HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu (Rockville)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Flushing before dot-5
Date: 6 Nov 92 22:47:25 GMT
Article-I.D.: news.BxBGn3.81M
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana

zrol01@trc.amoco.com (Richard O. Lindsay) writes:

>When changing to dot-5 brake fluid, is there another chemical 
>to flush/clean the system or should one 'bleed' the dot-3 stuff 
>out?

I have not heard of a special DOT3 - DOT5 transition product, but I have heard
a lot of stories about DOT5 fluid.  A lot of sources I have seen say that you
should replace EVERY rubber component in the brake system when changing over.
Others say bleeding really carefully is enough.  I changed over my dad's BMW
(1973) to DOT5 last summer.  Ignoring the warnings, I just bled through a pint
or so of extra DOT5 and looked in the collection jar not only for bubbles, but
DOT3 (it separates).  The car has been driven maybe 1000 miles since then, and
the brakes are better than ever!  There has been no problem I can attribute to
the brake fluid.  BTW, as one who restores cars, I think the two biggest pluses
to DOT5 are 1) no moisture absorption if no DOT3 is present, and 2) will not
damage paint.  I swear by the stuff personally, and it's definitely worth the
initial cost and nuisance.

$0.02
-- 
Michael T. Chaffee        |****COLORADO BOYCOTTER******|  ______    
mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu | Professional Slapthologist |  \    /     HATE
Member, Universal Life Church, Sect of Loons           |   \  /  can never be
Annoyance Theatre Platinum Member |     Evil Genius    |    \/  a FAMILY VALUE
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: zzang@stat.ufl.edu (zzang)
Subject: Freon detector - info wanted
Originator: zzang@manta
Organization: University of Florida
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 92 17:58:03 GMT

Hello,
I saw a compact Freon detector using
by a AC technician, it is quite neat
and powered by battery.
I wonder if it is available on the
market for the common users.
any info will be very much appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

-- 
Zhuo Zang[~{j0WA~}]
Department of Statistics
University of Florida            Email: zzang@stat.ufl.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: TESTING of antifreeze chemical balances?
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 21:12:39 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 Regarding the electrochemical testing of corrosion inhibition, what is
the composition of the probe used? Does it matter? I wonder if the activity
of the probe is indicative of the activity of iron, aluminum, brass and
other metal parts, if the probe is another sort?
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: lester@naomi.b23b.ingr.com (Les Bartel)
Subject: Re: The Gasaver: what's the deal
Reply-To: lester@naomi.b23b.ingr.com
Organization: Intergraph Corporation
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 19:18:26 GMT

In article <BxBE7K.54x@taligent.com>, Todd O'Connor <todd_oconnor@taligent.com> writes:
|> On the same theory as the "Gasaver" liquid is one that I saw at the local flea
|> market. You install this small plug-in device between your distributor cap and coil
|> wire. It supposedly increases your power, improves mileage, and some other really
|> outrageous things that I can't remember now. (oh yea, you can start the car, in
|> this case a V-8 with half, or more, of the sparkplug wires disconnected) Anyone
|> seen or heard of this?
|> 
|> My question is if these "snake-oil" remedies are so great why hasn't some
|> manufacturer bought them out and included the device on their production cars? 
|> Until they do I'm not convinced enough by their fast talk.
|> 
|> -tc
|> todd_oconnor@taligent.com

And I suppose you could put several of them in the coil wire to run a V-8
on 1 cylinder and get 60 mpg out of that 4000 lb car, and not even notice
any power loss.  :-)

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: welchb@woods.ulowell.edu
Subject: Do I have grease fittings (or a place for them)?
Organization: University of Lowell
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 16:48:07 GMT

(Sorry if this is in FAQ)
How do you tell if your car is able to be greased?  I.e., if you take it to a
quicky oil change place for a complete oil and lube job, and then find
that all they had to do is change the oil, you could do it yourself.

My daughter has a '91 Plymouth Acclaim.  I got out the Chiltons from the
library which covered a lot of cars (including that one).  It amazes me
that such an erudite and supposedly complete publication does not cover
the subject.  A generation ago, every gas station had a manual near the
lube rack, showing the (many) lubrication points; you wanted to be sure
that your mechanic did not miss any.  I understand that many cars are
supposedly permanently or semi-permanently greased (bringing up the
problem of whether fittings should be permanently installed).

In the  case of the Acclaim, under the heading of replacing the lower
support arm, they obscurely say to grease the replaced arm.  But the
fitting does not appear in the diagram.  The word "grease" does not
appear in any index or table of contents.  The word "lubrication" does
not appear in the context of the traditional grease gun.

I agree that times have changed, and a book has a right to cater to advanced
subjects like replacing engine pistons, but IMHO they are missing part of the
forest because of the trees. 
-- 
Brendan Welch, UMass/Lowell, W1LPG,  welchb@woods.ulowell.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: seanr@lobo.rmhs.colorado.edu (Sean Reifschneider)
Subject: Re: Need Rotary Engine (12A)
Date: Thu, 05 Nov 1992 05:20:09 GMT
Organization: Rocky Mountain High School, Fort Collins, CO

In article <m5VPTB3w164w@cellar.org> blu@cellar.org (Dan Reed) writes:
>smith@ctron.com (Larry Smith) writes:
>
>> In article <92Nov02.163857.1664@acs.ucalgary.ca>, jpmcmill@acs.ucalgary.ca (J
>> >Help! I just found out that the engine on my 1983 RX7 just bit
>> >it, no compression.  I am looking for an independent aftermarket
>> 
>> It has been alleged to me that a complete engine rebuild for a Mazda rotary
>> is something like $150 down at your Mazda engine shop.  I'd be curious to
>
>Uhh..
>
>Hate to tell you this.... Rotarys have no compression.  Try it... 

Hate to tell you this, but they DO.  To properly measure compression, you need
a special tester that runs in the $700 range (to dynamically test each pass
of the rotor).  It still has intake, compression and exhaust phases, it's
just that it does them all at the same time.

If it had no compression, it wouldn't really do anything.  Certainly not move
a car from 0-60 in 8 seconds.

Sean
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: eliot@chutney.rtp.dg.com (Topher Eliot)
Subject: Re: Lunk, lunk, lunk -- wheel bearings?
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 92 15:52:52 GMT
Reply-To: eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com
Organization: Data General Corporation, Research Triangle Park, NC

In article <1992Nov10.113134.1@woods.ulowell.edu>, welchb@woods.ulowell.edu writes:
|> In article <BxGKLL.GwH@fmsrl7.srl.ford.com>, tgl@slee01.srl.ford.com (Tom Leone) writes:
|> > eliot@chutney.rtp.dg.com (Topher Eliot) writes:
|> > : My 80 Civic with 100K miles has started making a little lunk, lunk, lunk
|> > : sound when turn I left through an intersection (i.e. at greater than driveway
|> > : speed).  As I recall this is a sign of wheel bearings starting to go.  True?
|> > 
|> > No, it's probably your CV (Constant Velocity) joints (since the noise
|> 
|> First you should make sure it is not just a simple case of the lugs nuts
|> on a wheel being loose.  Jack the car up and try to tighten.

No, that went RRRRRRRRRRRR, and it didn't matter if I was turning (in fact I
only heard it when I was going at a speed that I wouldn't be going at during
a sharp turn), and went away completely when I tightened the lug nuts.

BTW, about 10% of the civilized world has now kindly told me it's probably my
CV joints, so the rest of you don't have to.

-- 
Topher Eliot             Data General DG/UX Systems Administration Development
(919) 248-6371                                             eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com
Obviously, I speak for myself, not for DG.
misc.consumers.house archivist.  Send mail to house-archive@dg-rtp.dg.com
"I can understand Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles, but I can't understand mutually
recursive inline functions."  --anon.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz)
Subject: Re: What is current wisdom on rotating tires (tyres)?
Organization: Naval Ocean Systems Center, San Diego
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 13:21:09 GMT

In article <1992Nov4.205441.26521@cbnews.cb.att.com> shahrukh_merchant@att.com writes:
>I have heard two schools of thought on whether tires should be rotated:

>   1. Front to Back only, so tires that start out on one side (left or
>      right) always stay there, or:
>   2. Front to back as well as diagonally, so that a tire ends up in all
>      4 positions eventually.

>What is the wisdom of the net?

Ummmm, the 'net' is about the *last* place you should look for this
information...  The *tire manufacturer* is the first place you should look.  In
_GENERAL_, scheme #2 you mention is prefered, but there are enough
special-cases that you'd better _NOT_ take my, or any else's advice blindly...

Walt K.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jcyuhn@crchh574.BNR.CA (James Yuhn)
Subject: Re: Digital Instrument Cluster Prob 
Reply-To: jcyuhn@crchh574.BNR.CA (James Yuhn)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 15:17:08 GMT

In article <1992Nov9.211249.12094@noose.ecn.purdue.edu>, mccorry@ecn.purdue.edu
(Steven E. McCorry) writes:
|>
|>	I have an 86' Z-24 (Yes, with the infamous 2.8L :)).
|>Recently, for the past 2 weeks, I've been having a problem with the digital 
|>instrament cluster fading in and out in intensity - (from normal to
completely
|>gone).  I was wondering if anyone else has had simalar problems with digital 
|>guages.
|>
|>I have had the board - the entire cluster - out and have checked it for loose
or 
|>dirty connections but found none.  Also, when the dash does go out, a slap
with 
|>my hand to anywhere on the dashboard will immeadiately bring the display back
|>up- temporarily.
|>
|>Thanks,
|>
|>Steve McCorry  (mccorry@cn.ecn.purdue.edu)

  My '86 did this also, and I also used to give it a temporary fix via a
  quick thump on the dash. In my case, the problem was the copper
  strips which feed power and signal to the dash. (There is no wiring 
  harness or other positive connection to the gauges. Everything is fed
  via copper strips which line up with contacts on the gauge panel. Much
  like the way a slot car gets its power.) I removed the guage panel, cleaned
  the contacts with a pencil eraser, bent the contacts to increase the 
  chances of a good connection, and reassembled. The problem disappeared, 
  never to be seen again.
 
  That said, I had a friend who was having the same problem. In her case,   
  the guages themselves were on the fritz, there was no problem with 
  contacts. The solution was to replace the guage panel - quite expensive.
 
  Hope this helps,
 
  Jim
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From:  (Norman Petersen)
Subject: Re: What is current wisdom on rotating tires (tyres)?
Organization: Motorola SPS
Distribution: USA
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 15:06:44 GMT

In article <23895@hacgate.SCG.HAC.COM>, johnl@SDFSERV.hac.com (John Lee) writes:
> 
> In article <Bx7n5p.1Go@mentor.cc.purdue.edu> mshar@mentor.cc.purdue.edu (Mike Mshar) writes:
> [...]
> <Here is how it was explained to me. Most of this is coming right out of a
> <book that is called "Chilton`s Easy Car Care", so I assume it to be
> <factual. 
> <
> <If your car does not have radial tires, you should use the second method.
> <In other words, rotate the tires diagonally.
> <
> <If your car does have radials, only rotate front to back. I will just quote
> <the book for this one...
> <
> <"There are certain exceptions to tire rotation, however. Studded snow tires
> <should not be rotated, and radials should be kept on the same side of the
> <car (maintain the same direction of rotation). The belts on radial tires
> <get set in a pattern. If the direction of rotation is reversed, it can
> <cause rough ride and vibration."
> <
> <So there it is...
> [...]
> 
> That's what I was taught as well.  However, my one year-old Saturn SC
> has the stock Firestone Firehawk radials, and the owner's manual
> clearly indicates a diagonal tire rotation.  I thought moving a radial
> to the other side of the car could cause the tire to fail by separating
> the steel from the rubber.  But hey, I'm just a software guy; what do I
> know?
> 
> Perhaps radial tire technology has improved in the last few years...
> 
 I have been rotating my radial tires in a diagonal pattern for about 4 years 
and have not had any problem with rough riding or vibration.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: schludermann@sscvx1.ssc.gov
Subject: heres's a method of rotating tires, learned from a trucker
Organization: Superconducting Super Collider Laboratory
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 23:57:35 GMT

 This is how I've rotated tires, learned it from a trucker.
Get your self a tread depth gauge, measure the tread at three points across
the tire (avoid wear bars) and repeat this twice more at +&- 120 degrees 
from this point. write it down, repeat on all other tires (even spare).
I then take the tire that has the most wear and put it on the wheel
that had the least wear or put it up as the spare. If there is uniform
wear between two tires I swap them. I get 75k out of my toyota tires
this way BTW they're 8 ply too.

Kris 

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: What is current wisdom on rotating tires (tyres)?
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 92 06:46:51 GMT

John Lee <jslee> (jslee@nrtc.nrtc.northrop.com) wrote:
: > shahrukh_merchant@att.com writes:
: >I have heard two schools of thought on whether tires should be rotated:
: >
: 
: 	The current wisdom is: Don't rotate unless you need it. In other
: words, if your tires are wearing correctly, why would you want to change
: that condition? Rotation shouldd be to correct irregular wear patterns
: which may be inherent to the position the tire is placed. But if no such
: irregular pattern exists, there's no need to fix it.

I don't know if I buy this.  My front tires ALWAYS wear faster than the rears.
This may be, of course, due to my rather ...um...aggressive driving style.

I just switch them front-to-back when I go from winter to summer tires, in
other words I put those with the most tread on the fronts. (FWD car).  
Since I change tires every 6 months anyway, this works out pretty well.
(Note: these are all directional tires, so I don't have to worry about
diagonal vs. front/back rotations, as I REFUSE to have them re-mounted on
different wheels just to rotate them.)

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
Don't blame me; I voted for Perot!                hinzd@picard.med.ge.com 
SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.             Pherrets are Phun!!!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: A.J.Robinson@lut.ac.uk
Subject: Re: Granada Automatic Problems
Reply-To: A.J.Robinson@lut.ac.uk (Alan Robinson)
Organization: Loughborough University, UK.
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 92 11:14:09 GMT

In article <1992Nov11.125009.29204@lut.ac.uk> A.J.Robinson@lut.ac.uk (Alan Robinson)  writes:
>
>Has anyone experienced this strange problem before ?
>
>My Granada Auto (1986 2.8i Ghia) box seems to behave perfectly EXCEPT
>if I or it wants to change 3->2 between 40 and about 47 mph.
>Its fine 3->2 from 0-40 mph.
>Its fine 3->2 from 47-75 mph.
>
>Between 40 and 47 changing 3->2 by opening the throttle, using kickdown
>or pulling the stick into 2 causes the appearance of a neutral position
>(engine on rev limit, no forward power) for about 1 or 2 seconds, after 
>which 2nd is engaged.
>
>Similar SLIGHT flare-up on 1->2 on light throttle.
>
>It appears I have a problem going into 2nd, but its very specific and the
>change is perfect at other speeds.
>
>It is under warranty, but the selling dealer appears not to have a clue.
>(Not a FORD dealer - I bought it used from another main dealer).
>
>Any ideas on what the problem is or what I should do ?


Come on, someone must drive a Granada somewhere out there !

Even if you cant answer the above problem, let me know how yours drives
and see i that will give me any clues.

Alan.
From: sandrar@garnet.berkeley.edu (Sandi Rollins)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Where to Buy Engine for 1964 Ford Falcon in Bay Area?
Date: 9 Nov 1992 19:30:44 GMT
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
Distribution: ba
NNTP-Posting-Host: garnet.berkeley.edu

My SO is about to do an engine swap on his 1964 Falcon.  He wants to replace
the 170 with a 200 (I believe it's the 1965 Mustang engine...?)  So far
he's been quoted about $1100 for the rebuilt version, 3 yr, 36K warranty.
His big preference is for a local shop that will use a NEW cam shaft; most
seem to just regrind an old one, with no guarantees.

He wants to do the work over Thanksgiving weekend, so any recommendations
of good places to go are most appreciated.  Any help??  E-mail is fine,
posting too.

Thanks,

Sandi

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: cs386122@ucs.usl.edu (Mejia Pablo J.)
Subject: '84 Pontiac T1000 ignition
Organization: Univ. of Southwestern La., Lafayette
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 08:19:49 GMT



  Okay, folks, here's the situation.....

  Pontiac 1000...no spark....

  I did a "known good" replacement test of the ignition module..
  no change....I have BAT voltage at the proper places....the 
  pickup coil reads proper resistace (845 ohm, spec is 500-1000)
  
  The readings through the ignition coil are good...11.7k ohms from
  primary to secondary (on both sides....spec is 6-30k) and .5 ohm
  on primary  (spec is <1 ohm).....

   Soooooo.....everything in the "spark" circuit reads good...my
   question is:

   Is it possible for the ignition coil to "read good" on primary/
   secondary resistance test and still be bad???

   HELP!!!!

   Please RSVP to cs386122@ucs.usl.edu



                            Allen

 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: seanr@lobo.rmhs.colorado.edu (Sean Reifschneider)
Subject: Re: Bleed Brakes After Changing Pads?
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 16:48:13 GMT
Organization: Rocky Mountain High School, Fort Collins, CO

In article <1992Nov10.170858.14878@bnr.ca> Peon w/o Email priv (Eric Youngblood) writes:
>I bleed the entire system each time I change pads.  This may not be necessary
>every time, but considering the time between pad changes (I avg every 2 years)
>Its nice to get the old cooked moisture laiden brake fluid out. It is usually
>a brown color and is sometimes dark.

I agree here.  They say you should change the fluid every year (along with
coolant).  With the cost of brake parts (and clutch parts, if you have a
hydraulic clutch), it's worth the few bucks...

Sean
From: zrol01@trc.amoco.com (Richard O. Lindsay)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Dot-5 fluid
Date: 5 Nov 92 21:33:34 GMT
Reply-To: zrol01@trc.amoco.com
Organization: Amoco Production Company, Tulsa Research

I realize that this is probably a many time discussed item.  
However, I do not know the answer.  Has anyone used the dot-5, 
synthetic brake fluid in a Jaguar?  I am rebuilding a 1976 XJ-S 
that has been abandonded and disassembled for 5 years.  After 
repainting under the bonnet I would hate to discover a brake 
fluid leak by finding the pool of stripped British Racing Green 
paint on the garage floor.  The hopefully obvious solution
is to use the dot-5 fluid that is relatively harmless to paint.

Any thoughts or experiences?

Rick


------------------------------------------------------------
     Richard O. Lindsay        /     __  __      __  __
  Senior Research Scientist   /   / /_/ /_  / / /_/ /_/
  Amoco Production Research  /   / / / /_/ /_/ / / / \
                            / /_/
                           /
My opinions are my own, untill they're worth something, at
which point they become the property of my employer...
------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Date: 10 Nov 92 01:49:49 GMT
Message-ID: <henny.721360189@uieea>
From: Michel_Denber.WBST147@xerox.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Black Plague
Date: 9 Nov 1992 08:15:24 -0600
Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu

I just noticed (well I noticed a long time ago, but it finally dawned on me
that maybe something wasn't quite right) that the power steering fluid in my
wife's '84 Buick Skyhawk (64K miles) is the color and consistency of black
fountain pen ink.  I would imagine it's not supposed to look like that, right?
We recently had a long discussion here about the importance of changing your
brake fluid.  What about power steering fluid?  Should I be worried about this?
What made it turn black?  It's been this way for years.  It seems to be
functioning OK, although it does have a minor leak at a pressure hose fitting,
and it suffers from the classic "high effort when cold" problem that plagued
some early '80's GM offerings.  (If you don't know this, when the weather is
cold (below 35 or so) the first turn you try to make feels like there's no PS
boost.  After a second or two, the boost magically appears and the PS functions
normally from then on.)

			- Michel

denber.wbst147@xerox.com
From: sl0mv@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: putting a 5spd in a '61 chevy apache 10
Date: 10 Nov 92 01:22:17 GMT
Article-I.D.: cc.1992Nov9.192217.60576
Distribution: rec
Organization: Utah State University

In article <YOUNG.92Nov6103420@kuwait.whizkids>, young@whizkids (Mark Young) writes:
> 
> I am interested in putting a 5spd manual transmission in a `61
> Chevy Truck.  I currently have a 3spd manual which causes the 
> truck to run at high RPM's during highway driving.  I would 
> love to convert to a 5spd manual.  I suspect that the 5spd 
> manuals that Chevrolet has been putting in there full sized
> trucks the last few years might work (with a few mods).  Can
> anyone tell me where to start.  How can I determine bolt pattern,
> transmission length, etc.  Are there books that might give 
> me adequate cross reference data?  Has anyone seen an article 
> concerning this mod?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mark Young

    Hi I'm in Utah and I think I can help you.  I put a chevy 350 and 4spd
transmission into a 62 international scout.  There are two types of chevy 4
spds. before 69'(10 inches long) and 69' to date (12 and a half inches long)
the only difference between the two is the diameter of the hole in the
bellhousing.  I understand that 5 spds work the same.  So all you need is the
correct bellhousing, flywheel, clutch, and starter(which with chevy are pretty
much all the same) to go with whatever tranny you want. the bellhousing to
engine bolt pattern has been the same on chevy small blocks and vortex 6's for
40 years so dont worry about that.  I hope that this helped a little.


joe