HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: steve@celia.UUCP (Steve Tyree)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Venturi Skimmer Design
Date: 5 Nov 92 20:39:05 GMT
Reply-To: celia!steve@usc.edu (Steve Tyree)
Organization: Rhythm & Hues, Inc., Hollywood


 I have been in the market for a venturi skimmer and have made some initial
"fact finding". I talked to a representative of Marine Technical Concepts
who sells the "most efficient" skimmer design on the market. Unfortunately
the price reflects this also. Way up there ! He stated that their design
uses a contained pump to push water through the venturi valve at a very
fast rate. This pump recirculates the water in the skimmer, thus the actual
throughput from the tank can be set at any rate. He said that the main pro-
blem with the venturi valve is that water rate needs to be fast to get max-
imum air bubble efficiency. If this is correct than water flow rates in 
"cheaper" venturi designs are so fast that efficient skimming might not be
possible. Anyone else have any further insight into this venturi design
issue ? It might lead me to try to build my own.

 Steve Tyree - Reef Breeder
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:8755 sci.aquaria:1629
From: jan@bagend.uucp (Jan Isley)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
Subject: (M) Black spots on my Zebrasoma flavescens
Summary: what the hell is that
Keywords: yellow tang black spots parasite
Date: 5 Nov 92 03:01:23 GMT
Article-I.D.: bagend.1992Nov5.030123.2643
Organization: This space for rent.

I have a 30 gallon tank that is used as sort of a post hospital
fattening up tank.  It has an air driven UGF with 1 inch of crushed
coral and shell substrate, and an ehiem 2215 with ceramic rings,
green floss, white floss and chemipure.  The water quality is great.

It currently has a small Amphiprion ocellaris that has been there
for 3 months and was never sick, just needed a home, a small generic
blue damsel that has been there for about 3 months since it got out
of the hospital tank from a bad case of Oodinium that wiped out the
rest of its previous tank mates, and the 3 to 4 inch Zebrasoma in
question has been there for 4 months, having been removed from a
tank where several large nasty clowns ripped all of its fins off
and would not let it eat.  There was a small Balistapus undulatus
in there for several months but he went to another tank before this
infestation started.  Neither the trigger nor his new tank mates show
any sign of this infestation.

About a month ago I noticed several tiny black spots on this tang
randomly spread on each side of its body.  Yes, _black_ spots, not
white.  They have sort of the same general appearance as Oodinium
spots but they were black, *very* small in diameter and seemed to
be protruding from the tang, not unlike the spines left when I get
too close to one of my wife's prickly cacti.

A search through dozens of books found no mention of _black_ spots
other that the large black spots associated with parasites sometimes
found in large freshwater fish.

I did nothing but observe for a few days.  I do not like to treat
something until I know what I am treating and am reasonably sure
that I am doing the right procedure.  And, not to be unkind but
these are not fish that I went out and bought because I wanted them,
they were rescue cases that I kept from being flushed because I had
an empty hospital tank and I am interested learning more about
treating sick fish.

After several days there were many dozens of spots on the tang
but no spots on the other fish.  I gave it a 13 minute freshwater
dip and the spots went away with no sign of any damage like you 
often see after you treat a fish for Ick.  A week to 10 days later,
the spots came back.  A second dip and they went away for about 10
days.  They are back now after a third dip.

There is still no sign of infestation on the tang's tank mates.
The tang does not and has not exhibited any behavior normally 
associated with being sick or infested with a parasite.

Any ideas what this is and what makes it go away for good?
-- 
Jan Isley   jan@bagend.uucp   gatech.edu!bagend!jan   (404)434-1335
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel)
Subject: Re: Avoiding loss of siphon in U tubes
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 21:06:47 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division

In article <lft1ouINNap0@news.bbn.com> rbrown@bbn.com writes:
>A while ago someone asked about getting rid of air bubbles in U tubes -
>his was from his house to his garage! I have a similar problem although
>in a much smaller tube (tank to prefilter box).
>
>The issue is that very small bubbles tend to collect in the top of the
>tube and eventually add up to enough to break the siphon.
>
>To fix this, I ran a piece of airline up inside the U tube to the top,
>the other end I lead down to my filter and put a check valve on it.
>Then I started a siphon in the airline. ...

Ralph is correct but the problem can be prevented by increasing the
current (flow rate) in the U tube.  If the current is fast enough
the small air bubbles wiil be swept along with the current and will
not collect to form an air pocket that will break the siphon.

You can increase the current in the U tube by using a smaller U tube,
or pumping more water.  

You can pump more water by using a larger pump, adding a second pump,
or by reducing the head your pump works against.

Howard
-- 
Howard Rebel hpcsos.col.hp.com 

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: kcwong@ssd.kodak.com (K.C. Wong)
Subject: Re: What type of cichlid?
Followup-To: rec.aquaria
Reply-To: kcwong@ssd.kodak.com
Organization: Eastman Kodak Co.
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 92 15:17:49 GMT

In article 6879@news.duke.edu, infante@acpub.duke.edu (Andrew  Infante) writes:
>Hi all, I'm back again.
>
>A couple of months ago I posted that I got a pair of cichlids known
>as "acii" to the fish store people, but I have been unable to find any info
>on this species.
>
>I looked in a couple of books - specifically "Tanganyikan cichlids" and
>another, but the books might be out of date (late 70's, early 80's).
>
>These fish have yellow fins fading to white at the ends; at this age of
>~4-5 months they colors range on the body from silver grey with 
>irridescent blue to mostly blue-grey with more irridescence around the 
>gill area.
>
>The anal fin is faded yellow-white with a round yellow spot at the end.
>
>Does anyone have advice on where to look for who these guys are?
>Anyone know offhand what they are?
>
>thanks.
>
>andy.


A lot of fish farms and hobbyist have no qualm about hybridizing
different species of fish, especially cichlids, to create various
color/body/finnage combinations (e.g. parrot cichlids). So your search
for your cichlid's identity could be a waste of time.  One way to get
original fish is from clubs or association such as the American Cichlid
Association or American Killifish Association where hybridized fish are
normally frowned upon.

KC
From: raible@cbmvax.commodore.com (Bob Raible - LSI Design)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Chelated Iron
Date: 9 Nov 92 14:46:56 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: Commodore

In article <BxDFM3.HH0@news.cso.uiuc.edu> ffujita@s.psych.uiuc.edu (Frank Fujita) writes:
>I was wondering if anybody sells chelated iron other than Dupla.  I've
>seen lots of chelated iron in regular fertilizers, (along with
>phosphates, chelated coppe, ammonia and other nasties).  Surely
>there must be a source of (cheap, large quantity) chelated iron.
>Frank Fujita 
> 
If you are rich you can purchase Theil's or Dupla's iron with trace mineral
products, or you can start poking around nursery supply place and look for
Dexol B-1 which is basically chelated iron and vitamin B-1. I was lucky
enough to locate some at a local chain during an end of season clearance. The
normal price was someting like $2.99 or $3.99 for a pint, but I managed to
obtain 4 or 5 for $.99 apiece.

-- 
_____________________________________________________________________________
Robert J. Raible		EMAIL:raible@cbmvax.commodore.com
VLSI Program Manager		 or: {uunet|rutgers|pyramid}!cbmvax!raible
Commodore Business Machines     "my comments, not Commodore's, ok ?"
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: wissler@stsci.edu
Subject: (M) Info on "Devil's Hand Coral Needed"
Organization: Space Telescope Science Institute
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 13:21:09 GMT


	I saw a soft coral in the local aquarium store here and was wondering
	about it's liting requirements. Does it like the bright stuff or
	would it like a dark corner of the reef. The store has it labled
	as a "Devil's Hand Coral". It is some sort of soft, branching coral.
	Any comments on this species would be appreciated.

					Thanks,

					Steve Wissler
					wissler@stsci.edu
					Space Telescope Science Institute
					Baltimore, Md.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: harold@wam.umd.edu (James B. Harold)
Subject: Re: Feeding Fish When On Vacation
Organization: University of Maryland, College Park
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 13:44:47 GMT

In article <1992Nov11.051021.12489@ucsu.Colorado.EDU> nagel@ucsu.Colorado.EDU (Kurt Nagel) writes:
>stu@mbsdev24.shearson.com ( Stuart Bernstein ) writes:
>
>>  I plan on taking a vacation for 9 days soon.  I was
>>  wondering what would be the best method for feeding
>>  my fish (2 Dwarf Gourmis, 6 Cardinal Tetras, 2 Rasb. Barbs, 3 Zebra Danios)
>
>	There is an excellant article in this months Freshwater and Marine
>Aquarium magazine concerning vacations.  Basically, fish are very hardy and
>can survive just fine WITHOUT food for a few weeks.  Actually the article 
>indicates that there is a large amount of available food in a well established
>aquarium anyway. <...> 
 
Thought I'd mention that sometimes the "available food" takes the form
of other fish  :-(.  Each time I've left my Africans for more then
a few days and the feeder has broken, I've ended up with fewer fish
on my return... I still believe that they _could_ have gone
a week without food:  unfortunately, they chose another option.

This is less likely to be an issue for tetras, etc, but in my 
experience it's something to consider in tanks with more
agressive fish.  After trying several brands, I finally settled
on "Fish Sitter" feeders (available from That Fish Place for
around $30).  They seem to me to be the best things I've found
for the money.   They give you a reasonable amount of control
over feeding frequency and accept a fair variety of foods.

-- 

James Harold                 "There is always an easy solution to
harold@wam.umd.edu            every human problem -- neat, plausible,
                              and wrong."    --  H. L. Mencken 
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: rclark@alcor.concordia.ca (Richard Clark)
Subject: What slide presentations are available for club meetings?
Keywords: club, presentations, slide, program 
Organization: Concordia University, Montreal, Quebec
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 04:43:07 GMT


My club is having a hard time coming up with slide presentations every
week.  Could someone who knows of presentations available from other
organizations (like ACA, IBC, other clubs...) please tell me the
title/subject of a presentation and who to contact to obtain it.  If
it requires joining the specialty organization we're willing to do
that.  I'll gladly post a summary if I get some replies.

thanks

rick
-- 
rick clark (rclark@alcor.concordia.ca) | Ban Handguns.
           (CIS 70272,3270)            |
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: Tom_Cretain@mindlink.bc.ca (Tom Cretain)
Subject: Telnetting
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 02:21:41 GMT

Does anyone know of aquarium based Bbs's available through
telnetting ? I don't know much about telnetting so information on
the address of such a board,and perhaps a brief note on how to
gain access to it would be greatly appreciated.
 Thanks.

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: tse@ra.nrl.navy.mil (Anthony Tse)
Subject: Re: (m) help hair algea!?!?!
Organization: Naval Research Lab, Washington, DC
Distribution: rec
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 16:39:42 GMT

In article <1992Nov8.4149.10864@dosgate> "larry wheatley" <larry.wheatley@canrem.com> writes:
>Hi All,
>        Well I was happy when me tank finished cycling about a week
>ago, but now I have this HUGE HAIR ALGEA(green) problem.
>It is on everything, everwhere and everone.
>
>Will this ugly green stuff die off one day or will I have to get a
>tang or two to keep it in line?
	
	Don't know, when I had a tang, it liked macro algea.

>Will it run out of what it feeds on?

	Not if you leave the algea in the tank to die on their own and
pollute the tank all over again.  I assume you have a protein skimmer,
if not, get one.  I also assume you have either RO or KATI/ANI, if not,
make sure your make up water is free of PO4.  Then the best thing you
can do is to go to a hardware store and buy a scrub brush and take your
rock out and scrub them clean.  Don't worry about killing the stuff
on your rock, the algea is going to do far more damage in the long run
then the scrubbing.  After you put the rock back in the tank, get some
turbo snails, like 2 per 10g, this should help things a bit.  Also, if
your nitrate is high, do major water changes until you get it back below
5ppm Nitrate Nitrogen.

>I have the biggest problem on top near the MH 175's my photoperiod
>is 1 hour of 03 actinics and then 10 hours of MH and 2 other full 
>spectrum bulds.

	I suggest you turn the MH off for a few weeks until things settle
down.  Why are you running the 03 for only 1 hour?  If anything, you
should run the 03s for 12 hours and the MH for 6-8 hours.


-Anthony
From: 01mbmccabe@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Feeding Fish When On Vacation
Date: 12 Nov 92 05:25:42 GMT
Article-I.D.: bsu-ucs.1992Nov12.002542.11789
Organization: Ball State University, Muncie, In - Univ. Computing Svc's

> 	There is an excellant article in this months Freshwater and Marine
> Aquarium magazine concerning vacations.  Basically, fish are very hardy and
> can survive just fine WITHOUT food for a few weeks.

I live in a dorm that is locked to everyone except hall directors, over the
holidays...  I will be away over Thanksgiving for no more than two weeks...that
doesn't bother me.  However, Christmas break will be commiong  shortly after
that and lasts for ~4 weeks....Does anyone besides me think this might be a wee
bit long for a ~6" Oscar,  ~5" Tinfoil Barb,  and ~5" Pleco to suvivie unfed in
a 20gal High tank with and undergravel filter (two Marineland 550 powerheads
for total 290gph) and a Dynaflow3 (rated 300gph I think)?  If you think that's
a little too long, what do you think would be the beqast alternative?  Taking
the fish with me is pretty much out of the question because I will be traveling
a lot.                  Anyone?

				-Matt
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: jimh@ultra.com (Jim Hurley)
Subject: Re: (F) Anglefish Behaviour
Organization: Ultra Network Technologies
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 92 17:29:49 GMT


In my small experience with angelfish, that sounds typical.
As they reach maturity they start to pair off and become
territorial. In my case, the males became the more aggressive
and the females rather passive.
-- 
Jim Hurley --> jimh@ultra.com  ...!ames!ultra!jimh  (408) 922-0100
Ultra Network Technologies / 101 Daggett Drive / San Jose CA 95134
Organization: University of Maine System
Date: Monday, 9 Nov 1992 20:59:53 EST
From: <APARKER@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: (F) How to tell when cichlids are about to breed?

In article <1992Nov8.013643.1120@yvax.byu.edu>, tat@yvax.byu.edu (Todd A.
Turnblom) says:
>
>I have a 30 gal. tank with 5 cichlids (zebras).  Yesterday, when I was
>cleaning it out, I found a couple of babies hiding under the rocks.
>It has been a while since I really cleaned the tank well, and it appeared
>that they had been in the tank for some time, since they are about a quarter
>of an inch long now.  What makes me mad is that I didn't notice that the
>the fish were breeding, so I missed it and lost most of the babies.

**Since _Pseudotropheus zebra_ are mouthbrooders, your best bet is to
regularly examine your females for bulging opercula (gill covers).  If
you're interested in raising as many babies as possible, remove the
females to another tank right before they're ready to release the fry
(they brood 21-23 days, as I recall), and then move them back to the
main tank  after they've let the babies go.  Hope this helps.
AP (aparker@maine.maine.edu)
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:8735 sci.aquaria:1622
From: idbremne@thunder.LakeheadU.Ca (idbremne)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
Subject: Guppies
Date: 9 Nov 1992 21:10:05 GMT
Followup-To: rec.aquaria
Organization: Lakehead University, Thunder Bay, Ont., Canada

Hi.

I am interrested in collecting recipies for making guppies

BREED LIKE THERE IS NO TOMORROW!!!!!!!

Please reply!
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: jason@lanai.cs.ucla.edu (Jason Rosenberg)
Subject: Re: Algae Blennies? (M)
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 92 22:04:30 GMT

Well, I have had a blenny for about 1 month, in my tropical, non-reef tank.
It is constantly eating, but alas, there is more than enough algae to keep
it busy.  It hasn't bothered my macro-algae, and does sample the regular
frozen food I feed the to the tank 5 times a week.

It has appendages above its eyes, like eye-lashes.  It is dark blue/black
in the front half of its body, and orange in the rear.  I am really happy
with him.  He doesn't bother anyone.  The damsels tried to chase him at
first, but he just ignored them.  They don't bother him anymore...


-- 
Jason Rosenberg                           Computer Science Department
jason@cs.ucla.edu                         University of California
{uunet,rutgers,ucbvax}!ucla-cs!jason      Los Angeles, CA  90024
From: pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Paul A Prior)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Killing with Kindness
Date: 11 Nov 92 01:43:51 GMT
Organization: The Ohio State University

In article <1992Nov10.143420.120703@watson.ibm.com> cliff@watson.ibm.com (cliff) writes:
>I have a 110 gallon freshwater tropical tank and have been doing
>20% water changes every week.  Someone told me that I should stop
>immeditately as I was overdoing it and could harm the fish.  Any tips?

Nonsense.  Unless you are pouring untreated water into your tank 
you are doing one of the most natural things you can do to air you
your tank in flourishing.  Keep it up!  20% every other week would 
probably suffice if you want to cut down on labor, but it's up to
you.


-- 
--------pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu----(614) 621-8240----------------
Paul A. Prior    Ban anchors, not reef tanks    Nuke Gay Whales for Jesus  
3rd year medical student		        
The Ohio State U. College of Medicine   Tobacco Kills- Please don't smoke!
From: tse@ra.nrl.navy.mil (Anthony Tse)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: [M] Reef Book
Date: 12 Nov 92 03:03:42 GMT
Article-I.D.: ra.BxL1u6.JA2
Organization: Naval Research Lab, Washington, DC

Hi all,

    I just ran across a great book on coral reef today.  It is call 
Coral Reefs, Nature's Richest Realm by Roger Steene.  What set this
book apart from all others is that this book is done by a photographer,
not a marine biologist.  The pictures in this book are stunning.  All
the pictures in this book are in such high quality that they ought to be
framed and hung on walls.  The cover of this book is a close up of a
flame angle.  Inside the book are 300 color plates of corals, clams,
fishs, shrimps, snails, squids, plankton, feather dusters, abalone,
nudibranchs, just about anything else you can think of.  Most of the
pictures in this book are stuff that you can buy.  And on the back are
captions on all the picture, specie name, and DEPTH where the pictures
are taken (don't expect to find all the corals you can find in the store
from this book, most of the coral pictures are acropora).

	There is a picture of exposed acropora islands in this book, the
caption said "On the Great Barrier Reef tides range over several metres.
On a few days each year unusually low tides can completely expose the
tops of the reef for an hour or two.  Exceptional calm and bright sun or
rain at this critical time can kill the exposed corals."  Note the 1 or
2 hours a few times a year bit.  Corals don't like to be exposed dispite
what some sale-critters tells you.  Some of the acropora do indeed
live in very shallow water, but some of them live in pretty deep water.
The other thing that I noticed is that there are no macro or micro algea
of any kind anywhere.

	Now to the depth:
		Acropora echinata	10m
		Galaxea fascicularis	8m
		Leptoria phrygia (brain coral)	4m
		Tubastrea	12m
		Acropora and Montipora	3m
		Acropora	15m
		Red whip gorgonain, Ellisella	16m
		Harp gorgonian, Ctenocella pectinata	15m
		Lavendar gorgonian (Florida)	20m
		Red gorgonain	20m
		Yellow and red soft coral, Siphonogorgia	20m
		Tubeworms	12m
		Feather duster worms	12m
		Christmas tree tubeworms	3m
		Sea squirt	12m
		Mantis shrimp	8m
		Harlequin shrimp	3m
		Damselfishes and Acropora cerealis	5m
		Purple fire fish	20m
		Spanish dancer nudibranch	3m
		Pink amemonefish, Amphiprion perideraion	12m
		Amenone, Heteractis magnifica	12m
		Clown anemonefish, Amphiprion percula	5m
		Clown trigger	20m
		Spawning clams, Tridacna Gigas	2m

	Check this book out, you'll like it.

-Anthony
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Subject: Re: Chelated Iron
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)
Distribution: rec
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1992 08:47:35 GMT

In article <BxDFM3.HH0@news.cso.uiuc.edu> ffujita@s.psych.uiuc.edu (Frank Fujita) writes:
>I was wondering if anybody sells chelated iron other than Dupla.  I've

Any hydroponic agriculture supply house.  For $10 you can buy enough dry 
iron chelate to last you a life time.
-- 
Oleg Kiselev at home			...use the header to find the path
From: tat@yvax.byu.edu (Todd A. Turnblom)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: (F) How to tell when cichlids are about to breed?
Date: 8 Nov 92 01:36:43 -0700
Organization: Brigham Young University

I have a 30 gal. tank with 5 cichlids (zebras).  Yesterday, when I was
cleaning it out, I found a couple of babies hiding under the rocks.  
It has been a while since I really cleaned the tank well, and it appeared
that they had been in the tank for some time, since they are about a quarter
of an inch long now.  What makes me mad is that I didn't notice that the
the fish were breeding, so I missed it and lost most of the babies.

So, my question.  How do you know when cichleds are about to breed, and 
what do you do to keep as many alive as you can?  

Thanks-
	Todd
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: babak@NOC.Vitalink.COM (Babak Roushanaee)
Subject: 		ANGEL FISH, TANKS, HEATERS AND FILTERS FOR SALE
Organization: Vitalink Communications Corporation, US
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 19:10:35 GMT

I have 3 10G, 2 20G, 1 5G and 1 55G tanks plus several high quality 
submersible heaters and internal and external filters that are currently 
extra and I would like to get rid off for very reasonable prices.
I also have hundreds of home bred BLACK LACE and GOLD VEIL ANGEL FISH 
that are very healty and heck of a lot cheaper than pet stores.
All to be picked up at my house in Fremont, CA.
 
I can be reached at:

	babak (510) 505-9562 H
	      (510) 440-2426 W
	babak@noc.vitalink.com


Keywords: 

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria