From: flb@lune.berkeley.edu (Frederick Lee Burghardt)
Subject: Re: Backpacking in Hawaii (Islands)
Reply-To: flb@lune.berkeley.edu (Frederick Lee Burghardt)
Organization: International Computer Science Institute, Berkeley
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 23:13:42 GMT

In article 178sqcINN8uh@agate.berkeley.edu,
paulw@ieor-next1.Berkeley.EDU (Paul Worhach) writes:
>I'm starting to plan a backcountry trip for sometime in November somewhere
>in the Hawaiian islands.  I'm thinking of the Na Pali Coast on Kauii, and
>I have several questions:
>
>- how does one get to the trailhead at Na Pali?  I'd like to avoid the
>coast of a rented car, and I've heard that its hard to even rent if the
>company knows your going into the backcountry.
>
>- what is the weather like during this off season?  I know that Kauii is one
>of the rainier islands.
>
>- any other sugesstions for a 7-10 day trip, preferably along a coast, as
>opposed to into the mountains such as at Volcanos N.P.
>
>Thanks!
>paul

I made the trip to Kalalau on the Na Pali coast in February this year, and I
second Bill Gascoynes opinion that it's a wonderful place.  I think November
is off-season so  the  Zodiacs should not be operating from Hanalei.  This
means that you have to walk 13 miles from the roadend to Kalalau, but it also
means that there will not be a ton of people on the beach.  When I was there
the population topped out at somewhere around 12 backpackers and half a
dozen semi-permanent-illegal residents.  When I left there were only about
four backpackers, probably because  of some heavy rain at Hanakoa and 
Hanakapiai (sp?).  As far as rain is concerned, my stay there was a good test
for tent waterproofness.  It rained 36 hour straight during one stretch, but 
the rest of my five day stay was nice - a little rain, a million rainbows, a 
little sun, a little rain...  The place is truly a rainbow factory.  Bill is 
correct to say that the area north of Kalalau is wetter.  The problem is that 
the trail can be VERY treacherous when wet - it takes on a snot-like 
consistency (clay) that is incredibly slippery.  When you've seen how
the trail 
traverses the high, very  steep cliffs you'll know what I mean.  One nice 
thing thing about the rain is that it's very warm - you can stand in it
and not 
be uncomfortable temperature-wise.   So, you're not completely trapped in 
your tent.  However, I think most people get tired of being wet for more than 
several hours at a time, and since it takes a couple of rainless days to dry 
stuff out because of the humidity, a constant rain will get all your clothes 
and the inside of your tent (where you try to dry them off) wet eventually.  
Rain suits help, but nothing withstands a Hawaiian rain indefinitely.

You don't have to go to Kalalau to enjoy the Na Pali coast - there are two 
intermediate camping areas on the trail at Hanakapiai (about 2 miles from 
the trailhead) and Hanakoa (I think 6 miles from Hanakapiai), but they are
under jungle-like trees so there's no real view.  Hanakoa makes a decent 
stopover if you're bound for Kalalau since it's about half way, and there's a 
great swimming hole at the base of a waterfall about half a mile upstream
from the camping area.  But watch out for falling rocks!  With the loose rock 
and tourist helicopters flying up to the falls all the time you stand a chance 
of getting conked on the head.   Almost happened to me (but I want back 
anyway since it's such a nice spot).

But, really, if you're going to take the time to go all the way to Kauai you 
might  as well go all the way to Kalalau - it's the closest to tropical 
paradise  I've ever seen.  I'd recommend taking two days stopping at Hanakoa 
on the way - that way you have time to enjoy the walk, and although 13 miles 
may seem reasonable for a day the trail is not easy walking,  I came out in a 
day, but I was light.

The trailhead is easy to find - it's right at the end of the road that goes 
through Hanalei.  There is really no way to get to the trailhead (that I know 
of) other than renting a car, cabs, or hitchhiking.  If you fly into 
Princeville a cab may be reasonable, but forget it from Lihue - you might as 
well rent.  I hitchhiked everywhere since my main purpose was to backpack 
and I thought it would be stupid to rent a car for myself just to drive it for 
an hour and then park it for a week.  I found  hitchhiking to be pretty easy 
and fairly reliable - no trouble from the locals  (I actually never had 
trouble from the locals in the five weeks I was in the  islands, although I'd 
been warned).  Only caveat on hitching:  I'm a full-sized male and was 
on my own, so that may have been an advantage  with respect to safety and 
getting rides.  Small solo women and large groups need not apply.

OK, other Hawaiian coastal hikes.  On the big island (Hawaii) there is a place
called Waipio on the north coast (go north from Hilo along the coast).  It's a 
gorgeous deep valley cut into the sheer coastal cliffs with a black sand beach
bisected by a river, twin waterfalls, wild oranges, mangoes, papayas, 
macadamias, horses pretty much everywhere.  Sort of a Garden of Eden.  
Waipio is not strictly a camping area - it's accessible by an incredibly steep 
road (4-wheel drive only), and has permanent residents with real houses.  
BUT, if you hike another nine (I think) miles there is another valley similar 
to Waipio called Waimanu that is not populated and can be accessed only by 
foot  (or, presumably, helicopter -the state bird).  I have not been to
Waimanu 
but plan to go someday.  If you go to Waipio and stay a night there, and you 
don't  feel like camping, go see Sam Araki at his hotel  (euphemistically 
speaking to use the word hotel).  Almost like camping, but with some 
interesting twists (it's clean).

Lee Burghardt

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