HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: ericb@microsoft.com (Eric Brown)
Subject: Re: Impact of our hobby on "the pros" (WAS: Re: Jointer vs Planer)
Date: 23 Dec 92 01:03:45 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp

Having been a pro myself (first non-union, then union, and then some
self employed), I, and those with whom I worked usually did not regard with
animosity DIYers who worked on projects for themselves.  What _does_
raise the ire of pros is DIYers who hang out a shingle to try and
make some extra money without getting the requisite licenses, insurance,
and bonding.  The "moonlighter" has an unfair cost advantage, with
little or no overhead, and can underbid the established and legal
woodworking businesses.  And caveat emptor for the person hiring an
uninsured tradesperson to work on their property.  If this fly-by-night
individual makes a serious mistake and causes significant property
damage to the client, the DIYer may not have sufficent personal assets
to cover the damage (the old "can't get blood out of a turnip" adage
applies in this case when there is no insurance or other deep
pockets).


-- 
    Eric
               Microsoft Systems, Advanced Systems Development
            {sun, uw-beaver, apple, uunet, fluke}!microsoft!ericb 
                       internet: ericb@microsoft.com
Xref: sparky rec.woodworking:8644 alt.save.the.earth:1435 talk.environment:5161
From: tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,alt.save.the.earth,talk.environment
Subject: Re: "Rainforest Destruction Has Many Victims"
Date: 21 Dec 92 06:18:05 GMT
Organization: University of Arizona UNIX Users Group

In article <ACTIV-L.19Dec1992.1347@naughty-peahen> jym@mica.berkeley.edu (ACTIV-L via Jym Dyer) writes:

>friends of the earth (foe), world wide fund for nature uk and
>survival international are lobbying the british government to
>adopt an integrated policy on forests, including an immediate halt
>to imports of illegally produced timber and completely phasing out
>timber imports from unsustainable sources by the end of 1995.
>
>the environmental groups are also targeting the diy firms, the
>main tropical timber purchaser in britain. so far, three of
>britain's six big diy chains have agreed to phase out tropical
>wood from unsustainable sources by 1995.
>

Thanks for the warning.  I hadn't realized that this was happening so
quickly.  That gives us DIY woodworkers less than two years to stockpile
large quantities of Iroko, Ebony, and other woods.   I really glad you
warned us before we couldn't buy these woods anymore.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: phil@mailhub.scf.lmsc.lockheed.com (Phil English)
Subject: DISK SANDER
Keywords: DISK SANDER
Organization: Lockheed Santa Cruz, CA.
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 92 16:36:02 GMT

	Still looking for a used disk sander, 12" to 24". Old, used, heavy, 
iron and ugly is beautiful. Working or not. Must be repairable.

	Please E-Mail any leads!

			(B{  Thanks, Phil
From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1992 01:48:03 GMT
Subject: Re: What is the diff between an tilt arbor and table saw?
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

ameres@ithaca.cat.rpi.edu (Eric Ameres) writes:
>
>Don't most tablesaws (I'd assume the Delta Contractor's adn the like)
>allow you to tilt the blade to make bevel cuts?  If so then what's the
>difference between a tilt arbor and these normal tablesaws.  If not
>then I've made a heck of an assumption regarding most table saws and
>am glad someone asked.
>
>I am guessing here, but might it be that a tilt-arbor saw tilts the
>arbor and not the motor (implying that a tilt arbor saw must also be
>belt (or otherwise indirectly) driven ) or is this mechanically
>impossible?  
>
>From this assumption, I would further theorize that normal tablesaws
>would therefore tilt the arbor and the motor as a unit.  
>
>OK anyone care to relate this into some commonly acceptable examples:
>Is the saw arbor of the Delta Contractor's directly attached to the
>motor?  What about the Delta Cabinet Saw? I have seen posts regarding
>the unisaw which must be belt driven.  Which of these qualify as
>tilting arbor saws?  Does the Unisaw qualify as a cabinet saw?

   The Delta Contractor's Saw is a "tilting arbor saw".
   The Delta Tilting Arbor Saw is a "tilting arbor saw".
   I haven't seen a "Delta Cabinet Saw".
   The Delta Unisaw is a "tilting arbor saw".
   The Inca Major is a "tilting table" saw.

ANY saw with an arbor that allows the blade to tilt in relation to the
table without moving the table or base from the horizontal is a "tilting
arbor" saw.  This means that the arbor that holds the blade becomes 
tilted as you turn the crank handle.

Now, as you can see, there is absolutely no standardization in names.

I personally think it is extremely misleading of Delta to call one of 
their saws a Tilting Arbor Saw, when in fact all of their table saws
are tilting arbor saws.

I don't think this situation can be clarified any more than that, but
I could be wrong.
From: yarmas@solbourne.com (Tom Yarmas)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: WoodSmith dovetail jig
Date: 21 Dec 1992 08:07:34 -0700
Organization: Solbourne Computer, Inc., Longmont, CO
NNTP-Posting-Host: solbourne.com

I also built the Woodsmith jig and am very pleased with it. I have used it on 
both 3/4" and 1/2" material with good results;I have not used any other 
dovetailing jigs though. I had to use different screws to attach the side 
guides because the round head screws were too tall to allow the comb to sit 
down on top of 1/2" material, flat head screws worked fine. I was not all too 
comfortable with the cams at first, but did get used to them. 

I would like to make some thru dovetails, and saw a jig by Mark Dungste (sp?)
in a recent issue of FWW. This jig is for the table saw (he did a similar one
for the band saw in an older Woodsmith). Anyone tried it?
From: pkn@lnic1.hprc.uh.edu (Kay Nettle)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: table saw - what to buy?
Date: 30 Dec 1992 01:21:45 GMT
Organization: University of Houston
Reply-To: pkn@uh.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: lnic1.hprc.uh.edu
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5


I'm planning to buy my husband a table saw.  I told him I'd buy him what
ever he wanted, but he can't seem to make up his mind.  He wants a good
saw, but isn't sure that the 1,000 or so dollars for the Delta Cabinet
saw is worth it.  

All I know about saws is that Norm Abrams says it is the most important
tool in the shop. :-)  Can anyone make some recommendations as to
what saw I should get him? 

Please reply by mail, as I don't read this newsgroup. :-)

Kay
 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: millios@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (william.l.millios)
Subject: Re: fitted storage cases
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 15:55:32 GMT

In article <e0QR035mc1NF00@amdahl.uts.amdahl.com> rmd20@amdahl.uts.amdahl.com (Robert Dusek) writes:
>
>Has anyone here made a felt-lined, fitted case like those for
>storing delicate instruments?  I just splurged on a set of
>marking tools from Bridge City and I'd like to give them a
>nice home.  I guess I have three basic questions:
>
>	1) What material should be used for the contoured
>	   surface?  Wood?  Styrofoam?
>	2) How do I shape the recessed contours (depending on
>	   the answer to question 1)?
>	3) How do I stretch the felt to make it cover smoothly?

Visit your local camera store, and check out their luggage bags.
You can buy foam that is pre-indented for one centimeter (or
thereabouts, maybe it's half inch) blocks.  You just tear out the
number of blocks to fit your specific thingie, and you're in business.

As for the felt stuff.   Hmm.  Maybe spray on some adhesive, and
glue it on piece by piece?

What I thought of was measuring the tools (I got the BCTW "works",
and it's sitting in a drawer marked "Don't touch" for lack of a
better home), and using thin woods to build up 3D profiles for each
one.  Would take a long time, but at least I know they'd be secure.

Maybe try flocking for the felt appearance?  Will it hold up?

How about that spray foam?  I remember reading somewhere that people
would take a power tool, wrap it in a plastic bag, put it in a
suitcase type enclosure, then fill the box with spray foam.  When
the foam dries, you cut the tool carefully out of the middle, and
you're done. 

Let me know what you end up doing, and how it holds up.

Bill
From: lakia@ipact.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Thanks for Poplar source
Date: 28 Dec 92 10:12:55 CDT
Organization: IPACT, Valparaiso IN

To all those who responded for my search for poplar:

I found poplar at my local supplier Whites for $0.85 number
one common.  I took all they had (85 board feet), they
don't get it very often, and I might still have to find
another source. I've included the price for others who might 
be interested (All is 4/4 rough, Kiln dried). 

	Whites Lumber
	Valparaiso, IN
	219-759-2592

	popular         0.85 (#1 Common)
	soft maple      0.96 (#1 Common)
 	white/red Oak   2.42 (SElect)

	Launstiens
	Mason, MI
	517-676-1133

	popular		1.35 (Select)
	Soft Maple	1.30 (Select)
	White/Red Oak	2.10 (Select)

Earl Lakia			Email:  LAKIA@IPACT.COM
IPACT Inc.			Voice:  219-464-7212
260 South Campbell		FAX:    219-462-5387
Valparaiso, IN   46383
From: berry@a.chem.upenn.edu (Don Berry)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Dovetail Jigs
Date: 21 Dec 92 18:49:39 GMT
Followup-To: rec.woodworking
Organization: University of Pennsylvania

I've been following the various threads on dovetail jigs over
the past few weeks, but I'm still a little hazy about some things.
It seems that for $200-300 you can get a PC or Leigh jig which
does most everything, or you can build your own (much less flexible) 
jig from Woodsmith plans and parts for ca. $50.  However, I've
haven't read much about the lower cost commercial jigs (Incra (ca. $25),
Incra Pro (ca. $70), etc.)  

Would some kind soul care to summarize the capabilities and 
limitations of the lower-end models?  

E-mail your response if this is a total FAQ.

Thanks

Don Berry			                       berry@a.chem.upenn.edu
Department of Chemistry
University of Pennsylvania
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: pcm@ssd.intel.com (Phil Miller)
Subject: Re: SHOP SAFETY - AIR QUALITY
Keywords: AIR, DUST
Reply-To: pcm@ssd.intel.com (Phil Miller)
Organization: Intel Supercomputer Systems Division, Beaverton, Oregon, USA
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 00:29:43 GMT

In article <gnc.343.724949215@ace.acadiau.ca>, gnc@ace (GRAHAM CHEESEMAN) writes:
| While I am very attentive to wearing ear protectors and safety glasses while 
| using stationary power tools,  I limit respirator usage to finishing.  I 
| realize that organic vapors pose a threat to health, but what about fine 
| wood dust?  Should woodworkers use dust protection and if so what type 
| of filter is adequate?  Is the dust from certain wood species more harmful 
| than that from others?  Like many DIYs, I work in a small basement with 
| limited air circulation, so the dust can become a nuisance, but is it 
| harmful?

Indeed.  Prolonged exposure to wood dust can cause a number of serious
respiratory ailments, including cancer as I recall.  There is a FWW article
from a couple of years ago which deals with the issue of the hazards of wood
dust.  It's worth the trouble to chase down a copy of the article; sorry I
can't give you a more specific reference (I'm at work, the FWWs are at home).

Phil Miller
pcm@ssd.intel.com
From: brettm@execu.execu.com (Brett Miller)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Treadle lathe
Date: 23 Dec 92 16:56:44 GMT
Organization: Comshare, Inc. Ann Arbor, MI


Eric,
     I haven't build a treadle lathe yet, but it's on my to-do
list.  I'm in the process of reconstructing a 19th century
woodworking/blacksmithing shop.  Anything that I can't do with
a hand tool, I'm at least using human-powered equipment.

     I recommend Roy Underhill's "Woodwrights Workbook"  this
has instructions on how to build a treadle lathe.  (It also covers 
great-wheel and springpole lathes.)  Also, you can still buy
metal (and sometimes wood) treadle lathes on the antique market.
However, these will probably set you back anywhere from $100 to several
hundred dollars.

I hope this helps,
Brett

P.S. If you're not acquainted with Underhill's books or his PBS
series, you should check them out.  He doesn't produce exactly
what you could call "fine furniture", but he covers quite a few
bases (including house construction, tool care, how to select
trees, etc).

---------------------------------------------------------------------
Brett Miller
Comshare Inc, Ann Arbor MI
brettm@comshare.com

*********************************************************************
* The views expressed herein are not necessarily those of Comshare. *
* In fact, they might not even be mine.  I'm just argumentative.    *
*********************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ldr@lightnin.Columbia.NCR.COM (Dale Robbins)
Subject: Re: Clock and music box movements
Organization: NCR Corp, E&M-Columbia, Columbia, SC
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 92 21:55:48 GMT



San Fransisco Music Box Company sells the movements.  Unsure of address but I
was in one of their stores the other day and I believe they have a wide range 
of sizes available.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Dale Robbins                               
 Surface Mount Operations Center                 NCR MCPD -- Columbia
 phone: (803) 739-6155                           Operations & Distribution
                                                 3325 Platt Springs Road
 email: dale.robbins@ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM          West Columbia, SC 29170

Thoughts expressed here are my own and not representative of NCR
-------------------------------------------------------------------------


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: How to get a square edge
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 07:40:04 GMT

bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds) writes:

... good advice delided ...

: > Anyone come up with a slick way around this problem?
: 
: If you have a tablesaw, you can build a long sliding table jig for it.

Or, you could build an extension table for the router.

Bill
From: daniel@redwood.ppc.ubc.ca (Daniel Ouellet)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re:      Mortise Chisels
Date: 22 Dec 1992 16:41:57 GMT
Organization: University of B.C. Pulp & Paper Centre
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: redwood.ppc.ubc.ca

In article <WOODWORK%92122111504757@IPFWVM.BITNET>,         "Lawrence E. Rondot" <RONDOT@IPFWVM.BITNET> writes:
|> I am looking for a 3/4" chisel to chop through mortises.  After looking
|> through the normal research guides (catalogs) I am seeing a patern that most
|> of the higher priced "mortise" chisels have squared sides and a leather
|> washer to act as a shock absorber.
|> 
|> What other things should I watch for?  I have a low end 3/4" chisel already
|> but I am not too sure of it for chopping a 4" wide by 3" deep hole.
|> 
|> Help?
|> 
|> Larry Rondot
|> Rondot@IPFWVM      - or -      Rondot@SMTPLink.IPFW.Indiana.Edu

I have cut 3/4" mortises using a 1/4" mortise chisel by cutting two 1/4
mortises separated by 1/4" and then cleaning out the waste in 
between. This is certainly not as good and simple as using a 3/4" 
chisel, but I didn't have one and didn't want to invest in one since 
I don't cut mortises this size very often. The mortise chisels I have 
are from Marples and I bought them at Lee Valley Tools for about 
20$CDN each. They don't have the leather washer you mention.
The squared sides allow the chisel to penetrate deep into the wood
without twisting. You hold the chisel square on the workpiece, hit it 
with a mallet and it goes in dead square. I strongly recommend 
reading the book "Fine Woodworking on Joinery" to learn all about 
the technique.

-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Daniel Ouellet, Research Associate
Pulp and Paper Centre, University of British Columbia
2385 East Mall, Vancouver, BC, Canada V6T 1Z4
Tel:(604)822-8240   Fax:(604)822-8563   Email: daniel@ppc.ubc.ca
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: coloured stains for kids blocks
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 19:43:22 GMT

rtrudel@zarathustra.prime.com (Robin Trudel) writes:
: This is my first post.  I am a carver and this topic comes up frequently
: for me.  I know that there are paints that considered non-toxic, but when
: a child's life/health are at stake I will not take chances.  Maybe I am
: slightly paranoid about this but I feel its worth it.
: 
: I didn't have any references on this subject the first time I colored a
: child's toy so I used personal experience.  Cranberry and blueberry juice 
: make brilliant colors, but there is a lot of bleeding (ie. You can't paint
: with them, only stain).  Food coloring also works but gets expensive quickly.
: 
: I have ingested all of these so I have no qualms about letting my little one
: chew on it.  The only problems I have encountered are the extended drying 
: time and color-fastness...Any Suggestions?

I would be concerned about the bacteria that could develop on the stain.
Fruit/berry juice is a near ideal medium for such growth.

Bill
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: Tuning up an old Craftsman Table Saw
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 20:19:05 GMT

lombardo@taurus.cs.nps.navy.mil writes:
: 
:   Well anyway - the second problem has to do with the blade shaft.  What
: ever bent the motor shaft apparently bent this shaft too.  The pulley wobbles
: slightly and the blade does too.  The wobble in the blade (note: new blade)
: is about 10% of the blade thickness.  What can be done about this?  Should
: the shaft and bearings be replaced?  A friend suggested removing the blade,

Replacing the shaft would be best - unless it could be straightened. It might
also be a good idea to replace the bearings, they could have been damaged
when the shaft was bent.

:                                      A friend suggested removing the blade,
: powering up the saw and with a file against the blade seat take off any
: high spots.

DO NOT DO THIS.  The blade seat is designed for a fairly close fit to the
blade - this helps keep the blade in balance.  Changing this is likely to
allow the blade to move around on the arbor. This would be likely to cause
excess vibration, and possibly wear/damage to the blade arbor cutout.

Bill
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: hbstrock@world.std.com (harold b strock)
Subject: urethane yellowing
Summary: which urethane is least yellowing
Keywords: urethane finish yellowing safflower oil
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1992 17:17:49 GMT

I have used urethane finishes for years because of their durability 
and ease of use.  I am finally fed up with how badly they yellow, a
characteristic I particularly dislike on maple.  
 
In the Fine Woodworking book on Finishing, it is mentioned that alkyd 
resin source significantly affects yellowing with:
	linseed oil fortified, most yellowing
	soybean oil, less yellowing  
	safflower oil, least yellowing.
My problem is that the cans of polyurethane I have looked at do not
list which alkyd resin source is used.
 
Question 1:  Which polyurethane brands use safflower oil?
 
Question 2:  Is the reduced yellowing tendancy of safflower oil 
	containing products worth the effort of finding them?
 
Minwax now lists UV absorbers in their formulation and offers a mix 
with improved exterior durability.  They also note the product's 
tendancy to yellow but there is no mention of alkyd resin source!
Thanks for any advice   hbstrock@world.std.com



-- 
hbstrock@world.std.com			phone/fax 508/829-9610
Harold B. Strock, PhD
Strock Technology Associates, Inc.	Independent Licensing Executive
40 Driftwood DR				Consultant in advanced materials
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis)
Subject: Dricote
Organization: OSF Research Institute
Date: 21 Dec 92 16:35:36

Dricote is a product often recommended for lubricating table saw tops
and the like.  What is its generic name (e.g. silicone lubricant?
aerosol teflon?), and are there cheaper versions of it?

	-s
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: "Rainforest Destruction Has Many Victims"
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 07:35:27 GMT

tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin) writes:
: >: >countries.  Another fact - the rate of deforestation in Brazil has
: >: >been at the rate of 0.5%/year.
: >: 
: >:    Could you please cite a reference for this "fact"?
: >
: >I believe that it was in National Geographic's "On Assignment", on
: >PBS. 
: 
: This was discussed as a result of careful photographic surveying by
: the Shuttle on the recent PBS series on Space.  I remember, because
: I was surprised it was so low.

Thanks, Tom. Maybe that is where I saw it, but I don't think so.
However, you are right - the value was obtained from a shuttle or
satellite survey.

I was also surprised at the low rate. I expected, from all the media
hype, that 30 or 40% had already been cleared.

... delided ...

: I would be happy to agree with you.  I happen to believe in a lot of
: ecological causes, and don't believe in the "rape it now and let the
: future clean it up later" ideology that so many modern industrialists
: espouse.  But weak rhetoric is not going to advance the cause.
: If we can't talk intelligently on the topic, we might end up doing
: more harm than good.  We play into the hands of the Quayleoids of the
: world, who exploit the kind of fuzzy handwaving so prevalent in the
: eco movement.

I agree. Hysteric handwaving will get us nowhere. We must stick to the
facts.

Bill
From: gcohen@mailer.cc.fsu.edu (Gregory Cohen)
Subject: Re: coloured stains for kids blocks
Organization: Florida State University
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 92 20:30:24 GMT

In article <1992Dec23.194322.2666@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com> billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson) writes:
>rtrudel@zarathustra.prime.com (Robin Trudel) writes:
<stuff removed>
>: 
>: I have ingested all of these so I have no qualms about letting my little one
>: chew on it.  The only problems I have encountered are the extended drying 
>: time and color-fastness...Any Suggestions?
>
>I would be concerned about the bacteria that could develop on the stain.
>Fruit/berry juice is a near ideal medium for such growth.
>
>Bill

I would think that the berry juce once dried would not be too much of a
problem.  these juices have been used as fabric dyes for milenia and as 
far as I can tell bacteria has not grown.  I know my natrualy dyed cloth
is fine.  Perhapse this is a question fot the textile group.

-GReg
gcohen@mailer.cc.fsu.edu

Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Wed, 23 Dec 1992 13:17:59 EST
From:         Frank Bateman USAEPG <dbatema@APG-EMH5.APG.ARMY.MIL>
Subject:      CleanAir System

Anybody had any experience with the CleanAir System?  There's an
ad for it on p. 71 of the Jan-Feb American Woodworker.  It'
s a ceiling or wall-mounted filter said to gobble up the stuff
that flowats around in one's shop in spite of using a dust
collector.  The price is $269 plus $20 ups.  In addition to
the info in the ad, I gleaned the following from a phone call
to TotalShop:  It's guaranteed for a year.  They offer a no-cost
(except shipping) 30-day trial.  Replacement filters are available
for $29-something.  A filter will last about five months in a
small commercial shop.  It operates on 115V.  They've been making
the product for over two years.

Any feedback will be appreciated.  If I don't get dissuaded, I think
I'll give it a try next month.

Frank
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking