HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jaz00@diag.amdahl.com (Joe Zuk)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Radial Arm Saw Alignment
Date: 11 Jan 93 20:15:35 GMT
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Cupertino, CA


a problem with my sears. I know my first problem is owning a sears.        
Anyway when I do a cross cut on a large board, say 8-12 in. I end up       
with a small back cut at the end of the board. I looks like the back       
side of the blade jumps over to the left and cuts the board. Like          
this:                                                                      
                                                                           
                     |                                                     
                     |                                                     
                    |                                                      
            ---------                                                      
                      back cut                                             
                                                                           
I tried using diffenet blade thinking that the blade was binding, but      
no joy there. I also made sure that the blade was square to the fence      
and it is. What should I check next.                                       
                                                                           
                                                                          
Thanks,                                                                    
Joe                                                                        
 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: animal@rtp-nc.mentorg.com (ANIMAL)
Subject: Re: Table Saw surface rust
Summary: 
Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1993 15:07:44 GMT
Reply-To: animal@rtp-nc.mentorg.com
Organization: Mentor Graphics Corporation
Keywords: 
Followup-To: 

I did not know Turtle Wax made a Paste Wax. I hope you are not using
car wax as this is intended to be applied over enamel and often has
abrasives for polishing in it.  I have used Johnson Paste Wax on my
cast iron machines and have had no trouble with rusting. I apply the 
wax librally at night and polish the next day.  This leaves a very 
smooth finish that wears well.  

p.s. I had trouble finding paste wax but finally found it in a supermarket
with the furniture polish. It comes in a 6" round yellow tin that is about 
2" tall.  It is used to polish floors of all things.  
---
________________________________________________________
000 000
(_) (_)    animal@rtp-nc.mentorg.com
________________________________________________________
                     ____  
     ^      |\   || |_  _| |\    /|      ^      ||
    /^\     | \  ||   ||   | \  / |     /^\     ||
   // \\    ||\\ ||   ||   ||\\//||    // \\    ||
  //___\\   || \\||   ||   || \/ ||   //___\\   ||
 //_____\\  ||  \ |  _||_  ||    ||  //_____\\  ||_____
//       \\ ||   \| |____| ||    || //       \\ |______|
________________________________________________________

From: rer@hpfcdc.fc.hp.com (Rob Robason)
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 21:19:31 GMT
Subject: Need Pinewood Derby Track plans
Organization: HP Fort Collins, Co.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

Anyone have contruction plans for a Pinewood Derby track for Cub Scouts?

Please email response to robason@fc.hp.com.

Thanks,

Rob
From: msieweke@hayes.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Where to shop in Atlanta?
Date: 11 Jan 93 16:21:58 EDT
Organization: Hayes Microcomputer Products, Norcross, GA

In article <1993Jan8.145717.24891@hubcap.clemson.edu>, walt@eng.clemson.edu (Walter B. Ligon III) writes:
> In Atlanta, check out Highland Hardware, on North Highland Ave., in the
> Virginia-Highlands district.  For hardwoods, go to Carlton's Hardwoods on
> Hemphill Ave.  near the corner of 14th street.  ...

Definitely go see Highland Hardware.  If you are going to Carlton's, call 
ahead to check their hours.  The last time I was there (~3 years ago),
the salesman said "Life is too short to work on Saturday."

You may also wish to check out Stone Mountain Power Tools, which is on
Jimmy Carter Boulevard around 2 miles west of I-85.  For wood you may
want to see Atlanta Hardwoods, which is on South Cobb Drive just south
of I-285.  For good prices on domestic hardwoods check out Suwanee
Lumber Co., which is near I-85, northeast of Atlanta.

If you are an antique tool buff, try to find Marietta Hardware.  They
have a display of tools on the back wall of the store.  They aren't for
sale, but the display covers several centuries and more than woodworking.
-- 
Mike Sieweke                            ...!uunet!hayes!msieweke
Hayes Microcomputer Products            msieweke@hayes.com
Norcross, Georgia                       hayes!msieweke@relay1.uu.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mcovingt@aisun3.ai.uga.edu (Michael Covington)
Subject: Where to shop in Atlanta?
Organization: AI Programs, University of Georgia, Athens
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 05:17:19 GMT

Where are the good places to buy woodworking tools, furniture-grade
wood, hardware, accessories, etc., in the Atlanta area?

Spurred by Santa Claus' gift of a drill press, I've decided to fill
some gaps in my knowledge of woodworking.  What I'm interested in doing
is generally small to miniature size (i.e., I don't build furniture,
I build things on the scale of toys or gadgets), and mostly in support
of my other hobbies (electronics, photography, etc.).  For example, the
next few projects are going to be a pencil holder (for 150 pencils) for
my wife, who is an artist; a wooden camera-to-kaleidoscope adapter; and
probably some enclosures or display bases for electronic equipment.
Of course my daughters are fascinated by the possibility of building
toys, too.

If I were to spend a Saturday looking around interesting stores in 
Atlanta, where should I go?

(People in other parts of the country, please mention some national
chains that could have Atlanta stores, even if you don't know whether
they actually do.)

Thanks to all.
-- 
:-  Michael A. Covington     internet mcovingt@uga.cc.uga.edu :    *****
:-  Artificial Intelligence Programs       phone 706 542-0358 :  *********
:-  The University of Georgia                fax 706 542-0349 :   *  *  *
:-  Athens, Georgia 30602-7415 U.S.A.     amateur radio N4TMI :  ** *** **
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-VMS-To: IN%"WOODWORK%IPFWVM.BitNet@pucc.PRINCETON.EDU"
MIME-version: 1.0
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 12 Jan 1993 13:34:15 -0500
From:         "Wile E. Coyote" <BBHULSEY@LIFE.UAMS.EDU>
Subject:      misc.consumer.house

Greetings!

Someone wrote:

>Or run your own netnews machine.  It's easy if you have a UNIX machine,
>but I think you can do it with a PC as well.  All you need is a site
>willing to feed you -- and amongst the collective readership of this
>group, I doubt it will be hard to find a volunteer.  (Btw -- tell them
>about misc.consumers.house, too; they also publish Fine Homebuilding.)

Does anyone have an e-mail (internet) address for subscribing to
misc.consumers.house?

Thanks!

.......
:  o/ : Bruce Hulsey
: <|  : Univ. of Arkansas for Medical Sciences
: / > : internet: bbhulsey@life.uams.edu
:.....: bitnet:   bbhulsey@uams
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: javery@bnr.ca (Joel Avery)
Subject: Re: squiblet flurbigator
Reply-To: javery@bnr.ca
Organization: Bell Northern Research
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 22:08:03 GMT

In article <1993Jan11.185653.2426@cliff.se.hou.compaq.com>, stevep@sparky.se.hou.compaq.com (Steve Pinn) writes:
|> I know this is dumb but all I know about these squiblet flurbigator's
|> is that UPS woun't ship them.
|> 
The actual problem is that UPS does not like to ship squibletizers.  If you just
tell them that it is a flurbigator, there should not be a problem.  UPS had a 
truck crash that was carrying a squiblet trontocronk.  The theory was that the
squiblet's ion generator caused the truck's ABS system to fail, so squiblets of
all types are forbidden.  Trontocronks and flurbigators are no problem.

|> rich 

-- 

Joel
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mcovingt@aisun3.ai.uga.edu (Michael Covington)
Subject: Simple problem, solution needed
Organization: AI Programs, University of Georgia, Athens
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 05:22:59 GMT

In building toys and small gadgets, I'm often faced with the following
problem:
  
  What is the best way to make a clean, perpendicular crosscut in
  a piece of molding or other wood considerably smaller than a 2x4?

I've tried:

  Circular saw  -- With carbide blade, works well, but is hard to
    use when the piece of wood is much smaller and lighter than
    the saw.

  Scroll saw -- Fine with stock 1/4" thick or smaller.  With 3/4" thick
    wood, the blade tends to bend and go its own way.  (This is a small
    Dremel scroll saw.  Maybe a big one would be better.)

  Saber saw -- Again, hard to position if the wood is smaller and
    lighter than the saw; also somewhat hard to get a straight cut.
 
  Cheap miter box with back saw -- Best results so far.  Maybe I should
    get a quality miter box with a finer-toothed saw...?

Any other suggestions?  Do I need Dremel's baby table saw (4")?
Or what?


-- 
:-  Michael A. Covington     internet mcovingt@uga.cc.uga.edu :    *****
:-  Artificial Intelligence Programs       phone 706 542-0358 :  *********
:-  The University of Georgia                fax 706 542-0349 :   *  *  *
:-  Athens, Georgia 30602-7415 U.S.A.     amateur radio N4TMI :  ** *** **
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Would a folding router table be sturdy enough?
From: smp@cerc.wvu.wvnet.edu (Shailesh M. Potnis)
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 13:30:32 GMT
Organization: Concurrent Engineering Research Center

I have finally managed to make a router table top and now having second 
thoughts about baking a stationary base for it, since the floor space is at
premium.  I am now thinking of attaching it to the side of my workbench (a
heavy metal rectangle, not a scandinavian delight), by using 3 four inches T
hinges and two steel removable braces to support it when in the horizontal
position.  I have seen a few specialty hinges for this purpose but the prices
are prohibitive.  

	My question is: would this arrangement be sturdy enough for medium
duty use?  The top is 32 X 24 X 1.5" of particle board and Formica. 

	All comments and suggestions are highly appreciated.

	Thanks in advance.

	Shailesh

-- 
Shailesh Potnis, Associate	|Concurrent Engineering Research
Member of Technical Staff	|Center, West Virginia University
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: rbp@netcom.com (Bob Pasker)
Subject: i got a good price on this book
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 03:59:27 GMT

as per the FAQ, i picked up spielman's Router Jigs & Techniques at
Green Apple books on Clement in SF, CA.  it was $5.98 hardback.  '88
edition.  [softcover was $11 :-]
-- 
-- 
-- bob pasker
-- rbp@netcom.com
--
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: How to apply laminate adhesive in winter
From: smp@cerc.wvu.wvnet.edu (Shailesh M. Potnis)
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 22:51:26 GMT
Organization: Concurrent Engineering Research Center

I would like to know if there is a way to apply laminate adhesive in winter.  
The adhesive is flammable and warns to extinguish all flames including a pilot
light.  My shop shares the heating with rest of the house and I do not want
to freeze it's incumbents.  Is there any way around extinguishing the furnace
and pilot and applying the adhesive

	All comments and suggestions are highly appreciated.

	Thanks in advance

	Shailesh
-- 
Shailesh Potnis, Associate	|Concurrent Engineering Research
Member of Technical Staff	|Center, West Virginia University
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: corwin@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (carl.w.smedberg)
Subject: custom router bits?
Summary: Need to duplicate a door edge profile
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 18:01:21 GMT


I'm in the process of making copy of a cabinet and I can't seem
to figure out how to duplicate the edge detail on the door.
The profile is about an 3/16th inch deep and 11/16ths of an inch wide. 
Its made up of a cove and a step crudely illustrated below.

	 ----------\ 
 	            \___
   	                |_
	       	          |
	                  |
	                  |
	                  |
	                  |
			  |
	 ------------------
	
I've been through several catalogs full of router bits but even 
multiple passes with different bits won't seem to produce the same
results. If a custom bit is the way to go who do you recommend and what
kind of price and delivery time should I expect? This isn't a one
shot deal. I've got quite a few doors to make if I have to layout
big bucks for the bit.

Thanks,

Carl Smedberg
att!ihlpm!corwin
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Recommendation:  Bandsaw and Air Compressor
Date: 12 Jan 93 17:12:50 GMT
Organization: LLNL

In article <C0pD5L.EnA@hpuerca.atl.hp.com>, sfk@hpuerca.atl.hp.com (Steve Katz) writes:
> 
> 
> I am considering the purchase of two new tools:  a bandsaw and an air
> compressor.  I would appreciate your opinions and reasoning on what to
> purchase.
> 

[stuff deleted about bandsaw, compressor usage]

>  What size motor do I need (110/220VAC) - 3HP, 5HP?  How large
> should the tank be?  What brands are good?
> 

You just touched the first most crucial issue in air compressors.  The second
is whether to go all cast iron or to go with an aluminum compressor pump.

Motor and motor duty rating are the most abused and lied-about specification
advertised about air compressors.  Many sources, notably S***s, publish
"developed horsepower" ratings, by which they mean maximum horsepower just
before the pressure switch turns off the motor.  What this means is that the
compressor cannot be used at 100% duty cycle, and it often means that due
to light construction, the compressor will wear out rapidly under significant
workload.  Not only the motor, but the belt drive and the pump are only fit
for intermittant duty.

Us conservative types favor a cast iron pump and a continous duty motor.  If
all components are conservatively designed, this results in a very heavy, but
reliable machine.  For instance, an 80 gal ASME tank 5 Hp compressor will
weigh about 650 lbs.  You can run it all day and it will get warm, but not
spit-sizzling hot.  Smaller machines will weigh correspondingly less.

If you buy over about 2 Hp peak rating, you'll need either a 30 Amp 110
circuit or a 20 Amp 220 circuit.  For 5 Hp, you need a 30 Amp 220 circuit.
5 Hp isn't advised for 110 V because of the large unbalanced load it will
put on your (the power company's) pole transformer.

G.
From: kl@cveng120.veheng.det (Keith L)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Amish; was: Re: WARNING (response to...)
Date: 11 Jan 93 18:28:51 GMT
Reply-To: kl@cveng120.veheng.det
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.


In article M3x@athena.cs.uga.edu, mcovingt@aisun3.ai.uga.edu (Michael Covington) writes:
>
>My understanding -- and this may be completely wrong -- is that the Amish
>use air power rather than electrical power in order to avoid a connection
>to a utility system.  That is, they feel that being connected to an outside
>utility system would make them vulnerable to outside control.
>
>Is that anything like a correct understanding of it?
>-- 
>:-  Michael A. Covington     internet mcovingt@uga.cc.uga.edu :    *****
>:-  Artificial Intelligence Programs       phone 706 542-0358 :  *********
>:-  The University of Georgia                fax 706 542-0349 :   *  *  *
>:-  Athens, Georgia 30602-7415 U.S.A.     amateur radio N4TMI :  ** *** **


I thought it was because they think electricity is the work of the devil, or something like that.  Nonetheless, I don't think we'll be getting any posts from them, although I would like to hear from the Amish guy who was featured in WOOD magazine.   All his shop tools operated pneumatically using using a central internal combustion compressor.  He seemed like a pretty crafty guy!
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mglacy@lamar.ColoState.EDU ()
Subject: Push Sticks  (was Re: WARNING (response to...))
Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1993 15:57:08 GMT
Organization: Colorado State University, Fort Collins, CO  80523

....Various people relate their table saw accidents......

I appreciate reading the accident stories---really, one can never be
reminded too often.  I'm struck, though, that no one has mentioned
using push sticks as a preventive measure.  Push sticks are easy
to make from scrap, are relatively easy to use, and will eliminate
essentially all hand-blade accidents.  Given this, I'm surprised
I rarely see anyone on rec.ww mentioning using them.  What don't
you non-pushers :-)  like about sticks?  
  As a regular 'pusher,' I subjectively feel less in control with sticks,
but I always tell myself that fingers are more important than a
sense of control.   Any thoughts?
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-==-=-=-=
Mike Lacy, Sociology Dept.      CSU and I have a deal: We don't take
Colo. State Univ.               responsibility for one another's opinions.
Fort Collins CO 80523           voice (303) 491-6721
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: grun@intellistor.com (Paul Grun)
Subject: Re: Sale on Quick-Grip clamps
Organization: Intellistor, Inc.
Date: Sun, 10 Jan 93 21:30:50 GMT

In <64770030@hpcss01.cup.hp.com> markw@hpcss01.cup.hp.com (Mark Williams) writes:

>There is an even cheaper source for clamps:  Chinese clones of
>the light-duty bar clamps made by Adjustable Clamp (their 37XX series).
>Since I need lots of clamps I was thinking of making some.  But in
>my wanderings to the San Jose Flea Market, I found several dealers
>with these.  They go for $2.50 for the 6" to $5.00 for the 36" ones.
>I can't really afford to make them at these prices.

Beware of cheap clamps.  You get exactly what you pay for. Actually, I got less
than I paid for.   I bought some and eventually threw them out.  Much too
frustrating to work with.  

-Paul
intellistor.com
-- 

goes to show, you don't ever know...
grun@intellistor.com
From: kl@cveng120.veheng.det (Keith L)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: DeWalt biscuit jointer, first look, questi
Date: 6 Jan 93 18:16:17 GMT
Reply-To: kl@cveng120.veheng.det
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.


   Freud biscuit joiner creates the same sound.  It has been there since I purchased the tool in July 1990.  I have inspected the blade mount, bearing and angle gear assembly and the noise is related to play, or slop, inherent in the mesh of the angle gears.  A friend's Freud joiner does not exhibit this noise but his gears mesh a little tighter (On the joiner that is!!).  A machinist friend's advice was that it is preferable to have the gears a little too loose than too tight as the latter condition accel




erates wear.  My joiner has seen heavy use and is still working like a champ.  I have also noticed the same type of noise on angle grinders and other machines that use the same gear set-up.  Any type of geared tool that I have used exhibits gear noise.  You should hear my Ryobi 8 1/4" RAS and my Makita power miter saw.
From: masticol@cadenza.rutgers.edu (Steve Masticola)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Was the New Yankee Workshop cancelled?
Date: 11 Jan 93 17:32:26 GMT
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.


Hi,

I used to love the New Yankee Workshop on PBS, but it seems to have
been taken off the air locally (the New York and New Jersey PBS
stations don't have it anymore.) I saw it on the Philadelphia PBS
station when I was visiting my parents, but it seemed to be old shows.
Can someone tell me if the show was cancelled?

Thanks,
- Steve "Norm Abram Rules!" masticol@cs.rutgers.edu.

P.S. Just for a bit of balance, I got a chuckle out of the episode
where he showed "Yankee thrift" by making a coffee table out of pallet
wood. I figure it must have cost him at least 20 hours and a set of
planer blades; he couldn't have sold the table for less than about a
thousand bucks and expected to make a decent profit :-)
From: kl@cveng120.veheng.det (Keith L)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Dust Masks for Us 4-Eyed Types
Date: 12 Jan 93 20:54:18 GMT
Reply-To: kl@cveng120.veheng.det
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.

Try the Dustfoe Dust Mask  (cat Df66  $24.95) available from Highland Hardware (800-241-6748) in Atlanta.  Apart from being a darn good dust mask (made for use in coal mines I believe), they fit will on faces with glasses.  Work well if you have a beard too!
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: sdk@controls.ccd.harris.com (Sean Klingler)
Subject: Re: Biscuit Adapter for Sear's Routers
Organization: Harris Controls and Composition
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 20:23:27 GMT

In article <1993Jan4.143422.5769@kodak.kodak.com> marulli@kodak.kodak.com (Dave x71244/RDCS/2-205-KO) writes:
>Has anyone tried the adapter that Sear's sells for their routers that turns 
>it into a biscuit joiner? It's about $40, so I don't have much faith in it.
>
>Does it work for occasional home use or is this just another one of those
>'make something else from something you have that won't work anywhere near
>as good had you bought what you were trying to make in the first place' items?
>
>Thanks for any info anyone has.

I just finished building the dresser in Norm Abrams first book.  I used
this biscuit adapter for my Sears router, and was very pleased
with the results.  It takes a little work and time to get used to, but
it does adequate joints.  I must say though, that if you will be doing a lot
of work with the biscuits, I would buy an actual biscuit joiner instead.
Also, I don't think I would even attempt to use it for anything else
other that edge glueing boards together.

Sean Klingler
sdk@ccd.harris.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: Nick_Janow@mindlink.bc.ca (Nick Janow)
Subject: Re: Ryobi planer
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada
Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1993 02:15:33 GMT

MARENGO@CCIT.ARIZONA.EDU (Peter J Watson) writes:

> I am looking for a small plane to do small stock on a limited basis. To
> take 3/4' down to 1/2 or 3/8 for toys and small projects. I have tried
> resawing in the past and have never been satisfied with the continuity of
> my cuts.

You might consider tuning up your bandsaw instead.  If your saw is decent,
you should be able to resaw satisfactorily.  My Delta 14" with height
extender can slice veneer off 8" hardwood (I haven't tried cutting veneer on
a full 12", but it may work well too) with a sharp blade.

Perhaps your problem is as simple as using an underpowered motor, in which
case the solution is much cheaper than buying a planer, and less wasteful of
wood.

--

Nick_Janow@mindlink.bc.ca
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking