HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: larryba@polstra.UUCP (Larry Barello)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Yeastie Beasties!
Date: 10 Apr 92 16:38:56 GMT
Organization: Polstra & Co., Seattle, WA

In article <1924@transfer.stratus.com> (Jeff Scott) writes:
>...
>and the others stay submerged. The only other thing that I did  
>differently is that in the first batch I just pitched the dry yeast  
>into the 80 degree wort and the second two I started the yeast in som  
>80 degree water and then added that. does re-hydrated yeast not make  
>as much foam as does just pitching dry yeast??
>
From observations of my own brewing, pitching dry yeast directly into 
the chilled wort produced faster starts and more vigorous ferments than
"proofing" the yeast in either water or starter wort.

I know that my observation is contrary to the popular recommendations.

Cheers!
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: steve@rtfm.mlb.fl.us (Steve Pierce)
Subject: Re: Cats Meow Volume 2 (uuencoded, split, compressed) part 3 of 3
Organization: We don't need no stinkin' batches!
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 20:50:20 GMT

richard@pegasus.com (Richard Foulk) writes:

>With regards to the recent posting of `Cats Meow Volumes 1 & 2', volume
>1 can be discarded.  It is superceded by volume 2 (more accurately the
>second edition).

>As the introduction in the second edition says; ``it contains every
>recipe that was in the first volume ...''

Yes, but there is other info in Volume 1 that may be of interest (a section
for beginning brewing, the mail order supply list).
-- 
===========================================
Steve Pierce             Palm Bay
steve@rtfm.mlb.fl.us     Florida
===========================================
From: gak@gakbox.Corp.Sun.COM (Richard Stueven)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Anyone like Monterey Brewing Company?
Date: 7 Apr 92 19:49:33 GMT
Reply-To: gak@gakbox.Corp.Sun.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
NNTP-Posting-Host: gakbox.corp.sun.com

In article 12012@ucdavis.ucdavis.edu, krweiss@ucdavis.edu () writes:
>In article <ku146kINN6q@jethro.Corp.Sun.COM> gak@gakbox.Corp.Sun.COM (Richard
>Stueven) writes:
>>had a substance that I couldn't identify.  It looked like a mixture of
>>shredded tobacco and chopped mushrooms, and it smelled just like this
>>off-flavor.
>
>It sounds like unprocessed Irish Moss, aka dried seaweed shreds. Was it dark
>brown, smooth and kind of fibrous?

Someone else suggested the same thing.  I've never seen unprocessed
Irish Moss, but the description seems to match, so you're probably
right.

When used properly, Irish Moss shouldn't contribute any flavors to the
beer, right?

---
Richard Stueven       AHA# 22584 |----------| 
Internet:       gak@Corp.Sun.COM |----GO----| Disclaimer:  I'm not allowed
ATTMAIL:         ...!attmail!gak |---SHARX--|              to have opinions.
Cow Palace: Sec 107 Row F Seat 9 |----------| 
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: martin@hfglobe.UUCP (martin wilde)
Subject: Sulfur smell during ferment
Organization: Development Tools Operation, Intel Corp., Hillsboro  OR
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 92 22:50:56 GMT

Since this is the first lager I have brewed I don't know what to expect.
I am noticing a sulfur smell from my fermentation.  I am using Wyeast
2206 Bavarian Lager.  I pitched a large healthy amount of yeast and 
fermenting at 44 degrees.  The yeast quickly took off and has just passed 
high krausen (I replaced the blow-off with an airlock).  The smell is
not overwhelming, just noticeable.  

Has anyone else noticed this???

thanks in advance....
martin@daw_302.hf.intel.com
                          
                  _/_          |
 ______  __.  __  /  o ____    |  uunet!intelhf!daw_302!martin
/ / / <_(_/|_/ (_<__<_/ / <    |
From: klett@ghill.enet.dec.com (Michael Klett)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Bock Beer (Recipe included)
Date: 10 Apr 92 18:46:28 GMT
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation


Back in January I had posted questions about Bock Beer and said that I was
going to be brewing a kit that I had gotten for Christmas.  I also promised
to post results...

I've finally starting quaffing this beer - it seems to keep improving as it
ages in the bottle but is very tasty already.  It is good heavy (tends towards
the chewy side) brew with lots of flavor.  It definately holds its own against
pizza :-).  I'm not a beer judge at all (beer is sort of like art - I don't
know if its good or not but I know what I like).  It has an interesting effect
that a friend of mine pointed out with my Pale Ale (Mike's Pale Ale).  When
you take a sip you are rewarded with a great flavored beer.  However, as soon
as the swallowing motion is complete - there is no after taste at all - you
might have just swallowed water!  I'm finding that I prefer this since most
beers that I don't like (Heiniken comes to mind) have horrible after taste.
When guests notice this effect I smile, shrug, and say, "Well, thats how
FRESH beer is supposed to be."  Can anyone explain this?

Thanks,
Mike

PS:  here is the recipe (the ingrediants are all from the "True Brew Maestro
Series BOCK (American Style)" kit).  I didn't quite follow their directions
though 8-).

=================================  Snip Here  ==================================

BOCK (American Style)

Ingrediants:			Qty:
M & F Dark Malt Extract 	2 Cans (3.3 lbs ea)
Pale Grain			1/2 lb
Chocolate Grain			1/4 lb
Crystal Malt			1/4 lb
Hallertau Hop Pellets		1 oz
Tettnang Hop Pellets		1 oz
Red Star Lager Beer Yeast	1 packet
Corn Sugar			3/4 Cup

Procedure:
 1 - Roast Pale Grain @350 degrees F for 10 minutes	       (13:30 12-Jan-92)
 2 - Bring grains to boil in 2 cups water, 1/4 lb at a time.
 3 - Strain grain water into brewpot and add water to 1 1/2 gallons.
 4 - Add Malt Extracts and Hallertau Hops.
 5 - Boil for 45 minutes.
 6 - Add Tettnang Hops and boil for 1 minute.
 7 - Pour into 3 1/3 gallons of cold water and let settle for a while.
 8 - Syphon into fermenter leaving trub behind.
 9 - Pitch yeast and shake vigorously.		               (17:30 12-Jan-92)
10 - Lager @ 50 - 55 degrees F.
11 - Rack to Secondary.				               (20:00 29-Jan-92)
12 - Boil sugar in 1 Cup water, bulk prime, and bottle.	       (13:00 16-Feb-92)

Notes:
Used True Brew Maestro Series BOCK (American Style).
Original Gravity - 1.050 (1.044 @ 82 degrees F) - should have been 1.054.
Gravity into secondary (step 10) - 1.010 (1.012 @ 50 degrees F).
5.5% alcohol (6.8 - 1.3)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: kludge@grissom.larc.nasa.gov ( Scott Dorsey)
Subject: Re: brewing in aluminum?
Organization: NASA Langley Research Center And Storm Door Company
Distribution: rec
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1992 13:54:36 GMT

In article <1992Apr16.181941.11773@vax5.cit.cornell.edu> o6y@vax5.cit.cornell.edu writes:
>
>Does anybody out there know the reason why beer should not be
>mashed/brewed in aluminum pots?

Aluminum is easily picked up by an acid solution, and dissolved aluminum can
impart a slightly metallic taste to the beer.  Some people have reported not
having any problem with it, although I can definitely taste the difference.
You might try it yourself and see.

There was some early correllative studies (not causal studies) showing that
Alzheimers patients had aluminum buildup in certain nerve cells, but this has
since been shown to be due to a breakdown of a process that removes aluminum,
and there is no evidence to show that aluminum would cause or accellerate the
course of the disease.  So don't worry about it.
--scott
From: o6y@vax5.cit.cornell.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: brewing in aluminum?
Date: 16 Apr 92 18:19:41 EDT
Distribution: rec
Organization: Cornell University

 

Does anybody out there know the reason why beer should not be
mashed/brewed in aluminum pots?



Ben
From: dvac@druwa.ATT.COM (Daniel Vachon)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Thanks for HBD 854/859!
Date: 14 Apr 92 17:03:06 GMT
Distribution: rec

Thanks to the folks who responsed to my plea for a couple lost HBD issues
(854 and 859)!    

-Dan
From: richard@pegasus.com (Richard Foulk)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: more malting
Date: 16 Apr 92 01:35:09 GMT
Organization: Pegasus,  Honolulu

A little over a month ago I posted asking about malting.  Lots of good
information has flowed in since then.  There's still a lot of experimenting
to do, but it seems to be working fairly well.

(Someone sent me a list of kilning temperatures for different styles of
malt, which I've misplaced.  I'd appeciate it if whoever sent it would
please send it again.  Or post it, there are a number of others that
are interested.)

The real breakthrough came when I switched from an initial soak of two
days to two hours.  The whole barley from the local feedstore seems to
be almost 100% viable using this approach.  Without attempts to slow
things down the malt goes to full modification in less than three days.

My first brew from home-malted barley is underway now.  This was also
my first all-grain brew, so lots to learn here.  The mash seemed to
work as expected, things got nice and sweet as they're supposed to.
The wort is quite cloudy, perhaps due to a very poor crush, but looks
are the least of my worries at this point.

The wort smells good and the yeast seems to love it.

I have a few unanswered questions that I was hoping someone else in
netville might be able to shed some light on.  BTW, many of the details
of commercial malting operations don't seem to apply to home-malting or
feedstore barley.

 * Is the main purpose of kilning, for light malts, simply to add color
    and a slightly different flavor to the brew?  Or does it play some
    other important role?  I've heard it said that it stops the malting
    process, but drying seems to do that quite well.

 * Is there something that I can safely mix with the steep water that
    will retard bacteria growth (keep the grain from going sour)
    without adversely affecting the malt?  (I currently do a lot of
    rinsing after the steep, every few hours or so, but this seems to
    speed up the sprouting process more than is preferrable.)

 * Is there an easy way to remove the roots from the grain?  Is it really
    necessary to bother?

Some have said that feedstore barley has the wrong protein content for
making beer.  I don't buy this.  It may be inappropriate for some
styles of beer, or for making light beers.  Those issues simply don't
matter at this point.

Any and all info and pointers on home malting are most appreciated.


-- 
Richard Foulk		richard@pegasus.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: dms2@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Darewood Michael Steinhoff)
Subject: double stout questions
Originator: dms2@csd4.csd.uwm.edu
Organization: Computing Services Division, University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1992 08:23:09 GMT

hey guys,
       whats happeing??? i have a semi-novice question for you guys.
i brewed up a batch of double stout this past weeekend took a reading of
1.060 for SG is this good or bad i am unsure as the receipe did not have any
spec, got it from cats meow 2. the primary ferment was 3 days at about 60-65
degrees and the secondary is happening now for about 10-12 days. any helpful
hints or suggestions??? also i notice that in my carboy there are particles
suspended in the beer(wort), we didn't strain should we b-4 bottling or just
wait until it settles.

thanks in advance.

-- 
'it's 106 miles  to chicago,we got a full tank of gas,
half a pack of cigarettes, it's dark, and we're wearing sunglasses.'
'hit it'
-Jake and Elwood Blues                 please send email to dms2@csd4.uwm.edu
From: cav@bnr.ca (Rick Cavasin)
Subject:  Hydrogen peroxide as sterilant? 
Reply-To: cav@bnr.ca (Rick Cavasin)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Thu, 09 Apr 92 23:42:49 GMT

Another question for the gurus:

Our local grocery store has begun to carry an enviromentally
friendly Hydrogen peroxide bleach for about the same price as
the regular chlorine bleach.  Being the enviromentally friendly
sort, I'd rather use something a little milder than clorox if
I can.  Does anyone know the relative effectiveness of hydrogen
peroxide compared to chlorine bleach vis sterilizing brewing
equipment ?

Thanks in advance
Rick Cavasin
From: cmilono@netcom.com (Carlo Milono)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: CO2/Alcohol production
Date: 9 Apr 92 22:25:53 GMT
Article-I.D.: netcom.vdsjlp#.cmilono
Organization: Netcom - Somewhere in the S.F. Bay Area


I was revisiting Dave Miller's book last night, as I find that I can
almost always find something that I have overlooked in my understanding
of the brewing process (Noonan's book is good for that as well).
I must have read the same paragraph before, but never paused to think
about it.  It seems that O2 is necessary for the yeast to produce CO2,
and that in the absence of O2, the only byproduct of yeast metabolism is
alcohol, rather than alcohol *and* CO2.

Now, when you boil your wort, you basically divest it of any O2, and
hence must introduce O2 at the time of pitching the yeast, or you might
get a stuck fermentation.  That has always made sense to me.

However, O2 gets depleted rather rapidly, and the bubbles seem to slow
as the fermentation nears completion - again that makes sense.  When
the fermentation is complete (or at the appropriate Terminal Specific
Gravity), you prime and bottle - and throughout all racking, you do your
utmost to exclude O2 for oxidation purposes.  Now, if I have done a
perfect job of excluding O2, just how can the yeast produce carbonation
in the bottle?  Wouldn't the cells just convert the 'new' sugar into
alcohol, producing a lower gravity/higher alcohol FLAT beer?  

I just might make a pint of wort and rack it into a bottle that has been
filled with CO2 - or architect some method of excluding O2 from the wort,
then pitch...I suspect a very, very sluggish ferment, but (according to the
above logic) I would expect a flat alcoholic beverage;  I could probably
seal the container - no fermentation lock;  of course, I would place this
bottle in a bomb-proof safe, just to be sure  :)

Could the lack of O2 have caused more than some flat beers found in 
homebrewing??
-- 
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
|            Carlo Milono:  cmilono@netcom.com                             |
|      "The Sun ain't Yellow: it's Chicken!" - Bob Dylan                   |
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
From: jdr@wang.com (Joe Rolfe)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Irish Moss use
Date: 17 Apr 92 16:22:23 GMT
Organization: Wang Labs, Lowell MA, USA

Whilst on a trip to Canada recently (to Le Cheval Blanc)
I was shown how they use Irish Moss.

	start mash and measure the amount (.75 oz/US BBL)
	  (use only the raw flake type, no breakbrite or whatever)

	put it in a quantity of lukewarm water (100 F) or so
	  (enough to cover and allow for it to absorb)

	leave it for hours (3-5 hours or so)	

	drain off excess water, mix to a gelatin like texture
	  (at this point it looks damn gross)

	the application of the mixture is used after the heat on the kettle
	  is turned off, and during the whirlpool process.

A very different way of using compared to what the package says.
I was told that the moss losses some of it effects during boiling.
I have not tried it yet on my homebrews but plan on giving it a shot.

Anyone comments from long time users, variations....

Thanx
Joe
From: eebonar@sn01.sncc.lsu.edu (DAVID BONAR)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Cat's Meow
Date: 8 Apr 92 00:05:07 GMT
Article-I.D.: cs.1992Apr7.230805.26821
Reply-To: eebonar@sn01.sncc.lsu.edu
Organization: News and Views from LSU
Nntp-Posting-Host-[nntpd-16377]: sn01.sncc.lsu.edu
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.3-4


	Sorry to bother the net but I'm out of other ideas.

	I'm interested in getting Cat's Meow II.  However, I can't decode
uuencoded things and I have found that the uncompression program on the VAX
will not sucessfully uncompress the Cats.Meow.Z files (or whatever their
real name is) from mthvax.cs.miami.edu.

	I believe this was mentioned before on the net.  If so, could someone
email the solution.  Otherwise, any ideas are appreciated.

Dave 
__________
Dave Bonar
eebonar@lsuvax.sncc.lsu.edu
Go Astro's  [motto: More Bang for the buck (but still a little short)]
__________
From: tdenny@rigel.cs.pdx.edu (Tom Denny)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Aquarium thermometers/hydrometers -- NOT!
Date: 6 Apr 92 17:26:58 GMT
Article-I.D.: pdxgate.5257

homebrew-request@hpfcmi.fc.hp.com (Verify address before sending) writes:


>    The normal range of specific gravities for marine aquaria is about 1.020
>    to 1.024, so I doubt the hydrometer you saw will have a range useful for
>    brewing.  I also don't think the thermometer would have a range much
>    more than 65 to 95 degrees fahrenheit (typical fish-keeping temps).

>    -- Keith

  One thing You might beware of is the thermometer. My brother and I tried
using one for our carboys (to see if we could easily read what the temp.
was at all times w/o exposing the beer to air) After about 2 weeks the 
thermometer was toast completely didnt work (we bought the top o the line
thermometer for the testing). I don't know why this was (we didnt move
or bang the carboy around). 

      Peace
       Dan

Dan Denny	tdenny@rigel.CS.PDX.EDU	         "Nothing left to do but   
CIS: 		73737, 624	      	           Smile, Smile, Smile"
From: gak@gakbox.Corp.Sun.COM (Richard Stueven)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: r.c.b's purpose? (was Re: Anyone like Montery Brewing Company?)
Date: 7 Apr 92 21:49:37 GMT
Reply-To: gak@gakbox.Corp.Sun.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
NNTP-Posting-Host: gakbox.corp.sun.com

In article 1970@transfer.stratus.com, jsco@buzzardroost.az.stratus.com (Jeff Scott) writes:
>In article <ku3igvINN3q8@jethro.Corp.Sun.COM> gak@gakbox.Corp.Sun.COM  
>(Richard Stueven) writes:
>[]Is there a better place to discuss breweries
>[]and their beers than rec.crafts.BREWING?
>[]
>Not to be a picky SOB, but this newsgroup usually deals with the  
>recreational craft/hobby of brewing ones own beverages. [...]
>As for  
>commercial breweries, I don't buy their beer, I don't care what they make  
>(unless it's exquisite any you maybe have a recipe for it), I drink what I  
>brew!

Sorry about the tone of my previous post...it sounded a bit nastier
than I intended.

Anyhow, I agree with your first statement in that the postings here are
usually from hobbyists discussing their hobby.  The scope of the
newsgroup, though, is "brewing" and not simply "homebrewing".  I submit
that there is much we can learn from the commercial breweries,
_especially_ the microbreweries (also known as "craft breweries", as in
rec."crafts.brewing"), that we can apply to our own beers.

The start of this thread was an observation by a now-forgotten* brewpub
patron and homebrewer who noticed a nasty flavor in a brewpub beer and
wanted to find out what it was.  By getting this information, he just
might be able to apply what he's learned to his beer to avoid that same
problem.  By sharing this information via r.c.b, we all just might be
able to do the same.

Posting information on breweries we've visited and beers we've tasted
should be seen as valuable to all, in that we can learn more about
various procedures and ingredients.  If someone finds an exceptional
beer and can post a recipe or ingredient list or even a reasonable
description of the flavor and color and body of the beer, we
homebrewers can try to duplicate it and probably even improve on it.

So here's my opinion in a nutshell:  as long as it has to do with beer,
r.c.b is an appropriate venue.  Splitting this sort of hair is the
reason we finally moved from rec.food.drink in the first place.

Besides, like I said, I don't receive alt.beer.

Doon yer neck!  (Traditional Scottish toast)
---
Richard Stueven       AHA# 22584 |----------| Gloom, despair, and agony on me,
Internet:       gak@Corp.Sun.COM |----GO----| deep dark depression, excessive
ATTMAIL:         ...!attmail!gak |---SHARX--| misery, if it weren't for bad luck
Cow Palace: Sec 107 Row F Seat 9 |----------| I'd have no luck at all...

* Read:  Sorry, pal, I've forgotten your name already!
From: mrb@cbnewsj.cb.att.com (m..bruncati)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Red Bank Brewing Supply Store
Keywords: Red Bank Brewing Supply Address
Date: 16 Apr 92 14:16:53 GMT
Article-I.D.: cbnewsj.1992Apr16.141653.16501
Distribution: na
Organization: AT&T


The address for the new Brewing store in Red Bank is

67 Monmouth St.
Red Bank, N.J. 07701

(It's almost directly across the street from Bilows - if
you're looking for it.)

I think the phone # is (908) 842-7507.
I didn't post the address cause I thought I saw it here
in earlier posts but maybe that was the HBD -sorry.
I'm going to stop by there today so I'll check the phone
number and post a correction if necessary.

Michael
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: M14051@mwvm.mitre.org
Subject: Re: Combining liquid and dry extracts
Organization: The MITRE Corporation, McLean VA 22102
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1992 13:53:34 GMT

In article <1992Apr8.165332.17466@ccu.umanitoba.ca>
bright@ccu.umanitoba.ca (Bob Bright) writes:
 
>In article <1992Apr7.144848.39@sdg.dra.com> stephen@sdg.dra.com writes:
>>Lazy Sunday Steam Beer
>>
>>3.3   lb  Pale Malt Extract Syrup
>>2     lb  Pale Malt Extract Powder
 
>I've seen a number of recipes like this one which call for both liquid
>and dry malt extract.  I'm wondering whether there are any general
>benefits to doing this.
 
The basic reason many people's recipes call for such a combination is
that it is much easier to measure 2 lbs. of dry extract than 2 lbs.
of liquid extract.  Plus, storing the dry extract is often easier than
storing liquid extract if you only use 2 lbs. of a 3.3 lb can.
 
Now if you have a 50lb. bucket of liquid extract, just go with all
liquid extract and don't worry.
From: djc@ece.cmu.edu (David Collins)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: AHA Porter Book
Date: 14 Apr 92 18:20:43 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: Carnegie Mellon University

I ordered the Vienna and Porter style beer books together (at the
pre-printing price) and I only received the Vienna book.  The two were
supposed to be sent in mid-March.  Has the Porter book been sent out yet?
I was already billed for both.



--
 Dave Collins					Carnegie Mellon University
						Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania

 ------------------------------------------------------------------------
 "It's such a fine line between being clever and being stupid."  
						      This is Spinal Tap (1983)
From: jsco@buzzardroost.az.stratus.com (Jeff Scott)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Sparging
Date: 17 Apr 92 19:54:32 GMT

As a newcomer to the home brew scenario, I have not yet come across the  
need nor the process of sparging. Webster defines it thus:

sparge \'spa rj\ vt  sparged; sparg ing
[prob. fr. MF espargier, fr. L spargere to scatter]
(1785)
1: SPRINKLE, BESPATTER; esp: SPRAY
2: to agitate (a liquid) by means of compressed air or gas entering  
through a pipe
  sparge n 
  sparg er n 

I realize that this may draw a number of flames (save bandwidth and flame  
me through mail) but, how does one sparge? Does it make better beer? does  
one need to sparge a kit (mountmellick and the like) or do you only need  
to sparge if you start from scratch?? How exactly do you sparge? the above  
definition brings images of a seriously soaked kitchen or work area!

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jeffrey E. Scott                 jsco@az.stratus.com (NeXT Mail)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Opinions expressed are my own and not that of Stratus Computers, NUF SAID!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
All things in moderation, ESPECIALLY moderation!!