HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: bfbrown@athena.mit.edu (Brian F. Brown)
Subject: pricing...
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 18:51:06 GMT

Okay, to kind of attempt to justify my last post in my mind, I would like to
ask another favor of y'all...
I just want to know about how much I SHOULD pay for the following stuff:

3.3 lbs. malt extract (range)
1 lb. some kind of malt, say chocolate malt, for comparison...
hydrometer
12" or so thermometer
dry yeast packages (range)
1 oz. hops (range)
5.5 gallon glass carboy
1 lb. bottle caps.


I would appreciate any answers those who have looked for and found good deals
could email me (bfbrown@athena.mit.edu) cuz I don't want to pay more than I have
to.  Thanks a lot,

BB
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: eebonar@sn01.sncc.lsu.edu (Dave Bonar)
Subject: Re: Abita! Abita!
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.3-4   
Reply-To: eebonar@sn01.sncc.lsu.edu
Organization: News and Views from LSU
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 21:48:16 GMT
Nntp-Posting-Host-[nntpd-7432]: sn01.sncc.lsu.edu

In article <1992Aug19.160801.1@scivax.stsci.edu>, houck@scivax.stsci.edu writes...
> 
>I was recently in New Orleans and I had a beer there called ABITA. It is
>not made in New Orleans but just across Lake Ponchatrain at a local spring.
>Abita makes 3 or 4 types of beer (amber, gold, turbo dog etc).

	I've had plenty of Abita beer.  Their Turbo Dog (dark) and Mardi
Gras Bock are the best in my opinion, but, I don't complain about their
others (red ale, amber, wheat, golden).  I can detect a distinct taste
in all of Abita's beer.  Since I drink my own beer much more often then
Abita, I haven't figured out what the taste is.

>Does anyone out there know if it can be purchased outside of Louisiana?

	I don't think so.  It is possible that it's sold right outside the
state (in Miss.) but I'm fairly sure they don't ship more then 100 miles or
so.

Dave
__________
Dave Bonar
eebonar@lsuvax.sncc.lsu.edu
__________
From: rich@progress.COM (Rich Lenihan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Head Space, etc . . .
Date: 14 Aug 92 16:49:47 GMT
Article-I.D.: progress.1992Aug14.164947.9286
Organization: Progress Software Corp.

homebrew@lupulus.ssc.gov writes:

>In HBD #947, Jack Schmidling writes that you could bottle leaving no head
>space. This is 180 degrees out of phase with what more than 20 other people
>have told me. They said that you have to have a minimum of one half-inch of
>space at the top or the bottle won't properly carbonate. I've never thought
>to ignore this advice so I don't know what happens if you fill it to the
>brim. Considering that the pro breweries do this, I'll run with the pack on
>this one.

I'm going to agree with Jack on this one.  I fill my bottles up to the lip
of the bottle (leaving about 1/4 inch or less headspace).  I'd fill to the
rim but that would be too messy.  Anyway, I get plenty of carbonation.
I was concerned when I started this that the bottles would explode, but that
hasn't happened.

As for why the pro's leave an inch or more of headspace, I don't know.  Since 
most of them force-carbonate, I don't think carbonation is the reason.

As to why I do it my way, less oxygen in headspace means:

   1.  less oxygen in beer
   2.  more beer in bottle
   3.  1 or two less bottles to fill

-Rich
--
Rich Lenihan                 UUCP: mit-eddie!progress!rich
Progress Software Corp.      Internet: rich@progress.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing,alt.beer
From: bfbrown@athena.mit.edu (Brian F. Brown)
Subject: Re: r.c.b.CLASSIFIED SECTION
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 19:19:06 GMT

jkdickin@yoho.uwaterloo.ca (John K. Dickinson) writes:
: In article <1992Aug12.053858.7689@ddsw1.mcs.com> arf@ddsw1.MCS.COM (Jack Schmidling) writes:
: >
: > : > I would insist on only the following restrictions:
: > 
: >   The same item shall not be offered or requested more than   
: >  once in a 30 day period.  
: > 
: >   All entries should be limited to 5 lines per sender.
: 				^^^^^^^^^^^^^
: 		How about 5 lines per item? Especially if the seller has
: unusual items (requiring a description) or so many items that it doesn't
: fit in five lines. I would want a description of an Item I was considering
: buying. But that is my taste and this is up to you as you said:

THIS IS RIDICULOUS!

A classified section can hurt no one, and help many.  No one forces you to
subscribe to any groups.  If you don't like it, DONT SUBSCRIBE.  If you do,
SUBSCRIBE.  It is as simple as that.  Don't waste everyone's time and band width
posting crap and making this into yet another alt.random.discussion.about.nothing
group.  Jack, that group would work well.  That is the last you will hear from me 
on this insipid issue.

-BB
From: slk6p@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: dry hopping ?
Date: 21 Aug 92 23:13:42 MDT
Organization: Utah State University

In article <1992Aug21.212702.9090@unlinfo.unl.edu>, rclopton@hoss.unl.edu (richard clopton) writes:
> We've got a recipe for bitter (thanks to the guys on the 'net),
> the refers to "dry hopping".  Never done it.  Never read about it.
> Now, while I can imagine several ways to do this - any one out there
> really know what goes into this "dry hopping" thing?
*Dry hopping means to add dry hops to a secondary fermenter (usually, could be
the primary).  Pellet hops are most convenient for this.  You can boil them
briefly in a little water, then add the whole soup, or just drop in an oz or
1/2 to the carboy and let it go a while.  
> 
> What's the effect of dry hopping rather than hopping the wort at boil?
*In the same concept that you have boiling hops added at the beginning of the
boil, and finishing hops a the end, you add dry hops even later and it tends to
impart a real "nosy"-ness to the beer.  The aroma and bouquet are really
boosted.  If you use bitter hops (northern brewer, bullion) it adds a sharper
bitter bite with the aromatics.  It seems like the 2% sugars in the hops give
the ferment a boost and it foams up a bit again.
		Experiment.  Enjoy.  Just wait for the hop pellets to settle
out then bottle.

				JDW

> 
> thanks,
> Rich
> 
> --
> RICH CLOPTON           |"These chapters, then, are the annals of a long and
> Parasitology (Yeehaa!) |uncompleted running.  I leave them here lest the end
> University of Nebraska |come on me unawares as it does to all fugitives."
> rclopton@hoss.unl.edu  |     - Loren Eiseley  'The Night Country'
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Subject: Re: Head Space, etc . . .
Organization: ddsw1.MCS.COM Contributor, Chicago, IL
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 1992 16:00:44 GMT
X-Disclaimer:  Material posted in this article is the sole responsibility of
                the poster and does not represent MCSNet or the system owners.

In article <1992Aug14.164947.9286@progress.com> rich@progress.COM (Rich Lenihan) writes:
>homebrew@lupulus.ssc.gov writes:
>
>
>As for why the pro's leave an inch or more of headspace, I don't know.  Since 
>most of them force-carbonate, I don't think carbonation is the reason.

I  doubt that carbonation has anything to do with it.  As I pointed out in
HBD and answered my own question, I suspect the reason is to guard agains
accedential freezing.  The head space allows a reasonable amout of
expansion before bursting the bottles.

js
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: rei3@kimbark.uchicago.edu (ted reichardt)
Subject: sparkling sweet mead?
Summary: Adding water to allow further fermentation
Reply-To: rei3@midway.uchicago.edu
Organization: U of Chicago
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 09:57:14 GMT

	I have a lemon mead going now, close to ready to bottle, but
I've hit a snag.  I'd planned on having the mead be sparkling (not
force carbonated), but it is not going to ferment out all the sugar.
I'm wondering whether it's feasible to add a bit of water to the mead
when I bottle it, to bring down the alcohol % enough to allow a bit
more fermentation to get the carbonation.  It is strongly flavored, so
adding the water is not going to make it taste weak.

	So, will this work okay?  and if so, does anybody know how
much water I'd want to add to get enough fermentation, but not too
much?

	Thanks,
tedr
From: abirenbo@rigel.cel.scg.hac.com (Aaron Birenboim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Questions about mead/wining
Date: 17 Aug 92 14:27:00 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Hughes Aircraft Colorado Engineering Labs

In article <1992Aug14.190115.20508@cbnewse.cb.att.com> jimf@cbnewse.cb.att.com (james.r.fehrenbacher) writes:
>
> From reading this newsgroup it appears that a
>special yeast must be used for winemaking,

yes, look in  the phone book for a brewing supply shop,
if there are none in your area, there are mail-order sources.
do not even bother to try and make any kind of beer or whine
without proper yeast.  baking yeast will makew some undrinkable
drek.

>Also, my recipes suggest using gallon jugs capped with 
>balloons for the fermentation process. Is that adequate for
>making decent wine?

yes.  however, i cannot stress SANITIZATION enough.  Please soak all
of your bottles AND BALOONS in a weak bleach solution.  ( however,
bleach may weaken baloons, making this methold less usefull... perhaps
you could pasteurize a baloon)

> Or is soem mroe specialized method 
>needed?

I think the best home-grown method is to put a tube in a cork,
bent 180 degrees, and submerge the end in a glass fo water or
bleach solution.  However, and brewing supplier or mail order
can sell you a nice fermentation lock for about $0.90.  They also
sell some nice food-grade rubber stoppers to put those locks
in for around a buck.  Sure you can make something just as good
at home, but when its so relatively cheap, why bother?



--
Aaron Birenboim                                |I am just too tired to think
abirenbo%rigel.cel.scg.hac.com@hac2arpa.hac.com|of a good quote.
abirenbo@isis.cs.du.edu                        |    - ChickenHead
w (303) 344-6486                               |
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: pyle@intellistor.com (Norm Pyle)
Subject: Re: PLASTIC (I know, yuck...)
Organization: Intellistor, Longmont, CO
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 92 13:37:28 GMT

In article <1992Aug13.175036.27563@athena.mit.edu> bfbrown@athena.mit.edu (Brian F. Brown) writes:
>I will accept flames bravely, but I really want to know what is so bad about
>using plastic carboys for fermentation and exactly how bad it is; i.e. if I want
>to brew a keg's worth for a bunch of (mostly) unappreciative fraternity-party-
>going drunkards, will it still be a ton better than the overpriced kegs of
>bud and bud light we usually get, or will whatever the plastic does ruin the batch
>and make it taste worse (I will be brewing a light lager w/high sugar and little
>hops).

It will be a ton better but I wouldn't waste my time and energy "for a bunch
of (mostly) unappreciative fraternity-party-going drunkards".  Nosirree, not
me.

Norm
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: gdw@po.CWRU.Edu (Gary D. Wright)
Subject: Wort Chiller Recipe
Reply-To: gdw@po.CWRU.Edu (Gary D. Wright)
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 92 02:11:06 GMT


After getting several dozen requests for the plans to my cheap 'n
dirty wort chiller, it seems the logical thing to do is post it...
but first I want to make a trip to the hardware store to learn the
fancy names for the couplers I use to attach the hose to the faucet,
and check on diameters of tubing etc.  I'll make this trek by
week's end, gods of occupation and marital bliss notwithstanding, and
post it by Monday.  
-- 
Gary D. Wright                       "Somewhere, back in the 60's, we got
Dir., Ctr for Music & Tech               Art confused with Entertainment."
CWRU Music Department                         American composer Donald Erb
gdw@po.cwru.edu
From: tynor@hydra.gatech.edu (STEVE TYNOR)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: 'Nessie' ale? (was Washington D.C. places for beer)
Date: 12 Aug 92 13:39:14 GMT
Organization: Georgia Tech Research Institute
In-reply-to: craigs@pyrtech.mis.pyramid.com's message of 11 Aug 92 20:29:48 GMT

In article <92224.085027RMCCU@CUNYVM.BITNET> RMCCU@CUNYVM.BITNET (Robert Chambers) writes:

| I was down there a month or so ago and was directed to a place called
| 'The Brickskeller' - Basically this joint has over 500 kinds of beer
| to sell.  We sampled ale from a few lands and enjoyed them immensely.

The Brickskeller! I stopped by there a couple years ago on a trip to
D.C. and sampled a Belgian ale called 'Nessie'. 'Twas the best beer I'd
ever tasted in my life (or since). 

Can anyone tell me what 'style' of beer this is?  I've looked for it in the
Pocket Guide To Beer and a couple of other books without any luck...

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Look out! There are llamas!
                     
    Steve Tynor
    Georgia Tech Research Institute
    tynor@prism.gatech.edu
Xref: sparky rec.crafts.brewing:4710 alt.beer:4902
From: cuccia@remarque.berkeley.edu (Nick Cuccia)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing,alt.beer
Subject: Re: New BrewPub list
Date: 18 Aug 92 20:14:21 GMT
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
NNTP-Posting-Host: remarque.berkeley.edu

In article <1992Aug14.185015.6367@sarah.albany.edu> jim@thor.albany.edu (SCHLEMMER JAMES A) writes:
>The problem with TeX is that not everybody has it and it is a pretty
>damn big system so that not everybody *can* have it.  I think that 
>PS is nice but it is big.  Perhaps we can split this thing into regional
>files.  I know the The New England Beer Club Digest has already compiled
>such a list - there's one region down.  Perhaps straight compressed
>ASCII text is the way to go.  Then if you want to import it into a word
>processor  etc., you could work that out on your own.  

When I started keeping my brewpub/micro list, I was looking for a format that
could be dealt with simply on the various platforms that I have access to (Macs,
VMS systems, UNIX systems, PCs).  The only reasonable choice is still ASCII.
TeX, troff, and PostScript all provide pretty output capabilities, but none
is universal.  The same can be said for the various WP (Frame, Word) or 
spreadsheet (lotus, quattro) formats.

The format that I use is pretty simple:

	Name
	Street Address
	City, State, Zip
	Phone Number
	Description of the bar/wares/whatever.
	Container availability
	Accessibility via mass transit

>Then again maybe this thing isn't going to be *that* big - anyone 
>have a feel for how many brewpubs we're going to end up with?

Probably about 200 or so, if you're counting just the US and Canada.  I'd
guess that half of them will be in the following metropolitan areas:

	Vancouver/Victoria
	Seattle
	Portland
	SF Bay Area

Since I'm already maintaining a list for the SF Bay Area, I volunteer to 
continue...

--Nick
-- 
===============================================================================
 And Little Sir John with his nut brown bowl, and his brandy in the glass.
 And Little Sir John with his nut brown bowl proved the strongest man at last.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: hersh@expo.lcs.mit.edu (Jay Hersh)
Subject: Re: Mashing from Micah Millspaw, etc.
Organization: X Consortium, MIT Laboratory for Computer Science
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 19:47:08 GMT

homebrew@lupulus.ssc.gov writes:

>Micah Millspaw posts:
>> It is a simple thing to increase
>> the mash temperature by adding more hot water at the time it is needed
>> for the step increase. The mash out can be conducted the same way. This
>> approach to mashing is a part of the gentle mash that can reduce the
>> effects of hot oxygen reactions.

>The statement that oxygen reactions can be bad even in the mash makes me
>wonder about old-fashioned small brewery mash tuns, the open kind with
>big rotating paddles that vigorously mix the mash.  Are they reducing
>the quality of their beer without knowing it?

Umm maybe I misunderstood George Fix's book, but I am under the understanding 
that the hot wort oxygen reactions happen due to precursors present from
the grain after the boil. My impression from George's discussion
is that boiling breaks down these precursors, but they re-form 
during periods when the wort stands hot (thus the importance of chilling
your wort) and that introduction of oxygen is thus unimportant at mashing
time since boiling will break down such compounds.

Now *I* may be the one misinterpreting here, so If Micah is reading
can you please lend more insight on where your concerns about 
hot oxygen reactions PRIOR to the boil come from...



	JaH

--
Hopfen und Malz, Gott erhalts
There is nothing open about OpenGL
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: gdw@po.CWRU.Edu (Gary D. Wright)
Subject: Re: When do you rack from primary to secondary?
Reply-To: gdw@po.CWRU.Edu (Gary D. Wright)
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 92 02:51:37 GMT


In a previous article, reb@Ingres.COM (Phydeaux) says:

>I was just curious as to when people generally racked from the primary
>to the secondary fermenter... why do you  do it when  you do it?  I've
>heard several different opinions on the subject.
>							reb
>
Greetings, all---I'm new to this net.

I'm a firm believer in the if it ain't broke then don't fix it syndrome.
I always wait, wait, wait until active fermentation is truly done
its deed.  Now, most books aren't really specific as to what "active"
fermentation is, so I let things sit until no discernible activity is
left, usually ten days to two weeks for an ale.  Then rack it off
(I also personally hate the old mouth siphon trick, and reckon good
old tap water has less nasties in it than does saliva) for a good
settling period (another week at least).

Now, this works for me because I manage to get rid of alot of the 
trub (vis. trub-le) right after I pitch the yeast (well, actually
the next morning).  You see, I get the temperature fairly low with
my home-designed wort chiller (don't pitch at 85 degrees; get it
down into the 60s for ale), then pitch the yeast (with lots of good
aeriation), and wait overnite for all that coagulated protein from
the hot and cold break to meander down to the bottom of the fermen-
tation bin. 

This is a must, I reckon, for all-grain brewing.  You have alot less
trouble with kits of course.  Alot of my haze problems have cleared
up with this approach.  Be careful to keep oxygen out of your brew
each time you move it.  I ferment in covered food-grade plastic with
a good airlock, and allow secondary fermentation in glass carboys.

Good luck!

Gary.
-- 
Gary D. Wright                       "Somewhere, back in the 60's, we got
Dir., Ctr for Music & Tech               Art confused with Entertainment."
CWRU Music Department                         American composer Donald Erb
gdw@po.cwru.edu
From: wayne@r-node.gts.org (Wayne)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Low O.G. - what's a brewmeister to do?
Keywords: DME dumb
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 12:52:57 GMT
Organization: Public Access UNIX Information System

In article <mcnally.714261222@wsl.pa.dec.com> mcnally@wsl.dec.com (Mike McNally) writes:
>mal@genrad.com (Mike A. Long) writes:
>>OK, I'll admit it.   Whenever I brew, I follow the recipe to the letter.
>>But when I take my S.G. for the original gravity, I usually get a VERY
>>low reading.
>...
>>To give you an indication, my brew's recipe called for an SG of 1.042, and
>>I am reading 1.020...
>
>If you're extract-brewing, I suggest you make sure that you're really
>following the recipe; it'd be hard to wind up that far off.
>
>If you're mashing, then it looks to me like there's a problem with
>that process.  You could have crushing problems, temperature problems,
>pH problems, equipment problems, or process problems.  Perhaps you 
>could post more details.

I have also experienced this problem, but not to the same degree as you
have, usually I just dump in a half pound of corn sugar, I know I should
use malt but corn sugar is a cheap adjunct and I always have a few 
pounds of it around.
-- 
Wayne Dawe
wayne@r-node.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: reb@Ingres.COM (Phydeaux)
Subject: When do you rack from primary to secondary?
Keywords: Monkey donkey turkey
Reply-To: reb@Ingres.COM (Phydeaux)
Organization: E 4th St Home For The Overeducated Underemployed - Chicago Div.
Date: 17 Aug 92 22:13:56 GMT

I was just curious as to when people generally racked from the primary
to the secondary fermenter... why do you  do it when  you do it?  I've
heard several different opinions on the subject.
							reb
From: slndw@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: PLASTIC (I know, yuck...)
Date: 14 Aug 92 13:21:31 MDT
Organization: Utah State University

In article <1992Aug13.175036.27563@athena.mit.edu>, bfbrown@athena.mit.edu (Brian F. Brown) writes:
> I will accept flames bravely, but I really want to know what is so bad about
> using plastic carboys for fermentation and exactly how bad it is; i.e. if I want

I usually use both.  I do a short (2-4 days) in a plastic bucket, then a 
secondary in a glass carboy.  The bucket is easy to clean, and the glass is, 
well, glass.   I made about four brews in plastic buckets only (A second
bucket for secondary for two of them) and the beer was wonderful.  I assume 
you are talking about using plastic carboys (ie, drinking water bottles).
A friend uses both these and glass carboys, depending on what is empty.  
Personally I wouldn't want to use the sparkletts bottles because they look
very hard to clean the ribs, and plastic supposedly "breaths."  However, I
have tasted the beers from plastic fermenters, and they are fine.  The 
plastic carboys are not as sturdy and can crack, which is a bummer.  But...
whatever works.

> to brew a keg's worth for a bunch of (mostly) unappreciative fraternity-party-
> going drunkards, will it still be a ton better than the overpriced kegs of
> bud and bud light we usually get, 

I am sure it will be much better.  However, will these yahoos actually taste
the beer, or will they be several sheets to the wind before they get to try
it??  Oh, just do it.  

or will whatever the plastic does ruin the batch
> and make it taste worse (I will be brewing a light lager w/high sugar and little
> hops).

I doubt it will taste worse.  Sounds like a high strengh brew that you plan
to knock some people into the dirt with.  Nasty trick if they think they are
drinking coorsmiller ultra lite dry no taste brew.  Oh, just do it.  They
will love it.  And if they don't, you'll have more to drink with the (few)
appreciative party-going brew hounds!!!!



> 
> Thanks, Mail or Post, I can take it.
> 
> -BB



brew on fellow fermenter...

-toot
From: pepke@gw.scri.fsu.edu (Eric Pepke)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: aeration - when?
Date: 18 Aug 92 17:04:46 GMT
Organization: Florida State University, but I don't speak for them

In article <18AUG199208584594@watson.bms.com> kaz@watson.bms.com (Joe 
Kazimierczyk) writes:
> I recall reading somewhere (can't
> remember where) that one should avoid aeration when pouring the
> hot wort into a fermentation bucket.   Is this correct?  If so, why?

This is correct.  It's because aeration while hot will cause oxidation, 
which tastes bad.

> Is violently stirring the wort after it's cooled, but just before pitching,
> the generally accepted method?

I chill my wort and then pour and aerate it.  This is because 1) it 
prevents me from worrying about oxidation, and 2) the last time I poured 
hot wort my hand slipped and a couple of gallons wound up on my foot.  The 
skin has grown back and is not even discolored.  Nevertheless, it is not 
an experience I am eager to repeat.

Eric Pepke                                    INTERNET:pepke@gw.scri.fsu.edu
Supercomp uter Computations Research Institute MFENET:   pepke@fsu
Florida State University                      SPAN:     scri::pepke
Tallahassee, FL 32306-4052                    BITNET:   pepke@fsu

Disclaimer: My employers seldom even LISTEN to my opinions.
Meta-disclaimer: Any society that needs disclaimers has too many lawyers.