HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: psyrobtw@ubvmsd.cc.buffalo.edu (Robert Weiss)
Newsgroups: trial.rec.metalworking
Subject: Re: Am. Machinist Magazine
Date: 24 Nov 92 03:32:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <1992Nov23.144006.335@news.uwyo.edu>, jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu writes...
>Scott Lefton mentioned American Machinist Magazine.  Could Scott or anybody
>comment or compare this to other magazines such as Home Shop Machinist?
>Before I spring for a trial subscription (I'm not good at sermons :-),
>I'd like just a general idea.  Haven't ever seen it at a news-stand, but
>then I've only seen HSM twice; not the sort of thing that competes well
>agains Time or Cosmo.
> 
>For example, is it more of an industrial-level trade journal, as opposed
>to a hom-shop projects magazine?

Jim,

	It is more oriented to industry, corporate level. It was, at 
one time, devoted to the average job shop. Now, it seems to be more 
oriented to those who arrange factories. A lot of the articles deal 
with flexible manufacturing systems, and robot measurement, and in 
process measuring, SPC theories, et al.



=============================
Robert Weiss
psyrobtw@ubvms.cc.buffalo.edu
Newsgroups: trial.rec.metalworking
From: slefton@world.std.com (Scott A Lefton)
Subject: Attitudes towards Craftspeople, etc.
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 03:11:05 GMT

Gary,

I've never suggested that I know what percentage of the metalworking group
does or doesn't favor the .crafts designation.  I do think it would benefit 
the group to get a few more opinions on record.

Unfortunately, it sounds like you're looking way down your nose at the non-
engineer metalworkers out there.  "Limitations of the group"?  Now there's a
champion case of gall.  The group's high end is hardly defined by PhDs who
mill as a hobby.  Any profession, be it engineering or crafts, is best served
by spotlighting the people who are pushing the edges of innovation.  
Sturgeon's Law applies to both equally.  Both are mostly mediocre by 
definition.  The trick is to inspire the non-best of any group by showing
them how splendid the best are.  Are you good?  What have you done?  If
you are good, your work speaks for you.  I'm rarely the best, but my work
has spoken well for me in galleries, competitions, and steady commissions.

The best artists and craftspeople (the ones worth watching) usually have
extensive technical knowlege about the materials and processes they work
with, just as the best engineers do.  The computer network as a medium is
still largely the province of the technical professional, and this tends
to skew the contributing audience.  This does not change the nature of
art, craft, or engineering, each of which owes something to the others.





Newsgroups: trial.rec.metalworking
From: okunewck@psuvax1.cs.psu.edu (Phil OKunewick)
Subject: Re: Punching/cutting stainless steel (vendor wanted)
Organization: Random, at best
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 18:26:54 GMT

   For all it's faults, stainless steel appears to have one
outstanding property for metalworkers - it _loves_ to be soldered.
I've had no trouble soldering stainless, using a few different kinds
of flux and solder.  For joints that don't require the full strength
of the metal, silver solder will likely do a very nice job.

   But we won't discuss cutting or drilling stainless today...
From: jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu
Newsgroups: trial.rec.metalworking
Subject: Am. Machinist Magazine
Date: 23 Nov 92 21:40:06 GMT
Organization: University of Wyoming - Laramie, WY

Scott Lefton mentioned American Machinist Magazine.  Could Scott or anybody
comment or compare this to other magazines such as Home Shop Machinist?
Before I spring for a trial subscription (I'm not good at sermons :-),
I'd like just a general idea.  Haven't ever seen it at a news-stand, but
then I've only seen HSM twice; not the sort of thing that competes well
agains Time or Cosmo.

For example, is it more of an industrial-level trade journal, as opposed
to a hom-shop projects magazine?

Jim
From: djenkins@axion.bt.co.uk (David Jenkins)
Newsgroups: trial.rec.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need to duplicate an expensive plastic gear
Date: 18 Nov 92 08:10:26 GMT
Reply-To: djenkins@axion.bt.co.uk (David Jenkins)
Organization: British Telecom Research Labs


In article <BxvHFF.FHL@cs.psu.edu>, okunewck@psuvax1.cs.psu.edu (Phil
OKunewick) writes:
|> 
|>    I've got an old slide projector with a stripped gear...
|> 
|>    The stripped gear is missing a few teeth from its smaller
|> diameter
|> part, at the top of a tall shaft.  I'd like to either repair this
|> gear
|> or make a new one.  I'm currently considering an aluminum or brass
|> lost-wax casting of the undamaged gear from the other projector; my
|> problem is making a wax original from the good gear without doing
|> $100
|> damage in an "oops".
|> 
...

You are unlikely to get a satisfactory gear from a lost-wax casting,
especially in the small sizes you're talking about.  In my dubious
opinion, you have two choices:-

1. Get a gear made by a clockmaker (if you can find one) - he will have
gear cutting equipment and should be able to create a fairly close copy
quite quickly.  This is presuming that this is a small ordinary gear,
not a bevel one.  Although this will cost money, I doubt whether he will
charge as much as $100!  He might even have a "near enough" gear in his
parts box.

2.  If the plastic is "stickable", try filing off the broken teeth and
gluing in a piece of similar plastic.  When it's set, file the teeth
into a reasonable approximation of the other teeth.  This IS crude, but
I've seen it work.

Just my two-pence worth...



David Jenkins

:Error #9851 * REALITY.SYS Corrupted: Re-boot universe? (Y/N/Q)
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot)
Newsgroups: trial.rec.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need to duplicate an expensive plastic gear
Date: 20 Nov 92 16:45:50 GMT
Organization: LLNL

In article <1992Nov18.081026@axion.bt.co.uk>, djenkins@axion.bt.co.uk (David Jenkins) writes:
> 

> 
> You are unlikely to get a satisfactory gear from a lost-wax casting,
> especially in the small sizes you're talking about.  In my dubious
> opinion, you have two choices:-
> 

That's not true.  Lost-wax casting is precise and is used often in the
jewelry trade for objects about the size you wish to cast.

The main problem is that the cost of materials may exceed your budget
several times.  The usual method of making a duplicate of small objects is
to make a mold using Silastic E (Dow Corning) and then cast either wax or
plastic duplicates.  The wax duplicates can be used to make metal castings
or the Silastic E mold can be used with some polymerizing plastic to
make plastic castings directly.  There are two problems with all of this -
cost and size.  If you attempt to make a metal replica, the casting has about
3 - 5% shrinkage between hot and cold, which may make gear mesh a problem.
You can get some plastic types which (due to filler) have almost no shrinkage.
Whether or not the mechanical properties are right is the question.

Silastic E itself has almost no shrinkage and the object is duplicated
right down to scratches.  It's only problem is that it costs $158 per
9.9 lb package (about a gallon).  0.9 lb packages are available, but
there may be a minimum, since Dow isn't a company for the little folks.

GP
Newsgroups: trial.rec.metalworking
From: hank@well.sf.ca.us (Hank Roberts)
Subject: Punching/cutting stainless steel (vendor wanted)
Organization: Whole Earth 'Lectronic Link
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 02:58:10 GMT


I've been making metal mobiles for 15 years now; have some designs
that work well outdoors over the long term.  I've used brass and
silver-brazing.

I'd like to find two things:

1)  A fabricator who can take shapes I specify, punch'em out of 
stainless steel, and deburr them, and perhaps weld stainless steel
rods onto the shapes  (sheet about .035" and rod of about 1/16").  Those
I could then assemble myself.

2)  A fabricator who can scale up designs, which means both making
the individual pieces and doing the welding to attach connectors at
the balance points I specify.

I'm in the San Francisco Bay area.
Newsgroups: trial.rec.metalworking
From: okunewck@psuvax1.cs.psu.edu (Phil OKunewick)
Subject: Need to duplicate an expensive plastic gear
Organization: Random, at best
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 18:16:27 GMT

   I've got an old slide projector with a stripped gear.  The gear
isn't available seperately; a replacement for the drive mechanism
costs $100.  I bought a used replacement projector for $75, but I'd
like to repair the broken projector for a spare.  (This projector uses
Bell-and-Howell slide cubes - excellent storage for thousands of
slides, but not a very durable projector.)  I don't have the tools to
machine a gear from a piece of stock.

   The stripped gear is missing a few teeth from its smaller diameter
part, at the top of a tall shaft.  I'd like to either repair this gear
or make a new one.  I'm currently considering an aluminum or brass
lost-wax casting of the undamaged gear from the other projector; my
problem is making a wax original from the good gear without doing $100
damage in an "oops".

   Several years ago, there was a childs toy on the market that could
be used to cast something like this - the child would mix the mold
material and stick his hand in.  The mold material would set but not
harden so that the child could pull his hand out, then after a few
hours it would harden to the point that he could do a plaster cast.
Something like this could make my wax original.

   So that's what I've got for ideas so far.  Does anybody have
suggestions on how to make this gear?
From: alexo+@cs.cmu.edu (Alex Orenshteyn)
Newsgroups: trial.rec.metalworking
Subject: Re: Smithy
Date: 20 Nov 92 16:21:49 GMT
Organization: School of Computer Science, Carnegie Mellon

In article <1992Nov18.155316.28357@news2.cis.umn.edu> Dave Larsen <dal@boombox.micro.umn.edu> writes:
>I've been thinking about starting to work with metal. Some say to 
>start with a mill, some say a lathe is more versatile. So I see the 
>combo tool from Smithy (Enco has one too, I think). 
>
>I am have seen the Shopsmith for woodworking and am seriously 
>unimpressed.
>
>Any net.wisdom would be appreciated.
I hesitate to offer any advice, but STAY AWAY from ShopTask, not only do they
publish bogus accuracy numbers, but also do not deliver on time and refuse to
return your money if you can no longer wait without having you sign some
murderous legal paper. I had to go through my bank to charge them back on my
credit card. Actually that is a very good idea to use your credit card, this
way you have some way to pressure any company if they are not delivering what
they promised.
Newsgroups: trial.rec.metalworking
From: okunewck@psuvax1.cs.psu.edu (Phil OKunewick)
Subject: Re: Attitudes towards Craftspeople, etc.
Organization: Random, at best
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 17:47:36 GMT

   Guys and gals, is it _really_ that critical what the group is
called?  At the rate the flames are going here, it'll just stay
trial.rec.metalworking forever.

The way I see it, the name only has to suit only one criteria:
1) People should be able to easily find the group by its name.

   Period.

   The only limit to what can be posted is what annoys people.  If you
want to post about the art of metalworking, or science, or even
alchemy (turning lead into gold is metalworking, you know), go for it.
The name is simply a hint of what can be found in the group.

   The name trial.* sucks.  This is without a doubt a very useful
group for its subscribers, with one of the highest signal-to-noise
ratios on the entire network.  But trial.????  Heck, we'd be better
off calling it alt.(something) - it'll get a bigger readership that
way.

   So, if you're offended by having "crafts" in the name, then you
probably deserve to be offended.  Sheesh.

   Let's just get this newsgroup out of trial.* and into a full-blown
heirarchy, shall we?  rec.crafts.metalworking is a name that's very
easy to find; not perfect but it'll work.

   Either that or keep it in the trial.* heirarchy.  If this vote fails
then that's exactly where it's going to stay - for a LONG time.
Newsgroups: trial.rec.metalworking
From: slefton@world.std.com (Scott A Lefton)
Subject: Practical Ideas
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 04:35:18 GMT

A good monthly source of shop tips and tricks is the Practical Ideas column in
American Machinist Magazine.  This is published by Penton, and may be a freebie
if you can convince them that you qualify as a machine shop.  (I'm sure
that others have done postings on how to convince freebie publishers that
you deserve their fine publications.  If not, request away, and I'll do the
sermon.  :-)  )  Their number is 216-696-7000.  

Also, they have a column called Metalworking & the Law, covering all sorts
of terrible factory accidents.  Aside from gratifying lawyers and gore fans,
it serves as a good monthly reminder to treat power equipment with the 
respect it deserves.

Newsgroups: trial.rec.metalworking
From: slefton@world.std.com (Scott A Lefton)
Subject: Re: Need to duplicate an expensive plastic gear
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 04:26:03 GMT

Assuming that you have access to good lost wax casting, and that the gear is
not a super high-precision item, here's a couple of moldmaking suggestions.

The mold materials to consider are epoxy and RTV.  Epoxy molds are more
accurate, but may be a problem to release your original from, even with
liberal application of mold release.  (I know some folks who get away
with using PAM spray for mold release.)  

If you have one flat side for this part, you're in luck, and the moldmaking 
is a lot easier.  Make a form to contain the molding compound and the 
original with a separate base and pinned rim.  Mix and pour your 
compound, and allow to cure.  Separate the sections and _carefully_ remove
your original. 

If the part needs a two-part mold, start by making a matched and pinned
pair of forms to hold the mold halves.  Make an intermediate plate that 
they can both pin to.  Secure the original to the plate, and build up 
around it with modeling clay to prevent any keying into the mold.  Now place
the frame around and pour.  You now have part one.  Remove the frame and 
mold half from the original and plate, remove and clean off the original, 
and replace in the half mold.  Now add the other frame piece, and pour away.  
Of course, you've used lots of mold release all over the place.  Try to 
avoid RTV for a two-part mold.

Your two mold halves separate cleanly, your original pops out, and there's 
your mold.  _If_  everything works right.  

This mold will require sprues and vents to fill by pouring.  If you have 
access to a wax injector, only a sprue is necessary.  Mill and/or drill
carefully.  If you want, build sprues and vents right in with clay and
rods as forms.

There are numerous waxes to choose from; for this, you want a fairly hard
one.  Your local jewelry district is a good source for this.  Just melt in
a double boiler and pour.

Note that the cast part will require cleanup of sprues, bubbles, and possible
boring for the shaft in this case.  If you'd rather cast with the hole for the
shaft, I'd suggest a graphite rod stuck in the hole in the wax to keep it
clear during casting.  Investment won't support a long section, if the hole
is much deeper than wide.

This is a very superficial overview, but should give a good start.  You _can_
do this at home, with simple equipment.  Make sure your access to casting
is set, and that your part will fit in your caster's flask.

slefton@world.std.com                          Scott Lefton  617-665-1528

Newsgroups: trial.rec.metalworking
From: steveh@psg.com (Steve Hampson)
Subject: Re: Smithy
Organization: Pacific Systems Group, Portland Oregon US
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 21:19:49 GMT

In article <1992Nov18.155316.28357@news2.cis.umn.edu> Dave Larsen <dal@boombox.micro.umn.edu> writes:
>I've been thinking about starting to work with metal. Some say to 
>start with a mill, some say a lathe is more versatile. So I see the 
>combo tool from Smithy (Enco has one too, I think). 
>
>I am have seen the Shopsmith for woodworking and am seriously 
>unimpressed.
>
>Any net.wisdom would be appreciated.

My first reaction from looking at the pictures of the "Smithy" and
similar machines is that they lack the rigidity to do more than very
light work.  The tool post is a very spindly tower that looks to be
about 6" high.  You may be able to carefully machine plastic and
aluminum, but I doubt that steel will work well.

Does anyone have any direct experience with these machines?
-- 
Steve Hampson                       steveh@m2xenix.psg.com
17624 Schalit Way                   home (503) 636-6966
Lake Oswego, OR  97035              work (503) 222-9571
USA
Newsgroups: trial.rec.metalworking
From: hank@well.sf.ca.us (Hank Roberts)
Subject: Re: Punching/cutting stainless steel (vendor wanted)
Organization: Whole Earth 'Lectronic Link
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 01:22:50 GMT

In <BxxCKu.2p1@cs.psu.edu> okunewck@psuvax1.cs.psu.edu (Phil OKunewick) writes:

>   But we won't discuss cutting or drilling stainless today...


Is it tomorrow yet? (grin).  Yes, if anyone knows of diamond-clad shears
or something suitable for cutting shapes out of thin stainless steel sheet
(or even of some suitably hard-edged wire-cutters for 1/16" stainless rod,
*or* even some round-nosed (wire-bending) pliers that won't get all
gouged up by bending loops in 1/16" stainless rod .... I want'em.
Newsgroups: trial.rec.metalworking
From: steveh@psg.com (Steve Hampson)
Subject: Re: Need to duplicate an expensive plastic gear
Organization: Pacific Systems Group, Portland Oregon US
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 21:27:39 GMT

In article <BxvHFF.FHL@cs.psu.edu> okunewck@psuvax1.cs.psu.edu (Phil OKunewick) writes:
>   The stripped gear is missing a few teeth from its smaller diameter
>part, at the top of a tall shaft.  I'd like to either repair this gear
>or make a new one.  I'm currently considering an aluminum or brass
>lost-wax casting of the undamaged gear from the other projector; my
>problem is making a wax original from the good gear without doing $100
>damage in an "oops".

A casting made as you describe will not work because the metal will shrink
a considerable amount leaving the new gear smaller than the old gear.

>   So that's what I've got for ideas so far.  Does anybody have
>suggestions on how to make this gear?
>

If it looks like a simple gear, I would try to find an off the shelf
replacement.  Call this company and ask for their free "Handbook of Gears":

Stock Drive Products
Sterling Instrument
516-328-3300


-- 
Steve Hampson                       steveh@m2xenix.psg.com
17624 Schalit Way                   home (503) 636-6966
Lake Oswego, OR  97035              work (503) 222-9571
USA
Newsgroups: trial.test
Subject: Cosmic Vortex
From: daviss@vax.sonoma.edu
Date: 23 Nov 92 14:44:17 -0800
Organization: Sonoma State University


This is a test.  I am only testing and that is what I am doing.  I 
feel free now.  Finally free to test this whole darn system and prove 
to myself once and for all that I actually exist as a connected 
member of the universe.  I have been lurking in the shadows of the 
newsgroups for weeks now.  Quietly observing all that everyone says.  
Each gem of truth, each piece of drivel, each smart alleck remark, 
each funny joke, they are all in my mind.  But the time has come for 
me to join the party.  The party of paties and be heard by the 
hundreds of thousands of uysers out there that will reel with delight 
as they read my words.  
	I have seen the posts of people who tru to sensor others for 
posting inapropriate messages in the wrong places and doubtless 
someone will come upon these words and try to "flame" me (I know your 
words) for including such an elaborate exclamation of my passion for 
the internet here in this innocuous and limited space.  To them I 
say, fire shall not stop my fingers flying over these keys -- my 
truth shall be heard here and now into the vortex of wisdom and truth 
I shriek my song!  I will be heard!!
From: kar@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Kathleen Ann Roemer)
Newsgroups: trial.test
Subject: Re: testing
Date: 23 Nov 1992 06:39:21 GMT
Organization: Computing Services Division, University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
NNTP-Posting-Host: 129.89.7.4

This is a test!
Newsgroups: oh.general,cmh.general,oh.news
From: lwv26@cas.org (Larry W. Virden)
Subject: Re: Usenet/Email (at least) and FTP/Telnet (preferably) Columbus OH
Followup-To: oh.general,cmh.general,oh.news
Reply-To: lvirden@cas.org (Larry W. Virden)
Organization: Nedriv Software and Shoe Shiners, Uninc.
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 16:41:55 GMT

Blue Moon does have usenet and email.  The problem that I have had is with
getting email into blue moon to work.  They have tried at least 3 addresses
and I don't know if any of the 3 are working yet.
-- 
Larry W. Virden                 UUCP: osu-cis!chemabs!lvirden
Same Mbox: BITNET: lvirden@cas  INET: lvirden@cas.org
Personal: 674 Falls Place,   Reynoldsburg, OH 43068-1614
From: weekley@helios.phy.ohiou.edu (Don Weekley)
Newsgroups: oh.general
Subject: RE: The Ghoul/Ghoulardi (Cleveland)
Date: 19 Nov 92 04:50:00 GMT
Distribution: oh
Organization: Ohio University ASCGL, Athens

------Introduction Deleted-----

> 1) Was the character name described above 'The Ghoul' or 'Ghoulardi'?
>    What was the name of his show?

	Ghoulardi came first, he then left for California. The
	Ghoul came later. (He was the one I remember watching.)

> 2) I heard that the original dude left/was fired/was cancelled and a
>    poor imitation followd for a short while... this may explain the 2
>    different names in #1 above. Can anyone clarify this?

	Ghoulardi was so popular he had to have a sequel, which
	apparently (according to my mom) didn't match up, but he
	was great just the same (to me at least)

>  3) Was the original guy's name Ernie Anderson? I heard after leaving
>    the show he went to Hollywood and was doing voiceovers for TV shows
>    like Charlies Angels. I thought I saw 'Ernie Anderson' on the
>    credits for "America's Funniest Videos" as the announcer... is this
>    him?

	I will have to see if my mom recognizes his voice, to
	find out.
> 4) What TV station in Cleveland did this run on? (I believe it is now
>    defunct.)

	I will find out over Thankgiving or when I talk to the
	'rents this weekend.


> 5) Any dates as to when this stuff was on the air?

	Mid-sixties to mid- late- seventies. The switch came in
	the late sixties.

> 6) I heard that viewers frequently sent in the props to be blown up;
>    some already fitted with the 'charges'. Heard a story that one of
>    these viewer contributions turned out to be a hefty one, more like
>    'ordinance' than a firecracker and it tore up part of the studio.
>    Did this really happen? Is that what got him removed from the air?

	It may have seemed that way but I really doubted it.
	Though I could tell they both used some pretty heavy
	stuff. (M80s, cherry bombs etc.)


> As I said, my memory is somewhat faded... any corrections, facts, other 
> stories, etc. would be greatly appreciated.

	Mine has faded too. (Grad school don'tcha know). I hope
	this helps. I will find out more over Thanksgiving.
	
	I really miss that show. Big Chuck and Hoolihan (Now
	little john! :( ) too. They just don't make them like
	that anymore. Fritx the night owl was the closest and
	now he's off the air. HE was on channel 10 CBS in
	Columbus.

	Do you remember the certain ethnic whatever jokes?
	God does latenight TV really stink now.

					Don

Bag the .sig read the header!

Thanks-

Lee

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Lee Roth  N8JQY                         Digital Equipment Corporation
roth@csoadm.enet.dec.com                
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-


-- 
Don't stop thingk about tomorrow.....
Newsgroups: oh.general,osu.general