HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: sweet@adobe.com (Dick Sweet)
Subject: Re: Hardwood floor over concrete slab ?
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated, Mountain View
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 19:32:40 GMT


In a recent article, stellaw@hpindda.cup.hp.com (Stella Kwong) asks:
>
>
>     Is it a good idea to put hardwood floor in the kitchen? Can I 
>     clean the hardwood floor with water every other week? 
>  
>     Also, is there any problem putting hardwood floor on top of 
>     concrete slab? I know hardwood floor can be glued instead of 
>     nailed, but my contractor told me that the moisture from the
>     concrete slab could create bubbles underneath the hardwood 
>     and eventually it would damage the hardwood floor.  
>
>     Is this true? Is hardwood floor over concrete slab possible? 
>     
>
>     Thanks,
>     Stella
>----------

We have a hardwood floor in our kitchen which is installed on top of a slab
(with some sort of black goo).  It's 3/4 inch thick parquet squares (somewhat
oversized to match the floors in the rest of the downstairs of our house).
It is finished with urethane varnish.  We wash it periodically, but don't
let water stand for long periods.  When we had housecleaners it was washed
every week :^).  We love the floor and have had no adhesion problems even
though about a third of the slab was new when the floor was laid.  We've
had advice (which we have followed) to have it recoated about every 5 years.
It's currently less than 10 years old, so I'm not sure when we will coat
it again (we were removing even more carpeting and refinishing floors when
we had the kitchen coated the second time).

Dick
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: stever@meaddata.com (Steve Rothenberg)
Subject: Help With Driveway Lights
Organization: Mead Data Central, Dayton OH
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 20:06:14 GMT
Distribution: usa

I have lights along my driveway, they are single bulb outlets,
and are hooked to a light switch in the garage. The only way for
the lights to go on right now is if I remember to turn it on.

QUESTION: can I hook up a light sensor right in line to the
existing wiring between the switch and the first light to control
the turning on of the lights?  



-- 
Steve Rothenberg              GO BROWNS                    FOR SALE: 
Mead Data Central             GO CAVS     _____     __o    '51 BOWMAN MANTLE
stever@meaddata.com           GO INDIANS ----      -\<,    INQUIRE WITHIN
stevermeaddata@uunet.uu.net             -----   ( )/ ( )
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Blown-In Insulation & Vapor Barriers
Date: 17 Nov 92 06:14:27 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <lggg4qINNfn0@news.bbn.com> isidro@BBN.COM (Isidro Castineyra) writes:
>A neighbour of mine had his house insulated by blowing cellulose into
>the exterior walls. He swears by the process, and his house does feel
>much tighter than mine (the houses are almost identical).  I have
>heard that because it is almost impossible to install a vapor barrier,
>the insulation can trap humidity inside the walls. This could damage
>the structure in the long run. What is the net-wisdom on this?

This is somewhat true, though, the effect won't be particularly
drastic except in the walls of the house where there's lots of
moisture (ie: bathrooms) and low winter temperatures.  It's *much*
more of a problem in ceilings.  There are vapor barrier paints,
and vinyl wall paper may also act as a vapor barrier which can alleviate
this problem.  Existing oil-based paint of any type is probably
good enough in most situations, latex is a little more porous. 

If the ventilation is good, moisture won't be a problem.  But if there's
lots of ventilation in the walls, you're not insulating very well
either.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: sasmyc@firefly.unx.sas.com (Mark Craver)
Subject: Re: How to cut back my heat bill?
Originator: sasmyc@firefly.unx.sas.com
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 18:38:27 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: SAS Institute Inc.


In article <1992Nov20.175535.1694@osf.org>, drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas S. Rand) writes:
>
>Although Stavros debunked this elsewhere in this thread,  I'll
>do it here.  The laws of thermodynamics says that the heat loss
>is directly proportional to the temperature delta.  It is never
>more expensive to let the house cool down and reheat.  It is not
>like a car,  the furnace operates at essentially a constant efficiency.
>In fact,  the furnace is probably a bit more efficient in the longer
>runs for reheat,  but doesn't make a big difference.

I will buy this for a furnace, but what about the "high" efficiency 
heat pump.  Isn't there something that kicks in when you turn the heat
up a certain amount, that makes the heatpump very inefficient?  Wouldn't
this support the constant heat theory for residences with heat pumps?
I'm just thankful that mine's a high efficiency one, because if it
weren't, I couldn't afford to operate it!  8*}
 
-- 
*****************************************************************
* Only one man ever understood me. . .     Mark W. Craver       *
*         and he didn't understand me!     SAS Institute, Inc.  *
* - Philosopher George Wilhelm Hegel       Cary,  N. C.         *
*****************************************************************
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: mje@pookie.pass.wayne.edu (Michael Joseph Edelman)
Subject: Re: How to cut back my heat bill?
Reply-To: mje@pookie.pass.wayne.edu
Organization: Wayne State University
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 18:09:10 GMT

I have an older (1938) two bedroom house with a full basement. Total finished
space is 980 ft^2, according to the last owner. I installed a programmable
thermostat a few years ago, setting back the normal 68F temperature to 60 during
the day and 65 at night. My total natural gas bill for the year, *including* 
hot water for kitchen, bathing and laundry, was about $400. 

I'm told you want to avoid too far a setback as it takes more energy to bring
the house back up to temperature. I don't know what the factors involved are,
but was told that the gas company recommends no more than 10 degrees. On extended
vacations you can go further; I set it back to about 50.

                  --mike
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: mgreen@cs.toronto.edu (Marc Green)
Subject: Sump Pump Questions
Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of Toronto
Date: 21 Nov 92 19:55:31 GMT

Last year I had a submersible sump pump with a float installed. It doesn't
seem to work quite right. It often stays on even indefinately until I
disconnect the power. If I plug it back in, it then stays off. Is this
normal behavior or is there something wrong with it? Is the someway that I
can back it up in case of failure?

Marc Green
Trent University

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: lenny@bnr.ca (Len DePalma)
Subject: HELP! Moisture in Ceiling Drywall/Strapping 
Reply-To: lenny@x400gate.bnr.ca
Organization: BNR Ottawa, Fiber Systems Development
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 92 18:35:28 GMT

Due to a poorly timed (IMO) winter construction schedule, the drywall
and/or strapping in the ceilings of our new home were contaminated with
water which resulted in a wavy/buckled surface.  IE: the drywall was
put up several days before the attick insulation was blown in, the
resulting moisture generated at the vapour barrier seeped into the
ceiling materials.  The ceilings were deemed "acceptable" by the builder
(of course!), but the Ontario New Home Warranty Program has decided in
our favor (Yay!) and instructed the builder to "fix the problem" - how's
that for vague!

The builder has proposed to re-strap and hang new drywall *on top of*
the existing ceiling surface.  I had hoped they would opt to replace the
existing drywall and straping because 1) this would ensure the
imperfections in the current ceilings are not transferred into the new
ceilings and 2) the ceilings would not be lowered by 1.5 inches.
However, according to the builder, the former is a lot less work (read
$$$) than the latter, but will achieve the same effect (i.e. a
reasonably flat ceiling).

To anyone who has relevant experience... will the solution proposed by
the builder work?  What other alternatives do we have?  (We wish to
work 'with' rather than 'against' the builder on this... but we also
want to ensure they get it right this time, for obvious reasons!)

Many thanks for any advice, please use email and I will post a followup
if others are interested.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
INTERNET: lenny@bnr.ca                 Any opinions expressed are mine.

"You get the most noise from the emptiest barrels."  (Burton Cummings)
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Providing ground (not an FAQ)
Date: 18 Nov 92 07:32:58 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <BxvEL9.IF1@access.digex.com> nbull@access.digex.com (Nicholas Bull) writes:
>I've read the FAQ and I don't think the answer to my question is
>in it.  If not, flame away!

FWWOOOOSSHHHHH!

I feel better now ;-)

>I want to make a 2-prong ungrounded outlet into a 3-prong
>grounded outlet (to connect a surge-suppressed computer to).  On
>the other side of the wall, a few feet higher and to the left, is
>a properly grounded 3-prong outlet.  Can I do either of the
>following?

>1) (Preferably), drill a hole through the wall, and extend the
>ground wire from the existing 3-prong grounded outlet, probably
>using a conduit to take it to the presently-ungrounded 2-prong,
>which would then be converted to a (hopefully) properly grounded
>3-prong; or

This is obliquely covered in the FAQ where it talks about
multiple circuits in a box.  If the two boxes are on different
circuits, it's contrary to code (or, at least, the inspectors
will get nasty) to connect parts of them together.  Even if just
the "ground" wires.  The problem being, for example, that disconnecting
the 3-wire circuit to work on something kills the ground on the other
circuit too.  And *migh* electrocute you while you're working on it...

>2) do the same but extend all three wires from the existing
>3-prong grounded outlet to the ungrounded 2-prong, disconnecting
>it from the old wiring (I hope it's at the end of the circuit,
>not the middle or beginning).

It'd probably be more effective to simply add a new box & outlet
fed from the 3-prong receptacle.  Why bother disturbing the old
receptacle and wire?  It might start falling apart on you
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: nbull@access.digex.com (Nicholas Bull)
Subject: Re: Providing ground. THANKS for replies!
Organization: Express Access Online Communications, Greenbelt, MD USA
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 13:51:22 GMT

Thanks to those who replied to my question about how to provide
ground to a 2-prong outlet I wanted to convert to 3-prong.  The
"correct" answer for my circumstances is to simply install a new
outlet and add it to the good 3-prong circuit that is on the
other side of the wall.

The idea of simply running the ground wire from the 2-prong to
that circuit seemed too simple to be a good idea and several of
you pointed out exactly what was bad about it--work on the other
circuit might disrupt the ground.  Worse, while the ground was
disturbed, if something which was connected downstream sent
current down the ground line, e.g. a surge suppressor, then
zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzap! to the poor sod working on the upstream
circuit.

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: manes@magpie.nycenet.edu (Steve Manes)
Subject: Re: Help With Driveway Lights
Organization: Manes and Associates, NYC
Distribution: usa
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1992 07:07:15 GMT
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL7]

adams,john (jadams@vixen.cc.bellcore.com) wrote:
: In article <1992Nov19.200614.1396@meaddata.com> stever@meaddata.com (Steve Rothenberg) writes:
: >QUESTION: can I hook up a light sensor right in line to the
: >existing wiring between the switch and the first light to control
: >the turning on of the lights?  
: 
: Absolutely!  You need to determine the "load"  (wattage) to be switched and purchase 
: a sensor capable of more than that load. In this configuration the sensor will 
: control the hot lead which feeds all the driveway lights.

Depending on the installation, it's sometimes more convenient, and
certainly safer, to use a 12v DC sensor, mounted someplace central,
to control a 120v AC relay, mounted in a weatherproof location.

-- 
Stephen Manes					   manes@magpie.nycenet.edu
Manes and Associates/Commontech-NoHo		   New York, NY, USA  =o&>o

From: philn@mothra.rose.hp.com (Phil Nielsen)
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 01:12:52 GMT
Subject: Re: Ceiling Fan Recommendations Wanted
Organization: HP Networked Computer Mfg. Operation
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house


We have Liberty (I think) and Hunter fans.  The house came with the Liberty
52" fans, and that is the only name I could find on it; they use the 
Casablanca accessories.  They are very quiet, well balanced units, although
one of them has begun to "hum" a bit at low speed (after three years of 
rather heavy use in summer and winter).

The Hunters are a lower-line 42" unit that we got on a great deal at a local
lighting store.  We mounted them in the low-profile fashion (no downrod).
They are really only designed to accept Hunter fixtures, but I think you
can adapt some of the other accessories with some ingenuity.  They are
very quiet, and two of the three I installed required no balancing.

Advice:  I've installed several fans (mostly cheapies).  Don't buy cheap 
	 fans; get quality designs and workmanship.  I have heard (but 
	 cannot personally attest) that Hunter does make different fans 
	 for home improvement stores than they do for lighting dealers.
	 Pay a little more, get good stuff.

Phil Nielsen
From: stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil (William Stoffel)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: HELP: My refer. won't refe!
Date: 20 Nov 92 18:25:55 GMT
Reply-To: stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil (William Stoffel)
Distribution: na
Organization: Annapolis Detachment, CARDEROCKDIV, NSWC

In misc.consumers.house, jhart@qa1.WichitaKS.NCR.COM (Jim Hart) writes:

>In article <BxMLB2.7F5@vcd.hp.com> scottb@vcd.hp.com writes:
>>I have an eight year old refridgerator/freezer (bottom freezer) that is not
>>The freezer, however, was just fine.  I pulled the rear panel off of the
>>freezer compartment exposing the coils.  The coils were caked with ice, which
>>
>>Is there something else I should be doing or looking at (like a new unit!)?
>>Scott Bigelow
>
>This is exactly what happens when the blower fan quits.  The freezer/
>compressor is still ok but the cold air can't circulate to the refer
>part - thus the "freeze up" in the freezer and no cold elsewhere.  Find
>the fan and replace it - could be somewhat non-obvious in its location,

Sorry, I've been out of town & just noticed this. Jim may well be correct,
but there is another possibility. These designs often (always?) have
electrical heaters in the same tube bundle with the evaporator coils.
This heater is supposed to periodically come on to defrost the evaporator
coils. When the heater fails (and they sometimes do) the evaporator
will build up heavy frost to the point that the air flow to the chill
section can become completely blocked. A 3rd (but less likely) possibility
is a low refrigerant charge.

Good luck - Bill
__________________________________________________________________________
Bill Stoffel              |  CARDEROCKDIV, NSWC  |First things first!     |
stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil |  Code 2759           | (But not necessarily in|
(410) 267-3825            |  Annapolis, MD 21402 |that order) - The Doctor|
_________________________________________________|________________________|
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: rogerv@sco.COM (Roger Vortman)
Subject: Re: Cleaning Fireplace Insert
Organization: The Santa Cruz Operation, Inc.
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 22:34:06 GMT


>>Anyway, I had forgotten how dirty the fireplace was.  More than just ashes, it
>>has a lot of black soot on the inside.  Any suggestions on how to clean this? 
>>In particular, the glass door is so dirty that you can't see inside the
>>fireplace.  I'd like to be able to see the fire when we have one!  Thanks.

>Oven Cleaner works well for cleaning glass doors on fireplace inserts.
>For cleaning the inside, use a wire brush.  Wear a mask so you dont'
>inhale the dust.  If the fireplace is dirty, then the chimney probably
>is too.  You can buy brushes that fit the flue or you can tie a weight
>and some rags or brushes to a rope and let it down the chimney from
>the roof.

A very simple and cheap way to do this is to dip part of a paper towel in
water.  Then dip the wet part of the paper towel in some ashes, and rub
this onto the window.  Then wipe the gunk off with the dry part of the
paper towel.  This has worked very well for me.

-Roger
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: lcw@cci632.cci.com (Lori Wershing)
Subject: refrigerator in a garage?
Organization: Northern Telecom, Inc. - Network Application Systems
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 13:27:03 GMT


We have two refrigerators...one for the kitchen and one for ????.  In the past
we kept it in the basement, but in the new house it is actually more 
convenient to have it in the garage.  Is there any reason not to put it
there?  We live in Rochester, NY so it does get somewhat cold....will this
damage the motor?

My father thinks that it should be adequately insulated to protect it from
cold.....my husband is willing to move it if necessary......what do you folks
think?

All comments appreciated........Lori.


Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: sorbrrse@rtsg.mot.com ()
Subject: Re: Getting Ready to Sell House: How to Make it Most Appealing?
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 17:30:25 GMT

In article <1992Nov12.181139.20731@donner.SanDiego.NCR.COM> davel@booboo.SanDiego.NCR.COM (David Lord) writes:
>
>If there is any possible way you can do it you should find another
>home for your pets (particularly dogs) while the house is on the
>market. Alternatively you may be able to restrict them to just a
>portion of the yard (a dog run or such). Most buyers are uncomfortable
>walking into a backyard if there is a dog there and that makes a big
>difference.

I'd advise a seller to find a different place for dogs and cats both.
Five to ten percent of the US population have respiratory allergies
which are aggravated by pet dander.  Although housecats are not physically
intimidating they are the most allergenic of domestic animals.
They may trigger a severe(ER visit)  or moderate  respiratory reaction
 (e.g. a four hour sinus headache)  or otherwise affect the
 airways of many people.  If I see a cat at the open house,
the amount of time I spend at that house is measured in nanoseconds. 
If I don't see the animal, it might take me several minutes to figure
out that a cat lived there after which I would have seen most of 
your house. 

-Russ

-- 
Russ Sorber, CDP
Software Contractor  -    Opinions are mine, Not Motorolas!
Motorola, Cellular Division
Arlington Hts., IL	(708) 632-4047
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: rlittles@qualcomm.com (Roland Littles)
Subject: D.I.Y installation of Air Cond.
Followup-To: misc.consumers.house
Organization: Qualcomm
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 20:22:41 GMT

I have an existing Central Heating system and would like to add Air
Conditioning.
Has anyone done this themselves, what does it entail, MFGR used, Price,
etc....
Thanks in advance!

Rlittles@qualcomm.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: lowry@watson.ibm.com (Andy Lowry)
Subject: Replacing gas range: DIY?
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 16:21:32 GMT
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center

I need some very quick advice about gas ranges.  We just purchased
one, expecting that our building's superintendent would be able to do
the work of disconnecting the old and reconnecting the new.  Now it
turns out there's a scheduling problem.  Places I've called have been
talking a minimum of about $100 to do this, which seems absolutely
ridiculous.  My question is whether disconnecting the old one is
something trivial that I shouldn't hesitate doing by myself.  I can
still have the building super connect the new range, it'll just have
to sit for a couple of days before he can get to it.  I'm wary of
going anywhere near this, because it's gas.  But if it's a simple
matter of shutting off a valve and then unscrewing a fitting or
something, and there's really very little danger involved, there's
probably no reason not to do it myself.  So if you know how these
things go: do you recommend that I go ahead with this?  If so, can you
describe to me what I should be expecting?  I.e. will I find a
shut-off valve behind the range?  Do I start by just pulling the range
away from the wall, or is there a stiff pipe I need to worry about if
I do that?  Etc...

The new range is arriving tomorrow, and if I don't have the old one
disconnected they won't cart it away for me.  Any quick advice will be
greatly appreciated.
--
Andy Lowry, lowry@watson.ibm.com, (914) 784-7925
IBM Research, P.O. Box 704, Yorktown Heights, NY  10598
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com (Fred Christiansen)
Subject: Re: D.I.Y installation of Air Cond.
Organization: Motorola Computer Group, RT Software
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 23:06:18 GMT

In article <rlittles-161192121944@129.46.176.47> rlittles@qualcomm.com (Roland Littles) writes:
>I have an existing Central Heating system and would like to add Air
>Conditioning.
>Has anyone done this themselves, what does it entail, MFGR used, Price,

I looked into doing this.  Absolutely all the manufacturers/distributors
refused to sell a unit to me since I was not a "licensed HVAC contractor".
It would be interesting, tho, I suppose, if someone did not have this trouble.
-- 
Fred Christiansen, Motorola, 2900 S Diablo Way, Tempe, AZ 85282  "Canajun, eh?"
fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com  ||  uunet!phx.mcd.mot.com!fredch  ||  +1 602-438-3464
  ".. I have set before you Life and Death, blessing and cursing;  therefore
      choose Life, that both you and your children may live"  Deut 30:19