HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: Igniters
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 16:44:54 GMT

jackson@sn.jsc.nasa.gov writes:
: .....................................
: I have had a problem with Aerotech RMS G motor loads and chuffing.
: Never had a problem with the E and F loads. 
: I am not sure why this is. For the ISP loads since they are core-burners
: , I think all are, its easy to put a piece of thermalite boster on the
: CopperHead. 

Chuffing is usually caused when the grain is ignited at the nozzle end
of the motor instead of at the top end.

I have never had chuffing problems with ISP reloadables - I have never used
the similar Aerotech design.

Bill
From: Roger.Wilfong@umich.edu  (Roger Wilfong)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rockets
Subject: Re: Tracking
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993  08:09 edt
Organization: UofM Hospitals
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: robin.hosp.med.umich.edu
X-Newsreader: FTPNuz (DOS) v1.0

In Article <1993Jan27.013651.19941@aio.jsc.nasa.gov> "tes@motif.uucp (Thomas E. Smith)" says:
> 
> Try chasing a rocket with a G motor :) . 
 
I usually chase them on foot, occasionally in a car and a couple of times on 
a bike.  I think the only use for the G motor might be to give that extra 
spurt needed to catch up to the egg lofter and stomp on the parachute before 
it drags the egg capsule across the black :-)
 
- Roger
 
Newsgroups: rec.models.rockets
From: elder@enuxhb.eas.asu.edu (Greg Elder)
Subject: Re: Fun (Really!) at NARFUN
Followup-To: rec.models.rockets
Reply-To: elder@enuxhb.eas.asu.edu (Greg Elder)
Organization: Arizona State University, Tempe AZ
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 22:50:52 GMT

I will be attending NARFUN.  By the way, the SSS regular monthly meeting
is being held tomorrow evening.  I plan to attend.  If anybody has any
questions/comments concerning NARFUN that they would like me to bring up
there, just email to me.


--
Greg Elder                                        elder@enuxhb.eas.asu.edu
Department of Computer Science            or      elder@seine.eas.asu.edu
Arizona State University
From: Roger.Wilfong@umich.edu (Roger Wilfong)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rockets
Subject: Re: Tracking
Date: 26 Jan 93 14:09:00 GMT
Organization: UofM Hospitals
NNTP-Posting-Host: robin.hosp.med.umich.edu
X-Newsreader: FTPNuz (DOS) v1.0

In Article <MAINE.93Jan25195403@altair.dfrf.nasa.gov> "maine@altair.dfrf.nasa.gov (Richard Maine)" says:
> 
> That's still misleading.  I've seen several people in the past make
> the same mistake.  Presumably none of them are pilots (which I am) nor
> parachutists (which I'm not, but I presume they must have the right
> intuition even more strongly).  The lateral area has essentially
> nothing to do with either descent rate or descent angle.  Anything
> falling on a non-gliding parachute will move laterally with "exactly"
> (to as close as matters, excepting mainly transient gusts) the
> wind velocity, making lateral area irrelevant.
> 
 
Kind of shoots hole in the 'X-form' parachutes don't drift as far a regular 
parachutes theory.  Doesn't it?
From: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rockets
Subject: Re: Igniters
Date: 28 Jan 93 00:08:47 GMT
Organization: Indiana University

In article <1993Jan26.145748.3731@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com> billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson) writes:

>Note that the voltage applied tells us very little. We don't even know if
>that is sufficient voltage drop, across the ignitor, to cause it to ignite.
>All we know is that this is a minimum value - practical values are likely
>to be higher. How much, we cannot determine, because he did not tell us about
>his test setup.

>Now, this problem could have been eliminated very simply. All he would have
>had to do was measure the circuit current. Then, it does not matter how the 
>resistances of the circuit may be distributed. You know that, if a certain
>current flows, then the ignitor will function.

Well, actually, I think its a good idea, *provided* he measures
the actual voltage drop across the ignitor, or uses a current source
with very little internal resistance. Current is dependent only on 
the voltage drop and the resistance of the ignitor, and the latter
value can easily be determined and shouldn't vary from sample to 
sample.

Measuring either the current or voltage drop is difficult, since the 
reading is instantaneous (one the thing goes off your circuit is bro-
ken) so perhaps measuring cell voltage and using thick, short wires
might be a good compromise, especially if he uses nicads (very low 
internal resistance). Actually, this should be useful info, since (es-
peacially with smaller setups) one simply uses a given number of cells
to fire off the ignitor - one doesn't worry about building a current-
regulated circuit.




-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Iskandar Taib                          | The only thing worse than Peach ala
Internet: NTAIB@SILVER.UCS.INDIANA.EDU |    Frog is Frog ala Peach
Bitnet:   NTAIB@IUBACS                 !
Newsgroups: rec.models.rockets
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: Tracking
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 01:16:03 GMT

soc1070 writes:
: 
: As for decent rates, I think a basic problem would be that two
: different rockets, each exactly the same weight and with the 
: same size 'chutes, would fall at different rates, because the one
: with the larger exposed area (i.e. fins, tube, etc) would be carried
: further down wind. A one pound rocket and a one pound sphere with 
: identical chutes will not likely fall in the same place, so its
: difficult to say. In your case, what you computed was the *closest*
: possible distance.

This is a little misleading. They will both fall at the same rate.
They will not fall at the same descent angle - the one with the greater
lateral area of resistance will drift further.

Bill
From: dmonroe@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Darrel Monroe)
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: Clear finishes
Date: 26 Jan 1993 08:28:04 GMT
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin, Austin TX
Distribution: world
Reply-To: dmonroe@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Darrel Monroe)
NNTP-Posting-Host: huey.cc.utexas.edu
Originator: dmonroe@huey.cc.utexas.edu

In his post of 26 Jan 93, Eric Tang asks:
ET> Can anyone recommend a clear *NON-YELLOWING* protective coating for 
ET> models? 

ET> Thusfar, I've tried Testors Dullcoat and Glosscoat and I don't really 
ET> trust them.  I've also tried airbrushing Future floorwax/acrylic and 
ET> haven't gotten the smooth finish I wanted nor an odorless model - it's 
ET> apple-cinnamon! :P 

ET> Any opinions?  Recommendations / suggestions?
ET> How are the MicroScale products?  Many thanks!  - Eric

Eric, this is one of the most difficult things to answer, along with finding 
the perfect white paint that covers well, won't yellow, and isn't chalky.
I've experimented with several products.  I don't use glosscote anymore, that 
yellow in the bottle scares me, and  it yellows even more with time.  I don't 
like Future either, it too will yellow with time.

Currently for gloss finishing, I use a decoupage glaze called Deep Flex.  
Unfortunately, I haven't been able to find anymore, but I have a good amount.  
It is crystal clear, and starts out in the bottle with a consistancy like 
molasses.  It is xylene based, so I thin it with DioSol for airbrushing.  It 
produces a gloss good enough for me for decaling.  It is high gloss when 
brushed on crafts, but that xylene base wouldn't be too good brushed on 
models.

Something that I want to try, that one of our club members talked at a recent 
meeting about is using automotive lacquer for high gloss finishes on cars 
models.  It is crystal clear, non yellowing, hard finish, and has a uv filter 
in it so it will even protect the paints under it from yellowing.  It produces 
a good gloss when applied, but to really get the shine you need to polish it 
out with some kind of polishing kit or even car polish.  The automotive 
lacquer is expensive, but the results are great.

Another friend swears by Pactra Acrylic clear finish.  I've seen his work, and 
it is nice.  It is hard, clear, and polishes well.

My suggestion is to try different things.  I try to make every model an 
experiment with some new technique, product, etc.  It's the only way to find 
out what works best for YOU.

Darrel Monroe
dmonroe@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu

Modelling is but an illusion, just a shadow of the original.
From: marks@studsys.mscs.mu.edu (Mark Storin)
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: Re: Advise on 1/48 F-117 Stealth
Date: 28 Jan 1993 17:20:12 GMT
Organization: Marquette University - Department MSCS
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: studsys.mscs.mu.edu

In article <C1FnKy.8G1@da_vinci.it.uswc.uswest.com> rray@lookout.it.uswc.uswest.com (Randy J. Ray) writes:
>Monogram. Probably the most accurate kit, comes with a sheet of photo-etch, 
>and they have a good track record for well-detailed cockpits (not that the
>military will give anyone a really good look at the cockpit). And not too
>expensive, especially compared to most 1/48 scale jets.

Regarding the F-117A cockpit, the most recent issue of FineScale Modeler
contains photographs of the interior of an F-117 cockpit. Supposedly
representative of the standard F-117, they are more likely an early FSD craft
as the cockpit has little resemblence to that seen in the current F-117.  The
cockpit in the mag is full of old analog gauges and no CRT's are seen, whereas
the cockpit I saw on TV ( video taken during the gulf war) shows three large
CRT's on the main intrument panel. One is central and above the two others
which are on either side.  I wish I had been recording that show!


-- 

- Mark A. Storin
- marks@studsys.mscs.mu.edu

Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: gse@ida.liu.se (Goran Sedvall)
Subject: Re: Camouflage painting opinions needed!
Organization: CIS Dept, Univ of Linkoping, Sweden
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 08:29:11 GMT

pscotto@MtHolyoke.edu (Peter J. Scotto) writes:


>OK, I realize that airbrushes produce a really great finish,
>but I've got a problem with some of the stuff I've seen.

>When I see models with say, RAF bi-color patterns or modern
>American tri-color patterns, I see alot of this feather edge
>freehand stuff, where one color kind of feathers off into another.

>However, on the actual  aircraft and vehicles I have seen, the
>lines of demarcation between colors seem pretty distinct and should be
>more so on the smaller scale model.  So what's going on here?
>Is this a case of the tool driving the modeller?

>Specifically, I'm working on an A-10 now with a three color
>camouflage pattern (dark green, medium green, and dark grey).
>When I look at the plans, what I see represented are distinct
>patches of color, but when I look at the box, I see this indistinct
>feathery stuff.  My inclination is to mask and use the airbrush or
>use a brush.

>Any opinions or advice on this?

>--Peter Scotto


Argg, I reccongize your problem. RAF in particular have very sharp edges
but not so sharp so one can use Maskol or tape to mask the area. If one
airbrush the edges on free hand will the edges be too soft. One way witch
I use, even if it's a lot of work and not perfect, is to use tape and
add a sewing-thread under the edge of the tape, so the edge is slightly
lifted. That gives a sharp edge, slightly softed. The tricky part is to
add the thread. If anyone have a better suggestion I would appreciate that
a lot.

Goran
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: wesm@mbunix.mitre.org (Miller)
Subject: Advise on 1/48 F-117 Stealth
Organization: The MITRE Corp., Bedford, Ma.
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 16:20:32 GMT

I'm looking to build an F-117 in 1/48th scale. I know at least Monogram and 
Testors have kits. Is there anyone else and in your humble opinions, who make
the better kit. Thanks.


Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: gse@ida.liu.se (Goran Sedvall)
Subject: Re: Advice on painting road grime
Organization: CIS Dept, Univ of Linkoping, Sweden
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 09:49:30 GMT

peterco@eff.org (Peter Cohen) writes:

>So let me get this straight- you use a piece of wire to bisect the spray? 
>That's an interesting concept.  I might try that!


If it is my posting you are referering to, so is it correct. Perhaps
you need to decrease the air pressure and elaborate with diffrent 
angle when you spray the paint. I usually dilute the Humbrol paint
for mud and dirt with white spirit and that doesn't harm the basecote
and gives better splatter effect. Dilute more than usual.

Goran

Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: assaf@acad2.alaska.edu
Subject: Klingon Bird of Prey
Organization: University of Alaska
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 14:29:33 GMT

	I have been trying to find a decent model of the Klingon Bird of Prey. 
The only one available is in the AMT/ERTL kit and it is trash. While reading
some the posts on the Enterprise someone mentioned a scratch built Bird of
Prey.  Could someone tell me which magazine and issue.  I am also looking for a 
decent Excelsior and Reliant.  Could someone please help

Thanks in advance-Shane Forth
From: glz@kalle.impab.se (Goran Lowkrantz)
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: Re: MIG-29 with drop tank
Date: 21 Jan 93 12:03:50 GMT
Organization: IM Program AB, Stockholm, Sweden

In article <19JAN199316254187@ariel.lerc.nasa.gov>, carey@ariel.lerc.nasa.gov (Charlie Carey (carey@moefine.lerc.nasa.gov)) writes:
> Does anyone know of a MIG-29 kit with the long-range, subsonic, ceneterline
> drop tank included (accurately with APU? vent in rear and banana shape).
> 
> CC
> 
> carey@lerc.nasa.gov 
> 

I have seen a releasenote for a Verlinden detail set for the Monogram 1/48
MiG-29 for release Feb-Mar.

-- 

  Goran Lowkrantz           Email    : glz@impab.se Tel: Nat    08-6507525
  IM Program AB             CompuServ: 100030,347        Int +46 8 6507525
  Fleminggatan 56                                   Fax: Nat    08-6502870
S-112 45 Stockholm,  Sweden                              Int +46 8 6502870
Xref: sparky rec.models.scale:913 rec.models.railroad:3044
From: moore@msai.com (Wesley Moore)
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale,rec.models.railroad
Subject: Info on Airbrush-Compressor
Date: 22 Jan 1993 13:41:56 -0500
Organization: Mitsubishi Semiconductor America, Inc., Durham, N.C.
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: pluto.msai.com

I have been investigating the possibility of buying an air-brush and 
compressor for use on plastic model WW II planes and tanks, HO trains 
and NASCAR cars.

I have been told that a Paasche VL air brush would be a wise investment.
Others say that cleaning may be a problem with the Paasche VL.  Does anyone 
have any comments on the Paasche VL?

Also, I do not have any information regarding air compressors.  My
constraints on an air compressor is that it be fairly compact and
portable and that it not be very noisy (It will only be used for models).
I am looking for a good (quality) compressor at a reasonable price.
Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Wes
I can be contacted at wmoore@msai.com.
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: gse@ida.liu.se (Goran Sedvall)
Subject: Re: Experience with "Music with Miniature"
Organization: CIS Dept, Univ of Linkoping, Sweden
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 12:26:13 GMT

chena@cs.uq.oz.au (Anthony Cheng) writes:
[deleted question]

>As a side question, what is the best method to "glue" two pieces of white
>metal together?

Superglue or two-component epoxy glue works fine.

Goran
From: eric@track.physics.usfca.edu (Eric Benton)
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: Re: Methods for masking on polystyrene
Date: 19 Jan 93 23:40:36 GMT
Organization: University of San Francisco
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8]

The current issue of Fine Scale Modeler has an article about using
parafilm as a masking material. Parafilm is a roll of thin parafin wax that
chemists use to seal containers and such. The article made it sound like
the greatest masking material in history. I've got some, but haven't tried
it yet. Another masking tape that seems to be popular is Blenderm surgical
tape. I have no experience with this either. 

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
	Eric Benton   (eric@physics.usfca.edu)
        Physics Research Laboratory
	University of San Francisco
	San Francisco, CA 94117
        ph: (415)386-0254
	fax: (415)666-2469
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: tww@mullauna.cs.mu.OZ.AU (Terence Wai-Juinn WONG)
Subject: Lacquer on Acryalic on Enamel??
Organization: Computer Science, University of Melbourne, Australia
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1993 09:57:40 GMT

 Hi!
     I was just wondering...would it be okay to use an overcoat of acrylic clear
 varnish (Tamiya) over a coloured (gold) enamel (Humbrol) and then put a coat
 of Lacquer varnish (also Humbrol) over the acrylic?  I intend that the acrylic
 varnish act as a barrier to prevent the lacquer from attacking the airbrushed
 paint underneath.
     Would this work?  I don't have much experience with lacquers and wonder
 what is the best method of using them.
     Also, are lacquer paints/varnishes suitable for objects which will be
 handled a lot?  I say this with the model in mind (a badge).

     Thanks for any help...
     tww@mullauna.cs.mu.oz.au


         -------------------------------------------------------------
          Kate: "He's a Mogwai..."
        		             Gremlins2 - Amblin Entertainment
         -------------------------------------------------------------
From: augustho@aludra.usc.edu (August Horvath)
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: Good scale drawings and photos
Date: 21 Jan 1993 21:00:17 -0800
Organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA
NNTP-Posting-Host: aludra.usc.edu

Some of you who don't normally browse radio-control
publications might be interested in a short article in the
current issue of "RC Modeler" about finding and making scale
drawings of aircraft.  The author's point is that a lot of
published scale drawings, including very authoritative ones,
are way off.  Various solutions are discussed, including
ways to check scale drawings against photos, and at the end
of the piece, a computer program is offered for making
accurate scale drawings from as little as one photograph.

I think the article's main points are good, but using photos
to make scale drawings has some pitfalls not mentioned by
the author.  These are illustrated in the author's reprinted
example of a comparison of some Albatros drawings with
photos, in which I think some unwarranted inferences are
drawn from the photos and some unfair criticisms made of the
drawings.

As for the computer program, I have no experience with it
and not much information is provided in the article, but it
seems to me that the program must require the specification
of a good deal more inputs than just the outlines in the
photograph, and would be very susceptible to garbage-in-
garbage-out.

Anyway, just thought you'd like to know about the article.

August Horvath <augustho@usc.edu>

Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: alavigne@bmerh930.bnr.ca (Andrew Lavigne)
Subject: Acrylic Clearcoats
Organization: Bell Northern Research
Distribution: na
Date: 26 Jan 93 10:53:46


Can an acrylic clearcoat (gloss or dull) be placed over any kind of paint
with no problem (ie - enamels, lacquers, acrylics)?   What kind of a coat
do you get?  does it have any unusual texture?   does it harm decals???
Can decals be applied over an acrylic clearcoat?

Thanks,
andrew
alavigne@bnr.ca
From: chena@cs.uq.oz.au (Anthony Cheng)
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: Experience with "Music with Miniature"
Date: 23 Jan 93 02:46:50 GMT
Reply-To: chena@cs.uq.oz.au

"Music in Miniature" is the brand name/company which specialises white metal
figures for military bands.  Has anyone assembled any figure from this
company?  Are the figures good reproduction?  I would like to hear any of your
experience.

As a side question, what is the best method to "glue" two pieces of white
metal together?

Thanks.

Anthony
--
  _-_|\	       Anthony S.K. Cheng					      0
 /     *  <--  Department of Computer Science 	Tel:   +61 7 365 2429	     <
 \_.-._/       The University of Queensland 	Fax:   +61 7 365 1999	    /\
      v	       Brisbane, QLD 4072, Australia 	Email: chena@cs.uq.oz.au   8 oo
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: alavigne@bmerh930.bnr.ca (Andrew Lavigne)
Subject: Re: Lacquer on Acryalic on Enamel??
Organization: Bell Northern Research
Date: 25 Jan 93 09:54:19


> Hi!
>     I was just wondering...would it be okay to use an overcoat of acrylic clea\r
> varnish (Tamiya) over a coloured (gold) enamel (Humbrol) and then put a coat
> of Lacquer varnish (also Humbrol) over the acrylic?  I intend that the acrylic varnish act as a barrier to prevent the lacquer from attacking the airbrushed
> paint underneath.
>     Would this work?  I don't have much experience with lacquers and wonder
> what is the best method of using them.

Actually, I've wondering about this kind of thing myself....

Does anyone have a good knowledge of what can go on top of what, what will
definitely 'eat' what, etc, and post it in the form of a table???

This info would be great...

Andrew
alavigne@bnr.ca
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: Pontiac Fiero Model
From: The One and Only <TLC112@psuvm.psu.edu>
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 21:11:30 EST
Organization: Penn State University

It seems that these are out of production.  Anyone have a suggestion on
where I can find a couple of them??   I'm an AeroSpace Engr. Student at PSU,
Have access to a wind tunnel, and have plans on customizing my car.

Would sure make life easier....  Open to suggestions.   Thanks

                                                          Terry L. Cary
                                                          TLC112@PSUVM
                                                          CompOp PSU CAC
From: mew@controls.ccd.harris.com (Mark E. Warthling)
Subject: Re: Which 1/72 A-10?
Organization: Harris Controls Division
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 15:10:36 GMT

In article <1jkfe0INN5sf@slab.mtholyoke.edu> pscotto@MtHolyoke.edu (Peter J. Scotto) writes:
>
>Can anyone recommend a good A-10 kit in 1/72?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Peter Scotto

The Acadamy Minicraft Kit is probably your best bet, nice kit and 
inexpensive...

Mark

Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: sharris@chopin.udel.edu (Scott A Harris)
Subject: Help with removing putty lines from sight Please!!
Organization: University of Delaware
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 18:35:08 GMT


Here's the problem:  I was working on a model and used squadron green
putty to fill the seams.  I sanded, and sanded and sanded, airbrushed,
and airbrushed, and sanded and sanded and airbrushed etc.  Well
after the final coat (I thought) of paint was applied you can still see 
where the putty is.  I'm using Testors flat black to airbrush with.
Any suggestions on how to get rid of the putty marks?

Thanks

Scott
-- 
Scott Harris
sharris@chopin.udel.edu