HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: john@makesys.com (John Turman)
Subject: Re: More on 3-phase power
Organization: Make Systems, Inc.
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 23:11:21 GMT

In article <5650083@hplsla.hp.com> tomb@hplsla.hp.com (Tom Bruhns) writes:
>stevenj@microsoft.com (Steven Johnson) writes:
>
>>Can anyone tell me for usre if there are 
>>wicked "voltage spikes" that travel back down the line when operating
>>(or turning off) a 3-phase converter?  The rumor is that these voltage
>>spikes occur when turning off the converter, and can travel back on the
>>circuit and do damage to other household appliances in your house, like
>>the TV, VCR, stereo, etc.
>
>If you turn off the converter when the current is crossing zero, then
>there should not be a significant transient introduced into the supply
>side.  A proper SCR or TRIAC controller would do that automatically.
>It _may_ be important to have a place for the stored energy of the
>converter to go (e.g., the inertia of the rotor as well as energy
>stored in inductances and/or capacitances), but I don't really know
>enough about them to say for sure...in any event, that's on the
>converter side of the "switch", not on the supply side.
>>
>>Second question:  IS there a device (and what is it called) that can
>>convert single to three phase power, drive the target 3-phase motor
>>with variable speed, and filter out any of the rumored voltage spikes?
>>If so, where do you get such a beast, and how much are they?
>
>Yes.  Look for a power inverter.  Dunno if they are still in business,
>but Invertron would be a company to look for.  However, you won't like
>the price; it's basically a big power amplifier driven by a (three-
>phase in this case) sine wave generator.  You can get them in versions
>that handle a range of frequencies as well as a range of amplitudes.
>For the 5 hp range, expect a few thousand $ (and be happy if it's less),
>for variable freq and voltage.  There's a thread over in misc.
>consumers.house that's related to this, having to do with power
>generation and selling power back to the utility.  games@milton.uw.edu,
>or something like that, for the originating author.
>

You could always go with a motor/generator set. This would comprise of a
motor running off of single phase turning a generator providing a 3 phase
output. Of course there would be a power loss inherent with this and if
you don't mind the losses involved would definitely be one way to solve
your problem. We used these "MG" sets in the Coast Guard to convert power
for our 400 cycle Nav/Comm gear. You might be able to pick up some surplus
military MG sets rather cheaply. Don't ask me where though. Hope this helps.

John
-- 
The opinions expressed here are sole property of the author and are not
the opinions of Make Systems or any other entity. What a shame.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
John "Dolphinatic" Turman
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: dak1@cbnewsi.cb.att.com (darren.a.kall)
Subject: Checking wood
Organization: AT&T
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 23:14:43 GMT

I have a really nice piece of beech (from a neighbor's tree that
came down) that I am making into a bench. The top board that I cut
has some checks in it. I don't mind them since
they are small cracks and don't threaten to split
the board. But I do have some questions:

1. What can I use to fill the check cracks before 
I finish the bench? I plan on polyurethaning the
bench.

2. What can I do to ensure that they don't crack
any more?

3. What can I do to new wood so that it won't crack
and check?

thanks, darren
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: Trouble Ripping Hardwoods
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 1992 03:26:44 GMT

24224-guthrie writes
> I've found that the wood is usually expanding a little after it leaves the
> cutting teeth. 

I don't see how wood would suddenly expand. Warp, twist, bend, etc., but 
expand? Is it gaining significant moisture by being cut?


> This gives you the same
> effect as the "few thousandths of an inch" fence difference you mention,
> Bennett.

Well, there's not much you can do about wood that warps as it's being cut. 
Having a splitter behind the blade helps enormously to keep the kerf from 
closing down on the rear teeth. 


> Easy way to tell. Extend the blade several inches and make a cut partway down
> a board. Then raise the board rapidly off the blade and look at the cut. If
> the area behind the blade is burnt, but the area where the center and front
> of the blade was is clean, the back teeth are burning the wood. If not,
> Bennett's right.

The front teeth are unlikely to burn the wood unless the wood isn't moving.
It's rubbing in the kerf that causes heat. Only the rear teeth are in the 
kerf, the front teeth are making it. It's either the rear teeth or the blade's 
body that rubbing against the wood. From my earlier geometrical analysis, I'd 
venture to say that if it's the blade's body, it's the part of the body behind 
the center that's rubbing, not the part in front. If the front teeth are 
burning then either you're moving the wood too slowly and/or you've got 
blade/arbor runout.

BTW, I wouldn't want to try lifting a board off a running table saw mid-way 
through a cut - it sounds really dangerous.

Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
Date: Thursday, 30 Jul 1992 13:54:58 EDT
From: <34AEJ7D@CMUVM.BITNET>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Cutting sheet goods - best way? SUMMARY

First, I'd like to thank everyone who responded.

A number of you pointed me toward the Shopnotes project on building
a panel saw. Short of buying a commercial panel saw, this is
probably the best solution when cutting accuracy, ease/speed of
use and repeatability of cut are considered.

Next in line came a variation on the way I am using: cutting with
a circular saw running along a straightedge. The suggestion was to
make the cut with the circular saw *slightly* oversize, then trim to
precise dimensions with a router and straight bit (possibly with BB guide)
running along a similar straightedge setup. This sounds like the way
I'll go for the moment.

A number of you pointed to the article in the August, 1992, Fine Woodworking
about various cutting guides.

Again, thanks to everyone for their suggestions, both posted to
the net and sent privately. It's nice to know there's a great
bunch of knowledgeable guys out there willing to help with problems.

Now I guess I'll go and drool over my SSC (Safety Speed Cut) catalog
a little. :-)

W. K. (Bill) Gorman
From: hollen@megatek.UUCP (Dion Hollenbeck)
Subject: Re: Corian tops for router tables
Organization: Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 21:58:51 GMT

>>>>> On Tue, 28 Jul 1992 16:14:56 -0400, Steve Mosier <MOSIER@UNCG.BITNET> said:
Steve> Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Steve> MIME-version: 1.0
Steve> Content-type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=US-ASCII
Steve> Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT

> Bill> Whoa!  This stuff is expensive.  At 24 inches wide, the best quote
> Bill> I can find so far is $10 (that's ten whole bucks) A LINEAR INCH!.
> Bill> So, for a 2 foot by 2 foot table top, we're looking at $240 bucks.
>
> Yes, but I am having a very hard time finding it.  There is a plywood
> called FinForm used to build concrete forms.  It is 3/4" Finnish Birch
>       :
>       :
> who will order it for me.  I have heard prices from $75 to $150 per
> 4x10 sheet, so this is very expensive.

Steve> Whoa again!!  My router table, saw tables, etc. are cheapo
Steve> plywood covered with Formica.  When something untoward happens
Steve> and the table gets zapped/cracked/pounded/etc., its fairly
Steve> simple to whack out a new one.  Why spend all that money on
Steve> anything that can get damaged in a shop (read: anything but
Steve> cast iron)?  This isn't a candidate for the back cover of FWW,
Steve> you know.  (Or is it??)  8-)

Well, no, it is not, but it will have very nice furniture quality
under cabinet and I have had some problems in the past with
de-lamination of laminates.  On top of that, standard plywood has
voids and is quite soft, while cabinet grade birch  plywood does not
have any voids and is pretty hard.  If you look at the plans that are
sold by The Woodworker's Store for a router table it requires one
piece of 1/2" and one piece of 3/8" birch plywood.  A 2 x 3 sheet of
the 1/2" is $25 at my local wood working store.  Buying a sheet is up
over $100 already.  I am buying 3/4" and getting laminate on it at
about the same price ($150 for a 4x8 sheet).

On top of that I don't generally do anything but route on a router
table so the likelihood of anything untoward happening is rather slim.
Besides, I like everything I make to be the best it can be.  Maybe I
am just anal retentive or something.  B-}

I don't suggest that if you are content with standard 3/4" ply that
you even consider using what I prefer to use, but for someone who
considered $10 a linear inch for Corian, my solution is cheap.  Note
that I also suggested plywood with laminate in my original posting
(didn't I, or am I going senile?).

-- 
Dion Hollenbeck       UUCP: {uunet, ucsd, sun}!megatek!hollen
                      INTERNET:            hollen@megatek.com
Megatek Corporation  9645 Scranton Rd.  San Diego, Ca.  92121
From: ron@pilot.njin.net (Ron Natalie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: wiring riddle
Date: 23 Jul 92 16:06:34 GMT
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

Well...should be easy to check the box with the four way
switch should have two wires going to switch 1 and two wires
going to switch 3.  Remove the switch.  Take one wire from
Switch 1 and connect it to a wire to switch 3.  Connect
the other two wires (doesn't matter which as long as you
connect the wire to the opposite switch rather than to the
other wire coming from the same switch).  If that works,
then the problem is with switch 2 , otherwise you have other problems.

First thing to check on switch 2 is to make sure that it was
instaled properly.  It does make a difference which terminals
you connect the wires to.  You can check the switch with an
ohmmeter.  The idea of the switch is to connect the wires
as you connected them in the previous paragraph when it is
in one position, or to connect to the other combination that
you cuold have connected them above.

Given the combinations you describe, miswiring the 4 way can
lead to the behavior that you describe.

-Ron
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: billq@fnal.gov (William R. Quayle)
Subject: Grizzly question answered, thanks.
Reply-To: billq@pogo.fnal.gov
Organization: Independant Consultant
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 20:16:08 GMT


Thanks to Bennett.  I've got an evening's worth of reading.  Now,
if my dad was only on the net...:-)

billq
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: doshay@ursa.arc.nasa.gov (David Doshay)
Subject: Re: Installing a pre-hung door
Organization: NASA-Ames Biocomputation Center
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 00:55:31 GMT

In article <JEFF.92Jul22111907@claw.clearpoint.com>, jeff@claw.clearpoint.com (Jeffrey J. Griglack) writes:
|> On 21 Jul 92 20:34:08 GMT, doshay@ursa.arc.nasa.gov (David Doshay) said:
|> 
|> D> There are only two thinge to get right, and the rest is simple.
|> D> Thoes two things are:
|> D> 	Level
|> D> 	Plumb
|> D> If you do not know which to do where, then you are in too deep. Otherwise, 
|> D> if you have the tools, you will do just fine. 
|> 
|> I disagree.  You forgot the only thing that really is necessary:  make 
|> sure that the frame stays square.
|> 
|> Level and Plumb are nice things for the door to be, if the wall is
|> level and plumb.  But if the wall is not, as is the case in my 150
|> year old house, mounting your door this way can look bad and cause
|> trouble.  I have found that life is a lot easier if you go with the
|> flow (of the house).  Purists may disagree.
|> --

I guess that I do. In my house (a relatively new 57 years  ;-)) I install
door frames plumb and level, and then the frame must be square. I shim
the frame from the non-plumb walls and non-level floors. 

Just my preference. Of course if I ever jack my whole house up and level
it, the door will no longer be plumb or level, but it will still be 
pretty close to square.

By the way, the best way to set the frame square is by measuring the diagonals.
The frame is square only when the two diagonals measure the same. This works
much better that trying to use a framing square in each corner.

David		doshay@soma.arc.nasa.gov

The thought police insist I tell you:
my thoughts, not NASA's
From: ron@pilot.njin.net (Ron Natalie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Are there any copyrights in WW writing?
Date: 27 Jul 92 17:25:10 GMT
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

> My question is does Duginski has some kind of a copyright over
> the material published in his book?  Is the micro adjusting fence is a generic
> concept (evolved from fore fathers) so that no body has a right on it?

Concepts are not protected by copyrights, only expression.  Now if the
fence were protected by patent, then he might have some action.

-Ron
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-Acknowledge-To: <UKA004@UKCC.uky.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Thu, 30 Jul 1992 11:07:07 EDT
From:         "Bramel, Jim" <UKA004@UKCC.UKY.EDU>
Subject:      Re: Seeking Info on Oddball Planes

Tony,

     Tried to contact you privately.  This is what I found.

     According to "The Antique Collector's Guide to Value" the Stanley
#48 is $25-45, more if mint.  The Stanley is a Match Plane or Tongue
and Groove.  I did not find a Union #43 in the guide.  I did find a
Stanley #43 which is valued at $175-225.


                                             Jim
From: jwas_ss@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Jason Wasson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: wood working books?
Date: 27 Jul 92 16:52:09 GMT
Organization: University of Rochester - Rochester, New York

Could anyone recomend few good and reliable books for general woodworking?
I'm interested in building furniture (i.e. bookcases, a futon) as well
as general projects.  If this is in the FAQ for rec.woodworking then
could someone tell me where the archive is of the FAQ.


							Thanks,
							Jason Wasson
						jwas_ss@uhura.cc.rochester.edu
-- 
					Jason Wasson
					jwas_ss@uhura.cc.rochester.edu
From: smp@cathedral.cerc.wvu.wvnet.edu (Shailesh M. Potnis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Are there any copyrights in WW writing?
Date: 27 Jul 92 14:12:38 GMT


	The recent issue of the WoodSmith mag has a few articles on the band
saw aids.  One is a tip on making straight cuts and the second is an article
on the micro adjustable fence for it.  I have seen the similar fence in Mark
Duginski's (sp) book and also a similar tip.  Actually the fence is almost
90% identical.  My question is does Duginski has some kind of a copyright over
the material published in his book?  Is the micro adjusting fence is a generic
concept (evolved from fore fathers) so that no body has a right on it?

	I like the WoodSmith mag.  But In the recent issues their articles seem
un-original.  Also their results of this month's contest about cutting plywood
was mostly average.  (The plywood fence is actually inferior in the design
compared to the one published in the Fine WW mag which has dual use as a router
fence).  I have seen the router T square fence published at several places.

	This is not meant to be a flame on the WoodSmith mag. but just a
suggestion and a reader comment.


	Shailesh

--
Shailesh Potnis, Associate	|Concurrent Engineering Research
Member of Technical Staff	|Center, West Virginia University
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: hollen@megatek.UUCP (Dion Hollenbeck)
Subject: Re: While on the subject of cordless drills
Organization: Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 16:15:57 GMT

>>>>> On Mon, 27 Jul 1992 16:47:44 EDT, John Wyman <LIBJCW@SUVM.BITNET> said:

John> I just had to replace the battery pack on my B & D cordless drill -
John> unnecessarily I feel.  It lasted about four years - is that considered
John> a long time?

John> The clerk at B&D claimed that I caused it, since I "did not leave it
John> plugged in all the time", which is supposed to be in the owners manual.

John> This contradicts everything I'd learned about rechargeable batteries -
John> one charges them when necessary, and in fact it is "a good practice to
John> fully discharge the battery pack" (or is this just hear-say?).

John> Is the clerk right and should all rechargeable items be left in all the
John> time?  He was surprised when I told him that I avoid rechargeable items
John> for just this same reason.  Regards.

Maybe there are different types of batteries/chargers combinations.  I
took my trusty 3/8" Makita to the service center because it would not
work and was told that I had destroyed the battery by leaving it
plugged in all the time.  Unfortunately this drill did not have
removable batteries, but a plug for the charger cord in the handle.
My new Makita has the 9.2V removable batteries and I rotate 3 around
giving me one in some indeterminate state of discharge and 2 full ones
at the beginning of a project.

-- 
Dion Hollenbeck       UUCP: {uunet, ucsd, sun}!megatek!hollen
                      INTERNET:            hollen@megatek.com
Megatek Corporation  9645 Scranton Rd.  San Diego, Ca.  92121
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: baud@kepler.eedsp.gatech.edu (Kurt Baudendistel)
Subject: Re: Home Brew Dust Collector
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 1992 15:24:47 GMT

In article <3560036@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM> king@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (Phil King) writes:
>Something I have seen, but have not had a chance to try, is using a
>furnace filter to remove the dust ...

There is nothing like real experience, as opposed to ``just reading about
it,'' and that is what this group is all about!

I do use a box fan with a furnace filter on it, but for secondary, not
primary, dust removal. Just put a filter on your box fan on the intake
side (no dust in the motor) and run it at slow speed all the time in your
shop, even after you leave. This clears out dust in the air constantly.
I've noticed a significant difference in the dust level in the shop
after picking up this habit.

I won't comment on the oil in the filter. I don't use it.

-- 
Kurt Baudendistel ---                                           --- GRA
Georgia Tech, School of Electrical Engineering, Atlanta, GA  30332-0250
internet: baud@eedsp.gatech.edu              uucp: gatech!gt-eedsp!baud
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: billq@fnal.gov (William R. Quayle)
Subject: Re: While on the subject of cordless drills
Reply-To: billq@pogo.fnal.gov
Organization: Independant Consultant
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 13:51:06 GMT

In article <17014@ulysses.att.com>, smb@ulysses.att.com (Steven Bellovin) writes:
|> In article <HOLLEN.92Jul28081557@peg.megatek.UUCP>, hollen@megatek.UUCP (Dion Hollenbeck) writes:
|> > Maybe there are different types of batteries/chargers combinations.  I
|> > took my trusty 3/8" Makita to the service center because it would not
|> > work and was told that I had destroyed the battery by leaving it
|> > plugged in all the time.
|> 
|> Indeed there are.  For example, a Panasonic spokescritter was quoted in
|> WOOD magazine as saying that NiCad technology had improved to the point
|> where there's no longer any need to full discharge batteries before
|> recharging them.  (In fact, I'd read that one should never fully discharge
|> NiCads, even old ones, since some of the individual cells in the battery
|> may flip polarity if you do that.)  The instructions with my Panasonic
|> drill warn against leaving a battery on charge for more than ~48 hours,
|> but say nothing about when to recharge.

So maybe one thing to do would be to put the charger on a timer?  If you
use the drill intermittently, set the timer to click the charger on once
a week, or whatever suits your use.  Anyone know of a problem with this?

-billq
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 27 Jul 1992 16:47:44 EDT
From:         John Wyman <LIBJCW@SUVM.BITNET>
Subject:      While on the subject of cordless drills

I just had to replace the battery pack on my B & D cordless drill -
unnecessarily I feel.  It lasted about four years - is that considered
a long time?

The clerk at B&D claimed that I caused it, since I "did not leave it
plugged in all the time", which is supposed to be in the owners manual.

This contradicts everything I'd learned about rechargeable batteries -
one charges them when necessary, and in fact it is "a good practice to
fully discharge the battery pack" (or is this just hear-say?).

The current battery pack is not as good as the earlier one
- there is not as much torque (power?) as before.  How is this measured
or judged?

Is the clerk right and should all rechargeable items be left in all the
time?  He was surprised when I told him that I avoid rechargeable items
for just this same reason.  Regards.


    John Wyman, Research Computing Services, 120 Machinery Hall
    Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY 13244-1260 (315-443-1144)
                     (LIBJCW@SUVM.ACS.SYR.EDU)
From: tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Handcutting Dovetails
Date: 21 Jul 92 19:21:29 GMT
Distribution: world, na, usa
Organization: University of Arizona UNIX Users Group

>>> Question about handcutting dovetails....
>> Do you have a bandsaw or a tablesaw?
> Whats your point?

The point is that I have a relatively quick and easy way to make such dovetails
with either table saws or bandsaws doing most of the work for you...   you end
up doing the clean up and fitting by hand,  but most of the hard work is down 
by Reddi Kilowatt.    I described it here a year or so ago, and several other
people commented that they did it the same way,  or had read articals
from professional woodworkers teaching them how to do it that way.

It has the advantages that it can quickly make dovetails in  any sized wood 
(most jigs are limited to 5/4 and less), uneven spacing, through tails, etc.
However, the description of that proceedure is several screens long and
requires some ASCII graphics to make it clear enough to avoid mistakes,  I 
wasn't going to bother to spend 20 to 30 minutes to type it in only to have 
you say;  "Thanks, but I don't have either of those tools".

You could have simply answered "Yes" or "No",  that would have been quicker.
Why did you hedge and avoid a simple direct question?   Afraid I was with
the IRS and we were going to audit you if you said yes,  or that I was going to
berate you if you said yes?

Sheesh,  try to help somebody and all you get is defense posturing.  Bugger
that.   Well,  go figure it out on your own then.

grump grump grump
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-VMS-To: IN%"WOODWORK%IPFWVM.BITNET@pucc.Princeton.EDU"
MIME-version: 1.0
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 27 Jul 1992 13:15:02 -0800
From:         RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM
Subject:      Re: tapping in aluminum chassis
X-To:         WOODWORK%IPFWVM.BITNET@pucc.Princeton.EDU

I've had great success grinding broken taps out of cast iron using a
dremmil tool.

                                Ron
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: brown@venus.iucf.indiana.edu (Robert J. Brown)
Subject: Re:      Re: tapping in aluminum chassis
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.3-4   
Reply-To: brown@venus.iucf.indiana.edu
Organization: IUCF
Distribution:  na
Date: 28 JUL 92 10:40:42    

In article <01GMVHPANVQA8Y4Y6T@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM>,         RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM writes...
>I've had great success grinding broken taps out of cast iron using a
>dremmil tool.
> 
>                                Ron
You break off a lot of taps do you Ron?? :-)                      B**2
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking