HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: doug@shako.Colorado.EDU (Doug McKnight)
Subject: Un-tightenable stem. Help prevent head butts.
Reply-To: doug@shako.Colorado.EDU (Doug McKnight)
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 20:25:06 GMT

I bought my Fiancee a Girvin Flex-stem for her MTB as a present.
She fitted it, and I gave the expander bolt an extra tighten
since I have stronger hands.

After about half a mile on a reasonably rough trail she crashed on a rocky
drop-off and head-butted a tree! Fortunately there was no lasting damage to
her, the bike or the tree. Nice present....

On examination it appeared that the stem was able to turn in the steerer tube
far too easily. 

Tightening it _really_ hard didn't help. 
Swapping the expander with two others didn't help.
De-greasing the stem and greasing the sloping sliding surfaces on the
stem didn't help.

It is the same size as the standard stem, it seems to have the same kind
of expander. I've tightened stems on lots and lots of bikes and never had
this problem. Help! Any suggestions welcome.

Douglas
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tlt38517@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Terry Thiel)
Subject: Re: Comments on Bridgestone?
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1992 01:12:20 GMT
Keywords: help touring buy

>While looking for bargains in the model-year 
>changeover, a Bridgestone RB-T at a local shop caught my 
>eye.1) I'm interested in others' experience with Bridgestone. 
>Are they as straightforward and honest as their catalog 
>implies? Any Bridgestone owners out there?
Yes they are. I think Bridgestone makes the best thought out bikes in their 
price range, and even beyond their price range. I have an RB-1 road bike and an 
MB-3 mountin bike and couldn't be happier. Both have superb geometry and an 
excellent choice of equipment as well as a classic look.
>what's a reasonable year-end price for the bike?
I have no idea.  I don't know what the original price on the RB-T is.
>The shop also has a '91 Cannondale (630 I think) 
>touring bike marked down to $640. How good is that? I'm not 
>really excited about aluminum for bike frames, but maybe 
>aluminum with a guarantee is better than steel without one?
I like Cannondales but my last one had a cracked frame and I never felt the 
same 
about them again.  Especially since I know so many other people whohad the same 
problem.  What do you mean "steel without one"?  The Bridgestone has a warranty
just like the Cannondale.
>I'm also considered a Trek 1100. Any comments Trek v 
>Cannondale v Bridgestone?
I don't like Treks because they tend to have lousy geometry and poor parts 
selection and sizing.  Cannondales not too good on this either.  For example
a 58 cm road bike has a 170mm crank and 90mm stem, both are far too short.
Treks also seem very generic to me.  I had a 2500 road bike and liked its
shock absorbing capabilities (carbon fiber) but could never get used to the 
geometry.  Finally nothing I have said will be of any use to you until you ride 
these bikes and follow your gut.  Even then anything I or others say is little 
more than opinion.  I think you would be quite happy with an RB-T and would 
feel like you made an excellent purchase but in the end only you can decide.
-Terry
From: hallstro@solan.unit.no (Lars Hallstr|m Eriksen)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Tire cuts: When is too bad?
Date: 7 Sep 92 17:18:12 GMT
Organization: Norwegian Institue of Technology

In article <1992Sep7.044450.27631@shearson.com>, mjohnsto@jenny.shearson.com (Mike Johnston) writes:
 > 
 > With about 100 miles on a pair of brand new Michelin Super Comp HD's
 > I got a nasty flat the other day that left a battle scar on my rear
 > tire. The cut is about 1/3" long and runs across the business side of
 > the tire perpendicular to the direction of travel. It went all the way
 > through, cleanly.
 > 
 > I keep my tires at 110psi. Should I worry about a blowout with this tire?
 > Am I being a worry wart? 

I would definitely be worried about that one, though if that's an MTB tire,
maybe it'll make it, I don't have much experience with MTBs.  You may try to
stick a piece of a car patch (you don't want a whole patch!) on the inside of the
tire, but the car patch may get partly squeezed out and gradually worn down,
especially if your tire is thin and flexible. 

--
Lars Hallstroem Eriksen                    | E-mail:     hallstro@solan.unit.no
Student of Mechanical Engineering          | Paper mail: Stud.post 44
Norwegian Institute of Technology (NTH),   |             N-7034 Trondheim-NTH
University of Trondheim (UNIT)             |             NORWAY
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: larson@minerva.sws.uiuc.edu (Bob Larson)
Subject: Cateye Vectra -- setting clock
Summary: How do you set the thing?
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 04:45:13 GMT
Keywords: cateye bike clock

I just resumed riding after a couple of years off.  I can't remember
how to set the clock on my Cateye Vectra, or to reset the other functions.

Can anyone offer any help?

Thanks

-----------------------
Bob Larson
blarson@uiuc.edu

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: alexande@genghis.borland.com (Mark Alexander)
Subject: Re: Helmets?
Originator: alexande@genghis.borland.com
Organization: Borland International
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 20:54:38 GMT


I have crashed twice in the last twelve years, and in both cases my
helmets saved me from serious injury (if you don't count concussions
and broken collarbones as "serious").

The last crash was especially hard on my head (and my rear derailleur :-).
I was knocked unconcious for about 10 minutes, and the concussion was
bad enough that the docs decided to do a brain scan.  I have no doubt
that the helmet saved me from devasatingly serious brain damage.

A coworker of mine spent 6 months in a hospital after crashing his
bicycle without helmet protection through the windshield of a van.
This would have been a serious accident in any case, but I'm sure he
would have been saved a lot of the brain damage and recovery time had
he been wearing a helmet.

I'm thankful I never had a bad crash in my junior racing years, before
decent helmets were available.  And I'm still waiting for bicycle
airbags to be introduced :-)
From: hallstro@solan.unit.no (Lars Hallstr|m Eriksen)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: bike suspension news?
Date: 7 Sep 92 16:35:55 GMT
Organization: Norwegian Institue of Technology


In article <1992Sep3.173238.1545@mnemosyne.cs.du.edu>, scweddel@nyx.cs.du.edu (scott weddel) writes:
> 
> What's the state of the art in bike suspensions?  I've heard a little about
> the existence, but haven't found many people to know it exists.
> What's available and what are the going rates?
> 
> Scott Weddel   strider   Apple /// aficionado   eeidscw@engvms.unl.edu
>     Sterling Rider       ^^^ Amiga too !  ^^^   UNLincoln Nebraska USA
> 

I've seen them in a shop I happened to drop by in Ithaca, NY (that's where
Cornell University is located).  I don't remember the name of the shop.  The shop
had several models, unforunately hanging from the ceiling, so it was too much
trouble to test them (I can't afford a new bike right now).  They were all MTBs. 
The suspension was in principle similar to that of a motorbike, but the rear
wheel had only one spring and shock absorber. 

---
Lars Hallstroem Eriksen                    | E-mail:     hallstro@solan.unit.no
Student of Mechanical Engineering          | Paper mail: Stud.post 44
Norwegian Institute of Technology (NTH),   |             N-7034 Trondheim-NTH
University of Trondheim (UNIT)             |             NORWAY
From: sutton@lamar.ColoState.EDU (Rich Sutton)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Opinions needed on Cannondale SR400
Date: 8 Sep 92 17:25:48 GMT
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.marketplace
Organization: Colorado State University, Fort Collins, CO  80523

In article <92251.203044FZK@psuvm.psu.edu> FZK@psuvm.psu.edu writes:
>I'd like opinions from anyone who has owned the SR400 or who has
>has raced on Cannondale bikes.  Thanks.
>
>                                    Joe




followups directed to rec.bicycles.marketplace



rec.bicycles.marketplace: Bicycles, components, ancillary equipment and
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
services wanted or for sale, reviews of such things, places to buy
                             ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
them, and evaluations of these sources.  Not for discussion of general
engineering, maintenance, or repair -- see rec.bicycles.tech.




rec.bicycles.tech: Techniques of engineering, construction, maintenance
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
and repair of bicycles and ancillary equipment.  Not for products or
services offered or wanted -- see rec.bicycles.marketplace.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: brian@wucs1.wustl.edu (Brian)
Subject: Re: Dent in Top Tube
Reply-To: brian@wucs1.wustl.edu (Brian)
Organization: Washington University, School of Engineering, St. Louis MO
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 15:33:07 GMT

In article <Bu0LoE.1KM.2@cs.cmu.edu> stork+@cs.cmu.edu (David Zabowski)  
writes:
> 
> Folks,
> 
> I recently managed to put a minor dent in my top tube.  What I was
> wondering is if this is cause for concern and whether or not I should
> talk to a frame builder about getting a new tube put in?  The frame is
> a Reynolds 531 Double Butted and the dent is rather minor.
> Unfortunately, the dent is probably in the thin walled part of the
> tube.  The bike is definitely a road only bike so it doesn't have to
> deal with the rigors of off road riding.  So, what do you folks think?
> Any relevant information will be greatly appreciated.
> 

I've had a dent in my mountain bike top tube for about 7 months now, with  
no problems.  I've also had a dent (or I guess a flat spot) on my rear  
rim, also with no problems, except for a very un-true rim.  Last night I  
bashed the rim back into shape (mostly) with an old crank arm (I have no  
hammer), and trued it up.  Hopefully that will lhold up for another few  
months.

brian
From: camlau@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (Joseph T.Y. Lau)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: teeth on gears
Date: 8 Sep 92 20:50:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <1992Sep8.193014.29347@dartvax.dartmouth.edu>, boz@coos.dartmouth.edu (John Boswell) writes...
>Hi,
>        I have a question about the teeth on normal freewheels and rear-
>wheels.  Last night after I washed the mud off my ~2 mo. old Trek 700 I
>lubricated the chain/ etc. for the first time (I know I should be doing
>that more often- but better late than never :).  I noticed that some
>of the teeth look like they have been worn down; they aren't as pointed
>as others on the gear........

The teeth on Shimano rear cassettes are funny shaped.  There are pointy
ones, flat ones, notches, bevels, etc.  They are meant to assist the
chain in hopping from one cog to another while shifting.  The new
suntour powerflo cassettes are somewhat that way as well.  In short, they're
meant to be that way and probably not because of misuse. If they are 
indeed worn, I would imagine you would notice a dramatic loss of shifting
performance.

>since I think 2 months is a short time for gears to wear down :}.....

It is a short time.  IMHO they are not worn down, they are meant to
be that way.  If you are concerned, take the bike back to the dealer and
ask him to look at it.
From: seanodon@gn.ecn.purdue.edu (Aragorn)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Tire cuts: When is too bad?
Keywords: Tire cuts, repairs
Date: 8 Sep 92 17:00:46 GMT
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network

In article <1992Sep7.044450.27631@shearson.com> mjohnsto@jenny.shearson.com (Mike Johnston) writes:
>
>With about 100 miles on a pair of brand new Michelin Super Comp HD's
>I got a nasty flat the other day that left a battle scar on my rear
>tire. The cut is about 1/3" long and runs across the business side of
>the tire perpendicular to the direction of travel. It went all the way
>through, cleanly.
>
>I keep my tires at 110psi. Should I worry about a blowout with this tire?
>Am I being a worry wart? 
>
>MJ

I had a similar event happen to me.  At the finish of one ride I ran
over a piece of glass and put a 0.25" gash in my (relatively new) front
tire.  To reinforce that section of tire, because the cut was all the
way through, I cut up the old tube and used part of it as a patch.  I
cut a one inch square section, positioned it over the cut and used
tubular glue to hold it in place.  I've put on over 2000 mi on that tire
since then and haven't had any problems from the gash.

Aragorn
-- 
***seanodon@ecn.purdue.edu***********************************************
*  Man-in-Black: "You mean you'll put down your rock and I'll put 	*
*		  down my sword, and we'll try to kill each other 	*
*		  like civilized people."	_The Princess Bride_	*
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: doug@shako.Colorado.EDU (Doug McKnight)
Subject: Re: Great MTB's MB-0/1
Reply-To: doug@shako.Colorado.EDU (Doug McKnight)
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 16:00:07 GMT

My 1992 MB-1 has a Richey Logic crank. 
You forgot to mention the butted spokes (ooooooooooooohh).

Is it the 1993 bike that you are discussing?

Douglas 

ps I LIKE IT.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: drt@brolga.cc.uq.oz.au (David Taylor)
Subject: Re: How good are frame repairs?
Organization: Prentice Centre, University of Queensland
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1992 02:48:48 GMT

tomk@netcom.com (Thomas H. Kunich) writes:

>In article <drt.716548287@brolga> drt@brolga.cc.uq.oz.au (David Taylor) writes:
>>Can good frame builders repair frames back to their original condition?
>>Or will it never be the same?

>A good frame builder can rebuild a frame perfectly.
>But this isn't the question.

Yes it is, and thank you for the answer.

The estimate for repairs is ~$150 and looks to be the best option at
this stage. No new tubes, just sqeezed back into shape. I am a bit
worried that the strength of the frame will be compromised and/or
it will never be "perfectly" aligned. That's all.
From: shiba@riffnique.csd.sgi.com (Richard Shiba)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: hyperglide cassette cogs positions in the cluster
Date: 10 Sep 92 23:15:02 GMT
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc.  Mountain View, CA

In <1992Sep9.223239.5336@hpcvusn.cv.hp.com> harry@cv.hp.com (Harry Phinney) writes:
>: For example can I move the 21
>: from the 8th position to 7th position and replace a 23 in the 8th position?
>: Also are 7sp hyperglde cogs usable in a 8sp cassette?

>In computer industry terms, these configurations are probably
>functional, but unsupported. 

	Great analogy.  This is exactly how it was explained
	to me by Wheelsmith.  They were glad to swap out cogs,
	but first had to formally tell me that it could possibly
	affect the quality of the shifting, and it's not how
	Shimano-san had envisioned it so don't complain to his
	company if things don't work that well.

	Evidently there's something like 6 or 8 different types
	of hyperglide cogs, and they're all matched as a set.
	I've seen a couple of 14T cogs for example, both hyper
	glide, but with different cutouts and teeth shapes.
	In other words, if you replace a cog on your block,
	even if it's hyperglide and further, the same amount
	of teeth, there's a good chance it still won't be the
	'correct' one.

		Rich
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: drt@brolga.cc.uq.oz.au (David Taylor)
Subject: How good are frame repairs?
Organization: Prentice Centre, University of Queensland
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 09:11:27 GMT

Can good frame builders repair frames back to their original condition?
Or will it never be the same?

In this case it is a CrMo frame that plowed into a car front on,
and the top and down tubes both have a large bulge about two inches
from the head tube. When I say large I mean about 1/2 to 1 cm raise.
The repairer says he can just "pull them out".

Assuming that he is a good repairer, will the frame be perfectly aligned?
Will the frame be *significantly* weakened?

Thanks in advance. Email replies prefered.

david@cc.uq.oz.au
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: pauls@icecreambar.css.itd.umich.edu (Paul Southworth)
Subject: Re: Removing frozen freewheel
Reply-To: pauls@umich.edu
Organization: University of Michigan
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 21:36:17 GMT

Rudy Walter writes
| A seldom used older bike in the family has a broken spoke on the dished
| side of the rear wheel. I knew it would be easy to fix if only that
| !$#`% freewheel would come off. Problem is that the freewheel (screw
| on type not the cassette type) is frozen and I have partially stripped
| the raised steel edge on which the freewheel removing tool is
| supposed to seat itself. I have enough edge left to be able to seat the
| freewheel tool, but need to avoid using a lot of force. I tried some
| Liquid Wrench to free it up along with some sideways hammer tapping, but
| the sucker still isn't budging. Any miracle cures or products out there?

At this point, you should be interested in tossing that freewheel, since  
if you have destroyed the pulling faces, then you will not want to  
reinstall it.  On this basis, you have two options that I know of.

1. If you remove the axle and threaded pieces, you can go to a hardware  
store and buy a large "easy-out" reverse threaded bit.  Clamp the  
"easy-out" in a vise, and screw it into the open hole in the freewheel,  
counter clockwise until it catches, then you should be able to get the  
damn thing off.

2. You can remove the cogs with a chainwhip, and just drop the entire  
freewheel body into the vise.  Unless you also disassemble the freewheel  
to remove the outer part of the body, you will need to clamp it VERY tight  
-- tight enough to make it bind and seize.  If you can get the outer part  
of the body off the freewheel (use a punch and tap clockwise on the outer  
lockring/cone -- it's left hand thread) you'll have an easier time of it,  
since you will not have to force the pawls to seize.

The freewheel is obviously destroyed by either of these methods.  Method 2  
is easier and cheaper, but you can run the risk of deforming the threaded  
area of the hub if you are not careful.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: Michael F. Kamprath <kamprath@space-grant.sprl.umich.edu>
Subject: Re: MTB Bar Ends vs Scott Bars
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 92 16:08:38 EDT
Organization: University of Michigan, Aerospace Engineering
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d9
X-Xxmessage-Id: <A6DA69E35802C4FC@sprl-mac2016.sprl.umich.edu>
X-Xxdate: Mon, 14 Sep 92 16:10:11 GMT

In article <maarrrk.716336769@seidel> Mark Erickson, maarrrk@seidel.ucsb.edu writes:
>Scott MTB handlebars (the ones with the integral bar ends, like
>the AT-3) appear to be much lighter than the combined weight
>of regular bars and bar ends.  
>
>Anybody have a good reason to go with regular bars/ends rather than
>the Scotts?
>
>--maarrrk

I don't like the Scott bars because they are too "clunky" (a very personalized
feeling :-) So don't ask for an interpretation).  The concern about weight was on 
my mind too, so I got the Brahma ZOOM bars.  For me, I found this to be the best
option out there.  But the "feel" of something is pretty personal :-)

========================================================================
| Michael F. Kamprath                   | The University of Michigan   |
|   kamprath@space-grant.sprl.umich.edu |      Aerospace Engineering   |
|   kamprath@engin.umich.edu            |                              |
|---------------------------------------+------------------------------+
|       And if a man can't change the world these days,                |
|       I still believe he can change his own destiny.                 |
|                                 --Michael Peters (The Alarm)         |
|                                   "The Spirit of '76"                |
========================================================================
From: sutton@lamar.ColoState.EDU (Rich Sutton)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Building a Bike Frame (from scratch)
Date: 7 Sep 92 00:18:47 GMT
Organization: Colorado State University, Fort Collins, CO  80523

>
>Where can you order these parts from?  Are there any places that have
>parts catalogs
>for frame building?
>
>Rick

cyclegoods, 800-328-5213
From: chapman@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Larry Chapman)
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 15:28:34 GMT
Subject: Big cogs & Shimano Ultegra
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech


Just in case you ever wondered . . . .


An 8-speed  12-28  Shimano XTR cassette  will work with a standard  Shimano
Ultegra rear *road* derailuer.


-- LSC
From: ccoprbm@prism.gatech.EDU (Bruce McCullough)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: "Clunk" noises from the axle
Date: 11 Sep 92 15:22:53 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology

In article <18on3hINN4jq@bigboote.WPI.EDU> cwright@mickey.WPI.EDU (Charles R. Wright) writes:
>What I'm talking about is a "clunk" noise I get when I pedal real
>hard.
I have the same problem but mine didn't start until I changed the bottom 
bracket. The bike was wrecked(I got hit by a car) and the original bracket
cracked from end to end. I took a bracket that fit from one of my spare
bikes and put it on. Creak-Creak-Creak and the "clunk" you describe are
now with me where-ever I ride. Just my story-I seem to need the same answer.




-- 
Bruce Mccullough-Computer Operations Shift Supervisor
Registrar Data Systems
Georgia Institute of Technology     
Internet: ccoprbm@prism.gatech.edu
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 1992 01:18:18 EDT
From: <FZK@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Advice on aluminum frames

I am considering an aluminum racing frame and would appreciate any advice
or comments anyone can provide.  Thanks.

                                 Joe
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: stek@alcvax.pfc.mit.edu
Subject: bent frame question
Organization: MIT PLASMA FUSION CENTER
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 15:56:44 GMT

I just discovered that my frame is bent.  I got the frame this spring
and last crashed on it in April.  I am sure that the damage did not
occur then.  Anyhow, both the top and down tubes are bent as if I had a
head on with a wall.  There is no damage to the fork or fron
t wheel as  far as I can tell.  I just noticed that there
was an overlap problem between my front wheel and my shoe, so I am
confident that the bending happened recently.  I hit a few potholes
in races last weekend, but that is all I can think of.  Anyhow
has anyone had their fram bend like this without a major accident?
What about warenty coverage?  I wonder if the tubes were
overheated when the bike was built.  I guess I am going back to
riding a Cannondale.  Bother!

Paul Stek
Stek@alcvax.pfc.mit.edu
From: steve@agropyron.forests (Steve)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Removing frozen freewheel
Date: 11 Sep 92 17:36:29 GMT
Reply-To: steve@agropyron.forests
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.

now lets make this a even worse case scenario,
i have a rear wheel wiht a bullseye hub, aris freewheel,
caught a stick in the spokes at the winter park race, lost 9 spokes
6 broke, 3 pulled out the rivets from the rim and started cracks. 
the freewheel tool matches fine with the freewheel, no smeared 
teeth yet, but the rim won't support the counter-clockwise twisting, 
it flexs and is pretty trashed. - i've tried soaking it penetrating oils,
etc. is my only bet to rebuild the wheel on a super-duper old, say motorcycle rim
and twist? 4 of the broken spokes are on the freewheel side, so a 
complete relacing doesn't seem to possible. ideas? i don't want to write-off
a $60 hub if i can help it.

thanks in advance.