HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: slk6p@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: wort chilling with ice cold water
Date: 26 Aug 92 23:15:27 MDT
Organization: Utah State University

In article <BtLMx5.GGE@wrs.com>, gak@wrs.com (Richard Stueven) writes:
> In article 4266@wet.UUCP, sbeitzel@wet.UUCP (Stephen Beitzel) writes:
>>In article <1992Aug24.203744.22413@terminator.cc.umich.edu> markg@itd.umich.edu writes:
>>>Is there anything wrong with chilling your wort by combining the hot
>>>concentrate [by adding very cold water]
>>
>>This is the way I cooled my first brew, and it turned out just fine.  One
>>caution, though, is that you should pour the cold into the hot, rather than
>>the other way around.
> 
> Not if you're using a glass fermenter.  There's a very good chance that
> your fermenter will crack when you pour the hot wort in.  If that
> happens, you won't have anything to pour the cold water in...
> 
*I think the thing to really watch for is running hot liquid down the SIDE of a
glass carboy that was previously cooled.  Or the reverse.  > ---
If the liquid has a chance to mix with liquid and equilibrate you're probably
ok.  I list a carboy (luckily no beer) by washin a carboy with HOT water, then
adding cold water, resulting in a long crack down it's length.  Just avoid the
drastic changes, and if you're going to mix temps-  do it liquid to liquid, and
avoid running it down the sides = glass-liquid.

> gak			Der Herr Buergermeister gibt bekannt, dass ab
> gak@wrs.com		Donnerstag Bier gebraut wird und deshalb ab
> attmail!gakhaus!gak	Mittwoch nicht mehr in den Bach geschissen
> 107/H/3&4		werden darf.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Subject: Re: god please don't flame me...
Organization: ddsw1.MCS.COM Contributor, Chicago, IL
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL3
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 14:59:37 GMT
X-Disclaimer:  Material posted in this article is the sole responsibility of
                the poster and does not represent MCSNet or the system owners.

alh@tekig1.PEN.TEK.COM (Al Hooton) writes:
: In article <1992Sep1.202606.13997@worldbank.org> aki@atlas.worldbank.org (aki) writes:
: >
: >I REALLY feel stupid for asking this question but..
: >just what _exactly_ is a carboy?  I noticed in
: >a previous post that someone mentioned they
: >bought a whole bunch of stuff from a local
: >homebrew shop for $44 including a carboy and
: >I've seen lots of discussions mentioning carboys.
: >Is this something I need?  Does it replace
: >bottles? Gawd I feel stupid...please don't
: >laugh at me..I'm new at all this...:-( ...
: >
: >-aki
: 
: Folks, look what the flaming of the last 6 months has done... some of the
: new people are really afraid of posting reasonable questions!  I don't
: post too often to this group, but this really made an impact on me.  PLEASE
: let's try to keep the signal/noise ration in r.c.b reasonable, and do all
: flaming in *private*!  Thanks.
 
Let's not lose sight of the fact that in spite of the trauma, terror and
fear, AKI did post as I suspect most people will.

To trash flamers and vociferous critics is not the cure to the problem.  Like
the poor, they (we) will always be with you.  The solution is for people to
recognize that flames do not really burn.  You have to take the good with the
bad, grin and bear it, turn the other cheek etc., ad nausiam.
From: betel@camelot.bradley.edu (Robert Crawford)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Question about time to bottle
Date: 4 Sep 92 19:28:33 GMT
Article-I.D.: camelot.betel.715634913
Organization: Bradley University


	I have a batch of stout that, based on time, should be well
ready for bottling. However, the S.G. is 1.052! It's been dormant for
over a week, and not even agitating has done anything more than free
the CO2 already in it. Is it done despite the high gravity? Or should
I do something to get it restarted?

	For reference, it's made up of a John Bull Stout kit and an
extra three pounds of dry malt.

--
	"Well, I'm home."
		- S. Gamgee

Robert Crawford 			betel@camelot.bradley.edu
From: hersh@expo.lcs.mit.edu (Jay Hersh)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Hops and philosophy
Date: 31 Aug 92 21:01:37 GMT
Organization: X Consortium, MIT Laboratory for Computer Science

In response to Mike Scrempps query...

yes my hands always get sticky and smell of hops when I pick mine..

I wait until they turn papery, and have yellowish powder at the base
of the flowers.

	JaH

--
Hopfen und Malz, Gott erhalts
From: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us (Joseph Nathan Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: "Relaxed" a little too much...
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 92 22:02:15 EDT
Organization: 5 Sigma Software
Reply-To: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us
X-Mailer: uAccess - Macintosh Release: 1.5v5


In article <1992Aug29.201034.12970@ultb.isc.rit.edu> (rec.crafts.brewing), wlt4326@ritvax.isc.rit.edu (William L.M. Trainor) writes:
) About 9 months ago, I brewed up a batch of larger, let it ferment, and then
) proceed to "larger" the racked beer down in the basement for the winter, with
) every intention to bottle in the spring...  Well...
) 
) It's still down there...

Whatever else has happened to it, it's almost certainly autolyzed
by now.  For normal strength beer stored at 55-65F on a medium thickness
layer of yeast in a secondary, autolysis seems to kick in a week or
two or four after the last of the secondary fermentation activity
dies down (4-8 weeks total).  Colder storage and/or stronger brews
mean longer autolysis times, of course.  And if you re-rack at the 1 month
point, and keep the beer cool to cold, it should keep for several moons in
the "tertiary."

If you haven't experienced autolyzed brew, just imagine a taste/odor
somewhere between Vegamite, dirty sock and hot tire in yer brew. 
A mild case tastes like you used some kind of really weird caramel
malt in the brew.  I doubt that most folks know what a stronger case
tastes like, at least not from personal experience.  (I don't.)

uunet!joebloe!joseph   (609) 273-8200 day   joseph%joebloe@uunet.uu.net
v   v  sssss | Certified Guru: all-grain brewing,| 2102 Ryan's Run East
 v v  s   s  | C, synthesizer comp & arranging,  | Rt 38 & 41
  v    sss   | photography. Also not a bad cook. | Maple Shade NJ 08052
-----My employer isn't paying for this, and my opinions are my own-----
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: gak@wrs.com (Richard Stueven)
Subject: Re: Why Don't Women Brew?
Reply-To: gak@wrs.com
Organization: Wind River Systems, Inc.
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 16:51:58 GMT

In article 17314@bmerh85.bnr.ca, cav@bnr.ca (Rick Cavasin) writes:
>The concept of the 'alewife' dates back to the middle ages.  Women brewed
>and sold ale, and sometimes ran ale-houses.  I suspect that the fish was
>named after these brewers.  And yes, it is lamentable that this tradition
>has been abandoned.

What, and let the women have all the fun?

---
gak			Der Herr Buergermeister gibt bekannt, dass ab
gak@wrs.com		Donnerstag Bier gebraut wird und deshalb ab
attmail!gakhaus!gak	Mittwoch nicht mehr in den Bach geschissen
107/H/3&4		werden darf.
From: bickham@lynx.msc.cornell.edu.UUCP (Scott Bickham,C17 Clark Hall,56079,2737038)
Subject: Re: Bottle Size & Foam
Originator: bickham@msc2.msc.cornell.edu
Organization: Cornell-Materials-Science-Center
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 17:36:54 GMT

From article <1992Sep4.162328.23770@meaddata.com>, by jacke@meaddata.com (Jack Eddington):
>  bickham@lynx.msc.cornell.edu.UUCP (Scott Bickham,C17 Clark Hall,56079,2737038)
> writes:
> 
>>I have to disagree.  If there is an equal amout of head space, the larger
>>bottle will carbonate faster because there are more fermentables to
>>produce alcohol and CO2.  My 16 oz. bottles are always carbonated sooner
>>than my 12 oz. bottles.
> 
> Although I've never tried different size bottles, I figure that shouldn't 
> stop me from putting my $0.02 in. I don't know who is correct as to 
> whether a larger bottle carbonates faster or slower than a smaller bottle,
> but I don't believe Scott's argument is valid. Yes there are more fermentables
> in a larger bottle, but there is also more liguid to absorb the CO2. Thus 
> the fact there are more fermentables does not argue for faster carbonation.
> I don't dispute your experience, just the reasoning you gave for it.

Sure it does.  The key in my argument in the *equal* volume of headspace.
For example, say 90% of the CO2 stays in solution and the rest goes into the
headspace (which started at a pressure of 1 atm.), then more molecules of
CO2 will go into the headspace of the larger bottle.  Since the two
volumes are equal, then the density of CO2 molecules = N/V will be greater in 
the headspace of the larger bottle.  The ideal gas equation, PV=NkT, then 
predicts a higher pressure in the larger bottle.

Scott
From: dinkel@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (Kent Dinkel)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 15:00:06 GMT
Subject: Re: Yet another newbie with questions
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing

>>Question #5:  My brew shop suggests adding priming sugar in each
>>bottle, but Charlie suggests batch priming by adding the sweetener in
>>a pail (I thought I could use my first stage fermenter) and siphoning
>>the wort into it.  The reasons I was given for the bottle method was
>>risk of oxidation of transferring the beer.  Should I be concerned?

Follow Charlie's advice.

I don't know anybody that adds priming sugar to the bottles (although there
must be some folks that do it).  I'm pretty lazy and adding priming sugar
to individual bottles seemed like a giant pain in the behind to me.
Therefore, I also siphon the beer from the fermenter into a pail with the
priming sugar.

>I put my priming syrup in
>the bottling bucket first, then carefully siphon the beer in there, getting
>a swirling action that mixes everything nicely.

Thanks for the idea of siphoning the beer into the pail which already
contains the *boiled* priming sugar solution.  I've been doing it backwards
all this time!

Kent "Why did I make the agreement with my wife that I'd finish remodeling
      the bathrooms before brewing another batch of beer?  I'm going to run
      out of homebrew soon and still not have finished bathrooms" Dinkel

dinkel@hpmtaa.lvld.hp.com

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: binkley@boulder.Colorado.EDU (Jon Binkley)
Subject: Re: Cl + Nh4 Makes ?
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: 31 Aug 92 23:51:48 GMT

akerson@deimos.srg.af.mil (Pete Akerson - akerson%srg@uunet.uucp) writes:



>My chemistry is almost as rusty as my (X) Fiat !

>what do these make ? (HCl gas ? Hmm that would be bad,
>but why wouldn't it stay in solution )
>Also, how does the by-product kill you ?

It releases chlorine gas (Cl2).  It's a neurotoxin, and was used
in WWI as part of the gas warfare that went on then.

Jon

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: malodah@pbhyf.PacBell.COM (Martin A. Lodahl)
Subject: Re: Proceedings from AHA 1992?
Reply-To: malodah@PacBell.COM (Martin A. Lodahl)
Organization: Pacific * Bell, San Ramon, CA
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 19:28:47 GMT

In article <1887ksINN5ao@agate.berkeley.edu> devine@olympus.CS.Berkeley.EDU (bob devine) writes:
>Has anyone received the AHA proceedings from this summer's conference
>that was held in Milwaukee?  I haven't and I was wondering if the
>reason was that they haven't been shipped yet or if it never reached
>me because of my recent move.

I haven't gotten mine yet, and I'm interested in seeing it for a variety
of reasons ;-).  My understanding (I have no idea where I got this) was
that they were to be released in October.  I sent in my proof corrections
the first week in August, if that's any indication.

-- 
= Martin A. Lodahl    [DoD, AHA, NRA]  Systems Analyst, Pacific*Bell =
= malodah@PacBell.COM		Sacramento, CA, USA     916.972.4821 =
= If it's good for ancient Druids, runnin' nekkid through the wuids, =
= Drinkin' strange fermented fluids, it's good enough for me!!  8-)} =
From: brewer@meltdown.chi.il.us (Mike Wilson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Why Don't Women Brew?
Date: 31 Aug 92 20:39:29 GMT
Organization: The Meltdown - A Team Star BBS

I don't think that promotion based on sex is all that great a thing in any
direction.  Promoting brewing to women simply because they are women doesn't
seem right, to me.  Promote it for everyone.

I think just the fact that we discuss such a thing is strange.  Hey, if women
don't want to drink/brew/have anything to do with beer, fine, that's their
problem.  If they do, that's fine, too.

NB:  I've known a few women in my life who brew and dozens who enjoy it.  Is it
really that big a deal?
Organization: Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Date: Wed,  2 Sep 1992 15:11:38 -0400 
From: Dino_P._Chiesa@transarc.com
Subject: Facts on Straub?


Does anyone out there know anything about the Straub Brewery in St.
Mary's, PA? 

I know only this:

Straub is a mini-brewery which has been owned for generations by the
same Straub family.  They brew quality stuff, only all-grain, no
budmilcoors additives.  But, it's not a yuppie commodity yet, and so
sells for roughly $11 per 24-16oz bottles in stores local to
Pittsburgh.

I understand that St. Mary's is a farming community, and that everyone
there knows the Straub people. Also, that Straub operates a 24hr
hospitality room, which is void of shiny marketing fluff, but which
includes the mythical "eternal tap".  The story is that the tap in
this modest room never dries up, and the room never closes.  All for
visiting friends of the brewery.  They ask only that you wash your
glass when you're finished. 

Anyone know more about the brew or the brewery?

-dpc
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: dickson@mbir.mnet.uswest.com (Steve Dickson)
Subject: Hops floaters smothering fermentation
Followup-To: rec.crafts.brewing
Organization: U S WEST Communications, Inc.
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 21:05:31 GMT


Last week i put up a batch of munich gold, which i hopped with some nice
fresh Eldorado Canyon wild hops. Two days later, and still no bubbling in
the lock. Hmm... my yeast  had _seemed_ to be alive enuf.. oh, well I'll
rehydrate another packet and pitch again. two more days later, still no
bubbles! I was on the verge of worry, so I relaxed, had several homebrews,
and slept on it.  In a dream, I heard the yeasties smothering. saturday,
still no bubles, I opened the bucket. nice large watterlogged hops were
floating all across the surface. Hmm... I sterilized my strainer, and
skimmed off a big wad of them, and up from below came a frothing. Put the
lid back on, and the lock began bubbling cheerfully!

I'm so much happier now, but still puzzled. Why would the blanket of hops 
hold in the co2 in like that ? I never used hops this fresh before --
should they have been dryed first ?  should I have shredded my hop flowers
before boiling them ? should i have strained before fermenting ?  And how
could the yeasties telepath into my dream from all the way in the pantry ?
Was it a collective yeast conciousness communicating thru my kidneys, or
what?

Prost......Steve
From: abirenbo@rigel.cel.scg.hac.com (Aaron Birenboim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Potassium Sorbate Q.
Date: 3 Sep 92 15:03:34 GMT
Organization: Hughes Aircraft Colorado Engineering Labs

In article <1992Sep03.025024.2567@wb9rxw.lonestar.org> gary@wb9rxw.lonestar.org (Gary Partain) writes:
>
>  I would like to stop fermentation of mead at about the
>3 week point.  Is potassium sorbate the right stuff for the job?

unfortunately no.  I believe Pot. Soribate only acts on dormant yeast.
I.E.  it kills only dormant yeast, or keeps doemant yeast from
re-acticvating.  (any u-biologists care to comment?)  The usual
method of use is to let a mead ferment dry (like S.G. 0.992),
add pot. sorobate, wait 1 hour, then sweeten to taste.

To stop an active fermentation you could pasturize (heat to
i dunno.... say 160F for 45 min, or pressure can it), or
filter.  My camping filter is rated at 1 or 2 micron.  This is
not bacteria grade, but i bet it would filter out yeast.  However,
it would plug my camping filter for sure.  I'm sure there
are some readers who filter beer regularly.... any comments?

>  Also, can it be boiled to sanitize it?

i don't know if this is really OK, but i have done it without
any problems (no re-fermentation).

In my personal experience I have only really liked higher alchahol meads
where they yeast was killed by alchahol poisoning. (sweet and still).
You need a lot of honey for good honey character, and sweetness
to enhance that character.  I find that carbonation somehow
detracts from the honey character, and is not to my liking.

--
Aaron Birenboim                                |I am just too tired to think
abirenbo%rigel.cel.scg.hac.com@hac2arpa.hac.com|of a good quote.
abirenbo@isis.cs.du.edu                        |    - ChickenHead
w (303) 344-6486                               |
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: peterm@dtc.hp.com (Sweet Pete)
Subject: Re: wort chilling with ice cold water
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 23:24:26 GMT
Organization: Where No Man Has Gone Before
Keywords: wort chilling

In article <1992Sep1.161954.6382@cbnews.cb.att.com> ddt@cbnews.cb.att.com (david.treat) writes:
>>
>I've used this method for several batches; it seems to work fine.
>Some oxidation probably occurs, but it's better than pouring the
>hot wort directly into the cold water in the fermentation vessel.

What's the oxidation problem.  Given that one should aerate the wort well
for primary fermentation does this mean that this aeration should be done
only on cooled wort, and not by pouring the hot wort in with lots of
splashing?

	Peter
-- 
Peter C. Maxwell,                      ARPA:   peterm@dtc.hp.com
Hewlett-Packard Company,
5301 Stevens Creek Blvd, MS 53U/36,    UUCP:   ..!hplabs!hpdtlpm!peterm
Santa Clara, CA 95052-8059             (408) 553 2512
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: pyle@intellistor.com (Norm Pyle)
Subject: Re: high sg soultions?
Organization: Intellistor, Longmont, CO
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 92 14:30:46 GMT

In article <1992Aug28.141420.716@mksol.dseg.ti.com> carruth@mksol.dseg.ti.com (matthew carruth) writes:
>If I have a batch that I want to bottle and the sg is too high, then can the 
>sg be lowered by adding distilled H2O?  Are there any side effects to
>this procedure?

This will "water-down" the beer, reducing the amount of fermentable sugar in
each bottle.  Yes, this will help but I'm not sure you want to do this,
unless making a "light" beer is your goal.  I would use patience and wait
until the FG is 1.015 or so.  Or bottle in 2 liter plastic soda bottles.

Actually, any bottle which is easily resealed will work (i.e. Grolsh, etc.).
As long as you keep on it, you can release pressure as necessary each day.

Norm
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: dickson@mbir.mnet.uswest.com (Steve Dickson)
Subject: Recant: Hops floaters smothering fermentation
Followup-To: rec.crafts.brewing
Organization: U S WEST Communications, Inc.
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 21:10:32 GMT

In article <dickson-310892143235@130.13.155.96>,
dickson@mbir.mnet.uswest.com (Steve Dickson) wrote:
> 
> 
> Last week i put up a batch of munich gold, which i hopped with some nice
> fresh Eldorado Canyon wild hops. Two days later, and still no bubbling in

[babbling deleted...]


Got some replys in the mail politely telling me I'm crazy to ferment
without straining. Why wouldn't you want your hops to stay in  (other than
the smothering thing)?? It's never hurt before with dried hops.  
Hmm.........

Noch ein Prost....  Steve
From: vlaad@brewich.hou.tx.us (Vlaad Thunarsson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: ROACHES!
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 92 02:20:08 CDT
Organization: The Brewer's Witch BBS, +1 713 272 7350, Brewich.Hou.TX.US

pcj1@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu (Pierre Jelenc) writes:

> In article <1992Aug27.170617.4336@midway.uchicago.edu> hasn@midway.uchicago.e
> >Hopefully in the next month or so I'll get my act together a brew my first 
> >batch.  One big question came to mind when I saw some rather nasty looking 
> >creatures in my kitchen last night.  Does beer in a carboy attract these 
> >critters?  Also should one fumigate when beer is brewing in the apartment?
> >Just to add a personal note:  I HATE ROACHES!  I put up those combat poison
> >stick ups but roaches are tough!  I HATE ROACHES!
> >Any other solutions for getting rid of roaches would help as well.
> >Thanks.
> 
> 
> Combat has worked pretty well on those tough New York roaches.
> 
> So far.
> 
> Pierre
> 
> Pierre Jelenc                        pcj1@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu 
>                                     Columbia University, New York

Boric acid spread all over the floor in the corners and cracks will eat 
away their legs.  This is an old old remedy.  Of course, there is always 
Diazinon...


------------------
vlaad@brewich.hou.tx.us (Vlaad Thunarsson)
(Alternate) vlaad%brewich@lobster.hou.tx.us
Origin: The Brewer's Witch BBS -- Houston, TX -- +1 713 272 7350
     "Silence is the voice of complicity" - Vote Early, Vote Often!
From: slndw@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: SG on double malting
Date: 1 Sep 92 15:38:11 MDT
Organization: Utah State University

In article <1992Sep1.191543.13016@worldbank.org>, aki <aki@atlas.worldbank.org> writes:
> 
> Being kinda new (I've only made about 5 batches of brew so far).
> I have a question.  I'm trying something new.  I just made a
> batch of brew using two cans of Muntons (sp?) dark amber ale 
> malt .vs. one can (I did not double the water content)
> I substituted powdered malt for the corn
> sugar and double yeasted the wort (e.g. I put Whitbread dry


How much spraymalt (the dried stuff) did you use??  Had you
been using several pounds of corn sugar??  If so and if you
doubled the total fermentable sugars, you will get a stronger brew 
or barley wine.
 
> yeast followed by wine yeast three days later).  I don't have
> the label from the can with me at work but if I remember
> correctly, the starting SG was around 1.40, and the final
> SG is supposed to be around 1.10 or so.  Question, because
> I double malted it, will the SG still drop to the recommended
> SG prior to racking?  

That depends if the yeast can survive the high alcohol.  If the
alcohol content is below that which will kill the yeast it should
get down to around 1.1.  If not, the yeast will die.  You could
try champaign yeast; they can tolerate more alcohol.


>Also because I double malted it, will
> my alcohol content be higher?  

The answer isn't yess, it is _HELL YES_!!!   More sugar =
more yeast food = more yeast byproducts (alcohol and CO2).

Any net wisdom you can
> provide would be greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> -Aki Damme              "I never met a dreer I couldn't brink..*hic*"
> Worldbank Wash D.C.
> (202) 458-1112



-toot
From: abirenbo@rigel.cel.scg.hac.com (Aaron Birenboim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: taste of Eldeberrie wine
Date: 26 Aug 92 15:11:30 GMT
Organization: Hughes Aircraft Colorado Engineering Labs


well...  i got my first 6 or so pounds of eldeberries in.
They have quite an assertive tartness.  Since I plan
to go the elderberry mead route, I would like to know
what acid they have the most of....  i will add no more
of that acid.  My bet is that they are high in tannic
or malic acid...  although a high concentration of citric
or ascorbic might be equally assertive.

  I plan to macerate and pulp-ferment them for about
a week, then strain/rack and top-off the fermenter with
honey must.  Yeast nutrient and acid amounts are yet to
be determined.
--
Aaron Birenboim                                |I am just too tired to think
abirenbo%rigel.cel.scg.hac.com@hac2arpa.hac.com|of a good quote.
abirenbo@isis.cs.du.edu                        |    - ChickenHead
w (303) 344-6486                               |
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing