HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: mucit@cs.rochester.edu (Bulent Murtezaoglu)
Subject: weak spark?
Organization: Computer Science Department University of Rochester
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 22:30:32 GMT


Car: 81 rabbit with 1.7l FI (engine changed by the prev. owner)

Symptoms: Hard to start when cold, white smoke in the exhaust (incomplete
combustion?), no coolant or oil loss.  I usually have to crank the engine
for 10 s. or so with partial throttle in 30 degree weather.

What I've checked: Cold start valve (ok), cold start thermo time switch 
(replaced, helped some), played with the mixture adj. (gets worse with 
the adjustment tweaked either way).
I also checked the output from the ignition coil.  While the spark jumps
at a 7-8mm distance, it is yellow regardless of the distance.  The price
for a new coil: $44.  So here are the questions:

Is a yellow spark normal?  I was expecting light blue.
It is surprising that the ign. coil would go bad, has it happened to anyone?
I've checked the wiring in the ignition system and it appears to be fine,
could it be the control unit?  What else could be causing the cold start
problem?  One interesting observation is that the engine sound improves
when the O2 sensor system kicks in.  I've checked the duty cycle of the
frequency valve, and it falls when the lambda system kicks in.  Leaning
out the mixture initially doesn't work though.  I also suspected something
in the O2 sensor circuit was improving the spark energy somehow (thru weird
grounding problems), but the spark stays yellow even when the engine is 
warm.

The only other possibilities I can think of are the aux. air valve 
(not really a candidate 'cos I can simulate it's operation by partially 
opening the throttle valve) or the control pressure regulator (no way to 
check w/o an expensive pressure gauge), or an odd bend in the air flow 
sensor coupling.  I was too lazy to check the spark plugs for color.

I'll get a coil from a junkyard tomorrow.  I'd appreciate comments/advice
in the meanwhile though.

Thanks.

-Mucit
From: wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: WINTERTIME
Date: 5 Nov 1992 18:41:05 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: thor.ins.cwru.edu


Hey, Drew, why don't you get an air-cooled,  then you won't have to
worry about anti-freeze!

:-) :-) :-)   (between my chattering teeth 'cause it's snowing in
Cleveland and I ain't got no heater boxes so I need the anti-freeze in
my body)

Bill
-- 
William Claspy			Case Western Reserve University
Internet- wpc@po.cwru.edu
MaBellnet- (216) 368-3595
From: ti@bazooka.amb.org (Ti Kan)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: VW service in San Jose, Ca area?
Date: 11 Nov 92 08:01:12 GMT
Reply-To: ti@bazooka.UUCP (Ti Kan)
Organization: AMB Research Labs, Sunnyvale, CA.

In article <1992Nov10.205857.12524@netnews.synoptics.com> ericd@synoptics.com writes:
>
>I am looking for a VW dealer for service on my car in the San Jose area. 
>
>I am interested if you have had any good OR bad experiences with any particular 
>dealer in the area.
>

I recommend New Dimensions in Santa Clara (408-980-1691).  Although
New Dimensions is not a VW dealer, their mechanics are VW-factory
trained and certified.  They are also a water-cooled VW/Audi exclusive
shop, very-much performance/enthusiasts-oriented, and know these cars
inside-out.  They charge a competitive rate, and use only OEM or better
quality parts.  They are also an authorized Bosch service center.

Check them out.  I think they are better than the dealer.

-Ti
--
    ///  Ti Kan                vorsprung durch technik
   ///   AMB Research Laboratories, Sunnyvale, CA. USA
  ///    ti@amb.org
 //////  ...!{decwrl,synopsys,tandem,tsoft,ultra}!sgiblab!bazooka!ti
///      ...!{uunet,sun,apple,sco}!altos!bazooka!ti
-- 
    ///  Ti Kan                vorsprung durch technik
   ///   AMB Research Laboratories, Sunnyvale, CA. USA
  ///    ti@amb.org
 //////  ...!{decwrl,synopsys,tandem,tsoft,ultra}!sgiblab!bazooka!ti
///      ...!{uunet,sun,apple,sco}!altos!bazooka!ti
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: squiec@jec321.its.rpi.edu (Craig L. Squier)
Subject: 16V in my bunny`
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY
Distribution: rec.autos.vw
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1992 04:46:06 GMT

 I need the help of the might gurus.....
 I own a 83 rabbit convertible.
 I just got a 16V from an 87 GTI with the whole FI system and wiring harnesses
 and everything. I want to install it in the bunny. I'm not worrying about the different FI layout I'll just move thongs around on mounts I'm gona make.
 I have some questions:
 1)Is the best exhaust setup using the downpipe and manifold off a 16V
   scirocco and fabbing a TT 2" exhaust back from there? any ideas?
 2)I`m gonna use the 16V close ratio G-box, is changing the drive flanges from
   my 90mm box into the 100mm 16V box hard? ideas?
 3)Exactly how should I hook the Golf KE-Jetronic F.I. into my K system.
   what goes in and what goes out? Do I need the fuel transfer pump?
   Can I use the Fuel pump in my bunny already?
 4)Are the engine mounts from a 16V scirocco all I need to bolt it down?
 5)Is the shift linkage in my car cool to hook to the 16V box?

 If anyone out there knows any answers you can either post or e-mail me.`
 There are probably quite a few people who are interested in this changeover.
THANKS>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From: nils@jhunix.hcf.jhu.edu (Nils Gokemeijer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Good Mechanic Recommendation
Date: 11 Nov 92 16:46:52 GMT
Article-I.D.: jhunix.1992Nov11.164652.13964
Organization: HAC - Johns Hopkins University, Baltimore

In article <1dp9gqINN6a3@morrow.stanford.edu> HF.SXM@forsythe.stanford.edu (Sara MacGilvra) writes:
>
>Anyway, the place is
>
>Eurotech
>37350 Cedar Blvd. Suite L
>Newark, CA 94560
>
>(510) 794-6582
>fax (510) 794-9210

Howabout starting a list?
Does anyone know one near Baltimore MD?

-Nils
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: eliot@lanmola.engr.washington.edu (eliot)
Subject: Re: Castrol Syntec & Mobil 1 Question
Organization: clearer than blir
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 16:05:35 GMT

In article <92308.154343UD180274@NDSUVM1.BITNET> Roger A. Huggins <UD180274@NDSUVM1.BITNET> writes:
>Has anyone had any experience with the Castrol Syntec?  All
>comments and suggestions greatfully received!  Thank you!

i will be trying my first sumpful shortly.  the viscosity range is certainly
much more attractive than mobil 1.  the parts store is also selling it for
just a tad less than mobil 1.  ($3.94 vs. $3.99)

the vw/audi dealer here also peddles the stuff.. for $6.75 a quart.  i
guess if they sell it and recommend it to customers they are
indirectly endorsing it.  after all, they do tell people not to use
bosch platinum plugs.


eliot
From: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: European spec Corrado VR6
Date: 8 Nov 1992 19:10:20 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, eliot@lanmola.engr.washington.edu (eliot) says:


>>rather than an answer, 
>>i have another question which would be nicely answered
>>right alongside..what parts do the new v6's share with the old fours??
>
>in a word, none.  go look at audi's 2.8 V6, and you'll find lots of
>common parts.  ironic, eh?

ah..i see..well..at least they used SOMETHING sort of modular like..this
makes sense to me...i mean..why should they cast (forge???) 5 different
pistons, just because they need five different sizes of motors?..they could
use the same valves, pistons, etc..ah well. i suppose they all think that
they have their own reasons for whatever they all do..thanx!  VW is making 
more sense than i thought(i didn't know that audi had a 2.8 v6  for VW to 
use parts from!) thanx!
DREW

-- 
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
?????????????????????????????????-----whatever!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: hollen@megatek.UUCP (Dion Hollenbeck)
Subject: Re: Smogging a Bug
Organization: Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 20:31:15 GMT

>>>>> On 12 Nov 92 05:47:00 GMT, mgb5528@cc.utah.edu (MICHAEL G. BECK) said:
Mike> News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.4-b1

Mike> In article <92316.152740CMS@psuvm.psu.edu>, <CMS@psuvm.psu.edu> writes...
{Title says it all.   Anybody have any information of
{smogging a Bug?    Say a 1966.

Mike> I don't think it could be done.  But I don't even think that it
Mike> needs to be done.  Where are you, California?  I think that
Mike> pre-'68's don't have to bother about smog tests....  I may be
Mike> wrong, but I don't think so....

1)	1966 imported cars in California MAY be exempt from smog
	certification, but 1967 surely are not, firsthand knowledge
	of having to get a cert every other year.

2)	IF this is in Calif., the only requirements are that the
	crankcase be closed (breather run back into carb) and that
	the emissions requirements are  met.

I have a 2110cc with dual two barrel 40mm Weber DCNFs, and as such, a
larger engine with MUCH more breathing capacity than stock should put
out a lot more emissions.  The emissions standards were designed for
aa 1500cc engine with dual single barrel 32mm Solex carbs.  I can
easily pass smog cert if I have just recently had a tune up.

All emissions standards are based on the model year and standard
displacement engine, and if you have not messed around with it too
much, you should be able to pass if it is good working order.


-- 
Dion Hollenbeck       UUCP: {uunet, ucsd, sun}!megatek!hollen
                      INTERNET:            hollen@megatek.com
Megatek Corporation  9645 Scranton Rd.  San Diego, Ca.  92121
From: rll@frieda.mitre.org (Roberto L. Landrau)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: big alternators - tiny belt
Date: 11 Nov 92 15:37:29 GMT
Organization: Research Computer Facility, MITRE Corporation, Bedford, MA

In article <921109.110252.amiller@almaden.ibm.com> amiller@almaden.ibm.com (Alex Miller) writes:
>Right now I limit myself to 100w/150w H4s in my main headlights and
>130w in my fog lamps.  When I add Rallye-2000 cornering lights with
>130w  bulbs my voltmeter starts reading below 12V.  By the way, there
>are 100w/170w H4 bulbs and 160w H1/H3 bulbs available - you'll need
>10g direct wiring with relays unless you want to burn up your dashboard.

What kind of lens are you using with the 100w/150w?  I have always
wondered how much power I can use with the large Hella rectangular
lenses.  Right now, I am using 80w/100w (with relays, of course), but
I wouldn't mind 100/150 or 100/170, since I do most of my driving at
night.


--
The opinions stated above are not necessarily my employer's.
----------------------------------------------------------------
Roberto L. Landrau    KC1YP    landrau@mitre.org  rll@linus.mitre.org
The MITRE Corporation  Bedford, MA 01730          rll@linus.UUCP
Xref: sparky rec.autos.vw:6241 rec.autos.tech:15074
From: darrellm@pogo.wv.tek.com (Darrell McGinnis)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw,rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: replacing CV boots on 77 Audi 100
Keywords: CV boots
Date: 6 Nov 92 20:16:30 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.vw
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Wilsonville,  OR.


Well, I decided to do inner & outer CV boots at the same time.


I had a few replies commenting that I should use split boots.

Admittedly, an 77 Audi 100 is a dying bread & I can't find any
split boots. 


I purchased the inner boot kits & they come with new 8mm bolts
for holding the CV to transaxle. These are a 6mm allen (6pt)
type head, so I picked up a good 6mm allen socket.

The boot kits were $12.50 per boot  & come with tubes of the 
moly EP(extended pressure) grease.

I picked up a couple of extra tubes for lubing the boots.


I also broke down & bought a CV boot band crimper tool,
this tool crimps the raised segment of the band, pulling the band
tight. (The ratchet part of the band is for a gross fit)

This was only $18 & it will come in handy down the road
for my 100K+ FWD tempo. 
None of the rental/parts shops had this for rent.

So I'll report back after the weekend with a followup to the work.

thanks for the help.
darrell mcginnis
From: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: gti headlight
Date: 8 Nov 1992 19:15:40 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, mferdows@aludra.usc.edu (Mehrzad Ferdows) says:

>quick question.... I recently bought a 92 GTi16v and have been looking to
>make some modifications to it.. I've been looking like crazy to find
>yellow high beam lights (the inside two lights on the front grill), coz I
>thought that theyd look kinda neat... anyone know where I could find any
>or have any nice ideas on doing a similar thing? cheers.
France is the only place that i know of where yellow lights are used.  However,
i do not know where you live, but in most states, i think, they are considered
illegal(i do not think that it is a federal law, though) as they are considered
FOG lights, to be used only during adverse conditions...others will hook you
for having tinted headlight(s)(covers) which, according to most, is not a good
idea, as they cut down on light emmission and are unsafe (yes, they will 
ticket you no matter whether this is true or not)..my suggestion, stick w/what 
you have.  If you just want the tint look, i think hella imports(or someone
imports for hella??) a blackout headlight kit that might fit your application
and does not cut down on available light, as they are tinted in the opticaly
zero points (ie..the places that do not emmit light anyway).  check that out,
as they may only make them for Passat..on the other hand, if you do not live
in the US..beats the crud outta me!
DREW

-- 
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
?????????????????????????????????-----whatever!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: roy@well.sf.ca.us (Roy Harvey)
Subject: Info on Bus Campers - Buying Used
Organization: Whole Earth 'Lectronic Link
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 00:06:12 GMT


I'm looking into to purchasing a used (or even new) VW Camper Bus.  Any
comments, reflections, or advice would be much appreciated.  I'd also
consider refurbishing a older camper bus if someone could point out the
problem areas.  Thanks much!

Roy Harvey
roy@well.sf.ca.us
(415) 903-9120 H
From: dali@stein.u.washington.edu (David A. Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Final about Re: Importing
Date: 10 Nov 92 01:06:04 GMT
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle

In article <1992Nov8.192953.11607@bsu-ucs> 01ksdavis@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu (Rebel without a clue.) writes:
>
>	One last thing.  There is a reason other than the environmental one
>that VW cited why they stopped selling the VW Bug in the American market.  (I
>know, I know, but hey, if people can make a conspiracy out of JFK's
>assasination, then I ought to be able to make a conspiracy out of the end of
>the American Bug.)
>
>	Certain people were losing too much money on the VW bug.  Who? 
>Obviously if you said GM and Ford, that's not a bad guess, but the real
>financial losers on the bug were chemical companies, or more specifically,
>chemical companies who made and sold antifreeze.
>
>	I think that somebody bought VW out.  They really don't seem to be
>hurting for money even if they do overprice their water-cooled cars.
>
>	Opinions?
>
>		Kyle

Actually the real reason was that people just weren't buying the 
bug like they used to.  In the late sixties, California started
to implement many safety-increasing and smog-reducing measures
that caused VW to change the design of the Bug, the Bus and the
Type III.  Notice how the tail lights changed between the '69 and
'70 model year.  They went from the nice little round nipples under
the headlights on the Type III to the ugly wrap-around kludges of the
'70-'73 models.  Also, as smog control measures went in, horsepower
went out.  Fuel injection was implemented in the Type III and IV in
1968 not as a selling point, but as an emmission control.

Last but NOT least.  By 1975 the Japanese were building these little
tinny cars with 1200cc engines in them that Consumer Reports and the
like were raving about for their GOOD GAS MILAGE.

Remember the gas crunch of the mid-seventies?  I do.  The bug 
only got about 22-25mpg at best.  The new little tin-cans the Japanese
made (and still make, ahem), got well over 30 at that point.  

David
1970 Squareback
From: amiller@almaden.ibm.com (Alex Miller)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: big alternators - tiny belt
Date: 9 Nov 1992 13:03:48 -0600
Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu

blu@cellar.org (Dan Reed) writes:

> Well, I have never done, this, but I can say "why"?  I run two 55 Watt
> Halogen off-road lights, and two 65 Watt Fog lights, my Highbeams, wipers,

Right now I limit myself to 100w/150w H4s in my main headlights and
130w in my fog lamps.  When I add Rallye-2000 cornering lights with
130w  bulbs my voltmeter starts reading below 12V.  By the way, there
are 100w/170w H4 bulbs and 160w H1/H3 bulbs available - you'll need
10g direct wiring with relays unless you want to burn up your dashboard.

Alex
amiller@almaden.ibm.com
From: dcheck77@jade.tufts.edu (Dan A Checkoway)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: starter problem
Keywords: Solenoid, starter, wires.
Date: 11 Nov 92 00:08:37 GMT
Organization: Tufts University - Medford, MA

About the engine not starting :

1)  If it makes a clicking noise when you turn the key,  then your solenoid
is probably O.K.  If it does not, you may have an intermittent solenoid 
problem -- goto 2

2)  You may have some loose wires -- is the problem really temp related?  If
so, some wires may be fried or something.  Check your connections at the
starter.  All O.K. -- goto 3

3)  Sounds like wiring to me, my friend.  You may want to check your options
other than replacing the entire harness -- see if you can find the wire at
the ignition end, then find the wire at the starter end.  Get an ohmmeter and
check out the resistance -- there should be none.  If there is considerable
fluctuation on the meter, you've got the problem between the terminals!
Otherwise, I've got no clue -- your ignition MAY be the problem, but I don't
know anything about that.

Good luck,

---Dan Checkoway	Student of Mechanical Engineering
Tufts University	"A tool in the hand is almost as
			 one in the bush."
.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: dfeldman@lookout.it.uswc.uswest.com (David Feldman)
Subject: corrado auto seat belts (yecch)
Organization: US WEST Information Technologies
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 20:19:22 GMT


Does anyone know if the 93 Corrado will do away with those automatic
seatbelts in favor of manual belts & airbag?
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: Adam Lawrence Salter <adam@zooid.guild.org>
Subject: HELP! Please read! Need 1978 BMW 316 manual!
Organization: The Zoo of Ids
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 22:24:43 GMT



  I know this groups is for VWs but hey, they're both German :->.

 
 
  Hi, someone in St.Petersburg, Russia NEEDS a manual for his 78 BMW 316. It 
would have to be quite comprehensive, like a workshop manual or technical 
manual. It would also have to be printed and NOT microfiche. As far as I know 
this car was never sold in North America, only in Europe, please reply to 
adam@zooid.guild.org as soon as possible. 
 
 
  Thank-you very much!!! 
 
 
                                                    adam 
 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mucit@cs.rochester.edu (Bulent Murtezaoglu)
Subject: compatible clusters?
Organization: Computer Science Department University of Rochester
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 22:13:39 GMT


Has anyone installed a GTi instrument cluster into a non-GTi '81 Rabbit?
Is it a straight forward swap?  (I want a tach.)  If it's easy, does 
anyone have one for sale?

thanks

-Mucit

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: bobp@apollo.HP.COM (Bob Plencner)
Subject: Re: Random Engine Cut Out
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 19:57:25 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Chelmsford, MA

In article <1992Nov3.174535.17235@netcom.com>, markl@netcom.com (Mark Lentczner) writes:
|> My 85 Cabriolet has had the following symptoms off and on
|> over the past three years.  In the last six months they
|> have gotten so bad that I often can't drive the car for
|> more than five blocks:
|> 
|> 	* At any speed, idle to 70mph, the ignition randomly
|> 	  cuts off for anywhere from momentarily to 10 seconds.
|> 	  When this happens the Tachometer drops instantly to
|> 	  zero.  All other electrical (lights, radio, fan, etc.)
|> 	  work fine during this period and other sensors and
|> 	  gauges look normal.
|> 

  Now I'm far from being an expert on VW hardware, but from the
above description, the problem should easily be isolated to the
ignition/electrics.   If there was a fuel delivery problem, the
tach wouldn't drop to ZERO instantly.  If it was a fuel problem, 
(and as long as the clutch was out), the engine would still be 
"cranking" and your tach would NOT drop to zero (until the car 
stopped moving of course.)

  Definately NOT a fuel delivery problem.

  Start at the distributer and work your way back.

-Bob
   
********************************************************************************
*  Bob Plencner             (603) 772-1500 x3889        bobp@apollo.hp.com     *
*  Hewlett-Packard (ECMO)   Exeter, NH     03833                               *
********************************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: don@vestek.com (Don Labutay)
Subject: Gauges
Organization: Vestek Systems, San Francisco
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 92 17:01:04 GMT

I just got these gauges from a vw swap meet but it didn't have any instructions
for it. Can any of you VW'ers tell me where the best place to connect them.

 ammeter 
 voltmeter
 tachometer (only three wires)


Thanks,

don@vestek.com  "VW rookie"


Organization: Junior, Architecture, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Date: Thu,  5 Nov 1992 03:31:23 -0500 
From: "Frederick R. Orndorff" <fo07+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Scirocco upgrades

 
Hey,

This past summer I bought an '86 Scirocco to replace my '71 Superbeetle,
and needless to say, I am more than pleased with my purchase.  I am,
however, looking to upgrade my performance and handling . . .

So -- I have a few questions .. . .

Wheels and tires - Right now  the car has the base (I think) VW 13"
wheels with the plastic trim ring and center cap, and some
grocery-getter Michelin tires which I am thoroughly disgusted with (I
can somehow manage to lose all traction in the rain in a straight line
by simply accelerating in 4th gear, in spite of plenty of tread depth
and proper inflation pressure).  Anyhow- is there an advantage
(performance-wise) to getting the 14" VW alloys (I especially like the
ones with the teardrop shaped holes around the perimeter) and what sort
of tires could you recommend for either set of wheels?

Suspension - I have heard a lot of discussion about various suspension
components for the A1 chassis (front and back tie bars &  sway bars,
progressive rate springs, etc.).  I'm a student working on a budget, and
curious about which of these components are worth installing, and what
order to buy them in since I could never afford to go all out in one
fell swoop.  Also, what differences are there between Neuspeed,
Techtonics, etc. from your experiences?

Whew . ..  . I'll stop there for now so that I don't end up writing a
book .. . 

Thanks for any help you can give me . .

 . . . fred.

-------------------------------------------------------------

Fred Orndorff
fo07+@andrew.cmu.edu
Carnegie Mellon University
-----------------------------------------------------.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw