HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: Roger.Wilfong@umich.edu  (Roger Wilfong)
Subject: Re: digital launcher proposed
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 93 06:02:00 EST
Organization: UofM Hospitals
X-Newsreader: FTPNuz (DOS) v1.0

In Article <1993Jan11.152410.62630@cc.usu.edu> "sldf3@sol.ee.usu.edu (Weston R Beal)" says:
> 
> I've had little experience with rocketry, but thought about building
> a multi-pad digital launching system.  It would have a digital readout
> that counts down to zero and then launches 5 rockets either simultaneously
> or in sequence.  I have thought a little about adding voice to the countdown.
> 
> My question is this: is there a market for something like this,
 
IMHO:  No, most people who would want these bells and whistles are probably 
have electronics backgrounds and would design and build it themselves.
 
> and if so,
> how much could I sell it for?
 
Considering my first answer, lots.  You need to recover your engineering 
costs over a small number of units.  I'd go for $10K - you only need to sell 
one to make it worth your while.
  
> As experienced rocketeers, maybe you could give me some hints on what
> features to include.  Thanks,
 
I have forgotten who's law says: 
 
  "Everything should be as complex as it needs to be.  But no more."
 
The features you've mentioned make your launcher sound overly complex and 
sophisticated for the task of lighting the fire.  The problems that 
complexity and sophistication present are maintenance.  Range equipment 
takes a beating, breaks and needs to be fixed in the field by inexperienced 
people with inadequate tools.
 
IMHO the over-riding design guide line for a launcher is KISS.
There was a discussion here a couple of months ago about launchers.  Perhaps 
someone saved that thread and can send it along.
From: jack@rml.UUCP (jack hagerty)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rockets
Subject: Re: Rocket Altimeter
Date: 8 Jan 93 07:13:42 GMT
Reply-To: jack@rml.UUCP (jack hagerty)
Organization: Robotic Midwives, Ltd.

In article <1993Jan7.221040.11219@unislc.uucp> dlm@unislc.uucp (Dennis McCurdy) writes:
>
>Hi, folks! I'm building my first HPR (well, ok its uses only an 
>F or G engine, but its big to me) and in addition I am building
>the rocket altimeter that was published in an October '90 issue
>of Radio Electronics (currently Electronics Now). I would like to
>get a listing of the source code for the 1802 processor, but the
>BBS for Radio Electronics doesn't have it listed anymore. So, I

Contact Transolve Corp (listed in the recently posted address list).
The Altimeter in that article was really a prototype of their
product. They sell it as both pre-assembled and kit form, if I'm
not mistaken. They also have a sizable ad in HPRM.

- Jack

=============================================================================
||Jack Hagerty, Robotic Midwives, Ltd.                 jack@rml.com        ||
||Livermore, CA		           NOTE! New, improved address! ^^^        ||
||(510) 455-1143	            (old ones will still work)             ||
||-------------------------------------------------------------------------||
||          " 'Tis a coward I am, but I'll hold your coat"                 ||
||                  - Barry Fitzgerald, _How Green Was My Valley_          ||
=============================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: mcdermot@itd.nrl.navy.mil (John McDermott)
Subject: LITTLE PEOPLE OR WHO LEFT OUT THE PILOT?
Organization: Naval Research Lab, Washington, DC
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 19:17:47 GMT

Contrary to the current trend, I like to build my airplane models in the flight
configuration (wheels up, canopy closed, etc.) I have several newer kits that
don't have a pilot to put in the plane. Does anyone know of a source of pilot
figures, either 1/72 and 1/48 scale? I would also like to populate a B17G but I
don't want to kitbash over a hundred bucks just to collect the figures. (Besides,
then I enter an infinite recursion of pilotless models.)

John McDermott


Xref: sparky rec.models.scale:790 alt.models:1411
From: urf@icl.se (Urban F)
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale,alt.models
Subject: Re: group propagation
Date: 7 Jan 93 06:38:45 GMT
Organization: None. On USENET I speak only for myself.
X-Alt.reply-Address: n.g.u.fredriksson.swe2001@oasis.icl.co.uk

dan@cubmol.bio.columbia.edu (Daniel Zabetakis) writes:

>   Remember that these stats are not authoritative. I guess they are a fairly
>good guide, but could be wildly inaccurate.

I don't believe the estimated figures as such, as the sample population
is too small, but there are lots of people out there who get alt.models
but not rec.models.scale, so the relative figures are probably
dependable.
--
 Urban Fredriksson  urf@icl.se  
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: mcclure@NEBULA.SSD.LMSC.LOCKHEED.COM
Subject: Brass items
Reply-To: mcclure@NEBULA.SSD.LMSC.LOCKHEED.COM
Organization: LMSC, Sunnyvale, California
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 93 14:17:30 GMT

Before someone tells me to post this over in the railroad section, I am
curious about brass items in general and how best to paint them.  I am
painting a brass locomotive for a friend and since the kit is in the
$300+ range I don't want to botch it up.  I heard a suggestion to "pickle"
the loco in vinegar to allow the brass surface to get slightly roughed
up for the paint to adhere better.  Has anybody out there tried this for
photetched brass stuff?  I plan to use Floquil's primer (the one that thins
with Dio-sol) since that is my favorite primer for white metal kits and
will paint the kit using the Floquil Railroad series paints.
Kent M. McClure
Auto racing afficionado and member of San
Jose IPMS chapter.
My views are what they are, like them or not.
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: smb@research.att.com (Steven Bellovin)
Subject: Re: Acrylic paint: Opinions
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 01:46:46 GMT
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories

The February '93 issue of Model Railroader reviewed the new Badger
Accu-Flex paints.  Their review was quite positive, to say the least:

	The release of a new line of model paints doesn't tend to cause
	much celebration.  Singing and dancing are usually reserved for a
	new locomotive or *maybe* a good freight car.  However, a few
	minutes of ``playing'' with Badger's new Accu-Flex line of acrylic
	paints impressed me more than if someone had shown me an N scale
	locomotive with a working diesel engine.

It's quick-drying, sticks well, dries quickly, has very thin coats, and
doesn't need a primer even on metal.  The reviewer does note that one
should clean the airbrush immediately after use -- and with water, not
lacquer thinner -- trying that results in a ``gummy mess''.
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: obrien@netcom.com (No parking EXCEPT FOR BOB)
Subject: Re: Bandai kits - worth anything?
Organization: Netcom Online Communications Services (408-241-9760 login: guest)
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 09:51:01 GMT

Are you sure those 15+ year old Bandai Armor kits are 1/72 and not 1/48?
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale,rec.aviation.military
From: rray@lookout.it.uswc.uswest.com (Randy J. Ray)
Subject: Filing and Organizing Photo Collections
Organization: US WEST Communications, Inc. -- Denver, CO
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 18:54:21 GMT

How do you folks who photograph detail shots on static-display aircraft (or
armor, for that matter) catalog and file those photos? As I look over my
albums of photos, I realise that I have no idea what I have, and where the
negatives are. I can flip through an album to see what I have, but if 
someone in my local club wants prints of my photos, I can't generally produce 
the negatives. I recently developed 4 rolls of film: 36 exp. on a Bf 109G-10
under restoration a few hours from here, 24 exp. on an F8F Bearcat that
Howard Pardue races in NARA events, 24 exp. on a P2V-7, and 24 on an AH-64A,
both photographed as static display at a recent airshow. I have carefully
labelled the envelopes with those negatives. But I really would like ideas on
a good filing system. I use a database for books and magazine articles, but
for photographs, I don't know if it would work.

Any suggestions would be very helpful.

Randy
-- 
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Randy J. Ray -- U S WEST IT/CSD                 rray@lookout.it.uswc.uswest.com
                                                           Phone: (303)595-2852
"It's not denial. I'm just very selective about the reality I accept." --Calvin
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: tjs@earth.wustl.edu (tom sullivan)
Subject: Re: ballast - what to use?
Organization: Washington University, St. Louis MO
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 16:23:06 GMT

In article <DPALACE.93Jan8071716@sunland.gsfc.nasa.gov> dpalace@sunland.gsfc.nasa.gov (Dick Palace) writes:
>
>Try modeling clay, it forms into difficult places and works well
>for me.

Ditto... If you need more wieght, you can stick some lead or steel
shot into the clay.

tom
From: det@phlan.sw.stratus.com (David Toland)
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: Re: ballast - what to use?
Date: 8 Jan 1993 18:10:02 GMT
Organization: Stratus Computer, Software Engineering
Distribution: na
NNTP-Posting-Host: phlan.sw.stratus.com

In article <1993Jan8.162306.26127@wuecl.wustl.edu> tjs@earth.wustl.edu (tom sullivan) writes:
[
In article <DPALACE.93Jan8071716@sunland.gsfc.nasa.gov> dpalace@sunland.gsfc.nasa.gov (Dick Palace) writes:
>
>Try modeling clay, it forms into difficult places and works well
>for me.

Ditto... If you need more weight, you can stick some lead or steel
shot into the clay.
]

Glazing putty is denser and also works well.





-- 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
All opinions are MINE MINE MINE, and not necessarily anyone else's.
det@phlan.sw.stratus.com   |  "Laddie, you'll be needin' something to wash
                           |  that doon with."
From: Simon.N.Smith@cm.cf.ac.uk (Simon N Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: airbrushes
Date: 12 Jan 93 09:32:35 GMT
Organization: University of Wales College of Cardiff, Cardiff, WALES, UK.

Hi,

does anyone have any good recommendations for a middle of the range airbrush?
I'm into collecting Star Wars and Star Trek models, so I have to paint large
areas in greys with a good finish.  I'm not happy with brushing, and I've been
thinking of investing in an airbrush for some time.  So what I'm after is
something that's not too expensive, but does the job well.  I'm not going to
be using it for any detailed work, just painting large expanses.

Any advice would be gratefully accepted!

Cheers,

Simon

P.S. I'm interested in any comments along the lines of "I found the most 
realistic way to paint my ships was..." too!

-- 
Simon N. McIntosh-Smith, PhD candidate    |  Email : Simon.N.Smith@cm.cf.ac.uk
Department of Computing Mathematics,      |  Phone : +44 (0)222 874000
University of Wales, College of Cardiff,  |  Fax   : +44 (0)222 666182
Cardiff, Wales, United Kingdom            |
From: kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM (John Kopf,D,6305)
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: Re: Filing and Organizing Photo Collections
Date: 11 Jan 93 20:37:02 GMT
Reply-To: kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems

>How do you folks who photograph detail shots on static-display aircraft (or
>armor, for that matter) catalog and file those photos? As I look over my
>albums of photos, I realise that I have no idea what I have, and where the
>negatives are. I can flip through an album to see what I have, but if 
>someone in my local club wants prints of my photos, I can't generally produce 
>the negatives.

Check your photo supply store...they have 3-ring binder sheets for 35mm negative
strips.  You can put these into your album next to the pictures from the roll and
at least identify the negatives.

JK
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: zing@wilber.rich.nt.com (Leon Z. Lee)
Subject: Making 1/35th-scale rifle straps
Organization: Northern Telecom, Inc.
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 15:22:10 GMT

Does anyone have any ideas of making rifle and machine gun straps for
1/35th scale combat figures.  I was thinking of cutting strips of
masking tape and then painting them, but if there is a better method of
making these straps..I would be most appreciative for the info.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
 Leon Z. Lee                       |  Internet: leon.lee@nt.com
 Global Meridian-1 Patch Project   |  Phone:    (214) 684-4680  ESN-444
 Dallas Area Information Systems   |----------------------------------
 Northern Telecom Private Networks |  Opinions posted are soley mine
From: sham@cs.arizona.edu (Shamim Zvonko Mohamed)
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: Re: Filing and Organizing Photo Collections
Date: 8 Jan 93 04:06:33 GMT
Organization: U of Arizona CS Dept, Tucson

In article <C0Hz6L.H8n@da_vinci.it.uswc.uswest.com> rray@lookout.it.uswc.uswest.com (Randy J. Ray) writes:
>How do you folks who photograph detail shots on static-display aircraft (or
>armor, for that matter) catalog and file those photos? As I look over my
>albums of photos, I realise that I have no idea what I have, and where the
>negatives are.

What I do (for all photographs, actually, not just "info shots" like details)
is: instead of storing enlargements in albums, I put the negatives in
"archival" clear pages, and get contact sheets made. Now the negative and the
contact sheet can stay together, filed in whatever system you like - by
subject, alphabetically, chronologically, whatever. I store them in 3-ring
binders by subject.

-s

PS - If anyone is wondering what a contact sheet is, instead of blowing up the
pictures to 4x5 etc., all the negatives are printed together, actual size, onto
one sheet.  This way you can get upto 35 35mm frames printed on one 8x10 sheet.
--
The "Introduction to and Help with Radio Control Flying" file (aka FAQ or
"Frequently Asked Questions" file) can be obtained by anonymous ftp from
pit-manager.mit.edu; get /pub/usenet/news.answers/RC-flying-FAQ/part*
   If you don't have ftp, send mail to "mail-server@pit-manager.mit.edu" with
this message:
    send usenet/news.answers/RC-flying-FAQ/part1
    send usenet/news.answers/RC-flying-FAQ/part2
In Europe:
nic.switch.ch, /info_service/Usenet/periodic-postings/faqs/RC-flying-FAQ/part*
Or send mail to /S=archive-server/OU=nic/O=switch/PRMD=switch/ADMD=arcom/C=ch/
or archive-server@nic.switch.ch with the message "help" in the body.

  Shamim Mohamed / {uunet,noao,cmcl2..}!arizona!shamim / shamim@cs.arizona.edu
   Member of the League for Programming Freedom - write to lpf@uunet.uu.net
Organization: University of Maine System
Date: Monday, 4 Jan 1993 16:45:02 EST
From: <WOLPERT@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: Morgan

I have a friend who owns a 1963 Morgan Super Sport, and is looking
to build a model of the same.  Has anyone out there ever seen such
a model?

Thanks

Seth Wolpert
wolpert@maine.edu
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: dpalace@sunland.gsfc.nasa.gov (Dick Palace)
Subject: Re: ballast - what to use?
Organization: Goddard Space Flight Center, Greenbelt, MD
	<1993Jan8.162306.26127@wuecl.wustl.edu>
	<1993Jan8.194953.19631@rambo.atlanta.dg.com>
	<1993Jan10.010737.19629@netcom.com>
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 15:49:27 GMT

In article <1993Jan10.010737.19629@netcom.com> obrien@netcom.com (No parking EXCEPT FOR BOB) writes:

   Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Path: nsisrv!ames!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!The-Star.honeywell.com!umn.edu!csus.edu!netcom.com!obrien
   From: obrien@netcom.com (No parking EXCEPT FOR BOB)
   Summary: modeling clay problems
   Organization: Netcom Online Communications Services (408-241-9760 login: guest)
   References: <DPALACE.93Jan8071716@sunland.gsfc.nasa.gov> <1993Jan8.162306.26127@wuecl.wustl.edu> <1993Jan8.194953.19631@rambo.atlanta.dg.com>
   Distribution: na
   Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1993 01:07:37 GMT
   Lines: 26

[   After several years, the oil in many types of commercially available modeling
[   clay begins to separate.  The remaining solid gets harder, crumbly, and
[   lighter.  What's worse, the leaking oil can really damage a finish. 

  I don't know what commercial modeling clay is being talked about
here, but I haven't experienced this problem. For the last umpteen
years I have been buying my modeling clay for Toys R Us. It is made
for children and I doubt that any harmful oils are used to make it.
One box last forever. The only change that I have noticed is that it
get harder with age , and I have yet to have a finish ruined.

Dick IPMS# 1478


--
Dick Palace         Goddard Space Flight Center      (301) 286-9464

dpalace@sunland.gsfc.nasa.gov
From: matt@waikato.ac.nz
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: Alpha Jet Markings
Date: 11 Jan 93 09:23:06 +1300
Organization: University of Waikato, Hamilton, New Zealand

Hi folks,
  I have an Airfix Alpha Jet kit that I'd like to do in something other than
markings for a European country.  Several African countries use them, such as 
the Ivory Coast (or whatever they call themselves now) and Nigeria.  Does 
anybody know of decals for an African Alpha Jet?

Matt
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: chrisa@fc.hp.com
 (Chris Anderson)
Subject: Re: ballast - what to use?
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 20:22:42 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Fort Collins Site
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.1 PL6]

Andrew Lavigne (alavigne@bmerh930.bnr.ca) wrote:
: 
: Does anyone have good tips on what kind of ballast to use in models (eg-
: in the nose of an airplane fuselage)?   I know about lead;  is there anything
: else available as well?
: 
: Any hints appreciated...
: 
: Andrew
: alavigne@bnr.ca

You may already know about fishing weights.  They are some kind of lead alloy I
think.  Anyway,  they  work  great  and you can  get  them in  different  sizes
depending  on your use.  I like to attach  them  inside the model  with  2-part
epoxy,  though I have used hot glue (make sure the weight is securely  attached
before the glue cools down).

Chris Anderson
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: anonymous@eagle.lerc.nasa.gov  (Charlie Carey)
Subject: Re: Paint age
Nntp-Software: PC/TCP NNTP
Reply-To: carey@moefine.lerc.nasa.gov
Organization: NASA/LeRC
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 13:37:33

In article <1hnvboINNkfe@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> aq479@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Paul E. Sincaglia) writes:

    
    I have been out of modeling for some time and have recently
    re-entered the hobby.  I have begun going through my old
    "shit" (some of it is just that) including allot of paint.
    
    Is there any problem in using paint that is up to 7 yrs old?
    Some of the paint I have is Humbrol stuff that is at least that
    old.
    
    thanks
From: franceschi@pasadena-dc.bofa.com
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: Re: Paint age
Date: 4 Jan 93 08:05:50 PDT
Organization: Bank America Systems Engineering, Pasadena, CA

In article <1992Dec30.163406.6146@lmt.mn.org>, ChazL@county.lmt.mn.org (Chaz Larson) writes:
> In article <1hnvboINNkfe@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>, aq479@cleveland.Freenet.Edu 
> (Paul E. Sincaglia) writes:
>> 
>> Is there any problem in using paint that is up to 7 yrs old?
>> Some of the paint I have is Humbrol stuff that is at least that
>> old.

I have a bottle of yellow Floquil model train paint (lacquer) that is
25 years (or more) old and I still use it once in a while.


Fred Franceschi
From: e46brown@skyfox
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: Headlights??
Date: 11 JAN 93 17:58:17 GMT
Organization: University of Saskatchewan
NNTP-Posting-Host: sask.usask.ca

        I'm new to reading rec.models.scale, and I've got a question
for those of you who built car models.  Recently I completed a Fujimi
kit of a Honda CRX.  My problem is,...how does one go about making
the headlights appear more realistic.  At the time, I painted the
plastic on the body behind the clear plastic lense with plain old
silver enamel paint......with poor results.  Real headlights seem to
have an aluminum back too them, but most newer cars have this whiteish
look to them.  Next time I was going to try Bare-metal foil behind
the lense, but if anyone has got a better idea I'd like to hear it.



                                                        Geoff
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Geoff Brown     E46BROWN@usask.ca       University of Saskatchewan
                                        Canada
From: ChazL@county.lmt.mn.org (Chaz Larson)
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: Re: Acrylic paint: Opinions
Date: 4 Jan 93 18:49:57 GMT
Reply-To: ChazL@county.lmt.mn.org (Chaz Larson)
Organization: LaserMaster Corporation

In article <1i6v1dINN4db@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>, aq479@cleveland.Freenet.Edu 
(Paul E. Sincaglia) writes:
> In a previous post I asked about Tetors ne Model Master Acrylic
> line.  As I prefer using the water based paints, I would really
> like an assessment of all acrylic paints suitable for modeling
> rom all of you folks.
> 
> Which of the paints are the best and the worst and for what 
> reasons......etc.
> 
> Please post the replies, they will probably shed allot of light
> for all of the modelers who read this board.

I'm using both Tamiya and Testor's acrylics.

I prefer the Tamiya all-around.  It hand- and air-brushes very well [for my 
uses...of course, I'm no Mark Gustavson]; I can pour it straight out of the 
bottle into my Testor Pro airbrush and get great results.

I started buying some Testor paints for the wider color selection and for the 
FS compatibility [something I _never_ thought I'd care about].  I find that 
they airbrush really well, but are too thin to give good coverage with a 
brush in one coat.

I haven't used any of the other acrylics, and so can't comment on them.

chaz

..must think...bubble pipe will relax me and I think...
Xref: sparky rec.models.scale:802 alt.models:1413
From: ss@wpi.WPI.EDU (Scott Streeter)
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale,alt.models
Subject: Re: Vacuform kits (science fiction)
Date: 12 Jan 93 16:08:21
Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute, Worcester, MA 01609-2280
NNTP-Posting-Host: wpi.wpi.edu
In-reply-to: snoopy@crchh426.BNR.CA's message of Tue, 12 Jan 1993 18:48:20 GMT

>>>>> On Tue, 12 Jan 1993 18:48:20 GMT, snoopy@crchh426.BNR.CA (Antonio Tello) said:

snoopy> I am looking for catalogs or phone numbers or whatever to get
snoopy> either vacuform kits for new or old series or movies etc
snoopy> etc... or old science fiction kits. Any and all help would be
snoopy> appreciated.

Try either:

Lunar Models
5120 Grisham
Rowlett, TX 75088
(214) 475-4230

or

Star Tech
P.O. Box 456
Dunlop, TN 37327

Both places are EXPENSIVE....


--
 Scott Streeter                             Visit the Star Wars Archive at
 ss@wpi.wpi.edu                             wpi.wpi.edu       130.215.24.1
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale