HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: sutton@lamar.ColoState.EDU (Rich Sutton)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.misc,rec.bicycles.marketplace
Subject: Re: advice sought on cannondale's m1000 ('92)
Date: 12 Sep 92 15:09:12 GMT
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.marketplace
Distribution: usa
Organization: Colorado State University, Fort Collins, CO  80523

In article <1992Sep11.214305.7769@uwm.edu> jitendra@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Jitendra Kavathekar) writes:
>Hello NetLand,
>
>   I would like to hear opinions/impressions of the Cannondale M1000 MTB.
>   I am specifially looking at the 1992 model.
>
>   I have an opportunity to buy it for $750.  Do you think that the bike
>   could be gotten  *anywhere* for much less?
>

Followups directed to rec.bicycles.marketplace





		Posting Guidelines for the New Newsgroups

rec.bicycles.marketplace: Bicycles, components, ancillary equipment and
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
services wanted or for sale, reviews of such things, places to buy
                             ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^  ^^^^^^^^^^^^^
them, and evaluations of these sources.  Not for discussion of general
^^^^
engineering, maintenance, or repair -- see rec.bicycles.tech.

rec.bicycles.tech: Techniques of engineering, construction, maintenance
and repair of bicycles and ancillary equipment.  Not for products or
services offered or wanted -- see rec.bicycles.marketplace.

rec.bicycles.rides: Discussions of tours and training or commuting routes.
Not for disussion of general riding techniques -- see rec.bicycles.misc.

rec.bicycles.soc: Social issues, cycling transportation advocacy, laws,
conduct of riders and drivers; road hazards such as potholes, dogs, and
sociopaths.

rec.bicycles.racing: Race results, racing techniques, rules, and
organizations.  Not racing equipment -- see rec.bicycles.marketplace
or rec.bicycles.tech.

rec.bicycles.misc:  General riding techniques, rider physiology,
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
injuries and treatment, diets, and other cycling topics.
Xref: sparky rec.bicycles.misc:432 news.answers:2897
From: arpepper@math.uwaterloo.ca (Adrian Pepper)
Subject: Re: MTB ratio advice wanted
Organization: University of Waterloo Math Faculty Computing Facility, Ontario.
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 21:33:27 GMT

In article <102420004@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM> khe@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Keith Erskine) writes:
>In rec.bicycles.misc, meinel@aero.org (Edward S. Meinel) writes:
>
>> Get a 13-30. You can never have too low of a granny gear.
>> If you are riding on the road with the off-road tires,
>> a 12 is almost useless except for tail winds and
>> downhill sections.
>
>I agree that it's nice to have very low granny gears, but
>I disagree that a 12 tooth cog is almost useless.  I'm
>almost always in my 48x12 on the road, unless there's
>an uphill or a headwind.  
>
>Choosing mtb gears is definitely a compromise.  Soon I'm
>going to put an Ultegra 8spd hub on my mtb so I can run
>an 11-28 cluster and get a big enough gear for the road.  
While a 48x12 might be what YOU want on the road, I am sure the average
rider rarely needs something that large, and certainly would not
"almost always" be in it.  I mean, 90 rpm will be well over 25 mph.

Adrian Pepper.
arpepper@math.uwaterloo.ca
Xref: sparky rec.bicycles.misc:294 rec.bicycles.soc:125 rec.bicycles.tech:298 rec.bicycles:22237
From: dadmun@maple.circa.ufl.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.misc,rec.bicycles.soc,rec.bicycles.tech,rec.bicycles
Subject: Re: Wheel truing I need advice
Date: 3 Sep 92 15:02:26 GMT
Reply-To: dadmun@maple.circa.ufl.edu
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.misc
Organization: University of Florida - CIRCA

In article <1992Aug25.200946.15374@samba.oit.unc.edu>, Richard.Banks@bbs.oit.unc.edu (Richard Banks) writes:
>
>I need both my front and rear wheels trued on my 18-speed 26 in.
>Mountain Bike.  The bike shop charges $4.00 per wheel to do this.
>Is this reasonable?  Are there any home methods that I can use that
>will be effective?  Thanks.
>
$4 isn't too bad - but I have had my MTB completely tuned up for $20.
Anyway, you shouldn't attempt to true yourself unless you know how. 
You can really screw it up - I know.  The pros have a mount they put 
the wheel in to show where it should be trued, i.e. which spokes.  You
can use your brake pad to do this, but it isn't as accurate.  If you 
can, find a place with nice folks - even better, a one or two person
shop - like the one I used to go to,  become friends with the people,
and you can learn a LOT from them.  The guy I went to in Ithaca, NY
used to just fix up his friends' bikes.  Gradually, by word of mouth,
he has become the MTB repair god.  He'll teach you about your bike and
has amazingly low rates - it is his moonlighting job.  If you live 
near Ithaca check out Glenn Swan -  Swan Cycles.  He'll put together 
a Diamonback for you, with custom components, at about $50 above cost.
Andy D.
From: jlacoss@isi.edu (Jeff LaCoss)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.misc
Subject: Re: Definition of a "hybrid" bike ???
Date: 14 Sep 92 02:25:12 GMT
Reply-To: jlacoss@paddington.isi.edu (Jeff LaCoss)
Organization: USC-Information Sciences Institute


 A "hybrid" combines the best features of a road and a mountain bike
to produce a rugged "city" bike. If you start thinking of a pair of
medium-width tires in a mountain-bike frame, your're getting close:
you get a bike that looks either like a lightweight mountain bike or a
really sturdy road bike with heftier tires. The seating posture is
more upright than a road bike, too.

 Again, I key on the tires: they make the ride softer than a road
bike, but they have less drag on them so you can ride with more ease
than a mountain bike. They have more tread depth than a road bike, so
you can ride across a dirt field with a modicum of impunity, while not
getting the noise or vibro-massage that mountain bike tires sometimes
give.

	Jeff
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.misc
From: les@SAIL.Stanford.EDU (Les Earnest)
Subject: Re: MTB ratio advice wanted
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.marketplace
Reply-To: les@cs.stanford.edu
Organization: Computer Science Department, Stanford University
	<JAMIE.92Sep11115453@sirius.digital.co.jp>
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 23:02:12 GMT

This thread regarding mountain bike equipment continues to be misplaced.
Followup to rec.bicycles.marketplace.

--
Les Earnest                                  Phone:  415 941-3984
Internet: Les@cs.Stanford.edu              USMail: 12769 Dianne Drive
UUCP: . . . decwrl!cs.Stanford.edu!Les         Los Altos Hills, CA 94022
From: truesdel@ics.uci.edu (R. Scott Truesdell)
Subject: Re: Definition of a "hybrid" bike ???
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.misc
Organization: University of California, Irvine
Date: 9 Sep 92 23:06:27 GMT
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.misc

I may get flamed for this, but my (limited) experience keeps showing me
that the most hard-core mountain bike does relatively better on the
pavement than the best of the hybrids do in the dirt.

I follow Steve Elliott's opinion that if you're going to do both pavement
and off-road riding seriously :-) then get two bikes. Otherwise, if as
little as 10% of the riding will be off-road (especially 'seriously'
off-road (bumpy single track, rocks, steep climbs and steep drops, sand,
mud, etc.)) go for the mountain bike. The grief that a full-fledged
mountain bike will cause one on the pavement is insignificant compared to
the misery of trying to baby a hybrid on a fast off-road ride.

And if it REALLY matters, get a set of Avocet inverse tread tires for long
road rides. I built up a set of wheels just for the Avocets so I could swap
the smooth road tires with my normal off-road tires quickly and
efficiently.

  --scott
From: casseres@apple.com (David Casseres)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.misc
Subject: Re: Ignorant Cyclists (was: Hints on commuting by bike?)
Date: 10 Sep 92 21:01:39 GMT
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.misc
Organization: Apple Computer Inc.

In article <k2hnh=#.tomk@netcom.com>, tomk@netcom.com (Thomas H. Kunich)
wrote:

[someone else wrote]
> >...At least when he's on the left (US) he can see
> >what is coming at him. Riding on the right he must rely on poor rear view
> >sight and the skill, good will, and alertness of every driver going his
> >way.

Of course, no matter which side you ride on you must rely on the skill,
good
will, and alertness of every driver who comes anywhere near you.

> I agree with this. In fact it may very well _BE_ the intelligent thing to.
> Small children, like pedestrians, have a forward velocity low enough 
> that additive energy is  a pretty minor part of the equation. In this
> case it would seem that avoidance is more important than direction of
> traffic.

Driving on the wrong side (against traffic) is extremely dangerous and one
of the main causes of car/bike accidents.  It has nothing to do with the
energy difference due to greater closing speed; it has to do with being
seen by drivers.  A bike going the wrong way is much more likely to be
overlooked, because it doesn't fit into the driver's visual scan -- he or
she is looking for cars moving the same direction.

By the way, I don't know what you mean by "small children."  To me this
means kids under the age of 8 or 9, and they shouldn't be riding
unsupervised in the presence of dangerous traffic anyway.

> And, as a pedestrian, I have _jumped_ out of impending doom often
> enough to not believe that "if a car is going to hit you, it is
> going to hit you."

A bike doesn't have the evasive maneuverability of a pedestrian.  The most
important elements in safe cycling are being clearly visible, being where
you are expected to be, and being predictable.

--

David Casseres
Exclaimer: Wow!
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.misc
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.misc

In rec.bicycles.misc, aviator@athena.mit.edu (Joakim Karlsson) writes:

> Mountain Biking [?]: Geared towards competition, didn't inspire
> me, but I've only paged through it.
> ...
> Mountain and City Biking [?]: Know nothing about it, I can't find it at
> any news stands or bike stores around here.

That's because it is merely the old name for "Mountain Biking" (it changed a
few months ago).

If you are a recreational rider looking for information of use to you (riding
tips, reviews of affordable bikes & componenty, etc), then this and "Bicycle
Guide" are probably your best bets.  "Mountain Biking" has a lot of competition
stuff that you will probably want to ignore, but there is still some "useful"
information left - more so than MBA, I find.  I think it has an undeserved
reputation as a fluff rag (although this reputation may have been more
appropriate a couple of years ago).  "Bicycle Guide" will have a lot of road
related articles that may or may not interest you, but probably has more
recreational MTB info than the otherwise comparable (more or less) "Bicycling",
although I've never seen the "Mountain Bike" supplement.

--------------
Marc Sabatella
marc@hpmonk.fc.hp.com
From: tomk@netcom.com (Thomas H. Kunich)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.misc
Subject: Re: switching from side-by-side to single file
Date: 9 Sep 92 22:51:13 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)

In article <1992Sep9.155407.1548@nas.nasa.gov> border@wilbur.nas.nasa.gov (Ryan A. Border) writes:
>
>If the outside rider accellerates, then the roadside rider is able to
>cut in at the earliest possible moment, timing his move so as to get
>in as quickly as possible without crossing wheels with the outside 
>rider.

It is always faster to slow up then to accelerate.
>
>If the roadside rider accellerates, then he must look over his shoulder
>and try to judge when it is safe to cut in without clipping the roadside
>riders wheel.i

I would expect this to be the rear riders worry.
From: jamie@sirius.digital.co.jp (James Lyall)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.misc
Subject: Re: MTB ratio advice wanted
Date: 11 Sep 92 02:54:53 GMT
	<1992Sep3.192520.1@acad2.alaska.edu>
Organization: Digital Electronics Corp., Osaka, Japan
In-reply-to: asrbh@acad2.alaska.edu's message of 3 Sep 92 23:25:20 GMT

In article <1992Sep3.192520.1@acad2.alaska.edu> asrbh@acad2.alaska.edu writes:

   In article <1992Sep3.220522.2580@colorado.edu>, doug@shako.Colorado.EDU 
(Doug McKnight) writes:
   > 
   > I have the choice of a 12-26 or a 13-28 block for my mountain bike. The 
   > front rings are 46,36,24. 
   > 
   > I like the 46-12 gear for the road but i'm concerned that the 24-26 
   > gear will not be low enough for the steepest, loosest, most technical
   > trails (which is really what the bike is for). Bear in mind that lots of
   > MTBs hav a 30 tooth ring at the back.
   > 
   > Which block would _you_ choose? 
   > 
   > Douglas

   Definitely the 13-28 cassette.  Gives you a 22 inch gear.  Still a bit high
   but close enough.  I run a 21 inch and generally run out of traction before
   leg power (old set of hardpacks 2.2").  Use the formula (FrontTeeth*Wheel
   Diameter)/RearTeeth to give "gear."  This is the size of the effective
   tire that you are turning, eg. a 22" gear is effectively a 22" diameter
   wheel attached directly to your cranks.  Switching to a 32 tooth rear 
   only takes you down to 20 inches.  After that you need a smaller 
   chainwheel.  

   Randy

Ive never figured out why it is so hard to get a good range on mountain
bike clusters.  A lot of people ride their mtn bikes on trails AND the road,
but they are always equipped with such narrow range that it is very difficult
to ride efficiently on both. 

I use a 12-32 on the back, which I had to put together myself.  This is a 
bit of a stretch for a long-cage (standard) shimano derailer, and I dont
think a short-cage would do it.  On the front I have 24 - 38 - 52 so I can
switch tires and go from mountain bike to decent road/touring bike. Heck,
Ive even done triathalons on it - but Im just in that for fun... I would 
love to have a real racing bike if I could afford it, but if I have only
one it will always be a mountain bike!

Jamie
From: melvin@math.psu.edu (Richard Mansfield)
Subject: England
Reply-To: melvin@math.psu.edu
Organization: Dept. of Mathematics, Penn State University
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 17:18:45 GMT

I need to ship a bicycle to London. UPS would cost over $200. Parcel
Post would cost $85 and take extravagantly much time. Is there a better way?
Round trip airfare to London with a bicycle as luggage only costs a little
over $500.
From: silvert@cs.dal.ca (Bill Silvert)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.misc
Subject: Kryptonite lock problem -- stuck key
Date: 5 Sep 92 21:01:12 GMT
Reply-To: silvert@biome.bio.ns.ca (Bill Silvert)
Distribution: na
Organization: Math, Stats & CS, Dalhousie University, Halifax, NS, Canada

I was trying to match up about a dozen locks and keys today and
inadvertently stuck a Norco key in a Kryptonite-4 lock.  The key went in
easily but seems to be totally stuck.  It is rotated only a small amount, 
but it won't come out, and it appears to be latched in rather than stuck
with friction.  A dose of graphite didn't help either, and I suspect it
is really locked in.

I appear to have lost both a lock and a key (which may be the only
remaining key for a Norco lock I have!).  Does anyone have a possible
suggestion for getting the key out?

In any case, be warned.  This was an expensive slip.
-- 
William Silvert, Habitat Ecology Division, Bedford Inst. of Oceanography
P. O. Box 1006, Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, CANADA B2Y 4A2.  Tel. (902)426-1577
InterNet Address: silvert@biome.bio.ns.ca
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.misc
From: robin@uhunix.uhcc.Hawaii.Edu (Robin Amano)
Subject: Re: Definition of a "hybrid" bike ???
Organization: University of Hawaii
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 18:48:02 GMT

In article <truesdel-090992160850@cider.ics.uci.edu> truesdel@ics.uci.edu (R. Scott Truesdell) writes:
>I may get flamed for this, but my (limited) experience keeps showing me
>that the most hard-core mountain bike does relatively better on the
>pavement than the best of the hybrids do in the dirt.
>
>I follow Steve Elliott's opinion that if you're going to do both pavement
>and off-road riding seriously :-) then get two bikes. Otherwise, if as
>little as 10% of the riding will be off-road (especially 'seriously'
>off-road (bumpy single track, rocks, steep climbs and steep drops, sand,
>mud, etc.)) go for the mountain bike. The grief that a full-fledged
>mountain bike will cause one on the pavement is insignificant compared to
>the misery of trying to baby a hybrid on a fast off-road ride.




Yup, definition of a "hybrid" bike:

A bike that can't do very well off-road or on the road.

--
--------------

rob
uhcc
From: ahsu@akira.anatomy.upenn.edu (Kaneda-Akira's Defender)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.misc
Subject: Re: zefal mini hp
Date: 4 Sep 92 21:16:56 GMT
Organization: University of Pennsylvania

In article <lau.715635079@femto> lau@femto.cs.umn.edu (Patrick Lau) writes:
>I just got a mt. zefal mini double shot hp pump, and I could hardly get
>it to pump up to 70 psi.(And it claims to pump up to 100 psi in 7 strokes.

I also have a mini double shot.  Basically, I don't recommend using
the pump for anything other than emergencies since it is rather
difficult to get above 100 psi's.  Perhaps the manufacturers had some
rather beefy gentlemen demonstrate their claim, but I, for one, am not
that beefy.

I do recommend that everyone get a Zefal husky -- they're amazingly
sturdy!

--> Andrew
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.misc
From: border@wilbur.nas.nasa.gov (Ryan A. Border)
Subject: Re: switching from side-by-side to single file
Organization: NAS, NASA Ames Research Center, Moffett Field, CA
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 92 15:54:07 GMT

tomk@netcom.com (Thomas H. Kunich) writes:

> mcr@meaddata.com (Mary Ries) writes:
>>two riders happen to be riding side by side, and suddenly
>>need to move back to single file?

>The most appropriate action is almost never taken. The smart thing
>would be for the rider closest to the road side to slow down and the
>rider closest to the road center to pull over.
>
>This means that the rate of closure changes and the car driver
>has to figure out yet another change in his driving line. Increasing
>the danger to the bicyclist.
>
>No matter what kind of riders I have ridden with, experts all the way
>down to rank novices, they all seem to be incapable if figuring out
>that the idea is to get the roadside rider to the outside as fast
>as possible. I guess this has soething to do with the falibility of
>man (or woman.) :-)

I agree with Tom that getting the roadside rider out of the way as
quickly as possible is the important thing.  But, I disagree with 
his conclusion about the way to do this.

If the outside rider accellerates, then the roadside rider is able to
cut in at the earliest possible moment, timing his move so as to get
in as quickly as possible without crossing wheels with the outside 
rider.

If the roadside rider accellerates, then he must look over his shoulder
and try to judge when it is safe to cut in without clipping the roadside
riders wheel.  I think most riders would err on the side of safety (to the
other rider) leaving themselves exposed to traffic for a longer time.  

If the 2 riders know eachother really well, then the outside rider can tell
the roadside rider when it's safe to cut in- but even then, I think it would
still be faster for the roadside rider to cut in behind the other rider, so
he can cut it 'close' without worrying about crashing the other rider.
_______________________________________________________________________________
* Ryan A. Border               border@nas.nasa.gov,   border@craywr.cray.com  *
* Cray Research Inc., On Site Applications Analyst 415-604-4633  o__ o__      *
* Numerical Aerodynamic Simulator, NASA Ames Research Center    _.>/-.>/'_    *
* Never trust someone who can count to 1023 on their fingers.  ( ) \---\(*)...*
==============================================================================*


Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.misc
From: arnie@col.hp.com (Arnie Berger)
Subject: Please! only one posting
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 18:27:43 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division

Since I didn't bother to vote against the splitting of rec.bicycles I'm
on shaky ground here, but....

Please pick the category for your posting and post it only once. Do not
cross post to every other category. You are cluttering the newsgroup
and making it difficult and time consuming to keep up to date.

                                                        Arnie
-- 
Arnie Berger
arnie@hplsdvt
Telnet 590-5642
From: jym@mica.berkeley.edu (Jym Dyer)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.misc
Subject: Re: Mountain Bike Magazines
Date: 14 Sep 92 17:48:02
Organization: The Naughty Peahen Party Line
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: remarque.berkeley.edu
In-reply-to: aviator@athena.mit.edu's message of 3 Sep 92 16:38:24 GMT

=o= I usually get all I need from the _Mountain_Bike_ insert of
_Bicycling_.  Plenty of material in _Bicycling_ itself applies
off-road as well as on the road.

=o= For what it's worth, I've got a hybrid bike that I commute
on bumpy roads with during the week and take into off-road
trails during the weekends.

=o= I think _Mountain_Bike_Action_'s "rebelliousness" is just
posturing.  They promote all this irresponsible wilderness-
wrecking "gonzo" biking and we're supposed to be impressed at
how daring they are?  Pfui.

=o= Both magazines suffer from happy-talk industry-boosterism.
Nature of the beast, I guess.
    <_Jym_>
--
Make no mistake about it, this president is in charge.  He is in
 touch.
                -- Vice President George Bush, on Ronald Reagan.
From: bob@cc.usu.edu (Bob Bayn)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.misc
Subject: Re: Donating Blood when Commuting by Bike
Date: 14 Sep 92 09:49:11 MDT
Organization: Utah State Univ

royce@mdcbbs.com (Royce D. Myers EDS/Unigraphics) writes:
>   This Wednesday I'll be donating blood.  I commute to work via bike most
>   of the time, and the question is, does anyone know how losing a unit of
>   blood will affect my ride home?  Should I wimp out and drive that day?

After reading the initial spate of followups with their variety of bravado
and prudence,  I would suggest that a general routine of bike commuting and
a history of regular voluntary blood donations represents a lifestyle that
you can reasonably hope that your peers might strive to emulate.  If you do
both at once, it may make your accomplishment seem unreachable by an ordinary
person.  Among other considerations of safety and self-confidence, decide 
if you want to be a role model or a hero.
-- 
Robert Bayn                  o          I had to quit giving blood after
Office of Computer Services  \__^\=*    42 units when I started anti-seizure
Utah State University      (O)""""o     medication.  Wanna ride?
From: paul@panix.com (Paul Gatker)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.misc
Subject: Re: Leg shaves
Date: 15 Sep 92 01:59:06 GMT
Organization: PANIX Public Access Unix, NYC


 for the faq?

 I recommend the cheapo BIC throwaways with the orange/yellow blade covers.
 They work far and away the best of any razors I've tried. (Never tried
 electric).

 Warning: don't use these on the face-- they are lousy.

 

 
-- 
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Brooklyn NY usa                                Design & Consultation
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Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.misc