From: david@eos.ncsu.edu (JOSEPH WAYNE DAVID)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: [A]  Perf. Mods, Case History
Date: 8 Jan 93 16:21:50 GMT
Article-I.D.: ncsu.1993Jan8.162150.21801
Reply-To: david@eos.ncsu.edu (JOSEPH WAYNE DAVID)
Organization: North Carolina State University, Project Eos
Originator: david@c30003-2410br.mae.ncsu.edu


Keywords: 

Just a brief article to share some of my experiences with air cooled 
VW performance mods. I should point out that I like to tinker with
bugs and do all of my machine work myself, thus saving much money.
I also am not trying to "toot my own horn" but simply share some of my
experiences. Most of the information I have found useful over the years
has come from Gene Berg in Orange, CA.

For the last five years, I have had a '72 bug with the engine described below:

	2180cc (92mm x 82mm), counterweighted crank, balanced assembly
	Ported and polished big valve cylinder heads (40mm x 35.5 mm)
	0.385 in. lift, 310 deg. duration cam (256 deg duration @ 0.050 lift)
	1.5:1 ratio rocker arms with dual valve springs
	Lightened flywheel with 2300 lb Kennedy clutch plate
	Dual Weber 44mm IDF carbs
	Large tube (1 5/8 in.) drag race exhaust system with dual mufflers
	Comp. ratio of about 8:1
	Bosch 009 dist.

This engine makes driving my bug a great deal of fun to say the least. 
I regularly turn the engine to 7,200 rpm. I also do power shifts occasionally,
but do not do drag race starts as I do not have the appropriate flywheel or 
transmission to do this. I have installed Gene Berg's transmission  and 
engine mount and they seem to help. The cooling system is STOCK with the 
addition of an external filter.

Problems:

	It seems that most aftermarket piston rings are cast iron. By 
	leaning out the fuel/air mixture and advancing the timing, I was
	improving the performance but the increased temperature caused the
	rings to loose their tension and it started pumping oil at
	15,000 mi. Replaced rings, richened mixture, reduced timing advance
	and no problems in another 25,000 mi.

	Valve guides are a problem. Due to the high valve lift and strong
	springs, exhaust guides only last about 25,000 mi. I am currently
	working on what I hope are some solutions.

Cruising on the highway at 70 mph, I get about 25 mpg. The oil temp. cruising
at 70 mph is a consistant 120 deg. F above ambient. I think the low compression
ratio is the key here. I advanced the cam timing a little and thus I have good
idle quality at about 1,000 rpm. I also use 92 octane gas EXCLUSIVELY. 

I recenly disassembled the engine and found the case and internals to be in
very good condition. Very little case or bearing wear. The cylinders were out
of round, probably a result of the thin-wall 92mm design. Next engine, I will 
follow Berg's advice and use the thick-wall 90.5mm design.


I hope you find this useful. If you have any questions or comments, please feel 
free to drop me a note.

Joe


From:	IN%"BRENNAN@COCO.CCHS.SU.OZ.AU" 10-JAN-1993 19:51:09.08
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CC:	
Subj:	Engine mods

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Date: 11 Jan 1993 14:50:24 +1100 (EST)
From: BRENNAN@COCO.CCHS.SU.OZ.AU (Luke Brennan)
Subject: Engine mods
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>From: 8635660@nessie.cc.wwu.edu (Jay Lonner)
>Subject:Engine mods

>Hello,

	G'day..

>I have a '68 Bug that's really in pretty good shape.  I'm thinking of tweaking
>the engine a little and I wonder what you residents of netland advise.

	uhuh.. 'tweak' eh? :-)

>Let me note right off the bat that I am not interested in boring/stroking the
>engine, nor do I want to create a hot-rod.  I am interested in improving the
>engine in all respects, longevity included.

	okay.. 

>With that in mind, let me list some of the modifications that I am
>considering...
>
>1) Dual port heads, ported and polished

	Good.

>2) New carb(s) (I don't know much about the pros and cons of dual carbs,
>   someone want to fill me in?)

	hmm.. depends on *what* you want to do..
	for a stocker, maybe a Holley Bugspray would be simpler/easier..
	(you CAN go off and play with Webers, but it's not *really*
	 something I'd consider for a stocker..)

	Personally, I'd leave this to some later time...
	(i.e. YOU have to think about it! :-))


>3) "Doghouse" fan and shroud

	hmm.. yeah.. but then again, why not toss the crankcase and
	get a later one with dual-reliefs, bigger cooler..
	Okay, okay.. first up, get a doghouse! :-)

>4) Remote oil cooler

	GREAT idea - but where are you going to mount it?
	For a stocker... hmmm..  personally I'd leave it off..
	just get a deep sump for starters.. much neater - all that
	plumbing.. :-} (we mount our oil-cooler about the vents, with our
	oil-filter mounted inside the back-seat wall, with the oil-lines
	coming through the firewall..)

>5) Get the crankshaft balanced (I'm not sure what this is either, but a local
>   VW guru told me it was a good idea to increase longevity and reduce
>   vibration, &c.)

	This is **THE** best suggestion you've come up with so far..
	for a long-life motor (of *ANY* description) this is a **MUST**..
	Whatever else you do, make sure you get THIS part done!
	(this has to include the rods, though! Don't think you can just
	 have the crank by itself - crank & rods are a single unit when
	 it comes to balancing..)
	I'd use std VW rods rather than anything exotic..
	(You aren't going to be spinning 8000rpm? :-})

>6) Free flow exhaust (but one the keeps the heater boxes!)

	yep.. my street car sounds like your proposed car! :-)

>7) 009 distributor

	debatable.. I'd put one on if I wanted to 'wake up' the motor
	a bit, but it all comes back to 'how stock is stock?'..
	Okay, okay.. put it on! :-)

>Now, which of these mods are a good idea, and which are dumb?  I don't live in
>state that has emissions standards, but at the same time I don't want to drive
>the Greenhouse Effect.

	:-) Okay, here's my $0.05 worth.. (they phased out $0.02c here.. :-))

	a decent case (*late* Type-I is best)
	dual-port heads (with port & polish)
	balanced crankshaft
	HYDRAULIC lifters.. (hey it's a street stocker after all)
	dual 44 Webers
	decent exhaust
	009 Bosch distributor..
	deep sump. (this is an easy and GOOD addition)

	this will give you a driveable and livable engine..
	5000rpm would be my limit on this, but it *should* last quite a while.
	(and still be driveable by your mother/whoever)

	I really wouldn't go crazy.. this is *fine* for a street stocker
	daily driver..
	(my engine is reasonably close to this (though includes a few other
	 things for a bit more pep..) and I go to 6000rpm with NO problems
	 every single day of its life..)
	Yes.. 5000 will see your motor last years and years..

	of course.. if you want POWER then we'll have to spend some money..
	(I can give you a large shopping list ... we spent $5000 on our
	 KILLER 2.3l motor...)


>Also, what can I expect to pay for parts and a machinist's time?

	I could only give you $AUS, so that'd be silly..

	though Hot VW's & Dune Buggies lists DEMELLO counter-weighted cranks
	as starting at $109.95.. (which is pretty good)..
	I guess a decent crank & rods would go for $180 -> $500 (US)
	based on their listings... (depending on how wild you were!)

	exhausts seem to be around $50-100..
	a 009 (here) is $80-90, but USA... (turns page..) $50 !!!! *huff* !!
	sumps.. ah.. here's one.. $40
	a Dog-House shroud would be about $50.
	
        I suggest you zip out and get the latest HOT VW's & Dune Buggies..
	(the one here at work is from November..)


>Lastly, what books might I want to buy?  I already have Muir and Bentley's.

	oh! Well done. They're definately your two first on the shopping
	list.
	hmm.. what else is useful? What about that (I think it's HP)
	"Hot Rod VW engines" (I think it's a yellow cover)..
	probably not *really* necessary, but it'd give you some tips..

	I'll leave the rest for your enjoyment! (I reckon discovering all
	this info is most of the fun!)

	I hope I've been of some help..

	ldcb
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+ Luke Brennan                             e-mail:      brennan@cchs.su.oz.AU +
+ EDP Unit, S209                          brennan%cchs.su.oz.au@cunyvm.BITNET +
+ Cumberland College of Health Sciences,                              ,-_|\   +
+ The University of Sydney                  voice: +61 2 646 6402    /     \  +
+ East Street, Lidcombe, NSW 2141             fax: +61 2 646 4853    \_,-._*  +
+ AUSTRALIA                                                               v   +
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From:	IN%"BRENNAN@COCO.CCHS.SU.OZ.AU" 11-JAN-1993 16:02:37.08
To:	IN%"8635660@NESSIE.CC.WWU.EDU"
CC:	
Subj:	RE: Engine mods

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Date: 12 Jan 1993 11:01:56 +1100 (EST)
From: BRENNAN@COCO.CCHS.SU.OZ.AU (Luke Brennan)
Subject: RE: Engine mods
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	G'day!

> All right! Thanks for the detailed reply!

	no worries - we have an endless stream of VW's in my neck of the 
	woods - we KNOW what it's like!

> Lots of people agree with getting the bottom end balanced, which I would love
> to do if I weren't operating under such restricted cashflow.  Since this engine
> was rebuilt maybe 30,000 miles ago, and since I'm not losing any oil to speak
> of, I've been thinking of not doing anything to the bottom end at all WHICH I
> KNOW IS A BAD IDEA!!!!! but I've got a budget to consider.  What's really

	Well... if you're gunna do *any* kind of motor (regardless of how
	hard it's gunna go) make sure that in future you ALWAYS get
	the thing balanced.. It is THE surest way of feeling better about
	a motor.. (and they spin easy, last longer, etc, etc)

> bothering me about this car right now is the carb, it's a 30PICT2 and until it
> warms up it hesitates and gives me all kinds of grief.  (In addition, in the
> winter the oil in the air cleaner gets real viscous and gummy making it tougher
> for the engine to breathe well, I'm getting about 17 MPG right now (sorry,
> don't know what that is in liters per km)).  So the mods that I am considering
> at the present time are mostly based on wanting to replace this carb and
> increase the flow of air through the engine.

	right.. let me think... Paulie grabbed my '76 carb and used that -
	with major improvement!
	I can't for the life of me remember what it was (it was standard)
	as they snaffled it the moment I brought the '76 home!
	17mpg?? yeuk! Should be HEAPS better than that...

	I'd expect mid 20's... (unless you're fighting bumper-to-bumper
	all day...)


> Now it doesn't seem that there's much point in putting on a decent 2-barrel
> without adding dual-port heads &c., hence that mod.  And a free-flow exhaust is
> the next logical step in improving engine aspiration.

	yes. I'd do the 3 together...

> So my relative poverty means that for the time being I'd be adding a new carb,
> new heads, a new exhaust, and maybe something like an external oil filter.  I
> know that it is a BAD BAD BAD idea not to deal with the bottom end, but is it
> such a bad idea that I should blow off the whole project in its entirety?

	Noo.. do those changes - and then start saving for a new
	(late model) case and go from there with another motor..
	It's easier to keep buying the bits when your existing motor
	isn't driving you up the wall! :-)

	In no time flat you'll have 044 heads, Okrasa crank, Porsche rods :-)

	Luke
+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+
+ Luke Brennan                             e-mail:      brennan@cchs.su.oz.AU +
+ EDP Unit, S209                          brennan%cchs.su.oz.au@cunyvm.BITNET +
+ Cumberland College of Health Sciences,                              ,-_|\   +
+ The University of Sydney                  voice: +61 2 646 6402    /     \  +
+ East Street, Lidcombe, NSW 2141             fax: +61 2 646 4853    \_,-._*  +
+ AUSTRALIA                                                               v   +
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From:	IN%"DARIS_B1@verifone.com"  "DARIS BOUTHILLIER, CUST SUP SNA, 714 434-2045" 12-JAN-1993 08:24:48.28
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Subject: Engine mods
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>From: 8635660@nessie.cc.wwu.edu (Jay Lonner)
>Subject:Engine mods
>Date: 6 Jan 93 18:34:00 GMT
>Message-ID:<6JAN199310345747@nessie.cc.wwu.edu>

>Hello,
>
>I have a '68 Bug that's really in pretty good shape.  I'm thinking of tweaking
>the engine a little and I wonder what you residents of netland advise.
>
>Let me note right off the bat that I am not interested in boring/stroking the
>engine, nor do I want to create a hot-rod.  I am interested in improving the
>engine in all respects, longevity included.
>
>With that in mind, let me list some of the modifications that I am
>considering...
>
>1) Dual port heads, ported and polished

Dual port heads are an inexpensive way to gain a bit more horsepower.
Porting and polishing aren't going worth the cost on a near stock size
motor.  Check the 041, factory big valve heads, and the 1.25 to 1 rocker
arms out.

>2) New carb(s) (I don't know much about the pros and cons of dual carbs,
>   someone want to fill me in?)

Dual carbs can give you a decent horsepower gain with a few disadvantages.

	1.  They need to be kept syncronized.  This makes tuneups harder.

	2.  They're not legal in some states and the federal government
            is considering federal smog laws which might make them illegal
	    in all states, soon.

        3.  When you install them, the carbs must be jetted for your
	    engine.  Any engine mods, require rejetting.  It's not too
	    hard, but if you don't have a $100 jet reamer set, you have
	    to keep exchanging jets until you get it right.

	4.  Some carb kit's linkage suck.  I prefer the linkage (and
	    carbs) in the Delorotto kit.

>3) "Doghouse" fan and shroud

The single be modification you can make for your car.  Get the pieces
from a junkyard.  These parts were standard on 71 and later engines.

>4) Remote oil cooler

Forget it.  An poorly located cooler will actuall raise engine temps.
Also, the more connections you have, the better chance of leaks you
can have.  Most VW gurus agree the the doghouse system is the best.

>5) Get the crankshaft balanced (I'm not sure what this is either, but a local
>   VW guru told me it was a good idea to increase longevity and reduce
>   vibration, &c.)

An good idea.  If you can aford a little extra, check out a counterweighted
crank.

>6) Free flow exhaust (but one the keeps the heater boxes!)

If approached in the right manner, a free flow exhaust will help.  Here
are some things to consider:

	1.  Buy a quality AMERICAN MADE system.  The budget "import"
	    can actually MORE restrictive than a stock muffler.

	2.  Single mufflers give you better "off the line" response,
	    while dual mufflers are slower "off the line" but run
	    better at highway/freeway speeds.

>7) 009 distributor

Again, pros and cons.  The 009 gives you faster acceleration but
you give up smoothness a certian points of the acceleration curve.
>
>Now, which of these mods are a good idea, and which are dumb?  I don't live in
>state that has emissions standards, but at the same time I don't want to drive
>the Greenhouse Effect.
>
One modification you missed (with regards to the Greenhouse effect) in an
electronic ignition.  Electronic ignitions boost your coil output and
greatly reduce emissions.

>Also, what can I expect to pay for parts and a machinist's time?
>
Pobably what ever your local market will bear.

>Lastly, what books might I want to buy?  I already have Muir and Bentley's.

Personally, those are the only two books I that I ever use, and the more
experience I get the less I use Muir's book.  Some of the things I've
read in Muir's book scared the hell out of me (i.e. read the crankshaft
gear installation procedure, yikes!).
>
>I know that this is a lot of questions, but I want to get as much information
>as possible before committing myself (and my beloved Bug) to drastic action.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Jay Lonner
>Bellingham, WA
>
>nosig

Hope this helps,
   Daris Bouthillier, VeriFone Inc., Costa Mesa., CA.