HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 22:15:07 -0500 
From: Chris Beasley <cb1p+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: Hobby Lobby Sport 500
	<1992Dec17.144119.10331@aio.jsc.nasa.gov>

I for one am interested.  A couple of folks in my club have been
testing a concept 30 with a 46 in it as per the recent RCM articles
and it outflies most of the 60 size helis in our club (PARR)  

I am also interested in hearing about your experiences with the
vertol.  I assume that this is the hirobo kit?  That:s a 30 size isn:t
it?  How well does it fly?  Is it worth the money?  Does any other
company offer a vertol model?

Finally, I seek information about electric helis.  So far all four of
the helis I have owned have been gas (2 stroke glow actually) powered
and I am getting fed up with all the BS that is required to keep them
running properly.  I would like to move into the realm of electric
helis but I am not currently satisfied with what is available.  the
Kalt and Kyosho are too small and would require me to invest more
money in micro servos, gyros, Rxs etc.  What I am wondering
(dreaming?) is if I could take a standard heli kit (30 to 50 size) and
make the conversion to electric.  Offhand I dont see why not except
for a lack of knowledge of the availability of suitable motors/speed
controls/batteries etc.  Of course, there may be a good set of reasons
why noboday has done this yet... or have they?

Well, I:m looking forward to hearing from you...
Later.
b
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: antoine@osd.ulaval.ca (Antoine Gautier)
Subject: Stores in Austin
Organization: Universite Laval
Distribution: USA
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 19:12:00 GMT

Hi world,

I will be in Austin in january, I am looking for a place to purchase a  
radio + some building stuff.  Any recommendations?
Thks world!

--
+-------------------------------------------------------+
|    Antoine Gautier                                    |
|    Departement OSD, FSA                               |
|    Universite Laval, Quebec, PQ                       |
+-------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib)
Subject: Re: Gear drive & Prop
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 16:22:01 GMT

In article <Byyzp8.G3o@inews.Intel.COM> user@machine.domain writes:

>Has anyone ever marketed a gear drive for gas engines?  Whatever
>advantage it gives to an electric motor should also apply to
>the gas engine.  (Or is it less weight to simply use a bigger
>engine that add a gearbox to a smaller one?)

There have been several used in competition that I've heard of. One
of the top Pattern fliers has a .60 on a belt reduction drive. There
have even been pictures of someone's (Dean Pappas'?) contrarotating 
prop setup - two gear or belt-driven .60s, one facing forward, the 
other backwards, driving concentric shafts.

Theres also someone who sells a "radial" consisting of five K&B .20
or .28 Sportsters facing backwards driving a common reduction gear. 
Note how this gets around the reverse rotation problem.



-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Iskandar Taib                          | The only thing worse than Peach ala
Internet: NTAIB@SILVER.UCS.INDIANA.EDU |    Frog is Frog ala Peach
Bitnet:   NTAIB@IUBACS                 !
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: gpayne@gn.ecn.purdue.edu (Gregory A. Payne)
Subject: extensions from engine to propeller?
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 92 21:36:08 GMT

I would like peoples opinions and experiences on using a shaft
to move the propeller farther in front of the engine (instead of
'directly' in front of it).  I curious about problems this leads to
also.

Thanks
Greg Payne
gpayne@gn.ecn.purdue.edu
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: goza@carla.JSC.NASA.GOV (Mike Goza)
Subject: Re: Quest for heli power (was Re: Hobby Lobby Sport 500)
Organization: IGOAL
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 14:14:33 GMT

I'm after the power for the same reasons that Greg is.  The hot dog 
flying maneuvers can eat the power of an engine.  If you really want
to see a power drain, hit hard tail rotor at high pitch angles.  Bog
city!!

I do not claim to be an engine expert, but experience has taught me 
some things.  Mainly, go for the power, but make sure it is highly
RELIABLE.  The higher the performance of the engine, the pickier it
tends to be.  My solution has always been cubic inches and good 
engine design.  I know of people who blueprint and modify engines and
really get some power out of them, but they know what they are doing
in the engine department.  I do not.  Therefore I try to find a stock
engine/pipe/fuel/plug combo that produces the power I'm after.  In the
60 arena for me that has been Rossi 60 5-port, Vtech pipe on peacemaker
header, 0% fuel, and a Rossi R4 plug.  There are better ones, but that
works for me.  I would actually like to hear other combinations to see
what others have come up with.

Back to the original question, for your 32 you might try 30% nitro fuel
and different plugs and head shims to get more power.  You could also 
blueprint the engine as well, but you might just want to get the 
shuttle conversion kit for a 46 instead.

Just my $0.02 worth,

Mike Goza
goza@cheers.jsc.nasa.gov
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: rcb@ncsu.edu (Randy Buckland)
Subject: Re: extensions from engine to propeller?
Organization: North Carolina State University
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 13:28:00 GMT

lew@4ccvw33.scg.hac.com (Lyman Lew) writes:
>In article <1992Dec14.213608.19647@gn.ecn.purdue.edu> gpayne@gn.ecn.purdue.edu (Gregory A. Payne) writes:
>>I would like peoples opinions and experiences on using a shaft
>>to move the propeller farther in front of the engine (instead of
>>'directly' in front of it).  I curious about problems this leads to
>>also.
>I haven't seen any problems in using shaft extensions. You will 
>need to bore out a larger hole in the prop for the prop nut to
>tight down on the prop. The only manufacturer I'm aware of that
>carries prop extensions is Fox Mfg. They have it in 1/2 inch and
>3/4 inch lengths for 1/4-28 or 5/16-24 threads. 

One big reason for this may be that Fox seems to make shorter engines than
others like OS. I had a kit with a big cowl and the plans showed an OS 40 FP.
When I tried to use my Fox 40, I had to put spacers behind the engine mount
to move things forward about 1/2 inch.
--
Randy Buckland                               "It's hard to work
North Carolina State University               in a group when you're
randy_buckland@ncsu.edu (919) 515-5491        omnipotent"       -- Q
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: etxjema@kk270.ericsson.se (ETX-TT-KB Andersson Mikael)
Subject: Dog Fight Rules (Again)
Organization: Ericsson
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 11:26:54 GMT

I've posted this article a while ago, but the response was low.
So here we go again:

Hi,
I've just read an article in a Swedish newspaper about a RC-plane that looks almost as a WWII fighter plane. Now this plane seems very easy and cheap to build.

But what are the rules for a "dog fight". The article only mentioned maximum weight (1276 gram) for the plane and a maximum engine size of 2.5 cc.

Could someone please post the rules.


I've found an old article with uncomplete rules but, here's the few rules I know about:

1. The models should be in scale 1/12 of planes that operated 1935-1950 with painting that is the same as the original.
 No points for the scale factor (?) but max variation of wingspan etc. is 5 %.

2. Max. engine: .20 for planes with starengine (is this the right expression ?)
 and max .15 for others. Twins may have engines in max size .10. Engines without a throttel is not allowed.

3. Max. weight is (I think) 1.2 kg.

4 You fly with at most 6 models in the air at the same time over a limited area.

5. The competition lasts for 7 minutes after the first plane is in the air.

6. The plane has a 10 m long streamer and points are delivered for cuts and collisions.

7. Bonus points for the first plane in the air, penalty points for crash.

One judge/plane.


			competition area
		|________________________________________| security line
line judge->	|<-------------- 140 meters ------------>| line judge w flag.
		|		 		 	 |
				pilots and
			 	judges.
		
		-----------------------------------------
				Audience (50 meters from security line)


Mikael
From: chaffin@sab45.larc.nasa.gov (Mark Chaffin)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Super Decathalon 40
Date: 19 Dec 1992 20:54:28 GMT
Organization: NASA Langley Research Center, Hampton, VA  USA
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: sab45.larc.nasa.gov

In article <1992Dec19.014510.1216@iex.uucp>, mikem@iex.UUCP (Mike McKinney) writes:
|> In article <1gl8p3INNnnp@rave.larc.nasa.gov> chaffin@vision.larc.nasa.gov (Mark Chaffin) writes:
|> >In article <92350.124228WOLPERT@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>, <WOLPERT@MAINE.MAINE.EDU> writes:
|> >|> Well, chalk up another wrecked Decathlon. 
|> 
|> >Well, mine will be rebuilt.  I've always liked the plane.  Of course,
|> >I always liked the Piper Cherokee until I crashed mine.
|> 
|> 	I've only been flying about 1.5 yr. and thought a Decathlon would be 
|> fun and probably will get one.  However, this fall I got a Great Planes 
|> Cherokee.  First Great Planes kit I've built - I'm impressed, a very good 
|> quality kit and I'll probably buy more of their kits.  As for the Cherokee,
|> this is a great plane - I love flying it!  Mine is powered with an OS 46 and 
|> has plenty of power.  It climbs, loops, rolls, tumbles...  Fellow flyers can 
|> tell I'm having lots of fun when I'm flying it.  But it does have sensitive
|> sticks so I've moved the CG forward a touch and added expo to the elevator.
|> The only gripe I've heard at the field it that it doesn't fly very scale ;-).
|> 

  I had the same problem with mine.  I just couldn't convince everyone
that inverted flight was something the full scale Cherokees did routinely.
It is a great kit, and a pretty airplane.  Mine had a tendency to drop a
wing when it got too slow, so my landings were usually a little hot.  Fun
plane, though.  I miss mine.

-- 
/-\|/-\|/-\|/-\/-\|/-\/-\|/-\/-\|/-\/-\|/-\/-\|/-\/-\|/-\/-\|/-\/-\|/-\/-\|/
|            ____       _         Man plays only when he is in             -
\         | __\_\_o____/_|        the full sense of the word a             \
-         <[___\_\_-----<         man, and he is only wholly man           |
/         |  o'                   when he is playing.                      /
|                                       -Friedrich Schiller                \
\-/|\-/|\-/|\-/|\-/|\-/|\-/|\-/|\-/|\-/|\-/|\-/|\-/|\-/|\-/|\-/|\-/|\-/|\-/|
From: sbixby@cup.portal.com (Steven W Bixby)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Slope Gliders
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 92 11:42:53 PST
Organization: The Portal System (TM)


>I was thinking of buying a Sig Ninja as a second slope plane, my first
>being a Bobcat that is a little under the weather
>after a failed attempt at an inside loop.  Any pros or cons on this
>kit?  Will it take regular servos?  Any other recommendations for a not-too-ex
p
>ensive intermediate slope plane?

This is a pretty good plane.  Not particularily fast or aerobatic, but
a good solid flyer that will do well in light-lift conditions, and yet
be able to hang in there for moderatly high-wind.  The kit builds quickly
with foam wings and a lite-ply interlocking fuselage.  Plenty of room for
standard radio gear.  The fuselage is a little bit on the weak side for
rough landings.  But if you have sand or grass landing area, no problem
at all - if you tend to spear the ground on landings, I'd suggest using
2oz fiberglass on the entire fuselage to strengthen it up.  Again, not
necessary, but it may save you some cracks later.

>Also, I noticed a plane, a Sig Samuri, in the shop that I could not find
>in any 8-month-old ads or catalogs.  Is this a new plane?  Just wondering,
>but it's a little over my price range.

This is a relatively new design, I think... just out a few months ago.
I wouldn't suggest this for a relative newcomer.  The plane flies on
rotating wings - pitcherons.  You'll need ball-bearing, high-torque
servos, not cheap!  As well as mixing controls, which usually means
"computer radio".

I am interested in this kit - anyone else have any experience with
the Samurai??

Go with the Ninja though - great plane.  Or, a (Super) Cheetah - ugly
as sin, but it flies great, and is tolerant of rough handling.

  -swb-  (Steve Bixby, sbixby@cup.portal.com)
From: davel@sad.hp.com (Dave Luiz)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Quest for heli power (was Re: Hobby Lobby Sport 500)
Date: 18 Dec 92 17:30:36 GMT
Article-I.D.: srgenprp.BzGtz0.9K3
Organization: HP Sonoma County (SRSD/MWTD/MID)
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

You might try fitting an OS 46 carburetor on your OS 32. A guy at the 
local field has done this to his ZX and claims there was a noticable
increase in performance. However, this may be a very subjective measure.


Dave Luiz
From: bloom@inland.com
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Super Decathalon 40
Date: 16 Dec 92 08:37:18 CST
Distribution: usa
Organization: Inland Steel Company; East Chicago, IN

In article <92350.124228WOLPERT@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>, <WOLPERT@MAINE.MAINE.EDU> writes:
> Well, chalk up another wrecked Decathlon.  A guy at our field did a
> beautiful job building one.  On its second flight, it fell out of an
> inside loop, went into a terrible spin and literally disintegrated
> on contact.  The owner/pilot was an experienced,  although reckless
> flyer who avowed not to rebuild it or any other Decathlon.


Gee, sounds like the pilot was also a reckless builder.  How does 
an airplane "fall" out of an inside loop?  Lack of airspeed perhaps, 
or too much elevator throw and it snap-rolls out.  Did the pilot 
continue to hold full elevator after the plane was already in a 
snap roll?  I've test flown a GP Decathlon with an OS .70 4cycle 
and had no problems whatsoever with the airplane.  The low time 
pilot who built the plane also has no trouble flying the plane. 
This is his 2nd powered plane, but he has built many gliders and is 
an excellent builder.

I have also seen 2 EZ Decathlons fly with no problems whatsoever. 

I would guess the guy at your field got doesn't follow instructions 
well.  The plane was probably set up tail-heavy or with way too much 
elevator throw.
From: rbono@necis.UUCP (Rich)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Checking Airborne Batteries
Date: 15 Dec 92 16:36:01 GMT
Organization: still seeking it

In article <1992Dec14.160925.28830@mlb.semi.harris.com>, mwp@ms9.mis.semi.harris.com (Mark W. Poole) wrote:
> Rich (rbono@necis.UUCP) wrote:
> : 
> :  I don't use one of these.  Instead I came across a unit called a "GO-LIGHT"
> : (I forget the name of the manufacturer). These sell for about $10.00.  It
> : consists of a bi-colored LED (red and green), and a very small circuit board
> 
> Rich, my attempts at email bounced.  Can you please post the
> manufacturer(address and phone number) for the "go_light".  Its
> exactly what I'm looking for, and the mail-order houses don't
> have it.
> 

Well,

  For those interested, I believe that the manufacture is "ZZ Industries",
or some such thing (sorry, being at work I don't have the details). Since not
having the address or number here at work is a little hard to give you
these details.

 I can tell you where you can purchase these:

   Rivendell Electronics
   8 Londonderry Road
   Londonderry, NH

   (603) 434-5371

   The price is between $10 and $17 depending on which version you
order.

  Disclaimer: Just a happy customer!
 
  By the way, Rivendell seems to have 'better than Tower' prices on many
items... be sure and ask for their 'list'.

  And tell them that "Rich" send you!

 Hope this helps,

  Rich 
-- 
 /**************************************************************************\
 * Rich Bono                     IMRICH         UUCP:rbono@necis.ma.nec.com * 
 * (508) 635-6300                 NM1D          AMPR: nm1d@nm1d.nh.usa.noam * 
 \**************************************************************************/
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: kaiser@elec.canterbury.ac.nz (Chris Kaiser)
Subject: Re: Slope Gliders
Organization: Electrical Engineering, University of Canterbury, New Zealand
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 23:52:02 GMT

In article <Bz99AL.Fs8@inews.Intel.COM>, dbraun@cad636.intel.com (Doug Braun ) writes:
> 
> I was thinking of buying a Sig Ninja as a second slope plane, my first
> being a Bobcat that is a little under the weather
> after a failed attempt at an inside loop.  Any pros or cons on this
> kit?  Will it take regular servos?  Any other recommendations for a not-too-expensive intermediate slope plane?

From what I've seen of Ninja's, they seem to be quite rugged planes and
fly reasonably well. Probably a good second plane, as they are very
aerobatic and take knocks quite well.

> Also, I noticed a plane, a Sig Samuri, in the shop that I could not find
> in any 8-month-old ads or catalogs.  Is this a new plane?  Just wondering,
> but it's a little over my price range.

A guy in our club has just got one of these Samuri. He was very impressed
with the kit, especially the fuselage moulding. This model uses wingtwist
for both roll and pitch control - although it can be built with a separate
elevator. The wing twist feature means that you need high torque servos,
preferably with metal gears to prevent stripping in a heavy landing. The
model itself is suprisingly small - it seems tiny compared to a Ninja,
but some of that is due to the extremely thin fuselage (servos fit inline,
and the fuse is only just wider than a single servo - a Futaba PCM Rx
wouldn't fit, but the FM equivalent did).

As for flying, it's one awesome machine! It's very light and will slow
right down to hang around in light lift. Put the nose down however and
it really picks up speed. The roll rate is phenominal - the fastest I've
seen on a slope soarer. Loops can be very tight, and it seemed to track
well through them. On it's first outing it comfortably won a slope race,
and the guy was flying quite conservatively. You have to watch the speed
closely with this machine, it really does accelerate fast. On one fly-by
it developed a rather nasty wing flutter, probably due to too fast
through some turbulence close to the slope. It remained controllable
however, and the problem didn't recur.

Chris Kaiser

Postgrad, Elec. Eng. Dept.
University of Canterbury
Christchurch, NEW ZEALAND


Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: larry@peak.nmsu.edu (Evil Engineer doin' it the Cowboy Way)
Subject: Re: extensions from engine to propeller?
Organization: New Mexico State University, MetaPhysical Science Laboratory
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 17:32:30 GMT

>>>>> On Mon, 14 Dec 92 21:36:08 GMT, gpayne@gn.ecn.purdue.edu (Gregory A. Payne) said:

Gregory> I would like peoples opinions and experiences on using a shaft
Gregory> to move the propeller farther in front of the engine (instead of
Gregory> 'directly' in front of it).  I curious about problems this leads to
Gregory> also.

Controlline stunters of years past used to extend the of the [typical Fox]
.35 engines 1/2 or 3/4 inch. You could buy a little machined adaptor from
Veco I think. Apparently they worked fairly well. I thought it was a poor
idea, but it sure improved appearance.

With a Fox .35 it really helps, but more modern .35s and .40s have a
crankshaft which is about that much longer anyway.

I don't know about really LONG extensions, but I suspect you need some
very good bearings supporting it.

L.
"Yeh, Buddy..            | larry@psl.nmsu.edu (Larry Cunningham)|  _~~_
 I've got your COMPUTER! | % Physical Science Laboratory        | (O)(-)
 Right HERE!!"           | New Mexico State University          |  /..\ 
 (computer THIS!)        | Las Cruces, New Mexico, USA 88003    |   <> 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Disclaimer: Opinions expressed here are CORRECT, mine, and not PSLs or NMSUs..
Tularosa: tullies, roses, lava, white sands, and home of THEM! (atomic ants).
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: joeg@bcstec.ca.boeing.com (Edward J. Gleason)
Subject: Dove version of Chuperosa
Organization: Boeing
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 20:46:29 GMT

Yesterday I got my Christmas present in the mail:

	A Chuperosa 2M and an Alcoyne 2M.  The
guy at Northeast Sailplane Products said that I
should get the "Dove" option for the Chup.  I
asked why should I do this and he said 'cause
it's neat.  I am a real hard sell so I said
sure.  Anyway here is this nice glass fuse and no
mention of what to do with it anywhere in the
plans or instruction manual.  I have a vague suspicion
that the fuse is a sort of generic one but it
does look neat.  Now for my problem.

I have no experience with glass structures but have 
glassed wing center sections etc.  These are also my
first foam wings but I did get the vacuum bagging
kit.

I would like a few ideas about:
	attaching the tail group 
	securing the control rods in the aft fuse
	design of structure to accept the wing bolt 
	installation of a tow hook
	any hints about servo mounting
	any favored battery configuration.  

or any other tips about the above kits.

Thanks
Joe Gleason	joeg@bcstec.ca.boeing.com
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc,misc.forsale
From: dc@ais.org (David Daniels)
Subject: RC Car system for sale
Organization: UMCC
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1992 22:19:13 GMT

 
I have the following for sale:
 
Charger: ProStech Super Charger Ac/Dc 702
  Trickle charge
  15 Minute timer
  6/7 cell switchable 
  DC12V IN +/-
  
Transmitter: Futaba Magnum Racer
 (FP-T2PKA) Gun type
  Throttle trim
  Steering rate adjuster
  Two trimmers for throttle servo travel volume
  Neutral adjuster
  Servo reversing switch
   -Missing antenna
 
Car: Hornet 
  In very bad condition.
  Suggest buying only if you plan on getting a different car, 
  or rebuilding this one.  Dosen't run a of now. 
 
   I would like $70+shipping for the above. 
   Feel free to make an offer. 
 
dc@ais.org
 

-- 
________________________________________________________________________
\ E-Mail: dc@ais.org        /\ Comin' from the unpolitically correct    \
 \__________________________\/\ half of this world refered to as       //
                             \_\ The ProjectZ!________________________//
From: mmarks@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Matthew D Marks)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: pontoons & wheels
Date: 16 Dec 92 21:17:50 GMT
Organization: The Ohio State University
X-Mailer: ELM [version 2.3 PL11]


So, with my love for biplanes and pontoons, (and with the hope of combining the
two)  how do I build a set of pontoons that will allow me to take off of 
*either* land or water without changing the landing gear arrangement?

And if the wheels are contained within wheel wells in the pontoons, what will 
prevent the water from creating excess drag across the wheel wells?  i.e. see 
diagram...

           ___                     ___
   _______/_o_\___________________/_o_\______________________________
   |                                                           ______|
   |_________________________     _____               ________/
                             |   //   \\      _______/
                             |__/|  o  |\____/
                                  \___/


Matt (I love the water) Marks

P.S.  Has anyone ever noticed that when you fly a "Stik" inverted with pontoons
that it almost looks like the Starship Enterprise?  No, I didn't think so. :)


=======================================================================
Matthew D. Marks                  ||"Once you get people laughing
Mechanical Engineering Department || they're listening and you can
The Ohio State University         || tell them almost anything."
e-mail: marks.23@osu.edu          ||               - Herb Gardner
=======================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc