HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: meltsner@crd.ge.com (Kenneth J. Meltsner)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Woodworker's Book Club??
Date: 12 Jan 93 20:53:05 GMT
Reply-To: meltsner@crd.ge.com
Organization: GE Research and Development Center


As a confirmed book and catalog junkie, I'm intrigued by the
Woodworker's Book Club offer in the Jan/Feb 93 issue of Woodwork.
They offer 1 freebie and 1 pr 2 1/2 price books + $4.32 shipping as an
introductory offer, with no future obligations.  S&H, the traditional
annoyance of book clubs, is free if payment is enclosed with
subsequent orders.

Sounds like a good deal.  Any problems with the club?  Is there a
"sign-up-a-new-member" offer that I can help someone out with?

===============================================================================
Ken Meltsner                        | meltsner@crd.ge.com (518) 387-6391
GE Research and Development Center  | Fax:  (518) 387-6474
P.O. Box 8, Room KWD270		    | Nothing I say should be attributed
Schenectady, NY 12301               | to my employer, and probably vice-versa
"It's probable, just not very likely." -- Fire Maidens From Outer Space.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ameres@ithaca.cat.rpi.edu (Eric Ameres)
Subject: Re: DeWalt Biscuit Joiner = ELU Biscuit Joiner? 
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 19:43:28 GMT

Well, I haven't had any experience with the ELU but from discussions
and from some pictures I'd seen I would think that these are quite
different animals.  I do have the DeWalt and am VERY happy with it.  I
have also heard nothing but good things about ELU in general.  B&D
does distribute both lines.  The DeWalt is definitely US made, I think
the ELU is European (Swiss??).

The DeWalt plunge mechanism is a straight rail system, it is my
understanding that ELU likes to use the arc approach.

I know the DeWalt is a great tool and would imagine the same about the
ELU but I think the salesperson you spoke with may have made too many
assumptions about the B&D/DeWalt/Elu relationship.

But then again I'm not familiar with Elu model numbers and could be
wrong.  I do know that the Elu wouldn't be bright safety yellow and
have DeWalt printed on it :^> .

Eric.
-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Eric Ameres,  Software Engineer                 ameres@cat.rpi.edu
New York State Center for Advanced Technology in Automation & Robotics
Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute - CII 8313, Troy, NY 12180-3590
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-Delivery-Notice:  SMTP MAIL FROM does not correspond to sender.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 12 Jan 1993 13:16:42 EST
From:         Bill Alexander <ALEX@NKI.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Fine woodworking wants in....
              12 Jan 1993 17:40:27 GMT from <chinn@ROSENCRANTZ.OSF.ORG>

>(Steven Bellovin) writes:
>
>>> >Could someone tell me how you can become a subscriber with just
>>> >a phone line?
>>>
 InterCon Systems sells a PC or Mac-based Internet access product. Their
phone is 703-709-9890 (info@intercon.com). Only requirement is a minimal
PC or Mac and any modem.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bds@mbunix.mitre.org (Smith)
Subject: Re: Amish; was: Re: WARNING (response to...)
Organization: The MITRE Corporation, Bedford, MA
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 17:13:19 GMT

In article <16B53110B4.EPLUS17@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu> EPLUS17@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu (Richard Engelbrecht-Wiggans) writes:
>In article <C0p8Kt.M3x@athena.cs.uga.edu>
>mcovingt@aisun3.ai.uga.edu (Michael Covington) writes:
> 
>>
>>My understanding -- and this may be completely wrong -- is that the Amish
>>use air power rather than electrical power in order to avoid a connection
>>to a utility system.  That is, they feel that being connected to an outside
>>utility system would make them vulnerable to outside control.
>>
>>Is that anything like a correct understanding of it?
>>--
>This is not what I was told.  The explanation involved something
>about stationary versus mobil engines.  If it were simply a desire
>to be independent of the power company (I can sympathsize :)), why
>not generate electricity with whatever currently powers the compressor;
>this way, at least you could use over-the-counter tools?

According to the good folks at Lehman's Hardware (world's largest
Amish hardware store, I believe), the Amish have a range of opinions
like most groups.  Some believe that you can't use electricity, but
you can use gas engines, and therefore use the gas engines to drive an
air compressor that drives their machines.  Some believe that only
small gas engines are ok, while others believe that any gas engine is
ok.  Some believe that some electricity is ok (batteries, low amperage
devices), while others believe you can use all the electricity you
want, but only for certain uses and at certain times.

Barry
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Possible cheap EVS substitute
Date: 12 Jan 93 19:03:27 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.
Originator: davek@puma

Please tell me what is wrong with this!

I have a cheapo (borrowed) Craftsman router, 25K rpm, currently
mounted in a router table (see other post).  Fooling around, I
came up with something the other day that *appears* to work, but
it is such a cheap shot that there just has to be a flaw somewhere.
Anyway what I did was to rig up a regular dimmer switch into a
circuit (had a setup for a tablesaw whereby a gangbox had one plug
hooked up to an on/off switch, so I replaced the on/off with the dimmer).
This, when the router is plugged into it, seems to effectively control
the speed of the router.

Considering that an EVS unit, which has the same "plug-in" type setup,
costs at least $30 or so, there must be some reason why this doesn't
really work, at least not in the same way as the EVS.  My question is
what is it?  What have I missed?

Dave
-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
"I look back with some satisfaction on what an idiot I was when I was 25,
 but when I do that, I'm assuming I'm no longer an idiot." - Andy Rooney
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mcovingt@aisun3.ai.uga.edu (Michael Covington)
Subject: Re: Tax Advice
Organization: AI Programs, University of Georgia, Athens
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 00:40:22 GMT

Read the TAX GUIDE FOR COLLEGE TEACHERS, published by Academic Information
Services, Inc. 

Many college professors have writing-and-consulting businesses on the side.

Basically, what you say is sound.  To be considered a business you have to
make a profit some of the time, and have a bona fide intention of making
a profit.  In my case, I do writing, computer consulting, and electronics.
Not all aspects of this are profitable in any given year, but most are.
  
The bottom line is this: Are you deducing woodworking expenses mainly in
order to offset income from woodworking?  If so, fine.  That's what everybody
should do.  If you have income from your hobby, you should deduct the
expenses associated with the income.  That's what deductions are for.

The IRS will be concerned, however, if you seem to be running a "tax dodge"
-- deducting expenses that are _not_ really expenses of producing income.
So if your woodworking business makes a loss, you will come under closer
scrutiny.  Your deductions could still be perfectly OK, but they'll be
looked at more closely.
-- 
:-  Michael A. Covington     internet mcovingt@uga.cc.uga.edu :    *****
:-  Artificial Intelligence Programs       phone 706 542-0358 :  *********
:-  The University of Georgia                fax 706 542-0349 :   *  *  *
:-  Athens, Georgia 30602-7415 U.S.A.     amateur radio N4TMI :  ** *** **
From: kl@cveng120.veheng.det (Keith L)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Central Vacuum for the Workshop?
Date: 7 Jan 93 16:52:00 GMT
Reply-To: kl@cveng120.veheng.det
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.

Having used shop-vacs in my workshop, I would not recommend a standard vacuum if you wan't to collect all the dust and shavings from your TS and Planer through a 4" pipe system.  The 101 cfm spec is especially critical to dust collection.  Although your whole house vacuum has high suction power, it can't move enough air to collect fine dust from a TS through wide pipes.  The 5 gallon capacity is fine for household cleaning but it will fill up fast when collecting shavings from a planer. The vacuum would be



 fine for general cleanup but if you want to collect while tools are running, save your money for a dust collector.  If you want to collect through a duct system, I would recommend purchasing a DC with a cfm rating of more than 1000.  My DC has a cfm rating of 610 and it is not adequate when two openings of my dust system are open at once.  I have to fiddle with the opening and closing of blast gates enough that I wish I would have purchased a higher capacity DC.  As Tool Time Tim says "There is no substit



ute for POWER, ARGH, ARGH!!" 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: hubcap@hubcap.clemson.edu (System Janitor)
Subject: Re: "Rainforest Destruction Has Many Victims"
Organization: Clemson University
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 15:08:51 GMT

gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz) writes:

>   So you are saying that they just burn the hardwood?

That is right. In many (most if 95/5 is a true statistic) cases they just 
burn it.

If they had the industry and incentive to turn it into lumber, they'd be
better off financially and there'd be much more time to figure out how
to avoid total deforestation. It would take lots longer to thrash the 
whole forest if each tree was turned into a board instead of an ash.

-Mike
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: The Fein Sander - usage report
Date: 12 Jan 93 17:33:24 GMT
Organization: LLNL

I said last week I'd post a usage report on my new Fein sander.  People
have been asking whether the Fein is worth the extra premium over the
Ryobi (about $200).  I can't answer that question, not having a Ryobi to
try in parallel, but I can report on the Fein.

The Fein, for those who haven't seen an ad, is a small right-angle sander
(like a disk sander) that has a triangular head instead of a disk.  The
triangular head oscillates about 2 degrees instead of rotating like a disk.
The triangular head is not a straight-sided triangle, but instead looks like
a projection of an equilateral spherical triangle (i.e. has convex sides).

In spite of the oscillation, the sander has about the same vibration level
as a PC random orbit disk sander.  This is because the triangular head is
small and light, the body is relatively more massive (maybe three pounds),
and the oscillation is both small in amplitude (2 degrees) and high in
frequency (20,000 per minute).  Even though the amplitude is small, the
paper cuts very well.  I tried it on an old finished oak child's chair
in 90 degree corners and it took only a few seconds to remove the old finish.
The sander is designed for corners, but it also does well on open surfaces,
showing its wood removal powers.

What's my overall rating?  This is a professional tool built to last.
Vibration level is low and comfortable for long term use.  Wood removal is
impressive.  It really works in corners.  I'm glad I bought it.
From: kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM (John Kopf,D,6305)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Simple problem, solution needed
Date: 11 Jan 93 21:13:22 GMT
Reply-To: kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems

Check out the local hobby store...XACTO makes a set of small backsaws for modelmaking
and has an aluminum miterbox as well.  This is good for work up to say 1/2" x 1 1/2".

JK
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: corwin@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (carl.w.smedberg)
Subject: Re: Table saw surface protection
Summary: why not wax it
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 19:12:23 GMT

In article <3123@tymix.Tymnet.COM>, kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM (John Kopf,D,6305) writes:
> Talc used to be the contents of baby powder...now, many of these contain a lot of
> starch instead.  Talc will be somewhat slippery, but  starch will get sticky when
> it rains.  Check the ingredients if you intend to use baby powder.
> 
> JK

Why bother with baby powder. Pullout your can of paste wax and put 
a good coat on the table top, rip fence and mitre gauge. The wax will
protect the surface from dust, rust and wood sap. If the saw is
particularly dirty clean it with mineral spirits first. Don't use
wax for your car, use Trewax in the yellow can available in the
cleaning isle of your favorite grocer. 

Carl Smedberg
att!ihlpm!corwin
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: STEVE.BUSSELL@OFFICE.WANG.COM ("Steve Bussell")
Subject: RE: RE: Norm's New Season
Organization: Mail to News Gateway at Wang Labs
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 20:55:19 GMT

Boy! I thought I was just posting a some information that some of you on the
net might be interested in.  Now it looks like it going to cost me some money.
 I'll have to go home tonight and convince the "finance committee" (my wife)
that I can't get by for another day without a squiblet flurbigator for my
shop.

Steve Bussell
From: millios@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (william.l.millios)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Resawing with Delta 16 inch bandsaw
Date: 5 Jan 93 19:30:33 GMT
Organization: AT&T

I seem to remember reading somewhere that somebody recommended
a 1/4 inch bimetal blade for all bandsawing activities; this person
visited some shop (how's this for precision of memory) and saw
the bimetal blade being used for everything from curves to 
resawing, and was sold on the idea.  

The bimetal construction apparently lends some kind of attribute
not normally present in standard blades.

Note that I do not have a bandsaw nor a bimetal blade, just
a memory like a packrat.

Bill
From: kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM (John Kopf,D,6305)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Getting started woodcarving
Date: 12 Jan 93 17:31:21 GMT
Reply-To: kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems

Most books tend to give a cursory description of tools and a handful of projects.

Two I've found useful are:

Wood Carving	(printed 1976)
	William Wheeler & Charles H. Hayward
		by: Drake Publishers, Inc., 801 Second Ave, New York, NY 10017
    A good introduction; shows what you can do with a minimum of tools.

Manual of Traditional Woodcarving
	Paul N Hasluck, Ed.
		by: Dover Publications, Inc., 180 Varick St, New York, N.Y. 10014
    Reprint of a Victorian classic; shows LOTS of examples & patterns for all styles.

JK
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: tgillesp@sloth.mlb.semi.harris.com (Tom Gillespie)
Subject: Biscuit adaptor for angle grinders ?
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 21:56:43 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL
Keywords:  biscuit grinder 

As I was looking through catalogs for a small angle grinder to do some
metalworking (let's here it for the new rec.crafts.metalworking group; 
yeah! yeah!) I noticed sears had a biscuit jointer attachment for their
4 1/2" angle grinder.  It's only $49.99 and different than the 
controversial router/biscuit attachment (see previous postings.)

This grinder accessary really makes it look like a biscuit jointer -
and if you look at their angle grinder and biscuit jointer side-by-side, 
the motor housings look identical.  The attachment simply bolts on to the 
sides of the grinder and has a swing-away fence allowing "T" joints.

Has anyone used this angle grinder attachment ?  Like it ?

Thanks,

Tom Gillespie
tgillesp@mlb.semi.harris.com
From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 18:19:38 GMT
Subject: Re: "Rainforest Destruction Has Many Victims"
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

lane@duphy4.physics.drexel.edu writes:
>In article <1992Dec23.073527.2561@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com>, billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson) writes:
>> tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin) writes:
>> : >: >countries.  Another fact - the rate of deforestation in Brazil has
>> : >: >been at the rate of 0.5%/year.

   This is used as an argument that the deforestation is "sustainable"?

   Even if it is 0.5% per year, there is absolutly nothing sustainable about
   deforestation.   Mr. Nelson is posting from Oregon.  I grew up there. 
   Much of the Douglas Fir that is used in the housing industry comes from
   Oregon.  

   The do not "deforest" there, they cut down forests in strips and re-plant.
   They do not turn the land the trees were cut from into pasture for cattle.

   So how do you figure that 0.5% per year is "sustainable"?

>Mostly because 0.5% of the forested area of Brazil is still a *LOT* of
>square miles, and makes a big impression when shown on TV.
>
>Which makes me suspect that the fraction of "deforested" wood that
>actually makes it onto the world market is very small...otherwise we'd
>see rosewood used for hurricane repairs in south florida :-)

   Your reasoning here escapes me.   You said that 0.5 percent of the 
   forested area of Brazil is still a *LOT*, so this means you think
   that a lot of area is deforested, and the obvious conclusion is that
   a *LOT* of wood can result from this.   Then you turn around and say
   that the percentage of deforested wood that makes it onto the world
   market must be small.   
  
   It would seem to me that the conclusion from your statement that 0.5%
   is a *LOT* of area and a *LOT* of wood should lead us to conclude that
   a *LOT* of the wood on the market is deforested wood.  

   There are a lot of other questions I would ask about this situation.

   For instance, the sampling taken from the shuttle covers what period 
   of time?   Was the sampling done over the course of 10 years?  5 years?
   5 minutes?   Remember that Brazil has been under extreme pressure from
   the envrionmental movemnet and from other countries as well as the
   rubber tapers and indigenous people to curtail the slash and burn
   policies.

   Perhaps the shuttle is detecting deforestation at a record low rate
   because of these factors?

   Also, did the shuttle look at Africa?  Sumatra?  Borneo?  
   Southeast Asia?    If  so, why do we not have similar figures for these 
   areas?

   I just can't believe that the ground and air surveys have been so 
   far off, and only the SHUTTLE could detect the actual amount of 
   deforestation, nor do I believe that scientists have purposely been
   exagerating the amount of deforestation over the last decade.

   There is a huge descrepancy here, and I do not want to assume anything.

   I would like to know the facts.
From: rhaar@albert.cs.gmr.com (Bob Haar)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Biscuit Adapter for Sear's Routers
Date: 4 Jan 93 16:06:18 GMT
Reply-To: rhaar@albert.cs.gmr.com
Organization: G.M. Research Laboratories

In article 5769@kodak.kodak.com, marulli@kodak.kodak.com (Dave x71244/RDCS/2-205-KO) writes:
|>Has anyone tried the adapter that Sear's sells for their routers that turns 
|>it into a biscuit joiner? It's about $40, so I don't have much faith in it.

I have one of these and would say that it is worth the $40, but is
not a substitute for a dedicate biscuit joiner machine. Also, the
current issue of Fine Woodworking has an article on plate joiner
accessories and includes a discussion of this unit.

I bought it after I got a Porter Cable router to replace my old
Craftsman and then was looking for a way to use the old machine.

Installation is straight forward. The kit consists of a slot cutter
bit and a replacement for the base plate that includes the spring loaded
fence for the slot cutter. Just remove the screws holding the old base
plate and screw on the new one. Getting the height adjustment set
takes a little fiddling, but is not bad.

Although it is possible to mount this unit, it is designed to be
used in a hand-held fashion, holding the router upright and pushing
it against the edge of the board where you want to cut the biscuit slot.
This results in covering up a big part of the board's surface. So you
have to draw the locating marks about 3" long. For narrow boards, it
is hard to tell exactly where you are.

The biggest limitation that I encountered is that it can only be used
on or near the edge of a board. This make it useless for doing butt
joints in the middle of a panel. But it wroks fine for edge joining
nominal 1" boards.

If you can live with that limitation, this kit provides a good
way to get started with biscuit joining. But I am at the point
of trying to justify buying one of the dedicated machines.

---
  	Robert Haar               InterNet : rhaar@gmr.com 
	Computer Science Dept., G.M. Research Laboratories
DISCLAIMER: Unless indicated otherwise, everything in this note is
personal opinion, not an official statement of General Motors Corp.
From: kl@cveng120.veheng.det (Keith L)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: April 1987 issue of WOOD Magazine
Date: 8 Jan 93 15:08:31 GMT
Reply-To: kl@cveng120.veheng.det
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.


Would any of you WOOD magazine readers/subscribers on the net happen to have a copy of the April 1987 issue featuring the shop-built lathe?  I am interested in the source for the arbor, bearings and pulleys that were used in the headstock of this lathe.  WOOD usually lists the supply sources they use at the end of the article and if someone would post this information, I would much appreciate it.  I would like to build a headstock similar to this for an old lathe (circa 1900) that I purchased at an auction


  
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: micki@netcom.com (Michelle Stone)
Subject: Stile and rail bits for routers
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 08:06:36 GMT

I have seen stile and rail bits advertised for routers
in FW.  Do these things do the job for cabinet
work?  I realize that the raised panel bit won't 
work well unless I could slow my router down.  I suppose
that I will do the panels on the table saw.  I sure
would like to do something nice to the stiles and rails
and these bit sets might be the ticket.  It would
be nice to have a shaper....but not till I can find a 
real job!

Michelle

-- 
micki@netcom.com

By the way.  I find myself to be a recent addition to the 
unemployment statistic.  I am a software manager living
in silicon valley.  If you know of an opportunity, please
let me know!


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mckenney@cims.nyu.edu (Alan M. McKenney)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,misc.consumers.house
Subject: sealer (?) for wooden double-hung windows
Date: 11 Jan 93 15:57:58 GMT
Followup-To: rec.woodworking
Distribution: usa
Organization: Courant Institute, New York University
Originator: mckenney@gauss.cims.nyu.edu


    We have a ~60 year old house with the original wooden
double-hung windows.  I recently had the sashes in one
room stripped (at a dip-and-strip place) and refinished.
I now find that the refinished sashes *love* to absorb
water and swell, whereas those not refinished don't,
or at least not as much.

    The water in question probably comes from condensation,
as the windows aren't double-pane.  Also, not all the wood
is finished -- the edges (=sliding surfaces) are bare wood,
both on the old and the refinished sashes, and slots were
cut for the weatherstripping (T-crosssection) to fit into.
However, both the refinished and the not-refinished
windows have this.  Only the refinished ones collect lots
of water, absorb it, and swell.

    So, my question: is there some sealer that was used
when the windows were made, or is there one that I should
use to keep the sashes from absorbing water?  Varnish or
paint is out of the question, as I'm convinced -- and have
been warned -- that it would make the windows impossible to
open or shut.  Ideally, it should also reduce the
wood-to-metal and wood-to-painted/varnished-wood friction.


    (BTW, I don't want to explain why I didn't replace the
sashes.  Suffice it to say that this is what I did.)

    Please reply by E-mail; I will post a summary if enough
people express interest (and I get any useful advice.)

-- 
Alan McKenney        E-mail:  mckenney@cims.nyu.edu         (INTERNET)
Courant Institute,NYU,USA     ...!cmcl2!cims.nyu.edu!mckenney   (UUCP)