HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: william@castle.ed.ac.uk (William Warburton)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Nikon N90 technobabble
Date: 4 Sep 92 16:23:28 GMT
Reply-To: W.Warburton@ed.ac.uk
Organization: Edinburgh University Computing Service

In article <1992Sep4.142654.28132@research.nj.nec.com>, markl@research.nj.nec.com (Mark Lee) writes:

|> So is it just me, or do other feel that the zillion-plus-one whiz-bang
|> high tech features being packed into cameras like the Nikon N90 or the
|> Minolta xi series to be more distracting and intimidating than useful?

 I'm with you but I don't normally like to say so because I've not
used an AF camera, makes my perspective a little narrow!

 I'd like:

       "Spot" metering
	TTL Flash
	DOF preview
	Viewfinder display of aperture & shutter speed in metered
		manual mode.
	Some sort of automatic exposure mode, preferably "program"?
	Other neat features (AF? Selftimer, Flash-ready, Autowind?)

 But these only seem to be available in "professional" cameras at
several hundred pounds apiece.

 I tried a Ricoh XRX & didn't like it much, felt plasticky. I'm hoping
to try an Olympus OM2SP sometime.

 Any other suggestions? I don't want to spend so much on the camera
that I can't afford any decent lenses!

 Thanks,
	W.

PS Anyone know anything about the Tamron SP24-48 f/3.5-3.8? Is it a
   "good" lens or do they sell because of the adaptall system?
  
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: leonglaw@hpsgm2.sgp.hp.com (Lawrence LEONG)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Why do photofinishers crop so much?
Date: 1 Sep 92 09:28:13 GMT
Organization: HP Singapore

In rec.photo, fsjfz@acad3.alaska.edu writes:

|>>a reason for this? The aspect ratio is exactly the same,
|>>by the way, I'm shooting 35 mm. (24x36 mm. image size)
|>>and printing on 4x6 in., so that's no excuse. Is this 
|>>standard practice? If so, why? I'm not talking about...
|
|>>Any comments or recommendations (besides do it myself, I've 
|>>already concluded that this might solve several problems but
|>>it's not going to happen THIS year anyway...)?
|> 
|> 	Actually, the aspect ratio of the image on negatives (35mm)
|> 	is not the same as normal prints.  If look at the negatives,
|> 	the images are sort of longish rectangles, longer than the
|> 	prints made.
|
|The 4x6 `super' prints are of the same aspect ratio (1:1.5) as the negative. 
|That's why they are sold as `full frame' prints. (At least they are here).
|
|As to why YOUR prints are being cropped, i couldn't say.  i don't usually shoot
|print film, but when i do, i take it to a local lab that i think won't scratch
|the negatives.  The prints i use a proofs more than anything (or to mail to
|mom.)  Every time i've gotten the full frame prints, they have indeed been full
|frame prints.  
|
|i'll bet what happened is that your lab accidentally left a black or white
|border around some prints, someone complained, and the manager resolved that
|he'd never have THAT happen again.  And reset his machine to crop
|the edges just to be sure.  Have you complained to your lab that you're not
|getting what you should be?  At least get an explanation from them.

I explained it to them, they agreed that it should be full frame, but stll my
pictures got cropped.  Well, Kodak shut down their photofinishing business
here, so I never did get an explanation 0.5 :-).  Just as well, they used to
scratch my film anyway.

lawrence
From: clev@cisco.com (Robert Clevenger)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: 1 day photo trips from San Jose, CA
Date: 3 Sep 92 21:57:21 GMT
Organization: Cisco Systems

In article <1992Sep2.232703.19032@clark.edu> gsnow@clark.edu (Gary Snow) writes:

   The second idea is Yosemite.  Of course, this entails a 4 hour predawn
   drive.  I must return to San Jose Sat night.  Is this enough time, or should
   I save Yosemite for sometime when I have a whole weekend or more?  Also,
   does the crowd situation permit serious photo taking.  (I don't mind hiking,
   but time is an issue.)  It is probably not worth 8 hours of driving just to
   say I have seen it and to take a few casual snapshots.


Do yourself a BIG favor and visit Yosemite when you have more time.
If you are like most people, you would be very sad to leave after
spending only one day.  Visit when you can spend 3-4 days (there is
that much to see, several water falls, mirror lake, groves of
redwoods, meadows, etc.) and plan your sunsets (and sunrises, if you
are an early riser).  Spend at least one sunset on Centinel Dome (near
Glacier Point, ~1.5mi hike).  The best time of the year for Yosemite
(IMO) is the spring when the falls are at their peak and the wild
flowers are in bloom.  Plan on hiking and take all of your lenses,
wide angle to telephoto.

   Any comments or other suggestions would be quite welcome.  I realize SF
   itself is an excellent photographic location, but I am really
   interested more in nature photos.

I would suggest the Monterey/Big Sur area (including Point Lobos),
miles of wonderful ocean shoreline with plenty of ocean wildlife
including sea lions, otters, many birds, and at the right times of the
year, whales.  This is only about a 1 1/2 hr. drive from SJ.  Again,
take all of your lenses.

;                       ..         ..              
; Rob Clevenger         ||         ||
; clev@cisco.com        ||         ||
; 415.688.4447         ||||       ||||
;                  ..:||||||:...:||||||:..
;                             cisco Systems
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: konkkola@jyu.fi (Markku Konkkola)
Subject: Canon Macro Lens Mount Converter FD-EOS
Reply-To: konkkola@jyu.fi
Organization: University of Jyvskyl, Finland
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 06:28:14 GMT

Hi!

Is there anybody, who has some experience with this converter?

What is focusing range with FD 200 Macro, FD 50 Macro and TS 35?
(It's extension id 134.93 mm)

How does this stopped-down metering work? (I have EOS 1 and 10)
I have heard, that it can't be used with EOS 10, but I don't believe it. 


Make

---
Markku K|nkk|l{   Computing Centre of Jyv{skyl{ University   Jyv{skyl{, Finland
Markku Knkkl   Computing Centre of Jyvskyl University   Jyvskyl, Finland

E-mail: konkkola@jyu.fi        phone: +358-41-603594        fax: +358-41-603611
===============================================================================

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: amg8408@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Avijit  Moitra)
Subject: Looking for a Minolta 4000AF Flash (Anyone Selling one !!)
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 21:45:19 GMT

I am looking for a Minolta 4000AF flash.  Anyone willing to sell
one, please send me an e-mail with the price and date of purchase.

Thanks in advance.
From: edmtl@alf.uib.no (Thor Legvold)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: fujichrome/ektachrome opinion needed
Date: 1 Sep 92 14:07:07 GMT
Organization: University of Bergen, Norway

In article <1992Aug28.192005.18323@berlioz.nsc.com> elau@berlioz.nsc.com (Eugene Lau) writes:
>
>I'm trying to decide whether I should use fujichrome 100 (RD) or ektachrome
>100 HC (EC ?) as my all purpose film.  cost is an issue so I didn't consider
>pro films.  print films are too expensive to use in high volume, so they're 
>out too.  I shoot landscapes and portraits.  

Me too ;-)   (shoot mostly landscapes and portraits)

>
>I heard that ektachrome was better for skin tones, but I also heard that
>fujichrome was better overall (why?).  then someone on the net said fujichrome
>comes out a tad bit dark, and ektachrome is fine in this regard.  I've been
>using fujichrome 100 and am now back at square one in deciding what film to
>use.
>

I think that there is a difference in contrast and colour rendition.  I use
Velvia almost exclusively, but have yet to see a good skin rendition with
it.  And for portraits one usually makes prints, no...?  So I use Reala
for portraits.  Agfa has come out with a new series that's supposed to be
pretty good (print film), but I haven't tried it.
I have compared Ectachrome with Velvia - Sometimes I want a subdued natural
effect - I use ectachrome, which is very subtle (IMHO).  Velvia is a bit
heavy on the mangenta, so if you're not carefull your blue flowers will
come out purple...!  Some feel that Velvia is really ASA 40, although I 
like the extra contrast that exposing at ASA 50 gives, and it's better for
reproductions later.
I have tried a few rolls of fujichrome, but didn't think it was worth the
price difference compared to Velvia (I shoot 6x6 roll film), which I get
pretty cheap.

>I appreciate any response.
>eugene
>

regards,
Thor
From: jay@metran.UUCP (Jay Ts)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Vitamin C Developer
Date: 4 Sep 92 14:45:34 GMT
Organization: Metran Technology, Tampa, Florida


While researching developer formulations in the local university library,
I found a reference to ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) as a developing agent.

I got a bottle of ascorbic acid crystals from a natural food store, and
tried it, and it seems to work (it turns film black in room light) as long
as there is some sodium carbonate added to increase the pH sufficiently.

I would like to learn more about using ascorbic acid in developer formulations.
How does it compare in activity and effect on tonality to metol, hydroquinone,
phenidone and amidol?  Got any vitamin C developer formulas and/or related
info you'd like to share?

Jay Ts
uunet!myrddin!tscs!metran!jay
From: leonglaw@hpsgm2.sgp.hp.com (Lawrence Leong)
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1992 03:12:22 GMT
Subject: Re: Why do photofinishers crop so much?
Organization: HP Singapore
Newsgroups: rec.photo

In rec.photo, bclee@ocf.berkeley.edu (Bob C. Lee) writes:

|In article <78205@ut-emx.uucp> psilsbee@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Peter Silsbee) writes:
|>Hi,
|>  it seems that all the places I get my color negatives
|>printed chop off large portions of the picture during
|>the printing process. I've taken them to three different
|>local shops recently and they're all the same. Is there
|>a reason for this? The aspect ratio is exactly the same,
|>by the way, I'm shooting 35 mm. (24x36 mm. image size)
|>and printing on 4x6 in., so that's no excuse. Is this 
|>standard practice? If so, why? I'm not talking about
|>a little margin-of-error, here, but fully 2.5-3 mm. of image
|>gone... this is about 15% of the image area! I'm tired of
|>heads, hats, tops of mountains, etc. missing and I'd rather not
|>have to leave a zone of extraneous material all the way around.
|>Any comments or recommendations (besides do it myself, I've 
|>already concluded that this might solve several problems but
|>it's not going to happen THIS year anyway...)?
|>
|>Thanks, Peter
|>
|
|
|	Actually, the aspect ratio of the image on negatives (35mm)
|	is not the same as normal prints.  If look at the negatives,
|	the images are sort of longish rectangles, longer than the
|	prints made.
|
|	I really have no idea why prints are not made according to the
|	dimensions of the negative.  Maybe there is an industrial
|	standard???  If the cropping is a standard practice, I suggest
|	that the camera manufacturers mark the "effective" image are
|	in the finder.

I've come across this before.  When I pointed this out, the photofinisher 
(Kodak) suggested 4"x6" prints (more expensive, naturally).  They still
cropped the prints.  

Good luck
lawrence

|
|	Oh, btw, if the cropping really annoys you, try to leave
|	room on both sides of the pictures when you take them.
|
|
|	G'day,
|
|	...B.o.b...
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: tjwu@athena.mit.edu (Thomas J Wu)
Subject: Re: What lens to get for EOS Elan?
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 05:32:48 GMT

  After receiving lots of useful feedback from my post, I've finally
decided to get the Canon 35-105mm f/4.5 USM lens with the Elan
(Canon sells them together in a package).  Thanks to all who responded!

  Thomas Wu
  Internet:  tjwu@athena.mit.edu
Xref: sparky rec.photo:15096 gnu.misc.discuss:2799 misc.int-property:892
From: ajayshah@almaak.usc.edu (Ajay Shah)
Newsgroups: rec.photo,gnu.misc.discuss,misc.int-property
Subject: rms on boycotting Photo CD
Date: 29 Aug 1992 00:01:57 -0700
Organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA
NNTP-Posting-Host: almaak.usc.edu

I got this email from him:

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 92 02:19:43 -0400
From: rms@gnu.ai.mit.edu (Richard Stallman)
To: ajayshah@usc.edu
Subject: Photo CD

It will be a challenge to defeat the Kodak Photo CD format if it gets
commercial adherents.  But one thing that would help would be to
develop now an alternate image format for the same hardware.

Another idea: take photos of simple images (color bars; black square
within a white field) and have them converted to Photo CD format; then
figure out the format by looking at what gets put on the disk.

(end of message)
-- 
Ajay Shah, (213)749-8133, ajayshah@usc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: hamm@weejordy.physics.mun.ca (Craig Hamm)
Subject: Re: Recommend slide labelling program?
Organization: Ocean Sciences Centre
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 15:00:28 GMT

In article <1992Sep3.123429.15318@ctr.columbia.edu>, 
Robert Koch <Bob Koch@SAIC.Dayton.ccmail> writes:
|> 

	
	I could recommend something else first Bob!


-- 
  
    Craig Hamm, Memorial University, | I don't think the letters which appear
    Newfoundland                     | on your letters page are genuine. I 
    DoD #1500,                       | think you just make them all up.  In
    81 Maxim 650                     | fact you probably made this one up
    ------------                     | too.  -J. Clark, Rotherham (Viz comics)
From: siegela@deshaw.com (Andrew Siegel)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Need film recommendation for baby's birth
Date: 28 Aug 92 14:52:24 GMT
Organization: D. E. Shaw & Co.
Originator: siegela@sun38

My wife will be giving birth to our first child in November, and of
course I will be there taking pictures (and perhaps assisting my wife
as well :-).

I'm trying to decide what kind of film to use to record this occasion.
I'll want prints, so it's going to be print film.  The lighting in the
room will be bright fluorescent ambient light and (probably) halogen
examination lights.  I'm pretty sure that there are no tungsten lights
in the room.  I won't be using flash.

My priorities in picking the film are sufficient speed, lack of
graininess, and correct color balance, in that order.  I was thinking
perhaps of a Kodacolor 400 film, but I'm concerned that it won't be
fast enough.  I'm also slightly concerned that the color balance will
be off if I use daylight film.

Can anyone recommend appropriate film and filters?  Thanks.

-- 
Andrew Siegel			D. E. Shaw & Co., New York, NY
abs@deshaw.com			(212)478-0231
From: jay@metran.UUCP (Jay Ts)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Nikkor AIS Recommendation (Was: NIKON AF Wide Angle Recommendation)
Date: 3 Sep 92 10:56:50 GMT
Organization: Metran Technology, Tampa, Florida

hlam@umiami.ir.miami.edu writes:
: Can any one give me advise and/or recommendation on any of the following
: Nikon AF wide angle lenses:
: 
:       16 mm, 20 mm, 24 mm
: 
: I currently own a 28 mm and would like to purchase one of the above.  The 28 mm
: has been satisfactory but I would like to cover a wider range without having a
: fish eye effect.

At the moment, the purchase decision for this looks like a long way off for
me (these lenses are expensive, and based on my experience with my 28mm
Tamron, I will not settle for anything less than a Nikkor).  I would not
even bother to ask about it, except that I seem to be in almost, but not
quite, the same situation.

As I stated, I also own a 28mm (Tamron).  This focal length is just right
for me; I'm happy to not have a 35 or a 24.  However, I feel a definite need
for something much wider, in fact, as wide as possible.  But, it is very
important that the lens be rectilinear and generally free of distortion.
Do the shorter f.l. "ultra-wide angle" Nikkors, especially 16mm, suffer
significantly from distortion?  That is my main concern.

Jay Ts
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: troby@diana.cair.du.edu (Thorn Roby)
Subject: Info on Schneider Symmar Convertible (150/265) ?
Organization: University of Denver, Denver, Colorado
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 92 16:20:35 GMT

Has anyone used one of these? I'm told its coated, about 8 years old.
Is it likely to be as sharp at the shorter focal length as a current
lens like the Nikkor-W? How much worse at the longer length? Does the
fact that the elements can be swapped mean they're likely to be slightly
out of adjustment, or am I overestimating the need for perfect alignment?
-- 

Thorn Roby                              troby@diana.cair.du.edu
CARL Systems, Inc.                               troby@carl.org   
3801 E. Florida Ave.,Suite D300,Denver, CO 80210 (303) 758-3030
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au (Paul Repacholi)
Subject: Re: Nodal point on lens.
Organization: Curtin University of Technology
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 14:46:53 GMT

In article <4860@daily-planet.concordia.ca>, honna@cs.concordia.ca (SEGEL honna) writes:


About nodal slides...

How critical is the parrelism of the mirror and screen?

~Paul

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: robinson@odie.ee.wits.ac.za (Michael Robinson)
Subject: FAQ and Pentax FAQ
Organization: Wits Electrical Engineering (Novell Users).
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 08:01:54 GMT

Could somebody please post me a photo FAQ. (or give me an address etc)
Is there a Pentax FAQ?

Thank you
Michael
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: braun@dri.com (Kral)
Subject: Minolta diff 5000,5000i,5xi (et al)
Organization: Novell/DSG
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 92 14:36:26 GMT

This is probably a FAQ, but I've been looking for a week or so, and I'm looking
to buy RSN, so I'll put this out anyway and deal with the flames as they
come...

Can someone explain the significant differences between the Minolta *000,
*000i, and *xi camaras and associated lenses? 

Background:  I know a little about basic photography, and am looking to get
into casual hobbiest type photography (read: more than tourist and family
photos, but less than a professional) - mainly nature and landscapes (but have
to have quick point and shoot for the new baby!).

Reply or Followup as appropriate.


-- 
kral   408/647-6112                                                braun@dri.com
Network Scapegoat in Training                                      NOVELL/DSG
That's the whole problem with science.  You've got a bunch of empiricists 
trying to describe things of unimaginable wonder." - Calvin
From: yi@tdd.sj.nec.com (Yi Zhang  x2912)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: A FAQ
Date: 31 Aug 92 17:57:01 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: NEC-AM TDD, San Jose, California

This is probably a FAQ. 

For CANON-EOS, the auto focus motor is in the lens, 
while for NIKON the motor is in the camera body. 

What are the advantages/disadvantages for these two different systems ? 
 
Y.Z.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: wjh@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (william.j.hery)
Subject: Nikon 35-105 AF lens
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 02:10:25 GMT

About a month ago someone was asking for impressions of the Nikkor 35-105
zoom. Since I hadn't used mine much yet, I didn't comment, but after 2
vacations (San Francisco and Norway) and ~15 rolls of film, I do have a few.

First, the main reason I got the lens was for a light weight, general
purpose "sightseers" lens that I could comfortably carry all day on
a camera while walking around a city. I compared it against the 35-135,
and decided for that purpose the extra size/weight was too much for the 
extra focal length. After a few weeks of carrying it around (and only
bringing other lenses when I had specific expectations), I think that
the range, weight and size are a good compromise for my purposes.

I do have one complaint about the lens, however: unlike my 80-200
Nikkor, when I change the focal length I have to refocus. With
separate focus and zoom collars, this is pretty inconvenient. Also,
a lot of pictures are scenics where focus is at infinity, and on all
my other lenses I can just turn the fucusing collar completely clockwise
and be locked in at infinity very quickly; that doesn't work with the
35-105 AF. I am using the lens on a non-AF camera (FE2), and I realize
that if I had (and used) AF I wouldn't have this complaint (but I might
have other complaints when I took pictures of whales :-).

Does anyone know if the older AIS 35-105 works the same way? If it
works like th 80-200, I might consider taking a loss and trading the
lens for a used AIS version.


Bill Hery
AT&T Bell Labs
201-386-2362
hery@att.COM
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: Glen Matthews <CCGM@MUSICM.MCGILL.CA>
Subject: RE: Expansion cards for Minolta 7xi camera
Organization: McGill University Systems Inc (MUSIC/SP)
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 14:41:46 GMT

In article <1992Aug25.164408.4634@unlinfo.unl.edu> sanjiv@cse.unl.edu (Sanjiv K. Bhatia) writes:
>I have recently bought a Minolta Maxxum 7xi camera and have been thinking of
>buying some expansion cards.  In particular, I have been looking at the cards
>for travel, portrait, and fantasy effects.  Could some knowledgeable readers
>provide me with pros and cons for these cards?  I have taken a few portraits
>using the 80-200 mm zoom and in aperture priority mode with 5.6 aperture.
>These have come out excellent and that makes me wonder if the portrait card is
>going to give me something extra.

   Being an ex-owner of a 7000i, I had to make my own decisions
concerning those cards. I have the fantasy card - not much used. It
uses the lens motor to throw the lens slightly out of focus for part
of the exposure - a hard to replicate effect, but also one that I
rarely used.
   As far as the others go, I decided against them. My basic guidelines
in purchasing cards were to obtain cards that (a) useful to me and (b)
would extend the camera features - NOT just a black-box "this card does
X" approach. As examples, I wound up with the Data card, the Multiple
Spot card, the exposure bracketing card, and the Highlight/Shadow card.
All of these enhanced the camera in various ways and weren't for a
particular "type" of shot.

Glen Matthews
MUSIC Product Group, McGill University
550 Sherbrooke St. West, Montreal, Quebec, Canada H3A 3C5
Phone: (514) 398-4477 Fax: (514) 398-4488 BitNet: CCGM@MCGILLM
Internet: ccgm@musicm.mcgill.ca   Anonymous FTP: vm.mpg.mcgill.ca
From: robert@sys.sweden.dg.com (Robert Claeson)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: fujichrome/ektachrome opinion needed
Date: 31 Aug 92 07:34:53 GMT
Organization: Data General AB, Akalla, Sweden

In article <1992Aug28.192005.18323@berlioz.nsc.com>, elau@berlioz.nsc.com (Eugene Lau) writes:

> I'm trying to decide whether I should use fujichrome 100 (RD) or ektachrome
> 100 HC (EC ?) as my all purpose film.  cost is an issue so I didn't consider
> pro films.  print films are too expensive to use in high volume, so they're 
> out too.  I shoot landscapes and portraits.  
> 
> I heard that ektachrome was better for skin tones, but I also heard that
> fujichrome was better overall (why?).  then someone on the net said fujichrome
> comes out a tad bit dark, and ektachrome is fine in this regard.  I've been
> using fujichrome 100 and am now back at square one in deciding what film to
> use.

Fujichrome Velvia comes out a tad dark, the other Fujichrome's doesn't.
Fujichrome 50 and 100 are the same emulsions as Fujichrome 50 and 100 Prof.
The base material is different, though.

Choosing between Ektachrome 100 HC and Fujichrome 100, I'd definitely choose
Fujichrome. The Ektachrome HC films aren't very inspiring. Choosing between
Ektachrome 100 Plus and Fujichrome 100, the choice becomes harder, but the
Ektachrome 100 Plus film is a professional film so you may not want that.

-- 
------------------------------ END OF MESSAGE ------------------------------
Robert Claeson                Internet: robert@sys.sweden.dg.com
Data General AB                         robert@sys.dg.se
Box 28                             CEO: robert@sys.sweden.dg.com:dg-smtp
S-164 93 KISTA                     Tel: +46 (0)8-92 55 00
Sweden                             Fax: +46 (0)8-751 36 22
Xref: sparky rec.photo:14944 alt.cd-rom:2789 gnu.misc.discuss:2771 misc.int-property:869