HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: bdboyle@erenj.com (Bryan D. Boyle)
Subject: Re: Three wheelin' Fool..
Organization: Exxon Research and Engineering Co., NJ
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 16:13:22 GMT

In article <1993Jan27.171444.22459@tse.uucp> mattias@tse.uucp (Mattias Hembruch x0830) writes:
>In article <1993Jan26.004552.26319@galileo.cc.rochester.edu> tgpt_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Tom Guptill) writes:
>>In <25JAN199316320988@zeus.tamu.edu> jmm2948@zeus.tamu.edu (Jeffrey M. Mayzurk) writes:
>>
>>>fine German (maybe Italian) marque, and not one of those rice-burners that
>>
>>	Sorry for the pointless digression, but when I hear the phrase
>>'Italian automobile' the first thing that springs to mind is the Fiat
>>Strada.  Is there something I'm missing?  (Have you ever tried to get
>>parts for a Fiat Strada?  I couldn't even find a mechanic who would
>>*touch* mine!)
>>				Tom
>>-- 
>>| Tom Guptill           | tgpt_ltd@cc.rochester.edu (internet) |
>>| CPU Box 277445 U of R | tgpt_ltd@uordbv (bitnet)             |
>>| Rochester NY 14627    |                                      |
>>| (716) 274-0156        |                                      |
>
>
>I believe the reference was to fine German/Italian cars.. Fine German cars are
>Porsche, BMW, Benz, and VW. Fine Italian would be: Ferrari and Lamborghini.
>Where's Bugatti from? 


I believe Bugatti was a French manufacturer...
(not that this has anything to do with VWs...:-))


-- 
\   Bryan D. Boyle            \           _         ______ |
 \  Senior Engineer            \        /   \___-=0`/|0`/__|
  \ Exxon Research & Engineering\_______   N7068W  / | /    )
  / 908 730-3338                /        `/-==__ _/__|/__=-|
From: mferdows@aludra.usc.edu (Mehrzad Ferdows)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: VW GTI hubcaps.
Date: 24 Jan 1993 12:43:44 -0800
Organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA
NNTP-Posting-Host: aludra.usc.edu


	Some jerk ripped off one of my '92 GTI 16v hubcaps a while ago
(the BBS ones), and I've been looking around everywhere for a new one with
no luck. The dealer wants $60 for ONE hubcap (screw that!).

	Anyone have any ideas as to where I can look? (anyone selling one?)
thanx.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: Re: Best service manuals?
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 23:52:46 GMT

In article <C1IyKt.LA@apollo.hp.com>, heff@apollo.HP.COM (Jeff Oesterle) writes:
>
>(Is there a FAQ file for this group?)
>
>Having just bought a GTI, I'd like to know which service manual
>would be best.  Bentley, Haynes, VW ??

Bentley = VW - Probably the best when it comes to pure technical
advice, etc on Volkswagen products. Its the "official" VW
version as to how things are done.

Haynes - Generally good, they base their manuals on a strip down
and rebuild of the car covered in the manual. Major problem is
the Haynes for the GTI/Golf also covers Rabbit/Jetta, etc from
1975 thru the Golf/Jetta 1990, which means you may have to
wade through extraneous stuff, and may lack certain details
found in Bentley.

Idiot Book for Watercooled - eventhough not directly on point 
for Golf/Jetta, many procedures for Rabbit, etc work on
later cars (providing of course you have a "back up"
manual which covers Golf/Jetta)

Chilton Manual - Now that Sears is going out of the Catalogue
business, here is the ideal replacement for the paper which
serves the "little house behind the big house". Manuals are
crap, illustrations within the contents may be for other
cars, makes, etc. STAY AWAY....STAY AWAY....

One can NEVER have too many manuals. I have found that by
doing a little research, you can find a "better" way
of doing a particular job by looking thru a couple of
manuals before doing the repair. (ie: the diagrams for
constructing the clutch centering tool in the Idiot
book vs. the recomendation for using VW tool #----
in the Bentley book).

Read on!
Ric


>
>Thanks.
>
>-- 
>Jeff Oesterle
>
>================
>"No, I don't know that atheists should be considered as citizens, 
>nor should they be considered patriots.  This is one nation under God."
>                                         - George Bush
>"<choke> <cough> Say WHAT?!?!?!?"
>"Hey, at least he's not President anymore."
>================
>
>(Disclaim, disclaim, disclaim.)
From: jspinnow@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (John Stewart Pinnow)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: B.Y.O.B Bring Your Own Bugs VW Club
Date: 21 Jan 1993 20:27:15 GMT
Organization: Computing Services Division, University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
Distribution: milw
NNTP-Posting-Host: 129.89.7.4
Originator: jspinnow@csd4.csd.uwm.edu

If your interested in finding about the one of the Clubs in Milwaukee
area send me a message.

Or Call the President himself:

	Donald J. Pinnow
	B.Y.O.B Car Club
	(414) 761-1537
	Call After 4:00pm

-- 
Tmoh Research |Inet: jspinnow@csd4.csd.uwm.edu | U.S Postal: Ask
John S. Pinnow|      jspinnow@netcom.netcom.com| AT&T PHONE: (414) 761-1537 
Milwaukee, WI |       jpinnow@world.std.com    | These are just my opinions.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: squiec@jec312.its.rpi.edu (Craig L. Squier)
Subject: Re: [W] Corrado for '94 ?
Reply-To: squiec@rpi.edu
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY.
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 20:21:12 GMT

In article <1993Jan21.073647.1555@usceast.cs.scarolina.edu>, u_mitro@mv3800.engr.scarolina.edu (John Mitropoulos) writes:
|> Does anyone know if the '94 Corrado will sport an AirBag? I understand that it 
|> will get a completely new skin job for '95. Does anyone know anything about this
|> besides what was printed in Road &  Track?
|>                                                thanks,
|>                                              --john--
|> 
   European Car had a tidbit in one of the later issues. They had a picture
  (sketch) too. It looked way-cool!!! I'll go home and look at the issue.
   Email me if you want the issue/page etc...

Hope it helps............................               -Craig
From: Ralph.C.Lindenfeld@dartmouth.edu (Ralph C. Lindenfeld)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: (w) '83 Rabbit - hole on top of my intake manifold
Date: 25 Jan 93 20:20:36 GMT
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH
X-Posted-From: InterNews1.0b3@newshost.dartmouth.edu

hole in intake manifold- If I recall correctly, the rabbit manifold is
cast aluminum.. or is it cast iron- at any rate, there's folks who can
weld either.
what I'd do is splooge a bit of high temp silicone gasket compound into
and around the hole, after cleaning thoroughly- then keep an eye on it.

Ralph Lindenfeld
1960 VW Panelvan
From: sweather@milton.u.washington.edu (Steve Weatherford)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Question about Vanagon Exhaust (EGR filter)
Date: 26 Jan 93 22:23:52 GMT
Article-I.D.: shelley.1k4dloINNakq
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
NNTP-Posting-Host: milton.u.washington.edu

I have a question about the EGR filter in my vanagon.  

If I bypass it, does engine performance suffer?  Does it REALLY
reduce emissions?  The vanagon is originally from California, but its
now in Washington State - Im not sure how the emissions laws are different -
I still havent taken it for a smog test.  

Also, while Im at it, what 3rd part heaters (propane) do people like to install
in vanagons - my engine heater just doesn't do it (has something to do with my
lack of a thermosata cable to my cooling flaps...) and can anyone recommend a
good mechanic in the Seattle, WA area?

Thanks


sweather@milton.u.washington.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: Re: HELP Oil PRessure!
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 15:15:18 GMT

In article <1jm9iuINN8up@jhunix.hcf.jhu.edu>, nils@jhunix.hcf.jhu.edu (Nils Gokemeijer) writes:
>Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
>Subject: Help! Oil pressure problem.
>Summary: 
>Followup-To: 
>Distribution: world
>Organization: Homewood Academic Computing, Johns Hopkins University, Baltimore, Md, USA
>Keywords: 
>
>I have a 85 GTI, 94000 Miles and I have the following problem:
>My Oil pressure light plus buzzer come on once in a while.
>For say two seconds orso.
>Even at idle.
>I always push in the clutch, and release the gas paddle and stop next to 
>the road. But before I get to that the buzz is gone and the light is off.
>So I keep driving.
>
>Isn't the buzzer only supposed to work above 2000 RPM?
>Does that mean that there is a problem in the electrical system then?
>
>I changed Oil, and Filter, it was time to do that anyway, and
>I tightened the belts somewhat. Also cleaned the low pressure switch,
>will clean high pressure switch soon. Still have the problem so far.
>
>Offcourse when trying to fix it, the light will not come on.
>
>Anybody any suggestions please?
>
>
>-Nils
>
>
The Bentley manual has a procedure for checking the buzzer system.
Unfortunately, I don't have the manual at the office. If someone
out there has the manual handy, could you transmit the info. If 
not, Nils, send me e-mail to remind me to look it up tonight.

There are possibly two problems you will have if its not the
switch.....low oil pressure caused by excessive wear, or a
blockage or restriction in the oil system, then again there's
a third...bad oil pump (either gears or pressure relief valve).

I had a similar problem which is somewhat easy to trace if you
don't find the switches at fault. The plastic baffle around the
oil pump intake had fallen off and subsequently got chewed up
by the crank, etc. The pieces eventually got sucked into the
screen at the oil pump intake. Eventually I got no oil pressure
at idle and up to about 1500 rpm. To check it, drop the oil
pan.

Ric





>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: sircomp@bcarh289.bnr.ca (Brian Magee)
Subject: Re: The FIRE breathing bug!  Help!clo
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 93 23:59:15 GMT

Sorry about the last 3 posts.. my news machine seems to have gone
crazy!
later...
			Rob
 
--
---
"We are sorry, the .sig you have reached is no longer in service"
From: ilh@lcs.mit.edu (Lee Hetherington)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Door Handles are a Pain in the *@!
Date: 27 Jan 93 11:26:29
Organization: MIT/LCS Spoken Language Systems
Distribution: na
Reply-To: ilh@lcs.mit.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: chicago.ai.mit.edu
In-reply-to: bill@tss.com's message of 27 Jan 93 10:03:26 GMT

In article <C1IBxq.DDs@tss.com> bill@tss.com (Bill Castellano) writes:
   no problem. my gti16v passenger's door did this, just take the lock
   apart by prying off the chrome or black cover plate on the handle,
   and removing the bolt from inside the door. it's a stupid design
   that invites theft by prying a screwdriver through the door and
   pressing down on the latch inside of the door. just take it apart
   and look at it... it's easy to see. anyway, by realigning
   everything, and adding lots of wd40 spray, it can be reassembled so
   that it works fine.

   consider it periodic maintenance.  give it a try! only takes 5
   minutes.

If you use (white) lithium grease instead of WD40, the maintainance
won't be quite as periodic.  BTW, did anybody ever notice that the
word "lubricate" doesn't appear anywhere on a can of WD40?  It
penetrates well, but doesn't lubricate well or very long.
--

                                Lee Hetherington
                                ilh@lcs.mit.edu
From:  (Chris Bracken)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: [w] Vanagon water pump
Date: 20 Jan 93 22:39:04 GMT

I have an 87 Vanagon with 95K miles; my water pump is squealing, not leaking yet.  The 
pump was replaced at 45K miles ( when the cracked heads were replaced ! ). Is this
the normal lifetime of the pump on a waterboxer, or am I just a lucky guy?

My Bentley gives a concise 1 page picture series on replacing the pump; anyone out 
there done this and have words of wisdom for me?


				Thanks,

					Chris Bracken
					ucsd!xlnt!chris or chris@xlnt.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: amjewe01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu
Subject: Re: [A]Speed! (or what passes for it...)
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 22:47:33 GMT
Organization: University of Louisville

In article <C172y0.L7t@news.cso.uiuc.edu>, mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu (Real Life?!?! HA!!) writes:
> A friend of min recently bought a '62 Beetle. 
> Anyway, my question:  Assuming a 1600cc engine in very good shape
> attached to a new tranny, what is the highest speed we can drive it on the
> freeway for extended periods without worry?

> Michael T. Chaffee  

I have a 1974 1600cc in my (multi-year) beetle.  I routinely drive between 
Louisville, KY and Evansville, IN which is about 150 miles.  The road is
fairly flat, but has some hills, and I do 75 all the way.  I try to keep from 
driving faster than 75 mph, but I have a slightly heavy foot.  She does 80 
with a smile.  I've even had her up to 90 just to see if she could
(I was going downhill, though!!!)  I don't like driving her any faster than
75 because I don't think its good on the engine.

As far as engine year, there's a set of numbers/letters on the case (on the 
right-hand side when looking at the pulleys).  Take this set of numbers and 
look in the idiot book.  I think the other manuals have the list of engine 
numbers as well.

anna
From: keys@starchild.ncsl.nist.gov (Lawrence B. Keys)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: [W] Tires for Corrado SLC
Date: 28 Jan 93 14:02:15 GMT
Organization: National Institute of Standards & Technology

In article <sysop.374.0@elan.rowan.edu> sysop@elan.rowan.edu (Ken Denton (Supervisor)) writes:
>
>	I am the proud owner of a 92 Corrado SLC with almost 24k miles on 
>the clock.  Due to excessive exuberance on my part, I need to get some new 
>tires for the front (the rears are sure to follow soon).  Unfortunately, the 
>OEM tires are *almost* impossible to get from anyplace else besides the 
>dealer (who charges over $300/ea).  The cheapest price I've been able to get 
>was around $225, but I'd have to wait for them to come from the Fatherland.
>
>	Does anyone have a recommendation for a different tire that would 
>work well?  I'd like to keep the same size (205/50VR15).  I've previously 
>had an '86 GTI with the Pirelli P600s which I liked (enough to replace the 
>Yokahamas on my CRX with them when the time came), but they don't come in 
>the size I need.
>
>	Some of the alternative could be: Goodyear Eagle VR50, Pirelli P7, 
>Michelin XGV(?), Bridgestone RE71.  Anyone have some help with this problem? 
>Thanks in advance.

My car doesn't use the same size tire as you car does but you may want
to consider the Dunlop D40 M2, that's what i bought.  My OEM tires were
Michelin MXV2 185/55 15".  My new tires are 195/50 15"s and they are 
excellent dry and wet weather tires.

BTW, for the price the dealer is asking you could buy a set of Pirelli
PZero's, although, they probably only get about 10K miles. :)

                                                  .  
                                                 /                
Larry                            __/    _______/_                 
keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov       /                  \               
                          _____     __     _____    \------- ===
            ----------- / ____/   /  /   /__  __/              \
         /     ___    /  / ___   /  /      / /    ____          |
        |    /      \/ /__ /  | /  /__  __/ /__ /       \      / 
        /___         \_______/ /_____/ /______/            ====OO
            \       /                           \       /         
                -                                   -
       ---------------- FAHRVERGNUGEN FOREVER! --------------------            
            The fact that I need to explain it to you indicates
            that you probably wouldn't understand anyway!
       ------------------------------------------------------------
From: nils@jhunix.hcf.jhu.edu (Nils Gokemeijer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: HELP Oil PRessure!
Date: 21 Jan 1993 08:48:14 -0500
Organization: Homewood Academic Computing, Johns Hopkins University, Baltimore, Md, USA
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: jhunix.hcf.jhu.edu

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Help! Oil pressure problem.
Summary: 
Followup-To: 
Distribution: world
Organization: Homewood Academic Computing, Johns Hopkins University, Baltimore, Md, USA
Keywords: 

I have a 85 GTI, 94000 Miles and I have the following problem:
My Oil pressure light plus buzzer come on once in a while.
For say two seconds orso.
Even at idle.
I always push in the clutch, and release the gas paddle and stop next to 
the road. But before I get to that the buzz is gone and the light is off.
So I keep driving.

Isn't the buzzer only supposed to work above 2000 RPM?
Does that mean that there is a problem in the electrical system then?

I changed Oil, and Filter, it was time to do that anyway, and
I tightened the belts somewhat. Also cleaned the low pressure switch,
will clean high pressure switch soon. Still have the problem so far.

Offcourse when trying to fix it, the light will not come on.

Anybody any suggestions please?


-Nils
From: ctempel@ep.ieee.org (C Tempel)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Elec. Ignition Module
Date: 27 Jan 93 21:36:15 GMT
Organization: IEEE, New York, NY


   FOR SALE

   Electronic Ignition Module for an '82 Jetta.
   Brand new.
   Paid $100...will take best offer.
 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca (Andy)
Subject: Re: Fact or Dealer B.S. - You be the Judge
Organization: Math, Stats & CS, Dalhousie University, Halifax, NS, Canada
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 21:54:16 GMT

In <1993Jan21.184833.28637@gumby.dsd.trw.com> Judson West <jwest@r3vm.dsd.trw.com> writes:

>I was recently had my '90 Passat in the shop (for the 4th time) for
>transmission problems. When I was driving with the Service Manager and
>explaining the situation I asked what had been done the last time my
>car was in for the same problem. He said that the transmission
>computer memory had been "reset". I asked him to explain what "reset"
>ment. He explained that after a while, the computer "remembers" your
>driving habits and adjusts its shifting patterns to take better
>advantage of them. This is above and beyond either Economy or Sport
>modes.
>Is this fact or fiction??

If you ask me I think it is B.S. because 1) I never heard of such a feature
2) If it was that great, I'm sure it would be highly advertised
3) My friend has a synchro and he knows all about the passat and he never
mentioned any thing like this to me.

ANdy
-- 
---....-------------****----*******-) GTI FUN-atic                      o  
--. \/ .-----GTI---******--*********)         Don't forget to bike:     ,-\
--.\/\/.-----------******--*********)  (and sail and windsurf and ski)  0\-0
---....-------------****----*******-) gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca,goaway@ac.dal.ca
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Re: [A]Speed! (or what passes for it...)
Keywords: vw beetle driving
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 20:00:16 GMT

In article <C172y0.L7t@news.cso.uiuc.edu>, mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu (Real Life?!?! HA!!) writes:
|> A friend of min recently bought a '62 Beetle.  Since he bought it, he dis-
|> covered a trashed first motion shaft bearing, and burned valves, so it was
|> new-trans-and-head-rebuild time.  The engine is not original, and we have no
|> idea of the year, only that it is a 1600cc.  I burns a little oil on startup
|> (big shock :) but does not burn any oil running, so presumably the rings etc.
|> are OK.  Anyway, my question:  Assuming a 1600cc engine in very good shape
|> attached to a new tranny, what is the highest speed we can drive it on the
|> freeway for extended periods without worry?
|> (I should mention that on a recent trip from Chicago to central Wisconsin, we
|> cruised between 60 and 70 without any apparent trouble.)

The air-cooled engines are sort of self-limiting in their stock forms.
Probably you could get to 75-80 under ideal conditions.  As far as engine
durability, I would use the "trimmed" throttle approach:

With the ags peddle floored bring the car up to the speed of interest, then
slowly trim back the throttle.  If the engine/trans/road conditions are well
balanced, the car will continue to hold that set speed even as you let up
a little.  This also increases fuel economy noticeably.  If letting up a little
gives a dramatic drop in speed, then it is not an optimum running point.

All my air-cooled VW's were run at about 90% throttle using this method without
any noticeable problems.  My bugs liked about 60-70, and my Ghia's liked about
70-80.  

The real issue for highest speed has to do with the condition of the rest of the
car: tires, suspension, shocks, brakes, etc.  The older bugs were not really
designed as stable high speed cars.

Mark
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: dans@panix.com (Dan Simoes)
Subject: [w] problems shifting into 1st
Organization: Panix Public Access Internet & Unix, NYC
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 18:58:24 GMT

Our 82 Jetta 5speed is now refusing to shift into 1st gear.
I changed the tranny oil to a synthetic, sprayed the linkage inside and
under the car with white grease, but it was still intermittent.
WHen it refused to go in, if I forced it to, it would go in.
Now, it won't go at all.  My guess is the bushings for 1st are shot.

I remember not too long ago someone posted their experience with this
same problem.  Could anyone who saved it sent it to me?  I promise
I'll stick it in the archives... :-)

| Dan |
-- 
Dan Simoes                                       Voice: 914.747.2900 x415
Danix Consulting                                 email: dans@panix.com or
Yorktown Heights, NY                                     dans@danix.uucp
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: "tom neumann" <tom.neumann@canrem.com>
Subject: [w] traction control
Reply-To: "tom neumann" <tom.neumann@canrem.com>
Organization: Canada Remote Systems
Distribution: rec
Date: 25 Jan 93 08:21:58 EST


andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang) writes:

AJ>Does anybody understand the new traction control mechanisms?  I've got
AJ>the Passat GLX brochures that describes it only as a low speed
AJ>traction control system.  Presumably this means that when in snow or
AJ>such it prevents wheel slippage (by applying brakes on slipping
AJ>wheel???).  Is this correct?

If the system sees one wheel spinning at 120rpm (I think, not sure
on exact number) higher than the other and the car is doing less
than about 40KMpH, then the system will lightly apply the brakes
to that wheel to slow it down. [The system includes heat sensors so
that the brakes will not overheat.]

I took a Passat VR6 out for a drive in the last major snow storm we
had in Toronto and if you looked for it you could feel it working but
mainly you just noticed that the car went instead of just spinning in
the snow. Note that the system does NOT try and stop you from
spinning BOTH wheels if you so desire - you can burn all the rubber
you want from a light if you are that way inclined - but helps a lot
in situations where one wheel has some traction and the other little
or none.

AJ> Does this mean that I will not be able
AJ>to exit tight parallel parking spaces by applying handbrake, turning
AJ>the steering wheel and spinning the front tires?  (This is sort of a
AJ>reverse "J" turn).

No, the system doesn't stop you from doing this at all.

Tom Neumann
---
  DeLuxe 1.25 #350  I sell Volkswagens.
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044