HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: tran@aio.jsc.nasa.gov (JQ)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Need help with engine compression
Date: 16 Apr 92 17:08:40 GMT
Article-I.D.: aio.1992Apr16.170840.10102
Organization: JSC

Please show me how to access the FAQ file if there is one that's
relevant to my question here.
I want to know if any of the (snake?) oil for "restoring
engine compression" would work at all.  There are tons of
oil cans of these types that you can buy
for 3 to 10 bucks, and pour it into your engine to let
it mix with engine oil and magically boost the cylinders
compression to "original level".

I doubt if this would work very well at all (90 weight gear
oil would do the same trick).  
Please DO REPLY and share your experience.  Thanks a bunch.
JQ
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: zardoz@rx-db (zardoz@rx-db.hf.intel.com)
Subject: Re: rolling a car
Organization: Intel Development Tools Operation, Hillsboro, OR
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 92 15:58:07 GMT

How to roll a car:

Get going at least 40 mph.  Enter the batmobile turn manuever.  When the car
is completely sideways, mash on the brake pedal hard.  Lean over onto the
passenger's seat and hook your right arm under the glove box.

I haven't tried this and I don't advocate it.  Don't do it!


-- 
Fan mail may be sent to:
zardoz@rx-db.hf.intel.com
From: pharvey@mipos3.intel.com (Paul Harvey)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Question on affect of caster, camber, toe. (Mustang 5.0)
Date: 6 Apr 92 19:54:57 GMT

In article <1992Mar29.103852.20453@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu> lusky@hal.gnu.ai.mit.edu (Jonathan R. Lusky) writes:
>The only way to know if your camber is where it needs to be is to look at
>how your tires are wearing. 

Well, if you want to do it that way, the only way to set camber is based on
you or your driver's times. But a tire thermometer would come in handy for real
world measurements.

>I know several people with late model 5.0 Mustangs that run stock camber specs 
>(0 degrees) and wearout the outside edges of their tires very rapidly due to 
>their driving styles. One of them finally set the camber as negative as it 
>would go on his 89 LX and his tires now wear flat (and yes, he does happen 
>to autocross on his street tires...).

Yeah, but how negative is "as negative as it would go"? I'm guessing that
it's probably about -1 without mods. And your friends would probably get better 
traction during Xcross with a degree or two more. Better yet, tell your friends
to drive smoother, they're probably scrubing too much. These cars have Mac-strut 
front ends, right? So the problem with this suspension is that in order to get 
no net camber change with body roll, the strut has to be angled some 60 degrees. 
Most manufactures don't do this, because it takes up too much room inside. So -1
camber roughly compensates for the body roll your friend is getting while
"performance driving". If your friend were to drive cross-country, he might
want to set his camber back to 0, since there are not a lot of curves
between here and there, and -1 would give more inside were on a tire in the
straights.

From: maurice@hp-ptp.ptp.hp.com (Maurice Liang)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 00:43:49 GMT
Subject: Re: '87 Mercury Sable needs heater core
Organization: HP Pacific Technology Park - Sunnyvale, Ca.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

My friend is a mechanic at an independent shop that specializes on Fords.
The one job he has forewarned me about (I own an '87 Sable wagon) is replacing
the heater core.  "It's a bitch".  Sound's like the same opinion everyone
else has too.

Maurice
From: u8acb@ohm.york.ac.uk (Alex Barclay)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Turbocharger VS. Supercharger.
Date: 8 Apr 92 11:05:17 GMT
Organization: Electronics Department, University of York, UK

In <5312@nosc.NOSC.MIL> koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz) writes:


>this *is* rec.autos.TECH and that technical and technological correctness is
>appropriate here.  

At the risk of starting another flame war I would like to agree that
technical correctness is important on this group. For the non TECHnical
questions and answers then how about rec.autos.

BTW Does anyone know of a book something along the lines of "INTERNAL
COMBUSTION ENGINES MADE QUITE TOUGH WITH ALL THE MATHS" well perhaps not
that strong but certainly not a Kevin soups up his Mk 1 Escort by buying
bits off the shelf type book. No offence to Mk 1 Escort engine tuners
who know what they're doing here ;-)

			Alex.
From: Steve.Kaess@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Steve Kaess)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Toyota Landcruiser Question
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1992 21:39:37 -0500

In this area land cruisers are rare, so parts are hard to come by, 
both new and used.  You might be better off with a blazer/bronco 
in a used one, or any of the universe of new sport/utilitys available 
new unless they are a lot more land cruisers out in ca.



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kghosh@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Kaushik Ghosh)
Subject: 81 Mazda 626 Lx rpm problem
Organization: The Ohio State University
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 18:50:30 GMT

My friends '81 Mazda 626 Lx has very low rpm when starting...He follows the 
starting instuctions explictly viz. flooring the accelerator, starting etc. 
However, nothing seems to work, but the car neve stalls...mechanic suggests 
carb ovehaul/replacement.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Kaushik
From: stanford@retina.waisman.wisc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Redline vs. Amsoil in SHO transaxle
Date: 6 Apr 92 20:08:17 GMT
Article-I.D.: retina.6APR92.14081731
Organization: Waisman Center, University of Wisconsin-Madison


        My apologies to anyone who may have tried to reply to my query
about the relative merits of Amsoil vs. Redline in a SHO transaxle -
the E-mail address at the end of the message should have read STANFORD@
WAISMAN.WISC.EDU, not STAINFORD@.....
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hacker@cco.caltech.edu (Jonathan Bruce Hacker)
Subject: Re: electrical problem, can't figure out why!
Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1992 22:34:20 GMT

carlos@athertn.Atherton.COM (Carlos Chang) writes:


>Symptoms:

>At night, lights on or heater is on, the alternator light glows a bit.  
>If I put it in reverse, (backuplight come on) the alt.light glows a bit more.
>The idle is not steady (exhaust leak in manifold?)  RRRRrrrrrRRRRrrrrRRRRr
> ..etc.The glowing alt.light goes up and down with the idle.
>If I rev the motor, the alt.light does NOT dim as I would expect!



First thing I would check is a bad ground between the engine
and the body of the car.  

-- 
Jon Hacker
Caltech, Pasadena CA
hacker@tumbler-ridge.caltech.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.vw
From: pz@keps.kodak.com (Paul Czarnecki)
Subject: Weber 32/36 DFV question
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Keywords: weber carb
Organization: Kodak Electronic Printing Systems
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 13:59:44 GMT

I need to rebuild the carb on my 1973 vw micro bus.  It does NOT have
the original dual carbs on it.  They were replaced by the previous
owner with a single Weber.  The number on the base of the weber is
32/36 DFV, next to these numbers are 23-A 7B.  My local Very Good
Parts Store (No Airfresheners) doesn't list this model in their
catalogs.  They did find a 32/36 DFEV and 32/36 DFAV. 

How can I tell which one I have or if either of this will work?

Please respond via email, I'll let the net know the answer when I find
out.  (This has been posted to rec.autos.tech as well as rec.autos.vw,
If you insist on following up, I have redirected followups to
rec.autos.tech since it likely isn't vw specific.)

Thanks.

					pZ
					pz@keps.kodak.com
From: conrad@pico.OZ (Conrad Drake)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Question on affect of caster, camber, toe.
Date: 13 Apr 92 08:03:10 GMT
Reply-To: conrad@pico.qpsx.oz.au
Organization: QPSX Communications

jrallen@devildog.att.com (Jon Allen) writes:
: 
: Can driving habits really cause that type of wear??  And I wonder how
: many people this happens to?   Maybe alignment should better matach these
: driving styles....

I pit-crew for a guy running a "stock" car class.  We use road radials
and lowered McPherson strut front ends.  To make the tyres work we run
some 6-8 degrees static negative on the front left and 4ish on the right
front.  (Our circuit has a lot of hard right turns).

[explanation - lowering (and widening) the front stuffs the camber
curves so we need to dial in almost as much camber as we get body roll.
Such are the joys of production cars]

We also run our tyres at 44psi hot (50ish degrees celcius)

Conrad Drake
---
Conrad Drake 			                  conrad@pico.qpsx.oz.au
"If this is heaven I'm bailing out!" 
                           - The Birthday Party c. 1980
QPSX Communications, Australia. (ph) 61 9 324 1641, (fx) 61 9 321 2984.
From: mikep@cfsmo.honeywell.com (Mike Polo)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Remote/Battery Operated Detectors? (was Re
Date: 9 Apr 92 01:19:07 GMT
Article-I.D.: src.1992Apr9.011907.11273
Reply-To: mikep@cfsmo.honeywell.com
Organization: Honeywell Commercial Flight Systems


In article 24512@eff.org, peterco@eff.org (Peter A. Cohen) writes:
>Does anyone have experience with battery operated radar detectors or
>radar detectors that use a sensing unit that's installed in the grille of
>the car?

I bought a Cincinatti Microwave SOLO, and I *LOVE* it.  When I lived in Houston,
*COUNTLESS* friends had their cars broken into, windows smashed, just for their
radar detector.  I just get it out of my pocket and put it on the dash, and
when I leave the car, it goes back in the pocket.  No cords, no detector on
the dash, and it is even theft protected.

The sensitivity is very good, but I was on vacation driving through Wyoming and
got pulled over - the detector had not gone off at all!  (Only ticket I got in
the last two years)  When I started thinking about it, and I realized it hadn't 
gone off at all since Montana (the land of freedom  99mph=$5)  I sent it back to 
Cincinatti Microwave, and they replaced something (I thought it was the waveguide)
and the battery.  I started thinking about it and I thought the problem might
actually have been the circuitry that detects when the battery is getting weak.
Just to make sure, I always replace the battery regularly.

It is also very loud, sturdy and the LED's are bright when you want them.

I'd paint over the little green power light at night though.

Mike

Mike Polo
Honeywell Commercial Flight Systems
From: george@mech.seas.upenn.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: rolling a car
Date: 9 Apr 92 23:50:22 GMT
Organization: University of Pennsylvania, Mechanical Engineering

:slide rather than roll _in_steady_state_cornering_.  However, many cars
:with relatively high CG's (or narrow width) and with low roll stiffness
:can certainly be "coaxed" into rolling by going hard one way and then
:hard the other way, thereby setting up a pendulum effect.

Did anyone see the ConsumerRep test driver roll the Samurai?
He had to do a little more than 'coax' it.  I'd say he rocked
it back and forth at least 8-10 times.  Knowing how painfully
slow the steering ratio is, my arms got tired just watching.

--
-george            george@mech.seas.upenn.edu
From: jim@mwhhlaw (James P. Cavanaugh III)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Sick of vibrating wheel
Date: 16 Apr 92 12:29:02 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Martin_Wade_Hartley_&_Hollingsworth

In article <1992Apr15.213854.28986@intelhf.hf.intel.com>  
sjohnso@hfglobe.intel.com (Steven Johnson) writes:
> I've been following the thread on home brewed methods for
> alignment (toe-in and camber etc.).  I've been having a 
> problem with a wheel that I cannot seem to get any of 
> the garages Big-O and the like to balance correctly.  It 
> seems that it was only done right after I paid dearly for
> a 4 wheel alignment.  There after whenever the tires are
> rotated and balanced, there's always that same wheel that
> never seems to get balanced and I can always tell where 
> the unbalanced wheel is moved to.  
> 
> Is there a way I can correct this problem myself with
> some decent accuracy?  Any help with correcting this
> problem would be greatly appreciated as I am getting
> sick of the annoying vibration from that one wheel.
> 
> I almost forgot, the car is a 1986 Nissan Sentra (made
> in August 1985).  Stock wheels.  
> 
> Thanks for any information
> 
> Steven

My guess would be either a bad wheel or a bad tire.  Either the wheel  
rim has been bent somehow, or the tire is our of round.  The cheapest  
thing to try is to have the offending wheel taken off the car, rotate  
the tire 180 degrees on the wheel, and then re-balance.  This sometimes  
works because most tires and wheels are not perfectly round, and  
occasionally the tire and wheel can be matched so that the high spots  
compound themselves instead of cancel each other out.
	If that doest't work, the second cheapest approach is to swap  
tires between the bad wheel and a good wheel, and then re-balance.  If  
the problem persists, you'll at least know whether the problem is the  
tire or the wheel (as long as you remember where which one got  
mounted).  Then replace whichever is bad.
	Although I have never tried it, there are some shops that will  
shave the excessive runout from a tire, making it as close to perfectly  
round as you can get in the real world. 

Jim Cavanaugh 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ravalent@rodan.acs.syr.edu (Readin' News)
Subject: RE: 500" caddy problems
Organization: Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 92 22:25:49 EDT

	Reguarding the Caddy-

    1.   15" vacume at idle (in park, I assume) sounds a little on the
low side.  I would belive that it should be about 20". Check for a 
vaccume leak, althoulgh you probably already have.  Might also be 
a sticking EGR valve, if so equipped.  If this was the case, you \
would probalby have to set the idle mixture rather rich.

    2.  The coughing up thru the carb shounds to me like a problem in the 
timing or ignition, like a little too much advance, sticking advance, which
the HEI sometimes does or completly non-functional advance.  I've heard that
the HEI  can wear the pin where it hinges on the shaft, or wear the weight
itself.  

    3. The popping thru the EHXAUST (if it exists) has, in my experience,     
been caused by plugs, even tho some of them looked clean/ok.

   I've had this problem in my Olds 350, and a new carb (carter AFB)
solved it finally.  I've found that the problem will really show itself
it you torque-brake the car.  That is, put it in drive, stomp the brakes,
and give it gas.  If the problem is fixed, it should just try and accelerate,
not cough or hesitate.

DISCLAIMER : torque-braking is DETRIMENTAL to transmission life.  You shouldn't
do it for more than a few seconds, and I assume no responsiblity for your
actions.  I do it with a race-prepped T-400, cause it can take it, and,
my friend owns a tranny shop..... =^8).
  
  500" Eldo?  Now THAT'S front wheel drive!

  ------>   Bob
		  ravalent@rodan.acs.syr.edu

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jochenw@rama.informatik.rwth-aachen.de (Jochen Wolters)
Subject: Defective steering gear
Organization: RBI - RWTH Aachen
Date: 15 Apr 92 17:00:18 GMT

Hi all,

  I got some serious problems with my Bronco II's steering gear. It started
some weeks ago with excessive steering play and today I tried to readjust it
by adjusting the mesh preload, hoping this would have some effect. It did
not... Result: a steering that still has way too much play and is so hard to
operate that the steering hardly centers by itself anymore, even after loose-
ning the adjusting screw!!! :-(
  So, what can I do now? Will a rebuild help to cure these problems or do I
actually need a new steering gear? What would I have to pay for a rebuild or
a new box, respectively ("new" one from a wrecked Bronco II)? May it be 
possible to even rebuild the box at home (overhaul kits are available even here
in Germany...) or is this too complicated a task?
  Any help is greatly appreciated!!

  See ya,
             Jochen.
-- 
Jochen Wolters       |       jochenw@cip-s02.informatik.rwth-aachen.de  
----------------------------------------------------------------------
 "In hardware engineering, Ohm's law and Maxwell's equations pale in
  importance and influence next to Murphy's law."        - Gordon Bell
From: koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Turbocharger VS. Supercharger.
Date: 8 Apr 92 11:25:09 GMT
Article-I.D.: nosc.5314
Organization: Naval Ocean Systems Center, San Diego

In article <johnson.702696715@wrs.com> johnson@wrs.com (David Johnson) writes:
>koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz) writes:

>>In article <gt2t7th@rpi.edu> stiegg@aix02.ecs.rpi.edu (Gregory Mark Stiegler) writes:

>>>And I suppose you refer to detonation as Thermal Preignition of Combustables
>>>many of us here don't want a college symposium here...there is a differnce,
>>>most of us are practical, not theoretical.

>>well, if i did, i would be incorrect since detonation and preignition are
>>distinctly different phenomena.  seems like an appropriate time to recall that
>>this *is* rec.autos.TECH and that technical and technological correctness is
>>appropriate here.  

>Yes but is anal retentiveness?

and since when is correctness anal retentive?  except the isolated instances of
'politically-correct'?

perhaps if you have such a dislike for the dissemination of factual
information, you should strive for the creation of
rec.autos.myths.and.old.wives.tales.instead.of.truth

otherwise sit back, read and learn

walt k.
Organization: Freshman, H&SS general, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 02:33:48 -0400 
From: Paul M Taylor <pt1e+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Small Eight in '80 Pinto

If i would get the opportuniy to put an eight into my car I want to go
for it.  Fours don't cut it.  

Mid seventy mustangs came with 302's and an automatic or manual
transmission.            
 I see that these cars share a lot of the same components. I.e. Exhaust,
rear end set ups. etc.  If I can get one of these cars as a donor,
Shouldn't all of this stuff drop into my pinto?  I've also heard that I
might have clearance problems in the hood area.  Last thing I want to do
is cut the hood.  Sleeper effect is the way to go.


What about 78-82? Mustangs?  Engine and mounts? because rear ends are different
Any Ideas on the possibility of this working?

Thanx,
Paul
From: kz08+@andrew.cmu.edu (Ken Zuroski)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Ford 150 Blues
Date: 8 Apr 92 19:59:53 GMT
Organization: Doctoral student, English, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA

Greetings:

Last night, as I was revving up to drop off some videos I had
rented, I shifted my 1986 Ford F150 truck into reverse in order
to back out of the driveway. Though of course the clutch was in,
the gears seemed to engage immediately and hence the truck jolted
backward. "Hm," I said to myself, "I must have not had the clutch
in all the way." Well, about 2 miles from my house, suddenly I am
finding myself having extreme difficulty in shifting the gears. 
I finally had to pull over, as I could not get the gearshift out
of neutral. There was no phone nearby, and so I walked about a 1/2
mile up the road and back again to the truck; this is relevant in
that when I again got into the cab and cranked up the engine, I
was again able to shift, though with difficulty--enough to get me
home.

The clutch suddenly had a great deal of free play in it. The truck
has a hydraulic clutch linkage, and I checked the level of the
fluid in the master cylinder; it was very low and I refilled it. This
did not solve the problem--the truck will only shift into high
gears, and that with difficultly; after a couple of attempts I
stopped trying in fear that I would (further) damage the transmission.
I supposed that there could be air in the clutch fluid, but I could
not find a bleeder valve on the slave cylinder. 

So, what do you think it is? I would guess transmission problems
except for the fact that the clutch pedal itself suddenly seems
to have a lot of free play. On the other hand, I can't find
anything wrong with the clutch itself--maybe it needs to be 
adjusted at this point. There were absolutely no prior symptoms
before the catastrophic failure of the clutch/transmission.
Examination of the underbody shows a bit of oil around the
area of the transmission, but it seems that it is mostly coming
from the gasket around the crankcase--in any event, there are no
great pools of oil spewing out, and there is oil in the gear box,
filled to the bottom of the filler hole. 

Any ideas, suggestions, would be very much welcomed. The truck
ain't going anywhere, as is. 

kz


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Ken Zuroski
Department of English
Carnegie Mellon University
Pittsburgh, PA 15213 USA
kz08@cmu.edu
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: fragante@unixg.ubc.ca (Gv Fragante)
Subject: Dunlop Qualifier GTs
Organization: University of British Columbia, Vancouver, B.C., Canada
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1992 17:18:30 GMT

Can anyone comment on the Dunlop Qualifier GTs ? I am looking for a low-profile
all-season tire that is not too $$$ (205/50/15). The D60 A2 does not come in
this size (as far as I have checked). What other brands have equivalent
characteristics to the Qualifiers ?
From: schramb@ucsu.Colorado.EDU (SCHRAM BRIAN K)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Fuel octane versus power
Date: 8 Apr 92 20:34:00 GMT
Article-I.D.: ucsu.1992Apr8.203400.13198
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder

Jon <JBEST@ESOC.BITNET> writes:

>Does anyone out there know how a change in octane rating affects power?
>AND BEFORE YOU LEAP IN and say higher octane - more power, what I'd like
>to know is whether there's a fixed relation between octane and power.
>F'rinstance if you bump up the octane by x% how can you calculate the
>percentage change in power?

>Just curious!

>   Jon
Delta Power = Delta Octane * 0 * C
C = relative cost factor related to the cost of the increased
octane.  But since the whole damn thing is multiplied by 0, 
the smart money isn't on increased octane, unless required
becuase you advance the timing.
Delta Power = Delta Timing Advace * K^F
K = constant related to compression of engine and a zillion other
factors.
F = constant related to other factors not included in the calculation
of K.
in short, to sum up ... increasing octane isn't going to give you
any measurable power increases.  advancing your timing will in some
cases give you more power.  more octane is needed (generally and relatively
speaking) if you choose to advance the timing.  if you advance the timing,
and you aren't running fuel with high enough octane rating, you'll
turn your pistons and valves and heads into scrap aluminum, chromium,
steel, iron, etc.
and sadly, there isn't a simple relationship between timing and power,
thats why every tom dick and harry can't set up the ultimate motor.
hope that helps.

      
hope that helps.

Delta Timing Advance