HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Subject: Cannondale MTB prices
From: mikem@otago.ac.nz
Date: 12 Oct 92 13:22:54 NZDT
Organization: University of Otago, Dunedin, New Zealand

A friend of mine has recently had his MTB stolen and is looking to replace it
with a Cannondale, he is going overseas soon and was wondering if it would be
cheaper to get one elsewhere.  I have listed the price in NZ$ and would like to
know the price in your country (US, Canada, England, etc).

Thanks in advance.

      V3000 XTR $6882
Delta V2000      5425
  "   V1000      4851
      M2000 XT   3348
      M1000      2898

Also 2 tri bikes
      R700       3198
      R600       2748

Cheers, Mike.
-- 
================================================================================
Michael J Moore    : Information Services      :  mikem@otago.ac.nz       O
        o          : Computing Services Centre :                       ~~~~
     --()--        : University of Otago       :                        /##\
    \  /\  /       : Dunedin                   :                       / // \
     \)  (/        : New Zealand               :                     ---/-----' 
      \  /                                                         ---------'
================================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
From: Groenke <kevin@ssc.space.umn.edu>
Subject: Re: Elevated chainstay MTBs
Organization: Shepherd Labs
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1a2
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 19:37:35 GMT

Howdy Eric.

I've had and Extreme Comp for about 5 years.
Wheen I bought the bike, I thought that the elevated frame design was the
best thing since sliced bread.

I've had time to rethink my decision.  I still like elevated chainstays. 
My chain isnt always whackin against my stays on gonzo rocky downhills,
and hasn't ever gotten wraped into them, it's a little easier to ride
over logs with the added clearence, and the frame still looks cool.

BUT!

The pound or two of extra metal in an elevated frame really hurts,  I've
gotten my Extreme down to about 26lbs, but the MB2  comes below that
stock.  
Even with  all that extra metal, the Extreme is less than rigid.(Other
elevated designs differ here.)  The flex in the frame is especially
apparent under load, but it's much easier to move an Extreme's bottom
bracket than a traditional frames. 

In other aspects, elevated frames differ little from traditional triangle
frames.  Some models have very short chainstays (-16 in) which aids in
climbing but makes the bike squeemish at high speeds.  
It seems possiable that some elevated designs do sacrafice strength (the
bottom bracket on my Extreme comes to mind again), but I wouldn't say it
is an unavoidable characteristic of elevated designs.

If it makes you feel better I am still perfectly happy with my Extreme,
and it sounds that you got a good deal.  If you want my hints to losing
weight let me know and I'll send you the list and the costs.

Happy riding!!
***********************************************
Kevin J. Groenke	
Student Lab Services Coordinator				___			o		 					_	o
Shepherd Laboratories							_____		( 		\-						(  	\-
University of Minnesota						___		(*) \ (*)			(*) \ (*)
From: tjr@cbnewsc.cb.att.com (thomas.j.roberts)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Subject: Re: roads & inconsiderate motorists
Date: 13 Oct 92 16:38:57 GMT
Article-I.D.: cbnewsc.1992Oct13.163857.14742
Organization: AT&T

So much negativism about cops, I had to post a favorable note...

A while back I was riding on the RH edge of Ill 59 (the only road
between two back roads 1/2 mile apart). Here it is 2-lane, with a
white edge-of-road stripe about 6" in from the edge of the pavement.
A car passed, and I was immediately hit on the back by a thrown
object. Fortunately I was able to maintain balance, and continued
riding. Just ahead another car had pulled over - a witness who said
it had been a green tennis ball, and he had the license number of
the car. I thanked him, and rode to the nearest police station
(Bartlett, IL), and reported the incident. After haggling over
where exactly it took place (to make sure it was in their
jurisdiction), the officer looked up the license number, and
called the owner (it is now 30-40 minutes after the incident, and
the owner lived 60 miles away). The officer told me that the owner
reported that his son had the car, and was indeed planning to drive
through Bartlett with a friend. The officer thought that one kid
was going to get a strong talking-to from his dad....

I learned that since no person or property was damaged, this
was an "incident", not an "accident", and that incidents were
given lower priority than accidents. Since it was a slow
Saturday morning, the police were able to devote some time to
this one.

Tom Roberts	att!ihlpl!tjrob		TJROB@IHLPL.ATT.COM
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
From: koren@fc.hp.com (Steve Koren)
Subject: Re: High beam problems (was Re: roads & inconsiderate motorists)
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 14:32:11 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Fort Collins Site
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1.3 PL5

Peter Hickey (pete@aix1.uottawa.ca) wrote:

> >  (Now, if I can just find a mongo spotlight to blink in drivers' eyes when
> >  they refuse to turn down their high beams at night, then I'd be truly

I have a 35 watt headlamp that I mostly keep pointed down at the road
about 20 feet in front of my bike.  Before my recent change to a new
mounting system, I could swivel this light by hand when riding.  If
somebody didn't dim their brights for me, I swiveled the light up to a
level position.  35 watts head on was always successful in convincing
folks of the wisdom of dimming their lights for oncoming traffic.  If
that didn't work, the light had a 70 watt mode too, but I never had to
use that.

    - steve
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
From: praetzel@marconi.uwaterloo.ca (Eric Praetzel)
Subject: Re: Do Kevlar tires work?
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 16:37:31 GMT

In my experience they work for some flats.  However, I have had a glass
sliver cut right thru a brand new tire and the kevlar weave (tire casing
was partially kevlar).  I was also able to cut thru the tire very easily
with a sharp knife or any sharp object.  For those sorts of flats a 
polypro liner (Mr. Tuffy ...) will work very well assuming that it is lined
up with the tire that is in contact with the road.
  I would not buy a kevlar tire with a weave in the casing again.  I don't
have enough cuts to make it worth while.  On my commuter I use Mr Tuffy
protectors.  A cheap solution is just to make the tire thicker by putting an
old tire inside your current tire (if you are using a large tire ie 1.5 to 2").
  - Eric 
  - Eric
From: Roy_Smyth@mindlink.bc.ca (Roy Smyth)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Subject: Re: bolts that stay on.
Date: 13 Oct 92 06:17:19 GMT
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada
Distribution: world

Have you tried thread adhesive?

Cycle over to your local auto parts store and ask for a tube of
**removeable** Locktite.  Don't buy the permanent stuff.  Works like a charm
but you should still check the nuts and bolts every six months or so.
Xref: sparky rec.bicycles:23038 rec.bicycles.rides:254
From: dbrus.Unify.Com.jenny@unify.uucp (Jennifer Zheng)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles,rec.bicycles.rides
Subject: touring info sought
Date: 8 Oct 92 00:54:07 GMT
Reply-To: dbrus.Unify.Com.jenny@unify.uucp (Jennifer Zheng)
Distribution: ca
Organization: Unify Corporation, Sacramento, CA, USA


Hi netters,  I'm seeking first hand experience for getting around
SF Bay area.  In particular, I'm interested in connections between
the following points:
	Sacramento and Napa Valley
	Sacramento and Marin County
	Sacramento and Richmond/Oakland area
	Sacramento and SF
	Sacramento and San Jose area
	**part way** for any of above connections

Would some kind soul tell me what they think is the best way
to go between these points and why, and distance/climbing/traffic
/road conditions involved.  (Of course I could experiment on my
own, except it would take up too many weekends to find out :-).

Also, what's the latest weather/road/traffic situation around Lake Tahoe
(88, 4, 89, 267, etc), for bicycles I mean?  Is it predictable at all?
If so, what can I expect, say, for this weekend (and better yet, the
rest of October)?

Above all, I'd like to hear comments/suggestions for good racks and
panniers and camping gears (for extensive touring).  I know, I might
find it in FAQ, but I guess what I really need is some motivation,
inspiration, and suppport, to get into pannier touring.

Any and all help is gratefully appreciated!

jen
									    //
B. Jennifer Zheng,	916-649-3576	         ----  _~o      ~o 	  //
jenny@unify.com,	2/14 down, 28/6 to go! -----   \<,      <|\	//
Ride Bike.		                         ---- O/ O      / >   //
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles,rec.bicycles.rides
From: dbrus.Unify.Com.jenny@unify.uucp (Jennifer Zheng)
Subject: Death Valley by Moonlight
Reply-To: dbrus.Unify.Com.jenny@unify.uucp (Jennifer Zheng)
Organization: Unify Corporation, Sacramento, CA, USA
Distribution: ca
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 92 23:56:09 GMT


The brocure just came in (snail) mail.  It'll be on Saturday 14 Nov,
a 75 miler and a 135 miler (metric and double metric), the fee ($35
and $42 respectively) includes Tshirt.  I think there's a limit of
100 riders (but unsure).  No info on climbing.  It's put together by
Wandervogel folks.

From all I've heard, it's a unique experience not to be missed.

Cheers,
									    //
B. Jennifer Zheng,	916-649-3576	         ----  _~o      ~o 	  //
jenny@unify.com,	2/14 down, 28/6 to go! -----  `\<,      <|\	//
Ride Bike.		                         ---- O/ O      / >   //
From: erc@netcom.com (Eric Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Subject: Bridgestone
Date: 11 Oct 92 21:50:02 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)

The local bicycle shop in my neighborhood sells Bridgestone bicycles.
Their price for a Bridgestone XO-2 is $435.  Is this a good deal?  Are
other brands higher quality for less money?
From: nevai@ops.mps.ohio-state.edu (Paul Nevai)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Subject: Re: Commuting in rain
Date: 14 Oct 1992 17:55:05 GMT
Organization: Department of Mathematics, The Ohio State University
NNTP-Posting-Host: ops.mps.ohio-state.edu

In article <2928009307.0.p00004@psilink.com> "Michael Smith" etc.
>>Hello.  I was wondering, how do all you folks deal with commuting in
>>the rain?[....] What I haven't figured out was how to keep my feet
>>and books dry. 
>

Well, I'm in the enviable situation that I live 3 miles from work. So if I
have time I walk (on a 5 mile route), if it rains I walk straight, if it
rains VERY HEAVILY then I walk 1.5 miles and then I take the (free) campus
bus, if I'm in a hurry, I ride my bike, and, if I need to carry a heavy stuff
such as a LaserPrinter then (no I don't drive) I ask my secretary to pick it
up.  Sometimes, on Sunday's, I drive to work to fill up my refrigerator etc.

Paul Nevai                            pali+@osu.edu (Internet)
Department of Mathematics             nevai@mps.ohio-state.edu (Internet)
The Ohio State University             nevai@ohstpy (BITNET)
P.O. Box 3341                         1-614-292-3317 (Office)
Columbus, Ohio 43210-0341             1-614-292-5310 (Answering Machine)
The United States of America          1-614-459-5615 (FAX)
From: alavalle@seqp4.sequoia.com (Art LaValle)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Subject: Re: bike lights
Summary: Nightsun Opinion
Date: 11 Oct 92 15:43:52 GMT
Organization: Sequoia Systems Inc., Marlboro, Mass.

In article <Bvv2tt.15F@brunel.ac.uk>, dt90nmw@brunel.ac.uk (Nicholas M Wiles) writes:
> 
> I am hoping to produce a lighting system that is as good, if not better than the NTI, but a "tad" cheaper.
>Failing that I will at least try and improve its aesthetics, as at present it just looks like two lightbulbs >stuck on your handlebars.                                                                          ^^^^^^^^^^

RE: Nightsun Team Issue

They may look like two lightbulbs but they sure work a damm sight better than two lightbulbs. I've
got a system mounted on my Off Road bike and I think the system is well thought out and meets
it's design criteria. Even though the light units themself are not much bigger than what you get
on a standard flashlight, they project enough light so that even an ageing old biker like myself
(the old eyes just ain't what they used to be) can still ride through his favorite New England
forest trails at night (this is very surrealistic and I may just give up riding in the day :-)).

The lights also seem to be well protected from damage because of the mounting bracket design. They
just situnder my bars and in a crash the bar, stem, and cables should take all the impact and should
leave the lights unharmed. I'm also impressed with the ruggedness of the system, especially
under off road use and abuse.

Recently I had to make a decision whether to fork out $300+ for a front suspension fork for my off
road bike or $190 for a lighting system. I think I made the right choice (disregard the fact that
I also saved myself over $100) because I still don't know why I need a suspension fork but I sure
know why I need a light system...
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
From: naru@eng.umd.edu (Naruhisa Takashima)
Subject: Re: clipless pedal options
Date: Wed, 07 Oct 92 13:13:50 GMT
Organization: College of Engineering, University of Maryland, College Park
Originator: naru@valkyrie.eng.umd.edu


The biggest difference between Time pedals and others is that,
Time not only allows for rotation, but lateral movement as well.  Also,
the distance between the pedal axle and your foot is smaller than other
pedals. 

Hope this helps,

Naru Takashima
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Subject: Re: Do Kevlar tires work?
From: jeremy@cs.aukuni.ac.nz (Jeremy Gibbons)
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 21:50:06 GMT
 <1992Oct3.223033.5118@bitrot.in-berlin.de> <1992Oct5.015319.22430@yarra-glen.aaii.oz.au> <7200@tekig7.PEN.TEK.COM>
Organization: Computer Science Dept. University of Auckland
Cc: jeremy@cs.aukuni.ac.nz

In <7200@tekig7.PEN.TEK.COM> davids@tekig1.PEN.TEK.COM (David Suryan) writes:

>In article <9210020537.AA07573@mcs.drexel.edu> upsiu@mcs.drexel.edu (Paul Siu) writes:
>>Do Kevlar tires really prevent flats?

>In my experience I get as many flats with kevlar belted tires as the with the
>regular tires. It appears that once a thorn or shard of glass gets into the
>rubber it stays there until it works its way through the kevlar. I suspect
>that the kevlar only serves to slow down the process of the thorn or glass
>puncturing the inner tube over regular tires. 

This has been my experience. It means I don't need to check my tires for
thorns so often; I have a longer period of grace.

I have a tool a bit like a small screwdriver, except that it ends in a
point (like those penknives for removing stones from horses' hooves, only
smaller). It's great for poking around in holes in the tyre to remove
little bits of glass.

Jeremy
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
From: bgeer@javelin.sim.es.com (Bob Geer)
Subject: Re: Schwinn files for Chapter 11 protection
Reply-To: bgeer@javelin.sim.es.com
Organization: Evans & Sutherland Computer Corporation
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 13:38:05 GMT

jdu@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (john.d.unruh) writes:
>I have also heard from former employees that the management at Schwinn is
>pretty bad, and that the board of directors was very conservative and they
>would never try anything really different.

Isn't this true of most American companies?  At least, most of those
I've been associated with -- personality above productivity gets you
promoted everytime!!!

Ooops...wrong newsgroup...never mind!!!

--
From: hosken@spss.com (Bill Hosken)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Looking for sharpening stuff
Date: 13 Oct 92 18:13:16 GMT
Article-I.D.: spss.1992Oct13.181316.2737
Organization: SPSS, Inc.

In article <1bf1alINNasa@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>, bx711@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey L. Cook) writes:
> 
> I'm interested in using the chisel/plane sharpening method
> described in the March/April 1990 issue of FWW.  I'm looking for
> a place where I can buy 4000 and 8000 grit water stones, and
> nagura stones.
> 
> My Trend-Lines and Woodworker's Supply catalogues have 6000 grit
> stones, but not the 4000 or 8000.  Any suggestions for a good
> source of these items?  Is there a good source for sharpening
> accessories in general?
> 

The 1993 Garrett Wade Tool Catalog has a good selection.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: saksa@col.hp.com (Tom Saksa)
Subject: Re: engine-oiled cherry
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 15:53:09 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division

"craig treleaven" <craig.treleaven@canrem.com> writes:
> UN:
> 
>    I have inherited a nice cherry drop-leaf table with spool legs.  The
> trouble is that it was used in a garage for a few decades and the top is
> heavily soaked with engine oil.  Any ideas on how to clean it?  Or
> should I just make a new top?
> 
I have had good luck in restoring very badly damaged and oil
stained wood using a water soluble wood stripper such as Safest.
It seemed to work better than the strippers that rinse off with
mineral spirits.  Soapy water by itself does not seem to do much
more than wash away the top most layer of oil and dirt.  If you
try this stripper, expect to do a few applications and to completely
refinish the piece.  

People who restore antique guns have this same problem and use a
product called whiting.  It looks just like chalk powder and
probably is.  They mix it with solvent to make a paste and then
brush it on.  This is supposed to wick the oil out as the solvent
evaporates.  I have tried whiting, but did not find it to work
as well as a real stripper.  

I have also been told that the old timers use oven cleaner as a
"trick" to remove oil from wood.  The person who told me claimed
that it worked well.  However, I just could just not bring myself
to try this on a nice piece of wood.
From: ewbaxter@spectrum.xerox.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Grizzly jointer question
Keywords: Grizzly jointer pulley alignment
Date: 8 Oct 92 18:58:48 GMT
Reply-To: baxter.wbst129@xerox.com (Eric Baxter)
Followup-To: rec.woodworking
Distribution: na
Organization: Xerox
Originator: baxter@ultracat

Hi all,
  I just purchased a Grizzly 6 inch jointer and was assembling it last night
when a funny thing happened.  I went to align the pulley on the cutter head
to the pulley on the motor and they were about an inch out of line, even when
I had moved the cutter head/table assembly as far as it would go.  I checked to
make sure the dust chute bottom was correctly oriented, it was.  The only 
solution I could find would be to reverse the pulley on the motor shaft, such
that the set screw is towards the motor instead of away from it, like it came
from the factory.  On closer examination, the instruction book photo of the 
alignment procedure shows the pulley reversed, however, all other photos of
motor show it mounted normally.  My question to you Grizzly jointer owners 
out there, did you also reverse the pulley on the motor shaft to get the
correct alignment?  
  I called grizzly and they said "Yeah, go ahead and turn the pulley
around", however I have usually mounted pulleys with the set screw facing out.
What do you think?

	Eric
baxter.wbst129@xerox.com

P.S.  I am also considering reboring the slots in the cabinet for the mounting
bolts.
From: RHG@PSUVM.PSU.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Futon Plans Anyone?
Date: 16 Oct 92 21:45:08 GMT
Organization: Penn State University
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Comments:     Warning -- original Sender: tag was NETNEWS@PSUVM.PSU.EDU

My wife wants me to spend upwards of $180 for a futon frame, a
frame that lets you convert one of those Japanese folding mattresses
into a sofa.

Seems to me I should be able to build one for about a fifth of that.

Can anybody out there lead me to plans?
======================================================================
Robert Gannon              |  Bitnet:    RHG@PSUVM
35 Burrowes Bldg.          |  Internet:  RHG@PSUVM.PSU.EDU
Penn State                 |  Phone:     814 355-4800 or 355-0943
University Park, PA 16802  |  Fax:       814 863-7285
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: whit@milton.u.washington.edu (John Whitmore)
Subject: Re: How do I bend an oak 4x4? (rounding it afterwards)
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1992 23:06:18 GMT

In article <1992Oct7.013906.27309@unixg.ubc.ca> daniel@redwood.ppc.ubc.ca (Daniel Ouellet) writes:
>In article <1992Oct6.022902.6699@u.washington.edu>, whit@milton.u.washington.edu (John Whitmore) writes:

>|> 	I think the consensus is to laminate; I should add that 
>|> making a half-round arch is achieved with applied force ONLY at
>|> the ends (other clamp points should have no applied stress, or
>|> the curve will be noncircular).  Some kind of rope clamp,

>I'm not sure I understand what you propose to do, but 
>recalling my undergrad classes in mechanics of
>material, you can't produce a circular arc by applying forces at both ends.

	The rope clamp will produce a sine wave shape, which is
noncircular (as you suggest).  To produce a circular arc would
require torque applied at both ends and nowhere in the middle, which
is not (IMHO) feasible for a stack of boards.

	The arc required was gentle (4" on 8'), and over such a 
span the variation from a sine to a circular arc is very small.

	John Whitmore
From: stetzer@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Frank Stetzer)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Help needed with new sander
Date: 13 Oct 1992 18:16:41 GMT
Organization: Computing Services Division, University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: 129.89.7.4
Originator: stetzer@csd4.csd.uwm.edu

I'm at the sanding stage of my first ever really decent
woodworking project and I realized there's a lot I don't
know about sanding.  Maybe someone could help me out.

   1.  My new Bosch random orbit sander (the cheap one)
       came with no instructions about how to use it
       effectively.
       (a) What speeds should I use with which grades 
           of paper?
       (b) How much pressure do I use pressing downward?
           I think it gets more random and less orbit as
           pressure increases.  Or is it the other way
           around?
       (c) Should I vary pressure and/or speed with the 
           hardness of the wood?  Or the grade of paper?

   2.  How do I go about removing all the imbedded dust
       from the project before finishing?  I spent about a 
       half hour last night sweeping dust off it with a 
       soft nylon brush and into the vacuum nozzle.  But
       I could sweep for another half hour and I'd still
       be getting dust, I think. (This is butternut with
       is very pretty but very soft).  Is this sweeping
       sufficient?

Thanks for any assistance you can give me.

==========================================================================
Frank Stetzer                                   stetzer@convex.csd.uwm.edu
Statistical Software Coordinator                P.O. Box 413
Computing Services Division                     Milwaukee, WI 53201
University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee             (414)-229-4571
From: smb@ulysses.att.com (Steven Bellovin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Planer Recommendations
Date: 15 Oct 92 18:33:53 GMT
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories

In article <2941@ceylon.gte.com>, boykin@gte.com (Joseph Boykin) writes:
> 
> OK, with all the recent talk about *why* to own a planer
> how about a discussion on *which* planer to buy.

I asked a local tool store salescritter about the reports mentioned here
that the Delta planer was buggy.  He was unaware of any generic problems
with them, though he suggested that I talk to the guy who runs the repair
part of the store.  But he did say that at one point, there was a lot
of infant mortality -- there was some glitch in the design or production
process.  That, though, has been fixed; he's no longer seeing them come
right back.