From: cpeters@waldorf.engin.umich.edu (catherine anne peters)
Subject: Re: ballroom gowns
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 92 12:48:54 EST
Organization: University of Michigan Engineering, Ann Arbor
Originator: cpeters@waldorf.engin.umich.edu



Hello fellow dancer and seamstress.  

I have lots to say on this subject.  I have designed and commissioned a seamstress to make my ballgown for competition and I have recently gotten married and had the experience of thinking of a wedding dress that would be suitable for dancing.

There are three main criteria for a ballgown, whether it is to be used for competition or for general formal dancing.  

First criteria: full flowing skirt.  My ballgown skirt was make of chiffon (standard).  Because chiffon is sheer, you need several layers of it or you need an opaque liner fabric that is just as soft.  I used three layers of chiffon.  I wanted the skirt to be a full circle -- you can picture this if you imagine grabbing the bottom of the skirt at the sides and holding it straight out at your waist (half circle in front and half in back). If you spin around fast enough this kind of skirt will stand straight


 out. It turned out that this required 5 yards for each layer (45 in. wide material), and I'm pretty tall so that's probably an upper estimate.  I used four gores (four seams -- each at right angles to each other). Some professionals prefer a skirt that is the equivalent of a double circle  -- you can picture this if you imagine grabbing the bottom of the skirt at the sides and holding it above your head (one full circle in front and one in back).  The circumfrence of such a skirt is enormous.  It is visua


lly quite effective when bordered with feathers.  I am not suggesting you consider a double circle.  You should consider either a full or slightly less than full circle. (Don't forget some opaque lycra panties over your hose!)

Second criteria:  ankle length.  If you do standard ballroom dancing, then you are probably taking fairly sizable steps, backwards, in heels.  There is no way you can do this with a floorlength gown.  Take my word for it -- I tried this at my wedding and it didn't work.  After much consideration, I opted for a traditional style wedding gown -- floor length.  I don't regret this decision, but I regret thinking I would be able to dance in it.  My new husband and I stepped out onto the dance floor for our cus


tomary first dance as husband and wife.  The music started, we started our waltz, and all eyes were on us.  By the time we got half way around the floor, I had gotten my heel caught in my hem and had ripped a part of the skirt.  But of course this did not matter because I was too happy to care.  We simply stopped monetarily, I grabbed the majority of the skirt in my left arm, and we continued on as if nothing had happened.  This was fine, but it made dancing difficult for the remainder of the evening.  As 


I said, I do not regret having a floorlength gown for my wedding because our wedding was very formal and traditional.  If you feel you want a floorlength gown for your wedding, then do it, dance while elegantly holding the skirt in your left hand, and then later have it hemmed shorter for general use.

Third criteria: freedom of arm movement.  A ballgown has to look it's best when your arms are raised.  I quickly found that most commercial wedding gowns do not fit this criterion.  I tried many on.  The saleswomen thought I was strange as I stood in front of the mirror with my arms raised.  For example the very popular and elegant off-the-shoulder-style is often a dissaster unless it has been made loose enough so that when you raise your arms you do not raise the entire dress off your bodice.  My ballgown


 is off the shoulder, but the small sleaves were fitted with me in raised-arm position.  When I am standing with arms down, they droop a bit.  I had my wedding gown made out of lace that was completely fitted in the bodice and sleaves.  This way it looked good when standing, and it didn't loose its intended shape when dancing.  The bodice and sleave design will probably be your most difficult decision.  I suggest trying many dresses on and seeing what happens when you raise your arms.  It was an enlighteni


ng experience for me.

The final thing I will mention regards your question about undergarments.  Of course this depends on your needs, but assuming you prefer to wear some sort of bra ....   If you are set on  strapless, or off-the-shoulder, then be prepared to be making minor adjustments throughout -- there's no getting around it.  Many of the costumes are made with bra cups built in -- this way you do not have to worry about whether anything is showing.  They are also made with boning in the bodice -- this is standard constru


ction practice for any garment with a fitted bodice that extends slightly past the waistline.  Also, many costumes are made with flesh-colored elastic straps to hold it up.  I guarantee that even if your strapless dress fits very well, it will travel downward when you are in close contact with your partner on the floor.  This is the reason for the straps.  You can color white elastic with liquid foundation face makeup.  But you are probably not interested in elastic straps since this is acceptable for a co


stume, but not for anything else.  Other than having a bra built in, your other option for a strapless gown is a good quality bustier.  Go to a specialty shop for this and get personal attention, and expect to pay $30 to $50. 

As you can tell, I have spent a fair bit of time thinking about this, and I am a very experienced seamstress (with a PhD in Civil Engineering, so even though I never had any courses in bridge construction, I feel I have the credentials to advise you on garment structural integrity and constuction techniques).  Let me know if you have more questions along the way.

Catherine Peters
cpeters@engin.umich.edu