HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: james@koko.csustan.edu (Jonas Grumpy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Strange Behavior
Date: 22 Dec 92 02:31:34 GMT
Organization: CSU Stanislaus

In article <smclane-211292143628@260-3l-mac7a.wdl.loral.com> smclane@wdl1.wdl.loral.com (Sterling McLane) writes:
>Today I witnessed something strange I was wondering if anyone might have a
>clue as to what caused it.  I was behind an early '80s Capri (Mustang
>based) and when it started away from the stopsign, the rear end seemed to
>wiggle a bit and shift about 4 inches to the left.  Edge of left rear tire
>was beyond bodywork, right rear tire moved toward center of car. The body
>of the car seemed to be going down the road straight - not dog-tracking. 
>When the car got up to speed and stopped accelerating, rear end moved back
>over to where it was centered relative to the body.  Clearly something was
>wrong.  Anyone out there have any idea what it could be? 


Its called Active Suspension ala FORD!!! In other words the dang
bushings for the diagonal upper control arms probably fell apart.
Its really a quite useless feature, but since its standard equipment
most people dont complain too much.
-- 
C MYSIG  ASIG4U 1RADSIG 2BADSIG SIG U 2     U R SIG   1SIGDOG    ADOTSIG
 				The above advice is not to be taken seriously!
From: tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu (Terry Quinn)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Limited-Slip differentials??
Date: 31 Dec 1992 12:48:49 -0600
Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway
Reply-To: tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu



> Hello---Could someone please elaborate on the advantages of a limited-slip
> differential?  What about its internals?  How does it differ from a
> usual differential?  
 
Limited slip differentials use different mechanical approaches, 
but most use a clutch and spring mechanism to apply a slight 
torque that tends to resist the differentiating action (relative 
speed between the two axles).  As the input torque to the 
differential increases, the separating force from the differential 
pinion/side gear mesh tends to increase the face load on this 
clutch, increasing its capacity. 
 
As you know, on a turn the two tires on the same end of the car 
must travel at different speeds or the car will fight the turn and 
there will be excessive tire wear.  A conventional "open" 
differential equalizes torque to each wheel and allows them to 
find their own speed.  On a limited slip unit, in a normal turn, 
where the input torque is low, the differential clutch slips, 
allowing one tire to rotate faster than the other. 
 
In other situations however, such as during hard acceleration, the 
input torque is greater, and hence the differential clutch 
capacity increases.  This further restricts the relative motion 
between the two axles, maintaining similar speeds for both tires, 
even if there is a significant difference in torque on the two 
sides.  This is obviously helpful in high performance cars to 
maximize traction.  It is also somewhat beneficial on any car 
which experiences slippage on one side or the other (icy patches).  
In the latter case, it is sometimes necessary to partially apply 
the parking brake to develop enough load on the differential to 
activate its limited slip characteristics and get you out of the 
stuck spot. 
 

--
                                    Terry Quinn
                                     Germantown Hills, IL
                                      tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu
from Compuserve . . .                  >INTERNET: tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: djr48312@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Dennis Robinson)
Subject: READ THIS: HELP MUSTANG GT WONT START
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 20:57:42 GMT


Today I was driving along in my used '89 mustang GT and it shut off.  This
was after I was reaching under the seat for something and ended up with
a strange plastic cap in my hand.  As soon as I noticed I had this cap in
my hand the engine stuttered and eventually stopped.  I pulled the car over
to the side and tried to start it.  The starter turned with its usual vigor,
also the headlamps and stereo worked fine.  So I looked under the seat
(driver side front) and saw some device hooked up to 3 wires.  The cap fit
onto this device.  WIthout the "cap" the device looked like a bunch of metal
plates and had a small spring along the side of it.  There was a black mark
as if it had been shorted.  I tried to reset the fuel shut off also but that
was not the problem.  Now the car sits there and will crank but not connect.
Any help will be appreciated.

Dennnis J Robinson

Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:17171 alt.autos.rod-n-custom:351
From: jhaines@eniac.seas.upenn.edu (Jason Haines)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,alt.autos.rod-n-custom
Subject: roll cage/bar and harness needed
Date: 28 Dec 92 07:54:59 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Organization: University of Pennsylvania


	I need to purchase a roll cage or at least a roll bar
for my 'Datsun 510.'  I am therefore looking for used or 
unused ones for sale.  I am also trying to find a place
near Philadelphia, PA that might be able to build or sell/install
a roll bar/cage for a good price.  I also need a multi-point
harness (4, 5, or 6).  I am looking towards using a Cam-Lok type
harness for the driver seat because the car will also be used on
a daily basis (and it only has lap belts right now) while I
will probably only get latch type belts for the passenger.
Anyone have any they want to sell or know where to get them at a good
price?


thanks


------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jason R. Haines		     University of Pennsylvania (SEAS & Wharton)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
   Red '90 Mustang LX 5.0    /     Blue '71 Rotary Powered Datsun 510
(Recycle your toner cartridges)	           (^^^^^FOR SALE^^^^^)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
 	 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: southern@sunny.NoSubdomain.NoDomain (Lawrence Buja)
Subject: Re: Exhaust pipe - how to remove?
Reply-To: southern@ncar.ucar.edu
Organization: National Center for Atmospheric Research
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 19:58:30 GMT

Skinny Puppy <htunca@ncsa.uiuc.edu> writes:
>This weekend I was trying to remove the exhaust pipe from the
>muffler on a 91 Dodge Caravan.  I was able to remove the U clamp
>along with the exhaust body mounts, however when I tried to
>actually remove the pipe from the muffler it just wouldn't
>move.  It looks like corrosion might be causing this.  What are
>the methods or tools used to remove a corroded exhaust
>pipe?  Any help is appreciated.

If you can't loosen the pipe by heating it with a propane torch, it
becomes an obvious job for the tactical nuclear weapon of auto repair; 
a fiber cutting disk driven by a electric drill.

This is the weekend mechanics substitute for a gas cutting torch.

Any hardware store should have the disks (I believe there are both metal
and masonary cutting disks).  You might need to buy an adapter to mount
it on a drill (assuming you have a drill you can use).  Once you get
going, the noise and sparks can be impressive.  But, there is little on
an automobile that one of these can't eventually reduce to scrap.

A Sawzall (the TNW of home repair) with a metal cutting blade might do
the trick for you too.

Standard cautions apply: Use safety glasses and ear plugs, keep children
and other flammables away and a fire extinguisher at hand.

Have fun.....

/\      Lawrence Buja           Climate and Global Dynamics Division
  \_][  southern@ncar.ucar.edu  National Center for Atmospheric Research
      \_________________________Boulder,_Colorado___80307-3000__________



>____________________         __           ____________________
>\_____________      \       /_ \         /      _____________/ 
> \_____________      \_______/  \_______/      _____________/
>  \_________________________      _________________________/ 
>                           /______\
>   Han Tunca
>   National Center for Supercomputing Applications
>   htunca@ncsa.uiuc.edu

Such a big .sig.....
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sharen@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com (Sharen A. Rund)
Subject: Re: How do you remove frozen, stripped screws?
Organization: Lockheed Missiles and Space Co.
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 92 21:56:59 GMT

In article <1gljrfINNdk6@gap.caltech.edu> hacker@cco.caltech.edu (Jonathan Bruce Hacker) writes:
>csk@wdl50.wdl.loral.com (Chuck Kuczaj) writes:
>
>>I've tried penetrating oil, heat, hammers, and other things, but the
>>basic problem is still the fact that one can't exert enough force on
>>a stripped screw.  Is there any kind of special tool, which when
>>"clamped-on" to the exposed screw head, allows for the exertion of much
>>greater torque?  Obviously, I've tried using the "vice-grip method".
>>What I'm looking for is a more optimal solution.
>
>If there is anything left of the original screw head, an impact screw
>driver will work wonders.
>

and if that doesn't work, you can carefully drill down the center of 
the frozen/stripped screw, insert a reverse thread screw and as it tightens
up it should draw the screw out

-- 
________________       __        ________________   "They that can give up
\_________      \     /_ \      /      _________/  essential liberty to 
 \_________      \_____/  \____/      _________/  obtain temporary safety
  \___________________      __________________/  deserve neither liberty 
                     /______\                   nor safety."  
ALL disclaimers apply ....                           --Benjamin Franklin
From: jhaines@eniac.seas.upenn.edu (Jason Haines)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Mustang GT EPA legal perfromance maximized
Date: 27 Dec 92 04:52:50 GMT
Organization: University of Pennsylvania

In article <4032.88.uupcb@chaos.lrk.ar.us> dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) writes:
>
>->      The rating of the T-5 depends on the type you get -
>
> The torque rating on the T5 depends on first gear.  The Chevy S10
>pickup is the shortest and weakest, the ones in the Camaro and Mustang
>are the tallest and strongest.
>
	Actually, a stronger (heavier duty) version than found in the
stock Mustang 302 (I usually say 5.0 but it really is a 302 - lets get real).
Ford sells it as the Heavy Duty (oops - World Class?) T-5.  It also
has different gearing - an even taller 1st gear - and is rated at a
slightly highe torque capability.
	I didn't know that had come out with a redesign of it though -
anybody know what changes they made? 


BTW - I didn't know the S10 used the T-5 (learn something every
day 8-)


------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jason R. Haines		     University of Pennsylvania (SEAS & Wharton)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
   Red '90 Mustang LX 5.0    /     Blue '71 Rotary Powered Datsun 510
(Recycle your toner cartridges)	           (^^^^^FOR SALE^^^^^)
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:17333 rec.autos:30849 rec.autos.driving:7387 rec.autos.sport:13225
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos,rec.autos.driving,rec.autos.sport
Distribution: world
From: Wayne_Redman@magicbb.uucp
Organization: MAGIC - Macintosh Awareness Group In Canada
Date: Fri, 01 Jan 1993 14:08:11 EST
Subject: Stock Cars

I need help buuilding a stock car actually I want to drive stockcar but I don't
know how to get in it.  I would love if Darrel Waltrip or (Richard Petty is my
hero) or Rusty Wallace or somebody would give me the chance to race and turn a
few laps to prove myself worthy.  Anyone out there listening or can help me
out, I don't even have to run laps, I JUST WANT TO LEARN!!!!!!

Thanks.

PS I really don't know ow to use the net but I'm on Magic Systems and can be reached
here.  Oh well I hope someone can figure it out and help me out.
From: tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu (Terry Quinn)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: RE: Water Vapor
Date: 23 Dec 1992 22:02:54 -0600
Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway
Reply-To: tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu



> Subject: Water Vapor
> Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
> Date: Tue Dec 22 14:22:13 1992
> 
> White smoke comes out of the tail pipe evey time I start up
> my car in a cold morning.  I've been hearing this is the
> vapor of water which condense at the engine over night.
> Are there any explanation for this?
 
I had a 1984 Pontiac Trans Am that also gave off white smoke on 
startup.  Eventually I found that the carburetor float bowl was 
porous, and when the engine was shut off, fuel would leak through 
and pool in the intake manifold.
 

--
                                    Terry Quinn
                                     Germantown Hills, IL
                                      tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu
from Compuserve . . .                  >INTERNET: tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dhepner@cup.hp.com (Dan Hepner)
Subject: Re: Cummins
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 21:20:12 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1scd1 PL4

From: koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz)

>Ack, a non-turbocharged D-8?!?  Must be a virtual antique;

Let's just say it had a cable blade, no hydraulic pump in sight. 

Dan Hepner
From: ah335@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Richard Banks)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: cleaning solvents
Date: 3 Jan 1993 03:15:59 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: ah335@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Richard Banks)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc4.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) says:

> There are, so far as I know, no local environmental restrictions on
>solvents.

Where do you live?  Whereever it is, I'm sure its not very easy for
an average citizen to walk into a chemical supplier and some benzene
and nitrotoulene, or similar solvents.  I know these probably aren't
the ones you were refering to though.
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:17307 rec.autos:30803
From: davet@ksr.com (Dave Teichholtz)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
Subject: 1982 Nissan Sentra owners manual for free
Date: 31 Dec 92 09:32:36 EST
Organization: Kendall Square Research, Waltham, MA


I have a owners manual for a 1982 Nissan Sentra if anyone wants it.  I will 
mail it if you want it and are not local.

-David
--
============================================================================
David Teichholtz                 Kendall Square Research 
davet@ksr.com                    170 Tracer Lane, 
(617) 895-9466                   Waltham Mass. 02154-1379

Women think men will change after marriage.  Men think women won't.
They're both wrong
From: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Will camber adjustment af
Date: 31 Dec 92 16:19:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Ye Olde Bailey BBS - Houston, TX - 713-520-1569
Reply-To: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 


   >>>Subject: Will camber adjustment affect the toe-in in an Audi 85 5000s?
   >>>Date: 29 Dec 1992 23:19:31 -0800
   >>>Message-ID: <1hrii3INNl4l@sumax.seattleu.edu>

AKC>>>Will the toe-in be affected if I only adjust the camber only(for an 85 Au
   >>>5000s)? If the answer is 'yes' then why?

AKC>>>Anthony.

Yes. The tie rods are fixed to the spindle. When you change camber you
increase or decrease the lean of the spindle. So the toe will spread out
or in depending on which way you move camber.
You can change CASTER without changing toe on most cars.
                                                        Don


 * SLMR 2.1a * I put spot remover on my dog....Spots gone!
                                                                                      
----
+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Ye Olde Bailey BBS   713-520-1569 (V.32bis) 713-520-9566 (V.32bis)     |
|   Houston,Texas          yob.sccsi.com       Home of alt.cosuard       |
+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: Wei.Xiao@launchpad.unc.edu (Wei Xiao)
Subject: test
Organization: University of North Carolina Extended Bulletin Board Service
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1992 20:44:18 GMT

This is only a test. I will be right back.
--
   The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the University of
     North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Campus Office for Information
        Technology, or the Experimental Bulletin Board Service.
           internet:  laUNChpad.unc.edu or 152.2.22.80
From: vbreault@rinhp750.gmr.com (Val Breault)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Water Vapor
Date: 23 Dec 92 15:37:27 GMT
Organization: General Motors Research Labs
In-reply-to: to@teecs.UUCP's message of 22 Dec 92 19:22:13 GMT

In article <79550005@teecs.UUCP> to@teecs.UUCP (Norman To) writes:

   White smoke comes out of the tail pipe evey time I start up
   my car in a cold morning.  I've been hearing this is the
   vapor of water which condense at the engine over night.
   Are there any explanation for this?

Water vapor is a normal byproduct of combustion.  When the air 
is cool enough, you can watch it condense as it comes out of
the tail pipe.  This is a very normal thing up here in the 
frozen northland.
--
-val-

Val Breault - GM Research - vbreault@gmr.com - N8OEF            \      /|
Instrumentation dept., 30500 Mound Rd., Warren, MI 48090-9055    \    / |
The opinions expressed by the author do not necessarily reflect   \  /__|
those of GMR or those of the General Motors Corporation.           \/   |___
 

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: acuff@CAMIS.Stanford.EDU (Richard Acuff)
Subject: Re: 100 000 miles at redline
Organization: Stanford University, California, USA
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 16:55:49 GMT

choy@skorpio.usask.ca (I am a terminator.) writes:

>A BMW ad claims their car (or was it just the engine?) was driven for
>at redline 100 000 miles straight. The engine showed no signs of wear.
>How does this compare to other cars? How does this compare to airliners?

Given the low redline of recent BMW engines, this is probably less
impressive than it seems.

	-- Rich
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dhepner@cup.hp.com (Dan Hepner)
Subject: Re: All-Wheel Drive/4x4 Questions.
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 21:19:13 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1scd1 PL4

From: dcwst8+@pitt.edu (David C Winters)

>     This post's about all-wheel drive and four-wheel drive.  First of
>all, are they the same?  I've already heard:
>        a.  they're two different names for the same thing.

How about, they're arbitrary, and ill defined names for systems which
can power all of the four wheels.

>     I've also heard some opinions that assume that AWD and 4x4 are
>_not_ the same thing; the thing is, they are judged under two different
>yardsticks.
>David Winters

There _are_ two categories of 4WD: full time, and part time.  Full time
can be used on dry pavement, part time must be used in 2WD on dry
pavement.  The chief difference is that full time has some kind
of differential in the transfer case to allow the small, naturally
occurring differences in speed between the front and rear to
be dissipated.

Serious 4WD (which maybe AWD is most commonly used as "NOT serious
4WD") mechanisms all have some way to lock that "center diff".  
Without this ability, a single wheel with low traction will
determine the torque delivered to the other three wheels.  Not
good for serious 4WD.  Some modern systems use a "viscous coupling",
a magic material which is nominally a liquid but solidifies in
the presence of significant center slippage.  These couplers are
not used with high torque engines (unfortunately, as they sound
wonderful).

Dan Hepner
From: ninja@willard.UUCP (Sonic Druid)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: photo radar deflector ????
Date: 20 Dec 92 23:45:57 GMT
Organization: Willard's House BBS, Atlanta, GA -- +1 (404) 664 8814


 
  I'm looking for information on Photo-radar deflectors for
license plates.....or any information on Photo-radar deflectors...
 

-- 
ninja@willard.UUCP (Sonic Druid)
gatech!vdbsan!willard!ninja
emory!uumind!willard!ninja
Willard's House BBS, Atlanta, GA -- +1 (404) 664 8814
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: keith@balrog.dseg.ti.com (Keith A. Schauer)
Subject: Re: Nissan Maxima Transmission
Organization: Texas Instruments Information Technology Group
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1992 22:06:22 GMT

In article <9212280134.aa14948@Bonnie.ics.uci.edu> dpark@Bonnie.ICS.UCI.EDU writes:
>
>I own a 1987 Nissan Maxima with 87000 miles.  When my engine is cold(usually morning), the automatic transmission does not shift to third gear.  It is only after about a mile later when the car is warmed up that it finally shifts to third and fourth gears.  After the initial difficult shift, the car shifts to the third and fourth gears without any difficulty.
>
>Is this something to be concerned about? Or is this common among older transmissions and something I should live with?
>
	I don't know alot about automatics, but my Maxima (87 75K) is the same
	way.  It doesn't take a mile to warm up, but may take a couple of
	blocks to get into 3rd.  

	On the same subject, my Maxima has hard shifts at low to moderate
	acceleration.  Especially 'coasting' from 1st to 2nd.  I expect
	I will be needing some type of tranny work, but can anyone give me
	some ideas on what and how much ($$)?  It's a 4speed overdrive with
	electronic torque converter lock-up.

	Thanks.

-- 
Keith Schauer		Texas Instruments	Plain O, Texas
80 CB900 Custom		
DoD #0901		In an insane society, the sane man must appear insane.
			My company disavows any knowledge of my actions.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: markn@ssd.comm.mot.com (Mark Nowak)
Subject: Need help with resisting shift lever
Organization: Motorola
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1992 13:49:16 GMT

I drive a manual transmission '87 Chevy Nova with 104,000 miles on it.
I'm still on the original clutch, and it's not slipping (seems fine).
In the past month, it's been getting harder to shift between gears.
It used to be a lot smoother, but now I can feel resistance and hear
the shift a lot more.  It's usually worse when it's cold when I'm
just starting the car and gets a little better as the car warms up.
The clutch is hydraulic, but the fluid level is fine (I've checked the
level and pumping the clutch doesn'y help at all.  I've had the manual
transmission fluid replaced and that had no effect as well. 

Any ideas would very much be appreciated.  I'm afraid that if I take the
car in they'll make up something complicated (and expensive) up when it
might be something easily fixed.  If you have any ideas, please let me
know.  Thanks.
-- 
Mark Nowak                          | By means of the easy and the simple we
Motorola, Inc.                      | grasp the laws of the whole world.  When
Chicago, Illinois                   | the laws of the whole world are grasped,
INTERNET: markn@ssd.comm.mot.com    | therein lies perfection. - I Ching
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: zintel@mdd.comm.mot.com (Mike Zintel)
Subject: Re: Madness due to carb backfire
Organization: Motorola, Mobile Data Division - Seattle, WA
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 23:55:57 GMT

In article <725573189.AA00000@blkcat.UUCP> Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory) writes:
> MZ> The result of this is a beautifully working engine except for this 
> MZ> !@#~$%^&*
> MZ> carb pop. I am running out of ideas (and money). Any suggestions would 
> MZ> be
> MZ> appreciated.
>
>Can you set it to run a little richer?

The problem occurs just as the carb leaves the idle circuit and goes onto the
main circuit. If I nail it (I assume the power enrichment circuit cuts in)
it doesn't pop. I cannot enrich the main circuit. I have already increased the
stroke of the accelerator pump. If this is the correct problem area, what 
could be wrong with the carb that I missed rebuilding it (twice)?

BTW, thanks to the folks that suggested a timing chain problem. I have gears.

:-(


-- 

Mike Zintel		zintel@mdd.comm.mot.com
Motorola Mobile Data
Bothell, WA