HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: eur@dutncp2.tn.tudelft.nl (Eur van Andel)
Subject: Handbrakes /discbrakes
Summary: How to make discbrakes mechanical?
Keywords: How does a handbrake work on discs?
Organisation: TU Delft, The Netherlands
Organization: Delft University of Technology
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 13:10:08 GMT

Dear netters

After spending some time under my two Alfa's (with inboard rear discs)
I wondered how the general solution is for braking with the handbrake
on rear discs. Since I only drive rotten old $200 cars, none have ever
had rear discbrakes. :-)

The Alfa system is a disaster: some treaded rod pushes only
the inner pad to the disc, which _bends_ to make contact with the outer pad.
(no joke) You have to adjust the pads with stupid screws and locknuts
to set them close (0.004") to the disc.

This made me wonder how other bguys do this. Lying under an Alfa 164 in
the street, I saw to my amazement exactly the same system, but now
mounted on the rear bearing/wheel holder (fusee in French/Dutch).

How is it done? How do you move the slave cylinder mechanically?


eur
From: bense@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ron Bense)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Fan belts w/teeth
Date: 26 Aug 92 12:23:25 GMT
Reply-To: bense@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ronald Bense)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.autos.tech, tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen) writes:

>here's the problem: the old ones have teeth in them (actually,
>the teeth are so wide that it would be more accurate to say that
>the belt has slits in it).  the new ones don't.

>catalog.  is there something i'm missing here?  what the hell are the
>teeth for?

They're cogged belts. The slits relieve stress in the belt to help them
serve a longer, reliable life. The multi-ribbed belts do a real contortionist's
act around all the pulleys, which really places a lot of stress in the
belt. The cogs, or slits, reduce bending stresses as the belt curves
and recurves.

Ron

Potassium Benzoate included as a preserver.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: romansks@unvax.union.edu (Steve Romanski)
Subject: MIG welder or ARC welder - suggestions for auto work
Organization: Union College, Schenectady, NY
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 12:21:21 GMT

I would like to start doing some auto repair and fabrication. Things like
sheet metal repair, mabey installing subframes, welding up roll cages etc.

Is their any suggestions for which welder is better. Can the same jobs be done
or certain jobs not be done with either one. Any expereince with any 
brands etc....



----------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: wlsmith@valve.heart.rri.uwo.ca (Wayne Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Brakes
Date: 31 Aug 92 13:41:49 GMT
Organization: The John P. Robarts Research Institute, London, Ontario

In article <1992Aug31.130938.4234@mlb.semi.harris.com> jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger) writes:
>
> As far as loss of braking power with altitude, if you have a vacuum booster
>(power brakes) you will see a drop in vacuum at altitude because the ambient
>pressure is lower. If your brakes are marginal you'll see it then. Your idle
>vacuum may be even lower than normal due to (a) and the mixture error also
>due to (a) can drop it even more. 

The effect on vacuum pressure vs altitude probably isin't linear, but
on a trip I took once on the SkyLine drive in West Virginia, my normal
idle vacuum at sea level was 20 inches Hg, and at 3600 ft it dropped to
17.5 or 18 inches Hg.
From: jesse@terapin.com (K. Young)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Honda 87 Civic starting problems
Date: 2 Sep 92 17:21:24 PST
Organization: BBS


Anyone have any ideas what's going on???

My 1987 Honda Civic 4 door is having difficulties starting up in the mornings
or when sitting 12-14 hours.  I recently bought it in to my Honda dealer for a
30.000 mile maintenance schedule which cost me $329- tuneup, fluids changed and
etc...

Problem:  Before I bought the car in, starting car in the morning the fast idle
would rise 1800-2000 RPMs for a mere couple seconds and drop- car dies! It'll
always start on the second try.  After the car is warmed up I put it in gear
and drive off, sometimes it would stall like it's going to die!

After the repairs:  It seems okay, the car would start up immediately but the
fast idle would rise only to 1500 rpms MAX!  I didn't mind as long it started.
Couple weeks later it gose back to the original problem!  Even worse now that
my Fast Idle is screwed at 1500 RPMs for a few seconds and die! It'll start on
the second try RPMs would reach 1900-2000 RPMs max.  My other option in
starting on the first try would be holding the fast idle by stepping on the gas
for a few seconds.

The Honda dealer would inspect it again if I pay a $69 fee!%$#@!

I tried cleaning the choke on the carburerator but to no avail!

Suggestions???

From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Handbrakes /discbrakes
Date: Thu, 03 Sep 1992 08:10:24 -0500

 EV> After spending some time under my two Alfa's (with inboard rear discs)
 EV> I wondered how the general solution is for braking with the handbrake
 EV> on rear discs. Since I only drive rotten old $200 cars, none have ever
 EV> had rear discbrakes. :-)

The Alfisti say you should _avoid_ using the handbrake on your model Alfas.

 EV> The Alfa system is a disaster: some treaded rod pushes only
 EV> the inner pad to the disc, which _bends_ to make contact with the outer 
 EV> pad.

I find that hard to believe. More likely, the outer piston is frozen.

BTW, did you receive my message re your Delft junkyard?
From: yp@cbnews.cb.att.com (yagnesh.pathak)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: caravan Catalytic Convertor
Keywords: resonator 31K
Date: 31 Aug 92 17:11:52 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T


I am the second-owner of Chrysler caravan minivan - its Grand LE and has 
31K miles on it. It seems its catalytic convertor needs to be 
replaced and I think it is covered under the warranty but even the 
resonator has gone bad(which is not covered)! 

Isn't this unusual? This is my first Chrysler auto and may be the last. 

Anyone out there in netland have had such premature problems with their 
vans? I did buy my van from a dealer in Dec 91 with 24K miles on it - may be 
the odometer have been tempered with?!

Any tips will be appreciated.

Thanks

Yagnesh Pathak
yp\@cbosgd.att.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mwbg9715@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Mark Wayne Blunier)
Subject: Re: Exhaust Manifold Stud Removal
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 16:42:17 GMT

>The first thing I would try is a... stud remover!  This is a round
>metal tool with a small hole for the stud.  Turning the tool with a
>ratchet wrench causes a cam to clamp the stud in place as you turn it.

>Or, you could thread two nuts onto the stud, and then try to remove the
>*inner* nut with a wrench.  If the outer nut doesn't slip, the stud
>should start turning instead.

>If that doesn't work, you could try using a pair of locking pliers,
>although that would probably mangle the threads.

  Another more difficult but a method that does would would be to weld
  a washer onto the stud.  Then weld a nut onto the washer.  Then turn
  the stud out.  A washer is welded onto the stud first instead of the
  welding the nut directly, so that you dont bugger up the head in the
  process.

  mark
From: cjb+@pitt.edu (Christophe J Bogdon)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Chevy Cavalier Windshield Wiper Switch went bad!
Date: 1 Sep 92 20:17:56 GMT
Organization: University of Pittsburgh

I have a 1988 Chevy Cavalier with ~60,000 Miles on it.  A couple weeks
ago I seen smoke come out of my steering column near the turn
signal(windshield wiper) switch.  Now my windshield wipers only work on
the high position.  The dealer want $150 to replace.  Is this easy to
do?  Has anyone ever tried it before?  I might buy a repair manual and
try it myself.  Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

Chris

+-----------------------+---------------------------------------------+
|Christopher J. Bogdon  |   cjb@vms.cis.pitt.edu - INTERNET           |
|PC Center              |   cjb@pittvms.bitnet   - BITNET             | 
|Univ. of Pittsburgh    |                                             |
|315 S. Bellefield Ave. |   "Sing a Happy Polka"                      |
|Room 204               |      from the CD "Get Energized" by Energy  |
|Pittsburgh, PA 15260   |                                             |
+-----------------------+---------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: wlsmith@valve.heart.rri.uwo.ca (Wayne Smith)
Subject: Re: Exhaust Manifold Stud Removal
Organization: The John P. Robarts Research Institute, London, Ontario
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 18:33:11 GMT

In article <1992Aug28.160252.16115@news.cs.brandeis.edu> andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang) writes:
>>
>>I have a broken exhaust manifold stud frozen in my aluminium head.  The
>>stud piece is about an inch long.  I have tryed liquid wrench and some 
>>vibration to try and loosen it.  Does any one know how to remove it ?
>>Thanks
>>Tom Z
>>

Get a stud extractor (I don't know if that's the right name or not).
It looks like a spark plug socket, but it's got 3 rods in it that grabs the
stud when you turn it.  They usually come in a box set of 4 or so.
You can also use it to put a new stud in.  1" should be enough for it to
grab onto.   It's a cool tool, and it doesn't wreck the threads.

From: borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 15:56:01 GMT
Subject: Re: Can oxygen gauge meter fuel pressure?
Organization: Hewlett Packard Company, Spokane, Wa.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

Thanks to all who have e-mailed my a reply to my question.

The answer is:  Do not get oil into the gauge or even on the threads if
it is to be used for oxygen service, as the oil and oxygen my go boom!
That is what the 'use no oil' refers to.

Some have suggested that I erase any reference to oxygen from the gauge,
just in case someone else gets their hands on it.  I certainly will do this
when I build my test jig.

Thanks all!


Donald Borowski    WA6OMI    Hewlett-Packard, Spokane Division
"Angels are able to fly because they take themselves so lightly."
                                       -G.K. Chesterton
From: exusag@exu.ericsson.se (Serena Gilbert,cs,x0364)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Plymoth Sundance (89) Engine Problem
Date: 25 Aug 92 22:03:37 GMT
Reply-To: exusag@exu.ericsson.se
Organization: Ericsson Network Systems, Inc.

My car has started to make an obnoxiously loud knocking noise in the engine (please 
excuse my direction of noise as I don't know too much about cars).  The noise is
coming from where you put the oil in on the left side on top.  I have just had the 
engine (or whatever that is) taken apart by a mechanic.  When he first heard the
noise he thought it was a rocker arm, but it wasn't, so he checked the other usual
parts that would cause such a noise (piston, and quite a few others I don't remember)
but he can still not find what is cause the noise.  The noise is steady and doesn't 
change rhythm, but gets louder the faster you go.  It even makes the noise while in
neutral. 

If you have any suggestions to what it could be please E-mail me.

Thanks,

Serena (Getting the impression that the micro chip is program to make that obnoxious noise at 70748 miles so you trade your car in)
From: tmcdonal@ringer.cs.utsa.edu (Tom McDonald)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: inspections
Date: 1 Sep 92 02:11:23 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Texas at San Antonio

In article <1992Aug28.191517.23066@pica.army.mil> tcora@PICA.ARMY.MIL (Tom Coradeschi <tcora>) writes:
>So why not go down to the
>junkyard and blow 50 bux on a used cat, and help clean up the air (or
>at least keep it from getting any more foul)?

Can you do this in certain parts of the country?  In Texas, all the yards
I've visited have signs informing you that you can't purchase a used cat. 
conv.
						-Tom
-- 
Okay, one more time.  This is your brain. (egg)
This is your brain on drugs. (egg in frying pan)
Any Questions?
"Yeah, can I have mine scrambled?"
From: jas20@duts.ccc.amdahl.com (John A Sigmon)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Any Toyota 22RE Performance Mods?
Date: 26 Aug 92 22:45:23 GMT
Reply-To: jas20@DUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (John A Sigmon)
Distribution: USA
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

Hi,
I have an '86 4-Runner with a 22RE engine.  I am looking for any smog-
legal (California) power performance mods.   If you have any ideas or
sources please let me know at the above email address.
Thanks in advance.
John Sigmon
**********************************************************************
Standard Disclaimer
**********************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sbender@navajo.dsd.es.com (Steve Bender)
Subject: Re: IROC smokes on start
Organization: Evans & Sutherland
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 92 23:03:21 GMT

In article <1992Aug27.164356.19492@icf.hrb.com>, amk@icf.hrb.com (Andrew M. Kissel) writes:
|> In article <1992Aug25.210108.24712@ncrcae.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM>, kent@lightnin.Columbia.NCR.COM (Kent Richardson) writes:
|> > Just wondering if any other Camaro owners have the same problem I do with the
|> > car smoking a lot at startup. The amount it smokes seems to increase relative
|> > to how long the car has sat without running(i.e. next day-smokes a little, 
|> > after a week-smokes a LOT). I was wondering what this is and if anything can
|> > be done to stop it. I think it may be dirty injectors?? The engine is a 
|> > 305 cubic in. (5.0L) with Tuned Port Injection. If it is'nt the injectors I 
|> > don't feel like getting a $50 injection purge. 
|> > 
|> 
|> Same problem here!!!! In fact, my neighbors IROC does the same thing as well!
|> Your not alone here. When I get more info, I'll post to this news group. Its
|> definately oil burning, but it not too bad. Yet! 
|> -- 

Oil is making its way past the valve guides and into the combustion chambers (or 
exhaust ports)... This is typical of an engine that has worn valve guides and/or 
needs the soft rubber valve-guide seals to be replaced.  The seals can often be 
replaced (with care) without removing the heads... fixing the valves/guides 
themselves involves removing the heads but is not an entirely daunting task.

-- 
Steve Bender
Evans & Sutherland
(801) 582-5847
Salt Lake City, UT 84108

sbender@dsd.es.com

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: Unusual Tire wear - "scalloping", Why?
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 92 07:42:04 GMT

Glenn Stauffer (stauffer@cc.swarthmore.edu) wrote:
: I've noticed an odd wear pattern on one of the rear tires of my Toyota
: Celica that has
: caused the car to become excessively noisy.  The tire tread has worn so
: that it is scalloped
: against the direction of rotation - the tread is raised in the direction
: of rotation and
: then dishes in.  Each tread section appears to be worn like this.  The
: car was returned to
: the dealer who found nothing wrong - at the time, I complained of
: excessive road noise, but
: hadn't recognized the tire wear.
: 
: Thanks

Have your dealer check the 4-wheel alignment.  Perhaps you slid into 
a curb or something, and bent your rear axle/suspension/strut/whatever.

This might not be warrantee, if they can claim you are at fault, though.

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.
hinzd@picard.med.ge.com
From: George_Lin@mindlink.bc.ca (George Lin)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Mildew odors from ventilation system.
Date: 31 Aug 92 07:15:58 GMT
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada
Distribution: world

I've been thinking about how to eliminate and prevent mildew build up.
(I don't have AC (convertible) so I can't confirm this, but...)

Method #1:
1) Try a slow air intake rate.
2) Then spray Lysol outside so that it is drawn in with the outside air.
   (The vent should be below the windshield wipers)
3) shut of the air (or have someone else do it) so that the Lysol can settle.

Method #2:
1) With the air off, spray Lysol directly into the vents (backwards air flow).

Preventing Build Up:
1) Before stopping the car, turn off the AC, and let the system warm up a bit,
with the airflow on full (but AC off) so water will condense and build up.


--

 -------------------------------------------
| George Lin                  | 145.270 MHz |
| George_Lin@mindlink.bc.ca   |   VE7FKU    |
 -------------------------------------------
From: gavin@aquila.csis.dit.csiro.au (Gavin Walker)
Subject: Broquet: Fuel Catalyst
Organization: CSIRO Division of Information Technology
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 05:24:22 GMT


From an newspaper article:

In Australia over 50% of the cars still run on Super Leaded fuel.  A fuel
catalyst called broquet would allow these cars to run on Unleaded fuel 
with no damaging side effects.

The AUS$120+ treatment is added to the fuel system an is supposed to last
400 000km.  The manufacturer, and some owners, claims the following benefits
to both leaded and unleaded cars.
  - Improved combustion resulting in greater power (9% at full throttle),
       reduced exhaust emissions and improved fuel economy of the order of
       7-12%.
  - Longer engine life
  - Reduced gumming of Valves and injectors

The substance if based on tin and has been widely used in Britain and 
some European countries.


- Standard disclaimer applies
-- 
  _--_|\                    Gavin Walker
 /      \                   CSIRO Division of Information Technology
 \_.--.*/ <- Canberra,      Walker@csis.dit.csiro.au
       v     Australia      Phone +61-6-2750964     Fax +61-6-2571052
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kevins@eng.auburn.edu (Kevin Sullivan)
Subject: swirl marks in clear coat
Organization: Auburn University Engineering
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 14:50:59 GMT


I recently bought a 1989 Plymouth Voyager.  The paint is a metalic 
medium blue clear coat and the hood has what appear to be swirl marks  
from the previous owner's attempt at polishing.  Is there anything I 
can do about this, short of having the hood repainted?  I don't think 
that color match polish would work too well with metalic clearcoat.

Thanks, 
Kevin Sullivan
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: drew@ophelia.cs.colorado.edu (Drew Eckhardt)
Subject: Brakes
Organization: University of Colorado at Boulder
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 07:41:11 GMT

1.  Is having both cylinders on a dual master cylinder fed together (ie,
	through a + connector which then feeds front and rear brakes) 
	acceptable?  

	What is the normal configuration for a dual master?  With
	one cylinder feeding front, the other rear?  If this is the 
	case, then how much is front/rear brake bias affected by 
	different master cylinders? 

2.  I drove up to a friends house at ~8000 feet over the weekend. 
	At ~5000 feet my brakes work fine.  At ~8000 feet, when 
	still cold, they had almost no stopping power.  This is 
	defined as "If I was idling in gear, and had the brake pedal 
	all the way on the floor, I didn't really slow down." 

	Back down to ~5000 feet, and everything was fine again.

	Our last weekend camping trip was up a > 12,000 foot pass 
	(single lane 4wd road with no guard rails, hair pin
	turns, etc) (I wasn't driving :-) ) so this is something 
	I need to figure out "real soon". 

-- 
Microsoft is responsible for propogating the evils it calls DOS and Windows, 
IBM for AIX (appropriately called Aches by those having to administer it), but 
marketing's sins don't come close to those of legal departments.
Boycott AT&T for their absurd anti-BSDI lawsuit.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: harling@pictel.com (Dan Harling)
Subject: Re: Exhaust Manifold Stud Removal
Organization: PictureTel Corporation
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 17:49:01 GMT

In article <1992Aug27.131102.29223@mnemosyne.cs.du.edu> tzing@nyx.cs.du.edu (Tom Zing) writes:
>
>I have a broken exhaust manifold stud frozen in my aluminium head.  The
>stud piece is about an inch long.  I have tryed liquid wrench and some 
>vibration to try and loosen it.  Does any one know how to remove it ?

The first thing I would try is a... stud remover!  This is a round
metal tool with a small hole for the stud.  Turning the tool with a
ratchet wrench causes a cam to clamp the stud in place as you turn it.

Or, you could thread two nuts onto the stud, and then try to remove the
*inner* nut with a wrench.  If the outer nut doesn't slip, the stud
should start turning instead.

If that doesn't work, you could try using a pair of locking pliers,
although that would probably mangle the threads.
____________________________________________________________________________
Daniel A. Harling                        (harling@pictel.com)
PictureTel Corp.             Opinions expressed are not necessarily those of
Peabody, MA  01960                 PictureTel, but they ought to be!
From: jongsma@esseye.si.com (Ken Jongsma)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Best type of wipers?
Date: 1 Sep 92 12:35:16 GMT
Reply-To: jongsma@benzie.si.com
Distribution: usa
Organization: Smiths Industries

In <9209010158.AA21293@ncsuvx.ncsu.edu> PNCSPPC@CCVAX1.CC.NCSU.EDU writes:

>I've never been happy with how well my windshield wipers work.  I've tried
>several different brands (standard single blade) over the past few years,
>but that didn't seem to make much of a difference.  Since I have to get my
>car inspected soon, and I need new wiper blades, I thought I might try once
>more to solve this problem.  Do the "European-style" double wipers work any
>better than single-blade wipers?  Also, has anyone tried the new
>"triple-blade" wipers that supposedly never wear out?  Since my Usenet
>newsgroup access is variable I'd appreciate replies by e-mail.  Thanks.
>

I've been very unhappy with the generic discount store blades and only
marginally happy with ANCO regular blades. But! ANCO sells a premium
blade ("gold"?) that is really good. It's only available as a complete
assembly, not as a refill and goes for about $7 per side.

People here have reported severe streaking problems with the multi edge
refills. I wouldn't waste my money on those...

Ken 
-- 
Ken Jongsma                                          ken@wybbs.mi.org
Smiths Industries                               jongsma@benzie.si.com
Grand Rapids, Michigan                      73115.1041@compuserve.com
From: v087mxgb@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (Shawn E Thompson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: IROC smokes on start
Date: 28 Aug 92 01:45:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <1992Aug27.230321.29477@dsd.es.com>, sbender@navajo.dsd.es.com (Steve Bender) writes...
> 
>Oil is making its way past the valve guides and into the combustion chambers (or 
>exhaust ports)... This is typical of an engine that has worn valve guides and/or 
>needs the soft rubber valve-guide seals to be replaced.  The seals can often be 
>replaced (with care) without removing the heads... fixing the valves/guides 
>themselves involves removing the heads but is not an entirely daunting task.

good geuss but thats not it.....I thought that too, cuz I had
that problem. My friend has an IROC with the same symptoms,
I suggested valve guides.


Actually it was a plugged oil-feed return line, poor design
and common in all these models...



Shawn E. Thompson                         | Project Engineer/Mgr  (716)891-3375
v087mxgb@ubvms.cc.buffalo.edu             | Leica, Incorporated
University @ Buffalo                      | PO Box 123
Graduate School of Mechanical Engineering | Buffalo, NY 14240-0123
------------------------------------------+-----------------------------------
"Nothin ever grows in this rotten old hole, and everthing is stunted and lost..
and nothin really rocks n nothin really rolls and nothin's ever worth the cost"
                                                               --- Meatloaf
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech