HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: ralf@iqsc.COM (Ralf)
Subject: After Markeyt Anti Lock Brakes, any good? Who has them.
Organization: IQ Software Corp.
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 18:51:41 GMT
Summary: Need advice.  

  I would like to know if anyone has any info on aftermarket Anti Lock
brakes, they are for an 89 Stanza. Thanks
From: chrisp@regenmeister.Sun.COM (Chris Prael)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Do SPOILERS Really Work??? no.
Date: 14 Dec 1992 22:18:21 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems Inc., Mountain View, CA
NNTP-Posting-Host: regenmeister

From article <1gdv4eINNoen@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>, by cn832@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (J. Grant Montgomery):
> My question is, I have an '85 Toyota Celica Supra and it has a factory
> spoiler on the liftgate.  It does extend across the entire width of the
> car, and it is maybe 3-5" tall.  I drive along I-80 in the valley in CA
> and I get knocked around by winds every once and awhile.  Would I 
> experience more problems with the wind if I didn't have the spoiler?
> I mean is mine doing any good at all or does it just look neat?

The answer is: you will have to experiment to find out.  Configurations
to check are: 1. no spoilers, 2. front spoiler only, 3. rear spoiler
only, 4. front and rear spoilers.  

Any number of us can sit at our confusers and make pronouncements about
what will happen to your aerodynamics if you do thus-and-so.  It will
all be just so much hot air (electronically transmitted).  The only way
you will find out is by testing the configurations that you think might
improve your car's behavior.  You may also want to test more or less
extreme spoilers in front and/or in back.

Chris Prael
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jnissen@austin.ibm.com ()
Subject: Re: clicking noise on intermittent wiper setting
Originator: jnissen@jnissen.austin.ibm.com
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 00:13:09 GMT
Organization: IBM Austin Advanced Workstation Division


My 92 Jeep also makes a clicking noise when the wiper delay is used.
It is designed to do that.  The delay circuit is opening and closing the 
wiper relay.  The sound is the relay that is controlling the wiper motor
on or off.  The relay's are usually large to handle the high current
demands of the wiper motors.  
-- 
 _/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/
 _/      Jim Nissen                jnissen@jnissen.austin.ibm.com  _/
 _/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: engine startup noise
From: stubbs@hawk.cs.ukans.edu (Jerry Stubbs)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 21:59:46 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Kansas Computer Science Dept


I have an '84 Isuzu Pickup with the 2.0 l 4cylinder engine. When I 
start the engine after it sits for a while, there is a lot of valve
noise and the oil light stays on for 10-20 seconds. Of course it is
worse the longer the engine sits. After 4 hours it is only for a 
couple of seconds, but on a cold morning it is pretty bad.

I have tried thinner oils, thicker oils, factory filters, PTFE additive
and am now using Mobil 1.

The engine runs pretty well after it is warm, although it makes a little
noise the first block or two sometimes. IT doesn't use much oil and seems 
to have reasonable power.

I don't really know the milage on this truck, the meter says 73K, but the
seller admitted he changed the dash and claimed it had about 90Kmiles.

I wonder how long this engine will last. I don't really want to invest 
much in the truck as the only thing it has going for it is that it's
never been wrecked.

If anyone has any thoughts on this I would appreciate the input on
net or mail.



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bowmanj@csn.org (Jerry Bowman)
Subject: Re: Check Engine Light on Olds Cutlass Cierra
Organization: University of Colorado Boulder, OCS
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 18:25:03 GMT

In article <1992Dec13.025734.13115@u.washington.edu> olsenc@stein.u.washington.edu (Clint Olsen) writes:
>Hello:
>
>I took my car in to have it scoped at AAA to see if there was anything
>seriously wrong with my car.  I posted previously about my engine
>light problem.
>
>It turns out that when your computer detects an error, it saves the code
>in its memory and will continuously keep the light on until you take it
>into service and have the memory reset.  Whatta way to con the public!  Why
>don't they just put a vending machine inside the hood to turn the light
>off!
>
>Anyway, the guy found a vacuum leak and the error code #53 stored in the
>computer's memory.  I haven't been able to get to an auto parts store to
>buy one of those neat "do it yourself" books.  If anyone knows what that
>code means and/or knows how to reset the computer's memory (yes, I'm tired
>of staring at the f******* light), please send email.
 Try disconnecting the neg. battery cable then reconnect and I think that will erase the computer memory.>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>-Clint
From: amendola@aludra.usc.edu (Dante Alighieri)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: '80 Turbo TA
Date: 19 Dec 1992 08:24:39 -0800
Organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA
NNTP-Posting-Host: aludra.usc.edu

Any advice on squeezing a Chevy 409 into a 1980 Turbo Trans Am, and/or
tips on getting the best performance out of it?



-- 
      Dear Dad:  Hate you, eloping with Mom.  Taking your cigars
                  and sports car.   -- Love, Sigmund
Being a completely uncaring bastard means never having to say you're sorry.
From: filo@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (John Filo)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Need advice, Engine overheated.
Date: 16 Dec 92 05:49:31 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin

A few months ago my engine overheated as the result of a leaky heater hose.
It runs very rough now, and will often die when I come to a stop.

What normally happens to an engine when it overheats?  I don't think the
head is warped or cracked since i don't appear to be getting water in my oil
(isn't that usually one of the symptoms?).  Is it something that a person
with limited experience in auto repair and lots of free time (schools out til
mid januarary) should consider tackling.
My car is a Dodge Shadow, with a 2.2 liter 4 cylinder turbo engine.

Thanks,
John Filo
filo@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: wlsmith@valve.heart.rri.uwo.ca (Wayne Smith)
Subject: Re: Engine Swap - 73 Chevy
Organization: The John P. Robarts Research Institute, London, Ontario
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1992 22:36:53 GMT

In article <3403.88.uupcb@chaos.lrk.ar.us> dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)  writes:
>
>->    I drive a 1973 Chevy Malibu and I'm planning on doing an engine
>-> swap in the near future.  It currently has the 250 inline 6 in it
>-> with a turbo 350 trans.  What I'm looking for is suggestions as
>-> toward what size engine I should look to.  I love the idea of putting
>
> The '73 is a big honker car.  Why not an appropriate engine, like a
>454?

My dad had a '73 or '74 Malibu about 8 or 10 years ago.  It had a
350, and he always said that it was too light in the back end, so
he would fish-tail a little if the road was a little wet.  A 350
with a 4-bll and dual exhaust will give that car more muscle than
99% of the cars on the road now.
(That Malibu is a NORMAL size car.  It's todays cars that are too small).
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz)
Subject: Re: what does 4x4 mean?
Organization: Naval Ocean Systems Center, San Diego
Distribution: rec
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 18:51:18 GMT

In article <1992Dec17.4171.23880@dosgate> "mike knox" <mike.knox@canrem.com> writes:
>Hi:
 
>I hope this is not a stupid question, but I have been wondering exactly
>where the term 4x4 (four by four) came from.
 
not a stupid question at all...

'4x4' refers, as you mentioned, to general 4 wheel drive vehicles, but the
whole story goes back a way... and I'll spare the gritty details...  4x4 is one
of a number of possible designations (these are of military origin) for
indicating total versus driven wheels.  'wheels' in this context *does NOT*
refer to 'tires' or 'wheel-rims', it refers to 'hubs' (in the 'world of
running-gear' a tractor with ten tires mounted as two steering tires (one per
side) and tandem rear axles, powered, mounting duals at each hub would
correctly be identified as 6x4 -- 6 'wheels', 4 of them powered).

so -- 'A'x'B' is interpreted as:  'A'-total-wheels with 'B'-wheels-powered.

and as alluded to above, the designation has military origins.

Walt K.
From: young@gdfwc3 (Mark Young)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Chrome/Re-Chrome Advice Needed!
Date: 14 Dec 92 18:15:16 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: General Dynamics, Fort Worth Division


Greetings!

I am currently restoring a '61 Chevrolet P.U. and I need to have some chromed parts recoated due to light rust pitting.

Also, I am considering having some non-chromed pieces done (to take my truck to the deluxe model trim).

Does anyone have any advice? 

How much should I expect to pay in the Dallas/Ft.Worth area?

Here is a short list of the items I want to have done:

Re-Chromed - Various interior control knob bases, a Chevrolet insignia grille piece, the hood bow-tie and model emblems.

Chromed	- Front/Rear bumpers, head light brackets, a 6'X1' section of the grille.

Thanks in Advance,

Mark Young
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kenny@osf.org (Kenneth Crudup)
Subject: Re: Gasoline differences?
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 15:17:56 GMT

In article <39670097@hpcc01.corp.hp.com>
mtc@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Mark Cousins) writes:

>Will any of the junk loosened up and blown out the exhaust harm the cat-conv
>or anything?

As far as I know, no. It's not "chunks" as I guess people think, but more like
particulate matter. I would assume to the exhaust it just looks like you're 
running rich for a few seconds.

	-Kenny

-- 
Kenny Crudup, Contractor, OSF DCE QA
OSF, 11 Cambridge Center, Cambridge, MA 02142	+1 617 621 7306
kenny@osf.osf.org			OSF has nothing to do with this post.
	  Religion: The longest-running gag ever played on Mankind.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kenny@osf.org (Kenneth Crudup)
Subject: Re: Check Engine Light on Olds Cutlass Cierra
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 04:43:29 GMT

In article <1992Dec13.025734.13115@u.washington.edu>
olsenc@stein.u.washington.edu (Clint Olsen) writes:

>It turns out that when your computer detects an error, it saves the code
>in its memory and will continuously keep the light on until you take it
>into service and have the memory reset.  Whatta way to con the public!  Why
>don't they just put a vending machine inside the hood to turn the light off!

You MUST be kidding.
Hel-lo....Mc Fly....

When the light comes on, there is a PROBLEM. Of *course* they want you to
bring it in, and it's not just to "turn the light off". They want to beep
out the computer, find out what's wrong, and make a diagnosis. If the light
doesn't stay on, people would forget about it, and possibly make a small
problem bigger.

If the computer detects an error, I suppose you want it to forget the whole
thing, and hope that the error happens when the technician has the car,
with all his equipment connected, at speed. Fat chance. This is one of 
automotive's great improvements, and you think it's a scam. Intermittent
problems are a technician's nightmare, and ultimately, yours as well.

Here's the "big secret" you think you're being screwed out of by Big
Business: all that's done is the battery's disconnected for 20 minutes.
Also, if I remember correctly, error 52 and 53 in GM's CCC cpu's mean that
either the calibration ROM or the program ROM have a checksum error. You
may (if I have the codes right) need a new ECM.

I just hope you're not going to ignore the problem now.

	-Kenny

-- 
Kenny Crudup, Contractor, OSF DCE QA
OSF, 11 Cambridge Center, Cambridge, MA 02142	+1 617 621 7306
kenny@osf.osf.org			OSF has nothing to do with this post.
	  Religion: The longest-running gag ever played on Mankind.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: tranny problems
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 20:46:22 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 A disconnected vacuum modulator line seems to act to make upshifts happen
sooner, though that goes against logic. I know I've had lines come off and
the trans would basically shift right away, so I'd be in third by 20MPH.
Reconnecting it made things shift later.

 GM TH400 automatics have used electrical kickdowns since the late '60s at
least. There is no kickdown linkage, just a switch on the gas pedal.
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
From: vbreault@rinhp750.gmr.com (Val Breault)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Car life (was Re: Oil Priming System
Date: 14 Dec 92 20:12:33 GMT
Organization: General Motors Research Labs
In-reply-to: jgd@dixie.com's message of 12 Dec 92 07:13:36 GMT

In article <v8!r!_=@dixie.com> jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond) writes:
   vbreault@rinhp750.gmr.com (Val Breault) writes:

   >Let's take a moment to consider what you're attempting to do....  

<stuff deleted>

   Sorry Val but I have to disagree.  Maybe Detroit junk made a decade ago
   would fall apart from stress cracks and general deterioration (My 79 El Camino 
   certainly has kinda fallen apart everywhere) but certainly not better built 
   cars.  My daily driver is a 75 280Z with a touch over 300k  miles on it.
   With the exception of the engine that I pulled at 260k in order to 
   drop in a turbo motor, everything is original.

<stuff deleted>

   >You may really like the car you currently own and plan to keep it on the
   >road "forever", but most people (perhaps even you) get tired of their
   >daily driver well before the first 100 grand.  

   Tired?  Hell, I like my classics more and more every time I see what passes
   for styling coming out of ALL the factories today.  

<stuff deleted>

   Fanatic?  Don't think so.  Just interested in doing something more
   than operating a 4 wheel transportation appliance.  And interested in
   having a car that my 6'7" frame will fit comfortably in.  Wanna see
   the 4" of head room I have when I sit in my 68 Fury?

   John
   -- 
   John De Armond, WD4OQC

Oh come on John.... REALLY....

John, I don't think ANYONE would argue that you are among the 90th
percentile.  Your tastes, interests, style and character are pretty
uniquely your own.  Please note that I'm not in any way denegrating
you, but instead pointing out what you have said in the past... not
too many people do things the way YOU do.

I really don't know anything about the folks that you hang around with,
but I'll go out on a limb and guess that the average mileage of all your
friends' cars is somewhere between 50,000 and 100,000 miles. 

There are folks that, like you and I, tend to keep cars longer than the
norm.  That's not too hard to accept, but we shouldn't project our minority
opinion upon the rest of the populace.





               |Interested in high performance mobility?  
   Performance Engineering Magazine(TM) | Interested in high tech and computers? 
   Marietta, Ga                         | Send ur snail-mail address to 
   jgd@dixie.com                        | perform@dixie.com for a free sample mag
   Need Usenet public Access in Atlanta?  Write Me for info on Dixie.com.
--
-val-

Val Breault - GM Research - vbreault@gmr.com - N8OEF            \      /|
Instrumentation dept., 30500 Mound Rd., Warren, MI 48090-9055    \    / |
The opinions expressed by the author do not necessarily reflect   \  /__|
those of GMR or those of the General Motors Corporation.           \/   |___
 

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond)
Subject: Super/turbocharged diesels (was Re: Cummins)
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 92 21:27:58 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.

dhepner@cup.hp.com (Dan Hepner) writes:

>And real^2 diesels, such as those which power locomotives.
>Anyone know if these are naturally aspirated? 

The General Motors diesel switch engine (1000 hp, 750 rpm) I used to 
run was turbocharged.  The turbocharger is actually a hybrid in that 
the turbocharger was also spun by the engine through some gearing.
This turbocharger had a turbine wheel almost 3 feet in diameter.

The 15,000 hp diesel engines that drive the emergency generators in
nuclear power plants are almost always turbocharged.

>The ol' D8 I knew and loved didn't have either, and not only was
>ether starting fluid not warned against, it was required for
>all starts.

I've never seen a D8 that wasn't turbocharged.  I've seen several as
I worked as a  heavy equipment mechanic in and right after college.
About the only heavy equipment not turbocharged that comes immediately
to mind are the Detroit Diesel supercharged engines on things 
like Gradalls.  Even our Manitowoc (sp) cranes were turbocharged.

John
-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC               |Interested in high performance mobility?  
Performance Engineering Magazine(TM) | Interested in high tech and computers? 
Marietta, Ga                         | Send ur snail-mail address to 
jgd@dixie.com                        | perform@dixie.com for a free sample mag
Need Usenet public Access in Atlanta?  Write Me for info on Dixie.com.
From: choy@skorpio.usask.ca (I am a terminator.)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: 100 000 miles at redline
Date: 20 Dec 1992 23:33:20 GMT
Organization: University of Saskatchewan, Saskatoon, Canada
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: skorpio.usask.ca

A BMW ad claims their car (or was it just the engine?) was driven for
at redline 100 000 miles straight. The engine showed no signs of wear.
How does this compare to other cars? How does this compare to airliners?

I wonder if BMW drove the car or if they just ran the motor. How fast
would a BMW running at redline be if people had to drive 100 000 miles
in top gear?

Henry Choy
choy@cs.usask.ca
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sarangan@maxwell.uwaterloo.ca (Andrew Sarangan)
Subject: Do-it-yourself garages
Reply-To: sarangan@maxwell.uwaterloo.ca (Andrew Sarangan)
Organization: University of Waterloo
Distribution: ont
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 17:37:01 GMT



Is there a do-it-yourself type garage in the Toronto or KW area ? 
Basically, I am looking for a heated, clean place to work on my car 
sometime this winter. I have all the tools I need.

Since I live in an apartment, I don't have a garage of my own.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks


Andrew
From: walkerr@bigwpi.WPI.EDU (Robert A Walker)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: 400 miles and dead already
Date: 15 Dec 1992 14:31:44 GMT
Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute
NNTP-Posting-Host: bigwpi.wpi.edu

	I have a slight problem, actually it isn't a problem, but
i recently had my 351M in my '78 Bronco rebuilt, it ran me 2400 bucks
with new clutch, pressure plate and everything else, it was bored over
has all new pistons, cam, bearings, valves guides, springs, crank, a new
head, every pump, all valves, the only left original is big pieces of
metal that have been machined.  Anyways, i drove it for 400 miles, following
proper break in procedure, and when i hit about 410 miles, i started hearing
a tap, that increased with engine speed, it was slower than crank speed, so
i'm guessing valve train.  The tapping started getting louder and then all
of a sudden, the tapping stopped and it felt like i was riding on 6 cylinders
or less, also there was a nasty vibration that felt like the vibration 
damper was taken off, but it is still were it should be.  It is under 
warranty, so it will be fixed, but i'm just curious to find out what is
wrong, before i am told, any ideas?
From: jimf@centerline.com (Jim Frost)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Help!Static Charge Shock--Civic
Date: 18 Dec 1992 19:59:49 GMT
Organization: CenterLine Software, Inc.
NNTP-Posting-Host: 140.239.3.202

Three possible fixes that people told me about when I was asking:

1. Hold the frame when you get out of the car.  This will cause
discharge while the static is building and you won't even notice it.

2. Spray the seats with an anti-static spray (the kind used to
eliminate static-cling on clothes).  This doesn't last long but it
does work.

3. Install a discharge plate and always touch that before touching the
car frame.  A discharge plate is essentially a resistance between a
conductive plate and the frame of the car.  The folks on
sci.electronics said that virtually any resistance over 100k ohms will
work.  I'm planning to install a 500k ohm resistance when I get around
to it.

Several people have said that Scotch Guarded seats are a major cause
of static build-up since Scotch Guard is a really good static barrier.
Virtually everone I've spoken with who has a problem with static has
seats treated with Scotch Guard.

jim frost
jimf@centerline.com
Organization: Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 16:43:32 -0500 
From: Nils Hammer <nh0g+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: Cold Start Problem with a Civic

I have a similar stalling problem with my 78 Dodge Aspen wagon. The
latest suggestion I have been given is that it is a vacuum problem, most
likely havein to do with the EGR valve. I haven't worked on it yet
because I am too pissed off. 

Considering all the possible problems people have mentioned it is no
wonder to me that people are enthusiastic about electric cars. I would
like to hear about it when you try something and it works.

Nils
From: pshyvers@pyrnova.mis.pyramid.com (Peter Shyvers)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Leaking seals in master cylinder - easy solution?
Date: 18 Dec 92 21:24:10 GMT
Reply-To: pshyvers@pyrnova.pyramid.com (Peter Shyvers)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Pyramid Technology Corp., Mountain View, CA

In article <1992Dec15.141240.9998@mcnc.org> brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks) writes:
>In article <1gj789INN2ne@agate.berkeley.edu> avk@hafnium.cchem.berkeley.edu (Tony Konashenok) writes:
>>In my Ford, *very* slow and smooth braking triggers the
>>"brake failure" alarm, while a good kick doesn't and even 
>>restores the system to normal. Apparently, it is a leaking
>>rubber seal in the master cylinder.  Does anyone know about 
>>any stuff I can add to the brake fluid to soften the seals 
>>and stop the leak?
>>I used such thing for power steering, and it helped.
>>
>>-- 
The gaskets are different, as the fluids are different.  This doesn't work
for brakes.

What appears to happen in the master cylinder is that the "cup" that the
brake pedal presses on (and in turn presses against the fluid in the bore in
the master cylinder) either has worn, has hardened, or has a slight tear.

Pressing quickly causes the cup to flare and seal, either within the tear or
against the bore wall. Pressing slowly prevents this, and the fluid leaks 
past the cup. The brake system (likely fore-and-aft) detects the imbalance
in pressure, and trips the light.

DON'T TRY TO FIX THIS ON THE CHEAP.   You'd probably take the health of your
brakes a lot more seriously if you ever tried to stop the car without 'em.
Replace the master cylinder, or rebuild it, and be done with it.
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 16:55:00 EST
From: <QXF1@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Civic drifts

Hi everyone, I have a problem with my 82 Civic.  It drifts slowly toword
left if I release the steering wheel.  I went to a shop today and had them
check up.  They said the alignment (what I thought the problem was) was
good.  They also check the brakes.  All four wheels are good without
dragging.  After swapping the two front tires, nothing changed.

They couldn't figure out the reason. Me either.

I need help. Thanks.

Ching
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech