used.  I know in 1970 premium gasoline
had lead in it, but the only fuel available now is unleaded.

I guess my questions are something like this:

	What is the difference between leaded and unleaded fuel, and
	what purpose does (did) the lead serve?

	Does my engine care whether or not the lead is there?

	If I need to use a lead additive, which brand is good, or
	what specifically should I look for?

Thanks so much,
John

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: behanna@phoenix.syl.nj.nec.com (Chris BeHanna)
Subject: Re: Carbon Buildup in engines ( valves ? ).....
Keywords: engine cleaners, water, alcohol, solvents
Organization: NEC Systems Laboratory, Inc.
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 92 21:45:32 GMT

In article <1992Jul23.185105.2264@osf.org> kenny@osf.org (Kenneth Crudup) writes:
>p.s. to the "water injection" folks dribbling water down the intake to clean
>their combustion chambers- go *really* slowly- water is incompressible, and
>if too much gets in during the compression or exhaust strokes, you may crack 
>your head or break a valve or piston. I'm surprised no-one else mentioned this
>caveat.

	Back in the olden days when a good friend of mine was in auto
mechanics' school (Hi, Buz!), he once witnessed an incredible feat:

	A couple of the dimmer bulbs in the class had a Monte Carlo with a
mouse 400 running.  They brought the garden hose over to the car and began to
dribble water down the intake.  The guy with the hose kept turning the water
up, and the guy in the car kept pushing the pedal down.  After a short while,
the water is coming out of the hose FULL BLAST down the intake of the car,
the throttle is WFO, and the car was still running!

	I'm not saying you shouldn't use care with the water-cleaning method,
but you can apparently get away with quite a bit.  Note, however, that I will
not take responsibility for the aftereffects of someone trying this with
their little 4-banger, or anything else for that matter.

Later,
-- 
Chris BeHanna		DoD# 114      1983 Harley-Davidson FXWG Wide Glide
behanna@syl.nj.nec.com	              1984 Dodge Omni GLH (well, almost)

Disclaimer:  Now why would NEC agree with any of this anyway?
From: bcollins@axion.bt.co.uk (Bill Collins)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Cracks in vinyl dash
Date: 31 Jul 92 11:18:52 GMT
Reply-To: bcollins@axion.bt.co.uk (Bill Collins)
Organization: British Telecom Research Labs



|>  NW>         I have an older mercedes that is developing a crack in it's
|>  NW>         vinyl dash. It's quite small at present and I would like to
|>  NW>         keep it that way. Any suggestions on how to curtail it's
|>  NW>         progress would be greatly appreciated.

I assume by "vinyl" that you mean some sort of (semi-)rigid plastic? 
(in the UK we use vinyl to refer to a more flexible type of covering).

You can halt the progress of cracks in many materials by drilling a hole
at each end of the crack: this reduces the stress at that point. You could
then fill it in with adhesive, or whatever. I had to do that recently with
a split in a beer barrel made of a polythene-type of plastic (before you ask:
no, it wasn't full of beer at the time).


Regards,
	Bill Collins

+-------------------------------------------------------------+
| Tortoise  : Software Development Division, BT Laboratories, |
|             Martlesham Heath, IPSWICH, Suffolk, IP5 7RE, UK |
| Hare      : bcollins@axion.bt.co.uk     +44 473 642760      |
| Disclaimer: It's MY foot in MY mouth !                      |
+-------------------------------------------------------------+
From: rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com (Bob Rusk)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Drivetrain Vibration
Date: 22 Jul 92 21:00:22 GMT
Reply-To: rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com
Organization: Harris Computer Systems Division

My father has had two Suburbans ('78 and '84) and a Chevy Van ('85),
and they all displayed a vibration at around 25 mph when accelerating.
It felt almost as though the transmission was slipping at that speed,
but the '78 now has 145K miles on the original drivetrain so I don't
think that could be the problem.  Along with these vehicles, I've
driven '82 (G20) and '89 (G30) Chevy Vans which also displayed the same
vibration.  Nobody ever explained the vibration, but it doesn't seem
to hurt anything.

As far as the 50MPH+ vibration, I'd tend to think it's unrelated.  The
vibrations from out of balance or out of round tires seems to start
to show up at around 50MPH in vehicles of that size.

Good luck!

--
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Bob Rusk			    | An egoless acceptance of stuckness is a
 rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com	    | key to an understanding of all Quality.
 My thoughts, probably not Harris'. |			   - Robert M. Pirsig
From: axle@bb1t.monsanto.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Transmission prob. & Redline MTL
Date: 29 Jul 92 14:30:06 CST
Organization: Monsanto Company, St. Louis, MO


	2 all netters,

	I've got an 88 MR2 non-turbo.  About a month ago, the transmission
became hard to upshift, especially going from 2nd to 1st.  No grinding or
clunking, just resistance coming out of first and into second.  

	I took it to a Toyota dealer, and after test driving it, he said
that I have a weak pressure plate causing the cluth not to disengage properly.
So I took my car to an independent mechanic I know.  He just laughed and 
told me that I just need to change the transmission oil and keep the revs
down a little when I upshift. (I normally shift at about 3.5-4k.  That's
not much for a 7.5k redline.)

	Taking his advice I ordered Redline MTL 75W90 and changed the 
trans fluid.  Yuk, my old fluids were dirty and full of synchronizers. The
Redline help the upshift a litte bit, but did not eliminate the problem.
Upshifting was still hard and a little bit crunchy.

	Anyway, today I took my car to another dealer.  This time they say
they couldn't find anyting wrong with the transmission.

	I'm STUMPED.  I know that my transmission is not what it used to
be.  The car has 56k on it.  That means the warranty will run out soon.
What can I do now?  Any advice or suggestion would be greatly appreciated.
I can't drive this car having to shift at 2.5k.  It feels like a Yugo.


						Thanks in advance,

						AXle Signing out.


P.S.   Incidentally, the first dealer I took it to, I did not tell them
       I got the extended warranty.
From: twc@svcs1.UUCP (Ted Chan)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Door/vanity lights won't come on
Date: 28 Jul 92 03:28:44 GMT
Organization: Silicon Valley Computer Society, Sunnyvale, CA

From article <15532@ucdavis.ucdavis.edu>, by ccm038@rosie.ucdavis.edu (Jason Yan (can cook)):
> 
> A while back, the fuse for my door lights, vanity lights, trunk blew
> out.  I tried replacing the fuse with the correct one, but each time,
> it would blow out on contact.  Am I supposed to switch the vanity
> lights to the OFF position before sticking in the fuse?  Or is
> there a short somewhere that I should look for?  It's an 86.5
          ^^^^^
That's the likely culprit.  Use an ohm-meter to confirm the
diagnosis.  If you replace a blown fuse and the replacement blows,
you should definitely assume that you have a problem that needs
repair beyond further fuse replacements.

--twc@legal.uucp
From: hcs@adpgate.UUCP (Howard Schultz)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Fuel injector problems with Lumina Z34
Date: 27 Jul 92 21:32:50 GMT
Article-I.D.: adpplz.1468
Distribution: na
Organization: ADP Dealer Services R&D, Portland, OR


is their a owners club for the 3.4 yet?

I have an SHO and belong to their owners club and several 3.4 owners
have joined it.

how do you like your car other than the injector problem?

the lady at work here who has a 92 has not had any injector problems
with hers.

good luck.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kroth@sunshine.Kodak.COM (David Kroth)
Subject: Where to buy a paint gun
Organization: Eastman Kodak Co., Rochester, NY
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 92 15:23:39 GMT


Does anyone know where I can buy a paint guns (and other paint
equipment) at discount prices?  I am looking at either Sharpe
or DeVilBiss (sp?).  All the local places around here charge
list price.  A mail order house would be nice.

Please e-mail.  I havn't read this newsgroup in 8 months.

Dave Kroth
kroth@acadia.kodak.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: enns@waterloo.hp.com (Roger Enns)
Subject: Re: VAPOR LOCK!!!
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 11:22:01 GMT
Organization: HP Panacom Div Waterloo ON Canada
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1scd1 PL4

I use a FACET fuel pump on my RX-7, and have had no noise
problems.  It is barely audible from the passenger compartment
with the engine off, and cannot be heard after startup.  The key
is probably to rubber isolate the pump from the mount on the
chassis, and also to use rubber lines to connect to the pump,
rather than running hard lines to the inlet and outlet.
From: andrus@cs.uwp.edu (Bonnie Andrus)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Vibration of Toyota 4-Runner
Keywords: Toyota
Date: 29 Jul 92 16:59:15 GMT
Organization: University of Wisconsin - Parkside


I am being ripped off and I need some help.  For some time now my 1990 Toyota
4-Runner has been vibrating at the speed of 45 mph.  It has 25k miles on it. I
took it to Goodyear and had it aligned, tires balanced and rotated 3 months
ago without any results.  They told me my rear shocks were leaking and tried
to sell me some new ones.  I knew the shocks were still under warantee so I
took it to the Toyota dealer.  They said my shocks were fine.  Who do you
believe.  Well I believed the Toyota dealer and thought Goodyear was just
trying to sell me some shocks.  In June, while driving down the road the
4-Runner just stoped.  I had it towed to the dealer and after having it for
two days they found some wires in a harness that were defective.  Now not only
does it vibrate at 45 mph but when I put on the brakes.  So again I take it to
the Toyota dealer in hopes that this is under warantee.  They call me to tell
me that I need break pads and balancing.  I give them the go ahead.  They call
me back and tell me that they got the vibration out of the front but not the
back and that my rear shocks need to be cleaned.  Of course none of this is
waranteed because it is all maintenance.  I go to the dealer pay them $198.25
get in the 4-Runner, notice that my breaks just need a slight touch to work
however the vibration is stronger when I break, I am told that will go away
when the pads adjust to the rotor.  On the way home the 4-Runner starts to
vibrate when I hit the speed of 45.  I turn around and go right back to the
dealer.  The service manager takes a ride with me and doesn't notice the
vibration at first then finally admitts that there is one.  So I leave the
Toyota overnight once again.  Guess what they are going to do today.  They are
going to take the tires off of a new 4-Runner and switch them to see if thats
the cause.  When I asked them to check the bolts on the engine and
transmission they looked as me as to say (Don't tell us how to do our job you
don't know anything about this) which is true.  I am also female.  You can see
this sucker coming.  When I got home I looked over the bill and noticed that
they charged me twice for parts.  I couldn't believe it.  That I can take care
of but I need a lot of help before tonight when I pick up the Toyota.  I need
to be prepared and sound as if I know what I am talking about.  Can anybody
out there help me out with possible solutions or with correct mechanic
language.  I am really getting taken for a ride and I don't know how to deal
with this.

Thanks,

Bonnie      andrus@cs.UWP.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech