HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: wsun@jeeves.ucsd.edu (Fiberman)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: brakes
Date: 26 Jan 93 17:44:58 GMT
Organization: University of California, San Diego

I just had the front brakes of my '84 Celica done - new pads and
resurfaced rotor.  The car brakes fine at low speed.  However,
when I am on the highway at 55+ mph, the car vibrates when I
brake.  At 60 mph it vibrates at about 2-4 Hz.   Can anyone give
an explanation for this?

-fm
From: dmu5391@hertz.njit.edu (David M. Utidjian Esc stnt)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Fan belt falls off
Date: 21 Jan 93 16:16:07 GMT
Organization: New Jersey Institute of Technology, Newark, N.J.

In article <93Jan19.114356pst.11900@alpha.xerox.com> Michel_Denber.WBST147@xerox.com writes:
>
>	"Is the belt possibly coming off because the idler pulley doesn't have
>enough tension?"
>
>Hmm, never heard of a serpentine belt flying off before.  Assuming all the
>pulleys are aligned and not wobbling, it seems like it must just be too loose,
>Lautrec.  The tensioner should apply a fair amount of pressure to it, not just
>taking up slack.  How many miles do you have?  Maybe the belt stretched beyond
>the ability of the tensioner to compensate.
>
	In my experience the most common reason for a serpentine belt
to be "thrown" is improper alignment of pulleys.

	All of the pulleys MUST have their center groove (or some other
reference) lie in the same plane all of the time AND all of the axes of 
the pulleys MUST be normal (at right angles) to this plane.

	MAke sure you have correct tension on the belt... some idlers are
spring loaded to start the tension then the idler is locked in position.
Crank the engines a couple of times and recheck the tension.

	Also check the endplay on each of the pulleys.

>While we're at it, the serpentine belt on my 2.8L V-6 has started to show lots
>of little cracks between the grooves on the inside of the belt.  This is the
>first car I've had with one of these.  The outer surface looks fine - no
>fraying, glazing, or softening.  Does anyone have a number for how long
>serpentine belts typically last?  I've got 52K miles on this one.
>
	Typical replacement intervals are 30,40,50,60K miles....
Many service manuals recommend replacement as soon as there is noticeable
deterioration of the belt.  Small cracks on the innner groove surface of
the belt is noticeable deterioration... so replace it.

>			- Michel

David Utidjian
utidjian@remarque.berkeley.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sharen@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com (Sharen A. Rund)
Subject: Re: Jeep stuck, frozen puddle, how to free up?
Organization: Lockheed Missiles and Space Co.
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 93 16:50:06 GMT

In article <1993Jan27.205041.2495@macc.wisc.edu> pburke@vms.macc.wisc.edu (Peter Burke, MIC, 608-263-7744) writes:
>In article <1993Jan27.172554.4043@aio.jsc.nasa.gov>, spenser@fudd.jsc.nasa.gov (S. Spenser Aden) writes...
>> 
>>Yea, and if you do take pictures and can get them digitized and made into
>>GIFs, post 'em to alt.binaries.pictures.misc ... I think we'd ALL like to see
>>this (laughing WITH you, of course ... ;-)
>> 
>>-Spenser
>
>Time to resond to this thread:  The Jeep is freed up again, an axze and 
>some salt plus 35 degree weather did it for us.  One slight tug with my 
>truck (a REAL truck, Toyota ;-)) and the Jeep surface on solid ground.  
	 ^^^^^^       ^^^^^^^
	   \___________/ these words in the same sentence equal an oxymoron

>No pictures, since we did this in the dark after work.  I wnated to take 
>some video shots and make a Quicktime movie out of it, but the fun part 
>was already over (tearing his bumper in half the night before).  
>Thanks for all the advice - the Jeep is in the Power-Wash today ;-)
>
at any rate, I received this & it should have come here:

Received: by grinch.sim.es.com (4.1/SMI-4.1/e&s_server-2.0)
	id AA18063; Thu, 28 Jan 93 09:35:52 MST
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 93 09:35:52 MST
From: bmoss@sim.es.com (Brent "Woody" Moss)
Message-Id: <9301281635.AA18063@grinch.sim.es.com>
To: sharen@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com (Sharen A. Rund)
Subject: Re: Jeep stuck, frozen puddle, how to free up?
	
	
I was once stuck like that without the ice. I finally had to 
bite the bullet and get in the water and put chains on all 
four to help me out.
	
	
      good luck.
		      
		      
-- 
________________       __        ________________   "They that can give up
\_________      \     /_ \      /      _________/  essential liberty to 
 \_________      \_____/  \____/      _________/  obtain temporary safety
  \___________________      __________________/  deserve neither liberty 
                     /______\                   nor safety."  
ALL disclaimers apply ....                           --Benjamin Franklin
	  
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: garyc@eecs.nwu.edu (Gary I. Chang)
Subject: Replacing the Timing Belts after 60K miles??
Reply-To: garyc@eecs.nwu.edu
Organization: Northwestern University, Evanston, Illinois, USA
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 05:31:25 GMT

Hi,

	A friend hof mine has a Plymouth RS/Turbo (The same type of car as  
Eagle Talon Tsi and Mitsbishi Eclipse). He drove the car so hard that it  
reached its 60K line within 2.5 years. He was wondering whether he should  
go ahead and replace the timing belt as recommended in the operation  
manual, or wait as long as possible ?. He was so reluctant to do so  
because  the dealer warned him to prepare for a two days job to get that  
done. Consider the $54/hr cost of labor, that's going to be a Big charge.

	Is there any sign (any particular noise) before the belt reaches  
its termination? How much longer does a car like this could run well  
without replacing the belt? 

Thanks for your info..

--
+----------------+
| Gary I. Chang	 |
+----------------+   
Northwestern Univ.      E-Mail: garyc@eecs.nwu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jlaplant@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (John R Laplante)
Subject: Why is driving slow bad for the carb?
Organization: The Ohio State University
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 01:07:06 GMT


i've been having troubles getting my car to start lately
(1980 GM 5.7L, 8 cylinder, I think it's 4 barrel)..

A friend of mine reminded me that part of the problem is that
I never take it on the highway for an extended amount of time
(during the week, it goes maybe 5 miles one way in city traffic;
 on sundays it travles 1 mile on the interstate to church). He
also suggested that I drive it on the interstate for about an
hour. Something about burning out the carbon.

Whatt's the story about this? WHY exactly is driving only in
city traffic at slow speeds bad for a carb? And if I've got to
make a special effort to run it at high speeds, how often
(e.g. weekly? monthly?) and for how long (an hour? two? 20 minutes?)

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Steven J Orlin)
Subject: Re: Dweebs with air tools (was Re: brakes)
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 23:16:02 GMT


In article <1993Jan28.121059.21086@mic.ucla.edu> brims@bnkl01.astro.ucla.edu (G
eorge Brims) writes:


>all the way on. I hate those impact things anyway, I have no idea of any
>redeeming feature they might have, other than saving some grease-monkey
>a few seconds. I was brought up to put on wheelnuts with a torque wrench
>too!
>
>George Brims

Well, you've never had to take off GM's infamous tin coated acorn nuts
have you?   The only way I could have ever replaced those damn things
was by jamming on a smaller size impact socket and using the air wrench.
After a couple of times of taking those nuts off and on, they start to
round.

Trust me, impact wrenches are our friends, if we use them right.

steve
-- 
"Chicks with bricks come, chicks with blocks come, chicks with bricks and 
blocks and clocks come."
Orlin.2@osu.edu                   -Dr. Seuss
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: TLH@ECLX.PSU.EDU ()
Subject: Re: Jeep stuck, frozen puddle, how to free up?
Organization: Penn State Engineering Computer Lab
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 93 14:57:09 GMT
X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.24


I forgot to mention you better flush out the diffs. and refill
with fluid once your out. Trans and X-fer case if they were
under to.

Jeff
jag@kirkof.psu.edu
From: erc@Apple.COM (Ed Carp)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: paint touch-up
Date: 27 Jan 93 04:47:22 GMT
Organization: Bleeding Edge Technologies - 'Sliding Down The Razor Blade Of Life...'

In article <milo-250193194243@mielo.dorm.rutgers.edu> milo@dorm.rutgers.edu (Jim  mielo) writes:
>
>    I have a small chip on my car and was wondering if it's better to get
>it fixed at a shop or do it myself.
>
>    If I do it myself is there anything I should look out for or any
>special techniques?

Doing it yourself is usually much cheaper.  It's not difficult, but make sure
you get the right color!  ;)

Working in small increments and going slow and being careful are what works
for me.  Good luck!
-- 
Ed Carp, N7EKG                    erc@apple.com                   801/538-0177

"It is your resistance to 'what is' that causes your suffering."     -- Buddha
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mfolivo@sactoh0.sac.ca.us (Mark Newton-John)
Subject: Re: BMW leaks !!
Organization: Sacramento Public Access Unix
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 93 08:52:26 GMT


It is possible that the leaks are coming from the windshield. I
have a 1974 Corolla SR-5 that has leaked in the same location, and
I have discovered that it leaked from the lower corner of the
windshield.

You might try getting some silicone windshield sealant, and
apply a small bead to the outside of the windshield.


-- 
mfolivo@sactoh0.SAC.CA.US   SAC-UNIX (916) 649-0161
The Good Guys!		We know our stuff
Audi			The Alternate Route
Atari			Power without the Price
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hongbin@leland.Stanford.EDU (Hongbin Isaac Liu)
Subject: Re: Replacing the Timing Belts after 60K miles??
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 93 07:29:43 GMT

In article <1993Jan27.021118.13378@spdc.ti.com> orr@epcot.spdc.ti.com (Ken Orr) writes:
>In article <1993Jan26.074048.23365@news.unomaha.edu> mgolden@cwis.unomaha.edu (Brian Golden) writes:
>>> 	A friend hof mine has a Plymouth RS/Turbo (The same type of car as  
>>> Eagle Talon Tsi and Mitsbishi Eclipse). He drove the car so hard that it  
>>> reached its 60K line within 2.5 years. He was wondering whether he should  
>>> go ahead and replace the timing belt as recommended in the operation  
>>> manual, or wait as long as possible ?. He was so reluctant to do so  
>>> because  the dealer warned him to prepare for a two days job to get that  
>>> done. Consider the $54/hr cost of labor, that's going to be a Big charge.
>>
>>When (or if) it goes bad, replace it then.  It is a BIG chore, especially on
>>front (or all)  wheel drive cars like this.  Most belts will live WELL beyond
>>the 100k mark.  Mostly the belt fails because of the rubber decaying, not
>>because of excessive miles.  If he is really worried about becoming stranded
>>some day, then have him change it.  Otherwise, keep your money.
>>
>>Mike Golden - mgolden@cwis.unomaha.edu
>>
>
>     The above is a terrible idea :-( When or if the timing belts breaks on
> the Diamond stars it can do terrible things to the engine, bent valves,
> damaged pistons etc. There has been alot of talk latley on the talon list 
> about this and it seems quite a few people have had timing belt related
> problems with thier cars. You can pay now or possibly pay a *WHOLE LOT $$*
> later. I'd change it as required in the owners manual and I check mine fairly
> regular (at each oil change). It may be cheaper to have an independant shop 
> do it rather than a dealer.  
>  
>
>     "86 Ninja 600R"                               K.O.
>  "DOD #306 AMA #615088"                       T.I. Dallas Tx.
>    "Eclipse GS Turbo"                      Orr@epcot.spdc.ti.com




How do you CHECK your timing belt at each oil change?
Just like to find out. Thanks, Isaac
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Cutlass Problems
Keywords: surging, need help
Date: 25 Jan 93 20:44:35 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL


 This surging may be due to the primary mixture being excessively lean.
This will require more throttle/lower vacuum for a given amount of load.
When your vacuum drops to around 6" (+/-, depending) the power valve
opens and richens things up. This hypothesis may be checked with a
vacuum gauge, and by trying some other things. If the surging goes away
when you floor the pedal, and the acceleration picks up more smoothly,
this hypothesis remains likely - now you're past the power valve crack
point completely.

 There can be a couple of possible culprits causing lean conditions -
on an early '80s smogtopus, make that a couple dozen. Vacuum leaks, 
crud in the jets, fuel system obstructions, EGR valve shot, what have you.
Typically a vacuum leak will become less noticeable as RPM increases or 
as manifold vacuum goes down. One other possibility is a vacuum advance
that is sticking, causing the spark timing to remain far advanced when
it ought to drop back in response to reduced manifold vacuum. This will
be noticeable as knocking in addition to responding favorably to mixture
enrichment. This can be checked manually if you can see the actuator rod.
Apply manifold vacuum to the advance line and then release it. It should
move freely. 

-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rll@frieda.mitre.org (Roberto L. Landrau)
Subject: Re: CRX Lost MPG oxy gas
Organization: Research Computer Facility, MITRE Corporation, Bedford, MA
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 12:51:01 GMT

In rec.autos.tech Matt Rein #3 <mrein3@cfsmo.honeywell.com> wrote:
>My Tempo mileage fell from 30 MPG to 22 with the winter/oxygenated
>gasoline...

How can you tell if the gasoline is ``oxygenated''? There is a sticker
at the pumps where I buy gas that reads ``May contain MTBE''.  Is this
the same thing as ``oxygenated fuel''?
--
The opinions stated above are not necessarily my employer's.
----------------------------------------------------------------
Roberto L. Landrau    KC1YP    landrau@mitre.org  rll@linus.mitre.org
The MITRE Corporation  Bedford, MA 01730          rll@linus.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hsong@ardour.bellcore.com (G. Hugh Song)
Subject: Screeching noise from front axle or wheel.
Organization: Bellcore
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 93 05:24:30 GMT

My car screeches when cornering.   The noise lasts about 1 pr 2 seconds.
But it does not always do so whenever I do cornering.
I figured out two reasons.

1.  Front disk brake rubbing as the rust gets into the somewhere.
2.  Bad ball joints.

Sometimes I saw other cars make strange noise even when stopped
with the engine still on.   That noise is not a screeching sound.
But when my car does that right after I start the engine, the screeching
sound comes as soon as I pull the car forward.   So I think it is 
related.   [It is hard to describe sounds by words, BTW.]

Can anybody diagnose the problem?

Thanks a lot.  Please email.

	Hugh
PS:  my car is '86 mazda 323. manual.  No power steering.  Front drive
From: dick@hpscit.sc.hp.com (Dick Lucas)
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 18:13:16 GMT
Subject: Re: Oil Coolant Engines?
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Clara, CA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

In rec.autos.tech, BARANSKI@veamf1.nusc.navy.mil (Jim Baranski) writes:

> Is the VW engine more accurately called an *AIR* cooled engine, or a *OIL*
> cooled engine?

> I don't know whether more BTUs are cooled by air normally, or by the oil, but
> based on the oil cooler in more VW engines, I'd hazard a guess that they are
> actually *OIL* cooled.

> With a big enough cooler/radiator and collant flow, couldn't you use anything 
> (including standard oil) for the coolant?  I assume that the coolant flow
> through the engine would have to be at least halfway intelligent so that it
> cooled all of the hot spots...

> Jim Baranski
***************************
In the final analysis, all cars are AIR cooled.  Even water pumpers have 
radiators which cool the water-antifreeze mix.

The distinction is usually made by where the majority of the heat is 
dissipated.  VWs have an oil cooler which is in the cooling fan shroud, to be
sure, but the cylinders are cooled by direct transfer to the air being blown
over them.  Since the majority of the heat is generated in the combustion
area of the engine (cylinders and heads) and they are cooled by air flow,
I think it's safe to call the air-cooled VWs (horizontally opposed 4 cyl)
AIR-COOLED.

As far as using oil for both cooling and lubrication, I suppose it could be
done.  Water has some unique advantages.  It's cheap, readily available, & has
low viscosity (pumps easily and allows better heat transfer because the flow
can be turbulent.)  Water also has high heat capacity, and if the engine
really overheats, you can dissipate tremendous amounts of heat by boiling.
Oil, on the other hand is expensive, viscous, and not that
available (try topping off your oil from the stream by the side of the road)

Dick Lucas


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ravalent@mothra.syr.EDU (Bob Valentine)
Subject: Re: auto trans questions
Organization: Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 93 13:30:56 EST

In article <C183D1.HK5@avalon.nwc.navy.mil> erik@peewee.nwc.navy.mil (Erik van Bronkhorst       Code 3814                               Phone 939-1421) writes:
>What's the difference between th350, th400, and powerglide?

   The 350 and 400 are 3 speed, non-OD, and the PG is a two-speed

>Which is strongest, specifically, for racing?  Why bother making
>any others (than the strongest)? 
  
   That's sort of a trick question.  A TH400 can be built to handle
more power (torque) than a TH350 more easily.  The internal guts of a
TH350 weigh less than those of a TH400, so they are often prefered in
some types of racing.  A PG can be beefed too, usually the first mod
being changing the input shaft to a custom one that allows the use of
TH350/400 converters, and increases strength.  All these trannys can
be built to take the power, but it is a question of which will yield
the best performance/reliability for the money.

>What about the new 4 speeds and ones with OD with clutch lockups?  

    Just like the all the other trannies, they too can be built to
take large amounts of power.  Usually, however, in high-power apps,
the lockup converter is changed to a non-lockup.  The effective size
of the lockup clutch in the converter is not much more than the one on
the front of your A/C compresser.

>Are these reliable enough for 400-600 ft lbs under race conditions?  
>Not necessarily drag race, but still abusive circle track conditions.

    Most of the circle track cars I've seen (weekend-warrior type
stuff) use either Muncie 4 speeds, Doug-Nash 5 speeds, TH350's, or
PG's.
    
>Thanks
>
>-- 
>Erik van Bronkhorst KC6UUT DoD#4342585443 AMA#[classified]
>"Truth is false and logic lost, now the fourth dimension is crossed..."
________________________________________________________________________
\ The name:            -->   Bob Valentine  <--                        /
/ The address:      --> ravalent@mailbox.syr.edu <--                   \ 
| The ride: --> 71 Olds Cutlass Convertible: 350/T400/Posi <--         |
\______________________________________________________________________/    



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: csmith@plains.NoDak.edu (Carl Smith)
Subject: Re: WHAT IS AN A-I-R PUMP ON A CHEVY CAPRICE ENGINE?
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 01:47:08 GMT
Organization: North Dakota Higher Education Computing Network

In article <1993Jan23.192801.25210@newstand.syr.edu> ravalent@mothra.syr.EDU (Bob Valentine) writes:
>In article <1993Jan22.170947.21129@colorado.edu> bowmanj@csn.org (Jerry Bowman) writes:
>[previous stuff about AIR pump removal deleted]
>>
>>       The only reason not to remove it is that it  ay be illegal in
>>    your area, After all it is just an air pump pushing air into your
>>    exhaust manifolds. If you only take the belt off exhaust can flow
>>    back into the pump andbuild up carbon deposits. Then when you want
>>    to reconnect it for an emmissions test it will not turn. 
>
>     Sorry, almost _ALL_ AIR systems have a built in check-valve, the
>main purpose of which is to prevent damage to the pump and components
>in the case of a backfire.   

But don't rely on the check valve to do it's job.  Like I already
posted once, I pulled the belt of my air pump.  People told me it would
seize, so once every couple months I would put the belt back on, fire
up the engine, and squirt a small bit of oil in behind the pulley where
it sucks the air in, then take the belt back off.  But I forgot about
it and soon had a seized pump.  When I pulled the back off the pump,
it was full of the same carbon that coats the inside of my tailpipe
because my engine is out of tune.  I cleaned the carbon out of the
pump and got it working again.  It turns out that my check valve
was shot, and the exaust was blowing back into the pump.  It also
melted the plastic diverter valve so that it is seized in one
position, which I haven't got around to replacing yet.

>If I disconnect it, I remove the outlet
>hose and give a liberal squirt of oil into it, then spin it.   AIR
>pumps do like to sieze if they are disconnected and left....

Doing this once when you disconnect it probably isn't good enough.
You should probably squirt a little oil in and spin it periodically.

-- 
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Carl D. Smith                                       Inhale to the chief!
csmith@plains.nodak.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: garyself@grok90.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM (Gary Self)
Subject: Problems with Acclaim
Organization: NCR Corp., Columbia SC
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 93 16:38:42 GMT

I was wondering if anyone else was having problems with any of the sensors
on their Plymouth Acclaim or Dodge Spirit.

I have a 1990 Plymouth Acclaim that has been the shop numerous times
for rough idling/poor gas mileage problems. Each time some type of sensor
is replaced and appears to fix the problem for a short while.

They are:

Odometer	Part Replaced

23885		Oxygen Sensor
24263		EGR Valve
30230		Oxygen Sensor & EGR Valve
34699		Oxygen Sensor & Vehicle Speed Sensor
38185		Oxygen Sensor **
40890		EGR Valve

**NOTE: They claimed that the reason that the sensor was bad this time
        was that there was an oil leak that shorted it out.

I had written to the Customer Satisfaction department in Atlanta. They
said it should have been sent to Charlotte, but would forward it to them.
That was the last I heard.

I know of two people that have similar cars but have not had any trouble.
Has anyone out there experienced any problems with Oxygen Sensor failures?
Does anyone have any suggestions?