HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: br105@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey A. Del Col)
Newsgroups: rec.kites
Subject: A chocolate para-sled?
Date: 13 Apr 92 01:38:13 GMT
Article-I.D.: usenet.1992Apr13.013813.10166
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio, (USA)


I am just getting back into kiting, now that my son is old
enough to control a kite by himself.  Last year I saw a
promotional deal from Hershey's chocolate that offered
what looked like a hybrid parafoil-sled kite in exhange for
somme proof of purchase seals and about $5 , . I got one, and
now I wish I'd ordered a helf dozen or so.  It's a rip-stop
nylon kite that comes in a neat nylon bag that also doubles
as a tail.  The literature that camme with it says it comes
from Go Fly a Kite. Getting used to  its flight character-
istics took a little doing, but now I love it!  Does anyone
out there know about these Hershey kites?  If so, where can
I get more of them, either from Hershey's or GFaK?

Thanks

J. Del Col
From: lucifer@ut-emx.uucp (Light Bearer)
Newsgroups: rec.kites
Subject: Re: Cottrell's book info needed! (Was Re: big swsk)
Date: 8 Apr 92 18:33:29 GMT
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin; Austin, Texas


Ya, me too. I suspect that there are lots of interested persons. How about
some kind and dedicated soul posting a bibliography?!

Thanks,
Dean
From: sc5@prism.gatech.EDU (CSEPLO,STEPHEN P)
Newsgroups: rec.kites
Subject: Re: How do you fix broken Spectra?
Date: 16 Apr 92 20:10:07 GMT
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology

The best way to "fix" Spectra is to splice the two broken ends together.

Use a splicing needle (i.e., no knot system needle) or a sleeving kit
wire. Splicing will be done about the same way that sleeving is done.
A crude diagram follows:


   -------------------------- One line

			----------------------------- The other line


Go through the hollow part of a line and come out of it before the end
say 6" from end, then pull the other line thru

       -----------\  6" +/-
   --------------------------------  One line
                          \-------------------The other line   


Then when one is inside the other, with two raw ends hanging out of
the line, run the splicing needle back through, grab the raw end and
pull it back inside the line


So thats three times that the line comes into the hollow of the other

Well thats probably not to clear. I wish these things drew better
or accepted files from a graphics program. Gotta go. The wind is blowing.
 
-- 

The Mad Hata  

"Hey, Mon....Tako Kichi!"
From: sasaki@sasaki.zko.dec.com (Marty Sasaki)
Newsgroups: rec.kites
Subject: Re: Life of Kevlar
Date: 16 Apr 92 15:20:33 GMT
Reply-To: sasaki@tle.enet.dec.com
Organization: Digital Equipment Co.


In article <1992Apr15.134808.8635@news.larc.nasa.gov>, wjb@cscsun2.larc.nasa.gov (William J. Bene) writes:
|>    Does kevlar have a specific lifespan?  How long should it last
|>    under normal use?

Kevlar doesn't just go bad, at least I haven't seen it deteriorate
over time when properly stored. I've got Kevlar that is over 5 years
old that I've stored in the dark and it seems just as good as new.

What's normal use? 

|>    Will salt air from the ocean affect its lifespan?  Heat? Sunlight?

I've found that Kevlar is sensitive to ultra-violet light, at least it
is more sensitive the Spectra. This means to keep it out of sunlight.
I haven't noticed any problems with heat. Kevlar isn't a
thermo-plastic like Nylon, Dacron, or Spectra.

|>	How should kevlar be stored to prolong its life?

The only thing I do is keep it in the dark.

The team lines that we normally use consist of 150 or 200 pound
Spectra with 200 pound Spectra spliced onto the ends. Almost all of
the line breaks that we experience are in the Kevlar. This could be
due to abrasion (too many kite to line collisions, but I suspect that
it is more due to breakdown of Kevlar in Ultra-violet light.

Another note warns against kinks. Kevlar falls apart when it is bent
below a certain radius (I'm not sure what this radius is). This
results in very poor knot strength, and weakness when the line is
kinked. Always pad Kevlar line before tying knots and if you can do
it, then use the no-knot system to splice an eye into the end of
Kevlar.

If you are using Kevlar to fly stunt kites with, then a change to
Spectra will probably make you very happy. Spectra is less abrasive,
isn't damaged as much by UV light and makes flying noticeably easier
than Kevlar. Spectra is much more prone to abrasive damage however,
and can be cut by any other type of line.

There is a lot to be said for flying single line kites on Kevlar. If
your kite is stable and you fly in an area prone to kids running with
their kites in all directions, Kevlar will keep you from being cut out
of the sky. I've seen multi-hundred dollar kites on dacron line cut
out by a kid with a plastic delta flying on cotton line.
--
Marty Sasaki                            sasaki@tle.enet.dec.com
Digital Equipment Co.                   Sasaki Kite Fabrications
110 Spit Brook Road ZK02-3/N30          26 Green Street
Nashua, NH 03062                        Jamaica Plain, MA 02130
603-881-0151                            617-522-8546
Newsgroups: rec.kites
From: wjb@cscsun2.larc.nasa.gov (William J. Bene)
Subject: Life of Kevlar
Reply-To: wjb@cscsun2.larc.nasa.gov (William J. Bene)
Organization: NASA Langley Research Center, Hampton, VA  USA
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 13:48:08 GMT

I bought 110lb kevlar weave lines about two years ago and haven't
had any problems.  I usually fly my kites at the beach mostly during
the summer months.  My questions are:

    Does kevlar have a specific lifespan?  How long should it last
    under normal use?

    Will salt air from the ocean affect its lifespan?  Heat? Sunlight?

	How should kevlar be stored to prolong its life?

Any thoughts would be most appreciated.  The last thing I want is
to see my kites free falling into the Atlantic!

============================================
William J. Bene
Computer Sciences Corporation
wjb@cscsun2.larc.nasa.gov
From: d_martin@engr
Subject: Kevlar source
Organization: Memorial University of Newfoundland
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 14:09:59 GMT

In article <1992Apr15.134808.8635@news.larc.nasa.gov>, wjb@cscsun2.larc.nasa.gov (William J. Bene) writes:
> I bought 110lb kevlar weave lines about two years ago and haven't
> had any problems. 

I'm looking for a source for Kevlar twine in Atlantic Canada, or maybe
a mail-order house.

Anybody have a price list and an address?   I need about  500 pound test. I usually fly my kites at the beach mostly during

       ...And a nice strong car-bumper  ;-)

> Care and feeding of Kevlar...

Try not to let the sand grains get caught up in the braid -> 
		Little buggers act like little razors, don'cha know...
Newsgroups: rec.kites
From: kite@busadm1.cba.hawaii.edu (Ben Nagata)
Subject: RE: Life of Kevlar
Summary: How to preserve kevlar
Keywords: wax!
Organization: College Business Administration, University of Hawaii
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 22:34:09 GMT

Hi,

Kevlar can be made to last longer by waxing, and this provides a minor 
degree of lubrication. Just keep in mind that kevlar seems to be heat-
sensitive.

Take a block of bee's wax (or petroleum wax used for canning fruits and 
veggies) and rub all along the line. This is best accomplished outside using 
that same nail (or peg) on that tree in the park that you used to prep your 
lines originally. take the loops on one end and hook over the nail and 
extend the line full length. Taking the wax, you run the line throught the 
wax by walking out to the end. You should change the angle of the block to 
the line frequently to get the most wax on it. Now, you take several paper 
towelsand fold them about 3 times. The last fold should be length-wise. You 
twist this around the line tightly, which has been laid in the last fold. It 
should start out twisted tight enough that the line doesn't feed through the 
twist... then you back off of the twist slightly so that the line barely 
moves through (should feel about 5-10 lbs drag). Then all you have to do is 
walk the towels out to the end. The friction melts the wax and soaks into 
the line. The paper towels are used to absorb the excess wax.

              Hope this info is of some use,
				Ben

 
Newsgroups: rec.kites
From: d_martin@engr
Subject: Re: Life of Kevlar
Organization: Memorial University of Newfoundland
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 14:04:39 GMT

In article <1992Apr15.134808.8635@news.larc.nasa.gov>, wjb@cscsun2.larc.nasa.gov (William J. Bene) writes:
> I bought 110lb kevlar weave lines about two years ago and haven't
> had any problems.  I usually fly my kites at the beach mostly during
> the summer months.  My questions are:
> 
>     Does kevlar have a specific lifespan? 

	Yes, but this is highly dependant on the environment that it is
	used and stored in.

>     How long should it last under normal use?

	 I had a set of kevlar halyards on a sailboat... they lasted 
	about three seasons of HARD use before one broke.  I'm new
	to Kites, but I'd say they would last longer there; no nasty
	winches, turning blocks, etc. to eat them up.

>     Will salt air from the ocean affect its lifespan?  Heat? Sunlight?

	None of these are good for ANY plastic as a rule; UV damage is
	the thing to look out for, though some are coated for protection.

>     How should kevlar be stored to prolong its life?

	Cool and dry, in the dark.  Try not to kink the fibres.

Hope this helps.

Dave
From: danr@crash.cts.com (Dan Rubesh)
Newsgroups: rec.kites
Subject: Re: Kevlar source
Date: 16 Apr 92 12:59:45 GMT
Article-I.D.: crash.1992Apr16.125945.23984
Organization: Crash TimeSharing, El Cajon, CA

In article <1992Apr15.140959.1@engr> d_martin@engr writes:

[stuff deleted]

>I'm looking for a source for Kevlar twine in Atlantic Canada, or maybe
>a mail-order house.
>
>Anybody have a price list and an address?   I need about  500 pound test.

You don't specify what length you're looking for, but I can supply
Kevlar (although I prefer Spectra) 500# in 300', 1000' or 3000' spools.
Also you might try High Fly Kite Co., Haddonfield, NJ (609) 429-6260.


                              Wind Wizard

Purveyor of High Quality, High Performance Stunt Kites and Accessories.
Newsgroups: rec.backcountry
From: paulf@tiamat.hacks.arizona.edu (Paul Frankentein, Bs.D.)
Newsgroups: rec.backcountry,rec.photo
Subject: Re: Backpacking camera
Date: 7 Apr 92 00:51:31 GMT
Reply-To: paulf@tiamat.hacks.arizona.edu
Followup-To: rec.backcountry, rec.photo
Distribution: usa,local
Organization: x=x^2+C
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.4-a4

In article <1992Mar31.172323.2691@rtsg.mot.com>, sagerian@delphinium.UUCP (Steve M. Sagerian) writes...
>Hello backpackers,
>Does anyone know of a 35mm SLR camera that has interchangeable lens and is 
>designed to be light weight for backpacking?  
> 
>Thanks...Stever

Well.... Olympus is known for making pretty light gear, as is Minolta. 
If you want to stay as light as possible, stay away from auto-focus SLRs.
One issue you might want to think about, depending on how much shooting 
you are going to be doing and how long you will be in the backcountry, would
be the reliability of the camera.

A really light-weight alternative might be a point-and-shoot camera with
a built-in zoom lens.

[Cross-posted to rec.photo]
-----
paulf@hacks.arizona.edu
paulf%hacks.decnet@telcom.arizona.edu
To sit in solitude, to think in solitude with only the music of the stream and
the cedar to break the flow of silence, here lies the value of wilderness.
						-- John Muir
From: pshyvers@pyrnova.pyramid.com (Peter Shyvers)
Newsgroups: rec.backcountry
Subject: Re: Lake Tahoe/Reno
Date: 8 Apr 92 17:24:24 GMT
Reply-To: pshyvers@pyrnova.pyramid.com (Peter Shyvers)
Organization: Pyramid Technology Corp., Mountain View, CA

In article <6APR199220033326@cc.weber.edu> JTAN@cc.weber.edu writes:
>Anybody know of any pristine/rugged regions
>around Lake Tahoe/Reno/Incline Village?
>

There's an interesting trail off the alpine meadows (ski area) road off
highway 89 at the northwest corner of lake tahoe that strikes north
from the road up into a valley that drops westward between alpine meadows
and squaw valley ski areas.

I haven't been back there in 15 years, but in spite of the proximity to the
lake, the ski areas, and the throb of civilization, it was dead quiet and
deserted.  The trails generally follow the drainage westward, and there are
trails that I never took that arc northwest up toward Soda Springs and
Sugar Bowl (Donner Summit).

pete

<clever disclaimer, witty saying, etc.>
Newsgroups: rec.backcountry
From: karld@caen.engin.umich.edu (Karl Diederich)
Subject: Re: Tents for tall people (was: clip flashlight)
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 92 08:22:26 EDT
Organization: U of Michigan
Distribution: na

In article <11324@borg.cs.unc.edu>, kupstas@hatteras.cs.unc.edu (Eileen Kupstas) writes:
> [Re Clip Flashlight]:
> My partner and I looked seriously at this tent, but when we got in
> it, it was just too short. My partner is 6'2" -- he already is 
> cramped in our Eureka Timberline. (I however fit just fine; in fact,
> all the extra gear in the tent goes at my feet.) 
> 
> Can anyone recommend a tent that is lightweight, well-ventilated,
> and reasonably storm-proof (we often end up in torrential downpours
> around these parts -- last about 3 hours, then they are gone. Really
> clears the trails of those wimpier campers, though :-)  but also
> lets someone who is 6'2" stretch out a bit?

My brother is 6 foot one, and I am 6 foot.  When buying a 
tent for our planned thru-hike of the PCT, we selected the 
Kelty Windfoil Ultralight.  It was not what we originally 
planned to get.  In fact, when the salesman in the store 
mentioned it, my question was, When did Kelty start making 
tents?  However, considerable use in good and inclement 
weather has proved that this choice was the best we could 
have made.  The North Face (?)Tadpole and the Sierra Designs 
Clip Flashlight were both too short for us.  The Kelty 
Windfoil Ultralight is very long.  Much longer than either 
of us.  There is plenty of room to store stuff at the head 
and foot of the tent.  The weight specification is four 
pounds eight ounces.  We found this to be fairly close.  It 
goes up very quickly and easily: it is no problem for one 
person to pitch the tent.  It has very good ventilation (for 
a tent), and we have slept through some rainy nights in it.  
It has good space between the tent interior and the fly, so 
that ventilation is improved and condensation on the inside 
of the fly does not soak the tent.  We were concerned about 
the way the floor was constructed with a seam along the 
corners, however, we have had no water come in thru this at 
all.  It has a built in vestibule, which we found much more 
useful than we had imagined.  The door is protected fairly 
well when open, so rain does not come pouring in.  There are 
many very convenient and useful design details incorporated 
into this tent.  In short, Kelty has done a superb job with 
it.  A couple things to be aware of: First, the door is 
slightly low, and you have to get used to getting in and out 
of the tent.  In part this is due to the fly awning over the 
door to prevent entry of rain.  Second, The tent does not 
have extreme width.  Although there is room enough for two 
large people with their sleeping pads, there is not room to 
stow stuff alongside the sleepers.  It is not free standing.  
However, it only requires an anchor at the head and the foot 
(cord tied to rocks, etc) and I do not consider this a 
disadvantage.  It is listed as a three-season tent.  I would 
be willing to use it in light snow conditions (less than a 
foot of expected snowfall).

Karl.  PCT 91.

Newsgroups: rec.backcountry
From: chris@chinook.atd.ucar.edu (Chris Webster)
Subject: Re: Telemark Randonne
Reply-To: chris@chinook.atd.ucar.edu
Organization: Research Aviation Facility, NCAR, Boulder, CO
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1992 14:47:49 GMT


In article 29893@dxcern.cern.ch, hordvik@suca01.cern.ch (Ulf Hordvik) writes:
>With 'randonne' bindings one can fix 'snow-knives' (freely translated from french:
>coutau a neige), to use when it's too steep for your skins. I've tried to find something
>similar for my Telemark skies, but with no success. Does anybody know about such
>a system to use with Telemark skies?
>
>Regards Ulf Hordvik.


In the U.S. you can get crampons for your Randonee or Telemeark skis.  They fit
under your boot.  I have not personally used them, but have occasionally seen
them around in the backcountry.

--Chris
Newsgroups: rec.backcountry
From: pruss@helix.nih.gov (dmitry pruss)
Subject: Re: Helicopter Access (was: Alaskan Heliskiing)
Organization: National Institutes of Health, Bethesda
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 23:09:55 GMT

In article <1992Apr13.222427.23880@yuma.acns.colostate.edu> trzyna@CS.ColoState.EDU (wayne trzyna) writes:
>In article <1992Apr13.175552.6149@tc.fluke.COM> lowell@tc.fluke.COM (Lowell Skoog) writes:
>
>>Kurt Diemberger speaks of a "barrier of fatigue" that is needed to
>>preserve wilderness. 
>>I don't want to lock people out of the
>>wilderness.  I don't even want to eliminate helicopters.  But I
>>wonder whether it is a good thing to use them as much as we do.
>>
>>This would allow me to enter
>>deep wilderness, but would put limits on just how close I could get
>>to a particular objective.
>
>While you walk, the masses will fly.
>In order to preserve the wilderness as wilderness, helipcopters, planes,
>motorcycles, snowmobiles, mountain bikes, horses, maybe even shoes must
>be banned 
>
>The term Nature Park is more appropriate than Wilderness.  The only
>remaining wilderness, if any, is perhaps in some remote sections of
>Antarctica.
>
Let's stick to a term like Nature Historic Park or so. To create such a
phenomenon, one should impose a ban not only for *vehicles*, but also for
*equipment* (modern gyres & ropes? camping stuff?
taking WT's idea, some kinds of
shoes?)

Thus we'll enable ourselves to preserve both the Mother Nature and the Old
Lifestyle.

I guess that it will be enough to have a couple of Stone Age Climbing Wild
Areas in the US; but with their appearance, our experience may become much
more diversified and fun.

Dmitry, Primitive Climber.
From: jimiii@mips.com (Jim Warford)
Newsgroups: rec.backcountry
Subject: Re: Survival skills
Date: 17 Apr 1992 20:14:01 GMT
Organization: MIPS Computer Systems, Sunnyvale, California
NNTP-Posting-Host: electron.mips.com

In article <1992Apr17.173047.23268@jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca> akarpowicz@mta.ca writes:
>
>Following the recent discussion on "getting lost" I would like to know
>what are the merits of learning survival skills in a survival school.
>I understand such schools teach how to survive indefinitely living
>off the land with no or min. equipment. I guess it could be very
>useful and would greatly reduce fear and stress of getting lost.
>Does anyone have an opinion on this?
>
 You can teach yourself in a sense.  The right time to learn is now.
When you need the skills it is too late to learn.

 Get a good book on edible plants for the geographical area where you do
most of your packing.  When you are out, look for and identify edible
plants.  If you are ABSOLUTELY POSITIVE the plant is what you think then
taste a small piece.  Even if you are wrong, the chances of getting sick
to incapacity or dieing are slim.  Better is to take samples back and 
have a good botanist or forester confirm your analysis.  Also keep notes,
mental is best, a notebook is acceptable, on the terrain where various plants
and animals are found.  Having a knowledge of where to look is as important
as knowing what to look for.

 Conversly get a book on poisonous plants of your area.  Learn to 
identify them, paying particular attention to any plants which resemble
edible plants.  Some edible plants will mimic the leaf patterns of 
poisonous plants so positive identification is essential.

 Getting a book on how to set snares to catch small animals can also
help.  Make sure it is legal if you try it.  It is always legal when
it becomes a matter of survival.  Also remember that the Native Americans
believed you should never kill a porcupine because it was the only animal
a sick or unarmed person could catch and kill.  There are no quills on 
the porcupines belly.  I have watched coyotes trying to flip a porcupine 
on its back so they could kill it.  The porcupine will roll up with its
tail underneath its belly to protect itself but the coyote usually wins
in the long run, often without getting stuck.
 When you are out backpacking look at your surroundings and visualize how
you could fabricate shelter or weapons.  Observe animals behaviour and 
look for mannerisms which may decrease their alertness.  Learn how to
identify game trails or runs and which animals use various kinds of runs.
Sit quietly on the banks of small streams and watch the fish.  If you
sit still fish and small animals will forget you are there.
 Plan now so you will have confidence when (if?) it becomes necessary
to survive off nature.  Confidence in your abilities is one of the
best ways to avoid panic when you get in a sticky situation.
 
--jimiii
 


 

-- 
 Faster horses
 Younger women 
 Older whiskey
 More money!
From: johnc@yuma.ACNS.ColoState.EDU (John Cooley)
Newsgroups: rec.backcountry
Subject: Re: Backpacking Camara
Summary: What about a wooden field camera?
Date: 10 Apr 92 16:55:59 GMT
Followup-To: rec.backcountry
Distribution: na
Organization: Colorado State University, Fort Collins, CO  80523

In article <1992Apr10.132428.28096@cbnewsm.cb.att.com> geof@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (geoffrey.a.myers) writes:
>In article <PHR.92Apr3113031@soda.berkeley.edu> phr@soda.berkeley.edu (Paul H. Rubin) writes:
>>In article <1992Apr1.155657.25319@netfs.dnd.ca> mercer@ncs.dnd.ca (David Mercer) writes:

>>   >Some of the new cameras are made of plastic and are quite light.  The

>>   Elbow River) I dont think I would ever take an electronic camera
>>   backpacking again.

>>   Had I been carrying a mechanical camera, I would have been a simple matter
>>   of desicating and cleaning, but instead all the electronics were toasted
>>   and the unit was beyond economical repair.

>>I'm not sure I agree with this wisdom, but if a lightweight mechanical
>>SLR is what you want, consider the Konica TC-X.  It has
>>shutter-priority autoexposure with trap needle metering and a
>>mechanical shutter.  It is all plastic and has the mechanical finesse
>>of a Victor mouse trap.  It is VERY light, maybe half the weight of my
>>Nikon FM.  The optics are not bad.  You can get them cheap.  It
>>doesn't seem very rugged, but light and rugged generally don't mix.

Come, come, let's get *serious* about this.  We're all tech weenies here,
aren't we ;-)?  Let's do it right!

You want light, no electronics, fantastic image quality, total flexibility?
There's only one answer:  A good folding wooden field camera.  Often, the
camera itself weighs less than 48 ounces.  Of course, the tripod, the film
holders (this thing is a 4x5, you know), and two or three lenses might add
a little to your pack.  It has no electronics whatsoever.  Not even a light
meter.  Which means any good cabinetmaker can repair it.  A good cleaning
is probably all it takes to fix a doused lens, even if it's been at the 
bottom of a lake for a week.  A good thing, too, since those fancy German
lenses cost a bundle.

So, take one of these things out and really *concentrate* on each shot.  After
all, it took you an hour of fumbling in the dark to load 12 exposures, and
you'll have $3 or $4 invested in film and processing for each sheet.  Unless
you're a True Purist (TM) and working in black and white.

So forget these winky-dink point-shoot plastic things!  Forget the SLR, which
has so many bells and whistles that it weighs 26 lbs and still only produces
a negative the size of a postage stamp.  Get a Real Camera (TM).

Seriously, one can do amazing work with a large format field camera.  It's
slow and painful, but it really helps with the Zen-like concentration needed
to compose a good landscape shot.  And the results from the darkroom are
breathtaking.

     John Cooley
     I've used a 4x5; I wish I had one and the time to use it!
Newsgroups: rec.backcountry