HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: aloh@BBN.COM (Anthony Ta Hui Loh)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: torque wrench question
Date: 14 Apr 1992 22:46:39 GMT
Organization: Bolt Beranek and Newman Inc., Cambridge MA
Distribution: world
Reply-To: aloh@BBN.COM (Anthony Ta Hui Loh)
NNTP-Posting-Host: archive.bbn.com

This is a simple question, with I hope a simple answer.

I am going to use a torque wrench (one with a ratchet that let's go 
at the right torque value, instead of the type with a pointer to
a scale fixed to a bending shaft).

In order to apply it to the bolt, I have to use an extension rod and a
universal joint:

             ______    UNIVERSAL
      ,---, |      |     JOINT
//////:---: |      |==(0)        //
      `---` |______|    \\      // HANDLE
  HEXAGONAL  SOCKET      \\    // OF TORQUE
       BOLT               \\  //    WRENCH
       HEAD                \\//
                           (@)


The question is: Does it matter that the torque is being applied to the
bolt through the universal joint?

I think the answer is that if the bolt rotates 90 degrees while the handle
of the torque wrench moves through a ninety degree arc, then the torque
perceived by the bolt and the torque wrench are the same.  If the same
amount of work is being done, then the same amount of force is required,
right?

What bothers me is that I can't quite see how the universal joint could
mess things up if it's bent, say 45 degrees.  But, if the universal joint
is bent 90 degrees it won't work at all, because it isn't a perfectly
flexible coupling, it's actually like the U-joint on a drive axle.

Please send email answers since I'm way behind on reading rec.autos.tech

                                           Thanks, Tony Loh
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: stiegg@marcus.its.rpi.edu (Gregory Mark Stiegler)
Subject: Re: catalytic catastrophe on Miata (FIXED!)
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1992 01:12:36 GMT

coleman@riemann.gsfc.nasa.gov () writes:

>For those who read my post yesterday concerning my dead cat.
>on my miata, I owe it to Mazda to post this update. 

>Mazda is going to give me a new cat. and also pay the labor
>as a "good will gesture."
I should have posted this with the original article but oh well...

It almost sounds like someone dropped a nut/bolt down the exhaust pip
when they changed the engine block.  Since its NOT going to get 
throught the CAT it would sure rattle around there...

Just a thought.
   Greg

-- 
===========================================================================
  "Bureaucracy is a challenge to be conquered with a righteous attitude,
     a tolerance for stupidity, and a bulldozer when necessary"
                  -- Peter's Laws
From: ppa@col.hp.com (Paul Austgen)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1992 15:54:42 GMT
Subject: Re: Economics&OldVolvos
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

Volvo parts are more expensive that those for older american
cars, but no more so than for japanese cars.  If the car has been
cared for and is not a lemon, then it could easily go another
100,000 miles.  I drive all my Volvos at least this far.  They go
through mufflers pretty fast, so you might want to buy lifetime
types so that they can get replaced.

Paul

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
From: hiran@ee.uts.edu.au (Hiran Wijetilaka)
Subject: Car alarms .. info wanted
Organization: University of Technology, Sydney, Australia
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 01:14:07 GMT
Keywords: alarms autos car

Hi folks,

I am looking to purchase a car alarm suitable for a soft-top (ie. convertible),
any advice, experiences would be most appreciated on makes, models, pro's and
con's ... I would summarise all replies and post same to this group.


The following characteristics are required:
          battery backup
          input for doors, bonnet, boot, shock sensors, infra-red
          remote operation
          ....etc
BTW, mail order companies are ok.
Please reply via email to,

                         hiran@ee.uts.edu.au
From: JBEST@ESOC.BITNET (Jon)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Fuel octane versus power
Date: 8 Apr 92 08:04:38 GMT
Article-I.D.: ESOC.92099.084312JBEST
Organisation: Serco Space Ltd. @ ESOC

Does anyone out there know how a change in octane rating affects power?
AND BEFORE YOU LEAP IN and say higher octane - more power, what I'd like
to know is whether there's a fixed relation between octane and power.
F'rinstance if you bump up the octane by x% how can you calculate the
percentage change in power?

Just curious!

   Jon
From: sandyr@hpgrla.gr.hp.com (Sandyr Reutter)
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1992 17:45:38 GMT
Subject: Re: Gets hot and dies...
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Greeley, CO
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech



Is this an automotive-type ignition or a magneto system?


                      Sandy

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hacker@cco.caltech.edu (Jonathan Bruce Hacker)
Subject: Re: monza exhaust system
Keywords: monza
Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena
Distribution: na
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1992 18:49:43 GMT

georgej@gtephx.UUCP (Jefferson George) writes:

>I am thinking of getting a MONZA exhaust system for my
>wife's 84 Celica.  Any good/bad experience with this
>brand.  I received a fax on how the system looks like.
>It connects to the catalytic converter and has a
>dual tip existing the muffler.

Be aware that the increased noise can be really obnoxious
on long trips.  I put an aftermarket (Dobi) exhaust on my
Supra.  Although it is not exceptionally loud, I find it very
tiring to listen to a droning exhaust for hours on end.
I am going back to the stock exhaust.

My two cents :-)

-- 
Jon Hacker
Caltech, Pasadena CA
hacker@tumbler-ridge.caltech.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.sport,rec.autos.driving
From: rbt@dracut.keps.kodak.com (Bob Tufts)
Subject: Re: Racial Discrimination at Mitsubishi
Organization: Kodak Electronic Printing Systems
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1992 21:08:22 GMT

What's this doing in rec.autos.sport? Oh I know, maybe "racial 
discrimination" is a loose thread into "Senna bashing"  :-)
You certainly vented your personal frustration into a high
bandwidth "shotgun blast".

And now back to the race that's already in progress!

-Bob T.
From: aqn@tivoli.UUCP (Andy Nguyen)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: rolling a car
Date: 10 Apr 92 13:22:59 GMT
Reply-To: aqn@tivoli.UUCP (Andy Nguyen)
Organization: Tivoli Systems Inc., Austin, TX

fwk@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (f.w.kerfoot..iii) writes:
+From my observations, it is difficult or impossible to roll most
+street cars by sliding them sideways. Exceptions include:
+
+-Suzuki Samari's (as previously noted), some Jeeps, and other 
+exceptionally high and narrow cars

  I would like to point out that to roll a Jeep or a Samurai, you need to
  do some pretty _dramatic_ moves, like pounding along at high speed, slamming
  on the brake and attempt a _sharp_ U-turn at the same time.  Those two cars
  are not all that much more prone to rolling than others.  The difference
  is that they _can_ be rolled, albeit with the above _really_bone_head_
  move.  Oh, also, if "20/20" or "60 Minutes" is watching, they _really_ are
  more prone to rolling!
-- 
Andy Nguyen / Team Paranoid
(212) 267-7722				...!uunet!tivoli!aqn  OR  aqn@tivoli.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ah881@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Joyce Brabner)
Subject: SQUEAKING STEERING WHEEL
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio, (USA)
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 92 04:58:51 GMT


The steering wheel on our 85 Toyota Tercel (automatic) now
squeaks, when we make turns.  This might be something we'll
have to ask a mechanic to check out.  Is this a well-known sign
of serious trouble that should be dealt with right away, or can
it wait until the next tune-up?  I'm pretty sure it's the steering 
wheel itself, not a sound from the wheels or tires.  

E-mail advice, please!
--
From: jws@cica4.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump in a 82 Jetta
Date: 9 Apr 92 16:58:11 GMT
Article-I.D.: mlb.1992Apr9.165811.7261
Distribution: usa
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL


 Most modern cars have the fuel pump shut off if there is no oil pressure,
for safety reasons I suppose; however it also makes troubleshooting a pain.
You may need to pull the oil pressure sender connector and jumper it to 
the block (or leave open, depending on the logic of the sender).
--
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kenny@juniorx.osf.org (Kenneth Crudup)
Subject: Re: SQUEAKING STEERING WHEEL
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1992 18:35:10 GMT

In article <51330010@hpscit.sc.hp.com> spikes@hpscit.sc.hp.com (Bill Spikes) writes:
>To those of you about to attack that squeaking steering wheel....
>If you have an air bag waiting for you in the wheel:
>Diconnect the cars battery, and then the "backup power supply" BEFORE
>you pull the wheel off. Beware of white wires in the steering column
>on late model Tauri!

Are these "words of wisdom" from experience?

-- 
Kenneth R. Crudup, Contractor, OSF DCE QA
OSF, 11 Cambridge Center, Cambridge, MA 02142	+1 617 621 7306
kenny@osf.osf.org	OSF doesn't make me say any of the above.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: tgl@slee01.srl.ford.com (Tom Leone)
Subject: Re: Are Bendix disk brakes supposed to drag? ('78 Scout)
Organization: Ford Motor Company Scientific Research Labs, Dearborn, MI
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 13:03:11 GMT

: troby@diana.cair.du.edu (Thorn Roby) writes:
: 
: >noticed that both wheels dragged slightly when rotated. The mechanic
: >said that was normal for Bendix brakes of this era. Another mechanic
: >at Midas who seemed pretty familiar with Scouts said that was wrong 
: >and the calipers needed to be rebuilt. The drag is stronger at some
: >points of the rotation than others, and stronger on one wheel than the
: >other.
  
and jbm@eos.arc.nasa.gov (Jeffrey Mulligan) replies:

: In a disc system (unlike drum brakes) there are no springs to pull the
: pistons back in after an application of the brake, so it is normal
: to be able to detect a slight amount of drag when turning the wheel

Although there are no separate springs, the seals are designed
to pull the pistons back in a few ten thousandths of an inch.
This should be enough to eliminate brake drag IF everything else
is in good condition.

In reality, a warped brake rotor will cause drag at some points
of rotation.  A caliper that doesn't slide freely will cause
constant drag on one side of the rotor.  A sticky piston or
tired seal will cause constant drag on both sides of the rotor.

Whether these are worth repairing is up to you.  If the wheel is
difficult to turn by hand, I would repair it.  If not, the drag
may go away after driving for awhile (due to vibrations and such
pushing the pads back in).  You could try driving for awhile,
stopping with the parking brake (don't touch brake pedal), then
test if the wheels are still hard to turn.

Feel free to e-mail me with any questions.
Tom Leone <tgl@slee01.srl.ford.com>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: wilson@schaefer.math.wisc.edu (Bob Wilson)
Subject: Re: Stupid Headlight question
Reply-To: wilson@math.wisc.edu (Bob Wilson)
Organization: Univ. of Wisconsin Dept. of Mathematics
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 92 15:28:51 GMT

In article <846@telxon.UUCP> joes@telxon.UUCP (Joe Staudt) writes:
>In article <3970039@hpsad.sad.hp.com> ggg@hpsad.sad.hp.com (Gary Goodlund) 
>writes:
>>... Usually replacing the bulb is all that's required.  Of
>>course the dealers aren't giving away the headlights on the new cars!!  One
>>effect of the new stream-lined halogen headlights is that they tend to cost
>>several times what the old round sealed beam lights used to cost.  
>
>BZZT! Wrong!
>
>I didn't see the original post, but I assume the question had something to do
>with replacing a burned-out headlight.  The "new stream-lined halogen 
>headlights" Gary refers to are actually only headlight covers, or lenses, just
>like on your taillights.  This cover CAN be expensive to replace, but you only
>need to replace it if it gets broken.  The actual headlight bulb INSIDE the
>cover costs about the same as a comparable sealed-beam headlight.
>
BZZT! Wrong!
BZZT! Wrong!
That is true of SOME of the new headlights but definitely not all.
Whether they are really so small or so weirdly shaped that they
CANNOT use the replaceable elements or whether we are just being
ripped off I don't know, but many of the new shapes have to be
replaced completely and some of them cost more than $100.
Bob Wilson
wilson@math.wisc.edu
From: aadada@eos.ncsu.edu (ALEEM ABDUL DADA)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: TRIPLE EDGE WIPER QUESTION
Keywords: HELP
Date: 8 Apr 92 22:02:32 GMT
Reply-To: aadada@eos.ncsu.edu (ALEEM ABDUL DADA)
Organization: Project EOS - North Carolina State University

DEAR FRIENDS, 

           AS I WAS WALKING ALONG THE AISLES OF THE LOCAL PEP BOYS YESTERDAY,
I NOTICED A DISPLAY FOR "TRIPLE EDGE WIPERS".  THE AD CLAIMED THAT THE WIPERS
WOULD NEVER GO BAD AND DO A BETTER JOB OF WIPING.  I FOUND THE PRICE OF $15 
PRETTY STEEP FOR WIPERS.  MY QUESTION IS, IS THERE ANYONE OUT THERE WHO HAS
TRIED A PAIR AND IS IT REALLY WORTH THE MONEY?

  	    THANKS IN ADVANCE.

				XXX
From: davet@ksr.com (Dave Teichholtz)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Engine Temp Quickly "Surges" Up & Down
Date: 8 Apr 92 12:43:21 EDT
	<1992Apr7.235357.12207@news.Hawaii.Edu>
Organization: Kendall Square Research, Waltham, MA
In-reply-to: osborne@uhunix.uhcc.Hawaii.Edu's message of 7 Apr 92 19:53:57 EDT

In article <1992Apr7.235357.12207@news.Hawaii.Edu> osborne@uhunix.uhcc.Hawaii.Edu (Larry N. Osborne) writes:


>   Happened to me three times:  Once it was a bad water pump, once frozen
>   hoses, and once (blush) low water level.  

   -oz
   --
   osborne@uhunix.uhcc.hawaii.edu (preferred)      | Larry N Osborne
   osborne@uhunix.bitnet                           | SLIS, 2550 The Mall
   fax +1 808 956 5835                             | University of Hawaii at Manoa

    Frozen hoses in Hawaii?!?!? 

  (I know it probably happened somewhere else, I just couldn't resist! :-))

--
============================================================================
David Teichholtz                 Kendall Square Research 
davet@ksr.com                    170 Tracer Lane, 
(617) 895-9466                   Waltham Mass. 02154-1379

Women think men will change after marriage.  Men think women won't.
They're both wrong
From: pharvey@mipos3.intel.com (Paul Harvey)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: QUESTION ON AFFECT OF CAMBER
Date: 6 Apr 92 20:14:35 GMT

In article <591.88.uupcb@chaos.lrk.ar.us> dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) writes:
>Most cars have negligible deflection of the steering linkage.  Toe
>mainly affects steering "feel".  Wide tires, changing from bias to
>radials, or going from street to competition tires will change toe
>requirements.  A performance alignment will set toe to zero or very
>minor toe-in.

Some cars have rubber steering dampers that deflect under load. Wheel
bearing play is a source of some deflection. As the rod ends wear, 
(normal, not excessive wear!), they add some more deflection. A 
"performance alignment", (does this cost more?), is ussually 1/16"
toe-in. Most of this is compensation for tire flexing. The problem with
zero toe is that it could become toe-out due to any of the factors 
given above, and this normally gives erratic steering. You can check
steering deflection by loading the inside front tire edges with some
type of wood rod and spring setup, if you get none then zero toe
should be fine or you can set zero toe under loading.

From: mdrayton@hpmwtd.HP.COM (Mike Drayton)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1992 23:32:15 GMT
Subject: Re: Rings->Can you just replace w/o reboring?+Bearings.
Organization: HP Santa Rosa Site (NMD MTA MWTD). - Santa Rosa, Ca.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

 PAH112@psuvm.psu.edu (Peter Howard) writes:
I have a simple question.  Can I just replace the rings on my car w/o reboring
the cylinders?  I guess I would have to de-glaze them though.

Can you just replace crankshaft+con.rod bearings w/o regrinding the crank?
----------
I've done it.  Drove the car for 8 more years after that.  I did
careful measurement and inspection first, though.  The crank never got
touched in 20 years of heavy service, though it did get 2 sets of
bearings.  The car was a '65 Mercedes 190 (1.9 liter 4-cylinder gas).
The body disintegrated, but the engine still kept on ticking...

Mike Drayton
mdrayton@sr.hp.com
From: rghoff@bb1t.monsanto.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: HKS Turbo Kits
Date: 9 Apr 92 11:27:21 CST
Organization: Monsanto Company, St. Louis, MO

In article <johnson.702604630@wrs.com>, johnson@wrs.com (David Johnson) writes:
> frank@terapin.com (Chun Li) writes:
> 
>>I have heard from my friend that HKS now makes Turbo systems for CRX/Civic Si
>>that will push the engine to about 200hp AND California legal.  Is this true?
> 
>>Is it good to put 200hp on the front wheel?  I think the highest output front
>>wheel drive car is Tarus SHO at 220hp.  Hum... last summer when I went back to
>>Taiwan, I saw some 1.6L V-TECH turbo screamers that do 200+hp... nice!!
> 

Hi Frank,

Something to consider....You'll need to switch to lower compression pistions.
Seems like they need to drop down to 7.5:1 or so. I think your 1.6 is
probably sitting closer to 9.5:1 or greater.

If you've got a standard transmission, you'll probably need a different
clutch also.

Why not just get nitrous? It'll give you 50 to 75hp, plus it cost alot
less.

Rick.



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kevin@taronga.taronga.com (Kevin Brown)
Subject: Re: TRIPLE EDGE WIPER QUESTION
Reply-To: kevin@taronga.taronga.com (Kevin Brown)
Organization: Minimal.
Distribution: dal
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1992 00:37:56 GMT

In article <1992Apr9.132536.14373@cs.dal.ca> gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca (Andy) writes:
>In <1992Apr8.220232.24299@ncsu.edu> aadada@eos.ncsu.edu (ALEEM ABDUL DADA) writes:
>
>>DEAR FRIENDS, 
>
>>           AS I WAS WALKING ALONG THE AISLES OF THE LOCAL PEP BOYS YESTERDAY,
>>I NOTICED A DISPLAY FOR "TRIPLE EDGE WIPERS".  THE AD CLAIMED THAT THE WIPERS
>>WOULD NEVER GO BAD AND DO A BETTER JOB OF WIPING.  I FOUND THE PRICE OF $15 
>>PRETTY STEEP FOR WIPERS.  MY QUESTION IS, IS THERE ANYONE OUT THERE WHO HAS
>>TRIED A PAIR AND IS IT REALLY WORTH THE MONEY?
>
>>  	    THANKS IN ADVANCE.
>
>Well, I got this thing for them in the mail and I got them. 
>1) They claim that they will never freeze to the windshield - FALSE
>2) Don't know about them in snowy conditions, got them too late
>3) They do a good job in the rain, they don't smear (so far) unlike many
>other wipers that I tried. This alone is worth $15 for me.

This hasn't been my experience.  I tried them and they smeared the first
day I got them.

I tried two pairs of them to make sure it wasn't simply a manufacturing
defect.

As far as I'm concerned, they're junk.

>Good luck
>Andy


		Kevin Brown (kevin@taronga.taronga.com)
From: davet@ksr.com (Dave Teichholtz)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Honda Tachometer not working
Date: 10 Apr 92 09:50:38 EDT
Organization: Kendall Square Research, Waltham, MA


The tachometer on my Wife's 1986 Honda Civic has stopped working (actually,
it stopped working before I bought the car a year ago :-)). I have sort of
looked for a loose wire around the distributor, but have not seen anything
obvious. I would now like to try to fix it, and  don't want to spin my wheels
(pun intended) looking for the problem. Does anyone have any pointers 
about how to go about looking for the problem, i.e testing the tach and 
where I should be getting signals etc. I am not a novice about fixing 
automotive electrical problems, and have most of the tools (VOM, chain saw,etc)
that might be required for this type of repair. Thanks in advance.

-David
--
============================================================================
David Teichholtz                 Kendall Square Research 
davet@ksr.com                    170 Tracer Lane, 
(617) 895-9466                   Waltham Mass. 02154-1379

Women think men will change after marriage.  Men think women won't.
They're both wrong
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:5942 rec.autos.driving:2489
From: bphdarcy@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (SJ Roc D'Arcy, MBP)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.driving
Subject: Re: Photo-Radar in New Jersey - Call your representatives TODAY!!!
Date: 17 Apr 92 14:22:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <1992Apr16.220431.19610@wuecl.wustl.edu>, anbo@wuee1.wustl.edu (Albrecht Jander) writes...
>In article <1992Apr16.175546.25677@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> whs70@dancer.UUCP () writes:
>>The state police have made their big announcement about the beginning
>>of PhotoRadar being used in NJ.
>[stuff slashed]
>>Think about it: Your son/daughter (or maybe your spouse or friend)
>>is driving a car registered in your name and drives through a photoradar
>>site.  A ticket is issued to YOU, for which YOU must pay and YOU
>>get points on YOUR license as well as higher insurance costs.
>>Of course you could always "rat" on the other person.  Boy, doesn't this

>It takes a little more than driving through a radar site.  You have to
>be driving faster than the law allows.  Maybe it will make you think
>twice about loaning your car to an irresponsible driver.  

I think this argument is moot in most states.  If I interpret the way the
law is written correctly, the "privilege" to drive and the laws of 
enforcement to that "right," put the responsibility solely on the driver
of the vehical, not the owner.  Be great to see what rental agents are
going to do.  Just think of the civil suits.  

What about a business with company cars that have multiple drivers?  
Just add one more reason to move the company somewhere else.

>>Also, if NJ does this, how soon will it be before your state adds
>>photoradar to its list of anti-motorist techniques?
> 
>If it is speed limits that you are opposed to, then say so.  It doesn't
>make sense to make a law, but not allow for its inforcement.

The law is stupid (extortion is a better term), but using photo radar
is nothing more than a cheap attempt at increased revenues.  I would
really like to see how many photo tickets could really hold up in court
against a half decent defence.

SJRD
From: c.oneill@trl.oz.au (Chris O'Neill)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Freon Freeze!
Date: 13 Apr 92 01:21:51 GMT
Organization: Telecom Australia Research Laboratories

In article <53647@hydra.gatech.EDU> jh26@prism.gatech.EDU (Jay Harrell) writes:
>> Liquified petroleum gas (LPG) powered vehicles are quite common in
Australia,
>> perhaps not so common in the US.  Does anyone know if a hydrocarbon charged
>> air-conditioner is any more dangerous than an LPG tank and supply system.
>> 
>> Chris O'Neill
>> Telecom Australia Research Labs
>
>I would say that LPG in an A/C would be dangerous because you are piping
>it through the inside of the car.  If a leak develops, you could fill
>the interior of the car with flamable gas fairly quickly.

So is this any more dangerous and likely than a leak in an LPG pwered vehicle?

Chris O'Neill