HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Subject: Re: Great idea but....
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 03:12:25 GMT
Organization: ddsw1.MCS.COM Contributor, Chicago, IL

In article <7149@tekig7.PEN.TEK.COM> rone@tekig1.PEN.TEK.COM (Ronald W Ezetta) writes:
>In article <BvDE77.Ly1@ddsw1.mcs.com> arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) writes:
>
>  With a heavy heart, and much introspection, I'd like to use a little
>  bandwidth for a non-brewing related posting.  All of this flag waving,
>  patriotic mumbo jumbo has pushed me over the edge.
>
>  Jack has a very long, and well documented history, in talk.politics.misc,
>  talk.politics.jewish, among other newsgroups.  I will not go into
>  specifics, but to alert those of you who are leaning towards purchase of
>  Jack's products because of patriotic and/or political reasons (as in the
>  quoted section of his article above), that an inspection of Jack's
>  politics would be appropriate.

>  I do not intend to sway the readership opinion. I mearly wish to
>  point out the data and allow the readership to draw its own conclusions.


Yes.  Just drop a handgranade and run?  Vote the county dry and move out?

Comments like yours put you high on the list of suspects for the hate-monger
who is calling brewshop owners and telling them I am a Nazi.  You guy will
stop at nothing to defend your political views.

Are you actually suggesting that homebrewers not by a mm because of my
political views?

You are really sicko.
From: seth@mivax.mc.duke.edu (SETH)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: New Durham store
Keywords: 544-3023=Too Good to be Homebrew
Date: 6 Oct 92 16:52:00 GMT
Organization: Duke University Medical Center
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

Apology #1: I tried but failed to post this locally.
Apology #2: ...if this was posted previously.
            [fortunately, electrons are plentiful and fungible (I love that
            word!)]

Too Good to be Homebrew is a new durham store (544-3023).  They have no
real storefront, but will deliver to YOUR HOUSE for FREE if the order is over
$20.  You can also stop by their house...

Some people drink, but homebrewers IMBIBE!
HM/HS
From: hasn@midway.uchicago.edu (Sheheryar Hasnain)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Simple question
Date: 29 Sep 92 16:09:12 GMT
Article-I.D.: midway.1992Sep29.160912.13933
Organization: University of Chicago

While I was in Burlington VT last week I picked up the Premium Brewing Kit from "Something's
Brewing", a great store and very reasonable too. I encourage people to mail order from there since
the people there are friendly and helpful and they are a relatively new store (1 year old).
Since I couldn't carry the equipment back on the plane, I will be receiving it sometime next week 
via UPS.  I can't wait. But in the meantime I have a quick question:

The beginners recipe they suggested for this month is "Kangaroo Ale".  Its basically a mixture 
of Coopers and John Bull Light.  However, I have a packet of yeast from them and ANOTHER 
PACKET OF YEAST IN THE COOPERS PACK (under the plastic lid).  Should I use both 
packets of yeast?   I definitely dont want my beer tasting too much of yeast!

BTW, their Premium Kit is great.  I'll post the contents and price (very reasonable) if anyone is 
interested in begining brewing.
From: roy.rudebusch%travel@wugate.wustl.edu (Roy Rudebusch) 
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: professional mead skills
Date: 28 Sep 92 07:00:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Travel Online, St. Louis, MO
Reply-To: roy.rudebusch%travel@wugate.wustl.edu (Roy Rudebusch) 

Dear Fellow Mead Fans;

I've brewed about 30 - 5 gal batches of mead over the past three years
and this is my next project:

Tradtional Mead  5 gal OG 1140

7# Mesquite honey dissolved up to 2.5 gal water. Add:
.5 tsp Sodium Bisulfite
1 tsp regular strength pectic enzyme
2 tsp yeast nutrient
1 tsp acid blend
stir well. Let sit in warm place, (60-75F) for 2-5 days.

On the 2nd day start building the yeast starter, boil 1 cup of dry
malt extract in 1 pint water. Re-hydrate a pack of wine yeast,
(rec. Prise De Mouse), by adding it to 1 cup of 100F water, stir for 15
minutes. Add to cooled extract water. Shake well __for 1 hour__.

When yeast starter begins to give off CO2 add 2 more cups of DME,
(preboiled in 1 qt water), aerate again.

When yeast starter looks active, add to must. Aerate by pouring the
pitched must back and forth between two pails about 20 times. Do not
remove sediment as it is necessary for fermentation.

When the mead has fermented below 1.010 prepare the second addtion of
honey:

13# Mesquite honey dissolved up to 2.5 gal water. Add:
.125 tsp Sodium Bisulfite
2 tsp pectic enzyme
2.5 tsp yeast nutrient
2 tsp acid blend
stir well, rest as before.

After 2-5 days, add to fermenter along with the presently fermenting
mead. Mix well.

The eventual OG of the wort = 1140. Shoot for a FG of 1.020 - 1.030.

If it takes a long time for the original ferment to drop to 1.010 you
may not want to add the second honey addition.

Vinters produce strong wines by starting a regular-strength wine with a
gravity no greater than 1.100. This is to ensure the yeast can ferment
it. Undiluted honey does not ferment because the osmolarity of the
solution is too high,  If diluted to 1140 it will eventually stop around
1050.

Most wine yeast has a tendency to floculate prematurely, to avoid
racking off of the yeast, stir the mead and rack 6-18 hours later, as
the trub will settle first.

If the mead should ferment too dry, dilute .5# honey with an equal part
of water and treat with SO2 and pectic enzyme and add to mead.

If you do everything as described this mead should ferment out in less
than a month. Bottle when the mead does not throw any sediment for a
three month period.

Try to avoid fusel alcohols by fermenting below 60F.

Wassail!

 * OLX 2.2 * Family that Brews MEAD Together Stays Together
From: klumpp@casbah.acns.nwu.edu Klumpp) (David Klumpp)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: kegging supp co.
Date: 29 Sep 92 21:08:12 GMT
Article-I.D.: alexande.klumpp-290992161135
Followup-To: rec.crafts.brewing
Organization: Northwestern U.

Finally I've found some cheaper prices on beverage tanks, and I thought
others might be interested.  The company is

								BCI Industries, Inc. (formerly Bevcon International)
								somewhere in Tenn.
								(800) 284-9410
								(901) 476-4811 fax
								talk to Chuck Young

The following are some prices:

										10 gal tank								$22.50
											5																		26.50 (2 handles w/ rubberized ends)
											5																		22.50 ( all-metal w/ 1 handle)
											3																		29.50 !!!!!! ($45 thru my local HB shop)
											2 ga. regulator				36.50 ($45 thru the  local shop)

I just ordered 2x3gal and a 5gal plus a 2ga regulator for 134.67 (COD and
shipping included).  BCI is a supplier to HB shops, so they also have any
fittings, tubing, etc anyone should need.

If anyone knows of a supplier with even better prices, please let me know.

Dave

David Klumpp
Dept. Biochemistry, Molecular Biology and Cell Biology
Northwestern Univeristy
2153 Sheridan
Evanston, IL 60208
klumpp@casbah.acns.nwu.edu
From: rone@tekig1.PEN.TEK.COM (Ronald W Ezetta)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Great idea but....
Date: 1 Oct 92 16:10:03 GMT
Article-I.D.: tekig7.7149
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Beaverton,  OR.

In article <BvDE77.Ly1@ddsw1.mcs.com> arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) writes:
> 
> The Marcato is made in Italy and the Corona is made in 
> Columbia.  Everytime you buy one, you are taking away jobs 
> from the nice American folks who make MALTMILLS and all the 
> bits and pieces that go into them.
> 
> I proudly stick an American flag on every one.  I pay a 
> premium to assure that every single screw is U.S. made.  I 
> could take it to Hong Kong or Korea and have it made for $20
> to put an end to this discussion but it seems to me that 
> enough of that has already been done by greedy Americans.

  With a heavy heart, and much introspection, I'd like to use a little
  bandwidth for a non-brewing related posting.  All of this flag waving,
  patriotic mumbo jumbo has pushed me over the edge.

  Jack has a very long, and well documented history, in talk.politics.misc,
  talk.politics.jewish, among other newsgroups.  I will not go into
  specifics, but to alert those of you who are leaning towards purchase of
  Jack's products because of patriotic and/or political reasons (as in the
  quoted section of his article above), that an inspection of Jack's
  politics would be appropriate.

  I do not intend to sway the readership opinion. I mearly wish to
  point out the data and allow the readership to draw its own conclusions.

-Ron Ezetta-
From: ibiggs@fox.nstn.ns.ca (Ian Biggs)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Boddington's Draught Replications????
Date: 29 Sep 92 20:21:45 GMT
Article-I.D.: fox.ibiggs.20
Organization: Atlantic Canada Opportunities Agency (ACOA)


For a while, when I was living in the U.K., I became addicted to a local 
beer called Boddington's Draught.  You could get it on tap or in the special 
Bo-Bo can (don't ask me to describe the can).  It had a roast acorn flavor 
and the most spectacular head I've ever seen.

You would pour the beer into a glass and all there would be is head, 
consisting of a creamy white substance at the top, with a swirling grey head 
below it.  The grey head would gradually diminish until all there is left is 
the white head (and of course the beer, which wouldn't last long).

This roast acorn taste is what I'm after.  If anyone has tried this beer and 
can recommend a good kit with some special instructions it would be greatly 
appreciated.  I'm back in Canada, land o' shitty lager, and I ready to take 
my tastebuds back to Europe.  Will someone please supply them with the 
recipe/plane ticket?

Kevin Crawford            "I drink therefore I am" -- Rene Descartes
(ibiggs@fox.nstn.ns.ca)
Halifax, N.S.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: reb@Ingres.COM (Phydeaux)
Subject: Re: WANTED: How to make whiskey / references...
Reply-To: reb@Ingres.COM (Phydeaux)
Organization: E 4th St Home For The Overeducated Underemployed - Chicago Div.
Date: 29 Sep 92 20:39:22 GMT

In article <1aa30gINNfd3@network.ucsd.edu> spl@szechuan.ucsd.edu (Steve Lamont) writes:
>In article <ASAH.92Sep28234909@cory.cory.Berkeley.EDU> asah@cory.Berkeley.EDU (Adam Sah) writes:
>>I have friends who know how to brew beer, but whiskey seems to elude them.
>>  Do any of you netters have pointers?  (ie. is there a file around that
>>  someone has that tells me about this)
>
>Whiskey probably eludes them because they're not interested in eluding
>the "revenooers."  The making of distilled spirits (as opposed to
>fermented beverages, such as beer or wine) is very tightly controlled
>by the Federal Government (for our own protection, of course).  They
>tax the hell out of it, for one thing.

I was under the impression that the same laws that "allow"  us to make
beer  allow us  to  make a certain   limited  quantity  of  "distilled
spirits."
				reb
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: rob@med.umich.edu (Robert Strawderman)
Subject: Re: Simple question
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 92 08:36:11 EDT
Organization: University of Michigan Health Sciences, Ann Arbor
Distribution: umich
Reply-To: rob@med.umich.edu (Robert Strawderman)
Originator: rob@gaspra


I'm interested - go ahead and post it.

Rob
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: rob@med.umich.edu (Robert Strawderman)
Subject: Re: Great idea but....
Date: Fri, 02 Oct 92 12:10:32 EDT
Organization: University of Michigan Health Sciences, Ann Arbor
Distribution: umich
Reply-To: rob@med.umich.edu (Robert Strawderman)
Originator: rob@gaspra


FUCKING DROP IT ALREADY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Or, take it elsewhere.  I, for one, am really sick of malt mills,
made in America or not.

READ: it doesn't belong here!!!!!!!!

Whew.......
From: rcpt@rwb.urc.tue.nl (Piet Tutelaers)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Why Should I Buy a Grain Mill?
Date: 26 Sep 92 19:30:03 GMT
Reply-To: rcpt@urc.tue.nl

homebrew@lupulus.ssc.gov writes:

>I picked up twenty pounds of pale malt yesterday, and while I was
>waiting for them to grind it and bag it, I noticed a Corona mill for
>sale for $60.  At first I thought, "that's not a whole lot of money",
>but then I tried to figure out how cost-effective it really is.

>I buy grains twenty or forty pounds at a time, for $0.64 per pound.
>For an extra $0.04 per pound, they grind the grain for me.  So to get
>that Corona mill to pay for itself, it would take 1500 pounds of grain;
>three-quarters of a ton!  At about eight pounds per batch, that's about
>187 batches of beer, and at roughly thirty batches per year, I'm
>looking at over six years for a $60 investment to pay off.  That
>doesn't strike me as very good economics.

Breweries don't use a mill for producing there grain. They use an expensive
equipment consisting of a number of roller pairs through which the malt is
pushed. This process keeps the outer skin of the grain intact. That has a
number of benefits: better filtration (the malt skins work as a natural
filter bed), the beer will better clear (no clouds) and even taste better.

Unfortunately I never saw affordable malt `schrood'-equipment. 
When I made beer some time ago I used a coffee mill that was used in shops
to provide fresh grinded coffee. This mill works fast but produces a too
fine grain. The filtration of the mash will takes hours ...

Once I got some `schrood' from the Dommelse Bierbrouwerij and noticed a
remarkable difference!

--Piet
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us (Joseph Nathan Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: The Elusive Scottish Crystal Malt...
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 92 19:00:50 EDT
Organization: 5 Sigma Software
Reply-To: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us
X-Mailer: uAccess - Macintosh Release: 1.5v5


> I decided to use Scottish crystal malt(I
> bought it from the Home Winemaking and Brewing shop in woodland hills, Ca.(home
> of the Maltose Falcons ;-))

I see that Scottish crystal is available this side of the pond, but
on the other side of this side of the pond.  Does anyone out there
know where I might find some a little closer to New Jersey?  Not that
I wouldn't order some from CA anyway ... I probably will Friday when
the store is open.  :-)  Too bad I wasn't able to order some today and have
it Fedexed out here for this weekend's brewing activities.  :-(  Oh, well!

For that matter, why can't I seem to find Belgian malt around here?
They've got it in California, they've got it in Texas, they've got
it in Chicago ... but surely it must make a stop here somewhere before
continuing on to points West???

I would really appreciate it if someone could send me the name of
the distributor(s) who carries these malts so I can pass the info on
to some of the local shops.

Final question:
How similar is something called "Vienna Amber" to real British Amber
malt?

uunet!joebloe!joseph   (609) 273-8200 day   joseph%joebloe@uunet.uu.net
2102 Ryan's Run East        Rt 38 & 41             Maple Shade NJ 80852
-----My employer isn't paying for this, and my opinions are my own-----
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: kelly@spyro.cray.com (Matt Kelly)
Subject: SOLDERING COPPER PIPES
Date: 1 Oct 92 11:29:13 CDT


I recall a recent thread about soldering copper pipes.  People are
worried, and rightly so, about using lead solder.

In case nobody has posted on this (I don't remember anyone doing so):

I went to the local hardware store last night and took a look at
lead-free plumbing solder.  According to the package, this solder
(made by OATEY) is made of TIN, COPPER, SILVER, and BISMUTH.  I
know tin, copper, and silver can't hurt you.  I don't know about the
bismuth.  I can't imagine it's bad for you or else why would they
bother substituting it for lead?

Not being a chemist, it seems like it should be fine for use in
homebrewing equipment.

One thing to be careful of, though, as with any soldering, is that all
flux needs to be removed before use, both inside the pipes and out.


Sorry if this has been covered already!!!

Matt

==============================================================================
kelly@els.cray.com                   |
                                     | Semper ubi sub ubi.
Opinions expressed herein are just   |
that.  Mine, not Cray's.             | -Julius Caesar
                                     |
==============================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Subject: Re: Great idea but....
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 02:42:42 GMT
Organization: ddsw1.MCS.COM Contributor, Chicago, IL

In article <hersh.717710601@xenon.lcs.mit.edu> hersh@expo.lcs.mit.edu (Jay Hersh) writes:

 
 
 >Many folks say Jack's mill has a good crush, but didn't 
 like the $100+ price tag.
 
 To be precise, the price is $99 FOB Chicago.  In other 
 words, all those folks who pick them up pay $99.  They also 
 get to sample the World's Gretest Beer and tour the giant 
 MALTMILL complex.
 
 >Jack says his mill crushes a pound a minute.
 
 Actually, the conservative statement in my low pressure, 
 promotional literature reads "less than one minute".  The 
 real number is about 25 seconds.
 
 BTW, a less enthusiastic Marcato owner reported that it 
 takes 15 mins to crush a pound.
 
 >Hopes this sums up the issue for all interested.
 
 There is one other very important consideration that has 
 been left out and needs to be taken into consideration and 
 that is....  JOBS!  JOBS! JOBS!
 
 The Marcato is made in Italy and the Corona is made in 
 Columbia.  Everytime you buy one, you are taking away jobs 
 from the nice American folks who make MALTMILLS and all the 
 bits and pieces that go into them.
 
 I proudly stick an American flag on every one.  I pay a 
 premium to assure that every single screw is U.S. made.  I 
 could take it to Hong Kong or Korea and have it made for $20
 to put an end to this discussion but it seems to me that 
 enough of that has already been done by greedy Americans.
 
 There are a few other points left out of the comparison that 
 might be worth pointing out.
 
 The MM has a 3/8" diameter shaft and requires no more than 
 removing the handle to chuck it up to an electric drill to 
 eliminate cranking.  The shaft will support the drill and 
 requires no other supporting structures or you can put a 
 pulley on the shaft and motorize it with the utmost ease.  
 One customer has it hooked up to a bicycle in his brewpub 
 and lets customers crush his malt.
 
 The MM has a 3 lb hopper that can be expanded easily with 
 cardboard and duct tape.   The Marcato hopper holds about a 
 cup.
 
 The MM output drops into a bucket of any size and requires 
 no intervention while crushing.   The Marcato output bin 
 holds 3/4 a cup and must be nothing but a nusiance.
 
 The MM is guaranteed to last FOREVER and any part that does 
 not will be cheerfully replaced by the same guy who screwed 
 it up.   Not quite sure what one does with a broken Marcato 
 or where one would get replacement parts.
 
 The MM was designed to crush malt for home brewers and 
 requires no re-engineering to do it properly and 
 efficiently.
 
 Finally, the MM is made by one of the most lovable people I 
 know.
 
 Actually, that's not as far from the truth as it sounds.  I 
 have my wife doing most of the work now :)
 
 js

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: mayer@osiris.cso.uiuc.edu (James Mayer)
Subject: Yeast Pitched at 90 degrees, Result?
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 13:54:20 GMT
Keywords: yeast, pitched

This past weekend our first attempt at brewing commenced.  We hydrated the
yeast at 97 degrees for 45 minutes and pitched it into a 99 degree wort.  9
hour later the initial blow off commenced rather dramatically discharging
about a quart.  The blowoff subsided at the 15 hour point and at the 36 hour
point there was very little activity including no gas discharge through the
fermentation lock.  A hydrometer reading went from 1.046 to 1.015 in just 36
hours.  Do we have a problem with this seemingly accelerated fermentation?
Did we indeed pitch the yeast at to high a temperature?  What will the resut
be on our beer?  Any and all comments are welcome.  In the end we will not
fret, but simply relax, not worry, and have a home brew (maybe).
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: dab@blitzen.uucp (25853-ballard)
Subject: dixie cup
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 92 13:20:18 GMT
Keywords: question




hey now-  to whoever posted the info on the dixie cup homebrew
competition (i don't remember who it was, sorry) how come there's
no mention of bitters in the style descriptions?  a friend of mine 
wanted to enter a bitter but is afraid of getting wasted for not
meeting a specified type...

dab



=============================================
dave ballard
dab@cc.bellcore.com


Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: hersh@expo.lcs.mit.edu (Jay Hersh)
Subject: Re: Great idea but....
Organization: X Consortium, MIT Laboratory for Computer Science
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 19:11:35 GMT

arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) writes:


> There are a few other points left out of the comparison that 
> might be worth pointing out.
> 
> The MM has a 3/8" diameter shaft and requires no more than 
> removing the handle to chuck it up to an electric drill to 
> eliminate cranking.  The shaft will support the drill and 
> requires no other supporting structures or you can put a 
> pulley on the shaft and motorize it with the utmost ease.  
> One customer has it hooked up to a bicycle in his brewpub 
> and lets customers crush his malt.

The Marcato also is easily driven by a power drill using a 3/8 inch
boring bit. 

> The MM has a 3 lb hopper that can be expanded easily with 
> cardboard and duct tape.   The Marcato hopper holds about a 
> cup.

Simple modifications using use soda containers allow
the hopper to be expanded to 2 lbs.

> The MM output drops into a bucket of any size and requires 
> no intervention while crushing.   The Marcato output bin 
> holds 3/4 a cup and must be nothing but a nusiance.

Again trivial modification allows the Marcato to have it's output
redirected by rigging a chute. Also the base is removabel so it
could easily be mounted onto a board with a hole as the MM is
and placed over a bucket.

> The MM is guaranteed to last FOREVER and any part that does 
> not will be cheerfully replaced by the same guy who screwed 
> it up.   Not quite sure what one does with a broken Marcato 
> or where one would get replacement parts.

The Marcato is very sturdy, easily dissasembled for maintenance and
lubrication and will likely last a long time. The firm that manufactures
it is the same one that markets Pasta Machines under the name Atlas.
They are easily contacted in the unlikely event parts break or wear
out.

Again I hold that the comparison is basically one of cost vs. throughput
and is simply a matter of personal choice/preference.

	JaH
--
Hopfen und Malz, Gott erhalts
From: atl@kpc.com (Drew Lynch)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Bottles suitable?
Date: 5 Oct 92 19:46:12 GMT
Article-I.D.: kpc.1992Oct5.194612.13027
Organization: Kubota Pacific Computer

In article <1992Oct5.160232.6408@hplabsz.hpl.hp.com>, kral@hplabsz.hpl.hp.com (Joseph Kral) writes:
|> I use bottles from Red Tail Ale, Samuel Adams, and others.  They appear to be
|> new and not previously used.  They work fine.  As for 'screw tops', one must
|> differentiate between 'screw tops' and 'twist offs'.  Screw tops are like
|> tonic water bottles.  These are unsuitable.  I've had no problem with 
|> twist offs.  Try your capper on one to see how it works (before bottling time).
|> 

I have successfully used screw tops, and would not even consider using twist-offs.  Your mileage may vary.  Basically, if it will seal, and hold pressure, put beer in it.

	Drew


-- 
+-----------------------------+	    Andrew Lynch, atl@kpc.com
|    Vote or Shut Up!	      |	Kubota Pacific Computer Inc. Santa Clara, Ca.
|                             |	          (408)748-6345
+-----------------------------+	  Disclaimer: This is me, not them.