HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 26 Jan 1993 12:24:20 EST
From:         "Lawrence E. Rondot" <RONDOT@IPFWVM.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: looms

On Tue, 26 Jan 1993 16:34:56 GMT Michael A. Dritschel said:
>I am interested in building either a counter-marche or counter-balance
>loom.  My preference would be to design it myself, but it would be
>nice to study other's plans before starting in order to understand
>various design advantages and drawbacks.  Can anyone recommend plans
>for such a project or books on loom construction?  Thanks!
>--
>Michael A. Dritschel          mad@cs.wm.edu

Well, as luck has it I have a set of plans for a four treadle loom in a book
on my desk.  The book is Masterpiece Furniture Making by Frank H. Gottshall
Published by Stackpole Books (Cameron and Kelker Streets, P.O. Box 1831,
Harrisburg PA 17105), 1979.  ISBN 0-8117-0974-4.

In the book he has several good photographs and detailed drawings of various
parts of the loom.

If this is what you need, let me know off-line.

>
>Department of Mathematics
>The College of William and Mary

Larry Rondot
Rondot@IPFWVM      - or -      Rondot@SMTPLink.IPFW.Indiana.Edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: H&A No. 1 bandsaw
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 17:16:03 GMT

cf603@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Dave Sill) writes:
: 
: If it is a bronze sleeve, can I take it to a machine shop and have it
: replaced with a new one?  Could I upgrade to a ball or roller bearing? 

Yes, you can get a shop to machine you a new bushing.

It is doubtful if you will have room for a ball or roller bearing.

Bill
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 22 Jan 1993 12:01:24 EST
From:         Jim Morgan <JMORGAN@BROWNVM.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Vacuum hose reducers

>Posted on 22 Jan 1993 at 11:36:21 by Bob Pelcovits
>
>>Date:         Fri, 22 Jan 1993 10:33:38 EST
>>Reply-To:     Woodworking Discussions <WOODWORK@IPFWVM.BITNET>
>>From:         "Bramel, Jim" <UKA004@UKCC.UKY.EDU>
>>
>>I am surprised anyone would admit to owning anything Sears after the
>>beating I took a few weeks ago about my Sears tools.
>I will only admit to owning their vacuum, not their jigsaw or 1/2" drill.
>
>
>
>                                  --Bob Pelcovits
>                                  Robert_Pelcovits@brown.edu
>                                  (401)-863-1432
>                                  FAX (401)-863-1157

Yep, I could swear I didn't see a Craftsman TS in his basement, either ;-)

Jim Morgan
Brown University
From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 21:52:05 GMT
Subject: Re: How do I start with $500?
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

mcbryde@navier.math.uh.edu (Jack Mcbryde) writes:
>>>In article <1jptotINNcls@cronkite.cisco.com>, echi@cisco.com (Eric P. Chi) writes:
>>>|> I plan to setup some equipments to build some bookshelf kind thing
>>>|> for my study room and garage. I am wondering whether I should buy a table
>>>|> saw or radial saw? Or do I really need those fancy equipments? 
>>>|> Also if is there brand/model you can recommend? My budget is ~$500.
>
>Lots of responses deleted. I don't really see how anybody can justify making
>*any* recommendations without more information. What kind of shelve-type
>things do you want to build. Stricly functional? Decorative? Hardwood?
>Cheap lumber? Plywood? Do you want to make it out of standard lumber?

   Wow!  Great flame of everyone who responded to this message.

   This is sure to win you friends!  :-)   :-)   :-)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: biz@soil.NoSubdomain.NoDomain (Dave Bisignano)
Subject: Re:      Cutting Plexiglass
Originator: news@nimaster
Reply-To: biz@soil.Princeton.EDU
Organization: Princeton University
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1993 21:36:31 GMT

Cutting on the table saw is fine, it won't melt
unless you go too slow.  You can buff the scratches
out with Noxon(sp) (brass cleaner)
-Dave
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Woodworker's Book Club??
From: jesse@mars.slu.edu
Date: 22 Jan 93 10:12:39 CST
Organization: Parks College St. Louis Univ.

In article <1993Jan12.205305.2881@crd.ge.com>, meltsner@crd.ge.com (Kenneth J. Meltsner) writes:
> 
> As a confirmed book and catalog junkie, I'm intrigued by the
> Woodworker's Book Club offer in the Jan/Feb 93 issue of Woodwork.
> They offer 1 freebie and 1 pr 2 1/2 price books + $4.32 shipping as an
> introductory offer, with no future obligations.  S&H, the traditional
> annoyance of book clubs, is free if payment is enclosed with
> subsequent orders.
> 
> Sounds like a good deal.  Any problems with the club?  Is there a
> "sign-up-a-new-member" offer that I can help someone out with?

I am a member, I tried to return an order.  I wrote them a letter asking for
a RMA and return postage (why not maybee they would pay for it).  I never got
a response.  I still have the books.  It seems like there is no one at the
bookclub that can reply to a letter.  Are all book clubs like this?

The reasion I was returning the books was because one had the binding broken,
and the other with the club discount was the same price that was stamped on the
book ( supposed list price - discount = price stamped on the book).  I verified
this price with a local book store.

Also on my free book the cover was on backwords.  So if you opened the book
using the cover as a reference then you were at the last page of the index.  I
didnt complain because it was free.

> 
> ===============================================================================
> Ken Meltsner                        | meltsner@crd.ge.com (518) 387-6391


Jesse

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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Wed, 27 Jan 1993 10:22:08 EST
From:         peter dunster <pdunster@CC.UOW.EDU.AU>
Subject:      Re: looms
              Dritschel" at Jan 26, 93 4:34 pm

>
> I am interested in building either a counter-marche or counter-balance
> loom.  My preference would be to design it myself, but it would be
> nice to study other's plans before starting in order to understand
> various design advantages and drawbacks.  Can anyone recommend plans
> for such a project or books on loom construction?  Thanks!
> --
> Michael A. Dritschel          mad@cs.wm.edu
>
> Department of Mathematics
> The College of William and Mary
>
Michael,

        Agreed, it is preferable to design your pieces yourself, but you
really need somebody who is fairly expert in weaving to advise you of what
is or is not important.  I designed an 8 shaft loom a few years ago for a
local weaving supply store, the owner is a Master weaver from Sweden. The
prototype had to be rebuilt at least 3 times before she was happy with using
it!
        So far I have never seen any plans for a loom that would be a good
work-horse when finished.  My workshop is next to the weaving supply store
(Glenora Craft is their name, they advertise in a few American weaving
magazines so you may have heard of them.) so if you have any questions I
should be glad to pass them on for you.

Good Luck

Pete

--
=========================================================================
Dept. of Mech. Eng.                |Pete Dunster
University of Wollongong           |Tel     +61-42-213597
Northfields Ave                    |Fax     +61-42-213101
Wollongong                         |Email   p.dunster@uow.edu.au
N.S.W. 2522  AUSTRALIA             |
=========================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Thu, 21 Jan 1993 12:09:51 -0500
From:         "Wile E. Coyote" <BBHULSEY@LIFE.UAMS.EDU>
Subject:      Re: Spiral Cutting Jig

Greetings!

Ed Hope writes:

>I believe Sears has a gizmo that you can attach a router to to make spirals.
>Although I have not used this gizmo, reviews I've read have been positive.
>
>Has anybody used this gizmo or know its real name?

This is a doodad that Sears put out years ago, discontinued, and has now
recently re-continued due to customer demand.  I've never actually used one,
but I read an article about it in Woodshop News a while back.  I can't
remember the name either, but if no one else can remember it either, I'll go
look it up.

.......
:  o/ : Bruce Hulsey
: <|  : Univ. of Arkansas for Medical Sciences
: / > : internet: bbhulsey@life.uams.edu
:.....: bitnet:   bbhulsey@uams
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: grun@intellistor.com (Paul Grun)
Subject: Re: 3 phase question
Organization: Intellistor, Inc.
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 93 16:35:12 GMT

In <C12GKy.t3A@austin.ibm.com> frank@austin.ibm.com (F. Karner) writes:
>> 
>> >I am curious because someone said used 3-phase industrial machines 
>> >can be bought cheap.
>> 
>> The reason, of course, is that few people have 3-phase power for them;
>> hence there's little demand.

>Not!  Less demand would almost certainly result in HIGHER price.  You
>know, the old and tried supply/demand model!

>What we have here is less complexity in the manufacture of the stator
>windings due to the rotating effects of the 3 phases (I'm assuming
>induction motors here). ..... 

>         DISCLAIMER: The opinions expressed in this posting are mine
>            solely and do not represent my employer in any way.
>       F. A. Karner AIX Technical Support | karner@austin.vnet.ibm.com

[This is definitely off the subject of woodworking (except as it relates to
supply and demand of woodworking machines), but....]

No, no, no, silly.

Supply and demand works the other way.  For a given level of demand,
an increased supply results in decreasing prices.  The market drives
the prices down.  Likewise, for the same level of demand, a constricted
supply drives the prices UP.

Conversely, for a given level of supply, increased demand will have the
effect of bidding the price up.  And, to complete the picture, decreased
demand means that the existing supply will go begging; i.e. the price
drops.  This is the situation alluded to above. 

That's classical supply and demand.  The only case I can think of that fits
your explanation is the case of new manufacture, where demand is not large
enough to support multiple manufacturers.  In that case, one manufacturer
may develop a monopoly on a small market and drive the price artifically high.
Of course if he did that, the high price would be a call to other manufacturers
to enter the market....but that's for new equipment.

-Paul
-- 

goes to show, you don't ever know...
grun@intellistor.com
From: mclean@archimedes.chinalake.navy.mil (Steve McLean)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re:  Hey! Lets have a survey....
Date: 26 Jan 93 20:16:48 GMT
Organization: Naval Air Warfare Center
X-Xxmessage-Id: <A78ADE6667011F38@gallahad.nwc.navy.mil>
X-Xxdate: Tue, 26 Jan 93 20:26:14 GMT
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d9

I built 2 oak plywood bookcase/cabinet units for my mother-in-law
over the Christmas holidays.  I used the plans for the plywood
bookcase shown in Woodsmith a few years back and just adjusted
the width of them to fit in the spots where she wanted to put them.

I'm building a solid oak bookcase, armoire, and bed for my son.  The
bookcase and armoire are finished and I have the wood for the 
bed but I haven't begun gluing up the blanks for it yet.  The bed
sets
on top of the bookcase and armoire (one on either end) to make a 
loft bed.  But I made them so that when he gets older and doesn't 
want a loft bed anymore, the bookcase and the armoire can stand 
alone as regular furniture.

I took the cutoffs and scraps left from bookcase and armoire and cut
out and glued up blanks to make the cabinetmaker's tool chest shown
in the Woodsmith issue I got last week.  My wife wants to store all
her 
craft supplies in it (she's very crafty : -)

I've enjoyed this thread and hearing about what everyone is working
on.

Steve McLean
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bellas@soldev.TTI.COM (Pete Bellas)
Subject: Re: Name your favorite blade
Reply-To: bellas@soldev.TTI.COM (Pete Bellas)
Organization: Transaction Technology, Inc.
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 15:59:34 GMT

In article <1993Jan20.192312@mloeff01> (kl@cveng120.veheng.det) writes:

> I get better results with a Freud  50 tooth combo LU84 

I was actually intending to get the Freud but needed the blade in a hurry
(like today) and the only one available locally was a Pirahna.  The cuts
on my table saw (with the 50 combo) are smooth as glass so I have no
complaints, perhaps I just got lucky.

> A friend, whose opinion and experience, recommended that I try an OLDHAM so
> I am going to try one of those for use specifically on the miter box

Interesting enough the blade I needed to replace in a hurry was an Oldham.
I was never very happy with the cuts and when it shucked 3 teeth in a single
cut I decided I would rather have a different blade.

			-Pete-



* Pete Bellas                   "Cogito ergo spud"                         *
* Citicorp/TTI                       I think therefore I yam.              *
* Santa Monica, CA                                                         *
* bellas@gamma.tti.com                                                     *
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 22 Jan 1993 12:07:44 EST
From:         Doug Cutler <UNCDWC@UNCVM1.OIT.UNC.EDU>
Subject:      Drills, 12.0/9.6 volts.

  One additional point:
    I have had a 9.6 volt drill for about 6 years now, it has always done
 what was asked of it, however I had to drill a large number of 3/8" holes
 some 10" deep in pressure treated lumber.  The drill had plenty of power
 on it's low speed setting but after about a dozen holes the gearbox gave
 out!
    As the project was critical I drove up to WWS and bought what was on
 sale at the time which was a Ryobi 12v, that drill did the remaining
 fifty or so holes without any problem.  It is very heavy and akward
 tool to use so I have goten my 9.6 Milwauke with it's center (Panasonic
 type) handle fixed.
    Consider that the brute power from the battery isn't the only thing
 to consider, I still use the 9.6 for the majority of jobs but am now
 more considerate of it's fragility.
    BTW, Black and Decker (I think) makes a real nice 1/4 this is 7.2,
 cost about $45, they say it can be used as a driver but it doesn't have
 a slip clutch.  I have one and use it with the "Insti-Bit" hex adapter
 and drills, very convenient and quite small.


  Doug. Cutler                       Office of Information Technology,
  VM Systems Programmer              University of North Carolina.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ameres@ithaca.cat.rpi.edu (Eric Ameres)
Subject: Re: 9.6v/12v cordless drills
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 14:53:18 GMT

In article <1993Jan22.214413.27851@slcs.slb.com> weissborn@dfwdsr.sinet.slb.com writes:

>but both seem to be the same to me.  The one thing I don't
>like about the Dewalt is that in the screw-driver mode, you
>have to press down to engage the chuck.  Looking at their
>"see-thru" model, there are two little "hickeys" that catch,
>one on the chuck shaft, the other on the drive-shaft.  Seems
>like these would be prone to breakage.
>
>weissborn@dfwvx1.sinet.slb.com

While the sheet-rockers were installing the drywall in my house I
noticed that their drywall screwguns also had such a feature.  These
guys definitely punish their tools and the mechanism holds up or them.
I didn't notice the brand and they were definitely not cordless.  Of
course the mechanisms are probably a little different but, given the
quality of DeWalt products in general I wouldn't worry.  I would've
definitely bought the DeWalt 12v instead of the Skil TopGun 12v had I
known the DeWalt had this feature.

I was amazed how these guys were able to drive so many screws without
ever even shutting their drivers off.  Probably saves some start/stop
wear and tear but would eat up battery packs.

-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Eric Ameres,  Software Engineer                 ameres@cat.rpi.edu
New York State Center for Advanced Technology in Automation & Robotics
Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute - CII 8313, Troy, NY 12180-3590
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: NYW bashing; was 'HOMETIME'
Date: 27 Jan 93 16:43:27 GMT
Article-I.D.: informix.1993Jan27.164327.21136
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

william.l.millios writes:
>>David Kosenko writes:
>>If you really pay attention, you will probably find that the most
>>commonly used "esoteric gimcrack" in Norm's repetoire is the common
>>router!
>
>This month's Home Mechanix magazine (don't flame me - it was a
>gift) has a little review of Norm and his power-tool ways.
>
>He has, believe it or not, 9 routers in the New Yankee Workshop.

Did anyone catch the This Old House for the Boston Ranch where Norm and
Steve went to the NYW (Norm was building the entertainment center thing)?
Norm had about 4 compound miter saws stacked up.  9 routers is pushing it
but 4 miter saws is way over the top.  I'm starting to wonder if Norm grew
up in a dysfunctional family, and his obsessive accumulation of power tools
is a manifestation of his arrested emotional development ;-)

Dave
-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
"I look back with some satisfaction on what an idiot I was when I was 25,
 but when I do that, I'm assuming I'm no longer an idiot." - Andy Rooney
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: asket@acad2.alaska.edu
Subject: Headboards & Survey Response
Organization: University of Alaska
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1993 18:45:57 GMT

     To Michelle (micki@netcom.com), working on the headboard: if you're
going to do a shelf over the head(s) of the bed's occupant(s), a note
of advice...if you're going to rest drinks on the shelf, like 7-11 big
gulps of Moutain Dew, make sure you put a rail on the shelf, like they do
in ship's galleys.  I still remember that cold shock at 3:00 a.m. when
I rolled over and...
   
     And for the survey: I'm working on a music table (still), a green-marble
topped, beautiful-pink-cherry wood, trimmed in Padauk table resting on three
pairs of lyre-shaped legs, "strung" with bright polished copper tubing harp
strings.  I should finish this project sometime toward the end of the
century--the 21st Century.
                              Back to the workshop---Karl Thoennes
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 22 Jan 1993 13:10:46 -0800
From:         RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM
Subject:      Re: Planer Questions

Some delta add's have clamed there portable planer will go down to
1/8".

The instruction manual for mine said min thinkness of 1/2".

I've planed down to 1/4" (oak) with out a problem and with out special
jigs.

                        Ron Tye (all opinions my own)
From: billp@deepspace.East.Sun.COM (Bill Pittore - SunSelect)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Hey! Lets have a survey....
Date: 26 Jan 93 22:27:45 GMT
Reply-To: billp@east.sun.com (Bill Pittore - SunSelect)
Organization: SunSelect - A Sun Microsystems Business, Chelmsford MA
NNTP-Posting-Host: deepspace.east.sun.com

I'm currently in the process of building new kitchen cabinets.  Since
I'm somewhat time constrained (ain't we all) I farmed out some of the work.
My wife has seen how I can drag out a project and was firm with me about
getting this one done in a reasonable amount of time.  (I tried to explain that
I didn't mind if we didn't have a kitchen for 6 months or so but she wouldn't
buy it!)

As it turned out I believe that it was the right decision.  Over the christmas 
break (2 weeks) I built 15 feet of base cabinets and 9 feet of wall cabinets 
(just the cases).  The overall design of the cabinets is 'European' in that the
doors and drawers are full overlay with no face frames.  I teamed up with
a local custom cabinet maker to offload some of the work.  For the cases
I had him rip all the birch plywood and put cherry veneer on the appropriate
edges.  This saved me tons of time and effort since wielding 4x8 sheets of
plywood down my basement is painful. I then took the 8' x various width
pieces and crosscut them, dado'd, glued etc.  The door design is a
cherry raised panel design.  I built a few prototype doors and then
got some help from the custom shop.  He's ripping the stiles and rails
and panel pieces and gluing up the panels.  I'll then take them and 
raise the panels and glue up and finish the doors then mount them
 (there are about 30 doors).

I was all ready to build my drawers out of 1/2" maple stock when this custom
guy saved me more time (at the expense of money of course).  There are
several places where you can order drawers in any size, wood type, finish etc.
You can get the drawers in pieces and glue up and finish yourself or
fully finished.  Fully finished maple drawers (half blind dovetails front and
back) were about $40 each.  

It would have been nice to have been able to do the whole project but even
I succumbed to the reality of the situation.  I did get to build several 
prototypes from scratch which we used to finalize the overall design.

On the plus side, I got my wood, plywood and hardware from this guy cheaper 
than I could have gotten it myself since he passed on some of his discount 
to me.

The kitchen is part of a major renovation/addition so I'll have plenty of
other things to fill in what little time is available (like 1200 sq ft of
flooring to install; anyone used one of those Bostitch flooring staplers
on hardwood flooring???  I'm curious if it works ).


I'll let you all know how it all turns out...


bill pittore
-- 
Bill Pittore - SunSelect, a Sun Microsystems Inc. Business
Chelmsford, MA 01824

bill.pittore@sun.com	(508) 442-0310
From: spangler@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Bill Spangler)
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 18:49:50 GMT
Subject: Re: Cutting plexiglass
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

> / hpcc01:rec.woodworking / markw@hpcss01.cup.hp.com (Mark Williams)
> ...
> I have found good sources of small scrap pieces of Lexan locally.
> Tap plastics is one place.  Another is a real raunchy surplus joint with
> crazy low prices.  I stocked up there ($.50 per square foot).  I makes
> great router bases and little guard plates.

Could you tell us which real raunchy surplus joint?

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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 26 Jan 1993 07:23:46 PST
From:         "Jim Johnson 7-9535 (6518 TS/EN)" <jjohnson@EDWARDS-SCY.AF.MIL>
Subject:      Re: Drawers
              Jan 26, 93 3:06 am

      I also find myself building drawers for a secretary that I am
      building.  I would have to say that using redwood would be far too
      soft for any friction parts but there is no reason you can't make the
      drawer fronts from it.  Same for the pine especially for a storage
      component that may see alot of weight.  In my drawers I used a pine
      front and used 1/2" oak for the sides and back.  The bottom was made
      from luau(sp?) (mahogany) 1/4" plywood.  The steps you outlined were
      the
      ones I used except I'm waiting for the drawers to be constructed prior
      to finish sanding/scraping.  If you build out of plywood build all
      four sides from plywood and attach drawer fronts to that or the
      plywood may cause problems if the drawer front expands or contracts.
      I've only been woodworking for 2 years and some other nettes may have
      other ideas.

      James Johnson
      Standard Disclaimer
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking