HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: hinz@bonfire (David Hinz (hinz@picard.med.ge.com))
Subject: Re: DC to AC on large scale???
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8]
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 93 11:13:38 GMT

philip rose `94 (rose@bucknell.edu) wrote:
: In article <1993Jan22.134237.13381@waikato.ac.nz>, phys2108@waikato.ac.nz writes:

: |> One way I believe they can do it is by using the dc to power a motor, which
: |> then drives an ac generator.
: |> Geoff.

: NOOOOO  WAAAAAY!!!

: This is done with power electronics,  no motors or generators are involved.

So, what you're saying is this:

"I've never heard of it, therefore it doesn't exist!"

Motor/Generators (MG's) have been around for many MANY decades.  We didn't
always have nice silicon controls to work with...

Commonly, you will have both the motor and generator (or alternator, whichever)
on the same shaft, so they are directly mechanically coupled.
If you put a big flywheel on the shaft between them, then you have a basic
UPS system...the mass of the flywheel will mostly compensate for the lost
power, to a point.

There is obviously an efficiency loss due to heat, and they take up a bit of
space, but they certainly do exist.

NOOOOOOOOOOOO WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY  indeed!  Sheesh.

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
Ask me if I have an opinion on this! \ Don't blame me; I voted for Perot!
SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.     \       Pherrets are Phun!!!
Newsgroups: sci.electronics
From: jdc3538@ultb.isc.rit.edu (J.D. Cronin)
Subject: Recharging alkaline cells?
Originator: jdc3538@ultb
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Distribution: ny
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1993 13:39:18 GMT



Is it possible to recharge alkaline cells?  I remember reading
they were rechargeable in one electronics-related book (perhaps
an older Radio Amateurs Handbook?) but never anywhere else.

Can this be done?  Have any of you run into refereces to charging
alkaline cells?  Or tried it?

Jim
From: pvr@wang.com
Newsgroups: sci.electronics
Subject: Re: is there a circuit drawing programme for DOS?
Date: 22 Jan 93 14:17:26 GMT
Organization: Wang Labs, Lowell MA, USA

ech@ac.dal.ca writes:

>Is there, somewhere out there, a simple circuit drawing programme?  I saw a
>post earlier about a PC board design programme for $100 or so.  I'm just
>looking for a cheap drawing programme which I can use to piece components
>together.  Shareware would be good.  I'm tired of using Harvard Garphics
>to draw my circuits, it get's awfully cumbersome, and I have to keep 
>shrinking the drawing and then matching component sizes gets messy etc...
>I've checked around with archie, but the only thing I found was a UNIX
>oc board design programme.  I run DOS, but I have access to a Mac.  

      Try PADS-PCB.   It is available as a fully working demo.   It
is only limited in the size of the design that it will handle.
No not than two board layers and about 20 IC's.   It has a
schematic capture editor, a board layout editor, an auto-router,
and a large parts library.   You can get it from Simtel20.


These files are available via anonymous FTP from WSMR-SIMTEL20.ARMY.MIL
(192.88.110.20) or mirror sites OAK.Oakland.Edu (141.210.10.117),
wuarchive.wustl.edu (128.252.135.4), ftp.uu.net (137.39.1.9),
nic.funet.fi (128.214.6.100), src.doc.ic.ac.uk (146.169.3.7) or
archie.au (139.130.4.6), by e-mail through the BITNET/EARN file
servers, or by uucp from UUNET's 1-900-GOT-SRCS.  See UUNET file
uunet!~/info/archive-help for details.

Directory PD1:<MSDOS.CAD>

PADSLIB.ZIP   B  488615  920212  PADS library for PADSPCB.ZIP and PADSLOG.ZIP
PADSLOG.ZIP   B 1081636  920212  PADS Logic schematic capture CAD program
PADSPCB.ZIP   B 1036461  920212  PADS PCB (printed circuit board) layout pgm

--
-->>>>>>>>>> Peter Reilley ..... pvr@wiis.wang.com ..... KA1LAT <<<<<<<<<<<--
                     Well, that about says it.
From: davet@riscdb.Convergent.Com (Dave Taylor)
Newsgroups: sci.electronics
Subject: Sony TR-series remote port
Date: 27 Jan 93 20:38:51 GMT
Reply-To: davet@riscdb.UUCP (Dave Taylor)
Distribution: sci.electronics
Organization: Unisys Network Computing Group (CT), San Jose, CA

A looooong time ago someone requested info on the Sony TR-series remote
serial port.  Only one follow-up reply was posted and it didn't contain
any information.  I've wanted to hack a on/record/pause/off capable 
send/receive unit for my TR-4 and maybe others would too, sooooo.......

Any information on voltage levels into the port, polarity of the socket,
and pulse-widths/data frames would be most appreciated. 

If you mail direct and have trouble use: davet@convergent.com.  If
you've enough info to do the world-at-large benefit please post.

David
Newsgroups: sci.electronics
From: eric@telebit.com (Eric Smith)
Subject: Re: vortrax
X-Disclaimer: Everything I write is false.
Organization: Telebit Corporation
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 19:42:56 GMT

>>On Wed, 27 Jan 1993 04:39:00 GMT, kez224@gemini (Never send a monster to do to work of an evil scientist.) said:
> Remember the Vortrax SC-01 speech chip? I need some, I found one in an old
> project. Where can I buy more?

You might be able to buy them from an SSI distributor.  SSI also made a
second generation part, the SSI-263, which might be the same thing as an
SC-02.  It's not pin-compatible with the SC-01 though.

Newsgroups: sci.electronics
From: philip@mentorg.com (Philip Peake)
Subject: Re: Starting a mercury lamp
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 17:29:05 GMT
Organization: Mentor Graphics
Keywords: 
Followup-To: 

In article <C1FvCx.6y8@max.physics.sunysb.edu>, danube@max.physics.sunysb.edu writes:
|>    Hello again.  More problems with my current research.  I need a UV
|> source.  I have a used Mercury lamp, said 250W before I took the envelope
|> off.  Inside is a quartz tube with two electrodes sticking into each
|> end and Hg blobs on the sides of the tube.  There is no filament between
|> the electrodes in the ends as in the ususal flourescent bulbs.
|>    On one end, the two electrodes are connected to the AC via a 15K (?)
|> resistor, i.e. hooked up like a little glow lamp with a current limiting
|> resistor.  The other end is simply connected to the AC, through what
|> was a filament of some sort before I evaporated it.  See the diagram
|> below.
|>     My question is, how is this lamp supposed to work and how can I
|> get it going without blowing fuses?  
|> 
|> 
|>  -------------------------------------------------------------------------|
|>     |           |                                                         |
|>     |           /                                           "filament"--> )
|>  110 V          \ R         --------------------------------------        (
|>    A.C.         /         |                                      |        )
|>                 \         |                                      |        (
|>     |            |________|____                              ____|___ nc  |
|>     |                     |                                      |        |
|>  ---------------------====|====           Hg vapor           ====|====----|
|>                           |                                      |
|>                           |                                      |
|>                            -------------------------------------- 
|>                                       Quartz tube
|> 
|> 
|>    I've tried replacing the "filament" with two 100 W bulbs to limit 
|> current, but cannot get the lamp to go on reliably and it probably also
|> limits the useful power.  Is one supposed to use a ballast in series with
|> this type of lamp?

It is supposed to have a current limiting inductor connected in series,
where your "filament" is marked.

As you supposed, the resistor and electrode just form a small discharge
which supplies the ionised gasses needed for the lamp to start.

I would actually connect "R" after the inductive load, not before.

Also, remember that these lamps need time to get going, 10 to fifteen minutes
before it is working at full efficiency.

I would suggest that the easiest method of making it work correctly would be
to go and buy a "security light", and strip out the control equipment for use
in your experiment.

I used to runn exactly the same sort of setup that you are trying, and
didn't have the control equipment (this was for 500 and 750 watt lamps),
so I used a 500 watt electric heater in series ...

Philip
From: garland@ohstpy.mps.ohio-state.edu
Newsgroups: sci.electronics
Subject: WANTED: RF Voltmeter ($100-$200)
Date: 23 Jan 93 11:28:42 EST
Organization: The Ohio State University, Department of Physics

WANTED: R.F. VOLTMETER

A friend of mine is looking for a used, cheap ($100-$200) r.f. voltmeter with
ranges  (full scale) spanning approximately 1mV to 3V, with a frequency range
of about 1MHz-1GHz.  The ideal instrument should be solid state, lab grade
(e.g., a HP #3406A), in good mechanical shape, and 1970's vintage or later.
He's already checked out Tucker and the other surplus instrument houses. Pse
email me your responses and I'll pass them along to him.  Thanks.

Jim Garland

GARLAND@MPS.OHIO-STATE.EDU

Xref: sparky sci.electronics:23125 rec.games.video.arcade:10249
From: gt4695b@prism.gatech.EDU (gt4695b liu, billy (sirtimer))
Newsgroups: sci.electronics,rec.games.video.arcade
Subject: Good book on understanding MONITORS?
Date: 21 Jan 93 03:13:14 GMT
Followup-To: sci.electronics
Distribution: na
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology

Does anyone know of a good book on MONITORS ...
a basic description of X-Y, vector, RGB monitors and what
terms like Sync, composite negative mean 

Also, can any JAMMA pcb plug  into a JAMMA ready cabinet?!  How
does one find out whether the monitor in the cabinet can be used
for that specific game?


gt4695b@prism.gatech.edu (billy liu, sir~timer)
bliu@csa3.lbl.gov        (sir~timer incarnate)

"if 2:=1 and 1:=0, then prove that i'm the pope."  Bertrand Russell.
                                    ...
-- 
LIU,MING CHUN
Georgia Institute of Technology, Atlanta Georgia, 30332
uucp:	  ...!{decvax,hplabs,ncar,purdue,rutgers}!gatech!prism!gt4695b
Internet: gt4695b@prism.gatech.edu bliu@ux5.lbl.gov
From: srgxnbs@grace.cri.nz
Newsgroups: sci.electronics
Subject: RE: Auto "tow" sensor idea needed
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 93 01:25:42 GMT
Organization: Industrial Research Ltd., New Zealand.
NNTP-Posting-Host: grv.grace.cri.nz

>Anybody have any bright ideas?  I was thinking of something that
>would kind of react to a change in tilt.  Maybe something that would 
>automatically level out when I parked on a hill, but would trigger
>at the faster lifting of the vehicle by a tow truck.
> 
>Or maybe there's a better way of detecting a towing attempt?
> 

what about a pressure sensor/switch which detects when the suspension
is unloaded?
From: slmdj@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: sci.electronics
Subject: Printer question in PADS... :-(
Date: 21 Jan 93 15:57:53 GMT
Organization: Utah State University

Another question, while I'm on a roll :-)
In PADS (logic or PCB), when I start up I get the message flashed on the top of
the screen "Printer output redirected to ..../logfil.err"  Then, when I try to
print a schematic I have drawn up, I get no response from the printer. :-(  I
have run the setup program and selected the correct printer (NEC P5200, I
believe) but it still doesn't do what I need!   Any suggestions would be
_greatly_ appreciated...

Thanks,
-- 
********************************************************************************
      Paul Cowley      * ..."It's easier said than done."   And if you don't 
   ==EE Undergrad==    * believe it, try proving that it's easier done than
 Utah State University * said and you'll find that 'it's easier said that "it's
  C/A1C  CAP Utah Wing * easier done than said" than it is done.'  Which really
   slmdj@cc.usu.edu    * proves that it's easier said than done.
********************************************************************************
From: colu@hp850.mbari.org (Luke Coletti)
Newsgroups: sci.electronics
Subject: Re: Pyrotechnics
Date: 26 Jan 93 17:39:25 GMT
Organization: Monterey Bay Aquarium Research Institute


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    The use of computer control for the firing of aerial shells has already
  been done and is sold commercially. The company is Pyrodigital Consultants
  in Pebble Beach, Ca. A more unlikely place to have a "pyro shop" I can't
  imagine, yet since it's in my backyard I was glad to hear of it. The system
  is controlled using a PC and is kept in sync with a musical program via time
  code on a second audio track. It is more work than you can imagine to do the
  scripting for the firing in relation to the music. Samples for each different
  shell type "have to be" tested to determine the time from ignition to burst;
  a timer and photo-optic detector are used. This is hand fed into the master
  scripting program as a prefire offset. When it all works and the bursts are
  in time with the music it is truly awesome. I can remember one occasion where
  the finale was scripted to "Eye of the Tiger" the aerial bombs (6" flash
  powder shells) perfectly created a sustained roll of thunder in sync with
  the music that left me with my jaw hanging. There was of course another
  occasion not so memorable, the units that fire the squibs are each addressed
  over a differential communications line with each unit being manually set
  to a particular address. Well as it turned out the units that were to fire
  the finale were addressed wrong and the entire finale went up only a quarter
  into the show. That sure wouldn't have happened with a hand fired show.


Luke Coletti

MBARI
Monterey Bay Aquarium Research Institute
Newsgroups: sci.electronics
From: rfc@allegra.att.com (Robert F. Casey)
Subject: Re: 110V -> 220/240Vconversion for appliances
Keywords: Voltage conversion
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories, Murray Hill, NJ
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 00:46:56 GMT

In article <1993Jan26.173142.1904@tc.fluke.COM> dbc@tc.fluke.COM (Dan Carson) writes:
>In article <7263@m1.cs.man.ac.uk> apm@kaa.ee.umist.ac.uk (Paul Marriott) writes:
>>Also, is it possible to wire two outlets in series to get 220V? Or is
>>that asking for trouble!?
>>
>Seriously, I'd sell everything and buy 110V stuff after you move.
>(P.S. -- Just in case someone would try it - don't wire two outlets in
>series.  That is asking for trouble of the sparks and fire variety.)

If you have two 110V outlets, one on one phase, the other on a phase
180 degrees away, then you could access 220V.  wire one 3 prong male
plug connecting to the HOT pin, and connect that to one of the hot
pins of the European female 220V outlet.  Do not connect the neutral 
wire pin of the male to anything!  Wire the second 3 prong male 
connecting to the HOT pin, and connect that to the OTHER power pin on
the European 220V outlet.  Connect the European safety ground (if there
is one) to the safety ground of one or both safety grounds of the
3 prong male 110V plugs.  Check your work for safety, then plug in
the plugs into the selected outlets, then measure the European female
to see if you are getting 220V.  

Be sure to use wire heavy enough to carry all the current the outlets
are capable of feeding (determined by what size breakers are in use)
Breakers, for more safety, should be mechanically linked, so an
overload on one outlet circuit will shut both off.
and wire suitable for the physical abuse the envirnment can give.
Use 2/14 stranded cord for example.  
            ___________
  male     /           |                male
  plug 1  h| |n        o o-------h| |n plug 2  
            o-----------g----------o
          ground                 ground

     both |n's: no connection!

**I make no statement that this is thought of as being safe by the
fire dept, or electrical inspectors**!  Proceed at your own risk!!
Newsgroups: sci.electronics
From: pjh@mccc.edu (Pete Holsberg)
Subject: Re: VCR Tuner Partially Inoperative!!
Organization: The College On The Other Side Of Route One
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 19:58:53 GMT

In article <1993Jan19.105250.4590@donau.et.tudelft.nl> wout@dutentb.et.tudelft.nl (Wout Serdijn) writes:
=Dear Pete,
=
=So my suggestion would be: find your PLL circuit and try to find out if some-
=thing is wrong with it, measure the control voltage (the one that controls
=the oscillator frequency), try to heat it up with your hand or a fohn ( a few
=channels may come back or vanish completely), etc.

Thanks. I'll try that. However, I get channels below *and* above the
band that's missing, so I wonder if the "no high channel" solutions are
valid here.
Newsgroups: sci.electronics
From: lan_lada@rcvie.co.at (Marino Ladavac)
Subject: Re: Tube Amplifier Design Questions
Organization: Alcatel Austria Informatik R&D, Vienna, Austria
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 14:38:48 GMT



Hi. I find this thread very interesting, since I'm trying to build a (small)
tube amplifier myself. But, the US type tubes are generally unavailable
(or very expensive) in Europe. Does anyone know where can some info be
found on ECC 83, ECC 82, EL 84, and EL 34 - what are the US equivalents?

Furthermore, could anyone suggest some literature on the output transformer
calculation? Thanks.

Alby.
From: garland@ohstpy.mps.ohio-state.edu
Newsgroups: sci.electronics
Subject: Re: Recommendations for Digital Multimeter
Date: 25 Jan 93 20:54:31 EST
Distribution: usa
Organization: The Ohio State University, Department of Physics

In article <C1FqqK.2vt@taligent.com>, kayshav_dattatri@taligent.com (Kayshav Dattatri) writes:
> I want to buy a digital multimeter for my hobby set. I have seen models
> from Philips, Funa etc. I'm willing to spend about $100.
> 
> Can the gurus recommend a good model and source to get it cheap (mail order or
> in the SFO bay area market).
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Kayshav
> Kayshav_Dattatri@taligent.com
> 

I recommend the Beckman series of DMM's. There are several in the $100 price
range. I've found them to be very rugged, and they have large LCD displays with
good contrast -- better than the Fluke line in that regard.  Also, a point
frequently overlooked, is that they have extremely long battery life -- about
x10 longer than the Fluke's, and they're also well-shielded against rf.
Newsgroups: sci.electronics
Subject: new bigger 8185 ram ????
From: jeff@redgum.ucnv.edu.au (j. pethybridge)
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1993 01:45:28 GMT
Organization: University College of Northern Victoria (Bendigo)

Newsgroups: sci.elecrtonics
Subject: new bigger 8185 ram ???
Summary: 
Followup-To: 
Distribution: world
Organization: University College of Northern Victoria (Bendigo)
Keywords: 

	'MORNING ALL'
	Has any one seen a new bigger low power cmos ram with the
address latch built in.

	p.s  Intel in Australia want $45 +tax for the old 8185.

				Thankx  jeff
From: jerry@olivea.atc.olivetti.com (Jerry Aguirre)
Newsgroups: sci.electronics
Subject: Re: CATV Block Converter Wanted
Date: 25 Jan 93 22:59:33 GMT
Organization: Olivetti ATC; Cupertino CA, USA

In article <ofGiErO00WC0Q2pWNR@andrew.cmu.edu> geek+@CMU.EDU (Brian E. Gallew) writes:
>Maybe I'm being excessively stupid, but is there anything a Radio
>Shack converter can do that a "cable ready" VCR can't?  (I realize
>that the original poster had a screwy TV setup, but I want to know for
>my own purposes!)

I use one in spite of having a "cable ready" TV and VCR.  The local cable
company supplies two cables, A and B.  Thus there are two channel 2-n.
They supply a mechanical switch to toggle between them.  The TV has an
accesory switch so I can select between A and B cable (and potentially
two more sources).

But my VCR does not support two cable inputs.  So, I use the block
converter to shift the B channels into UHF and feed them into the UHF
input of the VCR.  Thus the VCR can tune the A 2-13 normally and the
B 2-13 as UHF channels.  I miss out on some of the cable only channels
this way but they are usually the scrambled ones so I don't care much.

The real down side is finding out what channel from the guide, using the
cable chart to translate to the cable channel, and then using the band
converter chart to figure out the UHF equivelent.  In practive we have
the important stations memorized.
Newsgroups: sci.electronics
From: laird@pasture.ecn.purdue.edu (Kyler Laird)
Subject: Re: Recording sound on chip
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network
Date: 26 Jan 93 02:39:03 GMT

Screw all of the chips - buy a kit/complete module.  You've probably got
better things to do than redesign a "cheap" kit.  These kits are
amazingly common now.

The first few I stumbled across just now.

	Electronics 123
	800-669-4406

	DVM-5805 : digital, <=5 messages, 32 seconds		$49.95
	DVM-2804 : uses EPROM, needs special programmer		$49.95



	Vantage Point Technologies
	800-272-1357

	18106 : 16 seconds, DRAM				$29.95


	GET-TECH
	914-564-5347

	AudioQ218 : 218 seconds, <=8 messages, 4 sample rates
			4MB RAM, preassembled, speaker output	$149.00

Have fun!

--kyler
Newsgroups: sci.electronics
From: lowry@src.honeywell.com (Dave Lowry)
Subject: Stack (LIFO) Chips?
Organization: Honeywell Systems & Research Center
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 20:54:28 GMT

I'm looking for a LIFO (stack) chip.  Does anyone know if this exists?  I've
found plenty of FIFOs, but no LIFOs.  The IC Master has no listing for LIFO.
I could build one out of lots of shift registers, but would prefer an
integrated solution.  Thanks.

-Dave

lowry@src.honeywell.com
From: ifaq570@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Allen Kitchen)
Newsgroups: sci.electronics
Subject: Re: What is "pikal" solvent?
Date: 22 Jan 1993 21:54:28 GMT
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin
NNTP-Posting-Host: happy.cc.utexas.edu

In article <1jnk7rINNou@leela.CS.ORST.EDU> bailey@atlantis.CS.ORST.EDU (Kirk Bailey) writes:
>I'm trying to find out what sort of solvent this is, and who makes it.
>		bailey@jacobs.cs.orst.edu

	Sounds like the stuff they use to remove the salt and phosphates from
the surface of gerkins, in order to make Lite (tm) Pickles for dieters.
It is similar to the "caufee" solvent, which as everyone knows, is used to
remove caffeine from ground-up coffee beans.  The caffeine is then taken from
the solvent and added to childrens drinks...


			: )   in case you didn't figure it out.

	Sorry, I have no serious answer.  I hope you get a reply.  But this one
was just too good to pass up.
Allen Kitchen
ifaq570@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu


Newsgroups: sci.electronics
From: markz@ssc.com (Mark Zenier)
Subject: Re: making 110V into 220v
Organization: SSC, Inc.,  Seattle, WA
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 05:28:00 GMT
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]

Darin Latimer (dlatimer@iris4.chem.arizona.edu) wrote:
: In article <C19oyE.GnM@panix.com>, dannyb@panix.com (Daniel Burstein) writes:
: |> Heavy duty appliances, such as electrical dryers, stoves, ovens, or
: |> (large) air conditioners will run on 220V.  They get this by feeding both
: |> legs of the electrical supply (which are 110V in opposite phase) to the
:                                             ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
:    Again, usually three legs at 120V each, 120 degrees out of phase with 
:    respect to each other.

NO.  In this residential neighborhood, the distribution transformers are
fed with a single phase and have a center tapped winding.  So the two 
phases are 180 degrees apart.  

In an industrial area, or on a campus, that would not necessarily be
true.

Mark Zenier  markz@ssc.wa.com  

26 kV, trees, above ground wiring and 95 MPH wind storms don't mix.