HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: Pre-luber summary & Oil Changes
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 12:47:24 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 If you want to build one of those pressure cans yourself, what you probably
want is a hydraulic accumulator and a 12V solenoid valve to open/close 
the outlet. I don't know how much the accumulators run but you could find out
by shopping the hydraulic supply places in the yellow pages. These accumulators
are pressure vessels with either a spring or an air bladder to provide return 
pressure. An inlet restriction may be desirable to keep the thing from 
slurping up all the oil once you start or during transients. Note that some
modifications may be needed; these accumulators are usually set up for
up to 2000PSI, and oil systems are running maybe 20-80. A lighter spring
might do it. 

 As far as external oil pumps go, a company called March makes a line of 
sealless pumps which might do. These have a magnetically coupled impeller
which spins in isolation. One of these with a check valve on the outlet 
tee'd in parallel with the main oil pump is a possibility.

 You'll probably want to use the oil pressure sender hole for the feed
because it's already there. However this is usually after the oil filter,
so unless the preluber is sourcing filtered oil (the can sources what it gets)
you may be introducing crud. Adding new plumbing (drilling and tapping) may
not be something you want to do unless you're planning to have the engine apart
anyway. You might take a look at the engine though; in some cases the oil 
system has access holes with threaded plugs, maybe even where they'll do you
some good.
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
From: pnelson@cobra.Tymnet.COM (Phil Nelson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Odd acceleration problem w/89 Chrysler LeBaron
Summary: another one, same problem
Date: 26 Aug 92 00:39:03 GMT
Organization: BT North America (Tymnet)

In article <1992Aug24.161903.19100@swlvx2.msd.ray.com> hsd@swlrat.msd.ray.com (HERBERT DASILVA) writes:
|scott@zorch.SF-Bay.ORG (Scott Hazen Mueller) writes:
|
||I'm having an odd problem with my 1989 Chrysler LeBaron.  I'm hoping for
||pointers either to a solution, or to a competent (probably computer-literate)
||mechanic in the South San Francisco Bay Area.
|
||The car is the GTS (hatchback) model with the 4-cylinder turbo, automatic
||transmission.  The problem is that when accelerating hard, such as to merge
||onto a freeway, the car gets up to about 3500 RPM and then quits - it just
||stops accelerating.  The RPMs drop to about 3000 or so, and the engine kicks
||back in like nothing happened.  The effect on smoothness is unpleasant, to


|  Yup, you're running into an overboost condition, and the engine shuts you
|  down to keep you from blowing up the motor.  This can be caused by
|  several factors, like:
|
|  1. A vacuum leak to the wastegate, or improperly adjusted wastegate

The guy who works in the cube next to me had this happen to his '89 GTC,
he says it was a collapsed vacuum line.


-- 
Phil Nelson . [ames|pyramid]!oliveb!tymix!pnelson . Voice:408-922-7508

  To make an apt answer is a joy to a man,
       and a word in season, how good it is!            Proverbs 15:23
From: pwu@oreo.ai.mit.edu (Peng Wu)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: front end problems
Date: 29 Aug 92 01:36:27 GMT

Dear Netters:

My car pulls to one side then another quite noticeably when it accelerates
hard and the auto transmission is shifting.  In other conditions, i.e., normal
acceleration or constant speed, the car pulls to one side only slightly.  One
front tire has worn a little bit more than the other.  Two rear tires are
quite different in brand and in wear.  The car is Topaz 85, front wheel drive,
auto, and power steering.  What could be the problem relating to hard
acceleration?

Many thanks in advance,

Peng Wu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: Help, Peugeot stalling problem
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 92 09:56:47 GMT

Yi Sun (ys0n+@andrew.cmu.edu) wrote:
: I have a '84 Peugeot 505GL, inline 4, auto.  The car has trouble in
: starting.  I have to rev the engine at high rpm for a minute or so
: before I can start to drive.  Otherwise it will stall.  The problem
: seems to be weather sensitive.  The warmer the temperature, the longer I
: have to keep reving the engine.
: 
It sounds like your cold-start injector isn't kicking in for some reason.
It could be a bad injector, or a bad temperature sensor (tells the injector
to open).  Is this a Bosch system?  If so, what does the flow sensor
look like (heated wire, or deflected vane type)?

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.
hinzd@picard.med.ge.com
From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Trouble starting 1984 Mercedes 190E
Date: Thu, 03 Sep 1992 18:56:09 -0500

 SU>   I recently purchased a 1984 Mercedes 190E (from a relative)
 SU> and its started having problems starting and idling.  Most
 SU> of the time it starts up and runs great but occasionally it
 SU> starts and dies, starts and dies, starts and dies ... about,
 SU> say, ten times and when it finally does get going the idle
 SU> is too low to keep it running so I have to drive with both
 SU> feet.  Anybody have any hints or clues?

Next time it happens when you are away from home, I suggest you call the M-B
Roadside Assistance Service. You can get their number from the toll-free
operator.
From: Sherman@128.147.155.27 (Sherman Uitzetter)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Trouble starting 1984 Mercedes 190E
Date: 2 Sep 92 16:43:44 GMT
Organization: Pittsburgh NMRI
X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1.1d3
X-Date: Wed, 02 Sep 92 12:47:09 GMT




  I recently purchased a 1984 Mercedes 190E (from a relative)
and its started having problems starting and idling.  Most
of the time it starts up and runs great but occasionally it
starts and dies, starts and dies, starts and dies ... about,
say, ten times and when it finally does get going the idle
is too low to keep it running so I have to drive with both
feet.  Anybody have any hints or clues?


Thanks alot in advance,
-Sherman.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: paal-sb@hsr.no (Paal Steinar Berg)
Subject: Re: Different tyre sizes & remoulds
Keywords: Tyre, Tire, Remoulds, Size, Panda, Fiat, Ireland
Organization: Rogaland University Centre
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 09:40:49 GMT

In article <dagraham.715196459@unix1.tcd.ie>, dagraham@unix1.tcd.ie (David Graham) writes:
> 
> Hi, 
> 
> A couple of months ago I posted a question about the advantages of using 
> wider rather than narrower tyres. Now the time has come such that at 
> least one of my tyres needs replacing, so I expect (since I'm not rolling 
> in money) that I may replace two of the tyres at a time since I have at 
> least two tyres with plenty of tread depth left. I may well go up one or 
> possibly two sizes after reading the responses to my previous post, so 
> I'll go from 135 to 145 or perhaps 155, although I'm not sure how well 
> 155's would fit on my 4" wheels.
> 
> My first question is, is there anything wrong with having two of the 
> tyres wider than the other two tyres? I'd be inclined to put the new 
> tyres on the front (steering and drive end) and would thus end up with 
> slightly wider tyres at front than at back. Could this cause any problems 
> for the handling, traction, steering, etc?
> 
Changing fron 135 to 145 or 155 won't make a great difference. The steering may
get heavier, but this depends on the type and make of tyre. On a front wheel
drive you'd better start with the wider tyres in front, since most of the wight
is there. How about the authorities, do they allow you to use different size
tyres?

> My other question is about remoulds; I don't know if these exist in the 
> US where most of you will probably be reading this, but anyway. Small 
> cars are popular here in Ireland (not what you'd call small in the US- my 
> Fiat Panda is small but not the smallest and weighs 600kg (~1400lb), has 
> a 45bhp 903cc engine and is 3.3m (133") long and 1.4m (57") wide, just to 
> give you an idea.) Because of astronomical prices and various taxes, 
> a large proportion of cars on Irish roads are small and under 1000cc in
> engine capacity. (Comparison- 1992 top of the range Civic here is IR#18000
> = $34000!!) Anyway, I'm wandering a bit; remoulds are also popular amongst
> people with small cars and little money. Now, I have no intention of buying 
> remoulds, but when I got my Panda last February, three of the tyres were 
> remoulds. My question is this: I know remoulds aren't really great, but 
> how bad are they? What is the comparison (handling, traction, steering, 
> etc) between a car equipped with remoulded tyres and a car equipped with 
> new, 'ordinary' tyres?
> 
In our last meeting in the Club Alfa Romeo of Norway, we ran a racetrack on an
air-strip, and the only car that spunn out was the one using remoulds! When
watchin, it was obvious thet he had a lot less grip than most of the other cars.
In addition remoulds have a tendency of not being completely round, thus causing
vibration and wobble.

> Many thanks, please excuse my verbose posting,
> 
> David
> --
> 

Paal 		---Alfa Romeo, the living legend.---
From: samblane@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Sean Samblanet)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: octane boosters (was Re: Broquet: Fuel Catalyst)
Date: 3 Sep 92 13:10:14 GMT
Reply-To: samblane@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Sean Samblanet)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.autos.tech, jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond) writes:
:ggg@hpsad.sad.hp.com (Gary Goodlund) writes:
:(stuff deleted)
:>I'd like to find another product that reduced detonation effectively
:>but didn't cause these problems.  So far, I haven't seen anything on
:>the market in Northern California.
:
:Easy.  Good old fashioned toluene.  At about $1.60 a gallon in 50 gallon
:lots (recent quotes) and at a rate of about a quart per tank for about
:3 or 4 points octane boost, it's about a cheap as you can get and no
:fouling.
:
:John
A question along these lines.  Does toluene or 104 octane boost or any
octane booster raise the octane rating the same amount for 87 octane
as 93 or 94 premium fuel?  100 octane fuel is much more expensive($3.50/gal)
and hard to find.  Can any additive boost 94 octane to about 100 octane?

Sean
From: vlj@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Victor Johnson)
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 14:58:09 GMT
Subject: Re: Mildew odors from ventilation system.
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

In rec.autos.tech, sborders@nyx.cs.du.edu (Scott Borders) writes:

> This has also been posted to rec.autos; my apologies to those of
> you who have already seen this once.
> 
> I have a new (1 month old) '92 Laser.  For the last week or two a
> moldy/mildewy odor has been coming from my vents.  The dealership
> has been little help, though they have checked the A/C drain  
> for clogs and found nothing.  The best they suggest is to use
> air freshener in the fresh-air intake.  This would seem to be a
> case of treating the symptom rather than the root cause.
> 
> One of the rec.autos readers sent me private mail indicating that
> he had heard of a product that is sprayed into the ventilation
> system that will destroy mold and mildew; unfortunately he could
> not recall the name of the product.  Since the dealership seems
> clueless here, I was hoping to draw on net.wisdom - has anyone
> heard of such a product?  If so, *please* e-mail me with the
> info.  I know that if I can give the dealership a product name, I
> am much more likely to get results.
> 
> I can be reached via e-mail either on this account or at
> borders_scott@tandem.com (my work address).  Thanks for any
> help you can give . . . 
> 
>                           Scott

  This is common with many newer models.  I have the same problem with
  a 90 Accord.  Seal technology has progressed to the point that there
  is very little circulation with all of the windows closed, hence
  mold in the "wet" places.  (Kinda reminds me of a blind date I had in
  Philly one time :->)

  Several steps can mitigate the problem.  I have gotten into the habit
  of turning off the AC ~5-10 minutes before I reach my destination to
  allow the source of the condensation to come up closer to the ambient
  temperature and dry out a bit.  In addition, leaving a window or two
  cracked while the car is parked will allow a little more circlation
  and will lessen the symptoms.

  These techniques have not completely eliminated the odor but have
  lessened it to an almost tolerable level.  It is annoying to jump
  into your "new" car and have it smell like a mushroom fart isn't it!

  I have never considered taking to a dealer to ameliorate the condition
  since those knuckle draggers can only screw up the entire dash and
  ventilation system, strip threads, leave screws completely missing and
  give you a bunch of new rattles.

  Cheers,
  Victor Johnson
  ---------------------------------------------------------------------
  Disclaimer: Opinions are like a**holes, we've all got em, most stink.
  ---------------------------------------------------------------------
From: samblane@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Sean Samblanet)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Clutch adjustment
Date: 3 Sep 92 12:10:39 GMT
Reply-To: samblane@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Sean Samblanet)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.autos.tech, alter@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (Eric Alter) writes:
:I just got an '88 Beretta GT (V6, 5 speed).  I don't particularly like the
:action of the clutch as it takes very little to engage.  I'd like to back it of
:f
:(the pedal might travel and inch or 2 more before engaging) and am wondering ho
:Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can change my clutch adjustment?

    As another posting said I found the opposite to be true.  I owned
the same car('88 beretta GT V6,5 speed) and did not like the clutch
feel either.  I went to adjust the clutch but found out it has a hydraulic
clutch which is supposed to be automatic adjusting.  If there is a way
to adjust hydraulic clutches(not just bleed them)I would like to know
how myself.

:
:Next question:  On the V6's, is there a trick to get to the spark plugs back
:behind the engine next to the firewall?  I'm not sure I can get my arm/hand bac
:there along with tools and be able to extract the plugs.

    I basically laid on top of the engine to get to the back side.
I remember 2 of the 3 were pretty easy but one takes some doing.  I
just used the regular spark plug socket and ratchet.

    Over all I really enjoyed the car.  I also have two extra wheels
with Yokohama 008 tu(orRs) (soft compound race tires) that I used when
I went to the race track for some driving schools.  If anyone wants
them please email. Cheap. Also if anyone wants a helpful hint for this
car please e-mail.

Sean
From: tcora@PICA.ARMY.MIL (Tom Coradeschi <tcora>)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: overheating
Date: 3 Sep 92 16:47:03 GMT
Article-I.D.: pica.1992Sep3.164703.19189
Organization: Electric Armts Div, US Army ARDEC, Picatinny Arsenal, NJ

kz08+@andrew.cmu.edu (Ken Zuroski) writes:
>I have a Ford '86 F150 pickup. My wife was driving it today, and she did
>not notice that the temperature gauge was creeping up. As she pulled into
>our driveway (luckily then), the engine died and boiled over. I opened the
>hood and looked inside--no coolant left in the radiator; oil level looked
>good. I replaced the water/coolant mixture and cranked the engine again. It
>started with no problem and seems to be running well. 
>
>I suspect a leak in the cooling system, and figure that the coolant simply
>ran dry. There is one other sympton that is confusing me, however. Now even
>with a full radiator, whenever the truck is idling and I turn on the heater,
>the air coming out of the heater remains cool until I rev the engine a bit--
>then it heats up momentarily and then gets cool again. This is not the same
>response that I remember before the engine boiled over. Then, the heater seemed
>to heat up quickly even at idle and gave good constant heat output. 

Check the coolant level. It's quite likely that you didn't fill it up
all the way. Run the engine until the thermostat opens (you will see
the coolant level drop in the radiator), then top it off. If the level
is sufficiently low, you will experience what you note re: intermittent
heater operation, since there isn't enough fluid in the system to get
good flow thru the heater (or to cool the engine, for that matter).

Let us know what happens...
-- 
 
                tom coradeschi    <+>    tcora@pica.army.mil
From: borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Spark plug wire help
Date: 28 Aug 92 22:14:47 GMT
Organization: Hewlett Packard Company, Spokane, Wa.

>In rec.autos.tech, brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks) writes:
>
>In article <714294037.F00001@blkcat.UUCP> Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory) writes:
>> DT> And of course you could have a Model-T, without a generator or 
>> DT> alternator,
>> DT> but it does have spark plug wires, and a battery to run the ignition.
>>
>>Didn't the Model-T have magneto ignition?
>>
>>
>Yes, it did. No batteries required :-)

Well, yes, but...

What the Model-T had were 4 ignition coils(one per cylinder),
which would provide spark voltage
continuously while energized.  They were energized though a distributor-like
system on the low voltage side.

The standard way for starting the car was to flip a switch so that this
distributor was connected to a battery (typically a "Hot-Shot" battery or
three #6 cells).  You then cranked the engine.  When it started, you would
flip a switch to then run the ignition coils from the magneto.

IF you had a stong arm, and IF everything was well tuned up, you COULD start
the engine with just the magneto.

Yeh, yeh, I know.  Later Model-T's had electric starters and seperate
generators to recharged the storage battery.  But the ignition system stayed
the same.


Donald Borowski    WA6OMI    Hewlett-Packard, Spokane Division
"Angels are able to fly because they take themselves so lightly."
                                       -G.K. Chesterton
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: chenh@neptune.ecs.csus.edu (H. Philip Chen)
Subject: Re: MR2 speakers
Keywords: mr2,speakers
Organization: California State University, Sacramento
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 92 07:46:19 GMT

bell@asdsun.larc.nasa.gov (John Bell) writes:
|saundersb@gtephx.UUCP (Bary Saunders) writes:
|> I just bought a '86 Toyota mr2, the speakers are lacking to say the least
|> Has anyone beefed up the speaker system with much luck, and if so what
|> did you use? I can't believe the powered 5"(at best) woofer under the
|> drivers seat, cute but not very affective.
|[...]
|	1. The cheapest and easiest option is to replace the cheesy 4"
|speakers Toyota puts in the dash with higher quality speakers. Crutchfield
|sells a set that are designed just to fit in Toyotas, made (I think) by
|JVC.

Those are custom made by Pioneer to fit the Toyota's.  JVC makes the
regular ones only.  I installed a pair of the Pioneer's in my friend's 
new Corolla the other day.  I wouldn't really recommend these speakers.
It can't handle much power -- just a few watts, and the cones will 
start giving audible distortions.  Some bass-blockers (or capacitors) 
will probably help in his case.  The mids and highs sounded ok though.

Anyway Bary, try rec.audio.car too.  There are lots of stereo fans
there.  Just specify the items that you're interested in (eg. usual
speakers only, or with subs, etc), along with a budget/range, and 
netters there will be happy to give you more suggestions.


[other info & suggestions by John deleted to save bandwidth]



Cheers,

-phil
From: pshyvers@pyrnova.mis.pyramid.com (Peter Shyvers)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Converting to electronic ignition
Keywords: air-points, electronic ignition, convertion, Bosch, Piranha
Date: 28 Aug 92 19:03:16 GMT
Reply-To: pshyvers@pyrnova.pyramid.com (Peter Shyvers)
Organization: Pyramid Technology Corp., Mountain View, CA
Originator: daemon@sword.eng.pyramid.com

In article <BtoK9E.Lwy@resmel.bhp.com.au> yang@resmel.bhp.com.au (Sam Yang) writes:
>This is an enquiry about converting a points ignition system into an
>electronic one for a Toyota Corolla 10/1983 KE70 Wagon. The car has
>a 1.3L 4 cylinder engine (4KC). The similar article was posted 7 hours
>ago but it did not appear in the net.
>
>I drive about 80km/day to work. One of the problem with the car is that
>it eat contact points too quickly -- one in about half a year. The
>performance degrades noticeably when the points getting older. Someone
>suggested me to use a different kind of points -- air points which has
>a hole in the platinum. Does anyone has any experience with this kind
>of points? Are they any good? What is the best brand I should look for?
>
My experience is largely with '70's Toyotas, as well as my own '76 2TC
Corolla (160K+ miles!) and my '82 3TC Corolla (105K+ miles.)

I doubt, unless the model you've got is quite antique architecturally, that
you've fully-conventional points-based ignition. Both of mine, and every
Toyota I've worked on, have "partially transistorized" ignitions. The setup
is such that the amount of current flowing across the points is reduced;
that in turn reduces the heat build-up, sparking/arcing, and consequent
pitting/burning/corroding.

As far as air points, I've seen designs in which there's a hole thru the
centre of the points, but I've never seen definitive proof that they're any
better.

No question that performance falls off when the points degrade - the point
gap is disturbed. But I'm amazed that you're suffering this problem; In
250K+ miles of Corollas personally, as well as all my customers, I've rarely
seen significant pitting/wear, and change them more for the wear to the
rubbing block and general surface discoloration...
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: brownr@hydra.rtp.dg.com (Tall Randy Brown)
Subject: Re: Pressurize Oil Before Starting ?
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 92 13:17:21 GMT
Organization: DG-RTP Graphics Group

In article <15200039@spd.HP.COM> paulw@hpspdla.spd.HP.COM (Paul Welch) writes:
>
>I have seen (many moons ago) information on a company that provides
>"before you start it" oil pumps.  Basically, you add an aux. oil
>pump that runs off the battery, and you pressurize your lubrication
>system before turning the key to start the engine.  I have also 
>read that on a typical 500 mile trip, 98% of the engine wear occurs
>in the first ten seconds.

Richard (I know you're out there), how about adding this to the FAQ?

They are call 'pre-oilers' or 'pre-lubers', you can buy them from Summit
Racing, among other places, they have a model from LRI for $560, 1 yr
warranty.  Summit's phone is 216-798-9440.  The system runs your oil
pressure up to 55 psi if you desire, and then you start the car.  Hocus-
pocus, you have reduced your engine wear by 90-95% (first ten seconds
after startup).  So, add one to your engine and it should last 1-2 million
miles (if the average engine lasts 100K miles today).

I have never heard of anyone using one of these, or any magazine reviewing
one of these to determine the improvement in engine life.

Randy
From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP