HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us (Joseph Nathan Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Xylitol info
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 92 11:03:57 EDT
Organization: 5 Sigma Software
Reply-To: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us
X-Mailer: uAccess - Macintosh Release: 1.5v5


In article <1992Dec20.022733.1912@news.columbia.edu> (rec.crafts.brewing), pcj1@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu (Pierre Jelenc) writes:
) >
) >) Many of these same people claimed to prefer xylitol or
) >) sorbitol too, but I *think* that both of these sugar/alcohols are not
) >) metabolized by humans either, i.e. they could cause the same symptoms as
) >) lactose in intolerant individuals.
) >
) >Doubt it.  Any doctors about?
) >
)  Not an MD but I'm pretty sure that sorbitol and xylitol cause intestinal
) distress and diarrhea in moderate amounts. Small quantities as used in
) chewing gum or cough drops are well tolerated.

I suppose it was someone on the mead digest list who volunteered that
he liked to use xylitol, but it was hard to find ... wonder if he
is, er, regular ...

Oh, well ...

Can anyone quantify the amounts of sorbitol and xylitol it takes to
produce these symptoms?

================O Fortuna, velut Luna, statu variabilis================
uunet!joebloe!joseph   (609) 273-8200 day   joseph%joebloe@uunet.uu.net
2102 Ryan's Run East        Rt 38 & 41             Maple Shade NJ 08052
Copyright 1992 by Joseph N. Hall.   Permission granted to copy and
redistribute freely over USENET and by email.  Commercial use prohibited.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: andy rogers <rogers@ial3.jsc.nasa.gov>
Subject: aeration of wort
X-Xxdate: Wed, 16 Dec 92 14:17:32 GMT
Organization: Lockheed Engineering
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d13
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 14:24:39 GMT

From: Mark Lundquist, mark@verdix.com
Date: 16 Dec 92 00:10:43 GMT
In article <9261@verdix.verdix.com> Mark Lundquist, mark@verdix.com writes:
>In article <1992Dec15.171346.10670@minnow.sp.unisys.com> ralph@minnow.UUCP 
>(Ralph Smith) writes:
>>I have been wondering about this aeration thing for some time now.
>>A few years ago, I was setting up a marine aquarium and the general
>>feeling at that time was that the bubblers in a tank provide virtually
>>no aeration of significance, and that the bulk of the aeration effect was
>>at the water/air interface on the surface of the tank.
>>So, my question is:
>>Whats all this about shaking and stirring your wort? According to the
>>aquarists(?) we're just fooling ourselves.
>>Is the real benefit just the mixing action with the yeast, exposing it   
>>to all that good wort faster?
>>Or - are the aquarium folks all wet?
>
>Well, even if the aquarium folks are right about "aquarium bubbler vs.
>no bubbler", I don't know if you can extrapolate that to "sloshing,
>etc. vs. doing nothing."  I assume that fish lovers have other reasons
>for not wanting to subject their fishtanks to the same treatment that
>is recommended for carboys full of wort (i.e., shake the bejabbers out
>of it)!  In other words, if the "aquarians" are right it would only
>mean that putting an aquarium pump in your wort (don't laugh) won't
>help; not *necessarily* that sloshing, etc. won't.


brewers and aquarists are both right. if you pay close attention to what the
aquarists say, the benefit from the aeration stones comes in causing the water
in the tank to be circulated thus exposing more of the water molecules to the
surface where it becomes aerated. sloshing your beer does much the same thing,
though quicker than a stone with an air pump. you'd have to wait a
godawfulmighty long time to aerate your wort if you're trying to gentle with
the fish in it. the point with the aquarium is that constant circulation
continuously re-aerates the water 'breathed' by the fish. it doesn't have to
be quick, just fast enough so the fishies don't suffocate.

aNDY
----
Xref: sparky rec.crafts.brewing:7674 alt.beer:7870
From: alh@tekig1.PEN.TEK.COM (Al Hooton)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Gleaming immersion chiller
Date: 16 Dec 92 00:39:28 GMT
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Beaverton,  OR.

>I also get bright shiny copper after cooling my wort in a stainless steel pot.
>I believe that the acidic wort is actually removing some of the copper just 
>as you would in dipping a copper penney in nitric acid. Perhaps stainless 
>steel tubing would be a better material for wort chillers. Does anyone know a 
>good source of SS tubing $$^(?

	Hmmm... bending SS tubing seems a *lot* harder than bending copper
tubing.  Lots of different characteristics.  Obviously, it can be done,
but not with a simple $5.95 spring-style tubing bender (which is what
I bend copper tubing with).  I imagine that the expense of the SS tubing
to begin with, plus the expense of special tools, would probably place
this outside the realm of fiscal responsibility (of course, we'd better
not start using fiscal responsibility to justify the better things in
life... :-)).

	Anybody actually have first-hand experience with bending SS
tubing?  I've only ever seen it done, and not for very long at that.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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 Universe was created.                            |     Telecom Products
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: ulick@bernini.helios.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford)
Subject: Re: POUNDERS vs REGULAR BOTTLES
Organization: OUC, University of Notre Dame
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 17:52:56 GMT

In article <1992Dec10.204612.25799@i88.isc.com> jeq@i88.isc.com (Jonathan E. Quist) writes:
>In article <1992Dec9.220343.8825@philabs.philips.com> jpc@philabs.philips.com (John P. Curcio;6442;3.55;) writes:
>>In article <ibiggs.15@fox.nstn.ns.ca> ibiggs@fox.nstn.ns.ca (Kevin Crawford) writes:
>>
>>>I bottle in 12 oz. glass bottles (341 mL for Canadians on the net) and I 
>>>also use the 2L plastic pop bottles from time to time, and what I've noticed 
>>>is that the beer is much more carbonated in the 2L bottle as compared the 
>>>regular beer bottles.
>>
>>Flame me for being a stickler, but 12 oz. is equal to 355 ml (341
>>ml=11.5 oz.)  In other words, for every case of Molson or Labatt's you
>>buy (if you were to-- purely hypothetical on my part), you were gypped
>>(sp?) out of 1 beer.  It used to matter in my college days, back when
>>Molson was considered GREAT...
>
>Maybe he's using Imperial milliliters...

Maybe it was imperial fuid ounces.  An imperial fluid ounce is ~.96
of a US fluid ounce (calibrated at a differnent temperatrure).  So
12 oz (imp) is, guess what, 341 ml.  This conversion applies to all 
volume measurment.  While a pint and gallon (imp) are around 1.25
times the US unit, it's not that much because of the differnece in fluid
ounces.  It is actually 1.2.  IE when you want to work out how much 
more gasoline/petrol is in UK or Ireland, divide price by 1.2 rather than
1.25 and get even more depressed :-).


+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 
+ 'There was a  master come unto the earth, + Ulick Stafford, PP-ASEL       +
+    born in the holy land of Indiana,      + Dept of Chemical Engineering, +
+ in the mystical hills east of Fort Wayne'.+ Notre Dame, IN 46556          +
+      B'fhearr liom bheith ag eitilt.      +    ulick@bach.helios.nd.edu   +
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From: pyle@intellistor.com (Norm Pyle)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: mashing
Date: 18 Dec 92 14:37:33 GMT
Distribution: all
Organization: Intellistor, Longmont, CO

In article <Bz7yzG.82B@mentor.cc.purdue.edu> esharp@sage.cc.purdue.edu (The Baker) writes:
> I was wondering after reading Line's book why I don't hear of infusion
>mashing very much.  It looks like the pefect mash-style for the 
>relax-don't worry.... athmosphere, and the results he gives appear to be
>in line with the more complex systems.  Just a passing idea...

I think most homebrewers infusion mash.  Decoction mashing is probably fairly
rair in the amateur ranks although not altogether absent.  As far as "more
complex systems" I think you are referring to step infusion mashing which is
not a big deal.  This is what Charlie P. talks about, at least in the old
version of his book.  It is not complicated though; it only involves a couple
of different temperatures and there are several ways to accomplish this.

You may also be referring to the myriad of lauter tuns and sparging
techniques.  There is truly a continuum of methods for removing the sugars
from your grain; it becomes a near religious discussion.

In summary, you and Line are correct:  it's a great way to go all-grain.

Norm
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: ulick@bernini.helios.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford)
Subject: Re: How do I grind???
Organization: OUC, University of Notre Dame
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 18:03:55 GMT

In article <1992Dec10.235129.9677@galileo.cc.rochester.edu> awds_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Adam Edwards) writes:
>I just ordered the ingredients for my second through sixth batches
>of homebrew yesterday.  My first batch was great, but it went
>too fast :(.  Some of the recipes call for cracking of malts and
>adding them to the pre-boiled wort.  
>
>Can I use a gourmet coffee bean grinder for this?  I know flour is
>not the desired result, but how fine can the grains be ground?  Just
>a few seconds in the bean mill might work?
>If I try this, what will happen to the contaminated dust of dread that
>is said to infect wort?  This is a small, grinder with a transparent plastic
>dome lid over the grinding chamber, and this dust will just stay with
>the remains.  Any ideas?  
>Thanks
'
Memories of my only partial mash brew milling a mush in the liquidizer!
The best way of milling small quantities of grain for partial mashes
when you don't have a malt or grain mill is the old Charlie mewthod of
a rolling pin in a Zip-lok (TM) bag.  Using a coffee grinder will
be hell with your sparge.


+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 
+ 'There was a  master come unto the earth, + Ulick Stafford, PP-ASEL       +
+    born in the holy land of Indiana,      + Dept of Chemical Engineering, +
+ in the mystical hills east of Fort Wayne'.+ Notre Dame, IN 46556          +
+      B'fhearr liom bheith ag eitilt.      +    ulick@bach.helios.nd.edu   +
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: larry@physics.carleton.ca
Subject: Re: Brewing, other things besides beer
Organization: Dept. of Physics/CRPP Carleton University
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 20:12:49 GMT


 trwagner@bronze.ucs.indiana.edu (Me!! Ted.) wrote:
In article <1992Dec14.100321.9549@ac.dal.ca> ech@ac.dal.ca writes:

>>  If alcohol causes the symptoms, then all booze is
>>out.  I don't see any way in which beer may be singled out as the only
>>culprit.  

>	I still question this too, but as I said, the result of me
>drinking beer is that I am unable to walk, at all, without severe pain
>in my feet.
>
>	Now, a lot of people have suggested I try mead.  The thought
>intrigues me highly.  I would like some feedback from those readers
>who have made mead.  
>	I have a few questions ...
	
Ever think of making cider?  I've never tasted it myself but I have a friend
who makes it and he says its wonderful.

Cheers,

Larry

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us (Joseph Nathan Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Fruit Flies
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 92 01:54:42 EDT
Organization: 5 Sigma Software
Reply-To: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us
X-Mailer: uAccess - Macintosh Release: 1.5v5


In article <1992Dec14.220628.14662@pbhyf.PacBell.COM> (rec.crafts.brewing), malodah@pbhyf.PacBell.COM (Martin A. Lodahl) writes:
) In article <ibiggs.17@fox.nstn.ns.ca> ibiggs@fox.nstn.ns.ca (Kevin Crawford) writes:
) 
) [ About a batch of beer that may have come in contact with fruit flies ]
) 
) >What is likely going to happen to my beer?
) 
) Fruit flies are known vectors of acetic acid bacteria.  That's why 
) spiders are encouraged in lambik breweries.
) 
) >What can I do to eliminate the fruit fly factor in brewing?
) 
) Fermenting in a carboy can't hurt.  But there are certain phases where
) it's difficult to avoid the little rascals altogether.  This procedure
) might work:

Always keep caps on your airlocks.  If vinegar flies get into an airlock
(usually drowning) the infection can spread into your beer.  Traditionally
glycerine is used to fill airlocks that are in place for "the long
haul," i.e., secondaries containing wine or mead, or perhaps barleywine.

Meanwhile, if you think your beer has been infected by acetobacter,
drink it pretty quickly and don't expose it to air during bottling
if possible.  Acetobacter is aerobic.

uunet!joebloe!joseph   (609) 273-8200 day   joseph%joebloe@uunet.uu.net
2102 Ryan's Run East        Rt 38 & 41             Maple Shade NJ 08052
Copyright 1992 by Joseph N. Hall.   Permission granted to copy and
redistribute freely over USENET and by email.  Commercial use prohibited.
From: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us (Joseph Nathan Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Marmite [Re: feeding yeast with yeast]
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 92 19:58:43 EDT
Organization: 5 Sigma Software
Reply-To: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us
X-Mailer: uAccess - Macintosh Release: 1.5v5


In article <1992Dec16.034727.12389@hopduvel.uucp> (rec.crafts.brewing), johnd@hopduvel.uucp (Hopduvel) writes:
) In article <9254@verdix.verdix.com> mark@verdix.com (Mark Lundquist) writes:
) >Anyway, from what I understand this stuff to be (dead yeast), it would
) >seem to be the same as the "yeast energizer" that is sold in homebrew
) >shops.  Looks the same, smells the same, but it's a lot cheaper.
) >
) >Does anybody know whether it is in fact the same stuff?
) 
) I used to buy brewers yeast to use as a vitamin supplement (now I
) get it fresh from the bottle:) and it doesnt look like my yeast
) energizer. 

What about using Marmite, or Vege?mite for those of you Down Under?

Scary, isn't it, the thought of a nation where kids are brought up
eating Vegemite instead of peanut butter?

=======================================================================
uunet!joebloe!joseph   (609) 273-8200 day   joseph%joebloe@uunet.uu.net
2102 Ryan's Run East        Rt 38 & 41             Maple Shade NJ 08052
Copyright 1992 by Joseph N. Hall.   Permission granted to copy and
redistribute freely over USENET and by email.  Commercial use prohibited.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: pmk@moliere.uucp (Peter Michael Klausler)
Subject: Re: Beginning Brewer
Organization: Lilydale DFL Refreshments Committee & Rhythm Section
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 05:51:37 GMT

In article <724402575.F00001@tdkt.kksys.com> Ewan.Grantham@f62.n282.z1.tdkt.kksys.com (Ewan Grantham) writes:
>... My main concern is that according to the 
>directions, I should bottle next week (no big deal) and leave at around 
>70F, and then I gather I should move the bottles to a 50F area for three 
>weeks. The problem is - no 50F area. Our basement is finished and heated. 
>What will the effect of the higher temp. be? Would I be better off putting 
>bottles in shed outdoors (20-30F here in Minnesota)?

Put the beer in the coolest place of your home, and it'll do fine. I have
won prizes with beers fermented here in my basement-free apartment at
65-70F. Fermentation temperature is nowhere near as important as sanitation,
which should be your prime concern as a new brewer.

>One other thing, from my reading, I gather that yeast in the bottom of the 
>bottle is inevitable. Is it? How do the commercial breweries and 
>microbreweries avoid this?

If you bottle after a secondary fermentation, there won't be much yeast
sediment. Homebrew should always be poured into a glass or pitcher for
serving, anyway. Commercial breweries use nifty filtration systems. If you're
in the Mpls./St. Paul metro area, go visit Summit Brewing some Saturday
afternoon and you'll see how that works.
-- 
________________________________________________________________________________

"Omit needless words."                 Peter Klausler - pmk%moliere@uunet.uu.net
From: maher@yin.ucsd.edu (Kevin Maher)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Advice sought...
Date: 14 Dec 1992 22:36:26 GMT
Organization: UC San Diego
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: yin.ucsd.edu
Originator: maher@yin


	I brewed 15 gallons last night, and I have a problem that's never 
happened to me before.  I'm at work, so I can't look this up, and I fear that
time is of the essence.  I put 1 7 oz packet of dry lager yeast in each of
the 3 5-gallon carboys, and at about 11 this morning, my roommate reported 
that there's nothing going on fermentationwise.  Questions:
	1) Should I panic now, or wait until tonight?
	2) After I panic, and a brief recovery period, what should I do?
	   
	I'm going to hit the brewstore after work, and I think I'll buy
some ale yeast because the temperature of the carboys' location is around 65
degrees farenheit, a lot warmer than I was expecting it to be.  Should I 
move them someplace colder so the lager yeast can party, or should I just
throw in some ale yeast and let them battle it out?

	Any advice would be greatly appreciated, either by reply to this 
post or by email.

	Thanks,
	Kevin Maher
From: mark@verdix.com (Mark Lundquist)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Fruit Flies
Date: 14 Dec 92 20:12:52 GMT
Article-I.D.: verdix.9253
Organization: Verdix Western Operations, Aloha  OR

In article <ibiggs.17@fox.nstn.ns.ca> ibiggs@fox.nstn.ns.ca (Kevin Crawford) writes:
>I brewed a batch of beer last week, and during the primary fermentation, the 
>garbage bag on tied on top of the bucket came off and was sitting for some 
>period of time (no longer than 12 hours).  When I noticed the condition of 
>the brew, it already had 15-20 fruit flies hovering over it.  Though I didn'
>t see any inside the beer, it wouldn't suprise me if a couple enjoyed a 
>foamy death ( what a way to go).
>

Relax, don't worry, have another toothpick! :-)

>What can I do to eliminate the fruit fly factor in brewing?

Since you can't really eliminate yeast from your brewing -- the
little buggers feed on yeast -- I suggest a Sears No-Pest Strip.

If that doesn't work, you might as well be a decent host and set out
some pretzels or peanuts for them.

You might take this as a sign to switch to carboys.

Related story: in college one year I had a roommate who put some
bananas in our refrigerator, causing them to turn black in less than a
day.  Then, being too lazy to take them out to the garbage, he tossed
those black bananas in his wastepaper basket, whereupon our room was
invaded by fruit flies.  The fruit flies hung around long after the
bananas were removed.  The moral of the story is that they seem to be
a lot harder to get rid of than they are to aquire, just like...<you
fill in the blank>.

But once you're rid of them, I think you should be OK as long as you
are careful to clean up any spills and splatters.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jim@thor.albany.edu (SCHLEMMER JAMES A)
Subject: Vodka found to be a pretty good tube clener
Organization: State University of New York at Albany
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 92 20:34:56 GMT

I know there's been lots of discussion in the past regarding
agents and methods for plastic tube cleaning.  The problem
of getting that beer smell out of the tube was one that I've
never quite been able to beat.  I've tried soaking in a 
strong bleach solution, boiling water, and hooking the hose
up to my bottle washer for some high speed flushing but 
I still always have that hint of beer smell and usually a
clouded tube to boot.  I'm pretty certain that two back-to-
back brews were infected as a result of a dirty racking
hose.  I replaced that grungy hose and my beer is back on 
track again.  However, I know that I will have to be a little
more festidious about tube cleanliness in the future.

To that end, I was cleaning up last night and spied a bottle
of cheapo vodka on top of my fridge.  So I gets to thinkin'
Hey, vodka's a pretty good sanitizer.  So I diluted a couple
of shots worth in about a quart of water and coiled my hose
up in it, being careful to get all the air out.  I let it
set for a few hours and when I pulled it out and rinsed it off,
there was no beer aroma whatsoever.  While I'm not a bacteriologist,
my plastic tube rule is odor => bacteria.

I know that even cheap vodka isn't a very cost effective 
sanitizer but when you consider the price you pay for a 4 ft.
length of hose at the brewer's supply store and what you pay,
in terms of lost time *and* materials, for a bad batch of beer,
well, the cost doesn't bug me so much.  

Any comments?

Jim

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: ddickey@aspen34.cray.com (Dan A. Dickey)
Subject: Summary: Dry Yeast vs. Liquid Yeast
Originator: ddickey@aspen34
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 15 Dec 92 09:45:02 CST


To summarize the responses I received from my question
about the differences between Dry Yeast & Liquid Yeast;
I'd say:

The advantage of Liquid Yeast over Dry yeast is that for
more money, you get a lower chance of infection by something nasty.

End of summarization.	:-)

	-Dan

-- 
---------
Dan A. Dickey      ddickey@cray.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing