HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: patrick@csdvax.csd.unsw.edu.au
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Aftermarket diesel turbo kit experience wanted
Date: 8 Sep 92 16:35:58 +1000
Organization: University of New South Wales

Hi,
I am interested in hearing peoples experiences with aftermarket turbo
kits for diesel engines.

In particular the engine in question is a Toyota 2.8 litre diesel
(Toyota Engine model 3L)

A local company offers a kit for AUST$3000 that claims 45%-50% increase
in power and 50%-55% increase in torque. They offer a 12 month 20000 Km
waranty and claim that Toyota's new vehicle warranty is not affected. 
Toyota also claims this to be true (including under Extra Care warrenty),
however Toyota also sais that they are not responsible for the kit itself
or damage to engine components _directly_ caused by the kit.

Thanks in advance.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Carburetors, gasoline, and why I don't recycle
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 4 Sep 92 18:20:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * Jacksonville AR USA * 501-985-0059


-> : gallon.  On a news program years ago, I saw a group of college :
-> students who had developed a carburetor that guaranteed at least :
-> 100 miles per gallon of regular unleaded gasoline.

> Here we go again.  What you describe is called an URBAN LEGEND.

 Yup.  It must be that time of year again.

 About five years ago, Motor Trend did a cover story on an engine that
burned water.  Even the SAE's journal got suckered by that one.  After a
few months, they quietly dropped the stories.

 Oh, and don't forget the Smokey Yunick Miracle Motor, or the various
wonder machines burning methane from fermented chicken manure, or any of
dozens of Popular Science specials.
                               
From: maurice@hp-ptp.ptp.hp.com (Maurice Liang)
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 00:19:01 GMT
Subject: Re: SEMA ?
Organization: HP Pacific Technology Park - Sunnyvale, Ca.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

 The SEMA (Specialty Equipment Manufacturer's Association) show details are:

     Date:  November 3,4,5,& 6th 1992
     Place: Las Vegas Convention Center
     Info:  SEMA Headquarters @ (714) 396-0289  (for registration packet)

     Registration is free until October 2.  On-site registration is $20.

     It's a great show if you like auto accessories!

     Maurice
From: gregoret@celeste.mmwb.ucsf.edu (Lydia M. Gregoret)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Good books to learn auto mechanics?
Date: 14 Sep 92 20:18:08 GMT
Organization: UCSF Computer Graphics Lab

"Auto Repair for Dummies" is a good place to start if you want to learn
how a car works and how to talk intelligently with your mechanic when
you do take the car in.  It describes how to do some simple repairs
(and even slightly more complicated ones, like repacking bearings) and
how to troubleshoot.  There are also chapters with tips on buying both
new and used cars and on selling your old car.

I can't remember the author's name, but it's a softcover, plastic 
spiral-bound book.

lmg
From: darrellm@pogo.wv.tek.com (Darrell McGinnis)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 85 chev celebrity
Date: 15 Sep 92 21:50:06 GMT
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Wilsonville,  OR.


>	"the idle will sometimes become eratic"
>
>Congratulations!  You've got the V6 From Hell!  Once again,
>rough/unstable/erratic idling in the GM 2.8L MFI engines from 85 through 88
                                              ^^^
>is due to marginal/defective MAF sensors and a buggy fuel control program.  
>GM has an upgrade program on this that involves bagging the MAF sensor 
>entirely....[deleted stuff]

My 2.8l V6 that exhibits this is a carburated engine. But I'd expect that
the fuel mixture program is similar & has the same sensors.

>Oh yes, I assume you've checked other more
>obvious causes of rough idle like EGR valve operation, PCV, and IAC.

nope.
However, I've noticed the eratic behaviour translate to an eratic
accelerator pedal when on cruise control at a constant speed.

Since cruise is tied to manifold vacuum (I thought) it would seem
to point to a manifold pressure/vacuum sensor problem.

This might also cause/link to improper spark advance (EST/bypass circuit)
causing the 'check engine' to light.


This engine seams to have plenty of poop, its too bad that the engine
management firmware/sensors is the reliability problem.


thanks for the info...
darrellm

--------
Darrell McGinnis				darrellm@pogo.WV.TEK.COM
Tektronix, Inc., P.O. Box 1000, MS 63-356
Wilsonville, OR 97070
(503) 685-3285
--------
From: behanna@phoenix.syl.nj.nec.com (Chris BeHanna)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: DOT3 -> DOT5, how messey ?
Date: 4 Sep 92 22:29:10 GMT
Article-I.D.: research.1992Sep4.222910.2779
Organization: NEC Systems Laboratory, Inc.

In article <9209041801.AA00554@rwasic17.aud.alcatel.com> wpcallah@RWASIC17.AUD.ALCATEL.COM (William Paul Callahan) writes:
>I am considering conversion to DOT5 brake fluid. I am looking for a higher 
>viscosity fluid, and I suspect Silicone is a tad more viscus.  DOT5 is not 
>compatible with 3, or 4; so how clean does the system be prior to the 
>introduction of the 5.  Can I empty the master cylinder, fill it with 5 and 
>pump it into the system (this will be a 2 person job, opening the bleeder, 
>depressing the brake, closing the bleeder, releasing the brake - repeat...).  
>Or - do I have to use a solvent, change the rubbers in the system etc. ?

	You have to use a solvent, change the seals and lines, etc.  All the
rubber parts get contaminated with whatever version of brake fluid you are
currently using.  It is a very bad idea to reuse those old seals when you
change from dot3 or 4 to dot 5 or vice versa.  Dot 3 and 4 are somewhat
compatible, I believe.

	Something to watch out for:  Dot 5 is a real pain in the ass to bleed
(holds a bunch of small air bubbles like McDonald's milkshakes).  It is also
more compressible than dot 3/4.  It also has a bizarre failure mode that is
indistinguishable from boiling brake fluid via pedal feel.

	I have never used a Dot 5 system that didn't feel like mush.  That's
why my Harley will get a complete Dot 3 system when I have the $$$ to upgrade
it.

My $.02,
-- 
Chris BeHanna	DoD# 114   1983 Harley-Davidson FXWG Wide Glide (She lives!)
behanna@syl.nj.nec.com	   (I need another bike for this space!)

Disclaimer:  Now why would NEC agree with any of this anyway?
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: lester@naomi.b23b.ingr.com (Les Bartel)
Subject: Re: disc braks again
Keywords: discs vs drums
Reply-To: lester@naomi.b23b.ingr.com
Organization: Dazix, An Intergraph Company
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 15:01:49 GMT

In article <1992Sep12.182711.24706@cabot.balltown.cma.COM>, welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty) writes:
|> 
|> er, no.  the CF is pretty similar for disk brake pads and drum brake
|> shoes.  power assist is not needed for drums because there is a force
|> multiplying servo action designed into drums; such a force multiplier
|> is not present in disks.

This is correct (according to an article in _Machine Design_ #12 1992
reference issue).  An added note: when the vehicle is moving forward
the servo action tends to engage the front shoe and disengage the back
shoe.  And vice versa when going in reverse.  My guess is this is why
the front shoe is typically larger than the back shoe (you do less
backing than forward, and reverse speeds are much lower than forward
speeds).  Of course, just because the back shoe tends to be disengaged
doesn't mean it doesn't contribute toward the braking effort (it does).

This article also discusses disk and band brakes and brake materials.

 - les

|> 
|> cheers,
|>   richard
|> -- 
|> richard welty                            518-393-7228
|> welty@cabot.balltown.cma.com
|>   ``if you can read this, mario, you're too close''
|>     -- bumper sticker seen on a CART safety truck

-- 
Les Bartel			lester@naomi.b23b.ingr.com
Dazix, An Intergraph Company	uunet!ingr!b23b!naomi!lester
Huntsville, AL			(205) 730-8537

There are three kinds of people in the world:
Those who can count, and those who can't.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: drew@ophelia.cs.colorado.edu (Drew Eckhardt)
Subject: Re: Good books to learn auto mechanics?
Organization: University of Colorado at Boulder
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 1992 18:12:39 GMT

In article <1992Sep11.201020.3113@midway.uchicago.edu> epc1@midway.uchicago.edu writes:
>
>If I were to recommend THE authoratative book on C shell scripts, I 
>would recommend The C Shell Fild Guide;  on C programming language, 
>K & R's The C Programming Language;  on motif programming, Heller's
>Motif programming Guide; on investments, Graham's The Intelligent
>Investor....
>
>
>What is/are THE authoritative book/s on automobile mechanics.  I would
>like to learn both theory and practical instruction.  My goal
>is to be better than 80% of the auto mechanics.  How do auto mechanics
>learn their trade?  (besides hands-on experience).
>
>Any help would be appreciated.
>Thanks.

Being a good auto mechanic takes several simple skills :

1.  Knowing how to read.  If you can read, you can follow the diagnostic 
	procedures outlined in the shop manual.  I mean the REAL shop
	manual for your vehicle, not the Chilton's.  If you follow 
	the procedure to the letter, you won't swap out any good parts,
	and will expend a minimum amount of effort tracing down
	the problem.   

	One of my friend's had his Trans Am die in the driveway, and 
	would crank, but not start.  He asked some local auto-parts stores / 
	mechanics what they thought was wrong, and ended up replacing the coil
	for ~$20.  Still didn't work.  

        I came by, whipped out the shop manual, saw that there was power on 
	the low voltage side of the distributor, none (plug wire against the 
	block test) on the high voltage side, measured a few resistances 
	according to the shop manual and determined that the electronics 
	module in the HEI distributor was bad, the pickup coil
	was good, and the coil he replaced was good - all inside 
	of five minutes.   

	These things look like flow charts, and are real easy to follow
	if you have anything beyond a sixth grade education :-)

2.  Knowing the business end of a screwdriver, socket wrench, etc,
	and using the right tool for the job.  If you don't 
	own the right tool, remember that you can probably 
	buy it and complete the repair for far less than 
	the cost of a "real" mechanic's labor, and you'll have the 
	right tool for the job the next time.

	For non-intuitive things, like welding, you can often 
	take a class at the local community college.

3.  Knowing where the best junk yards are in your area.  You can 
	buy parts DIRT CHEAP at the junkyard.  Try $5 for 
	a power steering gearbox, $10 for a quadrajet carb, 
	etc.  You will get the best prices if you can drool, come covered in 
	grease, and look like a redneck.  
	
-- 
Microsoft is responsible for propogating the evils it calls DOS and Windows, 
IBM for AIX (appropriately called Aches by those having to administer it), but 
marketing's sins don't come close to those of legal departments.
Boycott AT&T for their absurd anti-BSDI lawsuit.
From: fmlin@terapin.com (Frank M. Lin)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: California legal stuff...
Date: 7 Sep 92 01:17:41 PST
Organization: BBS

How does the law work in California?  I mean, can you do whatever you want to
your car as long as it can pass the smog test?  If so, is it possible to buy a
V-TEC ( Honda Civics ) engine from Japan, and install it?

I have a 1992 Infiniti G20.  I beleive the engine is same as the Nissan Sentra
SEi ( whatever, the highest one... ).  Stock engine is rated at 140hp.  I am
thinking about getting a new high volume air filer ( K&N or something... ), and
exhaust ( Borla, ANSA, HKS... which is better? ).  How much performace increase
can be expected?

Thanx.

frank m. lin
fmlin@terapin.com
cyprus systems
From: mikeb@nowaksg.chem.nd.edu (Michael George Buening)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Battery Technology for EVs
Keywords: EDTA battery
Date: 4 Sep 92 19:10:36 GMT
Organization: University of Notre Dame

In article <1992Aug31.104957.8281@en.ecn.purdue.edu> ghg@en.ecn.purdue.edu (George Goble) writes:
>In article <c+hnrma@dixie.com> jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond) writes:
>>Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory) writes:
>>
>>
>>>The same thing occurred to me. I've been trying to get some EDTA for some time
>>>now. 
>>
>>Assuming EDTA is Ethylene Diamine Tetraacetic Acid, it's as easy as a
>>call to a couple of sources.  Fisher Scientific has Reagent grade EDTA
>>for $22 per 500g.  Minimum order is $100 and they're pricks to deal with
>>unless you're Fortune 500, Big Governemnt or Big Education.  The second
>>source is Strem Chemicals.  This is a delightful little company to deal
>>wtih and they have EVERYTHING.  Their price is $39 per 500g or $10.50
>>per 100g.  (These guys have BuckyBalls and a variety of high temperature
>>superconductor materials.)  Tel 508 462 3191.  
>>
>>Before ordering, you should know that there are alkali metal compounds
>>of EDTA.  You really need to know whether the magic battery goop is 
>>pure EDT acid or one of these compounds.  The compounds are lots cheaper
>>so there is financial incentive too.
>>
>>If you're really serious and figure out which compound you need and cannot
>>order any other way, contact me.  I have accounts with both companies.
>>
>>John
>
>EDTA won't fix dead or shorted cells, but it can sometimes help badly
>sulfated cells.  Home Power magazine reports no ill effects anyhow.
>They reccommend using about 1 tablespoon per 1 qt of electrolyte.
>First dissolve it in a small amount of distilled H2O, then add that to the
>battery.  It doen't dissolve in acid very well.
>
>You can credit card order EDTA from Trailhead supply, 801-225-3931.
>It is 10/lb, postpaid.  It is a white powder, also called tetrasodium salt.
>I haven't used any, but got some and gave it to a friend with an electric
>tractor (7-year old battery).. It greatly improved the weak cells for him
>--ghg

You *must* make sure what form you want.  First you say you buy EDTA and
then you say it is also called tetrasodium salt.  Although I am not sure
what function the EDTA is performing in a "badly sulfated" cell but if you
need the tetrasodium salt then you had better ask for it specifically.  The
Free acid will most likely not like the acid of the battery at all.  The
sodium salt will ionize in water and then can be added to the battery in 
small amounts without the risk of precipitation.  Can anyone out there tell
me what the EDTA(Na4) is actually doing in the battery?

				--Michael Buening
				internet:mikeb@nowaksg.chem.nd.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rpeck@pure.com (Ray Peck)
Subject: '92 Escort GT / Mazda 1.8l 16v question
Organization: Pure Software, Los Altos, CA
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 00:30:12 GMT

For engines that I am familiar with that have common racing uses
(e.g., Cleveland and Windsor 351s), remote oil filter sends are
available.  These let you use a larger (or 2 larger) than stock oil
filters.

Having just spent more time finding and removing the filter on my new
Escort GT than I to to perform the entire oli change on my 351CJ, and
finding that the oil filter is only slightly larger than a thimble, I
would very much like to get one of these for my new transportation.
Is there some wonderful source of go fast/etc parts for these Japanese
engines?  I haven't looked at a Ford Motorsports catalogue yet. . .
There could be one in there. . .

Any references are welcome, whether Ford, Mazda, or quality 3rd party.

-- 
Ray Peck						rpeck@pure.com
Pure Software						415-903-5100
2111 Grant Road
Los Altos, CA, 94024
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: aefron@cornerstone.com (Andrew Efron)
Subject: Kendall motor oil--opinions??
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Reply-To: aefron@cornerstone.com (Andrew Efron)
Organization: Cornerstone Research, Cambridge, Mass.
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 20:20:25 GMT

What are people's experiences with Kendall oil?  I've heard it's highly 
regarded but I'd like to get some more opinions.

Andy


-----------------------------------------------------------------------
"I didn't do it to make history.  You do something that you want to 
do or feel you have to do, because you like it and love it.  And if 
it turns out to be history, well, so what?"

			--Carroll Shelby, from "The Cobra-Ferrari Wars, 1963-1965"


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,sci.environment,sci.chem
From: mikeb@nowaksg.chem.nd.edu (Michael George Buening)
Subject: Re:  Hydrides
Organization: University of Notre Dame
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 15:49:02 GMT

In article <1992Sep9.082509.4474@bb1t.monsanto.com> bjgaed@bb1t.monsanto.com writes:
>hrubin@pop.stat.purdue.edu (Herman Rubin) writes:
>
>>>In article <1992Sep7.173612.27505@news.nd.edu> mikeb@nowaksg.chem.nd.edu (Michael George Buening) writes:
>>>>In article <1992Sep4.181003.19528@ttinews.tti.com> kevin@drogges.tti.com (Kevin Carothers) writes:
>>>>>In article <2AA544AE.27353@ics.uci.edu> craigm@ics.uci.edu (Craig MacFarlane) 
>writes:
>
>			......................
>
 [Whole bunch of stuff deleted for space]

>The "hydrides" you are speaking of are *transition metal* 
>hydrides.  These have the happy property of binding hydrogen 
>very weakly as hydride.

Call me sensitive but as a chemists I feel compelled to educate.
Sodium and lithum **are not** transition metals.  They are alkalai 
metals and have vastly different properties than the transition metals
in many instances.

[more stuff deleted]
  
>We could 
>go into a long debate on whether the hydrogen really 
>undergoes reduction to hydride, or whether molecular 
>hydrogen is really adsorbed on the surface of the metal 
>sponge, but I don't think you folks would be all that 
>interested.  Suffice it to say that the hydrogen is bound in 
>a form that will not undergo catastrophic release if the 
>tank breaks or is shot at by terrorists or myopic deer 
>hunters.
>
I think that debates such as these are of utmost importance to
the feasibility of using H as fuel but I agree that they probably
don't belong in this group.

>In the long run, however, it is the "other" energy sources 
>that show the most promise.  If we can generate hydrogen 
>from sunlight and water at any sort of efficiency at all, we 
>will have a good shot at achieving a truly non-polluting, 
>very long-term (almost inexhaustible) energy source for 
>vehicular transportation.  Wind power, tidal power, etc., 
>also are possibilities.
>
>-- 
>--Electric Monk            (Bruce Gaede); 
>                            e-mail: bjgaed@ccmail.monsanto.com
>
>"...and then time started seriously to pass."
>--Douglas Adams, _Dirk Gently's Holistic Detective Agency_

When you figure out how to effeciently store and then use this type
of energy let me know and I will invest my life savings in the system.
(Not a flame but a real offer; just my $0.02 worth, literally:-))

		--Mike
		internet:mikeb@nowaksg.chem.nd.edu



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty)
Subject: Re: Handbrakes /discbrakes
Organization: New York State Institute for Sebastian Cabot Studies
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 20:39:48 GMT

In article <715525312.F00001@blkcat.UUCP> Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory) writes:
> EV> After spending some time under my two Alfa's (with inboard rear discs)
> EV> I wondered how the general solution is for braking with the handbrake
> EV> on rear discs. Since I only drive rotten old $200 cars, none have ever
> EV> had rear discbrakes. :-)

>The Alfisti say you should _avoid_ using the handbrake on your model Alfas.

i've never had any serious trouble with the handbrake on my alfa, which
is similar to the one under discussion here.  yes, the adjustors are a
pain in the neck, and they'll eventually freeze up (at 98,000 miles mine
are becoming bothersome.)  however, they'll probably freeze up about the
time that the outer dust boots on the pistons wear out, so it's caliper
rebuild time anyway.  this next advice will be useless unless you're in
north america, but the only reliable rebuilder of these calipers that
i know of is Don Ereminas at Ereminas Imports in CT; i do not plan to
attempt this rebuild myself when the time inevitably comes.

> EV> The Alfa system is a disaster: some treaded rod pushes only
> EV> the inner pad to the disc, which _bends_ to make contact with the outer 
> EV> pad.

>I find that hard to believe. More likely, the outer piston is frozen.

i agree; this is a fixed caliper system with two pistons.  the outer
adjustor has a bizarre locknut system which eventually freezes up despite
the plastic cover that is supposed to be on it.  there is a special tool
for turning the locknut while holding the adjustor; you can make one with
a socket and a pair of vice grips too.

cheers,
  richard
-- 
richard welty                            518-393-7228
welty@cabot.balltown.cma.com
  ``if you can read this, mario, you're too close''
    -- bumper sticker seen on a CART safety truck
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: supercharged vehicle
From: derek@nezsdc.icl.co.nz (Derek Tearne)
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 92 01:37:33 GMT
Organization: Fujitsu New Zealand

In article <92258.010211QXF1@psuvm.psu.edu> <QXF1@psuvm.psu.edu> writes:
>In article <n097bt@ofa123.fidonet.org>, Larry.Mc.Donald@ofa123.fidonet.org says:
>...
[some details of chevy prototype tank driven supercharger deleted]
>>... would be fed with the ***3000 psi*** ....
>>... When the tank was depleted, the
>>compressor would 'kick' back in and refill the tank. This gave about
>>15 seconds of boost to the engine.... 

>>   Chevy extensively tested this system, had great luck with it,
>>then buried it.
>>

>
>I am not familiar with superchargers. But that 3000psi sure made me nervous. It
>is about the pressure of those bottled gases that I deal everyday in my lab.
>Something with this level of pressure should be handled very carefully. I
>believe this tank will kill the driver like a bomb if the car crashes. Don't
>forget the pressure inside the cyclinder is just about 200psi and four of them
>will be enough to drive a several thousand pound car up to 85 mph.

Perhaps these are the reasons this project was buried.  A whole 15 seconds
of boost probably didn't warrant such dangerous equipment.  That coupled 
with what happens after 15 seconds - just as you have almost overtaken that
really long truck and theres a car coming towards you at 70 miles an hour
and - woah wheres the power gone... Blam - thousands of dollars of panel 
damage.  Fortunately there is no air left in the tanks to explode!

Might have drag racing applications but I don't think it sounds like the
sort of thing most people would want in their cars.


-- 
Derek Tearne. -- derek@nezsdc.icl.co.nz --  Fujitsu/ICL New Zealand -- 
Some of the more aware dinosaurs were worried about the environmental
consequences of an accident with the new Iridium enriched fusion reactor.  
"If it goes off only the cockroaches and mammals will survive..." they said.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech