HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: steve@celia.UUCP (Steve Tyree)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [M] Moon light for reef
Date: 16 Nov 92 20:07:37 GMT
Reply-To: celia!steve@usc.edu (Steve Tyree)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Rhythm & Hues, Inc., Hollywood

In article <Bxs2K1.8IA@ra.nrl.navy.mil> tse@ra.nrl.navy.mil (Anthony Tse) writes:
->Hello,
->	I am ready to put a moon in my reef.  How is it done?  Do you
-> change the intensity and leave the moon on all night?  Or do you
-> fix the intensity and change the duration it is on?
->    I am planning on doing the former so I don't have to stick my
-> head in my stand to change the timer peg everyday.  The setup
-> is a OSRAM 9W blue bulb since I have a 9W CF fixture in my junk pile.
-> I'll turn it on in the evening when I do my daily routine  and I'll
-> rubber band a piece of cardboard onto the fixture to reduce the light
-> output according to the phase of the moon.  Any comment?

 My moon setup is stimulating some corals to spawn in artificial lunar
rhythms. The moon illuminance is on for the entire night and the intensity
is varied on a linear scale. The intensity value for each day has been 
calculated previously and the scale is listed below.

.0  .01  .02  .04  .07  .11  .16  .22  .28  .36  .44  .54  .64  .74  .86  1
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
New                                  First                              Full

.86  .74  .64  .54  .44  .36  .28  .22  .16  .11  .07  .04  .02  .01
---------------------------------------------------------------------
                             Last

 You could use the above table as a guide for setting the cardboard shield.
It would be best to create a hinged shield with a normalised scale. If you
are doing this as an experiment to stimulate coral spawning, watch the reef
during night twilight for spawns 4-6 days following the full or new moon.
A Gorgonian sp. coral recently spawned in my reef during the full moon phase
for 2 different months. The time of spawn each day was always the same. 
The eggs were released 1 hour after full daylight was achieved for this coral.
Until we know how every captive coral spawns, we have to always take a good 
look at the reef whenever we walk by. 

 Steve Tyree - Reef Breeder
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: nagel@ucsu.Colorado.EDU (Kurt Nagel)
Subject: Purple Algae Problem
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 19:27:51 GMT


wieser@bissun.kodak.com (Jim Wieser) writes:

>About a month into things, the brown diatoms showed up. They were quickly 
>replaced with mainly purple algae although some bright green algae also 
>showed up. The purple algae hasn't gone away. 
[...]
Garbage about blue light deleted.  A blue light is good for a reef tank,
but it has nothing to do with your problem
[...]
> algae hasn't decreased. I do 20% water changes
>every other week. The tank now has only a coral beauty and a hippo tang. 
>Is the purple algae normal or should it eventually disappear.

I had a similar problem.  In my case, the local experts explained that the
purple stuff is not actually an algae but is much more voracious than green
algae, so it takes over. It is most likely due to metal content in your water.  The solution was as follows:

	1. Remove all carbon/chemical filtration (They will extract the
           medication)
	2. Apply a half dose of maricyn (An antibiotic) on day 1
	3. Apply a half dose of maricyn on day 2
	4. The purple stuff should begin to die back within a few days
	   If not apply another half dose of marycin (NO MORE)
	5. After die back begins, vacuum main body of crud and change
	   about 20% of the water.
	6. After a bout a week (As long as die back is happening) replace
	   filtration.  Use either Polyfilter or Chemi-pure (These will 
	   extract metals where most filter materials will not)
	7. IMPORTANT:  After the red/purple stuff dies, you will have lost
                       most of your biological filter.  Monitor your nitrates
		       religiously and perform frequent water changes until
		       the system stabilizes.
	8. Tests for metal content (other than copper) can be VERY expensive.
	   I was not inclined to pay for a test of my tap water, so I don't
	   know for sure where the metal came from.
           Continue to use Polyfilter or chemi-pure if you suspect metals
	   in your water source.

	My tank was completely cured.  Remember what I said about water
changes and nitrates.  I had to battle a hair algae problem after the 
purple crud because I didn't keep my nitrates down.

Hope this helps......

Kurt
nagel@fido.colorado.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: maxfield@athena.cs.uga.edu (Joan C. Maxfield)
Subject: Re: (F) pine plants
Summary: don't do it!
Organization: University of Georgia, Athens
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1992 21:13:16 GMT

Once upon a time my local fish store carried a cute little plant that
looked just like a little pine tree.  Upon closer inspection I
thought: "Hey, that looks just like Princess Pine!" Princess Pine,
sorry I don't know the latin, is a small, vinelike, TERRESTRIAL plant.
I guess some people don't care about growing plants in their tanks and
just want some green for a little while.  Go back to that store in a
few weeks and take a look at that pine plant, if it's the same plant
that my store tried to sell it will be nasty and brown.  Ugh.  As for
care of it, well, I'd guess some nice acidic, moderatly moist forest
floor would do it just fine!  I say save your money for a REAL aquatic
plant. 

Joan

-- 
J. C. Maxfield				maxfield@athena.cs.uga.edu
DISCLAIMER:  I don't speak for the University, but they often speak for me!
From: pjs@gvgdsd.GVG.TEK.COM (Peter J. Stonard)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Building an Aquarium
Date: 19 Nov 92 03:45:38 GMT
Organization: Grass Valley Group, Grass Valley, CA
NNTP-Posting-Host: gvgdsd.gvg.tek.com

In article <1992Nov17.173921.8785@iscsvax.uni.edu> head5181@iscsvax.uni.edu writes:
>
>I was wondering if anyone out there would happen to have any information, or
>suggestions about building an aquarium. I am thinking about a 50 or 55 gal.
>tank. Or if anyone  is interested in selling one. :) 
>Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Rich,

If your motivation is financial, then forget it! The material 
cost of a tank (at a retail glass store) is more than a new one.

If you want to buy a cheaper-than-new tank then try advertising
locally. The shipping costs will prevent you from getting one
across country.

If you run a simple ad saying you're looking for 'an aquarium'
you may find several to choose from. It has worked for me a couple 
of times. If you're lucky you may find a 'bundle' of stuff from 
someone leaving the hobby.

I offer $1/gallom for used ones. $1.50/gallon if they have a stand
or other 'stuff'.

Good Luck!

++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++
Peter J. Stonard        +                                /^\  /^\
Grass Valley Group      +                       /^\     /   \/
Grass Valley, CA. 95945 +                     /     \ /    /  
pjs@gvgspd.gvg.tek.com  +     Fish keeper in the Sierra Foothills
++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++
If it looks like; sounds like; quacks like; an Opinion. It's mine.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria,sci.aquaria
From: jason@lanai.cs.ucla.edu (Jason Rosenberg)
Subject: mail/phone order places for solution ground
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 92 09:37:54 GMT


Well,

I've gotten several requests for this info, so thought I'd post it here.

Here are some places to order Sandpoint's Solution Ground, listed in ads
in the December issue of FAMA.

$34.95 Shipping included
from Daleco
(219) 747-7376

$29.95 + shipping
from Marine Invertebrates
800-989-9297

In addition, I know there are several other places that carry it, without
explicitly mentioning it in their current ads.  You can try some of the
mail order places listed in the FAQ as well.

Jason

-- 
Jason Rosenberg                           Computer Science Department
jason@cs.ucla.edu                         University of California
{uunet,rutgers,ucbvax}!ucla-cs!jason      Los Angeles, CA  90024
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: snoopy@spacemanspiff.den.mmc.com (Cindy Camp)
Subject: Clown Loaches
Originator: snoopy@spacemanspiff.den.mmc.com
Organization: Denver, Colorado
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 15:51:20 GMT


Well, guess what, you guys are probably all very tired of
hearing about this, but here goes anyway.  All of my
clowns (used to be 8, but now we are down to six) have
developed a severe case of Ick.  I can't figure out
why...I haven't added any new fish (quarantined or
otherwise in over 3 monthes), they were growing and looked
really healthy, the water conditions are good for clowns:


	ammonia ~ 0 ppm
	nitrite ~ 0 ppm
	ph ~ 6.8
	general hardness ~ 240 ppm 
	
Well, anyway, I was going to put them in the hospital
tank when I first saw it, but the conditions the tank indicated
that was not quite finished cycling yet so I left them in
the 50g.  I figured that I might as well treat the whole
tank (neons, bala sharks, angels, and clowns).  I had
coppersafe on hand but was a little leary of using it
after what had been said about the product on the net,
but I decided to try anyway, so I did a 20% water change
and added coppersafe and have been keeping my eye on
the ammonia and nitrates (which are still at the acceptable
levels).  I also slowly have been raising the temp to
speed up the lifespan of that miserable disease.  Well
4 days after using CopperSafe the clowns seemed to have
gotten worse instead of better.  I decided to use a
product called Noxic (or something) but use half of the
recommended dosage to protect the clowns from the bad
stuff that malachite green does them (it said to do this
on the bottle).  Did another 20% water change last night.  
No results.  The malachite green stuff has been in the water 
for about 2 days now.  Shouldn't I be seeing some sort of 
improvement?  How long is the lifecycle of the parasite,
from beginning stage to end?  

Does anyone have any other suggestions???

Thanks.

-- 
 Cindy Camp - Usual disclaimers apply   |
 Martin Marietta  (303)977-9804 	|
 snoopy@spacemanspiff.den.mmc.com  or	|  
 cnewell@azum.den.mmc.com		|
From: pjs@gvgdsd.GVG.TEK.COM (Peter J. Stonard)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: brine shrimp
Date: 21 Nov 92 00:58:16 GMT
Organization: Grass Valley Group, Grass Valley, CA
NNTP-Posting-Host: gvgdsd.gvg.tek.com

In article <1992Nov18.012646.299@Veritas.COM> oleg@veritas.com 
(Oleg Kiselev) writes:
>adwright@iastate.edu () writes:
>>I am interested in growing brine shrimp (Artemia) for fish food. 
[.....]
>Brine shrimp live comfortably in the Great Salt Lake and in the salt 
>evaporation fields of the SF Bay.

Oleg et al,

I read recently that a form of brine shrimp can be found in Mono Lake,
Ca.  (Very near the Nevada State line, east of the Sierra range about 
two hours south of Lake Tahoe). 

The name 'Mono' is a local indian word for the dried shrimp, which was
part of their diet, the lake has been described as 'liquid rock' due to
salt and mineral content.

I plan to go there to take a look next spring, maybe take a net and 
bucket along, too.

Anyone know if the shrimp are suitable for aquarium fish? 
(I plan to ask at the ranger station to see if taking the shrimp is 
allowed).

++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++
Peter J. Stonard        +                                /^\  /^\
Grass Valley Group      +                       /^\     /   \/
Grass Valley, CA. 95945 +                     /     \ /    /  
pjs@gvgspd.gvg.tek.com  +     Fish keeper in the Sierra Foothills
++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++
If it looks like; sounds like; quacks like; an Opinion. It's mine.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: schwarz@esrican.uucp (Brian Schwarz)
Subject: RO Filters (M)(F)
Reply-To: bschwarz@esri.com
Organization: ESRI Canada
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 17:19:59 GMT



I am starting to have a bit of an algae problem in my 72G,
fish/live rock, marine tank.  The glass becomes covered in 
approx 2-3 days.  My lighting consists of 2 Actinic 03 and
3 Vita-Lite's and 1 PowerGlo (all 40W).  

So I bought a Phosphate kit and tested the water from the tank 
and the tap.  The tank was considerably higher (approx +5ppm) 
than the tap (approx 1ppm).  I'm currently using Coral Life's 
Phospate remover to lower the phosphate.  Like most marine 
supplies, this product is not cheap.  

Hence, my question...

I am considering purchasing a RO filter.  I read the FAQ.
It says that the thin film composite membrane types, are better 
than the cellulose tri-acetate (CTA) membrane types for 
aquarium use.

1)  How do you tell the difference?  I've never seen this 
written on the packaging.

I live in a condo which I do not own.  I don't realy want to
buy an "under-the-sink" (UTS) model.  I found an 
"attach-to-the-faucet" (ATTF) model the other day in a 
hardware store.  It retailed for CAN$60.00.  The UTS model has 
two canisters, each holding a different type of filter cartridge.  
One to filter sediment, etc. and the other to filter chlorine, 
bad taste & odour, etc.  I found that very few of them discuss 
the exact elements they remove.  The ATTF model uses the same 
bad taste, etc filter that the UTS model uses.  

2)  Do these bad taste, bad odour removing filters, remove 
phosphates, and hence, partially offset the cost of phosphate
removing agents?

3)  Most models I see in Pet stores run from approx.
CAN$250.00 to CAN$350.00.  Is this $60.00 price an indication of the 
lack of effectiveness for my application?  Or a highly marked-up
product in a specialized retail outlet?

BTW, my nitrates are undetectible.

Thanks in advance,

Brian




-- 
_|_| Environmental Systems Research Institute, CANADA     
_|_|                                
        bschwarz@esri.com
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: dgraf@iastate.edu (David L Graf)
Subject: Coral in Freshwater Aquaria
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames, IA
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 21:12:23 GMT


I have a very large piece of blue coral I would like to use as a centerpiece
in a new 55+ set up.  (I am getting back into the hobby after some 15 years).

My local dealer has told me to seal the coral with epoxy.  But someone else
has told me to use fiberglass resin.  

How can I best seal this piece of coral?
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: jason@lanai.cs.ucla.edu (Jason Rosenberg)
Subject: Re: HELP! Oscar has Hole-in-the-Head
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 92 19:37:44 GMT


Convincing evidence is mounting that hole-in-the-head disease (as well
as lateral-line-erosion) are related to induced voltages present in
home aquariums....

Thus, my best advice is to ground your tank.  There is a commercially
available grounding probe made by Sandpoint called Solution Ground.  You
can find it mail order in most magazine rags for about $30.  

In my marine tank, I had a hole-in-the-head problem with some of my
striped damsels.  They are healing now, thanks to the grounding probe.

Jason

-- 
Jason Rosenberg                           Computer Science Department
jason@cs.ucla.edu                         University of California
{uunet,rutgers,ucbvax}!ucla-cs!jason      Los Angeles, CA  90024
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: tdawson@iphase.com (Tim Dawson)
Subject: Re: Oceanic tanks? ID, please..
Organization: Interphase Corporation, Dallas Texas
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 17:59:54 GMT

01mbmccabe@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu writes:

>> I like the quality of the Oceanic tank and hoods. They seemed like they used
>>better material and workmanship on their tanks and stands.


>Per chance, could you give me an close estimate of how thick the glass is?

>I mean, I don't have a Cheezy Brand tanks to sit next to my tank to compare...:)
>                                      

>				          -Matt

On my 75 Gal drilled reef-ready, about 3/8" on the faces, and 1/2 - 3/4 on 
the bottom.
-- 
================================================================================
The optionions expressed above do not neccesarily represent those of my 
employer - as a matter of fact, sometimes they wish I would shut up!
Tim Dawson (tdawson@iphase.com)     Group Leader, System Administration/Software
From: awhj@vax5.cit.cornell.edu (Tom Fredericks)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Old Aquarium Book
Date: 16 Nov 92 12:30:58 EST
Distribution: rec
Organization: Cornell University

In article <17410@mindlink.bc.ca>,
Tom_Cretain@mindlink.bc.ca (Tom Cretain) writes: 
>  I have been offered an early aquarium book.Does anyone know if
> it would be worth buyiny,and for how much? It is "The Family
> Aquarium",by H.D.Butler,published by Deck & Fitzgerald (1858),
> N.Y. It is said to have many b/w illustrations,and be in "very
> nice" condition,except for some foxing. Any idea of its value?
>  Thanks.
> _

  I'll check Ross Socolof's catalog "Mostly Ichthyology" which has lots of old
aquarium books like the one you describe.

- Tom Fredericks

> 
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: tse@ra.nrl.navy.mil (Anthony Tse)
Subject: Re: Neons and stuff
Organization: Naval Research Lab, Washington, DC
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 17:08:17 GMT

In article <1edna1INNg50@transfer.stratus.com> scol@scottsdale.az.stratus.com (Scott Colbath) writes:
>from people that Neons are tough to keep alive. Maybe I'll wait before adding  
>more Neons and try some small Angels now.

   I heard the same thing too, but I have to disagree.  I tossed 6
cardinals (fancy neons?) in my 10g long time ago and they've been
abused.  Like 2 months without a water change, and when I do do a water
change, I just syphon off a bucket of water without ever vacuuming
the gravel, I have slime algea covered up the entire tank to the point
where you can't even see through it, nitrate so high it's off the scale,
they all survive.  That was when I was experimenting with a maintenace
free tank, now the tank is nice and planted, water change every other
week or so.

-Anthony
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Subject: Re: (F) Whitish growth on bogwood- need advice
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 10:06:19 GMT

In article <92320.112007UPLG6984@RyeVm.Ryerson.Ca> <UPLG6984@RyeVm.Ryerson.Ca> writes:
>as mechanical.  I soaked a piece bogwood in running warm water for 4 days, and

I soak wood for 3-4 months.  Placing the wood in the tank before the
nutrients in it had been sucked out by the fungi&Co.

>1.  Is this fungi?  If so, how did it get into my tank?  (on the moss
>or the bogwood?)

Fungus spores are all around, floating in the air and water.  When the
conditions are right (i.e. lots of nutrients are available), the spores
sprout into fungus.

>2.  Should I remove the moss and sterilize the bogwood?(i.e. re-soak
> it)

Yes.

>       3.  How can I prevent this from happening in the future?  (if it is
>possible :-) )

Soak the wood for a few months, changing the water every 2-3 weeks or when
it gets too stinky to tolerate.  The water in which the wood is soaked 
makes a great mosquito and daphnia culture base.  Scrub off all soft tissues
and bark. 

Boiling the wood or pressure-cooking it will shorten the soaking period,
but since I don't have anything to boil the wood in, I soak it.  So far all
wood I soaked worked great.
-- 
Oleg Kiselev at home			...use the header to find the path
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:8861 alt.aquaria:5790
From: putzolu@toadflax.cs.ucdavis.edu (David Putzolu)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: (M) Killer Anemone :( + Coral Q.
Summary: Anemone eats friend. Also, Coral Questions.
Date: 16 Nov 92 07:55:46 GMT
Followup-To: rec.aquaria
Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of California, Davis

The situation: I was cleaning the tank (had finished siphoning crud,
cleaning front glass) & noticed a snail that had been where he was
for over a day. Decided to move him in case he was stuck. Reached
for snail. All the fish in the tank were unsettled by this huge arm
thing in their tank, fled to their usual spot. Chocolate clown nestled
into his anemone. As I reached the snail, I slightly nudged a piece
of live rock, which slightly nudged the anemone. Suddenly anemone is
1/8 its previous size & clown is gone but for the tip of his tail!!!
To make a sad story short, the anemone ate the clownfish that had 
been its companion for two short weeks. :( :( :(
Now, to compound things, the Royal Gramma has taken it upon itself
to revenge the clown and is nipping at the anemone. :(

The question: Is my anemone a 'rogue' anemone that eats clownfish?
Can anemones develop a taste for clowns? I don't know the species,
but it looks almost exactly like the anemone on the cover of FAMA
Nov 92, except that the lighter stripes extend up the tentacles as
well. The trunk is whitish at the top (near the disc) and darkens
to a orange-red at the base (foot?). Is this just a freak 
occurrence & it is safe to get another anemonefish, or should I
leave this anemone without one?

On a cheerier note, I believe I am ready to add some coral to my
reef system. All the essential readings have reached excellent
levels (Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate zero, calcium 500, SG 1.245, pH 8.2)
and the various stuff on the liverock is all sprouting new shoots,
tentacles, leaves, etc. I would like to know some good coral that
could like in the following light levels:
40G tank, 6-12" between rock & surface.
2 40W 50/50's
1 20W blue moon (similar to actinic blue)
1 20W ultralume
1 20W plant grow light
NO metal halide

Are there corals that would do well with excellent water quality and
the above light levels? Tetra's Marine Invert book isn't very clear
about required light levels, and it is the only resource I currently
have on the matter.

Thanks for the answers!

| David M. A. Putzolu               | putzolu@cs.ucdavis.edu               |
| Senior, CS & Psych, U.C. Davis    | op disclaimer(opinion : ptr mine)    |
| "Put your hand on the TV screen and repeat after me: I do hereby promise |
| only to watch the Ren & Stimpy show,  to make underleg noises during the |
| good scenes,  to wear unwashed lederhosen  every single day  of the rest |
| of my life! That's it! You are in our secret club!"                      |
From: scol@scottsdale.az.stratus.com (Scott Colbath)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Neons may be late night snack !!
Date: 17 Nov 92 17:07:02 GMT
Organization: Stratus Computer Inc, Marlboro MA
NNTP-Posting-Host: scottsdale.az.stratus.com

Well....I picked up a Seabay Mono last Saturday along with  a couple more Neon  
Tetras. I -had- a total of 6 Neons Saturday night. One started looking fairly  
bad after being in the tank for a few hours. I went to bed and it was by  
itself, the other 5 were in a school. When I got up and went to check on the  
fish, it was gone. I pulled all the decorations out of the tank expecting to  
find a dead Neon in there somewhere but found nothing. I attributed this to the  
possibility of other fish in the tank picking at the corpse leaving only a  
barely visible skeleton (which I didn't find either). This morning, the wife  
calls me at work to report another missing Neon. Could the Seabay be munching  
on these Neons? It never seems to bother them at all. I thought the Neons were  
too big for the Seabay to eat. The Seabay also does not look like it has  
ingested anything. I would think I might see a bulge in this normally thin  
fish. In addition, how much can this fish eat??? Two Neons in three days?  
Sounds like a bit much, considering I am feeding all my fish quite well to  
start. Any comments?

BTW: The Seabay has to be one of the coolest fish I have seen in a freshwater  
tank next to Angels and Discus. 

--
**********************************************************
Scott Colbath
Stratus Computer
Phoenix, Az.  (602)852-3106
Internet:scott_colbath@az.stratus.com
**********************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria