HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jjd1@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (james.j.dutton)
Subject: Re: [F] How to get rid of snails?
Keywords: snails fresh help
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 15:12:12 GMT

In article <1992Dec15.145631.14589@cbnewsh.cb.att.com> shine@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (stephen.c.shine) writes:
>In article jjd1@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (james.j.dutton) writes:
>>In article bklaas@hfglobe.intel.com (Brian Klaas) writes:
>>>What is the best way to rid a tank of snails?  After a recent fish purchase,
>> 
>>Three choices. The best I'll mention last.
>>1) Try treating with copper
>
>This will work, but it can be rough on your bacteria and plants.
 
Yes unfortunately trying to kill invertebrates with chemistry does
tend to kill other invertebrates. The plants won't be a problem if
you follow directions.
 
>
>>2) Boil your gravel. Be aware you will also kill your good bacteria therfore
>>you will need to reintroduce fish slowly. This method does not
>>always get rid of the snails. But it may be worth a try.
>
>Never tried boiling, but I've washed the gravel with diluted chlorox and
>it sure killed everything.  Duh.  Be sure to rinse very thoroughly and use 
>sodium thiosulfate afterwards.  You can also try alum.
 
If your suggesting he use chlorox in his tank may I suggest you pay for
his new fish?
 
>
>>3) ditch the old gravel. Scrape tank with razer blade. Buy new gravel.
>
>Rinsing the tank with a dilute chlorox solution will get all those
>egg masses, in case you missed one.  You have to rinse the new gravel anyway,
 
Yes you'll have to rinse the new gravel with water, how this justify's
using chlorox is beyond me.
 
>so I'd suggest chlorox-ing the old gravel and all the equipment.   How 'bout:
>
>4) Some folks on the net have reported success with snail-eating fish, such
>as clown loaches (botia macracantha, I think).  
 
Oh yes rumor has it clown loaches work fine. That hasn't been my experience.
YMMV.
 
>
>5) Then again, some folks just let them go as long as they're not eating 
>all your plants or clogging up your filters.
>
>I'm sure there are numerous other ways.
>Steve Shine
 
Maybe you'd like to mention one constructive one then.
 

 
================================================================================
 Sesquipedalian's 'R' Us. ZX-10. DoD#564. There ain't no more.
                                 doh#0000000005
================================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: sdebol@tsp.med.umn.edu (Steven Debol (Nelson))
Subject: Re: Reverse Flow Question
Organization: University of Minnesota
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 15:58:10 GMT

In article <Dec.15.21.17.24.1992.6941@remus.rutgers.edu> bjkramer@remus.rutgers.edu (Brian Kramer) writes:
>I am planning on converting to a reverse flow next weekend.  The tank is fairly
>new and in addition to an UGF (55 gallon Tank) it has an Eheim and a Whisper 4.
>I plan on just vacuming the gravel very well and then adding the RUGF kit to
>my Penguin 1140's.  Any other sugestions.  I have about 3 inched of blue
>gravel.


I also had a question related to this:  Can you just swich to RFUGF
after a tank has been set up for a year?  In other words, will the
detritus just slowly work its way up into the gravel where it can
be vacuumed out or is the tank going to get filthy?  It doesn't
seem the the flow would be strong enough to just force everything
through the gravel bed.

------------------------------------------------------------------
Steve Debol                       "The fear is all in your head,
Dept. of Microbiology              soldier, but don't get the idea
University of Minnesota            it's psychological." 
sdebol@lenti.med.umn.edu                        --Frank Burns
------------------------------------------------------------------

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: tom@dynamo.ecn.purdue.edu (Tom McCain)
Subject: Re: Are W/D trickle filters worth it?
Organization: Purdue University, West Lafayette, IN
Date: 11 Dec 92 20:04:12 GMT

01mbmccabe@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu writes:

: anyway?  Surely theres a better way...no?

Well, maybe.  But it's really up to you.  You could make one, that
would save you money.  Or you could go with more of a "natural method"
and forgo the wet/dry.  This basically consist of a sump (10/20 gallon
tank), a *good* efficient protein skimmer and lots of high quality live
rock.  There is a good introductory article in the January 93 issue of
FAMA describing this method.  It may not be much cheaper to get
started, but in the long run it sure does amount to a lot less
maintenance.  I use this method myself although I do not have a sump.
I just use a skimmer that is rated for a 90 gallon tank.  My micro
reef is in a 16 gallon tank ....

--tom
--
	    Tom McCain            tom@dynamo.ecn.purdue.edu


 Nudists are people who wear one-button suits.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria

In rec.aquaria, pietrzak@cs.uiuc.edu (John Pietrzak) writes:

  I've recently acquired the same problem in my 20g freshwater tank.  I've been
  trying to do the same thing, manually remove the stuff from my plants and
  tank ornaments.  The only help I can offer is that I don't think your 
  fertilizer is adding to the problem, as I have not been using any fertilizers
  to my tank.

  The "hair" seems to have been imported to my tank along with a "ludwigia"
  plant I added, so this problem may be avoided by a better job of cleaning
  plants before introducing them to the aquarium.  The algae has been around
  for about a month and a half now.

    John Pietrzak

This is very interesting.  Our 85 gal Rainbow tank is also sporting a 
luxurious hair algae plague that started in October just after we added
a small clump of "bacopa" (which was actually Rotala indica) purchased
from the local store. Nothing we have tried has gotten rid of it -

 1. lights out for a week
 2. large water changes (NO3 is 10 ppm, PO4 is ~0)
 3. removing all affected leaves
 4. added 6 ottocinclus (which were quarantined for two weeks yet are
     suspected of possibly transferring gill flukes or some other
     disease which killed of 9 of our 16 full grown Rainbowfish, along
     with the "Fluke-away" medicine killing all the snails in the tank). 
 5. removing even more affected leaves and soaking all mechanical 
    equipmentin bleach
 6. finally resorting to "Algae-Destroyer" (this weekend). 

It has not appeared in our other tanks which receive the same fertilizers,
water changes, food, etc.  Iron levels in all the tanks are 0.1 ppm.  I
would not suspect the Ferroplant is causing trouble.  

------
George
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: Igor Livshits <igorl@uiuc.edu>
Subject: Re: (m)hair algae removal
X-Xxdate: Fri, 18 Dec 92 21:44:00 GMT
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d16
Organization: NCSA
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 21:44:10 GMT
X-Xxmessage-Id: <A757A240600114C6@spiff.ncsa.uiuc.edu>

In article <BzFLnL.Dn6@ra.nrl.navy.mil> Anthony Tse, tse@ra.nrl.navy.mil
writes:
> 	Ahhh, doesn't your spiny urchin chew up all your coralline algae?
> 
> -Anthony


Yep, he does get some...but not nearly all of it.  He much prefers the
softer stuff.

Igor


_____
NCSA-UIUC,  e:igorl@uiuc.edu,  p:(217) 244-5606
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:9473 alt.aquaria:6191
From: shine@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (stephen.c.shine)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: [F] How to get rid of snails?
Keywords: snails fresh help
Date: 15 Dec 92 14:56:31 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T

In article jjd1@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (james.j.dutton) writes:
>In article bklaas@hfglobe.intel.com (Brian Klaas) writes:
>>What is the best way to rid a tank of snails?  After a recent fish purchase,
> 
>Three choices. The best I'll mention last.
>1) Try treating with copper

This will work, but it can be rough on your bacteria and plants.

>2) Boil your gravel. Be aware you will also kill your good bacteria therfore
>you will need to reintroduce fish slowly. This method does not
>always get rid of the snails. But it may be worth a try.

Never tried boiling, but I've washed the gravel with diluted chlorox and
it sure killed everything.  Duh.  Be sure to rinse very thoroughly and use 
sodium thiosulfate afterwards.  You can also try alum.

>3) ditch the old gravel. Scrape tank with razer blade. Buy new gravel.

Rinsing the tank with a dilute chlorox solution will get all those
egg masses, in case you missed one.  You have to rinse the new gravel anyway,
so I'd suggest chlorox-ing the old gravel and all the equipment.   How 'bout:

4) Some folks on the net have reported success with snail-eating fish, such
as clown loaches (botia macracantha, I think).  

5) Then again, some folks just let them go as long as they're not eating 
all your plants or clogging up your filters.

I'm sure there are numerous other ways.
-- 
Steve Shine
AT&T Bell Labs    (908)949-8517
att!hoqub!shine   att!cbnewsh!shine
My opinions, not my employers, not my fault, blah, blah, blah.
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:9470 alt.aquaria:6189
From: westergrenbr@bvc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: vacation decision
Date: 14 Dec 92 23:13:06 CST
Organization: Buena Vista College, Storm Lake, IA

I just learned yesterday that our dorm will not allow *anything* to be 
plugged in during the three-week Holiday break.  That includes fish tank 
filters.  Although I have friends staying over the break who could feed 
my fish, I wonder if it would be better to take them home (Where 
I'm not even sure I'll be able to feed them) or to leave them here and not 
feed them very much.

The important info....

Home is a good four hours away from here.
I have one Black Moor Goldfish in a five-gallon aqaurium w/undergravel 
	filtration
I also have a ten-gallon aquarium w/corner filter and an uncounted number
	of guppies (Gosh those suckers breed)

Thanks in advance for any e-mailed or posted advice as to what to do.

**************************************************
*                                                *
*             Brenda Westergren                  *
*             BV's lone Physics major            *
*             and you expect a .sig?             *
*                                                *
*          replies to westergrenbr@bvc.edu       *
*                 flames ignored                 *
**************************************************
 
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: assana@polkadot.Eng.Sun.COM (assana)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Monos ?
Date: 14 Dec 1992 05:22:10 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc., Mountain View, CA
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: polkadot

In article <37827@cbmvax.commodore.com> raible@cbmvax.commodore.com (Bob Raible - LSI Design) writes:
>
>I have four monos in a 29g at work with a couple of mollies. They are all
>doing fine. I originally brought home and quarantined a pair of spotted scats,
>but returned them when they completely stripped of all vegetation the heavily
>planted quarantine tank in only two weeks. Apparently these suckers are such
>dedicated plant eaters, they will even munch on java fern. 

Talking of vegetation, I took Pete's suggestion and give them spinach leaves.
All love it, and it's a great way to keep them away from the plants!
--
         ^-^
        /o o\
       ===^===   assana@polkadot.eng.sun.com
          -
From: jwjohn@ecst.csuchico.edu (Jerry W. Johnson)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: [F] a few questions...
Date: 19 Dec 92 17:19:20 GMT
Organization: California State University, Chico
NNTP-Posting-Host: cscihp.ecst.csuchico.edu

(1)  What kind of paint can I use to safely cover the sides & bottom
of my quarantine and plant tanks?  I would like a high gloss ( not
a bright color, black or blue), but my primary concern is the fish,
right?


(2) Also, I've a Fluval 403 running the RUGF in a 30 gallon FW, (yes, 
sometimes I too wonder how the gravel stays in the tank, I got a good
deal on a used one explains the overkill). Anyway, I've no experience
with a cannister. I've got ceramic "noodles" in the bottom, the foam block
in the top, and a combination of carbon, ammonia & de-nitrate in the middle 
chamber. The middle chamber is what concerns me. Am I using a sound
combination, and just how full/packed should the middle chamber be? 

Ammonia & nitrites are nil. Nitrates have been my concern, the Fluval was
used to convert from UGF to RUGF, this is why the de-nitrate. They are
dropping, (3 times a week water changes s@ck!), finally. It's a mild
community tank & the fish seem content, (well, I don't know if they're
content, but they spawn and swim around a lot <g>). Enough ramblings.
Thanx in advance. --JJ


Jerry W Johnson
Struggling CSCI Grad Student
(Is there any other kind?)
jwjohn@cscihp.ecst.csuchico.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: pietrzak@cs.uiuc.edu (John Pietrzak)
Subject: Re: [F] Tough hair algae question
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign
Distribution: rec,sci
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 19:14:15 GMT

In article <1992Dec10.165210.16452@vax5.cit.cornell.edu> mdkj@vax5.cit.cornell.edu writes:
>After all the help I received after my previous posting, I decided to try it
>again...  This is an algae question, and one that I have not been able to
>solve for about six months now, so here we go:
>My 70g freshwater tank has a luxuriant growth of hair algae, for no obvious
>reason.

I've recently acquired the same problem in my 20g freshwater tank.  I've been
trying to do the same thing, manually remove the stuff from my plants and
tank ornaments.  The only help I can offer is that I don't think your 
fertilizer is adding to the problem, as I have not been using any fertilizers
to my tank.

The "hair" seems to have been imported to my tank along with a "ludwigia"
plant I added, so this problem may be avoided by a better job of cleaning
plants before introducing them to the aquarium.  The algae has been around
for about a month and a half now.

Info about my tank:
20 gallons
Fish:	5 black tetras
	5 serpae tetras
	1 pleco
Plants:	1 ludwigia
	2 Amazon Swords
	lots of Hornwart
1 AquaClear mini power filter
Other:	1 ramshorn snail, several pond snails, lots of hair algae...

Water quality seems good; I change about 10% every week, the fish are fine, and
the plants are doing ok.

John Pietrzak
From: hbishop@ttsi.lonestar.org (Huett Bishop)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Hair algae removal?  It just keeps coming back...
Date: 15 Dec 92 23:30:09 GMT
Organization: Tandem Telecommunications Systems Inc.

In article <connolly.724369424@vincent1.iastate.edu> connolly@iastate.edu (Patrick H Connolly) writes:
>I've beenn reading the recentt postings about problems with hair
>algae forming.  I've got a 20 gal withh growth on plants (Amazon 
>sword) and fixtures in the tank.  I've got 3 Tilapia and
>some gouramis.  What can >I safely be used to get get rid of it?
>


Well I posted this problem a while back and got the following:

1)  Reduce the number of hours of light 
   I had 12-15 hours and I have reduced it to 9. I bought a timer
   and converted my light to instant on.

   I have noticed the alage seems to be dimished but not gone.

2) Raising the temp.

   I had to raise it anyway due to Ick. I don't know if it helped.


3) Increase the amount of water I change. 
   I have a 30 gal and would change 6 or 7 gallons (2 or 3 2.5 gal buckets)

   I did two 50% water changes during the Ick. I also bought a
   Python. Much easier to trickle the water back in at the correct
   temp.

   
4) Reduce the Nitrates. 
   
   Buy a test kit. Quit over feeding.
   Ditto water changes.

   I have reduced the Nitrates from 40ppm to 0-10 ppm
 

All in all I have reduced the amount of "hair" My plants looked like
they had beards! But I have not eliminated it, yet.

Try these things it should help!


Huett Bishop
Organization: University of Maine System
Date: Wednesday, 16 Dec 1992 23:45:48 EST
From: <APARKER@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Goldfish
Distribution: world
 <liuplvINN5k1@exodus.Eng.Sun.COM>

In article <liuplvINN5k1@exodus.Eng.Sun.COM>, kehlet@baudelaire.Eng.Sun.COM
(Dave Kehlet) says:
>Fluval canister filter but I didn't want to hook up a heater.  I'd
>really like some kind of algae eating fish.  What commonly available
>non-exorbitantly priced fish besides goldfish would live in a tank
>without temperature control?

** Depends on how cool it gets at night/in the winter etc.  The only
fish that _really thoroughly_ keep tanks algae-free are Lorcarid cat-
fishes (plecos). If the tank never gets below 70 F or so, one might
survive, but goldfish do better if they get quite a bit cooler than
that in the winter (pseudo-hybernation to keep their systems in sync).
You might consider a large snail or two for algae control.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
From: wmack@en.ecn.purdue.edu (William J Mack)
Subject: Re: Blue-green 'algae' are DEAD!
Followup-To: rec.aquaria
Summary: Dated Maracyn...
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 92 16:11:18 GMT

In article <1992Dec15.023629.13033@bsu-ucs>, 01mbmccabe@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu writes:
> In article <1992Dec13.201707.10770@samba.oit.unc.edu>, Neil.Frank@launchpad.unc.edu (Neil Frank) writes:
> > The reported successes of erithromycin killing blue-green algae has been
> > shared by others.  The effect or lack of effect of this antibiotic on
> > bio-filtration, however, could be debated.
> 
> I think another big reason for the discrepency of results could be that since
> (I've heard) the Maracyn company doesn't date their drugs, some people could be
> using "dead" drugs.
> 
> 				-Matt

The Maracyn I have stored away has both a lot number and a date.  By the way
it is dated to June of 97, I speculate that if anyone is using dead e...mycin,
they must have bought their product 3, 4, 5 years ago.  The "Maracyn Company"
you are referring to is called Mardel Laboratories.

-- 
Bill Mack                        "If you expect me to be an expert on the
School of Electrical Engineering  fundamentals while I'm asking a fundamental
Purdue University                 question....then fine, I'll pretend to be one"
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: jmg@stdavids.picker.com (Jeff Granito)
Subject: [M] Gravel Cleaning
Reply-To: jmg@stdavids.picker.com
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 22:21:48 GMT


  I am going to be removing my UGF soon and replacing it with a trickel filter and
a protien skimmer for my 55gal marine tank.  I just finished building a hood which
holds 2 vita-lights and a Super Atinic 03, so I plan on adding live rock.  Once this
is set up, it is going to be difficult to vacuum the gravel on the bottom since it
will be covered by rocks.  For those out there who have lots of rocks, do you clean
your gravel, or just let everything settle??  Also, if you clean your gravel, do
you move the rocks around in the tank to gain access??

Thanks

Jeff

---
jmg@stdavids.picker.com
Systems Software Engineer
Picker International

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: anbo@wuee1.wustl.edu (Albrecht Jander)
Subject: Idea for leveling tank.
Organization: Washington University, St. Louis Mo.
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1992 05:14:39 GMT

When I built my cabinet to go under the aquarium I built in a system 
for leveling the tank in my somewhat crooked appartment.  It works like
this:

The frame of the cabinet is of two-by-fours covered with finished 
plywood.  The pedestal of the cabinet is actually a seperate rectangle
of two-by-fours which distribute the weight on the floor.  Into the
bottom of the cabinet I drilled six 1" holes and epoxied in some big
washers and nuts.  These match up with six washer that are sunk in the
pedestal.  By threading some bolts from the inside of the cabinet, through
the nuts and onto the washers in the pedestal I can adjust the tilt of
the cabinet.  Nothing is visible from the outside, and my tank is perfectly
level even though the floor certainly is not.

If anyone is interested, and that didn't make any sense, please let me know
and I'll try to do an ASCII drawing or something.

Albrecht



---------------------------------------------------------------------------
                        Peltier was a cool dude!!
From: kvk@questor.sw.stratus.com (Ken Koellner)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: (m)hair algae removal
Date: 17 Dec 1992 19:30:03 GMT
Organization: Stratus Computer, Software Engineering
Distribution: rec
NNTP-Posting-Host: questor.sw.stratus.com

In article <1992Dec17.4149.11404@dosgate> "larry wheatley" <larry.wheatley@canrem.com> writes:
>Hi All, 
>        I have had hair algae im my reef for a while now.
>....
>
>I was thinking maybe I should have bought a RO unit instead
>of a ozone generator.  I must have too many nutrients and/or
>phosphates?   What will remove phosphates from my water?
>HELP!
>

I think source water is one of the critical factors for a reef
tank.  I only have a $60 Marine Invert DI unit but I have found that
my tank inproved a lot since using this water.

You can always get a Kole Tang.  They are considered the best fish for
eating hair algae.  Coloquial names vary.  They are the purblish-brown
ones with faint horizontal stripes of a yellowish tinge with a yellow
circle around the eye.  They are also refered to as Yellow-Eyed Tangs.

-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"Maybe he's just a little insane, like painters or composers."
							-Miracle on 34th Street
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: dphantom@triton.unm.edu (darlene an  92sep02 lawry)
Subject: Re: Rubber Eel, Spotted puffer questions
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 92 01:36:54 GMT
Organization: University of New Mexico, Albuquerque
Distribution: usa

In article <1992Dec11.191403.15994@wam.umd.edu> faith@wam.umd.edu (Jerome Smith) writes:
>In article <1992Dec6.000409.29460@netcom.com> bruce@netcom.com (Bruce V. Schwartz) writes:
>>Hello aquarians!
>
>>I was told by the pet
>>shop that rubber eels eat algae, but I haven't seen the one I bought eat
>>anything.  Any information about this critter would be useful, I haven't
>>been able to find anything about him in any books.
>
>I have two and they are scavengers. I have never seen mine eat anything like
>algae. I feed mine shimp from the store, worms, steak, ect... they love it.
>I don't know about that algae stuff.

Rubber eels will definitely NOT eat algae.  Their native food is earthworms.
They like krill and brine shrimp especially...they won't eat flakes, and
like food in "chunks" (I'm sureyou've noticed by now they're virtually
blind...they need something they can grab with their mouth).  They'll
eat frozen just fine.

>
>>killed an algae eater.  Is there any hope of reforming the spotted puffer?
>>He gets quite agressive at mealtime, and after eating an earthwork will go
>>after anything that moves!
>>
>Those puffer are semi aggressive fish. I also know that they will put in their
>mouths what will fit in them.  I don't think you can tame them either. Good
>luck to you.         Jerome!
>


Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:9627 alt.aquaria:6290