HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: david@wmms.UUCP (David R. Mayne)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: drum brakes
Date: 13 Sep 92 18:05:41 GMT
Article-I.D.: wmms.1992Sep13.180541.13116
Organization: University of Absurdity

In article <1992Sep11.161134.10077@news.cs.brandeis.edu> dkw@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (David Wittenberg) writes:
>
>I agree, but many tandem riders have two brake levers for three
>brakes.  Some put both rear brakes on one lever, others put both
>caliper brakes on both levers.  I haven't seen anyone with the rear
>drum and the front caliper on one lever, but I'm sure someone's crazy
>enough to do it.
>

Although this does not really have anything to do with tandems,
I once had my mountain bike rigged with one tandem brake lever
controlling both front and back brakes (front were deore xt cav's,
rear a seatstay mounted IRD rotary U-brake). Very hard to adjust,
and you had to have the cable tension set so that rear wheel would lock
down well before the front. Luckily, the IRD u-brake with it's rotary
cam and progressive action made it much easier to handle one lever for
both brakes. Overall, it worked pretty well, and I even did a couple
of moutain bike races with this set-up (seemed to go faster on downhills,
wonder why ?).So yeah, someone is crazy enough to do something like it.

The reason for doing this was tendenitus (sp) in two fingers of my left
hand kept me from using the front brake with a conventional setup.
After about 9 months of riding this way, the hand condition had improved,
and I went back to using two levers.

I would not recommend this set-up over the two lever approach.

-- 
David R. Mayne         1372 Normandy Dr. NE             Atlanta, GA 30306
david@wmms.UUCP        (404) 876-0943        ...!gatech!bagend!wmms!david
From: ross@mscf.med.upenn.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: HEADSETS - stack ht, diameter
Date: 8 Sep 92 14:54:18 GMT
Organization: Univ of Penn - Med School Computer Facility


	I need to replace the headset on my Specialized Hard Rock bicycle.
I've already overhauled the pedals, hubs, and bottom bracket so I'm not
going to stop now!  I'd like to get started but I have a few specific 
questions.

	- Ordering a new headset.  I would like to buy a decent sealed
bearing headset to replace the piece of crap headset that the bike came
equipped with.  I need to match the internal diameter of the head tube
and also the stack height.  Obviously I can't get one with a higher stack
height but what about a lower stack height.  Is filling the extra space with
washers acceptable.  What type of washers should be used?  I don't want to
take the step of cutting the fork.

	Are there any manuals that have specs for different bikes.  I've
got a Specialized Hardrock.  Isn't there someplace where I can find out
the internal diameter of the head tube and the stack height of the original
equipment headset.  Local bikes shops are ultra uncooperative on this one
(like I'm treading on some sacred ground - just bring in your bike and your
$$$$$$ seems to be their attitude - hey, I'd be willing to buy the part and
the tools from them).

	- Tools.  How many, what type of tools are needed to remove the old
headset.  I know I have to remove the stem (no problem) and then loosen the
locknut (headset wrench).  But for removing those fixed cups?  I saw two 
types of tools.  One looks like a chisel that you put up through the headset
and then knock out the cup from the back.  The other one looks like a 
"U" (but with square edges).  Are both of these tools needed or only one?
Since I'm trashing the headset that I'm removing, is there a less expensive
way of knocking it out (say with a screwdriver) or do you risk damage to the
bike with this method.

	- Installation.  Should I get that special tool that sits in the cup
which you then hit with a rubber mallet or is the method of putting a piece
of wood over the cup and then hitting it also ok.

	Any help would be very much appreciated.  Thanks.
-- 

			--- Andy Ross ---
                    University of Pennsylvania

                    ross@mscf.med.upenn.edu
From: truesdel@ics.uci.edu (R. Scott Truesdell)
Subject: Re: Chainrings
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Organization: University of California, Irvine
Date: 9 Sep 92 22:51:45 GMT
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech

In article <1992Sep9.180359.9185@math.utexas.edu>,
sedgwick@rene.ma.utexas.edu (Eric D. Sedgwick) wrote:
>
> I have this problem.  My chainrings are not spinning in a  plane.
> There is a slight wobble, noticeable on the large and middle
> chainrings.  As far as I can tell the chainrings are not bent.  (I
> have the same problem when I swapped in some other chainrings.)
>   what could the problem be ?

Is it more noticeable when you are pedaling hardest? You animal, you! Most
likely the spider is bent. (the five legs that radiate out from the bolt
hole to which the large and middle rings are attached) This is a real
common problem on mountain bikes -- don't know about road bikes. It is
especially common if the rider is more prone to hammering as opposed to
spinning and if the rider is heavy.

There is virtually no way to fix this short of buying a new crankset. The
cheaper hot forgings are more likely to yield than cold forged cranks but
machined cranks are a lot stronger.

  --scott (who will shortly surrender his old tired forged crankset for
           some nice CNC machined and polished cranks...)
From: whalen@starch.enet.dec.com (Rich Whalen)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Removing a frozen stem
Date: 9 Sep 92 14:27:38 GMT
Reply-To: whalen@starch.enet.dec.com (Rich Whalen)
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation, Shrewsbury, MA


In article <ADRIAN.92Sep9110131@percy.robots.ox.ac.uk>, adrian@robots.ox.ac.uk
(Adrian Cox) writes:
    :
    :
|>.  So far I've
|>thought of two possible approaches, and I'd like some comments or new
|>ideas for freeing it.  It's a fairly basic steel frame, but I'm still
|>nervous about both of these options.
|>
|>1> Use a blowtorch to heat up and expand the tubes, freeing the rust.
|>2> Hit it harder with a larger hammer.
|>
|>- Adrian
|>

I haven't tried this, but a co-worker says that he uses mecurichrome and
iodine to loosen rusted parts when he is working on his car.  You might
give it a try before getting out the heavy equipment.

------------------------------------------------------
Rich Whalen

You don't know where these bits have been!
From: jeff@is.s.u-tokyo.ac.jp (Jeff McAffer)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Do frames wear out?
Date: 5 Sep 92 08:41:40 GMT
Reply-To: jeff@is.s.u-tokyo.ac.jp
Distribution: rec
Organization: University of Tokyo, Good Times Department.


As sort of a follow on to the frame materials summary I would like to
know what people think about the following:

Do frames wear out?  
If so, how do you tell if your frame is worn out?
Is there a major difference in durability between CrMo, Carbon, Al?

--
atode, |m         -- "The class of Class is Class class which is a MetaClass."
                         how not to get a date using Smalltalk
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: doug@shako.Colorado.EDU (Doug McKnight)
Subject: Re: drum brakes
Reply-To: doug@shako.Colorado.EDU (Doug McKnight)
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 16:06:37 GMT

If "integral function" means that the two brakes are operated with one
control then I don't want it!

It is really important to have independent control of the brakes.

The drum brake on my tandem was only useful when the bike had steel rims
and poor braking in the wet. I could be wrong but i don't think drum brakes
are used very much on tandems now. Mine is 60 years old. 
Douglas
From: adr5@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu (Alex D Rodriguez)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: teeth on gears
Date: 15 Sep 92 22:47:06 GMT
Reply-To: adr5@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu (Alex D Rodriguez)
Organization: Columbia University

In article <1992Sep8.193014.29347@dartvax.dartmouth.edu> boz@coos.dartmouth.edu (John Boswell) writes:
>Hi,
>        I have a question about the teeth on normal freewheels and rear-
>wheels.  Last night after I washed the mud off my ~2 mo. old Trek 700 I
>lubricated the chain/ etc. for the first time (I know I should be doing
>that more often- but better late than never :).  I noticed that some
>of the teeth look like they have been worn down; they aren't as pointed
>as others on the gear.  I never examined the gears closely before this.
>I use the bike to commute to work 3 times a week (~25 miles round trip)
>during the week, and on weekends I take it on the trails of our local
>park system.  I haven't noticed any problem while riding.  I'm concerned,
>since I think 2 months is a short time for gears to wear down :}. 
Your bike has what Shimano calls Hyperglide gears.  The gears are not 
worn they are suppose to be that way.  The funny teeth make shifting while
under a heavy load possible.
-----------------
Alex Rodriguez
Columbia University
New York City
From: sutton@lamar.ColoState.EDU (Rich Sutton)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: AERO BARS
Keywords: AERO
Date: 11 Sep 92 18:48:20 GMT
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.marketplace
Organization: Colorado State University, Fort Collins, CO  80523

In article <1992Sep11.131953.21142@swlvx2.msd.ray.com> eak@swlrgz (EFTHYMIOS KIAFOULIS) writes:
>
>  I am trying to decide which set of Aero Bars to purchase and
>  have limited it to the new 92 Profile Aero II and Scott Lemond
>  bars.  If anyone owns or has used either of these bars, I
>  would really appreciate you comments !!!  Thank You !!!!
>
>
>                               Efthymi
>                               - The Greek God of Cycling


Followups directed to rec.bicycles.marketplace



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rec.bicycles.tech: Techniques of engineering, construction, maintenance
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
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Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: zerobeat@intacc.uucp (Ferenc Szabo)
Subject: Re: Specialized Self-sealing tube problem
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 01:09:27 GMT
Organization: Inter/Access' Matrix BBS

In article <jrh.715533872@mustang> jrh@mustang.dell.com (Randy Howard) writes:
>I think it's safe to say that unless Specialized changes the design on these
>tubes, I've bought my last one.  Besides, it appears that with the regular
>tubes and tuffies, you can ride for virtual 'forever' without a flat unless
>you hit a piece of dynamite.  I think the extra bit of weight is worth it
>in exchange for changing flats all the time.  
>
I have to say that buying Mr. Tuffies 6 years ago has been THE best 
investment ever for cycling.  The very slight gain in weight (how many
grams? or ounces for you Americans) is WAY more than made up for the
extreme infrequency of fixing flats.

In fact, the few flats I have gotten were from very obvious pieces of junk
in the road that destroyed my tire too.  When I did fix a couple of these
tire-destroying flats, the Mr. Tuffy added the needed structural support
to allow me to keep using the tire until I made it home (actually, I'm
such a cheapskate that I've ridden on extremely rotten tires for several
days held together by the Mr. Tuffy)

Comes in mountain and road bike sizes.

ferenc
From: ogus@gaulois.berkeley.edu (Arthur E. Ogus)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Ultegra Short Reach Brake Levers
Summary: They exist
Date: 5 Sep 92 23:55:28 GMT
Organization: U.C. Berkeley Math. Department.
NNTP-Posting-Host: gaulois.berkeley.edu

My wife has a Therry bike with Shimano 600 (ultegra?) short reach
levers.  
-- 
Arthur Ogus
Department of Mathematics
University of California
Berkeley, California
From: shiba@riffnique.csd.sgi.com (Richard Shiba)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: mtb: suntour microdrive cassette compatibility
Date: 10 Sep 92 22:38:47 GMT
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc.  Mountain View, CA

In <BuBCz5.KF6@acsu.buffalo.edu> camlau@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (**bj**) writes:
>
>	I also heard that suntour micro-drive
>cassettes will be offered as an 8 speed next year.  Can anyone confirm
>this?  Does anyone know what the configuration is going to be?

>**bj**  
>**always tinkering**

	Per Oct92 Mountain Biking mag, Suntour will go
	8 speed for '93 on it's top 3 gruppos...


	
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: jdu@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (john.d.unruh)
Subject: Re: Re: : Do frames wear out?
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 13:00:37 GMT

In article <45250001@hpmwgde2.sr.hp.com> budn@hpmwtd.sr.hp.com (Bud Noren) writes:
>MEDELMA@cms.cc.wayne.edu (Michael Edelman) writes:
>
>I have the more cynical view that they get new frames every year because
>the bike manufacturers want the pros to be seen on their latest, hottest,
>most expensive frames.  Same for the parts manufacturers.  Pro racing is
>an advertising showcase.
>
>-Bud

I expect that Bud has it partly right.  The other thing to remember is
that bikes that travel a lot take quite a beating.  Baggage handlers 
aren't always gentle.  Add to that the normal beating of racing
(crash damage, etc) and it might not be so easy to keep the bikes in
top shape and looking good for several years.  For them to be good
advertising, they have to look good.

John Unruh
From: fyhg8422@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Frederick Y Huang)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: MTB Bar Ends vs Scott Bars
Date: 14 Sep 92 17:57:48 GMT
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana

maarrrk@seidel.ucsb.edu (Mark Erickson) writes:

>Scott MTB handlebars (the ones with the integral bar ends, like
>the AT-3) appear to be much lighter than the combined weight
>of regular bars and bar ends.  

>Anybody have a good reason to go with regular bars/ends rather than
>the Scotts?

>--maarrrk

I don't know if this is a valid concern or not (I'm using Onza's on a Taperlite
bar).  But I know most standard handlebars have a bit of bend in them, whether
it's a 3, 5, etc. degree bend.  Do the Scott's have such a bend?  It seems
to me that if you like the bend in the bars, you're better off putting on
normal bar ends; first of all, so you can have the right amount of bend in the
bars, but also, if you tilt the Scott bars up or down so that the bar-ends 
are positioned to your liking, won't the bend in the handlebars be pointed
the wrong way?  I guess what I'm getting at is this:  I like my bar-ends to 
point about 20 degrees up from horizontal, and my bars with about a 3 degree
bend straight back.  I don't think this is possible on Scott bars.  If there
IS a bend in the Scott bars, wouldn't the bars bend slightly downward if the
barends were so positioned?  

Looking back on this, this must be the most confusing piece of writing I've
ever seen.  Hope you get what I'm trying to get across.

Fred
fyhg8422@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu 
 
bent slightly back, as I do
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: apuzzo@rintintin.Colorado.EDU (Tony Apuzzo)
Subject: Re: MTB Bar Ends vs Scott Bars
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 05:58:13 GMT

In article <truesdel-140992152838@aux-1.ics.uci.edu> truesdel@ics.uci.edu (R. Scott Truesdell) writes:
>Because of the relatively large radius from the 'flat' part of the Scott
>bar to the 'bar end' part of the Scott bar, one ends up with less useable
>width for a given overall width. When riding in the normal (non-bar-ends)
>position, your hands are going to be closer together, giving you less
>leverage to steer straight on rough terrain.
...
>  --scott (not the handlebar maker)

I had AT-4 pro bars on my last bike, and now have AT2LF bars on my new
bike.  The AT4's where definately klunky but were actually lighter than
my (1989 Giant Boulder's clublike) original Chromoly handle bars.

I never used the 'tuck' position much, so I went with the AT2LF's on my
new (Specialized S-Works Steel) bike.  Again, the 195g AT2's were
lighter than the S-Works' thin wall chromoly bar.  I got the 'mid'
width (22"?) and I have no problem with space, my ss-7 levers and
xc-pro thumbshifters need a bit less space than Shimano stuff though.
The AT2LF's are extremely light and seem strong so far.

IMHO a lightweight stem and AT2LF's are lighter, cheaper and stronger
than a Klein mission control with bar ends.

In case anyone cares, Bike Pro (1-800-BIKE-PRO) sells 'em for $67US

-Tony
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tomk@netcom.com (Thomas H. Kunich)
Subject: Re: drum brakes
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 92 23:23:07 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)

In article <1992Sep12.181828.7291@beaver.cs.washington.edu> pardo@cs.washington.edu (David Keppel) writes:
>
>The hydraulic rim brakes I've seen claims for -- Magura and Mathauser
>-- both, as I recall, claimed less weight than standard rim brakes.

I have seen and used the Maguras. THey are nice brakes, but they certainly
aren't lighter than light cantilevers. As I say, they are nice brakes
but they are sort of overkill.
>
>They do require seals, etc., but they have less friction and less
>elasticity, both of which contribute to a positive brake.  The pads
>move in a stright line with the Maguras, eliminating cantilever pad
>suck.

Good cantilevers require so little maintenance that that isn't 
an issue. Elasticity is almost always in the cantilever axles
and forks, so you cannot fix this with hydraulics.
From: glp7584@tamuts.tamu.edu (Gordon Lee Powell Jr)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Do frames wear out?
Date: 9 Sep 92 18:42:57 GMT
Organization: ~/lib/organization

In article <1992Sep9.164123.12501@news.cs.brandeis.edu> andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang) writes:
>>Hey neat.  One line.  Anyway.
>>Nobody has been able to measure any change in the modulus of elastiscity of
>>steel upto failure.  This was rehashed last week and every odd week before that
>What about "work hardening"?  Does it not apply to bicycling steels?

Yes, work hardening could apply to bicycling steels, but work hardening
still doesn't change the stiffness of the material.  Work hardening
can increase the yield stress of the steel, but not change the
modulus of elasticity.

Gordon L. Powell, Jr. '89            glp7584@zeus.tamu.edu (VMS on VAX 9000)
Aero Engr  Texas A&M Univ.           gordon@aero.tamu.edu (D. U. on S. C.)
Oh well, some people can flame in a nitrogen environment.--Les Earnest
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: greg@mariner.sce.carleton.ca (Greg Franks)
Subject: Hi-E hubs
Organization: Systems and Computer Engineering, Carleton University.
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 03:42:50 GMT

Greetings all.  I have a rear wheel with a rather funky Hi-E hub
(cartridge bearings, low flange on one side, hi flange on the other).
Unfortunately, it is spaced for 125mm.  Does anyone in net.land know
of where I might be able to find spacers for this beast.

Please email.

Thanks
  ..greg
--
Greg Franks   (613) 788-5726     Systems and Computer Engineering,
uunet!mitel!cunews!sce!greg      Carleton University,
greg@sce.carleton.ca             Ottawa, Ontario, Canada  K1S 5B6.
Overwhelm them with small bugs so they don't see the big ones.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: sedgwick@rene.ma.utexas.edu (Eric D. Sedgwick)
Subject: Chainrings
Summary: Chainring problem
Organization: University of Texas at Austin Mathematics
Distribution: rec
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 18:03:59 GMT

I have this problem.  My chainrings are not spinning in a  plane. 
There is a slight wobble, noticeable on the large and middle  
chainrings.  As far as I can tell the chainrings are not bent.  (I
have the same problem when I swapped in some other chainrings.)
  what could the problem be ?  bent axle (is this possible?) misaligned
bottom bracket (it is not loose) the crank is not mounting correctly
on the axle or something else ?  

thanks in advance for your help,
Eric Sedgwick
From: philg@zurich.ai.mit.edu (Philip Greenspun)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Am I too fat?
Date: 8 Sep 92 21:01:23 GMT
Reply-To: philg@martigny.ai.mit.edu
Organization: M.I.T. Artificial Intelligence Lab.


I broke the Brooks Gel Lite seat on my LL Bean Pathfinder (Really a
Raleigh Heat or something).  There is kind of a hump in the middle now
that catches me right in some painful spot.  Plus, the sides have
little bows out.  Is this normal for a 200 lb rider after 200 miles of
off-road use?  Am I staying on the saddle too much when going over
rocks?

By the way, when I called LL Bean at 10:30pm yesterday (a holiday
remember), they said "You big porker, do you think we build bikes for
rhinos?" ... actually they were incredibly polite and said they are
sending me a new seat today for free.

Philip Greenspun
MIT EECS
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: pauls@icecreambar.css.itd.umich.edu (Paul Southworth)
Subject: Re: Un-tightenable stem. Help prevent head butts.
Reply-To: pauls@umich.edu
Organization: University of Michigan
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 20:58:32 GMT

Doug McKnight writes
| I bought my Fiancee a Girvin Flex-stem for her MTB as a present.
| She fitted it, and I gave the expander bolt an extra tighten
| since I have stronger hands.
| 
| After about half a mile on a reasonably rough trail she crashed on a  
rocky
| drop-off and head-butted a tree! Fortunately there was no lasting damage  
to
| her, the bike or the tree. Nice present....
| 
| On examination it appeared that the stem was able to turn in the steerer  
tube
| far too easily. 
| 
| Tightening it _really_ hard didn't help. 
| Swapping the expander with two others didn't help.
| De-greasing the stem and greasing the sloping sliding surfaces on the
| stem didn't help.
| 
| It is the same size as the standard stem, it seems to have the same kind
| of expander. I've tightened stems on lots and lots of bikes and never  
had
| this problem. Help! Any suggestions welcome.

Pull the stem out and stick your finger down as far as the expanding wedge  
(if you can) in the steer tube.  Forks with long keyways can be burst by  
overtightening the wedge, since they have a weak area running down the  
tube.  If that's happened, it would explain an ever-loose stem.  If you  
can't feel a crack (it would probably close up a little after relieving  
the strain of the wedge) you might pull the fork out to check it if you  
were feeling industrious.

Other than that, you may have a defective stem that has a quill slightly  
too small, or the steer tube may have been reamed slightly too large.  
Organization: Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Date: Wed,  9 Sep 1992 13:58:16 -0400 
From: Sandi Alexander Kwee <sk1i+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: rear derraileur hangar broke

I have a friend whose rear derraileur hangar bent inwards (the frame is
a Gary Fisher aluminum). The guy at the bike shop just bent it back and
said that this happens all the time and that bending it back is all you
need to do to fix it. I thought that on aluminum frames, you couldn't
do that because once it is bent, the integrity of the bent part is lost.
He said that the rear hangar is made of a 'special alloy'. Does anyone
know what the real deal is?
Thanks,
Sandi
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech