HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: ellisk@ucsu.Colorado.EDU (Michael K. Ellis)
Subject: Suggestions for a 1993 Probe GT
Reply-To: ellisk@fido.Colorado.EDU
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1992 02:54:02 GMT

I just put in an order for a 1993 Ford Probe GT, and while I had no
choice but to go with the 'premium stereo system' (AM/FM cassette, four
speakers, and I don't know what else), I'm looking to eventually replace
it with something else.  For those who were wondering, I could have
deleted the stereo.  They would have also deleted the mounting, speaker
holes, and everything else making putting in an aftermarket stereo
impossible for me to do, and expensive for an installer to do.  (I'll
still probably have whatever I buy installed, since I couldn't be sure I
wouldn't void the warranty, and the reputable places around here will
guarantee their work.)

I plan to start with an AM/FM cassette, a decent amp, and replacement
speakers if the factory-issue ones aren't any good, and then possibly
add a CD changer in the back.  I'm thinking about a SONY Uni-Link unit
for the AM/FM cassette unit, since it has built-in capability to handle
their CD changers later on, but I'm perfectly willing to go with another
system that can offer equal performance and expandibility.  I don't much
care who makes the amp and speakers, other than they should be
reasonably priced and better than what Ford puts in.  If there's a
'guide to the 1993 Ford Probe GT Audio System' along the lines of the
post for the Saturn Audio System, I'd appreciate it very much.  I still
don't know, for instance, whether I'm getting coax, 2-way, or even 3-way
speakers in this so-called 'Premium' stereo from Ford.  Given that
Saturn, a car company known for customer satisfaction, puts in coax
speakers in its top of the line system, I'm not optimistic about what
I'm going to get from Ford.

Prices for units, btw, should run under $500 or so for the
cassette/AM/FM unit (final price, not list), more or less the same for
the changer.  Amp and speakers cost should be 'comperable' meaning
supplying performance in line with the dash unit and changer.

Thanks,

--
Michael K. Ellis
ellisk@fido.colorado.edu
From: babineau@spxtech.qc.ca (Andre Babineau)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: ++1-800-SHERWOOD number out there???++
Date: 4 Sep 92 14:18:41 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Securiplex Technologies Inc., Montreal, Canada
X-Bytes: 1082

From article <1992Aug31.181843.17971@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>, by mgarber@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Max D Garber):
> The place where I bought my Sherwood amps does not sell them anymore-is there a
> 1-800 number that I can call to find a local dealer???
> 
> Thanks alot!
> THE HYPEMAN
Why do you want the phone number of a company which is manufacturing
real cheap stock!!!
They are so bad that your local dealer refuses to sell them any longer.

I'm sorry but I'm absolutely sure that you can find a lot better, sound 
quality speaking, in other brands. The only point where Sherwood has
an "advantage" is  the price. Even that's not completely true if 
you look closely. What I mean is that you can find a 50 Watts/ch amp from
a company like Kenwood or Blaupunkt for the same price of a 100 Watts/ch 
Sherwood amp that will sound surely better and stronger. 

The price is not the only thing!!!!
What you want do primarly is to listen and enjoy music!!!!!

Andre Babineau,                 Securiplex Technologies Inc.
babineau@spxtech.qc.ca          Montreal, Quebec   CANADA
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: dlambert@eng.auburn.edu (Dave Lambert)
Subject: Re: Buying Car Stereo
Organization: Auburn University Engineering
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1992 18:01:55 GMT

In article <1992Aug27.102322@is.morgan.com> scairns@is.morgan.com (Scott Cairns) writes:
>
>We are in the process of purchasing a new car and as I've had three
>new cars over the past 10 years, I've never been satisfied with the
>sound of the factory installed systems.
>
>What I want in a third-party system is the ability to:
>
>(1) Play single CDs (a changer is not necessary).
>(2) Play cassettes.
>
>Are there combo units that do both (and of course include the AM/FM
>radio as well)?  If so, recommendations?  
>
>Finally, what if any advice do netters have for dealing with the 
>problem of factory-installed sound systems?  I don't want it but it
>seems I still have to pay for it.  
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
My first suggestion would be to look into an add-on Sony cassette
player that is compatible with their in-dash CD players.  It
is a 1/2 DIN.  The last price I heard was around $200 for the
cassette player plus around $300 for a CD player it is a bit
pricey, but if that is really what you want.........

>-- 
>+------------------------------------------------------------------+
>| Scott Cairns           	|   email: scairns@fsg.com         |
>| Fusion Systems Group		|      or: scairns@is.morgan.com   |
>| New York, New York, USA   	|                                  |
>+------------------------------------------------------------------+


David Lambert
dlambert@eng.auburn.edu



Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: dsg@cci632.cci.com (David Greenberg - co-op)
Subject: Re: Buying Car Stereo
Organization: [Computer Consoles, Inc., Rochester, NY
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 13:05:54 GMT

In article <5187@dove.nist.gov> keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov (Larry Keys) writes:
>In article <1992Aug27.102322@is.morgan.com> scairns@is.morgan.com (Scott Cairns) writes:
>>
>>We are in the process of purchasing a new car and as I've had three
>>new cars over the past 10 years, I've never been satisfied with the
>>sound of the factory installed systems.
>>
>>What I want in a third-party system is the ability to:
>>
>>(1) Play single CDs (a changer is not necessary).
>>(2) Play cassettes.
>>
>>Are there combo units that do both (and of course include the AM/FM
>>radio as well)?  If so, recommendations?  
>
>
>
>I have not listened to it, but on Tuesday is was in a Car Audio Shop, and
>they had a Pioneer unit which was a double DIN tuner/CD/and Cassette.  The
>face folded down, and you can insert a cassette.  It had a large LCD display
>and many buttons.  Sorry but i don't know the model number, or the price
>but it had a sign above it which read "NEW".`
>                                                   .              


	The Unit is the Pioneer FM-H 75. It has AM/FM/TAPE/Single cd/Changer
controls.
	I just got one for $800 (retail ~ $1400). It is a nice unit, though
I am just now learning all the functions it has (Which are numerous!)...
It also has a built in 5 (may be 7) band graphics EQ and spectrum analyzer.
The only thing it lacks (and I am really pissed about it!) is a Subwoofer 
x-over / volume level.

	All in all it is a nice unit (30X4) so if the shoe fits....


						Dave
From: poulson@cs.widener.edu (Joshua R. Poulson)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Sony CD Changers and skipping
Date: 27 Aug 1992 08:33:44 -0400
Organization: Widener Univ. Dept. of Computing Services
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: lisa.cs.widener.edu

In article <1992Aug25.195708.6598@erg.sri.com> nakayama@erg.sri.com (Dave Nakayama) writes:
>"They used to, but after complaints about the skipping, Kenwood decided to
>part with Sony.  Now they have an excellent and small 10-disc changer which
>to my knowledge hasn't had any skipping problems so far."
>
>Is there any truth to this?  I was all set to get a Sony CD changer for my
>car, but now I'm starting to look at Alpine, Denon, and others.

My Kenwood changer (401 is the model #) skips more than my AX-15 did.
I'm going to Alpine when I get my collective #$%^@! together.
Admittedly, the installation was not intended to be permanant... but it
should still not skip when not going over bumps. :) (The low bass might
have something to do with it...)
-- 
Joshua R. Poulson (NIC handle: JRP8)       [Joshua R. Poulson@cyber.Widener.EDU]
Systems Programmer, Widener University     [poulson@cs.Widener.EDU]
"Try to be sensitive..." -- the Usenet Oracle Helpfile (send a mail
message with the subject "help" to oracle@iuvax.cs.indiana.edu)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: bell@asdsun.larc.nasa.gov (John Bell)
Subject: Re: Kicker Solobaric Experience?
Keywords: Are they for real?
Organization: NASA Langley Research Center, Hampton, VA  USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 20:27:58 GMT

In article <1992Sep3.193941.4245@tronsbox.xei.com>, moskowit@tronsbox.xei.com (Len Moskowitz) writes:
|> Marc Levy writes:
|> 
|> >I would also know if anyone has tried the solobarics, and how
|> >they like them.  Also, could anyone send me the 1-800 number
|> >to stillwater, I would like to get some more information on
|> >reccomended box sizes, etc....
|> 
|> There are three Solobaric drivers: S8, S10, and S12.  Here are their
|> published T/S parameters.
|> 
!>	(T/S parameters)
|> 
|> I use Perfect Box to compute alignments and find it very useful.  It
|> gets you very close to the actual performance but then you have to
|> tune a bit, especially with small fourth order (ported) boxes.  After
|> playing with it a bit, Perfect Box gives the following results (all
|> for sealed boxes):
|> 
!> 	(results)
|> 

Pardon my ignorance, but what is "Perfect Box". It sounds like something I
could really use.

-----
John Bell
NASA Langley Research Center
my opinions are my own (obviously)
Internet: bell@haloe.larc.nasa.gov
804-864-7121
From: granteri@pnet51.orb.mn.org (Grant Erickson)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: carpet glue
Date: 26 Aug 92 01:05:01 GMT
Organization: People-Net [pnet51], Minneapolis, MN.

ehawrysh@bmers217.bnr.ca (Evan Hawrysh) writes:
>I don't think my last posting made it out so I'll post this again.
>
>I just finished building an isobaric enclosure using a cardboard tube.
>I now want to cover it in some automotive carpetting and I was wondering
>what kind of adhesive would be best suited for this application? I also
>have a plywood endpiece, so the glue would have to adhere to that as 
>well. Any suggestions? Please respond to the net, as I don't have email
>access.
>
>Evan


What I used for building my amp/crossover rack in my trunk was a product
called 3M 77 Spray Adhesive. It is about $4.50 to $10.00 (at a hardware store)
(the $4.50 was from a picture framing shop). It sets up fast, is easy to work
with, and once bonded, is very strong. It doesn't take too much surface area
to get a good bond, so it should work fine with your end pieces.
 
Grant Erickson
 
UUCP:  {crash tcnet petrus quest}!orbit!pnet51!granteri
-or-      
UUCP:  granteri@pnet51.orb.mn.org
From: erich.lim@cutting.hou.tx.us (Erich Lim) 
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: RE: CENTER CHANNELS
Date: 29 Aug 92 22:36:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: The Cutting Edge - Houston, TX - 713-466-1525
Reply-To: erich.lim@cutting.hou.tx.us (Erich Lim) 

  Well, since you have a 91' Accord, I wouldn't think it's too hard to
put in a center channel.  You could put in 1" tweeters behind the
rear-view mirror, but I don't think that's the best way.  I personally
think the best way is to put it in the dash.  In the middle of the dash
(on top of the A/C/ vent, in front of the clock), there's that little
section that is receeded.  You could cut it out, put in a 3 1/2"
midrange, run it with a 50w amp, cover the cut out with a grill that is
opaque so the sound will travel through and dye the carpet to factory
color.  Just sum the L and R channels to get the center channel (I
think?).  Or you can get one of those Center channel units that does
everything for you.


Erich Lim
  Internet add:  erich.lim@cutting.hou.tx.us
                                                                                                                              
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: lmcansi@noah.ericsson.se (Andrew Silver)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Help!
Date: 26 Aug 92 16:20:34 GMT
Organization: Ericsson Communications Inc. Montreal, Canada

**********************************
* Uneven left/right sound levels *
**********************************

Hello, this is my first post on this net.  I have a Sony D-2 walkman connected to my Blaupunkt 4x30W amp using the Blaupunkt 7pin Din connector.  The other end of the Din connector has 4 RCA jacks.  Also, the Din connector hooks to a preamp that then goes to the main amp.  This preamp also has my factory radio hooked to it through the other inputs: the high power ones.

It seems that two of the RCA jacks are for the left channel and two for the right.  In other words, plugging a source into one of the (say) left jacks ends out playing through both the front AND rear left channels.

So... I simply chose 1 left and 1 right jack to hook up the CD player.  But the problem is that one channel plays louder than the other - significantly.  When I reverse the wires (plug left CD out to right amp in), the louder side changes to the other side of the car.

HELP!  What's the problem?  Is it the CD player, or the amps, or maybe the preamp that the Din connector hooks to?

My present solution is to put an attenuating potentiometer in the louder input line to even out the channels.  What resistance should I try?  And is this is bad idea, or bad solution.

Any help is much appreciated!

Quicksilver!  (Andrew).
From: Alan_Boisclair@mindlink.bc.ca (Alan Boisclair)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Kicker Solobaric Experience?
Date: 4 Sep 92 01:26:49 GMT
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada
Distribution: world

Regarding Isobarics
Even if factory specs were reasonably accurate at the beginning of a production
run, the actual speaker could vary 10% - 15% easily from spec.
I have used a shareware program called PERFBOX which does a wonderful job of
inputing all the variables of the T/S parameters and the Isobaric box size to
give both power readings, thermal curve, frequency response etc.
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: biancol@ecf.toronto.edu (BIANCOLIN FABIO S)
Subject: A few Thoughts and questions
Summary: Need A Sub, Perfbox reliability? ...
Organization: University of Toronto, Engineering Computing Facility
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 04:35:20 GMT

   Hello all,
  
   Now, correct me (politely) if I'm wrong, but I do recall reading several 
posts within 2 months ago stating quite simply that alot of the calculations
done by Perfect Box, are incorrect (specifically the Port Calculations)

   Would the person who posted this message (if you are still around) please
 clarify this situation.

 SideNote: I used perfect box to calculate the ports on a buddy's box. 
           When i used the equations in the Loudspeaker Design Cookbook 
             The ports turned out to be several inches shorter than
               Perfbox had told me originally.
 
  Ok, Now, on to a more important topic.
  
     I am looking to build a Competition system in about 8 Months (GRADUATION!)
A
  I have read TONS of material about all kinds of Amps, X-overs, Subs, etc,
    and am quite familiar with most of the products on the market (i believe)
 
   And ARG!!!!  there is just SOOOOOOO much to choose from.
  
  The Subs i have been Considering are:
  
  JL Audio 10W5 and 12W5  (I really like these)
  Cerwin Vega 10's and 12's (Can't recall if they are the XL's or not, but the
                             (better ones)
  Orion XTR 10DVC, XTR 12DVC  (I really like these)
  JBL 1200 GTI, 1500GTI
  Predators by Petras 10's and 12's
  C10's and C12's from Stillwater Designs (Kicker)
  Redline 10's and 12's by G&S Designs
  
  I am open to all opinions and facts, but remember that I am trying to 
plan a Competition system when you post or mail me please.

  As for Amplifiers, I have pretty much narrowed the field down to 
either Precision Power  (PPI)  or Orion.  
A
  Opinions?  Comments?  Suggestions?
 
  Front End will probably be Quart.  But if there are other Suggestions
  I am always willing to hear about them.

  This will most likely be going into a 1988, 89, or 1990 Toyota Supra so
  Space is definately something to be considered. 
A
   As for x-overs and EQ, almost certainly Audio Control EQT's, and 
   A 4Xs, as well as an ESP-3.  

  I have found that even the most reputable dealers in my area (Toronto)
  Seem to want to sell and recommend their brand (which does make sense) but
  I would like some unbiased opinions.  
  

    Thanks in advance.
  
    Fabio

   biancol@ecf.toronto.edu
From: stormoen@plains.NoDak.edu (Michael D. Stormoen)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Head Unit Installation Help
Date: 2 Sep 92 10:41:17 GMT
Organization: North Dakota Higher Education Computing Network

I have a clarion CD head unit, and Alpine 11 band Eq w/sub out.

The head unit has L/R front and L/R rear output, but the Eq has only L/R in.

The Eq has L/R sub out, L/R front out, and L/R rear out.

The head unit and Eq both have fader controls

The L/R front and L/R rear of the Eq go to a 4-channel amp.

My Questions:

1. Should I use the front or rear RCA out for the Eq input?
2. How should the fade control on the head unit be set?
3. The Eq will work fine for fade control, won't it?
From: klui@corp.hp.com (Kenneth K.F. Lui)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: CD changer opions
Date: 31 Aug 92 15:55:06 GMT
Article-I.D.: scd.Btuuvv.Dsn
Distribution: usa
Organization: Hewlett-Packard

In article <1992Aug31.125316.7173@ee.eng.ohio-state.edu> tumbush@tigris.eng.ohio-state.edu (Gregory J. Tumbush) writes:
>1) Sony - Unilink setup is a must because all Sony's will be in this 
>   configuration in a year.  Various reports of skipping on rec.audio.car.
>
My Sony U300 hasn't skipped since it was installed this May in my
MR2.

>3) Denon - No negative publicity yet.  Excellent reputation for home
>   CD players.
>
As far as I'm aware, Denon's CD changer mechanism used to come
from Sony.  But I'm not sure of Denon's current generation of
changers, if they do have one.  Sony's A-series of changers
aren't as good as the U-series and my friend's Denon uses Sony's
older-generation (the A-series).

You may want to consider brands that make their own changer
mechanism, like:
     Sony
     Alpine
     Pioneer
     Blaupunkt

There are others, I'm sure, but I'm not too sure of others.  I
figure: why get an imitation when I can get the original?  I'm
not too familiar with the capabilities of Pioneer nor Blaupunkt,
but I can add some insight with Sony (my U300) and Alpine (a
friend of mine has one installed in his CRX).  Feature-for-
feature, the Sony wins hands down.  Sound quality, _I_ think
they're about the same and it's a subjective area anyway.  The
Alpine seems to change discs a little faster than my U300 (10
seconds versus 12-15 seconds)--but for some reason, when both
units change from the last disc to the first, it's very fast (on
the order of 5 seconds or so).  Sonys are all 10-disc changers
while Alpines are 6.  My friend's Alpine skipped only once but
that was when he was driving pretty fast over a construction zone
on the freeway, so it doesn't really count.  I think most
changers are pretty reliable and if there are any problems, the
standard 1-year warranty would cure any unexpected incidents.  My
friend's Alpine does have a glitch with its programming, however.
The unit thought a currently playing disc was number 3 when it
was actually number 4 and wouldn't unload it because there was
another disc already in slot number 3.  He fixed it by powering
the unit off, taking the disc in slot 3 out, re-inserting the
magazine, and ejecting the currently playing disc.  He noticed
that this problem came up because he didn't power his head-unit
(also an Alpine) down before he ejected his magazine previously.
Now he powers everything down before ejecting and hasn't had the
problem.


Good luck,
Ken
From: dalst6+@pitt.edu (Diaz A Luis)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: PerfectBox???!!!
Date: 4 Sep 92 02:30:03 GMT
Organization: University of Pittsburgh

I have heard some people on this group talking about something called
perfect box or PERFBOX and I was wondering what it was, if its really worth
getting and, if it is, where can i get a copy. Thanks

				are
Organization: Junior, Electrical and Computer Engineering, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1992 20:10:44 -0400 
From: Amit Likhyani <al1x+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Orion 225HCCA or PPI 2075AM

I want a dedicated sub woofer amp(rather than bridging the 2 rear
channels on my PPI 4100AM).  I have narrowed it down to a PPI
2075 or an Orion 225 HCCA.  Unfortunately, I have 2 8 ohm woofers.

			Orion			PPI
2 8 ohm woofers	50 per woofer		150 per woofer*
2 4 ohm woofers	100 per woofer	75 per woofer*
4 4 ohm woofers	100 per woofer	75 per woofer

My 4100AM is running all 4 channels at 2 ohms.  Like I said, the
rear 2 channels are bridged mono into 2 8 ohm woofers for a 4 ohm load
and bridged, that is 2 ohms.  It will overheat after an hour unless I fan
cool it.  I would guess that means that the PPI really is not a high current
amp so I have to wonder if running a PPI 2075 bridged like that is the way
it is intended to be used.  The guy who sold it to me highly recommended
running it in stereo even into 8 ohms.  He said I would get better results
than bridged mono.

A big advantage for the Orion is the fact that it only costs you 50
watts when you compete versus 150 on the PPI.  Kind of like a salary cap
I guess.
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: doughnut@leland.Stanford.EDU (andrew tao)
Subject: Door Mounting -> Enclosure?
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 92 22:21:11 GMT

I just started reading this newsgroup a little while ago so sorry if this is a
FAQ, but here goes.  What type of enclosure does the typical car door frame
provide?  I've got a Honda Civic HB 91' and I was looking at the mounting
ring provided in the front door and can't really tell if all the area
behind the speaker acts like a sealed enclosure or not.  My concern is that
if I choose to replace the ring with a custom mount to allow for a larger
speaker, that I will have to insure that the new mount provides an airtight
seal.  Actually, after reading the recently posted Honda installation article
I might not even alter the stock mounting ring, but I'd nonetheless like to
know how the door enclosure works.  Thanks very much.

Andrew Tao
From: cjm9321@hertz.njit.edu (The InfoMan)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Mustang speakers...
Date: 28 Aug 92 03:38:09 GMT
Organization: New Jersey Institute of Technology, Newark, N.J.

REPLY DIDN'T WORK!



	Hello,

	If you just want your system to sound good inside, then all you
have to do is replace the speakers. If you want more, then get a good
head unit. If you want to add a CD changer I would stick with Sony
UniLink or Kenwood.

	As far as the speakers, replace with the same size. I'm not too
sure what are good speakers for your car, but after replaceing the dash
speakers in my GM there was a huge difference.

	Chech the specs of the speakers when you go shopping or pick up
the July/August issue of Car Stereo Review.

				Hope this helps,

-- 
       		          ___     _      Buy USA products, It's YOUR job.
MADE		  |   |  \   \   / \
       IN	  |   |    \    /---\	 	Christopher J. Massa
	    THE   |___|  ___/  /     \   	cjm9321@hertz.njit.edu

-- 
       		          ___     _      Buy USA products, It's YOUR job.
MADE		  |   |  \   \   / \
       IN	  |   |    \    /---\	 	Christopher J. Massa
	    THE   |___|  ___/  /     \   	cjm9321@hertz.njit.edu
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car