HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Re: Ghia stalls
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 19:42:49 GMT

In article <1992Oct6.151540.5832@alw.nih.gov>, meyer@helix.nih.gov (Meyer Gordon) writes:
|> My '72 Karmann Ghia was just tuned up and runs great, except for one
|> problem.  On cold mornings, it stalls when I come to a stop after driving
|> about a mile.  I usually let it idle for about 30 seconds before starting
|> out.  After stalling that one time, it never stalls again that day.  Would
|> this be a choke problem?  Should I up the idle speed?  Any suggestions will
|> be appreciated.

This brings back memories.  I suspect that you are beginning to get cool, damp
mornings back there in the East.  The typical choke uses an electrically heated
element to heat a bi-metallic spring.  As it is heated the choke will back off.
Problem with this approach is that the choke comes off as a function of time,
not as a function of actual engine heat.

Your 30 second idle after startup is allowing the choke to come off sooner that
it was designed.  VW has always been of the thinking that you need to drive off
immediately.   Cool damp air also aggravates the problem by increasing the
chance of carbureator icing if the manifold heater does not heat up quickly 
enough.  Your stalling may be a combination of both.

Two things to try.  First try starting off immediately after the oil pressure
is up (after the oil pressure light goes out and stays out).  VW's don't need
much pressure with their large main bearings.  Once underway, accelerate
briskly and don't shift into high gear unless you are over 45 mph -- stay in
3rd gear.   This brings the engine temperature up quickly and allows more
exhaust flow through the intake manifold heater.  If the problem goes away,
poor intake manifold heating is probably the cause.

A second approach it is turn the body of the choke heater about an 1/8 turn
(sorry, I don't remember which direction) by loosening the three clamping
screws.  There should be a small ribbed section with a scribe mark on the 
heater body. This will effectively change the time it takes for the electric
heater to bring the choke full open.  If you go the wrong way the stalling
will be more pronounced. If this cures the problem, it is choke timing related.

If the choke timing is problem, you can also try to trick the electric heater
by installing a remote switch in series with the heater wire and then only
connect the heater after you have started driving.  Only drawback here, is that
you might forget, and you'll leave the choke full on -- crumby running and poor
fuel economy.

Hope this helps.

Mark
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: kpjone01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu
Subject: Just got some Neuspeed Springs
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 12:17:08 GMT
Organization: University of Louisville

Greets,
 
I just put some Neuspeed springs on my 86 GTi and I would just like to say
that they make a MASSIVE difference.  Although my shocks are still stock and
need to be replaced, the car is like a totally different machine.  The ride
is a little stiffer but not too bad.  If I go over rough pavement, the springs
don't really affect the ride too much until I take a tight turn.  Then they
show the difference.  I added at least 10 mph to ANY turn vs. my stock 
springs.  Another added bonus is that the car sits a little lower and the
back does not sag anymore from the stereo.  My old springs must have been 
pretty bad.  Next on the list is some good shocks.  Anyone got any ideas
for shocks that will match Neuspeed's springs?
 
Kevin

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Kevin Jones                                   KPJONE01@ULKYVX.CT.LOUISVILLE.EDU
Lab Supervisor                                KPJONE01@ULKYVX.LOUISVILLE.EDU
Computing and Telecommunications              PHONE:  502-588-6303
University of Louisville, KY                  FAX:    502-588-0150

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
From: bjgaed@bb1t.monsanto.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Timing the 009
Date: 1 Oct 92 07:20:17 CST
Organization: Monsanto Company, St. Louis, MO

In article <IemWzXu00WB8QkUl8m@andrew.cmu.edu>, dv0o+@andrew.cmu.edu (Doug vanderVeen) writes:
> Well, I don't have time to figure out if my FI will turn off my fuel
> pump anymore; I have added to my befuddlement through the purchase of a
> '74 Campmobile.  It was running poorly when I bought it, so I started in
> on a tune-up.  (The exhaust valve clearances were zero, I think that
> accounts for most of the problems)  

OUCH!!

> But when it came down to the timing
> I was stumped.  The previous owner had upgraded to an 009.  I don't have
> any specs on this.
> What do I do?
> 
Muir sez:  Time all centrifugal advance distributors (the 009) to 7.5 
degrees BTDC static.  I just put one on my '64 Ghia and it runs great 
with that timing, gas mileage is excellent.

> Also, all emission controls except PCV and fuel vapor filtration have
> been removed.  Any bets on if it will pass Arizona emissions?
> 
No bet, pal.  You might be toast.  Depends on what was taken off and 
if it shows that something is missing.  Most of that junk doesn't make 
much difference in the emissions; the inspectors just insist that 
everything that *was* there still *be* there.  I know a lot of people 
who plug up hoses and just leave the stuff there for looks when they 
smog it .

> Doug "My FI schematic doesn't agree with my wiring diagram." van der Veen
-- 
--Electric Monk            (Bruce Gaede); 
                            e-mail: bjgaed@ccmail.monsanto.com

"...and then time started seriously to pass."
--Douglas Adams, _Dirk Gently's Holistic Detective Agency_
From: sylveste@ecs.umass.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Changing struts for Audi Coupe '82.
Date: 29 Sep 92 11:10:53 GMT

In article <1992Sep24.195458.10146@uoft02.utoledo.edu>, stx7175@uoft02.utoledo.edu writes:
> Hi,
> 	Anybody out there ever changed a strut (front suspension) for Audi
> Coupe '82? 
> 	Could somebody please tell me how to change the strut for this car.
> 	
> 	Thanks.
> Fadhil.
> 

This has already been described for a VW and is basically the same for the
Audi coupe.  You have to remove the following things from the strut tower:

Wheel
tierod
balljoint
axelnut
brakes

Then you remove the nut at the top that holds the whole tower in the body 
of the car.  When you have the tower removed the spring has to be compressed
and the notched collar nut removed from the strut piston.  At this time the 
strut assembly will come apart from the spring.  Next the large collar nut 
has to be unscrewed from the tube that the strut cartrige is contained in.
If this car has the original struts, which I dought if it is an '82,
the tube will not have cartrige in it but, it will have oil and seals. 
Just remove the piston and seals, dump out the oil and insert your cartrige.
    I know that I am leaving out alot of details but, I figure that if you plan 
on doing this yourself that this isn't the first time working on your car.
If you need more specifics say so but I just don't want to waste time
telling you something that you already know.

                                         mike sylvester    Umass  
                                         sylveste@ecs.umass.edu
From: borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: '85 Jetta timing mark ?
Date: 29 Sep 92 15:08:29 GMT
Article-I.D.: hpspkla.31170069
Organization: Hewlett Packard Company, Spokane, Wa.

In rec.autos.vw, wtjones@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Bill Jones) writes:

>Changed the timing belt on my '85 Jetta, gas engine.  Although the belt had
>173000 miles on it, it looked new.  (The car was made in W. Germany).
>I need to set the timing and it is rather embarassing, but I cant seem
>to find the timing marks.
>
>I suspect it is inside the plug in the clutch housing.  Is that right?
>I heard that the plug is also for a probe to set the timing (Hall effect)
>in the dealership.

I can speak only with knowledge of my '81 diesel Rabbit.  Yes, you need to
pull the plastic plug from the clutch housing.  Then, one you do that,
you need to look long and hard to find the right mark.  It wasn't until
I had to replace the cracked head on my engine that I figured out which
mark was the correct one.  With the head off, I could SEE #1 piston, and
could set it at top dead center.  I then look into the unplugged hole, and
saw a rather indistinct "dimple" which is cast into the flywheel.  There are
other marks which are machined, but they are not the right ones.

I suppose that you could always remove spark plug #1, and use a small diameter
rod of some sort to probe and feel the top of the piston.  Then by rotating
the engine, you could find top dead center, and then check for your mark.


Donald Borowski    WA6OMI    Hewlett-Packard, Spokane Division
"Angels are able to fly because they take themselves so lightly."
                                       -G.K. Chesterton
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: kokerj@jec308.its.rpi.edu (James Matthew Kokernak)
Subject: Re: ** INFO ON VW CORRADO V6 **
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 15:15:10 GMT

In article <1992Sep28.175546.24408@microplex.com> fff@microplex.com (Fred Fierling) writes:
>
>My manual states that the AC runs for defrosting when the outside temperature
>is above 2 degrees Celcius.  However it doesn't say why, which is the essence
>of my original question.
>-- 

The air  compressor runs to condense moisture out of the air, as was  mentioned
by another poster. Presumably at 2C ~ 36F, there is not a lot of moisture in
the air.

>Fred Fierling    fff@microplex.com      Tel: 604 875-1461   Fax: 604 875-9029
>Microplex Systems Ltd   265 East 1st Avenue   Vancouver, BC  V5T 1A7,  Canada
From: colemant@yvax.byu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: High beam and horn share wiring?
Date: 5 Oct 92 17:00:24 -0700
Organization: Brigham Young University

While getting the high beam to work on my '71 bus I ran into a problem...

The wires for the high beam switch had been 'ripped' out by the previous owner,
so I put them back in.  A problem arose when putting back together the 
covering for the turn signal mechanism, the horn went off.  When the horn wire 
is pulled off of the top of the steering column or disconnected under the 
dash it still goes off from the high beam wire.  When the two wires for the 
high beam switch are touched the horn does not go off.  So if one of the wires 
makes it beep when touched to ground there is a problem... right? 
I soldered the wires on "backwards" so that it only honks when flipping the
high beam.

I think I need to isolate the two wires for the high beam switch so that
neither touches ground, but I don't see how to do it...

I'm writing this to ask:  does the horn wire and high beam switch wire share
some common positive?  How can I overcome this problem?

--Tom Coleman
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: shade@chdasic.sps.mot.com (Douglas Shade)
Subject: Re: '67 Squareback- life&death- part III
Reply-To: shade@chdasic.sps.mot.com
Organization: Motorola SPS ASIC, Chandler, AZ
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 15:47:19 GMT


>        More than taking it apart, which I'm pretty sure I can handle, 
>I'd love to know how I can tell if my loose heads have caused any real 
>damage to my crankcase which would necessitate my purchase of a hugely 
>expensive new case.
>

Loose heads?!? Bummer.  I can't remember the details, or where I read it,
but you may want to check the condition of the long steel studs that hold the
head down (after you've pulled the head off and slide the barrels off...
don't panic if you haven't done this before, I'm not much of a mechanic, but
I really enjoyed pulling my baja motor all apart and sticking it back 
together (runs like a top)).

Anyway, there are two flavors of studs, 8mm and 10mm.  One size (I think
the 10) tends to expand faster than the case under extreme heat and 
messes up the threads anchoring it in the case.  This is where 'case savers'
are used in rebuilt motors.  Check the studs out, they may be the source of
loose heads.

If when you loosen the head bolts, the stud comes out instead of the nut
coming off, your problem is probably the stud's threads in the case.

---
shade@chdasic.sps.mot.com
602-821-4096


Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rich@mks.com (Rich Jones)
Subject: Re: ** INFO ON VW CORRADO V6 **
Organization: Mortice Kern Systems Inc., Waterloo, Ontario, CANADA
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 02:45:08 GMT

In article <T2kVRB2w164w@cellar.org> blu@cellar.org (Dan Reed) writes:
>jan@camhpp12.mdcbbs.com (Jan Vandenbrande) writes:
>
>> In article <1992Sep25.051925.12909@microplex.com> fff@microplex.com (Fred Fie
>> >
>> >
>> >Have you noticed that switching to defrost causes the air conditioner
>> >compressor to kick in?  I suspect it cools (and dehumidifies) the air
>> >then heats it up before it gets to the windshield.  Anyone know for sure?
>> >-- 
>> Most vw stock ACs do that. Does exactly what you say. Works pretty 
>> good too.
>> 
>
>I find it annoying, I have installed a manual switch on mine, I hate the 
>power loss.  Heated air has almost 0 humidity in it anyway.  I know WHY VW 
>did it tho.  Most cars do this, because in the winter your A/C 
>compressor/guts dont get used.  Thus over the winter, many older A/C units 
>went bad, or had problems due to lack of use.  The compressor would sit all 
>winter long, with no oil/use.  Come the first say of summer, folks would find 
>that thier A/C had gotten water in the system, lost oil or lost a charge due 
>to lack of use.  Thus they (car makers) have hooked it up to your defroster, 
>that you use in the winter.  Its not so much to help the defroster, but to 
>keep your A/C working.

Another reason: In the Winter, even if you forget to turn on the A/C, you never have to wait for the vehicle to warm up to see out the windshield.
-- 
Richard Jones  ||  // // ,' /~~~\'  35 King Street North
rich@mks.com  /||/// //\\   `\\\   Waterloo, Ontario
            _/ | //_//  \\|\___/  Canada  N2J 2W9
      MORTICE KERN SYSTEMS INC.  (519) 884-2251
From: bjgaed@bb1t.monsanto.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: '67 Squareback- life&death- part III
Date: 28 Sep 92 07:01:12 CST
Organization: Monsanto Company, St. Louis, MO

In article <8LTRRB1w165w@cybernet.cse.fau.edu>, justin@cybernet.cse.fau.edu (Justin Davila) writes:
> 
>         More than taking it apart, which I'm pretty sure I can handle, 
> I'd love to know how I can tell if my loose heads have caused any real 
> damage to my crankcase which would necessitate my purchase of a hugely 
> expensive new case.
> 
> Justin. 

The loose heads could have caused some damage because the vibration 
and pounding (which caused all the noise) can cause the bearing 
saddles in the case to be pounded out from round to oval in shape.  
Muir mentions this briefly, but IMO it is one of the few things he 
does not properly emphasize in the Idiot book.  He just has one 
sentence in there about asking the machinist about lineboring when you 
take the case in to be cleaned.  The symptom that indicates 
out-of-round bearing saddles is low oil pressure at idle.

Not to worry, however.  Like most everything else in an air-cooled VW, 
a beat-up case can be brought back to life *in most cases* (no pun).
About the only thing not fixable is if you threw a rod and it punched 
a hole in the case.

If your heads were rattling because of loose head nuts, have the main 
bearings linebored and No. 1 main thrust cut.  Then get oversize 
bearings to match both the linebored case and the crank.  The case can 
be linebored twice, so even if it was bored before, you can get one 
more out of it, and the bearings are available.  My last linebore job 
added about $60 to the machine shop bill.

The other reason for loose heads may be that the studs that hold the 
cylinder/head assembly are loose in the case.  The machine shop can 
install inserts for any loose studs if there aren't already inserts 
there.

Unfortunately, you won't know the answers to some of those "ifs" until 
you get the engine torn down.  Good Luck!

--Electric Monk            (Bruce Gaede); 
                            e-mail: bjgaed@ccmail.monsanto.com

"...and then time started seriously to pass."
--Douglas Adams, _Dirk Gently's Holistic Detective Agency_
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: u9264582@cc.uow.edu.au (Robert Duong)
Subject: WANTED : VW Gifs
Organization: University Of Wollongong
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 92 04:59:50 GMT

BOy, Id like some VW Gifs, especially some of the old oval windows and
wierd and unusual ones.  Thanks in advance.


/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\
    Robert Duong                     |    " Toto, I have a feeling we're     
    University of Wollongong         |      not in Kansas anymore... "       
    u9264582@wampyr.cc.uow.edu.au    |                   Dorothy Gale
    -send no cheques, cash only      |                _THE WIZARD OF OZ_     
\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: C11815@maccvm.corp.mot.com (Josette Giacobbi)
Subject: Re: Save my floor!
Organization: Motorola
Date: 29 Sep 1992 15:28:05 CDT

said:
Last month I bought a 73 Beetle, completely restored.  Part of the restoration
was a new floor.  My problem now is that water is somehow getting into the
bug and collecting under the rubber mats (were these designed to promote sales

(rest deleted)     My daughter has a 73 super beetle. It had water coming
down between the front fire wall and the carpet attached to it. Our
problem was the outside vent (infront of the windshield) was so packed
with pinestraw down deep in the drainage hole that water was over
flowing into the car. The drainage hold goes down and comes out under
the running board. See if that helps.   Josette
From: mgm@royko.Chicago.COM (Marty Masters)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: The Fahrvergnugen Song
Keywords: Sing Along!
Date: 1 Oct 92 06:44:22 GMT
Organization: Chicago Software Works

I've worked in Radio for a while, and driven VW's longer, so when 
the Fahrvergnugen song came along, I did a bit of editing so I 
could use it for inspiration when I go autocrossing.  There were
two generations, about a year apart.  The second version was a bit 
more uptempo than the first, and as best as I can make out, they go
something like this...

Here's a word you've probably probably heard, 
everybody's talking Bout it, Fahrvergnugen!

Ahhh...	Fahrvergnugen!  say the word,
Fahrvergnugen!  say the word!
What's Fahrvergnugen?  You feel it when you're cruisen,
It's handle wellgen, smoothen curven, nimble turnen,
solid driven, power ticken with precision.
It is all-en Fahrvergnugen!  say the word,
Fahrvergnugen!  say the word,
Fahrvergnugen!  Volkswagen... you know what it's got!
It's got fleet of foot-en, fast express-en, greaten feel-en,
swift response-en, euro drive-en satisfaction.
It is all-en Fahrvergnugen!
Fahrvergnugen!  Volkswagen,
Fahrvergnugen!  say the word,
Fahrvergnugen!  say the word.

(2nd generation)

It's exhilirate-en cruisen, the road to Fahrvergnugen!
Power tick-en mit presicion, the road to Fahrvergnugen!
Flowing into soothen curven, Feel-en great mit nimble turn-en,
Zip-en and a Zoo-oo-men, Able for the fifty-five-en!
Here we go a-euro-drive-en,
Experience, (guitar riff) 
Volkswagen, (guitar riff) is everything you've heard,
put your hands around the wheel, drive, and say the word!
Fahrvergnugen!  Volkswagen,
Fahrvergnugen!  say the word,
Fahrvergnugen!  say the word.

I've used other music for "inspiration", such as Wagner's "Ride
of the Valkyries", The theme from the movie "Brasil", Sousa's 
"Liberty Bell March", and "Rawhide" from the Blues Brothers,
"Let it roll" by Little Feat, amongst others...

...Marty & the Fahrvergnugen.micro.wagen
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: chuck@netcom.com (Cheuk Cheng)
Subject: brake problems
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 92 08:41:00 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Summary: Brake problems on my VWs
Keywords: brake

	I just received a email from my brother tonight.  He said he found
some problems with the brake on his two years old Golf which received the 
30K services about two days ago.  In the mail he said if he pumps the brake
a few times, the pedal will feel higher.  But when he steps on it very hard,
it will gradually go lower and lower toward the floor.  Does it sound like
air in the brake system?  Also, surprisingly my dad's Jetta got the same 
problem after the 60K services at a different dealer.  Now both my dad's
Jetta and my brother's Golf are taken back to the dealers.  Hopefully, they
will do the right job this time.  Any comment on this will be welcomed.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rjones@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Ronald Jones)
Subject: Re: ** INFO ON VW CORRADO V6 **
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1992 19:49:17 GMT

Hell! It works that way in my 83 Rabbit.
-- 
 < Ron Jones                   |    E-mail:       rj+@osu.edu   > 
 < The Ohio State University   |    Office:      (614) 292-1665 >
 < 338 West Tenth Avenue       |    FAX:(9-5PM)  (614) 292-7151 > 
 < Columbus, Ohio 43210        |        "eschew obfuscation"    >
From: andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Rabbit GTI Clutches
Date: 29 Sep 92 15:10:27 GMT
Organization: Brandeis University

In article <17520011@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM> jayj@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (Jay Johannes) writes:
>In rec.autos.vw, andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang) writes:
>
>    My oil pressure warning system is being flaky.  On occasion, generally

	[OIL PRESSURE DISCUSSION DELETED]

>  We now have 190K miles on the car (original owner), and less than
>$1000 in unscheduled maintenance.  Original clutch, rear brakes, etc.
>The head has never been off. We maintan the car, but run it fairly
>hard, including two seasons on the SCCA National Rally circuit. Given
>the comments in this group, I guess quality fell apart in '85, but we
>sure don't see it in our car.
>
>  Jay

I have 120+K on my 84GTI clutch.  Of course wear depends upon driving
style etc, but what are other people's experience with clutch
lifetimes and corresponding driving styles?  Should I expect to see
200K on the original clutch?

andy:	120+	double clutch up and down, steep driveway, otherwise
		not hard driver

jay:	190	2yrs SCCA Rally, presumably hard driver


-andy
From: mandayrv@ucunix.san.uc.edu (Atilla the Hun)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Water system leak
Keywords: VW rabbit, coolant leak
Date: 4 Oct 92 13:52:01 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Cincinnati

Hi folks,

I have  a 83 VW rabbit and I recently started having this problem. 
The coolant/water in the water circulating sytem seems to be leaking at a
high rate from the joints between the bottom crankcase cover and the
engine blocks. Has anybody had this problem before? If so, what is the fix.
Can I fix it myself or do I have to go to a mechanic (I do not have too
many tools with me). What would be a fair price to pay to the garage or the
mechanic who fixes this for me?

Please reply by email.  Thanks in advance.



-- 
ramanand@pumpkin.ece.uc.edu

Dept. of Electrical & Computer Engg.		Ramanand V Mandayam
ML #30, Rhodes Hall,						510 Riddle Rd, #2