HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: tedcrum@garnet.berkeley.edu (Ted Crum)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: WANTED: Tire advice for VW camper
Date: 13 Nov 92 21:25:02 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
NNTP-Posting-Host: garnet.berkeley.edu

a room mate used the Sears Light Truck tires on his VW van and found
them superior in every way to oem. They were Michelin then. You can
tell by the DOT code on the side. Check the "Pocket Ref" at a good 
bookstore (most fun book for $5) for codes. Mine is not with me now.
Send me codes and I can get back to you. Light Truck tires are about
eaqual to the oem "reinforced" tires.

-Good Luck
-TC
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: kpjone01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu
Subject: re: grinding 1-2 shift
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 11:52:54 GMT
Organization: University of Louisville
Followup-To: rec.autos.vw

In article <milo-051192222916@mielo.dorm.rutgers.edu>, milo@dorm.rutgers.edu (james mielo) writes:
> I have a 90 GTi 8V. The tranny grinds on the 1-2 shift eventhough the
> clutch is fully depressed and no matter how slow the shift is done. The
> second gear slot feels like shifting into marbles. It is almost like
> feeling the gears trying to mesh. The clutch is self adjusting so I assume
> the clutch is properly engaging.Also it doesn't occur in any other gear a
> nd occurs wether I shift at 2000rpm of 5500rpm. This problem occurs when
> the car is off and idle usually overnight. It doesn't seem to be temp.
> dependant since it occurs in the winter and summer. Recently my pinion gear
> came loose and chewed up some gears. VW replaced 1st gear and 2nd
> gear+synchro and other assorted clips, etc. The problem still exists so
> this rules out synchro/internal damage. What could be causing it? It has
> been going on for about a year so I really need help!!
> 
> James Mielo


My 86 GTi does the same thing unfortunatly.  Also every GTi I have ever driven,
all the way up to 1991 models, has had a bad feeling 1-2 shift.  Personally I
think the design sucks.  I love the rest of the car though.  I just wish it
was rear wheel drive (or all wheel drive.)  Check your shift linkage, that 
might be doing it.
 
Kevin
From: v129qp43@ubvmsd.cc.buffalo.edu (Hugh Jarvis - Anthropology Dept.)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: four-way flasher troubles
Date: 12 Nov 92 00:35:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

This is rather a dumb question, probably, but, as ever, I
am curious to get the net's response to this nuisance.
Just recently my four-way flashers stopped working.  When
the ignition is off, nothing happens.  With the ignition           
switched on, the dash light glows (doesn't flash), the
relay remains quiet and the lights stay off.  With ignition
and turn signal on, switching on the flasher stops the
turn signal action, and the dash indicator light again just
glows.  From my book's info, it seems that the switch or
wiring is bad, but the relay doesn't seem to be operating
up to par either - the turn signal lights flash only very
weakly.  The car is a 1980 Jetta, by the way.  Anyone who
has advice or comments please reply.  Thanks!
          Hugh  C129QP43@UBVM
From: ilh@lcs.mit.edu (Lee Hetherington)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Wiper problems on 86 Golf GTi
Date: 13 Nov 92 09:56:58
Organization: MIT/LCS Spoken Language Systems
Reply-To: ilh@lcs.mit.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: winnie-the-pooh.ai.mit.edu
In-reply-to: jah@slc.slac.stanford.edu's message of Thu, 12 Nov 1992 14:18:50 GMT

I've had very good luck ('86 GTi) with the following simple and stupid
approach:  I cut a small washer-shaped piece of course sandpaper and
jam it between the spindle and the wiper arm.  Once I crank down the
bolt it doesn't slip.  Of course, if it does start to move I'll sand
down my spindle even more, but that hasn't happened to me in three
years.  Cost: $0.02 or so.  If that doesn't work then you can try to
replace the spindle.


--

                                Lee Hetherington
                                ilh@lcs.mit.edu
From: kpjone01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Wiper problems on 86 Golf GTi.
Date: 5 Nov 92 14:45:01 GMT
Organization: University of Louisville

Greets,
 
I am wondering if it is possible to replace one of the spindles on the
windshield wiper mechanism of an 86 Golf.  Only one wiper is screwed up
and the spindle needs to be replaced. I would rather not have to replace
the entire unit but I guess it can be done.   Just in case I am not coming
across correctly, I am speaking about the shaft that the wiper bolts onto.
The splines on this are stripped and the wiper arm moves freely.  Having
only one moving wiper kinda sucks. Rain-X does help though. I just have
to keep the speed up above 35mph.  I doubt the 'X' is gonna do much
for snow though.
 
Kevin

kpjone01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: kirchner@unix.cie.rpi.edu (Eric Kirchner)
Subject: Re: big alternators - tiny belt
Organization: CIE, Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 22:56:22 GMT

In article <1992Nov11.153729.11629@linus.mitre.org> rll@frieda.mitre.org (Roberto L. Landrau) writes:

>I wouldn't mind 100/150 or 100/170, since I do most of my driving at
>night.
>

You may not mind, but I might!  Please consider the drivers coming at
you, trying not to get blinded by your improved lighting.

Eric
From: gpn0@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (GARY PHILIP NEWHART)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: LOOKING FOR A VANAGON
Date: 11 Nov 92 18:51:26 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

I am looking to buy a 86-89 Vanagon. Any for sale out here.
Thanks in advance
Gary Newhart
Lehigh University
Environmental Studies Center
Chandler Ullman #17
Bethlehem, Pa. 18018
(h) 215-882-9798
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 14:42:15 EST
From: Karl Nordstrom <KXN2@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: A3 Golf GTI 16V


dan@grok85.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM (Daniel Adams) says:
>
> I recently received the latest issue of "Auto, Motor und Sport" and
> "Gute Fahrt" (a VW/Audi mag)...

I'm looking for a Audi magazine.  Is "Gute Fahrt" the only one?
Could you mail me the address for it?
From: baker2668@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Test
Date: 13 Nov 92 16:37:20 -0600
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

Test

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: squiec@vccnw04.its.rpi.edu (Craig L. Squier)
Subject: Re: starter problem
Followup-To: starter problem
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY
Distribution: rec.autos.vw
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 20:53:31 GMT

In article <3679@news.cerf.net> morioka@nic.cerf.net (Craig Morioka) writes:
>I have an 83 Rabbit with an intermittent starting problem.
>When the car is out in the sun (> 70 F) the car will not start.
>The warning light on the instrument panel for the battery lights
>up but the engine will not start.  No engine cranking over
>sounds, it's as if the battery is low.  I've replaced the
>battery, starter and alternator, but to no avail :*(.  I've been told
>that the ignition switch could be faulty. Anybody out there have a
>similar experience? or problem solving idea? 
>
>thanks,
>
>Craig
>
  Whoever told you to replace the switch probably was right. BUT.......
 Before you do this mildly expensive thing(@$75 for a used one )
 Check the grounds AND harnesses for the starter circuit. My 79 dasher did`
 the same thing as yours. I bought a new starter but when i put it in ....NOTHING.
 Cause: Frayed and rusted through negative ground off the battery. The lights
 came on and all, but when you need real juice you get zip. This part is 
 prone to rusting, breaking etc...  it runs under your airbox and attaches to
 the trans mount. This is a @$6-10 part check it first.
OK?>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From: blu@cellar.org (Dan Reed)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: big alternators - tiny belt
Date: 9 Nov 92 14:10:33 GMT
Organization: The Cellar BBS and public access system

amiller@almaden.ibm.com (Alex Miller) writes:

> I already have a 90A Motorola alternator on my '83 GTI and I'm
> thinking of getting a higher power unit so I can run ALL my
> lights when I'm on private roads.  I think Motorola has a 110-120A
> unit that will fit.  I wonder, will the standard V-belt will
> still work?  I've seen several rallye cars that use two belts
> in parallel or use a wider cog-belt - like a timing belt or dry-sump.
> 

Well, I have never done this, but I can say "why"?  I run, two 55 Watt 
Halogen off-road lights, and two 65 Watt Fog lights, My Highbeams, wipers, 
heater (fan), radio (two amps.), with no problem on my 89 Golf with a 90Amp 
alternator.   

I mean, how many lights DO you have?  Ive been running this combo for some 
time, and have never had a problem..

--
Dan Reed AKA Blu Max - blu@cellar.org - AnalCADGeek! - Industrial Music Maker
    68' Cougar XR-7, 89' VW Golf, 74' Honda CL360t, Vextrex Unit Lover
-Legal in California only for racing use, never to be used on a highway.-
From: milo@dorm.rutgers.edu (james mielo)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: VDO oil PSI gauge install..
Date: 13 Nov 92 03:42:57 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.vw
Organization: rutgers university

In article <k5a2TB1w164w@cellar.org>, blu@cellar.org (Dan Reed) wrote:
> 
> 
>                Adding a VDO oil pressure gauge to your car.
>  

> Purchased From - Volkstech, of Burlington NJ.  


       do you have an address for Volkstech?


       plus, does this store have a good reputation and what type of parts
do they carry ( ie perfomance only, mixture of performance/ non
performance, or just non performance)

     Also, does it have a showroom

        I'm in new brunswick and want to know if it's worth the trip

James Mielo
Rutgers College of Pharmacy '94
milo@dorm.rutgers.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: cdg@sei.cmu.edu (Craig Gary)
Subject: GTi parts for sale
Organization: Software Engineering Institute
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 19:32:32 GMT

  	
		Assorted '84 Rabbit GTi parts for sale;

	
	1.   	Bilstein BTS-172 sport suspension kit.  Completely
		assembled with 1.5" lowering progressive rate springs.
		Will fit any A1 chassis car.
		$300

	2.	Neuspeed upper and lower front strut tower tie (stress)
		bars.  Will fit any A1 chassis car.
		$100 for both

	3.  	Rear disc brakes from '87 GTi.  Bolt on conversion for
		any VW.
		$200

	4.	2 Black doors with (bolted, not glued) vent windows
		and burgundy GTi panels.  Very good condition. 
		$50 each

	5.	Black hood - perfectly straight.  
		$50

	6.  	Black hatch with good glass and rear wiper - very 
		good condition
		$50

	7.  	Nice windshield with rear view mirror and 2 year old
		gasket (paid $40 for gasket)
		$50

	8.	2 side-rear windows with very good gaskets (HBI tinted)
 		$25 each

	9.  	Burgundy GTi interior.  Rear seat and both front seats.
		$125 for all 3

	10.	2 Taillights - very good cond.
  		$15 each

 	11.	Various interior parts-----tell me what you need.
		$cheap 

	9. 	I also have axles, brakes, fuel tank, rear swingarm
		etc.............




	* Respond via e-mail to cdg@sei.cmu.edu. or give me a call at
	* (412)-486-9056.  Leave a message if there's no answer.
From: ccb@macbeth.umd.edu (Blake Sobiloff)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: 5th gear gone??
Date: 6 Nov 92 01:48:48 GMT
Organization: University of Maryland, College Park

In article <1992Oct30.201743.26988@b11.b11.ingr.com> mcconnel@b11.b11.ingr.com (Guy McConnell) writes:
>    I hope you had it checked out to be sure that the tranny had
>gone.  My '85 GTI "lost" 5th gear recently and all it was was a
>broken plastic shift linkage connecting the shift lever on the
>tranaxle assembly to the rest of the shift mechanism.  Cost to
>repair:  $1.50.  Time to repair:  60 sesconds.  Oh yeah, my GTI has
>91,000 miles on it.

Well, there was a pretty awful grinding sound when in neutral or
when the shift lever was where 5th gear used to be. I asked to
see my tranny after the dealer pulled it; 5th gear was missing
several teeth, and the pieces had taken chunks out of other
parts inside. Pretty clear case, it seems...

"To say someone is 'entitled' to some- | Blake Sobiloff
thing is to say someone else is obli-  | <ccb@umd5.umd.edu>
gated to produce in his place. It is   | Laboratory for Automation Psychology
the civilian version of draft-dodging  | Department of Psychology
and leaving the sacrifices to others." | University of Maryland
		-Thomas Sowell         | College Park, MD  20742-4411
From: kerila@hal.com (Larry Kerila)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Random Engine Cut Out
Date: 5 Nov 92 20:09:26 GMT
Reply-To: kerila@hal.com
Organization: HaL Computer Systems
NNTP-Posting-Host: spiff.hal.com

Mark Lentczner writes:
>My 85 Cabriolet has had the following symptoms off and on
>over the past three years.  In the last six months they
>have gotten so bad that I often can't drive the car for
>more than five blocks:
>
>	* At any speed, idle to 70mph, the ignition randomly
>	  cuts off for anywhere from momentarily to 10 seconds.
>	  When this happens the Tachometer drops instantly to
>	  zero.  All other electrical (lights, radio, fan, etc.)
>	  work fine during this period and other sensors and
>	  gauges look normal.
-stuff deleted-
>	* This happens whether the car is cold or warm.  I've
>	  had it happen after the car has been running for half
>	  an hour.  On the other hand, it is very sporadic: I've
>	  been known to drive four hours straight and not had
>	  it happen at all.  While it is intermittent, it has
>	  gotten to be almost all the time now.
-stuff deleted-
>Generally, after any garage work the car works for about
>two or three weeks and then starts up again!  Any clues?
>The garages say they're stumped!
>
>-mark
> markl@netcom.com


I had a VERY similar problem and was unable to get any mechanic
to fix it (about 4 tries).  I got so distressed I ended up
selling the car (no conscious, huh?).  The buyer took it for a
mechanical check-up to one of those tune-up palaces and reported
a whole list of problems (mostly BS like my Koni gas struts
leaking OIL) but one was a small leak at the transfer pump
(fuel pump).  The car was sold.  My regular mechanic repaired
the leak it turned out, and the buyer was very happy.  I was
fucking pissed.  That small fuel leak was letting air bubles
in the fuel line and causing the "cutout".  BEWARE

Larry J Kerila
Product Design Engineer

HaL Computer Systems         (408)379-7000  ext1283
1315 Dell Avenue             fax  (408)379-5022
Campbell CA 95008

"Where you come from is gone.  Where you thought you were going weren't never there.  Where you are ain't no good, unless you can get away from it!"
From: ching@sail.LABS.TEK.COM (Ching-Feng Hu)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Random Engine Cut Out
Date: 6 Nov 92 22:54:43 GMT
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Beaverton,  OR.

In article <1992Nov4.091720.2673@mdcbbs.com> jan@camhpp12.mdcbbs.com (Jan Vandenbrande) writes:
>In article <1992Nov3.174535.17235@netcom.com> markl@netcom.com (Mark Lentczner) writes:
>>My 85 Cabriolet has had the following symptoms off and on
>>over the past three years.  In the last six months they
>>have gotten so bad that I often can't drive the car for
>>more than five blocks:
>>
/******* Stuff deleted ********/
>>
>>-mark
>> markl@netcom.com
>
>OK, this is a long shot (as y'all are used to from me anyway),
>but I think your trouble is with your ignition circuitry.
/******* Stuff deleted ********/
>-- 
>Jan
>
>jan@camhpp12.mdcbbs.com		(work)
>jan@lipari.usc.edu		(school, usually works, forwards)

There is another possibility. I had the same kind of momentary cut-offs in my
86 Vanagon for quite a few month. I tried many things but it turns out the
idle switch is the culprit. I replaced it and set the idle switch contact
position according to the Bentley manual. The Vanagon runs fine afterwards.
It was also noted in the Bentley that the idle closing position must be
correctly set. I got the solution from an experienced VW mechanic after
tracking the ignition system to no end.

Good luck.

	-Ching

---
internet: ching@sail.labs.tek.com
US mail:  Shane Ching-Feng Hu; Communications Systems Research Lab;
          Tektronix, Inc.; Box 500 MS 50-321, Beaverton OR 97070
Phone:    (503) 627-5692
From: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: European spec Corrado VR6
Date: 8 Nov 1992 03:06:40 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, cf947@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Chun-Hung Wan) says:

>
>I have read that the European spec Corrado carries a larger 2.9l engine
>instead of a 2.8l engine as in the States.  What major differences are
>there between these tow engines?  Are they significant?  Is the European
>spec VR6 rated at 190 horsepwoer instead of 178hp?  Also, is this car reliable?

rather than an answer, i have another question which would be nicely answered
right alongside..what parts do the new v6's share with the old fours??
seems to me that they should(if VW used their brains) share the rods, pistons
valves, trannies(strengthened???) and maybe some other parts. do they?..
my simple(in my  head..VERY SIMPLE!!!!!) calcualtions do not show that 
they do..but i thought maybe someone out there would KNOW!
(BTW..sorry to not answer, but i thought these went fairly well as a set
of questions..?)
DREW
-- 
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
?????????????????????????????????-----whatever!
From: nicos@cs.bu.edu (Nicos Kontopoulos)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: 1993 VW model lineup
Date: 8 Nov 92 04:06:54 GMT
Organization: Computer Science Department, Boston University, Boston, MA, USA
Originator: nicos@csa


  I went to the Boston Auto Show yesterday and I happened to come across
the VW/US press release documents for the 1993 model year:

  The new Golf and Jetta will arrive in "early 1993". The new cars are
labeled "GOLF III" and "JETTA III" respectively. Apparently the name "VENTO"
will only be used in Europe. I believe the GTi will not be labeled "III",
just "GTi".

  There will be only one Golf III, the GL with the new 2-liter 115 hp, 8 valve
engine. The GTi (also available in "early 1993") will be equipped with the
same engine. Top speed for the GTi will be 120 mph. There was NO mention
of a Golf with the VR6.

  The Jetta III will also have the same engine, but there will be two models,
the GL and the GLS. The Jetta III GLX (with the VR6 engine) WILL be available
later in 1993. Therefore, there was no mention of a GLi.

  1993 will be the last year for the VW Cabriolet in the current bodystyle.
For 1993 there will be a limited production (around 4,400) of two versions
of the cabriolet both destined to become collector's editions; the standard
Cabriolet and the "Classic" Cabriolet. The "Classic" will have different
alloy wheels (seven-spoke), heated seats, and more leather. The new cabriolet
is scheduled to be relased in Europe in 1994 and built by Karmann.

  There were also some news on new luxury items for the Corrado, the improved
EuroVans, and the VR6 equipped Passat. If someone wants I can give more
information on specific topics. Unfortunately, there were no technical
specification sheets for the Golf III and Jetta III models.

-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
   Nicos Kontopoulos                             Voice: (617) 787-1780
   INTERnet: nicos@cs.bu.edu                           '81 931
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: WINTERTIME
Date: 5 Nov 1992 17:36:10 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
NNTP-Posting-Host: thor.ins.cwru.edu

ok all you northernites out there, i have a quick question.
i just moved into cleveland from texas, and as such, i have not
much idea as to winter prep for my car.  I need to change the oil,
and want to know if any/all of you recommend a different weight oil
than i usually run,that being 10W-30 Pennzoil(i do not want, however
to change brands)or howmany of you would just stick to the same weight.
as i amsure you might guess, i do not plan on driving around just a whole
heck of a lot during my first REAL winter, but still need to change the
oil, and will at least be starting my car up each week to keep it in good
shape.  Also, how have you been able to keep your jettas from rusting out?
I need to know if i need to do anything special, or on an annual basis to
prevent this.(will it be a huge problem this winter, as i said, i do not
plan on driving it just a whole lot, and thus should not be getting it into
much of the salt crap up here, but i want future references)  i believe that
it was undercoated at least once..but don't you need to repeat this every so
often, even if it has been done?  i flushed out the radiator, and replaced the
coolant to protect to something like -20F, i think, does this sound right?..
this should cover any temperatures i will see here, yes? or no?
well..this is all for now..thanx for any help!
email or post, whatever!
DREW
-- 
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
?????????????????????????????????-----whatever!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: squiec@rs6401.ecs.rpi.edu (Craig L. Squier)
Subject: Re: 3-4 point belts/harnesses for Golf?
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 23:23:27 GMT

In article <1992Nov10.210600.12661@netnews.synoptics.com> ericd@synoptics.com writes:
>I am looking for a mail order source for 3 or 4 point belts/harness for a 
>VW Golf. The dealer will not help me...
>
>The single strap (attached to the door) scares me, even though there is data that
>proves that this system is safe. The problem I have with them are: A. the door can 
>pop open, at which time you are basically flying out of the car. B. I would like to 
>have my knees intact after the accident.
>
>Thanks for any help
>Eric Davis
>ericd@synoptics.com
 The only federally acceptable and really safe looking harness I've seen is the
 line made by Schroth. They are carried in a whole slew of MO companies in
 European Car (I think Autotech is one). EC also did a review on them some
 issues back. I think it was @$100 for the kit. It attached in the back on
 the rear seat( mounted to the unibody ) buckles. It also has a safety ripper
 like the racers use for enrgy absorbtion.(YOU WON'T HEADBUTT THE WINDOW)
HOPE THIS HELPS>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From: milo@dorm.rutgers.edu (james mielo)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Koni's for Sale for Golf GTI
Date: 7 Nov 92 17:25:07 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.vw
Distribution: usa
Organization: rutgers university

In article <1chlftINN2at@itude.hal.COM>, max@hal.COM (Harry Max) wrote:
> 
 
> They are the Sport model not the racing model;
> that is, stiff but not too stiff.  And they are 
> in near mint condition.  
I was interested in upgrading my shocks and springs.
I was wondering what you mean by too stiff. Also, are these the adjustable
Konis or just regular ones.
If they are adjustable are they still too stiff on the softest setting
Final question, did they improve your handling any.
James Mielo
Rutgers College of Pharmacy '94
milo@dorm.rutgers.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Lead Additive
From: dillongm@ucunix.san.uc.edu (Johnny Monocrome)
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 13:51:36 GMT
Organization: University of Cincinnati

In article <1992Nov6.124825.24801@ncsu.edu> david@eos.ncsu.edu (JOSEPH WAYNE DAVID) writes:
>
>Michael,
>
>Your '67 VW bug has hardened steel valve seats and will tolerate
>unleaded gas well. You might need to use the 89 or 92 octane to 

What about  '65 Bug?  Does it have the hardened valve?

Guy Dillon
dillongm@ucunix.san.uc.edu