HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: swanee@megadata.mega.oz.au (Geoff Swan)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Amateur vs. Pro (was Re: International Photographer)
Date: 30 Jul 92 00:37:23 GMT
Organization: Megadata P/L, North Ryde, Sydney, Aust.

In article <1992Jul27.183634.4539@clark.edu>, gsnow@clark.edu (Gary Snow) writes:
> One of the things that I am trying to get across here is the elitist type
> attitude that some places and/or people show towards what they regard as a
> non-pro.  If you can't get in to a certain event to take pictures, then
> how are you ever going to sell what you don't have, or can't get, simply
> because of stupid rules that try and separate some photographers from
> others. Its the old catch 22 syndrome.
> -----
> Gary Snow
> uunet!clark!gsnow  or  gsnow@clark.edu

Gary,
   If you really thought that you had a legitimate reason to provide
photographic coverage of a particular event then you should contact the
organisers and arrange for passes from them. If you can't show them any
reason for you to be there, then what's the complaint?

I have had no trouble getting passes and/or access to restricted places
and events because I had a legit reason for being there. A little
forethought and planning is advised, rather than showing up at the door
with some dinky little pass and expecting to be given access.

Geoff Swan
swanee@megadata.oz.au
From: SPW103@psuvm.psu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Photo batteries vs. Watch Batteries
Date: 22 Jul 92 18:36:04 GMT
Organization: Penn State University

I've got an Olympus OM2s.  The manual says to use an SR44 or EPX76 (I think) or
equivilant.  I usually pay about $3-3.5 a piece for these, and I need two.  I
was at Wal-Mart today, and I noticed that they sell Duracell button cell
batteries, and that there seems to be two models that will work in my camera.
They've got one that's marked as a SR44 equivilant (a Duracell 357, i think)
for about $2, and the other is an EPX76, selling for $3.50.  The cheaper
battery is marked as a watch-calculator battery, or somethink like that, and
the other is marked photo-electronic.  They appear identical, and are both
1.5v silver oxide batteries.

Is there a performance difference between the two batteries?  Oh, another
question is that also available is a 3v lithium battery that is marked as
an equivalent for two stacked SR44 batteries, but the Olympus owners manual
I think specifically states _not_ to use these batteries.  Anybody know why?

                          -Stephen Walker
                           spw103@psuvm.psu.edu
From: yee@mipgsun.mipg.upenn.edu (Conway Yee)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: bad experience with FotoCell
Date: 27 Jul 92 23:05:22 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: University of Pennsylvania

mmr@cs.rit.edu (Margaret M Reek) writes:
>I had never dealt with this
>company before, but they were on Popular Photography's "Check Rated" 
>Program list, so I figured they were OK.  Never again.

I have never had much respect for Pop Photo's (and previously Mod
Photos), approval programs.  I have had problems with several
companies on their "approved" list.  Remember, these companies
advertise in Pop Photo.  Pop Photo derives ALOT of income from these
advertisements.  Where do you think that their best interest lies?

For that matter, what about their "reviews"?  First of all, they do
not test a statistically significant number of units.  Second, they
are not exactly unbiased; all the major camera equipment outfits
advertise in Pop Photo.  Pop Photo's best interests lie in keeping
them happy.  When I used to read Pop (and Mod) Photo, I noticed that
they never (or hardly ever) gave bad reviews.

To be fair, I have the same complaints about a lot of magazines.

>Maybe some of you have had good experience with these folks, but my
>one experience says "stay away".

Well, I haven't dealt with them for YEARS.  About 5 years ago, I was
in search of a macro 55mm Nikkor lense.  The best price was in
Fotocell.  When I got there, they tried the old bait-and-switch.  I
promptly walked out and have never been back.  The problem with most
photo supply houses is that they are not exactly the most honest.  You
have to know your prices and know exactly what you are looking for.
Otherwise, you are dead meat.




-- 
411 Blockley Hall      |                    Conway Yee, N2JWQ
418 Service Drive      | yee@ming.mipg.upenn.edu    (preferred)
Philadelphia, PA 19104 | cy5@cunixa.cc.columbia.edu (forwarded to above)
(215) 662-6780         |
From: ark@alice.att.com (Andrew Koenig)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Long lenses
Date: 26 Jul 92 15:13:15 GMT
Reply-To: ark@alice.UUCP ()
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories, Liberty Corner NJ

In article <1992Jul26.174023.1@cc.curtin.edu.au> zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au (Paul Repacholi) writes:

> Second the above. I did rifle shooting and trap shooting years ago, and could
> pull hand-helds way oer what 'the book' said was possible. Oer the last year or
> so though, I can't hold steady worth 2 cents... Called age or something.

In my case, I think it's that I've become more critical since I've
started working in larger formats.

Seriously, when people look at my hand-held test prints, they think
they're just fine -- until they see the prints from the tripod-mounted
camera.  Try it yourself and see.
-- 
				--Andrew Koenig
				  ark@europa.att.com
From: phr@soda.berkeley.edu (Paul Rubin)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Olympus XA ( was Re: Contax T2 )
Date: 25 Jul 92 00:19:45
Organization: CSUA/UCB
	<92205.092827SPW103@psuvm.psu.edu>
	<1992Jul23.182904.12452@math.ucla.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: soda.berkeley.edu
In-reply-to: scleary@oak.math.ucla.edu's message of Thu, 23 Jul 92 18:29:04 GMT

Nice article with a couple minor errors that I noticed:

1. The XA-1 had a selenium meter and I think it wasn't battery dependent.

2. Besides the A11 and A16 flashes there was also the A1L.  This
was a small, fast recycling lithium powered flash.  I believe the
lithium battery was not user replaceable.  This is similar to the
Kodak Disc cameras of the same period---you had to send it in for
servicing when the battery ran out.  Nonetheless, I was looking
around for one of these when I had an XA, because the A11's slow
recyling was a pain in the neck and the A16 was too bulky.  Also,
the A16 had a tendency to turn itself on and drain its batteries.
(I had both an A11 and an A16).
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au (Paul Repacholi)
Subject: Re: Advice on Developing Tank
Organization: Curtin University of Technology
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 15:14:20 GMT

In article <1992Jul23.021757.18007@jhunix.hcf.jhu.edu>, sylve_ge@jhunix.hcf.jhu.edu (Gerald Sylvester) writes:
> I decided to buy a new developing tank.  I am not doing anything that
> fancy so I guess I would prefer a plastic tank with a 2 or 3 film
> capacity and with an auto-load reel.  Stainless Steel will probably
> be too much of a pain especially since I do not do too much developing.
> I basically want a fool proof or at least close to it, tank and reel.
> What do you recommend?  I think people recommended the Patterson's.  
> What models of reels and tanks?
> 
A patterson is a Patterson, except in the land of marketing, where it's a
Saunders or some such... However, the reels are the same since the year dot.
EXCEPT for a short time they had a teflon coating on them. If you find some 2nd
hand in a junk pile that a a *PALE* tan colour, grab them with both hands. You
can load the mothers wet!!
The new system 4 tanks are very good. The old ones never seemed to want to seal
properly, and the center tube and reels are the same. You can also 'cut and
shut' them with black PVC to make whatever monster size you need.
~Paul

Xref: sparky rec.photo:13165 chi.forsale:1159
Newsgroups: rec.photo,chi.forsale
Subject: FOR SALE - CANON AE-1 with lenses + more
From: jlt@cbnewsc.cb.att.com (jeffrey.r.light)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 18:31:27 GMT
Followup-To: poster
Distribution: il
Organization: AT&T
Keywords: CANON AE-1 FOR SALE



* * * * * * * FOR SALE:  CANON AE-1 35mm SLR Camera & LENSES + MORE * * *

Includes:  1.  CANON AE-1 body
           2.  Tokina 28mm - 70 mm f2.8-4.3 auto macro zoom lens
           3.  Canon 100mm f2.8 auto telephoto lens
           4.  Canon  50mm f1.8 auto lens
           5.  Soligor 2X auto tele converter
           6.  Vivitar 252 auto flash
           7.  Gadget bag and instruction manuals

Everything is in perfect condition and all for sale as one lot for $350.

EMAIL reply to jlt@ihlpy.att.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au (Paul Repacholi)
Subject: Re: Need helps selecting lens for an Elan
Organization: Curtin University of Technology
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 16:44:49 GMT

In article <711407284.F00001@therose.pdx.com>, Robert.Church@p27.f319.n105.z1.therose.pdx.com (Robert Church) writes:
...
> TN>   -  How much better is an Ultrasonic lens versus an EF lens.
> TN>      I am trying justify for an extra $60-$80 in cost.
> 
>     Unless you're about to get _real_ serious, go with the EF.  Save a few
>     bucks.
> 
Or better still, forget the 4.5-5.6 'black-arse' and get a good early 35-105EF
or 35-135USM. You should be able to find the former with a bit of digging around.
The USM will probably keep its value better though. Either of these is a *LOT*
better than any of the 'Rebel' EFs.

~Paul

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jake@bony1.bony.com (Jake Livni)
Subject: Re: spotting red-eye on prints
Organization: The Department of Redundancy Department
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 92 21:03:06 GMT

In article <1992Jul20.070818.12683@jpl-devvax.jpl.nasa.gov> garyf@jpl-devvax.jpl.nasa.gov (Gary Friedman) writes:

>Pilot makes a great all-around ultra-sharp indellible pen called the
>PHOTOGRAPHIC MARKER, Item #BPM-UF.  (What makes so special for photographic
>applications?  Probably nothing but marketing.)

Different things go into the ink formula for different pens to give them
different properties.  Something is added to the PHOTOGRPAHIC MARKER to 
make it mark well on smooth plastics, i.e. the ink absorbs into the plastic
quickly and embeds into it.  (I believe that the Sanford Sharpie is similar,
but with a wider nib.  It is standard equipment in gadget bags for marking
film cassettes.)  The Photo Marker should mark well on plastic sheets and
RC paper prints, though I don't remember how well it works on glass.

Jake
-- 
Jake Livni  jake@bony1.bony.com               Pat Paulsen for President
American-Occupied New York                    This year he has a real chance!
My opinions only - employer has no opinions.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: josh@Happy-Man.com (Joshua_Putnam)
Subject: Re: How can I detect that my fixer is running out?
Reply-To: Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com
Organization: Happy Man Corp., Vashon Island, WA 98070-7399
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 23:18:27 GMT

In <6820@charon.cwi.nl> jack@cwi.nl (Jack Jansen) writes:

>I've just started playing away in a darkroom, but there's something
>that still bothers me: how do I notice that the fixer for my paper
>should be replaced?

1. Like you thought, keep track of how many prints you've put through
the tray.  I use an eraseable whiteboard and tickmarks.

2. If you have good hearing and a very quiet darkroom, you'll know the
fixer is getting depleted when it doesn't make a very faint,
high-pitched squeal when the paper hits it.  I have no idea what
causes this noise, and only about 1/3 of the people I've talked about
it can even hear it, but it seems to be a reliable indicator.

3. If you have a little extra $, but a commercial indicator and do it
the easy way.
-- 
 Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com    Happy Man Corp.  206/463-9399 x102
 4410 SW Pt. Robinson Rd., Vashon Island, WA  98070-7399  fax x108
 We publish SOLID VALUE for the intelligent investor.  NextMail OK
Info free; sample $20: Send POSTAL addr: Solid-Value@happy-man.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: mcnair@bnr.ca (Ken McNair)
Subject: Re: Pentax (repair or replace) question
Reply-To: mcnair@bnr.ca (Ken McNair)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 18:10:48 GMT

I had the flash contacts on my Pentax KM repaired and
a complete overhaul (clean, adjust, lube) for $CAN 80
I would expect you would pay around the same ($US 50-60)
to have the meter fixed.
The KM is identical to the K1000 with the addition of
a self timer and depth of field preview button. It may 
also have been offered with a different choice of standard
lens, focusing screen, case, etc.
In short a classic solid camera. If you like it, have it
fixed or use it without the meter as a second body. 
If sold "as is" I would expect to get only $CAN 50-100 :-(


Ken.
From: fiddler@concertina.Eng.Sun.COM (steve hix)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: AF/AE vs. Manual aka All That Jazz
Date: 21 Jul 1992 23:18:09 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Mt. View, Ca.
NNTP-Posting-Host: concertina
Keywords: opinions

In article <1992Jul21.202331.20228@clark.edu> gsnow@clark.edu (Gary Snow) writes:
>
>I have found that most of the "anti-AF/AE crowd" hasn't used an AE/AF camera
>enough to even know that they can turn things on and off, they just like
>to complain that the camera does it for them when they wanted to do it
>for themselves......:-)

I'm certainly glad that you included the modifier "most" in that
opening statement.

Consider that some of the "anti-AF/AE crowd" have some other objections
to jumping into the new stuff:

	1. The cost of "upgrading" may not be buying them enough to
	   warrent doing so.

	2. There may not be any gain in quality of results.

	3. Some have watched "technical advances" come along over
	   the past 30 years...they know that if they wait a while,
	   things will settle out, prices will drop, bugs will be
	   ironed out...and meanwhile, the old stuff still works.

	4. Some of them *like* to work in a relaxed, unhurried manner.
	   Taking time to think, look, and reflect may be more worthwhile
	   to some of them than, almost, the final product.

	5. Some can go ahead and borrow their wive's (or husband's)
	   whizzo gadget for shooting races when they come up.

	6. Some have used the AE/AF cameras enough to understand how they
	   work very well, thank you.  They just reject them because it
	   doesn't fit they way they want to work.  Some people ride
	   bicycles instead of motorcycles.  (Some people ride both, and
	   like each for its own reason.)

Anyone interested in a full-up Canon F-1/T90 system with lenses, cases,
flash stuff, etc?  It all seems so techie, and my concertinas would like
to have some more bellows-equipped friends around the house...

--
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Of making many books there is no end...  |  What's wrong with chasing 
                       -- Eccl. 12:12    |  nebulae till 3 am?  |-(
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: kjm@cnmss.tredydev.unisys.com (Ken J. McFadden)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Transparency Contact Sheets
Date: 17 Jul 92 17:02:38 GMT
Organization: Unisys Corporation, Tredyffrin

In article <rodney.711127704@kitscoty> rodney@cs.UAlberta.CA (Rodney Gitzel) writes:
>
>Is it feasible to make contact sheets from transparencies.
> In my case, transparencies means strips of unmounted
> 35mm images.  I would like to be able to make contact
> sheets for them like I do for some of my B+W negs.
>
>I realize that the results wouldn't be ideal, what with
> different colour filtering needed for different images,
> or whatever (but it's like that with B+W contact sheets,
> too).  I'm just wondering if it's possible, and how it
> would be done.  Better still, could it be done with the
> same equipment I use for B+W?  And while I'm at it, I
> would like a pony, too.  :-)
>
>Thanks.
>
>Rodney Gitzel

A B+W set up has most of the equipment that you need, but there are some
changes:

  - No Safelight.
  - It will be much simpler to do Drum processing than Tray processing
    without the safe light.  All you need to try this out is a drum
    large enough for the contact sheet.
  - The chemical processing times are much longer for color reversal
    papers than for B+W papers.
  - Most B+W enlargers have a filter drawer that you can put color
    correction filters in.

As for different color filtration for different images, I usually just balance
the filter pack when I open a new box of paper.  I almost never try to
adjust the filter pack for a specific image.  Now if you were trying to
make contact sheets of color negatives then that's a completely different
story because of those orange, red, etc. color masks in the film.  The color
balance then changes with Kodak vs. Fuji, Gold vs. Ektar, New improved formula
vs. old formula, etc.  I am far too lazy for that and print only on
Cibachrome cf1.k from mostly Kodachrome slides.  I will admit that I am pretty
picky when I do pick a filter pack for a new box of paper, last time I used
about 10 sheets, the time before that took about 5.  I hope I'm not getting
worse at this as I learn.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ken McFadden        kjm@cnmss.tredydev.unisys.com
Unisys Corporation  kjm@cnmsa.tredydev.unisys.com
P.O. Box 203        work: (215) 648-3742
Paoli, PA 19301     home: (215) 675-0382
Xref: sparky rec.photo:13068 rec.woodworking:5132
From: kassover@rumsey.crd.ge.com (David Kassover)
Newsgroups: rec.photo,rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Focal length rip-off. Coincidence?
Date: 27 Jul 92 02:07:39 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: GE Corporate R&D Center

In article <1992Jul25.195000.5023@eskimo.celestial.com> wix@eskimo.celestial.com (Dennis Wicks) writes:
>In article <18590@drutx.ATT.COM> chuck@drutx.ATT.COM (LucianoC) writes:
>> ....stuff deleted...  
>>
>>Have you ever put a ruler to a 2 by 4?
>>
>>I think they call it a nominal dimension!
>>
>>Chuck
> 
> No, they call it dimensioned lumber.  It is rough cut to full 2x4
> and planed to the finished size.  And all 2x4s are the same size!
>

Nope, try again.  Lumber intended to become finished 2x4 is rough cut
smaller than 2x4.  Lumber intended to remain rough cut may or may
not be cut to smaller than 2x4.  Depends on the the mill, the
intended end use, and which set of regs are being adhered
to/ignored on any given day.

Even for s4s garden variety lumber you might pick up in a store,
there are variances;  The craftsman has to decide if it makes a
difference.  I know I was very annoyed when two seemingly
identical 1x8's measured out at 7.5 and 7.675 inches;  it didn't
matter to the finished project, but mattered to my setup.  but
not much.

I live in an older house; if you were to wander around with a
ruler you could see the progression of dimension lumber from 2x4
to 1.75x3.75 to 1.5x3.5 and even smaller.

Now I have a planer, and with reason I can make it whatever I want.


> Maybe the lense mfgrs are rough grinding to stated f.l. and then
> finish grinding and polishing to what ever they can get!

I'd be really surprised if actual as built focal length for a
particular lens varied much over a production run.  I wouldn't be
surprised if actual focal length varied a lot from the initial
parameters, especially with the more complicated designs with 13
elements in 11 groups, zoom plus macro and maybe even fixed
maximum aperture.



-- 
David Kassover             "Proper technique helps protect you against
uupsi!khazad!kassover	          sharp weapons and dull judges."
kassover@aule-tek.com                   F. Collins
kassover@ra.crd.ge.com
From: gms@vax.oxford.ac.uk
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Nikon 8008s price PLEASE
Date: 30 Jul 92 09:47:26 GMT
Organization: Oxford University VAXcluster

Hi- I know this will have been asked a zillion times before but please
forgive :-)


My SO is heading to the US next week and I have asked him to pick me up
an Nikon 8008s body and possibly a lense if they are substantually cheaper
than 8001s here. Can someone give me please give me the list price and an
idea of selling prices, dealer recommendations also appreciated (he will 
be in Denver, Boston and somewhere in Vermont and Florida.

[For the record the list price of an 8001s + 50mm lense is somthing like
556 pounds here, I haven't check real prices this year]

thanks all

Michele
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au (Paul Repacholi)
Subject: Re: New Nikon Equipments.  Nikinos RS & SB-104
Organization: Curtin University of Technology
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 17:52:37 GMT

In article <1992Jul27.150319.23251@cs.cmu.edu>, phg+@CS.CMU.EDU (Paul Gleichauf) writes:
> 	There has been along standing rumor about an F5 for more than a year
> without substantiation.  The only scheduled Nikon 35 mm camera for release
> that has been announced is the Nikonos RS underwater camera line.

I had a look at one on Sat. It would be the UW photogs wet dream, till you see
the price... $2600 for the flash, $4500 for the body. 3 lenses avail now,
a 50 that will go to 1:1, a zoom, 20-35 I think, that is a serious contender
for the "zoom lens from hell" prize of the old FD600. The dammed thing is about
8" across at the front! Also a 28 or so.

Nikon seem to have done a good job on this unit. All the controls should be OK
to use, even with gloves. It also has a power focus mode. All displays are lit,
including the lens info.

The other neat trick is that the flash can be set into a 'super-slave' mode,
it aslo trips the camera when you hit it with an exteral flash. The pros
are snaping them up at a fare rate, even in these wonderous times. The flash
will also work with the N-V and N-IV as I remember.

Pity about the price. Oh, all the lenses are UW corrected, so after you have
coughed up 6-7 grand, you still can't take photos in air. Will be a air/water
lens 'read soon now' I guess.

~Paul
From: dcrosgr@uoft02.utoledo.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Overseas listings like Photographer's Market needed.
Date: 24 Jul 92 08:08:38 EST
Organization: University of Toledo, Computer Services

Does anyone know of internation/overseas publications that are similar to
Photographer's Market?

I have need of such listings, and would appreciate ahy information.

Thank you.

Darrell M. Crosgrove


Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: denny@tss.com (Denny Page)
Subject: Spot meters
Organization: Teknekron Software System, Inc.
Distribution: rec
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 22:03:29 GMT

Does anybody have any thoughts on the vaule of the Zone-VI modification
for the Pentax meters?

Thoughts on the Minolta Spot-F or the (unmodified) Pentax digital?

Denny
From: phr@soda.berkeley.edu (Paul Rubin)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: spotting red-eye on prints
Date: 24 Jul 92 09:25:35
Organization: CSUA/UCB
	<1992Jul19.030430.4012@unlinfo.unl.edu>
	<1992Jul20.070818.12683@jpl-devvax.jpl.nasa.gov>
	<1992Jul20.190616.25271@news.iastate.edu>
	<1992Jul22.174252.5632@nntpd.lkg.dec.com>
	<1992Jul24.080355.8337@sics.se>
NNTP-Posting-Host: soda.berkeley.edu
In-reply-to: pd@sics.se's message of 24 Jul 92 08:03:55 GMT

I've tried spotting with a black marker but thought the results
looked awful, almost like someone had graffiti'd the print.
Also it's difficult to avoid messing up the highlight in the eye.
My color printing instructor said the thing to use is green
transparent retouching dye; I haven't tried this yet.
From: f88mattb@fy.chalmers.se (Mattias Bryntesson)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: a question about Velvia
Date: 23 Jul 92 09:57:47 GMT
Organization: Chalmers University of Technology, G|teborg, Sweden

In article <3097@ra.nrl.navy.mil> tse@ra.nrl.navy.mil (Anthony Tse) writes:

>never go back to Kodakchrome.  Everything look so pale, even with
>a polarizer on, there was hardly any color in the K25.  I'll stick
>with Fujichrome for scenics and Ektachrome for anything with skin.

I got some Kodachrome slides back yesterday and they had very rich,
saturated colors. Do you expose correctly? I think stopping down 2/3
or so would make your colors come. Kodachrome requires much more
careful exposure than the E6 alternatives, but when treated right
it gives you wonderful pictures (it has also excellent achival properties).
I like Velvia too, and sure hopes it comes in bulk.

Mattias
Newsgroups: rec.photo