HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: amz@iguana.cis.ohio-state.edu (Arnold M Zwicky)
Subject: Re: Sensitive plants (??)
Followup-To: rec.gardens
Summary: mimosa pudica
Organization: osu, outil, lsa, stanford,...
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 21:25:15 GMT

from the ahs _Encyclopedia of Garden Plants_:

Mimosa pudica (Sensitive plant, Touch-me-not)

Short-lived, evergreen shrub with prickly stems; needs support.
Fernlike leaves fold when touched.  Has minute, pale mauve-pink
flowers in summer-autumn.  Min. 55-61 F (13-16 C).

Prefers partial shade, well-drained soil.  Hardiness zone 10.

(i've grown it as a medium-sized house plant; ohio is far from
usda zone 10.)

arnold
From: mguyott@eriador.prime.com (M. Guyott)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: How to grow grass?
Date: 1 Sep 92 16:02:34 GMT
Organization: /etc/organization

In article <1801liINNjrh@agate.berkeley.edu> macklin@garnet.berkeley.edu (Macklin Burnham) writes:
>
>'Course, you have to know the
>difference between fescue, Kentucky Blue Grass, etc.

I don't know the difference between fescue, Kentucky Blue Grass, rye, etc.
How can I find out?  Which type of grass (listed above or otherwise) is best
for a lawn in the North East?

Marc
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: spears@bobcat.lmc.edu (Gene Spears)
Subject: Re: morning glory seeds
Organization: Lees-McRae College, Banner Elk, NC
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 19:47:23 GMT

In article <1992Aug29.213015.2990@hemlock.cray.com> jill@cray.com (Jill McAllister) writes:

>I have been harvesting the seeds produced by my morning glories.  Is there
>any reason not to use these next spring instead of buying seed packets?
>For instance, they're not sterile or anything, right?

>Thanks,
>Jill McAllister
>(jill@cray.com)

Ipomoea are generally obligate outcrossers, meaning that if they produce a 
seed, the seeds will probably be perfectly good.  The seeds are especially 
thick-walled, some can be stored for years, and many germinate better if you 
scarify the seed and soak it overnight before planting.

Gene Spears
spears@bobcat.lmc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: beb@pt.com (Bruce Buck)
Subject: Re: Ponds and Sump Pumps (was Re: Pond Building
Organization: Performance Technologies, Incorporated
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 12:03:11 GMT

In article <1992Aug18.200609.1865@bmerh85.bnr.ca> lenny@x400gate.bnr.ca writes:
>
>
>Are there any obvious reasons *not* to run the output from a household
>sump pump into a fish pond?  This is just an idea of mine, I haven't
>actually tried it yet... but it seems to have lots of positives such
>as reduced filtering requirements, constant fresh water supply to the
>pond inhabitants - and the aethestics of a pond sure beat the heck out
>of a drainage ditch. :)

We moved into a house where this is exactly the setup.  It worked fine for 
awhile until...

The pond had an overflow pipe so that the water would only reach a certain 
level after which the water would drain into a ditch which would drain into a
nearby lake.  The outlet of the overflow pipe was blocked by construction on
the road.  Big deal, we say, the pond will never flood.  Maybe not, but the
level rose above the sump pump discharge which then promptly froze the following
December.  Fortunately my wife was home when the sump pump kicked on and didn't
shut off.

I'm still not sure of the "correct" way to set up the pump discharge.  Should 
it be sufficiently above the pond so it's never under water?  Or should it be
sufficently underwater so it never freezes?

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: tching@target.water.ca.gov (Tracy Ching <SysAdmin>)
Subject: Re: How to grow grass?
Organization: California State University, Sacramento
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 14:46:59 GMT

In article <1992Sep1.190336.6429@iscsvax.uni.edu> klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes:
>mguyott@eriador.prime.com (M. Guyott) writes:
>
>You may want to do a very basic soil test (our local extension service 
>does pH and NPK for $8) before you start putting down soil amendments.
>
>The FAQ on lawns is _still_ being written (where does the time go?!),
	What is the typical pH and NPK for fescue and Kent. blue?
(I know the FAQ is "in the mail" but I'd like to know a soon as possible)
From: macklin@garnet.berkeley.edu (Macklin Burnham)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: How to grow grass?
Date: 1 Sep 1992 17:03:52 GMT
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
NNTP-Posting-Host: garnet.berkeley.edu

In article <1992Sep1.160234.4228@primerd.prime.com> mguyott@eriador.prime.com (M. Guyott) writes:
>In article <1801liINNjrh@agate.berkeley.edu> macklin@garnet.berkeley.edu (Macklin Burnham) writes:
>>
>>'Course, you have to know the
>>difference between fescue, Kentucky Blue Grass, etc.
>
>I don't know the difference between fescue, Kentucky Blue Grass, rye, etc.
>How can I find out?  Which type of grass (listed above or otherwise) is best
>for a lawn in the North East?
>
>Marc

After I discovered that I was in the rye farming business, I went down to
the hardware store and bought a Sunset book called "Lawns and other
Ground Covers", or something similar. That's how I learned, belatedly,
about lawn seed labels. The book has pictures, etc. In fact, it will
answer all of your questions. Good luck
Mack Burnham
.

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: gere@umunhum.stanford.edu (Susan Gere)
Subject: Re: Pink Pearl Apples
Organization: Stanford University
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 92 23:00:05 GMT

Alice Ramirez writes:
>Is anyone out there growing Pink Pearl apples?  [etc.]

 I have a White Pearmain from the Sonoma Antique Apple nursery, and
they described it in the catalog as an old Napa valley favorite.

 It's got a lovely pale yellow skin and mottled pink and white flesh.
Quite attractive, tastes delicious, and suitable for pie and I imagine
for applesauce as well. Definitely does well in our low chill area.
(Not sure about harsher climes.)  I do recommend it.

 By the way, this is really stupid but I've been having trouble
telling when my apples are ripe. Some drop off (are pushed by the
jays?) before they are, and others stay on the branch until they
start getting hidden bad spots. If I can't reach them to smell,
how do I know?  Pulling off easily doesn't seem to be diagnostic,
either.
			call me... "city gardener"	:-{
From: louiset@informix.com (Louise Twiggs)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Pond Building
Date: 26 Aug 92 13:23:33 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

In article <714798363.F00001@therose.pdx.com> Jack.Honeycutt@f52.n105.z1.therose.pdx.com (Jack Honeycutt) writes:
>Hello Louise!
>
>24 Aug 92, Louise Twiggs writes to All:
>
>
[stuff from my previous article deleted]


>Say Louise, I just found a great magazine from the UK called "Aquarist and
>Pondkeeper".  Do you read this?  What do you think of it?

No, I havn't seen it, my boyfriend buys several Aquarist mags (we're keen
tropical fish keepers) but I don't think that is one of them.  I don't
have a pond myself yet, as I don't have a garden! (Unless you call a
dozen tubs on a roof a garden) - Hopefully VERY soon!
I will look out for the mag though - I'll let you know what I think.

>
>It is going to cost me 28 pounds a year surface and 47 for air to get it.
>I am still trying to figure out how much a pound is in US dollars.....

Well, as of yesterday - you got 1.99 dollars to each UK pound. So a pound
is worth roughly double a dollar.  (Great for us Brits on vacation in US!)

>
>Is your colleague that has the pond a member of the International Water Lily
>Society?

I don't think so, his primary interest is Koi.

>
>Glad this news group get's out to the UK.  Would love to keep in touch with
>pondkeepers in your area.

Well, I am cheating a bit, I have access to a machine in the US, and I run
NEWS from there.  (It's a bit slow despite the X25).

>
>Jack, SYSOP The Garden Pond BBS, Portland Oregon, USA.

Is your BBS free?  - or would I need to subscribe - I guess it would 
still be costly from the UK.

>
>Jack

Louise
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: alcuew@meaddata.com (Alcue Williams)
Subject: Pruning a Magnolia Tree
Organization: Mead Data Central, Dayton OH
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1992 19:16:12 GMT
Distribution: rec.gardens


Hello,

I hope that someonce can help be out.  I have a Magnolia tree that has growth 
coming from aorund where it looks like the tree had been grafted to root stock.	
In the past, for other trees I have clipped off the new growth at the graft.  It
seems, so I was told, that this growth is from the root stock and not from the
grafted tree.  I was told that the growth should be clipped off or it will rob
resources from the grafted stock.  Since I am not familiar with Magnolia trees
growth habits, I wanted to check to see if I should prune off these new growths.

Thanks in advance.

Alcue


 ____________________________________________________________________________
|                                                                            |
|          Alcue Williams III - Product Certification Engineering            | 
|          Mead Data Central                  alcuew@meaddata.com            | 
|          P.O. Box 933                     uunet!meaddata!alcuew            |
|          Dayton, OH 45401                   (513) 865-1252                 |  
|____________________________________________________________________________|
|                                                                            |
| "We trained hard,  but it seemed that every time we were beginning to form |
| up into teams, we would be reorganized.  I was to learn later in life that |
| we tend to meet any new situation by reorganizing;  and a wonderful method |
| it can be for creating the illusion of progress while producing confusion, |
| inefficiency, and demoralization."      -Petronius Arbiter, 210 BC         |
|____________________________________________________________________________|
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: premature apple drop
Date: 23 Aug 92 16:19:01 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

In article <1992Aug18.104602.19458@icf.hrb.com>, spm@icf.hrb.com writes:
> I have an apple tree... It's a full-size (not a dwarf) tree, mature,
> and is professionally pruned. It bears heavily, but year after year almost all
> of the apples fall before reaching full size and ripening. 

Bet you don't thin your apples after the normal June drop... ordinarily to 
1 apple every 5 inches or so.  If you thin, you'll get a medium crop of
decent sized apples every year; without thinning, about all you can expect
is a bunch of little apples every other year.  The shade probably doesn't
help the situation, either.   Were the tree mine, I'd probably give up
on this one for apples (it's hard to prune or pick a full-size apple tree)
and put in a couple of dwarfs or semi-dwarfs for fruit.

Kay Klier  Biology Dept  UNI
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: janez@base.bellcore.com (Jane Zysk)
Subject: Re: Any experience with lawn sweepers?
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 92 17:30:11 GMT

In article <6814@tekig7.PEN.TEK.COM>, montys@tekig7.PEN.TEK.COM (Monty D Smith) writes:
|> Does anyone out there have any experience with lawn sweepers?  Looks
|> kind of like a push mower, but it pick up leaves instead of mowing.
|> 
|> Do they work?  
|> Are they more work than raking or blowing?
|> Any price info?

	When I was little (maybe about 7 or 8 years old), I used
	to use our lawn sweeper to pick up leaves in Autumn.  As
	I recall, it was really easy and worked really well....
	and, for a little kid, it was certainly easier than raking!
	I think it was easier to push than a lawn mower, too.

	I don't know how much they cost these days, but I bet
	a scan of catalogs like Smith & Hawkin or Plow & Hearth
	or, maybe even Seventh Generation will answer that question.
Jane Zysk
janez@base.bellcore.com
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: vittallo@ssd.comm.mot.com (John Vittallo)
Subject: how much sun does garlic need
Organization: Motorola
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 21:01:09 GMT

I planted garlic in two not-so-sunny spots this year.  How much `grass`
top is a healthy garlic plant supposed to have.  Mine have about 5
strands that are now green but flopped over.  The strands are about 1
foot long. Does this sound about right or did my garlic plants suffer
from not enough sun.   
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: br105@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey A. Del Col)
Subject: Apples Ripe do cry for picking
Reply-To: br105@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey A. Del Col)
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 92 15:27:40 GMT


So the subject line isn't exactly Campion or Herrick; anyway,
if the apples are firm, but not rock hard, they are ripe.  If they 
have developed freckles and a blush, they are probably ripe.  The ultimate
test is to taste one.  As for green apples such as Granny Smiths (vastly over-
rated, IMHO; give me Grimes Golden any day) taste and smell are the only way
to judge ripeness.

J. Del Col
-- 
Jeff Del Col      *       "I'm never lonely,...living in my heavily      
A-B College       *   populated solitude, a harum-scarum of infinity        
Philippi, WV      *   and eternity, and Infinity and Eternity seem to          
                  *   take a liking to the likes of me." Bohumil Hrabal.
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: zones
Date: 3 Sep 92 20:47:17 -0500
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

In article <1992Sep3.232253.1003@fs7.ece.cmu.edu>, snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu (John Snyder) writes:
> I keep hearing about zones (USDA zones?).  How do I find out what they mean
> and which zone I am in?  I believe that our average last frost date is 
> between May 1 and 15; our first fall frost is usually the second week in 
> October.

The old USDA plant hardiness zones were based on minimum winter temperatures:
if the average min. temp is -30 to -20 (my area), you were in zone 4; Pitts-
burgh was zone 5 (-20 to -10oF).  In 1990, the USDA released a new version 
of the zone map that was much more detailed, and seems to work a bit better.
You'll still see the older map in many catalogs, but this isn't really a
concern unless you were on one of the edges of the old zones (and those of
us who were usually bought plants hardy the next zone north anyhow).

These maps are really only gross approximations-- there is a lot of
difference in what you can grow in a sheltered city garden compared to
a windswept farmstead.  Likewise, having a hill that cold air can drain
down can give you a little extra margin of safety for plant hardiness.

You can buy a *really* detailed copy of the USDA map from the Superintendent
of Documents for about $7; most of us make do with the ones that are 
tucked inside the pretty picture catalogs of US firms selling perennials
or nursery stock.   Do Canadians use the USDA maps, or is there a
separate scheme?

There are also a number of other plant hardiness zone schemes, so you
might want to check if something sounds fishy.   Mostly though, the
NAm gardeners talking about "zones" seem to be using the USDA zones.

Kay Klier  Biology Dept  UNI
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: pjf@sei.cmu.edu (Priscilla Fowler)
Subject: climbing hydrangea
Organization: Software Engineering Institute
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 12:58:22 GMT

Does any one have any experience with climbing hydrangea?  The
Wayside catalogue says it will climb unsupported 60-80 feet.
Does it damage buildings, e.g., brick walls?  Can it be pruned?
Is it an attractive plant?  How much sun does it need, and
what growing conditions?

Thanks!

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: drmax@casbah.acns.nwu.edu (Marianna Max)
Subject: Re: Squirrel/Skunk repellent
Organization: Northwestern University, Evanston Illinois.
Distribution: na
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1992 19:44:06 GMT

In article <1992Aug26.214401.13014@lpi.liant.com> anthony@lpi.liant.com (Anthony Beissner) writes:

>
>BTW, wouldn't the animals that you are trying to scare have to have met a fox
>in the past before this would work?  I have lots of squirrels eating my pecans
>but have never seen a fox in my neighborhood.  ;-).
>
Not necessarily. Many animals have smell avoidance/attraction behavior that
is instinctual. Pheormones for example, a male dog doesn't need to learn to
appreciate the smell of a female dog in heat.
From: M.Steven@uws.edu.au (Mike Steven)
Subject: Re: Australian plants/Ameriflora
Organization: University of Western Sydney, Hawkesbury
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1992 22:15:09 GMT

In article <1992Aug27.161438.11634@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>, kls@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Kenneth L Shellberg) writes:
> 
> Went to Ameriflora yesterday and the Australian exhibit had plants for
> sale.  I picked up two which were purported to be hardy in zone 5
> Columbus, Ohio.  Naturally, neither of these were listed in my references,
> which are largely oriented towards plants available for north american
> gardens (Dirr for the woodies, and Clausen & Ekstrom for the perennials).
> 
> The woody plant is Metrosideros tomentosus (M. excelsus), New Zealand Xmas
> Tree-Bush.  

As its common name suggests the Metrosideros excelsa, or Pohutukawa as it is
more frequently known is a NZ native, not an Australian. It grows widely around 
the coasts of NZ, often in the most inhospitable conditions where it is subjected
to strong winds and drenching salt sprayit is extremely tough. Frostit will
tolerate up to 1012 degrees F. The largest Pohutukawa in NZ is 19.81 metres
high and has a spread of 38.4 m and is reputed to be over 300 years old. In
cultivation 1218m (4060ft) with a broad spreading crown could be expected in 
the right conditions. It can be trimmed into the form of a hedge or cut back
hard. It is quite well adapted to dry conditions (it frequently grows in rock!)
and can often be seen with a dense mat of fibrous aerial roots hanging from the 
branches. Will it grow in Ohio? You tell mewhat climate do you have over there?

Mike
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: tmcfarla@fraser.sfu.ca (Tara McFarlane)
Subject: Re: Perennials vs Hardy Perennials
Organization: Simon Fraser University, Burnaby, B.C., Canada
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 08:22:48 GMT

heim@vms.macc.wisc.edu (JOHN HEIM	) writes:

>What difference, if any, is there between a regular perennial and a 
>hardy perennial?  Is the difference (if any) something I need to 
>consider in choosing plants here in Wisconsin?

>Thanks in advance.

>PS. In looking through my Jung seed catalog for the spelling of 
>perennial I found 2 free seed packets in the order envelope. :-)

>John G. Heim                                 Email:  heim@macc.wisc.edu

>"If there's something wrong with the computer, its sophisticated diagnostics 
>will notify you of the situation by assuming an appearance that, for the most
>part, is dark and lifeless." - The Adventures of Lone Wolf Scientific
 
well perennial simply means that it will come back year after year if the 
conditions are right, but that doesn't mean that your climate provides the 
right conditions. citrus trees are perennials as they survive from year to 
year, but i think you'll find they won't come back next year if you try to
plant one in wisconsin. a hardy perennial is one which will tolerate a 
specific climate to come back year after year. wisconsin has a relatively
inhospitable winter so far as many garden plants are concerned so i'd make
sure that the perennials you plant are hardy, meaning they'll make it
through your winter.
From: charlie@aqua.ocunix.on.ca (elizabeth webster)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: lima beans and indoor lights
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 92 02:24:52 GMT
Organization: The Aquarium, Ottawa, Ontario

Thanks to Mother Nature and Ottawa's northern latitude, only 2 of the
50 Lima bean seeds that I planted germinated, and those two are only 1
to 2 inches high now.  Since the freezing weather is about to descend
upon us and I would like to get at least a token return for my efforts I
am planning to move the seedlings indoors.  Unfortunatelay, my apartment
only has a northerly exposure and no natural sunlight comes in my
windows.

However, my significant other is a hobby aquarist and we have several
fluorescent light bulbs not currently in use.  ie. "Power-glo" (20W),
"Aqua-glo" (15W), and "Sun-glo" (15W).  I was wondering if I could use
these to promote indoor plant growth?  If so, could I also use them to
sprout seeds next spring?


====================================
     charlie@aqua.ocunix.on.ca
  The Aquarium BBS  2400-14400 bps
          (613) 736-1481
====================================
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Snapdragon --> black spots --> wilt
Date: 23 Aug 92 20:46:40 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

In article <klliou.714589519@milton>, klliou@milton.u.washington.edu (Kan-Lee Liou) writes:
> I got great snapdragons last year, so I planted a lot this year (I even
> used some seeds from last year).  However, they were not doing very good this
> year.  First, some of them got small black spots on their leaves and then 
> wilted.  Today, I just got rid of all of them because they all got black spots 
> and wilted.  

My best guess is they were infected with a rust fungus-- and there are rust-
resistant varieties that can be planted next year.  You can also apply
various fungicides before the rust spots develop -- after is too late.

If the seed you use was seed you had saved from last year's plants, chances
are that you planted F-2's, and they did not show the disease resistance of
their F-1 parents.

But we really need our fungus expert... Karen, are you back in GA yet, or
are you still hunting smutty bluestems in Iowa?

Kay Klier   Biology Dept  UNI
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: bednarek@picard.med.ge.com (Dennis Bednarek Mfg 4-6971)
Subject: Re: Dog 'peepee'
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 92 09:24:45 GMT


The savior that kept our dog alive years ,back was lime.  By appling a heavy
coat on lime monthly and then a heavy soaking of water we created green spots
rather than brown spots.  Where ever our female boxers relieved themselves
the grass grew faster and was a deeper green color.
--

  
###############################################################################
###NEVER - NEVERMORE###########################################################
###############################################################################
####################################What are the contents of the oblong box?##
###############################################################################
  The usual disclaimer of self and employer applies to all above comments.
#
From: Jack.Honeycutt@f52.n105.z1.therose.pdx.com (Jack Honeycutt)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Needed:  Landscape Design Software
Date: 26 Aug 92 09:43:14 GMT

Hello Jon!

25 Aug 92, Jon Noring writes to (xpost: 6) All:

 JN> I'd like to find all the available software (payware, shareware, or
 JN> freeware) that is specifically written for doing landscape design and/or
 JN> architecture. My computer is a 486 pc running DOS 5.0

I have some shareware landscape and garden software on my BBS, The Garden Pond
BBS, 1-503-735-3074 in Portland Oregon.  If you call, you can down load the
file: POND.ZIP (or POND.LST if you can not un'zip a file) for a list of all the
files on the BBS.  I support 16.8K, 14.4K, 9600, etc.

Jack