HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jamaro@dante.nmsu.edu (AMARO)
Subject: [M] Moray Eels
Organization: New Mexico State University
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 18:33:40 GMT

[ Article crossposted from sci.aquaria ]
[ Author was AMARO ]
[ Posted on Mon, 25 Jan 1993 18:31:43 GMT ]

Hi All 
	I have a few questions about Marine Eels.  Any Help would be great!
At the present I have a 29 gallon salt tank with 4 damsel ( blue reef) the damsel are cycling the tank.  I will sell these fish back to my dealer once all my 
nitrates are in check. Here come the questions

	1.I realize I will need to stick to small species but which ones
	 will do the best in my tank?

	2.Will they eat feeder goldfish?

	3.What types of fish will I not be able to keep w/ a Eel?

	4.Does anybody know of a book I can buy to help me keep 
	 my eel happy?

	5.Is there anything I should know about before I buy an Eel
	 Please be honest.

I have a Biologic 402 on my tank and things seem to be going great so far.  
temp will be held between 78-80 degrees.
After I sell my damsels back I would like to buy a anemone and a percula 
clown, Will the clown be O.K..  

Any help would be great!! 
Please help!
Thanks
Jason J. Amaro
________________________________________________________________________________

Fight Racism 
________________________________________________________________________________:w
:q

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: cjwhite@IASTATE.EDU (Carter J White)
Subject: Re: Adding a new fish
Reply-To: cjwhite@IASTATE.EDU (Carter J White)
Organization: Iowa State University
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 16:43:24 GMT

In article <1993Jan20.193229.13871@bsu-ucs>, 01mbmccabe@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu
writes:
> Why does it seem a lot of people here replace the "E" in Pleco with an
> asterisk?
> 
> 				-Matt



	As a mostly lurking fishnet person I must reply to this post and save the lives
of pl*cos everywhere.


	For those who do not know about the pl*co curse on the *.aquaria network it
goes kind of like this.

	You know that lovely X-mas movie It's a Wonderful Life and that stupid little
kid thaty says something to the effect," Daddy, Is it true that when a bell
rings an angle gets its wings???"  and in brainless reply he says, "Of Course
Dear."  ( Hack, gag, sputter, yuk.....)

	WELL, The fishnet Pl*co Curse is the same.  Whenever, Pl*co,Pl*coscopus, etc..
is posted with the 'e' a pl*co dies a hideus death.

	Ex. (THIS IS A TRUE STORY, IT WAS IN THE STAR)

		The word pl*co was posted inocently on the fishnet regarding its breeding and
diet.  Within 24 Hours of the posting a beutiful 12 inch fish of the same type
was found mysteriusly sucked up into an intake tube on a Fluval 303.

	Ex #2.  Once after the word pl*coscopus was posted a tuely tragic incedent
occured.  Two mature breading pair of the said fish suddenly came down with some
unknown sickness, not in anyway affecting the beautiful discus also in the tank.
Despite the efforts of the aquarist, the fish died with in 24 hours of the
post.


	This is about all I know about this dreaded and hated curse.  Perhaps one of
the fish gurus out there knows the reason for the curse.  But PLEASE, I BEG YOU,
FOR THE SAKE OF YOUR POOR FISH, make the effort and DO NOT put the 'e' in
pl*co.

	
	CW
From: howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [F] More Info Cloudy Water
Date: 21 Jan 1993 15:02:21 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division
Distribution: na
NNTP-Posting-Host: hplsdum.col.hp.com

srrapp@bb1t.monsanto.com writes:
> In article <1jehtaINN278@hp-col.col.hp.com>, howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel) writes:
> > Water change do little to prevent the water from going green.  If anything
> > the infusion of new minerals tend to encourage it.
> > 
> > To get rid of the green water try letting algae grow on the back and sides
> > of the tank.  Remove any fish that clean the glass.
> > 
> >... filter stuff axed
> > -- 
> > Howard Rebel hpcsos.col.hp.com 
> Green water can only be completely removed by using a diatom filter (Magnum or
> Vortex) with multiple changes of diatomaceous earth.  Letting it run overnight
> following succesive changes will yield completely clear water.  I dont know why
> this happens but I have seen 1 tank get green water where the 1 next to it is
> fine.

To prevent green water from forming you need to remove the cause as I
indicated above.  Filtering the algae out of the water will not prevent
it from coming back if you do not remove the cause.
-- 
Howard Rebel hpcsos.col.hp.com 

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: johnh@tigger.rl.af.mil (John Hawthorne)
Subject: Re: [M] marine beginner questions
Organization: Rome Laboratory, Network Design Facility
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 16:25:22 GMT

In article <1993Jan20.020816.24191@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Paul A Prior) writes:
>In article <1993Jan19.201756.22122@cs.cornell.edu> chapman@cs.cornell.edu (Richard Chapman) writes:
>
>>microorganisms.  I have been feeding the fish  frozen brine shrimp, 5
>>"pieces" twice a day, and it eats all of that fairly instantly (showed
>
>Also, 5 pieces of brine BID sounds like too much for a new tank.  Cut
>that in half.

Gee Doc, I'll agree that it sounds like too much for a new tank, but
wouldn't the correct dosage depend on the size of a "piece"?  If one
small clown eats 5 pieces "fairly instantly", then they must be small
pieces. :-)

Not trying to imply that your prescribed dose is too small -- I think
fish in a new tank that is cycling should be fed almost nothing to
start, gradually increasing only after ammonia level starts to drop.
(and cutting back to nothing anytime fish show signs of stress)

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: privette@pippin.colorado.edu (Jeff Privette)
Subject: [M] cleaning coral for tank use
Organization: Colorado Center for Astrodynamics Research
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 01:25:42 GMT

Hi,

I friend recently gave me a piece of coral retrieved from
a reef in Mexico.  It evidently had been laying around the
house for some time, but was intended for her aquarium and
so was not broken, put out for display, excessively touched, etc.

It has some dust, dirt and some cat hair on it.  What would
be the best way to clean/sterilize it before putting it into
my tank (20 gal, 2 clowns and a coral beauty, rampant cholerpa)?
A friend suggested soaking it in a Chlorox solution overnight,
followed by soaking and rinsing it in fresh water.  Is this standard,
or are there other/better methods?  Is this a big risk putting
it into my tank anyway? 

Thanks  !

-Jeff
privette@frodo.colorado.edu
From: rk3f+@andrew.cmu.edu (Rossos J. Kladakis)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: hurt fish
Date: 21 Jan 93 19:15:26 GMT
Article-I.D.: andrew.wfLs=iO00WBM89O0Ya
Organization: Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA

I have two piranhas and one hurt himself on a piece of slate.  He has a
good size gash on his tail.  Is there anything I can do to help him
recover quickly and safely.  Any help would be appreciated. 

Thanks
Ross
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: durie@fitz.TC.Cornell.EDU (Bob Durie)
Subject: [M] Sick Lipstick Tang
Organization: Cornell Theory Center
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 15:36:42 GMT

We have had a 6" lipstick tang for several months now and she has been
doing very well-- eating heartily.  There is a lot of algae in the tank
which she enjoyed very much, supplemented with flakes.  About 3 weeks
ago we noticed she had some bulges in her stomach, and later she passed
some bits of crushed coral she must have sucked in with some algae.
About a week after that, after being perfectly fine, we noticed a
distinct indentation in her side one morning.   We watched her for
several days and she stayed the same, but she had lost most of her
appetite.  After scouring the books, we determined it might be
tuberculosis, and put her in a hospital tank and started treatment.
She's been there for a week now, and hasn't been eating anything.  The
indentation is still there-- right over her vent.  I'm now wondering if
she isn't sick at all, but rather one of the bits of crushed coral got
stuck in her intestines.  If this is the case, is there anything I can
do-- I'm desperate!


Bob

-- 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Bob Durie               | 389 Theory Center, Electrical Engineering,   |
| bobd@ee.cornell.edu     | Cornell University, Ithaca NY 14853.         |
| bobd@crnlee.bitnet      | Phone: (607) 255 0302 |  Fax: (607) 254 4565 |
From: jkrause@cse.unl.edu (joseph krause)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: algea removal from H20
Date: 22 Jan 1993 21:23:08 GMT
Organization: University of Nebraska--Lincoln	
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: cse.unl.edu
Summary: it cleans out green from water purty good

     If you have a power filter with a place to put a paper towel that will let
water run threw the towel( you can use coffie filters too).  Try puting one in
and if your water is green with algea, after a couple of hrs the paper towel 
will be green, take it out and put in another until you tank is clear again.
This method works for me, if it fails, mail me what you did, and I will try to
help you correct whatever.

   You can also buy an expensive diatomacios earth filter, but as for me, I 
don't have that much money.

(green water expert)
jkk

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: fester@island.COM (Mike Fester)
Subject: Re: [F] Aqua-scaping - any Ideas?
Organization: /usr/local/rn/organization
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 17:17:18 GMT

In article <C18GG6.9y7@mentor.cc.purdue.edu> thompssp@expert.cc.purdue.edu (Steven P. Thompson) writes:
>In article <1993Jan21.155545.24669@mprgate.mpr.ca> csmith@mpr.ca (Cameron Smith) writes:
>>
>>I am attempting to aqua-scape my recently established aquarium.  I have a
>>10 gallon (20" X 10") tank, UGF.  It is currently populated with 2 Bettas
>>(male and female), 1 dwarf butterfly cichlid, and a pleco, and am planning
>>to add some tetras (neon or cardinal, blue (blueberry?) or more SA dwarf
>>cichlids, or maybe a blue gourami!  As far as plants go I have a Cabomba 
>>carolineaus (sp?) in the front left corner, and a water fern (Ceratopterious 
>>thalitrodies (sp?)) in the back right corner.  I thought that I would like 
>>to place more plants along the left side and across the back.
>>
>>I thought an Amazon sword might look good in the back center, but don't
>>really know what else to plant!  Any suggestions?
>>
>     Is it just me, or does this sound like A LOT of stuff for a 10 gallon
>tank???


Actually, I have noticed I can keep an awful lot of fish in a small tank if 
there are lots of places for the fish to stake out as their own territory, and
plants certainly help there. I had at one time about 30 fish plus two newts in 
a 25 gallon tank that was 3/4 filled (I used my Aquaclear to make a little
'waterfall') with an area for the newts to climb out of the water. LOTS of
plants, some rocks and "logs". I had a male betta, about 10 cardinals, 4 glass
cats, 4 marble hatchets, 4 kuhli's, 1 pleco, 2 cats, a clown loach, red-tail
shark, a couple shrimp, and a bumblebee fish. All lived quite well for over 2
years. After that, I moved to Japan and sold the tank.

>>Also, I would like to know of any short (say, less than 10 cm [4"] in
>>height) that I could plant (sparsly) in the center to front.

I forget the name of it, but there is a very small, dark green plant that 
will grow slowly but quite well. Strictly speaking, it is not aquatic, but
will grow quite well underwater. Sends out shoots laterally and will eventually
take over most of your foreground. I'll post the scientific name, if I can 
find it.

Mike
-- 
Disclaimer - These opinions are not so much opinions, as pearls of wisdom. Any-
one disagreeing is obviously either a) a snivelling, whining, mentally-
deficient, weak-willed, inconsequential, namby-pamby tool of some vague but
conveniently defined conspiracy, or b) my wife.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: cburns@ucs.indiana.edu (Chris Burns)
Subject: Re: Help me identify a fish
Followup-To: rec.aquaria
Organization: Indiana University
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 16:20:44 GMT

In article <1993Jan27.121157.28302@cbfsb.cb.att.com>,
sonny@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (joseph.j.de rosa) wrote:

> 
> I bought 4 green "somethings" and a catfish-like thingy.

Before buying a new fish, you should (at least) ask what it is.

>What kind of conditions would be best?

You're descriptions lend no clue as to what you bought, thus recommending
conditions is out of the question.  Again, if you're buying fish from a
(half-decent) store, they should be able to tell you about appropriate
conditions for keeping the fish.

>I'm not sure of the names of the fish, but I'd know it if I saw it. 

If you need to identify a fish, the thing to do is go look in a BOOK.  You
know what the fish look like, no one else does.  If you're still having
trouble, then post a lot of descriptive info about the fish and maybe
someone will be able to help.
 
Chris
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: rloyd@mksol.dseg.ti.com (robert e loyd)
Subject: [F] Cloudy Green Water
Organization: Texas Instruments
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 14:19:38 GMT

   Sorry, but I didn't save any of the suggestions for
the Cloudy Green water problem.  My brother is having this
problem in a 30 gal. hex tank that has a few amazon sword
plants and about 12 various tetra fish.  He recently changed
out his gravel with some very small gravel and  was concerned
about how much the smaller gravel affected operation of his
under gravel filter.

Thanks
Rob   

-- 
Robert Loyd                                     | Texas Instruments |
Internet:    (loyd@ap040.dseg.ti.com)           |   Dallas, Texas   |
Int. alt:   (rloyd@mksol.dseg.ti.com)           |   214-480-4609    |
From: dxf6@po.CWRU.Edu (Dean Fear)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [F] Discus Question
Date: 25 Jan 1993 15:24:31 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: dxf6@po.CWRU.Edu (Dean Fear)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, jo14@cornell.edu (John Opsomer) says:

>In article <1993Jan23.043556.20141@Princeton.EDU> Aaron Stanley Madsen,
>asmadsen@phoenix.Princeton.EDU writes:
>>I'm curious as to how long it takes for one of
>>these guys to achieve full size.  When I got 
>>"Moses" about 3 months ago, he was maybe 3 inches,
>>and now he's coming up on 4.  All of my references
>>list 6 to 7 inches as full grown, which should be
>>fine for my 20 gallon tank - I'm just curious
>>when, as I have a few other fish in there now

I think it takes almost a year or so to reach full size and about 18 mo to
become sexually mature.  However, as mentioned below their grawth can be
stunted.

>>and it's going to get too crowded for my taste. 
>>(I need an excuse to get a bigger tank, anyway.)
>>
>>Also out of curiousity, has anyone gotten their
>>discus to eat TetraBits?  Maybe I'm too generous
>>with the frozen food...
>
>That last comment is very surprizing!  TetraBits is my discus' favorite
>food (except for live food, of course...) and the few other discus
>keepers in my area report the same observation.  I guess that you will
>have to get him used to it gradually, mixing it in with other stuff.

My Discus also like Tetra Bits, but prefer Jack Wattley's Discus Formula.


>
>As for the size issue: not all discus reach 6-7 inches (unfortunately),
>because of crowding and/or underfeeding.  In fact, discus eat like
>(little) pigs, and if you really want to grow a nice discus, I'd
>recommend feeding him 3-4 times/day as much as he can eat, and do at
>least one 25-30% water change every week, preferably more often.

I change my water everyday as recommended by the breeder.  He suggested at
minimum to do 3-4 massive water changes each week to promote growth. (see
my recent posting on Discus Care)  These daily water changes are also
necessitated by feeding them often and a lot as suggested above.

>
>A last remark: discus are much happier in a group when they are little,
>and at least in a pair when they are older.  So if you're going to invest
>in a bigger tank, you might want to get him a few friends also.  At
>first, it will most likely seem as if your discus will pick on the other
>ones, but that will stop as soon as they have decided "who is the boss".
>
>John Opsomer
>
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: colt@vaxeline.ftp.com (Colt Forsythe)
Subject: Re: Cloudy Water
Organization: FTP Software, Inc., Wakefield, MA
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 17:07:20 GMT
From: oleg@Veritas.COM (Oleg Kiselev)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: breeding Dwarf Gouramies
Date: 26 Jan 93 04:34:35 GMT
Reply-To: oleg@veritas.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Killifish Farm on the Hill

brucehuy@u.washington.edu writes:
>Also one more question, does anybody out there know anything about breeding
>Dwarf Gouramies?  I can't seem to find any specific information on the matter.

Try Ines Scheurmann's book "Aquarium Fish Breeding" published by Barron's.

In brief: 
Put a male and 1 or more females in a 15-20 gal aquarium (or larger if
possible; in a 10 gal tank the male might kill the females).  Use a
tank with as much surface area as you can find (i.e. tall tanks are not
recommended).  Stock the tank with a lot of plants for the female(s) to
hide in.  Floating plants are of great benefit because they make it
easeier for the male to keep his bubble nest intact.  Water sprite in
particular is a great plant for this.  Use filtration that does not
create strong surface currents.

Feed the fish a diet heavy on live foods (brine shrimp, mosquito
larvae, etc.) and keep the water warm.  Eventually the male starts
building his bubble nest and the females that are ready to spawn
approach the nest.  The spawning takes place in an embrace
characteristic of the gouramies in general.  An egg is released and
fertilized.  At this point the male catches the egg in his mough and
spits it into the nest, adding a few more bubbles for a good measure.
If the female is still hanging around, the male will attack her to
drive her away.  In a few minutes the female comes back to spawn
again.  This goes on for many hours.

When the fry hatch in a few days and are free-swimming, remove them or
the male into another tank.  Feed the fry infusoria at first, then baby
brine shrimp.
-- 
Don't blame me, I voted Libertarian.

Oleg Kiselev                                             oleg@veritas.com
VERITAS Software                           ...!{apple|uunet}!veritas!oleg
From: hbishop@ttsi.lonestar.org (Huett Bishop)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [F] Bolivian Rams (a second attempt)
Date: 22 Jan 93 18:01:43 GMT
Organization: Tandem Telecommunications Systems Inc.

In article <1993Jan21.162706.99@gtewd.mtv.gsc.gte.com> ayresr@gtewd.mtv.gsc.gte.com (Rich Ayres) writes:
>  Does anyone know how to distiguish Mr. Bolivian Ram from Mrs. Bolivian Ram?
>
>  I have two of these fish here (by my very side), but both are the same
>  sex.  I've heard that the dorsal fin can help distinguish them, does
>  anyone know details.  Both my fish have:
>
 The second spine of the males dorsal fin should be a little longer than the
others 
>        /
>       //
>     ///////
>    ///////////
>  ---------------\/  --
> / .              \-----
> O                 -----
> \___\____________------
>      \ \           ---
>
>
I modified the drawing to show the second spine
Also on both sexes the first 5 spines are blackish, and I think on the
males darker.

Also the male is (should be) more brightly colored and the female looks a 
little chunkier.

I believe these are "Blue Rams" or Apistogrammas (sp?) also sometimes
referred to as "Rameriz Dwarf Cichild.

I have 4 and I thin I have 2 males and 2 two females. Can't be 100% sure
but I'm fairly sure at least 1 is female.

Hope this helps


+--------------------------------------+       
|Huett Bishop                          |       
| Tandem Telecommuncations Systems Inc.|       
|Dallas, TX                            |       
|                                      |       
|Go Cowboys!!                          |       
|                                      |       
|email: hbishop@ttsi.lonestar.org      |       
+--------------------------------------+       
                                          
                                          
                                          
                                          
                                          
                                          
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: maierj@edmund.cs.andrews.edu (Joey Maier)
Subject: Re: cichlids
Organization: Andrews University
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 22:52:57 GMT

In article <C185uC.Hs2@hpchase.rose.hp.com> dbs@hprnd.rose.hp.com (Dave Sheehy) writes:
>matthew.kaufman (mattk@cbnewsl.cb.att.com) wrote:
>: I only have experience with L. leleupi, J. regani, J. transcriptus (talk
>: about vicious...) L. brichardi,  ...
                     ^^^^^^^^^^^^

Didn't some taxonomist with too much time on his hands decide that these
are really Neolamprologus elongatus?

>Their only downside
>is that they are not colorful in an overt way. I happen to really like them
>even though as a general rule I go for the more colorful gawdy stuff (like
>peacocks). 

I really like mine too.  When I got them I thought that they were just
some nice looking little cichlids, but now I really think that they look
elegant.  One thing that makes  them really attractive is that the tan
body, on mine at least, is accented by faint blue edging on the fins.
Very Nice.


Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: henry@zds-oem.zds.com (Tim Henry)
Subject: Re: (M) How often to change water?
Organization: Zenith Data Systems, OEM Systems Engineering
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 20:01:55 GMT

In article <1k6aejINNks@tamsun.tamu.edu> bryan@kolsky.tamu.edu (Bryan Milligan) writes:
>In article <1993Jan26.204520.16032@sfu.ca> windels@lemon.csil.sfu.ca  
>(Karla Jane Windels) writes:
>> How often should water in a marine aquarium be changed and what  
>amount each
>> time?
>> 
>> We have recently converted one tank over to salt water and were told
>> by the fish store who sold us the new supplies that the water did not
>> need to be changed as often as with fresh.  They recommended: once  
>after
>> the first month, then once a year after that.  But I've also heard  
>other
>> answers. 
>
>It has been about six months since I changed the water in any of
>them.  Everything is doing fine.  I haven't added anything other
>than RO water to the reef tank in several months as well.
>--

I maintained a 29g., a 55g., a 90g. and a 180g. saltwater tanks for 
about five years before I moved 600 mi. to a different job. The 180g.
tank was primarily a community tank, the 90g. was a combination reef
and reef fish and the 29g. was only a reef tank.  After the 180 was
established (all enviromental parameters in check) I ran an under-
gravel filter and one Magnum 350.  Using Instant Ocean I only added 
water when needed in the five years.  Having included calurpa  and 
nurtured calurpa in the tank kept the nitrates in check enough for
the fish however the nitrate concentration would have probably been toon too
high to expect to keep inverts in it. The 29 and 90g. tanks I monitore 
the nitrate levels and changed the water when the nitrates went too
high (I don't remember what that level is off hand).  I would guess
that I a quarter tank change about once a year in the 29 and 90.
Since I moved I only setup the 180 and a 29 and they both ran about 5
years again only adding water and trace elements in the 180 and 
monitoring the nitrates in the 29.  Recently after a hot summer with
no airconditioning eliminated most of the rest of my fish I broke the
180 down, mainly due to the expensive and limited availability of 
marine fish in this area, converted to freshwater.
 So I guess in my long winded way I am saying that in my unschooled
experience I found that in my marine fish tanks that water replacement
due to evaporation was sufficient while testing the water once a month
and adding trace elements per the schedule on the bottle and changing
the water in the invert. tanks when needed, about once a year, while
testing the water once a month.


Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:10299 alt.aquaria:6699