From: wrp@cyclops.micr.Virginia.EDU (Bill Pearson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bookcase design (It's baaaack!)
Date: 14 Oct 92 17:35:29 GMT
Article-I.D.: murdoch.1992Oct14.173529.27966
Organization: University of Virginia

In article <1992Oct14.140909.26654@crd.ge.com> meltsner@crd.ge.com writes:
>
>Okay, the time has come to bite the bullet and actually build the
>bookcase.  I'm currently planning on using a "Traditional Bookcase"
>design from one of the Rodale Press books (Cabinetry?  All the book
>titles have blurred together).
>
>The bookcase, which will be built-in, consists of any number of
>butt-jointed plywood boxes, with a nice stile (vertical strip of wood)
>covering the vertical sides, a baseboard for the bottom, and a cove
>molding between the ceiling and the bookcase top.  Strength, given the
>lack of fancy joints and the use of adjustable shelving, comes from
>the plywood back and a lot of drywall screws through all the joints.
>Stability is due to attachment to the wall.  Looks are due to the
>stiles and moldings, which I can tackle after the basic cases are up.

	As I have spent the last couple months building and painting
built-in bookcases, I will share my experiences.

	I built two built-in book cases, one from clear yellow pine
and the second from plywood.  I have built many plywood book cases in
the past, and thought I would be doing myself a favor by using solid
wood that did not need an edge treatment and no need to handle 4 X 8
sheets by myself - .  I have also built several things from not so
clear white pine, and felt it was too soft and I wanted something
clearer.

	Although the yellow pine is clear, it is also very grainy and
warps as soon as it is cut.  It was cheap however, and it is strong
and hard.  Sanding and painting took a lot of extra work; I won't be
using yellow pine again.

	My problem with plywood is the size; I don't like to haul or
cut 4 X 8 sheets by myself.  The solution - A GOOD LUMBER YARD. We
have one here that sold me a beautiful piece of cabinet grade red
birch for about $44 and then charged me only $6.00 to cut it up into
the rough sizes I needed.  They had a beautiful Unisaw with three men around
it and accomplished in about 10 minutes what would have taken me at
least half a day, working with my skill-saw and table saw.  My
recommendation:

	FIND A PLACE THAT DOES MILLWORK AND HAVE THEM CUT IT FOR YOU.

You may pay an extra $20 for precisely dimensioned cuts, and maybe $10
extra for non-discount wood (my plywood was a better quality than I
have ever found in a builders-discount lumber yard, however), but
having a bunch guys cut up your boards on professional equipment is
worth every penny.

	Plywood is cheaper than solid wood, particularly if you want
shelves that are 8" wide or wider.  It is also much more dimensionally
stable and easier to finish (much less sanding).  Oak plywood is
easily ordered.

	In my experience, the major problem with any bookcase that
does not have fixed shelves is bowing-out of the sides. Plan to finish
all your edges with 1 x 2's or 1 X 3's (harder to find). The 1 x 2's
will stiffen the shelfs and sides considerably. It might be worth it
to use 1 x 3's on the sides.  They also provide a nice "locking"
mechanism that will keep your shelves from sliding out.

	To make a professional looking bookcase, consider getting a
router. You will want it to make the rabbet's necessary for attaching
the sides to the top and bottom; with rabbets and a face frame, you
don't need nails or screws, just glue and clamps.  You can also use
the router to notch the face frame to accept the plywood edge; this
will give you a much cleaner frame/side joint and help stiffen the
sides. I just nailed and glued the face-frame to the sides, top and
bottom and then used an edging-bit to make the frame/side joint
perfectly flush. You may also want to round-over some of the edges on
the face-frame; little details like that make the difference between a
home-made and professional look.

	My major point, for any home woodworker making shelves or
cabinets is: 1) Use plywood. 2) Find a lumber yard that does millwork
and have them cut the pieces for you.  Then you spend your time doing
the hard part - finishing the project.

Bill Pearson
From: rer@hpfcdc.fc.hp.com (Rob Robason)
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 17:50:29 GMT
Subject: Re: Hand Plane Question
Organization: HP Fort Collins, Co.