From: weaver@castor.cs.uga.edu (Mike Weaver)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: TARANTULAS
Date: 9 Apr 92 13:41:39 GMT
Organization: University of Georgia, Athens

In article <92099.112809SAF108@psuvm.psu.edu> SAF108@psuvm.psu.edu writes:
>I know this is a herp network but due to the fact that many herps are
>considered exotic pets I figured some of you may know a bit about exotic
>arachnids. I am interested in buying a tarantula, if you have experience
>in this area I'd like to hear from you. I'm mostly concerned with the
>best kind to buy, housing, heating, feeding requirements.
>                                     Thanx STEVE

Actualy in the groups charter, it was said that this group was to be used also
for other exotics as well as herps. So, no problem

Ok, here's my ideas.

I own a Chilean rose tarantula. It is a male about 5 yrs old. (estimations)

I got him about a year and a half ago and have had good luck with him so far

Info:
 
 Housing: He is in a 5 gal square aquarium with a mesh top. The substrate is 
   a mixture of small and large gravel. There is a small water bowl with a 
   piece of natural sponge in it. (note: use only natural sponge, the kinds
   that you can get at the grocery store often are made of materials which 
   can be toxic to the spider) The use of a sponge or floss is to allow the
   spider to easily drink from the bowl and to reduce the chance of drowning
   of food animals. I have provided him with half a strawberry box as a hide
   box. He runs in there when frightened. I provide no additional heat aside 
   from a small light that shines on him and the plants next to him. Be careful
   not to get him too hot, it will kill him as will extreme cold. A small amount
   above room temp is good.
 
 Food: I feed him domestic crickets that I buy from a near-by bait shop. Be 
   careful of wild insects as they can contain insecticides that will kill your
   spider over time. Feed the spider one or two crickets every day/two days.
   Just put the cricket in the cage. If the spider is hungry, it will get the 
   cricket in short order. If the cricket runs loose for several hours, you 
   consider removing it and trying later.

 Husbandry: A few points
   (1) The spider will molt about twice a year. More often if it is young.
       Moulting is a frighting experience for new keepers. The spider will
       look like it is dead. It will lie on it's back with it's legs bunched up
       in front of it. The entire molting process takes several hours, be 
       patient. After moulting, the new skeleton is soft and easily damaged.
       Don't mess with the spider until several hours after the moult. The
       spider will be very hungry after the moult so be sure to offer it plenty
       of food. Please remember to wait for the skeleton to harden after the
       moult or the crickets will hurt the spider.
   (2) It will spend most of it's time just sitting there. Don't expect much 
       in the way of excitement. The major pleasure in owning a spider is the
       beauty of the animal, not it's activity. 
   (3) Spiders are very canabalistic (sp). Under no conditions should you ever
       house more than one spider in a cage.
   (4) Spiders can be hand tamed if you feel adventurous (sp again). Remember
       a few points: 
	  1) Spiders will and can bite. The venom is not dangerous to humans,
	     but the fangs are sizable and can cause a great deal of pain. 
	     (no worse than my ferrets, though)
          2) A fall of more than 1' can kill the spider. When handling the
	     spider, do so over a table.
          3) The tiny hairs on the spider are irritants to humans, be sure
	     that you wash your hands after handling.

If you have any questions that I didn't cover, feel free to e-mail me.

Good luck!
-- 
________________________________________________________________________________
Michael Weaver            |"Where ever you go, There will be something in your
weaver@castor.cs.uga.edu  | way." --Banzai Clutter Theorm
DoD#0529                  |