From: mercier@seas.gwu.edu (Charles Mercier)
Subject: Re: Snowboarding notes and tune-up questions...
Keywords: edges, waxing
Organization: George Washington University
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 17:48:12 GMT

In article <1dmkdkINNq2r@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> bz754@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Derek J. Wojciech) writes:
>
>        Well, the boarding season is almost here (1 month!) and I have to get
>my board in shape.  I know a tune-up is recommended after each season.  I
>think I can use a metal file on the edges, and maybe some sandpaper???
>What type of file (fine I assume?)  My base is in okay condition.  Should I
>'remove' that wax I put on from last season?  How would this be done?  What
>exactly does a base-grinder do for ya?  I assume it smooths the base, but
>that also thins out the base too?  I have about 4 or 5 gashes in the ptex, but
>not very serious.  About 1-2 mm deep.  I also have a ptex stick.  I heard
>that you just melt the ptex onto the base and then sand it down.  So 3
>questions.  Does base grinding wear down the base thickness appreciably?
>How is ptex repair done?  Can I fix up my base without taking it to the shop?
>Thanx for all the advice!!!

SANDPAPER?!?!?!?!?   NO-NO-NO-NO-NO-NO-NO-NO!!!  (ow... the pain!!!)
Charlie's Primary waxing Law:  Sandpaper is BAD!!! (not good.) 
						{i just made that}
Doing your edges is really a breeze, it just takes one or two times to
get the hang of it.

What 'ya need:
	Steel File: med. to fine (your standard metal one is OK)
	Plastic Stright-Edge: you can get a generic one for ~$.05 
			      or Burton will sell it to 'ya for alot more.
	Ptex stick: any half decent ski shop will have it.
	Moms Iron: to melt the wax. (don't let her know, she'll toast the 
		   first shirt she works on after your done)  :+)
	Wax bars: any half decent ski shop will have it.
	If 'Ya gonna do it alot get a vice also (big $$)

i) Scrape the excess wax off the edges. (just done to keep wax off the file)
	{you might want to get a file cleaner also}
1) Start with the edges: 
	Start with the edges so that if 'ya scuff the board it'll be easy
	to fix later.  File the edges at the angles prefered (generic = 90deg.)
	when you file, go down the board, not up.  Also try not to file 
	the wax.  It makes later harder and gets the file all icky.  When your
	filing, try & set the groves of the file close to 90 deg. to the motion
	that your filing.
2) Ptex:
	This is the talent part.  Take a BIC lighter & torch the ptex stick.
	The trick is to melt the crap without burinig any of it. When ptex 
	lights, parts of it will start to burn.  It's not really bad,
	but when it carbonizes it turns black.  So 'till ya get good, all 
	your ptex patches will be black.  (My 1st two boards have Zebra stripes
	ALL over them!) - So don't sweat it if you get some of the black crap
	in with the melted ptex.  It doesn't make the job any worse than if a 
	pro did it, it'll just look messey.  
	Drip the liquid ptex in the axe wounds of your board.  If the only 
	damage is little scratchs, don't worry about this, just wax over it
	(see next step).  For the really ugly holes drip layers of ptex down,
	but wait 'till the first layer dries before laying the next layer down.
3) Wax:
	Get a damp towel & wipe & dry the board.  Take the bars of wax &
	melt it with the iron, dripping the wax on the board. Cover the 
	entire board with wax.  
	Let dry.
	Take the plastic scraper and procede to take all the wax that you
	just melted on, off.  (it will leave a very thin layer of wax down
	and will fill in all the little knicks.)
	(hint: hold the iron w/ the pointy part down to better direct 
	the flow of wax)
	(bonus hint: when packing the board up for the season, leave a layer 
	of wax over the edges to prevent rusting)

	Walla! Your done!

Hope you have a lot of luck...

	Cowabunga Dude,
		Charlie Mercier
		mowgli@sparko.seas.gwu.edu
ps: the season is already here: Killington opens the Mt. on Nov 10!!!

"Why ski on two boards when you can do it on one?" 
				"Jake Burton" (I think)