HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: srivatsa@karna.Eng.Sun.COM (Chakra Srivatsa)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Renovating old interior doorknobs?
Followup-To: poster
Date: 12 Jan 1993 18:08:19 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Distribution: usa
Reply-To: srivatsa@karna.Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: karna
Keywords: doorknobs

Most of my interior doorknobs are old and show their age.  I am reluctant to
put in new knobs and latches - they seem to run around $10/set.  Is there
a way to renovate them to a shiny brass finish?  Two options come to mind:

1) Paint the knobs with brass paint.  I've seen brass finish paint in some paint
   stores.
2) Some electro-chemical method to recoat the knobs?  I don't know how to find
   out if it's even possible.

Comments, suggestions?

---
The one l lama, he's a priest. 		srivatsa@eng.sun.com
The two l llama, he's a beast.
And I will bet a silk pajama, 
there isn't a three l lllama!		says Ogden Nash

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: kdesai@brtph490.NoSubdomain.NoDomain (Kalpit Desai P265)
Subject: Basement Carpeting.
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 18:24:59 GMT
Distribution: usa
Reply-To: kdesai@bnr.ca
Organization: BNR Inc., RTP, NC 27709

I am in the final stages of finishing my basement. The questions I have
are as follows:

1. Can I fix the baseboard such that it touches the concrete floor. Is 
   there any code that prevents me from doing so. What are the advantages
   and disadvantages of doing it this way ?

2. I am going to get someone to install the carpetting for me. But I want
   to get recommendations of what type of carpet I should install. How
   will the installer affix the carpet to the concrete floor.

Any informations on the installation of the baseboard and carpet on the
basement concrete floor will be gratefully appreciated.

Thanks.

+----------------+------------------------------+------------------------+
| Kalpit Desai   |          BNR Inc.,           |  Voice: (919) 991 7902 |
| kdesai@bnr.ca  |     Research Triangle Park   |  FAX:   (919) 991 7001 |
|                |  North Carolina 27709, U.S.A |  ESN:         294 7902 |
+----------------+------------------------------+------------------------+
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: rstern@col.hp.com (Richard Stern)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: When does it make sense to reduce the pricinple of your home loan?
Date: 11 Jan 1993 21:21:47 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division
Distribution: na
NNTP-Posting-Host: hpcslb1.col.hp.com

>Example:  I have a loan of 8.5%.  I need to be able to get a  pre-tax ROR
> of 11.8% to beat paying off my loan early.
> 
>If your interest is higher, you get a small additional benefit that may
>swing it towards getting the mutual fund.
> 
>Example 2:  Loan amount $100K, interest = 8.5%.  Total interest paid will
>be roughly $8,400, providing an additional tax benefit of about $670.

Once you're itemizing, there are many other things you can deduct. 
Property taxes, state income tax, charitable donations, etc.  These
could easily add up to $4000-$7000 or more.  Assuming $4000 + $8400,
the additional tax benefit is $1792/yr (28% fed tax).  And there is
additional savings on your state taxes.

Richard Stern
rstern@col.hp.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: kaliher@skyler.mavd.honeywell.com
Subject: Re: Tying 2 Switches to Common Load?
Organization: Honeywell Systems & Research Center
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 21:41:16 GMT


> There's another solution- use a low-voltage DC switch in each of 
> the two locations	to control an AC relay at the fan. Simple. 
> Low voltage DC wiring can be happily 	run with abandon.           --mike
> 
Similarly, 115VAC relays could be used, one for each bathroom.  They're 
available at RS for under $10.  Mount them both on a single panel that is 
clearly labeled to indicate that if one relay is picked, the other will 
have line voltage present on the output pin.  Extra relay contacts could 
be used for indicator lights if desired. 
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: jvg@IASTATE.EDU (Gerpen J Van)
Subject: Induced draft gas water heaters?
Keywords: water heaters
Reply-To: jvg@IASTATE.EDU (Gerpen J Van)
Organization: Iowa State University
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 22:37:48 GMT

Has anyone ever heard of an induced draft gas fired water
heater?  I am considering replacing an electric water 
heater with gas but there is no flue pipe.  My gas furnace
just uses PVC pipe through the basement wall and ideally
I would have a similar system for my water heater even
though the flue gases would be considerably warmer.  It 
is not convenient to install a flue in the house since it
is about 40 feet from the heater in the basement to the
roof.  Any suggestions?
From: kl@cveng120.veheng.det (Keith L)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Need Advice on Cleaning Old Bath Tub
Date: 6 Jan 93 21:11:21 GMT
Reply-To: kl@cveng120.veheng.det
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.

Having lived in old houses with old bathtubs most of my life, I would say that that white/yellowish chalky residue is there because most of the smooth enamel outer coating is gone.  In other words, don't try to take it off because it's supposed to be there.  The yellowing is due to crud getting stuck in this rather porous base.  Use muriatic acid (used to clean swimming pools and masonry) to clean it.  Try on small area at first and observe all precautions on the acid container.  I have had luck with boat 


hull cleaner as well (it is composed of oxalic acid and is more expensive). 
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: kevin@.cray.com (Kevin Bluml)
Subject: Vinyl vs. Aluminum vs. other siding
Originator: kevin@snoid
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Distribution: na
Date: 6 Jan 93 14:45:17 CST

I seem to recall a thread on this subject recently,
if there was one, did anyone save the basic discussion?
If there wasn't, does anyone have any opinions
on the pluses/minuses of the various types of sidings
for a house to be built in Minnesota? I'd like
something maintenance free if possible or low maintenance
at least. In other words, I don't want to paint it or
stain it every few years.

Thanks!

-- 
 From:      Kevin V. Bluml  - Cray Research Inc. 612-683-3036   
 USmail -   655 - Lone Oak Drive, Eagan, MN 55121 
 Internet - kevin.bluml@cray.com  UUCP - uunet!cray!kevin
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: stevem@newsbase.cs.yale.edu (Steve Morytko)
Subject: Paying off your mortgage early
Organization: University of Connecticut Computing Center
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 22:53:06 GMT

Some posters have been indicating that they can get better return on their 
dollars by investing in a mutual fund that pays (or rather, historically has 
paid) 9%/year. One major point that seems to be overlooked by this advisor
is that one must pay capital gains (for most of us 28%) on that money when 
we cash in reducing our net to about 6%. Seems to me I'd rather pay off 
the 8.5% mortgage. And (God knows this never happens) you might LOSE money 
in the mutual fund (read STOCK mutual fund because there ain't no money 
market or safe bond funds paying that kind of return!).

I would suggest you read your mortgage contract carefully and also read up 
on US and State tax law. You might find out that there is very little risk 
in paying off that mortgage.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
INTERNET: steve@uconnvm.uconn.edu / BITNET: steve@uconnvm
Voice: 203-486-1405 ; Fax: 203-486-5744
UConn Computer Ctr., 196 Auditorium Rd., Storrs, CT 06269-3138
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: pankaj@synopsys.com (Pankaj Mayor)
Subject: Re: Monitored security system for home
Keywords: home security systems n
Organization: Synopsys, Inc.
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 23:39:14 GMT

>When I spoke with the BRINKS salesperson, I asked what would happen if
>a burgular cut the phone lines before entering the house.  This person
>told me that they would not know about the break-in since the system
>would not be able to call them when the alarm went off.  However, the
>system siren would sound.  (I didn't ask about battery backup, but
>I assume that is possible for the siren to continue if the burgular
>cut the power too.)  When I asked this salesperson why they couldn't
>know when the phone lines were cut, they said that the phone company
>didn't provide that service and that "nobody else could do that either".

The guy from ADT whom I am talking to said he could put a phone line 
cut monitor that basically detects a no-dial tone situation and would
set off the siren even before the break-in happened. I guess there is
not much else you could do unless you go for a high end cellular 
monitoring system.

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: selvin@nynexst.com (Al Selvin)
Subject: Painting on paneling vs. drywall?
Reply-To: selvin@nynexst.com
Organization: NYNEX Science & Technology, Inc.
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 93 14:48:44 GMT

The front hall of the house we recently bought is covered with
1960s-era 1/4" wood paneling (as was most of the rest of the house
until we ripped it down, unless it was beige-floral wallpaper, also
ripped down).

I favor painting over the paneling in the hall because it is in good
shape and well-attached to the walls. My wife favors ripping it
down and putting up drywall, which we are in the middle of doing
in the living room.

Any pros or cons to either approach?

Thanks.

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: okagaki@kafka.SAIC.COM (Karen Okagaki x6515)
Subject: stacked washer/dryer
Organization: SAIC
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 22:07:39 GMT

We are forced to buy a stacked washer/dryer due to
space limitations in the laundry room.

Any recommendations on brands? Any specific ones to
avoid?  Has anyone had any experience with the
Maytag stacked unit?  We want a full-sized washer,
not one of those mini condo units. It must also
be a gas dryer, not electric. 

Price is no object. I want clean clothes.

Karen 
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: paulbx@bnr.ca (Paul Boudreaux)
Subject: Re: Monitored security system for home
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 16:02:26 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Richardson, Tx.
Keywords: home security systems 

I've been looking into a monitored home security system for a new house that
is being built for my family.  The builder is going to pre-wire the house
for a security system.  And I plan to install the electronics, etc. after
I'm in the house. I've called a couple of companies (ADT and BRINKS) so
far, and I plan to call more.  (ADT wanted 195 to install and 19.95 per
month for monitoring and BRINKS wanted 199 to install and 21.95 per
month.)  

When I spoke with the BRINKS salesperson, I asked what would happen if
a burgular cut the phone lines before entering the house.  This person
told me that they would not know about the break-in since the system
would not be able to call them when the alarm went off.  However, the
system siren would sound.  (I didn't ask about battery backup, but
I assume that is possible for the siren to continue if the burgular
cut the power too.)  When I asked this salesperson why they couldn't
know when the phone lines were cut, they said that the phone company
didn't provide that service and that "nobody else could do that either".

The reason I'm concerned about this possiblity is that there was 
a string of voilent break-ins in North Dallas recently in which
the burgulars cut the phone lines before breaking-in.  The central
monitored security system didn't know about the breakin.

I was wondering if anyone knows if any of these central monitored systems
account for the possiblity of a cut phone line.  The salesperson told
me that they would have to connect the security system to a cellular
phone to "overcome" this problem.


-- 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Paul H. Boudreaux	|Bell-Northern Research		|My opinions are my own,
email: paulbx@bnr.ca	|2221 Lakeside Dr. Stop D0206	|not necessarily are
Telephone: (214)684-5838|Richardson, TX  75082		|they BNR's. 
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: hank@well.sf.ca.us (Hank Roberts)
Subject: X-10 (x10), motion detectors, and exhaust fan
Summary: detecting motion, removing tobacco smoke
Keywords: howto?
Organization: Whole Earth 'Lectronic Link
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 01:21:58 GMT


Even better would be an x10 smoke detector that could detect cigarette
smoke and turn on the exhaust fan ....

I'm contemplating getting an expensive x10 motion detector with time
delayed 'off', attaching that to a 'burglar alarm' relay to control
an exhaust fan.  This would go in a room occupied by two chainsmokers,
who are dear friends, so as to pull air out of that room whenever they
are in the room.

Any thoughts welcome ... they don't notice when they are smoking so
can't be relied on to operate an exhaust fan manually in a reliable way.

And I'm in the office next door, with a tobacco allergy, so looking for
a way to automatically, anytime of day/night, turn on the exhaust fans
when they're in that office so the whole larger area doesn't fill with smoke
and get me when I walk in.
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Renovating a 100 yr old home, what's involved?
Date: 12 Jan 93 18:02:20 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

Steve Jackson writes:
>>Questions:
>>- The Plaster/lathe walls have minor cracks and layers upon layers of wall
>>  paper that is peeling in copious amounts.  Would the standard method of
>>  repair be to lay drywall over the existing plaster or does this present
>>  other problems?
>
>It might change the look of any molding/baseboards.  Our house has 6" wide
>molding around the doors and windows, about 1/2" thick.  In the kitchen
>they put sheetrock over the old plaster.  Now the molding is almost flush
>with the wall.  Looks kinda funny.  We'll undo it.  
>
>We'll either strip off the plaster and put sheetrock on top of the lath,
>or take the lath off too, or put up 1/2" plywood and then 1/4" or so
>sheetrock (this last one for our shear walls for earthquakes).  Haven't
>thought that far ahead, actually.

Sounds like a LOT of work to just cure funny looking baseboards.  Allow me
to suggest an alternative.  Go down to your local lumbaryard or hardwood
supplier, and buy some wood of the appropriate species dressed down to
3/8 - 1/2 inch thick, by the width of the existing baseboard.  Then put this
stuff over the existing baseboard.  I'd add some cap molding on top of
that, which would completely hide the old stuff (and is pretty common - I 
can't ever recall seeing just a plain, square baseboard.  Finish it
appropriately.  You then have correctly dimensioned baseboards w/o the
hell of ripping down sheetrock and plaster.

Now windows are another problem altogether...

Dave
-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
"I look back with some satisfaction on what an idiot I was when I was 25,
 but when I do that, I'm assuming I'm no longer an idiot." - Andy Rooney
From: rstern@col.hp.com (Richard Stern)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: When does it make sense to reduce the
Date: 6 Jan 1993 20:43:15 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division
NNTP-Posting-Host: hpcslb1.col.hp.com

johne@PROBLEM_WITH_INEWS_GATEWAY_FILE (John Eaton) writes:
> Take that money out of your 3% Money Market and pay down that 8.5% loan.

Lots of mutual funds are still gaining over 8.5%.  If you can find a
mutual fund that averages even 8.6% over the long term, that's a better
investment than paying off your 8.5% mortgage.  And you can get at the
money if you need it.  Once you've put that money back into your mortgage,
the only way to get it out is to borrow.  If interest rates rise (likely),
you'll be borrowing your money back at the higher rate.

Paying off your 8.5% mortgage is like buying a 20-30 year 8.5% CD.
Maybe it's hard to get 8.5% on your money this year, but will it be
hard to average 8.5% over the next 20 years??  Of course no one knows,
but it's a gamble I'm willing to take.

My 8% mortgage will seem like a joke when/if interest rates hit 15% again!

Richard Stern
rstern@col.hp.com
From: jge@cs.unc.edu (John Eyles)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: When does it make sense to reduce the
Date: 6 Jan 1993 11:39:14 -0500
Organization: The University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill
NNTP-Posting-Host: ceti.cs.unc.edu

In article <C0FvyE.M9z@vcd.hp.com> johne@PROBLEM_WITH_INEWS_GATEWAY_FILE (John Eaton) writes:
>Some people still haven't a clue that the game has completely changed. Tax
>deductions are out. In many cases you are better off taking the standard
>deduction. Change with the times or go the way of the dinosaur.

This probably should go to misc.taxes, but: when are you better off taking
the standard deduction ?  Of course you are if your itemized deductions
add up to more than the standard deuction, but this has always been the
case, independent of what the marginal tax rates are or what inflation is.

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: tamir@lanai.cs.ucla.edu (Yuval Tamir)
Subject: "decommissioning" a pool
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
Date: Sun, 10 Jan 93 20:04:56 GMT

The house has a conventional (concrete, built into the ground, etc) pool.
I am not interested in using a pool and don't want the hassle and
expense of maintaining it.

One option is to completely remove the pool -- break up the concrete, remove
part of the concrete, and fill it up with gravel and soil.
This seems to be very costly -- at least $5,000.

Are there any other options ?
Are there ways of doing this for less money ?

If there is sufficient interest, I will summarize the responses.

			   Yuval Tamir

Internet: tamir@cs.ucla.edu
    UUCP: ...!{uunet,ucbvax,rutgers}!cs.ucla.edu!tamir
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis)
Subject: Re: Mind in the gutter
Organization: OSF Research Institute
Distribution: misc
Date: 11 Jan 93 17:40:57

In article <9301111258.PN16426@LL.MIT.EDU> khamsi@ll.mit.edu (Sarir
   Khamsi) writes:

   Just how bad are leaves in gutters and what are the potential dangers?

The purpose of gutters and downspouts is to keep water off the outside
walls and away from the foundations.

When there are leaves in the gutter, they block the gutter and the
downspouts.  Water then flows over the top of the gutter, and trickles
down the siding or falls onto the ground near the foundation.  Water
trickling down the siding deteriorates the paint and underlying
siding, and can lead to rot.  Water falling on the ground near the
foundation will end up in the basement as puddles or as humidity.  As
it splashes, mud will be sent up the side of the house.  And as G.
Patterson points out, the gutters themselves will also deteriorate.

Clean leaves out of your gutters twice a year, and trim branches back
so they don't overhang your roof.

	-s
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: garyp@rmtc.paramax.com (Gary Palangian [RMTC/ISP])
Subject: Re: "decommissioning" a pool
Organization: Paramax Systems
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 20:41:44 GMT

In article <1993Jan10.200456.5238@cs.ucla.edu>, tamir@lanai.cs.ucla.edu (Yuval Tamir) writes:
|> The house has a conventional (concrete, built into the ground, etc) pool.
|> I am not interested in using a pool and don't want the hassle and
|> expense of maintaining it.
|> 
|> One option is to completely remove the pool -- break up the concrete, remove
|> part of the concrete, and fill it up with gravel and soil.
|> This seems to be very costly -- at least $5,000.
|> 
|> Are there any other options ?
|> Are there ways of doing this for less money ?
|> 
|> If there is sufficient interest, I will summarize the responses.
|> 
|> 			   Yuval Tamir
|> 
|> Internet: tamir@cs.ucla.edu
|>     UUCP: ...!{uunet,ucbvax,rutgers}!cs.ucla.edu!tamir


Hey Now Yuval,

    Dude,  it sounds like you have the beginnings of an
outrageous Summer Party.  Have a pool bustin party.  You
could buy a few kegs and a few sledge hammers.  Invite
lots of dudes and dudettes over.  Require beach wear and
pick the most bodacious babes.  After the first keg, suggest
some pool bashing.  Have the babes ooh and ahh and the dudes
can take turns trying to impress them by bustin' holes in
the side of the pool.  I would go the covert route, but you
could go full flyer.  Then haul away a chunk o' concrete
a day for about 3 or 4 months and you should have a big 
empty hole left.  You could lose the concrete in a convenient
dumpster, or heck, leave it in the street on your way to
the campus... They are great weapons for poor criminals.

    Finally, haul some excrement over from the local dairy and
fill up the puppy.  Cover with top soil and voila, instead
giant flower bed.

I bet the whole deal wouldn't cost more than $1000.

Party On....

Gary P.
From: kl@cveng120.veheng.det (Keith L)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Painting on paneling vs. drywall?
Date: 12 Jan 93 17:22:56 GMT
Reply-To: kl@cveng120.veheng.det
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.

Here's some suggestions that have worked for me.  

1) Fill in the dadoes and cracks in the paneling with drywall joint compound or spackling, sand everything down, prime paint and wallpaper. 

2) Rip the paneling down.  If it was probably put up to cover cracked walls, fill in all major imperfections with joint compound and cover with one of the new paintable wall coverings. (These coverings are made to put up over cracked-plaster and they hide small imperfections while strengthening the wall.) 
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas S. Rand)
Subject: Re: Tying 2 Switches to Common Load?
Organization: Open Software Foundation
	<1993Jan5.230331.8188@porthos.cc.bellcore.com>
	<1993Jan6.175650.24515@donner.SanDiego.NCR.COM>
	<FAUNT.93Jan6122734@netcom.Netcom.COM>
Distribution: na
Date: 7 Jan 93 11:18:47

In article <FAUNT.93Jan6122734@netcom.Netcom.COM> faunt@netcom.Netcom.COM (Doug Faunt N6TQS 510-655-8604) writes:

   Two timers would do the right thing, in parallel.  I suggested that
   he check with his local inspector.  If he still wants to put two
   switches in parallel, and his inspector won't buy it, then he should
   install it with three-way switches, then rewire in parallel after the
   inspector leaves.  The installed wiring is the same, it's just a
   matter of how it's hooked up.
   I'm not familiar enough with the code to know if it's prohibited, or
   not.

The following is strictly my personal opinion.  This is a bad idea.
If the inspector specifically disallows it (which means that he 
will remember looking at it,  that there is a plan at the building
dept. etc) and there is later a problem that causes damage to the
house that can,  in any way,  be trace to what he has done,  the
insurance co. might well not have to pay.  It's one thing to have
done something credible,  and perhaps be ignorant of the exact right
way,  but to be told and then disregard the direction given is 
proof of intent,  and ignorance,  never a great defense,  cannot
be offerred as a reason for the problem.

Remember too that the house will certainly change hands one day, and 
the next person may assume,  to their chagrin,  that the wiring
followed code and was somewhat safe to work on.  Remember that you
will certainly have electricians do work occasionally,  and they
can get hurt as well.

The electrical codes are their for two reasons,  safety and 
fire prevention (safety here too).  Ignore them at your peril.  
Me, personally?, I'm not smart enough to ignore the code.


--
Douglas S. Rand <drand@osf.org>		OSF/Motif Dev.
Snail:         11 Cambridge Center,  Cambridge,  MA  02142
Disclaimer:    I don't know if OSF agrees with me... let's vote on it.
Amateur Radio: KC1KJ
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house