HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: bdl@cruiser.uucp (Bob Lombard)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: SUBARU 4WD LOCK-UP
Date: Wed, 07 Oct 92 20:47:53 PDT
Distribution: usa
Organization: what? me organized? no way!

peterson@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Rodney Peterson) writes:

> I HAVE AN '87 SUBARU THAT HAS 4 WHEEL DRIVE.  RECENTLY
> THE 4WD HAS BECOME EXTREMELY!!! DIFFICULT TO DISENGAGE.
> IT ENGAGES READILY AND EASILY BUT IS A REAL BEAR TO GET
> OUT.

  Try backing up a little when you want to disengage the
  4wd.  Works for me on my landcruiser..

------------------------------------------------------------------
* Bob Lombard (bdl@cruiser.uucp)         418 Village Center Dr.  *
*                                        Encinitas, Ca. 92024    *
* -Too many toys, Not enough time....                            *
------------------------------------------------------------------
From: andrew@airs.com (Andrew Evans)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Volvo 245 Turbo problems
Keywords: starting woes
Date: 9 Oct 92 14:35:01 GMT

delphys@ocean.cc.mcgill.ca (David Holmes) writes:

>When trying to start the car cold once has to crank it over
>and then "catch it" with the throttle to get it started.  If
>it starts you then have to nurse it for a minute or two.  If
>it doesn't catch it'll then take 4-5 more episodes of this to
>get it to the point where it will consider starting.

I'm pretty sure this car uses the Bosch Continuous Injection System
(CIS).  This sounds like a classic air leak problem, where air is
getting into the induction system after the air flow sensor plate/fuel
distributor, but ahead of the throttle body.  The mechanic may have
left a vacuum hose disconnected somewhere, or didn't quite get things
put back together in an airtight way.  This causes leaning of the fuel
mixture, since the airflow sensor is only proportioning fuel to the
amount of air coming past it from the air cleaner, and additional air
after that stage in the form of leaks doesn't get additional fuel to
account for it.
-- 
Andrew Evans (andrew@airs.com) - Infinity Development Systems - Waltham, MA
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 10:14:41 EDT
From: Karl Nordstrom <KXN2@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: DOHC on a V8 possible?

johnson@wrs.com (David Johnson) says:

>Now, the vette's susp. geom. certainly has some shortcomings but
>if you take the "area under the curve" the vettes comes out the winner,

What shortcomings are you referring too?  I thought the '84 and later
Vette was supposed to have a great suspension.
From: avk@hafnium.cchem.berkeley.edu (Tony Konashenok)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: electronic rustproofing.
Date: 9 Oct 1992 22:07:31 GMT
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: hafnium.cchem.berkeley.edu

Yes, this method - cathode protection - is absolutely safe, legal and convenient.
It has been used in vessels (esp. tankers) for many years. In a car, the most
practical way is to screw magnesium bolts into unused holes, like ones for a
trailer hitch, or, if you don't have them, to put magnesium washers under bolts
you can easily remove, like those holding the bumper brackets. Once in a while
take the ohmmeter and check the resistance between magnesium and body; it should
be as low as possible, preferably < 1 ohm. If it is higher, remove it, sand and
reinstall. Generally, the method works better if the car is initially new or
rustless. Otherwise, the resistance between different body parts is high enough
to make your protection inefficient. Check your car's nose-to-tail resistance
to get an idea. The higher it is, the more points of cathode protection you need.
Some cars may have some body parts insulated from the rest of the body. These
parts need magnesium of their own.
-- 
Tony Konashenok   avk@hafnium.cchem.berkeley.edu   (510)527-7524 (home)
University of California, Berkeley                 (510)642-5831 (office)

Strauss research group, Latimer Hall, UC Berkeley, Berkeley CA 94720, U.S.A.
From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Need Help Diagnosing Soft Brake Pedal
Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1992 00:05:35 -0500

 GH> Since they are self-adjusting brakes (1979 Honda), I tried to adjust 
 GH> them by  
 GH> backing up and firmly applying the brakes.  Immediately after doing 
 GH> this the  
 GH> brake pedal feels especially firm, but soon gets softer.

Sounds like maybe the adjusters are slipping. I am not familiar with the Honda
mechanism; but if they copied it from Mercedes, possibly you need new adjuster
friction washers, or shims under the adjuster springs to increase the tension.




Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ems@michael.apple.com (E. Michael Smith)
Subject: Re: F350 vs F250 front springs.  Interchangable?
Organization: Apple Computer Inc, Cupertino, CA
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 23:40:45 GMT

In article <BvrJBA.C5q@cup.hp.com> dhepner@cup.hp.com (Dan Hepner) writes:
>Subject: F350 vs F250 front springs.  Interchangable?
>
>>Synopsis:  Are F350 and F250 springs the same 'size' and interchangeble?
>
>Synopsis: if this were a Dodge, they would be, but removing leaves may
>do the job.

The Fords use a strange front spring that consists of exactly TWO
leaves of the same size ...  You kinda have to change the whole
thing ...

>The GVWR was clearly marked on the vehicle at time of sale, on the 
>tag inside the door.  10k+ is maximum, ~8.5k is medium, and >= 8k 
>is low.  The junkyard truck can be checked in this manner.

Good Point!  I'll take a look for them.

>Reducing the spring strength is typically simply removing one or more
>of the leaves. 

I wish it were that simple on the Fords.  Leaves can only be removed
on the rear springs...

-- 

E. Michael Smith  ems@apple.COM

'Whatever you can do, or dream you can, begin it.  Boldness has
 genius, power and magic in it.'  -  Goethe

I am not responsible nor is anyone else.  Everything is disclaimed.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: "richard illes" <richard.illes@canrem.com>
Subject: radials on '60s era cars?
Reply-To: "richard illes" <richard.illes@canrem.com>
Organization: Canada Remote Systems
Distribution: rec
Date: 12 Oct 92 17:16:34 EST

-> improved like a zillion percent, and now he's wondering if he can get
-> a set of big meats in radial. Anybody know if such animals exist? And

Try BFGoodrich radial T/A's.. they come in many sizes, included really
big ones.. and I've seen many older cars using them.
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
From: Steve.Kaess@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Steve Kaess)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: BMW Oil Change Light
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1992 15:20:40 -0500

 > The car is a 1985 BMW 635csi.  The oil change light on the
 > instrument panel
 > is on.  How do I make it go out after I change the oil
 > myself?  Please be
 > specific.
 >
 > Thank you very much.
 >
1-go to your local friendly BMW dealer and buy a special tool that 
sends the proper signal to the computer to reset the light
2-read the ads in the back of car mags--have seen the tool in there 
for like 60 bucks
3-go to the BMW place at closing time and corner a tech.  Ask him 
to turn it out.  Give him a six pack of fine imported beer or 5 bucks.



From: michaeln@hpcvnb.CV.HP.COM (Mike_Nason)
Date: Sat, 10 Oct 92 00:38:15 PDT
Subject: Re: SUBARU 4WD LOCK-UP
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Corvallis, Oregon
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

     From your discription the dealer could be very right. 
  
    Now for something that will help you. When you go to dis-ingage the 
4 wheel drive, stop and back-up slowly. The bind created from the difference
in the circumference of the tires puts a bind in the gears. By backing up
it unloads the bind. You usually don't have to back up to far. Usually 
20 to 30 feet should be enough.  The bind gets unloaded going along a slick
road or dirt road every time you lose enough traction to let a tire slip. 
Sometimes if just backing up doesn't do it, get on a piece of road thats 
slick enough to spin the tires on but not get stuck on. Nail the throatle
to spin up the tires and then try disingaging the 4x4. 
   I've don't this on Fords, Chevy's, and Jeeps. Works for me. 
           Good Luck. Mike Nason
From: andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Weak windshield-wiper motor...
Date: 16 Oct 92 15:35:37 GMT
Organization: Brandeis University

In article <11125@sun13.scri.fsu.edu> nall@sun8.scri.fsu.edu (John Nall) writes:
>My windshield wiper has three speeds (intermitent, slow, and fast).
>It works only on fast.  Even then, it works only when there is
>no friction.  Now this is not so bad, because when it is raining,
>there is no friction, and it works ok.  So I can live with it.  But
>I'd like to fix it.
>
>Thinking about it, it seems to me that either (a) the voltage at the
>motor itself is low, or (b) the motor is "weak".  (I don't have the
>slightest idea whether or not there is such a thing as a "weak"
>motor, by the way).  I'm going to check the voltage (when I get home),
>but since I'm ready to initiate that particular project, thought I
>would see if anyone has any thoughts.
>
>John W. Nall              | Supercomputer Computations Research Institute

At first I thought you'd said "MGB" in which case I know the exact
problem.  However, the intermittent position means that it couldn't
possibly be, and so I have only another suggestion, not an answer.

There is a lot of linkage in a windshield wiper system.  Make sure
that all of it is well lubricated.  (disconnect motor, lift arms and
try linkage by hand - little or no friction should result)

-andy
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks)
Subject: Re: paint code help needed
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC
Distribution: rec
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 17:33:37 GMT

In article <199212.4171.21216@dosgate> "mike knox" <mike.knox@canrem.com> writes:
>Hi:
> 
>I'm trying to located the paint code number for my vehicle so that I
>can order some touch-up paint, but can't seem to find the number!
> 
>The vehicle is a 1989 GMC S15 Jimmy.
> 
>I've looked in the door jams, under the hood, against the firewall and
>in the glove box. All no good. The only thing that looks close is a sticker
>in the glove box that is supposed to be option codes or something. It's
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
This is what you're looking for. Just ask your friendly neighborhood GMC
dealer to help you decipher it. Most of them are option codes.

>just a *lot* of 4 or 5 digit numbers without explanation.
> 
>Does anybody know where the paint codes are located, and what type of a
>number I should be looking for? It's a two-tone grey and blue color, and

 
Ted Brooks
 ______________________________________________________________________
| Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are my own, and do not reflect    |
| those of my employer. Advice is free, but you get what you pay for.  |
|                               ________                               |
|                         _____|  1955  |_______                       |
|                        /      Chevrolet      /                       |
|                       /______  BelAir  _____/                        |
|                              |________|                              |
|______________________________________________________________________|

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Re: What is the air pump used for?
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 01:00:04 GMT

In article <BvtF98.K0K@mail.boi.hp.com>, wesf@boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii) writes:
|> : I wonder why it is a bad idea to run the engine on the lean side?  
|> 
|> Running an engine lean will increase the CO level, running the engine
|> rich will increase the Hydrocarbon level.  The middle range is where
|> you want to be...

Correction:
Running an engine lean reduces CO and eventually increases HC due to misfire.
Also running lean increases the NOx output.
Running an engine rich will increase CO and HC.

The ideal fuel-air ratio is about 14.6 (Lambda = 1) and this is where
the newer (post-1981) 3-way catalyst can effectively oxidize CO and HC
and reduce NOx for minimum emissions.  

A good reference book is the "Bosch Automotive Handbook" which can
be obtained from the SAE.

Mark
From: Brian.E.Hannon@dartmouth.edu (Brian E. Hannon)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: a wierd Mustang electrical problem: spastic turn signals?
Date: 14 Oct 92 03:36:52 GMT
 <24343@sybase.sybase.com>
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH
X-Posted-From: InterNews1.0a5@newshost.dartmouth.edu

In article <24343@sybase.sybase.com>
joe@sybase.com (Joseph Weinstein) writes:

> My turn signals 'got no rhythm'. They blink, but they are erratic.
> Within twenty seconds they will be weak and quick then strong but slow.

I don't know what year your car is or anything, but I have a similar
problem to the loose fan belt in my '89 Crown Vic.  The alternator and
battery are not powerful enough to power the headlamps, climate control
fan, radio, and turn signals all at once when the engine is not revved
high.  So... when I'm driving at reasonable speeds, the turn signals
work fine, but when I slow down and come to a stop, they're really
lethargic.  I've assumed it is just a problem that I'll have to live
with.

Bri
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: atovorni@engr.UVic.CA (Andreas  Tovornik)
Subject: Re:  Help!! Burning oil
Reply-To: atovorni@engr.UVic.CA
Organization: University of Victoria, Victoria, BC, Canada
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 92 18:05:15 GMT

In article 28952@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU, xh2v@fermi.clas.Virginia.EDU (Xiaojun  Huang) writes:
>Hi, everyone,
>
>My 84 civic started to smoke, light blue and smelt bad.

My car emits a bit of blue smoke when I start up and the car has been
sitting overnight. In my case, the valve seats are worn down so the oil
at the top of the engine sort of leaks past the valves, and causes a puff
of blue smoke. When things heat up a bit(30 seconds) the moving parts
expand and stop leaking. This is typical of Chevy 305's with high milage
that were driven in town, like mine.

>I guess it must have something to do with the temperature because:
>
>1. It never happened before since I bought it in June, the weather has just turned
>   very cold.
>
>2. after driven for a while the problem seemed to dissapear.

explained above. if oil is leaking past the piston rings, the rings heat up
and expand, sealing or lessening the leakage.

>3. when it is warmer, it smokes less.
>
>
>I called the honda dealer and I was told that it probably was due to the worn
>
>of the valve of the engine which seperated the oil from the combustion chamber.>

The dealer is probably right.

>I also called some other garage and got something totally different, such as
>
>the piston ring or something even more serious.
>
>Does anyone have any idea of have some expierience on this kind of problem?

See above. 

>Please send me a mail if you can help.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Xiaojun.
>
From: lott@egr.msu.edu (Jennifer Lott)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: General question re: old Ford trucks ('70-79)
Date: 7 Oct 92 14:48:56 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Case Center, Michigan State University

A quick appology if this is the wrong newsgroup to post this question to.  
Advice on other newsgroups to try would be appreciated, as long as it's 
suggested nicely.

I'm looking around to buy an OLD Ford truck.  Does anyone know offhand what 
year ford switch their trucks from leaded to unleaded?  

I can spend up to $1,000 and I'm wondering if any of you have one that's 
holding up well, or are they just basically all falling apart at this 
point.   Good or bad experiences are welcome.   I've called on a few, and I 
understand it's basically how the truck was treated, etc., but I see alot of 
ford trucks still around so they must have been built to last.   Also, I'm 
looking to buy a F-150.  Please e-mail me personally.

thanks

Jennifer (j)
lott@forest.egr.msu.edu
From: howard.smith@spacebbs.com (Howard Smith) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: hydridepg3
Date: 10 Oct 92 23:50:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: SPACE BBS - Menlo Park, CA - 10 Lines + 4gB - 415-323-4193
Reply-To: howard.smith@spacebbs.com (Howard Smith) 

AHA-SV Page 3

19. Cool the hydride storage tank down to 50 degrees F., maint-
    taining the 300 psi hydrogen gas pressure.
20. Repeat 17, 18, 19.
21. Repeat 17, 18, 19. [ Three times should be sufficient ther-
    mal  cycling to make the hydride absorb as much hydrogen  gas
    as possible.
22. Seal the valves of the hydride storage tank and ship it to be
    installed at the site of hydrogen use.

!INSTALLING THE HYDRIDE STORAGE TANK

When  installing make sure that the connection lines  are  purged
with pure hydrogen gas right before connection, to ensure that as
little as possible of air gets into the hydride storage tank. The
Co,  Co2, and H20 vapor in the air can all poison the hydride  so
they must be excluded.

Whenever recharging the hydride storage tank make sure that the
hydrogen  gas is as pure as you can get it. (See the  article  on
the  AHA  Electrolyser and its cleaning  systems.)  The  standard
recharging sequence is:

1. To connect a high pressure hydrogen hose from a compressed gas
   source  or  directly  from  the  outlet  of  an   electrolyser
   to  the  hydride storage tank. Taking care to purge  the  hose
   during the process of connection.

2. Hook  up the internal cooling system of the  hydride storage
   tank and keep it as cool as possible as long as the hydrogen
   gas is entering the tank. The hydriding reaction creates heat
   and the hydride must be cooled or it will heat up and the
   sponge action will not take place.

2. Increase the hydrogen gas pressure to approximately 100 psi.
    for  approximately ten minutes, to start the  hydriding  pro-
    cess,  then  increase  it to 300 psi for  an  additional  ten
    minutes to complete the process.

3.  Disconnect the hose and make sure the inlet valve is  sealed.
    ie.  quick disconnect. and replace the quick disconnect  back
    into a clean protected storage holder.

The  hydride  storage tank will cycle between charging  and  dis-
charging  some ten thousand times before the  ferrous,  titanium,
manganese hydride decrepitates to such a small particle size that
it  doesn't function very well. At that point bring  the  hydride
storage tank back to the recycling station so that the  materials
of  the hydride can be taken out and remelted and reused to  give
another ten thousand cycles.
---
 . SLMR 2.1a . Backup not found: (A)bort (R)etry (P)anic
                                                      
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: st1q9@rosie.uh.edu (Devine, Della M)
Subject: Buying NEW Targetmaster 350 from GM
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: University of Houston
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 17:43:00 GMT

          Has anybody ever bought a NEW engine from Chevrolet?
I'm selling my car and i've got a blazer i would like to get another motor
for. I've talked with a lot of friends that know me and they think i just
oughta buy a NEW motor from a dealership here instead of building one.
(never built one before!). Their main argument is that if i buy the one
i want, a 327 corvette long block from a guy in houston tx, if something
ever goes wrong with it i'm out of the $350 i paid for it. If i buy a new
one, if something ever goes wrong with it, it's on warranty! And the motor
has never been installed in a vehicle so there shouldn't be (read hope not)
any problems with it.
    I was wondering if there are any other alternatives to this?  I mean,
they are selling here for right at $975 for a NEW one. About the same thing
in a lot of newer trucks and such but without fuel injection.
    What comes with this motor? does it come sans carb and intake?
or does it include that?  I'm looking for something VERY dependable and that
won't suck toooo much gas so i can drive it to school and back every day.
(only 50 miles a day round trip). And i don't want something that smokes
or sucks gas, or burns oil, or anything like that.
    Is this a good deal? Or should i have someplace build me one for
$500 or so? I mean, rebuild mine for that price?  Also there is a guy
in town that for $1000 will build a 350hp 350 and install it...But he's
not GMC and won't warrant it for more than 6 months.  Anybody have
any comments on this motor? i know four people that have installed them
in their vehicles and they are happy...

                                         Waiting.
                                         william c devine ii
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: upgrading carb for Pontiac 301 engine
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 7 Oct 92 18:05:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> I have a '78 Pontiac 301 engine rated at 145hp SAE net.  Performance
-> is adequate, but nothing impressive.  I am thinking of replacing the
-> current 2 barrel carb with a 4 barrel from a junkyard off of the same
-> engine.  Both configurations were offered from GM that year. Mine is
-> engine code Y, I don't know what the other is.
->
-> Question:  Is this worth the effort?  Will I notice a performance
-> jump, or am I just setting myself up for a lot of wasted time?

 I don't think you'd see enough difference to really matter, though
you'd be able to listen to that good ol' 4-barrel sound when the
secondaries opened up.

 You'll need all the brackets for the anti-diesel solenoid and anything
else that bolts to the carb, and probably the air cleaner from the
4-barrel motor.

 My advice would be to save your money and start squirreling away funds
for a 400 or 455.  It'll bolt right in, though you'll need the A/C
bracket to match the new motor.
              
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: iainw@bcarh1.bnr.ca (Iain Woolf)
Subject: General question concerning blue smoke...
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Keywords: blue, smoke, exhaust, old
Reply-To: iainw@bnr.ca
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 17:59:42 GMT

I am interested in knowing general causes of blue smoke being emitted
from the exhaust of an old car. In particular I have an 1979 VW Polo
(bit smaller than a Golf) which tends to emit blue smoke after being 
in a lot of traffic, or after being driven for a long time at high
revs (eg. motorway driving ~70mph). After an oil change, there isn't
much smoke at all, until about 3/4 weeks later when it starts to reappear.
 
 o) Is this just due to old age and engine wear?
 o) What can be done to combat it?
 o) Is adjustment of the engine timing a possible/partial solution?
 o) Does it have anything to do with bad oil seals on the pistons?

Any help much appreciated - please email to iainw@bnr.ca and I will
post a summary.

Also, please could someone send me a FAQ list for this newsgroup if
one exists - if it doesn't, then don't bother ;-)
 
Cheers.
 

 Iain Woolf,                      | My opinions are just that - MINE!
 BNR Europe Ltd, Maidenhead, UK   | 
 (0628) 794537                    | iainw@bnr.ca

--

 Iain Woolf,                      | My opinions are just that - MINE!
 BNR Europe Ltd, Maidenhead, UK   | 
 (0628) 794537                    | iainw@bnr.ca