HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: kyle@Csli.Stanford.EDU (Kyle Wohlmut)
Subject: Re: Lucky herp owners
Followup-To: rec.pets.herp, kyle@csli.stanford.edu
Summary: Lucky people who live in Hawaii 
Keywords: Hawaii, African Chameleons, O'Neill's boards
Organization: Stanford University CSLI
Distribution: public, world
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 17:30:51 GMT

In article <1992Apr11.003552.6424@news.Hawaii.Edu>
ginas@uhunix.uhcc.Hawaii.Edu (Gina "Gin-o-matic" Sakata) writes:

>I have been reading this group for several months now.  It must be so nice
>to just go to the pet store to see/purchase your favorite herp.  Here we
>have to go to the zoo!

Yes, but then your selection of native and introduced herp-wildlife is
so mind-bogglingly diverse, you just have to go outside to see herps
in their 'natural' habitat that we only dream about... no snakes to
speak of, unfortunately, but my information has it that there are wild
populations of African Chameleons on the moist windward side of Oahu.
Green Iguanas are all over the place, and the occasional Marine Turtle
happens by during the right season!

Not to mention the OTHER benefits of living on an island paradise...
sure I can go down to a store and buy a Burmese Python on the spur of
the moment, but I'd chuck it all and move back to Hawaii any day!
(Well, maybe not just ANY day. :-)

-/-/-/-/-/-/-/
Kyle
'I sense you are a being of superiour intelligence.' 
              --Various Doctor Who episodes
/-/-/-/-/-/-/-
Organization: University of Maine System
Date: Tuesday, 7 Apr 1992 22:15:10 EDT
From: (((ZERO))) <IO00844@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: More problems with Green Iguanas...

It's my experience and from what I've heard from others, iguanas tend to
acquire an attitude immediately after being injured somehow. This isn't always
the case, but when an injury is serious it does occur. I have a theory that
your iguanas arm was somehow hurt prior to him running about and into things.
This is why his attitude changed so abrubtly.  They will lash out or attempt
to bite signs of danger (or not).
I had an experience not so long ago when I reached into my iguana condo
and the larger one lashed at me.  Believe me, it scared the willy's out
of me..especially since this was not normal. I then noticed what happened,
my iguana had somehow broken a nail (high enough to where it bled) and it was
obviously a bit irritable at that. I did my best to come him down and things
were ok. The next day he was irritable but not lashing. I gave him some attenti
on and by the next day he was ok and back to his normal self.
I think, perhaps, that your iguana may keep his bad temperment until he is
feeling somewhat better.  This is all speculation, but it makes sense. I'm
sure there may be more other reasons, but I hope this helps.
My advice is to try and judge the seriousness of his injury and if it's
serious take him to a vet, if not work with him to calm him down and give
him a little attention...being careful not to get bitten or lashed at though.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Zero Z. Batzell     | Amiga User.     "We come in peace...shoot to kill!"
(207)-581-7579      | Iguana Keeper.     "NCC-42 U.S.S. HEART OF GOLD"
University of Maine | Video Hobbyist.    "Live long and Don't Panic!!"
student with a      | Star Trek TNG Fan.
(mostly harmless)   | Douglas Adams Fan.     MAJOR: Life, The Universe,
transfer in mind.   | Orson Scott Card Fan.         and Everything.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
  The Enterprise is not a ship for freeloading degenerate hitchhikers.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: debra@solbourne.com (Debra Frances)
Subject: Re: Timor and other Pythons
Organization: Solbourne Computer, Inc.
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1992 14:57:02 GMT

I have three adult wild caught Macklot's pythons - each is an absolute
sweetheart....
                      Debra
From: datri@convex.com (Anthony A. Datri)
Subject: Timor and other Pythons
Organization: Engineering, CONVEX Computer Corp., Richardson, Tx., USA
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 01:46:50 GMT
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by a user at CONVEX Computer
              Corp. The opinions expressed are those of the user and
              not necessarily those of CONVEX.

Any knowledge out there about these?

Spotted Python (Liasis maculosus)
Water Python (Liasis fuscus)
Timor Python (Python timorensis)
Papuan Python (Liasis papuanus)
Olive Python (Liasis olivaceus)

-- 


======================================================8--<
From: mdtaylor@wc.novell.com (Mark D. Taylor)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Lecture Tonight 4/13
Date: 13 Apr 92 16:39:34 GMT
Article-I.D.: novell.1992Apr13.163934.23422
Distribution: ba
Organization: Novell, Inc.  Walnut Creek, CA

Tonight at 7 there is a lecture by Pat Latas at the Penninsula
Humane Society in San Mateo.  The topic is "Overall Care for
Amphibian and Reptile Guardians" ("Guardians" is what the
soc.humane uses in place of "Owners").  Dr. Latas is apparently
a herp vet from SF, who is sometimes called in by the humane
society to help in herptile cases.  I don't know anything else
about her.

Penninsula Humane Society
12 Airport Blvd
San Mateo
340-7022

Disclaimer:  I am in no way connected with the sponsors or
presenters.  I just found it in the paper, called for info,
and passed it on.
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: datri@convex.com (Anthony A. Datri)
Subject: Re: BURMESE OUTDOORS
Organization: Engineering, CONVEX Computer Corp., Richardson, Tx., USA
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 17:36:15 GMT
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by a user at CONVEX Computer
              Corp. The opinions expressed are those of the user and
              not necessarily those of CONVEX.

>   Someone mentioned that there are rattlesnakes in the area.  I don't
>think that they would pose a threat.  You sound like you will let the
>snake wander around on a lawn - timber rattlers stick to woods.

That's not what I meant --  I intended that to mean that there might be
snake mites around.

-- 


======================================================8--<
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: jgraham@sunflower.bio.indiana.edu (jim)
Subject: Toronto Dinner Incident
Organization: hoosiers, inc.
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 92 20:20:29 GMT

Is there an update on this one ? I heard the Burmese was 15 ft, and I also
heard it was 9 ft (hah!). Is there anymore availble, perhaps from a more
local publication ?

Thanks,

Jim
jgraham@sunflower.bio.indiana.edu

PS. Please mail me a copy of any post.
From: jp30+@andrew.cmu.edu (Jonathan Bruce Pollack)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Monitor Lizards
Date: 7 Apr 92 04:20:12 GMT
Organization: Senior, IM - H&SS Track, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA

I recently was out at a pet store near Pittsburgh and they had a monitor
of some kind.  Black with yellow stripes. It was about 4 or 5 inches,
and they were charging $40.  Is this a good price and is it possible to
have these animals be tame?
From: v105mahs@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (Peter P. Donohue)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: herpaholics
Date: 9 Apr 92 21:21:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41


   I've always wondered, who is the biggest herpaholic on the net.
I know it has absolutely no bearing on anything, but it should be
interesting to hear.
   I'm sure someone has to have more herps than I (I would hope 
that I'm not the worst).  I presently have 10 snakes.  Anyone
worse than me?

					Pete

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Peter P. Donohue - University at Buffalo, Graduate School of Management
bitnet:   V105MAHS@UBVMS                . One of the mass of graduating
internet: V105MAHS@UBVMS.CC.BUFFALO.EDU .  students begging for a job...
From: SHERE@SLACVM.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: PROBLEM WITH CORN SNAKE
Date: 8 Apr 92 18:49:45 GMT
Organization: Stanford Linear Accelerator Center

You're feeding him before he has fully digested his prevous meal and
he's passing the undigested bit to make room for the new.  Try
waiting until he's "gone" before feeding him again.  My albino corns
would do this every once in a while and, while it is nice to see
them chowing down, it IS messy!   Bye! Lee
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: pholland@iastate.edu (Paul J Hollander)
Subject: Re: PROBLEM WITH CORN SNAKE 
Keywords: digesting problem (GROSS) 
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames, IA
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1992 18:01:35 GMT

In article <1992Apr8.164414.25449@eagle.lerc.nasa.gov> 
nnbarn@buzzard.lerc.nasa.gov (Paullette Hunsdorf) writes:
>
>	I have a 3' corn snake. He is about an inch and a half diameter. 
>Smaller then most corns I've seen his same length.  He is a real aggressive 
>good eater, but lately I've noticed that instead of the usual snake type 
>feces you can actually identify it as a mouse. (gross) He is in a tank with 
>a constant floor temp. of 78 to 80.  My question is: Is he digesting poorly 
>or is he doing a throw up job ?  This happens about two days after he eats, 
>and I can't tell what end it's coming from. I haven't seen him actually 
>discharge it.  I've had him for about two months, this started about two 
>weeks ago. He gets a mouse every three four days.  My other nine herps never 
>displayed any behavior like this.... Whats his problem ?  If the other herps 
>aren`t hungry they just won't kill and eat.      
>
>
>		please help.... any clues would be helpful
>
>
>						PH

IMHO, he's throwing up.  First thing to do is to warm him up a few degrees.
82-85 F to start with.  He may have an intestinal problem with flagellates
or some other microorganism, but the first thing of all is getting him to 
the right temperature.  Will try to e-mail later.


Paul Hollander    pholland@iastate.edu
Behold the tortoise: he makes no progress unless he sticks his neck out.

Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: gerard@progress.COM (Gerard Bras)
Subject: Re: BEWARE OF HEATING PADS!
Keywords: heating, pad, light, rock, sizzle
Organization: Progress Software Corp.
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1992 14:51:53 GMT

sjg@reef.cis.ufl.edu (Steve Greenwald) writes:

... del

>I think that this is a great idea.  The only thing I'd like to add is
>that it would be extremely easy for some entrepreneur to make an inline
>fuse assembly that has a long plug at one end (to go into the wall outlet)
>and had a socket at the other (to plug the heating pad into).  That way
>a splice could be avoided.

.... del

>Determining the maximum current is a little trickier for this method 
>since different heating pads would be used, but I think it is safe
>to say that there should be some maximum current for a given size
>heating pad that is the "danger level" for overheating.  Perhaps
>some physics major could compute it?  Or perhaps even that isn't
>necessary since the problem is with "hot spots" which have a 
>small area.

>Thinking about this, if the problem is only with hot spots then the
>fuse idea might not work - the rest of the pad might be drawing
>zero current and the hot spot might be drawing "normal" current but
>concentrating the area so that it is dangerously hot.  Hmmm.

>Perhaps a thermostatic fuse assembly placed over the heating pad would
>be a better idea.  Place an array of fusible links over the pad to
>cover the entire area so that if any hot spots develop the link melts
>and cuts off the current.


I have to say this is applying a lot of labor to a problem that's 
already been solved.  Why not get devices that work in the first
place instead of trying to outsmart (?) the cost-cutters who
bring us consumer goods?  

A lot of good suggestions have been made regarding products which
are designed for continous use in an agricultural setting.  Not
long ago someone posted about waterbed heaters which, by his description,
come complete with thermostats and are ready to go.  This seems like
a *much* more fruitful direction.

cheers,
-gb-
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: debra@solbourne.com (Debra Frances)
Subject: Re: tegu problems
Organization: Solbourne Computer, Inc.
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 17:07:12 GMT

Sounds like potential breeding behavior.  Don't thing its necessarily parasites-
probably just a case of smelly diarrhea - substitute mice for the eggs for a 
week, and see what happens.
From: qhwpyd@sage.cc.purdue.edu (Cynthia Goff)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: mice breeding
Keywords: cannibalism, space
Date: 7 Apr 92 13:00:26 GMT
Distribution: usa


     I need some help on raising & breeding mice.  We have 4 pregnant females.
One went into labor last night and proceeded to eat what came out either all
of it or part.  Three of the mice are in a 20 gal. low tank (30in. long, 12in.
wide) divided into three separate quarters with wire that are 9.5 in. by 12 in.
One female is living alone in a 10 gal. tank.  The male also lives alone in a 
Hartz plastic cage.  Their diet consists of lab blocks and seed.  I plan to phase the seed out and only give them lab blocks.  
     Is this enough space?  What are the causes of cannibalism?  The male was 
obtained 3 weeks ago this past Sunday.  The female that gave birth did not look
that far along however the "bodies" we found were normal.  The vet checked one
and said it is in the early stages of pregnancy.  The other two have huge bul
bulging sides and are definitely pregnant.  (One of them weighs 75 grams!)
When should the babies be weaned?  How many litters can they have a year with-
out suffering any effects?
     Any help or advice would be appreciated.
Thank you,
Cindy Goff
:
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: pholland@iastate.edu (Paul J Hollander)
Subject: Cage cleaning (was Re: Guest post)
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames, IA
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 21:47:09 GMT

In article <1992Apr7.163552.13125@igor.tamri.com> you write:
>Posted for Lisa_Forman@go.com:
>
>          I was given some used wooden cages from a friend.  They are
>          in good shape but very dirty.  Some type of substrate (corn
>          cob I think) is stuck all over the cage. And the cage has
>          mites.  I want to clean the cages and rid them of mite
>          before I put any type of herp in them. What should I use
>          to clean the cages and rid them of the mites. I was thinking
>          of water and alcohol.
>
>          lisa

Water and alcohol won't get rid of the mites.  I'd put about a quarter of a
Shell No-Pest Strip or equivalent (active ingredient = 2,2-dichlorovinyl 
dimethyl phosphate) in each snake cage and leave it there for three weeks.
The cages are empty, so there will not be any possibility of hurting any herps.
This is the only way I'd be sure the mites were eradicated.  I hope you have 
a garage or some storage area where you can put them while they are fumigated.

As for cleaning the cages, try a good laundry detergent followed by a rinse 
with a properly diluted sodium hypochlorite bleach like Chlorox (tm) as a 
disinfectant.  See the bottle label for dilutions.  Do *not* use phenol or
coal tar products like Ly-sol or Pine-sol.  They are toxic to herps.

Paul Hollander    pholland@iastate.edu
Behold the tortoise: he makes no progress unless he sticks his neck out.
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Wednesday, 8 Apr 1992 11:18:38 EDT
From: <SAF108@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: HELP! Garter offspring

My female garter just had young. I was away when the event took place
and upon returning found what looks like 5 healthy critters. What do you
feed this little buggers? I've tried small crickets and very small guppies
but to no avail. If you have experience within this area please drop me
a line. Also, I've heard that garters can have up to 30 or more young, is
it possible that mom and dad ate the others? I moved the 5 immediately to
avoid anymore potential dining. Thanx STEVE
P.S. I live in PA could I release them? Any chance of survival?
Pet stores don't seem interested.
From: v105mahs@ubvmsd.cc.buffalo.edu (Peter P. Donohue)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Timor and other Pythons
Date: 16 Apr 92 18:31:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <1992Apr13.014650.11437@news.eng.convex.com>, datri@convex.com (Anthony A. Datri) writes...
>Any knowledge out there about these?
   The following info is from an article entitled "Care and husbandry of some
Australian, New Guinean, and Indonesian Pythons" by Brian and Scott Kend.  It
was published in the March/April 1992 issue of Reptile and Amphibian Magazine.

>Spotted Python (Liasis maculosus)
   not listed in article

>Water Python (Liasis fuscus)
   Originally from: New Guinea, Timor, and Northern Australia
   Length: Up to 8'
   Habitat: rainforests, swamps, and grasslands - always found near water
   Husbandry: large dry cage, several solid branches, large hidebox, and large 
pool of water; eat rodents
   Temperament: NASTY

>Timor Python (Python timorensis)
   not listed in article

>Papuan Python (Liasis papuanus)
   Originally from: western New Guinea
   Length: up to 15'
   Habitat: terrestrial, grassy lands
   Husbandry: large dry cage; eat rodents and rabbits
   Temperament: NASTY

>Olive Python (Liasis olivaceus)
   Originally from: Northern Australia (liasis olivaceus barroni is from
Western Australia).
   Length: 8 to 10'
   Habitat: mostly terrestrial, encountered in rocky areas, close to water.
   Husbandry: large dry cage, large hidebox, rocks, pool; eat rodents, some
juvenilles prefer chicks
   Temperament: NASTY

    This information was copied without permission from the authors.

						Pete

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Peter P. Donohue - University at Buffalo, Graduate School of Management
bitnet:   V105MAHS@UBVMS                . I've stopped looking for a job...
internet: V105MAHS@UBVMS.CC.BUFFALO.EDU .    I'm now begging for one!!!
From: v105mahs@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (Peter P. Donohue)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: information sources
Date: 9 Apr 92 19:43:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41


   Gary Sullivan's list of national herp information resources has
reminded me of something I keep meaning to ask.  Has anyone seen the
Slavens Inventory (Reptiles and Amphibians in Captivity - Breeding,
Longevity and Inventory)? I would think this book could be helpful, but
only if the guy is able to get a good inventory.  What sort of 
information is contained in it? Have you found the book to be helpful?
   I'd also be interested in hearing more about the Snake Breeder 
publication.  If anyone has seen it, please let me know what you thought.
   Thanks for any help.

					Pete

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Peter P. Donohue - University at Buffalo, Graduate School of Management
bitnet:   V105MAHS@UBVMS                  .  "Education is a journey
internet: V105MAHS@UBVMS.CC.BUFFALO.EDU   .    not a destination..."
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Saturday, 11 Apr 1992 14:52:33 EDT
From: <SAF108@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: BURMESE OUTDOORS

I want to ask all you Burmese owners what you think about taking your
pet outdoors when it is in the 80-90F temp. range during summer. I have
a young 4 1/4 ft burmese and I live in P.A. I wondered if it is possible
to let her go through the grass (under intense supervision of course) a
bit or if this would expose her to parasites, infectious agents, etc.
I was told somewhere along the line that direct exposure to sunlight is
not good for prolonged periods of time. What's the thinking along these
lines? Any opinions would be appreciated. Thanx STEVE
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: nnbarn@buzzard.lerc.nasa.gov (Paullette Hunsdorf)
Subject: Info on SNOW BOA
Organization: NASA - Lewis Research Center  Cleve.,Ohio
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1992 20:17:17 GMT


	While attending a HERP show a couple of weeks ago I saw a sign at a breeders booth regarding : new in 92 SNOW BOAS. he had a picture of a pure white boa that was really beautiful. absolutly no color just pure white, unlike an albino. Due to the crowd around his booth I never got info on the species.

	If anyone has info on these boas please post here. I would like to know about availability, and cost. 								



			Thanks in advance ...										
					PH

	P.S. This is not something you fill with gas and clean your sidewalk off with.
From: sjg@reef.cis.ufl.edu (Steve Greenwald)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Blackening spots on skin
Date: 16 Apr 92 07:22:27 GMT
Organization: Univ. of Florida CIS Dept.

In article <1992Apr10.163133.10057@u.washington.edu> stevep@wrq.com (Steve Poole) writes:
>My iguana has recently developed a strange skin condition that
>I'm hoping someone knows about.  He shed a couple of weeks ago.
>About a week ago a yellowish spot appeared on his back above
>his hind leg.  It gradually grew darker in a concentric fashion,
>with most of the spot now being black, fading to the yellowish
>brown at the perimeter.  There's another spot like it on the
>other side of his back (not quite symmetrically located), and
>another on a hind leg that hasn't turned beyond the y-b color.
>
>The spots don't seem to pain him, though if I prod at them
>he'll shrink away just a bit, as if it's a minor irritation.
>I put Neosporin on them, not knowing what else to do.  I'm
>certain they aren't burns.  His activity level hasn't been
>affected by them, and he's his usual friendly self.
>
>Does this sound serious?  Should I take him to the vet, or wait
>for another shed?  Is this the "blackening skin syndrome" that
>one reads about occasionally without being told anything useful?

I would definitely take your iguana to a vet.  There is a possibility
that these spots are just the iguana equivalent of bruises or 
wounds and are nothing serious.  However I have a theory about
these spots based on an experience I had with my girlfriend's
iguana Ada.  Ada had two of these spots on his nose and his
behavior was a bit funny.  We took him to the veterinary school
here at the University of Florida.  They noticed that his white
cell count was elevated which can be a sign of infection.  The
biopsies they took of the blackened spots showed only dead skin.

They recommended a course of antibiotics (injectibles), and after
several months (herps heals VERY slowly) the black spots went away.
The theory that I have is that sometimes an iguana has some sort
of systemic infection (they cultured Ada's blood and found nothing)
that is unknown and weakens them.  When they bruise themselves this
infectious organism takes advantage of the damaged area, causing the
spreading black spots.  I discussed this with the vets there and
they said this was possible.  They have checked around all over
the world and have not gotten any additional information.

So I would recommend that you take your iguana to a good herp vet
and have some blood tests run.  If there are signs of an infection
treat your iguana with a good injectible antibiotic (oral ones
don't work with iguanas for some reason).

-- 
Steve Greenwald, Ph.D. Student      Internet: sjg@cis.ufl.edu
Computer and Information Sciences
University of Florida               "The nice thing about standards is that you
Gainesville, Florida 32611          have so many to choose from". -- Tanenbaum
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Tuesday, 14 Apr 1992 00:06:28 EDT
From: <TJS119@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: new turtle

I'm getting a new turtle next week and I sorta have an idea about care, but any
 help would be appreciated.  I'm not sure what kind it will be (a friend is pic
king it up in Phili for me) but it will most likely be either a painted or red
ear(?) turtle.  Also any good book suggestions on turtle care would be GREATLY
appreciated.  Thanks in advance.

                                               Tim