From: rjw@nsa.hp.com (Richard Webber)
Subject: Re: Darkroom Equipment Questions
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 18:42:50 GMT
Organization: Networked Systems Architecture, Hewlett-Packard Company

In article <1992Jul23.215024.17518@sco.COM> staceyc@sco.COM (Stacey Campbell) writes:

   I use Oly OM 35mm camera equipment.  My darkroom will be a large
   walk-in closet with power, ventilation, and no running water.  The
   house is a rental, so I'm not interested in "modifications" to the
   house to get a more usuable darkroom.  The kitchen is very close by.
   I don't plan on going medium format or color in the near future, if
   ever.  Cost is a concern.

My fiance and I set up our darkroom in a basement (with no running water) for 
$250 total.  It worked out fine - but be warned, keep you piggy bank out of 
reach, once you get hooked....

   So, the questions;

   1. What is the most straightforward non-hobbypak film and paper
   developer chemical combination, my right hand only has limited use
   so the less chemicals I have to juggle the better (even if that
   means initally lower image quality).

There's a wide range of chemicals you can get that are all in concentrate form
rather than powders.  A lot of the advice you'll get will probably be which
developers people like with which films and why...  My advice is pick a film
and developer and stick with it for a while.  I chose Kodak TMAX 100 as the
film and TMAX developer and Kodak rapid fixer.  The fixer necessitates mixing
in a hardener that is sulphuric acid - so you may want to pick another fixer
that you simply dilute with water.  Some people love TMAX - some hate it.  The
other Kodak films that are popular are Plus-X (125) and Tri-X (400).  You may
want to try D-76 developer (lots of people make this - in powder and 
concentrate) - it's a really standard developer.  Then of course there are
Ilford films (HP5 & FP4) and chemicals - also fine products.  I would pick 
either Ilford or Kodak and then stick with it for a bit.  I don't see any
reason why you'll need to compromise on image quality - as long as you can
dilute a concentrate.

The same is true for printing - the chemicals are available in concentrates
and there is a wide choice of paper and chemicals.  With limited water
available and for ease of handling at first, I would recommend Resin Coated
(RC) rather than fiber based paper (RC requires a much shorter wash).  I often
use Ilford Multigrade RC, Kodak does a polycontrast RC too.  Both are
available in a variety of finishes.  You'll need a set of filters for
multigrade/polycontrast.  Buy the kodak ones if you are using kodak
paper, and the Ilford ones for Ilford paper - they are slightly
different I believe.  These run about $30 for 3"x3" filters I think.

   2. I've got my eye on some second hand enlargers, would it be better to
   get, say, a new Omega C700 from B+H in Pop Photo (I've had good luck
   buying lenses and film from them)?

I bought a used (Honywell) enlarger and lens from a friend for $75.  I never
looked much at new.  You might want to consider used - I just bought a used
4x5 enlarger that I am very pleased with.  Other folks might be able to give
you better advice for 35mm enlargers.

   3. I think this is the list of the expensive bits (is it?);
	   - enlarger with baseboard

Yes.

	   - lens and 35mm negative carrier

Yes - except my first lens sells for $29.95 new!  Try getting the neg carrier
with the enlarger.

	   - easel

New, 2-blade, up to 8x10 is about $50-$100.  I bought a $25 4-in-1 type - I 
hate it.

	   - safelight

I bought a "safe bulb" that has coloured glass.  Watch out - mine was not very
safe.  For about $25 you can get a "Premier" safelight that has removable 
filters (5"x7" I think).  For twice as much you could get one with a kodak
glass (rather than acetate) filter - this will be very good.

   4. Are these all the slightly less expensive bits?
	   - 4 trays (devel, stop, fix, wash)
Cheap ($4 each for 8x10)
	   - tongs
Cheap
	   - film and paper squeeges

Hmmm - some people swear by film squeeges, others ask "why take so much care
with your film and then, when you have got the emulsion as soft as it will
go, rub it with sandpaper?".  You may want to try an extra drop of wetting
agent (photo flo) instead.

	   - thermometer

Less than $10 I think

	   - clips for hanging drying film

I used clothes pins for a while

	   - graduate
cheap
	   - jars for mixed chemicals
cheap
	   - developing tank and reel

I think the Patterson ones run about $30 for a two (35mm) reel tank and one
reel.  About $10 for the second reel?

	   - proofing aid for easel

Sheet of glass - $3 - and a piece of thin foam underneath.

	   - timer

I used my digital watch ($4.95 from K-Mart!) which I can read under a 
safelight.
	   - stirrer

Never did use one of these - if I'm not using powders, I trust Brownian motion
(not to mention all that inverting that goes on!)

   5. What is going to be the least difficult film reel to load if
   I only have limited use of my right hand?  I'm thinking Patterson
   auto at the moment.

I think the Patterson is the one for you.  Some folks have had jams - I have
not.  The metal ones are better for keeping the temperature constant, and
use a little less chemicals, but you may find them harder to load with a
hurt wrist.

One thing you failed to mention is a dust free bag to dry your film.  Unless,
after having rubbed the emulsion with sandpaper, you would like to preserve
some of your dog's hair for posterity.  I'm serious here - if you dry your 
film in the open air, you are likely to get dust particles dried into the 
emulsion, and when you blow the pictures up to 8x10 they'll look the size of
marshmallows.  You can buy drying bags (for around $60 I think) - I tried
one of those garment bag things that we had - one with a frame and a plastic
cover with a zip up the front.  It worked fine - but was only long enough
for 24 exposure films.

   Thanks for any advice.

You're most welcome.  My answers are tainted with my prejudice, as are most
peoples... I started out on a tight budget and I think it's a great idea.
At some times it's frustrating and at others very satisfying - but at least you
learn the limitations of what you have, and know better where to spend money
to see improvement.

   -- 
	     Stacey Campbell - staceyc@sco.com - uunet!sco!staceyc

Have fun!

Richard Webber