HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Organization: Central Michigan University
Date: Tuesday, 12 Jan 1993 15:51:08 EST
From: John Foster <32HNBAK@CMUVM.CSV.CMICH.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject:    Jeep Woes Keep-a-hitting me!

#1  Okay, here's the deal.  I changed the thermostat and it's a 180 degree
job.  There's enough coolant in the beast but the thing is my temperature
gauge never gets to where it should, it always hangs right at cold, although
it does move somewhat from where it is when the engine is off.  The lower
radiator hose never gets warm, or as warm as the upper hose does.  Is this
because it's like 25 degrees outside and the cirulation isn't there because
of the outside cold?  I drained the antifreeze and took the hoses off and
ran water through everthing and nothing's plugged.  Oh, and I'm also getting
heat from the heater core.  QUESTION:  Is this normal?  Shouldn't the temp
gauge be in the middle of Cold and Hot?  Is the temp gauge bad?

#2   I want to replace the differential fluid in the front and rear.  I
already changed the transfer case and the transmission housing fluid with the
90W gear lube stuff.  PROBLEM:  I can't find any drain plugs on the stupid
differentials.  I can find the fill holes, so is the only ANSWER to the
problem taking the covers off (to drain them) then putting on new gaskets
and filling them up??

#3  Starting problem (and this one is *really* depressing so read on only
if you want, but I've warned you.  I have a new, good starter solenoid as
well as a new starter.  Oil level is fine and connections are fine, battery
is fine, all is well EXCEPT when I go to start it.  Sometimes it doesn't
even turn over (which is quickly remedied by trying again, and then it
works) but that's not the problem.  Sometimes it sounds like the battery
is dying but it isn't, it kind of is dying for a while, then it comes to
life and the engine finally starts.  COULD the coil be bad?  Or maybe it's
the connections up in the starter switch in the steering wheel column?
Anyone with any experience with this stuff...please talk to me my boy!
I've done a lot of work on this jeep but these problems keep prevailing
and I'd like to hear some first-hand advice before I a) buy new parts,
b) give somebody money to do it when I can do it myself, c) just spend
money on something that really isn't a problem.

Why can't my jeep just work without a hitch??  OH, I'm going to buy some
new shocks and I have a choice between hydraulic and gas.  The gas are
like twice as much as the hydraulic.  Is it worth it?  Is anything worth
it?

John


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kevins@eng.auburn.edu (Kevin Sullivan)
Subject: Re: anti-lock brakes/retrofit?
Organization: Auburn University Engineering
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 16:39:09 GMT

What's the deal on the "Anti-Lock Brake" thingy that J.C. Whitney sells for 
$350-$400?  It looks like a few valving things that attach to your master 
cylinder.  No electricals.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Oxygenated Gasoline and Low MPG (super unleaded?)
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 5 Jan 93 00:56:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


->    I'm just tuning in so spare me.  I've heard that this oxygenated
-> gasoline
-> is the same stuff you could buy at the cheaper gas stations
-> (Speedway, Gastown) before.  That is that all it is is regular
-> unleaded gas mixed with 10% ethanol.

 Oxygenated fuel is blended with a compound called MTBE, which is
somethingorother <mumble> ether.  It's also often blended with alcohol
as well, but the alcohol is not part of what makes it "oxygenated."
                                                                                                                      
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: RZAA80@email.sps.mot.com (Jim Chott)
Subject: Re: Tires: BFGoodrich vs. Goodyear
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Organization: Motorola SPS
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 20:17:13 GMT

In article <1993Jan04.204343.23137@eng.umd.edu>, josip@eng.umd.edu (Josip
Loncaric) wrote:
> 
> The tire dealer suggests BFBoodrich Comp T/A tire, same size, V rated.  
> He claims comparable performance or even slightly better traction.  
> I have no clue.  Does anyone have any ideas on this?  
> 
Something you might check is the tread width of the same size tires.
I bought P235/60R14 tires for my LeMans a while back.  The first set
was Goodyear Eagle GT's.  Then I tried to save some money and bought
two B.F.Goodrich Radial TA's.  The TA's were about 1" narrower in
tread width.  I realize now these are two different levels of performance
tires, especially in their lateral stability.

Jim Chott                            85 Toyota 4WD pickup
rzaa80@email.sps.mot.com             72 LeMans Sport Convertible
Tempe, Arizona
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: josip@eng.umd.edu (Josip Loncaric)
Subject: Tires: BFGoodrich vs. Goodyear
Date: Mon, 04 Jan 93 20:43:43 GMT
Organization: University of Maryland
Distribution: usa

My 1991 Ford Taurus SHO needs new tires.  The original equipment tires
are Goodyear Eagle GT+4 P215/60R16 rated 94V, treadwear 200, temperature A
and traction A.  These tires are directional (give best performance when
rolling forward).

The tire dealer suggests BFBoodrich Comp T/A tire, same size, V rated.  
He claims comparable performance or even slightly better traction.  
I have no clue.  Does anyone have any ideas on this?  

Thanks.

Josip Loncaric
From: sheriffp@Software.Mitel.COM (Peter Sheriff)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Oxygenated Gasoline and Low MPG (super unleaded?)
Date: 6 Jan 93 16:33:12 GMT
Organization: Mitel. Kanata (Ontario). Canada.

In article <4278.88.uupcb@chaos.lrk.ar.us> dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) writes:
>
>->    I'm just tuning in so spare me.  I've heard that this oxygenated
>-> gasoline
>-> is the same stuff you could buy at the cheaper gas stations
>-> (Speedway, Gastown) before.  That is that all it is is regular
>-> unleaded gas mixed with 10% ethanol.
>
> Oxygenated fuel is blended with a compound called MTBE, which is
>somethingorother <mumble> ether.  It's also often blended with alcohol
>as well, but the alcohol is not part of what makes it "oxygenated."
>
From: scott@psy.uwa.oz.au (Scott Fisher)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Care and Feeding of Woodgrain Sides
Date: 11 Jan 1993 05:46:56 GMT
Organization: The University of Western Australia
NNTP-Posting-Host: wapsy.psy.uwa.oz.au

rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com (Bob Rusk) writes:

>I'm sorry, I thought that "woodgrain" would make it clear that I didn't
>mean real wood.  This stuff is like wood-grain contact paper only thinner.
>And yes, that is my question exactly.  Do you wax this stuff, is there
>some other kind of treatment you should put on it, etc.?

>I remember back in the late 70's that the older Fords were having a
>lot of problem with their woodgrain sides.  The finish was turning
>milky.  More recently, a lot of the Caravan/Voyagers from the late
>80's that have the woodgrain sides are having problems with the
>finish peeling on the trim strips that surround the "wood".

Here in Australia you can't get cars with this stuff on the side (unless
you import it from the US).  I have seen plenty of cars with it on in
TV/Movies from the US...so how popular was/is this finnish? In Europe
and Australia it causes severe nausia when we see cars like this ;-)

Me?  My wood's real and where it should be..on the dash facia.

Regards Scott.
_______________________________________________________________________________
Scott Fisher [scott@psy.uwa.oz.au]  PH: Aus [61] Perth (09) Local (380 3272).                
                                                             _--_|\       N
Department of Psychology                                    /      \    W + E
University of Western Australia.      Perth [32S, 116E]-->  *_.--._/      S
Nedlands, 6009.  PERTH, W.A.                                      v       

Joy is a Jaguar XJ6 with a flat battery, a blown oil seal and an unsympathetic 
wife, 9km outside of a small remote town, 3:15am on a cold wet winters morning.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz)
Subject: Re: 90/130W H4 QI headlight bulbs wanted
Organization: Naval Ocean Systems Center, San Diego
Distribution: world 
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 14:30:47 GMT

In article <bob1.726438359@cos> bob1@cos.com (Bob Blackshaw) writes:
>In <64350004@hpcss01.cup.hp.com> garyg@hpcss01.cup.hp.com (Gary Gitzen) writes:

>>Does anyone know of a mail_order source for 90/130W H4 headlight bulbs?
>>The brightest I can find locally or mail_order are 80/100W, and I'd really
>>like to have the extra wattage.

>For off-road use only I hope, think about the poor sucker coming the
>other way. Besides, I thought something in the order of 55W was the
>legal limit? No bloody wonder I get home near blind every night!

he should also realize that the 'poor sucker coming the other way' might 
lack a sense of humor and put on a 'light show' of his own.  I keep a pair of
100Watt spotlights for 'dealing with' twits that can't figure out that my truck
is already on lo-beam...

>>Thanks for any help.

I haven't given any help yet... but here's a piece of *very* helpful advice --
don't *EVER* enter into a 'high-beam-battle' with a truck...  further, I agree
with the sentiments expressed below...

>Don't thank me, I wouldn't help anyone find bulbs like that, now a
>source of 12 guage shotgun shells to blow them out I might conssider.

>>Gary <garyg@cup.hp.com> San Jose, CA

>Bob.


Walt K.
From: Michel_Denber.WBST147@xerox.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Chevy 2.8L V-6 Needs Exorcist
Date: 11 Jan 1993 08:50:01 -0600
Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu

Well, it looks like I may have spoken too soon when I said a new oxygen sensor
fixed my car (88 Chevy Celebrity, 2.8L V-6 engine code W, 52K miles).  Even
using Diacom, I have to admit I'm stumped.  It did run fine for a few days, but
now here are the symptoms:

1. Occasionally fails to start when cold (around 30 deg. F lately).

2. Occasionally starts OK but then stalls immediately when cold.

3. Usually starts cold OK and runs OK.

4. Occasional "chuggle" (very brief intermittent loss of power) after 12
minutes of operation, then return to normal.
5. Occasional chuggle followed by stall.  May or may not restart.

6. Occasional stall at idle when warm.  Acceleration and cruise are OK.

Here's what Diacom tells me:

1. When cold, on initial startup, the coolant temperature sensor sometimes is
wildly off - like it reports 0 deg. F, varying to numbers like 20, 7, 10, etc.
When this is the case, the ECM selects a *very* large injector pulse width -
like over 43 msec. (normal idle is at 2.1 msec.).  In these cases, the car
won't start.

2. After some instability, the temp. sensor settles down, then behaves
normally.  Now the car will start.

3. The EGR position sensor reports 0.0 volts at all times, and 0% duty cycle.
The minimum allowable value in the book is 0.5v., even at idle.

4. When the chuggle happens, the reported rpm suddenly jumps to 6375 rpm. and
stays there, although the actual engine speed is not changing.  Sometimes the
rpm display seems to hang, even though the actual engine speed *is* changing.
Then the engine runs rough.

5. The O2 sensor, TPS, and MAP sensors always report reasonable numbers.

6. I finally got some ECM codes.  Yesterday, it set a code 42 (EST module (i.e.
ignition module)).  However, this morning there were no codes set *even though
I had not cleared them*.  Codes are supposed to remain in memory until you
clear them.

7. Today when it stalled, it set codes 24 (vehicle speed sensor), 35 (idle
speed error), 41 (cylinder select error), 45 (O2 sensor rich), 54 (fuel pump
circuit low voltage), and 55 (not listed in shop manual, Diacom calls it "ECM
error").

Other facts: when the crank sensor died last summer, the Chevy dealer performed
the MAF to speed-density upgrade, which involves replacing the PROM in the ECM.
If I can get it started cold, it always runs fine in the morning (no problems
in 15 miles in to work).  All the other problems happen later in the day after
it's been driven.  WIthout Diacom, I'd be completely in the dark.  Right now
though, I'm suffering from information overload - can anyone make anything out
of this multitude of symptoms and data?  Could the O2 sensor, temp. sensor, and
EGR all really go bad at once?  Is the ECM screwed?  A bad connector?  Anyone
ever see anything similar?  At least now I know why they call it the V-6 from
Hell.  Help!

			- Michel

denber.wbst147@xerox.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: wesf@boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii)
Subject: Re: Homebuilt Gas Analyzer Wanted
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 17:18:05 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

Wes Fujii (wesf@boi.hp.com) wrote:
: 
: Sometime ago, someone gave instructions on how to build an
: exhaust gas analyzer using a 3-wire oxygen sensor, some 
: pipe fittings, spark plug extender (?), etc.  
: 
: I seem to have lost my copy and would like to build a setup
: for myself.  I was wondering (again) what parts I need and 
: how do I hook it up and read it?  Has anyone correlated 
: this system to actual mixture percentages or if the "ideal"
: voltage that is achieved is at the exact ratio desired?  
: How much are you off on the mixture for every =/- .XX volts
                                                ^^^
                                   oops typo, should be +/-
: on the DVM?
: 
: Wes Fujii
: ________________________________________________________________
:       ___   ___ ___ 
:      /  /  /  //  /
:     /  /__/  //  /    A real motor is an Oldsmobile Rocket 455
:    /  HURST //  /     "This is NOT the new generation of Olds"
:   /  /  /  //  /_______ 
:  /__/  /__//  //  ___  \
:           /  //  /   \  \       Wes "BANZAI" Fujii
:          /  //  /OLDS/  /          Boise, Idaho
:         /  / \  \___/  /      wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com
:        /__/   \_______/ 
:
From: pburke@vms.macc.wisc.edu (Peter Burke, MIC, 608-263-7744)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Looking for a 5-speed Toyota 4-Runner transmission
Date: 5 Jan 93 22:52:44 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Wisconsin Academic Computing Center

I either need to have my current transmission rebuilt (250k miles - 
slowly getting noisy), or buy one that is still in nice condition. Price 
quotes for rebuilding range from $300 to $800, which means you don't 
know what you are getting yourself into until the damage is done.  I can 
maybe find a used tranny at a junk yard for $ 700 with no warranty.  
Does anyone have a lead to one of these, or does anyone happen to have a 
Toyota wreck with such a tranny (1986-1988 5-speed 4x4s should be all 
the same, except for Turbo trannys, which would work for me, too, since 
I have a Turbo swapped into a former non-turbo drivetrain)


Peter Burke                           | PBURKE@MACC.WISC.EDU 
Microcomputer Information Center      | PBURKE@Wiscmacc.BitNet
Madison Academic Computing Center     | 608-263-7744
1210 W. Dayton St., Madison, WI 53706 |
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: cleaning solvents
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 8 Jan 93 18:13:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> Hmm, the mental picture of someone with their head low enough in a
-> tank to get hit by the closing lid seems to suggest solvent abuse. If
-> you've been in that position for a while, I'm not sure you would even
-> feel the bump!
->                                    \
->                      ----,          \
->                     |---------       \
->                      |     )          \
->                      ,    -o           \
->                    /        ,-.         \
->                   /      +-. _- ---------+
->                  |  |  | |/ ',           |
->                 |   |  | /  /            |
->                |    |  |/  /  \  /       |
->                |     \    /    \/        |
->                       `--'     /\        |
->                          |    /  \       |
->                          |               |
->                          =================

 Ah, but it's a BIG solvent tank, Iain!   <grin>  Besides, I always seem
to wind up fishing around the bottom for parts that fall out of the
basket.
                                                                   
From: seghers@hpkslx.mayfield.HP.COM (David Seghers)
Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1993 00:45:17 GMT
Subject: Re: Tires: BFGoodrich vs. Goodyear
Organization: HP Response Center Lab
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

Either one is a good bet.  (Note:  the BFG with treadwear of 340 is
the all season radial, not the reagular T/A!)  I have driven two
essentially identical cars, one with each in the dry, and I feel 
the BFG gets the nod for dry handling.  I haven't driven them back
to back in the wet, but I have driven two different cars with the
different tires, and I think the GT+4 has better wet traction.

Your mileage WILL vary, (Please post your experiences when you do
decide!)


David Seghers (seghers@hpcc01.HP.COM) 415-691-3730

************************************************************************
Solipsist Society, Founding Member  (I think, therefore you are.)

Charter member of the "I HATE vi!" Club.
************************************************************************
The statements and opinions above are my own, entirely my own, and no one
else's.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sykes@donner.cc.bellcore.com (sykes,michael)
Subject: Re: Oxygenated Gasoline and Low MPG
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 93 13:41:19 GMT


I too have sufferd from lower gas mileage due to this nonsense. 
I filled my tank in N.J. for a trip down South to V.A. for Xmas.
Before I was out of Maryland on Rt 13 I had to fill up again so
I would not be stranded on Rt 13 on Xmas eve. (If you have ever
traveled on Rt13 you know what I am talking about :) ) Anyway
the trip is about 350 miles. When I filled up in Hampton V.A.
for the trip back I made it all the way to Easton, P.A. and my
wife had gas to go to work the next morning whis is 50 miles one way.
She had to fill on the way home but she got there none the less.
That's about 400 miles on one tank ON THE WAY BACK with NON-OXENGENATED
fuel. I don't think the fuel in P.A. is oxygenated but it sure is in N.J.!!

Mike
 
-- 
Michael H. Sykes
Standard disclaimers apply
sykes@donner.cc.bellcore.com
"It was like that when I got here" - Homer J. Simpson
From: mjwagner@bsu-cs.bsu.edu (Mike Wagner)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: My Brakes Squeeeeek!
Date: 11 Jan 93 13:58:47 GMT
Organization: CS Dept, Ball St U, Muncie, Indiana
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4

: Did you use factory pads, or an aftermarket pad? My experience has been
: that some pads squeak more than others.

I used aftermarket this time...I believe they are semi-mettalic.  I don't
recall the name though.  I guess if I want to get away from the squeak
I should loose the semi-met and pick up some non-metallic pads.  Easier
said than done on my budget. :)

Mike
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: lungtt@gus.ecn.purdue.edu (Terence T. Lung)
Subject: Re: Bad oxy sensor ? Oxygenated fuel ?
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 04:45:29 GMT

In article <C0I75z.D74@news.cso.uiuc.edu> bsmg9810@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Bhaskar S.Manda) writes:
>I'm getting around 20 mpg with a 2.0L 4 cyl (97 bhp)
>engine, which I think is on the lower side. The fuel
>is 10% ethanol blend 87 octane.
>i.  Is the fuel responsible for the low mpg ?
>ii. From reading r.a.c, I gather the electric thing
>on the exhaust manifold is the oxygen sensor. Can a
>bad oxy sensor or a bad connection to it cause bad mpg
>(by making the mixture richer than required, perhaps?)?

A bad oxygen sensor might give you a funny idle on top of 
other things.  It's departure should be gradual.  What will
a dead one do?  I don't know...nothing for your EFI efficiency.

Don't forget that cold weather will take a real toll on mpg.
Oxygenated gas just makes that toll a little more ridiculous.
Why this stuff is introduced during the winter time without
warning  makes me suspect that someone is trying to hide something.
You won't hide it well in California.  But you'd still make a 
big profit $$$.  Now, why didn't I think of this...

Assume that everything is well-tuned and well-maintained,
you can isolate these flying dutchmen by knowing how well
your car usually runs in given conditions.

Terence
From: andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang)
Subject: Re: Asbestos from brake pads - How to clean it up safely
Organization: Brandeis University
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 19:42:55 GMT

In article <1993Jan11.150939.29722@mic.ucla.edu> brims@bnkl01.astro.ucla.edu (George Brims) writes:
>In article <1993Jan4.010704.27848@csc.canberra.edu.au> mmr@asgserver.canberra.edu.au (Micheal Rainford-Watson) writes:
>>Recently I was changing the brake shoes on my car and noticed all the
>>warnings about asbestos dust. What wasn't suggested was a way to get
>>rid of it without breathing it in. Does anyone know how to do this
>>safely and without any fancy tools?
>And what about clutch linings? My '86 Chevy/Geo  Spectrum 
>awaits new clutch parts with the transmission sitting on the floor. Inside
>the bell housing is a lot of reddish dust which must be the remains of
>the former clutch lining. The new parts (I have all but one) are marked
>"asbestos free" but what about the old ones?
>
>George Brims

Yes, they most likely are asbestos.  The rule for mechanics seems only
to be not to use compressed air to clean the parts.  However, that
seems a bit liberal.  In places that can take it, spraying a light
mist of water, maybe mixed with a detergent as a wetting agent over
the dust to prevent its getting airborn.  Spraying over the dust and
letting it settle is probably the best approach.  I believe that this
is roughly the method used by hazardous waste cleaners.

Note that the dust masks in hardware stores are generally nuisance
masks and are not sufficient to deal with asbestos.

-andy
From: anandjr@hubcap.clemson.edu (Rajesh Anandjiwala)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: HELP: Shock Problem in 1985 OLDS '98.
Date: 4 Jan 93 13:55:27 GMT
Organization: Clemson University


In 1985 OLDS '98 I experience a shock while touching
exterior body parts such as door handle, boot lock, 
metallic rim of the dooe etc.

Will some knowledgeable please point to rectify and
solve the problem

Many thanks.

Rajesh
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Steven J Orlin)
Subject: Re: sugar in gas?
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 22:23:01 GMT

>Indeed, if granulated (table) sugar is used, it will simply clog the
>line and filter.  Sugar does not dissolve in gas very well.  Powdered
>sugar might be capable of damaging an auto engine if someone was evil
>enough to try it.  Things that make the fuel burn much too hot such as
>napthalene moth balls dissolve readily...


Napthalene moth balls , huh?  HAHAHAHAHAHA
-- 
"Nobody tells a Navy man when he's had enough to drink, cause only a Navy man
 knows when he's had enough to drink!"
-Steven J Orlin   sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu  /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech