HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,misc.consumers
Subject: Credit report
Date: 31 Aug 92 20:36:41 GMT
Organization: OSF Research Institute

Those interested in taking out a mortgage or other loan may be
interested in the following item (from USA Today):

    You can get a copy of your credit report once a year from TRW by
    writing to TRW Consumer Assistance, POB 2350, Chatsworth, CA
    91313-2350.  Include all of the following: full name including
    middle initial and generation such as Jr, Sr, III; current address
    and ZIP code; previous addresses and ZIPs for past five years;
    Social Security number; year of birth; spouse's first name.
    Include a photocopy of a billing statement, utility bill, driver's
    license, or other document that links your name with the address
    where the report should be mailed.

When you get the report, if you see any negatives which are incorrect
or misleading, contact the company which put them in (e.g. the credit
card company).  You may be able to convince them to tell TRW to
expunge that report.

On my credit report, a credit card was listed as delinquent for a
couple of months a few years ago.  The reason was that they had been
sending my bills overseas, by surface mail...!  They put in a
correction after I talked to them on the phone and sent them a letter.

	-s
From: jeske@src.dec.com (Steve Jeske)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: safety vs suggested weapons
Date: 1 Sep 92 00:27:33 GMT
Followup-To: rec.guns
Organization: DEC Systems Research Center

In article <Aug.28.12.13.59.1992.9569@math.rutgers.edu>
janowsky@math.rutgers.edu (Steven Janowsky) writes:
[about guns]

This has nothing to do with housing.  Please continue this discussion
on the rec.guns bboard.  Thanks.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: trb@cbnews.cb.att.com (tom.balent)
Subject: Re: wood floor or carpet?
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 11:11:36 GMT

In article <MACRAKIS.92Aug27114308@next4.osf.org> macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis) writes:
>
>The most important thing is to determine the quality and condition of
>the wood floor.  Be sure it is really hardwood (softwood is often used
>for floors that were originally intended to be carpeted).

or by owners who could not afford the high cost of hardwood.

>Refinished softwood can look good (although more rustic than hardwood),
>but won't hold up as well over time.

well, I will agree that you have to be a little more careful with a
floor made of soft wood, but - especially in an old house -  the wear
of the floor adds to the character of the house.

tom
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: jeq@i88.isc.com (Jonathan E. Quist)
Subject: Re: Spray Foam Follies
Organization: INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation, Naperville, IL
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 16:29:01 GMT

In article <1992Aug27.133851.5152@meaddata.com> dedek@meaddata.com (Mike Dedek) writes:
>In article <1965@wdi.COM>, pestes@wdi.COM (Laurin Pestes x82570) writes:
>|> I tried some of the aerosol expanding foam insulation 
>|> around a prehung door I installed recently. It filled 
>|> up the gaps too well, oozing out of the gap, although
>|> it was easily trimmed off later. The real greif came 
>|> later when I tried to close the door again. The door 
>|> wouldn't close, but ran into the jamb instead.
...
>I just saw on This Old House they did this, and cautioned
>strongly against overfilling.  They said "When it looks like
>it's not enough, it's enough".  I guess you know that already
>though, huh?

In addition, if there's a chance of overfilling, it wouldn't hurt to
plan a few pressure relief holes so the stuff expands in the proper direction.
I'm guessing the insulating value would also be slightly greater if the
stuff cures under no pressure.
-- 
Jonathan E. Quist                              INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation
jeq@i88.isc.com  '71 CL450-K4 "Gleep", DoD #094        Naperville, IL
        There are many things a person should experience in a lifetime.
       Among them are an infant's first cry, and an infant's first laugh.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: tln@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (teresa.l.green)
Subject: RE:House Painting and Caulking
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 14:54:29 GMT

Hello -
	I just wanted to add one comment to the excellent House
Painting post.  NEVER caulk siding laps.  Houses MUST be 
able to breath.  If you do not have a good vapor barrier on
the inside of your house, moisture from inside will move into
walls.  If you have sealed your siding, this moisture will be
trapped, and wood damage will result.  You want a good air
barrier (Tyvex is one brand name) on the exterior of your house,
not a vapor barrier.
			Teresa
			teresa@ihlpm.ATT.COM
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: cab@col.hp.com (Chris Best)
Subject: Re: "If I had a gun, I'd shoot every damned one of them!"
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 21:41:58 GMT
Organization: your service

walker@eplrx7.es.duPont.com (Scott Walker) writes:
> I was watching the news last night and they interviewed this shop owner
> in Florida whose store had been decimated by Hurricane Andrew.  He told of
> how he would salvage something out of his store and put it out front,
> but in the time it would take for him to go back in and get something, 
> someone would loot his recovered product.  In response to this, he said:
> "If I had a gun, I'd shoot every damned one of them."  This goes along
> with the well-beaten thread about killing burglars.  The shop owner had 
> just seen his life blown away in a hurricane and people were stealing
> what little he had left.  I don't advocate killing people, but I sure
> sympathize with the poor guy.

----------

Gee, with all the downed power lines laying around, if the poor burglar
were to be, say, electrocuted while taking this guy's stuff, it'd be 
hard to blame the shop owner... 

Too bad most of the lines are dead.  (Maybe a portable generator?)
From: gt@hpfcbig.SDE.HP.COM (George Tatge)
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 19:29:02 GMT
Subject: Re: ADVICE NEEDED: Shake roof maintenance
Organization: HP SESD, Fort Collins, CO
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house

In misc.consumers.house, wayne@ultra.com (Wayne Hathaway) writes:

>I have recently acquired a three-story house with a shake roof
>underneath pine trees.  A very nice place, but the roof is COVERED
>with pine needles (not to mention the gutters).

>    San Jose, CA 95134              FAX: 408-433-9287

Since you live in San Jose, I'd say don't worry about the pine
needles on the roof itself.  They are not going to contribute
significantly to the early demise of your shakes.  Now, if you lived
in Seattle, it would be a different story.

>By the way, there's no way to reach even a fraction of the gutters
>with any kind of ladder; it'll all have to be done from the roof.

You didn't mention the pitch of the roof.  If it is 4/12 you shouldn't
have too much problem if you are careful.  5/12 and over, I'd use a
harness to be on the safe side.

How high is your highest gutter above ground level?  Since you are
going to be doing this regularly (at least once/year) I'd recommend
coming up with something safe and relatively easy.  This would depend
on your roof pitch, terrain around the house, gutter height above ground,
and perhaps other factors.


gt
From: rrw@elden.cse.nau.edu (Bob Wier)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Thompson's Water Seal Sale
Date: 2 Sep 92 06:45:21 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Northern Arizona University, Flagstaff AZ
Originator: rrw@elden.cse.nau.edu

Since it's getting time to prepare for winter here in the
mountains, I've been grabbing a number of gallons of Thompson's
Water Seal (seems to work ok for me). I don't use enough of
it to buy a 5 gallon drum, so I've been looking at the gallon
size. It appears to be on sale over a fairly wide area.  In 
two different stores now, I've seen a special "gallon + 25% more
FREE!" for 9.99.  In other stores I'm still seeing a gallon for
around $15.  These stores were "coast to coast" in Colorado and
a local outfit ("Babbits Home Center") here in Flagstaff.

If you are planning on buying some, you might want to check around
in your area to see if it's on sale - especially if you don't
have something like a Home Depot close (which we don't being
here in the Boonies!).

===BW


 - Bob Wier

  ---------- insert favorite standard disclaimers here ----------
                   College of Engineering
      Northern Arizona University, Flagstaff Arizona
  Internet: rrw@naucse.cse.nau.edu | BITNET: WIER@NAUVAX | WB5KXH
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com (Fred Christiansen)
Subject: Re: Question of Kitchen appliances, Are there small dishwashers, etc
Organization: Motorola Computer Group, Technical Systems Operations
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 17:31:22 GMT

In article <1992Aug28.025518.14092@news.Hawaii.Edu>, bill@gaza.uhcc.Hawaii.Edu
(William J. King) says:
>
>        Does any company make smaller dishwashers, and

Frigidaire does.  18".  Also, I owned a home in Oregon with a Kenmore 18".
-- 
Fred Christiansen, Motorola, 2900 S Diablo Way, Tempe, AZ 85282  "Canajun, eh?"
fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com  ||  uunet!phx.mcd.mot.com!fredch  ||  +1 602-438-3464
  On Attitude & the Immune System:  A sound heart is the life of the flesh:
    but envy the rottenness of the bones.  Prov 14:30
From: odell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Bernard O'Dell)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Exterior House Trim Painting
Date: 3 Sep 92 11:02:39 GMT
Expires: 11 Sep 92 04:00:00 GMT
Reply-To: odell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Bernard O'Dell)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

I can't thank you enough Stavros for your outstanding and
thorough response to my request for info as to how to paint the exterior
of an older house.  Obviously, you spent a lot of time in
researching all this information.

Where are you located? If I can be of any help to you if you
ever visit VA or DC, let me know.

Bern O'Dell--
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: jeske@src.dec.com (Steve Jeske)
Subject: Re: suggested weapons (was: Killing burglars.)
Followup-To: rec.guns
Organization: DEC Systems Research Center
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 92 00:24:55 GMT

In article <1992Aug28.152954.21946@ucsu.Colorado.EDU>
carter@spot.Colorado.EDU (Mike Carter) writes:
>Not that this discussion belongs in misc.consumers.house any longer ...

I agree.  Please continue this on rec.guns.  Thanks.
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Sound insulation for ceiling/floor:  ideas?
Keywords: sound insulation fibreglass
Date: 30 Aug 92 07:02:11 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <1992Aug30.023716.15210@bmers145.bnr.ca> tpc@bnr.ca (Thomas P. Chmara) writes:
>The basement ceiling is the (soft) fibreglass 2'X4' suspended ceiling
>tiles.  I figured they'd provide better insulation than *this*; I guessed
>wrong.  Has anyone stuffed standard insulation between the joists for
>sound insulation?  How did you keep it up there (aside from simply from
>friction)?  Are there any other alternatives I might consider to the
>fiberglass batts?

Somebody else will comment on the alternatives.  I'd just like to warn
you about fixtures - if you have pot fixtures in the ceiling, you will
not be able to put insulation around them because they'll overheat.

There's probably better alternatives, but fiberglass (or roxul)
will work.  Roxul perhaps a bit better than fiberglass.  Perhaps
good enough.

I wouldn't worry too much about holding it up - the tiles can do it.
If you use rock wool, the batts will stay put between the joists.
With fiberglass, *some* of the batts will fall.

If you want to hold them up, there's several options.  Traditional
options in floor insulation (over crawlspaces) is lathe strapping
or chicken wire.  Both a trifle difficult in your case.  You could
get away with stapling baling wire or some sort of strap across
the joists.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Newsgroups: Re:,misc.consumers.house
From: peterson@ucunix.san.uc.edu (John M. Peterson)
Subject: Re: Stain on driveway
Organization: University of Cincinnati
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 92 20:43:00 GMT


>
>Since it's concrete, try some mineral spirits (this will disolve alphalt,
>but concrete's ok. Pour a little on and then dry it with a paper towel
>or cotton.
>
>If that doesn't do it, use muriatic acid cut about 20 to 1 with water.
>You can usually find this at home improvement stores sold as (are you
>ready for this?) concrete cleaner.
>

NO NO !! muriatic acid at that strength will etch --- desolve the
concrete, leaving you with sand and gravel (if you use too much).
It is also vary dangerous stuff to use.

The mineral spirits WILL work.


+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
|  peterson@headcheese.daa.uc.edu      	 In real life: John M. Peterson  |
|                                                                        |
|  College of Design Architecture Art & Planning                         |
|  University of Cincinnati           45221-0016           513-556-1207  |
+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
From: nll@cbnewsb.cb.att.com (neal.l.leitner)
Subject: Re: Eletric dryer - running but not drying
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 11:53:04 GMT

From article <1992Aug31.225525.9895@desktalk.desktalk.com>, by eric@desktalk.com (Eric Lieber):
> In article 24358@oasys.dt.navy.mil, diprosp@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Michael DiProspero) writes:
>>I recently purchased a home in which the washer/dryer combo was included
>>by the previous homeowner.  Everything was fine for about a month -
>>but a couple of days ago when I tried to dry a load of clothes the
>>dryer kept on running and running, but never got hot.  The dryer is
>>a Kenmore and electric (I forget the model number).  Does anyone have
>>any ideas what might be causing this?  Thanks.
>>
>>Mike
> 
> 
> The heat element/coil has probaly burnt out.
> 

OR

Check the circuit breaker!!  If it is not tripped turn it off then on
and see if it dries the clothes.  If it does then have the breaker 
replaced.

Neal Leitner
...att!emdbl1!nll
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: florence@infonode.ingr.com (John Florence)
Subject: Re: Garden hose
Summary: S E A R S
Organization: Intergraph Corporation, Huntsville, AL.
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 21:26:30 GMT

In article <laa0vfINNeg4@news.bbn.com>, lgoodman@BBN.COM 
(Laurie Goodman) writes:
> 
> What are opinions about rubber vs plastic garden hoses viz. durability,
> weight and cost etc.?
> 
       Go to Sears.....buy one or two whatever # of their
	10 year full replacement guaranteed hoses.....$10.00 - $15.00 ??
	
	These, if mine were representative, will last about 3 years....then
	will begin to break up.......take them back to Sears get new ones
	at NO CHARGE to you.......
	
	Repeat as often as necessary    AND.....NEVER.....I REPEAT   NEVER
	buy another garden hose as long as you live................
	
	8{)	8{)	8{)	8{)	8{)	8{)	8{)	8{)	8{)	

-- 
   John N. Florence     **** All opinions expressed herein are mine
   Intergraph Corp.     **** and mine alone. ****
   Huntsville, Al.      uunet!infonode!florence OR florence@infonode.ingr.com
   O.K., O.K. !!!! .....I'm voting AGAINST Bush and FOR change...............  
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,misc.consumers
From: lowry@watson.ibm.com (Andy Lowry)
Subject: Re: Credit report
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 20:23:03 GMT
Distribution: na
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
	<1992Sep1.143132.9181@ms.uky.edu>
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center

In article <1992Sep1.143132.9181@ms.uky.edu> kherron@ms.uky.edu (Kenneth Herron) writes:
 > You're forgetting one thing:  TRW is doing this out of the goodness of
 > their hearts.  There is (unfortunately) no law forcing them to give out
 > free credit reports except after a credit denial so unless you've just
 > been denied credit they can attach whatever conditions they like to the
 > free report.

I think this may have changed recently.  I had heard something about
some legislation that would soon kick in requiring credit agencies to
furnish free credit histories to individuals who request them, at
least once per year.  Presumably such legislation would include at
least a rough idea of what form the requests should take.

I'm not certain of this.  Has anybody else heard such a thing?
--
Andy Lowry, lowry@watson.ibm.com, (914) 784-7925
IBM Research, P.O. Box 704, Yorktown Heights, NY  10598
From: hogan@csl.sri.com (Emmett Hogan)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Garage Door Question....
Date: 3 Sep 92 22:36:23 GMT
Organization: Computer Science Lab, SRI International, Menlo Park, CA.


Hi All,

First off, please excuse me if you have seen this message before, I
seem to have been having problems with my outgoing news.

Now on with my question....

I am looking at replacing my garage door, the current one is way
beyond repair.  I have seen three different types (of sectional
doors): Steel, Wood, or Medex. Medex looks kinda like pressboard to
me, but it looks pretty nice when it's painted.  I am leaning towards
the Medex, but I tought I'd check to see if anyone had any suggestions
or warnings when it comes to buying a garage door.

Thanks in advance,
Emmett


--
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Emmett Hogan              Computer Science Lab, SRI International
Inet: Emmett_Hogan@csl.sri.com
UUCP: {ames, decwrl, pyramid, sun}!fernwood!hercules!Emmett_Hogan
USMAIL: EL231, 333 Ravenswood Ave, Menlo Park, CA  94025
PacBell: (415)859-3232 (voice), (415)859-2844 (fax)
ICBM: 37d 27' 14" North, 122d 10' 52" West
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: 21329JMK@MSU
Subject: Re: 89 Re: Exterior House Trim Painting
Organization: Michigan State University
Date: 4 Sep 1992 10:16:58 EDT

------------------------- Original Article -------------------------

  Follow the instructions I gave for old houses, deleting unnecessary
  steps.  In particular:


  As with the old house, 100% acrylic latex from a good brand should do
  the trick.  Only use two coats if one coat doesn't hide well.

Any changes when painting aluminum siding? Also thanks for your input.


Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: removing water stain from paneling??
From: gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston)
Date: Wed, 02 Sep 92 19:58:35 CDT
Organization: Garys' Home for Obsolete Computers

IANR009@UNLVM.UNL.EDU (D. Kirk Darnell) writes:

> We recently moved into a home which had previously had water damage in the
> basement.  The bottom half of the basement walls are finished with light oak,
> rough cut paneling.  A few places around the room have stains from the water
> that was in the basement.  Is there any possibility of removing these stains?
> There not incredibly obvious but once you notice them, it becomes a bother (o
> of those imperfections).  Thanks for any advice...

The waterstains are probably all the way through the boards. Most likely,
you can cover them with a dark stain so they won't be noticable at all.

Gary Heston, at home.....
gary@cdthq.uucp
From: simnet@ssc-vax.boeing.com (Mark R Poulson)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: 12 gauge vs 14 gauge wiring price
Keywords: electrical wiring
Date: 27 Aug 92 18:32:39 GMT
Organization: Boeing Defense and Space Group, Seattle WA

In article <1992Aug24.210136.678@cs.cornell.edu>, chrisb@cs.cornell.edu (Chris Buckley) writes:
> Anybody have a rough ballpark figure for the cost of building a
> new house with 12 gauge wiring instead of 14-gauge?

Its going to depend on a number of variables. The wire itself, I think only
costs about $10 more for each 250 foot spool. What will probably be needed
though, is larger device boxes (18 cu in minimum, and preferably 21 cu in).
These only cost maybe $.20 to $.40 more each, but you will have a lot of
them. Its also harder to work with, so the electrician is going to take a
little longer -- this is probably the biggest expense, but should only be
a few hundred dollars. Adding all this up, it seems difficult to even hit
$500.

> 
> We're having a 4 bedroom, 2400 sq ft house built in central NJ,
> and the price the builder has quoted us is $2100.  This is a
> lot higher than I expected, even considering that this is
> tract housing.  (In general, options seem to cost about 20% more
> than they would in a custom house)
> 
> A major reason we want the 12 gauge is more reliable power so we can
> plug in computers anywhere in the house.  Does anybody have other
> suggestions?

Wire size isn't going to affect reliability at all. All bigger wire is going
to do for you is provide less voltage drop. This should only matter if the
first outlet box is more than 50 feet (cabling length) away from the circuit
breaker and then only if you're approaching the maximum current allowed for
the circuit (12 - 15 amps for 14 gauge). If you also are going to ask for the
circuit breakers to be upped to 20A, then you'll get 4 more amps of continuous
power available on each circuit (16A -vs- 12A). If this is really what you
want, then be sure to specify it!

I would inquire about how many SEPARATE 15A circuits the builder normally
installs. If its roughly one per room, then you'll be fine (unless you want
to use a hair dryer while running your computer). If its more typical
of tract housing, then you probably will have a few rooms (and thier lights)
on a given circuit. If it as me, I'd prefer more 15A circuits than fewer 20A
ones. Perhaps this will cost you less. The ultimate would be every room
(especially bathrooms) has its outlets and lights on its own 15A circuit. The
kitchen would be an exception, with a 15A circuit for each big appliance, the
2 required 20A general circuits, and its lights put on the fridge circuit.

Note that PC's (with its card slots full) and a monitor usually only need
about 800 watts (7 amps). Its the big printers that get you! As long as you
don't have any motors on the same circuit as the PC (motors are normally on
kitchen and garage circuits), you should be fine (unless you fire up that hair
dryer on the same circuit).

		Mark
From: noring@netcom.com (Jon Noring)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: How do I remove rust stains from cement?
Date: 3 Sep 92 16:59:42 GMT
Article-I.D.: netcom.svln-g+.noring
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest)

In article nmrdb@vms.macc.wisc.edu (BEVERLY SEAVEY) writes...

>Our basement floor has rust stains both on cement and on old linoleum.
>How can I remove rust stains from each material?

Try Amway's Redu Rust Remover.  It's not cheap, but it does work well.  It
is also good for taking rust out of porcelain and white fabrics.

Jon Noring

-- 
=============================================================================
| Jon Noring          | noring@netcom.netcom.com | "The dogs bark, but the  |
| JKN International   | IP    : 192.100.81.100   |  caravan moves on."      |
| 1312 Carlton Place  | Phone : (510) 294-8153   | "Pack your lunch, sit in |
| Livermore, CA 94550 | V-Mail: (510) 862-1101   |  the bushes, and watch." |
=============================================================================
"If your annual income today is $50,000, you have the same buying power as
the average coal miner did in 1949, adjusted for taxes and inflation," John
Sestina, nationally recognized Certified Financial Planner;  quoted in 1987.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house