HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: dsr@philabs.philips.com (Deborah Rech)
Subject: Re: remnants
Organization: Philips Laboratories, Briarcliff, New York
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 19:49:58 GMT

Save your wool remnants for rug hooking!

Debby
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Washing hanks of wool  
From: Dawn_Scotting@kcbbs.gen.nz (Dawn Scotting)
Date: 19 Dec 92 17:56:48 GMT
Organization: Kappa Crucis Unix BBS, Auckland, New Zealand

Susan writes:  
>I have successfully reused wool yarn this way. Put the hanks into hot  
>water (as hot as it comes out of your tap) and let the hanks sit until  
  
I HOPE you are not talking about pure wool here? You can put acrylic  
wool into hot water (although I still don't recommend it) but I would  
never, never put pure wool into hot water, it shrinks like the billy-o!  
   
  ---------------------------------------------------------------------  
 | PLEASE READ THIS----As I must pay for every byte of email received  |  
 | please do NOT quote my own message back to me. pandora@kcbbs.gen.nz |  
  ---------------------------------------------------------------------  
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: ann@tessi.com (Ann Makarias)
Subject: being skimpy with fabric (WAS:silly little x-stitch Q)
Organization: Test Systems Strategies, Inc., Beaverton, Oregon
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 23:45:05 GMT

Speaking of being skimpy with fabric...

I had a bit less than a yard of fabric left from a sewing
project, and decided to make a vest for my partner from
it.  (Thanks, alt.sewing, for the suggestion!)  The fabric
was a beautiful, subtle Pendleton wool plaid. Except that 
in matching the plaids, I discovered that I was short for
one piece by about 4 inches!  Talk about frustrating!
So I decided to try to make an invisible seam.  I chose an
unobtrusive place in the plaid, and cut off the pattern
piece there, and cut the rest of the piece from a different
section of fabric.  I carefully cut the pieces to exactly
butt and applied fusable interfacing to the back.  That
took care of the support for the seam, and to hold together
the fabric itself, I handsewed it with tiny stitches between
the threads.  I'm happy to report that although it doesn't
drape like the original fabric (but for this application
it didn't matter) the seam is all but invisible.

A lot of effort to save a yard of fabric, but it's the
principle of the thing :)

Ann Makarias
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: sfenton@carr4.alleg.edu (Sue Fenton)
Subject: Re: Reusing yarn
Organization: Allegheny College
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 16:39:04 GMT

In article <1992Dec14.211510.28802@microsoft.com> linnco@microsoft.com  
(Linn Compton) writes:
> 
> 
> I think I remember reading that you can un-kink used wool
> yarn, and restore stretched wool yarn from tightly-wound 
> balls by winding it into hanks, then getting it wet. Can
> anybody give me some advice on this? What temperature water
> should I use? Can I hang the hanks on a horizontal pole to
> air-dry?
> 
I have successfully reused wool yarn this way. Put the hanks into hot  
water (as hot as it comes out of your tap) and let the hanks sit until  
thoroughly soaked. I usually just go off and do something else for a  
while, and come back to my yarn 15 or 20 minutes later. Put the hanks into  
the washer and spin dry them (don't use any water!) and then let them hang  
to dry. Good Luck.

		--Susan
From: ron.parker@uttsbbs.uucp (Ron Parker)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Natural Scottish dyestuff
Date: 12 Dec 92 10:49:00 GMT
Reply-To: ron.parker@uttsbbs.uucp (Ron Parker)
Organization: The Transfer Station BBS, Danville, CA - 510-837-4610/837-5591


 Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
 Subject: Natural Scottish dyestuffs?

On Thu, 10 Dec 1992 14:43:20 GMT fred@cc.ysu.edu (Fred Ullom) wrote:

 FU. Most texts I've been able to find on natural dyeing have dealt with north
 FU. american colonial period dyestuffs.

Although colonial, Elijah Bemniss, The Dyers Companion, Dover, $7.95
isbn 0-486-20601-7 is fun reading.  Any chance of you getting to
Edinburgh?  It has wonderful used book stores, and no doubt at least one
of them would have an old book or two on dyeing.  Maybe the Scottish
tourist people would give you some names to write to.  When I was there
25 years ago their prices were unexpectedly modest for some classics in
geology that I drooled over.

 FU. Madder(red) - common dyestuff of Eurasian origin and probably
 FU. available in Scotland.

Might have even been grown in Scotland.  It thrives here in Minnesota

 FU. ????(orange) - There are a few old tartans which had an orange or a red-orange
 FU.                This color appears to me to be too orange to be madder root.

I'll bet it was from madder.  Madder dyes orange if there isn't enough
of the root in the bath.  One needs lots of root and to keep the
temperature below about 190. F.  Even the most solid madder reds are
what one might call Chinese Red as with red lacquer items - i.e.
orangish red.  There is suspicion among some natural dyers that
cochineal and one or more of the various Brazilwood dyestuffs was used
along with madder root.  The above is a synthesis of a long string of
messages on madder dyeing on Fibernet about a year ago, plus the
personal experience of my wife a me.  I am wearing a pair of orange,
madder-dyed socks as I write this.

Ron Parker
ron.parker%uttsbbs%boo@pacbell.com
---
. QWiKerNet 0.69 . The Transfer Station BBS, Danville CA 510-837-5591

---
 . JABBER v1.2 #21 .
 . QWiKerNet 0.69 . Fibernet BBS Henning, Mn 218-583-4337
                         
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: laura@vuse.vanderbilt.edu (Laura M. Edwards)
Subject: Re: Making a French Knot
Organization: Vanderbilt University Space Electronics Research Group
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 19:05:08 GMT

In article <1992Dec10.144206.9865@ncar.ucar.edu> rehak@rap.ucar.edu (Nancy Rehak) writes:
-In article <1992Dec9.221742.16060@sequent.com> cyndie@sequent.com (Cyndie Sutherland) writes:
->
->I am making some x-stitch Christmas Ornaments.  The patterns call for
->French Knots.  What are they and how are they done??
->
-
-To make a French Knot, bring the needle up from the back at the desired position
-for the knot, wrap the thread around the needle (I always wrap twice, but I
-suppose you could wrap 3 times to get a bigger knot) and bring the needle down
-to the back in the same place where it came up.
-
-I will try to draw a picture for you:
-
-              ______|<---- needle
-                    |\
-                    |/
-                    /
-                   /|
-                   \|
-                    |\       (front of finished piece)
-                    |/
-                    /
-                   /|
-                   \|
-                    |\
-                    |/
-            --------+---------- <---- fabric
-                   /|
-          ________/ <--- thread     (back of finished piece)
-
-I can't show it in this picture, but you want to keep the wrapped thread right
-against the the fabric as you bring the needle through.  The thread used to
-wrap around the needle is the thread closest to the piece after you bring the
-needle up from the back.


Great picture!!  And great explaination.  I've saved it for my files, next
time I get asked about one!

Laura


From: karen@misty.boeing.com (Karen Robinson)
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 16:57:20 GMT
Subject: Re: Re: Tatting question
Organization: Boeing Commercial Airplane BCS Support
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles

 To keep your work portable and your hands clean, too, carry a    
 container of baby wipes or similar product in your work bag.

 I keep a large container in every car, so when my husband is driving,
 I can work on a project.  I can clean up my hands any time.

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: jeanne@austin.ibm.com ()
Subject: Re: remnants
Originator: jeanne@jksmith.austin.ibm.com
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 18:28:19 GMT
Organization: IBM Austin



I cut the wool into 4" squares and then crochet two rows
of single crochet around the edges with left over yarn.

When you have enough you can piece them together
into a granny afgan.  It's a wonderful weight afgan.

Jeanne Smith
-- 
Jeanne Sparlin Smith    IBM Advanced Workstation Division
			11400 Burnet Road
			Austin, TX  78758
			(512) 838-1109
From: xsaj@vax5.cit.cornell.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Tatting
Date: 12 Dec 92 20:13:59 EST
Distribution: rec
Organization: Cornell University

My friend Karey Solomon publishes a tatting newsletter, Tatting Times. She
also answers queries about tatting. the subscription is 10.00 a year. To 
write to her send mail to Tatting Times P.O. Box 9 Hector N.Y. 14841
Greetings, Eniko Farkas
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles,alt.sewing,news.answers
From: dmd2@ra.msstate.edu (David Dumas)
Subject: Italian silk
Organization: Mississippi State University
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1992 01:32:17 GMT

Does anyone know of a good source for quality Italian silk?

Thanks

David Dumas
dmd2@ra.msstate.edu
-- 
David Dumas
dmd2@Isis.MsState.Edu
From: smack@aero.org (Susan B. McCormack)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Re: Rug Hooking Sources
Date: 15 Dec 1992 01:09:47 GMT
Organization: The Aerospace Corporation, El Segundo, CA
NNTP-Posting-Host: aerospace.aero.org

Here is another source for rugging hooking supplies -

Jane Olson Rug Studio
Hooked and braided rug supplies
PO Box 351
Hawthorne CA  90250

310-643-5902

She has many original designs that are wonderful.  She is also a great
teacher and has workshops both in her studio and travels around the
country teaching.   She has helped me many times and I highly recommend her.

Susan
From: sbowen@gmuvax.gmu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Re: Felting
Date: 18 Dec 92 12:52:17 -0500
Organization: George Mason University, Fairfax, VA.


Corridale is (as I can remember) considered an "medium" type of fleece on the
fast-to-slow scale of wool felting times. (But that is from memory and so
is suspect :-).

I have felted Corridale in the washer in one full, regular wash cycle with
the water on warm. I was making (or trying to make) slippers.

The best thing I know to do is process the wool as if you were going to
use it for felting THEN felt over a form of a set size - say a 3x5"
rectangle. (Or wrap it in smooth cloth, put it in a nylon stocking, and toss
it in the washer.) Then measure the felted piece to see what the percentage
shrinkage was.

Recently, a woman from my spinning group, the Springwater Spinners, brought in
her felting project. It was a pair of felt boots that had astonishing few lumps.
She had taped an empty plastic soda (pop) bottle to an empty bleach bottle
with waterproof tape to form the foot and ankle sections. Then she partially
felted some wool, wrapped it around the form, tied it in place, covered it,
and threw it in the washer. In three days and approximately 3 fleeces she
made 14 pairs as Christmas gifts.

So now for questions of my own. There are rolling pins (I think for
Scandinavian baking delicacies) that are completely notched over their
rolling surface. Has anyone tried one of those for felting? Or tried stuffing
a cloth form with styrofoam packing material and felting *over* that?

Good Luck!

Sue
sbowen@gmuvax.gmu.edu

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: nancy@PACorp.com (Nancy Covey)
Subject: Re: CROCHET: Help Teaching Lefty
Summary: Just teach your friend right handed
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 21:39:11 GMT
Organization: Performance Awareness Corp.
Followup-To: rec.crafts.textiles

Unless your friend has a major problem with it, I would just teach
him/her to knit right handed.  I am left-handed ( I can't even eat
right handed) but I have no problems knitting and crocheting right-handed.
I think it is easier in the long run from the perspective of reading
books and magazines that describe techniques for stiches etc that
are (almost) always from the perspective of a rightie.  

If you still need help teaching left-handed, there is a beginning
"Learn to Crochet" booklet that shows both left-handed and right-handed
crochet.  I don't know the exact title but if you need it, send
me e-mail and I'll look up the reference for you.

Good luck from a leftie trapped in a right-handed world but making due.

Nancy Covey Jenkins
uunet!prevue!nancy
From: votava@fndaud.fnal.gov (Margaret Votava)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Making your own cross stich patterns
Date: 19 Dec 1992 00:44:45 GMT
Organization: Fermi National Accelerator Laboratory, Batavia IL
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: fndaue.fnal.gov



Hi,

	A few of weeks ago, someone posted a request on how to make your
own cross stich patterns. I hadn't time to reply at the time, and now I can't
find the article. Sorry if this has already been mentioned.

	You need a picture of what you want to transfer, clear graph paper
of various grids (ie, transparencies), and regular paper graph paper.
Simple place the clear graph paper on the picture you want to cross stich
and copy to the paper graph. By varying the grids of the clear graph paper
and the type of material, you can have a wide range of finished product sizes.

	I've only done this once. I had a 2" square picture of my father's
army emblem (it was the actual patch itself). By using a small grid of clear
graph paper, I made him a 3" x 5" wallhanging for Christmas. It was simple to
do and came out pretty well; however, the design itself was very simple.
There were only a few colors and no shading.

	Hope this helps,
	Margaret Votava
From: martini@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (ok)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Re: Italian silk
Date: 16 Dec 92 17:19:43 GMT
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin, Austin TX

oops.. make that any silk, for the subject.. 

does anyone know of a mail-oriented source for plain, white, thin silk?  how
much would a minimum order need to be?

and what is italian silk?  a set of fancy colors?  weave?  pattern?
From: perry1@husc11.harvard.edu (Alexis Perry)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Sweater for my Dad
Date: 14 Dec 92 15:03:43 GMT
Article-I.D.: husc3.1992Dec14.100344.18471
Distribution: world
Organization: Harvard University Science Center

Hi everyone!! I've been dying to finally get to do this -- to finally
talk about the sweater I just finished for my Dad.  I started on Nov. 1 and
finished last night.  Sure, I had a chem test this morning that I probably
failed, but I was almost done with the sweater and couldn't just stop
to do something trivial like study.  I mean, you've got to have your      
priorities in life.

Anyway, the sweater is a Pingouin design -- a blue and black vest, black
1x1 ribbing on the bottom, black cables on the bottom half and blue
and black hound's tooth pattern on the top half.  It was my first
multicolor project.  I used huge cones of yarn, y'know, the ones usually
sold to weavers?  What a great bargain!! I had lots of fun, which isn't
over yet.  Tonight, to make sure it will fit, I get to go up to any 
appropiately sized cute guy in my dorm and ask to borrow his body.  Talk
about a direct pick up line!  Well, gotta go.  Have to start studying
for the chem final to make up for this morning's test.  Have to start 
knitting everyone else's Christmas gifts.  Have to scout for appropriately
sized guys...

Alexis Perry
"The Knitting-Pre-Med-Who's-NEVER-Going-To-Get-Into-Med-School-But-Will-
Leave-College-With-A-Lot-Of-Nifty-Knitted-Goods"
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: kkriebl@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Karen Kriebl)
Subject: Wanted:  8 Harness Loom
Organization: The Ohio State University
Distribution: oh
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 18:50:00 GMT

I'm looking to purchase an eight harness floor loom.  Preferably
in working condition.

Karen
292-4577
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: marcia@rap.ucar.edu (Marcia Politovich)
Subject: Re: Mohair and Vogue Knitting Questions
Keywords: mohair
Organization: NCAR, Research Application Program
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 20:33:48 GMT

In article <zukor.724533821@blacks.jpl.nasa.gov> zukor@blacks.jpl.nasa.gov (Karen Zukor) writes:
>I got lucky recently, and was able to buy some mohair (60%)
>fairly cheaply.  It is two mixed dye lots, but I can't tell
>the difference myself, though I know it may show in the end.
>I have always wanted mohair, so I am very happy.  But I have 
>a couple questions.
>
>1.  I made a test swatch, and discovered it was very difficult
>    to take out stitches.  All the puffy parts got tangled.
>    Any tips on take out stitches in mohair?

  Just pull harder.... I am currently ripping out a sweater I 
  knit several years ago (see next question). 
>
>2.  I want to use the first pattern in the '92/93 Vogue Knitting
>    magazine.  Has anyone tried this pattern?  It's a pink, short
>    mohair (of course!) cardigan (though my mohair is blue/gray).
>    What do the sizes mean?  Is the bust measurement over or under
>    the bust?
>
  I knit this pattern - it's the one with the buttons down the
  front? (if not, that was in the same issue...) in bright orange
  mohair. Liked it for awhile but I am rather short and the pattern,
  being somewhat boxy, just wasn't quite right. Also with the 
  garter stitch it seemed to stretch out quite a bit and got a 
  pretty funny shape to it. Am re-knitting the yarn as a v-neck
  with a lacy pattern stitch, closer fitting. Also - the garter 
  stitch combined with the fluffy mohair makes the sweater 
  rather large looking and bright orange didn't help this...

  Bust size is usually right over the largest part of the bust. 
  (Jeez, I hate that term....). Seems to me that Vogue Knitting
  usually has the definitions of their sizes in every issue. 

>3.  The pattern says to use two threads of the mohair together.
>    Is this the best way to combine the two dye lots?  I may not
>    have equal amounts, so later parts may just be one dye lot.
>

 I didn't use two threads together. That would be a good way to 
 combine dye lots, though. Another way to do this is, when changing,
 inter-knit the two skeins for several rows first (one row of one
 dye lot, the next of the other, etc...) Or make the color change
 in a place where it won't be noticed so much -- the lower back, 
 etc... 
>Any tips welcome!   
>
>Karen Zukor
 
 Hope this helped... good luck - Marcia P.

>e-mail:   zukor@logos.jpl.nasa.gov  or zukor@blacks.jpl.nasa.gov


Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: zukor@blacks.jpl.nasa.gov (Karen Zukor)
Subject: Mohair and Vogue Knitting Questions
Keywords: mohair
Organization: Image Analysis Systems Group, JPL
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 19:23:41 GMT

I got lucky recently, and was able to buy some mohair (60%)
fairly cheaply.  It is two mixed dye lots, but I can't tell
the difference myself, though I know it may show in the end.
I have always wanted mohair, so I am very happy.  But I have 
a couple questions.

1.  I made a test swatch, and discovered it was very difficult
    to take out stitches.  All the puffy parts got tangled.
    Any tips on take out stitches in mohair?

2.  I want to use the first pattern in the '92/93 Vogue Knitting
    magazine.  Has anyone tried this pattern?  It's a pink, short
    mohair (of course!) cardigan (though my mohair is blue/gray).
    What do the sizes mean?  Is the bust measurement over or under
    the bust?

3.  The pattern says to use two threads of the mohair together.
    Is this the best way to combine the two dye lots?  I may not
    have equal amounts, so later parts may just be one dye lot.

Any tips welcome!   

Karen Zukor
e-mail:   zukor@logos.jpl.nasa.gov  or zukor@blacks.jpl.nasa.gov
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
From: konrad@mace.cc.purdue.edu (Bill Konrad)
Subject: Re: Blue-green 'algae' are DEAD!
Organization: Purdue University
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 14:25:15 GMT

In article <1992Dec14.195438.27806@bagend.uucp> jan@bagend.uucp (Jan Isley) writes:
>anbo@wuee1.wustl.edu (Albrecht Jander) writes:
>
>Yes, Maracyn, aka erithromycin, will kill the blue/green meanies.
>It will also kill your filter and therefore, your fish.
>
>>Besides those purists who absolutely refuse to use any drugs in their
>>aquariums, some people have raised concerns about the use of Maracyn:
>
>>1) It may destroy other usefull bacteria, particulary those in your
>>   biological filter responsible for decomposing amonia.
>
>Bacteria do not carry cards identifying them as usefull.  Antibiotics
>do not care, either, they try to kill them all.  If you think otherwise,
>you are simply incorrect.  This is not subject to debate, Maracyn and
>other antibiotics will kill your filter.

But there are at least two distinct types of antibiotics which affect
different types of bacteria: gram-negative and gram-positive. I can
never remember which is which for the treatment of blue-green algae,
but my understanding is that blue-green algae is susceptible to one
type of antibiotic and that bio-filter bacteria are not susceptible to
that variety of antibiotic. 

I would like to hear more about this (Is it in the FAQ? I looked
recently and couldn't find anything). I have no personal experience
with using anti-biotics to treat blue-green algae, but as I now have a
tank with a persistent growth, I'm considering using the anti-bios. 

-- 
Bill Konrad
konrad@mace.cc.purdue.edu 
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: "larry wheatley" <larry.wheatley@canrem.com>
Subject: (m)hair algae removal
Reply-To: "larry wheatley" <larry.wheatley@canrem.com>
Organization: Canada Remote Systems
Distribution: rec
Date: 17 Dec 92 13:15:06 EST

Hi All, 
        I have had hair algae im my reef for a while now.
At first some burgandy sea grass or mat then some small green 
tear drop shaped leaves, then some nice bright green hair algae.

Now I have brown lumps and even some black beard algae!!!

I hate this stuff.  I cleaned all the glass and a few rocks!
Turned off the MH's and only give 4 hours of full spec and 10
03 actinic's.  Clean the filters.  Vacum the tank and hope for
it to go away?   I am sure this won't be enough!

Can anybody please leave some more suggestions!

I was thinking I should get some macro algae to grow and that
would choke out the light for the hair algae?
My yellow tang can only eat so much.

I was thinking maybe I should have bought a RO unit instead
of a ozone generator.  I must have too many nutrients and/or
phosphates?   What will remove phosphates from my water?
HELP!

Larry Wheatley
---
  DeLuxe 1.21 #4132  I tried the rest but bought the best!!!!
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
From: unclesam@jhunix.hcf.jhu.edu (Sam C Chi)
Subject: research
Organization: HAC - Johns Hopkins University, Baltimore
Distribution: rec,sci
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 05:08:18 GMT

	I am interested in doing some research in the behaviors of fish.  If
anyone has any experience, please mail me and tell me what topics you worked
on.  Thanx.

						- unclesam@jhunix.hcf.jhu.edu
						  [410]516-5751

-- 
==============================================================================
Speds 'R Us, "If you can't be first, you can be second."
We live for cheap porno music "piewch pee piewch tsch tsch"
                                -The Johns Hopkins Varsity Cross-Country 1992.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria