HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: donb@crash.cts.com (Donald Bowen)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Stuck motors
Date: 24 Dec 92 19:11:17 GMT
Organization: CTS Network Services (crash, ctsnet), El Cajon, CA


	On the subject parts, I would like to hear ideas abut freeing stuck
motors.  In this case you do not want to destroy anything.  Pistons can
sometimes be modified from another application but castings are a different
story.  On loder engines the block, pistons, and rings are all iron.  The
intake or exhaust is left open and one valve lets water into a cylinder.

	I have several methods that work some of the time.  The first step
is to fill the cylinder with diesel oil and let it soak.  Next replace the
sark plug with one that has a zerk and apply pressure.  The next step the
head is removed and the piston is convinced with a block of wood and a hammer.
The last step is to use a press.  If none of these work then time to try
something else.  I have drilled out the piston but that is extreme.

	On a 1927 IHC 10-30 we could not get free we tried everything to
avoid pulling the head.  We could look into the crancase and see the bottom
of the bores was clean.  A look through the spark plug holes showed the
top of the bores to look good except for one.  It did not look bad but it
was worse than the others.  When we pulled the head, we found a piece of
the block had broken and wedged between the bore and piston.  

	I am looking for new methods.  The next one to tackle is a 1905
hit and miss.  It looks like it may be a challange.

	DonB
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: jb@rti.rti.org
Subject: Re: How to tin-coat a Copper or Brass pan
Summary:  pcb tin plating
Keywords: tin, copper, brass, pan
Organization: Research Triangle Institute, RTP, NC
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 92 04:01:20 GMT

moroney@world.std.com (Michael Moroney) said:
>There is a chemical available at electronics stores intended to plate copper
>printed circuit boards with tin.  Should work with a pan.

\begin{quote}
TINNIT(tm) ELECTROLESS BRIGHT TIN PLATE
Designed to plate bare copper circuit boards
to enhance solderability. The material is supplied
as a dry mixture with an indefinite shelf life.
When mixed with water, it has a shelf life of approx. two months.
Tends to plate any metal that is chemically
more active than tin.
No electricity required. Will plate up to 600
square inches. Makes 1 pint.
CAT# ER-18 $4.75 each
\end{quote}

Page 32. Fall 1992 Catalog
All Electronics Corp.
PO Box 567
Van Nuys, CA 91408-0567
order 800-826-5432, info & cust. service 818-904-0524
Visa, MC, Discover, no COD; min order $10, $3.50 S&H

Produce label says "Contains acidic Tin Salts" and
"overheated dry salts can decompose and release irritating
sulfur dioxide and ammonia gases".

Mfg'd by "The DATAK Corp."


Jeff Bartlett
From: brian@pdx.csd.mot.com (Brian Vandewettering)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Mechanical Steel Tubing
Date: 22 Dec 92 20:45:18 GMT
Article-I.D.: pdxvme.1426
Organization: Motorola, Beaverton, OR

I need a source for mechanical steel tubing.  The size should be 1.75"
outside diameter with a .25" wall.  I need about 3 feet of it to use
as a sleeve for a black powder cannon barrel.  This stuff is supposed 
to be used to make hydraulic cylinders.  I've had no luck locating 
any around the Portland, Oregon area.

-brian@pdx.csd.mot.com ('till 2/12/92)
-- 
"It cannot be presumed that any clause in the Constitution is intended to
be without effect..."

- Chief Justice John Marshall, Marbury v. Madison, 1803
From: mcbryde@navier.math.uh.edu (Jack Mcbryde)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bench-top finishing
Date: 31 Dec 1992 05:27:11 GMT
Organization: UH Dept of Math
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: navier.math.uh.edu

In article <1992Dec30.162644.380@news.uwyo.edu> jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu writes:
>I'm about to order a bench-top for a bench for a small (8") metal lathe,
>and have settled on the laminated maple variety.
>
>But I'm not sure how to finish the top (or bottom).  One method is to

I'll echo the previous posters "use the same finish on all sides". And you
might want to consider one of the polyurethane finishes as the top coat.
(My inclination would be Varathane.) In any case I'd test any of the finishes
I was considering for the top coat for resistance to machine oils, etc.
And I'd probably ask on rec. woodworking about the rest.

jack

--
jack      mcbryde@karazm.math.uh.edu    * All I ask of Thee, Lord
* Christ died for our sins.  Dare we    * Is to be a drinker and fornicator
* make his martyrdom meaningless by     * An unbeliever and a sodomite
* not committing them? - Jules Feiffer  * And then to die. - Claude de Chauvigny
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: ld@cup.hp.com (Larry Dwyer)
Subject: Black anodizing aluminum
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 01:24:28 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.8 PL6]

Are there any recommendations for black anodizing aluminum that
can be done with reasonably safe chemicals and a process that
can be carried out in a garage?  I am machining cannon for
a model of the Constitution and I would rather not paint them.


		Thanks
		Larry Dwyer
		ld@cup.hp.com
From: clarke@ll.mit.edu (Ken Clarke)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: auto body solder
Date: 22 Dec 92 01:29:38 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: MIT Lincoln Laboratory

Greetings!

I've been contemplating doing some body work on my '53 Plymouth
Cambridge using body solder/leading. In particular, the rocker panels
are pretty far gone. Picked up a newish set of '53 Plymouth/Dodge
rocker panels at a swap-meet in Ohio and plan on MIG-welding them in
place and finishing with body solder. I've noticed the Eastwood
company has a body solder kit. It seems pretty complete.

Any suggestions/comments on body solder vs. plastic-based fillers?
Are there any pre-bondo body-men on the Net?

_________________
Ken Clarke
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: ara@wam.umd.edu (Ford Prefect)
Subject: Blacksmiths in Maryland ?
Organization: University of Maryland, College Park
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1993 01:00:07 GMT

Hi,
are there any blacksmiths in Maryland, particularly around the Bowie
Crofton area? or perhaps 1 hr drive away? 
-ara
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: towle@vssteg.enet.dec.com (Clark Towle Gunsmith)
Subject: Re: Black anodizing aluminum
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1992 13:51:47 GMT


In article <BzouKs.K2v@cup.hp.com>, ld@cup.hp.com (Larry Dwyer) writes...
>Are there any recommendations for black anodizing aluminum that
>can be done with reasonably safe chemicals and a process that
>can be carried out in a garage?  I am machining cannon for
>a model of the Constitution and I would rather not paint them.

 I second the recommendation for the Birchwood Casey "Aluma-Black".

 It works good and gives a tough durable finish.

 Just be sure to use something like a scotchbrite pad to buff off the 
oxidation immediately before you do it or you'll end up with a spotty finish.

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: cbl@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu (Chris Luchini)
Subject: Re: Looking for SKF
Reply-To: cbl@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu
Organization: High Energy Physics, University of Illinois, Urbana-Champaign
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 14:15:27 GMT

In article <1992Dec22.054612.22061@ramsey.cs.laurentian.ca>, you write:
>cbl@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu (Chris Luchini) writes:
>
>>Does anyone know the US distributor for SKF
>>machine tools? I'm looking for a 15mm x 1mm thread pitch
>>taper and plug tap. They supposidly have it in stock.
>
>Call any local industrial supplier.  We have several in town but only
>certain ones carry SKF.  If the distributors don't have it in stock in
>Sudbury, they get it Courier'd from Toronto overnight (from SKF Canada).
>
>Check the yellow pages under industrial supplies / tools / 


	I called 5 randomly selected machine tool outlets in the
	Chicago area, and every one claimed that they never heard
	of SKF, and/or didn't know where to find them in the US.
	This is truely bizzare. I'll try a few more this
	afternoon...
*1110 W. Green/Urbana IL 61801/217-333-0505/cbl@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu 
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: auto body solder
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 18:50:11 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 Lead work is the permanent way to go. Plastic is the easy way. Tools for
lead aren't too common; you may be stuck with paying Eastwood's prices.
I got my small portfolio through garage sales (old guys seem to hoard
the stuff). I wrote a longish pair of articles a while back. I'll e-mail
them to you; if others want I'll post them.

 Basically, lead gives a better bond and a harder repair, takes flexing
better and does not rust or promote rust. At the body shop you'll pay
$4/lb for 30/70 body solder. I've gone to hitting the scrap dealers for 
60/40 and pure lead (each of which go for under a buck/lb) and mixing down
to 70/30. Of course if you're using that much lead your hammer work needs
improvement...
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: moroney@world.std.com (Michael Moroney)
Subject: Re: Green copper
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 23:13:52 GMT

Eric Kasten writes:

>Ok, here's a question for you folks.  Sometimes on copper metal	
>sculptures you'll find a finish which is sort of a rough green
>substance (maybe somesort of copper oxide?)  The question is:	
>just what is this finish, and just how is it created?  
>Thanks for any info!

It is basic copper carbonate or basic copper sulfate, formed from 
oxygen, carbon dioxide and sulfur oxides (pollution) present in the
air.

-Mike
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: "Gary A. Woodward" <p00140@psilink.com>
Subject: photo lithography of plates
Organization: Performance Systems Int'l
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 03:00:31 GMT
X-Mailer: PSILink (3.2)

Does any one have a good reference source for the photo (micro) etching 
of metal plates?

Regards

Gary
From: cf036@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (G. Gary Preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Question about this Newsgroup
Date: 3 Jan 1993 20:39:45 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc4.ins.cwru.edu


In reply to Mr. Quist:

There's nothing wrong with regarding yourself as a craftsman if
that's what you want to be and you are happy with it.  However,
I doubt you would like to have someone name you as something
that either you are not or leaves out something you consider
important.  The issue for some of us is whether craft is inclusive,
and we don't think it is.  One of the things left out of
crafts training, for instance, is much depth in history.  For
a balanced look at your roots, see for example "The Medieval
Machine: The Industrial Revolution of the Middle Ages" by
Jean Gimpel, Holt Rinehart & Winston, 1976.  Even in the 1200 to
1400 time frame the antecedents of craft, labor, and engineering
were clear.  Even in the middle ages there was a gradation in
skills and breadth of understanding from labor to engineering (
least to most).  Craft still occuppies the middle slot - and that's
not an insult.  That's what craft means.  If you choose to call
yourself a craftsman, then you've named what you are.  To chafe
at the limits of your self-labeling is the same as being insulted
if you name yourself a bastard and someone remarks that you mean
your parents were unmarried.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: okunewck@psuvax1.cs.psu.edu (Phil OKunewick)
Subject: Re: Black anodizing aluminum
Organization: Random, at best
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 22:49:16 GMT

ld@cup.hp.com (Larry Dwyer) writes:
>Are there any recommendations for black anodizing aluminum that
>can be done with reasonably safe chemicals and a process that
>can be carried out in a garage?  I am machining cannon for
>a model of the Constitution and I would rather not paint them.

   I've done this.  It's similar to cold-bluing a gun - not perfect,
but effective.  I believe I got the solution from Dixie Gun Works.

   A quick-and-dirty way to blacken metals is to color them with an
indelible black magic marker.  I've done this too; the coating looks
similar to anodizing.  It won't take wear and tear, but this shouldn't
be much of a concern on a model.  If you nick it a little on assembly,
touch-up is easy.  Just make sure the marker is fresh and juicy - an
old marker will wipe the ink away as fast as it applies it, leaving a
messy streaked coating.

   I don't know whether this ink is UV-stable or not.  It certainly
lasts a lot longer than Erasable black marker, which turns brown after
a few months.

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: lowell@locus.com (Lowell Morrison)
Subject: Re: Silver solder removing
Organization: Locus Computing Corp, Los Angeles
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 17:09:25 GMT

In article <BzMq8y.6Lr@cs.psu.edu> okunewck@psuvax1.cs.psu.edu (Phil OKunewick) writes:
>
>   Oh hey!  A new newsgroup!  Can I be the first poster?
>
>   Here's a little trick: To remove silver solder when you can't
>produce enough heat (or when heating the object too high will cause
>problems), add regular tin-lead or lead-free solder to the bond.  The
>tin-lead solder will alloy with the silver solder and the melting
>temperature of the entire mass will be much lower than that of silver
>solder alone.
>
Just don't try that on precious metals, the pitting caused can be
quite severe and infact can ruin the piece.

--Lowell Morrison
--Uncle Wolf


Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Subject: Re: Looking for SKF
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1992 23:00:27 GMT
Organization: ddsw1.MCS.COM Contributor, Chicago, IL

By the strangest coincidence, I was in the bus yellow pages under bearings
and founr SKF Industries Rolling Meadows... 708 394 0066

js

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: hollasch@kpc.com (Steve Hollasch)
Subject: General Metalworking Questions
Summary: Newcomer questions; don't know much about metalworking.
Organization: Kubota Pacific Computer, Inc.
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 20:38:18 GMT

    I'm new to metalworking, and haven't done much beyond very crude forging,
soldering, spring-making and cutting/drilling.  However, I've been very
interested in the craft (in many crafts, actually, including woodworking)
and have some questions for the new group.

    I've been hearing here about water, brine and oil quenching.  What are
the differences?

    I've done bondo work and find that it often suffers from many of the
symptoms listed in prior articles.  Can someone post an abbreviated summary
of body solder and how it is applied/worked?

    What simple ways are available to get a heat source hot enough to get most
metals cherry red?  To melt metals?

    What books do you recommend to read regarding metal working?  I'm
interested in history, smithing, composition and other information as well as
modern metalworking techniques.

______________________________________________________________________________
Steve Hollasch                                   Kubota Pacific Computer, Inc.
hollasch@kpc.com                                 Santa Clara, California
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: isr@rodan.acs.syr.edu (Michael S. Schechter - ISR group account)
Subject: Re: How to tin-coat a Copper or Brass pan
Keywords: tin, copper, brass, pan
Organization: Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 92 13:14:50 EST

Yes, they probably are tin. You could re-coat them by heating them up,
fluxing them with soft solder flux, and then running bar tin along the
surface. I don't even think you'd need to flux 'em actually. Just be sure 
they're very clean. (Steel wool/sandpaper, then clean with alcohol, 
don't touch with fingers after that, or greas ewill ruin finish)

In this day and age, you may want to consider having the insides
electroplated with slainless steel instead.
From: cf036@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (G. Gary Preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Firepot on a forge (what is it for)
Date: 2 Jan 1993 18:58:08 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc10.ins.cwru.edu


This may seem to be a weird suggestion, but when I was younger
I built a forge out of an Hibachi and a blower.  I got tired
of paying for a lot of gas just for heating up chunks of steel
I wanted to hammer and bend and one day I got the idea of
combining my Thrifty Drug Store hibachi (small Japanese
charcol burning grill) and a loose electric blower.  The
result was astounding.  When loaded with charcol and cranked up,
it roared and heated even large chunks of iron with amazing
rapidity.  It also had the other advantages that if you wanted
hamburgers rapidly, it started fast (no blowing or lighter
fluid needed) and it cooked (burned, but I was young) ground
beef in an admirably short time.  Simple to make, too.  You
just duct the blower in at the draught gate in the bottom of
the hibachi.  Since hibachis (in those days) were made of cast
iron, metal thickness was not a concern.  All told, almost
everything was done for you and you got a small forge that was
light, fast and easy to use, and had culinary uses besides.

G.
From: okunewck@psuvax1.cs.psu.edu (Phil OKunewick)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: auto body solder
Date: 22 Dec 92 22:49:49 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Random, at best


   I use solder when replacing panels on my jeep.

   Body putty can flake away.  If any gap opens up, water will get in,
rust the steel, and push the flake away, leaving more room for water
to get in...

   Lead flows better, then stays flexible.  Bending the fender won't
usually crack the repair.  I think it also behaves like galvanized
steel, setting up a steel-corrosion-resistant electrical field.

   The biggest problem I have is cleaning and tinning.  It takes a lot
of scrubbing and acid washing to get the steel to that wonderful bare
gray that takes solder so well.  But when it's ready, I tin the metal
with a strong acid flux, scrub away the excess molten solder, rivet a
piece of sheet metal on, then sweat the joint to seal it.  The rivets
look ugly, but hey - it's a jeep.  Rivets placed 1" to 2" apart work
best; any more and the metal warps from heat.
From: okunewck@psuvax1.cs.psu.edu (Phil OKunewick)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Stuck parts (Re: ahhhh it's good to be home)
Keywords: fellow metal lovers unite
Date: 23 Dec 92 19:33:42 GMT
Organization: Random, at best

ijeff@hank.carleton.ca (Ian Jefferson) writes:
>Here is a question for someone that has puzzled me for years:
>
> [ nuts and bolts ]
>When seperating two metal parts, usually steel and steel, it has been
>common pratice to apply heat to the parts to free them.  The effect
>is especially noticable in steel on steel parts.  Why does this help?
>I first though that expansion of the heated part might be the reason but
>in the case of a bolt in a caseing it seems to be more effective to heat
>the bolt rather than the caseing. 

   Somebody else posted the reasons why this might work.  Now here's a
no-heat alternative:

   Pound on one of the stuck parts, driving it directly into the
other.  If its a stuck lug nut, put a wrench socket onto an extension
that just fits over the stud, so as to pound the nut into the wheel.
Don't be afraid to convince the mess that you mean business - hit it
HARD!  (Any good socket has an unconditional guarantee, but can take
this abuse anyway.)

   This will break rust bonds and stretch/compress everything just a
little bit.  In many cases the stuck part will then spin right off.
I've used this successfully to remove lug nuts, lug bolts, exhaust
manifold studs, you name it.  (A friend showed me this after popping a
couple sockets and breaking a breaker bar on some Audi lug bolts.)

   Use discretion of course.  The object is to disassemble things, not
destroy them.

   Another alternative is to apply drops of muriatic acid right onto
the rusted joint.  It will take several applications over many hours
or days to eat all the way through the joint.  This will also remove
any protective coating the parts have, which will cause them to rust
badly afterwards.

   The last choice is to destroy one of the parts, using an electric
drill, cold chisels, and/or a nut cracker.  If you're good with a
cutting torch that might work too, as the bolt can stay cool enough
that only the nut gets burned.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: rmt@pioneer.net.com (Richard Tweedie)
Subject: Re: Cheap source for Air hardening tool steel
Organization: Network Equipment Technologies
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 00:57:26 GMT

In article <BzoH8r.2M6@news.cso.uiuc.edu> cbl@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu writes:
>In article <1992Dec22.195211.28944@pb2esac.uucp>, kamooni@pb2esac.uucp (Ken Moonitz) writes:
>>In article <Bzo01o.J18@news.cso.uiuc.edu> cbl@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu writes:
>>What you should be asking for is 7/8" "drill rod".  And yes $60.
>>is high.  KBC tools here in Calif has it for $16.70.... Ken
>
>
>	Could you get me a phone number for KBC? I tried to send
>	email but it bounced. If ayone else knows of places in the chicago area
>	that would have that kind of stuff, I'm dying to know. Most
>	of the places one finds in the yellow pages are not really
>	oriented to machine shop supply. 
>>
>*1110 W. Green/Urbana IL 61801/217-333-0505/cbl@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu 

Drill Rod is readily available here in the Bay Area, but is high 
carbon tool steel--not air hardening but water or oil hardening
(depending on size and application).  My usual supply is Orchard
supply (a hardware store)--many hardware stores in the west carry
drill rod up to 1" size (usually in 1/8" increments).

Rich Tweedie
From: jb@falstaff.MAE.CWRU.Edu (Jim Berilla)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: photo lithography of plates
Date: 23 Dec 1992 15:44:45 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio, USA
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: falstaff.mae.cwru.edu

In article <2934165545.2.p00140@psilink.com>, "Gary A. Woodward" <p00140@psilink.com> writes:
|> Does any one have a good reference source for the photo (micro) etching 
|> of metal plates?

Kodak had a publication titled "Photfabrication methods with Kodak photoresists",
ISBN 0-87985-013-2, publication G-184, catalog number 133 2899.  It's 32 pages,
and has some good guidelines.

But, Kodak sold their photoresist product line to Union Carbide.  Union Carbide
then split up the product line and sold part to London Chemical (I believe) and
the other part to some microelectronics supply company.

You might try calling Kodak to see if they still have any copies in stock.  They
might give you a pointer on where to get a copy if they don't have any.  Or try
calling London Chemical.

-- 
      Jim Berilla / jb@falstaff.MAE.cwru.edu / +1 216 368 6776
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: ara@wam.umd.edu (Ford Prefect)
Subject: Firepot on a forge (what is it for)
Organization: University of Maryland, College Park
Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1993 16:03:35 GMT

Hi all.

What is the purpose of the "Firepot" on a coal forge?
also, does anyone have any advice on constructing a small coal forge
such as what guage metal to make it out of and how to do it
on a low low low low budget?
Im  thinking of something about 2 feet wide and 3 feet long.
also also, does anyone know where I can get anvil tools cheap, as in
someone who want to get rid of them?

-ara

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking