HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: akarpowicz@mta.ca (Adam Karpowicz)
Subject: Re: How do I bend an oak 4x4?
Reply-To: akarpowicz@mta.ca
Organization: Mount Allison U, Sackville, N.B. Canada 
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 23:27:27 GMT

In article <1992Oct2.195858.6477@organpipe.uug.arizona.edu>, apoyner@as.arizona.edu (Tony Poyner) writes:
>In article <dnsurber.718036807@node_26400> dnsurber@lescsse.jsc.nasa.gov (Douglas N. Surber) writes:
>>
>>I want to make two curved 4" diameter beams, 80" long. They will have a
>>smooth circular arc 4" high in the center relative to the ends. If I
>>could remember enough geometry I would tell you what the radius of the
>>bend was. I would like to use white oak. Any suggestions would be
>>welcome.
>>
>I can't imagine trying to bend such a beast.  Why not laminate it?  For
>this sort of radius, half-inch thick oak strips should be relatively
>easy to work with, clamping a few at a time to a form.
>
>---

This is what I'd do too.  If I remember correctly, the force to bend
a beam goes up proportionally to the square of its thickness (or was it
a cube?).  Also, to dry such a beam after steaming would require a very
long time.  Besides you will never get a circular arc unless the beam
tapers down towards the ends, or at least is much longer then 80" when
bent. 

Adam
From: rdc00a@nmrdc1.nmrdc.nnmc.navy.mil (Kelly Pedersen)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Table Saws
Date: 30 Sep 92 15:35:49 GMT
Organization: Naval Medical R&D Command

Recently I asked for comments on the  Ryobi BT3000 table saw.  It
seems the consensus of opinion is that (a) the Ryobi is possibly
adequate for light work and (b) that the Delta Contractors saw is
the way to go.  Thanks very much to the people who responded.  If
anyone has anything else to add I would be glad to hear it.

Kelly  
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: whit@milton.u.washington.edu (John Whitmore)
Subject: Re: How do I bend an oak 4x4? (rounding it afterwards)
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 02:29:02 GMT


	I think the consensus is to laminate; I should add that 
making a half-round arch is achieved with applied force ONLY at
the ends (other clamp points should have no applied stress, or
the curve will be noncircular).  Some kind of rope clamp,
with spacers that get replaced one-at-a-time with new boards, will
do the trick.

	As for rounding the result, I favor making a hogshead
jig.  You want a cylindrical drum that can be clamped to
the wood, and use the end of the drum to support a saw or
router (will require a long router bit).  Put the hogshead on the
arch, align to center-of-square, clamp it, and cut straight IN from the
cylinder, going the full 360 degrees.  This will make a square
arch with circular rings; then use your axe to connect the rings
(OK, finish with a spokeshave, or draw knife, but you don't
want to START with the fine tools).

	John Whitmore


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: 78mgb@cbnewsb.cb.att.com (andrew.m.brown)
Subject: Recommendation on Wood Carving Books
Keywords: woodcarving
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 20:18:52 GMT

As the holiday season approaches I'm looking for recommendation
on good books for wood carving in particular making decoys.
The book(s) will hopefully contain info on selecting the 
appropriate tools, sharpening them, instruction on the best way
to get started, and finishing the carving(hints on painting and
staining.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: doshay@ursa.arc.nasa.gov (David Doshay)
Subject: Machine Reviews
Organization: NASA-Ames Biocomputation Center
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 16:27:00 GMT

stuarts@landau.ucdavis.edu has suggested a that we have just one place
to archive posted machine reviews, something like a FAQ list, but prob
much longer. I sure think it is a good idea: I am tired of reposting
my reviews of tools over and over. It would be a great line in the FAQ
to refer questions about some burfl to one ftp site, perhaps broken
into files by tool type. 

But who wants to maintain the site and update the files for each new
posting of a tool review? I cannot do it here on a Govt. computer.

David		doshay@soma.arc.nasa.gov

The thought police insist I tell you:
my thoughts, not NASA's

Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 2 Oct 1992 20:43:00 EST
From:         FABY000 <FABY@NMUMUS.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Routers for router table : Opinions Wanted

I am satisfied with the two PC routers (690 and 693).  I use the
standard one on my router table and the plunge for other work.  Also,
for some work I use the horizontal table that was described in Woodsmith
a couple of years ago.  It is better than a standard router table for
some cuts.  Roger Barry
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: markv@lugh.se.hou.compaq.com (Mark Vaughan)
Subject: Re: Hitachi planers--any good?
Organization: Compaq Computer Corporation
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 21:02:03 GMT


In article <1992Sep29.180530.119325@marshall.wvnet.edu>, rcbi27@marshall.wvnet.edu (DBRUM) writes:
|> Has anybody got any info on the Hitachi portable thickness planer? I've
|> only seen pictures of it in the magazine adds. It costs *alot* more than
|> the comparable planers on the market, almost 2x as much as some. Question:
|> are they worth it? And, if so, why?
|> 
|> (I already own a Hitachi 10" power mitre saw, and have been very pleased
|> with it in all ways :-)
|> 
|> Thanks, danny
|> -- 
|> 	"Were his solid black square paintings really,
|> 	as the artist claimed, simply neutral, abstract
|> 	compositions devoid of external references and
|> 	meanings?" ***********************************

After kicking tires for several months this spring, I finally decided upon the
Hitachi P12R, and I feel it is one of the best decisions I've made as far as 
tool selection.  It's solid, smooth, and (so far) completely trouble free.  It
is glassy smooth, even when I forget and run a board through backward.  I 
could go on, but I think I bought the only planer I will ever need to, and it
certainly seems to be built that way.

Regards,
Mark

% Mark Vaughan     	      Anything I do of value belongs to my employer. %
% (markv@cliff.compaq.com)    Everything else (such as opinions) I get to    %
% Compaq Computer Corp.	      keep.  It's all in the contract.		     %


 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Lathe sanding - avoiding sanding rings
From: poncho@linc.amigans.gen.nz (Peter Northway)
Date: Thu, 01 Oct 92 10:22:54 GMT
Organization: Totally disorganised.

peter dunster <pdunster@CC.UOW.EDU.AU> writes:

> >
> > I've completed a couple of projects on a wood lathe; candle stands, lamps,
> > etc... It's always quite difficult to eliminate or avoid rings around the
> > object after sanding.  I use various grits, pressure, and speeds.

Peter the most important thing is to keep the sandpaper constantly on the
move. If it is allowed to stay in one place for even a fraction of a second
then the rings you mention are likely to occur.

My own technique for sanding in the lathe is to start with the finest grit I
can get away with (sometimes pretty course - don't be effected by the highbrows
who scourn at anything courser that 300 grit the important thing is to get the
job done not play games) and then go progressively through the grits
as follows:   (WET means lubricated with TUNG or Boiled LINSEED Oil) 

    60  DRY
    80  DRY
   100  DRY
   100  WET
   150  WET
   220  WET
   320  WET
   400  WET
Sanding sealer usually Blonde Polish
   600  WET
  1200  WET
Finish with plenty of oil and the back of the 1200 Grit.
Burnish with a clean soft cloth.

Only wipe lightly with the courser grits and only sufficient passes to
eliminate the marks from the previous grade.

If you have any trouble with a particular grit then take a step back to
the next courser grit and try again. 

This may going overboard for small items but on a large bowl or platter
there are no short cuts.

Hope this is of some help.

     Peter Northway        | Disclaimer : This is just my opinion. Well more
  Wanganui New Zealand     | like a tiny ripple in the fabric of the universe.
poncho@linc.amigans.gen.nz | Well would you believe just another beer break.
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Christopher Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Window glazing
Date: 5 Oct 92 23:57:07 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <4607@moscom.com> de@moscom.com (David Esan) writes:
>In article <WOODWORK%92100213455001@IPFWVM.BITNET> ALEX@NKI.BITNET (Bill Alexander) writes:
>>I watched a profession glazier (?) working this summer. His trick was dipping
>>his hands into kerosene before handling the putty. It both made it more
>>workable and kept it from sticking to his hands.

>Hmm.  Real healthy.  I believe kerosene is a carcinogen.

No more so that gasoline or diesel...

Seriously, ordinary hydrocarbons are relatively innocuous w.r.t. cancers.
Things with carbon rings (eg: aromatic hydrocarbons) like benzenes and
toluene are the ones that the warnings are most often issued about.  Kerosene
wouldn't have much of these.

But I betcha he had a good case of dishpan hands...  Solvent burns,
losing skin oil etc.

[I'd wear gloves if it was necessary to do this...]
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: developed vs rated hp
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 92 23:41:09 GMT

In article <1992Sep29.222117.25566@adobe.com> bennett@adobe.com writes:

>What about workbenches whose length is usually given with the tail
>vise in the open position (meaning you get about 10" of empty vise
>space added on)?
>
>Any others?

How about "20'" ladders that are only 17' long when fully extended. At
least this method's standard, so you can allow for it.

One thing that really burns me is the use of "nominal". It's one thing
to say a 2x4 is "nominally" two inches by four inches. It's quite another
to run into something that really has to be a certain dimension to be
usefull, and then see the word "nominal" in there. The worst example I've
seen is an insulation board which is nominally 15.25" wide. If you try to
put this stuff up between normally spaced studs, you get a quarter inch
gap.

patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | If God had meant for man to fly, he'd have
                    | given him more money.
                    |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: M19120@mwvm.mitre.org
Subject: Re: Routers for router table : Opinions Wanted
Organization: The MITRE Corporation, McLean VA 22102
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 13:39:36 GMT

In article <1992Sep28.210227.12295@adobe.com>
bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds) writes:
 
>
>Mark Alexander writes
>> I recall a Wood magazine article from a couple of years ago that
>> mentioned Freud and Ryobi plunge routers being suitable for tables,
>> because they had a micro-depth-adjustment-knob-thingie that could be
>> reached easily from under the table.
>
>The real criteria, IMHO, is that the plunge depth lever not be self-locking.
>Porter-Cable and Bosch plunge routers in particular are unsuitable
>because of this - it means you have to have one hand pressing the lever
>while the other turns the knob. However, the self locking mechanism is
>great for hand-held use.
>
>However, even if you don't have to hold the plunge lock lever you've
>still got to twirl that knob for all depth adjustments. If you've got
>a big depth adjustment to make prepare for a lot of twirling...
>
>- Bennett Leeds
 
I have a Bosch 1604 router (not a plunge router) mounted
to a Woodhaven lexan router base. The simple height adjustment
on the 1604 makes adjustment easy when the router is in the table.
 
To add plunge routing capabilities I purchased a Porter Cable plunge
router base which the motor assembly of the 1604 slides into.  So far
this has been a satifactory solution to having an easily adjustable
table mounted router that can be converted into a free hand plunge
router.
 
The cost of this set up is not to bad:
Bosch 1604 - $110
Porter Cable plunge base - $75
 
The ideal system would be one with all of the functionality listed
above along with a variable speed router - for panel raising etc.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: alexande@genghis.borland.com (Mark Alexander)
Subject: Re: Routers for router table : Opinions Wanted
Originator: alexande@genghis.borland.com
Organization: Borland International
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 19:05:27 GMT


I recall a Wood magazine article from a couple of years ago that
mentioned Freud and Ryobi plunge routers being suitable for tables,
because they had a micro-depth-adjustment-knob-thingie that could be
reached easily from under the table.

But I'm thinking about building a router table with a removable
insert, in which case just about any type router would be OK, I think.
(Disclaimer: this is the voice of ignorance -- I don't currently own a
router, I'm just lusting after one.)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: walt@eng.clemson.edu (Walter B. Ligon III)
Subject: GPI Arts & Crafts Conference
Reply-To: walt@eng.clemson.edu
Organization: College of Engineering, Clemson Univ.
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 20:18:46 GMT

RE: my previous posting about the GPI A&C conference.

The Grove Park Inn is an Arts & Crafts period hotel in Asheville, NC

For those who don't know, the Arts & Crafts period had nothing to do
with quilts and baskets and things like that but rather was an artistic
movement that occured about the turn of the century.  It was essentially
a reaction to Victorian "excesses" and emphasised form over function, natural
materials, and communal living.  It was the precursor the modernist movement
and its effects are still felt today (in fact, the style is very popular right
now).  It is related to design elements found in the English countryside, Japan,
and Southwestern US. 
It included furniture, metalware, pottery, textiles, and especially
architecture.  It's most notable champions would be William Morris, John Ruskin,
Charles McIntosh, Gustav Stickley, Elbert Hubbard, Frank Lloyd Wright, Bernard
Mabeck, and Green & Green of Pasadena (not sure I spelled all of those just right).
It is the period that goes with "mission oak" furniture.

The Arts and Crafts Conference at the Grove Park Inn has been running for 6 or 7
years and is attended by a variety of A&C collectors, enthusiasts, craftsmen,
and antique dealers.  There are lectures, small group discussions, demonstrations,
exhibits, and a big A&C only antique show where the dealers bring out the truely
primo stuff.  There are also tours around Asheville, and Asheville is also a
wonderful place to spend a week-end, so you certainly won't get bored.

The Grove Park Inn is the ideal place for the conference as it is an excellent
example of Arts & Crafts architecture and is deocorated with hundreds of original
and reproduction mission pieces including two one-of-a-kind Roycroft clocks.

As I said in my original posting, I cannot get to detailed infor right now, but
you can call the GPI via a 1-800 number (which you can get via 1-800 information)
and they can tell you all about it.  It is in late February, the cost us just under
$300 for a couple (double occupancy) including the conference and room for 2 nights.
Make your reservations early!

BTW, I know this isn't strictly woodworking, but A&C has a natural appeal to
woodworkers because it emphasizes joinery and the natural beauty of wood.  Also,
the designs are relatively simple to execute.  Finally, from a philosophical
point of view, home woodworking is a natural activity for A&C enthusiasts.
From: sgs8r@kelvin.seas.Virginia.EDU (Steve Strickland, sgs8r@virginia.edu)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: developed vs rated hp
Date: 1 Oct 92 22:26:08 GMT
Organization: Dept. of Systems Eng., U.Va.

In article <01GPCPBAYKTU8Y4Y6A@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM> RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM writes:
>"Developed horse power" (DHP) is marketing expression. It is a shortend
>version of "Couldn't develope that much horse power in our wildest dreems".

In this vein, it is useful to note the inherently retrospective nature of the
phrase "developed horsepower" which indicates that proper usage of this
technical term is in sentences like:

  "It developed x HP right before the motor melted into slag."

Put another way, it indicates the capacity of the motor when used in a
disposable mode for a period of time not significantly different from zero. 

The term is analogous to the "peak power" and "total music power" amplifier
specs popular in the 70's, and is a reliable indication that you're looking at
equipment not intended for actual use.
From: jjohnson@EDWARDS-SCY.AF.MIL (Jim Johnson 7-9535 (6518 TS/EN))
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Biscuit Joiners
Date: 6 Oct 92 19:08:53 GMT
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-Mailer: ELM [version 2.2 PL0]
              at Oct 5, 92 2:35 pm


      Related to this, does anyone know what "NORM" uses on NYW?

      James G. Johnson
      Standard Disclaimer
From: de@moscom.com (David Esan)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Window glazing
Date: 2 Oct 92 12:14:57 GMT
Organization: Moscom Corp., Pittsford NY

In article <BvG14u.L9r@acsu.buffalo.edu> bartnik@acsu.buffalo.edu (David Bartnik) writes:
>I'm in the process of repairing a few windows around my house before
>winter and I have yet to learn the secret of applying glazing to the
>windows without it sticking to my fingers and putty knife. Hardly any
>of the glazing sticks to the window and what does looks awful. I've 
>tried applying it warm and cold and nothing seems to work.  Any help
>would be appreciated.

You can find glazing compound in a tube and apply it with a caulking gun.
You get a nice even bead all around.   Then just smooth with the knife.
-- 
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 -->     David Esan      de@moscom.com  
 
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 29 Sep 1992 20:38:24 EDT
From:         FABY000 <FABY@NMUMUS.BITNET>
Subject:      Shop vacs

I have the model 800C Shopvac, 16 gallon capacity.  It has strong
suction, picks up nails etc. as well as the usual shavings and saw dust
on the floor.  I do not use it with a saw, router or planer.  I use a
dust collector for extended times and for collection of large amounts of
waste.  I do not recommend the Shopvac because: 1.  The hose is easily
pulled off when using the vac; 2.  It is very noisy and I need to wear
hearing protection when using it; 3. The cord is very short and it
cannot be used without an extension cord; 4. When the relative humidity
is low in the winter dust sticks to the plastic outside of the vacuum,
in fact it nearly coats the outside.  I believe I paid about $80 for
this vacuum from Seven Corners Hardware, Minn.  This is my opinion.
Suggest looking carefully at various models before purchasing one.
Also, you may wish to consider a dust collector if it is to be used to
remove large amounts of waste.  Roger Barry
Organization: Masters student, Architecture, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 14:28:56 -0400 
From: "Peter B. Behrens" <pb00+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: furniture design books

Excerpts from netnews.rec.woodworking: 24-Sep-92 furniture design books
by richard.ramos@cbnewsj.cb 
>Can anyone recommend books on furniture design? ...
>
>If I had a book which described and analyzed table designs I could probably 
>come up with a satisfactory (i.e., simple and good looking) design.  I
>like the scandanavian look but I haven't seen any books on this.
> 
>Can anyone help me with a good book?  It doesn't have to be on scandanavian
>styles but it wouldn't hurt.  I've heard chippendale designs are great but
>very complicated.  Shaker designs are simple but not what I was looking for.
> 
>Thanks in advance
>Rich Ramos

There is an excellent book which was recommended to me in a furniture
design course I took at Indiana University of Pennsylvania's satellite
program at the Pittsburgh Center for the Arts:  "DESIGNING FURNITURE -
from concept to shop drawing: a practical guide; author - Seth Stem;
publisher - The Taunton Press (of Fine Woodworking fame); copyright -
1989.

The book is primarily about design, and definitely not about reproducing
historical styles.

The book is available at bookstores, direct from the publisher and, most
likely, in better libraries.

- Peter Behrens 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: markv@lugh.se.hou.compaq.com (Mark Vaughan)
Subject: Biscuit Joiners
Organization: Compaq Computer Corporation
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 14:35:59 GMT

I'm sorry if this borders on a FAQ, but I am looking for one of these, and
would like to get opinions from present owners.  I'm specifically looking at
the Skil 1605-02, the Freud JS100, and the Ryobi JM100.  Also, if there is a 
review of said joiners in one of the mags, please let me know, but don't let
that stop you from commenting :-).  If there is enough interest, I'll post.

Thanks,
Mark


% Mark Vaughan     	      Anything I do of value belongs to my employer. %
% (markv@lugh.compaq.com)     Everything else (such as opinions) I get to    %
% Compaq Computer Corp.	      keep.  It's all in the contract.		     %
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bellas@soldev.TTI.COM (Pete Bellas)
Subject: Close call with a stain rag...
Reply-To: bellas@soldev.TTI.COM (Pete Bellas)
Organization: Transaction Technology, Inc.
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 17:03:56 GMT

My wife worked Sunday refinishing our oak entry doors and had applied the
stain rubbed on with a rag.  When she was finished she stuffed the rag
along with some other stuff she was cleaning up into a plastic flower pot
and threw it in the trash can.  We began smelling something around bedtime
and decided to investigate.  When we got to the garage we found it filled 
with smoke and an almost completely consumed burning rag in the plastic pot. 
She moved the trash out into the driveway and I extinguised it with a hose.

This was a little too close for me, we were lucky in that there was nothing
to support compustion in close vicinity to the rag, but there could have 
been :-(.  My wife wife was unaware of the "rags in a metal can" rule and I
was probably lax as well, no more.

Also it's time to get a smoke detecter for the garage (with a remote sounder
too!).

			-Pete-

ps. Anyone care to enlighten me on the exact process of Spontaneous 
    Combustion?

* Pete Bellas                   "Cogito ergo spud"                         *
* Citicorp/TTI                       I think therefore I yam.              *
* Santa Monica, CA                                                         *
* bellas@gamma.tti.com                                                     *
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking