HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: baud@eedsp.gatech.edu (Kurt Baudendistel)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bookcases
Date: 14 Apr 92 13:29:50 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology
Originator: baud@kepler.eedsp.gatech.edu

Lessons from completed bookshelf projects:

1. Particle board is much to heavy. Eventually, this bookshelf got left
   behind.

2. I used 1x2's for the shelf supports on this one, oriented vertically, 
   with the screw heads on the supports, not the vertical panel.

   The 1x2's were overkill. I would recommend 1x1's as the max required.
   Nick's suggestion of using moulding sounds good.

3. If you really like to use your drill, and you're pretty good with it,
   think about adjustable shelves using metal inserts as the shelf
   supports:


   |       |
   |       |
   |   +---+
   |   |+----++-----------
   |   ||    ||     plywood 
   |   |+---+||     shelf
   |   +---+||+-----------
   |       ||+---+
   |       |+----+ <- Little metal bracket with round post to fit in 
   |       |          hole and flat for shelf to fit on. Four per shelf.
   vertical
    wood
    panel

   In this case, the carcass gets support from the shelves only when 
   they fit relatively tightly and are loaded, but often that's okay
   with a plywood back. Note that the top and bottom are fixed.

   You can add some support to this type of shelf at the bottom (and top)
   with 2x2's and face plates (1x4 bottom, 1x2 top):


   |    |+------------------
   |    ||        fixed bottom shelf
   |    ||
   |    |+------------------
   |    |+----+-------------
   |    ||2x2 |
   |    ||in back
   |    |+----+
   |    ||        face plate on front
   |    ||
   |    |+-----------------
   +----+

   My shelf like this is pretty sturdy and easy to move when unloaded.
   I like the movable shelves, and I just drill holes whenever I need to
   move them.

4. My roommate's method was to make a bunch of cubes.  These are really easy 
   to move, since they just stay loaded! And, they fit anywhere he moves,
   since they can be arranged in any configuration, including cross shelves
   sometimes.
   
   This sounds pretty tedious to me though---you could just use milk crates 
   and planks instead. 

Have fun!
-- 
Kurt Baudendistel ---                                           --- GRA
Georgia Tech, School of Electrical Engineering, Atlanta, GA  30332-0250
internet: baud@eedsp.gatech.edu              uucp: gatech!gt-eedsp!baud
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: krumm+@CS.CMU.EDU (John Krumm)
Subject: Re: Want to get started in woodworking...
Date: Tue, 07 Apr 92 19:56:24 GMT
Organization: Carnegie Mellon University

In article <ku3p6kINN59i@saltillo.cs.utexas.edu>, colaluca@cs.utexas.edu (Mark Colaluca) writes:
|> I checked the FAQ, and this doesn't seem to be one, so I'll ask anyways.
|> If someone like myself wants to get started in woodworking, what would
|> be the best route to go?  I would imagine it would be very nice to have
|> an experienced woodworker on hand to "show you the ropes", however, I
|> do not have this luxury.


I've been meaning to say this for a long time, and your question
is a great reason to do it now.

I sometimes fantasize about wearing women's underwear while using
the radial arm saw.

No, just kidding.

I highly recommend taking a community college class on woodworking.
I'm on my third one now.  We meet once per week at 6:30 p.m. for
three hours in a high school woodworking shop.  The teacher is a
high school woodworking teacher (from another school).  He helps when
you need help, and he leaves you alone when you don't.  Using the
public school shop means there are plenty of tools (ableit a little
banged up), including a monster-size Delta table saw, power planer,
jointer, lathe, radial arm saw, mortising machine, drill press, band
saw and on and on and on.  Some more experienced people sign up for
the class just so they can use the tools.  They are a good source
of advice.  Also, it's nice to try out the tools before you go buy
copies for yourself.  It makes clear what the important features are.

For 12 three-hour classes, I paid $44 total -- a bargain at twice
the price.

|> |        "A Pittsburgh native, and proud of it. "

I'm still here, and I can see why you like it.

						John
From: rwu@ismdqa.intel.com (Ronnie Wu )
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Southern Lumber
Date: 17 Apr 92 20:57:51 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Intel Corp.


>I think Southern Lumber is the place that did our back fence a few years  
>ago and is no longer in business.  Maybe somebody else can confirm.

	I don't know if there are more then one Southern Lumber, but the
one on Monterery Highway is still in business. Actually they are doing
great business. Its always crowded on Saturday (close Sunday, close at
6:00 PM on weekdays). The hand tool museum is still there, next to the
very nice hardwood floors display area.

	Price of wood is on the expensive side.

Ron
From: flato@icefloe.dartmouth.edu (Gregory M Flato)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: info wanted on power drivers
Date: 7 Apr 92 20:43:17 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH

rls@sequent.com (Robert Sleator) writes:


>I am looking for a screw driver of the deck/drywall type (not cordless),
>and am somewhat confused by the options.  I want it mostly for things like
>deck building, but might also do some drywall with it.  As I see it, the
>parameters are amperage (3.5 to 5.4 or so), speed (0-2500 and 0-4000 rpm
>seem to be typical) and type of chuck or driver mechanism (whatever the
>proper term is). 

>I am inclined towards 5.4 amp, 0-2500 rpm, which I think would be best for
>deck building, but am not sure how well this would work for drywall. 

For decking, you will be driving much longer screws than are used in drywall
and so I think you are wise in going for 'more power' (in the words of Tim
Allen). This will obviously give you more than enough power for drywall 
work. The issue for drywall is not so much power as having a proper
clutch - the device which disengages the driver when the screw head is a
prescribed distance below the surface. This normally takes the form of
a 'tube' extending aroung the driver bit and a collar above it which can
be turned to adjust the clutch. What you want is for the screw to just
dimple the paper on the drywall so that it is far enough below the surface
to allow it to be filled level with taping mud, but not so far as to break
the paper (which severely decreases the holding power of the screw). Drivers
described as 'Drywall Drivers' or 'Screw Guns' normally have this feature
whereas those described as 'Drill/Drivers' or 'Driver Drills' generally do
not. These latter are IMHO virtually useless for drywall work because you
cannot control the screw penetration. Sorry I can't give specific recom-
mendations since the one I have is about a 30 year old Black and Decker
which is no longer made but is an excellent quality tool. Milwauke is
generally a good bet, along with Makita.
	Cheers,
		Greg
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: townsend@ (Paul Townsend)
Subject: Re: Want to get started in woodworking...
Organization: MPR Teltech Ltd.
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 92 15:12:00 GMT

In article <1992Apr9.170324.5666@beaver.cs.washington.edu>, pauld@cs.washington.edu (Paul Barton-Davis) writes:

|> A few years ago, I moved out to Seattle, where the art of fine
|> woodworking is considerably more in evidence than in London. Visits
|> down to NW Gallery of Woodworking on 1st Ave continue to leave me
|> awestruck. 
I agree, the stuff in this place is unbelievable. We make a yearly journey
to Seattle (from Vancouver BC) to, amoung other things, visit this gallery
and be humbled ...

Paul


===
"Who is this Art Deco guy anyway?"
Paul Townsend -- MPR Teltech                  <<Part of the BC Tel Group>>
+--------------------------------------------+----------------------------+
| NET  : ...!ubc-cs!mprgate!handel!townsend  | MPR Teltech Ltd            |
|        townsend@mprgate.mpr.ca             | 8999 Nelson Way            |
| FONE : 604-293-5346   FAX: 604-293-5787    | Burnaby BC Canada  V5A 4B5 |
+--------------------------------------------+----------------------------+
From: erickson@atlas.cs.nps.navy.mil (David Erickson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Sharpening Plane Irons
Keywords: plane iron, sharpening
Date: 8 Apr 92 19:31:02 GMT
Reply-To: erickson@taurus.cs.nps.navy.mil (David Erickson)
Organization: Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey CA

In article <1992Apr8.002902.2598@spool.cs.wisc.edu> stuart@rennet.cs.wisc.edu (Stuart Friedberg) writes:

>With the exception of the very corners (the initial topic of this
>discussion), jointer plane blades should be *flat* across, especially
>when they are used to prepare joinery (glue joints).  The rougher the
>work, the more convexity is useful and acceptable.  


>Stu Friedberg (stuart@cs.wisc.edu)

O.K. - we're both right.  You can't assume that a jointer is used only for 
edge-jointing, since it is equally good at surfacing and squaring lumber.
For surfacing, a curved blade has an advantage - there is less friction
between the sole of the plane and the wood being planed, and you can
avoid problems with the edge of the blade digging in.

I have an old 30" wood jointer with about 1/16" blade curvature.  I've
used it to make a fireplace mantle, to correct alignment between warped
railings on my redwood deck, and similar applications.  I don't use it
for cabinetmaking :^).

-Dave Erickson
From: myjak@titan.ksc.nasa.gov (Michael D. Myjak)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Wasting Bandwidth; new newsgroup names
Date: 7 Apr 92 16:11:36 GMT
Article-I.D.: titan.1992Apr7.111136.2485

games@max.u.washington.edu writes:

> But (with a superior tone of voice)  THIS >>IS<< REC.WOODWORKING.AND.EVERY.
> OTHER.CONSTRUCTION.POWER.METALWORKING.ETC.QUESTION.IN.EXISTANCE .
> 
> (Tone off)  But really, that is one of the strengths of this group.
> I think that maybe the name ought to be changed to accurately
> reflect the wider nature of the posts here, but nothing really good
> has come up yet in these discussions. 

I'm rather fond of Rec.HandyPeople for a base group name. for example,
Rec.HandyPeople.WoodWorking, Rec.HandyPeople.MetalWorking, 
Rec.HandyPeople.FirePlace.Electrical, etc.

- Michael D. Myjak			
  Senior Technical Specialist, Systems Analyst
  McDonnell Douglas Space Systems Company - KSC
  MYJAK@TITAN.KSC.NASA.GOV

Fea'ture N.  Distinction; Characteristic; Perculiarity (!)
             A bug with documentation.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: chaney@leland.Stanford.EDU (ken chaney)
Subject: Re: Jet tools (cheap mail-order?)
Keywords: jet
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 92 07:41:25 GMT

In article <1992Apr07.150304.6741@microsoft.com> stevenj@microsoft.com (Steven JOHNSON) writes:
>By the way, TOS's service seems to be slipping somewhat recently.  Their
>phone order-takers don't seem as knowledgable/motivated any more.  Pity.

Agreed.  I ordered a router from them.  Great price.  They told me it did not
come with a 1/4" collet, so I ordered one.  Turns out it does come with one,
and the one they sent would not fit anyway.  When I called about a return, the
Customer Service guy CHALLENGED my claim.  When I assured him they had sent me
a useless, unnecessary part, he said, "I guess I'll have to tell the operators,
you are the third person to call about this."
            ^^^^^
They do have low prices, and I have some idea why.
Ken
From: ag900@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (David Burris)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Want to get started in woodworking...
Date: 11 Apr 92 22:34:41 GMT
Article-I.D.: usenet.1992Apr11.223441.20337
Reply-To: ag900@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (David Burris)
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)


In a previous article, ronnie@cisco.com (Ronnie B. Kon) says:
>
>You will need reading material:
>
>1)  A subscription to Woodsmith magazine
>	Lots of good advice on techniques, many projects in the beginner to
>	intermediate range.  Some advanced.
>
>2)  A subscription to Fine Woodworking magazine
>	Glossy and slick.  Good articles on tools and techniques.  Advanced
>	to very advanced projects (by and large).  Get the Woodsmith 
>	subscription if you are only going to get one.
>
>3)  Tage Frid's woodworking books, volumes 1 and 2.  Don't get volume 
>	3 (Furnituremaking).  It discusses how to go about designing 
>	furniture.
>
>4)  Sunset Books Introduction to Woodworking is a good overview.  The 
>	projects they give you are all pretty dorky though.
>
>
>You will need tools:
>
>1)  A used table saw.
>	I got a 8" Black and Decker 1.5hp table saw used for $60.
>
>2)  A power drill
>	Get a good assortment of bits, and some screwdriver attachments.
>
>3)  A try-square
>	This is a right angle thing.  Get the cheapest one you can find which
>	is really square (remember that you are going to be being accurate to
>	1/16 of an inch, maybe to 1/32.  An out-of-square square will drive
>	you mad.
>
This right angle thing is probably one of the most important tools you
will ever purchase.Without a highly accurate square you will be more
than just mad.Save yourself a lot of headaches down the road.
Get yourself a good machinist square for setups and a good combo square
for marking the wood.
>
>
>You also need an understanding wife, because there is no way in Hell you are
>really only going to buy two or three cheap tools.

Get yourself a good one of these as well.Saves a lot of headaches.:-)

Dave

-- 
ag900@cleveland.freenet.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: tim@intrepid.gsfc.nasa.gov (Tim Seiss)
Subject: My new Ryobi BT-3000
Organization: Goddard Space Flight Center
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 14:10:09 GMT


I've been collecting everyone's comments about the Ryobi BT-3000 table saw
for the last 2 months.  I printed out the listing last Friday, read it over
carefully, and went shopping.

I was interested in the Ryobi and Makita 2711 10" saw for carpentry, home-
improvement, DIY projects, etc., not fine furniture or cabinet making.  I'd
never had a hands-on look at the Makita; I only knew what I read in the
recent issue of FWW and what my uncle thought of it after using one on a
union jobsite.  Anyway, I bought the BT-3000  after spending about 1-1/2
hours with it twisting, adjusting, and sliding anything on it that moved, then
I read through the copy of the owner's manual sitting next to it.  I paid
$564 for the saw and metal stand at Home Depot in Baltimore, maybe not the best
price available, but I needed the saw to do some of the finish trim work on a
kitchen addition I've been working on...

The saw went together easily and everything was tight and properly adjusted
right out of the box.  However, I am a little disappointed in the use of plastic
parts in some areas important to the saws' adjustment, such as in the rip fence
locking mechanism, the miter gauge locating pin, and the accessory table locking
clamp.

The saw is really versatile and generally makes good cuts. The sliding miter
table got a little sloppy on its' tracks after a few hours work, but that
should be easy to fix with all the cam adjusting screws.  Though the specs
claim a 3-9/16" cutting capacity at 90 deg., I'm not really confident that
the motor has the grunt to make a living doing those kinds of cuts.

The comments above are my initial impressions of the BT-3000 for the benefit
of any readers of this group who are considering the purchase of one of these
units...

QUESTION FOR OTHER BT-3000 OWNERS:  Has anyone used any other types of blades
with this saw?  Is there a limited selection of blades suitable for the saw, or
can any 10" blade be safely used?  Thanks for any info or opinions.

Tim Seiss
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: djenkins@wang.com (Dave Jenkins)
Subject: Re: Sears router problem--Am I alone?
Organization: Wang Labs, Lowell MA, USA
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 09 Apr 92 13:36:21 GMT

anderson@scivax.stsci.edu writes:

>I have a Craftsman 1.5 hp router, 1 year old, whose (#$%@! plastic) fan self-
>destructed this weekend.  This is only the fourth time I have even used the
>thing.
>Anyone else have this problem?...

I have the rame router, same age.  I have only used mine a couple dozen times
but I have had *NO* problems (other than the obvious ones related to latent
inability and feeble-mindedness).
From: ron@etch-eshop.Berkeley.EDU (Ronald Viegelahn)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Lathe/mill forsale
Date: 8 Apr 92 16:17:37 GMT
Article-I.D.: pasteur.1992Apr8.161737.3512
Reply-To: ron@etch-eshop.Berkeley.EDU (Ronald Viegelahn)
Distribution: ca
Organization: University of California, Berkeley




 I have a combination lathe/mill-drill press that I'd like to part with.
I bought it several years ago and have never used it. 

 This machine has ~ 8 inch swing and is about 2 ft between centers.
The head also is a drill press/mill that has a power feed, you change
from lathe to mill by moving the drive clutch selector. It was made in
china so all the dials are calibrated metric ( mm ),does not have a
power feed on the carrage so you can't cut threads.

 The only tooling that I have for it is what came with the machine.
A 3-jaw chuck, 1 dead center, and a jacobs chuck on the drill/mill
head. 

 Speeds are changed by moving the belt on the drive pully's, I think
the motor is .5 HP runs on 110 or 220 vac.

I'm asking $800.00 for it, I have seen the same machine marketed by
I think shop-task for about $1200.00. Any questions feel free to ask.



                                     Ron Viegelahn

                                     ron@etcheshop.Berkeley.EDU

                                     (707)557-5671 H
                                     (510)642-4971 W
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: afmartp@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov (PETE MARTIN)
Subject: Carrot sandpaper??
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: ORGANIZATION??...Who has time to be organized?
Date: 13 Apr 1992 14:11 EST  

My office-mate ordered some sand paper from Quaker State Supply.  He was 
told when he placed the order that the paper was 3M.  When he received it 
it was manufactored by Carrot (sp?) and made in Finland.  Has anyone heard
of this brand name?  He doesn't know if he should send it back.  If anyone
has heard of it can they comment on how "good" it is compared to 3M??

Thanks 
***************************************************************************
* Pete Martin                                                             *
* NASA Lewis Research Center                                              *
* Cleveland, OH                                                           *
* (216)433-8731         afmartp@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov                      *
***************************************************************************

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: hrt@utne.aosg.gsf.dec.com (Henry R. Tumblin AOSG)
Subject: Re: Drill Press Recommendations and experience
Reply-To: hrt@aosg.gsf.dec.com
Organization: AOSG
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1992 16:32:16 GMT

Well,
	I bought a rosette cutter and found that you need a drill press with
minimal runout in order to produce good rosettes. I'm negotiating with
my local trend-lines dealer to try the cutter on what he has for drill 
presses so I can figure which one I should buy. I'll post my results here
in about a week.

/Henry
--
Henry R. Tumblin                        OSF/1-Alpha
Mailstop: GSF/K13	                (dtn) 264-5861
Digital Equipment Corp.                 (external) 603/884-5861
5 Wentworth Drive                       enet: hrt@aosg.gsf.dec.com
Hudson, NH 03051                        decnet: alpha::hrt
From: anderson@scivax.stsci.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Sears router problem--Am I alone?
Date: 7 Apr 92 14:13:43 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Space Telescope Science Institute

I have a Craftsman 1.5 hp router, 1 year old, whose (#$%@! plastic) fan self-
destructed this weekend.  This is only the fourth time I have even used the
thing.

Anyone else have this problem?  Is it a chronic, well-documented flaw in these
tools, or am I just an unlucky person?  I am asking because it looks like it
will not be trivial for me to repair myself, and I am hoping that Sears will 
cut me a break on the repairs if this is a common failure mode.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: afmartp@lims02.lerc.nasa.gov (PETE MARTIN)
Subject: Re: Sears router problem--Am I alone?
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: ORGANIZATION??...Who has time to be organized?
Distribution: na
Date:  9 Apr 1992 15:42 EST  

In article <1992Apr7.101343.1@scivax.stsci.edu>, anderson@scivax.stsci.edu writes...
>I have a Craftsman 1.5 hp router, 1 year old, whose (#$%@! plastic) fan self-
>destructed this weekend.  This is only the fourth time I have even used the
>thing.
> 
>Anyone else have this problem?  Is it a chronic, well-documented flaw in these
>tools, or am I just an unlucky person?  I am asking because it looks like it
>will not be trivial for me to repair myself, and I am hoping that Sears will 
>cut me a break on the repairs if this is a common failure mode.
I got a Craftsman 1 hp router for Christmas 1990.  I also appropriated my 
dad's old craftsman router table a few months after that.  The first time I
tried to mount the router in the table, I noticed that the tapped holes in 
the router base did not match *exactly* the holes in the router table.  I 
could get two of the three screws to line up, but the third had to be 
persuaded into the hole.  I used the router in the table a few times, each 
time taking it's toll on the tapped holes in the router base.  Finally, I 
had enough of it by November 1991.  I took the router back to Sears, (no 
reciept !!) and was able to trade it in for a same model replacement after 
showing the sales girl that it wouldn't fit on the floor model router table 
as well.  Well I got the new one home, and *surprise* it didn't line up 
exactly either, it was better, but still not good enough to keep from 
marring the threads in the router base.  So after fighting with that one 
for two months, I took it back, armed with the reciept they gave me for the 
trade and got a full refund.  I then promptly ordered a Porter Cable 690 
and am building my own router table!  

I would try to take your Craftsman back for at the least an exchange. 
Sears seems to be so hard up for business these days, they will do anything 
keep a customer happy.  Good luck


***************************************************************************
* Pete Martin                                                             *
* NASA Lewis Research Center                                              *
* Cleveland, OH                                                           *
* (216)433-8731         afmartp@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov                      *
***************************************************************************