HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: tthiel@cs.uiuc.edu (Terry Thiel)
Subject: Re: Demise of wool winter jerseys?
Keywords: wool
Organization: University of Illinois, Dept. of Comp. Sci., Urbana, IL
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 13:52:06 GMT

mvolo@ecsvax.uncecs.edu (Michael R. Volow) writes:
>Is the wool winter jersey dead. Here, in the home of Performance, they
>had a few long sleeve winter jerseys, but in dark colors. Not too
>visible or attractive. When I called Nashbar, Colorado Cyclis, and
>Excel, they didn't have any either. It seem like everybody is into
>high tech fabrics. But I sure would like to get a light colored, long
>sleeve wool jersey. Anyone know where?
>Michael Volow, Psychiatry, Durham VA Med Center, Durham NC 27712
>919 286 0411 Ext 6933               mvolo@uncecs.edu

Bridgestone is making 4 or 5 wool jerseys this year.  They look really
nice but I don't know how much they are.  Also one of the Italian
companies (Giordana?) is selling one this year.
-Terry
-- 
-Terry
From: brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 18:47:31 GMT
Subject: Re: take a seat, get a grip
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech

>/ hpcc01:rec.bicycles.tech / Ullrich_Fischer@mindlink.bc.ca (Ullrich Fischer) /  7:38 am  Jan 26, 1993 /
>I've discovered by trial and error another solution to the bike seat problem.
Guess I'm lucky.  I'm doing about 250 miles a week with no problem...
>
>
>I've adopted a similar solution to the problem of numbness in the hands
>from leaning on the handlebars over rough roads for too long.  A pair of
>smaller chunks of packing foam stuffed in a pair of old socks and pulled over
>the bike's woefully inadequate handlegrip padding works wonders.  It makes
>manipulating the brake levers a bit of a challenge, but actually ends up
>strengthening your grip.

Hand numbness has been a problem for me on my mountain bike/commuter.  (I do
by far the most miles on that bike...)  I added some Scott 'climbing bar
ends', though I generally don't use them for climbing.   I got the L shaped
bars for the additional hand positions.  To make them more useful, I got
a package of the cheap ($3.00 or so) foam grips found on coaster bike cruisers.
They serve to increase the diameter of the bar, increase the friction
(important in the winter rains), and add some padding.  BTW, Samson fat
wrap kinda works, but the cheap foam seems to work better.  

BBTW, I found that the thin neoprene padding (like found in the Nashbar
gloves) works best for me.  The Spenco Gel gloves are the worst for me.
I think it's because the gel gloves serve to put pressure by one of
the nerves.  It's not pleasant losing sensation in a couple of fingers.

The cheap padding also has the advantage of making the bike less
attractive to thieves, as Ullrich noted.

Pete Brooks
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: slb@heidi.acc.Virginia.EDU (sandy)
Subject: Re: WD-40 To Clean Chains???
Organization: University of Virginia
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 15:11:54 GMT



In article <C1Gw0u.85t@javelin.sim.es.com>, bgeer@beorn.sim.es.com (bob geer) writes:

|> I've never seen WD-40 available in bulk quantities -- only in the
|> aerosol cans here in the USA.  Has anyone?

Some hardware stores here in VA sell it by the gallon in liquid
form.  Have one sitting in my basement now - bought it at an
Ace Hardware, I think.

-- 
sandy bryant
slb@virginia.edu
From: v206gb6c@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (My stuffed shark is eating my toenail clippings)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Mathematics of gears and why 24-36-46 is bad
Date: 26 Jan 93 23:41:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <1k1v10INNelh@darkstar.UCSC.EDU>, haverl@cats.ucsc.edu (Carl A Haverl) writes...
> 
>When I replaced the cranks on my mountain bike, the gearing changed
>from 26-36-46 to 24-36-46.  With the new chainwheels and chain, shifting
>from the smallest chainring was very difficult.  I generally had to
>overshift into (if not onto) the largest chainwheel and then back the
>
>I investigated.  When shifting off the smallest ring, the chain never
>lined up with the teeth of the middle ring.  Here is the problem.
>The greatest common divisor, gcd(24,36), is 12.  This means that
>there are 24/12 = 2 qualitatively different ways to shift the chain
>off the smallest ring, depending on which set of 12 teeth the chain
>leaves from.
> 
>The solution?  Going back to 26-36-46 solved my problems.  Since
>gcd(26,36)=2, I have 26/2=13 different shift positions off the small
>ring so one of them is bound to line up well.  Also, gcd(36,46)=2
>so there are 36/2=18 different shift positions off the middle ring to
>the larger ring.

    I can't support this logic.  I've been riding 24-36-46 for more that 3
years on multiple bikes and have never had this problem.  Are you sure your
chain is not streched out?  I just tried 20 24->36 shifts on the 2 bikes I
have with this combo (one XT-RFP and one top-mount DX) and neither failed 
to shift onto one of the first 3 teeth to come by.

PauL M SchwartZ  (-Z-)  |  Follow men's eyes as they look to the skies
v206gb6c@ubvms.BitNet   |         the shifting shafts of shining 
pms@geog.buffalo.edu    |        weave the fabric of their dreams
pms@acsu.buffalo.edu    |                    - RUSH -
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: hal@netcom.com (Hal Wine)
Subject: Re: news
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1993 09:14:11 GMT

In article <1993Jan22.194025.1@vax.sonoma.edu> vannuysd@vax.sonoma.edu writes:
>I liked the ease and effectiveness of WD-40.  Anybody know where this guy
>is coming from in warning us off of it?

The story I've heard is that WD-40 is silicon based, and that silicon
will remain tacky.  The tacky surface holds any road dust/dirt and
incrases wear.

From the same source, teflon based sprays are okay, as teflon doesn't
have a tacky residue.  This came from a bike shop owner, who's shop
doesn't sell WD-40, but does sell the teflon products.
-- 
Hal Wine
Internet: hal@netcom.com		Compuserve: 72267,3346
From: richd@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Rich Davis)
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 17:53:43 GMT
Subject: Suspension Questions
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech


  I recently purchased a Specialized M2. I decided to hold off on 
  suspension because of some questions I have. First off, is there
  seems to be a couple of solutions for suspension that attempt to 
  accomplish the same result; front-end, and handle bar.  I know a 
  lot of people riding fork suspension, they all say the same things, 
  ie; it alters the frame geometry, it adds weight, there's maintenance, 
  etc....  But they are still sold on the forks.  Unfortunatley, no one
  I know has ridden handle bar suspension.

  I'm curious to know if anyone has tried riding handle bar suspension,
  and might be able to compare/contrast this with fork/frame solutions.

-RC
 richd@hpfcmws 
From: jbrandt@hplred.HPL.HP.COM (Jobst Brandt)
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 17:34:09 GMT
Subject: Re: HELP! Crank length & 32 vs. 36 Spoke
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories, Palo Alto, CA
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech

Jamie Cashin writes:

> I am trying to decide whether to leave the stock 32 spoke wheels
> on the rear, or go with a 36 spoke.  Both would be relatively the
> same price, the local shop ("Earle Industries" for local readers)
> is awesome in the customer service department.

Having a different number of spokes front and rear doesn't matter
unless you build wheels and want to buy a new pair for your hubs.
From your dimensions, it wouldn't hurt to take the 36 spoke wheels,
assuming they are using thin swaged spokes (probably not).  With fat
tires and the smaller diameter of rim, 32 spokes is good enough for
most riders.  Today there is a good selection of hubs and rims in
both 32 and 36 so you won't be stuck with either.  The main point is
that there is no performance advantage with fewer spokes.  The
weight of 4 spokes is less than the mud in the tread while the wind
drag at under 20 mph is about like changing the tilt of your helmet.

jobst_brandt@hplabs.hp.com
From: mack@risc.sps.mot.com (Gregg Mack)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: news
Date: 26 Jan 1993 10:24:43 -0600
Organization: Motorola (Austin,TX)
NNTP-Posting-Host: ome.sps.mot.com

vannuysd@vax.sonoma.edu writes:

>In either Bicycling or MBA, I read an article that suggested using WD-40
>to clean your bike chain.  I tried it and really liked the results.  But
>in the current California Bicyclist, there is an article by a mechanic
>who tosses off a warning NOT to use WD-40 without giving any rationale.
>I liked the ease and effectiveness of WD-40.  Anybody know where this guy
>is coming from in warning us off of it?

WD-40 is interesting stuff.  It is a combination of a solvent and a
lubricant.  The solvent cuts through the existing grease and sludge
which makes it great for freeing-up "frozen" bolts and nuts, as well
as cleaning your bicycle chain.  This solvent quickly evaporates,
however. That's good because you don't want it to stay on your chain.
The lubricant in WD-40 is suspended in the solvent, and as such is
carried into every nook and cranny that the solvent penetrated. So 
far so good.  Now here's the problem: the lubricant also evaporates,
although at a much slower rate than the solvent.  What you now have
is a chain with NO lubricant on it!  

I suspect that you could use WD-40 to clean your chain, although I find
paint thinner to be much more cost effective.  After it is cleaned and
dried, then you must still add a lubricant of some kind.  Use something
that can be added one drop per chain pin and wipe off all the excess
before putting the chain back onto the bike.  I like the Tetra Bike
lubricant with PTFE (the slipperiest substance known to man) that I
buy from Performance through the mail.

-- 
Gregg Mack                  ---------- __o       __o       __o       __o
gmack@paceline.sps.mot.com  -------- _`\<,_    _`\<,_    _`\<,_    _`\<,_
Motorola RISC uProcessors   ------- (*)/ (*)  (*)/ (*)  (*)/ (*)  (*)/ (*)
Austin, Texas  USA          ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tthiel@cs.uiuc.edu (Terry Thiel)
Subject: Re: LX DX XT XTR Confusion
Organization: University of Illinois, Dept. of Comp. Sci., Urbana, IL
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 02:12:22 GMT

amc@crash.wpd.sgi.com (Allan McNaughton) writes:
>Shimano groups in order of quality...
>1992: LX, DX, XT, XTR
>1993: DX, XT, LX, XTR  (bet i'll get flamed for this one...)
>The 1993 LX group uses many design tricks they learned when building the 
>XTR line.  Not as well finished or durable as XTR.  MBA likes it, I like
>it on my bike...

You forgot to mention that LX is not as well finished or durable as DX or XT
either.  Of course if you have an LX bike then thats a strong incentive to
defend it...
-Terry
-- 
-Terry
From: Pointerm@duvm.ocs.drexel.edu (Richard Pointer)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Wanted: Info on new TREK OCLV Composite Frames(5200,5500,5900)
Date: 27 Jan 93 19:51:18 GMT
Organization: Drexel University (Composite Mechanics Lab)
X-Xxmessage-Id: <A78C6025DD0314E6@n1-20-230-hess-lab.coe.drexel.edu>
X-Xxdate: Wed, 27 Jan 93 15:52:05 GMT
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d12

Wanted : Information on the new TREK OCLV Framesets
From : Richard Pointer


   I'm thinking about purchasing one of the new TREK OCLV framesets. I
can get a pretty good deal on one. I'd like to know if anyone has one and
how they like it. I've been riding an SLX Merckx for the last 6 years and
other steel frames before that, so I'm pretty comfortable with steel. I'm
especially interested in the advantages and disadvantages that people
have noticed between the different frames (composite vs. steel).  Any
comments would be appreciated, be it about the TREK or any other
composite frameset. 
   Also, if anyone has a copy of April, 1992 Bicycling Magazine with the
article comparing the TREK with the Kestral, I would be very interested
in getting hold of a copy.
     
Thanks much.... Rich
Richard Pointer
POINTERM@DUVM.OCS.DREXEL.EDU
Department of Mechanical Engineering
Drexel University, Philadelphia, PA 19104
--------------------------------------------------
     "Sometimes being a graduate student is NO FUN!!!"
--------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: H.ZIERKE@BI-LINK.owl.de (Hans-Joachim Zierke)
Organization: Private Site in Berlin
Subject: Compatibility (was Re: Groupsets suck!!
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 93 13:00:00 +0100
X-Mailer: CrossPoint v2.1 R/211
X-Gateway: ZCONNECT UI sisyphos.owl.de [UNIX/Connect v0.12]


On 20.01.93, jimd@pequod.gvg.tek.com writes:

> What is the interchangeability of hubs and cassettes?  Is there any
> compatability between, say, Shimano <-> Suntour, or even Shimano <->
> Campy?  I haven't really checked these out, since I have early
> Cretaceous technology on my road bike.  Now that I'm planning to bite
> the bullet and convert to an indexing system, I'm interested.

I spoke to Klaus Eweleit of Sachs Germany yesterday. Mr. Eweleit is
a living wonder: One of the marketing people who know what they are
talking about.
He is responsible for the support of racing teams here. 

Mr. Eweleit said they changed back the Sachs 8-speed freewheels (and the
right shifter) from 4,8 to 5mm evenly spacing to give the racers using
Sachs 8speed derailleurs the chance of using spare wheels with Campy or 
Shimano freehubs if need be.

If there is any problem, it will occur with STI or Ergopower levers, 
because there is not a lot of overshift built in.



Ciao
Hajo

--
Hans-Joachim Zierke  ##  Tel.: +49-30 / 394 8445  ##  Fax: +49-30 / 394 8447
                         h.zierke@bi-link.owl.de
From: garethb@hpopd.pwd.hp.com (Gareth Barnard)
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 09:33:59 GMT
Subject: Re: about cantilever brakes
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, CCSY Messaging Centre, UK.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech

The rear cantis on my XTR setup are shorter than the front ones. I think most
canti sets are made this way. Im not sure why though. Maybe the rear ones need
to be stiffer or the shortness gives increased performance at the rear.

C'ya

Roo.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: flip@sage.cc.purdue.edu (Phillip D. Russell)
Subject: Re: Demise of wool winter jerseys?
Organization: Purdue University Computing Center
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 15:46:07 GMT

In article <DODD.93Jan25051648@mycenae.cchem.berkeley.edu> dodd@mycenae.cchem.berkeley.edu (Lawrence R. Dodd) writes:
>
>>>>>> "Michael" == Michael R. Volow <mvolo@ecsvax.uncecs.edu> writes:
>
>
>  Michael> Is the wool winter jersey dead. Here, in the home of Performance,
>  Michael> they had a few long sleeve winter jerseys, but in dark colors. Not
>  Michael> too visible ...  But I sure would like to get a light colored, long
>  Michael> sleeve wool jersey. Anyone know where?
>
>On a related note, I was shopping for a winter jacket this weekend and I was
>amazed by (1) the prices and (2) the lack of visible colors.  
>
>What is it with every manufacturer making its jackets and everything else
>almost entirely black?  Now I understand the principles of radiative heat
>transfer with regard to black bodies, but I would prefer to have a jacket that
>is bright fluorescent yellow like my wind-breaker so that cars will see me
>prior to slamming into me.  Does anyone out there know the reason for the
>prevalence of dark winter apparel?

Nashbar is carrying all kinds of "flowery" winterwear.

Personally, I prefer to wear the dark colors. Some people argue that
that brighter colors are better for beeing seen.

They also make you good "bumper targets" for areas where the locals
hate cyclist in neon or pastels. 8-)

Flip


-- 
         __@    Phillip "Flip" Russell  | Purdue University      __@
  _ -_,_-\<,_   flip@sage.cc.purdue.edu | West Lafayette, IN  _ -\<,_
 (_)/---|/-(_)           The important things...             (_)|/-(_)
                        My bikes and my Macintosh
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: EPLUS17@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu (Richard Engelbrecht-Wiggans)
Subject: Re: Tri-bar safety
Organization: C.C.S.O.
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1993 00:01:07 GMT

>In article <74171@cup.portal.com>, JForester@cup.portal.com (John - Forester) writes...
>>                          I have since seen some tri-bars with
>>brake levers, but I don't know whether the bikes that carry these
>>also have brake levers in the normal place. If so, what is the
>>mechanism for linking the action?
 
I have a home designed/built aero bar dating back to the
late 70's (yes, well before they were mass marketed.)
It is a single tube clamped to the top of the stem and it
points straight forward about 16"; I use a conduit bender
to bend the front end up.  I installed a single brake lever
on the front and ran the cable to my rear brake.  That
bike dates back to the days when center pull brakes were--
except the Campy Record side-pull--considered the best way
to go.  I simple have two cables running into the hanger
on the brake's cross wire (whatever its called); I had to
make my own bolt for the hanger, drilling a large enough
hole to accomodate two cables.  I provides as much braking
as I think I can ever handle in the aero position.  (If I
had to do it over again, I might link that extra lever
to the front rather than rear brake.)
 
..Richard E+17
From: mack@risc.sps.mot.com (Gregg Mack)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: shimano 400ex question
Date: 26 Jan 1993 15:14:13 -0600
Organization: Motorola (Austin,TX)
NNTP-Posting-Host: ome.sps.mot.com

falcon@camelot.bradley.edu (D. Nathan Hood) writes:

>impossible... i have lost some muscle from my legs as a result of my
>cycling slowdown and find the lowest gear on the bike too high for my
>tastes... is there anyway that i can find out the largest cog i can put on
>the back to lower that gear and another question... for a 7 speed
>hyper-glide cogset what are some reccomended cog sizes for hilly riding...
>     ...       i am just wondering what sizes i should order and what the
>biggest i can go is..

I have two sets of 7-speed hyperglide cog cassettes.  One has a small cog
of 12 teeth and the large cog is 28 teeth.  The other cassette has the
smallest cog with 13 teeth and the largest cog has 32 teeth. 

Using that second cassette (with the 32 tooth cog) and my granny chainring
with 28 teeth, results in a really low 23.5" gear ratio.  

Those hyperglide cassettes were purchased at a local bike shop for about
US$20 each.

-- 
Gregg Mack                  ---------- __o       __o       __o       __o
gmack@paceline.sps.mot.com  -------- _`\<,_    _`\<,_    _`\<,_    _`\<,_
Motorola RISC uProcessors   ------- (*)/ (*)  (*)/ (*)  (*)/ (*)  (*)/ (*)
Austin, Texas  USA          ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tthiel@cs.uiuc.edu (Terry Thiel)
Subject: Re: LX DX XT XTR Confusion
Organization: University of Illinois, Dept. of Comp. Sci., Urbana, IL
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1993 00:38:04 GMT

ilh@lcs.mit.edu (Lee Hetherington) writes:
>Sorry Terry, I got my attributions wrong.  You weren't the one that
>came right out and said "92 LX sucked", but you were thinking it :-)
>Here is the quote that I was thinking about:

Coolness.

>Enough of me being a baby...I need to get up on the right side of the
>bed tomorrow.

I've pretty much had it with this discussion myself.  I only got back into
it becasue a number of people said DX is no longer made or spec'ed on new
bikes.  I'll resist the temptation next time.
-Terry
-- 
-Terry
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: pardo@cs.washington.edu (David Keppel)
Subject: Re: The Future of the Bike
Organization: Computer Science & Engineering, U. of Washington, Seattle
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 93 00:32:31 GMT

>>>>[acetylene lamps]

>pardo@cs.washington.edu (David Keppel) writes:
>>A friend has a collection of acetylene bike headlights, from the last
>> part of the last century.]

D.F.White@lut.ac.uk (Dave White) writes:
>They were not made until well into this century, most from the late
>20's to after the war.]

My mistake, I guess.  I thought they were a fair bit older. Ooops!

		;-D on  ( What a gas! )  Pardo
From: chandler@wc.novell.com (Mark Chandler)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Tire width question
Date: 21 Jan 93 17:08:25 GMT
Organization: Novell, Inc. - Walnut Creek

In article <1993Jan21.152633.18381@mcc.com> spencer@mcc.com (Steve Spencer) writes:
>I recently purchased a touring bike and I would like to install wider tires on it. 
>It currently has 27x1 inch tires on Mavic MA40 rims. What is the widest tire that
>will fit on this rim? I would like to put Michelin Hi Lite touring tires (27x1 3/8)
>on it. 

Let's put it this way, "How much clearance do your frame and brakes have?"
You can run 700x45C tires on these w/o problems (Bruce Gordon has been selling
bikes with this combination for years).  Mountain bikes used very fat (2"+)
tires on these rims also.  The Hi-Lite Tours (good tires, by the way) will
be no problem.

>
>Thanks,
>Steve  (spencer@mcc.com)



--
Mark Chandler              Novell, Inc.         510/975-4522
chandler@wc.novell.com     Walnut Creek, CA     AOL: Crosswords
===============================================================
   The opinions expressed above are mine, not my employer's.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: aviechec@dante.nmsu.edu (Alex Viechec)
Subject: Re: Avocet Computer sensor mount
Organization: New Mexico State University, Las Cruces, NM
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 17:11:10 GMT

I've been using an Avocet 30 for two years with no problems.  I have
the sensor mounted on the right fork dropout, and it has a slight amount
of play but like someone else said, the exact spacing is not that important.
I ride off-road pretty hard, with a few races now and then, and the 
sensor has pretty much stayed in the same place.  I also take my front
wheel off every day to lock my bike, and if you are the least bit careful
to take the wheel off straight you won't knock the sensor out of place.


Al the Pal
From: jwgst2+@pitt.edu (James W Gourgoutis)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Mathematics of gears and why 24-36-46 is bad
Date: 26 Jan 93 18:04:00 GMT
Organization: University of Pittsburgh

In article <C1GzM8.AKq@cen.ex.ac.uk> cs92mjd@cen.ex.ac.uk (M.J.Davis) writes:
>In article <1k1v10INNelh@darkstar.UCSC.EDU> haverl@cats.ucsc.edu (Carl A Haverl) writes:
>
>   >When I replaced the cranks on my mountain bike, the gearing changed
>   >from 26-36-46 to 24-36-46.  With the new chainwheels and chain, shifting
>   >from the smallest chainring was very difficult.  I generally had to

	Are you really sure about this?  Most of the Shimano cranksets that 
I've seen are available in only 2 types:  28-38-48 or 24-36-46.  Since 
24-36-46 is a stock set available from Shimano, I'm sure that there are 
thousands of bikes out there with this combination.  And They seem to work
okay.
	And then there's my bike, with 30-40-50 on the front, and it works
okay.
	Maybe you just mounted the chainring wrong?

(p.s., I'm kinda curious about this, since I want to replace that 30 on mine
with a 24 soon)
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
James Gourgoutis       				   
Mechanical Engineering                                O   
University of Pittsburgh                           _ /__,     
e-mail me at:  JWGST2@unixd.cis.pitt.edu          (_) /(_) 
	       or JWGST2@vms.cis.pitt.edu
Thanks!           			   "Why am I so late?  It took me 
					    25 minutes to decide which bike
					    to ride!"--me. 
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-       
-- 
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech