HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: hes@unity.ncsu.edu (Henry E. Schaffer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: information on watch making
Date: 31 Dec 92 02:06:43 GMT
Organization: North Carolina State University


  There are a lot of good book about Horology, but most of them
are a bit old.  Donald De Carle has written a number of books
in this area, including one "Horology" which was published in
England and imported to the US by Dover (which called itself
the USA Publisher.)  It has a copyright date of 1965.  Most
watch/clock supply places sell such books.  A company I've
dealt with is

S. LaRose, Inc.
234 Commerce Place, P.O. Box 21208
Greensboro, NC 27420
919 275 0462

The sell all sorts of watch/clock movements, repair parts,
supplies, tools and equipment and ship promptly.

--henry schaffer
From: kludge@grissom.larc.nasa.gov (Scott Dorsey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to tin-coat a Copper or Brass pan
Date: 31 Dec 1992 14:39:01 GMT
Organization: NASA Langley Research Center and Reptile Farm
NNTP-Posting-Host: grissom.larc.nasa.gov
Keywords: tin, copper, brass, pan

In article <C03Gps.M2r@world.std.com> moroney@world.std.com (Michael Moroney) writes:
>There is a chemical available at electronics stores intended to plate copper
>printed circuit boards with tin.  Should work with a pan.

This puts on only a fairly light coating, which is fine if all you want is
corrosion protection on something that isn't going to be handled much.  For
pots and pans, you want a much thicker coating.
--scott
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: cbl@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu (Chris Luchini)
Subject: Cheap source for Air hardening tool steel
Reply-To: cbl@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu
Organization: High Energy Physics, University of Illinois, Urbana-Champaign
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 23:17:06 GMT

I need a source for 7/8" air hardening tool steel.
The best price I've found is about $60/3' lengths,
which is _way_ too expensive.

Any suggestions?

*1110 W. Green/Urbana IL 61801/217-333-0505/cbl@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu 
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: pollack@dendrite.cis.ohio-state.edu (Jordan B Pollack)
Subject: Re: Question about this Newsgroup
Originator: pollack@dendrite.cis.ohio-state.edu
Reply-To: pollack@cis.ohio-state.edu
Organization: Ohio State Computer Science
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 21:49:18 GMT

rec.crafts.metalworking is less than one month old. A group called
trial.rec.metalworking has been around for a couple of years, with
very little traffic, obviously due to its strange name.  It took
several months to get the new name, as there was no name change
mechanism, only the formal stages of discussion and voting for a new
group, with mandatory waiting periods.

Our preference was for rec.metalworking, to be sister to
rec.woodworking, and one cantankerous machinist was so incensed at
having to accept "craft" in the middle, that he almost blew the whole
thing by flaming away at the internet oligarchs in news.groups.

Thanks go to Jim Kirk for handling the details.

-- 
Jordan Pollack                            Assistant Professor
CIS Dept/OSU                              Laboratory for AI Research
2036 Neil Ave                             Email: pollack@cis.ohio-state.edu
Columbus, OH 43210                        Phone: (614)292-4890 (then * to fax)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: cav@bnr.ca (Rick Cavasin)
Subject: Re: Oriental Gong from Sheet Steel
Reply-To: cav@bnr.ca (Rick Cavasin)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 92 13:55:46 GMT

Uh sorry, in that previous post under Quick and Dirty Dishing it
should read 'get an old 1lb ball pean hammer and *grind* the edges....'

Cheers,Rick C.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc
From: jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond)
Subject: Re: Stained Glass
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 92 04:49:41 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.

dsoconne@quads.uchicago.edu (Daniel S OConnell) writes:

>I'm wondering if anyone knows where I can get a book (or periodical
>for that matter) on making stained glass.

My wife is a glass artist and I piddle with hot glass so maybe I can
help.  Stained glass books are normally found on the shelves of
stained glass shops.  Look in the Yellow Pages.  

The major magazines in the business are:

Glass Art
PO Box 1507
Broomfield, CO 80038  
(no phone listed)

Professional Stained Glass 
PO Box 69
Brewster, NY 10509 
914 279 7399

Glass Patterns Quarterly
PO Box 131 
Westport, KY  40077
502 222 5631

There are two glass art guilds, each at the other's throat.  Glass Art
and Professional Stained Glass represent one each.  Lots of time is spent
calling the other one names.  Still good mags, though PSG seems
to have been wounded by the battles of late.  Glass Patterns has (IMWHO)
the best patterns of any pub.

I suggest, no, strongly suggest you call around your local stained glass
stores and find out which of them conduct lessons and sign up.  You will
save yourself months of work trying to learn all the tricks.  Beware
of the classes that try to force you to buy a whole toolkit up front.
Much of what you buy you'll never use.  About all you really need to 
get started is a good glass cutter, a pair of grousing pliars, a came
cutter, a came stretcher and a good soldering iron.  Buy the rest
as you need it.

Any specific questions we'll try to answer.

John
-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC               |Interested in high performance mobility?  
Performance Engineering Magazine(TM) | Interested in high tech and computers? 
Marietta, Ga                         | Send ur snail-mail address to 
jgd@dixie.com                        | perform@dixie.com for a free sample mag
Need Usenet public Access in Atlanta?  Write Me for info on Dixie.com.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: hollasch@kpc.com (Steve Hollasch)
Subject: Re: Green copper
Organization: Kubota Pacific Computer, Inc.
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 22:38:53 GMT

Eric Kasten writes:
| Ok, here's a question for you folks.  Sometimes on copper metal	
| sculptures you'll find a finish which is sort of a rough green
| substance (maybe somesort of copper oxide?)  The question is:	
| just what is this finish, and just how is it created?  
| Thanks for any info!

    The finish is oxidized copper (copper rust).  Just take a piece of
copper, roughen up the surface, and either mist it or just let it sit
outside for a while (or inside for longer).

______________________________________________________________________________
Steve Hollasch                                   Kubota Pacific Computer, Inc.
hollasch@kpc.com                                 Santa Clara, California
From: hes@ncsu.edu (Henry E. Schaffer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: The Making of Tools - a Book Review
Date: 30 Dec 92 03:14:41 GMT
Organization: North Carolina State University
Originator: hes@sparcler.cc.ncsu.edu

The Making of Tools
Alexander G. Weygers
Prentice Hall Press 1973  ISBN 0-671-60924-6
8" x 11" 93 pages softbound
(orig. pub. by Van Nostrand Reinhold Co Inc.
Pub in 1986 by Prentic Hall Press.)

  This is a modern book about doing things the old way - it is
on how the artist/craftsperson can design, make, sharpen and temper
tools - with a minimum of supplies and equipment.  Some power tools
are used, but there also is a lot of hand labor included.  The text 
is interesting and the line drawings are plentiful and helpful.  It
would be an excellent book for a beginner, and it is not expensive.
I paid $12.95 some years ago when I bought it from Centaur Forge.

Table of Contents [my comments in brackets]

Introduction

A Beginer's Workshop
  Installation of Equipment
  Materials
  The Quenching Bath
  Wood for Handles

Tempering Steel
  [testing, tempering, drawing, case hardnening]

Making the First Tool: A Screw Driver

Making a Cold Chisel and Other Simple Tools
  [also a center punch, nail set, punches, drill bits]

Making Stonecarving Tools

Sharpening Tools
  [both sharpening and repair of damaged edges - I usually
  recommend Juranitch's The Razor Edge book for learning how
  to do an excellent job sharpening] 

Making Carpenter's Chisels

Making Cutting Tools
  [knife, garden tools, cleaver]

Making Eyebolts and Hooks

Making Tool Handles

Making Hammers

Making Sculptor's Woodcarving Gouges

Making a Seating Cutter and Hinge Joints
  [infrastructure for making tongs, pliers, snips/shears]

Making Tinsnips

Making Wire and Nail Cutters

Making Large Shears

Making Pliers

Applying Color Patina to Steel Surfaces

Hints on on Using Power Tools and Other Admonitions

Glossary

--henry schaffer
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: morganh@atlastele.com (Morgan Hall)
Subject: Re: Silver solder removing
Organization: Atlas Telecom Inc.
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 14:59:54 GMT

In article <BzMq8y.6Lr@cs.psu.edu> okunewck@psuvax1.cs.psu.edu (Phil OKunewick) writes:
>
>   Oh hey!  A new newsgroup!  Can I be the first poster?
>
>   Here's a little trick: To remove silver solder when you can't
>produce enough heat (or when heating the object too high will cause
>problems), add regular tin-lead or lead-free solder to the bond.  The
>tin-lead solder will alloy with the silver solder and the melting
>temperature of the entire mass will be much lower than that of silver
>solder alone.
>

A word of caution -- if the object you are soldering is silver, lead/tin
solders will dissolve the silver!  I've managed to destroy several pieces
of jewelry with a fragment of soft solder that mysteriously got onto a
surface that was supposed to be highly polished.  Cleanliness pays.

Does anyone know of a source for niobium?  I've heard that you can anodize
it in an alkaline solution and get some interesting surface colors.

Morgan Hall
morganh@atlastele.com  -- or
morganh@rigel.cs.pdx.edu
From: djt@merlin.caltech.edu (David Thompson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Green Patina on Copper
Date: 28 Dec 1992 15:09 PST
Organization: California Institute of Technology
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: merlin.caltech.edu
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    

Hi All,

	Interesting suggestions for turning copper green! In case you have 
trouble obtaining the necessary ingredients/chemicals, Constantine's (a 
woodworking supply company, mail-order) sells a solution to form the green
patina on copper, bronze, and brass. My catalog may be out of date, but 8 ozs
goes for $10.95 (probably plus shipping, etc.), 16 ozs for $18.95. Order 
numbers are PG8 and PG16, their phone number is 1-800-223-8087, 8am-6pm EST.

				- Dave.
From: jharres@doc.bmd.trw.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Magazines and books
Date: 24 Dec 92 10:43:54 MST

Are there any metal working (lathe and mill) magazines available?
I'm looking for something with tips and methods as well as interesting
small projects for the hobbyist.

Also, what are some good books on beginning lathe procedures?

Please email and I'll post a summary (next year 8-{)   )


Thanks
Jim           jharres@doc.bmd.trw.com
From: djt@merlin.caltech.edu (David Thompson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Sealing maple laminated table top
Date: 30 Dec 1992 18:15 PST
Organization: California Institute of Technology
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: merlin.caltech.edu
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    

try reading a bit in rec.woodworking, but if not:

	It is really difficult to seal wood completely from the effects of 
changes in humidity. Your best bet would be to seal the wood thoroughly with
some sort of oil (tung oil, linseed oil, Watco danish oil finish, etc). Follow
directions carefully, and apply several coats (until the wood will not absorb
any more oil) and let this stuff thoroughly dry (it polymerizes, and it can 
take 30 days or more from the final coat before the oil is fully polymerized).
You can sand between/during coats of oil if you like. After the oil is dry,
then you can varnish with a good marine spar varnish. Again, several coats is
best, sanding with 400-600 between coats. This is best done when the wood is 
dry to begin with (winter,summer - whenever it is drier).

	The main problem I can see with this is that the machine oil may 
dissolve the varnish. Make a test board finished in this manner and put some
machine oil on it. Let it sit for a few days and see what it does. 

	These are just suggestions, I don't recall ever having used this 
combination before (you might want to verify that the oil and varnish are 
compatible as well). When working with wood, you generally plan to account 
for expansion of the wood with changes in humidity. Oh, one other thing - 
ALL sides of the wood must be treated as above, or the moisture will have 
access to the wood.

					Good Luck - Dave.
From: dbp0@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (DENNIS B. PRICE)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Khuli Loach - temp & PH
Date: 30 Dec 92 17:48:22 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University


 I have a very small custom-made tank, small cartridge filter, makeshift
 external heater.... (see Macqurium posting).  So far I've had two Khuli
 Loaches belly-up.  They were both quite small and were put in weeks after the
 tank was set-up (I figured the Khuli loach was not so hardy as the three
 White Clouds I put in right away.. and that have done fine).

 Q. - any ideas on temperature requirements for Khuli Loach?  how about P.H.?
 I'm using an under-tank heater (designed for a terarium or lizard-tank),
 which IS NOT stuck to the bottom of the tank, but in a small metal tray that
 is a few inches below the tank.... it's just enought, when turned on at
 night, to keep things at about 72-75 degrees.  During the day, when the
 heat's cranked up in teh building (this is my place of employment), the room
 temp is about 70-75 so I leave the heater turned off.

 Thanks.
 Brad
From: cowan@cerianthus.pinetree.org (Darin Cowan)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: High nitrates [M][FILTRATION]
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 92 13:38:59 GMT
Organization: The Aquarium, Ottawa, Ontario

mark@trident.datasys.swri.edu (Mark D. Collier) writes:

> Are there any other ways to deal with high nitrates? I have
> read about denitrifying filters, but none of the local shops
> use them. Does anyone have experience with either a commercial
> or DIY denitrifying filter?
> 

You don't say what kind of filter you have, but I'll pass on the wisdom of
my dealer.  I just went through a high nitrate problem (80-100 ppm in my 
30 gallon).

First, change as much of the water as you can.  Changing 20% only reduces the
nitrate by 20%.  Change 99% if you can.

If you have a trickle filter, buy a big sponge and sit it in the bottom.  This
will foster the growth of de-nitrifying anaerobic bacteria.  The sponge
media for an Aquaclear 2000 is good.  Leave it in there basically forever.  It
should become encrusted with gunk and generally look yucky. 

If you have power filters like Aquaclears or Skilters, buy some denitrifying
chips and add them to the filter.  They last a LONG time and aren't super 
expensive.

It was suggested that I run my protein skimmer all the time as that also helps
reduce nitrates by bubbling out rotting organics.

My nitrate level has gone from over 100 ppm to below 20 and is still falling.


Darin Cowan - cowan@cerianthus.pinetree.org
From: chuck@micro.caltech.edu (Chuck Higgins)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: *** Question: infestation with tiny insects ***
Date: 3 Jan 93 16:59:18 GMT
Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena
NNTP-Posting-Host: merope.micro.caltech.edu

    I have just noticed that the wall of my 15g marine mini-reef tank (10lbs 
of live rock, one maroon clown, one yellow tang, and a cleaner shrimp) has a 
large number of tiny (pin-point size) white organisms on it.  I thought they 
were bubbles until I saw one of them crawling DOWN.  They seem to be fond of 
the common green algae which grows on the tank walls.

    Is this a problem?  There seem to be a lot of these organisms.  I
would appreciate any experience that you can offer.  Thanks in advance!

               Chuck 

Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:9789 sci.aquaria:1827
From: lydia@tarsal.dsg.ti.com (lydia middendorf )
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
Subject: ***HELP****D
Date: 1 Jan 1993 12:17:51 GMT
Organization: Texas Instruments, Austin, Tx.
Distribution: usa
Reply-To: middendorf@tsd.itg.ti.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: tarsal.dsg.ti.com


     **HELP! QUICK!! **


     My bronze cory cat looks like it is about to explode. Could she have
     gotten herself knocked up? (I don't know how to tell male from female).
     None of my other cats are in this "explode" condition...so I don't
     think it is sick.

     What do I do? Will she eat her young? Should I move her to her own tank
     before she has her things (eggs? fry?) or would this upset her? Should
     I move the fry (eggs?) to their own tank? Please hurry...I will not
     have access to any other information until Monday. (55 gal tank w/
     chilid, plecos, & other cats)

     Thanks ever so much!!!!
     Happy New Year!!!

--
Recycle yourself...be an organ donor  |  visualize whirrled peas....
		     Internet: lydia@tarsal.dsg.ti.com
From: slj1k@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Introducing electric yellows
Date: 30 Dec 92 11:22:16 MDT
Organization: Utah State University

I'm thinking of adding an average size (3-4 inch) "electric yellow" cichlid
to a 30 gal. community tank consisting of one very uptight orange/red zebra, 
a pair of textilus (tanganyikan, I believe), one clown loach, and a pictus 
cat.  The cichlids are no larger than four and a half inches.  My question is 
would the yellow be okay in this environment, or would he get his little clock
cleaned?  Thanks way in advance.

|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Mark L. Reece    | ``Taco flavored Doritos and my orange life vest, Dad caught
SLJ1K@CC.USU.EDU | a hundred pound sturgeon on twenty pound test. When we got
je t'aime, jen   | him in the boat he measured six feet long, well I was so
                 | damned impressed I had to write this song, Fish On!''
                 |                                  - Les Claypool
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
From: pjs@gvgdsd.GVG.TEK.COM (Peter J. Stonard)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Feeding Tri-Color Sharks
Date: 26 Dec 92 01:18:49 GMT
Organization: Grass Valley Group, Grass Valley, CA
NNTP-Posting-Host: gvgdsd.gvg.tek.com

In article <1992Dec22.125950.10611@shearson.com> stu@mbsdev24.shearson.com (Stuart Bernstein) writes:
>
>  I recently bought two tri-color sharks from the local
>  aquarium,  They are in a 55 gallon tank with a variety
>  of fish (2 Dwarf Gouramis, 2 Rasp.Barbs, 5 Cardinal Tetras, 3 Zebra danios)

'Tri-color sharks' must be a local common name as I always have trouble
finding it in the aquarium atlas! Are they torpedeo shaped with a high
dorsal fin, and a pair of barbels above the mouth? If so they are
'Labeo' or of the Epalzeorhynchus species. They are common with all
black, red tail only, or all fins are red. I've seen some albino breeder
varieties as well.

>  They seem to be VERY shy.  They hide under a cave in the corner of the tank.
>  When it comes to feeding, all the fish come to the top except the Tri-Color
>  sharks.  

Well, I've seen the same behaviour, but I've also seen them become very
aggressive and terrorize a community tank. Don't be surprised if yours
adjust to their new tank and then try to rule over it! They will stake
out a territory, keep all other fish away. They like to have a cave or
other hiding spot, which you have.

>  I went out and bought sinking pellets for middle and bottom feeders.  
>  Last night after dropping the pellets,  the Sharks still stayed under the cave.
>  The other fish wound up eating the pellets.
>
>  Any suggestions for getting these guys to eat.  Its been about 4 days since
>  I purchased them now !

They'll eat when hungry. It may take a day or two more. Look carefully for
a velvet fungus on them as I've lost a couple that way. They like brine
shrimp (fresh or frozen), and will also eat veggies such as cuccumber.
The mouth is under the nose so they are interesting to watch, and make
good scavengers.

++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++
Peter J. Stonard        +                                /^\  /^\
Grass Valley Group      +                       /^\     /   \/
Grass Valley, CA. 95945 +                     /     \ /    /  
pjs@gvgspd.gvg.tek.com  +     Fish keeper in the Sierra Foothills
++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++
If it looks like; sounds like; quacks like; an Opinion. It's mine.
From: cowan@cerianthus.pinetree.org (Darin Cowan)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Blue-green 'algae' are DEAD!
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 92 13:47:22 GMT
Organization: The Aquarium, Ottawa, Ontario

wmack@en.ecn.purdue.edu (William J Mack) writes:

> > Don't believe me.  Dose an established, populated salt water tank
> > with Maracyn as the instructions recommend and you will probably
> > find a tank full of dead fish on the third day with amonia and or
> > nitrite off the scale.  I have advised three people recently that
> > have ignored my warnings against doing this.  *ALL* of the fish
> > died.  "But the package said it was okay!", they cried.
> > 
> > Jan Isley   jan@bagend.uucp   gatech.edu!bagend!jan   (404)434-1335

I have hit my established, populated marine tank with a full dose regimen of
Maracyn TWICE in the last year without problem and with complete success.

I have also tried Maracyn-2 and Maracide with success.

I have also stopped buying fish from the place that caused me to have to use
the Mara* drugs on them every time I bought a fish.



Darin Cowan - cowan@cerianthus.pinetree.org 

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: kncarp@nicsn1.monsanto.com (Kevin N. Carpenter)
Subject: Tiger Cowrie
Organization: Monsanto Company
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL3
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1992 03:43:27 GMT

On a whim, I recently purchased a Tiger Cowrie (a large snail like
creature with a pretty shell).  I'm starting to get concerned however,
it spends the bulk of its time nestled up next to either my Carpet
or Ritteri anemone.  The Carpet looks positively awful, the Ritteri
has looked better.  Both anemones left their normal perch right below
the MH within a couple of days of the introduction of the Cowrie.
Today I placed the Ritteri back up there (I didn't like where it decided
to stay).  Tonight, I noticed the Cowrie right back up along side it.

Do Tiger Cowries eat anemones?

--
Kevin Carpenter       Internet:  kncarp@nicsn1.monsanto.com
Monsanto Company      Fidonet:   1:100/215.0 (home)
St. Louis, Missouri, U.S.A.
Opinions expressed are those of the author, not the company he works for. 
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria