HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: oxygen sensor
Date: 9 Oct 92 21:41:51 GMT
Organization: New York State Institute for Sebastian Cabot Studies

In article <1992Oct8.174659.9424@news.cs.brandeis.edu> andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang) writes:
>In the '87 Alfa, the sensor is farther downstream in a cooler area,
>the replacement interval is 100k and to further guarantee its removal,
>100K also happens to be the replacement interval for the catalytic
>converter to which the sensor is mounted.

100K?  the bosch 3-wire in my 87 alfa milano was dead by 60,000
miles; the aftermarket 3-wire lasted about 35,000 miles.

one reason why the sensor can be moved downstream is that the
3 wire has a built in heating element; this is what the additional
two wires are for.  in general, the 3 wire sensors become effective
more quickly when you start a car.

richard
-- 
richard welty                            518-393-7228
welty@cabot.balltown.cma.com
  ``if you can read this, mario, you're too close''
    -- bumper sticker seen on a CART safety truck
From: hsong@ardour.bellcore.com (G. Hugh Song)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Emergency hand brake?
Date: 17 Oct 92 02:20:56 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: NJ
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5

The hand brake of my '86 mazda 323 is not engaging enough to stop the
car rolling although I tightened the adjusting nut (almost fully).   So 
I checked the rear drum brake pads.  The thickness of the pad was still 
plentiful.
The leverage at the wheel was moving as my wife was pulling up the brake
lever.  According to the service manual, there is no other place to adjust 
the tightness of the hand brake except the nut which I already
tightened.   Do you have any idea what is going on?   Is it a common 
problem in many cars?   When a store like PepBoy replaces the rear drum 
brake shoes, do they scrape the inner part of the drum?  As to fixing 
the problem, even a makeshift idea will be appreciated.
I need to pass this year's inspection.

Thanks a lot.

	Hugh
From: gwcook@wineglass.Corp.Sun.COM (Gary Cook - ICON Edu Mgr)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Dash Restoration
Date: 15 Oct 92 19:42:05 GMT
Reply-To: gwcook@wineglass.Corp.Sun.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
NNTP-Posting-Host: wineglass.corp.sun.com


Is anybody aware of a company in the USA that does restorations of vinyl
dashboards for cars?  Not just plastic "dash-toppers" or minor crack repairs,
but complete recovering.  

A replacement for a 924 is about $800.  I found a company that will do this kind
of work for about $200, but they are not in the USA.  They say they replace
the foam and plastic.  A person that I know says they look just like factory
originals.  



---
Gary W. Cook, Education Manager
Intercontinental Operations		Tel: 415-688-9371
Sun Microsystems, Inc.    		Fax: 415-688-9025
2550 Garcia Ave.  MS MPK2-01		Email: gary.cook@Sun.COM
Mountain View, Ca  94303-1100		Compuserve: 73567,2774
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: byab354@chpc.utexas.edu (Jim Xu)
Subject: What is A.A.P.
Organization: The University of Texas System - CHPC
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 92 00:29:07 GMT


Dear netters:

Can you tell me what is A.A.P.? It is in the carburetor or somewhere else?
What is it's function?

Thanks.

Jim
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Buying NEW Targetmaster 350 from GM
Date: 8 Oct 92 07:51:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> i want, a 327 corvette long block from a guy in houston tx, if
-> something ever goes wrong with it i'm out of the $350 i paid for it.

 The chances of it being a real Corvette engine are remote.  There's
also no difference between a "Corvette" engine and the equivalent option
code motor from any other body.


->   I was wondering if there are any other alternatives to this?  I
-> mean,
-> they are selling here for right at $975 for a NEW one. About the same
-> thing in a lot of newer trucks and such but without fuel injection.

 That price is a little hard to believe.  The local Chevy dealer wants
$2300 for a Target 350, and that's basically just a long block.


-> in town that for $1000 will build a 350hp 350 and install it...But
-> he's not GMC and won't warrant it for more than 6 months.  Anybody

 Check your dealer's warranty again.  Does this warranty apply if they
don't do the actual installation?
                                                         
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mellum@skyler.mavd.honeywell.com
Subject: GM PROM Carriers: Need Source
Organization: Honeywell Systems & Research Center
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 18:33:53 GMT

Anybody know of a good mail order source for the Robinson-Nugent prom carriers
used by GM?  The Robinson-Nugent part number is PRC-246-E3.  This is a 24 pin
carrier as used by many of the GM vehicles.  My specific application is for the
Buick Grand National.

Ron

mellum@skyler.mavd.honeywell.com
From: dye@i88.isc.com (Ken R. Dye )
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: DOHC on a V8 possible?
Date: 13 Oct 92 17:03:04 GMT
Article-I.D.: i88.1992Oct13.170304.22467
Organization: INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation, Naperville, IL

In article <johnson.718942985@wrs.com> johnson@wrs.com (David Johnson) writes:
>too much is always better than too little), and the fact that a floating
>rear axle never has negative camber (when loaded) constitutes a favor toward
>the vette w/respect to traction.  Of course, the perfect amount of

	Some racers (NASCAR, even scca showroom stock) actually
camber their live rear-ends...the NASCAR guys buying expensive
axle splines to take into account the slop, and the showroom stock
guys just letting the splines wear out!

--Ken
-- 
Ken R. Dye				an optimist is a guy		 |
Interactive Systems Corp., Chicago	that has never had		 | 
(800) LAI-UNIX x341			much experience			 |
dye@i88.isc.comm						archy	 |
From: borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 15:09:22 GMT
Subject: Re: Re: electronic rustproofing.
Organization: Hewlett Packard Company, Spokane, Wa.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

In rec.autos.tech, ajb8886@ritvax.isc.rit.edu writes:

>In article <70692@hydra.gatech.EDU>, gt8166a@prism.gatech.EDU (DOERSCHUK,DAVID OAKES) writes:
>>In article <2927645605.1.p00140@psilink.com> p00140@psilink.com (Gary A. Woodward) writes:
>>>What a tremendous resource this is!  Does anyone have any experience 
>>>with electronic rustproofing device for cars.  The supplier says (naturally)
>>>that it is currently used on bridges and heavy equipment in salt mines.  
>>>Is this product based on a sound foundation of research.  Or is it just 
>>>something else to sell the public?  Could it hurt my on board computer 
>>>in car?  
>>
>>The railroads have used them ("sacrificials") for years, they seem to
>>work good, and are certainly based in valid chemistry.  They're often
>>just blocks of magnesium electrically connected to the car's body and
>>frame.  Instead of forming ferric oxide (rust) on the car's body,
>>you get magnesium oxide on the block of magnesium.  Eventually, the
>>magnesium has all turned to magnesium oxide, and you just replace it;
>>hence "sacrificial".  The main caveat is that you've GOT to have a
>>good electrical connection throughout the car's body panels and frame.
>>Next time you walk along a railroad track, look at the "joints" between
>>two pieces of track.  Notice that there's a big ground strap connecting
>>the two adjacent rails.  This is, in part, to keep all the track at the

               [stuff deleted]

>The technique described has been used on virtually all ocean going craft for
>quite some time.  Most metal-hulled boats have it, and quite a lot of
>fiberglass pleasure boats as well (before you flame me, it's to protect the
>metal drive mounts and prop from rust, not the fiberglass :).
>
>It's very effective, at least when you're dealing with a lot of salt water.

It is very effective, when you have a complete electrical circuit passing
through the electrolyte which is causing the rust.  In the case of the
rails, the path is through the moisture in the ground.  In the case of
boats, the path is though the salt water, which is a decent enough
conductor.  

In the case of a car, the path is though the air.  Oops!  Air is not a good
conductor.  Guess what?  This really doesn't work on the car, except in the
immediate vicinity of the sacrificial material, where the water actually
bridges both the sacrificial material and the car body.  Any distance away
and it ceases to work.


Donald Borowski    WA6OMI    Hewlett-Packard, Spokane Division
"Angels are able to fly because they take themselves so lightly."
                                       -G.K. Chesterton

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ornitz@kodak.kodak.com (Barry Ornitz)
Subject: Re: electronic rustproofing?
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Summary: Don't waste your money!
Keywords: corrosion, galvanic protection, paint
Organization: Eastman Chemical Company
Distribution: net
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 92 22:18:25 GMT

In article <2928086356.0.p00140@psilink.com> "Gary A. Woodward" 
<p00140@psilink.com> writes:
>I bought one of the electronic rustproofing systems.  It cost me $75.00.
>It has two blocks that appear to be carbon-like with a single conductor 
>wire attached.  There is a brain(?) that has a + and a - wire attached. 
>There is also a red led to show it is hooked up (positive feed back for 
>customer and a 14ma drain prob.).  I called the manuf. they said that 
>the unit, when the paint is scratched, does not allow the bare metal to 
>bond with oxygen molecules to form rust.  They have a picture of a piece 
>of bare steel in a fish tank filled with salt water that has one of the 
>carbon blocks hot glued to it and it appears bright and not oxidized. 
>I have seen the magnesium and zinc sacificials, they seem to work.
>Is the electronic device I've described based on sound theory?  I am 
>interested in your replys to the net.

This comes up often enough that I am glad I saved the following old post.  It
should answer some of these questions. It is significant that the demonstration
mentioned above used total immersion.  Be aware that in some circumstances,
active electrolytic protection schemes can PROMOTE corrosion.  Read the post
below for details.  I cannot remember Jim's full name at the moment; he was
a chemical engineering graduate student.  Larry was, of course, the late Larry
Lippman - a good friend who I miss a lot, and a genuine Net personality.

Please refer questions directly to me since I will be on business travel after
Friday for a week with no way to read the newsgroup or answer email for a while.
						Barry

 -----------------
|  ___  ________  |       Dr. Barry L. Ornitz          WA4VZQ
| |  / /        | |       Eastman Kodak Company
| | / /         | |       Eastman Chemical Company Research Laboratories
| |< < K O D A K| |       Process Instrumentation Research Laboratory
| | \ \         | |       P. O. Box 1972, Building 167B
| |__\ \________| |       Kingsport, TN  37662       615/229-4904
|                 |       INTERNET:   ornitz@kodak.com
 -----------------
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From ornitz Thu Jun 22 09:45:05 EDT 1989
Article 7482 of sci.electronics:
From: rwittick@ibm.cl.msu.edu (Bob Wittick)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: TURBO COUPE'S OUT THERE?
Date: 8 Oct 92 11:46:08 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Organization: Michigan State University

In article <599.88.uupcb@chaos.lrk.ar.us>, dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us
(Dave Williams) wrote:
> 
> 
> -> I'm writing this article to see how many people out there are
> -> interested in forming a semi-club over the email system.  This
> -> semi-club will be just for us proud TURBO COUPE owner and nobody else
> -> (because there is no other car to compare).
> 
>  Well, that sounds real nice, but how many Subaru Turbo Coupes are out
> there?
>                    

Darn, I thought he was talking about Porsche 911 Turbo Coupes.

               Bob Wittick
               Computer Laboratory
               Michigan State University
From: agwiii@fang.att.com (Grayson Walker (660-7949)(12/92))
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Inexpensive engine pre-oilers
Date: 14 Oct 92 18:06:19 GMT
Article-I.D.: fang.Bw4IAK.1Lp
Distribution: usa
Organization: American Solutions, Inc., Dragon Point, Florida

Stefan Reitshamer and Jerry Stubbs wrote:

>>I think a good pre-start heating system would be good. Instead of cranking
>>the engine, plug your car in at night. At a pre-determined time in the 
>>morning the engine block heater, the window de-icers, the seat-warmers
>>and the battery heater would all come on. You could get in, start your
>>car without worrying about oil gelling, and reduce your idling warm-up,
>>saving you gas, plugs, etc.  And it would add to your comfort and 
>>convenience, not detract.
>>

What's your problem? If it gets too cool in the garage, just turn up the
A/C.  IMHO air conditioning your garage wastes energy.  I keep mine
ventilated, the A/C air handler is in there, but I don't cool it. Then,
on the other hand, it gets pretty warm in there if both cars have been
recently driven.  Still, I just open the door and let it cool off.

-- 
Grayson Walker                                           CHC, Maitland, Florida 
Forza!                                            Internet: agwiii@fang.att.com
Voice: 407 660 7949               ". . . big brown river . . ." Tuli Kupferberg
From: pwu@tang.ai.mit.edu (Peng Wu)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: oxygen sensor  !! YES !!
Date: 14 Oct 92 16:02:01 GMT
In-reply-to: elmquist@pez.ssesco.com's message of 13 Oct 92 14:33:52 GMT


      I replaced mine last night and well, I have a new car for $37.  This has
      solved a very long (3 year), annoying problem with my '87 Integra.  The
      car has been to all Acura dealers in Minnesota...  with each one replacing
      various major components (computer, idle control valves, throttle body)
      and doing all sorts of tuneup things like injector cleaning, new plugs, etc.
      None of which made any improvement.  They are clearly unable to diagnose
      these sorts of problems.
      
      I spent 10 minutes with my multi-meter measuring the voltage from the O2
      sensor and it was totally fubar.  The Acura service manual states that
      you should get a voltage of less than .4v at idle (after fully warming
      the engine) and something greater than .6v at open throttle.  I was getting
      totally random readings at idle--  sometimes .1v sometimes .9v...  it would
      always settle out to some value but each time I opened the throttle and
      then closed it, it would settle out to a different value... anywhere in
      the range .1v to .9v.  At open throttle, it read close to 0v...  *all
      screwed up*.

I am very much interested in knowing how the NEW O2 sensor responses to the
test procedure you used to test the OLD one.  I try to rule out a connector
problem or other problems that you unintentionally "fixed" when you were
working on the sensor.
From: jhaines@eniac.seas.upenn.edu (Jason Haines)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: braking tech. info
Date: 15 Oct 92 04:21:08 GMT
Organization: University of Pennsylvania


	I am trying to find info on different types of
braking systems available.  I am trying to find braking systems
more suited to ultralight applications where weight and drag are an
issue.
	More than just technical info (that I also want), I am trying to
find out about different systems that actually exist - where should
I look?
	I am  thinking of using some kind of drumn brake arrangement 
because they tend to have less drag and large amounts of heat dissipation
and large braking forces are not needed in this case.

BTW - why are disc brake systems inherintly designed to drag the pads
a certain amount?  I have been playing with designing a return spring
system to push the pads away from the disc - although this will increase
the needed brake pedal effort.



------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jason R. Haines		     University of Pennsylvania (SEAS & Wharton)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
(215) 387-5607		      -   Red '90 Mustang LX 5.0  
			      - Blue '71 Rotary Powered Datsun 510 	
3rd floor		      - 
249 South 44th Street	      -  These are the opinions of my
Philadelphia, PA 19104-2945   -   employer, I'm self employed.
------------------------------------------------------------------------


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: johnson@wrs.com (David Johnson)
Subject: Re: DOHC on a V8 possible?
Organization: Wind River Systems, Inc.
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 05:06:45 GMT

dye@i88.isc.com (Ken R. Dye ) writes:

>In article <johnson.718942985@wrs.com> johnson@wrs.com (David Johnson) writes:
>>too much is always better than too little), and the fact that a floating
          ^
          ^-[insert: tire press, and *negative* camber]

>>rear axle never has negative camber (when loaded) constitutes a favor toward
>>the vette w/respect to traction.  Of course, the perfect amount of

>	Some racers (NASCAR, even scca showroom stock) actually
>camber their live rear-ends...the NASCAR guys buying expensive
>axle splines to take into account the slop,

Yeah, and they even went so far as to remachine carriers for an extra
spline inside-a-spline [see _Stock_Car_Racing_ earlier this year].

>and the showroom stock guys just letting the splines wear out!

and not being very *showroom stock* :-)

DAVE (johnson@wrs.com)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: q1hl@jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca (Nameless CS Student)
Subject: Re: 89 Jeep Wrangler slave cylinder
Organization: University of New Brunswick
Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1992 02:09:51 GMT

In article <81405@ut-emx.uucp> rodder@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Jon D. Rodder) writes:
>>> I've got an 89 Jeep Wranlger, 258 (4.2l), 5spd, 57,000k miles.
>>> The slave cylinder appears to have died on it (have to refill
>>> the master cyl every other day, and there is fluid dripping from
>>> the bellhousing).  Has anyone here replaced one of these before?
>>> It appears that I've got to completely drop the tranny and transfer
>Neither, I guess I should specifically said clutch slave cylinder,
>but anyone with useful advice (someone who has replaced the clutch
>slave cylinder in a wrangler) would have immdeiately understood what
>I was talking about.  

I drive an automatic, so I can only relay what the MR279 Workshop
Manual says.

Cylinder and Bearing Removal:
1.  Disconnect the master cylinder line from the slave cylinder
    inlet tube.
2.  Remove the transmission and transfer case.
3.  Slide the rubber insulator out of the insulator bracket and
    off the slave cylinder lines.
4.  Remove the bolts attaching the insulator bracket to the
    clutch housing and slide the bracket off the cylinder lines.
5.  Remove the cylinder and bearing retaining nut.  Pry the nut
    up and off the mounting pin on the transmission front case.
6.  Remove the cylinder and bearing by sliding the assembly off
    the tranmission input shaft.  If the cylinder and bearing
    will be reused, take care to avoid bending or kinking the
    hydraulic lines.  CAUTION: Do not remove the hydraulic lines
    from the cylinder and bearing.  The lines are not
    serviceable components and will leak if removal and
    installation is attempted.

Cylinder and Bearing Installation:
    (essentially the same steps in reverse)
    CAUTION: Replacement cylinder and bearing assemblies are
    equipped with nylon retaining straps.  These straps hold the
    piston in place during shipment and installation.  DO NOT
    remove the straps.  They are designed to break-away the
    first time piston movement occurs.

-- 
Chris Rasley.
From: rulon@ibms4.scri.fsu.edu (Phil Rulon)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Tires : Slicks vs. Treaded
Date: 7 Oct 92 15:54:57 GMT
Organization: SCRI, Florida State University

>white@watsci.uwaterloo.ca (Brad White) writes:

>>>My friend and I are having a debate.  Consider that it is a clear and sunny
>>>day. Which tire would give you more traction?  A slick or a treaded tire?
>>>He is arguing that a treaded (!!) tire has more effective surface area on the 

[...]

bassek@lesti.hut.fi (Basse Kankkonen) responds:

>It ocurred to me that the formula of friction is F=u*m*g
>(u=constant of friction,m=mass,g=acc. 9.81m/s^2)
>This means that the traction is not depending on the area.

This was exactly the argument that Firestone gave Mark Donahue in the mid '60s.
Donahue rejected it, demanded 2 in. wider tires, took 2-3 sec. off of his lap
times, and won the Trans-Am championship. (read his book "The Unfair Advantage")

What you're missing is the fact that tires grip through two effects, one is
dry friction the other is adhesion.  The formula you've written is the
classical (linear) dry friction equation.  The linear formula describes the
dry friction component of tire grip fairly well.  The adhesion component is 
more acurately described as a gluing effect and is _very_ non-linear
in N (m*g in you're formula). It is, however, roughly linear in A (contact patch
area) The constant u in the above formula is, in fact, not at all constant
but a complicated function of temerature (which you mentioned), viscosity (of
the compound), and a host of variables related to the chemistry of the compound
and the road surface.

  This is why tires with soft compound will grip better than dimensionally
identical hard compound tires.  The softer the compound, the more 
significant the gluing effects are.  There is, of course, a corresponding
increase in rolling resistance with a soft compound tire as well as wear rate
considerations.  

  Tire development is far from an exact engineering practice.  Trial and error still play a major role in the field.

Personally, I like to wear them out (at high speed).

Phil Rulon                                   rulon@mailer.scri.fsu.edu
Supercomputer Computations Research Institute
Florida State University
Tallahassee                                  audio  (904) 644 7008
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: pschauer@evans.den.mmc.com (Paul Schauer)
Subject: Error Codes (was: Re: GM diagnostic harness)
Organization: MMAG
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 20:04:58 GMT

In article <1992Oct8.152853.1690@newsgate.sps.mot.com>, mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw) writes:
> 
> In article <Bvrppv.GGC@medar.com>, wpeloqui@medar.com (Willie Peloquin) writes:
> |> In article <1992Sep24.134143.23375@ll.mit.edu> jth@ll.mit.edu (Joe Healey) writes:
> |> >

[stuff about GM connectors, diagnosis, etc. deleted]
 
> the error code number.  

I saw this thread over in sci.electronics. Forgive me if this is a
FAQ for this news group, but does anyone have the error codes for Chrysler?
My '88 turbo Shadow has an error code 15, and I would like to know what it
means!
Many Thanks!

Paul Schauer
From: MARK@wvnvm.wvnet.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Engine hesitation/surging when foot taken of gas
Date: 8 Oct 92 14:57:33 GMT
Article-I.D.: wvnvm.92282.105733MARK

I have a 88 Nissan 200SX 2.0L 4 cylinder FI. 8 spark plugs 60K miles.

Problem:

When traveling at 55-65 mph and remove my foot from the gas pedal, Engine
surges/hesitates almost like it is mis-firing. This problem is most noticed
when in 4th gear and rolling down a hill. Checked the TPS
(Throttle postioning switch): OK, Test-drove the car with the EGR system disc.:
problem still noticed,  Replaced spark plugs: problem seemed to get a little
better but still there. Also tried some STP FI. Cleaner.


Engine idles fine, Accelaration smooth but may have lost some horsepower.
No hesitation though when foot is on the pedal.

NOTE: did not replace with NISSAN plugs, put in Motorcraft instead.
      Nissan specifies 2 different types of plugs(4- Intake, 4-Exhaust) while
      Motorcraft says you can use one type for all eight.
      Is Motorcraft correct ?  If they are, why does Nissan specify 2 different
      types ?



 Any thoughts, suggestions or comments would be greatly appreciated.


                                  Thanks,

                                  Mark
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech