HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: erik@peewee.nwc.navy.mil (Erik van Bronkhorst       Code 3814                               Phone 939-1421)
Subject: Re: Recommendations for one-man brake bleeding tools?
Keywords: hydraulic brake fluid bleeding
Organization: NAVAIRWARCENWPNDIV, China Lake
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 16:32:19 GMT

In article <1992Nov11.163853.10343@infonode.ingr.com> lester@naomi.b23b.ingr.com writes:
>In article <5889@airs.com>, andrew@airs.com (Andrew Evans) writes:
>|> Hi net.motorheads,
>|> 
>|> I need a tool that will allow me to bleed my brakes without an
>|> assistant to pump the brake pedal.  In my car's Haynes manual they
>|> mention a tool which is a simple non-return valve that you attach to
>|> the bleeder nipple.  This allows you to pump the brake pedal until no
>|> bubbles come out.  I've also seen pictures of an elaborate
>|> hand-operated pump with a fluid cannister attached.  This sucks fluid
>|> out the bleeder nipple.  I'd prefer something like the first, since
>|> it's simple and gets the job done.  Anybody that can recommend a
>|> particular tool, and maybe even where to get it in the Boston area?
>|> 
>|> Thanks,
>|> 
>|> -- 
>|> Andrew Evans (andrew@airs.com) - Infinity Development Systems - Waltham, MA
>
>I've had good luck using plain ole gravity.  Remove the filler cap, and
>open the nipples.  I do one at a time.  This can take a while.  If you

I have seen an item in JCW (J.C. Whitney) designed for this purpose.
It is a tank with a pump that pumps air out of the tank.  This way 
you can apply a continuous vacuum to the bleeder fitting.  Just loosen,
retreat to the master cylinder, and pour. 

-- 
Erik van Bronkhorst KC6UUT DoD#4342585443 AMA#[classified]
"Truth is false and logic lost, now the fourth dimension is crossed..."
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bigjoe@netcom.com (gordon perry)
Subject: Firebird automatic antenna removal
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 04:53:35 GMT


	 I would appreciate any info on how to remove an automatic radio antenna
	 from my 1980 Firebird. It is corroded and will not really function as an
	 antenna and will not operate up and down either. There dopes not appear
	 to be any openings to get at the thing. Any ideas will be appreciated..

	 -----------------------Gordon Perry------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: etxcjog@eos.ericsson.se (Christer Jogenborn)
Subject: Re: flywheel
Organization: Ericsson
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 14:37:17 GMT

dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)  writes:


>-> Is it very hard to start moving from a stop w/ a 7 pound flywheel?
>-> and does it increase accel dramatically, or is it not even worth it?

And what about stress of crank or moving parts WITH a lighter flywheel !
Does anyone know how this affects the milage in the engine ?
Competitive engines does not care, as they recieves new parts regulary
but engine builders claim that this does affect material as vibrations
is allowed to spread into other parts in the "block"
I recall "dampers" are used but do they take care of all vibes?

/Forza!
> If you cut the flywheel down to 7 pounds, idle will become *very*
>rough.  It will be easy to stall the engine when taking off from a start
>unless you slip the clutch more than you're probably doing now.
>Throttle response in neutral will be extremely quick.  Throttle response
>when you're on the road probably won't change enough to detect without
>instrumentation.

> Light flywheels are advantageous in drag cars (since they're run across
>the power curve three or four times in an average run) and in circle
>track cars that don't shift much - when you're pulling through a corner
>in high, the entire driveline acts as a flywheel anyway.
>                                                                                             
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: lester@naomi.b23b.ingr.com (Les Bartel)
Subject: Re: Recommendations for one-man brake bleeding tools?
Keywords: hydraulic brake fluid bleeding
Reply-To: lester@naomi.b23b.ingr.com
Organization: Intergraph Corporation
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 16:38:53 GMT

In article <5889@airs.com>, andrew@airs.com (Andrew Evans) writes:
|> Hi net.motorheads,
|> 
|> I need a tool that will allow me to bleed my brakes without an
|> assistant to pump the brake pedal.  In my car's Haynes manual they
|> mention a tool which is a simple non-return valve that you attach to
|> the bleeder nipple.  This allows you to pump the brake pedal until no
|> bubbles come out.  I've also seen pictures of an elaborate
|> hand-operated pump with a fluid cannister attached.  This sucks fluid
|> out the bleeder nipple.  I'd prefer something like the first, since
|> it's simple and gets the job done.  Anybody that can recommend a
|> particular tool, and maybe even where to get it in the Boston area?
|> 
|> Thanks,
|> 
|> -- 
|> Andrew Evans (andrew@airs.com) - Infinity Development Systems - Waltham, MA

I've had good luck using plain ole gravity.  Remove the filler cap, and
open the nipples.  I do one at a time.  This can take a while.  If you
have the brakes apart, squeeze the calipers/pistons all the way in to
force most of the fluid out of the cylinder.  Make sure that the resevoir
is never allowed to empty.  After all the brakes are bled, pump the
brake pedal to refill the cylinders after installing the pads/shoes and
drums/rotors (again make sure that the resevoir doesn't empty).

 - les

-- 
Les Bartel			lester@naomi.b23b.ingr.com
Intergraph Corporation		Huntsville, AL
Electronics Division		(205) 730-8537

To the cat, the experimenter is problematic.
From: rmarks@MDC.Unisys.COM (Richard Marks)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Bleed Brakes After Changing Pads?
Date: 10 Nov 92 20:28:45 GMT
Organization: Unisys Malvern Development Center.

In article <1992Nov9.122018.1@vax.sonoma.edu> butler@vax.sonoma.edu writes:
>I've always got away with not having to bleed the brake system after
>changing brake pads.  Is this a bad idea?  Anyone have any comments
>or info on this matter?

I usually bleed them when I change the pads.  I am working on the
brakes and have all my tools and am in "brake mode" so it seems
like a good idea to give it a shot.  I have no idea if it really
does any good; but it might be better and it ceratinly does not hurt.

Regards,
Richard Marks
rmarks@MDC.unisys.COM
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:15360 rec.autos:26615
From: lupienj@hpwadac.hp.com (John Lupien )
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
Subject: Re: Craftsman Timing Light (Inductive vs Advance)
Date: 12 Nov 92 18:08:33 GMT
Reply-To: lupienj@wal.hp.com (John Lupien )

In article <1dp39kINNbcb@uwm.edu> rom@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Rommy) writes:
> The choices are a chrome Advance light (around $65) & the black plastic 
> Inductive light ($35).  I will primarily be using the light on a 1968
> Camaro & the Titanic( a 1976 Ford LTD wagon with HEI).  

I went for the advance one myself. It's pretty nice not to have to estimate
the advance on cars that don't have a degree index somewhere (most, it would 
seem, do not). However, I wish that the damned thing would also show degrees
retard, as the spec for the VW Beetle AE and AF series engines is for 5 degrees
of retard when the vacuum advance is connected. In this case, the only choice 
is to disconnect the vacuum advance (plugging the tube) while setting the
idle advance, as this reverts it to about 6 degrees advance. Later I put on
a centrifugal-only 009 distributor, and no longer have to worry about that.

>Specifically what would I be getting by spending almost double for between the
>2 units & is the price worth it in your opinion.

Yeah, I like having the advance knob. You can just twirl the knob until the
timing marks line up, then look at the dial to read off the current advance.
Or you can set the desired advance and diddle the distributor until the
timing marks line up. 

>Also I will be choosing between one of 3 engine analyzers they have.  All of
>them have dwell, tach, & RPM capabilities.  Their prices are $35, $45, & $70 for
>the digital unit.  Any opinion on the guage type vs fully digital analyzers.

You said that you have a $100 certificate - the $65 timing light and the
$35 analyzer adds up... however, I haven't tried the $45 analyzer. The $35
one works just fine for the applications I have (nothing that revs over 8500rpm
in normal use).

---
John R. Lupien
lupienj@wal.hp.com
From: ihusain@pyramid.COM (Intisar Husain)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Need help with the Oil Pump
Date: 6 Nov 92 03:41:47 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Pyramid Technology Corporation, Mountain View, California


Over the weekend I replaced the timing chain on my 84 Maxima
(L-24 engine), without taking out the cylinder head, and 
Oil Pan.  As far as I understand every thing went fine, and
the car started at the first self, but now the Oil Pump doesn't work.

I have done the following to cure the problem, but without any luck.

1-	Changed the Oil Pump.
2-	Checked the Oil Pressure gauge.
3-	Changed the Oil.
4-	Filled the Oil Pump with oil and installed it back.

This car has external oil pump, connected to the Timimg Chain cover.
The motor is somewhat similar to early 80's Z cars. 

I just want to get net wise ideas, before I go ahead and open
the timing chain cover, and spend another 8 hours.

By the way before I found out that Oil Pump is not working, there was
already 8 minute of engine idle running was done on the car. Now I am
little worried, what else could have gone wrong. By the way temperature
of the car was cold durring the idling, But some weird noises,
proabily because of dry timing chain. I think I am too optemistic.

I will appreciate any help in this matter. 

Thanks in advance

Intisar.

ihusain@pyramid.com
From: Michel_Denber.WBST147@xerox.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: caliper seizure
Date: 11 Nov 1992 09:23:37 -0600
Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu

	"WD40, penetrating oil and even industrial strength iodine wouldn't
free it enough."

I don't even bother with that stuff (iodine??).  It's no big deal to just pull
the two bolts that hold the caliper on and relubricate them (on GM cars
anyway).  Are you sure the entire caliper really needed replacing?  At worst, I
would think new bolts should do the trick.  I also put anti-seize on the bolt
threads and on the caliper housing bracket (although there's technically
supposed to be 0.005" - 0.012" clearance there).  I also replace the mounting
bolt O-rings (because the shop manual says to - they didn't appear to have
anything wrong with them).

Another thing that helps prevent seizures is to make sure those little rubber
boots that go over the ends of the caliper bolts haven't fallen off.  They
really help keep moisture out of the calipers.  They were missing on one side
of my wife's car and the bolts were hell to remove.  The other side had them
and the bolts came right off.

			- Michel

denber.wbst147@xerox.com

Fire Sale on Quayle Quotes; send 'em while there's still time: "Give a man a
fish and he'll fish today.  Teach a man to fish and he'll fish for the rest of
his life.  Those are the principles we stand for." -- D. Quayle, Sept. 1992
From: leonglaw@hpsgm2.sgp.hp.com (Lawrence LEONG)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Rust spots all over
Date: 4 Nov 92 12:06:08 GMT
Organization: HP Singapore

In rec.autos.tech, heff@apollo.hp.com (Jeff Oesterle) writes:


|Anybody have good advice on some rust remover/stopper that works?
|I've got rust spots scattered about in several parts on the body 
|of the car.  Should I not worry about it, cuz the frame'll rust out 
|and collapse before the body becomes a problem, or should I sand the
|bejeezus out of the spots, and prime and paint them?
|
|
|
|Jeff Oesterle
|
|================
|"No, I don't know that atheists should be considered as citizens, 
|nor should they be considered patriots.  This is one nation under God."
|                                         - George Bush
|<choke> <cough> Say WHAT?!?!?!?
|================
|
|(Disclaim, disclaim, disclaim.)

I've used rust removers from Duro, Coroless and Selleys.  Duro Extend works 
but the long curing time means laying the car up for several days (worse when
it rains).  Coroless works, cures in 3-6 hours (weather dependent), the
undercoat type is better if no overpainting is required as metal does not have
to be fully dry.  Rust spots treated thus 9months ago have not re-started.
The Selleys product did not work.  YMMV.

lawrence
From: andrew@airs.com (Andrew Evans)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Recommendations for one-man brake bleeding tools?
Keywords: hydraulic brake fluid bleeding
Date: 10 Nov 92 22:46:39 GMT

Hi net.motorheads,

I need a tool that will allow me to bleed my brakes without an
assistant to pump the brake pedal.  In my car's Haynes manual they
mention a tool which is a simple non-return valve that you attach to
the bleeder nipple.  This allows you to pump the brake pedal until no
bubbles come out.  I've also seen pictures of an elaborate
hand-operated pump with a fluid cannister attached.  This sucks fluid
out the bleeder nipple.  I'd prefer something like the first, since
it's simple and gets the job done.  Anybody that can recommend a
particular tool, and maybe even where to get it in the Boston area?

Thanks,

-- 
Andrew Evans (andrew@airs.com) - Infinity Development Systems - Waltham, MA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: WATER/GAS MIX
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 6 Nov 92 10:01:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet

-> separate. In 30 minutes I had half a jar of water and half a jar of
-> pink soap/gas mix. Now if it settles that fast  I don't want it in my

 The most effective solution might be to premix the water and detergent,
then mix them with gasoline at the injector using a staged injector or
prechamber scheme.

 This also brings to mind the idea that a gasoline/water emulsion might
not be real great in cold climates.  Shooting it into the engine via
throttle body injection, you'd probably have little ice crystals that
wouldn't burn real great.  You'd need to preheat the fuel and water at
least.
                                          
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: gdw@wylie.b17d.ingr.com (Gary Wylie)
Subject: Re: Firewall problems, '57 Chevy
Reply-To: gdw@wylie.b17d.ingr.com
Organization: Intergraph Corp.- Imaging Systems Development
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 01:43:56 GMT

In article <1992Nov10.184001.25495@elroy.jpl.nasa.gov>, bobv@spike.Jpl.Nasa.Gov (Bob von Buelow) writes:
|> Well, maybe this is the place to ask.  I checked the other auto related
|> newsgroups and none of them seemed appropriate, or got no replies.
|> '57 Chevy 210.  Had it about 2 years after taking it off the hands of my
|> teen aged son who decided he really needed a 4x4, and after he broke the
|> original 283.  He replace the 283 with a 350 from a 75 Impala and added
|> an electronic ignition.
|> Problem: the ignition is HUGE and rubs against the firewall.  Basically it
|> has run fine for the time I've had it, but the last mechanic that did a 
|> tune up told me it was arcing thru to the firewall on 1 of the sparkplug
|> wires.  Anybody tell me what the standard solutions to this are.  350
|> swaps into '57 must be very common.
|> 
|> Thanks,
|> Bob von Buelow   

Looks like you've two choices: 1) Modify the firewall (not recommended)
or 2) replace the current distributor with a standard distributor.  Any
Chevy v8 distributor will work; recommend you get one from 1957-1970.  You
can add a CD ignition if you like to get the spark up, although it shouldn't
be necessary.  Is the distributor you're using a Chevy HEI by any chance?
These won't fit in a '57 Chevy without modifying the firewall.

Gary

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bigjoe@netcom.com (gordon perry)
Subject: Re: Oil out Exhaust?
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1992 16:53:37 GMT

mikec@hpgrla.gr.hp.com (Mike Christensen) writes:

>Has anybody dealt with the problem of oil coming out the exhaust.  It
>doesn't happen all the time, usually only at start up, and I'm not sure that
>what is coming out is oil.  I just can't imagine what else it could be.  It
>doesn't drip oil at the exhaust, it just leaves a mark on the cement, there
>is no wetness to it.  Oil comsumption hasn't increased either.  The car is
>a 1987 Dodge Caravan with the Mitsubishi 2.6L, 4 cyl. engine.  Any help will
>be greatly appreciated.

>					Mike Christensen
I have a similar problem with my 1980 305 V8 Firebird. I changed the PVC
valve which sometimes helps and got a slight improvement but still I get
the burst of oil smoke at start up when the car has beeen sitting over a
couple of hours.  Any ideas would be appreciated.
From: sheriffp@Software.Mitel.COM (Peter Sheriff)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: caliper seizure
Date: 10 Nov 92 13:58:46 GMT
Organization: Mitel. Kanata (Ontario). Canada.


     I had a seized caliper on one of my older cars some time back. This
was due to lack of use because I only used the car intermittently in the
spring, summer and early fall (I ride my bike to work as much as I can).
     The caliper was seized so much that WD40, penetrating oil and even
industrial strength iodine wouldn't free it enough. I had to replace the 
caliper. It only cost $23 Cdn so I wasn't too upset (GM product).

                                  Pete
From: mike@gilligan.East.Sun.COM (Mike Roncadori)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Nissan 4x4 does Ned Beatty!
Date: 6 Nov 1992 11:47:45 -0500
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc., Vienna, VA.
NNTP-Posting-Host: gilligan.east.sun.com
Keywords: Squeal Piggie!

Hi...

I have a 1990 Nissan 4x4 PU that is doing some really strange
stuff, and I was wondering if anyone out there in netland has
had similar experiences.

This is all very heartbreaking to me, because I maintain my
vehicles rigorously, and one thing I can't stand is squeaks,
rattles, etc..

What happens is after being driven between 10 and 15 miles, a
high-pitched squeal comes from the right front end. It is some-
times steady, other times it chirps in cadence with wheel rot-
ation. It sounds alot like a bad bearing, but it's been happen-
ing for over 8K miles now. It almost always begins when either
coming to a stop, or accelerating away from a stop. Of course,
it is intermittent, but does not seem to be tied to weather or
temperature.

I've had it in the shop 6 times now, and they can't duplicate
the noise (I taped it for them, so they could at least see that
I wasn't hearing voices from beyond). They have done a front-
end alignment (because it was severely out of alignment, due to
a rip-off alignment I had done while having new tires installed
about 3 mos. ago), and replaced both front hub assemblies (I'm
not sure what all Nissan includes in the term front hub assy.).

It isn't just a light squeak... It is EMBARRASING! I'm getting
to the point where I'm ready to drive this truck off a bridge,
if I don't get some relief soon. I can't wear my Halloween mask
any more, so please... Help the guy with the Ned Beatty truck.

If you have a Nissan V6 hardbody (post 1986-1/2), or know of
anyone who does, please show them this post, or ask them if
they know of such a problem. Any tidbits that may come my way
will be greatly appreciated.

Please reply via email, because I don't normally read r.a.t

Thanks -- Mike

Mike Roncadori		mike@east.sun.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: MAF sensors
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 11 Nov 92 18:13:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> Any information about MAF sensor specs or part cost and availability
-> would be appreciated.

 The only specific MAF maker in my database is over 10 years old, but
here it is:

Walbro                          OEM mass air sensors            01/82
100 W. Big Beaver Road
Troy MI 38084-5243


 Bosch makes them, but I don't have an address.  Same for Delco-Remy,
but Delco has a bad case of "loose lips sink ships."
From: johnl@SDFSERV.hac.com (John Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: What is current wisdom on rotating tires (tyres)?
Date: 5 Nov 92 02:57:39 GMT
Article-I.D.: hacgate.23895
Organization: Hughes Aircraft Company, El Segundo, CA

In article <Bx7n5p.1Go@mentor.cc.purdue.edu> mshar@mentor.cc.purdue.edu (Mike Mshar) writes:
[...]
<Here is how it was explained to me. Most of this is coming right out of a
<book that is called "Chilton`s Easy Car Care", so I assume it to be
<factual. 
<
<If your car does not have radial tires, you should use the second method.
<In other words, rotate the tires diagonally.
<
<If your car does have radials, only rotate front to back. I will just quote
<the book for this one...
<
<"There are certain exceptions to tire rotation, however. Studded snow tires
<should not be rotated, and radials should be kept on the same side of the
<car (maintain the same direction of rotation). The belts on radial tires
<get set in a pattern. If the direction of rotation is reversed, it can
<cause rough ride and vibration."
<
<So there it is...
[...]

That's what I was taught as well.  However, my one year-old Saturn SC
has the stock Firestone Firehawk radials, and the owner's manual
clearly indicates a diagonal tire rotation.  I thought moving a radial
to the other side of the car could cause the tire to fail by separating
the steel from the rubber.  But hey, I'm just a software guy; what do I
know?

Perhaps radial tire technology has improved in the last few years...

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The crew faces deadly GURUs!  Next time on AmigaDOS: The Next Generation.
	+--------+			John Lee
	| HUGHES |
	+--------+			Internet: jhlee@hac2arpa.hac.com	
The above opinions are those of the user and not of those of this machine.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: vaheg@woods.ulowell.edu
Subject: Help disired with buick--Pinging(Egr)!!
Organization: University of Lowell
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 05:50:11 GMT

I know I have asked this question before, but I still have not found the
problem.  
	I have a 1981 Buick Regal with the 231ci 3.8 liter engine.  At highway
speeds, I have a slight pinging emerging from the engine.  I hate the noise
because I know it is slowly ruining my engine.  I have adjusted the timing
right on the mark.

	I seem to think it is the egr valve.  Maybee it is not opening up all
the way(Or not enough)

	How exact does an egr valve work?  Why when the vaccume line is
disconnected from it-It pings like a mother?  The noise that I hear is
not a question of timeing(I dont think) because the ping is the exact sound
I hear when I disconnect the egr and step on the gas.

	Is there a way to bypass the egr valve without the car pinging?

Any replys would be greatly appreciated because I am a poor college student
and would rather not shell out 60 bucks for a new valve.(It seems to be
opperating o.k)

Also--can you reply directly to my account?  Thanks a lot
-gerry
From: tavernin@rm1.interlan.com (Victor Tavernini)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: 240Z-280Z Problems
Date: 11 Nov 92 14:52:10 GMT
Organization: Racal-Milgo, Sunrise, Florida

I'm thinking of buying a 240Z, 260Z, or 280Z and was wondering if any
specific model/year had any serious problems ... besides rust :-)

Thanks,

Victor Tavernini
Racal-Datacom, Inc.

tavernin@rd1.interlan.com