HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: napier@cs.ucsd.edu (Jim Napier)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Need a new camera - what to get?
Date: 26 Aug 92 19:55:12 GMT
Organization: AMES Dept., UC San Diego


I have a Canon FTB with a 55mm FD lens that I bought in '76 and used for a
number of years before putting it on the shelf. I tried using it recently
and discovered that the lens no longer works (a repairman said the lubricants
in the leaf shutter had dried up so that the mechanism no longer stops down
properly). However, I'm torn on whether to get the FTB cleaned up and buy a
newer multipurpose lens for it or replace it. I've been away from the camera
market for many years and the technology has changed tremendously so I'm
confused by the choices. To make matters worse I've gotten mixed reactions 
even from camera store salespeople. One guy said they don't make camera bodies
like the FTB anymore and he'd try to keep it. So I'd like some opinions
from readers of this newsgroup. Is buying new lens for the FTB worth it? If
not, what do you recommend in a newer 35mm?

Thanks for any help.

-- 
Jim Napier
Systems Administration
Applied Mechanics & Engineering Sciences Dept.
UC San Diego
(619)534-5414
jnapier@ucsd.edu
Jim Napier
Systems Administration
Applied Mechanics & Engineering Sciences Dept.
UC San Diego
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: djb@cbnews.cb.att.com (david.j.bryant)
Subject: Re: Use Velvia at 32 or 40? (Was: Re: Fuji
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories, Columbus Ohio
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 01:46:04 GMT

For what it's worth, at a recent Canon/Outdoor Photographer seminar George
Lepp strongly encouraged us to rate Velvia at ISO 40 rather than ISO 50.
Results from some film testing, plus lots of follow-on experienced have
convinced him of this.  He did caution that we should be sure our in-camera
light meters are dead-on before we try this.

More details on George's film testing can be found in "Natural Image",
Spring 1990 (NI#21), or in Volume II of "The Natural Image Collection"

                                         
        David Bryant                     UUCP: att!cborion!djb
        AT&T Bell Laboratories       INTERNET: djb@cborion.cb.att.com
        6200 East Broad Street          PHONE: (614) 860-4516
        Columbus, Ohio  43213             FAX: (614) 868-4302

Xref: sparky rec.photo:14915 alt.cd-rom:2777 gnu.misc.discuss:2763 misc.int-property:864
From: jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond)
Newsgroups: rec.photo,alt.cd-rom,gnu.misc.discuss,misc.int-property
Subject: Re: Time to boycott Photo CD
Date: 27 Aug 92 11:17:35 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.

ajayshah@almaak.usc.edu (Ajay Shah) writes:

>I was extremely enthusiastic about the basic idea of Photo CD when I
>first heard of it.  I'm going to strictly avoid it, however, given the
>way Kodak seems to be going about it.

Why, because they don't give you something for nothing? 

>Kodak wants to tie up the file formats under lock and key.  You can't
>write a program to open their files.  You can't even write a program
>which generates their files.  Don't expect to ever see interfaces
>between Photo CD and pbm or TeX.  If you write a neat program which
>does XXX to a file in Kodak format, you can't give that program to
>anyone else.

>The only people who can read/write the Photo CD files are commercial
>vendors who pay Kodak royalties.

As an enthusiastic photographer and user who is waiting on this product 
with bated breath, I say "who cares?"   From my perspective, as one who
now pays anything up to $100 a frame to have pictures digitized and
separated, this is the best thing to come along since color film.
That I can now send off a roll of film and get in return a CD with 
the pix in high resolution digital format directly usable by my
publishing software is almost too good to be true.  That I might have to 
buy a conversion program makes no matter.  The cost will be lost in
the noise.

If you think knowing the format of this product is so important, decode 
and document it yourself.  I don't know the internal format of PageMaker,
CorelDraw, FrameMaker or other applications either but somehow I manage
to use them.

John

-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC               |Interested in high performance mobility?  
Performance Engineering Magazine (TM) |
Marietta, Ga                         |Interested in high tech and computers? 
jgd@dixie.com                        |Write me about PE Magazine
Need Usenet public Access in Atlanta?  Write Me for info on Dixie.com.
From: napier@cs.ucsd.edu (Jim Napier)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Zone System
Date: 26 Aug 92 20:08:44 GMT
Organization: CSE Dept., UC San Diego



I was digging through the books I got when I was studying photography in the
'70s. One of them was a book on Ansel Adam's Zone System. Is this method still
used at all? I haven't done anything with photography in many years and just
started reading this newsgroup so I'm pretty uninformed on current popular
methods and equipment. Thanks.

-- 
Jim Napier
Systems Administration
Applied Mechanics & Engineering Sciences Dept.
UC San Diego
(619)534-5414
jnapier@ucsd.edu
Jim Napier
Systems Administration
Applied Mechanics & Engineering Sciences Dept.
UC San Diego
From: fiddler@concertina.Eng.Sun.COM (steve hix)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: portrait lenses: 35mm-Format.
Date: 1 Sep 1992 20:53:44 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Mt. View, Ca.
NNTP-Posting-Host: concertina
Keywords: 35mm Nikon Portrait

In article <lakhindr.715366411@bowmore.NSD.3Com.COM> lakhindr@ESD.3Com.COM (Lakhinder Walia) writes:
>1. What is generally the range of a portrait lens' focal length..?
>   I know 85mm lens is quite suitable for this. How about 105mm or
>   135 mm.? Of course these lenses will work very well for a studio,
>   I think, but going towards 135mm perhaps forces the subject to be
>   too far..! What is your experience in this please..? Would you like
>   to use 85mm/105mm/135mm..?
 
Yes. 
 
As in, use what works best for the situation. 
 
The 85mm and higher range can work just fine.  I've used 135mm successfully 
in the past, particularly with subjects who are a bit nervous with someone 
working in close (remember seeing full-face shots taken in close with 35mm 
or 24mm lenses?).  Some people will loosen up a bit if you can move back 
a bit further. 
 
You might not like the slightly flatter perspective that you get with the 
longer lens...but it might work well.  Some successful portraits, especially 
outdoors work, has been done with 200 - 400mm lenses. (This wouldn't be 
typical, though.) 
 
I think that 85mm is a little on the short side, but still usable. 

--
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Of making many books there is no end...  |  What's wrong with chasing 
                       -- Eccl. 12:12    |  nebulae till 3 am?  |-(
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Xref: sparky rec.photo:14896 alt.cd-rom:2770 gnu.misc.discuss:2762 misc.int-property:863
From: ajayshah@almaak.usc.edu (Ajay Shah)
Newsgroups: rec.photo,alt.cd-rom,gnu.misc.discuss,misc.int-property
Subject: Time to boycott Photo CD
Date: 26 Aug 1992 21:00:25 -0700
Organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA
NNTP-Posting-Host: almaak.usc.edu

I was extremely enthusiastic about the basic idea of Photo CD when I
first heard of it.  I'm going to strictly avoid it, however, given the
way Kodak seems to be going about it.

Kodak wants to tie up the file formats under lock and key.  You can't
write a program to open their files.  You can't even write a program
which generates their files.  Don't expect to ever see interfaces
between Photo CD and pbm or TeX.  If you write a neat program which
does XXX to a file in Kodak format, you can't give that program to
anyone else.

The only people who can read/write the Photo CD files are commercial
vendors who pay Kodak royalties.

Just when you thought the world had learned the lesson of open
systems, this is a closed system straight out of the dungeons of
Microsoft and DEC.  I will keep away from it, and take care to buy
Fuji Velvia in the future :-)

Writeable CDs are a neat idea, and many other vendors will soon offer
similar scanning services, into sensible file formats (which will work
on ISO9660 drives too :-)).  (Did I hear someone say pbm?? :-)).  

It's not too late; Photo CD is not a "standard" yet.  We can help make
it no more than an expensive blunder on Kodak's part.  If we keep away
from it right now, we will escape being locked in like Microsoft/DEC
lusers have been.

        -ans.
-- 
Ajay Shah, (213)749-8133, ajayshah@usc.edu
From: gsnow@clark.edu (Gary Snow)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: fuji films resolution.
Date: 2 Sep 92 17:04:24 GMT
Article-I.D.: clark.1992Sep2.170424.11236
Organization: Clark College, Vancouver, Wa.  USA

In article <54jnjkp.benoit@netcom.com> benoit@netcom.com (BENOIT SCHILLINGS) writes:
>
>I'm looking for the resolution in line/mm for the FUJI HG400
>and the FUJICHROME 100.
>
>Does anybody has the fuji info ?

                            lines/mm
                           ----------
FujiChrome 100 RD             125
FujiChrome 100 Pro D          125
FujiColor HG 400              100
FujiColor 400 Pro HG          100
FujiChrome Velvia RVP         160

KodaColor Gold 100 Plus       100
KodaColor Gold 400 Plus        80
KodaChrome 64 Pro             100
EktaChrome 64 Pro             125
EktaChrome 64X Pro            125
EktaChrome 100X Pro           100
Kodak Ektar 25 Pro            160
Kodak Ektar 125               160

Gary

-- 
-----
Gary Snow
uunet!clark!gsnow  or  gsnow@clark.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: chipg@access.digex.com (Chip Gallo)
Subject: Sony Mavica Opinion Wanted
Followup-To: rec.photo
Summary: Thinking of Buying
Keywords: mavica, electronic camera
Organization: Express Access Online Communications, Greenbelt, MD USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1992 20:11:27 GMT

I have the opportunity to acquire a Sony Mavica MVC A-10 and
MAP T2 controller for around $300 new. Has anyone had a good
experience with this rig? My primary interest would be 
collecting images for processing on a computer workstation.
Any experiences with warantee service or general repair would
also be appreciated. Summary to the net, if volume of comments
deserves it.

Thanks in advance.

Chip Gallo
Action Comm Research

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jacobson@cello.hpl.hp.com (David Jacobson)
Subject: Re: Canon EOS Rebel at high altitude and Cold - Problems ??
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 16:29:20 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories

In article <25153@castle.ed.ac.uk> hrvoje@castle.ed.ac.uk (H Hecimovic) writes:

>BTW, in Iowa it could be down to -40C, w/wind factor. Is that OK, too?
>Hrvoje

Wind chill is a compensation to actual temperature  (causally
speaking) to indicate how hard it is for a human body to keep warm.
Higher wind speeds penetrate clothing and increase evaporation etc.
None of this applies to cameras, who don't have clothing and don't
perspire, and don't even keep warm.  Unless you are trying to keep the
camera warm and only bring it out long enough to snap a picture, wind
chill factor is irrelevant; only actual temperature matters.

  -- David Jacobson
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: mvolo@ecsvax.uncecs.edu (Michael R. Volow)
Subject: Re: Here is some info on new Sigma lenses
Organization: UNC Educational Computing Service
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 01:46:30 GMT


Sigma's ad in Shutterbug also listed a new 28-07;00 f2.8 constant zof2.8 (constant)
zoom. Anyone have any information about this baby?
-- 
Michael Volow, Psychiatry, Durham VA Med Center, Durham NC 27712
919 286 0411 Ext 6933               mvolo@uncecs.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: cmc4a@galen.med.Virginia.EDU (Costa M. Colbert)
Subject: Re: Polarizing Filters
Organization: University of Virginia
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 15:58:52 GMT

In article <1992Sep3.213053.377@infonode.ingr.com> john@earlj.b11.ingr.COM  
(John H. Earl) writes:
> I went into a camera store the other day to buy a polarizing filter.   
The
> clerk asked if I need a linear or circular filter.  This was news to me.
> Apparently autofocus cameras need a circular filter.  I don't have an AF
> camera but I'm now curious to know:
> 
> 	1) Why do AF cameras need a special type?
> 
> 	2) How does a circular polarizer work?  With a linear filter, the
> 	orientation of the filter determines the amount of polarization
> 	(or perhaps direction is more accurate).  I can't figure out how
> 	the circular filter could be oriented.
> 
All AF cameras have a kind of linear polarizer on the AF sensor. If you  
put another another one the lens, it will interfer with AF or even  
metering. Circular polarizer works pretty much like a linera one. First  
the light is polarized with a linera filter. Then the polarized light pass  
through something (what was it called?) that scramble the light again. So  
the effect is of a linera one but AF still works.
yz
From: honna@cs.concordia.ca (SEGEL honna)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Canon EOS Rebel at high altitude and Cold - Problems ??
Date: 27 Aug 92 16:23:35 GMT
Organization: Computer Science, Concordia University, Montreal, Quebec

In article <1992Aug24.193753.2812@ccu.umanitoba.ca> rao@ccu.umanitoba.ca (Govindaraju Rao) writes:
>hrvoje@castle.ed.ac.uk writes:
>    2) As you attempt to focus, your breath being warmer tends
>       to rise. As it passes the eyepiece it decides to take a
>       "breather" and settles on the eyepiece. If you have not
>       finished focussing, setting the exposure and composing
>      within the first fifteen seconds you can no longer see 
>       through the condensation on the eyepiece.


A possible solution to this problem is as follows:
Put your mouth near the eye-piece/cup and, while allowing room for air to 
move past your lips - don't kiss the damn thing - inhale sharply.  The 
condensation will have returned whence it came.  Works for me; your
mileage may vary.

HS/Michael


-- 
***************************************************************
honna segel
department of computer science
concordia university  *****************************************
Xref: sparky rec.photo:15247 alt.cd-rom:2883 gnu.misc.discuss:2839 misc.int-property:910
From: axman@acadia.Kodak.COM (Mike Axman)
Newsgroups: rec.photo,alt.cd-rom,gnu.misc.discuss,misc.int-property
Subject: Re: Photo-CD - THE FACTS
Date: 1 Sep 92 13:09:14 GMT
Article-I.D.: kodak.1992Sep1.130914.21948
Organization: Eastman Kodak Co., Rochester, NY

In article <rcoadh.715266362@chudich.co.rmit.oz.AU>, rcoadh@kultarr.co.rmit.oz.AU (Alexander Doktorovich) writes:
>jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond) writes:
>
>>Next question: "What is the resolution of the highest resolution image?"
>>Answer: "3072 X 2048", 24 bit color.  Yeehaaa!!!!!
>
>What is the effective spatial and colour resultions of Kodacolour 100?
>Alex.

This is a question that has been investigated for years.  As far as color
"resolution", realize that color negative film has tremendous latitude 
(many stops beyond the narrow region that people usually print or otherwise
display).  This doesn't mean that people necessarily USE all this range 
at any given time, but it allows for a lot of flexibility in exposure.
If we wanted to capture all of this range without visible quantization, 
we would need many more than 24bits of color.  We assume that the person
or exposure algorithm at the scanning stage will isolate the desired region, 
and leave a little "buffer" on either end for rebalancing, recomposition, 
and general tweaking.

As far as the spatial resolution, it's difficult to make a direct comparison.
Film technology forms images via mechanism of random grain formations.
Digital images are formed via a regular matrix of pixels.  I've found it
very difficult to compare the two in a strictly mathematical sense, and 
we end up "looking at" a lot of pictures to validate the "science".
You could just take the absolute resolution and use the Shannon theorem
(sample at least 2 times the highest resolution present), but this assumes 
perfect sampling, etc... and doesn't always lead to the right answer either.

mike


-- 
Mike Axman  
CD-Imaging Advanced Development
Eastman Kodak Company
axman@acadia.kodak.com



DISCLAIMER:
Kodak gives me this Net access for free, but they aren't responsible for my postings.
From: tim@deakin.OZ.AU (Tim Cook)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Nikon F301?
Date: 4 Sep 1992 08:10:38 GMT
Organization: C&CS, Deakin University
NNTP-Posting-Host: mimas.cc.deakin.oz.au


I have decided to buy my first 35mm SLR.

Some of my desires:

   1. Good price -- therefore I am looking at second-hand cameras
   2. Auto aperture, auto shutter, aoerture priority, shutter priority
   3. Electronic winder
   4. Shutter speed(s) faster than 1/1000
   5. Popular brand (more 2nd-hand lenses to choose from)
   6. Reputable brand (likely to last longer and produce better results)

I would state that I'm not too hot for AF, mainly because I don't see it
as a value-for-money feature at the moment.

One camera that has caught my eye, and has most if not all of the above
features is the Nikon F301.  I know that has been succeeded by F401, F601
and F801 models, all of which are AF.

What I want to know is the age fo the F301, and some more details on its
features.  Pointing out any features that it _doesn't_ have, and I may
desire would be very helpful.

So, anybody got any info?
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: hamm@weejordy.physics.mun.ca (Craig Hamm)
Subject: Re: Unsticking photos
Organization: Ocean Sciences Centre
Distribution: ne
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 20:04:22 GMT

In article <1992Aug27.181536.21233@cs.brown.edu>, cmg@cs.brown.edu (Cindy Grimm) writes:
|> 
|> I've got a collection of old photos that got damp at some point in time,
|> and are now all stuck together. Is there a recommended way for unsticking
|> them with as little damage as possible? 
|> 
|> Thanks,
|> Cindy
|> cmg@cs.brown.edu
|> 

	I think you soak them in water, and after a while they will
	unstick.  You must be VERY VERY gentle with them at all
	stages though.  You would then dry them in air.  

	There may be a better standard method, but can't think what it
	would be.  You might have to consider how much these photos
	are worth sentimentally before you take my advice.  I don't 
	want to steer you wrong if there are better ways.

-- 
  
    Craig Hamm, 		From 'Viz', Victor Pratt, the stupid twat
    Memorial University	        Biker: "My bike's got a flat, Vic"
    DoD #1500,           	Vic:   "Really? Whereabouts is it living?"
    '81 Maxim 650 
    ----
From: cyn@odin.mda.uth.tmc.edu (Cyndi Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Color infidelity question (recommendation for Fuji processing needed)
Date: 31 Aug 1992 15:03:00 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: MD Anderson Cancer Center

In article <1992Aug31.051517.1541@walter.bellcore.com>, jchen@flash.bellcore.com (Jason Chen) writes:
..
> I also need some recommendation for a good place to develop Fuji films.
> Fuji color labs is an obvious choice. But I don't know where to buy their
> mailers locally. Any other good choices? The following is my own experience:
> 
> Acme (local supermarket): somewhat greenish, expensive, quick turn around.
> Clark (PA): very greenish, inexpensive, quick turn around (<1 week)
> Skrudland (TX): somewhat greenish, expensive, slow turn around (>2 weeks)
> 
> C. Jason Chen 
> jchen@flash.bellcore.com
I am NOT a photographer, but my boyfriend is and I scan this group for him.
I do know that he gets his proofs (4x6 color prints) done at (hold your
breath) Walmart or Sam's Whoesale 1 hour labs.
The proofs always look great (he uses Fuji NRG film for outdoor sports
photography) and he sells lots of prints based on these proofs.
Maybe you are using the wrong film for your light? I seem to remember him
saying that the wrong light/film combination will often lead to bad color.
Try a filter? (real (tm) photogs please correct/embellish this!)
Good Luck!
--cyndi
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: johnk@gordian.com (John Kalucki)
Subject: Re: Rechargable type of lithium batteries?
Organization: Gordian; Costa Mesa, CA
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 03:58:25 GMT

In article <1992Aug28.000301.23989@leland.Stanford.EDU>, babyduck@leland.Stanford.EDU (Tim Chen) writes:
>Does anyone know of a rechargable replacement for the lithium batter for such
>cameras as the Canon EOS or the Nikon 6006?  I'm not too keen on buying tons
>of lithium batteries even though they last a long time, I'm more interested
>in something that's reusuable.  Since I don't read all of the net most
>of the time can you please email your answers to me at:
>
>babyduck@medisg.stanford.edu
>
>I will post a summary of my findings. :)
>
>Thanks a bunch

The 6006S is infamous for killing its batteries. PopPhoto has had
several articles about it. I've blown through a number of batteries
in the year that I've had the 6006S. Things to mitigate the hemmorage:

	Be sure the battery is seated correctly! I've seen this mentioned
		in several places. Not sure the problem, but on I think
		the Canon(?) had a problem with the battery discharging if
		not seated firmly.
	By brand name batteries! There is definatly a corrilation between
		dying early and cheapo batteries. All of my Panasonic
		and Duracell batteries have lasted 2 to 3 times as long
		as the cheapy-no-name ones. I've learned my lession here.
		Generally you can find name brand ones for the same price
		if you look. When you find them cheap buy 2, they last,
		at least at the rate that I take pictures. (3-4 rolls/month)
	Don't leave the 6006S on for long periods of time. Obviously! 
		The battery will be about three quarters spent after about 
		12 hours in the idle mode. Yes, I left the switch on over 
		night once like a ninny.


I spent an afternoon with the Electronic Source Book looking for
a NiCad version of the 6V lithium. I contacted about 10 distributors.
There is no such beast.

WISH MODE ON

I wouldn't care if it only lasts 1 or 2 rolls, I can keep 2 or 3
charged and rotate them. I could also keep a (long shelf life)
lithium in my bag for backup. It would be a lot cheaper and a lot
less toxic for the environment. Any battery manufacturers out
there??? Listen UP!

WISH MODE OFF


			-John Kalucki
			johnk@gordian.com


Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: tomrice@netcom.com (Tom R. Rice)
Subject: Re: Techniques for taking swimsuit models?
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 92 03:36:11 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 

Another suggestion: _always_ have your model point her toes when
her feet will be in the picture.  Tensed calf muscles and pointed
toes make her legs look longer, slimmer and better every time.
She'll love you for it.

Peter Gowland always carried a good-sized mirror so the model
could make sure she looked her best.  Remember, your first, and
toughest, critic will be your model.

trr
-- 
"Start off every day with a smile and get it over with."  --W.C.Fields
Tom R. Rice   WB6BYH                   Holler Observatory - 
tomrice@netcom.com                     Longitude:  121 d  30 m  20 s W 
CIS: 71160,1122                        Latitude:    37 d  25 m  10 s N 
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: bbs.joyjit@tsoft.sf-bay.org (Joyjit Nath)
Subject: WANTED : Nikon FM2 repair info.
Organization: The TSoft BBS and Public Access Unix, +1 415 969 8238
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 23:18:05 GMT

I have a Nikon FM2, which is just over an year old. Unfortunately, 
there is something wrong with the shutter. The shutter release button
doesnt work. Instead, the shutter gets released if I try to move
the film forward.

I am wondering whether to get it repaired, or whether to trade it in for
a new camera.

Does anybody out there know of a good place to get the camera repaired
or a place they would trade in cameras that dont work ?

I live in the San Francisco bay area and the so I want a store in the
South bay.

Thanks in advance.

Please mail your replies to 'uunet!hcla!joyjit'.

--
Joyjit Nath
uunet!hcla!joyjit
joyjit@hcla.com


--
Joyjit Nath (bbs.joyjit@tsoft.sf-bay.org)