HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: rrw@sunset.cse.nau.edu (Bob Wier)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: boxing in a whole-house fan
Date: 4 Jan 93 06:48:12 GMT
Originator: rrw@sunset.cse.nau.edu

I'm not sure if it's the same.  When I was a kid in Texas - we
had what was then called an "attic fan" but would now be what
is called a "whole house fan".  It was mounted in the attic,
but with louvers which were mounted in the ceiling of the
2nd floor hallway.  Since this was a flat roof, there was a 
little "doghouse" on the roof to accomodate the depth of the
fan above the ceiling.

In the winter, my dad just screwed a piece of plywood into the 
frame of the louvers using sheet metal screws.  Seemed to work
ok since it covered the louvers and was painted the same color
as the ceiling...

- Bob Wier

  ---------- insert favorite standard disclaimers here ----------
                   College of Engineering
      Northern Arizona University, Flagstaff Arizona
  Internet: rrw@naucse.cse.nau.edu | WB5KXH | fax:602 523 2300
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (patterson,george r)
Subject: Re: size's, gallons, and Cubic Foot
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 93 01:28:06 GMT

In article <13128.2b1c78dc@cpva.saic.com> save@cpva.saic.com writes:

About Hot tub design and measurements:

>..............  Total weight of water would come to 17666 lbs, which is 30%
>less than your rough estimate.  However, it sounds like you could drop at least
>eight people into the tub comfortably, so you might add 1200 lbs to that number.

Eureka!
If you drop 1,200 pounds of people into that tub, you'll displace 1,200
pounds of water. 

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | "Zero Defects": The result of shutting down a
                    |    production line.
                    |         Kelvin Throop - The Management Dictionary
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,misc.legal
From: mr@ogre.cica.indiana.edu (Michael Regoli)
Subject: Zoning Question
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1993 04:11:22 GMT

][

I live in a subdivision that has about two dozen lots.  We're all
zoned 'agriculture' (the land used to be a vineyard).

I recieved a certified letter today from our realtor (who is the
seller's agent for the subdivision) letting us know that he is
requesting an amendment to the zoning maps to rezone from agriculture
to residential the entire subdivision (supposedly to allow less
stringent setback reqirements and to be consistent with the
subdivision's covenants).

Should we be concerned about this? He informed us of the hearing time,
place, etc.  What would this mean for us?  We've already built and met
every requirement of the covenants and restrictions...  I see this as
somehow benefiting the owner of the subdivision (who has about 12-18
more lots to sell) and certainly not us.

Can our taxes increase due to a reclassification in zoning?  

(I'm not too aware of the zoning regulations, so excuse the ignorance.
I do know that zoning is a key element in dictating what one can do
with their property, but still, this whole thing has me suspicious.)

Thanks!

--
michael regoli
mr@cica.indiana.edu
regoli@indiana.BITNET
..{att,rutgers}!moose!cica!mr
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis)
Subject: Re: When does it make sense to reduce the pricinple of your home loan?
Organization: OSF Research Institute
	<MACRAKIS.93Jan11121449@lakatos.osf.org>
	<11JAN199313340837@utkvx3.utk.edu>
Distribution: na
Date: 11 Jan 93 17:10:33

In article <11JAN199313340837@utkvx3.utk.edu> drevik@utkvx3.utk.edu (Drevik, Steve) writes:

     ...it not worthwhile to pay down your mortgage early IF you can
     get a rate of return on investment greater than your mortgage
     rate AFTER taxes.

Agreed, but I think your calculations are wrong.  You need to look at
the MARGINAL interest and rate of return.  On an 8.5% loan, your
marginal interest rate in a 28% bracket is 6.1% because of the
mortgage interest subsidy.  Your investment thus has to give you
greater than 6.1% after-tax return.  Assuming you are paying the full
28% rate on all investment gains (this is pessimistic since you won't
be realizing the full capital gains), that means that the investment
has to be making 8.5% pre-tax, i.e. 6.1% after tax.

This all assumes you itemize deductions.

	-s

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: dwb@cbnewsb.cb.att.com (david.boyle)
Subject: Plumbing - pipe sizes
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 16:11:58 GMT

Can someone please post or email some info regarding plumbing pipe
sizes?  Specifically, when should you measure inside versus outside
diameters?

I goofed recently on both a dishwasher install and a sink trap repair.  Each
involved a return trip to get the right fittings.
					Thanks, Dave
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: upp@ssd.comm.mot.com (Steve Upp)
Subject: Re: When does it make sense to reduce the
Organization: Motorola LMPS
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 18:13:39 GMT
Keywords: n

This doesn't take into account the taxes you pay on the 9% return from
the mutual fund.  If you're in the 28% tax bracket, you'd have to get
an average 12% annual return from a taxable mutual fund to actually
break even.  This is still possible, but certainly makes it more of an
uncertainty.

---
Steve Upp   	    	    	    	    email: upp@comm.mot.com
Motorola Land Mobile Products Sector  	    voice: (708) 576-4953
1301 E. Algonquin Road, IL02 Room 4413	    fax:   (708) 576-6150
Schaumburg, IL 60196
-- 

---
Steve Upp   	    	    	    	    email: upp@comm.mot.com
Motorola Land Mobile Products Sector  	    voice: (708) 576-4953
1301 E. Algonquin Road, IL02 Room 4413	    fax:   (708) 576-6150
Schaumburg, IL 60196
From: bwilliam@oyster.smcm.edu (Bill Williams)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: How to put a ladder on the roof?
Date: 12 Jan 93 18:04:24 GMT
Organization: St. Mary's College of Maryland
X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1.1d17
X-XXMessage-ID: <A77872EF4B0201D2@williams.smcm.edu>
X-XXDate: Tue, 12 Jan 93 18:06:55 GMT

I'm in the (lengthy) process of painting the trim on my two-storey
house, and I need to know how to reach high areas that are over
portions of the roof.  For example, there is a front porch with its own
roof:  what is the best way to set up a ladder on the sloping porch
roof so that I can reach the trim that's over the roof?  Should I just
nail a couple of 2x4's to the roof and put the base of the ladder
against them?

Another part of the trim is over a portion of the roof that slopes to
the side (i.e., not directly away from the part I want to paint).  How
can I possibly get to that area?

A friend has lent me some "pump jacks," but it appears that the effort
required to set up the framework for them would be comparable to the
effort I've already expended, painting 90% of the trim!  Surely there
must be an easier way...
___________________________________
William E. Williams, bwilliam@oyster.smcm.edu
Divison of Natural Sciences and Mathematics
St. Mary's College of Maryland
St. Mary's City, MD 20686
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: garyp@rmtc.paramax.com (Gary Palangian [RMTC/ISP])
Subject: Re: Cabinet hardware
Organization: Paramax Systems
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 21:44:47 GMT

In article <1ii2jvINN9ru@shelley.u.washington.edu>, shelley@vents.biostr.washington.edu (Shelley Vogel) writes:
|> 
|> I've just taken all the hardware off my kitchen cupboards to paint them
|> and want to replace the old, ugly chrome stuff with something nice.  I
|> went to Ernst with a sample in my pocket and found that *every* handle
|> was the wrong size!!  I couldn't find ONE - not even an ugly one - to
|> fit my sample.  Granted, these are probably the original chrome cabinet
|> handles from 1952, but still ....  I don't want to put them back on
|> and I don't want to putty up the second hole and go to knobs.  Does
|> anybody know where I can get odd sized handles?
|> 
|> Shelley


I would be very interested in sources for unusual and unique
drawer pulls.  I finished several unfinished alder case products
and I'd like some funky southwestern pulls (little horseshoes
or that flute-playing indian dude or something) to replace the 
boring stock pulls.    

Gary P.

garyp@rmtc.paramax.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: brett@sr.hp.com ()
Subject: Re: When does it make sense to reduce the
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 20:00:12 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: HP Sonoma County (SRSD/MWTD/MID)
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8.1]

Michael J. Edelman (mje@pookie.pass.wayne.edu) wrote:
> Rememeber that the one-time deduction lets you
> shelter 100% of the capital gains on a house from taxes. Assuming you 
> keep rolling over your house investment, you can get a very good return.

Warning, I think there's a limit on the size of that one time deduction
( < $100,000 ?? ).  Consult a tax advisor BEFORE you start counting on it.
This may differ from state to state also.

--

							Brett Carver
							(707) 577-4344
							brett@sr.hp.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Garage Door Openers
From: Robert Chambers <RMCCU@CUNYVM.BITNET>
Date: Tuesday, 5 Jan 1993 10:05:31 EST
Organization: CUNY/UCC VM Systems

I'll second the vote for sears 3-button jobs.

I have a sears opener that opens a single door for a two car garage
no problems.  I don't have kids so I'm not to worried about that right
now but the other buttons on the remote are very handy, as is the numeric
keypad that mounts outside.

I can turn my bugzapper off and on from the kitchen (with the other remote)
as well as open and close the door... (handy in torrential downpours)

My parents old house had two garage doors so we got two door openers at
different times.  Setting them both up to use the same remote was easy..
the big button opened one and the opposite end opened the other..

Robert
From: egreen@east.sun.com (Ed Green - Pixel Cruncher)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Mind in the gutter
Date: 11 Jan 1993 19:36:26 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, RTP, NC
Distribution: world
Reply-To: egreen@east.sun.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: laser.east.sun.com

In article PN16426@LL.MIT.EDU, khamsi@ll.mit.edu (Sarir Khamsi) writes:
>
>Just how bad are leaves in gutters and
>what are the potential dangers? Thanks in advance.

They will clog the downspouts and the gutter will fill up with water.
When that happens, all the rain from the roof will flow over the top
and down on your head, or in a line on your lawn.  After the rain, the
leaves and pine needles in the gutter will deteriorate in the water and
form an acid, which will eventually eat its way through the gutter, so
that it will no longer hold the water when it rains.

---
Ed Green, former Ninjaite |I was drinking last night with a biker,
  Ed.Green@East.Sun.COM   |and I showed him a picture of you.  I said,
DoD #0111  (919)460-8302  |"Go on, get to know her, you'll like her!"
 (The Grateful Dead) -->  |It seemed like the least I could do...
From: naiming@eng.umd.edu (Naiming Shen)
Subject: Questions about Genie garage door opener
Date: Fri, 08 Jan 93 18:36:56 GMT
Organization: Electrical Engineering, University of Maryland
Distribution: usa


My garage has two doors, which means I need to install two openers.
I went the Home Depot yesterday and saw a Genie opener GXL9500. That
one has two 3-function transmitters, sell for $169. Does anyone have
experience about this model? Can the 3-function transmitter be configured
to control both garage door openers (like the one in Sears)? Is the price
right for this kind of model made by Genie? I live in Washingtion-Baltimore
area. Thanks in advance for the help.

Naiming Shen

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: pngai@adobe.com (Phil Ngai)
Subject: Re: Plumbing Questions
Keywords: advice, toilet
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 20:28:58 GMT

In article <4111@ecicrl.ocunix.on.ca> clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis) writes:
>and know how much to reinforce the floor.  Soldering 3 or 4" copper pipe
>between joists ain't for amateurs either.  The plumber will also be able

Not everyone uses copper pipe for drains...
I really can't think of any good reasons for doing so.  I certainly
wouldn't want to solder a 4" copper pipe with a propane torch.
-- 
My opinions are my own.
From: whs70@dancer.cc.bellcore.com (sohl,william h)
Subject: Re: Zoning Question
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 93 15:30:57 GMT

In article <1993Jan11.220733.17134@informix.com> davek@informix.com (David Kosenko) writes:
>sohl,william h writes:
>>Michael Regoli writes:
>>>I live in a subdivision that has about two dozen lots.  We're all
>>>zoned 'agriculture' (the land used to be a vineyard).
>>>
>>>Can our taxes increase due to a reclassification in zoning?  
>>
>>That's not likely.
>>
>
>Hah!  Don't bet on it.  It is very common for residential zones to pay
>more taxes than agricultural.  In out own state of NJ, for example, there
>is something called Green Acres that gives farmers a tax break for keeping
>their property farmland.

I think you really mean to say: It is very common for residentially
developed property to pay more than a similar size property being used as
a farm.  As to reduced "farm assessments in NJ,
that's true, but that's not the thrust of the issue being asked about.
The question had to do with a private dwelling on a lot in an area
zoned agricultural.  Nothing in the original post suggested that the
owner was getting a "farm assessment" reduction simply because his
home/lot was in the agricultural zone.  Most agricultural zoning in
NJ simply contains requirements for larger lot sizes and setbacks if
a residential development is built without changing the zoning.

For example, in Mount Olive township, the minimum lot size to construct
a residential dwelling in an area zoned agricultural is 2 acres.  
The mere fact that a subdivision is built in an agricultural zone
does not provide the owners with any special reduced assessment
if there isn't any actual farming going on.  In fact, an argument can
be made that homes in the agricultural zone are worth more money
because it is much more desirable to live in a large lot
neighborhood than a more compacted area.  As I recall also, to
gain farm assessment reductions requires a minimum farm size that
is significantly larger than any individual residential property.

Standard Disclaimer- Any opinions, etc. are mine and NOT my employer's.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Bill Sohl (K2UNK) BELLCORE (Bell Communications Research, Inc.)
Morristown, NJ             email via UUCP      bcr!cc!whs70
201-829-2879 Weekdays      email via Internet  whs70@cc.bellcore.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas S. Rand)
Subject: Re: Tying 2 Switches to Common Load?
Organization: Open Software Foundation
	<1993Jan8.154116.1@skyler.mavd.honeywell.com>
Distribution: na
Date: 8 Jan 93 17:27:33

In article <1993Jan8.154116.1@skyler.mavd.honeywell.com> kaliher@skyler.mavd.honeywell.com writes:

   > There's another solution- use a low-voltage DC switch in each of 
   > the two locations	to control an AC relay at the fan. Simple. 
   > Low voltage DC wiring can be happily 	run with abandon.           --mike
   > 
   Similarly, 115VAC relays could be used, one for each bathroom.  They're 
   available at RS for under $10.  Mount them both on a single panel that is 
   clearly labeled to indicate that if one relay is picked, the other will 
   have line voltage present on the output pin.  Extra relay contacts could 
   be used for indicator lights if desired. 

Pardon.  Are the relays available for < $10 at RS rated for the
wattage?  The fan is a motor load and is not kind to relays.  The
relay should be rated for the full wattage of the fan unit.  Accept
no substitutes,  and make sure it has a U.L. label.



--
Douglas S. Rand <drand@osf.org>		OSF/Motif Dev.
Snail:         11 Cambridge Center,  Cambridge,  MA  02142
Disclaimer:    I don't know if OSF agrees with me... let's vote on it.
Amateur Radio: KC1KJ
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: prange@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Henry Prange)
Subject: Re: When does it make sense to reduce the pricinple of your home loan?
Organization: Indiana University
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 19:00:23 GMT

I have been advised on more than one occasion to stay mortgaged to the limit
I can afford. The agrument being: pay off the principle in "cheap" dollars
i.e., deflated value per dollar due to inflation, later rather than to use
your expensive dollars now. The principle will only become relatively cheaper
with time and the deduction for the interest is a bigger benefit. 

I have never bothered to work through the numbers on this strategy but, being
a "grasshopper" rather than an "ant", I would rather spend the money now than
have it devalue with inflation, so it is sufficient for me. Of course, I also
consider balancing my checking account a waste of time (they will let me 
know when I am out of money) so I haven't done it for years, but that is 
another story!

Good luck with creative economics!
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: jefftb@sr.hp.com (Jeff Brown)
Subject: Re: BTU content of various fuels?
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 16:13:49 GMT
Distribution: misc
Organization: HP Sonoma County (SRSD/MWTD/MID)
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.9 PL6]



  I saw a price comparison at a wood stove place. For 1,000,000 btu of
  nat gas was 6 and 8 dollars depending on PG&e base line prices. And 
  LPG was about 14.00 @ 1.20 a gal. These numbers are as I rember them
  so they could be off. 
  They gave the comparison to wood heat and @ $200/ cord natural gas was 
  cheaper. I think an 80% efficent stove was a little cheaper than LP 
  but as stove efficency decreased LP became cheaper.  
  They sold both wood stoves and gas stoves that were 80% efficent.
  I'll see if I can find the sheet they gave me to check my numbers.

  Jeff Brown

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: kenk@sdc.com (Ken Konecki)
Subject: Re: Gray flexible water supply pipe OK?
Organization: Systems Development Corporation
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 18:48:01 GMT

In article <C0K598.9nK@srgenprp.sr.hp.com> brett@sr.hp.com () writes:
>Rand Briggs (rand@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM) wrote:
>> Poly-Butyl Water Supply Pipe
>We've got the stuff in our current house (didn't realize it when we bought it).
>There's nothing wrong with the pipe itself, but all connections are made with
>a crimped fitting.  If they don't put it on JUST RIGHT, it can crack the pipe
>or just pull apart in a few years.

Improper installation is no excuse to avoid the material.  Improperly
sweated pipes will leak just too, but that's no reason to avoid copper
piping.  As long the plumber installing the supply lines knows his stuff,
there's no reason not to use plastic piping.

Cheers,
    -Ken K
-- 
Ken Konecki
e-mail:kenk@sdc.com    -or-    ...!uunet!tellab5!sdc!kenk
"Getting an inch of snow is like winning 10 cents in the lottery"
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: garyp@rmtc.paramax.com (Gary Palangian [RMTC/ISP])
Subject: Re: When does it make sense to reduce the
Organization: Paramax Systems
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 21:39:15 GMT

|> John Eaton writes:
|> >Of course if your itemized deductions exceed the standard then you take them.
|> >My point is that in the past you would chose the path that gave you more
|> >deductions because of the high tax rates and low standard deduction. Now
|> >that is not always the case. I live in a state with no personal income
|> >tax and currently rent. The only thing I can deduct is charity contributions.
|> >
|> >If I were to buy a typical house I would get about $6800 to deduct the first
|> >year. But $3700 of that is already mine from the Standard deduction. So I
|> >lose about 1/2 from the start. If I were to buy a house after the middle
|> >of the year I probably wouldn't get enough deductions to be able to itemize.
|> 

I agree completely.  But most people live in states with income tax,
registration tax, and most people have medical expenses, school expenses,
casualty losses, etc.  Also, $6800 for the first year (considering it
is almost all interest), doesn't seem like much house (assuming
a non-intro mortgage rate).  I think $10-12K/year for a first house
(including taxes) is more realistic.  For the majority of folks, 
they can get close to their standard deduction without a house...
a house just pushes them over the edge, uh, so to speak.   

And I agree with Dave when he points out points as part of first 
year deductions.


:)

Gary P.

Hey, I paid more than $6800/year in rent.   :o Arghhhhhh!!!!
Xref: sparky misc.consumers.house:16634 misc.rural:2799
From: dabay@morse.cns.vt.edu (Marian Dabay)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,misc.rural
Subject: Re: Power company easement
Date: 12 Jan 93 16:19:29 GMT
Followup-To: misc.consumers.house
Distribution: misc
Organization: Virginia Tech, Blacksburg, VA

>In article <JCH.93Jan12084820@mitchell.cit.cornell.edu>, jch@jch@nr-tech.cit.cornell.edu (Jeffrey C Honig) writes:
>|> Our local power company (NY State Electric and Gas) just contacted me
>|> to request an easement to put a power pole on our property.  Are there
>|> any liabilities or disadvantages if we agree to this?  
>|> 

In article <1993Jan12.153819.29688@bcars6a8.bnr.ca> colette@bnr.ca (Colette George) writes:
>Well, I don't know too much about this subject, but I saw a program once
>where a farmer's livestock became sick and died off one by one when a
>hydro tower was installed on his property.  I have also read that there
>is evidence linking close proximity to hydro lines with leukemia in humans 
>and animals.  Then again, there is no "hard evidence" of this, so the findings 
>are still being investigated.  I'm not sure I would want to take a chance,
>though.  You may want to read up on the subject to become more informed
>before making a decision.

I think Colette is talking about high tension power lines.  

A few years ago we bought a nice farm that was right next to high
tension power lines.  We read a lot of the different reports and 
decided that it didn't pose anymore of a health threat than anything
else.  However, when we went to sell the house a few years later,
we had a tough time.  A lot of perspective buyers said that they loved
the house and the farm, but they wouldn't buy it because of the proximity
of the power lines.  It really does lower the property value, plus makes
it very difficult to resale.  For that reason alone, I would be wary 
of giving them the easement.  

Marian Dabay