HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: doshay@ursa.arc.nasa.gov (David Doshay)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Recommendations on a Wood Book
Date: 7 Apr 92 23:24:45 GMT
Article-I.D.: news.1992Apr7.232445.9761
Organization: NASA-Ames Biocomputation Center

In article <1992Mar30.213912.26988@bnr.ca>, jabarnes@batph5.bnr.ca (Jeff Barnes) writes:
|> I am looking for a good basic book on wood. I would like 
|> to use it to identify wood and to decide what wood is best 
|> for my applications. Please let me know what your favorites 
|> are. 

While it is probably much less than you are asking about, Northern Hardwood
has a catalouge, and the first 12 or so pages talks about the different 
woods that they carry. There is lots of good hints about what you would want
to build out of that kind of wood, as well as details like angles you should
sharpen cutting tools to and how often you can expect to resharpen. 

I have no connection with them except for being a happy customer. They are on
Mathew St. in Santa Clara CA. Sorry, but the complete address is not here.

David		doshay@ursa.arc.nasa.gov
From: krumm+@CS.CMU.EDU (John Krumm)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: SCROLL SAW PATTERNS
Date: 7 Apr 92 18:57:53 GMT
Organization: Carnegie Mellon University

Maybe this is painfully obvious, but have you checked
in a public library?  The one I go to in Pittsburgh has
three or four three-foot shelves full of woodworking books.
Several of the books are full of scroll saw patterns.

It's also a great place to meet chicks, because the
woodworking books are right next to the tie-dye books.

					John
From: smb@ulysses.att.com (Steven Bellovin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: What to look for when buying a used Table Saw?
Date: 9 Apr 92 22:33:30 GMT
Distribution: usa

In article <1992Apr9.005032.6762@schaefer.math.wisc.edu>, wilson@schaefer.math.wisc.edu (Bob Wilson) writes:
} In article <16507@ulysses.att.com> smb@ulysses.att.com (Steven Bellovin) writes:
} >In article <ktp9hgINNilb@news.bbn.com>, tlaughli@star-trek.bbn.com (Tom Laughlin) writes:
} >
} >In most situations, direct drive is probably better.  You get increased
} >depth of cut, and probably less wobble.
} (deletions)
} I think this is wrong. In earlier discussions there was pretty much
} agreement that direct drive generally gave LESS depth of cut, since
} the diameter of the motor is surely greater than the diameter of a
} pulley, so a belt driven arbor can be raised up closer to the bottom
} of the table.

Indeed I was wrong -- I was asleep when I wrote it, no doubt.  I meant
to recommend belt drive.

As for wobble -- I'm guessing -- guessing, mind you -- that the magnetic
impulses as the AC cycles on and off might cause a slight wobble if
the windings are less than perfectly symmetrical.  I'm reasoning by
analogy with turntables, where motor-induced rumble is a concern.
From: sgs8r@kelvin.seas.Virginia.EDU (Steve Strickland, sgs8r@virginia.edu)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: first dovetails
Date: 16 Apr 92 22:48:42 GMT
Article-I.D.: murdoch.1992Apr16.224842.813
Organization: Dept. of Systems Eng., U.Va.

In article <0095929A.89912F20@BAEPV4.NCSU.EDU> thomas@BAEPV4.NCSU.EDU writes:
>
>One question to those more experienced than myself in dovetails...
>Do you normally mark and start cutting from what might be called 
>the inside of the box, or the outside? Does that make sense?
>

I'm not quite sure what you mean, but I'll offer a few points of advice (which
are worth roughly what you're paying for them :-)):

1. In marking, note that (as Tage Frig mentions in V1) the knife/awl will tend
to follow the grain, so mark so that this effect pulls the marking implement
tighter to the line rather than away. Thus if marking the tails from the pins,
scribe from the outside in.

2. Frid says to cut the pins first. Ian Kirby says cut the tails first. I used
to do them Frid's way but I switched recently. I make the tail cuts on my table
saw, using pencil marks. Then I remove most of the waste with a coping saw or
scroll saw. I clean up with the chisel, undercutting slightly (white oak is
HARD). Then I mark the pins and cut with a backsaw, using an old square as a
guide. Then I cope/scroll and clean up again. Seems like they are never
*perfect*, but after gluing and filling any small gaps with mixed glue and
sawdust, they look great.

I'd like to be able to crank them out by hand in 20 minutes, but avoiding ruin
is more important at this point. Maybe in a few decades. Of course, things are
easier with pine and other softer woods. Oak and maple are hard work to chisel
and don't compress much (so errors are harder to correct for). 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: whit@milton.u.washington.edu (John Whitmore)
Subject: Re: Designing bookcases.
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1992 06:13:19 GMT

In article <1992Apr7.015439.5342@sactoh0.sac.ca.us> jhp@sactoh0.SAC.CA.US (Jim H. Puga) writes:

>I want to build some bookcases and have a question.  

>I was thinking of using quarter-inch veneer plywood but I don't
>want to pay for having both sides finished. 

	But to keep the plywood from cupping, it has to be
built symmetrically; it will ALWAYS have similar layers on
the outside (though the quality may vary).

>The other method is applying the veneer directly to the back of
>the bookcase.  The veneer would be the only backing and am wondering
>if this would be strong enough to work.

	Probably not; the back of the bookcase is an important
strength member (it keeps the sides straight, so they can bear
a lot more load than bowed sides could), and thin solid wood (veneer)
would likely split due to expansion/contraction if not due to stress.

	What I did was to buy the cheapest hardwood-face plywood
I could find (Phillipine mahogany) and finish it dark.  The back
of the bookcase isn't seen when the books are in place, and is
only a backdrop to any bric-a-brac, so black is just fine.
Routing a rabbet in the frame pieces and gluing the back in
place is recommended; use a few nails to keep the thing together
while the glue dries.

	John Whitmore
From: ford@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Harry Ford)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: WANTED: Portable worktable Info
Date: 9 Apr 92 16:35:42 GMT
Reply-To: ford@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Harry Ford)
Distribution: na
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD


    I'm looking to buy a portable worktable. The last time our youth
group went to our workcamp I promised myself I'd never go back with
out one along. Would like to hear from those who've had experience using
this type of table (cost, ease of use, problems encountered). JUst email
any responses. If enough interest, I'll post the results!

harry
ford@oasys.dt.navy.mil
-- 
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
+  Before space was invented........    +                                  +
+                                       +  ...Time had no place to go!     +
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From: hsc@stroid.sybase.com (Howard Cohen)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Sharpening Plane Irons
Summary: A problem?
Keywords: plane iron, sharpening
Date: 6 Apr 92 17:00:44 GMT
Article-I.D.: sybase.19286
Followup-To: rec.woodworking
Organization: Sybase, Inc.

Hi all.  I spent my shop hours this weekend attempting to sharpen various
tools, including some plane irons. I recently purchased a diamnond "stone"
and I'm very happy with it.  In fact, I've never been able to get the
kind of sharp edge I'm now able to get on my tools.  It works great!  I
find that the "hollow grinding" approach is fantastic.  However, I have
a problem/question, I was hoping others could comment on.

I used a grinding wheel to achieve the hollow grind, and that worked, but
I found that after the sharpening process was complete, the cutting edge of
my plane irons looked kind of the (exagerated) drawing below:

	 ___________________________
	/			    \
	|                           |
	|                           |
		     .
		     .
		     .
		     .


That is, the corners are a bit curved.  This is not a huge affect, but it is
noticable.  At first I though, "Great, I've ruined the edge and now I'll
have to re-grind it."  But I installed it in the plane and started using
it a bit to test out the edge. It cuts incredibly well; ultra thin strips of
wood peel off like the layers of an onion, just beautiful.  Pushing the
plane felt like I was pushing clay. 

Then I began musing about the trade-offs between a square edge vs. one with 
slightly curved edges.  It seems to me that perhaps curved edges offer 
superior performance for block planes, jack planes and the like because the 
edges will never catch on the wood.  A sharp corner edge could leave a visible 
line in the wood, whereas the curved one is constantly feathering adjacent 
strokes.

Clearly, chisels and rabbet planes, etc. still need square edges, so I'd better
improve my technique in general.

Comments anyone?

	Howard
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  Howard "I wood if I could" Cohen
  hsc@sybase.com  {pacbell,pyramid,sun,{uunet,ucbvax}!mtxinu}!sybase!hsc
  Sybase, Inc.    6475 Christie Avenue, Emeryville, CA 94608, 510-596-3406 
Xref: sparky rec.woodworking:3131 misc.consumers.house:6368
From: rcsmith@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Robert Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Picket Fence
Date: 16 Apr 92 15:58:48 GMT
Reply-To: rcsmith@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Robert Smith)
Followup-To: rec.woodworking
Distribution: usa
Organization: Carderock Div Detachment, Annapolis, Code 2711,NSWC

In rec.woodworking, laforce@xenon.arc.nasa.gov (Soren LaForce) writes:
>In article <1992Apr8.193933.27991@jpl-devvax.jpl.nasa.gov>, kathys@jpl-devvax.j
>pl.nasa.gov (Kathy Sturdevant) writes...
>>
>>I need to put in a picket fence and I'd like to solicit opinions on
>>what to use for posts.  I'd prefer wood,... [stuff deleted]

I have a post and rail fence that has been in about 8 years.  The posts
are locust and have held up very well with no preservative.  I also
have some locust tree trunks which have been on the ground in the woods
for over ten years - the stuff rots very slowly!  However, I don't know
if the posts are available for other than the post and rail design.
					     Bob Smith
Xref: sparky rec.woodworking:3096 misc.consumers.house:6304
From: mckenna@ctron.com (Ed McKenna)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Picket Fence
Date: 14 Apr 92 15:58:46 GMT
Reply-To: mckenna@shark.ctron.com (Ed McKenna)
Followup-To: rec.woodworking
Distribution: na
Organization: Cabletron Systems INc.

In article <1992Apr9.005247.16032@news.arc.nasa.gov> doshay@ursa.arc.nasa.gov (David Doshay) writes:
>I would strongly recomend wood for the posts if the rest is wood. You can
>buy pressure treated Doug Fir that is stained red at Home Depot. You will
>need to prime the wood before painting, and be sure to get a primer that
>says it it for the kind of wood you are using: e.g. redwood is very acid,
>and requires a special primer.
>
>David		doshay@ursa.arc.nasa.gov


	I didn't see the original post, but I used wood posts for mine,
	BTW, I also used oilbased white stain.  It looks better than
	paint. And it doesn't peel.  I'm going to rent a sprayer this
	weekend and re-do it.  I got 3 years out of the original coat.

	Ed.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: gary@maestro.mitre.org (Gary Bisaga)
Subject: Excalibur fence question
Keywords: fence request norm
Reply-To: gary@maestro.mitre.org (Gary Bisaga)
Organization: The MITRE Corporation, McLean, Va
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 1992 16:15:57 GMT

I just got the auto-faxed response advertisement for the Excalibur fence.
From looking at the fax, it sounds like the fence norm uses on his main
TS.  Is it?  If not, what does he use?

-- 
Gary Bisaga (gbisaga@mitre.org)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: BRADO@nervm.nerdc.ufl.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Lathe recommendations wanted.
Date: 12 Apr 92 00:22:57 GMT
Article-I.D.: nervm.167C611091.BRADO
Organization: University of Florida, NERDC

Hi there,
  I am looking to purchase a lathe in the near future.  I was wondering
what the net had to say about lathes.  I would actually like to acuire
an older lathe, but living in Gainesville, Fl, there just aren't that
many woodworkers to purchase used equipment from.
  Are there good books that cover lathes?  I thinks that mostly I am
interested in turning bowls and vases.  What should I look for, and
how much should I be lookinh to spend to get a quality piece of
equipment.  Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Brad
From: c315-30@cs.UAlberta.CA (Gerald Oskoboiny)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bookcases
Date: 16 Apr 92 11:13:12 GMT
Organization: University of Alberta, Edmonton, Canada

daved@convex.com (David Dorfman) writes:

>In <1992Apr14.152538.28715@den.mmc.com> bsimmons@tracer.den.mmc.com (Brian Simmons) writes:
>>|> [Asks for help on building a bookcase.  In addition to the usual questions he
>>|> also notes he has neither time nor tools, and lives in an apartment.]
>>|>
> [snip]
>
>[...]                 ( If you are willing to live with ugly
>exposed plywood why not consider the cinder block and board approach
>afterall)

[this wasn't addressed to me, but I have a similar situation]

I will be moving to a new city (2000 miles away) in a couple weeks, and
will be returning after 16 months. It is too expensive to bring back a
lot of furniture, so the less I spend on it, the better.

Tonight I began thinking of ideas for a bookcase, and the best thing I
came up with (for my purposes) is the cinder block approach. It is ideal
for me, because it is so cheap that it is disposable.

I never thought it would turn out ugly, as the boards could be stained
or painted quite cheaply. Alternatively, does anyone know of any other
cheap, sturdy, finished materials?

Another reason this approach is ideal, is that it requires *no* tools
whatsoever (assuming I can get a hardware shop to cut the wood to size),
and it would be about as sturdy as possible. I never really considered
other ideas, because I kept having images of the whole thing falling over
to one side. How could it be constructed sturdily otherwise? Remember,
I would like it to be "disposable". :)

Can anyone think of reasons the cinder block approach is undesirable,
other than its appearance?

--
Gerald Oskoboiny (c315-30@manning.cs.UAlberta.CA)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: chaney@leland.Stanford.EDU (ken chaney)
Subject: How do I remove stains?
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 92 17:18:02 GMT

Here's a nice novice question for y'all:

The apartment I'm renting came furnished, and now that I'm getting close to
move out, I've noticed a couple of stains on some of the oak furniture.
They are the result of wet glasses and cans.
What's a good way to get rid of the stains?
I'm also interested in learning more woodworking techniques.
Is there a book with lots of general or obscure "tips and tricks" (I have the
list of books recommended in the FAQ posting) or will I just need to pick up 
knowledge as I go?

Thanks,
Ken chaney@leland.stanford.edu
From: Nick_Janow@mindlink.bc.ca (Nick Janow)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Woodworking books/mags (was Re: Want to get started in w
Date: 16 Apr 92 20:28:50 GMT
Article-I.D.: mindlink.11468
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada

bds@maui.linus.mitre.org (Barry D. Smith) writes:

> Someone beginning in woodworking not only needs plans supplied to him or her,
> but should follow them religiously until they can do the joinery, etc. with
> the precision it deserves.

I strongly disagree.  The following of plans or experimenting is a matter of
personal preference.  If I had to follow plans, I would not have been
interested in woodworking.  I despise following plans.  I learned the basics of
joint design from books, then built a breadbox, using dovetail joints, a "panel
in groove" back panel and a homemade knife joint front door.  It turned out
fine, and it taught me a lot more than I would have learned from following
plans (which I wouldn't have done anyways).

Someone beginning in woodworking _may_ benefit from following plans.  They also
might be turned off by a statement saying they _must_ follow plans.  Each
person has to discover the appropriate approach for themselves.
--

Nick_Janow@mindlink.bc.ca
From: rls@sequent.com (Robert Sleator)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: info wanted on power drivers
Date: 6 Apr 92 22:23:35 GMT
Article-I.D.: sequent.1992Apr6.222335.23564
Distribution: usa
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems, Inc.


This isn't exactly a wood question, but since this group is as close
as we come to rec.power-tools, here goes (after all, isn't woodworking just
an excuse for playing with power tools ?).

I am looking for a screw driver of the deck/drywall type (not cordless),
and am somewhat confused by the options.  I want it mostly for things like
deck building, but might also do some drywall with it.  As I see it, the
parameters are amperage (3.5 to 5.4 or so), speed (0-2500 and 0-4000 rpm
seem to be typical) and type of chuck or driver mechanism (whatever the
proper term is). 

I am inclined towards 5.4 amp, 0-2500 rpm, which I think would be best for
deck building, but am not sure how well this would work for drywall. 

I don't know what my options for chucks are.  I have seen an article on these
beasts in a five year old Fine Woodworking or Homebuilding, but don't know
what chucks are on what machines.

There seem to be about half a dozen Milwaukee drivers (model # 6749 to 6753
and something like 6798-1).  I am inclined towards Milwaukee, but am also
interested in Bosch and maybe DeWalt.

So my questions are what speed and power do I need, what chuck type do I need,
and what brands and, more important, models can anyone recommend.  Also,
will a tool that is suited for deck building also work well for drywall ?

Thanks.

Robert Sleator
rls@sequent.com
-- 
------------------------
Robert Sleator
x85917
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stevenj@microsoft.com (Steven JOHNSON)
Subject: Jet tools (cheap mail-order?)
Date: 07 Apr 92 15:03:04 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp.
Keywords: jet

Does anyone have a good, low-cost, mail-order supplier for Jet tools?
I used to know of one in Arkansas or someplace but lost their address.
Normally, I would first check Tools on Sale (Mpls.), but they have
stopped carrying Jet.

By the way, TOS's service seems to be slipping somewhat recently.  Their
phone order-takers don't seem as knowledgable/motivated any more.  Pity.
Organization: University of Illinois at Chicago
Date: Thursday, 9 Apr 1992 11:04:24 CDT
From: George Yanos <U08208@uicvm.uic.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Bitnet?

Is this posted there?
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Tung Oil
From: poncho@amigans.gen.nz (Peter Northway)
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 92 17:55:00 NZS
Organization: Wanganui Amigans, Wanganui, New Zealand

Is Tung oil non-toxic?
A handout from a local Woodturning distributor states that Tung Oil
which is a natural extract of the nut of the Tung Tree is non-toxic
and therefore ideal for food containers.
I have used Tung oil extensively and it gives a very durable
finish, although certain timbers need a lot of applications as
they tend to soak up quit a lot. It should be thinned with vegetable 
turpentine.
I recently read a magazine article however which stated that
"certain oils rule themselves out for food containers as they are
toxic i.e. Tung oil,etc"
So do we have any woodworking chemists/food technologists who
can set the record straight?
I suppose I could always drink a quart or so in the name of science.
But I really prefer a good Draught :-).

Peter Northway       |   :-) and the world :-)'s with you
Wanganui New Zealand |   :-( and you :-( alone.
From: jsantos@godzilla.ma30.bull.com (James Santos)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: DeWalt cordless drills
Date: 16 Apr 92 18:56:50 GMT
Organization: Bull HN Informations Systems Inc.

Hi,
	Anyone out there have any experience with these tools?  I
played with a couple of them in Home Depot yesterday and they seem to
be well-made.  The 9.6V and 12V models have what DeWalt refers to as a
"pressure-sensitive chuck", which seems like it might be useful when
driving screws.  If anyone just wants to expound on the virtues of
their favorite cordless drill, I would be interested in that too,
since I am in the market for a new one.

Thanks


--
Jim Santos
Bull Worldwide Information Systems
J.Santos@bull.com
From: sjackson@medicus.com (Steve Jackson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Good stores or other WW attractions in SF Bay area (?)
Date: 17 Apr 92 19:20:46 GMT
Organization: Medicus Systems Corporation, Alameda, California

esr@perseus.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Edwin S. Russell) writes:

>In article <1992Apr15.145647.5509@hplabsz.hpl.hp.com>  
>wentzel@hplabsz.hpl.hp.com (Kevin Wentzel) writes:
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> I'll be in San Franscisco next week and would appreciate any suggestions
>> of good stores or other wood working attractions to visit.  I suppose
>> I might get over to Oakland and/or Berkeley for half a day, so east bay
>> suggestions are also welcome.
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> 
>> Southern Lumber, San Jose, Alma St. and Montery Highway.

>I think Southern Lumber is the place that did our back fence a few years  
>ago and is no longer in business.  Maybe somebody else can confirm.

>I used to get a catalog for tools and wood from a place in Alameda.  They  
>had monthly specials on different kinds of wood.  However, I no longer get  
>the catalog and I can't remember the name.  I may have an old catalog at  
>home if nobody else can help.

It's called Japan Woodworker.
            1731 Clement St.
            Alameda, CA 94501
            1-800-537-7820

Most (all) of the stuff in their catalog is... japanese: saws, chisels,
sharpening stones, knifes, etc.  If you go there, though, they have general
books, finishing supplies, power tools, and lumber.  I spent just enough
time in there to get some waterstones, though I've been meaning to go back.

Stev
From: wojcik@crl.dec.com (Ted Wojcik)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Designing bookcases.
Date: 7 Apr 92 23:28:14 GMT
Reply-To: wojcik@crl.dec.com
Distribution: usa
Organization: DEC Cambridge Research Lab

In article <1992Apr7.015439.5342@sactoh0.sac.ca.us>, jhp@sactoh0.sac.ca.us (Jim H. Puga) writes:
> I want to build some bookcases and have a question.  
> 
> What is the prefered method for the back of the bookcase?
> 
> I was thinking of using quarter-inch veneer plywood but I don't
> want to pay for having both sides finished.  I haven't been able
> to locate plywood with veneer on one side.  Does such a thing
> exist.
> 

> -- 
> -------------------------------------------------------------
> - jhp@sactoh0.SAC.CA.US    What else can I say?             -
> -------------------------------------------------------------

I think what you are looking for is grade A3.  The veneer on the "back" is
of lower quality than the "front".  The lumber yard I do business with carries
A3 but I had to have them special order the A2 I wanted with good faces on
both sides.

/Ted
--
Standard Disclaimer:

    The opinions expressed above are those of the author and do not
    represent the official views of  Digital Equipment Corporation.

Ted Wojcik, Systems Manager (wojcik@crl.dec.com)
Digital Equipment Corporation, Cambridge Research Lab
1 Kendall Sq. Bldg. 700 Flr. 2 Cambridge, MA, 02139, USA
(617)621-6652