From: rjm@cs.brown.edu (Ralph Johnson Marshall)
Subject: rec.models.railroad Fortnightly FAQ
Followup-To: rec.models.railroad
Supersedes: <rec-models-rail_726732901@tahiti.cs.brown.edu>
Organization: Brown University Department of Computer Science
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 06:15:10 GMT
Expires: Mon, 22 Feb 1993 06:15:04 GMT

Archive-name: model-railroad-faq

This is the rec.models.railroad list of Frequently Asked Questions
(FAQ).  It is maintained by Ralph Marshall (rjm@cs.brown.edu)  All
contributions and corrections are welcome, but I'm ultimately
responsible for what appears here.  Contributors are acknowledged at
the end of the file.

New material since last posting:

Definition of MOW equipment
  
Definitions
-----------

Q. What does prototype mean?

It has several meanings, but typically refers to real-world trains
(in contrast to scale models of them).  Also called 12"-to-the-foot.
However, it can also mean the first item in a series, which meaning is
often applied to equipment built as tests by real railroads.

Q. What is the difference between scale and gauge?

Scale is the ratio between the model and the prototype; for example, N
scale is 1/160th of the size of the real world.  Gauge is the distance
between the inside faces of the two rails.  Standard gauge in the
United States and most of the British Commonwealth is 4'8.5", with 3'
and 2' as fairly common narrow gauges.  Note that this standardization
did not exist when railroads were first being built, causing excessive
delays when people and freight had to transfer between railroads with
incompatible gauges. 

Q. What sizes (actually scales) do models come in?

The standard scales, listed in approximate order of popularity, are:

HO	1/87 (actually 3.5mm to the foot, or 1/87.1)
N       1/160 (1/152, 2mm per foot in the UK)
O       1/48 (but see below)
G       1/22.5 or 1/24, or whatever the manufacturer decides
S       1/64
OO      1/76.2 (4 mm to the foot, mostly used in the UK)
Z       1/220
No. 1   1/32 
TT      1/120 (common scale in the former GDR, only produced by Zeuke in
               Berlin)

By design, this list only includes the common scales which most
beginning modelers are likely to run into. There are many other scales
and variations in scales (for example, OO is slightly different in the
US but virtually nobody uses it here), but this is a list of
_frequently_ asked questions, not an exhaustive (and thus difficult to
read) compilation of every scale known to exist.

People build models in other (typically larger) scales, but they tend
to be mostly scratchbuilt.  1/8th scale (1.5" to the foot) is a common
size for outdoor models large enough to carry people.

In O scale, track has been traditionally laid to scale 5'0" gauge
instead of standard.  O scale modelers divide into four groups
according to how they handle the discrepancy between gauge and scale:

 a. most O scalers live with the discrepancy.
 b. some model at 1/45 scale, keeping the traditional O gauge.
 c. some model at 1/48 (known as Proto:48) and narrow the traditional guage
    to standard, but these models will not interoperate with the first
    two groups.
 d. European modellers use 7mm/ft, with 32mm track gauge (the fine scale
    folks use 33mm). 32mm gives a scale gauge just less than 4ft 7in, and
    33mm gives marginally over 4ft 8.5in.

Also, there is a sharp distinction between 0-scale trains/layouts, and
O-gauge tinplate trains. The trains made by Lionel and other toy
manufacturers are called "tinplate" (for historical reasons) and run
on 3-rail track.  The original track has a rounded head and very tall
rails (hence the term "hi-rail" is also used), although much more
prototypical track is now made for 3-rail locomotives.  They typically
use AC propulsion power. Confusion arises because both use "0 gauge",
1 1/4" between the rails. 0-scale models are built to 1/4" scale and
typically are models of particular prototypes. Tinplate models are
typically made to a somewhat smaller scale and are often 'generic',
i.e., they generally represent no one prototype, but rather give the
general impression of a number of real trains.  Some more expensive
tinplate trains are prototypical, and this is a increasing trend.

Q. What is HOn3 scale?

This is HO scale equipment (1/87th) running on narrow gauge rails
spaced 3 feet apart. Narrow gauge in other scales is represented in a
similar fashion. There are similar notations for models whose gauge is
based on non-English measurements, such as HOm (HO scale, one-meter
gauge) and HOe (HO scale, 0.75 meter guage), as well as HOn30, which
indicates 30" (2.5') gauge.

Q. What do scratchbuilt and kitbashed mean?

These terms have somewhat vague boundaries, but basically indicate
that a model was not built directly as suggested from a kit.
Scratchbuilt usually means starting with wood, cardboard, plastic, or
other basic materials and then designing and cutting all of the
necessary pieces.  Kitbashing refers to starting with one or more
commercial kits but assembling the pieces in a different fashion,
often adding other material or recutting the original pieces.  Both of
these methods allow you to build models for which no kits are
available.

Q. What is a traction layout?

The term as used in model railroading refers to streetcars, trolleys,
and electric-powered interurban lines.

Q. What is hydrocal?

This a plaster product commonly used for creating terrain.  The
easiest sources seem to be model railroad stores, since I've yet to
find a building supply store that has any idea what I want.  The
advantage of hydrocal is that it is very strong once it sets up, as
opposed to plaster which needs something underneath it to support it
even after it dries.  Hydrocal needs support while setting but
cardboard strips do just fine.  Regular plaster requires chicken wire
and wood supports for shaping -- it's a lot more work, and a lot more
weight.

Q. What is a rerail frog?

A. A rerail-frog is a kind of a metal ramp thing that is used to help
re-rail a car or engine that has gone off the track but not wandered
too far away or overturned.  It is temporarily spiked, wedged or
clamped next to the rail at the wheel that needs to be lifted back
over the rail and then the car is pushed or pulled by the engine to
get the wheel to ride up over the ramp and back onto the track.
Typically in branch line service you would see these dangling from the
sides of the tender along with some chains or cables.  More tools
including jacks, levers, wrenches for splice bolts and so on might be
kept in the caboose or stashed on the engine.

Q. What is a winterization hatch?

A. A hatch or cover used to cover up or close off the normal
ventilation for oil-coolers, air-coolers or excess fan/radiator area
for exterme cold weather.

Q. What is a Maintenance of Way (MOW) car?

These are "non-revenue" cars (so-called because they are not used to
service paying customers) used by the railroad for upkeep on the
track, roadbed, and surrounding infrastructure.  These are typically
older or damaged cars no longer suitable for high-speed work.  They
include things such as cranes, ballast cars (converted hoppers used to
spread gravel between the ties), tie cars, rail cars, etc.  Since they
are usually fabricated by the shop crew out of whatever is available
they come in a wider range of styles than ordinary cars.

Organizations
-------------

Q. What is the NMRA?

This is the National Model Railroaders Association.  They set
standards, host conventions, and generally promote the hobby.
Memberships are available, with discounted rates for students.
 
NMRA, Inc.
Headquarters Office
4121 Cromwell Rd.
Chattanooga, TN 37421
(615)892-2846
 
Q. What is NTRAK?

This is a national organization devoted to modular railroading in N
scale.  They publish a set of standards for modules which can be
connected to each other.  Clubs can use this standard to allow members
to build modules at home and then connect all of them into a large
layout during meetings.  There are similar organizations in the other
scales but none of them seem to have the same widespread acceptance.

Jim FitzGerald, editor 
NTRAK
2424 Alturas Rd.
Atascadero, CA 93422  
(805)466-1758

Books
-----

Note: there are MANY books dealing with railroading, both model and
prototype, historical and contemporary, various regions, etc., and we
simply don't have space for an exhaustive list.  I'd like this to be a
short (~20 entries) list of basic books to get somebody started.  A
one paragraph review would be most helpful.

****************

"Track Planning for Realistic Operation" by John Armstrong
Published by Kalmbach, [I don't have the price handy]

This is an excellent softcover book which introduces you to the issues
involved in trying to design your own layout.  It discusses enough of
prototype railroading to explain why certain track configurations are
common, and how you can incorporate compressed versions in your
layout.  This has been widely recommended by many people and should be
considered a must-read for somebody setting out to build a layout. 

****************

"Steam Locomotive Cyclopaedia", published by Kalmbach.

This is a large (coffee table size) softbound book with a blue cover.
They publish a Diesel locomotive companion as well. You should be able
to find this book advertised in a "Model Railroader" or a hobby shop
with an interest in model railroading. A good book with photos and
drawings (most of which are in HO scale).

****************

Magazines
---------

The following is a list of magazines which carry articles of interest
to model railroaders.  Model Railroader and Railroad Model Craftsman
seem to be available in most of the hobby stores I've been to; the
others depend partly on where you live and partly on how good the
store is.

****************
Canadian Railway Modeller
N. Kildonan RPO Box 28103, 1453 Henderson Highway
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada R2G 4E9
(204) 668-0168 Voice/Fax
$23.54 for 1 year (6 issues) Inside Canada, $28.00 Outside Canada
Focusses on Canadian prototypes and Canadian modellers.

****************
The Home Shop Machinist (6)
Dept z-20, Box 1810, 
Traverse City, MI., 49685
800-447-7367

****************
Eisenbahn Amateur
Buhler Druck AG
Postfach
CH-8027 Zurich 
Switzerland

89.- CHF/year international (add 40.- CHF for air mail)

This magazine  is mostly in German,  with some articles in French.  It covers
mainly Swiss railways  (SBB/CFF and private-owned ones).  It has only a small
modeling section.

****************
Garden Railways 
PO Box 61461, 
Denver, CO 80206

Phone and Fax (303) 733-4779
[I've been informed that there is a widget to figure out what the
incoming call is]

Published bimonthly for US$21
(US$28 Foreign) per year.

****************
Loco Revue
Editions Loco Revue SARL
BP 104
F-56401 Auray CEDEX
France

320.- FF/year international

This magazine is in French.  It covers mainly French railways (SNCF).  It has
a very good modeling section (how-to, detailing, electronics, ...).

****************
Model Railroader (monthly)
Kalmbach Publishing
21027 Crossroads Circle
PO Box 1612
Waukesha, WI  53187

Phone (800) 533-6644 (subscriptions, open 24 hrs) 
      (414) 796-8776 (editorial)
1 Yr. $28.95, $34.95 Canada, $39.95 Foreign.  Payable in US funds.
              (Canada add 7% GST to total)

****************
O Gauge Railroading (6)
POB 239F, 
Nazareth, Pa., 18064

This magazine is mostly about trains made to run on 3-rail tinplate
track, such as Lionel, K-Line, Weaver, and Williams. It contains less
material about 2-rail scale trains.

****************
0 Scale News  (4)
P. O. Box 51
Elmhurst, IL, 60126

0 Scale News is *the* magazine among 0 scale modelers.

****************
Railroad Model Craftsman (monthly)
Subscription Dept. 2610
Box 700
Newton, NJ  07860

Phone (201) 383-3355
1 yr. $25, 2 yrs. $47, 3 yrs. $67, Canada add $6/year, foreign $8/year

****************
Trains (monthly) 
Same ordering address and phone number as Model Railroader

Deals exclusively with real railroads, both contemporary (the main
emphasis) and historical.

1 Yr. $28.95, 2 Yrs. $55 3 Yrs. $78 Extra postage: Canada $17.75 
Mexico $18.50 Europe and South America $36.15 Central America $26.20
All other foreign coutries $46.20.

****************

The following magazine listings are from the same source as the bulk
of the historical societies, with the same guarantee.  The number in
parentheses is the number of annual issues.  Corrigenda (and
reviews/summaries from readers) are always appreciated.

Bus World (4)
POB 17018, N. Hollywood, Ca., 91615

CN Lines
2488 Paige Janette Dr., Harvey, La., 70058

Diesel Era (6)
Withers Publ., 528 Dunkle School Road, Halifax, Pa., 17032
3.95/20

Electric Lines (6)
NJ International, 77 W. Nicholai St., Hicksville, NY, 11801
3.95/1950;36.75

Extra 2200 South (4)

Flimsies (26)
Western Lines Prod., POB 6776-W, Orange, Ca., 92613
1/25/49/72/88/100

Garden Railways (6)
POB 61461, Denver, Co., 80206, 303-733-4779

Journal of Container Transport (2)
c/o DG Casdorph, POB 2480, Monrovia, Ca., 91017

Journal of Passenger Transport (2)
c/o DG Casdorph, POB 2480, Monrovia, Ca., 91017

Journal of Railway Tank Cars (2)
c/o DG Casdorph, POB 2480, Monrovia, Ca., 91017

Key, Lock & Lantern (4)
Sandy Van Hoorebecke, 73 Pitch St., Bloomfield, NJ., 07003

Live Steam
Dept z-19, POB 629, Traverse City, Mi., 49685, 800-447-7367

Locomotive & Railway Preservation (12)
Dept. 50, POB 246, Richmond, Vt., 05477

Locomotive Quarterly (4)
Metaphor, Dept 1089T, POB 383, Mt. Vernon, NY, 10552

Maine 2-foot Modeler Newsletter (6)
6017 W. South Range Road, Salem, Ohio, 44460

Mainline Modeler (12)
Hundman Publ., 5115 Monticello Dr., Edmonds, Wa., 98026, 206-743-2607

Model Railroading (12)
Rocky Mountain Publ., 2854 Larimer St., Denver, Co., 80205
2.95/28

Motive Power Review (4)
c/o DG Casdorph, POB 2480, Monrovia, Ca., 91017

Motor Carrier & Truck Transport Journal (2)
c/o DG Casdorph, POB 2480, Monrovia, Ca., 91017

Narrow Gauge & Short Line Gazette (6)
Benchmark Publ., 399 Main St., los Altos, Ca., 94022

New Electric Railway Journal (4)
717 Second St. NE, Washington, DC, 20002, 202-546-3004
5.95/20

Northwest Railfan (12)
13118-163rd Av. SE, Snohomish, Wa., 98290

N Scale (6)
Hundman Publ., 5115 Monticello Dr., Edmonds, Wa., 98026, 206-743-2607

NTrak Newsletter
2424 Aturas Road, Atascadero, Ca., 93422

Pacific Rail News (12)
Interurban Press, POB 6128, Glendale, Ca., 91225, 818-240-9130

Passenger Train Journal (12)
Interurban Press, POB 6128, Glendale, Ca., 91225, 818-240-9130

Private Varnish (12)
Interurban Press, POB 6128, Glendale, Ca., 91225, 818-240-9130

Prototype Modeler (12)
POB 7032, Fairfax Station, Va., 22039-7032

Rail Classics (12)
POB 16149, N. Hollywood, Ca., 91304, 818-760-8983

Railfan & Railroad (12)
Carstens Publ., POB 700, Newton, NJ., 07860, 201-383-3355

The Railfan Photographer (2)
POB 2558, Littleton, Co., 80161-2558

Rail Model Journal (12)
Golden Bell Press, 2403 Champa St., Denver, Co., 80205, 303-296-1600

Railpace (12)
POB 927, Piscataway, NJ., 08854

Rails (26)
Texas-Wolverine Co., POB 50612/MS101P, Denton, Tx., 76206

Rail Services Update (52)
2110 Sheridan Dr., Madison, Wi., 53704

Rail Travel News (21)
POB 9007, Berkeley, Ca., 94709

The Scale Coupler (12)
Green Lantern Press, POB 7032, Fairfax Station, Va., 22039-7032

Scale Model Traction & Trolleys Quarterly (4)
c/o Vanishing Traction Prod., POB 04016, Milwaukee, Wi., 53204

"S"cale Railroading (5)
1446 Fremont Av., Los Altos, Ca., 94024

S Gaugian
Heimburger House Publ., 7236 W. Madison St., Forest Park, Il., 60130

Short & Narrow Rails (12)
POB 6579, Conton, Ohio, 44706

The Short Line (6)
POB 607-R, Pleasant Garden, NC., 27313

Sn3 Modeler (2)
7236 W. Madison St., Forest Park, Il., 60130

Timberbeast (4)
POB 3695, Eugene, Or., 97403

Traction (6)
POB 526, Canton, Ohio, 44701

Historical Societies
--------------------

A number of private (mostly volunteer) groups exist to help exchange
historical information about railroading.  Most, but not all, of these
clubs deal with defunct railroads, although many include information
about successor lines.  Note that many of these organizations are run
on a shoestring and thus may have moved or ceased operation since I
last wrote to them.  Also, if you write to ask for specific
information it is considered good form to either join the club or at
least send a small donation - the person answering your letter isn't
getting paid to do so.

The following listings have been sent to me recently are thus are more
likely to still be valid by the time you read this.

****************
Anthracite Railroads Historical Society
POB 119, Bridgeport, Pa., 19405 

Our (almost) quarterly magazine is called FLAGS, DIAMONDS, AND
STATUES.  This group focuses on railroads serving the anthracite coal
mining region of northeast Pennsylvania, with emphasis on:
   Central of New Jersey
   Delaware, Lackawanna, & Western
   Lehigh & Hudson River
   Lehigh & New England
   Lehigh Valley
   Reading

****************
B&O Historical Society
P.O. Box 13578
Baltimore, MD 21203

****************
Delaware & Hudson 
Bridge Line HS, Box 7242 
Capital Station, Albany, NY 12224

It's a fairly new society (2nd or 3rd year). Has a nice monthly "Bulletin."

$15.00 Regular
 12.50 Employee (of D&H Soo or CP Rail)
 20.00 Family
 17.50 Employee Family
 50.00 Corporate

****************

Monon RR Historical-Technical Society
c/o Ed Lewnard
410 S. Emerson St.
Mt. Prospect, IL 60056

Dues $15/20 year, back issues about $2.50 each.

****************
Pennsylvania Railroad Technical & Historical Society
PO Box 389
Upper Darby, PA  19082

They publish "The Keystone" quarterly, an excellent glossy magazine.
Magazine subscription only: $20/year, $25/year for Sustaining
Membership, $50/year for Contributing Membership.  $10/year extra
postage to foreign countries.  Back issues available.  They also offer
a photo list (although the turnaround is excruciatingly slow) and have
produced helpful and well-researched answers to several questions I've
asked. 

****************

Teen Association of Model Railroaders, 
c/o John Reichel, 1800 E. 38th St.
Oakland, CA 94602

****************

NOTE: Each year Model Railroader includes an extensive list of
railroad historical societies in the February issue.  It is bound to
be at least as accurate as the listings below, so get a copy if at all
possible.

The following information was sent to me as shown, and has not been
checked for accuracy.  It did include an out-of-date listing for the
PRRT&HS, so expect some of these to be wrong.  Please send any
corrections (including defunct groups) so that I can improve the value
of the list.

	RR Name (or region)
	Society/museum name,address,phone

General interest
----------------
California State RR Museum, 115 I St., Sacramento, Ca., 95814, 916-324-4724

Early American Railroading Group, POB 101-Z, Allegan, Mi., 49010

Early Piggyback SIG, c/o Mark Vaughn, POB 24223, Chicago, Il., 60690

Locomotives in Parks SIG, c/o Dick Nedrow, POB 501, Manchester, Wa., 98353

Mid-Continent Railway His. Soc., North Freedom, Wi., 53951, 608-522-4261

National Railway His. Soc., POB 58183, Philadelphia, Pa., 19102

National Trust for Historic Preservation, 
1785 Massachusetts Av. NW,
Washington, DC., 20036

RR Club of Chicago, c/o Richard C Young, POB 4920, Chicago, Il., 60680

RR Prototype Modelers, POB 7916, Laverne, Ca., 91750

RR Station HS, 430 Ivy Av., Crete, Ne., 68333

Railway & Locomotive HS,
c/o H Arnold Wilder, Treas.
46 Lowell Road, Westford, Ma., 01886

Society of Freight Car Historians
c/o DG Casdorph, POB 2480, Monrovia, Ca.,  91017-2480

Railroad Historical Societies
-----------------

Amtrak
POB 1019, Saint Johns, Az., 85936-1019

Ann Arbor (also Michigan Northern and Tuscola & Saginaw Bay)
POB 51, Chesaning, Mi., 48616

Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe
Santa Fe Ry HS, POB 92887, Long Beach, Ca., 90809-2887
Santa Fe Modelers' Org., 1704 Valley Ridge Road, Norman, Ok., 73072

Atlantic Coast Line / Seaboard Air Line
Southeastern RR HS 
c/o Joseph L. Oates
4007 Paddlewheel Dr., Brandon, Fl,. 33511

Boston & Maine
c/o Membership Secy., 
POB 2362, Harwood Staion, Littleton, Ma., 01460

Burlington Northern
c/o DG Casdorph, POB 2480, Monrovia, Ca., 91017-2480

Canadian National
(in Canada) Alf Goodall, 112 Mapleton Dr., Winnipeg, R2P 1C9, MB, Canada
(in USA) RD #1, Box 295, Alum Bank, Pa., 15521-9658

Central Vermont Ry
5806 Edith Court, Virginia Beach, Va., 23464

Chesapeake & Ohio
POB 79, Clifton Forge, Va., 24422

Chicago, Burlington & Quincy (also Colorado & Southern)
Burlington Route HS, POB 456, LaGrange, Il., 60525

Chicago & Eastern Illinois
POB 606, Crestwood, Il., 60445-0606

Chicago & Illinois Midland
c/o Shane Mason, POB 3882, Springfield, Il., 62708-3882

Chicago & Northwestern
c/o Lou Hamilton, 1519 S. Mohawk Dr., Roselle, Il., 60172

Chicago North Shore Line
Shore Line Interurban HS, POB 346, Chicago, Il., 60690

Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific
Rock Island Tech. Soc., 
c/o David J Engle, 8746 N. Troost, 
Kansas City, Mo. 64155

Colorado RR Museum, POB 10, Golden, Co., 80402

Colorado Midland 
1731 N. Cooper, Colorado Springs, Co., 80907

Conrail
Conrail Tech. Soc., POB 568, Maspeth, NY., 11378
Conrail HS, POB 1019, St. Johns, Az., 85936

Cotton Belt (St. Louis Southwestern)
POB 2044, Pine Bluff, Ar., 71613

Duluth, Missabe & Iron Range
Missabe HS, 719 Northland Av., Stillwater, Mn., 55082

East Broad Top
Friends of the EBT, POB 551, Riverside, NJ., 08075

East Tennessee & Western North Carolina
c/o John R. Waite, 604 N 11th, DeSoto, Mo., 63020

Erie Lackawanna
c/o Tim Stuy, 56-J Village Green, Budd Lake, NJ., 07828

Fonda, Johnstown & Gloversville
c/o Walt Danylak, 115 Upland Road, Syracuse, NY., 13207-1119

Great Northern (originally the Fraternal Order of Empire Builders) 
1781 Griffith, Berkeley, Mi., 48072

Gulf, Mobile & Ohio
POB 24, Chicago, Il., 60499

HJ Heinz
c/o Bill Dippert, 2650 NW Robinia Lane, Portland, Or., 97229-4037

Illinois Central
Membership Dept., c/o Jim Kubajak, 14818 Clifton Park, Midlothian, Il., 60445

Illinois Terminal
POB 251, Washington, Il., 61571

Illinois Traction
19 Sunset Acres, Farmersville, Il., 62533

Kansas City Southern
POB 5332, Shreveport, La., 71135-5332

Louisville & Nashville
POB 17122, Louisville, Ky., 40217

RR HS of Maine, POB 6647, Portland, Me., 04104

Maryland & Pennsylvania
Ma & Pa RR Preservation & HS, c/o George W Fitch Jr., 3609 Schoolhouse Lane,
   Harrisburg, Pa., 17109

Milwaukee Road
Milw Road Railfan's Assoc., 
c/o Wendell Murphy, 7504 W Ruby Ave., Milwaukee,  Wi., 53218-5458
Milwest (Milwaukee Road Lines West), 
c/o Ron Hamilton, 2506 SW Fissure Loop,
Redmond, Or., 97756-9486

Missouri & North Arkansas
M&A RR Museum, POB 44, Beaver, Ar., 72613

Katy RR HS, c/o Roy V Jackson II, 732 Via Miramonte, Mesquite, Tx., 75150

Missouri Pacific (also Texas Pacific)
MP HS, POB 187, Addis, La., 70710

New Haven (New York, New Haven & Hartford)
POB 122, Wallingford, Ct., 06492

New York Central
POB 745, Mentor, Ohio, 44061-0745

Nickel Plate Road
POB 44222, Cincinnati, Ohio, 45244

Norfold & Western
638 Jefferson St., Ashland, Ohio, 44805

Northern Pacific
c/o Duane D Durr, #10-32nd Av NE, Fargo, ND., 58102

Northwestern Pacific
POB 721, Larkspur, Ca., 94939

Ontario & Western
Box 713, Middletown, NY., 10940

Pacific Electric (also Los Angeles Railway)
Orange Empire Railway Museum, POB 548, 
Perris, Ca., 92370-0548, 714-657-2605

Piedmont & Northern
c/o Craig A Myers, POB 5481, Greenville, SC., 29606

Pittsburg, Shawmut & Northern
RD #1, Box 361, Alfred Station, NY., 14803

Reading (Philadelphia & Reading)
c/o Robert L Danner, POB 15143, Reading, Pa., 19612

Rio Grande Southern
POB 3358, La Mesa, Ca., 92044

Rutland
POB 6262, Rutland, Vt., 05701

Frisco Modeler's Interest Group, 
c/o Charles Dischinger, 2541 W Allen Dr., 
Springfield, Mo., 65810
Frisco RR Museum, POB 276, Ash Grove, Mo., 65604, 417-672-3110

Southern
c/o BF Roberts, POB 4094, Martinez, Ga., 30907
Southern Ry His Assoc., POB 33, Spencer, NC., 28159

Southern Pacific
SP H&TS, POB 2180, Huntington Beach, Ca., 92647

Soo Line H&TS, c/o Michael Harrington, Treas., 3410 Kasten Ct., Middleton, Wi.,
   53562

Spokane, Portland & Seattle
6824-19th W. #134, Tacoma, Wa., 98466

Susquehanna
POB 272, Netcong, NJ., 07857

Terminal RR Assoc (of St. Louis)
TRRA H&TS, POB 1688, St Louis, Mo., 63188-1688

(Three Rivers area [Allegheny, Monongahela & Ohio Rivers])
Three Rivers Narrow Gauge HS, 8 Cleveland Ct., Rockville, Md., 28050

Toledo, Peoria & Western
615 Bullock St., Eureka, Il., 61530

Union Pacific
POB 5653, Arvada, Co., 80005-0653

Wabash
c/o Vance C Lischer Jr., Secy., 535 Dielman Road, St Louis, Mo., 63132

Western Maryland
WM RR HS, Inc., Union Bridge, Md., 21791

Western Pacific
Feather River Rail Society, POB 8, Portola, Ca., 96122

Train sets
----------

Q. What should I buy as a gift for somebody who is new to the hobby?

(This answer is tailored to HO, since that's what I know about) 

The cheap packaged sets make by Bachman and Life-Like are not a good
way to get started in the hobby. The equipment is cheaply made and as
a consequence will tend to stall and derail frequently, and is also
likely to break early.  While you'll spend slightly more by buying
individual items, you can assemble a starter set from better equipment
and still spend under $100.  The following list is a suggestion of
specific items which will make a nice set for somebody new to the
hobby, either adult or 8+ year old child.

	- Athearn diesel locomotive with "superpower" drive. They make
	  a wide range of locomotives, so pick whatever looks good.
	  The "superpower" drive means it has flywheels and a heavy 
	  weight, both of which make it run better, and it only runs
	  about $5 more than the base models.  $26-33

	- Several Athearn car kits [very easy to assemble].  They make
	  both freight and passenger, so pick whetever interests you
	  (or the recipient).  Freight cars are $4-5, passenger $7.  
	  
	- MRC Tech II Railpower 1400 power pack. You'll need a few
	  feet of wire and an Atlas terminal track section to attach
	  it to the track. $41 (+ $2 for the terminal)

	- Enough Atlas Nickel-silver track to make an oval.  4 packs
	  of 18" curves and 2 packs of straight will do. $2.80/pack

	- A copy of Model Railroader magazine. The December issue
	  always has articles aimed at newcomers, but most issues will
	  have introductory-level articles. $2.95

	The stuff above will make the minimum starter set, for just
	over $100, depending on the engine and cars purchased.  If you
	want to go for something slightly more advanced consider
	adding some of the following items:

	- 2 or so Atlas Snap turnouts (track switches), $6 each
	  unpowered.  Get both left and right handed.
	
	- An Atlas pier set combined with one of their bridge kits.
	  To make an over-under figure-8 layout you'll also need
	  another package of curved track.  $10 for the pier set,
	  bridges are $4-10.

	- Some building kits.  The Atlas passenger station kit is a
	  classic kit which is well manufactured and can be built into
	  a nice looking kit with a little time.  Probably not too
	  good for a young child since it has lots of parts.  Kits run
	  $5-15 for simpler ones, much more in some cases.  Include
	  some Testor's liquid glue [in a cubical glass bottle.  The
	  thicker version in a orange/white tube is junk]  (also not
	  great around young children; for that matter, it give me a
	  headache sometimes) and an X-Acto knife. 
	
I have picked these items from personal experience - there are
undoubtedly equally good choices from other manufacturers.  Everything
listed here should be available at most hobby stores which carry train
equipment. Your best bet is to find a hobby store which specializes in
model railroads and tell them you want to assemble something like
this.  They should be able to show you the items listed here as well
as alternatives which you might prefer.

Q. What should I buy if I'm willing to spend more money?

Higher quality locomotives can be purchased from Atlas, Stewart, and
KATO (who make the mechanisms for some other brands as well).  These
models run very well, have more accurate and refined details, and will
cost about $100 for a single locomotive.  Life-Like has a premium line
called "Proto 2000" and Bachman has one called "Spectrum" which offer
medium level products in the $50-75 range.

In addition to Athearn, MDC (Model Die Casting, also known as
Roundhouse) makes good quality kits in the $5-10 range, and they are
about as easy to find as Athearn.  They make more of the modern
equipment than does Athearn.

Peco makes better quality track switches, for about $15 unpowered.
They have a spring which keeps the switch rails firmly in the selected
position and an under-table power unit which is easy to install
(although you have to cut a hole in the table).  They come in
"Electrofrog" and "Insulfrog" versions - the Electrofrog ones are
"power routing," which means that the track power only flows in the
direction the switch is set.  This can make it much easier to wire
stub sidings in a block scheme, since you don't need a separate block
for the siding.  Insulfrog ones work the way most other switches do.

Q. What if I just won the lottery?

Brass models are regularly imported by a small collection of companies
based in Japan and South Korea.  These are limited run (~100 units)
models of specific prototypes, hand-made from brass.  They are usually
delivered unpainted but some runs offer factory painted units at an
extra cost.  The majority of these models are of locomotives, with
steam more abundant than diesel or electric.  Passenger cars and
cabooses are also fairly common, with occasional freight and
maintenance-of-way cars offered.  The main appeal of these models is
that well-made ones will be exact models of particular prototypes with
a high level of detail.  They also come with high quality drives,
something quite difficult to find in cheaper steam locomotives.

The cheapest brass locomotives in HO are offered by Sunset Ltd., with
most models in the $200-300 range.  They are reportedly good runners
with a fairly low level of detail.  Highly detailed models are offered
by the other importers, with steam prices in the $450-1000+ range,
diesels in the $200-400+ range. O scale models can run twice as much
as these prices. The best bet is to find either a local dealer or a
reputable mail-order importer who can advise you on what looks good
for the money.

Most of these items are sold by advance reservation, so by the time
the model actually arives there may not be any left for sale. The
models are advertised in advance of production so that you can place
an order in time. Used models can be purchased and can be a good value
if purchased from a reputable dealer who is honest about the quality.

Q. How come the affordable suggestions only include diesel engines?!?

In general, steam engines are more expensive than their diesel
counterparts.  For example, the cheapest HO "ready-to-run" steam
engines cost about $100.  If you are the type who likes to build kits,
the cheapest steam engine kit costs about $70 dollars.  Below is a
short description of several popular steam engine brands.  The prices
in square brackets are mail order prices provided by a second contributor,
so may not be for the exact same models.

Bachman: Sold as "ready-to-run" units, these engines usually cost
about $100 [$25 - $55 (RTR)].  The bodies are plastic.  The running
characteristics of these engines vary a lot.  If possible, see it run
before buying.  Bowser (Cary Logo. Works) sells a conversion kit for
these engines providing a new drive train, however this upgrade will
cost nearly as much as the original engine.

MDC/Roundhouse: Sold as kits, these engines usually cost anywhere from
$70 to $100 [$60 - $80 (kit)].  The boilers are metal, the cabs and
tender are plastic.  MDC makes smaller (and earlier-era) steam engines
(4-4-2, 2-8-0, Shay, etc.).

Bowser: Sold as kits, these engines usually cost anywhere from $80 to
$150 [$70 - $155 (kit), $120 - $170 (RTR)].  The kits are all metal --
very heavy.  The casts usually require a fair amount of filing to
remove any flash.  Running characteristics are good and the pulling
power is very good.  Bowser provides a number of PRR steam era engines
as well as a Challenger and a Big Boy.

Rivarossi: Formerly imported by AHM, these engines are sold
"ready-to-run".  They cost anywhere from $150 to $500 [$120 - $250
(RTR)].  The engines are all plastic.  One or more of the drivers has
a "traction tire" (rubber band) to keep the lighter weight engine from
slipping.  Running characteristics are good.  Rivarrossi makes a wide
variety of steam engines.

Mantua: [This is based somewhat on hearsay]  They seem to offer two
grades of equipment - the older designs such as the 0-4-0 switch
engine which are quite inexpensive ($20) but which run poorly, and
newer models such as the 4-4-0 Atlantic which seems like a very nice
model for about $120.  Some of the models come in kit form for less
money.

Q. What companies make good equipment in G scale?

[The description of G-scale equipment was written by John Haskey]

In my opinion, Bachman track should be avoided like the plague.  If
you don't want to spend big bucks on LGB track, check out the REA
track.  REA makes very decent track and is usually cheaper than LGB.
The Bachman track will do nothing but disappoint you.

On the other hand, the Bachman Locos and rolling stock are a very economical
way to get into G-scale railroading.  Their locos are noisier than their LGB
counterparts but consider this: a Bachman 4-6-0 can be had for as little as
$80 mail-order and it comes with lights, smoke, & sound.  A similiar LGB loco
will cost over $500.  Granted, the LGB loco will probably last a lifetime but
for someone getting started the Bachman loco represents a good value.  Make
sure you avoid the Bachman battery powered remote controlled locos though.
I have friends who have been less than thrilled with them.  Bachman's rolling
stock is serviceable out of the box and, as others have mentioned, can be 
vastly improved by replacing the trucks and couplers.  Their kits have great
potential for kitbashing, etc.

I personally own both Bachman and LGB and don't regret purchasing either
brand.  If you're rich and have disposable income, by all means go out and
get that LGB starter set, a few hundred feet of LGB track, and lots of cars
and locos.  On the other hand you could start with a loop of REA track, a
MRC throttle, and a Bachman train and be well on your way as well.

Introduction to diesel locomotives
----------------------------------

Q. I am trying to gain some very basic knowledge about diesel engines
   so that I can buy the models with some intelligence. Could someone
   give me the basic rundown of the different classes of diesel
   engines and what they were used for?

[This answer was edited from material written by Fred Ochs and later
augmented by various readers]

A. Locomotive manufacturers

	EMD:     Electro-Motive Division of General Motors
	         Before being bought by GM, it was EMC - Electro
	         Motive Corporation. 
	GE:      General Electric
	Alco:    Americal Locomotive Works
	Baldwin: Baldwin Locomotive Works

	Baldwin Locomotive Works was named after the "founding father"
	Mathias(?) Baldwin. In 1928 the Baldwin works moved from
	Philadelphia to nearby Eddystone, Pa. For a complete story of
	"the works", check the book _The Locomotives that Baldwin
	Built_ by Fred Westing pub. 1966 by Superior Publishing Co,
	Seattle Washington, also re-printed by Bonanza Books.

	Lima:    Lima-Hamilton
        BLH:     Baldwin,Lima,Hamilton

	The Lima and Hamilton plants were in towns of the same name in
        Ohio. These companies started out making steam locomotives.
	They never really succeeded in the transition to diesel, and
	even after merging eventually went out of business.) 

	MLW:     Montreal Locomotive Works
	The successor to MLW was Bombardier who built some MLW designs
	for a while in Canada.  The Montreal MLW/Bombardier plant is
	now run (owned?) by GE-Canada.  Bombardier still manufactures
	railroad passenger cars in Barre, VT.

        FM:      Fairbanks-Morse
	Also note that FM and Baldwin designs were built in Canada
	under license by CLC - Canadian Locomotive Company.

	Only EMD and GE are still producing railroad locomotives.

A. A few naming conventions.

Diesel locomotives are designated by the number of powered axles,
divided into trucks.  The letters A,B,C,D stand for 1 through 4 axles,
so an EMD FT (see below) with 2 trucks with two driving axles is a
B-B. Early locomotives were made with A1A trucks (2 axles, the center
one unpowered).

A units have a cab with controls for the engineer.
B units are basically A units with no controls.
Slugs are a cut-down frame filled with concrete.  They have only
   traction motors, and receive power from an attached engine.

A. Names of locomotives

EMD's first main model was the FT, which stood for FourTeen hundred
horsepower. (Commonly referred to as "the Diesel That Did It" since it
was the first practical replacement for mainline steam power.) 

It had 1350 HP(horse power) They were designed to be semi-permanently
coupled and sold usually as sets. (Initially most railroads numbered
them as one locomotive with unit designators such as A,B,C,D to get
around union rules requiring a full crew for each locomotive.) 

This was followed by the following engines: 
	F2A,F2B 1350HP
        F3A,F3B,F7A,F7B,FP7  1500HP 
	F9A,F9B,FP9 1750 HP 

The FP models were intended for passenger service, as they included a
steam generator at the rear of an extended body.  Passenger equipment
was originally built to use steam for heating (since they were pulled
by steam engines with a handy supply of it), so when diesels were
introduced separate steam generators had to be added for passenger
service.  Modern equipment no longer uses steam heat, removing the
need for extra equipment.

We also have the E unit, similar in appearance to the F unit, except
it has A1A trucks. They also have 2 diesel engines in them, to give them more
HP.  
	EA,EB,E1A,E1B,E2A,E2B 1800HP
	E3A,E3B,E4A,E4B,E5A,E5B,E6A,E6B,E7A,E7B 2000HP 
	E8A,E8B 2250 HP E9A,E9B 2400 HP

Before making the F7, EMD introduced a new model type, called the BL1
It stood for Branch Line, had 1500 HP, and had the same motor that the F7
and GP7 (which I will explain) did. They followed this by the BL2,
although it is argued what the change was. This engine had most of the
cab style, with notches along each side, that would allow the engineer
to see behind him better. 

This was followed by the GP7 (and concurrently produced with the F7)
The GP series stood for General Purpose, and had walkways along each hood.
It camein both passenger and freight versions. Passenger versions had a
steam generator in the short hood (typically called the nose) to heat the
passenger cars. This engine had B trucks and 1500 HP
here is a list of GP style engines:
	GP7 1500 HP
	GP9 1750 HP
	GP15-1 1500 HP
	GP18 1800 HP
	GP20,GP28,GP38 2000 HP
	GP30 2250 HP
	GP39 2300 HP
	GP35 2500 HP
	GP40, GP40P(*) 3000 HP
	GP40X 3500 HP
	GP50 3500/3600 HP
	GP60 3800 HP  (current model)

The next frieght style is the SD series, which stands for Special Duty.
These have C trucks, instead of B trucks, and are typically a lot heavier
then their GP counter part. here is a list of their models:
	SD7 1500 HP
	SD9 1750 HP
	SD18 1800 HP
	SD24 2400 HP
	SD28,SD38 2000 HP
	SD35, SDP35(*) 2500 HP
	SD39 2300 HP
	SD40,SDP40(*) 3000 HP
	SD45,SDP45(*) 3600 HP
	SD45X 4200 HP
	SD50 3500/3600 HP
	SD60 3800 HP (current model)
	SD70 4000 HP (newest model, in initial production)

Then there is the later F series, which was basically like the GP and
SD, but had cowling over the engine, instead of walkways. This cowling
is not part of the structural support, like the earlier F series.
These engines include: 
	F40PH 3000 HP standard Amtrak engine everyone knows and loves :) 
	F45, FP45(*) 3600 HP
	SD40F,SD50F and SD60F which are SD40,SD50/SD60's with cowling
		over them instead of walkways. Bought by Canadian RR's. 

(*) Passenger versions, as indicated by extra 'P' in number

Now to the switchers, another long list!  A switcher is typically,
small, lightweight, and has a cab at one end, and no nose, instead it
usually has large windows for visibility.  EMD started out with the NC
which had 900 HP, and was experimental.  then followed with the
following models: 

	SC,SW 600 HP 
	NC, NC1, NC2, NW, NW1, NW1A 900 HP 
	NW2,NW4 900 HP 
	SW1 600 HP 
	NW3,NW5 1000 HP 
	SW8 800 HP
	SW600 600 HP 
	SW900 900 HP 
	SW7 700 HP 
	SW9,SW1200 1200 HP 
	SW1000,SW1001 1000 HP 
	SW1500, MP15 1500 HP 
		(MP stands for Multi Purpose, still looks like a
		switcher though, and is the current production model)

The original names were derived as follows, although for example the
SW900 is a 900 HP version of the original SW.

SC - Six hundred horsepower, Cast frame
SW - Six hundred horsepower, Welded frame
NC - Nine hundred horsepower, Cast frame
NW - Nine hundred horsepower, Welded frame

The other odd model EMD produced was the DD series, which had DD trucks.
These were double ended diesels, and were roughly like 2 engines put
together in one. They had the following:
	DD35A,DD35B 5000 HP
	DDA40X 6600 HP
Only Union Pacific had the DDA40X and the DD35A.
Both UP and Southern Pacific had the DD35B

GE is a bit easier to describe. They started with the U series, which
stood for Universal. They are either B or C, based on the type of trucks.
All GE models use their HP in hundreds as part of the model designation,
along with the type of trucks and the engine series.
The U series had the following models:
	U18B 1800 HP
	U23B,U23C 2250 HP
	U25B,U25C 2500 HP
	U28B,U28C 2800 HP
	U30B,U30C 3000 HP
	U33B,U33C 3300 HP
	U36B,U36C 3600 HP

There was also a U50 and U50C which was a double U25, with either 2 sets of
B trucks on a span bolster (U50) or on C trucks (U50C)
Sometime in the late 70's (1977 I think) they dropped the U series, and
went to the -7 series, all models produced there after looked like this:
	B23-7,C23-7 2300 HP
	B30-7,C30-7 3000 HP
	B36-7,C36-7 3600 HP
	B32-8,C32-8 3200 HP
	B36-8,C36-8 3600 HP
	B38-8,C39-8 3900 HP (current model)
	B40-8.C40-8 4000 HP (current model)

They have also flipped the designation to DASH-8 40B and DASH-8 40C

There is also a modification on the current production of engines,
that being a cowl (like described before) or a safety cab.
For EMD's the wide nose is designated by adding an M after the model name
(like SD60M or GP60M) on GE is is a W, (Like CW40-8,DASH-8 40BW)
They also have the full width cowl with a W (DASH 8-40CW) bought only
by Canadian National and BC Rail (British Columbia Railway)

Most of this information is in the _Second Diesel Spotters Guide_ or
_Diesel Spotters Update_ 

Q. How does a diesel locomotive work?

A. Actually, this is a trick question.  Locomotives come in
diesel-electric, diesel-hydraulic, and as a test a steam-electric
engine was built.  The first part of the name indicates how the power
is generated and the second how it is transmitted to the driving
wheels.

The diesel engines are huge internal combustion engines (sometimes
more than one per locomotive), named after Rudolf Diesel who patented
the concept in 1892.  In a diesel-electric they are used to power
electric generators, and the electricity is used to drive electric
motors.  These are called traction motors and one is attached by a
gear system to each powered axle.

I don't know the details of how diesel-hydraulic engines work, but
basically something like an automatic transmission is used to connect
the diesel motors to the axles via driveshafts (I'm making this all
up, so feel free to correct me!)  It turns out to be very difficult to
build these to handle the large loads involved, so all modern
locomotives [in the United States - see below] are of the
diesel-electric variety.

Until 1980, there were still modern diesel-hydraulic locomotives built
by the Deutsche Bundesbahn in West Germany (three major series: the
good old two- motored 220/221 (V200), the light 211/212 with one motor
and the cab in the middle and the 215/216/217/218/219 with one
motor/two cabs for mixed service).  Today there are no diesel
locomotives built in Germany, because there are so many Russian or
Bulgarian diesel-electric engines from the Deutsche Reichsbahn (East
Germany). New diesel locomotives will be built in the diesel electric
technology with 3-phased AC transmission.

Finally we have the steam-electric.  I don't have the references in
front of me, but I believe the New York Central experimented with an
engine which looked like an F3 but which had a coal-powered steam
boiler which as used to run a generator, with the rest of the system
as in a diesel-electric.  This is even more speculative than the
diesel-hydraulic description, so don't bet any money on it.

Q. What are "dynamic" brakes

A. As described in the previous question, diesel-electric locomotives
have motors attached to each axle.  Normally power is supplied to the
motors causing the wheels to pull the train.  However, due to the
magic of electromagnetics, if the wheels are turned by an external
force (such as gravity pulling a train down a hill) the motors will
run as dynamos, generating electricity.  Since energy is conserved,
this electric power has to come from somewhere, which in this case is
the kinetic energy of the engine.  In simple English, running the
motors as dynamos will put a drag on the engine, which can be helpful
when running a very heavy train down a long grade.

The amount of electric power generated is substantial, and it has to
be used up somehow to cause a drag on the wheels.  This is done by
using a bank of resistors which convert the electricity to heat which
is then radiated away.  On EMD locos these resistors appear as a
bulging grille near the center of the roof. Alco, GE, FM, and BLW
locos with dynamics have extra grills somewhere on the loco, but no
bulges like the EMD "blister".  On older Alcos (like RS3's) and on the
Baldwin DRS/AS types, these grills were in the short hoods.

Model shells are often offered with these external indications of
dynamic brakes, although they of course have no function.  A given
prototype locomotive is usually available both with and without
dynamic brakes.

Q. How do steam locomotives work?

A. Another trick question!  I'm not really familiar with all of the
details, so I'm really writing this in the hopes of getting netters to
provide more authoratative answers.

Steam engines came in three basic varieties: reciprocating pistons,
geared drives, and experimental turbines.  All work by boiling water
to make pressurized steam, and the energy in this steam is used to
move the engine.  The earliest engines burned wood for fuel. Most
steam engines used coal, and towards the end of the steam era oil was
used, primarily to get around air pollution regulations.

In a reciprocating piston design the pressurized steam is sent into
expansion cylinders, which were usually mounted on the outside front
end of the frame.  The steam expands to push a piston back, and the
piston is connected via a crosshead to the main driving rods.  These
rods convert the linear motion of the piston to the circular motion of
the driving wheels.  There are many variations on this design, such as
using multiple cylinders to increase the amount of energy extracted
from the steam but they all fall into the category of improvements to
the basic design.  Note that once the steam has been used it is
exhausted to the atmosphere, which is why the tender on a steam
locomotive is mostly water and a relatively minor amount of fuel.
Note that this design with lots of exposed moving parts is also
significantly sexier than a diesel electric...

I have no idea how geared locomotives work - perhaps some logging
expert will write a few paragraphs on the issue?

As a PRR fan I will attempt to describe their turbine engines - other
experiments may have differed in the details.  As before steam is
produced, but rather than using pistons is was fed through a rotating
turbine which was directly geared to the driving wheels.  Apparently
the design did a fairly good job of producing power efficiently, but
the steam had minute particles of coal ash in it which rapidly
destroyed the finely balanced turbine blades, making it impractical to
maintain.  GE also produced such an engine, with the same problems.

Q. What is a "gas-turbine" locomotive?

A. General Electric produced several species of gas-turbines, as did
Baldwin.  These locos were basically the same as a diesel-electric,
except that the prime mover was a gas turbine.  The only successful
production models came from GE, all of which were sold to the Union
Pacific.  These came in essentially two types:

	- The first version was a 4,500 h.p. model introduced in 1949.
	  The prime mover was a GE gas-turbine which turned a
	  generator to provide current to eight traction motors.
	  Wheel arrangement was B-B + B-B, the same as the later U50.

	- The second model went into production in 1958.  
	  It consisted of two car bodies, a lead control unit and a
	  second unit containing a 10,500 h.p. GE gas-turbine.  Each
	  car body had two C trucks. At first, the two generators
	  attached to the turbine were rated together at 8,500 h.p.,
	  later uprated to 10,000 h.p. 

Thirty large turbines were produced by GE.  Compared to first
generation diesels, these machines were reliable. They consumed huge
amounts of "Bunker C," a thick black oil which was considered waste at
the time and was initially very cheap.  Heated tenders [to keep the
fuel from solidifying] were provided for each locomotive, custom made
from old steam tenders.  Bunker C became more expensive when it became
an ingredient for making plastics.  Increased fuel expense doomed the
gas-turbine, which could not operate with the fuel efficiency of the
diesel. [No way was ever found to cool the turbine blades like a
piston engine cooling system so the turbine had to operate at a lower
less efficient temperature than a diesel.] 

Gas-turbines were in revenue service roughly from 1950 to 1969.  None
of the first generation turbines remain.  At least one of the second
generation turbines is on display (in Ogden, Utah).

Gas-turbines have also been used in Europe. The SNCF (French National
Railway Society) introduced its Turbotrains ETG (Element a Turbine a
Gaz) and RTG (Rame a Turbine a Gaz), very noisy passenger units of
four to five wagons, in the sixties. They can reach 180 km/h and are
still in use as fast trains on the non-electrificated lines today. A
variant of the RTG is in use in Canada. The other European companies
have stopped their tests with gas turbine traction, because gas
turbines consume large amounts of fuel and produce a very loud high
frequency noise.

Track 
-----

Q. Nickel-silver vs. brass: what are the issues?

Nickel-silver is a copper-nickel alloy (mostly copper), considered to
be metalurgically similar to brass but superior in corrosion
resistance.  Brass oxidizes rapidly to a non-conducting surface, which
means that power will not reach the locomotives or cars, resulting in
stalls.  Both forms of track will accumulate other gunk on them,
requiring some form of cleaning.  In general, nickel silver is much
better than brass, and is worth the small extra cost.

The more recently developed alloys used in high-quality G scale track
are much less corrosion-prone.  Brass is sometimes favored over
nickel-silver for outdoor use, because it expands and contracts
somewhat less with changes in temperature.

Q. What does the number associated with a turnout mean?  What's the
difference between, say, a #4 turnout and a #6 turnout?

The number is based on the angle between the straight and diverging
tracks.  Skipping the exact definition, a #4 turnout is generally the
sharpest practical size and is equivalent to an 18" curve.  #6s and
#8s are more gradual and are typically used on larger layouts both
because they look more realistic and because longer equipment will
work better on them.

Traction models and models in the smallest scales (N and Z) can often
get good results with much smaller turnout numbers, down to #2.5 in
common usage.

Q. What does the "code" associated with track mean?

This is the height of the rail, expressed in thousandths of an inch.
Code 100 rail (common in HO) is 0.100 inches high.  This is equivalent
to prototype rail weighing 152 pounds per yard, which is larger than
almost all rail used by real railroads in the United States.  Advanced
modelers typically use rail sizes closer to that used on the
prototype, as shown below:

Nominal |   Mass   |  Scale   | Scale  |  Scale   |
Scale   |  Market  | Mainline | Branch |  Mining  |
---------------------------------------------------
G, #1   |  .330    |  .250    |  .175  |   .125   |
---------------------------------------------------
O       |  .175    |  .148    |  .125  |   .100   |
---------------------------------------------------
S       |  .148    |  .125    |  .100  |   .086   |
---------------------------------------------------
HO/OO   |  .100    |  .083    |  .070  |   .055   |
---------------------------------------------------
N       |  .080    |  .055    |  .040  |   n/a    |
---------------------------------------------------
Z       |  .062    |   n/a    |   n/a  |   n/a    |
---------------------------------------------------

Q. When handlaying track, how/when do you folks glue down the ballast?

Ballast is added in the same fashion for both handlaid and
prefabricated track. The roadbed is prepared and the track laid in
position using your favorite method before any ballast is added. The
method described below also works just as well for grass, dirt, etc.
in the rest of the layout.

There are several methods, but the basic idea is to spread the ballast
in place (I use a cheap 1" paintbrush to shape it), soak it with some
sort of wetting agent, and then flow a fixative into it.  Variants
abound - this is a FAQ in the model railroading magazines as well, so
look there for alternatives.

The most common wetting agent is tap water with a drop or two of
standard dishwashing liquid added to cut the surface tension (the
water will just bead up otherwise and won't soak the ballast).  This
can be sprayed on with a *fine* mister or carefully dripped on with an
eye dropper.  The most common fixative is a 50-50 mixture of white
glue and water, again with a drop of detergent.  This is dripped onto
the ballast and allowed to dry.  All of the water will evaporate, so
the ballast should be as wet as possible without floating it away;
otherwise you may just glue down a top crust which will chip away
later.

Q. Also, who makes good ballast material, and do you mix/combine
   several coarsenesses or make it uniform?  

Woodland Scenics is probably the most popular brand, but at least one
poster described it as looking like kitty litter; a bit harsh but not
far from the mark in my opinion.  Their finest grade should be used by
N and HO scales, and it's really too coarse for N.  

The other major source is actual rock.  You can just walk outside if
you live in the area you model, you can try the local quarry or gravel
operation to see if you can get a small sample, or you can order it
from several operations which advertise in the model railroading
magazines.  If you use real rock you must crush it, sift it to size,
and then remove any ferrous particles with a magnet.

Note that most real railroads use ballast that is available locally,
so the color of your ballast will differ based on the area modelled.
Most of it is a standard gray, but iron ore roads have a distinct
reddish hue, and RMC just finished a series about a marble quarrying
railroad which used marble chips!

Roadbed
-------
[The following description of Homasote was written by Gregg Fuhriman]

			My Experiences
			-------------- 
Homasote is a material made of densely compressed newsprint, and is
usually sold in 4' x 8' x 1/2" sheets.  It is also available to the
model railroad hobby as precut roadbed strips.  My experience is with
the large sheets, which I purchased from a building supply store.  In
1987, one sheet cost around 25 dollars.

I cut it into many 8' strips, using a rotary saw set at 45 degree
angle to get the "ballast slope".  The ascii drawing below shows an
edge-on view of how I cut the Homasote sheets:

			     |   |<---- wide enough for track
        ___________________________________________________________
	|\   /   \   /   \   /   \   /   \   /   \   /   \   /   \|
	-----------------------------------------------------------
			<---------- 4' ---------->

These strips were then used as-is for straight roadbed.  To make curves,
I cut dozens of kerfs crossways about 3/4 of the way through the strip and
about 1/2" apart.  The strip could then be "bent" into the desired curvature
by compressing the kerfs on the inside of the curve.  The purpose of this
exercise was to reduce wasted Homasote; it is not a cheap material.

The homasote strips were then glued to plywood sub-roadbed using carpenter's
glue and clamps.  I also drove small nails through the Homasote into the
plywood to help hold things in the right position while the glue dried.
Special shapes, like around switch stands, were shaped by hand using a
utility knife to carve the homasote.

		Summary of My Experience and Netter's Comments
		----------------------------------------------
Benefits of Homasote are that it holds spikes and nails well, and it is
a sound-deadening material to reduce train noise.  It glues easily, as it
is a porous material.  It is relatively "soft", so it cuts easily.

Cutting this material with a power saw generated piles of fluffy, gray
dust that went everywhere and proved to be a pain to clean up.  I
reccommend wearing a dust filter to avoid breathing in the dust and
fluff.  Cutting with a utility knife is neater, but more difficult and
tedious as the homosote tends to "grab" the blade (just as it "grabs"
spikes and nails).

Forming curves with the kerf-and-bend method was not 100% successful.
At least half the time the strip would break in two.  Also, the resulting
curve is not super smooth ... they are actually several short straight
sections.  Heavy sanding can smooth out some of this (but with more dust).

Other netters have suggested painting the Homasote with a latex paint to
help seal it against moisture (introduced mostly during ballasting, but
also to guard against ambient humidity).  Its dimensional stability with
respect to temperature and humidity has been panned, though I have not
noticed problems with my layout so far.

Layout planning software
------------------------

Q. Could someone please give me the name of the Abracadabra product
   that is like "flight simulator for trains", i.e., the one that lets
   you simulate being the engineer on a layout you program into it.
   There are several products on the market with similar sounding names
   and when I call around to try and find it at one of the local software
   houses I want to make sure that I'm asking for the correct one.

"Design Your Own Train" and "Run Your Own Train" are a pair of
programs that let you do what you say.  RYOT gives you a "hogger's eye
view" of the road; that is, the view is supposedly that which you
would see from the cab.

"Design Your Own Railroad" allows you to create a layout complete with
scenery, then run trains on the tracks.  You only get a bird's eye
view, though.

I personally have used DYORR, and recommend it.  I have not used DYOT
or RYOT, but have heard that they are less sophisticated products.  Of
course, if you are determined to have the flightsim-style view out the
windshield, RYOT is your only choice.

All three products are published by Abracadata software, (800)
451-4871.  It's cheaper to order the products from MicroWarehouse,
however:  (800) 367-7080.

[Editor's note: I've also seen advertisements for products which look
more like CAD packages tailored to model railroading.  A review would
be most appreciated.]

Painting
--------

While we don't have much on this subject yet, Model Railroader manages
to get a monthly column plus additional articles out of it each month
so there must be something to talk about.  As always, feel free to
send in stories about how to paint, what color to paint it, etc.

Q. How do I paint this $1,200 brass model I just purchased?

Well, being handy with an airbrush is the "only" place to start
playing with brass... if you don't already have some experience...
practice airbrushing on some less-expensive (and less detailed) stuff.

My [Dennis Lippert] "system" for painting brass steam locos has always
been basically the following:

(1) Test-run the loco... to make sure it ran before you took it
apart(!).  Check all of the valve gear and rods for loose screws,
tighening if found. It might even be a good idea to fully break-in the
loco before putting it through the "trauma" of disassembly.

(2) Disassmble as follows: remove lead & trailing trucks.  Detach the
boiler from the frame. Install the weight (if it was just wrapped up
and sittiing in the box). Remove the trucks and couplers from the
tender, and remove its body from the frame also.  If the smokebox
front is removeable, you might want to take it off also. This *should*
be all the disassembly that will be necessary.

(3) Inspect the model.  Fix anything broken, and check out the factory
clear-coat lacquer.  If the lacquer seems to be smooth and isn't
chipping off, use it as a primer for your paint.  If the lacquer is no
good, strip the loco (I use ScaleCoat's stripper).

(4) Wash the loco with soap and "water as hot as you can stand".  This
is to make the surface clean so the paint will stick better. Don't
worry about getting the motor/drive wet.  As long as it dries
completely before putting power to it, it will be OK.  Let the model
dry for at least a few hours, preferably overnight. After washing the
parts, always wash your hands before touching the model (or better
yet, wear rubber gloves).

(5) If the loco was stripped, it needs to be primed. I use a PPG
two-part epoxy primer (because a friend got it for me), code-named
DP400/DP401. You mix equal parts of the two bottles, let sit for 30
minutes, then thin with lacquer thinner and spray (it will only last a
couple weeks in the bottle after being mixed, so don't mix much).  It
should be noted that Floquil's "primers" are basically just paint
colors with thicker pigment (for sanding). They DO NOT adhere to the
surface any better than the normal paints (this from a PPG paint
chemist who has "chemically dissected" them).

(6) Prepare your paint.  I like Scalecoat II because of it's good
coverage and shiny surface.  You get the best smoothness if the paint
is slightly on the thin side, rather than slightly thick.  But just
*slightly*. (if Scalecoat is overthinned, it will chemically "fall
apart".

(7) Adjust the airbrush to spray a very small amount of paint.  Our
first area of attack will be the chassis.  Connect power leads to the
frame and the drawbar, and put about half-power to the chassis.  Hold
it by the motor (assuming can motor), and spray all of the stuff
that's moving, from various angles.  sit the chassis aside, upside
down, and leave it running for five to ten minutes (to make sure the
paint doesn't stick anything together when it dries.) Since the
airbrush is turned down right now, we can also spray the lead truck,
trailing truck, tender trucks, etc.  Be sure to hit them from many
angles, and to roll them around while painting them. ( A skill in
itself... hitting a moving target! :-) Possibly the single biggest
trick in airbrushing brass is getting paint on everything that will be
seen (a bare spot under a detail on a black plastic loco looks like a
shadow... on brass it looks like someone forgot to paint it!)

(8) open the airbrush up to a "normal" spray pattern.  Start to spray
any part (boiler, tender, etc.) Begin by spraying from obscure angles
around all details.  Then come back and lay a smooth overcoat over the
entire area.

(9) once done with the main body parts, you can come back to the
chassis.  Spray all non-moving parts with the "heavier" spray pattern.
Try to avoid spraying on the moving parts (since they're already
painted).  Again, the motor is the nicest handle to hold with.

(10) Now you should notice that everything is painted (unless I missed
something).  In the case of a PRR steamer, the boiler and tender body
should be brunswick green, the chassis components should all be black.
Take some time to look at all the parts from any angle that you can...
there WILL be bare spots somewhere (trust me!)

(11) Wait for things to dry.  With Scalecoat I paint, this can take
days to quit being tacky.  Suggestions to speed drying include:
  -put it outside if it's a nice warm sunny day... in the sun.
  -put it in front of a forced-air furnace (warm, dry air is good)
  -bake it (I've never "baked" - don't look to me for suggestions

The best idea is to do one of the above to remove the tackyness, and
still let the parts sit for a week. This guarantees that everything is
dry and hard.

(12) prepare for next color(s).  On most steamers this would include
graphite smokeboxes, Oxide red tender decks/cab roofs, etc.  Check
your prototype!  Mask carefully, but prepare yourself for the fact
that you *will* get overspray under the masking.  Luckily, black is
easy to touch up.  Always "overdo it" with metallic colors, and cover
up the overspray later.  The metallics are incredibly hard to touch up
without it showing, so make sure everything that is to be metallic
gets sprayed the first time.

(13) Apply next color(s).  Using a very low pressure (10-15 psi) to
keep overspray to a minimum. Remove masking as soon as you are done.
"Bake" again.  [You can often do two or more "extra" colors at one
sitting... as long as they aren't too close to each other on the model
(overspray problems).]

(14) Clean paint from parts which must make electrical contact.  These
include tender truck bolsters, wheel treads, drawbar, etc. with
lacquer thinner and Q-Tips. The engine drive wheels are easiest to
clean if you again run the chassis on a power pack.

(13) Reassemble the loco.  After reassembly, do any kind of touch-up
work and details.  (i.e. if you did a graphite smokebox, the railings,
etc. will also be graphite, so repaint them [black]).

(14) Dullcote the loco (or semi-gloss) after decaling. This will seal
the decals and give "an extra layer of protection" against chips.

(15) Weather the loco if you like, wrap it up, take it to the club,
and begin to brag.  This is the most important step, as very few
people seem to realize that it takes more real effort to read this
message than it does to get a good paint job on a brass model!

Above all, follow these simple rules:
- have fun... painting your first couple of brass locos can be stressful.
- take your time... it's not that important to get done today (or even 
  this week!).
- use a spray booth, rubber gloves, and possibly a respirator.  A simple
  mask won't help much... as the pigment is the least of your worries. 
  These may seem like overkill, but we are looking at a couple of hours 
  at the booth... much more time than, say, painting a freight car.

Miscellaneous
-------------

Q. What are Kadee couplers and why should I use them?

Most locomotives and rolling stock come with an industry-standard
coupler - for HO they are X2f (commonly called horn-hook) and for N
they are Rapido.  These couplers are only suitable for those who don't
plan to do much switching and coupling/uncoupling of the cars, their
primary advantages being that they are free and require virtually no
adjustment.

Kadee makes a line of more prototypical looking couplers that are
available in all common scales and which are used by most serious
modelers.  They are magnetically operated, allowing you to uncouple
cars without touching them.  Uncoupling ramps made of permanent
magnets or electromagnets can be positioned at strategic places on
your layout to perform this uncoupling.  Rix (another company) sells
an inexpensive magnetic rod which can be held between the cars to
uncouple them without removing them from the tracks.  Note that Kadee
couplers are not compatible with the standard couplers, so once you
switch you'll have to convert all of your equipment.  In HO the most
common size (#5) costs $2.95 for a package of 4 (2 cars).

Credits
-------
While I take all responsibility for anything you don't like, I haven't
put this together all by myself.  Portions of this file have been
contributed by the following people:

Baird_David@Tandem.com (David G. Baird)
smb@ulysses.att.com (Steven Bellovin)
bill@mathnx.math.byu.edu (Doctor Blues)
bruceb@mpd.tandem.com (Bruce Burden)
dibble@zk3.dec.com (Ben Dibble)
emery@d74sun.mitre.org (David Emery)
zehntel!gregg@decwrl.dec.com (Gregg Fuhriman)
billg@bony1.bony.com (Bill Gripp) 
johnh@genghis.borland.com (John Haskey)
andre@king.slc.mentorg.com (Andre' Hut)
msjohnso@donald.WichitaKS.NCR.COM (Mark Johnson)
johnson@arc.ab.ca (Mark Johnson) [same person?]
vek@allegra.att.com (Van Kelly)
trk@cray.com (Tim Kirby)
S_KOEHLER@iravcl.ira.uka.de (Tobias B. K"ohler)
greg_lewis@csufresno.edu (Greg Lewis)
Jean-Pol.Matheys@cern.ch (Jean-Pol Matheys)
737ochs@gw.wmich.edu (Fred Ochs)
mattp@cscihp.ecst.csuchico.edu (Matt Pedersen)
grr@cbmvax.commodore.com (George Robbins)
Joe.Russ@mixcom.com (Joe Russ)
slambo@ucrmath.ucr.edu [?!?]
js@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (Jon Sawyer)
romeo@niagara.Tymnet.COM (Michael Stimac)