HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: mjohnsto@jenny.shearson.com (Mike Johnston)
Subject: Bicycling Magazine (Was Re: mavic electronic derailleurs)
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech,rec.bicycles
Organization: Lehman Brothers
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 20:06:29 GMT

In article <-020992130414@microlab17.med.upenn.edu> news@netnews.upenn.edu (USENET News System) writes:
   There is mention of it in the October issue of Bicycling.
                                 ^^^^^^^

October? Is there an October issue already? I haven't seen September as yet although
it's all over the newstands. I'm a bit annoyed at the late delivery I get of this 
magazine. I'm tempted to cancel my subscription and buy it when it comes out instead.

MJ
--
Michael R. Johnston/System Administrator                mjohnsto@shearson.com  
  =-=-=  The official .signature of the 1992 Barcelona Olympics. =-=-=

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: ericr@dadd.ti.com (Eric Rullan)
Subject: Difference between Shimano RX100 and 105 components
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech
Reply-To: ericr@dadd.ti.com
Organization: Design Automation Division, Texas Instruments Inc
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 15:56:32 GMT

I've recently decided to buy an entry level racing bike and I've been somewhat
overwelmed  by the marketplace.  I'm looking to spend around $500-$700.  In 
this price range, the big difference seems to be in the components.  Almost
everyone seems to suggest paying the extra $$$ for the Shimano 105 components.
However, nobody has been able to tell me exactly what the difference is 
between the RX100 and the 105's.  

Can anyone explain the differences or can someone provide a number for 
Shimano so that I might try calling them directly??

Thanks!
---
Eric  ericr@dadd.ti.com
   TI pays absolutely no attention to me or my opinions; therefore,
   the foregoing posting cannot possibly represent TI's viewpoint.

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: kenl@origami.NoSubdomain.NoDomain (Ken Lehner)
Subject: Re: Hyperglide chain replacement: suggestions wanted
Organization: Bellcore
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 92 18:27:46 GMT

In article <MJOHNSTO.92Aug30201619@jenny.shearson.com>, mjohnsto@jenny.shearson.com (Mike Johnston) writes:
|> In article <16190407@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM> ericr@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Eric Rentschler) writes:
|> 
|>    Also, when using non HG chain with an HG cassette, you end up with less
|>    than HG quality shifting!
|> 
|>    I would recommend sticking with the HG chain.
|> 
|> I'll second this recommendation. I've followed the recommendation in the FAQ
|> regarding the Sedis ATB chain and was less than impressed with what I found
|> to be a cheaper quality chain IE poor shifts and noisy operation. I developed
|> a new-found appreciation for Shimano equipment when I put the HG chain back
|> on.
|> 
|> I think HG chains have gotten and undeserved bad reputation.
|> 

I'll vote the other way.  After (somehow) breaking one of the replacement
pins on my HG chain while inserting the pin, and sweating nervously over
the insertion of my last replacement pin, I got a Sedis ATB chain.  Works
fine.  I cleaned and adjusted everything 2 days ago, and it runs ands
shifts quietly.

Let's say you ride 4,000 miles per year, and you like to clean your chain
and derailleurs about every 400 miles.  (Of course, you don't clean it ON
the bike, do you?).  That's 10 new pins a year, or about the price of a
new chain.  Unless you don't believe Shimano and reuse the pins you
popped.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: rpimente@es.com (Richard Pimentel)
Subject: Re: *** CREAK FIX ***
Reply-To: rpimente@es.com (Richard Pimentel)
Organization: Evans & Sutherland Computer Corp., Salt Lake City, UT
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 92 16:11:19 GMT

In article <009600F3.11D31EE0@FHYDRA.FYSEL.UNIT.NO>, dahls@fhydra.dnet.unit.no (Joern Yngve Dahl-Stamnes) writes:
|> Thus spoke the keyboard of rpimente@es.com (Richard Pimentel):
|> >In article <jk6898.715410993@ehsn2.cen.uiuc.edu>, jk6898@ehsn2.cen.uiuc.edu (Joseph T Kavanagh) writes:
|> >|> shaft(very tightly mind you) and then used loc-tite on the bolt.
|> >					^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
|> >
|> >	Yikes! Have you tried to remove the crank bolt since you used
|> >	loc-tite? My experience with loc-tite is that stuff REALLY works
|> >	and the one can actually strip out threads or break off bolt heads
|> >	trying to loosen loc-tite'd bolts. I would not recommend this to
|> >	anyone unless they never plan to pack their bottom bracket bearings
|> >	again.
|> 
|> I've been using loc-tite the headset on my road bike. Some months ago I
|> needed to tight the headset a bit. Yes, loc-tite work. It was impossible
|> to move the headset. But a gas-burner fix that. I use one which almost
|> all skiers use and heated up the headset a bit (about 15 seconds with
|> full power from the gas-burner, could still hold my hand on the headset),
|> and I could adjust it again. When the headset cools down, the loc-tite
|> will begin to work again, but not as good as before.
|>

This was sent to me via email by Mark. It was in regards to my "Yikes"
posting above.

--Richard

To: rpimente@es.com
Subject: Re: *** CREAK FIX ***
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology
Cc: 
Status: R

    I would reccomend that you post a correction to your advice on lock-tite.
I do not yet have posting priv. so I can't.
There are MANY different Loc-Tite products for different purposes.  Some
is heat resistant, some solvent resistant, some bonds stronger than 
steel, some only slightly holds pieces together.  I think the Red and Blue
are the ones most often used in bike work.
They even have Mil-Spec Loc-Tite products for military use.
Later,
Mark
-- 
MARK IKEN
Georgia Institute of Technology, Atlanta Georgia, 30332
uucp:	  ...!{decvax,hplabs,ncar,purdue,rutgers}!gatech!prism!ph297mi
Internet: ph297mi@prism.gatech.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: josh@Happy-Man.com (Joshua_Putnam)
Subject: DuPont Teflon Drivetrain Lube?
Reply-To: Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com
Organization: Happy Man Corp., Vashon Island, WA 98070-7399
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 20:59:31 GMT

I know everyone likes to debate chain wax vs. oil vs.
foaming chain lubes, so here's a new twist on one of the
oldest threads:

I've been seeing quite a few ads lately for DuPont's
Teflon lube, but have not seen any serious reviews of its
performance, and the local shop does not carry it.  Has
anyone out there used it?

Ordinarily I would treat a hyped-up new lube with plenty
of suspicion, but DuPont is usually careful about how the
Teflon name gets used, so there might really be something
to it.  Does anyone know?
-- 
 Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com    Happy Man Corp.  206/463-9399 x102
 4410 SW Pt. Robinson Rd., Vashon Island, WA  98070-7399  fax x108
 We publish SOLID VALUE for the intelligent investor.  NextMail OK
Info free; sample $20: Send POSTAL addr: Solid-Value@happy-man.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: drela@athena.mit.edu (Mark Drela)
Subject: Re: Summ. of Frame Materials for Review
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 00:18:08 GMT

In article <1992Sep1.000237.21371@beaver.cs.washington.edu>, pardo@cs.washington.edu (David Keppel) writes:
|> >[Ongoing discussion of steel types vs. stiffness.]
|> 
!> Tubing diameter makes a big difference in stiffness.  Torsional
|> stiffness of a tube increases at something like the 4th power of the
|> diameter, so a frame tube 2% larger in diamter (nominally 0.6mm) is 8%
|> stiffer, 4% larger in diameter (nominally 1.2mm) is about 17% stiffer
|> in torsion.  I don't know the relationship for bending stiffness, but
|> it, too, is nonlinear (though not so dramatically).

The various scaling laws are:

stiffness   =  (wall thickness) x (diameter)^3      [in torsion and bending]

strength    =  (wall thickness) x (diameter)^2      [in torsion and bending]

weight      =  (wall thickness) x (diameter)



Ergo:

stiffness   =  (weight) x (diameter)^2

strength    =  (weight) x (diameter)


The strength scalings assume that the failure mode is material yield,
not local buckling.  Otherwise, we would all ride on frames with Coke-can tubes.


                   Mark Drela
             _______________________________
    o/LO  .' 
     O  .'  Gravity-Powered Technologies Lab 
      .'  MIT Aero-Astro Department  33-214
     '
From: petes@sheridan.ncd.com (Peter C. Simpson)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: GRIPSHIFTERS?????
Date: 31 Aug 92 17:42:59 GMT
Organization: Network Computing Devices, Mt. View, CA, USA

In article <1992Aug27.144006.24768@leland.Stanford.EDU>, blokhead@leland.Stanford.EDU (Darren Pakying Lum) writes:
|> I am looking to buy a Univega mountain bike with gripshifters 
|> today.  This is the first time I've ever seen or heard of the 
|> gripshifters.  I need more background on them and opinion on
|> how good they are or if they have any problems.  Please email
|> me....Thanks a lot!!
|> 
|> Darren

I have GripShifters on my Trek 6000, and I love them. Shifting is not
quite a smooth as with thumbshifters, and I highly recommend wearing
 riding gloves, since a sturdy grip on the shifter causes the
web of my thumb to press against the cable housing of the shifter.
The big advantages are being able to change gears without changing
hand position, and being able to stay in shifting position even on
very rough terrain.  

                              simPSon
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: MEDELMA@cms.cc.wayne.edu (Michael Edelman)
Subject: Re: Biopace Sprockets? (Was: Top 5 etc...)
Organization: Wayne State University, C&IT
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 12:11:19 GMT

I admit it; I was seduced into buying by Peugot Canyon Cruiser 6 years
back because it had the new and exciting Biopace rings. That's why I
chose it over a neat chromed Ross ;-)
 
When I went back to round rings year before last I was amazed at how
smoothly I could spin high speeds. Of course, the MTB I bought that year
had Rapid Fire shifters. Here we go again.
 
Last weekend I hobbled over to watch the last stage of the Tour d'Michigan
race in Birmingham, MI (Hobbled, as I have a broken toe. Ever try to put
on a bike shoe with a broken toe? Don't.) Getting back to the point...I
was very pleased to see that a large percentage of the Masters in that race
were riding old bikes with Nuevo Record and Super Record and *older*
gruppos. And you know, it didn't seem to slow them down much at all... ;-)
-----------------------------------------------------------------
 Michael Joseph Edelman           Wayne State University
 medelma@cms.cc.wayne.edu         Computing & Information Technology
 mje@pookie.pass.wayne.edu        Detroit, Michigan
 medelma@waynest1.bitnet          (313) 577-0742
 KE8YY
From: jwgst2+@pitt.edu (James W Gourgoutis)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Need help with tire repairs....
Summary: cut in sidewall
Date: 4 Sep 92 17:03:48 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Pittsburgh

Dear Rec.Bicycles.Tech:

			I recently crashed on my newly built MTB, and put a cut
into the sidewall of my brand-new tire.  The cut is just above the bead, and
was caused by the bike sliding on the rim, with the tire between the rim and
the pavement.  Does anyone have any ideas on how to fix the tire?  I think that
I remember reading somewhere that you can use Superglue to fix the cut.  I have
tried it, and I think that it might hold, but I want some other opinions.
Please advise!  Thanks!

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
James Gourgoutis       				   
Mechanical Engineering                                O   
University of Pittsburgh                           _ /__,     
e-mail me at:  JWGST2@unixd.cis.pitt.edu          (_) /(_) 
	       or JWGST2@vms.cis.pitt.edu
Thanks!                                     "A bonafide BIKAHOLIC, and DAMN
                                             proud of it!"    
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-       
Xref: sparky rec.bicycles.tech:201 rec.bicycles:22069
From: ttsai@athena.mit.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech,rec.bicycles
Subject: mavic electronic derailleurs
Date: 2 Sep 92 14:16:47 GMT
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology


does anyone know anything about the new mavic electronic rear derailleur
prototype that debuted in this year's tour de france?




terry tsai
mit '93
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: MEDELMA@cms.cc.wayne.edu (Michael Edelman)
Subject: Re: Building a Bike Frame (from scratch)
Organization: Wayne State University, C&IT
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 18:54:50 GMT

In article <1992Sep3.153507.22684@col.hp.com>
arnie@col.hp.com (Arnie Berger) writes:
 
>   I have a similar question. Has anyone built their own frame without
>   using jigs and fixtures. I've visited several people, both amateur
>   and pro framebuilders, and all have a basic fixture jig of some type
>   that they use to hold the tubing in alignment while they braze it
>   together. For me, constructing the fixturing necessary is the biggest
>   roadblock to building my own frame. I'd like to hear from anyone
>   who has done it without fixtures.
>
>                                                 Arnie
 
My pal Barry uses a homemade fixture for building lugless frames, but
he builds lugged frames without any special fixture other than a 3' length
of aluminum stock with a bolt in the end and a few clamps. That's it.
The length of aluminum is used to hold stays in position while brazing.
 
          --mike
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: pauls@icecreambar.css.itd.umich.edu (Paul Southworth)
Subject: Re: Building a Bike Frame (from scratch)
Reply-To: pauls@umich.edu
Organization: University of Michigan
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 16:21:27 GMT

Rick Radko writes
| In article <1992Sep1.214520.16212@hpcvusn.cv.hp.com>,
| craig@hpcvusn.cv.hp.com (Craig Durland) writes:
| > Rick Radko (dsphw@bcrka427.bnr.ca) wrote:
| > 
| > > I am curious though, what does a tube and lug set with all the braze
| > > on's for bottles etc.  cost?
| > 
| > Road bikes:
| > 
| > Tange CRMO tubeset:	$75
| > Tange Prestige tubeset:	$110
| > Columbus SL:		$120
| > Columbus SLX:		$160
| > Columbus TLX:		$210
| > Columbus EL:		$240
| > Columbus MAX:		$280
| > 
| > Lugs: $8 (Bocoma, Tange), $14 (Columbus), $50 (Tange investment cast)
| > Fork crowns:  $9 (Columbus), $21 (Cinelli, Tange)
| > Bottom brackets: $12 (Silva), $15 (Everest)
| > Dropouts: $13 (Columbus), $25 (Shimano)
| > Brake bridge: $5
| > Water bottle bosses: $.20
| > Cable guides: $.48


I recommend not using Prestige for a first frame.  You will find that it  
is a pain in the ass to cut and mitre.  Columbus is much easier and  
forgiving.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: zstern@adobe.com (Zalman Stern)
Subject: Re: re: Locking Devices
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 08:05:08 GMT

In article <a6ca2601@random.se> ianf@random.se (Armchair Nomad In Action)  
writes:
[Discusses rigging up a high voltage discharge device to your bike as a  
theft deterrent.]

No doubt there is a potential for an effective training motivation device  
here as well. Need to push yourself that last little bit? Install one of  
these one you bike and go like hell... An interesting question is would you  
be able to overcome the added weight of the battery and all.
--
Zalman Stern		   zalman@adobe.com		    (415) 962 3824
Adobe Systems, 1585 Charleston Rd., POB 7900, Mountain View, CA 94039-7900
  "Yeah. Ask 'em if they'll upgrade my shifters too." Bill Watterson
From: tims@cci632.cci.com (Tim Sullivan)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Difference between Shimano RX100 and 105 components
Date: 2 Sep 92 13:56:14 GMT
Reply-To: tims@cci.com (Tim Sullivan)
Organization: Computer Consoles, Inc.  Rochester, NY


When I was recently shopping around for components to build a new set of wheels,
I had several discussions with the owner of a local bike shop.  I was
considering 105 components (hubset, specifically) and he recomended RX100 as
he felt they were basically the same quality, without the fancy finish of the
105 stuff.  The problem was that for individual components, RX100 components
seem to be difficult to obtain, even though a lot of bikes can be purchased
with them.

I decided on a 105 freehub set, but when the set was not immediatly availible,
I was offered a Shimano 600 freehub set for a very reasonable price, which I
accepted.

I would not worry about the quality of the RX100 components, and I would not
worry that alot of other people like having the fancy parts or like to spend
more money.  If one is a wise shopper, they can find reasonable quality without
spending an inordinate amount of money.  Happy shopping.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tim Sullivan
tims@cci.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: praetzel@marconi.uwaterloo.ca (Eric Praetzel)
Subject: Re: Hyperglide Chains
Organization: University of Waterloo
Distribution: rec
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 16:27:15 GMT

In article <090192.715356584@otto> newman@otto.ycc.yale.edu (Andrew Newman) writes:
>Greetings,
>  Re HG70 chain
>When I put the chain back on, as someone else on the net mentioned,
>The outer plate through which I pushed the 'special' link bowed outward
>a bit.  Yes, I pushed the original pin back through against Shimano's
  Yes it will break.  The pin will pull out on one side and them rip free
entirely.  When it happened to me once we were doing hill sprints on a nice
round crit course for about 2 hours.  I was leaving and wondered what that
clicking noise was.  I looked down and the link had seperated on one side
and was just about to break.
  The fix is simple.  Just take out the one link pair that has the dammaged 
sideplate by pushing one of the normal pins out that is to one side or the
other.  Your chain will be 1" shorter but if its done right it will be ok.
When you push the normal pin back in make sure that the link flexes freely
and that the pin is centered.

>the stretching of the chain.  Wouldn't you hear this noise before it
>actually broke?
  Yes and no.  Chances are it will break when you are right on a power stroke
ie starting from a stop.  This means that you will have a chance to get
intimate with the top tube of your bike.  Its not fun.  But if you ride like
me it will take about 800 km for the link to break.

>I need some war stories and practical advice.  Hyperglide has introduced
>a new angst to my cycling that wasn't previously present.  Thanks....
  You want war stories.  Try winter riding.  In no time at all your freewheel
either does or is a fixed wheel.  Then you either have the chain coming off
the front ring (when you coast and it decides not to rotate) or the freewheel
slips on a power stroke.  Both put you full speed into the top tube.  I was
pretty used to it happening and ride my commuter like the junker it is.  For
a bike of that caliber the only tools you need are a hammer (for pushing) and
a pair of plyers for pushing from the other side when a hammer can't get in.
In extream cases you may find a large slot to be of some use.
  - Eric 

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: canderso@nyx.cs.du.edu (Chuck Anderson)
Subject: Re: I Can't See
Reply-To: canderso@nyx.UUCP (Chuck Anderson)
Organization: Nyx, Public Access Unix at U. of Denver Math/CS dept.
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 92 00:31:02 GMT

I just push the glasses toward the end of my nose and they get enough
ventilation to stop fogging.

--
  *************************************************************************
     Chuck Anderson                uucp    :         uunet!nyx!canderso
     Boulder, Co. (303) 494-6278   internet:         canderso@nyx.cs.du.edu
  *************************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: MEDELMA@cms.cc.wayne.edu (Michael Edelman)
Subject: Book on Frame Building found
Organization: Wayne State University, C&IT
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 12:36:53 GMT

I dropped in on Barry yesterday in his shop and he showed me the book
he learned from. It's in a big blue binder, and is a collection of
just about everything you'd want to know about frame building.
 
It's called:
               The Paterek Manual
           for Bicycle Framebuilding
                by Tim Paterek
 
and the adress given is:
 
         Kermesse Distributors, Inc
         464 Central Ave Unit #2
         Horsham, PA  19044
 
         1-313-672-0230
 
It's a neat book. Barry offered to loan it to me, and I think I'll borrow it
when I get a little more time.
 
           --mike
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: jsr@TorreyPinesCA.ncr.com (Joe Riel 3752)
Subject: Grease Holes in Hubcaps
Organization: NCR (Torrey Pines Development Center)
Disclaimer: This posting does not neccessarily reflect the opinions of NCR.
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 92 23:03:36 GMT

Why are there grease holes in the dustcaps for (some) hubs?  The
literature that came with the Campy Chorus hubs stated that these were
for injecting grease, however, I have never done so nor have heard of
anyone doing so.

Also, is there a good way to remove these dustcaps without bending
them?

Joe Riel
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: iba@kronos.arc.nasa.gov (Wayne Iba)
Subject: Freewheel Cluster Spacing
Organization: NASA/ARC Information Sciences Division
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 23:48:15 GMT


Well, I've seen this discussed before but I'm not sure I've seen
particular measurements.  (Also don't recall mention in FAQ.)

Previous discussions indicate (unless I have this wrong) that ultra-6 
spacing is equivalent to standard 5.  Now, my question has several
points.

 Are ultra-6 cogs thinner, or do ultra-6 clusters use thinner spacers,
 or both?

 Does each manufacturer have their own cluster body widths?  

 Suppose I want to limit myself to ultra-6 clusters but am not sure
 of which make and model I want to use; is there a _maximum_ width
 body that I should plan around if I want to maintain flexibility?

 Bonus question (the real question): what is that maximum width if
 it exists and is relevant?

Thanks,
--wayne (iba@ptolemy.arc.nasa.gov)


Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: hallstro@solan.unit.no (Lars Hallstr|m Eriksen)
Subject: Re: Mispostings
Organization: Norwegian Institue of Technology
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 92 12:31:27 GMT

In article <102510001@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM>, johnn@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (John Nicol) writes:
 > In rec.bicycles.tech, les@SAIL.Stanford.EDU (Les Earnest) writes:
 > 
 > > In any case, it is also clear that many people do not bother reading
 > > the charters of newsgroups they join and instead just read them a bit
 >       ^^^^^^^^
 > 	Am I missing something?  What's a "charter" and where do I find it?
 > 
 > It appears to me that the bicycles group split but I do not know what 
 > all the groups are.  As only an occasional reader how am I to keep up
 > on such things?

Rec.bicycles did split into subgroups this summer.  There is a weekly posting for
rec.bicycles.* on rec.bicycles.misc.  Mike Iglesias (iglesias@draco.acs.uci.edu)
writes:

>                                             ... In it, you will find
>information on how to get a copy of the FAQ (in case you missed it
>when it was posted to rec.bicycles.misc/news.answers) and some tips on
>nettiquette when posting articles to rec.bicycles.*. 
>
>Until I get the FAQ split up into FAQs appropriate for each rec.bicycles
>subgroup, it will be posted to rec.bicycles.misc.

--
Lars Hallstroem Eriksen                    | E-mail:     hallstro@solan.unit.no
Student of Mechanical Engineering          | Paper mail: Stud.post 44
Norwegian Institute of Technology (NTH),   |             N-7034 Trondheim-NTH
University of Trondheim (UNIT)             |             NORWAY