HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: 2 speed powerglides
Date: Wed, 06 Jan 93 21:35:56 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Wednesday, Jan 06 16:35:52
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-> FYI:  2 speed powerglides were also used in 60-69 corvair and in
-> 61-63 pontiac tempest/lemans.  in both cases the PG was in between
-> the rear wheels (a transaxle), but on the corvair the engine was
-> bolted directly on (rear engine) while the pontiac had a front
-> engine.  i had a 63 lemans once, with a 195 cid slant 4 (that's half
-> a bank of a 389 v-8) with a

 Hey, you forgot the flexible fiberglass driveshaft.  Look, Ma!  No
U-joints!
                                                                                                                 

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Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Watts linkage, etc.
Date: Thu, 07 Jan 93 21:32:31 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Thursday, Jan 07 16:32:28
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 Somebody had asked about Watts linkage sources etc.; I remembered a Car
Craft issue which gee, whizzed about a '68 Mustang which had a custom 
rear suspension setup. I brought the article in, FWIW.

 The Watts setup looks to have a custom mount welded to the butt of the 9"
Ford rear, around 2 o'clock position and near the rim (about 1" in). The
arms and the pivot piece have unequal lengths, the arms being adjustable.
The mounting points to the frame are up on the frame arch over the axle.
The article intimates that this work was done by Mike Ruth's Pro Chassis Shop
in Hacienda, CA; however the linkage does not look very hard to do if you're
any good at welding. If you want to look at the pictures try rounding up the
September '92 issue. This guy also added a custom torque arm that runs up
the driveshaft tunnel; a good looking setup all in all.

 Just out of curiosity, why not a Panhard setup? A bit simpler, and the 
Watts looks like similar, if not more, weight and complexity. I've seen
add-yer-own Panhard kits in either the Jeg's or Summit catalog (can't
remember which) for fairly cheap (although probably overpriced for two
stampings, some rod ends, a tube steel length and instructions).

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Posted by: emory!mlb.semi.harris.com!jws (James W. Swonger)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Mo Compression
Date: Sat, 09 Jan 93 00:19:14 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Friday, Jan 08 19:19:05
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->         I wonder why Detroit and Bowling Green can't get together
-> with
->         Big Oil and the EPA and start producing high compression
-> engines
->         again?

 By Bowling Green you mean the Corvette?  It's up to 10.25:1, which is
higher than it's been in a long time.  Of course, Jay's is *always*
showing some spark retard from the knock sensor, even on 92 octane fuel.
                                                             

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Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: iron to aluminum glide conversion
Date: Tue, 05 Jan 93 10:28:02 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Tuesday, Jan 05 05:27:45
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looper@cco.caltech.edu (Mark D. Looper) writes:

>hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:

>> That reminds me.  When did Chevrolet drop the straddle mount
>>configuration?

>The side engine mounts were introduced in '58.

>> The front bolt bosses came back in '68 on the 350 so they could mount
>>the power steering and stuff more easily, so there were only a few years
>>there without the front bosses.





>> I think the mounting holes on the front of the cylinder heads also
>>appeared in '68.  (?)

>The long water pump came out in '69 on most passenger cars; its belt
>configuration allowed the alternator to be mounted forward of the head
>instead of over the valve cover.  Presumably, the bolt holes necessary
>for the alternator bracket were introduced at the same time.

>I haven't found any info about the timing of the switch from bellhousing
>to block for the starter mounts; all my references say "some early blocks"
>had the bellhousing mount, or something equally unspecific.

Yes, and some early blocks were drilled for a two-bolt type starter.
These were used with turboglide trans *what a fine piece that was*
the problem is that the inner bolt hole is 1/2 a-bolt-hole out of
place to fit ANY newer starter. Just ask me how I know.

Jim Davies

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Posted by: emory!fraser.sfu.ca!jimd (Jim Davies)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: building your own intake....
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 93 19:07:55 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Tuesday, Jan 12 14:07:52
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-> I noticed that the *hot* set-up for fuel injection on top alcohol
-> dragsters has been to take your favorite dual-quad tunnel ram, tap
-> the injectors into it above the 'head, and use one of those
-> "bug-catcher" things on top for air metering.

 I've seen that.  On the other manipulator, I have an engine for which
only two intakes are available (351X Ford).  Neither are tunnel rams.
Assuming one was available, it'd cost money.  I can cast my own for
free, drawfile it flat where necessary, and make the throttle bodies on
my lathe.  Sure would save a lot of money.  <grin>
                                                                                                         

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Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: humvee
Date: Fri, 08 Jan 93 06:29:00 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Friday, Jan 08 01:28:52
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hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:


>I am considering a serious 4 wheel drive vehicle.
>I got some literature from AM General about the Humvee aka Hummer.

...

>It also has a GM 3L80 3 speed automatic with a max input torque of 451 ft-lbs.
>The gears are 2.48, 1.48, and 1.

I crawled under a Hummer at the Long Beach Auto Show; the pan on the tranny
looks just like the one on my TH400, and the gears you quote are the same, so I
guess 3L80 is just a fancy name for Ol' Reliable.

>It seems like a nice vehicle other than the price...

>Are there other suitable 4 wheel drive vehicles...
>...cheap would be nice.

Yeah--the sticker was $50,000, with options costing up to $10,000 extra!
I gather that they aren't going after the same market for which the post-WWII
civilian Jeep was made...

I have to wonder about a "Wide Load" problem--that thing is BROAD IN THE BEAM!

--Mark Looper
(fat ol' '70 smallblock Caprice, vaporware '64 Chevelle)

----------
Posted by: emory!cco.caltech.edu!looper (Mark D. Looper)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: 2 speed powerglides
Date: Tue, 05 Jan 93 19:47:04 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Tuesday, Jan 05 14:47:00
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   I do not know too much about powerglides, but I would like to know how
many variations there are.  As I understand it, there are iron and 
aluminum cases, and V6 and V8 first gears.  Thats a total of 4 variations
I know.  Anything more?

	 Frank Evan Perdicaro 				Xyvision Color Systems
      Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.		101 Edgewater Drive
   inhouse: frank@marvin, x5572				Wakefield MA
outhouse: frank@contex.com, 617-245-4100x5572		018801285

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Posted by: emory!marvin.contex.com!frank (Frank Perdicaro)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: RE: 351C trivia...
Date: Tue, 05 Jan 93 20:04:33 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Tuesday, Jan 05 15:04:29
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In article <qlsrpjl@dixie.com>, you write...
> 
>-> True, it's only running a quarter mile at a time, but that's going to
>-> be me main application, so I'm not too worried about cylinder wall
>-> thickness.
> 
> Cylinder wall distortion can lose a lot of power.  The Cleveland is
>infamous for that problem.

I don't see where you'll lose a lot of power, unless the walls flex *inward*.
Flexing outward means more blow-by, but how much are we talking about?
> 
> By the way, I was reading a 1940 edition of a 1912 automotive guide
>this morning.  There was a long section on cylinder boring, including
>interesting machines that would bore the block while it was in the car.
>Then it started talking about how the cylinder walls will flex slightly
>under the boring bar, which doesn't hurt anything if you're boring, say,
>a piece of pipe, but engine blocks commonly have upper and lower water
>jacket decks, head bolt bosses, siamesed cylinders, etc.  They explained
>how these areas didn't "spring", thereby causing low spots as the bar
>passed.  The book then talked about reaming cylinders to size, which
>they claimed had the same problem.  (the thought of a 4 inch diameter
>reamer is kinda interesting...)  They felt the optimum solution was
>*grinding* the cylinders to size.  Sounds quite reasonable, and I think
>they have a point... except I'm not aware of any place currently selling
>a cylinder grinder.  (Anyone?)

the stuff done in the early 1900's is pretty amazing - multivalve heads 
(most people think the Japanese developed them.  Hah!) etc.
> 
> 
>-> If it blows up, I'll go for the 351 SVO - which sells for $665 at
>-> Summit (0.060 over block.  The other ones are about twice that
>-> price).  Thinking about the amount of money I've sunk into this
>-> project over the years, I wish I'd just done that to begine with -
>-> the 4 bolt mains would be kind of nice...
> 
> Yes, but a few years ago those blocks were $1800, not $665.  As for the
>mains - have you spun any bearings with the two bolt block?

No, haven't spun bearings.  Haven't revved to 7,000+ yet, either.  Have you
had a cylinder *poof* due to being too thin?  (OK, I'm being sarcastic :))
>                                                               
> 
>----------
>Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)

----------
Posted by: emory!MARS.LERC.NASA.GOV!EDWLT12
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: screw in plugs
Date: Thu, 07 Jan 93 19:24:58 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Thursday, Jan 07 14:24:52
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Ford sells the replacement plugs for 302BOSS and other miscellaneous
engines. DOn't have the part number handy, but I can get it in the morning
if you want. They are just large pipe plugs and you might be able to get
some at your local industrial plumbing shop. I can't find a tap, period.
I concur whole-heartedly with your observation about getting the hole tapped!

Millam

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Posted by: emory!naucse.cse.nau.edu!met (Millam Tackitt)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: Watts linkage, etc.
Date: Fri, 08 Jan 93 20:29:07 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Friday, Jan 08 15:29:04
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 The '68 Mustang with the Watts linkage I mentioned is stated to be driven
mainly on the street and in SCCA Solo-II competitions - it's not a roundy-
round car apparently. The unequal lengths probably are there because they
didn't want to weld to the center of the Ford rear end bulb - but no point
in my second-guessing it.

----------
Posted by: emory!mlb.semi.harris.com!jws (James W. Swonger)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: How To Test An Oxygen Sensor
Date: Thu, 07 Jan 93 23:22:30 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Thursday, Jan 07 18:22:15
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 I picked up a leaflet called TOMCO Tips at the auto parts store today; Issue
1, Volume 1. It has a short article on the subject which I'll summarize at
nearly full length (copyright? what copyright?).

 The tools you need are a propane torch, pliers or vise grips and a good DVM
(or maybe an extra extra good VOM?). Hook the + probe to the pigtail (or
the gray lead of a 3-wire) and put the (-) probe and the shield of the 
sensor together in the jaws of the vise-grips so they're held in contact.

 Heat the sensor tip with the torch to a cherry red, letting the flame get
inside the sensor tip. A reading above 600mV on the meter and a reading
which reacts quickly if you move the flame around indicate a good sensor.


 In another place in the leaflet, it says that the two most common causes
of failure are lead poisoning (they ignored silicone) and carbon buildup.
I think that the latter, and maybe the former, could possibly be removed
with a slightly oxidizing flame from an acetylene torch if you were
(a) careful and (b) too damn cheap to just go buy a clean one. I'm all
set on (b); we'll see about (a). I've got a freebie 3-wire from little bro
that had to be replaced on account of sluggishness; I'll try the test
above before-n-after.

[I would NOT recommend heating the sensor that hot.  That kind of heat
causes failure due to the platinum sintering into larger chunks that 
don't work so well according to my reference material on the topic.
The sensor should light off at about 300 deg C and be at near full output
near 600 deg C.  That's at most a dull red.  Since the mixture inside
the outer cone of the flame is rich in CO, the sensor should go near
1 volt.  This voltage is dependent on temperature.  The speed of the
response is important parameter.  I've built a rig in which I can explode
a small (~15 cc) quantity of propane/air and direct the combustion 
products down a tube containing the sensor.  I've observed a time constant
on my scope of less than 50 ms.  I'm not sure how much of that is the 
time constant of the combustion products transport.  These things are FAST.
JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!mlb.semi.harris.com!jws (James W. Swonger)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: iron to aluminum glide conversion
Date: Fri, 08 Jan 93 21:04:22 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Friday, Jan 08 16:04:18
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hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:

> That reminds me.  When did Chevrolet drop the straddle mount
>configuration?

The side engine mounts were introduced in '58.

> The front bolt bosses came back in '68 on the 350 so they could mount
>the power steering and stuff more easily, so there were only a few years
>there without the front bosses.

John Michelsen, in "Chevy Performance" (Brea, CA: S-A Design Books, 1981)
says that "until the mid-'70's the blocks retained the front mounting holes,
but they are usually left undrilled on late-model engines".

> I think the mounting holes on the front of the cylinder heads also
>appeared in '68.  (?)

The long water pump came out in '69 on most passenger cars; its belt
configuration allowed the alternator to be mounted forward of the head
instead of over the valve cover.  Presumably, the bolt holes necessary
for the alternator bracket were introduced at the same time.

I haven't found any info about the timing of the switch from bellhousing
to block for the starter mounts; all my references say "some early blocks"
had the bellhousing mount, or something equally unspecific.

--Mark Looper
(fat ol' smallblock '70 Caprice, vaporware '64 Chevelle)

----------
Posted by: emory!cco.caltech.edu!looper (Mark D. Looper)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: Spelling and GNs
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 93 02:48:58 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Monday, Jan 11 21:48:45
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>          [  Was the tranny a TH200? I can't imagine how it held up to such 
>          torque.  It seemed more like a TH400 with an overdrive.]
>
>Tranny is the TH200-4R.  I still use the original stock tranny, but the lockout
>clutch in the converter is slipping in 3rd gear under WOT.  The race chips lock
>the converter up @ ~75mph ... something I'm sure was never designed for! 
>Amazing that it has lasted for 38,000 miles and 375+ documented 1/4 mile
>passes.  Anyway, my winter project is to replace the converter and have the
>tranny freshened up.  I hope that will bring my mph back up about 1-2 mph and
>drop 0.1-0.15 from the E.T.  I'm hoping for solid 11.90s with the new tranny
>and the other tuning changes I've made this winter.

>-- Ken Mosher
>-- Buick Grand National:  A *BOOST* of Buick Performance!
>
>
>----------
>Posted by: "KEN MOSHER" <emory!imd.sterling.com!KEN_MOSHER>
> 

According to ATR, one of the big differences between their chips and
Kenne-Bells
is that their chip for cars with 9" converters does not lock it up, letting
it
live much longer.  I can't remember what their street chip does
(embarassing to
admit since my only car is an '86 T-Type with an ATR Stage 5 kit).

Carl Ijames     ijames@helix.nih.gov

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Posted by: emory!helix.nih.gov!ijames
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: RE: Chevy Exaust Manifold Ques.
Date: Mon, 04 Jan 93 17:10:57 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Monday, Jan 04 12:10:51
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	Let me give you more info on the engine.

	It came out of a 1978 blazer. The dipstick is on the driver's side,
and it exits just below the head.

	I went to the junkyard again and found that their are two types of 
manifolds used in GM cars with small block Chevys. All the Monte Carlos and
some of the Caprices had the very restrictive type. Its basically a tube 
that runs across the exaust ports horizontally, making connection to each
port along the way. It then exits to the exaust system at an angle at the rear 
cylinder. With this manifold there is absolutely no way a dipstick tube will
fit around the manifold. Believe me Iv'e tried.

	The other type had individual tubes that run from each port down to
a horizontal collector tube. The collector then exits to the exaust system. The
problem is where it exits. On this type it exits about 3" lower than the more
restrictive type.

	It looks like I'll have to use headers or the later type manifolds. In
either case I'll be going to the local muffler shop for some custom work.

	Thanks for all the responses.

	New comments are certainly still welcome.

	Thanks

	Pete

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Posted by: emory!ll.mit.edu!psanders (Peter Sanders)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Early 60s GM Body
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 93 00:36:45 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Monday, Jan 11 19:36:41
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          You want an early to mid sixties GM body, but the Nova/Chevy II 
          are too small.  You don't like the 65 Chevelle?  Hmm.. 
          
          Well, how about a 63-65 Impala SS?  Early sixties Impalas came 
          with everything from a 283 to the 409.  I left my History of the 
          Chevy SS book at home.  I need to bring it in, and you just gave 
          me an excuse. :-)
          
          Regards,
          Eric Webb

----------
Posted by: ERIC WEBB 919-541-7896 <emory!epamail.epa.gov!WEBB.ERIC>
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: Engines of Yore #5
Date: Sat, 09 Jan 93 04:53:18 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Friday, Jan 08 23:52:58
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-> Music to my ears....  This is the engine I've been working with for
-> awhile now.  Its just too cool of an engine to swap it out for a
-> modern V-8.  Unfortunatly, I've had to learn to accept lower HP
-> potential but its still worth doing.

 Serendipity strikes again!  I've always wanted to tear into some of
those older engines and see what makes 'em tick.


-> I didn't get a chance to check this last night but there seems to be
-> some improvements in this engine over my '36.  I don't think my '36
-> has this many main bearings.  I'll have to look for a balancer; I've
-> never noticed one before but I have'nt split it either.  The engine
-> is incredibly smooth running (kind of reminds me of an airplane
-> engine) so I am a little surprised that it would need a balancer.

 The book didn't actually say what year the engine they showed was, but
it has to be before 1943, since that's when it was printed.  It
definitely has that many bearings; there are two cutaways, the old timey
kind where they airbrush over photographs, it looks like.  The
"balancer" is probably what the Brits call a "damper", the engine should
be in balance to start with, but they probably added the damper to
control harmonics with that long crank.  Some older engines also used
what was called a "pendulous damper", which was a bobweight that swung
off one of the counterweights.


-> The '36 uses a belt to drive the generator.  I kind of appreciate
-> this since it will be load easier to replace it with a modern
-> alternator.

 Hmm.  How about the water pump drive?  The stuff I have shows they were
pretty proud of the direct-drive generator; must've been a later
addition.


-> Must be another improvement or perhaps something for the larger
-> sedans. My special had a standard 2 barrel with an oil bath air
-> filter.

 This is *definitely* an updraft.  Hmm... the general trend was away
from updrafts and toward downdrafts.  Buick evidently went the other
way.  This is kinda weird.


-> Anyway, thanks for the post!  If anyone out there knows of hop up
-> tricks for these old motors I'd certainly be glad to hear them.

 You're welcome!  I'd appreciate any comments you have from working with
the actual engine.  Looks like a nice layout.

 I'd clean out the ports a bit, give it a modern three angle valve job,
see about converting to a full-flow filter system, talk to Isky or Crane
about regrinding the cam, and whatever you can do for intake and
exhaust.
                       

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod