HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: High curb idle
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 16:25:16 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 In addition to the Pinto being much smaller than a V-8, the Pinto original
carb is a Holley/Weber progressive 2-BBL with idle on the primary only;
the other 2BBL probably has idle on both bores. The idle circuit may not
be settable low enough to starve out the motor. A replacement 2BBL 
progressive ought to be cheap enough and easy enough to find. The 2300 Pinto
carb was pretty nice. It makes a good replacement carb for EFI-carb
conversions on things like Fiat convertibles and other 2-liter range motors.

-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bweddle@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Blaine J Weddle)
Subject: HELP:  Can rear end noise be adjusted out?
Organization: The Ohio State University
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 02:54:07 GMT

I have a 1983 Pontiac Trans Am am experiencing a "whining" sound coming from 
the rear end.  I have already replaced the rear end TWICE in the past nine 
months (used rear ends) due to their eventual failure after this whining sound
started.  The noise is not bad yet, but I anticipate that the rear end will 
have to be replaced in another 4 to 6 months.  Is there any adjustment that can
be made in order to save this rear end before it gets any worse?  The mechanics
I have talked to seem to think not, but I doubt their abilities.  Please help.

Blaine Weddle
bweddle@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu

Note:  I have the 305 Crossfire engine with a 700R4 transmission.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: iseman@ravel.udel.edu (Stephen Early)
Subject: diagnostic code 17 on '88 dodge dakota
Organization: University of Delaware
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 02:47:03 GMT


Anyone know what code 17 is?  Where can I get a complete list?

Steve
From: dd@ra.cs.umb.edu (Dave Dunbrack)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Help with older GM transistorized ignition
Date: 25 Jan 93 18:24:55 GMT
Organization: University of Massachusetts at Boston, Dept of Math and CS


  While working on my car (1969 Corvette) the other day I noticed that
whoever it was that ripped out the transistorized ignition didn't take
the ignition amplifier. This started me thinking; since I can't find 
an aftermarket electronic distributor that has both vacuum advance and
mechanical tachometer drive (does such a beast exist?), why not put back 
the transistor ignition? This raised a lot of questions...
  While going through catalogs to get an idea on prices of the reluctor,
stator, etc., (which don't exist), I found that the trans. ign. uses a 
different ingition coil. What is the difference between this coil and
the others? Will an aftermarket (eg Mallory Promaster) coil work with it?
Can it be used to trigger a capacitive discharge system (ie. MSD 6A)?
  If I'm able to locate the reluctor, stator, etc., will these parts fit
in my current (single-point) distributor housing? Can I adapt some of
the parts from an HEI unit (eg reluctor and stator)?
  I'm also wondering about the amplifier itself; how reliable are they?
Was this ign system discontinued simply because of cost or were there
other problems? If my amplifier is toast, are the parts available to 
fix it? How can I test the amplifier?
  Does anyone know of any good books/articles covering this system?
None of my manuals say anything of substance about it. I could just
use a tach-drive HEI system; but there are 4 reasons I'm not considering
this: 1) tach-drive HEI is prohibitively expensive  2) While she doesn't
have it now, the car was born with the 3x2 induction system and I don't
think the HEI will fit if I manage to put one back (I know HEI won't fit
with Pontiac tri-power setups)  3) The HEI would look out-of-place in 
a '69  4) It would be real nice to have the ignition the car had when
it was built.
  Any and all information about this type of ignition in stock or modified
form would be greatly appreciated.

	Thanks very much,
	      Dave
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Chevy small block ID???
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 22 Jan 93 22:26:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> I've got a Chevy small block that doesn't have this appendage.  Is
-> there an alternate location for it?  Also, how can I tell I'm not
-> really dealing with a Pontiac?

 Well, they don't look a *anything* alike.

 Oh, you wanted practical help?

 The Pontiac has an aluminum timing cover between the water pump and
block.  There's a water passage sticking out of the cover and into the
intake manifold, sealed with a square O-ring.  The Chevy has a water
pump that stands away from the block on two legs; the timing cover is
stamped sheet metal.

 The Chevy intake manifold is one piece that seals off the entire top of
the engine.  The Pontiac intake manifold is a big piece hanging out in
midair; you can see the sheet metal valley cover underneath it, sealing
the top of the engine.

 Pontiac V8s were available up through '80, though an '81 or two
might've snuck in.  (Some '79-'81s were actually Oldsmobile engines,
just to keep you on your toes)  Anything '82 or later is a Chevy or
Olds.  I'm not sure when Olds finally got the axe.
From: mcostell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Malcolm G. Costello)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Radial tires on old car
Date: 25 Jan 93 21:45:50 GMT
Reply-To: mcostell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Malcolm G. Costello)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.autos.tech, jfarmer@cs.utk.edu (JOHN FARMER) writes:
xA quick question that has prob. been asked at least 1^2**6 times before...
x
xOne of the cars in my driveway is a '71 Plymouth Valiant "Scamp" (Had since
xnew 136k miles...).  The owners manual says that unless the car came orginally
xwith radial tires, one or more suspension pieces need to be changed.  Parts
xplaces don't have any idea about this (neither do most tire places in town...)
xand of course, the dealer don't keep parts/info for such an "old piece of junk"
x("Why don't you _trade_ it in on a new xyxy??")
x
xSeeing how it is increasingly hard to find decent bias-belted tires at a
xfair price, and moviated by the fact that I can count the threads in the
xbelts on the front tires,  I'm going to buy tires *real soon*.
x
xDoes anybody anything about what the owners manual was talking about?  Should
xI just go ahead and get the radials and hope for the best?  Should Harold kiss

Go ahead and buy the radials and don't worry about it. I had a 1971
Plymouth Duster 318-v8 that came with Goodyear E70x14 bias belted tires.
It had steel wheels 14x5.5 and heavy duty suspension. I replaced the
tires with radial Centennial Interceptors ER70x14. They are essentially
Dunlop GT Quallifiers. No problems. Put 40K on them before selling car.
No unusual wear or handling problems.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mack Costello <mcostell@oasys.dt.navy.mil> Code 65.1 (formerly 1720.1)
David Taylor Model Basin, Carderock Division Hq. NSWC    ___/-\____
Bethesda, MD 20084-5000   Phone (301) 227-2431          (__________>|

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
From: jeffd@ex.heurikon.com (Jeff Durst)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Ford Tempo Hesitates/Stalls
Date: 21 Jan 93 01:14:56 GMT
Reply-To: jeffd@heurikon.heurikon.com (Jeff Durst)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Heurikon Corporation, Madison, WI


	I bought a 1991 Ford Tempo GL brand new and back in November
	it started to intermittantly hesistate when warm at stop lights 
	or stops signs.  It is always on acceleration that this occurs.
	It has also stalled three times since December 3.  

	I have had it into the Dealer twice now for this problem, the first
	time they clain to have found a vaccuum leak at the fuel pressure
	regulator and they also cleaned some emissions stuff, the second time
	they said they found the base idle speed was low, so they adjusted it.
	
	I asked them if they really feel they solved the problem, he said 
	no.  I asked where do we go from here, he said basiclif the problem
	happens more frequently so that they can recreate it they will then
	be able to do more for me.  Until that time I'm SOL.

	When I got home from the dealer the #!?/ car stalled when I pulled 
	into the driveway after sitting for a couple of minutes in drive.
	I called the dealer right back and they repeated their position.

	I saw the Ford 800# on TV last night and decided to try it.  The
	guy I talked to said he could not force the dealer to look at the 
	car again until I can produce the problem for the dealer.  It wasn't
	until I threatened that if I was in accident due to the problem
	I would sue FMC that he said he would force the dealer to take another
	look.


 	I told him that I didn't feel that another go around with the dealer
	would solve the problem and want to pursue the matter with FMC
	instead of screwing around with the dealer.  He said the dealer is
	best qualified and has the resources to fix the problem.  I aske
	if there was anyone else I could talk to a FMC and he said no.

	So it sounds as though I'm screwed.

	Does anyone know where I can turn next?  Anyone had a similar problem?
	I am seriously thinking of new Toyota.


	jeffd@heurikon.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ravalent@mothra.syr.EDU (Bob Valentine)
Subject: Re: Help! Water in gastank
Organization: Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 93 19:29:04 EST

In article <1993Jan24.232936.24999@netcom.com> aldridge@netcom.com (Jacquelyn Aldridge) writes:
>	Hi, the mechanic at the garage said I have water in the gastank.
>He said when he pumped the fuel through the pump and into a cup there was 1
>teaspoon of water per cup. 
>	So, what do you all think? Could I put enough methenol (gas
>treatment stuff) to take care of the problem? Is there any other  way to
>take care of it? 
[See Below]
>	After I picked up the car Friday with the new muffler I started
>accross the bay bridge. Notice then I didn't have power enough to get up
>past 35 mph. Got off at treasure island, put one treatment in on the advice
>of the gas station attendent. Filled the tank and tried driving around
>there. The problem got worse untill the car wouldn't go. Paid to tow it
>back and put it in the garage's parking lot. Next day the garage called and
>said they thought it was a serious fuel system problem. Later talking to my
>dad they said there was no rust in the fuel they drew and that they could
>probably take the tank off and drain it. 
>
>	If the tsp/cup of water was for the whole tank then it could be as
>much as a quart of water. But if they are drawing from the bottom maybe
>it's less. 
>
>	But if the water is stopping up the fuel lines, filter, or
>something it might not run anyway. 

    Keeping in mind that you suck fuel from the BOTTOM of the tank,
you might be able to just drain all the fuel from the tank, removing
90% of the water.     Otherwise, I'd first suck all the fuel thru the
line, and then add gas, see how it works.  
    They're a product called "X2 gas drier" that's sold in marine
stores.  I've used it on boats, with much success.  It seems to work
much better than just adding alcohol.  Use this if you can suck all
the fuel out the gas line.
    You didn't mention what kind of car this is, but if it's a import,
most of them have a drain in the tank.  It's usually a plug with a
space for a 1/2" drive rachet, or a 1" plug.  If it has this, the tank
does not need to be dropped.  
    My feeling is that this could be solved just by sucking out all
the gas thru the line, adding a fuel drier chemicle, and driving.
YMMV.

>	Advice please. I need to figure out something and I don't trust
>the garage people much anymore. Could you please post or e-mail
>immediately.
>    
>-jackie-
                      -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                  --> ravalent@mailbox.syr.edu <--
From: al@qiclab.scn.rain.com (Alan Peterman)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Not a bra
Date: 27 Jan 93 19:24:13 GMT
Article-I.D.: qiclab.1993Jan27.192413.1103
Organization: SCN Research/Qic Laboratories of Tigard, Oregon.

In article <C1Gtn3.5yr@ssesco.com> nau@ssesco.com (William Nau) writes:
>Ok, here's my case (may this should be in rec.autos, but I'm here anyway).
>I drive my 1992 Probe into the city every day.  Sand and shit on the road
>gets kicked up and beats the hell out of the front my my car.  I do not
>want to put a bra on the car and I sure don't want to restart that old
>argument about bras.  I am interested in other, possibly less effective,
>methods of protecting the front of my car.  I would like to keep the
>dollar amount at a minimum (eg something that I could do myself).

Well last month I saw the silliest substitute for a "bra"...but I
suppose it works.  The brand new Legacy was dark blue (or black)
and had the front end, the edges around the window, the rocker
panels and the "spray" areas behind the tires all covered...
in masking tape.  He had pulled up at a stop light on the off
ramp from the freeway, and as I got besides him I could clearly
see what the strange stuff all over his car was made of.  As I
pulled away, I realized why he had covered the frontal areas of his
car...or at least I have not come up with any OTHER reason that makes
any sense.

It's cheap, it's doable yourself, and it's UGLY.  It may also pose
some problems when it is removed, and as to it's effectiveness, your
guess is as good as mine.  Me, I'll touch up the rock chips and get
a repaint if necessary at 100K miles..


-- 
Alan L. Peterman                                 (503)-684-1984 hm & work
                       al@qiclab.scn.rain.com
It's odd how as I get older, the days are longer, but the years are shorter!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: neal@cmptrc.lonestar.org (Neal Howard)
Subject: Re: URGENT Camaro info needed (1974 w/ 455cu in)
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 23:32:41 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: CompuTrac Inc., Richardson TX

In article <eric.9@eeco.cba.ufl.edu> eric@eeco.cba.ufl.edu (Eric E.C. Olson) writes:
>
>I'm going to look at a 1974 Camaro tomorrow.  I talked to the guy who's 
>The car originally had a 6-cylinder engine.  The seller has installed a 
>455cid Pontiac engine & TH400 tranny.  He said it's still got the original 
>10 bolt rear end.  Allegedly good interior, new carpet.  Good body - he did 
Did he put in bigger front springs & sway bar ? If not the 6 banger suspension
parts will be worn out in no time, but then all big block F-body gm products
handle like pigs anyway.... no flames please, everyone who has owned one knows
this to be true, but then we owned them for their acceleration, not for their
handling.
>
>I lust for a big block...  but can the rear handle it, or should I start 
>looking for another rear NOW?  Which rear do I want?
If you can keep your foot out of the carb, the rear will last for a little
while, the 10 bolt 6 cyl. rear end isn't the same as the 10 bolt smallblock
V-8 rear end. You'll probably want to find one of those monster 12 bolt big
block rear ends or adapt a Ford 9" rear end.
>
>Oh yeah, and any gotchas with regard to the 455 Pontiac?
The biggest gotcha is the absolutely terrible gas mileage but the raw
acceleration is absolutely wonderful.


-- 
=============================================================================
Neal Howard   '91 XLH-1200      DoD #686      CompuTrac, Inc (Richardson, TX)
	      doh #0000001200
         "Let us learn to dream, gentlemen, and then perhaps
          we shall learn the truth." -- August Kekule' (1890)
=============================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: 1978 Trans Am needs your help!
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 14:56:56 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 Just a note, the 6.6 is 400CID, the 455 is about 7.4L. There probably wasn't
one offered for '78. The only ones I ever recall seeing are earlier - around
'74 maybe - at least as factory options. 
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
From: brodesky@td2cad.intel.com (Michael Brodesky)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Reparing a rear Defroster in a RX7
Date: 21 Jan 93 19:19:38 GMT
Organization: intel corporation



	One of the contacts on the rear defroster has come off. How does
one go about reconnecting it. 


Michael

--
Michael Brodesky Internet Mbrodesky@sc9.Intel.com
UUCP : {pur-ee,qanad,oliveb,decwrl,hplabs}!intelca!mipos3!td2cad!brodesky
During the week I climb left to right. On weekends I climb up and down.
Rootbeer^2 = Beer ?             Were all in it together.
From: scot+@pitt.edu (Scot Catlin)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Help!  Bad mileage.
Date: 28 Jan 93 03:11:51 GMT
Organization: University of Pittsburgh


	I just recently replaced the 2bbl carb on my 1976 Chevy Malibu 
wagon with a 350 engine.  Before the replacement I was getting between 10
and 13 mpg.  Not real good, but I attributed that to the carb. (Frozen choke
plate, all gummed up)

	The timing is right on, and the carb is adjusted to factory specs.  I
took the car to a garage to see if they could find anything, and they said that
the EGR ports (?) might be all choked up with carbon deposits, and that the
air/feul mixture wasn't getting "atomized" before entering the combustion
chambers.  This might not be exactly accurate as I'm pretty new at car maint.
and repair, and the mechanic was talking way over my head.

	Could the problem described above cause a 5-10mpg drop in mileage?
(The car's rated for 15 - 18 mpg, I think)  If not, what could?  Thanks in
advance for your help.  You can reply to me by e-mail or post for all to
benefit from you wisdom.

				Scot
				----

-- 
========================================================
| Scot Catlin				scot+@pitt.edu |
| University of Pittsburgh		scot@pittvms   |
========================================================
From: walkerr@bigwpi.WPI.EDU (Robert A Walker)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Battery isolators
Date: 28 Jan 93 18:44:02 GMT
Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute
NNTP-Posting-Host: bigwpi.wpi.edu


	Question.
          Were can i get a battery isolator so that i can run two differnt
batteries in my truck, I would like one to be solely for auxilary stuff and
my stereo.  What would be the cost of one.  THanx.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: spenser@fudd.jsc.nasa.gov (S. Spenser Aden)
Subject: Re: Jeep stuck, frozen puddle, how to free up?
Organization: Flight Data and Evaluation Office
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 17:25:54 GMT

In article <1993Jan27.053338.15108@spdc.ti.com> serafin@epcot.spdc.ti.com (Mike Serafin) writes:
>In article <1993Jan26.192303.2396@macc.wisc.edu> pburke@vms.macc.wisc.edu (Peter Burke, MIC, 608-263-7744) writes:
>>My friend got himself stuck in a pretty deep puddle two days ago. In the 
>>meantime the puddle has turned to solid ice.  Teh front of the vehicle 
>
>Don't have any real good advice, other than to take lots of pictures and send
>them in to the various 4 wheeling type mags, so they get include in their back
>page caption contests.  I gotta see this.

Yea, and if you do take pictures and can get them digitized and made into
GIFs, post 'em to alt.binaries.pictures.misc ... I think we'd ALL like to see
this (laughing WITH you, of course ... ;-)

-Spenser

-- 
S. Spenser Aden --- Lockheed Engineering and Sciences Co. --- (713) 483-2028
NASA --- Flight Data and Evaluation Office --- Johnson Space Center, Houston
spenser@fudd.jsc.nasa.gov    (Internet) ---  Opinions herein are mine alone.
aden@vf.jsc.nasa.gov (if above bounces) ---  "Eschew obfuscation." - unknown
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bowmanj@csn.org (Jerry Bowman)
Subject: Re: WHAT IS AN A-I-R PUMP ON A CHEVY CAPRICE ENGINE?
Organization: University of Colorado Boulder, OCS
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 17:09:47 GMT

In article <1993Jan22.082111.165610@dstos3.dsto.gov.au> pzh@swan.dsto.gov.au (Paul Heuer) writes:
>mgolden@cwis.unomaha.edu (Brian Golden) writes:
><< stuff deleted>>
>
>>  Or if your state doesn't have an inspection law, and you are not too
>>concerned about being legal, you can just take the damn thing off and
>>get a shorter fan belt, and plug the holes in the exhaust manifold.  You
>>will get a little more power this way, because the engine will not have to
>>turn the AIR compressor.  Either way, it is not terribly difficult.
>>  Option three:  Just disconnect the pully and get a shorter fan belt,
>>so that you can reconnect it come inspection time!
>> 
>>Mike Golden - mgolden@cwis.unomaha.edu
>
>DO NOT JUNK THE AIR PUMP!! 
>The motors that use air pumps here in Oz apparently do not
>react well to having the air pump disconnected. The after-market workshop
>manual for my car (Gregory's brand) warns not to remove the pump or run the 
>motor without the belt even for short periods of time.
>
>I must say, my first reaction to pumping air back into the exhaust ports was
>"what a stupid idea, I'll soon fix this".
>
>Now can anyone tell me *why* the air pump shouldn't be removed??
>
>Cheers,
>Paul Heuer (pzh@aeg.dsto.gov.au)
>-- 
>
>Paul Heuer                                      E-mail : pzh@aeg.dsto.gov.au
>Avionics Technology                             Phone  : +61 8 259 6453
>Air Operations Division                         FAX    : +61 8 259 5507

       The only reason not to remove it is that it  ay be illegal in
    your area, After all it is just an air pump pushing air into your
    exhaust manifolds. If you only take the belt off exhaust can flow
    back into the pump andbuild up carbon deposits. Then when you want
    to reconnect it for an emmissions test it will not turn. 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Steven J Orlin)
Subject: Re: brakes
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 18:40:37 GMT

In article <5tq3w8p@rpi.edu> kokerj@rpi.edu writes:
>In article <44056@sdcc12.ucsd.edu>, wsun@jeeves.ucsd.edu (Fiberman) writes:
>|> I just had the front brakes of my '84 Celica done - new pads and
>|> resurfaced rotor.  The car brakes fine at low speed.  However,
>|> when I am on the highway at 55+ mph, the car vibrates when I
>|> brake.  At 60 mph it vibrates at about 2-4 Hz.   Can anyone give
>|> an explanation for this?
>|>
>|> -fm
>|>
>
>Sounds like a warped rotor to me.

possibly the bearings need to be replaced in that one rotor.
Also, many goofs operate brake lathes and don't set up the rotor
right on it.  therefore, they may have somewhat 'trued it' but it
may have been trued off the perpendicular surface.
-- 
"Chicks with bricks come, chicks with blocks come, chicks with bricks and 
blocks and clocks come."
Orlin.2@osu.edu                   -Dr. Seuss