HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: mark@thor.asteroids (Mark Bakke)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Alarm sirens
Date: 28 Jul 92 21:37:02 GMT
Reply-To: mark@network.com
Organization: Network Systems Corporation

In article 18220@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com, billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson) writes:
>gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston) writes:
>: 
>: Not exactly about sirens, but....
>: 
>: Does anyone out there know the subsonic frequencies that induce fear
>: in someone? Seems like I've read about how the right "sound" can
>: make a person feel absolute terror, the more so because there's no
>: observable reason for it.

I think I know where you read this.  Remember the books about Jupiter
Jones?  Basically about three young ``detectives''.  One of their mysteries
was about a supposedly haunted house that used this technique.

>
>There are no subsonic frequencies that will do that. There are 
>ultrasonic frequencies that will make some people feel uneasy
>or unhappy - there are none that will cause terror in anyone.
>
>What you have read is what they call an urban legend. 

Sounds right to me.  If it really were possible, you could probably deal
with false alarms, since you would know where the feeling is coming
from.  I thinks that's how they dealt with it in the book...

Mark
From: marks@ssdevo.enet.dec.com (Randy Marks)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Metal roofs
Date: 24 Jul 92 00:02:42 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Digital Equipment Corp. - Colorado Springs


In article <1992Jul23.194828.2875@stsci.edu>, davids@stsci.EDU (David Silberberg) writes...
>1. What are the advantages and disadvantages of metal roofs?
Very noisy when it rains (or hails).

> 
>2. What is the best way to permanently get rid of weeds short of making
>    my back yard a paved parking lot?
Go to your local discount dept. store (KMart, etc) and pick up a
weed sprayer and some Roundup concentrate.  Follow directions on bottle.

	Randy Marks
(UUCP)	                {decvax,ucbvax,allegra}!decwrl!ssdevo.enet!marks
(INTERNET)              marks@ssdevo.enet.dec.com
(domain-based INTERNET) marks%ssdevo.enet@decwrl.dec.com
..........................................................................
	"No man's life, liberty, or property is safe
	while the legislature is in session."
..........................................................................
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Which outlet is first on a circuit ?
Reply-To: patter@dasher.UUCP ()
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 92 19:27:43 GMT

In article <1992Jul31.183349.27983@jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca> leath@atlas.cs.upei.ca (Stephen Leath) writes:

>How does one determine which is the first outlet on a circuit ?

In many houses you can trace the wires (in many you can't). If your house
is one of the former, pick an outlet on the circuit and trace wires from it.
Sooner or later, the wire will end at another outlet, dive up a wall, or head
up towards the breaker box.

If you can't see the wires, use trial and error. Disconnect one outlet and
see what goes off. Continue until you're down to one or two.

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: richg@hatch.socal.com (Rich Greenberg)
Subject: Re: ADVICE WANTED:  Changing house outlets from 2 to 3 prongs
Organization: Hatch Usenet and E-mail.  Playa del Rey, CA
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1992 00:52:43 GMT

In article <NUGE.92Jul30115824@newport.med.ge.com> nuge@newport.med.ge.com (James A. Nugent) writes:
>In article <Bs6nAv.720@hatch.socal.com> richg@hatch.socal.com (Rich
>Greenberg) writes:

>> What I use (and all the electricians I have had do work for me use the
>> same thing) is to get a "pigtail" light socket, fasten 2 1 ft lengths
>> of #14 solid wire to it, and strip back about 1/2" on the ends away from the
>> socket.  Make sure that any exposed metal on the socket end is taped over.
>> Use a 100w bulb in the socket.  Touch one wire to the hot side and the

>        I have such a thing (except using a 15W bulb) and have used

The problem with a 15 watt bulb is that it draws a relatively small
current, and a poor or intermittant ground will be less obvious.  The 100
watt bulb draws almost 1 amp, and will better show a poor ground.
An even larger bulb is even better in this respect, but bulbs larger
than 100w are harder to find and more expensive.

-- 
                
Rich Greenberg - N6LRT - 310-649-0238 - richg@hatch.socal.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: FB.MXP@forsythe.stanford.edu (Michelle Pallas)
Subject: Removing mirror tiles
Organization: Stanford University, California, USA
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 16:58:06 GMT

Does anyone have a method for removing mirror-tiles  (about 6"
square adhesive back tiles, the kind with the tacky gold scribbles
on them) that doesn't involve broken glass, or tearing off part of
the wall along with the adhesive?

Please post or email to mpallas@forsythe.stanford.edu

Thanks -
Michelle
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,misc.invest.real-estate
From: drevik@utkvx2.utk.edu (Drevik, Steve)
Subject: Re: building a house
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: University of Tennessee Computing Center
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 13:44:00 GMT

In article <1992Jul27.201412.28828@rtsg.mot.com>, mehrpuya@rtsg.mot.com (Djamschid Mehrpuyan) writes...
> 
>I plan to build a house in the near future by hiring an architect and various
>building contractors.  What I would like to know is what process to go 
>through to build a house.  Here is what I know sofar:
> 
>     1.  Buy some land
>     2.  Hire an architect who will design the house of your dreams
>     3.  Hire contractors (building contractors, electrician, etc)
> 
>I was also told that you need to get a so-called loan package from a bank.
>A loan package consists of a lot loan, construction loan, and a mortgage.
> 
>Are there any books or magazine articles that discuss in detail on how
>to build your own house ?  What is the best real-estate magazine ?
> 
> 
>Thanks for any info
> 
>     -Dj
> 

Get ALL FINANCING details lined up and approved before you go to Step 1.
When I looked at it, here were the financing details in my area (they
change from place to place):

	1.  Purchase Land:  Have enough cash on hand, or put down at
    least 20%.  Most banks wanted more.
        2.  Get Construction Loan:  Requires another 20% down, or the
    abovementioned land FULLY PAID OFF (see "have enough cash on hand")
     as collateral.

Don't forget building permits, excavation permits, liability insurance,
inspections along the way (foundation, electrical, plumbing, etc).

Being your own contractor is really not worth it unless you plan to do
some work yourself(besides paperwork).  The local union probably won't
let you lay brick or block (I would not recommend it anyway), and
I would let experts handle all the foundation work anyway.  You probably
can do framing & carpentry yourself.  Unless you've done it before, I
would let experts do the plumbing (at least routing the lines, you can
put in sinks and appliances yourself) and ALL THE ELECTRICAL work.  Finish
work (drywall, molding, painting) is something you can do or lend a hand
in.  I'd let real carpenters hang the doors and windows.
From: ostroff@Oswego.EDU (Boyd Ostroff)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: fixer-upper advice
Date: 22 Jul 92 17:35:55 GMT
Reply-To: ostroff@oswego.Oswego.EDU (Boyd Ostroff)
Organization: Instructional Computing Center, SUNY at Oswego, Oswego, NY

In article <1992Jul22.144929.19192@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com writes:

>Forget about social life.

>it turns
>out that she's been *dying* to replace the cabinets in the kitchen of
>her condo but doesn't know how. She'll be glad to "help" you if ...

Hey, might be a good line... "How about if I stop by tomorrow night to get some
measurements..." :-)

>And words do not exist to adequately describe the joys of hanging 1/2"
>sheet rock on a cathedral ceiling alone.

I did this myself a couple years ago, not fun but do-able with a little
practice.  Just a few days back I saw an interesting gizmo at the local
"rent-it" place, though.  Can't recall the name, but it was a drywall
"lift".  It had a pivoting 4' wide carriage that you set the sheet on and
then you cranked it up and nailed/screwed it in place.  Sure looked like
it would make covering a ceiling by yourself a lot easier!

.............................................................................
....Boyd Ostroff / Technical Director / SUNY Oswego Department of Theatre....
...............Voice: (315) 341-2987 /  Fax: (315) 341-3394..................
..............ostroff@oswego.oswego.edu / ostroff@cboard.UUCP................
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: pkrause@triton.unm.edu (Paul Krause CIRT)
Subject: Re: Making the first offer for a new house
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 92 22:33:19 GMT
Organization: University of New Mexico, Albuquerque

In article <24JUL199208561410@utkvx2.utk.edu> gadagkar@utkvx2.utk.edu (Gadagkar, Hrishikesh) writes:
                Text deleted.
>at $98500 and the other at $99200. Now what I am wondering is why the builder
>would insist on the appraised value which is $99500 and not be willing to
>come down by as much as $500. 

Now that he has sold two he has some money in the bank and isn't quite
as motivated to sell.  
Paul

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: article@tc.fluke.COM (John F. Berkey)
Subject: Re: On Buying a Trailer/Mobile Home
Organization: John Fluke Mfg. Co., Inc., Everett, WA
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 19:58:05 GMT

> >	Trailers are generally of shoddy/cheap construction, things
> >break down easily, walls are thin, etc.
> 
> Not true.  Quality control is much tighter in a factory than out on a
> job site, and the limited variety means the workers are much less prone
> to errors.  

I disagree with this statement, mobile homes do not have to meet the same codes
that a house must meet, however I will admit that they are building the newer
ones better then before.

> There is a wide range of quality/features.  You get what
> you pay for.  

Very true!!!

> Where they tend to scrimp is on accouterments, wallpaper,
> drapes, carpet, etc.  These can all be upgraded/replaced, with some of
> the 90% of the price of building a new home that is saved.  The
> fundamental construction is sound.
> 

I agree with this, If your going to buy one, UPGRADE, however you can haggle
over the price of the upgrades, don't get taken in on them, some are cheaper to
do your self.

-- 

John Berkey (article)
Chief Quality Specialist
Service Equipment Group
John Fluke Mfg, Co.   

article@tc.fluke.com

Disclaimer: All views and opinions stated here are my own, and in no way
            represent the views of my employer.                        

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: davids@stsci.EDU (David Silberberg)
Subject: Metal roofs
Reply-To: davids@stsci.EDU (David Silberberg)
Organization: Space Telescope Science Institute
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 19:48:28 GMT

I'm new to this group mainly because I'm new to my house.  

1. What are the advantages and disadvantages of metal roofs?

2. What is the best way to permanently get rid of weeds short of making
    my back yard a paved parking lot?
--
David Silberberg			Internet: davids@stsci.edu
Space Telescope Science Institute	    SPAN: SCIVAX::DAVIDS
3700 San Martin Drive			  ATTnet: (410)516-5142
Baltimore, Maryland   21218
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: eliot@chutney.rtp.dg.com (Topher Eliot)
Subject: Financing rehabs
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 92 04:39:02 GMT
Organization: Data General Corporation, RTP, NC.

There is an article about exactly this subject in the current issue of Fine
Homebuilding.
Topher Eliot             Data General DG/UX Systems Administration Development
(919) 248-6371      eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com       {backbone}!mcnc!rti!dg-rtp!eliot
Obviously, I speak for myself, not for DG.
misc.consumers.house archivist.  Send mail to house-archive@dg-rtp.dg.com
From: mark@thor.asteroids (Mark Bakke)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: painting tips?
Date: 28 Jul 92 20:35:48 GMT
Reply-To: mark@network.com
Organization: Network Systems Corporation

In article 5000072@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com, hmoss@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Howard Moss) writes:
>Hi,
>  
>Here's a simple question that has always bugged me: How do you set up
>your wood when your painting? I'm always painting shelves or cabinets and
>I still don't have a good system to use. Is there something I'm missing or
>does everyone just wing it? Usually, its an old cardboard box opened up
>on the ground with 1x2 or 2x2 studs supporting the wood in 2 places. Of course,
>I have to wait for the 1st side to dry before I can do the other side. Do any
>of you try to paint both sides at one sitting?
>
 
Here's a simple method I use when staining and varnishing all
sides of shelves, etc:
 
For small shelves and parts, I just take a suitable-sized piece
of whatever old plywood sheathing or scraps are laying around,
drive a few nails through them, then turn them upside-down to
set the parts to be varnished on.  For large pieces, I make
three of these with one nail each.  I then finish the bottom or
back of the piece first, then set it on the nail points to do
the rest.  The nail points make such small holes that they are
not noticable, and since there is usually more that one coat,
they end up in a different spot for each.
 
Here's an attempt at the picture:
 
   _______________________________________
  |         PIECE TO BE FINISHED          | 
  |_______________________________________|
             ^                 ^ 
            / \               / \ 
            | |               | |
            | |               | |
            | |               | |
            | |               | | 
   _________| |_______________| |_________
  |              SCRAP                    |
  |_______________________________________|


Have fun!

Mark
From: ajg@controls.ccd.harris.com (Arnold Goldberg)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: To close or not to close on a new house with a leak!
Date: 24 Jul 92 15:17:39 GMT
Organization: Harris Controls and Compositions

>>>>> On 23 Jul 92 02:08:09 GMT, mariou@astro.astro.ufl.edu (STG colleague) said:

	STG> Would you people out there close on the house (we had this house
	STG> built hiring an architect etc.)?  My common sense tells me no
	STG> My husband believes that we should perhaps and have faith on the
	STG> buildier that he will find the problem but I believe this is naive.

You've got to be kidding me.  Don't Pay this Guy!!!
 Just read some of the horror stories in misc.consumers day 
and your husband will see the light real fast...

arnold

--
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Arnold Goldberg                            Email:  ajg@ccd.harris.com
Phone: (407)242-5051                       Snail:  Harris Corporation
Fax  : (407)242-4262                               407 John Rodes Blvd.
                                                   Melbourne, FL 32905

The opinions expressed are my own and do not in any way represent Harris 
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Painting Baseboards
Reply-To: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 92 02:51:52 GMT

In article <1992Jul24.212913.11656@ncrcae.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM> cooper@endeavor.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM (Bob Cooper x7429) writes:

>I didn't word my question well enough because of the replies I've gotten.  The 
>problem is once the paint is one the baseboard -- assuming I use some kind of 
>shield to hold the carpet back when I'm painting -- how does one continue to
>hold the carpet back until the paint is dry.  My carpet will spring up and 
>rub the wet baseboard if I don't keep it pulled back somehow.

Maybe I didn't word my reply well enough. Slide wide masking tape down
between the baseboard and the carpet, sticky side towards the room. Then
lay it over on the carpet, pulling it slightly away from the wall. Make
it stick to the carpet. That's what holds the carpet away while the paint
dries. Then use some sort of shield to protect whatever carpet is still
exposed. I have used a wide sheet rock knife in similar situations.

The painter I saw using this technique laid the tape down in short (less
than 3') lengths. Every once in a while a shag fiber would "escape" as
he was taping. No problem - he'd just peel off another piece of tape.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | He who is not a revolutionary at 16 has no heart.
                    | He who is a revolutionary at 60 has no head.
                    |                          Lord Chesterfield
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 10:55:41 EDT
From: Stephen Peterson <SDP2@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Humming Water Pipe
Distribution: usa

I have a subscription to "Workbench". I just received the Sept issue. Its a
"special issue, 35th anniversiary".

I went home after reading about the problem with Humming Water Pipes on the
net and found an article about "banging" water pipes and how to fix them.
I was going to bring the article in and retype it in but, forgot to bring
the magazine to work, (sorry). The article talked about installing some sort
of baffels or diaphram.

I'm not sure if this would solve your problem. The magazine is great and
always has some nice projects in it. If you cant find the magazine at your
local news stand, E-mail me direct and I'll send you the article in the mail.

Steve
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Stephen Peterson                                   SDP2@PSUVM.PSU.EDU
Senior Microcomputer Systems Consultant            814-863-4356
The Pennsylvania State University
University Park, PA 16802
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Home Ethernet
From: gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 92 18:48:56 CDT
Organization: Garys' Home for Obsolete Computers

laird@stable.ecn.purdue.edu (Kyler Laird) writes:

> In article <Brpw0q.4qv@world.std.com> edwards@world.std.com (Jonathan Edwards
> >A recent post in comp.dcom.telecom states that 10BASE-T (twisted pair)
> >Ethernet is not FCC Class B, and in fact generates lots of RFI, making it
> >unsuitable for home use. The poster ran a Thinnet cable loop throughout the
> >house instead.
> >Can anyone comment on this, or suggest alternatives for home LAN wiring?
> 
> I'm interested in this, too.  I'm trying to get a house built and I
> definitely want network cabling installed.
> 
> I suggest looking into _shielded_ twisted pair.  I've run quite a bit at
> work for 10BaseT.  I was told that some cards are optimized for unshielded
> (UTP), but I haven't had any problems with 3COM adapters.
> 
> I suppose you could always go nuts and get individually shielded pairs
> _and_ outer shielding.  That should trap the RF.

Or run it all inside metallic conduit. 

Most likely, the Ethernet traffic isn't going to interfere with anything
else, shielded, unshielded, or coax.

Gary Heston, at home....
gary@cdthq.uucp
From: davidbu@loowit.wr.tek.com (David E. Buxton)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Electrostatic Air Cleaners, self powered
Date: 22 Jul 92 22:06:19 GMT

I have been too busy to follow this newsgroup lately.  So, please email
your responses whether you post or not.  Thanks.

There have been some adds for electrostatic air cleaners that you put in
place of the standard air filter in a forced air system.  These are thin
enough to simply plug in the same space.  The approx $150 dollar ones come
with a line cord to plug into an outlet.  The approx $75 ones don't
have any line cord.  They are somehow self powered and yet claim to be
electrostatic.  Hmmmm.  How does that work?  Can anyone explain?  Can
anyone compair the effectivness of the powered vs self powered versions?
Would you really be able to tell the difference?  If its no better than
a good quality filter how would I know?  My wife has ordered a self
powered one and I'd like to know if its not up to claims so I can send
it back if I'm paying for false claims.

Thanks,

Dave
From: ostroff@Oswego.EDU (Boyd Ostroff)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: fixer-upper advice
Date: 21 Jul 92 18:14:14 GMT
Reply-To: ostroff@oswego.Oswego.EDU (Boyd Ostroff)
Organization: Instructional Computing Center, SUNY at Oswego, Oswego, NY

In article <JEFF.92Jul21091214@claw.clearpoint.com> jeff@fang.clearpoint.com writes:
>
>I have been working on my house for the last 4 years while se are
>living there.  It is hell.

I've been there (hey... I'm *still* there :-) and know exactly what you
mean.  I spent about 4 years living in a "construction site" while we
did major renovation of our bathroom, living room, dining room and kitchen.
Did it all myself with minimal hired help for some of the heavy jobs.
In a way it's like that old cliche about banging your head against the
way... it feels *so good* when you stop.

>If you have small children it is even more fun because they like to

Very true.

>There is
>nothing fun about renovations.  I would not have taken it on if I knew
>what I know today.

I see your point, but have to differ a bit. Working in your "spare time"
it seems to take forever to get a project finished (two years on and off
gutting a kitchen and rebuilding everything from scratch for example).
Still, I have a carpentry background and the needed skills.  If you
*hate* doing this kind of thing, then do yourself a favor and forget it.
If you don't mind spending lots of time and have the skills then you
can save many thousands of dollars, get more of what you really want, 
and have a nice sense of accomplishment when you're done.  As an added
plus, you may actually learn something.  It's also a good excuse to buy
all those tools you've been trying to justify for years :-)  But yep,
it will take a lot longer than you think and you'll get pretty disgusted
with things at some point.

Just recently we had to knock down an old shed which was ready to collapse
and re-build it.  I planned things out pretty well first.  Then I hired
a friend and we worked 12-hours a day for a little over a week and got
it completely finished.  In the past, I would have just tried to do it myself
and it would have taken many months.  This way it was hell (great way to
spend your "vacation") and it cost several hundred for labor but it didn't
take very long.  Even so, I spent a little less than $2000 and it would have
cost twice that to hire a contractor.


.............................................................................
....Boyd Ostroff / Technical Director / SUNY Oswego Department of Theatre....
...............Voice: (315) 341-2987 /  Fax: (315) 341-3394..................
..............ostroff@oswego.oswego.edu / ostroff@cboard.UUCP................