HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: levyj@milton.u.washington.edu (Cliffclimber (yep...really))
Subject: Re: Climbing around D.C.
Organization: University of Washington
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 12:06:33 GMT

klawton1@cc.swarthmore.edu (Kathleen England Lawton) writes:

>Rocks or the Catoctin Mountains. The Potomac Appalacian Trail Club has
>cabins 
>in the Catoctins and also, I understand, offers free instruction to

Well, let me get the record straight on PATC, as a former officer of the
mountaineering section.  The MS is essentially autonomous with PATC.  PATC
proper is more of a hiking club, and is somewhat more conservative than the
mtneering section.  PATC/MS is a club open to all in the DC area.  There is
no climbing instruction per se....liability laws and all that.  BUT - 
newcomers are ALWAYS welcome on club trips, and there are always plenty of
people eager to teach.  You are expected to have the basic gear, and extra
ropes are of course useful.  You can contact the club by calling the main
PATC number...I don't remember Dusty's home phone number, since I've been in
Seattle for a year.  But you can also look up the active members: Dusty (Frank)
Wissmath is the current Chairman.  Other folks to contact are Jeannette
Helfrich, Jeff Kramer, Paula Grant, and John Yanson.  They're all in the book.
The club does mostly toproping trips to Great Falls, VA, Great Falls, MD,
Carderock, Annapolis Rocks (in VA), Crescent Rocks (near Manassas), and other
areas near DC.  There isn't much high rock in the immediate vicinity...for
lead climbing trips, club members head for the Gunks (6 hrs), Seneca Rocks (4-5)
and of course, the New River Gorge (6 hrs).  A 50-ft anchor rope is a must
for toproping around DC...preferably with a piece of tubular webbing protecting
the sheath.  Good climbing and good times can be found...you just have to look.
Oh...the club meets the second wednesday night of each month at PATC HQ in
Vienna, VA....again, any of the people mentioned above can give you directions.
Meetings are usually at 7:30 pm, and for a small amount, you get pizza and beer
and a slide show.  Club dues have been $15 for a long time, and the club puts
out a newsletter called Uprope.  If you do contact the club, tell 'em I said
hi :) My name is Jeffrey Levy. Good luck climbing in DC! :)
Jeffrey
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 00:36:11 -0400 
From: Michael Minhall Chang <mc7z+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: Artificial Walls

>Scott writes:
>Of the 3 methods the 3rd seems to be the cheapest.  I have found a place that
>claims they can spray a resin and rock mixture.  I haven't any information on
>the type of wall at REI, but am guessing that it would be the most expensive
>type.

I was wondering if you could post the company which can spray on the
resin rock mixture.  I'm involved in making a climing wall at CMU in
Penn.

Thanks 
Mike C.
From: che358w@vaxc.cc.monash.edu.au
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
Subject: Weather proofing paper mache ?? Help !!
Date: 5 Oct 92 16:02:21 +1000
Organization: Computer Centre, Monash University, Australia

Hi,
   In the latest Australian Hand-Made there was an article about paper mache
plates that looked great. "Chrissie Prezzies" I thought. So I was happily
mucking about in wall-paper glue when I thought "What about bird feeders ?".

The question is will the paper mache last long in the weather.

The paper mache is caoted with artists gesso (a white polymer emulsion) painted
with acrylic artists paint and varnished with artists varnish (2 coats).

1.  Will this be weather proof ?

2.  If it isn't can it be made weather proof ?

I thought about using house paint and varnish. Wil that make a difference or
will it be too heavy ?

If anyones had any experience with this sort of thing or can hazard a guess
I'd appreciate the help.

Samantha Lane
CHE358W@vaxc.cc.monash.edu.au
From: cathl@odin (Catherine Lyman)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
Subject: Re: Tide Clocks and Music Box Movements
Date: 29 Sep 92 16:44:07 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

In article <1992Sep27.134101.1170@cs.cornell.edu> sabel@cs.cornell.edu  
(Laura Sabel) writes:
> My mother has a "tide watch", and when I commented on it I was told
> that it is only useful for the east coast, because the Pacific
> coast of the US only has one high/low tide cycle per day (the
> Atlantic coast has two).  Can anyone out there confirm/explain this
> phenomenon?
> 
> 
> -Laura
> sabel@cs.cornell.edu

Looks like two to me from looking at my calender of tides!
(Tidelines, for the San Francisco area)
From: jlalou@elaine.ee.und.ac.za (JEAN-MARC LALOUETTE : THIRD)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
Subject: ? Hobby
Date: 2 Oct 1992 08:29:37 GMT
Organization: Electronic Eng., Univ. Natal, Durban, South Africa
NNTP-Posting-Host: pc77.ee.und.ac.za

THIS IS A POSTING THAT I DON'T KNOW WHERE TO PUT.

FOR J BLACKMAN

wanted by volunteer firefighter ::

Fire or rescue department sew on patches, or metallic clip or pin on badges, 
Mr Blackman is unable to reciprocate as he does not have any dept. issue.

Reply by airmail to

J Blackman
8 Macfarlane Drive
Gillitts
3610
Natal
South Africa
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
Subject: New Zealand Knife maker
From: graeme@geog.canterbury.ac.nz (Graeme Glen)
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 23:39:38 GMT
Organization: Geography Dept, Canterbury University, New Zealand
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]

{ I hope this is okay in this group, it is the only one I can find
{ remotely connected to this craft.
{
{ Graeme.
{ -------

My name is Chris Pennington and I am interested in contacting other
Knife makers who use D2 440C and 154CM steel for blades.

I would be interested in swapping information from Down Under.

I can be contacted through Graeme Glen, email
g.glen@geog.canterbury.ac.nz.

--
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Graeme Glen, Computer Technician | Data : g.glen@geog.canterbury.ac.nz     |
| Department of Geography          | Department Fax : (+64)(3) 3642907       |
| University of Canterbury         | Voice : (+64)(3) 3667001 Extn. 7952     |
| Christchurch, NEW ZEALAND        | University Fax : (+64)(3) 3642999       |
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
From: mcmorran@ll.mit.edu (Roy McMorran)
Subject: Re:  Jewelry Findings
Organization: MIT Lincoln Laboratory, Lexington, MA
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 92 20:41:49 GMT

In article <32120001@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com> miken@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com (Mike Nickerson) writes:
> A couple of people asked about sources for jewelry findings 
> recently....

I was just about to ask about this subject.  I'm looking for a source
for jewelry findings, i.e.

Bell Caps
Fish hook ear wires
Chain for necklaces

In materials such as sterling or brass.

If anyone recorded the responses to this thread could you post a summary
or (preferably) email it to me?  Mikes response is the only one that hasn't
expired here.

Thanks in advance!
Roy
-- 
Roy McMorran = mcmorran@ll.mit.edu // Now it's over I'm dead and I haven't
MIT Lincoln Laboratory             \\ done anything that I want, or I'm 
244 Wood Street B261               // still alive and there's nothing
Lexington, MA 02173                \\ I want to do...         -TMBG
From: ewilts@galaxy.gov.bc.ca (Ed Wilts)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
Subject: Re: Tide Clocks and Music Box Movements
Date: 30 Sep 92 02:19:07 GMT
Reply-To: EWILTS@GALAXY.GOV.BC.CA
Organization: BC Systems Corporation

In article <1992Sep29.164407.8888@informix.com>, cathl@odin (Catherine Lyman) writes:
> In article <1992Sep27.134101.1170@cs.cornell.edu> sabel@cs.cornell.edu  
> (Laura Sabel) writes:
>> My mother has a "tide watch", and when I commented on it I was told
>> that it is only useful for the east coast, because the Pacific
>> coast of the US only has one high/low tide cycle per day (the
>> Atlantic coast has two).  Can anyone out there confirm/explain this
>> phenomenon?
>> 
> Looks like two to me from looking at my calender of tides!
> (Tidelines, for the San Francisco area)

Around here it really varies.  Some days we have two high/low cycles, some days
we have one.  This is Vancouver Island, just northwest of Seattle, WA.

-- 

Ed Wilts, BC Systems Corp., 4000 Seymour Place, Victoria, B.C., Canada, V8X 4S8
EWilts@Galaxy.Gov.BC.CA   |   Ed.Wilts@BCSystems.Gov.BC.CA   |   (604) 389-3430
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
From: isr@rodan.acs.syr.edu (Michael S. Schechter - ISR group account)
Subject: Re: Stained Glass: how to hang
Organization: Syracuse University
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 92 11:02:46 EDT

In article <379274@bailey.UUCP> ben@bailey.UUCP (Ben Bailey) writes:
>> try using hi-strength solder or silver solder.
>> Both of these have higher melting points than typical solder.
>Will a regular soldering iron melt the silver solder?  Is this what
>is referred to as 'brazing'? (unsure of spelling).
>
>Ben

oh oh, i can of wormed.. Um, there's reguslar solder, then there's
hi strength solder, then there's low-temperaturs silver solder,
then there's regular silver solder, then thers high-strength silver
solder, then there's low-temp regular solder, 

But the answer to your question is... Depends. Standard silver solder,
probably not, unless it's a very hot iron.
here's some examples:
what             melt point
eutectic tin-lead       361  63/37 tin/lead not pasty
60/40 electronic type   374  standard solder
50/50 typ. metal shop   421  
40/60 'old' plumbing    460 large "pasty" melting region, weak
Water-safe              420 ok tensile str, no compresion (95%tin, 5%copper)
Silver bearing solder   464 2-3x stronger 96%tin 4%silver  $27/lb typical
silver solder          1125 extr strong, very expensive (40%silver)
phos-copp-silver       1350 very strong, also about $27/lb.

typical soldering iron temperatures are:
25W pencil   700
40W pencil   750
100W iron    900
150W gun     950
200W iron    1050
hi-temp gun  1000

one of those little handheld butane torches will have a soldering
temperature of about 850. using it as a torch gives you about 2000

I've seen special high-temp irons, for stained glass work that
claim 1200 deg.. they're 180W, 1/2" tip, about $44

well, i have to get back to work..
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
From: jdboer@sol.UVic.CA (Johan deBoer)
Subject: Tole painting
Organization: University of Victoria, Victoria, B.C. CANADA
Distribution: rec.crafts.misc
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 92 05:12:27 GMT

Hi, 
Has anyone come across books about tole painting? Our local bookstores
don't carry these, and I am sure there must be some around. If you have
any or know about one, could you please let me know the author, title
and publisher?

Thanks in advance.

Johan (for Eden, my wife) de Boer.


From: stevek@hp-ptp.ptp.hp.com (Steve Kite)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1992 18:23:18 GMT
Subject: Re: Stained Glass
Organization: HP Pacific Technology Park - Sunnyvale, Ca.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc

There isn't a specific stained glass group, however, rec.crafts.misc deals
with it as well as several other crafts!


Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
From: revans@uspi2.Prime.COM (Robbin Evans)
Subject: Re: Stained Glass: how to hang
Organization: Prime Computer, Inc.
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1992 15:12:58 GMT

In article <6017267@bailey.UUCP>, ben@bailey.UUCP (Ben Bailey) writes:

> She made a large oval shapped scene a couple of years ago.  She first soldered
> hang points using paper clips; they tore out of the solder joint.  I then
> made 'ears' out of solid 12 gauge copper wire; they also tore out of the 
> solder joints.  The solder joints were good; no 'cold' joints amoung them.
> She finally got a pro to put my copper ears back on using massive amounts
> of solder.  (The edge where the ears are soldered is channel molding).
> 
> My question is, how do you mount for hanging for heavy, large pieces?

I don't understand what you mean by 'cold' joints.  When I hang something,
I always try to bury the hanger into an inside seam of the piece, preferably
at a point where several joints meet, so that the pull isn't in the direction
of the hanger.  If I'm going to hang something from the edge of the piece,
I make a loop (as opposed to a circle, which is what I'll use if I hang
from the inside) and put each end of the loop going a different direction
down the side (a corner is preferable, a rounded edge if necessary; you
don't gain anything by doing this on a straight edge).  It helps to keep
the pull from being centered in one place.  (I know this is hard to explain
in words; it's much easier to show.)

Don't use paper clips to hang things!  Besides not looking good, you're
using metal that's been stressed by a fairly sharp bend to the wire.
(Don't we know how easy it is to break a paper clip.)  Use copper wire,
the heaviest gauge you can stand.  Some places will sell 'jump rings',
small rings that can use to hang pieces.  But these are easy to make 
yourself.  Whenever you're using wire (or lead came, for that matter),
you need to stretch it first.  (It's going to stretch, whether you do it
now or it does it over time due to the weight of your project.)  I do this
by wrapping the free end of the spool around a pair of pliers, unrolling
some wire, and then standing on the spool.  Pull as hard as you can; you'll
have it stretch a fair bit and then stop.  Now you can clip the wire and
it will be nice and straight for you.  (This works with lead came too,
but you'll need pliers at both ends, of course.  Now you can wind the
wire around any cylindrical object to get rings of the diameter you want;
just cut them with wire cutters.

Good luck and send mail if this is unclear.

/Robbin
revans@uspi2.prime.com

p.s.  I'm doing this with pieces put together using copper foil, so I don't
know if everything would make sense with lead pieces or not.
Xref: sparky rec.crafts.misc:736 rec.crafts.textiles:1772 sci.engr:2079
From: dhtucker@digi.lonestar.org (Doug Tucker)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
Subject: WANTED: Sources for Origami paper
Date: 26 Sep 92 17:37:56 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: woefully lacking

I'm looking for good mail-order sources for Origami paper and other 
supplies -- I've not had much success searching locally (Dallas/Ft.Worth).
Please respond by E-mail and I'll summarize for the net.

Thanks in advance.
From: ben@bailey.UUCP (Ben Bailey)
Subject: Re: Stained Glass: how to hang
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
Date: 1 Oct 92 02:15:13 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Ben Bailey's Home..Tampa Fl.

isr@rodan.acs.syr.edu (Michael S. Schechter - ISR group account) writes:
> Use a longer length of wire, with a long length in the direction of pull,
> this will make your solder joint longer & stronger.
> 
> try using hi-strength solder or silver solder.
> Both of these have higher melting points than typical solder.

Will a regular soldering iron melt the silver solder?  Is this what
is referred to as 'brazing'? (unsure of spelling).

Ben
--
Ben Bailey                 ben@bailey.uucp -- bailey!ben@uunet.uu.net
12210 Shady Forest Dr.     ben@bailey.tscs.com
Riverview, Fl. 33569       -- The main thing is to keep the main
813-677-5021                  thing the main thing.  Mainly.
From: sgccrjh@citec.oz.au (Robert Howlett)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
Subject: Where to find VELLUM ?
Date: 6 Oct 92 06:13:03 GMT
Organization: CITEC
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4

A friend of mine is a professional Illuminator (medival manuscripts
and the like).

Here in Australia, the supply of good quality vellum 
has been gradually dwindling away.

Recently, production of vellum finished completely.

Consequently my friend is now looking for an overseas source
of vellum to continue her work.

If anyone has any information of a supplier (must be high quality)
please email me the details or post on this board.


-- 

Robert Howlett              Internet: sgccrjh@citecuc.citec.oz.au
Unix System Administrator   Phone:    +61-7-834-2895
Department Of Transport     Fax:      +61-7-834-2911
From: tony@scotty.dccs.upenn.edu (Anthony Olejnik)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
Subject: Q: request for (beginners) book/magazine/articles on Stained Glass
Date: 3 Oct 92 14:18:06 GMT
Organization: University of Pennsylvania

I`m starting to get interested in stained glass.
Can anyone recommend any goo beginner books/magazines/articles on
stained glass?

Thanks in advance.

--tony
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
From: bohrer@mcc.com (Bill Bohrer)
Subject: was re: small ball joints, etc.
Organization: MCC, Austin, TX
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 17:03:15 GMT


SOmeone posted a request for information on where to get small parts
like ball joints, etc. unfortunately the article expired before I
could get my act together to get the information from home to work.

This place is great, I'm sure they'll have what you're looking for:

Small Parts Inc.
6901 N.E. Third Avenue
PO Box 381736
Miami,  FL  33138

(305) 751-0856

(if this doesn't work, double check with me, I'm rather dyslexic and
numbers are a major hurdle... you can't SPELL-CHECK them!)

Bill Bohrer
bohrer@mcc.com

Microelectronics and Computer Technology Corporation
(MCC ... the "T" didn't conform to the industry-wide
three-initial-standard..)
3500 West Balcones Center Drive
Austin,  TX  78759-6509
(512)343-0978




-- 
"How many times have YOU used the word 'fro' in YOUR lifetime, and 
 why the hell does every spell-check dictionary in existence  have 
 this nasty little monster in there???"

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
From: isr@rodan.acs.syr.edu (Michael S. Schechter - ISR group account)
Subject: Re: Stained Glass: how to hang
Organization: Syracuse University
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 92 12:08:40 EDT

Use a longer length of wire, with a long length in the direction of pull,
this will make your solder joint longer & stronger.

try using hi-strength solder or silver solder.
Both of these have higher melting points than typical solder.

For really strong joints, you could use phos-copper brazing rod.
This however melts around 1100 deg, you'll need a propane torch,
and you should put it on as one of the first things. It's also
about $15/ pound. (less than silver solder, though)

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
From: cav@bnr.ca (Rick Cavasin)
Subject: Re: Where to find VELLUM ?
Reply-To: cav@bnr.ca (Rick Cavasin)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Tue, 06 Oct 92 15:24:19 GMT

I make parchment/vellum by hand using techniques
based on those used during the middle ages.

I have sent you e-mail with further details.

Cheers,
Rick C.
From: avr@cs.purdue.EDU (Andrew V. Royappa)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
Subject: Candlemaking supplies
Date: 4 Oct 92 23:01:32 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Department of Computer Science, Purdue University

Hi there. My wife is interested in making candles. We've looked for
candlemaking supplies (wax, dyes, wicks, stearine, perfume) in the
local craft stores -- only one of them carries any. The price of wax
is $16 per block (11 lbs). At that cost it would be hard to make nice
candles much cheaper than what they cost ready-made. 

Thus we were wondering if people knew of any mail-order craft stores where
such supplies can be bought a little cheaper (perhaps by ordering larger 
quantities). If you know of any, could you please send me a note ? I'd 
appreciate it. It doesn't have to be a strictly candle-supply business 
either, my wife is interested in various other crafts as well and would 
probably like to hear about mail-order craft supply stores in general.

Thanks for any help.

				Andrew Royappa
				avr@purdue.edu
				{decvax,ucbvax,pur-ee}!purdue!avr
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
From: Moritz@cvmmdl2.msstate.edu (K.Moritz)
Subject: scrub suit pattern
Organization: Mississippi State University
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 01:28:47 GMT

Hi,
I'm a veterinary student and we are in the process of starting to do
surgeries.  I'm interested in finding a pattern for our surgery scrubs.
They look really easy to sew, except I don't think I want to take one 
apart to try to make a pattern (they are too expensive).  If anyone out
there has ever made these or knows the pattern number, please drop me a 
line.
Thanks,
Kristin
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
From: sabel@cs.cornell.edu (Laura Sabel)
Subject: Re: Tide Clocks and Music Box Movements
Organization: Cornell Univ. CS Dept, Ithaca NY 14853
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 1992 13:41:01 GMT

twl10@ccc.amdahl.com (Tom Littauer) writes:

>Both items are available from:

>Klockit
>Post Office Box 636
>Lake Geneva
>Wisconsin 53147 USA
>800-556-2548
>or +1 414 248 1150

>This place sells mainly parts for you to build your own (movements, hands,
>etc.)

>Their comment on the tide clock movement is that it's the lunar day
>(24 h 50 min) and "is for East Coast USA" although why the restriction
>is beyond me. Inland might be on an odd cycle, but the Pacific???

My mother has a "tide watch", and when I commented on it I was told
that it is only useful for the east coast, because the Pacific
coast of the US only has one high/low tide cycle per day (the
Atlantic coast has two).  Can anyone out there confirm/explain this
phenomenon?


-Laura
sabel@cs.cornell.edu
From: ben@bailey.UUCP (Ben Bailey)
Subject: Re: Stained Glass: how to hang
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
Date: 30 Sep 92 00:19:40 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Ben Bailey's Home..Tampa Fl.

revans@uspi2.Prime.COM (Robbin Evans) writes:
> In article <6017267@bailey.UUCP>, ben@bailey.UUCP (Ben Bailey) writes:
> 
> > She made a large oval shapped scene a couple of years ago.  She first soldered
> > hang points using paper clips; they tore out of the solder joint.  I then
> > made 'ears' out of solid 12 gauge copper wire; they also tore out of the 
> > solder joints.  The solder joints were good; no 'cold' joints amoung them.
> > She finally got a pro to put my copper ears back on using massive amounts
> > of solder.  (The edge where the ears are soldered is channel molding).
> > 
> > My question is, how do you mount for hanging for heavy, large pieces?
> 
> I don't understand what you mean by 'cold' joints.  When I hang something,
                                      ^^^^^^

That's a term from my electronic days.  When you join electronic components
with solder, a cold solder joint refers to a joint where the metal end from 
the component never reached the melting point of the solder.  It would appear
that the solder joint was good, but you could pull the metal end out with
your fingers; it might look good, but it was a loose, poor joint that might
fail in the future.  

The key to a good solder joint is getting the metal that is to be joined up
to the melting point of the solder.  This can be assisted by holding the 
solder to the hot iron until a small bubble appears on the iron tip.  This
bubble will assist in transfering heat from the hot iron to the metal.  You
then put the bubble against the metal, and feed additional solder to that
hot iron/metal point, again trying to form a small bubble to assist in
transferring heat from the iron to the metal.  If the metal never heats
up enough, and you put the solder onto the metal, a little of it might
stick, but it will not bind properly to the metal.  You can sometimes
flick this off with your fingernail.  (This would be the cold solder
joint - the metal was too cold for the solder to adhere properly).  If
you succeed in transfering heat from the iron to the metal, at some point
the metal will become hot enough to melt the solder applied directly to 
the metal itself (not to the iron then running onto the metal).  When this
happens, you have a good solder joint.

Hope that's clear.  Thanks a lot for your informative letter!

Ben
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: peterm@dtc.hp.com (Sweet Pete)
Subject: Re: aau's vs. hbu's
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 18:32:06 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: Where No Man Has Gone Before

As I understand it AAU/HBU is only an approximation anyway.  Papazian gives
simple formulae for calculating IBUs, which can incorporate not only the
volume but the concentration.  Being an extract brewer this is a real help.
I'd switch to IBUs.

	Peter
-- 
Peter C. Maxwell,                      ARPA:   peterm@dtc.hp.com
Hewlett-Packard Company,
5301 Stevens Creek Blvd, MS 53U/36,    UUCP:   ..!hplabs!hpdtlpm!peterm
Santa Clara, CA 95052-8059             (408) 553 2512
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing