HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Nf-ID: #R:hydra.gatech.EDU:79381:trsvax:1195667335:000:2013
Nf-From: trsvax.tandy.com!earl    Jan  8 08:23:00 1993



/* ---------- "Attaching canopy to fuselage" ---------- */
I am just finishing a Super Sportster 40.  The last thing that I need to do
is glue the canopy to the fuselage.  The instructions mention using CA glue
but I was wondering if epoxy or some other glue might be better.  Also, 
should I glue the canopy to the monocote or should I cut the monocote where
the canopy touches the fuselage?  I would appreciate any advice or personal
experiences.
Thanks,
Michael
-- 
JONES,MICHAEL D.
Georgia Institute of Technology, Atlanta Georgia, 30332
uucp:	  ...!{decvax,hplabs,ncar,purdue,rutgers}!gatech!prism!mj4
Internet: mj4@prism.gatech.edu
**********************************************************

   I would highly recommend using RC-56 glue. It works great, but tends to be a 
   little slow for drying time (circa overnight to 24 hrs). RC56 is very similar
   to silicon RTV adhesive, but is thinner. It starts out looking like white glue
   but dries to a clear texture.

    CA has a tendency to not work at all with clear plastic canopies. You will
       definitely need a CA accellerator to kick it off, plus you need four
       hands to hold and glue everything.

    Silicon Adhesives (RTV), I've had mixed success with it, it seems to work
       OK, but doesn't adhere to the canopy well in some places, this the
       canopy tends to come loose (or off) after a while. Plus the RTV looks
       lumpy and ugly on some models.

    RC56, amazingly enough, seems to work the best. 



***********************************************************************


<This information is provided by an individual and is not nor should be
 construed  as  being  provided  by  Radio  Shack or Tandy Corp.  Radio
 Shack/Tandy Corp has no obligation to support the information provided
 in  any way. > 
						
						Earl W. Bollinger
						@ <earl@trsvax>


"You were in the Clone Wars!", said Luke excitedly.
"Yes", replied Obi Wan, "I was a DOS programmer. But that was before the dark
 times, before OS2."


Xref: sparky rec.models.rc:5283 news.answers:4897
From: root@austin.ibm.com ()
Subject: Re: Building Board
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 23:04:12 GMT
Distribution: usa
Reply-To: krueger@austin.ibm.com
Organization: IBM Austin

In article <C0Htu5.Dp2@csn.org>, eeak@teal.csn.org (Ed Krejcik) writes:
> Here's a new thread that should start some lively conversation...
> 
> What do you all use for a building board?  I'm going on 
> building my third plane now and I'm planning on putting
> together a more robust build board.  Any ideas?
> -- 
> *** Ed Krejcik     

I have a 36" exterior door sitting in my bedroom on top of 3
old TV trays.  I cut a 36" wide piece of sheetrock that lays
on top of the door.  When the sheetrock gets too raggedy, I
turn it over.

I got the sheetrock from lumber yard scrap (4X8' sheets with
one busted corner) for <free> (relative works there).

Only caution is - put waxed paper under any pieces that you are
going to glue if you don't want the paper facing from the
sheetrock glued to your work.

+------------------------------+------------------------------------+
|  Tom "Krash" Krueger         |    IBM Adv. Wrkstn. & Sys. Division|
|  AMA 374525                  |    Austin, Texas                   |
|  krueger@austin.ibm.com      |    "Home of the RISC System/6000"  |
+------------------------------+------------------------------------+


Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Organization: University of Maine System
Date: Monday, 11 Jan 1993 11:58:23 EST
From: <IO10046@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: FORSALE: Kyosho Monster Truck Mega Motors (reverse)

I have about 10 Kyosho Monster Truck Mega motors forsale.  They
are all reverse rotation.  They are brand new and still in their
orignal boxes.  I will sell them for $10 each which INCLUDES
shipping in the US.  If you by more than two, then I will sell
them for $8 each which includes shipping.

E-mail me if you are interested.

Aaron Brasslett
University of Maine
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: jrp@bohra.cpg.oz.au (John Pitman)
Subject: FAQ
Organization: Computer Power Software Group Pty Ltd
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 04:29:30 GMT

Hi there all,
Am I mistaken? It looks to me as though there are some areas not covered in the
current FAQ that may be useful. As an instructor with my club, I get to see a
lot of strange things on 'aeroplanes'. I have written some notes for beginners
which we publish in our newsletter from time to time to help newcomers, and I
think some of the topics would be useful in the FAQ.
The things that come to mind are very basic and mundane to many of us, but when
a newcomer dives in headfirst, he can make a lot of mistakes. the sort of things
I am thinking of are :  the need for straightness (compared to C/L),
	the need to have small (preferably seaqled) gaps at hinge lines,
	check the hinges for strength and attachment security,
	preferably straight pushrods, not kinked,
	attaching nyrod outers to start and end holes, and midway,
	assembling tanks correctly and checking for leaks,position of re engine,
	checking wings for warps (home made incidence meters) and fixing them,
	rigging of control horns and pushrods (at 90 degrees etc)
	fitting keepers on clevises, using threaded ends into clevises (not glue),
	when to use epoxy, Ca, white glue,
	installing servos,
	choice of radio (channels, dry vs nicd, value for $),
	choice of covering colours for visibility,
	size of beginner plane,
	etc.
does any body think it is worth posting this sort of stuff, and should it get
added to the FAQ????
jp
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: ANDERCD@wsuvm1.csc.wsu.edu
Subject: Re: Engine problems
Organization: SYSTEMS & COMPUTING
Date: Tue, 05 Jan 93 11:20:37 PST

 
I am currently having engine problems with a repaired Fox 40. The engine
was crashed in such a way that it destroyed the carburator and
sucked a lot of grit into it. I have replaced the carburator and cleaned
the engine out and installed it in a new plane. The problem is that I can't
get it to run for more than about 2 seconds. If I squirt fuel into the air
intake, the engine will start but does not appear to draw any fuel from the
line and just stops after a couple seconds. The lines are clear since with
everything dry, I can blow into the muffler line and hear air coming out
in the carburator. The following are the possible causes I can decide for it.
 
1. The model is built in such a fashion that the tank is fairly low relative
to the engine. The engine is side mounted with the fuel intake on top and
the intake is level with the top of the tank. Also, the plane is a tail
dragger and that places the tank lower than the engine when on the ground.
I can't get the tank any higher or the engine any lower, do I need a pump?
 
2. The piston and liner got scratched in the crash by the grit and when I
squirt WD40 into the cylinder and turn the prop, I get a little escaping
gas as the piston approaches the top. As I loosing so much compression that
the crankcase suction that is supposed to draw fuel in is failing? How can
I test this and what is the solution?
 
3. I have set the needle valves according to the Fox literature but am
uncertain if they are right. Can someone with a properly adjusted
Fox .40 BB engine measure the amount of exposed thread on both needles
so I can check my setting? also, does the end of you high speed needle
have a bit of metal sticking off of one end or is the end of the needle
flat?
 
4. Is there any parts on the crankshaft directly below the carburator
that help the fuel draw that might have been damaged in the crash?
If so, how do you remove the bearings and crankshaft to check this?
When I cleaned the engine, I could not find a decent way to remove
these parts without major force being applied.
 
Any other ideas? or is it time to buy a new engine?
--
Randy Buckland                               "It's hard to work
North Carolina State University               in a group when you're
randy_buckland@ncsu.edu (919) 515-5491        omnipotent"       -- Q
 
 
time to buy a new engine!
 
 
 
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: mmcevill@mitre.org (Michael A. McEvilley)
Subject: Re: Rocket powered R/C (Estes Astro Blaster)
Organization: The MITRE Corporation
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 13:45:15 GMT

I was searching thru old issues of RCM last nite for other information and 
came across reviews of the Estes Astro Blaster and also the Phoenix, which 
is some other companies (Aero-Tech???) rocket glider.   The Phoenix is a glider with conventional design (i.e., horizontal stab, rudder) and I think the price for a complete system (included launcher, etc) was $189.

If you are interested I will get the specific references for you.

 
Michael

Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: plb@dcdwest.uucp (Phil Blais)
Subject: Re: smoke systems for YS120FS
Organization: ITT Aerospace/Communications Division - West
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 93 19:00:22 GMT

In article <1993Jan6.141743.16200@aio.jsc.nasa.gov> goza@norm.JSC.NASA.GOV (Mike Goza) writes:
>Does anyone out in netland have experience with smoke systems on
>YS120FS engines?  Which ones are available?  Which are the best
>based on experience?
>
>The only one I have been able to find commercially is one made by
>AMP 912-367-0567.  It comes with a preheater, pump and valve for
>$50.00.  It sounds like it would work fine, but I would like to
>hear peoples experiences.  This is my first smoke system and I 
>would like to get it right the first time! ;)
>
>Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
>Thanks,
>Mike Goza
>goza@cheers.jsc.nasa.gov
>

Don Harris Products makes a beautful Pitts style muffler/smoke system
for the YS-120. The cost is around $100.00 which includes muffler,
pump and check valve, you supply heat resistant tubing and battery.
I have one of Don's systems on a 1/4 scale Starduster Too with
Zenoah G-62 engine and another on a Goldberg Extra 300 with YS-120FS.
Both systems work very well. For smoke fluid I've used Texaco Almag,
a light grade lubricant, and Dick Bennett's Smoke Fluid, both smoke
quite well. Harris Products is in California and the last phone number
I had for him is (916) 269-1164.

-- 
=========================================================================
phil blais  N6KXD AMA 12662      ITT    Aerospace Communications Division
dcdwest!plb@ucsd.edu           DEFENSE    10060 Carroll Canyon Road
 (619) 578-3080					San Diego, CA 92131
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: mgwheele@author.ecn.purdue.edu (Matthew G Wheeler)
Subject: Re: Training on PC's (repost)
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 17:52:24 GMT

In article <1993Jan6.183336.20971@klaava.Helsinki.FI> linkosal@klaava.Helsinki.FI (Tapio Linkosalo) writes:
>Brian Marshall Sadler (bms7y@ggsun.ee.Virginia.EDU) wrote:
>> I was surprised when I got no reply (over the holidays)
>> so here I go again...
>> 
>> Anybody using Microsoft Flight Simulator for training?
>> How about other software? 
>
>I just flew MS FS today, but there are a few snags in using it for
>model training: the plane changes to a point too soon as you
>fly away, and if you lose horizont (easily!) you have no idea
>how high you are. Nice simulator, though.
>
Just hit the '+' and '-' keys occationally to zoom in and out to keep the
field of view that you want.  I've put in many hours training for RC flight
using the MS FS.  I think it sped up my learning a lot. With the aircraft
design feature you can set up a plane to have similar flight characteristics
and colors to your model.

Matt
From: james@koko.csustan.edu (Jonas Grumpy)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: A few questions from a beginner.
Date: 6 Jan 93 20:35:02 GMT
Organization: CSU Stanislaus

Hi I am new to this hobby. I have a few questions that were not answered
by the FAQ.

	1) When I see a gas plane advertised as 3 channel. Do these
	include: elevator,rudder&throttle. 

	2) If the plane has no aileron control. And very little or
	   no dihedral. Can it still turn?

	3) I have decided on an engine size of .10. How much Nitro
	should I buy my fuel with?

	4) How do these diesel engines get adjusted? You'd have
 	to be VERY steady handed to get near that adjusting "T" 
	 with the prop spinning 1" away!!

	5) Will a diesel engine of a given disp put out more
	  power?

	6) I have seen many ads for radios and have settled on
	  a four channel from airtronics or futaba. What
	do all the Nbl,nbf and all that stand for. If I 
	buy a radio kit now with 3 servos can I add a 4th later
	if I put it in a plane with aileron control? WITHOUT
 	buying a new receiver? What is servo reverse? Whats the
	pros and cons of AM vs FM. Are they disallowed in certain
	areas? Can the servos be put in a glider?

	7) Do ailerons work 180deg out of sync or am I confusing
	this with flaps.

	8) How do those hand held starters work? Do they just
	interface on the nut/prop or do you have to have a cone
	there?

	9) Is balsa/wood construction the best for someone who contemplates
	  many repairs due to crashes, or is foam/plastic better because
	its stronger.

	Thats all for now. Thanks. If you want you could reply via
	email then I will post the q's and a's or mail them
	to the FAQ man.
-- 
C MYSIG  ASIG4U 1RADSIG 2BADSIG SIG U 2     U R SIG   1SIGDOG    ADOTSIG
 				The above advice is not to be taken seriously!
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: bob@harrier.demon.co.uk (Bob day)
Subject: Re: Pica P-51 (was: Great Planes P-51 & 4-stroke) 
Distribution: world
Organization: Harrier Softnet Ltd
Reply-To: bob@harrier.demon.co.uk
X-Mailer: Simple NEWS 1.90 (ka9q DIS 1.19)
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 11:23:17 +0000

>
>Sorry, not yet. But I will get this kit in Spring, so I'm very keen on
>ANY information you have about it.
>So please, place me on your list "Information to send to about Pica P-51".
>:-)
>I would be glad if you could post a building report when you're
>finished ...
>

It' could be some time before I get started on it as I have a couple of other
planes in the pipeline....

I finished a Tiger Moth Saturday morning, in time for Sunday's flying session.
Now I have a Sterling Real Sporty on the board, it was the other kit I brought
back frm SF.... The diecutting is crap, but then what can you expect for
$34... Otherwise it's a very complete kit. I don't usually build the this
small (40") but ine the winter we have a bit of a walk from the car park to
the flying site....

After that I've got to repair my pylon racer that had a mid-air... I don't
actually race it, just get it out occasionally to frighten everybody :-)

Then hoopefully, the Mustang

cheers

bob

Harrier Softnet Ltd    tel +44-734-731181              I'd rather be playing
Ivanhoe Rd             fax +44-734-734546              with my chopper
Finchampstead          email bob@harrier.demon.co.uk     O  / __________
Berkshire                                               -|-<>     /\======O
RG11 4QQ                                               _/ \_    __\/__
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: sbbrown@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Stephen B. Brown)
Subject: Re: What is a ferite bead?
Organization: The Ohio State University Radio Observatory
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 18:03:48 GMT

>Brian Carey 283-4181 (careyb@dallas.jsc.nasa.gov) wrote:
>: What is a ferite bead? The one talked about below.

In article <C0GFvJ.2nH@srgenprp.sr.hp.com> rexm@sad.hp.com (Rex Musgrave)
writes:
>A ferrite bead is a toroid (doughnut) made of this iron based
>material. What the writer was talking about was to run the
>control wire through the center of the toroid, wrap it back
>around and through the center once again (one turn).

Mr. Musgrave explanation was correct except on one point.  The convention
when winding on inductors on a toroid is that the number of turns is the
number of times the wire passes through the center of the toroid.  (See,
for example, the ARRL Handbook, pg. 24-8 in the 1990 edition.)  Thus,
Mr. Musgrave describes a two-turn inductor, not a one-turn one.

The term ferrite bead, in my experience, usually refers specifically to
toroids intended for single turn inductors.  They are slid onto wires or
component leads or wires like beads on a necklace.  Usually, the center
hole is small, so there is only room for the wire to pass through once.

I get mine at hamfests or at Universal Amateur Radio.  My catalogs aren't
handy right now, but I'm sure that many mail order electronics houses
sell them.  One manufacturer (I think the name is Amidon) puts out an
excellent little brochure describing the various types of ferrite material,
the frequency ranges for each, and the color coding used to label them.

Another poster asked about the sizes available.  I've seen toroid cores
up to 8-10" in diameter.  These were intended for custom wound power
transformers, or for chokes for large cables such as thick coax.  Except
for prowling hamfests, I don't know a source for the large ones off the
top of my head.

The only thing Radio Shack carries are the snap together cores intended
for appliance-type power cords.  These are sometimes effective at
suppressing the RFI generated by lamp dimmers or heating pads.

-- 
Steve Brown, N8HFI              sbbrown@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu
Chief Engineer, The Ohio State University Radio Observatory ("Big Ear")
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: bob@harrier.demon.co.uk (Bob day)
Subject: Re: Engine problems 
Distribution: world
Organization: Harrier Softnet Ltd
Reply-To: bob@harrier.demon.co.uk
X-Mailer: Simple NEWS 1.90 (ka9q DIS 1.19)
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 20:45:55 +0000

Ok  I give in, I'm surprised ;-)

cheers

bob

Harrier Softnet Ltd    tel +44-734-731181              I'd rather be playing
Ivanhoe Rd             fax +44-734-734546              with my chopper
Finchampstead          email bob@harrier.demon.co.uk     O  / __________
Berkshire                                               -|-<>     /\======O
RG11 4QQ                                               _/ \_    __\/__
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: sbbrown@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Stephen B. Brown)
Subject: Re: What is a ferite bead?
Organization: The Ohio State University Radio Observatory
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 20:56:18 GMT

In article <C0HuEE.DAH@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu> ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib) writes:
>Hmm.. I thought it was simply sintered iron. Interesting to find out
>what this stuff is after all this while.

You're probably thinking of iron powder toroid cores, which are distinct
from ferrite cores, although they look the same and are used similarly.
Ferrite have higher permeability but saturate more readily, and are
generally used in low power applications.

>How big do these get? I need a toroid about an inch and a half in 
>diameter to make an inductor for a power panel I am building.

From a Palomar Engineers brochure:
F-140 ferrite cores:	OD 1.40"	ID 0.90"	HT 0.50"
    inductance 45-2250 mH/1000 turns, depending on the type of ferrite
    mix.  $4.50
T-157 iron powder core:	OD 1.57"	ID 0.95"	HT 0.57"
    inductance 115-970 uH/100 turns, depending on the mix.  This size
    is rated for 250W for mix 2 (0.25-10 MHz).  $4.00

Palomar's sizes go up to F-240 and T-400, but I've seen larger.  I don't
mean to endorse Palomar, but it's the only brochure I've got handy.
    Palomar Engineers
    P.O. Box 455
    Escondido, CA   92025
    (619) 747-3343
>
>
>
>
>-- 
>-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Iskandar Taib                          | The only thing worse than Peach ala
>Internet: NTAIB@SILVER.UCS.INDIANA.EDU |    Frog is Frog ala Peach
>Bitnet:   NTAIB@IUBACS                 !


-- 
Steve Brown, N8HFI              sbbrown@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu
Chief Engineer, The Ohio State University Radio Observatory ("Big Ear")
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: bob@harrier.demon.co.uk (Bob day)
Subject: Re: smoke systems for YS120FS 
Distribution: world
Organization: Harrier Softnet Ltd
Reply-To: bob@harrier.demon.co.uk
X-Mailer: Simple NEWS 1.90 (ka9q DIS 1.19)
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 17:16:18 +0000



This could be a good thread as I was intending to put a smoke system on the
OS120 Surpass in my Ultimate...

By way of experimentation I'm installing smoke on an OS91 in a Pitts.. So far 
I've tapped the backplae to provide pressure to the smoke tank, and wrapped
some Ali tube round the head as a preheater.. That's about as far as i've 
actually got... I have a Dubro smoke valve to turn the smoke on/of...

What concotions have people used for smoke fuel?.. 

-- 

Harrier Softnet Ltd    tel +44-734-731181              I'd rather be playing
Ivanhoe Rd             fax +44-734-734546              with my chopper
Finchampstead          email bob@harrier.demon.co.uk     O  / __________
Berkshire                                               -|-<>     /\======O
RG11 4QQ                                               _/ \_    __\/__
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: lesnyd@monsanto.com (Larry E. Snyder)
Subject: Re: Great Planes P-51 & 4-stroke
Organization: DSC
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 22:29:36 GMT

In article <1993Jan7.174851.3829@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>, manson@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Bob Manson) writes:
> 
> Also, before starting on a 1/6 scale P-82 from scratch (the
> sorta-kinda twin P-51) does anyone know of an existing kit for it?
> I've asked quite a few of the shops here in Columbus, but nobody's
> ever heard of one...

I've never seen a P-82 kit. I've seen several built from two P-51 kits. If
you do that, be sure to find some of the drawings for both the P-82 and P-51.
You will discover that although they look alike, the P-82 fuselage(s) is
quite different from the P-51 fuselage in size and shape. People mistakenly
believe the P-82 was built from two P-51s side by side. In reality, the P-82
was completely redesigned from the P-51.

RCM ran some drawings a year or so ago, comparing the fuse outlines of both 
the P-51 and P-82. It was surprising to see the difference!

Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: swhite@convex.com (Steve Whiteside)
Subject: Re: Dynaflite Skeeter and other HLG
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 19:46:27 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: Engineering, CONVEX Computer Corp., Richardson, Tx., USA
Keywords: gliders
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by a user at CONVEX Computer
              Corp. The opinions expressed are those of the user and
              not necessarily those of CONVEX.

In <1993Jan6.150701.20514@tms390.micro.ti.com> petero@tms390.micro.ti.com (Peter Ostrin) writes:

>Hi All,

>I am interested in hand launched gliders.  I notice that the
>Dynaflite Skeeter costs about $15.  Does anyone out there
>have any experience (good or bad) with this kit?  Is
>there any other low cost HLG Kit I should consider.

Please post or copy me on any recommendations. I was looking over an
article in RCM last night about this plane and I'm seriously considering
it for my second plane to build.  The reviewer was a little negative
on the plans and building notes. Have they improved?

I do have a specific question about HLG's: how good is the
performance? Do they thermal well? At all? 

>Thanks
Me too! THANKS! (To the net - For your past advice and discussion.
I've really enjoyed and welcomed the conversations)

>Peter

>petero@micro.ti.com

                |  The Gentle Lady is almost finished!  She's just
					skin and ribs, but it's my first 
\             __|__             /       RC plane and I can't wait to fly it!
 \______________|______________/    
                O  "This claim her" - No official, quasi-official,
Steven Whiteside  		      or factual content contained or implied.


Newsgroups: rec.models.rc