HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: christos@wucs1.wustl.edu (Christos Papadopoulos)
Subject: Re: Oil in Air Filter
Organization: Washington University, St. Louis MO
Distribution: na
Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1992 19:02:46 GMT

In article <BuL8p9.CBy@cs.dal.ca> gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca (Andy) writes:
>Hi there,
>	One sunny day I cleaned my engine and decided to take a peak into the
>air filter. It was replaced about 3 months ago. When I opened it up, the filter
>was black. On the bottom of the filter box, was a thin layer of oil. I cleaned
>it all out, and then inspected the top cover. It seems that the oil was
>dripping down from the cover on to the air filter. On top of the cover is all
>those silver fuel lines and the fuel injection system (I think).
>
>	Anyway, it is an '85 GTI and has 128K on it. It driven very hard
>and the rev limiter gets activated about once a week. Just recently I pulled
>out pin 11 from the computer and I have a slight nock. The ignition timing
>will be checked tomorrow in order to fix the knock. The oil if fine and the
>coolant level was just below the min mark. It is now filled up.
>
>	I think that the oil got in through the air intakes when the rev
>limiter kicks in. Can anyone confirm this? Or if it is something else could
>you please let me know and a suggestion on fixing it.
>
>	Thank you in advance,
>	ANdy
>-- 
>---....-------------****----*******-) GTI FUN-atic                      o  
>--. \/ .-----GTI---******--*********)         Don't forget to bike:     ,-\
>--.\/\/.-----------******--*********)  (and sail and windsurf and ski)  0\-0
>---....-------------****----*******-) gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca,goaway@ac.dal.ca

	I have a similar "problem" in my 84 GLI, athough it is not as severe
as Andy's. My air filter simply had a stain of oil, but I never hit redline
when I drive. Is this something we should worry about? Please help!

Christos.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mike@mote.Berkeley.EDU (Mike Friedrich)
Subject: Re: Oil in Air Filter
Summary: Blowby; worn piston rings
Organization: University of California at Berkeley
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 06:54:42 GMT

In article <BuL8p9.CBy@cs.dal.ca> gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca (Andy) writes:
>Hi there,
>	One sunny day I cleaned my engine and decided to take a peak into the
>air filter. It was replaced about 3 months ago. When I opened it up, the filter
>was black. On the bottom of the filter box, was a thin layer of oil. I cleaned
>it all out, and then inspected the top cover. It seems that the oil was
>dripping down from the cover on to the air filter. On top of the cover is all
>those silver fuel lines and the fuel injection system (I think).
>
>	Anyway, it is an '85 GTI and has 128K on it. It driven very hard
>and the rev limiter gets activated about once a week. Just recently I pulled
>out pin 11 from the computer and I have a slight nock. The ignition timing
>will be checked tomorrow in order to fix the knock. The oil if fine and the
>coolant level was just below the min mark. It is now filled up.
>
>	I think that the oil got in through the air intakes when the rev
>limiter kicks in. Can anyone confirm this? Or if it is something else could
>you please let me know and a suggestion on fixing it.
>
>	ANdy

Sounds like blowby; the piston rings are worn and are allowing oil from the
crankcase into the cylinders.  The oil vapors make their way back through
the intake system, condense on the cooler upstream parts, and drip onto the
air filter.  Another symptom is blue smoke out of the tailpipe when
decelerating from high speed.  If your engine burns a lot of oil then you
might need to rebuild it.

Most likely, the mass airflow sensor plate (just above the air filter), and
the butterfly valves (at the upstream end of the intake plenum) are covered
with oily grime and should be gingerly wiped clean.  Also check the spark
plugs.  Furthermore, the worn rings are also allowing gasoline to mix into
the oil, so you should change your oil frequently.  E-mail me for details.

Mike
mike@mote.berkeley.edu
From: greis@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Gayla Ann Greis)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Wanted - fiberglass top for VW Thing
Date: 27 Sep 1992 23:11:45 GMT
Organization: Computing Services Division, University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
Distribution: ca
NNTP-Posting-Host: 129.89.7.4

In article <1992Sep27.175912.21276@CSD-NewsHost.Stanford.EDU> cummins@eclipse.stanford.edu (Dave Cummins) writes:
>Fat chance, huh?  Thought I would try anyway.

How about a roll bar? I could *REALLY* use one of those for a Thing... :-)



Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: finnegan@invader.navo.navy.mil (Kenneth Finnegan)
Subject: Re: ** INFO ON VW CORRADO V6 **
Nntp-Posting-Host-[nntpd-7841]: invader.navo.navy.mil
Reply-To: finnegan@navo.navy.mil
Organization: Grumman Data Systems	
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 14:16:11 GMT

In article <T2kVRB2w164w@cellar.org>, blu@cellar.org (Dan Reed) writes:
|> 
|> I find it annoying, I have installed a manual switch on mine, I hate the 
|> power loss.  Heated air has almost 0 humidity in it anyway.  I know WHY VW 
|> did it tho.  Most cars do this, because in the winter your A/C 
|> compressor/guts dont get used.  Thus over the winter, many older A/C units 
|> went bad, or had problems due to lack of use.  The compressor would sit all 
|> winter long, with no oil/use.  Come the first say of summer, folks would find 
|> that thier A/C had gotten water in the system, lost oil or lost a charge due 
|> to lack of use.  Thus they (car makers) have hooked it up to your defroster, 
|> that you use in the winter.  Its not so much to help the defroster, but to 
|> keep your A/C working.

I disagree.  VW addressed the compressor non-usage problem by putting
the AC settings in between the vent/htr and full OFF positions, forcing
the user to pass through the settings every time the lever is moved from
OFF to HEAT and vice versa.  All it takes is a momentary kick to the
compressor to keep it nice and lubed.

Down here (New Orleans area) the defroster is useless 90% of the time
unless the compressor is on as well.  I know, because our Honda had
that annoying Honda dealer-installed air, and I had to manually press
the compressor button every time I turned the defroster on.  If I
didn't, the windshield would never get cleared.  It's tough for a 
defroster to operate in an environment where the humidity is 99% in
winter or summer.

|>  Dan Reed (Blu-Max) blu@cellar.org - AutoCad Geek - VW Lover - InlineSkater 
|> 68 Cougar XR-7, 89 VW Golf, 72 Honda CL360Twin, Ti/99/4a, Vextrex, Timex

Kenneth Finnegan
finnegan@navo.navy.mil  - No Stuff, Just Debt -
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: cjordan@cheshire.oxy.edu (Charles Jordan)
Subject: Re: source for 1 3/4" bug radios???
Keywords: radio
Organization: Occidental College, Los Angeles, CA 90041 USA.
Distribution: USA
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1992 04:28:59 GMT

I had a problem finding a radio that would fit and finally found one that 
did...  But it was a little big in the back and eventually I had serious     
electrical problems....

The guy at the place said that it is always better if you just put the radio
in the glove compartment... For security reasons and for general siza    
considerations...  

--- Just a thought...



-- 
[Charles Jordan     Box 407 =========][ Lackland's Laws: ===================]
[Occidental College =================][ === 1. Never be first. =============]
[1600 Campus Road ===================][ === 2. Never be last. ==============]
[Los Angeles, California   90041 ====][ === 3. Never volunteer for anything.]
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rweiers@nyx.cs.du.edu (ron weiers)
Subject: Seeking Golf Diesel 2D 5Sp Sunroof
Organization: Nyx, Public Access Unix @ U. of Denver Math/CS dept.
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 92 19:11:25 GMT




Hi

I'm looking for a pampered '85/86 Golf Diesel 2D 5Sp with
factory sunroof. Excellent body and mechanics are important,
but color and A/C are not. Am willing to travel a thousand
miles or so from the Pittsburgh (Pa.) area for the right car.
If you happen to have one that you like, but need to sell,
you can be assured that it will get an excellent home with
a longtime VW enthusiast. Please E-mail.
Thanks!
Ron Weiers
From: sylveste@ecs.umass.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: 84 Audi Engine Mount replacement @ 72K Miles
Date: 4 Oct 92 15:27:35 GMT
Distribution: usa

In article <1992Oct3.205526.27857@cbnews.cb.att.com>, skchen@cbnews.cb.att.com (scott.k.chen) writes:
> Hello Netters,
> 
> I have a 1984 Audi 5000S 5-banger.
> During the last trip to the local mechanic he told me that one of the engine 
  mounts needs to be replaced because the rubber parts are "crushed"..
> 
> The car is still riding on original shocks and struts, but it still rides 
  fine. The ride is on the firm side, but that is the way German cars are made.
> The mechanic is also suggesting that both shocks & struts be replace.
> 
> This car is 8 years old and only has about 72K miles. We're the original
> owner of the car, so no abuse has been done...
> 
> Is this what I should expect from this car?  Are there other owners of
> Audi's that have some  similar experience to share??
> 
> Since this  repair will probably require extensive labor (about 3 hours)
> I'm not going to attempt it, but I would like to get some second opinions
> on how to identify if the engine mount is indeed worn or broke.
> 
> The car engine does not shake excessively when idleing (the only time when
> I can leave the hood open and see it.)  Does this problem has to do with
> the 5-cylinder configuration???
>


Scott,
      First of all which of the mounts said to be worn out?  There is one on
either side of the engine and one in the front.  The ones on the sides hold
the engine in place and the one in the front keeps the front of the engine 
from tilting up.  There are also two mounts on the transmission.
      These mounts do wear out but if you can't feel any movement of the
drivetrain under full acceleration they are probably OK.  To check you can take
a pry bar and test the mount by prying the engine over, but be careful not to
pry against anything delicate.  I would be willing to bet that your struts are 
worn out though.  You think that the car drives OK because you are used to it.  
      Also, I don't think that it takes 3hrs to change a motor mount.  The
hardest one to change is the one on the right side.  It is the most difficult
because it is hidden under the intake manifold.  Changing that mount should not
take more than 1hr 30m.  Maybe in the worst case where all of the bolts were
difficult to remove and some parts got damaged in the process it might take
that long.
      There is no problem with the five cylinder configuration, it runs
excellent.


                                            Mike Sylvester  Umass
                                            sylveste@ecs.umass.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: garrett@Ingres.COM (QUOTE OF THE YEAR)
Subject: Re: My VW Horror stories
Summary: Don't ya just Luv it  
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.4-b1  
Keywords: 
Organization: ASK Computer Systems, Ingres Product Division
Date: 29 Sep 92 22:49:32 GMT

In article <1992Sep29.101652.1@ulkyvx.louisville.edu>, pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu    writes...

>changes on my mom's '72 Impala (the Army actually rejected this as a design for
>the M1 Tank) 

Really! I'm not doubting it, just wondered where you heard it.
> 
>look at it, and when he said, "Try to start it, we'll see what it sounds like,"
>it started right up!

Join the club. My bug has done that not once, but twice. The last time was
two weeks ago after I conned a professional mechanic, who was my neighbor,
into helping me. After he gave up I started it.

>A new clutch cable was no fun to put in.  Second greasiest job in the world
>after CV joint repacking.  :-(
>
I think I need to do this to my bug. Can you give a few tips on the
best way to get at them and things to watch out for? 

>Oh, and I spent $250 on tires and parts Saturday in an attempt to get an
>extension for my '66 bus.  How many people do you know that have 2 carbs, 3
>distributors and a muffler in their bedroom?

My roommate just got done rebuilding his 73' VW bus engine in his 
bedroom. For about 2 weeks the west side of his room was dedicated to
it. (the problem was a two-piece sleeve around the crankshaft at the
base of the piston arm had rolled up on itself and welded itself to
the crankshaft)

  I guess I just need horsepower to
>get performance in bed :-)

If it helps don't knock it. In fact if it helps let me know. I'll turn
my bedroom into an auto parts store; really impress the women.

-Garrett
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: geer@world.std.com (Dan Geer)
Subject: roof drains on 78 bus
Summary: how to
Keywords: fix
Organization: The World @ Software Tool & Die
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 14:21:14 GMT

How to unclog roof drains on sunroof 78 bus
and its kin:

Go to the self service car wash.
Open the sun roof.
Take the high pressure sprayer and jam it
	into the roof drains at the two front
	corners of the sun roof opening.  Pull
	the trigger.  Water should exit from
	the bottom of the door post just
	behind the wheel well.
For the rear drains, you have to go retro,
	jamming the hose into the outlet of
	the drain, which is just under the 
	rain gutter inside the air housing
	high and to the rear of the bus.  The
	short little plastic tubes will be
	obvious if you look.

This works.  It is a bit messy as the high
pressure will go somewhere and, at first, that
may not be where you want.  If, however, you 
have clogged drains, you already know that 
everytime it rains you can expect an internal
flood.

Cheers.

--dan
From: skchen@cbnews.cb.att.com (scott.k.chen)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: 84 Audi Engine Mount replacement @ 72K Miles
Summary: Engine Mount Replacement
Date: 3 Oct 92 20:55:26 GMT
Article-I.D.: cbnews.1992Oct3.205526.27857
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T

Hello Netters,

After reading this sig for a while, I now feel comfortable to try to ask
some questions regarding my car.  I have a 1984 Audi 5000S 5-banger.
During the last trip to the local machanic to replace a slightly ripped CV
boot, he told me that one of the engine mounts needs to be replaced because
the rubber parts are "crushed"..

Some more information that may be the cause -- I am not sure...  The car
is still riding on original shocks and struts, but it still rides fine.
The ride is on the firm side, but that is the way German cars are made.
The mechanic is also suggesting that both shocks & struts be replace.

This car is 8 years old and only has about 72K miles. We're the original
owner of the car, so no abuse has been done...

Is this what I should expect from this car?  Are there other owners of
Audi's that have some  similar experience to share??

Since this  repair will probably require extensive labor (about 3 hours)
I'm not going to attempt it, but I would like to get some second opinions
on how to identify if the engine mount is indeed worn or broke.

The car engine does not shake excessively when idleing (the only time when
I can leave the hood open and see it.)  Does this problem has to do with
the 5-cylinder configuration???

Comments are welcome, E-mail or on the net.. Thanks
Reply to skchen@attmail.att.com or on the net!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: hvozda@wilbur.psu.edu (Eric Hvozda)
Subject: Re: Starter Problem with 85 Jetta
Organization: Penn State University, Center for Academic Computing
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 92 12:47:46 GMT

Had this happen to our 85 Van once.  It turned out that since the starter was
a sealed unit, the carbon from the brushes had no where to go a collected
on the field coil.  Taking th starter apart and cleaning it was the solution.

However, you may not want to do this if you don't have some knowledge of
universla motors.  Then again this is a single data point.  Starting checking
the starting system from the battery back.  See what you find...

Why do people spell `brakes' as `breaks'?  Why do people type for more than 80 columns like this without return?
Isn't it much easier to read when you hit return more often.  Bleh, I require
more sleep...

-- 
Ack!                             esh101@psuvm.psu.edu             ESH101@PSUVM
hvozda@vivaldi.psu.edu           hvozda@wilbur.psu.edu            DoD #0217
From: borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Screwy Radiator Cap
Date: 30 Sep 92 18:29:49 GMT
Article-I.D.: hpspkla.31170070
Organization: Hewlett Packard Company, Spokane, Wa.

In rec.autos.vw, mgm@royko.Chicago.COM (Marty Masters) writes:

>From time to time I have noticed a small amount of antifreeze/coolant
>escaping from the overflow tank of my 88 Fox.  It has started to become
>a bit more of a nuisance than I'd like to deal with.  I pulled the feed
>hose to the overflow tank off the radiator, blocked the fitting on the 
>radiator, and pressurized the system to find that the leak is from the
>cap (one of those threaded green plastic ones) itself.  I have talked
>with a couple of other Fox owners with the same problem.   Has anyone 
>else had trouble with this type of radiator cap?

Did it start leaking before you reached the specified pressure, or after?
If it didn't leak until you got up until about 15 psi, nothing is wrong
with the cap.  If so, you have some problem with the engine, like a
blown head gasket or cracked head.


Donald Borowski    WA6OMI    Hewlett-Packard, Spokane Division
"Angels are able to fly because they take themselves so lightly."
                                       -G.K. Chesterton
From: schilit@parc.xerox.com (Bill Schilit)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: source for 1 3/4" bug radios???
Keywords: VW bug radio
Date: 28 Sep 92 16:59:55 GMT
Article-I.D.: parc.1992Sep28.165955.5156
Reply-To: schilit@parc.xerox.com (Bill Schilit)
Organization: Xerox PARC

I'm trying to find an AM/FM (maybe tape) radio to replace an old AM
radio in my 73 bug.  However, the height of the old radio is 1 3/4"
inch and the standard height now seems to be 2".  Does anyone know a
source for bug compatible radios?

- Bill

--
From: lewf@newton.ccs.tuns.ca (Fred Lew)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Dealer Service Manual for 86 Scirocco OK?
Date: 1 Oct 92 00:14:11 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Technical University of Nova Scotia, Halifax, N.S.

Hi, I just bought an 86 Scirocco a couple of months ago.  This is
my first VW product.

I was wondering if it is worth while to buy the service manual
from the dealer($52) or some others i.e. Haynes etc?  I would like
to know from people how good those service manuals are.

If you email me, I will summarize and post.

Thanks in advance.
Fred
To each their own...........
From: cdg@sei.cmu.edu (Craig Gary)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Lots o' Wheels
Date: 28 Sep 92 21:01:32 GMT
Organization: Software Engineering Institute


	*The following wheels will work on any water cooled VW [with
	 the exception of the Corrado SLC and Vanagon Wasserboxer ;-)]

	*They will also work on any car with a 4-bolt 100mm hub.  These
	 include Honda (most models), BMW (3-series, 2002....), Omni GLH
	 Mazda (Miata and possibly others), and any Audi 4-bolts before
	 they switched to 108mm. 


	For Sale:  1. 	Original one piece BBS alloys from '91 
		      	GLi 16v. (Silver 15")  They have 185/55/15
		      	VR-rated Michelin MXV2 tires with about 
		      	half the original tread.  They are in 
		      	perfect condition.
			   $725/set obo

		   		
	     .....SOLD  '83/'84 GTi type alloys (14", met. gray 
			background) from '89 cabriolet.  They 
			have 185/60/14 HR-rated Firestone Firehawk
			GTX tires with about half the original tread 
			also.  They are in excellent condition.
			   

		    3.  '86 GTi 14" alloys.  Same style as '83/'84 GTi wheel,
			but entire wheel is silver, and they have center
			caps that cover the lug bolts.  Wheels are in 
		    	good shape, but the 185/60/14 tires are done.  
			   $250/set obo 
			
   		    4.  '85 Omni GLH 15" alloys.  Machined aluminum finish.
			Correct offset for VW.  Nice/different looking.  
			They come with 195/50/15 tires that are pretty much
			gone.
			   $200/set obo

		    5.	And for all you GTi/GLi drivers out there with
			a bent wheel or two; 2 '84 GTi wheels with fairly 
			worn (1/4 tread) Yokahoma AVS U+4 tires, 185/60/14-HR.
			They are in very good condition. 
			   $50 each or $90/both 	
			
		    6.  Incomplete set:  3 BMW 3-series 14" alloys (the 4th 
			one resembles a square).  Correct offset for FWD cars.
			Good wheels, bad tires. 
			   $120/set obo

	Respond via email to cdg@sei.cmu.edu or call 486-9056 after 6 p.m.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: hersh@expo.lcs.mit.edu (Jay Hersh)
Subject: Reverse Light Switch transplant a success!!
Organization: X Consortium, MIT Laboratory for Computer Science
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 19:24:32 GMT


Thanks to all thosw who provided tips...
I purchased a new switch for $28, and despite the misleading/confusing
symptom of the old switch working fine when depressed by hand while
removed, the problem was indeed the switch itself and the reverse
lights now operate properly...

Now to try and low cate the fuel flow indicator.....


	JaH


--
Hopfen und Malz, Gott erhalts
From: hvozda@wilbur.psu.edu (Eric Hvozda)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Screwy Radiator Cap
Date: 30 Sep 92 23:02:53 GMT
Article-I.D.: atlantis.g?71Hl3u_9
Organization: Penn State University, Center for Academic Computing

I had this happen once.  I skrewed up and made the cap too tight.  In the 
process I put a hairline crack in the expansion tank :(

Actualy one does not have to make that cap very tight at all...

YMMV
-- 
Ack!                             esh101@psuvm.psu.edu             ESH101@PSUVM
hvozda@vivaldi.psu.edu           hvozda@wilbur.psu.edu            DoD #0217
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mike@drseus.jsc.nasa.gov (mike)
Subject: Plans for Electric VW Bug?
Organization: Lockheed Engineering & Sciences Company
Distribution: usa
Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1992 14:48:30 GMT

Has anyone seen plans for converting a VW Bug into a short-commute
electric vehicle?  It seems a flat adapter plate over the transmission
could be used to mount an electric motor driving the transaxle.  The 
motor would have to be 30 to 40 hp, up to 1800 or 3600 rpm, DC.  For
all I know, such a motor may be huge.

I'd like a way of keeping my bug, using it for my 4 mile commute, 
without dumping pounds of pollutants into the air.  When time came,
I could easily convert back to gasoline power.

Potential problems are motor size, expense, losses through the transaxle, 
and the amount of battery storage I'd need.  Since I'm only a mechanical
engineer, a kit would give me some assurance that my problems wouldn't
be fundamental.

Thanks for any replies, I'll be out of town for a couple of weeks and
I'll check back then.

Mike Ross
-- 
******************************** mike@drseus.jsc.nasa.gov *****
* Michael L. Ross/C33 | Lockheed Engineering & Sciences Co.   *
* Robotics Department | 2400 Nasa Rd. 1, Houston, TX 77062    *
*(713)333-7094 voice,(713)333-7201 fax**********boring, eh?****
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: born@scepter.raleigh.ibm.com (Christopher J. Born)
Subject: Re: Eurovan replace Vanagon?
Date: Tue, 06 Oct 92 13:04:41 GMT
News-Software: IBM OS/2 PM RN (NR/2) v0.13 by O. Vishnepolsky and R. Rogers
Reply-To: born@vnet.ibm.com (Christopher J. Born)
Organization: IBM T. J. Watson Research

In  <3789@bcstec.ca.boeing.com>  mce5921@bcstec.ca.boeing.com (Martin Emde) writes:
> Will VW continue producing vanagon campers now that the Eurovan is out?
> Is there a camper version of the Eurovan?
> 
> Any info is appreciated...
 
From what I've read about the Eurovan is that it IS THE replacement for the Vanagon.
 
There is a "weekender" version that has a pop-top sleeper, small 
refrigerator, and a few other emenities(sp?).  It is an approximately 
$2500 option.  I didn't see a stove or sink listed.  

I just read a review of it in the News & Observer (Raleigh, NC) (Dated ~10/1/92).
Overall, the reviewer was impressed, BUT felt it(Eurovan) was VERY underpowered.


> 
> Thanks,
> -Martin
> 
> 
> -- 
> Martin C Emde  <mce5921@bcstec.boeing.com>  uunet!bcstec!mce5921 
> Boeing Commercial Airplane Group - 777 Electrical Systems
> Renton, Washington  USA


--
Christopher J. Born

born@vnet.ibm.com