HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: dlb5404@tamsun.tamu.edu (Daryl Biberdorf)
Subject: Re: More Gecko Gifs
Organization: Texas A&M University, College Station
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 20:35:13 GMT

In article <74950@hydra.gatech.EDU> gt6441c@prism.gatech.EDU (Jon Edwards ) writes:
>Is there an ftp site somewhere that these Gecko Gifs can be obtained?
>(We don't get the alt.* groups...)

There is an anonymous ftp site at tamsun.tamu.edu devoted to herp images.
They're in the directory 

Note: the two scans posted by Mr. Voorhees are *excellent*.  (I really
like the leopard gecko gif). They should be in the archive later today.

Daryl


-- 
Daryl Biberdorf  N5GJM    d-biberdorf@tamu.edu or  dlb5404@tamsun.tamu.edu
From: hodgeman@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (William Hodgeman Jr)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Tame?  Igs v/s Snakes
Date: 20 Nov 1992 15:13:19 GMT
Organization: University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
Distribution: usa
Reply-To: hodgeman@csd4.csd.uwm.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: 129.89.7.4
Originator: hodgeman@csd4.csd.uwm.edu


I've heard all this talk about "tame" iguanas, but what about
snakes?  Can you tame them?  How do they respond to people,
compared to igs?

Bill Hodgeman
(hodgeman@csd4.csd.uwm.edu)
From: head5181@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Help needed for building Aquarium
Date: 17 Nov 92 02:21:22 -0600
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

I was wondering if anyone had any information about building an aquarium.
Any reply would be appreciated.

thanks
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: pingleto@ncsa.uiuc.edu (Mike Pingleton)
Subject: Re:  Discover Cover Story
Originator: pingleto@troon.ncsa.uiuc.edu
Organization: Nat'l Ctr for Supercomp App (NCSA) @ University of Illinois
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 15:17:08 GMT

The dragon being top dog in the food chain is old news.  It must be tough
going finding new articles every month.  I found the news about the captive
hatched dragons much more interesting.  It would be great to have some on
display in other zoos...

For more on the top predator subject, see _The Dinosaur Heresies_ by Robert
Bakker.  It has a great sketch (by Bakker) of a huge Komodo chasing a 
naturalist.  Bakker also touches on Australia's extinct giant monitor which
was much larger than the Komodos (sorry, the name escapes me).

Mike (having to settle for a computer monitor) Pingleton
From: phelps1230@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Help! Cricket husbandry questions!!
Date: 18 Nov 92 15:21:08 -0600
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

     I currently have a Green Anole that is eating medium size crickets.  

The problem: Crickets cost a dollar a dozen, but most of them die before Cam
gets to eat them. I wouldn't mind so much if he was a nile monitor, or
something else exotic, but at this rate he has cost me twice as much in food as
he cost in two months. Anyway, to reconcile me to his expensive prey, I would 
appreciate it if someone would tell me how to raise my own crickets. I have
tried several methods...but they don't seem to work. Also, how can I increase
the longetivity of my boughten crickets (space requirements, food, water,
light, etc?) I must buy per dozen since it is a 20 minute trip to the pet
store.  

Anything sent to me will be summarized into a FAQ-style article and posted
here. (Any of the FAQ Gods wish to catch this one and put it with the other
FAQ's? I've seen questions like this pretty often....)

Please save me before I am tempted to get the pretty rat with her food that
will only cost me ~$1 a month!!!!!

Thanks!!
Brooke
phelps1230@iscsvax.uni.edu

Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: desiree@netcom.com (Desiree Champagne)
Subject: Tokay Geckos...
Summary: The kid has a question
Organization: <none>
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1992 23:15:04 GMT

My 10 year old son has recently added a tokay gecko to his
collection.  He hasn't been able to find any resources on how to
tell the sex of the creature.  Any suggestions?

Also, does anybody know a decent reference book for a kid to use?
He wants to learn more, but he's already gone through the books
available at the public library and hasn't been able to find the
answers he's looking for.

Thanks,

Desiree

From: ruska@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Dave Ruska)
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 18:13:49 GMT
Subject: Re: Breeders
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp

In rec.pets.herp, thompssp@feserve.cc.purdue.edu (Steven P. Thompson) writes:

> 
>      I am interested in getting the addresses of herp breeders. Mostly snakes,
> but I am also interested in other herps. I have the "HERP WHOLESALERS/BREEDERS/
> SUPPLIERS" list that was posted a few weeks ago. I have written to many of the
> breeders and am compiling a list of what they offer, prices, etc. If anyone has
> the address of any reputable breeder, or supplier (no matter how big or how 
> small) let me know.

I wrote to ALL of the suppliers on the list about 4 months ago. 
About two-thirds of them responded at best. Some of the addresses (at least
two) are no longer valid.

A good place to get the names and addresses of breeders and wholesalers
is out of the advertisements and classified listings in the Vivarium Magazine,
Reptile & Amphibian Magazine, and Notes from NOAH.

> 
>      One last thing---I am thinking about buying THE REPRODUCTIVE HUSBANDRY
> OF BOAS AND PYTHONS by: Ross. I have heard that this is the BEST book out for
> anyone wanting to get in to breeding snakes. Does anyone have this book that 
> would care to comment? I would like to get a little feedback before this 
> starving student spends $90 on a snake book!!
> 

Yup. It's one of the best books on breeding BOIDS, with a lot of information
on specific species/sub-species. It only covers Boids.

As far as price is concerned, you must have missed my posting a while back:

                                 local       The PET     GLADES     BUSH
BOOK TITLE                       pet shop   BOOK STORE    HERP    HERP SPLY
-----------------------------   ---------   ----------  --------  ----------
Atlas of Snakes                 $129.95      $129.95       -         $75
  T.F.H - 1991

Reptile Atlas                   $129.95      $129.95      $99        $75
  T.F.H - 1988 (830 pgs)

Living Snakes of the World         $75        $55         $49        $40
  Mehrtens   (480 pgs)

A-Z of Snake Keeping                -        $24.95       $25        $18
  Mattison   (143 pgs)
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -- - - - - - - - - - - - -  vvvvvvvvv
Reproductive Husbandry of           -         $85         $75        $70
 Pythons and Boas - 1990
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -- - - - - - - - - - - - -  ^^^^^^^^^

>      Thanks!!
> 
>                                                              ~Steve

Regards,
Dave                                (daver@hpgrrd.gr.hp.com)
From: dhm1@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (DANIEL HILL MCCAULEY)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: EMERGENCY: SNAKE PROBLEM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Date: 23 Nov 92 15:03:04 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

In my first post EMERGENCY!!!!! SNAKE PROBLEM!!!!!!!!, I left a word or two
out which made my problem a little unclear.  I fed my Burmese Python about two
days ago a large rat. (The snake is about 4 foot long, and until recently I
have been feeding it just a little smaller guinea pigs.)  My problem is that
the snake yesterday has become very bloated looking where the rat lump has
increased considerably in size.  I wouild appreciate it if someone could tell
me if this a serious problem or if this is one of those normal snake things.

Thanks a lot@@@!!

-Dan
-- 
*******************************************************************************
*Dan McCauley       (Lair of Sam, Lisa, Spot, Spot II, and Victoria)
*                              ...with carcasses of dead smelly vermin!
*******************************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: mds5597@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Subject: Picture
Reply-To: mds5597@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 03:01:51 GMT

	Now how in the world to you see the picture a few notes back?

				Treky and Tabatha
From: voorhees@sdd.hp.com (Joe Voorhees)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Montage gecko gif available
Date: 18 Nov 1992 20:31:21 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, San Diego Division
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: hpsdlm14.sdd.hp.com
Keywords: gecko, lizard, gif, picture

I've posted another gif to alt.binaries.pictures.misc; this one is
a montage of all 3 of my previous postings...
Uroplatus fimbriatus - Madagascar flat-tail gecko
Phelsuma standingi - banded (while it's a juvenile) gecko
Eublepharis macularius - leopard gecko

Have any free kittens for my 2 metre Tokay?
Joe
voorhees@sdd.hp.com
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: maiolojj@cda.mrs.umn.edu (Joshua J. Maiolo 1406233)
Subject: Rhinocerous Viper Populations....
Organization: University of Minnesota - Morris
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 22:44:32 GMT


	Hello Herpers!

	First, a big thanks to everyone who sent or posted sources for
information on Bitis nasicornis, the Rhinocerous Viper.  I've collected
a fairly decent amount of info, and should be able to finish my 
symposium project easily.  But I have one more question -  In my 
research so far, I haven't been able to find any estimates as to the
status of these beautiful snakes. (ie Threatened, endangered, etc)
Does anyone know, or have info on this?  Or perhaps population densities
in their native habitat?   If you could E-mail any info to me, I'd 
really appreciate it.  If you cant, then post.  [I read this stuff more
often than I like to admit :-) ]  I'd love to be able to give this
symposium talk and end it with an updated species status.  Suggestions
as to where I can find this info is just as valuable as the info 
itself, so let me know.
	
		Thanks again everyone!
					-jOsH



========================================================================
==  Love and Peace and Other Indoor Sports ==  Josh Maiolo   a.k.a.   ==
==                                         == maiolojj@cda.mrs.umn.edu =
==   Officially we begin at birth and      == maiolojj@cab.mrs.umn.edu =
==     and end at death, but its really    == ======================== =
==  a lot more complicated than that.      ==   Crazy?                 =
==               - Ashleigh Brilliant      ==          Who me?         =
========================================================================
From: CKLINE@buc.edu.au (Colin Kline)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Axolotls (mexican Walking Fish)
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 03:38:43 GMT
Organization: Ballarat University College
NNTP-Posting-Host: 141.132.16.13
Summary: Why have my axolotls stopped eating ?
Keywords: Fish, Herp, Pets, Food, Illness


	
	My axolotls have stopped eating (previously ravenous);
	I have been feeding them raw steak;
	any suggestions ?

	Colin KLINE, a fish naive person.
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: dalton@spot.Colorado.EDU (lizard man)
Subject: Taming Iguanas
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 06:20:14 GMT


My iguana, Rupert, is afraid of people. When new people come into the
room or anybody approaches him, he immediately goes on the defensive. 
He puts out his dewlap and gets ready to flee/fight. If you reach for
him, he will whip you with his tail before fleeing. 

Fortunately, he is still pretty young, maybe 6-8 inches long, so it
doesn't hurt.

i can usually catch him pretty easily, as i have been keeping lizards
for 16 years now. Sometimes he bites me, but again, it never hurts; 
though it always surprises him when i don't react!

Once i catch him, though, i only have to stroke his head four or five
times to calm him. He likes to have his neck stroked, and will doze off
in a matter of minutes!! This is kind of strange given his initial
reactions on the approach of a human, but i attribute it to his small
brain size and the fact that once he's caught, he's not immediately
threatened anymore.

So i think he is not beyond the possibility of taming.

But my worry is that, when he gets older, he will be dangerous (that
tail is gonna get LONG) and no fun to be around. So i am wondering if
anybody has any tips on how best to tame him while he is still young.

He does not live in a cage; he has free run of the apartment but
generally stays around the window where i put his food, a hot rock, a
couple lamps (one a Vita-Lite) and some plants (including a Ficus tree
he spends lots of time in.)


Thanks for any help,

--brad dalton
-- 
---
"a woman wants an abortion not as she might want a Porsche or an ice
cream, but rather more as a trapped animal wants to gnaw off its leg."
--Frederica
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: kyle@Csli.Stanford.EDU (Kyle Wohlmut)
Subject: Re: EMERGENCY: SNAKE PROBLEM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Followup-To: rec.pets.herp
Keywords: Once you pull the pin, Mr. Hand Grenade is no longer your friend
Organization: Rocking Pig Enterprises
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 21:08:19 GMT

In article <1992Nov23.150304.29411@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu>
dhm1@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (DANIEL "TWO-SHEDS" MCCAULEY) writes:
>In my first post EMERGENCY!!!!! SNAKE PROBLEM!!!!!!!!, I left a word or two
>out which made my problem a little unclear.  I fed my Burmese Python about two
>days ago a large rat. (The snake is about 4 foot long, and until recently I
>have been feeding it just a little smaller guinea pigs.)  My problem is that
>the snake yesterday has become very bloated looking where the rat lump has
>increased considerably in size.  I wouild appreciate it if someone could tell
>me if this a serious problem or if this is one of those normal snake things.
>

O, well that clears things up a bit... it's hard to decide from your
description whether this is a serious problem or not.  If it's a bulge
in the stomach area just about the size of the dinner-item, and it's
not getting any bigger, then that's normal-- no problem (you might
want to use smaller meals from here on out if the bulge is big enough
to make you go 'whoa!'); if, however, the bulge is notably bigger than
the rat, and is getting bigger (or not decreasing), OR the bulge is
someplace other then the stomach region, you've got serious problems.
In that case your snake probably has a trauma injury somewhere in the
throat or intestine, and is building up gas and/or other
undesireables... get to the best available vet immediately!  That's
all you can do... I know, this kind of thing happened to my Burmese
not too long ago (remember, guys? :-), and with immediate treatment
and extra TLC for a long time she's basically fully recovered today,
but she would have unquestionably died a horrible death if I had
delayed in the slightest!  See a vet you can trust!  Any other
questions, don't hesitate to e-mail me!

                       /	 i am as sad
/'''                   -         as the song
c-OO    Kyle Wohlmut   /         of a soudanese jackal
   \    (actual size)  -         who is wailing for the blood red
  -                    /         moon he cannot reach and rip
                       -                                              
From: ruska@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Dave Ruska)
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 18:35:22 GMT
Subject: Re: Locating cages
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp

In rec.pets.herp, mds5597@ritvax.isc.rit.edu writes:

> In article <1992Nov18.163234.1505@adp.uucp>, mattb@adp.uucp (Matt Berigan 3-9742) writes:
> >I've got a little argument going with my brother-in-law regarding where to
> >locate a cage.  I say that if one uses a basement (commonly cooler and
> >moister) one can achieve greater control (cold to hot) as needed.  Using
> >an upstairs room means there won't be the same range in temperature and
> >when the furnace starts working it will get very dry.  
> 
> 	Thing is...it is easier to have controlled heat in an area that is
> allready for the most part heated. Less expensive too.

And especially if your keeping tropical snakes which need fairly warm temps.

Unless your cage is well insulated with minimal glass, you will have a
hard time keeping the air warm enough. The humidity problem is easier
to deal with. Open water dishes, daily misting, and/or a local room
humidifier will take care of the humidity problem. A room humidifier or
whole house humidifier has the added benefit of making easier for people
to breathe as well.

Save the basement for brumating Colubrids (should you get some).

>                                                
>                                                       Treky and Tabatha
> P.S.
> ----
> Live long and prosper.                   

Dave                                  (daver@hpgrrd.gr.hp.com)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: rotheroe@convex.com (Dave Rotheroe)
Subject: Re: Herp First Aid
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 18:27:37 GMT
Organization: Engineering, CONVEX Computer Corp., Richardson, Tx., USA
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by a user at CONVEX Computer
              Corp. The opinions expressed are those of the user and
              not necessarily those of CONVEX.

>substrate and using paper which can be replaced daily.  Clean the cage
>daily with a good germicide like Nolvasan, Lysol, or diluted chlorine
>bleach.  I strongly prefer Nolvasan.  I understand there is a Betadine

excellent points in the post - one of the best I've seen, BUT do NOT use
lysol.  it is poisoness to most herps.  Nolvasan is great, but hard for
a lot of people to obtain and diluted bleach is still one of the best
and cheapest tools available.

==================================================================8--<
Dave Rotheroe                rotheroe@convex.com              DoD#0045
CONVEX Computer Corporation, Richardson, TX 75083-3851, (214) 497-4512
A day without sunshine is like...   night
From: walkera@cco.caltech.edu (Walker Aumann)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: EMERGENCY!!! SNAKE PROBLEM!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Date: 23 Nov 1992 07:12:22 GMT
Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena
NNTP-Posting-Host: punisher.caltech.edu

dhm1@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (DANIEL HILL MCCAULEY) writes:

>I fed my 4 foot burmese python a large rat two days ago. Today I looked in the
>cage and found to my surprise that the python's had increased in size
>considerably. My concern is that I do not know if this is normal (it never
>happened before) or if this is a serious problem.  Any advice would be greatly
>appreciated!   Thanks a lot!

Mine is in about the same stage of life right now, and is bulging similarly. 
She also did something similar for a while when I was on vacation a couple
of months ago, and has been fine since.  I don't think you have anything to
worry about.
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: kamalm@sco.COM (Kamal A. Mostafa)
Subject: Re: How long do you leave food / water out?
Organization: The Santa Cruz Operation, Inc.
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 17:22:11 GMT


bjz@sei.cmu.edu (Barbara Zayas) writes:
 | 
 | About water:
 | One book that I have states that young/new igs need an
 | acclimation period of 3-4 months where water should be
 | available round the clock (a lot of new igs may be
 | dehydrated)....

I wondered about the dehydration story too, because our first iguana
practically never drinks water from his bowl (he's about 1 yr old).

Last weekend though, we got two more iguanas, both babies about 3-4 inches
snout-to-vent, and as soon as we offered them water they each drank quite
a bit.  Maybe two tablespoons for each iguana on the first day.  After
that first day though, they've showed little interest in water.  I don't
know why, but it does seem like "brand new" iguanas are often dehydrated
from their experience at the petstore/breeder, but once they're back up
on their feet, they probably won't need all that much fresh water.

Also, all three of our iguanas absolutely love tofu...  if your iguana is
into it, it's a great protein source, and is a bit fatty, so it should help
put some meat on their baby-bones.

-k
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: harrison@force.ssd.lmsc.lockheed.com
Subject: Re: Chemical handwarmers
Reply-To: harrison@force.ssd.lmsc.lockheed.com
Organization: LMSC, Sunnyvale, California
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 92 19:02:58 GMT

>  I've wondered about the chemical hand-warmers too...  Is there any chance
>  that a herp could bite (or claw) thru the plastic container-baggie and
>  get to the chemicals?  I suspect that the stuff is pretty toxic.

I use the chemical warmers that have a clear filling with a penny sized 
piece of metal that you click to cause the filling to crystalize. They
use food grade sodium acetate (or so it says on the package) so I'd
say they're pretty harmless.
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: thompssp@feserve.cc.purdue.edu (Steven P. Thompson)
Subject: Breeders
Organization: Purdue University
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 17:13:31 GMT


     I am interested in getting the addresses of herp breeders. Mostly snakes,
but I am also interested in other herps. I have the "HERP WHOLESALERS/BREEDERS/
SUPPLIERS" list that was posted a few weeks ago. I have written to many of the
breeders and am compiling a list of what they offer, prices, etc. If anyone has
the address of any reputable breeder, or supplier (no matter how big or how 
small) let me know.
     Also, if anyone wants me to look up prices on any herps or supplies from
the results I have so far, I would be happy to do so.
     My basic thinking here is that if we can "team-up" and buy the highest
quality for the best price, maybe we can influence the market and bring prices
down a bit. (I also just love doing anything with herps, too!!)
  


     One last thing---I am thinking about buying THE REPRODUCTIVE HUSBANDRY
OF BOAS AND PYTHONS by: Ross. I have heard that this is the BEST book out for
anyone wanting to get in to breeding snakes. Does anyone have this book that 
would care to comment? I would like to get a little feedback before this 
starving student spends $90 on a snake book!!

     Thanks!!

                                                             ~Steve
From: csvoboda@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (ShortTimer)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: How long do you leave food / water out?
Date: 16 Nov 92 19:41:42 GMT
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin, Austin TX

Say what!?!  "Iguanas won't mess in their food/water dishes."  Ha.
Mine do, on an all too regular basis.

Anyway, on the original subject:

My igs do eat dog food, though not anywhere near a major part of their diets.
The younger ig (1.5 y.o.) likes it best.  The old lady (11 y.o.) likes greens,
fruits, and veggies best.  Tofu -- I'll have to try that.

As for water:  I keep fresh, clean water available to the igs all the time.  
Of course, I have to watch it or it won't remain clean (see above).  I've seen\
my lizards stick their heads down in the water and take HUMONGOUS drinks, so I
don't see how they could get enough moisture from just their food.

-- 
******************************* (__  __)     *
*    Cathy  S-T  at           *   (oo)______/
*         Longhorn U          *    \/ (_____@   a
*******************************       /     \     & 
                                     /      /      m
From: bzandrew@amiganet.chi.il.us (Bill Zandrew)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: iguanna digging
Date: 15 Nov 92 17:30:10 GMT
Organization: Amiga Network Information Systems

In article <9211092009.AA02462@cypress.cis.ohio-state.edu>,
rosen@news.cis.ohio-state.edu (jeffrey m rosen) writes:
>My pet green iguana likes to dig up all the sand in the corners of his
>tank.  Does anybody have any ideas why he might be doing this? is it normal?
>
>Jeff Rosen (Rosen@CIS@ohio-state.edu)
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Actually, sand is a pretty horrible thing to have in an Iguana cage. 
Supposedly the Silica stuff can get in his lungs.
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp