HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: chenh@neptune.ecs.csus.edu (H. Philip Chen)
Subject: Re: Nissan Quest or Mecury Villager (Mini-Vans) Info
Organization: California State University, Sacramento
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 92 23:50:33 GMT

rll@frieda.mitre.org (Roberto L. Landrau) writes:
>The Nissan Quest and the Mercury Villager were listed in one of the
>magazines as having the exact same curb weight, horsepower, etc.  The
>also look alike a lot.  What is the connection?  Is it a joint effort
>between Ford and Nissan?

Yes, Ford & Nissan have a joint venture to produce the Villager & Quest.
Nissan's American R&D did/do most of the design work.  Ford assembles 
both the models in Ohio.

Ford & Nissan have other joint ventures in Europe and Australia,
producing other types of vehicles.  

Neither one owns stock in the other's company; they're just cooperating 
with each other.


Cheers,

-phil
From: petebre@elof.iit.edu (Brent Allen Peterson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: 1970 Cougar X-R7 for sale
Keywords: 351 Clevand V-8
Date: 14 Sep 92 18:04:54 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Illinois Institute of Technology, Chicago

In article <BuDr7H.316@cmptrc.lonestar.org> neal@cmptrc.lonestar.org (Neal Howard) writes:
>P.S. I've got a complete '70 429CJ motor out of a Torino Cobra that sure
>     would make the Cougar fly, but I'd have to cut up the front suspension
>     to make it fit. Anybody out there interested in a 429CJ motor. It runs
>     very strong. (1970 D0OE Ford p/n's all over it, 2bolt mains early CJ).
>

      What happened to the Torino Cobra??? those are fairly rare as I 
remember. about 1000 made in 1970.
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: wlsmith@valve.heart.rri.uwo.ca (Wayne Smith)
Subject: Re: front disc brake question
Organization: The John P. Robarts Research Institute, London, Ontario
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1992 06:50:09 GMT

In article <1992Sep4.132408.213@webo.dg.com> dibb@jac.webo.dg.com writes:
>|> Which confirms my general opinion that disk brakes are
>|> for the birds
>|> (they are more troublesome than drums, given the small
>|> (or no) performance
>|> increase).  They are cheaper to put on at the factory,
>|> and have a lower
>|> parts count, the aftermarket for replacement rotors must
>|> be a good profit
>|> source (otherwise why not put more metal in the rotors? 
>|> The thicker they are,
>|> the less likely they are to warping due to stress and
>|> heat,  but no, they'd
>|> rather have you come into the dealership and give them
>|> work to do...)
>
>If disks are for the birds, then why would any manufacturers
>of high performance 
>at any cost cars ever use them?  Or race cars, or any sports
>car for that manner?
I would like to know the (technical) answer to that question.

>Disks are easier to service and are far better as far as
>heat dissipation
When (or how) does heat become a problem?  
Does heat play a role in stopping performance during a particular
braking event, or does the heat play a role in long-term material
fatigue (warping) etc?

If drums are more succeptible to heat problem, why does it seem that
most (if not all) warping/distorting problems come from disk brakes?

>and fade resistance.  The more metal used, the heavier, and thus less
>desirable they are for
>performance cars.

I'm talking about general/every-day cars.  Why can't they make a
maintenance free disk?  The only crock bigger than getting rotors
turned every 10 or 20K miles is getting your cylinders rebored...
(maybe they'll think of that next!)

>Also using drums on the front wheels of
>cars would probably put
>enough wear on them that they would have to be
>turned/replaced as often as disks
>at higher expense ( more parts, more complex).

I replaced the (front) drums on my 65 Dodge because parts of the outer
edge was getting to thin due to rust.  In all the years (and close to 
200K miles) that my family has put on 60's cars with 4 wheel drum brakes,
we never ever had to turn the drums.  I can easily go 15 or 20 K city
miles before I need new brake shoes.

>So did you forget the smilies or what?

Well, I guess I could have put a few in.  :) :)
But I guess there aren't enough people around that can remember the
trouble-free-ness of 4 wheel drum brakes...   :)

From: lea00@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (Larry Akers)
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 23:43:49 GMT
Subject: Re: Yet another fancy piece of cops' equipment
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
Newsgroups: rec.autos

In rec.autos, singh@r-node.gts.org (Rajendra Singh) writes:

    In article <Bts8qC.J6v@cmptrc.lonestar.org> neal@cmptrc.lonestar.org (Neal Howard) writes:
    >In article <17bj2bINNh82@agate.berkeley.edu> avk@hafnium.cchem.berkeley.edu (Tony Konashenok) writes:
    >>Two days ago in Marin County I was pulled over by a cop on a motorcycle.
    >>When he approached me, I understood that he was riding... Guess what?
    >>
    >
    >Cool!!! The last time I got pulled over for speeding, the cop was also
    >on a Harley and that seemed to make getting a ticket just a little less
    >painful. (by the way I was flying low and had no excuse). 

    I would venture to say that 90% of the motorcycles used by Ontario (Canada)
    cops are Harley Davidsons.
    -- 
    Raj (singh@r-node.gts.org)  If you wish to reply by E-Mail and your response
    is greater than 100 lines (or 15K), then please send your response to:
  
                      tcomsing@chasm.scar.utoronto.c


The Loveland, Colorado police department just got back into the motorcycle
riding business this year.  They bought two brand new police edition Harley's
, riding gear(helmets,leathers,gogles,etc.), and trained the men who will be
riding them.  The total costs for everything was about $16K.  That sure seems
like a great deal to me, I've been wanting a new or near new, or old, Harley
to replace the one I traded for a four wheel drive truck a couple of years  
ago.  My wife wants one also, now if I could just get two new Harley's and
related equipment for $16K.  I could even get by without the training but 
my wife, that's another story...

LA...  LA...  LA...  LA...  LA...  LA...  Later,,,  Larry Akers....
From: rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com (Bob Rusk)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Door Horror
Date: 9 Sep 92 19:23:51 GMT
	<1992Sep7.151303.17377@hubcap.clemson.edu>
	<BuBKEI.9to@news.cso.uiuc.edu>
Reply-To: rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com
Organization: Harris Computer Systems Division

On 9 Sep 92 16:27:52 GMT, tmkk@uiuc.edu (Khan) wrote:

>In article <ILH.92Sep9095500@winnie-the-pooh.lcs.mit.edu> ilh@lcs.mit.edu (Lee Hetherington) writes:
>>
>>That reminds me.  The parking lot at my old high school had their
>>lines repainted from perpendicular to angled.  The idiot painting them
>>did not realize that by angling the lines the spaces got narrower.
>>They were ridiculously narrow.  There's one person who did not get
>>much out of math/geometry class!

>I guess I didn't get much out of my math classes either. I always
>thought that if you take a rectangle of width W and rotate it by X
>degrees about one of the vertices the rectangle still had a width of W.

>Try it yourself: take a rectangular piece of paper. Orient it at right
>angles to the edge of your desk, forming a perpendicular "parking space"
>(for a Matchbox car ;-). Stick a pin through one of the corners, and
>rotate the paper by 45 degrees about that pin to form an angled
>"parking space." Has the width of the paper changed?

>If the new spaces were ridiculously narrow, then it was entirely the
>painter's fault and had nothing whatsoever to do with the fact that the
>spaces were rotated.

BZZZT!  WRONG!

You try it yourself:  Take a four sticks (two pairs, each pair being two
whose length matches).  Stick pins through the ends to form 
hinges/pivots/vertices so that you get a rectangle.  Anchor one of the 
sticks.  Call the anchored stick and the stick opposite it "ends".
Call the unanchored sticks "sides".  Move the unanchored end off to one 
side, thus creating a non-rectangular parallelogram.  Now measure the 
distance between the two sides.  Be sure to measure perpendicular to
the sides.  You will see that your measurement is smaller than the
length of the "ends".  In fact, if you move the unanchored end far enough,
the two "sides" will hit one another!

The painter or the person who payed the painter did indeed screw up in
not separating the sides enough.

--
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Bob Rusk			    | An egoless acceptance of stuckness is a
 rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com	    | key to an understanding of all Quality.
 My thoughts, probably not Harris'. |			   - Robert M. Pirsig
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: bill@unixland.natick.ma.us (Bill Heiser)
Subject: Re: SHO Engine for Probe
Organization: Unixland Public Access Unix  (508) 655-3848
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 1992 00:40:33 GMT

david.bonds@cutting.hou.tx.us (David Bonds)  writes:
>I knew you had problems with the AC in yours, but have you had major
>mechanical problems as well (engine, transmission, etc)?

Interesting ... my '89 Probe with 80K miles has no AC anymore.
They tell me it needs a condensor and a dryer.  With labor and all,
including recharging the system, this would cost over $600 to fix!

Looks like I'll be without AC until I buy another car!

-- 
bill@unixland.natick.ma.us                      ESIX Mailing List Moderator
Public Access UNIX/USENET/E-MAIL!  UUCP Accounts Available!  (508) 655-3848
5 lines  -  Located in Natick, MA   USA    Supporting V.32/PEP/V.42bis, etc.
Xref: sparky rec.autos:21560 rec.autos.tech:12319
From: Peter.Hammond@brunel.ac.uk (Peter D Hammond)
Newsgroups: rec.autos,rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Cavalier Brake Problem and Question
Date: 8 Sep 92 13:03:07 GMT
Organization: Brunel University, Uxbridge, UK
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL3

edwin@csri.toronto.edu (Edwin Allum) writes:
{edited highlights...}
: 
: A friends 1990 Chevrolet Cavalier recently developed a slight pulsating
: of the brake pedal at about 22,000 Km (~10,000 miles).
: 
: "Disc brake pulsation can be largely due to one or more of the following
: operating conditions resulting in rust or corrosion build-up on the
: rotors:
: 
: (a)	Infrequent use
: (b)	Extended periods in which the vehicle is not used
: (c)	Primary usage of the vehicle in a city environment (very few
: 	high speed stops)
: 
: Thanks, Edwin.
: --------------
: Edwin Allum
: CSRI, University of Toronto
: Internet: edwin@csri.toronto.edu Phone: 416-978-8715 Fax: 416-978-4765

Hi.
I've got a 6 year old Vaxhaul Cavalier, I assume they are reasonably similar.
I commute 35 miles each way to work on motorways/high speed dual carriageways.
I got warped brake discs a while ago, admittedly at 80000 miles about, but I
dont think it can be much to do with what they said. I had the discs replaced,
not skimmed, and it seems that the problem may be just coming back, after about
another 20000 miles. I havent checked it out, but just in the last few days the
rumble has been showing itself again.

Anyway, my point is, I dont think much to GM's reasons for rumble. I always
thought that reasons for warpage were related to heat build up. Like the other
followup poster said ( I cant remember who), I try to relax the brakes after
stopping from high speed, but it doesnt seem to have helped. I heard going
through puddles with hot disks can be fatal to them, as well.

By the way, the other chap said that the max. runout was 0.00005". Sure you
havent added an extra 0 to that? 5 hundredths of a thou is a _very_ fine
tolerance.


-- 
BFN, Pete.

 Dept. Materials Technology | Disclaimer: SERC pay me | You sometimes have to  
 Brunel University          | to report my opinions,  |    listen to
 Uxbridge                   | not for theirs or the   | A lot of useless talk.
 Middx, UB8 3PH, UK.        | the university's.       |         N. Peart. (RUSH)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: jailbird@next04wor.wam.umd.edu (serial killer)
Subject: Re: Buying an old Police car
Organization: Workstations at Maryland, University of Maryland, College Park
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 15:04:21 GMT

In article <Sep.13.16.21.16.1992.6884@oliver.rutgers.edu>  
livneh@oliver.rutgers.edu (Shai Livneh) writes:
> A question to the netters:
> 
> I'm looking into buying an old police car (preferably
> an 87-90 Chevy Caprice with a 350 and the standard
> police package additions.  Does any one out there have
> one or had one at one point?  Are there any problems
> I should be looking for after I buy it?  Where should 
> I get it? (I think it would be cheapest at an auction
> but what about other places such as leasing companies
> or private sellers)  Also, how much should I expect to 
> pay? (obviously you can't get a blue book value easily).
> Thanks in advance for any help.
> 					Shai


I have an old police car and I got it at 100,000 miles. the police cars
come with a heavy duty package so they'll last a minimum of 200,000 miles 
if you drive a lot on the highway.  I know of about 10 people who own them
and the only thing they usually change is the transmission at about  
200,000 miles.  My car is Crown Vic 86' and it has about 380,000 miles,  
I'll be trying to get it up to 420,000 then probably trash it.  The car is  
also preatty good in accidents.  I had a toyota rear end me and his engine  
was gone.  All i had was a dent on the bumper.  you may also want to put  
the antenas back up and watch people slow down cause they think you're a  
cop.
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: dbowman@shade (Don A. Bowman)
Subject: Re: Auto accident in Ontario
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 1992 18:43:28 GMT

RSA@SSCVAX.CIS.MCMASTER.CA writes:
: Hi
: 
: A friend of mine got into an accident in Hamilton, Ontario.
: He has been charged with  the offence ``Fail to Yield''.
: His car was a rental and it was totaled the other car is a 
: NIssan 240sx (1990) and the front end of  is completely
: damaged. He survived with a few bruises and she was bit shaken
: but no major injuries. He paid the ticket and pleaded guilty.
: 
: Now he is worried about a few things.
: 
: 1) Will there be a law suit?
: 2) Can the other drivers relatives harass him?
: 3) Should he save some money to hire a lawyer/to appear
:    in a court in Ontario. (He lives in Alberta)?
: 
: Thanks in advance,
: 
: RSA
: 
: PS: Obviously neither one of us know anything about auto insurance
: in Ontario.

I went through this (from the victim's point of view) two months ago.
Here is what I learned:

The insurance company of the rental agency will deal with all and any costs.
Under Ontario law, lawsuits are uncommon for this sort of thing, and rarely
succeed. He has no need for a lawyer (in my opinion) unless the insurance
agency comes after him for gross negligence (ie driving while asleep or
impaired).

Relatives of the victim have no legal rights in the matter and should
be ignored.

The only things he should be worried about are:

a) His insurance will go up
b) He now has 3 more points (I believe they transfer to Alberta).

When he signed the rental agreement, there was liability insurance in effect,
or else they would not allow him to drive. This covers all personal liability
up to (whatever the coverage is, $500 000 min. I believe)

Ps. Not many people in Ontario know what our auto insurance is about,
so don't feel bad. The government waffles on it every few days...

Don.
-- 
Don Bowman                (519) 744-6154     dbowman@zeus.uwaterloo.ca
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: plm@arawak.bellcore.com (Paul L. Mowatt)
Subject: Re: ACURA VIGOR CD CHANGER IN
Organization: Bellcore - Bell Communications Research
Date: 4 Sep 92 15:48:48

In article <9680.74.uupcb@cutting.hou.tx.us> erich.lim@cutting.hou.tx.us (Erich Lim)  writes:

>> I've figured out that the CD Changer that Acura sells for the Vigor
>> is made by Alpine.  What I can't figure out is how to get the factory
>> radio to go into CD mode.  I know the controls are built into the
>> radio.  The dealer told me that once the CD changer is plugged in the
>> buttons on the radio perform a dual function.  Yesterday I went to a
>> stereo shop and had them hookup a Alpine changer.  There was power to
>> the unit (the Vigor comes pre-wired for a CD changer), but we could
>> not figure out how to get the radio to switch to CD mode!
>>
>> Has anyone installed a CD changer in a Vigor?  If so can you provide
>> me with information on how to switch the radio to CD mode.

> Here's the deal on the stock radio.  There's a din plug on the back
> with a gray cap over it.  That needs to be taken out and a cable from
> the CD changer to the din input(on the radio) are to be connected.  The
> Din cable can ONLY be purchased from your Honda/Acura dealer.
> Authorized Alpine dealers don't sell them.   Did you buy the CD changer
> from the Acura dealer or retail??  That should be it, one simple cable
> and it should work.  The panel of the stock head unit will sense the
> input and should automatically configure the radio to work in dual mode
> so there shouldn't be other controller to run the disc player, or maybe
> there is.  I really only know how the Single Disc factory Alpine works,
> but I guess the changer would be the same.

I've figured out that a regular Alpine changer can't work.  I've found an 
alternative to the dealer for Honda/Acura parts.  They have the changer
for the Vigor GS for $527 compared to $650 from an Acura dealer.

This place sells a complete line of Honda & Acura parts and accessories at
discounted prices.  They are :
	
	A & H MOTORSPORT INC
	660 Easton Road
	Horsham, PA 19044
	(215) 657-0775
	(800) 543-5525
	(215) 657-6143 (FAX)
	

>   Erich Lim

--
_______________________________________________________________________________
|Paul Mowatt               plm@reggae.cam.bellcore.com  "Materialism is wrong,|
|Bellcore, RRC 5H-127      plm@czar.bellcore.com         only when it's not   |
|444 Hoes Lane             (W) (908) 699-6947            evenly distributed." |
|Piscataway, NJ 08855-1342 (H) (908) 220-0570                                 |
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: wwein@scott.skidmore.edu (warren wein)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Help!  Mildew odors from my ventilation system!
Date: 9 Sep 92 19:49:50 GMT
Organization: Skidmore College, Saratoga Springs NY


try air freshners?


------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Warren Wein

'83 Audi 5000s: sport sedan from hell!!!
'86 Toyota MR2: a real sports car, fun! fun! and more FUN!
'90 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX: "Atomic M&M"  Is this thing glued to the
                                          road? 	

" Insurance in Brooklyn costs how much ?! "

e-mail: wwein@skidmore.edu
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: arnold@salzo.Cary.NC.US (Arnold)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Nissan truck for sale
Date: Sun, 06 Sep 92 08:10:57 EDT
Organization: SalzoBoard BBS

For Sale:

 

1992 Nissan Extra Cab 2WD Pickup

. Red with Grey interrior

. Air Conditioning, AM/FM Cassette, Alpine Speakers, Chrome Package

. Bedliner

. 3500 miles (New in May of 92, immaculate condition)

. 4 Cylinder gets 25 mpg in city driving

 

Asking $12000

 

Please call Arnold Cota: (919) 469-9159 or (919) 254-3456
From: david.bonds@cutting.hou.tx.us (David Bonds) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: RainX and RX-7 questions
Date: 9 Sep 92 14:35:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: The Cutting Edge - Houston, TX - 713-466-1525
Reply-To: david.bonds@cutting.hou.tx.us (David Bonds) 

  >Ok it was dumb.  I put one of those RainX anti fogging products (for inside)
  >on my winshield and now I regret it.  It sounded like a good idea at the time...

I used the RainX anti-fog stuff on the inside of my mother's Civic that 
tended to fog up instantly in cooler weather, it didn't do much of anything
to stop fogging, and actually fogged MORE when the weather warmed up some.  
Eventually, it just wore off - I guess your best bet is to just wait for it
to wear off, and wipe it down every couple of days 'til it's gone.  A PITA,
I admit, but old fashoned elbow grease is probably the only way to get it off 
if conventional cleaners don't work.

BTW, the RainX stuff on the OUTSIDE seems to work great - all water flies off
at highway speeds, don't even need the wipers at 50+ mph...   Only lasts a 
couple of weeks, tho.

- Dave Bonds 
- Internet : David.Bonds@cutting.hou.tx.us
---
 . KingQWK 2.00 .6 # 145 . "Suicide Hotline.  Please hold."
                                                                  
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: RZAA80@email.sps.mot.com (Jim Chott)
Subject: Re: Fuel Quality - How to tell from performance?
Organization: Motorola SPS
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 16:49:43 GMT

In article <1992Sep9.170249.18916@en.ecn.purdue.edu>, chan@en.ecn.purdue.edu (Vi Chi Chan) writes:
> 
> 
> Hi there,
> 
> I have a question concerning the performance of different grade of gas.
> Hope that someone here can kindly give me an answer...
> 
> I was using the Premium grade (octane #93) from Amoco.
> recently I changed to the Silver grade (#89, I believe?) trying to compare the 
> difference it made in performance and cost.
> 
> However, after using the Silver for a month, I can't notice any difference in
> the performance of my car (power, mpg etc.) I began to wonder if the different
> it made may not be justified for the high price of Premium gas!
> Or, will it give difference only in long term use or any kind of differences 
> internally which I can't notice?
> 
>
I believe you only need to use as high an octane rating to keep your engine
from pinging.  87 octane reg. unleaded causes my Toyota engine to ping, so 
I run 92 octane super, which also gives a power increase, probably due to
the engine not retarding spark automatically.  (It's EFI)  I know if an engine
knocks long enough, it will damage it.  My 72 LeMans runs the same no matter
what I pump into it, but it only has 8.0:1 compression.

Jim
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: crepeau@rtsg.mot.com (Daniel B. Crepeau)
Subject: Re: Saturn, Honda, and Japan
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 12:33:20 GMT

minor@rtsg.mot.com (Kevin Minor) writes:

>crepeau@rtsg.mot.com (Daniel B. Crepeau) writes:

>|>>I mean I didn't know until recently that the US
>|>>car manufacturers made no effort to conform the steering wheel for export
>|>>to Japan. 


>|>     Two reasons :
>|>            First : US car maker were in retreat trying to protect
>|>                    their home Market.

>|>			Second : US makers saw that the Japanese market was truly closed.
>|>                     Europeans had been shipping right hand steering cars
>|>                     for years with virtually no market share. No access to
>|>                     dealers there...dealers were penaltized if they sold
>|>                     cars of a competitors...etc.


>|>                    Jeep announced a $20 million investment to provide 
>|>                    right hand steering. Not CHEAP...without market access.
>|>                    The Major Japanese manufacturers recently announced
>|>                    that their dealers will be allowed to sell vehicles
>|>                    of other manufacturers. 

>I guess my point was if Honda is shipping more cars that the Big 3 
>combined than the market is NOT closed. And how can American car companies
>b*tch about Japan not buying their product when the steering wheel is
>on the wrong side ? Yes, it is expensive but the Japanese paid the costs
>to get the market...

Does Honda go though the same entry process as a NON Japanese company.
	1) Each and every single car goes though an inspection
	2) Tariffs added to each car.

	Both which are equivalent to a 30-40% increase in price. Would you of bought
	your Honda for 30% more?
	

>Also some American cars are just simply overpriced... Why ? Well,
>because they can be sold for that amount - at least that is what I was
>told. So when people go and by the cheaper foriegn car, American companies
>shouldn't complain. Speaking of Jeep, the grand limited is nearly one
>third more expensive than all competitors. Is it 33% better ?
>-- 

		Thats what a free Market is all about... thet're selling like hot cakes
  so the consumer must think so.