HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: barrett@forge.gatech.edu (James Barrett)
Subject: Re: Cat Repellant
Keywords: Cat, Bird, Pounce, Kill
Organization: Georgia Tech College of Computing
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 19:53:48 GMT

I've got a twist on the problem with a neighbor's cat (I don't know 
which one).  The cat walks all over our cars leaving nice dirty 
paw-prints.  It's been awfully muddy in these parts lately and it's
driving me up the wall!  Is there anything I could line the driveway 
with just to discourage the cat from crossing where the cars are?

Thanks
-------------------OS/2 v2.0 -- Why settle for anything less?-----------------
James C. Barrett (barrett@cc.gatech.edu)| Atlanta Braves - 1991 and 1992   
Georgia Tech College of Computing       |    World Outdoor Baseball Champs!!
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: javery@bnr.ca (Joel Avery)
Subject: Re: The Dutch Challenge
Reply-To: javery@bnr.ca
Organization: Bell Northern Research
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 13:48:41 GMT

In article <72763220618796@grafix.eid.anl.gov>, jim@grafix.eid.anl.gov (Jim Kuiper) writes:
|> 
|> 5) Covertly (ha!) dig next to the storm sewer, drill through the culvert
|>    and run my sump pump line into it.  For that matter, I could pump my
|>    whole lot out.  And plant tulips.  And power it all with windmills.
|>    (You should see our electric bills.  The lights dim when the pump goes on.)

Well now, why should this be illegal?  The storm sewer is there to drain away
excess water, and this is what you have in the basement.  Certainly, draining
this water into the sanitary sewer is a bad move, but the storm sewer might
be a different story.  You might want to call whoever you pay your taxes to
to run that storm sewer - after all, you do own it.

I'll follow this thread with great interest.  In the spring, I pump about 
1500 gallons an hour out of my 120 year old basement.  I know that my 
problem is my asshole next door neighbour's land drainage.

Please post a followup, or email me a summary.

-- 

Joel
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: seeker@bronze.ucs.indiana.edu (karen lynn white)
Subject: plaster washers, ceiling buttons
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 17:42:33 GMT

Can someone tell me where I can buy something called either plastic washers
or ceiling buttons?  I read about them in this group and they sound exactly
like what I need.  But I've called every lumber yard, hardware store and
drywall place in town and can't find them.   I am going to need a mail order
address or the name of a catalog where they can be found.  Can anyone help?

thanks
Seeker@bronze.ucs.indiana.edu
From: JIM@UCF1VM.BITNET (Jim Ennis)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: mildew on drywall in bathroom
Date: 21 Jan 93 14:12:53 GMT
Organization: University of Central Florida--Computer Services

Hi,

 I am looking for suggestion on killing mildew on an area of drywall next
to my shower stall.  I tried dipping the area in bleach and painting over
it will a stain preventer and white paint.

As far as I can tell the wall area is not getting wet and there are no leaks
in the area of the wall.

TIA

Jim Ennis
University of Central Florida
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Pine Floors
From: gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston)
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 93 19:39:28 CST
Organization: Garys' Home for Obsolete Computers

rickt@rmtc.paramax.com (Rick Thompson [RMTC/ISP]) writes:

> I recently put up a post about using Pine for flooring.  Thanks for all
> the responses.  However, now I have another question.  All the responses
> I received indicate that Pine is soft and could be scratched and
> dented easily.  I suppose this is true if the floors were left mostly "raw" b
> doesn't a good polyurithane (sp?) provide a hard surface?  At least it should
> protect the floors from being scratched.

It's not thick enough to provide structural support; you're expecting
a layer of plastic the thickness of paper to hold up under a few 
hundred PSI (calculate before you flame, out there :-) ) without
solid support. Won't work. As my brother is well aware....

Gary Heston, at home....
gary@cdthq.uucp
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: saskaw@thelma.unx.sas.com (Kathryn Wisniewski)
Subject: Heat Pumps-Trane or Lennox?
Originator: saskaw@thelma.unx.sas.com
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 17:54:36 GMT
Organization: SAS Institute Inc.
Keywords: Heat pumps


I'm about to replace my home's heat pump and have gotten
three estimates.  All are for 11 SEER units, but two
are for Trane models and the third is for Lennox.  Prices
are pretty comparable, but the Lennox has a 10 year
warranty while the Trane has 5.  Can anyone give me
a recommendation of one brand over another?

Please eMail me at saskaw@thelma.unx.sas.com.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: hubcap@hubcap.clemson.edu (System Janitor)
Subject: Re: Cat Repellant
Organization: Clemson University
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 14:31:18 GMT

tvervaek@col.hp.com (Tom Vervaeke) writes:
>owner of the cat to keep it home. If not, either take action or call the
>animal control folks. Why should your life be altered due to lack of
>control of someone else?

That's right. If they can't keep the cat in the house all the time,
send it to the pound. Why even go the tinyest bit out of your way for
your neighbor?

-Mike
From: GA.MCL@forsythe.stanford.edu (Mark C. Lawrence)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Water heater temperatures
Date: 25 Jan 1993 23:46:41 -0800
Organization: Stanford University
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: morrow.stanford.edu

In article <1jn0dtINNims@usenet.pa.dec.com>,
mcnally@wsl.dec.com (Mike McNally) writes:
>I've thought for a while that the widespread practice of
>setting the water heater temperature down to 120 (or even
>lower) is unwise because such temperatures encourage lots
>of microorganisms to flourish.  My preference would be to
>keep the water as high as possible, and then (should a baby
>take up residence in my house) simply keep uninformed tiny
>people *away* from hot water faucets.
>
>Am I alone?

You aren't alone, witness the other postings.  On the other hand, you
obviously aren't a parent, either.

Every parent tries to keep their children away from dangerous things, and to
teach them what things are dangerous.  Anyone who has never *actually tried to
do this* (i.e., actually raise kids) is likely to assert that, with proper
parenting technique, such rule-making is sufficient to protect small children.
Sorry, it just isn't.  Any parent can tell you horror stories about how, when
they turned their back for *just a second*, the kids got into some kind of
awful trouble.  Proper preparation ("baby-proofing" the house) can reduce the
chances of this.  Adjusting your water heater so that every faucet isn't a
death trap is one of the easy things one can do to protect one's children from
harm, so why not do it?

Someone commented, "why not turn down your stove too?"  Well, obviously,
because it then wouldn't cook your food.  Stoves are dangerous to kids,
fortunately they are mostly designed to kids can't turn them on.  And yes, if
you're cooking something you don't dare leave a small child unattended near
the stove *for even one second*.  But do you want to make the bathtub and
every sink into a dangerous thing too?  Should washing hands be as dangerous
as using a power saw?

If 120 degrees results in a hot water shortage, you can install a tempering
valve that mixes water under thermostatic control.  You can set the water
temperature higher, and use the high-temp. water in the dishwasher, and the
tempered water elsewhere.  As for microorganisms, I've never heard of them
growing in a water heater.

Mark C. Lawrence
Systems Programmer     Internet: M.Lawrence@Forsythe.Stanford.edu
Stanford Data Center     Bitnet: M.Lawrence@STANFORD
Stanford, CA 94305-4136     Tel: (415) 723-4976
From: hale@btree.uucp (Bob Hale)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: ground wire
Date: 21 Jan 93 21:42:50 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Brooktree Corporation

In article <1993Jan16.004943.24859@cbnewse.cb.att.com> hemant@cbnewse.cb.att.com (hemant.b.bhatt) writes:
>
>I am installing fan wiring in bedrooms. I pulled 2 wires
>of closet light & two wires for fan through conduits and 
>there is no space for pulling ground wire through the conduit.
>Is there any way I can put ground wire somewhere in attic?
>Thank you.


Did you check the electrical code to see how much you are allowed
to fill the conduit?  It sounds like you are in violation of the
code.

I would suggest replacing the conduit (or EMT, if that's what
you meant) with a larger size.  See if the code will allow the
conduit itself to serve as the safety ground *after* you have
the conduit fill corrected.

Bob Hale                                      ...!ucsd!btree!hale
...!btree!hale@ucsd.edu                       ...!ucsd!btree!hale@uunet.uu.net
From: Dmerrill@bnr.ca (Dana Merrill)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: MIND IN THE GUTTER
Date: 21 Jan 93 21:17:40 GMT
Followup-To: misc.consumers.house
Organization: BNR

In article <1993Jan14.071653.13940@marlin.jcu.edu.au>,
eeltw@marlin.jcu.edu.au (Lloyd Walker) wrote:
> 
> In <1ivakf$bd1@agate.berkeley.edu> cnrdean@toxic (Sam Scalise) writes:
> 
> >Ok.  Leaves in gutters are bad.  What is a good way to keep them
> >out?  If you use screens, you still have to clean out the gutters


> 
> Well this is a common problem in Tropical Aus and I've just replaced the
> back gutter on my place due to a slack previous owner who let them
> rust/corrode out.  Electrolyte corrosion is big here ie if you have a
> zinc alume roof you CAN'T have galvanised iron gutters or they corrode
> (as mine did).  Anyway apart from a lot of the inserts you can put in
> the gutters Monier here in Aus have a "Leafless" gutter system that I
> decided to fit.  It works using surface tension to hold the flowing
> water in as it passes over a gutter cover.  The water is "dragged back
> "into the gutter while leaves etc just drop over the edge sort of
>   ------ 
> 	)
>        / /
> --------/ 
> Well we're into the wet season and it works absolutely brilliantly and
> for a 20% premium is top stuff & I don't need to clean it out again.
> Don't know if it's available in the States or Canada but I thought you
> might be interested.
> 	Lloyd.	
> 		
> /-----------------------------------------------------------------------\
> ( Lloyd Walker,  PhD	       : Internet: L_Walker@trout.jcu.edu.au	)
> ( Faculty of Engineering         :   or      eeltw@marlin.jcu.edu.au    )
> ( James Cook University of North Qld: 				      	)
> ( Douglas		         :			._   /\		)
> ( Queensland                   :  		       /  \_/ *\	)	
> ( AUSTRALIA     4811          :                       (         )     	)
> (  Ph  (077) 81 5410       : Fax +61 77	251 348        \_.--.__/        )
> (---------------------------------------------------          V         )
> (	      AUSTRALIA - Has to be seen to be believed!                )
> \-----------------------------------------------------------------------/

They are sold around here and are called "gutter helmet" or something like
that.  I understand that they work very well.  I don't know their cost, but
I will use them the next time I am buying gutters!  No more cleaning
gutters, no more clogged up, overflowing, freezing up gutters!

dam

==================================================================

Dana Merrill                                Bell Northern Research
DMerrill@BNR.CA                         Research Triangle Park, NC
==================================================================
From: stevem@gold.gvg.tek.com (Steve Miller)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: wiring diagram
Date: 28 Jan 93 18:21:56 GMT
Followup-To: misc.consumers.house
Distribution: na
Organization: Grass Valley Group, Grass Valley, CA

In article <90533@ncratl.AtlantaGA.NCR.COM> hroth@ncratl.AtlantaGA.NCR.COM (Harris Roth) writes:
>Would someone please post or email the wiring diagram for a light(s) controlled
>by three switches.  I know that the circuit requires two - 3 way switches and
>one - 4 way switch.  What I'm not sure of is the wiring and how the internal
>workings of the switches allow any switch to turn the light on or off.
>-- 
>Harris J. Roth, Senior Programmer Analyst    hroth@ncratl.atlantaga.NCR.COM 
>Network Systems                              (404) 623-7749
>Transaction Terminal and Retail Systems Division     
>NCR E&M Atlanta                              

There are a dozen ways to wire a 3-way switch setup.  I did not know this
until I looked in one of those wiring do-it-yourself books.  "Oh no.  So
many choices!"  Without knowing your exact situation, no one will be able
to show you the correct wiring.  Get one of these books.  Or, if it is a
simple 2 switch, 1 light setup, be advised that they include a diagram
of how to wire it with each switch package.  Check it out.

Good luck,
Steve
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Steve Miller, Grass Valley Group, Nevada City, CA. 95959, Mail stop N32B
                 916-478-3059, stevem@gold.gvg.tek.com.
Millers 1st Law of the Conservation of Bugs:  The total number of software
bugs in the universe always remains constant.  Software bugs can neither be
created nor destroyed.  They can only be moved from one software product to
another.  When you fix a bug in your product, it will pop out somewhere else.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: tvervaek@col.hp.com (Tom Vervaeke)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Buying a FSO?
Date: 25 Jan 93 22:45:44 GMT
Article-I.D.: hp-col.1k1qioINNt97
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division
NNTP-Posting-Host: itchub21.cs.itc.hp.com


Hire a real estate attorney to look over any contract before you sigh.
Make sure it's a real estate attorney. Expect to pay $75-100 per hour.
It will be worth it.

Make sure the sales contract allows you to have the home inspected by a
professional inspector, and that the sellers must fix all items.

Get someone to use the MLS service in your area and find out how much
they paid for the house. If it is no longer in the MLS system, go to the
country court house and ask to see the land records.. It will be there
somewhere. Most MLS systems also carry the land records too. Our county
does. You can then tell what they paid, what their mortgage amount is,
etc..

Go with your gut feeling on whether this is the "right" deal.

Good Luck.


( ___ )------------------------------------------------------------( ___ )
 | / | Tom Vervaeke           Email:tom_vervaeke@hp0800.desk.hp.com | \ |
 | / | Technology Specialist  Snail: 1900 Garden of the Gods Rd.    | \ |
 | / | Hewlett Packard Co.           Colorado Springs, CO 80901     | \ |
 | / | Colorado Springs, CO   Voice    : 719-590-2133               | \ |
 | / | USA                    Fax      : 719-590-2117               | \ |
 | / |--------------------------------------------------------------| \ |
 | / | Quote of the week...                                         | \ |
 |___|           Quote deleted do to lack of creativity !!!         |___|
(_____)------------------------------------------------------------(_____)
   ^                                                                  ^
From: laird@pasture.ecn.purdue.edu (Kyler Laird)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Power and current
Keywords: Power and current
Date: 24 Jan 93 03:52:38 GMT
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network

dunne@math.okstate.edu (Ed Dunne) writes:

>If I have an appliance with a heating element rated at 850 watts, how
>much current (in amps) is it going to draw in a standard 110V circuit?

Heating elements are purely resistive - they have no appreciable
inductance or capacitance - so their power factor is considered to
be 1.0.  This means that that current is in-phase with voltage.

So...this is one of the few instances where Watts are equivalent to
Volt-Amps (VA).  Thus, current is found by dividing watts (VA) by
voltage.  In this case, 850VA/110A=7.7A.

No need to worry about start-up or overload surges either...

--kyler
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: abbott@priory.enet.dec.com (Robert Abbott)
Subject: Re: HELP! electrical problem
Organization: TP Performance
Distribution: misc.consumers.house
Date: 26 JAN 93 08:23:42    


In article <BIRCSAK.93Jan25165914@cmpass.mps.mlo.dec.com>, bircsak@cmpass.mps.mlo.dec.com (John Bircsak) writes...
> 
>Yesterday evening we noticed that the lights were periodically
>flickering.  Not on and off, but a single slight dim/return to full
>every once in a while.  Went to check the fuse box, and when I walked
>into the garage immediately noticed a burned/electrical smell (like
>when a fuse blows).  None of the fuses were blown, however.  I looked
>around in the attic for gnawed on wiring but found none.
> 

I once had a similar problem. Turned out the neutral from the
street (the bare steel cable) was broken. This will lead to
voltage swings and some bizzare dimming of lights.

------------------------
Robert K. Abbott
abbott@tps.enet.dec.com          
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: abbott@priory.enet.dec.com (Robert Abbott)
Subject: Re: glass vs. acrylic glazing
Organization: TP Performance
Distribution: na
Date: 21 JAN 93 16:27:44    


In article <MACRAKIS.93Jan20131437@lakatos.osf.org>, macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis) writes...
>In article <1jhfseINNj3v@ua.d.umn.edu> dcole@ua.d.umn.edu (david cole) writes:
> 
>   I want to add some cheap but effective exterior storm windows to some windows
>   on my house.  They are large (about 4 foot by 7 foot high).  I want increased
>   R value, reduced infiltration -- and some isolation from street noise.
> 
>   My thought is to just get some acrylic sheet, cut it to size myself, and
>   stick it to the existing wood frame using 3M doublestick tape (intended for
>   exterior window plastic film, but available separately from the kits).  Then
>   I will drill holes every foot or so around the edge of the acrylic sheet and
>   into the frame, and put in screws.
> 
>   The windows need to be removable -- but not often (this is Duluth!!).
> 
>I think there are several problems with your plan:

Stavros lists some problems that I deleted.

>
>   All this would be less of a problem
>   if the acrylic were attached INSIDE the house.

Exactly. My parents have a room on the end of their house
that has two walls of glass. The windows are a louvered type
with crank and they have a storm that fits flush on the inside.
Even with the storm the room was cool and a mite drafty in
winter.

My father built wood frames around each window (about 4'x5') on
the *inside*. The frames were finished to match the trim. The 
plexiglass was attached to the frame with this two part plastic
sandwich. The bottom part was fixed to the wood frame. The plexi
glass window was layed in then the top part of the plastic snapped
on top to hold it in. This fastener was arranged much like a 
picture frame (with mitered corners) around the plexiglass. It
comes in colors and gives a flat neat appearance.

For my parents, an interior frame was feasible because of 
the type of windows. I don't think it would be so succesful
on traditional double hung sash.
> 
>4) The acrylic will develop microscopic scratches from dust in the air
>   and so on, and will become translucent rather than transparent.

At least on the interior, this hasn't been a problem for my parents.
The plexiglass is in very good condition after 15 years. 

>A big advantage of your proposed system is that it is aesthetically
>much more acceptable than aluminum storm (even black ones).  But I
>just don't think it will work.

Black aluminium storm seems to be the choice for restoration work
around Boston. Aesthetically, I think I'd prefer the old fashioned
frames that you would change twice a year, screens for the summer
and glass for the winter. But these would be pretty inconvenient
and not weathertight at all.

Any other ideas for attractive storm windows?
------------------------
Robert K. Abbott
abbott@tps.enet.dec.com          
From: spikes@hpscit.sc.hp.com (Bill Spikes)
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 16:57:56 GMT
Subject: Re: Home alarm system supplies
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Clara, CA
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house

Please post it here to the net. I know of someone looking for real
alarm system(s)/parts, too.

Thanks,

Bill

(WARNING! Please step away from the house!, BOOOP, BIP, BOP!)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: JB <jbl@mesaadm.cre.nt.com>
Subject: Re: Wood Floors  Using Pine!
X-Xxdate: Mon, 25 Jan 93 11:16:12 GMT
Organization: NT/BNR
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d9
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 16:11:04 GMT

In article <e76qXB1w161w@cdthq.UUCP> Gary Heston, gary@cdthq.UUCP writes:
>>   My question is, is using pine a
>> very wise decision?

I have a 10 inch wide plank southern yellow pine floor with polyurethane
finish.  Can you say "distressed finish" ??  I try to limit the high heel
use on the floor to such extent as I can and will need to resand refinish
at some point in time, but I like the way it looks.  Just understand that
it will look quite different from a hardwood floor.
***************************************************************
************ Laissez le bontemps rouler ****  JB  *************
* no e-mail address, but if you feel inclined: 919/992-2489 * 
***************************************************************
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: disaacs@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (david.e.isaacs)
Subject: HELP! roots in sewer line.
Organization: AT&T
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 19:56:54 GMT

This summer my wife and I had an unpleasant suprise when our sewar line
(from the house to the main) got clogged.  We had a sewer man come out
and route out the line.  He told us that the blockage was caused by 
a tree root and would probably re-occur.  Should this continue I'll need
to replace the line, a trai expensive job.  

The tree belongs to the Boro and they refuse to have it taken down.  Even
if I did take it down I've been told the roots continue to grow for 5 year.
The only thing I've been able to do is buy some ROEBIC root killer 
from  the home depot.  The directions say once a year is enough, but 
considering the root killer cost $8 and a new sewer line will run
about $3500 I'm thinking of dumping it in twice a year.

Does anyone have any experience with this stuff?  Any ohter ideas on
extending the life of my sewer line.

Mucho Appreciado!

David Isaacs			If I said it, why blame anyone else?
Ok.... So I didn't major 
in English.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: dhepner@cup.hp.com (Dan Hepner)
Subject: Re: Water leaking from TOP of water heater
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 03:15:30 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Hewlett-Packard
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8.2]

From: bobw@procase.com (Bob Weissman)

>My 40g natural gas water heater has suddenly developed a very
>small leak from its top.

>Anyone out there have an idea what this is and how to fix it?
>Or do I have to bite the bullet and call a plumber?
>
>Thanks!

Leaky hot water heaters aren't usually considered "fixable", at least
in part because they're not that expensive nor that difficult to 
install, and because they need periodic replacement anyway.  If
you do it yourself and it's a gas heater, make sure that if it
isn't already done, you replace the stiff gas connection with
a flexible one.  A plumber would do that as a matter of course.

Dan Hepner
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: bobk@sequent.com (Bob Krull)
Subject: Re: HELP! electrical problem
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems Inc.
Distribution: misc.consumers.house
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 93 21:34:16 GMT

In article <1993Jan26.132203.22930@ryn.mro4.dec.com> abbott@priory.enet.dec.com (Robert Abbott) writes:
>
>I once had a similar problem. Turned out the neutral from the
>street (the bare steel cable) was broken. This will lead to
>voltage swings and some bizzare dimming of lights.
>

Neutral from the street!!??  Where do you live that the power company runs
a neutral line?  The only "bare steel cable" I am familiar with is purely
for mechanical strength.

-Bob Krull
bobk@sequent.com