HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: rakoczynskij@gtephx.UUCP (Jurek Rakoczynski)
Subject: hoses & silicone grease
Organization: AG Communication Systems, Phoenix, Arizona
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 21:16:54 GMT

I'd like to know if anyone else has experience with using silicone
grease or spray on radiator and heater hose. You use it on the inside
on the part of the hose that is in contact with a flange/neck so that
it comes off easier years later.

I read about this tip over 10 years ago and have always been doing it
since then.  However, ~50% of the time, I have to retighten more than
once after 1-2 days to stop a small leak between the hose and flange. 
I don't seem to remember having to retighten the screw clamps more
than once that often.  But than, I don't over tighten things now a
days like I use to.  On smooth surfaces, such as radiators or heater
cores, silicone spray is fine, but on rough castings like a Chevy
water pump or thermostat housing, silicone grease seems to do a better
job in helping remove the hose years later.  You don't need much, just
a very light coating, and I have never had to take a razor to cut a
hose off, except one heater hose that had hardened.   It broke loose
fairly easily from the heater core nipple and I could rotate it, but
it was so hard, it wouldn't flex enough to let it slide over the lip,
and I didn't want to take a chance damaging the heat core.

Anyone else have any experience?
-- 
Jurek Rakoczynski, AG Communication Systems, POB 52179, Phoenix, AZ. 85072
UUCP: ...!{ncar!noao!enuucp | att}!gtephx!rakoczynskij  Voice: +1 602 581 4867
Inet: gtephx!rakoczynskij@enuucp.eas.asu.edu              Fax: +1 602 582 7111
Inet: /DD.UN=J.RAKOCZYNSKI/O=GTE/PRMD=GTEMAIL/ADMD=TELEMAIL/C=US/@sprint.com
From: paulw@hpspdla.spd.HP.COM (Paul Welch)
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 18:34:26 GMT
Subject: Re: Exhaust Manifold Stud Removal
Organization: HP Palo Alto Fabrication Center
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

For rusted/seized bolts and the like, I use Kroil by Kano Labs.  The
other thing you might try is adding a little heat.  Since the 
coefficient of thermal expansion for aluminum is roughly twice that
of steel, the hole should get larger faster than the stud.  And/or,
you might try grinding some flats on the stud (if they aren't there 
already) so you can get a wrench on it (I assume you haven't been
able to get a wrench on it yet.)

Ultimately, PERSEVERANCE will prevail.

Good luck-

PW
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: GM 2.8L V6 oil leaks
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 25 Aug 92 16:00:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * Jacksonville AR USA * 501-985-0059



->   News to me.  On *ALL* the chevies I've had apart - and Fords
-> and Chryslers - I have *NEVER* seen this "unmachined gasket surface".

 Fords and Chryslers machine the surface where the valve cover meets the
head.  Chevrolet did not, at least until '86 when they went to the new
cover design.  Just a plain old rough casting.
                 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mrein3@CFSMO.Honeywell.COM (Matt Rein #3)
Subject: overheating
To: rec.autos.tech
Posted-Date: Wed, 2 Sep 92 07: 53:49 cdt
Organization: Honeywell Systems & Research Center
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 12:53:49 GMT
Received-Date: Wed, 2 Sep 92 07: 53:56 CDT

> 
> I suspect a leak in the cooling system, and figure that the coolant simply
> ran dry. There is one other sympton that is confusing me, however. Now even
> with a full radiator, whenever the truck is idling and I turn on the heater,
> the air coming out of the heater remains cool until I rev the engine a bit--
> then it heats up momentarily and then gets cool again. This is not the same
> response that I remember before the engine boiled over. Then, the heater seemed
> to heat up quickly even at idle and gave good constant heat output. 

> Is this related, and, if so, what does it mean? How can I check for damage
> to the engine due to overheating?
> 
I would suspect that you have some air in the cooling system.  This would
be caused by just filling the radiator up and closing the system.  When
you get a chance, with the engine cool, take the cap off and start the
motor.  You need to "burp the system".  Let it heat up, you'll see the level
of the coolant slowly come up and then drain down.  Be standing there with
some 50-50 to keep topping the system off.  When you dump the cold 50-50 in
the thermostat will close again and you have to wait for it to heat up
again.  This will go on for a while.  When you don't have to add anymore 
(you see the water is flowing through the raidiator and the level remains
constant) put the cap back on and check the heater.  When the engine warms
up all the way you'll have plenty of heat again.  You still have to find
the leak though.


                                       _                
Matt Rein                             / )/              / /
CFS/MO                               /  /_  _       _  / / _
Coon Rapids, MN                     (__/ /_(/_|\_|_(/_/_/_(/__ BY CHEVROLET
From: pwu@oreo.ai.mit.edu (Peng Wu)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Fuel Separator
Date: 28 Aug 92 19:49:02 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
In-reply-to: george@mech.seas.upenn.edu's message of 27 Aug 92 16:11:03 GMT


    Subject: Re: Fuel Separator
    Date: 27 Aug 92 16:11:03 GMT
    References: <1992Aug27.000428.3252@csis.dit.csiro.au>
    Sender: news@netnews.upenn.edu
    
    :The inventor is currently testing it on his 2.6l 4cyl Mitsubishi Magna (Sigma)
    :and claims 50% less fuel consumption.
		^^^
    you had me going for a second.  Why cant these types learn to make up
    more realistic claims?

I once had a car that seemed to consume fuel by the hour, not the mile it ran.
So I think it is possible for some cars to cut the idle fuel consumption quite
a lot.  But I will doublt anything near that much at full load.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen)
Subject: Fan belts w/teeth
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 92 04:36:09 GMT


just bought a few belts to replace the ones in an '86 Audi 5000S.
here's the problem: the old ones have teeth in them (actually,
the teeth are so wide that it would be more accurate to say that
the belt has slits in it).  the new ones don't.

i've looked at the pulleys and they are smooth.  the new ones should
run fine, as far as i can tell.  in fact, they should be better because
they put more surface area in contact with the pulley.  so why
would they have put teeth in the old belts?  the only thing i can
think of is that the belt might be more flexible but this doesn't
seem like it would make much difference anyway.

i'm not really in the mood to buy OEM belts at nearly $20 each
(today i paid $25 for a thermostat that should cost $4.29, and $22
for an exhaust manifold gasket), so i'd like to use the ones i bought.
these belts were listed as being usable in the Audi 5000S in the belt
catalog.  is there something i'm missing here?  what the hell are the
teeth for?

-teddy
From: v087mxgb@ubvmsd.cc.buffalo.edu (Shawn E Thompson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: spark plug nightmare & warning.....
Date: 31 Aug 92 16:32:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41


I could rant & rave endlessly about what a lemon I bought
and auto quality/dealer integrity etc, etc, etc.....


for *this* post tho' I'll be specific:


I *had* a 1987 Pontiac Grand AM SE Turbo (OHC, MFI). This had an
Al head, unfortunately. Excessive warping caused two successive
head gasket failures. These manifested themselves as coolant
from the water jacket entering the chamber (#2). This would short
everything and blow the coil, EI, etc.


Well the second time it happened, it wasn't under warranty. I wasn't
sure this was the same problem (it was not as severe), since all I
witnessed was coolant consumption (not leakage). (btw no H2O got
into the oil).


I added some silver solder to plug what I thought was a small
imperceptible radiator leak.OOPS!!! This *welded* the #2
spark plug into the Al head - broke in half at the threads.



Beware the above remedy it can be *very* troublesome.


Shawn E. Thompson                         | Project Engineer/Mgr  (716)891-3375
v087mxgb@ubvms.cc.buffalo.edu             | Leica, Incorporated
University @ Buffalo                      | PO Box 123
Graduate School of Mechanical Engineering | Buffalo, NY 14240-0123
------------------------------------------+-----------------------------------
"Nothin ever grows in this rotten old hole, and everthing is stunted and lost..
and nothin really rocks n nothin really rolls and nothin's ever worth the cost"
                                                               --- Meatloaf
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rrodabau@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Ronald D Rodabaugh)
Subject: Re: 1985 Cadillac V8 90k miles
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Summary: Get your money back...
Organization: The Ohio State University
Distribution: rec.autos.tech
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 05:45:31 GMT

In article <1399@ceylon.gte.com> SIL0@bunny.gte.com (Sheldon Lieberman) writes:
>Recently purchased car from dealership with 90 day warranty. During 1st day
>trial period the car stalled at low speeds (e.g. looking for parking spot
>at mall). When I drove it later that day seemed ok. Dealer replaced part
>of MAP sensor in computer control module.
>Took car on highway, 'Service Now' light came on, car seemed ok. Drove for
>20 minutes light went off then came on again. Return trip, same thing
>occured. Car stalled while parking. Dealership replaced computer control
>module, "road tested" the car for two days with no stalling.
>Drove car for 1 hr -ok. During short drives (shopping with wife), car
>stalls while parking. Return trip, the 'Service Now' comes on again for 10
>mins then goes off. Car stalls while slowing down to enter traffic circle.
>Stalls whether 'S.N.' light is on or off. Stalled while moving at 30 -40
>MPH. Car always restarts.  Above symptoms are sporadic. Sometimes sense
>engine surge at idle or at low speeds. Any advice?

     Take it back!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :-)

David Rodabaugh                    rrodabau@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu
Senior, Mechanical Engineering
The Ohio State University
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: schludermann@sscvx1.ssc.gov
Subject: Re: Pressurize Oil Before Starting ?
Organization: Superconducting Super Collider Laboratory
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 13:53:36 GMT



Here's something I read a while back in a Racer's supply catologe.  In auto
racing the acceleration rates (lateral and linear) can be sufficent to cause
the oil pickup to come out of the oil in the sump. A solution was to have
a cylinder of a couple of qts connected to the main oil galley and pressurized
from it. Thus under most cases some oil pressure was maintained. There also
was an option of installing a soleniod valve interlocked with the ignition
switch so that this cylinder would hold this pressure and reuse it when
starting. Pretty trick eh?

                                     Kris
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: enns@waterloo.hp.com (Roger Enns)
Subject: Shocks for '79 RX-7
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 15:01:40 GMT
Organization: HP Panacom Div Waterloo ON Canada
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1.3 PL5

I am in need of a new set of shocks for my 1979 RX7.  The present
set is completely sacked.  Does anyone have recommendations on a
good set of shocks for this car?  Performance is more of a
concern than ride quality.  The springs have been replaced with
slightly stiffer-than-stock versions, it that data is of any use.
Also, I am looking at purchasing from a mail-order house in USA,
and shipping to Canada, as prices here for any nonstock parts is
quite high.  Any recommendations on reputable mail-order house?

Thanks in advance,
Roger Enns (enns@waterloo.hp.com) Panacom Automation Division, HP
C-GIIV Dragonfly, 1979 RX7 13B, 1985 Colt, 1984 Interceptor 500
From: pcw@flutter.tv.tek.com (Patrick C. Wilkins)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 12 point bolt heads on Ford
Date: 1 Sep 92 20:34:45 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Tektronix TV Products

I have a '84 LTD with those bolts. I think I remember removing them with 
the closed end of a 1/2" combination wrench.
--

-------------------------------------------------------------------
    Pat Wilkins II
    A.K.A. Clif
    Email pcw@flutter.tv.tek.com
    Work 503-627-6525

-------------------------------------------------------------------
    Is Deja-vu real or is life just redundant???????
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rakoczynskij@gtephx.UUCP (Jurek Rakoczynski)
Subject: Re: Cleaning spark plugs??
Organization: AG Communication Systems, Phoenix, Arizona
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 17:34:12 GMT

In article <1992Aug31.044935.18129@news.Hawaii.Edu>, yosinaga@uhunix.uhcc.Hawaii.Edu (Naoko Yoshinaga) writes:
> Why is anti-seize lubricant necessary on spark plugs? Someone, who
> builds 60-70's Chevy engines said to never use it. Because the
> anti-seize can be conductive and the anti-seize can also mess up the
> gap of the plug. Therefore it will degrade the performance of the
> spark plug. 
> 
> All I can say in return is that the manuals say to use it. I don't
> know why, though. Could someone please give me explanations or
> references on why it is necessary? I would really appreciate it! > 
> Thanks!

Maybe I lost something in your post but:
Anti-sieze must be used on the plug threads going into aluminum heads
and may be used (in place of oil) in iron heads.  There is a high
probability that the plug threads will simply "rip the hell out of the
surface of the aluminum threads" when you remove the plug in an
aluminum head without a proper lube.  It also makes it a lot easier to
take the plugs out.

As for being conductive, the stuff you usually buy off the shelf is
non-conductive (relatively speaking).  But at 8000+ volts. a few ohms
really doesn't make a difference and the interferance fit of the
threads will provide a very good ground contact to the head.  If
anything, being conductive is what you want, but it really doesn't
matter.

As for messing up the plug gap, *IF* you put too much on the portion
of the plug threads that *MAY* extend too far into the combustion
chamber, and this glob *DOES* make it into the chamber, you *MAY* have
some deposits from the anti-sieze that *MAY* settle near the positive
conductor (usually the center post) on the insulator that *MAY* leak
some current to ground that *MIGHT* make a noticable differance in
performance.

I was trying to think of something on an engine that should not have
something on the threads, such as thread lock (or equvalent), lube,
anti-sieze, sealant, etc., but I can't think of any.  Not that you
coundn't do it without something, but you shoudn't.


-- 
Jurek Rakoczynski, AG Communication Systems, POB 52179, Phoenix, AZ. 85072
UUCP: ...!{ncar!noao!enuucp | att}!gtephx!rakoczynskij  Voice: +1 602 581 4867
Inet: gtephx!rakoczynskij@enuucp.eas.asu.edu              Fax: +1 602 582 7111
Inet: /DD.UN=J.RAKOCZYNSKI/O=GTE/PRMD=GTEMAIL/ADMD=TELEMAIL/C=US/@sprint.com
Organization: Freshman, Mechanical Engineering, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1992 15:05:43 -0400 
From: Steve Anthony Nilsen <sn1k+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: Timing Belt Broken?

>My Corolla died yesterday.  Just died.  When you try to start it
>it makes a very different sound then normal.  Like the engine
>has no compression.  I don't think I here anything like major
>engine parts hitting together (valves and pistons).
>
>Car has 98,500 miles, 4A-GE engine (same as MR2 used to have)
>Rear wheel drive.

Yep, that's the sound it makes.  You really can't tell if there was
internal damage-- it happens so quickly.  I have had timing belts break
on me in an 85 Sentra and an 86 Accord.  In the Sentra, 8 valves needed
to be replaced (it was cheaper to put a used head on it).  In the
Accord, there was no damage.  They both died the same way, and made the
same sounds aftrewards (spinning with no compression).  Call Toyota and
ask their service department if your car has an "interference" engine.

Steve
From: PNCSPPC@CCVAX1.CC.NCSU.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Best type of wipers?
Date: 1 Sep 92 01:59:59 GMT

I've never been happy with how well my windshield wipers work.  I've tried
several different brands (standard single blade) over the past few years,
but that didn't seem to make much of a difference.  Since I have to get my
car inspected soon, and I need new wiper blades, I thought I might try once
more to solve this problem.  Do the "European-style" double wipers work any
better than single-blade wipers?  Also, has anyone tried the new
"triple-blade" wipers that supposedly never wear out?  Since my Usenet
newsgroup access is variable I'd appreciate replies by e-mail.  Thanks.
 
Phil Calvert
 
<Bitnet: pncsppc@ncsuvax / Internet: pncsppc@ccvax1.cc.ncu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: yang@resmel.bhp.com.au (Sam Yang)
Subject: Converting to electronic ignition, air-points
Keywords: points ignition, electronic ignition, convert, air-points
Organization: BHP Research - Melbourne Laboratories, AUSTRALIA
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 00:21:36 GMT


Hello Friends,

This is an enquiry about converting a points ignition system into an
electronic one for a Toyota Corolla 10/1983 KE70 Wagon. The car has
a 1.3L 4 cylinder engine (4KC).

I drive about 80km/day to work. One of the problem with the car is that
it eat contact points too quickly -- one in about half a year. The
performance degrades noticeably when the points getting older. Someone
suggested me to use a different kind of points -- air points which has
a hole in the platinum. Does anyone has any experience with this kind
of points? Are they any good? What is the best brand I should look for?

To eliminate the problem, I am also considering converting it to
electronic ignition. It looks from some old books that the EI is better
than the PI in every aspect. It would be very helpful for me if you
could comment and/or compare the two ignition systems. How reliable is
the aftermarket EI? What is the expected performance improvement when
converted to EI? Which type of EI is better? Which brand is the best and
which brand should be avoided?

Thank you in advance

Sam
From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Early/Classic car parts?
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 09:29:10 -0500

 MM> Anyone know of a good source for early/classic car parts?
 MM> I'm looking for seal kits, brake parts, ignition parts, etc
 MM> for late 40's Chevy. Are there places that specialize in
 MM> parts for older model cars?

J C Whitney has a fair selection.
From: jsw@umiacs.umd.edu (Jeff Webber)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Timing Belt revisited
Date: 31 Aug 92 04:29:54 GMT
Organization: UMIACS, University of Maryland, College Park, MD 20742

(1985 Toyota Corolla GTS, DOHC 16v 1.6l  same engine as 80's MR2's)

Last week my timing belt apparantly broke on my above car.
Since someone posted that all toyotas made after a certain year
had freewheeling engines I decided to do the repair myself.

I think the timing belt broke as a result of some other engine
failure.

When timing belts break do they normally break by splitting somewhere
or do they lose a bunch of teeth in one area?  I ask as my belt had
its teeth torn off by the crankshaft.  I believe that something 
caused the belt to stop moving (something caused a camshaft to stop
turning).   And thus the teeth were stripped off.  The belt didn't
look bad otherwise.

I replaced the belt and lined everything up according to the service
manual but the engine does not run (well it barely runs but I don't
count the horrible noises its making as running).

Compression test reveals only one cylinder with normal compression.
1) 180psi
2) 160psi
3)  90psi
4) 100psi

179 is normal.

Here are my questions:

Do the timing belts normally sever or do they lose teeth like mine?
(Mine lost all its teeth over several inches)

Did my belt break as a result of some other failure (valve dropping,
or some other top end problem?)?

Does anyone know if this engine is freewheeling or not for sure?

Any and all input on the problem is greatly appreciated.  It looks
like I will be removing the head next weekend.  I want to know
what I'm looking forward to.  I don't think this car is worth
having its engine rebuilt by a shop.  I'm going to try to do it
myself if it is necessary.

BTW - The crankshaft pulley bolt is not a problem if you have an
impact wrench and compressor. :-)

-- 
Jeff Webber /   U of Maryland Institute for Advanced Computer Studies
path: uunet!mimsy!jsw  phone (301)-405-6746 jsw@umiacs.umd.edu  DoD #243
1965 Ford Mustang Convertible                     1988 Honda Hawk GT 650
From: jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: octane boosters (was Re: Broquet: Fuel Catalyst)
Date: 1 Sep 92 21:33:53 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.

ggg@hpsad.sad.hp.com (Gary Goodlund) writes:

>Hi Gaven,

>This raises a question.  Does this additive cause any fouling of the 
>spark plugs? I've used a fuel additive called "+104" or "104 Octane"
>or somesuch thing.  It does reduce the detonation pretty effectively
>but the plugs are so badly fouled by about 5-6Kmiles that the engine
>sounds terrible.This is a stock 9:1 compression ratio on a '72 240Z.

Sounds like they may be using tetraethyl iron.  Works almost as good
as TEL but without special scavengers, it does just what you're seeing.

>I'd like to find another product that reduced detonation effectively
>but didn't cause these problems.  So far, I haven't seen anything on
>the market in Northern California.

Easy.  Good old fashioned toluene.  At about $1.60 a gallon in 50 gallon
lots (recent quotes) and at a rate of about a quart per tank for about
3 or 4 points octane boost, it's about a cheap as you can get and no
fouling.

John

-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC               |Interested in high performance mobility?  
Performance Engineering Magazine (TM) |
Marietta, Ga                         |Interested in high tech and computers? 
jgd@dixie.com                        |Write me about PE Magazine
Need Usenet public Access in Atlanta?  Write Me for info on Dixie.com.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mxl@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (marc.a.levy)
Subject: Sears Law Suit
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 11:56:10 GMT

Does anyone have the details on the recent lawsuit against 
sears (That I hear they lost) that would entitle all of sears
automotive customers to receive a $50 credit to cover the
problems that sears has been having?

I dont think sears was trying to rip us off, I just think
their mechanics (in general) were all inexperienced, and
careless.

Marc.
From: wpcallah@RWASIC17.AUD.ALCATEL.COM (William Paul Callahan)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: DOT3 -> DOT5, how messey ?
Date: 4 Sep 92 18:01:51 GMT
Article-I.D.: rwasic17.9209041801.AA00554

I am considering conversion to DOT5 brake fluid. I am looking for a higher 
viscosity fluid, and I suspect Silicone is a tad more viscus.  DOT5 is not 
compatible with 3, or 4; so how clean does the system be prior to the 
introduction of the 5.  Can I empty the master cylinder, fill it with 5 and 
pump it into the system (this will be a 2 person job, opening the bleeder, 
depressing the brake, closing the bleeder, releasing the brake - repeat...).  
Or - do I have to use a solvent, change the rubbers in the system etc. ?

I can be reached at wpcallah@rwasic17.aud.alcatel.com, and maybe not as I can 
not get the server to send me anything back, so you might have to respond to 
the autos.tec.

Thanks, Paul
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech