HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: hostetlr@bucknell.edu (Jim Hostetler)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Query-White Mountains Conditions
Followup-To: rec.backcountry
Date: 21 Jan 1993 13:39:56 GMT
Organization: Bucknell University
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: macl52.bucknell.edu

Has anyone been in Huntington or Tuckerman Ravines since the snowfall? I'd
like to hear about the condtions in the White Mountains of New Hampshire.

Thanks in advance.

Jim Hostetler 
HOSTETLR@bucknell.edu
Lewisburg, Pennsylvania USA
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: eugene@wilbur.nas.nasa.gov (Eugene N. Miya)
Subject: Re: Climbing in Hawaii
Organization: NAS, NASA Ames Research Center, Moffett Field, CA
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 93 19:46:43 GMT

Mostly steep loose pumice.  A few areas of fragile young basalts.
You might fake some bouldering in certain coves.  Beware of
private lands like the Parker Ranch.
Mostly hiking in a few areas.  Contact Hawaii Volcanos National Park via phone.

--eugene miya, NASA Ames Research Center, eugene@orville.nas.nasa.gov
  Resident Cynic, Rock of Ages Home for Retired Hackers
  {uunet,mailrus,other gateways}!ames!eugene
Second Favorite email message: Returned mail: Cannot send message for 3 days
A Ref: Mathematics and Plausible Reasoning, vol. 1, G. Polya
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: sean@Wolf.Ocean.Dal.Ca (Sean Willett)
Subject: Re: high end climbing shoes
Organization: Dalhousie University
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 20:31:22 GMT

In article <1993Jan27.170728.8919@galileo.cc.rochester.edu> mcrk@troi.cc.rochester.edu (Matt McCormick) writes:

>I have been thinking about a new pair of climbing shoes.....  So I am thinking
>that the 5.10 UFOs are a good choice. 

If you are going to climb roofs that involve a lot of heel hooking, watch
out for UFOs and other non-laced slippers;  they can 'slip' right off!
Laced slippers like the Lasers (Boreal) don't suffer from this problem. They
also won't roll off small edges as easily.
From: mcrk@troi.cc.rochester.edu (Matt McCormick)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Crampons for sale
Date: 26 Jan 93 16:34:22 GMT
Organization: University of Rochester (Rochester, NY)


	I have got a pair of Lowe Foot Fangs that I would like to sell.
They have seen very little use.  I took them on one trip and did nothing 
serious or technical with them.  Since then I have decided that I am a
full-blown sport climber and I don't expect to need them again.  I paid 
$120 or so for them.  I even have the box, the wrench, and extra bolts 
for them.  I would settle for $75.  Or possibly some sort of trade for 
equipment, a rope perhaps (not used).
From: davin@hardy.u.washington.edu (David Veale)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: Need suggestions on purchasing head-lamps
Date: 27 Jan 1993 22:01:14 GMT
Organization: University of Washington
NNTP-Posting-Host: hardy.u.washington.edu

fuhrmann@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Robert Fuhrmann) writes:


>sounds like you're referring to a Petzl. my friend loves his and
>i'm ready to buy one myself. beware--it's not cheap.

>robert (fuhr@hpocbw1.sj.hp.com)
I'll second the notion.  I just bought a zoom and love it.
From: tomg@mishima.mn.org (Thomas Greenwalt)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: Climbing in Kansas !
Date: 28 Jan 93 00:51:42 GMT
Organization: Alternate Realities
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL7]

47.366::opland@fishery.honeywell.com wrote:
> Subject: Climbing in Kansas
> Rob_Prior@mindlink.bc.ca (Rob Prior) writes :
>
> I know, I know... Kansas isn't the most mountainous part of the U.S., but I
> didn't pick the destination...
>
> I was wondering if there is anything in Witchita Kansas that is taller than a
> cornstalk that's worth climbing... I'll be there in May for about 2 weeks and
> will probably have some time on my hands...
: 
The high point in Kansas (literally and figuratively) is Mount Sunflower
at 4039 feet.  At the summit is a planted dead tree with a cow skull at
the top and a monument that reads, "On This Site in 1897 Nothing Happened".
Also there is a sunflower made of metal.  I think that says everything 
about Kansas that could be said.  :-).

As an aside I was born and raised in South Dakota and miss it terribly.  I
happen to love the plains, theres just nothing to climb.

-- 
Thomas S. Greenwalt (Tom-Too)                                 (612)866-1344
7300 Nicollet Ave. S, Mpls, MN 55423                    tomg@mishima.mn.org 
---- Just because somethings a metaphor doesn't mean it can't be real. ----
From: qureshi@lclark.edu (Zahid Qureshi)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Oregon rock
Date: 25 Jan 93 06:46:20 GMT
Article-I.D.: lclark.1993Jan25.064620.6078
Organization: Lewis & Clark College, Portland OR

I am a transplanted Boulder climber seeking info on a climbing area 
somewhere on highway 20 in the Menagerie Wilderness.  I believe it is somewhere 
around the Sweet Home/Cascadia region.  Please correspond with access, route,
or any other info that will help me find the crags and have fun.

Phish phanatics in phortland
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: ledererc@pdxsq1.nerco.com (Corey Lederer (6471) )
Subject: Getting over the edge safely
Organization: Nerco, Inc.
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 18:49:19 GMT

Tony Purmal apurmal@us.oracle.com writes

     I've been climbing since June of '92 and consider myself very
     much a beginner.  On several occasions I've decided to walk down to
     the base of a climb I'm top roping because I just don't feel
     comfortable starting out the rappel from my top rope anchor.  This
     usually happens when the anchors are bolted just below the top of a
     cliff and I'm not sure how to get below the anchor to start the
     rappel.

	  I've had several ideas, but I'd like to know what the correct
	  or best way


I'm pushing 5.12B/C and this works for me:

1.	Take Deep Breath.
2.	Check Harness / Knot
3.	Look Down
4.	Throw Chicken Bones Over Left Shoulder
5.	Jump


Seriously,  First, trust the anchor, you do when you top rope. Sit down, take 
up slack in rope so belay device is CLOSE to anchor (so ya don't yank on 
bolt/rope), scoot your but so you're below anchor, weight rope, stand up.

NEVER NEVER NEVER jump as you rap. It'll do damage to your rope and isn't
too cool on bolts/chains.  Rap down SMOOTHLY!!!!!!  Always double back
your harness straps!!

			Or just lead it.



-- 

Corey J. Lederer (Cor Man)		ledererc@pdxsq1.nerco.com
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: Climbing walls in Pittsburgh?
From: jim bowers <FQV@psuvm.psu.edu>
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 22:13:51 EST
Organization: Penn State University

In article <1993Jan27.171041.22210@cs.nott.ac.uk>, rfw@tawny.cs.nott.ac.uk
(Rupert F Weare) says:
>
>        I have a friend who plans to visit Pittsburgh for a month sometime
>around March who
>was wondering if there are any good climbing walls there. Any ideas?
>
>        Thanks in advance,
>                        Rupert.

  The Climbing Wall INC.  4123 Penn Ave.   412-247-7334

   Over 3000 square feet, many high overhanging walls, and lots of really
cool Petrogrips including about 50 of my super cool real limestone
pockets.  At last Pittsburgh has a real gym and it's a good one.

                                      Jim Bowers


>
>        reply to: rfw@cs.nottingham.ac.uk
>
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: eugene@wilbur.nas.nasa.gov (Eugene N. Miya)
Subject: Re: Is Climbing An Individual Sport?
Organization: NAS, NASA Ames Research Center, Moffett Field, CA
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 93 22:38:09 GMT

In article <1993Jan25.133402.3384@aber.ac.uk> azw@aber.ac.uk
(Andrew Michael Woodward) writes:
>NO

I believe the question is not answered as phrased with a Y or N answer.
Is it supposed to be be as opposed to a "team sport" or group sport?
Is Climbing An ~Individual Sport?

>Maybe I missed the point of this, coming in on it halfway, but I have always
>found climbers see themselves as individualists. They are, in fact, no more
>so than any other group, bank clerks included. This observation is not
>grade specific - in fact often the hardest climbers, having the most ego
>invested, can least afford individuality..

Is your observation based on belaying?  Only?

The subject question as phased is perhaps a little too simplistic.
I think climbing has individual and small group aspects.  Perhaps we need
I and G coefficients ranging [0..1] where highly individual activities
have I>G and team sports might have G>I.  That way you can account for a
free soloist doing "Edging Skills..." in Tuolumne Meadows.  Cause I don't
see the team aspect of soloing.  This does not mean to imply the soloist
is a 100% individual: ethics and style can come in, those involve
restraint.  On second thought, you can think about the I and G, I'd
rather go climbing (or skiing).

Watching the GBytes flow....

--eugene miya, NASA Ames Research Center, eugene@orville.nas.nasa.gov
  Associate Editor, Software and Publication Reviews
  Scientific Programming
  {uunet,mailrus,other gateways}!ames!eugene
Seeking Books to buy:	Bongard, Pattern Recognition
			3 down 1 to go.
From: 47.366::opland@fishery.honeywell.com
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Climbing in Kansas !
Date: 25 Jan 1993 13:32:25 -0600
Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu

> Subject: Climbing in Kansas
> Rob_Prior@mindlink.bc.ca (Rob Prior) writes :
>
> I know, I know... Kansas isn't the most mountainous part of the U.S., but I
> didn't pick the destination...
>
> I was wondering if there is anything in Witchita Kansas that is taller than a
> cornstalk that's worth climbing... I'll be there in May for about 2 weeks and
> will probably have some time on my hands...

Welcome to hell ! I lived withing spitting distance of Wichita for most of
about 20 years (3 years past graduating college). I finally escaped. You can
expect high winds almost every day of the year and nothing to disturb the natural
beauty of a state that exists in only one dimension (flat).

As for climbing, I've heard that there is some pretty decent stuff located in
the Wichita Mountains of Oklahoma (Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge). This is located
SW of Oklahoma City. I think about 4 hour drive from Wichita).

Look for a guidebook called "ON THE ROCKS II" written by (I believe) Duane Raleigh (of Climbing
Magazine's Equipment department). You might be able to find a copy of this at either
the Mountain High store in Wichita (around Douglas and Rock Road) or at the climbing
store in Oklahoma City (don't know the name or the location). I've never climbed
there but I hear it isn't too bad.

There's a climbing gym in Ok City and an actual climbing store but I don't know the names.
There's also a store called Backwoods in Ok City that you might be able to get some
additional information from : Ph # 918-751-7376

The local newsletter is put together by a guy in Tulsa named Jeff Beene. The
newsletter has a phone number (918-250-1397). You might be able to find some
additional info through that channel.

As for climbing in Wichita, peruse your back issues of Climbing Magazine. About
two years ago, there was a picture of the Heiferstoisser Traverse...actually about
a guy who put up a climbing wall inside of a silo on his farm. That's about the
limit of the Kansas climbing.

Good luck.

G.
From: OPDBS@VM.CC.LATECH.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Military climbing
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 93 21:03:46 CST
Organization: Louisiana Tech University
NNTP-Posting-Host: vm.cc.latech.edu

 
 
Eugene
 
Having just now learned of the existance of this list and discovering to
my horror the mention of 'military mountaineering' I feel obliged to comment.
 
I am currently considering initiation of international legislation that would
effectively outlaw military mountaineering, as well as using the two words in
the same sentence. And all you cynics out there thought 'military intell-
gence' to be a contradiction of terms..........
 
As for you Eugene, since there are no other whipping boys available at this
point, I'll afix blame on your head for all the piss poor ropes, boots,
crampons, and most other climbing and cold weather gear. I won't dignify skis
with a comment.Gad. I must give you points for bravery, however. Anyone who
would consult for the military and then admit it in a quasi-public forum such
as this should get some sort of acknowledgement. Or something.Additionally,
you *did* include the word 'mistake' in parathesis after 'Alaska'. How true.
 
I must admit that I found one positive thing during my military slavery and
ensueing forays into the classic alpine communities: I hated it so badly
that I sought out experiences representative of how *real* mountaineering
was accomplished and subsequently met Ray Genet before his untimely death.
 
Doug Strain
172nd Light Infantry Brigade
Ft. Richardson, Alaska 77-81
 
 
 
Xref: sparky rec.climbing:5387 rec.backcountry:10506
From: tucker@shiva.edsg.hac.com (George Tucker)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing,rec.backcountry
Subject: Re: What is sport? (was: A-word)
Date: 25 Jan 93 20:23:37 GMT
Reply-To: tucker@shiva.UUCP (George Tucker)
Organization: Hughes Aircraft Co., El Segundo, CA

In article <1993Jan22.032623.28891@nas.nasa.gov> eugene@wilbur.nas.nasa.gov (Eugene N. Miya) writes:
>>>Hemmingway defined sport as an activity that could kill you.  Wayne
>>>Trzyna defines sport as an activity that is very physical.  How do
>
>In article <24764@hacgate.SCG.HAC.COM> tucker@shiva.UUCP (George Tucker)
>writes:
>>How about war?
>Long interesting simile comparing sport and war.
>
>Hi George,
>You know, you pick up a hammer, and everything, all of a sudden starts to
>look like a nail.
To me everything looks like a thumb.

>  It's something I've noticed about the defense
>contractors starting to appear on the net (nothing personal, but
>interesting, their political conservatism, that is).
I doubt if my suggestion  had anything to do with my work.  My next choice
for a sport would be getting old.  It puts so much strain on the heart that
the heart failure rate exceeds those other sports, and it is 
extremely dangerous since most of the participants eventually die from
it.
 
>Another person asked me about military mountaineering.  My nose is no
>cleaner than George's, whereas I might be more liberal, I have on occasion

If you support legalization of all drugs, you have a fighting chance.
Perhaps we should fire liberal credentials at 20 paces until one of us
runs out of ammo.  BTW, deuling is dangerous and increases the heart rate.

	 George Tucker        tucker@shiva.hac.com
	Signature line awaiting FDA approval.

From: Curtis.Hoffmann@f62.n282.z1.tdkt.kksys.com (Curtis Hoffmann)
Sender: FredGate@tdkt.kksys.com
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Climbing partners
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 00:00:14 -0600

   I might as well present myself here, while I'm at this...

   I'm a new climber, in that I made my 8th rock climb on an indoor wall
just a few days ago.  However, I started with indoor climbing classes
about 7 years ago.  There's not a lot to climb in Minnesota, if you
don't have a partner, but two new indoor places have opened up in the
area, and I decided to knock the dust off my shows and try getting back
in shape.  I actually did get in one climb on live rock, in Japan, about
1.5 hours out from Tokyo (this was about 5 months ago, on a rock rated
somewhere in the 4's.)  Spent about 6 hours, out having fun that day.
   In terms of ability and experience, I can belay, but I'm as weak as a
kitten, and can't climb worth a damn.

   I've been reading the messages in here, and haven't seen anything
from anyone in my area.  If there is someone in Minnesota, I'd like to
know.

___
 X OLX 2.1 TD X [Slap]  "You are already dead."  "A-Ayukawa." [Splurt]

Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: brendan@buck.ac.uk (Brendan Murphy)
Subject: British GIV Expedition: Request for support: Repost
Organization: University of Buckingham
Distribution: uk
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 93 20:45:23 GMT

This is a revised version of an article I posted to this group a couple of
weeks ago.  The main change is that we have dropped the charge for a lecture
from #100 to "any reasonable sum you can afford" because it appears that the
cost has been putting off a number of smaller clubs.  Our target figure is
still #100 per lecture but every contribution will be welcome.

British Gasherbrum IV Expedition 1993: request for support
==========================================================

I am part of a British expedition that will be attempting to climb the South
Ridge of Gasherbrum IV this summer.  Team members are Andy MacNae (leader), 
Andy Cave, Andy Perkins, Chris Flewitt, Paul Jenkinson and myself.  Although 
this will be a lightweight trip dedicated to alpine-style climbing, portering 
costs will be relatively high owing to the remoteness of the mountain (it's 
about as far as is possible up the Baltoro past Concordia and K2).

In order to help fund the trip, we are offering slide shows to UK climbing 
clubs at extremely competitive rates.  We can offer slide shows on any (or a 
mixture) of the following subjects:

o Rock climbing in the UK/France/Spain/Jordan/Yosemite
o Alps (Eiger, Divine Providence. Brandler Hasse, Fisch)
o Patagonia (new route on the Sheild)
o Nepal (eg Pumori, Ama Dablam, Island Peak)
o Pakistan (Ogre, Latok I, Biafo spires, Hushe)
o India (17 days on Cerro Kishtwar, Chomochoir, Meru)
o Big Wall climbing in Yosemite (Nose, Salathe, Lurking Fear)
o New Zealand
o Baffin Island
o Africa

We can also provide information on more general subjects such as organising
your first trip to the Himalaya, what sort of gear to take, what sort of food
to bring, etc.

I would be very grateful if you would pass on this request to the chairperson
of your local club; we would appreciate the support of your club and we hope
that the quality and subject matter of our slides represent good value for 
money.  The trip is endorsed by the BMC.  We have applied for grants from the
Mount Everest Foundation, the Nick Escourt Award, and other outdoor funds.
Please contact me for further information at the address below, or telephone
0280 816283 (answerphone).

Thanks in anticipation.

Brendan
-- 
********************************************************************************
Brendan Murphy						brendan@buck.ac.uk
Department of Computer Science				Tel: 44 (0)280 814080
University of Buckingham, Buckingham, MK18 1EG, UK	Fax: 44 (0)280 822245
********************************************************************************
From: d90-nsc@nada.kth.se (Niclas Schopenhauer)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: Welcome to Russia,Elbrus from the North, wild nature
Date: 22 Jan 93 16:40:59 GMT
Organization: Royal Institute of Technology, Stockholm, Sweden

In article <199301211657.AA23531@newcom.kiae.su>, Abramenko Mike <mike@skfgvc.pyatigorsk.su> writes:
|>                        Welcome to Russia!
|>    Why not  try Mt Elbrus right away?  If you want to see at your
|> feet the Caucasus, the 1100 km long mountain system, this is what
|> you  need.  The "Elbrus-from-the-North" Firm offers you an ascent
|> of the highest mountain in Europe. You'll follow the route of the

   < text deleted >

|>    The groups are provided with porters,  interpretes and medical
|> aids. This route to Mt Elbrus from the North is safest. 
|> The firm guarantees the ascent of Mt Elbrus.
   ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

  
   IMHO, this is the kind of guarantee that makes an ascent
cease to be climbing and become guided sight-seeing.

   Relevant quote:

   "It's not the deed that confounds us, but the attempt."
					Macbeth, William Shakespeare
			


   Sorry for any spelling or quoting mistakes.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                     Niclas Schopenhauer    
				      d90-nsc@nada.kth.se
                                     School of Computer Science and Engineering
                                     Royal Institute of Technology
                                     Stockholm, Sweden
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: niklasg@csd.uu.se (Niklas Gunnarsson)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Climbing in Hawaii	
Date: 26 Jan 1993 11:55:15 GMT
Organization: Computing Science Department
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: pyton.csd.uu.se


Keywords: 

Is there anybody out there that knows anything about climbing
in The Big Island of Hawaii , or where I could get information
on this matter ?

Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: mikew@cutthroat.cs.washington.edu (Mike Williamson)
Subject: Re: Gripmaster Finger Exerciser
Organization: University of Washington, Computer Science & Eng.
Date: 21 Jan 93 09:33:57

In article <2783@eagle.ukc.ac.uk> amlf@ukc.ac.uk (A.M.L.Fowler) writes:

   I've seen an advert in an American magazine for a finger exerciser
   called a "GRIPMASTER".  It's a squeezy thing you hold in your hand
   but it has separate springs for each finger.  

   I think it's made by the "IMC Products Corps", who are based in
   New York, but I want to know how to get one in the UK.

You might check some local music stores.  I've seen the same device
with a different label ("FRETMASTER") marketed to guitarists.

-Mike
From: elmar@ocf.berkeley.edu (Elmar Stefke)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: MORE ANOTHER CLIMBING CLUB
Date: 27 Jan 1993 18:21:01 GMT
Organization: U.C. Berkeley Open Computing Facility
Distribution: na
NNTP-Posting-Host: earthquake.berkeley.edu

It seems that I stepped on alot of toes with my recent article about another
climbing club?  I'd like to apologize for my lack of knowledge of  Access 
Fund policy, which shifts responsibility to local clubs.  However, I still
contend that in the future, access and other decisions regarding public land
use (not limited to climbers) may be made at the federal level (vs. by local
federal or state officials, as is the current system).  At this point it
would be nice to have one unified climbing association, be it the AAC or
Access Fund or some other organization.  I'm thinking along the lines of
the German or Austrian Alpine Club or, in the US, the Sierra Club Organization.
These clubs are organized into local, regional, and national factions under
one umbrella organization.  They let locals deal with local issues, but are
ready to tackle problems on a larger scale if the need and desire arises.
It seems to me that climbers lack such an organization, partly because of
splits in the climbing community (Robbins vs. sportclimbers etc.), but largely
because of policies and actions which encourage small, splintered local groups.
I salute these individual groups for their efforts (clean-ups, local 
negotiations, etc.), but urge them to unify.
Elmar Stefke

Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: allen%asylum.cs.utah.edu@cs.utah.edu (Allen Sanderson)
Subject: Re: Chest Harness
Date: 27 Jan 93 12:14:21 MST
Organization: University of Utah Computer Science

bclegg@actrix.gen.nz (Bob Clegg) writes:
>Took a fall the other day, when the rope took up my bottom half
>stopped but my top half kept going sideways, result: A crushed,
>compressed? rib. Wouldn't have happened if I had been wearing a
>chest harness. 
>When I get back into action I am thinking of wearing one as i can't
>think of any other way i could have prevented it.

The UIAA recommends that you always wear a chest harness in conjunction
with a seat harness.  Most people do not.  I usually wear a chest
harness when doing walls or for glacier travel with a pack on.  I have
never figured out a comfortable way to wear a chest harness and as
such I don't particularly like wearing them when climbing. It isn't so
bad when your following but when leading the rope drag around my
shoulders is a bit of a strain.

Cheers,

Allen R. Sanderson

Salt Lake City, Oootah


"Great spirits have always encounter violent opposition from
mediocre minds."
	- Albert Einstein