HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: eliot@chutney.rtp.dg.com (Topher Eliot)
Subject: Re: does ivy harm trees?
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 92 16:24:50 GMT
Reply-To: eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com
Organization: Data General Corporation, Research Triangle Park, NC

In article <1992Sep21.042737.6552@adobe.com>, taft@adobe.com (Ed Taft) writes:
|> Is a tree harmed by ivy growing up the trunk or by a dense ivy patch
|> growing around the base of the tree? I'm talking about a
|> well-established small tree or tall shrub of 10 to 20 feet. Several
|> such trees in my yard appear to be suffering, most likely due to many
|> years of drought. Meanwhile, the ivy is thriving. Should I be
|> concerned that the ivy is growing at the trees' expense?

I had a friend back in Texas who used to have a job cleaning ivy out of trees.
He would cut it off at the ground and start pulling.  Every now and then a
tree would crash to the ground because it turned out to be dead.  He blamed
the ivy for killing it, but now that I think about it, I can't remember him
really establishing that it was the ivy that killed it.  I do know for a fact
that the very heavy ivy I had in my trees there kept little ("sucker") branches
from growing; when I cut off the ivy all of a sudden all these little branches
appeared.  So I would guess that eventually the ivy could cover the tree and
sort of snuff out all tree growth ==> dead tree.

-- 
Topher Eliot             Data General DG/UX Systems Administration Development
(919) 248-6371      eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com       {backbone}!mcnc!rti!dg-rtp!eliot
Obviously, I speak for myself, not for DG.
misc.consumers.house archivist.  Send mail to house-archive@dg-rtp.dg.com
"I opened an STR on myself and I had to reject it."  -- Paul McGrath
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: eliot@chutney.rtp.dg.com (Topher Eliot)
Subject: Re: Cleaning Oriental Rugs
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 92 19:53:21 GMT
Distribution: na
Reply-To: eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com
Organization: Data General Corporation, Research Triangle Park, NC

In article <1992Sep30.161202.118223@watson.ibm.com>, rhoover@watson.ibm.com (Roger Hoover) writes:
|> Well, I once called a professional service, acted very concerned
|> about the well being of my rug, and they told ma all of the details
|> of how they wash them.  What I have done successfully:
|> 
|> Wait for a nice dry warm day.  Take the rug out to your driveway
|> (you do have a driveway, don't you) which you have already cleaned.
|> Soak the rug with cold water.  Take a bucket with woolite and water
|> and slop on with a rag.  After soaking for a bit, suck up the stuff
|> with a wet/dry vac.  Rinse a couple of times.  Let dry in the sun
|> for a couple of days, turning over every now and then.  Hang it up
|> if you can, but they are very heavy.
|> 

I can tell you a procedure I used, and you can decide for yourself whether
or not to use it:

Find clotheslines behind garage of rented house:  two steel wires about 2'
apart, plenty long.
Drape big (~6x9) oriental rug over the two.
Beat the crap out of them with a rug-beater (sort of like a tennis raquet).
Large clouds of dust.
Take rug down.
Notice 2" tear where wire cut into edge of rug.
Notice look on face of wife's who's family has owned this rug since Moby Dick
was a minnow.
Take rug to fancy rug place and pay several hundred dollars to have it 
repaired.

-- 
Topher Eliot             Data General DG/UX Systems Administration Development
(919) 248-6371      eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com       {backbone}!mcnc!rti!dg-rtp!eliot
Obviously, I speak for myself, not for DG.
misc.consumers.house archivist.  Send mail to house-archive@dg-rtp.dg.com
"To arms, to arms!  The redcoats are coming!
One arm, one arm, the fatcoats are coming!"	-- Tommy, age 4.
From: rajiv@bongo.cc.utexas.edu (Rajiv Arora)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Storing Firewood (Oak)
Date: 6 Oct 92 20:27:44 GMT
Reply-To: rajiv@bongo.cc.utexas.edu (Rajiv Arora)
Distribution: na
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin, Austin TX
Originator: rajiv@bongo.cc.utexas.edu


Did anyone archive the recent discussion on firewood storage? I'm not one to go
storing wood for these looong Austin winters 8-), but I had a couple of oak
trees keel over in a recent storm, and now I'm up to my ears in firewood.

The wood is stacked up against the slab--my house is on a slope so the slab is
pretty tall at this point. I take it this is a big no-no to avoid termites?

A friend told me the procedure was to build a sort of platform of wood planks
(sorry for the nontechnical language--I can't tell a 2x4 from a 4x4!) on cinder
blocks, stack the wood on the platform, and cover with transparent plastic
(polythene?). Is this the correct procedure?

Thanks for your help.

-- 
******************************************************************************
* Rajiv Arora			Email: rajiv@bongo.cc.utexas.edu	     *
*				Phone: (512) 795-9015			     *
******************************************************************************
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,misc.invest.real-estate
From: pkrause@triton.unm.edu (Paul Krause CIRT)
Subject: Re: reducing the agents fees
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 92 15:03:36 GMT
Organization: University of New Mexico, Albuquerque
Distribution: usa

In article <1992Sep30.122528.11170@ncrcae.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM> shawn@grok90.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM (Shawn Shealy) writes:
>I have heard that sometimes the real estate agents involved in the
>sale/purchase of a house are willing to accept reduced fees (i.e.
>less than their 3% of list or whatever) to have the transaction
>complete.  Is this true?  How typical is it?  What are the regulations

For the agent I usually work with, any changes come out of his side of the
commission.  For example, if he normally keeps 75% of the 3% that his side
of the transaction generates (6% total commission), he can do whatever deal
he wants, but his broker still expects to get 25% of 3%.  If you negotiate
the commission to 5% on a $100,000 house the agent's net drops from $2,250
to 1,250.  Not exactly an incentive to do a great job for you.

Paul

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,uiuc.general
From: brokaw@flamingo.weeg.uiowa.edu (Pete Brokaw)
Subject: Re: This Old House
Organization: Weeg Computing Center, University of Iowa, Iowa City, IA, USA
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 17:20:39 GMT

In article <BvI5Av.Mrx@news.cso.uiuc.edu>, tmkk@uiuc.edu (Khan) writes:
|> Speaking of This Old House, when is the new season going to start?
|> 
|> Or has it already begun airing, and our local PBS station is simply
|> retarding for some unknown reason?
|> 

Locally, the new season starts one week from tonight (october 9).  TV
Guide says the first project is working on a house built in 1958 (not
1858, but 1958).  I wonder if they'll ever show the final results of the 
flat in London from the end of last season.

Pete
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
                  "The secret to a long life's knowing when it's time to go."
							pete-brokaw@uiowa.edu
							weeg computing center
							   university of iowa
							  iowa city, ia 52242
							       (319) 335-5453
From: jberlin@falcon.aamrl.wpafb.af.mil
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Re-seal double pane windows?
Date: 29 Sep 92 16:00:25 EST
Organization: USAF AL/CFH, WPAFB, Dayton, OH

In article <1992Sep28.162308.7000@yenta.alb.nm.us>, ben@yenta.alb.nm.us (Ben Klausner) writes:
> I recently noticed that one of the windows in my house has developed dome
> moisture between the double panes of glass. I called the local glass shops
> to try and get the window re-sealed, but no one seems to do that. They all
> want to sell me a new window pane.
> 
> Is there any practical way to repair, re-use, or re-seal the existing window
> pane? Thanks.
> 
> -- 

    Most of the labor is involved in removing the old unit and installing
 a new unit from the window frame which would have to be done anyway if
 the old unit were resealed.  Also, the inner surfaces of the glass would
 have to be cleaned.  We had several new 2-pane units installed when we
 went to sell our house for a very reasonable price by a local window
 and storm door guy.  About $50 a unit for a very large 36" X 30" opening.
 Should have had it done years ago, we put up with foggy windows for a
 very long time.
-- 

  Jim Berlin
 
"The opinions and views expressed here are strictly my own and do not 
necessarily reflect the official position of either the U.S. Air Force 
or its contractors."
From: vallath@vishnu.labs.tek.com (Vallath Nandakumar )
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Gas piping question
Date: 5 Oct 92 17:06:23 GMT
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Beaverton,  OR.

In article <3847@ecicrl.ocunix.on.ca> clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis) writes:
>In article <2090014@hpkslx.mayfield.HP.COM> russ@hpkslx.mayfield.HP.COM (Russ Lown) writes:
>> "where could i get some DIY information on doing a job like this?"
>>In particular, what are some good books on gas fitting.  Then, I can
>>decide if it's worth my time, and if it's legal for me to get the
>>permit and DIM (DoItMyself).
>
>Why not find out whether it's legal first, before spending any time
>or money finding out how to do it?  It just takes a phone call.
>-- 

Yes, it is legal here in Portland OR, where I live.  A permit
is needed (cost $30 for a gas dryer hookup to an existing gas
line in the house), and the work has to be inspected by a county
official.
The City of Beaverton guy told me that I could do it myself,
or get a contractor to do it for me.

Vallath Nandakumar
From: burton@misty.boeing.com (Brandy Burton-Tarantino)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Re: reducing the agents fees
Date: 2 Oct 92 16:04:25 GMT
Organization: Boeing Commercial Airplane BCS Support


>I don't think you can negotiate this too far in advance.  One thing we did
>fail to include in the original purchase agreement was to have the seller
>pay some of the closing costs...
>   
> Janice Kendall    kendall@adobe.com    ...!{decwrl|sun}!adobe!kendall
----------
  Actually you can  -- almost 3 months before closing our house came in over
  $6000 low on appraisal -- FHA will ONLY pay the appraisal figure --  we
  refused to go any higher than appraisal.  Builder dropped price to appraised
  figure in return for a 'kickback' from both the listing and selling agents.
  From the final papers it looks like the two agent split 4% between them
  (which for the amount of work they did and all the things they screwed
  up was about 4% to much!!)


XXXXXXXXXXXXXXX    2   XXXXXXXXXXXXXX  T. E. Brandy Burton-Tarantino         X
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXX   B-T  XXXXXXXXXXXXXX  uunet!bcstec!misty!burton@bcstec      X
X            Name your limitations, and you get to keep them.                X
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: gnh@cci632.cci.com (George Hillenbrand)
Subject: Re: Taking off old plaster
Summary: Use a wide flat shovel
Organization: [Computer Consoles, Inc., Rochester, NY
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 13:04:45 GMT

A wide flat shovel works great to take off old plaster.
You hit the wall hard a couple of times with the back of
the blade, then slide the blade between the plaster and
the lath, then shovel up the mess.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,misc.invest.real-estate
From: marcher@kean.ucs.mun.ca
Subject: Re: reducing the agents fees
Organization: Memorial University. St.John's Nfld, Canada
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 16:35:54 GMT

In article <1992Sep30.122528.11170@ncrcae.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM>, shawn@grok90.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM (Shawn Shealy) writes:
> I have heard that sometimes the real estate agents involved in the
> sale/purchase of a house are willing to accept reduced fees (i.e.
> less than their 3% of list or whatever) to have the transaction
> complete.  Is this true?  How typical is it?  What are the regulations
> governing the agents' fees?  How would one negotiate this reduction
> with his/her agent effectively?
> 
I just bought my first house recently and, because I was stalling 
over the price, my agent and the seller's agent cut their fees by $250 
each.  Apparently, the commission from selling a house is divided in 
four when the agents involved are from different companies (the best 
case scenario, I'm told).  One quarter goes to the seller's agent's 
company, one quarter goes to the buyer's agent's company, one quarter 
to the seller's agent and one quarter to the buyer's agent.  The end 
result was that I paid $250 less than I would have otherwise and the 
buyer received $250 more than he would have otherwise.  It was the 
most convoluted mortgage agreement ever!

I can't really address the issue of regulations - what applies to 
where I live probably wouldn't apply to your part of the world.

Cheers!
MEA
From: masticol@cadenza.rutgers.edu (Steve Masticola)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Broken Thermometers
Date: 30 Sep 92 03:21:42 GMT
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

redman@plate.megatek.com (Tim Redfield) writes:

[ broken mercury thermometer in bathroom ]

>        1) Is there an easy way to clean up after an event
>           such as this?

Sprinkle the area with sulfur powder. That will react with the mercury
and immobilize it. Then vacuum it up. (Treat the vacuum bag as
hazardous waste, like mercury batteries.)

>	2) What is the danger associated with mercury found in 
>           thermometers?

Probably not much, but mercury is toxic and causes nerve damage. If
it's like lead, the effect would be worse in children than in adults.

Mercury evaporates, so the vapor gets into the air. A family member
could also conceivably ingest some of it some other way (dropped
toothbrush?) So don't take chances.

- Steve (masticol@cs.rutgers.edu).
From: jdelsign@BBN.COM (John Delsignore)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Installing deadbolts in steel doors
Date: 30 Sep 92 16:38:29 GMT
Reply-To: jdelsign@BBN.COM (John Delsignore)
Organization: Bolt Beranek and Newman Inc., Cambridge MA
NNTP-Posting-Host: bbn.com


I have three run-of-mill steel-clad entry doors on my house...these
are your typical insulated steel entry doors.  They currently have
keyed knob sets, but I want to also install deadbolts in each of the
doors.

The doors are 1 3/4 inches thick, and it looks like there is wood
sandwiched between two sheets of steel along the edges.  Along the
edge of the door where the deadbolt belongs, there is some kind of
plastic knock-out.

	|         |	  
	|         |	  
	| +-----+ |	 
	| |     <-+----- Plastic knockout about 1" wide and 3" long.
	| |     | |	 
	| |     | |	   
	| |     | |<---- Deadbolt belongs somewhere around here.	  
	| |     | |
	| |     | |
	| |     | |
	| +-----+ |
	|         |
	|         |

I've got some questions:

	1. What's behind the plastic?
	2. Where do I drill the holes relative to plastic knokout?
	3. How easy is it to drill the opening for the deadbolt
	   through the steel?  Is there a special drill bit required?
	4. How do you keep the drill perpendicular to the door?
	5. What's going to go wrong?

Thanks, John D.
From: egreen@east.sun.com (Ed Green - Pixel Cruncher)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers
Subject: Re: Creative Resources, is it a MLM scheme? Se
Date: 28 Sep 1992 19:11:25 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, RTP, NC
Distribution: world
Reply-To: egreen@east.sun.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: laser.east.sun.com

In article 717454174@ucs.sdsu.edu, case@ucs.sdsu.edu (Steve Case) writes:
>Here's the story:
>
>A couple of weeks ago, I'm at McDonalds watching my kid play with all the 
>other youngsters. I strike up a conversation with a nice guy that has also 
>brought his kids to McD's. 
[MLM suspect]

Simple, there are friends, and there are people you do business with.

If you want to keep your friends, keep the categories mutually exclusive.

---
Ed Green, former Ninjaite |I was drinking last night with a biker,
  Ed.Green@East.Sun.COM   |and I showed him a picture of you.  I said,
DoD #0111  (919)460-8302  |"Go on, get to know her, you'll like her!"
 (The Grateful Dead) -->  |It seemed like the least I could do...
From: bd670@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Russell I. Dyreng)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers
Subject: Re: DISCOVER card ( MUST READ! )
Date: 2 Oct 1992 18:19:10 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


Sounds like a nice card.  Now tell me about the grace period.
-- 
Russ
bd670@cleveland.freenet.edu
Remember-any advice that I give you may be worth exactly what
you paid for it.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers
From: schwartz@nynexst.com (Steven Schwartz)
Subject: Re: Cleaning a humidifier
Originator: schwartz@baba
Reply-To: schwartz@nynexst.com
Organization: Expert Systems Lab., NYNEX Sci. and Tech., White Plains NY
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 92 16:06:05 GMT


In article <5OCT199208314936@watson.bms.com>, ram@watson.bms.com (Gena Ram) writes:
> Can anyone give me advice on cleaning an ultrasonic humidifier?  I tried using 
> alchol to clean the parts that seemed to be cleanable (can you tell I don't 
> know what I am doing?).  But there is a rank smell that is still present
> in the mist that comes out.  

Try vinegar.
-- 
Steven H. Schwartz		Expert Systems Laboratory
schwartz@nynexst.com		NYNEX Science and Technology Center
PROFS: SCHWARTZ@UNIX		500 Westchester Avenue
914-644-2960			White Plains NY 10604
Newsgroups: misc.consumers
From: sns@bondi.jpl.nasa.gov (Sam Southard)
Subject: Need recommendations for home office equipment
Keywords: phone, FAX, answering machine
Organization: SAR Systems Development & Processing, JPL
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 03:47:44 GMT

I'm starting a home office and I would like recommendations (both for and
against) the following types of equipment:

	a two-line phone
	a FAX machine
	an answering machine

The FAX machine will have its own line.  One of the two lines to the phone will
be my personal line (the existing one) and one will be the office line.  I
already have an answering machine for the personal line, and I want to keep
them separate - the office is in a room behind my garage and I don't want to
have to go out there to check my personal messages.

I don't care if the various features are combined, but they must meet all
above requirements - if it's an all-in-one it must have three lines with and
answering machine which can be set to only use one of the lines.

Also, what are the good features to look for in the above equipment?  I know
about plain paper FAXes and speaker phones.  What are some other options which
are useful?

Which specific machines would you recommend, regardless of cost?  Which machines
would you if cost is a factor?  Which ones would you avoid at any cost?

Thanks for your help.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers
From: markr@mot.com (Mark)
Subject: Re: 31" & 35" Televisions
Reply-To: markr@mcil.comm.mot.com
Organization: MCIL
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 08:00:04 GMT
Keywords: TV

In article <744@sadis01.sa.aflc.af.mil> rkorczyk@sadis05.sa.aflc.af.mil (RICK KORCZYK - SCDR (AI LAB)) writes:
>HI!, I'm looking to buy either a 31" or 35" television (NOT rear
>projection).  Has anyone had any dealings with these?  Any suggestions
>on good buys/bad buys.  Also anyone know the life life span on tube vs
>rear projection?

And a followup question, I am interested in 31" or 35" dual-system
televisions.  Dual-system meaning that the television can receive
and display both NTSC (USA type) and PAL (Europe type) signals.

Many thanks,

Mark
From: neilw@informix.com (Neil Williams)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers
Subject: Re: Diamond Advice Wanted
Keywords: diamond
Date: 2 Oct 92 20:22:47 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

In article <1a7hlqINN60m@gershwin.crhc.uiuc.edu> impact@crhc.uiuc.edu (Temporary Account for HP visitors) writes:
>A family friends knows of someone who works at a wholesale/retail diamond
>store in Chicago who showed a couple solitaire round cut (what do you call it,
>the circular one with 52 cuts?) diamonds. He had a very nice one that was
>considered one of the store's top diamond. He claimed it was a "russian"
>cut diamond with classification VSS2, Color D, and was a .79 carot stone.
>He said it was $3,299 and I believe it was suppose a wholesale price. Does
>sound like a good price? I trust that this guy was selling us good diamonds
>that had true ratings although who knows. I was thinking of maybe getting
>a .6 to .65 carot stone. Give the price of a .79 stone, how much do you
>think a .6 to .65 carot stone would be given the same clarity and color?
>I've spent many hours looking at many diamonds at many stores and this seems
>pretty good...

That price sounds pretty good, if the stone comes with a GIA certificate,
and if the table is of a reasonable proportion.  I believe the
commonly accepted range of a good table is 55% - 65%, or thereabouts.
If no one corrects me, take a look in whatever brochures you can
get at the various stores.

I think the term "Russian cut" comes from a diamond cutter in Russia 
who cut a stone with a larger table, giving the stone more "fire"
as opposed to the "sparkle" you get with a smaller table.  Fire 
in this case would refer to very bright flashes of light reflected
by the stone, as opposed to the twinkling, sparkling effect which
is more pronounced with a smaller table (other proportions being
similar, of course).  I believe the two schools of thought on the
"correct" proportions branched many years ago - it's been some
time since I researched all this.

Personal preference is the most important criteria, though.  My
wife prefered a D with a slightly larger table than an E which
the jeweller said had a better cut.  Who cares what the experts
say - you know best what you like.

--Neil

-- 
Neil Williams: neilw@informix.com

Seen on my last trip on United: "If you are seated in an exit row 
and can not (sic) read this card... please notify a crew member."
From: ken@wybbs.mi.org (Ken Jongsma)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers
Subject: Re: DISCOVER card
Date: 2 Oct 92 17:12:37 GMT
Reply-To: jongsma@benzie.si.com
Distribution: usa
Organization: Smiths Industries

hedges@pilot.njin.net (Douglas Hedges) writes:

>Edward_Engler@transarc.com writes:

>>There are a few places that only accept Discover (besides Sears).  One
>>that comes to mind is Pace Membership Warehouse.  Previously, they took
>>only cash or checks.  I believe that Discover has the lowest merchant

>[deleted]

>Same goes for Sam's Wholesale Club.  That's the only card they
>accept.  (Maybe that's why Sears is selling its Discover card
>unit among other things; they got tired of Wal-Mart and others
>thumbing them in the eye).

Well, considering that Walmart owns Sam's Club...


-- 
Ken Jongsma                                     jongsma@benzie.si.com
Smiths Industries                                    ken@wybbs.mi.org 
Grand Rapids, Michigan                      73115.1041@compuserve.com 
Newsgroups: misc.consumers,rec.video,sci.electronics,sci.misc
From: Mark-Tarbell@suite.com
Subject: Re: VCR Maintenance Advice Wanted. Head Cleaners Any Good?
Reply-To: suite!tarbell@uunet.uu.net
Organization: Suite Software, Anaheim CA.
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 23:57:20 GMT

> >chrisp@theory.TC.Cornell.EDU (Chris Pelkie) writes:
> >: 
> >: As everyone else points out, don't use anything with fibers in it,  
like cotton Q-tips or rags.
> >: In fact, watch the edges of your chamois for any small fibers (we  
just had that happen!).
> >
> >A standard method is to use a piece of card (the back of a new business  
card
> >is ideal)
> >
> >Take off the top of the machine (and any protective shielding over the
> >head assembly)
> >Hold the card flat against the video head and turn the head.

NO! This will scratch the video heads and drum, which will cause
a LOT of friction & wear on your precious tapes. It can also loosen
your video heads. Treat your video drum/heads like you would a
fine camera lens!  Those popular head cleaning tapes are murder
on video heads!
Newsgroups: misc.consumers