HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: kcwong@ssd.kodak.com (K.C. Wong)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Recommendation on cold water fish
Date: 28 Dec 92 18:17:59 GMT
Reply-To: kcwong@ssd.kodak.com
Followup-To: rec.aquaria
Organization: Eastman Kodak Co.

In article 24587@rdg.dec.com, jessop@ljohub.enet.dec.com (Class Dinosauria) writes:
>
>>can stand temperatures between 68-72.  I have been told that tanichthys >albonubes 'White cloud Mountain fish' will suit my tank just fine.  They are >small, about the same size as most of the Tetra variety.  
>
>I wouldn't put a white cloud in it...  And definitely not a goldfish!
>Goldfish are not suited for small tanks.  I kepot a betta in an
>unheated tank at room temperature (72 f.)  He did very well!  At 72
>degrees, tho', I only fed him twice daily, and not much, at that.

Dear Class Dinosauria,

First of all, pleeeasssee insert newlines in your future postings.
Thank you.  Second, when you make a statement like "I wouldn't blah
blah blah..." it would be helpful to the readers if you can back it up
with facts. Why wouldn't you put White Cloud Minnows in a 2.5 gallon
tank? I'm keeping 2 adults and 7 juvenile White Cloud Minnows in an
unheated unaerated 5g tank with a clump a Java Moss in the middle and with
temperatures fluctuating from 68-72 degrees F. The fish are quite happy
and breeding.

A couple pairs of White Clouds are excellent choice for a 2.5 gallon tank. 
The other good candidates are a pair of Fundulopanchax Gardneri, or
a pair of Cynolebias Whitei, both are very hardy killifish.

-- KC
From: jessop@ljohub.enet.dec.com (Class Dinosauria)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: Recommendation on cold water fish
Keywords: Picky
Date: 28 Dec 92 20:08:17 GMT
Reply-To: jessop@ljohub.enet.dec.com (Class Dinosauria)
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation


>Speaking of Betta, I have a few in seperate tanks and am having some
>difficulty with feeding.  I feed my lovelies twice a day, but they
>turn their noses up at frozen brine shrimp.  They seem to only want
>live.  Has anyone else had this experience?  

No, I haven't had that problem with bettas, but my sunfish are sometimes picky
that way... and my perch will eat only live foods...  Do you thaw out the brine shrimp first?  

The funny thing is w/ my sunnies, is that they love flake food, but refuse to
eat frozen foods...  yet they gobble live foods.

Do your bettas eat flake foods?  If so, I wouldn't worry too much... I'd just
keep feeding them flake food and treat them to a weekly feast of live brine
shrimp...

Hmmm... looking back on what I wrote, my train of thought is kind of broken.
Sorry 'bout that!

Mike
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:6373 rec.aquaria:9782 sci.aquaria:1821
From: cowan@cerianthus.pinetree.org (Darin Cowan)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
Subject: Re: [M] Lighting
Keywords: lighting,marine
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 92 14:45:39 GMT
Organization: The Aquarium, Ottawa, Ontario

tom@dynamo.ecn.purdue.edu (Tom McCain) writes:

> It would probably help but if your thinking of using a All Glass twin
> tube strip, they use 18" bulbs not 24".  Also they do not have a
> polished reflector like the 36" and 48" lights do.  Is this a hex
> tank?


Nope.  A standard 30"x12"x18" or so.



Darin Cowan - cowan@cerianthus.pinetree.org

Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: blumb@sage.cc.purdue.edu (Bill Blum)
Subject: Re: Question about 5 gal water(f) tank design
Keywords: bottom light
Organization: Techno-Zealots for a Better Future
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 04:34:17 GMT

In article <1992Dec30.021022.7695@ultra.com> jimh@ultra.com (Jim Hurley) writes:
>In <C00A3u.8o9@mentor.cc.purdue.edu> blumb@sage.cc.purdue.edu (Bill Blum) writes:
>-->I received a 5 gal. hexagonal tank for Christmas.  It has a strange feature
>-->(from what little I know about aquariums)---the light is in the BOTTOM of
>-->the tank!
>-->(It'S a molded plastic tank, with a central raised dome for the light)
>Very strange idea... Is the light intended as a heater?

Well, the picture on the box that the tank came in shows it set up with two
fantail goldfish, so I don't think it's intended as a heater.  (it's only a
5 watt bulb!)
>
>My feeling is that the fish will be confused with light from below.
>
>For example, I've noticed for a long time that angelfish like to orient
>themselves so that light appears 'above them'. If I turn out
>the tank lights and have room lights on, they orient themselves
>45 degrees - towards the light.

Well, my two platys are doing just fine.


-- 
Bill Blum			* "God willing...we shall return."        
Purdue University		* Gene Cernan, The Moon, Dec 1972(BSEE P.U. 56)
School of Nuclear Engineering	* Member of the SEDS National Board
blumb@sage.cc.purdue.edu 	*        Ad Astra Per Ardua!!  
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: rickkr@microsoft.com (Rick Krause)
Subject: Re: Are W/D trickle filters worth it?
Date: 22 Dec 92 20:13:11 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp.
Distribution: usa

In article <1gq7pfINNb6p@hayaku.protocol.zycad.com> dominick@protocol.zycad.com wrote:
> In article <1992Dec16.212548.13641@microsoft.com>, rickkr@microsoft.com (Rick Krause) writes:
> |> I had thought about using my Fluval cannister filter as a backup in
> |> case my pump dies (and it's been showing signs lately), but I seem
> |> to remember reading somewhere that you shouldn't use a cannister
> |> with a W/D because the cannister depends on siphoning action.
> 
> I don't understand the problem, why not place a mechanical filter in-
> line somewhere?  Most W/D's designs have a prefilter before the media chamber 
> or in the overflow. 

I do have a prefilter.  I wasn't talking about using it for the
mechanical filtration.  I just want to know if I can use it to
drive the W/D if the current pump should die.  Anyone have an
answer?

thx,
rick
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: hughes@dogwood.botany.uga.edu (Wayne Hughes)
Subject: Re: OUTDOOR PONDS
Organization: Botany Department - U of Georgia, Athens
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1993 00:44:51 GMT

In article <725989080.AA00000@therose.pdx.com> Jack.Honeycutt@f52.n105.z1.fidonet.org (Jack Honeycutt) writes:
>Hello Howard!
>
>02 Jan 93, Howard Rebel writes to All:
>
> HR> Your article's text didn't post.
>
>Yea, I was looking at that too Howard.  Wish he would have.  I love to talk
>ponds...

  Alright then...

  This autumn we decided to get rid of that sloping, shifting gravel
  expanse we call a driveway, and began terracing it, converting it
  into a water garden area.  I now have two attractive holes dug,
  each to contain about 2000 gal of water, the higher pond spilling
  into the lower and a pump to deliver water back around.  I've
  roughed in the plumbing and the drainage system is in already.
  All I need to do is figure out which way to line it.

  The problem is wild animals.  We're already in the Georgia
  county with the highest population of deer, and the property
  is isolated to boot.  The deer come right up to the doorstep,
  and I'm pretty sure they'll find the ponds attractive.  For
  various reasons I'd prefer not to fence the pond area; might
  as well put that nice gravel drive back in - they'd look
  about equally attractive.

  So the question is, do I line with plastic or concrete?  I'm
  aware that the concrete entails considerable extra expense and
  requires a lot more expertise; about the only thing I'm worried
  about is it cracking when the water is poured in.  Our weather
  isn't extreme; we'd never have much freezing of the pond.
  I'd prefer plastic, but can only imagine that it will be
  punctured the first time a deer decides to take a wade.
  Should I try a temporary approach and line with cheap,
  thinner plastic to see how bad the problem is going to
  be?  Anyone have experience with avoiding these problems?
  Any other alternatives?

  As soon as this is done, I'll be ready to start thinking
  about things to put *in* the ponds.

  Wayne


Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: rpt@wdl30.wdl.loral.com (Richard P Toren)
Subject: Do Hospital tanks really work??
Organization: Loral Western Development Labs
Distribution: na
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1992 17:35:35 GMT

 Gentlemen and Ladies,
  I have some questions about the use of a 'hospital tank'(HT). What
puzzles me is how they ever are effective?  

  ASSUME that you notice a couple of fish that appear ill (eg.
scratching and red gills). You remove them from the community tank to
a HT for treatment. But it seems to me that the vector that caused
the ailments is still floating about back in the main tank.  If this
is a bacterial sort of thing, you can't really treat the main tank
without disrupting the good bacteria.  Even if you are successful at
treating these two fish, won't they be re-infected as soon as they go
back into the main tank? Sort of like kids giving a cold back and
forth to each other.

  If you have a large number of fish, you can't possibly put them all
in the HT at once. What is to be done? How do you dis-infect the water
in the main tank.? Haven't all the fish been infected by the time you
see some noticeable symtoms?  Is it possible to treat the main tank, 
(killing all the bacteria --good and bad) and then attempt to
re-establish the biologic balance?  What would you use as seed to
start the biologic filtering process.

  I am in a quandry... I have been trying to cure some scratching (
and recently red gills) with 'Quick cure', then qunine, then General
Cure, and am about to start Furon-2?  But this last explicitly states
that a HT should be used, but I can't put 23 fish in a 5 gallon tank
safely?

Any experience or guidance would be greatly appreciated.  I hate to
just let them all die, and start over.  As my wife says, "After you
name them, you can't just let them die!"


Rip Toren -- the not so relaxed aquariaist (sic)
rpt@han3206.sso.loral.com
From: jimh@ultra.com (Jim Hurley)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: Keeping plants alive.... how?!?
Date: 30 Dec 92 02:06:32 GMT
Organization: Ultra Network Technologies

In <1992Dec29.021200.8168@brtph560.bnr.ca> bhaskar@brtph181.bnr.ca (Shaji Bhaskar) writes:

[...]

-->2. Inadequate nutrients - you can get many plant foods on the market.
-->The consensus on this network seems to be that with fish present, you
-->only need trace elements and possibly laterite in the gravel.  With an
-->already set-up tank, it is too late anyway to consider many other
-->substrate nutrients.

Not too late: the laterite plugs that Aquarium Products sells work very well
for me.

I recently tore my 100g down completely and rebuilt it and I noticed
that the plant roots were heading towards the plugs or were very
large were the plugs were nearby. The tank was about a year old,
heavily planted, CO2 fertilization, etc. The plugs were almost completely
dissolved - I guess a year is about how long they may last.

I was very generous with the plugs - I put about 4 packs (10/pack I think)
in the 100g. The plugs are cyclindrical, about 1" in diameter and about
1" long.

No matter how careful you are, these will cloud the water for a few days,
then they are well behaved.

-- 
Jim Hurley --> jimh@ultra.com  ...!ames!ultra!jimh  (408) 922-0100
Ultra Network Technologies / 101 Daggett Drive / San Jose CA 95134
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: thester@nyx.cs.du.edu (Uncle Fester)
Subject: Re: makecash
Summary: A "buttfish" in alt.aquaria
X-Disclaimer: Nyx is a public access Unix system run by the University
	of Denver for the Denver community.  The University has neither
	control over nor responsibility for the opinions of users.
Keywords: butthead, moron, lame
Organization: Nyx, Public Access Unix at U. of Denver Math/CS dept.
Date: Sat, 2 Jan 93 07:11:51 GMT


     I think we all know where this "chain letter" should be sent.
     Make sure you copy it, and send it to the appropriate person.
     Maybe the offender will realize the butt-headedness of his ways
     and refrain from making an ass of himself in the future.

     Uncle Fester

--
           :     What God Wants      :  God wants gigolos          :
           :        God gets         :  God wants giraffes         :
           :     God help us all     :  God wants politics         :
           : *thester@nyx.cs.du.edu* :  God wants a good laugh     :
From: oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: OUTDOOR PONDS
Date: 3 Jan 93 06:52:18 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)

In article <725989080.AA00000@therose.pdx.com> Jack.Honeycutt@f52.n105.z1.fidonet.org (Jack Honeycutt) writes:
>I have pond files and a pond message area.  Just got some high-res 16.8
>million color, 1024 X 768, 400DPI pond .gif's.  A friend of mine made them for
>me. Callers at 2400 can spend 1/2 hr down loading one .gif file!  But, if you
>can call in at 14.4K (v.32 bis) you can grab one in about 4 minutes.

You can post these gifs to alt.binaries.pictures or whatever the
appropriatae alt.binaries group is.  If you do post, please announce it
here.  I, for one, would like to use a lily as my screen background.

-- 
Oleg Kiselev at home			...use the header to find the path
From: howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: Are W/D trickle filters worth it?
Date: 23 Dec 1992 18:20:42 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: hplsdum.col.hp.com

rickkr@microsoft.com (Rick Krause) writes:
>..
> I do have a prefilter.  I wasn't talking about using it for the
> mechanical filtration.  I just want to know if I can use it to
> drive the W/D if the current pump should die.  Anyone have an
> answer?

Yes you can if the head (difference between water input and outlet)
are not so great that the flow rate drops too much.  
My guess is that will work.  You can check the flow rate by putting a 
bucket of water at the filter level and another at the tank outlet 
level and time how long it takes to pump a gallon of water.
-- 
Howard Rebel hpcsos.col.hp.com 

Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: bhaskar@brtph181.bnr.ca (Shaji Bhaskar)
Subject: Re: Recommendation on cold water fish
Organization: BNR Inc. RTP, NC
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 1992 15:41:57 GMT

In article <BzuwJD.3xs@CAM.ORG> gelinas@CAM.ORG (Daniel Gelinas) writes:

>Ok here's the situation.  For Christmas I have received a nice little
>2 gallon desk aquarium.  Unfortunately I'm not able to attach a
>standard heater to it( the kind that screw on to the side) so I must
>resort to keeping only fish which can stand temperatures between
>68-72.  I have been told that tanichthys albonubes 'White cloud
>Mountain fish' will suit my tank just fine.  They are small, about the
>same size as most of the Tetra variety.

White Clouds will do fine in as long as the temperature does not fall
below the 40s.  I have heard there are 7 Watt heaters available, but I
don't know where you can find one.

>P.S: I'm trying to experiment by placing black rocks on the bottom and
>heating it with the light, is this a good idea?  The light is very
>small and so far as I can tell it takes about 3 hours to see any
>change in temp.  I know I should keep the light on for about 12 or 13
>hours regardless.

It is possible to raise the temperature by a couple of degrees using
this approach.  An incandescent lamp will work better than a
fluorescent one, of course, and you need good water circulation to
keep the tank at a uniform temperature.  The practice wastes energy,
though, and you will have to leave the light on all night.

A couple of weeks ago, I bought a 2.5G rectangular tank that I plan to
keep in my office.  It is curently set up at home.  The tank is
unfiltered (it will be on my work desk and I don't want the noise/
water splashes), and unheated (because heating without a filter to
provide circulation may cause "cold feet").  To make maintenance
easier, I have left out gravel.  The bottom has two largish lava rocks
with a little Java fern growing on them.  The rest of the tank bottom
is covered with Java moss.  I currently have four small White Clouds
in there.  I think the tank looks quit attractive.  Because of
reflections from the bottom, the tank looks larger (and more heavily
planted) than it actually is.

This setup will probably require frequent maintenance.

-Shaji.
-- 
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Shaji Bhaskar     BNR, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709     (bhaskar@bnr.ca) 
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: tom@dynamo.ecn.purdue.edu (Tom McCain)
Subject: Re: (M)(R) Back up power for reef tank?
Organization: Purdue University, West Lafayette, IN
Date:  1 Jan 93 05:09:11 GMT


>: I was recently asked what I would do with my 45 gallon reef tank in
>: the event of a power outage.  I thought a bit and really couldn't come
>: up with a good answer.  All I could think of was the battery powered
>: air pumps I seen forsale.  Anyone with a reef tank have any experience
>: with this?  Are a couple of battery powered air pumps enough for a
>: unpredicted power outage?  Obviously bubbles breaking the surface are
>: better then nothing at all, but are they enough?

: Well here's a suggestion which might work:

: -  Buy a 12 DC to 120 VAC voltage converter from Radio Shack.
:    These are the power blocks which plug into your lighter socket
:    and convert car voltages for household appliances.

I stopped in Radio Shack today and found a 12 volt to 120 inverter and
they wanted a 100 bucks for it!  Anyone seen a cheaper source?  Also,
would it have to be a sign wave, as opposed to a square wave to power
a motor?  How do you tell the difference?  Not being a PC user, can a
UPS as Kevin suggested be used as a seperate power supply?  Or does it
require a PC?

--tom
--
	    Tom McCain            tom@dynamo.ecn.purdue.edu
 This life is a test.  It is only a test.  Had this been an actual life,
 you would have received further instructions as to what to do and where
 to go.
From: blumb@sage.cc.purdue.edu (Bill Blum)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,purdue.student-org.aquaria
Subject: Question about 5 gal water(f) tank design
Summary: Strange Tank design.
Keywords: bottom light
Date: 29 Dec 92 05:33:30 GMT
Organization: Techno-Zealots for a Better Future

Hi.
I'm a complete newbie to aquaria, so please forgive me if this sounds
strange.

I received a 5 gal. hexagonal tank for Christmas.  It has a strange feature
(from what little I know about aquariums)---the light is in the BOTTOM of
the tank!
(It'S a molded plastic tank, with a central raised dome for the light)

I was thinking of placing two Platys in the tank, but I'm curious---am I
going to have to install a top light instead of the bottom one?

-- 
Bill Blum			* "God willing...we shall return."        
Purdue University		* Gene Cernan, The Moon, Dec 1972(BSEE P.U. 56)
School of Nuclear Engineering	* Member of the SEDS National Board
blumb@sage.cc.purdue.edu 	*        Ad Astra Per Ardua!!  
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier)
Subject: Re: Baby cichlids
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Fri, 1 Jan 93 18:26:24 GMT

Kilowatt admin (root@kilowatt.uucp) wrote:
: Hello...
: 	I don't know if this is the correct place, but it seems to be the ONLY
: place...
: 	I'm the proud new father of about 50 baby cichlids, which are a cross
: between a pink convict and something called a "Salvini Cichlid" (any idea what
: THAT is?A convict hybrid?). They're about 3 week old now, and I was wondering,
: what I should be feeding them.

You are probably going to get some flames, so please allow me
to say it first, politely.  The hybridization of cichlids is
stronly frowned upon by most of the cichlid-keeping community.
It is unfortunately quite easy to inter-breed many cichlid
species, and it is very undesireable to place these hybrids in
a position where they could be confused with any specific species.
It is recommended that you NEVER sell your hybrids back to a fish
store (and a reputable store would probably not accept them, unless
they were phenomenally atractive or ugly).  Yes, the alternative
is to destroy the fish, and that is what you should eventually do.

It's also a bad idea to do personal work or routine duties while
logged in a root, but that's another matter entirely... :-)
--
"They thought to use and shame me but I win out by nature, because a true
freak cannot be made.  A true freak must be born." - K. Dunn, _Geek Love_

Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Subject: Re: OUTDOOR PONDS
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1993 07:03:19 GMT

In article <1993Jan3.004451.26930@rigel.econ.uga.edu> hughes@dogwood.botany.uga.edu (Wayne Hughes) writes:
>  I'd prefer plastic, but can only imagine that it will be
>  punctured the first time a deer decides to take a wade.

You could try covering the upper portion of the liner with 3-4" flat river
rocks.  If the slopes of the pond are not very steep, you might be able to
line the slopes and the bottom with the same kinds of rocks.  I am not sure
how advisable it may be, but you may want to try using clay or even cenment
as a bonding agent.  The resulting inner "liner" will not and needs not be 
water-tight, since the plastic below it will serve as the water barier.  The
rocks should be able to protect the plastic from the deer.
-- 
Oleg Kiselev at home			...use the header to find the path
From: jimh@ultra.com (Jim Hurley)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,purdue.student-org.aquaria
Subject: Re: Question about 5 gal water(f) tank design
Keywords: bottom light
Date: 30 Dec 92 02:10:22 GMT
Organization: Ultra Network Technologies

In <C00A3u.8o9@mentor.cc.purdue.edu> blumb@sage.cc.purdue.edu (Bill Blum) writes:

-->Hi.
-->I'm a complete newbie to aquaria, so please forgive me if this sounds
-->strange.

-->I received a 5 gal. hexagonal tank for Christmas.  It has a strange feature
-->(from what little I know about aquariums)---the light is in the BOTTOM of
-->the tank!
-->(It'S a molded plastic tank, with a central raised dome for the light)


Very strange idea... Is the light intended as a heater?

My feeling is that the fish will be confused with light from below.

For example, I've noticed for a long time that angelfish like to orient
themselves so that light appears 'above them'. If I turn out
the tank lights and have room lights on, they orient themselves
45 degrees - towards the light.
-- 
Jim Hurley --> jimh@ultra.com  ...!ames!ultra!jimh  (408) 922-0100
Ultra Network Technologies / 101 Daggett Drive / San Jose CA 95134
From: howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: OUTDOOR PONDS
Date: 2 Jan 1993 01:32:37 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division
NNTP-Posting-Host: hplsdum.col.hp.com

Your article's text didn't post.

[Howard's Wife Deb]
-- 
Howard Rebel hpcsos.col.hp.com 

Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: tom@dynamo.ecn.purdue.edu (Tom McCain)
Subject: (M)(R) Back up power for reef tank?
Organization: Purdue University, West Lafayette, IN
Date: 27 Dec 92 02:05:56 GMT


I was recently asked what I would do with my 45 gallon reef tank in
the event of a power outage.  I thought a bit and really couldn't come
up with a good answer.  All I could think of was the battery powered
air pumps I seen forsale.  Anyone with a reef tank have any experience
with this?  Are a couple of battery powered air pumps enough for a
unpredicted power outage?  Obviously bubbles breaking the surface are
better then nothing at all, but are they enough?

I only have a 45 I wonder what Steve would do with his mega reef. . . .

--tom
--
	    Tom McCain            tom@dynamo.ecn.purdue.edu

 If a listener nods his head when you're explaining your program, wake
 him up.
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria