HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: matocha@engr.latech.edu (Kevin Matocha)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: (Datsun Z) Suspension Work on 240
Date: 22 Jan 1993 17:52:49 GMT
Organization: Louisiana Tech University
Distribution: world
Reply-To: matocha@engr.latech.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: aurora.engr.latech.edu

I can't seem to get a message out to the Z-Car mailing list, 
so here goes....

--------------------------------------------------------------------

I finally have my '72 240 running fairly well, so it's about time
to replace the struts and springs.  The driver's side sags terribly,
so I guess that the springs have sprung.  

I've been checking out the catalogs, and I see a lot of the KYB
struts.  Are these things really as good as they say they
are?  Is it worth it to put in the KYB compared to the Wal-Mart
specials? ($45 as opposed to $25-30) 

Also, since the driver's side sags, the tire rubs the fender
panel when making a hard right turn.  All of the springs that
I can find state that they will lower the vehicle about 1".
I think that since the present springs are shot, the replacements
will probably raise the vehicle a bit from where it is now.
I'm looking at the springs from Motorsport Industries for ~$160
per set.  Does anyone have experience with these?

One more thing, how long of a job is it to replace these, and
what else should I do while I'm in there.  I know that I'm going
to flush the brake fluid, but should I repack the bearings, or
anything else?

Thanks,
Kevin

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: fox@cecer.army.mil (Darin Fox)
Subject: Re: Natural Gas for Auto fuel.
Organization: US Army Corps of Engineers Construction Engineering Research Labs
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 19:12:32 GMT

johns@tfs.com (John Stucke) writes:

>I am looking for information on the use of Natural Gas for auto fuel.
>specifically I need information on how to convert an auto to use it.
>I have seen race cars on ESPN running it and have also seen the PG&E
>vans with advertising on them about their Natural Gas use. I heard a rumor
>that PG&E is going to open Service Stations for refueling these cars.
>Are they really going to have stations? And when?
>One thing I haven't heard about using Natural Gas is anything negative.
>So let me know of any. If there are any.

If you drive in Oklahoma down I-44 (back and forth from Tulsa to OKC),
you will see several Phillips 66 gas stations which are also Compressed
Natural Gas (CNG) stations.  I believe many of the vehicles owned by
the State of Oklahoma are converted to CNG.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mgolden@cwis.unomaha.edu (Brian Golden)
Subject: Re: Replacing the Timing Belts after 60K miles??
Organization: University of Nebraska at Omaha
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 07:40:48 GMT

> 	A friend hof mine has a Plymouth RS/Turbo (The same type of car as  
> Eagle Talon Tsi and Mitsbishi Eclipse). He drove the car so hard that it  
> reached its 60K line within 2.5 years. He was wondering whether he should  
> go ahead and replace the timing belt as recommended in the operation  
> manual, or wait as long as possible ?. He was so reluctant to do so  
> because  the dealer warned him to prepare for a two days job to get that  
> done. Consider the $54/hr cost of labor, that's going to be a Big charge.

When (or if) it goes bad, replace it then.  It is a BIG chore, especially on
front (or all)  wheel drive cars like this.  Most belts will live WELL beyond
the 100k mark.  Mostly the belt fails because of the rubber decaying, not
because of excessive miles.  If he is really worried about becoming stranded
some day, then have him change it.  Otherwise, keep your money.

Mike Golden - mgolden@cwis.unomaha.edu

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: stankus@leland.Stanford.EDU (John J. Stankus)
Subject: Re: MG carb question
Organization: Department of Chemistry, Stanford University
Distribution: rec.autos.tech
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 93 21:56:58 GMT

In article <hellmann.728021357@sycamore.cs.scarolina.edu> hellmann@cs.scarolina.edu (Doug Hellmann) writes:
>
>I am about to come into possession of a 1974 MGB.  I understand they
>have some sort of dual side draft carb on them.  Can anyone give me an
>opinion on how hard these are to tune to each other?  I can rebuild any
>Holley you put in front of me, but I was sort of intimidated by this MG
>carb.  
>
>Any thoughts would be appreciated
>
>-Samantha
>

My brother used to restore MGB (if I remember correctly he has had over
14 of them).  The earlier B's had I believe, two  (H)SU4 (i don't remember
if there is the H there or not), but later on, after the B got the insane
rubber bumper treatment, they went to one HSU6 carb.  I the switch over
was probably 74-75 ish.  I don't recall my brother having any real problems
with rebuilding them or balancing them (all his cars were 2 carb chrome bumper
B's)

Hope this helps

John


John J. Stankus				Chemistry Department
stankus@leland.stanford.edu		Stanford University
From: damong@vole.WPI.EDU (Damon'Fiat'Gentile)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Inspection info requested
Date: 21 Jan 1993 19:39:18 GMT
Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute
NNTP-Posting-Host: vole.wpi.edu

Hi all I was wondering what it took for a car to pass emissions requirements
in Mass or New Hampshire.   The car I have in mind is a 74 ( no clean air
needed in Mass, don't know about NH.)   It has a catalytic converter with 
over 100k on the converter, so Im pretty sure that it is toast. ( supposed 
to be renewed/refilled every 25k )   But the main thing that I'd like to 
know is how loud can loud be ?  Is this just an opinnon of the grease jockey
trying to get another $15 out of me ?  Is it written anywhere, and where could
I try to find it ?    
Any thing of any use is greatly apreciated. (even out of state info!)
From: frank@marvin.contex.com (Frank Perdicaro)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: TH350 vs. TH400
Date: 28 Jan 93 15:16:31 GMT
Organization: Xyvision Design Systems

In article <1993Jan25.121339.15258@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu> dwsmall@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu (Derek 'Enzo' Small) writes:
>Someone asked about a TH700 a while back and no one else offerd anything
>yet so if you're reading... The TH700 is basically an electronically
>controled version of the TH250 but for front wheel drive vehicles.  

It was me that asked about the TH700.  I have acreeted a pile of info
about them.  Not enough to be genuinly eduacational, but enough to
speak about them.

Most of what you said about the TH700 is wrong.  Its a 4 speed auto
similar to the TH350, but with a lower first gear.  Its rear wheel
drive, and longer than many TH350s.  It can be made strong, but the
early ones, and the small (S10) versions are weak.  The TH700 can be
made completely "non-electronic", but REQUIRES a properly fitted 
"kick-down" cable.  As far as I can see, it is the 4 speed auto of
choice.

There are three useful sources of TH700 info I know.  The first comes
from, of all places, JC Whitney!   They sell a good book on the thing.
Second, Popular Hotrodding did a multipart series on the tranny.  HRM
has also done some good stuff.  The real info source is a tranny guy
in VanNuyes, CA.  All he does is TH700 work.  He makes custom parts, 
and is working on a catalog.  When HRM and PH want TH700 work, they go
to him.  I have spoken with him several times, but have not had the $
to buy one of his prepped units for my Cutlass.

-- 
	 Frank Evan Perdicaro 				Xyvision Color Systems
      Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.		101 Edgewater Drive
   inhouse: frank@marvin, x5572				Wakefield MA
outhouse: frank@contex.com, 617-245-4100x5572		018801285
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: christos@wucs1.wustl.edu (Christos Papadopoulos)
Subject: Re: windshield wipers
Organization: Washington University, St. Louis MO
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 05:54:42 GMT

>In article <1993Jan25.053722.22517@scott.skidmore.edu> jdrout@scott.skidmore.edu (JTD is lost) writes:
>>yuri@amath.washington.edu (Yuri Yulaev) writes:
>>> 	I need new wipers : my old ones too noisy and not very efficient
>>> during good rain.
>>> 	Yuri Yulaev

	Try the Bosch wipers. Expensive, but worth it. Avoid by all means the triple-edge
stuff advertised on TV. They are a rippoff IMHO.

Christos.
From: odell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Bernard O'Dell)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: When waxing car, paint comes off.
Date: 28 Jan 93 10:59:40 GMT
Expires: 3 Feb 93 05:00:00 GMT
Reply-To: odell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Bernard O'Dell)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

Does your car have a metallic paint?--

What is coming off is oxidized paint like the guy said; however, IMHO,

I would never use rubbing compound unless the paint is heavily oxidized

and then I would consider the use of polishing compound, a white paste

that is much less abrasive.

You might try a "non-abrasive" type wax--Frequently, most waxes, unless

they state it on the can, bottle, or whatever, contain abrasives, which

rapidly can abrasive right off your paint, if not the clear coat

on a lot of finishes.  If you use the rubbing compound, your paint

will rapidly disappear.

There are all different kinds of situations with cars, you just have

to determine what your situation is and act accordingly.

Most one-step waxes have abrasives in them--unless your car is

heavily oxidized, stay away from them, and use the newer non-abrasive

waxes.  I have an 85 car with a metallic paint. I have only used

a non-abrasive wax since new, and my car still looks almost new.

Dats all der is--Bern O'Dell--
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: cris@cm.deakin.OZ.AU (Christopher Welsh)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,
Subject: rec.autos
Date: 23 Jan 1993 12:43:40 GMT
Organization: Deakin University, Geelong, Australia
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: gollum.cm.deakin.edu.au


Anyone have good/bad reports on the Suzuki GTi 1.3ltr swifts or the 
Peugot 205Si?
We will chose one of these two cars for my wife to drive. Safety is a 
consideration (most small cars seem not so safe, at least here in Australia),
and Performance as well reliability. Your opinions are welcome.

regards,
Christopher W




--
Deakin University          			Chris Welsh
Department of Computing and Maths		cris@aragorn.cm.deakin.oz.au
----------------------------------
Everybody has enormous potential........ if only you could see what I can see.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu (Real Life?!?! HA!!)
Subject: Re: Why is driving slow bad for the carb?
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 06:34:34 GMT

jlaplant@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (John R Laplante) writes:

>A friend of mine reminded me that part of the problem is that
>I never take it on the highway for an extended amount of time
>(during the week, it goes maybe 5 miles one way in city traffic;
> on sundays it travles 1 mile on the interstate to church). He
>also suggested that I drive it on the interstate for about an
>hour. Something about burning out the carbon.

The carbon in question is not in the carb, but on the plugs.  To run smooth-
ly around town (and give good throttle response), American cars used to be
carbed out a little rich.  At highway speeds, this effect was not as notice-
able, as the increased cylinder temp and a richer mixture tend not to pile
on as much carbon.  One other good way to clean off the plugs is through engine
braking, i.e. run it up to 25 or 30 in first gear and let off the gas - the
famous Italian tuneup.  The high RPM's, combined with no throttle, will
give you an incredibly lean mixture and a high volume of gases to carry away
that nasty carbon.

The carb will suffer a little too, as parts not in use (i.e. the secondary
throats and butterflies will gum up with varnish a bit from disuse.  So run-
ning once in a while at full throttle is a good thing (IMHO) too.
(Some of us run at full throttle a disproportionate amount of the time any-
way, but our engines blow up.  More expensive than new plugs :)  If you
don't want to bother with the highway driving, you could always clean and regap
or replace the plugs, although this does nothing for the carb.  Just run the
car a little harder once in a while.  The interval varies depending on how
quickly the plugs soot up after getting clean.

If that doesn't work, I'd start looking at things like mixture, ignition parts,
emissions things, etc.

Good luck!


----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Michael T. Chaffee       | mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu  |  ______    
"It has been said - mostly by illiterates and conserv-|  \    /   HATE
atives - that the belief in God is at the base of the |   \  /  is not a
American system, and that the United States is a prod-|    \/  FAMILY VALUE
uct of Christian piety."  -  Leonard Peikoff          |
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: rcc@sw.stratus.com (Rob Carolan)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: RFI: Jeep CJ Info Needed
Date: 22 Jan 1993 15:02:40 GMT
Organization: Stratus Computer, Inc.
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: lobos.sw.stratus.com

A friend of mine is going to be selling his 90 Honda Accord soon.  He wants to 
replace it with a Jeep CJ.  Can anyone send me some info about what he should 
look for when buying a used Jeep CJ.  I think he wants a early-to-mid 80's 
version.  I don't think the engine size is an issue.  He's looking for tips
on what to check before buying one.  Can you tell if it's been beat on?
Things like that.  Any help would be appreciated.  Please respond via email.

Thanks,
-Rob

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bpita@ctp.com (Bob Pitas)
Subject: Re: WHAT IS AN A-I-R PUMP ON A CHEVY CAPRICE ENGINE?
Organization: Cambridge Technology Partners
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 16:06:34 GMT

In article <1993Jan22.082111.165610@dstos3.dsto.gov.au> pzh@swan.dsto.gov.au (Paul Heuer) writes:
>mgolden@cwis.unomaha.edu (Brian Golden) writes:
><< stuff deleted>>
[More stuff deleted]
>
>DO NOT JUNK THE AIR PUMP!! 
>The motors that use air pumps here in Oz apparently do not
>react well to having the air pump disconnected. The after-market workshop
>manual for my car (Gregory's brand) warns not to remove the pump or run the 
>motor without the belt even for short periods of time.
>
>I must say, my first reaction to pumping air back into the exhaust ports was
>"what a stupid idea, I'll soon fix this".
>
>Now can anyone tell me *why* the air pump shouldn't be removed??

The reason is that most AIR pumps pump air to the exhaust ports during initial
warm up of the car, and then switch and pump the air into the cat-con.
This allows the cat-con to heat up faster, and helps cold-weather starting.
The engineers found that one easy way to make a fuel-injected car run rich
when cold (like the choke on a carbed engine) is to run air into the exhaust 
stream up-wind from the O2 sensor, fooling the O2 sensor into telling the 
computer that the car was running too lean.  In reaction to the 'lean' 
condition, the fuel injectors are pulsed longer, and more fuel is injected, 
making for a richer mixture.  If you remove the AIR pump, the car won't run 
properly when cold and will start like shit.

>
>Cheers,
>Paul Heuer (pzh@aeg.dsto.gov.au)
>-- 
>
>Paul Heuer                                      E-mail : pzh@aeg.dsto.gov.au
>Avionics Technology                             Phone  : +61 8 259 6453
>Air Operations Division                         FAX    : +61 8 259 5507


----------------------------------------------------------------------------
        ___          
       / _ \                 '85 Mustang GT                        Bob Pitas
      /    /USH              14.13 @ 99.8                      bpita@ctp.com
     / /| \                  Up at NED, Epping, NH           (Cambridge, MA)

                           "" - Geddy Lee (in YYZ)
Disclaimer: These opinions are mine, obviously, since they end with my .sig!
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bob@levin3.csuohio.edu (Robert Martel)
Subject: Re: TH350 vs. TH400
Organization: Cleveland State University
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 20:53:34 GMT

Steven J Orlin (sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu) wrote:
: >  
: >  In article <1993Jan25.121339.15258@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu> dwsmall@miavx1.acs.mu
: >  ohio.edu (Derek 'Enzo' Small) writes:
: >  >
: >  >Someone asked about a TH700 a while back and no one else offerd anything
: >  >yet so if you're reading... The TH700 is basically an electronically
: >  >controled version of the TH250 but for front wheel drive vehicles.
: >  >
: >  
: >  Gee. you sound so convincing I'm almost afraid to say this: When did the
: >  Corvette become a front wheel drive vehicle?
: >  
: >  Answers??????
: >  -- 
: >  Orlin.2@osu.edu

  Wasn't that right before the V8 F-cars went FWD - you know, when
they got the THM 700R4, too?  :^)


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sails@howlin.cs.unlv.edu (Jeff Fine)
Subject: Replacing timing belts after 60k
Followup-To: 22375
Reply-To: sails@howlin.cs.unlv.edu (Jeff Fine)
Organization: UNLV Computer Science and Electrical Engineering
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 93 22:30:33 GMT

Gary,
As has been noted, many engines are designed such that the valves may hit the pistons if the timing belt breaks.  This is one of the maintenence areas that can be analyzed quite easily:

Replace belt - $250 - $300 (no problems)
Repair engine - $1500 - ?  (no guarantees)

It will not be evident when the timing belt is going bad, you can't tell just by a casual inspection.  Many times the belt will not break, but several "teeth" may shear off.  If this happens, you stand a chance of bending all of the valves (instead of just a few if the belt snaps), and doing extensive piston damage.

Timing belts have gotten much better over the years (Alfa Romeo and Fiat used to recommend replacing the belt every two years regardless of mileage), but they will not last forever.  Many companies are now recommending 90 - 100k service intervals, but it would be prudent to err on the side of caution.  (Can you think of a time when an engine failure would not be a big problem?)

When you do have the belt replaced, check the water pump too.  On many cars, the pump is driven by the timing belt, and much duplicate labor cost can be avoided by replacing them at the same time, (Late Hondas, and Audi 5000's are good examples).  On the Hondas, labor is 3 hr. to replace just the timing belt or the water pump, or 4 hr. to do both.

The dealer is a good place to have the work done as they have access to all the latest info on updated parts and warranty stuff, but if you don't trust them (I've seen many that I wouldn't trust to do an oil change properly), find an independent that specializes in asian cars.  Avoid any garage that "Specializes in Foreign and Domestic Cars."

                           JSF
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: began@gandalf.ca (Brian Egan)
Subject: Re: GOODYEAR EAGLE GT'S/The Tire Rack -- HELP!
Organization: Gandalf Data Ltd.
Distribution: na
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1993 22:36:53 GMT

In <1jqjbcINNe72@MINERVA.CIS.YALE.EDU> stansbury-travis@yale.edu (Travis Stansbury) writes:

>I'm in desperate need of help.  I know next to nothing about tires (they
>are rubber, right?).  However, I need new ones for my '86 CRX Si, and I
>want neither crappy tires nor tremendous expense.  SOOOO... I noticed
>that a mail order place called "The Tire Rack" (South Bend, IN) had a
>special on Goodyear Eagle GT's in the right size for my car.... $66
>(incl shipping).  So, is this a reputable company?  Are these good tires
>(they are HR.)?  Could I do better for the money?  The salesman told me
>they are an all-weather tire - does this mean I'm sacrificing anything
>performance-wise?  Sorry for all the questions, but this is a major
>purchase that I'm going to make within a day or two, and I don't want to
>regret making it.  Thanks!
>-- 
>   ______________________________________________________
>   | Travis Stansbury, Yale '94  || 2358 Yale Station   |
>   | travis@minerva.cis.yale.edu || New Haven, CT 06520 |
>

I had Eagle GT+4's (all season tires) on my 89 Grand Prix. After one
full year of driving (approx. 50,000Km), they're cooked. I have
to say that traction on dry pavement was excellent. Wet traction 
was poor and snow was absolutely frightening. I'm lucky to still
own my car. I won't buy them again.

Brian

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: tgl@slee01.srl.ford.com (Tom Leone)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Freewheeling engines, Eclipse timing belts (was: ... Timing Belts after 60K miles??)
Date: 27 Jan 1993 20:28:39 GMT
Organization: Ford Motor Company Research Laboratory
NNTP-Posting-Host: slee02.srl.ford.com
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5

I wrote:

: ...
: Source: Motor magazine, August 1991, for 1981 to 1990 cars.
: (Shows a complete list by manufacturer).  The only
: non-freewheeling American engines shown on the list are the old
: Ford 1.6L (not 1.9L) Escort, and the Chrysler (Eagle?) Medallion.
: ...

I should clarify that the article only covered engines with
timing belts, not chains.

Tom Leone <tgl@slee01.srl.ford.com>
From: bense@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ron Bense)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: CRX Lost MPG oxy gas
Date: 26 Jan 93 22:12:06 GMT
Article-I.D.: oasys.30203
Reply-To: bense@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ronald Bense)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.autos.tech, mrein3@cfsmo.honeywell.com (Matt Rein #3) writes:

>Don't worry, it is winter time and your MPG should show it.  My friend

This is a fallacy. I've never noticed a drop in winter MPG, and my recent
road test shows that there is none. (Matter of fact, I got the best
mileage I've ever gotten:)

>his MPG fell off last winter.  You are lucky, his drops off 10-15 MPG
>this time of year.  (He warms up his car quite a bit)

Perhaps the true reason is this unnecessary warming up?

Note: warming up your car should only take about 20s, whether it is
100 or -40 (In the -40 case you might want to plug in a block warmer
so that the oil isn't too thick). Then the first few miles should be
driven gently, to allow the *entire* drivetrain to warm up. (When you
let the engine get hot, the rest of the drivetrain generally remains
cold.)

>Wait for March or April, that will cure it.

Actually, just wait until March 1, as there will be no more oxygenated
gas sold for a while. Takes about two-three tanks to clear the garbage
out of your tank. (in my case, anyway)

Ron
From: andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Radial tires on old car
Date: 26 Jan 93 19:09:47 GMT
Organization: Brandeis University


Be forewarned that radials break away differently from bias and adjust
your driving.  I also vaguely remember that you might add a bit more
camber to the alignment.