From: bjgaed@bb1t.monsanto.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Two Weird VWs---Help!
Date: 10 Sep 92 07:11:56 CST
Organization: Monsanto Company, St. Louis, MO

In article <92253.141959IDJMW@ASUACAD.BITNET>, <IDJMW@ASUACAD.BITNET>Jo Namio (The Hippie) writes:

Thought I would add some more opinions, in case we haven't confused 
you enough. 8{)

> are fine. Have had brakes bled and that didn't help. One mechanic
> says it's master cylinder replacement time. Another tells me he can
> adjust them and I'll be fine, for $15.00. (Very tempting to take the
> $15 job and run, but very safe?)

Advice from others is right on target.  Whoever bled the brakes 
*should have* adjusted them at the same time.  Always have these done 
together.  As for safety, while adjusting the brakes the mechanic will 
check the linings and let you know if they are getting thin.  Since 
you had them replaced recently (a '66 would have brake *shoes* all 
around; *pads* are only for disc brakes) an adjustment should do it.  
One or more seriously leaking wheel cylinders could cause this too.  
Keep an eye on your brake fluid.  The reservoir is a little squarish 
plastic tank in the front snoot, either under the spare tire (*not* 
the windshield washer tank) or, more likely, on the side of the 
luggage area.  If you notice the level of brake fluid dropping, top it 
up and get all four wheels and the master cylinder checked *now*.

> Second Beetle problem, when starting from a stop, in first gear only, unless
> clutch pedal is released very carefully, there is a shudder. Most of the time,

The "clutch cable tube" sounds fishy to me, but cheap enough.  I am 
sure that the person is right who said you have oil on your clutch 
disc.  Not only does this mean a new clutch disc (about $20 for the 
part and $280 for labor! 8{(    ) but that oil came from somewhere.  
Usually its the front crankshaft seal in the engine, but it may be the 
real seal in the transmission.  Be sure that whoever fixes the clutch 
fixes wherever the oil came from or you will be shuddering again in a 
couple of weeks.  Also, be sure to get a new release bearing at the 
same time.  Takes about 5 minutes and less than $10 for the part, but 
if you have to have it done some time in the future it will be another 
$200-$250 labor charge.  

Since the shuddering is mild you can drive it (carefully, like you 
said) for a while withoug harm, so shop around for the best price on 
this job:  new clutch disc, new release bearing, and fix whatever seal 
is throwing oil.

> As for the BUS..... only 20,000 miles on rebuilt engine. New starter. New
> battery. However, after driving from Phoenix to Tucson, the red light kept
> going on. Stopped, a nervous wreck, checked the oil, had a COke, and drove
> on again. Red light goes back off. Goes on. Goes off. On the way back from
> Tucson to Phoenix, begins lurching, but only at speed limit. Slowing down
> stops lurching. 

Now we're confused.  By "red light" do you mean the generator light, 
or the oil pressure light?  Somewhere around '67-'69 various models 
changed from gen.= red light and oil p. = green light to both lights 
being red.  If you mean generator, get the charging system checked and 
check the fan/generator/belt as per the other post.  If you mean oil 
pressure light, you have serious problems, like maybe the kid you 
bought it from didn't have the case linebored when the overhaul was 
done and you are suffering from low oil pressure.  *Never* drive a VW 
when this light comes on.  If you can't keep the light off by keeping 
your speed down then you have to stop and get the thing towed.

>Could this be caused by the minor valve adjustment
> the kid I bought it from says it needs?   

This could cause overheating, and the lurching would be consistent 
with overheating, or an exhaust valve starting to burn.

Take it in for a complete tuneup.  Valve adjustment, compression test, 
points, plugs, distributor rotor and cap, maybe even new spark plug 
wires, check charging system, adjust carb, clutch, bleed & adjust 
brakes.  This is some $$, but you have to have it done regularly on 
VW's.  This is also why most VW owners learn to at least do tuneups 
and oil changes; they can't afford to drive the beasts unless they 
supply the labor.  Get a copy of Muir's _How to Keep Your Volkswagen 
Alive_.  

> Moot point at the moment,
> since it now does not start. Ever since that monsoon rain the other
> weekend. Turns over, sounds fine, just doesn't kick in. I'm assuming this
> is just another one of those dumb Volks. things like moisture in the
> distributor cap.

My '69 beetle used to be the same way.  Had to remove two spark plugs 
and wipe them dry before it would start in damp weather.

> Jo Namio
> 
> PS) am putting off the psychedelic paint job on the Bus until its RUNNING

All Right, Baby!!!  Peace, Dope, Love!!!

-- 
--Electric Monk            (Bruce Gaede); 
                            e-mail: bjgaed@ccmail.monsanto.com

"...and then time started seriously to pass."
--Douglas Adams, _Dirk Gently's Holistic Detective Agency_
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw