HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jay@metran.UUCP (Jay Ts)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: media permanence (was Re: photo-developing, specifically nudes)
Date: 21 Aug 92 03:53:08 GMT
Organization: Metran Technology, Tampa, Florida

: With digital media there is virtually no degradation sort of destruction
: of the actual media itself.

It seems to me that there is no such thing as "digital media".  The storage
media are generally made of of real matter such as plastic, aluminum, paper
and ferric oxide.  As far as the physics of this stuff is concerned, it is
more mathematical or maybe statistical in nature than analog or digital.

So, the media on which digital information is encoded *does* degrade.
A while back I was reading in rec.audio that if you play an audio CD
for about 24 hours, it will lose data to the point of the loss becoming
clearly audible.  I think it had something to do with the centripetal
force of spinning on the aluminum.  I don't really remember.

It is tempting to think of digital technology as being "perfect".
Really, it can be no more perfect than the physical reality it is
based on, which is by nature imperfect.  Nothing lasts forever.

Jay Ts
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: ka1gt@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (robert.m.atkins)
Subject: Re: Cannon's 75-300 Zoom lens experiences?
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 22:40:56 GMT

In article <1992Aug13.150901.1@cbrown.claremont.edu>, lchen@cbrown.claremont.edu writes:
> HI,
> 
> 	Does anyone have any experience with Cannon's 75-300mm f/4.0-5.6 zoom
> lens for the Eos?  I am thinking about getting one, and I would appreciate any
> input from the network.  I would also appreciate suggestions for alternate
> lens.  I saw this particular zoom lens for $230 (seems pretty cheap), and just
> wanted to know how this measures up in quality.  Thanks.

Not a bad lens at all for the price ($185 from B&H). I've used it and was
quite pleased with the results. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it as a good
"budget" lens. It was tested in Popular Photography a few months ago I think.
The 100-300 USM from Canon is also very good (quieter and faster focusing
than the 75-300) if the extra $80 or so is in your budget and you don't mind
loosing the 75-100 range. 

===============================================================
Bob Atkins  AT&T Bell Labs  email (direct)  att!clockwise!rma
===============================================================
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Lithium Type 76 batt. - any?
From: fred-mckenzie@ksc.nasa.gov (Fred McKenzie)
Date: 18 Aug 92 14:56:33 EST
Followup-To: rec.photo
Distribution: usa
Organization: NASA/Kennedy Space Center, Florida

In article <7850@lee.SEAS.UCLA.EDU>, dchien@boole.seas.ucla.edu (David H.
Chien) wrote:
>      I'm looking for a longer lasting Type 76 button battery.  I'm using silver
> oxides now, but my camera eats them up like Apple Jacks.  Are there lithium
> replacements available?

david-

Is there something wrong with your camera to eat the batteries so quickly? 
If so, a lithium replacement may not do any better.

The problem replacing the #76 cell, is that the chemistry used in the
common lithium cell, produces a voltage of about 3 volts.  A #76 silver
oxide cell produces a voltage of 1.5 volts.

There is a fairly common 3 volt lithium battery that occupies the space of
two #76 cells, sold by Mallory as the "DL1/3N".  It fits many cameras that
normally use two cells, and is recommended in some owners manuals. 
However, some cameras do not perform properly with lithium.  For example,
the Olympus OM-4 doesn't like them, but the OM-10 seems to work OK.

I've seen the DL1/3N in K-Mart's camera department, but haven't looked for
them recently.

fred-mckenzie@ksc.nasa.gov
From: jack@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk (Jack Campin)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Photography in low light?
Date: 20 Aug 92 13:04:30 GMT
Reply-To: jack@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk (Jack Campin)
Organization: COMANDOS Project, Glesga Yoonie

fsjfz@acad3.alaska.edu wrote:
> gsnow@clark.edu (Gary Snow) writes:
>>>  THis summer, either Pop. Photo or Petersens
>>> Photo. had an article that mentioned T-MAX P3200 rated at EI25000 for
>>> surveillance work.
>> I remember reading that, and I also remember thinking to myself, "How is it
>> possible to rate a film so high".  I didn't think the ISO "standard" went
>> that high?
> it's been a while since i've looked at the insert that comes with P3200, but
> i believe that processing instructions from Kodak are included up to EI12500

I've seen some published pictures by someone doing a photojournalistic
piece about London strip clubs.  He was using TMZ at 50000.  The result
looked like something shot off a TV screen.  If you do this, learn from
one of his experiences: it is not a good idea to let a peepshow bouncer
see you using a Lunasix 3.

Bill Brandt did a series of pictures in the tube shelters of London during
WW2 bombing raids.  He processed the film by desensitization and periodic
inspection; when he saw (after a couple of hours of development) that
something seemed to be appearing, he went off to stay with his mother for
the night and took the film out of the developer in the morning.  The result
was extreme high-contrast images like you'd get with lith development.  I
don't recall him saying what the materials were - presumably HP3 and some
high-energy developer.

-- 
--  Jack Campin    room G092, Computing Science Department, Glasgow University,
17 Lilybank Gardens, Glasgow G12 8RZ, Scotland   TEL: 041 339 8855 x6854 (work)
INTERNET: jack@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk or via nsfnet-relay.ac.uk    FAX: 041 330 4913
BANG!net: via mcsun and uknet     BITNET: via UKACRL    UUCP: jack@glasgow.uucp
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: lchen@cbrown.claremont.edu
Subject: Cannon's 75-300 Zoom lens experiences?
Organization: Harvey Mudd College
Date: 13 Aug 92 15:09:01 PDT

HI,

	Does anyone have any experience with Cannon's 75-300mm f/4.0-5.6 zoom
lens for the Eos?  I am thinking about getting one, and I would appreciate any
input from the network.  I would also appreciate suggestions for alternate
lens.   I saw this particular zoom lens for $230 (seems pretty cheap), and just
wanted to know how this measures up in quality.  Thanks.

	Luke

	Please respond to lchen@hmcvax.claremont.edu
From: bc@Apple.COM (bill coderre)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: B+W Fiber vs. RC paper
Date: 21 Aug 92 21:13:21 GMT
Organization: Apple Computer Inc, Cupertino, CA

Michael C Adler:
|Why do "real" B+W printers choose fiber based paper over RC?

|Most of my printing experience is with Ilford Multrigrade III RC.
|It is exceptionally easy to process, variable contrast makes it easy
|for me to stock all grades of paper and I'm happy with the paper's
|deep blacks and bright whites.

Up until very recently, resin coated papers did not give nearly as
deep a saturated black as fiber papers. Fiber papers also came in
"super white" bases that were much brighter than RC.

This might have changed recently. In addition, if you are satisfied
with the results of your RC paper, why switch?

If you are in the mood to try some fiber papers, by all means do it.
Most photo stores that sell b/w paper will sell small amount or
"sample" packs.

I'd give a quick try to Kodak's Polycontrast Rapid, which is a workday
paper which can produce great prints, and something top-of-the-line
like Oriental Seagull or Zone VI paper.

I found that for newspaper work, RC was the way to go, since it was
dry in 5 minutes, and the quality was "good enough." I also used it
for bulk orders of snapshot-like pictures, since it's easier to clean
if someone spills something on it.

But for my display prints, especially the ones with deep blacks, I
found fiber paper, drum dried to a super high gloss, to be the way to
go. It was a lot more work, but the results were clearly obvious, even
to my Mom.

mr HEINOUS
concentrating on finding a good used Rollei.
Newsgroups: rec.photo,alt.models
From: gold@imp.sim.es.com (Bruce Gold)
Subject: Re: looking for information on pinhole photography.
Keywords: pinhole lens
Reply-To: gold@imp.sim.es.com (Bruce Gold)
Organization: Evans & Sutherland Computer Corp., Salt Lake City, UT
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 18:03:21 GMT

When I was a little kid, the local public library had a book titled, 
"The Boy's Book of Photography."  This was one of a dandy series, all entitled 
"The Boy's Book of (something or other)"  That book included an entire chapter 
describing the workings of a pinhole lens and explaining how to make a pinhole 
camera for 4x5 cut film.  Given the expected the reader, the explanation was 
detailed, clear and unpretentious.  Unfortunately, when I checked back at the 
library recently, the book was no longer on the shelf.  I would guess that it was 
published at least 50 years ago.
-- 
Bruce Gold gold@velara.sim.es.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: rao@ccu.umanitoba.ca (Govindaraju Rao)
Subject: Re: Enlarger vs. Slide Projector
Organization: University of Manitoba, Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 21:24:52 GMT

Donl Mathis writes:
> Could you have found a way to say this without being so nasty?  This
> is rec.photo, not alt.bad.attitude.

Darrell writes:
>>  My apologies if it came across that way.  It was an attempt at humor 
>> that failed, I guess.

   I read very few newsgroups. However, my friends who subscribe
   to many newsgroups, often deplore the callous/inconsiderate/
   boorish/downright-insulting attitude that netters on some
   other newsgroups exhibit. At such times I ALWAYS proclaim
   that rec.photo is wonderfully/refreshingly different. (Vive
   la difference !!!....my French is subject to correction.
   
   Here is another example of this difference ...mild rebuke/
   instant apology.
  
   I hope rec.photo never loses this trait. AMEN ! 
   
   G.S.K. Rao  (rao@ccm.umanitoba.ca), (rao@ccu.umanitoba.ca)
From: sala8864@hgc.edu (gustavo salas)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Racial remarks (was: Cambridge)
Date: 19 Aug 92 18:03:25 GMT
Organization: The Hartford Graduate Center

In article <1992Aug18.161110.15502@fig.citib.com> glp@fig.citib.com (Greg Parkinson) writes:
>
>In article <1992Aug17.210235.16930@adobe.com>, usenet@adobe.com (USENET NEWS) writes:
>|> | As a matter of fact, they are Jewish...
>|> 
>|> 		-Gustavo Salas
>|> 
>|> There are scum-bags as well as honorable people in every culture.
>|> To deliberately point out the nationality or religion of a
>|> particular scum-bag is, in my opinion, racially motivated and
>|> should have no place in civilized discussion.
>
>I'd like to assume that this comment was in response to
>someone mentioning the "eastern european" accent.
>
>Almost *all* the photo stores in NYC are owned and
>run by Jews, often Hassidim.  I think there is a cultural
>element in what some people perceive as rudeness, but
>it's important to point out that all the people who have
>waited on me at B&H have been Hassidim and they have been
>helpful and friendly.
>-- 
>Greg Parkinson                  Phone: 212-657-7814  Fax: 212-825-8607
>Citibank,111 Wall Street        E-Mail: glp@fig.citib.com
>New York, New York  10043
>The opinions expressed are my own and not those of the big 'ol bank.


Thank you Greg. Yes, my comment was an answer to someone's question.
I am not a racist and I am happy doing business with B&H (Read my 
posting on this matter) and I didn't even know it is owned by Hassidim.
From: hikita@trl.mei.co.jp (Hiroyuki Hikita)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Second puzzle with Rollei 35S, Rewinding
Date: 19 Aug 92 06:58:04 GMT
Organization: Matsushita Tokyo Research Laboratory

hsong@ardour.bellcore.com (G. Hugh Song) writes:
>Alas, where is the sprocket release button?  

The lever next to the finder that looks like

      +---------------
      | +-----+__  
      | |     |0|   <----- this.
      | +-----+"/ 
      |        ~

-- 
# hikita@trl.mei.co.jp ( Hiroyuki Hikita )
# Tokyo Information and Communications Research Laboratory
# Matsusita Electric Industrial Co.Ltd.
# +81-44-911-6351
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: dougm@c3177208.ssr.hp.com (Doug Maukonen)
Subject: Re: Choosing enlarger/lens combo
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 15:12:46 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Orlando Fl.
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1scd1 PL4

Another thing to consider is tiltable lens-stage/negative-stage.
Very few enlargers out there these days have this feature.  I would
reccommend looking at the Besseler 23C.  As to lens, I have been 
pleased with the el-nikkor line(but then, I am a Nikon bigot ;).
Doug.
From: zlsiida@fs1.mcc.ac.uk (dave budd)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: crossword clue really annoying me
Date: 12 Aug 92 10:59:50 GMT
Organization: Manchester Computing Centre
Originator: netnews@uts.mcc.ac.uk

1. Fish, photographer (6) 
7. Divided agricultural area or add-on lens (5-5)

   + 
  +++I+F+E+D            1. is the down clue
   +                    7. is the across clue 
   A
   +
   T

All I can think of for 7 is SPLITFIELD but then I can't get anything that 
makes sense for 1.

Grrrrr

+---------------------------------------------------------------------+
|  The trouble with having an open mind is that people come along and |
|  put things in it.   {attribution? I nicked it from Readers Digest} |
|  Dave Budd, MCC, Oxford Rd, Manchester, England   (44)061-275-6033  |
+---------------------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: otto@meaddata.com (Otto Burgess)
Subject: Darkroom sinks and all that stuff
Organization: Mead Data Central, Dayton OH
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 20:42:05 GMT
Distribution: usa

For those of you interested.  In an attempt to build my darkroom, I was forced to have a large sink built by a local fabrication shop.  After researching materials used in photographic processes, and obtaining a booklet from Kodak on the subject, I decided that High Density Polyethelene (HDPE) is the best substance to use.  Yes, it is even better than type 316 LC stainless steel!  My sink is 130 inches long, 33 inches wide, and 7 inches deep.  It also has a 12 inch back splash.  The HDPE is 3/8 inch, but i

t is too flexable to stand on its own.  I am building a full support stand for it.

I am getting closer to the darkroom I want.  But I am undecided on the enlarger, and that is the next step.  I know this question goes out often, but at a cost of $1000-$4000, I do not want to make a mistake.  I will be getting either the Saunders LPL 4500II, or the Bessler 45 VXL.  Any input from experience, or otherwise, would be of help.  Thanks in advance.

-- 
|Otto Burgess
|(513) 865 - 1024    
|Mead Data Central   
|P.O. Box 933        
|Dayton, Ohio  45401 
| 
|otto@meaddata.com
From: mvolo@ecsvax.uncecs.edu (Michael R. Volow)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Ground glass for 35mm film planes
Keywords: ground glass
Date: 19 Aug 92 04:03:55 GMT
Organization: UNC Educational Computing Service


I'm looking on a source for ground glass to use at the film plane
of non-reflex 35mm's. I would use it for checking the vignetting of
home-made sun shades, testing for lens flare, etc. I would hold the
shutter open with a locking cable release and hold the glass in place
on the film rails with tape.

Any suggestions as to sources for ground glass for this? Would matte
acetate from a drafting supply work for this?

Thanks in advance.
-- 
Michael Volow, Psychiatry, Durham VA Med Center, Durham NC 27712
919 286 0411 Ext 6933               mvolo@uncecs.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: acs@csri.toronto.edu (Alvin Chia-Hua Shih)
Subject: Re: REPOST: AF Camera feature list
Date: 20 Aug 92 12:25:56 GMT

In <1992Aug19.203958.3428@fig.citib.com> ghica@fig.citib.com (Renato [Titanium Cranium] Ghica) writes:

>All five nikons are listed as having "FULL manual mode".
>It was my uinderstanding that you cannot take pictures with the 8008s
>if the batteries are dead. Is this not true?

"Manual mode" just means you can set the aperture/shutter combination to be
anything you want (as opposed to the camera *insisting* on picking exposure).

You are right in that the 8008s will not do anything if the batteries are
dead.

ACS
-- 
 ___ ___ ___ ______________________________________________________________
|   |   | __|      Democracy is not a way of getting better solutions.     |
| - | --|__ |           It's just a way to spread the blame.               |
|_|_|___|___|______________________________________________________________|
Alvin_C._Shih____________________acs@csri.utoronto.ca______________________|
From: rich@apricot.co.uk (Richard Jones)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: OM10 replacement
Keywords: OM10 replace
Date: 17 Aug 92 16:16:16 GMT
Organization: Apricot Computers Limited

I have an Olympus OM10 that I have had for about 10 years, and I have
had enough :-(  Its a great camera when its working properly.  But, it
doesn't like the wet or dusty environments I use it in.  I am now
fed up with paying to get it cleaned, for it to work correctly for a
few months, before reverting to forgetting to close the shutter after
taking a picture - can get some interesting effects sometimes, but
usually just spoils the picture :-)

Thats enough about the OM10.  Its going to be replaced ...  problem is
what with!  All the new cameras seem to have more electronic (read
here - things to go wrong) than the OM10 :-(

My short list looks like this right now -

  Olympus OM4ti - this will take my existing lens's, but my concern
                  here is that Olympus appears to have all, but pulled
                  out of this market - how much longer will the OM
                  format live on and lens's, etc. remain available?

  Nikon F-601AF - a far degree of manual control and hopefully
                  reasonably indestructable.

Suggestions of others cameras worthy of consideration, or any
opinions/experiance of the above would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance

	Rich
  
-- 
 _ __            Apricot Computer Limited    Tel:   (+44) 21 717 7171
' )  )      /    3500 Parkside               Fax:   (+44) 21 717 0123
 /--' o _. /_    Birmingham Business Park
/  \_<_(__/ <_   BIRMINGHAM  B37 7YS         Email: richardj@apricot.co.uk
Richard Jones    United Kingdom                     ..!uknet!apricot!richardj
From: rocher@husc8.harvard.edu (Jean-Marc Rocher)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Techniques for taking swimsuit models?
Date: 22 Aug 92 03:48:15 GMT
Article-I.D.: husc3.1992Aug21.234815.15002
Organization: Harvard University Science Center

In article <1992Aug20.135808.1@ntuvax.ntu.ac.sg> sc6803998@ntuvax.ntu.ac.sg writes:
>Hi all photo gurus,
>
>	I some how have gotten a friend to model for me in a swimsuit! 8)
>Can you guys(girls) out there suggest some good techniques for taking
>girls in swimsuits? 
>	I am using a manual SLR Fujica camara (old) with a some daylight
>filters and have a couple of other filters. So thanks in advance for any
>suggestions.
>
>Michael Van Der Beek
>Nanyang Technological Univeristy.
>

 	If you are shooting b&w, an orange filter will make any skin
blemishes much less noticable, and may even render tan lines invisible. I'm
not sure how good your prints (or slides) will turn out if you use it with
color film. 

					...Jean-Marc Rocher
From: madson@unix.SRI.COM (Carl Madson)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Multiple SB-24 setups, your experiences
Date: 21 Aug 92 15:51:16 GMT
Organization: SRI International, Menlo Park, California


Actually, you should be able to do quite well with a multi-flash setup, and
you don't have to buy additional SB-24's. I suggest looking into one or more
of Nikon's 'simpler' flashes that use the TTL cord interconnections, including
the SB-17 and SB-16. I have the former, since it works with the F3, and other
than the minor hassle of having to get an adapter for the F3 shoe on its base,
it works fine with the SB-24 as the 'master' and using an SC-18 or SC-19 (the
longer of the two) as the connecting cable. It lacks flexibility in relative
power output however, so that's one shortcoming wrt more sophisticated setups.
(I don't know if you could use a second SB-24 and adjust its level down using
the fill ratio control. If so, that would give you +1 to -2 stops of extra 
control, which would help immensely.) The only control over lighting ratios
between the two (or more) flashes in the SB-17 case is via moving the flash
unit or adding external filters/attenuators; changing the fill ratio on the
SB-24 will affect both flashes in the same way. (NB: I need to cross-check
this with a good block diagram of the SB-24, to see where the external flash
connection is routed--if it branches directly to the external flash, then the
fill-flash control on the SB-24 would only affect its output and not that of
the other flash.)

I think you could, in any case, do rather well with an SB-24, a second Nikon
flash on their TTL-type cord (and not necessarily an SB-24), along with one
or two of the small Morris-type slave flashes for background and/or highlights.
Strategically-placed slave flashes can really add to an architectural picture
(read: real estate, such as the ones I recently took of our townhouse). Plus,
they only cost $25-30 each and are easy to toss in your bag.

All this, of course, from a serious Speedotron user...


		--Carl Madson, SRI International, Menlo Park, CA
From: gsnow@clark.edu (Gary Snow)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: polycarbonate camera bodies
Date: 12 Aug 92 21:36:36 GMT
Organization: Clark College, Vancouver, Wa.  USA

In article <1992Aug12.164443.29081@midway.uchicago.edu> ar12@midway.uchicago.edu writes:
>
>Finally, someone
>also suggested that this whole discussion is moot since key structural &
>mounting components are metal- not so- ie: Canon. Even the Nikon 8008
>is a hybrid (a little platic here, a little metal there)- and recently
>people on this net have complained about bending/breaking lens mounts
>on this beloved plastic wonder (I have one and hate it, by the way).

What do you mean "not so- ie: Canon"??? Cannon bodies have the metal
lens mount (excepting the low end Rebels).

Gary

-- 
-----
Gary Snow
uunet!clark!gsnow  or  gsnow@clark.edu
From: bc@Apple.COM (bill coderre)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: loooonnggg lens
Date: 21 Aug 92 20:09:09 GMT
Organization: Apple Computer Inc, Cupertino, CA

So I am wondering if Spiratone still makes their world-famous
"Girlwatcher" lens...

Something like a meter focal length for an unbelievable price of
$39.95 by virtue of having only about 3 elements...

mr HEINOUS
rather facetious, in light of recent discussions
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: hasker@m.cs.uiuc.edu (Rob Hasker)
Subject: Re: Qualex complaints (was Fuji E-6 labs)
Organization: University of Illinois, Dept. of Comp. Sci., Urbana, IL
Distribution: na
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1992 12:27:10 GMT

duane@cbnewsj.cb.att.com (duane.galensky) writes:

>last two times my local lab sent to them: lost into the abyss.
>luckily, the first one was found some time later...the second
>never did show up.

Maybe the problem is at your local lab.  (Also, which lab did they send the
film to?  As has been said many times on the net, the NJ and OH labs seem to
be better than the others.)  I've had only one problem in the several years
that I've been mailing to Kodalux (in OH).  I had one roll come back several
months after sending it in, and I think that time was a fluke because from
calling I learned that they had changed processing systems just when I sent
in the roll (in Nov, 1991).  That's not really a good excuse, but at least it
shouldn't happen again any time soon.

(I send mostly slide film.  But they've done well by the print film I've
sent in, too.  At least, they do a much better job of getting the exposure
right on the prints than any other affordable place locally.)

Rob