From: pavlov@niktow.canisius.edu (Greg Pavlov)
Newsgroups: rec.boats
Subject: Re: Bayliner Boats
Date: 14 Aug 92 08:26:10 GMT
Organization: Canisius College, Buffalo NY. 14208

In article <1992Aug10.175839.18556@cs.ubc.ca>, goldberg@cs.ubc.ca (Murray W. Goldberg) writes:
>
>   [ re Bayliners ]
> 
> I have seen a couple articles stating that these boats have thin hulls. This
> seems borne out by the comparatively light weight of their boats. However, I
> have not seen any postings claiming problems as a result of the reduced
> thickness. Is there a disproportionate number of hull failures on 18-20'
> bayliners? Does anyone have a heavily used, older bayliner? Are there other 
> problems attributable to thin hulls?
> 
  Welllll, just a short 3-4 months ago I was defending Bayliners, so perhaps
  I shouldn't say anything now.  But a few notes re my own experiences with
  one of these ( 1986 21' bowrider) may be taken as a "warning" by some.
  Two things before I start:

    1. new ones DO appear to have resolved several of the following short-
       comings;
    2. more than one of the following applies to boats of other manufacturers
       as well.

  Negative points, w/respect to my boat specifically:

    1. the fiberglass is rather thin.  This hasn't caused any real problem/
       danger `til now, and we have ventured out into less-than friendly
       conditions on Lake Erie.  But:

       a. the fiberglass around the consoles is built up.  There is a natural
          tendency on the part of people when they enter the boat to grab on
          to this as something to hold on to.  Well, it flexes a lot - several
          inches ? I dunno, it feels that way.  Don't know how long it will 
          hold up before something gives;

       b. last year, after my first real tow of ANY boat, I was trying to 
          work the boat/trailer into a tight spot between some trees at night,
          in the "country", with no ambient light.  I was moving 0-2 miles
          per hour.  Rubbed the side of the boat against a tree.  No damage
          to the tree.  But the port side of the boat is now dented.  And the
          front panel of the port console was dislocated, as a result, apx.
          1/2 an inch or so, making it difficult to properly open/close a 
          door there now;

       c. the throttle is mounted on a panel on the side of the boat by the
          console.  It has an idiotic design in that it must be moved to a 
          detent position, a button on the handle must be pushed in, and then
          the entire handle has to either be pulled out to achieve a true
          "neutral" point for starting/revving the engine or pushed in to 
          engage the outdrive.  The panel it is attached to is fiberglass and
          thin, so it flexes like crazy when you go through the above gyrat-
          ions.  Should say when you TRY to go thru the above gyrations: almost
          tossed my son out of the boat several times when I thought I was in
          neutral but wasn't really.  Have had to make adjustments to this
          three times since last September: the whole throttle unit goes out
          of wack periodically;

    2. Bayliners use the `ole cheap-carpeting-over-thin-plywood-floor construc-
       tion.  Ours' is flexing.  Probably due mainly to problem (3) below.
       I will NEVER purchase another boat with this "feature" (might make an
       exception for a good aluminum boat, I dunno).  But my prejudice is that
       carpeting in a boat cockpit is a ridiculous concept;

    3. the bilge pump is in the bilge, so all should be right with the world.
       `Xcept that part of the bilge is NOT in the lowest part of the boat
       when it is at rest or when it is on the trailer.  So water gets trapped
       in nooks and crannies all throughout the hull, as far as we can tell.
       It evaporates, so it must rise up, right ? And overhead is that ply-
       wood floor.....  Yes, you can get the water to the bilge pump.  Just
       go on and off plane umpteen times, accelerate, etc, and eventually
       most of it ends up where it should;

    4. the vinyl in my boat has to be the thinnest vinyl produced.  When one
      of the seats developed a tear and I saw how thin it was, I was truly 
      surprised that a), it was possible to make the stuff that thin and 
      b), that it had held up in the boat in as many places as it has.  Vinyl
      is Yet Another Feature that I intend to do without in my next boat.
      I have enough chores to do in my life already without adding on cleaning
      useless vinyl in a boat to the list;

    5. my boat pounds.  It went nuts the other day after I crossed the wake
       of an 18-20 footer at apx. 30 mph.  You gotta slow down for all
       those "big" waves;

    6. we love the windshield design too.  Top of the frame is precisely at
       eye level; couldn't have been placed more perfectly.

  It has a few good/acceptable points.  The power plant is, of necessity,
  pretty standard and reliable: Volvo/Chevy V8.  Most fittings ARE through-
  bolted.  Wiring is generally neat.  The layout of the space is much more
  intelligent, in my opinion, than that of most new runabouts (Wellcraft's
  232 Eclipse being one of the exceptions).  Freeboard is good.  All the
  padding does help when I have a "crew" of kids aboard.  Noise level is
  reasonably well-controlled.  Anybodywannabuyit ?


  greg pavlov
  pavlov@fstrf.org
Newsgroups: rec.boats