HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Timing Belt on Civic Si.
From: dwsmall@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu (Derek 'Enzo' Small)
Date: 17 Dec 92 15:25:43 -0500
Organization: Miami University Academic Computer Service"

> Does anyone know how much damage will be inflicted if the timing belt breaks
> on an 87 Honda Civic Si while the car is running at speed (55mph)?  I know
> that some cars will have severe damage (Porsche 944's) but others will not.

My parents own an 87 Accord LXi and according to Honda this motor will not 
spin without hitting the valves if the belt breaks.  I know first hand
that several of Honda's older engines had sufficient valve-piston clearance
to spinn freely.  I think the 87 Accord LXi and the Civic Si used the same
engine so if you are nearing 55,000 I'd get it replaced.  

-- 
*******************************************************************************
* Derek "Enzo" Small                   [san.dwsmall]@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu    *
*                                      Miami University, Oxford, Ohio 45056   *
*******************************************************************************
*                                                                             *
*   Long live Enzo Ferrari  !!!!!!!!                                          *
*                                                                             *
*   May his lagacy nor his cars ever collect dust.                            *
*                                                                             *
*******************************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: wesf@boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii)
Subject: Re: Extending engine life--Block heaters (was Re: Oil Priming System)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 15:53:16 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

Patrick Taylor (exuptr@exu.ericsson.se) wrote:

: I'm always afraid one of these will malfunction and set fire to the oil on 
: my block.

The ones that heat up the oil through the dipstick don't seem to be 
starting too many fires but also don't generate enough heat in order 
to heat up a cold engine, either.  Those are supposed to be installed
when the engine is warm and they keep the engine kind-of warm.

The water types that either hook into the heater hoses or radiator
hoses do generate enough heat to heat up a cold engine, plus most
have temperature sensors on them so they won't catch fire.  I've
used both tank type (that hooks into the heater hose) and radiator
hose type and had good luck with both.  I had a relay system built
up so a cheap timer would throw a circuit for the heaters three
hours before I needed the car.  Worked great!

Presently I have a heated garage so I don't have to mess with them 
any more but I would not hesitate to do it again if I were outside.  
Brrrrrrrrr...

Wes Fujii
________________________________________________________________
      ___   ___ ___ 
     /  /  /  //  /
    /  /__/  //  /    A real motor is an Oldsmobile Rocket 455
   /  HURST //  /    "This is NOT the new generation of Olds"
  /  /  /  //  /_________
 /__/  /__//  //  _____  \
          /  //  /    /  /      Wes "BANZAI" Fujii
         /  //  /OLDS/  /          Boise, Idaho
        /  //  /____/  /      wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com
       /__/ \_________/ 

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz)
Subject: Re: Cummins
Organization: Naval Ocean Systems Center, San Diego
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1992 21:35:34 GMT

In article <BzHE6w.Enw@cup.hp.com> dhepner@cup.hp.com (Dan Hepner) writes:
>From: koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz)

>>(all *real* Diesels are turbocharged)

>Hmm.  Maybe you mean "are turbo or supercharged".

>The "318 Jimmy diesel", aka a "8V71 Detroit Diesel" (from GM, 8 'V' organized
>cylinders, 71 cu in each, 318 horsepower) is not turbocharged, it is however 
>supercharged.  One can add a turbocharger and get a "350 Jimmy diesel".
>The 318 should be considered a real diesel.

>Dan Hepner

hmmmm, my contention that real Diesels are turbocharged is based on the fact
that the supercharger on the GMC/Detroit-Diesels is there *only* for cylinder
scavenging, rather than responding to increased output-demand or altitude as is
the case with the elegantly simple turbocharger.  The GMCs *do* require a
turbocharger to realize their full potential, as does any Diesel.

Ack, a non-turbocharged D-8?!?  Must be a virtual antique; all that I have seen
are turbocharged Cat (who else, actually) sixes, most with *nasty* *LOUD*
pony-motors...

I, too, am curious about locomotive Diesels, and *L*A*R*G*E* marine engines as
well...  (a *small* marine engine, a variant of the Cummins B5.9 family,
delivers 320hp@2500rpm... and, yes, it is still 359cid).

Walt K.
From: jskean@unlinfo.unl.edu (jonathan skean)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: HP-Torque of chevy V-6?
Date: 18 Dec 1992 06:33:23 GMT
Organization: University of Nebraska--Lincoln	
Distribution: all
NNTP-Posting-Host: unlinfo.unl.edu

>> . . .  359cid of Cummins produces 400lb-ft of
>> torque at 1700rpm, pulls 11,400lbs of trailer *and* delivers 20mpg.

    I'll give you "pulls trailer" *OR* "20mpg".  "And"?  Very doubtful.

>	Aren't diesel engines more durable than gas engines?   

    The Cummins/Dodge is great if you can afford it.  CNN "Road Test
Magazine" says the drivetrain (with auto trans) should outlast the rest
of the truck by several times.  As to ALL diesels, never forget the
truly horrible GM 5.7 liter diesel conversion of the Olds gas 350 V8.
Diesels designed for commercial trucks, such as the Cummins, are
supremely durable but expensive.  If you use one in commercial service
they are a bargain.  If you use one as a passenger-car substitute you're
wasting a lot of money.  Very few buyers of new gasoline trucks will
ever actually wear out their engines - the exception being people who
really do haul heavy loads all the time or pull trailers all the time.
My guess is that something approaching 90% of pickups have empty beds
90% of the time and they usually get traded because the original owner
thinks it's ugly or something long before the engine gets very worn.
--
Jonathan Skean                     usenet: JSKEAN@UNL.EDU
502 Hamilton Hall                  bitnet: JSKEAN%UNL.EDU@UNLVAX1
University of Nebraska              voice: (402)472-2684
Lincoln, NE 68588-0304   USA          fax: (402)472-9402
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: gvahe@cs.ulowell.edu (Gerry Vahe)
Subject: Wanted!! Buick Regal Headlight Peice
Organization: University of Massachusetts at Lowell Computer Science
Distribution: rec.autos,misc.wanted,ne.wanted
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 04:22:36 GMT

I went searching through 4 Junkyards today to try to find the plastic peice that goes around the headlight of an 81 buick regal. (81-85 the same) Its the drivers side-----If anyone out there has one----pLLLEEEAASSEE let me know!!
(that they want to sell of course!!)
thanks a lot
-gerry

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: csk@wdl50.wdl.loral.com (Chuck Kuczaj)
Subject: How do you remove frozen, stripped screws?
Organization: Loral Western Development Labs
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 16:33:08 GMT

I've tried penetrating oil, heat, hammers, and other things, but the
basic problem is still the fact that one can't exert enough force on
a stripped screw.  Is there any kind of special tool, which when
"clamped-on" to the exposed screw head, allows for the exertion of much
greater torque?  Obviously, I've tried using the "vice-grip method".
What I'm looking for is a more optimal solution.
From: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: ECM CHIPS
Date: 14 Dec 92 13:11:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Ye Olde Bailey BBS - Houston, TX - 713-520-1569
Reply-To: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 


ST>>>Seriously, Dave. Delco Remy does indeed build things like batteries,
  >>>alternators, and the such. Engine control computers and the such are built
  >>>by Delco Electronics, in places like Kokomo, Indiana, and Milwakee, Wisc.
  >>>Chips (like CPU's, custom ASIC's, etc) are built either locally in Kokomo
  >>>or in cooperation with outside vendors.

ST>>>Hope this clears it up.

ST>>>Spiros
  >>>--
  >>>Spiros Triantafyllopoulos                    c23st@kocrsv01.delcoelect.com
  >>>Software Technology, Delco Electronics       (317) 451-0815
  >>>GM Hughes Electronics, Kokomo, IN 46904      [A Different Kind of Disclaim
..
Hi,
        I've seen your sig a couple of times now and maybe you can lead
        me in the right direction....

        I need a prom for 81 Monte Carlo,4810 series ecm. All the local
        GM dealers here in Houston say that the prom is no longer made
        as of 6/92. And yes the current prom in the computer is wrong. i
        can post ID's Tuesday if needed...
..
        If you need more info let me know via this echo....I check it
        daily so I don't think I'll miss the reply..
                                                        Don


 * SLMR 2.1a * I put spot remover on my dog....Spots gone!
                      
----
Ye Olde Bailey BBS
Houston,Texas
Node 1: 1 713 520 1569
yob.sccsi.com
Organization: Junior, Math/Computer Science, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 15:43:30 -0500 
From: Stefan E Sherwood <ssa7+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: Tranny whine--normal?

I wrote:
>I just had the transmission on my 1984 Dodge Colt Turbo rebuilt.  Since
>(and not before) the rebuild, the transmission seems to whine quite a
>bit (loudly and often).  The place that did the rebuild says "don't
>worry, it's supposed to do that.  It'll do that for at least 1000 miles,
>then it'll die down."  Unfortunately, I am unlikely to reach 1000 miles
>before the warranty on the rebuild expires.  Is it really normal, when
>can I expect it to go away, is there anything I can do to quiet it down,
>and why does it do this?

kenny@osf.org (Kenneth Crudup) writes:
>Automatic or manual??
>
>It's too funny how the simplest data gets consistently left out on this group.
>
>	-Kenny


Sorry about leaving out that crucial bit of information.  The
transmission on my Colt is a 4 (actually 8) speed twin stick
(power/econ) manual.

Stefan
From: spe2mje@thor.cf.ac.uk (Michael Evans)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: HORRIBLE STALLS (!) in Pontiac Sunbird!
Date: 15 Dec 92 15:49:56 GMT
Organization: University of Wales College at Cardiff
X-Mailer: Cardiff Computing Maths PP Mail Open News Gateway

In article <exuptr.376.724115691@exu.ericsson.se> exuptr@exu.ericsson.se (Patrick Taylor) writes:
|In article <1992Dec10.223952.61925@cc.usu.edu> slhmz@cc.usu.edu writes:
|>I am having serious difficulties with my car.
|>It's a '87 Pontiac Sunbird 2.0L FI OHC SE 'vert.
|>The car only has 30,000 miles on it.
|
|>        And then after you get going in first gear, you have to
|>        put the clutch in, rev up the engine high, put it into second,
|>        and let the clutch out again really slowly.  The car will
|>        almost stall, but will get back up to normal.
|
|>        Now, if I pull over and stop, put it in neutral and let it
|>        idle, it sound fine.  Just the oil pressure guage is a little
|>        lower than normal.  But, if I goose on the gas, the car will
|>        stall and you cannot re-start the car without starting fluid.
|>	
|>        Also, the above mentioned effect happens maybe 1/3 of the time.
|>        The other 2/3 of the time the car runs great, but doesn't have
|>        as much power as it used to.
|
|>        The alternator, battery, and fuel-filter, and spark-plugs
|>        all check out OK.
|
|>        I think it is the fuel pump or maybe a clogged fuel line.
|>        Or is it my Injector?  Or maybe solinoid in injection system?
|
|>        HELP ME!
|
|>        What is wrong?  I can't find out!
|
|
|>--
|>Faith Gibson
|
|Float level too high?
|
|Vacuum leak?
|
| ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
|                    !!! H A P P Y   H O L I D A Y S !!!
|
|  - Patrick Taylor, Ericsson Network Systems
|    exuptr@exu.ericsson.se                    "Don't let the .se fool you"
|    exuptr@ZGNews.Lonestar.Org  <SLOW!>


If the air-filter is blocked, you will get flooding, Fast Idling, Bad gas mileage etc,.
Check the fuel pump too, and if it is a high mileage car, check the 
injectors.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: eric0139@student.tc.umn.edu (Grant Erickson)
Subject: Re: Do SPOILERS Really Work???
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
Organization: University of Minnesota
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 05:41:58 GMT

In article <8f=DY=i00VpFAbylRa@andrew.cmu.edu>, Stefan E Sherwood
<ssa7+@andrew.cmu.edu> wrote:

> WILL get worse mpg than those without.  You don't get something
> (downward force) for nothing (no increase in wind resistance).  Of
> course, people who buy serious sports cars like that are probably not
> looking for optimum gas mileage or else they'd have bought a boring
> rice-burning econo-box with no spoilers and get 50 mpg.
> 
> Stefan

I realize it wasn't a real big dig, but not ALL economy cars are boring. My
Sentra SE-R is a hell of a fun car to drive. Granted it is no Vette, 300ZX,
or Porsche 9xx, but it is fairly quick, corners great, solid, and tight.
And if it gets great gas mileage...hey, what an added bonus.

PS: If I could have afforded one of the afforementioned sports cars, I
would have bought one.

.___________________________________________________________________________.
| Grant Erickson                                                           
|
|   eric0139@student.tc.umn.edu     University of Minnesota / Twin Cities  
|
|   granteri@pnet51.orb.mn.org      People's Network 51 / Minneapolis      
|
|---------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Please obeserve the 55 MPH speed limit, the drivers passing you could use
|
| the laugh.                                                               
|
'---------------------------------------------------------------------------'
From: justin@fennel.cc.uwa.oz.au
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Jaguar XJ-12 is a Dog? specs?
Date: 19 Dec 92 15:01:18 +0800
Organization: University of Western Australia
NNTP-Posting-Host: fennel.wt.uwa.edu.au

>>>>As I recall ... the XJ-12.
>>> 
>>> A dog?  That engine produces more hp and torque than a '84-'9? Corvette!
> 
>>Hmmmmmmmmmm. But what about the pre-84 Corvettes eh??? ;()
> 
> Well, it produces more Hp and torque than any Corvette after the last
> big-block up until the ZR-1.  The car was unreliable, but that wasn't
> he motor's fault.
> -- 

Just as a matter of intrest has anyone got the actuall specs for
output of a XJ-12.....in BHP please.
Justin...

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kenny@osf.org (Kenneth Crudup)
Subject: Re: Light and LOUD... I want aftermarket horns
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 22:36:15 GMT

In article <27244@sybase.sybase.com>
joe@bulldog.sybase.com (Joseph Weinstein) writes:

>The horn on my Mustang is way too anemic. I rate horns into three categories:

>3 - Assault.	Unconsious reaction:	"JESUS!! DON'T HIT ME!! I'M SORRY!!!!"
>					(Gobs of immediate irrational guilt)
>		Consious reaction:	Doesn't matter.
>		Physical reaction:	Immed. reversal of any act-in-progress

"Immediate reversal". Amen to that. I was seriously thinking of the same
thing for my Merkur (Fords must have shitty horns by default) for all the
dipshit pedestrians here who barge out into the streets without looking.
Dumb f*ckers oughta be glad there's laws making it a crime to run folks over
no matter how stupid they are- any time you blow a horn at someone about
to walk in front of your moving vehicle, and they suddenly wake out of their
stupor and jump back like they've been electrocuted, you've got a prime
candidate for Automotive Darwinism. 

"Immediate reversal". Hrmph- I want it loud enough for "immediate cardiac
arrest."

	-Kenny

-- 
Kenny Crudup, Contractor, OSF DCE QA
OSF, 11 Cambridge Center, Cambridge, MA 02142	+1 617 621 7306
kenny@osf.osf.org			OSF has nothing to do with this post.
	  Religion: The longest-running gag ever played on Mankind.
From: exuptr@exu.ericsson.se (Patrick Taylor)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Please Identify this Car!! Help me, to!
Date: 11 Dec 92 23:26:56 GMT
Organization: Ericsson Network Systems, Inc.
X-Disclaimer: This article was posted by a user at Ericsson.
              Any opinions expressed are strictly those of the
              user and not necessarily those of Ericsson.

In article <1992Dec11.113725.61942@cc.usu.edu> slhmz@cc.usu.edu writes:


>Ok all you car dudes!  Help a gal out!

>My car is a Pontiac Sunbird Convertable.

I have a Sunbird myself, small world.  But it's a '76.

>Now, looking at my car:
>                                 3
>Cu. In. : ( OHC ) I don't know in
>Liters  : 2.0 L  (says this on the engine)

I always remember 5.0L = 305 ci.  You are looking at 0.4 * 305 ci or
about 122 ci.

>Cyl     : 4
>Fuel sys: Fuel Injection, only it isn't multi-port, it is Throttle body!

Hmm...  Maybe the MFI is an option.  Might go for the Turbo, also.

>So, why does my car differ then what the book says it should be?
>By the way, my vert is not a turbo.

Could be a misprint.  Can you look at the Chilton to find out what your
VIN is supposed to be?

>Also, Last summer, I got the AC re-charged.  It worked for about a week,
>then stopped working.  I had moved, so I didn't take it back.

>Anyways, I was looking at the big metal case that has a little metal pipe
>that goes into the ratiator, then out of it, then to a smaller little metal
>case, then into the compresor?  I think that is what it is, becase it is hooked
>into the engine belts.

If I'm following you right that's the dryer for your AC.  Look carefully and
you'll probably see that it goes to a smaller radiator for your AC and not 
the main radiator.

>Anyways, the smaller little metal case is cracked competely in half.  You can
>pull it apart.

>With this being like that, would it have any effect on engine preformance?

That's probably why your AC doesn't work.  They may have overcharged your 
system.

>Faith Gibson

Do you have sisters named Hope and Charity ?  ;-)
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
                    !!! H A P P Y   H O L I D A Y S !!!

  - Patrick Taylor, Ericsson Network Systems
    exuptr@exu.ericsson.se                    "Don't let the .se fool you"
    exuptr@ZGNews.Lonestar.Org  <SLOW!>
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:16814 rec.autos:30052
From: MIZUTANT@fred.wharton.upenn.edu (Taka Mizutani)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
Subject: Making your car quieter
Date: 17 Dec 92 17:28:54 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech, rec.autos
Organization: University of Pennsylvania

Hi,
I have a 1987 Nissan Pathfinder that is too noisy. I recently replaced the
exhaust with a Dynomax free-flow muffler and larger diameter pipes, in the
interest of higher performance. However, now the exhaust is too loud.

I know the obvious solution is to go back to the stock exhaust. Has anyone
tried to use Dynamat or any other sound-deadening material to make their
car quieter? I was hoping that other people with aftermarket exhausts on
their car might be able to help.

Thanks in advance,

Taka Mizutani
MIZUTANT@fred.wharton.upenn.edu
From: kjt0@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (KENNETH JAMES TSANG)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Chrysler tranny slippage
Date: 19 Dec 92 01:36:55 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

I was wondering if anyone out there might be able to help me find out what's
wrong with the transmission in my car.  I have a '84 Chry Laser w/ 3 speed
automatic and the non-turbo 2.2.
Whenever I make a turn and then apply gas (about halfway thru the turn) the
transmission slips (into neutral, I presume) and revs high, then the tranny
pops back into gear.  This also occurs when the engine (and tranny) are
*really cold* (overnight below 0 deg C) and if you try to accelerate quickly
in a straight line.  However none of this ever happens when I drive the car on
a straight line (and it's warmed up) or go around a corner & lightly apply
the gas or downshift to keep the revs up in the corner.
Does anybody have any ideas on how bad and how much???

                                Thanks,
                                 Ken
-- 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: wilhelal@sage.cc.purdue.edu (Tony Wilhelm)
Subject: Re: Help w/ talking car
Organization: Purdue University Computing Center
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1992 04:11:34 GMT

In article <hhelanto.724561509@vipunen.hut.fi> hhelanto@vipunen.hut.fi (Henri R Helanto) writes:
>In <wf=Upai00WBL4303ha@andrew.cmu.edu> Christopher Bradley Devlin <cd1i+@andrew.cmu.edu> writes:
>
>>before?  I figure I have two choices, 1) Go around and jump all the
>>sensors (in the doors, the seatbelts, the brake, the washerfluid (for
>>Christ's sake), etc.).  The only problems I see here is that it will be
>>time consuming and then I may diconnect the only warning sensors.  I
>
>	Why don't you just cut the speaker cables and presto - you
>	have a mute car again...
>
>-Henri
Would it be neat if you could rewire the control box and use manual switches
on the dash with about a nice pair of 6 1/2 speakers and pumping 50W/ch. 
And have a neat system.

If you decide to take out the control box I would be interested in buying it
just for that purpose. 

I would need to have the wires labeled when they are cut so I could have some
fun.

If you don't take it out could you tell me what year, make, and model so
I could find one at a junkyard ?

				Tony Wilhelm

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: drabik@eecom.gatech.edu (Timothy J. Drabik)
Subject: Re: Electromotive Inc.: STAY AWAY
Keywords: Engine management
Organization: /etc/organization
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 19:01:44 GMT

In article <94_ra+#@dixie.com> jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond) writes:
>rodder@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Jon D. Rodder) writes:
>
>*WOW*,
>$1100 for just the ignition?  They nicked you full retail at least.
>*WOW*
>
>John

No kidding.  Another interesting "feature:"  you don't just by the box,
you have also to pay ~$200 for a "license" for the software to program it.
Not as if it had the functionality of, say, AutoCAD, either.

	Tim
-- 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jeffb@world.std.com (Jeffrey T Berntsen)
Subject: Re: Problems with gas and temp. gauge
Organization: The World @ Software Tool & Die
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 06:17:29 GMT

khayat@enp.umd.edu writes:

>Hi;
>I have a Nissan Pulsar 89 and lately I have had problems with the gas and
>temprature gauge. The problem happened after a rainy and humid day couple
>weeks ago; although I am not sure if this actually caused it. The gas and
>tempreture gauge simultaneously quit on me and it tells me that I am run-
>ning on empty. The temp. readout also never moves from the sub-cold posit-
>ion. So I have had to time my refuling using the mileage meter; I've been
>lucky so far!
>I have checked the fuses and there is only a fuse for the fuel pump which
>is fine. 
>I have seen the fuel needle come up very occasionaly when the car is star-
>ting for the first time in the day and in very cold weather.

>Can anybody offer me a hint? 
>Thanks in advance for your help. 
>Mohammad

Two possibilities I can think of off the top of my head:

1) you have a bad ground to your dash guages which breaks its connection when
   warm.  There might be a bad connection to a voltage source instead.

2) your dash guages have their own voltage regulator and it's going flakey.
   something very similar happened to my 1971 AMC Gremlin, R.I.P., which 
   caused the guages to constantly move higher and lower when the inside was
   at a certain temp.

Jeff Berntsen
jeffb@world.std.com

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech