From: u6409886@ucsvc.ucs.unimelb.edu.au
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Aussie classics #1
Date: 15 Sep 92 00:57:20 GMT
Organization: The University of Melbourne

Here is the first "Classic Aussie Spots" post. There will be more later.
(Any volunteers are welcome to contact me or post your own.) I hope to
be able to archive these somewhere, and have them available for FTP.

We now return you to your regular chalk flame war.

	Andrew Davies

"They say every man must have protection
They say every man must fall"
    Bob Dylan

*********************************************************************
Classic Australian Climbing Area #1: Mount Arapiles (Victoria)

General Description:
(Rock, setting, location etc)

Mount Arapiles is geologically an intrusion of metamorphosed sandstone
(quartzite), the surrounding material of which has weathered away to
leave the mount sitting in the middle of an essentially flat area, which
is largely devoted to (unsubsidised) wheat growing. Visually then, it is
quite striking, as the 3km or so of cliffline rises up to 200m above the
surrounding plains, and is visible for some distance as you drive towards
it. It is sometimes described as "the Ayre's rock of the Wimmera". Arapiles
is roughly half-way between the cities of Melbourne and Adelaide, and the
nearest towns are Natimuk 9 km (pop few thousand) and Horsham 30 km (?)
(pop some tens of thousands). It is possible to get to Horsham by train
or bus, and then hitch to Arapiles. The rock itself is contained within
a state forest, and is thus the province of the state conservation and
environment department. There are very few restrictions in place (so far),
the only major one being against the placement of abseil (rappel) chains.
(Don't ask me, I think it beats the hell out of people eroding gullies etc
scrambling off). There is a fair bit of wildlife at Arapiles, Kangaroos,
birds of prey and about 10^8 lizards. All wildlife is protected by law,
and _all_ snakes are likely to be (very) poisonous.

Weather: Generally very good, but can be wet in the springtime. (Sep-Nov)
In the hottest part of the summer the big faces can be unliveable, but there
are enough gullies etc to avoid this as a rule. In the winter the temperature
is generally warm enough for climbing (>5 C), but it can get chilly.

Amenities:

Camping is allowed at Arapiles, and there is usually a small community
of climbers camped amongst the pine trees ("The Pines"). There is a
toilet block, and available (though somewhat revolting) groundwater
via a few taps. It is best to take a container of water for extended trips.
(The town water in Natimuk is fine). There are some fixed fireplaces
(and many unofficial ones), but for much of the summer there is an absolute
(and important!) ban on open fires, so a small gas stove is often advisable.
Also, do _not_ strip the local vegetation for wood. The parks department
often brings wood in, and there is no shortage from the sides of the
approach roads. There is a pub in Natimuk which has good counter meals
if you want a change. There is a climbing/camping gear shop in Natimuk 
called Tjuringa - boots resoled, Friends fixed etc.

Documentation:

There have been several Arapiles guidebooks, and there is rumoured to be
a new one not far off...(Note: this statement is almost always true.)
The Victorian Climbing club interim guidebook should be available ($20), and
provides details of the 2000 or so climbs (!), as well as notes
like those above, and some photos of climbs/climbers, as well as
some interesting historical notes. Note that Aussie guidebooks do not have
topos, and usually no diagrams at all. The description of a climb will
be like (fictitious climb follows):

	RAINING HEXES (KEL'S CLIMB),  95m, 17 **

	A great climb with excellent protection, despite the name.

	Starts 4m to the right of the white tree in central gully, near
	the distinctive forked crack.
 
	1. (40m) The crack, trending left to a small stance.
	2. (45m) Up.

Sometimes there is more than this, but not much. It is sometimes a challenge
in itself to find the sucker you want to climb. If in doubt, ask. The "**"
means a recommended/popular climb (Max. ***). 

The climbing (at last):

The best word to describe this is fantastic. What do you want to climb ?
Arapiles has it, from disgusting grunty off widths and chimneys, to
delicate slab climbs. There are *** climbs in almost every grade from 3
to 30 (and a few outside that range). The protection is almost all
natural, though an increasing number of the harder climbs are bolted
(Editorial note: there is something of a double standard here - bolts
are tolerated much more on harder climbs, even though fewer people will
use them.) Note: bolts here do not (repeat not) have fixed hangers. You
will need bolt plates, and a quick lesson in their use before you start.
By and large though, you will get by with a good selection of nuts and
some TCUs. In the rare places where protection is marginal/poor the book
will warn you. The rock is almost uniformly good.

Recommended climbs:

*** Bard 12, 120m  - very atmospheric, airy beginner's climb, with a great
                     traverse

*** D Minor, 13, 33m - bigish overhangs on a 13! Great.

*** Tocatta, 14, 50m - a stylish corner/undercling on the first pitch

*** WatchTower Crack, 16, 100m - the line to end all lines - great climbing
                                 up a corner slab in a superb setting

*** Eurydice, 18, 100m - a strenuous line up a very steep, airy buttress

*** Skink,  18,  106m - up a giant flake in even better positions than
                        Watchtower Crack.

*** Little Thor, 20, 12m (!!) - every move a gem, a trying lead

*** Thunder Crack, 20, 30m - starts some 120 m up - probably the airiest
                             climb at Araps. One for Dr OW.

*** Kachoong, 21, 25m - ape across a 5m roof to a hard pull around. The
                        name is onamatepaeic - it is the sound of the
                        rope catching the falling leader.