HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks)
Subject: Re: Coasting with auto tranny's...
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 17:19:11 GMT

In article <VBREAULT.92Nov4100112@rinhp750.gmr.com> vbreault@rinhp750.gmr.com (Val Breault) writes:
>In article <Bx6HyI.FLw@uxa.ecn.bgu.edu> gsu0001@uxa.ecn.bgu.edu (Michael Linden) writes:
>
>     I am interested in finding out exactly what kind of
>   damage/excessive-wear can be caused by putting an automatic transmission
>   in neutral to coast up to stop signs/lights and while not moving. 
>
>Additional wear will be incurred while disengaging and reengaging the
>low speed clutches.  These are normally engaged when the transmission is 
>put in "drive" and remain engaged until it is put into neutral, park or
>reverse.
>
Agreed. All these parts, from the shift valves to servos to clutches/bands
are cycling on and off unneccesarily. Automatics are designed to stay in 
gear when stopped at a light, so leave 'em in gear. You're not 
accomplishing anything useful with this endless shifting.

>Lubrication and cooling continue regardless of which gear the transmission
>is in, so long as the engine is running.

True. The transmission oil pump is connected to the flywheel end of the 
tranny, at the torque converter output.  (Older trannys often had a second
pump on the output shaft, which allowed you to push start the car).
As long as the engine's running, you've got oil pressure.
>
>     The reason I am asking about this is because my Mom has noticed that
>   it takes much less braking effort to stop her car while in neutral as
>   opposed to drive -- she feels she is saving the brakes.

This is false economy. Brakes vs. transmission overhaul - no comparison.
>
>Brakes are easily and inexpensively replaced.   I do not believe that
>she has made the best choice.
>
>This is similar to some folks practice of downshifting a standard 
>transmission to save brakes.  Clutches are a bit more difficult and
>expensive to replace as well.
>
This point needs a bit of clarification. Downshifting before going down
steep hills is useful, and often essential for vehicle control (not to
mention avoiding burning up the brakes). Downshifting all the way through
the gears to come to a stop on level ground is a good way to wear out
your clutch and synchros unneccesarily. Once again, false economy.
 
Ted Brooks
 ______________________________________________________________________
| Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are my own, and do not reflect    |
| those of my employer. Advice is free, but you get what you pay for.  |
|                               ________                               |
|                         _____|  1955  |_______                       |
|                        /      Chevrolet      /                       |
|                       /______  BelAir  _____/                        |
|                              |________|                              |
|______________________________________________________________________|
From: bobv@spike.Jpl.Nasa.Gov (Bob von Buelow)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Firewall problems, '57 Chevy
Date: 10 Nov 92 18:40:01 GMT
Article-I.D.: elroy.1992Nov10.184001.25495
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory, Pasadena, CA

Well, maybe this is the place to ask.  I checked the other auto related
newsgroups and none of them seemed appropriate, or got no replies.

'57 Chevy 210.  Had it about 2 years after taking it off the hands of my
teen aged son who decided he really needed a 4x4, and after he broke the
original 283.  He replace the 283 with a 350 from a 75 Impala and added
an electronic ignition.

Problem: the ignition is HUGE and rubs against the firewall.  Basically it
has run fine for the time I've had it, but the last mechanic that did a 
tune up told me it was arcing thru to the firewall on 1 of the sparkplug
wires.  Anybody tell me what the standard solutions to this are.  350
swaps into '57 must be very common.

Future projects: replace the Powerglide with a TH350
                 change intake manifold and carb (2bbl now) to ???
                    (has to be CA legal, aren't there some after 
                     market FI systems that are CA legal?)
                 exhaust headers

Suggestions and comments PLEASE.  I am not necessarily a mechanic but can
  handle some simple stuff like replace fuel pump or starter.

Thanks,

--
Bob von Buelow             Mars Observer Planning and Sequencing Element
bobv@spike.jpl.nasa.gov          - standard disclaimers apply -
From: pt1e+@andrew.cmu.edu (Paul M Taylor)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Emissions/PA
Date: 10 Nov 92 17:59:50 GMT
Organization: Sophomore, H&SS general, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA

Anybody know the specifics about the new emissions law passed. 
Supposedly will be instituted by 1996 with 150 or so state run stations
to chck every car in PA every two years. They said 90% of people will
only have to drive 15 minutes to a station. ??? If your car doesn't pass
they want you to spend up to $450 to try to make it pass, if it doesn't
pass then you get a waiver for two years and are allowed to drive the
car anyway.  Anybody know about this new law??

Paul
From: yehavi@vms.huji.ac.il
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Pinking - too reach or lean mixture?
Date: 12 Nov 92 14:23:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: The Hebrew University of Jerusalem

  After doing a carburrator cleanup at a garage my car started pinking
very heavily. Since the ignition timing was not changed I suspect that the
carb is mal-adjusted. Before I tamper with it: Can pinking be caused by
over-reach or over-lean mixture? I guess that the mal-adjustment is marginal
as there is no smoke from the exauhst.
                                                Thanks, __Yehavi:
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Wanted: 1968 Chevelle SS
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 11 Nov 92 18:18:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> A friend of mine has been looking for a 68 SS for a long time
-> and I told him that I would see if any one on the newsnet
-> knew of one.  Any and all help in this matter would be great.

 I don't know of one for sale, but I do want to caution you:  The local
Chevy dealer made probably hundreds of Chevelle SSs during the sixties.
They took standard Chevelles and added the SS fender, grille, and tail
emblems at the body shop, then sold them for SS prices to people who
didn't know any better.  The real SS package varied from year to year,
so even people who should have known better were taken in.

 The earlier packages were more comprehensive than the later ones, which
finally became just decal packs.  Depending on the year, the hood is
different, positrac is standard, four speed is standard (early only),
interior was different (some had "SS" molded into the vinyl), swaybars
were standard, dual exhausts were standard.
                                                       
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: asdch@acad2.alaska.edu
Subject: Help. Wheel-hop in four-by mode.
Organization: University of Alaska
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 18:17:58 GMT

My truck gets this nasty wheel hop in four wheel drive when I try to drive
in dry sand and certain types of snow.  When I let off the throttle, the 
shaking stops.  It is a pretty hideous feeling in this truck-it feels liks
the axles are going to fall out, or break.  The truck is an '81 Chevy 3/4 ton
with standard/stock size tires, the stock suspension consists of a full-
floating 10-bolt front-end, a 14-bolt (full floater also?) rear-end, and
the stock whimpy stock NP 208 sends power to them both.  The engine is a 350.
	The question is what can I do to fix it/make the wheel hop go away
without spending big bucks?  And If I ignore the shaking while off-roading,
will I destroy the truck?  Thanks in advance for any help/suggestions.  
E-mail or post.  Dave.
From: harmons@.WV.TEK.COM (Harmon Sommer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: new required dyno emissions tests / Re: New Gasoline Ripoff
Date: 12 Nov 92 19:46:09 GMT
Article-I.D.: shaman.2143

Reply-To: harmons@mithril.WV.TEK.COM (Harmon Sommer)
Followup-To: 
Distribution: 
Organization: /usr/ens/etc/organization
Keywords: 


>                        Peltier was a cool dude!!

He had his hot side.
From: orscholz@immd4.informatik.uni-erlangen.de (Oliver Scholz (Turo - Backstage))
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Help: Where's fuel filter on V6 Fiero?
Summary: Please help me find fuel filter on a V6 Fiero...
Date: 12 Nov 92 13:08:26 GMT
Organization: CSD., University of Erlangen, Germany

Hi!

I am looking for the fuel filter on a '87 Fiero, and I can't seem to find it.
It's not where the shop manual says it's supposed to be.
Maybe the net.wisdom can help me here... Anybody know where it is located?

Help is much appreciated!

Thanks,

-Oliver

-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Oliver Scholz                                                         DG4NEM
Graduate Student of Computer Sciences at the University of Erlangen, Germany
"You're killing me, Peg!"  "Oh, shut up, Al, like I care..."
From: harmons@.WV.TEK.COM (Harmon Sommer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Rear Brakes locking
Keywords: BMW BRAKES LOCKING
Date: 6 Nov 92 20:16:14 GMT
Reply-To: harmons@mithril.WV.TEK.COM (Harmon Sommer)
Organization: /usr/ens/etc/organization

>
>On my 1984 BMW 318i, the rear brakes lock up under any emergency manouver.  
>Even when the road is dry.  I have brand new tires and have done the 

Some rear brakes use different shoes between the front of the axle assembly
and the back of the axle assembly. The front (leading) shoe will have less of
the metal shoe covered with friction material. The reason is that the
leading shoes tend to "self servo" or "self energize" and so the friction
material is cut back to reduce this tendency. If the shoes are pivoted at the
bottom then this cut back area would be at the top.

Make sure you are using the proper shoes; look at a factory manual;
make sure that, if the front and rear shoes on the axle are different,
that you have them in the proper location.

If the shoes  are other than BMW factory replacements there may be a problem
with the lining material.

Chrysler used to have  heavier retraction springs on the the leading shoe.
This was to help overcome the self servo action. Check that if BMW uses 
two retractors they are in the right locations.

Check owners manual, BMW may have a policy that they will give you a copy
of all factory problem bulletins if you call some magic 1-800 number.
They would be interesting reading.
From: bjy@med.unc.edu (Brian J. Young)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Saab: shocks and squealing brakes
Date: 10 Nov 92 20:22:57 GMT
Article-I.D.: samba.1992Nov10.202257.3514
Distribution: usa
Organization: UNC-CH School of Medicine
Originator: bjy@addor

I am in the market for shocks for my 1987 Saab 900.  The car is mainly
used as a commuter and on trips so exotic performance shocks are not
necessary.  Anyone have any suggestions?

Also, I replaced the rotors and pads recently with geniune Saab parts. 
However, soon after they were installed, the brakes started squealing and
show no sign of letting up.  They squeal only as the car is coming to a
stop, i.e., from about 15 mph to 0 mph.  Any ideas as to how to get rid of
this extremely annoying occurrence?

Many thanks,
Brian Young
From: lihan@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Bruce G. Bostwick)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Break-in period
Date: 7 Nov 92 18:02:40 GMT
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin, Austin TX

In article <1992Nov5.070214.24324@mr.med.ge.com> hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987) writes:
>Mark Wayne Blunier (mwbg9715@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu) wrote:
>: dan@larry.sal.wisc.edu (Dan Roehre) writes:
>: 
>: No it is not.  When the eninge is rebuilt a can of 'special oil' is needed.
>: This helps the engine break in properly.  A new engine has it added.
>: The warrany that GM gives with its Goodwrench engines is voided if you
>: don't add the special oil.  My experience with breaking in engines seems
>: to be that the original oil should be used to at least what is recomended
>: by the manufacturers (of a new engine).  Use regular oil for breakin, but
>: can use synthetic afterwords if desired.  Engines that do not have the 
>: break in oil in long enought do no get the rings to seat as well.

probably a specific requirement of GM -- I have never overhauled a GM
car and have never heard of any requirement for 'special break-in
oil', and I consult regularly with the dealer mechanics when doing a
job like this.

>I thought there was no such thing as "special oil for breakin".  As I
>understand it, it just regular oil, but you have all your metal shards
>and assembly goop floating around in it.  What I've done when rebuilding
>engines is to buy the cheapest junk oil I can & run the engine with that
>for about 5 miles, then change the oil (& filter) to decent (Castrol)
>with a real filter, and run that for a couple of hundred, then I switch
>to Mobil 1 at about 1500 miles.

this is almost exactly what my break-in procedure is -- specifically I
use Sta-Lube Engine Assembly Lube (the kind with graphite) on the
bearing surfaces when I put the engine together, followed by an oil
fill of Golden State 30W for 500 miles, then change to Castrol 10W-40
(for local climate reasons -- use 5W-30 or 10W-30 if you're up north!)
for the next 1500 miles or so.  I usually pull the dipstick about
every other day and look at the oil just to be sure.

>The first oil takes out the major junk, the second change takes out most
>of the rest, and from then on it's just normal break-in.  Be gentle for
>at LEAST 1000 miles, preferably 2000.  (not easy if you just spent
>big bucks on performance parts, you wanna TRY IT!)

Yeah, I can sympathize -- I always want to 'open up' the engine once
I've got it running so sweet, but it's easy enough to hold off when I
think of red-hot rod journals and thermal distortion in the $400
forging I just wrote the check for.  Patience is critical at this
stage ..

BTW -- I do agree with the recommendation to vary rpm's during the
break-in.  Easily done if you drive on busy Interstates during the day
-- just pace the slower traffic and you'll get enough variation.  It
helps settle in the bearings and help them get to 'know' your driving
-- 
<BGB>
lihan@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu        /     "I can't complain,
(really Bruce Bostwick)        /   but sometimes I still do"
from the great state of TEXAS /         --Joe Walsh--
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dennis@mr2.ece.cmu.edu (Dennis J. Ciplickas)
Subject: MB '240D "Injection Noise"
Organization: Carnegie Mellon University
Distribution: rec
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 19:12:12 GMT


I was just told by my dealership that the ticking noise I hear in my
engine is simply "injection noise" and is not problem.  I know that
it's not valves because it ticks at a higher frequency than the engine
is running (that, and it doesn't change volume when I (carefully)
remove the valve cover cap whilst the engine is running).

What is the source of this "injection noise?"  Is it is a small check
valve or rod jumping up and down?  Is it the injection pump
lifters/cam clattering around?  It's loud enough that I can hear it
from the drivers seat with the window closed.  (It must be coming
through the firewall somewhere.)

Just curious,
Dennis
From: jnissen@austin.ibm.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Oil out Exhaust?
Date: 9 Nov 92 22:51:49 GMT
Organization: IBM Austin Advanced Workstation Division
Originator: jnissen@jnissen.austin.ibm.com


In article <1992Nov8.165337.7626@netcom.com>, bigjoe@netcom.com (gordon perry) writes:
> mikec@hpgrla.gr.hp.com (Mike Christensen) writes:
> 
> >Has anybody dealt with the problem of oil coming out the exhaust.  It
> >doesn't happen all the time, usually only at start up, and I'm not sure that
> >what is coming out is oil.  I just can't imagine what else it could be.  It
> >doesn't drip oil at the exhaust, it just leaves a mark on the cement, there
> >is no wetness to it.  Oil comsumption hasn't increased either.  The car is
> >a 1987 Dodge Caravan with the Mitsubishi 2.6L, 4 cyl. engine.  Any help will
> >be greatly appreciated.
> 
> >					Mike Christensen
> I have a similar problem with my 1980 305 V8 Firebird. I changed the PVC
> valve which sometimes helps and got a slight improvement but still I get
> the burst of oil smoke at start up when the car has beeen sitting over a
> couple of hours.  Any ideas would be appreciated.
> 
The problem sounds like valve seals.  As an engine gets older, many of the 
rubber seals tend to get brittle and not work as effectively as when new.
I have had this experience with numerous cars.  The valve seals are the 
most likely problem based on what you have indicated.  The valve seals 	
keep excessive amounts of oil from entering the cumbustion chamber via		
the valve guide and valve stem.  If your engine has leaky valve seals
the oil will seep past them and move down the valve guide.  This happens	
after you shut off your engine.  That is why you see the smoke only on
start up.  Once the oil is burned up after start up the engine can easily
burn the small amount of oil that will leak past the stem seals while the 
engine is running.  The leaking is usually not significant while running 
and you usually don't notice it.  Only after you shut it off and let it sit for
a few hours does it reapear.
Thats my two cents
-- 
 _/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/
 _/           "Sometimes it's not enough to do your best;          _/
 _/            sometimes you must do what's required."             _/
 _/                          - Winston Churchill                   _/
From: ppa@col.hp.com (Paul Austgen)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Why 2 vacuum breaks on carb?
Date: 12 Nov 92 15:41:35 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division

My 82 Buick Century (3.0 liter, 6 cyl) has a Rochester 2EME carbuerator.
Having just dished out about $30 to replace the rear vacuum break, I am
now wondering why there are two vacuum breaks.  
I have several manuals that show how to adjust them, but none state the
function.  Chilton says that the front is for lean, and the rear for
rich, and the choke plate specs are consistent with this.  But it appears
to me that both pull shut as soon as the car starts and the carb pulls
vacuum, so what's the need for two?
Do these relationships change under load?  Is one just a backup if the
other fails?

Paul
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sbender@navajo.dsd.es.com (Steve Bender)
Subject: Re: Dot-5 fluid
Organization: Evans & Sutherland
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 92 05:55:21 GMT

In article <Bx9IJy.Hr6@trc.amoco.com>, zrol01@trc.amoco.com (Richard O. Lindsay) writes:
|> I realize that this is probably a many time discussed item.  
|> However, I do not know the answer.  Has anyone used the dot-5, 
|> synthetic brake fluid in a Jaguar?  I am rebuilding a 1976 XJ-S 
|> that has been abandonded and disassembled for 5 years.  After 
|> repainting under the bonnet I would hate to discover a brake 
|> fluid leak by finding the pool of stripped British Racing Green 
|> paint on the garage floor.  The hopefully obvious solution
|> is to use the dot-5 fluid that is relatively harmless to paint.
|> 
|> Any thoughts or experiences?
|> 
|> Rick
|> 

I use the Dot-5 in my TR4's Girling system and have no complaints.
Aside from having to re-bleed the system a couple days after first
filling the system, it has required zero maintenance in 3-years
and performs perfectly.  Some people claim that it should not be
used in extreme (racing) conditions which may have some validity,
but its greatest redeeming factor is, as you mentioned, that it
will not harm paint.

-- 
Steve Bender
Evans & Sutherland
(801) 582-5847
Salt Lake City, UT 84108

sbender@dsd.es.com

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: Venting a V8 crankcase..........
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 15:00:38 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 If you have a stock-type air cleaner, or one with some restriction in the
air filter element, you may be able to use the slight vacuum in the air
cleaner interior to draw a small negative crankcase pressure. Run a big
enough hose and use a filter element with low restriction. All you really
want is to stop oil gobs and particles, right? A can with a foam or fiber
element might do it. I'd suggest maybe fabricating a special vent outlet
on each valve cover out of the way of most of the oil splash - baffled 
if possible. If you can pull from both covers, that'll improve things too;
your only suction path is via the oil return holes, which have their own
job to do. Too much air flow will help pool oil up top. Best of all would
be to draw from the main cavity but that's something to save for the next
rebuild...
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
From: starling@cs.man.ac.uk (Roger Starling)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: '83 Volvo diesel. HEEEEELLLLLLLPPPPPP......
Date: 12 Nov 92 14:43:59 GMT
Organization: Dept Computer Science, University of Manchester, U.K.

In article <1992Nov10.175603.22046@sequent.com> cyf@sequent.com (Cyrus Foughty) writes:

>
>Symptoms:  Turn key on wait for glowplug light to go out and then try
>to start engine.  It cranks at the normal speed but no ignition.  I
>checked the power strip to all of the glow plugs and the test light is
>alive.  I did not check each individual plug as it is a major pain and
>I checked them a few months ago.  Still even with a few bad glow plugs
>the engine should start.  When I am cranking the engine it doesn't
>even try to start.  Yes, it has fuel in the tank.  I don't know how to
>proceed troubleshooting this any further. What should I do next?


Try checking the stop solenoid. If this is stuck then there will be no
fuel    getting to the injectors.
From: paul@sdd.hp.com (Paul K Johnson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 240Z-280Z Problems
Date: 12 Nov 92 08:57:53 GMT
Article-I.D.: hp-sdd.1duuihINNg3a
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Corporate Engineering
NNTP-Posting-Host: hp-sdd.sdd.hp.com

In article <BxKyAD.Fu@news.cso.uiuc.edu< mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu (REAL LIFE?!?!  HA!!) writes:
<tavernin@rm1.interlan.com (Victor Tavernini) writes:
<
<I
<can't remember whether there were any Z's (as opposed to ZX's) that used EFI,

The Z went to EDI with the 260.

<but I still think the best choice is a 70 or 71 (the 69's are VERY RARE).  
<Even though the 280 accelerates a little faster, the 240 is so pleasant to
<drive.  It handles better due to less weight and it's more fun to drive due
<to razor-sharp throttle response.

Except that they are very susceptible to crosswinds.  The 260's and on
don't have that problem.
<
<And
<make sure you use premium gas.  It really needs the octane.

I have been truly amazed at the '77 and '78 Z regarding octane.  You can
give it the worst gas under the worst conditions and never hear a single
ping.  Awesome!
<
<I would also recommend two things if you have the $$ for it.  Number one, if
<you plan to do any highway driving in an early Z, mothball the original trans-
<mission and get a 5-speed from a 280Z.  

Better yet, just get a 280!

paul
From: leonglaw@hpsgm2.sgp.hp.com (Lawrence LEONG)
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 12:07:27 GMT
Subject: Re: The Gasaver: what's the deal
Organization: HP Singapore