HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: kendall@adobe.com (Janice Kendall)
Subject: Re: Pet Smells
Keywords: PET 
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1992 23:33:01 GMT

In article <C0138H.Jns@fiu.edu> cris@rigel4.fiu.edu (Cris Moore) writes:
>
>How should I go about removing the odor that was left after a room had been occupied by 
>dogs & cats for several months (don't ask)....
>
>The smell seems to be even in the walls....please help.
>
>
>-- 
>Cris Moore (cris@fiu.edu)     |   Why is this "page" intentionally left blank
>Florida International U.      |   when it isn't?
>Workstation Support           |


Find Nature's Miracle at your pet food store.  It's an enzyme that breaks down
the urine (or something).

I had a diabetic, formerly outdoor, cat who peed very frequently (even though
he got his insulin every morning).  He also became arthritic and started 
staying indoors.  After eating, he'd saunter from the kitchen into the
living room, stopping, as was his nature, to relieve himself along the
way - in the hallway.  

We put a cat box, in the hallway, but he didn't like it much.  I have
a wonderful image of him walking up to the box, putting his front paws on
the edge, looking up at us, and then proceeding to pee outside the box -
his look was "so, what're you gonna do about it?!"

He passed on a little over a year ago and our house does NOT smell of urine -
even after it's been closed up when we've been out of town.

Nature's Miracle.  (No, I don't work for them and offer no guarantees.)
   
 Janice Kendall    kendall@adobe.com    ...!{decwrl|sun}!adobe!kendall

      Don't Panic!  Clinton will be our *42*nd President.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: johne@PROBLEM_WITH_INEWS_GATEWAY_FILE (John Eaton)
Subject: Re: "balancing" a power panel
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1992 20:54:40 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard VCD
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5

Charles E Thorne (cthorne@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu) wrote:
: 
: Now, say you have a 100 amp main breaker.  You will have more than a total
: of 100 individual circuit amps.  The 220 circuits aren't a problem since
: each one take half off of each side.  The 110 circuits need to be balanced
: so that at any point only 50 amps is being used from each side.  Thus if
: at any time, circuits which are totally on one side or the other are in
: use, you could overload one side of the main breaker.  A good example would
: be in the kitchen.  At any time, you might be using much of your whole house
: power in that one room.  If all of the circuits are one one side, you would
: overload that side.  It wouldn't cause a problem, but you would be noticing
: a constant overload--and thus throwing breakers.  By balancing, this is
: unlikely to happen.
: 
:-----------------

I don't think so Tim.


The secret phrase is "Zero Neutral Current".


John Eaton
!hp-vcd!johne
From: sjo2693@tesla.njit.edu
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Software
Date: 30 Dec 92 17:11:27 GMT
Organization: New Jersey Institute of Technology

Is there any software out there that Not only gives the footprint but also
the prospective view of both inside and out...I have floorplan Plus but it
only gives a plan view I need something that will give me an elevation with
icons of windows and doors...construct a deck and possibly rotate the whole
view..the Home Depot in my area has something called 20-20 for kitchen
designs and more...please email me...thanks
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house

I happened to be looking through the yellow pages the other day for smoke
alarms and I ran across a heading of "Smoke Odor Counteracting Service".
I'm in San Jose, California, and there were 2 places listed.  Maybe there
is something in your area.

Good luck
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Building a new house
Date: 21 Dec 92 18:05:56 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

Jonathan Edwards writes:
>
>Based on my experience of just building a custom home, I can tell you that
>90% of the people in the building industry don't give a damn for quality. 

Well no wonder you had problems if building your house involved 90% of the 
people in the building industry.  Most folks wouldn't even get into two digits.
What was it like, having hundreds of thousands of people involved in building
your home, hmm?

Dave
-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
"I look back with some satisfaction on what an idiot I was when I was 25,
 but when I do that, I'm assuming I'm no longer an idiot." - Andy Rooney
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (patterson,george r)
Subject: Re: Breakers vs fuses.
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 92 04:12:38 GMT

In article <7214@atlas.cs.nps.navy.mil> erickson@atlas.cs.nps.navy.mil (David Erickson) writes:
>In article <1992Dec18.192917.18401@bcars6a8.bnr.ca> clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis) writes:
>
>>	- if it did, you're fuse box is in gross violation of the electrical
>>	  code (being able to disconnect one side of 220V without getting the
>>	  other).  These rules have been around at least 20 years....
>
>Come on, now, Chris.  Most houses built since the mid-fifties (at least)
>have had circuit breakers, not fuses.  Houses with fuses have electrical
>systems that are at least 40 years old, perhaps much older.

Not really. In at least Tennessee, Georgia, and South Carolina, fuse boxes
were allowed for circuit protection until the mid-seventies. Many people
put them in because they were cheaper than breakers. Most reputable builders
used breakers, of course, by my mother's house has a mix - one breaker box
and a fuse box (all electric constructed in 1963 to Tennessee code). If I
remember correctly, the fuses were for the electric baseboard heaters (which
are now gone).

I wired a house myself to Tennessee code in 1969 and put in a fuse box for
the main circuit protection. The Knoxville Utility Board made the approval.
I wired another to South Carolina code in 1970 with a fuse box. In that
case, Duke power company made the approval. This fits right in with Chris'
20 years.

Trivia. The Tennessee job used "Fusstat" fuses. Anybody else remeber them?

> Therefore,
>your conclusion is faulty, since the electrical code almost invariably
>grandfathers in installations that were correct at the time they were
>made.  The only way the fuse box would be in gross violation of the
>code would be if it had been so at the time it was installed.

If you take Chris at his word ("fuse"), you're correct. Any 220 line
protected by two fuses can be left live when one of the two is removed.
High amperage 220 lines, like stove lines, were typically protected with
cartridge fuses located in a separate load box with a manual disconnect,
but small ones like a dryer line used regular fuses in the main box. One
could quite legally set up this dangerous situation.

If Chris meant to say "breaker box", then he's right (as usual). Breakers
protecting 220 lines must be ganged.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | Society calls everything difficult good
                    | and makes everything good difficult.
                    |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: cab@col.hp.com (Chris Best)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: MICROWAVE OVEN PROBLEM
Date: 23 Dec 1992 16:21:58 GMT
Organization: your service
NNTP-Posting-Host: hpctdke.col.hp.com

>      The oven broke when I just had started heating a cup of water.
> I closed the oven door, set the timer, and hit time cook.  The oven
> ran for about 3 seconds and then quit, although the timer continued
> to function.  There were no unusual noises when the oven quit.
> The oven light still comes on when you open the door, but does not
> come on when you hit time cook.  The clock and timer continue to work
> but there is no noise at all when you hit time cook.  A day or two
> before this problem occurred, I noticed that sometimes when you closed
> the door, the oven light remained on.  If you re-closed the door, or
> pushed on it a little harder, the light would then go off.

----------

It could be something as simple as one of the door switches (there
are 3 or 4 for safety and different functions) going bad or just
getting out of adjustment.  Since you had to push on the door to
get the light to go off, try pushing on it while heating some water.
I'd guess it's not seeing the door closed, and it then refuses to
turn on the magnetron.

As for removal, just look around.  I had trouble removing ours once,
and wasn't around when the repair guy had it off the wall.  Still
a mystery...

Good luck!
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (patterson,george r)
Subject: Re: Need help removing concrete nails from slab
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 1 Jan 93 00:10:47 GMT

In article <1992Dec27.045456.28183@oracle.us.oracle.com> tslee@oracle.uucp (Terry S. Lee) writes:
>I need to get rid of about a dozen hardened concrete nails driven into a
>concrete slab.  The nails are about 30 years old, and the heads were broken
>off during a little demo' work.
> 
>About a half inch of each nail protrudes up.  I've tried cutting them with a
>solid carbide bit.  The bit cuts through some sort of sleeve, but doesn't do
>much once it hits the nail itself.

Hit the nail from each side. I use a two pound baby sledge hammer if I can
find mine (there is no such thing as an inanimate object in my house), but
a 32 oz. ball peen works pretty well too. When the nail bends to one side
(which takes two or three whacks), start hitting it from the other side.
Eventually it will break, flying God knows where, so take protective measures.
Wear goggles and hide the kids.

>BTW, around each nail is a smail 1/4" deep crater.  Have any you netters had
>any good experience with the gray resin stuff for filling concrete craters?

I've used a product called "Concrete Patch" and have no complaints. It looks
like fast-setting concrete.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | It could probably be shown by facts and figures
George Patterson -  | that there is no distinctly native American criminal
                    | class except Congress.
                    |                        Samuel Clemens
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: toad@cellar.org (Tony Shepps)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Closing on the newly built home - need check list
Date: 21 Dec 92 06:31:48 GMT
Organization: The Cellar BBS and public access system

manes@magpie.nycenet.edu (Steve Manes) writes:
> alexg@austin.ibm.com wrote:
>: Consider getting a professional building inspector. Should not cost
>: more than $150-200 but you'll learn a lot about your future home.
>: At least his unbiased and not as excited as you are.
> 
> Good point, but also be careful about picking a good home inspector.

Awright, who has hints on how to pick a good home inspector?

--
Tony Shepps toad@cellar.org
Preferred address: toad%cellar@tredysvr.tredydev.unisys.com
Public access and thoughtful conversation:  The Cellar BBS  +1 215 539 3043
From: rrw@sunset.cse.nau.edu (Bob Wier)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Need Help From Plumbing Gurus
Date: 3 Jan 93 05:33:42 GMT
Distribution: usa
Originator: rrw@sunset.cse.nau.edu

From article <1993Jan2.215159.20170@en.ecn.purdue.edu>, by ghg@en.ecn.purdue.edu (George Goble):
> When your hot water heater heats water, the water must expand, just
> a little bit, but  since it has nowhere to expand to, the pressure
> rises violently (hydraulic effect).  The  usual way to fix this
> is to install an "expansion tank", a 2-3 gal tank, which has
> a rubber diaphram, and it can be connected anywhere in your plumbing,
> even the cold water side.  When the water expands, it now has somewhere
> to go and the pressure will not violently rise.
 
  I've heard this a couple of times.  Does anyone know what the 
 "coefficient of expansion" of water is with temperature?  All my books
 are packed since I'll be off the net in a few days (changing jobs).
 I'd think that there might also be a contributing factor if you had
 some air at the top of your water heater (don't know if this would
 generally be possible or not) which was heated and expanded ...

 I had this problem, but it was due to a faulty thermostat on the water
 heater.  It was boiling the water on the lower element (and costing me
 a BUNCH in electricity to do that...) and the steam pressure caused the
 overflow valve to open (I've also been told that once they DO open, 
 frequently they go bad and need to be replaced).  Once I fixed my
 thermostat problem (a major story in itself) my overflow drip ceased...


- Bob Wier

  ---------- insert favorite standard disclaimers here ----------
                   College of Engineering
      Northern Arizona University, Flagstaff Arizona
  Internet: rrw@naucse.cse.nau.edu | WB5KXH | fax:602 523 2300
From: davet@ksr.com (Dave Teichholtz)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Guardware information
Date: 30 Dec 92 09:19:44 EST
Organization: Kendall Square Research, Waltham, MA


I purchased a home several years ago which is equipped with a Guardware alarm
system. I would like to add to the system, but have no manuals or such. Does
anyone have a phone number or address for this company?  Thanks in advance!
(email responses preferred!)

-David
--
============================================================================
David Teichholtz                 Kendall Square Research 
davet@ksr.com                    170 Tracer Lane, 
(617) 895-9466                   Waltham Mass. 02154-1379

Women think men will change after marriage.  Men think women won't.
They're both wrong
From: bagwill@swe.ncsl.nist.gov (Bob Bagwill)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Home Automation -- NOT X10
Date: 31 Dec 92 16:50:16 GMT
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]

One of the X10 mail order firms (X10 USA?) sells a system (which may be
the same as the aforementioned Honeywell one) which uses a combination
of X10 and your phone lines.  Since our house seems to have a phone
line in almost every room, if it were cheaper, I'd get that.  They
also sell a book about home automation, which I'd like to see.

--
Bob Bagwill
bagwill@swe.ncsl.nist.gov
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: high-density insulation?
Date: 29 Dec 92 17:10:18 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <1992Dec28.190734.4109@phx.mcd.mot.com> fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com (Fred Christiansen) writes:
>Typical fiberglass batt insulation for 2x4 walls is R-11 and for 2x6 walls
>R-19.  I noticed on the bags of pink stuff which I recently bought and
>installed that the dimensions indicated a height ("loft," if you wish)
>greater than actual wall depth (3.5" and 5.5", respectively).  There have
>been discussions in this newsgroup in the past as to whether you actually
>get R-11 or R-19 once the batts get squashed in by sheathing/drywall
>(altho I do not recall the final concensus, if any).

The advertising/code rules are such that, provided they're installed to spec (ie:
no undue squash, voids, "rollover", proper cut-and-fit) they'll provide the R value
they say they do.

>Which leads me to two questions:
>1) I noticed R-13 insulation for 2x4 walls.  Is the +2 increment in R factor
>   actually realized?  If so, anyone know what's different about 'em?

More fiber.

>2) CertainTeed claims they have R-15 for 2x4 walls and R-21 for 2x6 walls
>   via "High Density" insulation.  Anyone have experience with these?
>   Do they work?  Is the cost increase linear to the R-factor increase?

Ditto.  Dunno about cost.

>I note that CertainTeed has R-30 and R-38 "HighDensity" batts with less
>loft than others, permitting an air space in cathedral ceiling applications.
>I also note that they have "sound control" insulation.  I wonder if this
>is *really* different that std stuff, or if it is just a rename gimmick so
>they can improve their margin.

They'd have to meet advertised spec...  Which may just mean they're denser
and a bit more rigid (to avoid fluff blocking air space).

On the other hand, (as I know some people are expecting from me ;-), you might
want to do a little research about rock wool.  The 5.5" stuff is R21.5.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: Sparky
Subject: Gas Logs (Was Re: Maybe you can get FREE gas logs!)
Summary: Gas Logs (Was Re: Maybe you can get FREE gas logs!)
Organization: None
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 19:15:55 GMT

In article <1gtdvfINN818@hp-col.col.hp.com> cab@col.hp.com (Chris Best) writes:
>> Why don't you think they can put out much heat, at least in relation
>> to normal "wood"???  Of course, most fireplaces are loosing
>> propositions anyway since more heat tends to go up the chimney along
>> with air that was warm and inside the house) than gets dispersed in
>> the house.
>
>Exactly why I don't use mine much.  As for the first question,
>I never knew how a gas fireplace worked, so I just assumed they
>weren't as warm as a real fireplace.  I just have this (gut?)
>feeling that the flames themselves don't radiate that much by 
>themselves, and that it's the bed of coals that does most of it.
>Do the ceramic logs heat up and radiate too?
>

We recently purchased gas logs because we have an older home (1941)
and didn't want to have to worry about cracks in the flue, etc.  The
fireplace is also VERY small.

Haven't gotten the first gas bill since the logs, so can't compare there.

Heat wise, yes the ceramic logs do heat up and radiate heat, though
(IMHO) not as much as coals from a real fire.  Warm enough for me, though.

Gas logs are extremely convenient:  no wood to buy, no fire to build,
no ashes to remove, environmentally friendly (no smoke), no chimney to 
clean (no creosote in gas).  You just open the damper, turn the knob 
and whoosh -- instant fire.  When you turn off the gas, you can immediately 
close the damper and the logs will continue to radiate heat.  ("Real" fires
require the damper to be open until the fire is completely out.)

Our logs are of the decorative variety and look very natural (orange flame).

Gas logs are also available as heaters with a blower, but the flames are
predominantly blue and don't look natural.  My parents got a set of these.

Gas logs are also available that don't require a chimney -- have a very
blue flame.  (Blue flame = extreme heat = clean burning = no CO2).

No, I don't work for the gas company, just like my gas logs.

--Sparky
From: neilw@informix.com (Neil Williams)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: energy saving rebates (was: FREE gas logs!)
Date: 22 Dec 92 18:38:38 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

In article <1992Dec21.150412.6940@primerd.prime.com> mguyott@eriador.prime.com (M. Guyott) writes:
>In article <2D53VB2w164w@carrera.wvus.org> pete@carrera.wvus.org (Pete Gregory) writes:
>>Philip Barr <pbarr@convex.UUCP> writes:
>>
>>yes, but.... where is the economy for the utility company that gives
>>cash rebates for appliances (ie. refrigerators) that use LESS energy
>>instead of more energy?  in other words, why would the utility pay
>>me to use less energy?  what's in it for them?
>
>At least here in Reading, MA, where we deal with Boston Gas, there is nothing
>in it for them.  The gas company charges me an extra amount per therm of gas
>used each month that goes into a fund to pay for energy conservation
>improvements that people make to their homes and/or apartments.  The rate
>payers are the ones paying for the energy conservation programs.  I would not
>be surprised if this program was required by the state of Massachusetts.
>
>In some ways this makes a little sense.  The less gas that is used the lower
>the demand so the lower the rates.  Therefore it makes some sense for me to
>help others to conserve to help keep my rates down.
>
>But you have to wonder ....

Here in the Bay Area (Northern CA), we had an interesting phenomenon
that had a lot of people upset.  After being bombarded with drought
and water conservation messages for years, water usage has significantly
declined as people learn to conserve.

However, because the utility company was selling less water, it
raised rates to cover its margin!  So, use less water, pay the
same price....

Reminds me of our oxygenated gas - costs more, gives worse mileage,
so you have to buy more often.

--Neil

-- 
Neil Williams: neilw@informix.com

Seen on my last trip on United: "If you are seated in an exit row 
and can not (sic) read this card... please notify a crew member."
From: saskaw@thelma.unx.sas.com (Kathryn Wisniewski)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Weevils in Grain
Keywords: Weevils, pests
Date: 21 Dec 92 20:00:25 GMT
Followup-To: saskaw@unx.sas.com
Organization: SAS Institute Inc.
Originator: saskaw@thelma.unx.sas.com


Does anybody have any helpful hints on how to get rid of
moths in your kitchen once they get into some of your
grain?  I bought some bulk rice that must have had
these bugs in it (symptoms are little moths fluttering
around and small worms in cereal, flour, etc.)  I've
gotten rid of every grain product in my cabinet, but 
still find some of the moths every now and then so I'm
afraid to buy anything new for them to infest. Cedar
blocks in the cabinets haven't helped.

email me at SASKAW@UNX.SAS.COM
From: srivatsa@karna.Eng.Sun.COM (Chakra Srivatsa)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Interconnectable Smoke Alarms
Date: 22 Dec 1992 21:56:07 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Distribution: usa
Reply-To: srivatsa@karna.Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: karna

In article 10420018@pollux.svale.hp.com, rstarr@pollux.svale.hp.com (Rob Starr) writes:
>I am looking for a smoke alarm which is battery powered and interconnectable.
>
>Are there interconnectable battery-powered smoke alarms available?
>
>BTW a hard wire low voltage connection between alarms & the house is
>not a problem.  Making it 120V is a problem.
>
I know a way of doing it, but it may be a little more complicated than you
bargained for.  My security system has a fire zone to which I have hooked up
all my smoke alarms.  The alarms run off 12VDC, and require 4 wires - 2 for
supply and 2 for the alarm loop.  This would do the job for you.

You could buy a cheap alarm unit and hook up the smoke detectors to it.
But these smoke detectors are quite expensive (about $50 a pop).

If you are willing to open up the internals of the battery powered detectors, 
you should be able to take the connections going to the buzzer and use some relays to
tie all of them together.  Haven't done it myself, though, just free advice :-).


---
The one l lama, he's a priest. 		srivatsa@eng.sun.com
The two l llama, he's a beast.
And I will bet a silk pajama, 
there isn't a three l lllama!		says Ogden Nash

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house