HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: steven@syacus.acus.oz.au (Steven Malikoff)
Subject: How to "age" flat paint?
Organization: ACUS Australian Centre for Unisys Software, Sydney
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 03:56:50 GMT


Dear a.a.a and r.a people, can you help me?
Two things:

I've been restoring my '44 jeep and have just finished spraying the body with
a final coat of Olive Drab. This paint dries *absolutely* flat - no gloss
whatsoever (which is what I want). However, unfortunately, it is really soft
and scratches incredibly easily, and picks up fingerprints and oil stains.

Now, I've noticed, that if I rub the paint with my palm, it sort of makes
the surface semi-flat - still non-reflective but it seems to be much more
scratch-resistant. What I'd like to know, is, is there anything that can be
applied to matt surfaces to induce this "ageing" effect?

The other thing:
650,000 were produced from 1941 to 1945. ...How many still in existence?
I'm interested in somehow trying to determine the approximate number of
WW2 jeeps still on the roadways of the world. This would be difficult and
time-consuming for Jeep clubs, but I'm sure the Internet can help me here.
So, if you know of any clubs near your area, and how many members they may
have, I might be able to form a rough aggregate. Maybe this would be inter-
esting to do for other vehicles as well! ...I'd be extremely pleased and
grateful for your comments! 

Thanks for any help,

Steven Malikoff.
steven@syacus.acus.oz.au
From: rhorwell@crab.atc-suns (Roland Faragher-Horwell,crab)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: Wanted: Peugeot 404c
Date: 20 Aug 92 21:32:17 GMT
Reply-To: rhorwell@crab.tc-suns
Distribution: na
Organization: Boeing Computer Services

Subject says it all - I am looking for a Peugeot 404c (convertible) in good shape
(no rust, thankyou).  I would prefer that it be somewhere in the west (the more
northwest the better).  Anyone knowing of one, let me in on it.

Thanks

Roland Faragher-Horwell
rhorwell@atc.boeing.com
From: miller@FS1.cam.nist.gov (Bruce R. Miller)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: Re: Brazing up sheet metal
Date: 12 Aug 92 20:39:30 GMT
Organization: NIST - Computing and Applied Mathematics Laboratory


In article <1992Aug12.144838.1666@mlb.semi.harris.com>, James W. Swonger writes:
>  Has anyone tried plastic filler over lead? ... My main interest is in 
> eliminating the steel-plastic interface and its moisture-trapping/rust
> potential. 

Is this interface itself the problem?  I thought the main issue is to
have the plastic completely sealed within its own pocket; typically made
of steel on one side and primer/paint on the other.

I would think that even if there is moisture within the plastic before
it is closed-in, that the oxidation would stop once the water & oxygen
were `used up' -- course' you'd still want to minimize that.

The problem is when there is an open path for water & oxygen to get into the
plastic which wicks it up and it ends up on the steel.  That's how the
panels rust out.  This sort of thing happens when a panel gets pulled
out using a screw on a slide hammer and they just putty over the whole
mess w/o welding -- or brazing :> -- the holes shut.

And 

In article <1992Aug12.180850.6994@mlb.semi.harris.com>, James W. Swonger writes:
>  Therein lies the problem. The panel is sort of inaccessible; there's the 
> inner skin in the way making it impossible to swing a hammer. I have gone as
> far as I can by heating and prying but the seam crease is about 1/2" below
> the finish plane. I don't like the idea of drilling and pulling every two
> inches and then having to repair -that- as well...
> 
>  So anyway, what about 1/4" of lead and 1/4" of plastic?

Sounds like a lotta (too much) whatever it is.  If the inner skin is
adding some stiffness, it may survive, but thats a lotta stuff thats
going to be vibrating and working itself loose.  The lead may stick to
the steel better than plastic, but the vibration may still cause the
plastic to come off the lead. 

Wouldn't you like just a _little_ more practise brazing holes?? :>
From: ans0@aber.ac.uk (Austin Newton Shackles)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: Re: flathead cooling
Date: 21 Aug 92 20:44:42 GMT
Organization: University of Wales, Aberystwyth

In article <1992Aug20.175215.10895@cbnewsl.cb.att.com> dpl@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (douglas.p.linden) writes:
>
>In normal driving I would expect a '49 flathead to run around 
>the temp of the thermostats in the system...my '52 runs all day
>at 160 degrees (checked with lab thermometers), although the temp
>guage reads higher.
>
>Check to make sure that thermostats are being used.. they will
>help to keep the motor cool by allowing the coolant to stay in 
>the radiator longer.

what?? the thermostat is there to slow down the flow of water from the top of 
the block (the hottest part) to the rad., thus allowing theblock to reach 
"normal" operating temperature. if you had summat to keep water in the rad., 
then sure that water would get cooler, meantime the water in the engine will 
get hotter. Neraly all cars are designed intitially with more cooling than 
they require, then use a thermostat to keep the engine up to temperature. Try 
removing thermostats sometime, you'll find that the car runs cooler under all 
conditions where it wouldn't overheat anyway. My engine was suffering from 
overheating, due mainly i think to being f***ed, and removing the thermostat 
caused an instant cure. 

>If all checks out then make sure antifreeze is up to par and 
>install an overflow tank. Around here those of us who drive 
>our cars have made the switch and after two trips of over a
>1000 miles we have not lost a drop of coolant after experiencing
>heat and mountains.
>
>Our systems are not of the sealed type that Geof refered to, but
>do require the radiator have a sealed cap.

another possible cause of overheating in an iron egine is a build-up of rust 
sediment in the radiator, if this hasnt been checked, check it and flush the 
cooling system if in doubt. you can use patented muck for this, for rads, i 
just flush it out with a high-volume hose, (ie straight off the mains tap) so 
that the water flows through much faster then usual. (but then i'm to tight to
buy radiator flushing muck...)

>
>good luck!
likewise...

-- 
   Austin Newton Shackles   |   Cynic? Me??
   ans0@uk.ac.aberystwyth   |   				Naahhhh!!!
   DoD#0467 1981 Z440 Ltd   |           My opinions are just that   
   shackles@uk.ac.lampeter  |Physics dept. University of Wales, Aberystwyth.
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: dpl@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (douglas.p.linden)
Subject: flathead cooling
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 17:52:15 GMT


In normal driving I would expect a '49 flathead to run around 
the temp of the thermostats in the system...my '52 runs all day
at 160 degrees (checked with lab thermometers), although the temp
guage reads higher.

Check to make sure that thermostats are being used.. they will
help to keep the motor cool by allowing the coolant to stay in 
the radiator longer.

If all checks out then make sure antifreeze is up to par and 
install an overflow tank. Around here those of us who drive 
our cars have made the switch and after two trips of over a
1000 miles we have not lost a drop of coolant after experiencing
heat and mountains.

Our systems are not of the sealed type that Geof refered to, but
do require the radiator have a sealed cap.

good luck!
From: ben@bailey.UUCP (Ben Bailey)
Subject: Re: Flathead V8 temperature
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Date: 21 Aug 92 00:45:56 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Ben Bailey's Home..Tampa Fl.

glb@s1.gov (Gary L. Berry) writes:
> Hey All;
> 
> 	I have a brother-in-law that is heading to LA from Bay Area in
> his 1949 Ford Tudor next weekend, and he is kind of worried about the
> temperature that his engine reaches.  At operating range it sits at 200
> degrees with a 4lb pressure cap.  It's a 100hp/239ci flathead engine,
> and he believes it's the original one.  Anyway, it doesn't look like
> this gives him a real cushion against hot weather (>100's) that we've
> been experiencing.  So, does anyone know if this is normal for this
> engine.  All my chevys tend to run between 160 and 190 depending on the
> thermostat, and I feel that his ford should do the same.  Anyway, just
> wondering if there is an answer out there.  Thanks in advance...
> 
> 				Gary Berry
> 				glb@s1.gov

Gary,

According to my "Steam Tables" book, (assuming absolute pressure of
~15 lbs/i^2, plust 4 lb/i^ =~ 20 lbs/i^2 absolute), 20 lbs/i^2 has
a boiling point of 'about' 226 deg F.  Once it boils, the pressure will
rapidly advance, and lift the pressure cap, venting steam.  ('Thar she
blows').

While I can't directly answer your question, this will at least give
you some idea of your temperature margin.  Also, keep in mind this
is making two assumptions:

	1. You are always operating at sea level (~15 lbs/i^).  As you
		climb the absolute pressure will drop, and so will the
		boiling temperature.

	2. The radiator cap will not vent earlier than 4 lbs.  Venting
		earlier will reduce the boiling point also.

	3. The temperature gauge you are using is accurate.  It very
		likely isn't.

Ben
--
Ben Bailey                 ben@bailey.uucp -- bailey!ben@uunet.uu.net
12210 Shady Forest Dr.     ben@bailey.tscs.com
Riverview, Fl. 33569       -- The main thing is to keep the main
813-677-5021                  thing the main thing.  Mainly.
From: jsamuels@lawlab_2.vill.edu (Jeffrey Samuelson)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: MG Steering Wheel
Date: 13 Aug 92 13:23:49 GMT
Organization: Villanova University Law School


Hei,

Anyone out there have a stock steering wheel for a '65 Midget?  I'm also 
looking for a turn signal mechanism.  Please contact me directly if you have 
or know where I could find these items.



						Thanks





						Jeffrey


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|  Jeffrey D. Samuelson                             "My God,        |
|  Audio Visual Services                            there must      |
|  Villanova Law School                             be more         |
|  Villanova, PA. 19085            o                                |
|  U.S.A                           o                   lawyers      |
|  jsamuels@lawlab_2.vill.edu  <XXXX>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>  here         |
|  Tel - 215-645-7234              o                   than people" |
|  Fax - 215-645-7033              o                                |
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From: erico@narrator.pen.tek.com (Eric Oosterhof;627-4329;47-786;tekig1.pen;)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: Re: Brazing up sheet metal
Date: 12 Aug 92 20:58:13 GMT
Reply-To: erico@narrator.pen.tek.com (Eric Oosterhof;627-4329;47-786;tekig1.pen;)
Organization: tektronix

In article <1992Aug12.180850.6994@mlb.semi.harris.com>, jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger) writes:
|> In article <1992Aug12.165726.17731@mcnc.org> brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks) writes:

|>>...Stuff regarding too thick fillers deleted...

|>...Stuff regarding too thick fillers with backsides inaccessible deleted...

I used to work at a welding shop, and something that we would do once in a
while to pull dents is to weld a slide hammer on, pull the dent, and then
remove the hammer.  Works quite well.  Hint: make the hammer with a piece
of 1/2" OD pipe about 36" long, with a 5/8" ID pipe about 8" long for the
slide and a big washer welded to the other end.  Then, weld a bolt into the
1/2" pipe and yer off.


erico

-- 
Eric Oosterhof                "Gentlemen, I have the utmost confidence 
erico@tekig1.PEN.TEK.COM       in your ability to perform...
(503) 627-4329                 the impossible!"  Capt. Jean-Luc Picard
"Choosy mothers choose .gif"  Anthony C. Zable
From: hlauria@infoserv.com (harvey lauria 121 walti st #4 santa cruz ca 95060 4084263093)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: BAR 84 AUTO ANALYZER FOR SALE
Keywords: Allen Engine-Gas Analyzer
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 92 19:46:12 PDT
Distribution: world
Organization: biochemical consultant

r \user\hlauria\sea
From: Douglas.R.Beekman@dartmouth.edu (Douglas R. Beekman)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: MGB Trouble
Date: 13 Aug 92 14:37:55 GMT
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH

Ever since I purchased my MG I have had acceleration problems. Unless I
am very careful not to accelerate too quickly, the engine hesitates for
a moment before "catching" and running normally. The car has a 1799cc
stock engine which has been equipped with an aftermarket Weber
down-draft.I have a set of jets for the carb, but either the mixture is
not the problem or I just havn't found the right combination. Also, the
vaccuum advance seems to be working properly. Can anyone give me any
suggestion?

Thank you very much,
Doug
  
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: mdl@phelixsalt (Michael Lynch)
Subject: Re: Magazine Ads
Reply-To: mdl@phelixsalt (Michael Lynch)
Organization: Bellcore
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 92 12:19:11 GMT

In article <16160@ucdavis.ucdavis.edu>, SDDASCOMB@UCDAVIS.EDU (Steve Dascomb) writes:
|> What's a good magazine to find old advertisements for 55-65 trucks.
|> Somebody had posted this earlier and I forgot the name. Some farm
|> journal I think.       Thanks, Steve Dascomb, SDDASCOMB@UCDAVIS.EDU


I'm not sure from your post whether you're looking for old ads, or ads
for old trucks.  If it's old ads, try auto flea markets and shows.  I've
built a nice collection of '53 Ford ads.  There are often vendors who have
the ads nicely categorized by make.

Mike Lynch
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: Flathead V8 temperature
From: Steve_Baldwin@kcbbs.gen.nz (Steve Baldwin)
Date: 20 Aug 92 21:41:25 GMT
Organization: Kappa Crucis Unix BBS, Auckland, New Zealand

What's more important than the actual temperature, is how much it changes 
under load and how fast it can recover.

If the temperature remains steady under low load and only increases 
a small amount under heavy load, you can be pretty confident about the 
cooling system. If it goes up quite a bit undr heavy load but recovers 
quite quickly once you drop back to a normal load, that's OK too. 

When it goes up a few degrees and you have to coast for a while to get 
it back down you have to start to worry.

If you can give it a good blast and then stop at lights and idle for 
a while without problems, you are trouble free.

Steve.

Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: glb@s1.gov (Gary L. Berry)
Subject: Flathead V8 temperature
Organization: llnl
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 23:16:47 GMT

Hey All;

	I have a brother-in-law that is heading to LA from Bay Area in
his 1949 Ford Tudor next weekend, and he is kind of worried about the
temperature that his engine reaches.  At operating range it sits at 200
degrees with a 4lb pressure cap.  It's a 100hp/239ci flathead engine,
and he believes it's the original one.  Anyway, it doesn't look like
this gives him a real cushion against hot weather (>100's) that we've
been experiencing.  So, does anyone know if this is normal for this
engine.  All my chevys tend to run between 160 and 190 depending on the
thermostat, and I feel that his ford should do the same.  Anyway, just
wondering if there is an answer out there.  Thanks in advance...

				Gary Berry
				glb@s1.gov
From: droland@milner.mitre.org (David A. Roland - Summer)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: Re: faq?  How to keep whitewall tires white?
Date: 20 Aug 92 19:38:41 GMT
Organization: The Mitre Corporation - Reston, VA

> 
> I put a set of Denman 560x15 whitewalls on my '57 VW bug about a year ago,
> and they will not stay white.  A couple of sources have recommended Comet
> cleanser, which I have tried a few times, was a lot of work, and still
> left them a mild dingy brown.  I've been warned against the miracle 
> whitewall bleaches cause they can do bad things to the tires long-term.
>
I use Fantastik (the kitchen appliance cleaner spray stuff) on my Jeep tires to clean the RWL that spend a lot of time in red clay and mud.  And they look like brand new when I get done, use a bathroom type bristle brush.  I've cleaned the tires often for over 2 years with no ill effects.  I think its cheaper than the just for tire stuff anyway especially for 33inch mudders!  And your more likely
to have it around the house.  Also Armour All cleaner will work to but is 
expensive.

-Al
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: Re: Brazing up sheet metal
Date: 12 Aug 92 14:48:38 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL


 Referring to the issue of painting over brass, I had asked about that before
and been told the only possibility might be using an etching primer. However
it's not a problem because I am covering up the repair with lead anyhow. 

 There do appear to be primers which will stick to galvanized metal. I have
means of spot-galvanizing and will be experimenting with a sort of hot-dip
technique on unmolested sheet metal areas; I have a 20-lb roll of soft zinc
strip and if it works it may be quicker than doing it electrically. I didn't
galvanize the areas where I'm doing leading; I didn't want additional 
interfaces to delaminate later. Anyhow, I expect that adhesion to brazed
surfaces might be improved if they were galvanized reliably.

 Has anyone tried plastic filler over lead? It's looking like I'll be adding
some serious weight if I lead the area completely. My main interest is in 
eliminating the steel-plastic interface and its moisture-trapping/rust
potential. However plastic-lead ought to be quite benign. If it sticks...
If nobody tells me I'll have to experiment and do some pull tests I guess.
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: jamie@garfield.cs.mun.ca (Jamie Cashin)
Subject: Looking for other '71 Olds 442 W30 Owners
Summary: Looking for other 71 Oldsmobile 442 Owners/Enthusiasts
Keywords: Olds 442 w30 W30 Oldsmobile Dr. Olds 1971
Organization: CS Dept., Memorial University of Newfoundland
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 02:57:45 GMT


I'm posting this for my cousin..

> I am currently restoring a 1971 Oldsmobile W30 Convertible (Frame off
> restoration) equipped with M22 4 speed, posi 3.73 10 bolt, dual plate clutch,
> exterior Burnt Orange, Sianna interior.  One of 110 W30's, one of 36 4 speed
> models.

> I would like to hear from people who would know of parts available, or who may
> be doing restoration themselves.  Tech help, tips appreciated also :)  I can
> provide information for those restoring same car.

reply via email to jamie@garfield.cs.mun.ca, ATTN Blair.

Jamie
-- 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
"To explore new worlds, seek out new             "be excellent to each other"
 life forms.   To go boldly where no
 DOS  programmer  has  gone before!"                 jamie@garfield.cs.mun.ca
From: brownr@hydra.rtp.dg.com (Tall Randy Brown)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: Re: Magazine Ads
Date: 20 Aug 92 14:23:20 GMT
Organization: DG-RTP Graphics Group

In article <1992Aug18@bellcore.com> mdl@phelixsalt (Michael Lynch) writes:
>In article <16160@ucdavis.edu>, SDDASCOMB@UCDAVIS.EDU (Steve Dascomb) writes:
>>
>> What's a good magazine to find old advertisements for 55-65 trucks.
>> Somebody had posted this earlier and I forgot the name. Some farm
>> journal I think.       Thanks, Steve Dascomb, SDDASCOMB@UCDAVIS.EDU
>
>I'm not sure from your post whether you're looking for old ads, or ads
>for old trucks.  If it's old ads, try auto flea markets and shows.  I've
>built a nice collection of '53 Ford ads.  There are often vendors who have
>the ads nicely categorized by make.

I have a bunch of old magazines from ~64-70, with a lot of full-color car
ads in them, some two-page layouts, all in excellent condition.

If anyone is interested in getting an original ad for their car from 
approximately this era (for framing or just for fun) send me a note.
I may create an index of them and set something up to distribute them
for a reasonable small fee (they would all be original magazine ads).

Randy
From: cobra@hpscit.sc.hp.com (Roland Dudley)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 17:12:44 GMT
Subject: Re: Flathead V8 temperature
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Clara, CA
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique

>From glb@s1.gov Mon Aug 17 16:16:47 1992
>Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 23:16:47 GMT
>Subject: Flathead V8 temperature
>Organization: llnl
>Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique

>Hey All;

>	I have a brother-in-law that is heading to LA from Bay Area in
>his 1949 Ford Tudor next weekend, and he is kind of worried about the
>temperature that his engine reaches.  At operating range it sits at 200
>degrees with a 4lb pressure cap.  It's a 100hp/239ci flathead engine,
>and he believes it's the original one.  Anyway, it doesn't look like
>this gives him a real cushion against hot weather (>100's) that we've
>been experiencing.  So, does anyone know if this is normal for this
>engine.  All my chevys tend to run between 160 and 190 depending on the
>thermostat, and I feel that his ford should do the same.  Anyway, just
>wondering if there is an answer out there.  Thanks in advance...

If your brother-in-law is using an ethylene glycol/water mix he may want
to consider changing this.  Water is a much better transferrer of heat
(though it does have a lower boiling point) than glycol.  To improve
cooling, replace the coolant with distilled water and add Red Line
WaterWetter.  Be sure he uses the crystals which contains lubricants.  If
he prefers or needs to use antifreeze, Red Line also sells a liquid
version of WaterWetter that doesn't contain any lubricants.  Use about a
30% mix of antifreeze in distilled water and add a bottle of
WaterWetter.  He should still see some improvement in cooling.
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: kbr@cbnews.cb.att.com (kenneth.b.reber)
Subject: Re: Model A Ford parts for sale
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 15:47:53 GMT

I have a bunch of Ford stuff for sale -

	Used carbs (not Zenith) - $10 each
	New "A" king pin set - $65
	Set of '32 headlights, excellent condition - $200
	'28 "AR" brake parts, complete cross shaft set plus extras - $100
	NOS script Ford 6 cylinder carb - $50
	"A" lower door seal rubber, new - $5.
	New "A" distributer breaker plate - $3.
	New "A" starter switch - $8.
	Used "A" water pumps - $10.
	'28-'29 headlights
	'30-'31 headlights
	Ford "T" tools, wrenches - $3 each
	"A" spare tire carrier - $20

(I need an early '28 Ford igniton switch and cable.)

Also have for '36-'38 Chevy new engine parts: valves - $3 ea, rocker arm
shafts and bearings - $10 ea.

This is only part of the stuff I had left over from several restoration
projects. I also have parts from '64 Chevelle, L29 Cord, '26 Willys-Knight -
if you have interest there, let me know.


Ken
614 837 9259 (evenings)
From: sab@gnv.ifas.ufl.edu
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: Old cars 4-sale:Anyone interested?
Date: 13 Aug 92 13:00:44 GMT

I ran across a couple of ads in my local electric company's
newsletter :

  1958 Chevrolet 6 cylinder $1250.00 ...write to N.Driggers;
       Rt.1 Box 43; Oldtown, FL 32680

 1934 Chevy 4 door master with sidemounts and bolt on trunk;
 1938 Packard 120 opera coupe;1939 Buick 4 door special $3000.00;
 1954 Chevy 2 door $3500.  (904) 493-4937

You now know as much as I do (location is in north central Florida).
Just thought that someone out there might be interested.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
   Steve Bloom       | "It's easier to find something that isn't
 Soil Science, U.Fla.|  there...when it's not there in large
SAB@GNV.IFAS.UFL.EDU |  quantities"  L.Slobodkin (Woods Hole, 1969)
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