HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: IEI036G@tjuvm.tju.edu (Mark F. Miller)
Subject: Re: Snake Mites
Organization: Thomas Jefferson University
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 03:11:13 GMT

In article <C18HvG.FAr@mentor.cc.purdue.edu>
thompssp@expert.cc.purdue.edu (Steven P. Thompson) writes:
 
>     I have 2 new Ball Pythons that have some sort of parasite.
>     I thought that they were snake mites, and treated them as such. But, now
>that I have read some more, I think that they were ticks.
>                                                     ~Steve
>
Wild-caught ball (royal) pythons usually come in with various internal and
external parasites. Ticks are generally larger and tend to reside with their
"head" buried under a scale. Mites are usually smaller and more mobile.
 
Did you remove all the ticks? Is the snake eating? Good weight to it?
 
         Regards,
                  Mark F. Miller                 FAX: 215-464-3561
               iei036g@tjuvm.tju.edu             CIS: 76702, 1127
         Herpetology Online Network (SysOp) -->  BBS: 215-698-1905
From: harrison@adobe.com (Harrison Page)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Help with my new Veiled Chameleon, anybody?
Date: 26 Jan 93 00:31:45 GMT
Followup-To: rec.pets.herp
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated, Mountain View, California

Hello..

I acquired a veiled chameleon (Chameleo Calyptratus, or Yemen 
Casque Head Chameleon) yesterday.  He is captive bred and one
month old.  Currently, his cage is heated at +/- 78 degrees with
two 50w SOW grow lights.  He has been eating crickets since he 
arrived and has a number of mealworms to eat also.  (I'm using a
formula called Osteo-Form, which adds calcium and phosphorus to
the crickets.)  He's fairly active and has been exploring the new 
cage.  Ribs aren't pronounced and his eyes are constantly darting
all over, which means to me that's he's feeling well.

de Vosjoli's books on chameleons don't mention veiled chameleons
at all.  Is there anybody here who has raised one?  Does the 
environment sound okay to you?  Any suggestions from those with
experience?

(The branches that I added to his cage were placed in the
freezer for two hours to get rid of potential mites.  I didn't
do anything to the houseplant, though.  hmm.)

Write if you'd like to share thoughts.  I could definitely use any
tips or insights.  Thanks,

  ..Harrison

--
Harrison Page (harrison@adobe.com)
Adobe Systems Incorporated, Mountain View, California
"Not satisified with being dead, they packed up and headed west."
From: ftit@engin.umich.edu (Sergej Roytman)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Anole Problem
Date: 28 Jan 1993 00:08:15 GMT
Organization: University of Michigan Engineering, Ann Arbor
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: yahara.engin.umich.edu

One of my anoles has what seems to be an eye infection.  His left eye is
swollen quite badly and he is losing weight.  This animal has had the
same problem before, but it went away after several weeks of daily
applications of a topical antibiotic ointment to his eyelids.  This time
it doesn't seem to be helping much.

I understand that swollen eyes can also be caused by vitamin deficiency,
but I don't think that that's the problem; the right eye is OK and my
other anole is doing fine.

Are eye infections at all common among captive reptiles, and if so, is
there some commercial eye drop or ointment that you could recommend?  I
saw something in the pet store for turtle eye infections.  Why the
distinction?  Would that help in my case?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

--
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
|  ftit@engin.umich.edu   |   "... a stainless steel rat in the       |
|    (Sergej Roytman)     |  ferroconcrete wainscoting of Internet"   |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Say no to four-line .sigs.
Organization: University of Illinois at Chicago
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 16:54:08 CST
From: Ed Dowtort <U10119@uicvm.uic.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: my iguana's tail.

i've recently noticed that the tip (3/4"-1") of my iguana's tail looked
a little funny/not well.  on closer inspection it looks as if he got bitten
on it, but he doesn't share his tank with any other creatures.  the 1/4" of
the very tip looks almost dried up, like it's about to fall off.  it's brown
and sort of looks like the scales were pointing out, not lying flat. further
up the tail there is a couple of indentations circling the tail and the area
is not smooth and uniform like it should be.   i only saw it up close for
short while, since i'm afraid to "handle" the tail.  (btw:  how easily and
in what circumstances to ig's lose their tails??)

i've read that snakes can have tails falling/dying off because of incomplete
sheddings.  can that be a case with the ig?  he sheds his back and base
of tail at the same time.  than the middle portion of the tail.  and i don't
recall his shedding the end 1/3 (1/4th?) of it ever.  i've had him ~6months.

i won't get a chance to take him to a vet till next week, so i was hoping
that i could get some advice from here.  i'll try putting some antibiotic
on the area in question.

ed d.
From: putz@parc.xerox.com (Steve Putz)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Questions Preparing for a Garter Snake
Keywords: garter snake
Date: 25 Jan 93 18:38:39 GMT
Article-I.D.: parc.1993Jan25.183839.11723
Organization: Xerox PARC

My 9 year old daughter Jennifer desperately wants a pet, and after much
discussion and some research at the library, she has decided she wants a
garter snake. I am impressed with how carefully she has read the books.

This weekend we built a wood terrarium (24" x 12" x 12") from vinyl-laminated
particle board.  It has a removable plexiglass front (slides up) and a sliding
top with large cut-outs securely covered with fiberglass shade screen.  We
are thinking of adding some ventilation holes in the side walls.  The floor
is covered with a removable piece of "imitation grass" carpet.  For a water
bowl there is a Pyrex glass bread pan.

We installed a light-bulb socket in one wall near the top. We tested it with
a 40 watt bulb for a while and the temperature near the floor was around
80 - 85 degrees (measured with one of those flat thermometers.  The 40 watt
bulb seems too bright and hot.  We have a 25 watt tubular aquarium light we
can try.  I was also thinking of adding a dimmer.

I am wondering how we can best heat the terrarium.  It a light bulb enough?
I have heard bad recommendations about "hot rocks" and good recommendations
about heating pads.  But heating pads only work with glass terrariums, right?

A local pet store has two kinds of garter snakes for sale: "Indonesian" ($20)
and "Red Headed" ($25).  Most were fairly small (1 foot).  My daughter wants
to get one of the Indonesian Garter snakes.  We are told they eat goldfish.
We have a small bowl suitable for keeping feeder fish.

With a North American species, I figured we could release it in the back yard
if for some reason we could not keep it.  I assume that is not advised for
these species?

Ok snake experts, are we ready to purchase a snake?  Any advice or comments
are welcome.

-- 
Steve Putz <putz@parc.xerox.com>
Xerox Palo Alto Research Center
Palo Alto, California
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: tmohler+@cs.cmu.edu (Tim Mohler)
Subject: Monitor Eats Shit
Organization: School of Computer Science, Carnegie Mellon
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 20:00:16 GMT


Hey guys...

My savannah monitor took his regular large dump the other day. I saw
it in the cage, but I was in a hurry, and figured I could clean it
up when I got home for good.

When I got home, the shit was gone. I assume Balzac ate it. For the
last couple days, he hasn't been looking too good - even for a
lizard. Generally lethargic, hasn't come out of his hide box since,
doesn't chase his mice like usual... looking under the weather.

Is there any ill effects to eating your own shit? Can I do
anything for him? Should I worry about this in the future?

Is this a monitor trait?

Thanks
Tim
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: aad@siemens.com (Anthony Datri)
Subject: Re: baby corn snake
Organization: Siemens Corporate Research, Princeton (Plainsboro), NJ
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1993 15:14:29 GMT

>My impression is that the definition of well-fed for a lot of herp owners 
>is "fed as often as will eat;  I prefer to see my animal grow without timelapse
>photos " :+).

I've read that this tends to result in a fatty snake and a decreased lifespan,
though.  The size of the food matters, too.  My Corn will pretty much eat
anything at any time, so I have to restrain myself from the urge to overfeed.
When a snake takes a meal eagerly, it's natural to think the poor guy's
starving, but of course it's natural when their prey is faster than they
are.  I fed my Corn pinkies/fuzzies every 3-4 days until she big enough
that I wasn't afraid that I'd hurt her when handling, then backed off.  She's
about 2' now, and I give her a small adult every week or so.

My recently-acquired 6.5' Burmese is going to be challenging in this regard.
-- 

======================================================================8--<
From: eabyrnes@vela.acs.oakland.edu (eabyrnes)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Magazine Info Needed
Date: 24 Jan 93 18:42:40 GMT
Article-I.D.: vela.1993Jan24.184240.26037
Organization: Oakland University, Rochester MI.

The other day I read a post that mentioned a reptile amphibian magazine. I
could really use the subscription information, including cost, address,
and telephone numbers. Thanks in advance.

Ed


-- 
*---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---*
|   Ed Byrnes   FAX:  313-651-7392           eabyrnes@vela.acs.oakland.edu  |
|   Kensington Academy & Oakland University     Rochester,MI North America  |
*---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---*
From: monet@carson.u.washington.edu (Diana Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: mites on snakes
Date: 25 Jan 1993 17:46:06 GMT
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: carson.u.washington.edu

I've been reading E mail info. on mites on snakes & I wonder, how do I
tell?  Does the skin get yucky or something?  I have a green vine
snake - I  
think that's what they're called - the little thin bright green ones.  Are
they suseptible  to mites? or any other health hazards I should be aware
of?  This one seems really healthy, but I just want to be on the lookout.
Thanks in advance for any info.
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: jgraham@bronze.ucs.indiana.edu (the End)
Subject: Re: Handling rats & Burmese
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 06:56:30 GMT


Your best bet is to switch her (big Burmese) to dead food. After a few years
of that she will reduce her instinctive agresiveness that is associated with
feeding.

Nancy (10 ft./4 yrs) has always taken thawed rats. An additional advantage, and
one that just didn't occur to me for a long time, is that she will also eat 
regular old Tyson(TM) chicken parts. Cheap and VERY reliable food. When 
asked, other readers will admit that their Burmese will eat all kinds of
items (fish, chops, ect.).

Keep that rotgut handy anyway :)

Jim
J. Graham
Biology and Chemistry Departments
Indiana University -Bloomington..........now at 9600 bds... YES !!.......
From: clayson@xenomorph.Eng.Sun.COM (Mathew Clayson)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Can igs overeat?
Date: 28 Jan 1993 22:35:24 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Distribution: world
Reply-To: clayson@xenomorph.Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: xenomorph

My wifes ig well eat untill he's a bloated sack. I think it's a bit  easier on him/her to feed twice a day instead of all at one time. He's gotten feceil(sp) blockage twice, 
but not scince we lowered his intake/hour. By the way, we gave him long warm baths to reduce his blockage. He loves to bathe so we give him a warm bath every few days now.


Mat Clayson


"If you can't buy something nice...don't buy nothin' at all." -ME-


Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: pholland@iastate.edu (Paul J Hollander)
Subject: Re: QUESTION 'BOUT RATS
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames, IA
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 17:25:23 GMT

In article <1993Jan22.015827.9602@leland.Stanford.EDU> drk@leland.Stanford.EDU (David Koehler) writes:
>In article <1993Jan21.032448.74257@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu> dhm1@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (DANIEL HILL MCCAULEY) writes:
>
>>    This is probably going to sound like a stupid question. Does the fresh
>>    blood of a rat or mouse etc... pose any threat to the human feeding it to
>>    his/her snake. (i.e. diseases , etc... spread from the rat to the human
>>    through the contact of each other's blood.) It seems to me to be very
>>    improbable but I am just making sure.  Thanks!
>
>I suppose rabies, plague, and Lyme disease are among the worst.  Don't know
>if rats can carry the last one, and plague and Lyme are spread by the ticks 
>on the mammal, not the blood per se.  Not too much risk with captive-bred 
>rodents I would imagine.

I also think there is little risk with captive bred rodents.  However, rubber
gloves, like for dish washing, cost only a buck or three in the stores.  If 
that would make you feel safer, go for it.

Paul Hollander    pholland@iastate.edu
Behold the tortoise: he makes no progress unless he sticks his neck out.
From: grp@Unify.com (Greg Pasquariello)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Garter Snakes
Date: 21 Jan 93 17:41:17 GMT
Organization: Unify Corporation (Sacramento)

Sorry if this is twice posted...

In article <1993Jan20.022430.22449@leland.Stanford.EDU>, drk@leland.Stanford.EDU (David Koehler) writes:
> 
> A a couple of people on this group recently have mentioned keeping
> garter snakes as pets.  Is it true that they musk (release a foul-smelling
> substance) when handled?  Or is it only when they are frightened?
> They could be a rather unpleasant pet.  Has anyone heard of this?

Yes, they do, but they usually tame down after a bit and cease releasing
it.  I've been "slimed" by any number of snakes, and it doesn't smell
*that* bad.  Not even bad enough to bother to wash it off!

> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>       David R. Koehler                         "His DNA is skewed!"
>    drk@leland.stanford.edu                       -- Dr. Beverley Crusher  
> -------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-- 

--
Greg Pasquariello   	grp@unify.com 	        Hobnobbing with the ancients
Unify Corporation	   or		       
(916) 928-6258	    ...!uunet!unify!grp
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: mtaranto@sura.net (Michael Taranto)
Subject: New Iguana owner...
Organization: SURAnet, College Park, MD, USA, NA, Earth, Milky Way
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 15:36:46 GMT

Hi,
	I just got my first Iguana and I am looking for someone who
is versed in the care of Iguanas to be my mentor for awhile. I think
that it would be a good idea for my sanity and Newman if we had someone
I could ask Iguana related questions to. Just so that you know all of my
questions would be in the form of email, don't worry I wouldn't bother you
by calling or anything. I would like to have some first hand experiences
from people who have experience with Iguanas as pets. I tend to believe
that not everything learned comes from a book. If you are willing,
please send me some email on this. Thanks

Michael Taranto

Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: seedman@IASTATE.EDU (Varanus Komodensis)
Subject: Re: Snake Mites
Reply-To: seedman@IASTATE.EDU (Varanus Komodensis)
Organization: Iowa State University
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 15:47:41 GMT

In article <C18MLA.Awo@mentor.cc.purdue.edu>, thompssp@expert.cc.purdue.edu
(Steven P. Thompson) writes:
> The snakes have not eaten yet, but I am not concerned. They have VERY good
> weight to them. Maybe too much?
> 

	Be prepared for a possible loooonnnngggg wait.  I've talked to people
whose wild caught ball pythons have refused to eat for 20+ months.  You might
think force feeding is in order, but that stresses them even more in most 
cases.  On the plus side, some feed right away.  Who knows what goes on inside
the mind of a ball python?  Can't be much.  

					-=- seedman@iastate.edu

===========================================================================
{                   2ND WORLD CONGRESS OF HERPETOLOGY                     }
{   DECEMBER 29, 1993 thru JANUARY 6, 1994        ADELAIDE, AUSTRALIA     }
{                    (say, can anyone lend me $5000)                      }
===========================================================================
 
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: tmohler+@cs.cmu.edu (Tim Mohler)
Subject: Re: Monitor Eats Shit
Organization: School of Computer Science, Carnegie Mellon
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 22:23:16 GMT

In article <1993Jan22.093443@IASTATE.EDU> seedman@IASTATE.EDU (Varanus Komodensis) writes:
>In article <C17zKt.E6I.1@cs.cmu.edu>, tmohler+@cs.cmu.edu (Tim Mohler) writes:
>> When I got home, the shit was gone. I assume Balzac ate it. For the
>> last couple days, he hasn't been looking too good - even for a
>> lizard. Generally lethargic, hasn't come out of his hide box since,
>> doesn't chase his mice like usual... looking under the weather.
>
>> Is there any ill effects to eating your own shit? Can I do
>> anything for him? Should I worry about this in the future?

>> Is this a monitor trait?

>Serious Response...	I don't think it'll kill him.  Monitors in the wild
>-------------------	eat everything from fresh killed to week old carrion.
>			A little shit shouldn't hurt him.  I would make sure
>			that he has plenty of fresh water to drink, keep his
>			cage warm, and keep offering food.  He should come
>			around.  

I am happy to say he has come out of his box, and has gobbled down
several mice and a couple crickets - he loves crickets, so I tried
that first.

He is now roaming around the cage like usual, chasing feet that come
near him.

Apparently eating your own shit won't kill you.

Tim
From: nvonstein@memstvx1.memst.edu
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Questions...Garter Snake (Astro-turf)
Date: 26 Jan 93 08:19:57 -0600
Organization: Memphis State University

In article <1993Jan26.021740.9419@parc.xerox.com>, putz@parc.xerox.com (Steve Putz) writes:
> In article <93025.181106CBTCC@CUNYVM.BITNET>, CBTCC@CUNYVM.BITNET writes:

   (stuff deleted)

> 
> There are no exposed wood surfaces.  The vinyl laminate should be easy enough
> to clean.  I thought the astro-turf would be easy to take out and clean in
> the sink.  We'll see.

I have astro-turf in my ig's terrarium.  It looks really nice and since he
sits up on a branch most of the day, I had very few qualms about using
astro-turf.  Yes, it is very easy to clean, but my little ig doesn't poop very
much - right now it's kind of like a bird.  HOWEVER, for a snake I think I would
be hesitant to use astro-turf for the following reasons:  1) It's hard to tell
how much moisture is in the bottom of the "cage".  2) Newspaper absorbs odors
well and you can easily see when it is time to clean the bottom of the cage. 
These are only my perceptions.  In short, astro-turf can mask some potential
problems.

Nancy
From: aimee@bio5.acpub.duke.edu (Aimee Eisenberg)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Iguana research
Date: 28 Jan 93 22:24:53 GMT
Reply-To: aimee@bio5.acpub.duke.edu (Aimee Eisenberg)


This is the first time I've posted to here, so I hope this works out right...

In any case, I am a graduate student in zoology and am interested in doing 
research in the feeding behavior of iguanine lizards, or any other herbivorous
relatives.  

What I was wondering is if anyone with any information (not purely fun stories, 
even though they're really cool) on the subject could send me either the 
information itself or how to get access to it, it would be greatly appreciated.

                                        Thanks in advance,
                                          Aimee Eisenberg
                                          aimee@acpub.duke.edu
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: svasi@obelix.cs.uoregon.edu (Nathan Tenny)
Subject: Re: Help - muscle spasms in leopard frog!
Keywords: This article printed on 100% recycled electrons
Organization: Dept. of Mathematics, Miskatonic University, Arkham, MA
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 21:53:24 GMT


Well, my ailing leopard frog seems to be recovering fast.  After about 30
hours in warmer water (around 80-82 F), he has stopped having muscle spasms,
is no longer red around the feet, and ate a (dusted) cricket; his colour is
back, too, so I think all is well.

Whatever it is appears to have been bacterial, though probably not red-leg
(he didn't bloat); I presume the heat stimulated his immune system into a
more effective reaction.  It's been suggested that the problem may have
started with a B-vitamin deficiency; anyone know if the symptoms are
consistent with that, or if such a deficiency is likely to weaken the immune
system enough to get bacteria rolling?

	NT
From: putz@parc.xerox.com (Steve Putz)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Questions Preparing for a Garter Snake
Date: 26 Jan 93 02:17:40 GMT
Organization: Xerox PARC

In article <93025.181106CBTCC@CUNYVM.BITNET>, CBTCC@CUNYVM.BITNET writes:
>
> ALL snakes are escape artists (I never did fine my gopher snake...:( ).  Get
> rid of the wood and the astro-turf.  Both are too difficult to keep clean.
> Don't drill ventilation holes in the sides; the beast will get loose. 
> Even if
> the holes are near the top- snakes are also excellent climbers.  If
> the top
> screen is removable, glue the front panel down.  If it isn't
> removable, make
> it so.  Weigh it down securely, or use secure clips.  THEN glue the
> front
> panel down.  Snakes NEVER stop probing for a way out- and they are
> amazingly
> adept at lifting for critters without thumbs, let alone hands!

There are no exposed wood surfaces.  The vinyl laminate should be easy enough
to clean.  I thought the astro-turf would be easy to take out and clean in
the sink.  We'll see.

The front panel is overlapped by the top panel (with a 1/2" lip even) such
that it cannot be lifted without removing the top.  The top is removable
(sliding, not hinged) and I plan to add a hook catch to it.

The screen material is stapled, glued, and nailed down with wood strips.
It seems escape-proof to me, but maybe I'll be surprised.


> Make sure she is EMOTIONALLY prepped for watching a snake eat its prey whole.

We've talked with her about this and I think she'll be fine.  She is not
the squeamish type (but her 12-year old sister is).


A couple of more questions:

Do we need to add any kind of screen below the light bulb, or are snakes
smart enough not to burn themselves on something they can barely reach? 

Also, the thermometer we have indicates 70, 75, 80, 82, 84, 86, 88, 90,
95, 100, 105 degrees.  Is is better to have something more precise in the
75-80 range?

-- Steve
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: aad@siemens.com (Anthony Datri)
Subject: Re: My ball's got a pink belly! Help!
Organization: Siemens Corporate Research, Princeton (Plainsboro), NJ
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 14:48:03 GMT

>Considering the other costs involved in maintaining reptiles, a thermostat
>is not a luxury item. I would consider it essential.

Does that mean that you actually have a source for them?  I can't use what
I can't find.

-- 

======================================================================8--<
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp