HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: sasbge@ant.unx.sas.com (Gantt Edmiston)
Subject: Southern Living Houseplans
Reply-To: sasbge@ant.unx.sas.com
Organization: SAS Institute Inc.
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1992 20:54:44 GMT
Originator: sasbge@ant.unx.sas.com
X-Bytes: 1860

Hi, Just tuned into this group because I have recently purchased some
land and would like to build.  Don't know if I am in the right place or
not, so you regulars, lemme know if I need to plead my case somewhere else!

I ordered some house plan sets from Southern Living Magazine.  One of the
sets was their SL Hometown collection by Stephen S. Fuller.  I called
the offices of Mr Fuller and was told that Southern Living now owns the
rights to the plans and that I would have to call SL.  So I did.  I am
inquiring *specifically* about the plan in that collection called,
"Shiloh Creek", plan number 805HT.  If *any* reader out there in netland
has more info regarding this specific house, please mail me or post back
here and I will get in touch with you.

I am very interested in this plan as the one I choose, but would really 
like to see a real life copy.  My idea is to find someone who has built this
plan and go visit them (or the house anyway).  SL does not reveal the
names of their buyers of any specific plans.  I guess that I can understand
that everyone has a right to their privacy.  I would certainly get permission
from the owner(s) before I ventured out.  The only other option I have is
to drop $230.00 for the working set of plans.  I am not *that* convinced
that it is worth it right now.

It never hurts (much) to ask.  Thanks, Gantt Edmiston


-- 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Gantt Edmiston               SAS Institute Inc. |
Quality Assurance            SAS Campus Drive   |  "The fewer the facts,
Host Systems                 Room V416          |   the stronger the opinion!"
(919)677-8000 x6091          Cary, NC   27513   |
Internet: <sasbge@ant.unx.sas.com>              |
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: mjc+@cs.cmu.edu (Monica Cellio)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Inspection clauses (Re: Things to look for when buying a house)
Date: 7 Apr 92 18:45:03 GMT
 <1992Mar27.224220.15705@rayssd.ssd.ray.com> <3701@phred.UUCP> <3506@speedy.mcnc.org>
Organization: School of Computer Science, Carnegie Mellon

pickel@mcnc.org (Lisa C. Pickel) writes:
[offer contingent on inspection]
>Ah, would it were so.  Unfortunately there IS a risk to this method.  My best
>friend had made an offer on a house, found severe structural problems with
>it during the inspection, and had to sue to get back her earnest money.

Well, people on either side of a contract can always be jerks, but I gather
that this sort of situation isn't the norm.  A well-written inspection
contingency will protect the buyer from such gross problems.  You may have
to go to court in a small number of cases, but you can't entirely prevent
that.

Things you should include:
  - financial limit on each individual problem
  - financial limit on problems in the aggregate
  - areas that are specifically included -- e.g. roof, structure, heating,
    plumbing, electdricity, etc (what is being inspected)
  - some indication of what "unsatisfactory" means

My inspector (who was ASHI) had three ratings for each of about 100 
specific points -- ok, marginal, and bad.  (I didn't know this when I 
was making the offer or I would have been more specific in mine.)

The wording my realtor offerred me (which I rejected) was something like:
"...contingent upon an inspection that turns up no significant problems
(where significant is defined as costing more than $500 to fix)".  I 
insisted that there be a "total limit" as well, so I didn't get hit with
a dozen $499 problems, and so mine included the phrase "...or $1500 in
the aggregate", which wording was supplied by my lawyer.  This still left
open the question of what defines a problem that has to be fixed; I would
suggest something like: "contingent upon an inspection that turns up no
problems rated as "marginal" or "failed" by a qualified ASHI inspector that
cost more than $X each or $Y in the aggregate".  If you can get away with
it, try for the even more general "contingent on an inspection satisfactory
to the buyer" -- this lets *you* define "satisfactory" (but they probably
won't go for it).

I'm not a lawyer or a realtor.

Monica
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: thundt@dis9001.shearson.com (Thomas M. Hundt)
Subject: Re: Things to look for when buying a house
Organization: Lehman Brothers
	<1680@nic.cerf.net>
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 21:31:00 GMT

   From: wirthc@portnoy.sdsc.edu (Colleen Wirth)
   One of the big qualms I have about realtors is how qualified are they? My
   aunt (who's an absolute fool) has a realtor's licence here in California.

Any shmoe can be a realtor.  (I know, I've met many.)  Takes a
two-week course, usually paid for by the real-estate agency in return
for a commitment to work for them full-time for X months.

All it really means is that they've read a textbook and taken a quiz.


-Tom Hundt
"Integrity is an optional extra."

Thomas M. Hundt -*- thundt@shearson.com -*- hundt@samadams.princeton.edu
From: haim@dancer.uucp (24122-kilov)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: septic - request for info
Keywords: septic
Date: 13 Apr 92 21:20:41 GMT
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ


I am sorry if it's a FAQ, but...

I am considering an otherwise good house (27-year-old raised ranch) with a
septic. The property size is about 100 x 500. I've looked into a home inspection
book, and it hints that there may be very serious problems (and that
inspecting a septic is essentially equivalent to dealing with a black box).
It also says that "extending" a septic or reinstalling it may be needed every
20-30 years, and that there should be space for doing that on the property.
And that it may cost thousands.

So, the question is: should I just forget about the house? If not, what
should I look for?

[Another sort of useful info: the house has a pool.]

Thanks a lot.

If there is interest, I may summarize the responses.

-Haim Kilov
haim@bcr.cc.bellcore.com
From: mryan@stsci.edu (Mary Ryan)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: hollow-core door questions
Date: 8 Apr 92 20:30:42 GMT
Organization: Space Telescope Science Institute


All my interior doors are hollow-core.  One has a hole about 1" long by
1/8" wide.  How can I patch it?  Wood putty just falls into the hollow center.

I would also like to put some coat hooks on the inside of a closet door,
and put a mirror on the outside of one.  What kind of fasteners should I
use?
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: harrism@aquila.rtp.dg.com (Mike Harris)
Subject: Improvement Value Adds?
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 92 19:41:07 GMT
Distribution: usa
Reply-To: harrism@dg-rtp.dg.com
Organization: Data General Corp., Research Triangle Park, NC

	We are trying to decide how to divvy out our home improvement 
	budget. The current status is:

	Windows - single pane (w tiny panes) with storm. Painted.
	- considering replacement with energy efficient double pane
	and possibly varnished - not painted trim.

	Doors (interior) - chintzy hollow core - replace with nicer 4/6 
	panel solid or foam filled. Stained, not painted.

	Trim associated with doors/windows - replace painted pine with
	varnished hardwood. Most of the problem here (other than prefering
	varnished wood) is sloppy, gloppy painting of the trim.

	Due to the need for painting, we'd like to address windows, doors,
	and trim at the same time. 

	Carpet worn - intend new carpet (w good padding) in back and
	hardwood in front.

	Kitchen
		intend to open up kitchen/dining room by removing
		short wall and removing cabinet isthmus and extending
		cabinets (new custom cabinets also).

		Replace laminate counter material with Corian like matl.

		flooring worn - replace

	Bathrooms
		replace flooring
		replace wallpaper
		replace one of the showers
		replace cabinets

	
	Painting is a first priority, so input on the windows/doors/trim
	is important. We'd *like* new varnished trim, but could stand
	with repainting the trim. If we did that, the new windows would
	be important mostly if they would save considerably on bills or
	hurt considerably when selling the house. The doors we'd get 
	around to - it'd be easier to use prehung w new trim now than
	to rehang later.

	The carpets will happen and will follow the painting. The hardwood
	will follow.

	The kitchen is a certainty, but we're not sure how far to go.
	It's either everything ($$$$) or new flooring, new counters/backspash,
	and probably new cabinet doors.

	The bathrooms will happen but are a final priority - esp considering
	they're self contained projects with smaller time and capital 
	requirements.

	What we're having problems with is escalation - if we try and
	add much then we quickly end up adding everything. What we need
	is temperance to help us be consistent and notch the house up
	a notch or two class wise.

	Any help with recommendations or advice is appreciated.

-- 

Mike Harris - KM4UL                      harrism@dg-rtp.dg.com
Data General Corporation                 {world}!mcnc!rti!dg-rtp!harrism
Research Triangle Park, NC
From: carl@Cayman.COM (Carl Heinzl)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Refinishing Bathtubs??
Date: 13 Apr 92 20:57:53 GMT
Organization: Cayman Systems Inc., Cambridge, MA
In-reply-to: scoatney@hpcupt3.cup.hp.com's message of 10 Apr 92 00:28:30 GMT
bcc: carl


>We had our bathtub done 2+ years ago. The stuff is peeling off the bathtub 
>in a couple of places - around the faucets, under the soapdish, at the
>tub/tile connection.

>I would strongly recommend against it - it wasn't cheap and it certainly
>doesn't last.

Well, for every bad story, you'll probably hear a good one too.  We
had two bathtubs refinished two years ago.  It cost $450 or so and
came with a 3 year warranty.  So far, no problems, both bathtubs look
great, and one of them is in a rental unit, so half of the cost was at
least deductible!

-Carl-
--
From: winner@Apple.COM (Stephanie Winner)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Drought-resistant groundcover
Date: 17 Apr 92 17:06:35 GMT
Organization: Apple Computer Inc., Cupertino, CA

In article <4100612@hpcc01.corp.hp.com> brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks) writes:
>You might want to take a read through the Sunset book sections, but as
>far as I know, drought-resistant ground covers aren't very tolerant of
>traffic at all.  There are some newer strains of grass under development
>which are supposed to be pretty drought-tolerant.  There was an article
>on this last year, but the pertinant point was that the developers
>did not think they'd have anything ready for market before 1993.  I'd
>suspect that it will be sod at first.
>

I have been thinking about using one of the drought-tolerant grasses
for a while and just this week finally planted a new lawn (in Santa
Clara).  I chose Buffalo grass since it required the least amount of
water.  I plan to water it twice monthly using an underground soaker
hose (by Raindrip). I ordered the seed from Sharp Bros since they
specialize in native grasses.  If the birds don't eat all of the seeds
I'll be able to followup.  I don't expect it to be the lushest lawn
and it may not thrive in this climate, but it's worth a try!  BTW
another benefit of Buffalo grass is that it is very slow growing, but
it will probably turn brown in the winter.

Stephanie Winner
winner@apple.com
From: perley@trub.crd.ge.com (Donald P Perley)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Recommendations on power painters
Date: 10 Apr 92 16:14:09 GMT
	<5012@tekig7.PEN.TEK.COM>
Distribution: usa
Organization: GE Corp. R & D, Schenectady, NY 12345

In article <5012@tekig7.PEN.TEK.COM> thomase@tekig5.pen.tek.com (Thomas Stan England) writes:

Danny,

=If you intend to paint more that say a door, you should probably
=consider renting a compressor and a spray head that uses a siphon hose
=that can be put into a large paint bucket.

=I helped with one housepainting project and several people brought
=their power sprayers (Wagner and another that I don't remember the
=name of). While they did a fine job on the doors and other small
=areas, the thought of trying to cover many square feet with that
=constant tat-tat-tat of the sprayer changed my mind about ever using
=one on a big project.

I misses the original reference, but I still have a couple of comments:

I used a Wagner on my house.  The answer to the noise, as with any loud
tool, is ear protection.  If you prefer, wear a walkman underneath.

I started off with the hose and bucket arrangement, but trying to manage
that on a ladder was much more trouble than using an attached tank and 
coming back down for refills.

My father always used a compressed air sprayer on his house.  The sprayer
itself is lighter, but dragging hoses is more of a pain than an extension
cord, and I think more of the paint ends up on the house with an airless
sprayer.

-don perley



--
perley@trub.crd.ge.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: ioguo@mars.lerc.nasa.gov (OA Guo)
Subject: Re: Mortgage brokers
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
Date: 15 Apr 1992 16:17 EDT  

In article <1992Apr15.135448.7051@clpd.kodak.com>, staffan@ca.serum.kodak.com (Kenneth Staffan (x37507)) writes...
>In article <1992Apr14.144427.7029@unx.sas.com> sasmlb@pecos.unx.sas.com (Maria Moore) writes:
>>In article <1992Apr13.200433.6381@tc.fluke.COM> eeng@tc.fluke.COM (Ed Eng) writes:
>>>In article <1992Apr9.122702.11627@clpd.kodak.com>, staffan@ca.serum.kodak.com (Kenneth Staffan (x37507)) writes:
>>>> 
>>>> I wonder how you wouldn't see this.  The "Good Faith Estimate of Closing
>>>> Costs" is supposed to itemize everything.  Now if it is built into the
>>>> 
>>>Just curious, having gone through refinancing like everyone else, how accurate
>>>was your good faith estimate to the final closing costs?  My closing costs were
>>>$400 over not counting daily interest or taxes (basically just paper work
>>
>>At closing the settlement charges were quite a bit different than what the
>>Good Faith Estimate had outlined.  Not only were some things higher but two 
> 
>Moral of these stories:  request, (or have your lawyer request) that exact 
>itemized closing costs be delivered to you several days before closing.  This
>way you won't be facing the dilemna with pen in hand at the closing...
> 
>Ken
	Not always work this way either.  My loan was delayed and delayed and
	delayed until the last day of expiration.  I found out that the
	closing fee would be $2,560 instead of the $1,894 as stated in the
	"Good Faith Estimate" (what an name for this form!).  What could I
	do?  Cancel the loan and reapply?  It would take another two months
	and probably higher interest rate?  I don't know whether there is
	a solution in this situation.

	After the closing and after a heated $#$$%& argument with the broker
	I recovered $480 from the broker.  That was definite not the highlight
	of my life.

	If you are in the Cleveland area and are applying a loan I can tell
	you which one to avoid but can not recommand any good ones.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
OA Guo                        |My statement does not reflect NASA's point of
NASA - Lewis Research Center  |view.  Nor should NASA's statements reflect
Cleveland, Ohio               |my point of view.
From: dimitris@berlioz.nsc.com (Dimitris K. Fotakis)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: negotiating points
Date: 6 Apr 92 22:52:21 GMT
Distribution: ca
Organization: National Semiconductor Corporation

To anyone refinancing or purchasing a home in the Bay Area:

I'd like to highly recommend Ms. Janina Zarifis as a very reliable, honest
and resourceful mortgage broker from Mission Oaks Mortgage at (408) 227-0450.  She definitely gives special consideration and the best terms to
people from the net. 
 
Give her a call, mention where you got her name from and see for yourself.

Thanks
D. Fotakis
NSC, Santa Clara

Disclaimer:  I am in no way related to the person above other than a
satisfied customer.
From: davidbu@loowit.wr.tek.com (David E. Buxton)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Brick walk tips/advice
Date: 14 Apr 92 18:52:26 GMT


I did a walk way using red paving bricks/blocks that are about 1' X 1'.
The walk way is contained within railroad ties.  The blocks are bedded down
in pea gravel so that the paving bricks and gravel between the bricks
are flush with the top of the railroad ties.  Well, actually the blocks
are flush.  There is a little less pea gravel so it does not splash out
so easily.  The contrast in colors looks beautiful.  The blocks are 
carefully spaced into a double row so there is about 2" of gravel around
the blocks and between blocks and railroad ties.

If I was to do it over again I'd bed the blocks in sand or rough cut
gravel, place the blocks and then add the pea gravel.  The pea gravel
under the blocks does mean its easier to dislocate the position of
the blocks.  But that has not been a noticeable problem yet.

One plus is a walkway that could readily be opened up at a future date
to say access some pipes going underneath.o

The idea came from a walkway that used pea gravel with red walk stones
laid on top.  The color contrast looked great, but otherwise looked
home grown and tacky.  Setting everything flush and precision spaced
has resulted in a beautiful effect that lots of people has positively
complimented.

You could use a uniform size of small guage rough cut gravel instead of
the pea gravel and use it for both the base and the filler.  That would
be a lot more stable than the pea gravel which acts a lot like ball
bearings.  I had a big pile of pea gravel in front of my driveway before
I realized I had a pile of ball bearings.  But it worked out quite
well actually.

Dave
From: mmcevill@mitre.org (Michael A. McEvilley)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Selling a home to a VA buyer
Date: 31 Mar 92 18:12:48 GMT
Organization: The MITRE Corporation

In article <1992Mar27.220744.4776@webo.dg.com> don@mystie.rtp.dg.com (Don 
Lehman) writes:
> I don't think the VA requires 
> a general inspection, only a termite inspection.  If the house does not
> appraise to at or above the loan amount the deal is off.

The VA requires an appraisal by the VA.   If the house appraises less than 
the asking price, the deal is NOT off.  The buyer has the option to 
purchase the house anyway.  The VA will never appraise a house for more 
than the asking price (thats just the way the government is).

> Alot of the VA stuff, just pisses off realtors and
> bankers because of all the paper-work, but it shouldn't affect the 
seller.

And it shouldnt be held againt the buyer either.  They are the ones that 
have to deal with all the paperwork.  If you have a GOOD realtor, it wont 
be a problem.  I've bought VA in both a military and non-military market.  
My first mortage took 5 weeks to come thru, the second one took 4 weeks.  
Also, keep in mind that the VA will qualify someone who may not otherwise 
qualify conventionally, because the VA allows higher ratios.  

Michael A. McEvilley
mmcevill@mitre.org
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: hgw@luna.math.ucla.edu (Harold Wong)
Subject: Re: Tri Star vacuum Cleaner
Organization: UCLA Mathematics Department
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 92 18:48:19 GMT

In article <29E4D61D.10891@noiro.acs.uci.edu> jfarran@orion.oac.uci.edu (Joseph Farran) writes:
> Several people asked me to summarized my findings regarding the Rainbow
> vacuum, so here it is :-)

Anybody have any comments on the Tri Star Vacuum cleaner?  Thanks.

Harold


Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: kevins@osf.org (Kevin Sullivan)
Subject: Re: Septic system blues...
Keywords: septic new house
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 13:52:16 GMT

In article <9458@wrgate.wr.tek.com>, davidbu@loowit.wr.tek.com (David E. Buxton) writes:
|> > My house has a 6-year-old septic system.  We have had no problems
|> 
|> Six years sounds long over due.
|> 
|> > Question: when should we expect to pump it out?  We try to limit
|> 
|> It would seem you have not had it pumped at all yet.  Else I'd suggest
|> you get on the phone with the guy who pumped it last.  The size of
|> the tank makes a difference and the person who pumped it last may have
|> made a note of how big your tank is.  Three years I think is what
|> is recommended for the average sized tank.  Six years, and an odor
|> out there.  Phew, sounds like you might be getting to it in the nick
|> of time.  Go for it.
|> 

The real answer is have someone check it out. Although it sounds as if there 
is a problem wrt the odor you cannot make a generalization without knowing the specifics. We pump from the tank to the leach field. As a result of this situation we need pressure relief at the two distribution boxes.  This is 
in the form of two candy canes on our lawn. Periodicly we get a smell 
after the pump has cycled. When we first installed the system the engineer 
claimed that we should clean the tank every two years. (1500 gals)
Of course he told us this after three years. Naturally we paniced.
The first company that came out laughed at us when they pulled the cover 
he told us not to touch it for at least 3 more years. The next 
company told us the same. They said for our size tank and given the 
ingedients of our "sauce" we should only pump every 6-8 years. 

sauce = no wahsing machine output nor any garbage disposal. 

Incidently everyone we have spoken with about septic tanks claims that 
the real killers for leach fields is a garbage disposal. If you have 
a garbage disposal you leach field should be 50% bigger than without.
If you are considering installing a garbage disposal and own a 
septic/leach field don't without checking with the appropriate 
professionals. 

Kevin Sullivan
kevins@osf.org
From: olney@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Doug Olney)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Retaining Wall in Yard
Date: 14 Apr 92 19:06:33 GMT
Organization: HP Network Measurements Div, Santa Rosa, CA

We too have a failing retaining wall, but it hasn't got to the point
where we've done anything but look at DIY replacements.  I like two new
DIY retaining wall systems, both are interlocking blocks that you piece
together to the height and shape you want.

The only one I've seen around here is a pretty expensive material that
is made so that the outer face looks like rough hewn stone.  There is a
variety of block sizes, curvatures, and corners available.  You simply
set the first row on the ground, put in a bunch of fiberglass (I think)
pegs, fill with dirt, and add the next row offset by 1/2 a block width.
A very similar wall was used on Hometime's "House of the Future."

Another type of block, featured on a different Hometime, looked much
more cost effective, but I haven't found it around here.  These were
attractively colored cinderblocks shaped so that neighboring blocks
nest.  They wouldn't be good for a high retaining wall, but looked
perfect for a 2-3 foot job.  

If anyone has seen the second kind of block, and could give me a
manufacturers name and product name, I would appreciate it.  One of the
local places might be willing to order it if I could describe it better.


						  Doug Olney
						  Santa Rosa, CA
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house