HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: eliot@chutney.rtp.dg.com (Topher Eliot)
Subject: Re: building a house
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 92 17:02:04 GMT
Distribution: usa
Reply-To: eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com
Organization: Data General Corporation, Research Triangle Park, NC

The instructor of my Residential Construction Management course made a big
point of telling us that it's important to have your full financing lined up
before you hire anybody to do *any* work on the land (even just clearing
brush, for example), and before any purchased.  This is so that the bank will
have the first lien on record at the courthouse.  If you hire Joe's brushhog
service, and he mows your land and files a lien to make sure he'll get paid,
then until that lien is removed from the official records, any mortgage you
could get could be viewed by the bank as a second mortgage -- and you can
imagine what a monkey wrench that could throw in the works.

In particular, if you are building yourself and have no plans on borrowing
any money, go ahead and line up a loan in case you change your mind later.

Would having an architect wander around the property even before (or after)
you bought it count?  I dunno.

-- 
Topher Eliot             Data General DG/UX Systems Administration Development
(919) 248-6371      eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com       {backbone}!mcnc!rti!dg-rtp!eliot
Obviously, I speak for myself, not for DG.
misc.consumers.house archivist.  Send mail to house-archive@dg-rtp.dg.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,misc.legal
From: wilson@glitch.cs.jhu.edu (Dwight Wilson)
Subject: Re: What about alarm systems (was Burglars and dogs)
Organization: The Johns Hopkins University CS Department
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 17:47:42 GMT

In article <l7dg7iINNlsu@roundup.crhc.uiuc.edu> mary@uicsl.csl.uiuc.edu (Mary E. Allison) writes:
>     Well, I missed the start of the Burglars and dogs and snakes 
>discussion so someone may have brought this up -- but why not get
>burglar alarms?  How much do they cost, probably less than a dog and
>dog food and vet bills and however much you'd end up getting sued by
>the burglar after s/he is treated for the snake bites.
>

What?  And have the burglar sue your for partial hearing loss?
From: pestes@wdi.COM (Laurin Pestes x82570)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: California Earthquake relief fund: decline
Date: 28 Jul 92 20:23:37 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Western Digital - Imaging, Mtn. View, CA

I recently got my bill for the new California State
earthquake relief fund.  The state wants $60.00 for
"insurance", even though they haven't even gotten
around to writing a policy for it.
 
Since I have enough trouble collecting claims from
a solvent insurance company with a written policy,
I don't see much benifit in joining a insolvent pool
with no written policy or defined benefits.
 
I called my insurance company, and they say it won't
affect my coverage with them if I decline the
"Earthquake relief fund". They have a "declination
form" they need signed, and they were happy to mail
it with a single call. 
 
Yes, it is illegal to decline, but untill there's
a reasonable benefit or penalty, I'm leaning towards
civil disobedience.
 
Thanks to Allstate for allowing their policyholders
to decline this so-called 'insurance'!
From: smb@ulysses.att.com (Steven Bellovin)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: ADVICE WANTED:  Changing house outlets from 2 to 3 prongs
Date: 31 Jul 92 18:16:12 GMT
Distribution: usa

In article <NUGE.92Jul30121517@newport.med.ge.com>, nuge@newport.med.ge.com (James A. Nugent) writes:
} In article <17016@ulysses.att.com> smb@ulysses.att.com (Steven
} Bellovin) writes:
} > The problem I've had with BX is that older insulation
} > can't stand the heat very well.  In my house, the insulation is crumbling
} > on wires inside the boxes for ceiling fixtures -- the extra heat of the
} > bulbs has caused serious problems.
} 
} 	How old is your house (or the wiring in question?)

My house was built in 1952.  I had similar problems ~6-7 years ago with
a house built in 1955.  And I don't think the NEC was changed to require
high-temperature insulation until ~1984.  (There was definitely a change
in the mid-80's; I don't know if there were intermediate upgrades, either
in the spec or in the insulation used.)
From: smb@ulysses.att.com (Steven Bellovin)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Alarm sirens
Date: 25 Jul 92 07:59:21 GMT

In article <4100732@hpcc01.corp.hp.com>, bparrish@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (William Parrish) writes:
> Putting it in the cold air return makes a heck of a lot of noise...
> 
> (I did this with a bell... our particular system had two sounders, a bell
> in the air duct, plus a siren to the outside.)

Be careful -- in general, one is not allowed to put any sort of wiring,
even low voltage, in air ducts, unless it's rated for that purpose.
The problem is fire -- most insulation gives off noxious fumes when it
burns.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas Rand)
Subject: Re: ADVICE WANTED:  Changing house outlets from 2 to 3 prongs
Organization: Open Software Foundation
	<NUGE.92Jul29095030@newport.med.ge.com> <Bs6nAv.720@hatch.socal.com>
	<NUGE.92Jul30115824@newport.med.ge.com>
Distribution: usa
Date: 31 Jul 92 13:41:10

In article <NUGE.92Jul30115824@newport.med.ge.com> nuge@newport.med.ge.com (James A. Nugent) writes:

	   I have such a thing (except using a 15W bulb) and have used
   it, among other things (makes a handy if crude GFI checker),
   occasionally to test grounds. What scares me about is that a high
   resistance (or unexpected) ground path will induce heat, and wierd
   voltages heaven knows where. Am I being too paranoid?

Yes.  For the few seconds you apply the current,  you are 
unlikely to get enough heat to do anything.
--
Douglas S. Rand <drand@osf.org>		OSF/Motif Dev.
Snail:         11 Cambridge Center,  Cambridge,  MA  02142
Disclaimer:    I don't know if OSF agrees with me... let's vote on it.
Amateur Radio: KC1KJ
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: eliot@chutney.rtp.dg.com (Topher Eliot)
Subject: Re: Ground Cover Suggestions????
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 92 16:28:17 GMT
Reply-To: eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com
Organization: Data General Corporation, Research Triangle Park, NC

Think about what's going to fall into your ground cover, and how you will
clean it out.  I've heard that trying to get pine needles or dead leaves out
of English Ivy without tearing up the ivy is pretty hard.  On the other hand,
the stuff that looks like pieces of juniper seems to survive being raked.

-- 
Topher Eliot             Data General DG/UX Systems Administration Development
(919) 248-6371      eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com       {backbone}!mcnc!rti!dg-rtp!eliot
Obviously, I speak for myself, not for DG.
misc.consumers.house archivist.  Send mail to house-archive@dg-rtp.dg.com
"Daddy, did you know that super banana squash is a vampire?  And he drinks
blood from cactuses?"  -- Tommy, age 3.
From: brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Tile or Linoleum?
Date: 30 Jul 92 19:56:44 GMT
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server

Yet another alternative: hardwood floors.  I first encountered this
in my cousin's farmhouse, and did something like it in my house.
Actually, it's T&G lino underlayment, but made of a decent grade of
fir.  It'll do until I get around to nuking the kitchen in a redo.  Once
this happens, I'll lift the underlayment and put in oak in the 
kitchen and dining area.

Upside: It's gorgeous.
	*most* of the time dropped dishes don't shatter.  :-)
        You can refinish or repair the finish
        T&G flooring can help stiffen a floor.
	It's different.
Downside:  Water damage is possible; be careful in cleaning.
        Dropped dishes may dent the floor.  (Not a real problem for
	me, so far.)
	The fir tends to have large gaps; the house would be difficult
	to sell with my technique...
	Like tile, it can be hard on the feet.
	It's different.

Hardwood floors can be a DIY proposition.  I'd be leery of doing a tile
floor, but wood floors don't scare me.

Pete Brooks
From: egreen@East.Sun.COM (Ed Green - Pixel Cruncher)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Burglers and dogs and snakes, oh my! (was: Re: Burglars and dogs: results of a survey
Date: 28 Jul 92 20:51:33 GMT
Reply-To: egreen@East.Sun.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems, RTP, NC
NNTP-Posting-Host: laser.east.sun.com

In article X005CB@tamvm1.tamu.edu, X005CB@tamvm1.tamu.edu (Chris Barnes) writes:

>3)  Unless they are cornered, the snake will attempt to get away from
>    the intruder, not attack him (95% of the time).

True.  Good, even, it cuts down on liability.

>If I were the burglar, I wouldn't hesitate to go after a place that used
>this.  If they were this dumb, then they probably don't have any other
>type of security to worry about.

If they're trying to secure the smokehouse on the back 40, sure.  I
don't think too many of the thieves on 42nd street are quite as up on
their reptillian behavior habits as you are.

The sign and a mechanically triggered rattle would clear out 98% of
burglers.  Maybe have somebody come drop off/pick up his harmless pet
snake occasionally, just for appearances, if they are "casing" the
place.  Again, 98% of city folks would believe a black snake was a
rattler if you told them so.

---
Ed Green, former Ninjaite |I was drinking last night with a biker,
  Ed.Green@East.Sun.COM   |and I showed him a picture of you.  I said,
DoD #0111  (919)460-8302  |"Go on, get to know her, you'll like her!"
 (The Grateful Dead) -->  |It seemed like the least I could do...
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: ahill@boi.hp.com (Andy Hill)
Subject: Furnace/Water Heater opinions needed
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 17:58:28 GMT
Reply-To: ahill@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com
Organization: Hewlett-Packard
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL3

Howdy, All!

The wife & I are in the process of finalizing our house plans.  Presently,
our builder wishes to use an A.O. Smith water heater and a Day & Night Formula
furnace (both natural gas).  I'm not familiar with either brand, so I'd like
the usual opinions, recommendations, etc.  Also, this furnace is rated as
being 83% efficient (78 KBTUH in, 65 KBTUH out), which seems low for a modern
furnace.  Any opinions on this?

Thanks for any & all advice!

Andy
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas Rand)
Subject: Re: Ants!
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Distribution: misc
Date: 27 Jul 92 13:17:55

In article <1992Jul25.024337.5818@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie) writes:

   In article <22031@venera.isi.edu> jas@ISI.EDU (Jeff Sullivan) writes:
   >
   >Ants keep making their way into my second-story condo, and I don't
   >know from where.  We've cleaned out the cupboards twice and sprayed,
   >but I'd like to try to find a more permanent and possibly less toxic
   >(although that is secondary at this point) way fo stopping their
   >incursion.

   First off. Do you know how to tell carpenter ants from other varieties?
   If not, I'd get an exterminator in to take care of things.

   If you do, and they're not carpenter ants, I'd try some of those ant
   traps. The ones I've had success with were round metal cans about 1/4"
   high and a couple inches around. 

   By the way, carpenter ants are not *all* real large, and they almost
   never have wings. They are black and run between 1/8" and 3/8" long.

Maybe we need a FAQ.ants?  Anyway,  I've seen carpenter ants up to 3/4"
long with wings.  Wings are troublesome because they're on reproductive
ants and that means the nest has 2,000 or more ants and is several years
old.  

Carpenter ants have a little bit of fuzz on their bottom side,  but it's
hard to find this out unless you poison some and look at them (squashing
them doesn't help in this case).
--
Douglas S. Rand <drand@osf.org>		OSF/Motif Dev.
Snail:         11 Cambridge Center,  Cambridge,  MA  02142
Disclaimer:    I don't know if OSF agrees with me... let's vote on it.
Amateur Radio: KC1KJ
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From:  ()
Subject: Carpenter ants 
Organization: Calvin College
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 15:04:34 GMT

We have been (mis)treated by Orkin for the past year for carpenter ants.  
The cost was over $600 for the year.  Can I do the squirting of chemicals
myself?  Do I really need to worry much about carpenter ant damage?  I did
discover a nest myself which precipitated my inquiries.  I read that these ants
don't eat wood, but just tunnel in it (contrary to what the Orkin guy said).
I would appreciate any advice on this problem.


clak@calvin.edu  
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: dk@sequent.com (Dale Koch)
Subject: Dying carpeting
Keywords: Is it worth it?
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems, Inc.
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 92 14:35:45 GMT

L.......T.......T.......T.......T.......T.......T.......T.......T.......T.J

My  parents  just  had an upstairs water line break in their  house,  which
dumped enough water downstairs to cause them to replace their carpet.

The  carpeting that they have is pretty expensive (wool, around $40 a yard)
and I was going to use the undamaged portions of it in my house (to replace
the not so expensive carpeting there).

Unfortunately,  the  carpeting  is WHITE WHITE, and knowing  how  difficult
white carpet is to keep clean, I thought that I would install it, then have
it dyed a different color.

I have called a couple of companies that do this sort of thing in our area,
and  found  that  it  could run from $8 - $15 a yard  to  have  this  done,
depending on the quality of the carpet, number of piles/inch etc....

My questions are:

Does  anyone  have any experience with having done this sort of thing  with
house carpeting (wall to wall)?

Does  is make sense to install it first, then have it dyed, or have it dyed
first, then install it?

How  "permanent"  is the dying process?  Is it something that can still  be
shampooed using a steam extraction unit without altering the color fastness
of the dye?

Any comments would be helpful.  Thanks.
From: wayne@ultra.com (Wayne Hathaway)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: GOOD service from Price Pfister
Date: 23 Jul 92 16:11:47 GMT
Reply-To: wayne@ultra.com (Wayne Hathaway)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Ultra Network Technologies

This is a report of a *GOOD* experience with a manufacturer, so if you
are only interesting in reading complaints, press "n" now!  :-)

I have a five-or-six-year-old Price Pfister single-handle kitchen
faucet that has an oak "button" on the top.  From normal wear, the oak
got to looking pretty ratty.  I tried Varathaning it, and this worked
for a year or so, but then the thing started turning all yucky like it
had dry rot.  (Oh Lord, let that be the ONLY dry rot in the house! :-)

The only replacement buttons the local Price Pfister dealer carries
are stainless steel, so I called Price Pfister Customer Service to
find out where I could buy a replacement oak button.

I described the yucky button, and the service person immediately asked
whether I had ever replaced the cartridge.  A bit taken aback, I said
no, but ...  Then before I could even so much as ask about buying a
replacement she said "Well, it sounds like the button is getting wet
from the bottom, and that means the cartridge needs replacing, so I'll
have a new button, cartridge, and retainer ring sent to you right
away, no charge.  Now, what's your address for UPS?"

Needless to say, I was flabbergasted -- I thought service like this
had gone out of style decades ago!  At any rate, I will certainly buy
Price Pfister in the future (and by the way, this is the ONLY problem
I've had with the faucet) and I would encourage others to do likewise.

We now return you to the bitching and moaning in progress ...  :-)

    Wayne Hathaway               domain: wayne@Ultra.COM
    Ultra Network Technologies     uucp: ...!ames!ultra!wayne
    101 Daggett Drive             phone: 408-922-0100 x132
    San Jose, CA 95134              FAX: 408-433-9287
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: jim@doink.b23b.ingr.com (James B. Reed)
Subject: Re: To close or not to close on a new house with a leak!
Reply-To: jimreed@b23b.ingr.com
Organization: Intergraph
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 14:53:04 GMT

[ ... long description of not-quite-finished house about to close ... ]

In January we closed on our house which had a few problems that
the builder still needed to fix.  Almost all of them are fixed now.
Notice I said "almost".

Once we closed, the builder had virtually no incentive to complete
the work.  There was one problem that he correctly fixed only after
we indicated in a certified letter (return receipt requested) that
we were on the verge of taking legal action.  He had told us before
we moved in what needed to be done to fix the problem, but he kept
trying cheaper, ineffective approaches (for 6 months).

If we ever buy a new construction house again, I will not let the
builder off the hook financially until absolutely everything is
totally complete.  If you can manage it, don't close.  Don't move
in under a rental agreement with a builder (that takes off the
financial pressure).

-- 
James B. Reed                | If at first you don't succeed,
DAZIX, An Intergraph Company | Find out why,
jimreed@b23b.ingr.com        | **THEN** try again.
(205) 730-8874               |
From: brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 16:47:18 GMT
Subject: Re: removing laminate
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house

/ hpcc01:misc.consumers.house / patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie) /  8:15 am  Jul 27, 1992 /
>
>Formica is a brand of plastic laminate. Like all plastics, it gets soft
>if you heat it up. The rounded, raised lip of a typical "drip-proof"
Not if it's a thermo-setting plastic!  (Epoxys are a good example, as
are (I believe) polyurethanes.  They will decompose when
heated sufficiently, but may not get soft.)

Pete (worked more with epoxy than I like to think.) Brooks

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: jadams@vixen.uucp (26070-adams)
Subject: Re: Advice needed on attic mounted HVAC system
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 92 14:30:29 GMT
Summary: Attic furnace/air conditioner OK

In article <14063@borg.cs.unc.edu>, weiss@hatteras.cs.unc.edu (Steve Weiss) writes:
> 
> We are planning an addition for our house.  The enlarged house will be
> too big for our current heating and AC system, so the designer has
> proposed that we leave most of the old part on the old HVAC system and
> put the new addition plus a couple of bedrooms on a second zone.  He
> proposes that the new furnace/blower unit go in our attic.  (Our
> current unit is in the crawl space under the house.)  This also means that all
> the supply vents as well as the air returns will be in the ceiling.
> 
> My questions are:

My responses are based on our new house having been built with a two zone
gas fired furnace / air conditioner in the basement and attic.

>       
>       1. Is it safe to put a gas furnace in an attic?  

Yes, as far as the building  and fire underwriting codes in NJ are concerned.  
Yours may be more or less restrictive.

>       2. (related to 1) Would a heat pump be better?  

IMHO, yes!  Is it worth the added operating cost differential? IMHO, no!

>       3. Will the attic unit be noisy?  

Ours is not and we have occupied this home for three years now.

>       4. Will the ceiling supply and return vents cause a problem with heat?
>          (I assume since cold air sinks, that ceiling vents are ok
>           for AC.)

Our installation used insulated, flexible ducts (The type you see in most
new commercial construction these days).  Since the supply diffusers are
located in each room and the common return is in the hallway outside the
bedrooms, etc. on the second floor, we have had no problem with either
heat or A/C.  (Your mileage may differ however)  8^)!

Jack (John) Adams		| Bellcore RRC 4B-259
(908) 699-3447 {Voice}		| (908) 336-2871 {Facsimile}
jadams@vixen.bellcore.com	| kahuna@attmail.com
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
	-- In programming, as in sex, voyeurism is no substitute for
	first-hand experience.  -- Richard Hamming
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: harrism@aquila.rtp.dg.com (Mike Harris)
Subject: Re: Raccoons - how can I convince them to leave?
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 92 15:21:13 GMT
Reply-To: harrism@dg-rtp.dg.com
Organization: Data General Corp., Research Triangle Park, NC
Keywords: kinder, gentler

In article <1992Jul29.201454.13636@engage.pko.dec.com>, roody@whzguy.shr3.dec.com (Greg Roody) writes:
|> In general, the furry little critter hate, in no particular order:
|> 
|>        *  The smell of Amonia (toss soaked rags into their den - really 
|>           pisses them off)
|> 
|>        *  Noise (set up a loud radio with metal or cRap)
|> 
|>        *  Light  (if you can, shine bright lights into where they are hiding)
|> 
|> If you combine these methods, they will give you a very dirty look as 
|> they wander over to your neighbors house.  Not a permanent fix, but certainly
|> passive enuf. 

	Make sure that food isn't one of the reasons they're homesteading
	at your house. I used to have problems with coons and possums
	visiting until I made sure that there wasn't dog or cat food 
	in the dishes at night.

	regards, Mike
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: cooper@endeavor.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM (Bob Cooper x7429)
Subject: Re: Painting Baseboards
Organization: NCR
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 92 21:29:13 GMT

I wrote earlier

>Well I'm getting ready to do my first painting this weekend and I'm not sure 
>how to attack the baseboard's.  
>
>Problem:  How do you paint the baseboards without getting paint on the carpet? 
>        Assume here that you have fairly plush (3/4") carpet that pushes against
>	  the baseboards.  
>
>Do you pull the carpet back 1 foot or so away from the wall and then hire
>someone to re-install it once the painting is done?
>
>
>Next question - Do you normally paint the baseboard's first and then the wall?

I didn't word my question well enough because of the replies I've gotten.  The 
problem is once the paint is one the baseboard -- assuming I use some kind of 
shield to hold the carpet back when I'm painting -- how does one continue to
hold the carpet back until the paint is dry.  My carpet will spring up and 
rub the wet baseboard if I don't keep it pulled back somehow.

Thanks to all who have responded, I'll try and summarize to the net.


-- 

        -Bob Cooper 
	 Systems Architecture
	 Bob.Cooper@ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM
	 (803) 796-9250
From: mark.stevens@spacebbs.com (Mark Stevens)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Summary of U-Haul vs
Date: 26 Jul 92 07:21:00 GMT
Reply-To: mark.stevens@spacebbs.com (Mark Stevens)
Distribution: na
Organization: SPACE BBS - Menlo Park, CA - 10 Lines + 4gB - 415-323-4193


To: ts@cup.portal.com (Tim W Smith)

TW>Non-local can be reasonable to have someone else move you, too.  Some
TW>friends of mine rented a Ryder truck one-way from the San Jose area
TW>to Seattle to move some stuff they had in storage.  This came to something
TW>like $1200.

I just moved from Seattle to the San Jose area and my 5 day Ryder rental
of a 20 foot truck only cost $450.
---
 . DeLuxe./386 1.25 #42 . 
                                                                                                 
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house