HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: grande@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (brad.l.grande)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Masking tape residue
Date: 20 Aug 92 18:17:11 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T


I always keep a small can of old fashion lighter fluid around.  It works
great on tape residues, tar splatters on the car, etc. and it is cheap to.

Brad Grande	WB0OYX
Another bike riding beer brewing kite flying amateur radio operator who
	still likes CD's!

AT&T Bell Labs
Naperville Illinausea
PLEASE SEND RESPONSES TO:	grande@iwtil.att.com
att!iwtil!grande
(708)-979-7853
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: pngai@adobe.com (Phil Ngai)
Subject: Re: Flourescent bulbs in standard fixtures
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 01:46:06 GMT

In article <4100744@hpcc01.corp.hp.com> brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks) writes:
>Lights of America makes CF (oops; Compact Fluorescent) units, though I
>have no first hand experience with them.  Word on the net has been
>favorable.
>
>Given my druthers, I'll use OSRAM where they fit, and for applications

LOA and OSRAM both make units with good color, fast startup, and no
flicker.  I give LOA a slight edge because they have a replaceable bulb
so you can reuse the electronic ballast while for OSRAM, the entire
unit is disposable. I have had 8 LOA in my house for 2 years without
failures.  I also have a couple of OSRAM with equally good results.

>where you can take advantage of the CF nature.  You should not turn them
>on and off quickly, so they aren't ideal for a closet that gets used
>for seconds.

I don't know if this is really that big a problem. I suspect that you
might reduce the life from 10,000 hours to 8,000 hours (or so) if you
short cycle the unit but in the meantime you'd still save a lot of
electricity. The lamp costs much less than the energy.


-- 
My opinions are my own.
A right delayed is a right denied.
From: maw2@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (MICHELE A. WHITE)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Pigeon Repellent  ???
Date: 19 Aug 92 12:48:56 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University



I am looking for a way to get rid of pigeons who have taken a liking to our
brick window sills.  The sills are getting pretty dirty and they aren't afraid
of my cats.  Any suggestions?  (One of them even has a bread wrapper twister
and a message attached to his leg!)

-- 


Michele White - Lehigh University Computing Center - (maw2@lehigh.edu)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: tmkk@uiuc.edu (Khan)
Subject: Re: Shooting wild pigs
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 18:10:41 GMT


In article <1992Aug18.155205.8672@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie) writes:
>In article <1992Aug18.003922.10051@michael.apple.com> ems@michael.apple.com (E. Michael Smith) writes:
>
>>I'd go for a compound bow rather than a crossbow just for the 
>>second shot capability... I've had a pig charge me, I'd not want
>>the experience with an empty crossbow ... 
>
>You could do what the Italians did in the 15th century. Use three crossbows
>and two loaders for the archer. Swap bows for the second shot.

Or just shoot the pig from the branches of a nice tall tree, or from the
driver's seat of a '73 Chrysler. ;-)
From: johne@vcd.hp.com (John Eaton)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Green Tree group for Home insurance - READ THIS
Date: 19 Aug 92 17:08:28 GMT
Article-I.D.: vcd.Bt8qA5.F6I
Distribution: usa
Organization: Hewlett-Packard VCD
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5

Phil Ngai (pngai@adobe.com) wrote:
: In article <l92sk9INNf8a@exodus.Eng.Sun.COM> srivatsa@karna.Eng.Sun.COM writes:
: >In article 18506@fid.morgan.com, joec@fid.morgan.com (Joe Collins) writes:
: >>For me, instead of paying about $500/yr, I would pay about
: >>$4800 once and then thats about it. And when I sell, I get my
: >>money back.
: >>
: >Same as investing the money and paying the premium with the returns.
: >
: >Seems like ~10% annual return to me...  Is that good?
: 
: What are the tax consequences? If it's non-taxable, it would be
: equivalent to perhaps 15% for me.
--------------------------------------
First of all $500 a year for Homeowners insurance? Mine was less than half
that.

If you invest the money and earn interest and then pay your insurance premium
the IRS will tax what you earn and again what they receive. They of course
can deduct their business expenses from that. If they can finaggle a way to
invest the money for you and only pay taxes on the income minus the business
expenses then it is only taxed once.

This is similar to how life insurance works. You give them money, they invest
it and use the proceeds to pay your insurance premium. 

I would make sure that the IRS has blessed this particular concept and make
sure you don't forfeit your money if you submit a claim. Also check some
other companies for their quotes. If you can get the same coverage for $200
then put the money in a 5% CD and pay the taxes. Insurance companies are not
FDIC insured.

John Eaton
!hp-vcd!johne
From: tholland@pars.skidmore.edu (Anthony Holland)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Propane Co. makes offer...a deal or a trap ?  ADVICE WANTED
Keywords: propane
Date: 13 Aug 92 01:26:58 GMT
Organization: Skidmore College, Saratoga Springs NY

We are working with a builder, finalizing details to have a home built,  
part of the deal is having the whole house run on propane gas.  Simply  
put, it was MUCH cheaper than any other form of energy etc..

A "new" gas co. in the area: "Amerigas" wants into this new development,  
so they are offering me the following deal:

Free installation of a 1,000 gallon UNDERGROUND propane tank, free use of  
the tank for 8 years, at which time the ownership of the tank goes with  
the "landowner" of the house (I guess that wording is in case I sell the  
house later).  Normally, these underground tanks (of that size) cost about  
$1,800.  There's a buyout figure (to get out of the contract prior to the  
8 year time span described below...and own the tank) of $2500. 

 My obligations: I must buy propane from this company for 8 years at the  
following rates per gallon (in sequence of years):

898
934
971
1.009
1.049
1.091
1.134
1.179

PLUS, I MUST BUY a minimum of 1,000 gallons of propane per year for gthe 8  
years.  Total cost about $8,246 (don't have my calculator handy).

THE QUESTION:  IS TWO PART:  My new house is going to be 1,344 Sq. ft.
	I am going to have all gas appliances: range, house heat,
	water heater, and clothes dryer.  Will I be able to use
	1,000 gallons of propane in 1 year (northeast....Saratoga
	Springs, NY ....just north of Albany, NY, so we do get some
	severe winter weather), or am I throwing my money away by
	being forced to buy gallons I can't even store ?

PART TWO: is this a good deal ?  I'm really intent on having the tank
	buried, if at all possible, but I don't want to have to
	come up with an extra $2k at closing for the gas co.

SUGGESTIONS ? 

Many thanks for any advice/experience.

Anthony Holland
Skidmore College
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,rec.pets
From: sasjaa@morticia.unx.sas.com (James Adams)
Subject: Re: Need Advice: Flea Problem !!!!
Originator: sasjaa@morticia.unx.sas.com
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 13:32:20 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: SAS Institute Inc.


Around here(RTP NC), there are several firms which use crushed opals.
Apparently this powder gets sprinked every where. It is small enough to get
under the scales of the flea, cut it, and the flea dies of dehydration. All
you have to do is vacumn a lot for a while after this stuff has been spread.
Friends used this technique and haven't have a problem in three years. No
pesticide!

-- 
+-------------------------------------+-------------------------------------+
|James Adams                          |  I am going as a Homicidal Maniac.  |
|  sasjaa@unx.sas.com                 |  They look like anybody else.       |
|                                     |        Wednesday Addams             |
+-------------------------------------+-------------------------------------+
From: lp@well.sf.ca.us (Lily Pond)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: windows
Date: 18 Aug 92 21:52:42 GMT
Organization: Whole Earth 'Lectronic Link


What should I get??! Wood, Aluminum, Vinyl???!!!

P.S. Don't think I can afford wood.

Does vinyl emit noxious gasses?

Thank you.
From: markus@zephyr.hc.ti.com (Markus Richardson)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Home owners Insurance -- Farmers versus Allstate
Date: 19 Aug 92 20:18:48 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Texas Instruments

bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds) writes:

>Before you can get the umbrella policy you've got to have your regular  
>policies limits maxed out. You can't have a $50,000 policy and add the $1  
>million umbrella for $120 - you've first got to increase your regular 
>policy's coverage to its limit (usually to $500,000), which is quite 
>expensive to do.

Not quite so.  Umbrella liability policies do state minimum requirements
for the underlying policies (auto, home, etc.), but the amount is not 
"maxed out" as you suggest.  Of course, this may vary from state to
state, and carrier to carrier :-)  

My $1 million umbrella stipulates that I carry at least $300K on auto 
and home.  And for three cars and one home it costs me $92 per year.  Not 
bad, especially when I was able to drop the personal injury protection 
from my auto policies (saved $36) since I have health insurance and my 
umbrella covers all passengers except my immediate family.

BTW, currently my home, auto, and umbrella policies are thru State Farm.

Markus R.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Mushrooms in lawn
Keywords: Mushrooms in lawn
From: gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston)
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 92 12:37:25 CDT
Organization: Garys' Home for Obsolete Computers

dalessio@rtsg.mot.com (Mario D'Alessio) writes:

> My lawn has patches of mushrooms growing in it.
> What can I do to get rid of them. Thanks.

Find out if they're an edible variety, and if so, have them in
for dinner. 

Otherwise, don't worry; they'll go away in a week or so. If they
bother you, just mow over the patches.

Gary Heston, at home....
gary@cdthq.uucp
From: newlin@hpfcdc.fc.hp.com (Doug Newlin)
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 22:36:01 GMT
Subject: Re: help with neighborhood dogs
Organization: HP Fort Collins, Co.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house

Although I didn't read the original post, here's a solution that
really works:

Get a spray bottle that will project a single stream for some distance.
Fill the bottle with a 60-40 mixture of household ammonia and water
(don't make it 100% ammonia or it might injure the dog's eyes).
When the dog trespasses, squirt him down good.  The immediate effect
is that the dog goes into paroxysms and tries to escape from this
painfully noxious (to him) smell.  Soon, he will associate this
nasal assault with your yard and won't come near it.

It's just a matter of avoidance conditioning.
From: abbott@priory.enet.dec.com (Robert Abbott)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Advice needed on ovens and ranges
Date: 19 Aug 92 18:41:50 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation - Marlboro, MA


In article <MACRAKIS.92Aug19130740@next4.osf.org>, macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis) writes...
>In article <1992Aug19.151836.19820@starbase.trincoll.edu> nmiller@starbase.trincoll.edu (norman miller) writes:
> 
>   We're about to install a new kitchen and are faced with a number of
>   decisions about wall ovens, to wit:
> 
>   electric vs. gas
> 
>Although I'm a staunch believer in gas cook tops, I don't know of any
>particular advantage of gas over electric for ranges, and they do
>require plumbing and venting, which is probably more trouble than
>running a new electric circuit (if needed).
> 

I was recently told that home gas ovens have more temperature
fluctuation than home electric ovens.

Commerical gas ovens solve this problem by adding mass to the oven
walls. The mass evens out the temperature fluctuation. The downside
is that they take longer to preheat and longer to cool off. Also
they will dump a lot more heat into your kitchen.

Any truth to the above?


------------------------
Robert K. Abbott
abbott@tay1.dec.com
From: Krzysztof@netxsys.guild.org (Krzysztof Adamski)
Subject: Re: Splitting a circuit
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Date: 17 Aug 92 11:39:54 EDT
Organization: NetX Systems Inc.

From article <1992Aug13.181350.8055@donner.SanDiego.NCR.COM>, by davel@booboo.SanDiego.NCR.COM (David Lord):
> In article <jmcging.713646675@ssa.gov> jmcging@oss724.ssa.gov writes:
>>We've just installed a built in microwave over the range (replaced the
>>hood over the range) and ran into a problem.  The house is 23 years old
>>and has 150 amp service.  I have breaker space available.  Problem is
>>that running the microwave for any extended periond pops the breaker,
>>unless we turn off all the lights on that circuit <g>.  [Dinner by candle
>>light]
>>
> have a bunch of lights and stuff on that circuit. Your microwave
> probably draws up to about 800 watts. Replacing two 100 watt bulbs

On my microwave the label indicates 1.7kW input much more then 800 watts.
Based on Canadian Electrical code microwave should be on a dedicated circuit.

Krzysztof
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: jfw@jfwhome.FUNHOUSE.COM (John F. Woods)
Subject: Re: Telephone Outlets
Organization: Misanthropes-R-Us
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 12:58:25 GMT

In <16b23rINNn8@sixgun.East.Sun.COM> egreen@East.Sun.COM (Ed Green - Pixel Cruncher) writes:
>Anybody snooping on my cordless is going to hear a lot of really boring
>(to anybody but me) chit chat about my niece, and an occasional Chinese
>food order.  BFD.

And if you just can't be convinced of the value of simple privacy, consider
that anyone snooping on your cordless phone may also find out when you're
about to leave the house for a while, and cash in on the opportunity.  To
a few people, scanners are an investment.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis)
Subject: Re: Code for Minimum Window Height?
Organization: OSF Research Institute
Distribution: usa
Date: 20 Aug 92 10:55:15

In article <1992Aug19.133029.15538@cbfsb.cb.att.com> tln@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (teresa.l.green) writes:

   I am adding a shed dormer to enlarge an attic room.... I've tried
   to call the building inspector for over a week and he doesn't
   return my calls....  My project is scheduled to start this Sat....

Well, have you applied for a building permit?  Did you submit clear
enough plans (they don't have to be architect-quality, but they do
have to allow the inspector to understand what you're planning).  If
not, you shouldn't start.  If you have a contractor, s/he should have
done this a while ago.

As for getting hold of the inspector, note that inspectors spend a lot
of time on the road.  Ask his/her office when s/he is in, and go down
there physically at that time.  Around here, there is usually a small
crowd of contractors hanging out waiting to talk to the inspector.

Don't start the project without the building permit.  A dormer almost
certainly requires one.  Our building permit fell off the window for
_one_ day, and an inspector knocked on the door because he couldn't
see it!

	-s
From: mlei@mona.jpl.nasa.gov (Mary Lei)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: non-toxic termite treatment
Date: 14 Aug 92 15:18:14 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: jpl

Can anyone tell me about his/her experience with treating termites
 with microwave rather than fumigation?.  I am looking for a non-toxic 
way to deal with termites. Please email me mlei@gina.jpl.nasa.gov. 
Thanks.
From: larrabee@cse.ucsc.edu (Tracy Larrabee)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Dryers: gas vs. electric
Date: 14 Aug 92 00:24:45 GMT
Organization: University of California, Santa Cruz (CE/CIS Boards)
NNTP-Posting-Host: arapaho.ucsc.edu

In article <JON.92Aug12162328@destin.dazixco.ingr.com> jon@ingr.com writes:
>
>I have just purchased a house in Colorado, and will need to purchase a
>dryer.  I have looked around at several stores, and have found none of
>those yellow energy usage stickers on any dryers.  Hence my quest.
>
>What are the trade offs of gas vs. electric dryer?

I don't really understand this, but I promise that I heard on the radio
(KCBS in San Francisco) that a gas dryer puts out about 1/4 of the
"greenhouse gasses" when it does a load of laundry than an electric 
dryer does. 

The guy who does "Earth Minute" or whatever said we could do more to
fight the greenhouse effect by switching to gas dryers than we could
be most other single acts (except commuting by bicyle).

I don't know why this is so; I have no idea why it should be so: I only
report what I heard.
--
Tracy Larrabee		larrabee@cse.ucsc.edu
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: wae@aero.org (William A. Emanuelsen)
Subject: Re: Shooting, Poisoning, Cruelty
Summary: : -)
Organization: The Aerospace Corporation, El Segundo, CA
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 20:52:30 GMT

In article <1992Aug17.194426.9926@CERIS.Purdue.EDU> jheath@CERIS.Purdue.EDU (Jim Heath) writes:
>From article <CARL.92Aug16162956@atlantis.Cayman.COM>, by carl@Cayman.COM (Carl Heinzl):
>> 
>>>Here's a man who has probably never been burglarized
>>>or mugged.
>> 
>>>Some of us are just tired of the assholes winning
>>>all the time.
>> 
>> Hmmm, reminds me of an old saying...
>> 
>> "A liberal is just a conservative who hasn't been mugged yet"
>> 
>> Please forgive me if I've badly butchered the saying but the idea is
>> clear.
>>
>
>The way I remember hearing it was "A conservative is a liberal
>who has just been mugged"
>
>There was also "A liberal is a conservative who has just been
>endicted." 

A mugger is a liberal who has just met a conservative?

-- 
William A. Emanuelsen    "You'll never get famous by repeating what
wae@aerospace.aero.org      other people say." -- Bartlett's Mom.
From: jheath@CERIS.Purdue.EDU (Jim Heath)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Killing burglars.
Date: 17 Aug 92 19:55:42 GMT
Organization: Center for Environmental and Regulatory Information Systems, Purdue University

From article <Bt4vz6.CAE@fmsrl7.srl.ford.com>, by wreck@fmsrl7.srl.ford.com (R. Cage):
> In <1992Aug14.181611.23008@informix.com> davek@informix.com (David Kosenko) writes:
>>Sorry, but this doesn't wash.  First of all, we have the concept of
>>guilty until proven innocent, generally by a jury of your peers.  Thus
>>if someone breaks a law, it is up to the system to find them guilty.
>>Someone breaking into your house *still* has the right to due
>>process under the law.
> 
> That only applies when they are brought into court and charged
> with a crime by the state, David.  A criminal does not have a
> right to due process before force is used against them to halt
> a crime in progress.  The difference is that, in a courtroom,
> there is not a crime in progress.
> 
> Would you tell a woman not to use deadly force to stop a rapist
> because there is no death penalty for rape in her state?
>

It is my understanding that Methodists and Presbyterians say
precisely that, at least their national councils do. 
-- 
"Land of song, said the warrior bard,           Jim Heath
Though all the world betrays thee.
One sword, at least, thy rights shall guard, (The Minstrel Boy)
One faithful harp will praise thee."         (Thomas Moore)
From: rogerv@sco.COM (Roger Vortman)
Subject: Re: Back up after contract
Organization: The Santa Cruz Operation, Inc.
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 19:19:13 GMT


>You have two reasonable means to get out.

>First, ask to get out.  We let a couple out of a contract to buy
>our house.  We felt that if they weren't highly motivated, they
>would find some way to get out down the road.  This would
>cost us much more than the earnest money.  Since this was early
>in the contract, we just let them out and gave their money back.

Keep in mind the "cold feet" syndrome, otherwise known as "buyer's
remorse".  Immediately after being bound by a contract, a lot of people
will have bad feelings and a knee-jerk reaction of "Let me out of
this".  Given a few days, though, they get over it and remember why
they are in the contract in the first place (they liked the house, and
felt the price agreed upon was okay).

What I am saying is that holding someone to a contract initially does not
necessarily mean that they will continue to try to get out of it.

-Roger
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Vehicle proximity censors in driveway
From: gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston)
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 92 12:30:17 CDT
Organization: Garys' Home for Obsolete Computers

johne@vcd.hp.com (John Eaton) writes:

> : 
> : Home Automation Laboratories at 1-800-HOME-LAB sells such a device premade.
> : I have no connection, etc. etc.
> : ___________________________________________________________________________
> Would such a device work on items smaller than a car? One very useful product
> might be a doormat with built in metal detector. It could detect if the perso
> standing outside had a gun or a knife and warn you.

No, it would detect whether or not they were carrying any significant
metal, including keys, coins, a beeper, a cellular phone, belt buckle,
zippers, a pacemaker, metal-rimmed glasses, or any number of
things. It would be *extremely* difficult and expensive to build a 
detector that would work reliably/vertically/accurately without 
frying the person standing on it. This is not a trivial task, here.

The ones you see in the airports use the persons' motion through
the field to help detect metal objects; this would be another problem
to overcome.

I suppose you could have a hoop that rose around them when they 
stepped on the mat....

Gary Heston, at home....
gary@cdthq.uucp
From: johnst@tekig6.PEN.TEK.COM (John F Stoops)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Refinishing shower pan
Keywords: shower pan, fiberglass, plastic
Date: 13 Aug 92 16:35:01 GMT
Distribution: usa

My wife wants to refinish the shower pan in our bathroom.  Our house was
built in 1966.  The bathroom has a tiled shower with a plastic or fiberglass
shower pan.  After 26 years of regular scouring off the usual scum that 
flourishes in showers & tubs, the pan is looking pretty dingy.  Does anybody
have any info on refinishing a plastic/fiberglass shower pan.  The Standard
Brands store had some epoxy paint for redoing tubs but it emphasized it was
not to be used on plastic or fiberglass.  Is this something that should be
left to professionals?  Any success or horror stories on this subject?



			 Thanks for your help.

			 John
From: nmrdb@vms.macc.wisc.edu (BEVERLY SEAVEY)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Asbestos tiles?
Date: 21 Aug 92 20:36:05 GMT
Organization: University of Wisconsin Academic Computing Center

In article <1992Aug21.142044.2160@vixvax.mgi.com>, mcnamara@vixvax.mgi.com writes...

> 
>	My house has older (50s) nylon tiles in the basement.  I have
>heard that some tiles from this time period had asbestos in them.
>If this is true, how would I check on these particular tiles?  Secondly,
We were able to test the tiles in our basement by sending a sample to the state
hygiene lab. Your state may have some similar facility - ours was actually 
listed under "asbestos" in the state directory, but I think I have seen
commercial testing labs also. Ours tested out at 3% the first time and 5%
the second time, using polarized light and then mass spectroscopy. We talked
with the lab and they said that removing the tile presented no hazard to
us if we kept it wet while doing so. The tiles are not fluffy like insulation.
So that is what we did. Another option that we were condisering was to
pour an inch of low density concrete to contain the tile and provide a softer,
non-jarring standing surface.