HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: greeven@clipper.ingr.com (John Greeven)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Carbon Buildup in engines ( valves ? ).....
Date: 31 Jul 92 16:55:39 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Intergraph Advanced Processor Division - Palo Alto, CA

In article <1992Jul23.091629.11026@mr.med.ge.com>, hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987) writes:
> 
> Speaking of water injection, what would that do for me on a turbocharged,
> intercooled car?  Does the H2O raise the effective compression, or cool
> the incoming air (as the intercooler does), or what?  I'm getting 175hp
> out of my car now (stock), would H2O injection be worth the effort?
> (I know that SAAB sells them as an optional accessory, or at least used to).

If you install water injection you're not going to notice any performance
improvement.  That's not what it does (directly, anyway).  You don't get a
compression increase.  

Here's what typically happens.  You have a car with a detonation problem
due to high compression (for example).  You could go out and buy higher
octane fuel, octane booster additives, or perhaps even racing fuel.  Or,
you could use water injection alone or in combination with the above.

Common applications solve detonation problems.  In my case, I have '66
Buick convertible that has a 10.25:1 motor.  I use the car for towing
sometimes and it defimitely has a pinging problem.  Ever since I installed
and tuned the water injection I not only have very little pinging but
I have very clean plugs!  This really seems to increase the time between
tune-ups.  

I would say that if you made modifications to your car that caused it
to begin having detonation problems, then you should look into a 
water injection system.  Otherwise, I see very little utility.

John Greeven
greeven@clipper.ingr.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ratter@b8.ingr.com (Ray Ratte)
Subject: Re: Anti-theft devices
Summary: INFO ON ANTI-THEFT DEVICES
Organization: Intergraph
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 20:42:28 GMT

I need some help choosing an anti-theft device for my wife's '89 Cougar.

I read in consumer reports that the CLUB is no longer recommended because

the steering wheel can be cut to remove it.  What I am considering are;

engine disablers  or _super_nuts wheel protection_ which I know nothing about.

Any comments and recommendations would be appreciated.

Thank you
 _ __                _ __
' )  )              ' )  )     _/_ _/_
 /--' __.  __  ,     /--' __.  /   /  _
/  \_(_/|_/ (_/_    /  \_(_/|_<___<__</_
             /
            '
Ray Ratte @ Intergraph Huntsville
ray@rayr.b25.ingr.com.




Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: eur@dutncp2.tn.tudelft.nl (Eur van Andel)
Subject: Re: Starting out?
Organisation: TU Delft, The Netherlands
Organization: Delft University of Technology
Distribution: rec
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 11:48:38 GMT

In <AGRAWAL.92Jul26131254@lipari.usc.edu> agrawal@lipari.usc.edu (Amitabh Agrawal) writes:


>I have a 84 Mazda GLC Dlx (83K) and was thinking of doing most of the
>work on the car myself. So far I have virtually no experience with
>cars so needed some advice as to how difficult/time consuming this is?

>What are the minimum tools that I need to be able to start working on
>the car? Should I buy the tools as I need or is there a minimum tool
>box that I should get? Which is the best (cost effective) tool box to
>get? 
A 1/2" wrench set of GOOD ($$$) quality.

>I have the Hayne's Mazda book(I think). Is there some other book that
>I should buy? What is a good book to understand the basics of the
>various subsystems of car (e.g. how does an automatic transmission
>work).
With two planetary gear systems.

>I was thinking of changing the engine oil/filter by myself next
>weekend. Can I screw it up in a big way? 
No. Get an oil filter-changer-tool and a can to get the old oil.
Be sure to have a good fitting wrench for the oil plug.

Drive the car for 10 miles so the oil heats up, drain it, put
in a new filter (screw on with your hand) and pour in new oil.

The only way you can screw up is to drive without oil.

eur


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: x1sdup@emav118.rtp.dg.com (Stephen Dupre)
Subject: 86 Camry Spark Knock
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 92 21:14:47 GMT
Organization: Data General Corporation, Westboro, MA

I've been having a problem with spark knock (or so it sounds) on
my 2.0 Litre EFI Camry.  It happens in cold or hot weather.  After
writing to the NHTSA group, I found that Toyota had a technical
bulletin stating the pistons had to be replaced in response to
the problem.  I guess a lot of them were fixed at the factory.  

Given that I have 83k miles (I bought it with 62k), are there any
tricks to get rid of the spark knock that people have used.  I
have tried:

1.  Higher octane gasoline. (no effect)
2.  Colder range plugs.     (no effect or very little)
3.  EGR valve check         (works OK, holds vacuum, etc)
4.  Cooling system fine.    (checks out fine - standard thermostat)
                            (new radiator cap - holds pressure)
5.  Air door on snorkel     (operates correctly)
6.  Engine mount check      (by Toyota dealer.  Another bulletin
                             about knocking in engine compartment
                             this wasn't the problem)

I've toyed with the idea of 

1.  Retarding the timing (may not help - will lose power)
2.  Bringing cold air into the intake.  If you own one
    you know the snorkel ends inside the engine compartment
    with absolutely NO way to duct outside air to it.  (IE
    it ALWAYS gets underhood air - getting hotter as the
    engine runs longer - contributing in some way to the 
    problem.

The car is currently getting 36 mpg so I have no complaints on
the knock hurting mileage but worry about what it's doing to 
my engine.  (It's pretty loud and constant when the engine is
warn and under load)

Does anyone know if there is a knock sensor that may be out of
whack.

Any suggestions?   (short of buying a new car :-)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen)
Subject: CAGS on corvette LT1
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 92 21:27:08 GMT

my friend just bought a corvette LT1.
he hates the CAGS and wonders if there's a way to disconnect it.
as it is right now, it's easier to just let the engine rev up until
the CAGS won't activate than to be forced into a 1-4 shift.
so, does anybody know about how to do this?  i'm sure somebody
has done this before.  yeah, i know, warranty.  never mind the
warranty.  how do you disconnect the CAGS?
-teddy
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: anandjr@hubcap.clemson.edu (Rajesh Anandjiwala)
Subject: Help, Brake Lights Not Working.
Organization: Clemson University, Clemson SC
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 16:00:48 GMT



In my 1985, Olds '98 the brake light does not work all the time. The
major symptoms are as below:

(1) Out of three (two on left and right tails and one in the centre on
the back board) the center one is always working. Two on tails used to
work sometimes, but these days they do not work). I have put all four
new bulbs.

(2) When I switch-on the headlight or park-light all four tail bulbs
are working all right, however, with foot brake pedal depressed the
second filament of the bulbs (responsible for brake light) does not
light up.

(3) The contacts checked indicate the current is flowing all-right.


I need some help from some knowledgeables please.

Thanks.

Rajesh
From: frank@marvin.contex.com (Frank Perdicaro)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Increasing power?
Date: 29 Jul 92 19:31:45 GMT
Organization: Xyvision Design Systems

In article <13720@mindlink.bc.ca> Cliff_Lum@mindlink.bc.ca (Cliff Lum) writes:
>> 
>> rsoft!agate!ames!sun-barr!cs.utexas.edu!hermes.chpc.utexas.edu!news.utdallas.e
>> du writes:
>> 
>> Msg-ID: <1992Jul24.133816.20347@bnr.ca>
>> Posted: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 13:38:1
>> 
>> Org.  : Bell-Northern Research, Richardson, Tx
>> 
>> 
>> Does anyone have any ideas on how to increase the power produced by a
>> normally
>> aspirated V-8 engine?
>> 
Deleted stuff.

I have not seen anybody else suggest this expensive soluiton.

John Lingenfelter(sp?) uses a race preped TH700R with a 2 speed OD
unit in some of his road racers to give him what must be considered 
a very good automatic.  Lower first gear than a TH300/350, and higher
top gear.  In effect you get 6 speed when shifting linearly -- 1, 2,
3, 4, lock-converter, OD.  With a 33% OD, and 4.56 rears, you can get
in the 12s, and 220mph top end with one of his race prepped 383s
through the mufflers.  Too bad its a $2000+ tranny package.

I would like to get one for my Cutlass....

-- 
	 Frank E Perdicaro, Systems Admin, etc.		Xyvision Color Systems
      Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.		101 Edgewater Drive
   inhouse: frank@marvin, x5572				Wakefield MA
outhouse: frank@contex.com, 617-245-4100x5572		018801285
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: DIY compression meter
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 92 10:17:31 GMT

eur@dutncp2.tn.tudelft.nl (Eur van Andel) writes:
: Dear netters
: 
: I thought of making a compression meter by brazing a copper tube
: to an old sparkplug and connect it to a simple manometer.
: 
: Will this work? Should I make a one-way valve in the tube?
: Will I measure the pressure in the cylinder, or in the whole
: of cylinder, plug and tube? 
: 
keep in mind that you are actually measuring a volumetric ratio with a 
compression tester.  If your tubing is too large of diameter or to long,
you will skew the results to show lower than actual compression.  Say,
for instance, you have a 2 litre, 4 cyl. engine, with a 10:1 compression
ratio.  Each cyl. has 500cc displacement at BDC, and 50cc volume at
TDC.  if you add, say, 10cc worth of tubing capacity, you have an error
of 20%.  (No flames if I got the math wrong, it's 05:16 and I haven't slept
in 30 hours).

Note that the error would be consistant, but if you were looking for absolute
PSI or compression numbers, you would always see low ##'s.  Also note that
CONSISTANCY between cylinders is more important than the absolute number.
Then again, perhaps they tell us that because of the inherent inaccuracies
possible with compression gagues???

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - you get what you pay for; you pay for what you get.
hinz@picard.med.ge.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk (Codesmiths)
Subject: Re: Starting out?
Cc: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Reply-To: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 07:42:00 +0000


> What are the minimum tools that I need to be able to start working on
> the car?

Heres a re-posting of something I posted a while back:

Buy a Haynes book first, they usually have a list of selected tools
in the front. Don't go mad in a toolshop, good tools aren't cheap &
you really don't need all that much to start with. Some cheap tools
are a bargain, as they work fine, but won't last for 20 years the way
expensive ones will. Some cheap tools are just a joke & won't do the
job. Here are my recommendations, for where high quality is needed:

Steel toolbox. An ammunition box is cheap & better made than most.
Hammer (cheap)
Junior hacksaw
Chisel (Nickel alloy is expensive, but can be sharpened with a file &
doesn't need a grinding wheel)
File
Set of feeler gauges
Xenon timing light (the type that also connects to the battery)
Wire brush
Cheap electrical test meter from Tandy/Radio Shack
Set of cheap screwdrivers, varying sizes
Pair of good quality pliers
Pair of good quality wire cutters
Cheap socket set, 1/4" drive & 3/8" drive
Sparkplug socket
Cheap spanner set
Bag of mixed electrical connectors & fuseholders, a few rolls of wire
& hand crimping tool (cheap)

    And when you start looking underneath:

Pair of axle stands (essential)
Inspection light
Battery charger
Full size hacksaw (cheap), but with top quality HSS blades.
Good quality 1/2" drive rachet (Snap-On or similar)
Cheap ratchet extensions (a few, in different lengths)
1/2" sockets (Snap-On or similar quality), expensive so buy them
individually as needed.
Good quality spanners (Britool or Facom). These duplicate the cheap
set, but many things need 2 matching spanners to work on them.


Working on engine tuning, changing brake pads etc. is quite cheap to
start with & doesn't need much of a toolkit. Things that involve
lifting gear generally involve lots of tools too. Go for it if you
want, but we're now talking about a serious investment of time &
money into car-fettling.

Keep reading rec.autos.tech. We're quite a helpful bunch, but it's
not easy to give general answers. If you have a specific problem,
then ask away. The more information, the more concise an answer can
be, the quicker it is to type in & the more likely the netters are to
have time to help out.

   Have fun !

          Andy Dingley    dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: Increasing power?
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 92 09:58:11 GMT

markj@tekig5.pen.tek.com (Mark R Jensen) writes:
: In article <1992Jul29.094119.20703@mr.med.ge.com> hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987) writes:
: >: 
: >If you are looking for performance, you can most likely learn how to
: >shift at MUCH better times than an automatic would.  They are usually
: >set up for mileage rather than performace, and don't take the engine
: >up to optimal power range before shifting.
: 
: I beg to differ my friend. A trany with a shift kit will blow your manual 
: time away any day of the week. Also as far as shift points go you can
: recalibrate the govener to shift at the rpm you want or you can always
: shift manually if you really feel the urge for full controle. Torque
: converters can be changed to gain higher stall speeds for the *rocket*
: launch you may be looking for. This info is of course geared toward
: modafications and not a stock grandma shift Detroit stocker. If your not
: into changing things then go with the 4/5 speed. These days you see very
: few people running 4 speeds at the track since an automatic can be set
: up to shift consistantly every time not to mention durability and no
: chance of a missed shift although a manual shifter will give you better
: controle of the car when burning up the corners. It dependes on what
: your intentions are. 8^)
: 
I agree that if he wants to do some messing around, the automatic MIGHT be
faster, but I thought he was asking about stock equipment.  If you are
willing to mess around with the valving, chips, or whatever (automatics
are all FM to me,) then go for it.  I personally would only have one if I
had to drive in stop-and-go.

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - you get what you pay for; you pay for what you get.
hinz@picard.med.ge.com


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: tumbush@ee.eng.ohio-state.edu (Gregory J. Tumbush)
Subject: Damage to a stored car if unprepped
Originator: tumbush@tigris.eng.ohio-state.edu
Organization: The Ohio State University Dept of Electrical Engineering
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1992 16:18:34 GMT

Hello Netters:
  I have a quick question about a lack of preparation for storing a car.  My
wife found out about a '86 caddy that has not been run for two years.  I live
in Ohio so the humidity is fairly high.  The mileage is around 50,000 and
I would assume that they did not touch it for the two years.  Now the car
will not start and they want to sell it for $500.  What kind of possible
damage am I looking at?  I would hope that they were intelligent enough to
change the battery or at least charge it when they tried to start it.  
Could it just need a new battery or is there a possibility of serious
engine damage?

Thanks
Greg 

Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:9918 rec.autos:18155
From: rghoff@bb1t.monsanto.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
Subject: Re: Horsepower is a meaningless advertising term.
Date: 21 Jul 92 11:24:58 CST
Distribution: usa
Organization: Monsanto Company, St. Louis, MO

In article <1992Jul21.100528.7286@ucsu.Colorado.EDU>, weverka@spot.Colorado.EDU (Robert T. Weverka) writes:
> In <1992Jul20.182720.26606@bnr.ca> Peon w/o Email priv (Eric Youngblood) writes:
>>In <1992Jul20.153457.20046@cbfsb.cb.att.com>, rjc@cbnewsf.cb.att.com writes:
>>|> 
>>|> I'm looking at 5hp, 80 Gal tank, cast iron, compressor.
>>
>>WOW! I envy you! You must have a dedicated work shop. I cant say much about a 
>>compressor that large, but I will relate my experience purchasing a 3.5 HP 25
>>gal unit. Paid $299 at Sears. After close inspection this *is* a high quality
>>piece of equipment. It has a 120/240 15/17.5 amp GE electric direct drive motor.
> Horsepower is a meaningless advertising term.
> 
> A normal house circuit produces no more than 15 Amps of current
> at 120 volts.  This is 2.4 horsepower at 100% efficiency.
> To get more horsepower you need to run special wiring.
> 
> Don't believe any horsepower ratings.
> 
> -Ted
> 

Ok, so what's the best number to use for comparisons?

Rick.



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: love@stacken.kth.se (Love Feuer)
Subject: Volvo vs. SAAB (Was Re: grinding gears...)
Organization: Stacken Computer Club, Stockholm, Sweden
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 13:26:13 GMT

In article <1992Jul30.101358.27173@mr.med.ge.com> hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987) writes:
>
>I will concede some Volvos may last longer, but the SAAB is sure a hell
>of a lot more fun to drive!  I think one of the reasons for Volvo's
>longevity reputation is the fact that they are, GENERALLY SPEAKING, severly
>underpowered.
>
True. Although the Volvo can be brought up quite a bit since their engines
are so stable. A friend of mine has a 240 '84 with with a B23 engine that 
now resides on the other side of 300 hp. 
The drivetrain is changed to Getrag parts, but the engine is still pretty 
much Volvo. Forget those kinds of experiments in a SAAB.

But I would still trade my old 164 ('71, no rust(!)) for a good MB or BMW 
any day. Swedish cars may be good. But german cars (from the right factory) 
has it all...

>Flame away!
Nope.

Love Feuer love@lk.se





Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: eliot@chutney.rtp.dg.com (Topher Eliot)
Subject: Re: Fun pranks to pull with your car (Was: ++WHICH OIL BEST FOR)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 92 16:15:15 GMT
Reply-To: eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com
Organization: Data General Corporation, Research Triangle Park, NC

In article <9518@uqcspe.cs.uq.oz.au>, muzzle@cs.uq.oz.au (Murray Chapman) writes:
|> A friend of mine snapped his accelerator cable, and rather than leave his
|> car where it stood, we ran some string from the carby, up through the
|> vent, and in through the window.

A former professor of mine did this in his beetle, and drove it from Maine
back to Boston with a string running out of the back of the engine compartment,
up over the roof, and tied to his finger outside the driver's door.

He also once drove it a couple of thousand miles with a pushrod made out of
a piece of hardwood dowel.

-- 
Topher Eliot             Data General DG/UX Systems Administration Development
(919) 248-6371      eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com       {backbone}!mcnc!rti!dg-rtp!eliot
Obviously, I speak for myself, not for DG.
misc.consumers.house archivist.  Send mail to house-archive@dg-rtp.dg.com
"Daddy, did you know that super banana squash is a vampire?  And he drinks
blood from cactuses?"  -- Tommy, age 3.
From: mdrayton@hpmwtd.sr.hp.com (Mike Drayton)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: RE. Hydraulic Suspension
Date: 22 Jul 92 18:18:32 GMT
Organization: HP Santa Rosa Site (NMD MTA MWTD)

JLEHTIMAKI@finabo.abo.fi (Janne Lehtim{ki PAP) writes

 [Interesting article on Citroen hydro-pneumatic suspension deleted]

>Probably only the following models are ever imported to the US: DS, ID, CX,
>SM and XM 
----------
I remember the old ID and DS model Citroens from my childhood.
I don't think any Citroens are currently being imported to the US.  I
was really surprised at the large number of manufacturers and models
in Europe that we never see in the US.  Vienna seemed to have the 
broadest representation of cars from all over:  Seat, Lancia, Volga,
Wartburg, the full Citroen line from subcompact to big sedans, same
for Peugeot.

Too bad we don't get some of these.

Mike Drayton
mdrayton@sr.hp.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Auto Notes #2
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 23 Jul 92 22:48:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * Jacksonville AR USA * 501-985-0059


-> that made my car that is equipped with ZF transmission); but I am not
-> aware of any connection between von Zeppelin and ZF. Obviously,
-> Daimler met von Zeppelin's standards for one very important component
-> of his airships. I would like to know the source of your information
-> on this connection.

 It's on the flyleaf of my '78 ZF aftermarket accessories catalog.
                                                                                                                
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: TH400 Ratio`s 1:1,,any others?!
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 12:56:44 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 I don't believe you can get anything higher than 1:1 out of a standard,
non-overdrive transmission; the top gear is simply straight-through, no
gears per se, just the clutches locked up.

 Probably the best bet would be to see if there is an overdrive auto trans
around that will fit. In the US there has been a switch to the TH700 AOD
trans for RWD passenger cars; this is an overdrive type. Some have electric
converter lockup. The form should be close enough to the TH350/400; anyone
who swapped the GM combo into a Toyota shouldn't have any problem with
the differences if any. I suspect the big problem will be in finding one.
In the US there are several places which offer beefed-up TH700s which can
hold onto the back of a strong smallblock. I don't know if they're too
good for towing or >400 lb-ft though.
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#