HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: reducing understeer (and other questions)
From: vpopesc@opus.uucp (Valentin Popescu)
Date: 18 Aug 92 22:51:34 PDT
Distribution: usa
Organization: California State University, Lost Angels

In article <1992Aug18.220800.20332@cabot.balltown.cma.COM> welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty) writes:
>In article <1992Aug17.232828.2470@nic.csu.net> vpopesc@opus.uucp (Valentin Popescu) writes:
>
>>o  Can anyone tell me what the normal way of reducing understeer is? The
>>   car in question is an 1985 Dodge Daytona with 2.2l Turbo engine and
>>   front wheel drive. P195-50R15 tires. (It understeers annoyingly.. at
>>   least compared to what I used to drive before)
>
>what were you driving before?

A nice big all american chevy camaro gaz guzzler. ;) It was rear wheel
drive, and it had after-market anti-roll bars. It handled quite
nicely... like on rails. ;)

>front drivers will tend to have significant understeer built in;
>even with suspension mods, they will understeer at the drop of a hat
>if you enter a corner too fast and then give it too much gas in the
>corner.  you can always try modifying your style; slow in/fast out
>cures an amazing number of understeer problems.

I am kinda embarassed driving it on
mountain roads, since it feels so strange. I get into a curb, and at
times I end up jerking it to get it back on the path. So.. in other
words, I can't drive very relaxed in it when hitting the mountains.

I am waiting for
a tech manual to come by mail, but I was just looking for some tips..
as in what to concentrate on. I believe that the change has to be done
to the _rear_ end, but I'm no engineer. And neither do I wanna create
oversteer, that's why I would like some input before jumping in. ;)

Thanks.



-- 
_____________     __      ____________ 
\_____      /    /_ \     \     _____/ Valentin Popescu
 \_____     \_____/  \____/     ____/  <vpopesc@opus.calstatela.edu>
  \______________      ____________/   P.O. Box 421181
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: fs@cs.tulane.edu (Frank Silbermann)
Subject: Removing headrests
Keywords: Engine rebuild, drivetrain, bodywork, 4WD
Organization: Computer Science Dept., Tulane Univ., New Orleans, LA
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 18:48:28 GMT
Nntp-Posting-Host-[nntpd-20673]: caesar


I'd like to install some cheap seatcovers. 
The instructions say first to remove the head-rests.
Can anybody tell me how to do that on my my near-basemodel
'87 Celbrity 2.8L Wagon?

Also, the second bench was made to never fold down.
It has the same button on top like seats which do fold
in similar cars, but in my car it's not hooked up to anything.
Is there an easy/cheap way to convert the 2nd bench so it can
fold down?

------------------------------------------
Frank Silbermann	fs@cs.tulane.edu
Tulane University	New Orleans, Louisiana  USA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk (Codesmiths)
Subject: Re: '57 TR3 no engine go jap?
Cc: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Reply-To: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1992 22:33:37 +0000


> I have a '57 TR3 with no engine.
> I i thinking about putting a Toyota or Nissan drivetrain in it...

It would be easy to do. Nice big engine bay, separate chassis, plenty
of room to fit a straight 6.

Don't do it !

  You'll smash the Triumph drivetrain up in no time at all. If you do
  do an engine swap, you really ought to change gearbox & back axle
  too. Swapping a back axle is harder work than swapping an engine
  over. (more mounts to change, suspension geometry to worry about).

  Certainly in the UK, this is a very collectable & valuable car. The
  value would be destroyed by fitting a non-original engine.

  The Triumph engine is perfectly OK. Even the dreaded Lucas
  Electrics aren't as bad as they're made out to be. Fix the Triumph
  engine and use that. It's an *incredibly* reliable engine (why do
  you think it went into tractors ?) if handled properly (fit an oil
  cooler & remote oil filter, and don't over-rev it). gas flowing the
  head is a worthwhile move, but it will never be a high-revving
  lump.

  Put a modern, powerful engine into that chassis, and you're going
  to get yourself killed. It isn't up to it.    ...and before the flames
  start, yes you *can* race the things with highly tuned engines but
  that's for good drivers, on a good surface, and with maintenance
  standards on the lowliest clubbie car that are far higher than
  almost any road car.


If you want to play engine swaps, this is a fine and laudable aim,
but I wouldn't do it on a TR. Start by buying a cheap fibreglass
kitcar on a welded tube chassis. You get much more space to work in,
the bits are cheap, you get a *much* better end result, and you don't
devalue a "classic" on the way.

If you really want to drive a TR, and you don't have an engine
available, look for a GT6 or Vitesse. I *know* they're available in
the US, because we Brits keep re-importing rust-free bodyshells from
you !  That engine is eminently suitable, and is far more in
character with the car than some modern lump.


          Andy Dingley    dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ptse@bwdls49.bnr.ca (Paul Tse)
Subject: alarm system recommendations
Summary: car alarm recommendations?
Keywords: alarm
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Ottawa, Canada
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1992 22:00:17 GMT

Does anyone have any recommendations for good alarm
systems?  What are the features to look for, and how
much should they cost?
 
Thanks for any help.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bphdarcy@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (SJ Roc D'Arcy, MBP)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Large Drop in Oil Pressure on Decelleration
Keywords: Oil Pressure Grand Am
Date: 21 Aug 92 16:05:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

I have an 1988 Pontiac Grand Am.  A problem I have been having is that
everytime I decellerate my oil pressure drops drastically.  If I have to
brake hard, the severe condition warning light kicks on.

The oil level seems to be correct and the gauage cluster seems to be in
correct working form.  I have theorized a possible problem with the
oil pump.  Has anyone else had any of the same problems?

Thanks,

SJRD 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty)
Subject: Re: a question about tires...
Keywords: tires...
Organization: New York State Institute for Sebastian Cabot Studies
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 18:59:36 GMT

In article <1992Aug20.152830.20117@eecs.nwu.edu> jack@eecs.nwu.edu (Kuo-Feng Liao) writes:

>I replaced four new tires for my Chevy Impala.  ...  (and it
>shows "threadwear--420", is that good ?)  

treadwear of 420 is a rough indication that the tire will last
50,000 years or 2,000,000 miles, which ever comes first.

> It's 205/75R from General, and costs 
>$60 each (not including balancing).  Is the price reasonable ? 

is this a general Ameriway?  if so, be forewarned that the tire
has fairly terrible wet pavement stick.  the price is probably
acceptable for the tire you've purchased.

richard
-- 
richard welty                            518-393-7228
welty@cabot.balltown.cma.com
  ``if you can read this, mario, you're too close''
    -- bumper sticker seen on a CART safety truck
From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Rear-end Bearings
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 23:31:45 -0500

 KR>         Totally different than the GM RWD setup.  They have a
 KR> permanently sealed bearing that is pressed onto the axle.  This
 KR> unfortunatly cost $40 to replace 10 years ago; how much did this
 KR> end up costing you, jim?

If it's the type that requires pulling the half shafts to remove the bearing,
you can use an old wheel rim as a cheap "puller". Dismantle the rear brake (if
necessary), remove bolts that attach the brake backing plate to the axle
housing, install the old wheel, and whack the inner rim with a sledge hammer to
drive out the axle shaft. 

After removing the lock nut, you can probably pry off the wheel bearing with a
pair of tire irons or heavy screwdrivers; if not, carry it to a machine shop to
get it removed. Don't fail to replace the outer axle seal and gasket, before
installing the new bearing on the axle shaft.

Not a real difficult job.
From: hale@btree.uucp (Bob Hale)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: '57 TR3 no engine go jap?
Date: 13 Aug 92 20:06:47 GMT
Article-I.D.: btree.1992Aug13.200647.934
Distribution: world
Organization: Brooktree Corporation

In article <1992Aug12.063427.9552@mr.med.ge.com> hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987) writes:
>On a lighter note, there was some guy from South Africa posting here a week or
>so ago about putting Chevy v-8's in Jaguars....perhaps he can help you out with
>info...I personally feel that he is trying to 'improve' the Mona Lisa with
>a crayon, however.

Swapping a small block Chevy into Jauguar XJ's has been popular for
at least 30 years.  The Chevy engine doesn't have the oil fouling
or the unreliability of the Jag engine and it runs better, at least
at typical U.S. speeds.

Bob Hale                                      ...!ucsd!btree!hale
...!btree!hale@ucsd.edu                       ...!ucsd!btree!hale@uunet.uu.net
From: bdl@cruiser.uucp (Bob Lombard)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: '57 TR3 no engine go jap?
Keywords: Collectors, Modifiers, & Pin Heads
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 92 20:24:21 PDT
Distribution: world
Organization: what? me organized? no way!

brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks) writes:

> In article <4808@blue.cis.pitt.edu.UUCP> macman+@pitt.edu (Dennis H Lippert) 
> >In article <1992Aug12.063427.9552@mr.med.ge.com> hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mf

stuff deleted to save bandwidth...

A point everyone seems to have missed is that for each car modified,
the value of the unmodified cars increase.


*****************************************************************
* Bob Lombard ||  bdl@cruiser.uucp  || 418 Village Center Drive *
*             ||                    || Encinitas, Ca. 92024     *
*  |~~|_                                                        *
*  |    :           "If it ain't green and it ain't old,        *
*  '0-0-''..../\..   .. it ain't my truck                       *
*****************************************************************
From: curtis@achilles.ctd.anl.gov (Jeffrey S. Curtis)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Tire speed ratings ?
Date: 14 Aug 92 19:16:11 GMT
Article-I.D.: mcs.1992Aug14.191611.8878
Organization: Argonne National Laboratory

In article <86192@netnews.upenn.edu>, george@mech.seas.upenn.edu writes:
|> Anybody want to guess what that "89V" stands for?

Expiration date?  ;-)

Jeff
--
       Jeffrey S. Curtis         | Internet: curtis@anl.gov
Computing and Telecommunications | BITnet:   curtis at anlvm
  Argonne National Laboratory    | X.400:    /PN=Jeffrey.Curtis/O=olivia
        +1 708/252-5031          |           /PRMD=anl/ADMD= /C=US/
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty)
Subject: Re: Tire speed ratings ?
Organization: New York State Institute for Sebastian Cabot Studies
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 1992 18:54:54 GMT

In article <713980814.F00002@blkcat.UUCP> Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory) writes:
> RW> you suckers better remember this; there'll be a test next week.

>And another change in the marking system, the week after?

no doubt.  would you want it any other way?

cheers,
  richard
-- 
richard welty                            518-393-7228
welty@cabot.balltown.cma.com
  ``if you can read this, mario, you're too close''
    -- bumper sticker seen on a CART safety truck
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: tbigham@shearson.com (Tim Bigham)
Subject: Re: alarm system recommendati
Organization: Lehman Brothers, NY
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 15:21:23 GMT

In article <1992Aug21.051635.2470@mr.med.ge.com> hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987) writes:
>Jeff Masterman (jeff.masterman@cutting.hou.tx.us) wrote:
>
>: Buy a "Club" I don't want to have to listen to yet another false
>: Auto-alarm. (G)...but seriously the HPD says the Club is better anyway.
>: It goes across the steering wheel and prevents it from being turned.
>
>It only stops the wheel from turning if the crook doesn't hacksaw thru the 
>steering wheel.  I agree that it would probably stop joyriders, but if someone
>is taking your car to a chop-shop, they won't hesitate to hack the steering
>wheel.
>
	A common method used to disable the club is to quick-freeze
	the metal by spraying it with a refrigerant and then breaking
	the brittle metal by hitting it with a hammer. The New York
	Times recently ran a series of articles about car theft in 
	Newark, N.J. in which kids between the ages of 9 and 17 described
	how quickly the club can be rendered ineffective using the
	above method.
	
	The most effective use for the Club is preventing Son or Daughter
	from driving Dad's new Porsche when he's on vacation.

--
Timothy J. Bigham			| All opinions expressed above are my own
Lehman Brothers, Inc.			| and should not be construed as those of 
AMEX Tower, World Financial Center	| my employer.
New York, N.Y. 				|
From: crmeyer@voodoo.physics.ucsb.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Recommendations wanted on 70's vinatge Ford or Chevy Pick-Ups
Date: 21 Aug 92 05:06:58 GMT
Organization: UCSB Physics Department

I am looking for a well built and simple pickup truck for general use
and towing my old Jeep CJ-6 (2200 lbs). Any recommendations on good or
bad Chevy or Ford models of the 70's? I am leaning towards 70's vintage
I have the impression they have more metal and less smog equipment to
fuss with (simplicity is king)

								Thanks!

                      +-----------------------------------+                    
                      |         Charles R. Meyer          |                    
                      |                                   |                    
                      | Internet: crmeyer@voodoo.ucsb.edu |                    
                      | Bitnet:   crmeyer@voodoo          |                    
                      | HEPnet:   voodoo::crmeyer         |                    
                      +-----------------------------------+                    
.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: GM 2.8L V6 oil leaks
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 22 Aug 92 08:54:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * Jacksonville AR USA * 501-985-0059


-> The reason Chevy engines from the "good old days" leak oil at the
-> valve cover gaskets is that they got a bit too cheap with the cover
-> bolts/screws. My '55 has a 235  inline 6 has four - count 'em - 4
-> screws holding down the

 The main problem is Chevy didn't machine the gasket surface, like
practically everyone else in the world.  They expected the wimpy narrow
little gasket to seal against the rough casting.  Brrp.  Wrong.  Also,
 V8s tend to pump enough oil to the top end for the gasket line to
be below the oil level once they've built up a good layer of crud
blocking the oil return drilling at the back of the head.
From: samblane@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Sean Samblanet)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: White foam in coolant, questions about A-cars
Date: 14 Aug 92 13:44:42 GMT
Reply-To: samblane@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Sean Samblanet)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.autos.tech, Mike Stukalin writes:
> (stuff deleted)
>Also, how do this cars compare to early Tauruses (Taurii?!). Her budget is
>about $2500-$3000, so we only get an early 4 cylinder Taurus. How's their
>reliability? Anything else of 85-up vintage in this price range?

    I am very surprised there has not been a bunch of postings warning
of__the terrible problems with the 4 cylinder Taurus.  I know people
that have owned the 4 and 6 cylinder versions of the Taurus and every
4 cylinder has had MAJOR problems.  The 6 cylinder owners are very happy.
    I've also read a few_ articles that say the same.

One friend owned an '86 4 cylinder Taurus.  The following is a list
of the major things he can remember being repaired (not to mention minor_things

    Radiator replaced
engine computer replaced
A/C system_ replaced
    entire brake system replaced (except master cylinder)
    Engine rebuilt(block was cracked)(only item_covered under warrantys)
    Clutch replaced
_____
These are just the major things.  My friend says he feels sorry for
any one who gets stuck with one.

Sean
From: pwu@oreo.ai.mit.edu (Peng Wu)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 90 Escort GT engine race at idle ?
Date: 20 Aug 92 20:48:52 GMT
Distribution: usa
In-reply-to: romansks@unvax.union.edu's message of 19 Aug 92 12:21:51 GMT


    From: romansks@unvax.union.edu (Steve Romanski)
    Subject: Re: 90 Escort GT engine race at idle ?
    Date: 19 Aug 92 12:21:51 GMT
    
    A little additional information. The car has over 60,000 miles hence no 
    warrenty. 
    
    I have brought the car to Ford and there is no codes in the computer.

Mmmm.  There is a small chance that the EEC is stuck in test mode.  If so, the
engine will idle stably at above 1000rpm.  Ford should have caught this if it
is the case but you might want to double check.  If you see any code before
you activate self test or you do not see any code after you activate self
test, the EEC might have stuck in the test mode.
From: roneill@ac.dal.ca
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Removal of headrests
Date: 20 Aug 92 09:40:53 -0300
Organization: Dalhousie University, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

In article <1992Aug19.180025.25844@mcnc.org>, brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks) writes:
> In article <1992Aug19.123806.7046@ac.dal.ca> roneill@ac.dal.ca writes:
>>I have always found that a hacksaw blade is a wonderful
>>tool for removing headrests.  Just follow the instructions
>>
> Removal with a hacksaw blade? But what if he wants to use his headrests
> later? :-)
> 
>  
> Ted Brooks
I certainly hope you are just kidding?  If you want to cut them
off, you would use a hacksaw (with a blade) not a hacksaw blade
as it would be too hard on the hands to hold the blade and would
take too long to cut.

The blade is used as the tool for sliding down the headrest
shaft to release the lock mechanism.  I know it works, because
I once owned a Chev product (scarey).
>  ______________________________________________________________________
> | Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are my own, and do not reflect    |
> | those of my employer. Advice is free, but you get what you pay for.  |
> |                               ________                               |
> |                         _____|  1955  |_______                       |
> |                        /      Chevrolet      /                       |
> |                       /______  BelAir  _____/                        |
> |                              |________|                              |
> |______________________________________________________________________|
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kevins@eng.auburn.edu (Kevin Sullivan)
Subject: Rear Stabilizer Bar for Plymouth Voyager
Organization: Auburn University Engineering
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 14:17:52 GMT

Just bought an 89 Voyager LE with 2.5 turbo 4 and am happy with it so far.
I'm thinking a rear stabilizer bar would be a good addition.  Any suggestions
on where to get one that's properly matched to the vehicle?  Or if you think
this is not a good idea, let me know.

Thanks, 
Kevin Sullivan
From: singh@r-node.gts.org (Rajendra Singh)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
Subject: Re: Z24 CHEVY
Date: 12 Aug 92 19:12:36 GMT
Organization: Public Access UNIX Information System

In article <11AUG92.06310170.0058@VM1.MCGILL.CA> CCMG <CCMG@MUSICA.MCGILL.CA> writes:
>I own a 1989 CHEVROLET Z24 CAVALIER V6, I am very satisfied with
>this car, the engine runs very good.Any comments from anybody
>about the Z24? Also any mail group for this car?

Yes!  Most Z24 drivers think they're driving a ZR1, i. e. they think they
have a fast car because the engine displacement is (relatively) large.
-- 
Raj (singh@r-node.pci.on.ca)
E-Mail:  tcomsing@ravine.scar.utoronto.ca, tcomsing@bluffs.scar.utoronto.ca
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: SESPC393@ysub.ysu.edu
Subject: 1960 AC Greyhound with Bristol engine
Organization: Youngstown State University
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1992 07:00:54 GMT

Hello: I would like to introduce my self to those on the net with an interest
in older exotic sports cars. I am the owner of a shop that specializes in
repair/restoration of these beasts. Last week one of my favorite customers
had me get his AC out of a 6 year storage. He had the car shipped over from
the UK and spent 6 hours on the docks trying to get it started. When he
finally got it started, he drove it straight through without stopping to
the garage I pulled it out of. He told me he had to accelerate like crazy
down any inclines on the way home in order to make it up the next hill!
Any way to make a long story short, I drained the old gas out of the tank
and set the timing and it fired right up. The bristol engine is a really
slick little unit! It is a in-line 2.2 liter six with a hemi head where
the valves are opened by push rods and a cam down in the block. The valves
on the far side of the engine from the cam have two rocker arms, one on each
side of the head with an additional pushrod running horizontally across the
top of the head between them. The intake ports are located vertically in the
center of the head(between the horizontal pushrods) for a nice straight shot
down into the combustion chambers. In the 50's and early 60's it developed
110hp in road tune. The Grayhound is a 2+2 aluminium bodied/tubular framed
hand built car with 4-wheel independent suspension, 4-spd with overdrive,
front disc brakes and al-fin aluminium rear drums. From the paperwork my
customer got with the car, this one (one of about 70 built) was the Paris
show car when this model was introduced.After doing a complete rebuild on
the brake system, I found that while it was not blinding fast it is very
entertaining to drive. If this all sounds like a sales pitch your correct!
My customer has just expanded his colection with two Ferrari 330 GT 2+2
and would like to sell this little honey. Further details can be had by E-
mailing me at 00017210@192.55.234.10 or sduchene@macs.ysu.edu.
 
                                       Steve DuChene
Handson Engineering
Yo. Ohio USA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bilge@maxim.com (Filippo Morelli)
Subject: Re: Help needed  '84 Celica GT
Organization: MAXIM Technologies Inc., Vienna VA
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 18:42:30 GMT

There are several common problems which can cause overheating. A good
shop that handles Toyotas in the area could solve it quite easily.
Most likely, you have one of three problems.

	Thermostat problem.
	Fan clutch problem.
	Clogged passages in the radiator.
	Clogged passages in the engine.
	Water pump ended its life.

	You may want to reverse flush the radiator (ala Prestone kit
	at your local auto store). Even with a clog, you might not
	fix it this way. If you have been good about replacing the
	coolant every 1 - 2 years, you probably don't have a clog.
	Water pump or fan clutch is a good bet, since you've already
	replaced the thermostat.

	It's not the head gasket. You'd have to leak so much fluid that
	the car would hydrostatically lock. Plus you'd get one hell of
	a sweet smelling exhaust.


Good luck

Filippo Morelli
bilge@maxim.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech