HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Medium format - buying advice wanted
From: Stafford@Vax2.Winona.MSUS.EDU (John Stafford)
Date: 6 Nov 92 15:31:59 -0600
Followup-To: rec.photo
Distribution: world
Organization: MSUS

In article <1992Nov4.202012.1167@ryn.mro4.dec.com>,
faust@faust.enet.dec.com () wrote:
> 
> I have heard from a fellow photographer here at Digital that there tends to be
> excessive mirror vibration at the slower speeds (I think it was 1/15 to 1/60)
> which caused noticable unsharpness in the negatives. He ended up checking 
> this with a Pentax engineer who worked on the 6x7, and he stated it was a 
> known problem. He has since sold the camera, as most of his work fell in this
> range.

I swapped my old body for the one with the mirror lock-up and it helped
fix the vibration-at-low-speeds problem.
From: thos@suite.sw.oz.au (Thomas Cohen)
Subject: Wide angle lenses, cost/performance question (+Tamron 28-200)
Organization: Softway Pty Ltd
Date:  8 Nov 92 23:01:30 GMT


Howdy netters. I have a slight problem known as 'lack of available
funds'. This is not just my problem - I share it with many Governments,
but it does lead me to do some things that aren't optimal in the long
run - buying a wide angle lens is a case in point.

I use a Nikon FA, currently sporting a Tamron SP 35-210 which is a 
useful lens (except for its weight and size - the new 28-200 is _much_
more handy, but so light it seems flimsy - anyone out there got one
with any comments on it?)

I want to get a 24mm lens - 2nd hand Nikkor lenses are about $5/600
(remember I'm in Australia) and a new Sigma lens is $170. The question
I have is that while I'm sure the Nikkor is better built and probably
has better optics, how much real difference is there?

thanks andregards,
-- 
thos cohen  				       |Softway Pty Ltd
"It's not so bad to be a lair but a conniving  |ACSnet:         thos@softway.oz
 egomaniac is not really that socially accept- |UUCP: ...!uunet!softway.oz!thos
 able."  SMH, 2 Nov 92, P. Keating vs J. Hewson|Internet:    thos@softway.oz.au
From: kjm@ubbpc.tredydev.Unisys.COM (Ken J. McFadden)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Misleading Ads - Canon EF-M, Beach Camera
Date: 5 Nov 92 18:13:01 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Unisys UNIX Portation Center, Blue Bell, PA

In article <1992Nov4.150736.11290@jarvis.csri.toronto.edu> acs@csri.toronto.edu (Alvin Chia-Hua Shih) writes:
>Nikon has a similar beast.  Here's the blurb in the Del's ad:

>  N6000 New ....... $289 Cheap!

>  The N6000 is a decent camera.  It is an N6006 w/o AF & w/o matrix.  It
>  does need AF lenses, however - odd for a non-AF camera.  Please buy

Wrong!  MF lenses work just fine, as long as they are not pre-AI.

---
Ken McFadden  Unisys Corporation  Open Systems Marketing Services
tredysvr!ubbpc!kjm@gvls1.gvl.unisys.com  (215) 986-3326
Hah! You thought I was gone for good, didn't you???  8^)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: TSOS@uni-duesseldorf.de (Detlef Lannert)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: a problem with Zoom-Nikkor 50-135/Fujichrome 100
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 14:01:37 GMT
Organization: Universitaetsrechenzentrum, Heinrich-Heine-Universitaet, Duesseldorf
NNTP-Posting-Host: lannert.rz.uni-duesseldorf.de

In article <1992Nov3.225314.21477@dartvax.dartmouth.edu> Jimmy.Tung@dartmouth.edu (Jimmy Tung) writes:

>Check to see if all of the aperature leaves (or whatever they're
>called) are operating correctly.  My housemate had one of the
>retaining/pivotting pins on a leaf shear off, resulting in underexposed
>vacation slides, at least when using that lens. :-(  I'm not sure if he
>had viginetted slides, an underexposed region in the image, or an
>evenly unexposed image.  If you shake the lens around, any loose pieces
>might be heard rattling about.  Next, try looking at the aperature
>mechanism while looking directly down the lens with the camera back
>open.

A damaged aperture stop should only cause underexposure (or over-, if it
doesn't close) evenly over the whole picture, no vignetting or partial 
"misexposure". (Before someone flames me: There *can* be minor optical
problems if the aperture is not quasi-circular, but you'd hardly notice
them at first sight. [All experts agreed?])

Looking through the lens, though, might be a good idea; if the aperture
is fully open, you should be able to see the whole opening from all
directions within the angle of view. If there are any obtrusions then
you have spotted where the problem is.

But probably the reason is, as another poster suggested, a drop/bump/
knock on the lens, and some element is loose or out of place. It's
unlikely that you can see this from the outside (any dents?).

>Good luck.

Yup, I wish you the same.
--
Detlef Lannert      DC3EK      E-Mail: tsos@rz.uni-duesseldorf.de
"Gedanken sind nicht stets parat,
man schreibt auch, wenn man keine hat."             Wilhelm Busch
From: levine@xerox.com (Joel Levine)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Rollei & Sigma News
Date: 5 Nov 92 16:13:59 GMT
Article-I.D.: parc.1992Nov5.161359.5368
Reply-To: levine@xerox.com
Organization: Xerox PARC

From the November issue of Photo District News, an article on Photokina:

"The biggest news in medium format cameras was Rollei's replacement of its 6008 SLR with an upgraded verison, the 6008 SCR 1000. It is the first leaf shutter 120 camera to offer a top shutter speed of 1/1000 second when used with four new PQS-designated lenses; the Zeiss 50mm f/2.8 and 250mm f/5.6 and two Schneider's: an APO 90mm f/4.0 macro and 80mm 2.8. The SCR designation refers to this camera's ease of integration with Rollei's Digital Scan back, helped along further by the addition of a new TV link vi



ewfinder."

and

"Some other interesting optics included an all-in-one 28-200 f/3.8-5.6 aspherical zoom from Tamron, an 8mm f/4.0 180 degree circular fisheye from Sigma along with an 18mm f/3.5 and at the other extreme, an APO 800mm f/5.6"
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: bbooth@x400gate.bnr.ca (Brad Booth)
Subject: Re: Toronto developers
Originator: bbooth@bcrks6
Reply-To: bbooth@x400gate.bnr.ca (Brad Booth)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd, Ottawa
Distribution: ont
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 19:26:57 GMT


Stephanie Moskal Fysh wrote:
> I'm a fairly new amateur photographer, looking for good (preferably
> inexpensive) film developers in Toronto (west end or downtown), esp.
> for colour prints and b&w.  Any info. welcome, incl. places to avoid.

Photo Life (which is a Canadian photo magazine) recently did an article
on the "best" labs to use.  I think it was the October or November 
issue.  If you can't find the issue, email me and I'll send you the
information.


Happy shooting,

    __o     Brad Booth              | "I want you
  _`\<,_    Bell-Northern Research  |  to know me only as
 (*)/ (*)   Ottawa, Ontario, Canada |  what I believe I am."
----------  bbooth@x400gate.bnr.ca  |     ... Fiftyfour-40
From: hpb@hpb.cis.pitt.edu (Harry Bloomberg)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Sharpness
Keywords: Sharp
Date: 5 Nov 92 20:00:56 GMT
Organization: University of Pittsburgh

In article <1992Nov5.152515.2439@ryn.mro4.dec.com> faust@faust.enet.dec.com () writes:
>
>Here is how to do a quick [sharpness] test;  (abbreviated version...)
>
>	Buy a roll of film. Whatever you used before should be fine, and will
>	give you apples to apples comparison
>
   I think it does matter which kind of film is used to test sharpness.

   I'd select a slow slide film for the following reasons:

   - With slide film, you get exactly what you shot without the
"interpretation" of the printer.  It's possible that the lab's enlarger
is out of focus or is otherwise goofing up the prints.

   - A thin (under exposed) negative will usually result in a flat,
grainy print that will have low apparent sharpness.  Judging a camera's
metering system from a negative is difficult; with a slide, you'll know
immediatly if you're getting bad exposures.

   - All things being equal, a slow fine-grained film will appear
sharper than a fast, grainy emulsion.  You'll also see much more fine detail
of your test image.

   - Because a slide is a positive image, it's easier to make sense out
of the image by examining it under a loupe.  Examining negatives,
expecially color negatives, takes a lot of practice.

   Otherwise, I thought the testing guidelines presented here are
excellent.

Harry Bloomberg
hpb@vms.cis.pitt.edu
From: sdpage@andersen.co.uk (Stephen Page)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Cibachrome printing - HELP!
Date: 14 Nov 92 01:51:05 GMT
Organization: Andersen Consulting (UK Practice)

I recommend using a drum processor (e.g. Jobo CPA-2) because the Cibachrome
chemistry gives off fairly nasty fumes.

Exercise caution when selecting imags to print. Contrasty images can exceed the
capacity of the paper - in theory you should decide whenyou compose the
image whether it is for printing or projection. 

Don't expect the processing to be cheap. Cibachrome is VERY expensive.

Good luck.
From: rkatos@hpunila.MSR.HP.COM (Ray Katos)
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 21:30:53 GMT
Subject: Re: Calculating exposure with wide-angle lens
Organization: Hewlett Packard Sales, Naperville IL
Newsgroups: rec.photo

The focal length of the lens shouldn't make any difference.  The lens
may be defective or simply have incorrect f numbers on it.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au
Subject: Re: SCUBA questions (new Ektachrome + Nikon Action Touch)
Organization: Curtin University of Technology
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 14:36:01 GMT

In article <PHILG.92Nov7171443@zug.ai.mit.edu>, philg@zurich.ai.mit.edu (Philip Greenspun) writes:
> 
> Two questions:
> 
> 1) Does anyone know when the new Kodak SCUBA Ektachrome will be
> available?  Has anyone ever seen it either here or in Europe (where
> Kodak lately seems to be introducing its best stuff first rather than
> here in the Third World)?  I leave for the Great Barrier Reef on Dec
> 11th and I'd like to get some by then.
> 

Have you more details? Ill ask Kodak over here for you... Are you just visiting
the east, or are you crossing the 'great divide' and comming over west?

~Paul

Newsgroups: rec.photo,misc.wanted
From: vhs6r@kelvin.seas.Virginia.EDU (Victor Hsiao-yu Shao)
Subject: WANTED: Nikkor lenses
Keywords: lenses, nikon
Organization: University of Virginia
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 15:46:36 GMT

I'm trying to build up my collection of lenses, since I don't have that
many at all.  What I'm looking for in particular is a Nikkor 85mm f/1.8 
AI (or AIS) and a Nikkor 28mm f/2.8 AI (AIS).  I'd also consider other 
kinds (AFs) or other focal lengths.  Please leave me a message if you 
are thinking about selling some Nikkor lenses.  Thanks.


Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: lswab@x400gate.bnr.ca (Lyndon Swab)
Subject: Re: Minox feature list
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.,
Date: 13 Nov 92 14:15:59 GMT

>>>>> "D98O" == Jochen Fuehrer <D98O@br1.hrz.th-darmstadt.de> writes:
  D98O> Nntp-Posting-Host: br1.hrz.th-darmstadt.de

  [...]
  D98O> Minox feature list 
  [...]
  D98O> automatic exposure timer 1s-1/500s

The 35GT has a maximum shutter duration of 30 sec.  However, it is
limited by the amount of light the camera can detect. If memory serves
me correct, it will stay open for 30 sec with ASA 25 film, or 8 sec
with ASA 100 film.

  [...]

  D98O> at least the GT and GL are said to have quality problems and are not so
  D98O> reliable. I have a GL and a MB, both work fine. 
  D98O> Anybody with other experiences?

Well, my GT is in the shop right now with a loose connection.  Ask
again in a year.

  D98O> Jochen         d98o@br1.hrz.th-darmstadt.de
  D98O>   

--
Lyndon Swab     lswab@bnr.ca, (613) 763-7165, ESN 393-7165
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: ray@anaconda.cis.ohio-state.edu (william c ray)
Subject: Re: Light leak with long exposure
Organization: The Ohio State University Dept. of Computer and Info. Science
Distribution: rec
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 20:25:50 GMT

In article <MAS.92Nov9101048@mipl8.jpl.nasa.gov> mas@mipl8.jpl.nasa.gov (Marc Sarrel) writes:
>
>I own a relativly new (< 6 mo) 8008s.  (deleted long exp data)
>I remembered to put the little eye-peice cap on
>(at least most of the time), but I still got lots of light leak on the
>edges of the film, towards the sprocket holes.
>
>One idea that I had is that light could be leaking in through the
>backlight window for the viewfinder display.  Has anyone noticed this?
>
>Is it possible that there is something wrong with my shutter?
>

Are you _sure_ that it is a light leak problem?  The eyepeice cap
is for blocking light to the exposure sensor in the pentaprism during
long exposures.  It has nothing whatsoever to do with preventing light
from reaching the film.  Nor would light entering the viewfinder
through the backlight window have any way of reacing the film (barring
a badly damaged shutter and mirror combination, which doesn't sound
like the problem from your description... specifically) You say that
the light leak occurred around the sprocket holes:  This implies that
if indeed it was a light leak (which I'm not convinced it is), that
the light was not coming through the shutter window. You should see
a clean, sharp delineation between the area of film inside the shutter
area and that outside.  If (and only if) the light leak evidence is
_stronger_ inside the window, but extends outside the edges of the
intended window, was the light coming through the shutter window.

It's also rather unlikely that a light leak from a defective back
seal would cause fogging at the sprocket holes, rather, the pattern
would most likely be a series of vertical bars, sharper on one
edge, and fading out on the other, extending all the way across
the film at regular intervals, or alternatively, badly fogged
film edges.  (actually, it would be possible for a leak at
the take-up end to shine _through_ the sprocket holes and leave
streaks which match up to the sprocket holes... I suppose that
is a possibility).

Anyway, I'm not at all convinced that your problem is really a
light leak, so why don't you post a more detailed description
of the symptoms, and see if the collective net.wisdom can 
figure it out.

Will Ray
ray@cis.ohio-state.edu
From: robert@sys.sweden.dg.com (Robert Claeson)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Embarrassed with Ektachromes
Date: 9 Nov 92 08:28:31 GMT
Organization: Data General AB, Akalla, Sweden

In article <Bwx6q8.H6t@access.digex.com>, terryfry@access.digex.com (Terry Fry) writes:

> Well, yes.  But, that's still why people use Kodachrome, it has SOME archival
> ability.

However, if you intend to project your Kodachrome slides or otherwise
expose them to the light after they've been processed, they'll fade
very quickly.

-- 
------------------------------ END OF MESSAGE ------------------------------
Robert Claeson                Internet: robert@sys.sweden.dg.com
Data General AB                         robert@sys.dg.se
Box 28                             CEO: robert@sys.sweden.dg.com:dg-smtp
S-164 93 KISTA                     Tel: +46 (0)8-92 55 00
Sweden                             Fax: +46 (0)8-751 36 22
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: deng@fiveup.cs.unm.edu (Deng)
Subject: Re: Medium format - buying advice wanted
Organization: Computer Science Department, University of New Mexico
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 22:34:33 GMT

In article <1ddk2bINN9kl@iraul1.ira.uka.de> uli@i13d5.ira.uka.de (Uli Bodenhausen) writes:
>
>Something that I don't like about the Pentax is that one can't choose
>shutter speeds between full stops (like 1/90th). The only way is to
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Is there anybody can tell me which camera that the shutter speed can be set
between the two stops manually? It would be a great progress in camera design.

>adjust the aperture.
>
>Another thing that I would like to know is the rule of thumb for
>save shutter speeds with medium format: Is it 
>
>	1/(#focal lenght in mm)       [as for 35mm cameras]
>
>	or is it
>
>	2/(#focal lenght in mm) ????  
>
>I slightly remember that the Pentax manual recommends the latter, but I've read
>different opinions on the net.
>
>	Uli
Y.B.D.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: acs@csri.toronto.edu (Alvin Chia-Hua Shih)
Subject: AF stops at f/5.6 (was Re: 9xi Re-Visited)
Date: 7 Nov 92 02:16:47 GMT

In <1981@intermec.UUCP> jay@intermec.com (Jay Schlegel x6878) writes:

>    I'm glad Minolta didn't put a f/5.6 limit on AF as per Nikon/Canon.
> While AF is slower at f/7.2 than with shorter lenses, it's still
> quite good in reasonable light.  On the 7xi, hunting is usually a
> problem only when shooting in quite dim light.

>    The AF speed difference is also quite noticable with the 100-300 xi
> lens, with the 7xi typically *zipping* right into focus.

I'm pretty peeved with the f/5.6 limitation.  (I own an EOS.)  Maybe it
was put in long ago with good intentions when AF was young.  Maybe the
older sensors couldn't cope with anything smaller than f/5.6 and would
therefore burn batteries, but these days, like you say, it should work
in *some* cases.

If Canon and Nikon are worried about burning batteries, I think it
makes sense to give the user the choice!  Make a custom function that
can leave AF on regardless of max aperture!

Oh well.  I guess the marketing people are worried that nobody wants to
wade through 500 pages of user manual to figure out their camera.  They
want to make all the decisions for us.  (Bleh!)

Anybody ever tried complaining to a company because of braindamaged
limitations?  More importantly, did it work!?!

ACS
-- 
 ___ ___ ___ ______________________________________________________________
|   |   | __|      Democracy is not a way of getting better solutions.     |
| - | --|__ |           It's just a way to spread the blame.               |
|_|_|___|___|______________________________________________________________|
Alvin_C._Shih____________________acs@csri.utoronto.ca______________________|
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: filters,....
From: mandayrv@ucunix.san.uc.edu (Prince of Wales)
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 13:53:34 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: University of Cincinnati

Hi folks

A few days back I purchased a promotional package offered by ILFORD:
25 sheets of ILFORD multigrade III RCdeluxe with a packet of 12 3.5" x 3.5"
filters and a handbook of black and white printing control techniques. 

After opening the package I realized that there was no way that I could
currently use the filters since my enlarger does not have a large enough
filter holder to accomodate these filters either between the lens and the
light source or below the lens and the negative carrier. I was a bit pissed
off, but then I started thinking "where else can I use these filters?"
That was when it hit me. 

I have been planning on getting CC025M and CC05M filters for my 4x5 
set up. I had delayed purchasing them for a variety of reasons primarily 
because I had to mail order them and I did not feel like ordering just 
one or two filters. However, on going through the graded filters, I noticed
that the ILFORD filters #4, #4.5 and #5 had a distinct Magenta color. I then
realized that I could use these as the filters for my 4x5 set up. Matter of
fact, I could also use the other filters #0 through #3.5 for other color
corrections needed with my 4x5 setup. 

My questions are: 

1) 	Does anybody have any experience in this kind of setup? 

2)	Is there any particular chroma value  --  I will explain that in a 
	minute -- that I should attribute to each filter. By chroma value here 
	is what I mean: The filter #4 looks like CC025M while the filter #5 
	looks like CC05M. The values 025 and 05 are what I refer to as chroma 
	value (I may be wrong in the terminology I chose, pardon my ignorance). 
	Is there any correlation between the filter number and the chroma value?

Thanks to all the folks who respond.

ramanand
-- 
ramanand@pumpkin.ece.uc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: hyunj@crockett1a.its.rpi.edu (John Hyun)
Subject: Want to buy a Canon FD lens (200+ mm, telephoto or zoom)
Keywords: Buy, Canon FD
Reply-To: hyunj@rpi.edu
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY.
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1992 09:48:30 GMT

Hello, I am interested in buying some Canon FD lenses.
If you or anybody you know is interested in selling
some lenses, in the 200+ mm focal length range,
please e-mail me. I qould particularly like a good
300 or 400 mm lens. Independent lens makers for Canon
are fine.

-hyunj@rpi.edu
From: eric@Autodesk.COM (Eric Lyons)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: PhotoCD: No flames, just Gamma...
Date: 6 Nov 92 20:50:24 GMT
Organization: Autodesk Inc., Sausalito CA, USA

Without mention of my opinions on patentable file formats or software, I have 
what I believe is a very legitimate reason for using Hadmut's code vs. the
Kodak toolkit, both of which I have experience with. If Kodak can fix this 
problem, I'd gladly go on using their toolkit, but we've had virtually zero
response from them on the issue.

As you may know, the PhotoYCC format is encoded in a way compatible with video
broadcast standards; in particular CCIR 706 (or 701, I forget).  This standard
embodies a standard gamma for television displays, namely about 2.2. PhotoYCC
data are encoded with this gamma, but through its compansion technique it
assures that there is plenty of dynamic range for photographic reproduction.
Thus, they avoid having to apply gamma in the CD player when displaying on 
television, and still retain good image density range for photographic app-
lications.

Unfortunately, computer image processing algorithms rely on "linear" image
data for proper operations; gamma correction is done only at the display
stage.  Thus, PhotoCD data must be "de-gamma corrected" before being used in
RGB form (I 'spose I should note that this is all relavent to RGB data).
While it is trivially easy to degamma the 2.2 in PhotoCD images through a look-
up table, you throw away about two bits when you do it (on 8-bit channels).
The solution would be to have the de-gamma correction done during the YCC to
RGB transform, or ask for the data in YCC form and do it yourself.  The latter
case requires some wasted buffering.

So, the question is, why does Kodak only offer gamma corrected data in RGB
from the toolkit?  All but the most trivial imaging applications would work
with much higher quality if the data were linear.  If quality is the primary
concern with PhotoCD (and Kodak seems to be very strongly defending this point)
then why cripple the advanced imaging application by having them lose two bits
of dynamic range?

Eric.
-- 
------------------------------------------------------
Mundus Mulorem Non Est Regulatum.
			-- Ogden Nash
------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: "martin tai" <martin.tai@canrem.com>
Subject: rollei a26 info  wanted
Reply-To: "martin tai" <martin.tai@canrem.com>
Organization: Canada Remote Systems
Distribution: rec
Date: 10 Nov 92 22:53:58 EST

   I pick up  a Rollei  A26  a week ago,  no  brochure .
The  shutter works.  Then  I read in Shutterbug, some one
is  selling  A26  with  "Strobe and  battery charger ".
Gee  I  must miss something. Mine didn't come with
any  strobe or battery charger.  Does it  use  a rechargeble
battery ?  Does it  need to change battery ?  I cannot find
the  battery  compartment.
   Any one  out their  have experience  with  Rollei A26 ?
Your help  is  appreciated.
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: NE0153@LMSC5.IS.LMSC.LOCKHEED.COM
Subject: Re: Maxxum 7xi and zoom lenses
Organization: Lockheed Missiles & Space Company, Inc.
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 92 15:47:16 GMT

------------------------- Original Article -------------------------