HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Problem with 87 Mitsu Precis ..
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 01:16:29 -0500

 >
 >
 > Hi !
 >
 > Was hoping some enlightened soul would care to share his
 > wisdom with a lesser privileged ..
 >
 > The car : 87 Mitsu Precis, 5 sp, 46 K miles..
 >
 > The problem : Was driving when suddenly the car stalled.
 > The car wouldnt even crank when I turned the key (no clicking
 > either).. The parking lights and the emergency lights work
 > but
 > the stereo doesnt work. Neither does the rear defogger..
 > Since the it stalled while running, I doubt if it is the
 > starting
 > motor. Also the battery is new, and the parking lights
 > work, so
 > that's out too.. Have absolutely no idea where to start..
 > any and
 > all help would be deeply appreciated..
 >
 > Thanks to all who respond (in anticipation) ..
 >
New battery huh?? well...why not try making sure the cables are tight, 
and clean, and that the terminals are well attached to the cables...also 
check out the ground wires...



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: Fog Lights and Driving Lights
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 92 06:18:38 GMT

Kevin Sullivan (kevins@eng.auburn.edu) wrote:

(Re: Fog Lights and Driving Lights)
: 
: Who needs these?  Do they really make a big difference?  I would assume so 
: but for what applications, exactly, i.e. I want to decide if I should get 
: either of them.  Are the more expensive ones very much better than the ones 
: down at the auto parts store?

They do make a definite difference.  Due to the crappy (in the US) lighting 
laws, we're not allowed to have decent headlights.  The DOT lighting pattern
is basically a fuzzy blur.  In civilized areas (read: not US), they use a much
better pattern of lens, with a horizontal plane at road level, and a splash
of light off to the side of the road.

What you can do with driving lights is try to compensate for the deficiencies
in your stock headlights.  Several light patterns are sold, including 'pencil'
beams, which are very tight spotlight-type beams to be aimed straight down
the road, also general 'driving' beams which usually have the above mentioned 
horizontal plane effect, and fog beams which are very diffused.  

PLEASE keep in mind that you should NOT, EVER, drive with these things on while
in traffic, and keep the driving lights wired to a circuit switched on with your
high-beams (switched individually from there if you like).  Around here, there
are so many idiot drivers who want to impress people with their driving lights
that they keep them on all the time.  Not a lot of fun staring into these, as
many/most are brighter than high-beams.

Also, if you're going to get driving lights, halogens are definately the way to
go.  Standard incandescants draw more power for the amount of light they put
out.     

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.
hinz@picard.med.ge.com
From: borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Spark plug wire help
Date: 19 Aug 92 18:06:55 GMT
Article-I.D.: hpspkla.31160130
Organization: Hewlett Packard Company, Spokane, Wa.

In rec.autos.tech, Tom Santos <tom_santos@taligent.com> writes:

>Ooops.  My car doesn't have spark plug wires... no alternator.  My
>mixture is still rich though.

All right guy, lets get real.  I've heard of some car which have have no
spark plug wires.  Each spark plug has its own coil, directly over the
plug.  Thus no wire.

And there are older cars which use generators, instead of alternators.
But I know of none of these cars which have the one-coil-per-plug
arrangement described above.

And of course you could have a Model-T, without a generator or alternator,
but it does have spark plug wires, and a battery to run the ignition.

Or maybe you have a diesel.  It has no spark plug wires (no spark plugs
either).  And you if you can keep the fuel valve open, you don't even need
any electricity to run the engine.  But it is highly unlikely that the
mixture would run rich except under full load with the injector pump
out of adjustment.


Donald Borowski    WA6OMI    Hewlett-Packard, Spokane Division
"Angels are able to fly because they take themselves so lightly."
                                       -G.K. Chesterton
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: arup+@cs.cmu.edu (Arup Mukherjee)
Subject: Re: Dura Lube
Organization: School of Computer Science, Carnegie Mellon
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 16:48:45 GMT

In article <64207@cup.portal.com> John_A_Pham@cup.portal.com writes:
>Does anyone know anything about Dura Lube?  The ad shows that
>Dura Lube outperform Slick 50, Mobil 1, Penzoil, and others
>
>John

Didn't they actually want to say that it outperforms "Pennzoil" ? [Yes,
in the infomercial they spelled it "Penzoil"]. I turned the television 
off at the point when they claimed it will give you "piece of mind".

Would you really want to risk your engine by using a product from a 
company that can't even make an error-free commercial?

-Arup



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: curtis@.uucp (Jeffrey S. Curtis)
Subject: Ford power locks
Organization: Computing and Telecommunications, Argonne National Laboratory
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 19:17:22 GMT

I was installing door speakers in my '84 Mercury Marquis and noticed
that Ford did me one favor and one disfavor.  They pre-cut the sheet
metal to the proper size for mounting speakers, saving me the cost of
a metal cutter (thank you, Ford).  Then they blew it all by routing
the power lock wires (five thick ones, wrapped in tape) *through* the
speaker hole.

Being in a hurry (and thanks to a bold burst of stupidity), I decided
to cut through the tape and route the wires elsewhere.  I chopped through
the tape in one fell swoop, and, as if I need to say it, sparks flew
everywhere quite gloriously.  There were five wires - one black one (?),
and four color-coded pink ones for each of the four power lock functions
(send lock, send unlock, receive lock, receive unlock).  I don't remember
which wire is which from the chart I looked at a year ago..

Anyway, after hooking everything back up, I tried the locks (I was doing
this work on the passenger side front door).  From the passenger side,
it could lock and unlock the doors fine.  However, from the driver's
side, locks and unlocks won't reach the passenger door - in other words,
everything works, except that the right front door can't receive locks
and unlocks.

Now my question is this - does anyone have any idea *why* this would be?
In my mind, either all four functions would work, or none would work.
But why would two work, and two not work? Is there a control module
somewhere doing this? At each door, perhaps? I know there's a relay on
the starter relay, but that can't be the problem.  Any tips or pointers
are appreciated.. thanks..

Jeff
--
       Jeffrey S. Curtis         | Internet: curtis@anl.gov
Computing and Telecommunications | BITnet:   curtis at anlvm
  Argonne National Laboratory    | X.400:    /PN=Jeffrey.Curtis/O=olivia
        +1 708/252-5031          |           /PRMD=anl/ADMD= /C=US/
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: butler@quest.comm.mot.com (Jim Butler)
Subject: Re: waxes and steering wheels.
Reply-To: butler@quest.comm.mot.com (Jim Butler)
Organization: Land Mobile Products Sector, Motorola, Inc.
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 22:59:32 GMT

In article <1992Aug11.210459.117600@evolving.com>, rhw@evolving.com (Robert H. Wiebener) writes:

> What waxes/polishes/cleaners (de-oxidants) would you all


	I use a 3M product called Imperial Hand Glaze.  Thus stuff puts 
(what I think is a) tremendous shine on a car.  My body-and-paint-shop-
on-retainer (I must have put the owner's kids through college with what
I've spent there) uses it and recommended it to me.  I've also seen fine
furniture repairpeople use this to put the shine back on mahogany.

	3M also makes a product called Imperial Machine Glaze, which I gather
is to be used with a polisher.  I've not used it; I know not how it's
differnet from the hand glaze.


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jim Butler                                | Internet: butler@Quest.comm.mot.com
Motorola, Inc.                            | FAX:   708-576-3240
Land Mobile Products Sector Research      | Phone: 708-576-5962
Schaumburg, Illinois USA                  |"Believe me, I can't be trusted."
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Brian.E.Hannon@dartmouth.edu (Brian E. Hannon)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Brake pedal -'92 Lincoln -Strange Noise When Starting Off
Date: 16 Aug 92 09:34:35 GMT
 <1992Aug15.211352.1667@access.digex.com>
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH

In article <1992Aug15.211352.1667@access.digex.com>
peter@access.digex.com (peter baltimore) writes:

> The strange noise begins when you start off and put the car into drive
> after the car has been parked.  It sounds like a cable being released 
> under the car, which transmits a noise or vibration through the brake
> pedal.  The dealer says that it is the computer checking the ABS brake
> system.  This does not sound right to me, because the noise is inter-
> mittant and does not always do it. Sometimes it does it while I am back-
> ing up once again after being parked and the car has been restarted.
> Any advice on this problem would be appreciated.  Send personal E-mail
> answers to peter@digex.access

Recent high-end ford autos (read lincolns and ltd's) have "automatic
release" parking brakes that release when you move the shift lever into
gear.  This could be what you're hearing/feeling.

Then again it may be the abs as your dealer says...

Bri
From: michaeln@hpcvnb.CV.HP.COM (Mike_Nason)
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 92 02:30:50 PDT
Subject: WANTED 1980-84 VANAGON - OREGON
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Corvallis, Oregon
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

   Wanted, 1980-1984 Vanagon
This post is for a friend. He's looking for a air cooled Vanagon in the 
Western Washington/Oregon/Northern California area. 

   Please reply to:
   stan_lake@hp6400.desk.hp.com
  Thanks.
From: berger@atropa (Mike Berger)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Aerostar info (tuneups, etc)
Date: 12 Aug 92 20:38:23 GMT
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana

hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987) writes:
>root@joncpc.Your.Domain.Here (0000-Admin(0000)) writes:
>: 
>: Getting to the rear plugs is the most difficult, but can be done
>: by removing the belts, radiator and heater hoses. I think the 
>: alternator had to come out also. I was replacing hoses and belts
>: at the time anyway(about 80K miles at the time), so had  to remove 
>: all that. Whole thing took 6 hrs or so. 
>: 
>What the hell was Ford thinking here?  Don't they realize that people
>are going to have to FIX these things & maintain them?  What possible
>justification can there be for making the plugs & other important bits
>so inaccessable?

>My sister had a Bronco II with the Cologne V6, there was one spark plug
>that I never was able to change for her, as it would have involved
>disassembling the car, or perhaps going in through the wheelwell, I don't
>recall.  Why can't they take the extra time & effort to make at least the
>important bits accessable?
*----
Why blame Ford for this?  Every GM car I ever owned had the same
problem.
--
	Mike Berger
	Department of Statistics, University of Illinois
	AT&TNET     217-244-6067
	Internet    berger@atropa.stat.uiuc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: DEVILBISS@OCTAVE.LARC.NASA.GOV (Zaphod Beeblebrox)
Subject: Locks for doors without locks.
Reply-To: DEVILBISS@OCTAVE.LARC.NASA.GOV (Zaphod Beeblebrox)
Organization: NASA Langley Research Center, Hampton, VA USA
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 13:06:40 GMT

1988 Jeep Wrangler Soft Top . . . No factory installed locks.

Last night some &$*(^*&%&^ got into my Jeep and rifled through my center 
console and glove box.  Before 1990 (I think!) there were no locks installed 
in Wranglers with Soft Tops.  I was thinking about installing some locks 
myself ($15.00 each for lock cylinders) and I was wondering if anyone had 
any knowledge on how difficult it might be.  I'll have to punch some holes 
in the doors and come up with some different push rods for inside the doors 
but it shouldn't be that hard.  I could use some info before I start cutting 
holes.

BTW . . . I know that once I put locks on the doors, the next &$*(^*&%&^ 
might just cut the roof.  Also, an alarm might solve my problems but I'm 
still interested in stopping the small time &$*(^*&%&^ who just break into 
anything unlocked.

Thanks . . . Dave

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
        If we were not crazy, we would go insane.
        If we could not laugh, we would go insane!     J. Buffett
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: R1004@vmcms.csuohio.edu
Subject: Re: GM pro's out there?
Organization: CSU
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 16:33:41 GMT

     Rather than changing the driven gear for the spedo, you should
probably buy wheels that are large enough to maintain the proper
overall diameter when using the low profile tires.  Depending
on how much the current wheel-tire combination has lowered
your car you could be looking at slamming into the ground
a lot.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Martel               |
bob2@cua3.csuohio.edu    |  Lady luck must have been a wonderful girl
R1004@vmcms.csuohio.edu  |    -She's never been a friend of mine!
                         |                        Alan Parsons Project
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jory@athena.mit.edu (Jory Bell)
Subject: international scout advice wanted
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 22:37:07 GMT

I am looking at an 1975 International Scout. It is presently in
California and it is rust free (they are asking around $2000). 

Anyway, I wanted to know if anyone had any wisdom on what to look for
when buying such a beast. What breaks, what to look for (any axle of
engine options?). etc...

Also, can anyone tell me of a source for Scout parts. Is there some
godly mail-order source, or am I forever relegated to rummaging
through boneyards?

			Thanks in advance,
			jory bell
			jory@athena.mit.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: c.oneill@trl.oz.au (Chris O'Neill)
Subject: Re: RMI-25 cooling system treatment
Organization: Telecom Australia Research Laboratories, Melbourne, Australia
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 01:43:03 GMT

In article <12130049@hpmwga.sr.hp.com>, jefftb@hpmwtd.sr.hp.com (Jeff Brown)
writes:
>  This product claims that it should be used w/ ethelyne glycol anti freeze
>  but when antifreeze gets old it loses its corrosion fighting stuff. they
claim
>  this puts it back.

I have never seen anyone categorically state that antifreeze definitely loses
its anti-corrosion ability with age.  I make the point that if it does lose its
anti-corrosion ability then this is due to planned obsolescence, i.e. the
antifreeze manufacturers could use an anti-corrosive that lasts forever (such
as sodium chromate) if they want to.

Chris O'Neill
From: sestina@thing.East.Sun.COM (Mike Sestina - Sun BOS Hardware)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: floor jack recommendations
Date: 18 Aug 92 21:54:51 GMT
Reply-To: sestina@thing.East.Sun.COM
Distribution: world
Organization: Sun Microsystems
NNTP-Posting-Host: thing.east.sun.com


	hi:

	I`m looking for recommendations on brands to consider for
	purchase of decent hydraulic floor jack and set of jack 
	stands for my garage

	thanx
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Subaru billows white smoke...
Date: 19 Aug 92 06:42:30 GMT
Article-I.D.: mr.1992Aug19.064230.20002
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5

Possibilities, in order of "let's hope".

1> head gasket
2> cracked head

That's about all I can think of....sounds like you aren't gonna be selling it
for as much as you thought, sorry.  If it's a gasket, though, you can probably
do it yourself and still get some $$ for it, but in its present condition I
would bet it won't sell.

Good luck. 

P.S.  I'm sure there are other possibilities, anybody?


--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.
hinz@picard.med.ge.com
From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: '57 TR3 no engine go jap?
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 09:14:07 -0500

 DT> The decision you are faced with is whether to suffer all those things 
 DT> and 
 DT> strive to return this car to it's original condition,  with all the 
 DT> faults therein and have a collectible and valuable veteran car which 
 DT> will
 DT> increase in value and look really good on those classic car rallies.  
 DT> Or
 DT> Do you replace the engine with a new Jap engine,  hey lets change the 
 DT> shocks
 DT> maybe lower the front a bit and put some really BIG wheels on the back. 

OR you can opt for a middle-of-the-road (so to speak) approach: Update the
ignition with a modern breakerless system, replace original relays with solid
state devices, and possibly replace the generator with an alternator (assuming
the TR3 has a negative ground electrical system). If you find the SU carbs
troubleprone or lacking in power, you can substitute the Weber 40DCOEs. Save the
old parts and make the mods in a such a way that they can readily be restored to
original if someone desires to do so.

Go to some of the vintage sports car races and take a look at the TRs to see
what mods have been made to improve reliability. Join the TSOA and obtain and
study the back issues of their journal.



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: eur@dutncp2.tn.tudelft.nl (Eur van Andel)
Subject: Re: Electrical Question: Multiple Batteries?
Organisation: TU Delft, The Netherlands
Organization: Delft University of Technology
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 08:05:38 GMT

In <CMM.0.90.0.713813115.siegman@Sierra.Stanford.EDU> siegman@SIERRA.STANFORD.EDU ("Anthony E. Siegman") writes:

>Anyone out there with experience on using, and recharging, multiple
>batteries in a vehicle?

>My son is a small contractor, one of whose vehicles is a big old parts
>van.  The van gets driven to a job site, then sits immobile for 3
>weeks, holding job supplies and a communications radio for the job
>crew which is left on 8 hours/day.  This is too much for the regular
>battery; after 3 weeks it's dead.

>Proposal: Install a heavy-duty (marine?) battery for the radio, plus
>an AB switch.  Drive to the site on the regular battery, then switch
>to the heavy-duty backup.  When it's time to drive home, switch back
>to the regular battery, start the truck, and drive home.  Recharge the
>heavy-duty battery either with a 110 V trickle charger at home, or by
>switching back to it after the engine is started.

>Any pitfalls in this? Will the truck's regular alternator and voltage
>regular (12 V) be able to charge the heavy-duty battery also without
>damage?  Are there other ways to do this?

>(We already know that just paralleling two batteries is a bad idea.)
Not SO bad.

I used to have an old Honda civic automatic (that is a rarity in Europe:
virtually everyone has a gearbox here) and had a bad habit of leaving the lights
on. Whith a gear-box that's no problem: you switch off the lights, 
wait a minute, and push-start.

Alas, with an auto this doesn't work. 

So I put an extra battery in the trunk, and connected it to my regular one
with a large diode: the spare could be charged, not discharged. When I left
the lights on again, I got out my jumper cables, started the car with the 
other battery and drove off.

So:
		     |\ |
	+ -----------| >|----------------- + ---------------------
		     |/ |					 |
     Car battery		  Heavy Duty battery           radio
								 |
	- -------------------------------- - ---------------------

This way, the heavy duty one is not used for the car, but does get charged,
and the car battery is left to start the vehicle.

The diode should be a large one: 15 Amps at least. Drill a hole in an aluminum
plate, put the diode in so it can cool, and wrap the plate in tape, so it
can't touch the metal of your car (sparks, roasted wire, blown out diode).

eur
From: todd_oconnor@taligent.com (Todd O'Connor)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Tires - Where to purchase?
Date: 21 Aug 92 21:55:55 GMT
Distribution: ba
Organization: Taligent, Inc.
X-Date: Fri, 21 Aug 92 14:56:39 GMT
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d3


I have a Jeep and when I was shopping for tires this is where I went:

          - Super Shops
             Big selection of BFG All Terrains and Mud Terrains (on Stevens Creek
in San Jose)

          - Wheel Works
             Good selection, some brands I haven't heard of, and good prices

          - Accessories + (408) 985-6969
             Cater to 4WD's.  Don't have a big selection on hand but can get what
you want quickly.

Good luck,
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: DOT 3 vs 4 Brake Fluid
From: vpopesc@opus.uucp (Valentin Popescu)
Date: 18 Aug 92 20:44:22 PDT
Distribution: usa
Organization: California State University, Lost Angels

In article <nataraja.714183959@marble> nataraja@rtsg.mot.com (Vel Natarajan) writes:
>I just had my brake fluid replaced.  The garage put in
>DOT-4 brake fluid, but when I got home, the lid on my
>fluid reservoir said "Dot-3" only.
>
>What's the difference between 3 and 4?  I was told that
>4 mainly had higher max operating temps.  Anything
>else?  Is it OK for my car?  I've got an '89 Probe GT
>by the way.  Thanks for any info.

I believe DOT4 are more vulnerable to moisture, but give you better
braking...


-- 
_____________     __      ____________ 
\_____      /    /_ \     \     _____/ Valentin Popescu
 \_____     \_____/  \____/     ____/  <vpopesc@opus.calstatela.edu>
  \______________      ____________/   P.O. Box 421181
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jmbanocz@grad03.math.ncsu.edu (James M. Banoczi)
Subject: Brakes Question
Organization: NCSU Mathematics Dept.
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 17:37:28 GMT

1986 LeBaron GTS

A friend is replacing the front disk brake pads on his car.  He has helped with the
same job several times in the past and decided to do his car himself.  But
he can't remember how to move the piston in the caliper back enough to allow
for the new thicker pads.  Need help on how to do the above.

Jim
jmbanocz@math.ncsu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: '57 TR3 no engine go jap?
From: derek@nezsdc.icl.co.nz (Derek Tearne)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 92 01:41:07 GMT
Organization: Fujitsu New Zealand

In article <1992Aug16.175944.5349@usenet.ins.cwru.edu> wb8foz@skybridge.scl.cwru.edu (David Lesher) writes:
>Others said
># > Just what don't you guys like about Lucas kit ?  Is there something
># > in particular that has offended you, or is it just because they
># > aren't made in the US of A ?
>
>Reputation.....
>
>q) Why do the British drink their beer warm?
>
>a) They own Lucas refrigerators.

Wherever did you get the idea that the British drink their beer warm?

Perhaps you're testing this with an Oldsmobile temperature gauge...

ObUL:  Beer in Britain is traditionally served at below room temperature.
       If you have ever been in a British room I think you will agree that 
       this does not fit the definition of warm.


-- 

Derek Tearne. -- derek@nezsdc.icl.co.nz --  Fujitsu/ICL New Zealand -- 

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech