HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Antique Plant Availability
From: catharine.vinson@cccbbs.UUCP (Catharine Vinson) 
Date: 28 Jul 92 23:57:00 GMT
Reply-To: catharine.vinson@cccbbs.UUCP (Catharine Vinson) 
Distribution: world
Organization: Cincinnati Computer Connection BBS - Cincinnati, OH - 513-752-8248

To: rec.gardens
From: cvinson@world.com (Catharine Vinson)

      Vince Summers (vsummers@polaris.cv.nrao.edu) asked for catalogues
      devoted to antique flowers, including the rose.
      The following may help:


From _Gardening by Mail: a Source Book_:

   Heirloom Seeds
   PO Box 245
   West Elizabeth, PA  15088-0245
       Offers old-fashioned annnual flower seeds as well as heirloom
       vegetables.  Catalogue available.

   Heirloom Garden Seeds
   PO Box 138
   Guerneville, CA  95446
       Over 200 varieties of culinary herbs and heirloom flowers.
       Catalogue available.

   Heritage Rosarium
   211 Haviland Mill Road
   Brookeville, MD 20833
      Large selection of old garden, modern shrub and species roses
      Catalogue available

   Heritage Rose Gardens
   16831 Mitchell Creek Drive
   Ft. Bragg, CA  95437
      Broad selection of species and old garden roses.  Catalogue.

You also might contact:

   Miriam Wilkins
   Heritage Rose Group
   925 Galvin Drive
   El Cerrito, CA  94530
        Local chapters have meetings and plant sales, etc.  Publishes
        "Heritage Rose Letter".
From: karen@athena.cs.uga.edu (Karen Snetselaar)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Circles of 'shrooms ?
Date: 30 Jul 92 12:58:02 GMT
Organization: University of Georgia, Athens

In article <7690042@hplred.HP.COM> ajeans@hplred.HP.COM (Albert Jeans) writes:
>A couple months ago, I saw a circle of mushrooms about 3 feet in diameter, but
>this was on a lawn only about a year old. Any explanations?

The fairy ring was there before the lawn was seeded or sodded or whatever.
Remember, the mushrooms that you see are supported by fungus mycelium that
may go down several feet.  The fairies know this, of course, and it disorients
them when you cut down trees and shrubbery to make way for featureless
expanses of lawn.  Perhaps you could let them know when your fairy ring
makes mushrooms so they don't miss the party.

Karen
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: ckelly@math.nwu.edu (Christopher Kelly)
Subject: Re: flower bed      
Keywords: bed, bark
Organization: Dept of Math, Northwestern Univ
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1992 18:19:43 GMT

In article <1992Jul30.144827.14054@walter.cray.com>, ncollins@cray.com (Nathan Collins) writes:
> 
> I'm currently re-doing my front flower/shrub bed, putting in yews, azaleas,
> and other plants. I've dug up the dirt and raked it smooth. My question
> is what would be a good ground cover to beautify the bed and require
> little or no maintenance?
> 
-- 
Try pachysandra for a neat, low-maintenance ground cover. It will only
grow a few inches high, and it is nice and green for most of the year.
It is a little difficult to find in the nurseries, though.

--Chris			internet: ckelly@math.nwu.edu
			phone:    (708) 491-8020
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: vsummers@polaris.cv.nrao.edu (Vince Summers)
Subject: Re: Antique Plant Availability
Organization: National Radio Astronomy Observatory
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 16:27:24 GMT

     Thanks!  It is so refreshing when someone specifically answers your
question with know-how!  That's what it's all about, though, isn't it?

Vince Summers
vsummers@polaris.cv.nrao.edu
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Essential herb oils
Date: 26 Jul 92 23:44:15 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <1992Jul26.162628.1618@drycas.club.cc.cmu.edu> kristen@telerama.pgh.pa.us (Kristen McQuillin) writes:
>I grow many medicinal herbs and wonder if anyone knows how to distill
>the essential oils from a plant. While most of the medicinal benefits
>of the plants I grow are available by making infusions, decoctions,
>tinctures and poultices, some of the compounds in the plants are only
>found in the plant oils.

>None of the reference books in my personal library give instructions on
>how to obtain the oils; they just tease me with references about them!

If I recall correctly, one way of doing it is with solvent extraction.
You crush the stuff, soak it in some solvent (alcohol, benzene, or
other), then pour off/strain the liquid, then gently boil off or
evaporate the solvent leaving the oil behind.  It's been quite some time since
I helped a classmate do an oil of cloves extraction...  Like almost 20 years.

This isn't exactly low-tech or "green".  Especially with benzene - *nasty*
stuff.

Old chemistry text books from the 40's thru the 50's are most likely
to have exact recipes for extractions from a couple of different
plants.  Then perhaps the Merck index or a specific index of plant oils
will tell you which solvents to use.

There's probably other ways.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: Lawrence.London@bbs.oit.unc.edu (Lawrence London)
Subject: Re: GARDEN DESIGN SOFTWARE
Organization: Extended Bulletin Board Service
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 02:30:06 GMT

In article <4038.121.uupcb@cccbbs.UUCP> catharine.vinson@cccbbs.UUCP (Catharine Vinson) writes:
>I'd appreciate copies. If it's convenient for you post here or send e-mail. 
I just recently posted it - if you missed it let me know and I'll e-mail.

--
   The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the University of
     North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Campus Office for Information
        Technology, or the Experimental Bulletin Board Service.
           internet:  bbs.oit.unc.edu or 152.2.22.80
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: ramirez@julia.math.ucla.edu (Alice Ramirez)
Subject: special interest plant societies
Organization: UCLA Mathematics Department
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 92 16:14:10 GMT

can anyone provide me with the name/address of any
Carnivorous plant society

the Native Calif. Plant Society

either via email direct or by posting to rec.gardens.

Thanks

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: dmiller@theory.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller)
Subject: Walnut Tree Struck by Lightening
Organization: Laboratory for Computer Science, MIT
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1992 13:20:46 GMT

> 
> Our big walnut tree (~75 years) was struck by lightning
> this morning.  We are wondering what its chances of survival
> are and how soon can we tell?  It entered high in the tree
> at a fork, exiting out the other side of the tree (black
> hole about the size of a donut), blowing out several small
> pieces of bark.  It also came out the other side---you can
> see a line clear down the tree, and see where it went into
> the ground splattering mud up into the leaves of the
> tree.  It was a very loud, single POP.  What a way to wake up.
> Anyway, if anyone has had experience with lightning strikes
> e-mail me.  Thanks.  It also zapped the amp on our tv tower
> since it was nearby!!
> 
> -Nancy S.
> 
> 
A pine tree near us was struck by lightning and has died.  Branches on 
nearby trees also browned and died.  The lightning boils the sap where it 
runs down the tree and also anything else it touches.  My guess is your 
tree will die, or will have this big area where rot can enter and it will 
die later.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

--Jill


--
A. Richard & Jill A. Miller            | Miller Microcomputer Services |
InterNet: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu       | 61 Lake Shore Road            |
Voice: 508/653-6136, 9am-9pm EasternTZ | Natick, MA 01760-2099, USA    |
From: jca@druwa.ATT.COM (Jill C. Arnson)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: My poor begonia
Date: 23 Jul 92 18:58:07 GMT

in article <VSUMMERS.92Jul21151407@polaris.cv.nrao.edu>, vsummers@polaris.cv.nrao.edu (Vince Summers) says:
> In-Reply-To: Tammie.J.Taggart@dartmouth.edu's message of 21 Jul 92 17: 02:38 GMT
> 
> Too much sun, maybe.  They like very little sun.
	Too much sun will be evidenced by dried up brown edges on all the
leaves.  Turning pale can be a sign of too little light.  While they do not
like full sun, bright filtered sun is marvelous to them as evidence of the
happiness of mine under my pruned, thinned out maple tree.  Literaly drooping
over is a common sign of excessive overwatering.  With root rot the only thing
to do is to take cuttings and root them into new plants.

--
jill c. arnson		AT&T Bell Labs, Denver; (303)538-4800
jca@druwa.att.com or att!(druco/drutx)!druwa!jca
*** "When you climb high, remember that the beauty you see is only an
illusion created by G-d to keep your sanity."
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: vsummers@polaris.cv.nrao.edu (Vince Summers)
Subject: Re: Japanese Beetles everywhere
Organization: National Radio Astronomy Observatory
	<111890@muvms3.bitnet> <l78np5INNuu@utkcs2.cs.utk.edu>
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 17:58:05 GMT

     Yes, also, Connie mentions the beetles falling off.  This is a strategy
of the Japanese Beetle anyway, to escape.  A good percentage of the time it
is successful, too.

Vince Summers
vsummers@polaris.cv.nrao.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: vsummers@polaris.cv.nrao.edu (Vince Summers)
Subject: FUNGUS
Organization: National Radio Astronomy Observatory
Distribution: rec.gardens
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1992 14:02:07 GMT

     I realize that the following question is just a little strange for rec
fardens, but frankly, where else?  Can anyone tell me about the fungus
being used to attack the Gypsy Moth, namely Entomophaga maimaiga, which
killed off most of mine?
     Thanks for working on a tough one.

Vince Summers
vsummers@polaris.cv.nrao.edu
From: kj12+@andrew.cmu.edu (Kimberlie Ann Johnson)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: RECOMMEND GARDENING BOOK
Date: 30 Jul 92 15:17:40 GMT
Organization: Doctoral student, English, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA

Can anyone recommend a good book for designing perennial,
low-maintanance flower gardens?

Those that I've bought fail to explain the principles of design very
well and do not include pictures (nor sometimes the common names!) of
the varieties they recommend.  As a new gardener, I need those pictures
(like a guidebook) but I also want help planning, etc.

Any suggeestions?
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: djd@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (david.j.daulton)
Subject: Re: Killing Adjacent Trees
Organization: AT&T
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 03:21:58 GMT

>In article <rglew.24@cs-acad-lan.Lakeheadu.Ca>, rglew@cs-acad-lan.Lakeheadu.Ca (R. J. Glew) writes:
>|> What is the best way to kill a tree just off my property line...
>|> The tree is a 45 foot silver maple, Acer something-or-other.

Check your local municipal codes.  Silver maples are illegal to plant
in many cities, and for good reason.  Ditto for willows, cottonwoods, and
other nuisance (in cities) trees.  (Some years ago a local paper noted that
our state tree [buckeye] was illegal in the state capital [Columbus].)

You local codes probably won't require cutting down an old tree, but
maybe it will help convince your neighbor to take action.  Also, warn your
neighbor that the tree will fill up his/her drain pipes with roots, and will
probably eventually split and fall on some one's house.

Dave Daulton, Columbus, Ohio
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: chasman@athena.mit.edu (David Chasman)
Subject: Circular Dark Patches on the bottom of my tomatoes !
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 15:25:37 GMT

My tomatoes have once again started to get these ugly brownish circular
rot on the bottom.  Last year I was advised to get this spray that you
apply directly to the plant (apparently, once this starts you have to 
bypass the root system and go in through the leaves).  My question is:
what exactly is in this stuff and if I have a chemistry stock-room 
available is it easy to make.  E-mail responses are encouraged, since I
don't spend the whole day reading news - but I am usually near a workstation.

--David
From: swk004@muvms3.bitnet (CONNIE LEINEN, SWK004@MARSHALL, HUNTINGTON, WV)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Japanese Beetles everywhere
Date: 27 Jul 92 13:35:08 GMT
Organization: Marshall University

I, too, have been waging war with Japanese beetles.  Since I am really
loathe to use noxious chemicals, I mixed up a really strong soap
solution (heavy dollop of Ivory liquid soap in a pint sprayer filled
with water).  Well, it works like a charm.  First the little buggers
are sort of paralyzed, then the writhe a bit and then they fall off.

I planted 16 rose bushes this year, and I'm serious about them.
The beetles have been attacking the flowers.  This method has been 
working fine.  It does mar the beauty of the flowers, but my goal
is not so much blooms this year as it is getting the bushes 
established and healthy before winter.  There is some beetle damage
to the bushes, but minimal in light of what I understand other 
people in the area are experiencing.  

This method is labor intensive, but I rather enjoy killing the 
suckers, so it borders on entertainment.  

I've heard some interesting things about garlic water acting as
a deterrant.  Since the soap solution is only an effective killer, 
but doesn't deter, I'd be interested in any formulas for the 
garlic water.  

Connie
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: krogers@javelin.sim.es.com (K. Rogers)
Subject: Where can I get Burr oaks mailorder?
Summary: I need to mailorder a Burr oak
Keywords: burr oak
Reply-To: krogers@javelin.sim.es.com
Organization: Evans & Sutherland Computer Corp., Salt Lake City, Utah
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 17:39:44 GMT

I'd like to plant a Burr oak (Q. macrocarpum, I think) but can't get
one locally.  One nursery said they occasionally get them and they do
reasonably well in our climate, but they didn't have one on hand and
have no plans to get any until at least next spring.  So, where can I
mail order one?  I'd like something in the 4-5' range to plant in late
August.
-- 
Keith Rogers
krogers@javelin.sim.es.com
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: vsummers@polaris.cv.nrao.edu (Vince Summers)
Subject: Re: Japanese Beetles everywhere
Organization: National Radio Astronomy Observatory
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 13:07:38 GMT

     Fred, strangely, I`ve noticed that not all marigolds are attacked.  It
seems to be that they attack the large yellow marigold hybrids but not the 
little run-of-the-mill marigolds.  Perhaps the large ones lack a deterrent,
or possess an attractant.  This may only be coincidental to my yard.  I hand
pick them.  They may largely appear in cycles.  Perhaps you could plant some-
thing sacrificial near the marigolds.

Vince Summers
vsummers@polaris.cv.nrao.edu
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 09:34:40 EDT
From: <KJB6@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: What Happened to my Tomatoes ????

I had some beautiful tomatoe plants last week, and then we got some rain, some
more rain, and yes even some more rain. Some were heavy downpours. My garden
does not have the best drainage, and because the soil is somewhat clayey (sp),
the water has a tendency to lay in puddles until it seeps into the ground. With
so much rain, the ground was saturated. I went out to look at the garden, and 2
of my tomatoe plants were wilting, almost like a frost got them. I do not think
they will survive. I had some green tomatoes on these 2 plants and some blossom
s, but the blossoms are now falling off. The leaves are limp and have no textur
e to them. What happend?

My peppers were pretty much the same way, but they look like they are starting
to come back.

Did the tomatoes receive too much water, and just rott? What can be added in
the fall (or spring), to help the soil, again it is very clayey?

Thanks for any suggestions and reasons why the tomatoes are dying.


Ken Bauer
Pennsylvania State University - Behrend College
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: pharvey@quack.sac.ca.us (Paul Harvey)
Subject: Re: special interest plant societies
Organization: The Duck Pond public unix: +1 408 249 9630, log in as 'guest'.
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 1992 07:35:41 GMT

In article <1992Jul23.161410.10996@math.ucla.edu> 
ramirez@julia.math.ucla.edu (Alice Ramirez) writes:
>can anyone provide me with the name/address of any Carnivorous plant society
>the Native Calif. Plant Society

The California Native Plant Society, (CNPS)
909 12th street, ste 116, sacramento, ca, 95814, (916) 447-CNPS
$25/year, $18/student

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: elel@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (eric.edberg)
Subject: Hardy Lily seeds ?
Organization: AT&T
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1992 15:49:30 GMT
Keywords: Saving to plant next year ??


I transplanted 3 hardy lillies from a torn-down farmhouse.

Two of them were cropped by the local bunnies, but one
is currently flowering.  This one also is producing what I am 
assuming are  black "seed" pods that attach to the stalk where
the leaves connect.

When you break off one of the black seed pods it's construction is
similar to a garlic pod in the way the seeds are grouped together.


Are these individual seeds ?

Can I harvest them ?  When should it be done ?

Is there any storage requirements for the winter ?

Can I plant them next spring indoors to germinate ??

Any help on this topic is appreciated.

eric edberg
att!!iexist!elel
From: spencer@roentgen.RadOnc.Duke.EDU (David P. Spencer)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Japanese Beetles everywhere
Date: 27 Jul 92 21:40:19 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Radiation Oncology, Duke Univ. Medical Center

In article <4578@verdix.verdix.com> jean@verdix.com (Jean C. Jaiswal) writes:
>Just as an additional note about the kerosene method.  We use to use
>this exclusive in North Caroline.  But we put just an inch of kerosene
>in a jar and then added water.  It worked great since kerosene
>floats on water.  Probably you can use less kerosene this way.


Better, yet, use no kerosene at all!
A jar of water with a little dish soap in it works just fine, the soap 
lowers the surface tension, and they sink in.  Unfortunately, they do swim 
around and take a while to drown, but they do not escape.  If they are dead, 
throw them on your compost heap.  We kill dozens every day with this 
technique.  No sign of an impending shortage, though.  :(>

DPSpencer, Chapel Hill, North Carolina
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: vsummers@polaris.cv.nrao.edu (Vince Summers)
Subject: Re: My poor begonia
Organization: National Radio Astronomy Observatory
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 20:14:07 GMT

Too much sun, maybe.  They like very little sun.
Vince Summers
vsummers@polaris.cv.nrao.edu
From: amunn@linus.umd.edu (Alan Munn)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Help! Larvae eating cedars
Date: 26 Jul 92 21:43:34 GMT
Distribution: usa

We have a cedar in our yard which is being completely eaten by dark brown
larvae which make a kind of nest around themselves with bits of cedar
leaf.  They hang from the leaf and poke their heads out and eat.
Already a good part of the tree is completely brown, and the things
seem to be spreading.  What are they and what can I do to get rid of
them?

E-mail replies appreciated.

Alan

--
Alan Munn <amunn@umd5.umd.edu>
Dept. of Linguistics, U. Maryland, College Park MD 20742
From: jhb@calmasd.prime.com (Jim Bishop)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Alternative Commercial Landscaping
Date: 27 Jul 92 23:14:04 GMT
Organization: -

In article <9880030@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM>, duanej@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM 
(Duane Jacobson) writes:
> 
>> My guess is that this office park could maintain a meadow of plants
>> native to the region with lower water and labor costs and that such
>> a meadow would attract free, positive publicity.
> 
> I'm sure that this would work.  However, the time required to pay back their
> investment (i.e., ripping out grass and putting more environmentally-friendly
> landscaping) is pretty long.  I've got to guess that its going to be at least
> ten years.  Plus it's not an investment that they can sell if their cash
> flow sours in the future.  I just can't imagine that many corporations have
> the long-view perspective to make changes like this.

As I recall when this tread started, it was about an office park with
a huge lawn on the east bay in Northern California.  Wouldn't a native
landscape in this area be annual grass with a few oak trees?  This
time of year it would be very dry and fire hazard.  The fire code
would probably require that dry brush be removed from around any
structure.

I think what is being proposed here, isn't a native landscape, but one
that would use less water and maybe have alot of near-native plants.  
(Near-native meaning they are from near by area, but not necessarily
native to the east bay.)  It should only take 3 or so years to
establish a xeroscape.  Around here (Southern California) they plant
in the fall and water for a couple of years to get it established. 
(However, getting oaks going is very difficult.)

> Anybody out there have any real success stories to share?

I saw an article (I forget where) about HP in Palo Alto using infrared
aerial photographs to optimize their water used and to determine which
plants were using the most water.  Does anyone at HP know more about
this?

Also, Sunset Magazine in Menlo Park removed a large portion of their
lawn over the last several years.  They had several articles in the
magazine about it.  I'm sure the articles are still available through
Sunset.

Jim

P.S.  I bike road through Camp Pendleton this weekend.  On the freeway
they have this landscaped sign that says; "Camp Pendleton, preserving
California's resources", or something like that.  Anyway we rode by
acres of anise, castor bean, eucalyptus, pampas grass and tamarisk--
all non-natives.  Also a couple of hills were burned up during last
week's maneuvers.  I guess they meant preserving in a military sense.
From: cigno@sgi.com (Kevin Walsh)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Fiberglass Fencing Info
Date: 30 Jul 92 18:18:50 GMT
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc.

In article <3280004@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM> laurie@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (Laurie Schaaf) writes:
...
>         F i b e r g l a s s   F e n c i n g . . . . . . . . . .
>         =======================================================
>
  ...
>Fiberglass Fencing can be painted any color you can think of by simply
>applying a coat of exterior grade latex paint after installation.
>
>	*  100% Round Fiberglass
>	*  No Heat Retention
>	*  No Rotting or Rusting
>	*  Virtually Maintenance Free
>	*  Competitively Priced
>	*  3-4-5 Rail Available
>	*  Safe with Livestock
>	*  Pain With Exterior Grade Latex
>	*  Easily Repaired
>	*  Corner Post Available in Various Diameters 
>	*  Rails Available From Approximately 2 Inches
>           in Diameter to 4 Inches in Diameter
>	*  Installation Included

	Has anybody talked about delamination?  It is an issue in
	fiberglass boats.  There are things you can do to prevent 
	it, but it is still something you want to keep an eye on.

	Also, how degradable or biodegradable is the stuff?  The 
	glass should be no problem, but I am not sure about the 
	resins.  After all, the fence won't last forever (not that 
	lasting for ever is a good thing).  

--
------
"I've always thought of Boston traffic as Brownian motion with
evil intent."  -- Don Coolidge coolidge@speaker.sgi.com
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Japanese Beetles everywhere
From: Robert Chambers <RMCCU@CUNYVM.BITNET>
Date: Monday, 27 Jul 1992 11:28:01 EDT
Organization: City University of New York/ University Computer Center

In article <1992Jul24.164431.2755@compu.com>, fr@compu.com (Fred Rump from home)
says:
>
>I have three traps now and two are half full. I wonder what I should do with
>them - the trash?

Na... thats a waste!  First, make sure they're not able to fly away by
either drowning them in a bucket of water, or stunning them by whacking
the bag against something solid.  Then poke a hole in your steaming
compost heap and pour the bug-oids into it... mash them down and cover
them over...  Recycle back what they *stole* from you!

I've even washed out the bag and used it again, but for at most 2-3
times, since it becomes less slippery and they can sometimes climb back
out of it.

>Fred

Robert