HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: michele@garnet.berkeley.edu (Michele Tomkin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
Subject: Re:Bead Sources in NE
Date: 6 Jan 1993 18:06:21 GMT
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: garnet.berkeley.edu

If you're looking for a listing of bead stores etc, you might
want to check out this book:

	The Bead Directory
	Linda Benmour
	P.O. Box 10103
	Oakland, CA 94610

It's billed as "Your Single Source For Everything You Need To Bead,
Nationwide Mail Order & Traveler's Shopping Guide".

It doesn't list every bead store in the U.S. but it does list a
lot of bead stores by state, including the address, hours,
wholesale/retail/mail order, specialty, and it often includes a
description of the store and its merchandise.  It also includes
Bead Societies, Associations & Organizations, Bead Bazaars,
Conferences, Museums, Shows, Magazines, Classes and Books.

I've found it useful during my travels in California, Oregon,
and Florida, although I also always look in the local Yellow
Pages.  I bought the The Bead Directory in a local bead store
for $11.00 and I've found it worth the price.  I believe you can
also order it from the address above.

Another good source for bead stores, particularly by mail order,
is Ornament magazine.

Regards, Michele Tomkin
-- 
Michele Tomkin                              (415)643-6676
Workstation Software Support Group          michele@garnet.Berkeley.EDU
225 Evans Hall 	                            ucbvax!jade!garnet!michele
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.textiles,alt.sewing
From: lsc@ssd.intel.com (Linda Cline)
Subject: Looking for beadwork software...
Organization: Supercomputer Systems Divison, Intel Corp.
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 19:02:49 GMT

	I'm looking for software to assist in designing beadwork 
graphs, similar to cross-stitch software.  Cross-stitch software 
can be used for loomed beadwork, but I'd like to find something
that works with other stitches, such as peyote and brick stitch,
as well.  Does anyone know of anything suitable for DOS-based
machines with VGA?  

	thanks in advance for any suggestions,
	linda

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
"Now, here, you see, it takes all the running you can do, to keep in
the same place.  If you want to get somewhere else, you must run at
least twice as fast as that!"	
                                        Lewis Carroll
Linda Cline                             Through the Looking Glass
Intel Supercomputer Systems Division 
email: lsc@ssd.intel.com
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
From: bozek@ecs.umass.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
Subject: bubbles in candels
Date: 8 Jan 93 12:49:11 GMT

We have been making pyramids and tetrahedrals using sheet
metal molds. they are comming out well but they have lots
of bubbles. My best guess is that the wax has impurities
in it?
Wax temperature could be a problem (no themometer) but
even letting the wax heat up for a Long time still
results in bubbles.

Does anyone know how to make candels with out bubbles?

thanks
David 

bozek@umaecs.edu
From: michele@garnet.berkeley.edu (Michele Tomkin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
Subject: Snowglobes
Date: 6 Jan 1993 00:26:11 GMT
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: garnet.berkeley.edu

Hi,

It's great to know that this newsgroup exists.  For months I've
been searching for (empty) glass snowglobes so that I can make
my own.  I've managed to find ones that are about 4.5 inches in
diameter, but I would really like to find spherical snowglobes
that have a smaller diameter, say 2.5 - 3.5 inches.

Does anyone know of a supplier?

Thanks alot,

Regards, Michele Tomkin
-- 
Michele Tomkin                              (415)643-6676
Workstation Software Support Group          michele@garnet.Berkeley.EDU
225 Evans Hall 	                            ucbvax!jade!garnet!michele
From: martini@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (ok)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
Subject: sealing wax..
Date: 6 Jan 93 20:49:19 GMT
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin, Austin TX

so, does anyone out there have a recipe for sealing wax?  the stuff that I've 
found in stores is 5$ a stick, and that's too much, eh?

Perhaps something with beeswax, or crayons melted into some wax base? 
preferably something that i could color somehow, and which would also
be sturdy enough to go through the mail (on envelopes that are glued
normally, but seals that arrive intact!).

thanks,
sheilagh
(oh, any suggestions/warnings for generic wicks or sealing wax-stick wicks?)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
From: lienhart@fc.hp.com (Bob Lienhart)
Subject: Pre-cut felt source needed
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 18:43:30 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Fort Collins Site
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

I am in need of an in-expensive source for pre-cut felt with a
sticky backing.  The final product requires 10-inch lengths
of 3/16-inch wide and 1/4-inch thick felt, but any length,
including rolls, would be OK.  The width and thichness dimensions
are critical.  My present source is a music instrument mail order
firm charging $2.10 per 10" piece.  It seems that this price could
easily be improved upon.

Also are there any ideas about what glues would be appropriate
for bonding felt to aluminum.  The bond must be robust, but must
also allow for felt replacement.  Knowledge of appropriate glues
would reduce my requirement for sticy-backing on the required felt.

Bob Lienhart
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
From: sharon@phoneme.shs.uiuc.edu (Sharon Morrison)
Subject: source for fiberglass wicks?
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 20:10:47 GMT

Hi, 
I hope this is not a FAQ.
I am looking for a (mailorder) source for relatively thin fiberglass  
wicking for use in a spout-type oil lamp (the spout is made of 1/8" copper  
tubing).  I need enough wick for 9 small oil lamps.

So far I have only found regular candle wick of the correct size and  
really thick fiberglass for kerosene lamps.

Thanks for your help!

Sharon Morrison
From: nola@cats.ucsc.edu (Nola Van Vugt)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
Subject: Soapmaking Advice Needed
Date: 10 Jan 1993 20:08:17 GMT
Organization: University of California; Santa Cruz
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: am.ucsc.edu


I'm posting this for my sister who doesn't have net access (but who
does have a beautiful herb farm in central Minnesota!)  She's been
trying to make herbal soaps to sell in the farm's retail store but
they keep coming out crumbly and/or grainy.  While they're certainly
usable they're not sellable.  She's using a coconut oil base and the
recipes from the Sunfeather Soap Company.  
I'd really appreciate any advice from experienced soapmakers because
she keeps sending me all the stuff that doesn't turn out and I happen
to know she still has 10 gallons of coconut oil to use up and I'm not
sure how much more soap my apartment can hold! 
nvv
 
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
From: awoods@mitre.org (Ann Woods)
Subject: Re: Snowglobes
Organization: The MITRE Corporation
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 19:03:01 GMT

I am looking for snowglobes too, but filled ones.  Last year I found tiny 
Christmas-themed snowglobes (about 2 and a half inches tall) at a local 
store for well under a dollar.  The only ones I found recently were about 
$10 each!

Any info on Christmas craft catalogs is also welcome.

Thanks.


************************************
Ann J. Woods
The MITRE Corporation
E-mail:  awoods@mitre.org
************************************
From: SWINGRL@CONRAD.APPSTATE.EDU (Randy Swing)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
Subject: RE: fiberglass wicks
Date: 11 Jan 1993 04:11:02 GMT
Organization: APPALACHIAN STATE UNIVERSITY
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: conrad.appstate.edu
X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.24

Aftosa supply has fiberglass wicks.

1-800-231-0397

The trade name is GLASWIK.  It comes in 1/8", 3/16" and 1/4".  The price is
$.37 to $.65 per foot for small orders of 1-49 feet.  They also have glass wick
holders.

I've ordered votive candles from this company for years and have always had
great service.  Otherwise, I'm not connected to this company.
From: david@talgras.UUCP (David Hoopes)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
Subject: Re: Snowglobes
Date: 6 Jan 93 14:37:31 GMT
Reply-To: david@talgras.UUCP (David Hoopes)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Tallgrass Technologies Inc.

In article <1id8v3INNd9a@agate.berkeley.edu> michele@garnet.berkeley.edu (Michele Tomkin) writes:
>Hi,
>
 [ Stuff Deleted ]
>diameter, but I would really like to find spherical snowglobes
>

Ok, I give up.  What's a snowglobe?





-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------
David Hoopes                              Tallgrass Technologies Inc. 
david@tallgrass.COM                       11100 W 82nd St.          
Voice: (913) 492-6002 x323                Lenexa, Ks  66214
From: vida@crsa.bu.edu (Vida Jakabhazy)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
Subject: Pre-cut tuille source needed
Date: 12 Jan 93 22:07:34 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Boston University Center for Remote Sensing


I was wondering if anyone might know from where I could order
pre-cut tuille for a veil I'm making.  Any help would be most 
appreciated!

Vida Jakabhazy
vida@crsa.bu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
From: redekop@gaul.csd.uwo.ca (Tzoq Mrekazh)
Subject: Marbeling
Organization: Welsh Farm
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 14:51:02 GMT

 A friend and I are working on paper and fabric marbeling, but we've run
into problems finding some of the ingredients -- specifically, carageenan
and methyl celulose.  The only place we've found that stocks them is a
pharmacy which is charging about $35 - $50 CDN for 100g of the stuff.  We
*have* found a place that stocks Irish moss to use instead of carageenan,
but other sources of methyl celulose still elude us.

 Does anyone out there know where one might find those things easily and
cheaply in Canada?  Specifically, Ontario?

 Please email...  I don't follow this group...


-- 
    o-  Tzoq    "I am a good speller, I am -- C-A-T, dog...           ^ ^
 O   o- tzoq@uwo.ca                           B-A-T, Rhode Island..." `v'
    o-  redekop@obelix.gaul.csd.uwo.ca                 -- Junyer Bear  ^  
= Bernoulli would have been content to die, had he but known such a^2 cos 2phi =
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc,rec.photo
From: casey@well.sf.ca.us (Kathleen Creighton)
Subject: Re: X-Large photo folders / organizers
Organization: Whole Earth 'Lectronic Link
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 18:58:02 GMT


Waxers.  Which reminds me that some company (I think it's 3M) now makes
a "sticky" in an applicator which allows you to move things around.  Should
be able to find it in an office supply or art supply store.
From: cdfk@otter.hpl.hp.com (Caroline Knight)
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 11:57:34 GMT
Subject: Making felt
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories, Bristol, UK.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc


 I've just tried making felt. Has anyone else out there done this?

 For Christmas I made lots of felt animals, I also got a book on making
 hats which gave a method for making felt. Put the two of these together
 and I wanted to make my own felt to make stipey and spotted animals!

 My first difficulty was finding unspun wool. I ended up buying some
 expensive stuff from a craft shop but think I might be able to get
 wool for spinners mail order.

 Then came the actual process. The description I was following said to
 use a beach mat - I don't have one so I thought I'd do my first sample
 using a sushi mat - this was rather small! Now my sister's given me an
 old bamboo blind which is ridiculuously large but I'll try it anyway!

 The method given was:

 1. Lay out a towel
 2. Put the beach mat on top
 3. Create a layer of wool using blobs 
 4. Add the other colours on top to make the surface pattern
 5. Damp all down with water to which a generous squeeze of washing
    up liquid has been added. 
 6. Roll the beach mat and wrap the towel round
 7. Roll backwards and forwards for 3 mins - its friction not pressure 
    that causes the felting
 8. Unwind. Move felt round 90 degreess and do it again
 9. Complete 4 bouts of this rolling then turn the felt over and
    roll for longer, about 5 mins.
10. Remove felt - its ready if the fibres do not move from the surface
    though the edge may be fragile.
11. Dip into the water and detergent mixture and stretch over mould
    (this is if you want to make a hat - I flattened mine).

I probably didn't roll for quite long enough but the couple of pieces
I did convince me that I will be able to get the wool I bought to work.
I am really looking forward to making bigger pieces soon!

Anyone have any advice?

Caroline


-----------------------------------------------------------------
Caroline Knight   HPLabs Filton Rd Stoke Gifford Bristol BS12 6QZ

FAX: 0272 228796                         cdfk%hplb.uucp@ukc.ac.uk
Tel: 0272 228040                            cdfk@hplb.lb.hp.co.uk
Switchboard: 0272 799910                     cdfk@hplb.hpl.hp.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------


Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
From: cordova@univrs.rdd.lmsc.lockheed.com (Cordova)
Subject: star, sun, and/or moon sliver molds
Followup-To: rec.crafts.misc
Organization: Lockheed Missiles & Space Co.
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 93 23:09:02 GMT

Hi, I'm trying to find a star, a sun and sliver of the moon molds for
a handmade paper project I have planned. I've called several hobby,
ceramic,
and candle making supply companies in the south San Francisco bay area.
Does anyone have an idea of where I might find such things? I'm looking for
molds that are less than a foot in diameter. So far I've only found a
man-in-the-moon cake mold at a local kitchen supply place.

Thank you for your help.
Sherry
Organization: University of Illinois at Chicago
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 19:29:47 CST
From: Laura Boutwell <U58100@uicvm.uic.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
Subject: CERAMICS DECALS?

I've seen a process for applying what looks to me to be a Xerox transfer
to a piece *before* it is glazed, such that you can get a fairly detailed
image under transparent glaze with a lot of fiedelity...does anyone know
what this is and how to do it?
Thanks, Laura Bootsy Boutwell
U58100@UICVM.BITNET
u58100@UICVM.BITNE

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
From: eroderic@vlin1.vsla.edu (Elizabeth Roderick)
Subject: Cross-stitch cottage industry
Organization: Virginia State Library
Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1993 02:05:01 GMT

I am looking for information for a friend who is interested in
working for an established individual/company who markets
cross-stitch products either through retail or craft shows.
She could work out of her home.  Any ideas?  Thanks.  Elizabeth
(eroderic@leo.vsla.edu)

Please respond via private email in addition to replying to
the list, if possible.
From: michele@garnet.berkeley.edu (Michele Tomkin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
Subject: Re: Snowglobes
Date: 8 Jan 1993 19:10:58 GMT
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: garnet.berkeley.edu


My definition of a snowglobe is a spherical glass container that
sits on a wooden base.  It's usually filled with a liquid and
some type of (fake) snow flakes and figurines and stuff.  When
you pick it up and shake it the snow flakes fill the globe and
cover up the figurines until it falls back down.  They also go
by the name snowbubbles and they're often used as paperweights.

Regards, Michele Tomkin
-- 
Michele Tomkin                              (415)643-6676
Workstation Software Support Group          michele@garnet.Berkeley.EDU
225 Evans Hall 	                            ucbvax!jade!garnet!michele
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc,rec.photo
From: "angela allen" <angie@cs.indiana.edu>
Subject: Re: X-Large photo folders / organizers
Organization: Computer Science, Indiana University
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 11:03:35 -0500

veatch@cs.toronto.edu ("Tim Veatch") writes:

>I've been looking out for some large photo folders
>for putting my photos in.  I don't want the the photo sheets that
>have the pockets for the various sizes of pictures.
>I want to be able to arrange the pictures and other misc stuff
>however I like.  I think they call these sheets "magnetic" sheets,
>for whatever reason, I don't know.  (They have a sticky surface
>to attach the picture to and a clear plastic that goes on top)

Newspapers that still use manual layout put the articles, photos, etc.
on layout sheets using something like this. They have a machine that
will put the diagonal stripes of not-too-sticky glue directly on the
back of the photos, etc. (This process is called, oddly enough,
"pasteup".) If you don't want to put the glue directly on your
pictures, the machine may be able to handle posterboard or some other
backing board. 

I suggest that you call around to your local high schools and find out
who is in charge of the school newspaper. See if they have one of
these machines that you can rent, or find out whose they use. If this
pans out, keep your eye out for cheapie newsletters around town. I bet
the publishers of coupon books, larger club newsletters, or small
academic journals use these machines. You may also see if there is a
publishing firm in town that uses pasteups.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
From: kornya@newton.cs.jhu.edu (Elizabeth Kornya)
Subject: Stained Glass
Keywords: stained glass
Organization: Johns Hopkins Computer Science Department, Baltimore, MD
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 18:53:57 GMT


I am interested in trying to make stained glass, or simply coloring 
sheets of glass.  Is there anyone who has had experience doing this
and know what I need and how to do it?  Please E-mail back to me, as
I rarely get the chance to read mail anymore.  

Thanks in advance...

--Liz

kornya@server.cs.jhu.edu
From: arthur@sgi.com (Arthur Evans)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Low temperatures
Date: 11 Jan 93 19:14:37 GMT
Reply-To: arthur@chiba (Arthur Evans)
Distribution: na
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc.

In article <1993Jan8.205331.20574@spectra.com> gurley@spectra.com (Jim Gurley) writes:
>I've got a problem.  My fermentor is still perking away (after quite a bit
>longer than I planned).  I'm leaving on a business trip (one week) in a few
>days, and the house temperature will drop to the 40s when I leave (and am
>no longer putting wood in the stove).

One thing to consider here is that when your beer cools down, the 
co2 in the headspace will contract, creating a vaccum and sucking
the water from your airlock into your beer.  To avoid this, you 
might want to replace the airlock with a cap of some sort (if it's
a screw-on type, don't tighten it all the way) and cool the beer
down to the temperature you expect the house to reach (stick it in
the fridge, or something).  Before you leave, replace the airlock
and hope for the best.

I suspect the yeast will survive a week at 40 degrees.  Many people
collect yeast from the bottom of their fermenters and store it in
the fridge for several weeks before repitching into another batch.
I've stored ale yeast collected this way for well over a month 
at refrigerator temperatures (around 40), and the yeast remained 
extremely vigorous.

After you warm the beer back up, you may want to shake the fermeter 
around a bit, to get some yeast back into suspension.

good luck,
	arthur
From: blyler@tecsun1.tec.army.mil (Todd Blyler)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: propane burners
Summary: how many BTU's?
Keywords: propane
Date: 8 Jan 93 17:18:43 GMT
Organization: U.S. Army Topographic Engineering Center, Ft. Belvoir, VA.



	I am considering buying a propane burner for boiling etc. My
question is how many BTU's do I want? I can get 135,000 or 200,000 for
$65 and $43 respectively. I thought the 200 was a better deal but is
it going to be difficult to control?





thanks,

Todd Blyler
U.S. Army Topographic Engineering Center
ATTN: CETEC-GL-AT
2592 Leaf Road
Ft. Belvoir, VA 22060-5546

blyler@tec.army.mil
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: HAK@oregon.uoregon.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Trisodiumphosphate (TSP)
Date: 12 Jan 93 00:27:47 GMT
Article-I.D.: fp1-cc-2.HAK-110193161757
Followup-To: rec.crafts.brewing
Distribution: world
Organization: univ. of oregon
NNTP-Posting-Host: fp1-cc-21.uoregon.edu

I would like to know more about Trisodium Phosphate. I have heard about its
use in sanitizing, but I would like to know more about it before I switch
from cheap and trusty, albeit smelly bleach. 

Does it leave a harmful residue if not rinsed vigorously? 
If it is better than bleach, is it worth paying more for?
Is this the same TSP that painters use (ie. can I buy the stuff at the
hardware store?) 
Is there something better than either of these chemicals for sanitizing
fementers and bottles, etc?

Any help is appreciated.

Hans Kuhn
From: brewer@meltdown.chi.il.us (Mike Wilson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Cranberry Beer???
Date: 4 Jan 93 10:48:16 CST
Organization: The Meltdown - A Team Star BBS

I made a cherry wheat beer over the summer using cherry juice.  I added the
juice to the secondary.  It was easy.  The taste is pretty good, but not
perfect and my beer suffers from a severe case of pectin haze.  However, and
opaque mug and...

Mike Wilson
brewer@meltdown.chi.il.us
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: s3400127@nickel.laurentian.ca
Subject: Rickard's Red anyone?
Organization: Laurentian University
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 13:11:43 GMT

Hello fellow brewmeisters,
    I am just new to homebrewing and my first batch is about 5 days away from 
bottling.  Probably my question will be answered by people from Southern 
Ontario but who knows.  When I was going to school at Western (London) the
bars in the city served a great draft beer made by the company Brick (I believe)
The name as far as I can remember was Rickard's Red (?).  I was young and 
unexperienced in the beer tasting art back then so I couldn't offer any advice
on how the beer reacted to my palate.  Anyway, would anyone know of a recipe
that would taste similar to that draft.

Thanks in advance from a rookie homebrewer,
Jason


Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: raismana@ucunix.san.uc.edu (Neal A Raisman)
Subject: Help on a stout bottling time
Organization: University of Cincinnati
Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1993 23:56:54 GMT

  I could use some help please on a stout I am making.  I mixed up a batch
  of 9 lbs. American of dark unhopped extract in a recipe calling for 6 lbs.
  to change the taste etc.  Added hops and various barleys to flavor.  
  Starting sq was 1.061.  It has fermented for two weeks.  Rapid at first,
BAbut now rather slow, if at all.  SQ was measuerd at 1.023 tonight.  It is 
  sitting safely at 70 degrees.  My question is, should I think it is a
  stuck batch since it seems to have stopped fermenting or should I believe it
  has fermented as far as it will?  If stuck, any recommedation on what to use
  to unstick it?

D
D
D
D
  rather slow, if any now.  SQ is now 1.023.  It is sitting at 760 degrees.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: garnett@refuge.Colorado.EDU (Santiago de la Paz)
Subject: Re: dark beer
Organization: Cogwheel Incorporated, Boulder
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 20:05:20 GMT

goddard@NeXTwork.Rose-Hulman.Edu (Bart E. Goddard) writes:
>
>All true beer is dark.
>So called "light beer" is actually a mixture of horsepiss and isopropyl
>alchocol.  Many people don't know this, so you can expect them to deny this  
>long-suppressed fact. :-)

Hey!  Stop that!

I can make you a fine, full-bodied lager from a few pounds of 6-row, a
touch of 10L crystal, a pound of rice and certain other fiendish elements
(which are, by the way, unrelated either chemically or logically to
horsepiss) that ends up a light golden-blonde but whacks your pleasure
centers in the face.  Looks like horsepiss, pours like horsepiss, feels
like horsepiss- but brother, it ain't horsepiss!

Of course, I only brew this stuff for the Roommate-Who-Only-Drinks-Miller,
but that's beside the point.

~james

  James Garnett, Network Engineer                               (303) 444-1338
  garnett@cogwheel.com

  Cogwheel Incorporated, Boulder  ***  Producers of low-cost dialup IP routers
                        Boulder-Denver/Hong Kong
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing