HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: pharvey@mipos3.intel.com (Paul Harvey)
Subject: Re: huckleberry & redbud propagation
Organization: Intel Corporation, Santa Clara, CA USA
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 22:20:06 GMT

In article <1992Aug17.211324.17670@overload.lbl.gov> 
usenet@overload.lbl.gov writes:
>Anyone succesfully propagated Huckleberry (Vaccinium Ovatum, I think,
>the one with pea-size blue berries)? I've tried cuttings in water &
>perlite, using rooting hormone, cuttings from spring & early summer,
>raising the humdity with plastic bags, nothing works. The cuttings seem
>to live for months, but never root.

Yea, I get about 100% takes. I use flowerless tip cuttings of new growth
and old growth any time of year, doesn't seem to matter. There are some
tricks though that I think do matter. I use pure ground peat moss and I
remove all but a couple of leaves and I split the bottom and use rooting
hormone and peat pots and stick it all in a ziplock bag that gets eastern
exposure. I vent it every now and then and breath some carbon dioxide into
it, but they stay there until I get new growth and some roots start poking
out of the pots. This takes awhile, maybe 6-12 months, they are slow
growing. Most Ericaceous hate transplanting so I don't think you
can remove them and try to bare root transplant out, at least I haven't
been able to do that. That's where the peat pots come in, you don't have to
prick them out, just plant the pot and all, but take it easy on them. They
hate transplanting and take a year or so to get established. Watch out for
unusual hot and dry days and don't let the soil dry out until they get
established.

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: bcking@HQ.Ileaf.COM (Christine King)
Subject: Re: brown/black spots on rose bush
Organization: Interleaf, Inc.
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 92 14:44:47 GMT

Black Spot: Yeah, I have it too, on my 60-year-old "Dorothy Perkins"
climbing roses.  It seems to be the worst on those shoots that have
come up from the stock, a simple white rose, but also on the pink
scions.

I've never done *anything* about this in the 9 years I've been living
with these roses, except ask my Mom what to do and store the toxic
chemicals she gave me in the back of the garage...  Just exactly how
worried should I be about Black Spot?
-- 
  Christine King
    Internet: bcking@hq.ileaf.COM
    US Mail:  Interleaf, Inc. / 9 Hillside Avenue / Waltham MA 02154 USA
From: peggys@orca.wv.tek.com
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: African Violets
Date: 12 Aug 92 20:59:26 GMT
Reply-To: peggys@orca.wv.tek.com
Organization: Network Displays Manufacturing, Tektronix,Inc

In article <berthiau.713642344@iros1>, berthiau@IRO.UMontreal.CA (Andre
Berthiaume) writes:
> From: berthiau@IRO.UMontreal.CA (Andre Berthiaume)
> Newsgroups: rec.gardens
> Subject: African Violets
> Date: 12 Aug 92 17:59:04 GMT
> Organization: Universite de Montreal
> 
  But right now, living
> in an apartment, I have, for starters, an African Violet.
> 
> In watering the plant, I use Jobe's Liquid Sunsplash African Violet Food 
> 1-3-2.  It seems to do alright with it.  I have one of those self-watering
> pots (it has a reservoir in the bottom for watering).
> 
> I'd appreciate any more helpful hints and tips to keep this plant healthy
> and lively looking =)
> 
> - Eva
>   bunny@gnu.ai.mit.edu
> 
> 
> 
> (pls ignore the following .sig)
> --
> 	Andre Berthiaume 	 |  "Sometimes you're the windshield,
> 				 |   Sometimes you're the bug"
>     berthiau@iro.umontreal.ca    |			
> 				 |	       Dire Straits, The Bug

I was wondering if it is ok to mix up a batch of bloom food and let it sit &
use it as needed...say a quart at a time.  Right now I only have one mini
violet to feed.

					Peggy

           ===================================================
          | Peggy Shock  				      |
          | Tektronix, Inc., Network Displays Division	      |
          | PO Box 1000, MS 60-430, Wilsonville, OR 97070     |
          | (503) 685-2030 - email: peggys@orca.WV.TEK.COM    |
           ===================================================
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: knossos@milton.u.washington.edu (Judy Broocks)
Subject: How to keep dogs and gardens, too
Reply-To: knossos@u.washington.edu
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 19:49:13 GMT

I have 3 dogs, 2 of them are rather large and are constantly dueling with
each other by constantly lifting their legs over each other's piddle spots. 
Needless to say, I have several areas amongst my rhodies, azaleas and sage
(darn stubborn dogs!) that need, let's say, "sweetening up"!

Does anyone know of anything that will help?  Sprinkling lime?, whatever?

Thanks in advance!

Judy Broocks
knossos@u.washington.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: ceb@dbrus.Unify.Com (Caroline E. Bryan)
Subject: Re: Harvesting Potato(e)s :-)
Organization: /usr/lib/news/organization
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 92 19:50:38 GMT

In article <168481125C.MWORKMAN@vm.cc.purdue.edu> MWORKMAN@vm.cc.purdue.edu writes:
>My husband and I experimented this spring and planted a few pieces of
>potatoes to see if they would grow.  Well now we have about 5
>plants that seem to be thriving.  I was wondering when we should
>dig them up.

First, as they grow, mound soil up around them.  The more loose soil there
is nearby, the more potatoes you'll get.  Don't cover the leaves or anything,
just make life roomy for the roots.

You might like to wait to begin harvesting until after the plants have star-
ted to bloom.  Dig *gently* into the mounds from the side, until you have
uncovered a potato.  If it's too small (your definition), cover it up and
wait a couple more weeks.  If it's big enough, dig in about the same dis-
tance around all the mounds and collect until you have all you want at the
moment.  Harvest as needed until about the first really hard frost, then dig
up the mounds completely and get all the potatoes.  Dig down and out farther
than you expect.

Wash and dry your harvested potatoes and store them in a cool, dark, dry
place, such as on an unused shelf inside a cupboard.

I envy you:  you are in for an amazing and delectable discovery!


Carrie		ceb@rechenau.unify.com	x6244		---------------------+
| "I'm new to C and need to know how to get random numbers returned."  "Just |
| send them back to the manufacturer with the original packaging and the     |
+ receipt.  What?  You didn't keep the receipt?"   	- Anon. -------------+
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: jill@cray.com (Jill McAllister)
Subject: van Bourgondien & Sons
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 12 Aug 92 13:57:31 CDT

VAN BOURGONDIEN & SONS, INC.
   PO Box A
   245 Farmingdale Road
   Babylon, NY 11702


I was wondering if anyone on this list has had trouble with this
company.  I ordered 18 delphinium last February, my VISA was charged,
but I've never received any plants.  I've called them over and over
again.  At first, they told me the plants had been shipped.  (This
was in May; I live in USDA zone 4.)  Then when they didn't arrive,
I called back to say they must have been lost in the mail.  Then I
was told that they'd run out and hadn't shipped them, and that 
they would ship them to me *next* spring!  I've always thought that
mail order places had to inform you if things were out of stock and
give you the chance to cancel your order.  So I said I didn't want
them next spring.  Then they said that they could only give me a
merchandise credit, not credit my VISA.  When I got insistent about
getting credit on my VISA, the person on the phone got rude, but
agreed to credit the card.  Well, it's now August and guess what?
I still haven't had my VISA card credited, and I've been calling
each month to ask why not.  They just keep saying they'll get to it,
but then they never do.  Have other people had this problem with
van Bourgondien?  Is it not a reputable company?

Thanks,

Jill McAllister
(jill@cray.com)
From: gcopmse@state.systems.sa.gov.au
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: RE: ORGANIC LAWN CARE
Date: 20 Aug 92 03:19:32 GMT
Organization: State Systems, South Australia

SANDY I HAVE USED BOILING WATER BUT BE CAREFUL NOT TO POUR ON TOO MUCH AS IT
WILL ALSO KILL EARTH WORMS (SIMPLY BOIL WATER AND POUR IT OVER THE UNWANTED
PLANTS -WEEDS )   AND OTHER GARDEN FAUNA. ALSO YOU CAN LAY DOWN OLD LINOLEUM 
OR CARPET EXCEPT THIS WILL TAKE SOME TIME TO KILL LARGER ARES OF UNWANTED
PLANTS     OTHER THAN THAT WHY NOT GET A GOAT THEY LOVE TO EAT WEEDS.
 MIKE 
 ADELAIDE
 SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: vsummers@polaris.cv.nrao.edu (Vince Summers)
Subject: Re: Huge green bugs eating my tomatoes
Organization: National Radio Astronomy Observatory
	<VSUMMERS.92Aug20123550@polaris.cv.nrao.edu>
	<1992Aug20.180017.10194@centerline.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 20:10:13 GMT

In article <1992Aug20.180017.10194@centerline.com> mrh@centerline.com (Mike Huben) writes:

   Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Path: cv3.cv.nrao.edu!uvaarpa!caen!uunet!centerline!mrh
   From: mrh@centerline.com (Mike Huben)
   Sender: news@centerline.com
   Nntp-Posting-Host: equator
   Organization: CenterLine Software, Inc.
   References: <1453300074@igc.apc.org> <1992Aug20.153620.20836@ucsu.Colorado.EDU> <VSUMMERS.92Aug20123550@polaris.cv.nrao.edu>
   Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 18:00:17 GMT
   Lines: 19

[B   In article <VSUMMERS.92Aug20123550@polaris.cv.nrao.edu> vsummers@polaris.cv.nrao.edu (Vince Summers) writes:
   >
   >     I haven't mentioned something that happened to me as a child that
   >perhaps I should have mentioned on rec.gardens.  As a child, I picked
   >a tomato hornworm off a tomato plant.  I developed a severe swelling on
   >that hand that necessitated the sawing off of my gold and sardonyx ring.
   >     It might be the smart thing then to mention : use a pair of gloves
   >or at least a glove when handling the tomato hornworm.

   The tomato hornworm probably wasn't the cause of your swelling: I've never
  [B read of reactions to any but the widely known poisonous caterpillers in the
   US: io moth, pus moth, saddleback prominant, buck moth, etc.  All these are
   noticeably hairy or spiny.  Tomato hornworms are smooth.

   Perhaps you have a rare allergy or you reacted to something else, such as an
   ant or bee sting that you didn't notice.  I've handled hornworms numerous
   times, without ill effect.

   Mike Huben

        I think you may be right about the allergy.  I suffered as a child
from many of these, though I outgrew almost every lily-livered one of the
buggers.  Still, I wonder if anyone out there in rec-land suffered the 
same thing as I did.  What say ye?

Vince Summers
vsummers@polaris.cv.nrao.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: archiel@sun_archielcom (Archie Lachner)
Subject: Re: Huge green bugs eating my tomatoes
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 17:32:07 GMT
Organization: mentor
Keywords:  grasshoppers and green 'caterpillers' on my tomatoes
Followup-To: 

In article <1992Aug20.153620.20836@ucsu.Colorado.EDU>, buckc@ucsu.Colorado.EDU (Carolyn Buck-Gengler) writes:
|> So are the tomato hornworms about 2 inches long, almost as thick as
|> my little finger, look like big green (and very pretty) caterpillers
|> (non-fuzzy), and have a nasty looking spike on the opposite end of
|> what looks to be the head?  I saw one last night (we put it in the
|> trash) on one of my tomato bushes.  I've missed some of the
|> discussion on whether these things can cause a lot of harm.  
|> A question for those who *aren't* advocating raising every bug and
|> interesting critter that comes along in the interest of ultimate
|> bio-diversity in their garden :-), is this critter something
|> serious?  And how about grasshoppers? We have a ton, they've eaten a
|> couple tomato branches, but don't seem to be doing a lot of damage,
|> except to the horseradish leaves which I don't care about.
|> 
|> I have some "Safer" soap; if the recommended action is to rid my
|> tomatoes of either beastie, is that the way to go?
|> 
|> Thanks,
|> Carolyn
|> -- 
|> Carolyn Buck-Gengler		Department of Linguistics
|> buckc@ucsu.colorado.edu		University of Colorado, Boulder

I'm not sure what the Safer soap will do to either the hornworms or the
grasshoppers.  It may be effective, especially against the latter.  However,
insecticidal soap does have a tendancy to burn plants.

If it were my garden, I'd use a combination pyrethrum/rotenone spray, and then
follow it up with BT for the hornworms.  Both pests have the potential of doing
serious damage, depending on their numbers.  Sufficient numbers of grasshoppers,
in particular, can denude plants.  They are, after all, closely related to
locusts.

I realize this response will probably lead to mild flames about upsetting the
natural balance, etc., but you seem to be interested in some of the alternatives
I've suggested.
-- 
Archie Lachner
Mentor Graphics Corporation
Wilsonville, Oregon
archie_lachner@mentorg.com
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: vsummers@polaris.cv.nrao.edu (Vince Summers)
Subject: Re: African Violets
Organization: National Radio Astronomy Observatory
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 21:24:18 GMT

     Rotate the plants daily.  Not too much sun, little or no direct sun.
Bathe plants occasionally with tepid water, and don't let sun strike 
leaves while wet.  Avoid overwatering.  Soil should dry between waterings.
Avoid being near gas stove.  Other ideas later if you post again.

Vince Summers
vsummers@polaris.cv.nrao.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: maoh@phyast.nhn.uoknor.edu (Maureen O'Halloran)
Subject: Re: Evergreens and Bag Worms
Organization: Engineering Computer Network, University of Oklahoma, Norman, OK, USA
Distribution: rec.gardens
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 18:34:58 GMT

vsummers@polaris.cv.nrao.edu (Vince Summers) writes:

>     Another posting brought to mind something most people seem unaware of.
>Perhaps some of us have seen evergreen trees that turn solid brown, or a
>large portion turns brown.  If you look closely you will see a little
>dangling bag covered with needles, etc., about 1/4" to 1" long.  If you
>pull this off the tree and attempt to tear the bag, why, lo! you can't
>begin to do it.  Inside is a little "worm" called the Bag Worm killing
>your tree.
>     How many times I see these trees, and no one doing anything about
>pulling off the bagworms to save the trees!  Any other experiences or
>insight out there into the bagworm?
>Vince Summers

When I first moved into my house I thought the bagworms *were* little
pinecones.  Then one afternoon I was trimming the grass (by hand) near
the shrub and noticed an audible munching sound!  The little pinecones
were moving!!!  I plucked off about 3 buckets of them (yuchk, gross --
they were moving around in the bucket). The guy mowing
the neighbors lawns though I was nuts -- why not just nuke em with
chemicals?.  They still return every year, I don't think its possible
to get all of them (this is in Oklahoma were the winters are mild).
I've discovered that spraying in the spring when they are very
tiny gets rid of most of them.  If you wait til they get large they
are much harder to kill.   The "bagworm spray" they have in the stores
is an very high concentration of diazonon or something, so I guess
these guys are hard to poison when they are big. Then in the winter I
pull of any big bags to get rid of eggs.  They still return every year
but at least they don't damage the shrubs.  If you see lots of them on
your shrub, act fast because they can do a lot of damage.
	The shrubs they like are arborvitae and cedar, not the more
needly kinds of pines.  There are also lots of those fast-growing
pines around here that people plant when they want instant trees, and
most of them seem to get some kind of desease or parasite that causes
them to die of at the tips, but its not bagworms.
-- 

 Maureen O'Halloran
 This is not a .signature file 
 
--

 Maureen O'Halloran
 This is not a .signature file 
 
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: archiel@sun_archielcom (Archie Lachner)
Subject: Re: brown/black spots on rose bush
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 01:08:33 GMT
Organization: mentor
Keywords: 
Followup-To: 

In article <1992Aug12.144447.6779@HQ.Ileaf.COM>, bcking@HQ.Ileaf.COM (Christine King) writes:
|> Black Spot: Yeah, I have it too, on my 60-year-old "Dorothy Perkins"
|> climbing roses.  It seems to be the worst on those shoots that have
|> come up from the stock, a simple white rose, but also on the pink
|> scions.
|> 
|> I've never done *anything* about this in the 9 years I've been living
|> with these roses, except ask my Mom what to do and store the toxic
|> chemicals she gave me in the back of the garage...  Just exactly how
|> worried should I be about Black Spot?
|> -- 
|>   Christine King
|>     Internet: bcking@hq.ileaf.COM
|>     US Mail:  Interleaf, Inc. / 9 Hillside Avenue / Waltham MA 02154 USA

In a dry year in the Northwest (this one for example), black spot is relatively
minor cosmetic problem.  In damper years, it can succeed in almost defoliating
a rose bush of a variety with low resistance.  Use of sulfur (lime sulfur or
dust) can keep the problem in check in bad years.  It's never going to give you
"florist-grade" roses, but it should keep the problem from becoming a destructive
one without the use of more toxic stuff.

We also replace plants that seem particularly affected by it with more resistant
varieties periodically.
-- 
Archie Lachner
Mentor Graphics Corporation
Wilsonville, Oregon
archie_lachner@mentorg.com
From: pipi@lestat.sybase.com (Pipi Ray Diamond)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: lemon balm transplant
Date: 17 Aug 92 22:11:25 GMT

There was this great lemon balm growing in my friend's garden and she
cut it back practically to the ground.  Since it was so large we
dug up some of the roots and I transplanted them to my own garden.  
Her lemon balm has already started to grow and produce leaves, but mine, 
a month later, is still a bunch of roots sticking out of the ground.  
It doesn't look dead, just dormant.  Could it be there's not enough
sun where I planted them or what?
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: ardyk@tc.fluke.COM (Ardy Kong)
Subject: How to find main mole tunnel?
Keywords: mole, tunnel
Organization: John Fluke Mfg. Co., Inc., Everett, WA
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 18:08:25 GMT

How do you find the main mole tunnel?
Do poison pellets, or gas bombs work well for
getting rid of moles?

Ardy Kong
ardyk@tc.fluke.com
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: amz@iguana.cis.ohio-state.edu (Arnold M Zwicky)
Subject: Re: Dandelions
Followup-To: rec.gardens
Summary: one more reason
Organization: osu, outil, lsa, stanford,...
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 02:58:37 GMT

another reason for getting rid of dandelions is that they tend to
suppress the growth of other plants around them and so to take over
big chunks of territory.  also, though they are beautiful in bloom,
they get pretty ugly afterwards.  (this is a reason for treating them
not as ground covers but as bedding plants in combination with other
tough, but later and taller, plants.)

a good reason for digging up dandelions and putting them on your
compost heap is that their taproots pull up all sorts of good
minerals from the subsoil, which the rest of your garden could use.

jacques and i let them come up where they will, then root them
out and compost them.  we're happy to let some of them bloom
all bright and yellow.  (if we have some free time, we mine
the dandelions from our neighbors' yards, too; there are no
complaints about our taking away weeds.)

arnold
From: ckelly@math.nwu.edu (Christopher Kelly)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: African Violets
Date: 18 Aug 92 15:26:46 GMT
Organization: Dept of Math, Northwestern Univ

In article <berthiau.713642344@iros1>, berthiau@IRO.UMontreal.CA (Andre
Berthiaume) writes:
> Hi!  I'm rather new to this group, so bear with me. :)
> 
> I'm quite the novice to gardening but someday I hope to have a nice yard
> with all the fixings like some of you have. :)  But right now, living
> in an apartment, I have, for starters, an African Violet.
> 
> Basically, what I'd like is some advice to make sure this plant remains
> healthy and flowers regularly.   I first got the plant back in April
> with flowers.  Then the flowers wither and dry (as I asume they normally
> do).  Then I guess I made the mistake of trimming off some of the flowers
> that were past their prime.  Now was that a mistake? But now I see that it
> is ready to bloom with about what looks to be about 5 flowers.  And in the 
> interim the plant really flourished as far as becoming more leafy.
> 
> In watering the plant, I use Jobe's Liquid Sunsplash African Violet Food 
> 1-3-2.  It seems to do alright with it.  I have one of those self-watering
> pots (it has a reservoir in the bottom for watering).
> 
> I'd appreciate any more helpful hints and tips to keep this plant healthy
> and lively looking =)
> 
> - Eva
>   bunny@gnu.ai.mit.edu
> 
-- 
Dear Eva, You're starting in the right place.  I have a small apartment
with TOO many African violets.  Certain ones seem to do better than
others.  So if you get one that doesn't grow or multiply well, try
another.  I bought one called Oklahoma more than 6 years ago. I have to
either destroy the little babies that spring up all around this plant, or
give them away. So even though it said "PROPAGATION PROHIBITED" on the
tag, I will swear in court that this plant itself is the guilty party.
All you have to do is keep them out of _direct_ sun and IN bright light.

My violets are bigger and fuller than any my uncle ever grew with all
the self-watering systems and grow-lights.  Seems to me, it does them
good to get just a little dry, but NEVER to dry out completely (the
soil I mean).  I think the jade plant is also a good indoor plant, as
long as you will give it plenty of sun and not overwater.  A Japanese
maple is a nice container plant too, and it can take a little freezing
if you leave it out on the patio/balcony.  I just started one from a
cutting (in vermiculite under plastic.  I think it is going to live
(amazingly, since it is my first try at rooting from softwood cuttings.

--Chris			internet: ckelly@math.nwu.edu
"I am the way, the truth and the life; no one comes to the Father but
through  me."  -- Jesus Christ  (John 14:6)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: naomib@sco.COM (Naomi Brokaw)
Subject: Re: HELP ME! California Sierra Redwood (Sequoia Giganteum)
Organization: The Santa Cruz Operation, Inc.
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 22:41:10 GMT
Keywords: redwood, sequoia


In article <1992Aug13.184302.11877@sequent.com> sweiger@sequent.com (Mark Sweiger) writes:
>In article <55684@olivea.atc.olivetti.com> elefante@flash.ATC.Olivetti.Com (GUEST Luigi Elefante) writes:

>>in 1989 I bought two plants of sequoia at Big Basin Redwoods State Park;
>>Anyone could help to find books and documentation to grow them?

>...In Italy, I would guess that the main
>difficulty would be lack of water.  In their natural habitat, rainfall
>is usually around 50 inches per year.

Not where he bought them (Big Basin).  More like 20 inches per year.
Although, more would probably not be amiss during the first couple
of years.

>>Massimo Barontini
>>maxb@king.ICO.Olivetti.Com


Newsgroups: rec.gardens