HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: millios@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (william.l.millios)
Subject: Tax Advice
Organization: AT&T
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 15:04:25 GMT

I am looking for other woodworkers who have successfully wound
through the labyrinth required in order to declare their woodworking
business as a "business" in the eyes of the IRS.

I am about to order a whole lot of stuff - and I have already ordered
a lot of stuff this year (to the tune of $1000+ this year, $3000+
very soon).  Since I am ultimately going to sell some of the
stuff I make, if only to support my "habit", I have to declare the
income.

Now, it has occurred to me that many people go about this the
wrong way.  They buy all the equipment on their own budget, then
start declaring the income when it starts coming in.  

With some preliminary research, I have discovered that a business
only has to be "profitable" (i.e., income exceeds expenses) for
two years out of 5.  That means I can buy, buy, buy for the next
two years, sell a little all five years, and only have to earn
more in the fourth and fifth year in order to have a positive
net income.

It also greases the skids for the wife, so I can justify buying
all this stuff in a short time frame, vs. spreading it out over
the next eon.

However, I'm looking for advice from those who've successfully
done this before - tips, good places to go for advice, etc.
Anything you've got, I'll take.

One wrench in the works - I live in NJ, my wife lives in D.C.
The shop (strangely enough) is down in DC - where the space is,
and where my weekends are spent.  The "business" is in the
process of being formed in DC.  However, I'll have to declare
NJ state taxes, and she declares DC taxes.  Can we then file
jointly for federal tax?  If not, how does this affect the 
business?  How do I indicate my expenses to NJ?

I know I should get a good tax guy - I'm looking.  I am just
curious as to some of the problems/solutions that others have
encountered along the way.

Advice as to a good DC or NJ tax guy would also be appreciated.

Bill Millios
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: micki@netcom.com (Michelle Stone)
Subject: What is the diff between an tilt arbor and table saw?
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 07:44:28 GMT


Thanks to all of you who helped me clear up my muddled mind
on cabinet saws.

But now... what is a tilting arbor saw?

Thanks... as always

MIchelle

-- 
micki@netcom.com

By the way.  I find myself to be a recent addition to the 
unemployment statistic.  I am a software manager.  If  you know
of an opportunity, please let me know!
From: sgarcia@cisco.com (Steven Garcia)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Louvered shutters
Date: 21 Dec 92 18:09:01 GMT
Organization: cisco Systems, Incorporated
NNTP-Posting-Host: lager.cisco.com

Has anyone ever built a set of louvered shutters?

It doesn't seem THAT difficult (famous last words).  Making the components
seems straightforward.  Assembling the louvers into a functional, cohesive
unit is perhaps the difficulty.

I know Woodsmith had an article sometime ago about making non-movable louvered
doors.  I need mine movable.

I'd appretiate any experiencial wisdom.

Steve Garcia
     (415) 688-7642)
     <sgarcia@cisco.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: quoctp@cs.toronto.edu (Quoc Tuan Pham)
Subject: Jointing Wide Boards
Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of Toronto
Distribution: na
Date: 31 Dec 92 01:12:01 GMT

I have access to an old 4" jointer. However the boards that I want to
joint are 5-6" and turning them around on this narrow jointer would cause
a bow in the middle. Is there a way to get a flat surface? Thanks for your
advice.
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-VMS-To: IN%"WOODWORK%IPFWVM.BITNET@pucc.Princeton.EDU"
MIME-version: 1.0
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 21 Dec 1992 15:24:30 -0800
From:         RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM
Subject:      Re: Safest way to use radial arm saw?

My ex father-n-law (a craftsman by traid) had a technique for increasing
ras safety.

When pulling the carrage forward he would lock his arm strate at the elbow
and do all the pulling with his sholder and back. If the blade grabs and tries
to jump forward it has to push your whole boddy back (pretty hard to do) insted
of just buckel (your already bent arm) at the elbow.

I've been doing this for years now and have been saved severaly runnaways
because of it.

                        Ron Tye (all opinions my own)
Xref: sparky rec.woodworking:8670 alt.save.the.earth:1438 talk.environment:5171
From: jjh00@diag.amdahl.com (Joel Hanes)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,alt.save.the.earth,talk.environment
Subject: Re: "Rainforest Destruction Has Many Victims"
Keywords: It depends
Date: 21 Dec 92 20:00:20 GMT
Reply-To: jjh00@diag.amdahl.com
Organization: Amdahl Corporation  Sunnyvale California


  hubcap@hubcap.clemson.edu (System Janitor) writes:
>
>I've heard that (about) 95% of the deforestation is attributable to indigenous
>personnel slash-and-burning for farmland (which is only good for a couple
>of years, and then they move on), and only 5% is due to any kind of
>organized timber industry.

The answer is: it depends.

In Madagascar, and sub-Saharan Africa: probably true.

In Indonesia and the Phillipines: probably false.  Corrupt
   governments in these countries grant huge timber concessions
   to logging firms for more-or-less formalized kickback
   payments (bribes);  often these companies "mine" the
   forests in their concession area for immediate income,
   with little or no thought for environmental impact or
   long-term sustainability of the harvest --
 
   something like the US Forest Service under Watt and Lujan,
   only more so.
 
---
Joel Hanes

   who misses Pamela Hall's well-informed postings on tropical forestry
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: parnass@cbnewse.cb.att.com (Bob Parnass, AJ9S)
Subject: question about transporting a Delta Unisaw
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories, Naperville, IL
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 18:36:07 GMT
Keywords: tool weight, cast iron, rupture, back ache


If you disassembled a Delta Unisaw, how heavy would the heaviest
module be?

I've been thinking about buying a Unisaw but dread the
thought of trying to carry it down to the basement (with
my wife's help).

We've managed to carry down other big power tools but none of
them were as heavy as a Unisaw (400+ lobs).  In the past,
we disassembled the tools in my pickup truck and brought them
downstairs piece by piece.

I'm concerned that the cast iron top is too heavy
as may be the motor and whatever it's bolted to.

Thanks.
-- 
==============================================================================
Bob Parnass, AJ9S  -  AT&T Bell Labs  -  parnass@ihlpm.att.com - (708)979-5414
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bandsaws & Sears flame
Date: 17 Dec 92 19:16:11 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

asket@acad2.alaska.edu writes:
> I just bought a Delta 8" bandsaw, and I love it.  I happened to get a
> great price on it ($130, the store was selling off their Delta tools),
> but even for the more common price of $160-200, I think it's great.
> I'm even using it to do some things I would normally have used my
> piece-of-junk, wish-I-never-bought-it, I'll-never-buy-Sears-again table
> saw for...

Home Depot regular sells that saw (28-180) for $153, fyiw.

Dave
-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
"I look back with some satisfaction on what an idiot I was when I was 25,
 but when I do that, I'm assuming I'm no longer an idiot." - Andy Rooney
From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1992 02:00:34 GMT
Subject: Re: Jointers, Which one to buy?
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

mtb@cray.com (Michael Brown) writes:

>I'm in the market for a six inch jointer and the many choices have got me 
>confused.  
>If my wallet was big enough I'd get the Delta DJ15, I've also looked at the
>Delta six inch motorized unit but I don't care for the short bed and extruded 
>aluminum fence.  So its one of AMT 4183, Jet JJ-6CS, Grizzly G1182, Sunhill CT-60L,
>or Bridgewood BW-6R and BW-6J.  These all have 6x42-52 inch beds, 4x28 inch fences,
>made in Taiwan, and sell for $350 to $450.  I'm looking for opinions and 
>past experiences with any of the above machines.
>
>Quality is my main concern.  In the past I ordered a table saw from AMT and found
>the castings to be rough and pitted - they did honor their 20 day return policy.
>
>Any input would be appreciated - Thanks.

  I bought the Jet.

  It is a very nice jointer.  It took about 45 minutes to set up (with
  interruptions).  The tables came flat and dead co-planar.  The blades
  were correctly installed but one had a nick in it.   I did nothing
  about that.

  I filed out the throat to give a little more clearance end-to-end for
  the blades, and filed out the groove that the fence tracks in to make
  it slide more smoothly across the top.

  I also filed a few edges down to make them smoother and less likely to
  tear skin.

  After adjusting the fence to 90 degrees and 45 degrees, it pretty much
  stays there.   I found the 90 degree stop inconvenient to adjust, so I
  put  a longer bolt in the same hole and trimmed a little metal way from
  the guard on the back of the fence to make room.  This is a strictly
  optional change. 

  I put boards up to 6 feet long on the jointer and I get perfectly flat
  faces and nicely squared edges.  I have cut rabbets, etc.
 
  If you are willing to put up with the possibility of sending back a
  defective unit, I would say go with the Grizzly, as some have said it
  is a good jointer and it is definitely cheaper than the Jet.   However,
  there is a Jet distributer here in the Bay Area, and I wanted to buy
  a tool I could put my hands on before purchase and try, to make sure I
  liked it. 

  You should also look into the Reliant brand, and there is another brand,
  Vulcan, which is distributed by Post Tools which is worth considering.
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: HELP: Looking for info on exotic hardwoods (mail order woes)
Date: 28 Dec 92 19:10:27 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.


On the note of hardwoods - does anyone know of a good supplier of hardwoods
in the central NJ area?

Dave
-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
"I look back with some satisfaction on what an idiot I was when I was 25,
 but when I do that, I'm assuming I'm no longer an idiot." - Andy Rooney
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: redman@plate.megatek.com (Tim Redfield)
Subject: Building cabinets
Organization: Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 22:21:42 GMT


I have some cabinets along one wall of my kitchen that i would
like to extend to form a "L" along the perpendicular wall.  Can
anyone recommend a good book to refer to?  Also, any tips/things
to avoid would be welcomed with open arms.  Thanx in advance.



-- 
Tim Redfield          UUCP: {uunet, ucsd, sun}!megatek!redman
                      INTERNET:            redman@megatek.com
Megatek Corporation  9645 Scranton Rd.  San Diego, Ca.  92121
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: fred@mks.com (Fred Kratky)
Subject: Re: Jointers, Which one to buy?
Keywords: jointer
Organization: Mortice Kern Systems Inc., Waterloo, Ontario, CANADA
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1992 16:37:44 GMT

I just remembered some advice I received on Jointers that I have never
seen repeated on the net.  This comes from a guy who has a small
commercial shop.

He said that the gap between the infeed and outfeed table (where the
blades are) should be no more than x inches wide (I think he said two
inches, but I can't remember for sure).  He said the smaller the gap is,
the less likely you are to have accidents.  He was very serious.

Anyone care to comment on this?
-- 
     ||  // // ,'/~~\'   Fred Kratky		fred@mks.com 
    /||/// //|' `\\\     Mortice Kern Systems Inc.     (519) 884-2251
   / | //_// ||\___/     35 King St. N., Waterloo, Ont., Can. N2J 2W9
From: Eric Kasten
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: coloured stains for kids blocks
Date: 23 Dec 92 04:11:48 GMT
Organization: Michigan State University
NNTP-Posting-Host: tigger.cl.msu.edu

You might try using acrylic artist's paint diluted with some 	
water.  I've stained some projects that I wanted colored by
simply painting on the diluted mixture and then wiping off
the extra with a rag.  Does a pretty nice job, and you get 
all sorts of colors, and you can mix them to create other
colors as well.  Additionally, on most of these paints you
will find a little label indicating whether it's certified
as being non-toxic (kind of nice when coloring toys).  Most
of these paints are art intstitute certified non-toxic and the
few that are toxic are labeled with a skull-and-cross-bones sort
of thing.  The only thing is that they are a little expensive,
however, a little of these paints goes a long way also.

.....Eric Kasten    Tigger@ibm.cl.msu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stevenj@microsoft.com (Steven Johnson)
Subject: Re: making mortises
Date: 31 Dec 92 19:02:34 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp.
Summary: Drill presses

In article <1992Dec30.154907.6227@hubcap.clemson.edu>, walt@eng.clemson.edu (Walter B. Ligon III) writes:
> In article 16624@rtsg.mot.com, mehrpuya@rtsg.mot.com (Djamschid Mehrpuyan) writes:
> >
> If you are going to buy a drill press, The Delta 16 inch is a good as any and at
> a reasonable price.  I have a very similar Jet.  Be ware of rock-bottom prices,
> unless you can look before you buy.  Catalog pictures can fool you!  Also, remember,
> mortising may require precision not afforded by rock-bottom prices.
> 
> Walt






I'd change that to "The Delta 16 inch is a(s) good as any *of the other
Taiwanese imports.*"


There are many vastly superior drill presses for hundreds of dollars more, 
with features like variable speed, production feed or foot feeds, greater
capacity, more hefty bearings, greater accuracy, longer throw, etc., etc.

One option perspective press purchasers may want to be aware of is to
buy a reconditioned Delta pr Powermatic drill press from the 1930's-
1950's.  This option costs more than an import but less than the current
generation of production Delta's/PM's.  There are several outfits (mostly
on the east coast) that perform the finding and reconditioning work; they
advertise in FWW and Woodworking News, among other places.

I bought a 1940's Delta 17 inch press this way, with foot feed and brand
new spindle and Jacob's chuck.  The press looked like new when I got it --
completely refinished including paint, grease, new bearings, etc.  This 
machine is much superior in construction to any Taiwanese import today,
and has runout so low I can't measure it with my dial indicator.  The
machine is beautiful to look at and performs perfectly.  I have a 
variable speed DC motor driving it -- VS from 0 to 3600 RPM with full
torque at all speeds (0 not having much torque :^)  ).  Cost for
all of this was $1100 for the press and $200 more for the motor and
controller.  This includes delivery.  

If you're about to buy a press, check this option out.

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: "Rainforest Destruction Has Many Victims"
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 22:05:44 GMT

gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz) writes:
: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson) writes:
:    
: >This is certainly true in Brazil. I don't know about all the other
: >countries.  Another fact - the rate of deforestation in Brazil has
: >been at the rate of 0.5%/year.
: 
:    Could you please cite a reference for this "fact"?

I believe that it was in National Geographic's "On Assignment", on
PBS. 

: >The greatest worry is loss of topsoil.
: 
:    I hate to say it, Bill, but this sounds more like an opinion.
:    I have heard a number of experts indicate that loss of the forest
:    and species diversity is the greatest worry.

It would be, if the deforestation was fast enough. It isn't - not in
Brazil. 

Maybe someone else can remember which show it was on, and when. You
would then be able to get a copy from PBS.

Bill
From: z_kennedypc@ccsvax.sfasu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Help for a NOVICE father to be.
Date: 30 Dec 92 08:48:07 CST
Organization: Stephen F. Austin State University

Hello everyone,
I am new to this feed and also to woodworking.  I am also an expectant father
come July.  I was wondering if anyone out there has any easy, efficient, and
look-worth-something plans for a crib as well as a beginner's list of necessary
handtools needed for woodworking.  My hopes in this project are

1.  Only handtools.  No electronic items.
2.  No nails.
3.  Safety for my new child (son if she knows what she is doing).
4.  Cost workable.

Thanks for your time and responses.

Paul Kennedy
z_kennedypc@ccsvax.sfasu.edu
Physics Graduate Student

P.S. The above was to hint at my almost total lack of practical talent.

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ericb@microsoft.com (Eric Brown)
Subject: Re: SHOP SAFETY - AIR QUALITY
Date: 23 Dec 92 23:28:59 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp
Keywords: AIR, DUST

GRAHAM CHEESEMAN writes:
|While I am very attentive to wearing ear protectors and safety glasses while 
|using stationary power tools,  I limit respirator usage to finishing.  I 
|realize that organic vapors pose a threat to health, but what about fine 
|wood dust?  Should woodworkers use dust protection and if so what type 
|of filter is adequate?  Is the dust from certain wood species more harmful 
|than that from others?  Like many DIYs, I work in a small basement with 
|limited air circulation, so the dust can become a nuisance, but is it 
|harmful?

Many years ago I read an article in a furniture manufacturing trade
journal reporting on a study conducted in the UK.  The study examined
the incidence of lung cancer in furniture workers and compared it to the
general population.  There was a statistically significant increase in
incidents.  I doubt (without hard evidence) that wood dust is as irritating
as asbestos, but I do wear a respirator when generating lots of fine dust,
for instance, when power sanding.


-- 
    Eric
               Microsoft Systems, Advanced Systems Development
            {sun, uw-beaver, apple, uunet, fluke}!microsoft!ericb 
                       internet: ericb@microsoft.com
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: SHOP SAFETY - AIR QUALITY
Date: 21 Dec 92 20:39:08 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA

gnc@ace.acadiau.ca (GRAHAM CHEESEMAN) writes:
: While I am very attentive to wearing ear protectors and safety glasses while 
: using stationary power tools,  I limit respirator usage to finishing.  I 
: realize that organic vapors pose a threat to health, but what about fine 
: wood dust?  Should woodworkers use dust protection and if so what type 
: of filter is adequate?  Is the dust from certain wood species more harmful 
: than that from others?  Like many DIYs, I work in a small basement with 
: limited air circulation, so the dust can become a nuisance, but is it 
: harmful?

Wood dust is not good for you - wear a dust mask.

Some woods are rather toxic. I do not have my references handy, so cannot
give specifics. Also, some people have allergic reactions to certain types
of wood.

Bill
From: apoyner@as.arizona.edu (Tony Poyner)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Finishing Walnut Wed, 23 Dec 1992
Date: 23 Dec 92 16:33:40 GMT
Reply-To: apoyner@as.arizona.edu
Organization: MMT Observatory, Univ.of Arizona

In article 01GSNHFM79UO000F1R@IRUCCVAX.UCC.IE, Oliver_Nash@IRUCCVAX.UCC.IE (Oliver Nash) writes:
> It is also a
>very good sealant which is important for walnut because woodworm love the
>sweatness of it. (it has a lot of sugar in it).

Woodworm is one of the joys of the UK that I don't miss at all here in the 
US.  I've never seen evidence of them here, do they exist here?

(They are little critters that bore a small 3/32" hole in your furniture
then burrow all around inside the wood.  Usually you know they are there
by little piles of wood dust on the floor.  Or when your table falls over!)

---
Tony Poyner                               apoyner@as.arizona.edu
Multiple Mirror Telescope Observatory     Tel   (602) 621-5185
Univ. of Arizona, Tucson, AZ 85721        Fax   (602) 670-5740
From: cf036@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (G. Gary Preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: 3 phase question
Date: 2 Jan 1993 19:37:30 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc10.ins.cwru.edu


In answer to Chip, Seriously Confused:

What actually is happening in a three-phase converter is that the
converter is acting as a rotary transformer.  The incoming
single phase acts as one phase of the three outgoing three
phases.  It also energizes (by magnetic coupling) the magnetic
vector in the rotor, which then couples magnetically to the
other two phase windings of the converter.  Thus the third
output wire is 120 degrees electrically from the incoming two
legs.  The capacitor helps start the converter and also
compensates for some magnetic lag in the winding-rotor-winding
coupling.  Thus, to build it right, you have to compute the
actual currents at full load
and size the capacitor accordingly.

G.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ericb@microsoft.com (Eric Brown)
Subject: Re: Cabinet saws... what are they?
Date: 28 Dec 92 21:54:25 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp

In article  apoyner@as.arizona.edu writes:
|In article 29874@microsoft.com, ericb@microsoft.com (Eric Brown) writes:
|>A cabinet saw is a specific type of table saw with the following
|>defining characteristic: the motor hangs more or less below the arbor
|>rather than behind it and is thus mostly enlosed by the cabinet/base.
|>The cabinet/base is a floor standing unit that is totally enclosed,
|>although there is sometimes an opening in the side that exposes the
|>fan end of the motor, I presume for cooling.  You can usually get a
|>cover for this opening so that the blade, motor, and mechanism is
|>completely enclosed.  This facilitates the use of a dust collector
|>to remove the generated dust.  In fact, most cabinet saws have a
|>4" dust collector duct built into the cabinet near the bottom.
|>
|>Cabinet saws are usually heavier and more powerful than the
|>typical bench style (e.g. contractor's) table saw, with several
|>drive belts instead of one.  The castings that support the motor and
|>arbor are much heavier as are the arbor and its bearings.
|>
|
|I thought the major difference is that cabinet saws support the arbor 
|assembly by attaching it to the base of the saw, and the table bolts 
|on top.  As opposed to a contractor's saw where the arbor assembly
|is attached to and is supported by the table. 

Well, gee, I don't know if this is the exclusive definition, but it certainly
can be added to my enumeration above.  I also should have not used the
word "defining" above, since I do not claim to be the last word on the
subject.  It seems that most woodworking terms have evolved through the
everyday usage of woodworkers, so they are by nature somewhat imprecise.


-- 
    Eric
               Microsoft Systems, Advanced Systems Development
            {sun, uw-beaver, apple, uunet, fluke}!microsoft!ericb 
                       internet: ericb@microsoft.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,alt.save.the.earth,talk.environment