HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: asdch@acad2.alaska.edu
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Gas cars. I run a .25 Irvine powered Vanning
Date: 28 Aug 92 20:15:10 GMT
Organization: University of Alaska

In article <1992Aug24.115815.1366@hsr.no>, paal-sb@hsr.no (Paal Steinar Berg) writes:
> Anyone out there run 1/8 scale on-road gas cars...
> 
> I've go at serpent sprint with a rex engine.
> 
> PSB
> 
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: bs464@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Duncan R. McCoy)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: US Aircore Trainer, Any Good?
Date: 26 Aug 92 21:08:00 GMT
Reply-To: bs464@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Duncan R. McCoy)
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)


In a previous article, pfoss@cmsa.gmr.com (Pete Foss PO/46) says:

>>
>>Is the US AirCore Trainer a good plane to begin RC with
>>(I will be getting an instructor to help me this time around :-)  )
>>
>>What engine would be recommended for this?
>>
>>Any strong suggestions about a decent beginer/intermediate radio setup?
>>
>>Thanks in advance for the help!
>>
>>Jeff
>
>I have flown a couple for students with good success.  Any 40 size engine will do. I like OS 40FP for students because they are very easy to break in and reliable.  As far as a radio goes, get a 4 or 6 channel FM, dual conversion receiver with buddy box c
>
>
I've also flown the Air Core Family Trainer a couple of times for new guys
needing trim. The planes are easy to fly, altho a little heavy. The OS
FP .40 will fly it fine. The airplane will take A LOT of abuse. This is
important if you're going to try this mostly without a skilled instructor
(not recommended). With a good instructor, though, I think you ought to
go with a built-up trainer: Goldberg Eagle II, Graet Planes PT-40, Midwest
Aero Star if kit, Royal 40T if ARF. The OS FP .40 will also work well with
any of these planes. With the kits, you will also get building experience
which will increase your sense of accomplishment when you fly. The key
ingredient is the instructor - find a good one at your local club or
flying field and you'll be flying safer, quicker and soloing sooner, 
while minimizing the risk of crashing your new plane.


-- 
Duncan R. McCoy
Boulder City, NV
bs464@cleveland.freenet.edu
---------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: What good sailplane kits are available?
Distribution: world
Organization: SAIC, Technology Research Group, San Diego, CA
From: jam@marge (John McNeil)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 17:17:36 GMT

Hi,

I have decided to build a thermal type sailplane, and am looking for some advice on a kit.  I fly slope now, so I am not too experienced with the thermal offerings.  What I think I want is a multitask type ship with flaps, ailerons, rudder and elevator.  I don't have a computer radio so I will have to either fore-go full-span camber changing or do mechanical mixing.  I want something that is capable of good speed, but can float and turn well in thermals.  I can't spend more than about $75 U.S. so I don't 







c
ount on getting a glass or kevlar fuselage, but I would like foam wings (obechi sheeted?).  A built in ballast box would be nice for taking it to the slope.

If you know of any kits/plans with these characteristics please reply.  I would really appreciate it if you could include the phone numbers and addresses of the kit makers if you know them.

Thanks in advance,

John
jam@trg.saic.com

P.S. Any TPG members out there, when are your meetings, and what thermal sites are there around San Diego?
-- 
John
jam@trg.saic.com
NeXTmail preferred
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: lawrence@bcars470.UUCP (Bob Lawrence)
Subject: Re: Submarines anyone?
Keywords: Submarine RC model	
Reply-To: andersn@bnr.ca
Organization: Bell Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 19:30:15 GMT

Hello RC netters. I am new to this group, and would like to first say
that I have enjoyed what I have read so far. You are friendly and helpful,
which follows my previous experience with RC'ers.  

I started with a swamp buggy (boat sort of), then gliders, powered glider,
powered planes, and recently off-road RC cars.  I find my interest now
turning towards the water again as I yearn for an RC submarine.  Most 
people I talk to seem pretty cool on the idea - they think that I am all 
wet.  But I find myself getting more and more interested.

Has anyone out there on the net got any thoughts, suggestions (snickers	
if need be) for me on the subject of submarines? Names of companies 
sub kits and/or components would be of great interest.  

I think it is the challenge of the thing (and the fact that I am now 
flying a computer, not the submarine I dreamed about 15 years ago).   

(Specific question: Are NiCad's the explosion hazard that I have heard
about when used in the air-tight compartment of a submarine with the
sparks of the electric motor?!!)
--
 Regards, and happy flying/driving/boating/submerging/etc    .---.
                                                             | B |
        Bob Lawrence    Senior MSS              _____________|___|___                
        Dept. 5S45 IC Development.,     |\___---                  __ \           
        Bell Northern Research Ltd.,   X|-___                         |              
	Ottawa, Canada                  |/   ----____________________/ 
	Internet: lawrence@bnr.ca                                        
 Phone: 613-763-2139  (internal 3-2139   ESN 393-2139 )                
   Fax: 613-763-2626  (internal 3-2626   ESN 393-2626 )
From: jrp@bohra.cpg.oz.au (John Pitman)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: 5cell rx packs
Date: 30 Aug 92 03:53:25 GMT
Organization: Computer Power Software

Hi there,
I had an early FUt pcm set (8SGA), and with 4.8V rx packs, the response was not
exactly crisp, to say the least. I put a 6v pack in and it was Good!. It turned
out that these early pcm rxs were higher current drain than usual, so 6v was 
recommended fix. I now have a 9VAP, and on 4.8v rx the response if fine, so
I am not going to bother with the 6v packs anymore ( I do use 700mah packs tho).As for getting the fail safe to work, one of our members makes a gizmo that goes
between the rx and any servo of your choice, and when the pack gets to 4.4V
(for a 4.8) it puts a 15-20degree waggle in the signal - throttle or rudder is
probably safest here. Obviously he can make it to go off at any voltage desired.
It is about 1/2 x 1/4 x 1" , weighs bugger all.
jp
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: pad@galaxy.nsc.com (Paul Denny x8349)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Submarines anyone?
Date: 3 Sep 92 23:06:17 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: National Semiconductor, Santa Clara

In article <1992Sep2.155751.12404@linus.mitre.org>, m14494@mwvm.mitre.org (Mike White) writes:
> Bob Lawrence writes:
> > ...I yearn for an RC submarine.
> 
> Several are available, advertised in all the rc mags.  The biggest one is 
> around 6 ft, and has working balast tanks.
> 
It may be worth finding out a bit about radio attenuation by water before you
embark on your first dive. I understand that to communicate with real submarines
requires a very low frequency carrier. The attenuation will increase with frequency
and water conductivity (salinity) due to the skin effect. The electromagnetic field 
will decay exponentially to a value of 1/e (2.718) of its value at the surface at 
the skin depth defined by ;

		d	=	(1/u.pi.f.s)
where u=permeability of water (I think this is pretty close to permeability of free space)
      f=frequency (about 72MHz) 
      s=conductivity of water (ranges from 2E-4 in distilled water to 5 in sea water)

This gives skin depths ranging from 17 metres to 1mm 
Unless you are at the brewster angle you will also get reflection at the air water 
interface as well.

You might want to get a decent pair of polaroid sunglasses too 8-)  
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: paal-sb@hsr.no (Paal Steinar Berg)
Subject: Re: 1/12 or 1/10 electric on-road cars
Organization: Rogaland University Centre
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 08:43:53 GMT

In article <92244.124441IO10046@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>, <IO10046@MAINE.MAINE.EDU> writes:

> 
>    WHEN YOU TALK OF ON-ROAD ELECTRIC CARS, I'M ASSUMING YOU ARE SPEAKING
> OF PAN CARS.  PAN CARS ARE NOT THE IDEAL RECREATIONAL RC CAR.  AN OFF-
> ROAD CAR MAY SUIT YOU BETTER.   THERE ARE FULL SUSPENSION ON ROADS CARS
> OUT THERE, BUT THEY ARE EXPENSIVE AND ARE NOT COMPETIVE WITH PAN CARS
> ON SMOOTH TRACKS BECAUSE OF THERE WEIGHT DIFFERENCE.

How much does the pan cars weigh? The Serpent Tenforce weighs 1200 grams if I
remenber right. And that is with an aluminium chassis. What is the minimum weight
for an 1/ 10 scale on-road car?


>    MAYBE YOUR BEST BET WOULD BE TO TAKE A LOOK AT SOMETHING ALONG THE
> LINES OF THE BOLINK SPORT TRUCK.  IT HAS A PAN TYPE CHASSIS  AND WAS
> DESIGN FOR RECREATIONAL USE.  DON'T TRY USING IT IN YOUR GRAVEL DOORYARD
> THOUGH!  IT WAS DESIGNED FOR USE ON SMOOTH PARKING LOTS AND THE SUCH.
> THE BOLINK TRUCK COULD POSSIBLY BE A COMPETIVE CAR AT AN ONROAD TRACK.
> I HAVE NEVER SEEN ANYONE USE ONE THOUGH.
>    I RACE 1/10TH SCALE ELECTRIC ONROAD.  I HAVE A C&M COBRA LTOOR.  I
> ALSO HAVE A COBRA SPORT FOR MY RECREATIONAL USE.  I USE IT IN PARKING
> LOTS AND TENNIS COURTS.  I PERSONALLY WOULD NEVER TRY USING THE SAME
> CAR FOR RECREATIONAL USE AND RACING.  BUT, IF THAT IS WHAT YOU WANT
> THEN MAYBE YOU SHOULD GIVE OFF ROAD CARS A LOOK AT.
> 
> -AARON BRASSLETT
>  UNIVERSITY OF MAINE

WHOW, WHY HAVE YOU GOT SO BIG LETTERS GRANDMA?

Paal 		(Gasheads unite)
From: bloom@inland.com
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Engine Storage
Date: 25 Aug 92 14:23:19 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Inland Steel Company; East Chicago, IN

In article <1992Aug24.171900.13684@cbnewsd.cb.att.com>, mju@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (michael.j.urban) writes:
> In article <1992Aug23.225109.26321@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU> mad9a@newton.acc.Virginia.EDU (Michael A. Davis) writes:
>>  I have several engines which need to be packed up and stored for the
>>school year.  Could someone please give me some tips on what to do to prepare
>>the engines for about an 8 month storage.  Thanks.
>>
>>Mike Davis
>>mad9a@newton.acc.virginia.edu
> 
> 
> 	This is really pretty easy.  Run a tankful of fuel with castor oil
> 	lubricant through each engine.  Wrap them up in a rag, and put 'em
> 	away.  There will be those who take issue with this, but it works.
> 	
> 	I was out of this hobby for 18 years, '67 - '85, and my old
> 	engines, mostly G.21/35's with ball bearings, were wrapped up this
> 	way after my last flying session in 1967.  At the time, I didn't
> 	expect it to be the last time for 18 years, so I didn't do
> 	anything special.  They sat in the old workshop in my folk's house
> 	in Houston while I went through college, the army, and started a
> 	family and a career.  They were in the worst possible environment,
> 	with high heat and humidity during those Houston summers.  When I
> 	unwrapped them, they were all gummed up because of the castor, but
> 	there was not one speck of rust.  I still use them today.  The
> 	castor gum can be dealt with.  A little heat softens it right up,
> 	and you just disassemble them and clean 'em up.
> 	
> 	For 8 months, the castor won't even gum up.
> 	
> 	If you are bound and determined to avoid castor, the next best
> 	thing is liberal use of a good after-run oil.  The best I've
> 	seen is 50-50 Marvel Mystery and automatic transmission fluid.


Or you could pull the engines out of the planes, pull the glow plugs off, 
and drop them into a jar of Marvel Mystery Oil or automatic transmission 
fluid.  That way there is no gummed castor and no way for rust to form. 
When you're ready to fly again, drain the excess oil from the engines 
and wipe the exterior off with a paper towel, replace the glow plug and 
go fly.
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: paulb@cbnewsk.cb.att.com (paul.l.bidwell)
Subject: Engine settings for OS 32-FH
Organization: AT&T
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 12:28:49 GMT
Keywords: engine OS 32

I have a Concept 30 with an OS 32 FH heli engine. I suspect my
engine is in trouble, since I'm getting a lot of metallic chattering
at half throttle, and then a complete loss of power.

I have taken the Concept apart, and I can't find anything wrong with the
drive train/clutch mechanism.

My local dealer says it could be a bearing.

My question is: what is a recommended needle valve setting for this
type of engine? 

I was very much a novice when I started out. This engine is 1.5 yrs.
old, with 3 gallons of fuel on it. I started the needle setting at
1, and have gradually increased it as necessary to 2. I'm now wondering
if early on I ran the engine too lean, and prematurely aged it.

Any advice would be helpful.

Paul Bidwell
paul@alux2.att.com
From: miked@syscon.rn.com (Mike DeMetz)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: remote camera and Re: Micro Video
Date: 1 Sep 92 13:28:27 GMT
Organization: Syscon Corporate Headquarters - South Bend, IN USA

I have the micro transmitter. I built it from the '73 article. I have
not got a minature camera yet. Check out Supercircuits ads in RCM.
The lower the power the less likely you will cause problems with
your RX.
From: asdch@acad2.alaska.edu
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Gas cars.
Summary: 1/8th gas Vanning
Keywords: gas car
Date: 28 Aug 92 23:07:19 GMT
Reply-To: asdch@acad2*.alaska.edu
Organization: University of Alaska

In article <1992Aug24.115815.1366@hsr.no>, paal-sb@hsr.no (Paal Steinar Berg) writes:
> Anyone out there run 1/8 scale on-road gas cars...
> 
> I've go at serpent sprint with a rex engine.
> 
> PSB
>
From: asdch@acad2.alaska.edu
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: testing/new user
Summary: test
Date: 28 Aug 92 23:25:20 GMT
Organization: University of Alaska

In article <1992Aug28.185637.1@acad2.alaska.edu>, asdch@acad2.alaska.edu writes:
> In article <1992Aug24.115815.1366@hsr.no>, paal-sb@hsr.no (Paal Steinar Berg) writes:
>> Anyone out there run 1/8 scale on-road gas cars...
>> 
>> I've go at serpent sprint with a rex engine.
>> 
>> PSB
>>
From: asdch@acad2.alaska.edu
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Gas cars.,1/8 scale gas Vanning
Date: 28 Aug 92 22:56:37 GMT
Organization: University of Alaska

In article <1992Aug24.115815.1366@hsr.no>, paal-sb@hsr.no (Paal Steinar Berg) writes:
> Anyone out there run 1/8 scale on-road gas cars...
> 
> I've go at serpent sprint with a rex engine.
> 
> PSB
> 
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: yves@speedy.dev.cdx.mot.com (Yves Vidal)
Subject: Re: Submarines anyone? 
Organization: Motorola Codex, Canton, MA
Distribution: rec.models.rc
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 13:15:07 GMT
Keywords: Submarine RC model	

In article <1992Sep1.193015.10812@bnr.ca> andersn@bnr.ca writes:

>(Specific question: Are NiCad's the explosion hazard that I have heard
>about when used in the air-tight compartment of a submarine with the
>sparks of the electric motor?!!)

No, this cannot happen. NI-CAds batteries are usually not 
generating any explosive gaz and therefore should never explode
in a air tight environement. There are some actual stories of 
RC models submarines exploding under the water because of Lead-
Acid batteries, poorly charged and placed in the same location as the 
electric motor. In all cases, you should never put your batteries 
in the same compartment as the motor. Be also careful to the wiring : 
Gaz must no be able to pass from the batteries compartment to the 
motor compartment. One solution used by a lot of modelers is to 
use sealed lead acid batteries set directly into the water. Therefore all 
bad and hazardous gaz, if any, run directly to the water.

Have fun, but be careful.
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib)
Subject: Re: Boats and float planes
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 04:09:14 GMT

In article <1992Aug26.213021.1175@usenet.ins.cwru.edu> bs464@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Duncan R. McCoy) writes:

>Oliver - As an old carrier sailor (USS Bon Homme Richard, CVA-31, 1966/67),
>it sounds to me like someone is pulling your chain. To launch and retrieve
>model airplanes would require a L A R G E model carrier. We're talking
>long and wide and we're talking lots of water. Mooring fees. Master's
>rating for the captain. In order to achieve the utmost in realism, you're
>going to need an operating steam catapult. And a landing signals officer
>and LSO board. Mid-air tanking. Alpha strikes.

And then theres C/L Carrier... Not exactly realistic but 
pretty interesting to watch the first couple times...

The airplanes have to be scale or semi-scale representa-
tions of actual airplanes that one can prove were actually 
used on a carrier, or made a carrier landing. The are pow-
ered by a .35 or .60 depending on class. They have to make 
a high speed run (low time = more points) and a low speed 
run (high time = more points) then a landing on a simulated 
carrier deck (about 30 feet long) complete with arrestor 
wires. 

Its interesting to watch them transition from high speed to 
low speed and everything drop out of the airplane (tailhook,
flaps, line slider...) and the airplane crawl around the cir-
cle at snail's pace with the nose pointed up about 60 degrees-
a judge actually goes out to the middle of the circle and 
holds up a 60 degree set square to make sure 60 degrees isn't 
exceeded (the pilot can be warned up to 3 times). 

Legend has it that in the distant past, Burt Rutan flew C/L 
Carrier and got ridiculously high low speed scores, which is 
why they introduced the 60 degree rule. Even with the 60 de-
gree rule the airplanes can actually hover in a slight breeze 
which is why they have a maximum breeze speed rule too. Every-
one tries to find a design that will give them the best possi-
ble airplane, which is why everyone flies something bland 
called the MO-1.

Fanjets wouldn't stand a chance ...  9-)




-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Iskandar Taib                          | The only thing worse than Peach ala
Internet: NTAIB@SILVER.UCS.INDIANA.EDU |    Frog is Frog ala Peach
Bitnet:   NTAIB@IUBACS                 !
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc,rec.radio.amateur.misc
From: mwp@ms9.mis.semi.harris.com (Mark W. Poole)
Subject: Receivers
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 19:03:50 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

I have a 6 channel FM system, and I was wondering if I could use
a reciever that has fewer than 6 channel capability.  In other
words, can I use a two channel receiver with a 6 channel
transmitter??

thanks,

Mark.
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: chasej@bcstec.ca.boeing.com (James B. Chase)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: FOR SALE: RC car 4x4
Keywords: 4x4 car
Date: 2 Sep 92 16:32:56 GMT
Organization: Boeing Computer Services, Seattle


		FOR  SALE
	*Turbo Optima Mid SE

	*Four Wheel Drive
	*Graphite chassis with stretch kit
	*Kyosho 14-turn Precision Motor
	*Tekin 600 PXT Speed Control
	*Trinity 7 cell, 1700mAh saddle battery pack
	*KO Propo EX-5 Pistol Grip Radio
	*Robinson Pinions and Spurs
	*Bi-Level Rear Wing
	*Steadylift Car stand
	*2 Types of battery charger

ALL FOR  ONLY  $200.00 (you pay shipping)


If anybody is interested use E-mail, please.

-- 
James B. Chase             chasej@bcstec.boeing.com  ___ ___ ___ ___     ___
System Administrator         =+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=    /__//  //__  /  /\ //  _
P.O. Box 24346  M.S. 64-25   =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=   /__//__//__ _/_ /  //__/
Seattle, WA 98124-0346  U.S.A  +1 206 237-6512        Computer Services
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: paal-sb@hsr.no (Paal Steinar Berg)
Subject: Re: 1/12 or 1/10 electric on-road cars
Organization: Rogaland University Centre
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 08:33:58 GMT

In article <92246.122837IO10046@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>, <IO10046@MAINE.MAINE.EDU> writes:
> In article <1992Sep1.084353.18250@hsr.no>, paal-sb@hsr.no (Paal Steinar Berg)
> says:
> >
> >In article <92244.124441IO10046@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>, <IO10046@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>
> >writes:
> >
> >>
> >>    WHEN YOU TALK OF ON-ROAD ELECTRIC CARS, I'M ASSUMING YOU ARE SPEAKING
> >> OF PAN CARS.  PAN CARS ARE NOT THE IDEAL RECREATIONAL RC CAR.  AN OFF-
> >> ROAD CAR MAY SUIT YOU BETTER.   THERE ARE FULL SUSPENSION ON ROADS CARS
> >> OUT THERE, BUT THEY ARE EXPENSIVE AND ARE NOT COMPETIVE WITH PAN CARS
> >> ON SMOOTH TRACKS BECAUSE OF THERE WEIGHT DIFFERENCE.
> >
> >How much does the pan cars weigh? The Serpent Tenforce weighs 1200 grams if I
> >remenber right. And that is with an aluminium chassis. What is the minimum
> >weight
> >for an 1/ 10 scale on-road car?
> 
>   The minumum weight where I race is 2 pounds 10 ounces.  I'm not sure
> if that is ROAR rules or just this tracks.  This weight is the actual race
> weight... Not just the weight of the chassis.  How many pounds are in
> 1200 grams anyway?


2 pounds 10 ounces is 1188 grams and 1200 is about 2 pounds 11 ounces. Haven't
you guys gone metric? 1000 grams = 1kg = 2.2026 pounds 1 ounce = 28 grams .i.e
1200 grams = 42.something ounces. And that is race ready with all the
batteries ESC and rc-stuff for the TenForce.

> >
> >WHOW, WHY HAVE YOU GOT SO BIG LETTERS GRANDMA?
> >
> >Paal            (Gasheads unite)
>     I guess I was just feeling big that day.
>  Aaron

Yeah doesn't we all from time to time


Paal
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: djones@iex.UUCP (Doug Jones)
Subject: Re: Thanks to all!!
Organization: IEX Corporation
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 17:03:59 GMT

Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Thanks to all!!
Summary: 
Expires: 
Followup-To: uunet!iex!djones
Distribution: world
Organization: IEX Corporation
Keywords: 

Sorry if this post appears twice...rn is NOT my favorite
news reader/poster!!! ;-)

Thanks to all who have posted and mailed suggestions on how
to deal with my foam cores. These cores are for a Great Planes
Big Stick 40. The actual plane is an old Jensen Stick with a
Super Tiger 60 on the front. I could not find a wing kit for this
plane and the Big Stick 40 wing is ALMOST the exact size. It
is just a couple of inches shorter, but the chord and thickness
are almost identical.

Well the cores are here, but I am currently laid up with a
herniated disk. So unfortunately I will have to wait for a bit
before I get started.

My plan is as follows and I post it here for comment from those
who should chose to do so.

The cores alreadt have a formed leading edge so the  skin will 
have to be formed around this. I expect to use 1/16" balsa for
the skin but have not ruled out obechi wood. The leading edges will
be soaked and formed around a broom handle before being applied.
I will most likely use 3M77 or Core Bond as the adhesive to hold
the skins. The larger skin sections will be prejoined and installed
as one piece. (Someone had an interesting suggestion about splicing
the balsa sheets together and then glassing the INSIDE of the sheet
before attaching to the cores. The using the core beds to ensure
a good fit!) Prior to sheeting 2 1/4x1/4 spars will be added and
probably a large plywood bar in the center for strength. I will be
using the Wing Mfg steel cable for aileron control. I will probably
join the sections together before sheeting/glassing. A trailing
edge piece will be made from a suitable size of balsa stock. Aileron
will be stock and probably attached with Granite State Iron on hinges.
Slots will be cut with a soldering gun hot wire. 

Once the wing is sheeted and ready for finishing I will probably
add a 2 inches piece of cloth help down with polyester resin (I 
too like polyester resin....I also understand the risks) with a
second coat of resin and microballoons for smoothness. This 
step may be omitted. I will glass with .56oz cloth and may use 
dope. One coat to seal the wood, one coat to hold the cloth and
a final coat of sanding sealer for filling. I will spray the wing
with wither Hobby Poxy paint or dope. As with glassing with resin
there can be no leaks in the sheeting where the dope could leak
through since it too will attack the foam.

This is it in a nutshell. I am sure the process will need modification
as I proceed to ensure a smooth and pretty wing.

Thanks again to all those who provided advice. Though the responses
were many and varied the central theme consisted of balsa sheeting
and epoxy/resin/dope with lightweight cloth.

Doug