HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: rorem@bert.eecs.uic.edu (Doug Rorem)
Subject: Re: starting and running a diesel rabbit in winter
Organization: University of Illinois at Chicago
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 23:53:29 GMT

barr@tramp.Colorado.EDU (BARR DOUG) writes:

>I own a diesel rabbit, 1979, with a add-on turbo. It works OK but is
>hard to start (getting harder as it gets colder) and smokes quite a bit.
>Any suggestions on how to improve starting and reduce smoking?
>
 First, make sure all your glow plugs are OK.  This is tricky to do
without a clamp-on ammeter (slow glow plugs draw about 9 amps apiece
steady-state).  Without a clamp-on ammeter, you pretty much have
to remove the bus bar to the glow plugs and test each one individually.

 Also, my rabbit actually cranks and starts better with the cold
start knob pushed in. As soon as it starts, I pull it out so it
runs smoother.  I believe the engine is timed correctly, so I can't
really explain why this works but it does.  Has anyone else experienced
this phenonmena??

Doug Rorem
UIC     rorem@bert.eecs.uic.edu
From: jdonsbac@cvbnet.prime.com (Jeff Donsbach)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Castrol Syntec & Mobil 1 Question
Date: 12 Nov 92 23:59:08 GMT
Organization: Computervision, Bedford MA

Conventional oil wisdom (from every source I've read) says that oils with 
such a wide viscosity range usually break down more quickly. I'm not
sure how that applies to these new generation synthetics like the Castrol
(and the new Quaker State).

Me, I've always used various viscosities of Mobil 1, depending on the
season. I'm using 10W-30 now and did all this summer too (since the weather
was cooler than normal here). I'll probably go to the 5w-30 when it
gets a little colder. I used the 15W-50 the summer before last. I don't think
I would trust the wide 5W-50 range in the new Castrol. But that's just me,
and I can't give any tangible reason why other than gut feeling. I'll stick to
what has worked for me......

-Jeff

p.s. For Mobil 1, the bottle says that even the 15W-50 flows down to about
     -22F! I wouldn't want to try it, but heh.....

-- 
=========================
Jeff Donsbach, Computervision Corp, 14 Crosby Dr. MS 5-2, Bedford, MA 01730
UUCP: {decvax|linus|sun}!cvbnet!jdonsbac | Internet: jdonsbac@cvbnet.prime.com
"10 bucks is 10 bucks" - Geddy Lee                       (soon to be CV.Com ??)
From: bjgaed@bb1t.monsanto.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Starved for fuel
Date: 4 Nov 92 07:00:08 CST
Organization: Monsanto Company, St. Louis, MO

In article <2NOV199219043373@cc.utah.edu>, mgb5528@cc.utah.edu (Beck, Michael Gregory) writes:
>     This might be a real easy one for all of you experts.

Huh?  Who just logged in?  Ain't nobody out here but us 
knucklebusters.  8{)

> I can't seem to get 
> my Bug to run.  

*Really???*  8{)  8{)

> I crank it incessently, it catches and then quits.  I can get 
> it to idle every once in a while, but when I go to push on the gas it dies.  It 
> seems to me that the engine is starved for gas.  What are the first thing that 
> I should look for?  I looked in the engine compartment and the fuel filter is 
> really filthy dirty inside.  Is that my problem??

Could be.  Certainly cheap to check, just get a compatible (with the 
right size tubes on the ends) filter and stick it in (with the arrow 
pointing in the right direction).  If that doesn't fix it you needed 
one anyway.  

While you have the tubes off check the fuel pump.  Lead the pump 
outlet via a piece of tubing *away* from the engine and crank it over 
with the starter.  You should get a spurt of gas out of the hose every 
other time the engine turns one revolution.  (Fuel pump runs of a cam 
on the distributor driveshaft.)  There is a spec for fuel pump output. 
You need a graduated cylinder to measure the gas.  BE CAREFUL NOT TO 
SPRAY GAS AROUND THE ENGINE (OR BATTERY, YOU BUS & GHIA PEOPLE.)

If neither of these are the problem, try rebuilding the carb.  Could 
be a bad float valve either not letting fuel in, or not closing and 
dumping so much gas in you are fouling the plugs, or a bad float that 
won't close the valve, or a plugged jet, or a bad accelerator pump, or 
...  You can do the rebuild and gross cleaning yourself, but take the 
body and top in to a mechanic for a professional cleaning.  Won't cost 
much and will save you a *lot* of frustration.

I assume that timing, dwell, spark, spark plug wires, spark plugs, 
coil, distributor cap, rotor, condenser, points, vac. advance, 
compression, etc. are all O.K., right?  
Any one of these can cause this problem, like maybe the engine 
is trying to run on only two cylinders?

Get out your Idiot manual and run the complete diagnostics from the 
chapter "Volkswagen Stops or Won't Start".  Many the time I have been 
unable to start a VW or had intermittent problems like this, and only 
found the answer when I went through this step-by-step.  It has 
*never* failed me to find the problem eventually, and it has been one 
or more of the above each time.  The only time it hasn't been 
straightforward was when I had *two* things screw up at once.  Had to 
go through the procedure *twice* fixing one thing each time. 

> Thanks for your assistance
> Cheers!!
> Michael Beck
> 

Good luck!

-- 
--Electric Monk            (Bruce Gaede); 
                            e-mail: bjgaed@ccmail.monsanto.com

"...and then time started seriously to pass."
--Douglas Adams, _Dirk Gently's Holistic Detective Agency_
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: tgpt_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Tom Guptill)
Subject: shifter linkage bushings / prices?
Organization: University of Rochester Department of Diesel Volkswagens
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 92 19:27:17 GMT

	Does anyone out there know approximately how much a (US) VW dealer
will charge for shifter linkage bushings / adjustment (installed)?  My car
is getting more and more difficult to drive, and while it doesn't bother me
all that much (I know how to get into first by pressing down on the shift
lever and going toward reverse) it's a real pain when someone else has to
drive it.  If anyone could give me some idea of a price I'd really
appreciate it.  (BTW: It's an '82 Rabbit w/ a 5 speed)

-- 
|Tom Guptill           | tgpt_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu  (internet)  |
|CPU Box 277445 U of R |  "    " @db1.cc.rochester.edu (alt internet) |
|Rochester, NY 14627   |  "    " @uordbv (bitnet)                     |
|(716) 274-0156        | (if mail to uhura fails, try db1 or uordbv)  |
From: keys@starchild.ncsl.nist.gov (Lawrence B. Keys)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Castrol Syntec & Mobil 1 Question
Date: 6 Nov 92 20:18:05 GMT
Organization: National Institute of Standards & Technology

In article <92308.154343UD180274@NDSUVM1.BITNET> UD180274@NDSUVM1.BITNET (Roger A. Huggins) writes:
>I am trying to decide between Mobil-1 (5W30) and the new Castrol
>Syntec (5W50) for the winter in my '79 Rabbit (176k miles, original
>engine.)  I need the low viscosity so the car will start when it's
>-40 degrees, but I'm concerned with the high temp viscosity.  I
>have used Mobil-1 in the past with no complaints, but have had
>absolutely no experience with the new Castrol.
>
>Has anyone had any experience with the Castrol Syntec?  All
>comments and suggestions greatfully received!  Thank you!
>
>Roger


I use the Mobil-1, and i have been very satisfied with it, however,
when i heard about the Castrol i thought that i would give it a try.
When the time came to change my oil, i found out that the Castrol
actually cost more than the Mobil-1 (Castrol $3.99, Mobil $3.48).

I'll stick with Mobil-1.


                                                   .              
                                                 /                
Larry                            __/    ______ /                  
keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov       /                \                 
                         _ _ _      __      _____  \------- ===   
            ---------- /  __ /    /  /    /__  __/            \   
         /            /  / ____  /  /       / /                |  
        |            / /___/  / /  /__   __/ /__              /   
        /_____       \______/  /_____ / /______/        --- ////   
             \_____           2 liter 16v       \_______/         
                                                                              
        Fahrvergnugen forever!
From: eliot@lanmola.engr.washington.edu (eliot)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: European spec Corrado VR6
Date: 8 Nov 92 07:30:35 GMT
Article-I.D.: engr.Nov08.073022.18592
Organization: clearer than blir

In article <1di080INNql9@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer) writes:
>>I have read that the European spec Corrado carries a larger 2.9l engine
>>instead of a 2.8l engine as in the States.  What major differences are
>>there between these tow engines?  Are they significant?  Is the European
>>spec VR6 rated at 190 horsepwoer instead of 178hp?

i think the only difference is the displacement and the bhp, both of which
you quote correctly.

> Also, is this car reliable?

stay tuned and read the net reports... i think the new gear linkage may
be an achilles heel, because i've seen someone report it here and also
read about it in CAR.

>rather than an answer, 
>i have another question which would be nicely answered
>right alongside..what parts do the new v6's share with the old fours??

in a word, none.  go look at audi's 2.8 V6, and you'll find lots of
common parts.  ironic, eh?


eliot
From: milo@dorm.rutgers.edu (james mielo)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Performance Mods
Date: 7 Nov 92 00:45:41 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.vw
Organization: rutgers university


       I own a '90 GTi 8V.  My car is starting to feel a little slow. The
0-60 times are in the mid 9's. I've added a leistritz exhaust and K&N
airfilter with split fire plugs. The exhaust gave only a slight gain. The
plugs were incredible. The problem is my cars weight. As my modifications
have expanded so has my stereo. Also, I added dynamat sound deadning
material and now the car feels a little sluggish. This creates problems
with suspension and breaking( stopping). To offset the weight I've added
the vented rotors to the front. I've also added an upper strut tie
bar(front) to help rigidity. 
     I really want to try the Jacobs ignition but no one can tell me
anything about it. I'm looking for easy external engine mods. I don't want
to go for a cam yet. I was wondering if any one has done any little changes
that made a difference. Also, anyone do any suspension mods. I was looking
into springs/ shock package or antiroll bars(swaybars as some might call
them). It's either one or the other. Please note, the 50lb box and speakers
in the trunk make my car sag back a little so I was leaning (no pun
intended) towards the springs.
I've already changed tires.

           In summary, if you made a modification, I would appreciate
hearing from you. Just Email me. Please include your make and model and
year, this way I can tell how much of an increase you got from stock and
what I should expect for my car. Also, if you have any questions about what
I have done feel free to write.



James Mielo
Rutgers College of Pharmacy '94
milo@dorm.rutgers.edu
From: ti@bazooka.amb.org (Ti Kan)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: exhaust manifold confusion
Date: 5 Nov 92 08:08:27 GMT
Reply-To: ti@bazooka.UUCP (Ti Kan)
Distribution: na
Organization: AMB Research Labs, Sunnyvale, CA.

In article <1992Nov4.193016.10683@wuecl.wustl.edu> christos@wucs1.wustl.edu (Christos Papadopoulos) writes:
>Hi everyone!
>	I am confused about the exhaust manifold upgrade on '84 GTI/GLI engines
>(code JH). The catalog I got from Techtonics said that the single outlet exhaust
>manifold on these engines is the worst produced by VW and a switch to the US or
>EURO GTI manifold is highly recomended. Recently I got the catalog from Autotech
>and they show the single outlet manifold (designated the later european GTI manifold)
>as the best for these engines! (the reason being that it offers the same advandages
>as the dual manifold but is more durable since clamps are used to hold the downpipe)

The single outlet manifold as found on the 84 GTI (A1 chassis) is not the
same as the ones on the newer versions as found on the A2 chassis cars.
The 84 version is indeed very bad.  If you have one of these then some
easy horsepower gain can be had by going with the later manifolds and
matching downpipe (whether twin-tube or the newer, bigger single tube).
The new-style single-outlet manifold is supposed to flow just as well
as the dual outlet, although the dual outlet manifold should theoretically
provide slightly better torque due to the 4-into-2-into-1 coonfiguration
rather than simply 4-into-1.

As to longevity, if you have good motor mounts I don't think you need
to worry about the manifold or the downpipe breaking.

-Ti
-- 
    ///  Ti Kan                vorsprung durch technik
   ///   AMB Research Laboratories, Sunnyvale, CA. USA
  ///    ti@amb.org
 //////  ...!{decwrl,synopsys,tandem,tsoft,ultra}!sgiblab!bazooka!ti
///      ...!{uunet,sun,apple,sco}!altos!bazooka!ti
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Re: Gauges
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 23:46:46 GMT

In article <1992Nov6.170104.13205@vestek.com>, don@vestek.com (Don Labutay) writes:
|> I just got these gauges from a vw swap meet but it didn't have any instructions
|> for it. Can any of you VW'ers tell me where the best place to connect them.

Not sure which car you're going to put them on.  It's quite a bit harder on the
old air-cooled rear-engine cars due to the length of wire needed.

|>  ammeter 

Ideally you want this connected between the battery and both the loads and alternator
so that you can tell whether you are charging/discharging the battery.  Unfortunately,
both the alternator and the main battery circuit go straight to the battery on the
water-cooled cars.  You would need to break the connection of both and insert some
long wires to the gage.  This adds a fair amount of resistance (unless you are
using welding cable) which will drop the voltage available to your system under
heavy loads (like A/C or headlamps).  I find an ammeter to be more trouble than it's
worth to install correctly and would rather have two voltmeters.

|>  voltmeter

The best point to connect to is right across the battery.  The only problem with this
is that it will drain your battery with the ignition off!  Next best point is connect
the positive terminal to the switched side of the ignition key as close to the
switch as possible (this is circuit 15).  Connect the negative side to the ground strap
at the battery. Any size wire is alright since the gage draws very small currents.
Connecting the gage across other points (like at the radio or other dash components)
will give rapidly changing results as different loads come on and off and cause
voltage drops throughout the system.  Also this more remote points will give a 
lower average reading.   And ideal situation would be a voltmeter connected to the
switched 15 circuit at the fuse box; and another one connected directly to the battery
through a relay that is energized by the 15 circuit.  The battery voltage will give a 
good indication of charging behavior.  The fuse box voltage will give a good indication
of general electrical system degradation with age.

|>  tachometer (only three wires)

This is the easiest.  Positive power lead to circuit 15 (switched ignition line)
at the fuse box (after a fuse - say radio), negative lead to ground, and the signal
lead goes to the switched side of the ignition coil (circuit 1).

The nice thing about German cars is that they all conform to the standard German
circuit labeling conventions which you can find in the Bosch Handbook.  Circuit
15 is the same on all cars, etc.

Mark
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: kpjone01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu
Subject: Re: Boge TurboGas Rear Shock ALERT!
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 16:09:52 GMT
Organization: University of Louisville



My VW did the exact same thing.  The only problem I had was that the 
clip decided to come off when I was doing 70 around a turn on the 
expressway.  NOT good.  The shock shaft pushed my back deck right
off of it's mountings.  Luckily the deck was loose from my installation
so it did not do much damage.  I only put the nuts on the bolt just 
enough to hold the deck together. That way I could make any adjustments
if necessary (and it was.)  Either way, I still think those puny c-clips
are a sign of bad engineering.  My solution was to put the clip back in
it's place and everything has worked out very well.  It is holding up
nicely to my occational 3-wheeled turns.  I will probably get new
shocks soon though as my current set must be filled with jello and made
from sponges from the way it feels.
 
Kevin

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Kevin Jones                                   KPJONE01@ULKYVX.CT.LOUISVILLE.EDU
Lab Supervisor                                KPJONE01@ULKYVX.LOUISVILLE.EDU
Computing and Telecommunications              PHONE:  502-588-6303
University of Louisville, KY                  FAX:    502-588-0150

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
From: mferdows@aludra.usc.edu (Mehrzad Ferdows)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Gti Starting
Date: 10 Nov 1992 00:26:03 -0800
Organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA
NNTP-Posting-Host: aludra.usc.edu



	I'm not much of a mechanic, but I have a quick question:
	My friend has a GTi 8v and when he wants to start his car, as
	soon as he turns his ignition, the car starts, but on my
	Gti 16v, it takes the car a little while longer to start.
	is this a problem I should check out, or is it just because
	of the different engines? appreciate any help, thanx.
From: msirota@ee.rochester.edu (Mark Sirota)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Koni's for Sale for Golf GTI
Date: 10 Nov 92 23:09:02 GMT
Reply-To: Mark Sirota <msirota@socrates.ee.rochester.edu>
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Rochester Department of Electrical Engineering

In article <milo-071192122413@mielo.dorm.rutgers.edu> milo@dorm.rutgers.edu (james mielo) writes:
> In article <1chlftINN2at@itude.hal.COM>, max@hal.COM (Harry Max) wrote:
>> They are the Sport model not the racing model;
>> that is, stiff but not too stiff.  And they are 
>> in near mint condition.  
>
> I was interested in upgrading my shocks and springs.
> I was wondering what you mean by too stiff. Also, are these the adjustable
> Konis or just regular ones.
> If they are adjustable are they still too stiff on the softest setting
> Final question, did they improve your handling any.

Koni's are available in three levels:
	Standard Red
	Sport Yellow
	Sport SS (Showroom Stock)

I assume Harry's are the middle, Sport Yellow model.  The part number ends
in S, and the shocks are yellow in color.

In answer to James's question, all Konis are adjustable.  For VW's, the
fronts are all externally adjustable (turn a knob on the top).  Some of the
rears are externally adjustable, while others need to be removed and twisted.

The Sport Yellows are almost certainly stiffer than stock even on the
softest setting, but I can't be sure.  In any case, they will *definitely*
improve the handling, at the expensive of the ride.

Hope that helps.
-- 
Mark Sirota - Systems Staff, College of Engineering and Applied Science
University of Rochester, Rochester NY
 Internet: msirota@ee.rochester.edu
 UUCP:     rutgers!ur-valhalla!msirota
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: bernie@metapro.DIALix.oz.au (Bernd Felsche)
Subject: Re: VW's in America we don't see in Europe...
Organization: MetaPro Systems, Perth, Western Australia
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 92 09:58:01 GMT

In <1992Nov1.202648.1@ulkyvx.louisville.edu>
   pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu writes:

>In article <1992Oct31.113358.24513@metapro.DIALix.oz.au>,
> bernie@metapro.DIALix.oz.au (Bernd Felsche) writes:
>>>	Doesn't anyone else think that the Fox wagon looks almost *exactly*
>>>like an old Dasher wagon?  (For you VW newbies, the Dasher was a car

>> The pictures I've seen show a strong resemblance to what
>> you'd call a "Dasher". We in the civilised world :-) would
>> call it an early Passat. I guess that it might have
>> inherited some parts like the windscreen.

>VW imported the Passat as the Dasher ie  Dasher == Passat

>civilised ?

Yep. They didn't have to change the name of the model to get
it selling here. Same for the A1 Golf aka Rabbit.
-- 
+-----+ Bernd Felsche                     _--_|\  #include <std/disclaimer.h>
| | | | MetaPro Systems Pty Ltd          /      \ bernie@metapro.DIALix.oz.au
| | | | 328 Albany Highway,              X_.--._/         Fax: +61 9 472 3337
|m|p|s| Victoria Park, Western Australia 6100  v        Phone: +61 9 362 9355
From: jdouglas@MITRE.org (Jason Douglas)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: WANTED: Tire advice for VW camper
Date: 13 Nov 92 20:06:08 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: The MITRE Corporation

In article <1992Nov13.162824.20047@ultra.com> wayne@ultra.com (Wayne 
Hathaway) writes:
> We have an '85 VW camper that is in dire need of new tires.  We like
> Michelins, but the tire stores say the 185R14 size that we need is
> backordered nationally.  So we are in the market for various forms of
> advice:
> 
> 1) One store recommended going up to the 195 size.  Will this work?
>    Are there any disadvantages?
> 
> 2) Are Sears tires still made by Michelin, and would they be okay?
> 
> 3) Does anybody have any other brands they'd like to recommend?

1. My reputable tire dealer says the 195 will work fine.  
2.  Make sure that whatever you buy, it can carry the load.  Vanagons are 
HEAVY and the recommended difference between front and rear inflation 
pressures is considered essential for safe handling.  (Many dealers here 
in No. Virginia wanted to sell car tires).  The vanagon requires LOAD 
RANGE C tires both for the weight and for proper inflation (car tires wont 
take the recommended pressures).
3.  One alternative to Michelin is Continental.  Probably any high quality 
light truck tire is ok if you can find them in this small a size.  Note 
that there are Michelin alternatives to the XZX.  My next set will be XCH4 
LT - tires intended for light trucks but recommended by a Michelin rep (at 
their 800 number) if you want all season tires.  Note that Michelin also 
makes XCH4 (without the "LT" designation) that are load range B and are 
not suitable.