HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: manna@alnitak.usc.edu (Luigi Manna)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Question on EOS 10S and ELAN
Date: 14 Apr 1992 23:30:48 -0700
Organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: alnitak.usc.edu

In article <74065@netnews.upenn.edu> leet@eniac.seas.upenn.edu (Tzu-en Lee) writes:
>I am considering to buy either a Canon EOS 10S or a Canon EOS ELAN.  For some
>reason, I got the impression that 10S is a more advanced camera than ELAN, yet
>the price difference (NYC mail order, body only) is minimal.  Why is this the
>case?  Is my impression incorrect, or does ELAN carry some special features? 
>Any suggestion or advice about these two cameras?
>

  I think both complement each other rather than one being better 
than the other. I have a 10s bought before the Elan came out and
I'm very pleased with it. Now which are these differences and how they 
complement ? Here is what I can recollect from the top of my 
head.

- The 10s has a faster motor 5fps against 3fps of Elan ( however this 
  might be viewed  as an advantage for the Elan since 5fps can be 
  too fast for some slow moving actions i.e. you get many pictures that
  look alike ).

- The 10s has 5 or 6 more Custom Functions among them the useful
  leave-the-film-leader in or out.

- The Elan has a better overall Exp Compensation mechanism similar
  to the one of the EOS-1 which to me has no parallel among any SLR.

- The Elan flash is overall much better than the 10s though i won't
  consider any of them for any seriouss flash work ( get the 430EZ 
  for this purpose ). The differences are in red-eye-reduction 
  and zoom-head for different focal lengths in the Elan; none
  of them available on the 10s

- The Elan can retain up to 5 bar-code programs against 1 on the 10s

- The Elan is considerably less noisy though I wouldn't be so confident 
  about the  belts durability.

- The Elan has center-weighted ( not present in the 10s ) and a 
  "slimer" partial meter though its matrix metering is less
  sofisticated than the 10s i.e. 6 segments against 8 on the 10s.
  The 10s multi-segment meter takes in consideration camera orientation 
  something I think not even present in the EOS-1.

- The 10s has 3 focusing marks against 1 on the Elan ( though I 
  haven't found this feature as useful as Canon claimes to be).

  If I were you I would go for the Elan though I'll be a bit 
worried about the belts durability. They are both great cameras
and you should be pleased with any of them. Choose the one that
best fits your needs and your picture taking techniques.

>Also, any suggestion on a good reliable mail order store?
>

B&H mailed me the 430EZ with little hassle and Adorama mailed
me the EOS-10s as well as a bogen tripod with little delays.
Both are good stores though the Adorama people are a bit more
polite ( to me at least ).


>Thanks in advance.
>
>Alex Lee
>Axle the Coop


Hope it helps,

Luigi Manna--
manna@usc.edu
Los Angeles, California.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: usenet@adobe.com (USENET NEWS)
Subject: Re: Tamron 35-105 F2.8 AF
Originator: asanders@sparta
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1992 16:51:35 GMT

| The word "continuous" needs clarification.  This could be
| misinterpreted to mean that it reads out in real numbers with some
| reasonable precision. In fact, the 8008 (and I assume the 8008s)
| rounds to the nearest whole f stop.
					-David Jacobson

My N8008s DOES read out the effective aperture in real numbers.
My aperture readings can be 3.2, 3.8, 4.2, ... Not confined to
whole f/stops at all. I've never owned an N8008, but I assume
it works the same way.
			-Alan


Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: sll2@cec2.wustl.edu (Sandra L. Licklider)
Subject: Backpacking Tripod
Organization: Washington University, St. Louis Mo.
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 16:27:03 GMT

I am going to be spending several months in Denali Park, Alaska
and am looking for a lightweight tripod to take backpacking.

Any suggestions?

Has anyone ever used the "ultra pod" sold by Campmor?  

E-mail or post answers.  Thanks!


Sandy L. /Washington University - St. Louis/ sll2@cec2.wustl.edu
"What I love most about deadlines is the whooshing sound
they make as they go by."  Douglas Adams
From: usenet@adobe.com (USENET NEWS)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: US warranties
Date: 16 Apr 92 21:55:06 GMT
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Originator: asanders@sparta

| I was given to understand that, at least with cameras, that
| extra money for a US warranty we invalid.  When I purchased
| my camera from CWoO, I asked them specifically about it and 
| they told me that it comes with the camera automatically.  

						-Rick

Camera World of Oregon does not carry gray market goods.
That's why they don't charge extra for the U.S. warranty.
If you read the ads carefully, it's clear that most mail order
dealers carry gray market merchandise, and their advertised
prices usually do not include a U.S. warranty unless explicitly
stated. There is nothing illegal about this approach, but
many camera makers (Nikon, for one) will not honor the so-
called "international warranty" sometimes sold with gray
market equipment. In many cases, the only warranty available
with such goods is a "store warranty", which may be of dubious
value, especially with complex electronic equipment. Nikon
claims, for example, that no independent repair facility
has the computers necessary for certain repairs to the N6006,
N8008(s) and F4 cameras.
			    -Alan
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: ong@a.cs.okstate.edu (ONG ENG TENG)
Subject: Re: Sigma 400 5.6 APO thoughts (B&H too) 
Organization: Oklahoma State University
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 92 01:25:36 GMT

From article <1992Apr10.170213.18496@unlinfo.unl.edu>, by kting@cse.unl.edu (Kea Ting):
>      The sigma 400mm f5.6 AF lens work fine on my minolta 7000i. It focus
> every time when I want to focus on somthing. The reason why the lens does not
> work on the Nikon F4, I don't know why. It should, because the F4 is Nikon
> top of the line Af camera.  I guess the possibility of defective camera is
> pretty high. 

I finally went out and bought a brand new 80-200/2.8 ED AF Nikkor and it works
excellent with the F4s, zipping to focus in split second even in dimly-lite
room.  So I guess the Sigma is the problem, like I first suggested.  It 
could just be that my Sigma is of earlier version even though it is APO. 

On a slightly related note, my order to B&H for a Sigma 180/5.6 micro APO
is now 12 days old w/o delivery, despite the fact that salesman John saying
that it will be here in a week.  I guess my previous experiences with NYC
shops are not unique (Cambridge 3 months, Spiratone 4 months), hopefully
this time it would not take months.
From: lc0v+@andrew.cmu.edu (Luis Abdon Cifuentes)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re:SIGMA 400mm f5.6 APO Lense?????
Date: 9 Apr 92 19:08:56 GMT
Organization: Doctoral student, Engineering and Public Policy, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA


I am also interested in the Sigma 400 APO, specially on how it compares
with the non-APO version ($100 less!).

Last issue of Popular Photography had the 400 APO tested. The results
were not so great (in my opinion). I don't know how much faith should
you put in such tests, but it would be interesting to compare them with
the results for other lenses (have they tested the Nikkor 400/4.5 for
example?)

Much more interesting would be to hear the comments of people that have
actually used the lens. Where are they?

Luis
From: tonya@hpldsla.sid.hp.com (Tony Arnerich)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Re: schlock (was amateur film processing)
Date: 14 Apr 92 19:15:03 GMT
Organization: HP Scientific Instruments Division - Palo Alto, CA

In rec.photo, ark@alice.att.com (Andrew Koenig) writes:

>  In article <3830228@hpldsla.sid.hp.com> tonya@hpldsla.sid.hp.com (Tony Arnerich) writes:
>  > Opinion Mode ON: When you look at all the hassles you get at the schlock
>  > outfits for a measly few percent off the money price, you realize how much you
>  > pay in stress, time, and inconvenience.

>  Not all the mail-order discounters are schlock.

I did not intend to say that all stores priced lower than Calumet are
schlocky. 

I meant that the schlocky stores are priced lower than Calumet. I am
sorry if there was any confusion on this point.

BTW, even over-the-counter discounters can be schlocky (mail order
per se is not the issue).

tonya@hpldsla.sid.hp.com
From: tonya@hpldsla.sid.hp.com (Tony Arnerich)
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1992 19:15:06 GMT
Subject: Re: Re: Amateur film processing (NOW tabletop procs).
Organization: HP Scientific Instruments Division - Palo Alto, CA
Newsgroups: rec.photo

In rec.photo, sch@gargoyle.unx.sas.com (Steve Holzworth) writes:

>  Minor bitches:

>  The drive gears are all plastic (nylon?). The final roller pair in each
>  tank is composed of soft, sticky rubber. After the tank has sat a few days
>  (hours?) without use, the rollers stick together. The manual DOES warn
>  you about this, and suggests you "break out" the rollers when you next
>  prepare to use the unit. Of course, I didn't think it would be THAT
>  important (sigh). The second time I used my unit, I broke two drive gears.
>  (The rollers stick REAL GOOD!). Theoretically, this isn't covered by the
>  warranty, but they sent me new gears anyway. Cost of repair WOULD have
>  been about $7.00, so it's still not bad. (They also suggest you cycle
>  a sheet of plastic wrap between the gears to help prevent sticking.)

>  I have had ONE misfeed, which also resulted in a gear break. The paper
>  fed back on itself at about the second roller pair. This all takes place
>  in a light-tight box, so the first you know about it is when the gears
>  make this awful ratcheting sound :-). This isn't covered under warranty
>  either, so I had to pay for this one ($6.25).

It sounds as if the mechanical designers forgot to put in a torque-limiting
clutch into the gear train. The Printo was smart enough to invent one (one-
time use only), in the form of stripping teeth. Who knows what horrible
damage would have occurred if the gears were made of 316 stainless! Maybe
Durst ought to take a look at the $25 robot arm toy that Radio Shack used to
sell, which had overload clutches on all 6 axes of motion: zero damage at the
motion limits. Since Durst has been so good to you so far, maybe they'll
respond positively to some constructive criticism.

>  I have had good luck with Calumet over the years; they are worth a slightly
>  higher price.

Ditto. Calumet is a damn good store: honest, quick, excellent stock, excellent
advice and service.

Opinion Mode ON: When you look at all the hassles you get at the schlock
outfits for a measly few percent off the money price, you realize how much you
pay in stress, time, and inconvenience. Perhaps Calumet is as good as they are
because most of their customers just don't have the time to put up with any
nonsense.

Tony Arnerich
tonya@hpldsla.sid.hp.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: swansond@nextnet.csus.edu (Dennis Swanson)
Subject: Ektar 1000 Processing (was Re: HELP! Bluish tint on color prints)
Organization: California State University: Sacramento
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1992 06:01:42 GMT

In article <BEAR.92Apr8183935@godzilla.harlqn.co.uk> bear@harlqn.co.uk (Andy Edwards) writes:
>[...]
>Yeah, you can get funny effects with developing processes. I sent an
>Ektar 1000 film through C41 process by accident, every print came out
>in a slightly sepia brown wash. The greens came through - very odd.
>
>+--: Andy Edwards :----------*=================*------------------------------+

Huh? Ektar 1000 is not C41? What planet have I been living on? Do the other
Ektars also require some other non-standard (for color negs) processing?

	Den

-- 
Dennis M. Swanson      aka "Night Hacker"       INTERNET: swansond@csus.edu
\  "Don't be glad when your enemy meets disaster, and don't rejoice when  /
 ) he stumbles.  The Lord will know if you are gloating, and he will not (
/  like it; and then maybe he won't punish him."  8^)  Proverbs 24:17,18  \
From: schulz@darmstadt.gmd.de (Guenter F. Schulz)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: GREAT MAIL ORDER SERVICE
Date: 6 Apr 92 08:27:19 GMT

In <1992Apr1.104117.5481@bsu-ucs.uucp> 00dklyon@bsu-ucs.uucp writes:


>I HAVE ORDERED A PENTAX SF10 AND A PENTAX SF1N FROM
>CAMERA WORLD OF OREGON AND I HAVE BEEN COMPLETELY PLEASED
[...]

Why are you shouting like that? We can hear you anyway... :-)

/Guenter
From: madson@unix.SRI.COM (Carl Madson)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Nikon F3HP 'System' For Sale (F3HP/MD-4/SB-17/etc.)
Date: 6 Apr 92 20:21:26 GMT
Distribution: rec.photo
Organization: SRI International, Menlo Park, California


I have an F3HP and accessories that haven't seen much use lately and would like
to see if someone's looking for a full package such as this:

	F3HP, exc.+ condition, w/eyecup, body cap and battery, $625
	MD-4, exc. condition, w/caps for connectors, $255
	SB-17 TTL flash, F3 shoe, with diffuser, $95
	SC-14 TTL remote flash cord, F3 shoe, for SB-17, $25
	AH-2 baseplate adapter for MD-4 (centers the tripod hole), $10

I'd consider selling the set for $950; there's some negotiating space here but
I'm not desperate to sell. Since it's the oldest of three Nikons, it's been
spending too much time up on the shelf and could be doing more for someone
else. Everything is in nice shape, although the AH-2 is predictably dinged up
and the SC-14 shows definite wear. The flash has TTL, auto and manual modes,
with a 180 pivoting head (flips from side to side) along with a 90 tilting
flash head. It can also be used as a second TTL flash with an SB-24 or equiv.
using an SC-18/19 flash extension cord.

Flames regarding price will honestly be ignored. Reasonable inputs appreciated.


		--Carl Madson, SRI International, Menlo Park, CA
From: ong@a.cs.okstate.edu (ONG ENG TENG)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: F4s, more question
Date: 9 Apr 92 01:24:30 GMT
Organization: Oklahoma State University

Thanks again to all who replied to my questions regarding the F4s and 8008.

My F4s finally came in this afternoon.  No kidding, this baby is H.E.A.V.Y,
even for me (6' 190lbs)!  I wanted F4s for it full-size (like a FM2 w/MD12)
as opposed to a N8008, but also mainly for its ability to do matrix metering
with manual lenses.  But now I am beginning to think that I should have
gotten the N8008.

That 5.7fps F4s MD is fast!  Seems more like a movie camera than a still
camera.  And what's that silence mode?  Sounded like the MD has loose 
rubberband.  I have problem trying to remove the batteries in the horizontal
position, can anybody point the way?

Love that LCD viewfinder cab light!  First camera I have that does that.  
And the stay-on-for-20-second-after-release-is-pressed is just the correct 
length of time.  30 seoncds is too long while 15 is sometimes too short. 
And of course those buttons are all in the right places.  I assume the
R1 and R2 are for rewind.  Anybody know how to do double-exposure?

The only AF lens I have right now is a used Sigma 400/5.6 APO.  Guess what?
It is a, no, no.  I think Nikon specified that at least a 4.0 aperture
is needed for AF.  Well, since Sigma has a few 5.6 lens for Nikon AF,
I thought maybe Nikon was just being picky.  I tried and 80% of the time
the camera viewfinder displayed a X symbol which I think is the 
you-don't-have-enough-light-for-AF symbol.  And this was in bright daylight.
Imagine how the Sigma 1000/8 APO AF will work! (Nikon said it needs 5.6
for electronic focus assist)

Luckily I ordered the 180/5.6 APO primarily for micro.  I thought I could 
use it as a mid-range tele for a while, but now I think I am going to get 
the 80-200/2.8 Nikkor AF this weekend instead of waiting for a few weeks.  
Stay away from 5.6-or-greater AF lenses!  Gee, that means the only thing
greater than 300mm is the 600/4 AF ED Nikkor.
From: SETTLE@LSTC2VM.stortek.com (Jeff Settle)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: mechanical cameras
Date: 8 Apr 92 21:45:10 GMT
Article-I.D.: LSTC2VM.167C3DD92.SETTLE
Organization: StorageTek SW Engineering

In article <6455@shodha.enet.dec.com>
j_feldman@blkice.enet.dec.com ( ) writes:
 
 
>B2.  I'm sure someone will correct me, but I think the only all mechancial
>(except the meter) 35mm SLR camera left in production, is the Pentax K1000.
>
>jimf
>
 
The Nikon FM2N is a currently production all mechanical camera.
It is not cheap but gets into a line that seems concerned with
backward compatibility.
 
Jeff
Newsgroups: rec.photo

tjl@cbnews.cb.att.com (timothy.j.lipetz) writes:
> 
> There was some discussion recently about rectilinear
> fisheye lenses.  Could someone please give more
> explanation of how pictures made with them would look?
> 
> I have considered getting the Mamiya 24mm lens for my
> 645S.  Mostly, what I would like to do is use the center
> horizontal portion of the negative for panorama shots.
> Maybe use a 24 x 56 mm section, which is what a
> Widelux negative would be.  Used this way both the
> Mamiya and Widelux would cover about 140 degrees
> horizontally.  How would the two images compare?

I am not an expert on the Widelux cameras, but the way they work is quite
different than the way a fisheye lens works on an SLR. The Widelux uses 
some sort of swinging lens arrangement, and the film is curved during 
exposure. One effect of this arrangment is that if one photographs, for 
instance, a straight street running diagonally across the image, it will 
appear to be curved. The latest Shutterbug has an example of this in a report
on the Widelux F8.

Whereas, when shot with a carefully leveled rectilinear fisheye, the same
street would appear straight.

There is a really excellent book by Joseph Meehan, titled
_Panoramic_Photography_, that does a great job explaining the mechanics of
all the different types of cameras and has lots of photos demonstrating how
results will differ between them (including cropping to a panaromic
aspect ratio). I think you'd find this book very useful in making your
decision!

Standard disclaimers apply!


    %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
    % Andy Cassino                                       %
    % Hewlett-Packard - Lake Stevens Instrument Division %
    %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
From: kjm@cnmss.tredydev.unisys.com (Ken J. McFadden)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Makeup and Studio Flash
Date: 14 Apr 92 17:00:53 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Unisys Corporation, Tredyffrin

In pictures that I've taken with studio flash, I've noticed that women
wearing makeup have a pink color cast to their skin.  Of course the pictures
can be balanced for the right skin tone.  But when I have pictures with both
men and women in them, the men (not wearing makeup) have good skin tones, but
the women turn out too pink.

I have heard of wedding gowns that have special whitening dyes that turn up
weird colors (like purple, green, blue) when shot with flash.  Kind of silly
of the dress makers to do this, don't they expect wedding dresses to be
photographed with flash?  ANYWAY, I think the effect has something to due
with UV light from the flash.

Now, what I'm wondering is could this makeup/flash combination be doing
the same sort of thing?  UV effecting some sort of strange dye in the
makeup?  Maybe makeup is just naturally pink and it just turns out looking
even more pink under soft/diffuse lighting conditions?

Now assuming my wild speculation might be correct, is there any special
type of makeup that isn't effected?  Or maybe only certain brands should be
used (or avoided)?

By the way, I usually shoot Kodachrome and print on low contrast cibachrome.
I know this is not the best combination for studio/people stuff, but that's
not what I usually shoot anyway.  The pink cast shows up on the slides (not
just the prints).  Maybe something out of a green box might handle makeup
better?

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ken McFadden        kjm@cnmss.tredydev.unisys.com
Unisys Corporation  kjm@cnmsa.tredydev.unisys.com
P.O. Box 203        work: (215) 648-3742
Paoli, PA 19301     home: (215) 675-0382
From: astro@iris1.oceanroutes.ns.ca (ASTRO)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Which meter reading to take?
Date: 8 Apr 92 02:10:23 GMT
Organization: NSTN Network Operations Centre, Nova Scotia, Canada

az1@ukc.ac.uk (A.Zafar) writes:


>	I plan to take some portraits of some friends. I have a little
>question regarding which exposure meter reading should I consider. 

>1) The person is standing in the sun with the sun back lighting the model. I
>take the spot meter reading of the face and put in a small amount of fill
>flash.

>2) Here instead of the meter reading off the face I take the reading of the
>grey card held by the model. Assuming that the light falling on the grey card
>is the same as that falling on the model.

>	Now if the model is very fair, there will be atleast one stop
>difference between the two reading. So which one should I use if I want the
>perfect exposure. Thanks a lot in advance to all those who respond.

Your meter is giving you an 18% reading whatever you point it at.  The
difference between the grey card reading and the face reading represents
the reflective difference and indicates that you subject's face will come
out one stop brighter than neutral grey if you use the grey card reading.

Then it becomes a matter of how you want to render the subject.  Are you using
color or black and white film?? In color film you want the skin tones
to be as accurate as possible (and maybe a bit on the warm side) as you
are dealing with COLOR rather than strictly tonal contrast.  On the other hand,
in b&w you are ONLY dealing with tone, so an important consideration is
the tonal values of the background.  IN that case, you may have to introdu
contrast control filter to differentiate the values.

At any rate, if the subject is fair, and the sky is blue, and you have a 
polarizer, you can meter for the grey card, which will give you a pale face, and polarize the sky to give you colour contrast (the subject has to be at
90 degrees to the sun for maximum effect and less for more moderate polarizationbut not directly in front of or behind the sun for a polarizer to work).

Don't forget to factor in the exposure increase required with your
polarizer, if you use it (usually 1.5 to 2.5 stops)

If you are at an angle to the sun, you will need fill flash to soften shadows.
If you are in shade, or it is an overcast day you may not.

In any event, bracket your exposures in half stop increments on both
sides of the median value, and something should come out ok.

Now, are you more confused than ever???

The best thing to do is drag a friend out on day and go through a whole range oftrials to LEARN first hand what works.  ONce you have done it successfully, you
wil remember....

brian
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jchen@ftrooper.NoSubdomain.NoDomain (Jason Chen)
Subject: Re: B & H and Camera World of Oregon
Reply-To: jchen@ctt.bellcore.com
Organization: Bell Communications Research
Distribution: world,local
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 92 13:34:15 GMT

In article <1992Apr16.042629.7257@unlinfo.unl.edu>, kting@cse.unl.edu (Kea Ting) writes:
|> ong@a.cs.okstate.edu (ONG ENG TENG) writes:
|> 
|> 
|> >I called CWoO today to order a Sigma 21-35 for my Nikon F4s.  The guy simply
|> >said "Not in stock, bye!" and hang up, all in one breathe.  At least he is
|> >honest.  I got a funny feeling that he was expecting my call.  Now which of 
|> >you squealed on me? 
|> 
|>      Ya, I agree some of then is very rude. 

Ask for "Bruce" or "Dave" when you order from CWO. And avoid "Rick" who 
was impatient for questions.

-- 

C. Jason Chen                 
**************E-Mail: jchen@ctt.bellcore.com
**************V-Mail: (908)699-6993
**************P-Mail: 444 Hoes Lane, 1E229, Piscataway, NJ
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: beatle@sentry.larc.nasa.gov (Teresa Nicholls)
Subject: Re: Flash meters?
Organization: NASA/Langley Research Center, Hampton, VA
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 12:47:08 GMT


Speaking of flash meters and any meter, does anyone have any recommendations
for one? I have seen a friend's Minolta Spot V I believe, wonderful - measures
flash and spot, is there any others that are just as good?

Teresa