HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Whole house water neutralizer
From: michael@sunbeam.ksc.nasa.gov (Michael D. Myjak x7-3286)
Date: 9 Nov 92 12:22:54
Organization: NASA, Kennedy Space Center, FL.
In-reply-to: sym@Virginia.EDU's message of Fri, 6 Nov 1992 22:17:21 GMTLines: 56

Steve> [...]
Steve> 	Does anyone have experience with the water neutralizer
Steve> tanks that can be added to the water inlet line?  Most
Steve> apparently use a calcium additive in crystal form or do the
Steve> neutralizing thru the injection of a solution directly into the
Steve> pluming.  Specifically, I'm looking for sources, cost,
Steve> methodology, satisfied customers, etc. and whatever can be
Steve> added that may be of use.

We have similar problem, only our acid problem is a touch worse then a
PH. of 5.8 as ours ranges from 3.7 in my irrigation well to close to
5.2 in my fourth well.  I sank several wells trying to get water with
a better PH all to no avail. Its no wonder that the Azaleas love to
grow down here... talk about sour soil!!!

Here's the sum knowledge of what I learned (and hopefully remember
correctly) when I went shopping for solutions to this problem last
summer. There are essentially two types of systems (expensive, and
stratospheric!^) injection systems and upflow systems. The injection
system you referred to will probably work for a PH of 5.8 but if I
remember correctly thats a reach for them as most manufacturers
recommend them down to a PH of 6.  Their usefulness drops
significantly after that as the scale is logarithmic.  The injection
systems IMHO fall into the stratospheric cost category.

I finally ended up with the upflow type of neutralizer. This is
essentially a converted iron neutralizer. Its called an up-flow acid
neutralizer because the water enters in the bottom and flows up
through a limestone bath. Mine was first filled with Magnesium oxide,
then calcium <something?> which is essentially finely ground limestone
chips. The magnesium is there because of the extremely low PH I am
dealing with.  The water flows up through a strainer/filter which
causes the water to percolate up through the neutralizing materials.
I'm told that if this didn't happen, then the stuff would turn to
cement (!) and would not function well. 

Anyway, as the particles dissolve, they increase the PH to 7.0 or
neutral.  Since my acid is so low, I have to use both chemicals, but
since yours isn't that bad, you might be able to get away with just
the calcium. I think the mangesium oxide is rather expensive anyway. I
don't know for sure because I haven't had to add any new stuff. Yet.

The other thing to consider is that this system will also had hardness
to the water... which you may want to remove with a water softener
down stream.

Thats my $.02 worth...

--
- Michael D. Myjak			
  Senior Technical Specialist, Systems Analyst
  McDonnell Douglas Space Systems Company
  Kennedy Space Center, Fl., 32815
  MYJAK@TITAN.KSC.NASA.GOV

Gravity. It's not just a good idea. Its the LAW!
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: rusty@nssdc.gsfc.nasa.gov (Kenneth Hall)
Subject: Re: Getting Ready to Sell House: How to Make it Most Appealing?
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA - Goddard Space Flight Center
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 13:38:00 GMT

In article <1992Nov11.153310.16613@cbfsb.cb.att.com>, sbrenner@cbnewsb.cb.att.com (scott.d.brenner) writes...
>My wife and I are getting ready to sell our house and move into 
>something larger.  Since this is our first house, we've never had
>to prepare a house for showing and sale.  I think I know some obvious
>things to do such as clean it well (both inside and out), spackle and
>paint, clean the carpet (either professionally or with one of those
>rental doohickeys), maybe add some plants, etc.
> 
>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>Scott D. Brenner
>AT&T Consumer Communications Services
>Basking Ridge, NJ
>sbrenner@attmail.com
>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Scott,

     I have not sold my first home yet, but I am a licensed realtor in 
Maryland.  The best suggestion that I can give you is to keep your 
vest time and money to a minimum.  As you said, patch an cracks and 
nail holes and touch up those areas.  Don't go to the extent of 
repainting a room unless it really needs it, or the room is painted in 
a color that is dark/unique to your taste.  If the carpets are really 
dirty them clean them, else only spot clean areas that are stained or 
in heavy traffic zones.  Look at each room and see if it appears 
"balanced", you don't want to have a room that is cluttered and looks 
cramped, the potential buyer will think it is to small.  Once your 
home is on the market for showing, try to keep the rooms open and 
appearing naturally well lit.  On other point that people don't often 
consider is clean out your closets.  You don't want to have cramped 
closets for the same reason as with the rooms, they will appear to be 
lacking in space.

     Final note for personal security, check each room in your home 
for anything of high value or is breakable, rearrange or remove these 
items for safety (I have never had a problem with damage or theft with 
any of the homes I have shown but accidents can happen).  Also, any 
perscription medications that would be of street value such as pain 
killers should not be kept in the obvious medicine chest, these could 
become easy target to anybody with a dark nature who gets out of the 
agents sight.  Remember, although an agent is in most areas working 
for you, that person could unknowingly be taken for a ride by thieves 
possing as customers.  This regretfully has been demonstrated several 
times in trade articles that I have seen.  

     Alot of what I have said is not intended to scare you but caution 
you not the waste you time or put yourself at risk.  Any good agent 
who is concerned for their clients would pretty much say the same.  I 
wish you the best in finding a new home.

R
From: lee@hsh.com (Lee Havemann)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: GFCI question
Date: 13 Nov 92 13:44:09 GMT
 <MICHAEL.92Nov11112444@sunbeam.ksc.nasa.gov> <MACRAKIS.92Nov12110854@lakatos.osf.org> <10885@wrgate.wr.tek.com>
Organization: HSH Associates

In article <10885@wrgate.wr.tek.com>, davidbu@loowit.wr.tek.com (David E. Buxton) writes:
> 
> My appologies to the net police if this has already been said.
> 
> While a GFCI will indeed protect outlets downstream, whether they be two
> prong or three prong, a GFCI will not convert a two prong wiring system
> into a three prong wiring system.  If you want to use three prong
> outlets, that third prong must ultimately conduct back to earth ground
> and do so independently of your white wire power return.  So, if you
> don't have that third wire wired in your series of outlets, you can't change
> your outlets to three prong outlets simply by adding a GFCI.  A GFCI
> will make them two prong outlets safe, but it won't make em three pronged.

A lot of older houses were wired with "armored BX", with the armor being the
ground. Unless there has been any rewiring done (somebody putting in romex and
not bonding the box with the ground wire), you should have a good earth
ground). If the outlets you want to replace are in a metal box, and you don't
replace the box, you might be able to bond the GFCI ground to the metal box. 
   
A quick check with an ohmmeter from neutral (white) to the box, or a voltmeter
from hot (black) to the box will tell you if you have a ground or not.

 This is assuming (of course :-) that you have the armored BX in your house,
and that local codes allow for you to do this.

-- 

 Lee Havemann, Sys_op       HSH Associates          (201) 838-3330 
 Internet: lee@hsh.com    Compuserve: 70410,3507    AOL: HSH Assoc
 "Any opinions expressed are not necessarily those of anyone else, 
  including myself."
From: davidbu@loowit.wr.tek.com (David E. Buxton)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: GFCI question
Date: 12 Nov 92 22:27:52 GMT
Article-I.D.: wrgate.10885


My appologies to the net police if this has already been said.

While a GFCI will indeed protect outlets downstream, whether they be two
prong or three prong, a GFCI will not convert a two prong wiring system
into a three prong wiring system.  If you want to use three prong
outlets, that third prong must ultimately conduct back to earth ground
and do so independently of your white wire power return.  So, if you
don't have that third wire wired in your series of outlets, you can't change
your outlets to three prong outlets simply by adding a GFCI.  A GFCI
will make them two prong outlets safe, but it won't make em three pronged.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: guppy@wixer.cactus.org (Jennifer Mery)
Subject: Re: R-values
Organization: Real/Time Communications
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 92 03:40:42 GMT

In article <1992Nov9.152233.26690@philabs.philips.com> mja@philabs.philips.com (Michael Amato) writes:

>Do you mean the vertical knee walls that fill in between the 8' ceiling
>joists and the cathedral ceiling? If they are exposed to attic space then
>insulate with normal wall insulation. The best is to use 5 1/2" R-21, but
>unless you have 2x6 construction this will be tricky. Then you would want to
>use 3 1/2" R13. For more R value put insulation board over it.
>If the walls are not accessible you will have to go with a blown-in product.

Well our vaulted ceiling is about 8 ' at the short end, and then 9' or
ten feet at the other end.  The top has insulation on it, but the
triangle shaped sides (perpendicular to the flat attic floor) dont have
any insulation. they are vertical, so I don't know how to make the
insulation sitck on them. 

Maybe I could nail up styprofoam panels cut to size? otherwise I don't
know how to keep it from falling down.

We did figure out some basics of weatehr stripping that I never found
explained anywhere, but it was under $2 od stripping wasted to learn
about it for a lifetime, so pretty cheap lesson. I guess there are too
many styles of windows to really give a map on how to glue it on. I
didnt even know what weather stripping looked like, and I found out why,
there wasn't any on the house!! sheesh!

jam
-- 
==============================================================================
Jennifer Mery |
Austin, Texas | guppy@wixer.cactus.org
==============================================================================
From: bruno@cupid.enet.dec.com (Greg Bruno)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: wagner airless sprayer
Date: 5 Nov 92 14:37:41 GMT
Article-I.D.: nntpd.1992Nov5.165028.10898
Distribution: usa
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation, Colorado Springs


In article <gmVPTB1w164w@carrera.wvus.org>, pete@carrera.wvus.org (Pete Gregory) writes...
> 
>getting the airless sprayer sounds intriguing to me.  i could paint the 
>room quickly and with a lot less hassle than rolling it, and for a lot
>less $$$ than hiring a painter.  the paint shop guy says there is
>"practically no overspray" with this sprayer (i'd still drop-cloth
>*everything* and use a cardboard spray shield, since i've already painted
>the walls).
> 
>anyone in net-land use a wagner (or other brand) airless sprayer?  can you
>convince me one way or the other on this?
> 
>Pete Gregory, at home

     I have the Wagner Power Painter with the backpack.  It worked very well
on my fences and garage this summer.  I expect it will work great on the
interior walls this winter.  Overspray is very minimal, but you will need the
shield in order to paint right up to a line.

     I have already received my money's worth from the Wagner.  All this, and
I had been urged not to buy it because it couldn't handle normal viscosity
paint (not true).

     I was confused when you said "airless".  There is a Wagner Airless
painter, but it costs considerably more than $150, and is not what I have.

                                  Greg Bruno


--------------------------------------------------------------------
bruno@cupid.enet.dec.com                  "What sorcery is this?"    
--------------------------------------------------------------------
From: neal@neal.CND.HP.COM (Neal Bauer)
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 19:46:16 GMT
Subject: Re: better mouse trap needed
Organization: HP Network and System Management Division
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house

> The windup trap (Catchall or something like that) works astoudingly well.

I've had considerable trouble with this trap.  I use it because it's a live
trap and all I want to do is move the mice, not kill them.  However, many 
times a mouse ends up caught between the "paddle" and the edge of the box,
dying unpleasantly slow.  

Neal
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: sherwood@adobe.com (Geoffrey Sherwood)
Subject: Re: Recomendation for an upright freezer
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 19:29:13 GMT

In article <BxK89n.M67@constellation.ecn.uoknor.edu> richman@reepicheep.gcn.uoknor.edu (Mike Richman) writes:
>We are looking for an extra freezer, an upright (non-chest) unit which
>had automatic defrost.  Any suggestions for which brands to consider,
>and which to avoid?  Features worth paying extra for?  Thanks.

Why would you want automatic defrost?  I realize defrosting is a pain in
the butt, especially in humid climes (I was raised in Miami...) but the
defrost cycle tends to be very hard on food.  We just bought a cheapie from
Montomery Wards (about $400, on sale, 19 or so cu ft).  It has worked quite
well so far (had it two months).  We love having a deep freeze -- there is
room for everything we ever wanted to stick in a freezer, and more.  We keep
it stocked with frozen prepared food (as well as meat, vegies, etc) so anytime
we are feeling bushed and don't want to go to the hassle of making dinner,
a quick trip from freezer to oven or microwave and we have food (or a reasonable
facsimile thereof).
	Geoff Sherwood
From: mja@philabs.philips.com (Michael Amato)
Subject: Re: Jacuzzi baths vs others?
Originator: mja@hercules
Reply-To: mja@philabs.philips.com (Michael Amato)
Organization: Philips Laboratories, Briarcliff, NY 10510
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 23:03:57 GMT


In article <1992Nov11.175955.22335@donner.SanDiego.NCR.COM>, davel@booboo.SanDiego.NCR.COM (David Lord) writes:
|> In article <sands-101192111506@90.10.20.76> sands@apple.com (Michael Sands) writes:
|> >We are remodeling and get an opportunity to add a jetted bath tub to our
|> >master bathroom.  Jacuzzi has a patent on their jets and charge a $800
|> >premium on their baths because the jets are better. 
|> >
|> >Is this true?  Are the jets really that much different?
|> 
|> I haven't used one, but the recesses for the jets look like they
|> would be a magnet for soap scum, gunk, and mildew. The also look
|> like they would be impossible to clean. Anyone know who's actually
|> used one?
|> 
|> Also I would be interested in knowing what the installation is likely
|> to run on one of these tubs. Do they require a separate electrical
|> circuit? I assume a GFCI is required. I'd also like to know how you
|> attach the drain when the house is on a slab.

Yes, separate GFCI is required. My inspector required separate ground to 
cold water pipe too (I did'nt check if this is required by code, most likely
is if this guy wanted it - I just did what he told me). Tub is usually built
into a platform, so raise it up a little and put a step up to it. 
-- 
+-----------------------------------------------------------------+
| Michael Amato  DoD#0639 | "If pro is the opposite of con,       |
| mja@philabs.philips.com | then what is Congress"? - Will Rogers |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------+
From: darrenl@natinst.com (Darren Lilie)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Questions on Cabinets from Home Depot,Bldrs Square, etc.
Date: 10 Nov 1992 09:12:27 -0600
Organization: National Instruments, Austin, TX
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: eagle.natinst.com

I'm going to be replacing the cabinets and countertop in my kitchen and was
thinking of going to Home Depot and Bldrs Square to give them measurements
of the kitchen so they can put it on their computer.  There is a couple of
things I wanted to know first before talking with them.

I've seen estimated prices for the different kitchens that they have set up,
the cheapest being around $1100. This sign also says does not include
countertop,sink, or appliances.  I'm assuming this doesnt include labor either.
Is that correct? Do these cabinets come disassembled?  If labor isn't included
how much do they charge(per hour or per linear foot)?

Also, I wanted a blue countertop and it looks like they dont carry that color
in their store so it would have to be ordered.  What is an approximate price
for this.(The countertop would be L shaped with each leg being about 10ft long).

I would appreciate any info anyone has so I can get an idea of how much it will
cost before sitting down with the salesperson.

Thanks,
Darren

P.S. Oh yeah, the countertop would be the laminated kind like they have in 
their store.

 
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: seg@cbncp1.ATT.COM (Scott Gordon)
Subject: Re: Getting Ready to Sell House: How to Make it Most Appealing?
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 11:40:25 GMT
	<1992Nov11.171921.10839@nntpd.lkg.dec.com> <2080@coyote.UUCP>

In article <2080@coyote.UUCP> drake@drake.almaden.ibm.com (Sam Drake) writes:

>>   Path: cbnews!att!cbnewsk!cbnewsj!att-out!pacbell.com!ames!agate!spool.mu.edu!uunet!ibmarc!drake.almaden.ibm.com!drake
>>   From: drake@drake.almaden.ibm.com (Sam Drake)
>>   Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
>>   Date: 12 Nov 92 08:08:03 GMT
>>   References: <1992Nov11.153310.16613@cbfsb.cb.att.com> <1992Nov11.171921.10839@nntpd.lkg.dec.com>
>>   Sender: news@ibmarc.UUCP
>>   Distribution: usa
>>   Organization: IBM Almaden Research Center
>>   Lines: 13
>>   Nntp-Posting-Host: drake.almaden.ibm.com

>>   In article <1992Nov11.171921.10839@nntpd.lkg.dec.com> bruno@cupid.enet.dec.com (Greg Bruno) writes:
>>   >>Any other comments on selling a house would be appreciated.
>>   >                                                                 Bake some
>>   >chocolate-chip cookies just before the buyer arrives (careful though, if they
>>   >burn, the effect will be worse than if you had done nothing).

>>   Every time our house was open, we made a loaf of bread in the automatic
>>   bread machine.  I'll put fresh-bread odors up against cookies any time.
>>   But we made sure that the kneading was complete BEFORE the open house
>>   started, so the agent didn't have to shout over the thing.

>>   Did no good; we sold to someone who didn't come to an open house.


An easy "trick" to getting the good smell is to place some vanilla on
a cotton swab and rub that on top of a light-bulb that will be turned
on.  (Gee - I wonder why I don't do that every day of the year instead
of just trying to sell a house :-).)  It really does work, and takes
almost no time.  (It's cheaper than a bread-maker, too!)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas S. Rand)
Subject: Re: GFCI question
Organization: Open Software Foundation
	<MICHAEL.92Nov11112444@sunbeam.ksc.nasa.gov><DRAND.92Nov11140818@spinner.osf.org>
	<MICHAEL.92Nov12081948@sunbeam.ksc.nasa.gov>
Date: 12 Nov 92 11:05:23

In article <MICHAEL.92Nov12081948@sunbeam.ksc.nasa.gov> michael@sunbeam.ksc.nasa.gov (Michael D. Myjak x7-3286) writes:

   Originally, I wrote:

	 Now, on to pick a nit: a GFCI in a circuit will protect *all* outlets
	 on that circuit. In other words, a GFCI can go anywhere in the circuit
	 and will provide protection to all devices in that circuit. Thats
	 because the GFI is sensing a current difference between the hot and
	 neutral...  which there shouldn't be unless current is being grounded
	 somewhere elsein the circuit. Typically, GFCI circuit breakers are set
	 to trip at .005 amps.

   Douglas S. Rand (drand@spinner.osf.org) then followed up with:

      This is not worded quite right.  The GFCI outlet will protect all the
      outlets which are downstream of it.  It will do nothing for earlier
      outlets.

   You are absolutely correct. I guess I got a little carried away with
   the delete command. <meta-K for you emacs weenies> It should read as
   "... and will provide protection to all devices [following] in that
   circuit." 

   I wish I could help more on this subject but I'm having a little
   trouble getting my foot out-a mouth...

And the net police are always quick to jump on the easy glaring
errors.  I'm glad I wasn't as mean as some I read.  Don't let a little
mistake stop you.

--
Douglas S. Rand <drand@osf.org>		OSF/Motif Dev.
Snail:         11 Cambridge Center,  Cambridge,  MA  02142
Disclaimer:    I don't know if OSF agrees with me... let's vote on it.
Amateur Radio: KC1KJ
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: yedinak@rtsg.mot.com (Mark A. Yedinak)
Subject: Re: FYI: This Old Pyramid
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 16:04:41 GMT

kfp@sibyl.SAIC.Com (Keith Pilotti 552-3900 SV CMCT) writes:

:"This Old Pyramid" is the title of the upcoming episode of Nova on PBS.

:It is about an
:archeologist and a stone mason who go to Egypt to reconstruct an actual
:pyramid in order to learn how it works.

My wife and I watched th eshow last night. It was quite interesting.
-- 
Mark A. Yedinak - yedinak@rtsg.mot.com 		*  "Don't take life too
Motorola - Wireless Enterprise Systems		*   seriously, you will
3205 Wilke Road, Arlington Heights, IL 60004	*   never get out of it
708-632-2874  (I said it, not the big M)	*         ALIVE!"
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house