HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: clarke@acheron.uucp (Ed Clarke/10240000)
Subject: Hand tool sources?
Organization: Ciliophora Associates
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 92 12:41:55 GMT

We have lots of information in the faq(s) about power tools, but little on
hand tool sources.  Where can I pick up a good jointer plane?  I've borrowed
an old Bailey #7, but have to give it back sometime.

What are the good names in current metal planes?  Stanley was always so-so,
and I don't know of any other current brands except Record from Garrett-Wade.
Although GW is quite expensive, they usually have good stuff.  How much work
will I have to do to get a new Record plane into operating condition?  (i.e.
is the sole flat?)

Ed Clarke
clarke@watson.ibm.com
clarke@acheron.uucp
-- 
               | One was a deaf mute who shovelled coal, worked  
Ed Clarke      | the bellows, and exorcised the minor demons of
acheron!clarke | puberty by raping chickens.
               |               Hugh Cook - Lords of the Sword
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: guy@slustl.slu.edu (Guy Smith)
Subject: Re: Problem with router
Organization: Saint Louis University  Saint Louis, MO
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 18:11:00 GMT

In article <Bx9JGp.3yx@world.std.com> rdc@world.std.com (Ralph D Clifford) writes:
>dovetails in oak.  When I cut the tails, the bit is slowly pulled up in the
>router.  Needless to say, this screws things up royally.
>
>     The router is a Sears (Yes, I know this is probably the problem.  Forgive
>me, I bought the tool before I knew any better :-) 1-1/2 HP router with a 1/4"
>collet.  The bit is carbide tipped and is sharp.

Is the bit slipping in the collet or the whole motor moving up in the base.
I had the latter problem with a Sears router.
My solution was to junk the Sears router and buy a Porter Cable. A short-term
kludge was to use my Channel Lock pliers to really crank down on the
locking screw.
From: djk@sequent.com (Darin Klaas)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Tools Made in America
Date: 10 Nov 92 22:47:11 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems, Inc.

daved@convex.com (David Dorfman) writes:

>I believe Ryobi builds a lot of the tools sold in the US in the US, 
>the question is are they making the correct amount of profit or passing it
>back to japan by paying inflated prices for the sub-components?

All they are required to do is final assembly; i.e. the bulk of the router
could still be manufactured in japan, with the case being attached to the
moter in the US, and they could claim it was 'made in the USA'.  PBS
documented that Matsushita did this with Quasar TVs not so long ago
(Matsushita had a Quasar plant outside of Chicago).

I'm not saying Ryobi does this; just food for thought.  If you'd like a
transcript of the forementioned PBS program, its available via anonymous
ftp from  monu6.cc.monash.edu.au in pub/nihongo/matsushita.pbs.

-- darin
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: dang@edsi.plexus.COM (Dan Gardner)
Subject: Re: dust collector or bomb? help
Organization: Enterprise Data Systems Incorporated, Appleton WI
Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1992 00:14:39 GMT

jssg3464@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (John S. Schmidt) writes:

>I am usine 4" PVC pipe to run the vaccum lines to each piece of equipment.
>When I told a friend this he said "You are building a bomb." 
>He said that the static electricity would build up in the tube and ignite the dust.  

I have a 2hp 1182CFM dust collector (Grizzly) pulling on two 4"
PVC mailines down the walls in my shop. I have eight blast gates
in the system. I was very concerned about static discharge when
installing. Almost any dust collection literature will warn you that
you need grounding inside and outside any nonconducting pipes.

I ran the system without a ground when it was half assembled to see
if the effect was real. I did notice that static seemed to build up
on the outside of PCV lines and especially on the flexible hoses.
This was most noticeable on the hose between the bags and the blower.

I didn't get a zapping discharge, but when you bent down near the blower
you could feel static pulling at your hair!

I proceed to run a bare wire straight down the inside of the PVC lines.
I made contact with the metal of each machine with these wires. Also,
I wrapped a bare wire down the outside of the PVC and connected it to
the machines as well. The whole thing is connect to earth ground at
several points. 

Basically, I have had no problems with static. I would guess that static
problems would increase when the air is drier in the winter.
-- 
 ___    __________________________________________
|   )  (  dang@cserver.plexus.com                 |
|  (    )                                         |
|   )  (  A woodchip a day keeps the doctor away. |
From: garry@alice.att.com (garry hodgson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Portable heaters in shop
Summary: how about pilot lights?
Date: 9 Nov 92 22:01:54 GMT
Reply-To: garry@alice.UUCP ()
Distribution: rec
Organization: AT&T, Bell Labs

In article <BxE0wz.3J4@da_vinci.it.uswc.uswest.com> kenk@lookout.it.uswc.uswest.com (Ken Kaliszewski) writes:
>With the onset of winter I was wondering what others out there do to
>heat their shops.  I'm looking mainly for comments on portable heaters,
>both electric or kerosine and how safe they might be in the shop.  I
>currently have no dust collection system and I am a little concerned about
>starting a fire or something.

Ken brings up an interesting point.  It got me thinking, too,
what with all the recent discussion of dust bombs in PVC collection
systems.

Is dust in the air a safety problem with a gas furnace?
My shop is in the basement, not far from my furnace.
There's been stuff on the news lately about kids sniffing
gas in their basements, until the fumes hit the pilot light
and KABOOM.  But I haven't really heard of prople blowing
their basements up while woodworking.

-- 
Garry Hodgson			A slow winter day
AT&T Bell Labs			A night like forever
garry@alice.att.com		Sink like a stone
att!alice!garry			Float like a feather
From: smp@cathedral.cerc.wvu.wvnet.edu (Shailesh M. Potnis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: How to make a PC circular saw a 'tight bearing' one
Date: 12 Nov 92 18:20:44 GMT


	I followed the thread on the circular saws in this newsgroup.  I have
an older Porter Cable circular saw.  It is very solidly built and has general
features which I like.  It does have one problem- The jack shaft has some
play in it.  I am trying to explore the possibility of fixing this play by
using new bearings/jack shaft.

	My questions are:

1) Is it necessary to remove the play? How much play is inherent in any saw?
I am personally not impressed by the quality of cuts in the sheet stock, but
I can live with it if this is the state of art of the circular saws.

2) If necessary which parts may have to be changed?

3) Is it possible/practical in terms of cost and the availability of spare
parts.

4) If the answer to 2 above is "yes" then, where do I find the sources for
these parts.  I tried a nearest PC dealer and he could not help.

	All comments and suggestions are highly appreciated.

	Thanks in advance.

	Shailesh
--
Shailesh Potnis, Associate	|Concurrent Engineering Research
Member of Technical Staff	|Center, West Virginia University
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: problem with planer
Date: 12 Nov 92 20:26:26 GMT
Article-I.D.: hpcvaac.1992Nov12.202626.12275
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA

fichtenbaum@desire.wright.edu writes:
: I have a 12" Delta portable planer.  I was planing some stock when
: I noticed that one edge was thinner than the other.  I have reset
: the knives but am still having a problem.  When I feed a narrow piece
: of stock through the planer on the right hand side the planer
: doesn't remove any material but when I feed it through on the left
: hand side it does remove material.  I also tried drawing a line with
: a pencil on a wide board and when I feed it through the planer it
: removes the line on the left but not on the right.  I have spent the
: last two hours trying to reset the knives but apparently to no avail.
: Could there be anything else wrong with the planer?  Or am I just
: having a problem setting the knives straight?  I am using the guide
: that came with the planer to try and set the knives.  Can anyone
: help?

It sounds like the right side of your feed/pressure roller is jammed.
It may be that the pressure spring(s) is/are broken, or there may be
something blocking it vertically.

Fix that, and I am willing to bet that your problem will go away.

Bill
From: billf@hpcvra.cv.hp.com (Bill Faus)
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 19:05:20 GMT
Subject: Homemade 10" grinder plans???
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Corvallis, OR, USA
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

Has anyone seen any plans/products
to mount two 10" grinding wheels to
an arbor with each running in a 
water trough.

Sort of like that Delta wet/dry grinder that has
both a 10" and a 5" grinding wheel.  Only I
wanted to mount a 220 grit and 1000 grit
10" wheel one on each arbor.

Thanks,

-bill
From: owens@gargoyle.uchicago.edu (Christopher Owens)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: UV and glass (was Re: Cherry Aging)
Keywords: aging, cherry,
Date: 5 Nov 92 18:11:43 GMT
Article-I.D.: gargoyle.owens.720987103
Organization: University of Chicago Computing Organizations

In <1992Nov3.210322.25785@mlb.semi.harris.com> luoni@jasper.mlb.semi.harris.com (Perry Luoni) writes:

> UV will go through glass unless the glass has a coating to reflect UV.  Normal 
> clear glass will pass UV.  

I've always been amused that the people who want to sell you special
window glass say "Ordinary window glass doesn't pass wonderful,
health-giving UV, so buy our fancy glass and start reaping the
benefits of UV," while the folks who want to sell you fancy glass for
your picture frames say "Ordinary window glass passes damaging UV, so
buy our fancy glass and start protecting your valuable artwork from
this menace."

 Anybody know what gives?
From: kassover@rumsey.crd.ge.com (David Kassover)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Woodworking humor
Date: 10 Nov 92 19:09:55 GMT
Organization: nope

In article <1992Nov9.200417.19557@access.usask.ca> poole@admin.usask.ca writes:
>
>I worked with a fellow once that believed that a hammer was to be used for
>inserting screws, the screwdriver was only there if you needed to remove them.
>
>BTW. He never did much finishing work. ;)

Hey, Jim, can I borrow a screwdriver?

What size?

Don't matter, I gotta go paint the porch.



-- 
David Kassover             "Proper technique helps protect you against
uupsi!khazad!kassover	          sharp weapons and dull judges."
kassover@aule-tek.com                   F. Collins
kassover@ra.crd.ge.com
From: paul.burnett@pcs.sj.ca.us (Paul Burnett) 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Straight Edge for Jointer Alignment
Date: 11 Nov 92 06:30:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: PCS-BBS - San Jose, CA - 408-270-4085
Reply-To: paul.burnett@pcs.sj.ca.us (Paul Burnett) 

TO: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)


  >: Plate glass is typically quite flat, to optical tolerances....

BN>Nope, not that flat. If you want an optical flat, then you have
  >to grind it. The procedure is the same as grinding any other flat
  >surface. You grind three surfaces against each other.

BN>Plate glass is visually flat only.

Okay, but it's certainly more than flat enough to set planer blades,
isn't it?  Besides the wunnerful advantage you can see through it....

---
 . QMPro 1.0 07-2042 . ...from San Jose, CA
From: armstrng@cs.dal.ca (Stan Armstrong)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re:      Acrylic Problem
Date: 9 Nov 92 22:47:44 GMT
Organization: Math, Stats & CS, Dalhousie University, Halifax, NS, Canada

In article <92313.124051RHG@psuvm.psu.edu> RHG@PSUVM.PSU.EDU writes:
>I finally got around to cutting some 1/4-inch acrylic for cabinet shelves
>after a couple of years, but now I find that the paper backing has stuck
>fast.  I've tried heating a portion, full-strength detergent, soaking
>in the bathtub (the pieces are there now), and scraping with plastic and
>wood.  The scraping works, but slowly, oh how slowly.  And I'm afraid to
>experiments with solvents; I could easily destroy the surface.
>
>Anybody had similar experiences?
>
>Rob

I have had great luck with WD-40 and various tough adhesives. It is great
for label adhesives where you can't use acetone. It is also much more
pleasant to use than acetone. ;-)

Others have suggested salad oil. I have had mixed results, but trying can't
hurt.

-- 
Stan Armstrong. Religious Studies Dept, Saint Mary's University, Halifax, N.S.
Armstrong@husky1.stmarys.ca | att!clyde!watmath!water!dalcs!armstrng
From: gringort@wsl.dec.com (Joel Gringorten)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Homebrew Dust Collector
Date: 5 Nov 92 18:20:43 GMT
Reply-To: gringort@wsl.dec.com (Joel Gringorten)
Organization: DEC Western Software Lab

In article <3942@ecicrl.ocunix.on.ca>, clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis) writes:


|> [...]  The unit was extremely simple.
|> Mount a blower plus motor onto a piece of plywood.  Build some sort
|> of holder for one or more ordinary furnace filters which holds
|> the filter against the blower outlet.  The unit "merely" sucks
|> shop air and pushes it out through the filters back into the shop.
|> Eg: a simple, but high volume recirculating filter.
|> 
|> Then, suspend the rig from the ceiling.  Probably with 1x3's and a bit
|> of diagonal bracing.
|> 
|> >not sure about the FWW mag issue, but check out scott landis'
|> >"workshop book".  i was just thumbing thru it last night, around page
|> >106 or so there is a simple ambient dust sucker build out of an attic
|> >fan (about $45 new) and three furnace filters ($2 ea?) plus scrap
|> >plywood and electrical odds'n'ends.  that's what i'm planning to build
|> >(though the one in WOOD looked great, it would probably end up being
|> >almost $200 unless you have the blower laying around).
|> 
|> It's really only suitable for *large* shops.
   ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Why is this?  Intuitively it would seem more effective in a smaller shop
where the there's simply less air to filter?

-joel
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: rdc@world.std.com (Ralph D Clifford)
Subject: Problem with router
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 21:53:13 GMT

     I am having a problem with my router.  It is not holding the bit firmly
enough.  I am using an almost new 1/2" dovetail bit to make half-blind
dovetails in oak.  When I cut the tails, the bit is slowly pulled up in the
router.  Needless to say, this screws things up royally.

     The router is a Sears (Yes, I know this is probably the problem.  Forgive
me, I bought the tool before I knew any better :-) 1-1/2 HP router with a 1/4"
collet.  The bit is carbide tipped and is sharp.

     Any suggestions to fix the problem would be appreciated.


-- 
Ralph Clifford
From: peterson@ucunix.san.uc.edu (John M. Peterson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: RFI PC Laser Loc Miter Saw
Date: 5 Nov 92 16:00:14 GMT
Organization: University of Cincinnati


Am considering the purchase for our shop of a:

PC Laser Loc 10" Miter Saw

Is there any experience with this particular
tool out there, good or bad.  Does anyone know
what kind of laser it's using?

Thanks for any input!


+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
|  peterson@headcheese.daa.uc.edu      	 In real life: John M. Peterson  |
|                                                                        |
|  College of Design Architecture Art & Planning                         |
|  University of Cincinnati           45221-0016           513-556-1207  |
+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
From: ron@topaz.bds.com (Ron Natalie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re:      Acrylic Problem
Date: 9 Nov 1992 15:10:18 GMT
Organization: BDS Systems
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: topaz.bds.com

> but now I find that the paper backing has stuck

Kerosene, not gasoline, but kerosene.  Doesn't seem to harm the plastic
but does a nice job on various adhesives.  Somebody else suggested peanut
butter, but I'm not sure even how to begin to implement that.

-Ron
From: hortin_lab@wums.wustl.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: RE: Table Saw Stand I Built
Date: 10 NOV 92 11:45:31 GMT
Organization: MIT PLASMA FUSION CENTER
NNTP-Posting-Host: msnews.wustl.edu

i've not kept up.  i occasionally do have to work.  could some one please tell 
me where i can get a diagram or plans of this woodsmith table saw base?  i

have an old craftsman table saw (1960 vintage) i can't find extentions for it
so i thought i might recess it in a base.  i don't have a clue on how i'm going 
to set up the fence.  all advice cheerfully accepted.  TIA
tag
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: leisner@wrc.xerox.com ( Marty Leisner)
Subject: Re: Rip fence to the left?
Reply-To: leisner@eso.mc.xerox.com
Organization: Xerox
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 14:34:51 GMT

I'm lefthanded.  I have a Ryobi BT-3000 and know
 with bevel cuts the blade should not be towards the fence.


Whether to have the fench on the left or the  right of the blade is just a
matter of convenience when I don't make bevel cuts.

--
marty
leisner.henr801c@xerox.com  leisner@eso.mc.xerox.com
Member of the League for Programming Freedom
From: JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.BITNET (Jeff Roberts)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Portable heaters in shop
Date: 12 Nov 92 17:02:21 GMT
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Comments:     Resent-From: Jeff Roberts <JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.BITNET>
Comments:     Originally-From: Jeff Roberts <JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.BITNET>
              9 Nov 1992 16:01:54 -0600 from <garry@ALICE.ATT.COM>

My original response bounced....i'm experimenting a little.

----------------------------Original message----------------------------
On Mon, 9 Nov 1992 16:01:54 -0600 garry hodgson said:
>In article <BxE0wz.3J4@da_vinci.it.uswc.uswest.com>
>kenk@lookout.it.uswc.uswest.com (Ken Kaliszewski) writes:
>>With the onset of winter I was wondering what others out there do to
>>heat their shops.  I'm looking mainly for comments on portable heaters,
>>both electric or kerosine and how safe they might be in the shop.  I
>>currently have no dust collection system and I am a little concerned about
>>starting a fire or something.
>
 I use a 50,000 BTU kerosene "jet engine" style heater in my garage (with the
 garage door open slightly for fresh air of course).  I have found it to be
 a great investment and know that I would not be working as often in the cold
 weather if I didn't have it.  Feeding it can get expensive if you're not
 careful so I keep the temp at about 55-60 degrees.  Buying kerosene in 5 gal.
 drums is a good way to save money (cost=$15). As for fire problems I can tell
 you this:  Saw dust builds up on the floor, it floats in the air and is
 basically everywhere by the time I end a session in the shop.  I've not
 experienced any problems but I make sure I'm not begging for trouble either.
 i.e. push a broom occasionally, be aware of what the heater is pointed at,
 don't leave the shop with the heater running etc.  In general I think they
 are great as long as the person operating the heater has his head screwed on
 straight and doesn't get careless.

 p.s. Fill with kerosene OUTSIDE, I was fueling up my heater with the 5 gal
      drum once when the handle decided to break off the container and gushed
      fuel all over me, the wall and the floor.  The smell lasted for 3 days
      with the garage door open!  I don't know what would have happend if the
      heating element had been hot when this little problem occurred.
      (My house and I would probably be BBQ now!!!)

Jeff Roberts JROBERTS@UTDALLAS
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: Nick_Janow@mindlink.bc.ca (Nick Janow)
Subject: Re: Sharpening and using scrapers
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 06:22:16 GMT

warren@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (warren.a.montgomery) writes:

> Should I expect it to smooth fairly rough stuff?

You could, but it would be like using a pocketknife to cut down a large tree.
For rough stuff, use planes, or power cutting tools.  Think of the scraper as
a hand plane that is set very fine (cutting a very thin shaving).  A scraper
is, after all, a cutting tool.

> How smooth a surface will it produce when properly treated and used?

Fine Woodworking had an article about that.  A properly sharpened hand plane
produces the finest surface.  A scraper produces one only slightly worse.  A
surface sanded with 600 grit paper looks badly scratched in comparison, and
even 1200 grit would be worse than a scraped surface.

The difference between a scraped surface and a sanded one is very noticeable
on oiled hardwood.  Take a scrap of maple or similar wood, plane one, scrape
another, and sand a third.  Look at the difference.  Then apply oil (like
Watco).

I almost never use sandpaper.  I hate the stuff and the surface finish it
leaves.  I can't understand those project directions that say "plane the
surface, then scrape it, and _then_ sand it with 240 grit paper".  Crazy!

> Should I have multiple scrapers sharpened differently for rough and find
> work?

I use a thick scraper with a heavy hook for rough work, and a thin one for
finer work.  However, one medium-thick scraper is enough, and it's so easy to
sharpen and burnish (with practice) that you simply resharpen/burnish it for
the task of the moment.

> Will it do anything productive on end grain?

It can, but it isn't it's strong suit.  For end grain, I prefer a plane, or a
file in some cases.

> I used the "file and burnish" technique to sharpen mine with moderate
> success, but the process is still very much trial and error to me.  Is it
> worth investing in a burnishing gadget?

Some people like them; I think they're just a gadget to waste money on.  If
you practice a bit with a normal burnishing tool (or back of chisel or other
bit of hard steel), you'll find that it becomes quite easy to do.  I'm not an
expert on scrapers, but I can produce a good hook with just a few strokes.
As with most things, it seems difficult at first, then it becomes second
nature.

> Any good references on the use and care of scrapers?

The best one I've seen was a description in a Lee Valley Tools catalogue.

--

Nick_Janow@mindlink.bc.ca
From: paul.burnett@pcs.sj.ca.us (Paul Burnett)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Straight Edge for Jointer Alignment
Date: 5 Nov 92 05:34:00 GMT
Reply-To: paul.burnett@pcs.sj.ca.us (Paul Burnett)
Organization: PCS-BBS - San Jose, CA - 408-270-4085

TO: dgolber@aero.org (Dave Golber)


DG>My favorite straightedge: Go to a machinist's supply house.
  >Ask for "ground flat stock".

Plate glass is typically quite flat, to optical tolerances....

---
 . QMPro 1.0 07-2042 . ...from San Jose, CA
                                                                                          
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Organization: Penn State University
Date:         Sun, 8 Nov 1992 12:40:51 EST
Comments:     Warning -- original Sender: tag was NETNEWS@PSUVM.PSU.EDU
From:         RHG@PSUVM.PSU.EDU
Subject:      Acrylic Problem

I finally got around to cutting some 1/4-inch acrylic for cabinet shelves
after a couple of years, but now I find that the paper backing has stuck
fast.  I've tried heating a portion, full-strength detergent, soaking
in the bathtub (the pieces are there now), and scraping with plastic and
wood.  The scraping works, but slowly, oh how slowly.  And I'm afraid to
experiments with solvents; I could easily destroy the surface.

Anybody had similar experiences?

Rob
======================================================================
Robert Gannon              |  Bitnet:    RHG@PSUVM
35 Burrowes Bldg.          |  Internet:  RHG@PSUVM.PSU.EDU
Penn State                 |  Phone:     814 355-4800 or 355-0943
University Park, PA 16802  |  Fax:       814 863-7285
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking