HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Sears Law Suit
Date: Sun, 06 Sep 1992 01:35:57 -0500

 > From: cfaks@ux1.cts.eiu.edu (Alice Sanders)
 > Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
 > Organization: Eastern Illinois University
 >
 > My daughter was recently ripped off by Firestone.  I am
 > going after them.
 > I have to send them letters from experts plus a letter
 > from my local
 > mechanic.  They CLAIM they MIGHT make restitution.  We'll
 > see.  I will let
 > you  know.
 >
 
GO GET EM!!!!!
it might speed your case if you sue em in local(to you) small claims 
court, and be sure to include your time and frustration!!!
attagirl alice!!!!
From: tmcdonal@ringer.cs.utsa.edu (Tom McDonald)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: What's a good one??? was Re: CLUB Story
Date: 7 Sep 92 23:59:48 GMT
Organization: University of Texas at San Antonio

In article <60094@mimsy.umd.edu> jsw@umiacs.umd.edu (Jeff Webber) writes:
>In article <Bu274D.2uy.1@cs.cmu.edu> rudis+@cs.cmu.edu (Rujith S DeSilva) writes:
>
>>Okay, so you can't reduce the risk of your car being stolen to zero.  Perhaps
>>it's time to take a different tack.  How about increasing the risk taken by
>>the prospective thief in attempting to steal your car?
>
>You can go to jail for harming someone that is trying to steal your car
>or your car stereo.   If the person dies you would probably be charged
>with manslaughter or even murder.
>
>There are just way too many lawyers in this country.

If it weren't for laywers, we wouldn't need laywers. :)

Actually, could you explain a little further?  Recently a man shot someone
breaking into his car.  It made the news, and he was never charged with
anything.  I think a passive injury system (best way I could think of calling
it) might be illegal for the fact that the would-be thief could claim he
was chasing off a thief when he got zapped or some other ludicrous story.

						-Tom
-- 
Okay, one more time.  This is your brain. (egg)
This is your brain on drugs. (egg in frying pan)
Any Questions?
"Yeah, can I have mine scrambled?"
From: rodder@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Jon D. Rodder)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Supercharged vehicles
Date: 13 Sep 92 01:59:50 GMT
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin, Austin TX

In article <9209101817.AA07771@wotke.vicor.com> danapple@vicor.com writes:
>
>> seanr@lobo.rmhs.colorado.edu (Sean Reifschneider) writes:
>> In article <1992Sep8.161221.28786@athena.cs.uga.edu> dug@athena.cs.uga.edu (D
>> ouglas Brown) writes:
>> Since a Turbo runs off of the exhaust, it's esentially running off of waste
>> energy.
>Not entirely true.  That pressure is created by the pistons pushing
>the exhaust gasses out of the cylinders.  So having more backpressure
>is going to cause more resistance to the motion of the pistons on the
>exhaust stroke.
>Unless, of course, the turbo runs off the *heat* of the exhaust.  Does
>it?
  
  Yes, the majority of the energy absorbed by the turbo charger comes
  from the heat of the exhaust.

>> I always
>> thought they should use a clutch on it so that when you don't want it on,
>> it isn't.  Otjust have the clutch engage when the throttle is open a
>> cartain percent...
>> Would an electronic clutch work for this?

  No, turbochargers do not use clutches. 

>Max, as in Mad Max, had a clutch on his supercharger.  The first
>generation MR2 used a magnet clutch to allow the drive to choose
>whether the supercharger was in use or not.  I *assume* this magnet
>clutch was just a heavier duty version of an A/C compressor clutch.

  Mad Max's 6-71 didn't have any rotors inside of it.  It was just for
looks, not functional.  To use a clutch with a roots type supercharger
as on the MR-2, you need an additional component--a supercharger bypass.
Since the supercharger isn't spinning, no air can flow through it.
I'm not sure what the MR2's bypass looks like, but it must be fairly
hefty.  Another option is to do what buick does on the supercharged
3.8l v-6, and leave the supercharger turning all the time and just
open the bypass when boost is not desired.  This requires a much
smaller bypass circuit than the clutched supercharger system requires.
Also, its very debatable as to whether the losses of spinning a supercharger
that isn't producing boost are very significant.  

>> Sean
>Daniel I. Applebaum  |  danapple@vicor.com  |  1986 Celica Supra "NVR DNF"


-- 
Jon D. Rodder
rodder@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu

67 Camaro RS - 350/4spd
79 Rx-7 - 12A/Holley 4bbl
89 Jeep Wrangler - 258/PIECE OF JUNK!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kkm@cyclone.larc.nasa.gov (Kenna Macauley)
Subject: Poor Man's Supercharger 
Reply-To: kkm@cyclone.larc.nasa.gov (Kenna Macauley)
Organization: NASA LaRC 
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 15:46:57 GMT

 I've noticed a lot of talk going on about Supercharging. Don't forget the 
supercharger in a bottle, Nitrous Oxide. These commercially produced systems 
can be bought to fit to just about anything with an engine in it. There are a 
lot of bad facts floating around about these systems most of which are not 
true. Here's what it can do for you.

1. Give you anywhere from a 50 to 300 HP plus at the touch of a buttom.

2. Strictly on demand when you need it.

3. Most well designed kits are bolt on and take no more than hand tools
   and an afternoon to install.

4. Very simple systems, can be removed if you decide to sell the vehicle.

The  Nitrous Oxide is merely used as an oxidizer it does the same thing a 
supercharger does, it increases the amount of oxygen present in the 
combustion chamber, when added with the right amount of fuel it esentially 
makes for a much more potent intake charge, hence the increase in horsepower. 
(also when the nitrous is injected by the spray bar it has a tremendous 
cooling effect on the intake charge which increases fuel/air density  which 
further helps engine output). The amount of HP increase you get denpends on 
the size of the orifices in the spray bars. One manufacturer even has a 
system that you can change the amount of HP increase you get by changing 
restrictors in the fittings on the spraybar plate underneath the carb. They 
have been stories circulated that it will burn up an engine. This is true if 
you decided to experiment on your own and didn't compensate the increased 
amount of oxidizer with an increase in  the amount of fuel. These two must be 
balanced or you'll get an overly lean mixture which will burn your engine up 
in very short order. Commercially produced systems of which there are many 
are engineered and tested to perform properlly on whatever application they 
are designed to work on. The usual system consists of a carb separator plate 
with two spraybars, one for gas, one for NOS, a couple of electric solenoids 
to control the flow and a bottle for the Nitrous Oxide plus all the hardware 
and switches need to install it. I've had two cars that it was installed in 
and have never had any problem with it. I can drive around all day with the 
engine returning the normal good gas milage and all but when i need the extra 
power its there. These system can be put on completely stock engines but you 
won't be able to get high HP increases you have to stick to the lower ranges. 
One extra note it's a good idea if you decide to purchase one of the units 
that you also buy some of the optional filters (Some system do come with 
them) These need to be installed in the fuel and NOS lines before the 
solenoids to keep out trash. Very important since a solenoid sticking open it 
not good for obvious reasons.

kkm@cyclone.larc.nasa.gov
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bote@access.digex.com (John Boteler)
Subject: Taurus shift kits, anyone?
Summary: I'm mad as hell and I'm not gonna take it anymore!
Organization: Express Access Public Access UNIX, Greenbelt, Maryland USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 22:28:15 GMT

Is there a cure for the dithering in the transmission
of the Ford Taurus?

My 1992 runs as well as can be expected, but it just is
too eager to upshift to save gas; instead, on upgrades
it shifts into third (I think it's third?) and expects
the car to actually go somewhere, meanwhile the engine
is pinging away under the load. A hack is to notch it
into the "1" position momentarily then back to "D"
and it takes the hint for a bit.

I would be willing to void the warranty just to
install a decent shift kit which would make this
thing a little more intelligent, not to mention
a lot longer lasting.

Any suggestions? Any caveats?

-- 

bote@access.digex.com (John Boteler)
From: ECSC9016731T@LUST.LATROBE.EDU.AU (Michael Wilson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Answers needed from down under
Date: 14 Sep 92 16:45:52 GMT
Organization: La Trobe University
X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.24

In <thompsje.716241005@craft.camp.clarkson.edu> thompsje@craft.camp.clarkson.edu writes:

> 
> A couple of months ago I remember a post from somebody from Australia who
> mentioned that most Australian cars have had 4-wheel disc brakes for
> quite some time. I was just curious when this trend (a good one, too)
> started and if it would be possible to retrofit some U.S. models with
> "Australian" model parts.  Any information would be welcome but more
> specifically I have a 1973 BMW 2002 that I would really love to have four
> wheel discs on.
> 
> Jeff

Well, I can tell you the Holden side of the story.

General Motors Holden developed the Torana based GTR-X in 1970, they build a
few prototypes and were set to go into production later the following year.
Among it's list of impressive features were four-wheel power assisted discs.
But for reasons that are still a mystery, the GTR-X was canned at the last 
minute. Had it gone into production, it would have been the first Australian
built car with four wheel discs!

Anyway, the first Holden with four wheel discs was the LX A9X Torana in 
1976/77. Why we didnt get them in the early seventies models I dont know, 
maybe they thought they were a bit expensive?    

As for Ford..... I think they first appeared in the Falcon's in 1973. This 
being in time for the annual Bathurst 1000 endurance race. 

By the mid to late 70's, four wheel discs were an option on most locally 
produced cars. I imagine the equipment in the local Fords would very easily
install in the US Fords of the same vintage. And I know the Holden gear has
been used in many kit cars and customs over the years. But sorry, I don't 
know sh*t about BMW's?!

Just a load of useless trivia.



              Michael Wilson, Silly Person, LaTrobe Uni, Australia
   +---------------+---------------+------------------------------------------+
 + |               |               |    'Ummm, about half past!'              |
 | |      O O      |      O O      |             ....guy at the bus stop.     |
 | |     \___/     |     \___/     +---THING:---------------------------------+
 | |      _________|_________      |    ecsc9016731t@lust1.latrobe.edu.au     |
 | +------Spot the Difference------+------------------------------------------+
 +--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ghg@en.ecn.purdue.edu (George Goble)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: A/C manifold gauges question
Date: 11 Sep 92 20:36:48 GMT
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network

In article <1992Sep10.162339.23464@news.nd.edu> mikeb@nowaksg.chem.nd.edu (Michael George Buening) writes:
>In article <1992Sep9.230529.19206@gtephx.UUCP> rakoczynskij@gtephx.UUCP (Jurek Rakoczynski) writes:
>>In article <1992Sep9.195545.4121@newsgate.sps.mot.com>, mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw) writes:
>
>[stuff deleted for space]
>
>>The R12 pressure (or is temperature the correct word?) in a
>>non-operating system should be the same no matter what the total
>>charge is, as long as there is still liquid R12 in the system.  For
>>example, the pressure in a propane tank will read the same at a given
>>temperature no matter how much propane is actually in the tank. 
>
>Whoa!!! What is the logic behind this statement.  I'm not sure what
>you mean here but I can't make sense of this.  As many of you know from
>a simple chem/phys text:              PV=nRT
>where P=pressure; V=volume; n=amount of the gas (in moles); T=temp
>and R= gas constant.  When you change any one of the variables,
>n,T or V, you change P.  If you have more propane in a tank at the
>same temp you will have more pressure.  Because this is related to
>n, or the amount of propane, you can correlate pressure with concentration
>if you know what the volume is.
>
>
>
>			--Michael Buening
>			internet:mikeb@nowaksg.chem.nd.edu

WHOA!  PV=nRT is the gas law.  It only applies if there is no "liquid"
in the tank or refrigeration system.  If any liquid is present, the
pressure will follow the pressure/temp relationship for the substance.
Propane is an almost exact Match for R-22.

A not running refrigeration system (or propane tank), will have the
same pressure (at a given temp) no matter if there is 1 drop of
liquid (freon) or propane left or it is 99.9% full of liquid.

Typical pressure for R-12 is 70 PSIG at 70F, 82 PSIG @ 80F (may be
off a couple of PSI).
--ghg
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mja@philabs.philips.com (Michael Amato)
Subject: Do they really do anything? Was Re: Recommendations for Mini Van
Originator: mja@hercules
Reply-To: mja@philabs.philips.com (Michael Amato)
Organization: Philips Laboratories, Briarcliff, NY 10510
Distribution: rec.autos
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 19:23:42 GMT


|> >
|> This was going on long before Iacocca came to Chrysler. I bought a new
|> Chrysler product 25 years ago which turned out to have a leak in the
|> power steering. I kept going back to get it fixed under warranty, and
|> eventually got a chance to talk with the actual repairman: He said
|> that the service director was telling him to report the problem fixed,
|> with the hope that eventually I would give up, because the real
|> problem was a hair-line crack in a casting and Chrysler would never
|> pay them for the replacement part. I did give up, fixed it myself, and
|> swore never to buy another new car. Let somebody else take the
|> depreciation hit if that's all the warranty is worth!
|> Bob Wilson
|> wilson@math.wisc.edu
|> PS I did keep that car for another 21 years and 147,000 miles, but all
|> the work was my own.

Had a cold stalling and cycling idle (hot and cold) problem with my 88 Jeep
Cherokee (4.0l six, 5 spd.). Since I was paranoid when I bought it got the
extended warranty (mistake #1?), I tried to have the dealer fix it.
First they said it needed a major tune-up, which I went for (40k mi, 
mistake #2?). Didn't help. Brought it back, they fiddled with it for a day,
_said_ they replaced an O2 sensor (at least that didn't cost me anything,
just aggravation and time - mistake #3?). Well, it stopped stalling cold.
So now I decide to take matters into my own hands, unscrew the intake 
hose and look at the intake butterfly (fuel injection) and its BLACK!
You would think a major tune up would include a little carb cleaner on the
intake butterfly? Clean the whole thing up and presto! Smooth idle hot and 
cold. Now the only problem is the idle hot is about 1100-1200 rpm. Seems a litle
on the high side. New it was idling about 800-900 rpm. Before `fixing' it
it would oscillate between 600-1000 rpm and die after going to 400. I've
checked to make sure that I didn't mess up the cable - the throttle is closing
all the way. The idle is not supposed to be adjustable. Did I make mistake #4
somewhere along the line? Should I try to get the idle down? i.e. is it too 
high? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.




 
-- 
+-----------------------------------------------------------------+
| Michael Amato  DoD#0639 | "If pro is the opposite of con,       |
| mja@philabs.philips.com | then what is Congress"? - Will Rogers |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hsd@swlrat.msd.ray.com (HERBERT DASILVA)
Subject: Re: Dirty oil after change?
Keywords: oil changes
Organization: Raytheon Company, Tewksbury, MA
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 17:14:55 GMT

hugo@bluehau.bubble.org (Hugo Bueno) writes:

>As a counter-data point, and one which I venture to guess
>is much closer to reality.....

  Depends on who's reality you're talking about...  :-)

>I've done countless oil changes on cars and I have YET to see
>one that has clear oil after the change.  This even includes
>changing the filter and using engine flushes.

>Hugo Bueno

  Honestly, it sounds to me like you're not changing your oil often enough.
  Of the countless oil changes I've done, on cars I've had long term
  contact with (even non-Mopars - really!), an oil change every 4-5000
  miles yields oil that is nearly crystal clean up to about 1000 miles (at
  which point it is browning, but still transparent).  And I NEVER use oil
  flush, even for a dirty motor.  I feel it is much less risky to change
  the oil AGAIN after only a couple hundred miles, letting the oil's
  detergent do the work, than use oil flush.  Oil flush just breaks down
  the viscosity of the oil too much for me to trust it in my engine...

	Herb "Mopar Maniac" DaSilva
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: c23st@kocrsv01.delcoelect.com (Spiros Triantafyllopoulos)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: What's a good one??? was Re: CLUB Story
Date: 8 Sep 92 14:55:50 GMT
Organization: Delco Electronics Corp.

In article <1992Sep4.215354.2347@research.nj.nec.com> behanna@phoenix.syl.nj.nec.com (Chris BeHanna) writes:
>	Someone suggested removing the computer and carrying it with you.
>Someone else suggested removing the coil wire and carrying it with you.  Both
>options seriously disable the car, although professionals could very easily
>start carrying spare coil wires and computers.

Hmmm. A user-removable car engine controller, which would be taken off the
car in much the same way the removable radios of today are.

Now, why didn't we (read .sig below :-) think of this earlier?

Spiros


-- 
Spiros Triantafyllopoulos                    c23st@kocrsv01.delcoelect.com
Software Technology, Delco Electronics       striantafyll@kosds1.gm.hac.com
GM Hughes Electronics, Kokomo, IN 46904      [A Different Kind of Disclaimer]
From: Michel_Denber.WBST147@XEROX.COM
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Cavalier Brake Problem and Question
Date: 9 Sep 92 17:59:00 GMT


	"By the way, the other chap said that the max. runout was 0.00005".
Sure you havent added an extra 0 to that? 5 hundredths of a thou is a _very_
fine tolerance."

The other chap would be me.  If I said runout, I should have said maximum
allowable thickness variation, and yes the book says 0.00005" (four zeros and a
5).  Of course that's half of one thousandth, not 5 hundredths of one
thousandth, although they're both pretty small.  Max. runout is listed as
0.004".  Or the book could have a misprint in it too, I suppose.  Anyone else
have a different A-car manual (e.g. Buick Century) to compare against?

			- Michel

denber.wbst147@xerox.com
From: Steve.Kaess@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Steve Kaess)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Ford Probe GT specs & questions
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 1992 13:38:55 -0500

 > r4s@icf.hrb.com (Robert M. Sanders) writes:
 >
 > >Hi y'all,
 >>  I've been reading with interest the discussion going
 > on in rec.autos
 > >about the Ford Probe and various engines.  The questions
 > I had though I
 > >thought belonged here, so here goes.....
 >>  1)  I've got a 1992 GT with the 2.2L 4cyl turbo engine.
 >  All the ratings
 >>      I've seen give it around 145 hp.  Is this accurate?
 >  My roommate
 >>      thinks it should be closer to 180 or so after being
 > in it.
 >
 > I think it should be higher too.  They claim 195ft-lb of
 > torque which I
 > believe, but the HP rating seems too low.  Maybe it's for
 > insurance <--------------------------------------------------- 
                        less hp =less premiums... thats it in a nutshell



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mf@dancer.uucp (24241-fusco)
Subject: Re: Sears Law Suit
Organization: On the Road
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 92 01:32:58 GMT

In article <1992Sep3.115610.9585@cbfsb.cb.att.com> mxl@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (marc.a.levy) writes:
>Does anyone have the details on the recent lawsuit against 
>sears (That I hear they lost) that would entitle all of sears
>automotive customers to receive a $50 credit to cover the
>problems that sears has been having?

	NPR reported that they will issue $50 coupons to CA customers
(but others may request them too, I think).  BIG DEAL!!!
They will also NOT admit guilt!
	Sounds like the same deal the airline industry is getting...
the lawyers get the $$$ and we get coupons.....

>I dont think sears was trying to rip us off, I just think
>their mechanics (in general) were all inexperienced, and
>careless.

	I've had several experiences with Sears, they tried to rip 
me off (they are defintely not alone, but probably worst than most).

mf
From: davet@ksr.com (Dave Teichholtz)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: I NEED 2nd CAR..$2-300..ADVICE?..SELLER??
Date: 11 Sep 92 09:22:09 EDT
Organization: Kendall Square Research, Waltham, MA



In article <1992Sep9.144415.22590@crd.ge.com> foggh@sargon.crd.ge.com (H.W. Fogg
) writes:

>   The cars in this price range that I have had the best luck with are
>   Datsun B210's.
 <stuff deleted>
>   The last one I bought was a '73 (???) and I spent $50.00 for it. I
>   didn't do anything to it
>   and it ran for about 6 months before I junked it. (It needed brakes and
>   a new clutch plate).
>   But, hey... $50.00 ... I spend more than that on a pair of pants.

   $50.00? Are you related to the Rockefellers? I have a 1982 Nissan Sentra
   wagon that I bought for $0.40. That's right, forty cents. I've been
   driving it for two years, and it is a great car. Well, it has a couple
   of problems, the alloy wheels are not as clean as I would like, and the
   air conditioner could be a bit colder, but, hey... forty cents!!
   And before the flames start about how in some states (including Mass) 
   you have to pay $1.00 for a car to make the sale legal, I did pay a buck,
   and got a sixty cent rebate! (found 2 quarters and a dime in the glove box)

-David

--
============================================================================
David Teichholtz                 Kendall Square Research 
davet@ksr.com                    170 Tracer Lane, 
(617) 895-9466                   Waltham Mass. 02154-1379

Women think men will change after marriage.  Men think women won't.
They're both wrong