HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston)
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 92 18:50:08 CDT
Organization: Garys' Home for Obsolete Computers

marks@ssdevo.enet.dec.com (Randy Marks) writes:

> I'd like to have a concrete slab installed for a dog kennel.
> Problem is, the water lines for the underground sprinkler system
> all originate on that side of the house.  Thus, I'd end up with
> the first 10' or 15' of each sprinkler zone supply line underneath
> the concrete.  If something goes wrong with the sprinkler lines,
> I'd have a big maintenance headache.   Just wondering if any of
> you misc.consumers.house readers have ideas on how to solve this
> problem with minimal expense.
> 
> |     house                |
> ----------------------------
>            | | 
> ===========+ +==================   sprinkler lines
> 
> 
> <------ proposed slab ----->
>       extending up to house

Dig trenches for each line so that you can lay in 4" PVC sewer pipe
with two 45 degree joints in each one under the slab area. Box in
a 2 or 3 foot square where the lines exit the house, and slip a cap
over each end of the 4" pipe. Then, if one of the small lines breaks,
you can tie up the dog, dig down to each end of the PVC and feed through
a piece of polybutylene flexible pipe to switch over to. Lay 4" cinder
blocks in the opening to keep the dog from digging (or maybe put the
doghouse over it :-) ).

   |                           |
   |       House               |
   -----------------------------
              l    l
              l/__\l  access hole
             /      \
 __________/          \______________   sewer pipe

  |-----------------------------|
             slab border

This avoids needing to break up the slab or do any fancy routing to
do repairs.

You could go ahead and replace the sections with flex thru the big
stuff now, so it'd be on the right level, and box in both ends with
a few bricks and patio blocks, to make repairs even easier.

I plan on using a similar technique if I ever get to build a place,
to run all water supply, power, and communications cables through.

Gary Heston, at home....
gary@cdthq.uucp
From: davidbu@loowit.wr.tek.com (David E. Buxton)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Septic system blues...
Keywords: septic new house
Date: 13 Apr 92 21:08:47 GMT
Distribution: usa

> My house has a 6-year-old septic system.  We have had no problems

Six years sounds long over due.

> Question: when should we expect to pump it out?  We try to limit

It would seem you have not had it pumped at all yet.  Else I'd suggest
you get on the phone with the guy who pumped it last.  The size of
the tank makes a difference and the person who pumped it last may have
made a note of how big your tank is.  Three years I think is what
is recommended for the average sized tank.  Six years, and an odor
out there.  Phew, sounds like you might be getting to it in the nick
of time.  Go for it.

Dave
From: thomase@tekig5.pen.tek.com (Thomas Stan England)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Recommendations on power painters
Date: 7 Apr 92 21:41:36 GMT
Reply-To: thomase@tekig5.pen.tek.com
Distribution: usa
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Beaverton,  OR.

Danny,
If you intend to paint more that say a door, you should probably consider
renting a compressor and a spray head that uses a siphon hose that can
be put into a large paint bucket.

I helped with one housepainting project and several people brought their
power sprayers (Wagner and another that I don't remember the name of). While 
they did a fine job on the doors and other small areas, the thought of trying
to cover many square feet with that constant tat-tat-tat of the sprayer 
changed my mind about ever using one on a big project.
From: jennyb@carina.unm.edu
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Septic system blues...
Summary: When to pump, cleaning products
Keywords: septic new house
Date: 13 Apr 92 18:19:35 GMT
Article-I.D.: lynx.z_xjt7n
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of New Mexico, Albuquerque

My house has a 6-year-old septic system.  We have had no problems
with it, except some mornings there is a bad smell in the yard.
Question: when should we expect to pump it out?  We try to limit
solids down the drain (no kitchen disposal), and the soil is 
extremely porous (pumice)...a water absorption test involves
dumping the water on the ground, glancing at your watch, and
observing that the water is already gone.  

Also: are the enzymatic/bacterial septic system cleaners
useful at all?  What are some good/bad kinds?

Jenny Ballmann
jennyb@carina.unm.edu
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: butteris@dingus.ssc.gov (Jamey Butteris)
Subject: New house buyer questions
Keywords: mortgage, fha
Organization: Superconducting Super Collider Laboratory
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1992 03:05:27 GMT


Apologies in advance for wasting bit-time for these potentially redundant  
questions. (I am a new user of the news system). I am currently involved  
with the construction (and finance) of a new home in the Waxahachie  
(Dallas, TX) area and am concerned with the breakdown of closing expenses. 
The broker expenses were as follows (with explicitive text as needed):
$63,000 mortgage value  (my first house :-)
$ 2,300 One Time Mortgage Insurance Premium (OTMIP) (What the 'ell is it?)
$ 1,300 Down payment  (FHA)
$    65 credit report (high, but not out of line)
$   225 appraisal (Pretty standard, I think)
$   607 1% loan origination fee (a "rip" but again, normal)
$    45 inspection fee (local thing)
$   175 title insurance policy (???)
$    30 recording (?)
$   200 survey fee (fairly normal)
$   150 document preperation (??? what is it, which documents ???)
$    50 settlement/ escrow (again ???)
$   496 Escrow Insurance (I don't get it)
$   200 2 months advance taxes (Ok here)
$    51 Mortgage insurance (Wait a minute, didn't I already pay this ?)
$ 1,000 1.65 points (approx, ok here)

$ 5,604 !! total (Is this "normal", what is wrong with this picture?)
	sustained mortgage insurance is an additional $25 per month!!
	
Why so many insurances?
Are these legitimate expenses?
If I pay an OTMIP, then why a monthly mortgage in addition??
Is mortgage insurance needed. 
What about a general insurance policy that paya the mortgage if I die or
     whatever?
What is escrow insurance?? Why do I need it.
Can I get my own insurance to cover these requirements? How?
Where can I find out more info without sifting through endless piles of
     data?


If anybody knows any answers to these and any unspoken questions or simple  
advice,  please mail or post them to me. 

Thanx in advance.

Jamey B @ SSC.
From: bwood@diva.Berkeley.EDU (Blake Philip Wood)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Removing condensation from inside of double paned windows
Date: 7 Apr 92 14:18:35 GMT
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
NNTP-Posting-Host: diva.berkeley.edu

A year or so ago there was a long discussion in this newsgroup about
removing condensation from inside double-paned windows.  I have this
problem in the house I just bought.  Can someone send me a summary
of the old discussion?   Other informed opinions are welcome.
I'll post a new summary.


-- 
                 Blake P. Wood - bpw@fjwsys.lanl.gov  (505) 665-6524
                 Group P-1, MS-E526, LANL, Los Alamos, NM  87545
From: davidbu@loowit.wr.tek.com (David E. Buxton)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Retaining Wall in Yard
Date: 14 Apr 92 15:31:38 GMT

> . . . . 
> to minimize the amount of work involved.  I see alot of railroad tie walls
> around the neighborhood.  Any help would be appreciated.

I have worked with railroad ties.  For example a small section of front
lawn.  The railroad ties are set into the ground so as to be flush with
the surface of the lawn so you can see the railroad ties top surface and
part of its outer surface, which starts out a few inches tall.  But as
you go around the corner it ends up three railroad ties high, with the
top flush with the law all around so it looks good and is easy to mow.

Railroad ties will be attacked at cut ends.  At a previous house there
were railroad ties that carpenter ants had attacked into those ends
which had been cut.  The uncut ties were still solid.  So, if you have
to cut the ties get some dope to soak the ends in.  That won't be as
good as pressure treating, but should back them off for a few years.
The pressure treating does go in quite deep, but of course its a lot
more toxic for the first couple inches of depth.  Cutting the ends
or deep splits does expose wood that is not well treated.

Some past discussion on railroad ties points out that they are at the
end of their lifetime as far as the railroad is concerned when they
dispose of them.  So, if they last another ten years that is doing
very very good.  So, what you choose will depend on how long you want it
to last.  If you plan to stay for several years and you don't like
to put a new face on your yard once in awhile then try something
more durable.  Else, if a short timer or you like to put a different
smile on your front yard from time to time, then I'd say railroad
ties can be a great idea.

Also, them scraps.  Don't burn them.  The arsenic or what ever is
bound to the wood and is reasonably safe.  However the smoke is
very toxic and the ashes can be deadly.  Also be careful with the
sawdust from your cutting.

Dave
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: libby@osf.org (Libby Hanna)
Subject: unsolicited contractor referral
Keywords: good help
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Distribution: ne
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 20:28:29 GMT

Caveats: I guess this risks violating the ban on plugging
commercial stuff, but it's not my company. Also, apologies
if distribution is not limited enough.

With Spring here, some of you may be thinking about that
new roof or deck or whatever. I want to give a recommendation
of a truly excellent contractor. He is not paying me to do this
or anything...it's just so rare to find such a terrific individual!

Rich Little (phone (508) 667-0584) advertises that he does
aluminum & vinyl siding, gutters, roofing, storm windows & doors,
decks and general carpentry. In the past two years, he's done
siding on our house and has replaced a screened in porch. He
is an extraordinarily talented and dependable craftsman. He will
not do a job without doing it to perfection. He has even stopped
by our house a few days after completing a job, unsolicited,
to fix some little thing which we never even noticed but, 
which was apparently bothering HIM. 

His prices are quite reasonable and he'll go out of his way
to come for estimates, etc., when you are available. He finishes
on time and on budget, excepting the unforeseen. He can also
recommend other excellent, quality-conscious contractors for
the work he does not do.

If you have any work you need done this year and you live
within reasonable distance from Billerica, MA., I strongly
suggest you give Rich a call.

Libby

-- 
__________________________________________________________________
Libby Hanna - Motif QA              Open Software Foundation
libby@osf.osf.org                   Cambridge, MA   (617) 621-8820
This is your brain. This is your brain with Traversal turned on.
Any questions?
From: jkubic@reed.edu (Jan Kubic)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Need Recomendations for Electric Lawnmower
Date: 16 Apr 92 11:40:58 GMT
Article-I.D.: reed.1992Apr16.114058.1674
Distribution: usa
Organization: Reed College, Portland OR

The title says it all.  I have a yard that is large enough not to
want to use a manual reel mower on (and have to rake, bag and sweep
the sidewalks), yet small and level enough not to need a gas
powered unit on.  So, if anyone out there has had any experiences
(good or bad) with electric (preferably bagging) lawnmowers I would
appreciate their input.

Thanks in advance,

Jan
jkubic@reed.edu
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: jim@doink.b23b.ingr.com (James B. Reed)
Subject: Re: How do I send skunks on their way?
Reply-To: jimreed@b23b.ingr.com
Organization: Intergraph Corporation, Huntsville, AL.
Distribution: misc.consumers.house
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1992 16:00:25 GMT

In article <GLEN.92Apr3124924@midway.Cayman.COM>, glen@Cayman.COM (Glen B. Glater) writes:
|> We've got skunks living in/around our yard.
|> How can I make them go away?  
|> Does anyone know of anything that skunks don't like, such as blood or bone 
|> meal or any of those things?

Last fall my parents had skunks move in under a porch.  They tossed in
a handfull or two of mothballs and the skunks vacated.  I don't know if
the odor would dissipate too fast for this to be effective completely
out of doors, but it is fairly cheap to try.  (Let us know if it works.)

|> I'm really afraid that my cat is going to get a bit too close...

Not more than once I bet :-).

-- 
James B. Reed                | If at first you don't succeed,
DAZIX, An Intergraph Company | Find out why,
jimreed@b23b.ingr.com        | **THEN** try again.
(205) 730-8874               |
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: kenk@sdc.com (Ken Konecki)
Subject: Re: Bad, Bad Smoke Alarm... (more info)
Organization: Systems Development Corporation
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1992 14:12:21 GMT

In article <9375@wrgate.wr.tek.com> davidbu@loowit.wr.tek.com (David E. Buxton) writes:
>By the time the electrical system is
>shorting out breakers you are either long ago out of the house or well
>cooked.  But of course if you want to be extra sure, have both kinds
>installed.

Our house has smoke detectors attached to the house wiring with battery
backup.  If you have non battery smoke detectors, you might want to
replace them with the battery backup kind as an alternative to having
both types in your house.  Like the battery only models, ours cheep
when the backup battery is low, so there's no worry about the battery
being dead if the power is lost.

Cheers,
    -Ken K
-- 
Ken Konecki
e-mail:kenk@sdc.com    -or-    ...!uunet!uupsi2!sdc!kenk
"The amount of education you have determines your loot in life"
From: elel@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (eric.edberg)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Selling a home to a VA buyer
Summary: Beware of pitfals
Date: 6 Apr 92 20:17:13 GMT
Organization: AT&T

In article <1992Mar31.181248.6226@linus.mitre.org>, mmcevill@mitre.org (Michael A. McEvilley) writes:
> In article <1992Mar27.220744.4776@webo.dg.com> don@mystie.rtp.dg.com (Don 
> Lehman) writes:
> The VA requires an appraisal by the VA.   If the house appraises less than 
> the asking price, the deal is NOT off.  The buyer has the option to 
> purchase the house anyway.  The VA will never appraise a house for more 
> than the asking price (thats just the way the government is).
> 

But the buyer does have the option of immediately terminating 
the contract.  

If the contract has been out for 2 months getting processed and the
inspector comes buy with a low appraisal then the seller is at the
mercy of the buyer who may now dictate "new" terms.

We "tried" to sell our house to VA buyer at fair market value.
We verbally agreed to an offer.  The buyer then countered asking if
we could pay 5 points.  We accepted with the stipulation that the sales 
price be raised xx thousands of dollars to cover the additional point 
spread.  This raised the sales price by 6,000 dollars.

After 7 weeks the VA inspector came by and said our house was
really only worth the original asking price that we agreed upon.
The VA buyer then had the nerve to "mandate" that we lower the
selling price to what the inspector quoted in addition to paying the 
high point spread.  In the end we lost 8 weeks of prime spring-time 
selling; not to mention the 4 more months it took to close on the 
house once we found another buyer.

I mention this because this has happened to others and is a big
loophole/escape in the contract.

eric edberg
From: action@cbnewse.cb.att.com (timothy.d.acton)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Shower Choices All Wet
Summary: masonite or custom order the enclosure
Date: 6 Apr 92 18:12:58 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T

In article <25860022@hpcvra.cv.hp.com>, tedb@hpcvra.cv.hp.com (Ted Beers) writes:
> 
>     We are planning for a new house, and decision #1523 has to do with
>     the master bath.  We are planning to have an oversized shower (3' by
>     6'), but apparently the largest fiberglass enclosure one can buy is
>     5' long.  The only options we've heard of so far are:
> 
>     o Build a tile enclosure.  This isn't desirable for us because of
>       high cost (and maintenance).
> 
>     o Build a "cultured marble" enclosure.  Cultured marble is a panel
>       covered with resins and such to resemble marble; it's commonly
>       used to make combination bathroom counters and sinks.  The main
>       problem with this option is the lack of finish choices; we'd
>       prefer something besides a marble look.
> 
>     o Go with a 5' fiberglass enclosure.  But we were hoping for 6', so
>       this isn't so great.
> 
>     Does anyone have any other alternatives to add?  Reactions to any of
>     these choices are also welcome.  Thanks!
> 
> 				Ted Beers
> 

I installed masonite paneling in our half bath. It is simply
glued to the existing greenwall. It comes in many different
styles/colors/simulated marble texture. I do not know
how this holds up for long term. My parents put this in the
bathroom shower in (1970?) and the material lasted about 8
years. THen it looked TERRIBLE. Newer materials may be better.

DRAWBACKS:
1. you will need to make a waterproof seam to design the
encloser size you describe.
2. If you are not good at caulking the corners, the finished
product looks a little tacky
3. Replacement of the masonite usually requires that the
drywall be removed with the masonite.

Have you considered a custom order enclosure?

Good Luck,
Tim Acton
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: thundt@dis9001.shearson.com (Thomas M. Hundt)
Subject: Re: dumping a broker
Organization: Lehman Brothers
	<JACK.92Apr3085158@au-bon-pain.lcs.mit.edu>
	<1992Apr3.175723.26491@informix.com>
Distribution: misc
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 21:20:56 GMT

   >Based on a $150,000 house the commission is $9000 at 6%. If what you say 
   >is true, then an extra $1050 will motivate him show my house more 

   broker, and had 3 $150K houses to show to a potential buyer, wouldn't you
   be more likely to "fluff up" the one with the higher commission?  

No.  The one that could be sold easiest.  The 6% is the goal.

   quickly), so the broker likely has several houses to choose from to show

He will show them *all*, if he has half a brain.  Nicest one last. :-)

   But if you were offered three jobs that
   were more or less equivalent, but one paid a slightly higher salary, which
   job would you be inclined to take?  Brokers need to feed their kids, too

Key words: "more or less equivalent".  Anyway, this is a bad analogy.
IMHO the broker has less control over things than one might think:
buyers are quite finicky.  (I should know, I'm being very finicky at
the moment, looking for a house in NJ, in commuting distance to NYC,
reasonably cheap.)  There is lots to cr*p out there.  I'm only going
to buy something I'm *sure* I can resell in five years without a loss.

Brokers tend to point out all the good parts anyway.  It's an
all-or-nothing situation: either the broker gets the $9k or $10k or
*nothing*.  They're not going to be motivated by an extra $1000 when
it's the first $9000 that's hard to get!  Make their life easier by
having a house that's easy to sell, and it will be sold.

The way to sell a house is to pretend you're a buyer and look at
similar houses in the area, then price yours 10+% less.  Brokers never
advertise all their "wares" in the freebie listing booklets; you want
*yours* to be one of the ones in that book, that buyers will ask for.

Also: I'd make sure that there was an expiration date on any contract
I make with a broker.  (Which you have now learned the hard way, I'm
sorry to read.)

   (not all of them drive around in fancy cars, etc. you know).

Just the ones in expensive neighborhoods.  Try Upper Montclair.  The
lady with the big Beemer brought me to this house, and the listing
broker was waiting there (with his huge Mercedes.)  Sigh.

-Tom Hundt
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: rubin@watson.ibm.com (Bill Rubin)
Subject: Casablanca Ceiling Fan - Intellitouch Switch Replacement
Date: Thu, 09 Apr 1992 14:59:30 GMT
Distribution: na
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center

The Intellitouch wall switch for my Casablanca ceiling fan seems to have
bitten the dust after 6 years of daily use.  They can sell me a replacement
switch for $10, or an upgrade kit to get the latest circuit board plus new
switch for $49.  They claimed that the new board will lengthen the life of
the fan.  Is this true?  Has anyone else bought the upgrade kit?

PS:  feel free to post a reply, but also e-mail me as I need to make a
quick decision.

Thanks...
-- Bill rubin@watson.ibm.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: rudoff@mdd.comm.mot.com (Doug Rudoff)
Subject: Heating: Forced Air or Hot Water?
Organization: Motorola, Mobile Data Division - Seattle, WA
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 00:06:26 GMT


My house is currently heated by electric baseboard, which does keep
the house warm, but is expensive. I'd like to upgrade to a gas heating
system, which tend to be less expensive to run than electric. I've
experienced forced air heat, but never hot water heat.

I would have to install ducts for forced air, and I would have to
install plumbing for hot water. Installing plumbing seems a lot
simpler. Is it?

What are the advantages of one system over another? I already know
that forced air is noisier and will heat a house faster than hot
water. I would guess there are more things to go wrong with hot water.

(My house has an attic and a crawlspace.)
-- 
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Doug Rudoff          Motorola, Seattle    INTERNET:rudoff@mdd.comm.mot.com
                                            USENET:uunet!mdisea!rudoff   
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
From: ars@n5pph007.uucp (Andrew Snedeker)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Are skylights suitable for high pitch roofs?
Date: 16 Apr 92 11:34:33 GMT
Reply-To: ars@n5pph007.UUCP (Andrew Snedeker)
Organization: Northern Telecom,  Research Triangle Park,  North Carolina

In article <1992Apr9.124557.3706@infonode.ingr.com> frank@ugly.b23a.ingr.com (Franklin Owens) writes:
>I am currently having a house built.  The plans calls for a skylight in
>the bathroom.  However the roof pitch is 10/12 which is fairly steep.  I
>have been told that because of the speepness that the skylight will look
>more like a tunnel. I tend to agree with this but what do you guys think?
>
The townhouse we rent has a more exaggerated version of this in that
the skylight in the master bath comes through the walkup attic.  The
"tunnel" from the roof to the ceiling of the bathroom must be 10' to 12'.
However, it still provides plenty of light and does not look awkward.
Hope this helps...

Andrew
From: bollard@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Lee M. Bollard)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Alarm systems and cats
Date: 10 Apr 92 22:44:48 GMT
Article-I.D.: hpspkla.30560008
Organization: Hewlett Packard Company, Spokane, Wa.

We just put the cats in the basement during the day while the infared
detector is on.  The infared we have does have a reflector, part of
which flips up to disable coverage near the floor.  This is to prevent
false alarms due to dogs, etc.  A cat could just jump up on the back
of the couch and set off the alarm.

So the kitties are in the basement during the day, and we have less
hair on the back of the couch too!