HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: cliff@watson.ibm.com (cliff)
Subject: Follow-up to Octagon Tower Question
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 13:42:02 GMT
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: A

I 
have a pentagonal tower tank -- just like your octagon.  I use
a AquaClear 200 and an underground filter.  It's been in operation
for a year.  Fish healthy.  Never cleaned it except for the
filter media changes.  Never changed the water.
 
The only problem with this tank is that it's hard to get a fish
out if it dies, so I only use hardy species and don't experiment.
That's why I'm getting a 110 gallon rectangular.
 
The tower tank does look very impressive.
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:6613 alt.aquaria:4649
From: konrad@mace.cc.purdue.edu (Bill Konrad)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: RUGF Power head Recommendations?
Date: 19 Aug 92 23:15:49 GMT
Followup-To: rec.aquaria
Organization: Purdue University

In article <404@bertha.HyperDesk.com> arch@hyperdesk.com writes:
>I have a 35 gallon hex with a crushed coral bed-based UGF.  I use a
>Aquaclear 201 power head on one lift tube and am now using an
>air driven lift tube as well.
>
>Because I'm sick of my high nitrate levels, I'm thinking of converting
>to a RUGF system.  My hope is that the Aquaclear 200 power filter will
>end up sucking in most/more of the detrius and I'll be able to remove
>it with filter (floss) changes.

I don't really know that RUGF gives more or better nitrate
removal than regular UGF. But I like RUGF on my tanks so far. It does
make vacuuming the gravel easier.

>
>What should I use for power head(s) on the drop (formerly lift) tubes?
>Should the input side of the powerheads be filtered?

If you're planning to us a single powerhead, I'd recommend using as
powerful as practical. I have the smallest model of Penguin (a 501 I
think) on a RUGF in a 29g, and the effect is barely noticeable. The
same model on a RUGF in a 10g is perfect. 

As for filtering the intake, I'd say it is absolutely unequivocally
necessary. Otherwise you'll end up with gunk getting trapped
underneath the filter plates which is precisely what you want to avoid
by using RUGF--the gunk is supposed to be pushed up from the gravel
to be filtered out by a power filter. You don't want that gunk getting
sucked underneath the plates. 

As for alternating the flow as your pet store owner suggests. It
sounds like dubious advice to me. Why bother alternating? If the RUGF
setup works, just leave it. 
-- 
Bill Konrad
konrad@mace.cc.purdue.edu
From: frazier@maxwell (Greg Frazier)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Using peat to lower pH - How to?
Date: 17 Aug 92 19:37:41 GMT
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4

lee@coredump.npac.syr.edu (Lee C Brink) writes:
: In article <22850@hacgate.SCG.HAC.COM> frazier@maxwell (Greg Frazier) writes:
: 
:    If your water has a lot of buffering capacity, the peat isn't
:    going to do diddly.  That is to say, not until you have used
:    A LOT of it.  And then you'll do a water change and start all
:    over again.  I think your fish may appreciate the peat, but
:    don't expect to see a major pH change.
: 
: Unfortunately, I'm not a chemist by trade.  From what I understand, buffering
: capacity is the ability of the water to resist pH changes.  And if I also
: remember correctly, this has to do with dH.  If that is correct, then is
: a 120 ppm Ca a large buffer for pH swings?

Well, there are two measurements of hardness - general (total)
hardness and carbonate hardness (GH and KH).  Both can be measured
in parts per million (ppm) or in degrees hardness (dH - note that
there is a difference between Engligh dH and German dH, with the
German generally being used).  I believe that the buffering is
performed by the carbonates in solution, so your ppm Ca doesn't mean
much in that regard.

: 
: Also with water changes, should the water to be used for the water change be
: soaked with peat, to reduce the pH swing?

That would be a very good idea.  In fact, this would reduce or
eliminate the need to have peat in the filter itself.

:    If the peat has been in the filter for any length of time, dollars
	    ^^^^ I meant carbon!
:    to donoughts the "chemical" properties of the carbon has been used
	^^^^^^^^^ doughnuts, of course...
:    up, and it has become passive bio-filter media.  Check your package,

--


Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier
From: mstephens.520@postman.gsfc.nasa.gov (mark stephens)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Algae bloom from trace elements
Date: 17 Aug 92 16:26:31 GMT
Organization: nasa/gsfc

I might have been responsible for the silicon theory but it was for 
"beard" algae and the theory is probably, hopelessly wrong.  My beard
algae was just a tank startup fluk.  It had it's hey day for about a month 
and I've never seen it since.   Wish I could say the same for the green
thread algae!  That algae is definitly tied to nutrients, trace or other
wise. I would not stop using the trace elements in my tank, but I do
try to watch what I put in there.  


In article <CMM.0.90.2.713924614.jrk@division.cs.columbia.edu>, jrk@division.cs.columbia.edu (John R. Kender) writes:
> 
> Anyone else ever get a really wretched bloom of hair algae (the
> absolute worst kind, impossible to remove even mechanically, that even
> snails won't touch) after adding trace elements?  Now, about six
> months later, it is finally dead, although it nearly wiped out a patch
> of valisneria by growing on it and killing it.  I seem to recall
> someone posting a theory that hair algae need silicon and will die
> once it is depleted (and probably went after the val to get the silicon
> the val picked up, too.)  BTW, I never noticed any appreciable effect
> of the trace elements on the good stuff (val, crypts, acoris, etc.).
> They ought to call it algae food.  Comments, anyone?
> 
> John
> 
> 
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: russell@sun.soe.clarkson.edu (David Russell)
Subject: Re: more Fish People
Organization: Clarkson University
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 1992 17:09:15 GMT

From article <1992Aug14.171634.4295@Cadence.COM>, by bruceg@Cadence.COM (Bruce Gustifson):
>   This thread has me curious as to what other hobbies other fishy
> folks might have. Could be this might offer some insight as to
> what sort of people we are. Myself, my other hobby (and a serious
> one at that), is rock climbing. Live rock...NOT!
> 
  Mine is fishing, catch and release only, in the summer and Skiing
in the winter, or just being outdoors, preferable near water. I like
walking shore lines and checking out the local creatures.
--
David M. Russell, Mechanical Eng. Dept.
Clarkson University, Potsdam, NY 13676
(315) 268-9806 
russell@sun.soe.clarkson.edu
From: frazier@maxwell (Greg Frazier)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [F] Red Lobster
Date: 20 Aug 92 16:18:03 GMT
Distribution: usa
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4

goo@cbnewsb.cb.att.com (frank.m.macauda) writes:
: 
:  I was wondering if anyone on the net can give me some
: information on a creature I saw today at a local fish     
: store. They had it labelled as a fresh water Red Lobster.
: It was about 6 inches long with a mottled red shell.

It is called a crayfish or a crawdad, depending on what
part of the country you are from.  They live in freshwater
streams (or creeks or cricks) all over the U.S.  They
are basically scavengers, but are more than willing to
eat a fish if they can catch it.  If you are going to
catch one of these beasties, the two options are to put
a cup behind it and then scare it (they swim backwards),
or to reach in and grab its back from behind the
pincers - just in case you feel like going out and catching
your own.  They can deliver a rather nasty pinch (surprise,
surprise), but can't cut your skin or anything.
 
:  Would this beast be compatible with some small African
: cichlids? Where does it come from? What environmental
: and dietary requirements does it have? I want one but
: not at the expense of disrupting my current population
: or risking it's life and $9.99.

I doubt that it is compatible.  Even if your cichlids
don't try to eat it, it'll try to eat them.  Crayfish
can live in almost any water, will eat pretty much
anything, including <some> vegetation.  Being invertebrates,
they are probably sensitive to Cu in the water, but then,
I've seen them thriving in an artificial creek that was
iron-staining the rocks in it.

--


Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier
From: "chuck filson" <chuck.filson@canrem.com>
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: prefilters for canist
Date: 22 Aug 92 20:07:45 EST
Reply-To: "chuck filson" <chuck.filson@canrem.com>
Distribution: rec
Organization: Canada Remote Systems

In message: <1992Aug20.124622.19522@shearson.com>
            stu@mbsdev24 ( Stuart Bernstein ) wrote:

SB>  I am using a Cannister filter for my 55 gallon Community Tank.
SB>  Will a prefilter help the filter media last longer on the Canister ?
SB>  Is it worth buying ?  Is there anyone on the Net with a Canister and
SB>  prefilter ?

  I am currently running 3 Eheim cannister filters. One does not have a
prefilter and it requires cleaning (replacement) of the floss portion
of the filter about 3 or 4 times per year.

  The other two have the Eheim pre-filter installed and they both require
cleaning of the prefilter every 4 to 6 weeks, but other than that they
have been in non-stop use for over 2 years now.

  Given a choice, I would use the pre-filter. Eheim's is simply a wad of
plastic pot scrubber material in a plastic cup that is connected to the
filter's input line.

Chuck
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario/Detroit, MI
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: jamesb (James Bahn)
Subject: Re: Fluval Filters
Organization: The Santa Cruz Operation, Inc.
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 19:04:46 GMT


In article <3V0ePB1w164w@saviour.UUCP> sf@saviour.UUCP (Sam howard     ) writes:
>Hi.
> 
>I currently have a 75 gal. with a couple of Oscars and 1/2 dozen
>Tin Foil barbs, and ...well...they're kinda messy eatters...  ;)
>
>right now, I am running two Wisper 3 power filters, but those darn
>fish are going to run me broke just changing the filter pads!!!
>
>So, I am contemplating a canister filter -- the Fluval 303 (about
>$60US mail order)...any comments about said filter?  is it too big?
>is it too small
It's not too big.  Keep in mind that changing the filter material
in the Fluval is definitely more work that slipping in a new pad
on a Whisper.  Count on the quick-change valves breaking after your
second or third use.  Count on buying some hose clamps as well.

>I was going to replace one of the Wisper 3's with the Fluval, should
>I replace both, or none?
>
>How about other types of canister filters?  Enheim, etc?
>
>Thanks,
>Sam.
>
>p.s. - if no one minds putting up with replies on the net, that is
>easier for me (I can read news at work, just can't post...) but if
>you'd rather send private e-mail, I won't complain!  ;)
>
>=============================The Saviour System ==============================
>==================1 (914) 452 5538 ------ Open 24 hours a day ================
>                         sf@saviour.UUCP (Sam howard     )
From: frazier@maxwell (Greg Frazier)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: , Aquarium backings
Date: 17 Aug 92 17:01:52 GMT
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4

rivan@bnr.ca (Robert Ivan) writes:
:    Forget the paint idea.  Any plastics shop can provide you with
: a variety of colours of acrylic. 
..
:  Depending on the size required and thickness it shouldn't be more then
: 20 - 30 dollars ( there is a wide variety in prices between stores so

Good grief!  Construction paper works great!  If you happen
to trash it (i.e. spill water on it), it takes 2 minutes and
pennies to replace.  I use it on my tanks and, believe it or
not, have never had to replace one.  $30 to back a tank?
Somebody has more money than they know what to do with... :-)

--


Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: mattk@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (matthew.kaufman)
Subject: Re: [F][W] Heater,themometer, and lighting questions.
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 13:51:08 GMT

In article <1992Aug17.180538.29721@rtsg.mot.com> ferrer@rtsg.mot.com (Arnold S. Ferrer) writes:
>I know this kind of question has been asked before, but...
>1) How many watts does a heater have to be for a 30 gallon tank?
>   In the FAQ, it states 2.5 watts per gallon. So for a 30 that
>   would be 75 watts. But in a book that I have it says 10 watts
>   per 1.25 gallons, making it 240 watts for a 30 gallon. Well,
>   which on is it 75 or ~240?
Amazing. That's the most ridiculous recommendation for wattage I've ever
heard. 10 watts per 1.25 gallon? Was this book written by the electric
company or by a heater manufacturer? Perhaps these were outdoor tanks being
kept in the artic tundra somewhere, but the FAQ recommendation if anything
is a bit high (depends on the room and the delta between tank temp
and room temp). I *generally* use what the FAQ says (in those tanks I bother
to have heaters in.)
>2) Which brand heater is good? Visi-Therm, Hagen, Otto, Supreme?
I've had best experiences with Ebo-jagers over visitherm and supreme 'heetmasters'.
>   Are these okay to get? Which one do you suggest and why?
>3) Which type and brand of thermometer is the best to get for
>   the aquarium?
One that works. I like the one I bought recently with the built-in hydrometer.
Just make sure it's accurate. I don't care for the stick-on ones, on that's
in the water is fine.
>4) I'd like to put 2 24" 20 watt flourescent tubes on top of my
>   freshwater tank. Lets say I just have the lights, what else do
>   I need to put the whole thing together? The hood that came with
>   the 30 gallon tank only had room for 1 tube. It was one of those
>   full hoods from Perfecto.
What size tank? Do you want plants? etc. etc. In a 30 gallon tank, normal
cheap bulbs, 2 will not be enough for 'high-light' plants. So, the question
is, why not stick with the existing bulb and keep easier plants that
don't need much light (java fern, java moss, anubias nana).
-- 
"I am the chosen one."  | Copyright 1992 mattk@usl.com. Permission for
                        | reproduction in printed media or by pay-for-read
"And I Choose to be     | services explicitly disallowed. Permission granted to
shopping!"              | USENET and like free facilities.
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:6474 alt.aquaria:4592
From: igorl@uiuc.edu (Igor Livshits)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: Summertime overheating
Date: 13 Aug 92 21:42:42 GMT
Organization: NCSA
X-Xxdate: Thu, 13 Aug 92 22:36:12 GMT
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d7

My apologies, the previous post was chowed by my editor...

I was having overheating problems with my 55g tank and MH and actinic
bulbs.  I cannot  afford a chiller (nor the power bill for it).  So, I
bought a $25 electric desk fan that blows air over the water surface of
my tank.  This keeps the system confortably cool.  At times, the
temperature is as much as 5 degrees lower than room temperature.

Igor
From: fred@mks.com (Fred Kratky)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Trickle filter
Keywords: For Pat Hogan
Date: 18 Aug 92 12:35:13 GMT
Organization: Mortice Kern Systems Inc., Waterloo, Ontario, CANADA

Pat.  I couldn't get this through to you by mail.


>Fred,
>       What are the dimensions of your wet/dry filter
>       that you (so diligently) illustrated in
>       req.aquaria?  Do you use DLS for the bio-
>       media?  What are the dimensions?  Any idea
>       what type of flow rate you get?  What type
>       of pump are you using?  Sorry for so many
>       questions, but I'm gearing up to build one
>       myself for a 90 gal tank.  Thanks!  Pat.
>
Dimensions: 22" x 11.5" x 11" outside Diameter

I holds ~ 3 gal. of biobals

Pump is a little giant MDS2 410 gph @ 4' head

Drip plate is 1/2" plexi 'cause I got it for free.

The dimensions are unusual so that it fits into a confined space under
my tank.  The sump is designed to hold ~10 gallons of water and holds 3
while running.  I wanted 5 gals extra capacity for overflow during power
outages and an extra 2 gals on top of that just to be sure.

The media is all inside the main chamber instead of a tower because of
hight restrictions.

the pre-filter is on top of the drip plate because that was the most
convenient.

I have a micro switch wired to a float in the sump to shut off the pump
when the water level gets to low.  the little giant cannot run dry!

Hope this helps.  If you have more questions, ask away.




-- 
     ||  // // ,'/~~\'   Fred Kratky		fred@mks.com 
    /||/// //|' `\\\     Mortice Kern Systems Inc.     (519) 884-2251
   / | //_// ||\___/     35 King St. N., Waterloo, Ont., Can. N2J 2W9
0_/                       

-- 
     ||  // // ,'/~~\'   Fred Kratky		fred@mks.com 
    /||/// //|' `\\\     Mortice Kern Systems Inc.     (519) 884-2251
   / | //_// ||\___/     35 King St. N., Waterloo, Ont., Can. N2J 2W9
0_/                       
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: harold@wam.umd.edu (James B. Harold)
Subject: Re: CO2 notes
Organization: University of Maryland, College Park
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 22:01:05 GMT

In article <1992Aug12.165703.2107@ultra.com> jimh@ultra.com (Jim Hurley) writes:
<...>
>
>I have had the water directed to flow across the surface of
>the water, but the thing I changed was to direct the water
>more downward, into the tank. This made the plants sway
>a little.
>
>The interesting thing is that now the plants are bubbling O2
>at a ferocious rate, the tank almost appears to be seltzer
>water. They always bubbled, but not like this.
<....>

Mmm.  Another thought is that you could have increased the
O2 level in the tank.  When I turned on my surface skimmer/sump
setup, my plants reacted by bubbling more.  I took this to
mean that my water wasn't O2 saturated before (and the O2
from the plants therefore just went into solution), but that
by the time the water went through the surface skimmer,
gurgled down the pvc and swirled around in the sump that it
was saturated.  Hence the bubbles.  

Of course, I don't have an O2 test, so I can only spout
theories..  :-)  But then, I'm a theorist.  That's my job. 
Let the experimentalists by the test kits :-)  :-)  :-)

James Harold
harold@wam.umd.edu

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: tom@dynamo.ecn.purdue.edu (Tom McCain)
Subject: Re: Excelerated Acropora sp. Coral Growth
Keywords: stony coral reef marine
Organization: Purdue University, West Lafayette, IN
Date: 12 Aug 92 15:12:22 GMT

tse@ra.nrl.navy.mil (Anthony Tse) writes:

: jamieo@gbrmpa.gov.au (Jamie Oliver) writes: 

: >There are a few things I'd like to set straight here:

: >First - zoxanthellae only ever have a dark golden brown colour. The more
: >zooxanthellae there are per unit area of tissue the dirker borwn the coral
: >becomes.  In low light conditions corals generally become darker brown,
: >while in high light conditions they are much paler since they need fewer
: >zooxanthellae to meet their nutritional requiremnts.

: OK, this brings up a bunch of questions I've been meaning to ask.

: >Any colours other than brown ARE NOT DUE TO ZOOXANTHELLAE, but are caused
: >by animal pigmments synthesised by the coral. By and large the function of
: >these pigments is totally unknown, but they tend to occur more often in 
: >corals from a well lit environments. 

: 	What about elagent, hammer corals and most clams?  There is not a
: single speck of brown in my tank except on the mantle of one T. Derasa.
: For that matter, my pink brain is completely red.  Are there other
: symbotic algea out there that are not brown?

I've always been under the impression that if a coelenterate has
either blue, green, brown or beige color have zooxanthellae algae.
However, that is not to say that the zooxanthellae is blue, green,
brown or beige.  Also I believe that the colors of purple through red
to orange and yellow lack zooxanthellae.

: 	Next question is, green light is consider to be useless in
: photosynthesis, one easy explanation is that the color of plants is
: green, therefore, most of the green light is reflected and not used.
: Blue light is considered to be very important in a reef tank, however,
: most T. Maxima and T. Crosea clams are purple/blue, so most of the
: blue light is reflected and not used.  What give?

Good question.  It seems that a lot of tank raised tridacna clams do
not have the intense blue and purple colors that clams in the wild
have.  I don't know why but I'd like to.  I think clams are a bit
different with their symbiotic algaes in that they will ingest them if
they are hungry...?  Maybe Jamie can clarify this since he has
probably seen or studied his share of T. gigas.
--

Tom McCain 
tom@ecn.purdue.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: bruceg@Cadence.COM (Bruce Gustifson)
Subject: Re: Okay, I'm really serious now!
Organization: Cadence Design Systems, Inc.
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 20:34:17 GMT

In article <1992Aug13.232415.12858@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> lkern@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Leesa J Kern) writes:
>About two years ago I got a 10 gal. tank from my boyfriend for my birthday.  
>Now, after buying 3 books, a subscription to AFM, and some trial-by-error 
>learning later, I've gotten rid of the boyfriend and become completely devoted
>to aquarium fish keeping.  (Got my priorities straight! :)
>
>Anyway, I've decided to chuck the bright red gravel and plastic plants for the 
>real thing ... natural brownish gravel and some real plants.  I realize 10 gal.
>is not good for plants, but any larger tank would not be good for my checking 
>account, so ....
>
>What kind of plants would work in a small freshwater tank?  I know this 
>
>Anyway, as I said it's a cheapy 10 gal. (cheap boyfriend), which has a heater, 
>Leesa
>
>
    I sugggest you get a boyfriend that is also a plant, that way you
can kill 2 birds with one stone.
>Leesa J. Kern                          lkern@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu

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