HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: clarke@acheron.uucp (Ed Clarke/10240000)
Subject: Habenero Pepper problem?
Organization: Ciliophora Associates
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 92 20:00:53 GMT

I planted a habenero pepper plant in a large (14 inch) pot last spring.  The
plant grew slowly in the full sun in my back yard (southern NY state) and
was in the process of fruiting when I brought it in for the winter.  A couple
of weeks ago I got my first (and only so far) pepper from the plant.

It's presently right next to a southern exposure window (triple glazed low e)
in the warmest part of my house.  Many of the older leaves are turning brown
gradually from the very tip working back towards the stem. When they get
about half way, the leaf falls off (the brown part is all dried out).  Does
this sound like a disease or is it a natural process?  There is a lot of new
growth that doesn't have any problems.  I can't see any bugs on the plant.

Ed Clarke
clarke@acheron.uucp
-- 
               |
Ed Clarke      |  I prefer not to kill animals.  I'm a humanist; I'd
acheron!clarke |  rather kill a MAN than a snake.
               |                 - Edward Abbey (Desert Solitaire)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: bae@gpu.utcs.utoronto.ca (Beverly Erlebacher)
Subject: Re: Broccoflower seeds?
Organization: UTCS Public Access
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 21:15:35 GMT

In article <Bz603J.7zC@hpfcmdd.fc.hp.com> linda@hpfcmdd.fc.hp.com (Linda Jackson) writes:
>I am looking for seeds for Broccoflower, a cross between broccoli and 
>cauliflower.  It is a real taste treat, and I would like to try my
>hand at growing it.  

"Broccoflower" is really sort of marketing hype.  It is actually just
green cauliflower, which has been around for decades.  There is also
purple cauliflower, which turns green when you cook it.  Both are tasty
and easier to grow than regular white cauliflower.

>Do any of you know of a source for broccoflower seeds?  Are there any
>mail order sources? 

Stokes Seeds sells "Alverde" which seems to be the same variety as has
been blitzing the supermarkets for the past year or two.  The also have
a couple of purple cauliflowers.  They used to have a variety called
"Chartreuse" 20 years ago, but I haven't seen it recently.

As someone else mentioned, there is also a vegetable called "romanesco"
which is related.  Romanesco varieties have the curds (edible part)
arranged in a beautiful self-similar spiral pattern, something like
spiral seashells, instead of the sort of amorphous blobby pattern in
ordinary cauliflower and broccoli.

>Thank you for your help.
>				........Linda Jackson

I recommend Stokes very highly.  Their catalog and seed packets have an
amazing amount of detailed information about practical plant physiology,
as applied to raising the plants.  Their variety description are excellent
too - they give you real info.  Instead of purple prose about how luscious
a variety is, they tell you specifics about its resistance and susceptibility
to various diseases and weather problems, whether it is uniform-ripening or
not, what type of soil it prefers, whether it is best for processing or fresh
eating, etc.  This lets you pick varieties based on which diseases are a
problem in your area, what kind of soil and climate you have, what you plan
to do with the crop, how often you want to sow and harvest it, etc.  The
catalog also states how many seeds there are per packet, which I find very
useful in figuring out how much to order.

I don't have any connection with Stokes except that I've ordered from them
for about 20 years, as well as from other companies.  The catalog is free,
there are request postcards in most gardening magazines.  They have a U.S.
office in Buffalo, for which I lack the exact address, but their Canadian
address is Box 10, St.Catharines, Ontario, Canada.

Perhaps someone can post the U.S. address, and/or comment on their own
favorite seed sources, and why they like them.

Beverly Erlebacher
Toronto, Ontario Canada
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: cl27111@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Christopher  Lindsey)
Subject: Re: Small vines
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 01:15:29 GMT

	Kay, you mention Wisteria macrostachya in a post to someone about
vines; do you know of a nursery source for it?  The only place that I've
ever seen one is the Morton Arboretum, and I haven't found it listed in
Anderson's...  I haven't been actively looking either :) but if I can find
one with minimal effort, then I think I've got a spot for one...

Thanks

Chris.

Christopher Lindsey -- Dept. of Landscape Architecture, Univ. of Illinois
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Cats
From: rudy@witt.almanac.bc.ca (Rudy Witt)
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1992 20:35:40 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Merit Technologies Ltd.

Hi!

I have a problem with my neighbours cats.  They seem to think that my yard
is a toilet.

Is there a humane way to discourage the cats from coming onto my property.
I live on half an acre.  Mostly grass.

thanks in advance

rudy
-- 
Rudy Witt                          Internet:  rudy@witt.almanac.bc.ca
Merit Technologies Ltd.               Voice:  604-245-4746
Ladysmith, BC.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
From: bj368@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Mike E. Romano)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Nettles
Date: 19 Dec 1992 02:17:20 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


I am interested in growing nettles as a food and herb.
I think the common species is Urtica Dioca (not sure).
Anyone know of a company that sells seeds for this?
thanks

mike


-- 
Capt. Kirk: let's head for that planet, third from the sun, it
            looks promising.... |-)
From: jane@soave.swdc.stratus.com (Jane Beckman)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Bird feeding (was Re: 1)
Date: 16 Dec 92 01:54:31 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Stratus Computer, Inc., San Jose, CA

>>So far I've put out suet and black sunflower seeds (oilers).  I saw a blue 
>>jay yesterday but it didn't land--any ideas what they like?  What do 
>>cardinals like?  Is there a special feeder for these birds?  I do have 
>>squirrels in my back yard & they eat everything in sight if the food isn't 
Jays are suckers for anything with peanuts.  Your squirrels
could be a problem, as they will steal whole peanuts, which
the jays favor.  However, some of the seed mixes with small
pieces of peanuts are less attractive to squirrels.  Jays also
like the LARGE (striped, not black oil) sunflower seeds.  I
have jays that scoop up sunflower seeds, then top the load
with a peanut, before flying off.

>Also, some birds will come under an overhang and some won't.  
>Cardinals and jays won't.  Blue jays are pretty wary (htey're related to 
>crows) and he may have sen you behind the window and decided to come back 
>when you were'nt there.  

Maybe BLUE and STELLERS jays, but scrub jays will come right
into your living room, if you offer them the proper bribe,
like a large peanut in the shell.  (You may suspect I have a
large amount of experience with this.)  Once they get in the
mood for hustling peanuts, which doesn't take long, scrub jays
will come take peanuts out of your hand very readily, and can
be enticed to porches, into houses, etc.  As a matter of fact,
they are sometimes known to knock on the window and demand
peanuts, if you're not forthcoming.  Stellers jays are more
timid, but I've still gotten them onto the porch within a few
feet of humans, before being chased off by the scrub jays, who
resented them stealing *their* peanuts.

Be warned that while it's very gratifying to have jays take
peanuts out of your hand, it won't be long before they're
demanding peanuts morning, noon, and night.

Humans are SO trainable!
--
  Jilara   [jane@swdc.stratus.com]

"The field of pseudo-science hasn't progressed much in ten
years, except to gain access to the net." --from ca.earthquakes
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: cl27111@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Christopher  Lindsey)
Subject: Re: Small vines
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 16:05:15 GMT

Bob Klebba <nicmad!klebba%astroatc.uucp@spool.cs.wisc.edu> writes:

>Subject: Small vines
>From: Val Gillman, Val.Gillman@altern8.mi.org
>Val.Gillman@altern8.mi.org writes:
>>Does anyone know of a small vine -3 to 5 ft- that doesn't need
>>much sun? I'd like to train it over my garden gate which gets an
>>hour sun in the morning and an hour at night.  Annual or
>>perennial.  Ivy was dissapointing last year.  Wouldn't grow.
>>Zone 5. Thanks

>Although I haven't been in one place long enough to grow one, the climbing
>hydrangea (Hydrangea petiolaris) is supposed to be a rather nice, shade 
>tolerant vine.  Dirr recommends it highly in his Manual of Woody
>Landscape 
>Plants.  Specimens I have seen have indeed flourished in the shade.

	One thing to bear in mind, however, is that it is a VERY slow-growing
plant...  It also will become over 80' long with time...

	A very similar plant (I don't know the final size, though), is
Schizohphragma hydrangeoides, or the Japanese Hydrangea vine.  It is much
flatter when climbing trellises, etc (Hydrangea anomola subsp. petiolaris
sticks out 3' from the climbing surface), and the inflorescences are much
droopier and relaxed.  
	Another possibility is Lonicera prolifera, or Yellow honeysuckle, 
which is native to your area...  It won't flower much in the shade, but the
leaves are an ornamental blue-green with the stem coming through the middle
of the leaves like a shish-kabob (can't remember what it's called right now).

Chris

Christopher Lindsey -- Dept. of Landscape Architecture, Univ. of Illinois
From: jane@soave.swdc.stratus.com (Jane Beckman)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Gardening gifts (was weather swap)
Date: 16 Dec 92 23:36:11 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Stratus Computer, Inc., San Jose, CA

>This must be Eglantine, the briar rose or sweetbriar, botanical name
>Rosa eglanteria.  Try Heirloom Roses in Oregon if you can't get a
>local nursery to order it for you from one of their sources.  It's
>common in Europe, but maybe not in the U.S.

Heirloom Old Garden Roses also carries several of the
"Penzance" hybrid sweetbriars from the turn of the century.
These expand the color range of the standard pink sweetbriar.
Lady Penzance has lovely buff-colored flowers with a tinge of
pink.


--
  Jilara   [jane@swdc.stratus.com]

"The field of pseudo-science hasn't progressed much in ten
years, except to gain access to the net." --from ca.earthquakes
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: dweber@ncsa.uiuc.edu (Daniel Weber)
Subject: Re: Prairie Projects
Originator: dweber@kankakee.ncsa.uiuc.edu
Reply-To: dweber@ncsa.uiuc.edu
Organization: National Center for Supercomputing Applications
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 16:06:29 GMT


In article <1gjdlmINNf5j@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>, br105@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey A. Del Col) writes:
|> Anyone interested in growing prairie plants should get in touch with the
|> folks in charge of the Prairie Project at Fermilab (Fermi National
[stuff deleted]
|> Give them a call--they should
|> be reachable through Chicago information.
|> 
|> Jeff Del Col      *   DECONSTRUCTION--- the critical method invented      

Just for clarification, Fermilab is in the 708 area code (Batavia, IL), not
the Chicago 312.

If you get a chance to go by there, do so.  I grew up a few miles from
Fermi and it is amazing.  The prairie is no long restricted to the inner
ring, but has spread (naturally or by hand?) to the surrounding forest
preserve and is quite attractive come Fall.  The wildlife is rather abundant,
and they even have a herd of buffalo.

Prairie restoration seems to have quite a following in that area.  If you're
in the area, check out the restorations at the Great Western Trail bike path
south of LeRoy Oaks FP in St. Charles.  (Modesty prevents me from telling
you who helped plant some of it years ago when it was still STC High School's
project.  :-) )  It's small, but has a high density of native plants vs.
european weeds, in addition to a plot of original prairie hidden in the back.
The local chapter of the Nature Conservancy should also be able to point you
to other restorations, native plots, fens, &c.  If anybody wants the phone 
number for them, drop me email and I'll dig it out.

-daniel weber
dweber@ncsa.uiuc.edu
From: jane@soave.swdc.stratus.com (Jane Beckman)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Broccoflower seeds?
Date: 16 Dec 92 23:55:14 GMT
Organization: Stratus Computer, Inc., San Jose, CA

They don't call them by that name, but Stokes Seeds has them.
They are listed as Broccoli/Cauliflower under Cauliflower.
They have two varieties: Alverda and Chartreuse II.

Stokes Seeds Inc
Box 548
Buffalo, NY 14240

--
  Jilara   [jane@swdc.stratus.com]

"The field of pseudo-science hasn't progressed much in ten
years, except to gain access to the net." --from ca.earthquakes
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: npm@dale.cts.com (Nancy Milligan)
Subject: Potted vegetables, ideas needed.
Organization: Titan Linkabit Corporation
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 18:38:15 GMT

I'm an apartment dweller in San Diego,  and I've discovered the joys 
of gardening by growing vegetables, and a few flowers, in pots.  I have 
3 nice peppers (2 anaheim and a jalpeno), a perky herb garden and a 
few flowers.  I'm looking for other ideas for vegetables to plant
this winter, or early spring that'll do well in my patio.
My patio doesn't get much direct sunlight.

Thanks!

--
Nancy P. Milligan 				npm@dale.cts.com
Titan Linkabit					cts!dale!npm
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: ramirez@julia.math.ucla.edu (Alice Ramirez)
Subject: bromiliad questions
Organization: UCLA Mathematics Department
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 92 05:07:42 GMT

During a very weak moment several months back I picked up about 7
varying types of bromiliads in bloom.  Very pretty they were until
my cat decided it was nice to sit on them.  But I digress.

The blooms have gone, and I understand that, once gone will never return.
Any new blooms will have to come from the "pups" coming out from the
sides.  (I am talking about the kinds with deep green leathery leaves.)

Ok.  Do I separate the pups from the original plant?  If so, how?  Do I
break them off at the base and allow them to grow their own roots or
slice down to get some of the parent roots?  (rather violent to the
parent plant, it seems)  Once I have the pups rooted, however it's done,
how do I get the new plants to bloom.  THey are quite spectacular in 
flower, rather dull otherwise. I dimly recall placing the mature bag
in a plastic bag with a ripe apple.  Is there a better way?
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Prairie Info Update
Date: 16 Dec 92 10:06:49 -0600
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

In article <BzCy25.FKA@news.cso.uiuc.edu>, dweber@ncsa.uiuc.edu (Daniel Weber) writes:

re: establishing prairie from transplants:
> The transplanting involved growing hundreds of plants in peat pots, planting
> them all by hand in another previously plowed section of field, watering and
> weeding throughout their first year of growth.  This gave much better results
> with a higher density of forbs to grasses, but was a *lot* of work, especially
> in the hot sun without trees (the biggest drawback to most prairie work 8-( ).

Naw, ya just put on your sunbonnet or french foreign legion hat and bring
PLENTY of cold drinks....

Transplanting prairie has had a really mixed record of success, probably
depending on when and how and who was doing the transplanting.  Prairie
plants have deep and extensive root systems, and often go in to root
shock when established plants are dug and the digger quits after excavating
only 3 or 4 ft down... ;-)

Transplanting from greenhouse grown seedlings is by far preferable, but again,
the initial growing is a LOT of work.  

One of the slickest methods I've seen for transplanting prairie that was
slated for bulldozing was by use of one of those giant clamshell treespades.
Did a great job of getting the roots!

Iowa State University Landscape Architecture department did a *spectacular* 
prairie border in front of the  College of Design in honor of a retiring
prof who taught thousands of landscape designers to use native species
in their plantings.  The border was done ENTIRELY with transplants from
1 to 3 gallon cans (they wanted flowers NOW) and is about 90% forbs
and only 10% grasses (contrary to the usual restorations or a native
prairie).  Marvelous color from early spring to late fall, and I've heard
several visitors (who didn't know that they were at the prairie border
instead of the Horticulture Garden) remark that here was _finally_
a prairie that wasn't just a bunch of weeds...  (yes, I siezed the
opportunity for a bit of "Extension Education" 8-)  )

Kay
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Broccoflower seeds?
From: thacker@rhea
Date: 19 Dec 92 17:12:23 MDT
Reply-To: thacker@rhea
Organization: Alberta Research Council

In article <BzBKDz.7oC@gpu.utcs.utoronto.ca>, bae@gpu.utcs.utoronto.ca (Beverly Erlebacher) writes:
>
>I recommend Stokes very highly.  Their catalog and seed packets have an
>amazing amount of detailed information about practical plant physiology,
>as applied to raising the plants.  Their variety description are excellent
>too - they give you real info.  Instead of purple prose about how luscious
>a variety is, they tell you specifics about its resistance and susceptibility
>to various diseases and weather problems, whether it is uniform-ripening or
>not, what type of soil it prefers, whether it is best for processing or fresh
>eating, etc.  This lets you pick varieties based on which diseases are a
>problem in your area, what kind of soil and climate you have, what you plan
>to do with the crop, how often you want to sow and harvest it, etc.  The
>catalog also states how many seeds there are per packet, which I find very
>useful in figuring out how much to order.
>
>The catalog is free,
>there are request postcards in most gardening magazines.  They have a U.S.
>office in Buffalo, for which I lack the exact address, but their Canadian
>address is Box 10, St.Catharines, Ontario, Canada.
>
>Perhaps someone can post the U.S. address, and/or comment on their own
>favorite seed sources, and why they like them.
>

I agree with your comments on Stokes.  Their real specialty is vegetables,
their flower selection is pretty good, but Dominion seeds offers a better
selection of flowers.  Stokes has an amazing number of varieties of each
vegetable, I forget exactly, but I think there are about 60+ varieties
of corn, and over 100 tomatoes, etc.  They also give an excellent 
selection of cold tolerant varieties, so I can easily grow sweet corn
in Edmonton.  I got my spring seed order from them in the mail this week.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: kjp@well.sf.ca.us (Karen Paulsell)
Subject: Re: Two Questions
Organization: Whole Earth 'Lectronic Link
Distribution: usa
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1992 22:36:12 GMT

I haven't tried using a 'wick' system to water plants while I'm away, but
you can set containers of water up, higher than the plants, and run wicks
from the water so that they drip into the containers. Wicks can be any
absorbent string or even strips of cloth. I played with the idea, and the
concept does work, with a piece of string, I got a slow drip, drip, drip
from a jar of water.
From: Bob.Batson@mtask.omahug.org (Bob Batson)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: WANTED: Disa seeds or seed sources
Date: 17 Dec 92 14:45:11 CST
Reply-To: bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org
Organization: Multitasking Systems, Kansas City
Followup-To: rec.gardens

del_col@ab.wvnet.edu writes:

 > Okay, orchid fans, can anyone provide the names and addresses of sources
 > for seed of Disa uniflora and/or its hybrids...........................

                              [TEXT DELETED]

I found some mail-order sources for Disa seed, but all are rather far from
you, in South Africa. All will ship to the U.S. and all have minimum order
amounts. 

        RUST-IN-VREDE NURSEY                    [CATalog - FREE]
        P.O. Box 231                            [MIN. ORDer - $15]
        Constantia, South Africa 7848

Specializes in the seeds of South African bulbous plants and diso orchids.
--------
        NOOITGEDAG DISA NURSEY                  [CAT - GREE]
        7 Sunybrae Road                         [MIN. ORD. - $20]
        Rondebosch, Cape, South Africa 7700

A hobbyist specializing in seed of Disa orchids: uniflora, tripetaloides
and cardinalis and hybrids -- Veitchii, Diores, Kewensis, Watsonii,
Kirstenbosch Pride and Langleyensis.
--------
        CAPE SEED & BULB                        [CAT - $2, deductible]
        P.O.  Box 4063, Idasvalley              [from 1st order]
        Stellenbosch, Cape, South Africa 7609   [MIN ORD. - $40]


*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*

Bob Batson                   | "Deck us all with all with Boston Charlie, 
bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org  |  Walla, Walla, Wash., and Kalamazoo!"
From: jhb@calmasd.prime.com (Jim Bishop)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: iceplant from cuttings?
Date: 11 Dec 92 04:49:21 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: -

In article <1992Dec9.213344.14816@donner.SanDiego.NCR.COM>, 
davel@booboo.SanDiego.NCR.COM (David Lord) writes:
> Can I start iceplant (Purple Trailing) from cuttings? If so what's
> the best way to do it?

Just cut some off and stick it in the ground.  Keep it moist and it
will root by spring.  It roots very easily.  If you don't have a lot
available for rooting, you can always root it in potting soil first
and plant it out where you want it later.  This will improve your
chances of survival.

Jim
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Small vines
Date: 16 Dec 92 14:53:19 -0600
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

Val.Gillman@altern8.mi.org (Val Gillman) writes:
> Does anyone know of a small vine -3 to 5 ft- that doesn't need
> much sun? I'd like to train it over my garden gate which gets an
> hour sun in the morning and an hour at night.  Annual or
> perennial.  Ivy was dissapointing last year.  Wouldn't grow.
> Zone 5. Thanks

Boy, if I were in zone 5, I'd be growing Wisteria macrostachya,
kentucky wisteria, with panicles of laveder blue flowers in June.
It's tolerant of almost everything except really droughty soil.
The only drawbacks I know of from your perspective are that it
gets 20-35 ft tall at maturity if you don't prune, and it doesn't
transplant easily-- you should coddle it a bit.

Kay Klier  Biology Dept  UNI