From: aviator@athena.mit.edu (Joakim Karlsson)
Subject: Buying an Entry Level Mountain Bike
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.marketplace
Organization: Flight Transportation Associates, Cambridge, MA
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 17:01:02 GMT

Here is the final version of my article on buying an entry level
mountain bike.  I'm still open to comments and suggestions, however.
When I posted the draft, I received over a dozen comments, all very
positive and constructive.  I've tried to include many of them.
Some good suggestions were made which would have entailed writing
substantially new sections; in these cases I often selected to
provide a reference.  Nonetheless, there is still quite a bit of
new material since the draft version.

Some caveats: Prices and other information are geared towards the
US market, with some supplemental information for Canada.  Also,
the 1992 model year is nearing its end, and 1993 models will be
upon us soon, no doubt with new gadgets and higher prices due to
the falling US dollar.  The basic principles should stay the same,
however.

This article may be distributed in its original form (everything
between the "CUT HERE" line and the signature) to any electronic
messaging system, but may not appear in printed form except for
private use.  If necessary, it may be subdivided into smaller parts.

I'd like to thank everyone who contributed to this article: I have
not acknowledged you individually, but your comments were extremely
helpful and encouraging.

...Joakim

--- CUT HERE ---


Buying an Entry Level Mountain Bike
-----------------------------------
by Joakim Karlsson (aviator@athena.mit.edu)


Introduction

What follows below are my personal thoughts on buying an entry
level mountain bike (mtb).  I felt compelled to write this
because I could not find one concise source of shopping advice
when I set out to by my first mtb.  When I ventured into my first
bicycle store I was struck by the vast number of makes and models
available.  I recently heard that there are over 850 models on
the market.  A quick look through Mountain Bike Action (MBA)
magazine's 1992 Buyer's Guide reveals more than 30 manufacturers
of entry level mtbs.  I was initially surprised to learn that
there are new models each year, just like in the car industry.

I wasn't quite sure how to narrow the field down to one bike, so
I decided I had to do a little bit of research first.  Judging by
the number of netters asking about buying an entry level mtb, I
thought other prospective buyers could benefit if I shared my
results.

Out of approximately 10 million bikes sold annually, in 1991 51%
were mtbs, 25% road bikes, and 16% hybrid bikes (a compromise
between a road bike and a mountain bike).  That leaves 8% for
other types of bikes.  I can only guess that entry level mtbs
constitute the largest share of overall mtb sales.  Hence, the
entry level mtb is probably the most commonly sold bike right
now.  Yet, when you look at magazines and other sources of
information, this segment seems to be neglected in favor of
mid-level and competition class mtbs.  I have yet to find a
magazine, for example, which caters to recreational mountain
biking.

About the author: I am by *no* means an expert on bicycles. 
While I've used many sources, I'm responsible for any technical
errors.  At the time when I began writing this, I had owned my
bike for less than a month.  Even though I ride it practically
every day the weather and my schedule permit, almost exclusively
off-road, I'm by all accounts still a novice.  In short, I
consider myself a member of the average mtb consumer category.

Please keep remembering that everything in here represents my
personal opinion.  Mentally insert "in my opinion," in front of
every sentence if you have to...  Even when I write "you should",
it's still only a reflection of my personal feelings. 
Occasionally I quote outside references, in which case it's
someone else's opinion.

The Entry Level MTB


First off, I've only considered new stock bikes.  Used bikes are
available at good prices, but if you don't know how to detect any
potential problems you could be wasting your money.  At the other
extreme, mtbs can be custom made, but not within what I would
consider the entry level price range.

My definition of an entry level mtb was somewhat influenced by
cost concerns.  The key was to define the price range which would
ensure high quality and suitability for a novice rider, while not
buying more bike than I could take advantage of.  Initially I
thought the $300-400 price range would be appropriate, but as I
learned of the compromises found in the lower end of that price
range I upped it to $350-450.  I have been told that the
equivalent price range in Canada would be $500-650 (Canadian
dollars that is).  Of course, I'm talking about regular prices
here; with a sale or discount you could get a great bike for
less.

Advice #1: Plan on spending at least $350 for a good quality
entry level mtb.  I don't think a novice rider would gain much by
spending more than $450 for an entry level bike.

There seems to be two general philosophies in buying an entry
level mtb: (1) Buy a cheapo bike and use it to figure out what
you really need/want, and then upgrade; (2) Buy a more expensive
bike because it really will be better and last you longer.  In
the end, I chose option (2), and decided to buy into the $450
range instead of the $350 range.  However, this is an individual
choice, and some will wish to spend less than $350 or more than
$450 for their first bike.

Riding Needs

Before you put down any money, think long and hard about why you
want to buy a mtb.  Are you going to commute, ride
recreationally, exercise, compete?  How often will you be riding? 
Off-road or on-road?  Wide flat trails, technical single-track,
or downhill?

Advice #2: Carefully evaluate your riding needs before buying.

Your needs may change as you shop around and get more acquainted
to mtbs, especially if you haven't ridden them in a while.  If
you've never been out on a trail before, go rent bikes and take
them off-road.  Off-road riding is a very different sensation
than on-road riding.  Try both hybrids and mtbs.

It seems popular to bash hybrid bikes these days.  MBA writes:
"We have never understood the hybrid market: To us they are just
other types of inexpensive mountain bikes that usually lose their
compatibility with either dirt or road environments as they
attempt to be efficient in both."  True, the hybrid represents a
compromise and is probably not as good on the trail as a mtb and
not as good on the road as a road bike.  However, for most non-
competing riders, I think they would be perfect.  They're more
than competent on both roads and trails.  They're ideal for
commuting, urban environments, and occasional trail riding.  My
wife's hybrid is certainly a lot more pleasant on the road than
my mountain bike, and we go off-road together, although on less
technical trails than when I'm alone with my mtb.  The counter-
argument goes something like this: Any bike can be ridden on a
road, but you really need a specially designed bike to ride on
trails.

I'm only dealing with mtbs in this article - I just want to
comment that the hybrid bike is a great idea.  Make sure you
really want a mtb when maybe a hybrid would better suit your
needs.

References

Before starting venturing out into the stores you may like to do
some reading.  Try the following:

Bicycle Guide 1992 Buyer's Guide, March 1992 [? - I don't have a
copy of this]

Bicycling 1992 Buyer's Guide, March 1992

Canadian Cyclist 1992 Buyer's Guide, May 1992 [don't have this
one either]

"Mountain Bicycles", Consumer Reports, October 1991, pp. 650-655
[also summarized in the 1992 annual guide along with a rating of
bike helmets]

Mountain Bike Action 1992 Buyer's Guide, May 1992 [lots of good
articles on buying a mtb]

The faq (frequently asked questions) file for rec.bicycles.*
contains addresses of magazines and listings of books to read. 
The file itself is a useful reference, and it also points to
other files.

Note about Consumer Reports: Occasionally I hear complaints about
Consumer Reports' reviews of bicycles and accessories (they've
only done three in recent years - one each for mtbs, hybrids, and
helmets).  True, they're not going to have the expertise of a
competition bicyclist, a bike mechanic, etc.  Sometimes they tend
to emphasize features which are trivial to modify (e.g. saddle
comfort), while neglecting more important issues.  On the other
hand, I think they do a reasonable job in representing the needs
of the average consumer.  Also, it is one of the few sources that
contains a description of many bikes, complete with ratings.  My
greatest complaint with their mountain bike report is that they
did not compare entirely equivalent bikes from a
price/performance perspective.  As a final note, be aware that
the Consumer Reports ratings weigh on-road performance heavily. 
This is because the average consumer's mtb never gets used on
trails...

Advice #3: Read as much about mountain bikes as you can lay your
hands on.  It will make you a more informed buyer.

One good reason to read about mtbs is that you will learn the
jargon, and be able to actually understand what the dealer is
saying.  It helps to be familiar with mtb nomenclature.  In fact,
sections of this article will be difficult to appreciate if you
don't know the names of the parts of a bike.  The March 1992
issue of Bicycling Magazine has a great picture which shows the
anatomy and nomenclature.  It would be nearly impossible to
convey the same information in words.

When you're talking to dealers, ask whenever they use jargon
you're not familiar with.  I sometimes pretend to know less than
I do, just to hear what the dealer will say...

Shopping

Visit many many many bikes stores.  The quality of the store is
important for a number of reasons.  Bikes arrive at the store in
boxes and require assembly.  The quality of initial assembly will
greatly affect the overall quality of the bike.  Proper assembly
requires skill, experience, and training.  More importantly, good
assembly takes time, and time and labor represent costs to the
store.  Hence, the $429 bike assembled quickly may not be a
better deal than the same bike for $449 assembled with lots of
tender loving care.

Good service is also important - you want to feel comfortable
about going back to the store for minor adjustments, questions,
and regular maintenance.  Check on the store's maintenance
policy.  You should get at least one free tune-up a few months
after buying and possibly a free overhaul after a year.  Allowing
you to watch the maintenance process and letting you learn from
it is a nice touch.

I haven't quite figured out a simple way to judge quality of
assembly.  Ask people who are familiar with the store you're
shopping at.  A basic check is to ensure that the wheels are true
(a quick and dirty test is to spin the wheels to detect any
noticeable wobble).  Other things to look out for are play in the
headset and crankset (there shouldn't be any), paint scratches,
or other evidence of use.  Braking should be crisp, with little
lever travel required to achieve lock-up.  Brake shoes should
touch the rim at the same time, and should be toed in a tad
(front part of shoe should be a little bit closer to the rim than
the rear).  Properly adjusted brakes should not squeak.

Shifting should also be crisp, with none of the scraping noise
associated with the chain touching the front derailleur cage,
except at the extreme cross-shifting range (i.e. smallest front
chainring with smallest rear sprocket, or largest front chainring
with largest rear sprocket).  Shifting problems are normally
adjustable, but it could also be a sign of the frame not being
perfectly straight (I have been told that entry-level Suntour
components are susceptible to frame alignment).

Just talking to the store workers helps give you a feel for the
quality of the store.  Whenever I talk to a new store person I
ask what bike(s) they ride, even though they're usually not entry
level bikes.  If they don't ride mtbs you may want to talk to a
different person...  A worker concerned about how the bike fits
you is a good sign.  I'm a strong believer in customer relations,
and I'm willing to pay good service.  The one store that really
impressed me in this respect is Poulin Cycles in Augusta, Maine
(although I haven't spent a penny there).

Try many many many bike models.  Within a given price range, the
quality between different manufacturers does not seem to vary all
that much.  Given that the bike meets your riding needs, the most
important criteria should be general fit and level of comfort. 
It can take a while to notice differences in frame geometry and
components, which is why you should ride many bikes.  Also, once
you've narrowed down your choice to a few candidates, ride each
of them several times.  It helps going to a big store with a
large selection since you can do side-by-side comparisons of many
models there.

I had a hard time deciding how much money to spend.  With so many
models, and prices ranging from a few hundred to a few thousand
dollars, it was difficult to peg the right price range.  Try
this: Ride some bikes you think would be in the right price range
for you.  Then ask to ride a cheaper bike as well as a more
expensive bike, to see what the differences are.  You won't be
able to notice all the differences (like improved durability),
but this should help you visualize what you get for your money.

Most likely you will be test riding the bikes in the dealer's
parking lot.  This is a poor substitute for a rough trail
("gnarly single-track" in mtb lingo).  Try to at least to ride
the bike over grass - see what the dealer will let you get away
with.  Before buying a bike, see if you can do an extended ride. 
Fifteen to twenty minutes should give the bike a good work-out. 
Be a responsible consumer - unless you're paying for the bike,
don't do anything to it that you wouldn't want done to your brand
new mtb.

I'm not going to discuss how to find the right size or fit.  It's
vital that you find a bike that fits you, or you will end up
either in pain or not riding your bike.  The MBA 1992 Buyer's
Guide has a good article on this.  Apparently, one the most
common mistake made by the first time mtb shopper is selecting a
frame which is too large.  You should have at least three inches
of clearance between your crotch and the top tube when straddling
the bike.  Also, make sure the saddle height is set properly when
test riding the bikes - a common mistake is to set it too low.

You'll often find that the right sized frame is not available on
the floor when you go shopping.  Don't test ride a different
sized frame, it will be completely different.  If you do have to
ride a different size, go for the next smaller size.  The best
thing to do is to call the store in advance and ask them to build
up the bikes you want to test in the right size (this might take
a few days).  This is perfectly normal, and you should not in any
way feel compelled to purchase a bike because you've made the
store build it up for you.  Your purchasing decision should be
made based on an overall consideration of issues such as bike
quality, store quality, and price.

All manufacturers have brochures describing their bikes. 
Although they're products of the marketing departments, they
contain lots of useful information, so ask for them.  Bridgestone
in particular has a very nice catalog with lots of useful and
entertaining reading.  You can buy it directly from Bridgestone
for $4, or get it free at your local dealer.

Advice #4: Visit many stores, ride many bikes, ride the final
candidates many times; always riding the right frame size.

Prices

My general experience has been that you get what you pay for. 
The more money you spend, the higher the quality and durability
will be.  However, as discussed before, there is an upper and a
lower limit, depending on your riding needs and skills.  Also,
you don't *always* get a better bike because it costs more...ask
around.

Profit margins on bicycles tend to be low, but they are higher on
maintenance and accessories.  If the price of a bike seems too
good to be true, it might very well be.  If prices for the same
bike vary a lot between individual dealers, it may be an
indication of hasty assembly or other short-cuts.  However,
dealers are occasionally able to discounts certain bikes - an
unusually low price is not always a reason to be worried.  Also,
you'll generally find lower prices at stores with high sale
volumes.

If there is a discrepancy in prices between two similar bikes
from different manufacturers, there might be compromises in the
design of the lower priced bike that you haven't noticed.  For
example, the Mongoose Hilltopper has better shifters/derailleurs
than many bikes in the same price range.  However, it uses lower
quality brakes and levers, and the stays are high-tensile steel
instead of chromoly (an alloy of steel with good weight and
strength characteristics).  I'm not saying it's not a good bike,
but this is typical of the trade-offs manufacturers will adopt to
sell bikes.

Sometimes manufacturers misjudge the demand for a given model. 
If too many bikes are produced, they may get discounted, and you
could find a good deal on a high quality bike.

One way to get a good deal is to buy left-over models from the
previous year.  There aren't all that many changes from one year
to another.  I see no reason not to buy a new bike from the
previous year.  The only problem with this is that you may not
find the specific model or size you're looking for.

Advice #5: Don't shop for price, shop for quality.  Price should
be one of many factors influencing your purchase, not the driving
one.

In their brochure, Bridgestone advises us to "shop for a dealer,
not a bike."  They also go on to say that a higher price is a
good sign.  When I bought my bike I got the lowest price I could
get at a dealer which seemed pretty professional.  Since then
however, I have had second thoughts about the dealer, and I
probably won't go back there for maintenance or my next bike.  I
should have read this article first...

Specifics to Look for in a Bike

As I mentioned earlier, what's most important is that you feel
comfortable on the bike.  This is such a subjective criterion
that it is difficult to say much about it.  The bike should feel
right, should ride smoothly, shift crisply, etc.  Try shifting
through all the gears and use the brakes to make a simulated
panic stop from a low to moderate speed.  Try to ride one bike
and then another one immediately afterwards, this helps
accentuate differences.  Try to ride the bike on a gravel or
grass surface; anything other than the parking lot.

Any bike design represents a trade-off between weight and
strength.  After you get involved with mountain biking for a
while, you'll see the great lengths some people will go to in
order to shave off just a few grams (pass the titanium bolts,
please).  I keep hearing that weight makes a tremendous
difference in performance, and I have no reason to doubt that. 
However, for the entry level mtb shopper this should not be much
of a concern (well, I wouldn't recommend a high tensile steel
frame).  There will not be much of a difference in weight among
entry level bikes - they'll all weigh in around 30 lbs.

There are two specific items which I think are "must haves" on
any mtb which is actually going to be used off-road.  The first
is a sealed bottom bracket.  The bottom bracket does get dirt,
mud, and water over it, and having a sealed mechanism will really
reduce maintenance requirements (in a similar vein, a sealed
headset is also nice, as the front wheel tends to throw mud up
into the bottom of the headset races).  The second item is
replaceable chainrings.  On the low end of the entry level mtb
range, there are bikes which feature a one piece chainring and
crankset assembly.  Hence, if you damage one tooth on one
chainring, you'll have to replace the entire thing.  It makes
much more sense to me to have chainrings which can be replaced as
necessary.

The Frame

The frame should preferably be chromoly, which offers good weight
and strength properties for recreational off-road riding.  For
any mtb over $350, you can expect that at least the main frame
(triangle formed by the top tube, bottom tube, and seat tube)
will be chromoly.  However, some of them will have high tensile
steel stays or forks.  This is normally acceptable for the
recreational rider - high tensile steel stays in particular
should not cause any concern.  However, it will make your bike
slightly heavier and/or weaker.  It's not always obvious from the
manufacturer brochures if the entire frame is chromoly or just
the main tubes, so make sure you check on this.

Standard chromoly tubing has uniform thickness along the length
of the tube, whereas butted tubing has variable thickness. 
Butted tubes are thicker in high stress areas and thinner in
other places, allowing for a better strength to weight ratio. 
Heat treatment is another method used to improve strength.  Heat
treated butted chromoly frames seem to be standard for higher
priced entry level mtbs.

Another issue is oversized tubing.  Larger diameters allow for
thinner tube walls, supposedly improving the strength to weight
ratio.  Oversized tubing also increases stiffness.  However, from
my readings it seems that this may be more of a marketing ploy,
especially when it comes to oversized forks.  It has been
suggested that the real issue here is to make the bike
practically unbreakable, presumably to limit liability and reduce
the number of frame warranty claims.  Certainly there are some
top notch bikes out there with normal tube and fork diameters. 
Bridgestone makes a good case against oversized tubing in their
brochure.

Finally, you should know that there are several different ways of
putting tubes together to form a frame.  Welding (various
techniques), fillet brazing, lugged tubing, bonding, etc.  Each
method has its own advantages and disadvantages, but I wouldn't
be overly concerned about this issue, because in my opinion the
quality of the workmanship is more important than the technique
used.  You may want to learn more about frame construction
techniques (see the Bridgestone brochure or the July 1992 issue
of MBA) for your own benefit, but for entry level mtbs it's not a
critical issue.

Tires and Wheels

Tires and wheels come with different treads, construction
techniques, thicknesses, appearances, rims, spokes, etc.  This is
an area I know relatively little about, so I won't say much.  My
bike came with anodized, black rims, and black walled tires. 
This tends to give the bike a "heavy" look, if you care about
such things.  The black rims wear down to a silver finish after a
few off-road rides, so don't get too attached to them.  Marketing
gimmick if you ask me.  Remember that tires are very easy to
replace, so if you don't like what your bike comes with, swap
them with something else.  Look at the tire tread pattern - if it
is continuous along the centerline of the tire it will generally
provide a smoother ride on pavement.

You can really modify the handling of a bike with different
tires.  Aggressive knobby tires are usually preferred for trail
use.  Of course, trails have different characteristics depending
on region and landscape, which influences the choice of tire.  A
mountain bike with relatively slick tires can make an excellent
bike for roads.  Similarly, a hybrid can be made much more useful
for trails by using fatter, more aggressive tires.  Some even
argue that the larger diameter wheels commonly found on hybrids
are better for off-road, especially climbing (Bianchi makes this
claim in their 1992 brochure).  If you want to change tires
quickly and conveniently you can get two complete pairs of
wheels, although this is a bit more expensive than just buying a
second pair of tires.

Shifters/Brakes

I haven't found a single entry level mtb which does not have
either Shimano or Suntour shifters and derailleurs.  Brakes and
brake levers are also mostly made by Shimano or Suntour, but
occasionally other names are found such as Dia-Compe, Proponent,
and Lee-Chi.  While brakes are a vital component, I don't think
you will be able to detect much of a difference between
manufacturers in this price class.

The choice of shifters and derailleurs is an issue of much
debate.  Once again, it boils down to personal preference, but
there are marked differences in quality.  Essentially there are
two types of shifters on the market today: Overbar index shifters
with friction option (one lever) and underbar index shifters (two
levers with pushbutton shifting).  The stated advantages of the
former are lower weight, less complexity, and the ability to
revert to friction shifting if the system should be knocked out
of alignment (without a friction option, you are suck with one
gear only if the indexing stops working).  The stated advantages
of the latter include ease of shifting and position of shifters. 
Less common types of shifters include grip shifters and wishbone
levers.

Denouncing pushbutton shifters seems to be as popular as bashing
hybrid bikes.  The editors of MBA magazine, for example, will
gladly indulge in either.  Try both and see which you like, and
just be aware of the advantages and disadvantages of each.  I
think pushbutton shifters really help the recreational rider
(including myself).  One of Bicycling magazine's editors made an
interesting comment that easy shifting induces frequent shifting
which (if done correctly) results in more efficient riding.

The most common Shimano components (in order of increasing
quality and price) are 70GS, 100GS, 200GS, 300LX, 400LX, 500LX,
Deore LX, DX, XT, and XTR.  Suntour components have designations
like XCT, XCU, XCM, and XC-Pro, but I don't know the order of
price and quality.  Personally I prefer the entry level Shimano
components over the equivalent Suntour equipment, but try them
out for yourself.  As another data point, Consumer Reports
prefers Suntour over Shimano.  The components can make up a
considerable share of the cost of the bike, especially for higher
priced bikes.  Extreme example: a complete Shimano XTR group will
run you about $1,100.  But it's good stuff...

Some mtbs have the shifting and rear brake cables routed over the
top tube, to avoid dirt which gets splattered all over the down
tube.  I can attest to the fact that any cable which is routed
the conventional way, below the down tube, will get dirty from
riding on trails.  I just wipe off the mud after every ride.  I
don't know if there are any drawbacks to having the cables routed
along the top tube; it may not be a bad idea.

Of course, you could buy a bike you like and then upgrade the
components to something nicer.  Complete component groups or
individual components are available through retail and mail-
order.  However, when a bike manufacturer buys components you can
be ensured that the price is a lot less than what you would pay. 
My recommendation is to buy a bike that already comes with the
components you want.

Human Factors

I'm a big fan of quick release saddles and wheels, and you'll
find that most mtbs in the $350-450 range have them.  It really
helps to adjust saddle height depending on the riding conditions. 
Keep the saddle higher for on-road riding and long smooth climbs,
but lower for general off-road riding.  Quick release wheels are
a divine gift when fixing flats, or transporting the bike in your
trunk.  An obvious problems with quick release saddles and wheels
is that they are easily stolen, so if you live in a high risk
area you may want to counter this by using locks or replacing the
quick release skewers.

Saddle comfort is an issue, but on trails you should keep your
weight on the pedals, not the seat, so it's not that critical. 
Padded shorts help considerably in this respect.  Also, saddles
can easily be replaced.  In general, if there is a specific
component you don't like, ask if the dealer will replace it. 
Often this is not a problem, but if you put on a more expensive
component, expect to pay the difference.  Easily replaced items
include the saddle, seat post, tires, grips, toe clips, pedals,
and handle bar (a little bit more cumbersome).

Handle bar height and shape are to some extent issues of comfort. 
Some entry level bikes may have curved or raised, antler style,
handlebars, promoting a more comfortable upright position.  This
might be appropriate for some riders, but on the trails you want
to be able to lean forward.  I strongly recommend straight
handlebars which are at least level with the saddle, or even a
few inches below.

Color

OK, not very important, but if you're like me, when you plunk
down a fair share of your salary on a new toy, you want it to
look good.  Most entry level mtbs come in one or two color
schemes.  Color is obviously a personal preference.  A darkly
colored bike does not get noticeably hotter in the sun (well
maybe it does, but it's never bothered me), so I can't really see
any preference for any particular color.  Avoid black or dark
colored helmets, however.

Multi-color and fancy paint schemes cost a bit more, so expect a
compromise somewhere else or a higher price.  For the really
artistic (or vain?) you can color match accessories, although
it's sometimes hard to find the same color from two different
manufacturers.  You'll always be able to find black and hot pink
however...

Personal Recommendations

[Remember what I said in the beginning about personal opinion. 
It's particularly applicable to this section]

I often see prospective buyers ask for specific recommendations
on the net.  Well, the "correct" answer is it depends on your
needs and how each bike feels to you.  Nonetheless, there are a
few manufacturers which have impressed me with their quality
and/or philosophy, and whose bikes were pleasant to ride.  Their
bikes became my final candidates once I had narrowed down the
selection.  Possibly I'm just a victim of shrewd marketing - I'd
certainly like to hear what other people think.  Also, I haven't
been exposed to all manufacturers available.  My favorite
manufacturers (and their best entry level mtb around $450) are
Specialized (Rockhopper), Bridgestone (MB-6), Bianchi (Ibex),
Giant (Iguana), and Trek (830).

What do the magazines think?  The bikes I recommend were all
within the top seven in the Consumer Reports ratings.  The others
were: Cannondale SM400 ($535 however) and Nishiki Backroads.  On
the March 1990 cover of MBA magazine it says: "New High Plains:
The Best $300 Bike We've Ever Tested!", but the MBA 1992 Buyer's
Guide does not contain ratings.  Bicycling magazine rates the
Specialized Rockhopper a best buy, the only one under $500.

The one bicycle that impressed me most in terms of value for
money, was the Bridgestone MB-6 ($379.95 around here). 
Unfortunately, I personally didn't like the Suntour shifters and
derailleurs it had.  I strongly recommend you try it out for
yourself, however.

Accessories

Thought you could get away with just spending $400 on a bike? 
Some initial accessories are necessary if you want to enjoy the
hobby to its fullest, some others can be added later.  It really
helps if you budget $100-200 for accessories when buying a
bike...

Consider the following as a minimum for off-road riding:

Helmet ($30-100; try on many different ones, they all fit
differently)
Water bottle and cage ($5-10; many dealers will throw this in for
free)
Under seat tool bag ($25; Giant makes a good one with two
compartments and good tools for around $35; everything you'll
need except a patch kit and a spoke wrench)
Tools: Tire irons, allen wrenches, hex wrenches, screwdriver,
spoke wrench, and chain tool (prices vary; consider a multi-
purpose tool like the Cool Tool for around $20)
Patch kit or spare tube ($2-4)
Frame pump or CO2 system ($20 for a mini-pump)
Toe clips and straps ($10-15; must have for efficient off-road
riding, dealer may throw in for free or may be provided by
manufacturer)
Gloves ($15-50, padded and with terry cloth strips)

Other good accessories include:

Padded shorts ($25-70)
Eye protection ($20-100 - and higher!)
Second water bottle and cage ($5-10)
Bike lock ($10-50)
Cycling computer ($25-50)
Cycling shoes ($35-100)
Lights ($25-200; more Watts, more bucks)
Books (prices vary; maintenance/trail guides/technique)

A word about helmets: I'm not going to pontificate about wearing
helmets   I wear one religiously (no pun intended).  What I do
want to say is that no one seems to consider the most practical
benefit of wearing a helmet when mountain biking: Branches that
protrude into your path at eye level or are easily deflected by
lowering your head and letting them bounce of the helmet.  This
beats using arms and hands to beat a path through the vegetation. 
Helmets with a hard micro-shell are better suited for this than
those with lycra covered foam.  I recommend eye protection when
using this obstruction avoidance technique.

There are lots and lots of other things out there.  Accessories
are often found cheaper through mail order.  The two most quoted
outfits seem to be Bike Nashbar (1-800-NASHBAR) and Performance
(1-800-PBSBIKE).  The rec.bicycles.* faq file lists many more
places.  If nothing else, get their catalogs to see what's out
there.  Some swear by mail order, others prefer to support their
local stores.

Trick accessories: Some accessories have mostly gadget value.  My
favorite is a seat post which doubles as a pump.  Don't let the
dealer pressure you into buying accessories you don't need.  You
can always go back for more.  Items like fenders, rear rack, bar
ends, flip clip, seat pads, kick stand, jerseys, etc are all good
accessories, but only if you really need them.  Ride your bike
for a while - you'll start noticing what you're missing.

Two other ways to save money on accessories: Many stores will
give you 10% off within 30 days after purchasing a new bike. 
Also, some stores will give 10% off to members of certain
bicycling organizations.

Your New Bike

What to do with your new bike?  Name it and give it a big hug. 
Well, consider waxing it (standard car wax) - it will do all the
good things wax does for your car, plus allow you to wipe dirt
off easily.  Just make sure to get rid of any wax which ends up
on the rims.  Theft protection: Write down the serial number and
see if your local police department has a bike registration
program.  Also, your bike owner's manual will normally have a
product registration card of sorts.  I doubt that it is necessary
to send it in to validate the warranty, but that's the
information the manufacturers use to issue recalls and such. 
Otherwise, check the tire pressures and hit the trails.  See how
much dirt you can get on your new bike within one hour...

Upgrading?

This has little to do with entry level mtbs, but I find that
since I bought my bike I keep thinking about what bike I could
upgrade to next.  I'm dreaming of something in the $750-850
range, preferably under 27 lbs.  I'm impressed by the following
bikes: Specialized Stumpjumper, Bianchi Peregrine, Bridgestone
MB-3, and Giant ATX-770.  If anyone has any comments on these
bikes, I'd like to hear them.  Look for "Buying a Mid-Priced
Mountain Bike" by the same author in a few years...

Comments? Questions? Complaints?  I'd like to learn more about
mtbs, the market place, and the industry.  Please e-mail to
Joakim Karlsson, aviator@athena.mit.edu.  Thanks!

--
Joakim Karlsson            | aviator@athena.mit.edu
Flying Fanatic in Training | Air: PP-ASEL  CAP: Freedom 110 Mobile  FCC: N1JHW
                 "Oh, I have slipped the surly bonds of earth
                And danced the skies on laughter-silvered wings"