HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: andy@b30.ingr.com (Andrew Brezinski)
Subject: Re: CLUB Story
Organization: Intergraph
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 19:52:25 GMT

In article <Sep01.151047.78227@yuma.ACNS.ColoState.EDU> johnc@yuma.acns.colostate.edu (John Cooley) writes:
>
>Despite advertisements to the contrary, "police departments"  (whatever that
>might mean) do NOT endorse the CLUB or similar devices.  Regardless of the
>quality of the lock, professional thieves don't even bother with it.  They
>simply cut the plastic rim of the steering wheel and remove the device.
>
>If your CLUB-equipped car hasn't been stolen, it's simply because nobody
>wanted it badly enough yet.  By the time they go to the trouble of breaking
>in, the CLUB is no deterrent.
>
>   John Cooley

Just one data point, 

The dealer that sold my dad his last car also sold him on the idea of the
CLUB.

It seems that they (the dealer) were having a problem with cars being
stolen (about two a month, rural NW Ohio).  Since they started putting CLUBs
in their cars, thefts were virtually eliminated.

Andy Brezinski
Intergraph Corporation
Huntsville, AL 35894-0001
From: Michel_Denber.WBST147@XEROX.COM
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Windshield chip repair ???
Date: 1 Sep 92 14:12:00 GMT


	"I actually want it to fix a chip in my 26" TV screen"

My wife was driving through a construction zone one time where they were doing
welding on an overpass.  Just as she went by, a welding spark landed on the
windshield and melted a little crater about the size of a dime in it.  We had
it filled in by one of these repair outfits and it's been fine for over 3 years
now.  It's still smooth and the damage hasn't spread.  It *isn't* totally
clear, but it's on the passenger side out of the driver's line of sight, so we
don't really care.

I don't know about trying to repair a TV screen though.  It takes a lot of
force to put a chip in one of those.  A local car dealer wanted to make a
commercial a while ago showing him throwing a baseball through a TV set at home
plate (to illustrate how he "blasted high prices" or some such nonsense).  He
did make the news, but not the way he hoped.  They showed him hurling one ball
after another at the TV, which just sat there.  If it had been a player, it
would have had about eight walks before he gave up.  They finally had to score
the screen with a glass cutter to get it to break.

Uh, so anyway, the point is that if your screen has been hit hard enough to
damage it, I'd be concerned whether it's still safe.  Especially big screens.
The CRT will admittedly implode if broken, but then all that glass shrapnel
will bounce right back out with considerable force.  Caveat viewor.

			- Michel

denber.wbst147@xerox.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rick@posms.cactus.org (Rick Kirchhof)
Subject: Re: Cleaning spark plugs??
Organization: Department of Redundancy Dept., Austin
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 03:26:53 GMT

In article <fagundes.715201152@pv1649.vincent.iastate.edu> fagundes@iastate.edu (Alex Fagundes) writes:
>Hi,
>  Is there a way to clean spark plugs??  My plugs are getting some crap
>all over then about every 3 months;  this is probably because my car
>is also leaking a LOT of oil :(
> Thanks.
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>|  Alex Fagundes -         Proud owner of a 76 Maverick :) and another      | 
>|  fagundes@iastate.edu  -          believer that AMIGA rules               | 
>-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
Yes, but it requires a spark plug sandblaster, compressed air, and the
plug must have the center electrode filed flat, and regapped.

I did quite a bit of this is years past.  One caution, the resistor
that is internal to a resistor spark plug will expire after a time
causing the _appearance_ of a misfire or oil consumption problem.  You
can usually clean non-resistor plugs a number of times, but _always_ use
an anti-seize lubricant on the threads when reinstalling any spark plug
that is not new.

All in all, you will have better luck cleaning the engine with a top
engine cleaner to reduce the blowby.  All of the above assumes that your
ignition system adequate or more and is properly adjusted.

E-mail me is you would like details.

>


-- 
Rick Kirchhof   Austin, Texas                   | Experience is what you
Domain: rick@posms.cactus.org                   | get when you don't
Bang path: ...!cs.utexas.edu!peyote!posms!rick  | get what you want.            
===========================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: knightf@infonode.ingr.com (Frank Knight)
Subject: Need Louver Sources!
Organization: Intergraph Corporation, Huntsville, AL.
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 20:37:13 GMT

I'm looking for some aluminum louvers for a 1980 Plymouth
(mitsubishi) Sapporo.  J.C.W. did carry them but discontinued
recently.  If anyone knows of more sources please e-mail.

Tks, Frank
From: dpl@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (douglas.p.linden)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Paint Overspray Removal
Date: 4 Sep 92 18:03:42 GMT
Article-I.D.: cbnewsl.1992Sep4.180342.3984
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories

In article <D2150040.cnnvu4@destiny.howtek.UUCP>, paul@howtek.UUCP (Paul Rothenberg) writes:
> Any suggestions for removing automotive paint overspray from a
> windshield without scratching the glass?


A little lacquer thinner on a rag should do just fine.
No lacquer thinner around, then use nail polish remover.
From: v087mxgb@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (Shawn E Thompson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Mysterious Sunbird Problem...Advice?
Date: 26 Aug 92 15:25:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <92238.154541SRV101@psuvm.psu.edu>, SRV101@psuvm.psu.edu (Steve VanOrmer) writes...
>has persisted for the last month. When driving on the open highway my engine cu
>ts out rather abruptly for a split second. This seems to happen when I'm travel
>ing between 55 - 65 MPH and am traveling on an inclined road. So far I have tri

I had the *same* problem (only it was very random and not
always on aninclined road).


My problem was a shorted hot lead wire to the coil, when the car 
was leaning just right at about the right speed the wire would
swing around and short out, cutting the ignition for a split
second...took *forever* to figure out...I fairly certain thats
your problem.


The wire might not necessarily be loose, just shorting or 
failing to conduct. Problem is, its hard to convinve a mechanic
to look under the hood with a continuity tester while your
car's going 60 MPH :-)



good luck.....



Shawn E. Thompson                         | Project Engineer/Mgr  (716)891-3375
v087mxgb@ubvms.cc.buffalo.edu             | Leica, Incorporated
University @ Buffalo                      | PO Box 123
Graduate School of Mechanical Engineering | Buffalo, NY 14240-0123
------------------------------------------+-----------------------------------
"Nothin ever grows in this rotten old hole, and everthing is stunted and lost..
and nothin really rocks n nothin really rolls and nothin's ever worth the cost"
                                                               --- Meatloaf
From: jongsma@esseye.si.com (Ken Jongsma)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: GM 2.8L V6 oil leaks
Date: 30 Aug 92 00:21:39 GMT
Reply-To: jongsma@benzie.si.com
Distribution: usa
Organization: Smiths Industries

In <92241.110359MREED@UCF1VM.BITNET> MREED@UCF1VM.BITNET writes:

>I'm not sure what the problem is, but GM doesn't seem to be interested
>in fixing the problem. I have a '89 Olds Cutlass Supreme w/2.8l V6
>54k miles. The valve covers are secured by 4 torque drive bolts.
>The thing leaks oil around the valve covers like nothing I've ever
>seen and I don't even want think of changing the gaskets myself.
>If there is an easy way of doing it, or changing the rear spark
>plugs I'd really appreciate the info. So far I haven't been able
>to locate a maintenance and repair manual for it.

I'd call Helm, Inc. and order the official factory manuals for your
car/engine. I just ordered a set for my 92 Chevy S-10. Wow. For
$43 I was expecting something like those 8x10 Chilton manuals
you see at K-mart. Instead I get 3 books the size of the Chicago
yellow pages. One's a chasis service manual, one's a unit repair
manual (engine, transmission, etc) and one's a set of electrical
prints. They threw in a listing of all available service bullitens
at no charge, after I asked about those.

The number was in my owner's manual. Apparently GM uses them to publish
all their books. If you can't find the 800 number, try calling them
at +1 313 883-1430.

Oh, the books contain very complete troubleshooting procedures...

Ken
-- 
Ken Jongsma                                          ken@wybbs.mi.org
Smiths Industries                               jongsma@benzie.si.com
Grand Rapids, Michigan                      73115.1041@compuserve.com
From: little_re@lrc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: What's a good one??? was Re: CLUB Story
Date: 2 Sep 92 09:26:06 EDT
Organization: Lenoir-Rhyne College, Hickory, NC

> one fitted.  If you really don't want your car (stolen by driving
> away), make sure it's locked, has a club on the wheel, a high
> quality alarm that disables the car, is is not parked in a bad place and you 
> have the lead from the coil in your back pocket, and is filthy dirty with
> mud and other crud all over it :-).


    Allright, so what is the best way to deter a thief??  I've considered
a Club-type device, but like someone said earlier, just cut the steering
wheel.  I've considered an alarm, but don't have the money right now.  
Is there a good, inexpensive way to make a thief look at somebody else's
car??

--
Rich Little		
LITTLE_RE@LRC.EDU	A hotrodder is someone who is completely 
Lenoir-Rhyne College	baffled by people who are NOT into cars!
Hickory, NC		

From: genet@hplsla.hp.com (Gene Taylor)
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 15:38:03 GMT
Subject: Re: What is a carbeurator duty solenoid ?
Organization: HP Lake Stevens, WA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

>Can any of you auto wizards tell me what a "duty solenoid" is and where it
>is located ? My mechanic said that it was causing me a bucking problem when
>accelerating from a stop at lower rpm. It should be on the carbeurator
>somewhere, and be involved in emission control. I have an 87 Doge Charger.
>
>Jim

These carbs have a gas source besides the jets that opens up when more
power is needed.  This source is controlled by a valve that is either
all the way open or all the way closed.  It's controlled by the solenoid
in question.  To get flow rates between all or nothing, they cycle the
valve open and closed rapidly, controlling how much of the time it's
open versus closed.  This ratio is called the duty cycle.  If the
solenoid (a device that converts electrical signals into mechanical
movement something like a motor) has either electrical or mechanical
problems, it has a direct effect on the gas flow rate.

To find it on the carb, look for two wires going to a piece that is
held on to the carb with two screws.  If you take the screws out, a
cylinder about 1" long will pull up out of the body of the carb.  That's
the duty solenoid valve.  On my `86 Omni it was on the left side of the 
main body of the carb as you stood facing the car from the front.

-Gene
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: fagundes@iastate.edu (Alex Fagundes)
Subject: Mustangs 4 speed transmission prices??
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames IA
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 23:59:35 GMT

                                                                  
Hi,                                                               
  A friend of mine is thinking about replacing his 3 speed manual 
transmission with a 4 speed manual transmission.  He is wondering 
how much a 4 speed transmission for a 66 mustang might cost.  Could
someone give me a rough estimate?                                             
thanx...

*******************************************************************************
*  Alex Fagundes -         Proud owner of a 76 Maverick :) and another        *
*  fagundes@iastate.edu  -          believer that AMIGA rules                 *
*******************************************************************************
From: jbarker@jbarker.cc.vt.edu (John Barker)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: 88 Jeep Cherokee Limited questions
Keywords: Brakes racing engine
Date: 26 Aug 92 14:03:31 GMT

I have a few questions regarding an 88 Jeep Cherokee and I wondered if  
anybody else had any of these problems and how they might be addressed.	

1.  The engine randomly races when the car is started, I have talked to  
several other owners and they have experienced this also, might I add that  
it has not been fixed in any of them.	

2.  The brakes don't seem to work like I think they should.  They pass  
inspection and look O.K., but it is like they get hot or something and  
son't seem to do the job.  I don't know if they are not in sync with the  
back brakes or what. Example, coming off steep grades riding them hard	in  
curves etc. they seem to fade in performance.

3.  I have also noticed some clear coat on the car getting cloudy white, 
is this a recallable thing or just my tough luck.  The car is only 5 years  
old and on the top of the front fendors and up close to the wipers it is  
very cloudy.	

Thanks for any input.
From: klee2@uoft02.utoledo.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Toyota Celica ST, 2SE engine idle speed
Date: 25 Aug 92 16:20:57 EST
Organization: University of Toledo, Computer Services

To Whom It May Concerned:

This is epsode III on some problem about Toyota 2SE engine.
The 1st epsode was about the Pickup Coil, I had it replaced yesterday,
and posted the 2nd to thank those people who helped me.
This post is about the idle speed of the idle fluctuation.
After I replaced the Pickup Coil, I hooked up a techometer as well as a
timing gun to the engine for a timing check. Both of these devices are
of inductive type, that is, their signal pichup is clamped to the spark
wire. There is a service connector for a different type of techo, though.
I observer some drop (for a very very short duration) in the idle speed
in between of normal (steady) rpm from the techo. The normal revolution
lasts maybe for 20 seconds each time before a miss.
I called the delar today, some mechanocs said it's normal for a 2SE
engine to have some idle fluctuation (?). <---This is my firat question.

My second question is when I depressed the brake pedal, the idle speed
dropped by around 100 rpm (?). 

And the third question is about the idle up when A/C is on. I observed that
when I turn A/C on, the idle speed jumps up to 1200 rpm before the room
temperature goes down. But on some other type of cars, the idle speed
would maintain the specified, for example, a Honda Accord automatic,
the idle speed is at 800 rpm, with or without A/C on. Could this
be different methods were used to compensate heavy loads? 


Your advise will be appreciated.

Regards,

KLee

BTW. I am going to check the brake vacuum booster leakage tonight.
 

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: yhcrana@intelhf.hf.intel.com (Karl Brown)
Subject: Throw-out bearing replacement
Organization: Intel Corp., Hillsboro, Oregon
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 92 20:13:31 GMT

I just purchased a 1980 Fiat Spider 2000, and have noticed that when I
push the clutch in, a slight rattling/whining is heard.  All of the
Fiat mechanics I've talked to tell me that I need to replace the
throw-out bearing, which is only a $20 part, with the added price tag
of $250 for labor to drop the transmission out.  Since I am low on
cash, I am thinking about doing this myself.  My question is this:

      a) Having never done it, or anything like this before, am I safe
      doing it alone and just using a Hanes manual as my guide?
      
      b) Can I really screw things up pretty badly if I do something
      less than completely stupid, i.e. can a small mistake wreck my
      car?

The reason I want to try to drop the tranny myself is not only to save
money, but to learn about how my car works, and since it is a Fiat I
can see myself working on it often.  Is this a good first project, or
should I just shell out the 300 bucks and have a professional do it?

Any advice is welcome.

Thanks,

Karl
-- 
yhcrana@hfglobe.intel.com          | "I am as free as nature first made man
-----------------------------------|  Ere the base laws of servitude began
 "Do or do not.  There is no try." |  When wild in woods the noble savage ran"
From: gv9j@vax5.cit.cornell.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: How Fast is a Top Fueler???
Date: 26 Aug 92 09:23:00 EDT
Distribution: rec
Organization: Cornell University

Does anyone know what the acceleration curve for a typical Top Fuel dragster
is?
>
I saw the NHRA Northwest nationals in Seattle, and did some timing.
>
They did the first 60 ft in .9 sec, meaning 4.6g's average, so peak
acceleration is something higher than this.
>
They did 1/4 mile in 4.9 sec, meaning an avg of 3.41 g.
>
They got up to 295 mph in 4.9 sec, acceleration of 2.74g average.
>
Therefore, their actual acceleration is high at low speed, somewhere above
these average values, and something lower than average at the finish line.
(Kind of neat how they can do better than 1g with no aerodynamic downforce at
the line)
(I hear they get 800lb downforce from exhaust pressure, 1900lb car.)
>
Does anyone have a complete curve?
                              gv9j@vax5.cit.cornell.edu
From: larrigan@eeserv.ee.umanitoba.ca (John Larrigan)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Exhaust Manifold Stud Removal
Date: 28 Aug 92 03:48:09 GMT
Organization: University of Manitoba, Winnipeg, Canada

jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger) writes:

>>There are special stud removing tools.  Sears Craftsman has one and I'm
>>sure Snap-on does also.  I goes on a 1/2" drive ratchet or breaker bar and
>>uses a seraited cam to grip the stud.  
>>
> I tried one of these and was disappointed. In aluminum however you may have
>better luck. Or not, if the stud snapped on account of being into the water
>jacket and corroded so badly that it -can't- fit back out the hole it came
>in.

Thanks for your responce.  I have never used one of these stud removers,
only seen them in cataloges.  Soooo don't go and buy one on my recommendation.

John L.
From: pshyvers@pyrnova.mis.pyramid.com (Peter Shyvers)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: dirty spark plugs
Date: 3 Sep 92 22:17:01 GMT
Reply-To: pshyvers@pyrnova.pyramid.com (Peter Shyvers)
Organization: Pyramid Technology Corp., Mountain View, CA
Originator: daemon@sword.eng.pyramid.com

In article <1992Sep3.152926.2491@engage.pko.dec.com> sontakke@helix.enet.dec.com (Vikas Sontakke) writes:
>
>In article <92246.132941QXF1@psuvm.psu.edu>, <QXF1@psuvm.psu.edu> writes...
>>I got some problem with my 82 Civic. The car runs well but the spark plug of
>>4th cylinder gets dirty really quickly. The new plug got black and greasy only
>>after 10 days when it was put on. I checked the compression, all cylinders were
>>good, about 200 psi. Spark plug cable was also checked, no breakage was found.

How long did you allow on the leakdown test?

>>Could someone kindly give me some suggestions to fix this problem?
>>Thanks in advance.
>
>Valve seal/guide are leaking.  You might be able to see some blue smoke when you
>first start it in the morning.  
Agreed. Just make sure that it\s not in any way a fluffy,powdery coating. If
it's at all wet (give it a few minutes to air-dry in case it's fuel) then
you're getting valve-guide leakage - the valves have abraded the sides of
the passage that they follow thru the head. Oil seeps down between the
valve stem and the "guide", or passage - or rather, it's drawn, given the
intake manifold vacuum that's drawing the air/fuel mixture into the
cylinder. 
>
>Real solution is to fix the problem, but a spark-plug which is immune to oil
>fouling can dealy the inevitable for a long time.
>
Not worth your time. The unburned fuel/oil is poisoning your catalytic
converter and coating up your exhaust system. As the cylinder will 
inevitably contribute less power, the pause in power output causes wear
and tear all thru the drivetrain.
>
From: jrp@bohra.cpg.oz.au (John Pitman)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: disc brake rotors
Summary: disc brakes
Keywords: machining them
Date: 1 Sep 92 23:31:27 GMT
Organization: Computer Power Software

Hi there,
looking at a couple of the recent posts on disc brake rotors, the need to 
machine them on pad replacement, i thought i'd put in my 2c worth. In the past
30 years of driving, most of it on discs, (mostly english cars) I have only
been sucked into rotor machining once, and then the rumbling problem was the
bloody pads breaking up anyway! All the other pad replacements I have done, I
have just pulled the old ones out and pushed the new ones in (with a clean of 
the exposed piston surfaces before push back). sometimes they take a few days
to bed into the grooved surface of the disc. I have taken several cars to more
than 150000mls, several to 160000kms , usually replacing pads once a year at
least. And dont try to tell me they are harder/more $ to set up or build than
drums for the same stopping power!! The last big drum brake systems used (on
RR, ROver, MB etc) were power twin trailing shoe self adjusters that had to have
the new linings cut to the same radius as the newly machined drum (11" X " wide)
adjusted with a screw through the backplate to get the face of the lining 
parallel to the drum face etc. this sort of stuff in a brake shop usually took
all day with all the right equipment at hand, and a guy who knew what he was
doing. any idiot with a few kidneys can shange disc pads ( well maybe gravy is
needed as well if the calipers are swinging with captive pads). The only hard
ones I know are those that incorporate hand brakes in a funny way!
jp
From: xwu@ACSC.COM (Xinhua Wu)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Toyota Camry brakes and tires
Date: 26 Aug 92 20:28:25 GMT


My 2 1/2 year 30k mile Camry has recently developed the following
problem: the front left brake makes noise, some when the car moves
straight forward, worse when left turn, but none when right turn
or when I put my foot on brake pedal (either just slightly or harder).
I removed the tire to check and couldn't find anything wrong with
the brake.  The disc was still 6mm thick and was smooth.
Any ideas?

Also, am I NOT supposed to rotate radial tires left right?

Thanks a lot for any info,

-- 
Xinhua Wu
ACSC, Inc.
xwu@acsc.com
(310)815-4858
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: billb@geac.com (Bill Bain)
Subject: BMW computers
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 17:07:48 GMT
Organization: Geac Computer Corporation


   I have an 83 BMW 528e, and was thinking about modifying the programming
in the ignition/timing computer.  Any one have any thoughts on this?

   Specificaly, I'd like to advance the timing a bit, and smooth out the
rev limit cutoff.

Bill Bain
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech