HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: harlan@crchh347.bnr.ca (Bruce Harlan)
Subject: Landscape design software query
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Richardson, Tx
Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1992 19:30:56 GMT

Hi.		

My wife is trying to research landscape design software packages for a
horticulture class. The field seems new enough that there just isn't 
a lot of information on the topic, or many packages available. Will
anyone please post a list of known landscape design packages and (if
possible), a list of contacts where she may find out more information
about the packages? 

Thanks in advance	

Bruce K. Harlan	
email harlan@crchh347.bnr.ca
or post to this group.

Standard disclaimers apply. you know the routine.	 
 


Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: fr@compu.com (Fred Rump from home)
Subject: Cannas
Organization: CompuData Inc.
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 22:33:44 GMT
Summary: when to pull

I have these huge cannas and I'm curious if I should pull them out now or wait 
till the first frost comes. If I pull them, do I simply clean the roots and 
cut off the green plant? How or where do I store the roots?

Also, Cannas apparently reproduce from seed because I have them growing in 
places where I did not plant any. I also have a yellow one that I 'know' I did 
not buy or plant. They must blow in from somewhere. I don't see any neighbors 
with them so they must get around pretty far. Maybe birds bring them to me?

Fred
-- 
W. Fred Rump 	office:	   fred@COMPU.COM     'mans feet have grown/so big 
26 Warren St.   home: fred@icdi10.compu.com  that he/forgets his littleness'
Beverly, NJ. 08010                          		Don Marquis 
609-386-6846    bang:uunet!cdin-1!icdi10!fr   
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: sharen@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com (Sharen A. Rund)
Subject: Re: Is coffee good for a compost pile?
Organization: Lockheed Missiles and Space Co.
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 92 18:45:55 GMT

In article <1453300087@igc.apc.org> Ecology Center <ecologycntr@igc.apc.org> writes:
>
>Well, I've put liquid coffee in my compost pile, but I stopped when
>the Raccoons in my yard got cranky and irritable. :)
>
I've put coffee and tea gounds/leaves on my grass and in my vegetable
garden - the grass was originally brownish and had lots of fungus growing -
last time I saw it (it was at my old house) the grass was green and lush -
as for my veggies - they seemed to produce far longer than when I didn't
use the coffee (tea) grounds - in fact, in order to keep the night 
critters away from my garden I used to put the grounds, veggie cuttings,
egg shells, etc in the blender and pour the mixture over the garden area 
(I couldn't keep a composte where I lived)

-- 
________________       __        ________________   "They that can give up
\_________      \     /_ \      /      _________/  essential liberty to 
 \_________      \_____/  \____/      _________/  obtain temporary safety
  \___________________      __________________/  deserve neither liberty 
                     /______\                   nor safety."  
ALL disclaimers apply ....                           --Benjamin Franklin
From: karenp@sybase.com (Karen Paulsell)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Tipuana tipu
Date: 25 Sep 92 02:42:01 GMT
Organization: Sybase, Inc.

In article <fSWGXQ9@quack.sac.ca.us> pharvey@quack.sac.ca.us (Paul Harvey) writes:
>Does anyone know anything about this legume tree? I would think it would
>make a nice potted plant with pruning or even a bonsai, or a great
>outdoor tree in a suitable climate. Legume trees are great, they fix
>their own nitrogen so they can grow in poor soils and grow fast and
>usually have a spectacular flowering period. They are also usually
>drought tolerant.

I've often thought that it would be interesting to do bonsia at
the large end of the scale: instead of the tiny dwarfs in miniature
pots, to use, say 5-10 gallon sizes.  If I recall correctly from
my days of bonsai-curiousity, this is still within the scope of
traditional bonsia, though most are the much smaller varieties.

These techniques could yeild marvellously varied potted patio-
specimens. The traditional bonsai techniques, applied to a 
dwarf citrus, for example, might yeild a beuutiful tree that
would produce a usable one-household amount of fruit. 

Or, with a tipu tree that would quickly grow to 25', with a shape
that sounds quite elegant, a specimen in a large and gorgeous
ceramic pot could be stunning.

Interesting, that the Sunset zones skip, 12-16, 18-24.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: brianb@sprintcom (Brian Bailey)
Subject: Re: West Coast Questions
Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1992 18:27:06 GMT
Organization: mentor
Keywords: 
Followup-To: 

I think its fair to answer for almost all Western Gardeners that the Sunset
Western Garden Book is the bible for the West coast. It gives a lot more detailed
climatic conditions than the USDA figures, local pests and a breakdown of plants
that do well in each of the regions.

-- 
Brian Bailey

================================================================================
My thoughts are sometimes my own. Other times someone says they own them,
			    and I have no rights.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: brucej@mentorg.com
Subject: Cover crop merits?
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 16:28:45 GMT
Organization: mentor
Keywords: 
Followup-To: 

With all this talk of winter rye could someone explain the benefits of
planting a cover crop like winter rye.  I assume you get the nice 
organic material when you till it in the spring?  Is the fundamental
idea to stop erosion though?  When does winter rye go to seed?  You'd
want to till it before that wouldn't you?

Thanks,

Bruce
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: richter@gpu.utcs.utoronto.ca (C. Richter)
Subject: Re: DRYING PARSLY
Organization: UTCS Public Access
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 13:46:38 GMT

In article <BvFK4w.M0J@watserv1.uwaterloo.ca> khare@watserv1.uwaterloo.ca (Kathy Hare - DCS) writes:
>Could anyone tell me the proper way to dry parsley? I have a big bunch 
>of it I want to dry for use over the winter. 

It is better to freeze parsley in small bunches -- sized with as much as 
you would use at any one time.  If you prefer to dry, you must dry in
a well-ventilated location out of the sun with *slight* heat (no more than
30 C).  It is good to remove stems first and to chop the leaves *carefully*
(with a minimum of bruising) into smaller pieces, about 5 mm across, using 
a super sharp knife.  When crisp, finish off in the oven with door ajar 
and temp set at lowest setting, for no more than 10 minutes to remove 
lingering traces of moisture which could cause mould.  Store in airtight, 
opaque containers kept in a cool location.  Don't keep beyond a year. 

Dried product should be green, not yellow or brown, if you have done it 
right. 

Good luck, and enjoy.



-- 
Conrad Richter                     richter@gpu.utcs.utoronto.ca
Richters Herbs                     71550.3411@compuserve.com
Goodwood, ON L0C 1AO Canada        Tel 416-640-6677 / Fax 416-640-6641
Newsgroups: rec.gardens,triangle.gardens,alt.co-evolution
From: snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu (John Snyder)
Subject: Re: Compost question
Organization: Physics Department, Carnegie Mellon University
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 05:28:26 GMT

In article <1992Sep29.132226.27157@samba.oit.unc.edu> frosty@med.unc.edu (Steve Loechel) writes:
>In article <1992Sep24.224512.810@calmasd.prime.com> jhb@calmasd.prime.com (Jim Bishop) writes:
>>And a compost question of mine: does anyone else have the huge grubs
>>that are the size of your thumb in the compost pile?  (Maybe these are
>>what you are talking about above.)  I think they come from the one
>>inch square green metalic looking beetles we get in the late summer. 
>>The beetles don't seem to harm much of anything, but they are somewhat
>>annoying since they don't care where they are going and will fly right
>>into you at full speed.  I don't think I've ever seen them anywhere
>>but Southern California.  
>>I've tried covering my compost pile with plastic to keep them out, but
>>they always get in somehow.  I used to throw the beetles on the
>>sidewalk and the cat would play with them for awhile.  They must not
>>taste very good, because the cat doesn't have much interest in them
>>anymore.  Now, I just chop them in half or ignore them when I find
>>them.  However, it doesn't seem right to be digging them into a flower
>>bed when I'm adding compost.
>
>These beetles sound like they are closely related to the Green june
>beetles that are found in the eastern US. They are in the scarab beetle
>family along with june bugs and Japanese beetles, and like their
>relatives, the grubs damage plants by eating their roots. The adult Green
>june beetles don't do any damage to plants, but you're right about it
>hurting when they fly into you full speed. I have to avoid the area around
>my compost heap during the week or two of their peak activity. These
>beetles must have either very poor eyesight or no brain to speak of,
>because they just blunder about in the air until they go clunk! against a
>tree or a gardener or a wall. Come to think of it, all those head-on
>collisions probably don't do much for their brainpower either. It's a
>wonder they manage to breed, but breed they certainly do. Too bad there's
>not a market for fat white thumb-size grubs, because I get bumper crops.
>One thing you can do with them is to set up a feeding station for birds.


I'll bet that they also make good bait for fishing.  I have used Japanese
beetle grubs for fishing, and caught a lot of large bluegills (you might
call them bream).  They are better than garden worms, and since they
have a tougher skin, they stay on the hook better and longer.


John
snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu
From: greeven@clipper.ingr.com (John Greeven)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Mushroom growing kits/spawn sources
Date: 6 Oct 92 23:44:51 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Intergraph Advanced Processor Division - Palo Alto, CA

In article <1992Oct1.191836.12193@stsci.edu>, yen@stsci.edu (Felix Yen) writes:
> 
> In the better-late-than-never department:
> 
> I copied this information from a newspaper about six months ago, partly
> because Mason is the county seat of Ingham county and as a teen I used
> to kill time by riding from my house in East Lansing to Mason and back.
> Anyway, these people are/were selling morel spawn (I think).
> 
> 	Morel Mountain
> 	Mason, MI
> 	(517) 676 6373

I thought it was either difficult of impossible to grow Morels?  All
the ones I've ever purchased were wild.  What gives?

greeven@clipper.ingr.com
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Fruitflies
Date: 29 Sep 92 21:05:51 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

fh11@sol.acs.unt.edu (Brozovic Douglas) writes:
> We have tried this as well, but they seem to be undaunted...Any ideas...my
> wife is so mad that she is ready to toss our plants out the window...     
> 
>>Then again maybe it really is fruit flys -- prehaps a banana has fallen
>>behind the fridge?
> Surely there are some veterans who have waged successful wars against these
> little trouble makers?  :-)

At this point, it might make sense to capture a few of the critters,
and send them off to your state extension entomologist for ID.  Fruit
flies eat yeast (which often occurs on overripe fruits) -- I have seen
fruitflies breeding successfully in sink traps and drip pans under the
refrigerator (excuse the sexism, but this was *really* a classic
bachelor establishment).  You may have a hidden reservoir of yeast
someplace too.  Or, since the problem is so much more persistant, maybe
you aren't dealing with fruitflies at all!!!

Kay Klier  Biology Dept  UNI
From: charlesv@cs.athabascau.ca (Charles Van Duren)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Northern gardening resources
Date: 29 Sep 92 16:06:05 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: Athabasca University

For the person who asked for sources of information on northern
gardening (and others similarly climatically challenged):

Canadian Gardening
130 Spy Court,
Markham, ON
L3R 5H6
(416)475-8440

Published six times a year.
CAN$19.95 one year (6 issues). CAN$33.95 two years (12 issues)
Outside Canada add $5.00 per year.

Northern Gardens
Brian Andrews
Lone Pine Publishing, 
414, 10357 - 109 St.
Edmonton, AB
T5J 1N3
ISBN 0-919433-35-9

"...its contents will be generally applicable to Alberta, Esat of the Rockies,
Saskatchewan, Manitoba, northern areas of Eastern Canada, and in the north
central United States to Montana, Wyoming, North Dakota, South Dakota, and
Minnesota. The general principles and practices are universal and will apply
to all cool and temperate regions of Canada and the northern United States."

Gardening on the Prairies
Roger Vick
Western Producer Prairie Books
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
ISBN 0-88833-119-3

Aimed mostly at the Prairies.

The Harrowsmith Northern Gardener
Camden House Publishing Ltd.
Queen Victoria Road
Camden East, ON
KOK 1J0
ISBN 0-920656-22-6

Vegetable and organic gardening information for Canada, the Northeastern states,
and Northwestern states.

___________________________

Our area is zone 1b on the climatic and growing season charts. We gamble on
plants meant for zones 2 and 3. Brian Andrews knows our area very well, so
we tend to trust his judgment.

The first two books acknowledge the Devonian Gardens as a source. It is the
major botanical garden (run by the University of Alberta) at this latitude,
and it's a treasure.

Hope this of benefit.

CvD
*----------------------------------------------------------------------------*
| Charles van Duren - Senior Systems Analyst - Center for Distance Education |  
|      Athabasca University, Athabasca, Alberta, Canada T0G 0B0              |
*-------------------------------------\/-------------------------------------*
|      Now Tom he claims, that a man's true joy,                             |
|      Is in the work he likes to do,                                        |
|      And if I understand, Tom's a right joyous man,                        |
|      And Tom, he's looking at you ...       Tom Blasingame (Ian Tyson)     |
*-------------------------------------/\-------------------------------------*
From: kimf@amaryllis.EBay.Sun.COM (Kim Foster)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: R & D Lilies Company
Date: 6 Oct 92 20:30:31 GMT
Distribution: ne
Organization: Sun Microsystems Federal, Milpitas, CA.
NNTP-Posting-Host: amaryllis.ebay.sun.com

I'm going to get a catalog from R & D Lilies.  Before I start
to place an order, I would like to know if anyone on the net ever
order any lilies from them.  Particularly, I would like to know
about their prices and quality of their lily bulbs.

Thanks for the input,
Kim
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: andy@cmptrc.lonestar.org (Andy Hart)
Subject: Re: Tipuana tipu
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 23:10:12 GMT
Organization: CompuTrac Inc., Richardson TX

In article <23839@sybase.sybase.com> karenp@sybase.com (Karen Paulsell) writes:
>
>I've often thought that it would be interesting to do bonsia at
>the large end of the scale: instead of the tiny dwarfs in miniature
>pots, to use, say 5-10 gallon sizes.  If I recall correctly from
>my days of bonsai-curiousity, this is still within the scope of
>traditional bonsia, though most are the much smaller varieties.
>

  There are no hard and fast rules for how big bonsai can be.  The little
  tiny ones that most people associate with bonsai are "mame" bonsai.
  There are different japanese names for varying size classifications.

  The word bonsai literally means "potted tree".  So, if it's a tree and it's
  in a pot, I guess you could call it a bonsai.

  By the way, there is an "alt.bonsai" newsgroup.  Please feel free to drop
  in.

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: sjane@bmers248.bnr.ca (sjs)
Subject: Re: Bulb suggestions
Organization: Irrelevant, Ottawa, Canada
Date: Thu, 01 Oct 92 12:00:34 GMT

In article <27705@nntp_server.ems.cdc.com> joannek@ems.cdc.com writes:
>In article <1992Sep28.122221.7135@iscsvax.uni.edu>, klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes:
>|> chrisda@atlantis.CS.ORST.EDU (David Christensen) writes:
>|> > I'm looking for suggestions for bulbs to plant this fall.  I live in mild
>|> 
>|> I'm also inordinately fond of the "minor bulbs" -- squills, snowdrops, 
>|> crocus, fritillaria, etc.  A blue and white carpet of squills and 
>|> snowdrops under a blooming Hamamelis vernalis is my idea of "oh, wow!!!".
>|> 
>I'm glad someone else really likes the minor bulbs.  IMHO they are the most 
>beautiful little flowers around.  Maybe its because they are usually the first
>flowers of spring (after a long, long winter) or maybe its because they seem 
>to grow no matter what.  Snowdrops,squills and glory of the snow are some of
>my favorites.  Another that my mother used to have, but I have only seen in 
>one catalog (Mich. bulb) is Star of Bethlehem.  Its a lovely white flower on 
>a multibranched 9" stem.  (I grew up in Michigan so maybe thats why only Mich
>bulb carries them.)  I ordered some from Mich bulb (I know, silly me )
>and one grew, so at least I have a start on them.
>
You don't have to order them from Mich bulb, try:

Cruikshanks
1015 Mount Pleasand Rd,
Toronto, Ont.,
M4P 2M1
Canada

(1-416-488-8292)

I have been *very* pleased with the results I got from their bulbs & dealing
with them is easy.  They are more expensive than our local garden centre, but
with the Canadian dollar falling, that should be no problem for Americans!
And if you want a catalog to make you drool...

Cruikshank's Star of Bethlehem has the latin name Ornithogalum umbellatum &
you can get 100 for $32.00 Canadian.  Call them up & ask for catalog number
375-022 (p.53 of the Catalog if you want 'em to check that I haven't made
a typo.)

-sjs
--
It's not irrelevant; it's a hippopotamus.   sjane@BNR.CA
From: ceb@dbrus.Unify.Com (Caroline E. Bryan)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Source for Push Lawnmowers
Date: 1 Oct 92 18:06:06 GMT
Organization: /usr/lib/news/organization

In article <13358@texsun.Central.Sun.COM> dbernard@thewho.Central.Sun.COM writes:
>You know, the manual, human-powered reel variety.
>Who sells them mail-order?  How much do they sell for?
>I've heard of a company called "Great Lakes" Mower, or
>something like that... my local hardware store says they
>sell for about $75, but are out of them until spring.  

Smith & Hawken sells one or two.  You can reach them by way of the 800
operator:  dial 1-800-555-1212 and ask for their phone number.  S & H is a
tad pricey but their quality is excellent.


Carrie		ceb@rechenau.unify.com	x6244	     ---------------------+
| "Creativity in programming is to find deep simplicities in a complex	  |
| process."					- Harlan Mills 		  |
+-------------------------------------------------------------------------+
From: achan@nata.EBay.Sun.COM (Annie Chan)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: How to get rid of mint plant
Date: 28 Sep 1992 22:50:57 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems Federal, Milpitas, CA.
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: nata.ebay.sun.com

Can anyone give me some recommendations on how to get rid of mint plants?
The previous owner of my house planted some mint plants in between all the
rose brushes in my backyard, like weed - the mint plants have been growing 
so wildly that I can't smell my roses anymore because the mint plants have
the strong mint fragrance.


I appreciate any suggestion.  Thank you in advance.


Annie Chan 



Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: pharvey@quack.sac.ca.us (Paul Harvey)
Subject: Re: Tipuana tipu
Organization: The Duck Pond public unix: +1 408 249 9630, log in as 'guest'.
Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1992 21:46:07 GMT

In article <1992Sep24.222559.809@calmasd.prime.com> 
jhb@calmasd.prime.com (Jim Bishop) writes:
>This may be one of the trees used on I-5 near downtown San Diego. 
>They are a deep green and currently have apricot blooms.  Of course,
>it's a little difficult to be sure when trying to look at the tree at
>70 mph, uh, I mean 55 mph.

I'll look for it next time I'm down SoCal way.

>They seem to be quite large with a dense canopy.  I think they would
>be difficult to contain in a pot for long.  

Actually, almost anything can be grown in a container. The secret is to
prune the root mass and the plant top and remove circling and dead and
deseased roots. For example, say you have a container plant that has
outgrown it's current container, what do you do? Two options: 1)
transplant it to the next larger container. 2) Remove it and prune the
root mass to about half the volume and remove circling and dead and
deseased roots and prune the top by about half also and repot in the
same pot with fresh soil. Many plants will react to this type of
environment which simulates harsh winters or extended droughts by
slowing down the growth, as long as they get sufficient light and
nutrients. Take this process to a small enough container and you get the
Chinese art of bonsai.

>I wish I had one of these instead of the coral tree I have in my
>backyard.  I planted the coral tree for its dense deep green tropical
>looking canopy.  Last weekend the tree broke (more like exploded)
>under its own weight plus the mosture from a heavy fog.  Since this
>was 30 foot tall tree with a 40 foot spread, it will take several
>weeks to clean up the mess and several years for it to grow back.

Must have been something in bloom. You can prune to develop stronger structure.
I would think the ideal time would be after a bloom cycle. Think of it
like a peach tree. In a mild climate free of ice and snow load, a peach
grows too much and carries peaches out at the very ends of weak young
branches and as a result, eventually kills itself.

>I ran as much of the tree through the shreader as I could. (It took 5
>hours of non-stop shreading!)  Now the odor coming from the compost
>pile is starting to get to me, but it (the compost pile) is very hot
>and I should have some great compost for fall planting.

Should be good stuff, high nitrogen. If the pile gets too hot, that
means there is too much nitrogen and you are losing a lot of it to
nitrification, so you get better compost by adding high-carbon material.
This is the secret to top quality compost, maintaining the correct C/N
ratio, don't ask me, I'm not a compost guru, maybe someone else would
care to volunteer their secrets of top quality composting.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: sundare@watson.ibm.com (C. Sundaresan)
Subject: Cosmos Sensation reached 9 feet!
Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1992 13:03:56 GMT
Distribution: usa
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center

I do love the flowers but the height is a little daunting.  Has anyone
tried cutting them back at some stage in their growth (like mums)?
How about the shorter varieties? Are the flowers as nice?
I've saved seeds, with thoughts of starting some more next spring
(I figure the winter freeze will kill the seeds but does anybody
out there know for sure?)
I have to grow *some* of these tall cosmos again, so I can continue
to meet my neighbors as they walk past and ask me what these huge
ferns with the flowers are....

Chris Sundaresan
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: does pine-bark kill azaleas ??
From: A.S.Chamove@massey.ac.nz (A.S. Chamove)
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 92 10:34:11 GMT
Organization: Massey University, Palmerston North, New Zealand
X-Reader: NETNEWS/PC Version 2c

People here seem to mulch everything with Pine bark and it seems to
kill nothing.  My azalias are covered with pine bark and have been Ok
for 4 years.

-- 
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Arnold Chamove
Massey University Psychology
Palmerston North, New Zealand