HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: How can I get rid of wild grass?
Date: 20 Aug 92 19:26:03 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

scheiman@sceng.UB.Com (Scott Scheiman) writes:
> I've just finished clearing a plot of weeds and wild grasses.  
I presume we're talking a city lot and not a nice piece of
native habitat???
> P.S.  Friends and I have already come up with three ideas:
> 
> 1)  Dig the seeds under--turn the dirt so most of them are buried deep 
>     enough they won't succeed.  Not easy.
  Well, only if you want to till and kill, and till and kill, and till
and kill...  There's a bunch of seeds already in the soil (botanists
call it a "seed bank", and these can remain dormant for up to 100+
years.  That seed bank can extend to 20 ft deep in the soil.  Dig those 
buried seeds up, and they'll sprout if you add water and light.


  We sometimes just this when you've got a bad annual weed problem,
and you want to plant something perennial that won't be able to take
the weed competition easily at first.  So you till, then kill the
weed seedlings, and repeat the process several times.  This helps
exhaust the most readily available portions of the seed bank,
and hopefully, the perennials will have a fighting chance.
  

> 2)  Cover the ground with opaque plastic.  I presume this would starve 
>     sprouted grass of light and kill it, but I have no idea how long 
>     I'd need to do this.  Probably not quick.
This works well if you're not going to till up the soil again very much
when you replant.  Considering the number of seeds on the soil
surface, this doesn't sound like the best choice for a one-shot deal.

> 3)  Cover the area semi-permanently with tar paper or the like.  This 
>     approach assumes an answer to "what to plant there":  scattered 
>     decorative plants such as low spreading bushes.  The paper would be 
>     left "permanently" (as long as it would last), covered with wood 
>     chips or the like (for decoration), and holes cut away to plant 
>     things.  This is interesting, but limits the possibilities.
This also works well, but as you say, can be limiting.
If you do this, you might want to ask about "geotextiles", which are
specially designed for this purpose.  A really heavy mulch around
plantings also will stop weed growth.

One other possibility, though, is to cover the area with a *clear*
plastic tarp (after watering well), and leave everything covered
for the two hottest months of the summer.  Essentially, you're
cooking the weed seeds in place in the soil.  Works well, I hear,
but I think you'd need a warmer summer than most of the US has had this
year!

Since you don't know what you want to do yet, maybe you should consider
planting a cover crop now, --say oats or buckwheat -- and digging it in
next spring.  This keeps the soil from eroding during the winter and
early spring rains, and adds some nice organic material to the soil--
something most city soils are generally lacking in.  Then you can
spend the winter planning your *real* planting, and execute the plans 
next spring.

Kay Klier
From: gcopmse@state.systems.sa.gov.au
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: wanted chamomile seeds
Date: 19 Aug 92 22:46:28 GMT
Organization: State Systems, South Australia

im looking to plant a "lawn" of chamomile this herb according to local
nurseries is very adaptable to growing as a lawn and needs to be trimmed once
or twice a year as well as producing an abundant amount of white flowres (as
well as cups of tea) now my problem is to plant a lawn i need lots of plants-
very expensive or seed which i cannot get a hold of if there is any one out
there that may be able to supply me with a source this would be apprecited as
spring is comming and it would be a good time to plant  thanks


 mike 
 adelaide    
 south australia
From: carolp@techbook.com (Carolyn Peterson)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: brown/black spots on rose bush
Date: 14 Aug 92 04:40:22 GMT
Organization: TECHbooks of Beaverton Oregon - Public Access Unix

bcking@HQ.Ileaf.COM (Christine King) writes:


>I've never done *anything* about this in the 9 years I've been living
>with these roses, except ask my Mom what to do and store the toxic
>chemicals she gave me in the back of the garage...



A local gardening show host interviewed a horticulturist from Jackson
& Perkins, who mentioned a home brew mixture for black spot and
mildew.  This is being tried at a university, possibly Cornell?, but
I was too busy writing the formula to get that, too.   
 
Anyway, mix together: 
 
2 1/2 - 3 teaspoons baking soda 
1/2 teaspoon liquid soap 
1 gallon water 
 
Spray the mixture on the plants.  The theory is that this solution
will change the pH of the leaf surface so the spores can't spread to
more leaves.  This is still in the experimental stage, but if you
don't want to use fungicides, you might want to try it.


-- 
Carolyn Peterson          
carolp@techbook.COM  
(No affiliation with Techbooks)
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Starting Hemerocallis From Seeds
Date: 19 Aug 92 05:10:02 GMT
Article-I.D.: iscsvax.1992Aug19.101002.6120
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

steveh@or.credence.com (Steve Holder) writes:

Re: advice to plant Hemerocallis seeds in a zip-lock bag in refrigerator
to vernalize them, then plant in soil about February...

Sure, sounds like it should work. Only change I'd make would be to
substitute 1/2 damp sand, 1/2 chopped sphagnum for the damp paper towel--
then you shouldn't need to worry about mold.

There's also a not-well-known-trick for dealing with seeds that
have to have a dormancy period:  if you harvest them before they
are ripe, they may be immediately germinable.  Many of the dormancy
factors are "added" just before the seeds are fully mature.

As to exactly _how_ early to harvest seeds, it's a matter of 
experimentation.  I figure at least 2-3 weeks before I expect the
seed to be fully ripe.  If you try this, you MUST plant the seeds
within a few days -- immature seed does not store well _at all_.
With a bit of coaxing, and some special techniques like germinating
the seeds on sterile agar with minerals and sucrose, I've gotten 
seedlings from seeds that were pollinated only 2 weeks before.  When
they're a little older and start filling out, though, you don't need
anything more than regular potting soil for germination.

Kay Klier   Biology Dept  UNI
From: kcarroll@milton.u.washington.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: landscape designer needed
Date: 21 Aug 92 19:16:01 GMT
Organization: University of Washington

We just bought a new house about a mile down the road. The yard is wonderful  
lawn, rhodies, azalea and ferns.All Spring color. I am leaving flower/ herb  
gardens, but can return to take cuttings, thin, etc.

I would like to hire a pro to design for this new sight but $ is limited.
Has anyone had experience hiring landscape architech grad students?
Could I ask for a design and a planting plan to complete myself over several  
seasons?  In fact, I enjoy the dirty work; I just feel unable to plan a new  
Pacific NW garden from scratch. 

Advice welcome
e-mail kcarroll@milton.u.washington.edu
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles
From: dab@vuse.vanderbilt.edu (The Nashville Flash)
Subject: Spagthorpe Werewolf, Mudvalve Problems
Originator: dab@space3
Organization: Vanderbilt University School of Engineering, Nashville, TN, USA
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 18:29:43 GMT

Whilst visiting my friend with the Werewolf the other night, he presented me
with a conundrum.  The time that the bike spent at the bottom of the lake
has apparently caused some corrosion *inside* the mudvalve.  As such, it 
cannot be removed without first disassembling it.  Conversely, it cannot be 
disassembled without first removing it.  Setting all Harley Davidson tools 
aside, how does one go about approaching the cleaning and renewing of a 
seized mudvalve?

Beyond that... does anyone have access to the factory literature or know 
where copies can be had?  Are there any NOS mudvalve kits or (God forbid) 
complete mudvalve assemblies "out there?"

Please note that we DO have the necessary double-helix spanners as well as 
the MV1 holder-fixture-jig assembly for when we get the damn thing loose.
Can anyone suggest a source for pootane gas?
============================================================================
 "No hour of life is lost that is spent in the garage." - Julian Spagthorpe
    The Nashville Flash	  -   dab@vuse.vanderbilt.edu   -   DoD # 412 

Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles
From: cdw2t@dayhoff.med.Virginia.EDU (Clifford David Weston)
Subject: Re: Yamaha TDM 850
Organization: University of Virginia
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 23:55:39 GMT

In article <l10mfwr@lynx.unm.edu> tjones@triton.unm.edu (Tom Jones (No Really)) writes:

>I would like to get any advice, riding impressions, and/or
>recommendations from anyone that owns a TDM or simply has 
>an opinion about the bike (either pro or con).

i don't own one, but i like 'em.  the review i read liked 'em, too (rider
mag, june or july)

>+----------------------------------------------------+
>| Tom Jones                    tjones@triton.unm.edu |  
>+----------------------------------------------------+

now there's a real man's (tm) .sig!

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
|       Cliff Weston                     '92 Seca II (Tem)                 |
|       DoD# 0598                         [insert witty disclaimer here]   |
|                                                                          |
| I would get a little stiff/sore somewhere around 6-8 hours, depending on |
| the # of breaks, etc... Ann says she never got sore even on 10 hour long |
|        days.  She did better than I did.       --  Keith Schauer         |
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: kenm@array.com (Ken Murphy)
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles
Subject: Re: %$*#^$! Tailgaters
Date: 20 Aug 92 18:14:09 GMT
Organization: Array Microsystems, Colorado Springs, CO. USA

viking@iastate.edu (Dan Sorenson) writes:
: In <5676@vtserf.cc.vt.edu> ranck@joesbar.cc.vt.edu (Wm. L. Ranck) writes:
: 
: >   The same rule applies to drunks, let them pass then keep an eye on them 
: >from behind, it is safer.
: 
: 	I disagree.  If a drunk causes an accident and you're following,
: guess where you are headed?  Yup, right towards the accident and the
: other drivers swerving to stay out of the carnage.  I pass them and speed
: on to the next exit, whereupon I find a pay phone and call in his plate,
: speed, direction, and all that other nice stuff.  Then I head back onto
: the road, secure in the knowledge that a state trooper will soon pass
            ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
	    I had an incident happen last year with a drunken GI idiot
wherein I did the same.  Said Drunken GI rammed the rear of my SO's car,
with me and my kids in it also, because she had no where to go to get out
of his way in the two lane road.  There was rush hour traffic and she just
had no place to go and really didn't want to be in front of the drunk 
sonofabitch anyway.  I thought for a second about just raising out of the
sunroof and putting 2-3 240gr JHP's into the radiator from the .44 Ruger.
Instead I called the police and they said...

Police: "Is your car dented?"
Me: "He rammed the bumper.  You don't seem to understand, this guy is 
drunk and is going to get somebody killed"
Police: "O, Your car isn't dented?  Well..... I'll see if there are any
troopers in the area, thanks for your call"

I then drove the 18 miles home, on the same road he was using, and didn't 
see even a local cop.  I really felt like I should have popped his radiator
and let him ruin his truck, but, there were entirely too many witnesses.
BTW, we had people stop and give us their names and phone numbers cause
the asshole had run them off the road too.

Morale:?  The police don't always give a damn.


  O                    Ken Murphy aka kenm@array.com              President RMEC
 <M> MerfMan          DoD #0479      '92 KTM 250 EX/C              Member COHVCO
_/ \_                 Race Now Party Later Racing Team                AMA 406077
Disclaimer: _I_ don't believe what I said, why should you?              SRAC 886
                   *******  Support Project Stealth ******
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles
From: hamm@weejordy.physics.mun.ca (Craig Hamm)
Subject: Can't find Meguirs.  Toothpaste?
Organization: Ocean Sciences Centre
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 23:40:41 GMT


	I've called every bike shop in the area.  Nobody has even EVER
	heard of Meguirs(sp?) plastic polish/cleaner for plastic.

	However, a colleague has told me that Topol, or most toothpastes
	also work very well on plastic/plexiglass.  I would have thought
	it was too abarasive for removing *microscratches*.  

	I have known people to use t-paste as a cheap, or make-shift,
	rubbing compound though.  

	Any further comments?  

	CH
-- 
  
    Craig Hamm, 		From 'Viz', Victor Pratt, the stupid twat
    Memorial University	        Biker: "My bike's got a flat, Vic"
    DoD #1500,           	Vic:   "Really? Whereabouts is it living?"
    '81 Maxim 650 
    ----
From: ronih@zxninja.Eng.Sun.COM (Ron Ih - Analog Engineering)
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles
Subject: Dual compound tires???
Date: 20 Aug 92 16:04:44 GMT
Reply-To: ronih@zxninja.Eng.Sun.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems
NNTP-Posting-Host: zxninja


Due to everyday commuting to work, my straightline to twisty riding ratio has
risen considerably and my rear tire is worn to the warning marks in the center
while retaining plenty of rubber left on the side tread.

Can anyone recommend a good dual compound tire which will wear well in the center
but still let me drag an occasional footpeg in the twisties? My friend's CBR1000
came with Bridgerock something-or-others that were dual compound and held corners
pretty well, but they didn't come in my rim size. Any recommendations?

Thanx.


Ron Ih
1990 Kawasaki ZX-6
ronih@zxninja.Eng.Sun.COM
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles
From: manuel@space.ualberta.ca  (John Manuel)
Subject: Re: Windshield and rip in seat
Reply-To: manuel@space.ualberta.ca  (John Manuel)
Organization: University Of Alberta, Edmonton Canada
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 03:21:25 GMT

In article <Bt3H5F.63A@helios.physics.utoronto.ca>  
olivers@helios.physics.utoronto.ca (Oliver Schonborn) writes:
> I'd like to know if there's any special trick I can use to repair a small
> rip (2 inches) in my motorcycle seat.  Right now there's tape but it
> doesn't stay in place (I guess my bodyheat softens the glue) and is slowly
> moving off the rip every time I use the bike.

You go to Canadian Tire, eh? (<- that's for the Americans) and buy a vinyl  
repair kit. You'll need some seat material to make the patch from, but  
there's likely some excess underneath the seat that you can use.

--
John R. Manuel                 Department of Physics, University of Alberta
manuel@space.ualberta.ca                 Edmonton, Alberta, CANADA, T6G 2J1
Office: (403) 492-2526          (NeXTMail OK)           Fax: (403) 492-0714
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles
From: viking@iastate.edu (Dan Sorenson)
Subject: Re: Torque VS. Horse power: What is the difference????
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames IA
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 23:58:17 GMT

molenda@i1.msi.umn.edu (Jason Molenda) writes:
>parker@gdls.UUCP (The Dougster) writes:
>>harmons@.WV.TEK.COM (Harmon Sommer) writes:
>>
>>> BHP = (TorqueXRPM)/5252

>>Why is it called *brake* horse power?

>How can anyone be this stupid?  The `b' stands for `butane', silly.

	Horses emit methane, I thought.  No, it's really "break" horsepower,
mainly due to the correllation of increasing horsepower and increasing
parts breakage.

<Dan Sorenson, DoD #1066 |"There'll be angels on Ariels in leather>
<z1dan@exnet.iastate.edu | and chrome, Ridin' down from heaven    >
<viking@iastate.edu      | just to carry me home." -- R. Thompson >
< ISU thinks I need more education, which they provide for a fee. >
From: shz@garage.att.com (Keeper of the 'Tude)
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles
Subject: Re: CA Rain Grooves (Was Chaps and grooves)
Date: 14 Aug 92 17:14:43 GMT
Article-I.D.: cbnewsm.1992Aug14.171443.20080
Distribution: na
Organization: Office of 'Tude Licensing

In article <1444@seqp4.sequoia.com>, cantrell@seqp4.sequoia.com (Paul Cantrell) writes:
> Why do they groove
> the pavement there? It's very rare here, even though we get a lot of rain.

I don't know where you're located, but grooving is very popular in New Jersey
and Pennsylvania.

> I can see that it would be more difficult to cut the concrete that
> way, but I've always wondered how you ride on on grooved pavement. The few
> places I've done it in the East, I haven't liked it one bit.

You point the bike in the desired direction and not worry about it.  Those
studded metal grate bridges are much more grating on the nerves than
simple grooved pavement.  My personal favorite is the latest paving
craze: loose gravel over oil.  The two inch ridges of loose gravel
are especially pleasurable when they're nice and fresh.

- Roid
From: tgrupe@watnxt08.ucr.edu (Todd Grupe)
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles
Subject: For Sale: Kawi 440LTD
Date: 17 Aug 92 23:28:56 GMT

Just got back to Southern California and my Kawasaki yesterday after 2 months  
in New York, the land of now-legally-topless-women.  Which last has nothing to  
do with my transferring to SUNY in 2 weeks.  It was ecstasy jumping back on and  
firing up after too long in cages and on foot... but the bike is going to have  
to be sold, as money and weather won't permit me to keep it in NY.

1980 Kawi 440 LTD, black
16K miles 
runs excellent, perfect compression
alarm/kill switch
carry box
Windjammer IV fairing, custom mount
National Cycle full windshield
manual
other extras
$700 obo.. replies to address below.

TG            DoD #4043
--
tgrupe@watserv.ucr.edu

generic .sig
generic .sig
generic .sig

What are you reading this for?
From: jearls@tekig6.PEN.TEK.COM (Jeffrey David Earls)
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles
Subject: Re: Automatics
Date: 21 Aug 92 21:44:42 GMT
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Beaverton,  OR.

In article <1480@seqp4.sequoia.com> cantrell@seqp4.sequoia.com (Paul Cantrell) writes:
>kelton@ocf.berkeley.edu (Allen Kelton) writes:
>> > I know all scooters are automatics,
>
>
>I've never seen a road bike with an automatic, and I dread the day I do...
>

I had never seen an automatic road bike until three weeks ago.  

I was on my way up to The Scouting Trip for the GPNDG at about 5:30 on a
Friday afternoon.  Due to a wreck on the I5 bridge across the Columbia,
traffic in my lane was blocked for about 10 miles, so I jumped into the 
next lane to the right and rode all the way up to the interchange exit
looking for a place to get back into the left lane.  I finally spied a
bike ahead with plenty of space behind him so I dropped anchor and
took the space.  Unfortunately, this surprised the bike rider more 
than a little bit.  I quickly understood the reason that the car behind
was giving him space.

Picture a thin guy in his late 50's to early 60's in a gray business suit
and a rather old-looking helmet riding a small UJM of indeterminate age
with a briefcase bungeed to the back.  He was putting along and occasionally
dragging his feet, which were clad only in penny loafers.  He was also doing
a lot of low speed weaving while trying to keep the bike upright and under
control.  And he obviously wasn't paying a bit of attention to his mirrors
or else he would have noticed the fully loaded FJ coming in hard on the
binders and taking up residence off his right shoulder.  I blame myself for
coming in so hot and surprising him but I was running out of space to get
back into the left lane.

After about a minute we got to talking (traffic was _real_ slow).  He sez,"
What is that? a 750?"  I told him nicely "No it a 1200".  It was at that
point that I noticed he was riding a CM400_A_ with the "A" standing for
'Automatic'.  He said, "Yep, I just picked this up yesterday.  These
400's really move out."  

He soon had the opportunity to accelerate (after passing throught the 
interchange) into an opening to the left.  At the same time I took
advantage of a clear exit-only lane to my right and, being the squid
that I am, kicked in the warp drive.  All the while thinking, "Yep, those
400's really move out"

Anyway the moral here is that there is a bike for everybody and at least
he was riding.  (However, I don't know if I would have been so willing
to brave rush-hour traffic on my second day on a motorcycle.)

Ride Safe Everyone,

--Jeff





--
===============================================================================
|Jeff Earls  jearls@tekig6.pen.tek.com |     DoD #0530  KotTG  WMTC #0002     |
|'89 FJ1200 - Millennium Falcon        |   Squid Factor: 3.67 and climbing... | 
|'86 VF500F - Igor!  It's _ALIVE_!!!!  | "Hit the button Chewie!"... Han Solo |
From: smm@rodan.UU.NET (Steve Mansfield)
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles
Subject: Re: How do you get your way in traffic?
Date: 14 Aug 1992 10:18:59 -0400
Organization: UUNET Technologies Inc, Falls Church, VA
NNTP-Posting-Host: rodan.uu.net

In article <1064@galileo.rtn.ca.boeing.com> meb4593@galileo.rtn.ca.boeing.com (Michael Bain) writes:
>
>It was disgusting, but I had to drive my cage into work the other day
>because it needed some work done.  As I was trying to merge in to a
>lane, this "lady" cut me off ... I thought "shit this never happens
>when I ride the bike".  But then it happened the next day, another
>asshole (and 30 feet later I can get in the HOV lane, ha ha).  So
>there's gotta be something I can do rather than just wimp out, without
>getting killed or "tarnishing" our image.
>
>	1) A bat came to mind, but I haven't figured out how to carry
>	   it.

Make a scabbard-type thing which you could strap to your back and just
pull the puppy on out of there when someone tries to kill you!  8-)

>	2) I remember somebody put sheet metal screws in the sides of
>	   their boot soles (Mike S. ?).  A good swipe may get them the
>	   message. 

Ahh, but if you kick hard enough, and pierce the door with said screws,
your foot may become stuck.  Not a good thing.

>	3) A swift kick in the door.  But would that throw me off
>	   balance and didn't a biker in the bay area get in a little
>	   trouble when the car lost it into a telephone pole?

My ninja friend had to do this the other day when a little old lady tried
to merge into him.  He had about 2 feet left before the guard rail, and
ended up putting a decent sized dent in the lady's door with 2 kicks before
she moved back into her lane....*sigh*  Cager's fault in my opinion.
People in this country have to learn to accept responsibility for their
own actions.  I remember a suit a while back in VA, where a guy won a
case against a ceiling fan company, for not labeling their fans with
warning stickers that said not to throw small children in to the fan
blades while they are moving...


Steve Mansfield                   Junior AlterNet Engineer 
smm@uunet.uu.net                  uunet!smm