HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: chinn@rosencrantz.osf.org (David Chinn)
Subject: Re: Fine woodworking wants in....
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 17:40:27 GMT

In article <1993Jan12.143503.26602@ulysses.att.com> smb@research.att.com (Steven Bellovin) writes:

>> >Could someone tell me how you can become a subscriber with just
>> >a phone line?
>> 
>Or run your own netnews machine.  It's easy if you have a UNIX machine,
>but I think you can do it with a PC as well.  All you need is a site
>willing to feed you -- and amongst the collective readership of this
>group, I doubt it will be hard to find a volunteer.  (Btw -- tell them
>about misc.consumers.house, too; they also publish Fine Homebuilding.)

doesn't uunet still sell hookups?  With a fast modem, and a
telephone line (as well as a news machine)  you'd be in business.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stevep@sparky.se.hou.compaq.com (Steve Pinn)
Subject: Re: Need Pinewood Derby Track plans
Organization: Compaq Computer Corporation
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 18:37:14 GMT

In article <8090024@hpfcdc.fc.hp.com>, rer@hpfcdc.fc.hp.com (Rob Robason) writes:
|> kopfj> Check with your local scout office.
|> 
|> Yes, I already have the one in the "Cub Scout How To" book, but it's
|> pretty sketchy and very primitive.  I'm looking for more of the Cadillac
|> version.
|> 
|> Rob

Rob, there is a scouting group on the Net, perhaps they can help as well.

Steve
From: richard@TIS.COM (Richard Clark)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Power Switch on RAS ???
Date: 11 Jan 93 20:11:38 GMT
Reply-To: richard@TIS.COM
Organization: Trusted Information Systems


In article <1993Jan11.181736.22456@mloeff01.cpchq.cpc.gmeds.com> you write:
>Confessions of a Ryobi RAS junkie:
>
>[stuff deleted] [good advice, actually]
>  And DON'T EVER, EVER, EVER try to cut pressure-treated 2 X 6's that
>are still wet in the middle.

	??? Why not ??? As I would have most assuredly have tried this, and
likely will... could you tell me what to expect????....


-----------------------Relativity Schmelativity-----------------------------
 Richard H. Clark				My opinions are my own, and
 LUNATIK - watch for me on the road...		ought to be yours, but under
 It's not my fault... I voted PEROT!		no circumstances are they
 richard@tis.com				those of my company...
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: scot@fc.hp.com (Scot Heath)
Subject: Re: Auto-transformer
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 23:46:00 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Fort Collins Site
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.8 PL6]

Steven Johnson (stevenj@microsoft.com) wrote:
: 
: I recently came across an old auto-transformer in my pile of strange
: left-overs.  I started wondering if I could use it as a variable speed
: control on tools with universal motors (like my drill, router, sabre saw,
: etc.)
: 
: This thing accepts 120V current and outputs anywhere from 0 - 120 V
: current.  If I use it to control a universal motor, will it hurt the
: motor?  

Nope, it will do just fine assuming you don't exceed the current rating of
the transformer.


: Will it also work to control inductance motors?

Nope.

-Scot
From: meltsner@crd.ge.com (Kenneth J. Meltsner)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: WARNING (response to...)
Date: 8 Jan 93 14:08:36 GMT
Reply-To: meltsner@crd.ge.com
Distribution: na
Organization: GE Research and Development Center



In article <4107@ecicrl.ocunix.on.ca>, clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
(Chris Lewis) writes:

|>Unfortunately, square drive drywall screws are hard to come by.
|>Even here, where robertsons were invented - robertsons so dominate
|>the market that only specialty items having to be obtained from the
|>States come in phillips.  They should bar them at the border ;-)

McFeeley's (800-443-7937, US) specializes in square drive screws,
although they sell random other woodworking stuff.  I was very pleased
with #10 Nibs (self-countersinking) screws I bought from them, as well
as the associated drivers, etc.  The random stuff doesn't appear to be
as good a deal.

They sell square drive drywall screws coiled in a carrier strip for an
automatic-feed screwgun ($400-600).  They claim the strips are nice
even if you don't have a feeder since they minimize handling.  A
carton (3 or 4 K) runs from $55 to $136 depending on threading,
length, etc.

They also sell finish trim screws with tiny square drive heads and
other oddities.  I'm definitely a convert to square-drive -- my latest
bookcases take about a 100/case -- and I'm just waiting for my old B&D
cheap drill to burn out so I can buy a high-end drill with a clutch.

Disclaimer: one order so far, although I'd certainly re-order from
them.

ObWoodworking Tip: driving screws really heats up your drill.
Periodically run it unloaded for 15-30 seconds to cool it off --
there's a little fan inside that's only effective at full rpm.

===============================================================================
Ken Meltsner                        | meltsner@crd.ge.com (518) 387-6391
GE Research and Development Center  | Fax:  (518) 387-6474
P.O. Box 8, Room KWD270		    | Nothing I say should be attributed
Schenectady, NY 12301               | to my employer, and probably vice-versa
"It's probable, just not very likely." -- Fire Maidens From Outer Space.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: theresa@cognex.uucp (Theresa Carilli)
Subject: Plans for Tile Top Table
Organization: Cognex Corp., Needham, Mass
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 15:30:30 GMT

Can anyone point me to a source for plans for a tile top dining
table?

Thanks, 

Teri

cognex!heicinda!theresa@ai.mit.edu

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: james@wrs.com (James Moore)
Subject: Where to mail order tools?
Reply-To: james@wrs.com
Organization: Wind River Systems
Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1993 06:51:17 GMT

OK, I've got the list of phone numbers and addresses for mail order
tool sellers, but I have no idea what the reputation on any of them is.
Are there particuarly good places to shop, or places to beware of?
My experience with mail ordering equipment has been with camera 
places, which vary widely in quality, from really good down to totally
sleazy.  I'm assuming that the same thing exists in the discount
mail order tool business, and I'd really like to avoid the sleazes.

-- 
James Moore                            /|\                        james@wrs.com
Wind River Systems                     \|/                  Alameda, California
	 "Half of what he said meant something else, and the other half
			  didn't mean anything at all"
From: tlp00@ras.amdahl.com (Tibor Polgar)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Cutting tenons on a table saw
Date: 13 Jan 93 00:12:04 GMT
Reply-To: tlp00@ras.amdahl.com
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

I know this discussion started out with a table saw but now that its gone to routers...

For cutting tenions in long boards with power tools, may i suggest a RAS.  Since what 
you want to do is a cross cut operation,  thats what they do best.
use a nice dado blade, stop block for length, and cut away.   The only tricky part is it takes a tad more setup to ensure the depth of cut is correct.   

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Tibor L. Polgar    |  (408) 746-8649     | tlp00@climb.ras.amdahl.com
| Amdahl Corporation
| 1250 East Arques Avenue (M/S 281)
| P.O. Box 3470
| Sunnyvale, CA 94088-3470
|
| The opinions expressed above are mine, solely, and do not in any way
| shape or form reflect the opinions or policies of Amdahl Corp.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: kl@cveng120.veheng.det (Keith L)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Cutting tenons on a table saw
Date: 12 Jan 93 13:40:45 GMT
Reply-To: kl@cveng120.veheng.det
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.

In article ZRu8wB3w164w@thinker.thinker.com, rick@thinker.thinker.com (Rick Yazwinski) writes:
>I've had a question about this technique for some time now.  What do you 
>do if you have to cut a tenon at the end of a long board (say 8' or longer)? 
>It seems to me that this would be to unweildy to cut vertically (not to 
>mention the ceiling you'd need).
>
Use a router with a home-brew tenoning jig.  I used some good jigs of this type shown in Woodsmith and ShopNotes magazines.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: tonyb@juliet.ll.mit.edu ( Tony Berke )
Subject: Re: WARNING (response to...)
Organization: M.I.T. Lincoln Lab - Group 43
	<1993Jan5.212034.27717@informix.com>
	<1993Jan6.192856.8769@cbnewsh.cb.att.com>
	<1993Jan7.151029.5597@unislc.uucp>
Distribution: na
Date: 7 Jan 93 15:21:26

7In article <1993Jan7.151029.5597@unislc.uucp> jon@unislc.uucp (Jon Bork) writes:


   In article <1993Jan6.192856.8769@cbnewsh.cb.att.com> warren@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (warren.a.montgomery) writes:
   > < stuff deleted >
   >
   >Numerous minor cuts with chisels and screwdrivers.  Lessons: Avoid
   >cheap slotted screws...

   On the slotted screwdrivers, I've given up wherever I can.
   For all new woodworking I now use square drive screws and love
   them...


Just out of curiosity, what does a squar drive screw buy you over a
Phillips-head one?  I'm a real fan of drywall screws for general
hacking.  Do square-drives strip less easily in brass and other
soft metals?  That's my only complaint with phillips heads.

Thanks,

Tony
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ell@linus.mitre.org (Edward L. Lafferty)
Subject: Re: Cutting tenons on a table saw
Organization: Research Computer Facility, The MITRE Corporation, Bedford MA
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 19:34:23 GMT

In article <WOODWORK%93010415472946@IPFWVM.BITNET> CELLIS@BROCKVMA.BITNET writes:

   Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Path: linus.mitre.org!linus!enterpoop.mit.edu!eff!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!paladin.american.edu!auvm!BROCKVMA.BITNET!CELLIS
   Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
   Date:         Mon, 4 Jan 1993 15:37:27 EDT
   Sender:       Woodworking Discussions <WOODWORK@IPFWVM.BITNET>
   From:         CELLIS@BROCKVMA.BITNET
   Lines: 21

   Being fairly new, I have been building a workbench out of 2 by 4's and
   using mortise and tenon joinery.  Drilling the mortises with a 1/2" bit
   in my Shopsmith, and squaring them out with a 1/2" chisel was satisfying.

   In cutting the tenons, I ended up cutting the shoulders with the saw set
   to cut 1/2" deep and made four passes.  Then I set the saw blade to a height
   of 1 and 1/8", placed my rip fence so the edge of the blade kerf AWAY from
   the fence was 1/2" from the fence and made the four cheek cuts.

   My fear resulted from the bullet-like tendency of the cut outs shot back
   at me.  I had the foresight to stand to the side but was amazed at the
   loud "whack" on the wall when they came flying out.  Is there something I
   wasn't doing right (I assume)?   Any tips appreciated.   BTW the joints were
   great.

   ***********************************************************************
   Carlton Ellis                  *   BITNET CELLIS@BROCKVMA
   Administrative Computing       *
   State University of New York   *
   College at Brockport           *
   ***********************************************************************

When cutting to length using the rip fence as your guide ALWAYS clamp
an auxiliary block to the rip fence which does not extend up to the
blade. Use this auxiliary fence as your measuring guide; i.e., in your
case set the rip fence so the aux fence is 1-18" from the blade. The
cutoffs will drop harmlessly to the table (or may get kicked around a
bit by the blade but not at the force you get when they are jammed
between the blade and the fence -- i.e. stand to the side anyway).

--
Regards,
Ed

----------------------------------->>
External:                           Internal Mail addresses at MITRE: 
ell@mbunix.mitre.org			ell@mbunix
					ell@linus			                           
				                                      


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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 12 Jan 1993 08:44:48 -0500
From:         "Wile E. Coyote" <BBHULSEY@LIFE.UAMS.EDU>
Subject:      Solar Kiln

Greetings!

Mike Sieweke writes:

>If you are going so far as cutting your own lumber, I recommend the Wood
>Miser bandsaw mill.  My dad has one and it's a great little piece of
>engineering.  But you will also want a kiln.  Wood dries at a rate of
>about 1 inch per year in the air, and you probably don't want to wait
>that long.  A solar kiln can do a very nice job.

A solar kiln...what a great idea!  Mike, do you (or anyone else) have any more
information about this (plans, etc.)?

.......
:  o/ : Bruce Hulsey
: <|  : Univ. of Arkansas for Medical Sciences
: / > : internet: bbhulsey@life.uams.edu
:.....: bitnet:   bbhulsey@uams
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 4 Jan 1993 15:37:27 EDT
From:         CELLIS@BROCKVMA.BITNET
Subject:      Cutting tenons on a table saw

Being fairly new, I have been building a workbench out of 2 by 4's and
using mortise and tenon joinery.  Drilling the mortises with a 1/2" bit
in my Shopsmith, and squaring them out with a 1/2" chisel was satisfying.

In cutting the tenons, I ended up cutting the shoulders with the saw set
to cut 1/2" deep and made four passes.  Then I set the saw blade to a height
of 1 and 1/8", placed my rip fence so the edge of the blade kerf AWAY from
the fence was 1/2" from the fence and made the four cheek cuts.

My fear resulted from the bullet-like tendency of the cut outs shot back
at me.  I had the foresight to stand to the side but was amazed at the
loud "whack" on the wall when they came flying out.  Is there something I
wasn't doing right (I assume)?   Any tips appreciated.   BTW the joints were
great.

***********************************************************************
Carlton Ellis                  *   BITNET CELLIS@BROCKVMA
Administrative Computing       *
State University of New York   *
College at Brockport           *
***********************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jsharpe@bnr.ca (Jeffrey Sharpe) 
Subject: DeWalt Biscuit Joiner = ELU Biscuit Joiner? 
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, BNR-RTP 
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 19:18:26 GMT

For Christmas, my wife ordered me a DeWalt Biscuit Joiner from 
Woodworker's Supply.  They said they did not have any in stock
but will backorder it.

To my amazement, the sent me a confirmation stating that my 
"ELU Plate Joiner #33" will be sent on Jan 15th.

I called them up and told them my wife ordered a DeWalt not ELU.

They said they were exactly the same and that the DeWalt Joiner
is really the ELU.  Has anybody out there heard this?  If they 
are not the same should I stick with the ELU (Watching NYW, seems
that ole Norm uses the ELU).  After reading Wood's review for 
Biscuit joiners they sold me on the DeWalt but finding a DeWalt
Joiner around here has been a challange.

The DeWalt model number is DW682 and the ELU is 857378.  I could 
not find this model in Woodworker's Supply catalog so I cannot 
stare and compare.

Any comments would be appreciated!
From: kl@cveng120.veheng.det (Keith L)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Grizzly jointer pickup
Date: 7 Jan 93 22:06:21 GMT
Reply-To: kl@cveng120.veheng.det
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.


Over the last two years, I have picked up the following equipment using my car and/or utility trailer and have taken them down basement stairs by myself:

A Delta Contractor's TS  (265 lbs.)
An old cast-iron wood lathe (approximately 500 lbs.)
A Delta 14" Bandsaw (224 lbs)
A Delta Drill Press (194 lbs.)

I would not (could not!!!!) cart anything else like these tools if I was not able to break each unit down into manageable pieces and then use my Hand Truck (A.K.A. Appliance Dolly) to move them.  I did not have the dolly or trailer when I bought the TS.  Two healthy farmboys helped me load it into the back seat of my car (4D Pontiac 6000) as it would not all fit in the trunk.  We removed most of the pieces from the one big box and left only the main cast iron table assembly.  I then dragged the box out of 


the back seat and down into the basement.  I'm a big guy (6' 5", 250 lbs) but I treasure my back enough that I purchased the dolly to help me move other big, heavy things.  You could rent a dolly if need be.  (I got mine at an auction for $35.00)

The utility trailer was also a worthwhile investment both for hauling equipment and wood materials.  It has a 4 X 8 bed and folds up onto rollers to easily fit out of the way in a garage.  The $300.00 dollars it cost me was well worth the headaches saved in trying to figure out how to get 4 X 8 sheets of plywood and other lumber home.  (It beats trying to arrange for the use of a pick-up)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: gcohen@mailer.cc.fsu.edu (Gregory Cohen)
Subject: Re: Cutting tenons on a table saw
Organization: Florida State University
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 93 14:23:20 GMT

I cut tenons on my table saw with a dado blade.  I've stopped using my expensive
Delta extreamly heavy tenoning jig because not only have I had problems with
accuracy, but I am limited in my board length to my ceiling height (wich is not
to tall).  Long boards on a tenonning jig tend to be unstable.  I just make 
four passes over my dado with the board clamped to my miter.  I start the cut
with my board pressed up to a spacer that I've attached to my ripfence.  This
assures that all of the boards start from the same point.  I am sure that this
spacer ends before the blade contacts the wood.  (to avoid the hazard of getting wood bound between a push fence and a rip fence)  Angled tenons are produced 
in one of three methods.  I either reset the jig in mirror image on the other
side of the blade, or I build another jig (this is good for production work
and larger runs.)


           ------------------------------------------------------
           |            ||                 ||                   |
           |            ||                 ||                   |
           |            ||                 ||                   | 
           |            ||      /--\       ||                   |
           |            ||      ||||       ||                   |
           |            ||      ||||       ||                   |
           |          -----------  ------------                 |
           |          |         |  |          |                 |
           |          |  \      |  |       /  |                 | 
           |          |    \    |  |     /    |                 |
           |          |      \  |  |   /      |                 |
           |          |        \|  | /        |                 |
           |          |         |  |          |                 | 
           |          |         ----          |                 |
           |          -------------------------                 |
           ------------------------------------------------------

My wooden jig rides both of the slots for my push fence stradiling the blade.
The dado blade rides down a slot in the center of this stradiling board.  The
wood that is to be tenonned is clamped to two boards that I have precisly 
attaced to the board with the aid of a protractor.  The non-angled cuts I
make with the previous jig.  I use a tenonning attacment to my drillpress
for the tennons.  I mostly use blind tenons.  


-GReg Cohen
gcohen@mailer.cc.fsu.edu
From: twl10@ccc.amdahl.com (Tom Littauer)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Simple problem, solution needed
Date: 8 Jan 93 18:52:17 GMT
Reply-To: twl10@JUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Tom Littauer)
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

In article <C0IsAC.3p2@athena.cs.uga.edu> mcovingt@aisun3.ai.uga.edu (Michael Covington) writes:
>
>  Saber saw -- Again, hard to position if the wood is smaller and
>    lighter than the saw; also somewhat hard to get a straight cut.

Perhaps you can rig a jig to clamp your saber saw into, thus giving you
a mini-tablesaw for not much bucks.
-- 
Tom Littauer at Amdahl M/S 278, PO Box 3470, Sunnyvale CA 94088-3470 USA
+1 408 737 5056     twl10@juts.ccc.amdahl.com     twl10@amail.amdahl.com
I'll tell you when I'm speaking as Amdahl's Spokesman - usually I'm not.
V'z n fgrnygu-grpuabybtl rapelcgrq .fvtangher ivehf - TBGPUN!!!
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: animal@rtp-nc.mentorg.com (ANIMAL)
Subject: Re: If you were going to start a small wood sh
Summary: 
Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1993 19:18:14 GMT
Reply-To: animal@rtp-nc.mentorg.com
Organization: Mentor Graphics Corporation
Keywords: 
Followup-To: 

I would include a Long side sander (For edges, etc), a 
random orbit sander for finishing, and a stroke sander 
for sanding large flat surfaces. (I find that as a percentage
of time, most of my time is spent finishing (i.e. sanding) 
projects, not cutting to size.

Not sure what you mean by a table router, but if I were
in production, I would probably use a shaper. Even with 
a shaper, I would find a router indespensible.
---
________________________________________________________
000 000
(_) (_)    animal@rtp-nc.mentorg.com
________________________________________________________
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     ^      |\   || |_  _| |\    /|      ^      ||
    /^\     | \  ||   ||   | \  / |     /^\     ||
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//       \\ ||   \| |____| ||    || //       \\ |______|
________________________________________________________

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: WARNING (response to...)
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 18:02:21 GMT

Jon Bork writes
> I spent some time wondering about the safe way to make a cut
> when the cut is too small for the guard and the fence. My Delta
> guard requires that my Biesemeyer fence can't be set less than 
> 3/4" from the blade. I was cutting a featherboard with 1/8" 
> feathers.

With the fence so close to the blade, you could rig up a guard that's 
mounted to the fence, like on a router table. There are also numerous
overhead guards available, or you can construct your own. There's a
couple pages on this in Scott Landis' The Workshop Book.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
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