HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Date: Fri,  9 Oct 1992 09:31:26 -0400 
From: "Kenneth J. Ballo" <kb1z+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: OLYMPUS IS-1 Remote flash

Does anyone know of an adapter or add-on module to trip a PC cord for
the IS-1. The flash mount for the optional flash has contacts on it, and
I assume there is something out there to take a PC cord.  I'd like to
use _all_ of my equipment with _all_ of my cameras & I really want to
use a radio slave, but it takes.....you guessed...A PC cord !       :-(

 ==========================================================================
 Ken Ballo                                     |  I N D E C I S I O N      |
 KB1Z@ANDREW.CMU.EDU                           | I S   T H E  K E Y  T O   |
 CARNEGIE MELLON - HEINZ SCHOOL                |  F L E X I B I L I T Y !  |
 ==========================================================================
Organization: Masters student, Industrial Administration, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 15:13:10 -0400 
From: Lily Joenoes <lj00+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Photographer needed immediately

I need someone to take pictures of several new products. It is preferred
that this person has a good lighting experience or has an access to a
studio for a good lighting. 

For details please give me a call at 687-7721

Thank you

Lily 

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: rlundqui@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Robert G Lundquist)
Subject: Re: Experience with Canon EF 100-300mm f/4.5-5.6 USM
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 19:29:08 GMT

>Given the moderate ( ~$150 ) price diference between the 100-300USM and the
>100-300L, I can't see why you wouldn't get the L, unless you must have the
>much faster focusing speed of the USM. Can a USM-MM version of the 100-300L
>and the 80-200L be far away? Hope not...
>
>~Paul

Along the same general line has anyone seen the new 75-300 USM?  It
was in a new EOS lens brochure I picked up saturday at a local photo
dealer.  Since I was just about to buy a 100-300 USM, based primarily
on the recent discussions here, the appearance of a new candidate.

So far I have learned that my local dealer has them on order and
expects them in 2 or 3 weeks and that the price will be about $10
to $15 less than the 100-300.  The maximum aperture is f4 as with the
MM version and the weight is under 500 grams.  I called Camera World
of Oregon and they also expect arrival in 2 weeks.

I really need the lens now.  I sold my OM-4 and all its lenses last week.
I don't know whether to wait or to go ahead and buy the 100-300.  I 
know I want the USM for shooting sports which is why I need the tele
now.  Soccer season is over too soon.

Has anyone seen the lens that could tell me some more about it?  Does
anyone know of an honest mail order dealer who has one in stock now?
Any help would be appreciated

BOB
From: fanelli@gagme.chi.il.us (michael fanelli)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Seeking good Pentax lenses
Date: 8 Oct 92 12:07:47 GMT
Organization: GAGME - Public Access UNIX of Chicago, Illinois, USA, Earth
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]


I have been very happy buying Pentax lenses from dealers in Shutterbug
magazine. I too have an LX, for me, the perfect camera. K-mount lenses
are all over the place. The major manufactures such as Tamaron and Tokina
have a large line of manual mount lenses, and their quality according to
lab tests is just as good as name brand.

You may find that going to another brand, or even a new Pentax model, will
leave you wityh less than you have now. I use mirror lockup a lot for macros,
very few cameras (and then, only the really expensive ones) have MLU. Also,
after a trip to Colorado last winter, my LX and MX and someone elses old manual
Nikon F something were the only ones that worked. And we are not talking just
about batteries here. The new cameras, with few exceptions, just don't seem
to handle the poor weather very well. Good luck!

By the way, the used dealers I have done well with are Don Chatterton and
Brooklyn Camera Exchange.

			michael fanelli
			72040.2460@compuserve.com
From: Rick.Ellis@ofa123.fidonet.org
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: 8x10, Christopher Burkett, light sources
X-Sender: newtout 0.02 Oct  1 1992
Date: 13 Oct 92  16:43:35

On <Oct 13 16:43> Steve Gombosi writes:

>  Never mind the upcoming layoffs, Barry. Go ahead, buy an 8x10
>  system. You should be able to get started with used equipment for
>  under a thousand. And I'll bet that you already own a lens or two
>  that can cover 8x10. Of course, film holders will cost nearly $50
>  each - and they won't be nice, compact mido's. But after shopping
>  for enlargers, you may want to consider buying a 20x24 camera
>  and just sticking to contact prints. :-)

 SG> They don't make Velvia in 20x24 ;-).

Did you ask?
From: dp@world.std.com (Jeff DelPapa)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Macbeth Color Chart
Date: 7 Oct 92 19:12:11 GMT
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA

Any pro oriented camera store should have them in stock. They are
fairly expensive, mine was $30. a number of years ago.

<dp>

(since you live in rochester, you could also try light impressions,
they should carry it)
From: lk10+@andrew.cmu.edu (Leslie Jo Kavchak)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Platinum printing?
Date: 8 Oct 92 16:37:42 GMT
Organization: Fifth yr. senior, Architecture, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA

I am looking for any available information on where to by chemicals or
precoated papers to do platinum printing.  I have done some non-silver
processing before so mixing chemicals etc. should not be a problem -
however I recently heard there is a company producing platinum papers. 
I would much rather go that route.  Any info greatly appreciated!!

L. Kavchak
Carnegie Mellon
From: jkk@aiai.uucp (John Kingston)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: U.K. (over)Pricing !
Date: 8 Oct 92 13:47:26 GMT
Reply-To: jkk@aiai.uucp (John Kingston)
Organization: AIAI, University of Edinburgh, Scotland

In article <1992Oct7.121201.9771@news.ysu.edu> ag544@yfn.ysu.edu (Erl R. Johnston) writes:
>
>   Having recently purchased a Canon EOS 1000FN for 300 pounds
>I have been led to believe that the same camera is available
>in other , non-european, countries for a significantly 
>smaller amount, the same being true for EF lenses.
>   Are we in the U.K. being held to ransom by the importers ???
>Opinions Welcome !

Primarily by the government. U.S. prices are the same in dollars as we pay in
pounds (roughly), and I went so far as to telephone some U.S. stores and ask
for their brochures when looking for a camera recently. The main reasons for
this are 1/ U.K. VAT at 17.5 % and 2 / U.K. Customs import duty of 7.5 %,
adding 25 % to the price of any imported cameras. I decided against buying by
mail order from the U.S. because

1/ I would have to pay the 25% anyway :-(

2/ U.S. cameras typically only have U.S. warranty (and possibly U.S. screw
sizes for tripods too)

3/ The shipping would either have been very expensive (air) or very slow (I
was told up to 3 months by sea!)

If you buy the camera abroad, you only have to pay the 7.5% duty, or maybe
nothing at all, on entering the U.K.

By the way, many thanks to the compiler of the list of experiences of U.S.
mail order stores. Someone who reads this group regularly should do the same
in the U.K.

In the end, I scoured "Amateur Photographer" magazine's ads section, and
bought a new Minolta 5000i with Sigma 28-70 zoom lens, plus a second-hand
Vivitar 60-300 Dynax fit zoom lens with skylight filter for a total of 300
pounds. The Post Office failed to deliver the camera for a month, but that's
another story.

JK



John Kingston,                               | 
Knowledge Engineering Methods Group,         | The heart of the problem
AIAI, University of Edinburgh                | is the problem of the heart
E-mail jkk@aiai.ed.ac.uk, phone 031-650 2736 |   
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: dp@world.std.com (Jeff DelPapa)
Subject: Re: 8x10, Christopher Burkett, light sources
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 01:19:30 GMT

>>  for enlargers, you may want to consider buying a 20x24 camera
>>  and just sticking to contact prints. :-)
>
> SG> They don't make Velvia in 20x24 ;-).

Kodak will happily cut any of their sheet films to your choice of size
(assuming the narrow dimension is less than the web width) if you
order it in 800 sq/ft lots (only 200 sheets).  I assume that fuji
would also provide such a service if asked nicely.  How do you think
Doug Bush gets film for his 32x50 camera...

<dp>
From: scheng@bcarh886.bnr.ca (Spencer Cheng)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Outdated Kodachrome (re: Freezing Film)
Date: 9 Oct 92 20:09:02 GMT
Organization: Bell-Northern Research

In article <588@tsw.UUCP> ray@tsw.UUCP (Ray Izumi) writes:

   Just out of curiosity - is that really considered a good price for Kodacrhome
   in Canada? It's really high relative to US prices. Kodachrome can be had by
   mail order for about $6 US (about $7 Canadian).

I seem to recall that KR sold in the US do not normally include
processing. The ones sold in Canada usually do include processing by
Kodak Canada. (The last time I bought some, it did anyways). How much 
is processing for KR south of the border there?

--

Spencer Cheng     scheng@BNR.CA  Bell-Northern Research, Ottawa, Canada  613-763-4046
From: bihkyan@uxa.ecn.bgu.edu (Yang Yuanxin)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Nikon N90 Features Summary
Date: 7 Oct 92 18:46:35 GMT
Article-I.D.: uxa.BvrLHn.B57
Organization: Educational Computing Network

In article <1992Oct7.031009.18640@sctc.com> miller@sctc.com (Steven M. Miller) writes:
>I've had mine for a week.   Been very happy with how the camera operates.
>I've run a couple of rolls through it and the results are excellant.
>I can't wait till I get a good feel for the camera and the accessories
>are available.
>
>_Steve
>
>Summary of NIKON N90 Features.
>
>(many features require pricey options, 'D' lens', SB25 speedlite,
> MF26 databack, Sharp Wizard )
>                  
>                 
>Feature/Camera   |  N90    |
>============================
>Price at CW of O |$749.85  |
>Shiftable program|No       |
>...
>Multiple Expos.  |w/back   |
>....
>Mirror lockup    |No       |
>....
>Max Frames/sec   |3.6     
 Seems Canon is the right way to go. 
YY.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au (Paul Repacholi)
Subject: Manual EF Canon... not realy
Organization: Curtin University of Technology
Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1992 08:30:37 GMT

In article <371@biosys.apldbio.COM>, mpc@biosys.apldbio.COM (Morgan Conrad) writes:
...
> 
> Will Canon ever come out with a no-motor-drive,
> perhaps even no AF, camera that takes EF lenses?
> Is some weird technical feature that I'm unaware of
> that would prevent this?
> 
Probably not. The EF lenses require power for thr diaphram, and the L USMs to
focus at all. For some lenses, the power needed for focusing is not trivial.
You also need enough electronics to control the diaphram as well. So...
Since we have at least one chip, and a power source, it only makes sense to
pile in as much compute as we can. Add I assume, a TTL meter of some sort,
and it get stupid not to automate the exposure.
We now have the EF-M, only hopefully a real camera instead of the Zenit MkII
the current EF-M is.
The only place I can see this making sense is to also give it a removable prism,
and plug the gap in the technical photo field that is still only served by the
F-1n. Given that Canon seem to have push most of the serious macro stuff into
the FD mount and the EOS-FD Macro converter, I can see this happening soon.

All of ther above of course assumes a sane answer to the question "Why Bother?".

~Paul

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: smustopo@nyx.cs.du.edu (sofjan mustopoh)
Subject: Re: Changing films
X-Disclaimer: Nyx is a public access Unix system run by the University
	of Denver for the Denver community.  The University has neither
	control over nor responsibility for the opinions of users.
Organization: Nyx, Public Access Unix at U. of Denver Math/CS dept.
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 92 22:15:03 GMT


   Stuff about film leader left out deleted

   My Maxxum 8000i allow me to do it with custom function card
 and change the default. top line camera from Nikon and Canon 
 also allow this. The reason they don't  incorporate this
 feature in every camera is because it would take some memory
 and add at least one more button or function button.
   I think 8000i remove the beeper and this feature because of
 memory limitation . 
   Another is how many casual users will change film in 
 the middle of roll.

  Muskie


Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: glossop@seas.smu.edu (Dr Neal Glossop)
Subject: Can I "pull process" a film?
Organization: School of Engineering and applied science; S.M.U.; Dallas, Tx
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 03:21:15 GMT

I know, it was dumb.  I just shot a roll of 200 ASA colour print film
at 100, including all of my flash settings etc.  Is there a way to
get this developed so that it will work, or is that it?  It was Kodak Gold 200.

Neil

Newsgroups: rec.photo,misc.forsale
From: gsgi_ss@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Greg Gibson)
Subject: Canon F1 System for sale
Organization: University of Rochester - Rochester, New York
Distribution: usa
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 92 07:10:12 GMT

My aunt's husband gave me his old F1 to sell.  I own a 10S.

I've been to several camera stores and none of them want it only
because they all have one or two for sale already.  Obvioulsy, if
they would reduce the price, maybe they would sell.  The camera
is in really excellent condition and of course I'll take it
back if you do not agree.

Original Canon F1 ser. 151008 w/ original interchangable finder

Canon FD 50 1.4  w/ 55mm sky 1a filter
Canon FD 35 2.0  S.S.C. w/ protective lense cylinder case
Canon FD 135 3.5 S.C.aw/ protective lense cylinder case

Vivitar 285 Zoom Thyristor

The camera was used to take close ups of art in the MET in NYC.
The 50 and 135 focus down to 1.5 feet, the 35 to 1 foot.
The 50 is on the camera in one of those leather camera cases 
that fit 50mm lenses.

The camera store sells this stuff for $650 which must be high cause
they are sitting.  I'd like to sell this so I'm accepting reasonable
offers.

I appreciate the time it takes to reply.

Thank you,

Greg Gibson
From: Rick.Ellis@ofa123.fidonet.org
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Platinum printing?
X-Sender: newtout 0.02 Oct  1 1992
Date: 09 Oct 92  16:07:38

On <Oct 09 16:07> Ron Speirs writes:

 RS> I have seen advertisements from Bostick & Sullivan in Van Nuys, CA, 
 RS> regarding platinum and palladium printing.  You might try Directory 
 RS> Assistance to get their number.

+1 818 785-4130
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au (Paul Repacholi)
Subject: Re: Hyperfocal distance definition
Organization: Curtin University of Technology
Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1992 20:12:57 GMT

In article <1992Oct8.042012.21928@cello.hpl.hp.com>, jacobson@cello.hpl.hp.com (David Jacobson) writes:
...
> The problem is I don't really know what we mean by hyperfocal
> distance.  
> 
> One commonly used defintion is the closest point that is in focus when
> the lens is set for infinity.  With this defintion the hyperfocal
> distance is F^2/(f c).
> 
> F is focal length, f is f-stop, and c is acceptable
> circle of confusion.  
> 
...
> 
> Both strongly held opinion and textbook/handbook precident are
> encouraged.  
> 
The Ilford manual of Photography (1953) votes as above, as does the Macquarie
Dictionary (1981)

~Paul

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au (Paul Repacholi)
Subject: Re: Bullets through balloons
Organization: Curtin University of Technology
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1992 11:20:03 GMT

In article <Oct.8.16.07.56.1992.5055@einstein.rutgers.edu>, janowsky@einstein.rutgers.edu (Steven Janowsky) writes:
> A rough calculation shows that a typical (supersonic) bullet moves at
> about 1mm/microsec.  Thus your thyristor flash at 1/50,000 second just
> isn't going to do it.
> 
> You need really, really, really short times.  You can't get it with a
> xenon flash tube.  Air-gap flashes can give much shorter times.
> 
Look for and old National unit. they have a coiled tube with an octal plug base.
Look a bit like an old graflex flash. These are *VERY* fast. they run at about
7KV from memory.
The thing you need is high voltage and NO SCR/thyristor control. Most studio
flashes are out too. just about all units now have an inductor in the circuit
to INCREASE the flash time.

~Paul

From: Ron.Gage@altern8.mi.org (Ron Gage)
Sender: FredMail@altern8.mi.org
From: robert@sys.sweden.dg.com (Robert Claeson)
Subject: Minolta exposure meter
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 08:29:16 GMT
Organization: Data General AB, Akalla, Sweden

Has anyone tried the Minolta Autometer IV F (NOT the Flashmeter IV F)?
I got to play with one for a few minutes the other day and found it easy
to use yet quite capable. But I never got around to try it in some real-life
situations.

-- 
------------------------------ END OF MESSAGE ------------------------------
Robert Claeson                Internet: robert@sys.sweden.dg.com
Data General AB                         robert@sys.dg.se
Box 28                             CEO: robert@sys.sweden.dg.com:dg-smtp
S-164 93 KISTA                     Tel: +46 (0)8-92 55 00
Sweden                             Fax: +46 (0)8-751 36 22
From: notes@hpcvnb.CV.HP.COM (NotesSystem)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Seeking good Pentax lenses
Date: 8 Oct 92 23:14:49 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Corvallis, Oregon

Sheldon -

Most of the older screw thread or K mount Takumar lenses are decent quality.
BUT..... if you want higher quality lens, old and new, with the most variety,
go to Nikon.  I have used almost everything Nikon, Canon, and Pentax make.
They all make fine equipment, but overall Nikon is hard to beat.  The good 
Pentax stuff is getting scarcer.  There is plenty of good Nikon and Canon
equipment around.   Have fun whatever you choose.


... rich lovin
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au (Paul Repacholi)
Subject: Re: Tripods
Organization: Curtin University of Technology
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1992 18:52:58 GMT

In article <1992Oct9.183611.7857@tfs.com>, glp@tfs.com (Gregory Pease) writes:
...
> Has anybody had this sort of problem and solved it?  (BTW, the 
> Bronica has no mirror lock-up.)  

Got it in one. The problem is lack of damping and probably a resonace of the
entire rig. See if you can get some Sorbothane, or plain polyurathane, as soft
a grade as you can find and rig up a cradle for the camera with the plastic
as a liner. The idea is to let the plastic adsorb let vibrations. Even just
adding a weight to the head may well help by lowering the resonance frequency.
Oh, one gotcha is forgeting to tighten the lock screw if you raise the center
colum of the tripod.

~Paul
From: ka1gt@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (robert.m.atkins)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: moonlit landscapes / stars (4x5)
Keywords: night, moon, stars, 4x5, view camera
Date: 15 Oct 92 20:03:10 GMT
Article-I.D.: cbnewsm.1992Oct15.200310.6275
Distribution: na
Organization: AT&T

In article <1992Oct15.011901.9934@beaver.cs.washington.edu>, franz@cs.washington.edu (Franz G. Amador) writes:
> Does anyone know a good way to pick an exposure for a moonlit
> landscape?  Seems like there ought to be a rule equivalent to "sunny
> f/16" for the full moon; the half moon ought to be one stop darker;
> etc.  I doubt my light meter will work; it reads only to EV 1 (ISO
> 100).
> 

I can tell you that the brightness (luminance) of the sun is
1.4E5 Candle/sq.cm, and that of the moon is 5.5E-1 Candle/sq.cm.
The illuminance is the quantity you want (I think) and since the sun
and moon are similar in size illuminance would scale with brightness,
giving a ratio of 250000. If this is right, it would mean that you would
have to open up 18 stops from your sun reading to get correct exposure
for the (full) moon. Reciprocity failure is going to come in here, so maybe
20 stops might be better? That would mean that a 1/50 sec at f16 in
bright sunlight (Velvia) would become about 10 minutes at f2.8 under bright
moonlight. These are theoretical numbers - I have no experience in
moonlight photography!

> Also, does anyone have a good explanation for the effects of aperature
> upon star trails?  I've heard it said that the aperature affects the
> thickness of the trails, not their brightness, which depends strictly
> upon the "light gathering" ability of the lens.  Is this right?  Does

A star is a point source, so the physical diameter of the lens determins
the "brightness" of the image, not the relative aperture (f-stop). This
ONLY applies to point sources. The size of a stellar image depends on 
the brightness of the image due to various emulsion effects (i.e. artifacts
of the film). The brightness of the image also depends on the brightness of
the star of course. Brighter stars will produce "thicker" trails.

You might want to follow up this question in sci.astro for expert 
astrophotograpic opinions.


===============================================================
Bob Atkins  AT&T Bell Labs  email (direct)  att!clockwise!rma
===============================================================
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: sylve_ge@jhunix.hcf.jhu.edu (Gerald Sylvester)
Subject: Re: Push/Pull Processing (Was "Re: Can I "pull process" a film?") Summary: 
Organization: HAC - Johns Hopkins University, Baltimore
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 23:00:19 GMT

In article <1992Oct12.224334.3252@PacBell.COM> jpglori@srv.PacBell.COM (John P. Gloria) writes:
>In article <ldjmeoINNj47@jethro.Corp.Sun.COM> sdm@pyramid.Corp.Sun.COM (Scott Mann) writes:
>>>
>>>You really shouldn't have anything to worry about. WHY? 
>>>Color print film such as the one you used, has the tolerance
>>>for 2-3 stops under/over, therefore, your lab should have no
>>>problems during printing.  I recently shot, in purpose,
>>>Kodak 100 at 200 and since this is affect a 1 stop over, the
>>>prints came out great. Your 1 stop under, should not adversely 
>>>affect your pictures, if fact, they "might" be better. :-)
>>>
>>>-- 
>>
>>I often shoot Ektar 100 at ISO 200.  I have heard that push
>>processing is unnecessary, which seems to be what you are
>>saying here.  Correct?  If so, what does the lab do when
>>they push-process (some labs charge extra for this)?

Isn't it usually better to overexpose, instead of underexposing (shooting
100 at ISO 200), negative film for better color saturation?

Gerald Sylvester