HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: "Seeya, And I Wouldn't Wanna Be Ya" <MRJAIN@ucs.indiana.edu>
Subject: FOR SALE: VIPER 600 (BRAND NEW)
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 22:28:33 GMT

Hello,

	I sent out a mesage two weeks and got offers but no real concrete offers
so today I am going to sell the alarm for the following:

		VIPER 600 $137.00 (including shipping) 
and all the accsesories.
  
Call me at 812.330.7911 to buy it or e-mail me

MANISH JAIN
From: rmf@bpdsun1.uucp (Rob Finley)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Using a separate battery:  Perfect Interface or Bat Isolator
Date: 8 Sep 92 16:30:45 GMT
Organization: Harris Allied Broadcast Div., Quincy, IL


Greetings:

I am needing to use a second battery (either that or enroll in
AAA auto saviors club).

I don't want a second alternator and reg.  I don't have mounting room
on the engine.


Some company made a box called the Perfect Interface.  Others, 
(such as Streetwires) make these heatsinked  devices called
battery isolators.

Anyone melt their car battery with this equipment?

If it isn't 1000% safe, I don't want it.

Any help would be appreciated.

Robert

-----
"We know what the reponse of the American people will be, and it's not
attractive.  They really do believe the Bill of Rights gave them unleaded
regular for $1.06 a gallon, and they better get it or, by God, they'll get
the bums out of Office."  -- Energy Secretary James Watkins on taxing energy.

quintro!bpdsun1!rmf@lll-winken.llnl.gov or uunet!tiamat!quintro!bpdsun1!rmf
From: gt0869a@prism.gatech.EDU (WATERS,CLYDE GORDON)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: ++1-800-SHERWOOD number out there???++
Date: 5 Sep 92 02:46:24 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology

In article <1992Sep4.101841.6754@spxtech.qc.ca> babineau@spxtech.qc.ca (Andre Babineau) writes:
>From article <1992Aug31.181843.17971@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>, by mgarber@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Max D Garber):
>> The place where I bought my Sherwood amps does not sell them anymore-is there a
>Why do you want the phone number of a company which is manufacturing
>real cheap stock!!!
>They are so bad that your local dealer refuses to sell them any longer.

Wait a minute- Sherwood is not really THAT bad. And their amps certainly 
give a lot of bang for the buck. We sold Sherwood at the store I used to
work at, and we actually had a lower failure rate overall than the Sony
stuff we sold! The BP series (the silver ones with the fans) seem to be
about the most reliable amps for the power and price. They often do not
quite reach their rated power, but they do sound a lot cleaner than other
similarly priced amps (ie Radion, Majestic, etc).

I make no claims that they "sound better than Alpine" or anything similar;
however Sherwood is a da** sight better than many things in the same
price range, including a lot of major brands.

Regards,
Gordon.

-- 
WATERS,CLYDE GORDON-Georgia Institute of Technology Atlanta Ga 30332 
******<LANGUAGE IS A VIRUS! - Laurie Anderson-Home of the Brave>******* 
uucp:	  ...!{decvax,hplabs,ncar,purdue,rutgers}!gatech!prism!gt0869a
Internet: gt0869a@prism.gatech.edu
From: cccsims@underdog.ucdavis.edu (Jonathan Sims)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: What to put in a 92 T-Bird?
Date: 11 Sep 92 22:37:02 GMT
Organization: Computing Services, UC Davis
Originator: cccsims@underdog.ucdavis.edu



   I'm looking for repsonses from people that have T-Birds and what they've
had success installing in them.  The limits I have are: I don't want to
cut holes in the rear deck and and want to keep it all under 1500$.


Jonathan Sims
jlsims@ucdavis.edu or
cccsims@underdog.ucdavis.edu

92 T-Bird LX V-8: "Nothing like a car that gets 17 MPG!"
From: burens@4ccvw101.scg.hac.com (Mark Burens)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: FAQ
Date: 15 Sep 92 21:09:48 GMT
Reply-To: burens@hacgate.UUCP (Mark Burens)
Distribution: la
Organization: Hughes Aircraft Co., El Segundo, CA


If this newsgroup has a FAQ, would someone be as so kind to
direct me to it so as I won't tie up bandwidth asking novice
questions?  
                                   Thanks

Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: bell@asdsun.larc.nasa.gov (John Bell)
Subject: Re: Install Q's
Organization: NASA Langley Research Center, Hampton, VA  USA
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 18:02:35 GMT

In article <Kevin_Bailey-140992134607@msdmac36.msd.anl.gov>, Kevin_Bailey@qmgate.anl.gov (Kevin Bailey) writes:
|> HI folks, 
|> 
|> ( questions deleted - they are already answered in other posts)
!> 
|> How hard is particle board to work with?  I gather screews and glue are
|> better than nails.  Can you bevel the edges or am I limited to 90 deg
|> joints?
|> 
|> THANKS-
|> I'm sure I'll think of more later...
|> Kevin
|>

  I just wanted to comment on the particle board question - are you talking about what the lumber yard calls "particle board" (yellowish color, made of
chunks of wood or unidentified wood-like substances, chips or breaks easily), or MDF (dark brown, smooth surfaces)? DON'T use particle board, it's one of the worst materials to use for subwoofers (I assume that's what you want it for) as it is not very dense and barely holds a screw. It is cheap tho, so a lot of manufacturers use it for cheap quality enclosures. MDF is very dense and can be worked like a hardwood. When it is cut it leaves a smooth, straight edge, unlike particle board. Good results can als

o be obtained using 3/4" birch plywood (expensive) or even luan plywood (cheap, and not as good as MDF).
In any case, you can expect to go through a lot of power tool blades.

  There was a fairly long thread in the last few days in one of the rec.audio.* newsgroups about MDF vs. particle board. It's worth checking out.

  BTW, always screw 'n glue, don't use nails, they won't hold.

------

John Bell
NASA Langley Research Center
My opinions are my own (obviously)
bell@haloe.larc.nasa.gov
804-864-7121
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: nakayama@tiger.sri.com (Dave Nakayama)
Subject: Mounting a CD Changer in a Civic
Originator: nakayama@tiger.sri.com
Organization: SRI International, Menlo Park, CA
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 92 17:23:52 GMT

I recently installed (last weekend) a Sony CD Controller head unit and 4
Infinity speakers, and to my relief, it works and sounds great.  Now I'm gonna
try to tackle the CD Changer.  I understand that it's pretty much standard to 
mount the changer in the trunk, since there's not much other space in the
'92 Civic Sedan to place it.  A friend of mine said to route the Unilink cable
under the carpeting along the side. I have a couple of questions:

1. The floor panel that covers the carpeting edge doesn't seem to have any
screws visible.  How can I get under the carpet?

2. If I mount it into the trunk, where can I place it?
It seems that I can place it along the side, in the trunk lid, or in the
tire compartment(which has extra space).  Which is best, or should I be
mounting it somewhere else?

3. How do I mount it?  Will I need to be drilling some major holes?  Does the
mounting hardware come with the changer?  

Please post replies, or e-mail me at nakayama@tiger.sri.com and I will post a 
summary.    Thanks,  -Dave

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dave Nakayama                                     david_nakayama@qm.sri.com
Research Engineer                                    nakayama@tiger.sri.com
Systems Development Division
SRI International, Menlo Park, CA
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: art@icdi70.compu.com (Art LeKoff)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: WANTED: Advice on sound system for Saturn
Date: 13 Sep 92 03:12:01 GMT
Organization: Art's House

cjm9321@hertz.njit.edu (The InfoMan) writes:

> In article <BtnuIx.nI@news.cso.uiuc.edu> mvincow@s.psych.uiuc.edu (Michelle V
> >I am buying a new Saturn and trying to figure out whether
> >to purchase the (Delco) AM/FM with cassette, or the 
> >(supposedly Alpine) AM/FM with CD player.  The CD player
> >comes with a speaker upgrade.  
> 
> 		DON'T DO IT!!

Which idea?

> >Has anyone heard these systems?  The CD player is $555 and
> >the cassette is $180.  I am trying to figure out whether I
> >should go with their system or get something installed
> >afterwards.  They do not have a CD player at the Saturn
> >dealership that I can listen to.
> 
> 	I would just get the cheapest radio you could get. Because you
> want something in there when you sell the car.

I would have to ask Michelle which is more important, sound quality or
price. If a person is asking this type of question they generally have 
little or no installation knowledge.

> 	I would then get an after market radio and speakers. Try doing
> it yourself if you want to otherwise get it done by an installer.

See above. I would suggest a 10 disc CD changer with the cassette. It sounds
like she probably has both formats. This combination would give her the best
of both worlds.

Art

PS - Speakers could be upgraded later...

-----------------------------------------------------------------
| Art LeKoff             |   Internet: art@icdi70.compu.com
| 3224 Lisa Turn         | Compu$erve: 72460.2024@CompuServe.Com
| Bensalem, PA 19020     |    Ma Bell: 215/757-3126
From: gt0869a@prism.gatech.EDU (WATERS,CLYDE GORDON)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: subwoofer environments
Keywords: subwoofer placement vs. sound and performance?
Date: 5 Sep 92 03:09:24 GMT
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology

In article <BtwwoF.IA1@acsu.buffalo.edu> v523d85n@ubvmsd.cc.buffalo.edu (Robert C Maggio) writes:
>Questions:
>How does the placement of a subwoofer affect its sound and performance?

You can get output reinforcement by firing subs into the rear walls of cars.
Otherwise, it is possible to increase or reduce the occurance of standing
waves by moving subs around in a car. Unfortunately, this is trial and 
error since no one apparently has made anything to predict this stuff.
The length of the interior also seems to be proportional to the ease 
of getting extreme low bass output. (fortunately my car is pretty long from
the woofer cone to the listening position !)

>   volumes of the trunks of two cars affect the sound quality; how sensitive 
>are free-air subs to trunk volume differences?  Will vibration from the drivers
>affect my rear window and/or third brakelight at all?

Freeair subs load in the trunk just about identically to a sealed box,
only leaks change things (sealing up leaks can increase low bass output by 
3 dB! I know from experience!) So a bigger trunk is a bogger box, and so 
on. The speaker responds normally to this. (bigger usually means lower
bass frequency response, unless the box is too big ie the total Q gets
too small. This almost never happens with freeair woofers, since the Qts 
is usually over .5 or so.)


>
>Part Two:
>What about when the drivers are mounted on a baffle against the back seat in
>the trunk?  How does having the sub fire into the seatback affect its 
>performance?  Does the resistance of the seat to air flow cause problems not

Loading a sub behind a seat can do 2 things. 
1) it acts like a kludge low -pass filter. I have incorporated this
as stages in a composite low-pass crossover for the sub, and it helped.

2) it changes the acoustic load on the driver front, changing the effective
driver parameters and performance. Sometimes drivers can do some strange 
stuff, like not go low or not produce loud output. Usually, fabric seats
with thin padding (springs+padding as opposed to solid foam) do not 
affect the sub very much.


>Part Three:
>Seat or deck, which produces the best sound quality?

I have had better luck getting low bass and better quality bass by routing
the bass output out of the rear of the rear deck, either by mounting the 
drivers as far back in the deck as feasible, or slot loading them, a
practice I am still investigating, since it seems to lower the rolloff
point to a significant degree. The air in the slot seems to act as an
acoustic mass, lowering resonance and raising Q or something similar.

Regards,
Gordon.
 


-- 
WATERS,CLYDE GORDON-Georgia Institute of Technology Atlanta Ga 30332 
******<LANGUAGE IS A VIRUS! - Laurie Anderson-Home of the Brave>******* 
uucp:	  ...!{decvax,hplabs,ncar,purdue,rutgers}!gatech!prism!gt0869a
Internet: gt0869a@prism.gatech.edu
From: Alan_Boisclair@mindlink.bc.ca (Alan Boisclair)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: PerfectBox???!!!
Date: 7 Sep 92 08:24:29 GMT
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada
Distribution: world

To Whom It May Concern:
I get my updates for Perfbox, as well as any other Audio/computer program from
a BBS called AUDIO PROJECTS; I believe it is connected with MADISOUND SPEAKERS.
The BBS number is 1-608-836-9473.
--By the way, the latest shareware version of Perfbox has been uploaded to
MINDLINK!'s MSDOS.Demo subdirectory area for your consideration.
From: ssloter@gdfwc3.UUCP (Scott Sloter)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Jeep Wrangler - Pullout or detachable face
Date: 14 Sep 92 18:23:31 GMT
Reply-To: gdfwc3!ssloter@uunet.uu.net
Organization: General Dynamics, Fort Worth Division


Hi.  I have a Jeep Wrangler Soft Top and I am looking into putting a stereo
into it.  I have a piece of junk pull-out in it right now with factory 4x6's
int the dash and some 6x9's in boxes behind the front seats.  Go 45 MPH and
the music can't be heard.  Therefore, I want something new and louder.
Unfortunately, I need to be careful with what I pick because the Jeep is wide
open to the world.  I am considering both a pull-out and a detachable face
unit.  I would like some input.  Are detachable face units stolen much without
the face?  Is it easy to get a replacement face if the unit is stolen?  Being
exposed to the elements all of the time, can a detachable face unit
(electrically) deal with it?  Are there any units (pull out or detachable)
that beep at you if you turn the power off (by the ignition switch) notifying
you that you need to take it out.  (sometimes I forget).  

What about speakers, amp, etc for the JEEP.  Any ideas or comments would be
greatly appreciated.  I'm not really interested in taking up the little space
I have in the jeep with big speaker boxes and what ever I do has got to be
able to handle rain.  I live in an apartment with no covered parking.  I've
considered redoing the center console.  

Talk to me......  Thanks a bunch...... 
--
   _____________________________________________________________________
  | Internet:  gdfwc3!ssloter@central.sun.com                    Scott  |
  | Internet:  sloter@gdwest.gd.com                              Sloter |
  \------------------------------------------ Gig'em Aggies '89 --------/
   \___________________________________________________________________/
From: n8846069@henson.cc.wwu.edu (Barry)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: CD players
Date: 14 Sep 92 05:59:13 GMT
Article-I.D.: henson.1992Sep14.055913.3059
Organization: Western Washington University

I am looking for a single disk CD unit.  Preferably without built-in
amplifier, but that's not totally neccessary.  At any rate, I'll
be using it with a seperate amp.

The two things that I absolutely want are:

- Removeable Slide-Out (This is easy to find)

- CD Cartridge (Not so easy to find)

CD changers are unnaceptable because they are too much of a pain to load
and upload.  And the non CD cartridge single players are too easy
to scratch discs with.

The only companies I have ever seen that offered CD Cartridge are
JVC and Blankpunt.  But alas, their new models seem to have moved totally
away from this.

Any suggestions?

-BarryB
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: jreiser@scott.skidmore.edu (jason reiser)
Subject: Re: CD Changer Sound Quality
Organization: Skidmore College, Saratoga Springs NY
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1992 20:56:01 GMT

kevins@eng.auburn.edu (Kevin Sullivan) writes:
> 
> I'm thinking of getting a CD changer for my 89 Plymouth Voyager.  
> It has the "premium" factory system with Infinity speakers, multiple 
> amps, etc. and sounds pretty good, so I don't want to mess with what's 
> already there.  I'd like to put the changer under the driver's seat.
> 
> Most changers I've seen have an RF modulator to play through the radio. 
> I just don't see how this can sound as good as running direct into the 
> amps.  The salespeople at the local shops say you can't tell the 
> difference.  Has anyone done a comparison?  Notice a difference?  If so, 
> please describe.  Also what's this I hear about changers scratching discs?
> If this is the case maybe I don't want one.

There is a discernable difference between a cd player through the rf
modulator and directly to a radio input or to the amps.  However, in a
stock system such as yours, it is unlikely that you will be able to
hear the difference.  If in the future you plan to upgrade the system
with new speakers, amps, etc., it might be worth considering the
direct connection right off the bat.  Supposedly you can connect the
changer with a controller directly to the din plug on the radio... it
requires an adaptor that a dealer should be able to make/acquire.
The difference sounds very much like the difference between
electrolytic capacitors and mylar or polypropylene ones  (for those
who are familiar with crossovers).  Like the
electrolytic caps, an FM modulator can lack significant production of
music above 15k hz.  However, it also decreases the volume and clarity
of music above about 12k or 13k hz.  Again, through your stock
infinity speakers I doubt this will be a discernable difference.  Also
keep in mind that most changer controllers with built in rf modulators
can be easily modified with RCA outputs so if after upgrading to a
more substancial sound system you notice a lack in the highs, you can
make this modification at that time.

> 
> Also what are the differences in sound quality in the different changers?  
> I can hear differences in home units and picked the NAD 5000 to replace 
> my old Technics that sounded like crap.  Unfortunately most shops around 
> here aren't set up to compare changers against one another, or direct 
> connect against RF modulated.

If you hook the changer directly to a paired controller with rca
outputs, the sound will be only as good as that unit.  For example,
you could use the new NAK changer that's well out of most budgets with
a Sony controller, but it will still sound only as good as the
original Sony changer at a fraction of the price.  And with the stock
set-up in your car... I doubt you'll see (or hear) any differences.
If you plan to upgrade to a tape deck with a built in controller, go
with the company that makes your favorite deck since that's where the
real differences lie.

> 
> Thanks,
> Kevin Sullivan
> 

No Problem.

				Jason Reiser
From: hhtra@usho21.hou281.chevron.com (T.M.Haddock)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Mail Order for Alpine
Keywords: I'm looking for a mail order source for Alpine products.
Date: 8 Sep 92 17:12:54 GMT
Organization: Chevron


  I've tried J&R, Crutchfield...  no luck.

  Does anyone have any experience with the Alpine 3566 amp?  With its
  6 ch mode of 4x30w and 2x60w or 5 ch mode of 4x30w and 1x160w, it
  seems like it would be a good choice for a front, rear & sub system.
 
  Thanks in advanced.

  Travis
From: mxl@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (marc.a.levy)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: speaker outputs -> pre-amp inputs
Date: 14 Sep 92 18:03:39 GMT
Organization: AT&T

In article <collin.716490590@angelo> collin@angelo.amd.com (Collin K. Ong) writes:
>I've seen this question posted many times on the net but have never seen
>it answered, so could somebody please please please answer it??!?
>
>How can you pad down the speaker outputs of a car deck that doesn't have
>pre-amp outputs so that they can be patched into the pre-amp inputs
>of a separate amp?  Exact circuit diagrams would be nice.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>

The most common and effective "Line Level Converters" are just
simple matching transformers with a small resistor network.
The more advanced one's use Variable Resistors to get a better
match.   Your best bet would be to just buy one!  They are
usualy about $15-$35 dollars, depending on the quality or the
components.  I belive Pheonix Gold has one for like $50, but I
have never tried it, so I dont know if it is worth it.

Marc.
From: cjm9321@hertz.njit.edu (The InfoMan)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: The Family Truckster's Boomin' System
Date: 8 Sep 92 15:42:42 GMT
Organization: New Jersey Institute of Technology, Newark, N.J.


	Hello Netland,

	I am posting this article as a Thank You Letter to all of you
that read, replied, and/or reposted to my articles.

	I am statisfied with my system (for now anyway) and I couldn't
have done it with your help. Thanks

	A brief description of my system:

		Kenwood 730 tuner
	which powers a pair of Pioneer 4x6" 3-way with Bass Blockers
	and Jensen 6x9" 3-way in seperate boxes

	One set of pre-outs is connected to a PAC subwoofer crossover
	which then goes to Hifonics Boltar
	that powers to a pair of Hifonics Pro 12" subwoofers

	A Kenwood C600 is also connected to the 730.

	Where is all of this, you ask?

	In a '87 Pontiac Safari Wagon (Yes, the Family Truckster)


					Thanks again,

			have fun with your systems,

-- 
M A D E   .   . .---. .---.    \  Buy U.S.A. products,  /    xxxxx ==========
  I N     |   |  \    |___|    <     It's YOUR job.     >    xxxxx ========== 
 T H E    |   |    \  |   |    <  Christopher J. Massa  >    ================
-------   `---' `---' '   `    / cjm9321@hertz.njit.edu \    ================
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: chenh@neptune.ecs.csus.edu (H. Philip Chen)
Subject: Re: Lexus SC300
Organization: California State University, Sacramento
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 92 22:24:20 GMT

eliot@lanmola.engr.washington.edu (eliot) writes:
>wwein@scott.skidmore.edu (warren wein) writes:
>
>crossposted and follow up'd to rec.audio.car
>
>[about the Soob SVX]
>>The stereo is
>>excellent, though I don't think that its 80 watts can even come close
>>to Lexus' 280 watts.
>
>Are car stereo power ratings measured under the same set of conditions
>as home audio?  i.e. X watts RMS from 20 to 20KHz with no more than
>rated THD.  If not, are they measured under some common set of
>conditions?  e.g. external power supply with infinite power, X watts
>at 1KHz, 100% THD measured just before transistors vaporize.  :-) :-)

It all depends on which car stereo.  For factory stereos, the answer
is... it's most probably the music/peak power.  The real/actual RMS power
will be much lower than what they say.

For aftermarket stereos, the answer is... it's much better.  The power 
outputs are most often quoted in RMS, into 4 ohm loads; most often
with a 20-20,000 Hz bandwidth.  That's _based_ (not necesarily following)
the EIA-490 guideline.  There was another EIA-517 proposal (not sure 
if it was finally adopted or not; those manufacturers can't seem to 
decide, for all sorts of reasons).  EIA is Electronic Industry Association;
made up of various manufacturers.

I believe the home stereos specs/ratings are regulated by the FTC 
(Federal Trade Commission).  The EIA's car stereo "division" got their
words from the home stereo guidelines.  (Can't use the same words
because the car stereo scene is quite different from the home one.
Take for example the 8 vs 4 ohm thing (and also the 2 & 1 ohm thing).
Also the multi-amp and crossover setups.  (And people don't drag their 
homes down to sound-off contests.)


The car stereo scene (as in getting involved "seriously") only picked-up
in the last few years; it's still a pretty new field.  Many things have 
not been resolved yet.

There was a discussion on this subject in the Jan/Feb 92 issue of the 
Car Stereo Review.  It's probably a good reading material if netters are 
interested.  It touched on the technical, "legal" and political sides 
regarding the EIA, the various manufacturers and their specs/numbers.



Cheers,

-phil
From: hhtra@usho21.hou281.chevron.com (T.M.Haddock)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Install Q's
Date: 15 Sep 92 22:54:55 GMT
Organization: Chevron


  Thanks John.

  I was all geared up to get a sheet of that yellow stuff this weekend.
  When I asked the guy at Home Depot if that was MDF, he said "Yep".
  He must have thought I meant - Mostly Dust & Fibers.