HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: stavros@agora.rain.com (Steve Culliton)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: want to drill and thread holes
Date: 24 Jan 93 21:16:09 GMT
Article-I.D.: agora.C1Dn31.G90
Organization: Open Communications Forum

In article <1993Jan21.201540.3669@adobe.com> pngai@adobe.com (Phil Ngai) writes:
>In article <4155@ecicrl.ocunix.on.ca> clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis) writes:
>>Rather than threading the thing, if you always use it on a flat surface,
>>simple steel pins would suffice.  Or with a bit of metal work, maybe
>>you could insert spring retainers in them and use them like miniature
>>bench dogs.
>
>I should probably give an example of what I want to do. For quick and
>dirty projects, like putting together a rectangle with screws, for a
>baby's high chair, I want to take the four sticks and hold them in a
>rectangle, then drill pilot holes and put screws in. This would mean
>having two or four (with only two, I'd have to do the corners one by
>one) "alignment pieces" bolted to the base. In addition, I'd like to
>mount clamps on the alignment pieces to hold the work while I drill and
>screw. So steel pins might not resist the vertical forces from the
>clamps. Perhaps that's an argument for horizontal clamps.
>
>Anyway, if this all seems vague and not completely thought out,
>that's because it is. Suggestions are appreciated. Also, I find
>myself unable to reply to some people because of broken return
>addresses so I just want to say thanks to everyone who has offered
>ideas.
>
>-- 
>My opinions are my own.
>
Hmm... seems my other post didn't get out.  If you are talking about drilling
and tapping in metal, get c combination drill/tap.  Best used with a drill
press (and safest also) you drill and tap in one operation.  Very easy.  I
use one at work, and it really cuts down on the labor and time.  TTFN

aaly 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: hollen@megatek.UUCP (Dion Hollenbeck)
Subject: Re: Removing stuck router bits
Organization: Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 18:58:49 GMT

>>>>> On 21 Jan 93 01:45:35 GMT, larrym@ssec.wisc.edu (Larry McGuire ) said:


Larry> Does anyone have any tips for easily removing stuck router bits from 
Larry> the collet?  I seem to remember this discussed in some magazine
Larry> before but I can't recall what the advice was.  Is there some type
Larry> of product used to grab onto the shaft so that I don't have to tap the
Larry> side of those expensive little buggers?

Boy is it nice to be able to tell someone an easy solution.  Don't tap
the router bit, tap the nut which gets tightened over the collet.
This will cause the collet to let go and then you can just pick the
bit out with your fingers.  It would be good thing to clean up bits,
collets and chuck when you get it apart.

-- 
Dion Hollenbeck                        Email: hollen@megatek.com
Senior Software Engineer                      megatek!hollen@uunet.uu.net
Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California    ucsd!megatek.uucp!hollen
From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 22:10:42 GMT
Subject: Re: Polycarbonate prices (was: Re: want to drill and thread holes)
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

hollen@megatek.UUCP (Dion Hollenbeck) writes:
>>>>>> On Tue, 19 Jan 1993 20:44:27 GMT, gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz) said:
>
>Paul>    DON'T buy it from catalogs like Woodworker's Supply.  They overcharge
>Paul>    outrageously for this stuff.   Example:  recently WS was selling 
>Paul>    approximately 10X10 Polycarbonate squares for $19.95.   Usually you
>Paul>    can pick up pieces like this out of the scrap bin at TAP Plasics and
>Paul>    pay $.50 a lb for it.   10X10" Polycarbonate at 3/8" thich would weigh
>Paul>    about 9 ounces...
>
>Well, maybe the TAP Plastics house is unusual.  We have a few here and
>I have been looking for 3/8" PolyCarbonate scraps on and off for
>about a year now, and no soap.  If you can find scraps, you are right,
>the prices are no comparison, but if you price polycarbonate, you will
>see that WS is right in line.  A 2'x4' sheet of 3/8" polycarbonate is
>$78.  That is 8 square feet for $9.75 per square foot.  You however
>were wrong about the size and price.  WS was selling nominal 12"x12"
>pieces (measure out at 11 7/8" square) for $14.95.  Given that they
>had to add labor for cutting it up, a 53% profit is about in line for
>normal mail order operations (or most stores for that matter).  The
>bottom line is that if you cannot find the scraps you are talking
>about, the least amount of money you can spend is $78 to buy more than
>you need.

   
   This is simply wrong, Dion.  Sorry.

   1.  I found 3/8 polycarbonate in the Mountain View TAP scrap bin, yesterday.

   2.  TAP charges $13.70 per square foot, cut to size.  This is significantly
       cheaper than your quotation from Woodworker's Supply.  I bet if I 
       shop around, I can find it even cheaper, cut to size.

   3.  You don't have to buy 2X4 sheets.  Most places will cut it to whatever
       size you want.  TAP will does not add a cutting fee if you just want
       squares.   If you want strange shapes, they will charge you.

   4.  They do offer a price break if you buy 4' X 8' sheets, $10.62 per
       square foot.

   Anyway, I haven't kept track of the cut price that closely because I have
   pretty much always been able to get what I need out of the scrap bin.

   Please note that my posting was not a flame of Woodworker's Supply.  I 
   like the outfit.  I buy stuff from them every once in a while.  I am just
   telling people that it doesn't make sense to order plastics from them
   if there are specialty stores in your area.
From: wack@ariel.ncsl.nist.gov (John Wack)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: workbench height
Date: 28 Jan 93 14:10:27 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: National Institute of Standards & Technology

In article <1k46ggINNe2d@early-bird.think.com> steveo@think.com (stephen anthony) writes:
>
>In thinking about the design of a workbench for myself, I quickly decided 
>on the width and length. However, the height dimension seems a little 
>more difficult to figure out. I thought I'd see what net.wisdom had to
>offer for ideas.
>
>I'm 6'2", and plan to use the bench primarily for hand tool work. Planing,

I'm definately only a weekend woodworker and I'm sure there are others
with better advice than mine, but I'll offer some from the perspective
of having lower back problems.  I have some problem disks in my
lower back that gave me a few years of hell before I learned to deal
with it, but I still notice problems when I'm working at the bench, doing
things like using a hand plane.  Especially with a plane, one tends to
bend the back a lot, leaning forward as one moves the plane - this places
a lot of stress on the lower back.  There are things you can do to
alleviate some of the stress, such as moving with the plane and using
your leg muscles more, but the advice I'd like to offer is that, if you
at all suffer from ANY back problems (and most people do to some degree),
choose a table height a little higher than lower.  You're taller than I
am, so I couldn't say what height your table should be, but I would
say that something of at least 36" or more would be good.  Maybe others
can offer more exact dimensions.

However, if you build a "high" bench, then you'll have to be careful 
when you're sitting at the bench.   For example, I do the chisel work
on dovetails usually sitting at the bench - if the bench is too high,
you'll need a higher chair, etc.  

Good luck!
John Wack
From: lou@scrod.oki.com (Louis Lung)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: RE: And now, more "Hometime" news
Date: 21 Jan 1993 22:17:01 GMT
Organization: Oki Advanced Products Division
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: scrod.oki.com

> BTW:  Has *anyone* heard *anything* about Jo Anne?  Talk about dropping off
>the face of the earth!!

On one interview I saw (somewhere) Dean Johnson said that JoAnne went to pursue
her career in comedy (standup).  She should have stayed - I thought putting 
up concrete office buildings was quite funny ! :)
	-lou
-- 

 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
                      Louis Lung 
      OKI Advanced Products Division
      100 Nickerson Road
      Marlborough, MA 01752
      508-460-8658
Opinions expressed herein are my own; Flames > /dev/null
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 22 Jan 1993 13:17:31 -0800
From:         RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM
Subject: Re: Hey! Lets have a survey....

I'm just finishing the 2nd of 2 sets of rain deer christmas decorations.

Theres a 6" and a 10" deer in each set. There compound cut from 8/4 walnut
and finished in watco medium walnut danish oil and then past wax.

It's my first project with free hand and compound cuts. I've very pleased
with the results; but, they sure took a lot of sanding.

I've had a wooden breef case about 1/2 finished for over a year, I think my
project will be to finish it up.

                        Ron Tye (all opinions my own)
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Extension Table Laminate
Date: 24 Jan 93 18:42:17 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <4320155@hpcc01.corp.hp.com> gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz) writes:
>   Well, you can use either Formica or some other plastic laminate.
 
>   I used Formica for mine.  Or, you can buy MDF that has already 
>   had a coating of melamine applied.   

Most melamine products will gouge and wear through in nothing flat on
surfaces that will be exposed to as much hard usage as a table saw
bed.  Not to mention that most melamines will buckle and bubble 
reasonably quickly if they get any standing water on the surface.
Formica or some other plastic laminate is far better than melamine
in this application. Even tempered hardboard would be better.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Wed, 27 Jan 1993 08:01:28 -0800
From:         RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM
Subject:      Re: Finishing Redwood

I built a redwood & pine picknick table about 2 years ago and finished it
with a 50 / 50 mix of thompsons water seal and deft tung oil (natural color).

It's gotten 1 coating of thompsons since then. There has been some
darkening; but, not much.

It lives outside on the patio (under a plastic tarp most of the time).

                        Hope this helps

                        Ron Tye (all opinons my own)
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 22 Jan 1993 09:00:07 EST
From:         Bill Alexander <ALEX@NKI.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: 9.6v vs 12v cordless drills
              21 Jan 1993 19:56:09 GMT from <gregt@HFGLOBE.INTEL.COM>

On Thu, 21 Jan 1993 19:56:09 GMT Greg Tollefson said:
>I am looking into cordless drills.  What is the performance gain by
>going to the 12v cordless.  The cost adder is 20-30%.  Can both
>handle 3" drywall screws into 2x4's?  Any other WOW.
>
My Panasonic 9.6v drives 3" screws with ease. 9.6's also tend to be a few
ounces lighter than 12's. Those few ounces can add up after a long day of
sheetrocking.
From: biggersc@memstvx1.memst.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Dovetail Questions
Date: 26 Jan 93 00:23:51 -0600
Organization: Memphis State University

In article <3178@tymix.Tymnet.COM>, kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM (John Kopf, X6305) writes:
> You can usually adjust the fit by raising (loosens the fit) or lowering (tightens)
> the cutter a "hair".
> 
> JK

Jeff Roberts asked "Are there dovetail bits with a profile like this...."

Answer....yes, Jeff, there are such bits.  I found one at COLCO in Memphis
in their BOSCH bits.  It has a catalog number of 85133 and is 9/16 diameter,
17/32 flute length, 1/4 shank, 1 3/32 length of shank, and 1 5/8 overall
length....comes carbide tipped and the price was $7.60 (not including
shipping).

It has a little "spur" extended on the bottom of the tail which allows for
space for glue.  The Bosch description stated that #85240 is the same as 
#85133 except it (#85240) does not have the glue slot.

I had never noticed this type of dovetail before.  The salesman stated
that it was used in "production" work.  I am curious if it will work with
the Incra Jig set up.  

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ameres@ithaca.cat.rpi.edu (Eric Ameres)
Subject: Re: Hey! Lets have a survey....
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 19:35:31 GMT

Well, I'm still working on my cabinets! (as most who've been reading
for the past 2 months or so knows).  I've finished (including
finishing) the upper and lower cases (15 total) and am into serious
drawer/door mode.  Wish I had a jointer and planer to straighten out
some of my stock though :( .  A little warp or twist can really throw
a door for a loop.  Rail and stile (pseudo raised panel) construction
is a bear without the proper tools.

  I've wound up using a modification of a recent FWW article on
sticking for the door construction.  I mitre the sticking (inside
molded edge) and use dowel joints to pin the rails and stiles
together.  Mortise and tenon would have been the way to go if I had a
drill press with mortising attachment (with 23 doors, I'd go insane
doing all those mortises by hand).

For those who are just tuning in.  I'm doing a kitchen and bathroom
worth of custom cabinets.  The cases are frameless (Euro-style) 3/4"
edge-banded oak using bicuit joinery.  The doors are solid oak rails
and stiles and slightly planed down 3/8" oak wainscoting.  We went
for an unstained finish with MANY coats of Park's satin Lacquer.

Once I'm done with the cabinet's (and finished with the other
non-ww'ing house renovations) I've gotta fix up my barn to house a
decent shop, so my upcoming projects will probably mostly involve
workbenches, stands, auxiliary tables, etc... then I can concentrate
on furniture.

Eric.
-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Eric Ameres,  Software Engineer                 ameres@cat.rpi.edu
New York State Center for Advanced Technology in Automation & Robotics
Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute - CII 8313, Troy, NY 12180-3590
From: hberg@uiuc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Paste Wood Fillers
Date: 26 Jan 93 17:26:10 GMT
Article-I.D.: ux1.C1H1s1.F8u
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign

In article <2535@blue.cis.pitt.edu> donne+@pitt.edu (Jeffrey D Donne) writes:
>
>	I have been working with red oak, using a Wood-Kote brand of
>paste wood filler to fill the open pores of the wood, which should
>result in a nice smooth finish.  However, the results are not good,
>as the pores do not appear to be filled, and what results is a 
>whitish type of finish in the pores that can only be removed by sanding.
>
You hit the nail on the head...(no pun intended, but very appropriate
for this group :-)).  I've used past wood fillers on oak before, and you
-do- have to sand the wood after the filler has dried.  The instructions
on the can recommend this.  


>  	My question is, what is the proper technique for using paste
>wood fillers, and does anyone have a preferred brand?  Also, do you
>stain first, then use the paste fill?  And finally, what is a good
>method of finishing after the stain/filler -- i.e should I use a tung
>oil finish, a polyurethane, or what?

The way I've used it (based on directions on the can) is to apply the 
filler to the wood using a staff brush across the grain. After it has 
time to dry to a dull finish, you wipe the excess filler off with a rag,
again across the grain.  I then go over the piece lightly with a fine grit 
sandpaper after the filler has dried the recommended time (I usually
wait overnight).  The trick is not to let it dry too long before wiping
the excess off with a rag.  This stuff dries hard.

As for a finish, I have finished pieces with Watco and with polyurethane.
Since I prefer the natural look of oak, I don't use a stain, and when
using Watco I use the "natural" color.

-Steve-
>


-- 
Steve Hilberg       __     "Some people are weatherwise but 
               *   /--      most are otherwise."  BF
              * * x
               * 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: tpc@bnr.ca (Thomas P. Chmara)
Subject: Re: New Workbench (was Re: Hey! Lets have a survey....)
Reply-To: tpc@bnr.ca
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 93 16:37:47 GMT

In article <1993Jan26.221406.15837@bmerh85.bnr.ca>, mlord@bmers63.bnr.ca (Mark Lord) writes:

|> A workbench.. the type with a big end-vise and lots of dog holes.

Sigh; I have dreams of making this bench.  I may actually find time this
spring...

|> This particular bench is based on the new plans from Veritas Tools 
|> (a spin-off of Lee Valley Tools).

Yes; my palms got really sweaty as I read the article in WoodCuts...

|> The distinguishing feature of this bench, is that it uses a 2.5" thick 
|> top, laminated from hardwood plywood, which makes it easy to achieve a
|> stiff, thick, and flat working surface.  The top is made up from two, 2" thick
|> laminated slabs, 10-11" wide, and about 6' long.  These are then glued down
|> onto a .5" plywood "substrate", with a 4-5" gap between them to form a central

LVT is asking on the order of $250CDN for these two "laminated slabs" (aka
hardwood plywood).  I'm curious why you didn't go with standard firply and
laminate 'em yourself; I have *lots* of places where the extra bucks can go.
I'm curious whether you got some "inside info" on *why* to spend $200 over
the cost of a couple of sheets of firply (and, let's be honest, an
aggravating night drilling too damned many holes) -- after all, the beech(?)
tops are *nice*, but the firply's pretty hard, too...

|> To all of that I added the novel "twin screw" end vice from Vertias, with a
|> large maple jaw drilled for dogs on the sides and top, matching those on the
|> main benchtop.  This vice uses a pair of 1.25" acme thread screws, with small
|> sprockets and a bicycle chain connecting them, causing them to turn in unison
|> when either handle is used.  Nifty.  

Yes; I'm definitely going this way when the time comes.  It's a great idea,
kudos to Veritas for coming up with it...

	---tpc---

-- 
I am sole owner of the above opinions. These opinions are furnished without
warranty or liability expressed or implied.  Your mileage may vary.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tom Chmara, P.Eng.|  INTERNET:  tpc@x400gate.bnr.ca	|  Fone:  (613)765-2925
BNR Ltd.	  |  					|  FAX:   (613)763-2626
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 26 Jan 1993 08:14:01 CDT
From:         George Brandsberg <GBRANDSB@OZ.UMB.KSU.EDU>
Organization: KSU Cooperative Extension
Subject:      Re: How do I start with $500?

G. Paul Houtz says...

> >|> I plan to setup some equipments to build some bookshelf kind thing
> >|> for my study room and garage. I am wondering whether I should buy a table
> >|> saw or radial saw? Or do I really need those fancy equipments?
> >|> Also if is there brand/model you can recommend? My budget is ~$500.
> >

My reply:

Take a trip to your local library and browse the book
stacks in the section for Woodworking and Woodworking
tools to get enough of a background to know what you
should buy to do what you want to do.

Obviously, everyone on the WOODWORK list has their own
bit of advice, but I wouldn't start with a table saw.
For what you want to do (if it's only to build
shelves), a circular handsaw may well be satisfactory.
That way, if you decide you don't really like messing
around with woodworking, you haven't invested a lot.

Power hand tools--electric drill, circular handsaw,
sander (disk, belt, orbital), jigsaw or scrollsaw and
router--enable you to do many things.  Be sure to use
eye and hearing protection.

Best of luck!

--George Brandsberg
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jeffs@elsie.nci.nih.gov (Jeffrey Alan Silverman)
Subject: Re: Pipe clamp pipe summary?
Summary: pipe clamp pipe
Organization: National Institutes of Health
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 23:47:54 GMT


 I use 3/4 electrical pipe, it was considerably cheaper and threaded on 
both ends so you can cut it and get two useful pipe clamps.

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: smierch@madeline.com (Edward Smierciak)
Subject: Re: workbench height
Reply-To: smierch@madeline.com
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 93 14:47:23 GMT

In article 1k46ggINNe2d@early-bird.think.com, steveo@think.com (stephen anthony) writes:
>
>In thinking about the design of a workbench for myself, I quickly decided 
>on the width and length. However, the height dimension seems a little 
>more difficult to figure out. I thought I'd see what net.wisdom had to
>offer for ideas.
>
>I'm 6'2", and plan to use the bench primarily for hand tool work. Planing,
>shooting, dovetailing, etc. I will probably be doing some router work
>also. So, what height is appropriate? I believe (I don't have the plans
>in front of me) that Frid's bench is 33" high. I think (but am not sure)
>that this would be too low. Would 35" be more appropriate? 34"? Other?
>Maybe 1 or 2 inches doesn't matter all that much, as long as it's in a 
>reasonable range?
>
>Thanks for any advice you can provide.
>
>Steveo

Steve,

1 or 2 inches matters more than you can imagine.  I'm 6'5" and had worked
on 33" high surfaces for years.  While I'm not heavily into hand tools, it's
not uncommon for me to spend 45 minutes bent over a flakey VCR while standing
at my 36" bench.  The reduction in fatigue that results from working at a properly
scaled bench is amazing.  The logic I used was very simple, but I think sensible:


The average guy is 5'10" (70").  The standard work surface height is 33".  
I'm 6'5" (77"), therefore,

      70     33
      --  x  --
      77     ??

Solving for ?? gives my work surface height at 36.30", so I used 36".
For you, the number works out to be 34.89", so the way I see it, 35" isn't
at all unreasonable.

Ed


---

Ed Smierciak, MTS
NYNEX Science & Technology
500 Westchester Avenue
White Plains, NY 10604


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: eap@vuse.vanderbilt.edu (Edward A. Parrish)
Subject: Re: 9.6v vs 12v cordless drills
Organization: Vanderbilt University School of Engineering, Nashville, TN, USA
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 16:24:32 GMT

In article <C17zDM.Mux@hfglobe.intel.com> gregt@hfglobe.intel.com (Greg Tollefson) writes:
>
>
>
>I am looking into cordless drills.  What is the performance gain by
>going to the 12v cordless.  The cost adder is 20-30%.  Can both 
>handle 3" drywall screws into 2x4's?  Any other WOW.
I've got a small Makita driver/drill (6010 I think) and the larger
9.6v 6095dw. The 9.6 job will drive screws into just about anything.
I've used even the small one drive threaded masonry screws through
2x4's into cinderblock with no problem. Unless you're really dealing
with some unbelievable tasks, I imagine the 9.6 would be more than
satisfactory - especially with torque adjustments. 


-- 
Goal: To benefit from the offer for "Free Tools Tomorrow" that
is posted in many store windows.
Standard Disclaimer, of course.
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