HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: hwilson@scic.intel.com (Howard Wilson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Electric motor wiring.
Keywords: motor, wiring
Date: 15 Oct 92 01:20:57 GMT
Article-I.D.: scic.1992Oct15.012057.1856
Organization: Intel Corporation, Beaverton, OR

I have a question for any of you electric-motor-heads that read
this group... don't worry, this has nothing to do with the dreaded 
developed versus rated hp subject.  I'm planning on building a
homebrew dust collection system for my shop and have found a cheap
source of what appear to be some nice motors.  They appear to have
been used for some form of vacuum pump system in some computer systems.
I believe they are made by Fujitsu.

Here is basic data from the plate:

Single phase
230 Volt
3400 RPM @ 60Hz
Approx 9 amps (continuous)
2 HP 

The sulplus store where I found these has a bunch of them (some
which appear to be brand new and still packed in boxes) for $35
each.  These are real honkers, about 50lb each and appear to be 
very well built.

Question?  Upon examining these, there are six wires coming out and
no obvious bulge on the outside containing a capacitor?  Any ideas
how to go about hooking this up?  The usual capacitor start jobs
I'm used to working with usually just have 2 wires plus a ground.
If this were a small low voltage dc motor, I'd hook it up and test it
by trial and error.... I'm not too keen on doing this with 220 V
and potentially turning it (and myself for that matter) into a
heap of molten slag!!

I'll admit (embarassingly) I'm an EE and have completely forgotten
(intentionally?) my electromagnetics theory.... hey, that was 15 year
ago!

I'd appreciate any suggestions, thanks!

-- 
Howard Wilson
Intel Corporation		Supercomputer Interconnect Components Group
5200 NE Elam Young Parkway	MS CO5-01     Email: hwilson@scic.intel.com
Hillsboro, OR  97124		Phone: 503-531-5056
From: coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM (Chip Coffin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: TableSaw Horsepower
Date: 7 Oct 1992 23:49:06 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems
Distribution: world
Reply-To: coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: surfin

Old topic, I'm sure.


I just bought a Powermatic 5hp tablesaw.

It holds a 10" blade and has 5 hp 3-phase motor.

I know of two netters in particular that think this is a 
total waste of money on a motor as 3 HP is fine for a 10"
blade.

I argue that if I use a static converter, I can still get 3 hp
out of it (weak argument), and I will be cutting aluminum with it.
But it will go into a shop with 3 phase power.  

Any other arguements?  Or do I just get to say "well, mine's bigger".


chip

ps. Thanks to all who responded to my RAS survey.  I've gotten 26 responses
so far. I'll mail out the forms in a week or so. 



Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: alexande@genghis.borland.com (Mark Alexander)
Subject: Re: Recommendations for random orbital sander
Originator: alexande@genghis.borland.com
Organization: Borland International
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 18:04:17 GMT


I recently bought a Ryobi, and although I've only used it on one
project, it seems to do the job well.  It's comfortable to hold,
doesn't vibrate your arms off, and the dust collector actually does
collect dust (not all, but the major portion).  I also like the
hook-and-loop sandpaper, which makes for very fast changing.  The
price was pretty reasonable too (about $77 mail order).

The only problem I had was scratching the wood when first lowering the
spinning sander onto a workpiece.  The scratches were easily sanded
out, but a bit disturbing.  I'm sure this is my own inexperience, not
a problem with the sander.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: millios@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (william.l.millios)
Subject: Mail order lumberyards
Organization: AT&T
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 19:01:18 GMT

Title says it all: who's doing it, who's good, and who's not.

Bad and good experiences solicited as well.

Bill
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: need help using a scraper
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 21:25:53 GMT

Jim Paradis writes
> Anyhow, I seem to be getting passable results, but I get the nagging
> suspicion it could be a lot better.  So my question to you scraper experts
> is this:  When do I know that I'm *done* burnishing?  How big a hook should
> I have?  Is it possible to *over* burnish?

Sharpening and using a scraper are hard to describe in print, even with 
illustrations. I recommend Frank Klausz's video on Finishing, available from 
Taunton Press and Manny's Woodworker's store, among other places. These places 
also rent the tapes.
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta contractor's saw
Date: 8 Oct 92 22:25:45 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA

bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds) writes:
: 
: Your points about accuracy in other elements of the table saw *are* important. 
: However, they actually work against your arguments. Since the final results are 
: a sum of many errors you want to reduce the magnitude of each error, not ignore 
: them and say: well, it can't get any better. 

I agree that you should have everything as accurate as possible. My point was,
for the average woodworker, the rest of the tolerances in the saw would make
.01" inaccuracy in blade alignment negligible. The accuracy is only going to
be as good as the worst of the errors. 

: If you align your table saw, miter gauge, and rip fence to tighter tolerances 
: than the wood itself can support you make your end results much more 
: predictable and accurate. 

Agreed - the question is at what point the adjustment just becomes picky and
really gains you nothing.

Bill
From: wack@ariel.ncsl.nist.gov (John Wack)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: help: wood movement in design
Keywords: design, wood movement
Date: 13 Oct 92 11:47:55 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: National Institute of Standards & Technology


This is a query for advice on accounting for wood movement in a small
piece of furniture I'll be building soon.  The piece itself is a small
bookcase/end-table unit - well, I don't know what the piece is typically
called but here's the description: 2 sides and a back, the sides about
10" x 22" high, the back about 12" x 22".  There is a large drawer in
the lower front that creates a lower shelf, and then a shelf again near 
the top.  Everything will be out of solid 3/4 cherry.  The grain will be
running vertically on the sides and back.

The part I'm having some difficulty with is the wood movement for the 
back.  The first question is: provided I use my usual finish which is
a mixture of tung oil/poly and I finish all sides, is it still necessary
to account for wood movement?  Hopefully no, but my guess is yes.  The
back will expand and contract horizontally, making the piece either more
wide or more narrow.  How does one account for that?  Would using a joint
such as a tongue and groove down the middle of the back (and not glueing 
it) be the way to go?  Is there some more elegant solution?  

Any advice is always appreciated,
John Wack
From: ron@topaz.bds.com (Ron Natalie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Blade -> Slot Alignment on the Contractor Saw.
Date: 8 Oct 1992 15:52:34 GMT
Organization: BDS Systems
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: topaz.bds.com

There is a limited amount of adjustment that can be done to the Contractor
saw top to put it back into alignment.  Loosten the four screws and try
to get it back.  After Moron Moving and Storage moved my table saw to
Virginia I tried that, but I still couldn't get it all the way back into
alignment.  I took it over to the local Porter Cable place and they fixed
it for me (I don't know how, I wasn't there when they did it).

Not having the blade straight to the slots is a ROYAL pain.  Nothing cuts
without binding and burning.

-Ron
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: General vs. Powermatic
Keywords: general, powermatic
Date: 7 Oct 92 03:14:06 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <1992Oct05.172610.19543@microsoft.com> stevenj@microsoft.com (Steven Johnson) writes:
|Do people ever discuss table saws in this group?  (:^))

Nah, you're the first.

|I have a question for owners or experienced shoppers in regards
|to the Powermatic 66 and the General table saw of similar
|price/construction.

|How do these saws compare?  Does the General tilt the blade
|toward or away from the fence?  Is the General a pretty well
|made saw, or is it rougher like the Grizzly?

Better Homes and Gardens WOOD reviewed the two saws, along with
many others (eg: the Unisaw etc.), and considered the General
to be slightly better than the Powermatic, and the best in its
price range.

|If you can't tell, I'm trying to decide between these two.  They're
|both made in North America, but the General is made in that North
|American third-world country called Canada.  I hear they drink alot of
|beer up there to keep warm, but they may still be able to put together
|a decent table saw.  Any experiences??

Yes, quite a bit of beer.  But gawd, it's expensive.  Beaver tails
are cheaper and keep you warmer.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
From: infante@acpub.duke.edu (Andrew  Infante)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Moolighting
Date: 12 Oct 92 18:54:07 GMT
Organization: Duke University; Durham, N.C.

Does anyone out there who isn't working full time as a carpenter
( I assume there must be someone on the net who isn't a computer 
person, right?
)
do work on the side of their regular job as a carpenter/woodworker.

When I was younger, I used to make Shaker shelves and pegboards
and had a small "business" where I advertised in the local paper and
sold stuff at flea markets.

I'm thinking of trying to make some more money on the side so I can
save some for grad school next fall.

If you get _really_ involved in this, can you deduct wood supplies
in taxes if you declare you're xtra income?

Is anyone incorporated as a carpenter?

thanks.

andy
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 13 Oct 1992 10:39:54 EST
From:         "Bryan Laurila, Computing Labs Manager" <ACBL@NMUMUS.BITNET>
Subject:      Grandfather clocks.

    I am interested in building a granfather clock, can someone please
recommend a good kit to purchase for this.

                   Thanks,

                          Bryan Laurila
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 16 Oct 1992 12:21:04 EST
From:         "Lawrence E. Rondot" <RONDOT@IPFWVM.BITNET>
Subject:      Maquetry vendors

I am looking at building a dining room set (still looking at least) in a
Hepplewhite style.  The plans I found (reference below for the plan archive)
detail the process nicely, but the photo and write up talk about marquetry.

I have never seen any of this stuff in any of the catalogs I get.  Can
anyone point to a vendor who sells this stuff?  Specifically I am looking for
a "classic cornflower" and something called "boxwood banding" 1/16" thick.

Anyone used this stuff or know where I can find it?

Thanks
Larry Rondot
Rondot@IPFWVM.BITNET     - or -     Rondot@SMTPLink.IPFW.Indiana.Edu

Plans reference:

Book titled:     Heirloom Furniture
Author:          Gottshall, Franklin H.
Publisher:       The Bruse Publishing Co. Milwaukee WI USA
Copyright Date:  1957
Lib of Congress: 57-12925
                 154 pages, illistrated, indexed
My Source:       Allen Co. Public Library, Fort Wayne IN (219) 424 7241

This book covers 26 furniture items, each with detailed drawings including
profiles of moldings.  Each piece includes a bill of material that breaks
down materials by type of wood (primary, secondary) and lists hardware.

Good working drawings of each major assembly and construction hints.

List of items:
Stauffer Corner Cupboard                   Governor Winthrop Secretary
Unger Corner Cupboard                      Duncan Phyfe Roll-top desk
Hepplewhite Dining Table                   Spinet Desk
Hepplewhite Sideboard                      Early American Flat-Top Office Desk
Hepplewhite Side and Arm Chair             Chippendale Wing Chair
Welsh Dresser                              Piecrust Table
Chippendale Lowboy                         Sheraton-Type Grandfather's Clock
Colonial Ladder Back Chairs                Early Georgian Slant Top Desk
Turned Trestle Table and                   William and Mary Dressing Table,
      Colonial Hanging Wall Shelf                Mirror and Stool
Four-Poster Beds                           Queen Anne Highboy
Butterfly Table                            Jacobean Chest of Drawers
Light Sheraton Side Chair                  Paneled Ceder Chests
Hepplewhite Rocker for Small Child         Colonial Mirror
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 12 Oct 1992 15:15:57 EDT
From:         Doug Cutler <UNCDWC@UNCVM1.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Wood selection and purchase
              12 Oct 1992 18:10:54 GMT from <clarke@ACME.UCF.EDU>

On Mon, 12 Oct 1992 18:10:54 GMT Thomas Clarke said:
>Slightly off topic, but I bought some cherry from Steve Wall
>lumber co in North Carlonia (Address in Fine Woodworking).
>Wall had a sale on "log-run" cherry, planed two sides, 90 cents
>a board foot in 100 bf quantities.
   I think my 8' 12/4 probably came from the same run, he cut a 16' in
 half and I got to pick, it was not easy to tell in the rough both pieces
 looked good.  I got one hollow knot that I couldn't work around because
 both sides will show so I just drilled it a cut a plug from some of the
 scrap and most  everybody thinks it it just decorative grain!!!
   I have also purchase 8/4 mahogony, 3/4 poplar,. now as I drive up to Myodan
 and pick it up myself I have and advantage but I have never turned down
 what I have been offered.

   No financial conection with Steve Wall Lumber except for the money HE
 get from by bank acount!!


  Doug. Cutler                       Office of Information Technology,
  VM Systems Programmer              University of North Carolina.
From: tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bookcase design (It's baaaack!)
Date: 14 Oct 92 18:35:24 GMT
Distribution: usa, na
Organization: University of Arizona UNIX Users Group

In article <1992Oct14.140909.26654@crd.ge.com> meltsner@crd.ge.com writes:

>Oak stair treads (11-1/4, 5/4, bullnose, 36-42" wide) are available
>and would appear to be a good shelving material (no cutting -- I don't
>have a table saw so I'd like to minimize saw work).

>Around here, stairtreads run about $20-30 ea, depending on length.

Wow! If we assume that 5/4 is costed out as 8/4, and that 11-1/4 is 12 wide,
then if a 42" tread costs $20, thats still $2.80/BF.  More likely the
36" tread costs $20, making it $3.33/BF.    I pay between $1.85 to $2.10 per
BF for red oak.   In addition, sometimes I get 5/4 for about $2.85/Surface
Foot, which works out to $1.42/BF if you count 5/4 as 8/4 for costing.

I would suggest you seriously consider looking around at costs of raw lumber,
and cutting it yourself.   Let us assume you have 10 shelves, 36" by 12".
Using stair treads it will cost you from $200 to $300.   If you use 5/4
(paying as 8/4), you will have 60 BF, at a cost of $111 to $126.  Assume
10% wastage, and the cost is $122 to $138,  a savings of $62 to $178.

Maybe $62 isn't worth cutting the boards with a skill saw and routering
over the edge to get the bullnose.  Is $178 worth it to you?  Would be to
me...  I assume that the time involved in cutting 10 shelves would be about
1 hour (setup, takedown, cleanup), and the router time would be 2 hours
(proabaly less, but lets go fer it).  That means at $178/3 hours, my
"pay" would be $59/hour.  I'll work for that!

Even if it takes you twice as long, it's still $30/hour, for work which
isn't onerous.


Secondly, what about making sides, top and bottom out of oak instead of
plywood?   3/4 Oak veneer 2S plywood costs $54/sheet here.  If you use
3/4 of a sheet for sides, top and bottom, thats $40.    The amount of solid
oak for an 8' by 4' carcass sides, top and bot is 24 BF.   If you can find oak
from $1.85 to $2.10 /BF, thats $45 to $50.   Assuming 10% wastage, that's
$50 to $55, a price increase of less than $20.   Even if you have to pay
the very high price of $3/BF,  the cost will still only be $72.   Would
it be worth $32 for solid oak sides, top and bottom?   I would suggest using
plywood on the back for several reasons; cost, stability, no edge gluing, 
etc...

If you buy lumber for your shelves instead of tread, the money saved might
go into making the sides out of solid wood instead.
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 12 Oct 1992 07:57:54 -0800
From:         RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM
Subject:      Re: Reasons for owning a planer (was Re: Red Oak in Bulk)

I got a delta 12" planer about 6 months ago.

I didn't think I'd be using it much to adjust lumber thickness; and I've
been supprised how often I'm finding a use for custom thickness lumber
(I guess when I couldn't get it I wasn't thinking about how to use it).

I haven't used it on "ruff" stock yet; but, it does a great job on cleaning
up "finished" stock so it only needs a light sanding. It's turned into quite
a time saver (and I hate to sand).

                                Ron  (all opinions my own)
From: rhaar@albert.cs.gmr.com (Bob Haar)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Workbench Dogs -- what for?
Date: 9 Oct 92 17:50:15 GMT
Reply-To: rhaar@albert.cs.gmr.com
Organization: G.M. Research and Environmental Staff

In article 3DI@world.std.com, rdc@world.std.com (Ralph D Clifford) writes:
|>In article <5615@ssc-bee.ssc-vax.boeing.com> simnet@ssc-vax.boeing.com (Mark R Poulson) writes:
|>>I've heard of and seen workbenches with rows of holes in them which dowels
|>>are placed. These dowels are about an inch in diameter, two or three inches
|>>long, and someone called these things "dogs". What can you do with this
|>>(it seemed like a woodworkers bench that I was looking at)? Any ideas?
|>
|>    Practically everything, but I seem to use them most often for two tasks:
|>

Slight exageration - but dogs are quite useful.

As Ralph says - two primary uses:

|>     1.  If I am working on the surface of a board or panel, I use the bench
|>dogs to hold the panel in place. 
|>
|>     2.  I also use the dogs to mount auxilary tools to the bench.  My miter
|>box is mounted on a piece of 3/4" ply. 

What he didn't say is how you actually use the dogs. 

A bench dog, in use, sticks up above the surface of the bench
and acts like to stop to hold some work piece. If the dog
is positioned opposite from a vise with extension that be raised
above the level of the bench top, you can put the work piece
between the dog and the vise, and close the vise to hold the
work piece in place.

Actually, bench dogs are usually made so that they be be inserted
into any one of a series of holes in the bench top that run in a
line opposite the vise. It is often convenient to use two dogs together,
so many neches will have two parallel rows of holes for dogs.

Then there are the questions of round versus square dogs and metal vs.
wood. But we don't want to re-start those old religious wars.



---
	Robert Haar               InterNet : rhaar@gmr.com 
	Computer Science Dept., G.M. Research and Environmental Staff
DISCLAIMER: Unless indicated otherwise, everything in this note is
personal opinion, not an official statement of General Motors Corp.
From: apoyner@as.arizona.edu (Tony Poyner)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Recommendations for random orbital san
Date: 7 Oct 92 22:29:45 GMT
Reply-To: apoyner@as.arizona.edu
Organization: MMT Observatory, Univ.of Arizona

In article 17868@genghis.borland.com, alexande@genghis.borland.com (Mark Alexander) writes:
>
>I recently bought a Ryobi, and although I've only used it on one
>project, it seems to do the job well.  It's comfortable to hold,
>doesn't vibrate your arms off, and the dust collector actually does
>collect dust (not all, but the major portion).  I also like the
>hook-and-loop sandpaper, which makes for very fast changing.  The
>price was pretty reasonable too (about $77 mail order).
>
>The only problem I had was scratching the wood when first lowering the
>spinning sander onto a workpiece.  The scratches were easily sanded
>out, but a bit disturbing.  I'm sure this is my own inexperience, not
>a problem with the sander.


Do NOT lower the "spinning sander" onto the workpiece.  Turn it on AFTER
you are in firm contact with the work, otherwise you are using it like a
drill-mounted sanding disk, not a random-orbital.
(Norm does this all the time, and it drives me nuts!)

---
Tony Poyner                               apoyner@as.arizona.edu
Multiple Mirror Telescope Observatory     Tel   (602) 621-5185
Univ. of Arizona, Tucson, AZ 85721        Fax   (602) 670-5740
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: kimnach@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov (GREG KIMNACH)
Subject: Re: experience w/Jet jointer
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
Distribution: na
Date:  9 Oct 1992 10:46 EST  

In article <6007@dove.nist.gov>, wack@ariel.ncsl.nist.gov (John Wack) writes...
> 
>You can add this to your file of jointer information:
> 
>For anyone who cares, I recently bought a Jet 6" jointer that I got 
>from a local woodshop at a reduced price ($380.00).  I bought the
>Jet because I couldn't afford the next grade of jointers, which all
>seem to start around $700, but I wanted something that would last
>for quite a while and felt that the Ryobi wouldn't.  Anyway, for
>anyone considering saving big bucks on an import power tool a la
>the Jet, I thought it worth mentioning here that one should not assume
>anything about how well it was assembled at the factory.  Once I 
>started checking, I had to remount the motor, adjust the cutters,
>the rear door wouldn't close so I had to adjust a number of things,
>the electrical box wasn't grounded properly, and on and on.  The hole
>in the bed for the cutter guard is off-center, so I had to do some
>filing and it still doesn't work properly.  
> 

I purchased the Grizzly 6" Jointer and it assembled quikly and easily.  The 
cutter was aligned.  It had only one flaw: one set of holes in the base 
didn't line-up perfectly.  Overall, it's an excellent value and I highly 
recommend it (and other Grizzly machines). 

Greg
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From: hsc@sybase.com (Howard Cohen)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: A Sharp Find
Date: 12 Oct 92 20:02:06 GMT
Distribution: ba
Organization: Sybase, Inc.

I was at Urban Ore today (in Berkeley), and came across a great deal (which I
snarfed).  It was a 16" X 2" grinding wheel.  I got it for about $135.  It was
complete with a 1/3 hp motor, and an excellent steel stand.  One side of the 
stone says "Lombard & Co, Boston Mass".  The other side says "Genuine Nova 
Scotia Stone".

Does anybody know anything about this stone?  There's no obvious provision for
using water.  Its not clear what the grit is, but its pretty fine.  Any ideas?
Is there any way to determine if I should use water with this kind of stone?
Anything I should know about using this kind of stone?  It has a pair of
pulleys which reduce the speed.

	Howard
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  Howard "I wood if I could" Cohen
  hsc@sybase.com  {pacbell,pyramid,sun,{uunet,ucbvax}!mtxinu}!sybase!hsc
  Sybase, Inc.    6475 Christie Avenue, Emeryville, CA 94608, 510-596-3406 
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