HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: zamick@foghat.rutgers.edu (Zamick)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Kegging Kits
Keywords: Also Thanks
Date: 5 Jan 93 19:11:14 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.


First of all thank you to everyone who sent me information on brewpubs
and microbreweries, the lists were very handy.

Now for the meat of this article:

I was calling up various places trying to put together a relatively
innexpensive kegging set up. It looks like I've found a place that can
provide a full kit with 70# 2-gauge regulators, 2 disconects, 5 or
10lb CO cannister (not sure which) and tubing and such for ~$140.
(also a used keg or two)

As a guess these folks could also provide more complex regulators for
those who like to tap multiple kegs, and other equipment a bit cheaper
than standard.

I'm going to go speak to the people at the supply house about details
tommorow. How much interest is there in corne. keg kits for $140? (I'm
not getting any money out of this, just trying to help put together
something cheap for brewers and see how low this supplier can go.)

Feel free to reply to me over e-mail: zamick@yoko.rutgers.edu

I think this is a good price, if I can get them to set up a basic
package, then I'd be psyched. Send me your inquiries and comments. Is
it a good price? Should I bother trying to convince this company to
set up a kit package? How big is the kegging market at all (this might
effect their willingness to make a sweeter deal for the package...
quantity can help reduce price after all).

Anyway, later again..


Jon Zamick
From: arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Subject: Re: KETTLE MASHING
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 04:28:41 GMT
Organization: ddsw1.MCS.COM Contributor, Chicago, IL

In article <1993Jan6.174726.15887@mmm.serc.3m.com> us279764@mmm.serc.3m.com (Philip . Miller) writes:
> I remember reading a post from Jack in the HBD a while back that
> basically said "Everybody seems to use the picnic cooler mash method
> because that's what Papazian advocates in his book".  Since I was
> thinking of getting into all grain at the time, I actually reread the
> chapter on mashing in TNCJOHB to check it out.  Jack's most recent
> posting contains a statement in a similar vein in his first paragraph
> which jogged my memory.
>
> To wit:  Although Papazian MENTIONS picnic cooler mashing (and has a
> picture of one in his book) he actually advocates mashing in a kettle.
> Papazian (and Miller, for that matter) cite the lack of ease of raising
> the mash temperature in the cooler as its major draw back.  Papazian
> then goes on (in quite some depth) to describe step infusion mashing
> (or kettle mashing ala Jack) and describes how to make the Zapap lauter
> tun.
>
> So, Jack your rather pointed barb at Papazian's book missed the mark
> completely.  You really ought to read it sometime.


Not completely.  If I changed the name to KETTLE SPARGING, it would fix
the oversight but would then leave out the advantages of mashing in the
kettle.  Perhaps you could help me come up with a different title instead
of invoking the Bilderbergers.

The fundamental advantage over Papazian's approach is that he drops the ball
after mashing.  The mash must be transferred to the lauter tun.  In my 
approach, you simple open the spigot.

js
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: George Paap <george_paap@email.sps.mot.com>
Subject: Re: Sumerian Beer recipe
X-Xxdate: Tue, 5 Jan 93 15:34:22 GMT
Organization: Motorola RISC
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d16
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 21:42:12 GMT

In article <1iahtbINNc7j@network.ucsd.edu> Dan Harkins,
dharkins@papillon.ucsd.edu writes:
>this, but I've yet to receive it. Let us know if you try this recipe!

I got mine yesterday, they basically went with a very
minimilist philosophy.  I'm a little confused about
how to make the bread (not having made bread before).

>  -bread (bappir) from barley, roasted barley, malted barley and honey
Thats all they say (which isn't much more than the poem).

They include the Hymn to Ninkasi (beer goddess) and a
copy of the cuniform (I guess in case we want to 
translate it ourself).

I can't wait to try it (once I learn how to mash:)

George Paap

I am my opinions.
(which almost certainly are not those of my employer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing,rec.backcountry
From: jabraham@acs.ucalgary.ca (John Abraham)
Subject: Microfiltering beers?
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 93 19:20:57 GMT
Organization: The University of Calgary, Alberta

Is this essentially the same thing that many micro-breweries do?
(e.g. Big Rock)?

What effect would it have on taste?  On safety?

If I buy it just for backpacking, I'll probably get the cheaper
membrane based filter.  If I can use it for beer too I'll
splurge and get the ceramic one since it has a much longer life
when exposed to noticebly murky fluids like beer.

(FOLLOWUPS - I crossposted to rec.crafts.brewing and
rec.backcountry.  If your followup doesn't apply to both groups
please only followup to one of them!)


-- 
John E. Abraham                       ***** University of Calgary
jabraham@acs.ucalgary.ca               **** Department of Civil Engineering
Mathematical Modelling                  *** 2500 University Dr. N.W.
Computer Simulation                      ** Calgary, AB, T2N 1N4
Transportation and Land Use Interaction   * Canada
From: drw@blink.att.com (Doug Woolley(x2405))
Subject: Re: Maple Beer
Organization: AT&T
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 22:53:26 GMT

guido@island.COM (Guido Marx) writes:

>I have a question about using maple syrup in beer.  Our local
>Trader Joe's has maple syrup on sale for $6.00 per quart.  I 
>am thinking about using this in my next batch.  With the cold
>weather, it is going to have to be a lager.  Any suggestions
>from people who have brewed beer with maple syrup ?

I only tried about a cup and a half in  a stout a few
months ago.  It was fermented at about 70 deg. (ie not
lagered). There wasn't much maple flavor to it; that much
in a lighter brew might show up tho.  Give it a try
and let us know what happens.

Doug Woolley
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: fbruno@ysw526 (F. Bruno)
Subject: Microbrew?
Organization: Lockheed Sanders
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 93 13:48:01 GMT

Can anyone tell me what is needed to start up a microbrewery, i.e.
permits, taxes, whatever.
			Thanks
			Frank

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: phunter@emr1.emr.ca (Paul Hunter)
Subject: Re: Grolsch/Fisher Alsace Bottles
Organization: Dept. of Energy, Mines, and Resources, Ottawa
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8]
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 03:09:58 GMT

Martin Yates (YATES@MAINE.MAINE.EDU) wrote:

> Does anyone have any experience with these bottles?

I use Grolsch bottles exclusively and have done so for many years.
A simple soaking in a sterilizing solution and a good rinse is all
that I ever do. I have yet to change a single rubber ringer, but that
day will come.

All in all, the use of these bottles has allowed me bottle in glass
(the only way to store beer) with no fuss, no muss, no bother. I
recommend them highly.

Rgds.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: cav@bnr.ca (Rick Cavasin)
Subject: Re: Grolsch/Fisher Alsace Bottles
Reply-To: cav@bnr.ca (Rick Cavasin)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 93 17:00:37 GMT

In article <93011.102441YATES@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>, YATES@MAINE.MAINE.EDU (Martin Yates) writes:
|> I'm brand new to this world of home brewing and am still reading myself
|> and collecting equiptment.  I have inherited a collection of Grolsch
|> and Fisher Alsace bottles (the ones with ceramic stoppers, rubber washers,
|> and metal clamps.)  I like the idea of using these bottles but am concerned
|> about sanitation, proper sealing, etc.  Does anyone have any experience
|> with these bottles?
|> 
|> Thanks in advance,
|> Martin Yates

I've been using them extensively since I started brewing several years ago.
I soak them in the same sanitizing solution I use for regular bottles, and
haven't had any problems that could be attributed to the use of these bottles.
Some people remove and boil the gaskets separately, but I don't bother.
You should make sure that the rubber gasket is in good shape to begin with
(I once had a couple of bottles that went moldy after receiving a box of old
dirty bottles.  Even after heavy cleaning, some of the bottles that had been
stored upside down must have had mold impregnated gaskets).  The gaskets are available
in homebrew supply stores so that you can replace them periodically (I see no
reason why they shouldn't last years if they are not abused).  When stowing
empties, I put the top on to keep dust out, but don't clamp it down (hoping this
gives the rubber gasket a chance to 'spring back' for better sealing).
As long as they are not abused (grunge is not allowed to grow on the gasket),
you should have no sanitation
problems with them.  I've never had a sealing problem
either.  I've got around 200 groelsh bottles by the way.  16 fit nicely in
the standard 'milk' crates sold in hardware/department stores.  Wooden crates
with dividers are even better.

Cheers,
Rick C.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: bickham@lynx.msc.cornell.edu.UUCP (Scott Bickham,C17 Clark Hall,56079,2737038)
Subject: Re: Help on a stout bottling time
Originator: bickham@msc2.msc.cornell.edu
Organization: Cornell-Materials-Science-Center
Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1993 00:58:53 GMT

From article <C0M2Iv.C3v@ucunix.san.uc.edu>, by raismana@ucunix.san.uc.edu (Neal A Raisman):
>   I could use some help please on a stout I am making.  I mixed up a batch
>   of 9 lbs. American of dark unhopped extract in a recipe calling for 6 lbs.
>   to change the taste etc.  Added hops and various barleys to flavor.  
>   Starting sq was 1.061.  It has fermented for two weeks.  Rapid at first,
> BAbut now rather slow, if at all.  SQ was measuerd at 1.023 tonight.  It is 
>   sitting safely at 70 degrees.  My question is, should I think it is a
>   stuck batch since it seems to have stopped fermenting or should I believe 
> it has fermented as far as it will?  If stuck, any recommedation on what 
> to use to unstick it?
> 

The change in gravity would only give an apparent attenuation of 62%,
while typical ale yeasts are around 75%.  This could mean a stuck
fermentation.  Some of the breweries that make high gravity beers have
to agitate the beer during the fermentation to rouse the yeast.  This
might awaken your yeast also, so gently rock the carboy or bucket for
a couple a minutes, and then wait another week or so for it to clear, and
then bottle.

Scott
From: arthur@sgi.com (Arthur Evans)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Cornelius kegs - preparation?
Date: 11 Jan 93 20:24:42 GMT
Reply-To: arthur@chiba (Arthur Evans)
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc.

In article <1993Jan7.122210.567@doc.bmd.trw.com> jharres@doc.bmd.trw.com writes:
>I plan on kegging with a Cornelius keg in the future and was fortunate to
>have 3 kegs given to me. They have not been used for any beer kegging yet.
>
>What needs to be done to them to get ready?  What needs to be replaced (if
>anything) to set it up? etc.  etc.  etc.

The things you'll usually have to replace are the rubber gaskets.
Especially if they've gotten too stiff to form a good seal, or smell
like root beer.

There's one big rubber gasket around the main opening on top of
the keg.  There is a small gasket on the outside of each of the
disconnects (where you attach the beer and gas lines) which should
be visible when the keg is assebled, and I think there is another
gasket inside the disconnect, for the check valve (the thing that
seals the keg when you remove the beer or gas line).  You can remove
the disconnects from the keg using a crescent wrench, or other 
torque application device.

Once you've removed the disconnects, clean everything, replace the
rubber bits, and put the keg back together.  Then fill the keg with
a cleaning solution (like water with a little TSP).  Pressurize
the keg and make sure it seals (dribble a little soapy water on 
disconnects and the main gasket, and watch for bubbles).  You may
have to put ten or fifteen pounds of pressure in the keg to get
a seal at first.  Let the cleaning solution stand for a while (you
might want to turn the keg over for some portion of this time).  
Then drain the keg through its internal plumbing.  Disconnect the
gas line, and depressurize the keg using the release valve (if
you have the pull-ring-release-valve kind) or by pressing down
the check valve on the gas line disconnect, using a pen or other
pointy thing.

Always make sure to depressurize your keg using the *gas line* 
disconnect, lest you get a face full of foam.

Anyway, you can use the same basic method to rinse your keg.
Before putting beer in a keg, I fill it with a  mild sanitizing 
solution (a teaspoon of bleach in five gallons) and drain that
through the plumbing, then rinse it with a gallon or so of water
(again, drained through the plumbing).

Anyway, that's about what I do--did I miss anything, folks?

-arthur
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Subject: Re: hops
Summary: growing hops
Keywords: hops
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean  VA
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 16:53:30 GMT

In article <1670@tecsun1.tec.army.mil>
 blyler@tecsun1.tec.army.mil (Todd Blyler) writes:

>I would like to try to grow some hops this spring. Not really 
>for brewing but for the fun of it. ( of course I might try a
>batch with them). Any info on where to get the rhizomes (sp?)
>or cuttings to get started ???

1) Freshops, they are dedicated to selling hops in all types.
2) Brewing Supply Store--many carry the hop rhizomes.
3) Fellow Hop Grower (check at homebrew club meetings).

P.S. netmail me for info on the DC-area club (BURP).  I know at least 
several people there have started others by giving them cuttings.

John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own
Fidonet:  1:109/131  Internet:  jdecarlo@mitre.org
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: ralph@minnow.sp.unisys.com (Ralph Smith)
Subject: Need Yeast info
Reply-To: ralph@minnow.UUCP (Ralph Smith)
Organization: Unisys Corporation
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 13:35:36 GMT

Please help me!
I am soon leaving the 'net' and I would like to get my hands on a summary
of commercially available yeasts and their characteristics. If you have
it, I would appreciate it if you would send it. I tried the local brew
shops but none could find it.
Thank you,Thank you,Thank You!
(Multiple response welcomed)

-- 
Ralph Smith 
Unisys Corporation         email to:
(612) 635-3008             minnow%ralph@rosevax.rosemount.com
From: rcm@col.hp.com (hpctdfc)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Help on a stout bottling time
Date: 12 Jan 1993 20:44:59 GMT
Organization: where?
NNTP-Posting-Host: hpctdfc.col.hp.com

raismana@ucunix.san.uc.edu (Neal A Raisman) writes:
>   I could use some help please on a stout I am making.  I mixed up a batch
>   of 9 lbs. American of dark unhopped extract in a recipe calling for 6 lbs.
>   to change the taste etc.  Added hops and various barleys to flavor.  
>   Starting sq was 1.061.  It has fermented for two weeks.  Rapid at first,
> BAbut now rather slow, if at all.  SQ was measuerd at 1.023 tonight.  It is 
>   sitting safely at 70 degrees.  My question is, should I think it is a
>   stuck batch since it seems to have stopped fermenting or should I believe it
>   has fermented as far as it will?  If stuck, any recommedation on what to use
>   to unstick it?

Well, I've been brewing for a little over three years now, and until
now I have never heard of "SQ".  What is "SQ"???  I know what OG, SG,
and FG are, but I don't know what "SQ" is - enlighten me.  
On to your question - you didn't list what the "various barleys" were,
so we cannot give a valid response to it without knowing just what it
was you used!  If you used a lot of crystal malt and roasted
barley, then I would say you do NOT have a stuck fermentation...most
stouts have a fairly high final gravity. 

Rick
From: rcm@col.hp.com (hpctdfc)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Make you go blind? (was: Re: homebrew cop tv)
Date: 6 Jan 1993 22:08:04 GMT
Organization: where?
NNTP-Posting-Host: hpctdfc.col.hp.com

> Excuse me, but how can one produce poison by distilling beer?  It
> seems that by distilling all you can get it higher concentrations of
> *something* & chances are that it'll be ethanol.

In the old days moonshiners used to use old radiators to cool the
distillate, thus leaching lead from the solder used in the radiators
manufacture...

Rick
From: larrylf@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Larry Lynch-Freshner)
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 02:09:00 GMT
Subject: Re: All Grain brew
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing

I would look at your process.  You say you sparged '3 times' with hot water,
but you still had to add 3 gal at the end?  Also, do not pour the boiled wort
through the grain again, this is a good way to introduce contamination.

Here is a suggested new process:
Mash as before (Though you may want to use more grain)
sparge with 4 gal of 170-180 deg. water
add water to collected wort to make 5.5-6 gal wort (if nessessary)
boil - add hops after boil has started.
cool - quickly
Take gravity reading
add yeast.

With grain properly crushed, you should yield somewhere around 1.030. 
(using 7 lbs grain).  Also, make sure you take the gravity reading after
the wort has cooled, it will read lower if hotter.

Good Luck!

Larry L-F

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: fortner@hal.eng.ufl.edu (Dave Fortner)
Subject: Re: Make you go blind? (was: Re: homebrew cop tv)
Organization: University of Florida
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 93 12:33:56 GMT

In article <Jan.5.23.38.56.1993.26129@pilot.njin.net> pfaffman@pilot.njin.net (Jay Pfaffman) writes:
>Excuse me, but how can one produce poison by distilling beer?  It
>seems that by distilling all you can get it higher concentrations of
>*something* & chances are that it'll be ethanol.
>
The problem that you have is that distillation can create Isopropyl 
alcohol if there is any woody type material in the mash. I suspect that
if you distill a mash which has the grain husks in it, you will get
the Isopropyl alcohol (IPA). Drinking IPA can cause blindness and/or death.a
Another name for IPA is Rubbing Alcohol.

Dave Fortner
Fortner-D@3mail.ksc.nasa.gov

Disclaimer: I AIN'T RESPONSIBLE FOR NOTHIN'

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: smmyers@foghorn.srv.pacbell.com (Sean Myers)
Subject: Priming
Organization: Pacific Bell OSSEM
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 22:11:57 GMT


     As a new brewer, I have a question about priming.  How ???  Do you put the
gyle or sugar in the bottles, or (more likely I think) do you mix it in when
you move the beer from the carboy ?  And if so, is it ok to stir it, or should
you put your primer in the bucket first and then let it mix when you siphon the
beer from the carboy ?

Thanks,

       _____  _____   ___   __  _       __  __ _____ ____  _____  _____ 
      |   __||   __| /   \ |  \| |     |  \/  |\ | /|  __||     \|   __|
      |__   ||   __||  ^  ||     |     |      | | | |  __||  ^  /|__   |
      |_____||_____||__|__||_|\__|     |_|\/|_| |_| |____||__|__\|_____|
  -+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+-
  + Sean M. Myers (smmyers@pbhyg.PacBell.COM)|                              +
  = Systems Analyst                          |    THIS SPACE FOR RENT...    =
  + Operator Services                        |                              +
  = Software Engineering and Maintenance     |                              =
  + Pacific Bell (SRV complex) CA. USA       |                              +
  -+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+-
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: james@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (James White)
Subject: Re: dark beer
Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1993 14:01:28 GMT
Reply-To: JamesWhite@vnet.ibm.com
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM Rochester

In article <C0GM2F.3J9@news.udel.edu>, sex@chopin.udel.edu (Martin Solo Schamis) writes:
|> I am not sure if this has been covered before in this newsgroup or not,
|> if so, please just email me the answers to my questions.
|> 
|> A friend of mine and myself were downing a six pack of dark beer this evening
|> and discussing what exactly determines the color and richness of the
|> beer.  We were wondering whether it was the hops or the brewing time or a
|> certain concentration of this or that.  
|> Anyway, we were just wondering what exactly makes a dark beer (such as Guinness)
|> dark, and a light beer light.......any help is appreciated.
|> 
|> Martin
|> 
|> e-mail appreciated at 
|> sex@brahms.udel.edu


You will probably get some really good answers to your questions, but I will
post mine anyway.  I too enjoy dark beers.  Lately I have been taken by oatmeal
stouts.  The color (and possibly richness) seems to come from the black malt, 
chocolate malt, and roasted barley that I put in.
 
Now if I can figure out why my pale ale is so dark when I only used chrystal malt
(40 degrees L) and some light dry malt extract.
 
Cheers!

-- 

James White 
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Subject: "Green" Beer
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean  VA
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 13:41:52 GMT

*** -----------
*** Forwarded note from vincent curtis, sent 01/08/93 at 20:34:33...
*** -----------

From: vincent curtis <curtis@cs.odu.edu>

I brewed a recent batch of beer using Hallertauer hops.  My local homebrew
shop carried these hops compressed into nuggets about 1 1/2 in. in diameter
and about 1/2 to 3/4 in. thick.  These hops expanded into the whole hop
flower when boiled in the wort.  I used one of Papazian's recipes which
called for 3 to 3 1/2 oz. of Hallertauer for boiling (45 min) and 1/2 oz. 
for finishing (additional 5 min of boiling), and 6 lbs. of light dry malt 
extract, and lager yeast.  The OG=1.049.  Tonight I noticed the beer was 
beginning to settle so I took a gravity reading -- 1.030.  I also tasted 
some of the beer and it tasted rather "green".  Now, will this 
"greenishness" subside after I prime (I plan to prime with malt) or will I 
be stuck with 5 gal. of beer that taste like lawn clippings?  BTW, I tried a 
single stage fermentation this time (began brewing this batch on Dec 26).  I 
rather enjoy a good hoppy beer, but I've never tasted one that was "green" 
like this.  I know, don't worry, have a homebrew, but I'm a little 
concerned.  My last batch turned out fine where I used Cascade and Fuggles 
hops.  Have you ever experienced something like this?

-VEC
curtis@cs.odu.edu

P.S.  Could you please post this to rec.crafts.brewing for me.  There's some
kind of problem with the Pnews utility here at my Unix site and I haven't 
been able to post for awhile.  Thanx.


John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own
Fidonet:  1:109/131  Internet:  jdecarlo@mitre.org
From: kludge@grissom.larc.nasa.gov (Scott Dorsey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Make you go blind? (was: Re: homebrew cop tv)
Date: 7 Jan 1993 14:38:41 GMT
Organization: NASA Langley Research Center and Reptile Farm
NNTP-Posting-Host: grissom.larc.nasa.gov

In article <1ifl84INN8ca@hp-col.col.hp.com> rcm@col.hp.com (hpctdfc) writes:
>> Excuse me, but how can one produce poison by distilling beer?  It
>> seems that by distilling all you can get it higher concentrations of
>> *something* & chances are that it'll be ethanol.
>
>In the old days moonshiners used to use old radiators to cool the
>distillate, thus leaching lead from the solder used in the radiators
>manufacture...

No, _these_ days moonshiners use old radiators to cool the distillate.
Before prohibition, moonshiners actually drank the liquor they made and
had some concern about its quality.  These days they do things like
add potash to lower the specific gravity to make it seem as if it is
stronger than it really is.  Yecch.
--scott
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing