HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: m17108@mwunix (Jason Douglas)
Subject: Re: Changing the brake fluid....?
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean VA
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 15:06:37 GMT

In article <93007.151915IA80024@MAINE.MAINE.EDU> IA80024@MAINE.MAINE.EDU (Nicholas C. Hester) writes:
>Well, I had my 30k mile checkup the other day.  I talked with the
>service manager about changing the brake fluid as the book said, but
>he said that it was a waste of time and could cause problems ie air
>in the lines.  He said that he'd do it but he'd never performed it
>on Saabs (their other line of cars) and it was ok.  I relented and
>didn't have him do it.
>
>Ok, does it really make that much of a difference if I don't have it
>changed?  What does the group think?
>
>Thanx in advance!
>
>___
>
>  Nicholas  Hester
>ia80024@Maine.bitnet
>ia80024@Maine.maine.edu

     Consider this as a single data point.  One of the parts guys at a local
audi dealer told me this story.  when the factory modified standard service
procedures for changing brake fluid to add changing the fluid in the
hydraulic clutch circuit, their required stocking level of clutch slave 
ylinders fell from 10 to 1.  The obvious interpretation is that regular 
fluid changing will save many $$ later on.

BTW, many folks are intimidated by brake bleeding because brakes are a "safety"
system.  Its actually an easy job if you are clean, methodical, and don't cut
corners.

Jason (jdouglas@mitre.org)
From: keys@starchild.ncsl.nist.gov (Lawrence B. Keys)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Changing the brake fluid....?
Date: 8 Jan 93 19:19:02 GMT
Organization: National Institute of Standards & Technology

In article <93007.151915IA80024@MAINE.MAINE.EDU> IA80024@MAINE.MAINE.EDU (Nicholas C. Hester) writes:
>Well, I had my 30k mile checkup the other day.  I talked with the
>service manager about changing the brake fluid as the book said, but
>he said that it was a waste of time and could cause problems ie air
>in the lines.  He said that he'd do it but he'd never performed it
>on Saabs (their other line of cars) and it was ok.  I relented and
>didn't have him do it.
>
>Ok, does it really make that much of a difference if I don't have it
>changed?  What does the group think?
>
>Thanx in advance!
>
>  Nicholas  Hester

I think that if you want to have optimum braking performance one
should change the brake fluid once every two years regardless of
the number of miles.  Brake fluid attracts moisture.  Moisture 
lowers the fluids boiling point, allowing the fluid to boil more
easily by the heat generated during braking.  Boiling fluid will
create air bubles in the system and air unlike brake fluid is 
compressible, which will reduce braking efficency. 
                                                  .  
                                                 /                
Larry                            __/    _______/_                 
keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov       /                  \               
                          _____     __     _____    \------- ===
            ----------- / ____/   /  /   /__  __/              \
         /     ___    /  / ___   /  /      / /    ____          |
        |    /      \/ /__ /  | /  /__  __/ /__ /       \      / 
        /___         \_______/ /_____/ /______/            ====OO
            \       /                           \       /         
                -                                   -
       ---------------- FAHRVERGNUGEN FOREVER! --------------------            
            The fact that I need to explain it to you indicates
            that you probably wouldn't understand anyway!
       ------------------------------------------------------------
From: scottmo@tekig5.pen.tek.com (Scott John Mockry)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: thermostat
Summary: I would advise staying with the stock thermostat and louvers.
Date: 13 Jan 93 01:27:38 GMT

In article <12JAN199310095893@nessie.cc.wwu.edu>, 8635660@nessie.cc.wwu.edu (Jay Lonner) writes:
> Hello,
> 
> Is it advisable to remove the thermostat from a Type I engine and just leave
> the flaps open all the time?  I've heard that it increases airflow, but at the
> cost of rough startups (esp. in colder weather).  Are there any other side
> effects that I should look out for if I choose to do this?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Jay.

Jay,
I would stay with the stock thermostat and louver setup. Gene Berg in
Orange, CA has done extensive testing on the stock cooling system and
has concluded that removing the thermostat, and louvers ends up making
the engine wear out quicker due to longer warm up. If you are concerned
with over heating and high oil temperatures check out your compression
ratio. One problem that occurs with rebuilt vw air cooled engines
(my opinion and Gene Berg's) is overheating due to the compression
ratio being too high for todays gasoline. The heads and case are often
flycut to improve the sealing area and this raises the compression above
the stock ratio. Adding big bore cylinders will do the same unless they
are shimmed under the barrels to increase deck height. My personal
experience has been that my engine (1775cc dual 42DCNF Webers and
9.0 to 1 compression) ran with an oil temperature from 240-260 degrees F
(outside air temp was 80-90 degrees F). Lowering the compression down
to 6.8 to 1 reduced the oil temp to 210 degrees even with outside air
temps of 100 degrees F.  This was using the stock 1971 doghouse cooling
system with a full flow oil filter.  The engine has 88K on it and still
runs great. All of this assumes that your carburation and ignition timing
are set correctly. Contact Gene Berg if you want to become an expert
on VW air cooled engines. 
					Scott
From: steveh@amadeus.wr.tek.com (Steve Huss)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Qustions on Vanagon with Weekender Package
Date: 6 Jan 93 22:03:04 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Beaverton,  OR.

Hi folks!

I'm considering buying a Vanagon with the weekender package (If I can
find one) I like the idea of some storage with a bed. I'm pretty sure 
that some or all variations came with a pop top, this would also be 
nice. I'm shying away from a full fledged camper because I need the 
seating/storage space and don't want to always carry around 
a complete kitchen.

My hunch is that the weekender was only available for a few years before
VW just provided the GL camper to the US market. Anyone out there that 
can detail the years available and the exact configurations? Also, did
the rear bench/bed extend the complete width of the van or was there
more cabinetry similar to the camper?

Thanks for any help,

Steve
From: kjk0@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (KEVIN J. KRESS)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: [W] 5 Pot engine
Date: 9 Jan 93 22:05:41 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

In article <1247@bazooka.amb.org>, ti@bazooka.amb.org (Ti Kan) writes:
>In article <1993Jan1.200105.18390@julian.uwo.ca> morton@gaul.csd.uwo.ca (Brent
Morton) writes:
>>In article <1992Dec31.182539.13041@wes.on.ca> tomh@wes.on.ca (Tom Haapanen) wr
ites:
>>>> michaelb@compnews.co.uk (Michael Burton) writes:
>>>>> Having read about the bullet proof 5 cylinder engine that Audi produce,
>>>>> I must say that my Audi Coupe 2ltr had done nearly 110000 miles and
>>>>> it is still as sweet as a nut.
>>>
>>>bernie@metapro.DIALix.oz.au (Bernd Felsche) writes:
>>>> My Audi 5+5 (which became the "90" in Europe) had 178000 km
>>>> on it when sold. Burnt a bit of oil. Mechanic told me it was
>>>> all through the valve guides as compression was still good.
>>>
>>>Mu friend's '84 Audi Coupe GT has 385,000 km (240,000 miles) on it right
>>>now on the original engine.  Things wear out slowly, but it just keeps
>>>going and going and going...
>>
>>My '84 4000 S went 252 000 km (157 500 miles) of hard driving on the original
>>engine, and now has 87 000 km (54 000 miles) on its second engine, which I
>>transplanted from a wrecked '86.
>
>Looks like we're starting a cacade... My '80 Audi 4000 now just passed the
>175,000 mile mark, and that trusty 1.6L engine is still running strong.  At
>the rate it's going, it'll probably last another 100,000 miles.  But, I
>want more power, so I made myself a new year's resolution that this year
>sometime, I will upgrade it to a Techtonics 2045cc motor with a ported
>hydraulic head... I can't wait.
>
>VW/Porsche/Audi.  You know it makes sense.
>
>-Ti
>
>
>--
>    ///  Ti Kan                vorsprung durch technik
>   ///   AMB Research Laboratories, Sunnyvale, CA. USA
>  ///    ti@amb.org
> //////  ...!{decwrl,synopsys,tandem,tsoft,ultra}!sgiblab!bazooka!ti
>///      ...!{uunet,sun,apple,sco}!altos!bazooka!ti
>
To all V.W./Audi nuts--- My 2 cents worth = A 69 bug with 140,000 miles and an
81 Audi 4000 with 110,000 miles.  Both cars look new, run strong, and are the
most reliable cars I've ever owned.  Absolutely cannot be beat.  Kevin
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: eldred@rrunner.jpl.nasa.gov (Dan Eldred)
Subject: Re: Qustions on Vanagon with Weekender Package
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 23:50:45 GMT

In article <11099@wrgate.wr.tek.com> steveh@amadeus.wr.tek.com (Steve Huss) writes:
>Hi folks!
>
>I'm considering buying a Vanagon with the weekender package (If I can
>find one) I like the idea of some storage with a bed. I'm pretty sure 
>that some or all variations came with a pop top, this would also be 
>nice. I'm shying away from a full fledged camper because I need the 
>seating/storage space and don't want to always carry around 
>a complete kitchen.
>
>My hunch is that the weekender was only available for a few years before
>VW just provided the GL camper to the US market. Anyone out there that 
>can detail the years available and the exact configurations? Also, did
>the rear bench/bed extend the complete width of the van or was there
>more cabinetry similar to the camper?
>
My '80 Vanagon came with a fold-out bed, a full-height cabinet on the
driver's side, a half-height cabinet on the passenger side, and a sink/
cabinet just behind the driver's seat.  It also had a water tank and a
electric water pump, and a small table.  It did not have the pop top.
I believe that the camper conversion may have been done in the states
based on a sticker that I recall seeing but is long gone now.  I've
only seen one other similarly equipped Vanagon.  I like not having the
pop top as I can go into parking structures.  I threw away the sink and
associated cabinetry to gain more hauling space.  The bed is the same
width as that which was on my old '71 bus (may it rest in peace).

Complaints:  1) I don't think the quality of the cabinetry is as good as
in later camper Vanagons;  2) I miss the bench seat which was behind the
driver's seat on my '71.

	- Dan		eldred@rrunner.jpl.nasa.gov
From: william@castle.ed.ac.uk (William Warburton)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: [A] Re: [W] What's up with that...
Date: 6 Jan 93 15:16:53 GMT
Reply-To: W.Warburton@ed.ac.uk
Organization: Edinburgh University Computing Service

In article <1993Jan06.102028.13927@wes.on.ca>, tomh@wes.on.ca (Tom Haapanen) writes:

|> Now, my 914 shift pattern certainly takes more getting used to:  :)
|> 
|> 	R  2  4
|> 	|  |  |
|> 	+--+--+
|> 	|  |  |
|> 	1  3  5

 Hey, that's just like a 2CV but with a fifth gear!

 Small Citroens (Deux Chevaux, Dyane, Ami 6 & 8) have this pattern:


 	R  2  4
 	|  |  |
 	+--+--+
 	|  |
 	1  3             Weird, huh?

 But I don't suppose many VW enthusiasts care.

 Never mind, at least they're all air-cooled!

	W.
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
From: 8635660@nessie.cc.wwu.edu (Jay Lonner)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Needs new fuel pump?
Date: 11 Jan 93 18:35:00 GMT
Article-I.D.: nessie.11JAN199310350857
Reply-To: 8635660@nessie.cc.wwu.edu
Organization: Western Washington University
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.40

In article <1993Jan11.103903.1@cc.uvcc.edu>, coldje@cc.uvcc.edu writes... 

>I'm thinking about buying a 66 VW bug.  It's cheap.  One problem 
>though, there seems to be gas in the oil.  The current owner is 
>clue-less and wants it out of his garage fast.  Am I off the 
>mark by thinking that the fuel pump needs to be replaced and is 
>leaking gas into the cankcase? 
>  
>Thanks in advance. 
>S. Jeff Cold 
>jeffco@fac.uvcc.edu 
>  
>  

I'm no VW expert (yet), but from what I understand gas leaks into the oil
routinely on VW engines -- one of those things that you don't hear too much
about.  The different rates of expansion/contraction between the heads and the
bottom end mean that gas does indeed have a chance to get into the oil,
especially in stop and go driving.

In fact, I was just talking to an elderly gentleman of vast VW knowledge who
insisted that you change the oil in your VW every 500(!) miles, for the above
reasons.  He was pretty passionate about it, so what the heck, oil's cheap,
I'll do it.

The bottom line for you is that I wouldn't worry so much, maybe retorqueing the
heads and changing the oil is all that you need to do.  Of course, you've got
to pull the engine to retorque the heads...

Jay. 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: garrett@Ingres.COM (Smokers are productive, but death cuts efficiency)
Subject: Re: [A]:Floods and VWs...some Questions....
Summary: More advice  
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.4-b1  
Keywords: 
Organization: ASK Computer Systems, Ingres Product Division
Date: 13 Jan 93 02:55:03 GMT

In article <C0rqF3.Cn@umassd.edu>, rgolen@UMASSD.EDU                                                  writes...
>In article <1993Jan12.154439.13526@bsu-ucs>, 01ksdavis@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu (Rebel without a pause.) writes:
>>	My question is, I notice after these forced-nautical maneuvers, certain
>>things happen to the car.
>>
>>	1.)Windows fog up, and I mean really quick like.  Outside of keeping a
>>	   towel handy, what's the best way of combatting this?
>The windows fogging up are as a result of water getting into the heater
>boxes, turning to steam and comming through the heater channels and
>out against a cooler windshield...and voila...condensation. Best way
>of combatting this other than a towel....dont drive in big puddles..

My windows fog up when there is a couple of inches of water on the 
floorboards.
> 
>>	2.)The brakes disappear.  Totally.  I handle this by driving slow and
>>	   letting them dry out (not easy in a wet climate.)  Pumping the brakes
>>	   seems to help some.  Is there any way to prevent this?
>>
>Drum brakes have this nasty habit of fading when they get wet. Two ways
>of preventing this...1. spend lots of money and convert to disk brakes
>front and rear...or 2. dont drive in big puddles...

You might also want to check if there are plugs in the holes where you
adjust the brakes. This is a problem I posted just a few months ago. Since
then I hit up a junkyard and found them (simple little rubber plugs). 
although my brakes still aern't great, they improved dramatically in the
rain after I put them in.
	BTW, I know what you mean by the brakes disappearing. I've drove
him in a cold sweat several times, because I had no brakes.
> 
>Ric
>>	Any answers you can give me would be greatly appreciated.
>>
>>1234567890223456789032345678904234567890523456789062345678907234567890823456789?
>>	Kyle S. Davis		01ksdavis@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu?	R R 2 BOX 103

-Garrett
From: mwsn_ss@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (matthew weasner)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: VW Bug Front Tires should be 18 lb?[A]
Date: 12 Jan 93 22:05:36 GMT
Organization: University of Rochester (Rochester, NY)

In article <1993Jan7.201736.25639@nntp.nta.no> BARANSKI@veamf1.nusc.navy.mil (Jim Baranski) writes:
>It says in the glovebox of my 72 bug, that the front tires should be 18 lb?
>
>Is that right?  That sounds terribly low.  Will 18 lb make a difference from
>the usual 32 lb?
>
>Jim Baranski

Didn't bugs originally come with a different sort of tire than the radials most
people get now? Bias-ply I think they were called, with the flat surface 
touching the road, instead of rounded like radials. So maybe 18lbs is for that
sort of tire? Ah well, my two cents...
matt.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: dbr2@cec2.wustl.edu (Dhruva Bollam Reddy)
Subject: Re: Help: 85 Golf water leaks when rain and flickering coolant light.
Organization: Washington University, St. Louis MO
Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1993 18:19:50 GMT

My '83 Quantum leaked onto the driver's side whenever parked in a heavy rain.
It was traced to a missing grommet at the antenna mounting hole and caulked.
Dhruva
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mercier@charon.rutgers.edu (Gregoire Mercier)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: SALE VW Vanagon 90
Keywords: Sale Vanagon 90
Date: 12 Jan 93 17:47:06 GMT
Distribution: rec.autos.vw
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.


	I am posting this for a friend, but just contact me and I
will give you the number to call him.

	1990 VW Vanagon(sp?) with 19k miles, in very clean condition.
	Need to have a year and a half leasing taken over.

	Althought it is not really appropriate for this group,
he also wants to sell a 1966 Morris Copper Mini. It is silver 
with a black top, and has a factury rebuilt engine with about 
10k miles on it. 

	If interested please respond! 


Gregoire Mercier        mercier@jove.rutgers.edu
From: wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Carbs vs Fuel Injection
Date: 6 Jan 93 16:36:38 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: thor.ins.cwru.edu


Ahh, the old FI vs. Carb war!  We went through this a year and a half ago
or so.  My oft-voiced humble opinion is that on air-cooled engines, FI is
GREAT when it works and EXPENSIVE when it doesn't, based on first hand 
knowledge from my '77 bus.  And despite my frequent rantings, I still haven't
gotten around to swapping the FI on it with a Weber.  From what I understand,
the Weber set up will be as good as the FI in terms of performance.  I'm
not sure how the emissions would match up, though.  I've also heard that
the AFC FI on my bus (can't remember which "-tronic" it is) is FAR simpler
and easier than the earlier electronic FI systems which were used as early
as '68 on the type III's.

YMMV.
Bill
-- 
William Claspy		Case Western Reserve University
wpc@po.cwru.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: stehle@erg.sri.com (Roy Stehle)
Subject: Re: VW Bug Front Tires should be 18 lb?
Organization: SRI International, Menlo Park, CA
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 93 18:41:55 GMT

In article <1993Jan8.140726.4461@nntp.nta.no> BARANSKI@veamf1.nusc.navy.mil (Jim Baranski) writes:
>
>So, should I actually inflate my front tires to only 18 lbs?  Will this
>decrease rattling etc?  Is the reason that the front tire pressure is so low
>because there is very little weight up front in the bug?

A lot will depend on the specifications of the tire manufacturer.
You should consult their recommendations and not a sticker in the glovebox.
Some variance (in the order of a few PSI) should be allowed for average
number of passengers carried.

For a point of reference, I've had Beetles (and other VWs) since 1957.
I have a total mileage, over that time, of about 400,000 miles in just
Beetles.  Mostly, I've run Michelin X's at 27 PSI (front) and 30 PSI (rear).
The cars were driven hard in competitive T&D rallies and at freeway speeds.
The ride may have been "hard", partly due to Koni shocks, but it was secure
and responsive.  The treadwear, which should be a significant indicator of
proper inflation, was quite even at these pressures and I got 40-60K miles
on a tire.

Roy Stehle
stehle@erg.sri.com
From: chan@sumax.seattleu.edu (Anthony K.B. Chan)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Help: 85 Golf water leaks when rain and flickering coolant light.
Date: 3 Jan 93 19:23:47 GMT
Article-I.D.: sumax.1i96o3INNqtt
Distribution: world
Organization: Seattle University
NNTP-Posting-Host: sumax.seattleu.edu

My brother has an 85 Golf which seems to have develop a water leak the
somewhere around the front windshield area. Everytime when he drive in the 
rain it seems like the carpet around the footwell on both passenger and driver
side get pretty damp. He had used some silicon sealant to seal the windshield
but it didn't seems to help. Does anyone out there has any clue that where the
leak may be coming from? He is pretty sure that it is rain water not coolant.
There is no leak in the coolant system, the heater core is new, just replaced
a month ago by the dealer. The leaking problem has existed for a while but 
lately it getting worse since it been raining alot  and very heavily in 
Honolulu(he lives in Honolulu).

He also notice another problem just developed  yesterday that is 
during cold start the coolant light has a tendancy to blink until the car
reach operating temperature. Once the car reached operating temperature the
light will stop blinking and goes off as it should. It does not  do that during
warm start. Again he is very sure that there is no coolant leak in the system.
Could it be the warning light switch going bad(the one attached to one of the
cooling hose)? I understand the light is suppose to blink a few times for
self-check but not continously until the coolant reach operating temperature.

Thanks,

Anthony
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mark@wdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Re: Carbs vs Fuel Injection
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 22:48:51 GMT

Seems like it was only 3 months ago we talked about this.   I sort of agree with
Bill Claspy on the air-cooled FI systems, except that my 69 Type-3 Fastback only
cost about $70 for FI maintenance over the 4 years I owned it.  It was the simpler
D-Jetronic.  During the 70's VW went through a lot of complicated electronic systems
for their air-cooled cars and some have decided to forego all that confusion and
convert to carbs.   

However, when VW changed from carbs to K-Jetronic in 1977 for the water-cooled cars
it is now the system of choice for me.  Simple, effective, and tough as nails. 
The small refinement of Lambda feedback in the early 80's helps it meet the tougher
emissions requirements without undue complexity.   

The K-Jetronic is so simple that I often ponder whether if it could be adapted to
the air-cooled cars without much fuss?  The biggest problem would be mounting the
throttle body to the intake manifold and finding a good place for the control
pressure regulator.  Machining some adaptors to put the infectors into the same
mounting holes as the electric ones.  Probably would work best on a Karmann Ghia or
older bus where there is room on the side of the engine bay.   I'll keep pondering.

Mark

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw