HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: sbixby@cup.portal.com (Steven W Bixby)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Which Mechanical Retracts?
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 92 14:33:59 PDT
Organization: The Portal System (TM)
  <62728@cup.portal.com> <l71q77INNj1g@phakt.usc.edu>

>Though I love the way planes look with active retracts on them I don't have
>the foggiest idea of what one needs to do to incorporate them into the
>model. (I realize kits have the plans) but what I'ld like to know is how
>much more effort is it to install mechanical retracts. and more
>importantly...

Not an insignificant effort, but not too bad.  The main thing is to correctly
set mounting rails in the wing, then build wheel wells into the wing also.
The hard part with mechanicals is the linkage - retracts need a pretty heft
control setup for reliability.  I would estimate retracts add about 10-12
hours to the building time of a typical sport-scale ship.

>What is all the hardware you need for pneumatic retracts?
>the retracts, I guess an air cylinder which you mentioned, and probably an
>activation mechanism to open/close the air valve.

Air cylinder, air lines, fittings, valve, retraction cylinders and retracts.
And a small servo to actuate the valve.  Installing pnumatics is a little
bit easier than mechanicals. (IMHO)  Most mfgr's sell their pneumatic
retracts as a all-included kit, minus servo of course.  Some sell the retracts
seperately, but have a kit with everything else available.  (Robart, I think.)
Spring-air and Rhom are all-in-one kits.

>for the air cylinder how does one get air into it? bicycle pump? (silly but
>possible) or a compressed air cartridge?  How much weight is this type of a
>system?

Filling the cylinder is one of those "any which way" things.  Somebody,
I think Robart, makes a pump just for retracts, but I think someone else makes
fittings so you can use your bike pump just as well.  Gotta look around, I 
think.  I just used the Robart (?) pump when I had Rhoms.  I've also seen
some guys use compressed freon canisters, but that's an environmental thing,
so don't.  (please? ;-) )

I dunno what they weigh, I never worried about it - kit designs call for them,
so plug 'em in and cross your fingers was my motto.  I think the Rhom kits
added about 7-8 oz for two-gear, but that's a wild guess.

  -swb- (sbixby@cup.portal.com)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Solar nicad charger???
From: moynes_r@qis.dofasco.ca
Date: 23 Jul 92 13:33:08 GMT
Organization: Dofasco Inc, Hamilton, Ont. Can.
Nntp-Posting-User: moynes_r

Does anybody know of a solar powered charger for nicads?  While on a canoe trip
earlier this summer (hmmmm better make that earlier this July, summer still
hasn't hit these parts), I got to thinking that it would be neat to bring along
an RC electric boat or sailboat if only there were some way to charge the
batteries way out in the bush (and some way to hide the nicads etc in my
friend's pack for the portages).  I've seen ads for these devices that plug
into your car's lighter socket and let you boost-start it using solar power and
was wondering if I could just connect one up to my existing AC/DC charger.  Has
anyone ever tried this?  Does it work?  How long does it take to charge?  How
much does it cost (the solar car boosters go for around $30 CAN)?  Could I
build one myself with parts from Radio Shack?  If anyone has any suggestions,
comments, or ideas, please email me and I will post a summary for the net if
there is enough interest.

Thanks,

Richard Moynes
moynes_r@qis.dofasco.ca

Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: cleigh@rtoeu.enet.dec.com (Chad Leigh)
Subject: take a hike (was Re: Hover achieved... with my Glider!)
Reply-To: cleigh@rtoeu.enet.dec.com
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation, Munich Germany
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 10:49:52 GMT


In article <1992Jul22.090149.12274@rice.edu>, rusty@masc.rice.edu ( Robert Kelley) writes:
charge.  Think I'm going to put i
|>I would like to call the net's attention to the line beginning, "I did have
|>one nasty surprise, though."  This actually translates into about ten lines
|>of mostly uninformative gibberish.  Will whoever this person's sysadmin is
|>either compel it to mend its ways or remove it from the net?  RSK
|>

Dear RSK

Ahem.  You need to mend your ways.  The original was a valid posting, had no obscenities, defamed no one, or other such no-nos.  Your posting was a waste of network (as is this one).  The only one who has to mend his ways is you!  We don't live in a police state where you can only recite spoon fed propoganda.

Chad
DEC Munich


PS:  I am posting and not mailing this so that we all remember that other's postings are ok too!
From: mwp@ms9.mis.semi.harris.com (Mark W. Poole)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Portland, Oregon Slopes?
Date: 30 Jul 92 17:13:51 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL


I'll be in Portland the week of August 10 and was wanting to know
where the slope sites are.  Should I bring the Ridge Runt or the
Metrick?

Thanks,

Mark.
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: weimer@spud.NoSubdomain.NoDomain (Gary Weimer 726-3370)
Subject: Re: Yippeee! (starting heli)
Reply-To: weimer@pixel.kodak.com
Organization: Eastman Kodak Co.; Rochester, NY
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 92 20:25:51 GMT

In article <Bs60K4.F9x@apollo.hp.com>, rimbold@apollo.hp.com (Robert Rimbold) writes:
|> >In article <1992Jul10.180211.6926@pixel.kodak.com> weimer@pixel.kodak.com writes:
|> >> - other?
|> 
|> Buy another set of main blades and a spare boom now :-)

Too late :-(      Wrecked it on the third day out...

Fortunately I was having so much fun when it happenned that I didn't
have to shoot myself for it :-). I was getting board with hover and I
need practice on the landings, so I was flying in a square (sort of...)
and landing at each vertex. I'd been around 5 or 6 times when something
happenned (I'm still not sure what...) and pieces started flying when I
landed...and it wasn't even a panic landing...
(Actually, I only lost the tips of the rotors and bent the boom.)

Moral: Keep that rotor speed up, even when you want the chopper to go
down. I think if I had done this, the rotors would have held themselves
up and stayed away from the boom.

-- 

weimer@ssd.kodak.com ( Gary Weimer )
From: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Streamer suggestions
Date: 21 Jul 92 17:30:04 GMT
Organization: Indiana University

In article <BrotH7.AAL@acsu.buffalo.edu> trljim@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (JIM SONNENMEIER) writes:
>In article <seanm.0sqy@terapin.com>, seanm@terapin.com (Sean McCaskey) writes...


>We're going to try slope combat now (I have another RIDGE RUNT, this one
>has a V-tail) and I wondered if anyone has done this and if they could 
>recommend a good streamer material ... We've tried audio tape but tis hard
>to see ... maybe if we paint it flourecent orange .. does cre'paper come
>in different widths??? ... these aren't CHEETTA's so I don't think we'll
>try actual 'hit and crash' combat. 



Give videotape a try. Or computer tape. Its quite a bit wider. Ano-
ther possibility is plastic tablecloth matherial which you cut into 
strips. 

For powered combat the biggest problem is finding streamers that 
stay together when it rains, can stand up to 120+ mph and will pro-
duce visible chunks when cut. Solutions range from taping crepe
paper with masking tape to using plastic/paper laminated table-
cloths (1990 and 1991 Nats) and machine sewing down the middle of
crepe paper (produces a satisfying explosion of paper when a cut
occurs). 



-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Iskandar Taib                          | The only thing worse than Peach ala
Internet: NTAIB@SILVER.UCS.INDIANA.EDU |    Frog is Frog ala Peach
Bitnet:   NTAIB@IUBACS                 !
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc,sci.electronics
From: rsilvers@powwow.nynexst.com (Rob Silvers)
Subject: How to dispose of NiCads?
Originator: rsilvers@powwow
Organization: Nynex Science and Technology
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 92 16:12:40 GMT



	I have a bunch of NiCad cells that I no longer want.  Should I just
throw them away?  Is there an established place to bring them?  

--Rob.
From: bloom@inland.com
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: The end is Ni
Date: 28 Jul 92 08:23:15 CST
Organization: Inland Steel Company; East Chicago, IN

In article <17012@acorn.co.uk>, cwatters@acorn.co.uk (Colin Watters) writes:
> In article <BrotJH.KJD@world.std.com> jlw@world.std.com (James L Walker) writes:
> 
>>... stuff deleted...
>> For that matter what is the environmental impact of NiCads.
>>
>>-- Les Walker
>>-- High Flyers
>       
> The theory is: People throw NiCads out with the rubish and the cells corrode on the
> tip and Cadmium leaches into the water table. If you visit the library and look up
> Cadmium in the books on health and safety you find Cadmium poisining leads to a
> horrible death.


Before they make this nasty cadmium into batteries, where is it stored?
Is it kept on the moon prior to industrial use and then shipped back there 
after we are done with our batteries?  Perhaps it is kept in the ground 
on Earth........heavens no.  To avoid cadmium poisoning, don't eat your 
batteries.
From: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Vintage Stunt Championships
Date: 30 Jul 92 17:55:57 GMT
Organization: Indiana University

In article <LARRY.92Jul28091538@peak.psl.nmsu.edu> larry@peak.psl.nmsu.edu (Evil Engineer doin' it the Cowboy Way) writes:
>In article <Bs2606.L5D@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu> ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib) writes:

>Lyman's ship was finished in orange, with K&B .40. Gary's was yellow, and
>mine was dark red. Actually we had a fourth ship by Mark Bowen, in black,
>which had a misunderstanding with a Las Cruces dust devil two days before
>we went to Arizona.

Oh dear! Talk about going round in circles...I've lost an airplane
to a bird but a dust devil must have been an interesting way to lose
and airplane.

>BTW, Iskandar, there is a large East Coast Vintage contest too. You might
>check into it - seems like it was in Atlanta maybe. (Don't quote me,
>though..) 

There are a few round these parts too. The Indy meet two weekends ago
also had Old Time and Nostalgia stunt contests. The VSC does sound like
an incredible meet that would be unlike anything I've ever been to. I'd
also love to make the Bladder Grabber someday. 

>FM Editor Bob Hunt himself arranged us a copy of "original" MAN plans 
>(well, the first page anyway) for the RoadRunner. Just in case you wanted 
>to build one - they are a great ship, with 620 square inch wing,
>originally designed for a Fox .35. I would send you a copy of the plan 
>if you got serious about it.

Yeah Ol' Bob is an interesting person. He doesn't look at all like
you'd expect the Chief Editor of FM to look like. I got to meet him
a while back at a Stunt Team Trials where he was selling carbon 
pipes. 

I have a friend who is really into the Nostalgia stunt ships so if I 
don't end up building one he'd appreciate having the plans. It does 
sound like a nice airplane, most of the designs from back then were
real eye-pleasers. It would be fun for a bunch of us net-people to 
get together and all fly the same design, though, wouldn't it? I'd 
have to cover it in silk and dope perhaps.. Monokote would be a crime
on something like that!



-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Iskandar Taib                          | The only thing worse than Peach ala
Internet: NTAIB@SILVER.UCS.INDIANA.EDU |    Frog is Frog ala Peach
Bitnet:   NTAIB@IUBACS                 !
From: richard@mais.hydro.qc.ca (Richard Patenaude)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: tweaking stock motors
Date: 21 Jul 92 18:19:06 GMT
Organization: Hydro-Quebec, Montreal, Canada

hutto@SMTC.engr.scarolina.edu (Brent Hutto) writes:

>In article <richard.711657035@tdsb-s>, richard@mais.hydro.qc.ca (Richard Patenaude) writes:
>>At the club i race, we can only use stock speedwork motors (Dirt Oval), my 
>>problem is that all the A main racers know how to get more RPM's out of their 
>>motors without opening the can....does anyone out there know how to do it and 
>>would be nice enough to tell me?
>>
>>
>>                                   Tired of being blown away!!!!!
>>
>>                                             Richard

>    I don't know very much about juicing up "stock" motors since I don't 
>    race in any "stock" classes.  I race because I like racing, not because
>    I like messing around with motors, so "modified" classes are a better
>    deal for me.  That said, here's what little I do know about motor tweaks.

>    There are three basic approaches to making a stock or handout motor
>    produce more power.
            .
            .
            . 

>-------------------------------
>Brent Hutto
>hutto@SMTC.engr.scarolina.edu


    Thanks alot Brent, this will help me a great deal!. For now i think i'll  
stick with brush and spring combinations to get the most out of my motors so
i'll invest in a dyno instead of buying motors by the dozen.


    btw, any dynos you could recommend? I want one that doesn't use a battery
pack as input i don't find them consistent enough since no packs are alike.


                                          Thanks again!

                                          Richard Patenaude
                                          richard@mais.hydro.qc.ca
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc,sci.electronics
From: steve@dmntor.UUCP (Steve Pozgaj)
Subject: Modulex and LCD's
Summary: what is an "MTN-Type" display
Keywords: LCD, MTN-Type, Modulex
Organization: Digital Media Networks, Toronto, Canada
Distribution: net
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 92 13:08:57 GMT

(At the start of July, I posted this article.  It seems our news server was
down, unbenounced to me!  Therefore, either the article never made it, or
no replies came back, or both.  So, forgive me for any double posting ...)

We are reviewing some applications for LCD displays, so I'm trying to learn
a bit about them.  (Any suggestions re. better newsgroups for this purpose
are also welcome:-)  Anyway, I have some sales-poop on an "MTN-Type"
display, claiming how superior that is.  Anybody know what this designation
means?

Also, this stuff is from a company called Modulex (Denmark).  Are they really
"leaders in the filed".  Any help would be appreciated.
-- 
Steve Pozgaj (signature in postmark; cute remarks in comics section)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib)
Subject: Re: New kind of cover finish for R/C airplan.
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 17:01:48 GMT

In article <1992Jul30.012753.2477@unlinfo.unl.edu> jam@cse.unl.edu (James Macfarlane) writes:
>dtt@mitisft.Convergent.COM (Duc Tran) writes:
>
>>Hello World,
>
>>Has anyone used any other material to finish the airplay beside Monocoque
>>(and equivalence,) japanese tissue, silk tissue?
>     (much deleted)
>
>I know that this isn't what you were exactly wanting, but I've flown a
>plane that was made entirely out of cardboard and yardsticks (structural
>components that is; radio, engine, etc were standard type equiptment).

I think he means Monokote  9-)

Anyhow, there are lots of coverings out there. I think he wants the 
smooth glossy look so perhaps the thing to do is sheet all surfaces 
and paint with dope. The C/L stunt people do this and their planes 
are gorgeous. 

Silk, tissue, dope et. al will give you that "classic look" but it 
won't give you the modern "plastic" look. 

There are also the iron-on fabrics like Coverite.



-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Iskandar Taib                          | The only thing worse than Peach ala
Internet: NTAIB@SILVER.UCS.INDIANA.EDU |    Frog is Frog ala Peach
Bitnet:   NTAIB@IUBACS                 !
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: More R/C Gliding........
From: kaiser@elec.canterbury.ac.nz (Chris Kaiser)
Date: 23 Jul 92 22:08:56 +1200
Distribution: world
Organization: Electrical Engineering, University of Canterbury, New Zealand

In article <1992Jul22.233354.6431@rtsg.mot.com>, svoboda@rtsg.mot.com (David Svoboda) writes:

> 9. Find a "cruise speed" and a "thermal speed" for your particular airplane, and
> memorize the elevator trim positions for these.  Cruise speed is usually your
> best glide ratio; that is, it's when you cover the most ground horizontally, for
> the amount of altitude you are losing.  This is typically pretty fast.  Thermal
> speed is your minimum sink rate, usually just a bit faster than stall.

A guy at our club once told me a good tip for setting up a thermal soarer - once
you've found the cruise position, set up the elevator linkage so that full-down trim
gives you cruise. It makes it much easier to fly consistently when set like this. For
thermalling you pull as much up-trim as required for the conditions.

> 15. If you get the thermal flight of your life, pay attention to how much time you
> have on your receiver batteries.  (Ask me how I know this one. :-(  )

This is very important for electric gliders that use Rx battery eliminators. Although I
use a separate Rx battery pack, I still have to watch this - if the Rx pack gets too flat
the servos still operate fine, but the relay in the electronic on-off switch I use
won't trip. This happened to me a few weeks ago when setting up a new radio installation
(on the ground as I knew the batteries weren't charged), resulting in a burned out
soft-start MOSFET and lots of smoke! Luckily I was able to repair it myself (and hence
save about $100 (NZ)), however if this happened in the air the model could well catch
fire - talk about crashing and burning! :-)

Chris Kaiser

Postgrad, Elec. Eng. Dept.
University of Canterbury
Christchurch, NEW ZEALAND


From: rexm@hpsad.sad.hp.com (Rex Musgrave)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 20:03:28 GMT
Subject: Rubber power
Organization: HP Signal Analysis Division - Rohnert Park, CA
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc

I have built a rubber powered plane for my son (age 7). It was an
interesting building experience. We built the Flyline Models Monocoupe.
I thought he could help with the building but it turns out that this
stick and tissue design is the most difficult building experience that
I have encountered so far. I did get some 7 year old help in coating the
tissue with dope and we have an airworthy ship. She flies or rather goes
through a powered glide. She is pretty stout having endured several 
bumpy landings.

My question is about rubber power. The plans say use a loop of 1/4 inch
rubber and that's about all. What do you all know about rubber power?
What about rubber types? How many turns can you wind up on it? Should
we consider lubrication of the rubber? What other questions should I
ask?

Thank in advance for any help you can give us.


Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: dat@noao.edu (D'Anne Thompson)
Subject: Re: Noise elimination for embedded aileron servos
Originator: dat@gemini.tuc.noao.edu
Organization: National Optical Astronomy Observatories, Tucson, AZ, USA
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 20:32:53 GMT

ACE RC Inc makes a product called the "Noise Trap".  It is available at all
good hobby stores (either as a kit, or assembled).  It is intended as a
filter to protect RF from entering the receiver via the long servo leads.

I have used Noise Traps without problems.  I have had an occassional airleron
servo buzz and hum when the transmitter is very close to it.  However,
moving the TX antenna away stopped the buzz.

Someone was marketing ferrite doughnuts for use as low-pass filters to
block RF signals on long servo leads several years ago.  Haven't seen them
in quite some time.  Perhaps someone else can remember the manufacturer.

-- 
D'Anne Thompson
National Optical Astronomy Observatories
P.O. Box 26732, Tucson, AZ 85726    (602) 325-9335
dat@noao.edu  {...}!uunet!noao.edu!dat
From: cwatters@acorn.co.uk (Colin Watters)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: 10 Cell F3E anyone?
Date: 23 Jul 92 17:11:27 GMT
Organization: Acorn Computers Ltd, Cambridge, England


Anyone out there interested in 10 Cell F3E and want to swap
notes?

To get things going....

I've just started (10Cell F3E that is) and have a Robbe Arcus
fitted with a Keller 70/4. This is quite a mean motor and it 
got me a 4th place (out of 15) at my first comp. 

Full details:

 Model:   Robbe Arcus (std kit but: Glass covered flying surfaces)

 Motor:   KE70/4  520W

 Battery: 10 Sanyo 1400

 AUW:     2.1KG 

 Prop:    Carbon Fib. AeroNaut 12.5" x 6.5"

Notes:

 First outing in windy weather I did 14 legs on each flight and a
 total score of 960 for the two flights. The Arcus conforms to the
 new (UK?) increased wing area rules that come into force next year.

 How to improve on this:

 I believe the motor/prop combination is about right. I get 90secs
 motor run which is enough to do the 5min duration section in bad
 weather. The 70/4 pulls the plane up pretty quick compared to other
 motors in use.

 My plane is too heavy at 2.1Kg - Some models now weigh 1.6Kg.
 If I could get the weight down it would climb faster and I would
 have more time to do legs. Also I wouldn't have to run the motor
 for as long during the duration section which would give a higher
 points score.
 
 I know I can save weight by removing the rudder servo and moving the
 elevator servo into the fin. This would allow be to remove about 2 oz
 of tail weight I am carrying. Otherwise I got to build a new model...

 I think a glass+carbon version of the Arcus fus would be good anyone
 got a recommended way to make strong but light foam/glass/carbon wings?

 Also anyone know of a better motor for 10 cell F3E than the Keller 70/4?

 Colin


 


 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
|            _          | Email: cwatters@acorn.co.uk (Colin Watters)       |
|    _      \ \         |                                                   |
|   | \______\_\_____   |---------------------------------------------------|
|   |-________--_____\  |                                                   |
|            / /        | Do it by remote control !                         |
|           /_/         |                                                   |
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: mkfeil@bcrki9.bnr.ca
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Noise elimination for embedded aileron servos
Date: 30 Jul 92 23:50:33 GMT
Organization: Bell-Northern Research

In article <1992Jul30.203253.2273@noao.edu> dat@noao.edu (D'Anne Thompson) writes:
>ACE RC Inc makes a product called the "Noise Trap".  It is available at all

Note that the original poster has a PCM radio, which will not glitch in the
standard way, so I don't think it is an RF problem. There is not much else
it could be though, since all other signals are relatively low frequency and
high amplitude and so are quite immune to noise. To say for sure, I would
have to know more details about the glitching.

Max
--
Max Feil  mkfeil@bnr.ca | Disclaimer:
Bell-Northern Research  |   What do I know? I'm just a Nerd on the Big Ranch.
P.O Box 3511 Station C, |
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada.| "Enrich The Soil, Not EveryBody's Goal" -Peter Gabriel
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: wolgamot@milton.u.washington.edu (Greg Wolgamot)
Subject: Re: Tuned Pipes for Boats
Organization: University of Washington
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1992 16:52:32 GMT

Summary: 
Expires: 
Followup-To: 
Distribution: 
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Keywords: boats 

Hello!  I have a problem that I hope someone out there can help me with.
I've got a Dumas Scarab with an Irvine 61 in it.  It's got a tuned pipe,
but for the last five years, I've been using it without the pipe tuned.
I know that you use a tachometer to tune an airplane pipe, but I know that
running the boat engine without load (small boat prop doesn't create the
load when out of water) would be disastrous for the engine. Suggestions?
Thank you in advance!
                                 -Greg


Newsgroups: rec.models.rc