HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: machanicm@gtephx.UUCP (Mindy Machanic)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Allysium
Summary: growing allysum the easy way
Keywords: borders, Allysium
Date: 6 Apr 92 19:18:43 GMT
Organization: gte

In article <1992Apr6.024845.13493@unx.sas.com>, sasdjl@norma.unx.sas.com (Jeff Lopes) writes:
> I have been germinating seeds indoors in my sunroom for the past two
> weeks with great success.  I planted both purple and white varieties
> of Allysium for lots of borders around the yard.  They sprouted fine,
> maybe too fine, in fact their little stems are so fine that I don't
> know what to do with them now.  Each little cube seems to have a
> hundreed seedlings.  My impulse is to thin out the cubes to just
> a few seedlings each.  Does anybody have any ideas or can anyone
> let me know if thinning them will allow them to grow thicker stems?
> 
Don't thin them. Just plant them, they will thin themselves, and their stems
will thicken. (BTW, in my experience, the purple isn't as tough as the white. 
We planted a few clumps of each color last year, and the white has reseeded itself 
in many new clumps and spread to new areas, but the purple is still just 
struggling along in a couple small clumps.)
                                           
-Mindy
-- 
Mindy Machanic            Voice: (602) 582-7374        AG Communication Systems
Quality Engineering       Fax:   (602) 582-7111        P.O. Box 52179
UUCP: ....!{ncar!noao!asuvax | att}!gtephx!machanicm   Phoenix, AZ 85072-2179
Internet: gtephx!machanicm@asuvax.eas.asu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: djd@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (david.j.daulton)
Subject: Japanese Beetles
Organization: AT&T
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 15:50:19 GMT

A few years ago a neighbor was kind enough to put up a Japanese
beetle trap, and my yard was pretty much spared.  But last year
he did not, and my roses and hibiscus were covered with the
iridescent devils.  So I put up a trap, which filled numerous
times--but to no avail.  They were all over the place--lured to
my yard by the trap.

Then I had an idea.  How about putting up a trap, but filling
it with milky spore, and making a hole for the beasts to escape.
Then, I would hope, they would be inoculated with the spore, and
carry it off to where they lay their eggs.

The problem is, this would only draw more of them to my yard.
Also, to do the experiment correctly would take several years
and locations.  The first year, put up the "spored" trap and
regular control traps in other areas.  The second year, put
up regular traps in all areas to see if it made a difference.

So, my questions are, 1. What are the parameters needed
for the experiment (e.g. how far apart to place the spored and
regular traps.  2.  Is there anyone out there kind enough
(dumb enough?) to sacrifice their yard for this?

Dave Daulton, AT&T, Columbus, Ohio (Site of AmeriFlora '92)
From: bcking@HQ.Ileaf.COM (Christine King x4426)
Subject: Re: hallucinogenic plants was illegal plants--lobelia
Organization: Interleaf, Inc.
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 92 15:24:38 GMT

I worked in East Cambridge, Mass., during the big building boom of
the Eighties, and East Cambridge was in the thick of it.  The center
strip of the road I drove daily was a wasteland of subsoil, glass and
beercans, rutted with truck tracks.

One day I noticed a stunted plant growing there.  "Jesus!", sez I as
I drove by, "That's Datura!"  Sure enough, those leaves, that flower
bud.  Daily I stopped at the traffic light next to it, gazed at it.
It exerted a strange fascination as its beautiful flower unfolded...
it was evil, deadly, maddening, enlightening, hypnotic, primal.  It spoke
of Arizona, Carlos Castaneda, O'Keeffe .  Part of its charm was that I
was sure it was completely unnoticed by everyone else.

Later in the season that median was landscaped and sodded, limited
and tamed.  It looks quite nice now.  The power and magic has moved
somewhere else.

Watch out for it.
-- 
  Christine King
    Internet: bcking@HQ.ileaf.COM   UUCP: uunet!leafusa!bcking
    US Mail:  Interleaf, Inc.  9 Hillside Avenue  Waltham MA 02154
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: tap@cs.toronto.edu (Tony Plate)
Subject: How to control "cockchafers" in lawn
Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of Toronto
Date: 15 Apr 92 14:53:37 GMT

My parents in Australia have had their lawn infested by some
grubs called "cockchafers", which are killing the lawn.  They
are trying some (supposedly) mild chemical to kill them, but
it's not having much effect.  Does anyone know of good ways
to control this pest?  

I suggested that they should surrender, let the lawn die, and
plant a variety of grasses etc to replace the manicured lawn,
but I don't think they'll go for that.  Are there any alternatives
to lawns that provide some of the same benifits - good
to play on, practice golf shots, moderately attractive, etc?
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: shedevil@vix.com (Anne P. Mitchell)
Subject: Natural Insect/Snail Control?
Organization: Fathers' Rights & Equality Exchange
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 17:47:34 GMT

I'll just bet this is an FAQ, so please forgive me and point me in the
direction of an FAQ file if there is one!

Something started eating our Pansies <big bites out of their cute lil
faces :-(>, and our landlord informed us that we have quite a bad
snail problem around here...pluse we've SEEN oodles of bugs.  He
suggested various insecticides and snail baits..which we duly bought
last night, but my animal-rights conscious daughter is really upset at
the thought of killing the snails (as, I must admit, am I), so we
decided to see if there wasn't some natural means of repelling
them..she thought she'd remembered reading that red pepper might work.

This isn't a good place for companion planting (at least I don't think
it is) as it's a big flower box.

Thanks for any help!

Annie

-- 
    LOOKING FOR: Michael Hobson, Alex Craven, David Runyon, & Lorna Taylor
I am: Anne Mitchell, mom, law student, shedevil@leland.stanford.edu or @vix.com
     	  founder of FREE, the Fathers Rights and Equality Exchange.
 The fathers' rights paper & FREE files available via ftp: gw.home.vix.com;/pub
From: derienzo@mit.edu (Elizabeth A. DeRienzo)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: forcing rhododendrons
Date: 16 Apr 92 17:49:46 GMT
Organization: MIT

Our house is being painted, and the workers severely trimmed a large 
rhododendron that was growing against one side.  Does anyone know if I can 
force the branches into bloom in vases of water?  If yes, should I bring 
them inside or leave them in our unheated porch (i.e., do they need it to 
be cool for a while longer)?  BTW, I live on the Massachusetts - New 
Hampshire border so it's still pretty cold here ... the daffodils in my 
yard are just starting to bloom.

--
Elizabeth A. DeRienzo
derienzo@mit.edu
Senior Producer,  MIT Video Courses
              
--
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: marcos@pdx047 (Marcos O. Camargo)
Subject: W.S.U. Experimental Station
Organization: Intel Corp., Hillsboro, Oregon
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 22:29:36 GMT

I am looking for an email address of the Experimental Station of Washington
State University in Mt. Vernon, Washington.

They have experimented with a variety of peach called Frost and I would like
to obtain more information about it?

Also, if anybody in the net has planted this variety of peach and have some
experience with it, please, share it with me.

In Oregon peaches are affected by brown rot/blossom which can be controlled
by sulphur sprays.  If I don't spray do I lose the whole crop or just 50%
of it, or what?

I have a Shiro plum and they recommend spraying it for brown rot, which I never
do, but I get phenomenal harvest.  That's why I am wondering if peaches are
more susceptible to blossom blight/brown rot than another stone fruits as
Shiro plum (Japanese plum) and if I could get away with not spraying peaches
for blossom blight/brown rot.

Thanks,


 


-- 
Marcos O. Camargo             |  e-mail:  marcos@ichips.intel.com
Intel Corp.  JF1-19           |  phone :  (503) 696-4273
5200 N.E. Elam Young Parkway  |  FAX   :  (503) 681-9017
Hillsboro, Oregon  97124      |
From: seb1@leia.dr.att.com (131010000-BadianS(DR1510)43)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: SNAILS.....shudder
Keywords: *&^^*(**@@!!!
Date: 7 Apr 92 20:38:56 GMT
Reply-To: seb1@vader.att.com
Distribution: usa
Organization: Bell Labs, Denver, Co.

In article <1992Apr6.044705.24132@cbfsb.cb.att.com>, djd@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (david.j.daulton) writes:
|> Yes, ducks and geese eat snails.  Also hedgehogs.   The horticulturalist at
|> a local municipal garden told me he knows of nothing else that eats snails,
|> yet he noted his hostas have little snail damage there.  He attributes it
|> to the balanced ecosysytem there (the garden is surrounded by about
|> 70 acres of woodland) but does not know what creature to thank.  Personally,
|> I suspect garter snakes (I once saw one eat a snail on a nature show on
|> TV.)  Am I wrong?

Snakes sound like a good candidate. Also, maybe frogs and toads and turtles.
I know they all eat slugs with great relish. Maybe they go for snails too.
Toads are supposed to be very good for the garden because they eat lots of
buggies. If you live next to 70 acres of woodland you probably don't have
any idea how many toads are hanging around!

-- 
Sharon Badian
seb1@vader.att.com or seb1@druhi.att.com
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: bcrowley@hamp.hampshire.edu
Subject: Licorice root source?
Organization: Hampshire College
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1992 18:11:44 GMT

I am looking for a source of licorice root ( Glycyrrhiza glabra) to plant.
I have seen photos of the plant at Beal-Garfield Botanical Garden at Michigan
State University. East Lasing Mich. If any one out there in net land is from
Mich or has contact with the University, I would appreciate an e mail address
or name of a contact there.  I understand it is a temperate-zone perennial,
and hope that it can be cultivated outside a greenhouse this far north.
If not I suppose I could find a way to protect it during the winter months.
If I could find the spanish type (glabra var. typica) that would be great
as this type is the sweetest.  Any info would be greatly appreciated.


Bob C  
Millers Falls, Mass.           



Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: ramsey@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Brenda Ramsey)
Subject: propagation of Staghorn Ferns
Originator: ramsey@kona.cs.ucla.edu
Organization: UCLA Computer Science Department
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 92 16:44:01 GMT

Several years ago a friend have me a couple pieces of her
huge staghorn fern.  I filled a wire basket with sphagnum
moss and a little dirt and then poked the pieces of
staghorn through some of the hole.  My ferns now span about
4 feet across and have totally engulfed the wire basket.

Question:  I cannot remember how she extracted pieces of the
fern for me.  I keep looking for areas where I might pick
pieces off but can seem to locate anything.  I would like
to add a few more to my back yard; they are low mtce and
nice to look at.  Every month or so, I throw a banana peel
in the top of the basket.

-- 
Brenda Ramsey  (213) 825-3643
UCLA Computer Science Department
ramsey@CS.UCLA.EDU
..!(uunet,ucbvax,rutgers)!cs.ucla.edu!ramsey
From: machanicm@gtephx.UUCP (Mindy Machanic)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Spring Hill catalog
Summary: bulbs and mail order
Date: 13 Apr 92 17:39:18 GMT
Organization: AG Communication Systems, Phoenix, Arizona

In article <1992Apr11.014205.14683@usenet.ins.cwru.edu>, esh2@po.CWRU.Edu (Evelyn S. Hlabse) writes:
> I have ordered bulbs from Breck's and they have been beautiful.  I am
> now getting mailings from Spring Hill.  After reading about the Michigan
> Bulb company I am a little apprehensive about ordering from catalogs 
> although as I said I've had no trouble with Breck's.  How about Spring
> Hill?  Their prices look good.  Pictures are lovely but aren't they all.

I sent another message about Spring Hill being a very good place with instant refunds
and reshipping of stuff that doesn't make it, no questions asked. This one's about
bulbs.

I don't know about Breck's. Their catalogs are beautiful, and since they are somehow
affiliated with SpringHill and I trust SpringHill, I would tend to trust them. I also
found that Park Seed ships good bulbs and has good customer service, although, more
of my bulbs from SpringHill grew than did the ones from Park Seed. Park's are a little
bigger, but Spring Hill bulbs are also quite nice. 

Mindy
-- 
*****************************************************************************************
Mindy Machanic  (AG Communication Systems/Quality Engineering, Phoenix, AZ)               
UUCP: ....!{ncar!noao!asuvax | att}!gtephx!machanicm       FAX: (602) 52-7111
Internet: gtephx!machanicm@asuvax.eas.asu.edu              Voice: (602) 582-7374
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: HELP SOUGHT FROM OWNERS OF MID-LARGE GREENHOUSES - BUG INFESTATION!
Date: 9 Apr 92 18:37:33 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

vida@skagit.bu.edu (Vida Jakabhazy) writes:
> I am one of several people who have been left to maintain a university-owned
> greenhouse (if we don't do it, the remaining specimens will die).  We are
> well-intentioned people, but do not have sufficient knowledge to combat a
> recent infestation of aphids and gnat-like critters.  Due to the recent
> introduction of fresh water plants, we have now the ideal breeding grounds for
> these pests and they are taking over the greenhouse.  

Vida:  You have several options:  straight "chemical" (in which case som
someone will probably need to get a pesticide certification); mixed 
"chemical"  and organic, and straight organic.  My experiences seem to
indicate that the mixed approach, using selected pesticides and an
integrated pest management approach is probably the least-cost, least
time approach, but it does require a fair amount of knowledge.

Our gh at UNI uses a mixed approach for a variety of reasons (some
political, some biological); we use a lot of sticky traps and Enstar,
some fungicides and some insecticides.  I'll get our current spray
schedule from the gh manager tomorrow and email it to you.
You will probably need to get a pesticide certification sooner or later
unless your state is really loose about regulations. 
In general, except for insect growth regulators like methoprene and 
enstar, and except for physical control methods (like flyswatters or
sticky traps), you'll need to rotate the chemicals you're spraying
to avoid building up resistance in the insect populations.  Doesn't
matter if you're spraying pyrethrum (organic) or diazanon (most
decidedly nasty), spray it long enough and you'll start selecting
for pests resistant to your goodies...

Several things you should look at in much greater detail:

Yellow sticky traps -- can be simply homemade by cutting up cheap
 masonite or aspenite or something similar and painting it bright
 yellow.  About the shade that they use for trim on John Deere tractors.
 A little more yellow (less gold) than the average school bus.
 Let the paint dry, coat it with anything sticky (white corn syrup
 works well, and it's cheap) and suspend over the benches.  We use 
 a 6" square every 2-3 feet along a bench.  Collects beaucoup
 whitefly; also fungus gnats and a lot of other flying insects.  
 Somebody gets to wash the boards about every 2-3 weeks; then
 recoat with karo and you're in business again.

Enstar-- insect growth regulator effective against many species;
 expensive, fairly long lasting, well worth it.

Bacillus thuringensis -- good against a lot of insects, including
 most lepidopteran larvae with a high-gut pH.  I prefer the
 strain called B.t. var Kurstaki, sold as Tribactur and Javelin.

Kay Klier  Biology Dept  UNI

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: dadams@cherry.cray.com (David Adams)
Subject: Re: soaker hoses -- etc.
Originator: dadams@cherry
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 9 Apr 92 12:04:52 CDT



I have learned from asking around, that one of the reasons
for using soaker hoses is that you water the ground and
not the leaf.  Also when the soaker is burried the crust
is not watered, hence weeds are not given the opportunity
to germinate.

In the summary I posted there seems to be quite a few who
recomend just barely burrying the hose, say 1" rather than
the 3 or 4" recomended.  Is there some disadvantage to this?
Is it deep enough to get the benefits?

-david adams      dadams@cray.com
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Help identify this plant???  :-(
Date: 13 Apr 92 18:26:57 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

dweber@ncsa.uiuc.edu (Daniel Weber) writes:
> The plant:
> Medium height at about 9"-12" (currently).  Can be grown in a hanging basket
>     as the stems will start to droop.
> 
> Leaves grow opposite on stems like this:
>                          _ || _
>                         <_>||<_>
> 			   ||
>     and are anywhere from 1" long to less than 1/4" long (immature ones?).
>     They're light green (now) though I've seen them a little darker (but not
>     *dark* green).  They're kinda fuzzy to the touch and the little hairs
>     add a touch of white to them.
> 
> The stems appear to emerge in pairs at the same time form the base of the 
>     leaves.
> 
> Flowers are a beautiful dark purple, and are sort of cup-shaped-and-trumpet-
>     like.  That confuse you?  I mean that they are about an inch long and 
>     narrow, but down towards the actual opening on the front of the flower 
>     there is a sort of curved cup-shaped section before it opens to the air.
>     It's not as cup shaped as parts of orchids, but definitely curved.  From
>     what I remember the little flower stems emerge from between the leaves near
>     the stem, like this:
>                        >_  ||  _<
>                          \ || /   
>                          _\||/_
>                         <_>||<_>
> 			   ||

Sounds like Streptocarpus saxorum, of the Gesneriaceae (African violet family).
Leaves can be up to 1.25" long, matt green, and softly fuzz.  Sometimes the
leaves appear in whorls of three, rather than opposite.  The flowers are
5-lobed, lilac, with a white mouth and tube and usually borne
singly or in pairs from axils. The flowers are about 1.25-1.5" wide, and the
lower three lobes are larger than the upper two lobes.

Does this sound right?

Kay Klier  Biology Dept  UNI
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: djd@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (david.j.daulton)
Subject: Re: Tuberose?
Organization: AT&T
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1992 13:27:47 GMT

I think your tuberose should sprout when weather gets warmer.

One reference I read said that tuberose likes warm weather to sprout,
but cool weather to grow.  That is a rather odd requirement.  In my
garden I met it (partially) by planting them under a sparse plum tree
that leafed out late.  So they sprouted in full spring sun, but in
summer they had some shade.

I don't normally bother with tender bulbs, but I make an exception for
this.  One book I have on scented gardens says that some consider the
tuberose to be THE most fragrant flower.

Unfortunately, I have to buy new bulbs each year--not because mine die,
but because, when I dig them up in the fall, they have always turned
from being a nice big bulb, into a bunch of tiny bulbets around a
depleted center bulb.  I don't know why, or how to avoid that.

Dave Daulton, AT&T, Columbus, Ohio (Site of AmeriFlora '92)
From: machanicm@gtephx.UUCP (Mindy Machanic)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Garden sprayers, whitefly
Keywords: whitefly, ash trees, spray
Date: 9 Apr 92 18:59:58 GMT
Organization: AG Communication Systems, Phoenix, Arizona

> >Any recommendations? Or does anyone know of
> >another way to keep these little buggers down? Thanks!
> 
> Much as I hate to say it, I wouldn't bother. The reports I've seen indicate
> that (1) spraying, safer's, ivory or whatever, might wash the dirt off the
> whitefly but does almost nothing else, and (2) spraying IS more likely to
> kill off the beneficial insects like the parasitic wasps that might be
> trying to eat the whitefly. So spraying can very well make it worse.
> 
> There's currently no control for the damn things. Using a garden hose once a
> week to spray the tree and trying to drown the little buggers is about as
> effective as anything and a lot cheaper than trying to bubble-bath them to
> death, plus it won't kill off the good bugs. There is a lot of research
> going into controls, but so far, the whiteflies are winning.

I don't know about how it would work for trees, but planting pyrethrum-bearing 
flowers (i.e., calendula and painted daisies) seems to keep the whiteflies
away from our hibiscus bushes, which they otherwise adore. Last year, we planted
calendulas near them, and up until it got so hot the calendulas fried, we had
no whiteflies around the hibiscus (we did have them on the lantana with no companion
calendulas). When the calendulas died, the whiteflies appeared on the hibiscus. 

This year we are planting painted daisies, which won't die off. (our seasons for 
this are backwards here - the calendulas do spectacularly well in winter and spring 
and then die; reseeding happens and the new plants show up in late fall.) Since 
painted daisies are taller than calendulas, maybe planting a bunch of them around 
the tree will help, at least at the bottom. (At worst, they'll look pretty!)

-- 
*****************************************************************************************
Mindy Machanic  (AG Communication Systems/Quality Engineering, Phoenix, AZ)               
UUCP: ....!{ncar!noao!asuvax | att}!gtephx!machanicm    FAX: (602) 581-4022
Internet: gtephx!machanicm@asuvax.eas.asu.edu           Voice: (602) 582-7374
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: HF.SLK@forsythe.stanford.edu (Stewart Kramer)
Subject: Re: Bearded Iris source in San Jose??
Organization: Stanford University, California, USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 21:54:04 GMT

In article <sce8mINNb1s@grapevine.EBay.Sun.COM>,
kimf@amaryllis.EBay.Sun.COM (Kim Foster) writes:
>I was told by a lady that I met at the party this weekend that there
>is a bearded iris grower somewhere in San Jose that sales the most
>exotic bearded irises.  She doesn't know the name or address and said
>that she has never been there but hearded that from her mother.
>
>Does anyone on the net know about this source?  I would appreciate
>a name or a phone number of this grower.

Maryott's Gardens
1069 Bird Av. (8 blocks South of I-280)
San Jose

Their recording at (408) 971-0444 says their display garden will
open Saturday, April 18th, and they will be open through mid-May,
hours are Wed.-Sun. 9-5.

I went last year, and the irises I ordered are coming into bloom.
(I believe they only take orders at this time, and ship plants
later in the season after the plants finish blooming.)
---
Stewart Kramer
From: lpaul@krissy.msi.umn.edu (Paul Morin)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Dandelions
Date: 15 Apr 92 16:33:23 GMT
Article-I.D.: news2.1992Apr15.163323.1344
Reply-To: lpaul@krissy.msi.umn.edu (Paul Morin)
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Minnesota

Pat Gleason writes
> In <1992Apr14.145753.4227@meaddata.com> derrick@meaddata.com (Derrick Tatem)
> writes:
> 
> >This is my first time posting to this group. Being a home owner, every  
spring
> >I tend to have the same problem, DANDELIONS! <etc>
> 
> I've had that problem in the past.  Scott's Turf Builder Plus Halts took care
> of it.  

A better solution is just to eat them!  There is nothing better than a good  
dandelion salad.  I'd be a little careful if you were spreading nasty chemicals  
all over your lawn in past years.

Paul Morin

Minnesota Supercomputer Institute
Newsgroups: rec.gardens