HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jason@lanai.cs.ucla.edu (Jason Rosenberg)
Subject: Re: Does grounding the sump work?
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 92 22:26:09 GMT

sh240031@wvnvms.wvnet.edu writes:

>Igor@uicu.edu writes:
>		Is grounding the sump as good as grounding the tank?

>This past weekend I put this to a test.  First, I measured the voltage between
>my ground electrode in the tank and the ground at the outlet to be 74.3 volts.
>next, I removed the ground from the tank and placed it tn the sump and once
>again measured the voltage between the ground and the electrode and found it to
>be the same 74.3 volts.  The electrode remained in the sump.

I'm a little confused.  Why isn't the voltage at or near 0 volts?  I am 
assuming you have an electrode that is directly wired to the ground screw
in your outlet.

It would be a nice result, however, if you could get away with grounding a
tank in the sump...



-- 
Jason Rosenberg                           Computer Science Department
jason@cs.ucla.edu                         University of California
{uunet,rutgers,ucbvax}!ucla-cs!jason      Los Angeles, CA  90024
-- 
Jason Rosenberg                           Computer Science Department
jason@cs.ucla.edu                         University of California
{uunet,rutgers,ucbvax}!ucla-cs!jason      Los Angeles, CA  90024
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: krystek@alcor.bms.com (Stanley Krystek)
Subject: Re: Doctor X Pet Center
Organization: Bristol-Myers Squibb, Macromolecular Modeling
	<1992Sep4.150808.25732@cbnewsm.cb.att.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 14:22:57 GMT


My brother worked at a Doctor X Pet Center in Fishkill, NY.  When he was the
person in charge of small animals the place was orderly and clean.  The sales
help (mostly high school) were tarined in animal care and were rewarded not just
by number of sales but by how much they tried to keep the place neet and clean.

Since this is a chain of pet stores the fish are not usually owed by the store,
but the arrangement is the store gets a percentage of fish sold, so in most of 
the stores they make the least amount of money from selling the tropical fish,
the do well on dog sales and equipment sales.  Since they work on a comission 
basis there is little reward for cleaning up the tanks unless the individual 
management at a store institutes such a program.  Many stores have a person 
who comes in once or twice a week to take care of the tanks.  We all know they 
need daily care.  

Articles to the editor in your local paper would bring the store under the public
eye.....think about it...

stan

--
<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>==*==<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
<>                                                                           <>
<>     .-----.      Stanley R. Krystek, Jr., Ph.D.               .-----.     <>
<>    / \   / \     Bristol-Myers Squibb Pharmaceutical         / \   / \    <>
<>   /   \ /   \    Research Institute                         /   \ /   \   <>
<>   ----- -----    Department of Macromolecular Modeling      ----- -----   <>
<>   \   / \   /    P.O. Box 4000    Room H.3812               \   / \   /   <>
<>    \ /   \ /     Princeton, N.J.  08543-4000                 \ /   \ /    <>
<>     `-----'                                                   `-----'     <>
<>                  (609) 252-4100  FAX: (609) 252-6030                      <>
<>                  INTERNET:  krystek@bms.com                               <>
<>                                                                           <>
<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>==*==<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: wong@fraser.sfu.ca (Sam S. Wong)
Subject: Re: Painted Glass Fish
Organization: Simon Fraser University, Burnaby, B.C., Canada
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 19:27:47 GMT

satilley@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu writes:



>She said that whether or not they quit selling them, there wuld still be
>dealers.  I wasn't very good in economics, but supply and demand says that if
>demand goes down, the supply will, too.

Supply doesn't depend on demand.  If demand goes down, price goes down.
Remember supply and demand curves?  The Y axis is price.  If the D curve
shifts down, P decreases.  

Anyhow, since there is no law against selling Painted Glass fish, I don't think
anyone has the right to harass pet shops that sell them. 
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
From: krogers@javelin.sim.es.com (K. Rogers)
Subject: [M][R] Coral spawning report
Keywords: coral spawning
Reply-To: krogers@javelin.sim.es.com
Organization: Evans & Sutherland Computer Corp., Salt Lake City, Utah
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 16:01:51 GMT

I had a coral spawn last night.  It is difficult to tell which one but
I'm pretty sure it was the "metallic mushroom" coral.  I don't have a
latin binomial for them.  There are 4, originally 2 but one reproduced
asexually by spliting into three pieces about a year ago.  They're all
about 6" across and are flesh colored with a metallic green sheen on
the top surfaces of the discs.  There are various lumps and nubs over
the surface as well.

Particulars: approx 100-300 yellowish tan to beige (how's that for a
difinitive color :) spheres which are a little less than 1mm in
diameter.  The company microscope is locked up today so I've only been
able to look at them through an el-cheapo 30x pen scope.  At that
power they look like totally undifferentiated spheres.

The tank was one night past full moon with ~20 minutes between dusk
lights out and "moonrise".  They were emitted 5 minutes before dusk
ended.  Water temp was 78F, SG 1.022, diel is 11 hours.  I'm entering
"winter" at this time and am droping water temp and diel period.  The
diel is about bottomed out at 11 hours which it will hover around for
another month or so.  Water temp lags diel change by a few weeks.  I'm
shooting for ~74F but the temps don't seem to be droping as rapidly as
I'd like so I may only hit 76 for a low before it's time to increase
again.  Temps, diel and lunar values are all derived from an actual
location on the GBR.  I have no idea where these corals come from.  I
also don't know if only one or more than one participated in the
spawn.

I have no way to try and raise the planulae (which I expect they are,
not eggs)  at this time (I'm still remodelling the basement for a
decent fish/lab room) so I can't report on settling, etc.

-- 
Keith Rogers
krogers@javelin.sim.es.com
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: bruceg@Cadence.COM (Bruce Gustifson)
Subject: Re: Bicarbonate question
Organization: Cadence Design Systems, Inc.
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 22:16:14 GMT

In article <JOANM.92Aug25183113@moe.coe.uga.edu> joanm@moe.coe.uga.edu (Joan Maxfield UCNS) writes:
>tank and left the males in the community tank.  The molly tank is
>filtered by a UGF only with frequent water changes.  The problen right
>now is the pH.  I cannot get it above 6!  I was using Bullseye 7.0 but
>leg!  So I switched to pH up/down. I have already used up half a
>bottle of pH up over the last several weeks and haven't put a dent in
>tap is right at 6.8- 7.0 so thats not the problem, I'm sure it's the


  I have a suggestion. If there is a lot of dirt in the gravel, water
changes are useless without cleaning it. I recommend cleaning the
gravel thouroughly in conjunction with your water changes.
************************************************************************
"Would you believe it if you     |             MY KARMA
saw it with your own eyes?"      |           JUST RAN OVER
   Asked the woman               |            YOUR DOGMA
"That depends"                   |               -Dolly Rosicrution-
    Replied I                    |	
***********************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel)
Subject: One pass filters was (Re: Cannister Filter Question ?????????????????)
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 16:39:06 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division
Keywords: one pass

While I can not prove that a one pass filter is a reasonable thing to
have around I think it is safe to say that the output of the bio filter 
should feed the chem filter because there is less ammonia there then
any other point in the system. 

The ouput side of the bio filter is thus the correct place to put the 
chemical filter media because it will be protected from the bacterial 
growth which will render useless as a chemical filter.

Speculation About one pass bio filtering
----------------------------------------
Start by assuming the tank is cycled, oxygen rich, and the ammonia 
production has reached a near steady state.  At this point ammonia 
levels in the tank are not measurable with hobby grade test kits but 
is still high enough to support bacterial growth.  The bio filter may
be able to consume all the ammonia in the water that passes through it. 
The only ammonia not consumed is that which the bacteria could not latch 
on to.

The flow rate of water through the filter determines how long the 
ammonia is in the filter and thus how much of it can be consumed in one 
pass.  

The ammonia level may not be reduced to zero it should be lower, possibly
much lower, on the output side of the bio filter.  

In article <1992Sep9.010931.13388@wam.umd.edu> Jurassic Park as movie writes:
>In article <1992Sep2.202143.20235@col.hp.com> howardr@col.hp.com (Howard  
>Rebel) writes:
>> 	I like the term ONE PASS (may I borrow it)
>> 
>> 	Would not an oversized biofilter do just that.  Just how large
>> 	that would be I do not know.  But in a clean cycled tank...
>> 	it may not be too large to tolerate.  I do not have the 
>> 	equipment to measure the difference between the input and
>> 	output of my filters so I have no way of determining how
>> 	much filter it would take to do this.
>> 
>> Howard Rebel hpcsos.col.hp.com 
>
>"One pass" biofiltration seems highly unlikely to me.  After all, IF you  
>could get a bacterial colony that was concentrated enough to do this, then  
>after one pass through the filter the ammonia would be gone and they would  
>starve to death, right?  Sure, small amounts of ammonia etc would  
>constantly be produced, but in that case you would only have a very sparse  
>bacterial colony because they can't reproduce and survive if there's not  
>enough to eat.  
>
>jengagne.wam.umd.edu, a typically silent onlooker


-- 
Howard Rebel hpcsos.col.hp.com 

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: krogers@javelin.sim.es.com (K. Rogers)
Subject: [F][P] Any plants in a true Amazonian tank?
Reply-To: krogers@javelin.sim.es.com
Organization: Evans & Sutherland Computer Corp., Salt Lake City, Utah
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 23:08:18 GMT

I've been persuing The Complete Book of Aquarium Plants, by Allgayer
and Teton, and have a question for you plant tank mavens.

The book has a table (pg 13) of water parameters from around various
places in the world.  What struck me as odd was a CO2 level of 1 mg/l
for a black water river in Peru.  The carbonate hardness was 0.2
french degrees ~= 0.1 german degrees.  Further on in the book, where
they discuss regionally faithful aquaria, they state that a Amazonian
black water tank shouldn't have any submersed plants in it at all to
be truely accurate.  Given the lack of carbon from either CO2 or CO3
(via carbonates) I can see why this would be true.

My question is: are these guys telling it like it is?  Are all those
Echinodorus infested black water Amazonian tanks taking artistic
license?  I suppose such a tank owner could mumble about the tank
demonstrating flood conditions where normally emergent plants are
submersed; it's just flooded all year long...

The authors state a real Amazonian black water tank would have just
lots of rotting logs plus decaying leaves on a muddy bottom.  Doesn't
sound too attractive to me though beauty is in the eye of the
beholder, etc.
-- 
Keith Rogers
krogers@javelin.sim.es.com
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: shine@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (stephen.c.shine)
Subject: Re: Electric  cats?
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 14:45:51 GMT

In article mattk@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (matthew.kaufman) writes:
>And even for me, a known aficianado of fish that are less than 
> glamorous-looking
>(still working on that tank of black-chinned tilapias, albino 
> cynolebias whitei
>and aphyosemion franzwerneri) they're just a bit *too* ugly to consider for
>a tank. Brown cigars with beady little eyes that are dangerous. Uggh.

Why does the term "butt-ugly" leap to mind?

:-)

-- 
Steve Shine
AT&T Bell Labs    (908)949-8517
att!hoqub!shine   att!cbnewsh!shine
My opinions, not my employers, not my fault, blah, blah, blah.
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:7264 alt.aquaria:4952 sci.aquaria:1339
From: 2fubranch@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria,sci.aquaria
Subject: re: [M][R] Live Rock Farming
Date: 10 Sep 92 21:14:59 CDT
Organization: University of Kansas Academic Computing Services

>Subject: [M][R] Live Rock Farming
>From: steve@celia.UUCP (Steve Tyree)
>......
>pabilities of the system a little however, I applaud the efforts. Imagine,
>we could purchase captive grown live rock without nasty organisms in them.
>                                         ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

I know a guy that got several hundred pound of rock and dump it into
Sea of Cortez, in order to "make" live rocks. He did that 6 months ago 
and I was told that it will take at LEAST a year for the rocks to be 
seeded (ie, some small corals, feather dusters....etc) It would be 
interesting to see the quality of those rocks.

Unfortunately, our friends, the mantis shrimp and bristle worms will also 
be among the creatures living on those rocks.
From: rosentha@bldrdoc.gov (Peter Rosenthal 303-497-5844)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [F] New Plant Tank, suggestions?
Date: 14 Sep 92 15:55:10 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: National Institute of Standards and Technology

In article <1992Sep10.185809.12733@ultra.com> jimh@ultra.com (Jim Hurley) writes:
>In <67926@hydra.gatech.EDU> gt6441c@prism.gatech.EDU (Jon Edwards ) writes:
>
>
>>  I am working on plans for a 75 gallon plant tank and would like to run
>>it by the net before I actually decide on the specifics.
>
>>Proposed Tank:
>>   75g Oceanic Glass tank, no "hood"
>>   DIY W/D with 4 gallons of bio media, plus carbon/peat/whatever  
>>   4X40 watt flour lights, includes 2 Vitalites, 1 GroLux, and 1 Triton
>>   2 or 3 75 watt(?)  Incand grow lights (for spot lighting and Swords)
>>   Laterite gravel supplements, 4 inches of gravel 
>>   4 to 6 Keyhole Cichlids
>>   small school of tetras
>>   small school of "corys" 
>

I would bag the expensive vitalites and tritons.  A good mix
of cheaper bulbs will give equally good results.  A high quality
reflector is extremely useful.  I have an ultralume over
my plant tank that is just about the brightest fluourescent I
have ever seen.

I was never impressed with the plant growth or  general appearance
under vitalites, and I have tried many types of bulbs.

My plants are growing well with no CO2, but using the dupla
fertilizers sparingly.  I have no doubt that CO2 would help
but I can't find a cheap cylinder and regulator.

Interestingly enough, my tank is a counter example to the
arguments against letting direct sunlight hit the tank.  
About a third of the tank gets a couple of hours of late
afternoon direct sunlight.  The plants there are doing
spectacularly.  There is not a trace of algae anywhere
in the tank.

Peter Rosenthal

-- 
Peter Rosenthal       Email rosenthal@cmg.eeel.nist.gov

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: bruceg@Cadence.COM (Bruce Gustifson)
Subject: Re: selling young
Organization: Cadence Design Systems, Inc.
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 21:42:15 GMT

In article <1992Aug28.160343.29574@cis.uab.edu> patton@phy.uab.edu writes:
>
>have experience with selling back fry you have raised please respond. I am 
>having quite a bit of success breeding and would like to sell 
>the young. Any suggestions about buying
>them is appreciated. Thanks!!!
>
>patton@phy.uab.edu
>
  You know, I don't have any kids yet...but if I had some, I'd probably
want to sell them off too! 
  Oh, you mean fish...never mind.
From: oleg@Veritas.COM (Oleg Kiselev)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: More licensing Q's
Date: 10 Sep 92 02:54:01 GMT
Reply-To: oleg@veritas.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Palo Alto Killifish Loft
X-Disclaimer: I speak for myself only unless explicitly indicated otherwise

satilley@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu writes:
>If you see the sticker in the shop's window, then you know that they
>follow certain criteria -- that's the only way to get the sticker and you get
>checked on everything so often.......

Who will certify such shops?  Fish farmers?  Importers?  Equipment
manufacturers?  And which equipment manufacturers?  Those who insist that
trickle filtration is an unnecessary expence and all one needs for a reef 
tank is a big protein skimmer, or the manufacturers who make trickle filters?
Who will certify the staff?  Will the small shop be required to send their 
minimum wage teenage employees to training classes?  Who will pay for this?

More impotrantly, if the certification is done by a volunteer group then
how will they be able to educate the consumers about their existence, goals
and qualifications?
-- 
"Eight years is too long for anyone to go without skills or purpose." 
							-- George H. W. Bush

Oleg Kiselev                                             oleg@veritas.com
From: jason@lanai.cs.ucla.edu (Jason Rosenberg)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [M] Powerhead killed Damsel! Suggestions?
Date: 4 Sep 92 22:56:31 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department


>>Mr.Coach (schwarz@esrican.uucp) wrote:
>>: damsel had been sucked up into the intake of the powerhead.
>>: How do I avoid this from happening in the future?


I would say, that more than likely, your powerhead did not kill your damsel,
but rather your damsel died, and was subsequently sucked in.  Damsels are
very strong swimmers, not prone to lose control....Also, you mentioned how
you were cycling the tank, and one of the other damsels was also starting
to act strange (hiding, not moving much, looking listless).  Of course,
by all means you do want to protect your fish against the intake of your
powerhead.  Be sure your solution doesn't add too fine a mesh or whatever,
or else you will have to clean it from clogging (you mentioned not wanting
to do too much maintenance)....


-- 
Jason Rosenberg                           Computer Science Department
jason@cs.ucla.edu                         University of California
{uunet,rutgers,ucbvax}!ucla-cs!jason      Los Angeles, CA  90024
From: frankb@hpsad.sad.hp.com (Frank Ball)
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 16:45:58 GMT
Subject: Re: (F) What do you feed a LOBSTER and CRAYFISH...
Organization: HP Signal Analysis Division - Rohnert Park, CA
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria


*    Good grief.  All of the discussion on crayfish the *.aquaria
*    newsgroups have had lately, and you still think that that
*    thing is a lobster?  It is a blue crayfish.  You have three
*    crayfish.  Hopefully, a 65g will be large enough that they
*    won't shred each other - provide plenty of hiding places,

*   Good luck - let us all know how it goes.  Oh, and when I said they'd
*    eat anything, I meant anything (although I've never owned one - so take
*    all this with a grain of salt).  Weigh some vegetable matter down and
*    see if they go for it (wilted romaine lettuce would be a good start).  
*    Also, see if they go for tabimin, or some other bottom-feeder food.

They love tabimin and boiled zuccini.  

Frank Ball   1UR-M          frankb@hpsad.sad.hp.com
Hewlett Packard   	    (707) 794-4168 work  (707) 538-3693 home
1212 Valley House Drive     
Rohnert Park CA 94928-4999  KC6WUG Seca 750 XT350 IT175 DoD#7566 I'm the NRA.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: elster@cs.cornell.edu (Anne C. Elster)
Subject: Plastic plant suggestion (was Re: Scats, Chemi-Pure, Reeforms, Plants)
Organization: Cornell Univ. CS Dept, Ithaca NY 14853
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 22:17:06 GMT

In article <1992Sep15.170229.20018@watson.ibm.com> cliff@watson.ibm.com (cliff) writes:
>4. Anyone have any tips for making plastic plants look more lifelike?
>(I know you'll say get live plants, but I'm curious if there are tricks
>for making the plastic one look more natural.)

Even a European like myself find some plastic plants OK when nicely covered
with green algea. :-) (My 55g/200 liter is reserved for live ones, though.)
Well-lit aquaria might get this naturally.

However, to get a speedy result and avoid buying fancy lights, you can
obtain this effect by  placing the plastic plant(s) (prefferably a
naturaly-shaped looking one) in a small tank or glass bowl filled with
water in a sunny window for a week or so, and wonders result :-)
 -- They should get completely covered with green algea --  Even your
florecent pink will turn a nice natural green when left long enough in! :-)

The key is SUNNY window.

I've been using the drained off water from my aquaria (already de-clorated
and has some ammonia and algea in it) to fill the tank/bowls with.
Depending on the lighting, whether you have guppies, suckermouths, or other
algea-munching inhabitants in you tank, etc, the process will need to be
repeated  for a continued "natural" look.

			Happy "algea-farming"!

						Anne C. Elster
						elster@cs.cornell.edu
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:7347 alt.aquaria:4981
From: weekley@helios.phy.ohiou.edu (Don Weekley)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: (F) Community tank suggestions
Date: 15 Sep 92 03:15:49 GMT
Organization: Ohio University ASCGL, Athens


Hi again folks,

	Thanks to all of those people to replied to my last post.
I wanted to get more ideas for a new 60gal HEX tank. I am sure I
am going to get it and wanted to solicit peoples ideas on a good
mix of fish for a community tank of this type. I have gotten a
few ideas but really want to try to get more ideas on the mix (type,
size and numbers) of fish to set up a wonderful and well planted
60gal HEX tank.

					Thanks,	Don
-- 
Hey there! Hi there! Ho there!
You're as welcome as can be!
M-I-C-K-E-Y M-O-U-S-E!!
What else can it be?
From: booth@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (George Booth)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 18:13:49 GMT
Subject: Re: Drip plate blues and other questions
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria

In rec.aquaria, jmb14@jaguar.uofs.edu writes:

  I've finally gone big time and bought a wet/dry for $200 for my 55 (M) set up.
  The problem is that it has a drip plate not a spinner bar and I don't seem to 
  be getting even coverage of my sump.  A good lot of the water goes throught the
  middle of the drip plate and never makes it to the edges, subsequently the 2
  outermost rings of the DLS don't get wet.  What do I do?  I've got the thing
  pretty level and I tried making the holes in the center of the plate smaller
  and this has helped somewhat- anyway, the fish seem happy.
						 
I assume you have some filter material on top of the drip plate to prevent
gunk from getting to the DLS.  What I did was to take a piece of the 
black plastic mesh from the DLS and put it under the filter pad.  This
prevents the filter pad from clogging at the plate holes and provides
a nice, even water flow. 

While you're removing some black plastic mesh from the DLS, why not 
replace the DLS with something more useful, like the cheapest "bioballs"
(or equivalent) that you can find.  DLS will clog pretty quickly and 
the decomposing stuff will generate more nitrates than is necessary.

------
George
From: judson@watnxt2.ucr.edu (Michael Judson)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Food coloring
Date: 10 Sep 92 20:09:00 GMT

Would food colored water harm the fish?

--
"I drank what?" -- Socrates

judson@watserv.ucr.edu