HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: byron@ghoti.netapp.com (Byron Rakitzis)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: OTF Metering Inaccuracies
Date: 8 Jan 1993 19:57:55 -0800
Organization: Network Appliance Corporation
NNTP-Posting-Host: ghoti.netapp.com

In article <5360843@hplsla.hp.com> barryg@hplsla.hp.com (Barry Gunn) writes:
>>The TTL AE system on OM-2 and OM-4 reads the light reflected from the
>>shutter curtain *and* off the film. It's just that when the shutter
>>speeds are low, most of the light will be metered reflected off the
>>film, and when the speeds are high most of the light will be metered
>>reflected off the curtain.
>
> ?

This follows from if you think about flash sync & a focal plane shutter.

At around the sync speed of the shutter, the OTF meter will see the
film for about half the exposure, and the curtain for the other
half.

For v. slow shutter speeds, e.g., 1 second, then only a small fraction
of the time (1/60 in our example) will be spent looking at the curtain.

At high shutter speeds, the shutter opening is actually just a slit
which travels across the film plane, and the OTF meter sees mostly
the curtain.

Therefore it's important to design the curtain to "look" like film.

If you peek into an OM camera with OTF metering, you will see a curtain
covered with an apparently random pattern of black and white squares,
rather like pixels on a low-resolution computer display.

---
Byron Rakitzis <byron@netapp.com>
From: ad@egr.duke.edu (Apostolos Dollas)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Advice requested on cameras/lenses
Date: 7 Jan 93 17:59:51 GMT
Organization: Duke University EE Dept.; Durham, NC

I need some advice regarding upcoming upgrades in my photographic 
equipment. Unfortunately, my attitude towards photography and my needs
are changing, so I should briefly describe the ``old'' vs. the ``new''
needs.

For most of the last ten years I have been shooting almost exclusively
slide film and still scenes. Go, set the tripod, calculate exposure, 
use f/11 or f/16 to shoot a sunset with 25 ASA slide film, that sort of thing.
Since this is hardly action photography, I needed a camera with an excellent
lens. Back in '85 I got a Contax 137MA (not enough money for RTS II) with the 
standard Zeiss Planar lens and another Zeiss 28mm lens. Later I got the Vivitar 
2X macro converter which I have used quite a bit too. I should note here that 
I am appaulingly slow when I prepare to shoot a picture, but I have taken some
fairly decent shots of landscapes.

That was then. During the last two years I have been mostly shooting print
film (mostly people in various occasions, not portraits). Well, I am still
very slow to focus, etc. and that causes some trouble, especially with 
children and dogs.

Here is what I think I need in the future: a ``people'' camera, autofocus,
with telephoto lens, lightweight, with flash (preferably w/ red eye 
reduction), and, a ``good'' shots camera with really good lenses, more or less
like my present Contax plus autofocus and a 70-210mm lens.

Here are my choices: A) buy a good ``people'' camera, that my wife can use too
as a point-and-shoot, keep the Contax, and buy a 70-210mm zoom lens for
it (everything I want except autofocus on the ``good'' camera). B) Sell the
Contax, buy an autofocus SLR with a decent 70-210mm lens (and maybe another
lens), plus a low-cost point-and-shoot. 

In A) I had in mind the Pentax IQ Zoom 90, but someone recently suggested that
the  Pentax 105-R Date is pretty good also. Also, since I cannot afford the
Zeiss tele zoom lens (close to $1000) what might be a good 70-210mm to get?
B) I had in mind the Nikon8008S (but am unsure about lenses yet), plus a
Canon Sure-Shot or something like that.

What I would like to solicit is whether option A or option B seems 
preferable, especially if other netters have similar needs/experiences.
Also, what brands of cameras, lenses, etc. would you recommend? Suggestions
of brands to avoid are also welcome.

Thanks in advance. Please respond with e-mail to ad@egr.duke.edu
but I will be happy to share the responses with other interested netters or
summarize if there is enough interest.

Apostolos Dollas
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: acs@csri.toronto.edu (Alvin Chia-Hua Shih)
Subject: Re: Fashion Photography -- Going Pro
Date: 6 Jan 93 13:13:52 GMT

In <350@metran.UUCP> jay@metran.UUCP (Jay Ts) writes:

>Here's one for all of you successful fashion photographers out there...

			[...]

>So, how does one get started professionally as a fashion photographer?  I
>have been thinking of getting a self-promotional piece together, but who
>do I send it to?  Modeling agencies?  Ad agencies?  Someone else?  I'm a
>little confused as to how the fashion industry actually works!

Actually, how does one get started as an amateur fashion photographer?
How do you advertize?  Do you *just* take photographs, or do you have
a whole package with makeup, studio, etc.?  What format are you shooting?

Thanks.

ACS
-- 
 ___ ___ ___ ______________________________________________________________
|   |   | __|"The Nikon lens owners are more gratingly smug, while the     |
| - | --|__ | Canon lens owners are more verbally abusive." - Tony Arnerich|
|_|_|___|___|______________________________________________________________|
Alvin_C._Shih____________________acs@csri.utoronto.ca______________________|

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: hamm@weejordy.physics.mun.ca (Craig Hamm (Evil Spock))
Subject: Sample model release:
Organization: Ocean Sciences Centre
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 17:06:52 GMT


	Date: ______________________________

	Client: ____________________________

	Model: _____________________________

	Model's agency: ____________________

	____________________________________

	Total Fee: $________________________

	
	In consideration of my employment as a model by the above for 
	the fee stated, receipt of which is hereby acknowledged, I 
	hereby sell, assign and grant to the photographer, or those 
	for whom the photographer is acting as indicated above, the 
	right and permission to copyright and/or use and/or publish 
	and republish photographic pictures of me in which I may be
	included in whole or in part, in colour or in black and white,
	made through any media by the photographer at his studio or
	elsewhere, including the use of any printed matter in 
	conjunction with such photographs.

	I hereby waive my right to inspect and/or approve the finished
	photograph or advertising copy or printed matter that may be 
	used in conjunction with such photgraphs, or to the eventual 	
	use to which it may be applied.

	I hereby release and discharge the above, its assigns, and all
	persons acting under its permission or authority or those for 
	whom it is acting, from and against any liability as a result 
	of any distortion, blurring, alteration, or optical illusion
	that may occur in the taking of the picture, or processing or
	reproduction of the finished product.

	I herby warrant that I am of full age and competent to 	
	contract in my own name  in so far as the above is concerned.
	I have read the foregoing release and warrant that I fully
	understand the contents thereof.

	Model's signature: _________________________________
	
	===============================================================

	I got this from a pro photographer, so it looks ok.  MY problem
	with it is that it looks a little heavy/scary for some situations.
	Somewhere, I saw a book that had different styles of releases.
	Some were nice and short, but covered your behind enough for many
	applications.  I actually have
	reservations about whipping this out into somebody's face. (unless
	I KNOW I want the rights).  Can anybody post such a release ?

-- 
  Craig Hamm, Memorial University,|   
  Newfoundland, Ocean Acoustics   |
  Canada                          |
  ________________________________|

Organization: Doctoral student, Engineering and Public Policy, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 11:56:12 -0500 
From: Luis Abdon Cifuentes <lc0v+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: Flimsy tripod suggestion
	<1993Jan11.041720.9759@ra.msstate.edu>

>jacobson@cello.hpl.hp.com (David Jacobson) writes:
> 
>>In the February Popular Photography Herbert Keppler says you can make
>>a flimsy tripod rigid by hanging weight from the center.  I've also
>>heard this suggested on rec.photo.  He also says that if you can't
>>find something heavy to uses as a weight, just press down with your
>>hand.  
> 
>>My question is "Why does this work"?  It seems that if I stress the
>>tripod, that will flex its mechanical members to new equilibrium
> 
>My GUESS is as follows:
>1) the extra weight stresses the tripod legs a bit, lessening their freedom
   of movement a bit.
 
2) any loose mechanical parts will tend to get pushed into a low-energy
   (stable) state.
 
3) the pressure couples the tripod/camera more tightly to the GROUND (even 
   in the case where you're pressing with your hand, you will tend to gain
   her, unless you are shaking pretty bad).
-- 
-- 
Stephen Samuel 		(604)822-9248		samuel@cs.ubc.ca
The first prerequisite to winning is playing the game.

This will work for the legs, but not for the head of the tripod (unless
you hang the weight from the head or from your camera body, not a very
practical suggestion). 
I have found that flimsy tripods have also flimsy head, where most of
the play and vibration originates. Unfortunately, you can't do too much
there.

Luis

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: markt@cup.hp.com (Mark Thompson)
Subject: Paper storage in the Darkroom
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 17:14:51 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1scd1 PL4

I just finished building a dedicated darkroom, no more using the kitchen
and bathroom.  One of the things that would be nice would be a built in 
papersafe, or paper drawer.  Does anyone know of plans for such construction.
I have known people who keep paper in a regular drawer but i have always been
afraid of fogging.  What i am wondering is what guidelines should one follow
to put something like this together.

Also, along the lines of darkroom construction projects.  Does anyone have
experience building a printwasher?  The ones sold by Zone V look real simple
is there some trick to building them.  I know that you can bond plexiglass
fairly easily if you use the solvent that they sell at the plastic store. So
that would take care of the tank itself.
The main questions are how should the water flow go and how do you seperate
the prints.


Mark
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: gerry@dvorak.amd.com (Gerard McKee)
Subject: How to mix Kodak Flexicolor C-41 Chemistry?
Organization: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc.; Austin, Texas
Distribution: usa
Date: Sun, 10 Jan 93 00:09:49 GMT


HOW  TO MIX KODAK FLEXICOLOR C-41 CHEMISTRY?

Does anyone know the proportions to mix Kodak Flexicolor C-41 Chemistry? I bought the
concentrates to mix 1 Gallon of each solution, but I want to only mix 1 Quart at a time.
Kodak's directions only show how to mix the whole gallon by using the entire bottle of
concentrate. (This surprised me because there E-6 Kit tells how to mix 1 pint or 1 liter.)
Also, some of the bottles are not full and are labeled as such.  There are four solutions:

	C-41 Developer Part A, B, & C
	C-41 Bleach Part A & B
	C-41 Fixer
	C-41 Stabilizer Part A & B


Gerry McKee
gerry@wopner.amd.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: markm@wri.com
Subject: Re: about 300mmF2.8 and 200mmF2.0
Reply-To: markm@wri.com
Organization: Wolfram Research, Inc.
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 19:35:05 GMT

In article <1993Jan12.180643.20345@ultb.isc.rit.edu> ecldco@ultb.isc.rit.edu  
(E.C. Loyd) writes:
> 
> All you need to do is get a mirror lens...$100US for a 500mm, and spend
> some change on a 2x converter...$25 or so used.
> 
> That's what I do.  Now, before I get flamed (I know, we don't flame on 
> rec.photo) for this, I REALIZE the inherent dangers of mirror lenses with
> teleconverters, especially those that are doublers.  But, for a 1meter
> lens for $150 (mail order prices), you can't go wrong.
> 

I don't get it.  I use the same setup described above.  500mm mirror lens with  
a 2x converter for goofing around.  Wait, I take that back, I have made some  
nice images of the moon this way.

So what are "the inherent danger of mirror lenses with teleconverters" ???

--Mark
From: mic@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Marc Clarke)
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 02:20:37 GMT
Subject: 6 cm by 7 cm Slide/Transparency Projectors
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Ft. Collins, CO
Newsgroups: rec.photo

What slide (transparency) projectors are available that can project a 6 cm by
7 cm transparency?  I have found the Mamiya Cabin Pro 6 cm by 7 cm projector
in the Calumet catalog for roughly US$1,000.00.  But the Mamiya seems to only
accept single glass mounted 6x7 slides -- there does not seem to be any such
thing as a carousel or a stack feeder shown.

Are there any other brands of projectors for 6 cm by 7 cm transparencies?  In
particular, are there any that can project mulitple transparencies
sequentailly without hand loading each transparency?
From: avirmani@yoko.rutgers.edu (Aashu Virmani)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: 75-300 USM ?
Keywords: how good?
Date: 9 Jan 93 04:49:21 GMT
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.
Cc: avirmani


I have a two month old canon EF75-300 zoom.   I was happy with the
pictures until I tried to shoot some in an aquarium in boston..  It
just wasn't fast enough and I missed some shots..  I would have loved
to have a USM then..
My question is:  Canon seems to have come up with a 75-300 USM which
is about 50 bucks cheaper than the older 100-300 USM.   Anybody out
there having experience with this 75-300? 
My dealer would take back my EF 75-300 and give me the USM75-300 for
another $30, or USM 100-300 for another $75.   Which one do you think
I should go for?   I haven't yet seen the USM75-300 but about the
100-300, the plus points are:  IF, terribly fast, distance scale.

Those of you who claim the 75-300 to be `average' -  is the 100-300
REALLY of much better optical quality?  Would anyone know if the USM
75-300 also has distance scales and if it would be internal focussing?
If it is not IF, I would then be inclined towards the 100-300 USM.

Thanks in advance.   I will post a summary if there is enough
interest.  

- aashu
-- 

 - Aashu Virmani (avirmani@paul.rutgers.edu)
   Hill 355,  932-3213
   Dept. of Computer Science,  
   Rutgers University, Piscataway, NJ 08855.
Organization: Doctoral student, Engineering and Public Policy, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 12:02:37 -0500 
From: Luis Abdon Cifuentes <lc0v+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: $#@^$% JOBO Reels
Distribution: world

 
In article <1993Jan10.001335.7813@cs.UAlberta.CA>
   rodney@cs.UAlberta.CA (Rodney Gitzel) writes:
 
> The CPE-2 came as a "starter kit"; do they ship
>  *extremely* cheap reels with such kits?  The
>  ones I have are flimsy white plastic, and I have
>  *yet* to get one loaded without snagging the
>  film (35mm).  One night it took nearly 20 minutes
>  to load only four reels!!!
 
> I am used to the Patterson plastic reels, which, according
>  to metal reel people, are atrocious.  But I have no
>  problems with them.  These JOBO reels, on the other hand...
> 
> So, can I use some better type of reel?  Or is it just me,
>  and I don't understand how to use the things?

I started using the 1500 system with the white reels, and I find it very
easy to load. But I don't follow the instructions!. I don't twist the
two sides of the reels to load the film, for 35mm I just push the film
in, and I can load a roll in 30 seconds!.
For 120 film, I pull the film using my fingers in the lowered zone of
the reels (that zone that shows some portion of the side of the film). I
think it works better than following the Jobo instructions. 

I hope you undertand my explanation, if not, send me mail


Luis A. Cifuentes
Engineering and Public Policy Department
Carnegie Mellon University
Pittsburgh, PA 15213
lcifuentes+@andrew.cmu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: tjwu@athena.mit.edu (Thomas J Wu)
Subject: Re: 75-300 USM ?
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 20:45:29 GMT

In article <C0ot4B.HwG@fulcrum.co.uk> rct@fulcrum.co.uk (Richard Taylor) writes:
>
>  My 75-300 has EF75-300 on the lens *and* Ultrasonic in gold. Is it a
>  EF or a USM. It seems very quiet, but I don't rate it as being
>  particularly fast at focussing. (but then again 75-300 is a hell of a range...)

EF is simply Canon's designation for its autofocusing EOS lens mount.
You have an EF 75-300 f/4-5.6 USM lens, which, of course, has an ultrasonic
motor.  It doesn't focus as quickly as the 100-300 USM, 35-135 USM, etc.
because it doesn't have an internal/rear focusing mechanism.

>  Regards,
>  ============================================================================
>  Richard Taylor                  DoD #981                 (rct@fulcrum.co.uk)
>  "All I want is a warm bed and a kind word and unlimited power"  A. Brilliant
>  ============================================================================
>  Fulcrum Communications Ltd., Fordrough Lane, Birmingham, B9 5LD, ENGLAND.

Thomas Wu
Internet:  tjwu@athena.mit.edu
From: fanelli@gagme.chi.il.us (michael fanelli)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Olympus XA/XA 2 Opinions Wanted
Date: 6 Jan 93 12:43:40 GMT
Organization: GAGME - Public Access UNIX of Chicago, Illinois, USA, Earth
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL7]

Thomas Poole (poole@bnr.ca) wrote:
: 
: Has anyone used the Olympus XA or XA 2?  Do you
: have any opinions?  How are the optics?  Can I 
: expect good 8x10s with it?  As I understand it
: is a coupled rangefinder, how is it at focusing?
: All opinions greatly appreciated.
: Tom...


I have had an XA for quite a few years. It is an excellent camera and I
have gotten quite a few really great photos from it (I get mostly 11x14).
Focusing is easy and thge image is clear, even with glasses. I have
looked at some of the new auto minis, but I honestly don't think they
have any real advantage over the XA. Besides, the XA has AE mode at all
shutter speeds!

			michael fanelli
			72040.2460@compuserve.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: mtfirst@ccu.umanitoba.ca (Mount-first Yat Fung Ng)
Subject: How to determine film latitude?
Keywords: film latitude 
Organization: University of Manitoba, Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 06:08:09 GMT

	Can anyone tell me how to determine the film latitude of color
and black & white film?
From: lk10+@andrew.cmu.edu (Leslie Jo Kavchak)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: WANTED: Hassy 150 lens
Date: 12 Jan 93 11:06:46 GMT
Article-I.D.: andrew.wfIn=a600VIFE5EFQR
Organization: Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA

looking for a Hasselblad 150mm (or 120mm macro 5.6) lens.  preferably
chrome ( I am a student and probably can't afford a black T* lens.  

would be willing to buy a 250mm instead if the price was right

Thanks
leslie
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: nielsj@sad.hp.com (Niels Jensen)
Subject: Medium format rangefinders...any advice?
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 01:29:51 GMT
Organization: HP Sonoma County (SRSD/MWTD/MID)
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

   I am interested in purchasing a medium format camera. My
primary work is in 4x5, but I  have a project that will require
a fair amout of "people" photography, along with my 4x5 work.
I don't want to go back to 35mm megatives, so I'm looking for
a medium format camera. I find the 4x5 a bit unwieldy when working
with people.

   I'm not interested in a full blown camera outfit. The camera will
be supplemental. I am considering the Fuji GS67 or GS69. I have
also looked at the Mamiya 6, but the cost is quite high. I am interested
in the rangefinders because of their lighter weight, quieter operation,
and simpler operation.

   If anyone has comments, suggestions, or any knowledge of these
cameras, it would be greatly appreciated. Also. if anyone is 
interested in selling these cameras, let me know through e-mail.

   Thanks,

   Niels Jensen
   707-794-4613
   e-mail:  nielsj@hpsad.sad.hp.com
From: watters@darwin.genetics.washington.edu (Mike Watters)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Bargains in Moscow?
Date: 11 Jan 93 19:29:02 GMT
Article-I.D.: shelley.1ishpuINNdmj
Organization: University of Washington
NNTP-Posting-Host: darwin.genetics.washington.edu

I think it depends STRONGLY on the particular camera model in mind.  My only
experience with Soviet equipment (at this moment, I just got another piece
today) is with their panoramic's.  There used to be two different ones:
the Horizont (just like a widelux) and the FT-2 (a real dinosaur; one f-stop
and only 3 shutter speeds).  The horizonts reputation is that it falls
apart at the smallest provocation.  (of course, the widelux has a similar
reputation).  My personal experience with the FT-2 is that it (as one would
expect from it's simplicity of construction) is virtuyally indestructable.
Construction tends to be of steel (unlike modern plastic composites) and
they have the appearance of being VERY sturdy.  There was a recent thread
about Leicas and their (supposed) ability to be stood on without harm.  I'm
not going to try it, but I suspect my FT-2 could be used as a formidable
weapon (it's kinda heavy) and still keep on working.  The optics on the
FT-2 are very good also.

mike

--
Mike
watters@genetics.washington.edu
Dept of Genetics, Univ of Washington  Seattle
(d) 206-543-1934   (e) 206-361-1156 
Newsgroups: rec.photo,tor.general
From: maclean@ecf.toronto.edu (MACLEAN Wallace James)
Subject: Re: Camera repair in Toronto
Followup-To: maclean@ecf.toronto.edu
Organization: University of Toronto, Engineering Computing Facility
Distribution: toronto
Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1993 03:42:04 GMT

In article <1993Jan12.113225.29932@newshub.ccs.yorku.ca> don@writer.yorku.ca (don Sinclair) writes:
>Can anyone suggest a place to get cameras repaired in Toronto?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Don Sinclair
>

Have you checked to see if your camera manufacturer has a Toronto area
office.  I know Canon, for example, does repairs at their facilities
in Mississauga (on Dixie Rd.)

James

-- 
------------------------------------------------------

  W. James MacLean
  maclean@ecf.toronto.edu
From: mic@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Marc Clarke)
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 03:10:36 GMT
Subject: Re: Help photographing in snow
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Ft. Collins, CO
Newsgroups: rec.photo

I always carry my Minolta X-700 inside a down jacket next to my chest
in that kid of weather.  Works great, so long as I keep the body of
the camera warm.

Don't breathe out while the viewfinder is near your mouth.  I
routinely take a huge breath, let part of it out, take the camera out
of my jacket, focus, take the shot, put the camera back into my
jacket, and then exhale.  If I do not get the shot off, I put the
camera back in my jacket and then breathe for a while.  Fogging either
the viewfinder or the lense optics with breath is a very real danger.

I have seen one fellow shoot from a tripod in cold weather using a
method I intend to try -- He sets up the tripod with a quick-release,
positions the camera, looks through the lense, focuses, etc.  He then
takes the camera off the tripod and puts it inside his jacket to warm
up.  When the body is warm (the batteries are warm), he takes it back
out, puts it on the tripod, checks alignment, takes the shot, and then
proceeds.

I use fresh (new) batteries for cold weather shooting -- the seem to
tolerate the cold much better than older (but still usable in warm
temperatures) batteries.  I also carry at least one spare set of new
batteries in my pocket where they stay warm and toasty.
Newsgroups: rec.photo