HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: camlau@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (**bj**)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Leverless quick-release
Date: 7 Oct 92 23:00:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <1992Oct7.210004.30471@m.cs.uiuc.edu>, ward@m.cs.uiuc.edu (Christ Ward) writes...
>Eric Schweitzer <ERSHC@CUNYVM.BITNET> writes:
> 
>>In article <BvEGt6.93n@math.uwaterloo.ca>, arpepper@math.uwaterloo.ca (Adrian
>>Pepper) says:
>>>
>>>Has any manufacturer ever produced leverless quick-release hubs?  I
>>>envision something into which you insert a separate lever, possibly
>>>even an appropriate sized hex-key, to activate the cam mechanism,
>>
>Anybody out there got any?  Inquiring minds need to know.

A mind is a terrible thing to waste.  To satiate those minds that are
left in the state of inquiry, I shall volunteer that I have one of those
gizmos securing my seat post.  I pick it up a couple of years back 
to avoid having to remove my seat everytime I park my commuter.
The thingy, made by Sansin, is a modified quick release skewer.  
The only difference is that the lever can be removed.  

Works very well, btw.  The complete q/r is a bit heavier than the
std seatr q/r.  However, with the lever removed and stowed in a save
place, the leverless gizmo ended up being the same weight as a std
q/r.  BTW, I haven't seen another one since the day I bought it.
+-------------------------------------------+
|               O               /^^\        |  
|              /\,            /^    ^^\     |   
|             -\ -       /^^^^ /^^\    ^\   |  
|              /(*)  /^^^   /^^    ^     ^^ |
|  \___Q    (*) /^^^^   /^^^   **bj**       |     
|  /\ /\    ^^^^                            |
+-------------------------------------------+
From: ahsu@akira.anatomy.upenn.edu (Seikatsu Taikoku)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Need help cleaning drivetrain...
Date: 8 Oct 92 14:14:06 GMT
Organization: University of Pennsylvania

Hi there, I'm planning on taking apart the drivetrain on my RB-1 this
weekend and I'm wondering what I need to take apart my Ultegra 7 speed
cassette.  I'm certain that it's not hyperglide.  Also, how does
citrus-based degreaser compare with paint thinner (other than smelling
a lot better)?

Forgive me for my ignorance but I've never had to work with Shi(t)mano
components until I got my RB-1 -- I just remember the simple days when
all I needed was a freewheel removal tool, some chain whips, and a big
wrench.

--> Andrew Hsu
From: mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Mackintosh)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: TIME pedal maintenance
Date: 14 Oct 92 12:00:18 GMT
Reply-To: mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Mackintosh)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.bicycles.tech, johnr@col.hp.com (John T. Rasper) writes:
>OK, we've answered the question about the rear cover plate. Now,
>what does that red lever wrapped around the 'axle' do?

Notice that when you clip into Time pedals and wiggle your foot, there
is a secondary little "click."  This is the red "racing clip" popping
up.  This clip meets the back of the forward cam and is what actually
retains your foot against backward pressure.  I broke the back half
of one of these clips off once.  Without the back half, the forward
part will not be pressed up against the back of the forward cam  and
it is pretty easy to pull your foot straight back against the spring
pressure and out of the pedal.

On the plus side, I had bought these pedals at Performance, and since
they didn't have any spare "racing clips", they gave me a new set of
pedals!

David Mackintosh
From: maarrrk@seidel.ucsb.edu (Mark Erickson)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Are 8sp Really Needed?
Date: 7 Oct 92 20:39:18 GMT

jpalmier@rvgs.vak12ed.edu (Jim Palmieri) writes:

><TOM@SLACVM.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU> writes:
>> It seems to me, the seven speed cassette or freewheel is good enough.  
>>
>>	[cut, snip]
>>
>Yes there is something you are missing, a gear!  If you live in
>
>	[cut, snip]
>

If your top and bottom gears are the same, how big an advantage
is it to have 16 (or 24 for MTB's) steps between them over
14 (or 21)? 

Is the finer discretization of the gearing really that important?

--maarrrk
From: broadley@neurocog.lrdc.pitt.edu (Bill Broadley)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Wanted - Comments on Bullseye Pulleys
Date: 14 Oct 92 19:28:10 GMT
Reply-To: broadley@neurocog.lrdc.pitt.edu
Distribution: na
Organization: University of Pittsburgh

I have Bullsey pulleys on my shimano 105 7 speed deraileur and it
shifts very well.  I don't see why a properly adjusted deraileur needs
any play in the pulleys.  

I race with a 13-23 and a 12-18 with no problems.  I really like em,
when very clean/well lubricated they are a little bit smoother then
stock pulleys, but after two weeks there is a big difference as crud
collects in the regular pulleys.  The bullseyes even after months
are still smooth, mostly crud free.


-- 
Bill				1st>	Broadley@neurocog.lrdc.pitt.edu
Broadley@schneider3.lrdc.pitt.edu <2nd 3rd> 	Broadley+@pitt.edu
			Novell, AFS just say NO!
From: truesdel@ics.uci.edu (R. Scott Truesdell)
Subject: Re: MTB Suspension Fork Opinions Wanted
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Organization: University of California, Irvine
Date: 9 Oct 92 17:42:16 GMT
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech

In article <udizzyd.718556773@mcl>, udizzyd@mcl.ucsb.edu (Mike Schmitt)
wrote:
>
> I'd like to go suspension.  Friends have recommended
> Rock Shox Mag-20, Manitous, and Fisher.  I'd like opinions on these, as well
> as:

> -  What kind of geometry change am I looking at?

Maybe 1 degree of fork rake. Maybe less. The newer forks do a good job of
minimizing this.


> -  Would somebody explain the cutting/measuring that will take place?

Consider taking the old fork in. Or the whole bike. What you need to know
is the diameter of the steerer tube and it's length. That's all.
        _  ________________
       | |                |
       | |              length
    -->| |<-- dia.        |
       |_| ________________
      / _ \
     / / \ \
    / /   \ \
    | |   | |
    | |   | |


> -  What other problems I might have.

Probably none.

The Rock Shox are best for fast hard riders and people that don't want
shcks for comfort as much as for an extra safety margin. The Manitous are
active over a much wider range of riding conditions and provide more
comfort along with almost as much ultimate safety. I'm no expert, but I am
a satisfied user of Manitous. At this time I think it's probably best to
stick to one of these two brands.

  --scott
From: dmarsh@cs.strath.ac.uk (David R Marsh CS91)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Malfunctioning rear mech
Date: 8 Oct 92 15:41:08 GMT
Distribution: uk
Organization: Comp. Sci. Dept., Strathclyde Univ., Glasgow, Scotland.
Originator: dmarsh@fleming-08

I have a '91 Trek 950 which is (7 speed) Deore LX equipped. The problem is
this: my rear derailleur occasionally (well fairly often) skips between
adjacent "internal" gears (ie those in the middle of the cassette (?)), and
no amount of twiddling with the adjustment screws seems to sort it. One of
my bikefreak friends says (disparagingly) that it is because I have 
push-push STI shifters, and that "if I had friction shifters it wouldn't
be a problem". However, I quite like indexing and don't want to change my
shifters. Can anybody help solve the problem so that my gears work
perfectly again?

Thanks in advance for any help and if you weren't wearing a green mask today,
then why not??!


Dave.--dmarsh@cs.strath.ac.uk  or  cad129@ccsun.strath.ac.uk {or sthg similar!}-

 Remember FoE Fight the Fumes Week 5 - 10 October. Green masks available from
 HMV, price UK$ 1 (or from Strathclyde Uni Green Group, only 50p for members!)
From: perley@trub.crd.ge.com (Donald P Perley)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Peak speed, was  Cateye Micro average speed
Date: 16 Oct 92 18:36:33 GMT
Organization: GE Corp. R & D, Schenectady, NY 12345

In article <1992Oct13.234702.1800@newsgate.sps.mot.com> weaver@chdasic.sps.mot.com (Dave Weaver) writes:

   dfarrow@spam.ua.oz (Duncan Farrow) writes:

   >On the subject of dodgy cyclometer readouts, I have a similar experience
   >with my Avocet computer with the maximum speed shotting up to fanciful
   >values. I rarely look at it as it is either v_max or v_avg and I choose
   >the latter but one time when I looked at it, it said my maximum speed
   >was 119km/h which is absurd, the fasted I could remember going (and one

   a long climb where, in my lowest gear, I could barely keep the pedals turning.
   The Avocet 40 went nuts and showed my speed at 80 to 110miles/hr. I think it 
   is related to the positioning of the receiver next to the magnetic ring. I 
   adjusted mine a few times and I haven't had that problem in a while.

For a while I was gettiing screwy speed readings from my cateye micro.
Generally it was either twice or half the actual speed, though occasionally
up around 80 mph, or zero.  A shot or 2 of contact cleaner on the mounting
bracket and computer contacts fixed it.

-don perley

--
perley@trub.crd.ge.com
From: TOM@SLACVM.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Friction Shifting
Date: 8 Oct 92 17:16:31 GMT
Article-I.D.: SLACVM.92282.091631TOM
Organization: Stanford Linear Accelerator Center

One of the biggest mistake of the Campy friction shifters is greasing them.
Clean the off and use them dry, they nylon is good enough and you should have
no problem.  If you don't want them, I'll buy the set off you for $5.00!
From: mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Mackintosh)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Are long seatposts a problem? (was Re: Broken rear dropout)
Date: 7 Oct 92 11:53:04 GMT
Reply-To: mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Mackintosh)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.bicycles.tech, ehouse@Apple.COM (Eric House) writes:

>Is this a foolish thing to do?  Should I cut the thing off already and stop
>lugging the extra ounces around?  The seattube is butted, so I doubt the
>post has much contact with the tube walls below the opening except when the
>frame is really flailing around.

Most (all?) seat tubes are single-butted meaning that they have thicker
walls at the BB end but are thin-walled for the rest of their length.
Your seatpost will contact the inside of the seat tube for the entire
length of the post (assuming it's a good fit).

When riding over a bump, additional force from the impact will be applied
to the frame at the back of the seat lug and at the front of the seat
tube where the post ends.  A longer post (exposed) will increase the
magnitude of these forces (longer lever arm) while more post inside
the frame will decrease the forces.

If you are riding a small enough frame that you need an extra-long post
just make sure that there is plenty of post inside the frame.  More
than about 4" inside the frame is probably overkill and could be safely
removed.

David Mackintosh
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: goell@nomad.jpl.nasa.gov (Jeremy Goell)
Subject: Re: Sensor for Computer
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory, NASA/Caltech
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 23:40:46 GMT

In article <1992Oct6.132634.3476@doug.cae.wisc.edu>, brianh@hp-21.cae.wisc.EDU (Brian Huilman) writes:

<stuff deleted>

|> After  going through that, I learned a lot about research.  Here's my 
|> suggestion:
|> 
|>    Go to your library and have someone point out the 'Thompson Index.'   It's
|> a book filled with nothing but companies specializing in xxxxxx.  If you want
|> sensors, turn to the sensors section and voila- there are umpteen gazillion
|> companies that make nothing but sensors (or have a strong sensors product
|> line).  Give them a call, most will mail or fax you info for free (they need
|> the business).

I *think* you mean the "Thomas Guide", or "Thomas Catalog", or "TomCat".

Michael Batchelder
mpb@nomad.jpl.nasa.gov
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tlt38517@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Terry Thiel)
Subject: Bar-ends and Grip Shift.
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 15:27:19 GMT

My wife has the new Grip shift on her Trek 750 hybrid and would like
bar-ends.  I don't know whats inside the grip shift but can I install
bar ends by moving the brakes, and grip shift in to the stem?  I would have to
completely cut off the ends of the grips to do so.  Any problems with all of
that?
-Terry
From: jbrandt@hplred.HP.COM (Jobst Brandt)
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 17:45:59 GMT
Subject: Re: Rebuilding Wheels
Organization: Hewlett Packard Labs, Palo Alto CA
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech

John Holm writes:

> Should I do this myself?  I would prefer to do this myself, but I
> fear that I will spend more on tools and parts than I would just
> having the bike shop do it.

From your description, rusting spokes and nipples, I get the
impression that this is a low budget bike and as such probably has
rims that don't merit rebuilding with $0.50/ea spokes.  As is often
the case, good components don't get you out of the value less bike
problems.  Without knowing anything more about your bike, I suggest
the standard course of action.  Save the crummy wheels to put on the
bike when you sell it for $50 to a needy student.  Get some good
wheels to ride in the meanwhile.

If you are interested in that kind of maintenance, buy the parts and
build them yourself.   The cost of tools and stuff can be charged
against learning and future utility.  Once you build wheels you can
appreciate the independence from the bike shop that helps break that
umbilical cord.  Don't put good spokes in a K=Mart wheel.  It's like
putting titanium parts on a 40 lb bike.

jobst_brandt@hplabs.hp.com
From: r.g.olsen@att.com (Ron Olsen)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Triple chainrings on road bikes
Keywords: they're great!
Date: 14 Oct 92 23:13:02 GMT
Reply-To: r.g.olsen@att.com
Organization: AT&T Bell Labs, Denver CO

I have a Trek 1420 road bike with a triple crank
and I really like it.  (I too got into road biking
after I had started mountain biking.)
It has Shimano 105SC components with Deore DX crank and derailleurs.
I have it set up with 48-45-26 chainrings and
a 12-28 7-speed Hyperglide cassette (half-step plus granny gearing),
with a low of 25 gear-inches and a high of 108.

I'm not a hard-core road rider, and find that this setup
allows me to climb the steepest hills and also fine-tune my
gearing for rolling hills and flatter terrain.
I would recommend a triple crank setup to anyone who
wants to climb steep hills, but doesn't want to suffer.

Of course, there are many road riders with double cranks
who blow past me like I'm standing still, but that's ok with
me.

	Ron Olsen
	Boulder, Colorado
	r.g.olsen@att.com
From: kristian@dwayne (Kristian Simsarian)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: side by side tandem
Date: 13 Oct 92 16:59:41 GMT
Article-I.D.: midway.1992Oct13.165941.17578
Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of Chicago



	Hammacher Schlemner has a bicycle that they call a "side-by-side."
It has two seats next two each other, each side of the crank has a complete
pedel set (see figure below) and there are two sets of handlebars where
one is steerable through a lever contraption to the fork.  The bike is
about $500 and is  low-end Huffy quality.

Cranks (rear view):
   		    P
  _____	           ----
   P  |	   	  |    |
      |	   |--BB--|    |
      |____|	       |____
        P               P


P= pedal
BB= bottom bracket

	Interesting concept, not  worth the $$.


Kristian
-- 
Kristian T. Simsarian			University of Chicago AI Laboratory
email: kristian@cs.uchicago.edu		CS Dept. Chicago, IL 60637
From: MNELLIG@auvm.american.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: STI Deore/Exage Compatibility?
Date: 15 Oct 92 16:06:47 GMT
Organization: The American University - University Computing Center

I have a mountain bike with Shimano STI Exage 400 components.
     I would like to upgrade the shifter/brake levers to the
     shimano Deore STI line, probably LX or DX.
What I'm wondering is if the indexing on the Deore line is the
     same as on the Exage so that i can get the shifters and
     use them with my Exage Derailleurs.
If anyone has any answer for me please respond via E-mail or post.
Thanks.
mpn
   +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Michael P. Nelligan        |  Dance and play! |    MNELLIG@AUVM.BITNET
Human Resource Development |  Life was meant  |            OR
The American University    |  to be enjoyed!! | MNELLIG@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Washington, DC 20016       |                  |
              just another hopelessly optimistic cynical idealist :)
           I don't speak for AU and it doesn't speak for me.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: MEDELMA@cms.cc.wayne.edu (Michael Edelman)
Subject: Oops...Michelin tire width confusion
Organization: Wayne State University, C&IT
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 15:44:07 GMT

In a recent posting I made reference to Michelin 700x28 Comps. Well,
they don't make a tire labeled 700x28. They do, however, make a tire
labeled 700x23 that is as wide, or wider, than any 700x28 I've
compared them to.
 
This can be very confusing. I like a 28 width tire, whether the
Michelin 700x23 or the Avocet 700x28, but it's hard to know without
direct comparison what the actual width of a tire is. I've heard
that Continental is the only makers whose tires run absolutely
true to size, but I'm sure others will contest that. I dunno, myself.
 
       --mike
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Lennard Zinn article on countersteering
From: <PWRIGHT@MIAMIU.BITNET>
Date: Monday, 12 Oct 1992 10:30:28 EDT
Organization: Miami University - Academic Computer Service

Does anyone out there have a copy of the article by Lennard Zinn on counter-
steering that appeared in Velonews last winter? If so, could you please
contact me? I will be happy to pay for photo-copying and postage.
                                          Thanks in advance,
 
                                                         Paul
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: frank@molbio.cbs.umn.edu (Frank Williams)
Subject: Re: Phil Wood BB, how good are they?
Organization: University of Minnesota
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 04:47:45 GMT

Jeff LaCoss (jlacoss@isi.edu) wrote:
: In article <92273.091500FDHEIENO@UCF1VM.BITNET> FDHEIENO@UCF1VM.BITNET writes:
: >Before I drop $90 on a Phil Wood BB I'd like a few opinions pro or con.  Are
: >they just easier to service or smoother than the garden variety BB?  I don't
: 
:  Phil BBs don't need service for, well, a LONG time, if they are
: installed properly. They are very smooth under load. They weigh a lot
: due to the serious spacer tube.  You need a special tool to install
: one.
: 
:  I like mine, and it's been cycled through a couple crashed frames
: over the course of 12 years. It hasn't needed service.

I am 1 for 2 on Phil bottom brackets.  One is in use on my sloppy-weather
bike.  Like Jeff's, it has been through several frames, all sorts of
adversity, and continues without problem.  My other one failed.  The
spindle broke.  I object to the fact that they work loose due to yielding
at the interface between the cartridge and the ring.  When the remaining
cartridge goes - thats it.  Service on normal bottom bracket spindles
is neither difficult nor significantly more time consuming.  I think that
the differences in apparent drag between Phil and conventional spindles
are inconsequential.

Frank Williams
frank@molbio.cbs.umn.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: gavind@physiol.su.OZ.AU (Gavin Dixon)
Subject: sonicator
Organization: Department of Physiology, University of Sydney, NSW, Australia
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 05:55:44 GMT

Sorry about the ambiguois description of a sonicator...of course what I 
should have said was an ULTRASONICATOR. It is basically a small container
(but big enough to fit either a chain or freewheel) that can be filled with liquid and vibrated with ultrasonic sound frequencies. I use one in the lab to 
mix and dissolve axon-tracing dyes...but occasionally gets filled with
kerosene on a weekend :-)

gavin
From: TOM@SLACVM.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: caged vs. loose bearings
Date: 9 Oct 92 16:25:48 GMT
Article-I.D.: SLACVM.92283.082548TOM
 <1992Oct7.000913.11823@mercury.unt.edu> <Bvr19z.1Lt@watserv1.uwaterloo.ca>
Organization: Stanford Linear Accelerator Center

I was going to have breakfast, but now I'm sick!
From: ldh@svl.cdc.com (Lawrence D. Hare)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Capagnolo Rally adjustment.
Date: 9 Oct 92 17:37:58 GMT
Organization: Control Data Systems
X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1.1d9
X-XXMessage-ID: <A6FB1169D9010456@ethelred.svl.cdc.com>
X-XXDate: Fri, 9 Oct 92 10:37:29 GMT

Coming in to work this morning my chain slipped on the 17 tooth rear cog.
It slipped one tooth and did this about six times over about two miles.
Then it stopped. Never did it before. I have a Sedis chain, new, does not
seem to have any tight links that I can find. Shimano freewheel, 14-34
range. Campagnolo chain wheel, 46 & 52. Campagnolo Rally derailleur on
the rear and front (not rally on the front though). I do hill riding and
commute, I calculated the gearing to give me the best of all worlds. This
is on a 1976 Mondia bike.

Now - the chain has about 200 miles on it and the Campy Rally about 120.
Both are relatively new. It strikes me that the derailleur wrap tension
is weak and I was wondering if the spring can be adjusted. There is a
screw down the side of the spring barrel and I wonder if this may adjust
the spring tension. I am not sure how though and I will have to fiddle.

Before I do this though - any ideas anyone? Could the Sedis and Shimano
be incompatible? They seem to have been very agreeable so far though.
Would tightening the wrap spring on the derailleur be a good idea? If I
increase the tension by hand, it does wrap the chain around the sprocket
more and one would think that this might reduce the tendency to jump.
Then - of course - Can I adjust the spring tension? Is that what the
screw is for? Campy does not believe in too many adjustment screws.

Thanks..
--
Lawrence D. Hare       Control Data - Silicon Valley Operations
Consultant             Voice: (408) 496 4339 - C/N [234] 4339
ldh@svl.cdc.com        Mail: SVLa60  FAX: (408) 496-4106
From: harlow@waikato.ac.nz
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Freewheel Maintanence
Date: 12 Oct 92 09:18:57 +1300
Organization: University of Waikato, Hamilton, New Zealand

Hi,

My freewheel has been making some funny noises so I thought I'd remove it and
give it a clean. Got it off OK with a 10 mm allen key, but then what? Where do
I go from here? How do you get to the bearings, or are these things just not
easily servicable?

Stephen
-- 
Stephen Harlow		   "All over the world men and women are worrying
Chemistry Department	    because they cannot develop as they are
University of Waikato	    supposed to develop... Don't fret yourself...
Hamilton, NZ		    Develop what you have..." E.M. Forster
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech