From: u6409886@ucsvc.ucs.unimelb.edu.au
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Aussie classics #3
Date: 10 Nov 92 11:19:59 +1100
Organization: The University of Melbourne

This post #4 in the Aussie Climbing 101 series. The previous ones were
Australian Grading, Mt Arapiles, and Moonarie. Send by email if you
want them. Given a lack of volunteers to write up other areas, you
will get them as I visit them. The following was written as a result
of three days visit, during which it rained almost constantly, and no
climbing was done! Nevertheless, I had a good look around, and have
spoken to some local climbers, so the following should be fairly
accurate. Any complaints/ammendments can be added to an update. (Arapiles
update coming soon.) Also, any volunteers for Frog Buttress (Q),
Mt Sterling (WA) ot anything in Tasmania would be appreciated. I hope to
be able to pitchfork^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^H convince someone to provide a
Blue Mountains (NSW) write up soon.

Andrew Davies
Physics, Melbourne Uni.

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Aussie Classics #3 - Booroomba Rocks (Australian Capital Territory)

General Remarks: Booroomba rocks is a magnificent set of granite outcrops
situated just outside of the city of Canberra, capital of Australia. The
city is an extremely attractive one of 300,000 people, and has the highest
per capita income in the country. There are several outdoor equipment
shops, and any other supplies can be purchased locally.

Guide book: The Australian National University climbing club published a
very nice guide called "ACT Granite" about four years ago, with route
descriptions and some very good drawings of all the main faces. It
describes some other areas as well as Booroomba, and contains some 1,000
climbs. It retails at A$16.50.

Description: Booroomba Rocks is part of a National Park, and as such _all_
flora and fauna is protected. It is worth reiterating the danger of snakes,
as some climbers have been bitten on routes. (The guide warns of one
snake residence.) The local snakes are brown snakes, which can be lethal.
There are many other animal species around, including a vast number of
small lizards. The setting is fantastic, and the view from the rock faces
is of a sweeping valley thicky wooded with native trees. (For visiting
Victorians the place is visually reminiscent of the Cathedral valley as
seen from the North Jawbones (see a later post in this series)). There
will be a few tourists around, but the walk in is enough to deter the
most objectionable types. There are no facilities at the rocks proper,
so carry water in, and refuse out. There are no toilets, so please
give any "offerings" a decent burial. There are no camping facilities
at Booroomba.
	I am told there used to be a tradition of kidnapping a garden 
gnome on the way there to climb, resulting at one stage in 100s of 
them being scattered around the top of the cliffs!
Alas, word got out, and they have been reclaimed. (Either that or a
rabid cairn kicker got them. :-) ;-) etc)

Access: Take the road SE from Canberra towards Tharwa until you cross the
single lane Tharwa bridge (about 25 minutes drive), then veer left
towards Honeysuckle Creek. Follow the road through picturesque valleys
until you see the sign to the right for Booroomba rocks. Turn off and
follow the dirt road for about 2 km to a carpark, then follow the walking
track up the hill (15-20 min) to the top. Warning: from the creek to the
top of a hill the road is  _steep_, and we had to eject all of the
passengers from our car (Toyota Corolla - I know, I know) to get up it.

The climbing: The rock here is a fairly finely grained granite, with
colours from grey through brown to orange. The frictional properties
are excellent. One thing that may strike the visitor is the boldness
of some routes. On the walk in one sees a large stretcher and field
dressings/splints etc in a hollow tree by the path. These tend to set
the tone for the visit. Many routes are run out, especially on the
slabs, and the bolting ethic has certainly not got out of control here.
I have spoken to climbers who are comfortable at 20/21 on lead who
don't like some of the 15/16 at Booroomba due to lack of runners. In
fact the guide book has a quote before one such route: "If it's got a
runner it's not bold". Also, some routes of 30-40 m have _no_ runners
and are technically difficult. Such routes are marked in the guide with
a little "grim reaper" symbol. Having said that, there are also many
routes with excellent protection, and most are adequate. Just take care
choosing a route. There has been some chopping of bolts, so please don't
take your own bolting attitudes there - respect the local death wish/ethic.
As well as long (by Australian standards, > 100m) slab routes, there are
many face/arete climbs.

Recommended climbs: 

Integral Crack *** 19+, 48m
This has to be one of the best looking routes I have ever seen. The climb
is on the south buttress, and is surrounded by grey formless blobite, all
of which only highlights the quality of the route itself, which takes the
form of lighter coloured band of rock with a couple of fine cracks which 
run the length of the climb. Natural protection is excellent for the
whole of the first 42m - take lots of small wires - you will be able to
see what to take from the bottom.

Hermes ** 16, about 50 metres (2 pitches)
The grade of this is correct, despite the formidable appearence of the
5m roof that blocks progress near the top. There is a nice comment in
"Classic Climbs of Australia" : "As you take a rest squashed up under 
the roof, look out to the right. That arc of moss free rock reaching 
down from the lip to the corner below describes the trajectory of
lead climbers who slip off."

Equilibrium * 17 and Determinant ** 15
These climbs are both on the vast expanse of the Northen slabs. I am
told that the climbing is of sufficient quality and runners sufficiently
sparse (>15 runout on the former at one point) to make life interesting. 

Sickle/Deep Space *** 16, 90m (two pitches)
The ranger and guide book both highly recommend this one. It is not on
Booroomba proper, but on Honeysuckle crag. To get there, ignore the turnoff
to Booroomba, and drive another 400m or so to the old tracking station,
turning right there onto a dirt road, which is followed via the right
fork a little way along for about 1.5 km until the crag is visible high
on the left. Park wherever you think is closest, and bash up the hill
through the scrub for 20 minutes to the crag. (I include this because
the guide doesn't - also if you want to go to tower rocks, the tower is
gone now.) The climb is a slab/jam crack up the airiest part of the crag,
and should be excellent value.
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