HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: reb@Ingres.COM (Phydeaux)
Subject: Maple Syrup as priming sugar...
Reply-To: reb@Ingres.COM (Phydeaux)
Organization: E 4th St Home For The Overeducated Underemployed - Chicago Div.
Date: 6 Nov 92 17:48:54 GMT

I'm  interested in using  some  maple syrup as priming   sugar for a 5
gallon batch that's in the primary right now.  Any clue as to how much
of  it to use for priming?   It's Grade  C Vermont maple  syrup... I'd
imagine someone  else has tried this...   I'm thinking of priming with
the syrup so as to keep more of the maple flavor  in the bottle.  It's
a holiday beer with cinnamon, orange and ginger  in it along with some
maple syrup (and malt extract) in the primary.

		Any ideas?
				reb
From: awds_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Clarkkent)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: cats_meow?
Date: 10 Nov 92 21:40:56 GMT
Organization: University of Rochester - Rochester, New York

I have a question about the archive site @stanford.
How does one print out postscript files consistenly?
I have no problem uncompressing, printing out the 
postscript version of cats_meow_v2, but I can't get the
cover to print out, as well as a couple other .ps titles.
My operator says it's a problem with the files, does
anyone know about this?  Please email.

Adam Edwards
awds_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu
From: devine@olympus.CS.Berkeley.EDU (bob devine)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: preserves instead of fruit?
Date: 10 Nov 1992 20:15:29 GMT
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
NNTP-Posting-Host: olympus.cs.berkeley.edu
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL3

operstk@HYDRA.ROSE-HULMAN.EDU writes:
: Has anyone ever tried or given any consideration to using fruit preserves
: instead of fresh berries or fruit in their beer?

The major concern is the pectin from the preserves/jams/jellies/etc.
You will get a cloudy beer if you use the fruit preserves directly but
if you add some pectinase to it, this should help.

If you do this, be sure to get preserves that are without preservatives
or that may affect the yeast.  The "natural" brands are probably best.

Bob Devine
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Subject: Re: lauter tun strainer
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 15:36:02 GMT
Organization: ddsw1.MCS.COM Contributor, Chicago, IL
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL3

ulick@bernini.helios.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford) writes:
: 
: Reasons I don't want an easy masher.
: 
: 1)  I don't want to drill a hole in my kettle.
: 2)  The whole point is that I want to mash in the cooler, not the kettle.
: 3)  I seriously doubt the easymashers ability to sparge a wheat mash.
: 4)  I enjoy making up this stuff so that it is elegant to a certain
:     extent.
: 5)  I've already done it.  Cost one 10' 1/2 M length of copper tubing
:     that set me back a whopping $4.  I spent a while doing it, so I listened
:     to election results on NPR instead of watching TV.
: 6)  I am still pissed at you for the unsolicited junk email in which you
:     said I'd be better off with a rolling pin than a Corona.
 
 
I certainly won't try to argue with your reasons other than the waste of
bandwidth asking for advice if you had already finished the project.

I will however, protest the notion that I send you  the junk mail you
describe.  I doubt that I ever made the statement because I don't believe
it to be true and I certainly would not have made it in what you 
regard as unsolicited junk mail.

The only "junk mail" I can be accused of is responding to questions such
as how do people crush malt or how do I get started in brewing?  These
are hardly unsolicited but I have never made the remark you alleged in
any such mail and not sure what context I might have made it other than
a joke.
From: wolfgang@cats.ucsc.edu (Robert Frank Dougherty)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Odd fermentation
Date: 12 Nov 92 23:43:37 GMT
Organization: University of California; Santa Cruz
NNTP-Posting-Host: am.ucsc.edu


In article <1992Nov12.151843.467@doc.bmd.trw.com> jharres@doc.bmd.trw.com writes:
...
>within 24 hours.  I figured it was done.  Remembering I didn't add any
>hops to the secondary ferment, I opened it and started adding Cascade
>pellets.  With only a dozen or so small pellets added, the ferment
>took off, with much foaming (froth and hops debris going out the top. 
>
>So finally.....Why did the hops appear to start the fermentation again?  
>Any suggestions as to why the short ferment (other than temperature)?
>
>
>Thanks
>Jim            jharres@doc.bmd.trw.com

I believe the hop fragments provide some surface area for the disolved 
CO2 to gather on.  Th CO2 forms bubbles on the hop fragments and rushes to 
top, carrying the hop fragments with them.  This happened to me just recently.
Now, if I'm dry-hopping into a full carboy, I would aggitate it for a while
BEFORE adding the hops to release some of the disolved CO2.  It gets real
messy when hop-laden foam oozes from the air-lock! 
(Let me know if there's a better way!)

-Bob Dougherty
wolfgang@cats.ucsc.edu

I believe the hop fragments ju
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Subject: Re: Corn sugar?
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean  VA
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 19:05:15 GMT

In article <BxGKqE.ID7@news.iastate.edu>
 bgunzy@iastate.edu (Bob Gunzenhauser) writes:

>I just purchased a Munton and Fison Premium kit and found out too late that
>it calls for spraymalt.  I don't have any and I really don't want to pay
>the extra amount for it.  Would it be possible to add corn sugar instead of
>the spraymalt?  What other sugars could I use?  Thanks!

First of all, let me praise Munton and Fison for recommending an all-malt 
batch.  Too many kit makers still recommend adding sugar.

Second, you can certainly add corn sugar instead of dry malt extract, but 
you will get a thinner tasting beer, possibly cidery tasting as well.

John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own
Fidonet:  1:109/131  Internet:  jdecarlo@mitre.org
From: wpns@miki.pictel.com (Willie Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: carboy incubator
Date: 6 Nov 92 18:33:04 GMT
Organization: PictureTel Corporation

In article <1992Oct23.191651.21781@sal.wisc.edu> dan@larry.sal.wisc.edu (Dan Roehre) writes:
>to come up with some type of incubator for my carboy while the ale
>is fermenting.  Has anyone needed to do something like this?  My

We just started a 3-gallon batch of mead in a fermenter we built out
of some aquarium parts and a couple of trash cans and other hardware
store bits.  All numbers are off the top of my head, details on
request:

Take a 15 gallon trash can and build up the bottom of it a few inches
so a 10 gallon trash can will fit inside it.  [Optional, we haven't
done this yet, fill the space between the two cans with insulation].

Build up the bottom of the inner can with plastic or other waterproof
material so that a (we used 3-gallon) carboy is surrounded by the
water you fill the inner can with.

Add an aquarium heater (get a good one, the cheap ones are worse than
useless, the one we ended up with keeps the resultant waterbath within
1/10 degree C(!)) to set the temperature of the waterbath.

To keep the water circulating and avoid hotspots, add an aquarium air
pump, airstone, and 1" PVC pipe shaped to bring the water up from
beneath the carboy and release it so as to keep the water flowing in a
circular pattern around the carboy.  [Note, water pumps aren't nearly
as reliable as this kind of airlift pump.]  Add a little bleach to the
waterbath to keep it from growing slime, put both covers in place, and
relax.

I got my aquarium stuff from a store called That Fish Place (call 800
information), which not only has everything you could imagine, but
decent prices, fast service, and helpful sales folks.  No affiliation
other than as a satisfied customer.  I used an Otto Computherm
submersible 100W heater with an electronic controller which was about
$35.  A smaller (1-gallon carboy) version of this fermenter uses
bimetal thermostats in a 25-watt heater ($7 at a local pet store), and
keeps the temperature within 3-4 degrees C if we play with it all the
time. :+{

Willie Smith
wpns@pictel.com
From: steve@caticsuf.csufresno.edu (Steve Mitchell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Disposable Fermenters
Date: 10 Nov 92 19:50:53 GMT
Article-I.D.: nic.1992Nov10.115054.3129
Distribution: world
Organization: CSU, Fresno


Thanks to all those who responded to my request for
information regarding using a bottled water company's
plastic bottles as fermenters, and letting the water
company do the cleaning for me.

Many people who responded said that it has been done
before, and that it will work.  However, I was reminded
of the following: 

	1) Be sure that the plastic is not a type that
	   will react with alcohol.

	2) Be careful with sanitation because bottled
	   water may not be as sanitary as us brewers
	   are used to.

	3) Be careful using plastic bottles as secondary
	   fermenters since the plastic may exchange gasses
	   with the outside air -- leading to oxygenation.

Many people also pointed out that cleaning a plastic 
fermenter need not scratch it, as long as plenty of 
bleach with boiling water is applied to do the dirty
work.

Thanks again to all those who responded.

--steve
-- 
Steve Mitchell / steve_mitchell@csufresno.edu / steve@caticsuf.csufresno.edu
"STUFF: Things you use for home brewing."  "JUNK: Things you thought you 
 could use for home brewing, but can't."
From: slndw@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: yeasty beasties
Date: 12 Nov 92 10:38:21 MDT
Organization: Utah State University

Greetings.

I have a question about ale yeast and cool temperatures.  The room
I brew in has cooled off for the season.  It is now around 13-15 C.
I like ales, so that is what I brew.  The optimal temperature for 
ale yeast is 15-22 C.  I am brewing in the lager yeast optimal 
range (10-15 C).  Now, if brewing a lager at ale fermentation 
temperatures is a "steam beer," is an ale brewed at lager temperatures
called an "ice beer?" :)  My ferments seem to keep going, albiet slower
than usual and with minimal or no blowoff.  I realize fermenting at
warmer than optimal temperatures can cause characteristic flavors (I
don't want to call them "off" flavors because one of my warm fermented
ales was really loved by my next door neighbor, but maybe we are "off").
I doubt that cooler than normal temps will contribute to any funk,
except that I am getting no blowoff.  As I understand, cooler temps
lead to slower ferments but the yeast becomes more attenuative (i.e.
more alcohol produced per fermentable).  Anyone got any comments??
The cooler temperatures do help the yeast to floc out leaving
a lovely bright beverage.

Also, I am fermenting a pyment (grape mead) with concord grapes from 
our yard and champagne yeast.  Anyone know what the optimal temperature
range for champagne yeasts are??  Anyone gonna tell me??  Currently
the pyment is in another room where it is a bit warmer.

In addition, I am going to pitch yeast into 5 gal. of cider.  Anyone
got any recomends on what yeast to use?  (this is FRESH cider from 
an orchard in our neighborhood; it was pressed tuesday night and it
is delicious).

Comments to SLNDW@cc.usu.edu

thanks.

-toot
From: ulick@bernini.helios.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: weizens revisited
Date: 5 Nov 92 17:20:54 GMT
Organization: OUC, University of Notre Dame

I posted a comment a while back about lack of weizen character from using
Wyeast.  Yesterday I racked the trhird weizen I did with the wyeast.  I
used it this time by racking the wort straight into the primary from the 
previous batch.  It is superb, but very cloudy - maybe it'll clear a 
bit.  I'd like tyo enter it in competition but I am worried that the judges
will say 14 (1057) - too high (it has fermented out to 3 by the way).  Is
there a recommended gravity range for Weizens.

I intend to bottle it in a week or so, krausen with a fresh lager yeast.
The sordid details are 5lb wheat, 5lb 2row brewers 5-6 gallons (~33 points),
step mashed au miller, hopped with 1.5-2 oz US Hallertauer half 30 and 60
before boil end.


+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 
+ 'There was a  master come unto the earth, + Ulick Stafford, PP-ASEL       +
+    born in the holy land of Indiana,      + Dept of Chemical Engineering, +
+ in the mystical hills east of Fort Wayne'.+ Notre Dame, IN 46556          +
+      B'fhearr liom bheith ag eitilt.      +    ulick@bach.helios.nd.edu   +
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From: devine@olympus.CS.Berkeley.EDU (bob devine)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: preserves instead of fruit?
Date: 11 Nov 1992 23:01:53 GMT
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
NNTP-Posting-Host: olympus.cs.berkeley.edu
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL3

Several other things:
It is always best to use real fruit because the taste of a
preserve/jam/jelly is not exactly the same as the raw fruit.

Great Fermentations (Byron Burch's joint) is now selling
concentrated fruit flavor extracts.  I haven't used it but
the new catalog listed a 4 fl. oz. bottle that is supposed
to be enough for a 5 gallon batch.  Price is about $4.

Bob Devine
From: peterm@dtc.hp.com (Sweet Pete)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: cleaning wort chillers
Date: 11 Nov 92 01:25:26 GMT
Organization: Where No Man Has Gone Before

In article <1doounINNkab@darkstar.UCSC.EDU> wolfgang@cats.ucsc.edu (Robert Frank Dougherty) writes:
>
>I just clean mine with soapy water after use.  To sterilize it, I remove
>the vinyl tubing and pop the chiller in the oven and bake it at about 350F
>for about 20 minutes.  I do this when I start brewing and just leave it

I put mine in the boil for the last 10 minutes.  This is guaranteed to
sterilize it , but I'm wondering if I'm likely to get any tainting.
Comments?

	Peter
-- 
Peter C. Maxwell,                      ARPA:   peterm@dtc.hp.com
Hewlett-Packard Company,
5301 Stevens Creek Blvd, MS 53U/36,    UUCP:   ..!hplabs!hpdtlpm!peterm
Santa Clara, CA 95052-8059             (408) 553 2512
From: esharp@sage.cc.purdue.edu (The Baker)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Cider body
Date: 6 Nov 92 18:42:25 GMT
Article-I.D.: mentor.BxB5Aq.D30
Distribution: all
Organization: Purdue University Computing Center


 I was just drinking an ESC (E Sharp Cider) and, though I have finally
gotten the dry-hopping right and LOVE the hoppy-apple taste, I like a
bit more body in my drinks.  What, besides flaked barley, can I use to
increase the body?  I was thinking of just dipping into my supply of
oatmeal and steeping about 1 cup/gallon of cider for about 1/2 hour and
adding it to the cider.  Any thoughts?  I've added such fun things as
other fruits and some DME (big mistake, quite enough fermentables in
the cider alone, last time I make anything over 10%!) but I would like
something that doesn't change the taste that much but still adds body.
Thanks, 

******************************************************************************* All animals are strictly dry, they sinless live and swiftly die.
But sinful, Ginful, beer soaked man survives three score years and ten
                                                -origin unknown-
*******************************************************************************
Edwin Sharp
esharp@sage.cc.purdue.edu
From: larrylf@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Larry Lynch-Freshner)
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 17:47:23 GMT
Subject: Re: Color guidelines
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing

I have had many of the same troubles trying to determine and measure color.
The problem is that more then grain affects the color of the beer.
Also, there is two different SRM scales that I have seen in print, one with
'black' at 20, and one with 'black' at 40.  I have had the most luck using the
'black' at 40 scale.  I use a 60 min. boil, which is also a factor.

good luck!
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: reb@Ingres.COM (Phydeaux)
Subject: Re: Spiced Holiday Beer
Reply-To: reb@Ingres.COM (Phydeaux)
Organization: E 4th St Home For The Overeducated Underemployed - Chicago Div.
Date: 11 Nov 92 21:02:55 GMT

In article <1992Nov10.210222.6855@sierra.com> tbiggs@sierra.com (Todd Biggs) writes:
>I'm sure this has come up before but here it goes again.  I'm about to
>start a batch of wheat beer, but would like to give it a little bit of that
>old holiday spirit.  I'm wondering what spices I should or shouldn't add,
>where in the brewing process I should add them, and how much of them I 
>should be adding.  Will the oils from the spices effect the beer in any 
>negative way ?  What has worked best for the rest of you ? 

Orange peel,  cinnamon stick,  and  ginger!   

A friend added marashino cherries to a  batch of his  (yech!)  and the
thing seemed  to  ferment ...  it's   a  wonder it  did  with all  the
preservatives inthem.  Haven't tasted it yet, we bottle it tonight!

Oh, BTW, does anyone have ideas as to how much maple syrup to add
if I were to use it to prime bottles?
					reb
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: rp9780@mexico (Rudyard A K Porter)
Subject: Re: Custom coasters
Organization: Medtronic, Inc.
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1992 14:16:30 GMT

aehall@sumax.seattleu.edu (...) writes:
: Hi!
: 
: I've been brewing for quite a while now and I'd like to have some of my
: own coasters (I'm not sure of the German spelling... bierdecke?).  I don't
: want any of those wimpy paper ones, I want ones like those found in
: Germany -> thick pressed paper (or what ever they're made of...).
: 
: Does anyone know where I can get some made up?  Preferable in relatively
: small quantities.  I don't need 10,000 of them.  Does anyone know about
: pricing?
: 
: Thanks in advance,
: 
: Anthony
: 

Pick up a Zymurgy magazine.  I saw an article in there a while back
fro a company that did such a thing.  Cost? I don't remember, but it
sounded like a fun idea.

*******************************************************************************
Rudyard Anderson Knox Porter             *  Life's but a stumbling shadow,
rp9780@medtronic.com                     *  Full of sounds of beer glasses,
Minneapolis, Minnesota                   *  Signifying everything!  
                                         *     1st draught, MacBeth
*******************************************************************************
From: trodgers@nmsu.edu (Thomas Rodgers)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Wyeast 1214 Belgian Ale question
Date: 9 Nov 92 19:45:53 GMT
Organization: NMSU Computer Science

You can order lambic yeast and bacterial cultures through your
homebrew supply store from G.W. Kent.  I recently did this, they come
in two little test tubes, and you have to use them fairly quickly.
The cultures are B. Lambicus and Pediococcus Cervisea (sp?).
Apperently these are the major culprits in producing lambic.

Tom.
From: kelly@spyro.cray.com (Matt Kelly)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: All-grain PA doesn't taste right
Date: 5 Nov 92 18:54:50 GMT


Fellow brewers,

I'm calling on the veteran all-grain gurus for a little advice.

I'm rather new at all-grain brewing.  I recently brewed up a simple Pale Ale.
Everything went swimmingly from mash to bottling.  The trouble is that it
doesn't taste at all like I expected it to.  I don't think it's SUPPOSED to 
taste the way it does.  It is overhopped, for one thing, but that's not the
problem.  The flavor in question is a mildly bitter, alkaline-y taste.  It doesn't
have any "bite" to it, and the malty flavor (which was there at pitching time and
also at bottling time, to a lesser degree) is mostly gone.  It just tastes sort
of "flat".  It has been in the bottle 1 week.  

The details:

This recipe was 2.5 gallons:

5 lb. Klages 2-row malt
1/2 lb. 60L Caramel malt
1/2 oz. Northern Brewer (boil)
1/4 oz. Cascade (finish)
Wyeast 1056, in a starter of 1.030 light DME/H20

I did a step mash, 1/2 hour at 124F for a protein rest, then stepped up to
154F for 2 hours for conversion, then up to 168F for 10 minutes for mash out.
I sparged in an Igloo cooler fitted with a homemade slotted-copper-tubing sparge
manifold.  I sparged with 170F water, keeping the flow rate down to 1 Gal in 5
minutes.  The sparge went quite well.  Then I boiled the typical 45 minutes with
the boiling hops, followed by 10 minutes with the finishing hops.  I chilled
the wort down to 75F in 30 minutes using an ice water bath in the sink.  Poured
the cooled wort into my carboy, aerating the heck out of it.  Pitched starter.
The ferment took 12 days, with a VERY creamy, rich-looking kraeusen.  Bottled
using 1/3 C corn sugar boiled in 2 C water added to the bottling bucket.

My conversion was 26.  S.G 1052, F.G. 1010.

Could it be fusel alcohols?  I fermented at 65F, but one day it got up to 72F
for most of the day, which I've heard can cause fusel production.  I would think
that fusel alcohols would taste harsher than this, tho.

I have never had much luck brewing lighter beers.  I thought doing it all-grain
would make a better light beer.  :'(

Any ideas????????  Any advice welcome.

Thanks in advance,

Matt K.


==============================================================================
kelly@els.cray.com                   |
                                     | Semper ubi sub ubi.
Opinions expressed herein are just   |
that.  Mine, not Cray's.             | -Julius Caesar
                                     |
==============================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: gcohen@mailer.cc.fsu.edu (Gregory Cohen)
Subject: Re: Orlando, Florida
Organization: Florida State University
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 92 20:43:41 GMT

For those of you who are going to orlando and are looking for good beer,
The first place to stop is the Prince of Wales.  it's on Fairbanks ave.
They have about 12-15 exotic beers on tap I can recal Guinnes, harp,
John Courage, Watney's Red, Watney's Cream ale, Watney's ESB.
And many more including ciders (although not on tap).  The owner moved
his whole bar from wales to Orlando, lock stock stainglass and wood works.
Technicaly this is in Winter Park, a suburb or Orlando that has dreams of
grandure.  

To get their get off I-4 at the Fairbanks Avenue exit.  There will be a sign
pointing either to DownTown Winter Park or towards Rollins College.  Go that way
As soon as you are off the interstate there is a store called Skycraft surplus.
It has a giant flying saucer on the roof and big red missles in the parking lot.
I mention this not to be used as a land mark, but because it is possible the
greatest electronics suplus store in the country (I'd like other opinons on
this if you get to visit it)  about a mile or so on the left is the prince of
Wales.  It's just passed orange ave.  Within a quarter mile past that is the  
Mill bakery and eatery mentioned in an above letter.  They have a wonderful
beer sampler plate of their homemade beer.  It is a good price for a lot of
good beer.  I prefer their "Gator Tale" (Dark).

Another place to go for atmosphere as well as good beer is the Bull and Bush
It is within a 5 minute drive from the Prince of wales.  Get directions from
the prince of wales, you'll never find it without someone pointing on a map.
It's a wonderful place (good shepards pie), small and truly hiddon.  I don't
know of another bar that has TV and a satilite dish just to get the rugby games.
They have these wonderfull little brass placks everywhere commemerating important events, such as when so-and-so became the first person to fall off a bar
stool.  Or that so and so was the first person to break water in the bar.  
Go when they have their musician there who sing traditional irish bar songs.
Needless to say that everyone that works at this place is Irish.

If you need futher directions, please feel free to drop me E-Mail

-Greg Cohen
gcohen@mailer.acns.fsu.edu
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Beware of the Fnord or it will eat you.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++



Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing