HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: Break-in period 
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 92 07:02:14 GMT

Mark Wayne Blunier (mwbg9715@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu) wrote:
: dan@larry.sal.wisc.edu (Dan Roehre) writes:
: 
: No it is not.  When the eninge is rebuilt a can of 'special oil' is needed.
: This helps the engine break in properly.  A new engine has it added.
: The warrany that GM gives with its Goodwrench engines is voided if you
: don't add the special oil.  My experience with breaking in engines seems
: to be that the original oil should be used to at least what is recomended
: by the manufacturers (of a new engine).  Use regular oil for breakin, but
: can use synthetic afterwords if desired.  Engines that do not have the 
: break in oil in long enought do no get the rings to seat as well.
: Mark B.

I thought there was no such thing as "special oil for breakin".  As I
understand it, it just regular oil, but you have all your metal shards
and assembly goop floating around in it.  What I've done when rebuilding
engines is to buy the cheapest junk oil I can & run the engine with that
for about 5 miles, then change the oil (& filter) to decent (Castrol)
with a real filter, and run that for a couple of hundred, then I switch
to Mobil 1 at about 1500 miles.

The first oil takes out the major junk, the second change takes out most
of the rest, and from then on it's just normal break-in.  Be gentle for
at LEAST 1000 miles, preferably 2000.  (not easy if you just spent
big bucks on performance parts, you wanna TRY IT!)

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
Don't blame me; I voted for Perot!                hinzd@picard.med.ge.com 
SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.             Pherrets are Phun!!!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hsd@swl.msd.ray.com (HERBERT DASILVA)
Subject: Re: Paint problems on '90 Nissan Stanza
Organization: Raytheon Company, Tewksbury, MA
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 18:15:21 GMT

rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com (Bob Rusk) writes:

>I have a '90 Stanza (made/assembled in USA, purchased new 2 years ago) that
>has 'soft' paint.  It is as if the paint had never cured properly.  For
>example, the pressure applied by the return string on a gas pump hose was
>enough to cause the smooth surface of the nozzle handle to remove a chunk
>of paint.  This same phenomenon has resulted in numerous stone chips in
>front (more than any car I've ever owned) and chips on the door edges.

  This was the exact problem I had with my '88 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe.
  The paint was so soft that bugs got EMBEDDED in the paint in the front of
  the car, and I had to use rubbing compound to smooth the paint and remove
  them!! 

>For the most part, these chips are on galvanized sheet metal, so there
>is almost no rust associated with them (yet!).  However, I am not sure
>about how to go about repairing the existing nicks and preventing new ones.
>I am fairly handy (a former boat mechanic), but have almost no experience
>with body work.

>Any suggestions/ideas are more than welcome.

> Bob Rusk

  If the car has not been clearcoated, you could have a clear coat applied
  at your local trusty body shop.  There are some pretty good ones out
  there.

	Herb "Mopar Maniac" DaSilva
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mks@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (manishkumar.sharma)
Subject: PFI indicator light comes on on 1987 Accord LXi
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 19:50:58 GMT
Keywords: PFI Fuel Injection Honda Accord

As the Subject says, the PFI light comes on within about 2 miles. This
then stays until the ignition is turned off. After driving about 2 miles,
the indicator lights up again although there is no noticeable change in
performance. I changed brands of gasoline, went from regular to super and
added a fuel-injector cleaner into the gas tank; no difference.
Is there any thing else I can do or should I take it to a mechanic and
watch him replace half the injection system ($$$) :-(
Thanks.

-Manish Sharma
...att!trumpet!mks
From: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Clutch Adjustment on 1988
Date: 6 Nov 92 19:44:00 GMT
Reply-To: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel)
Organization: Ye Olde Bailey BBS - Houston, TX - 713-520-1569

TCB!@#I own a 1988 chev nova with 55K miles on it.  It has the standard
5 speed !@#manual transmission.  I was asked by a co-worker of mine if I
ever had th !@#clutch adjusted in the car which got me to thinking.  I
called 5 chev !@#dealers and asked the service department if the clutch
in this car needed !@#adjusting - 3 said yes, 2 said no.  The service
schedule for the car does !@#not mention adjusting the clutch.  What say
the wise men of the net?

You tell us....how does the clutch feel and how far does the pedal
travel before it disengages?
If it feels good and doesn't slip and the pedal height is 1/2 to 1" then
it sounds good to me..


                                                        Don


 * SLMR 2.1a * I'm too poor to have a TAG!
            
----
Ye Olde Bailey BBS
Houston,Texas
Node 1: 1 713 520 1569
yob@sccsi.com
From: donrm@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Don Montgomery)
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 20:38:13 GMT
Subject: Re: 240Z-280Z Problems
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Rosa, CA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

In rec.autos.tech, tavernin@rm1.interlan.com (Victor Tavernini) writes:

>     I'm thinking of buying a 240Z, 260Z, or 280Z and was wondering if any
>     specific model/year had any serious problems ... besides rust :-)

Look for a '75 or '76 280Z.  Last of the best.  Anything later is a 
compromise.

'74 260Z cars had more problems than you'd ever want to deal with.

Trying to find a 240Z in good condition may be hard.

My opinion...

Don Montgomery
donrm@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com
From: randyd@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Randall Elton Ding)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: 68 impala partial restored for sale
Date: 13 Nov 92 00:01:32 GMT
Distribution: wi
Organization: Computing Services Division, University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
NNTP-Posting-Host: 129.89.7.4
Originator: randyd@csd4.csd.uwm.edu

Hi
  I have a 68 Impala 2 door that is partially restored.
  I need to sell it because I no longer have the time to finish it.
  Right now it is all stripped to bare metal, doors, fenders and windows are
  removed and stripped, engine compartment and radiator support is all
  painted and finished.  I have all new trim parts, rubber, crome, including
  new ralley wheels and hubcaps with BFG 70's.

  The engine is a rebuilt 350 with a turbo 350 trans.  Holley 1850 carb
  (which is a 600 CFM) on an Edelbrock performer intake.  Engine is
  all installed and drivable.  The air conditioning is completely rebuilt.
  Front suspension is completely rebuilt, including new shocks and springs
  both front and rear.

  Dash pad and interior are perfect, except need to repair front seat rip.

  This car is from California and has minimal rust.  There are some holes
  in the window channel in the back, however it is repairable.  Since the
  car is completely stripped and all rust has been sand blasted, you can
  see everything that is wrong with it.

  I think the car is worth a lot more, but I'm only asking for $2500 obo.
  If you thing you are interisted, please Email me or call me at
  (414) 762-3383, I live in South Milwaukee, Wi.

  Thanks,   Randy
From: paul@sdd.hp.com (Paul K Johnson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 240Z-280Z Problems
Date: 12 Nov 1992 15:10:19 -0800
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Corporate Engineering
NNTP-Posting-Host: hp-sdd.sdd.hp.com

In article <403@rd1.interlan.com> tavernin@rm1.interlan.com (Victor Tavernini) writes:
>I'm thinking of buying a 240Z, 260Z, or 280Z and was wondering if any

The quickest were the '73, '77, and '78.  If you prefer NSU carbs over
fuel injection, I would go with the 240.  If you're handy with a
voltmeter, get a '77 or '78.  You can debug the whole system from one
connector.

paul
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: vaheg@woods.ulowell.edu
Subject: 1985 ford Escort with Blown engine
Organization: University of Lowell
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 05:53:41 GMT

I have a 1985 ford escort with a blown engine.  I just got done making
payments on it and I want to unload it.

	It is in tip-top shape with air cond.(except engine, of course!!)
It is red with light tan interior.

	Want around 250 bucks for the car or B.O.
Email me direct if interested!
From: shadow@pro-haven.cts.com (Blaine Hufnagle)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: RFI:Putting Balls in your gas
Date: 7 Nov 1992 03:49:38 -0600
Organization: ProLine [pro-haven] - Pariahs' Haven BBS, 409/693-8262, 9600-300
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu

In <1d9i5pINNjtf@bigboote.WPI.EDU>
damong@planet10.WPI.EDU (Damon Francis Gentile) writes:

% In article <1992Nov3.134855.1@sscvx1.ssc.gov> schludermann@sscvx1.ssc.gov writes:
% >
% >  Does anyone know the mixing ratio of mothballs (naphthalene) per unit of
% >gasoline? Too much balls and bye-bye pistons.
% >
% >Kris
% 
% I've never heard of this. What is the reason for the addition ?  What 
% are the outcomes ?

Napthalene dissolves to form Naptha in the gas tank.  For instance, Chevron's
Techron (Techroline) additive is about 90% naptha.

(I think this correct.  the napthalene moth balls may simply dissolve to form
liquid napthalene.)

Moth Balls are simply cheaper.

However, if you decide to do this, MAKE SURE YOU GET NAPTHALENE MOTH BALLS!!

There are about 4 brands of non-napthalene moth balls for every brand of
napthalene moth balls.  You've got to look carefully...

-blaine

          a.k.a. The Midnight Shadow    |  1979 Chevy Urban Assault Vehicle
Texas Aggie Bus Driver and proud of it! |  1982 Thomas Transit Liner bus
Another Bodybuilder from HELL!!         |  1982 Yamaha Vision   DoD #7192
        "Mine is not to wonder why, Mine is but to look and cry....."

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: A.J.Robinson@lut.ac.uk (Alan Robinson) 
Subject: Granada Auto Box
Reply-To: A.J.Robinson@lut.ac.uk (Alan Robinson)
Organization: Loughborough University, UK.
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 92 10:14:39 GMT



Somebody somewhere MUST know the shift points for a 1986 UK spec
Ford Granada 2.8i Auto.

If that person is you, please let me know.

Also, anyone with such a car (or v.similar) is welcome to email me
for a chat.

Mine is about to run out of warranty and I think I have some problems
with the transmission so I'd like to check.


Cheers,

Alan.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jr179629@longs.LANCE.ColoState.Edu (Jason Rogers)
Subject: '89 Sundance
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 07:29:01 GMT
Organization: Colorado State U. Engineering College
Keywords: Cold Stumbling
Followup-To: jr179629@longs.LANCE.ColoState.Edu

This is a problem that started about a year ago.  Background info: '89 Sundance
RS with 2.5 EFI engine, 5-speed, ~65,000 miles.

During the first two minutes of driving after a cold-start, the car seems to
cut-out, balk, and stumble under moderate acceleration and engine speed.  The
range of engine speed that this phenomenon occurs is 2500-3000 rpm.  After about
two minutes of operation, the problem seems to go away and the car drives fine.
I mentioned this to a dealer mechanic, who speculated my fuel injector might be
dirty.  I tried a bottle of fuel-injector cleaner with a fresh tank of gasoline.
No luck.
	Given the two-minute "window," I wonder if the problem is related to
open-loop operation.  Another idea lies in a faulty EGR valve or EGR control
component (such as a cold-coolant override).  The EGR system is designed to
engage at engine speeds above 2500 rpm and at part-throttle.
I tried flooring the accelerator (which would disengage EGR)
once when the car started bucking, and it accelerated as expected - smooth and
somewhat eager.
	I had the car tuned at a local "tune shop" last year.  Part of the 
procedure was to check the operation of the emissions components.  To check
an EGR valve, they directed a small amount of propane to the top of the diaphragm,
and monitored the tailpipe emissions.  Given the design of the EGR valve, the
emissions showed a "rich" reading.  Their claim was that these emissions
numbers increased "...more than they should for an EGR valve in proper operating
condition."  I pointed out the invalidity of their test because the EGR valve
is designed to "leak," as stated by a Chrysler engineer friend.
	Whatever the case may be, the problem still exists.  Throughout the warm
weather months, the idiosynchracy never occurred.

I would appreciate further input on what the problem may be; I'm becoming rather
annoyed with it.  Please send your suggestions directly to my E-mail address.
Thanks!

Jason
From: cyf@sequent.com (Cyrus Foughty)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: '83 Volvo diesel. HEEEEELLLLLLLPPPPPP......
Date: 10 Nov 92 17:56:03 GMT
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems, Inc.

My first mistake was buying this thing.  It was cold that morning and
the whole world was frozen in motion....including my Swedish Brick!  I
thought maybe the diesel engine was going to be reliable, tiny did I
know.  You can't check your sparkplugs on a diesel, you can't check
your whatever on a diesel.  I understand the basic principal of a
diesel engine, however troubleshooting it is a nightmare.

Symptoms:  Turn key on wait for glowplug light to go out and then try
to start engine.  It cranks at the normal speed but no ignition.  I
checked the power strip to all of the glow plugs and the test light is
alive.  I did not check each individual plug as it is a major pain and
I checked them a few months ago.  Still even with a few bad glow plugs
the engine should start.  When I am cranking the engine it doesn't
even try to start.  Yes, it has fuel in the tank.  I don't know how to
proceed troubleshooting this any further. What should I do next?

Help me, I've fallen and I'm still a Republican!

Cy
cyf@sequent.com
MaBell: 214.661.1900
Sequent Computer Systems, Inc.
-- 
Cy Foughty 
Sequent Computer Systems, Dallas, TX
cyf@sequent.com
Standard disclosure: This is my opinion and not Sequent's.
From: vincent@garnet.berkeley.edu (Vincent J. Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Insurance and Getting money
Date: 5 Nov 1992 21:36:34 GMT
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: garnet.berkeley.edu

The other night I got hit in my new Integra. The guy must 
have hit me at 40 mph. First, I didn't get a police officer
because it was so busy during rush hour. Am I going to have any
problems recovering the money? Anybody with experience let
me know?
Thanks.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Hydraulic Valve Adjuster, What Are?
From: Karl Nordstrom <KXN2@psuvm.psu.edu>
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 10:02:40 EST
Organization: Penn State University

mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu (Michael T. Chaffee) says:
>
>Karl Nordstrom <KXN2@psuvm.psu.edu> writes:
>>
>>What are hydraulic valve adjuster in a DOHC engine?
>
>In any engine that has them, the hydraulic adjusters reside at some point in
>the linkage between cam and valve.  The adjusters are basically little
>cylinders containing little pistons that are expanded by engine oil pressure.
>As the valve train and valve seats wear, the adjusters expand or contract
>to compensate for this wear and keep the valve clearances at the proper level.
>
>Advantages:     Zero Maintenance
>                Silence
>
>Disadvantage:   Silence

What makes them silent?  Whats wrong with silence?  Perhaps you were referring
to the sound of a high revving DOHC engine?

Do hydraulic valve adjusters provide any other function?  I have heard of
hydraulic lifters in OHV engines that allow the engine to use a hotter cam
but still maintain decent low rpm drive-ability.

Are hydraulic valve adjusters the same as hydraulic lash adjuster?

Lastly, what alternatives are there to hydraulic valve adjusters?
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: brownr@hydra.rtp.dg.com (Randy Brown)
Subject: Re: Announcing Performance Engineering Magazine
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 92 21:05:41 GMT
Organization: DG-RTP Graphics Group

In article perform@dixie.com (Performance Engineering Magazine) writes:
|> 
|> Introducing 
|> 
|> _Performance Engineering_ Magazine
|> 
|> John De Armond, Publisher.

Go, John, Go!  Good luck!

Good grief, if we aren't supporting this type of activity what do we support?

Randy

p.s. an introductory copy would be appreciated.
From: andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Hydraulic Valve Adjuster, What Are?
Date: 10 Nov 92 19:21:50 GMT
Organization: Brandeis University

>BTW, I don't really understand the desmodromic system.  Anyone
>care to explain?

I think they're camshafts and valves built like crankshafts and
pistons.  Quite complicated to build, nearly impossible to adjust for
valve clearance but they never encounter valve "float" at sane RPMs.

Or I could be entirely wrong.

-andy
From: frank@marvin.contex.com (Frank Perdicaro)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Electronic ignition?
Date: 12 Nov 92 13:59:03 GMT
Organization: Xyvision Design Systems

In article <2163.88.uupcb@chaos.lrk.ar.us> dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) writes:
>
>-> I am seriously thinking about buying an older Spitfire. Now, after
>-> all the laughter has subsided, I have a few questions.
>
> I always thought that Michelotti body was gorgeous, myself.  Until you
>lifted the fancy tilt front cap and found the thing was powered by
>hamsters.
>
>
>-> I have been advised to replface the stock ignition system with an
>
>...
>got it, and it was like Frost's One-Hoss Shay - everything was falling
>apart at once.

I think that it was not Frost ( Robert Frost ) that wrote One-Hoss
Shay.  I think it pre-dated him.  As odd as it may seem I have seen 
this poem cited in various texts as expressing a theory of integrated,
balanced design.  Anybody got the real reference?  Yeah, I have it at
home someplace...


-- 
	 Frank E Perdicaro, Systems Admin, etc.		Xyvision Color Systems
      Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.		101 Edgewater Drive
   inhouse: frank@marvin, x5572				Wakefield MA
outhouse: frank@contex.com, 617-245-4100x5572		018801285
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: new required dyno emissions tests / Re: New Gasoline Ripoff
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 11 Nov 92 16:05:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> Anyone who drives a internal combustion powered vehicle contributes
-> to the world emmisions.  I am tired of all of this old car bashing as

 The largest single polluter in the world is the US Air Force.
Collectively, various manufacturing plants and power generation make the
USAF look like small potatoes.  Automobiles are actually rather far down
on the list.  The "zero emission auto" furor is mainly political.
Practically everyone is dependent on cars, so it brings the issues home
to the electorate, which usually gets screwed anyway.

 There's also the raw fact that the majority of the world doesn't give a
rat's ass about pollution, and if the US miraculously stopped putting
out even a gram of pollution, it wouldn't make that much difference to
the world at large.
                                         
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:15329 rec.autos:26528
From: fazio@smoke.brl.mil (Peter Fazio)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
Subject: Dodge trans. prob...strange ?
Keywords: Dodge, trans., lockup torq conv., stalling
Date: 12 Nov 92 12:18:00 GMT
Followup-To: poster
Organization: U.S. Army Ballistic Research Lab (BRL), APG, MD.


   Hi all,

  I've encountered sort of a weird prob. w/ my 1980 Dodge van B-100,
225 ci slant 6cyl, automatic w/ lockup torque conv.( not sure which
trans. it is, maybe A-904, 727, loadflight ? ) .
  The problem is as follows :  I have a stalling problem which is
encountered only in reverse gear when the engine/trans is up to
operating temp.  In neutral, when warm, it idles perfectly ( ~750 rpm ),
but put it in reverse and it abruptly stalls ( feels as if you were in a
vehicle w/ manual trans. and you released the clutch w/ the brake on ).
Further, when the engine/trans. is hot ( ie. highway driving for
greater than 20 mins ) this phenomenon starts to occur in drive as well.
I would come to a stop, while in drive, and the engine would slowly stall
out ( not as abruptly as in reverse ), I repeat, the stalling in drive
only occurs when the engine/trans. is thoroughly hot.  It does not
stall in drive while just cruising around town w/ light loading.  Also,
when the engine/trans. is cold I have no problem w/ stalling in either
drive or reverse.
  Well, I've checked out the obvious things relating to engine tune
and find everything up to spec.  What I have read though may pertain
to the problem.  Some repair books call out the lockup torque converter
as being at fault.  Possible that the torq. conv. is trying to lock
while in reverse?  I don't understand the control flow for the
lockup torq conv., maybe a fluid temp prob ?
  Any help would be appreciated concerning theories, fixes, this also happens
to me, etc.

  Note to Walt K. :  From reading the news I've gotten the impression
                     that you are a Dodge/Chrysler expert.  If you
                     have any thoughts on this prob. I would apprec-
                     iate a note, if you have the time.  My e-mail
                     address is fazio@brl.mil  .



                                 thanks to all,

                                       Pete Fazio
From: eli@cisco.com (Steve Elias)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: new required dyno emissions tests / Re: New Gasoline Ripoff
Date: 6 Nov 92 12:30:38
Organization: cisco Routers-R-us Systems, CA, USA
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: regal.cisco.com
In-reply-to: ravalent@mothra.syr.EDU's message of Tue, 3 Nov 92 12:19:46 EST

ravalent@mothra.syr.EDU (Bob Valentine) writes:

Bob, one of the reasons the EPA is forcing us to burn this new fuel in
order reduce pollution, is because of people like you who sleaze past
the emissions test.  hopefully, the new required dynamometer tests will
be able to catch you next time you try sleazing out of getting your
motor tuned properly!

/eli


   From: ravalent@mothra.syr.EDU (Bob Valentine)
     What I'm really trying to say is that it's a load of BS to
   be charging more for a new form of gasoline that costs less 
   to produce than its previous form, and then to basically 
   act like they have some wonderful new formula fuel that will
   reduce emissions.  Come on folks, I've used a mixture of 
   50/50 isopropyl alcohol/gas to fool emissions tests.
   Nothing new here.......

   -->Bob
    ----->ravalent@mailbox.syr.edu



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jdouglas@MITRE.org (Jason Douglas)
Subject: Re: cleaning/painting steel wheels
Organization: The MITRE Corporation
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 20:51:14 GMT

In article <1dmbbbINNj50@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> jxs18@po.CWRU.Edu (Jerry Sy) 
writes:
> I bought a set of used steel wheels for mounting snow tires.
> I want to get suggestions from the net as to how I can
> clean and paint the wheels.
> 
> will wire brushing it then spraying a can of steel wheels color
> spray paint be sufficient ?

It depends on the condition of the wheels.   I would recommend trying very 
hard to get as much rust off as possible *before* the new tires are 
mounted and the wheels become harder to work with.  

A couple of years back I got steel wheels with some "light" rust for the 
same purpose.   I cleaned 'em with soap, water, and a stiff brush.  Then, 
I used naval jelly to *try* to stop the rust, then spray painted em with a 
rust inhibiting primer, then with a metalic siver paint intended for steel 
wheels.  Needless to say they're in *much* better shape than originally, 
but even this much work won't make them look pretty.  You will, however, 
definitely get good service out of em and save $$.  Just wear rubber 
gloves if you use naval jelly.


Jason