HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: mccalley@rtsg.mot.com (Phil McCalley)
Subject: Re: do dishless wheels ride differently?
Keywords: wheel, dish
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 00:20:21 GMT

ehouse@Apple.COM (Eric House) writes:

>Over the weekend I retrued my rear wheel, which now has a 130mm axle, to
>take advantage of the fact that I'm only using ultra-six freewheels and so
>don't need much room on the right side.  The result was a wheel with
>virtually no dish.

>Then yesterday I rode it down a steep, bumpy, twisty descent, and noticed
>that the bike felt more securely attached to the road.  Nothing else about
>the bike had changed since the last time I'd done that hill.

>Am I imagining things, or is it possible that having nearly identical
>tension in the spokes on both sides of a wheel would make it behave differ-
>ently from a wheel with substantially higher-tensioned spokes on one side --
>to a degree I could detect?

>(BTW, the wheel was perfectly true before I started working on it, so any
>change I may have detected did not have to do with no longer being on a
>wobbly wheel.)
>-- 

Maybe every spoke was tighter, and with your wieght on it, it made a
difference.  I used to call this tightening the spokes.  Never did ride
no fancy shmancey bye-cycle.  In my day, we didn't used to have no
seats.  We went off jumps and poked holes in our butts, and that's the
way it was, and we liked it.  And after a hundred or so jumps, when our
butts was all bleedin' and messed up, they spokes was loose.  We tightened
them spokes up best we could, and went of some more jumps till our butts'
was like red swiss cheese.  Thats the way it was, and we...loved it!

-- 
....................................................... Phil McCalley
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: choy@skorpio.usask.ca (I am a terminator.)
Subject: Re: Nightsun
Organization: University of Saskatchewan, Saskatoon, Canada
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 22:49:48 GMT

In article <2SEP199210335396@ariel.lerc.nasa.gov>, piltch@ariel.lerc.nasa.gov (Nancy Piltch) writes:
|> I've been using a Nightsun light for a while (maybe 2 years; don't
|> really remember). The light is going strong but the wiring has
|> deteriorated pretty badly. A lot of the connections - wire to connector,
|> wire to switch, wire to wire, connector to bulb  - have broken. I've 
|> repaired the trouble spots but expect to re-wire it completely.

What is a good light without the external wiring (don't read this the
wrong way)? Lights that totally mount on the handlebar would give
easy switching and no cable to a battery on the frame.

Also, does any know what kind of power floodlights need. I can get
a 12V floodlight that plugs into a cigarette lighter. I want to
use D cells connected in series and I'm wondering if I need an
alternator driven by a V8.

Henry Choy
choy@cs.usask.ca


Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: dacole@descartes.uwaterloo.ca (Dave Cole)
Subject: Re: Biopace Chainrings
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 20:05:47 GMT

I come in 'defence' of Biopace.  I have ridden with these critters for many
  years now, and have come to understand their strengths, as well as their
  weaknesses.  

I rode with them for about 7500 k's over the course of a few bikes and a few
  years.  But due to the opposition to them, I tried normal round rings.  
  I found that when I returned to round chainrings, my knees hurt to the point 
  that I had to discontinue riding after about a thousand kilometres for a few
  months, and seek a chiropractor(sp?).  Back to Biopace, baby.

My cadence would flourish in the range of 85-105 cps, although I must admit
  a fondness for the lower extreme.  And yes, Biopace is not easy to 'spin'
  with, but you get used to it.  Speeds averaging 35-40kph (21-25mph) for
  2.5-3.5 hours at a time, couple of times a week.  Not enough to be classed
  as insanely-devoted, but enough to fear processes leading to permanent damage.

I attribute my sore knees to my accustomed spin with Biopace mainly, plus the
  fact that I never got my toe-clips/clipless pedals and shoes properly and
  professionally adjusted.  I also have a problem with the angle of my 
  ankle to my leg though the spin.  I strongly believe that these points 
  are what caused my knee problem.  I've tried clipless pedals from Look,
  Sampson, Shimano, Time, and ?Keywin?, but the pain followed the round rings.

I agree that you would probably never see Biopace on the Tour de France, but 
  down here on the lowly bike-ride-on-a-budget, Biopace seems to be the least
  expensive alternative to therapy, massage, and the 'Fit-Kit'.
  
And to the accusation that it is difficult to climb with Biopace, I strongly
  disagree.  I had never been defeated on a hill (by round or biopace equipped
  people) until I was using round chainrings.  And that was after I re-learned
  how to spin with the damn things, and before the knee problem really 
  broke me.  But I digress; I never entered any serious races, so I can't 
  draw any conclusions on real worthiness against those die-hard licensed 
  riders.

So I agree with the thought that round rings are better at the (cough) 
  financed 'pro' level, but down here where it's every cyclist for himself,
  Biopace saved me from a mass of problems.  I feel that Biopace is good for
  the lazy person, who fears the steps bring them closer to the professional
  circuit, and the pure recreational, who has absolutely no interest in doing
  more than is necessary to keep those inches off.

But then again, there is no denying the havoc that is wreaked with front 
  shifting, when your chain is bouncing all over the place.  God, that's
  annoying. =:^#

Dave Cole
dacole@descartes.uwaterloo.ca
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: josh@Happy-Man.com (Joshua_Putnam)
Subject: Re: extinction (was: Re: Saddle sores)
Reply-To: Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com
Organization: Happy Man Corp., Vashon Island, WA 98070-7399
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 18:24:02 GMT

In <180sl1INNo1s@overload.lbl.gov> chrisv@carnival.lbl.gov (Chris Moll) writes:

>In defense of friction shifting john.t.erhardt writes:
>>Ok fine what if your out riding and you drivetrain isn't up to par.
>>Are you going to go right home and fix it then continue your ride?
>>No, your going to put it in friction mode and keep riding.

>This chestnut has been around for a while.  Certainly I took it for
>granted.

>But in two years of riding various different bikes, all with indexing,
>and riding with many people using indexing, the only times I or my riding
>companions used the friction option were when it was first installed 
>and set up wrong; rather than fuss with it, and because we were accustomed
>to friction, we'd use that.  But I have yet to see anyone need it to get home.

Until last month, my experience was the same.  Then my
friend Rob broke a freewheel-side spoke on the first day
of a six day ride.  The broken spoke flopped into the
chain and got pulled into the derailleur, where it ripped
one tooth off the top jockey pulley and bent the
derailleur very badly.

No amount of adjustment could get more than three gears to
work on indexing, but in friction mode we could get four
reliably and sometimes five if he forced it.  The two
smallest cogs were a lost cause.

This is obviously an extreme case.  In general, indexing
is very easy to adjust on the road -- I rarely stop
pedaling when adjusting mine, let alone get off the bike.
-- 
 Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com    Happy Man Corp.  206/463-9399 x102
 4410 SW Pt. Robinson Rd., Vashon Island, WA  98070-7399  fax x108
 We publish SOLID VALUE for the intelligent investor.  NextMail OK
Info free; sample $20: Send POSTAL addr: Solid-Value@happy-man.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: jac@noaacrd.colorado.edu (Julia Collins)
Subject: Re: VO2 max (was Re: Heart Rate Survey: Results)
Organization: NOAA Climate Research Division
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 16:10:46 GMT

Oops - misposted the referenced article. Please followup the
VO2 discussion to rec.bicycles.misc.

Thanks.

Julia
.................................................................
: e-mail:       jac@noaacrd.colorado.edu			:
:...............................................................:
: Given that true intellectual and emotional compatibility are  :
: at the very least difficult, if not impossible, to come by,   :
: we could always opt for the more temporal gratification of    :
: sheer physical attraction.  That wouldn't make you a shallow 	:
: person...would it? 	 		- Lyle Lovett		:
:...............................................................:
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: josh@Happy-Man.com (Joshua_Putnam)
Subject: Re: I Can't See
Reply-To: Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com
Organization: Happy Man Corp., Vashon Island, WA 98070-7399
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 17:05:26 GMT

In <1992Aug28.181246.16323@cbfsb.cb.att.com> ncherry@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (neil j.cherry) writes:

>In article <1992Aug27.162008.14837@athena.mit.edu> aviator@athena.mit.edu (Joakim Karlsson) writes:
>>                 Slight problem: They fog up.  This only happens

>I'm going to give some rain-x a try this weekend. I have the same problem when
>I ride early in the morning and its cool. If I stop, my glasses fog, when I
>ride they're fine. My glasses have the row of holes along the the top to vent
>but it happens anyway. (I like the idea of the ivory soap, I'll try that on
>the mirror tomorrow.)

WARNING!  Rain-X and soap films work in opposite ways, and
Rain-X can make inside fogging MUCH WORSE.

A soap film kills the surface tension on all the little
drops of condensation, so instead of thousands of drops of
water you get a film over the entire lens surface.  This
is a little bleary to look through, but doesn't diffract
like the drops do.

Rain-X makes water bead up and not wet the surface at all.
This means the little drops are more clearly defined, and
lets them roll off if there is a wind blowing across the
surface.  If there isn't a wind, however, the condensation
is harder to see through than ordinary condensation.

I use Rain-X on the outer surface of my rain goggles, but
if I ever get some on the inside by mistake, the Rain-X
shows up as an area that is much easier to fog up, and
harder to de-fog, than untreated plastic or glass lenses.
If the Rain-X gets in an important part of the lens, I'll
do without the goggles, since filling my eyes with mud
impairs my vision less.

Besides bar soap, liquid dish detergent, gel toothpaste,
shaving cream, potato juice, and saliva all leave a film
that reduces fogging.  Visine has a small aerosol lens
cleaning solution that leaves a somewhat effective
anti-fog film.  It's a convenient size of can -- about the
same as Chap Stick -- and contains a good degreaser for
when your messy fingers smear black chain goo on your
glasses.


In really nasty weather, I use double-lensed ski goggles
with extra ventilation.  The double lens works like
insulating windows -- the air gap leaves the inner face
warmer, less likely to fog up.  The extra ventilation
keeps my regular prescription glasses from fogging up
inside the goggles.  It's important to keep these goggles
clean, since they are more susceptible to reflections that
can be distracting when it's raining at night.
-- 
 Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com    Happy Man Corp.  206/463-9399 x102
 4410 SW Pt. Robinson Rd., Vashon Island, WA  98070-7399  fax x108
 We publish SOLID VALUE for the intelligent investor.  NextMail OK
Info free; sample $20: Send POSTAL addr: Solid-Value@happy-man.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: mvolo@ecsvax.uncecs.edu (Michael R. Volow)
Subject: reliability of wireless bike computers?
Keywords: bike computers
Organization: UNC Educational Computing Service
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 02:15:13 GMT


Tittle says it all. What has been our experience with the reliability
of wireless bike comp;uters? Any brands better than others? Thanks.
-- 
Michael Volow, Psychiatry, Durham VA Med Center, Durham NC 27712
919 286 0411 Ext 6933               mvolo@uncecs.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: MEDELMA@cms.cc.wayne.edu (Michael Edelman)
Subject: Re: m. of Frame Materials for Review
Organization: Wayne State University, C&IT
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 12:59:46 GMT

My understanding is that Reynolds 753 gains its extra strength not from
heat treating, but from cold working. I think Nivachrome is similar in
that respect. Low-temperature brazing alloys must be used in order to
avoid drawing the temper of the tubes.
 
Tubes *can* be replaced, but it requires a lot more skill to avoid
overheating joints.
 
At least, that's what I've been told.....
 
           --mike
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: F.Brown@massey.ac.nz (F.J. Brown)
Subject: Frith's tandem update
Summary: More tandem questions
Keywords: tandem
Organization: Massey University, Palmerston North, New Zealand
X-Reader: NETNEWS/PC Version 2c
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 92 02:42:11 GMT

Hi netters!

Thanks for those who replied to my tandem questions (we just bought a new
Burley Duet.   All is going well with the tandem, we're actually
getting off the seat occasionally now, albeit still a little gingerly.

Two questions:
Why do you some people have the two sets of cranks off-synch (as mentioned 
in an earlier posting)?   Surely you need them in synch as part of the
process of convergently-evolving pedalling technique?

Have you ever had trouble with a soft knocking-clunky sort of sound which
appears to be coming from the front bottom bracket, especially under heavy
load?   Freewheeling for a moment stops it, but it comes back again once
the load gets hard.

Any more tandem discussion also welcomed!

Cheers,

Frith
-- 
==============================================================================
Frith Brown                     E-mail:  F.Brown@massey.ac.nz
Agronomy Department             Phone:   +64 06 356 9099 ext. 8800
Massey University               Fax:     +64 06 350 5614
Palmerston North
New Zealand                     Do you Du it too?
==============================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: trammell@engin.umich.edu (James Trammell)
Subject: Taya "No Chain Tool Required" Chain
Date: Wed, 02 Sep 92 17:21:24 EDT
Organization: The University of Michigan
Originator: trammell@metaphor.engin.umich.edu


I've seen ads recently about a new chain on the market, made by a company
called Taya.  It seems they have 2 models, the Taya Relief and the Taya
Extreme.  Both are advertised as having a special master links that can be
snapped on or off with just the hands, i.e. no chain tool is needed.  They
also talk about the virtues of their chain plates and how the pins are
flush with the plate surfaces.
I have a mtn. bike with a Hyperglide chain, and it can get pretty dirty,
and I like to keep it clean, so I remove it frequently.  It's a pain to have
to use that stupid replacement pin though.  Has anyone tried this new chain?
Is the Taya Relief or the Taya Extreme good for use on bikes that use 
Hyperglide chains?


Thanks,
-James
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: wax faq
From: oren@coma.huji.ac.il (Oren Mitz)
Date: 30 Aug 92 02:55:59 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Hebrew University, Jerusalem, Israel

Hi;

  I hope I am not posting too much qestions that were all ready reviewed.
I read all the postings and qestion about waxing chains but I still have
a few qestions befor I have the guts to go on and wax my chain.

1.  How clean does your chain need to be befor you wax it?
2.  How long do you leave the chain in wax?  How do you take of the wax?
3.  What do I do after I wax my chain?  Do I have to lube it?
4.  Can some one give a full review about the subject?

thankx in advance;

Oren Mitz
oren@coma.huji.ac.il
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: newman@otto.ycc.yale.edu (Andrew Newman)
Subject: Sore thumb and Rapidfire Shifters
Organization: Yale University
Distribution: rec
Date: 28 Aug 92 14:25:26 GMT

Greetings,

I just recently entered the arena of mountain biking after many years
as a semi-serious road cyclist.  I got a Trek 970 on a year end
clearance and have been busily honing my skills.  So far so good...
with one exception.  My right thumb becomes incredibly sore after
just a few hours of riding.  It's a muscle ache and seems to be related
to reaching forward to press the downshift button on the rapidfire
shifters.  The shifters are Deore XT's with the upshift button
wrapped around the front of the handlebar.  I like the setup very
much.  I have considered the possibility that I am unconciously
riding with my thumb constantly extended over the shift button but I
haven't noticed the behavior.  I wear the same leather padded cycling
gloves I have always used for road biking.

Has anyone else experienced this problem?  Should I:

1)	Change my riding style?
2)	Adjust the rapidfire units differently?  (they seem properly 
	adjusted...)
3)	Wear different gloves?
4)	Exercise my thumb somehow? :) (other than typing in long
	programs that is...)

Finally...is this the right newsgroup for this question (tech)?  Since
the reorg I've been trying to DTRT (do the right thing).


*  ===\  |===|  ===\  *========================================================
*  |       |    |  |  *                 -Andrew Newman                        *
*  |==|    |    |==/  *                  C&IS Systems Technology & Planning   *
*     |    |    |     *                  Yale University                      *
*  \===    |    |     *                  (newman-andy@yale.edu)               *
*---------------------*========================================================
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: josh@Happy-Man.com (Joshua_Putnam)
Subject: Re: SUMMARY: stuck crankarms
Reply-To: Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com
Organization: Happy Man Corp., Vashon Island, WA 98070-7399
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 23:38:24 GMT

In <1992Aug31.161227.20353@msc.cornell.edu> tan@lynx.msc.cornell.edu.UUCP (David Tan,Box 219 Baker Lab,54810,2720402) writes:

>About a week ago I posted a question about removing crankarms stuck to
>the BB spindle.  Here are the responses I got, and what I did.

>Thanks to all who replied!

>Several people suggested using a pulley puller or automotive gear puller,
>apparently a device with arms that hold onto the spider and a shaft that
>goes into the bolt hole, although one said that he snapped off an arm of
>the spider doing this.

Looking through the Third Hand catalog last night I was
reminded that they have special tools designed for
removing stuck cranks, including those with completely
stripped threads.  As with gear pullers, these can be
destructive, but they do get the crank off.
-- 
 Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com    Happy Man Corp.  206/463-9399 x102
 4410 SW Pt. Robinson Rd., Vashon Island, WA  98070-7399  fax x108
 We publish SOLID VALUE for the intelligent investor.  NextMail OK
Info free; sample $20: Send POSTAL addr: Solid-Value@happy-man.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: RZAA80@email (Jim Chott)
Subject: Re: MTB:  How to not trash the rear derailleur?
Organization: Mot
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 23:30:21 GMT

In article <87570@netnews.upenn.edu>, vinson@shiva.seas.upenn.edu (Jack Vinson) writes:
> 
> 
> I seem to be pretty good a trashing rear derailleurs on my MTB.  As of
> tomorrow I will have a third since I got my spiffy purple puddle eater back
> in November.  Before that I had a cheapo "mtb" with a 200GS drivetrain that
> is STILL working okay as my commuting and "road" bike.
> 
> It is entirely possible that I am riding more aggressively on my current
> mtb because it's built for it.  I guess I am just surprised at how much
> money I am continually sinking into this thing.  I've also gone through
> several freewheels - by the way I am running Shimano derailleurs with a
> Suntour freewheel, but this may change when I replace my rear wheel.
>

 I have a Suntour derailleur on an approximately $370 bike which is three
 years old, not a high dollar bike.
 
I ride quite often on *dry* trails, (rock, sand, i.e. deserts) and have yet to 
replace my derailleur or chain.  I have ruined two freewheels, both Suntour,    
one by breaking teeth by shifting while pulling and one broke internally.  It seems
that the greatest damage occurs to the chain and derailleur when shifting under 
power.  Since I have been more careful about shifting while coasting, I haven't
broke anything.  I do ride rough terrain and most climbing is in granny gear with
little shifting.

Hope this helps.
Jungle
From: crwg2707@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (R. Wagner)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: I Can't See
Date: 3 Sep 92 17:01:17 GMT
Article-I.D.: news.Bu0Hy7.5p2
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana

chuck@edsi.plexus.COM (Chuck Tomasi) writes:

>SCUBA divers have been dealing with this problem for years.  The problem
>is condensation.  The solution is to reduce the surface tension so that
>condensation cannot form.  The cheapest and easiest way (albeit a little
>grotesque) is to use spit.  A good old fashioned "loogy" to the googles
>and wipe it out (of course).  Someone else mentioned dishwashing
>-- 

Like I said, I learned some about this from SCUBA, and hocking a loogy is a
bad idea.  It tends to cause eye infections which are even worse as far as
seeing the trail.


>Chuck Tomasi             |     "It's my job to help
>chuck@edsi.plexus.COM    |      but I don't have to like it."
>spool!cserver!edsi!chuck |                    -Dr. Crusher, "I, Borg"
>------<Enterprise Data Systems Incorporated, Appleton Wisconsin>------


Ride on, 
Raydude.

"Ray, a man unburdened by the rigors of coherent thought." 
          -a Brannonism quoted by George Heinz
From: harry@cv.hp.com (Harry Phinney)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Forging differences
Date: 25 Aug 92 23:56:05 GMT
Article-I.D.: hpcvusn.1992Aug25.235605.28630
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4

choy@skorpio.usask.ca (I am a terminator.) writes:
: What are the differences between drop forged and cold forged
: objects? I've been told that the cold forged XTR components are
: supposed to be really strong.

Forging is one means of working a material into a desired shape.  It
generally involves pressing or hammering the material between dies,
although simple shapes can be forged with flat hammers.  Mechanical
working of metals (e.g.  forging) can generally be performed either
"hot" or "cold" where the temperatures associated with the terms are
defined by the recrystallization temperature of the metal.  If the work
is done above the recrystallization temperature, it is by definition
"hot", and little if any strain hardening (aka work hardening) can occur,
meaning that plastic deformation is relatively easy to accomplish.  This
means that less force must be used, allowing the use of less expensive
machinery (e.g.  lighter presses or hammers).  Cold working has some
advantages over hot working including:

A. Higher strength properties.
B. Closer dimensional tolerances.
C. Smoother finish.

In addition, a proper combination of cold work and precipitation
hardening (such as is likely used with the aluminum alloys used in
bicycle parts) can result in strength unattainable by either process
alone.  Note that Shimano XTR is certainly NOT the only component
grouposet which uses cold forgings.  Most (if not all) of the higher
end, highly stressed components (e.g.  crank arms) from Shimano,
Campagnolo, Suntour, and Mavic are cold forged.

Harry Phinney   harry@hp-pcd.cv.hp.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech