HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: dchill@sequent.com (Duncan Hill)
Subject: Wanted: Corrado Snow Tires
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems (Canada) Ltd.
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 15:54:59 GMT

Hi, I recently purchased a Corrado and I need some snows.
If anyone has any to sell or knows an inexpensive source
I would be interested.
Thanks,   dchill@gateway.sequent.com  416-629-4000
	  Duncan Hill, Toronto, Canada
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: Cool Air from Heater
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 13:50:30 GMT

This weekend I had to make a quick trip up to New Hampshire, and
this gave me an opportunity to check out the heater in my 86 GTI.
It worked fine on the highway, and when "cruising" along on the
secondary roads, however when I was either in traffic, or driving
below 30 mph, I noticed that the air comming out of the heater
would get progressively cooler eventhough the temp gague
was in its normal position.

This is the first time this has happened since I have owned
the car (6 yrs & 190k miles)....any suggestions?

Ric Golen
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: BARANSKI@veamf1.nusc.navy.mil (Jim Baranski)
Subject: Help! Put oil in a Bug, and it disappears!
Organization: Naval Underwater Sound Center, New London CT
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 92 17:01:03 GMT
X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.20

I have a 71' bug, which has recently developed a problem.

I've been putting a *lot* of oil into it recently, like a quart every fill up!
Yet it only smokes a little only when it starts up, and it isn't leaking.

Where could the oil be going?  The front seal was just replaced, and I've heard
that oil can leak into the clutch housing...

Jim Baranski
From: tgpt_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Tom Guptill)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Source for used VW parts...
Date: 19 Nov 92 20:56:25 GMT
Distribution: wny
Organization: University of Rochester (Rochester, NY)


*** THIS IS NOT A COMMERCIAL POSTING.  I AM IN NO WAY AFFILIATED ***
*** WITH ZERNIAK'S AUTO PARTS! ***

[note that Distribution: is "wny".  Please maintain this in any followups.]

	Just thought I'd let you VW fans in western NY know about a place
where you can find parts.  Zerniak's Auto Parts (NY 104 just west of Rt. 19,
Brockport) has a *ton* of old VWs.  They have lots of Bugs, Rabbits, &
Busses.  (Yup.  Equal opportunity air-cooled/water-cooled) They also had a
couple of old fastback/squarebacks and what looks like it might have (at one
time) been a Fox.  Their prices were pretty good and the staff was friendly
& helpful.  I didn't see any Jettas, Sciroccos, or Dashers and the Fox was
the only thing I saw newer than '84.  But if you have a bug, bus, or Rabbit
they've got practically anything you could want.  (Not many diesels, though,
and as of this afternoon they're entirely out of diesel air cleaner covers
:).) Again, I'M NOT AFFILIATED WITH THEM!  I just figured I'd let you folks
know about a good source of parts.  Happy motoring!


-- 
| Tom Guptill           | tgpt_ltd@cc.rochester.edu (internet) |
| CPU Box 277445 U of R | tgpt_ltd@uordbv (bitnet)             |
| Rochester NY 14627    |                                      |
| (716) 274-0156        |                                      |
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: dans@panix.com (Dan Simoes)
Subject: Audi/VW radio for sale
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 22:08:16 GMT
Organization: PANIX Public Access Unix & Internet, NYC


Hello all,
	I have for sale a perfectly good Audi Wiesbaden radio, made by 
Matushita (Panasonic, Technics, etc) for Blaupunkt, and which was OEM 
for Audi and some VWs.

This is the anti-theft model with the 4 digit code (yes, I have the current
code), 5 AM+5 FM presets, autoreverse cassete with Dolby B and tape search.

You'll need to add a separate amplifier for the rear speakers, or run all
4 speakers off the front outputs (I did both).  I *may* have the adapters
needed for the radio, otherwise you'll have to get them at the dealer
or elsewhere (the dealer wants about $20).

If you lost your stock radio, here's a good chance to get a theft-proof
:-) model with good sound and lots of features.

Oh, it's got this cool 'hydraulic-like' tape mechanism that 'sucks' the tape
in when you just touch it.  Also, the controls are full-logic.

I'll take the best offer, although I'm partial to local folk...

| Dan |

-- 
Dan Simoes                                       Voice: 914.747.2900 x415
Danix Consulting                                 email: dans@panix.com or
Yorktown Heights, NY                                     dans@danix.uucp
From: papp@morbid.llnl.gov (Albert L. Papp III)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: 68 VW Bus Clutch noise?
Date: 19 Nov 92 01:52:33 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Lawrence Livermore National Laboratory

Recently, my Bus has started making a new noise.  When the engine is cold and just
started, there is an annoying rumbling sound (sounds like a bearing type noise
to me) as the car idles in neutral with the clutch pedal up.  If I push the 
clutch all the way in (car still in neutral) the noise goes completely away.  
Also, I noticed that pushing the clutch in allows the car to idle slightly faster.
Is this normal, or is there some clutch resistance that shouldn't be there?  
When the engine is all warmed up, the noise is not present regardless of clutch 
position.  Apart from the noise, the clutch (and car) operates just fine.

Any ideas on the source of the noise?  Also, might this be a problem I should
remedy quickly or can I leave it go for awhile assuming things don't get much
worse?

Thanks,
-Al

papp@morbid.llnl.gov

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: jmesser@morgan.ucs.mun.ca (James Messer )
Subject: VW Rabbit Engine Timing Trouble
Organization: Memorial University of Newfoundland
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1992 00:22:49 GMT

Howdy. I have been reading this news group for about two weeks now and
finally figured out how to post something. I have a few questions to ask
about my trusty 77 Rabbit. I have done just about every conceivable
repair job to this car including an engine change over. The only thing I
have not done, I think, is change the gas tank (I think I would rather
buy another car before I did that.) Any way inspite of this (vast)
expeience in being under my car (perhaps more often than in, it is 15
years old) I know little about how the timing works. I have only the
Haynes manual and it has served me well but on a students budget the
tools required for the setting of the timing are beyond my reach. I was
wondering if there are any unorthodox ways of setting the timing which
will work well enough. The engine is out of an 81 Rabbit. 1.7l gas
injected. The engine idles at about 400-600 rpm once it has warmed up.
When I step on the gas it sort of chuggs a bit then the rpms jump up
leading to a sudden lurch of the line. Also under a heavy gas foot,
which seems to be nessacary, there is a noticable ticking noise. This is
not present when deaccelerating. It is louder in the car than under the
hood. The coil seems fine, the plugs are new and set correctly, the
distributer cap is new as is the rotor arm. The coil seems fineand so do
the wires. To me it seems to be a timing problem. Any suggestions?

jmesser@morgan.ucs.mun.ca     (Murdo Messer a.k.a. MUD)
From: sylveste@ecs.umass.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: funny electrical connection??
Date: 20 Nov 92 12:34:29 GMT
Distribution: na

In article <69y1x7c@rpi.edu>, squiec@vccnw14.its.rpi.edu (Craig L. Squier) writes:
> In article <1992Nov19.164845.15560@ee.eng.ohio-state.edu> roden@phonon.eng.ohio-state.edu (Christoph A Roden) writes:
>>I have a 1981 VW scirocco ( electronic ignition, o2 sensor)
>>The other day I was doing some work with the fuse panel.  I took all 5
>>of the square wiring harness out of the back of the fuse panel.  When
>>I was done, I reconnected everything, plugged the wiring harnesses
>>back into the fuse box and remounted the fuse box.  The next day when
>>I started the car the engine was vibrating funny.  While driving, the
>>engine conntinued to vibrate funny, and the car had no power.  I would
>>rev it up but I just could not get any power out of it.  My car's idle
>>speed was fine and didn't fluctuate.
>>My car was now warmed up (driving for 10-15min) and still acting the same.
>>Finally I drove it hard from a stop light and while in the middle of
>>'trying'  to accelarate hard, my car just started acting normal.  Just
>>as if a switch had been turned.  My car has been driving fine ever
>>since.  I was just curious if anyone had any guesses as to what might
>>have been wrong.  
>>I imagine that one of the wires into the back of the fuse box was not
>>making proper contact.  I have looked at a schematic and tried to
>>quess at a few, but none of them make sense.  I was curious if anyone
>>would know which connections would allow the engine to run semi O.K.
>>put with no power and extra vibration.
>>
>>I would like to try to find out what caused it so i can check the
>>connection and will know what to do if it happens again.
>>
>>Thanks for the help.
>>Chris
>> 
> 
>    	I don't remember for sure, but I remember reading somewhere about the
>   FI unit remmbering it's settings, using latent 12V power from the batt. at
>   a REALLY low drain to keep them intact. By removing the fuse link you may 
>   have caused it to "forget" it's settings. Thereby causing nasty running for
>   a while until it could renew and restore them to "normal". An interesting
>   test would be to discconnect them again and see if it happens again. I'm
>   pretty sure the KE injections have this but I don't know about the A1
>   K-type injections. The alternative would just be and unfitted contact pin
>   that got contact after a heavy vibration(your quick acceleration...).
>   I dunno, any comments????                  -Craig
> 


  KE Jetronic has no memory.  Your problem could be a bad conection.

Very funny things can happen when there are bad connections in the 
wiring especially if its a bad ground.

It is possible that your problem is unrelated to your fooling around 
with the fuse box.


                                          Mike Sylvester  Umass
                                          sylveste@ecs.umass.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: markl@netcom.com (Mark Lentczner)
Subject: Random Engine Cut Out Solved!
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 16:35:02 GMT

A while ago I posted my woes of intermitent ignition failure
in my 85 VW Cabriolet.  Thanks to the many responses the car
is now running fine.  I took the most popular suggestion to
my mechanic and it worked: replacing the hall sender unit.
Need I mention that this cost about 1/4 of what I had spent
trying to fix this problem to date?!?!?

Thanks all who responded e-mail & news!

-mark 
 markl@netcom.com
From: ghee@vision.larc.nasa.gov (Terry A. Ghee)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: info on jetta
Date: 17 Nov 1992 12:22:16 GMT
Organization: NASA Langley Research Center, Hampton, VA  USA
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: vision.larc.nasa.gov

Speaking as a poor-novice-looking-to-save-money-by-repairing-my-car-myself guy,
I have a Bentley manual and a Chiltons manual for 1988 Fox.  Personally, I use
the Bentley manualto tell me the specs and the chiltons to find out how to do
things without the VW tools.  I personally have been confused by my Bentley
manual and have used the chiltons to show me the light.  I'm not always
impressed with the clarity of my Bentley manual nor always impressed with the
accurateness of the chiltons.  However, with the hope  of both, I usually get
something done with a minimal amount of cussing.  Just my experience, your
experience may vary (and probably does!).

Terry Ghee
From: finnegan@invader.navo.navy.mil (Kenneth Finnegan)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Do insurance companies hate VWs?
Date: 17 Nov 92 15:08:02 GMT
Article-I.D.: cs.1992Nov17.150802.20214
Reply-To: finnegan@navo.navy.mil
Organization: Grumman Data Systems
Nntp-Posting-Host-[nntpd-2433]: invader.navo.navy.mil

In article <1992Nov16.181458.11965@bsu-ucs>, 01ksdavis@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu (Rebel without a clue.) writes:
|> [Plight of Water-cooled VW owners insurance rates dropped for space only, in no 
|> way am I trying to lessen it's impact.]

Ditto.

|> 
|> 
|> I do think the insurance companies have it in for us VW owners.  If you
|> happen to drive a water-cooled VW, get prepared to pay high premiums, if you 
|> drive an older, air-cooled VW, be prepared again to pay high premiums.|> 

All too familiar tale of insurance woe deleted ;-(  FUNNY YOU SHOULD MENTION 
STATE FARM ;-) ..........

I had a 1975 Scirroco, on which I carried liability coverage through
State Farm.  A guy in a huge Pontiac comes along and totals my car.
I had TWO witnesses that saw the whole accident testify to the police
and the insurance agents that the other guy attempted to pass me at
a high rate of speed in a residential zone and clipped my front left
fender.  The other guy carried NO INSURANCE.  The cop that showed up
happened to be a friend of the guy that hit me (who was a volunteer
fireman) and flatly refused to assign blame in the accident.

So, my lovely insurance company has two options:  (1) Assign blame
to the other driver, pay to replace my car, and sue him for the
amount of replacement or (2) blame the accident on me, pay the
$150 to replace the cracked fiberglass on his car, and kiss
me goodbye.  Guess which one they chose?  Yes, unbelievable as it
may seem, STATE FARM sided with the UNINSURED MOTORIST in favor
of a faithful customer, even in light of the testimony of two
witnesses that said the accident was the other driver's fault.

Every time someone tells me how great STATE FARM is, I ask them,
"How many claims have you filed?"  The answer is usually, "None, why?"
Hee Hee.  Just you wait.

Kenneth
.......................................................................
From: tgpt_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Tom Guptill)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Keeping Your Watercooled VW cool.
Date: 15 Nov 92 22:52:38 GMT
Organization: University of Rochester - Rochester, New York



	Diesel owners take note:  running the fan constantly will probably
cost you a bit of power.  (Engine power --> alternator --> electricity to
run fan)  I notice a change when my fan cycles on and off.  These spoiled :)
GTI owners have a bit more power to play with than we do.

		Tom

-- 
| Tom Guptill           | tgpt_ltd@cc.rochester.edu (internet) |
| CPU Box 277445 U of R | tgpt_ltd@uordbv (bitnet)             |
| Rochester NY 14627    |                                      |
| (716) 274-0156        |                                      |
From: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: info on jetta
Date: 16 Nov 1992 22:21:24 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, squiec@jec321.its.rpi.edu (Craig L. Squier) says:

>In article <1e4te6INN58m@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer) writes:
>>
>>In a previous article, ereddy@morgan.ucs.mun.ca (Edward Reddy  MI) says:
>>
>>>Experiences? Well, let me begin. First to go on my 85 JettaGL was a
>>
>>>summer. Then 2 solid lifters had to be replaced. The timing belt
>>                ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~HUH???..didn't they go hydraulic in 85???
>>
>>>this spring. She needs 4 more solid lifters, Flywheel, and someone to
>>                          ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>>again..i thought they went hydraulic..or are you saying that the once
>>hyds are now solid?..just curious..
>>
>>>Sound pesimistic? Nope. I love my car. It handles like a dream. Smooth
>>whew!!..had me worried!
>>
>>DREW
>>-- 
>>??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
>>??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
>>?????????????????????????????????-----whatever!
>  Once again the Drew-Meister is right. After 84' All the lifters are hyd.       on Jettas and Golfs.(Not sure about Scir's or Cabs) you can tell this
>  by the engine code and Bentley manual(also buy oil pump pressure but
>  that's another story)
>  Hizzah Hizzah Drew.
>  PLEASE ATTEMPT TO BE ACCURATE WHEN EXPLAINING THINGS< OTHERWISE YOU
>  SOUND LIKE A GENERAL MOTORS MECHANIC( Zing!!!! ).
> -Craig
is that last bit(in caps) meant for me? tell me what was unclear, and i
will try to do bbetter..thanx for telling us how to find out!
DREW
-- 
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
?????????????????????????????????-----whatever!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: Re: Need Mail Order #
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1992 17:09:18 GMT

In article <1992Nov20.094424@sicilia.enet.dec.com>, mark@sicilia.enet.dec.com (Mark P. Ouellette) writes:
>
>Does anybody have a phone number of a reputable
>VW mail order company?
>
>Specifically, I need a Bra for a 90 Corrado.
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>-Mark
>
>--
>
>***************************************************
>
>Mark P. Ouellette
>Applications Consultant
>ICAD
>201 Broadway
>7th Floor
>Cambridge, Massachusetts  02139-1901
>
>Email:  mark@icad.com
>Phone:	(617) 868-2800
>
>***************************************************


Try AUTOTECH

their new phone number is 714-240-4000


Ric Golen
From: hjack@well.sf.ca.us (Henry Jackson)
Subject: Re: Info on Bus Campers - Buying Used
Organization: Whole Earth 'Lectronic Link
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 23:46:10 GMT

In article <1992Nov16.213521.390@linus.mitre.org> jdouglas@MITRE.org (Jason Douglas) writes:
>In article <1992Nov13.165204.1@ulkyvx.louisville.edu> 
>pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu writes:
>> Don't buy a Wasserboxer Vanagon, they will self-destruct!  The 
>Wasserboxer is
>> not THE water-cooled Vanagon, it is A water-cooled Vanagon.  The ones 
>with
>> Rabbit motors will not blow head gasket and commit suicide, the 
>Wasserboxer
>> will.
>
>Rabbit motor equipped vanagon = diesel.  I've read about it, but as a 
>Vanagon driver I can't imagine doing with half the horsepower.  Will they 
>go up hill ?  Note -- earlier thread reported VW providing partial 
>assistance to Vanagon head(ache) gasket sufferers.
>
>


Allways wondered about a turbocharger on a diesel.  more power and better
gas milage.  Sounds pretty complicated/unreliable for not much gain.  A good
midrange cam and dual webbers instead of the fuel injection may go further
and faster on an older (pre emissions) bus.  BTW  to justify one's concience
about pre-emmissions hotrods:  a well tuned older perofmance engine usually
burns a lot cleaner than a "stock" early engine.  Webbers are beautiful.






            _____________
             -___________
               -_________
                 -_______
______            |______

HENRY JACKSON - ARCHITECT
___________________________________________________________________
                                                hjack@well.sf.ca.us
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rorem@bert.eecs.uic.edu (Doug Rorem)
Subject: Re: How to replace broken CV joint boot?
Organization: University of Illinois at Chicago
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1992 01:36:14 GMT

thk@tyres.asd.sgi.com (Tom Kong) writes:
.....
>out (or hammer out) the half-shaft.  Once the half-shafts are removed, 
>I need to remove the circlip on th inner CV joint, and the joint should
>then slide right out.  Once the joint is out, the old boot can be removed
>and a new one replaced.  

>It isn't at all obvious from the diagrams how I can replace the outer boot.
>I know I need to remove the two clamps holding the outer boot.  But does
>the outer boot slide through the entire length of the drive shaft, and come
>out on the inner side after the inner CV joint is completely removed?  Or do 
>I somehow also disassemble the outer joint and slide out the boot from the 
>front?

Tom,
  The outer CV joint comes off by pounding it off with a mallet (the
older Rabbits had a circlip on them that had to be removed first). I
guess the circlip on yours can be forced out of its groove with a
mallet tap.  Once it's off you slide the boot off its end of the
shaft just like the inner joint (albeit the other end). FYI
Bob Hoys of El Paso, TX sells German boot kits for ~$7.00 (I haven't
bought any for a while). Tel # 800-289-4697 or (915)-778-5341. You
do need a special tool to squeeze the clamps on for the new boots,
(the clamp is the same OEM type).

Doug Rorem
UIC   rorem@bert.eecs.uic.edu
From: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Urgent! Engine rpm goes up to 5000! HELP!
Date: 15 Nov 1992 18:40:48 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, jchen@acsu.buffalo.edu (Jonathan Chen) says:

>
>
>Hi, netters
>
>	I bought a 86 VW Golf Wolfburg edition with 69000 miles on it and
>	experience no problem until now.  It is a 5-spd stick.
>
>	I wonder if someone experience the following problem, or can offer
>	advices to me:
>
>Here is what happen:
>	I was merging to the I-290 with 4th gear on 4000rpm.  The other car
>wouldn't let me merge in.  So I stepped on the accelerator and then merged
>in and shift to 5th gear.  While I was shifting, the engine rpm ran to 5000.
>I thought I probably still stepped on the gas padel. So I didn't pay attention.
>later on, the traffic slowed down, so I brake a little with the brake. Once I
>released the brake (I didn't touch the accelerator yet), the car want to speed
>up again.  So I shifted to neutral.  Wow! 5000rpm as idle speed??? I couldn't 
>believe it!.  (it was snowing here in Buffalo and there was a lot of traffic,
>so I stopped it on the shoulder ... got it tow home)
>
>
>I think the problem is the accelator cable got stuck somewhere.  But I have no
>idea of checking it.  Can anyone tell me how?
>
>I consult the Haynes manual (sorry, I don't have the good one ).  They say 
>there will be a throttle switch, but I can't find one.  I really have no
>idea now.
>
>Can anyone give me some advices about what is or maybe going on with here?
>If it is possible, I will do the job myself because I am 
>in finacial trouble already.  Thanks alot!!
>
>-Jonathan
 
i too had a similar problem in my 81 rabbit, it was "sticking"..or seemed to 
be..so..i thought i'd lube it up..but it broke one night before i managed to
get it lubed....i dunno how to check it...but i think you may be on the right
track..i think i was charged something like 8 bucks for a new cable..if it
is not more than that, maybe you should just look for a new cable, and see
if that cures it.(you can take it back if it doesn't!)
DREW
-- 
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
?????????????????????????????????-----whatever!
From: zansari@bonnie.ics.uci.edu ((ZIA))
Subject: gti 16v's
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Organization: UC Irvine Department of ICS
Date: 19 Nov 92 23:01:34 GMT


	are there going to be any 16v's in '93 or are there only going
to be the 8v's and the new v6's?
From: cf947@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Chun-Hung Wan)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Golf VR6
Date: 22 Nov 1992 00:10:11 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: cf947@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Chun-Hung Wan)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


Can someone who has read reviews on the Golf VR6 please shed some light on
the car please? Including the performance and the comparison with the
Corrado VR6.  Thanks
-- 
A motion picture major at the Brooks Institute of Photography, CA
Santa Barbara and a foreign student from Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.

"The mind is the forerunner of all states."