HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: fran@Cadence.COM (Fran Peterson)
Subject: Re: Keeping stuff we make (was Fabricholics Anonymous) vs. giving away/     
Organization: Cadence Design Systems, Inc.
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 20:36:43 GMT

In article <BuDsCH.KMD@world.std.com> nancy@world.std.com (Nancy C Reynolds) writes:
>
>If I sound bitter, you read this right.  I've decided that a lot of women
>are taught to do for other people and for themselves last, if at all.  I
>bought into this for a *long* time and finally decided there had to be
>room for me, too. 
>
>--Nancy Reynolds
>

No you don't sound bitter.  You sound very disappointed, and down hearted.
And you have a right to be.  

It's doubly disappointing to know "your gift of love" is not appreciated.
It's worse than the lady who went to a bridal shower for a relative and
one of the gifts the future bride received was the gift she had given the
year before to another ladies daughter for her bridal shower.  

The handmade gifts we give go the receiver with a little bit of our hearts
in them.  And it is very sad indeed the reciever doesn't think about that
when they show such little concern for our feelings and heart.  

On the other side of the coin.  I have a different problem.  I make things
to sell at Arts & Crafts and home shows and I have a very difficult time
letting go of some of the things people want to buy.  Especially when I
set a high price on them, hoping it will discourage them from buying and
they still buy.  

My husband says if I can't stand to part with them why don't I just make
them for myself.  Which I do.  But I only have so much closet space and can
only wear so many outfits and matching shoes.  Since I only make one of a
kind I'd have to have a house full of closet space and more places to go
than just work and boating.

Anyway, there are always two sides to every situation.  Yours just happens
to be a heart braker that we've all felt at one time or another.  But don't
let it discourage you.  Keep on stitch'n.

F [:)
From: gorman@acsu.buffalo.edu (Anne-Marie K. Gorman)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: Height of sewing table and sewing room design
Date: 6 Oct 92 15:24:26 GMT
Organization: UB

In article <1992Oct2.223803.15887@StarConn.com> sallyh@StarConn.com (Sally Holmes) writes:
>
>Palmer/Pletsch Trends Bulletin No. 1, `The Newest in Sewing Room
>Design', has some useful stuff about design, ideal heights and storage
>options, and other considerations.

>It says that the bed of the sewing machine should be about 30" off the
>ground, which means the table top should be 26" - 28" off the ground.

No, no, no!  The height of the work surface depends on the size of the 
person doing the work.  Start from the ground up (literally).  Your
seat should be at a height that allows your feet to rest on the floor
(or better yet, on a footrest, but that's probably not practical if
you're using a foot pedal on your machine).  The table should be at
a height that allows you to do your work with an elbow angle of 90 
degrees (for medium-fine work such as machine sewing).

General guidelines such as "30 inches off the ground" can be very
misleading.  Few people have average measurements, not only of 
overall height but of individuasl body parts--as the frequent postings
about fitting testify!

Anne-Marie





-- 
===============================================================================
Anne-Marie K. Gorman          Sophie and Teresa (9 months old) are standing and
Human factors/ergonomics      cruising!  Time flies twice as fast when you're
University at Buffalo         having twice as much fun.
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: anne@dolores.Stanford.EDU (Anne Paulson)
Subject: interfacing, thread for silk
Organization: Stanford University
Distribution: alt.sewing
Date: 27 Sep 92 23:04:35


Well, the Quilting Bee has moved, but I recently made the expensive 
discovery that the retail store for Thai Silks is in my very own home
town.  Now five yards of sand-washed silk is sitting in my sewing
room, waiting to become a pair of pants and a blouse, and two yards of
silk noil is cut out and basted into a dress bodice.  The silk noil is
not that expensive-- actually, at five bucks a yard it's dirt cheap--
but the sueded silk is an investment, and I don't want to make
mistakes.  So, what interfacing should I use?  What kind of thread?
The silk noil dress really needs to be lined-- what kind of lining
material should I use?

-- Anne

And another expensive discovery-- Nancy's Notions (mailorder) is
having a 25% off sale.  My Rowenta iron arrived yesterday.  What
bliss!  My project practically irons itself.  The iron produces clouds
of steam;  with the high end one (which I didn't buy) you can make
your own weather.
From: riggle@adobe.com (Kathleen Riggle)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: Environmental fabric use; suggestions and question
Date: 1 Oct 92 22:17:44 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated

In article <1afjgjINNmmj@lindy.Stanford.EDU> rabbit@lindy.Stanford.EDU (Aleta Hanna) writes:
>>hill@acsu.buffalo.edu (Robin Hill) writes:
>>
>>>Does anyone know of a mail-order source for organic cotton yardage,
>>>especially the stuff with the slight pastel tints bred into the cotton
>>>boll itself?  Esprit is using it for some clothing, so it must be
>>>available somewhere.
>>>                               
>
>The Richman Cotton Company is not a fabric catalogue, but she offers
>quite a range of "natural" fabrics in the clothes in her catalogues.
>She also defines what she means by natural, organic, et cet.  She is
>also quite chatty when you call, and might tell you where to find
>similar fabrics to that which she uses.  I think her company does all
>their own dying.
>
>529 Fifth St.
>Santa Rosa, CA 95401
>800 992-8924
>707 575-8924
>
>This information is off an old catalogue I still have in my office.

I have a more recent catalog (I guess!)  and in it she lists
the fabrics she uses and you can buy them from the catalog if you
wish.  I think that you can buy them dyed or un-dyed, but I'm not
sure about that.  

I guess enough people called and asked! :-)

-- 
riggle@adobe.com
From: kf1j+@andrew.cmu.edu (Karen L. Frisa)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: Weights Instead of Pins
Date: 29 Sep 92 00:35:18 GMT
Organization: Network Development, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA

I usually use paperback books as pattern weights.  (Probably got the
idea from someone in this newsgroup, too.)

Karen
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: anne@dolores.Stanford.EDU (Anne Paulson)
Subject: Re: neckline gaping open
Organization: Stanford University
	<1992Sep30.084558.9921@eua.ericsson.se>
	<1992Sep30.095219.29471@walter.cray.com>
	<16872A74C.GINA@RICEVM1.RICE.EDU>
Date: 30 Sep 92 15:11:25

 In article <16872A74C.GINA@RICEVM1.RICE.EDU> GINA@RICEVM1.RICE.EDU writes:

   I have a counter-question:  why muslin?  [for a sloper]

Because it's cheaper.

   I've been using gingham with a
   small check because it gives me an immediate visual cue if I'm making any
   alterations that would seriously change the way the pattern piece lies on
   the fabric (i.e., something that was on the grain is now more on the bias).
   I definitely agree that doing a bodice in a cheaper fabric to testyour
   alterations before you cut out the real thing is worth the extra effort.

If you're trying to make a basic sloper, gingham is great for the
reasons Gina mentions.  If, however, you just want to check that this
pattern fitsand is flattering, but you don't anticipate majorr
alterations, muslin is good enough.  And it's easy to draw on,
apparently, which is quite a boon.

-- Anne
From: hill@acsu.buffalo.edu (Robin Hill)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Environmental fabric use; suggestions and question
Date: 30 Sep 92 16:19:50 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: SUNY@Buffalo Computer Science

Use scraps for rags--an obvious procedure, but often forgotten in
favor of paper towels.  Just keep a heap around, use them to wipe up
spills or wash the car, and then either wash for re-use or throw out.

When you visit your local thrift store, following previously-posted
suggestions, don't forget to look for good cotton sheets and
pillowcases, especially plain white ones, currently out of fashion.
Uses are myriad--interfacing, quilt backs, rags, garment bags, curtains,
even fashion fabric, even... sheets and pillowcases.

Does anyone know of a mail-order source for organic cotton yardage,
especially the stuff with the slight pastel tints bred into the cotton
boll itself?  Esprit is using it for some clothing, so it must be
available somewhere.
                                          -- Robin Hill
From: jareed@rodan.acs.syr.edu (Judith Ann Reed)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: buttonholes in knits, widening hems
Date: 28 Sep 92 12:46:42 GMT
Organization: Syracuse University

Hi! Now that I got my sewing machine fixed (posted about it recently, it was
catching the top thread under the bobbin), I'm trying to sew on some knits,
something I've never done before. The outfit came out really well, except
for 2 things.

1. The buttonholes on the front came out very wavy. This is a firm knit, 
somewhere between tee-shirt and fleece, buttonholes on the front of a 
"big top" type shirt, with standard non-woven interfacing, two layers of 
fabric. What is the secret to getting good buttonholes on a knit?

2. Since pattern books didn't have a pattern for a "parachute top" - 
like a "big top" but very flared at the hem - I took a "big shirt" top
and widened it out by drawing a straight line (with respect to the line on
the pattern for lengthening) out at the hem. It came out sort of pointed 
at the side seams. How can you widen the bottom of a shirt and have it come out
evenly long all around?

Thanks very much for your advice. This group has been really inspiring me
to sew, which may be a mixed blessing, but it's been fun!

Judith Reed
From: sallyh@StarConn.com (Sally Holmes)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Quilting Bee Prices Reduced!
Date: 5 Oct 92 22:28:44 GMT
Distribution: ba
Organization: Starnet-Public Access UNIX--Los Altos, CA  415-949-3133

The Quilting Bee is going to reduce its fabric prices by 10 - 15% `to be
seen to be competitive'. It'll happen in 2 - 3 weeks, because they have
to alter all their codes. Notions and books will remain at the current
prices. Diana Leone, the owner, told me this: I don't know how accurate 
her estimate of 2 - 3 weeks is.

Just think, by waiting a few weeks, you'll be able to buy 10 - 15% more
fabric _FOR THE SAME AMOUNT OF MONEY_ :-).

Sally

P.S. I've tried to limit the distribution of this article to the Bay
area. It'll be interesting to see where it gets to...
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: liza@pangea.Stanford.EDU (Liza Miller)
Subject: Re: help!  turmeric stains on white cotton shirt
Organization: Stanford Univ. Earth Sciences
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 21:35:44 GMT

Wash the shirt with good old clorox bleach!

Good luck!

--lizalee

--
Liza Lee Miller         My dogs are labradorable!     liza@pangea.stanford.edu
Cibola Labradors            Field * Show * Fun                    415/326-5309
Cibola's Misty Mountain Hop--Hopper                   Mistypoint Kashmir--Kash
	            Campbellcroft Cibola Rosette -- Rosie
From: gwen@teal.csn.org (Gwen)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Sloper Programs
Date: 2 Oct 92 02:04:27 GMT
Organization: Ranks of the Unemployed



I remember a while back that someone mentioned there was a
program that cost about $80 that would make slopers.  The
person said all you needed to do was enter 10 measurements.

I'm getting married in June, and I need to make costumes for
some of the bridesmades.  This program seems like the
easiest way for me to do it.  I am in Colorado, two of the
people are in CA, and one is in TX.  I don't think fittings
will be high in number.  (I hope they pick dresses that
aren't that fitted.)

Anyhow, does anyone remember the name, company, and phone
number of that program?  Are there better programs out
their?  Are there any cheaper ones out there that work?

--gwen
From: delena@roth-music.com (Delena E. Roth)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: Folding patterns - GREAT TIP, and multiple-component patterns
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 92 17:13:54 EST
Organization: DAVID A. ROTH MUSIC
Reply-To: delena@roth-music.com (Delena E. Roth)
Distribution: world
X-Mailer: uAccess - Macintosh Release: 1.5v4


In article <ANNE.92Sep19144149@dolores.Stanford.EDU> (alt.sewing,rec.crafts.textiles), anne@dolores.Stanford.EDU (Anne Paulson) writes:
> In article <TIGGER.92Sep19105749@satyr.Sylvan.COM> tigger@satyr.Sylvan.COM (Grace Sylvan) writes:
>    I would just take a large envelope, 9x12? and put the pattern into it,
>    and just label the outside. Easier than trying to refold and stuff the
>    pieces all back into the tiny envelope.
> 
> Big ziplock bags (gallon size) work wonderfully too.

It just occurred to me what would be the perfect size bags for patterns
-- plastic bags that comic book collectors use to protect their comic
books.  They are available at comic book stores, and as I recall they
were pretty inexpensive.  I don't think they have a closure like a
zip-lock, but since they're plastic, you could fold over the top and
use a piece of tape.

Delena
  
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: lise@kepler.uucp (80734-romanov)
Subject: Re: Halloween Costume Suggestions
Reply-To: er@oscar.bellcore.com (80734-romanov,elizabeth)
Organization: Bellcore, Piscataway, NJ
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 92 14:21:13 GMT

Linda,

One of the funniest easy costumes I've seen lately on a guy, was an
angel outfit.  The man borrowed one of his mother's white nightgowns,
and added a tinsel, halo, wings and a black eye in makeup.  All you'd
have to do is the wings,a nd those are easy with either cardboard or
nylon net stretched over florist wire.

Happy Halloween!
Lise

Newsgroups: alt.sewing,rec.crafts.textiles
From: vusl@athena.cas.vanderbilt.edu (VU Science Library)
Subject: button tubes
Organization: Vanderbilt University 
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 01:23:49 GMT

Does anyone know where I can buy those long plastic tubes fabric stores
use to hold their buttons?  When I ask my local store if I can buy from
them, they say they don't stock them to sell, just to use.  Any ideas?

Carlin
--
	Carlin Sappenfield - vusl@athena.cas.vanderbilt.edu
From: delena@roth-music.com (Delena E. Roth)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: Goodwill stores as a source - was Fabriholics Anon
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 92 17:54:16 EST
Organization: DAVID A. ROTH MUSIC
Reply-To: delena@roth-music.com (Delena E. Roth)
Distribution: world
X-Mailer: uAccess - Macintosh Release: 1.5v4


In article <1992Sep23.164251.5871@Cadence.COM> (alt.sewing), fran@Cadence.COM (Fran Peterson) writes:

> Yes Carol I have done that also.  There are a lot of tricks to shopping
> at Goodwill and other type thrift stores.  
> 
> One of the most recent finds I've made is for purse chains.  I have been
> making a lot of Ghee's purses lately to match the shoes I cover and the
> cost of the chains that go with them sell for around $4.95 (40") or around
> $.59 a ft. if you buy it off a spool.  However, I've been lucky to find
> purses at any of my favorite thrift stores with the chains in perfect
> condition and the rest of the purse is a throw-away for $1.20 to $1.99.
> The other thing I do is if the purse has a decent zipper pocket inside I
> cut it out and, color matching of course, I sew it into the new purse.
> Or I save it for another purse that it will match.  If you buy the zipper
> you pay at least $1.45.  This way I get a chain and the zipper pocket
> for less than the zipper alone.

All right -- where did you find chain on a spool?

I have looked in a couple of thrift stores to "cannibalize" off old
purses, but I didn't find anything useful.  I'll keep looking, though.

Delena
  
> 
> Sometimes I've been fortunate enough to find an old purse that has the
> kind of frame I need or like.  So I take the old purse off the frame
> and just reuse the frame for my new purse.  If I pay less than $2 for
> the old purse I've saved at least $3 on the frame, $4.95 on the chain
> and $1.45 on the pocket zipper.  Which means I get a purse for, let's
> say $2.00 that would have cost at least $10.00 for new materials.  So,
> to my way of thinking, I have the $8.00 I saved to spend somewhere else!
> My husband is still try to figure out my way of thinking!

Good idea on zippers, too.
From: sallyh@StarConn.com (Sally Holmes)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: sleeves
Date: 28 Sep 92 05:41:49 GMT
Organization: Starnet-Public Access UNIX--Los Altos, CA  415-949-3133

Marina.Salume@Corp.Sun.COM (Marina Salume) writes:

>>" But, what do I do with the armhole
>>seam? How can I finish it professionaly (without a serger)?

>Many shirt patterns will suggest sewing the sleeve to the garment
>BEFORE you sew the side seams. ...
>Then sew the side seams last, from the hem to the cuff of the sleeve,
>in one quick seam, and finish as you wish.

Something I've found to be a great time-saver is to press the sleeve hem
up before sewing the side and sleeve seam. When the seam is sewn, you
can see if the hem you've pressed matches on both sides of the seam
(mine rarely do: I must be a bit slipshod with cutting out or maybe the
fabric walks) and it's easy to re-press if necessary before you sew the
hem.

This is much easier than trying to press a hem on a tube, even with a
sleeve board.

Sally
Xref: sparky alt.sewing:2894 rec.crafts.textiles:1747
From: rrah@troi.cc.rochester.edu (Runa Rahman)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing,rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Re: Environmentally-conscious sewing
Date: 29 Sep 92 02:36:57 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Rochester (Rochester, NY)

In article <1992Sep28.235925.112@u.washington.edu> tabbott@u.washington.edu writes:
>Natural fibers are not as safe or environmentally conscious as we would be
>made to believe.  They each have their problems!!  And we each have a
>responsibility to be aware of the impact our decisions in our crafts and
>beyond are having on the earth, the health of the people who provided the
>materials, and our health and the health of our loved ones.  There is not
>a simple solution.

Of course, if it were simple, the problem would have been solved long ago!
And I wouldn't be so baffled, and want to start a discussion on the topic!

I am not criticizing anyone - I am looking for explanations, clarifications,
ideas, etc. so I can contribute in a small way to saving the earth.  If we
each do a little, think of all the good we would do :)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing,rec.crafts.textiles
From: dorje@casbah.acns.nwu.edu (Michelle Berkowitz)
Subject: help -- another scared sewing maching shopper
Keywords: machines, service merchandise, cheap!
Organization: Northwestern University, Evanston, Illinois, USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 05:16:35 GMT


Maybe it's the cool fall weather, but it seems like a lot of us are coming
out of hiding to buy machines lately!  Yes, it's my turn, and yes, I'm
absolutely petrified.  My situation is this:  (1)  I generally have very
little money to spend on a machine;  (2)  I have little experience with 
machine sewing...forward and backward is about the extent of my repertoire,
but my ever-worsening craft addiction has turned my eye toward making my
own clothes, etc, hopefully successfully and hopefully with prodigous 
volume!;  (3)  I spotted two White free-arm machines in a recent Service
Merchandise catalog, and my jaw dropped at the price -- $150 and $170!!!

While these are obviously not fancy models...the cheaper model features
11 built-in stiches including buttonholer, blind hem, stetch, and 
overlock stitches.  The $170 model features 16 built-in stitches including
buttonholer, blind hem, and stretch.

My questions:

1)  Is this too good to be true?  I've heard wonderful things about White
sergers -- does the same go for their standard machines?  Would any White
owners out there care to share their experiences and comments (good and
bad) with me?
2)  Pardon my naivety, but what is an "overlock" stitch on a standard
machine?  Is this like imitation serging ten times slower and without the
neat trimmed edge?
3)  If this machine isn't a good solution for me, please point me in the
right direction -- would I be better off with a refurbished machine?  If
so, what am I looking for?  Any other low-end models to recommend?  I'd
really like to keep my spending under $300.

Any responses, words of advice, condolences, or "just do it" votes of 
confidence will be appreciated!

Peace,

Shelby
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: riggle@adobe.com (Kathleen Riggle)
Subject: Re: Interfacing for knits
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 16:34:14 GMT

In article <BvpHvu.E4p@acsu.buffalo.edu> gorman@acsu.buffalo.edu (Anne-Marie K. Gorman) writes:
>
>Are you supposed to use the regular non-woven interfacing when
>sewing knits?  It doesn't stretch like the fabric does.  I compro-
>mised by not sewing the interfacing to the fabric facing along
>all the edges, so there's still a little give, but I'm wondering
>whether I should have used a different kind of interfacing.


When I use interfacing for knits, I use something called EasyKnit.
It's tricot, I believe, and it's stretchy like knits.  The one that
I've used is fusible.

EasyKnit is the name of a particular interfacing; if you ask for it at
the store, they will probably know what you are talking about.

Kathie
-- 
riggle@adobe.com
Xref: sparky alt.sewing:2928 rec.crafts.textiles:1769
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: alt.sewing,rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Re: Enviromentally-conscious sewing
Date: 30 Sep 92 12:55:43 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

In article <1992Sep30.102126.55728@qut.edu.au>, whitaker@qut.edu.au writes:
> Kay: with respect to growing cotton and environmental stuff: isn't it good for 
> the ozone to have cotton growing? 

Uh, no.  Cotton has nothing to do with ozone.  Perhaps you're thinking of
carbon dioxide uptake-- and if you wanted to be truly efficient about it,
you'd plant the cotton acreage to trees, then harvest the young trees and
store (not burn) the wood.  That would tie up atmospheric CO2 as carbohydrate.

Kay Klier  Biology Dept  UNI
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: dawn@pangea.Stanford.EDU (Dawn Burgess)
Subject: Re: neckline gaping open
Organization: Stanford Univ. Earth Sciences
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 21:48:09 GMT

In article <1992Oct1.205057.23456@u.washington.edu> arien@milton.u.washington.edu (in*con*sistent kat) writes:
>A hint that might be helpful, not a solution to the main problem:
>
>One thing that the friend of my family who sewed my sweetheart-neckline
>wedding dress did, was to self-cover a light weight and attach a button-weight
>thread.  The string end was then secured to the lining of the dress a little
>below the point of the neckline; the weight was tucked into my brassiere.

Another hint, which I saw in Power Sewing, I believe, was to sew a 
piece of boning to the front inside like so:



	-----\           /-----
	      \         /   
	       \       /
		-     -
		  \ /
		   x  <----stitching (through boning and fabric)
		   ||
		   || <----boning (free except at top)
		   ||


The idea is that you slide the boning down under the center front
of your bra and it holds the nekline against you (without a weight to 
bonk against your chest!).  I think this would only work well with
us small-busted types, but I guess we are the ones who have this
problem most often anyway.

I haven't tried this; it may be uncomfortable.

Dawn.


Newsgroups: alt.sewing