HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: bgbauer@watcgl.uwaterloo.ca (ben bauer)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: What's "telephoto ratio"
Date: 14 Sep 92 21:40:11 GMT
Article-I.D.: watcgl.BuL871.DBK
Distribution: na
Organization: University of Waterloo

In article <1992Sep14.162515.5660@cello.hpl.hp.com> jacobson@cello.hpl.hp.com (David Jacobson) writes:
>
>I was just looking at a Sigma ad and saw the following:
>
>    APO 1000mm F8 ZEN
>    World's first 1000mm autofocus lens.  Extremely
>    compact, telephoto ratio of 0.58.
>
>So what is "telephoto ratio"?
>
>  -- David Jacobson



Since "telephoto" means that the effective focal length (F) is longer than the 
physical lens length, the "telephoto ratio" is the ratio of
the physical length to the focal length, in this case, this would mean that
the 1000 APO is in fact about 58cm long.  580mm/1000mm = .58 

My brochure puts the 1000mm lens at about 54.5 cm length, so factoring 
in the mount and perhaps the over-estimation of focal length that
has been noted in this group, the calculation is about right... with a 
focal length of about 925mm which is about 10% short.

Telephoto ratio = lens length/F

Magnification ratio = (size of image on medium)/(real size)
                      if a 10cm image is rendered as 1cm on
                      the slide or negative then the magnification
                      is 1/10 life-size
                       or 1:10

Zoom ratio = (max F)/(min F)  - a 35-70 has a 
                            zoom ratio of 2
                           (as does a 100-200)
     Unfortunately zoom ratio is the game that camcorder
     manufacturers play.  They'll brag about an 8X zoom,
     zoom ratio = 8, but you need to dig a bit deeper to
     find out the focal length of the lens.  Both 7-56 and
     10-80 lenses are 8X zoom, but they will be quite different.

Of all of these, I find only the magnification ratio to be of much use.
From: kar@cs.rit.edu (Kenneth A Reek)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Film for making prints from slides
Date: 9 Sep 92 11:52:50 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology, Rochester, NY


	I have some slides that I want to make ordinary prints from.
Last time I tried this using my macro lens to get 1:1 reproduction,
the results were very contrasty.  Does anyone know of a print film
specifically intended for reproducing slides, or any print film
with low enough contrast to be useful to me?

	If all else fails, I'm going to try flashing the film prior to
exposure to try to reduce its contrast a little.
-- 
Kenneth A. Reek				kar@cs.rit.edu
Rochester Institute of Technology	rutgers!rochester!rit!kar
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: roberto@arrocha.charlotte.nc.us (Roberto Arrocha)
Subject: Re: Kodak CD picture and LDs
Keywords: Kodak Photo CD
Reply-To: roberto@arrocha.charlotte.nc.us
Organization: Roberto E. Arrocha
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 18:49:46 GMT

Anthony Edward Winfield writes
| 	I just saw on QVC no less a Kodak cd picture disc player. The
| thing cost on QVC about $450.  The thing also played reagular CD.
| What I want to know is, is this format of CD picture compatible with
| current Laser Disc players that play multi-size and multi format LDs
| and CDs?
|                                       Tone

The answer is no. To read Photo CD's you'll have to choose among the  
folling hardware:

Kodak Photo CD Player	->	TV
Phillips CD-I Player	->	TV
(Any) CD ROM XA drive	->	Computer

The interesting hardware here, are the XA drives. Note, that these drives  
must read Mode-2 data disks, as the Photo CD. Mode-2 drives allow  
multi-session read/write. This feature allows you to add images to the  
Photo CD (up to 100 images). Just bring the CD to your processing lab and  
they will add the new images for you.

Processing:
Input format:			35mm negatives or slides
Max. number of of images / CD:	100
Image processing cost:		$1.20ea (as advertised by Kodak)
				$1.79ea	(KODALUX)
-- 
Roberto
NeXTmail: roberto@arrocha.charlotte.nc.us
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: mkuhn@news.weeg.uiowa.edu (Martin W Kuhn)
Subject: Re: Zenit - E
Organization: University of Iowa, Iowa City, IA, USA
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 1992 21:34:12 GMT

In article <1992Sep5.074944.16180@sfu.ca> forman@fraser.sfu.ca (Pamela Catherine Forman) writes:
>I just got a 35mm cammera that was made in the USSR.  It is a Zenit-E
>with a Helio S-44-2 2/58 lens.  It seems to be automatic (or semi) and
...
>test roll can anyone tell me anything about this wee beastie.  (Yes,
Well, the Zenit E is a fairly common russian SLR, and is the current
version of the vererable Zenit (I think so, anyway)   I don't think it
has any sort of auto exposure. (It is very difficult to have autoexposure
on a screw-mount camera-- it has been done, however)  Heck, I think the
Zenit hasn't even gotten as far as the  non-rotating shutter speed dial!
It does have a coupled meter, however.
This camera is also the same as the Cambron SLR (the house brand of 
Cambridge Camera We-don't-Exchange :-)  Or perhaps that's a different
version of the Zenit.
According to the current McKeown's Guide, the Zenit is made by
Krasnogorsk Mechanical Factory ("KMZ") in Krasnogorsk, USSR., and says
"Zenit E, EM-- metered versions of the Zenit.  Helios-44 f2/58mm normal
lens.  Common in Europe, where they sell with difficulty at $35-50."
It also lists a black version called the ET, and a special version with
tele lens and gunstock attachment called the Zenit Photo Sniper...

>it has been suggested that it was a waste of $25.  I wouldn't be
>suprised, but boy it's fun!)
> 
Well, mechanical clunkers like the Zenit are fun.  However, if you were
thinking of using it for more serious purposes, you should be warned that
Soviet cameras are not very reliable in general, so be careful.  You should
be able to get $25 worth of fun out of it though!  :-)

                         --Marty


Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: rspeirs@javelin.sim.es.com (Ron Speirs)
Subject: Re: Mail ordering film, paper and chemicals -- Safe?
Organization: Evans & Sutherland Computer Corporation
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 20:50:21 GMT

In article <68161@hydra.gatech.EDU> gg10@prism.gatech.EDU (GALLOWAY) writes:
>How safe and reliable is it to mail order film, paper and processing chemicals?
>
>Greg Galloway

I've ordered film (usually bulk rolls) from B&H in New York several times;
best prices, no problems.  Freestyle in Los Angeles has good bargains on
paper.  Again, no problems.  Shipping charges on liquid processing chemicals
might offset mailorder savings, so be sure to compare local prices.  I get
liquid chemicals (rapid fixer, acetic acid, etc.) locally.  And for getting
basic chemicals to mix your own solutions, you will have to get them mail-
order; unless you live in a big city, they are hard to find.  Try Zone V
(S. Strafford VT), Lauder (Rancho Cordova, CA), Tri-Ess (Burbank, CA), 
Photographers Formulary (Missoula, MT), Fluka (Ronkonkoma, NY).  Shipping
regulations force some chemicals into categories which require extra,
expensive packaging.  For these, buying locally would definitely be in
order.

Ron Speirs, Evans & Sutherland Computer Corp., Salt Lake City, Utah

Xref: sparky rec.photo:15779 rec.backcountry:6920
From: gsnow@clark.edu (Gary Snow)
Newsgroups: rec.photo,rec.backcountry
Subject: Re: What tripod do you use when backpacking?
Date: 8 Sep 92 23:39:08 GMT
Article-I.D.: clark.1992Sep8.233908.17427
Organization: Clark College, Vancouver, Wa.  USA

In article <lapv16INN9u2@almaak.usc.edu> ajayshah@almaak.usc.edu (Ajay Shah) writes:
>
>The title says it all. ("What tripod do you use when backpacking?")

A light one.....:-)

>What is a good tradeoff between weight and stability?
>
>The worst lens it will be used with is the Sigma 400 APO AF.

You might want to look at some of the Velbons.  They are farly light, sturdy,
and don't cost too much. You might also consider just gettign a monopod,
they come in real handy all the time, and aren't bulky or heavy.

Gary

-- 
-----
Gary Snow
uunet!clark!gsnow  or  gsnow@clark.edu
From: forman@fraser.sfu.ca (Pamela Catherine Forman)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Zenit-E info. Thanks!
Date: 13 Sep 92 06:55:27 GMT
Organization: Simon Fraser University, Burnaby, B.C., Canada

Many thanks to all who e-mailed me and posted here regarding the
Zenit-E.  I apparently have a manual on its way to me too!!!  :)

I did find that many pix on my test roll were overexposed, as was
predicted, but I think I can deal with that now.  

Thank you all, once again!!
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: tjlow@ntuvax.ntu.ac.sg
Subject: Nikon FE2: Isn't it good? Why discontinued?
Organization: Nanyang Technological University - Singapore
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1992 01:56:36 GMT

Nikon FE2 seems to be a good model. 

I have hear that some people who owns FM2, decided to switch to FE2.

How good is it?

Does anyone knows why was it discontinued? 


- Toong-Jye.
From: johno@sdd.hp.com (John Ongtooguk)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Info. about the Sigma 28-70/f 3.5-4.5
Date: 9 Sep 1992 20:28:47 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, San Diego Division
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: hpsdlg10.sdd.hp.com

In article <1992Sep5.013033.1941@walter.bellcore.com>, jchen@flash.bellcore.com (Jason Chen) writes:
|> 
|> Upon writing this, one question stikes me: why there is no third-pary
|> camera manufacturer to build Nikon/Canon compatible cameras? For budget-
|> oriented people like myself, saving money on camera body would make more
|> sense than saving money on lenses. 

   Vivitar sold a body for awhile (still does ?) but I don't know what
   kind of mount it had. I suspect that it is easier to cut corners
   on a lens than on a body as it will be less noticeable to most
   people. The differences are matters of degree, and may not be apparent 
   on poorly processed small color prints, while a number of camera
   functions are work/don't work. 
      
   John Ongtooguk (johno@sdd.hp.com)
Organization: Doctoral student, Engineering and Public Policy, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Date: Tue,  8 Sep 1992 12:42:51 -0400 
From: Luis Abdon Cifuentes <lc0v+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Nikon Photo School: is it good?

Hello netters, 

 I just received a brochure about the Nikon Photo School. It will be in
town this weekend, so I wanted to know if somebody has attended it and
has  comments about it. Being a graduate student, I have very good uses
for $75, so I want to know if the thing is worth it before trying it.

Thanks in advance,

Luis
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: markm@wri.com
Subject: Re: New Canon mentioned on CBS This Morning
Reply-To: markm@wri.com
Organization: Wolfram Research, Inc.
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 15:29:15 GMT

In article <1992Sep9.192416.1@acad3.alaska.edu> fsjfz@acad3.alaska.edu writes:
> In article <BuC5Mp.A16@cup.hp.com>, pdg@cup.hp.com (Paul Gootherts) writes:
> 
> > They said it's able to focus on "what the photographer is looking at".
> > They didn't say what that means.  They also said it is expected to sell
> 

I saw the story too.  They said that the camera uses two small laser-beams to  
determine what the photographer is looking at.  I guess these lasers would  
shoot out through the viewfinder and reflect off your eyeball, giving the  
camera some sort of clue as to what corner of the viewfinder your staring at.

I don't know if it'll work or not.

--Mark
From: mrt7455@evtprp0b (Michael R Tucker)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Which camera for $200
Date: 8 Sep 92 19:36:37 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: evt_bcs

I am open to suggestion as to what brand and make of camera to buy.  I
am looking for something that would be less that $200 for body and
lense.  Automatic focussing is not important but SLR and
interchangeable lenses is important.  I can go thru mail order or buy
from a local dealer.  What do you suggest?
Xref: sparky rec.photo:15689 misc.forsale:25616
From: ajayshah@almaak.usc.edu (Ajay Shah)
Newsgroups: rec.photo,misc.forsale
Subject: Vivitar AF slide projector forsale
Date: 7 Sep 1992 22:24:04 -0700
Organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA
NNTP-Posting-Host: almaak.usc.edu

Would you be interested in buying a Slide projector?

It's a Vivitar AF-3000, auto-focus with (corded) remote.  Including 2 
extra trays and two extra spare bulbs (never blown one yet :-), I'm
asking $120.  It's < a year old.

        -ans.


-- 
Ajay Shah, (213)749-8133, ajayshah@usc.edu
From: rune@cimsand.UUCP (Rune Riisnaes)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Slave Flash Photography?
Date: 9 Sep 92 16:09:00 GMT
Organization: Cimage A.S, Sandvika, Norway.
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4

boh@fraser.sfu.ca (Changhao Boh) writes:
: rune@cimsand.UUCP (Rune Riisnaes) writes:
: >If I don't have control over subject position, like when doing candids,
: >I rely on a flash diffuser (Lumiquest SoftBox or a Micro Apollo),
: >and have the flash mounted on a bracket high above the camera.  It works
: >reasonable well.

: Hi, I am just wondering about the "Flash mounted high" stuff...
: 
: I have read in Shuttle bugs some advertisments for some unsual flash mounting
: brackets, I wonder if you use those to moust your flash high.
: 
: Also, when you mount your flash high, don't you get shadows below the eyes and
: noses ?

I use a Lindahl flip bracket (I don't remember the part number at the moment)
that allows the flash to be held above the camera both with horizontal
and vertical shots.  With direct flash I *do* get shadows under eye, nose and
chin, which is why I always use as large a diffuser/softbox as the situation
allows.  This reduces the shadow to an (for me) acceptable level.

If I can control the subject, like when doing portraits, properly placed
reflectors works great.

-- 
Rune Riisnaes    E-mail: rune@cimage.no, rune@cimage.com, rune@cimsand.uucp
                 Cimage A.S,  Skytterdalen 6,  N-1300 Sandvika,  Norway.
                 Phone: (47-2) 54 90 40   Fax: (47-2) 54 58 40
From: pojee@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Cokin filters !!!
Date: 13 Sep 92 01:50:08 GMT
Reply-To: pojee@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu ()
Distribution: usa
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin, Austin TX
Originator: pojee@happy.cc.utexas.edu


 Hi network readers,
 
                Just few days back I bought Cokin filter holder and
        the adaptor ring. I want to order the FLW filter and close up
	filter (103) +3D. Do you have any idea that how is the optical 
	quality of these filters.

		Your resonse will be greatly apprecited.


						Pankaj Bishnoi.


Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: dp@world.std.com (Jeff DelPapa)
Subject: Re: High speed useful ? (was Re: Nikon N90 technobabble)
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 04:00:23 GMT

The leaf shutters do give you full speed synch, but they aren't a
universal panecea - the fastest commercial leaf shutters now available
are just now aproaching the 1/1000 figure (the newest Rollie lenses
have them), and you do have to contend with "shutter efficiency" -
requiring you to adjust your exposure to compensate for the blade
opening times, and adjustment that depends on the speed selected and
the aperature (the number on the ring is usually the effective speed
at full aperature - at small aperatures and high speeds, the effective
exposure can be as much as one stop greater)...

Sample table  - each shutter is different so measure your own...
from old kodak data - amount is how much compensation is needed.

marked speed	f5.6	f8	f11	f16 and greater
1/125		none	none	none	-1/3 stop
1/250		none	none	-1/3	-2/3 stop
1/500		none	-1/3	-2/3	-1 stop


As to the long duration flashes - I declined to buy the Olympus one
(despite having a compatible camera) - in long duration mode it is
pretty wimpy, tho the bigger problem was their particular
implementation - the flash they made didn't tilt or swivel, and you
couldn't use it off camera in the super duration mode - the off camera
cables only allowed regular ttl autoflash. The nikon one as an
extension of the -24, presumably has tilt and swivel and will
hopefully have an off camera cable...

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: raju@cs.UAlberta.CA (Raju Patil)
Subject: SB-24 Vs SB-22 ???
Organization: University of Alberta, Edmonton, Canada
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 18:15:44 GMT

 Hi,
    
   I am going for a Nikon N8008s body. I would appreciate suggestions
   about a flash to buy. The SB-22 seems a to be a good, reasonably
   priced flash (115 US). As far as i can see, the SB-24 ($260 US)
   has the following extra features:
   1: Guide number 36 as opposed to 25 for the SB-22.
   2: Manual control: output controllable to 1/16, /8 etc of full output.
   3: Horizontal rotation of head (SWIVEL).

   I don't think feature No:2 is of any use to me (an amateur shooting
   mostly sceneries and people ... might start close up photography)
   Do the features 1 and 2 count for much ... i.e. will they be used 
   a lot ? 
  
   Secondly ... are both flashes similar in terms of having 
   Matrix fill flash and do both change angle of discharge based
   on the setting of the zoom lens (auto zoom)?

 Please suggest.
 Thanks
 Raju
From: terst1+@pitt.edu (Timothy E Rapp)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Info on Better wide angle
Date: 14 Sep 92 14:05:54 GMT
Distribution: world,local
Organization: University of Pittsburgh

In article <11SEP92160410@oolong.hacks.arizona.edu> paulf@oolong.hacks.arizona.edu writes:
>
> [text about low-end SLR's ie. Rebel, 3xi, etc]
>
>Also, they tend to break easily and don't stand up to abuse well.
>           ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

My Rebel has been dropped more than once with narry a scratch, and has 
continued to provide flawless operation.

How about sharing your source, and providing some substantial statistics.

-Tim
From: tonyp@cs.umr.edu (Tony Phillips)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Some questions...
Date: 13 Sep 92 20:56:02 GMT
Organization: University of Missouri - Rolla
Originator: tonyp@mcs213j.cs.umr.edu


Hello.  I am new to this newsgroup.  I would like to ask a couple of questions, so if they have been answered recently, please forgive the redundencies.

1)  I'm interested in going to Bulk loaded films (C-41/E-6).  Does anyone sell
    DX coded bulk-cassettes?  Or, has anyone thought of selling "stickers" to
    place on cans to make them DX capable?

2)  Does anyone have a quick-reference chart of film designations?  In looking
    through mail-order catologues, they only advertise films such as "EPP 100'"
    instead of mentioning the kind of film it is.  

3)  Will processing labs return film canisters if asked in the "Special
    instructions" box to do so?

4)  Is the E-6 Hobby pack economical/easy to use?


Please respond to my e-mail account listed below, or S102066@UMRVMA.UMR.EDU
(I'm not sure if my .sig is working, so my email addr. is tonyp@cs.umr.edu)

Thanks!
From: jack@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk (Jack Campin)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: view cameras in foul weather
Date: 11 Sep 92 13:38:04 GMT
Organization: Glasgow University Computing Science Dept.

Does anyone have any clever tricks for using view cameras (or anything
water-sensitive that requires time and a tripod, for that matter) in rain
and wind?  Particularly if you're alone, without an assistant to hold an
umbrella?

In particular, does anyone make a light and useful pitchable windbreak? -
pitching a tent over the camera is usually going to be overkill.  (Murphy's
law says the interesting picture is then going to be directly windward; oh
well).

...idly wondering if there any recorded instance of a tripod-mounted camera
being struck by lightning...

-- 
--  Jack Campin    room G092, Computing Science Department, Glasgow University,
17 Lilybank Gardens, Glasgow G12 8RZ, Scotland   TEL: 041 339 8855 x6854 (work)
INTERNET: jack@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk or via nsfnet-relay.ac.uk    FAX: 041 330 4913
BANG!net: via mcsun and uknet     BITNET: via UKACRL    UUCP: jack@glasgow.uucp
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jacobson@cello.hpl.hp.com (David Jacobson)
Subject: Re: Distance info on EF lenses...
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 04:42:00 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories

In article <2598@tau-ceti.isc-br.com> jimc@tau-ceti.isc-br.com (Jim Cathey) writes:
>In article <1992Sep6.044401.1@cc.curtin.edu.au> zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au (Paul Repacholi) writes:
>>There have been coments to the effect that the Nikon D series lenses are
>>the first to provide distance info to the camera body. Not so. The EF Canon
>>lenses have always done this to support the Depth-of-Field mode on EOS models.
>
>I don't think they need distance to do this.  After all, the system focuses
>with a stepper motor.  They only need to count the steps between near and
>far focusing points in order to find the middle, and the aperture...
>
>Hmm, maybe they _do_ need the distance.  Any takers?

I don't think they need distance info at all to get a DOF mode.  The
AF sensor directly tells them the distance the image is behind or in
front of the film plane.  All they have to do is make the two points
be out of focus by equal amounts in opposite directions.

Now if they allow you to first focus on one point, then the other
(rather than both at the same time using different sensors), they need
to be able to set the lens to some precise point.  But if their motor
has any kind of calibration that would do it.  "It was 16
steps/pulses/whatevers in getting the near to far points in focus.
Now go to near + 8."  (The optimum point is alway half way between at
the film end of the lens.)  Note that even this requires only relative
positioning info.

  -- David Jacobson
From: phr@soda.berkeley.edu (Paul Rubin)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Telephoto zoom lens recommendations wanted
Date: 13 Sep 92 00:14:49 GMT
Organization: CSUA/UCB
NNTP-Posting-Host: soda.berkeley.edu
In-reply-to: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au's message of Sat, 12 Sep 1992 08:27:52 GMT


    If it is quality you are after,go for the 100-300, or save some
    more for the 100-300L, which will blow all the others into the
    weeds. Don't take too much notice of APO or the like, made in
    marketing, and pretty meaningless, except as a means of
    differentiating different models. Microscope lenses seem to be the
    only ones that 'apo' has any real meaning nowdays. :-(

Apochromatic process lenses are not too uncommon.  There are also
some apo view camera lenses.  All the ones I've seen have front-back
symmetry but I don't know if this is necessary to an apo design.