HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: billb@geac.com (Bill Bain)
Subject: Re: experiences with Maaco
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 16:29:10 GMT
Distribution: dc
Organization: Geac Computer Corporation

In article <24768@oasys.dt.navy.mil> jeanthea@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Mark Jeantheau) writes:
>Anybody have any experiences, good or bad, with Maaco Autobody? I'm
>considering having my peeling '84 Mustang painted; they quoted me
>$900. That's about what I want to spend, and they give a two-year
>written warranty. I know you don't get a great paint job for $900, but
>it doesn't really have to be great -- I only need it to last a few years
>(car has 132K miles on it).  And I don't want to spend more than $1000.
>
>Any comments?
>

I recently had my car painted by Maaco.  I got a basic external paintjob
plus a touch of body work.  I decided to strip the car as much as possible
myself, and proceeded to remove trim, bumpers, grills, lights, etc.

results:

They did most of the specified bodywork, but missed some.  They filled in
several holes with putty, which was a problem, since these holes were
supposed to be there for the trim.  They painted the door handles and the
door locks.  These were not supposed to get painted (some of which were
either chrome, plastic, or a different color). The masking job left a few
spots of the original paint showing through (which they later painted over
by hand with yet another color).

In the end, I had to take the car in about 6 times to get it cleaned up.

There is still some primer overspray inside the doors, and they are not
able or willing to clean it up.

Conclusion:

I'm reasonably happy with the final results now, but was frustrated at
their incompetence at the time.  I imagine that if the guy who does the
masking had forgoten to mask off the glass on my car, the idiot who sprayed 
it would have painted the windows.

If you end up going there, take in a copy of this, and get the owner to 
sign a document stating that if you have any of the problems listed here,
you'll get the entire job for half price.  Let us know his reaction.

Bill Bain

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ajb8886@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Subject: '89 Escort GT - Computer info needed
Reply-To: ajb8886@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 1992 02:55:37 GMT

Anyone know whether there are replacement eproms for the '89 Escort GT's
(EEC IV) to improve the performance a little?

Also, is anyone familiar with the function of the octane rod on the 
distributor?  I've found that the only gas the engine will run smoothly
on is bottom of the line 87 octane...any higher and it gets buzzy and
picks up a "lurch" from the start, and starts idling fast (about 1250 RPM,
sometimes oscillating up and down a bit).  

I've tried fooling around with the base timing (ie. with the spout connector
plug removed)... seems to run a lot smoother at the low end when I set
the base timing from 10 degrees BTDC to about 12-14 degrees, and the high
end RPM's really smooth out and quiet down.

>any< advice and experiences particular to this car would be welcome.

Alex
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: boyd@ivy.cs.unca.edu (Mark Boyd)
Subject: DX-350 - DX-342 mini review
Organization: University of North Carolina at Asheville
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL3
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 1992 19:35:52 GMT

I went down to my favorite RS store yesterday to try out the small,
portable, SW receivers. I wanted an analog set for two reasons: it is
too hard to browse SW bands on a digital receiver and the digital
circuitry requires too much power. I wanted something that wouldn't
eat batteries so I didn't have to carry an AC adapter around with my
'portable' radio. Specifically I wanted to try the DX-350 and the
DX-342. I bought the DX-350.

In comparing the two receivers (in the RS parking lot at mid day - not
ideal conditions), the 350 was notably more sensitive than the 342.
The 342 that I tried also seemed to have some bugs - sometimes I'd
have to switch it over to FM and then back to SW before it would work
on SW - so perhaps it was a bad example. It sure is a cute little
thing and you can carry it in your shirt pocket (!), but the 350 is
cheaper and worked better for me.

After I got he 350 home, I did some comparisons with my DX-440. The
350 (at $60, 1/4 the volume, and maybe 1/10 the weight of the 440)
seems to be very close to the 440 in sensitivity and has quite decent
selectivity. The RS salesman had claimed that the DX-350 was as 
sensitive as the 440, but I hadn't believed him.

The 440 has an edge on 49M and the 350 seemed a little more sensitive
on 19M and above, but they really are pretty close. The 350 has
limited coverage ( only AMF, FM, some LW, and the SW bands with a bit
above and below - e.g.  it goes down to 15.04 and up to maybe 15.70 or
so on 19M), no filters, and no BFO. The limited coverage is a pain, as
is the lack of a narrow band filter. I rarely use the BFO on my 440,
but I often listen to out of band signals and use the narrow filter
setting. I can add the filtering, but not the missing coverage.

The DX-350 is nice little radio for listening to the BBC and that sort
of thing. It also has one of the most sensitive FM sections (no
stereo) I've seen, better than any other portable radio I've used. And
it even sound half decent ( the 342 is definitely tinny 8^)) on the
built in speaker. I like it.

	Mark


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rakoczynskij@gtephx.UUCP (Jurek Rakoczynski)
Subject: A/C manifold gauges question
Organization: AG Communication Systems, Phoenix, Arizona
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 18:04:04 GMT

I have a question on the scales indicated on A/C gauges.  I tried
looking in everything I could find at home and the library and can't
find the answer so I'm turning to net.wisdom.

In the Hayes auto A/C book I picked up to learn this stuff implies
using the gage pressure scale for reference (or I should say
does not mention using the R12 scale.  I understand using the R12
scale because of it's differant density, but am I missing something?

-- 
Jurek Rakoczynski, AG Communication Systems, POB 52179, Phoenix, AZ. 85072
UUCP: ...!{ncar!noao!enuucp | att}!gtephx!rakoczynskij  Voice: +1 602 581 4867
Inet: gtephx!rakoczynskij@enuucp.eas.asu.edu              Fax: +1 602 582 7111
Inet: /DD.UN=J.RAKOCZYNSKI/O=GTE/PRMD=GTEMAIL/ADMD=TELEMAIL/C=US/@sprint.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Re: emissions: electrical -> Nx or electrical ->Hydrocarbs. ?
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 00:32:26 GMT

|> > I remember reading here a rule of thumb, that Nx was related to electrical
|> > function, and Hydrocarbs related to mixture/carb. Or vice-versa? This is
|> > the question.

Jurek is right about mixture effects on emissions (except that HC will also go up at very lean
mixtures (over 17:1) mainly due to misfiring.  I think what the question was aimed at was the
first thing to go look at if your emissions are off.  High HC generally is the result of poor
ignition function or misfiring.  CO (and NOx) are more directly related to maladjusted or
poor performing fuel-air mixture.  The newer closed-loop systems (generally post-1982) try
to keep the system balanced around 14.7:1.   

So I guess HC is related to ignition(electrical), and CO is related to mixture.  

Another good reference for all things automotive is Bosch's Automotive Handbook
(2nd edition) which is available from Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE), 400 Commonwealth
Drive, Warrendale, PA 15096-0001.  I think it currently runs about $25 for non-SAE members.

regards, Mark  
From: sgm@otter.hpl.hp.com (Steve Methley)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 09:32:04 GMT
Subject: Re: Dirty oil after change?
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories, Bristol, UK.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

neilw@informix.com (Neil Williams) in <1992Sep7.173024.14772@informix.com>:

> My SO recently had her oil changed at a local gas station.  When I went
> with her to pick up her car, I took a look at the dipstick.
> I was very surprised to see that the oil still looked pretty dirty....
> .. but I know that my oil looks clear and brand-new after a change...
> ..for service not performed, or they didn't change the filter...

Well, I do my own oil changes on three cars and each time the oil is clear for
weeks/months afterwards.  I do use a flushing oil every other change (not
additive, real flushing oil) on the two with hydraulic tappets however, but the
other is just as clean.  The cars are all high mileage, one is >120k miles.

I'd be wondering whether they didn't change the filter too....  Try smelling
the oil !  Used oil has a very distinctive 'burnt' odour compared to new oil
IMHO, due to dissolved carbon and petrol.

Hope this helps,

Cheers,
Steve.
From: avk@hafnium.cchem.berkeley.edu (Tony Konashenok)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Dirty oil after change?
Keywords: oil changes
Date: 11 Sep 92 05:58:16 GMT
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
NNTP-Posting-Host: hafnium.cchem.berkeley.edu

In my Mazda, the oil got dirty very soon after change. A couple of weeks later, I
was fixing a leak from my gearbox and removed the engine oil pan instead of
stripping down the tranny. Gee, what a shit was in there! Now, with the clean pan,
the oil stays light much longer.
-- 
Tony Konashenok   avk@hafnium.cchem.berkeley.edu   (510)527-7524 (home)
University of California, Berkeley                 (510)642-5831 (office)

Strauss research group, Latimer Hall, UC Berkeley, Berkeley CA 94720, U.S.A.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: cfaks@ux1.cts.eiu.edu (Alice Sanders)
Subject: Re: Sears Law Suit
Date: Sat, 05 Sep 1992 05:13:32 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Eastern Illinois University

My daughter was recently ripped off by Firestone.  I am going after them.
I have to send them letters from experts plus a letter from my local
mechanic.  They CLAIM they MIGHT make restitution.  We'll see.  I will let
you  know.

Alice

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rudis+@cs.cmu.edu (Rujith S DeSilva)
Subject: Re: What's a good one??? was Re: CLUB Story
Organization: School of Computer Science, Carnegie Mellon
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 02:54:22 GMT

In article <60094@mimsy.umd.edu> jsw@umiacs.umd.edu (Jeff Webber) writes:
>In article <Bu274D.2uy.1@cs.cmu.edu> rudis+@cs.cmu.edu (Rujith S DeSilva)
>(that's me!) writes: 
>>Okay, so you can't reduce the risk of your car being stolen to zero.  Perhaps
>>it's time to take a different tack.  How about increasing the risk taken by
>>the prospective thief in attempting to steal your car?
>
>You can go to jail for harming someone that is trying to steal your car
>or your car stereo.   If the person dies you would probably be charged
>with manslaughter or even murder.

I originally suggested hooking up the alarm system to release tear gas.  A
friend suggested that it should instead release a tranquilizer.  This can't be
considered to harm anyone, can it?

>There are just way too many lawyers in this country.

I agree.  Completely.

Rujith de Silva.
Carnegie Mellon.
From: jonl@rb-csd.SanDiego.NCR.COM (jon.lafrance)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Jeep YJ
Date: 9 Sep 92 20:28:41 GMT
Reply-To: jonl@rb-csd.SanDiego.NCR.COM (jon.lafrance)
Organization: NCR Corporation, Rancho Bernardo

In article <1992Sep8.154855.3151@ultra.com> hayes@ultra.com (John Hayes) writes:
>In <14940@mindlink.bc.ca> David_Cristofoli@mindlink.bc.ca (David Cristofoli) writes:
>
>>I am very interested in purchasing a Jeep YJ soon. I would like some feedback
>>regarding other peoples personal views on this vehicle. I would like the good
>>and the bad.
>
>I purchased a '91 YJ about 1 1/2 years ago.  So far I am VERY pleased with it.
>
>
>JOhn.
>-- 
>John Wm. Hayes 						hayes@ultra.com  
>Ultra Network Technologies				(408)922-0100 x202

How is the ground clearance? I look at some on the lot this weekend and they 
seemed very low. My neighbor with a CJ7 said the YJ has more ground clearance
then the CJ7. Of course I am use to a 68 Bronco with a 6" lift. Other then 
what appeared low clearance I liked the YJ.

+==========================================================================+
| Jon LaFrance       Corporate Customer Services       PM&S E&M San Diego  |
| NCR - 440-2805    (jon.lafrance@sandiego.ncr.com)    FAX  (619) 485-3400 |
From: vbreault@rinhp750.gmr.com (Val Breault)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: SB Chevy valve stem seals
Date: 10 Sep 92 12:42:12 GMT
Organization: General Motors Research Labs
In-reply-to: jjolly@jjolly.b24b.ingr.com's message of 9 Sep 92 16:46:26 GMT

In article <1992Sep9.164626.10227@infonode.ingr.com> jjolly@jjolly.b24b.ingr.com (Jack G. Jolly) writes:

   My 350 smokes upon startup (pulling through the guides).  I intend to
   install some type of seal:

Fun job.  BIG improvement for small effort.  Very satisfying.

   - anyone have experience with "plastic umbrella" vs. "teflon rings" - I
   have someone who can get me teflon seals that will interference fit over
   the guide (no machining), but I've also heard "the teflon jobs wipe off
   too much oil and your valves will go away" ??

No experience with umbrella type.  Never heard the rumor about teflon seals.

   _ I intend to us an air compressor to keep the valves up while doing the
   replacement.  Assuming piston is at TDC (low-comp 8.5:1 motor) should
   I expect problems??

As soon as you begin to fill the cylinder with air, the pressure will
force the piston to the BDC position.  I've never had trouble with 
that technique.  Use some kind of air reservoir between compressor
and cylinder.  You don't want to have to worry about someone tripping
on the electrical cord and dropping a valve into the cylinder.

Sorry for choppy writing.  Better stuff takes more time than I have
right now.

-val-
--

Val Breault - vbreault@gmr.com - N8OEF
General Motors Research and Environmental Staff.
The opinions expressed by the author do not necessarily reflect 
those of the GMRES or the General Motors Corporation.
 

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Re: A/C manifold gauges question
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 17:50:08 GMT

I see your point regards saturated R12 mixture.  See response to Jurek.
I suspect my pressure increases after a quick charge due to enough elevated temperature
R12 being added.   I charge with the system off and its temperature at about 70-80 degrees,
but the R12 being added is at about 100 degrees.

regards,
Mark
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: g_house@goes11.enet.dec.com (Greg House)
Subject: Check Engine light comes on
Reply-To: g_house@goes11.enet.dec.com (Greg House)
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 22:48:29 GMT


The "check engine" light on my '89 Ford Tempo has been coming on 
intermittantly the last few days.  I don't have the owners manual
and my Haynes book on it doesn't say anything about this indicator.

Could someone please tell me the conditions which can cause the 
"Check Engine" light to come on?

Please send e-mail (to g_house@goes11.enet.dec.com), since I don't 
regularly read this newsgroup.

Thanks in advance!
Greg
From: michaeln@hpcvnb.CV.HP.COM (Mike_Nason)
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 92 22:29:00 PDT
Subject: Re: Subaru EA81/EA82 engines
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Corvallis, Oregon
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

   as to your comment about the 85 model. a friend of mine has one. it had
been over heated and they had to put new heads on it. (along with new
timing belts) .   just lately he had to fork over another $430 bucks because 
for some "unknown" reason it happened to break a cam.  (I wonder if the mechanic
From: ihusain@pyramid.COM (Intisar Husain)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Toyota Oil Filters Vs. The Others
Date: 11 Sep 92 17:46:18 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Pyramid Technology Corporation, Mountain View, California

In article <PFZuqB4w165w@toz.buffalo.ny.us>, augy@toz.buffalo.ny.us (Jeffrey Ehlinger) writes:
|> 
|>      Toyata tells me that only genuine Toyata Oil filters have a 
|> mechanism inside them that preventsall the oil from draining into the oil 
|> pan. This they claim, helps reduce engine wear on start-ups. I was 
|> thinking of switching over to Toyota Filters (1986 Chevy Nova) but my car 
|> has been running smoothly for 126k on Group 7 Filters.
|>      Has anybody used both, and notice a Diffrence. (I have treated the 
|> engine w/ Slick 50 at 100k). How does the mechanism work in the filter?
|> 
I apologize in advance for not answering your question, rather asking
a question. I have a maxima with 100K miles on it, should I go for 
Slick 50? What are cos and pros for slick 50?

As far as oil filters are concern, I always use nissan filters, 
and feel more comfortable, that I am treating my car according
to manufacturer's specifications.

Any more ideas.
 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: wpcallah@rwasic17.aud.alcatel.com (William Paul Callahan)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: emissions: electrical -> Nx or electrical ->Hydrocarbs. ?
Date: 8 Sep 92 19:40:32 GMT



I remember reading here a rule of thumb, that Nx was related to electrical
function, and Hydrocarbs related to mixture/carb. Or vice-versa? This is
the question.

p.s. - I'd guess some of this is in the server (archive@cabot.balltown.cma.com)
but I tried to 'Index Autos.Tech' in all the ways I can think of, and with
all the various Reply-To(s) as well.  I got silence....  Could some one
send me a copy of a mail header which does work; say an index command?
(I figure I would have to change the content.... But perhaps I am missing
something)

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I can be reached at wpcallah@rwasic17.aud.alcatel.com, (or maybe not, as I can 
not get the server to send me anything back), so you might have to respond to 
this newsgroup...


Thanks, Paul
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: RZAA80@email.sps.mot.com (Jim Chott)
Subject: Re: LEaf springs
Organization: Motorola SPS
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 19:51:26 GMT

In article <BuBI34.8Lp@news.cso.uiuc.edu>, dak@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu (David Kardelis- I am the NRA) writes:
> 
> 	Are replacing Leaf springs a do it yourself job or does it
> require special tools. The leaf springs on my Jeep look shot. 
> They are straight ------ as opposed to \____/. Anyway to check this 
> for sure? Also what is an average price for getting springs rebent?
> JC Whitneys has 4 new springs for about $350 so if it is a small difference
> in price I'd rather go new.
> 						dave

I recently replaced the leaf springs on my Toyota pickup.  Not too bad of a
job, took about 5 hours with a little help from a friend.  That price doesn't
sound too bad.  You might try a four wheel drive magazine for more sources.
However, some springs have a reverse arch /----\ like those on most american
pickups (front), so you can't tell the spring condition by the arch.  A dealer
can probably tell you the proper ride height, which should tell you if your
springs are good.  Also, not many special tools were required for my springs
except for a torque wrench, and adequate jack stand height.

Jim
From: pmarcos@adobe.com (Paul Marcos)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: MR2 Starter problem -> Where is it?
Date: 8 Sep 92 15:48:21 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Organization: Adobe Systems, Inc.

The starter on my 1987 Toyota MR2 went out a couple weeks back.  So I
decide, "hey this is a good time to pretend I know something about a car
and fix it myself!"  So I get a shop manual for it and it says to take of
the lead and unscrew these two bolts and take the thing out.  OK, no
problem.  Whoops!  A problem.  Can anybody describe to me WHERE the starter
motor is on the MR2?  I can't find it.  Unfortunately I don't have adequate
jacks for me to be able to work fully under the car yet so if it's really
under there, I'm out of luck for now.

Second question:  Can anybody recommend a mechanic in the South SF Bay area
to do this for me?  I don't have a whole lot of cash but need to get it
running.  

I knew I shouldn't have given up motorcycles!

Thanks for any help to my stupid problem!

Paul
From: shadow@pro-haven.cts.com (Blaine Hufnagle)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: what larges vehicles use for brakes (was: disk brakes again)
Date: 11 Sep 92 04:26:46 GMT
Organization: ProLine [pro-haven] - Pariahs' Haven BBS, 409/693-8262, 9600-300

In <1992Sep11.020550.28190@julian.uwo.ca>

% -> what do planes, trains, semi-trucks (ie MAC trucks/16 wheelers/tractor-
%    trailers) use for brakes?

Planes use Disk brakes. ( I think.)  pretty damn big disks. :)

Normal freight trains use pseudo-drum brakes, as the shoes apply directly
against the rolling surface.  Look at a freight car some time when you are
sitting at a RR crossing some time.

Amtrak trains use very  L A R G E  disk brakes.  (Somewhere in the
neighboorhood of about 30 inchers.)

Semi trucks and busses use hefty drum brakes.  The drums usually run about 20
inches in diameter, with the swept area being about 7 inches wide.  The shoes
are H U G E.  The brakes are actuated by air pressure via an "S"-cam.  They
can usually stop said vehicle in nothing flat.  The problem with them is that
they lock up at the drop of a hat.  If the driver can keep the wheels
unlocked, in effective braking, most large vehicles like that can stop within
250-300 feet.  And that's stopping anywhere from 36,000 lbs to 80,000 lbs.

-blaine

-blaine   a.k.a. The Midnight Shadow    |  1979 Chevy Urban Assault Vehicle
Texas Aggie Bus Driver and proud of it! |  1982 Thomas Transit Liner bus
Another Bodybuilder from HELL!!         |  1982 Yamaha Vision   DoD #7192
        "Mine is not to wonder why, Mine is but to look and cry....."

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dbowman@warp (Don A. Bowman)
Subject: Re: Rear wheel wobble on a Corolla
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 15:44:44 GMT

verzani@math.washington.edu (John Verzani) writes:
: Hello all,
: 
: I have a problem I'm hoping someone can help me with. On my '80
: Toyota Corolla my right rear wheel has a side to side wobble when I
: drive. I changed the tire with my spare and had the same problem, leading
: me to suspect my axle is bent. Is this likely? If my axle is bent is 
: there a way to repair it, or will replacement be necessary? How much 
: will something like this cost? Should I be worried about driving the
: car in this condition?  Is this a job I can do, or am I better off
: with an experienced mechanic?
: 
: The wobble is pronounced when viewed, but I can't detect it when I'm
: driving. The bolts all feel secure, so I don't suspect those.
: 
: Feel free to e-mail me or post. All help is appreciated.
: 
: John Verzani
: verzani@math.washington.edu
: 

Have you checked the rear-wheel bearings lately? (They are just inside the
hub-cover of the drum).


-- 
Don Bowman                (519) 744-6154     dbowman@zeus.uwaterloo.ca
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: john_palkovic@ssc.gov (John Palkovic)
Subject: halfshaft removal on '86 celica
Organization: Medium Energy Booster RF, SSCL
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1992 01:33:09 GMT

I am trying to remove the passenger side half-shaft on my '86
celica (3s-GE motor, S53 5 spd transaxle). I have the outboard end
of the halfshaft disengaged from the steering knuckle. I'll be
damned if the halfshaft is coming out, though! My Chilton's says
to "loosen the center driveshaft stopper bolt." I can see no
stopper bolt to loosen, believe me, I have looked.  Any help would
be appreciated.

Adios,

-John

--
john_palkovic@ssc.gov
The SSC, the DOE, and the URA are not my mother.
From: ggg@hpsad.sad.hp.com (Gary Goodlund)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Anybody know how to remove a windshield?
Date: 4 Sep 92 20:09:00 GMT
Organization: HP Signal Analysis Division - Rohnert Park, CA


                

            "IMHO"=In My Humble Opinion