HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: daveb@Ingres.COM (Dave Brower, DBMS hack, [510] 748-3418)
Subject: Re: Olympus OM1 lens recomm
Originator: daveb@lotus
Keywords: lens
In-reply-to: jtg0707@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Jui Tien)
Reply-To: daveb@lotus (Dave Brower, DBMS hack, [510] 748-3418)
Organization: Ingres, an ASK Company
Date: 16 Nov 92 07:42:24 GMT

OM lenses are pretty easy to find at reasonable prices, if you shop
used.  A likely source of ad is the "Shutterbug" magazine, available
at many large newstands and some photo stores.

A "safe" choice might also be one of the Tamron "adaptall" lenses,
which take replaceable adaptors for many makes.  You should be able to
get those easily new from most mail-order places, eg: Camera World of
Oregon, recommended highly in this list.  This seems like a bad idea
to me, because they are big compared to the OM lenses, and aren't
autofocus if you suspect you'll move that way later.

(Also note that there are OM to Minolta Maxxum mount adaptors, letting
you use OM lenses on those autofocus bodies.  But you'd want an
autofocus lenses on an autofocus body)

For type of lens, think about the lens you lost, and how it fit with
your photo style, real or imagined.

It seems like snapshooters are into modest zoom lenses, wide-angle to
modest telephoto, with modest aperatures.  Examples are 35-70
f3.5-4.5, or 28-135.  The 70-210 range seems a bit long and bulky for
snapshots, where some wide angle is often called for.  Zooms tend to
be bigger and heavier than equivalent fixed lenses, but of course you
need fewer of them.  Their slow speed often makes hand-held available
light shots hard to do, but if you always have a flash or shoot when
it's 'sunny f/16' that won't be a problem.

I've been expanding my OM stuff over the last 18 months, having
decided Nikon was too pricey for my blood.  It's fairly easy to find
used stuff in Shutterbug and at camera shows/swap meets, though not
with the vast quantity of Nikon stuff.  So far I have only fixed focal
length Zuiko lenses, 24/2.8, 50/1.8, 135/3.5, and 180/2.8.  This keeps
the camera small and light to operate.  The 135 is essentially
worthless.  I've also decided never to buy a lens slower than f/2.8
again, since they are dimmer and don't hold value used very well.  I
had and lost a 28, and the replacement 24 is much more to my taste.  A
superwide (wider than 28mm) is an awful lot of fun, since you can
really put foreground things in context, and get very stretched clouds
in the sky.

If you aren't picky about quality, you can get a decent third party
snapshooter zoom at a swap meet for $70 easily.  I just passed on a
35-80 Tamron (or was it a Sigma?) the other day.  Really off-brands
can be had for $30-50 if you negotiate a little.

good luck,
-dB


-- 
Windows/NT - the VMS of the 90s
From: v206gb6c@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (IS AN ILLEGAL PERSON NAME)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Olympus IS-1, why not?
Date: 20 Nov 92 19:14:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41


    I'm interested in buying a new camera and I'm thinking about buying the
aforementioned Olympus.  I read a while ago that the camera was bashed, thrashed
and otherwise reviewed a while ago.  Could someone(s) please mail me a summary
of the reviews.  Thanks.  I'm mainly looking for a camera to take backpacking
and the such and I want more control than the point-and-shoots give.  I'm
also giving some consideration to getting the Elan, but I've seen enough info
here about it. 

PauL M SchwartZ  (-Z-)  |  Follow men's eyes as they look to the skies
v206gb6c@ubvms.BitNet   |         the shifting shafts of shining 
pms@geog.buffalo.edu    |        weave the fabric of their dreams
pms@acsu.buffalo.edu    |                    - RUSH -
From: rich@genie.slhs.udel.edu (Rich Schwartzman)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: putting photos on a wall.. (?)
Date: 19 Nov 92 22:31:25 GMT
Organization: UDel, School of Life & Health Sciences

In article <1999@intermec.UUCP> jay@intermec.com (Jay Schlegel x6878) writes:
}In article <BxuFy1.HM6@cs.dal.ca> graham@ug.cs.dal.ca (Michael Graham) writes:
}>In article <1992Nov16.171458.9871@PacBell.COM> jpglori@srv.PacBell.COM (John P. Gloria) writes:
}>>
}>>Not to be a smart-ass, but why don't you frame the pictures?
}>>Afterall, that is the normal way, at least for me, when I
}>>want to put my pictures up on the wall.
}>
}>damn! I just deleted my original msg. Anyway - I want to put A LOT of
}>pictures on my wall - INEXPENSIVELY. I'm talking about 50-100 photos, 
}>which rules out thumb tacks, nails, and definitely frames.
}>Once again - it's a very hard plaster wall.


Have you guys ever seen a commercial product called FUN TAK.  It's a bit like
silly putty but it's designed to hold things in place.  I've used it to hold 
mounted prints up to 11x14.  It does the job without messing up th wall.
prints up to 11x14.


-- 
   ---------------------------------------------
  | Richard B. Schwartzman, RBS Communications  |
  |  Media Coordinator, DE. Libertarian Party   |
  |         rich@genie.slhs.udel.edu            |
  |              (302) 455-0354                 |
   ---------------------------------------------
From: ay00@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (ALI YILDIRIM)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Mail order companies
Date: 19 Nov 92 20:04:53 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

Hello,
I am thinking of puchasing a zoom lens and some filters for my Canon EOS
Rebel. And I was wondering if anyone has anything to say about mail order
companies.
Thanks in advance.
-- 


   +===============================+=======================================+
   | Ali YILDIRIM                  |  "Programs expand to fill the memory  |
   | ay00@lehigh.edu               |   available to hold them."            |
   | ay00@pl122b.eecs.lehigh.edu   |                      Parkinson's Law  |
   | ayildiri@toto.csee.lehigh.edu |                                       |
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: markt@cup.hp.com (Mark Thompson)
Subject: Aux power for 283?
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 17:20:19 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1scd1 PL4

Does any one know what connections are used for running external power packs
for a Vivitar 283.  I see that there is a connector just below the battery
back.  Is this where a 6v supply would plug in or is it where a HV supply
goes.  I got my hands on some 5wh 2v batteries with a charger and thought
that three of them would make a good aux. pack.  Any thoughts?

Mark
From: g89s9058@hippo.ru.ac.za (Barry Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Colour enlarger price ?
Summary: What would this cost in $$
Date: 23 Nov 92 07:35:31 GMT
Article-I.D.: hippo.1992Nov23.073531.8885
Organization: Rhodes University, Grahamstown, South Africa

I  have  just managed to aquire a second hand colour enlarger,
and  I  was  interested to find out what an enlarger like this
(also second hand) would go for in the states (or there abouts :))

Aaargh,  I  can  remember the make (it's Czchekoslovakian - or
however  the  hell  you  spell  it !! .>), but the model is an
OPEMUS II (or IIa - again, my memory)

can  anyone  give  me  a  rough  idea  of what this (or a near
equivalent) would cost??

ThanX
Barry

-- 
Mail me at: g89s9058@hippo.ru.ac.za

"May the dwarfs be with you."
From: rmihara@ocf.berkeley.edu (Randall A. Mihara)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Polaroid back
Date: 20 Nov 92 20:57:40 GMT
Organization: U.C. Berkeley Open Computing Facility
NNTP-Posting-Host: avalanche.berkeley.edu

>Sheung L Li writes:
>> Does anyone have any experiences with NPC backs?  Specifically, I'm 
>
>I have an NPC for Nikon and a Brnoica back for my Bronica.
>The NPC cost three times as much for the Nikon as did the Bronica, works
>differently, but is made better.
>I don't think you have much choice in the 35s for backs, but you do in the
>medium formats.

When I purchased a polaroid back for my blad, I opted for the Hasselblad
one, because the NPC was not as optically sound as the Hasselblad one...
that is, the clear plastic piece that is in front of the polaroid film.
The blad polaroid back was a bit more expensive than the NPC, but worth it.

Randy Mihara
rmihara@ocf.berkeley.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: tse@ra.nrl.navy.mil (Anthony Tse)
Subject: Re: Info wanted on Nikon N90 vs. Minolta 9xi--what to buy...
Organization: Naval Research Lab, Washington, DC
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 17:50:08 GMT

In article <fred-mckenzie-161192173054@k4dii.ksc.nasa.gov> fred-mckenzie@ksc.nasa.gov (Fred McKenzie) writes:
>In article <410@rd1.interlan.com>, browner@rm1.interlan.com (Michael
>Browner) wrote:
>> The reason that I recommend the Nikon is that she can start out with a small
>> set of lenses, but if she gets an assignment where she needs something 
>> exotic, she can easily rent it, esp in New York.
>
>Michael-
>
>Your point is well taken regarding availablility of rental equipment. 
>However, it is probably a more persuasive arguement for going ahead and
>getting the F4.

	Well, I think this is one of the big reason why people buy F4s
even though the EOS1 is a better camera and EF lens are better (IMHO).

>On the other hand, the 9xi is represented as being the Minolta professional
>model replacing the 9000.  Being of more recent design, it probably has
>better capabilities than the F4, and costs less.

	There are other cameras that have better capabilities then the F4,
but capabilities are not the reason why people buy F4s, loyality, lens
rental, and compatability are.  Let say your friend is going to work for
a newspaper, chances are, the newspaper is going to have some Nikon
equipment that she can borrow, now if she show up with a Minolta, she
is SOL.

>I recommend he/they not beat around the bush, but
>go for the professional model of their choice, rather than getting an
>intermediate consumer model that costs a major percentage of a pro model
>they really need.

	What pro really need is a realiable camera, so neither the F4 nor
the 9xi is the right choice.  You probably see lots of pros running
around with a featureless but indestructable FM2.



    Since I am not a pro, I run around with a featureless but
indestructable F1.

-Anthony
From: natola@coos.dartmouth.edu (Mark A. Natola)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Olympus OM lenses
Keywords: Premium prices
Date: 18 Nov 92 18:15:21 GMT
Organization: D.M.S. Section of Neurology

I picked up a used Olympus 28mm f2.8 WA lens and a used Olympus Macro lens 
today at a local camera shop.  They were asking $130.00 for the WA and $165 
for the Macro.  After a few offers and little counter offering from them, I 
paid $225 for the pair.  Did I pay to much?  How hard is it to get original 
OM series lenses/accessories these days?  Up here in New Hampshire, I never 
see them.

Mark
From: gmayhew@sven.lerc.nasa.gov (George Mayhew)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Beseler "Universal" 4x5 enlarger system?
Date: 23 Nov 92 15:15:14 GMT
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center

Can anybody tell me about the Beseler "Universal" system
for their 4x5 enlargers?  I've seen a list of features,
but that's all.

I assume it will fit any 45MX.. chassis.  How does it compare
to the 45A head?  Most important, how much does it cost?

George
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: rao@ccu.umanitoba.ca (Govindaraju Rao)
Subject: Re: putting photos on a wall.. (?)
Organization: University of Manitoba, Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 08:34:48 GMT

Michael Graham writes:

>I want to put a whole bunch of my B&W 8x10's and 5x7's on my *plaster*
>wall. Is there a way to do this without ruining the photos or the wall?
>2 way tape? Is there anything else? Does the tape come off the photos?
>
>mike

  In the April 1992 issue of Popular Photography (p. 57) reader
  Dennis Bernard suggests using a piece of carpet edging as a
  frame in which to hang framed photos, that can easily be removed
  and replaced at will. The article has accompanying
  photo-illustrations. It will still require some nails to hold
  the carpet edging in place. Shouldn't be too much of a problem
  to seal the holes in a plaster wall if required. 
 
-- 
G.S.K. Rao <rao@ccm.umanitoba.ca> <rao@ccu.umanitoba.ca>
 
GRAD STUDENT'S GRACE:  Please God !! If it MUST crash .... not when
                       *I* am using it !!
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jchen@wind.bellcore.com (Jason Chen)
Subject: Re: EF70-210 3 Types?
Reply-To: jchen@wind.bellcore.com (Jason Chen)
Organization: Bellcore, Morristown, NJ
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 92 03:27:39 GMT

In article <1992Nov20.021009.6816@cs.cornell.edu> jchen@cs.cornell.edu (Jeffrey Chen) writes:
>I don't get it: I've seen advertised 3 different 70-210 lenses all
>purportedly made by Canon, can anyone explain differences betweeen
>them?
>
>70-210 f4.0 USM
>70-210 f3.5-4.5 USM
>70-210 f4.0 (not USM)
>
Canon only has one 70-210 zoom with EF mount: the f3.5-4.5USM. 
You were probably misled by AAA's or Cambridge's ad.

Jason Chen
From: sh09@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (STEVEN HIGGINS)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: FM & FE + MD11 or MD12
Date: 21 Nov 92 17:22:54 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

In article <7235@news.duke.edu>, yavor@acpub.duke.edu (Yavor B. Parashkevov) wri
tes:
>In article <7127@news.duke.edu> yavor@acpub.duke.edu (Yavor B.
>Parashkevov)
>writes:
>>The manual for FM2 describes MD12 as the only drive to use. It also says
>>that when attached and turned on, the MD12 will supply power to the
>>meter in order to conserve the camera's battery.
>
>Crap, crap, crap! I take all that back. Sorry, I must have been
>sleeping while writing this or maybe even worse. I apologize for the
>misinformation. Guess I have been thinking about the F3 and the MD-4.
>Still, I'd like to know how usable is the MD-11 with an FM2. Ah, could
>anyone tell me how noisy/quiet it is and how much vibrations it
>produces (the MD-11 or MD-12 that is). I own a generic brand which is
>so noisy, animal photography is out of the question   :-(  It's OK for
>shooting candids during a party or a rock concert, though  ;^)
>
>Regards,
>
>
>Yavor Parashkevov
>
    I've got the original Modern Photography test on the FM2, it states that
    "Adding an MD-11 or MD-12 motor drive to the FM2 raises the db(A) level to
    only 70, putting it in the class with the quieter running motorized
    SLRs". However, it doesn't state anything else about the MD-11 in the
    entire article.  Anybody have any firsthand experience with the duo??

    By the way, did we ever agree whether or not the MD-12 will drain an FE or
    FE2's battery if left on for extended periods??  Hate to dwell on this but
    I have a vested interest.  If the MD-12 does it too there is no reason to
    sell my MD-11.  Reply to my E-mail or post, I read this group regularly.

    Cheers,


    
-- 

~Steve
sh09@lehigh.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au
Subject: Re: Nice MF on AF lenses (was Re: Advice on Canon 50 mm/f1.8 wanted)
Organization: Curtin University of Technology
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 18:42:48 GMT

In article <PD.92Nov13115803@horus.sics.se>, pd@sics.se (Per Danielsson) writes:
> In article <2822@tau-ceti.isc-br.com> jimc@tau-ceti.isc-br.com (Jim Cathey) writes:
> 
>>When I bought into Canon, they had the nicest MF of
>>any of the AF line.  Nice to see they're going backwards!  :-(
> 
> Oh, they still have the nicest MF of all, provided you use the USM
> lenses.
> --

Well, the L USMs are by *FAR* the nicest focusing zooms I have ever used. Well,
the 28-80L is. The non L USMs are too high geared for my liking. The feel is not
too bad ( not real good mind you ) but it only takes a micron of movement to
go past your focus point. It is a pity they didn't make all the lenses controled
by the body, as the USM Ls are, and include the variing focus speed that makes
the Ls so nice to use. Fast at the short end, acurate at the long end...

~Paul

PS in answer to the question "where is curtin?", It was the West Australian
Insitute of Technology... Lok on the map, its THE dot right over on the left
ahnd side of Oz. The city of Perth contains about 85-90% of the states population!!
Thats urbanization for you!!

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: klein@nadia.stgt.sub.org (Alexander Klein)
Subject: Nishika N9000 3D-Camera wanted!
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 20:22:27 GMT
Organization: Stuttgart Net Systems, FRG
Keywords: 3D, Nishika, wanted


Hi folks!

I'm looking for a Nishika 3D-Camera: the Nishika N9000. It has four lenses
and is different from the "usual" Nishika N8000.

If you have one for sale (or know someone!), please let me know!

Thanks!

Alexander Klein, Stuttgart, Germany
<klein@nadia.stgt.sub.org>

P.S. I'm paying with US-$ check!!

Thanks.
-- 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Alexander Klein | Editor, 3D-MAGAZIN     E-Mail: klein@nadia.stgt.sub.org |
|   ___   ____    | Tannenbergstrasse 36   CompuServe/CIS-Mail: 100041,212  |
|  /   \   |  \   | D-7000 Stuttgart 50    GEnie: A.KLEIN9                  |
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: ka1gt@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (robert.m.atkins)
Subject: Re: EOS Rebel IIs vs competitors
Organization: AT&T
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 22:30:55 GMT

In article <1992Nov24.041115.1@cc.curtin.edu.au>, zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au writes:
[Comments on the Canon Rebel]

> No, it won't out last an F or F1, and won't out perform a F4 or EOS-1, but
> it can be used FULLY manualy, to full auto-everything. And it is light enough
> for kids to use. Its a pity its not sold 'standard' with the 50 f1.8 rather
> than the crappy zooms they fit. You can fit all of the EF stuff on it, from
> the 15mm fish-eye, all the way up to the 1200mm f5.6L.

I agree the Rebel is a great camera for the money. Now, is there really a
1200mm f5.6 EF series lens? Was it one of the "Olympics specials"? (I know
Canon in the past have produced some spectacular "one-off" lenses for such
events). I assume they are unobtainable if so (and I assume no mortal could
afford one if they were!).

===============================================================
Bob Atkins  AT&T Bell Labs  email (direct)  att!clockwise!rma
===============================================================
From: TSOS@uni-duesseldorf.de (Detlef Lannert)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: film plane flatness
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 10:20:48 GMT
Organization: Universitaetsrechenzentrum, Heinrich-Heine-Universitaet, Duesseldorf
NNTP-Posting-Host: lannert.rz.uni-duesseldorf.de

In article <1992Nov8.4228.27422@dosgate> "martin tai" <martin.tai@canrem.com> writes:

>   There is from time to time discussion of picture sharpness
>and  film plane  flatness.  Is it  exagerated ?
 [...]

If you are interested in a more detailled analysis of this question,
you may want to have a look at Norman Goldberg's book "Camera
Technology: The Dark Side of the Lens". He describes various methods 
to obtain sufficient film flatness; one of these methods (which he
apparently invented himself) sounds very interesting yet simple but
hasn't, as far as I know, been used so far.

Have any net.experts read this book? If yes, what do you think of his
ideas? Ingenious or unrealistic?
--
Detlef Lannert      DC3EK      E-Mail: tsos@rz.uni-duesseldorf.de
"Gedanken sind nicht stets parat,
man schreibt auch, wenn man keine hat."             Wilhelm Busch
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: seong@tellabs.com (Scott Seong)
Subject: How can I take a good portrait picture?
Followup-To: seong@tellabs.com
Keywords: portrait
Organization: Tellabs, Lisle,IL
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 04:51:34 GMT


Hello netters,

I would like to take a good portrait pictures of my newborn baby.  So far, I
didn't have any success.  I have been using 70-100mm range focal lengths at
f6.7-f11 indoor with flash on.  The shutter speeds used were 1/125 and 1/200
with ASA100 and 400 films.  I tried pretty much all shutter and aperature
combinations described above with brand new minolta 7xi, maxxum 28-80xi, and
80-200xi lenses.  PROBLEM:  The images weren't sharp enough for enlargement.

I would like to get some advice from the net experts.  Here are some of my
questions.

(1) What speed film should I use?
(2) Where are the reputable processing labs?
(3) Recommended focal length, Aperature & Shutter speed?
(4) Any other do's and don'ts?
-- 
Scott Seong
seong@tellabs.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: josh@Happy-Man.com (Joshua_Putnam)
Subject: Re: Lamp intensity vs. lifetime (was Re: 486 CPU KOOLERS FOR SALE)
Reply-To: Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com
Organization: Happy Man Corp., Vashon Island, WA 98070-7399
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 17:21:17 GMT

In <BxvICz.rs@javelin.sim.es.com> rspeirs@javelin.sim.es.com (Ron Speirs) writes:

>In article <1992Nov16.164101.20150@bnr.ca> mwandel@bnr.ca (Markus Wandel) writes:

>>Lamp dimmers cause
>>light bulbs to buzz, surely not a good thing for a fragile, overheated
>>filament you are trying to extend the life of.  The diode approach also
>>messes with the AC waveform.  
>>
>You are right about lamps dimmers causing lamps to buzz.  This is because
>the dimmer chops up the waveform (I won't go into details here).  Perhaps
>someone else would have some data comparing lamp life on a non-linear
>waveform with lamp life on a pure sinusoid.

I don't have any data, but I have a dimmer that doesn't make
lamps buzz.  Actually, I have two of them.  One is a big old
rheostatic dimmer that just adds resistance to dim the
light.  The other is a Variac transformer that converts my
120v AC to anything from 0v to 135v.  The rheostat is less
expensive, smaller, and lighter, but puts out quite a bit of
heat since it is essentially burning up the excess power.

Electronic dimmers may be smaller, cheaper, and much more
efficient, but if you care about hum, the old pre-electronic
methods work better.
-- 
 Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com    Happy Man Corp.  206/463-9399 x102
 4410 SW Pt. Robinson Rd., Vashon Island, WA  98070-7399  fax x108
 We publish SOLID VALUE for the intelligent investor.  NextMail OK
Info free; sample $20: Send POSTAL addr: Solid-Value@happy-man.com
From: natola@coos.dartmouth.edu (Mark A. Natola)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: B+W photo copying
Date: 19 Nov 92 15:36:41 GMT
Organization: D.M.S. Section of Neurology

I am about to do a bunch of B+W photo copying.  I have a copy stand and a 
macro lens.  The photos are all 8x10" B+Ws.  I have done a little of this 
before, under someone elses guidance.  He checked light with a meter, then 
we did a series of test shots at different aperture settings.  We recorded 
the different settings on each shot for comparison.  Once I had the film 
developed, I didn't think one setting was much different than the next
(obviously we only used the apertures that we thought were appropriate).
Since I had about 20 exposures left on the roll, I shot them off using what 
we thought would be a good setting.  The pictures varied from lots of dark 
areas, to lots of light areas.  Upon inspection of the rest of the role, the 
lighter ones look overexposed, while the darker ones look pretty good.  
So.... my first question is, should the light have been checked on each 
photo, to get a correct aperture setting?  I will be doing this at home soon 
and won't have the meter, therefore I will be relying on my camera (an 
Olympus OM-2N) to set aperture.  Second, what is the best B+W film for this 
job?  All input is appreciated.  Thanks

Mark
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: rsiva@active.UVic.CA (Sivakumar  Radhakrishnan)
Subject: Vivitar 70-210 mm Zoom for X-700
Organization: University of Victoria, Victoria, BC, Canada
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 92 00:17:12 GMT

Hi,

I have a Vivitar 70-210 mm Zoom lens for a Praktica BCA SLR camera.
I am planning to buy a Minolta X-700 body. Can this lens fit in the Minolta
mount ? What adapters do I need to get to make them compatible.

Kindly mail your advice to my e-mail address.

Thanks in advance,

Regards

Siva

rsiva@sirius.uvic.ca
Newsgroups: rec.photo