HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jward@aries.acs.uci.edu (John Ward)
Subject: Fluval #303 part question
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Organization: University of California, Irvine
Date: 26 Aug 92 20:31:45 GMT
Distribution: na

I have a second hand Fluval #303 canister filter.  The piece that holds
impeller shaft to motor housing assembly broke.  Since I don't have the
instructions that I presume came with a parts list and diagram, I would
appreciate some help identifying the correct part.

The TFP catalog lists replacement parts but doesn't show a diagram.
Here are the two most likely parts:
Impeller Well Cover #A15820 Fits #303, #403
Well Insert #A15810 Fits #303, #403

The local fish store that carries Fluvals didn't carry this part and
didn't have a parts list with the correct name or number. Sigh.

thanks,
John.
--
John Ward    UC Irvine, Department of Redundancy Department
email: jward@uci.edu or jward@uci.bitnet
     "Time flies like an eagle.  Fruit flies like a banana."
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:4859 sci.aquaria:1321 rec.aquaria:7033
From: lim@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,sci.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: (M) KC Marine Club - guest speakers
Date: 2 Sep 92 12:23:30 CDT
Organization: University of Kansas Academic Computing Services

Kansas City Marine Club will be inviting some famous/well known people to 
speak.

Sept 12		Dr. Fautin
		Dr. Buddemeier

Oct 10		Scott Michaels
		Charles Delbeek

Dec 12		Julian Sprung

Time		2:00-4:00 pm
Location	KCI Marriott Hotel
Admission	$15.00 per person or $10.00 for member

For more Info	913-862-1068

==============================================================================
                                                 from Lim  --- the fish nut

US Postal Address: Computer Center, University of Kansas, 
                   Lawrence, KS 66044           
Internet Address:  lim@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu
Bitnet Address:    lim@ukanvax.bitnet

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:4817 rec.aquaria:6967 sci.aquaria:1310
From: derrick@meaddata.com (Derrick Tatem)
Subject: Dupla USA Products
Organization: Mead Data Central, Dayton OH
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 18:37:22 GMT
Distribution: na

Hello fans of aquaria:

Does anyone know if Dupla has a catalog for us aquaria fans to place
orders from? If there is one, could someone please e-mail me the
address and/or telephone number? Thanks in advance.
-- 
Derrick M. Tatem
Mead Data Central, Dayton, Ohio
Internet: derrick@meaddata.com
UUCP:     !uunet!meaddata!derrick
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: cjwhite@IASTATE.EDU (Carter J White)
Subject: Wound on Purple Paradise Fish
Reply-To: cjwhite@IASTATE.EDU (Carter J White)
Organization: Iowa State University
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 16:05:38 GMT


	Hey Netland I need some help....

	I got a pair of purple paradise fish about two weeks ago and the male has
developed a sore near the tail (caudal) fin.  I've read in a few books that
gouramies get these but no cures are given.  Has anyone had this problem and how
did you cure the fish? 
	 My worst fear is that I will have to "put the fish down" because the S.O.
REALLY LIKEs these fish and got them for me (read her).
	Please email me as soon as possible.

		Thanks,

			CW

 
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: bruceg@Cadence.COM (Bruce Gustifson)
Subject: Re: Kalkwasser (Kent Marine)
Organization: Cadence Design Systems, Inc.
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 19:09:58 GMT

In article <1992Aug21.051309.2400@mr.med.ge.com> bednarek@picard.med.ge.com (Dennis Bednarek Mfg 4-6971) writes:
>
>What is Kalwasser?
>
>Dennis
>
>
>--
  Kalwasser is a new non-alcoholic beer from eheimweiser-busch.
>
>  
>###############################################################################
>###NEVER - NEVERMORE###########################################################
>###############################################################################
>####################################What are the contents of the oblong box?##
>###############################################################################
>  The usual disclaimer of self and employer applies to all above comments.
>#
From: root@clsun1cl.dupont.com (Operator)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Aquarium Store Inventory Control
Date: 31 Aug 92 14:06:42 GMT
Organization: DuPont Engineering Physics Laboratory

Hi,

	I am an active reef keeper and have been asked by the owner of
my local Fish Store to help him setup a PC based inventory and 
accounting system for his store. We would like to be able to track
inventory, do the accounting, use the system as the store cash
register, print price labels, and other such nice things.
	Due to the nature of his store, a marine reef exclusive store, the
metal in the store has a tendency to rust easily. Also he is looking at opening another store in a year or two.
	The system we would like to design would have several components. The first system would be a PC located in his home so he can do much of the bookkeeping and other such activities there. The second system would be located in the store and would function as the cash register. This system would track the inventory changes over the day and would transmit the changes to the home-based PC at the end of the day. (via either a floppy or a dialup modem).
Lastly we are in stalling a system to track the water conditions in the stores many tanks. We would like to be able to give the customer a printout of the water conditions that the coral and/or fish has been in for the last several days. Items on the chart would be temperature, salinity, PH, and ORP.

	I work in the computer field designing computer networks on VAXs and Unix workstatiooons. I am familar with PCs but do not follow the software packages. Have any of you out there use or have use a small business
accounting system that can do this. Any suggestions would be greatly
apprciated

	Scott Buchanan
	buchansh@cloc.dnet.dupont.com
--
From: fssmith@ariel.lerc.nasa.gov (Greg Smith)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: baby bubble coral
Date: 28 Aug 92 19:38:00 GMT
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41


    I posted the following paragraph a few weeks ago

<    This morning I noticed a small, .75 inch diameter whitish green mass on
<the bottom of my 135 gallon reef tank.  Upon closer examination I was able to
<identify it as a small bubble coral.  It has a small mouth  at its center and
<it does not appear to have a calcareous base.  A long time ago a piece of a
<larger bubble coral started to elongate past the end of the coral base.  After
<a month or so the extended piece fell off and down into the rock work of the
<tank.  That piece became attached to a piece of dead organ pipe coral and
<continued to live for over a year.  Since then I had purchased a hard plate
<like coral and placed it in such a manner that it blocked most to all of the
<light reaching the small bubble coral.  About a month or so ago I noticed that
<the small bubble coral was no longer in its original position.  Perhaps the
<coral I noticed this morning was the piece that attached to the dead organ pipe
<coral and decided that it should seek a better home or perhaps or perhaps, less
<likely, one of the larger bubble corals in the tank released another baby.
<(Surely I would have noticed it). 

<    If I can find the baby bubble when I get home after work today, I will try
<to isolate it in a plastic mesh structure with a small rock inside for it to
<attach to.  I have used this method somewhat successfully for small pieces of
<xenia. 

    I thought I would update everyone on what happened.  I made a small 3 inch
by two inch by one inch deep basket out of the plastic canvas mesh they sell in
craft stores.  I glued the sides together with a hot glue gun.  I placed the
coral in a small depression in a piece of live rock and hung the basket
containing the live rock and baby coral from a piece of plexiglass such that
the coral was about 1 inch under the water surface and out of direct light from
the metal halides.  The coral was doing fine until I started trying to feed
it thawed frozen brine shrimp.  It appears that some of the shrimp didn't get 
eaten and started to rot.  The decay spread to the baby bubble coral and caused
it to rot also.

    Lessons learned...  Next time I will increase the current in the basket
by placing it in a different location.  I will also remove any food that has
not been eaten within an hour or so.  I occasionally find these small corals 
in the tank and now I am ready for them.

Greg Smith
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: dhiggs@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (General Protection Fault)
Subject: Re: Siphons and canister filters; WAS <None>
Organization: is the refuge of the unimaginative!
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1992 22:56:21 GMT


In article <1992Aug29.145942.6335@iscsvax.uni.edu> nissen6318@iscsvax.uni.edu w
rites:
+I HAVE A QUESTION ABOUT USING A POWERHEAD IN A SEALED CANISTER FILTER INSTEAD
+OF A EXPENCIVE WATER PUMP.  I THOUGHT THAT IF THE SYSTEM WAS SEALED THAT
+THE SYPHON ACTION WOULD DO MOST OF THE WATER MOVING WORK.  BUT I'M NOT TOTALLY
+SURE OF THIS AND WOULD LIKE TO IF ANYONE OUT THERE KNOWS IF THIS IS POSABLE.
+THIS IS MY FIRST TIME POSTING A QUESTION SO IF I MESSED UP I WOULD LIKE TO
+KNOW WHAT I DID WRONG.  THANKS FOR YOUR HELP.
+
+
+                     BRIAN NISSEN
Two things for you Brian,

     1) STOP YELLING!  All capitals is hard on the eyes and I know a lot of
people who won't even read the subject line for an article in all caps.  Other
than that, a pretty good first posting.

     2) An answer to your query -
          The siphon action will help in the initial filling of your canister
filter system. period, end of story.  Once the water level in the lines to and
from your canister equalizes with the water level in the tank all siphon
activity stops dead.  A siphon is driven by gravity.  Once there is no net
change in the water level from where it enters the tubing to wher it exits
there is no work to be done and the flow stops there.  So, yes, a power head
or some other kind of pumping mechanism is a necessity.

Hope to see you around some more.

Keith.
-- 
D.K.Higgs  DATA+@osu.edu  a.k.a  dhiggs@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu _____   __o
Ohio State University Libraries, Acquisitions Department      -------    -\<,
Continuation Acquisition Division                              ------ ( )/ ( )
~~(614)292-6314~~~~~~fax(614)292-2015~~~~~~~~~~\_________/~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: wkb@cbnews.cb.att.com (wm.keith.brummett)
Subject: Re: penguin filters
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 01:23:01 GMT


    In a previous post in which I resonded about penguins filters, my text
    editor ate part of a line.

	"They all have."

    should have been:

	"They all have the Bio-wheels."


    -- Keith

-- 
    | (614) 860-3187         Copyright (C) 1992, by       AT&T, Room 3B202 |
    | att!cblph!wkb  or,     W.K. Brummett and AT&T      6200 E. Broad St. |
    | wkb@cblph.att.com       All rights reserved.      Columbus, OH 43213 |
    `----------------------------------------------------------------------'
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: jamesb (James Bahn)
Subject: Re: Penguin Power Filters....
Organization: The Santa Cruz Operation, Inc.
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 17:56:49 GMT


In article <1992Aug21.120844.42482@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu> thompson@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu writes:
>Greetings...
>Do penguins supply sufficient biological filtration?

I've been using Penguin 160s on 20-gal freshwater tanks for
4 years.  I typically keep nearly the maximum recommended
number of fish, and don't overfeed, and I've never ever
had problems with ammonia or nitrites.  Having said that,
I've now standardized on Penguin 300s.  Much better design.

PS...I don't use the biowheels...they're too noisy for me.
Anyone want some free biowheels?

Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: penfold@bnr.ca (Harvey Schwartz)
Subject: Filtration for Marine Aquariums
Reply-To: penfold@bnr.ca
Organization: BNR, Inc.  Richardson, Texas
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 20:56:04 GMT


I'd like some suggestions for filters for marine aquariums.  I've been
using under-gravel filters and they seem to work ok, but I was wondering
if there are other kinds that work better.
--

Cheers,
Harvey

??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
??                   ??                                                 ??
??  Harvey Schwartz  ??  Since no one ever wants to share my opinions,  ??      
??  penfold@bnr.ca   ??  they are obviously mine alone.                 ??
??                   ??                                                 ??
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????

Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: Dmerrill@bnr.ca (Dana Merrill)
Subject: Re: more DIY w/d questions
Followup-To: alt.aquaria
Organization: BNR
Date: Wed, 02 Sep 1992 18:23:18 GMT

In article <1992Sep2.153714.24760@unislc.uucp>, livings@unislc.uucp (Ross
Livingston) wrote:
> 
> 1) Is pvc primer and glue (the kind used to join pipes in sprinkler systems,
>    etc.) toxic?  I probably won't need glue for the pipe joints, as they
>    won't be under pressure, but I have another idea that would require me to
>    glue pvc.  If pvc glue is bad, what is a substitute?  Will acrylic cement
>    work on pvc, or is pvc the same thing as acrylic?

Bound to be pretty safe, as I believe that it is used extensively in
residential plumbing. (This includes incoming water (ie. drinking water
supply), not just the sewer like it used to be). If its safe enough to
drink then it should be safe enough for the fish tank.  (Although I admit
that it was probably the fish tank that finally motivated me to install a
carbon water filter on my kitchen sink so I would have declorinated and
dewhatevered water for the fish!)

(If its not PVC that is used then it is similar (called ABS or something). 
I would recommend you ask at the hardware store which is used for
residential water supply plumbing and go with that (and its glue) for the
filter.)

Also I'd think you will need to glue all joints (why not?; its simple)
unless there will be negative pressure on them in which case air will leak
into the pipes without glue.


Good luck
From: infante@acpub.duke.edu (Andrew  Infante)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: CO2 and fish health
Date: 28 Aug 92 16:47:03 GMT
Organization: Duke University; Durham, N.C.

I have a question here about using CO2 in a plant tank...

At what point are you adding too much CO2?

I would figure that addign CO2 to water might have an adverse effect on
the fish as they need oxygen to live right?  

Is there a saturation point that will allow enough CO2 for the plants and
enough oxygen for the fish?

Or can you just add the CO2 and get a air pump or something to increase
the surface agitation - or is the CO2 going to the plants going to
significantly increase the O2 coing out of the plants for the fish?

later.

andy
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:4816 rec.aquaria:6965
From: putzolu@toadflax.cs.ucdavis.edu (David Putzolu)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [M] Brown algae, new tank, what does this mean?
Date: 1 Sep 92 05:49:19 GMT
Followup-To: alt.aquaria
Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of California, Davis

In article <1992Aug31.145650.24750@bnr.ca> brunner@crchh447.bnr.ca (James Brunner) writes:
>I recently purchased a second-hand marine tank (35 gal hex).  The last of the
>previous owner's fish had died about three weeks before he sold the tank.  He
>hadn't been feeding it I think.  I didn't add fish until about 3 weeks after
>that.  So, six weeks without fish or food.  The tank always had water.
>
>Now, people on the net said that the bio filter was probably dead because of
>no ammonia/nitrite to feed on (yes, ammonia and nitrite were at 0 when I 
>purchased the tank and stayed that way.
>
>I bought 2 small yellowtail damsels (not much in a 35 gal tank, I think).
I think you are ok here, at least from my (small) experience, (large)
readings, and (fair sized) advice from netexperts.

>I regularly mesured ammonia and nitrite.  It's been 4 weeks and I never saw
>any ammonia or nitrite.
Congratulations. Sounds like the tank is cycled.

> Now, a brown algae is starting to form on the rocks
>and glass.  Is this an indication that the tank is cycled (maybe the old
>bio-filter wasn't dead?).  I havn't been measuring nitrates, maybe I should
>start.
Brown algae - sounds like nitrates to me. Your tank may be _very_
high in nitrates, particularly if dead fish were allowed to decompose
in it for a bit. Damsels are tough, but you should probably change the
water in there (and maybe wash some of the gravel too - who knows what
bacteria are in it from the deaths of the previous guests). Brown algae
is _not_ harmful to damsels (or most other fish) in itself.

This may be obvious, but make sure any water you add to the tank has
sat for at least 24 hours. The same holds for any water used to
clean your gravel. If you do not 'age' your water it will contain
chlorine - and promptly kill the bacteria in your bio filter. 

>-- 
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Jim Brunner - (brunner@bnr.ca)
>All opinions are my own and have nothing whatsoever to do with BNR, NT,
>NTI, Bell Canada, or any of the BCE corporations or affiliates.

| David M. A. Putzolu               | putzolu@cs.ucdavis.edu              |
| Senior Undergraduate              | op disclaimer(opinion : ptr mine)   |
| Computer Science and Psychology   |      Money? Who needs money?        |
| University of California at Davis |          I've got fish!             |
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: bednarek@picard.med.ge.com (Dennis Bednarek Mfg 4-6971)
Subject: lights fresh water
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 92 10:53:14 GMT



Is anybody writing a faq on fresh water lighting?  that should be on high 
priority?  Especially bandwidts of various light bulbs, and what is desirable
for what plants and what is undesirable.

how about it sombody?


--

  
###############################################################################
###NEVER - NEVERMORE###########################################################
###############################################################################
####################################What are the contents of the oblong box?##
###############################################################################
  The usual disclaimer of self and employer applies to all above comments.
#
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:4758 rec.aquaria:6838 sci.aquaria:1287
From: sh240031@wvnvms.wvnet.edu
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
Subject: [M][R] Poly-Filters?????
Date: 27 Aug 92 12:35:59 GMT
Organization: West Virginia Network for Educational Telecomputing

I've been using Poly Filters from Poly Bio Marine for about a year and they
seem to do a fantastic job of removing unwanted things from my water. 

Now that I have progressed into the reef environmemt and I am adding Ca 
(Seachem Calcium Gultamate), Iodine, and strontium/molybdenum to my
tank, it would seem that the very same Poly-filters that remove the bad
things are in turn removing the good.

Is this a valid conclusion?  Should I discontinue use?  My water quality
is very good now that mI have removed my UGF and have a good base of live
rock.

Any comments are encouraged.

			     Carl	
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: anbo@wuee1.wustl.edu (Albrecht Jander)
Subject: Re: CO2 and fish health
Organization: Washington University, St. Louis Mo.
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 15:47:05 GMT

In article <4958@news.duke.edu> infante@acpub.duke.edu (Andrew  Infante) writes:
>I have a question here about using CO2 in a plant tank...
>
>At what point are you adding too much CO2?

When the pH gets too low!

>I would figure that addign CO2 to water might have an adverse effect on
>the fish as they need oxygen to live right?  

Wrong.  The CO2 does not displace the oxygen.  The CO2 concentration does
not *directly* affect the O2 concentration.  In fact, using CO2 will 
probably indirectly increase the amount of oxygen in you tank, since the
plants will have plenty of CO2 to make O2 out of. (Sorry about the preposition,
english teachers).  The only problem will be at night, when both the fish
and the plants use oxygen.  You may need to aerate when the lights are off.

>Is there a saturation point that will allow enough CO2 for the plants and
>enough oxygen for the fish?

You can measure CO2 concentration chemically, but most people just go 
by the pH.

>Or can you just add the CO2 and get a air pump or something to increase
>the surface agitation - 

Usually when you add CO2, you DON'T want surface agitation, because the
CO2 will go out as fast as you can put it in the water.  You may need to
turn off the CO2 and/or aerate at night.

>                      - or is the CO2 going to the plants going to
>significantly increase the O2 coing out of the plants for the fish?

Right!

>
>later.
Later.
>
>andy
Albrecht
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
                        Peltier was a cool dude!!
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
From: jony@microsoft.com (Jon Yeargers)
Subject: Re: Dupla USA Products
Date: 03 Sep 92 15:43:13 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp.
Distribution: usa

hmmm. there seems to be a misunderstanding.. I would like someone
to post the address to mailorder dupla products. Thanks, Jonny Y
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:4740 rec.aquaria:6811
From: mstephens.520@postman.gsfc.nasa.gov (mark stephens)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: (FW) on UGFs and plants
Date: 26 Aug 92 19:42:00 GMT
Organization: nasa/gsfc

There have been several postings on how plants just don't do
well with undergravel filters (UGFs).  I'm sure that George
Booth is getting tired of replying that this is just not
true, at least in his case.  (If I may be so bold, George.)

I'd just like to point out that there are few trueisms in this 
hobby.  One of my all time favorates that meet a swift death was
"light causes algae".  There are other examples and perhaps
"UGFs and plants don't mix" is one of them.  

I would hazard that most folk which have UGFs and attempt to 
grow plants are 1) just starting out and don't know what they
are doing and/or 2) the UGF has turned into a nitrate pump and 
the water is just too damn poluted to grow plants.  

I've had UGFed tanks in high school and remember having very 
good luck with swords and other hardy plants.  And I sure
didn't know about no nitrogen cycle then either.

Now if George fires back that is UGF plant tank has nitrates
higher than 50 ppm, we can scratch number 2!

               mark
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: bovine@engin.umich.edu (Mitchell Rohde)
Subject: Gravel, what is the best way to clean it?
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 92 11:47:49 EDT
Organization: University of Michigan Engineering, Ann Arbor

  What is the best way to clean coarse stone type gravel?

 Y'know, like the colored kind that has nice, smooth round
B
  woops, about 1/8" in diam?

  I've tried strainers, atc.. but the gravel either slips though,
 or the water cannot seem to go through the setup and take all of the
 dirt with it.

  HELP!
.
.

S
D
C
C
C
C
    fake pebbles about 1/8
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria