HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: Andrew.Cohill@vtssi.vt.edu (Andrew Michael Cohill)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Tax Advice
Date: 23 Dec 92 22:09:46 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Fire in the Mountain
X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1.1d13
X-XXMessage-ID: <A75E4ED95101047C@thea.cc.vt.edu>
X-XXDate: Wed, 23 Dec 92 17:14:01 GMT

Some tips:

Try to have *some* income every year, even if your expenses wash it out 
profit-wise.  This shows the IRS that you are making a serious go of the 
business.

Show a profit some years, even if it is only a few bucks.  I sometimes do 
this by not claiming all the expenses that I could.

Don't try charging big expenses for several years and then claim the 
business did not work out.  They will come and get you for back taxes for 
all the years that they initially allowed the losses.

What they look for is a real intent to make money.  Don't get greedy if 
you don't really plan to push the business hard.  If the business does 
really take off and you start receiving regular income, there will be 
lots of opportunities to make deductions.

Andrew
From: lombardo@taurus.cs.nps.navy.mil
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Tuning up an old Craftsman Table Saw
Date: 23 Dec 92 18:04:54 GMT
Organization: Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey CA


Hi,
  I have a Craftsman 100 Table Saw that according to the Sears service
guy was built in 1958.  It has two problems that I would like to fix.  The
first I sort of did fix.  It has a 1HP beefy ass motor on it with shafts
on both ends.  The shaft on the pulley side was bent and made the pulley
wobble, so I took the motor off, reversed the direction of rotation and flipped
the motor over.  The pulley now runs true.  The only part of this I don't
like is now there are some large holes exposing the motor innards facing up
because the motor was flipped.  I'm not sure those pieces can somehow
interchange, so if anyone ones please let me know.  
  Well anyway - the second problem has to do with the blade shaft.  What
ever bent the motor shaft apparently bent this shaft too.  The pulley wobbles
slightly and the blade does too.  The wobble in the blade (note: new blade)
is about 10% of the blade thickness.  What can be done about this?  Should
the shaft and bearings be replaced?  A friend suggested removing the blade,
powering up the saw and with a file against the blade seat take off any
high spots.

Thanks in advance,
Chuck

 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Charles P. Lombardo			|           lombardo@cs.nps.navy.mil |
| Computer Science Department		|		 voice: 408-656-2102 |
| Naval Postgraduate School		|		 fax:   408-656-2814 |
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 22 Dec 1992 14:35:37 -0800
From:         RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM
Subject:      Re: How to fill holes for new lockset?

In article <01GSKM4DN04Y8Y4XL1@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM>,
RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM writes:
|> Bondow (auto boddy filler) works well in big voids and large
gaps becaus
|> it doesn't shrink. It's very strong and very hard (for a
filler) and sti
|> to wood very well.
|>
|>                         Ron Tye (all opinions my own)

If you choose this solution, do not wait until the bondo as
completely
hardened before working on it. The stuff becomes hard as a rock.
Let it set to a soft, cheesy consistency and clean the excess
with
coarse sand paper.

Daniel Ouellet, Research Associate
Pulp and Paper Centre, University of British Columbia
2385 East Mall, Vancouver, BC, Canada V6T 1Z4
---------------------------------------------------------------------

Good point Daniel; but, many auto body types use a cheez grater
file to work bondow before it's hardend becase it claugs sand
paper too quickly.

Your quite right, it's too hard to work by hand once it's
hardend; but, I think it responds very well to a belt sander.

                    Ron Tye (all opinions my own)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: smierch@fun.com (Edward Smierciak)
Subject: Re: "Rainforest Destruction Has Many Victi
Reply-To: smierch@fun.com
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 92 19:32:10 GMT

In article 20730@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com, billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson) writes:
>gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz) writes:
>: 
>: Remember the example of Brazilian rosewood.  By only sustainably grown
>: tropical hardwoods, or else use North American hardwoods like oak, maple,
>: walnut and cherry.
>
>In the case of Brazil - the rainforest is being cut at the rate of 0.5%
>per year. This is an easily sustainable level. The problem is the erosion
>that may occur - they don't seem to try to minimize it. Also, most of the
>cutting is for growing crops, not for the wood. Much of the wood is simply
>burned where it was cut.
>
>So, do you think we are doing any better in the US? I would argue that we
>are doing worse. Our hardwood forests are rapidly disappearing - much more
>quickly than most foreign countries.
>
>Bill

There are more trees east of the Mississippi today than there were in 1850,
and the number continues to increase.  And those trees are nearly all hardwoods.  
The reason for this is:

	1) huge tracts of land surrounding major cities were, 100 years
	   ago, cleared farmland that supplied those cities with fresh
	   meat, produce, and dairy products.  Around the turn of the 
	   century, they began to turn into wooded suburbs.

	2) tens of thousands of farms from Maine to Georgia have reverted
	   to forest land because trying to farm in the rocky/depleted/hilly
	   soil of the eastern U.S. just isn't competive with the economics
	   of farming in Iowa.  So the trees have returned.

The problem in this country is the clear-cutting of old-growth fir/pine/spruce
in the NW U.S. and in Alaska.


---

Ed Smierciak

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: How to get a square edge
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 23:55:13 GMT

carrd@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com writes
> I've run into this problem alot when dealing with long pieces of wood
> (> 5') and thought I'd ask the wisdom of the net.  The problem I refer to
> is getting a true edge on a board when the deflection of the warp is 
> only about 1/2 - 1 inch over the entire length.  The bed on my jointer
> (Jet 6") is too short to detect the curve, thus all I end up with is a 
> curve on a smaller width board.  

You should be able to successfully joint a 6' board on your jointer.
With a 1/32" depth of cut, it may take 32 or more passes to get rid
of a 1" edge curvature. A shorter bed may slow things down still more, but
you should be able to get it flat.

The first thing to look at is your technique. If the edge is concave, you
should be pressing down on the outfeed side as soon as you have enough wood
on the outfeed table. Each pass should remove material at the ends of the
board until they're reduced to be in line with the middle. If the edge is 
convex, then you should try to prevent the board from rotating slightly as
you're pushing it through the jointer; basically each pass will flatten the
middle a bit more until it's in line with the ends.

If improved technique doesn't help, then perhaps the jointer needs adjustment.
The infeed and outfeed tables need to be parallel to each other in both 
directions, as well as parallel to the cutterhead. The outfeed table should be 
flush with the peak of the knives (either adjust the table or adjust the 
knives). If the outfeed table is too low (knives too high), you'll get a curved
edge, or get some snipe at the very end of the pass. If the table is too high,
the wood will bump into it.


> Anyone come up with a slick way around this problem?

If you have a tablesaw, you can build a long sliding table jig for it.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mlinda@novell.com (M'Linda Taylor)
Subject: Quilting Frame
Keywords: Plans for??? 
Organization: Novell Inc., Austin, TX.
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1992 21:25:52 GMT

Would someone be so kind as to let me know of a source for
plans for a quilting frame?  I'd like something similar to
one that Roy Underhill did on one of his shows (of course
it was on a day that I was out of blank tape for the vcr).

THANKS!!!!!


M'Linda
************************************************
*           - Lonestar -                       *
*Internet: mlinda@novell.COM                   *
*UUCP: {ames,sun,apple,amdahl}!novell!mlinda   *
************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: c2k@ham.slc.mentorg.com (Carl Ketcham)
Subject: Re: Comments on Delta 16" Band Saw  (28-560) please
Date: 28 Dec 92 15:58:31
	<1992Dec22.230428.11882@cliff.se.hou.compaq.com>
Organization: /slc/home/c2k/.organization

In article <1992Dec22.230428.11882@cliff.se.hou.compaq.com> stevep@sparky.se.hou.compaq.com (Steve Pinn) writes:

   Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: EMDJJ@CUNYVM.BITNET
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Problem with Ryobi Belt Sander
Date: 27 Dec 92 18:10:34 GMT
Organization: City University of New York/ University Computer Center

I have a Ryobi 3"x21" belt sander (model# BE-321)which is developing an
annoying problem.  Lately, the belts start moving off (not completely) the
the sander when in use.  I've tried new belts, but they do the same thing.
Has anyone had this problem?  I would like to hear from you.
Daniel Schlissel
From: POSTMASTER@IPFWVM.BITNET (Undetermined origin c/o Postmaster)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: (no subject given)
Date: 28 Dec 92 15:07:42 GMT
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Santa
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mehrpuya@rtsg.mot.com (Djamschid Mehrpuyan)
Subject: Bosch 1613EVS Plunge router
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 19:39:13 GMT


Do any of you have the Bosch 1613EVS Plunge Router (2HP) ?

For those of you who do, could you please send me some comments
on this router ?
Also, what are largest size router bits that can be used with
this particular router ?

     -DJ

From: cola@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (Ken Colasuonno)
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 19:04:50 GMT
Subject: Re: coloured stains for kids blocks
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

> I would highly recommend that you keep this stuff away from kid's toys!  I
> don't know of alternatives, but from a toxicology point of view, plastic
> (or polyurethane) finishes are infinitely safer.

From the latest Highland Hardware catalog (Fall 92/Winter 93):

Section on ClearWater Water-Based Aniline Dye Gels... (pg29) "These
new stains are a perfect complement to our line of water-based,
non-toxic finishing products".  And in another section on "ARTI"
Aniline Toymakers Dyes... (pg35) "These completely safe and non-toxic
dyes offer eight bright, clear colors suitable for use on young
childrens toys and furninture".

Sounds like it is OK to use them on childrens toys.  The dye technique
seems much better than paint as the dye colors the wood and the paint
is a surface coat that can come off when small one-year-olds start to
imitate a beaver and gnaw on them.

I plan on ordering the assortment of "PaintBox Colors" and try them
out on some puzzles I made with my new scroll saw (thanks Santa!).

Ken
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: joe@bnlux1.bnl.gov (joseph christian)
Subject: Quality and or Value of Hand Planes
Keywords: hand planes bailey quality value
Organization: Brookhaven National Laboratory, Upton, NY 11973
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 15:28:15 GMT



I recently purcased some old hand planes and would like to find out
their quality and or value. Two of them are Baily planes and one I
can not make out the whole name. I can make out the last three letters
as ENT. The first four are hard but look like they may be BARG. Was
there ever a tool company by the name BARGENT?

The "BARGENT" is a 24" X 3" plane. One of the Bailey planes is 
22" X 3" (No. 7). The other Bailey is a 9" (No. 4) smoothing plane 
Both Bailey's have the following info: PAT'D MAR-25-02 AUG-19-02,
cap irons patented in 1867 by Bailey, and stanley patented frogs.


Thanxs in advance.
Joe

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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Wed, 23 Dec 1992 09:14:22 -0800
From:         RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM
Subject:      Re: Tax Advice

Find your self a good tax person (Enroled Agents are usualy better at taxes
than CPA's and cost less too) as soon as you can. He will save you a
bundel of money, answer all your questions and keep your chestnuts out of
the fire with the IRS.

                        Ron Tye (all opinions my own)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ameres@ithaca.cat.rpi.edu (Eric Ameres)
Subject: Re: Safest way to use radial arm saw?
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 16:56:23 GMT

From article #16782  clarke@acheron.uucp (Ed Clarke) writes

>I don't think that you CAN put a guard on a wobble dado on a Sears
>saw.  You have to run guardless.

Why can't you?  I have a DeWalt and am having problems trying to set
up myself due to the width of the wobble dado in conjunction with the
inner arbor flange (between motor and blade) .  Is this the same
problem?  I'm gonna check out the DeWalt / B&D center to see what I
can do though before resorting to running guardless.  Although I've
never bumped into a guard yet, I'd hate to have it happen (especially
with the dado).

-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Eric Ameres,  Software Engineer                 ameres@cat.rpi.edu
New York State Center for Advanced Technology in Automation & Robotics
Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute - CII 8313, Troy, NY 12180-3590
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 22 Dec 1992 08:23:58 -0800
From:         RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM
Subject:      Re: Louvered shutters

Woodsmith had an artical on building loverd doors some time ago. It
didn't look too easy. I'll dig up the artical & post the details later.

                        Ron Tye (all opinions my own)
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Thu, 31 Dec 1992 16:39:01 -0500
From:         "Wile E. Coyote" <BBHULSEY@LIFE.UAMS.EDU>
Subject:      Re: sanding/cabinets

Greetings Eric!

(I've edited your message since I'm only replying to part of it)

>Latest in the saga of Eric and his kitchen cabinets.  The cases for
>the uppers are all done and one coat of (lacquer) sanding sealer has
>been applied.  Current thought is to finish the upper cases and hang
>them to get them out of the way (note I am assuming that hanging the
>doors with them in place won't be a big deal, let me know if you know
>otherwise, I'm using stanley #55 knife hinges).
...
>Anyway, I'm now facing the resanding of all these beauties and am
>thinking of buying one of those little DeWalt (made in the USA) palm
>finishing sanders.  Anyone have any experiences with these guys?  I'm
>using my PC EVS random orbit for the bulk of the work, but inside
>corners are a pain with the 6" round pad (otherwise I HIGHLY recommend
>this sander (even in place of a belt sander, unless you have a
>comfortable amount of cash to get both, or already have X finishing
>sanders :^> )).

Ryobi now markets a small triangular-head sander for getting into tight
places.  It appears to be similar to the Fein oscillating sander, but I bet
it's quite a bit cheaper.  I don't have information about pricing, etc., but I
recently saw an ad in Family Handyman magazine, of all places.  If you like, I
can get you the 800 number for Ryobi to find a dealer in your area.

>Also, in preparing the oak veneer plywood I sanded with a medium
>(~120) then went to a fine (~150).  Now after applying the sealer
>should I skip right to the fine?  On my test piece it look pretty
>good.  I like the semi-open grain effect.  Any grit progression
>advice?  Do I need to apply a second coat of sealer?  My plan with the
>lacquer was to spray about 6 coats using steel wool between the 3rd
>and 4th and 5th and 6th.  And thoughts?

I would have gone to 220 grit before applying the sealer, probably,
considering the trouble you appear to be getting ready to go through with 6
coats of lacquer.  I also really recommend the 3M abrasive pads as opposed to
steel wool.  They have a pad corresponding to each grade of steel wool, if I'm
not mistaken, and a finer-than-0000 polishing pad.  Don't know about the other
stuff you asked about, though.

>Thanks as always.  Hope some of my cabinet ramblings are useful to
>someone out there.

Hope mine are too.  Happy new year!

.......
:  o/ : Bruce Hulsey
: <|  : Univ. of Arkansas for Medical Sciences
: / > : internet: bbhulsey@life.uams.edu
:.....: bitnet:   bbhulsey@uams
From: peper@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (Mike Peper)
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 01:55:07 GMT
Subject: Re: Re: Power Miter Box Safety Warning (plus flame warnings)
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
From: parnass@cbnewse.cb.att.com (Bob Parnass, AJ9S)
Subject: Re: Safest Way to use A Radial Arm Saw
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories, Naperville, IL
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1992 14:42:52 GMT
Summary: tip for crosscutting with minimal (or no) splintering on RAS

In article <1992Dec23.205315.3449@sco.COM>, dick@sco.COM (Dick Bryer) writes:
	> ...On the topic of pushing vs pulling:
	> I normally pull the saw toward me thru the work....

On my Delta 10" RAS, I pull the saw toward me through the work,
then turn the saw OFF.  I DO NOT push the spinning blade back
through the cut wood.

After the blade stops completely, I remove the 2 cut pieces
of wood and push the saw back home.

I found this method is much less likely to splinter the wood,
as I observed that splintering is often produced (after the board	
has already been cut) while pushing the spinning blade back home.

Pine is more likely to splinter than oak, maple, or walnut, so
I put a strip of masking tape on pine boards where I expect the
blade to cut.  That prevents splintering.

BTW, I use a Freud LU84 carbide combination blade.
-- 
==============================================================================
Bob Parnass, AJ9S  -  AT&T Bell Labs  -  parnass@ihlpm.att.com - (708)979-5414
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 22 Dec 1992 14:16:56 EDT
From:         Carty ELlis <CELLIS@BROCKVMA.BITNET>
Subject:      Moulders, shapers, routers

What is the actual definition on the differences between moulders, shapers
and routers?  Curiosity killed the cat is the biggest reason for this question,
but I am also building a porch (to be screend in - no half-walls or glass)
and I am trying to see if it is cheaper to make my own tounge and groove
flooring (14 feet by 18 feet) or get it pre-done?  In chasing this I ran
into what is difference between the three devices?  I have a handheld router,
but I also have a Shopsmith 510 that I could get a moulder or shaper for.
Or even a router chuck for the Drill press.

***********************************************************************
Carlton Ellis                  *   BITNET CELLIS@BROCKVMA
Senior Programmer/Analyst      *
Administrative Computing       *
State University of New York   *
College at Brockport           *
***********************************************************************
From: carrd@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: How to get a square edge
Date: 21 Dec 92 12:37:36 EST


I've run into this problem alot when dealing with long pieces of wood
(> 5') and thought I'd ask the wisdom of the net.  The problem I refer to
is getting a true edge on a board when the deflection of the warp is 
only about 1/2 - 1 inch over the entire length.  The bed on my jointer
(Jet 6") is too short to detect the curve, thus all I end up with is a 
curve on a smaller width board.  

Anyone come up with a slick way around this problem?

Thanks in advance.

Dave


   
      
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: scot@fc.hp.com (Scot Heath)
Subject: Re: WARNING
Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1993 21:35:21 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Fort Collins Site
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.8 PL6]

Donald Bowen (donb@crash.cts.com) wrote:
: 
:         I guess it is time for another warning for all to be careful. 
: I am typing this without the use of three fingers on the left hand
: due to an accident.  The cause of the accident was none other than
: brain fade, short circuiting, or just plain stupidity.  Luckily
: there is no permanate damage, all I did was remove several chunks
: of skin off the tops of the fingers, it could have been much worse.

Stuff Deleted.

:         3.        I did not have good lighting in the shop.  This weekend
:           I am going to Home Depot to buy 2 of those $9 dual tube
:           fixtures.  I may even buy a third.
: 
: 	Donb

Don,

Thanks for your honesty and your reminder that safety is our utmost
personal responsibility.  My opinion is that you can't have enough light.
I have 3 of the 2 bulb 4' fixtures in my cramped 10'x14' work room and I
have 60watt bulbs in those moveable arm drafting light fixtures on my mill
and my band saw due to their shape and the need for lots of light.

Here's hoping the rest of '93 goes better for you.

-Scot
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: [Frank Bateman USAEPG: RE: microwave wood?]
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1992 18:13:47 GMT

Steve Pinn writes
> I use a similiar method for biscuits.  In Houston our humidity levels are 
> high that biscuits tend to swell on their own.  I microwave a handful
> on high for about a minute and the work like a champ. - Steve

In his "Biscuit Joiner Handbook", Hugh Foster claims that microwaving
biscuits to dry them out makes them more brittle.

He says that after microwaving he was able to snap a biscuit in his
fingers, which he wasn't able to do before. Now, I've been able to snap
biscuits fresh out of the box (they snap easily if you bend them along
the grain), and the book is about the worst woodworking book I own, so
perhaps there's nothing to this.

Anyone performed a strength test of biscuits before/after microwaving?

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1992 17:37:52 GMT
Subject: Re: re: Jointer vs Planer - Thanks
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server