HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: engine brakes
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 93 08:14:57 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Tuesday, Jan 12 03:14:42
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> 
> 
> -> My question: why is this not a more common method (i.e., light oil).
> 
>  Cavitation for one, RPM for another.  Most of those pumps are designed
> for fairly low RPMs.  Hooking a wailing 500hp, 7500 RPM motor to one
> means gearing down, which multiplies torque, which makes the problem
> worse.

Cavitation is NOT one of the problems I had with that pump. However, the
heat would limit the run period. Again, this is a bit larger than my rig,
but the mechanics should scale up (IMHO).  As far as RPM, have you ever
seen a roller-cranked, de-stroked, 1950cc VW?  Not exactly the epitome 
of durability, but while it lived, we counted 263HP at 8600 RPM.  That
*did* warm up my 55 gal. drums.  Granted, this is definitely outside
specs for the pump, but it did stay together. 

> 
> 
> -> [I imagine a couple of those huge pumps like used on garbage pumps
> -> would absorb 500 hp or so.  JGD]
> 
>  Even if they were about right, they'd be expensive.  I can do some
> checking, but I don't have much hope.
>
Not ever having seen a garbage pump, I would be curious to know what you
are talking about.  The closest thing I can relate to that is a 235 ci.
6 cyl. modified as a semi-solid vacuum pump.  Never built one, but we did 
have one in the shop for (of all things) a new water pump. 

[take a look under the next truck you see.  There'll likely be a huge
tumor hanging off the gearbox.  That's the hydraulic pump.  Something
you can wrap your arms around :-)   Seems to me like the major mod that
would need to be made to one of these puppies is to install ball 
bearings for the high RPM service, and maybe port it a bit so the 
flow would be smoother with no cavitation.  JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!hounix.org!als (Alan Squyres)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: 302 rev. limiter
Date: Thu, 07 Jan 93 02:44:43 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Wednesday, Jan 06 21:44:39
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-> told that the way to permanently cure the spacer spring problem was
-> to make some solid aluminum spacers.  Too bad the car died a sudden
-> death before I got my hands on a lathe.

 That's how they used to to the LeMans and NASCAR FE-series Ford big
blocks.  I never quite understood why springs are commonly used.  Even
my little Kent 1600 and OHC Mazda pickup use them.
                                                                 

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Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: rod side clearance
Date: Wed, 06 Jan 93 23:04:26 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Wednesday, Jan 06 18:04:22
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-> >[Brings up a point of question I've had for quite some time.  What
-> is >the reason to worry about side clearance on the con rod big end
-> >other than to make sure it is not too tight?  It is not intrinsicly
-> >obvious to me and I've never been given a reason other than
-> something >that invariably boils down to "that's the way we've always
-> done it." >JGD]

 Two reasons:
        1) that's the final exit for all the oil you're pumping into the
           oil gallery.  You lose a little around the lifters and mains,
           but the rod bearings are the far end of the column, and
           that's where you let it out.  Yunick claims excess side
           clearance will disastrously lower oil pressure; Joe Mondello
           (whose credentials are equally impressive) not only widens
           the clearance, but grinds relief slots in the sides of the
           rods, to improve bearing cooling by promoting more oil flow.
           Sounds like a tossup to me.
        2) The fit between the pin and piston are for all purposes a
           solid link.  Any tolerance is at the big end.


-> I was wondering about this mod.  What hydraulic roller grinds wuld be
-> good for a 9.7:1 327 cu.in. SB chevy, w/ 5spd., 3.55:1 gears, 26in.

 Beats me!  There aren't any really good profiles for the stock
hydraulic rollers, and for good reason - the little bastards weigh a
ton.  They're *heavy*, and you'd wind up with big valve springs, lots of
flex in the stock valvetrain, and pretty high cam loads, and you'd still
have a hydraulic lifter.

 Hmm... I wonder how much lighter they'd be if you pulled all the guts
out and pressed in a small thrust button for the pushrod?  You could
even adjust the length so you could use standard Chevy pushrods instead
of the 1/2 inch shorter roller pushrods.


-> ideas?  BTW, are you talking about using Chevy hyd. roller lifters
-> for this mod?

 In the case of the 262, I don't intend to turn it more than 4500 max,
so the factory lifters should be fine.  Since rollers can be
mix'n'matched between lobes and cams, I'd intended to (cough, cough)
just go to the junkyard and scavenge a set out of the motor pile.
                                                        

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Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: 305 torque
Date: Fri, 08 Jan 93 20:46:45 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Friday, Jan 08 15:46:32
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->      You can mail order complete 305s with 400 cranks for less than
-> $2000.00. Probably less than having all that machine work done and it
-> has

> You can build one for half that, and it won't cost you $300 truck
>freight to get it, either.

> This is the hotrod list, you know.  Who's going to buy a motor from
>some mail order bozo when they can do it in their own kitchen?
                                                                     

>----------
>Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)

	After you add it all up, heads, boring, align honing, rods checked,
pistons fitted, new cam bearings, freeze plugs, plus all the extra machining
that needs to be done to fit a 400 crank in, you might as well buy one already
built with a garantee. I just finished rebuilding a 305, and I would have 
saved money if I had bought a long block already assembled. Maybe in your area
machining labor is cheap, but in Massachusetts its not. Especially if you want
it done right.

	Pete

	P.S. Reputable mail order place bozos do it for a living, and do nice
work. I think I know this is a hotrod list. A little less sarcazm wouldn't hurt.

[Y'all be nice now :-)  JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!ll.mit.edu!psanders (Peter Sanders)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: cng conversions (fwd)
Date: Fri, 08 Jan 93 21:13:09 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Friday, Jan 08 16:13:06
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 Hey,
 	Bill Clinton's choice for Secretary of Energy drives a car which
 runs on either gasoline or compressed natural gas.  I expect that there
 will be a dramatic increase in the federal tax on gasoline within the
 next few years.  The EPA has approved natural gas as an automotive fuel
 with NO emmission standards.  Here at the University of Georgia, all of
 the physical plant vehicles are being converted to run on compressed
 natural gas.  

 [The emissions situation is changing even as we speak.  EPA hasn't got
 anything else to do so now they're formulating emission standards for
 NG vehicles.  JGD]

 	Can anyone point me toward some literature that will contain
 information about converting carbureted, gasoline engines to run on
 compressed natural gas as a second fuel?  My thoughts are that a second
 carburetor mounted above the stock carburetor will fit the bill.  The
 engine starts on gasoline and when it reaches operating temperature, the
 gasoline is switched off while the cng is switched on.  
 	There are millions of open system cars in the south and west
 which will be junked or converted to cng if gasoline approaches $3.00
 per gallon.   Many of the cars we talk about on this list can easily be
 converted.   I'd rather convert than drive a Civic.  But if I had my
 druthers, I run a car with an 11:1 compression ratio on aviation gas.
 Tom Root
 

----------
Posted by: emory!marie.stat.uga.edu!tom (Tom Root)
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
Subject: Big Man with Saw
Date: 11 Jan 93 20:20:33 GMT
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Monday, Jan 11 15:20:29
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Begin forwarded message:


[Hey, you outta see me with my McCulloch SuperPro 90 with the huge
brush (bow) bar.  Now I'm 6'7", 300 lbs.  Imagine me in my red  
flannel  shirt, suspenders and logging boots :-)  I can brush and  
buck a tree in minutes.  Got pretty good when I was feeding a wood  
burning central furnace I built.  JGD]

I think the only thing missing from this picture is John wearing a  
hockey mask =8^).

----------
Posted by: emory!phoenix.az.stratus.com!scol (Scott Colbath)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: windshield
Date: Thu, 07 Jan 93 22:45:21 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Thursday, Jan 07 17:45:09
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 I just called the first number in the phone book.  For a brand new
Libby-Owens-Ford clear windshield, $191.63.  For tinted, $219.78.
Rough size is 26 x 64 x 9 inches, weight is "pretty heavy" but I'd guess
under 50 pounds.  They come wrapped in cardboard, you'd need a crate to
send one to NZ.  Someone could probably whip together a crate for $30 or
less.
                                                                                                                

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Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: screw in plugs
Date: Sat, 09 Jan 93 22:56:29 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Saturday, Jan 09 17:56:24
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The new part #M-6026-B302 contains 6 1-1/2" NPT cast-iron pipe plugs
with an indented square drive.
I threw away (kick myself twice) the package that the 427 plugs came in,
but this had an old style #, something like C3xx-xxxx.

Millam

----------
Posted by: emory!naucse.cse.nau.edu!met (Millam Tackitt)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Cripes, maaaan!
Date: Fri, 08 Jan 93 21:39:28 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Friday, Jan 08 16:39:25
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John yaks about fun with 'hot saws':

>The competition is to see who can cut through a log the fastest.  
>Alcohol classes typically use 4 ft logs while unlimited nitro burners
>use 6 ft diameters.  Typical cut times are under 5 seconds.

  Jeeminy!  I would LOVE to watch that!  All I can say is that kickback
must be one motherfarger.  I wonder how long it would take for one of
those saws to go through a shoulder.  Bet you wear thick meaty chaps!

  My Dad had a 90cc McCulloch that I found positively awesome.
But then again I tense up with my 38cc Husqvarna (since I'd like to
keep all my organic limbs attached.

[Hey, you outta see me with my McCulloch SuperPro 90 with the huge
brush (bow) bar.  Now I'm 6'7", 300 lbs.  Imagine me in my red flannel
shirt, suspenders and logging boots :-)  I can brush and buck a tree
in minutes.  Got pretty good when I was feeding a wood burning 
central furnace I built.  JGD]

  Ron "More Of These Stories, Please" Rader

ron rader, jr  rlr@bbt.com OR ...!mcnc!bbt!rlr 
      walking through this world of lies, with a heart made out of stone
      I looked deep into my eyes, and I knew I was alone, all alone - BF
**Opinions are my own and do not necessarily reflect those of BroadBand Tech.**

----------
Posted by: emory!bbt.com!rlr (Powdered Toast Man)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Chainsaws (Oh NO!)
Date: Thu, 07 Jan 93 20:27:56 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Thursday, Jan 07 15:27:53
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        Reply to:   Chainsaws (Oh NO!)

>Care to expand on that???

[The competition is to see who can cut through a log the fastest.  
Alcohol classes typically use 4 ft logs while unlimited nitro burners
use 6 ft diameters.  Typical cut times are under 5 seconds.  My mentor
used to run a nitro saw.  One of the old McCollough gear drives that
had the same engine as their go-kart motors.  Operated it in a
fire suit and mask just like the dragster fellows.  I understand this
sport is still popular in the northwest, but I've not heard of it 
around here in a long time.  JGD]

Funny you should bring that up ... About 3 weeks ago I saw the Lumberjack
Championships Competition (or something like that).  They did all sorts of
things that looked extremely hazardous to one's health with very sharp
implements! <grin>  This included standing on a log and chopping it in half by
swinging this HUGE axe BETWEEN their feet ... I bet some of them have nicknames
like "Ol' 9 toes" or "Gimpy".

ANYWAY, I saw those wild saws ... one guy had this huge saw that was powered by
a Suzuki motorcycle engine cut in half (2 cylinders) ... kind of fascinating in
a bizarre technoidiocy kind of way!  These things sounded like killer bees on
cocaine!

-- Ken Mosher
-- Buick Grand National:  "... comes in any color, as long as it's black ..." 


[You ought to see all the trick things competitors use.  The chain, for
example.  How to sharpen the teeth and cut the depth gauges is a deep
dark secret.  You'll see towels over the bars when the saws are in 
the pits just like race guys cover their heads.  The cut we used was
only good for one run at a time, then the chain got resharpened again.
We used to carry around as many chains as John Force does engines :-)
Interesting that they're allowing multi-cylinder now.  Used to
be illegal.  Bet that IS a handful.  JGD]



----------
Posted by: "KEN MOSHER" <emory!imd.sterling.com!Ken_Mosher>
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re:  Solid Lifters? (fwd)
Date: Thu, 07 Jan 93 19:52:09 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Thursday, Jan 07 14:52:04
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Forwarded message:
> From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jan  6 17:15:15 1993
> 
> -> If you are the same kind of person who would put a dual-point
> -> distributor in instead of some kind of HEI just so you can adjust the
> -> points every weekend, then go for it.  IMHO, you should probably look
> -> into a roller cam and lifters (Unless you LIKE yanking the valve
> -> covers every 2-4 weeks to set the valve lash.)
> 
>  Unless you have something drastically wrong, the valve covers probably
> don't need to come off more than once a year.  Chrysler has made
> gazillions of solid-lifter slant sixes, and for all I know they still
> do.

The slant/six was made with solid lifters until about 1982.  After that
they used hydraulic lifters.  I believe that 1987 was the last year that
the slant/six was available in the usa.  I have heard that the tooling
for this engine was sold to the Chinese who are still producing it for
cars, trucks, and tractors.
These solid lifters rarely need valve lash adjustment because the factory
specs are not very exacting.  .1 - .3  and .2 - .4 .   Set 'em, forget
'em.   I think that this is a result of the long stoke engine having a
very broad power band. This engine will produce most of the power it is
capable of producing no matter what the valves are set for within those
rough tolerances.  Other engines may not be so tolerant of mis-adjusted
valves.  I believe the early Japanese four cylinder engines would
quickly burn valves if they were mis-adjusted.  I think that the solid
lifters in the 1961-1982 slant/sixes contributed significantly to the
engines reputation for long life because a failed hydraulic lifter
results in a bad cylinder.  Twelve fewer things to go wrong during the
3rd or 4th hundred thousand miles.
Tom Root
> 
>  *Real* roller cams are all solid - nobody grinds anything good for the
> usual OEM hydraulic goobers.
>                                                         
> 
> ----------
> Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
>  
> 
> 
> 

----------
Posted by: emory!marie.stat.uga.edu!tom (Tom Root)
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
Subject: Re: screw in plugs
Date: 8 Jan 93 01:19:30 GMT
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Thursday, Jan 07 20:19:27
X-Sequence: 3264
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Most engine builders only use pipe plugs to replace the slug
type plugs used for the oil galleries, they (and I) use NPT
(National Pipe Thread) plugs with a recessed hex head and
install them flush or just below the surface, if the plugs are
too long you grind them down to the correct length.  Seal the
plugs with epoxy, not RTV or other such sealers, and especially
not locktight, if a piece of the sealer breaks off, it can make
a real mess of your oil distribution system.  As far as core
plugs go, most builders (me included) have good success siply
epoxying the steel plugs in place,  although I have seen an
engine with the plugs brazed in, I don't know how effective that
is, nor how much of a hassle it causes on subsequent tear downs
and rebuilds.  For some good info on this and other methods of
prepping an engine for high performance check out the book "How
to Modify your Nissan/Datsun OHC Engine", it may not be 
specific to your engine (it is for mine), it has a lot of
general info that can be  used on any engine. 


                        Dennis Loyer (Screamin' 370hp, '77 280Z)

----------
Posted by: emory!zacson4.EBay.Sun.COM!dloyer (Dennis Loyer)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: rod side clearance
Date: Sat, 09 Jan 93 00:45:32 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Friday, Jan 08 19:45:25
X-Sequence: 3312
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>
> That leaves widening the rods.  The first thought was to braze some
>material to the big ends, then face it off on the lathe.  The other was
>to either peen the big ends (doubtful I'd get enough displacement to do
>much) or build a ring-shaped die from tool steel and stamp a ring in the
>side of the rod to displace metal, then face it off.
>
> Frankly, brazing the extra material on looks like the way to go so far,
>unless anyone has any further ideas.
>
>[Brings up a point of question I've had for quite some time.  What is 
>the reason to worry about side clearance on the con rod big end
>other than to make sure it is not too tight?  It is not intrinsicly
>obvious to me and I've never been given a reason other than something
>that invariably boils down to "that's the way we've always done it."
>JGD]
>
>----------
>Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)

May I suggest that a potential alternative is to send the crank to
Lunati or Crankshaft Specialists and have the rod journals chromed and
then ground to your specs? May cost a few extra bucks but in the end,
you have a better crank and none of the aggravation of dinking with the
rods. 

Over the years my experience with Pontiac's, which have some inherent
oiling problems, led me to increase the rod side clearance in concert
with other mods (lifter oil feed restrictors, bigger pump, etc.) I've
run as much as .040" with no ill effects. Stock car guys have done it
for years, but don't ask me why it works.

----------
Posted by: emory!sierra.com!vcook (Victor Cook)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: 305 torque
Date: Sat, 09 Jan 93 10:37:28 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Saturday, Jan 09 05:37:19
X-Sequence: 3332
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>> Maybe in your area
>> machining labor is cheap, but in Massachusetts its not. Especially if you want
>> it done right.
>
>For those in the MA area who want some machining done right, send me e-mail.
>-- 
>---
>John R. Lupien
>lupienj@wal.hp.com

Anyone know of a good machine shop in CA?  (bay area??)

>
>----------
>Posted by: emory!wal.hp.com!lupienj (John Lupien)


----------
Posted by: emory!shell.portal.com!duel (Omid M Farr)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod