HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: chancy@ecn.purdue.edu (Venkatraman Chandrasekaran)
Subject: HELP - CD skipping and Tuner static
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 05:32:44 GMT

Hi Folks

I need some help here. There are a couple of problems with my Pioneer stereo
system.

One, the CD player does not read the disc, I can here the CD spinning for a
few seconds and then stops. There is no sound output at all. I encountered
this problem fairly recently, although it happened once before, about 3 weeks
ago. When I first encountered the problem, I plugged in the CD player to a
different electrical outlet in my apt. and it started working. The same trick
is not working this time.

The second problem, is with the tuner, and has been there for some time now.
There is a lot of static ( I don't know if that is what it is called) - a low
sputtering noise when I change the volume control while playing a CD or a
cassette. The volume control is one of those sliding types, it that matters.
I heard that it could be due to dust accumulation on the potentiometer, if that
is the case, how can I clean it?

Any help regarding the above problems would be appreciated. Thanks.

-chandra

chancy@bank.ecn.purdue.edu
Newsgroups: rec.audio
From: dcb@cs.wpi.edu (David Brown)
Subject: Re: Carver words versus sounds.
Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 01:16:50 GMT

Ive seen several comments here about the terminology used by Carver,
but nothing about the quality of their components. It seems as though
all the comments are about writing rather than sound. Do they sound
good?  Do they offer appropriate performance for their price.
What is the basis of this high end distain towards Carver equipment?
Is there any basis in fact?

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dr. D. C. Brown, AI Research Group,     DCB@CS.WPI.EDU    Phone: (508) 831-5618
CS Dept, WPI, Worcester, MA 01609, USA.                   FAX:   (508) 831-5776
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: lauson@en.ecn.purdue.edu (Patrick W Lauson)
Newsgroups: rec.audio
Subject: Re: question about speaker building
Date: 2 Sep 92 17:39:46 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network

In article <1992Aug27.163331.14646@vax5.cit.cornell.edu> hqu@vax5.cit.cornell.edu writes:
>Questions about building speakers.
>
>     1.  Are there any good speaker building book available?
>     2.  What are the names of mail order places to get the actual
>         speakers from ?
>
Yes, does somebody out there have the address and details on how I can 
order the Loudspeaker Design Cookbook?  I think its on Volume 3 now,
but am unsure.  

-- 
------------------------------------------------------------------
| Pat Lawson                     :  Go Buckeyes!!!!!!            |
| lauson@en.ecn.purdue.edu       :    Scarlet and Gray Rules!!!! |
------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.audio
From: jeff@dsp.sps.mot.com (Jeff Enderwick)
Subject: Re: Very expensive cables
Organization: Motorola DSP Compilers
	<1992Sep3.090451.7970@EE.Surrey.Ac.UK>
Date: 3 Sep 92 08:51:30

what is a "green pen" for a CD ?
Newsgroups: rec.audio
From: digdug@iastate.edu (Doug V Tran)
Subject: # for LUXMAN
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames IA
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 14:48:55 GMT

I have a LUXMAN c-1000 preamp that has no ouput.

So, being brave, I'm going to try to fix the thing but the service manual that
they shipped with it is pretty lousy.

So, I was wondering if anyone would know the # for LUXMAN or LUX AUDIO.


thanks,
later,
doug

Xref: sparky rec.audio:11934 aus.hi-fi:340
From: dcook@spam.ua.oz (David Cook)
Newsgroups: rec.audio,aus.hi-fi
Subject: Choosing cassette decks
Keywords: decisions, decisions, *1000
Date: 30 Aug 92 13:36:49 GMT
Organization: Stats Pure & Applied Maths, Uni of Adelaide, Australia

About 8 months ago, I bought a hi-fi system consistion of 
Harmon/Kardon amp & CD player (HK6100 & HD7300), and Jamo
speakers (CL-10). I'm now looking at a cassette deck, and
finding it even harder than the original purchase. First,
I'm looking at the $600 price range (Australian dollars),
but I'm prepared to go higher. Second, I'd like to know
which brand names have good reputations for cassette decks
- should I stick to H/K (although that blows my $600 :),
or look at other brands ?

Some features I'm looking for : *must* be twin-deck,
should have reasonably good technical specs (to match or
slightly better my existing equipment), and it would be nice
to get as many features as possible for my $ (eg auto-reverse,
various Dolby systems, level meters, tapes counters by time, 
and possibly 3 heads). I have about 200 cassettes at the moment,
and I'm currently recording about 1 tape every fortnight from
the radio, so keeping tapes unmangled and playing well is 
fairly important. In the future, I'll be buying a hi-fi tuner,
so being able to record _well_ from that would be a big plus.

Please e-mail or post suggestions about brand names etc, and 
feel free to ask more details.

PS I'm also looking for a new Walkman under $AUS100 - should I
stick with Sony (my current Sony is 5 years old, and finally
dying :-), or look for some other brand ?

Thanks in advance,


-- 
David T Cook   e-mail: dcook@spam.adelaide.edu.au   Phone: +61 8 228 5709
Assistant Computer Manager, Stats, Pure and Applied Maths, Adelaide Uni.
"Behind the lines, a face that glimmers. Still looking for a face that shines."
       - Heartland, The Sisters of Mercy
Newsgroups: rec.audio
From: trw@spl1.spl.loral.com (Tim R Witort)
Subject: Re: Help with stereo pickup in a VHS VCR
Organization: Loral Software Productivity Laboratory
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 23:33:40 GMT

In article <1839k1INN8tp@cs.utexas.edu>, mohan@cs.utexas.edu (Mohankumar Guruswamy) writes:
|> 
|> 
|> My VHS stereo VCR (JVC HR840U) is having problems picking up the stereo
|> part of the audio from tapes.  I have had the VCR for about 2 years without
|> any problem.  I don't enjoy the movies as much as I used to when I 
|> could listen to the wonderful hi-fi stereo recordings :-(
|> 
|> I have tried cleaning the heads with a MAXELL head cleaning tape 
|> (the kind where you add a few drops of cleaning liquid to the tape 
|> before recording onto it), but it didn't help a bit.

  Hmmm... I was going to advise you to adjust the tracking since I have
had the same problem before with rented videos and a little turn of the
ol' tracking knob *bing!* perfect Hi-Fi stereo output!

|> Thanks in advance,
|> 
|>   Mohan

sorry I don't have a better idea...
-- Tim
From: jstimson@jarthur.claremont.edu (John Stimson)
Newsgroups: rec.audio
Subject: Re: How are speaker impedences specified?
Date: 31 Aug 92 22:13:29 GMT
Organization: Harvey Mudd College, Claremont, CA 91711

In article <1992Aug31.181551.9911@bmerh85.bnr.ca> shiv@bnr.ca (Shiv Naimpally) writes:
>Impedance varies which is why you'll see impedance charts in some
>magazine reviews. Normally the speaker literature will say something
>to the effect that these speakers are nominally rated at 8 ohms (or
>whatever).                            ^^^^^^^^^
>
>This means that on the impedance chart, this is the minimum impedance
>the speakers have.


No.  I'm not sure how nominal impedance is specified, probably just by what
it seems like they could get away with calling it.

Vandersteens (2Ci) are nominally 7 ohm, but get down to 4.
My Infinitys (Ref-3, anyone want to buy a pair?) are nominally 6 ohm, and
I've measured them down to 4 - they possibly go even lower, since they
seem to present a nasty load to my amp, wher Vandersteens do not.

							John
Xref: sparky rec.audio:11901 rec.music.cd:6191
From: chancy@bank.ecn.purdue.edu (Venkatraman Chandrasekaran)
Newsgroups: rec.audio,rec.music.cd
Subject: Repost - HELP !! CD player not reading disc and Tuner static
Keywords: lens and pot cleaning?
Date: 28 Aug 92 21:29:07 GMT
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network


Hi Folks

I need some help here. There are a couple of problems with my Pioneer stereo
system.

One, the CD player does not read the disc. I can here the CD spinning for a
few seconds, reads the number of songs and the duration, then moves to the
1st song, spins vigorously for a few seconds and then stops. There is no sound
output at all. I encountered this problem fairly recently, although it happened
once before, about 3 weeks ago. When I first encountered the problem, I plugged
in the CD player to a different electrical outlet in my apt. and it started
working. The same trick is not working this time. There was a suggestion to use
one of the lens cleaning kits to rectify the problem. I was wondering if the
kits are reliable, as I don't want to damage the lens.

The second problem, is with the receiver, and has been there for some time now.
There is a lot of static ( I don't know if that is what it is called) - a low
sputtering noise when I change the volume control while playing a CD or a
cassette. The volume control is one of those sliding types, it that matters.
I heard that it could be due to dust accumulation on the potentiometer, if that
is the case, how can I clean it?

Any help regarding the above problems would be appreciated. Thanks.

-chandra

chancy@bank.ecn.purdue.edu
Newsgroups: rec.audio
From: interpol@casbah.acns.nwu.edu (Interpol)
Subject: Interesting speaker buzz problem
Organization: Northwestern University, Evanston Illinois.
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 13:38:17 GMT


Hiya netters...

  Got a problem that hopefully somebody out there can solve.  I just got a new
Sony STR-D1090 receiver today, and after hooking up everything, I'm noticing a
small buzzing noise coming out of the rear surround speakers, kind of like a
very small aquarium air pump buzzing noise.  It's not terribly loud, but
during quiet passages, it is noticeable.  There is no such buzz coming out of
the front speakers, which are Cambridge SoundWorks Ensemble II's (which, by
the way, sound EXCELLENT).  The rear surrounds are, and no flames please,
Realistic Minimus 7's.  The question I have is, is there any way to get rid of
this buzz, or is this normal operation (which I doubt it is)?  Also, is this
just normal of brand new receivers?  If so, will a little breaking in solve
the problem?  I've tried AC line filters, grounding, unplugging all other
equipment, turning off lights, etc., and nothing seems to work.  Calling Sony
Customer service only got me some person who basically read me the
"troubleshooting" section of the manual.

  Anyway, there it is.  If anyone has a solution or a possible solution,
please post or e-mail to the above address.  Many, many thanks in advance.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Drew S. Cheng, BA '91 MD '95           | "Compelling, yet tedious...I    |
| Northwestern University                |  feel spent, like a man who is  |
|  Medical School, Chicago, IL USA       |  forced to wear his genitals    |
| Internet : interpol@nwu.edu            |  like a pendant."               |
|                                        |    - Dieter, "Sprockets"        |
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.audio
From: parataxi@leland.Stanford.EDU (Jon Robin King)
Subject: Line Switcher is gone
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 92 22:43:50 GMT

I should have canceled my posting earlier. It is sold.

Jon King
Newsgroups: rec.audio
From: serge@dgbt.doc.ca (Serge Ah Hee)
Subject: Re: CD deterioration
Organization: The Communications Research Centre
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 92 15:38:51 GMT

In article <1992Sep2.153652.13952@beaver.cs.washington.edu> pardo@cs.washington.edu (David Keppel) writes:
>[Pardon if this is a FAQ; I looked and didn't see a FAQ list.]
>
>I have some CD's that are deteriorating, and I wonder what I can expect
>for the rest of my collection.
>
>I generally write my name in indellible marker on disks, jewel boxes,
>etc., so I can loan them out and think I have a better chance of
>getting them back.  I loaned a disk (Epic label, 1987 copyright) to a
>friend who had skipping problems.  I held the CD up to a lamp and
>looked at the other side.  Normally, litte light gets through a disk,
>but where my name is written it seems that the metal in the middle of
>the sandwich had disappeared along one edge of my writing, and the
>light shines through brightly.
>
>Curious, I looked at a number of other CDs in my collection.  All of
>them have occasional bright spots, possibly manufacturing imperfections
>and easily handled by the error correction equipment.  One of the disks
>(Kaleidoscope label, 1987 copyright) has too many imperfections to
>count, probably on the order of a thousand.  None of the imperfections
>correspond to writing on the non-playing side, but this disk has
>substantially more writing on it than the rest, as all four artists
>signed the disk for me.
>
>I've heard that the Aluminum on older disks could deteriorate, but I
>was under the impression that that happened only on some older disks,
>manufactured pre-1985.  I wonder if there are other sorts of expectable
>deterioration, and what I can expect.  Also, I note a direct
>correlation between my writing and the disk's deterioration, in the
>case of the Epic-label disk, so I'm wondering if anybody knows what
>about my writing on this disk caused deterioration and why it's not
>apparant on the other disks I looked at.  It's a shame if my writing on
>the disks -- so that I can keep my collection -- results in me losing
>my collection, but I'm most concerned about avoiding future damage.
>
>		;-D on  ( Lossy storage )  Pardo

I think the alcohol in the marker might be the cause. I friend of mind
got careless and spilled some cleaning alcohol on a cd. In a couple of minutes,
holes started to appear. The plastic was fine, but the metallic layer was 
disappearing...

-- 
Serge Ah-Hee                  "Most troubles come from the fact that people 
serge@dgbt.doc.ca		take for granted of what they have, and 
				only care for what they want."
My opinions are mine only.
Newsgroups: rec.audio
From: kam@dlogics.com (Kevin A. Mitchell)
Subject: Re: Sticky CD player
Organization: Datalogics, Inc.
Date: Wed, 02 Sep 92 15:45:48 GMT

scampbe1@metz.une.edu.au (Stephen Campbell) writes:

>From article <17b9tpINNhvv@matt.ksu.ksu.edu>, by scats@matt.ksu.ksu.edu (Eric Fred Brunt):
>> finton@lactic.cs.wisc.edu (David J. Finton) writes:
>> 
>>>I'm seeking advice about my CD player, which is starting to act up on some
>>>discs.  The player is 7 years old, and our local repair shop was sure that
>>>the problem is either the laser or the motor wearing out.  
>> 
>>>My opinion was that the player probably just needed to be cleaned, 
>>>especially the rails that the laser assembly slides on.  The repair person
>>>said that CD players didn't really suffer from that problem.
>> 
>>>Here are the symptoms:
>>>  (1) On some discs, the player can't find the beginning of some tracks.
>>>      Usually the problem is with the first tracks on the disc. 
>>>  (2) The player will set the laser several minutes into such a track,
>>>      and in the pause mode.  Sometimes the player seems to have its
>>>      laser stuck; going into play mode refuses to play, or advance the
>>>      time on the display, until I skip the player to another track.
>>>      Also, attempting to scan forward or backward from such a point
>>>      affects the laser position (as evidenced by the time displayed) 
>>>      unpredictably;  it skips back and forth.
>>>  (3) Sometimes skipping tracks to the end of the disc and then 
>>>      skipping back to the beginning several times removes the problem.
>>>  (4) Some discs show no problem.

>I had EXACTLY the same symptoms in my Yamaha CDX-1 (very old as far as CD's 
>are concerned). I cleaned the rails etc etc to no avail. As a last resort 
>I took it to the service centre expecting it to be pronounced Dead on 
>arrival. However, it did turn out to be the motor.

I had a similar problem with my Technics player. I took the cover off, and
observed that the servomotor was changing speed OK (hum pitch changed), and
the head was looking around for the tracks.

On a hunch, I stuck my multimeter probes into the wall socket. Only 90VAC.
I called the local power utility and they tweaked the settings on our building's
transformer. 

The player has worked fine since.


-- 
Kevin A. Mitchell                (312) 266-4485
Datalogics, Inc                  Internet: kam@dlogics.com
441 W. Huron                     UUCP: ..!uunet!dlogics!kam
Chicago, IL  60610               FAX: (312) 266-4473
-- 
Kevin A. Mitchell                (312) 266-4485
Datalogics, Inc                  Internet: kam@dlogics.com
441 W. Huron                     UUCP: ..!uunet!dlogics!kam
Chicago, IL  60610               FAX: (312) 266-4473
Newsgroups: rec.audio
From: shiv@bnr.ca (Shiv Naimpally)
Subject: Re: Speaker advice/opinions wanted
Reply-To: shiv@bnr.ca (Shiv Naimpally)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 92 19:20:15 GMT

I've never been terribly impressed with Japaneese speakers (Yamaha
has some okay stuff). Most of the British speaker manufacturers now
have low priced 'entry-level' speakers that are quite good. Canada also
has some excellent stuff in the low $$ range as well made by Paradigm,
Audio Products International (API), and others. For $300, I think you
could do better than a pair of Mits speakers. Don't get me wrong, I
like Mits stuff and have a Mits VCR, but speakers ... no thanks.

Go and audition other speakers in that price range and don't let the
salesman pressure you with 'they won't last long at this price' talk !
(Doesn't Cambridge Soundworks have one for $300 - 2 satellites plus
one sub ? I'm sure thats better than the Mits !)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.high-end
From: rsd@sei.cmu.edu (Richard S D'Ippolito)
Subject: Re: 5881 Tube Questions
Originator: tjk@csd4.csd.uwm.edu
Organization: The Software Engineering Institute
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 13:11:58 GMT


In article <1992Aug26.203356.1121@allegra.att.com>, James Johnston writes:

|> In article <1992Aug25.133619.14830@sei.cmu.edu> I stated:
|>
|> 
|>>It's [the 5881 is] equivalent to the 6L6, 6L6G, 6L6GB, and 6L6GC, which
|>>are beam power tubes

Jim responded:

|> 
|> Um, the 6L6, 6L6G, and 6L6GB have  much lower plate dissipation than
|> the 6L6GC, so I would be very careful in calling them equivelent.
|> 
|> I'm also thinking that the 5881 had a slightly lower Pd than the GC
|> version, but I don't have my tube manual at hand, it's stored in 
|> nitrogen in a vault :-)
|> 
|> [Mine aren't. The 5881 is a special 6L6-G, which means that you can sub a
|> 6L6-GC for it, but not the other way around. In general, you can sub a later
|> model tube in for an earlier model tube, but not the other way around.  -tjk]
|> 

Indeed--sorry for the imprecise writing.  The general assumption for tubes is
that later models (alphabetically) replace earlier ones.  The GC can safely
replace all earlier types, including the 5881, which has ratings between the
GC and the older 6L6s.  The problem is that the manuals use inconsistent
ratings in that the early 6L6s have (plate) design center ratings (360V, 19W),
as does the 5881 (400V, 23W), but the GC has design maximum ratings (500V,
30W).  Design maximum ratings replaced design center ratings in 1957.
Absolute maximum ratings are only rarely used for receiving tubes, being
generally for transmitting tubes.

Up to maximum ratings, the operating characteristics for the above types are
the same.

Rich


   "Please keep in mind that the ultimate goal [of hi-fi] is the
   reproduction of art, and that the invocation of science, while a neat
   parlour trick, is often unnecessary, flawed, and unreasonable."
   --  name mercifully withheld...                            rsd@sei.cmu.edu

Newsgroups: rec.audio.high-end
From: Hjalmar Dijkstra <A512HJAL@HASARA11.BITNET>
Subject:    Russian tubes
Originator: tjk@csd4.csd.uwm.edu
Organization: SARA - Stichting Academisch Rekencentrum Amsterdam
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 13:03:26 GMT
          27 Aug 92  1: 19 MET

Dear Readers,
I bought a bunch of tubes on a visit to sofia, Bulgaria. A few of them have
typenumbers I'm not familiar with. I bought them since they were dirt-cheap
so it wasn't going to be an expensive gamble. I've got three types of tubes
of which I don't know the western equivalent, they are:
5U3C (the U is in fact a"sh" and the C an "s")
5U4C ( ,, )
30p1C ( the p is the Cyrrillic P)
can any of you tell me which tubes these are and where I can find information
on their equivalents.
thanks in advance,
                  greetings,
                            Hjalmar Dijkstra
                            a512hjal@hasara11.bitnet
                            hjalmar@sara.nl


Newsgroups: rec.audio.high-end
From: kk@mcnc.org (Krzysztof A. Kozminski)
Subject: Re: Carver preamp/tuner, good or bad?
Originator: tjk@csd4.csd.uwm.edu
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 13:01:09 GMT
	for info-high-audio@csd4.csd.uwm.edu

In article <kerr.714849336@neptune> kerr@convex.com (Jim Kerr) writes:
|My main requirement that drove me
|away from the true "high-end" gear was my need for a remote control.
|Krell makes a remote control pre-amp, but it's *real* expensive (like $6K
|if I remember correctly).

I looked at Carver CT-17 (I think) two years ago for the same reason
(remote control).  Didn't take me even 15 minutes to return it, for
two reasons:

 * mighty thumps when switching sources

 * phono preamp sucked in all possible respects.  In particular, the highs
   were severely muted (and yes, I made sure that tone controls/filters
   were flat).  The old Hafler 110 I had at the time sounded heavenly
   compared to Carver.

Maybe the sample I had was a lemon, but it sure was sour enough to turn
me off ...

KK
-- 
"Legalize freedom.  Vote libertarian"

Newsgroups: rec.audio.high-end