From: kim@castle.wpd.sgi.com (Kim Rachmeler)
Subject: Re: troublesome puppy
Keywords: puppy, behavior, problems
Reply-To: kim@wpd.sgi.com
Organization: SGI CASE Products Group	
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 20:30:52 GMT

	I had similar problems with my female Australian Shepard puppy.
  Here are some of the techniques we used to solve them.

In article <16084@borg.cs.unc.edu>, whitaker@verdi.cs.unc.edu (Ross Whitaker) writes:
|> 1) Biting.  We have discouraged this since we have owned him and have
|> seen very little improvement (except his teeth aren't as deadly).  We 
|> have used a strong "NO!" to discourage him.  Currently he will put his 
|> teeth on a limb and apply minimal pressure, but he will as do very rapid,
|> painful, "nips" with his front teeth.  

	My dog Foster nipped quite a bit as a puppy too.  When she was
  very young (<5 months) we just yelled "Ow" when she bit and refused
  to play anymore.  As she got older, the biting decreased.  On the
  occassional lapse, we started holding her muzzle until she whined to
  be released.  We then presented a hand to lick with much praise when
  she did so.  Now she licks just about everything just about all the
  time -- the shameless hussy :-).

|> 2) Stealing things.  When he was young he seemed to very quickly develop a 
|> sense for which things were his and which were not.  We could leave things 
|> lying around and he would not bother them.  Or he might try them, but
|> would respond to a short reprimand.  But as he gets older he seems to be
|> fighting back more.

	Foster still does this.  Her favorite is to pick up socks out of
  the bedroom and deposit them in the living room.  She doesn't chew on
  them she just redistributes them.  We've tried telling her "No", catching
  her in the act, and booby traps.  We've only succeeded in lowering
  the frequency.  I guess we'll just have to start picking up after
  ourselves :-).  Whatever you do, don't turn it into a game of tag --
  you'll never break that habit.

|> 3) Come.  In the house, he generally comes when called.  He knows his
|> name quite well, and mentioning his name will often bring him prancing
|> into the room to see you.  Outside is a different story.  If he is
|> distracted, he ignores you.

	Don't give your puppy the chance to disobey, i.e. if you can't
  back up the command, don't give it.  If your dog isn't reliable on
  the come outside, only call him when you have him on a lead.  Work 
  up to using a long lead (25 ft) before trying any off lead commands.  
  Even if you're in a fenced yard, you can't let the dog get the idea 
  that ignoring you is an option.  Also, make sure that coming when 
  called is a joyous event -- lots and lots of praise when he shows up 
  (regardless of what he's been up to).  Never call a dog to you to
  punish him.

|> 4) Tantrums.  He seems to get into moods where he is purposely defiant.  For
|> instance, while on lead, he may start grabing the lead, trearing at it and
|> pulling at it.  

	Foster did this too.  For no apparent reason she would fight
  the leash, barking and grabbing at it.  My guess is that she was
  asserting herself because she didn't like being at heel.  I tried 
  alpha rolls without success.  Finally Foster's trainer suggested 
  that I lift her up by the choke chain until her front legs came 
  off the ground.  Using this technique, I could be completely 
  rational and in control until Foster calmed down.  She couldn't
  struggle much, bite me or bite at the leash in that position.
  When she stopped fighting, I let her down and told her softly to
  sit, with much praise when she complied.  After two or three 
  applications, Foster no longer fought the leash.


	Good luck with your puppy and keep trying new approaches
  until you find one that works for both of you.

	Kim Rachmeler
	kim@wpd.sgi.com