HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: tapp@uvphys.phys.uvic.ca (Bob Tapp)
Subject: Re: What causes a washer to squeak real bad?
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.3-4   
Reply-To: tapp@uvphys.phys.uvic.ca
Organization: UVic, Physics & Astronomy, Victoria, BC
Distribution: usa
Date: 15 DEC 92 10:23:07    

In article <1gichkINNlp6@eagle.natinst.com>, darrenl@natinst.com (Darren Lilie) writes...
>We have a Maytag washer that squeaks real bad(I think it is during the rinse
>cycle).  It doesnt squeak 100% of the time but every so often it lets out
>this loud squeak that sounds like real loud crickets.  

Our Maytag did that when a sock got stuck in the pump.

To check inside the pump, take off the front panel and remove the rubber
hose(s) from the pump. 

Bob Tapp, University of Victoria
tapp@uvphys.phys.UVic.CA
From: mike@ncrspks.SparksNV.NCR.COM (Michael Clymer)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: What causes a washer to squeak real bad?
Date: 15 Dec 92 20:21:12 GMT
Reply-To: mike@ncrspks.SparksNV.NCR.COM (Root)
Distribution: usa
Organization: NCR Corporation, FESC 778 Sparks

In article <1gichkINNlp6@eagle.natinst.com> darrenl@natinst.com (Darren Lilie) writes:
>We have a Maytag washer that squeaks real bad(I think it is during the rinse
>cycle).  It doesnt squeak 100% of the time but every so often it lets out
>this loud squeak that sounds like real loud crickets.  
>Anyone have any ideas?

	Two thoughts:

	1)  The drive belt is loose, and during the spin it slips.

	2)  The drum damper is worn out.  This is a pad that presses
	    on the top part of the wash drum.  I is an appx. 2 inch
	    pad of auto break - like material which is used to dampen
	    the drum movement during the spin cycle.  I have used 80
	    grit sand paper to roughen up the surface of the pad and
	    stopped the squeaking.


	Good luck!


|   Michael Lee Clymer, Systems Administrator, NCR Corporation, Sparks    |
|   voice: (702)856-1832                 |          MORE POWER!           | 
|   VoicePlus: 270-1000                  | "If everything works, you have | 
|   Email: mike.clymer@SparksNV.NCR.COM  |  completed the installation."  |
From: stan.protigal%phant@hpbs938.boi.hp.com (Stan Protigal) 
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Microwaves-Sharp R4H74-
Date: 14 Dec 92 20:11:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Phantasia BBS - Boise, ID - 208-939-1350
Reply-To: stan.protigal%phant@hpbs938.boi.hp.com (Stan Protigal) 

BO> Supposedly this model is the top of the line in the 1.2 cu. ft
  > size with 900 watts-delux sensor that automatically senses the
  > moisture in an item and quickly reheats the item.

I have an Amana RR1110, which is a 1000 W output, 20 amp unit.  At
$190, I would guess the 900 watts is input watts, with 450 Watts
out.  If it has more than 750 out, it will have a 20 Amp (or a
220v) plug, rather than the standard two-horizontal prongs with
ground.

In general, the best on the market today are Littons, with
commercial ovens being the only ones with more than 750W out.  Many
of the offshore ovens require turntables to evenly cook food,
whereas the Littons and better Amanas have antenna "stirrers" which
evenly distribute microwaves.

Moisture sensors are common with several makes.
---
 . from Boise!  If you drink and drive, don't smoke.
                                              
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: kam@hpcvxkm.cv.hp.com (Keith Marchington)
Subject: Re: Bread Makers
Reply-To: kam@hpcvlx.cv.hp.com
Organization: UTD-CV Corvallis, OR
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 01:06:28 GMT


In article <BzD64L.DF5.1@cs.cmu.edu>, jennie+@cs.cmu.edu (Jennifer Kay) writes:
|> 
|> I would recommend against buying a bread machine. We own one of the 
|> Welbuilt types, and it does an _OK_ job some of the time. 
    ^^^^^^^^^^^^
[stuff deleted]

|> -- Jennie

Well, there's your problem.  You bought a Yugo and expected it to work
like a BMW.  Doesn't work that way.  I have a Panasonic.  It never
fails to make a great loaf of bread.

Keith
From: brennan@hal.com (Dave Brennan)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: X10 questions, sources
Date: 14 Dec 92 06:03:32 GMT
	<1992Dec10.212144.18016@isunix.cdx.mot.com>
Distribution: usa
Organization: HaL Computer Systems, Austin, TX
NNTP-Posting-Host: hysteria.hal.com
In-reply-to: Jensen_C@msm.cdx.mot.com's message of 10 Dec 92 21:21:44 GMT

>>>>> On 10 Dec 92 21:21:44 GMT, Jensen_C@msm.cdx.mot.com said:
> You can get a catalog from Home Labs on X10 stuff by calling
> 1-800-HOME-LAB (4663-522)

You can also call Home Control Concepts @ 1-800-828-8537.

On a related note, I'm about to have a house built and would be interested
in hearing about what I should do with respect to outlets, switches, etc.
if I decide to go with some X10 stuff.  Will I be able to save myself some
money if I get X10 components installed instead of the standard stuff?
I assume I'd have to coordinate somehow with the builder, who hopefully
won't be too much of a weasel.  Does anybody have any experiences??


--
Dave Brennan                                      HaL Computer Systems
brennan@hal.com                                         (512) 794-2855
From: egreen@East.Sun.COM (Ed Green - Pixel Cruncher)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: How to tell a REAL buyer's agent
Date: 15 Dec 1992 16:52:57 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, RTP, NC
Distribution: world
Reply-To: egreen@East.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: laser.east.sun.com

In article IFA@magpie.nycenet.edu, manes@magpie.nycenet.edu (Steve Manes) writes:
>
>		Catherine Calise
>
>a gold star for her relentless efforts to keep me happy and homey
>and for making this a house-buying business one-tenth as painless
>as I thought it would be.

... so she increased your pain factor nine-fold?   :^)

---
Ed Green, former Ninjaite |I was drinking last night with a biker,
  Ed.Green@East.Sun.COM   |and I showed him a picture of you.  I said,
DoD #0111  (919)460-8302  |"Go on, get to know her, you'll like her!"
 (The Grateful Dead) -->  |It seemed like the least I could do...
Organization: Stanford Linear Accelerator Center
Date: Friday, 11 Dec 1992 10:50:49 PST
From: Charles Young <YOUNG@SLACVM.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU>
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: garage door openers
 <1992Dec10.100113.23152@ncrcae.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM>
 <11DEC199209410515@addvax.llnl.gov>

In article <11DEC199209410515@addvax.llnl.gov>, lim@addvax.llnl.gov (Doug Lim)
says:
>
>In article <1992Dec10.100113.23152@ncrcae.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM>,
>shawn@grok90.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM (Shawn Shealy) writes...
>>My question:
>>  I already have 1 garage opener, a Sears.  I am interested in
>>  buying another and am considering a Stanley 3500 (if I can
>>  find one) because of Consumers Reports good rating.  I would
>>  like to have 2 garage door opener transmitters which could
>>  each open either of my 2 garage doors.  Do these dual control
>>  transmitters exist?  If so, where can I locate one?  Are they
>>  available separately or only with an opener.  The system that
>>  I use must have security code capability on the transmitter/receiver.
>>  The opener that I currently have does have this.  Does Stanley
>>  make a dual controller?  Sears?
>>
>I would be interested in this as well. I have a related need - My parents
>and two of my brothers all have Genie Garage Door Openers. Because of this
>they can use the same security codes and therefore when visiting each other
>can open each others' garage doors with the same remote...kind of handy. I
>would like to not buck the family trend. But seeing how Consumers Reports
>rated the Stanley so highly and the fact that in my area I can buy the Stanley
>for a much cheaper price it would be nice to get the Stanley. Is it possible
>as the above requester asks to access different brand garage door openers with
>a single remote (a univeral garage door remote?)? Is there any correspondence
>between the security code systems of different brands and how would you figure
>it out?
>
>By the way my brothers' Genie Garage Door Openers have dual controllers (ie
>they have two buttons) for opening their two garage doors, but both of their
>garage doors have Genies.
>
>Thanks In Advance For Your Time And Assistance,
>| | | |     +----------------------------------------+
>| | | |     |      Doug Lim - DougLim@llnl.gov       |
>| | | |__   | Lawrence Livermore National Laboratory |
>| | |___/   |        Computer Scientist - ASD        |
>\ \____/    |    (510) 423-6019 FAX: (510)423-2419   |
> \____/     +----------------------------------------+


Two button remote controls exist. I know Aaron Garage Doors in San Jose has
them. The model I was looking at has individually set security codes for the
two channels. My friend bought one to operate a single garage door and the
security gate of his townhouse complex.

I forgot who the manufacturer was, or if there are multiple vendors. We were
strictly looking to match existing base units.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,rec.woodworking
From: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (patterson,george r)
Subject: Re: staining pine vs staining lauan
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 92 22:52:17 GMT

In article <9212151309.PN11337@LL.MIT.EDU> killoran@ll.mit.edu (Mike Killoran) writes:
>
>	How does one choose what to apply to bare wood?

In my case it's very simple. Varnish was the first type of clear finish
that I ever had much success with (back in the dark ages). I'm of the "if
it ain't broke don't fix it" school, so varnish is about all I use. I use
gloss finish type; the satin finish varieties have a dulling powder added
to them, and this builds up with multiple coats. I'll use one coat of
satin on top of the gloss if I want a satin finish.

The polyurethanes are good in any situation inside. In an application
with high exposure to sunlight, I use spar varnish.

"Deft" finishes are also easy to use and last a long time, but I haven't
used these on trim.

>If I replace the trim, what should I cover the bare wood with?  Does 
>stain protect the wood, or is a varnish necessary on top?

Stain colors the wood; it doesn't do much to protect it. You'll want a
coat of either varnish or shellac (IMO). There are water based and mineral
based varnishes; I prefer the latter, you'll find plenty who swear by the
former. Shellac is alcohol based.

If you use filler to plug nail holes, apply one coat of finish to the
trim. Then fill the holes. Either use a filler that's colored to match
the wood, or use one that can be stained (I use Elmer's, my father had
a love affair with plastic wood). You can mix stain into the filler
before using it or stain it after applying. I find mixing the stain
into the filler too time consuming, so I use a varnish which has a stain
mixed in and touch up the filled holes with this. I use this only for
touching up the filler; I use only clear varnish for everything else.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | If it were not possible to allow a little energetic
George Patterson -  | discussion between opposing factions, there would
                    | be no market for tire irons or band-aids.
                    |                             Sam Venable
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis)
Subject: Programmable Thermostat
Organization: OSF Research Institute
Distribution: usa 
Date: 17 Dec 92 18:49:27

Are there any programmable thermostats that allow a different program
for every day, not just weekday/Sat/Sun?

	-s
From: brennan@hal.com (Dave Brennan)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Building a new house
Date: 14 Dec 92 06:34:06 GMT
Organization: HaL Computer Systems, Austin, TX
NNTP-Posting-Host: hysteria.hal.com

I'm just getting started in having a new house built and want to do
everything I can to make sure that the job gets done right.  It's not
a custom job, but a canned plan, so I'll be dealing with the builder
and not the contractors (right?).

I'm just getting started so I'm at the point where I need to decide
on any modifications and changes to the plans, but I've never done 
this before so I don't know about everything I should be considering
and checking on.  The builder told me that now is the time to get
any changes figured out, as it will be a lot more expensive to make
changes once the construction has started.

I'm also concerned about how to make sure that the construction is
of high quality.  I'll have unlimited access to the house while it
is being built (which is hopefully a good sign that the builder doen't
plan on trying to hide anything -- either that or they're counting
on my ignorance :-)

Oh yea, the house that they'll be building is a brand new plan, and mine
will be the second one to be built.  The first will be a model and is still
in the early stages of construction.  I'm somehwat concerned, since this
means they don't have any experience with this plan, and my house will be
one of the "guinea pigs."  Is this a valid concern??  Maybe I should follow
the progress of the model since I may catch some problems before they happen
in my house.  Walking throught the model I noticed a badly placed
ventilation pipe (in the corner of one of the bedrooms!) which I told them I
absolutely did not want.

Please send me your comments and experiences!
I'll happily post or mail summaries depending on interest.

--
Dave Brennan                                      HaL Computer Systems
brennan@hal.com                                         (512) 794-2855
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: okagaki@kafka.SAIC.COM (Karen Okagaki x6515)
Subject: The Rat is Dead (Rats in my Attic)
Organization: SAIC
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 18:35:30 GMT

Thanks to those who responded regarding our rodent problem.
We have learned many things:
1. My line lengths are too long.
2. People hate long line lengths.
3. When people hate long line lengths, they get really mad
4. When people get mad, they send e-mail and complain.

Oh, and about those rodents, we tried the old camcorder
trick (great suggestion) and found out the rats were getting in
to the house from the roof attic vent.  We also discovered,
quite by accident, that rats hate heavy metal music.  And
finally, we have found that our cat is totally worthless when
it comes to hunting rats.  He is, however, excellent at
chasing down little foam bouncy balls.  So, we continue to
set rat traps, and if we ever have a serious
infestation of little foam bouncy balls in the attic, 
we're ready.

Karen
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: rogerv@sco.COM (Roger Vortman)
Subject: Re: How often do septic systems need to be
Organization: The Santa Cruz Operation, Inc.
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 02:16:58 GMT


>In article <1992Dec8.184153.1558@cs.wayne.edu> mje@pookie.pass.wayne.edu writes:
>>Rural friends tell me that if you treat your septic system right, feeding it
>>active microorganisms and never pouring toxic wastes down your drains, you
>>*never* have to clean a septic tank out. Enough people have told me this that
>>I believe it.            --mike

>I just asked my home inspector this same question. His response was that the
>tank should be pumped ever year or two.

>I guess that I could look inside each year to see how things are progressing
>just ot be sure.

It certainly doesn't hurt to check out your septic tank every year, but 
most people around here say every 3-5 years.

-Roger
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: pickel@mcnc.org (Lisa C. Pickel)
Subject: Re: Bread Makers
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 17:23:20 GMT

>|> In article <BzD64L.DF5.1@cs.cmu.edu> jennie+@cs.cmu.edu (Jennifer
>Kay) writes:
>|> >
>|> >I would recommend against buying a bread machine. 

In article <1992Dec17.010417.151@hpcvusn.cv.hp.com> kam@hpcvlx.cv.hp.com writes:
>Well, as somebody who has been putting his bread machine to the test
>daily for about TWO YEARS now, I'd say that a bread machine, for a
>fresh, hot bread lover like myself, is fabulous.  

I love ours.  We call him R2Dough2.  And I have an idea which may explain
why some people have bad results with these machines....

Do you watch it as it mixes the dough for the first couple minutes?  I find
that, in nearly every batch, I have to add one to two cups MORE FLOUR than
the recipes call for.  Keep adding flour until the dough forms a ball, just
like you would if you were hand-kneading.  Otherwise, what you get will in no
way resemble bread.  

Until you figure out how to adjust each recipe for your house's particular
temperature and humidity, you probably can't just dump the ingredients in
and expect great results.

just trying to keep these adorable creatures from the dreaded garage sale,
Lisa.
Xref: sparky misc.consumers.house:15877 rec.food.cooking:23363
From: lim@addvax.llnl.gov (Doug Lim)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,rec.food.cooking
Subject: Re: Is a convection oven worth the cost ??
Date: 17 Dec 92 17:01:00 GMT
Reply-To: DougLim@llnl.gov
Followup-To: misc.consumers.house
Organization: LLNL
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <1992Dec16.160553.8802@pwa-b.uucp>,
miorelli@pwa-b.uucp (BoB Miorelli) writes...
>Jennair also sells a combination bake/convection oven.  I know what a regular
>bake oven is, I know all about microwave ovens, but I'm not really
>up on the pros/cons of a convection oven.  My limited understanding is that
>they circulate the heat and cook MUCH faster than a regular oven.  Anyone
>shed some light on the advantages/disadvantages of a convection oven?
>Also, any opinions on any of the Jennair line would certainly be welcome.

My parents have the jennair convection oven. It works great. The food cooks
very evenly and it does cook food a little faster. The general rule of thumb
they use is drop the temperature setting 25-50 degrees and decrease the time
a little too (for example something that is supposed to cook 45 minutes, they
would cook for about 30 to 35 minutes). The only complaint my mom has about
the oven was at the time they bought their oven (~1983), they did not have an
oven as big as her old one and she wishes that it was possible to get a bigger
oven. My parents in general are very happy with their jennair convection oven!

P.S. Another trick they use when cooking something they haven't baked before is
always set the timer for a time a little less than they think it will take, so
they can check on it and adjust the time based on how it looks.

| | | |     +----------------------------------------+
| | | |     |      Doug Lim - DougLim@llnl.gov       |
| | | |__   | Lawrence Livermore National Laboratory |
| | |___/   |        Computer Scientist - ASD        |
\ \____/    |    (510) 423-6019 FAX: (510)423-2419   |
 \____/     +----------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,misc.consumers,misc.misc
From: moy@jomby.cs.wisc.edu (Howard Moy)
Subject: Re: TV Antenna Advice NEEDED
Organization: University of Wisconsin, Madison -- Computer Sciences Dept.
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 10:36:25 GMT

Don't buy those plug in the wall tv antennas, they're a joke.
You'd probably get better reception with 'rabbit ears'.
If you hear anything about the terk indoor tv antenna,
please let me know.

-- 
-Howard
_______________________________________________________________________________
!			       Howard Moy				      !
!			     (608) 255-6379				      !	
!		      Univ. of Wisconsin - Madison			      !
!	moy@cae.wisc.edu			moy@jomby.cs.wisc.edu	      !
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
From: sbishop@desire.wright.edu
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: How often do septic systems need to be
Date: 12 Dec 92 19:12:12 EST
Distribution: na
Organization:  Wright State University 

In article <2433@mcdbos.UUCP>, vinceg@mcdbos.UUCP (Vince Grove) writes:
> In article <1992Dec8.184153.1558@cs.wayne.edu> mje@pookie.pass.wayne.edu writes:
>>Rural friends tell me that if you treat your septic system right, feeding it
>>active microorganisms and never pouring toxic wastes down your drains, you
>>*never* have to clean a septic tank out. Enough people have told me this that
>>I believe it.            --mike
> 
> I just asked my home inspector this same question. His response was that the
> tank should be pumped ever year or two.
> 
> I guess that I could look inside each year to see how things are progressing
> just ot be sure.
> 

Every year or two sounds excessive to me.  We had ours pumped out about five
years ago, the system is now a total of 11 years old.  I'll probably get it
pumped out next summer.
The crew that came to do the pumping were extremely like Larry, Darryl and
Darryl.  My kids STILL talk about them.


Sue

> 
> -- 
> Vince Grove				Motorola Computer Group
> vinceg@bos.mcd.mot.com			300 Unicorn Park
> 617-932-1195				Woburn, MA 01801
From: Larry.Turvy@AtlantaGA.NCR.COM (Larry Turvy)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: test
Date: 11 Dec 92 21:30:39 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: NCR Engineering and Manufacturing Atlanta -- Atlanta, GA

this is a test
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (patterson,george r)
Subject: Re: Attic Insulation addenum
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 92 02:36:38 GMT

In article <92352.160556RMCCU@CUNYVM.BITNET> Robert Chambers <RMCCU@CUNYVM.BITNET> writes:
>Sorry to confuse, but it appears I used the wrong word in my previous
>post.  I have received some really useful info for the ceiling insulation
>(which I will be doing as well).  My question (in my mind anyway) was
>not the top of the ceilings but directly under the roof-timber which
>is directly under the roof shingles.  My house is a cape style so the
>rooms upstairs are technically in the attic.  The place I need to
>insulate is the underside of the roof (the pitched part). The roof boards are
>supported by 2" by 6".  This is where I'm worried about moisture buildup.

No problem. They make a product (which I've seen at Home Depot) that's
made of expanded foam plastic that you tack up to the roof. It's shaped
like this -

     __               __
       \_____________/

Put these up between the joists to provide for ventilation. Then insulate
over that. I would use a high density 3.5" insulation. You'd have -

    __________________________
     | |  \_____________/  | |
     | |-------------------| |
     | |                   | |
     | | insulation        | |
     -------------------------
          vapor barrier


-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | Have a place for everything and keep the thing
George Patterson -  | somewhere else. This is not advice, merely custom.
                    |                        Samuel Clemens
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: dan.stratton%phant@hpbs938.boi.hp.com (Dan Stratton) 
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Another dead clothes dryer
Date: 11 Dec 92 12:31:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Phantasia BBS - Boise, ID - 208-939-1350
Reply-To: dan.stratton%phant@hpbs938.boi.hp.com (Dan Stratton) 

TO: misc.consumer.house
Reply-To: dan.stratton%phant@hpbs938.boi.hp.com

I have another dryer problem.  Ours won't start.  It buzzes and sits
there.  After a while it just quits altogether.  A few hours later, it
will buzz again.  I have found that if I try and start it with the door
open, I can get it to go if I turn the drum inside while I puch the
start button.  As this takes two people to accomplish, it makes life a
little more difficult than I would like it to be.  Taking the clothes
out of the drum seems to help to.

To me it sounds like the clutch or what ever it is in there that gets
the drum rolling is going bad.  Is this a terminal illness, or is it
fixable???  Thanks in advance.

 * OLX 2.1 TD * All hope abandon, ye who enter messages here.