HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jharring@banner.prime.com (Joe Harrington)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Converting Oil Furnace to Gas...
Date: 20 Aug 92 19:40:29 GMT
Reply-To: jharring@banner.UUCP (Joe Harrington)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Prime Computervision, Bedford MA

It has been suggested to me that an oil-burning furnace can
be converted to burn natural gas.  I have called one heating
contractor to inquire about the price, and he told me he
wouldn't do that conversion, stating that the resulting
unit was not efficient.  He did agree that others would do
the conversion.  Before I make any other inquiries, I 
thought I'd check the net wisdom.  Has anybody had such
a conversion done?  Any comments on the result?

If it makes any difference, the house has steam radiators,
the furnace is approx. 20 years old.  The house is approx.
80 years old, two story, approx 1200 sq. ft.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Dryers: gas vs. electric
Reply-To: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 92 15:00:22 GMT

In article <JON.92Aug12162328@destin.dazixco.ingr.com> jon@ingr.com writes:

>Basically, I'm trying to compute the time to recover my cost, but
>don't have any idea how much kwh electricity or ccf of gas are used /
>year by the average dryer.
>
>I don't have the gas & electric rates for my area on hand, but do any
>of you have any experience in this area?  Any thoughts?

In this area at least, the average consumption figures for the appliance
are posted on a sticker located on the appliance. I don't know if this is
a New Jersey only thing or not, but if that's the case where you are, go
down to the store and check.

Adding the gas line to the dryer is something you may be able to do
yourself. Check local laws. It's fairly easy to do.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | I pity the man who don't drink, 'cause when he
George Patterson -  | gets up in the morning, that's as good as he's
                    | going to feel the whole day.
                    |                             Joe E. Brown
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Need advice on replacing plastic gutters
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 92 04:24:18 GMT

In article <1992Aug15.192440.26256@wuecl.wustl.edu> jab3@cec2.wustl.edu (John Alonzo Breen) writes:

>1.  Type: apparently, the only gutters one can buy at the hardware
>store are aluminum or plastic (the rest of my house has galvanized),
>so I was going to go with the aluminum.  Anyone have any other
>options?

No, but if the aluminum is going to join into some old galvanized, will
this set up some sort of reaction? Aluminum reacts electrolytically
with some other metals.

>2.  Hanging method: from what I gather, there are basically two ways
>to hang the gutter:
>    o   spike and ferrule: this looks the simplest, and looks like it
>would give more strength along the cross-section (for when I lean a
>ladder against it), but hammering in the ferrules while keeping the
>gutter lined up looks like it could be a royal pain.

It is a real pain. Try to find a couple of friends or relatives to keep
it in line while you drive spikes. One friend will do - you can start on
one end and work towards him or her. One other factor. The spikes should
be driven into the ends of your rafters - not just into the fascia
boards. If the old gutters were hung this way, you may find that the
rafter ends are somewhat holey from the previous gutters and won't hold
a spike.

>    o   fascia bracket: this would be easier to install, but it looks
>like it would push the gutter away from the fascia board (that's one
>problem I have with the old plastic gutter).  It also looks like it
>*might* give better hanging support, but not cross-sectionally (and
>the aluminum gutters seem kind of flimsy).

I've also seen some hangers which have straps that are supposed to be
nailed into the roof. Looked to me as if they might cause leaks, but the
gutters were solid.

>3.  fascia board: does anyone know what kind of wood this should be?
>Pine?  Redwood?  I may have to replace a section.

We always used pine in Georgia and Tennessee. Whatever is cheapest. I've
seen plywood used on rare occasion, but it's really not stiff enough.

>4.  painting: how well does latex paint adhere to the aluminum gutters?

If the gutters aren't prepainted, you need to paint them with a primer
especially designed for priming aluminum for latex paint. There are a
variety on the market. If they are pre-painted, you will be able to put
a good latex enamel right over it. I did the gutters of one house back
in 1981. When I drove by the house in 1990 they still looked good. I don't
recall the brand of paint, but that's fairly long life for house paint.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | "Better" is the enemy of "Good enough".
                    |                     Russian proverb.
                    |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: kerl@cmack.b11.ingr.com (Dan Kerl)
Subject: HVAC equipment selection
Organization: Intergraph Corp.
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 17:41:10 GMT

I'm in the process of choosing an HVAC subcontractor to install the heating/
air-conditioning system in our new residence.  We've narrowed the choices down
to two firms.  Both firms appear to be qualified to do the work, and are
competitive in price.  I'm interested in some feedback on the reliability of
two brands of equipment, which will probably drive the decision one way or the
other.

Type of system:

Natural Gas Heat,  Electric Cooling,  2 Zones:

1 - 3 to 3 1/2 ton cooling/100000 BTU heating unit ("gas-pack")

1 - 1 1/2 ton cooling/50000 BTU heating split system

Brands:

Carrier,  Lennox

If anyone has experiences (good or bad) with these brands, I would appreciate
hearing about it.   Thanks !
						Dan Kerl
						kerl@cmack.b11.ingr.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: vln@icpsr.umich.edu (Victoria Neff)
Subject: Re: Advice needed on ovens and ranges
Organization: Inter-University Consortium for Political and Social Research
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 20:18:15 GMT

In article <1992Aug19.151836.19820@starbase.trincoll.edu> nmiller@starbase.trincoll.edu (norman miller) writes:
>We're about to install a new kitchen and are faced with
>a number of decisions about wall ovens, to wit:
>
>Brand names (even model numbers if available) are also
>earnestly solicited.
>

Do not, repeat DO NOT, buy a range from Sears.  We bought their top-of-the-line
gas range about 6 years ago (rated by Consumers' Reports as easy to adjust), 
and we hate the thing.  You can easily turn it down so far that the flame goes
out but the gas is not off.  Sometimes it flames MORE when you turn it down.
ARGH.

You can't try these in the store, so you have to trust someone.  We trusted
Consumers' Reports (as we were already suspicious of Sears).  Wrong.

Ah well.

Good luck.  I'll be interested to see which ones people actually like (not
that we'll be tossing our $750 range any time soon, more's the pity).
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: killoran@ll.mit.edu (Mike Killoran)
Subject: Re: Robotic Lawnmower?
Originator: killoran@ll.mit.edu (Mike Killoran)
Reply-To: killoran@ll.mit.edu (Mike Killoran)
Organization: group_102
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 92 18:17:25 GMT

	Radio Electronics did a story about how to build one of these
about a year or two ago.  I could get the exact issue if anyone is 
interested.

	It worked by having a human cut the perimeter of the lawn by 
hand (not literally!), and then the robot would follow the border
of cut/uncut grass in circles.  Eventually it would do the whole
lawn in a giant spiral shape.  This certainly seems smarter than
going off in random directions.


Mike Killoran
killoran@ll.mit.edu
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: akarpowicz@mta.ca (Adam Karpowicz)
Subject: Re: Masking tape residue
Reply-To: akarpowicz@mta.ca
Organization: Mount Allison U, Sackville, N.B. Canada 
Distribution: usa
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 1992 00:25:17 GMT

In article <1992Aug14.183239.24056@informix.com>, davek@informix.com (David Kosenko) writes:
>Ok, so paint me foolish.  When redoing my living room, I covered the
>floor with pastic tarp and used masking tape to tape it to the hardwood
>floor.  The redo took longer than originally anticipated (so what else
>is new ;-).  When I finally finished and pulled up the plastic, the masking
>tape stuck to the floor, and left a lot of sticky residue.
>
>My question is: is there anything short of tons of elbow grease and soapy
>water that can get this gunk off without destroying the floor's finish?
>The floor is stained oak with a light poly coat.
>

Try to rub some ordinary vegetable oil on it and wipe off. If that will
not work, wipe off with some paint thinner, but watch the poly finish!!
Good luck
Adam

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: tln@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (teresa.l.green)
Subject: Fiberglass vs. Asphalt
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 21:50:04 GMT

Not to generate controversy just commentary...

I spoke with a friend of mine who works in residential
construction.  He has not heard very good things about the sealing
aspect of fiberglass shingles from the builders he works with.  
The main problem seems to be that fiberglass shingles do not seal 
as well as asphalt.  This seems to make the fiberglass shingles more 
susceptible to wind damage and curling.

This is the only difference he commented on.  Does anyone else have
comments on weight, fire rating, tear strength, flexibility(for ridge caps,
lining valleys, etc), or wind resistance differences?

					Teresa
From: erickson@atlas.cs.nps.navy.mil (David Erickson)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Water softener inquiry
Date: 12 Aug 92 20:27:37 GMT
Reply-To: erickson@taurus.cs.nps.navy.mil (David Erickson)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey CA

|> I would like information on water softeners; recommendations or horror storie
s. This is for new construction on municipal well with 22 grains/gallon hardness

I am interested in the same question with one addendum: what environmental
damage will a softener do if the brine discharges into a septic system?

We have poor pecolation, so our septic system consists of four 55'
deep bore holes plus septic tank.  I'm leary about pumping the salt
effluent from the softener into this system.  My only other alternative
is to dump it on the ground.  For the time being, we are having
recharged cylinders delivered every other week, and it is not cheap.

Dave Erickson
From: jeq@i88.isc.com (Jonathan E. Quist)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Demolition Derby!
Summary: How to knock down a wall.
Date: 20 Aug 92 15:55:36 GMT
Article-I.D.: i88.1992Aug20.155536.23213
Organization: INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation, Naperville, IL


We're starting a bit of remodelling, the first bit of which is to
reconfigure a closet walling off one end of a bedroom.  Now that I've
started pounding holes in the drywall where we want to remove it, I'm
wondering if there are any tricks of the trade to make it easier.
The walls I'm removing are each about 2-3 feet long, and have odd
stud spacings.  On top of all that, the studs were glued (looks a bit
like Liquid Nails) before the drywall was put up.

The problem so far is that, while I can easily break up the drywall, removing
it from the studs so I can remove the studs themselves is difficult because
of the glue.

Any suggestions?  Or is this just one of those dirty jobs that require
patience and time?

(Oh, and before anyone panics, no, this is _not_ a load-bearing wall. :')
-- 
Jonathan E. Quist                              INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation
jeq@i88.isc.com  '71 CL450-K4 "Gleep", DoD #094        Naperville, IL
George Bush claims to have neglected domestic issues in favor of foreign policy.
    Looking at Iraqi civilians, I'm glad we didn't have his full attention.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: erickson@taurus.cs.nps.navy.mil (David Erickson)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Marble in shower
Date: 18 Aug 92 19:57:56 GMT
Reply-To: erickson@cs.nps.navy.mil (David Erickson)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey CA

In article <1992Aug17.181243.13586@cbfsb.cb.att.com> heon@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (garry.j.heon) writes:


>If you want to clean the stains then go to your local pool store and
>buy a gallon of acid.  The acid in the pool store has the iron removed,
>hence no stain.  Mix it about 3 to 1, wipe on rinse off.  Just be careful
>though it's not a dangerous as you might think.


Muriatic acid will turn the grout white.  Go to a tile store and buy some
DeOx, which is acidic and which will remove stains without changing
the color of the grout.

Dave Erickson
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,misc.consumers
From: msb@tyler ( Mark Blumhardt)
Subject: Re: Back up after contract
Organization: U S WEST Advanced Technologies
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 17:46:34 GMT

You have two reasonable means to get out.

First, ask to get out.  We let a couple out of a contract to buy
our house.  We felt that if they weren't highly motivated, they
would find some way to get out down the road.  This would
cost us much more than the earnest money.  Since this was early
in the contract, we just let them out and gave their money back.

Second, when you get your title documents, you normally have
5 days to review them.  A lot of contracts state that you can
terminate the contract if the title conditions are not satisfactory.
Examples might be exeptions due to "local taxing districts", 
"oil & gas leases", etc.  Any exception on the title document could
could let you get out of the contract.  Ask your lawyer about this 
clause in the contract.

Mark
From: ems@michael.apple.com (E. Michael Smith)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Fluorescent lights - electronic ballasts
Date: 12 Aug 92 04:39:56 GMT
Organization: Apple Computer Inc, Cupertino, CA

In article <1992Aug9.175507.28860@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com writes:
>In article <1992Aug8.084048.28008@michael.apple.com> ems@michael.apple.com (E. Michael Smith) writes:
>
><Lots of good stuff on EBs>

Thanks!

>Question - how about secondary heat production? I made the mistake of putting
>some inexpensive lights in my garage/workshop. After installing them, I
>discovered that the area around the ballasts rapidly gets too hot to touch,
>and the room temp gets over 90 degrees in a hurry when the lights are on.
>While this is sort of nice in winter, it's a royal pain in summer. I would
>assume that a more efficient ballast would be cooler?

Yes.

Next question?

Remember that a fluorescent will still be cooler than the incandecent
it replaced...  If you wan't cooler ballasts, get better ballast, with
higher efficiencies and power factors closer to 1 (the latter should have
only a marginal effect, since it should be reflected in the efficiency
already...).

I suppose you could locate the ballast remotely too ... but that could
be a real mess ...


-- 

E. Michael Smith  ems@apple.COM

'Whatever you can do, or dream you can, begin it.  Boldness has
 genius, power and magic in it.'  -  Goethe

I am not responsible nor is anyone else.  Everything is disclaimed.
From: dfavor@logan.tivoli.com (David Favor)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: The Mortgage Company from Hell
Date: 12 Aug 92 13:31:58 GMT

sounds like your emotions have gotten the best of you... consider that you
have had unsatisfactory results from being rational. it may be time for plan
B. here's what I do when I want to de-sleaze a company such as you describe.

call several attorneys in your area and describe your situation. talk to the
attorneys staff. many times you will find someone that will take on your case
for free, or low dollars. usually what the attorneys's firm will do is make
the same calls you would, ask the same questions you would, only they'll take
names as they go. then they will start sending very clear letters such as,

Dear Mortgage-Company-From-Hell-Flunkey,

I realize your superiors have directed you to screw your clients, however,
I doubt that you would like to go to jail for your superiors so why don't
you just do what I want and may client and I will go away.

if you decide not to do what I want I will request your presence in court
at which time you will be required to explain your actions and why you are
chosing to violate the law. now we don't expect to win a case like this,
however, we will keep requiring your presence, your peers presence and the
presence of every other employee, officer and director of your company in
court for as many days as it takes to resolve this issue.

we realize that your company is in business to serve their clients. we
feel it would be in all your clients best interests if your company's
staff was allowed to go to work every day instead of be in court every day.

feel free to bring this memo to your superior's attention, as he/she may not
receive their copy and we would hate for a court summons to be their first
indication that there is a problem. this situation may cause you problems
continuing your employment or gaining promotions.

                  have a nice day,
                  We Will Rock You Law Firm
                  Jack HammerYourHead

-----

my point here is that when you want medical or dental work done you don't do
it yourself. consider the time and money you have spent thus far... consider
the time and money you will spend in the future... if the cost is unacceptable
hire an attorney to 'deal with it'.

use the money you save to buy a mailing list of the Mortgage company's client
and send out letters describing their activities. who knows maybe you can 
participate in a class action suit!!! :-)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Cost per square for tear-off
From: gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 92 21:44:17 CDT
Organization: Garys' Home for Obsolete Computers

jeffz@cray.com (Jeff Zais) writes:
  [ about his roofing job ]
> Kevin normally puts on "20 year" shingles, but a roofer we know convinced 
> us that the "25 year" shingles are better (but he said to make sure that 
> you go by the weight of the shingle, and not just the year rating - ours 
> are about 240 pounds/square, where the "20 year" are typically 
> 225 pounds/square).  Owens-Corning didn't have 25 year shingles in asphalt, 
> so we ended up with Fiberglass shingles, which I hope will be OK.

Heck yeah! Fiberglass is lighter weight than asphalt, and more durable.
Your 240 lb shingles are probably twice as thick as the 225 lb asphalt
ones; they'll give you a much better roof.

The fact that O-C doesn't have 25 year shingles in asphalt should give
you a hint about the relative durability. I'd pick Fiberglass in any
case over asphalt.

Gary Heston, at home....
gary@cdthq.uucp
From: jeq@i88.isc.com (Jonathan E. Quist)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Advice needed on ovens and ranges
Date: 20 Aug 92 15:24:36 GMT
Article-I.D.: i88.1992Aug20.152436.22236
Distribution: usa
Organization: INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation, Naperville, IL

In article <1992Aug19.184403.14073@ryn.mro4.dec.com> abbott@priory.enet.dec.com (Robert Abbott) writes:
>
>In article <MACRAKIS.92Aug19130740@next4.osf.org>, macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis) writes...
>I was recently told that home gas ovens have more temperature
>fluctuation than home electric ovens.

This is generally true.

Also, since they are vented (whether inside or outside), they are
less energy efficient than electric ovens.  Understand, I am not
saying they will cost more to operate, just that more heat is wasted.
The uneven heating is mainly from air currents in the oven.  Since
electric ovens don't have the same amount of air flowing, there are less
air currents, and hence they heat more evenly.

Now, since we're thinking of replacing our gas range with one having a
double oven, does anyone know of ranges with electric ovens and gas
cooktops?   :')
-- 
Jonathan E. Quist                              INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation
jeq@i88.isc.com  '71 CL450-K4 "Gleep", DoD #094        Naperville, IL
George Bush claims to have neglected domestic issues in favor of foreign policy.
    Looking at Iraqi civilians, I'm glad we didn't have his full attention.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis)
Subject: Re: Renovators Supply
Organization: OSF Research Institute
	<1992Aug17.152459.5226@porthos.cc.bellcore.com>
	<MACRAKIS.92Aug17164455@next4.osf.org>
	<1992Aug19.110102.11226@cbnews.cb.att.com>
Distribution: na
Date: 19 Aug 92 12:23:33

In article <1992Aug19.110102.11226@cbnews.cb.att.com> trb@cbnews.cb.att.com (tom.balent) writes:

   May I suggest that if you can find a place that salvages old houses you
   look there for your hardware.

I agree entirely!  In Boston, the best-known is Old Bostonian in
Dorchester.

	-s
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Putting a Fence in Asphalt
Date: 15 Aug 92 04:39:30 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <1992Aug14.172449.26505@alw.nih.gov> sullivan@alw.nih.gov (Jim Sullivan) writes:
>I have a large driveway that widens at the bottom into my 
>backyard.  I'd like to put a fence about 4 feet onto the driveway
>and also have some kind of curb where the fence is.  I plan
>to then fill in a few inches of dirt on the yard side of the 
>new fence (i.e on top of asphalt) and plant grass.  

[Jim lists four different ways of installing the fence post.  All
with screws in some way.]

Asphalt is softer than you think.  It has a fair bit of compression
strength, but virtually no tensile strength.  Anything with any
leverage at all (such as a fence post on an anchor plate) that is
fastened by screws is going to pull out the the asphalt in no time at
all.  Especially since, at most, you only have a few inches of
asphalt.

The only thing that would begin to be feasible as a screw would
be those large "coil-spring" like things, but they'll be virtually
impossible to drive into asphalt.  And wouldn't be rigid enough in the
long run anyways.

Secondly, pouring concrete or laying blocks on asphalt isn't going
to work too well.  First, the asphalt will sag.  And secondly,
frost heave will probably break it.  Unless you use those 6 foot
"curb" stones they use in parking lots.  If you used big and wide
ones, plus recessed some bolts into them, you could probably get away
with bolting fence posts on anchor plates to it.  But I think that
would move around too much, and the thing would look quite unsightly..

I personally think you have one of two choices:
    - dig a hole out for each fence post, and dig it down three
      feet (frost heave recommendation in NJ?), then install
      fence posts in the normal fashion.  With, or without concrete.
      For a curb, you could lay a 6x6 (or bigger) hunk of lumber
      along the ground against the posts.
    - dig a trench down a foot or so, and pour the curb, with recessed
      bolts for the fence brackets.

Digging a hole in asphalt is pretty easy if you have a pick-axe.
Easier than some soil I've encountered...

One final possibility, and I don't know whether it would work, would
be to use those metal fence "spikes", and just pound 'em thru the
asphalt.  Getting them vertical would be the hard part.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house