HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: killoran@ll.mit.edu (Mike Killoran)
Subject: Installing new front door
Originator: killoran@ll.mit.edu (Mike Killoran)
Reply-To: killoran@ll.mit.edu (Mike Killoran)
Organization: group_102
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 92 17:54:33 GMT

Hi,

	I want to replace my front door.  The threshold of the old
one has rotted out from weather and ants.  My house has no gutters
and the water splashing off the front steps has done its damage
over the years.  Actually, the sill of the house where the front
steps are has been replaced (I can tell from the basement that the 
wood is newer than the surrounding sill).  The sill is still in good
shape (some flashing was installed so water doesn't hit the sill
any more), but the door's molding is soft and punky.

	My idea is to pull out the old door and any outside molding 
that is soft, and replace the old door with a new pre-hung steel one.
Then I will install new molding to replace what was damaged.  I was
even thinking of using some pressure treated wood for this (is that
OK?).

	In order to buy a new door, I have to measure the old one
(no kidding huh?), and this is where I'm having trouble.  At
Home Depot (a lumber-yard type place) they told me all they have
are doors with 4-9/16 or 6-9/16 inch jambs.  They say there are no
other sizes, it just depends on if your house is built with 2x4's
or 2x6's.  My jamb seems to measure 5-1/4 inches!  I am reasonably
sure this is correct, because the previous owners put on an addition
and tore out the side door (which is laying in the basement) and this
door's jamb is 5-1/4.

	So what's the deal?  What are my walls built with to give
this odd jamb size?  By the way, I talked to another lumber yard
(Summerville Lumber) and they said to just measure the jamb, and
they would order it.  I want to make sure I'm doing this right 
though.  I am sure I'm measuring the right place (just the width 
of the jamb, no molding included) because I can get at an exterior
door in the new addition and I measured it's jamb as 6-9/16 and the
walls are 2x6's.

	If anyone has replaced an exterior door and has some
helpful hints on the installation, let me know -- I'll summarize
if there's interest about this.


Thanks, 
	Mike Killoran

	killoran@ll.mit.edu
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: toml@wal.hp.com (Tom Luteran)
Subject: X10-based garage door openers
Keywords: garage X10 x10 door opener
Organization: Hewlett-Packard
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 16:50:35 GMT

  Hi!

    I just helped a friend install two Sears garage door openers and we
    tested the transmitters last night.  It's nice that the openers provide
    three function buttons, allowing each opener to open either door or both
    separately, with a different button.  This leaves one extra button 
    available for the control of a third receiver connected to a light or
    something else, after you buy a special receiver separately from Sears.

    My question is this: Is this receiver a radio unit?  Are there some
    garage door units (Stanley comes to mind) which offer this additional
    light control but which provide same through X10 vs. radio???
    
    I'd prefer to use the X10 gear I already have connected to the lights.
    I guess I could use the X10 remote to close a universal switch module
    to open the door.  If I do this, can I save any money if I buy a door
    opener with a remote control receiver/transmitter?
    

  Tom

+----------------------------------------------------+
| Thomas Luteran           | INTERNET address:       |
| Hewlett-Packard Company  | toml@wal.hp.com         |
| Medical Products Group   | HP TELNET: 1-290-3021   |
| 175 Wyman Street         | VOICE: (617) 290-3021   |
| Waltham, MA. 02254-9030  | FAX: (617) 890-5451     |
+----------------------------------------------------+

+ Opinions presented above are my own & not necessarily those of my employer +


Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,talk.politics.guns
From: tmkk@uiuc.edu (Khan)
Subject: Re: Killing burglars.
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 18:10:29 GMT


In article <1992Aug15.204131.1158@henson.cc.wwu.edu> n9020351@henson.cc.wwu.edu (James Douglas Del-Vecchio) writes:
>
>Followups directed to talk.politics.guns, as the topic demands.
>becker@edwards-vax.af.mil writes:
>
>>All this about killing burglers and the justice system......I have some
>>comments.
>
>	One nit.  Burglars break in during the day, when they think you 
>are gone.  Home invaders break in at night, because they don't mind a
>little rape and murder to brighten up their night, and they don't give
>a rats ass if you are home or not.   Different kinds of criminal 
>prefer different times to attack.

A nit to your nit: There's nothing in the definition of either "burglar"
or "home invader" which specifies that one can only burgle between the
hours of 8 and 5. I think my nit negates your nit. ;-)
From: rwl@uvacs.cs.Virginia.EDU (Ray Lubinsky)
Subject: Re: Mice
Reply-To: rwl@server.cs.Virginia.EDU
Organization: University of Virginia Computer Science Department
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 13:03:32 GMT

In article <1992Aug12.222445.11219@wri.com>, markm@wri.com writes:
: 
> My DOG loves to catch mice.  I live two doors down from a cornfield, so the  
> little field mice come in every winter.  Aiko (my dog) will hear the scratching  
> and just sit and wait for a mouse to pop it's head out.  And that's all she  
> wrote!  It's just like a big game for him, and truly hilarious to watch.


I wish my cats were that persistent.  They drag live mice in through
their kitty door, play with them for a while and then "lose" them.
Right now I've got a little field mouse living somewhere in my
kitchen.

Unfortunately, the cats are rather indifferent.  They'd rather go out
and find one in the woods than chase one that they've already
stockpiled!


-- 
| Ray Lubinsky                              rwl@cs.Virginia.EDU        |
| Computer Systems Engineer,                lubinsky@virginia (BITNET) |
| Department of Computer Science,           804-982-2219       (voice) |
| University of Virginia                    804-982-2214         (FAX) |
From: tanner@bcsaic.boeing.com (Jim Tanner)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: ADVICE NEEDED: Shake roof maintenance
Date: 19 Aug 92 04:53:26 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Boeing Computer Services AI Center, Seattle

In article <1992Aug17.233044.10854@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie) writes:
>In article <1992Aug17.190515.619@ultra.com> wayne@ultra.com (Wayne Hathaway) writes:
>>I have recently acquired a three-story house with a shake roof
>>underneath pine trees.  A very nice place, but the roof is COVERED
>>with pine needles (not to mention the gutters).
>
>That's wood shingles, right? Not the best design under the circumstances.
>Get the needles off, though. They'll rot the roof.

Yes.  Very important.  I cleaned my roof by 1) scraping out the spaces
between the shakes with a narrow stick, to break up the compacted pine
needles (this is where the real damage occurs, because the crud holds
moisture against the shakes, and the gap is positioned over a thinner
part of the underlying shake) , and 2) using a backpack blower unit
(> 100 MPH air stream) to blow the junk off the roof, and from out of
the spaces between the shakes.  Much neater than using a hose, which
would make the shakes super slippery.

>>Is it feasible to consider sweeping it and cleaning the gutters
>>myself?  If so, can anybody offer advice on what to do for a safety
>>harness?  What kind of broom/brush to use?  What's the best way to
>>walk on shingles without busting them loose?  Anything else (other
>>than to buy more life insurance)?
>
>Feasible, yes; sensible, no. Three stories is a bit much. The only times
>I've been on wood shingled roofs was just before laying a new roof. My
>experience at this is that I can't walk on them without damaging the
>roof, and I weigh less than 150 pounds.

I've walked all over my 1-story shake roof without damaging the shakes,
and I weigh 220.  I wear a pair of sturdy shoes and strap on a pair of
"corkers".  These are sort of like strap-on golf shoes, with blunt
spikes on the bottom.  All the professional roofers I've seen use
them.  They give great traction, even on wet shakes which would
otherwise be as slick as ice.  You can get them at most any good
professional roofing supply house.

>>By the way, there's no way to reach even a fraction of the gutters
>>with any kind of ladder; it'll all have to be done from the roof.
>
>No way. It'll have to be done from a ladder or scaffolding. Either buy a
>ladder long enough, rent scaffolding for the job, or hire someone who
>will. Try to walk on the roof is asking for trouble.

I too would be leery of working on a 3-story roof.  You can get safety
harnesses, but I have no particular knowledge of them.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: Home owners Insurance -- Farmers versus Allstate
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 19:26:26 GMT

Gary Palangian writes
> You can purchase a $1 million liability umbrella policy for around
> $120/year.  In my opinion, you've got to be a little tetched if you
> can justify not buying such policies....

Yes, but before you can get the umbrella policy you've got to have your regular  
policies limits maxed out. You can't have a $50,000 policy and add the $1  
million umbrella for $120 - you've first got to increase your regular policy's  
coverage to its limit (usually to $500,000), which is quite expensive to do.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: garyp@gvls2.gvl.unisys.com (Gary Palangian)
Subject: Re: Help! Washing Machine Spews out Flakes
Organization: Unisys Defense Systems, Great Valley Labs, Paoli, Pa
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 23:38:49 GMT




I beginning to think that Sears really sucks!

Gary

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: paigen@tfs.com (David Paigen)
Subject: Re: Killing burglars.
Organization: TRW Financial Systems
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 23:32:08 GMT

lowry@watson.ibm.com (Andy Lowry) writes:

>In article <1992Aug19.191133.18443@cc.gatech.edu> duggan@cc.gatech.edu (Rick Duggan) writes:
> > In article <1992Aug19.163045.374@informix.com> davek@informix.com (David Kosenko) writes:
> > >I think it would be sad for someone to spend time in prison for kiiling
> > >a theif.
> > 
> > I agree with the discussion about not depriving a ``thief'' of
> > his (or her) rights to a fair trial.  However, the main point is that at
> > 2:00 in the morning, I know nothing about the motive of the invader
> > in my home.  It is merely prudent to worst-case the scenario and
> > assume you (and/or your family) are going to be harmed.  Yes, 
> > it would be sad to kill a thief (and if I *knew* he were only 
> > going to take my TV, I wouldn't shoot to kill).  But the point is 
> > that I don't *know* that.

>Gee, you might better blast away at that person who's running toward
>you down the dark sidewalk at 2:30am.  Heck, you don't *know* that
>he's not about to knock you out and take your money.  Or for that
>matter, the motorist who's speeding toward the intersection you happen
>to be crossing *might* be intoxicated and about to run you down, as
>opposed to simply being an aggressive driver with late braking habits.
>So you'd better off them too.

Different circumstances, and not related enough for real comparison.  An
intruder in your home has already committed a crime, trespass.  Further-
more, you know that this crime has been commited, you don't know anything
of the sort about the guy on the street at 2am.

I learned something about law awhile back that I think applies to this
thread.  As a disclaimer, let me mention that this was common law I
learned about, not modern, statutory law.

When someone breaks into your home or place of business, you are allowed
to use force in order to prevent them from commiting an additional crime,
such as larceny.  I don't believe that you can use deadly force (e.g.
holding a loaded gun and saying "freeze!") unless you are defending
people, not property.  I could be wrong about that part.  But if the
intruder is holding a weapon, or something that can be used as a weapon,
or is much bigger than you are, then you can use deadly force.

If the intruder is running away, even if they have your TV in their arms,
you MAY NOT use deadly force, because you are not preventing a crime.
The crime has already been commited.  I am sure about this part.

----------------------->"Lay on, McDuff,    14th c. ideals in a 21st c. world
David Paigen            and damn'd be he        N: PLO Bush IRA CIA KKK
TRW Financial Systems   who first cries,        S: terrorism pipe bomb kill
paigen@tfs.com          'hold, enough!'"        A: assasination maim
From: simnet@ssc-vax.boeing.com (Mark R Poulson)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: How to Hang a Carpet Face Down on the ceiling?
Summary: On the right track!!!
Keywords: carpet, ceiling
Date: 17 Aug 92 19:59:56 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Boeing Defense and Space Group, Seattle WA

In article <1992Aug14.172016.25530@porthos.cc.bellcore.com>, din@dasher.uucp (Dinesh Nettar) writes:
> We have a 9'X6' silk hand-knotted carpet that is too big for our walls.
> In the interim, we want to hang it face down from the living room ceiling.
> 
> Our ceiling has studs every 24 inches, covered by half-inch
> drywall.  The carpet is quite heavy, about 50 lbs.  The knots
> are very close, and only a fine wire or thread can go through.
> A thin nail can, if I carefully find the gap between the knots.
> 
> I tried screwing in several 1X3's to the ceiling
> and nailing the carpet, but the thin nails simply slipped from
> the wood.
> 
> Can I use adhesive tape?  Will it take the weight?

I think you had the right idea with the nails. You really need at least an
inch of the nail in the wood for it to hold. Hopefully a 4D nail will fit
between the carpet knots. You didn't say how you put it up with the nails,
but you should realize that one nail probably isn't going to take the entire
weight of the carpet without pulling out. You need to hold the carpet onto
the ceiling (with a few helping hands or wedged with a board and ladder).
Then nail it onto the 1x3's and don't remove the support until you have at
least 6 nails (evenly spaced) holding up the thing.

If you did it this way and the nails still pulled out, then try putting some
hooks into the ceiling (or the nail holes in the 1x3). Now, loop some thin
STEEL wire (the green stuff used for silk flowers works well) into a U shape
and poke it through the carpet. Twist the top of the U closed and hang it from
the hooks. This could be combined with the nail method if you really want the
carpet to be flat against the ceiling.

I'd forget about the adhesive tape if you're pulling out nails!.

		Mark

wi
From: tanner@bcsaic.boeing.com (Jim Tanner)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Killing burglars.
Date: 18 Aug 92 17:19:10 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Boeing Computer Services AI Center, Seattle

In article <1992Aug14.181611.23008@informix.com> davek@informix.com (David Kosenko) writes:

>if someone breaks a law, it is up to the system to find them guilty.
>Someone breaking into your house *still* has the right to due
>process under the law.  Sure, if they threaten your life, you can
>shoot/whatever them in self defence.  The onus is on *you*, though, to
>be able to prove your life was threatened.  This does not always lead

I believe that in many jurisdications (too bad it's not all) the mere
presence of an intruder in an occupied house is prima facie evidence of
a threat to the lives of the occupants, which then justifies the use of
deadly force.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: battan@sequent.com (Jim Battan)
Subject: Re: Which garage door opener to use?
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems Inc.
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 92 04:30:30 GMT

In article <1992Aug19.221035.29525@news.mentorg.com> gcagle@dracula.mentorg.com (Greg Cagle) writes:
>What about noise? Our old Sears opener sounds like Armaggedon when
>it operates, and I can't seem to make it any quieter.

Not only does our Sears sound horrible, both its button and remote control
operate intermittently.  I don't recommend you buy one.  I was very happy
with the Stanley I had in my previous house.

-- 
Jim Battan - Sequent Computer Systems, Beaverton, OR
battan@sequent.com or uunet!sequent!battan
+1 503 578 5129
Xref: sparky misc.consumers.house:11095 ca.environment:805
From: jeffz@cray.com (Jeff Zais)
Subject: Re: small grass mowers
Organization: Cray Research, Inc
Distribution: usa
Date: 20 Aug 92 12:44:18 CDT

 seeker@copper.ucs.indiana.edu (Karen Lynn White) writes:
> 
> 
> I need a small lawn mower and would very much like advice.  
> I also don't want to pay a lot more than I need to.  
> The space to be mowed is only a total of about 2000 sqare feet
> at most and may be much smaller as I add flower beds.  I would like to mow
> efficiently but it would also be nice if the mower were small enough
> that my 10 year old could push it around.  I do want the grass to be
> bagged so I can use it for mulch on flower beds

You might consider an old-style reel lawn mower.  I've used one this year
for my lawn which is at least twice the area you have.  Our model was
available at both a local hardware store and Wal-Mart for about $70, plus
$15 for the bag.  My only complaint is that the bag has to be emptied a 
bit too often.  Even though it has a lot of capacity, when if fills to a 
certain level the bagged grass starts cycling through the reel again.  

On the plus side:
   * No noise (neighbors like this, especially at odd hours)
   * No trips to the gas station to get gas
   * Virtually no maintenance 
   * Pushes quite easily (lighter than the old models you may remember)
   * Environmentally friendly

And yes, it is easy to start.

> 
> My grass is growing and I need to make a choice and cut it by this 
> weekend.  Please help.  
> 

                                            Have fun,

                                            Jeff
From: SADELMAN@MIAMIU.BITNET
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Smell from fireplace
Date: 19 Aug 92 02:13:15 GMT
Organization: Miami University - Academic Computer Service

Help!  We moved into a house with a wood burning stove that was installed
 incorrectly.  We took out the wood stove and had a chimeny sweep clean
 the flue and the smoke shelf.  We continually get a really strong odor from
 the fire place - especially on warm and damp days.
 
 Does anyone have any suggestions for getting rid of the strong odor.  My wife
 is ready to SELL the house.
 
Please e-mail me with any advice.. thank you for your suggestions.
 
Saul W. Adelman
From: kennyl@Sun.COM (Kenny Lopez - Silicon Valley EDA District Sales Rep)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Caulk Removal and Noisy Pipes
Date: 17 Aug 1992 21:53:03 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Distribution: world
Reply-To: kennyl@Sun.COM (Kenny Lopez - Silicon Valley EDA District Sales Rep)
NNTP-Posting-Host: bonehead1.west.sun.com

I just finished removing an old tub enclosure and whats left
is all the old caulking. An earliar post recommended removing
the caulk with a razor blade. My question is does any one
know of a solvent that will remove the caulk that I cannot
remove using a razor blade? (ie unless I damage the tile).

I've recently noticed that whenever anyone uses the show
or bathtub, the sound of water running thru the pipes
is very loud. This only occurs when using the tub or shower,
not when using the sink or flushing the toliets.
Any clues or solutions?

Thanks,

Kenny
From: phil@eos.arc.nasa.gov (Phil Stone)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Elevating water heaters for safety
Date: 18 Aug 92 21:49:32 GMT
Organization: NASA Ames Res. Ctr, Calif.

jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond) writes:
>The logic is quite simple.  gasoline vapors are very heavy compared
>to air and will thus hug the floor.  They flow along the floor like an
>invisible liquid.  Unless a whole lot of gas is spilled in a closed 
>and totally stagnant area, the layer will not get more than a few 
>inches thick.

>The water heater pilot light, being mounted BELOW the tank in normally
>down in that layer.  A normal furnace, particularly an updraft one, has 
>the flame a couple of feet off the ground.  That makes a world of difference.

[I posed the question originally as to why the water heater was singled
out for raising, when the furnace seems like an ignition hazard as well]

That's a good explanation, John.  However, I checked the furnace again
and noticed that the pilot light is only about six inches off the floor.
This is a gravity furnace (is that what you mean by "updraft?")

So I'm sold on the water heater raising theory, but am now somewhat
concerned about the furnace.  It's much too massive to raise.

Is 6" enough height to be above gasoline vapors resulting from moderate
spills?  We have vents in the garage door, but they are installed about
six inches off the ground, as well.  I may seem to be obsessing about
this, but having left my last apartment via a smoke-filled third-story
window (neighbor burned the place, and himself, up), I am somewhat
attuned to issues of fire safety in my new home.


		Phil Stone  (phil@eos.arc.nasa.gov | ames!eos!phil)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: LVDUANE@SCIVAX.LERC.NASA.GOV (Duane Beach)
Subject: Flourescent bulbs in standard fixtures
Followup-To: misc.consumers.house
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 12:39:47 GMT

Yesterday I purchased one of the GE florescent lights for use in a standard
incandescent light socket.  The attractive features were its 20 Watt
consumption for the equaivalent light of a 75 Watt incandescent, and its
8000 hour life.

Not so attractive was its $22 price tag.  Still, I figure I'll save a
couple of bucks (versus incandescent) over the bulb's life and our local
electric utility will pollute less.  Other minor differences from
incandescent lights were (1) 30-45 second warm up time to full intensity,
and (2) a very slight color difference.

Is there a cheaper source for these things?  Perhaps an off-brand?  It will
need to be mail order If it's not part of a national chain or in the
Cleveland area..

Thanks,

Duane Beach
LVDUANE@SCIVAX.LERC.NASA.GOV
From: dick@hpscit.sc.hp.com (Dick Lucas)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 19:24:34 GMT
Subject: Re: Sears Garbage Disposal Repairs?
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Clara, CA
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house

With the cost of plumbers being what it is, I can't belive that it makes sense
to repair a garbage disposal unit.  If you are doing it yourself, the economics
may work, but garbage disposals are available for anywhere from $30 to $100
at home supply stores.  By the time you have an existing disposal repaired,
you are looking at 2 visits from the plumber and whatever shop time needed
to fix the disposal unit itself.  Plumbers in this area start at $40 -$50/hr,
which includes travel time.


From: spikes@hpscit.sc.hp.com (Bill Spikes)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 17:42:51 GMT
Subject: Re: Frogs in front yard
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Clara, CA
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house

I'd keep the frogs. You won't have any insect problems with the frogs around.
We once paid the neighborhood kids a quarter-a-toad to get a bunch for us.
We stuffed them under the edge of the stucco around the forundation of our
rented duplex. No more bugs of any kind, anywhere. Spiders, either.


Nothin' like toad ranchin'....

Bill

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house