From: arf@ddsw1.MCS.COM (Jack Schmidling)
Subject: KETTLE MASHING
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 15:08:42 GMT
Organization: ddsw1.MCS.COM Contributor, Chicago, IL


This article was rejected by Zymurgy's editorial department for some
obscure reason, so I will post it here.

 
                           KETTLE MASHING
 
                          By Jack Schmidling
 
 Mashing and sparging in plastic buckets of one form or 
 another has become so universal that the method I am going 
 to discuss might seem like something new.  However, it is 
 more or less the way beer had been made since time 
 immemorial.  Until that is, a certain very popular book on 
 home brewing appeared.
 
 Kettle mashing, as I call it, has some advantages and some 
 disadvantages over the now "traditional" plastic bucket 
 method and until one understands both approaches, a 
 commitment to one or the other can lead to a good deal of 
 unnecessary frustration.
 
 Kettle mashing is simply using a kettle with an appropriate 
 secreening device and spigot to "cook" the mash in and once 
 the mashing is complete, the same kettle becomes the lauter 
 tun.  After sparging in the lauter tun, the kettle is used 
 for boiling and if it has a close fitting cover, can be used 
 as the primary fermenter.
 
 The most fundamental advantage of the approach is the ease 
 with which the transition from extract to all grain can be 
 made.   The only new requirement is a straining device in 
 the kettle already used for boiling extract beer.  The 
 investment required to "give it a try", is quite minimal and 
 if you decide you don't like the program, you end up with a  
 great brew kettle that sports a spigot that won't get 
 clogged up with hops and specialty grains.
 
 The other advantages are a bit more technical and I will 
 point them out when we get to them.
 
 The key to the system is the screening device and the spigot 
 for the kettle.  The first one I made was to be used in 
 conjunction with an overlaying false bottom.  The false 
 bottom was a stainless steel plate the size of the kettle 
 bottom with a zillion holes laboriously punched into it.  It 
 created no end of problems on the very first batch.  Mash 
 got under it and scorching was just about impossible to 
 control.  So in disgust, I pulled it out, continued the mash 
 and assumed a disaster was at hand.
 
 Much to my incredulous delight, when I opened the spigot, 
 the wort ran clear after less than a cup of turbid runnoff.  
 I have since made about 30 batches using only the screen 
 device and get very consistent and respectable extract 
 yields.
 
 We will begin the discussion, by describing the screening 
 device and spigot that is installed in the brew kettle.  The 
 first one I made was made from galvanized pipe fittings and 
 window screen, installed in a 32 qt enameled canning kettle.
 
 The current version is all brass, copper and stainless 
 installed on two stainless kettles, a ten gallon for mashing 
 and fermenting and a sixteen gallon for boiling.  Having two 
 kettles allows one to be prepared for the next operation 
 while the other is doing its thing. 
 
 Fig. 1 shows an exploded view of the spigot and strainer.  
 The strainer is simply a 2 x 6 inch piece of screen, rolled 
 into a six inch tube and clamped to the copper tube.  The 
 last half inch is bent over itself to seal it off.    The 
 copper tube has a slight bend in it to allow it to be 
 rotated so that the end is right on the bottom leaving 
 almost no wort behind.  It is easily removed for cleaning.
 
 The spigot passes through a clearance hole drilled in the 
 kettle and is retained by the female connector and a washer 
 to take up the treads and make a tight fit.
 
 All the parts are available at a good hardware store.  For 
 those not inclined to hunt down the parts, a complete kit is 
 available from the author.
 
 Once the spigot/strainer device is installed in the brew 
 kettle, you are ready for the plunge.  If you are shopping 
 for a kettle, my only advice is the bigger the better.  I 
 consider the 32 qt canner about the minimum for a 5 gal 
 batch.
 
                   Continued...............
 
                 KETTLE MASHING,   Part 2
 
 The following procedure is intended only as a starting point 
 that I know works well enough to assure a successful, first, 
 all-grain experience.  I do not want to get into endless 
 discussions about the pros and cons of the procedure at this 
 time nor do I even claim that I brew beer this way.  There 
 are an infinite number of variations that could be fodder 
 for future articles but the object of this one is to 
 introduce the approach and brew a simple batch of all grain 
 beer.
 
                      MASHING
 
 The first step is to dump 8 lbs of crushed pale malt into 
 the kettle.  Don't forget the screen!  Add 3 gallons of warm 
 tap water and mix thoroughly.
 
 Apply heat and raise temp to 155F.  Stir frequently to avoid 
 caramelizing and to distribute the heat.  Hold this temp for 
 30 minutes by adding heat and stirring as necessary.
 
 After 30 mins at 155F, crank up the heat and continue 
 stirring until 178F is reached.  This step is known as 
 "mashout" and is difficult or impossible to do with the 
 plastic bucket approach.  It is my opinion that it 
 eliminates one source of a common problem with first all 
 grain batches known as a "set mash.
 
 Hold this temp for 10 minsutes, then turn off the heat and 
 let it rest while heating water to a boil on another burner.  
 Use a pan that holds at least two quarts of water.
 
                     SPARGING
 
 The level of wort in the kettle should be about an inch 
 above the grain when it settles.   Lay a small bowl on top 
 of the grain to distribute the sparging water and minimize 
 the disturbance of the grain.
 
 Open the spigot just a trickle and run the wort into a cup 
 until it runs clear.  Pour the turbid runoff back into the 
 kettle.   With this setup, it will run clear after a few 
 ounces.  Again, as comparison, it sometimes takes gallons 
 with the other system and this must be recycled back into 
 the mash till it does run clear.
 
 The object of sparging is to extract as much sugar from the 
 grain as possible.  The longer it takes, the more efficient 
 the extraction.  Adjust the outflow so that it takes at lest 
 10 mins to fill a gallon jug.  Pour the boiling water into 
 the bowl as available or necessary to keep about an inch of 
 water over the grain.  The availability of boiling water 
 will probably be the limiting factor on sparge rate.
 
 Most brewers will tell you that the sparge water should not 
 exceed 170F but if you use boiling water in this system, the 
 average temp will be far below 170F and you will be lucky to 
 keep it above 150F.  You can fiddle on your next batch.  
 Trust my on the first.
 
 The first runoff should be about 1.080 and you quit when it 
 gets below 1.010.  The total blend will produce 6 to 7 
 gallons at about 1.035 which, after boiling will yield 5 to 
 6 gals at 1.040.  Collect the wort in gallon jugs or five 
 gallon plastic buckets (can't get away from them). 
 
 
               Continued............
          
              KETTLE MASHING,    Part 3
 
 
                 BOILING THE WORT
 
 When the wort is collected, dump the spent grain on the 
 compost pile and rinse out the kettle.  I always save a few 
 pounds in freezer containers for beer bread.  The seven 
 gallons of wort will barely fit into the kettle for the boil 
 so it is best to bring a smaller portion to a boil initially 
 to avoid boilover.  After evaporating some and getting the 
 boil under contro, the rest can be added.  A minimal one 
 hour boil will evaporate about a gallon so you can play with 
 the volumes in various ways.  You can increase the gravity 
 by more boiling or boil less and have more beer.
 
 Add half of your hops as soon as boiling begins.  Save one 
 forth for the end and the remainder at regular intervals 
 during the boil.   If you need a suggestion, try 1.5 oz of 
 Chinook for your first batch.
 
                  CHILLING AND FERMENTING
 
 After the boil, the wort is cooled, either overnight or with 
 a wort chiller if you have one.  I draw it off, after 
 chilling, a gallon at a time so that I can shake it 
 vigorously and "glug" it into the primary to oxygenate it 
 prior to pitching yeast.
 
 If you hold the chilled wort in a carboy or gallon jugs, you 
 can clean out the kettle and use it again as the primary 
 fermenter if the lid fits well.  Just boil a cup of water in 
 it with the lid on for about 5 minutes to sterilize it.
 
 The kettle seems to be universally available for about $35 
 and the rest of the stuff can be had for under $20, making 
 it a pretty inexpensive system.
 
 So, that's what kettle mashing is all about.  Try it, you 
 may like it.
 
 js
 
                   Addenda.............
 
 Here is the list of parts required:
 
 1. Brass "air cock", 1/8" male pipe thread at one end, bibb 
 spout at the other and lever on top.
 
 2. Brass "female connector", 1/8" female pipe thread at one 
 end, 3/8" copper tubing compression fitting at other end.
 
 3. 6" length of 3/8" copper tubing flared at one end and 
 bent so the end rests on bottom.
 
 4. 4 X 6 inch screen (window, brass, copper or ss)  rolled 
 into tube and clamped to flared end of copper tube.  (flare 
 prevents it from falling off at inconvenient times)
 
 All it takes is a 3/8" hole in your kettle, near the bottom.  
 If you run a 1/8" pipe tap into the hole, you can screw on 
 the air cock and it will not leak.  However, as most kettles 
 are too thin to provide enough threads for a safe and 
 permanent fit, I modify the fittings by rethreading the 
 aircock and connector with STRAIGHT pipe threads.  This 
 allows the connector to be screwed on to the aircock in such 
 a way that you achieve a snug fit by compression instead of 
 relying on the tapered pipe threads.
 
 Aside from the brass screen, you can find this stuff at a 
 good hardware store.  I used window screen for months and 
 see nothing wrong with it.
 
 js