HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond)
Subject: Re: Freon detector - info wanted
Date: Fri, 06 Nov 92 07:48:41 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
Distribution: usa

zzang@stat.ufl.edu (zzang) writes:

>Hello,
>I saw a compact Freon detector using
>by a AC technician, it is quite neat
>and powered by battery.
>I wonder if it is available on the
>market for the common users.
>any info will be very much appreciated.


Sure.  Most any refrigeration supply company will  have one for you.
If not, try Grangers.  About $100 for a line powered unit, about $200
for the nice little battery powered units.

Little known secret:  Ionization-type smoke detectors are VERY sensitive
freon detectors.  A leak detector can easily be built using an aquarium
pump, some hose and an ionization detector.  simply pump a portion of
the sample into the ion chamber.  Too much flow will also cause an alarm
so some tuning is necessary.  I compared my homemade unit to my GE 
leak detector rated at 1 lb/year or better and found them comparable.

John
-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC               |Interested in high performance mobility?  
Performance Engineering Magazine (TM) |
Marietta, Ga                         |Interested in high tech and computers? 
jgd@dixie.com                        |Write me about PE Magazine
Need Usenet public Access in Atlanta?  Write Me for info on Dixie.com.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: What is current wisdom on rotating tires (tyres)?
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 92 06:54:34 GMT

Slartibartfast (cka52397@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu) wrote:
: 
: The best way to rotate tires  is always diagonally, so all tires wear evenly,
: which is the purpose of rotating tires anyway.  If they stayed on the same side
: the tires might not wear evenly on each side.  This I know is true for FWD, but
: we own a RWD car that undergoes the same rotation.

Slarty,

I wouldn't ever say NEVER...many tires (high-performance ones anyways) these days
are directional, so the HAVE to stay on the same side of the car (unless you want
to switch to driving backwards for 7000 miles at a time...)  

Also, can someone explain about studded tires?  I'll probably be moving out to
Colorado, where they are legal, and using the studs on all 4 corners.  Is this
valid, or should they just be on the front? (fwd)

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
Don't blame me; I voted for Perot!                hinzd@picard.med.ge.com 
SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.             Pherrets are Phun!!!
From: mikec@hpgrla.gr.hp.com (Mike Christensen)
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 15:37:06 GMT
Subject: Re: Oil out Exhaust?
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Greeley, CO
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

Thanks to all those who have responded to my question.  Water vapor mixed with
soot as suggested by many people is the most plausible cause in my case.  
Notes work again.
From: rodder@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Jon D. Rodder)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: K&N filter fluids
Date: 10 Nov 92 06:44:05 GMT
Article-I.D.: ra.1992Nov10.064405.3930
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin, Austin TX

In article <BxGtuy.IFA@atherton.com> carlos@atherton.com (Carlos Chang) writes:
>I'm using K&N filters.  Are there any substitutes to the solvents
>they sell or do I have to buy their stuff?
>
>	carlos@atherton.com

I've tried lotsa things for cleaning K&N besides their cleaning
solution, but haven't found anything that works better than their
solvent.  I *ALWAYS* re-oil with real K&N oil.  When I had K&N's
that was...  went back to paper aircleaners on everything I own
cause I'd rather just spend $3 on a new paper filter rather than
hour cleaning the K&N everytime I play off-road.


-- 
--=< Jon D. Rodder ----- rodder@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu >=-- 
    \    IRC-Op at tramp.cc.utexas.edu (Rodder)   /
     \    89 Jeep Wrangler - 258/PIECE OF JUNK!  / 
      \        79 Rx-7 - 12A/Holley 4bbl        / 
       \________67 Camaro RS - 350/4spd________/ 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: Phil Crooke <crookeps@ctrvax>
Subject: API GL-3 -- GL-5
X-Xxdate: Thu, 12 Nov 92 15:45:14 GMT
Organization: Vanderbilt University
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d11
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 15:45:10 GMT

I am sure that this question has been address in this newsgroup before,
but I am a new reader....

What are the differences between GL-3, GL-4, and GL-5 gear oil?  I have a
1986 Nissan 4x4 pickup with a 5 speed.  The owners manual says GL-4 for
transmission and transfer case and GL-5 for the differentials.  In the
auto parts stores, most gear oils seem to be GL-5 and indicate that they
are suitable for manual transimissions and differentials.  I once hear
that GL-5 contained an additive that was harmful to the synchronizers
(some chemical reaction), but I don't know if this has any truth for
latest API GL-5 oils.  Is there an 800 number set up by the oil companys
that is available for technical questions like this?
From: lihan@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Bruce G. Bostwick)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: dipstick paint?
Date: 7 Nov 92 18:14:20 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin, Austin TX

I have been thinking about painting my dipsticks, partly to make them
easier to read, and partly to make them easier to reinsert into their
wonted holes in the engine and transmission.  Is there a paint that is
suitable for this sort of thing?  Anything to look out for?

I mainly want to paint the engine oil dipstick, at least the part
below the plug seal, and I wish to paint it white so the oil will
contrast well.  I'd like to do the same to the ATF dipstick but it's
not as critical since it has a flat back I can check the markings
against.  I was thinking about an epoxy-type spray paint, surface
prepared by wirebrush, sanding, and degreasers, and cured by mild
heat.  Will this be satisfactory or will it react with the oil at
operating temperatures?

Please send your reply by e-mail, even if you do post to the net -- I
don't get many chances to read this newsgroup lately..

-- 
<BGB>
lihan@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu        /     "I can't complain,
(really Bruce Bostwick)        /   but sometimes I still do"
from the great state of TEXAS /         --Joe Walsh--
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks)
Subject: Re: Olds Trouble Code Definition 53 = ?
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 13:53:40 GMT

In article <NBc3TB1w165w@seanews.akita.com> utealt@seanews.akita.com (john tigue) writes:
>     I have an 84 Cutlass Supreme from Olds.  The ECM (Electronic Control 
>means:  Faulty ECM.  Does anyone have better information than this?  Any
>details will be greatly appreciated.  Thank you.
> 

That's all you need to know. A faulty ecm means the computer that controls
your electronic everythings on the engine is dead, dying or diseased. The 
fix is to replace it. If the car has less than 50k miles on it, take it to
the dealer - this is an emissions-related freebie. Otherwise, buy one.
 
Ted Brooks
 ______________________________________________________________________
| Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are my own, and do not reflect    |
| those of my employer. Advice is free, but you get what you pay for.  |
|                               ________                               |
|                         _____|  1955  |_______                       |
|                        /      Chevrolet      /                       |
|                       /______  BelAir  _____/                        |
|                              |________|                              |
|______________________________________________________________________|
From: steveo@mel.dbce.csiro.au (Stephen Oakes)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: How do transmissions work?
Date: 11 Nov 92 03:01:35 GMT
Organization: CSIRO, Div. Building Constr. and Eng'ing, Melb., Australia

Can anybody send me a reasonably detailed description of how transmissions
work, both manual and automatic.  Pointers to books, etc would also be
useful.

Thanks already,

--
| Stephen Oakes      CSIRO Division of Building, Construction and Engineering |
|                    Post Office Box 56, Highett, Victoria, Australia   3190  |
| Internet: steveo@mel.dbce.csiro.au  Tel: +61 3 252 6000 Fax: +61 3 252 6249 |
|_____________________________________________________________________________|
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Break-in period
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 5 Nov 92 16:19:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> I thought there was no such thing as "special oil for breakin".  As I
-> understand it, it just regular oil, but you have all your metal

 My GM service manual says your new Chevrolet comes with 10-weight
break-in oil, which should be changed at the first engine service
interval.

 Of course, the manual is for the 1959/60 Chevrolet, so things might be
different with later model cars...
                                                                                          
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ravalent@mothra.syr.EDU (Bob Valentine)
Subject: Windshield Replacement
Organization: Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 92 01:29:15 EST


   I just recieved the extreme displeasure of discovering that 
some a**hole decided to try his/her baseball bat on the 
windshield of my '71 Cutlass.  
   Happily, I have a extra windshield (used) for the car, and now I
just need to install it.  What I need to know is wheater I should
use the "urethane" goo that comes in a caulk-type tube or if 
I should use the tar-like strip to mount the windshield.   
   I've replaced the winshields in '60s Mopars, but they use a 
gasket for mounting.  I'm in the dark on mine.  My glass seems to
be mounted in the tar-like stuff.  I'm not concerned with what 
was origenally there, but rather which is considered to give a 
better seal.  

Thanks,
    --->Bob
     ------> ravalent@mailbox.syr.edu

p.s.- I'm gonna try and do this this weekend, so I would really 
      appreciate fast responses......

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: tratschu@vipunen.hut.fi (Kalevi Ratschunas)
Subject: Re: The Gasaver: what's the deal
Organization: Helsinki University of Technology, Finland
Date: 12 Nov 92 13:26:58 GMT

 Anyone know about this SCAM?

  This is what a gadget called the Vitaliser claims:

 increased fueleconomy, reduced emissions, increased horsepower ...

this is how it works:
"  the core of the Vitalizer consists of unique percentage of the following,
dissimilar metals: Nickel, zinc, copper, tin and silver. The core is encased
within a copper housing that connects directly into the fuel line and treats
the fuel before being mixed with oxygene. The core has elongated ridges that
promote a swirling action in the fuel over the core, thereby creating an
electrostatic reaction between the core and the fuel being treated.

 The swirling fuel molecules, upon striking the dissimilar metals of the core
became polarized. Then, when the fuel is sent to the combustion chamber and 
evaporates, the electrostatically charged fuel molecules(now having the same
 polarity), tend to repelone another, causing them to  be dispersed more 
thoroughly and evenly throughout each combustion chamber. The more evenly
dispersed fuel vapor burns far more completely and efficiently..."


   Ipossible

         Cal
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Break-in period 
From: erkamp@JANUS.ARC.AB.CA (Bob Erkamp)
Date: 5 Nov 92 11:46:44 MDT
Reply-To: erkamp@JANUS.ARC.AB.CA
Organization: Alberta Research Council

In article <1992Nov4.163125.9407@sal.wisc.edu>, dan@larry.sal.wisc.edu (Dan Roehre) writes:
> I recently had my SAAB 16V turbo engine rebuilt.  Installed
> were new pistons, exhaust valves, timing chain tensioner,
> and the block was rebored double oversize.  For break-in 
> procedure, my mechanic recommended varying the RPM's and 
> not going over 3000 RPM for 500 miles.  What is considered a good
> number of miles for break-in?  I changed oil after 325 miles 
> and plan to do so again after another 500 miles. I planned taking
> it easy on the engine until I had about 1000 miles on it and then 
> drive it like I normally do.  Is this enought miles?  
> Thanks.
> Dan Roehre (dan@larry.sal.wisc.edu)

This sounds right. You want to make sure you vary the RPM's and should keep the
top speed to 55 MPH for the break in period. Treat it the same as breaking in a 
new engine.

Bob
From: rhaar@albert.cs.gmr.com (Bob Haar)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: BLOCK LEARN?
Date: 13 Nov 92 17:23:42 GMT
Reply-To: rhaar@albert.cs.gmr.com
Organization: G.M. Research and Environmental Staff

In article 19734@sequent.com, troy@sequent.com (Troy Wecker) writes:
|>
|>The 1991 Chevrolet Truck Emissions Manual (Helm) in the (Electronic
|>Control Module System) refers to "block learn values".  As far as I
|>can guess this seems to be some data value(s) stored in the ECM.  It
|>can be viewed by a Scan Tool.  Diagnostic charts give normal values to
|>expect.  It also appears to be lost when the vehicles battery is
|>disconnected.  This would lead me to believe it is somehow generated
|>by the ECM and stored in there.
|>
|>How is the "block learn value" generated?
|>How is it used by the ECM?
|>

Typical (at least GM) engine controllers use a collection
of parameters called "calibration data" within the various
control loops to modify how a more general algorithm works
for a specific platform/engine/transmission/option_content
package. These are usually stored in ROM or PROM, and are the
same for all similar cars. 

The "Block Learn Values" are a set of fine-tuning parameters
that are adjusted by adaptive control algortihms in the ECM
to better match the specifics of your particular vehicle. This
is done to compensate for variations in individual components and
for cahnges in the components over time. If these parameters
are stored in battery-backed RAM, there values are lost when
you disconnect power from the battery (or replace the ECM). 
In that evenet, the ECM just goes back to the default values
are starts learning a new fine-tuning calibration from scratch.


---
	Robert Haar               InterNet : rhaar@gmr.com 
	Computer Science Dept., G.M. Research and Environmental Staff
DISCLAIMER: Unless indicated otherwise, everything in this note is
personal opinion, not an official statement of General Motors Corp.


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: zzang@stat.ufl.edu (zzang)
Subject: Re: Dirty spark plug, how to fix?
Originator: zzang@manta
Organization: University of Florida
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 92 15:28:30 GMT

In article <iceman.721174113@camelot> iceman@camelot.bradley.edu (Christopher Ice) writes:
>
>Well, if it was running rich, ALL of the plugs would be "dirty"...not just
>one.  This leads me to ask if it really isn't an oil-consumption problem in
>that particular cylinder.  If that cylinder's rings are a little worn, oil
>squeezes into the cylinder and reacts in the combustion process creating a
>thick black soot that collects on the plug.
>
>Well, you can clean the plug almost anyway you want.  I have heard of people
>brushing it with kerosene, sanding them with fine sand-paper, steel-wool, wire
>brush...almost any way you want.  You can't really hurt a plug, except if you
>chip/break the procelain or change the gap by being a little too assertive.
>
>About the cylinder buring oil, I wouldn't worry about it.  In a car that's
>almost 13 years old, it's not worth the trouble of tearing the engine apart
>unless there are other things to do...ie. all cylinders are blowing-by.  A
>simple compression test will tell you if the cylinder is leaking or not.
>
>I would be wary of the "carbuerator" repair your dealer has
>suggested...because, as I said, ALL the plugs would be dirty, not just one of
>them.
>

Hello, Chris.
Thanks very much for the helps!
in my case, ALL the plugs are EVENLY covered by the
carbon deposits; so as you said, this is the 
carburettor's fault. but I am just wondering
if the carburettor has leaks of the air,
the problem should be too much air for combustion.
but the carbon deposits indicate too little air
for combustion. as you may observe when you don't
have sufficient air for burning the wood, you
will end up with carbon residues.

-- 
Zhuo Zang[~{j0WA~}]
Department of Statistics
University of Florida            Email: zzang@stat.ufl.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: seanr@lobo.rmhs.colorado.edu (Sean Reifschneider)
Subject: Re: Starter Motor
Date: Thu, 05 Nov 1992 05:26:59 GMT
Organization: Rocky Mountain High School, Fort Collins, CO

In article <1992Nov4.131608.2230@ultb.isc.rit.edu> srw8050@ritvax.isc.rit.edu writes:
>This is a difficult question.  I just bought a '87 Celica.  I have 
>problems starting it on occasions.  Sometimes when the key is turned 
>the starter motor spins without engaging the flywheel.  I've checked
>the fly wheel for any worn or broken teeth and it's in perfect condition

I've had a similar problem.  It took me about 6 times of pulling it out
and working on the starter, but I can now replace the starter in an '84 RX-7
in 10 minutes.  :)  Anyway, the problem was with the clutch in the starter.
I took it in to the auto parts place, and they tested the starter.  Said it
wasn't pulling too many amps, and the solenoid still worked...  I ended up
replacing only the clutch on the starter (but also buying a solenoid for
$70).  The clutch took 3 days and $35 to fix (and about an hour once I got
it off).

Sean
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: puter@orphan.nashvil.ingr.com (PuterDude)
Subject: Re: Underdrive pullys - Any experiences?
Organization: Intergraph
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 16:10:22 GMT

jimv@hienergy.Eng.Sun.COM (Jim Vienneau  - Sun Microsystems) writes:
> clogan@redorc.chi.il.us (Sigmond Freude) writes:

>Underdrive pulleys make a hella lot of difference. I have serpentine underdrive
>>pulleys that i put on my boss 302 ranger(yes i have a ranger with a 302 in it)
>>bit thats another story. Anyway underdrive pulleys will increase your horses
>>about 25-30. You will gain anywhere from .3 to .8 on a quarter mile too. so if
>>you are thinking of going with them go ahead!!
>
>Huh? 25 to 30HP??? From where? Not from the alternator, if the battery is 
>healthy it should be less than 1HP, not from the cooling system, not
>from the power steering, you got a 50KW generator up there or something?
>I can see *maybe* 5 or so HP at a cost of cooling and charging capacity, but
>not 25 to 30HP.  

The companies that advertise the underdrive pulleys claim 10-15 HP. And
everyone knows what kind of claims companies make on their own  products.

My best guesstimate would be 5-8 HP. (Take what the company claims and
cut it in half for a reality check)

-- 
(Puter is a deranged individual at puter@no1home.nashvil.ingr.com)
Die Welt ist alles, was der Fall ist.	-- Ludwig Wittgenstein
From: vbreault@rinhp750.gmr.com (Val Breault)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Auto in neutral at light
Date: 13 Nov 92 20:09:39 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Organization: General Motors Research Labs
In-reply-to: Holt@cheme.washington.edu's message of 13 Nov 92 17:53:53 GMT

In article <Holt-131192095050@cheme-kinetics.cheme.washington.edu.> Holt@cheme.washington.edu (Brad Holt) writes:

   Ok I just got my first automatic transmission vehicle (for towing).
   Question:  Suppose I come to a long stop light. After I have stopped s
   hould I just leave it in drive or put it in neutral?

(Sigh) 
1 - Read your owners manual
2 - Do everything your owners manual says

Your automatic transmission (actually the whole car) was ENGINEERED.
People that take great pride in their work analyzed the requirements
and engineered a solution that meets those requirements.  Some trade-
offs may have been made, but requiring the operator to change gears 
at stop lights is beyond reasonable; approaching absurd.

   Brad
-val-

--

Val Breault - GM Research - vbreault@gmr.com - N8OEF
Instrumentation dept., 30500 Mound Rd., Warren, MI 48090-9055
The opinions expressed by the author do not necessarily reflect 
those of GMR or those of the General Motors Corporation.
From: bohdan@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (bohdan.l.bodnar)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: TESTING of antifreeze chemical balances?
Date: 11 Nov 92 04:39:38 GMT
Article-I.D.: cbnewsd.1992Nov11.043938.28910
Organization: AT&T

In article <1992Nov10.211239.7667@mlb.semi.harris.com> jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger) writes:
> Regarding the electrochemical testing of corrosion inhibition, what is
>the composition of the probe used? Does it matter? I wonder if the activity
>of the probe is indicative of the activity of iron, aluminum, brass and
>other metal parts, if the probe is another sort?
>-- 
>##########################################################################
>#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
>#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
>#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#


I use the leads that come with the dvm.  I also tried copper wire inserted into
the coolant -- no difference.  The only time I had an "off-the-wall" reading
was when used some wire purchased in an auto parts store. :-)

Try getting a hold of that SAE book I mentioned.  It turns out that certain
probe alloys will over-sensitize the test;  that is, the corrosion protection
may be marginal, but the test will suggest that the coolant must be changed.
The book covers all this.

Bohdan Bodnar
From: andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Add new Horn/Toyota truck
Date: 10 Nov 92 20:01:20 GMT
Organization: Brandeis University

>In article <lfu2kbINNlpn@jethro.Corp.Sun.COM>, keith@badseed.Eng.Sun.COM (Keith) writes:
>> 
> Hey Folks,
> 
> I've been getting really fed up with the horn in my truck which makes the
> standard(please, you're anoying me) sound.  So, I decided to replace it with
> a non-obnoxious but louder horn.  So I take out the old one, and just to test
> it out I put a piece of wire in each of the plugs for the old horn and attatch
> them to the new horn(temp test). I hit the horn and everything sounds ok.  So,
> I go about wiring the thing in, and when I hook up the final wire, it gives a
> spark and a little pop. I blew the fuse.  So, I replaced the fuse and tried
> again.  Blew it again. So, not remembering much from that one class in EE 
> from colledge, I gave up.   Could someone help me out here.  How should I
> wire this thing in?  

Most likely the original horn has both terminals isolated from the
housing whereas the new horn has one terminal connected to ground.
Swap wires.

-andy
From: tnnguyen@tera.cs.umn.edu (Trung N. Nguyen)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: 2-Wheel vs 4-Wheel alignment
Keywords: alignment
Date: 11 Nov 92 19:37:26 GMT
Article-I.D.: news2.1992Nov11.193726.1622
Distribution: na
Organization: University of Minnesota, Minneapolis, CSci dept.

Could someone please tell me what is the different between 2-wheel and
4-wheel alignment (also thrust angle)?  Does each apply to a certain type
of cars only?  I have a 91 Ford Tempo (front-wheel drive) which needs a new
tie-rod end.  Do I need a 4-wheel alignment after replacing the tie-rod end
or is 2-wheel alignment sufficient?  Thanks for any help.

			Trung
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Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech