HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jin@spdcc.com (Jerry Natowitz)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: FAQ? Water vs Oil Polyurethane
Date: 25 Jul 92 13:54:20 GMT
Article-I.D.: spdcc.1992Jul25.135420.7654
Distribution: usa
Organization: S.P. Dyer Computer Consulting, Cambridge MA

I get a unknown host from two different domains when trying to access the house-
archives, so I apologize if this is a FAQ.  We are planning on having our floors
refinished in our new house and have called several contractors.  One insisted
that oil based polyurethane is superior to water, and that he didn't use any-
thing but oil.  he said some people like water based because it doesn't smell,
and dries faster so you can complete a job faster.  Another said that he uses
both, prefers oil because it is less expensive and more durable (soaks into the
wood better).

People we have spoken with all say that we should use water based. Any opinions?
-- 
     Jerry Natowitz
     Guest user on:
ARPA jin@ursa-major.spdcc.com
UUCP {ima,harvard,rayssd,linus,m2c}!spdcc!jin
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Advice needed on attic mounted HVAC system
Reply-To: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 92 21:33:34 GMT

In article <14063@borg.cs.unc.edu> weiss@hatteras.cs.unc.edu (Steve Weiss) writes:

>      1. Is it safe to put a gas furnace in an attic?  

It should be. According to a fire inspector I spoke with in Atlanta once,
natural gas and propane both vent explosions sideways. It should be just as
safe up there as in a crawl space. The only problem you might have is that
these gases are heavier than air, but you *are* venting the attic, right?

>      2. (related to 1) Would a heat pump be better?  

You're in North Carolina? My mother lives in East Tenn. and TVA told
her that gas was better for heat (she already had A/C). In NC, it probably
doesn't matter much either way. Of course, you could put the heat pump out
in the yard instead of the attic. Further North, you'd want to go with gas.
Try asking your local utility company for advice on costs.

>      3. Will the attic unit be noisy?  

Sure will. Another argument for a heat pump.

>      4. Will the ceiling supply and return vents cause a problem with heat?
>         (I assume since cold air sinks, that ceiling vents are ok
>          for AC.)

You're correct. Part of Mama's house is on a concrete slab, so the ducts
in that area are in the ceiling. We freeze there all year 'round. You may
want to consider ceiling fans for the winter. If you have a strong blower
for the heat, you may not have any problems.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | Society calls everything difficult good
                    | and makes everything good difficult.
                    |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: wreck@fmsrl7.srl.ford.com (R. Cage)
Subject: Re: Moving a power panel
Summary: Even better idea.
Organization: Ford Motor Company Scientific Research Labs, Dearborn, MI
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 14:35:45 GMT

In article <1992Jul27.184508.17084@phx.mcd.mot.com> fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com (Fred Christiansen) writes:
>I was leaning this way.  However, the idea of locating things at "Z" (per
>Russ Cage) sounds interesting; the cable run would be only slightly longer.
>However, I'm concerned about the "elbows" in the run.  I am permitted only
>270 degrees of bend (including the 90 for the riser).

If that's a constraint, there is no need to use 90 degree angles
throughout:
                       |-----------|--------------------------|
                       |           |                          |
                       |  future   |  house to be built       |
                       |  garage   |  starting in 2 weeks     |
...                    |   maybe   |                          |
   ...                 |  in 2-3   |-Z-----------|            |
      ...              |   years   | .           |            |
          ...          |-----------| .           |------------|
	      ........................

This gives you 225 degrees of bends including the radius to vertical
at the meter.  Pulling wire through it should be a piece of cake.

If the company doesn't want to have the meter-reader walking around
the house and restricts you accordingly, though, I don't see what
you can do about it.
-- 
Russ Cage   wreck@fmsrl7.srl.ford.com  russ%rsi.uucp@destroyer.rs.itd.umich.edu
  *  When Ford pays me for my opinions, THEN they can call them theirs. *

                           _Bad_ cop.  No donut.
From: stevez@pogo.wv.tek.com (Stephen A Zimmerman)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Painting PVC
Date: 28 Jul 92 23:21:09 GMT
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Wilsonville,  OR.

Hello all,

I'm considering different types of railing for the deck I'm building... one
of which involves using 1" PVC pipe for the balusters (sp?).  What sort of
paint, if any, will stick to PVC and survive Oregon rainfalls?

Steve Zimmerman
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: css@boa.ccsf.caltech.edu (Chris Shenton)
Subject: Re: Metal roofs
Organization: Hughes/STX, Lanham, MD
	<1992Jul24.161916.10352@oracle.pnl.gov>
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 23:21:17 GMT

In article <1992Jul24.161916.10352@oracle.pnl.gov> d3a132@pnl.gov (Carl P Baker) writes:


   In article 5198@nntpd2.cxo.dec.com, marks@ssdevo.enet.dec.com (Randy Marks) writes:
   >
   >Very noisy when it rains (or hails).

   But they shed snow really well (I think that is why they are
   often seen on mountain cabins).  I suspect that if your attic
   is well insulated, you don't notice the noise too much (speculation).

I *like* the sound of rain on a ``tin'' roof. An old house I lived in
didn't have insulation, and you could hear the rain pattering down.
Relaxing, but kinda tough to listen to music.

My current place also has a ``tin'' roof, but I've insulated it and
don't hear anything more than you would with a conventional roof. I
miss the old one. :-(

FWIW...


By the way, the sound of a heavy snow melting and compacting on the
roof is pretty wild, too. 
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: zapantis@uvphys.phys.uvic.ca (Nik Zapantis)
Subject: How do you repaint canvas awnings?
Keywords: awnings,canvas,repaint
Reply-To: zapantis@uvphys.phys.uvic.ca (Nik Zapantis)
Organization: University of Victoria, Physics & Astronomy
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 92 16:27:52 GMT



I would like to ask for advice on how to repaint,if possible, canvas awnings. 
What kind of preparation is needed (need to scrape waterproof/wax(?) coating), kind of paint to use, any special technique/hints, what to do after painting (waterproof again? with what?), and
anything else you may want to pass along from your experience of doing the same.

thanks in advance

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
| Nik Zapantis                  | zapantis@uvphys     (BITNET)  |
| Physics and Astronomy         | 45393::zapantis(HEPnet/SPAN)  |
| University of Victoria        | zapantis@uvphys.phys.UVic.CA  |
| Victoria, BC                  | Phone: (604)721-7729          |
| V8W 3P6                       | FAX:   (604)721-7715          |
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From: brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: How do I kill Ivy?
Date: 30 Jul 92 17:20:47 GMT
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server

I have fair luck by pulling the ivy out (by the roots).  You do get the
odd runner, but it's pretty sure and you avoid haing to use really
nasty herbicides.  IMHO, the mechanical approach to plant removal
should be the first thing to try; plants like ivy seem to be pretty
tough, and chemicals like Roundup seem to do a better job at killing
what you want to keep than getting rid of the weeds.  I killed a
3' tall jade plant with overspray while trying (with futility) to
nuke my bermuda grass invasion...

Pete Brooks
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: harris@athena.mit.edu (Jonathan G Harris)
Subject: Removing wall paper.
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 17:36:22 GMT

What is the fastest way to remove wall paper? Steam or chemicals? Is there a 
particular chemical that is especially fast? I have tried one and it seems to
be very slow, the paper seems to dry out by the time anything has reached the
paste.

-- 
Jonathan G. Harris
Department of Chemical Engineering,  MIT Rm 66-450 
25 Ames Street, Cambridge, MA 02139
harris@athena.mit.edu (617)253-5273  Fax 253-9695
From: smb@ulysses.att.com (Steven Bellovin)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: ADVICE WANTED:  Changing house outlets from 2 to 3 prongs
Date: 29 Jul 92 18:55:08 GMT
Distribution: usa

In article <DRAND.92Jul28134807@spinner.osf.org>, drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas Rand) writes:
> It's called BX.  Armored cable is generally fine.  It should carry a
> bare third wire, although I believe you're correct on using it 
> as a safety ground

The NEC permits use of the conduit sheath as a safety ground; the CEC
does not.  Consequently, Canadian BX has a ground wire, just like NM (Romex)
cable does.  The bare third wire in U.S. BX is sometimes suggested for
use as an auxiliary ground; in my experience, it's too thin, too flimsy,
and generally useless for anything except wrapping around the anti-short
bushing....

>    2. The insulation in cable that old is *very, very* delicate. They
>       typically used rubber and/or cotton, and this will be dry and brittle.
>       If you have to move the wire very much to replace any particular
>       outlet, leave it alone.
> 
> It shouldn't be all that delicate.  It isn't as if it were directly
> exposed wiring dating back 100 years.  I've found the wiring in my
> house (35 years) to be in good condition generally,  including 
> the BX.

Umm.  This depends.  The problem I've had with BX is that older insulation
can't stand the heat very well.  In my house, the insulation is crumbling
on wires inside the boxes for ceiling fixtures -- the extra heat of the bulbs
has caused serious problems.  This is much worse if the ceiling is
insulated.

I'm currently in the process of replacing virtually all the wiring in
my attic.  We're going to put in new ceiling insulation this fall, and
I want to get new cable in while it's still (relatively) easy.  Every
time I've opened up a ceiling box, I've shuddered that I've been living
with something that dangerous.  Yes, it's that bad.  (And now you know
why we wrote all that new text for the FAQ on lighting fixtures...)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: sasjaa@morticia.unx.sas.com (James Adams)
Subject: Re: "Smelly" ice cubes
Originator: sasjaa@morticia.unx.sas.com
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 21:11:22 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: SAS Institute Inc.


In article <1992Jul21.162305.23369@nntpd2.cxo.dec.com>, marks@ssdevo.enet.dec.com (Randy Marks) writes:
|> 
|> In article <1992Jul21.134111.7840@sei.cmu.edu>, wml@sei.cmu.edu (Walter Lamia) writes...
|> > 
|> >I need some advice on what causes ice cubes in the freezer to pick up odors,
|> >and what do to about it.  This is a 1-yr old Amana refrigerator in a new
|> >house, but I have noticed the problem in other refrigerators.  The odor is
|> >vaguely like onion or garlic.  An open box of baking soda doesn't seem to
|> >help, either.
|> > 
|> >I presume this is caused by something else stored in the freezer, but
|> >everything is frozen hard, and wrapped in plastic.  Can anyone suggest what
|> >might be the exact culprit, and what I might try to eliminate the problem?
|> 
|> In my experience, odoriferous ice cubes is due to the water used to make
|> ice cubes.  
wrong. I have this problem as well. The smelly cubes are not the new ones, but are
the old ones. The water itself does not taste bad, it just picks up odors from the
rest of the freezer.
When this happens, I just through out all the old ice and start over.

-- 
+---------------------------------------+-------------------------------------+
|James Adams                            |  I am going as a Homicidal Maniac.  |
|  sasjaa@unx.sas.com                   |  They look like anybody else.       |
|                                       |        Wednesday Addams             |
+---------------------------------------+-------------------------------------+
From: mwr@tridom.uucp (Mark Reardon)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: 1/2" drill reccommendations
Date: 28 Jul 92 22:24:02 GMT
Reply-To: mwr@tridom.uucp (Mark Reardon)
Distribution: na
Organization: AT&T Tridom; Marietta, Georgia

Tools made in Tiawan include many Delta and Grizzly tools.  I
find the biggest difference in the tools to be inspection.  If
a company moves their manufacturing operation anywhere there 
seems to be a tendency to not inspect the parts as well.  If the
manufacturer (actually OEM?) puts their own inspector in the plant
or inspects the product elsewhere before shipping, then quality
problems can be controlled.  If instead, they are only concerned
with costs, then the product will be made cheaply.  

I used to work for an IC manufacturer that shipped the dies to
Tiawan for installation in the carriers.  The work was done
with a low defect rate, lower than our US plant.  We had on
sight inspectors and test equipment to nail problems in the bud
and the system worked.

-- 
Mark

---------------------------------------------------------------------
| Mark Reardon           |  AT&T Tridom                             |
| mwr@eng.tridom.com     |  840 Franklin Court                      |
|                        |  Marietta, GA 30067                      |
---------------------------------------------------------------------
From: rudolph@sparc20.hri.com (David Rudolph)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: What is tax-deductible in closing cost.
Date: 30 Jul 92 17:54:06 GMT
Reply-To: rudolph@sparc20.hri.com (David Rudolph)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Horizon Research

In article <1992Jul30.164407.18139@sequent.com>, bills@sequent.com (Bill
Sears) writes:
> 
> Discount points AND LOAN ORIGINATION FEES are deductible in the year
> that they are paid.  This means that if you pay for these amounts out
> of your own pocket at closing time, they can be deducted on your current
> years taxes.  If, on the other hand, you add the amount of the points
> to the total amount of the loan (generally done on refinances or home
> equity loans), the points must be amortized over the life of the loan.

This part is true. Discount points and loan origination fees are
treated the same.  According to IRS publication 17 ("1991 Tax Guide
for Individuals"), page 132:

"The term "points" is sometimes used to describe certain charges paid
by a borrower to secure a home mortgage.  They are also called loan
origination fees, maximum loan charges, or premium charges... You can
deduct the amount you pay as points in 1991 if the loan is used to
buy or improve your main home and is secured by that home. In
addition, all of the following must exist:"

The conditions are stuff like the number of points you paid is
normal for your area, and you didn't borrow the points from the
lender. [Please see the publication for full details; I don't claim
to list all details here]

> 
> There is so much misinformation flying around about discount points and
> refinances.  If you pay the discount points at closing, then you can
> deduct the entire amount on your current years taxes, whether the loan
> is an original mortgage, a refinance, home equity, or whatever.  Simply
> remember that the discount points are "deductible in the year they are
> paid."  So, if you pay them they are deductible, if you add them to the
> loan, then they are deductible through the term of the loan (amortized).

This part is not true. Quoting from the same source, page 133:

"Points you pay to refinance a mortgage are not deductible in full in
the year you pay them unless they are paid in connection with the
improvement of a home. This is true even if the new mortgage is
secured by you main home."


----------------------------------------------------------------------------

David Rudolph                   |       phone: (617) 466-8370
Horizon Research, Inc.          |       email: rudolph@hri.com

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas Rand)
Subject: Re: Using GFI on a 2 Prong outlet ?
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Date: 31 Jul 92 16:17:14

In article <1992Jul31.164532.20738@jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca> leath@atlas.cs.upei.ca (Stephen Leath) writes:

   In the FAQ on electricity, it states one can use a GFI in a two wire circuit
   in lieu of rewiring to three wire. I am about to do just that, but, the
   instructions with the GFI state : if there is no grounding wire attached to the old
   outlet be sure to provide grounding means for the new GFCI. I did read in a
   previous notice that this was not nesessary, is this true and does it meet
   electrical standards ? Also in the FAQ it states not to connect the ground
   to anything, how does it then protect against a live casing if the
   insulation fails ? Should the GFI ground be connected to the casing ?

1)  Yes it is code.  Unless your local code specifically 
disallows it (the NEC does not have the force of law) a GFCI is
reasonable protection and specifically allowed by code in exactly
this one circumstance. 

However, it is preferable to obtain a safety ground when available.
(as the code exception notes in the 1990 code)

2) The grounding wire is not necessary for the GFCI to function
properly.

3)  You are correct that the GFCI will not protect the user from the
casing becoming "hot",  unless this causes a current flow.  In that
case (such as the user touching the appliance) the GFCI will trip.

Last) The GFCI ground pin may be connected to the chassis if you
want.  It doesn't affect the effectiveness of the GFCI.


--
Douglas S. Rand <drand@osf.org>		OSF/Motif Dev.
Snail:         11 Cambridge Center,  Cambridge,  MA  02142
Disclaimer:    I don't know if OSF agrees with me... let's vote on it.
Amateur Radio: KC1KJ
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: What about alarm systems 
From: stein@oxygen.aps1.anl.gov
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 17:15:12 GMT
Organization: Argonne National Laboratory - Advanced Photon Source

In article <l7dg7iINNlsu@roundup.crhc.uiuc.edu> mary@uicsl.csl.uiuc.edu (Mary
E. Allison) writes:
>     Well, I missed the start of the Burglars and dogs and snakes 
>discussion so someone may have brought this up -- but why not get
>burglar alarms?  How much do they cost, probably less than a dog and
>dog food and vet bills and however much you'd end up getting sued by
>the burglar after s/he is treated for the snake bites.
>
>
I Too would like some info on alarms and alarm systems - I've just bought my
first house (new construction) and am just about to move in. I would like to
install an alarm system, (yes, I dropped the ball - should have had it done
while the house was being built... oh well) either by a contractor, or
(prefered) by me.

Any good names (alarm manufac. or contractors)? I would like the normal
window/door sensors, motion dectors, etc. I would also like enough flexibility
to interface into a computer somehow - I _love_ to fool around with this stuff!


+-----------------------------------+-----------------------------+
!  __o             __o         /!   ! S. Joshua Stein             !
!  \<_       __e  -\<_        / !   ! Advanced Photon Source      !
! @/ O      -\<   O/ O        !     ! Argonne National Laboratory !
!           0/ 0              !     ! stein@oxygen.aps1.anl.gov   !
+-----------------------------------+-----------------------------+
! "You meatheads are useless without some sauce."                 !
+-----------------------------------------------------------------+

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: sgs8r@kelvin.seas.Virginia.EDU (Steve Strickland, sgs8r@virginia.edu)
Subject: grounding subpanel in detached garage
Organization: Dept. of Systems Eng., U.Va.
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 23:45:09 GMT

I brought this up over a year ago but I'm about to finally do it. But I'm still
not clear on how to handle the ground and neutral. 

1. Do I need both ground and neutral (along with the 2 hots) in the feed from
the main panel in the house to the garage panel? Or can the ground serve as
both the 110v return as well as the ground? The run is around 30 feet and I was
planning on using USE 6-2/G cable. 

2. Can I then connect neutral bus and ground bar together in the subpanel? This
is sort of treating the subpanel like a service equipment except that the
ground runs 30 feet to the main panel grounding electrode, as opposed to having
a grounding electrode right at the subpanel (in the ground outside).


What are the conceptual issues here? It seems like you don't want seperate
grounding electrodes at the main and subpanels since you could develop a ground
potential which could become a problem if something connected in the garage
contacts something connected in the house. 

And you also want the 110v return to be distinct from the ground wire in all
circuits so that the ground wire will serve as a non-current-carrying backup
return (sort of). The scheme above combines the return and ground in the
subpanel-mainpanel cable only. So picturing someone with his hand on a saw
motor, any 110v current arriving at the subpanel has two options: the 6 gauge
ground back to the main panel, or the circuit ground (say 12 gauge) from the
subpanel to the motor thru the person to the puddle they're standing in. Seems
OK. In general, it seems like you always want the path through the circuit
ground and you to ground to be much higher impedence than that from the panel
to the grounding electrode. But what does the CODE say?

Thanks in advance for any help.

-Steve Strickland

 sgs8r@virginia.edu
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house