HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: wizard@granite.WPI.EDU (Ajay Khanna)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Car problem...
Date: 5 Jan 1993 16:04:27 GMT
Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute
NNTP-Posting-Host: granite.wpi.edu

Hi!

	I have an '83 Nissan Sentra (manual).  I started taking it to
this oil change place called the "Grease Monkey" (now "Oil Doctor")
about a year ago.  In that time I've taken it in for two tune-ups.
Both times I went in with a car that was running pretty well, and left
with a car that, two days after the tune-up, stalls all over the town.
I don't know if it's something the Grease Monkey did, but it seems a strange
coincidence.  Does anyone know what could be causing these symptoms?

Car has two "modes": runs like a charm, or runs rough and will stall
unless given exorbitant amounts of gas.  When you start the car it can
enter either of these modes.  If it starts out running nicely, it
keeps running nicely until you stop at a light, stop sign, or toll
booth, and then there's a chance that it might start to run rough.
Once it starts to run rough, it will never run nicely again until you
turn the engine off and restart it.  Sometimes it takes several tries
for it to run well again.

The fuel filter, ignition wires, distributor cap, and rotor have all
been changed in the past 6 months.  The car has 134k on it.  I've
tried drygas in the gas, Gumout in the carb, and nothing seems to fix
the problem.  I keep getting different stories from different
mechanics, all of whom want lots of money and want to keep the car for
a couple days.  One said that the tips on two of my spark plugs were
loose, and that could be a problem.  Can anyone sort through all this
subtrefuge to figure out what might be the real problem?  The car is
only worth 500-1000 dollars at this point, so I don't want to spend
enormous amounts of money on a mechanic.

Thanks for any responses,
kris (borrowing wizard's account)

Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: R1004@vmcms.csuohio.edu
Subject: Re: Taurus #1 in US
Organization: CSU
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 18:08:05 GMT

In article <1ih991INNhf@cronkite.Central.Sun.COM>
dbernard@clesun.Central.Sun.COM (Dave Bernard) writes:
 
 
>According to last year's sales figures, Taurus edged out the Accord as
>the US's top-selling car model, and Ford wasted no time in giving itself
>bouquets.  Honda, which had enjoyed the spot for the last 3 or so years,
>sour-grapedly replied that Ford sells lots of Tauri to fleets, and Honda
>does not, thereby accounting for the higher figures.  On the other hand,
>could not Ford just say that in fact they had held the position all along,
>if you include Taurus clone Sable?  But probably not, brand twinning is
                                                       ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>a sacred cow.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
>	Dave
     Glad to see an American car back in the number one slot,  As for
brand twinning - Ford might like to, but then GM might combine Chevy
and GMC truck sales and Ford would no longer be #1 in trucks.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Martel               |
bob2@cua3.csuohio.edu    |  Lady luck must have been a wonderful girl
R1004@vmcms.csuohio.edu  |    -She's never been a friend of mine!
                         |                        Alan Parsons Project
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: mills@athena.lkg.dec.com (George Mills)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Accuracy of Those Car Price Books
Date: 5 Jan 93 01:26:47 GMT

I also use those books. But only use them as a guide. There are so many
little deals between the manufacturer and the dealer it's almost impossible
to keep accurate. Even if the dealer comes back with the "book" price I'd
be suspicious. Because if the dealer has some sort of unpublished break
on the car, they are only to happy to agree with your book.

Also some dealers want more than the $400.00 (or whatever your number is)
over invoice. Some people rant and rave if they don't get the number "they"
pick. That's there right. Just make what you feel is a reasonable offer
and if they say no go elsewhere. If they all say no, then you asking to low,
PERIOD. Doesn't matter what the book says. If they all say yes then you offered
too much. Get them all to squirm a bit and you know your close.
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen)
Subject: Re: Acura Integra Bodywork. Costs
Keywords: Hood, fender, scrathed paint, little kid, big rock, overpass
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 93 08:31:25 GMT

In article <uaso.726210121@mcl> uaso@mcl.ucsb.edu (nowhere man) writes:
>The other night, some little kid who had nothing better to do and dropped
>a 10 pound rock or something off an overpass and hit my hood as I was on
>the freeway. the rock hit my hood, dented it, scratched off a lot of paint
>then hit my fender. A local body shop wants to repaint my whole hood and 
>fender for about $545. Is this a good deal? If you have had any experiences
>or have any comments or help please post them! Thanks! Bye the way, it's a
>'91 GS.

how much just for the hood?
some little shit did the same thing to me tonight (what timing!).
bang in the middle of the hood where i can see it every time i drive.
it's a '90 integra so it sounds like the cost would be the same.
is it generally worthwhile to file a claim with the insurance company,
or are they likely to raise my rates?

-teddy
From: grego@bit.UUCP (Greg Sanguinetti)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Why is US engine technology so retrograde? and buying Japanese.
Date: 12 Jan 93 16:53:36 GMT
Article-I.D.: bit.554
Reply-To: grego@bit.UUCP (Grego Sanguinetti)
Organization: BIT  Portland, OR

In article <issa.726506944@cwis> issa@cwis.unomaha.edu (Issa El-Hazin) writes:
> ...
>Smaller don't always mean less. In some rich countries where there is no 
>tax on engine size [or anything else] and the gas is dirt cheap, many small 
>sporty engines are very popular.

There is of course always a place for simple big engines. I wish I had
one right now.

I am about to get rid of my 1984 Nissan 4x4 truck, with only 84K miles
because the engine is dead and the truck has become very unreliable. I
have followed all maintenance procedures carefully and have never killed
a truck before. The head gasket failed (slowly) causing major damage
to the head and block. The cylinders obviously were running hot because
they were very scored. The truck isn't worth an engine overhaul or
replacement so we just machined the head and did our best to clean up
the cylinder walls. It runs ok now but the extra compression is blowing
a bit of oil past the rings. The motor isn't going to last much longer.

I will never buy a toy truck again. The puny little motor (Naps Z 2.4L)
was a real stupid choice for a truck. It had the highest power rating
at the time (that was a factor for me when I baught it) but it just
isn't close to being enough. It completely lacks the low end grunt that
a real truck needs.

Plus the drive train is too flimsy, the frame is too cheap, the wheel
wells were designed for passenger car tires (@*#!&^!@#%!^%@$). They
designed in lots of nice little features but got all the major stuff
very wrong. The new ones aren't much better.

My wife had a 1984 Toyota Camary. Within the first 30K miles we had
to replace the transmittion, engine oil seals, ... Not what you would
consider a reliable car.

I also baught a new Honda motorcycle that was recalled four times in the
first year I owned it. They finally replaced the entire engine. I had
seal problems, the metal on the cams failed (!!), oil was seeping through
the engine castings!

We replaced the Camary with a new all wheel drive Chevy Astro and we love
it. I intend to replace the Nissan with a 3/4 tom Chevy with the 350 motor.
No more whimpy trucks, they just don't work for me. I'm back to v8's.

-grego
-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Grego Sanguinetti, Bipolar Integrated Technology | Water, water everywhere,
grego@bit.uucp or grego%bit%ogi.cse.edu          | but I'd rather drink
or bit!grego@ogi.cse.edu or ...!ogicse!bit!grego | beer.
From: sahul@loading-zone.Stanford.EDU (Zakir H. Sahul)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Before Buying Japanese.
Date: 6 Jan 93 02:04:26 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Stanford University

In article <1993Jan05.235041.26541@sco.com>, garyh@sco.COM (< Gary H >) writes:
|> 
|> Also, why not bash the Germans for their fine cars like the Mercedes, BMWs,
|> and VWs? Why not bash every CO that makes great cars and stand by shitty
|> for some unknown reason (pride?).  Hmmmm............. ( time to put on my
|> flame suit 8-)).
|> 
|> Gary
|> -- 

How about:

Economic reasons:

0) The number of cars that the Germans sell here is much smaller (than what the
   Japanese sell).

1) The German market is more open to US goods - they buy our computers, our
   software, some auto components etc. etc.  The Japanese market is not as
   open.

Other reasons:

2) The press has not reported German politicians calling Americans stupid 
   and lazy.

3) Racism.
From: br@cs.cmu.edu (Bill Ross)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Mini-van or utility vehicle...4WD vs gas mileage
Date: 5 Jan 93 13:37:18 GMT
Article-I.D.: cs.C0Dv67.Czr.2
Reply-To: br@cs.cmu.edu
Organization: CMU Vision and Autonomous Systems Center

In article <C0CHpz.GsJ@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu>, prange@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Henry Prange) writes:
> Unless you have a huge bladder and so have no need to stop for hundreds of
> miles, your concern with mileage is misplaced. Fuel costs, especially with
> gas so cheap in the US, are a small part of the cost of ownership. The
> difference between 18 mpg and 25mpg will be trivial.
> 
> Get an Explorer.

  Is this really true?  It depends on how much you drive, of 
  course.  Consider a vehicle owned for 150K miles.  Assume gas 
  costs $1.30/gal (it may increase with a new gas tax this year).

          $1.30 * 150,000 miles / 18 mpg = $10,833
          $1.30 * 150,000 miles / 25 mpg =  $7,800

  This is a difference of over $3,000, which is more than I have
  ever paid for service over the life of a car and pretty close
  to the cost of insurance for the life of a car.  For some cars,
  in fact, total gas costs may be the largest expense, even greater
  than the original purchase price of the car.

  So, buying the 25 mpg car basically gets you free insurance and
  perhaps you can feel good about causing less damage to the
  environment.

  Of course, if you don't drive this much, your savings are
  considerably less.

  Bill
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: ratner@cs.columbia.edu (Michael Ratner)
Subject: next generation Nissan Maxima ??
Organization: Columbia University Department of Computer Science
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 20:58:25 GMT


Hi !

Does anyone have any info on next generation Nissan Maxima ? I figured
it should appear in '93 but could not find any actual references to
when, what, and how much...

							-- Mike Ratner
	
-- 
******************************************************************************
			|  Michael B. Ratner  |
			|_____________________|

Newsgroups: rec.autos,rec.autos.tech
From: tmkk@uiuc.edu (Khan)
Subject: Re: Braking techniques 
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 17:09:45 GMT


In article <MUCIT.93Jan5031051@slate.cs.rochester.edu> mucit@cs.rochester.edu (Bulent Murtezaoglu) writes:
>In article <C0D4oy.A4A@news.cso.uiuc.edu> bsmg9810@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Bhaskar S.Manda) writes:
>[stuff deleted]
>>   1. Since engine braking has nothing to do with the tire/road
>>      contact, 
>
>Absolutely false.  The only place you're going to get the decelerating force
>is the tire/road contact no matter how you're slowing down your wheels.

...Unless, of course, he has a jet engine strapped onto the luggage rack
and the thrust vector is aimed directly opposite to the direction of
travel. ;-)
From: tpickett@auspex.com (Tom Pickett)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: SHO manuals
Date: 11 Jan 93 23:52:27 GMT
Reply-To: tpickett@auspex.com (Tom Pickett)
Organization: Auspex Systems, Inc.  Engineering

In article <1993Jan7.131145.4401@hubcap.clemson.edu>, Chuck@clemson.edu 
(Chuck Heck) writes:
> Try the Ford manual(s).  When I bought mine, the current year shop manual 
was
> $50, but earlier model years were less expensive.  Even at $50, the 
information
> is worth it.  My dealer uses the same book that I have, so we start our
> conversations using the same reference material.


My friendly Ford dealers want $120.00 for the shop manual for 1990,
and they informaed me they didn't have any.   3 months ago I ordered the
Motorsports catalog, and they haven't shipped it to me.  I hesitate to
order the shop manual.


Tom Pickett 
tpickett@auspex.com or 74616.2237@compuserve.com
SHO  GOZE
From: andrey@cs.arizona.edu (Andrey K. Yeatts)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: stipes on speedometer
Date: 6 Jan 93 16:09:00 GMT
Organization: U of Arizona, CS Dept, Tucson

I take it you have a four speed manual transmission?

-- 
Andrey Yeatts					Dept. of Computer Science
andrey@cs.arizona.edu				Univ. of Arizona
{uunet,allegra,cmcl2,noao}!arizona!andrey	Tucson, AZ 85721
						(602) 621-4108
From: ah190@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Stuart Pearl)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Taurus/Sable Brake Corrosion Recall?
Date: 6 Jan 1993 12:46:07 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc10.ins.cwru.edu


I could be mistaken, but I thought I saw here earlier a post about
brake corrosion on later model Taurus/Sables (through '92) that
resulted in a recall.  Anyone have further information on this?

Also, I test drove a '93 Sable wagon the other night with the 3.8L
engine and was very impressed.  The test drive was on both city
streets and interstate in moderate rain, poor visibility and very
wet conditions.  That Sable handled like a champ - totally forgot
I was driving the wagon version, which was only the GS and not
the more expensive LS.  Road manners were excellent, it hugged
the pavement, was very responsive and never wandered about.  I
think Ford/Mercury has a winner here.

Several months ago I drove a friend's '93 Camry with the 180HP (?)
or so engine.  That's a very nice car too and was definately very
peppy - BUT, for the couple grand more than the Sable (I realize
that bigger engine costs more), I didn't think it was worth it.
As a matter of fact, I could detect very little difference in 
handling between the Camry and Sable.  The Camry's good, but I
feel it's over hyped - the Sable's a better value at a better price-

-stu
-- 
                   ---===<<< Stuart Pearl >>>===---
                           Cleveland, Ohio
                      ah190@cleveland.freenet.edu
                         --------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: bob1@cos.com (Bob Blackshaw)
Subject: Re: A couple questions...
Organization: Corporation for Open Systems
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 16:43:05 GMT

In <105947@bu.edu> heiser@acs.bu.edu (William Heiser) writes:

>In article <C09Fs2.6Co@ns1.nodak.edu> mcelmury@plains.NoDak.edu (Michael McElmury) writes:
>>1. Has anyone found the 1993 Ford Probe GT high to insure? I am
>>   Family Insurance wanted to charge me $3,200 per year for full
>>   coverage. This price would go down to $2,700 when I turn 25...

>Wow!  Is that in North Dakota?  Do they typically have "very high" 
>insurance costs?  I would have expected it to be "cheap" there since
>it's not exactly densly populated :-)

>If it really costs $2700 to insure the 93 Probe GT *there*, I am afraid
>to think what it would cost in a place like Massachusetts or California,
>where even rates on "ordinary" (older) cars are very high.

Funny, my 89 Probe only costs me just under $600 a year in Maryland. It
would be cheaper than that, but I drive over 15 miles to work (72 miles
round trip, about half on the D.C. Beltway). Of course, I'm more than
a bit over 25, so maybe they think the old silver fox doesn't drive
fast.

Bob.
From: degner@next.com (Dave Egner)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: The Bizzare Freezing Honda Civic
Date: 11 Jan 93 21:32:18 GMT

In article <1993Jan6.234233.13953@henson.cc.wwu.edu> n8846069@henson.cc.wwu.edu  
(BarryB) writes:
>... Since the roads are icy, when I try
> to drive off, the rear wheels just stay in place and get pulled
> accross the ice.  ...  After driving
> on this for a few secs, I'll hear a very loud "crack" that sounds like
> something just snaped.  Then the tires will be free.
> 
> What could be the problem? 


I respectfully suggest that you double-check your PARKING BRAKE and cables,  
since this system does its thing to the rear wheels. Cables and the parts that  
get moved by them can get into the habit of freezing.

Good luck,

DE
From: riggert@mott.seas.ucla.edu (Eric F. Riggert)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Sports Car Opinions Wanted
Summary: MR2, MX-3, del Sol, etc.
Date: 12 Jan 93 06:30:06 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: SEASnet, University of California, Los Angeles

My girlfriend has decided to make her next car some sort of sports car
or roadster (now, before she has kids or otherwise would feel too
guilty if she splurged on herself like that.... :)   )

She is currently looking at the Mazda MX-3 (V6), Honda Civic del Sol Si,
Eagle Talon Tsi AWD (did I get that right?), and the Toyota MR2 Turbo.
Her personal preference is currently the MR2, based mostly on looks and
options she's aware of (this is also the most expensive - figures).  The
only car she's actually test driven is the MX-3, which she felt was very
quick (this is mostly due to the fact that she currently drives an 84
Sentra :) ), but the styling is sort of quirky (esp. just behind the doors,
and it looks MUCH better with a spoiler, in Her opinion).  I think she's
considering the del Sol mostly because it's so new/different.  The MR2
and Talon are more in line with her performance preference (actually, what
she would REALLY like is a new 300ZX or RX-7) but not with her pocketbook.

If anyone else is making a similar decision, would you be willing to 
share opinions?  It would be greatly appreciated.  Also, horror stories
(maintainence, dealer service or lack thereof, etc.) and opinions
of drivers of these cars would be wonderful.      

Please post/e-mail me at:  riggert@seas.ucla.edu

Thanks!
--= Eric =--
From: lstowell@pyrnova.mis.pyramid.com (Lon Stowell)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Tires of the Integra
Date: 7 Jan 93 03:02:31 GMT
Reply-To: lstowell@pyrnova.pyramid.com.pyramid.com (Lon Stowell)
Organization: Pyramid Technology Corporation

In article <1ifu5pINN7s4@fido.asd.sgi.com> jice@echo.asd.sgi.com (John Eisenman) writes:
>The time has come for me to replace my tires on my '88 Integra.
>
>The tires that came with the car are:
>
>	Yokohama AX-323   195/60R14 85H
>
>In this group, I usually see the size listed as HR14.  What does the
>H mean?  High performance?  Also, what does the 85H mean?
>
    Close, High speed.  doggended if I can remember what the 85H
    means....check a teletire add in R&T, they often publish
    translations.

>
>My mechanic sells the Michelin MXV2 and MXV3 as well as the XGT H4 for
>$103 and the XGTV for $115.  However, I see that nobody on the net likes
>the MXV's.
>
   They are really slippery, nasty abrupt breakaway, and frankly
   don't wear as long as you'd expect for THAT price.


>I am considering the following tires:
>
>	Yokahama A509
    Very good for all around driving.  Nice wet and very nice dry
    traction.  I've gotten close to 60,000 on a Mazda RX-7 driven
    very aggressively...but your FWD is gonna tear up fronts a bit.

    I paid about $60 apiece at Discount Tire Warehouse, but they
    don't carry them any more.  They said Price Club does, and
    perhaps 4-Day.  


>	Yokohama AVS A+4
  
    Some prefer these for all weather use to the A-509.  

>	Dunlop D40M2

    Killer tires.  You can find them at Discount Tire Warehouse.
    Considering moving to them myself.  Strange, I didn't know they
    were Japanese now.   

>	Michelin XGT H4

    Maybe, but IMHO overpriced compared to the Dunlop and definitely
    not a bargain compared to the Dunlops.

>	Goodyear Eagle GT+4

       Honestly dunno.  Usually more pricey than the other brands in
       my experience. 
>
>Which of these would be the best combination of performance and
>treadwear?  Would they all be ok in rain and snow (for trips to Tahoe, etc)?
  For snow you want fairly narrow tires...but you can get
  cable/radial chains for about $25 for LIGHT duty snow use.  
  If you go up there a lot, I'd just get a set of 5" steel rims
  and mount 4 Semperit, Continental, etc. snows on them.  
>
>Can anybody suggest where to look in the San Francisco Bay Area?
>
     Discount Tire Warehouse, Price Club, 4-Day, etc.

>Mt. View, CA 94039-7311		
>
     Its a bit further, but I've always had pretty decent dealings
     with the Discount Tire Warehouse on Coleman down in San Jose.

     Take 101 south to 880 south...exit at Coleman and it's about
     a mile down on the right...right behind SJ airport.  It's easy
     to miss, and traffic's a bitch.  There's a big rustic looking
     restaurant on the right just half a block before their
     driveway.

     You can also buy them from the Tire Rack and get a local dealer
     to balance and mount them.  That particular DTW will do this.
From: jimf@centerline.com (Jim Frost)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Airbags
Date: 12 Jan 1993 14:54:41 GMT
Organization: CenterLine Software, Inc.
NNTP-Posting-Host: 140.239.3.202

asbestos@nwu.edu (Michael A. Atkinson) writes:
>If one is wearing a properly designed seatbelt, correctly, and it doesn't
>fail in an impact, why would an airbag help?

>All the *anecdotal* (that's important, I'm not trying to pass this off as
>even remotely scientific) evidence I've collected is that airbags only
>prevent injury in the case of the idgit who didn't wear his seatbelt.

Testing evidence shows that airbags don't really help in preventing
injuries, but they do help in reducing the extent of injuries --
particularly to the head and neck.

It's interesting that eight of the top ten cars tested by NHTSA for
driver's side head and chest injuries had air bags.

It's also interesting that only one of the top ten for passenger's
side head and chest injuries had an air bag.  Whether this is due to a
lack of cars with passenger's side air bags or because the air bag
doesn't make as much difference for the passenger is indeterminate at
this time.

To me, all of this is pretty moot.  I bought a car with an airbag to
get real seatbelts.

jim frost
jimf@centerline.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: quoctp@cs.toronto.edu (Quoc Tuan Pham)
Subject: Re: Tricks for cold weather?
Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of Toronto
Date: 9 Jan 93 06:58:53 GMT

andrew@frip.WV.TEK.COM (Andrew Klossner) writes:

>I've unstuck a door lock by blowing into it.  You have to shove your
>mouth up against the door to get enough pressure.  Yes, this adds
>humidity to the lock internals, but several breaths are usually enough
>to get me in.

>  -=- Andrew Klossner  (andrew@frip.wv.tek.com)
>                       (uunet!tektronix!frip.WV.TEK!andrew)

I don't think this is a good idea. There is a strange phenomenon where
bare skin becomes stuck to cold metal. If your lips happen to touch
the metal, you could be glued to the door! Don't try it.