HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: bickham@lynx.msc.cornell.edu.UUCP (Scott Bickham,C17 Clark Hall,56079,2737038)
Subject: Re: Wheat-beer yeast
Originator: bickham@msc2.msc.cornell.edu
Organization: Cornell-Materials-Science-Center
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 16:03:32 GMT

From article <1993Jan11.031943.14965@colorado.edu>, by garnett@refuge.Colorado.EDU (Santiago de la Paz):
> Does anyone have a list (or just know of) commercially-available wheat beers 
> from which it is possible to culture yeast?  I have tried several times to 
> culture yeast from Ayinger, and once from Tucher, with no success.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> ~james

The problem there is that most wheat beers are bottle-conditioned with
a lager yeast, which doesn't include the Brettanomyces strain responsible
for the characteristic banana esters and clove phenolics.  I just made
two batches with the Wyeast strain, and the results were disappointing
also.  I have heard of good success with Chimay Rouge yeast, so I plan
to give that a try next time.

Scott
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: james@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (James White)
Subject: Beer bread.
Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1993 17:16:12 GMT
Reply-To: JamesWhite@vnet.ibm.com
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM Rochester

My significant other greeted me with fresh beer bread last night, made from
the spent chrystal malt from my recent Pale White Ale.  She also asked if
anyone out there has some more recipes that she might try.
 
Now I know that it is a often asked question, but I do not see enough answers
flying by.  So...

Is there a FAQ somewhere with this information.  Or a good book that I can 
point her at?

Thanks.
-- 

James White 
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: hasn@midway.uchicago.edu (Sheheryar Hasnain)
Subject: Beginners All Grain Question!?
Organization: University of Chicago
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 20:49:33 GMT

Hi
I've recently posted two articles about my first all grain
batch and having read another thread on all-grain (is this 
the all-grain season!?) I'm somewhat perplexed about 
the procedures.  This is what I followed:

INDIA PALE ALE
7lbs American 6 row
1/2 lb crystal
2 oz Northern Brewer (boil)
1 oz Cascade (finish)
2 tsp gypsum
1/4 tsp Irish moss
Edme Ale yeast (1 package)

Boil water to 130 F
Put all the grains in....stabilizing at 122F
Protein rest for 30 min.Stir every 5 min.
Increase heat to 150 (actually mine went to 160 
but thats another issue)
Cook(?) for 20 min.  Stir every 5 min.
Increase heat to 158 (I let it stay at 160 since it didnt 
make sense to further increase it)
Cook(?) for 20 min. Stir every 5 min.
Sparge with 4.5 gal 170 F water.
The boil 1 hr with hops, etc.

The other posts I just read have MUCH longer 
cooking times (about 1 hour more than mine/Papazian's).
Why so different from Papazian?  Did I miss something
about how long I should do the conversion?  If 
someone could clarify this point (general all-grain
procedure) I would appreciate it.
Thanks in advance.



Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: atl@suzuki.kpc.com (Drew Lynch)
Subject: Please explain hot and cold break to me. 
Organization: Kubota Pacific Computer
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 19:29:27 GMT

What are hot and cold break?  When do they happen? How do you tell if
you "got a good one"? How do you "get a good one"?

	all broken up,
	  Drew

-- 
+------------------------------+ Andrew Lynch, atl@kpc.com
| Congratulations, Bill and Al | Kubota Pacific Computer Inc. Santa Clara, Ca.
| Now, don't screw it up!      | (408)748-6345
+------------------------------+ Disclaimer: This is me, not them.
From: arthur@sgi.com (Arthur Evans)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: first batch questions
Date: 11 Jan 93 20:31:22 GMT
Reply-To: arthur@chiba.esd.sgi.com (Arthur Evans)
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc.

In article <C0o2F5.C84@news.cso.uiuc.edu> amead@s.psych.uiuc.edu (Alan Mead) writes:
>And I've been reading and all books disagree about *something*.  Like
>is 2 oz of chlorine bleach in cold water an effective sanitizer?
>Should I then rinse it in anything other than cold water?  Should I
>rinse it at all?  What about the rims of bottles and carboys?  these
>typically become or stay wet after rinsing and, I would think, start to
>pick up airborne bacteria and such.  Should I flame the glass rim
>before capping/removing the plug?

I use a solution of somewhere between a teaspoon and a tablespoon
of bleach in 5 gallons of water.  I've never measured very carefully,
and I've never had any problems.  I rinse with cold water afterwards.
I don't usually worry about the rims of the carboys.  Sometimes, when
I am pouring off the yeast from the bottom of a fermenter for pitching
into a new batch, I will wipe down the rim with a little bit of sanitizing
solution, then wipe it off with a paper towel.  Flaming the rim would
probably be a bit more effective.  I really wouldn't worry about this
while bottling, though.

-arthur
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Racking to Secondary
Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1993 08:40:57 -0500

One suggestion for those of you who aren't sure that there's any point to
racking to a secondary fermenter----

Taste your trub when you finally do get your beer off it.

If you like the taste of it, then you probably don't need to worry about its
flavor transferring to your beer.  

I thought it was one of the nastiest substances I have tasted.  Needless to say,
I rack to a secondary fermenter.
From: mark@verdix.com (Mark Lundquist)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Priming
Keywords: propane
Date: 8 Jan 93 20:31:36 GMT
Article-I.D.: verdix.9506
Organization: Verdix Western Operations, Aloha  OR


I tried e-mail...bwwaaaiiing!!



In article <1993Jan7.221157.24392@PacBell.COM> you write:
>
>     As a new brewer, I have a question about priming.  How ???  Do you put th
e
>gyle or sugar in the bottles, or (more likely I think) do you mix it in when
>you move the beer from the carboy ?

You got it.

>And if so, is it ok to stir it, or should
>you put your primer in the bucket first and then let it mix when you siphon th
e
>beer from the carboy ?

Do both.  Stir gently so as not to aerate the beer.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Subject: Re: a tad bit of cooking oil
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean  VA
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 13:52:46 GMT

In article <1993Jan11.164607.3072@cnsvax.uwec.edu>
 drumm@cnsvax.uwec.edu (Danny) writes:

>I think I have just a pinch of oil in my just bottled beer.
>also, I must have lost a lot of my priming sugar along the way
>because I get almost no fiz (and the oil must have what little 
>head there would have been.)

Did you add this oil to the fermenter or to the bottles?  And why or how?  
Sounds like a story is involved here.

You get no "fiz"?  How did you prime and what ingredients did you use?  A 
little more information is needed.

John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own
Fidonet:  1:109/131  Internet:  jdecarlo@mitre.org
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: marshall@sweetpea.jsc.nasa.gov (Jay Marshall)
Subject: Fuller ESB taste-alike?
Organization: McDonnell Douglas Space Systems Company
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 21:58:21 GMT

Does anyone out there have a recipe for something that would
approximate a Fuller ESB taste?
-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jay Marshall                       
marshall@sweetpea.jsc.nasa.gov    
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
(standard disclaimer)
From: hasn@midway.uchicago.edu (Sheheryar Hasnain)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Help! Stuck Fermentation or what?
Date: 4 Jan 93 15:02:41 GMT
Organization: University of Chicago

Hi
I just brewed my first all-grain batch and everything looked 
good until the next morning (about 16-20 hrs after pitching
the yeast).  The vigorous fermentation happened at approx
8 hours and lasted all night.  And then nothing!  Or at least 
very little (a bubble every 10 secs or so).  I will add that my
conversion temperatures were higher than 150-158 degrees
(closer to 165 degrees).  I went through Papazian's yeast
life cycle section of CJHB and he mentioned at for a 
homebrewer sometimes entire fermentations take 3 days!
So maybe I'm worrying too much but any advice would
be appreciated.  Should I pitch some more yeast?  Should
I just hang in there?  Help!  
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: cav@bnr.ca (Rick Cavasin)
Subject: Re: Trisodiumphosphate (TSP)
Reply-To: cav@bnr.ca (Rick Cavasin)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 93 14:39:44 GMT

In article <1993Jan12.040702.12301@news.columbia.edu>, pcj1@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu (Pierre Jelenc) writes:
|> In article <9519@verdix.verdix.com> mark@verdix.com (Mark Lundquist) writes:
|> >In article <HAK-110193161757@fp1-cc-21.uoregon.edu> HAK@oregon.uoregon.edu writes:
|> >> more [deletia] (love that word)
|> 
|> >
|> >Iodophor (an iodine and phosphoric acid solution) is a good sanitizing
|> >agent, and it doesn't require a rinse.  I was seriously looking into
|> 
|> The "phor" in iodophor comes from the Greek "phore" (to carry). An
|> iodophor is a chemical combination that "carries" iodine (iodine is
|> insoluble in water) and additionally sequesters most of it. Only a
|> very small amount of iodine is "free", regardless of the total
|> concentration, because of the equilibrium
|> 
|> Iodophor = iodine + carrier
|> 
|> The advantage of having only a small amount of iodine free is that it
|> reduces its toxicity, the staining it causes, and the hypersensitivity
|> reactions that some people experience with neat iodine.
|> 
|> While there may be phosphoric acid in some iodophors, I think that
|> many if not most are acidified with HCl (and some are not acidic at
|> all; a low pH is not necessary, though it potentiates the activity
|> against some germs - I don't remember which).
|> 
|> Pierre
|> 
|> Pierre Jelenc                        pcj1@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu 
|>                                     Columbia University, New York


I just bought a jug of iodophor on the weekend.  Both brands available at
the coop contained a large percentage of phosphoric acid (one had an additional
small percentage of citric acid).  My understanding is that the acid helps
in the cleaning function; specifically in dissolving 'milkstone', a solid
deposit formed in milk processing equipment.  The iodine is included in some
sort of complex (didn't memorize the name), so your carrier explanation may
be correct.  If so, it's quite a coincidence that they seem to package iodophors
with phosphoric acid.  Anyway, when I mix some up, I'm going to test its effect
on various plastics.  If all it does is stain them, I don't think I'll worry
too much.
Cheers, Rick C.
From: drumm@cnsvax.uwec.edu (Danny)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: a tad bit of cooking oil       
Date: 12 Jan 93 17:14:57 -0600
Organization: University of Wisconsin Eau Claire

In article <9518@verdix.verdix.com>, mark@verdix.com (Mark Lundquist) writes:
> In article <1993Jan11.164607.3072@cnsvax.uwec.edu> drumm@cnsvax.uwec.edu (Danny) writes:
>>
>>
>>I think I have just a pinch of oil in my just bottled beer.
> 
> Well, don't leave us in suspense...how did the cooking oil get into
> your beer!?! :-)


well, alright.  while I was boiling the wort, I add water a little too
hot for my 5 gallon glass carboy.  yep, you guessed it crack/smash/flood!

so at bottling time, I racked from my only remaining plastic carboy 
into my cooking pots (which I must not have cleaned enough [I was in
a hurry!])

I guess I got what I deserve. :(

-- Danny

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: fortner@hal.eel.ufl.edu (Dave Fortner)
Subject: RECIPE: Orange Blossom Amber
Originator: fortner@hal.eng.ufl.edu
Organization: University of Florida
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 93 12:30:45 GMT

I have been very actively home brewing for about the last 6 months. This is an
ale recipe that I would like to submit to be included in the Cats Meow 2.
I sort started "grabbing things" in the brew shop one day and this is what I
ended up with. At all of my tasting parties this has been a unanimous favorite.

Dave Fortner
Fortner-D@3mail.ksc.nasa.gov

*******************************************************************************

       Chapter 1: Pale Ale

                                   Orange Blossom Amber

       Source:   Dave Fortner (Fortner-D@3mail.ksc.nasa.gov)

       Ingredients (for 5 gallons):

                 6.6 pounds, Northwestern Amber Extract
                 2 cups Orange Blossom Honey (boil)
                 0.5 pound, crystal malt
                 1.5 ounces, Hallertauer hops (boil)
                 0.5 ounce, Hallertauer hops (finish)
                 1 tsp. Irish Moss
                 M&F ale yeast
                 5/8 cup Orange Blossom Honey (priming)

       Procedure:

Steep crystal malt while bringing water to a boil. Remove crystal malt and add
extract, honey and boiling hops. Boil for 15 min., add Irish Moss, boil for
another 30 min. Add finishing hops for 1-2 min. boil. After fermentation is
complete, bottle using 5/8 cup of honey with one pint water for priming.


       Comments:

Of all of the beers that I have shared with friends, this is almost unanimously
the favorite. I should note that it is very important to use Orange Blossom
Honey, I made this once with Clover Honey and it had a "grassy" after taste.
I have noticed this "grassy" after taste in every beer recipe in which I used
Clover honey, USE ORANGE BLOSSOM HONEY, it provides a residual sweetness that I
find very appealing in an amber ale like this.
From: kludge@grissom.larc.nasa.gov (Scott Dorsey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Make you go blind? (was: Re: homebrew cop tv)
Date: 6 Jan 1993 14:16:44 GMT
Organization: NASA Langley Research Center and Reptile Farm
NNTP-Posting-Host: grissom.larc.nasa.gov

In article <Jan.5.23.38.56.1993.26129@pilot.njin.net> pfaffman@pilot.njin.net (Jay Pfaffman) writes:
>Excuse me, but how can one produce poison by distilling beer?  It
>seems that by distilling all you can get it higher concentrations of
>*something* & chances are that it'll be ethanol.

If your beer had a bacterial contaminant, it could have any number of light
compounds in it which could be concentrated in the distillate.  You know
those infected beers that give you a headache afterward?  Imagine that
headache concentrated twenty times.

So, don't distill an infected mash.  No problem.  

Any small amounts of fusel oils will be concentrated when you distill.  You
definitely want to use an activated charcoal filter at the output of a still
to reduce problems from this.

There isn't any way to generate methanol from distilling beer, but there
are a number of other evil things that can be generated.  The key is to
make a good beer in the first place.
--scott

Disclaimer: distillation is illegal and I would never do such a thing
if anyone was looking.  Plus, it's really more work than it's worth.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: smmyers@foghorn.srv.pacbell.com (Sean Myers)
Subject: Re: Source:  Where to get a large kettle?
Organization: Pacific Bell OSSEM
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 19:12:49 GMT

In article <C0JrH0.Kvs@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu>, trwagner@bronze.ucs.indiana.edu (Me!! Ted.) writes:
|> 
|> 
|> 
|> 	Where can one get a large enough kettle to brew a 5 gallon
|> batch of mead/brew?  I have tried local stores.  I have seen a
|> few 23 quart kettles and pots around my little city.  However,
|> that only leaves about 3/4 of a gallon of safety.  (5.75 gal cap.).
|> 	What is a safe size kettle for a 5 gallon batch?  Should
|> I go ahead and fork over $30 for a 23 gal. Stainless kettle?  Or,
|> hold out and try to find a canning kettle?  (And,where does one
|> aquire one in a reasonable amount of time (2-3 weeks)?


     Only $30 for a 23 quart stainless steel kettle ????  Here in the San
Francisco bay area, I've only seen them for over $100.

     Am I just looking in all the wrong places ???


       _____  _____   ___   __  _       __  __ _____ ____  _____  _____ 
      |   __||   __| /   \ |  \| |     |  \/  |\ | /|  __||     \|   __|
      |__   ||   __||  ^  ||     |     |      | | | |  __||  ^  /|__   |
      |_____||_____||__|__||_|\__|     |_|\/|_| |_| |____||__|__\|_____|
  -+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+-
  + Sean M. Myers (smmyers@foghorn.srv.PacBell.COM) | WANTED...             +
  = Systems Analyst                                 |                       =
  + Operator Services                               |                       +
  = Software Engineering and Maintenance            |                       =
  + Pacific Bell (SRV complex) CA. USA              |                       +
  -+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+-
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: pfaffman@pilot.njin.net (Jay Pfaffman)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Make you go blind? (was: Re: homebrew cop tv)
Date: 6 Jan 93 04:38:56 GMT
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

Excuse me, but how can one produce poison by distilling beer?  It
seems that by distilling all you can get it higher concentrations of
*something* & chances are that it'll be ethanol.

-- 
Jay Pfaffman, Computer Coordinator        pfaffman@des.edu
Dwight-Englewood School, 315 E. Palisade Ave.                      
Englewood, NJ  07631-0489                 201-569-9500
pfaffman@pilot.njin.net if des crashes . . .
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: hangover@blech.com 
Subject: Re: flame off, OK?
Organization: Society for Production of Excellent Wort -- SPEW
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 17:16:12 GMT
Followup-To: rec.humor.brewing.gak.gak.gak


mark@verdix.com (Mark Lundquist) writes:
>Yesterday I posted an article about the unappealing sounds of the
>names "arf" and "gak".
>
>If you have read that article and are getting ready to send me some
>flamage over it, please stop right now and read this carefully:
>
>IT...WAS...A...JOKE !!!

Yeah, c'mon and give the guy a break.  He was only joking.  Like 
anyone is really going to be subliminally influenced by something
as silly as an unappealing username.  We homebrewers have much more 
important things to worry (or not worry) about.
From: mark@verdix.com (Mark Lundquist)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Racking to a secondary
Date: 11 Jan 93 21:03:33 GMT
Article-I.D.: verdix.9516
Organization: Verdix Western Operations, Aloha  OR

In article <jdecarlo.540.726759443@mitre.org> jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo) writes:
>In article <9503@verdix.verdix.com> mark@verdix.com (Mark Lundquist) writes:
 >I've done it.  When it looks like the trub has settled out, or I see the
 >first little spots on the surface (whichever comes first), it's time to rack.

>Sounds interesting.  Now I'll have to try it if I ever get the chance.  So 
 far I have bee "too relaxed" to do that, since I usually pitch in the 
 evening and high krauesen is in full swing when I get up the next morning.

 What kinds of time periods are you usually seeing here between pitching and 
 racking for this approach?


After about 6 hours, it looks like about all the trub has settled out.
 

>I guess it all depends on the recipe, the ingredients, etc.  With a good hot 
 break during the boil and a good cold break during forced chilling, you get 
 a lot of trub in the brewpot.

Yup.

>Some experimenters have gotten so much there 
 and were so careful of leaving it behind, they suffered from the "not enough 
 trub for the yeast" problem in the primary.  All I am saying, I guess, is 
 that good chilling (and this seems to vary, especially when using extract) 
 can get quite a lot of trub out and careful siphoning can result in the 
 majority of the trub that would otherwise settle in the primary being left 
 behind in the brewpot.

If I give the wort a stir so that the trub cones up in the middle, I can get
a lot of trub to stay behind in the pot, but as careful as I am when
siphoning, quite a lot also still ends up in the carboy.  I think I'm going
to try the "choreboy in a hop-bag over the end of the racking tube" method.
Have you ever tried this before?  I guess that would only help with
removing the hot-break material (I'm imagining racking through a
counterflow chiller and out into the carboy here).

--Mark
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: gurley@spectra.com (Jim Gurley)
Subject: Low temperatures
Organization: Spectragraphics Corporation
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 93 20:53:31 GMT

I've got a problem.  My fermentor is still perking away (after quite a bit
longer than I planned).  I'm leaving on a business trip (one week) in a few
days, and the house temperature will drop to the 40s when I leave (and am
no longer putting wood in the stove).

Question #1:  If the fermenter isn't done by the time I leave, will it hurt
it to lower the temperature for a week?  Will the yeast die so that when I
re-prime it when I bottle that nothing happens?

Question #2:  If I luck out and it finishes fermenting before I leave, can
I let the bottled brew cool before it's had time to do it's thing?  Can I
simply warm it back up when I get home and expect things to resume?


Question #3:  Given the choice of where to let it cool off, should it be in
the carboy, the bottle, or NOWHERE!  If the answer is nowhere I guess I'll
have to haul the whole lot to someone's house that will be warm (not very
convenient given my location (on a mountain) and nearest friend (40 miles).
From: mark@verdix.com (Mark Lundquist)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Activated Charcoal (was: Make you go blind.)
Date: 8 Jan 93 18:59:32 GMT
Article-I.D.: verdix.9501
Organization: Verdix Western Operations, Aloha  OR

In article <1993Jan7.191539.1@vaxb.acs.unt.edu> atkinson@vaxb.acs.unt.edu writes:
>
>It is purely a physical attraction that causes the adsorbate to
>attach to the absorbent.
>


Sounds dysfunctional to me.  I bet they don't stay together long.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: kral@hplabsz.hpl.hp.com (Joseph Kral)
Subject: Re: Make you go blind? (was: Re: homebrew cop tv)
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 17:07:20 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories Palo Alto,CA

In article <1993Jan6.123356.2320@eng.ufl.edu> fortner@hal.eng.ufl.edu (Dave Fortner) writes:
>The problem that you have is that distillation can create Isopropyl 
>alcohol if there is any woody type material in the mash. I suspect that
>if you distill a mash which has the grain husks in it, you will get
>the Isopropyl alcohol (IPA). Drinking IPA can cause blindness and/or death.a
>Another name for IPA is Rubbing Alcohol.
>
>Dave Fortner
>Fortner-D@3mail.ksc.nasa.gov
>
>Disclaimer: I AIN'T RESPONSIBLE FOR NOTHIN'
>

I believe you get methanol, not isopropyl.  Methanol is otherwise known as
wood alcohol. FYI, rubbing alcohol is not another name for isopropyl.  Rubbing
alcohol is usually 70%ipa/30%water.  Another name for isopropyl is propanol.

Joe.


Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: hersh@expo.lcs.mit.edu (Jay Hersh)
Subject: Re: Black & Tan +story
Organization: X Consortium, MIT Laboratory for Computer Science
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 19:13:35 GMT

cpalmer@ohstpy.mps.ohio-state.edu writes:

>First of all, i would like to state that the proper B & T should    
>be made with Guiness and Harp Lager- this is because of the Irish
>history of the drink.  these are both brews from Ireland, and
>it is tradition that the Guiness be on top of a lager-Harp, namely.
>It is a common misconception that Bass is the proper mate
>for the Guiness, but this is false for a few reasons;
>it is not irish and not a lager.

This is not my understanding at all!!!
The proper Black & Tan is made with Guinness and Bass!! 
There is a historical reason for this (or so I was told by a
barkeep of Irish ancestry). The British forces that occupied
Ireland until the Irish tossed them out wore uniforms colored
black and tan. Thus the drink mixing a British beer with an Irish
beer appropriately named after the color of the occupiers uniforms.

A mixture of Guiness and Harp is referred to as a half and half.

Now this all may be a lot of hogwash, but that is how it has been told
to me and unless I've been snookered the history of Ireland would tend
to make this seem sensible 

	JaH
--
Hopfen und Malz, Gott erhalts
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing