HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov (Larry Keys)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: VW "SERVICE ACTION CAMPAIGN RY"
Date: 1 Sep 92 19:07:30 GMT
Organization: National Institute of Standards & Technology


Hi volks!

Well i haven't seen anything posted about this subject, so i guess
that i'll be the one.

This past weekend i received a Recall Notification in the mail.  Before,
anyone says, "here we go again with the Heater Core thing again", let me
say that this Recall is not about the Heater Core.  Below is the text
taken from the letter that i received in the mail. Printed without 
permission.

This letter is provided only FYI, not to "knock" VW.  I would never
do that. :) Seriously.

Subject: Service Action Campaign RY
         Engine Driveability Improvement

Dear Volkswagen Owner:

We are writing to inform you of a condition in your vehicle which could
affect its driveability.  It is possible that you could experience
a slight hesitation during the upshift cycle from one gear to another.
Although barely noticeable, we nevertheless would like to correct this 
condition by installing improved engine management components into your
vehicle.

Please contact your authorized Volkswagen dealer as soon as possible so 
that this service can be performed. This service, of course, will be free
of charge to you and will take approximately one hour to complete.

As part of our commitment to maintain your satisfaction with your 
Volkswagen, we want to make sure that your vehicle performs to your
expectations and hope that you will make arrangements with your dealer
at your earliest convenience.

Thank you for driving a Volkswagen.



I called to make an appointment, and to find out exactly what would be
done, and it seems that they will be replacing the computer.

Some of you may remember, that i am the VW owner who had his "Motronic
Control Unit" (MCU) replaced back in January.  Actually since the unit
has been replaced i haven't had any problems.  I was experiencing the
infamous idle reving problem, but not any more!

Did anyone else get this letter?


BTW, my car is a 1990.

                                                   .              
                                                 /                
Larry                            __/    ______ /                  
keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov       /                \                 
                         _ _ _      __      _____  \------- ===   
            ---------- /  __ /    /  /    /__  __/            \   
         /            /  / ____  /  /       / /                |  
        |            / /___/  / /  /__   __/ /__              /   
        /_____       \______/  /_____ / /______/        --- ////   
             \_____           2 liter 16v       \_______/         
                                                                              
        Fahrvergnugen forever!

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rll@frieda.mitre.org (NAME)
Subject: Re: 1.9L ekodiesel (was: Production Delay)
Organization: ORGANIZATION
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 17:45:12 GMT

>borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski) writes:
>> The 1.6 liter ecodiesel does something like 57, 58, or 59 HP...

Tom Haapanen writes: 
>	1.9L ekodiesel 	    75 hp @ 4200 rpm	150 Nm @ 2400 rpm

Pardon my ignorance, but what is an ECO diesel engine?  I have seen
the ECO badge in some of the later models.  Is it Electronically
controlled?

Thanks
From: ari@nersc.gov (Ari Ollikainen)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Ventilation/Heating Controls (Vanagon)
Summary: A quick quide to Vent/Heat sliders
Keywords: RTFM
Date: 28 Aug 92 02:58:59 GMT
Organization: National Energy Research Supercomputer Center, Livermore CA
Originator: ari@viipuri.nersc.gov

Some people asked for a quick refresher on how to use/adjust the vent/heat
sliders on the Vanagon ( other VWs are similar). The following is copied from
my 1985 Vanagon/Transporter Owner's Manual. [] indicate editorial comments.

A	[@@@]==========================  ^^
B      		[@@@]==================
	O			       O
C	V =============[@@@]===========       FAN
D	  =========================[@@@]     SWITCH (E)


Levers A and C - Air Distribution
	Lever A at right - Windshield and side window outlets [fully] open.
	Lever C at left - Footwell outlets under dashboard and footwell
                          outlets in passenger compartment* [fully] open.
        [ These slide levers meter air across range from fully closed to 
          fully open]

Lever B - Temperature Control
	To increase heat - slide lever right	
	To decrease heat - slide lever to left [ full left is OFF]

Lever D - Roof outlets in passenger compartment*
	To increase outside air flow - slide lever to left
	To decrease outside air flow - slide lever to right
	 [full right is OFF]

Fan Control Switch E
	The air volume can be regulated with 3 fan speed settings
	 [0=off+1,2,3]

Defogging and defrosting windshield and side windows

	Slide aqll control levers to the extreme right and turn fan 
	control	switch E to speed setting 2.

	The fan control switch for the secondary heat exchanger should 
	be off.	[Vanagon specific]

Warming up vehicle interior quickly

	Slide levers A, B and D to extreme right.
	Slide lever C to extreme left.
	Close dashboard fresh-air outlets. 
	Turn fan control switch E to speed setting 2.

Warming up vehicle interior normally

	Once the windshield and side windows are clear and the vehicle 
	interior is warm, you may want to set the controls as follows:

	Slide lever A to the left.
	Slide lever B to desired temperature setting.
	Slide lever C toward center.
	Turn fan control switch E to speed setting 1.

Outside air ventilation

	With lever B at extreme left [heat OFF], outside air is emitted 
	from all open outlets. When lever B is moved toward the right, 
	outside air is emitted only from open dashboard vents [ and 
	passenger compartment roof outlets *].

Hints
	All operating controls, except fan control switch  E and fan
	control switch for the secondary heat exchanger*, can be 
	adjusted to any intermediate position.

	Stale air is drawn out of the vehicle interior through vents 
	in on the front door panels [ or through vents in C-pillar in 
	some 1988 and later models]. The vents can be opened or closed 
	by sliding the lever forward [open] or rearward [closed].

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: K_LEPA@unhh.unh.edu (Kristen   Lepa)
Subject: What's the scoop on used Vanagons (sp?)?
Organization: University of New Hampshire
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 04:42:39 GMT
X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.12

My boyfriend is out to buy a used Vanagon.  It's an '87 four-speed.  He
wants to know if there is anything that he should be looking for in the
way of defects/commonplace wear.  It has about 80K on it, so it's been
ridden hard (hopefully not put up wet, though).  He's hoping to trade in
his '85 Golf, five-speed for it.  What's the book on that?  The oil has been
changed religiously every 2-2.5K miles for the entire life of the car.
How much should he be looking to dicker down to for the Vanagon?  I think
the guy is asking 6.5K.  Dan wants to talk him down to about 5K.

Any ideas or tips will be appreciated!

	-Kristen

k_lepa@unhh.unh.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: hall@buffa.enet.dec.com (Dan Hall)
Subject: Re: GTI heater Core recall
Keywords: heater core
Reply-To: hall@buffa.enet.dec.com
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation, Merrimack, NH
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 92 13:18:16 GMT


In article <hersh.715544539@xenon.lcs.mit.edu>, hersh@expo.lcs.mit.edu (Jay Hersh) writes:

>A while back I posted indicating I had received a recall notice
>the notice said I would be informed when parts were available
>at my local dealer.  I have been waiting for over two months
>and have called VW twice and they continue to say that the parts
>are not available yet and I will be receiving a letter.
>
>Has anyone received notification that parts are available for
>this heater core repair??

Jay,

I had reason to call VWoA earlier this week for another reason, but the subject
of the heat exchanger recall came up.  The fellow I spoke to said that they are 
repairing cars in chronological order, older cars first, and that they are up
to about 1987 so far.  He said I'd be getting called regarding my 1988 Jetta
soon.

I was calling to ask about an alleged "secret recall" because of bad exhaust
manifold studs.  The company that holds the service contract on my car put me
on that wild goose chase.  Needless to say, there is no such recall.  I just
spent $330 to have an exhaust manifold gasket leak fixed, and the service
contract company is refusing to pay for the service because, horror of horrors,
my exhaust manifold studs are rusty!  Gosh, how did 4 year old, 96,000 mile
exhaust manifold studs ever get rusty?  What a bunch of weasels.  Arguing with
the adjuster weasel over the phone from 1000 miles away was futile.  When I
countered that sure, the studs were rusty, but they were not broken, and were
all torqued properly, he responded that "Torque has nothing to do with it".

--
 Dan Hall   Digital Equipment Corporation   MKO1-2/H10   Merrimack, NH   03054
 hall@buffa.enet.dec.com		        ....!decwrl!buffa.dec.com!hall
  
 		      "Adhere to Schweinheitsgebot
	Don't put anything in your beer that a pig wouldn't eat"  --David Geary

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: ingram@sequent.com (Bill Ingram)
Subject: Re: Type 3
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems Inc.
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 92 17:26:13 GMT

In article <1992Sep3.171733.12485@sequent.com> ingram@sequent.com (Bill Ingram) writes:
% I would like some input on this, for I have to let the
% owner know by tomorrow.
% He has a 1970 Fastback w/auto, dual Webers, and a very straight 
% body. The engine appears OK, not great though. The auto sleeps (slips!)
% when cold staring out in drive only. If starting out in 1st, no problem,
% I just row it through the gears (3 speed auto). There is NO downshift
% if left in drive (3rd). Any guesses to the automatics problem? Fluid
% looks fine, both color, level and smell. 
% Interior is acceptable. Dash is ragged, windshield cracked. No rust     
% ANYWHERE!
% He's firm on $400. What do you'll say? Can the conversion to 4 sp be
% easily done? I have done it on type 1's, but I have limited knowledge
% of type 3's.
% BTW-no sunroof, but factory (dealer?) Porsche style chrome wheels and
% tight alround suspension. Brakes fine.
%
% Help, I need a good argument to convince the wife this really is a 
% good buy (I already own 2 71' Supers!)!!
%
% Thanx-Bill
%


Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: tomh@wes.on.ca (Tom Haapanen)
Subject: 1.9L ekodiesel (was: Production Delay)
Organization: Waterloo Engineering Software
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 14:29:11 GMT

> hsk@microplex.com (Harjeet Kalsi) writes:
>>> When the next generation Golf/Jetta make their debut in a few months here
>>> they will have a new (finally!) diesel/turbodiesel 1.9 liter engine, that
>>> pumps out as much horsepower and a lot more torque than their gas engines
>>> of a just a [few years ago?]

borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski) writes:
> Anyone have more technical details here?  The normally aspirated 1.6 liter
> engine generates only 52 HP stock (though a screwdriver and wrench can get
> you more HP and more smoke).  The 1.6 liter ecodiesel does something like
> 57, 58, or 59 HP.  Assuming they want an engine as clean as the ecodiesel,
> blindly scaling to 1.9 liters would give you not give you any more than
> 70 HP, which is well short of the gas models.

Note: these are all European engines with DIN horsepower and torque...

	1.9L diesel 	    64 hp @ 4400 rpm	124 Nm @ 2100 rpm  [1Y]
	1.9L ekodiesel 	    75 hp @ 4200 rpm	150 Nm @ 2400 rpm  [AAZ]

	1.8L Mono-Motronic  75 hp @ 5000 rpm	140 Nm @ 2500 rpm  [AAM]
	1.8L Mono-Motronic  90 hp @ 6000 rpm	145 Nm @ 2500 rpm  [ABS]

Not too shabby for the ekodiesel, I think!  Of course the new 2.0L [2E]
engine does even better, with 115 hp @ 5400 rpm and 166 Nm @ 3200 rpm.

Still, it'll be a shame if the US doesn't get this engine.  With 75 hp,
ample torque, low emissions and less clanking noise after cold starts :),
this would be quite a decent engine for an A3 Golf or Jetta.  Oh, well.

[ \tom haapanen    "i don't even know what street canada is on" -- al capone ]
[ tomh@wes.on.ca                   "trust the programmer" -- ansi c standard ]
[ waterloo engineering software      "to thine own self be true" -- polonius ]
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: bdimond@osprey.lerc.nasa.gov (Bob Dimond)
Subject: Question on 914 frame repair
Reply-To: bdimond@osprey.lerc.nasa.gov
Organization: NASA- Lewis Research Center
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 16:21:08 GMT


I haven't seen a VW-PORSCHE posting in a while and thought I`d
get some chatter going.

I have a PORSCHE 914 which has a good engine/body but has two
Problems.

	1.  Floors (can repair myself)

	2.  The framing for the passangers side control arm spindle (below
	    the battery tray) needs repair and anyone familiar with this will
	    know there is not alot of metal to weld to.  What I want to know is 
	    this:

		a.  Anyone else have this problem on a 914?

		b.  Did you have it repaired?

		C.  How much did it cost? What was done?

		d.  Would welding a bar between the bottom of the two rear
		    Struts provide enough structural support? (Yes, I know it
		    would negate the independent rear supension).

Any help I can get will receive my deepest gratitude, and remember:
"Yes, of course its for sale".
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw

I had a '71 camper for about three years and really liked it.  But
here's what you have to do to make it user friendly:

1. Make sure you get a '71 or earlier.  This was the last of the
"upright" engines (as opposed to the pancake engines in which the 
fan is laying flat on top of the engine).  Also, the '71 was the
1971cc, dual port engine (I believe it was the biggest of the upright
engines). The 1972 and later engines were real dogs.

2. Put a degree wheel on the fan pulley and determine EXACTLY how to time
the ignition.  Mine ran great at 5,000+ ft. with ~11 degrees advance.

3. Put a better distributor and coil on it. The stock ones suck and
you'll want to be able to modify the centrifugal advance curve.

This engine CANNOT BREATHE in its stock form!

4. Put a free flow exhaust system on it.  Mine was a bit "throaty" but
definitely not loud. And it makes the beast BREATHE!

5. Consider putting on a dual carb system.  Mine had two Chevy Vega
single barrel carbs on a homemade intake manifold(s) and a solid
shaft accelerator linkage that made that little microbus run like
snot!

I could take my van up I-70 east of Denver and through the Eisenhower
tunnel without shifting any lower than third.  And beat lots of
Japanese cars with ease.


Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: eliot@stalfos.engr.washington.edu (eliot)
Subject: Re: Junky Japanese cars? (Re: Production Delay)
Organization: clearer than blir
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 19:06:50 GMT

In article <1992Aug25.101404.2523@mdcbbs.com> jan@camhpp12.mdcbbs.com (Jan Vandenbrande) writes:

>>Someone else equated Japanese style with
>>quality, but I find that very hard to believe! The Jap cars since '90 seem
>>to fall apart ridiculously fast. 

>However I must comment that when we looked at '92 GTI's (Hecho en Mexico)
>the quality seemed a far cry from our US made 86 GTI. 
>Little things like rattles and squeecks in the BRAND new car, chinsier (sp?)
>feel of the controls, cheap stickers as labels (e.g. "unleaded..."
>or "fasten..") that weren't even put un straight, trim croocked,
>sunroof crank already tearing the headliner, etc.

I think that you two may be talking about different things altogether.
Gayla is talking about durability and you are talking about quality of
assembly, quality of materials.  A very well assembled car can have
short-lived components which die at an earlier age than a shoddily
put together car with longer lived components.  I do think that the
quality of materials used in Golfs/GTIs is on the cheap side and
recent drives in Mexican built cars have not been all that
encouraging.  But in general Japanese cars do tend to be designed
(i.e. intended) for a shorter life than a VW.


eliot
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: macklowj@infonode.ingr.com (Jim J. Macklow)
Subject: Re: 12 Volt Conversion DONE!
Organization: Intergraph Corporation, Huntsville, AL.
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 13:10:35 GMT

In article <1992Sep2.060040.2151@u.washington.edu> dali@milton.u.washington.edu (David A. Lee) writes:
>>
>>I didn't have a headlight *relay*, and the headlight flasher 
>>(lichthupe) was removed from the car many years ago when it was 
>>brought into the country from Germany, as it is probably illegal here. 
>>
>
>Actually my old 1973 Mercury Capri 2600 (made in Koln, Germany) had this
>feature.  You could flash the headlights while driving by just 
>pulling back on the turn signal lever.  Handy in daylight for alerting
>someone you are passing them.  :-)
>
>(Note I mean flash the headlights when they aren't on, not from the 
>low beam to high beam position)
>

Both my '80 Rabbit truck and my wife's 80 Diesel Rabbit have this feature.
Both were made in the US plant.  An '81 Jetta (German-made) also had this
feature.

-Jim
From: jan@lipari.usc.edu (Jan Vandenbrande)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: 84 GTi Transmission in 86 Body.
Date: 31 Aug 1992 17:24:27 -0700
Organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA
NNTP-Posting-Host: lipari.usc.edu

Clutch sizes also changed (I think) from 190 to 210 mm. However,
there may be enough room for it to fit.
The levers are also a bit different, but you should be 
able to bolt the 86 levers right on to the xmission.

Hmmm come to think of it, you may want to call Shas "MR Swap"
at either WolfSport or Mellow Motors (accross the street), and
ask him what it entails. 

Jan

-- 
Jan Vandenbrande

jan@lipari.usc.edu	("School")
jan@camhpp12.mdcbbs.com	("Real work")
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: dali@milton.u.washington.edu (David A. Lee)
Subject: Re: 12 Volt Conversion DONE!
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 06:00:40 GMT

>
>I didn't have a headlight *relay*, and the headlight flasher 
>(lichthupe) was removed from the car many years ago when it was 
>brought into the country from Germany, as it is probably illegal here. 
>

Actually my old 1973 Mercury Capri 2600 (made in Koln, Germany) had this
feature.  You could flash the headlights while driving by just 
pulling back on the turn signal lever.  Handy in daylight for alerting
someone you are passing them.  :-)

(Note I mean flash the headlights when they aren't on, not from the 
low beam to high beam position)

David Lee
1970 Squareback
From: shawn@Aardvark.Rain.COM (Shawn Allen)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Campaign Ry "Recall"
Date: 3 Sep 92 18:48:47 GMT
Organization: Steve's UNIX System, Portland, Oregon

keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov (Larry Keys) writes:


>Hi again Volks,


>BTW, we just had a baby girl, yesterday 9/3/92.

Congradulations, I wish you all the best.

Happy driving. 

>Larry                            __/    ______ /                  
>keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov       /                \                 
>        Fahrvergnugen forever!

Shawn

-- 
shawn@aardvark.rain.com                     |"The number of UNIX
"I'm with the government, I'm here to help!"|machines has grown to 10
"The God I believe in                       |with more expected." 
isn't short of cash, MISTER!!" -Bono        | -The UNIX manual, *1972*
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: tomh@wes.on.ca (Tom Haapanen)
Subject: Re: 1.9L ekodiesel
Organization: Waterloo Engineering Software
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1992 16:30:33 GMT

>> borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski) writes:
>>> The 1.6 liter ecodiesel does something like 57, 58, or 59 HP...

> Tom Haapanen writes: 
>>	1.9L ekodiesel 	    75 hp @ 4200 rpm	150 Nm @ 2400 rpm

rll@frieda.mitre.org (NAME) writes:
> Pardon my ignorance, but what is an ECO diesel engine?  I have seen
> the ECO badge in some of the later models.  Is it Electronically
> controlled?

No, that's "eko" ("eco" in English) as in "ecology".  It does, however, have
a turbocharger, a catalytic converter, an automatic glowplug switch (as soon
as you open the door and get in) and some moderate electronics.

Another interesting diesel is Audi's direct injection diesel; it produces
good performance, but I don't have any solid information on it.  Jan?  Eliot?
Anyone else?

[ \tom haapanen  |  "only auto racing, bullfighting and mountain climbing are ]
[ tomh@wes.on.ca |   sports -- all others are only games" -- ernest hemingway ]
[ waterloo engineering software |     "to thine own self be true" -- polonius ]
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: aeporro@ariel.lerc.nasa.gov (Bob Porro)
Subject: Re: The best water-cooled VW?
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
Distribution: usa
Date:  4 Sep 1992 11:06 EST  

In article <1992Sep3.193520.21525@newsgate.sps.mot.com>, mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw) writes...
> 
>The last was an '84 GTi which I bought in a battered condition for $1300 and
>112K miles on it last year (follwing the demise of the '79 Rabbit).  It has
>been reconditioned and is still going strong as my primary autocross and work
>car.  It has the 1800 cc engine with KE-Jetronic and Lambda sensor with
>catalytic converter. 

I believe the '84 Rabbit GTI came with the K-Jetronic fuel injection system. 
The KE-Jetronic fuel injection system was used in 1985 and later GTI's. 
The confusion may arise by the fact that the K-Jetronic injection system was 
used both with EGR and lambda sensor pollution control systems.

******************************************************************************
| Bob Porro                    || (The opinions expressed here are not       |
| aeporro@venus.lerc.nasa.gov  ||  necessarily those of the management ?\*!) |
|                              ||                                            |
******************************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Re: cracked manifold?
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 17:55:37 GMT

Generally speaking, driving around with any exhaust leak ahead of the passenger compartment
poses the hazard of CO poisoning.  While the weather is still nice, you should keep your windows
open and get lots of ventilation.  The problem with cracked manifolds is where the exhaust is
being directed -- can the nearby components take the added heat?  I would recommend getting
it fixed soon (within the next month) and definitely before winter when you will have the car
closed up and the defroster on.

As for why it cracked, the different manifold on the engine indicates that it has been changed
at least once.  The problem I have seen is that some mechanics just start tightening the
manifold nuts down without any regard for sequence.  Manifolds need to have the inner bolts
tightened first to allow any bend in the casting the grow outward.  If you tighten the outer
bolts first the manifold will be bowed.  You can get it to seal, but you put tremendous stress
on the casting.  Another cause that has been cited is rapid cooling of a hot manifold (i.e.
cold water): but I have not actually seen this happen.

regards,
Mark Shaw  (mark@wdc.sps.mot.com, Tempe, AZ)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw