HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jab3@cec2.wustl.edu (John Alonzo Breen)
Subject: Re: Need advice on replacing plastic gutters
Organization: Washington University, St. Louis Mo.
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 18:11:05 GMT

In article <1992Aug18.163603.14983@walter.cray.com> jeffz@cray.com (Jeff Zais) writes:
>Because we have ice and snow, I put a bracket at each rafter (24 inches).
>One odd thing is that the brochure from Alumax recommended supports every
>24 to 36 inches, while the individual packages recommended 18 to 24 inches.

I noticed that, too :-)

>One other tip I got from looking at my Mom's gutters, which were installed
>professionally:  Don't use a special downspout piece.  This just requires
>extra seams.  Where you want a downspout, scribe the shape of the downspout
>into the gutter and cut an "X" going between opposite corners.  Push back
>the four tabs and you can attach a downspout with a small sheet metal screw.
>It works quite well.

I might try this.  I wasn't going to use the special downspout piece,
because the brackets for the downspout are about 6" over too far.  I
noticed that they do sell special inserts that fit in a (presumably
user-cut) hole in the regular gutter, but your way actually sounds
easier.

>One other tip from a cohort at work:  use "plastic tile" (a flexible pipe
>just underground) to direct the water far away from the house.  I haven't 
>tried this yet, but will soon (He says be sure the plastic tile is not the
>perforated type :-) !   )   

I've done this in my back yard.  One person warned me away from the
corrugated plastic pipe, because it can get clogged easier, but I
haven't had any problems in ~6 years (I do have a strainer in the top
of the downspout, though).
--
John A. Breen                   |
jab3@cec1.wustl.edu             | This space unintentionally left blank
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: eliot@chutney.rtp.dg.com (Topher Eliot)
Subject: Re: Installing new front door
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 92 16:54:07 GMT
Distribution: usa
Reply-To: eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com
Organization: Data General Corporation, Research Triangle Park, NC

In article <1992Aug13.145015.21496@porthos.cc.bellcore.com>, patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie) writes:
|> I believe that you can't find paint that will stick to PT lumber, but
|> my info is several years old. If I'm wrong, I'd like to know what paints
|> will work, since I'd like to put up and paint some PT railing.

I think the problem is with *new* PT lumber, which is dripping wet.  You have
to let it dry out a long, long time (6 months outdoors?  a year?) to get it
dry enough to not be a problem.  Then clean, prime, and paint it.
Note that I've never actually done this myself, only heard about it.

-- 
Topher Eliot             Data General DG/UX Systems Administration Development
(919) 248-6371      eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com       {backbone}!mcnc!rti!dg-rtp!eliot
Obviously, I speak for myself, not for DG.
misc.consumers.house archivist.  Send mail to house-archive@dg-rtp.dg.com
"Daddy, I love you.  But I love Mommy more because you're a little silly."
From: olney@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Doug Olney)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: How to Hang a Carpet Face Down on the ceiling?
Date: 17 Aug 92 19:23:16 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Rosa, CA


How about building a pine frame (2x2's on the edges, 1x2's for cross
pieces?) so you can attach the carpet to the frame without breaking your
neck.  I would try and use high test fish line if you can tie good knots
with it.

Then hang the frame using a hook and eye bolt combination into the ceiling.
A good hardware store will have hooks that have the recommended load
weight printed right on the package. 

If Norm (New Yankee Workshop) where doing it, he would probably use
eye bolts in the ceiling and in the frame, placing them so he could run
a metal rod through adjacent eye bolt pairs.  That way alignment isn't
as critical.


						      Doug Olney
						      Santa Rosa, CA
From: gt@hpfcbig.SDE.HP.COM (George Tatge)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 15:56:46 GMT
Subject: Re: Cost per square for tear-off
Organization: HP SESD, Fort Collins, CO
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house

In misc.consumers.house, rwl@tornado.kodak.com (Richard W. Lourette) writes:


>Our roof needs replacing. It is in very bad shape, and should have been
>replaced long ago. We just purchased the house, or I would have done
>something about it long ago.

>Rich

For a 10/12 pitch, assuming the roof isn't too cut up, you should
probably expect to pay about $120-$150 per square for a tear off
and new roof.

Here are things to GET IN WRITING!

1. All existing material to be torn off (don't settle for tearing
off one layer).

2. Any damaged sheathing to be replaced (agree on a cost/ sq. ft.).

3. ALL material to be cleaned up and hauled off (you will have about
   23 zillion little match cover size pieces of comp. laying around
   the house and in your bushes otherwise).  Try to get them to agree
   to lay tarps around the house while they're working.

4. Tell them where they may NOT park their truck.  They are (quite
   naturally) going to want to back up under the eaves to throw
   things in easily.

5. They are responsible for water damage inside your house caused
   by leaving sections of roof uncovered.  A 40 square 10/12 roof
   with two roofs on it is going to take about 10-30 man-days just
   to tear off and clean up.  You don't want them leaving big
   sections uncovered.

6. Replace all metal and flashings.  Doing a job this big and expensive
   means you should go ahead and replace pipe flashings, sidewall flashings,
   etc.  That way, when you reroof in 10 to 15 years, you won't have
   to worry about them since you'll just be going over the shingles
   you're putting on now.

7. And of course, you want it guaranteed against leeks.

g (i've torn off more roofs than most hurricanes) t


Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: dedek@meaddata.com (Mike Dedek)
Subject: Re: DYI Ceramic Tile -- Questions
Keywords: dyi tile questions
Organization: Mead Data Central, Dayton OH
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 13:12:20 GMT

In article <1992Aug13.154747.3982@ucsu.Colorado.EDU>, carter@spot.Colorado.EDU (Mike Carter) writes:
|> 
<stuff about doing a kitchen floor themselves>
|> 				- Mike

I notice the subject is "DYI".  Does this stand for "Do Yourself In"? :)

-Mike
From: esr@unixhub.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Edwin S. Russell)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Which garage door opener to use?
Date: 21 Aug 92 17:38:01 GMT

John McGing writes:
> Jeff Zais writes:
> >M. Guyott writes:
> >> I am getting ready to purchase two garage door openers.  So far the
> >> "Genie" garage door openers seem to be the best/most popular.  I would
> >> be interested in hearing about other people's experiences with garage
> >> door openers and which brands of openers they would recommend.
> 
> >We had a Genie chain drive opener that went bad after four years of 
> >very light use (didn't put the car in the garage much while living in 
> >California).  
>
> So who makes Sears door openers?  Genie, Chamberlin?  Someone else?  And
> are they any good?

We are now on our third garage door opener.  The first one was a Heathkit  
chain drive which was underpowered for the door and required frequent  
adjustment of chain tension but it lasted several years.  The second was a  
Sears chain drive which failed after about 3 years.  Before replacing this  
cheap piece of crap I called a professional and asked him what he  
recommended.  His recommendation was a Genie "industrial strength" called the  
Genie Pro 98 with a screw drive.  He claimed he has never had any problems  
with any he has installed and that if ours had any problems to call him and  
he would replace it, no charge.  So far no problems and no readjustments.  It  
cost about $100 more than the Genies available in the stores but it appears  
to me to be worth the money.  We have a heavy one-piece wooden door.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: kls4344@ritvax.isc.rit.edu (Person in flux)
Subject: Re: Painting Aluminum Siding 
Reply-To: kls4344@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 17:21:21 GMT

In article <1992Aug14.182625.23361@philabs.philips.com>, 
dsr@philabs.philips.com (Deborah S. Rech) writes:

>We have aluminum siding on our house that the previous owners installed about
>20 years ago.  [...]  Several people have suggested painting the siding. [...]
>Does anyone have any experience with this?  What type of prep and paint would
>be best for the job?                                                     

My parents painted their 20-year-old aluminum sided house last year with great
results, changing the color from a bleak olive green to a warm cream.  The
house is in Maryland, just northwest of Washington, D.C.  I think they simply
primed and painted the house with some good paint (I can ask what brand/type). 
Go for painting your house.  Aluminum holds paint well.

Katie
From: jayantr@batph84.bnr.ca (Jayant Ragde)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Home Air Conditioning recommendations wanted
Keywords: A/C, Air conditioning
Date: 13 Aug 92 15:33:37 GMT
Reply-To: jayantr@bnr.ca
Distribution: na
Organization: BNR, Inc., Atlanta


-- 


	Recently, the central air conditioning unit in
my house conked out and I am looking at puttin in a
new unit.  Before I make a decision I am trying to
solicit some wisdom from the net - any particular
brand to avoid, anything you really like about the
unit you have, any special features to look for,
maintenance experience with different makes etc.
Hopefully being armed with all this information I
will be able to make an educated ( (:- ) decision.

	This issue may have been discussed to death
earlier but being an infrequent reader I am requesting
this information - please either email this information
or post follow ups.

Thanks in advance for your help,

Jayant
----------

Jayant V.Ragde            jayantr@x400gate.bnr.ca
B.N.R., Inc.                     (404)246-2407
705 Westech Drive
Norcross, GA 30092
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Installing hardwood floors
Reply-To: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 92 23:58:41 GMT

In article <1992Aug12.132844.2103@vixvax.mgi.com> mcnamara@vixvax.mgi.com writes:

>	Due to the allergies of my infant daughter (eczema and asthma) I
>am planning to have hardwood floors installed in my house.  Since the
>existing carpeting is laid over a plywood base, I assume that the installers
>will have to alter that base (secure, level, etc.).

The plywood *should* be secure and level already. You should be able to
pull up the carpet and pad, remove the carpet hold down strips, and put
down hardwood. The installers will, of course, verify this, but it won't
be normal for them to have to do anything more than drive in a nail or
two if the floor squeaks anywhere. Don't give them ideas on how to pad
the bill!

>.......................  Another question is whether or not anyone has
>successfully installed used flooring.  I understand that used flooring needs
>to be sanded down to remove the finish (and even the edges).  Will this
>put more junk in the air (from the used finish) than going with new flooring?

Yes, it will have to be sanded after it's put down. My experience with this
is minimal, but in both cases the sanding dust was fairly heavy and settled
rapidly. I was able to clean up one day later and varnish. Forced air heat
or central air should be shut off during the process.

>Finally, has anyone used Livos products for finishing flooring?  How did
>it work, and what kind of wood was it used on?

Never used it.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | There are very few personal problems which
George Patterson -  | cannot be solved by a suitable application
                    | of high explosive.
                    |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: IKEA Cabinets
Reply-To: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 92 17:39:58 GMT

In article <MACRAKIS.92Aug12115623@next4.osf.org> macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis) writes:

>In case this is of interest, here's a short review of IKEA
>merchandise in general, and IKEA kitchens in particular.
> < lots of good stuff removed >

One thing I didn't see in Stavros comments is the fact that IKEA cabinets
are in metric dimensions. They won't "plug-in" as replacements for older
cabinets made in America.

With brand new kitchens or complete remodeling, this won't cause any
problems, but it is something to take into account during the design
phase. It could, in fact, easily prove to be an advantage if you have
a space which works out to some multiple of standard metric sizes, but
isn't some multiple of 3".

Somebody else asked for phone numbers. I'll look them up tonight if
nobody else beats me to it.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | There are very few personal problems which
George Patterson -  | cannot be solved by a suitable application
                    | of high explosive.
                    |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com (Fred Christiansen)
Subject: pat on the back for Home Depot
Organization: Motorola Computer Group, Technical Systems Operations
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 17:16:25 GMT

Sometimes it seems like it's awful hard to get good service.  I just
wanted to let you all know of some good service from Home Depot.

I wanted Kwikset's Barkley antique brass handleset.  A door company
quoted me $107, HomeBase quoted $108, one lumber yard quoted $93,
while another claimed it was no longer made.  Home Depot said they had
this handleset in polished brass for $47, but that antique brass would
be special order.

So, I went in to Home Depot and looked around and found the Kwikset
special order display.  The Barkley handleset had a tag saying $58.30.
I called the customer service chap over and told him I'd like to order
one.  We went over to the desk and looked into his books.  There, it
said the S.O. price was ~$65, and when he called the order in they
told him the price was now ~$72.  The fellow did not try to wedge me into
paying the higher price (still lower than any of the other stores) but
sold it for what the tag said, saying that they would honor the tag price.
I picked it up this morning.
-- 
Fred Christiansen, Motorola, 2900 S Diablo Way, Tempe, AZ 85282  "Canajun, eh?"
fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com  ||  uunet!phx.mcd.mot.com!fredch  ||  +1 602-438-3464
  On Attitude & the Immune System:  A sound heart is the life of the flesh:
    but envy the rottenness of the bones.  Prov 14:30
From: burd@pilot.njin.net (Barry Burd)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Making low offers
Keywords: house buying
Date: 16 Aug 92 23:24:45 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.


Does anyone have experience offering much less for a house than the
listing price?  I sold a house for a full 20% less than the listing
price, and now that I'm looking for a house to buy, I'd like to get
as good a deal as the deal that was gotten from me.  Any hints on
pulling off such a deal effectively?

Mail replies directly to bburd@tarzan.drew.edu or bburd@drew.bitnet
I'll post a summary of replies to misc.consumers.house
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: ldcolto@PacBell.COM (Larry Colton)
Subject: Re: help with neighborhood dogs
Organization: Pacific * Bell
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1992 05:09:19 GMT

In article <4530079@hpfcdc.fc.hp.com> newlin@hpfcdc.fc.hp.com (Doug Newlin) writes:
>Although I didn't read the original post, here's a solution that
>really works:
>
>Get a spray bottle that will project a single stream for some distance.

This sounds like a great use for those high power "Super Shooter" water
guns the kids play with.

>Fill the bottle with a 60-40 mixture of household ammonia and water
>(don't make it 100% ammonia or it might injure the dog's eyes).
>When the dog trespasses, squirt him down good.  The immediate effect
>is that the dog goes into paroxysms and tries to escape from this
>painfully noxious (to him) smell.  Soon, he will associate this
>nasal assault with your yard and won't come near it.
>
>It's just a matter of avoidance conditioning.

--Larry
  ldcolto@pacbell.com
From: ibe@world.std.com (ira b ekhaus)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: question on washers/dryers
Date: 18 Aug 92 01:20:29 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA

hello,

Are there any references or recommendations for brands of washers to buy?
How about the issues in buy them used (what to look for , % of new price) ?

thanks,

ira 
ekhaus 
ibe@world.std.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Another gas versus electric heating query (or two)
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 17:44:21 GMT


Sorry, since I know this has been discussed before.

I live in a house in a rual area. Natural gas is not available (neither is a  
sewer line or water line [I have a well]). Everything in the house currently  
runs on electricity, including the clothes dryer, oven, and water heater. 

The water heater is on its last legs. I'm considering having a propane tank  
installed, with pipe running into the garage so I can get a LP gas water  
heater. From the two quotes I've gotten, this is a somewhat expensive  
proposition (over $1K, not including the water heater itself).

In looking at the yellow energy labels on water heaters, I haven't seen a big  
enough difference to make converting to LP gas even close to worthwhile - the  
payback seems to be in decades, not years. Is this in fact true? If there is a  
better way to calculate this stuff, I'd appreciate hearing about it. The other  
appliances in the house are quite new (and nice), so I won't be replacing them  
with LP gas models for a long time.


As a side note, which may nonetheless be important, the sole source of room  
heat for the house is currently a wood stove, which is impractical for us now.  
I've been seriously considering installing underfloor radiant heat. The house  
is a 30 year old, single story, wood frame house with a reasonable crawl space  
underneath. The floor joints are 4x4s, pretty far apart with lots of pylons,  
and with a 2x6 T&G subfloor. Most of the house will have either tile or  
hardwood floors, with vinyl in the bathrooms. The bedrooms will probably have  
carpet, though.

Anyway, since I may be using the water heater to heat the house (yes, I'll  
install the appropriate heat transfer devices, not actually mix the water), how  
can I calculate how much "extra" use the water heater will get, and thus how  
much faster the LP conversion payback will be?

As usual, TIA,
Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com

PS: I'd also like to hear from anyone who's installed radiant heat in their  
house, or have lived in a house with *recently* installed radiant heat. I will  
not be encasing the tubes in concrete, and they will be one of the  
plastic/rubber, not copper, types. Horror stories about 1950's vintage  
installations don't really concern me - the technology has changed quite a bit  
since then.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Does an office next door increase property value?
From: gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston)
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 92 12:34:16 CDT
Organization: Garys' Home for Obsolete Computers

jew@rt.sunquest.com (/87336) writes:

> My neighbor is trying to rezone his property as light office.  Will
> this increase or decrease the value of my property?

Depends upon the area, what type of activity is allowed in your city
in a "light office" zone, and whether you want to rezone yours as
well.

Generally, it'd be regarded as decreasing the surrounding value
slightly, I think.

Gary Heston, at home....
gary@cdthq.uucp
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: jab3@cec2.wustl.edu (John Alonzo Breen)
Subject: Need advice on replacing plastic gutters
Organization: Washington University, St. Louis Mo.
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1992 19:24:40 GMT

I've finally decided to replace the plastic gutter on the front of my
house (it leaks bad, both behind it and at the joints, and the
downspout is too small).  I was hoping some of you could give me
advice/opinions on installing new gutters.

1.  Type: apparently, the only gutters one can buy at the hardware
store are aluminum or plastic (the rest of my house has galvanized),
so I was going to go with the aluminum.  Anyone have any other
options?

2.  Hanging method: from what I gather, there are basically two ways
to hang the gutter:
    o   spike and ferrule: this looks the simplest, and looks like it
would give more strength along the cross-section (for when I lean a
ladder against it), but hammering in the ferrules while keeping the
gutter lined up looks like it could be a royal pain.

    o   fascia bracket: this would be easier to install, but it looks
like it would push the gutter away from the fascia board (that's one
problem I have with the old plastic gutter).  It also looks like it
*might* give better hanging support, but not cross-sectionally (and
the aluminum gutters seem kind of flimsy).

3.  fascia board: does anyone know what kind of wood this should be?
Pine?  Redwood?  I may have to replace a section.

4.  painting: how well does latex paint adhere to the aluminum gutters?

As always, any help is appreciated.
--
John A. Breen                   |
jab3@cec1.wustl.edu             | This space unintentionally left blank
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: dedek@meaddata.com (Mike Dedek)
Subject: Re: Sears Garbage Disposal Repairs?
Organization: Mead Data Central, Dayton OH
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 17:35:30 GMT
Distribution: usa

In article <1992Aug20.080009.1@uwovax.uwo.ca>, singer@uwovax.uwo.ca writes:
|> My Sears (Kenmore) garbage disposal, purchased in 1987, has been operating
|> "slowly" for several years--takes a long time to process anything. I assume
|> that it is the shredder rings, but when a Sears serviceman came, he told me he
|> would have to remove the unit, have it diagnosed (it might be the motor, he
|> claimed), etc. I know this routine: it means the loss of the sink's use and
|> that of our dishwasher for untold weeks while the disposal sits in their
|> service facility and they get around to ordering some part or another that will
|> be found to be out of stock, or the mechanic or inventory clerk will be on
|> vacation, et al. Instead, I have asked that the local Sears service group order
|> the shredder ring stuff in advance and install them here, in my house, thus
|> avoiding this hassle. Has anybody else had experience with such disposals? Have
|> you ever installed the shredder rings yourself (if indeed that was the
|> problem)? Any advice?-- 

I took our disposal apart when  we moved in - it was jammed and the reset 
button was jammed.  It didn't look like it was salvageable, so we bought a
new one for $50 and I installed it.  It was easy to install.  Judging from
what I've heard about Sears repair contractors, it might be cheaper and
faster to just put in a new one.  BTW the new one was a decent Insinkerator
with 1/2 hp I think.

-Mike