HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: ka1gt@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (robert.m.atkins)
Subject: Re: CANON off camera flash cord. Operation with 630. Any info?
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 18:23:51 GMT

In article <1992Sep9.163125.13114@newsgate.sps.mot.com>, dees@sid.sps.mot.com (Randy Dees) writes:
> In article <1992Sep5.184455.25324@cbnewsm.cb.att.com>, 
> ka1gt@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (robert.m.atkins) writes:
> > > 
> > Does anyone know WHY the 630 and RT don't work with this cord? If it were
> > just a pin-for-pin extension cord I don't see how the camera would know that
> > the flash wasn't on the camera. What else does it do? When I asked a Canon
> > rep, he said that the cord didn't work with the 630 but he had no 
> explanation
> > of why this should be so. The speedlite reference manual is equally
> > informative!
> 
> I use the Canon cord all the time with my 630. according to a dealer here,
> is that because of the higher clock speed used on the 630 & the RT, the 
> cord  does not meet the FCC requirements for EMI/RFi transmission......
> it is therefore illegal to use the cord with the 630....if anyone complains 
> about your emi/rfi
> 

From what I have gathered from my own experiments and other replies, you are
at least partly correct. It seeems that there is some incomaptibility 
between the drive electonics in the 630 and the off-camera flash cord due
to the CPU speed of the 630/RT. High speed data and high cable capacitance
has been cited. However, RFI is not the reason for incompatibility. The 
630/RT does in fact not work properly with this cable in the program modes
(P or "green square"). It does SEEM to work OK in the Av (aperture priority)
and M (Manual) modes, as well as with a flash set to manual operation. The
problem appears to lie in the A-TTL mode and the inability of the flash to
tell the camera what aperture to set.

RFI is another issue, and Canon state in the documentation that comes with
the off-camera flash cord that it should only be used with a few EOS cameras
(E0S-1 + some others) in order to comply with some RFI standards. However it
will WORK with all EOS cameras except the 630/RT, even though RFI emissions
may exceed permissable levels.

BTW, if you are getting perfect operation with the 630 and off-camera flash
cord (including program modes) then that is very interesting (and I gather
unusual). There certainly seem to be problems with the 430EZ and A-TTL
operation. I wonder what flash you are using? Maybe one of the less complex
flash units has less problems?


===============================================================
Bob Atkins  AT&T Bell Labs  email (direct)  att!clockwise!rma
===============================================================
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: klprice@eng.clemson.edu (kevin price)
Subject: Re: Mirror Lockup
Reply-To: klprice@eng.clemson.edu
Organization: College of Engineering, Clemson Univ.
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 21:33:50 GMT


Mirror lockup cuts down significantly on camera vibration upon shutter release.  
As you probably know, the mirror must move to the up position right before the 
shutter opens... as it does so it causes significant vibrations.  This is not 
noticeable unless you are doing something of high magnification such as macro
work... Mirror lock up allows you to move the mirror to the up position and 
release the shutter after the vibrations have dissipated resulting in supposedly
clearer pictures.  I have never used this option because I don't have mirror lock
on my camera... so I can't vouche for the integrety of the theory.
	Have a wonderful day,  Kevin Price
From: vemuri@informix.com (Sudhakar Vemuri)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Info on Better wide angle
Date: 10 Sep 92 18:55:05 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

Dear friends,

I am very new to photography. I love to take nature photos which I understand
need wider angle lenses.

I want to buy a SLR camera with Autofocus option. I would like to try Canon 
EOS rebel or its minolta counterpart.

Here are some of my basic questions :

1. Since I need to take more nature photos, Should I buy a 28mm-50mm camera 
with additional lenses to add for higher zooms.

2. If I buy 35-50mm or 35-80mm zoom, can I add 28mm-*mm lenses to it ?

3. How often does one needs to use zooms higher than 80mm ? 

4. Any good camera shops in Bay area with good deals .


Thanks

Sudhakar Vemuri
From: bjs@uts.amdahl.com (Barry Sherman)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: High speed useful ? (was Re: Nikon N90 technobabble)
Date: 11 Sep 92 19:20:10 GMT
Followup-To: rec.photo
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

I wrote:

>I also notice that one of the thrusts of 35mm wunderkameras is toward
>more silent operation, another area in which they may someday catch up
>to the cameras of 100 years ago (or todays view cameras and Hasselblads, for 
>that matter).

John Sparks responded:

>Hasselblads, quiet!  Leicas are quiet, but Hasselblads with their big mirrors
>make most 35mm SLR's seem quiet.  TLR's, view cameras and most rangefinders
>are quiet, but anything with a moving mirror is going to have a hard time
>being really quiet.  I think the trend toward silent operation is a great
>feature, but still has a long way to go.

Good point.  I've never used a Hasselblad - only been around those fortunate
enough to be less financially-challenged (to be politically correct ;-)
than I.  I guess that since I do almost nothing but landscape, the Hassies
I've heard have always been tripodded and mirror-lockup used so they 
seemed pretty quiet.  But now that I think of it, I once heard one ka-chunking
away at a wedding and was impressed at it's commanding voice.  :-)

Barry

-- 


|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Barry Sherman, Amdahl Corp.       | "Any fool can face a crisis - it's     | 
| bjs@ruts.ccc.amdahl.com           |  this day-to-day living that wears you |
|                                   |  out." - Anton Chekhov                 |
|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Amdahl, being a corporation, is a legal fiction.  Therefore it is incapable|
| of holding, let alone expressing, opinions.  Unfortunately, this has been  |
| said of me as well.                                                        |
|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
From: ark@alice.att.com (Andrew Koenig)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Anyone own a Zone VI field camera?
Date: 14 Sep 92 23:52:52 GMT
Reply-To: ark@alice.UUCP ()
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories, Murray Hill NJ

In article <PHILG.92Sep14124309@zug.ai.mit.edu> philg@martigny.ai.mit.edu writes:

> Kodak promised Readyload TMX (TMAX 100) over a year ago but never
> delivered...

Anyway, I don't want TMX; I want TXP!  First, I understand TMX is
very picky about development, though I would try TMY if available.
My main objection is that ISO 100 is slower than I would like,
because in practice the fastest exposures I would get would be
1/30 at f/22 and foliage will blur in a breeze at such speeds.
-- 
				--Andrew Koenig
				  ark@europa.att.com
From: jimc@tau-ceti.isc-br.com (Jim Cathey)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Bogus Olympus Add
Date: 5 Sep 92 03:54:54 GMT
Organization: ISC - Bunker Ramo, Spokane, WA

In article <1992Sep4.083558.28769@ccsun.strath.ac.uk> clcp16@ccsun.strath.ac.uk ("S.C.Russell") writes:
>	Sorry - rather poor mechanical engineering `joke' there.
>Mu (well, alright, mju) is the coefficient of (dynamic? it was so
>long ago) friction. It was meant to be funny; it won't happen again.

u	is Static friction
 s

u	is Dynamic (kinetic) friction
 k

Unless I've forgotten again...

-- 
+----------------+
! II      CCCCCC !  Jim Cathey
! II  SSSSCC     !  ISC-Bunker Ramo
! II      CC     !  TAF-C8;  Spokane, WA  99220
! IISSSS  CC     !  UUCP: uunet!isc-br!jimc (jimc@isc-br.isc-br.com)
! II      CCCCCC !  (509) 927-5757
+----------------+
			"PC's --- the junk bonds of the computer industry"
From: rune@cimsand.UUCP (Rune Riisnaes)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Slave Flash Photography?
Date: 9 Sep 92 09:35:39 GMT
Organization: Cimage A.S, Sandvika, Norway.
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4

acs@csri.toronto.edu (Alvin Chia-Hua Shih) writes:
: I'm interested in getting an optically-trigged slave flash in the hopes
: of eliminating the nasty behind-the-subject shadow associated with direct
: flash (in those situations where bounce flash won't work).  Would I just
: place the optically-trigged slave behind the subject, facing the wall?
: 
: I was thinking of getting one of those "Morris Mini Wide" slaves, but I
: hear that it doesn't have variable output.  How would I balance the light
: against my main flash?
: 
: Any other recommendations for slave flashes?  Any experiences to relate?
: Speed of setup?  Final results?  Thanks.

If I have control over the subjects position, I usually use one or two 
slave flashes and/or fill reflectors in addition to the main flash to 
control the light (and shadows).
My slaves (unfortunatly) don't have variable output, so I balance the 
light by adjusting the distance, or by bouncing the light off cardboard
reflectors I've painted in different shades of gray.
(It takes some experiments to figure out the light loss, but it's
a real cheap way to light control :-)
And I use a small Apollo umbrella for my main flash.

If I don't have control over subject position, like when doing candids,
I rely on a flash diffuser (Lumiquest SoftBox or a Micro Apollo),
and have the flash mounted on a bracket high above the camera.  It works
reasonable well.

-- 
Rune Riisnaes    E-mail: rune@cimage.no, rune@cimage.com, rune@cimsand.uucp
                 Cimage A.S,  Skytterdalen 6,  N-1300 Sandvika,  Norway.
                 Phone: (47-2) 54 90 40   Fax: (47-2) 54 58 40
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: rspeirs@javelin.sim.es.com (Ron Speirs)
Subject: Re: B&W Slide film
Organization: Evans & Sutherland Computer Corporation
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 20:37:03 GMT

In article <1992Sep14.110441.1@acad3.alaska.edu> fsjfz@acad3.alaska.edu writes:
>In article <1992Sep14.030852.1906@ultb.isc.rit.edu>, andpph@ritvax.isc.rit.edu writes:
>>BTW, there is also a Kodak Direct Positive Copy film that has a speed of about
>> .1 or so.... not too practical for action photography but maybe useable for
>>still, very still, lives. On the other hand, T-Max, Tech Pan, and Ilford Pan f
>>and Agfapan can all be developed to a positive which is what B&W slide film is
>>after all.
>> 
> i'm not sure if this is the same film as a `Kodak Direct Positive Copy Film',
>but that sounds an awful lot like Kodak Ektagraphic.  It's a b/w slide film for
>shooting text or b/w graphics for reproduction.
> If you make exposures from about EI4 to EI20, call it EI8 when you develop,
>you can get some very interesting still life shots.  i did that once with a
>nude (and harsh sidelighting only) and was very happy with the shots that came
>out.  For general photography though, i've never seen anyone get any grey tones
>from this film.  It is black, or it is white.  That's it.
>James Zuelow

I'm not sure about `Kodak Direct Positive Copy Film', but there was a
`Kodak Direct Positive Panchromatic Film 5246' which was specially designed
for B&W slides, to be reversal processed.  Unfortunately, it was discontinued
in 1989.

Kodak Ektagraphic is just Kodalith Ortho 6556 in a 35-mm cassette.  As Mr.
Zuelo mentioned, it's black or white, no grays.  I don't think that you would
want to use it for general B&W slides unless you wanted the `litho' effect.
BTW, I've never processed Kodalith as reversal, but it should work.

Ron Speirs, Evans & Sutherland Computer Corp., Salt Lake City, Utah
From: gsnow@clark.edu (Gary Snow)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: High speed useful ? (was Re: Nikon N90 technobabble)
Date: 9 Sep 92 17:20:55 GMT
Article-I.D.: clark.1992Sep9.172055.3070
Organization: Clark College, Vancouver, Wa.  USA

In article <278@metran.UUCP> jay@metran.UUCP (Jay Ts) writes:
>gsnow@clark.edu (Gary Snow) writes:
>: In article <274@metran.UUCP> jay@metran.UUCP (Jay Ts) writes:
>: >
>: >Kodak recommends additional exposure AND FILTER CORRECTION for some
>: >of their color films when exposed for less than 1/1000 sec......
>: 
>: I hope you meant "....more than 1/1000 sec...." and not LESS.
>
>Actually, I meant *less* (1/2000 < 1/1000).

Oooop, yeah, I realized that after I posted......my mind must have been
playing reverse login on me.

Gary

-- 
-----
Gary Snow
uunet!clark!gsnow  or  gsnow@clark.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: monson@hobo.ECE.ORST.EDU (Ty Monson)
Subject: Re: Anyone own a Zone VI field camera?
Organization: ECE Dept.,OSU,Corvallis
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 17:20:44 GMT

In article <my00-140992165522@myuen.gte.com> my00@gte.com (Michael Yuen) writes:
    (much deleted)
>
>Fuji has been making readyload sheet films for Polaroid for years. I wonder
>if Quickload is any different from that of Polaroid.
>
  I just got Fuji's promotional brochure on Quickload. Fuji claims
  that quickload contains a sheet of film that is identical to
  film sold for regular 4x5 film holders.
  A photo depicts a sheet of film held in place with non-film tabs.
  The Polaroid product uses a specially cut piece of film. You 
  (the processor) must tear along a perforation at each end of the
  film to extract a 4x5 sheet for processing.
  Fuji is also promoting its dust-wiper feature incorporated into
  the envelope.
From: donl@glass.esd.sgi.com (donl mathis)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Tri-X & D-76
Keywords: N+2?
Date: 15 Sep 92 06:06:08 GMT
Reply-To: donl@glass.esd.sgi.com (donl mathis)
Distribution: na
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc., Mountain View, CA, USA


In article <1992Sep11.211426.17723@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>,
sbertsch@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Steve Bertsch) writes:
|> Anyone have any suggestions on getting a N+2 or so expansion from
|> Tri-X developed in D-76?

Have you tried increasing the development?  :)

(Sorry.  I just couldn't resist.)

- donl mathis at Silicon Graphics Computer Systems, Mountain View, CA
donl@sgi.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: aoad354@chpc.utexas.edu (Jim Xu)
Subject: Nikkor 70-210/4-5.6 AF
Organization: The University of Texas System - CHPC
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 92 05:11:55 GMT

There have been a lot of posting about various kinds of lens in 
this group, but nobody talked about Nikkor 70-210/4-5.6 AF.
Is it an excellent zoom? If so, why Nikon does not update it
to D-type? (Maybe because N90 is aimed to upper level amateur/pro,
80-200/2.8D is enough. I would like to see a N60/N70 which costs 
around N6006)

If you have this len, please say sth.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: gg10@prism.gatech.EDU (GALLOWAY)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: T-Max versus Plus-X/Tri-X
Date: 14 Sep 92 22:40:29 GMT
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology

What is the advantage or disadvantage to T-Max 100/400 over Plus-X/Tri-X?
I am just starting B&W photography, and plan on processing myself.  Is T-Max
any harder to work with, or just better quality for more money?

Thanks
Greg Galloway
gg10@prism.gatech.edu
From: uli@i13d5.ira.uka.de (Uli Bodenhausen)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Nikon Photo School: is it good?
Date: 11 Sep 1992 09:05:29 GMT
Organization: University of Karlsruhe, FRG
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: i13d5.ira.uka.de


|> This is an alternately amusing and irritating subject.  At the risk of
|> specious generalization, it seems that in every hobby or avocation 
|> involving "technology" (for lack of a better word) there are those who
|> seem to believe that ownership of a "prestige" or "professional" item
|> somehow makes them better (in whatever sense of the word you choose)
|> than those who do not possess such things.  The set of such persons
|> seems to have significant intersection with the set of those who feel
|> the need to denigrate equipment (and the owners of such equipment) that
|> they personally do not use.  In the sport of bicycling one finds owners
|> of titanium or carbon fiber-framed bikes with all the fanciest accessories
|> wobbling slowly but dangerously down the street.  In the motorized
|> arena we are treated to the spectacle of a sports car lurching down 
|> the street accompanied by the sound of grinding gears.  Of course the
|> photographic counterparts of these posers are in some ways good things -
|> with such persons a supply of mint used equipment is assured every time a
|> new model is introduced.  (Thank you Nikon for the "D" lenses !  There
|> are still a bunch of "obselete" AF Nikkors I'd like to have.)
|> 

I'd buy the latest Nikolta every time when a new and 'improved' model
comes out if this would improve my pictures. Unfortunately, I find that
they would not improve them. This is frustrating. Why can't I just spend
money and improve my pictures? Why do I have to work so hard on it? .-)

	Uli

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: andpph@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Subject: Re: Inrared Photog (was: ...+ Spider Webs)
Reply-To: andpph@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 01:17:55 GMT

In article <4872@daily-planet.concordia.ca>, honna@cs.concordia.ca (SEGEL honna) writes:
>In article <cHl-NG#@engin.umich.edu> Robert.Drongowski@cc.umich.edu (Robert Drongowski) writes:
>>I know one must take extreme measures in handling the film (refrigerated,
>>absolutely no light while loading/unloading film, etc).
>
>>BOB DRONGOWSKI,  Ann Arbor, Michigan
> 
>On the subject of film-handling... A friend of a friend once recently
>handed me a film cannister he had kept for eons in his fridge.  It turns
>out to be infra-red film with the usual warnings about "absolute darkness"
>printed on the cannister.  Trouble is, when he handed it to me he very 
>non-chalantly popped open the cannister to show me that there was, in fact,
>a roll of film inside.  So, now I would like to know if there is any chance
>that the film has any useful life left in it.  Should I bother rolling it 
>through my camera?  How do I know what kind of infra-red film it is - 
>assuming that there is more than one kind?  How will I know what processing
>it needs if I can't look at the cassette? etc.

I would suspect that some of the film is still ok assuming that it had
weathered the storage all right. If I had to guess I would use it at ISO 32
or so while shooting through a Wratten 25 filter. If you use the built in
camera meter then stick to ISO 125 or so.

Process as if it were Tri-X but for 25% or so longer times.

This is very loose I realize but it is how I would deal with situation short of
calling the Kodak Hot Line to get some more answers! 

andy
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au (Paul Repacholi)
Subject: Re: Canon Macro Lens Mount Converter FD-EOS
Organization: Curtin University of Technology
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 20:11:03 GMT

In article <1992Sep14.182507.9940@news.weeg.uiowa.edu>, goldis@news.weeg.uiowa.edu (Al Goldis) writes:
...
> I thought it would work with the "Macro Lens Mount Converter FD-EOS".
> There is another (non macro) FD to EOS converter for long lenses that
> is available only from Canon Professional Services.  The 200 macro
> lens is not one of the lenses listed as working with it.  Maybe that's
> the one you're thinking of.

The one I have the data for is for the big teles.

> 
> In the EOS System Accessories brochure it describes the Macro Lens
> Mount Converter as:
> 
>    This is an exclusive close-up-use mount converter which allows all
>    FD lenses, and also FD close-up accessories such as the Auto
>    Bellows and Photomicro Unit to be attached to EOS cameras.
>    Autofocus is not possible.  Manual exposure or stopped-down AE is
>    possible for exposure control.  Also, light metering considerations
>    require use of laser-matte type focusing screens.*
> 
>    * Macro ... Converter cannot be used with EOS cameras with fixed
>    focusing screens, including the EOS 10s, EOS Rebel/Rebel S, EOS
>    750, EOS 850, and EOS 700.
> 
> I would hope the 200 works with this converter.  If not, the least
> Canon could do is tell us.

I will beat on the cage and see what I can shake out. I enquired a few weeks
ago and was told that the 'long' converter was the only one avail.
Trouble is, this sort of stuff arrives in the dark of night, and is seldom
mentioned in the publicity noises. Lenses and cameras seem to be the only
thing that gets a mention now days...

~Paul
From: ajayshah@almaak.usc.edu (Ajay Shah)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Getting close without a macro lens (ext. tubes, closeup diopters, etc)
Date: 15 Sep 1992 11:39:02 -0700
Organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA
NNTP-Posting-Host: almaak.usc.edu

I was fishing for ways to get get better wild-flower pictures without
buying a Macro lens.

I had read of extension tubes.  I just talked with Nikon and they say
that the Nikon 6006 + Nikon 50mm AF lens will work with the extension
tubes, but you lose AF and all automatic exposure except aperture
priority.  FYI the options on Nikon extension tubes are PK11a (11mm),
PK12 (14mm) and PK13 (27mm).  They can be stacked together to go even
closer.  Adorama lists the PK11a and 12 for $45, the 13 for $47.

Have you used extension tubes?  How well do they work?  I believe they
are highly recommended for good optics (because they really do
nothing to the light).

The Nikon salesperson recommended "closeup diopters" using which I
could go closer, and retain AF and auto exposure modes.  He said there
are three options: 0 (#2732), 1 (#2733) and 2 (#2734) diopters.

What are these gizmos?  How do they work, and how well?  How much do they
cost?  I didn't see them listed in the back pages of popular photography.

Adorama also lists a lot of other toys under "close up accessories"
with numbers like PB-6, BR-4, PN-11, PC-3, etc.  What are these?

        -ans.
-- 
Ajay Shah, (213)749-8133, ajayshah@usc.edu
From: bn112@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Chris Katopis)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Film-To-Video Image Transfer Systems
Date: 8 Sep 1992 02:00:18 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


i want to convert my dad's home film movies to video.
I see ads for these conversion machines that hook up a
camcorder to a projector or something.  are these con-
traptions any good? any recommendations on brands, models?
-chris
Newsgroups: rec.photo