HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: vln@icpsr.umich.edu (Victoria Neff)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Re: What I Unlearned about Spinning
Date: 19 Nov 1992 17:30:30 GMT
Organization: Inter-University Consortium for Political and Social Research
NNTP-Posting-Host: tdis.icpsr.umich.edu

In article <1992Nov19.100459.52599@gmuvax.gmu.edu> sbowen@gmuvax.gmu.edu writes:
>
>This past Monday, I took a spinning tutorial with my friend and local
>spinning instructor, Karl. His approach is to teach production spinning and
>leave historical accuracy to the authenticity police.

All right!  :-)

>The upshot was that he exploded several myths about spinning for me and I
>thought I should share them.

Thanks for sharing all these tips with us!

>Myth 2 - Treadle slowly and evenly.
>
>Yes, treadle evenly but to spin fast, treadle FAST. Karl was treadling so
>fast that the drive band (I think it was the drive band) was buzzing and
>the spokes of the wheel were a blur.

Well....  Treadle EVENLY (as long as you're not picking out a nep or something,
that seems reasonable).  How fast you treadle is DIRECTLY a result of WHAT
you are spinning, and what equipment you are using.  I noticed one time at
one of my spinning meetings that EVERYONE was treadling a LOT faster than
I was.  I DO have a tendency to spin too loosely, so I've speeded up a bit.
However.  They were/are mostly using Louets, which have VERY low ratios, 
mostly, and I spin on my LeClerc at 16:1.  Each time I treadle, I get about
double the twist they get for one treadle.

Then there's how thin your yarn is.  Thin yarns need more twist, so this
could affect your treadling speed.  

Then there's how fast you can keep up with (hope the grammar police aren't
looking!  :-)  )!  I can see that "treadle slowly and evenly" could be
great advice for a beginner.....

>Myth 4 - Too much twist is bad.
>
>Karl memtioned that by the time you wash the yarn to set the twist, ply
>the yarn, then knit or weave the yarn, over-twist is a disappearing issue.
>Ideally, the yarn should leap into two-ply twists when you move your hand
>with the fiber toward the flyer.

Hmmm.  Well, there ARE some very interesting things made from EXTREMELY
twisted yarns in some old Spin-Offs I have, but you CAN twist the yarn so
tightly that it's hard and wouldn't be best used for some things (soft scarf,
say).  Generally speaking, I agree that a bit more twist is better.  Certainly
for me -- I like my finished yarns better when I spin them more tightly than I
think I should as I'm spinning....

(does he really advocate setting twist before plying?  I'm curious about this!)

>IMHO, I now can spin ~ 50% faster and even produce thinner yarn, 

All right!  How exciting!  Lucky you, to have such a good teacher available!
It's certainly a good idea to examine "the rules" in any endeavor from time
to time, to see if they still make any sense....



Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: polowin@chem.queensu.ca (Joel Polowin)
Subject: Re: Copying patterns
Organization: Dept. of Chemistry, Queen's University
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 21:42:38 GMT

In article <1992Nov18.163125.1268@wri.com> jeffa@wri.com writes:

>> My sister is using baby bonnets to decorate her daughters bedroom.  I
>> wanted to cross stitch or embroider a baby bonnet for her, and have searched
>> the stores for a pattern.  I would appreciate any pointers or copies of
>> a pattern to use.

>I do not mean to start a flame war or anything, but are you aware that  
>copying a pattern and giving it to someone else is illegal?

Depends who owns the rights to the pattern.  Copying something commercial
and giving it or selling it to someone else is probably a violation of
copyright, depending on what the designer of the pattern has stated.  Some
patterns are released into the public domain.  (Don't count on any particular
pattern being public-domain; look for a clear statement of release.)  And
of course anyone who wants to is free to send their own patterns to whomever
they like.

Joel Polowin
polowin@silicon.chem.queensu.ca, polowin@chem.queensu.ca,
 polowinj@qudcn.queensu.ca
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: bkt@blacks.jpl.nasa.gov (Barrie Trinkle)
Subject: Re: ball-winding
Organization: Image Analysis Systems Group, JPL
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 23:55:07 GMT

liz@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us (Liz Allen) writes:

>I used to wind my yarn into a ball and then stopped.  What advantage
>is it?  Now I just pull from the inside of the skein and that seems
>to work fine -- and saves the work of making the ball.  ;-)

Well, I've made some hellish tangled messes of skeins trying to
do it your way--that's the only "advantage" I know of to winding a ball.
But I'm a slob and my yarn sits around in piles for long periods of time,
so I can't really blame the skeins.  YMMV.
--
--------------------------------------------------------------------
..nothing is so fatal to maidenly delicacy of speech as the run of 
a good library.
				Robertson Davies, _Tempest Tost_
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: Jeff Adams
Subject: Re: Copying patterns
Reply-To: jeffa@wri.com
Organization: Wolfram Research, Inc.
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 16:41:01 GMT

In article <1992Nov18.221824.24089@netcom.com> shannah@netcom.com (Teri Miller)  
writes:
.
> As stated, this is incorrect.  For example, what if I create my own 
> pattern, and decide to simply *give* a copy to someone?  I have made
> my own patterns before (a 3D stained glass elephant, for example) and
> I cannot imagine any law anywhere that says it's illegal for me to have
> given the elephant away, or for me to have given the pattern away.
> 
> If you know of one, please feel free to correct me.
> 
> I think it's important to keep in mind the legality of one's actions,
> but I would find it more valuable to hear about specific statutes, or
> references to law books, than vague declarations.

Quite true, I stand corrected on my vagueness.  I should say that any  
commercially purchased cross-stitch pattern (besides those explicitly stated as  
being public domain) cannot be photocopied and given to a second individual.

Let me clarify that I am by no means jumping on the original poster with the  
idea that I think she is expecting an illegal copy of a cross-stitch pattern.   
I am simply expounding on an original phrase "I would appreciate any pointers  
or copies of a pattern to use" which to me is in fact somewhat vague and to  
some degree allows for the possibility of someone photocopying a commercially  
purchased product.   

I am no law degree major, but I am aware of the rights of a commercial artist  
and their copyright laws which are written to protect them.  These laws protect  
commercial musical, video and yes, cross-stitch artists.

Perhaps I should have started a new thread expounding on the currently known  
abuses of some online systems, like Prodigy, where it is known that  
cross-stitch users are using the system to illegally exchange commercial  
patterns by sending each other copies.

The reason for my first post was simply to remind users of the potential legal  
issues of copying commercial designs.

Whether I have stated my viewpoints above in a perfectly legal fashion is not  
the issue (and reason for more flames), the point is, is that we are all  
intelligent enough out there to realize that there seems to exist a growing  
potential (and in some cases a reality) of the use of networks to proliferate  
illegal transactions by its users, and all I was attempting to do is remind  
users of this danger.
 

--------------------------------
Jeff Adams
jeffa@wri.com    
Wolfram Research Inc.
--------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: pmorgan@kean.ucs.mun.ca
Subject: RE: Stitchery Legal Question
Organization: Memorial University. St.John's Nfld, Canada
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 19:04:38 GMT

I can't say for certain about American copyright law, although I suspect
it is very close to Canadian in this regard:
Copyright lasts for the life of the author/creator plus fifty years, and 
then the item falls into public domain.  This is for print material (i.e. 
books and magazines, and I would suspect, printed patterns.)  To my mind, 
and this is by no means a legal interpretation, a painting which had been 
done by an artist who had been dead for over fifty years would be public 
domain and you would be free to adapt the painting into your own pattern.  
I believe you would also then be free to copyright the PATTERN, but not  
the painting.

Pam Morgan
Health Sciences Library
Memorial University of Newfoundland
Canada
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: paul.ribeiro@rose.com (paul ribeiro)
Subject: Punching
Organization: Rose Media Inc, Toronto, Ontario.
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 00:37:53 GMT
X-Gated-By: Usenet <==> RoseMail Gateway (v1.70)


Date Entered: 11-19-92 19:30
R > From my personal experience, the thing that helped me the most was 
when I
R > finally learned toput my fabric into the hoop -backwards- and punched into
R > fabric on the inside of the hoop (instead of punching the fabric from the 
R > outside or top like you do with regular embroidery).  This makes it so much
R > easier to keep the fabric in the hoop when you punch - and the "right side"
R > of the finished product is on the out side of the hoop.  Punch embroidery
R > goes pretty fast for me and you don't have to be picky about rows or stitches-
R > it is OK to punch over stitches that are already there and it still looks
R > great.
R > 
R > Randy  

That's very interesting.  I'll have to give that a try and see how it 
works.  I did my second project.  My first was not really very good at 
all.  The second came out much better.  I am making a clock for my 
father-in-law and punched the design.  I just have to put the clock 
together now.  I had problems with the needle stopping to punch even 
if there was enough slack on the thread.  I still haven't figured out 
what happened and why it did that.  I tried pulling the thread back 
and then redoing it, after I closed up the holes and it still wouldn't 
work.  If I started over again from another area and then worked my 
way back to that spot it worked.  I have NO idea what the problem was. 

I also found the material I used on the first one I tried was not as 
good as the material I used on the second one.  I think that might 
have a lot to do with the success of the second project in relation to 
the first.  I still have a LONG way to go but I think I am encouraged 
that I might actually get there.

I was wondering what you do if the design you are going to make is 
bigger than the hoop you have.  I haven't seen hoops larger than 10" 
and I have this design of a cardinal I want to make for my 
mother-in-law for Christmas and it's about 14" x 10".  Any help would 
be appreciated and thanks for the response.

/Rochelle 
---
   RoseReader 1.70 R001193: Anything is possible if only you believe.
   RM 2.00 : RoseNet<=>Usenet Gateway : Rose Media 416-733-2285
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles,alt.sewing
From: Anne Louise Gockel <alg@cs.cornell.edu>
Subject: Star of France Quilt Pattern
Reply-To: alg@cs.cornell.edu
Organization: Cornell Univ. CS Dept, Ithaca NY 14853
Distribution: rec
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 17:49:42 GMT

Mailed-Date: Mon, 16 Nov 92 12:49:22 -0500
News-Relay: @cloyd.cs.cornell.edu

I am very interested in finding a copy of a 1930's quilt pattern called Star
of France.  According to my sources, this pattern was designed by H. Ver
Mehren's Home Art Studio in Des Moines Iowa and was pattern #151.  
information this time.

The pattern is a 4 pointed star (Lone Star type) set on the diagonal with a
circular piece in the center and fan-like embellishments between the 4 points.
The pattern is based on a military medal from the Nepoleonic period.  I have
seen a picture of a single quilt that was made in yellow, gold and rust.  This
picture has been published in at least 4 places, including: _Treasury of
American Quilts_ by Nelson and Houck, the 1982 Quilt Engagement Calendar,
_Twentieth Century Quilts_ by Woodward and Greenstein and _Shining Star
Quilts_ by Judy Martin.

If you know of any place that this pattern has been reprinted or any place
that sells the old Home Art Studio patterns, please let me know.  I am
prepared to draft the pattern from scratch if need be, but I would prefer to
find a copy of the original.

I asked the net about this pattern over 2 years ago with no response; I'm
hoping to get a response or two this time as the textile groups have expanded
considerably.

                                        -Anne
Anne Louise Gockel                      Cornell Computer Science
Internet: alg@cs.cornell.edu            UUCP: cornell!alg
USMail: 681 Old Stage Rd. Groton, NY 13073
From: lindam@tardigrade.Eng.Sun.COM (Linda McAllister)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Re: advice: dressmaker's dummy
Date: 18 Nov 1992 21:27:34 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Mt. View, Ca.
NNTP-Posting-Host: tardigrade

In article <tamitha.721581674@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu> tamitha@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Tamitha Carpenter) writes:
>
>If you can find one of the older styles of dress forms, it would
>solve that problem.  My mom has one, and it's basically a bunch
>of semi-flexible black wires, hooked together forming diamonds,
>which in turn form a torso and hips.  It has snaps up the front 
>and back, and you put it on (it's terribly uncomfortable, even 
>over a leotard) and fit it to yourself.  When your body shape 
>changes, you just repeat the process.  The one my mom has is 
>called "my double", but I'm pretty sure that company now makes 
>the silly dial-a-body forms that fit patterns, not people.
>
I'll second that.  While it does sort of look like a low-budget medieval torture
instrument (a Chicken-wire Maiden?), it fits just about any shape.  What's more,
it can be loaned to all sizes and shapes of friends, and readjusted in minutes.
It's not as easy to pin material to it as some of the newer styles, but it
can be done.  I haven't had any problems with fabric snagging on the wires yet.

I remember seeing ads for them in the late 60s, but I've never seen a new one.

>I don't know where you'd find one, except by haunting yard sales
>and second-hand stores.  Good luck.

A co-worker found one for me in a thrift shop.  Best $7 I ever spent on sewing
supplies.

If you ever find one for sale, buy it, even if you don't want it.  You
can always find someone willing to take it off your hands.


lm
From: mcm@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Re: smocking questions
Date: 18 Nov 92 07:21:44 CST
Organization: University of Kansas Academic Computing Services

In article <9211052216.AA13246@marny.Corp.Sun.COM>, Marina.Salume@corp.sun.com (Marina Salume) writes:
>>1) The first piece I learned on was an English lawn.  It was wonderful
>>to work with.  Now, I'm working on a piece of thick Hoffman cotton and
>>I'm finding that the needle doesn't glide through the fabric that
>>easily. 
> 
> I haven't done much smocking, but I know there are needles out there
> that are smaller in size, but have larger eyes. (Same for machine sewing
> needles.) I have no idea what they are called, but try checking the
> needle racks and comparing them to the one you are using. It makes sense that
> you'd need a larger needle for heavier fabric, actually.
> 
>>2) I'm using perle cotton.  That is what the teacher suggested in the
>>class that I took.  She gave some reason why she used perle cotton
>>over DMC thread, but I don't remember her reasoning.
> 
> Most patterns I've seen use cotton floss, but perle cotton has a more
> raised look to it and will show up better on a printed fabric, especially.
> A teacher of crazy quilting around here, Susan Schwarting, using perle
> cotton almost exclusively for that reason. Also, it's shinier and she
> likes that look on a fancy piece of crazy quilting.
> 
> --marina
Traditionally, you are told to use a crewel 8 for 3 threads of DMC on a medium
weight cotton.  When doing picture smocking (stacked cables) you should use 4
pieces of floss and use a crewel 7 needle.  The 7's are longer and fatter and
have a bigger eye.  You might try the 7's first and then try a 6 and see what
you think.  I expect that a crewel needle of some size is what you need.  I am
smocking a picture on thick, double sided flannel for my kids.  I am using 7's
and it has worked fine, although 6's might have been a better idea.  You want
the eye of the needle to make a big enough hole to allow the floss or whatever
to get through without becoming frayed.  Have fun.  I'll have to try perle
cotton next. 

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: panderse@nyx.cs.du.edu (Patricia Andersen)
Subject: Cross stitch stores in Philadelphia
Organization: Nyx, Public Access Unix @ U. of Denver Math/CS dept.
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 92 21:44:08 GMT



Hi all

I'm planning on visiting Philadelphia on Dec. 5-8 and would like
any hints on where to go for the best in cross-stitch.  Please
e-mail to me and I'll summarize if there is any interest.

Patty Andersen
pandersn@silver.sdsmt.edu
standard disclaimer applies


Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: ljensen@ferris.cray.com (Laura Jensen)
Subject: Re: poncho
Summary: Pattern based on medallion
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 20 Nov 92 11:52:26 CST

Well, this is a guess: you may want to shapings to be different.
What I think you want to do is knit a medallion (Mary Thomas' knitting
books, I think the patterns book, has a section on this) starting
out from the center.  So instead of starting, say, a hexagonal 
medallion from 6 stitches and increasing 6 stitches every other row, 
you would cast on a multiple of six stitches, _based on your gauge_, 
with markers at the 1/6 points, and increase one stitch before each 
marker every other row.  This will give a spiral effect to the 
increases, which you may like.  If you don't want the spiral, alternate 
increasing before and after the markers on the increase rows.  
Continue until it's the correct length, and cast off with a lace or 
other edging.  This is important - you don't want the edge of the 
poncho to have a tight cast-off edge.  You may 
want to block the poncho like a lace shawl: wash and pin it out
on the carpet over a sheet, stretching the knitting. But beware; if
this will make the garment considerably bigger than the on-needle
size.

If you want a circular poncho rather than a polygonal one, look
at Elizabeth Zimmermann's pi shawl, discussed in her books (I forget 
which one) and in the shawls issues of Knitters (Fall 1987?).  Again 
you would start from the middle of the pattern.  Elizabeth's 
_Wool Gatherings_ newsletter recently had two very pretty lace
poncho patterns.  If you want a hood, cast on invisibly for the 
poncho, finish the body of the poncho, then pick up the cast-on 
stitches and knit the hood up.  IF you don't want a hood, knit 
the collar before you start the medallion increases.  

You could knit your name in Fair-Isle into the inside neckband
of the poncho!  Then the next person who finds it may be able
to find you!

Happy knitting - Laura
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: sfysh@epas.utoronto.ca (Stephanie Moskal Fysh)
Subject: Rowan weekends
Organization: University of Toronto - EPAS
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 17:49:10 GMT

I'm thinking about fitting a Rowan knitting weekend (intermediate
level) into a trip to Britain next summer.  Has anyone been on one?
Was it good?  How expensive was it?  What is the difference between
the intermediate and advanced levels in skills you're expected to
already have?

-- 
Stephanie Moskal Fysh    |   "Things are only impossible until they're not"  
Dept. of English         |                             - Jean-Luc Picard
Univ. of Toronto         |   "Lager: the only thing that can kill a vindaloo"
(sfysh@epas.utoronto.ca) |                             - Dave Lister
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: riggle@adobe.com (Kathleen Riggle)
Subject: Burda Magazines
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 22:12:03 GMT

Carol Topp (ctopp@cup.portal.com) was unable to post this here, so she
asked me to.

---------------------

Last spring I was asking about receiving special burda
magazines-specifically baby and maternity issues. I received the
maternity and one of the baby boutique, although something happened to
the second one in the mail. They are supposed to send it out. I
currently don't consider this a strike against the US supplier.

The reason for my posting is I just got a mailing from them that
lists all of their publications (They are GLP International, A
division of German Language Publications, Inc. - more info to
follow). I will share the listings of fashion and needlecraft
offerings. They have several languages available. All are
available in English unless otherwise noted.

Magazine                             issues/year      price

Burda                                    12            $60
Burda Fashions for small Children
           (Ages 2-6)                     2            $15
Burda Easy Sewing                         4            $30
Burda Fashions for Boys and Girls
           (Ages 7-14)                    2            $15
Burda International
           (German with English Supp)     2            $25
Burda Miss B                              4            $30
Burda Fashion Separates                   2            $15
Burda Fashions for the Fuller Figure      4            $30

Carina (German only)                     12            $60
Elle/German                              12            $110
Harper's Bazaar/German                   12            $120
Neue Mode (German with Eng Supplement)   12            $60
Verena German                            12            $60

Under Needlework -

Anna                                     12            $40
Burda Baby Knits                          2            $15
Burda Baby Boutique                       2            $15
Sandra                                   12            $36
Sandra Children's Knits                   2            $10
Sandra Men's Knits                        1            $5
Strick und Schick                        12            $40

Sample copies are available for the single copy price plus up to $1.00.
I don't see a listing for a maternity Burda. I made several dresses
from the patterns in that publication.

For more information, contact;

GLP International
A Division of German Language Publications, Inc.
P.O. Box 9868
Englewood NJ 07631-1123

212 736-7455 or 201 871-1010.

I post this to spread information to all the pattern collectors -many
patterns in a nice neat magazine for only $5 and issue (or more for
specialty ones). I do not gain from any business with GLP.

The baby Boutique set has sewing, knitting, cross stitch, etc patterns.
The regular magazine and the maternity issue were all sewing. I am
not at all familiar with the non Burda publications listed above (
but I am curious if anyone knows about them).

Carol
---------------------------
-- 
riggle@adobe.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: esh2@po.CWRU.Edu (Evelyn S. Hlabse)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Columbia Minerva yarn
Date: 19 Nov 1992 15:23:09 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: esh2@po.CWRU.Edu (Evelyn S. Hlabse)
NNTP-Posting-Host: thor.ins.cwru.edu


I would love some help in locating someplace that has
Columbia Minerva yarn.  I live in the Cleveland, Ohio
area. An address for the company or a catalog source
would be most helpful.  Thanks in advance for the help.

Evelyn
-- 

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles