HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: gak@wrs.com (Richard Stueven)
Subject: Re: One mans rose...
Reply-To: gak@wrs.com
Organization: Wind River Systems, Inc.
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 23:50:57 GMT

In article 12112@intellistor.com, pyle@intellistor.com (Norm Pyle) writes:
>In article <BuA53I.ABr@wrs.com> gak@wrs.com writes:
>>
>>I say the heck with them.  He's not breaking any laws, and if they
>>don't like it, they can put a fan in their window to blow the smell
>>away.
>
>I agree.  Just do it.  [...] How bad could it be?  This is, of course,
>easy for me to say.

My next-door neighbor got mad because I was making too much noise
washing bottles* one afternoon.  (He sleeps days and works nights.)  He
came over and asked what the hell I was doing, so I showed him.  He
looked very confused, and did not at all understand the concept of
making your own beer in your kitchen.  He shook his head and left, but
he didn't have me arrested, and I haven't heard from him since.

He works for the California State Police.

---
Richard Stueven        gak@wrs.com         attmail!gakhaus!gak        107/H/3&4

                                     Praise not a beer until it has been drunk.
                                                          - old Viking proverb

* I use one of those jet-things that screws onto your faucet, and it
makes a hell of a bang when the valve closes.  I've since learned that
I can simply turn the water off rather than let the valve slam shut.
Hey, I'm a scientist, not an engineer!

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Subject: Re: First all-grain brew a disaster (comments and questions)
Organization: ddsw1.MCS.COM Contributor, Chicago, IL
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL3
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 01:52:01 GMT

cav@bnr.ca (Rick Cavasin) writes:
: In article <BuDH9y.364@ddsw1.mcs.com>, arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) writes:
: |>  Sounds like a fun time.  Once again I preach about the importance of 
: |>  maintaining water temp.  Not sure what you did but I suspect by the time you 
: |>  gave up the stuff was cool enough for Baby Bear to eat.
: |>  Probably the most serious drawback of the plastic bucket system is that you 
: |>  only get one chance and this is why I promote kettle mashing as a much more 
: |>  forgiving approach.
: Just to put an oar in the water as it were, and to point out that there are
: other alternatives (with their own pro's and con's), I'll give my version of
: the 'plastic bucket' system:
:       3) Perform upward temperature adjustments by decoction (drain some
:          of the mashwater, bring it to a boil, pour back into the
:          mash, and stir)
 
I like step (3).  I get the feeling that people just dump in the water and
hope for the best.  I suppose I should read Papazian's book just to know
;what it is the world has been nurtured on.
From: ludeman@astroatc.uucp (Weekend Pilot)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: I brew therefore I am (again)
Date: 15 Sep 92 19:28:18 GMT
Organization: Astronautics Technology Cntr, Madison, WI

After a three years of sloth and commercial brew I am finally 
getting set to re-enter the homebrew foray.  This time I intend
to set things up such that I can make the jump to all grain
brews after a couple of "Campbell's Soup" batches to get in tune
with yeast again.

Couple o' questions for the collective wisdom o' the .net....

1.  I've found stainless steel kettles locally -- about $110 for
a 25.5 quart job, $150 for a 40 quart monster, both including lids.
Nicely made, no aluminized bottoms or anything fancy like that.
My inclination after re-reading the all grain section in Charlie P.'s
book is that 25.5 ain't big enough.  Anyone got a better suggestion
than the aforementioned 40?

2.  I need to get re-current on mid-western mail order sources.
My last experience (satisfactory) was with "Green Acres" or some such
in Minneapolis, that was four years ago.  The local homebrew shop is
nice, helpful and exorbitantly pricey, please help!

3.  Being the engineering sort I'm inclined to get creative and build
my own wort chiller.  Everyone seems to be using copper tubing for 
this... this leads me to wonder "copper oxidizes very readily, copper
oxides are readily soluble in weak acids, wort is weakly acidic and
hot besides, copper compounds are pretty hard on human beings (see
Sax, _Dangerous Properties of Industrial Materials_) when ingested 
orally, isn't this kind of a DUMB idea?" Please enlighten.

Evan Ludeman
try: uunet!agrimad!nicmad!astroatc!ludeman
or uwvax!astroatc!ludeman (uwvax seems to be screwing up...)
-- 
Evan Ludeman                    "Verbosity leads to unclear,
rutgers!cs.wisc.edu!               inarticulate things."             
astroatc!ludeman                    -- Mr. PotatoE Head
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing,alt.beer
From: gak@wrs.com (Richard Stueven)
Subject: Beer Story (Re: More Campaign Promises)
Reply-To: gak@wrs.com
Organization: Wind River Systems, Inc.
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 16:12:58 GMT

In article 24951@oasys.dt.navy.mil, smennitt@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Stuart Mennitt) writes:
>    Has anyone ordered a regular Miller in a bar
>and been brought a Lite?  (Spare me the "Of course I'd never order a
>Miller" stuff).

Worse!  My roommate and I were at a bar in Waikiki, and the best beer
they had was Anchor Steam.  (Which isn't bad for a best beer,
especially in Hawaii.)  So we ordered a couple, and the waitress
brought us a couple of insipid transparent yellow "beers".  We gave
them a funny look, and we gave the waitress a funny look, and we told
her "this is not Anchor Steam".  She said, "of course it is...taste
it".  We humored her, we tasted it, we told her "this is not Anchor
Steam".  So she took them back to the bartender.

Turns out she mixed up our order with another table's order of two
Miller Lites.  Those folks did enjoy the Anchor Steam, by the way, and
they started drinking it instead!

Turns out we didn't have to pay for our Anchor Steams, because Bob
Brewer, Anchor's "Brewery Representative and Draft Specialist" (that's
what it says on his card) was sitting next to us and witnessed the
whole exchange!

have fun
gak

---
Richard Stueven        gak@wrs.com         attmail!gakhaus!gak        107/H/3&4
          To sight it must ring clear as a bell, it must snap
          in the ear, feel pleasantly sticky between the fingers,
          smell fresh and tempting and taste heavenly.

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: esharp@sage.cc.purdue.edu (Edwin Sharp)
Subject: Milk jugs
Organization: Purdue University Computing Center
Distribution: all
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1992 15:28:21 GMT

Has anyone ever tried using plastic milk jugs as secondaries?  It seems to me that after primary it would not be too harmful to split the batch up.  What I'm thinking of doing is keeping everything normal until putting the batch in milk jugs, filling each up about 5/6 full, and then using a device I made for my lock   
to connect all 6 jugs to the lock.  I have modified each cap (cut a hole and inserted a plastic food grade tubing connector which is connected to a f.g. tube that connects to the other tubes below the lock) and made a 6-way lock connector.  I am still timid about perhaps wasting a good batch, so any encourgement or experiencs either way would be great!
Thanks
Edwin
:w

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: gorski@pslu1.psl.wisc.edu (Tom Gorski)
Subject: German Altbier
Summary: To Lager, or Not to Lager
Organization: Physical Sciences Lab, University of Wisconsin
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 92 12:58:43 GMT

To kick off the '92-93 brewing season, I decided to brew up a facimile
of a German Altbier.  Normally I brew Lagers, but the temperature of the
basement proper is more suited to ale right now, and the Lagering refrigerator
is full of carrots (another story). In fact, this is only my second batch of
ale ever, with the other being an ersatz Scottish Ale in kit form which I
brewed as my very first batch.

Here's my question to any Altbier brewers out there, or folks knowledgable
regarding authentic German practices:  do I lager this stuff or not?

Customarily, I treat my Lagers to a secondary ferment of 2-4 weeks (depending
on gravity), followed by a Lagering period of about 4-6 weeks, prior to
bottling.

I can see how this treatment certainly wouldn't *hurt* an Altbier, but
I would like to know what established practices are used for this type of
beer.

--TG 
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: dcb@rosedale.uucp (Dave Breneman)
Subject: Re: Sassafras for Root Beer
Organization: The Spud Goodman Show
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 04:26:01 GMT

In article <1992Sep1.141727.17113@ddsw1.mcs.com> arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) writes:

> 
> There are thousands of carcinogens that the FDA just winks at because of 
> political pressure.  When one makes their black list, it is not to be 
> triffled with.
> 

Like Sodium Cyclamate?


:-)


-- 
David Breneman            #################          Historical revisionism:
The Spud Goodman Show      ####### #######           Elvis Presley was a joke
dcb@rosedale.uucp           #####   #####            A washed-up has-been.
 ..uunet!camco!rosedale!dcb      (_)  - - - Ciao.    Then he died... The King!
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: pmfisher@milton.u.washington.edu (Patrick Fisher)
Subject: First all-grain brew a disaster (comments and questions)
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1992 21:19:19 GMT

	This weekend I brewed my first all-grain batch of brew using
liquid yeast.  Everything went wrong.  Here is a synopsis:
	Mashing went good.  
	The lauter-tun clogged.  I made a tun using 2 5-gallon buckets.
I guess that the holes were not big enough in the false bottom or
I just didn't have the patience to wait for the thing to drain.  So
I emptied the tun and attacked it with a screwdriver.  Filled again,
clogged again.  Drained it again, attacked it with the screwdriver,
filled, clogged again.  So I strained the grains with a collander
and in the process losing good wort.
	Boiling went good (how couldn't it!)  
	Counter-chiller was set up, but the hops (8 oz.) clogged the
exit on the brewpot (although I had a strainer over the exit).  After
trying to get it to go, I gave up and gave the brewpot a bath of cold
water and ice.  
	While boiling, I pulled the yeast out of the fridge.  THEN
I FINALLY READ THE INSTRUCTIONS which read "break yeast pouch 1 To
4 days before pitching.  I was a bit surprised.  So I broke it
and poured it into a cup of cooled wort.  Not thing happened so I
pitched it with the wort into the carboy.
	A day later nothing was happening.  Worried that the yeast
was not enough (no time to propogate) I pitched rehydraded Ale
yeast (Whitbread) and added boiled and cooled malt extract (to make
up for the lost wort in the chiller disaster.

	Two days later: it looks like a snowstorm in the carboy:
mass activity.  Hopefully, all of the unsanitary procedures I 
did in the process did not invite too much bateria and the brew will
turn out okay.
	Question: what happens to the brew flavor when two different
yeasts are pitched (Whitbread Ale and Belgian Liquid Ale Yeast).
	Will the second yeast (well started) help activate the first
pitched yeast?
	Can the yeast overcome and kill any bacteria present before
pitching?  OR at least deactivate the bacteria?
	The yeast became active in the bottom part of the carboy 
before the top part (or the whole).  I thought that ale yeast was
a top-down fermenting yeast.  Anyone know why this happened?
	I've learned my lesson about the hops: use pellets or
grain bags to prevent/avoid clogging.

	Pat-

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: gak@wrs.com (Richard Stueven)
Subject: Re: "Dry" Beer?
Reply-To: gak@wrs.com
Organization: Wind River Systems, Inc.
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 18:50:51 GMT

In article 23584@nmsu.edu, trodgers@nmsu.edu (Thomas Rodgers) writes:
>> ...The answer that I got was that the dry in beer is the same as the
>> dry in wine...
>
>Having never brewed wine before, I don't know all of the facts here,
>but it is my understanding that the "dry" flavor comes in part from
>the addition of Acid-Blend to the mix (I remember reading this
>somewhere in Papazians CJOHB 2ed, but I don't have it handy).

Nope...the first answer is the correct one.  "Dry" is the opposite of
"sweet"; that is, "dry" means higher in alcohol content and lower in
residual sugars.

---
I don't know what system you use,  you might try vodka in Evian bottles.   Some
people like  cream in  their morning coffee,  I spike  mine with  a little  JD.
Mickey's Big Mouths are an excellent choice, you can use the empty bottles as a
desktop vase.                               -Hoodlum Empire "Get Drunk At Work"
Richard Stueven        gak@wrs.com         attmail!gakhaus!gak        107/H/3&4
From: hersh@expo.lcs.mit.edu (Jay Hersh)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Great idea but....
Keywords: Pathetic snivelling
Date: 14 Sep 92 20:13:06 GMT
Organization: X Consortium, MIT Laboratory for Computer Science

arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) writes:

>>In article <hersh.715967797@xenon.lcs.mit.edu> hersh@expo.lcs.mit.edu (Jay Hersh) writes:
>>>
>>>
>>>It has nothing to do with showing anyone anything Jack, My mill is not
>>>a converted past maker, it is and always was deisgned for crushing grain,
>>>I just modified it to make it more efficient for crushing barley for 
>>>brewing vs. crushing a range of grains for making Muesli. And the 
>>>lowdown is $$ this mill was $40 cheaper than your mill.

>>I seemed to have missed this but as you insist on rubbing my nose in the
>high price of a product designed for the homebrewer I may as well get a
>ride for my money.

>It takes less than 30 seconds to crush a pound of malt in the MM.  Would
>you like to tell us how long it takes you with yours and why the extra
>$40 just may be considered a bargain by some people?

>js



It takes about 3-4 minutes to do a pound in my mill. This is hand cranked, 
I don't know the speed when run via a drill since I haven't timed it, 
though I did try it to see if it was feasible. Since I brew 3 galon batches
I typically use 6-10 pounds so speed isn't a big deal.

The $40 I saved paid for my Gott cooler, and the fittings and grain bag
needed to convert it to mash/lauter tun, and still left enough over for
a package of Wyeast. That's $$ in my pocket not someone elses...


--
Hopfen und Malz, Gott erhalts
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: peterm@dtc.hp.com (Sweet Pete)
Subject: Re: Questions for anyone...  Anyone?
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 17:55:46 GMT
Organization: Where No Man Has Gone Before

In article <1992Sep15.094556.1@kean.ucs.mun.ca> sstrong@kean.ucs.mun.ca writes:
>
>4) I have been using hopped malt extract and the equivalent amt. of
>corn sugar for my brews (following the receipe in the can).  Is it
>better to use some unhopped extract in place of the sugar, say
>half-half?  What will this produce (heaver beer)?
>

My first attempt at this convinced me to never use sugar again.  I used a
Coopers Bitter kit and added 3 lbs of light malt extract (which I boiled
with a little water before adding).  The result was great!  The additional
malt really needed a little more hopping, which will be my next effort.

My most recent trial consisted of using two cans of Munton & Fisons
Australian Lager hopped kits.  This is just getting ready to drink now and
is also super.

Forget the sugar.  One thing I'm going to try is to use only one can with no
sugar.  If I calculate right this should produce a low alcohol beer of about
2.5%.  I'd rather have this with the same or better taste than of the the
same kit with added sugar to pump up the alcohol.

	Peter
-- 
Peter C. Maxwell,                      ARPA:   peterm@dtc.hp.com
Hewlett-Packard Company,
5301 Stevens Creek Blvd, MS 53U/36,    UUCP:   ..!hplabs!hpdtlpm!peterm
Santa Clara, CA 95052-8059             (408) 553 2512
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: gak@wrs.com (Richard Stueven)
Subject: Re: "Dry" Beer?
Reply-To: gak@wrs.com
Organization: Wind River Systems, Inc.
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 17:27:12 GMT

"Japanese Dry Beer - This is a more acceptable beer [than American Malt
Liquor], a well-balanced, although "engineered" beer type.  Closely
related to malt liquors (above), dry beer was introduced by the Asahi
Brewing Company of Tokyo, Japan, in February 1987.  Asahi Super Dry
became so popular that year that it was quickly copied by other
Japanese brewers.  Recently, during the latter half of 1988, it was
introduced into the U.S. market.  "Dry" means not so sweet, and dry
beer is basically a lower alcohol-content malt liquor, where the beer
is force fermented to reduce the final gravity, by using special
genetic engineering techniques to produce a yeast strain with a
built-in dextrin hydroxilizing enzyme to change the normally
unfermentable dextrins into fermentable sugars.  The alcohol content of
the final product is usually kept at, or just above that of regular
beer (4-5%).  The original gravity is adjusted, accordingly, to
something around 10.5/1042.  A bitterness level of 15-23 seems likely,
since the lower level of sweetness would enhance existing hop
elements.  Color is within the normal pale lager range.  The beer
gravity is necessarily low in the 0.8-1.4/1003-1005 range, depending on
OG."

	- Fred Eckhardt, "The Essentials of Beer Style"
	(Boy, am I glad I brought _this_ to work today!)
---
I don't know what system you use,  you might try vodka in Evian bottles.   Some
people like  cream in  their morning coffee,  I spike  mine with  a little  JD.
Mickey's Big Mouths are an excellent choice, you can use the empty bottles as a
desktop vase.                               -Hoodlum Empire "Get Drunk At Work"
Richard Stueven        gak@wrs.com         attmail!gakhaus!gak        107/H/3&4
From: devine@olympus.CS.Berkeley.EDU (bob devine)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: SG on double malting
Date: 8 Sep 1992 19:53:30 GMT
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
NNTP-Posting-Host: olympus.cs.berkeley.edu
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL3

arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) writes:
:  Computer access is as available to beginners as it is to 
:  experts and it should be recognized that comments and 
:  questions will range from naive to esoteric.
:  
:  It should also be recognized that the poplulation 
:  distribution on these networks is more or less Gaussian in 
:  personalities also.... from sniveling, reclusive, introverts 
:  to pompous, paranoid, dogmatists.
:  
:  I of course, as the World's Greatest Brewer, simply muse on 
:  all this from my Olympian peak.

Greetings sports fans!  At ring side, this is How-wort Cossell.
Tonight's match comes from a challenge to all net.readers from
the one, the only, Jack "Illinois Badboy" Schmidling! etc etc...

PLEASE!  Don't make this forum be a fighting match between
homebrewers.  Go to alt.flame if you are spoiling for a fight.

Bob Devine
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: wiley@crooks.b11.ingr.com (Dave Wiley)
Subject: Re: A question about sparging
Reply-To: wiley@wiley.b11.ingr.com
Organization: Intergraph Corp. Huntsville, AL
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 18:24:31 GMT

pmfisher@milton.u.washington.edu (Patrick Fisher) writes:

>	My question is: Charlie P. talks about sparge water
>used in sparging.  Is the sparge water that water that was 
>brewing with the grains, or is it another pot of 170 degreee
>water?

The latter is more correct.  Sparge water is a separate supply of water
heated to 170F.

To sparge with the Zapap method:

1) Fill the space between the buckets and a little bit more with sparge
water.

2) Dump in the mash grains and liquid all in one big kasploosh.  The
purpose of sparging is to filter the grains from the liquid; there is no
reason to strain the mash grains before beginning the sparge.

3) Add enough sparge water so there is an inch or so of liquid above
the grainbed.

4) Open the valve to a slow trickle.  Collect runoff at the bottom and
add it back to the top (recirculate) until the runoff is clear enough
to please you.  I usually run about 3 gallons.

5) Collect runoff at the bottom and poor into your brewing kettle.
Make sure there is always an inch or more of liquid on top of the
grainbed by adding sparge water as necessary.  Try to disturb the
grainbed as little as possible.

>Also, how much water is used in sparging?  

I always heat five gallons of sparge water and collect runoff until
I have 6 gallons of wort.  This usually means there is sparge water
left over, but better too much than too little.

--
david wiley                "A cult is a religion with no political power."
Intergraph Corporation     
(205) 730-6390                                                 - Tom Wolfe
wiley@wiley.b11.ingr.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: binkley@boulder.Colorado.EDU (Jon Binkley)
Subject: Re: aluminum brew kettle
Keywords: aluminum
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date:  8 Sep 92 17:26:49 GMT

blyler@tecsun1.etl.army.mil (Todd Blyler) writes:

>What might be the effect of using an Aluminum stock pot for mashing and brewing
>as opposed to stainless ? They are often much cheaper....

Wort is fairly acidic, pH 5 - 5.5, and tends to corrode aluminium.
Depending on which experts you decide to believe, this will cause
one or more of the following:

1) Nothing
2) Make your brewpot look bad
3) Make your beer taste bad
4) Give you Alzheimer's disease and kill you

I only have proof of #2.  Being a closet anal-retentive I hate
an ugly brewpot, so I use SS.

Jon Binkley


Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jad@nsa.hp.com (John Dilley)
Subject: Re: stout
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 18:50:06 GMT
Organization: Networked Systems Architecture

In article <1992Sep15.164926.3571@ucsvc.ucs.unimelb.edu.au> u8551002@ucsvc.ucs.unimelb.edu.au writes:

> Hi,
> Has anyone out there used a concentrated stout wort called MtMellick -
> comments please.

	Yes, I've made a stout using the MountMellick Stout Kit and it
came out WONDERFUL!  It was like candy -- sigh, it's all gone now.  I
got the following recipe from a friend of mine in Washington, DC
(thanks, Stig!!! :-).  I modified it slightly when I made it, but don't
have my brew log with me here at work.  Basically if you follow this
recipe or something close to it you should have a wonderful brew.

	The stout came out a little too flat, so I would use more
priming sugar next time (3/4 cup should work out better).  I know a
little flat is more true-to-style, but I prefer a few more bubbles on
my brew.


1 can Mountmellick Stout Kit (they're malters to Guinness, it should
  cost around ($10-11)
 
3 pounds dry malt extract (I've used light and amber EDME)
 
1.5 ounce Fuggles leaf hop plugs (1/2 @ 15 minutes, 1/2 @ 55 mins)
 
.5 ounce roasted barley (for more graininess.  Not really needed)
 
WYeast Irish Ale (yeast used by the big "G")
 
Make 5.5 gallons, boil for 1 hour, run through wort chiller, pitch!
 
Fermented in primary for 3-4 days (until past high krausen)

Racked to secondary, left for about 2 weeks until no signs of bubbles

Primed with 1/2 c dextrose and bottled



	Definitely give this stout a try!  The kit is hopped, but you'll
want to add more malt extract (to get the volume up), so be sure to add
more hops.  Throw away the yeast packet that comes with the kit and use
WYeast Irish for best results.  I made a starter from the liquid yeast a
day and a half before brewing (the morning before the evening I brewed).
Enjoy ...

			 --       jad       --
		      John Dilley <jad@nsa.hp.com>

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing