HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.equestrian


Well, it seems that the students and other newbies are back on
the net.  So it's time to post the FAQ (frequently asked questions)
again.  

Since I'm at HP, where the net is closed, you cannot ftp the faq.
I'll post it infrequently.  Whenever the same old questions pop up
again.  

If you have articles you'd like to add, please send me mail or
post them.  I don't have a lot of time to write them myself, so
I do ask that you write them, or at least write a base note and
let others on the net add to the article.

Wendy



                      \|/
            /\        -O-         
           /**\       /|\         
          /****\   /\             
         /      \ /**\                      
        /  /\    /    \        /\    /\  /\      /\            /\/\/\  /\
       /  /  \  /      \      /  \/\/  \/  \  /\/  \/\  /\  /\/ / /  \/  \  
      /  /    \/ /\     \    /    \ \  /    \/ /   /  \/  \/  \  /    \   \     
     /  /      \/  \/\   \  /      \    /   /    \
  __/__/_______/___/__\___\__________________________________________________

  Wendy Milner                     HPDesk:   wendy_milner@hp4000
  UTD Product Support Engineer     HP-UX:    wendy@hpfcmr
  Mail Stop 46                     Telnet:   229-2182
  3404 E. Harmony Rd.              AT&T:     (303) 229-2182
  Fort Collins, CO, 80525          FAX:      229-4720
From: shonette@master.CNA.TEK.COM (Shonette Rogers)
Newsgroups: rec.equestrian
Subject: Re: help with research
Date: 3 Sep 92 16:06:20 GMT
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Beaverton,  OR.

In article <1992Sep2.193540.3308@tamsun.tamu.edu> erkert@scan2.tamu.edu writes:
>Howdy y'all,
 >
> I was wondering if y'all 
>could help with research for a term paper.  The subject is
>the early development of the American Quarter Horse.
>

Hi Ron,

I did a term paper about this subject as well when I was in
High School.  I believe I got some information from the
encyclopedia but most of my info came from the AQHA headquarters
in Amarillo.  They were very responsive to my letter requesting
this info.  I don't have the address here but I can get it for
you if you want (let me know).  They also will send you big 
posters with QHs doing all sorts of things from cutting to
jumping, etc.  Also, a good reference is the "rule book" that
they have (tells you what the standards are, how to register
the horse, whether your horse CAN be registered--because of
coloration--etc.)

Good luck (and great subject!) :-)

Not at all biased,

Shonette Rogers
  and Miss Lady Linton (QH from Texas!)
Newsgroups: rec.equestrian
From: sharono@ravel.udel.edu (Sharon Orlowsky)
Subject: ANYBODY KNOW LEONARD HUFFMAN (Breyer models)???
Organization: University of Delaware
Distribution: us
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 16:16:07 GMT

Maybe somebody can help me out.  I need the address of Leonard Huffman.
He's a dealer for Breyer model horses, and I think he lives in 
Colorado.  I've always had good experiences with him, but I recently
ordered a model which never showed up in the mail.  I've lost the
address, so if anyone has it, I'd be grateful!  Thanks.

Sharon Orlowsky (sharono@brahms.udel.edu)
124 Kenmark Rd.
Newark, DE 19713-3918






Newsgroups: rec.equestrian
From: aviator@athena.mit.edu (Joakim Karlsson)
Subject: Tennesee Walkers/Gaited Horses
Organization: Flight Transportation Associates, Cambridge, MA
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 23:49:31 GMT

I was wondering what people's opinions on gaited horses might be,
particularly Tennesee Walkers.  I have a rather bouncy (at the trot)
half Arab and have been struck by the idea that "Gee - wouldn't it be
great to have TWO horses?!  And one of them smoothsmoothsmooth...sigh"
There are two TW's at the stable where my horse is and one of them
isn't that fabulous to ride, she isn't always consistant in her smoothness
but this other one is supposed to be like the first walker on her
good days, and that is very nice.  And what about Paso Finos/Peruvian
Pasos?  Are they outrageously expensive?  What might one expect to pay
for a well mannered 5-12 yr old registered Tennesee Walker in the N.E.
area?  Do they have any special shoeing considerations?

Any advice or ideas welcomed!

Karen Karlsson
--
----
Karen Karlsson on Joakim Karlsson's account
aviator@athena.mit.edu
----
Newsgroups: rec.equestrian
From: bmc@mayo.edu (Bruce Cameron)
Subject: Re: Wintec trees
Organization: Mayo Foundation, Rochester MN. Campus
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 92 13:45:02 GMT

In article <1992Aug25.230752.6163@morrow.stanford.edu>, GC.SUL@forsythe.stanford.edu (Sullivan) writes:
|> Thanks for all the info on Wintec trees.  I have a questions to
|> those who have done distance in them-do you very carefully check
|> your horse's back (or does the vet do it) after long rides?  My main
|> concern is how evenly the tree distributes weight.
|>

I check my horse's back when and where I can (typically at the vet checks),
and for the rides I've been on, a vet checks the horses back at the
start and the finish. I've not noticed a problem with weight distribution.
 


-- 
--Bruce

"Truth is ultimately a philosophical concept,...,
 and standards of truth are adequate for practical
 purposes if they are substantially more reliable 
 then the system undergoing evaluation"
				C. E. Metz
---------------------------------------------------
bmc@mayo.edu	(507) 284-3288	fax: (507) 284-9623
Mayo Foundation, 200 1st St SW,	Rochester MN 55905
---------------------------------------------------
#include <std/disclaimer>             ARS -- WD9CKW
From: tracy@scoraz.resp-sci.arizona.edu (Tracy Scheinkman)
Newsgroups: rec.equestrian
Subject: re: need help with stubborn horse
Date: 26 Aug 92 21:54:43 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Arizona, Tucson, AZ

In Article 8479 pallas@cephalo.neusc.bcm.tmc.edu (Sarah Pallas)

>actually so green that he can't balance himself very well to stop.
>He stops well when I shift my weight or if I say whoa, but if I
>use the reins, he just leans hard on them and puts his nose down so
>that he really CAN'T stop very easily.  He also has a hard time

	Sounds like he may at one time have been ridden by someone
with hard hands or in a bit he didn't like.

>carrying himself at the canter, he likes me to hold him up with the
>reins. He's getting much better about that, since I now refuse to hold
>him up!  Does anyone have more advice about getting these two horses
>(the 3 and the 10 year old) to balance back at the halt?  I've tried
>backing a few steps after a halt, and that seems to be helping a bit.
>He's not a stubborn horse as far as I can tell after riding him 4
>times.  Just uneducated.

>Sarah Pallas

	Try giving him the signal to transition down from the canter
to the trot by using a gentle give and take with the reins so that the 
second he begins to down transition you give to him so he must hold himself
up at the down transition.  At that point he will probably try to
lean on your hands for balance, let him do 3 steps of trot then ask
him to transition up to the canter again.  The transition up to the
canter will help him to become lighter.  By gradually doing more of
these canter-trot-canter transitions on a light rein you will begin
to build the muscles he needs to do the down transition to the halt
better.  But a canter-halt transition is just too much for the horse
at this stage so try building first with the canter-trot-canter
exercise.  Also work up and down hills on a light rein when you
go trail riding, asking the horse to walk up and walk down, no trotting
as that prevents them from building the muscles they need.  Finally,
when you have done a lot of this kind of work and your canter-trot
transitions are getting better you can try a walk-canter transition.
This requires the horse to get their hind end under them in order to
start off directly into the canter, usually they are very balanced
for the first several strides and then gradually get heavy on the
forehand, at that point ask for the down transition to the trot.
When the horse can do this well and hold the canter without falling
onto the forehand then you can begin to ask for walk-canter-walk
transitions.  After that it will be pretty easy to get the canter-halt
transition you are looking for.

				Tracy and everybody 
Newsgroups: rec.equestrian
From: deblev@nimoy.ipac.caltech.edu (Debbie Levine)
Subject: Re: need help with stubborn horse
Keywords: help
Organization: California Institute of Technology
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 00:39:26 GMT

In article <1992Aug20.222051.29855@infonode.ingr.com> blythedr@infonode.ingr.com (Dennis Blythe) writes:
>  I have a 3 year old mare that once she gets warmed up she is hard to stop.
>I only have this problem at a canter. It usually takes 3 attemps to get her to 
>finally stop... Or could this be because she is so young.

I was hoping someone with more experience with baby-babies would respond
to this one, but...  

3 is very young indeed.  Did a professional trainer start this filly or
did you?  Does she know voice commands?  Do you think she understands 
your aid to stop, or do you think she has just learned to be a little
disobedient?  With a young horse I'd encourage you to work with a 
good trainer.

In general, if you want to train a horse to respond to a lighter aid,
it is most effective to give the light aid, then immediately back it
up with the BIG GUNS if you don't get a response.  You want to make
sure you aren't going to do any physical damage, but you don't want
to train her to ignore successively more extreme cues until she 
ignores you totally.  Rather than go to a stronger bit I would:

Plan A)  If she will stop on "whoa" try giving the light aid followed
by the "whoa".  If she doesn't quite "get it" this may help.  You
can teach the voice command on the lounge.

Plan B)  If she is being disobediant, you can try giving a light cue
then giving a series of good sharp checks immmediately afterwards.
You don't want to HURT her, but you want her to get the message that
you are SERIOUS about this.  By the way, a series of give-and-take
pulls is far more effective than a single strong pull.  

Also, you probably should not expect an immediate response from a horse
this young and green.  It takes time for them to learn to balance 
properly with a rider and if she is running "downhill" at all, she
may need work to improve her balance before she CAN respond faster.

>  Also she gets in these moods periodicly when she refuses to pick up her feet
>to be cleaned. I have noticed she acts up more often after the ferrier has shod
>her. Does anyone know of a trick to this? 

Watch what your shoer is doing -- she may be reacting to unpleasant treatment
by your farrier.  If so, switch shoers.

However, don't allow her to get away with this.  This is another instance
in which a quick, sharp correction will reinforce good behavior with a
minimum of fuss, whereas a half-hearted escalation may only make the
situation increasingly worse.  If she doesn't pick up her foot
when you pinch the tendons at the back of the foot, use your weight to
push her weight onto the opposite leg and yell "Hey!" or some such
while continuing to ask her to pick it up.

Here again a good trainer could be a great help.

  Good luck,
  Debbie
  deblev@ipac.caltech.edu
From: wendy@hpfcmgw.FC.HP.COM (Wendy Milner)
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 21:52:44 GMT
Subject: Re: Different Breeds ($$$) ?
Organization: HP Fort Collins, CO
Newsgroups: rec.equestrian

In rec.equestrian, locke@4ccvw54.scg.hac.com (Anne Locke) writes:

    My 
    question is how expensive are these different breeds?  I pick up a copy
    of Horse Illustrated from time to time as well as check the classified
    ads to try to get some idea of cost.  It appears that some breeds (for
    example Paso Finos) are always *really* expensive.

Not only do prices fluctuate, but the price within the breed varies
wildly.  For an Arab you can expect to pay from $200 to $thousands.
A few years ago some one on the net offered her Peruvian Pasos free
to someone who could care for them.  Also note that anything advertised
in a national magazine will be 10 times the price of a horse of equal
quality in your local area.

Wendy
From: deblev@nimoy.ipac.caltech.edu (Debbie Levine)
Newsgroups: rec.equestrian
Subject: Re: Leasing new horse and need help
Date: 2 Sep 92 15:46:23 GMT
Organization: California Institute of Technology

In article <1992Aug29.003011.19412@mr.med.ge.com> euler@snail.med.ge.com (Vicki Euler mfg 4-6041) writes:
>I am starting to lease a horse.  She is a 5 year old TB and as green as the
>hills.  I have been riding for two years off and on (in between knee surgeries)
>and now I am leasing my first horse.  I have all of my tack and now I need help
>in the general care...

Is this a full lease?  Are you solely responsible for this horse or just
for the before and after riding bit?  If you are on your own, you need
a knowledgeable local friend or trainer as well as reference material,
in my opinion.  There are too many things that can go wrong!

I'd suggest subscribing to a magazine, I like "Horseplay" and "Practical
Horseman" and "Equs" is also good.

"Practical Horseman's Book of Horsekeeping" is a good reference as is
"Horse of Your Own" and the German Equestrian Federation's "Book of
Horsekeeping" (I think).  The Pony Club Manual is another really excellant
reference.  

Before you ride the most important things are to get any dirt off the
back, head and girth areas so the skin isn't irritated and to
pick out the feet.  After riding, once the horse is cooled off,
you need to remove any sweat by either hosing, spongeing or brushing
depending upon amount of sweat and the weather.  As someone else
pointed out, beware of putting cold water on the hindquarters if the
horse is still warm, it can cause or worsen tying-up.  You will also
need to pick the feet again.  If it is cold and the horse's back is 
steaming or you have hosed or sponged, you will need to put a cooler
or string sheet on to prevent chilling until the horse is completely
cool and dry.

You may also need to worry about cleaning tack!  I generally remove
mud and wipe off the bit on a daily basis, and do a more thorough
cleaning as schedule allows.  I used to saddle soap daily, but...

Anyway, good luck, and enjoy your lease!

      Debbie
      deblev@ipac.caltech.edu
From: pazzani@pan.ics.uci.edu (Michael Pazzani)
Subject: Horse Cookies
Newsgroups: rec.equestrian
Reply-To: pazzani@ics.uci.edu (Michael Pazzani)
Organization: Univ. of Calif., Irvine, Info. & Computer Sci. Dept.
Date: 2 Sep 92 20:28:29 GMT

In the feed store today, we bought a 50 pound bag of 4-way grain and
a 12 ounce bag of "Horse Cookies".  I couldn't help but notice that
the grain and the cookies had nearly the same ingredients, but the
12 ounce bag was more expensive than the 50 pound bag.

Does anyone have a recipe for making these sort of horse treats?

Thanks
Mike Pazzani
pazzani@ics.uci.edu

From: kyle@hpspdla.spd.HP.COM (Kyle Karnosh)
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 17:21:15 GMT
Subject: Re: Fescue
Organization: HP Stanford Park - Palo Alto, CA
Newsgroups: rec.equestrian



Ruth writes:

>I thought that fescue was toxic, especially to pregnant mares.  Could
>someone please verify this or correct me?  Otherwise, I'll write a 
>letter to the editor of this local newspaper which is otherwise
>respected and much read in an agricultural area.
>
>Ruth
>----------

Hi Ruth,

	My understanding is that the fescue itself is fine for horses,
but there is a fungus that commonly grows on fescue that causes a lot of
problems for pregnant and nursing mares ( Tough placentas that the foals
can't break, no milk, etc.). I believe there that fescue seed that has
been specially treated to be fungus free is available and supposedly
eliminates the problem. Any one else have more info?


Kyle Karnosh
Con Brio Farms
Quality Warmblood Sporthorses
Gilroy, CA
From: wendy@hpfcmgw.FC.HP.COM (Wendy Milner)
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 16:47:09 GMT
Subject: Re: Leasing new horse and need help
Organization: HP Fort Collins, CO
Newsgroups: rec.equestrian


Interesting questions.  I think we all do what we do without
thinking about it.  Also many of your questions will depend
on what you plan to do, where you live and ride, and a lot
on the horse.  IE. there is no difinitive answer.

Minimal care - brush and pick before and after you ride.

To make a coat real shinny you need to brush every day.
Baths depend on the horse.  I rarely give baths.  Then again,
I don't show.  Once in the spring is usually enough.  I do
brush and make sure all the dirt and sweat is off.  During
hot weather (a rarity this summer), I sometimes hose off
the horse after a ride.  ***DO NOT RUN COLD WATER ON A HOT HORSE**

Hoof dressing is for hooves that are dry.  If the horse's 
hooves are fine without the dressing, there is no need for it.
Ask the farrier.  He can tell you exactly how dry your horse's
hooves are.  If you notice cracking, you have dry hooves.  I
keep dressing around.  There are times when my horses' hooves
dry out.  There are other times when the horses' hooves stay
moist.

How can you tell what to do?  Watch.  Buy yourself a soda and
sit around the grooming area.  What is everyone doing?  
Go to a show.  See the extra effort people put in for grooming
for a show.  Just hang out.

Since I've been loafing for the last year, I do the minimal care
necessary to keep my horses healthy.  They are clean, free of
pests and fungus (since this has been a topic recently), they
are happy if occasionally muddy.  On the days when I want to
be close without riding, I'll spend an hour just grooming.  Making
sure their tails are perfect, no tangles, no burrs, just the right
length.  Making sure every hair on their faces lay just perfect.
I'll apply hoof dressing to shine their hooves.  Then I'll take a
picture.  But like last night when I wanted a quick ride, I apply
a quick brush, check the feet, throw a blanket on, and ride across
the hills.  

Wendy
From: hannah@pomponio.ai.sri.com (Marsha Jo Hannah)
Newsgroups: rec.equestrian
Subject: Re: Horse GIF image follows (part 1)
Date: 1 Sep 92 20:40:30 GMT
	<BttCMJ.BvC@news.cso.uiuc.edu>
Distribution: usa
Organization: SRI International, Menlo Park, CA
In-reply-to: gmk@pegasos.ccsr.uiuc.edu's message of 30 Aug 92 20:23:04 GMT

In article <BttCMJ.BvC@news.cso.uiuc.edu> gmk@pegasos.ccsr.uiuc.edu (Gottfried Mayer-Kress) writes:

   In article <1992Aug29.175919.6639@zia.aoc.nrao.edu> sbeland@zia.aoc.nrao.edu  
   (Stephane Beland) writes:
   > Sorry for the previous posting - forgot to uuencode the image!!
   > So here it is again split in two.
   > Enjoy!
   > 
   > 
   nice picture, where was it taken? tell us more about the horse, 
   from the distance it looks like an Arab to me ...
   --
   Gottfried Mayer-Kress

How about if, in the future, folks post images to alt.binaries, and
just post a message here that points to the binaries?  Those huge
files gave our newsreader indigestion for a couple of days, until the
administrator deleted them.  My understanding is that this forum was
designed for relatively short text messages, not huge binary files.

Marsha Jo Hannah		Murphy must have been a horseman--
La Honda, CA			anything that can go wrong, will!
Newsgroups: rec.equestrian
From: Ruth Vale <rmvale@watnow.uwaterloo.ca>
Subject: Fescue
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 12:57:25 GMT


In a short article on suitable pasture for a horse paddock, written by
a "farm management specialist", I found this:

...There are several species of grasses and legumes which are suitable [to
provide the horses with adequate footing].  On a well-drained soil a
combination of tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass and white clover works
                    ^^^^^^
well...Other combinations...can include timothy and creeping red fescue.
                                                                 ^^^^^^

I thought that fescue was toxic, especially to pregnant mares.  Could
someone please verify this or correct me?  Otherwise, I'll write a 
letter to the editor of this local newspaper which is otherwise
respected and much read in an agricultural area.

Ruth
Newsgroups: rec.equestrian
From: jhelms@cns.neusc.bcm.tmc.edu (Jill Helms)
Newsgroups: rec.equestrian
Subject: HELP!  My horse has a lump...
Date: 31 Aug 1992 14:59:40 GMT
Reply-To: jhelms@cns.neusc.bcm.tmc.edu (Jill Helms)
Organization: Baylor College of Medicine, Houston, Tx
Originator: jhelms@cns.neusc.bcm.tmc.edu


I'm wondering if I can get some much-needed advice about a lump I've noticed on
my horses' neck.

It is located just at the throatlatch (I think that's the right term: at the junction
between the horses' angle of the mandible and his neck).  It feels unilateral, and
is approximately 2 cm x 2 cm.  It is firm and movable (not fixed to underlying bone,
for instance).  It does not appear to be sensitive to palpation, but then he is  a
very calm horse and I may not be palpating it hard enough to elicit a response.  He
has not had any shots lately (although he was paste-wormed almost 5 days ago with
no apparent ill effects).  He is not off his feed, and he seems lively and eager 
when I am riding him.  Stephanie (the trainer) noticed it after we were in a lesson
and asked me about it, so it is not extremely obvious (at least it wasn't to me).

Does anyone have any experience with lumps like this?  I'm ready to jump out of my
skin I'm so nervous about this, with one hand on the phone to call the vet...  I'd
appreciate any advice anyone can give!

Jill and Bliss

Newsgroups: rec.equestrian
From: karlm@sequent.com (Karl Maerz)
Subject: Horse GIFs (and GIF images in general)
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems Inc.
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 92 19:46:50 GMT

hannah@pomponio.ai.sri.com (Marsha Jo Hannah) writes:
>
>How about if, in the future, folks post images to alt.binaries, and
>just post a message here that points to the binaries?  Those huge
>files gave our newsreader indigestion for a couple of days, until the
>administrator deleted them.  My understanding is that this forum was
>designed for relatively short text messages, not huge binary files.
>

Excellent suggestion, Marsha.

There are a handfull of alt.binaries.pictures.* groups which are
the appropriate place to post bit map files, etc.  These groups
were formed because long strings (ie, Part 25 of 10zillion) were
clogging up the works in the discussion groups.  If your site
doesn't carry any of the alt.binaries.* groups, its because your
administrator doesn't want to deal with (or the owners of the
system don't want to foot the bill for) the volume either.  In
that case, you can email the originating party and ask them to
email the picture to you directly.

Regards,
Karl Maerz
karlm@sequent.com
From: cbrand@cac.washington.edu (Carol Brand)
Newsgroups: rec.equestrian
Subject: Re: misc.fitness
Date: 28 Aug 92 00:44:10 GMT
Organization: UW Networks and Distributed Computing

In article <1992Aug27.034413.4275@ads.com> jtn@ADS.COM (John T. Nelson) writes:

>Are there mailing list forms for this newsgroup?  For example,
>rec.music.synth is gatewayed to a mailing list called "Synth-L".
>I'm wondering if this group has a similar mechanism for those of us
>who do not receive the groups on our machines.
>
>- Hacker
>--
>Dark Hacker				hacker@black-silicon.mclean.va.us
>



Yes, there is a bitnet Listserv group that deals with horses.  It is
called EQUINE-L. By the way, you can get a complete list of all of the
Listservs by sending e-mail to listserv%bitnic.bitnet@cunyvm.cuny.edu.
In the message field type: 

list global


A word of warning though, this is a very active listserv group!

-CAROL
Newsgroups: rec.equestrian