HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: steveo@think.com (stephen anthony)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: tail vises
Date: 14 Oct 1992 21:49:05 GMT
Organization: Thinking Machines Corporation, Cambridge MA, USA
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: custard.think.com

I got to thinking about tail vises the other day (software design specs
will do that every now and then), and I tried to consider the relative
merits of the tail vise Norm used when he built his workbench  versus the
tail vise that he has on his Ulima workbench (the same basic design as the
one on Tage Frid's bench design in Vol 3 of his books). 

Norm's design is a simple block with dog holes that rides in a track. The
block is connected to a screw for un/tightening. Frid's is a much more
complex 'L' shaped block, one leg of which has dog holes, and thru which
the screw passes. There is also a guide strip on this leg. The other leg is
used to provide a second guide strip to assure alignment.

My question is, which design is better and why? Certainly, Frid's design is
more frequently seen in top quality benches, hence, is considered the better
design. But how much better is it?

Crude Ascii:
-- 
Steve Anthony                     |  "Ain't nobody gettin' outta here |
Software Engineer              	  |   with out singin' the blues"     |
(617) 234-4000                    |                                   |
steveo@think.com                  |  - Albert "The Iceman" Collins    |
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jfh@cs.brown.edu (John F. Hughes)
Subject: Re: How do I bend an oak 4x4? (rounding it afterwards)
Organization: Brown University Department of Computer Science
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 21:56:50 GMT

In article <1992Oct10.230618.5476@u.washington.edu> whit@milton.u.washington.edu (John Whitmore) writes:
>In article <1992Oct7.013906.27309@unixg.ubc.ca> daniel@redwood.ppc.ubc.ca (Daniel Ouellet) writes:
>>In article <1992Oct6.022902.6699@u.washington.edu>, whit@milton.u.washington.edu (John Whitmore) writes:

>>> [Try to bend circle arc by "bowing" with a tension line.]

>>     ... you can't produce a circular arc by applying forces at both ends.

>	The rope clamp will produce a sine wave shape, which is
>noncircular (as you suggest).  To produce a circular arc would
>require torque applied at both ends and nowhere in the middle, which
>is not (IMHO) feasible for a stack of boards.
>
>	The arc required was gentle (4" on 8'), and over such a 
>span the variation from a sine to a circular arc is very small.

I'm not sure I agree. If we believe that a 4" thick board, bent 4" out of true
on an 8' span is effectively a "thin plate", then the shape it takes on will
be the graph of a parametric cubic, and not a (co)sine curve. (The cubic is
probably x(t) = t, y(t) = 1 - t^2/2, i.e. the first two terms of the Taylor
series for cosine...) I *do* agree the the difference between this and the 
circle arc is small. For example, they agree to second order...

-John
From: erickson@atlas.cs.nps.navy.mil (David Erickson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta contractor's saw
Date: 7 Oct 92 19:52:02 GMT
Organization: Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey CA

In article <WOODWORK%92100712001592@IPFWVM.BITNET> dfarr@ASRR.ARSUSDA.GOV (DAVID FARR) writes:
>I asked Delta about the alignment of the slots with the blade.  This is
>a factory setting.  If the saw does not meet the manufactures
>specifications then you will have to return saw to Delta for realignment.

It is not too hard to do the alignment.  The trunions mount to the underside
of the table with four bolts.  The two in back are easy to get to, the others
require a bit of dexterity (a universal joint socket on a 12" extension
is helpful).  Just loosen the bolts and shift the trunions a smidge.  Takes
a few tries, but it isn't hard to get it to .001".

-Dave Erickson
From: tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re:      Red Oak in Bulk
Date: 10 Oct 92 00:46:16 GMT
Distribution: usa,world
Organization: University of Arizona UNIX Users Group

In article <1992Oct9.162910.15124@clpd.kodak.com> obrien@serum.kodak.com writes:
>|> In article <08OCT92.09394003.0029.MUSIC@SJUMUSIC>,         ZGDSHSE <ZGDSHSE@SJUMUSIC.BITNET> writes:
>|> > 
>|> > Hi Fellow Woodworkers -
>|> > 
>|> > I am trying to justify buying a planer by purchasing wood that
>|> > is dried, but not finished on any side.
>|> 
>|> Bill Sloan
>
>There needs to be other reasons, for me at least, to purchase a planer
>other than trying to save money. Consider these figures:
> My local woodshop sells white oak, 4/4 in the rough for $3.20/bf. The
>planed stuff sells for $3.30/bf. Therefore, inorder to justify
>purchasing a $300 10" planer of some sort, you will need to plane over
>937 board feet of this wood at these prices. This is $3000 worth of
>wood.

Excellent arguement.   I bought a thickness planer* because I wanted one, and 
had 1/2 of a tax refund check burning a hole...   Nowadays I use it a lot 
and love it.   But not for the purposes of saving money on rough cut lumber.

I just made a chest about 2' long by 16" wide by 1' deep.  In my opinion
standard 3/4" thick stock would look clunky, so I planed it down to 1/2"
thick.  It seems to visually balance better (IMNSHO).   When I make dividers
I resaw boards in halves or thirds and then plane them down to 1/4" or 3/16".  
Thats a nice divider - 3/4" is not a divider!   

The planer does work nicely on rough stock...  but that's actually my
least common usage of it.  I use it as a thickness planer, instead of
as a surface planer.

*12" Delta - I love it. It works great. I have no experience with
others, so I can't compare.  Knives easy to change and align.
From: hsc@sybase.com (Howard Cohen)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: A Sharp Find
Date: 12 Oct 92 20:03:25 GMT
Distribution: ba
Organization: Sybase, Inc.

I was at Urban Ore today (in Berkeley), and came across a great deal (which I
snarfed).  It was a 16" X 2" grinding wheel.  I got it for about $135.  It was
complete with a 1/3 hp motor, and an excellent steel stand.  One side of the 
stone says "Lombard & Co, Boston Mass".  The other side says "Genuine Nova 
Scotia Stone".

Does anybody know anything about this stone?  There's no obvious provision for
using water.  Its not clear what the grit is, but its pretty fine.  Any ideas?
Is there any way to determine if I should use water with this kind of stone?
Anything I should know about using this kind of stone?  It has a pair of
pulleys which reduce the speed.

	Howard
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  Howard "I wood if I could" Cohen
  hsc@sybase.com  {pacbell,pyramid,sun,{uunet,ucbvax}!mtxinu}!sybase!hsc
  Sybase, Inc.    6475 Christie Avenue, Emeryville, CA 94608, 510-596-3406 
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Wed, 7 Oct 1992 10:20:51 EDT
From:         "Robert J. Milevski" <milevski@PRINCETON.EDU>
Subject:      Highly Tangential Woodworking Query

Does anyone out there in the woodworking net know of a listserv or
bulletin board dealing with auto repair?  One of our cars has a
problem that the dealers, mechanics and manufacturer hasn't been able
to solve.  So I need the advice of those with similar circumstances.
Please reply to me directly.  Thanks.  Robert.
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How do I bend an oak 4x4? (rounding it afterwards)
Date: 15 Oct 92 03:54:20 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

Are we still on this subject?  Oh good.

Today I saw, at a mall, a handrail that consisted of 4" diameter oak
cylinder, curved as tight as a 8' radius or so.

Pretty neat looking.

You might ask at a handrail installer.  I'm sure that they have
to custom-curve it.  They might be able to supply it premade, or
tell you how to do it, or provide the machining if you supply rough.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
From: rhaar@albert.cs.gmr.com (Bob Haar)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Table saw blade guard usage
Date: 14 Oct 92 13:52:03 GMT
Reply-To: rhaar@albert.cs.gmr.com
Organization: G.M. Research and Environmental Staff

In article 16495@news.arc.nasa.gov, doshay@ursa.arc.nasa.gov (David Doshay) writes:
|>I use the splitter and anti-kickback pawls, but not the (not so) clear
|>plastic blade guard. I feel that I get essentially all the safety and
|>then I get to see where the blade is too.
|>

Do you wear eye/face protection? If not, you should.

I always use the splitter, anit-kickback pawls AND the blade guard
on all curts where I can. This doesn't apply in some cases
such as cutting dados or tenons where the guards would get in the
way or when I use my shop-built sliding cutoff table (but that includes
its own blade guards).

I also wear a saftey face shield when using stationary power tools
and goggles when using portable ones.


---
	Robert Haar               InterNet : rhaar@gmr.com 
	Computer Science Dept., G.M. Research and Environmental Staff
DISCLAIMER: Unless indicated otherwise, everything in this note is
personal opinion, not an official statement of General Motors Corp.


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: Biscuit Joiners
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 23:17:47 GMT

John Bean writes
> In article <9210061908.AA05769@edwards-scy.af.mil>,  
jjohnson@EDWARDS-SCY.AF.MIL (Jim Johnson 7-9535 (6518 TS/EN)) writes:
> |> 
> |>       Related to this, does anyone know what "NORM" uses on NYW?
> 
> Recently he has been using the Bosch (or is it Elu ?). It is the one that the
> motor pivots down to make the cut. I remember him using the Porter Cable
> before also (the one with the D-handle).

I believe Norm started with the Elu, then went to the Porter-Cable (although
I may have these two backwards), and even did some later projects with the
Delta stationary BJ.

I didn't hear from any netters who owned the Elu last time I asked.
Angled cuts, and cuts in small pieces are particularly difficult with
it, although the adjustability of the blade is useful for thinner stock
than 4/4.

The PC BJ owners seem to either love it or hate it. Those that love it
love the D handle and the belt drive's quietness. Those that hate it hate
the play in the base slide and the difficultly of adjusting the fence.

I bought the Delta stationary BJ. I'd be glad to email my impressions to 
anyone interested.


- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com

"And remember this - there's no more important safety rule than to wear
these: safety glasses."
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: need help using a scraper
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 19:17:50 GMT

Sean Klingler writes
>... Help!!!!!  I think I am having trouble
> sharpening it.  


Here's a technique I learned from a recent FWW; it requires a stationary
belt sander (or a portable clamped upside down):

Forget the file, waterstones, and burnisher. Put the finest grit belt 
you have on (I use 320 grit). Turn the sander on (use the lowest speed
you've got) and lower the scraper on the belt, holding it at about an 
95 degree angle, with the top "behind" the bottom (a spot on the belt 
passes under the bottom edge before it passes under the top edge). Make
sure you do the whole edge (I angle the scraper to the direction of the
belt), which should be flat but a 95 degree angle. Go to the wood and 
hold the scraper at about an 80 degree angle (with the top in "front"
of the bottom) and scrape away. 

                *!* Important Caveats *!*

1) The belt sander takes material off the scraper fast with this
   technique. You might make the scraper difficult to get in shape for
   a conventional sharpening technique (ie. ruin the scraper).
2) Watch out - the scraper can get hot if you get too ambitious.
3) The quality of your edge, and thus the quality of the shavings it
   produces, increases with the grit of paper you use. If you try this
   with a 100 grit or coarser belt, don't expect this to leave a 
   really nice finish (but it might be good for glue scraping).
4) The edge won't last as long as the conventional burnished technique,
   but it's so much faster to sharpen that I think overall down time
   is reduced.
5) You can't sharpen both sides of the same edge with this technique.

I use a belt-sander-sharpened scraper for initial scraping. I sometimes
use a different, conventionally sharpened scraper for the final
critical pass.

Purists are probably cringing at this. But if you're getting discouraged
trying to sharpen your scraper and are about to give up, I'd recommend 
trying it out. Once you see how well this things works, you'll be
ready to take yet another stab at traditional scraper sharpening.

BTW, the Veritas burnishing jig does work quite well for the burnishing
part of the traditional sharpening process.

Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: Dado Blades?
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 21:34:46 GMT

ALEX@NKI.BITNET (Bill Alexander) writes:
: One problem with my Craftsman stacking set in the grove that results from
: the blades being slightly larger than the chippers. I know this is
: intentional, but does this bother anyone else? A cabinet maker told me to
: take the set to a sharpener to have the blades ground down to the same height
: as the chippers. Has anyone done this?

Nope. I just spend a few minutes with a chisel to clean out the bottom of
the dado. The difference is there to minimize chipping/tear-out of the
work.

Bill
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Dado Blades?
Date: 16 Oct 92 17:08:50 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

In article <1992Oct15.123108.14721@meaddata.com> stever@meaddata.com (Steve Rothenberg) writes:
>Has there been any talk about a reccomendation for dado blades,
>in particular, wobble blades? 
>I was kind of surprised at prices for Craftsman blades.
>a 10-inch wobble is 100.00, and the leas expensive was 50 for
>a 7-inch.
>
>Even regular chippers are 55.00 . Any other brands that are good?


I picked up a stacking dado set at Home Depot for $27.  It is an
Oldham brand, plain steel (i.e. not carbide) and is, I think, 6 inches.
I also picked up a wobble type, which I think is also Oldham, for under
$30 as well (also at Home Depot) that is 8 inches if memory serves.

The carbide tipped stack set was over $100.

While the Oldham stuff is nothing to write home about, I find it
serviceable for my current projects (which have all been pine or
plywood up to this point).  I'd prefer carbide, but am trying to
be a bit less extravagant in my spending right now ;-).

Dave
-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
The heart and the mind on a parallel course, never the two shall meet.
						-E. Saliers
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Paint shavers
Date: 16 Oct 92 18:44:20 GMT
Article-I.D.: hpcvaac.1992Oct16.184420.10564
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA

wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy) writes:
: 
: 	Second, I'm kinda confused about why everyone is asking what kind of
: house I have.  First of all, I don't think anyone would want to use high-speed
: rotating blades to remove paint from brick.  Or aluminum.   And in my original
: post, I said that the ad claims that the shaver uses three rotating blades
: that "shave" the paint off the wood.  So I guess I have wood siding.  And this
: is rec.WOODWORKING.  Would it have made that much difference if I said I had
: wood clapboards as opposed to wood shingles or shakes?  I assumed it wouldn't.
: But, such is the nature of Usenet: don't assume!

It does make a difference.  For example, just about any design of scraper would
probably work with clapboards. Many designs would not work well with board
and batten siding - unless the boards/battens were quite wide. There is a good
chance that no design would work with shingles or shakes.

Bill
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ggibeau@ucqais.cba.uc.edu (George G. Gibeau)
Subject: Re: Using a drill press as a lathe
Organization: University of Cincinnati, College of Business
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 06:15:18 GMT

In <279@talgras.UUCP> david@talgras.UUCP (David Hoopes) writes:
>Hello,
>    I have seen a gadget in a catalog that allows you to use a 
>drill press as a small vertical lathe.  I need to make a couple
>of handles for socket chisels, and have been thinking about trying
>it on the drill press since I don't have a lathe (yet).
>    Has anyone used one of these gadgets before?  How did it work?
>Any comments?

You may want to check out the September issue of ShopNotes (Issue 5).
It contains a nice article on making a turning jig to use with
a drill press in order to turn small objects (in particular tool
handles).  They even go into how to adapt screw drivers for the
scrapers.

ShopNotes is the sister companion to Woodsmith.  The two make a very
good combination of no-nonense information and designs.

>---------------------------------------------------------------------
>David Hoopes                              Tallgrass Technologies Inc. 
>david@tallgrass.COM                       11100 W 82nd St.          
>Voice: (913) 492-6002 x323                Lenexa, Ks  66214        


Regards,

George Gibeau
-- 
George Gerald Gibeau, Jr.   ggibeau@ucqais.uc.edu
University of Cincinnati    Department of Biological Sciences
Ecologists - we'll save the world, even if it kills you.
From: aff@j.cc.purdue.edu (Doug Garwood)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Mechanical Parts Catalog
Date: 12 Oct 92 18:59:36 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Purdue University

Some months ago someone posted an article about a company that
supplied mechanical parts (gears, bearings, knobs, etc.).  The
article referenced a catalog number and possibly provided an
800 number and address.  My recollection says that the company
name started with a 'B', but that could be incorrect.

Does anyone remember this or know of such a company (I'm sure there
are several)?  If so, could you please mail me a note.

Thanks
Doug Garwood
Internet: aff@j.cc.purdue.edu
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Yep, wood does move!
Date: 9 Oct 92 00:47:25 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ

In article <1992Oct8.220239.21808@adobe.com> bennett@adobe.com writes:

>It is also possible that the pine you used hadn't been properly dried.
>This is common in stud lumber, for instance.

If, by chance, you picked it up at Home Depot, this is very likely. The
local outlet is currently selling green fir (properly labeled). Down
the aisle a piece they have the kiln dried stuff. If you don't read the
labels carefully, you can get some stuff that hasn't been dried at all.

I don't know if they're marketing green pine, though. Haven't bought
any lately.

patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | "Unfair Competition": Selling cheaper than we do.
George Patterson -  | "Note and Initial": Let's spread the responsibility
                    |    for this.
                    |         Kelvin Throop - The Management Dictionary
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 16 Oct 1992 11:38:11 -0500
From:         Jeff Roberts <JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.BITNET>
Subject:      Sharpening Carving Tools

Dear Woodchucks,

I have recently acquired a set of carving chisels and used them to turn out a
decent project.  I have several problems/questions:

01. The bevel on all the chisels seems to be way too aggressive, is it normal
    procedure to grind them down to a much shallower angle?  This is what my
    mind tells me but my heart is unsure.

02. I've been able to keep them reasonably sharp but can't seem to get that
    mirror finish I've seen somewhere before.  Could somebody post their pet
    sharpening method from biginning to end?  Including all types of stones,
    grits, holding method etc.....especially on gouges, how is it held?

03. There must be a procedure for getting a dull chisel back to a sharp chisel
    and there must also be a procedure to keep them sharp as you work.
    What procedures do you use?

Thanks in advance for the pointers,

Jeff Roberts JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.EDU
From: macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Table saw brands
Date: 16 Oct 92 19:18:17 GMT
Article-I.D.: lakatos.MACRAKIS.92Oct16121817
Organization: OSF Research Institute

I'll soon be buying a new table saw (my first).

I plan to be doing a lot of casework (bookshelves, cabinets) and
little fine joinery (no dovetails, some fingerjoints).  I expect to
have most of my sheet stock cut down at the lumberyard (Boulter
Plywood is nearby), since they have good, precise panel saws, but I
will occasionally want to start with 4x8 and cut it down myself.

So it looks like I need a good basic table saw.  I am trying to stay
under $600.  So far, good bets appear to be the Reliant (Trendlines)
10" table saw ($350), the Grizzly equivalent, the inexpensive Delta,
and the Ryobi BT3000.  The BT3000 seems very nice in many ways, but I
wonder if it will be practical in combination with an extension table.
Another possibility is to buy a used Delta or Powermatic from the want
ads.  There are a lot of them out there.  My main hesitation is that I
have no experience in tuning a table saw....

What's the net's advice?  In particular, what are the relative
advantages of Delta, Reliant, and Grizzly at the same price?  Reliant
and Delta have the advantage of being available at (discount) retail
locally (Trendlines etc.).

	-s
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: julian@vscn08.cern.ch (Julian James Bunn)
Subject: Oak Parquet Floor Woes
Keywords: parquet oak
Reply-To: julian@vscn08.cern.ch (Julian James Bunn)
Organization: CERN European Lab for Particle Physics
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 11:14:09 GMT


Maybe this is not appropriate for this group, but here goes anyway:

I have an oak parquet floor which is of the "floating" type i.e. not glued
to the (concrete) floor, but resting on a layer of felt. This was installed
professionally, with a sensible gap of around 1 cm. between the edges and the
walls (to allow for expansion and contraction). Unfortunately, a leak from a
washing machine soaked the under-floor felt, and after a while the parquet
began to bow upwards. The wood has clearly absorbed moisture from the felt:
there is no gap now between the parquet edges and the walls. I have tried
to dry out the whole lot by blowing warm air under the parquet, and this
seems to have done some good. But there is still a major bump ! 

I'd appreciate any suggestions on how I might divest the oak of it's absorbed
moisture. Taking up the parquet is a solution I'd desperately like to avoid!

Please email me directly if you have any suggestions ... as is customary, I
will summarize to the group if there is sufficient wisdom.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Julian James Bunn / CERN Computing and Networks Division. Tel.: Geneva 767 5029
Email: julian@vxcrna.cern.ch
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking