HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: abirenbo@rigel.cel.scg.hac.com (Aaron Birenboim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Starting yeast
Date: 8 Sep 92 15:58:54 GMT
Organization: Hughes Aircraft Colorado Engineering Labs

In article <jdecarlo.237.715625652@mitre.org> jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo) writes:
>In article <1992Sep2.122749@IASTATE.EDU>
> jessie@IASTATE.EDU (Brent Danielson) writes:
>
>>       Is 1.5 liters too much or too little?
>
>It is sort of on the large size, as 1 pint to 1 quart is fairly average.

i was just talking to my brewclub president, and his technique suprized me.
I was complaining of slow ferments, and he mentions that he gest most ales
in under a week and lagers in 2-3 weeks.  He will culture up to a vigerous
ferment in a 2-liter bottle, about 1-l of wort.  He will let this
ferment out, and drop yeast 2 or 3 times, pouring off liquid, and adding
fresh wort.  He will have around a cup or more of slurry in the
bottom at pitching time.  Then he shakes up all this slurry into
about a liter of wort to pitch.

>>       Is a 2 liter long-neck fask too small for this volume of liquid?

sounds prefect for the above technique.

>>       Is 24 hr long enough to allow the yeast to become active?

depends what you are starting from.  A single Colony?  WYEAST?
dry?

plan on at least 4 or five days if you want to run the culture through
a few times as described above.

>>       How important are yeast nutrients, and should these be boiled too?

i'm against them.

--
Aaron Birenboim                                |I am just too tired to think
abirenbo%rigel.cel.scg.hac.com@hac2arpa.hac.com|of a good quote.
abirenbo@isis.cs.du.edu                        |    - ChickenHead
w (303) 344-6486                               |
From: slndw@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Dr. "Pepper"
Date: 9 Sep 92 13:32:16 MDT
Organization: Utah State University

Howdy.

I just bottled a jalapeno beer last night.  I can't wait until it is
conditioned and carbonated.  It is a light brown bitter that I
added one garden fresh Jalapeno for about 45 minutes of the boil.
At this point, it has kind of a smooth flavor and it is not "hot" 
like a pepper.  It does have, however, a slight pepper finish.  I 
think it will be good with mexican food.  Next time I will try
two peppers.  I didn't want to make the first batch too strong
to drink, but I think two or even three would be good.  What I 
did was this:
Slice pepper in half.
Remove seeds (but leave membrane just inside the meat)
Boil.

I didn't want the seeds in my beer, and the membrane around
the seeds is where most of the heat is, not _IN_ the seeds.
When it is ready, I'll post about the heat/flavor.


-toot

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: tachaimov@hou.amoco.com (Tom Chaimov)
Subject: please post more recipies
Reply-To: tachaimov@hou.amoco.com (Tom Chaimov)
Organization: Amoco Production Company
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 15:09:45 GMT

I recall a while ago reading a posting that asked y'all to
post more recipies.  I haven't seen many.  As a rookie
brewer I'd love to see some of the simple recipies
some of you more experienced brewers brewed
successfully early on in your brewing excapades.

Thanks.


Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jacke@meaddata.com (Jack Eddington)
Subject: Re: Cajun cooker for cheap?
Organization: Mead Data Central, Dayton OH
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 16:14:37 GMT
Distribution: usa

us279764@mmm.serc.3m.com (Philip . Miller) writes:
>Okay all you Rocket-Motor-Camp-Cooker users:
>
>I'm looking for a >100,000 BTU Cajun Cooker/King Kooker type
>burner and I'd really like to spend less than $50.  Anybody know
>where I can get one?
>
I got mine from the Brewhaus in Tennesee. I also saw it advertised in the 
latest Zymurgy. In all cases its less than $50. If you don't have a phone
number for the Brewhaus or access to Zymurgy, e-mail me and I'll give you 
the info. Its at home now.



-- 
Jack Eddington -- jacke@meaddata.com  -- uunet!meaddata!jacke
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: gal2@ellis.uchicago.edu (Jacob Galley)
Subject: Re: Dr. "Pepper"
Reply-To: gal2@midway.uchicago.edu
Organization: University of Chicago Computing Organizations
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 18:32:53 GMT

In article <1992Sep9.133216.58735@cc.usu.edu> slndw@cc.usu.edu writes:
>It is a light brown bitter that I
>added one garden fresh Jalapeno for about 45 minutes of the boil.
>At this point, it has kind of a smooth flavor and it is not "hot" 
>like a pepper.  It does have, however, a slight pepper finish.

>What I did was this:
>Slice pepper in half.
>Remove seeds (but leave membrane just inside the meat)
>Boil.

I haven't tried this myself yet, but this sounds like a good way to get
a lot of the flavor of the pepper without the heat. If you're looking
for a really hot beer, I'd put one pepper (or maybe less) in the
primary, without boiling, in addition to the boiled pepper. Boiling
probably destroys / removes the hot oils in the pepper.

(Just a hunch, folks.)

Jake.
-- 
Reinheitsgebot <-- "Keep your laws off my beer!" <-- gal2@midway.uchicago.edu
From: John.DeCarlo@f131.n109.z1.fidonet.org (John DeCarlo)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: "Dry" Beer?
Date: Mon, 07 Sep 1992 09:14:29 -0500

On <Sep0708:14, Rich Gopstein (1:109/401) wrote:

 RG >How do the recent "dry" beers (Michelob, Bud, Molson, ...) differ
 RG >from non dry beers?  How would one home brew some?  Thanks.

Basically they just use a more attenuative yeast, which eats more of the sugars.
 You can get a similar effect by adding some yeast nutrient or amylase enzyme
(?) to your beer after primary fermentation is over, causing more fermentation
activity.
From: slndw@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: aluminum (more chatter)
Date: 14 Sep 92 10:15:48 MDT
Organization: Utah State University

In article <BuJq3B.Dq5@ddsw1.mcs.com>, arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) writes:
> devine@olympus.CS.Berkeley.EDU (bob devine) writes:
> : While aluminum has been discovered in greater than normal amounts
> : in brains of Alzheimer patients, the causal link has not been proven.
> : It is nearly impossible to eliminate contact with aluminum in today's
> : environment - anti-perspirant sprays have it, nearly all beverage cans
> : are aluminum, some kegs of beer are aluminum, and many restaurants use
> : aluminum even for high acid foods.
> : 
> : To put everyone into non-relaxed mode, a recent epidemological survey
> : of old men indicts high iron levels as a possible agent in causing
> : heart attacks.  The thinking is that up until menopause, the rate of
> : heart attacks in men and women is roughly equal but after the age of
> : menopause in women, men are more likely to suffer from heart attacks.
> : There is a great deal unknown here: effect of aspirin on heart attack
> : reduction, lifestyle differences, etc.
> : 
> : Let's see ... can't use aluminum (possible Alzheimer link) or iron/steel
> : (possible heart attack link), I guess that leaves Tupperware!  ;-)
> : 
> 
> Well, I guess I have to break more bad news.  Most bird lovers are
> aware of the evils of the new teflon like coating on pans but few
> other people have even heard of the problem.  If you heat one of these
> pans in the presence of a caged bird , it will die by the time the temp
> in the pan gets to about 300F.  What happens to humans in the same room
> one can only conjecture but I have switched back to cast iron.. oops ..
> just go a heart murmer.
> 


DuPont no longer makes this type of teflon because it is so dangerous.
The problem was only with heating an empty pan, which ruins the coating
anyhow, and the tetra flora ethelene (??) (teflon) vapor got into the 
air.  The "new improved" teflon is, suposedly, safer, and has been
made for several years now.

As far as the "causal link" between Al and Alzheimers, the tobacco
industry still professes that the "causal link" between smoking
and lung disease has not been found.  In fact a "causal link" is
almost impossible to find because there will always be other factors
involved that may or may not affect the study.  Nothing can ever
be proven beyond all doubt.  

If you drink any beverage out of aluminum cans I feel sure you are
ingesting more aluminum than you will from drinking beer brewed
in aluminum pots.  Of course, perhaps we should all be brewing in
teflon coated iron pots and stir with aluminum spoons just to make
sure we are getting enough metals.  And make sure to break your
murcury thermometer in the brew at least once a month!!

-toot

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jeq@i88.isc.com (Jonathan E. Quist)
Subject: Re: aluminum brew kettle
Organization: INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation, Naperville, IL
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 15:57:40 GMT

In article <01050166.dduu8t@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us> joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us writes:
>Those of you fortunate enough to possess a suitable aluminum pot will
>also note that the wort absolutely will not burn on the bottom of
>the pot.  Well, maybe if you whip out the Cajun cooker.  IMHO this
>is a very nice feature of aluminum pots that could be duplicated in
>stainless steel only by the very expen$ive addition of a thick copper
>lozenge in the bottom of the pot.

The poor man's solution is to get a heat diffuser from a kitchen gadget
store; the cheap ones don't completely prevent burning, but will
help quite a bit.  (If you wanted to get fancy, you could probably cut
a round of aluminum plate to fit under your kettle for fairly cheap.)
-- 
Jonathan E. Quist                              INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation
jeq@i88.isc.com  '71 CL450-K4 "Gleep", DoD #094        Naperville, IL
        There are many things a person should experience in a lifetime.
       Among them are an infant's first cry, and an infant's first laugh.
From: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us (Joseph Nathan Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: That Yummy Malt Flavor
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 92 21:01:11 EDT
Organization: 5 Sigma Software
Reply-To: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us
X-Mailer: uAccess - Macintosh Release: 1.5v5


In article <binkley.716569807@beagle> (rec.crafts.brewing), binkley@boulder.Colorado.EDU (Jon Binkley) writes:
) 
) Assuming you're mashing at the proper temps to leave lots
) of unfermentables, the next most important consideration
) is yeast attenuation.  Wyeast has two good ones with low
) attenuation: their European Ale yeast and the Bohemian Lager
) yeast.  I've used both with great success.

I do not think that the semi-sweet, caramely, yummy round malt flavor 
derives from the yeast.  The mouthfeel and body will certainly be affected
by the attenuative properties of the yeast.  While esters may
mask the malt flavor slightly, I don't think that yeast converts malt
flavor into esters.

I've tried about 1/2 of the Wyeast catalog at this point, including
the two yeasts you mention.  "It ain't the yeast."

Neither do I have a problem mashing for a particular starting or terminal
gravity.  In fact, I am frequently surprised how well my guesses at
terminal gravities come out, considering that my only clues are
grist composition, mashing temperature profile, and yeast.

Finally, diacetyl is not the characteristic I am looking for, although
it may be present as an important secondary flavor in some of these beers.

) One more thing- a pound or so of Munich malt is always good
) for malt flavor.

Yes, true, but one of my yummiest beers featured three pounds of Munich,
three pounds of unmalted barley (but nary a chill haze), and
six pounds of English pale malt, plus 8 oz. crystal for added color.
The "yummy malt flavor" evident in the beers I listed earlier was
just not there, despite OG of about 1.060.  The beer was definitely American 
in style, and was as good as any brewpub/micro/bottled American strong 
pale I've had.  It just didn't have that other-side-of-the-pond malt 
flavor to it.

I think I will try to find some of that Belgian malt that George Fix
has been raving about in HBD.

The other possibility is that perhaps I need a long, caramelizing
boil.  My sparging procedure is such that I usually wind up adding
at least a gallon of water to my primary after just a 1 hour boil,
even for beers of OG 1.065 or so.  I suppose I could keep it boiling
for another hour or so, though.  Is pronounced caramelization 
during the boil characteristic of the production of Scotch Ales or
Oktoberfests, for example?

uunet!joebloe!joseph   (609) 273-8200 day   joseph%joebloe@uunet.uu.net
v   v  sssss | Certified Guru: all-grain brewing,| 2102 Ryan's Run East
 v v  s   s  | C, synthesizer comp & arranging,  | Rt 38 & 41
  v    sss   | photography. Also not a bad cook. | Maple Shade NJ 08052
-----My employer isn't paying for this, and my opinions are my own-----
From: H.Regan@bradford.ac.uk (H REGAN)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Filters for clairity?
Date: 9 Sep 92 19:07:15 GMT
Organization: University of Bradford, UK
Originator: 90465160@muser


I filter my beer's on primary to secondry. I simply syphon it
through a tea-towel which rests in sieve. I know lots of people
will shout about introducing oxegen into the ferment, but I don't
seem to suffer any form of stuck ferment.

The nice thing is I get lovely clear high gravity pale ales using
this crude trick.

And speaking of lovely high gravity pale ale, is anybody else
out there a fan of TAYLORS LANDLORD (brewed in Kiethly, West Yorkshire
England)?

Regards

Helen
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: peterm@dtc.hp.com (Sweet Pete)
Subject: mold on my brew - help!
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 17:00:07 GMT
Organization: Where No Man Has Gone Before

My secondary has been sitting for about a week and I notice there is some
mold floating on the surface.  Is this likely to be serious?  Should I ditch
the batch?

This was made from a kit and I used only one can (3.75 lbs) and no added
sugar so the alcohol is pretty low.  Does this contribute to the likelihood
of mold forming?  I've never had this problem before.

Any advice would be welcomed.

	Peter
-- 
Peter C. Maxwell,                      ARPA:   peterm@dtc.hp.com
Hewlett-Packard Company,
5301 Stevens Creek Blvd, MS 53U/36,    UUCP:   ..!hplabs!hpdtlpm!peterm
Santa Clara, CA 95052-8059             (408) 553 2512
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: pcj1@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu (Pierre Jelenc)
Subject: Re: ROACHES !
Reply-To: pcj1@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu (Pierre Jelenc)
Organization: Columbia University
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 1992 22:00:27 GMT

In article <1992Sep4.155455.21350@news.nd.edu> ulick@angelico.helios.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford) writes:
>
>Also sold as Borax for laundery.  After spreding some n mule team Borax
>(where n is a number I can't remember) between the window and storm
>window and between the door and screen door, ants stopped coming in.
>Now if only I could prevent fleas with something other than a 
>disjusting spray that causes the cats to puke when they lick temselves.
>

Borax is sodium borate, not boric acid. Neither has worked on my roaches.

Pierre



Pierre Jelenc                        pcj1@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu 
                                    Columbia University, New York
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: rp9780@mexico (Rudyard A K Porter)
Subject: Re: cost of a carboy
Organization: Medtronic, Inc.
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 22:40:42 GMT

amcmicha@gmuvax2.gmu.edu (Andrew McMichael) writes:
: -->
: [andy@comp.vuw.ac.nz (Andy Bond)] asks:
: What does a new 5 or 6 gallon carboy go for in the US?  I can get one
: here for about NZ$75 which is ahh, something like, ummm US$40
: -->
: 
: A 5 gallon carboy [Sparkletts water bottle-type] goes for about
: $10/US here in the Washington D.C. area.

OOOOO...OOOOO OOOOOOO!!!

OOO...!! I think I found the cheeeeaaaappppest one!

At our local bottled water place, Glenwood/Englewood,
I can buy them for US$6.95 unfilled for the ones that may have a slight
chip one the OUTSIDE of the bottle and US$7.95 unfilled for the 
new ones. Filled with great midwest aquifer (sp?) water, add US$5.

I have 5 right now and I love them all (ad nauseum...)

--
*******************************************************************************
Rudyard Anderson Knox Porter             *  Life's but a stumbling shadow,
rp9780@medtronic.com                     *  Full of sounds of beer glasses,
Minneapolis, Minnesota                   *  Signifying everything!  
                                         *     1st draft, MacBeth
*******************************************************************************
















Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: esharp@sage.cc.purdue.edu (Edwin Sharp)
Subject: Ceramic pots
Organization: Purdue University Computing Center
Distribution: all
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 1992 21:48:51 GMT

 I am looking at buying a ceramic on steel pot.  any suggestions?
Esharp@sage.cc.purdue.edu
From: kevin@alsvid.une.edu.au (Kevin Pollard)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Brewing environment.
Date: 14 Sep 92 04:19:10 GMT
Organization: University of New England - Northern Rivers (Lismore)

How important in the immediate enviroment the fermenter is in?
I done quite a few brews lately and all appeared OK except one
which I had the fermenter in an old bathroom. This bathroom isn't
in use but there's quite a lot of mildew etc growing on the ceiling.

I try to pay a lot of attention to hygiene, but I've never given much 
thought to the actual fermentation room before.

Am I correct in suspecting the room as being the source of infection?
It was a closed fermenter, though I did open it once in the room - only
when initally adding the yeast though.

-- 
Kevin Pollard			Internet:	kevin@alsvid.une.edu.au
Programmer/Analyst		Phone:		+61 (066) 203969
Registrar's Division - University of New England, Lismore NSW Australia
From: esharp@sage.cc.purdue.edu (Edwin Sharp)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: hop aroma
Date: 14 Sep 92 00:21:37 GMT
Organization: Purdue University Computing Center

What would be the best type of hops to use for covering up an unpleasant smell?  I was thinking perhaps Saaz, as it has a great smell.  

******************************************************************************* All animals are strictly dry, they sinless live and swiftly die.
But sinful, Ginful, beer soaked man survives three score years and ten
                                                -origin unknown-
*******************************************************************************
Edwin Sharp
esharp@sage.cc.purdue.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: malodah@pbhyf.PacBell.COM (Martin A. Lodahl)
Subject: So _THAT'S_ What They Think "Beer" Is ...
Reply-To: malodah@PacBell.COM (Martin A. Lodahl)
Organization: Pacific * Bell, San Ramon, CA
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 01:13:19 GMT


You know, after a while, we beer-geeks sort of lose touch with the generic
American concept of "beer".  It's been a month since I tasted a Bud Dry,
and it had been a long, long time before that since I'd really "connected"
with an American Light Lager.  A cousin passed through town a couple
nights ago, though, and left four bottles of Coors "Cutter" no-alcohol
"beer" in my 'fridge.  As it had been 25 years since I'd seen him last,
I really doubt he'll come back for them any time soon.

I got to thinking:  Coors is big on market research.  No-alcohol beer
is extraordinarily difficult to do well, and much more than decaf coffee
is really just a pointer to the "real thing".  Therefore, the flavor 
of Coors Cutter may well represent the taste that most Americans
register as "beer" ...

It's DMS!!  Dimethyl-goddam-sulfide!  The hops were just detectable,
which is more than can be said for the malt, but the DMS just came
roaring through.  Is that REALLY what most Americans look for in
a beer??

-- 
= Martin A. Lodahl    [DoD, AHA, NRA]  Systems Analyst, Pacific*Bell =
= malodah@PacBell.COM		Sacramento, CA, USA     916.972.4821 =
= If it's good for ancient Druids, runnin' nekkid through the wuids, =
= Drinkin' strange fermented fluids, it's good enough for me!!  8-)} =
From: nate@ghidrah.Central.Sun.COM (Nate McConnell FE/SSE Grand Rapids, MI)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Lager fermentation
Date: 11 Sep 92 09:53:07 GMT
Reply-To: nate@ghidrah.Central.Sun.COM
Distribution: usa
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
NNTP-Posting-Host: ghidrah.central.sun.com


I just started not my first lager but the first one that I'm fermenting at a 
low temp (~44F).  I've had the yeast in since Monday (4 days) and doesn't seem to 
be doing anything.  I was figuring on fermenting it for a month or so but shouldn't 
something be happening?  

I've got a lot of sediment on the bottom, about 2 inches, could the yeast have 
sunk to the bottom of this and died!?

If I'm just worrying too much let me know.

Please email responses, or email and post if you think others will benefit.

thanks,
nate
From: bf703@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Patrick J. Volkerding)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: REQUEST: Cider Recipes
Date: 5 Sep 1992 07:03:04 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: bf703@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Patrick J. Volkerding)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, dcb@rosedale.uucp (Dave Breneman) says:
[about making cider from apple juice or apple juice concentrate]

>I've never tried this, and I've never heard of anybody doing it either.
>Apple juice is by definition pasteurized, usually contains
>"preservatives" (to kill the yeast) and may be reconstituted as 
>well, so for all intents and purposes its dead. 

I've made some very tasty cider from grocery store cheap-o cider
and cider concentrates. The store I go to has 4 or 5 brands, none
of which contain preservatives or additives. I usually get whatever's
darkest, figuring that will have the most flavor. 

Here's an easy, tasty cider recipe (yum, yum) :^)  :

Get a 1 gallon jug of apple cider with no preservatives. Open it up
and pour out 12 ounces into a glass. Dump a melted Seneca Granny Smith
apple juice concentrate in the jug. Add a small amount of ale yeast. I
use about a half teaspoon of Whitbread Ale yeast. I found wine yeasts
produced a cider which was too dry. 

Cap the jug and shake the hell out of it to airate the cider. Replace
the cap with a size 8 1/2 stopper (well, that's what mine takes...) with
a piece of syphon hose stuck in it. Stick the loose end in a glass of
water and let it ferment until clear. This takes a month or so with no
yeast nutrient added, but I think the final product is better.

Prime with .15 cup of corn sugar (dextrose) or .1 cup table sugar 
(sucrose) and bottle it up.

I usually let this condition for at least a month, and then suck it all
down in a wild frenzy ;^)

Enjoy!

Pat Volkerding
volkerdi@mhd1.moorhead.msus.edu
From: arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: aluminum brew kettle
Date: 15 Sep 92 14:30:36 GMT
Organization: ddsw1.MCS.COM Contributor, Chicago, IL

In article <1992Sep14.155740.19555@i88.isc.com> jeq@i88.isc.com (Jonathan E. Quist) writes:
>In article <01050166.dduu8t@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us> joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us writes:
>>Those of you fortunate enough to possess a suitable aluminum pot will
>>also note that the wort absolutely will not burn on the bottom of
>>the pot.  Well, maybe if you whip out the Cajun cooker.  IMHO this
>>is a very nice feature of aluminum pots that could be duplicated in

That is a very interesting fact that I was not aware of.  As I do kettle mashingI am   I am rather sensitive to scorching and the need to stir regularly.
>The poor man's solution is to get a heat diffuser from a kitchen gadget
>store; the cheap ones don't completely prevent burning, but will
>help quite a bit.  (If you wanted to get fancy, you could probably cut
>a round of aluminum plate to fit under your kettle for fairly cheap.)
a
Roger.  I found a wierd one the the junk that came with my house and have
found it most useful for lots of things and it more or less solves the 
problem of mashing on the stove.

It looks like tow low profile pie tins, face to face with a zillion holes
and a handle that long ago burned off.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing