HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: tvervaek@col.hp.com (Tom Vervaeke)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Cat Repellant
Date: 25 Jan 1993 22:40:41 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division
NNTP-Posting-Host: itchub21.cs.itc.hp.com

hubcap@hubcap.clemson.edu (System Janitor) writes:
> 
> So, just to make sure I understand...
> 
> My cat comes over to your house and walks on your car or poops in your
> begonias... do you shoot him before or after you see if I can/will keep
> him away?
> 
> -Mike

Mike: 

1. If your cat came to my house, I would then go to your house and ask you.
   Actually, I'd probably give you a call as it's cold as heck here in
   the winter.

2. If your cat came to my house, and I had already been to your house a few
   times, consider it will get a little poke it the butt from my pellet/bb
   gun. It will not damage the critter. It will not even put a hole in a
   cereal box (what I use to calibrate the sights) when only pumped 1 time.

3. If your cat keeps coming to my house, consider it will soon be at the
   animal control of El Paso County, Colorado. You will then get a call
   from them. Perhaps then you will understand.

This may sound cruel, but this is the way I believe it should be. It's
called The Right To Privacy.  Our neighborhood also has no solicitation
signs too. A local neighbor, tired of being bothered by folks from the
city selling magazines, sicked his dog on the salesman. Guess the word
got around, haven't had any salemen this year so far!

It's obvious we disagree. Different people have different views on the
right to privacy. Where I live I expect privacy. So do my neighbors. In
New York City I would perhaps expect otherwise.

Regards.

( ___ )------------------------------------------------------------( ___ )
 | / | Tom Vervaeke           Email:tom_vervaeke@hp0800.desk.hp.com | \ |
 | / | Technology Specialist  Snail: 1900 Garden of the Gods Rd.    | \ |
 | / | Hewlett Packard Co.           Colorado Springs, CO 80901     | \ |
 | / | Colorado Springs, CO   Voice    : 719-590-2133               | \ |
 | / | USA                    Fax      : 719-590-2117               | \ |
 | / |--------------------------------------------------------------| \ |
 | / | Quote of the week...                                         | \ |
 |___|           Quote deleted do to lack of creativity !!!         |___|
(_____)------------------------------------------------------------(_____)
   ^                                                                  ^

Xref: sparky misc.consumers.house:17166 misc.rural:2863
From: bj368@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Mike E. Romano)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,misc.rural
Subject: Re: 12 volt electrical systems (was Re: Power
Date: 21 Jan 1993 10:54:46 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu



Rob Kleinschmidt writes in the previous posting that he has
the complete system inverted to 110 volts, using 24 volt
battery system as back up etc.
This is very interesting.
I would like to hear of any reference books on the more
improved electrical systems for independent power home,
source material, especially for do it yourselfers since
I am collecting info and preparing to build my own home
in the near future.
Also if Mr. Kleinschmidt is using solar, wind, etc. for
generate any of this power, or small hydro would also
be of informative value.

Mike Romano


-- 
Capt. Kirk: let's head for that planet, third from the sun, it
            looks promising.... |-)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: guppy@wixer.cactus.org (Jennifer Mery)
Subject: Re: Cat Repellant
Keywords: Cat, Bird, Pounce, Kill
Organization: Real/Time Communications
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 06:16:19 GMT

In article <1993Jan19.232543.2185@cbnews.cb.att.com> trb@cbnews.cb.att.com (tom.balent) writes:
>In article <C144C3.GHw@SSD.intel.com> brad@ssd.intel.com (Brad Rullman) writes:
>>
>>I have a problem:  a neighborhood cat likes to hang around under the 
>>cover of a cedar tree near my bird feeder, and pounce on unsuspecting
>>birds that fly to the ground below to pick up dropped seeds.
>>
>>Is there some kind of repellant I can use on the ground under the
>>cedar tree to discourage this kind of anti-social activity?  
>
>Yes, a dog.

The dog will scare away the birds. I'm still having trouble deciding if
I want a dog or birds in the backyard.


jam
-- 
==============================================================================
Jennifer Mery | Please do not quote entire long articles or signatures.
Austin, Texas | guppy@wixer.cactus.org
==============================================================================
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: laird@pasture.ecn.purdue.edu (Kyler Laird)
Subject: Re: How to keep deer off my backyard
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network
Distribution: usa
Date: 22 Jan 93 02:10:26 GMT

tvervaek@col.hp.com (Tom Vervaeke) writes:
>How about a dog on a temporary lease from a friend or neighbor? Never
>met a deer who liked a dog; and never met a dog who didn't want to catch
>the deer!!!

A wolf might be better - self-feeding.  I often dream of reintroducing
wolves to our farm to limit the deer damage.

--kyler
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: garyp@rmtc.paramax.com (Gary Palangian [RMTC/ISP])
Subject: Insulating Stairs to reduce Noise
Organization: Paramax Systems
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 19:25:27 GMT

Hey Now Everybody,


    Remember a couple of weeks ago on This Old House when 
Steve took a look at some Colonial Style Homes being built
by the architect dude.  In one home, Steve noticed some 
regular house insulation tacked under the stairs and
the architect dude said it was there to help dampen
the noise.  Any thoughts on this?  I think it was
unfaced insulation, but am not sure?  How do you get it
to sxtick under the stairs?


Party On...


Gary P.

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: maoh@phyast.nhn.uoknor.edu (Maureen O'Halloran)
Subject: Re: Cat Repellant
Originator: news@kittyhawk.ecn.uoknor.edu
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 19:13:41 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Engineering Computer Network, University of Oklahoma, Norman, OK, USA
Keywords: Cat, Bird, Pounce, Kill

guppy@wixer.cactus.org (Jennifer Mery) writes:

>> .... brad@ssd.intel.com (Brad Rullman) writes:
>>>I have a problem:  a neighborhood cat likes to hang around under the 
>>>cover of a cedar tree near my bird feeder, and pounce on unsuspecting
>>>birds that fly to the ground below to pick up dropped seeds.
>>>Is there some kind of repellant I can use on the ground under the
>>>cedar tree to discourage this kind of anti-social activity?  

>>
>>Yes, a dog.

>The dog will scare away the birds. I'm still having trouble deciding if
>I want a dog or birds in the backyard.

My dog totally ignores birds although he goes nuts over squirrels.
("If I keep dancing around under the tree barking, one of thems BOUND
to fall down sooner or later") Birds on the other hand are totally
boring. His ancestory is a total mystery but apparently doesn't
include bird-dog.  There are lots of birds at my feeder, including
eating off the ground, they just fly off momentarily if he wanders too
close.

--

 Maureen O'Halloran
 
Xref: sparky misc.consumers.house:17480 misc.rural:2918
From: john@tater.Rational.COM (John Mizzi)
Subject: CO monitor
Summary: Where can I get a CO alarm
Keywords: CO monitor
Organization: Rational
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 23:07:50 GMT

Does anyone know where I can buy a CO monitor for about $40?


--
John Mizzi               | E-Mail:
RATIONAL		 |	john@Rational.Com
3320 Scott Boulevard
Santa Clara, CA 95054
From: moroney@world.std.com (Michael Moroney)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: HELP! electrical problem
Date: 27 Jan 93 05:19:15 GMT
Distribution: misc.consumers.house
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA

bobk@sequent.com (Bob Krull) writes:

>In article <1993Jan26.132203.22930@ryn.mro4.dec.com> abbott@priory.enet.dec.com (Robert Abbott) writes:
>>
>>I once had a similar problem. Turned out the neutral from the
>>street (the bare steel cable) was broken. This will lead to
>>voltage swings and some bizzare dimming of lights.

Another sign of an open neutral before the breaker box is some lights will
get BRIGHTER when a motor load such as a refrigerator starts.

>Neutral from the street!!??  Where do you live that the power company runs
>a neutral line?  The only "bare steel cable" I am familiar with is purely
>for mechanical strength.

All places that get 120V/240V single phase service get 3 conductors from
the pole. There are 2 "hots" and a neutral.  The voltage between the two hots
is 240 volts, the voltage between either hot and the neutral is 120 volts.

Usually a normal house feed has the neutral double as the mechanical
support.  It is uninsulated.  The two hot leads are insulated and wrapped
around it.  Older services have 3 individual self-supporting conductors
from the pole.

-Mike
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: merrifie@cidmac.ecn.purdue.edu (Michael C Merrifield)
Subject: What in the wide, wide world-o-sports isa goin' on here?
Keywords: drain, tile, stack
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 16:08:25 GMT

During a sudden rush of curiosity, I remembered the previous owner of
my house mentioned the location of some sort of a drain pipe buried a
couple  inches below the ground close to the outside of the  basement
wall.   So in this heightened state of curiosity, I went looking  for
and  found the top of a clay tile stack which is 7' deep!   There was
water at the bottom but I couldn't tell what the "bottom" was.   That
should put it at about the foundation.   The top section of the stack
(the flared part) was simply covered by a crudely cut piece of  sheet
metal.   I have no ideas what is connected to this stack.   If it  is
some kind of drain tile, how does it work? Should the water be pumped
out of the stack?  The house was built about 37 years ago on what was
once choice IN farm land (if construction practices in the 50's would
give any clues).  Any ideas?

-- Mike
    **********************************************************
    * Michael Merrifield     merrifie@cidmac.ecn.purdue.edu  *
    * Purdue  University     C A D L A B -- (317) 49 -45944  *
    **********************************************************
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: troy@cs.sfu.ca (Troy Brooks)
Subject: Re: Cat Repellant
Keywords: Cat, Bird, Pounce, Kill
Organization: CSS, Simon Fraser University, Burnaby, B.C., Canada
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 18:58:11 GMT

In article <P7BPXB1w161w@cdthq.UUCP> gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston) writes:
>brad@ssd.intel.com (Brad Rullman) writes:
>
>> 
>> I have a problem:  a neighborhood cat likes to hang around under the 
>> cover of a cedar tree near my bird feeder, and pounce on unsuspecting
>> birds that fly to the ground below to pick up dropped seeds.
>> 
>> Is there some kind of repellant I can use on the ground under the
>> cedar tree to discourage this kind of anti-social activity?  
>
>Yes. A dog on a leash tied to the base of the cedar tree should be
>quite effective.
>
>A second possibility would be to use chicken wire to enclose the area
>under the tree, so the cat isn't able to pounce out. All this would 

	[stuff deleted]

>If all else fails, a live trap and trip to the local animal pound
>will solve the problem.
>
>Gary Heston, at home....
>gary@cdthq.uucp

	I don't know how many of the responses I've seen to this
	were tongue-in-cheek, but I find it hard to understand
	why people would suggest things like shooting the cat with
	a pellet gun, or hauling it off to the pound. This is
	just what cats do. Ask the neighbour to put a bell on the
	cat, or best of all, move the feeder to a post a good distance
	away from the cedar tree. That way, the birds have more
	time to see the cat coming. We have a number of feeders,
	(and a lot of neighbourhood cats) and we haven't had any
	problems (yet). Finally, there's only so much you can do
	for the birds.... evolution in action!

	Troy Brooks
	troy@cs.sfu.ca

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: jfouts@pioneer.arc.nasa.gov (Jeanne Fouts ACF)
Subject: Re: Cat Repellant
Organization: NASA Ames Res. Ctr. Mtn Vw CA 94035
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 18:40:53 GMT

  I have heard a lot of people around my work who use the new "Super-Soaker"
squirt guns as a trainer of cats. When you catch the cat doing what you don't
want, you give it a dose of water. They have a good range and will not harm
the cat unless you startle him enough for him to fall off a fence. I think
they are a bit more humane than accidentally gettin a pellet gun pumped up
too far.

Jeanne Fouts
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: merrifie@cidmac.ecn.purdue.edu (Michael C Merrifield)
Subject: Re: Another wet basement (a new approach)
Keywords: basement, water, drain, sump
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 16:47:28 GMT

In article <91176@bcsaic.boeing.com>, tanner@bcsaic.boeing.com (Jim Tanner) writes:
> In article <1993Jan19.205122.14796@noose.ecn.purdue.edu> merrifie@cidmac.ecn.purdue.edu (Michael C Merrifield) writes:
> [ discussion about how water is getting into basement, and why he doesn't
> [ want to do a standard (outside) perimeter drain ]
                          ^^^^^^^^^
The standard perimeter drain I mentioned was in fact an "inside job".  Perhaps
that wasn't clear as mud (or clay in this case).

> You don't mention the geometry/size of the basement, nor the ground
> elevation/basement depth around the house, so I can't get a feel for
> the difficulties involved in an exterior drain, but IMHO I'd install an
> interior drain _only_ as a last resort, if only because it seriously
> complicates any future finishing off of the basement (maybe you aren't
> interested in finishing it off, but the next buyer might be).

The basement is approximately 25' x 40'.  The house sits on a fairly level
lot so all but the top foot of the basement wall is "submerged".  Additionally,
we would like to finish the basement.  I don't see how an interior drain
system complicates this as long as the `integrity' of the basement floor is
restored.

> BTW, I've heard the term "French drain" used to describe interior
> drain systems such as you've sketched out.

Precisely!

-- Mike

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: tom@oracorp.com (Tom)
Subject: Re: Another wet basement (a new approach)
Organization: ORA Corporation
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL3
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 17:40:28 GMT

tanner@bcsaic.boeing.com (Jim Tanner) writes:
: In your estimation of effort involved, it will be more difficult to
: remove the basement floor (concrete) than the exterior fill (dirt),
: certainly on a per-cubic-yard basis.  I presume you will need to rent
: a concrete saw to cut through the basement floor, then break up the
: material to be removed with a sledge hammer (or rent an electric
: jackhammer).  There will probably be some rebar or reinforcing mesh
: embedded in the concrete that you will have to contend with, too.

I had the interior drainage system done because: a) it was guaranteed
for the life of the house and b) it was MUCH cheaper to do the inside
than the outside.
 
: You don't mention the geometry/size of the basement, nor the ground
: elevation/basement depth around the house, so I can't get a feel for
: the difficulties involved in an exterior drain, but IMHO I'd install an
: interior drain _only_ as a last resort, if only because it seriously
: complicates any future finishing off of the basement (maybe you aren't
: interested in finishing it off, but the next buyer might be).

Didn't complicate my finishing the basement at all.  The drainage system
was the single best home improvement investment we made on our house, as
it allowed us and extra floor of living space.

I did hire it done; it did make a create a lot of dust; I would do it
all over again.  If you had a month, it could be a DIY project, but the
crew finished it in one long day. Labor intensive, not a lot of skill
involved. 

-- Tom

Disclaimer:  My opinions are my own.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (patterson,george r)
Subject: Re: Tearing out woodstove and brick hearth
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 93 15:28:21 GMT

In article <lm6osoINNj96@boogie.cs.utexas.edu> swisher@cs.utexas.edu (Janet M. Swisher) writes:
>
>What is involved in tearing apart brick masonry?  Can we do it without
>damaging the floor terribly much?  In spite of the plastic sheet, I'm
>sure there are places where the mortar got on to the hardwood.

Well, you can use a cold chisel in the joints. This will work, but there's
a big potential for damage to the sheet rock and flooring. I would use a
circular saw with a masonry saw blade to cut the brickwork into chunks
small enough to carry. Wear eye protection and a dust mask.

>It will probably be simplest to just leave the stovepipe in place (it
>goes through the ceiling to the attic and out the roof).  Would taking
>it out entail major repairs to the ceiling and roof?

Yep, taking it out is major as far as the roof is concerned - the ceiling's
no problem. I'd buy one of those fancy covers for it and leave it.

>Anybody know how much a used wood-burning stove sells for these days?

A friend of mine sold two in midstate New York a couple of years ago. One
went for $50 and the other for $100. Depends on the quality of the unit.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | Laser Printer, n;  A xeroxigraphical copying
                    |   machine with additional malfunctioning parts.
                    |                            The Dumpty Dictionary
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: tidedu@venus.lerc.nasa.gov (William T. Dedula)
Subject: Getting previous owner of home to pay for problems he concealed
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
Distribution: usa
Date: 27 Jan 1993 20:02 EDT  

Hello All;
I am in desperate need of advice. I bought a home about 3 years 
ago and shortly after I bought it (6 months) I discovered that 
a fairly large amount of water would come into my basement during
heavy rain storms. When I asked the owners about if there was any
water problems with the house (before I bought it) they said NO. 
I have already had several experts down to the house and they all
agree that the problem existed long before I moved in. 

I have recently realized that the problem is far more severe than
I originally thought and that it will cost over $8000 to repair. 
After sending a letter to the people I bought the house from 
(several years ago), they deny that they knew about the problem 
and (of course) refused to pay. 

If I could get them to pay for half the repairs, I'd be happy. 
Does anyone know if I can persue any legal action against the 
people who sold me the house even if it is 3 years after purchase
and if I don't have in writing that they said the house didn't
have any wanter problems. 

Can anyone suggest any other ideas ??? Thanks so much !!!

Tim


W. Tim Dedula                        Internet: 
N.A.S.A. Lewis Research Center       tdedula@nasamail.nasa.gov
Mail Stop 77-3                       tidedu@mars.lerc.nasa.gov
21000 BrookPark Road                 aa252@cleveland.freenet.edu
Cleveland, Ohio 44135
Phone (216) 433-3668

The National Aeronautics and Space Administration: Science and
Technology ... for the Benefit of ALL Mankind !!!

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com (Fred Christiansen)
Subject: Re: Address of Kohler (ltd? inc? who knows)?
Organization: Motorola Computer Group, RT Software
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 17:43:30 GMT

In article <1993Jan27.184315.21689@prime.mdata.fi> jjj@mits.mdata.fi (Joni Jarvenkyla) writes:
>Would somebody have the address of Kohler, the maker of bathtubs etc
>accessories?

Kohler, Wisconsin, 53044

It's a small enough town that that address will get you there.
-- 
Fred Christiansen, Motorola, 2900 S Diablo Way, Tempe, AZ 85282  "Canajun, eh?"
fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com  ||  uunet!phx.mcd.mot.com!fredch  ||  +1 602-438-3464
  ".. I have set before you Life and Death, blessing and cursing;  therefore
      choose Life, that both you and your children may live"  Deut 30:19
From: gt@fc.sde.hp.com (George Tatge)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: adding a range hood, which circuit ?
Date: 28 Jan 1993 19:28:10 GMT
Organization: HP SESD, Fort Collins, CO
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: georget.sde.hp.com
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

Paul Barton-Davis (pauld@cs.washington.edu) wrote:
: 	My quick guide to the NEC tells me that
: 	a range hood cannot be wired on the same
: 	circuit as general lighting, but can be 
: 	on a small appliance circuit.
: 
: 	If so, what would be I violating by plugging
: 	a range hood outlet into an existing socket
: 	that was on a general lighting circuit ?
: 	Common Sense ? Anything ?
: 	

First, are you sure it is not an SAC?  If it is by the stove
it probably is (in a newer house).  

Assuming you're not concerned about code violations of this 
sort, all you would want to do is determine what all is on 
this circuit, add up the worse case amp load with everything
on and throw in ten percent.  Now make sure you're under the
breaker amperage.  If you have a situation where you will never
have everything on then leave something out.  My experience tells
me that at some time or another, just about everything can be
on simultaneously.  Disclaimer: this is the common sense approach
and NOT the code approach!

gt

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: kenk@sdc.com (Ken Konecki)
Subject: Invisible Fences (was Re: Cat Repellant)
Organization: Systems Development Corporation
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 15:36:03 GMT

In article <1jn58pINN2vf@hp-col.col.hp.com> tvervaek@col.hp.com (Tom Vervaeke) writes:
>We also have two nice dogs. We have paid around $1700
>to have one of the Invisible Fences (tm) installed in our yard. Our dogs
>wear special collars and it does a wonderful job of keeping our dogs in
>the yard. 

My brother had an invisible fence installed around his property.
At first, it did a wonderful job of retaining his two dogs.  But
after treeing a squirrel in the neighbor's yard one day, they
learned that they after they pass over the fence, the electric
shock goes away and is now totally useless to my brother.  Some
dogs are smarter than people give them credit for.

Cheers,
    -Ken K
-- 
Ken Konecki
e-mail:kenk@sdc.com    -or-    ...!uunet!tellab5!sdc!kenk
"Getting an inch of snow is like winning 10 cents in the lottery"
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: s5uagm@fnma.COM (Andrew Miller)
Subject: Re: Replacing old wiring
Reply-To: s5uagm@fnma.COM
Organization: Fannie Mae
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 23:32:31 GMT

In article 727387872@navy22, koch@rtsg.mot.com (Clifton Koch) writes:
>
>  Someone correct me if I'm wrong (and I'm sure someone will :-), but I think
>the only difference between 15 and 20 amp outlets is the extra sideways slot
>in the 20 amp outlet.  I've looked at the internals of the outlets themselves
>before, and there appears to be no difference in contact area or conductor
>sizes between the two.  Has anyone ever seen a piece of equipment that uses
>a 20 amp plug?
>
	I've seen many high HP spa's and hot tubs which have the special sideways
20amp plugs.   However, they also specificaly called for a _dedicated_ 20amp 
circuit.  A long run of 20amp outlets would not meet the criteria.  ( But would
still work. :)

			- Andrew -
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Cat Repellant