HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: apj@beldin.sun.ac.za (Andries Dippenaar)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Corrado Body Styling (Was Re: Corrado VR6 or Golf VR6)
Date: 16 Nov 92 17:58:12 GMT
Article-I.D.: hippo.1992Nov16.175812.19618
Organization: Rhodes University, Grahamstown, South Africa
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]

Trevor Paquette (tpaquette@ita.lgc.com) wrote:
: In article <1dvnt7INN8fg@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> cf947@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Chun-Hung Wan) writes:
: 
:   I thought the body styling changed a bit already for 1992? The nose on the
:  Corrado seems more 'stubby' (shorter)? Anyone else notice this?

That's correct.  The nose had to be bulged slightly to accommodate the
new VR6.  It's only really noticable when you are able to compare the
pre- and post bulge models side by side.  I've seen a photograph in a
UK (I think) magazine featuring both.

Andries
***********************************************************************
*       /|~~\ * APJ Dippenaar        * "If you wanna make the world a *
*     /__|__/ * apj@beldin.sun.ac.za *  better place, take a look at  *
*   /    |    * Univ of Stellenbosch *  yourself and make a change."  *
* /   \__|    * South Africa         *             -- Michael Jackson *
***********************************************************************
From: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Restricted top speed (Re: 93 Jetta GLX 6 cylinder-)
Date: 23 Nov 1992 03:38:36 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, teek@flight.uwaterloo.ca (Prateek Dwivedi) says:

>
>Speed governors:
>
>BMW only does it on the 3 series... not on the faster (more expensive)
>cars.  Hmmm.... r they trying to protect the poor people from
>themselves?!

nope..sorry. The also do it on the 750il's, and the 850i. Not sure
about the others, but i KNOW they do it on these two, and can probably
find the article on the 850.
DREW
-- 
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
?????????????????????????????????-----whatever!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Re: Smogging a Bug
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 00:29:54 GMT

In article <HOLLEN.92Nov12123115@peg.megatek.UUCP>, hollen@megatek.UUCP (Dion Hollenbeck) writes:

|> I have a 2110cc with dual two barrel 40mm Weber DCNFs, and as such, a
|> larger engine with MUCH more breathing capacity than stock should put
|> out a lot more emissions.  The emissions standards were designed for
|> aa 1500cc engine with dual single barrel 32mm Solex carbs.  I can
|> easily pass smog cert if I have just recently had a tune up.

The standards in AZ are designed to pass the average 5-liter V8 with
average tune-up.  The levels allowed for 4-cylinders are only slightly
lower.  If it isn't broken and gets fairly good mileage, it should
pass in AZ.  There is a great reluctance here in AZ to tighten up on
the standards to be anything close to the original factory requirements.
Even then, approximately 15-16% of the cars tested fail each year!

|> All emissions standards are based on the model year and standard
|> displacement engine, and if you have not messed around with it too
|> much, you should be able to pass if it is good working order.

Agreed.  The question is whether the original poster of this thread
wanted to improve their vehicle beyond just passing (which IMHO is
no real test on older cars).  Maybe Mike could further comment?.....

Mark
From: chan@sumax.seattleu.edu (Anthony K.B. Chan)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: RE: AUDI 5000S Help
Date: 17 Nov 92 04:22:23 GMT
Organization: Seattle University

The stock struts are non-gas pressurized oil struts made by either BOGE or
SACHS. They costs $125 plus tax from the dealer sort of like your mechanic said.
I don't think they are worth it since you can buy the same struts from a 3rd   
party parts place like those listed in the European Car magazine. I have an
85 5000S and I have the front struts cartridges and rear shocks replaced at
63,000 miles with BOGE Turbo gas struts and shocks. I pay $65 each for the
front cartridge and $55 for each rear shocks from a local store from Seattle.
The list price for the front strut were $113 each and the rear were $103 each.
These are the suggested retail price from BOGE of America. They are stiff 
but they are not like Tokico and Bilstein. I like the ride very much, my Audi
now has 90,000 miles on it and the struts and shocks feel like new. BTW I 
live very close to downtown and the road surface around are very bad and I am
very surprise how well they struts and shocks holding up. By the way the BOGE
has lifetime worn out warranty as long as you still own the car first install
them on (only apply to the top of the line PRO GAS and TURBO GAS which is the
second in line). The original one on the AUDI if they are made by BOGE they 
are probably the one called BOGE AUTOMATIC(don't ask me why they are called 
automatic) they are the bottom model of the line and they are discontinued
at least as an after market model but they probably still made and sell by
BOGE to Audi, Porsche and VW as factory parts. Now when you think about
how much I paid for the TURBO GAS and it is second from the top of the model
line of BOGE then you realised how much the dealers and AUDI of America is
ripping you off for OEM struts and shocks.  

If you want really cheap one then maybe KYB will work for you, I was tempted
to try it since they are half the price of the BOGE. I heard they are OK.
I don't want to pay too much either, Bilstein and Koni are twice as expensive
like and I said they are stiffer probably the adjustable Koni are OK. The
guy who sold me the BOGE also has Bilstein and Koni in stock but he told me
buy BOGE if I do not want my fillings to come out from teeth if I am commuting
around town all the time. I figure I go with him since if he really want to 
rip me off he could have recommended me to buy the Bilstein. And also I have
a friend who replaced his stock BOGE on a 928s with the Bilstein Heavy Duty
model and it is one hack of a stiff ride plus a lot more road noise but it
did improve the already good handling 928s to the point one might want to do 
something stupid.

You might want to replace the front struts bearing when you replace the 
struts cartridges. The bearing is about $25 to $28 each from the dealer. It's
really worth to replace them at the same time when you do the struts since
they are probably very worn and bind a little bit after 7 years.

Anthony
From: blu@cellar.org (Dan Reed)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Keeping Your Watercooled VW cool.
Date: 19 Nov 92 20:42:18 GMT
Organization: The Cellar BBS and public access system

mbernar@erenj.com (Marcelino Bernardo) writes:

> In article <1992Nov17.003738.8775@wuecl.wustl.edu>,
> christos@wucs1.wustl.edu (Christos Papadopoulos) wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > 	If the fan runs constantly it cools only the radiator coolant
> > during startup, thus not affecting the rate the engine warms up. As
> > Drew pointed out, the only side effect is that the coolant in the radiator
> > gets colder, but this simply causes the thermostat to open less, thus
> > still maintaining the correct engine temp. However, it is possible that
> > there might be some coolant leakage from the radiator during warmup
> > if the thermostat is old and does not seal very well, in which case running
> > the fan constantly will cause slower engine warmup.
> > Alex's point is valid in this case.
> > 
> 
> You're forgetting that the fan blows air right at the engine.  Don't you
> think this would cool the engine (specially in the winter) and hence result
> in a longer warm-up time.

No, it does not.  The fan even on high speed, blows *just a bit* more air 
over the engine, than say, driving at 55 Mph in the winter.  Plus, on the 
A2's the engine is *offset* from the fan.  The area behind the fan is, more 
like an open space, than the head of the engine.

The modifcation was (and is) designed to be easily reversed for _very_ cold 
weather.  Even with the 1 hr drive I had into work, and the 32 Deg outside 
temp, my heater got just as warm as it always does, and my temp gauge showed 
that it was runing between the LED and the "white zone".  Mind you, my drive 
deals with about 45 min of high (Very high) speed driving, then 15 of stop 
and go traffic.  

The point about it causing ythe thermostat housing to leak, is bunk.  If 
there is a leak, its going to happen (the worst) when the engine is hot, and 
the boiling coolant is trying to leak out.  

The idea behind this mod, is that it gets your car to warm up, as normal, 
then operating temp, THEN lets it get no higher than that.  Before the mod, 
in the summer, my car would run up to 220Deg (just above the LED), now with 
the mod in the winter, it gets to 190 (180 Deg thermostat).  Warm-up time is 
about the same....

--
Dan Reed AKA Blu Max - blu@cellar.org - AnalCADGeek! - Industrial Music Maker
    68' Cougar XR-7, 89' VW Golf, 74' Honda CL360t, Vextrex Unit Lover
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: dp54@mc4adm.UWaterloo.ca (Rob Silcher)
Subject: Glowing Front Brakes
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 13:45:35 GMT

I just took my Rabbit for a test drive after putting the front end back 
together. Everything seemed okay. However after awhile I noticed smoke coming
the front left wheel - it also smelled awful. At first I thought it might
be the transmission. I pulled over to take a look. What did I see but a bright
red glowing brake rotor.

I haven't had a chance to take things apart. From a quick glance it looks like
the pads are on properly. If the pads were rubbing I think I should have
noticed a pull to the left while driving but I didn't. Any ideas???

Thanks in advance,

Rob Silcher dp54@mc4adm.UWaterloo.ca
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: ahmad@Warren.MENTORG.COM (Ahmad)
Subject: 2 Problems with Corrado VR6
Date: 20 Nov 92 16:51:29
Organization: Mentor Graphics, Warren NJ


I have been driving the VR6 for about a year now.
I love the car, especially those days when I smoke those Mustangs 5.0
on traffic lights.

I am having two problems that I can't figure out:

1. The car rarely starts from the first time, unless its
   been driven for a while and the engine is still very hot.
   It never fails to start the second time. This is really
   strange for a new car. It anyone experiencing the same
   behavior?

2. It's a minor problem, but my digital clock falls behind a 
   couple of minutes every week or two. Is this a factory
   defect ? Should I have the clock replaced ?


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ahmad Deek                          |     Mentor Graphics Corporation
email: ahmad_deek@mentorg.com       |     IC Group
(908) 580-0102  		    |	  15 Independence Blvd
                                    |	  Warren, NJ 07059
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

"If you make $50,000 today, you have the same buying power as the average
coal miner did in 1949, adjusted for taxes and inflation," John Sestina,
nationally recognized Certified Financial Planner;  quoted in 1987.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: kjberte@cray.com (Kurt Bertelsen)
Subject: Re: How to replace broken CV joint boot?
Reply-To: kjberte@cray.com
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 23 Nov 92 13:28:14 CST


I have hade good luck with the replacement split boots you can get
from most auto part stores.  They run about $15.  I have used them 
4 seperate cars:  80 Rabbit, 80 5000, 81 4000, and 84 5000.

Just make sure the glue is set a long time before taking them out 
in the cold.  I reccommend a heated garage over a weekend.


---
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Kurt Bertelsen              I am Connor MacLeod of the Clan MacLeod.
kjberte@cray.com            I was born in 1518 in the village of 
DoD# 0538                     Glenfinnan on the shores of Loch Shere.
86 Miniceptor               And...I am IMMORTAL.   - Highlander
From: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: info on jetta
Date: 16 Nov 1992 21:41:26 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, ereddy@morgan.ucs.mun.ca (Edward Reddy  MI) says:

>Well, this is an interesting question...
> 
>I have hydrolic lifters (but their solid). I asked the dealer about my
>lifters (because I wanted to replace them). They told me they were
>hydrolic lifters. So, I went to my local garage, and they said they were
>solid.
>Owning a 85 Jetta, I am beginning to wonder. Do I get hydrolic? (As
>mentioned before) or Solid? They were apparently changed to hydrolic. I
>replaced two last year, and the seem preety solid to me (no pun
>intended). 
>
>Edwardo...
>
once again, due basically to lack of fundage for a BENTLY(ie real) manual,
i am unsure how to chekc..the only thing i know is that the hyds supposedly
came in 85 according to the CHILTON's IMPORT manyul...and they do not need
adjustment...which rips me, cuz i paid for an adjustment, but do not know for 
sure that i needed it, y'know..anyone in the know out there..help him and me
both..cuz i've heard that the hyds came in 85, along with the new body/chassis
style, etc...
thanx
DREW
-- 
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??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
?????????????????????????????????-----whatever!
From: rp@cns.nyu.edu (Robert Picardi)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Timing belts and 16v engines
Date: 16 Nov 92 20:22:07 GMT
Reply-To: rp@cns.nyu.edu
Distribution: na
Organization: New York University

Believe it ... i had mine break at 48K !!! luckily my 16v GLI suffered no engine
damage. By the way,this was the first failure of any kind, aside from
regular service and a set of tires the car has cost me $0.00 for repairs.
From: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Shoulder belts for rear seats in Golf,GTI?
Date: 19 Nov 1992 06:47:20 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, mbernar@erenj.com (Marcelino Bernardo) says:

>As the subject says, can the GTI (1985) be retrofitted with
>shoulder belts for the rear seats.  Is this available from
>the dealer or other source?
>
>Thanks.
>
>Marcelino Bernardo
>mbernar@erenj.com
yes..all of them have the mounts..i though the 85's came w/them..they
are in the jetta...at any rate, the mounts should be there, so all you
have to do is find a seat belt assembly and bolt it in, using proper 
bolts to the proper torque(sorry..i don't know it)...at any rate..i'd
suggest going to a JY to find a set of belts..but they are a safety thing,
and that could proove non beneficial..so..i dunno....good luck!
DREW
-- 
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?????????????????????????????????-----whatever!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang)
Subject: Re: 46mm wrench found!  Thank you.
Organization: Brandeis University
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 19:30:01 GMT

In article <1eps3dINNfp7@cs.tut.fi> rane@peltosirkku.cs.tut.fi writes:
>From article <1992Nov20.085215.1166@yvax.byu.edu>, by colemant@yvax.byu.edu:

>> a 2.5 foot handle.  They let me borrow it on the condition that I not use 
>> a cheater bar.  The bar would have made it go quicker and more ellegantly.
>
>Acceptable condition!  I just broke one wrench like that by using a cheater
>bar for the same job, sigh.

Whenever I use a cheater, I make sure that the tool has a lifetime
unconditional warrantee.  Then, when I break it, I can celebrate and
get a new tool!  (I found a craftsman screwdriver on the road once.
It had been run over several times and most of the handle was missing.
It was replaced.  I was happy.)

>-- 
>Rekursio: monissa maissa virastolle laadittu pyynto muuttaa virastossa
>          tyoskentelevan virkamiehen paatos.
>
>	-- Gummeruksen uusi tietosanakirja --
Send me a translation?


Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: christos@wucs1.wustl.edu (Christos Papadopoulos)
Subject: Re: Keeping Your Watercooled VW cool.
Organization: Washington University, St. Louis MO
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1992 21:01:10 GMT

>
>There seems to be a common belief that it is better to run the engine at
>cooler temperature, hence we see 160F thermostat on the market, and various
>schemes such as the above to allow the engine to run cooler.
>
>Perhaps someone knowledgeable can explain why there is such a need.  I would
>assume that the factory knows what is best.  My understanding is that running
>the engine at higher temperature improves its efficiency, and by running
>cooler than designed, piston ring to bore clearence may not be optimal.
>One important but seldom mentioned function of the cooling system is to avoid 
>localised "hot spots" in the head so that pre-ignition does not occur, this 
>really depends on the design of the system and I doubt dropping the average 
>temps by 20F can make any difference.
>

Some people believe that lowering the engine temperature will increase longevity.
Less heat means less stress on various components due to thermal expansion, less
chance of oil break down, etc.
	The 160F thermostat you mention is only meant for autocross applications.
The engine there is pushed to extremes, and it is a far from "normal" situation.
The recomended thermostat is 180F, or 80C. The factory thermostat is rated at 87C
so the temperature drop is not extreme. I have the 80C on my 84 GLI and the temperature
gauge settles well inside the normal operating range (if you believe the gauge).
	On localised hot spots, my intuition tells me that the lower surrounding
temperature will keep them cooler. I hope someone can say more about it though.

>My 86gti seems to run at a very constant water temp (in the middle of the gauge)
>regardless of outside temps and engine load except after sitting in stop and
>go traffic for extended period of time, when it creeps to the upper quarter.
>
>On the other hand, my oil temperature fluctuates quite a bit from 150F during
>city traffic in the winter, to 210F after half an hour of heavy to full throttle 
>almost redline driving.  Actual oil temps are substantially higher as the gti's
>digital oil temp gauge reads way too low.
>
>/tom

It seems to me that your cooling system works fine. My gauge would settle at
the 2/3 mark most of the time during city driving. The fan would come on after the
needle went passed the LED, at which point the power was markedly down,
until the fan stopped. The car always felt better with the needle in the
1/3 to 1/2 region.
Another side effect of lower coolant temp is lower oil temp.
My car comes with a tiny stock oil cooler that utilizes coolant to cool the oil,
so the modification will help keep the oil temp lower.

Christos.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu
Subject: Re: Help! Put oil in a Bug, and it disappears!
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 13:29:16 GMT
Organization: University of Louisville

In article <1992Nov20.214440.8481@pony.Ingres.COM>, garrett@Ingres.COM (WE'RE
ONLY HERE BECAUSE WE'RE NOT ALL HERE) writes: > In article
<20NOV199213163645@cc.utah.edu>, mgb5528@cc.utah.edu (MICHAEL G. BECK)                      
writes... >>
In article <1992Nov20.170103.11314@nntp.nta.no
>,BARANSKI@veamf1.nusc.navy.mil (Jim Baranski) writes... 
>>{I have a 71' bug, which has recently developed a problem. 
>>{  
>>{I've been putting a *lot* of oil into it recently, like a quart every fill up! 
>>{Yet it only smokes a little only when it starts up, and it isn't leaking. 
>>{  
>>{Where could the oil be going?  The front seal was just replaced, and I've heard 
>>{that oil can leak into the clutch housing... 
>>  
>>I had that happen to me a couple of years ago in '71 Super Beetle.  One sure  
>>way to tell if the oil is going into the clutch housing is if the clutch is  
>>slipping at high rpm's going up a hill.
>>  
> DON'T ANSWER HIM! It's a trick answer. Everyone who has owned a beetle knows 
> that YOU CAN'T GO UP A HILL AT A HIGH RPM IN A BEETLE! Thought you could  
> fool us, eh Michael? What is your REAL agenda? 
>  

DON'T ANSWER HIM! It's a trick warning!  My Bug would run high RPM's up a hill
all day long.  Never seemed to translate to any gain in speed though.  Solved
that problem though.  Once my '66 bus is running, I KNOW I'll never get any
speed up hill. (1600 DP)  Maybe a 1776, dual Webers, and an extractor will
change that.  I'm sure I'll have plenty of money saved after grad school is
over. ;-) ;-) ;-) 

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
|pH Fred == pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu    |                               |
|        == ..!psuvax1!ulkyvx.bitnet!pgheit01 |   IBM-  It may be slow, but   |
|           University of Louisville          |    at least it's expensive.   |
|                Louisville, KY               |                               |
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
From: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: needs help....fifth gear jumps back to neutral after changing clutch
Date: 16 Nov 1992 22:11:18 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, drparul@phazer.ksu.ksu.edu (TRANSCEND  G O D) says:

> i have problems with my vw rabbit gti enginer
> it has 5 speed
> i replace the cluth adn pressure plate assembly last week
> after these changes it started ...

started what, dude?

> needs help ....any answer
>
>
>
> shri j kotdawala

you are going to have to be a little more clear as to what your problem is..
if you expect any help on this...be glad to help(as would most others, i think)
if we knew the problem..
DREW

-- 
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
?????????????????????????????????-----whatever!