HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: pharvey@quack.sac.ca.us (Paul Harvey)
Subject: really really really hot chiles
Organization: The Duck Pond public unix: +1 408 249 9630, log in as 'guest'.
Date: 16 Nov 1992 00:07:10 UTC

Due to usenet demand, the following distributors now carry the world's
hottest chiles (tepin and pequin):
Mojave Foods Corp, LA, CA, 90032
	(available in San Jose, CA at Cosentinos)
El Aguila Food Products, Salinas, CA, 93901
These are both wild chiles from Western Mexico. Tepin, the world's
hottest according to Guiness Book of World Records, is a round, about
1/2 inch, chile. Pequin is about 1/2 inch long and cylindrical. Both of
these chiles have very little flesh and are used as a spice, one will do
the trick. The seeds are difficult to germinate. From Redwood City Seed:
Tepin, Pequin and some Mexican chile varieties are wild or
semi-domesticated. Their seeds have a dormancy which causes slow
germination of up to two months if temperatures are under 85oF. To speed
up germination use saltpeter (Potassium nitrate) available at many
Chinese food stores or some pharmacies. Mix 1/2 teaspoon to one quart of
water and soak seeds in this solution for 4 hours before planting. Drain
and save this solution to water seedlings. Keep seeds at a constant
85-90oF. Give light if possible. These higher temps usually produce the
following results: Tepin: 0-30% germination the first week after sowing,
20-50% the second week, 45-80% by the third week and 60-90% by the
fourth.
From: woodley@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Judy Woodley)
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 19:05:57 GMT
Subject: Re: Meal moths (was Re: fungus gnats)
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.gardens

I've never seen the pheromone traps in stores.  Where might one find them?
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: dplatt@ntg.com (Dave Platt)
Subject: Meal moths (was Re: fungus gnats)
Organization: New Technologies Group, Inc.  Palo Alto CA
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 20:06:41 GMT

>	While I have your attention, I was infested with these little
>unassuming brown moths in my garage, I put out the bug zapper to try to
>catch them, but they where not attracted to it. I didn't think to much
>about it until these small white catapillar or larva started to appear. They
>have infested my chicken feed.

Oh, those pestiferous little grain and meal moths.  My wife and I tend
to have an infestation of these arrive every year or so - usually due to
a larva in some whole-grains that we bring home from a natural-foods
store, I guess.  Last night, we figured out why there had been moths in
one of our bedrooms - they'd gotten into Gwen's jewelry-box and had been
chowing down on her Indian-corn necklace.  AARGH - it was a total loss.

I've found three techniques which seem to help keep these pests under
control without involving the use of poisons:

[1] We keep flour, cereals, whole grains, etc. sealed in glass or plastic
    (Tupperware-type) containers.

[2] When we bring a new whole-grain batch home from the store, I stick
    it in the deep-freezer for a couple of weeks.  This seems to kill
    most or all of the larvae.

[3] I put up some pheromone traps - cardboard boxes with sticky innards,
    and a small timed-release membrane containing meal-moth sex-
    attractant pheromones.  According to the instructions, it will
    attract the sexually-mature moths away from food if it's within ten
    feet of their location.  The traps work slowly but effectively - the
    one on our kitchen has caught several dozen moths, and our kitchen
    infestation is now under control.

-- 
Dave Platt                                                VOICE: (415) 813-8917
              Domain: dplatt@ntg.com      UUCP: ...netcomsv!ntg!dplatt
 USNAIL: New Technologies Group Inc. 2468 Embarcardero Way, Palo Alto CA 94303
From: che358w@vaxc.cc.monash.edu.au
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: List of cold climate gums
Date: 16 Nov 92 15:03:46 +1100
Organization: Computer Centre, Monash University, Australia

A  few weeks ago someone wrote asking about growing Eucalypts in Boston
and this sparked a conversation about cold climate gums. Here is a list
of cold climate gums from the Better Homes and Gardens Native Plants book.
As they are australian they can withstand high temperatures and dry
conditions as well as cold, snow and frost.

Latin Name              Common Name

E. alpina               Grampians Gum
E. chapmaniana          Bogong Gum
E. coccifera            Tasmanian SnowGum
E. glaucesens           Tingiringi Gum
E. manifera maculosa    Red Spotted Gum
E. pauciflora           Snow Gum
E. perriniana           Spinning Gum
E. risdonii             Risdon Pepermint
E. stellulata           Black Sally

Hope someone finds this of interest.
Samantha Lane
CHE358W@vaxc.cc.monash.edu.au
From: GC.SUL@forsythe.stanford.edu (Sullivan)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Almost no acorns this year:
Date: 17 Nov 1992 17:43:31 -0800
Organization: Stanford University
NNTP-Posting-Host: morrow.stanford.edu


    : sundare@watson.ibm.com (C. Sundaresan) writes:
Subject: Almost no acorns this year

Last year my 3 huge oak trees shed so many acorns in the fall, that
we were rolling down the driveway and covering our heads outside.
Falling from 100 - foot plus heights, they made dents in the cars
and quite a racket for weeks.
This year almost none!  It was a damp cool summer. Gypsy moths were
less of a problem than usual and the trees seem healthy.  I'm wondering
what factors determine acorn formation in a given year.
Chris Sundaresan


Where do you live the what type of Oak?  Many species (Black,
Oracle, Live, Interiior Live, etc) take two years to mature Acorns.
 Maybe you have this type of Oak

Karen
From: jhb@calmasd.prime.com (Jim Bishop)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: pencil trees
Date: 20 Nov 92 06:34:47 GMT
Organization: -

In article <1992Nov19.155640.25169@math.ucla.edu>, 
ramirez@julia.math.ucla.edu (Alice Ramirez) writes:

> Is it possible that pencil trees are what we out west call "Palo Verde?"

I think they usually are referring to euphorbias.

jim
From: Bob.Batson@mtask.omahug.org (Bob Batson)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: the joy of weird plants, no matter how nasty, etc......
Date: 17 Nov 92 17:14:39 CST
Reply-To: bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org
Organization: Multitasking Systems, Kansas City
Followup-To: rec.gardens

lynx@surrey.amigans.gen.nz (Lynsey Gedye) writes:

 > >There is another wonderfully repulsive yet delightful plant. I believe
 >  its
 > >Latin name is Solanum quitoense, a.k.a. "Naranjilla." 

                              [TEXT DELETED]

 > 
 >   Without doubt, the ultimate house plant.  My one reached about 1.2m
 >   before being laid low by an unseasonal frost, and I've never been able
 >   to find a replacement................................................

You might try the following:

        DUNCAN & DAVIES NURSERIES LTD.          [CAT $10]
        P.O. Box 340
        New Plymouth, New Zealand 
        64 67-48789                             [no tele. orders]

I'm not sure they sell you just ONE Naranjilla as they're supposedly
wholesale only, but they might tell you of a local retail outlet.

Also

        LANDSENDT SUBTROPICAL FRUITS            [CAT NZ $1.50]
        108 Parkers Road
        Oratia, Auckland, N.Z.
        09 818-6914


This source is probably your best bet


**************************************************************************


Bob Batson                        |   "xbsjywhspo ocmpszrgpuklepffff!"
bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org       |                 -- Cousin Itt

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: fred@mks.com (Fred Kratky)
Subject: Re: Pepper Plants
Organization: Mortice Kern Systems Inc., Waterloo, Ontario, CANADA
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 16:36:47 GMT

In article <25804@sybase.sybase.com> karenp@sybase.com (Karen Paulsell) writes:
>I've seen green bell pepper plants last pretty late in the year,
>but not through the winter.
>
>My neighbor's hot pepper plants are from last year, made it through
>last winter, they are really big and bushy and loaded with peppers now.
>If I recall correctly, though, their pepper plants did die in the big
>freeze of '90.
>
>So, yes, some pepper plants will make it through "normal" Bay Area

Peppers are indeed a perenial and will last forever in a frost free
environment.  I have no idea what happens to yields after the first year
as we tend to get a little frost up here in Canada :-))

-- 
     ||  // // ,'/~~\'   Fred Kratky		fred@mks.com 
    /||/// //|' `\\\     Mortice Kern Systems Inc.     (519) 884-2251
   / | //_// ||\___/     35 King St. N., Waterloo, Ont., Can. N2J 2W9
From: jane@soave.swdc.stratus.com (Jane Beckman)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Q: dwarf pomegranate, curry leaf plant
Date: 18 Nov 92 02:14:26 GMT
Organization: Stratus Computer, Inc., San Jose, CA

CURRY LEAF PLANT??!!  Where did you find one??  

(For those not in the know, this is not to be confused with
those artemisia-looking things called "curry plants" in the
herb section of the nursury.  If my recollection of the
picture in a book serves, they look sort of like a miniature
bay laurel.)

What was the source of this plant?  Inquiring minds (with
acquisitive plant-habits) want to know!
--
  Jilara   [jane@swdc.stratus.com]

"The field of pseudo-science hasn't progressed much in ten
years, except to gain access to the net." --from ca.earthquakes
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Fremontia (was: Horrible Plants)
Date: 23 Nov 92 11:11:05 -0600
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

In article <1992Nov19.223114.966@calmasd.prime.com>, jhb@calmasd.prime.com (Jim Bishop) writes:
> In article <1992Nov18.170743.8831@iscsvax.uni.edu>, 
> klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes:
> 
>> I'm also decidedly unfond of itch-inducing plants like Fremontia and
>> Mentzelia... though I'm happy to admire them from a distance.  Just please
>> don't ask me to collect them!!!! ;-)
>> 
> 
> Kay, what do you about growing Fremontia?  I didn't know they itch.  I
> bought one at a native plant sale.  I'm planning on planting it on a
> north facing slope with no summer shade.  The ground is our native
> caliche.  I've heard that they rot if given summer water.

It's a lovely shrub/small tree, but I wouldn't put it in areas where
you would expect much human contact with the plant (i.e., I wouldn't
put a park bench beneath one).  Also, I'd plan on pruning it as 
infrequently as possible, given the itch-ogenic properties of the
hairs, so I'd give plant it with mature size firmly in mind.

Kay Klier
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: james@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (James White)
Subject: Re: re:horseradish
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 23:08:00 GMT
Reply-To: JamesWhite@vnet.ibm.com
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM Rochester

In article <1992Nov13.144213.118@janus.arc.ab.ca>, thacker@RHEA.ARC.AB.CA writes:
|> I grow horseradish in my garden.  It is an incredibly hardy perrenial,
|> it'll stay green in the fall to about 20 F, and when it is fully
|> dormant in the winter -40 F won't even begin to bother it.  It
|> grows something like rhubarb, only the stalks are much thinner and
|> the leaves are long and pointy.  Around Edmonton it usually grows
|> about a foot and a half (50 cm) tall, but mine is growing next to
|> my composter and was over 3 feet tall (1 m ) this year.  
|> People have warned me to dig it out while I still can, because the
|> "plant from hell" can run rampant.  Mine has only been in the garden
|> two years and I don't see any evidence that it's spreading too far
|> yet......perhaps it's just biding it's time until I let my defenses
|> down.  

Just try rototilling it and you will see how it spreads.

|> I've had it suggested to me that the only sane way to grow
|> it is to plant it in a submerged oak half-barrel, as this contains
|> the plant and tends to make the roots grow much thicker.  The roots
|> on mine don't seem to be much thicker than a pencil now; I think
|> a properly grown, mature plant would have roots over an inch thick.

I personally do not like the really thick roots.  Just not as good tasting
as the young tender roots.  But the old roots do have a nasty flavor!


-- 

James White 
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: karen@athena.cs.uga.edu (Karen Snetselaar)
Subject: Re: Paulownia Rustlers
Organization: University of Georgia, Athens
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 13:09:33 GMT

In article <88.2b060314@ivgate> bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org writes:
> 
>                       Beware of Paulownia Rustlers
>
>  Wood of the fast-growing princess tree, Paulownia tomentosa, has become
>so valuable in Japan that thieves are cutting down princess trees in home
>landscapes in home landscapes for export. Apparently, paulownia rustling
>isn't rare in Virginia and Maryland cities and suburbs. Maybe homeowners
>and park managers should take a cue from radical environmentalists and
>post signs next to their princess trees, bearing this message: "SPIKED
>TREE! ANY ATTEMPT TO CUT COULD CAUSE SEVERE INJURY!" No, we're [HortIdeas]
>not suggesting that the trees ACTUALLY be spiked. There's no need for
>that, as long as would-be thieves THINK the trees are spiked.
>  Reference: Anonymous, "Rustlers Put the Hustle on a Prize Hardwood,"
>NURSERY MANAGER 8(9), September 1992, 20. (Branch-Smith Publishing, 120
>St. Louis Ave., Fort Worth, TX 76104.)
>--------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Reprinted with permission from the October 1992 _HortIdeas_. Copyright
>1992 by Greg and Pat Williams. HortIdeas is $15 (2nd class mail within the
>USA) for one year (12 issues). For more information or a subscription,
>write: HortIdeas, 460 Black Lick Road, Gravel Switch, KY 40328, USA. 
>
>
>*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*
>
>Bob Batson
>bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org
> 

Hmmm wonder if it would be worthwhile to switch from pine to 
paulownia plantations--help balance trade w/Japan by supplying
wood to make geta (what else is it used for?) and take some
pressure off the more slow-growing tropical hardwoods.   

Karen
From: mrh@centerline.com (Mike Huben)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: fungus gnats
Date: 16 Nov 1992 20:22:05 GMT
Organization: CenterLine Software, Inc.
NNTP-Posting-Host: 140.239.2.36

A couple of years ago, I had a sever fungus gnat problem in my seedlings.
When I hit the library, the older books all advocated dilute Chlorox
solutions for control.  But I can't find a reference to this in any of the
newer books I've looked in.

Was the old Chlorox treatment ineffective?  Or is it that it doesn't pay
anyone to market a homebrew "chemical" cure that isn't an expensive product?

Mike Huben
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: safi@ellis.uchicago.edu (pedro natalio safier)
Subject: Freesias in the Bay Area: Thank you
Reply-To: safi@midway.uchicago.edu
Organization: University of Chicago Astronomy & Astrophysics
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 15:34:47 GMT



    Thanks a lot to all of you that answered my query on growing freesias 
in the Bay area. 
                                                      Pedro
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Pedro N. Safier                          |  e-mail: safi@ellis.uchicago.edu
Department of Astronomy and Astrophysics |          safier@oddjob.uchicago.edu
The University of Chicago                |  phone: (312) 702-8203
5640 S. Ellis Ave                        |    fax: (312) 702-8212
Chicago, IL 60637                        |
------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: sundare@watson.ibm.com (C. Sundaresan)
Subject: Almost no acorns this year
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 18:02:27 GMT
Distribution: usa
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center

Last year my 3 huge oak trees shed so many acorns in the fall, that
we were rolling down the driveway and covering our heads outside.
Falling from 100 - foot plus heights, they made dents in the cars
and quite a racket for weeks.
This year almost none!  It was a damp cool summer. Gypsy moths were
less of a problem than usual and the trees seem healthy.  I'm wondering
what factors determine acorn formation in a given year.
Chris Sundaresan 
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: mccabe@gdls.CSCTMD.COM (Harold McCabe)
Subject: Black Walnuts On Lawn
Keywords: walnuts, lawn, kill grass
Organization: Computer Sciences Corp. @ General Dynamics
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 20:03:35 GMT

I have a black walnut tree in my yard and this fall it dropped a lot
of walnuts onto my lawn.  I picked them up and carted them off since
they were messy, kids would step on them and track them all over, etc.

Questions:

   1. Will the the nuts fall every year, or will this happen every other
      year, or some other frequency?  This is my first year in the house.

   2. If the nuts are left on the grass, will they kill the grass or
      cause something else bad to happen?

   3. Taking off the hulls, drying the nuts out, cracking the nuts is a
      lot of work.  Is there any other use for the nuts besides squirrel
      fodder?

Thanks,

Harold McCabe
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu (John Snyder)
Subject: Re: fungus gnats
Organization: Physics Department, Carnegie Mellon University
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 07:02:45 GMT

In article <1992Nov14.142709.10558@ptdcs2.intel.com> mcacc@ptdcs2.intel.com (Mark Cacciacarro ~) writes:
>In article <1992Nov13.135723.117@janus.arc.ab.ca> thacker@RHEA.ARC.AB.CA writes:
>>Sorry, let me try that again.
>>
>>
>>I did once try a chemical control on gnats.  I had just repotted

[...some stuff about fungus gnats deleted...]

>	While I have your attention, I was infested with these little
>unassuming brown moths in my garage, I put out the bug zapper to try to
>catch them, but they where not attracted to it. I didn't think to much
>about it until these small white catapillar or larva started to appear. They
>have infested my chicken feed. The scrath is their favorite. I go into the
>garage every night and turn on the light and catch anywhere from 20 to 40
>crawling on the trash cans used for feed storage. The scratch can does not
>seal, the Egg Maker can seals so it isn't to bad. Are these grain moths?
>Any one got a guesse? I was reluctant to put BT on the chicken food.
>Any suggestions?
>
>			Mark Cacc.


I'm no insect expert, but they sound like grain moths to me.  I used to get
them in flours and grain products that I kept in my kitchen back when I
kept stuff bought in bulk in plastic bags or paper bags, or in the cardbourd 
boxes if it was commercial stuff.  Well, I learned my lesson after having
to throw out lots of stuff now and then.  Now I keep everything in glass
jars with lids (or in a pinch, re-used plastic containers with tight-fitting 
lids) and I can't remember when I last saw a grain moth.  Besides, Ball
Mason jars make very nice decorative/functional canisters to line up along
the counter top, filled with flours and grains.

But enough stories...Could you keep the grain in some sort of containers
with tight lids that the moths could not get into?  That might also
be an effective way of controlling them.

John
snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu
From: rhaar@albert.cs.gmr.com (Bob Haar)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Ajuga
Date: 19 Nov 92 20:32:51 GMT
Reply-To: rhaar@albert.cs.gmr.com
Organization: G.M. Research and Environmental Staff

In article 1egojqINN231@uwm.edu, kl@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Kevin Lyman) writes:
|>From article <27687@oasys.dt.navy.mil>, by mulvihil@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Lawrence Mulvihill):
|>> Will bulbs (crocus, daffs, tulips) have any trouble
|>> forcing their way through dense ajuga?  
|>
|>My crocus comes through without any problems.  It's the squirrels that wreak
|>havoc!

Ditto for tulips.



---
	Robert Haar               InterNet : rhaar@gmr.com 
	Computer Science Dept., G.M. Research and Environmental Staff
DISCLAIMER: Unless indicated otherwise, everything in this note is
personal opinion, not an official statement of General Motors Corp.


Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: M.Steven@uws.edu.au (Mike Steven)
Subject: Xeriscape Info Required
Organization: University of Western Sydney, Hawkesbury
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 04:45:34 GMT

I am interested in getting in touch with persons involved in the Xeriscape
movement in the USA, and in particular learning a little of how Xeriscape
principles are influencing urban landscape design. I have an address for the
National Xeriscape Council (PO Box 767936 Roswell Georgia 30076-7936) but
despite two letters to them soliciting information I have had no
reply. Does anyone know if I have their correct address?

Among the various aspects of Xeriscape which interest me is
the matter of lawn/turf substitutes for arid areas. I remember some references
in this group a while back to corporations (Hewlett Packard?) that had redesigned
existing extensive areas of turf around their corporate premises to reduce
water usage. Can anyone supply me with details/case studies/references that
discuss lawn subsitutes and landscape management in arid areas? I am
particularly interested in how residents of arid regions are coming to terms
with this issue in the domestic garden, but also in industrial and
commercial landscapes.

Are there any landscape architects/designers out there involved in
research/practice in arid zone landscaping? I shall be very pleased to get in
touch with you.  

Post or e-mail responses appreciatedall information acknowledged

Mike
From: karenp@sybase.com (Karen Paulsell)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Pepper Plants
Date: 15 Nov 92 15:17:20 GMT
Organization: Sybase, Inc.

I've seen green bell pepper plants last pretty late in the year,
but not through the winter.

My neighbor's hot pepper plants are from last year, made it through
last winter, they are really big and bushy and loaded with peppers now.
If I recall correctly, though, their pepper plants did die in the big
freeze of '90.

So, yes, some pepper plants will make it through "normal" Bay Area
winters.  I live near the Oakland/Berkeley/Emeryville border, about 1
mile from the Bay, so definitely get that warming ocean-influence.
From: GC.SUL@forsythe.stanford.edu (Sullivan)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: alternative to Christmas trees
Date: 19 Nov 1992 12:54:40 -0800
Organization: Stanford University
NNTP-Posting-Host: morrow.stanford.edu

A perfect example of the destruction that can be cause by a Tree
Farm...There used to be a beautiful area between Sand HIll Rd and
the Stanford Linear Accelerator near Stanford University, CA.
Rolling hills covered with grass, and huge old oaks.  Stanford
leases a lot of its land since it is prohibited by original covenant
to sell off any land.  So much of Stanford land is either leased for
Industrial Parks, Shopping Center, overgrazed by horses or cattle,
and more recently, leased for a tree farm.

I used to cringe every day I drove by and saw row upon row of
Christmas tree marching up and down these once open hills.  They
have planted some of the trees right up under the oaks, and guess
what, after some years of this the oaks are dying.  Makes me sick.
Just seems to be a total exploitation of the land for money. Yes I
guess someday the area "might" be restored, but those Oaks were
probably hundreds of years old.

Karen