From: tittle@ics.uci.edu (Cindy Tittle Moore)
Subject: rec.pets.cats FAQ (part 2/2)
X-Last-Updated: 1992/07/15
Followup-To: poster
Supersedes: <cats-faq/part2_710226013@athena.mit.edu>
Reply-To: tittle@ics.uci.edu
Organization: University of California at Irvine: ICS Dept.
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 05:01:20 GMT

Archive-name: cats-faq/part2
Version: 1.4
Last-modified: 15 July 1992
Periodicity: 20 days

This is the second and last part of the FAQ (Frequently Asked
Questions) List for rec.pets.cats.  It is posted every twenty days:
updates, additions, and corrections (including attributions) are
always welcome: send email to one of the addresses below.

Copies of both parts of this FAQ may be obtained by anonymous ftp to
pit-manager.mit.edu (18.172.1.27) under
/pub/usenet/news.answers/cats-faq/*.  Or send email to
mail-server@pit-manager.mit.edu with

send usenet/news.answers/cats-faq/part1
send usenet/news.answers/cats-faq/part2

in the body of the message to have both parts emailed to you.



H.  Vomiting.

Some cats vomit all the time; other cats do so relatively rarely.
Vomiting is not a sign of the same sort of distress as it is in
humans.  Because they are carnivores, they need to be able to vomit
quickly and almost at will without feeling sick.

On the other hand, a cat that suddenly starts to vomit, or vomits more
than usual or in some way demonstrates a departure from its normal
habits should be checked by the vet.

1.  Reasons 

Most commonly, a cat vomits because it has hairballs.  To check for
this, examine the vomit carefully for small grayish pellets or lumps
(it doesn't matter what color your cat's hair is).  If these are
present, then hairballs is the problem.  Hairballs occur even with
shorthair cats.  All cats benefit from regular brushing to help
minimize shedding and ingestion of hair.  If your cat is vomiting
because of hairballs, its normal behavior is not affected.  That is,
it will be its usual self immediately before and after vomiting.

To help prevent this kind of vomiting, feed your cat on a regular
basis some petroleum jelly (aka as Vaseline).  If they don't like it,
you can try Petromalt, a malt-flavored petroleum jelly.  Pats of
butter will also work.  To give it to them, if they won't eat it of
their free will, smear some on top of their paw and they will lick it
up as they clean it off.  Be careful to rub it in thoroughly,
otherwise when they shake their paw, you'll have gobs of vaseline go
flying onto the walls or carpet.  Give it to them daily for a few days
if they've just upchucked or are in the midst of dry heaves; go back
down to a weekly dose once they've gotten rid of existing hairballs
and this should keep them hairball free.  Frequent brushing also
helps; every bit of hair on the brush is less hair in your cat's
stomach.

Another common reason for vomiting is overeating, particularly dry
food.  The dry food absorbs water and swells, and then they have to
throw it back up.  If the vomit looks like a semi-solid tube of
partially digested cat food, that's probably what it is.

Sometimes cats vomit when they have worms.  Consult your vet for a
worming appointment.

If cats eat something that obstructs their digestive system, they may
try to vomit it back up.  If you can see some of it in their mouth, DO
NOT PULL IT OUT, especially if it is string.  You may just cut up
their intestines in the attempt.  Take the cat to the vet immediately.

If the cat displays other changes of behavior along with the vomiting,
you should consult the vet.  Eg. listlessness, refusing food along
with vomiting may indicate poisoning.

Periodic throwing up can be a sign of an over-active thyroid.  This is
particularly common in older cats.  Your vet can do a blood test and
find out the thyroid level.  It can also be indicative of a kidney
infection: something that your vet can also check out.

In general, as distasteful as it may be, you should examine any vomit
for indication of why the cat vomited.

2.  Vomit stains

You may now have stains on the carpet that you want to get rid of.
Spot Shot works well at removing stains.  If you're having trouble
with bright red or orange stains, you may want to invest in a cat food
that doesn't use dyes.  That can help considerably in reducing the
stain factor.

I.  Diarrhea.

1.  Possible causes for acute diarrhea.

From: Colin F. Burrows.  1991.  _Diarrhea in kittens and young cats_.  pp.
415-418 IN J.R. August.  Consultations in Feline Internal Medicine. WB
Saunders Co., Philadelphia.

Causes of Acute (sudden onset) Diarrhea in Kittens and Young Cats
*Infections*
  Viral
    Panleucopenia (distemper)
    Feline Leukemia Virus
    Coronavirus
    Rotavirus
    Astrovirus
  Bacterial
    Salmonella
    Campylobacter ?
    Escherischia coli (not documented in cats)
  Parasitic
    Roundworms
    Hookworms
    Coccidia
    Giardia
    Toxoplasma

*Diet* esp. dietary change or raid on the garbage

*Toxic or drug-induced*
   Acetominophen (tylenol)
   antibiotics

*Miscellaneous*
   partial intestinal obstruction

Most common causes are viral infections and dietary changes.

Treatments:  

Rule out parasites with complete fecal exam.  Withhold food for 24-48
hours to rest the GI tract.  Maintain fluid balance with water.  Add a
little sugar to water if kitten is mentally dull...  Severe diarrhea
may require 1-2 ml peptobismal 3 or 4 times daily for no more than 3
or 4 days.

After 24-48 hours, begin feeding, using canned tuna in water, chicken
breast and rice, or cooked egg.  Avoid non-premium dry catfood for
several days.  No milk until feces are normal for 2-3 days.

2.  Causes of chronic diarrhea

Viral and Bacterial
    FIV
    FeLeuk
    Salmonella
    Campylobacter
    Clostridium
Parasites
    as above, except Toxoplasma

Dietary sensitivity

Miscellaneous
  Inflammatory Bowel Diseawse
  Drug Sensitivity
  Inappropriate use of antibiotics
  Bacterial overgrowth??
  Partial intestinal obstruction
  Idiopathic (no known cause)

You should enlist the help of your vet if symptoms persist for more
than a few days, or if your kitten is weak or listless, or refuses to
take fluids.  Dehydration can rapidly kill a kitten.

J.  Neutering.

If you are not planning to breed your cat or put it to stud service,
you will want to neuter it.  Technically, the general term for either
sex is neutering; female cats are spayed and male cats are castrated.
However, general usage is that female cats are spayed or neutered and
male cats are neutered.

1. Castration

Male cats are castrated. A local anesthetic is administered and
several stitches are used to close it up.  You will want to neuter the
male cat after its testicles descend but before its urine odor
changes.  This is typically around 6 months of age.  By neutering
earlier, you prevent spraying (if it has started spraying, it may not
stop after neutering, even though it is no longer hormonally driven).
By neutering later, you allow the testicles and urinary tract full
development; this is thought to reduce the chances of contracting FUS
(growth will stop after neutering or puberty; be aware that the jury
is out on this one).  If surgery must be done on an undescended
testicle then the cost and risk increase.

An intact male cat (a "tom") will spray a foul-smelling urine to mark
his territory, he will roam widely, and he will be involved in more
fights.  Often, he will be more aggressive.  He will be at higher risk
for certain diseases, such as cancer; he will also be more prone to
infection from the injuries in fights.  A neutered male cat will lose
the foul-smelling odor in his urine (but may still spray); he will not
roam as widely nor fight as often.  You will be able to keep him
indoors if you wish.  Contrary to popular opinion, he will not become
more lazy or fat.  Laziness and fatness depend on cat temperament and
how much you feed him.

2. Spaying 

Female cats are spayed; this is an ovario-hysterectomy (uterus and
ovaries are removed).  There are two methods: ventral entry which is
through the stomach muscles in the belly (where a large patch of fur
will be shaved to prevent later irritation of the incision), and the
lateral entry which is through a small incision in the cat's side.
Ventral entry is less expensive, lateral entry has a quicker recovery
time.  You may have to bring your cat back in after ventral entry to
remove stitches; lateral entry uses internal sutures which dissolve.
Ventral entry is much more commonly employed; lateral entry is
relatively rare, and not all vets may know how to do it.

The cat must be put under general anesthesia.  There is always an
element of risk in general anesthesia and while it is rare, a few
rec.pets.cats readers have had their cats die under anesthesia.  The
earlier the female cat is spayed, the better.  Any time after four
months or once the heat cycles have started is good.  Spaying when the
cat is in heat or already pregnant is possible, although some vets
refuse to operate under these circumstances.  On occasion, a female
cat will not have all of her ovaries removed.  The ovaries produce the
hormones that induce heat: if your cat still goes through heat after
being spayed, you may have to take her in for exploratory surgery to
find the missed ovary, or even piece of ovary.

An intact female cat (a "queen") will go through heat which can be as
frequent as one week in four.  You must keep her indoors to prevent
breeding, and she will do her best to escape.  She will spray a foul
smelling substance.  Many cats will meow loudly for long periods of
time.  She will twitch her tail to the side and display her vulva.  If
she becomes pregnant, she will undergo all the risks and expenses
associated with pregnancy (extra visits to the vet and extra food).
Male cats will try very hard to get at her; there are documented
cases, for example, of male cats entering homes through the chimney.
Medication is available that will delay heat; breeders use this to
control the number of times their queens are bred and to work around
cat show schedules.  An unbred, unspayed cat has a much higher risk of
developing cancer of the reproductive system.  Again, spayed females
do not lose their energy or change their personality after the
procedure.

3.  Post-op recovery 

You will need to watch to make sure your cat does not try to pull out
its stitches.  Consult your vet if your cat starts pulling at its
stitches.  You might, in persistent cases, need to get an elizabethan
collar to prevent the cat from reaching the stitches.  Puffiness,
redness, or oozing around the stiches should be also reported to the
vet.

Some stitches "dissolve" on their own; others require a return to the
vet for removal.

4. Cost

The cost can vary widely, depending on where you get it done.  There
are many pet-adoption places that will offer low-cost or even free
neutering services, sometimes as a condition of adoption.  Local
animal clinics will often offer low-cost neutering.  Be aware that
spaying will always cost more than castrating at any given place since
spaying is a more complex operation.  Vets almost always charge more
than clinics, partly because of overhead, but also because they often
keep the animal overnight for observation and will do free followup on
any later complications (a consideration in the case of missed
ovaries).

In the US, there is at least one group, "Friends of Animals" (call 800
information for the number) that will give you a certificate for
low-cost neutering good at many vets.

Quoting actual prices may or may not give you an idea of the cost for
you in your area.  Costs can range from US$10 for castration at a
clinic to US$100 for spaying at the vet's.  This is money well spent.
One pair of cats, allowed to breed, and with 2 litters a year and 2.8
surviving kittens per litter, will account for 80,000 cats in 10
years!

J.  Declawing.

Declawing is the surgical removal of the claw and the surrounding
tissue that it retracts into.  Usually the claws on the front feet
only are removed.  This is sometimes used as a last resort with
inveterate scratchers of furniture, carpet, etc.  However, if trained
in kittenhood, most cats are very good about scratching only allowable
items such as scratching posts (see Scratching).  Britain has made
declawing illegal.  Show cats may not be declawed.

Declawed cats often compensate with their rear claws; many can still
climb well, although their ability to defend themselves is often
impaired and they should not be allowed outside without supervision.
Many declawed cats become biters when they find that their claws no
longer work; others develop displays of growling.  Scratching is one
way of marking territory (there are scent glands among the paw pads),
so declawed cats will still "scratch" things even though there are no
claws to sharpen.

Alternatives are trimming the claws (see section on Trimming Claws) or
"Soft Paws".  These are soft plastic covers for the cat's claws.
Generally, the vet will put them on, but cat owners can do so
themselves if shown how.  They will last about a month despite efforts
|to remove them.  Check the July 1992 issue of _Animal Sense_.  There is
|an informative article titled "Fake Fingernails for Felines?" by Dr.
|Marilyn Hayes at the Rowley Animal Hospital in Rowley, MA.

K.  Aging.

Most cats will reach about 11 or 12 years of age.  Some make it 18 and
very few to 20 and beyond.

According to material provided by the Gaines Research Center, cats
will age 15 years in the first year (10 in the first six months!) and
4 years for every year after that.  Other vets will say 20 years for
the first year, 4 years for each year thereafter.


IV.  PROBLEM BEHAVIORS (INSIDE)

A.  In General.

You cannot discipline cats as you would dogs.  Dogs form social
hierarchies that you can take advantage of by placing yourself at the
top.  Cats form social groups only by necessity and the arrangement is
based on respecting territory, not by respecting the "top dog".  Many
mistakes made with cats are due to thinking that they will react like
dogs.

**Do not *ever* hit a cat or use any sort of physical punishment.**
You will only teach your cat to fear you.

  * You can train your cat not to perform inappropriate behavior by
    training your cat to perform other behavior alternative to or
    incompatible with the inappropriate behavior.

  * Since cats hate to be surprised, you can use waterbottles,
    clapping, hissing, and other sudden noises (such as snapping,
    "No!") to stop unwanted behavior.  However, be aware that these
    tactics will not work when you are not present.  In addition,
    immediacy is key: even seconds late may render it ineffective.
    You must do it as soon as the cat starts the behavior.

  * The face-push has been described by various readers.  This
    consists of pushing the palm of your hand into the cat's face.
    This is best used when discouraging something like biting.  Don't
    hit the cat, simply push its face back gently.  You might
    accompany it with a "no!"

  * Making certain behaviors impossible is another tactic.  Think
    "childproofing": keep food in containers; keep breakable and/or
    dangerous objects out of reach; make sure heavy objects, e.g.
    bookshelves, are stable.  Look for childproofing gadgets and hints
    and think how you can apply them to preventing cat problems.  Even
    when the analogy isn't perfect, physically preventing problems is
    still a good guide.  E.g., defrosting meat?  Put it in the
    (unheated) stove, not out on the counter.

It is always best to train your cat away from undesireable behavior as
soon as possible, as young as possible.  You will have the most
success training your cat when it is young on what is acceptable to
scratch and what is not.  Never tolerate it when it is "cute" since it
will not always remain so.

B.  Plants.

Cats are frequently fascinated with houseplants.  However, you may not
appreciate the attention, which can range from chewing on the plant
leaves to digging or peeing in the plant soil.

For chewing, try spraying Bitter Apple or Bitter Orange on the leaves.
Dusting cayenne pepper on them may also help.  You may wish to grow
some grass or catnip for them as an alternative; plants do provide
them with needed nutrients (the absence of which may be causing their
grazing).

For digging or urinating, cover the dirt with aluminum foil or gravel.
If the plant needs it, add some vinegar to the soil to counteract the
ammonia in the urine.

C.  Spraying.

Some cats start spraying in the house.  You will want to first rule
out any medical causes, such as FUS or cystitis.  It is best to check
with a vet first.  If the problem is medical, then you will need to
simply clean up the odor after the problem is treated, otherwise you
will need to try some of the behavior modification outlined below (and
you'll still need to clean up the odor).

You must remove the odor from items that the cat sprayed on to prevent
the cat from using the same spot again later.  The ammonia smell tells
the cat that this is an elimination spot, so never use ammonia to try
and "remove" the odor!  See (Removing Urine Odor).

Cats sometimes spray to mark their territory so sometimes an area for
your cat that other animals cannot go to will help.  Keeping the
litterbox *immaculately clean* will help in other cases.

Sometimes cats pick small throw rugs with non-skid backing to urinate
on.  This is caused by an odor from the backing that somehow tells
the cat to urinate there (probably an ammonia-like smell).
Cat-repellent sprays or washing the rug *may* help; you might just
have to get rid of that rug.

For persistent spraying after the above steps, try the procedure
outlined in (Housebreaking).

C.  Scratching.

For unwanted scratching, provide an approved scratching post or other
item.  Issue firm "no!"s on unapproved items.  You may wish to spray
Bitter Apple or Bitter Orange (available at most pet stores) on items
that they are particularly stubborn about.  Praise them and give a cat
treat when they use the approved scratching material.  Demonstrate how
to use the post by (yes) going up to it and scratching it like your
cat would.  They will come over to investigate your scent and then
leave their own.

In general, cats will either use a post a lot or never use it.  The
deciding factor can be the material that the post is made out of.  It
has to be fairly smooth (cats usually don't like plush carpet) and
shouldn't be a material that their nails get stuck in.  Once that
happens, they may not use the post anymore.  Natural fiber rope
wrapped tightly around the post appeals to many cats.  Some cats like
plain wood; a two-by-four made available may work well.  Other cats
prefer the kind of "scratching posts" that are horizontal rather than
verticle.

E.  Housebreaking.

It is possible for cats to stop using the litter box or to have
trouble learning in the first place.

Do NOT *ever* try to discourage a cat's mistakes by rubbing its nose
in it.  It never worked for dogs and most certainly will not work for
cats.  In fact, you wind up reminding the cat of where a good place to
eliminate is!

Take the cat to the vet first to make sure there isn't some underlying
medical problem causing the behavior, especially if this is a sudden
change in its usual behavior.  Then rule out other possible sources
for this behavior: make sure that it isn't an objection to the
cleanliness of the litterbox, or the type of the litter (especially if
you recently changed brands), or trouble accessing the box (especially
if the cat is young, old, or injured and unable, for example, to go up
the stairs quickly enough).

At this point, you can housebreak the cat as follows.  Take advantage
of the fact that a cat is very fussy about its personal cleanliness.
Confine the cat to a small area: bathrooms are good.  Put food, water
and bedding on one side, and the litter box in the other.
Occasionally you will have to use an even smaller area if the cat is
determined not to use the litter box.  Leave the cat in the small area
over the next few days while you are gone or sleeping.  Hardcore cases
may need to stay in there all the time.  Keep the water and food fresh
and the litterbox clean.  After several days, increase the area of
confinement, going back down if there are any mistakes, until you are
satisfied that it will not "miss" the litter box any more.

In other cases, what may work is to put several litter boxes around
the house (disposable foil baking trays are good and cheap for this)
in all the places used (be sure to clean the spots first).  As the cat
uses these litter boxes, move the boxes gradually toward where you
want the litter box to wind up, and gradually reduce the number of
available boxes.

F.  Escaping.

The best way to discourage running to the door is never to let the cat
succeed!  After a history of unsuccessful attempts, the cat will stop
trying.  After even one success, the cat will try hard and for a long
time.  

Tip: don't arrive at the door with three bags of groceries in hand and
expect you'll be able to keep the cat in.  Instead, put down all but
one bag and use that bag to block the floor level when you come in.
After you're in, bring in the rest.  In general, spend the time to be
in control whenever the outside door is opened.  Kids will need to
learn how to keep the cat in too.  A waterbottle may help with
persistent cats.  It will pay off later when the cat stops trying to
get out.

Some cats *are* remarkably persistent, and never seem to give up.  

G.  Drape/Curtain Climbing.

|If possible, use tension rods instead of drill-the-hole-in-the-wall
|rods.  The tension rods will simply fall down on top of the cat if
|it tries to climb them.

Otherwise, take the drapes off the hooks and thread them back up with
thread just strong enough to hold them up, but barely.  When the cat
climbs up, the drapes will fall down on it (be sure that the hooks
aren't around to potentially injure the cat).  After the drapes have
remained up for some time, re-hook them.  This has the advantage of
working whether you're home or not.

|Vertical blinds can work very well; cats cannot climb up them, cannot
|shred them, cannot shed on them, cannot be bent the way horizontal
|blinds.  It is furthermore easy for cats to push them aside to look
|outside.  Vertical blinds are usually vertical strips of plastic, but
|they can also come covered with different fabrics to match your decor.
|These kinds are still pretty indestructible.

H.  Cord (and Other) Chewing.

Put something distasteful on the cord to discourage chewing.
Substances to try: tabasco sauce, cayenne pepper, Bitter Apple/Orange,
nail-biting nailpolish, orange/lemon peel.  If you cannot find a
substance that will repel your cat, you may wish to use duct tape to
secure exposed cords.  Duct tape comes in a variety of colors and you
will probably be able to find something relatively inconspicuous.

This will work on other chewed items, as well, although you will need
to check the compatibility of the chewed item with the substance you
put on it.

I.  Biting.

Give a sharp, plantative yowl, like the sound a hurt cat will make.
Pull your hand back (or if that would score furrows down your hand,
let it go completely limp), turn your back on it, and ignore it for a
few minutes.  People are divided on the issue of whether to allow hand
attacks at all or to allow limited hand attacks.  You can train the
cat to do either with the same method.  For the former, always wail
when attacked and then offer a toy to play with instead; for the
latter, wail whenever the claws come out, but allow attack of the hand
up to that point.  Be aware that a cat trained not to use a person as
a toy at all will be more trustworthy around a new baby (see A New
Baby).  You may try hissing at a cat that persistently attacks you.

J.  Garbage.

The best way to prevent this problem is to get a garbage container
with a firm lid.  Do NOT start with container that's trivial to get
into, then gradually move to harder and harder containers: this just
trains the cat to get into the harder container.  A hospital type of
container that opens the lid with a foot pedal is effective and
convenient.  Another is the kind with metal handles that swing up to
close the lid. The important thing is the lid is tight and secure.

Another way to prevent this is to store the garbage can out of reach,
such as in the cabinet under the sink or in a pantry where the door is
kept closed.  If the cat can open the cabinet door, get a childproof
latch for it.

If the problem is one of tipping the container over, several bricks in
the bottom of the container may help stabilize it.  Once the cat is
convinced it can't be knocked over, you can remove the weight.

K.  Counters.

It's not a good idea to let your cat on your kitchen counters or
tabletops.  There are several ways to prevent this.  Leave a
collection of poorly balanced kitchen utensils or empty (or with a few
pennies inside) aluminum cans on the counter near the edge, so the cat
will knock them off if it jumps up.  Cats hate surprises and loud
noises.  Leave some ordinary dishwashing liquid on the counters, or
some masking tape (or two-sided carpet tape) arranged gummy side up.
Don't leave things on the counter that will attract the cat (like raw
meat).

|These same techniques will work for other surfaces like dressers,
|TV's, etc.

L.  Early AM Wakeups.

Cats are notorious for waking their owners up at oh-dark-thirty.
If you wish to stop this, there are several steps to take.

The cat may simply be hungry and demanding its food.  By feeding it
when it wakes you up at an ungodly hour, you are simply reinforcing
its behavior.  If this is why it's waking you up, you can handle this
either by filling the bowl just before you go to sleep so it will not
be empty in the morning, or by ignoring the cat's wakeups and feeding
it at the exact same time convenient to you every morning.  The cat
will adjust fairly quickly to the second.

If it is trying to play, there are again several tactics you can try.
If you make a practice of tiring it out with play just before bedtime,
you can reduce its calls for play at dawn.  What works in some cases
is to hiss gently at the cat.  You can also try shutting it out of the
bedroom.  If it pounds on the door, put it in a bathroom until you
wake up.

In persistent cases, try the vacuum cleaner, eater of noisy kitties.
Go to bed, leaving him out in the hall.  Position the vacuum cleaner
next to the door, inside it.  Plug the vacuum in, and arrange things so
you can switch the vacuum on from your bed (eg, wire a switch into an
extension cord).  Wait for the scratching and wailing at the door.
Turn the vacuum cleaner on.  If cat comes back, turn it on again.
The cat will eventually decide to stop bothering you in the morning.

M.  Toilet Paper.

Four ways to prevent cats from playing with toilet paper:  
  
  * Hang the roll so that the paper hangs down between the roll and
    the wall rather than over the top of the roll.  
  * If the cat knows how to roll it either way, then you can get a
    cover that rests on top of the toilet paper and this will work.
    You can make your own by taking the cardboard core from an empty
    roll and slitting it lengthwise and fitting it over the roll.
  * You can balance a small paper cup full of water on top of the roll.
  * If you are unwilling or unable to use the cover, then close the
    door to the bathroom.

N.  Splashing Water

Some cats like to tip the water dish and empty it all over the kitchen
floor.  You can try placing it on a small rug.  There are large
"untippable" (pyramid-shaped) dishes available at the pet store.  If
the cat then paddles the water out, you may just want to put the dish
in the bathtub.  Cats should always have a source of fresh water
(except for pre-op surgery or prior to a car ride), so removing it
while you are not at home is an unsatisfactory solution.  If the cat
is indoor/outdoor, you may want to put the water dish outside.

O.  Ripping Carpet.

Some cats may develop the annoying and expensive habit of ripping up
carpet.  There are several possible reasons behind this, listed below.
In all circumstances, be sure that there is plenty of items that the
cat *can* scratch.

  * Other "approved" scratching posts may be made of carpet, confusing
    your cat.  Switch to scratching materials that do NOT use carpet.
    Common alternatives include sisal rope, corrugated cardboard, or
    carpet turned wrong-way out.  Retrain your cat onto these items.

  * Some cats rip at doorways that are closed, trying to get through.
    You can put down plastic carpet covering, securing it with nails
    if necessary, through the doorway so that it sticks out on both
    sides.

  * A particular spot may be favored, for no apparent reason.  There
    may be some odor at that spot.  Try cleaning it thoroughly with an
    enzyme-based cleaner like Nature's Miracle and then spraying a
    touch of Bitter Apple or the equivalent on the spot.

    
V.  PROBLEM BEHAVIORS (OUTSIDE)

A.  In General.

Outside cats, especially those not your own, can present you with
difficult problems.  Cats are not regarded the way dogs are under law:
there is nothing that says you have the "right" to keep cats out of
your yard, for example (whereas dogs can be required to be kept
confined or on leash, for example).  There are historical and
practical reasons for this -- but there are still practical steps you
can take to resolve several problems.  This section is written
primarily for people who want to stop other cats (i.e., not their own)
from being a nuisance on their property.

B.  Noise.

Mating cats can make an unbelievable amount of noise under your
window.  If these cats are feral, check with your local animal clinic
about trapping and neutering these cats.  Many will do them at little
or no cost, depending on how many cats you're willing to bring in for
the procedure.  Eliminating the breeding stock in feral cats as much
as possible will also help reduce the stray population in your area
over time, and reduce similar problems like cat fights and spraying.
    
C.  Your Garden.

Between digging and eating in your plants, cats can do considerable
damage to a garden.  There are a number of ways to keep cats from
digging in, chewing on, or eliminating in your garden.

Some people have successfully used the "diversionary" tactic by
planting catnip in another corner of the garden entirely, confining
the destruction to one spot.

|If you have not yet started your garden, put chicken wire down and
|plant between the wire.  Cats dislike walking on the chicken wire and
|most plants (unless they grow too big) do just fine growing between
|the wire.

Other people have reported success with different sprays, gels, and
products specifically formulated to keep animals out of your yard.
Check your local pet store.

Lemon peels, soap slivers (use biodegradeable soap) dipped in cayenne
pepper and other organic materials have also been reportedly successful.

|Cats hate water: surprising them with a squirt gun (or turning your
|sprinklers on) can discourage specific cats from returning.
    
D.  Local "Attack" Cats.

Sometimes there is a problem with a particular cat that fights with
other cats.  If it is feral, try to make arrangements to neuter it, if
possible.  If it belongs to a neighbor, try to discuss the matter with
|your neighbor, and avoid being "threatening."  When approached
|reasonably, most people can be reasonable in turn.  Sometimes your
|neighbor just doesn't know his cat is bothering you.

If the cat actually follows your cat through the pet door, you might
try an electronic pet door to keep it out (see Pet Doors).
    
E.  Your Birdfeeder.

Locate your birdfeeder in an area where the ground is clear, affording
cats no cover.  At the same time, try to locate it *under* something,
like a tree, to provide refuge from attack by other birds.


VI.  ENTERTAINMENT

A.  Scratching Posts.

You can order a large catnip tree from Felix (1-800-24-Felix),
especially if you cannot make one on your own because of lack of
skill, time, or workspace.  Cats especially enjoy being able to climb
up and down these structures.  Big ones should be bolted to the wall
for stability.  Most pet stores sell these things.  Expect to pay no
more than US$100 for a good sized one.  Look for sturdiness and balance.

Sisal has been recommended over carpet for a scratching post cover.
Cats seem to like the texture better, and it helps avoid confusion
over which carpet is the "right" carpet to scratch.

You can also buy rectangular chunks of catnip-treated corrugated
cardboard scratching 'posts', available at pet supply stores for
about US$8 each.  They can be either hung from a door, tacked to a wall
or just laid flat on the ground.  You might have to "show" them how to
use them.  Most cats love the texture of the cardboard (as well as the
'nip).

|You might try used automobile tires placed upright and tied securely.
|Cats that like horizontal scratching posts jump up on it and scratch
|and cats that like vertical scratching posts stretch up and scratch.
|The tires can be bare or themselves covered with scratching material.
|In addition, cats have fun going through and around the tire.

|Other readers have reported using wooden boards wrapped several times
|around with burlap.  The burlap can be replaced as it is shredded.

B.  Catnip.

Catnip is a plant that causes various reactions in cats.  Very young
cats and kittens will not be affected by catnip.  About 20% of cats
are never affected by catnip.  It is not known why or how catnip has
the effect it does on the rest of the cat population.  It is a
non-addictive "recreational drug" for cats with no known harm to the
cat.  There was an article in _Science_ [exact reference?]  on the
neurological effects of catnip on cats.  It seems to stimulate the
same pleasure centers in the feline brain that orgasm does.  Most cats
"mellow out" and become sleepy and happy, others start acting very
kittenish.  A small percentage will become possessive of their catnip
and may snap or hiss at you.

You can find wild catnip plants in most weedy areas, and harvest the
seed.  Or you can buy seed from companies like Burpees or Parks or
Northrup King -- most garden centers have catnip seed this time of
year -- check the "herb" section.  Or even seed racks in the grocery
and discount stores.

Catnip is easy to grow.  You will need to keep the plant itself out of
the reach of the cats as catnip-lovers will quickly destroy it.  The
best strategy is to get some growing, and then pinch and prune it
regularly and give the harvested leaves to your cat.  Keep it in its
own pot, as it will spread rapidly.  Cats will tend to dig up
transplanted catnip and eat it roots and all, but are much gentler on
plants started from seed.  The leaves have to be bruised to release
the odor, and transplanting seems to be enough bruising...

Nepeta cataria is the common catnip; other Nepeta species have varying
amounts of "active ingredient".  A good one is Nepeta mussini, a
miniature-leaved catnip that makes a good rockgarden plant.  Nepeta is
a genus of the Lamiaceae (=Labiatae), the mint family.  There are
about 250 species of catnip, plus a bunch of hybrids between species.
Only about 10 are available in this country, though.

You can order from Burpee (215-674-9633)
 Nepeta cataria  B61424  $1.25
 N. mussinii   B38828  $1.45

Valerian root is an herb with effects very similar to catnip and
generally makes cats a bit nuts.  It is however not as readily
available as catnip and perhaps a bit more potent than catnip.

Catnip and Valerian both act as sedatives on humans.

C.  Other Toys.

In general, cats perversely favor the cheap homemade toy over the
expensive supermarket toy.  Toys commonly mentioned foil or paper
balls, superballs, little plastic rings from milk jugs, ornaments on
christmas trees, pencils, paper bags, cardboard boxes, Q-tips, cat
dancers ... the list is nearly infinite.

A new "cat toy" seems to be the production of videotapes for your
furry feline.  Tapes of birds and mice complete with intriguing noises
have kept several reader's cats entranced.  If your cat seems to like
watching TV (some do), this might be fun for your cat.  Don't give it
access to your remote, though.

Take sensible precautions with toys that can injure the cat: avoid
toys small enough to be swallowed or choked on; avoid toys with loose
or potentially sharp parts; avoid toys that can strangulate the cat or
shred the intestines if swallowed (including string and rubber bands).
Put strings away when you are not at home.

D.  Playing.

Most cats will love playing with you.  There is the usual string or
ball chasing; a few will even retrieve thrown items.  "Hide and seek"
and "Peekaboo" are also popular.  Cats commonly display interest by
dilating their pupils; look for this to see what catches its
attention.

Cats will often display behavior commonly called "elevenses," since it
seems to occur most often around 11PM.  This consists of the cat's
eyes dilating, its tail poofing out, and alternating between hopping
sideways and racing all over the house.  Your cat wants to play.  Take
it up on the challenge.  Chase after it, play hide and seek.  This can
also be useful; playing with a cat just before bedtime reduces the
chances of your cat wanting to play with you at 3AM.


VII.  CHANGING ENVIRONMENTS

A.  A New Baby.

Cats can become jealous upon the arrival of a new baby.  Reassure the
cat that you still love it by paying it plenty of attention.  In the
exhaustion and turmoil of a new baby, the cat is often neglected, and
this will add to its resentment.  

There is a myth that cats will kill babies.  The superstition is that
they'll "steal" the baby's breath; the latter day explanation is that
they will lie on babies and suffocate them.  While cats may like the
baby's warmth and may curl up next to it, it will not often lie on the
baby and in any case will move when the baby begins to flail its arms
and legs.

Most cats are trustworthy around babies after getting over any
jealousy, especially if it is trained not to use people as toys;
however babies should *never* be left unsupervised around *any*
animal.

B.  Travel.

1.  Cars 

Cats generally don't like travelling in cars.  For short trips, put
them in carriers to prevent accidents such as getting in the driver's
way, or escaping when the door is opened.  For long trips (all day or
more), use cat carriers, minimize food intake beforehand, and give
water every time you stop.  Consider getting harnesses and leashes for
when you stop.  Most motels allow cats.  Sometimes you can use
temporary fencing to block off the back of your car to give them a
roomier "cage"; you can usually then put litterboxes down instead of
keeping them for pit stops.  Tranquilizers can be obtained from the
vet, but not all cats react well to them, and they may make a trip
worse than it would have been otherwise (test the cat's reaction to
them beforehand).  Many cats will sack out after a few hours on the
road.

|For long-distance trips, make sure the motels take cats beforehand.
|Some do not, and are very nasty about it if you try to beg a room.
|AAA lists motels that accept pets.

|You might want to carry along water from your home, especially if you
|are traveling between states.  Ice cubes in the water dish allow your
|cats to have water without it spilling while you're driving (and helps
|if its hot, too).

|If you're traveling in the summer, make sure the cats get lots of air
|or air conditioning in the car. carry an umbrella or other
|shade-making device in case you have a breakdown.  Keep alert to where
|the sun is shining in your car (i.e., is it beating down on the back
|seat where the cats are?)

2.  Trains

Trains vary widely whether or not animals are allowed on passenger
cars.  Amtrack does not.  British Rail permits cats in a basket or
cage placed on the floor, seat or luggage rack.  The Swedish railway
company allows pets in the smoking section of the car, although
pet/non-smoker compartments have been recently introduced.

3.  Planes

All major airlines allow cats that fit with carrier underseat
according to the same dimension limits as for underseat baggage.  Most
airlines will tell you the cat has to be able to stand up in that
carrier but won't enforce this.  The pet area is not cargo, it's
pressurized but possibly not heated or cooled.  Get nonstop flights
since the airplane has little climate control for pets or passengers
while on the ground.  Airlines aren't permitted to take more than one
cat per carrier except for kittens.  You must call ahead, usually only
one carrier is allowed in the cabin, the rest must go into the pet
area.

Tips:
    
  * Try not to travel when temperatures are outside the 40-80 degrees
    F range at either end of the flight or at any stops in between.
  * Try to travel at off-peak times to minimize delays.
  * Use a sturdy kennel with proper ventilation and room for your
    cat to stand, turn around, and lie down.
  * Try not to tranquilize your cat unless absolutely necessary.

Some airlines are better than others.  Delta and United have failed
to follow standard procedures to protect animals in inclement weather
and as a result many animals have died on their flights.  They are
being fined $300,000 for this negligence by the U.S. Dept. of
Agriculture.  American, Continental, Pan Am, and TWA have also been
fined.  The ASPCA has brought charges in about 50 cases in the past
five years.  Much of this information can be found in _Conde Nast
Traveler_ magazine, June 1992 in "Pets on Planes: Too Often it's a
Rough Ride."

C.  International Travel.

A partial list: most states require a health certificate and proof of
rabies vaccination for pets crossing state lines.  Most airlines will
require this regardless.  Hawaii and Britain have a 6 month quarantine
for all pets entering either island (the chunnel may change Britain's
policy in a few years).  Canada has a 4 month quarantine [I think?],
except from the US, where rabies vaccination documentation is
sufficient.  Scandinavian countries have a three month quarantine,
with exceptions for animals from rabies-free countries such as Britain
and Australia.

Australia accepts animals only from rabies-free places and even these
animals have a four month quarantine.  Some sources have cited
different lengths of time from different acceptable countries, eg, six
months if from Britain, but this is unverified.  There is unrestricted
travel between Australia and New Zealand if the animals have been in
New Zealand for at least six months.  It is unclear what New Zealand's
policy is.

US to Australia: The key to bringing cats into Australia is that you
cannot bring cats from mainland US *directly*. You must go through an
intermediate stop, London or Hawaii.  Hawaii is more popular, it has a
shorter quarantine and makes a warm vacation spot.  In Hawaii, the cat
must be in official quarantine for 4 months, followed by another 30
days in a commercial kennel/cattery. The cat can then be brought into
Australia, but faces another 4 months of quarantine here. So the total
takes 9 months (and a fair investment).

D.  Moving.

Again, there are a variety of responses to a change in home location.
Some cats do well, others are a nervous wreck for several weeks.

By keeping your cat at someone else's home during the actual move-out,
you will keep it out of the way, prevent accidental escape or injury,
and spare the cat the trauma of seeing its world picked up and carried
out.  Once at the new place, keeping it for a day or so in one room of
the new place before allowing it out to explore will alleviate its
anxiety.  In any case, be prepared for up to several weeks of
"slinking" and hiding until becoming accustomed to the new place.

If you have an indoor/outdoor cat, you will want to keep it indoors
for about a month before you let it out.  Cats have a homing instinct
that takes about a month to "reset".  If you let it out before this
time, the cat may become disoriented and get lost, or make a beeline
for the old home.

E.  Vacations.

When you go on vacation or otherwise will be absent for some period of
time, you must make provisions for your cat.

1.  Leave at home

In most cases, you will be able to leave your cat alone for three to
four days with no supervision provided that it has an adequate supply
of food and water.  If your cat does not free-feed, this may not be at
all possible.

2.  Pet sitters

Find a friend (or a company that provides this service) who will drop
by your house at least once a day to feed it, water it, and generally
check up and play with it.  This is the least traumatic method for the
cat since it will stay in familiar territory and has the added bonus
of your house looking occupied.  Check to make sure that the
professional service you use is bonded, and interview the person
beforehand.  Check references that they supply.

|You can call the local humane society, animal rights groups or vets to
|find a recommended sitter.  These groups can often recommend good
|sitters, and just as important, warn you off particular companies that
|have had complaints.

3.  Kennels

Experiences have ranged from good to satisfactory to terrible with
kenneling cats.  It will depend a good deal on your cat's personality
and the kennel.  Look for a kennel that is clean and is attentive to
its boarders.  Look for personnel that like playing and otherwise
caring for animals.  Be wary of kennels that are not clean and
cheerful.  Some have reported that their animals came home with
diseases; check the kennel's policy regarding these matters.  Some may
involuntarily dip their clients; check for this also.  Check for
noise, too.

4.  Take Cat With You

See Travel.

5.  Leave with Someone Else 

Find someone willing to take your cat in while you are gone.  Your cat
will have to stay somewhere new for a while, but this can be
convenient, and especially if it always stays with that person while
you're gone, its adjustment can be quick.


VIII.  OTHER TOPICS

A.  Removing Urine Odor.

For fresh urine: clean the spot with any good carpet shampoo (Spot
Shot is one).  Then soak it with plain old club soda, leave it for
about ten minutes and blot it up.

Products that remove odors: Nature's Miracle (carpet, has 800 number);
Simple Solution (carpet and other items); Resolve (carpet, perhaps
other items)

If the urine has soaked the pad and the floor below that, it will be
difficult to remove the odor regardless of what you use.

On launderable items: put in the washing machine with a cup of vinegar
and no detergent, then wash again as usual.

B.  Cat Owner Allergies.

In general, keep the cats out of the bedroom.  If cats can be trained
to keep off the furniture, that also helps.  Substances like Allerpet
C can be used on cat's fur to dissolve some of the dander and protein
from the saliva that people are allergic to.  Long haired cats have
more area to deposit their saliva on and they have to be brushed
(putting more dander in the air), so short haired cats are better for
people with allergies.  Clean and vacuum often; groom and brush the
cat (outside if possible) often so its hair-shedding around the house
is minimized; and bathe the cat regularly.

1. Kinds of allergies

Some people are simply allergic to new cats.  This kind of allergy
means that it will diminish with repeated exposure.  Thus you will not
be allergic to cats that you are exposed to regularly; and actually
become allergic to your own cat if you're away from it for some time.
Washing hands frequently helps with this type of allergy.

Other people are allergic to the saliva on the cat's fur.  A remedy
for this is to bathe the cat once a month.  No soap is needed, merely
soak the cat thoroughly.  Done on a monthly basis, it seems to keep
the saliva levels down to a tolerable level.  This was reported in a
scientific journal somewhere; Cat Fancy covered it a few years ago.
[exact reference?]

You may be allergic to cat hair, in which case you may want to get one
of the breeds of cats with short, little, or no hair.  There is a
hairless cat, the Sphynx, and there are breeds of cat which are
entirely lacking in the kind of hair (cats have four kinds of hair)
most people are allergic to.  These are the Cornish Rex or Devon Rex
breeds, and their fur is short and curly.

You could go to an allergy specialist and get shots to help you with
specific allergies.  This can be expensive, but worth it, especially
if you have other allergies as well.  They'll test you for the things
you're allergic to, and then give you periodic shots to help you
develop an appropriate immunity to them.

There is an informative article "When Humans Have Allergies: Ways to
|Tolerate Cat Allergies," in _Cats Magazine_, April 1992.  The August
|1992 issue of _Cat Fancy_ contains an informative article; the
|September 1992 issue will have a survey of people's experiences with
|allergies (what works for them).

C.  Cats and Water.

There are breeds of cats with an affinity for water.  There have been
reports from rec.pets.cats readers about cats getting into showers
with them; other anecdotes have been very entertaining to read.  

Most cats, whether or not they like to get wet, will be fascinated
with watching water drip out of faucets or drain out of tubs, sinks,
and toilets.

Reports of cats drinking from the bottom of the shower, from the sink
and other unlikely places are common.  Some cats can be fussy
about water; they seem to like it as fresh as possible, preferably
still moving.  You may be able to stop some of this behavior by
changing the cat's water every day and moving it some distance away
from the food dish.  In general this habit will not hurt your cat,
however unpleasant it may look to you.  Toilet water drinking *should*
be discouraged, but this is easily done by leaving the lid down.

D.  Indoor and Outdoor Cats

1.  Pros and cons

There are a good many arguments for keeping them inside.  They will
live longer since the chances of being hit by a car, hurt by other
people or animals, or infected with contagious diseases from feral
cats will be minimized.  On the other hand, cats derive much pleasure
from exploring around outside.

2.  Compromises

Often, a satisfactory compromise is to allow the cat out under
supervision.  This can be done by either letting them out into a
fenced yard (although if you leave them out there, they will probably
eventually climb the fence), or using a harness and leash.  To use the
latter, accustom them to the harness first, in the same way as a
collar.  Then accustom them to the leash by leaving it on for short
periods of time.  Then take them outside, and follow them where they
go (do not try to take them "on a walk").

2.  Pet doors

Pet doors are a good solution for people tired of letting cats in and
out.  There are many kinds of doors, including those that fit into
patio doors without requiring a hole cut through the wall or door.

You may have trouble with other animals coming in the door, or want to
let your dog but not your cat use the pet door.  The solution is an
electronic pet door. The door has a lock that is deactivated by a
magnet that selected pets wear on their collar. Look under Pet
Supplies in the yellow pages. If you can't get one locally, call
"America's Pet Door Store" toll free at 1-800-826-2871 for a catalog.

Electronic pet doors are installed much like a regular pet door, but
you plug them in.  The door itself needs a firmer push to open than
most.  A great feature is the 4-way lock. The lock can be set so the
cat can 1) go both in and out 2) go in only - great if you want to
catch them 3) out only 4) totally locked.  Doors cost about
US$80-US$90.

E.  Catching Feral Cats.

On occasion, you may want to catch feral cats.  They can be very
difficult to catch.  When it seems to be impossible, call your local
humane society or SPCA to see if you can borrow a humane animal trap.
Some places allow you to "check out" such traps, just like books from
the library.  A little food for bait, and you've got 'em.

F.  Finding A Home for a Cat.

For whatever reason, you may need to find a home for a cat.  List
everywhere: newspaper, bulletin boards, computer bulletin boards,
newsletters, anywhere you like.  But limit sharply: don't adopt out if
they don't meet standards.  Minimal standards: will neuter as soon as
the cat's old enough, committed to a 20 year responsibility, they have
a home or apartment that permits pets, knowledgeable about cat health
and behavior or committed to become so.  Do charge a nominal fee, at
least US$10, unless you know the adopter well; this keeps away those
collecting animals for research.  (You can donate all or part of the
money to animal causes if you like.)

G.  Dealing with Landlords.

A number of landlords initially say "no pets" but change their minds
when assured that the cat was well-behaved and assured of an extra
damage deposit if necessary.

Also, it seems like many landlords are more likely to approve of a cat
if you make it a condition of signing the lease, rather than if you
ask if it's OK to get one after you've already moved in, or if you try
to sneak one in without asking.

Try to prove that you are a responsible owner (photos of last house,
references, vet records, etc.) to help win your case.

For more ideas and tips, look up
	Dog Fancy, Volume 22, No. 8, August 1991, "Breaking Barriers:
	   How to find an apartment that allows dogs," by Amanda Wray.

H.  Pet Insurance.

In the August issue of Cat Fancy, there is an article discussing
health maintenance plans for cats that is set up between your vet
and yourself and then administrated by this HMO company.  The 
company is called RLI Planned Services in Peoria, Illinois.
 
The article included a sample plan.  For $75 a year, your cat 
receives:
 
BASIC HEALTH CARE:
	1 physical exam, no charge
	1 FVRCPC booster, no charge
	1 Rabies booster, no charge
	1 FeLV test, no charge
	50% off FeLV series
	Fecal analysis, ear flush, worming, no charge
	1 Pedicure, no charge

MAJOR ELECTIVE PROCEDURES:
	Spay or Neuter, 40% off
	Declawing, 20% off
	Dental Prophylaxis, 50% off
	  (anesthesia included)
	
HEALTH SURVEY:
	Radiographs, 20% off
	EKG, 20% off
	Chemistry screen profile, 20% off
	Complete blood count, 20% off

All other medical, surgical and hospital services (except
prescriptions and diets) are 10% off.

(All of these things are included in this HMO for $75/year.
OR $125 for two years.)

Here's the company's address:
	RLI Planned Services Inc.
	Dept. CF
	9025 N. Lindbergh Drive
	Peoria, IL  61615
   
The article says to ask your vet about this program.  If he/she
isn't familiar with it, they should contact the company and see
about setting up the HMO plan.

Vets also may be able to direct you to other pet insurance plans that
they know about.  You may want to consider that $100/year over an
expected 15 to 20 year lifetime is $1500 to $2000.  Plus whatever you
have to pay for excluded costs, coverage limits, deductibles.  Pet
insurance will help with major medical problems such as FUS, cancer,
etc, or emergency care.  If your pet is basically healthy, you will
pay about as much either way, for insurance or for preventative care
that keeps it healthy.


I.  Cat Genetics and Coloring.

A cat with patches of red and black is a tortoiseshell, or 'tortie'.
Add white, and you get a calico.  A tortoiseshell that is homozygous
for the recessive 'dilution' gene is referred to as a blue-cream, and
that's what color it is: patches of soft grey and cream.  This is the
same gene that turns black cats 'blue' (grey), and red cats cream.  A
blue-cream and white is generally referred to in the cat world as a
dilute calico.  The pattern of black/red or blue/cream can either be
in big dramatic patches, brindling, or some of both.  Having more
white seems to encourage the formation of the big patches.

Red in cats is a sex-linked color, carried on the X gene.  Therefore,
a male cat whose X carries red will be a red tabby.  A female cat who
carries one red and one non-red X will be a patched tabby, a
tortoiseshell, or a calico (if she also has the dominant gene for
white markings).  A female cat who is homozygous for red (has it on
both X genes) will be a red tabby.  This is why you see more male red
tabbies than females.  This is ALSO why male calicos are so rare: you
have to have two X genes to be a calico.  Male calicos have genetic
aberrations of various sorts, of which XXY is most common.  While they
are most commonly sterile, there *are* documented cases of fertile
male calicos.  However, the generalization that "all calicos/torties
are female" is true 99.999 percent of the time.

The reason red females are "uncommon" is that, statistically, the
number of red males is equal to the number of tortoiseshell/calico,
patched tabby, AND red females.  Red males and tortie/calico/patched
tabby females can be produced when only ONE parent has the red gene,
but to produce a red female, you must cross a red male with a
red/tortie/calico/patched tabby female.  THAT is why red females are
uncommon.  But not "impossible", in the sense that a male calico is
"impossible".

A "solid red" cat will always display the tabby pattern (although it
may be very slight or even undetectable without brushing the fur back
to check).  There's another gene at work which controls "agoutiness"
(whether individual hairs are banded or solid).  Cats who are
non-agouti will not generally display the tabby pattern, except in red
areas.  The non-agouti gene does not affect phaeomelanin, the red
pigment, so red cats always show their tabby pattern.

The red gene "overrides" the solid gene, making the tabby pattern
visible again.  (And on other solid colors, you can sometimes notice
the underlying stripes, especially in strong light.)  Solid red cats
at cat shows MAY or MAY NOT be genetically solid--they are (generally
longhairs) bred for the "blurring" of the tabby pattern, producing a
cat that doesn't have dramatic markings.

Solid		Tabby
-----		-----
black		brown tabby
blue		blue tabby
red		red tabby
cream		cream tabby
chocolate	chocolate tabby
cinnamon	cinnamon tabby
fawn		fawn tabby

The colors a calico will produce depend on the color of the sire.  But
at minimum, she can produce red and non-red sons, and patched
tabby/tortoiseshell/calico daughters, as well as non-red daughters.
Whether she will produce tabbies or not depends on the genetic makeup
of the sire.  And *any* of the kittens could have white markings, or
not.

Basic cat colors:

Color			Dilute form
-----			-----------
black			blue (a grey color)
chocolate		lilac (a pale pinkish-grey)
(chocolate is a recessive gene which changes black to brown)
cinnamon		fawn (a very pale pinkish-tan)
(a light reddish brown, found mostly in Siamese and Abyssinians)

red			cream (ranges from yellowish to tannish or buff)
(red and cream are sex-linked, on the X gene, and mask the previous
colors.  Actually, there's a separate shade of red/cream to match each
of the previous colors, but it's hard to tell them apart, unless you're
dealing with a tortoiseshell or patched tabby, which has the non-red
areas to give you a hint.)

white
(Here we refer to the dominant form, which is masking over the previous
colors.  It has no dilution.)

Everything else is a modifier!

Modifier			Dominant/Recessive
--------			------------------
white spotting (paws, etc)	dominant
polydactyly (extra toes)	dominant
manx (taillessness)		dominant
silver (inhibits hair color at roots)	dominant
white locketing (small spots on chest and/or groin) recessive
dilution (black->blue)		recessive
chocolate dilution		recessive
cinnamon dilution		recessive
bobtail (partial taillessness)	recessive
solid (no tabby markings)	recessive
long hair			recessive

Some genes are incompletely dominant to each other, and are part of a
series.  For example, the siamese/burmese genes, from most to least
colored:

Burmese/Siamese/blue-eyed white/pink-eyed white (albino)

The coloring of the Burmese and the points of the Siamese is
temperature sensitive.  The cooler extremities of the Siamese are
darker; a Burmese that has had a fever may grow in lighter fur for a
while!  Such changes are usually temporary, but may take some time to
grow out.

All cats (even those homozygous for solid) have a tabby pattern.  There
are different tabby patterns, from most to least dominant:

Mackerel/Classic/Ticked.  The spotted tabby pattern is thought to be a
variant of the Mackerel pattern, not genetically distinct, but the
jury is not yet in.

Smokes and Chinchillas.  This is the combination of the expression of
the silver gene (a dominant), and the gene for solid color (a
recessive).  Other modifiers account for whether the cat is a referred
to as a smoke, a shaded, or a chinchilla.  From most to least colored:
a "smoke" has white roots, a "shaded" has about half and half white
and color along the length of the hair, and a "chinchilla" has color
only on the very tips of the hair.  If the cat is a tabby instead of a
solid color, that is a silver tabby.  And if the base color is not
black, that would be added to the name as well: blue-cream smoke, red
silver tabby, etc.


J.  Bathing a Cat.

You should not ordinarily need to bath a cat.  Cats are normally very
good about cleaning themselves, and for most cats, that's all the
bathing they will ever need.  Reasons for giving them a bath are:

  - The cat has got something poisonous on its fur,
  - It doesn't take care of its coat as normal cats do,
  - You are allergic and need to bathe it to keep allergens down,
  - The cat is a show cat and about to be shown,
  - You are giving it a flea, tick, or lice dip,
  - It is unusually dirty for some reason (perhaps bad weather).

If you just trimmed your cat's claws, now is a good time.  Having
someone help you hold the cat definitely helps.

Get everything ready.  Warm water, selected bathing place (you might
consider the kitchen sink as being easier on your back and
facilitating control of the cat).  Put a towel or rubber mat on the
bottom of the tub or sink to give your cat something to sink its claws
into.  If you have spray attachments, either to the sink or the tub,
those will help you soak the cat efficiently.  You want to use soap
formulated for cat skin, as human-type soaps will remove all the
essential oils and leave the cat's skin dried out and susceptible to
flea infestations or skin breakouts.  There are some soaps formulated
for allergic pet owners.  Use sparingly and rinse well after working
through coat.

To dry the cat, towel dry first.  You can try hair dryers on low
settings depending on your cat's tolerance.  Otherwise, keep them
inside until they are fully dry.  If your cat is longhaird, you will
want to groom it as the coat drys.  Give the cat a treat after the
bath, this may help them tolerate the process.

If the problem is greasy skin, you may wish to try a dry cat shampoo
instead.

  
K.  Cat Safety in the House.

Besides some of the more obvious things like electrical cords, here
are some other things to watch out for:

  * Recliner chairs.  Many cats will go underneath these chairs as a
    hiding or resting place.  Cats that are caught in the mechanism
    when the chair is opened or closed can be seriously injured or
    killed. 

  * The dryer.  Many cats find the small enclosed space with warm
    clothing especially inviting.  Check your dryer before turning it
    on; your cat can be killed this way.  A little aversion therapy:
    if you see your cat slip in, close the door and bang on the top of
    the dryer for a few seconds.  Let the cat back out.

  * Drapery and blind cords.  Most cats love to play with the cords;
    unfortunately it is easy for cats to be entangled and
    strangulated.  Coil the cords up to the top of the window and pin
    it there with a clothes pin or clip.

  * Bags with handles.  Cats can become stuck in the handles and
    panic.  If this happens when you are not at home, the cat may
    injure or kill itself.  Keep such bags out of reach of the cats,
    or cut their handles off.


L.  Pet Identification
    
Every cat should wear ID tags. A "strangleproof" or "breakaway" cat
collar with elastic section is safest; tags attached with small
keyrings won't fall off and get lost.

Commonest way to get the tag: mail order services that advertise at
pet shops and vet waiting rooms.  Prices go from $3 to $8 per tag.
The cat's name is the least important thing on the tag.  The most
important is your name and phone number.  Home address and work number
are desirable.  Some areas offer cat licensing; consider it as another
way of getting a tag.  Another alternative is to write the name and
phone number on a flea collar or on a cloth collar.  Don't forget to
update the information on the tag when you move!  Tabby Tags offer a
way to attach information to the cat's collar without dangling tags.
Inquire at Tabby Tags, 4546 El Camino Real, B-10, Suite 340, Los
Altos, CA 94022

ID's should be worn for the following reasons:
  * In case the cat, even an indoors one, gets lost or strays.
  * If your cat is injured outside and a kind stranger takes it to the
    vet, the vet is more likely to treat the cat if it has tags.
  * People won't think your cat is a stray and take it home and keep it.
  * Let your neighbors know whose cat is whose, and what their names are.

You can get your cat tattooed in the ear or the leg and register the
tattoo number with a national registry.  The basic problem with this
approach is that few people will look for a tattoo and know where to
call.  Vets, though, usually know about this.  Microchips are being
increasingly used, but you need a scanner to be able to read this
(although vets and animal shelters will check for these).

M.  Do All Cats Purr?

Most domestic cats purr.  But do the big ones?  Most people say not,
but from _The Big Cat_:

  "Assertions have been widely made that the roaring cats above are
  not able to purr, assertions that have now been disproven.  George
  B. Schaller reports purring in the lion, tiger, and leopard, as well
  as in the cheetah, but remarks that in the lion the sound is
  produced only during exhalation and appears to be a much less common
  vocalization than in the domestic cat [160].  Snow leopards purr,
  like the house cat, during both exhalation and inhalation [60].
  Others have reported that tame, young adult tigers, leopards,
  jaguars, and cheetahs purr in response to petting.  Finally, purring
  has even been reported in five species of viverrids, as well as
  suckling black bear cubs and nursing spotted hyenas [36]. These
  observations are interesting when compared with Gustave Peters'
  comment that there is still some question about the occurrence of
  purring, in a strictly defined sense, in the wild cats [178].  He
  questions whether the noise identified as a purr from the big cats
  is pthe same in detail and manner of production as the purr of a
  domestic cat.  Of the seven large cats he studied (he did not
  consider the cheetah), he observed true purring only in the puma,
  but considered it probable that snow leopards and clouoded leopards
  also purr.  Thus there is still some doubt about the distribution of
  the ability to purr among the wild cats."

  [36] Ewer, R. F. 1973. THE CARNIVORES.  Ithaca, NY: Cornell
       University Press.

  [60] Hemmer, H. 1972. UNCIA UNCIA.  MAMMALIAN SPECIES No. 20, 5 pp.

  [160] Schaller, G. B. 1972.  THE SERENGETI LION.  Chicago:
	University of Chicago Press.

  [178] Stuart-Fox, D. T. 1979.  MACAN: THE BALINESE TIGER. _Bali_Post_
	(English edition) July 23, 1979, pp. 12-13.


IX.  REFERENCES

A. Electronic Mailing Lists.

There is a electronic mailing lists for vets, vet students and people
otherwise involved with the veterinary profession.  Send email
inquiries to jeffp@ocelot.csc.wsu.edu for details.

There is a feline-l mailing list, details uncertain.

B. Literary.

1. Jellicle Cats

This poem is often requested, sometimes indirectly when people ask
"what is a jellicle cat?"  This is a portion of T.S.  Eliot's poem for
your edification.  The entire poem is not quoted due to copyright
laws and space considerations.

THE SONG OF THE JELLICLES
...
Jellicle Cats are black and white,
Jellicle Cats are rather small;
Jellicle Cats are merry and bright,
And pleasant to hear when they caterwaul.
Jellicle Cats have cheerful faces,
Jellicle Cats have bright black eyes;
They like to practise their airs and graces
And wait for the Jellicle Moon to rise.
...
                      ---T. S. Eliot
                         "Old Possum's Book of Practical Cats"

2.  The "mousies" Poem

Another oft-requested poem.

Love to eat them mousies
Mousie's what I love to eat.
Bite they little heads off...
Nibble on they tiny feet.   -- B. Kliban

C.  Books.

Camuti, Dr. Louis J.  _All My Patients are Under the Bed_, with
Marilyn and Haskel Frankel; Simon and Schuster, NY ISBN 0-671-55450-6.
  Entertaining descriptions of a house-call cat veterinarian's
  experiences.

Carlson, Delbert G. DVM and James M. Giffin, MD: _Cat Owner's Home
Veterinary Handbook_. Howell Book House, NY ISBN 0-87605-814-4.
  Emergencies, diseases, biology, medications, symptoms.  An excellent
  home-vet reference for the concerned cat-owner.

Edney, A.T.B, ed. _The Waltham Book of Dog and Cat Nutrition_. Second
edition.  Pergamon Press, 1988. ISBN: 0-08-035729-6 (flexicover).

Fogle, Bruce. _The Cat's Mind_. Pelham Books, 1991. ISBN 0-7207-1996-8.

Fox, Michael W. _Supercat: Raising the Perfect Feline Companion_.
  Topics include cat communication, decoding cat behavior, training
  your cat, IQ tests.

Frazier, Anitra with Norma Ecktroate. _The New Natural Cat: A
Complete Guide for Finicky Owners_.  1990.  
  Overview of the cat and its habits, strong holistic approach, good
  recipies.

Holland, Barbara. _Secrets of the Cat_.  
  Sensible, sensitive and entertaining.

Kliban, B:  _Cat_.  Workman Publishing Co., NY, 1975.  ISBN 0-911104-54-2.
  Kliban had an exceptional understanding of cats, and this cartoon
  book is well worth acquiring.

Loeb, Paul and Josephine Banks: _You CAN Train Your Cat_. 
  A valuable compendium of information on how to train your cat.

Mu:ller, Ulrike. _The New Cat Handbook_, translated from the German
_Das Neue Katzenbuch_ by Rita and Robert Kineber; Barron's Educational
Series, Inc., NY ISBN 0-8120-2922-4.
  Sections on: choosing a cat; care & feeding; health; breeding; 
  showing; cat "language" & behavior.

|Neff, Nancy A., forward by Roger Caras, paintings by Guy Coheleach.
|_The Big Cats_.  Harry N. Abrams, Inc., New York, 1982.  ISBN: 0-8109-0710-0.
|  This is a wonderful book, although it may no longer be in print, and
|  is probably expensive if it is.  It's a collection of the most
|  beautiful artwork I've ever seen of the big cats, accompanied by
|  some of the more scholarly, and WELL-REFERENCED text I've come
|  across.  It's actually a bit of a shock to see such scholarly text
|  with such incredible art...I expected the usual, "Oh, aren't they
|  wonderful," dreck, so this was a real surprise.  Both the text and
|  the paintings are reproduced on 40 or 50 pound glossy stock, so each
|  page is heavier than the cover of most paperbacks.

Neville, Peter.  _Do Cats Need Shrinks?_.  Contemporary Books. 1991.
ISBN 0-8092-3935-3.  
  He is a British pet psychologist to whom vets refer their problem
  cases.  (American readers should check the glossary at the back of
  the book, to help translate terms like "moggy".)  He gives very good
  explanations of why cats do things, and how to work within their way
  of thinking to convince them to do otherwise.

Robinson, F. _Cat Genetics for Breeders_.
  For people seriously interested in how genetics work in cats.

Siegal, Mordecai, ed. _The Cornell Book of Cats_ (by the faculty and
staff of Cornell Feline Health Center, Cornell University; Villard
Books, New York, 1989). 
  This is an excellent reference book for the owner who wants detailed
  medical information. It is more sophisticated than popular/consumer
  type books; it is more like a veterinary textbook, but you don't
  have to be a vet to understand the material.

Siegal, Mordecai, ed. _Simon & Schuster's Guide to Cats_.  Originally
in Spanish, Arnoldo Mondadori.  Fireside Book, Simon & Schuster.
1983, ISBN: 0-671-49170-9.

Stephens, Gloria. _Legacy of the Cat_ (photography by Tetsu Yamazaki,
San Francisco: Chronicle Books, 1989, ISBN 0-87701-728-X/0-87701-695
pbk).
  Dense cat genetics information w/pictures.  37 breeds then described.
  
Taylor, David. _You and Your Cat_.
  Lots of useful information.  A (slightly incomplete) breed 
  summary complete with color pictures.  A trouble-shooting guide 
  for sick cats.

Tellington-Jones, Linda, with Sybil Taylor.  _The Tellington Touch:
A Breakthrough Technique to Train and Care for Your Favorite Animal_.
Viking Penguin.  1992.  ISBN 0-670-82578-6.
  Some of what Linda does is clearly helpful in dealing with problem
  dogs and cats, but there are parts of her presentation of her ideas
  that may turn people off because they seem to be a little too
  far out of the mainstream.  Good massage tips.

Thies, Dagmar. _Cat Care_.  TFH Publications, 1989.  ISBN 0-86622-776-8.

Turner, Dennis C. and Paterick Bateson, eds: _The Domestic Cat: The
Biology of its Behaviour_.  Cambridge (UK) University Press, 1988.

Wright, Michael and Sally Walters, eds. _The Book of the Cat_ (New
York: Summit Books (Pan Books, London), 1980, ISBN
0-671-44753-X/0-671-41624-3 pbk).  
  Includes a good discussion of genetics and cat breeds.  Lots of
  detail, but very accessible, a good way to get started once you're
  past the first stage of learning about cats.

White and Evans. _The Catopedia_. Henson 1986(?).

D.  Articles.

Barlough, JE and CA Stoddart.  Feline Coronaviruses: Interpretation of Lab-
   oratory findings and Serologic Tests.  pp. 557-561  _in_  August,
   J.R. (ed)  1991.  Consultations in Feline Internal Medicine.  WB Saunders
   Co., Philadelphia.  ISBN 0-7216-2226-7

Booth, Dawn M.  Antiviral Therapy.  pp. 577-582  _in_  August, J.R.
   (ed)  1991.  Consultations in Feline Internal Medicine.  WB Saunders
   Co., Philadelphia.  ISBN 0-7216-2226-7
 
Lewis, Ricki.  1988.  "The cat's meow (taurine deficiency causes eye
and heart problems)."  _Health_ (Ny, NY) 20:18, March 1988.  
  Probably more popular citation on taurine in cats diets.

Pedersen, N.C.  Common Infectious Diseases of Multiple-Cat Environments
    pp. 163-288 _in_ Pedersen, Niels C.(ed) 1991.  Feline Husbandry: Diseases
    and manangement of the multiple cat environment.  American Veterinary
    Publications, Inc.  Goleta, CA.  ISBN 0-939674-29-7
  
Pion, PD; MD Kittleson and QR Rogers.  1987.  "Myocardial Failure in
cats associated with low plasma taurine: a reversible cardiomyopathy."
_Science_ 237:764-768.  14 Aug 1987.  
  Note: This one is rather technical.

Povey, R. Charles.  1985.  Infectious diseases of Cats: A clinical handbook.
   Centaur Press, Guelph, Ontario    C85-098602-8

Stoddart, Cheryl A. and Jeffrey E. Barlough.  Feline Coronaviruses: Spectrum
   of Virus Strains and Clinical Manifestations.  pp. 551-556 _in_  August,
   J.R. (ed)  1991.  Consultations in Feline Internal Medicine.  WB Saunders
   Co., Philadelphia.  ISBN 0-7216-2226-7

Weiss,  Richard C.  Feline Infectious Peritonitis and other Coronaviruses.
   pp. 333-356  _in_ Sherding, Robert G. 1989.  The Cat: Diseases and
   Clinical Management.  Churchill-Livingstone, New York.  ISBN 0-443-
   08461-0

|E.  Catalogues.

|"Cats, Cats, and More Cats", 2 Greycourt Ave, PO Box 560, Chester, NY,
|10918.  (914)4-PURR.  Fast shipping, donates percentage to animal causes.


----------------
This file is Copyright (c) 1992 by Cindy Tittle Moore.  It may be
freely distributed in its entirety provided that this copyright notice
is not removed.  It may not be sold for profit nor incorporated in
commercial documents without the author's written permission.

Cindy Tittle Moore
Internet: tittle@ics.uci.edu  UUCP: ...!ucbvax!ucivax!tittle
Bitnet  : cltittle@uci        USmail: PO BOX 4188, Irvine CA 92716
----------------