HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: bohdan@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (bohdan.l.bodnar)
Subject: Re: Repeat: Jeep Idle Problem & Lift Questions
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 14:42:10 GMT

In article <1992Nov14.051021.17055@ra.oc.com> rodder@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Jon D. Rodder) writes:
>In article <1dttbkINNnl4@rave.larc.nasa.gov> DEVILBISS@OCTAVE.LARC.NASA.GOV (Spooner) writes:
>> HereUs the problem . . . 
>>
>>1988 JEEP Wrangler, 258 I6 Engine, Carburetor
>>
>>The engine is having trouble idling without stalling.  When at idle, 
>>the engine tends to surge, i.e..  runs smooth for a second, then 
>>starts to die for a second, then repeats.  High speed engine 
>>performance is fine.  IUve pulled the spark plugs & cleaned and 
>>re-gapped them.  IUve done a visual inspection of the PCV system.  
>>I may have a problem here, there is a solenoid in the PCV line 
>>between the valve cover and the carburetor.  Every time the engine 
>>starts to die, the solenoid clicks, either opening or closing the line.  
>
>First, it sounds like a vacuum leak.  If you haven't already replaced
>all of the hose between the PCV valve and intake, you probably need to.
>The hose between the solenoid and the PCV bruned thru on mine at about
>5000 miles.  The other side rotted out at about 55,000 miles.  My PCV
>solenoid also clicks when the engine is dying due to a vacuum leak.
>There is something else though causing the engine to rev up and down,
>but I'm not sure what it is.  If I was planning to keep my Wrangler,

I had a problem with similar symptoms in a 1986 Mustang (2.3 liters, carbureted
engine).  The bug was traced to a malfunctioning A/F mixture solenoid -- it
would stick "lean", loosen, stick "rich", loosen, etc.  Here's the testing
procedure I used;  perhaps, you can try something like this on your car:

The EEC-IV computer system adjusts the air/fuel mixture 10x per second.  Hence,
monitoring the oxygen sensor's output with an analog high impedance voltmeter
will result in an integrated reading (i.e., no jumping around).  At idle (rough
idle with RPMs bouncing around) I read 100 mv (very lean).  The interesting
thing occurred around 2000 RPM:  the sensor's output would go to roughly 800 mv,
stay there for a while, drop to 400 mv, stay there for a while, go back to 800,
etc.  With a fixed RPM, I'd expect its average value to stay constant.  The
diagnosis of a malfunctioning solenoid was confirmed when this one was
replaced.  Idle sensor voltage went to about 150 mv, the idle smoothed out,
high RPM voltage reading became constant, and intake manifold vacuum went up.

The Ford shop manual suggests the following test for a malfunctioning solenoid
(if vacuum leaks cannot be found):  at idle (rough idle), disconnect the
connector to it.  If there's an appreciable improvement in the idle quality,
the solenoid is bad.  Incidently, the old solenoid was very gummed up.

Hope this helps you.

Bohdan Bodnar

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: adamstr@cc.uvcc.edu
Subject: Re: Sema Show (some comments)
Organization: Utah Valley Community College
Date: 23 Nov 92 13:49:26 -0700


In article <1992Nov19.224518.18895@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com> sharen@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com (Sharen A. Rund) writes:
>>I was at the SEMA Show last week (there was about 19 miles of exhibitors
>>and displays) - here's a few notes:
>>
>>- Chevy also had an XJ220 (219mph, 750K) - beautiful car
>>

>	Funny, Chevy showing off what amounts to a Ford.  New corporate
>alliances here?

Hmmm..  The XJ220 sounds like a car I saw on the front cover of Sept. 1992
issue of Road & Track - (it was a Jaguar!)  just my $0.02 :)

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jh6u@faraday.clas.Virginia.EDU (Jay  Hirsh)
Subject: Re: Saab 900S oil->mayonnaise
Organization: University of Virginia
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 01:44:14 GMT



Oops- the beginning lines got deleted from the msg I just posted. 
 Here's another try at it:


I have an odd problem with my 1987 Saab 900S.  About nine months ago I 
noticed a sudden onset of emulsified water, the consistency of brown
mayonnaise, in my oil.  Not a lot, just a bit on the dipstick.  I had 
my mechanic check the head gasket out for leaks, and all seemed OK. 
Antifreeze level wasn't dropping, so apparently not a leak from there.

Draining showed only a few ml's of emulsion, and changing the oil got 
rid of it.  In the end, I only correlate the problem with having taken 
the car through a power car wash, something I rarely do.  The only 
place I could figure water might enter is through the air intake, 
which points upward in this engine.

So, all was well until several days ago when I noticed the same 
symptoms.  About a week ago we drove in some very heavy rain, so there 
is a pattern here.  Has anyone ever heard of such??  If this is a 
generic Saab problem, I can't imagine that it hasn't been seen before.  
Or am I missing something?  

The only test I can think of is to go through the car wash again while 
my oil is contaminated, and see if the problem gets worse, checking 
for a wet spot in the engine compartment that would give a clue as to 
the entry point.


jay hirsh
university of virginia
From: sheriffp@Software.Mitel.COM (Peter Sheriff)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: front brake job, need tip
Date: 23 Nov 92 18:55:21 GMT
Organization: Mitel. Kanata (Ontario). Canada.


    The plastic pistons are called `phenolic' in the shop manuals. I am
sure that there are some knowledgeable people out there that know what
kind of plastic this is. I presume that it is a thermosetting plastic.

                               Pete
From: GC.SUL@forsythe.stanford.edu (Sullivan)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Condenser lesson
Date: 23 Nov 1992 14:55:08 -0800
Organization: Stanford University
NNTP-Posting-Host: morrow.stanford.edu

I've had problems with two older cars in the last couple months
that cleared up completely by replacing condenser.

Symptoms:

1.  car starts running badly, missing , losing power, backfires.
2.  eventually won't start.

I go thru bonehead troubleshooting:
1. check distributer, points, etc for wear, gap, etc.
2. check for spark at plug.
3. pour a little fuel in carbuerator to see if it'll at least catch.
   (possible fuel line clog)
No Go.

Replace condenser, starts right up, runs like a charm.

What does the condenser at the distributer do?   Thanks in advance.
Email ok if this is FAQ.

Mike


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dylan@cs.washington.edu (Dylan McNamee)
Subject: Auto computer output -- homebuilt readers?
Summary: can I connect a terminal to my car?
Organization: Computer Science & Engineering, U. of Washington, Seattle
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 92 22:27:22 GMT



My 93 Probe has a jack for connecting a "service computer" to the car for
diagnostic purposes.  Being the curious kind of person that I am, I would
be interested in reading the output from this jack myself.  

First, I guess I would need to figure out what the pinouts from this thing
are, and whether it's constantly dumping data out, or whether there is 
some sort of request-line, which causes data to be emitted.

Second, the data formats would be useful.

I got the shop manual and wiring diagram for the car (thanks net, they're great!)
but other than cryptic names for the signals, there's no information as to what
each line does.  So, is there anyone that has the inside skinny on what goes
on in those service computers?  They can't be that tricky, or can they?

thanks,
dylan
dylan@cs.washington.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: lstarrit@dante.nmsu.edu (Larry Way Starritt)
Subject: JUST SITTING THERE
Organization: New Mexico State University, Las Cruces, NM
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 02:51:14 GMT



I have a Subaru Brat 81 that has been well used.
It runs well except if I let it sit for a few days 
with out starting it, then it won't start unless 
I prime the carburetor with a little gas then I
don't have any trouble with it until I let it 
sit a few more days with out starting it. Anyone
out there have any ideas on what is causing this?

Thanks
Larry
lstarrit@nmsu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: J019800@LMSC5.IS.LMSC.LOCKHEED.COM
Subject: 1985 VOLVO HEATER FAN REPLACEMENT
Organization: Lockheed Missiles & Space Company, Inc.
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 92 23:01:27 GMT

I RECENTLY REPLACED THE HEATER FAN IN MY 1985 VOLVO. MOST MECHANICS WANT
5 TO 6 HUNDRED DOLLARS IF THEY DO IT. MY ADVICE "PAY THE MAN!!!!". I DID
THE JOB MYSELF, HOWEVER IT TOOK ME A LEAST 20 HOURS OF HARD LABOR. THE NEW
MOTOR FOR THE HEATER FAN IS NOT A BOLT IN. YOU NEED TO GRIND DOWN THE MOUNTING
BRACKETS SO THAT THE REPALCEMENT MOTOR WILL FIT. IF YOU NEED TO TRY THIS JOB
SEND ME A NOTE AND I'LL GIVE WHATEVER HELP I CAN... GOOD LUCK... FROM ONE
WHO HAS BEEN THERE.....

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: quadrun@jhunix.hcf.jhu.edu (Jason G Velasco)
Subject: Duralube, Sakuralube
Organization: HAC - Johns Hopkins University, Baltimore
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1992 00:32:14 GMT


Anyone ever try these?  Duralube is the stuff on TV...  that was 
"demonstrated" to be better than Mobil 1...

Sakuralube is another "engine treatment" that's supposedly used by all
the Japanese manufacturers...  I saw this one in an ad from Group 6 
Performance in Arizona...

Comments?

/ J /
-- 
Jason Velasco                                      quadrun@jhunix.hcf.jhu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: wesf@boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii)
Subject: Re: Help with slipping transmission
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 15:36:36 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

warren wein (wwein@scott.skidmore.edu) wrote:
: 
: 	Saturday morning I took my 1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse gsx out for
: a drive.  I went to pass someone in 4th gear and the engine started
: reving but I wasn't moving any fater.  Then the revs dropped and I
: started accelerating.  I was worried that the clutch might be going
: but clutch take up in all gears was normal.  I tried flooring the car
: in 5th gear and the same reving and then drop in revs , acceleration.
: This did not happen in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd gears.  Last night I took the
: car out again and it was behaving normally. 

Does sound like your clutch is marginally slipping.  Take up, especially
with a hydraulic system can be misleading.  It sounds like you need more
preload on your clutch disc or the clutch disc is worn.

: I am driving to NYC on
: Tuesday.  The trip is about 222 miles.  Is it safe to drive the car?

Depends on if you will be driving hard or not.  If you are gentle on it
and there aren't many long/steep hills, the trip is probably okay.

: If the car isn't behaving abnormally will the dealer be able to find 
: any problems? Does anyone have any clue as to what is going on?

If the dealer is a good one, the mechanics should be able to figure it
out.  On the other hand, there are a lot of bozos out there so be 
prepared for multiple visits...

Wes Fujii

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Wes Fujii               *           JAPANESE BUSINESS MOTTO           *
* Boise, Idaho            *        You can buy anything you want        *
* wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com *             with a lot of money             *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
From: c23st@kocrsv01.delcoelect.com (Spiros Triantafyllopoulos)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Funny sounds from 1985 Civic's front end
Date: 16 Nov 92 15:35:12 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Delco Electronics Corp.

Hi folks,

I have a couple of questions about a couple of sounds coming from my
1985 Honda Civic. It's got 128,000 miles on, and still runs original
suspension components. Tires are cheap firestones. It's a 5 speed,
with clutchwork done at 80,000 miles (brake job also that time).

The first is a wailing sound when I back up the car. Does not make any
difference whether I back up straight, or curve, hot/cold. It stops
after 20-30 feet. It's quite embarassing :-)

The second is a sloght grinding, metal on metal noise coming off the
front end that goes away when I hit the brakes. It is not like I am
grinding stones or anything, it is not loud. It occurs at varying speeds,
usually between 35-60 mph. 

So, am I in for the big one(s)? The tranny shifts OK, no funny vibrations,
etc etc. The CV boots may have been screwed up a bit a while back, I had
them checked maybe a year ago. Are we talking CV joints? Flamethrower?
donate-for-scrap or a cheaper solution? The car is only used in the winter
and is driven minimally the rest of the year. Oil changes every 3K miles.

Any help will be appreciated.

Thanks,

Spiros
-- 
Spiros Triantafyllopoulos                    c23st@kocrsv01.delcoelect.com
Software Technology, Delco Electronics       (317) 451-0815
GM Hughes Electronics, Kokomo, IN 46904      [A Different Kind of Disclaimer]
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: utealt@seanews.akita.com (john tigue)
Subject: Valve work techniques
Organization: SEANEWS - Seattle Public Access News + Mail
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 18:46:05 GMT

After removing the head cylinder, it has been sugested to me, you
can check on the quality of the seal between the valve face and the 
valve seat by pouring gasoline or some such into the intake or exaust 
ports on the head.  If the gasoline leaks its way around the valves 
then some work on the valves is required.  Is this a valid test?
     If it turns out that work does need to be done, how far can
hand lapping the vavles be taken; when is it neccessary to have
a machine shop grind the valves

--
[] SEANEWS [] Seattle Public Access Usenet News + Mail [] +1 206 747 NEWS []
utealt@seanews.akita.com
From: vbreault@rinhp750.gmr.com (Val Breault)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Auto in neutral at light
Date: 17 Nov 92 13:34:25 GMT
	<VBREAULT.92Nov13150939@rinhp750.gmr.com>
	<Holt-161192141334@cheme-kinetics.cheme.washington.edu.>
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Organization: General Motors Research Labs
In-reply-to: Holt@cheme.washington.edu's message of 16 Nov 92 22:19:40 GMT

In article <Holt-161192141334@cheme-kinetics.cheme.washington.edu.> Holt@cheme.washington.edu (Brad Holt) writes:

      Nothing like a wise cracking response.

   In article <VBREAULT.92Nov13150939@rinhp750.gmr.com>,
   vbreault@rinhp750.gmr.com (Val Breault) wrote:
   > 
   > In article <Holt-131192095050@cheme-kinetics.cheme.washington.edu.> Holt@cheme.washington.edu (Brad Holt) writes:
   > 
   >    Ok I just got my first automatic transmission vehicle (for towing).
   >    Question:  Suppose I come to a long stop light. After I have stopped s
   >    hould I just leave it in drive or put it in neutral?
   > 
   > (Sigh) 
   > 1 - Read your owners manual
   > 2 - Do everything your owners manual says
   > 
   > Your automatic transmission (actually the whole car) was ENGINEERED.
   > People that take great pride in their work analyzed the requirements
   > and engineered a solution that meets those requirements.  Some trade-

     Engineered - like the GM diesels or the Cadillac 4-6-8 V8 I take it?

   > offs may have been made, but requiring the operator to change gears 
   > at stop lights is beyond reasonable; approaching absurd.
   > 
   >    Brad
   > -val-
   > 
   > --
   > 
   > Val Breault - GM Research - vbreault@gmr.com - N8OEF
   > Instrumentation dept., 30500 Mound Rd., Warren, MI 48090-9055
   > The opinions expressed by the author do not necessarily reflect 
   > those of GMR or those of the General Motors Corporation.
   >  

      I will try again.  I was curious if there was more wear and tear
   in shifting into and out of drive then just leaving it in.

     (I apologize to GMR - I had good experiences when I worked there - I
   just did not appreciate the tone of the response.)

I had that coming and I deserved it.  I apologize to you Brad, and
to the rest of the net.  Please forgive me.

You must have tuned in late.  There was a recent flurry of posts that
said it was a bad thing to shift an automatic transmission into and
out of gear at every stop light.  The posters agreed that the bulk
of the wear in an automatic transmission occurred during the transient
phases.  Static phases were generally regarded as low wear.
--
-val-

Val Breault - GM Research - vbreault@gmr.com - N8OEF            \      /|
Instrumentation dept., 30500 Mound Rd., Warren, MI 48090-9055    \    / |
The opinions expressed by the author do not necessarily reflect   \  /__|
those of GMR or those of the General Motors Corporation.           \/   |___
 

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: danielle@sco.COM (THE RED NINJA)
Subject: Help... Tinted Windows
Organization: The Santa Cruz Operation, Inc.
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 01:18:31 GMT


Hello all, is there anyone on the net that can
give me some advice about tinted windows?

Here's the situation, I had the windows in my 
Integra tinted about 4 months ago.  I had the 
rear window tinted at 20% and the rear side quarter
windows and doors tinted at 35%.  According to
the installer, it is legal to have the doors tinted
up to a certain level (35%).  I thought it was fine
until a couple of days ago.  I got pulled over by the
CHP after work at about 12:30am (working really late).
I was going about 30mph in a 35 zone down a three lane
street.  The street has a bunch of trees along it that
kinda covers the street lamps a bit.  The CHP noticed me
as I was the only one going down the street and he was
the only one coming from the other direction (also three
lanes).  I had just entered a dark shadow from the trees
when we passed each other and he glanced over at me.  I 
guess he couldn't see me in the dark so he made a U-turn
and pulled me over.  He gave me a ticket and said it was
a traffic violation not a fix it ticket.  He said that
I violated section 26708A of the Vehicle Code and that I 
must remove the tint from both of my doors as I cannot have
ANY kind of tint on the doors.
I've just received my courtesy notice from the court and
it shows an $82 bail for the ticket and from what I hear
it is also a point on my insurance.

My question is, what can I do about this problem?  I've
thought that the tint is legal and now I'm told it's not.
I've also talked with the city police and they've told me
that it is legal to have tint on the window (up to a certain
limit).  So who's correct the CHP or the city police?  If anyone
can give me some advice on how to approach this or where I
can find some "laws" regarding tinted windows, I would
greatly appreciate it.

Sorry for the long, dragged out details.

Thanks,

d.
From: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Help on NO START!!!
Date: 20 Nov 92 23:29:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Ye Olde Bailey BBS - Houston, TX - 713-520-1569
Reply-To: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 


KT!@#Supposely, the first switch of key (before igniting the engine) should
  !@#lighten all the signs, such as check engine, battery, door, fasten
  !@#seatbelt, etc.  If the 'check engine' is not lit, I know I won't be able
  !@#to start the car.  This is the only symptom that I found.

KT!@#The way I dealt with it is to open the hood and close it heavily (trying
  !@#to shake the car body).  The 'check engine' sign normally came back
  !@#after a few try, and I can run the car again.  I have been using this
  !@#low-tech method to deal with my car in the past few months.

 A loss of power to the car computer....such as bad connector at the
 computer OR a bad connector near the battery..and just to be sure...the
 car hasn't gotten wet on the inside has it? If yes then good possibilty
 of computer actually being bad....they are usually under front seat or
 front carpet passenger side...             ^^^^^^^

                                                   Don


 * SLMR 2.1a * I'm too poor to have a TAG!
 
----
Ye Olde Bailey BBS
Houston,Texas
Node 1: 1 713 520 1569
yob.sccsi.com
From: jskean@unlinfo.unl.edu (jonathan skean)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: putting a 5spd in a '61 chevy apache 10
Date: 17 Nov 1992 22:26:54 GMT
Organization: University of Nebraska--Lincoln	
Distribution: all
NNTP-Posting-Host: unlinfo.unl.edu

>> I am interested in putting a 5spd manual transmission in a `61
>> Chevy Truck.  I currently have a 3spd manual which causes the 
>> truck to run at high RPM's during highway driving.  

>Another thing you could do is replace the rear axle with one which has
>a lower gear ratio. 

These things were built to haul loads, not run empty on the freeway, which
is why they are geared that way.  Change the rear axle only if you don't
intend to haul any serious weight in the future.  Also, compute your
potential fuel savings against the cost of conversion carefully unless
money is no object to you.  I think overdrive was avilable in '61 for the
3-speed, but finding one today might be tough.  O.D. would lower the
cruising rpm without losing the pulling ability the engineers intended for
this truck.  I put many miles on a 292 cu in long stroke six with a three
speed at 55-60 (mostly hauling one-ton loads of feed) and I agree that the
engine sounded strained above 45, but it was reliable at higher speeds
anyway!
--
Jonathan Skean                     usenet: JSKEAN@UNL.EDU
502 Hamilton Hall                  bitnet: JSKEAN%UNL.EDU@UNLVAX1
University of Nebraska              voice: (402)472-2684
Lincoln, NE 68588-0304   USA          fax: (402)472-9402
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: eric@eeco.cba.ufl.edu (Eric E.C. Olson)
Subject: Q:  what's the EASIEST car to work on?  (novice mechanic wannabe)
Organization: College of Business, University of Florida
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1992 00:00:51 GMT


I need to get another car, strictly for in-town commuting.  I'd like to get 
something that's EASY & Cheap to work on myself.  I have a decent amount of 
knowledge about "how" various systems work, and am basically familiar with 
the various parts, but haven't done a lot of actual working myself.  I want 
this to change!

Could the net gods offer their wisdom on this matter?

I was thinking something simple... like probably no fuel injection, older 
with minimal pollution control eqpt, something straightforward to work on.
Maybe VW Bug?  American honest-to-gosh V-8 vehicle (which one, though)?

Thanks in advance for any help!

Eric Olson
Univ. of Florida
From: markr@eye.com (Mark Reichert)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Cleaning up ball joints
Summary: grunge removal?
Date: 13 Nov 92 18:49:35 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: 3D/EYE, Inc.  Ithaca, NY


What is the collected wisdom on cleaning ball joints?

I've just pulled mine out, and they're quite grungy.

Is there any way to open them up for cleaning?
Or, should I just soak them in solvent for a while?
Or, none of the above?

Thanks.

Mark Reichert
markr@eye.com

ps. if it matters, they're from a lotus europa.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: vaheg@woods.ulowell.edu
Subject: Thanks for help with buick pinging prob
Organization: University of Lowell
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 03:22:58 GMT

I really appreciate all the help I got from you guys.
You all pointed me tords carbon build up--That is in fact what it was.
A lot of you suggested stuff you put in your fuel system.  I'm sure
that works.  But while searching for this "stuff" that you suggested, one
person at bedford auto parts made a suggestion.  he told me to trust him on
this one.  He said to rev up the engine to 3000 and pour water into the carb.
I didnt like the idea at first but then I thought a little bit.  I gave it
a shot.  Near the end of my exaust pipe was totally black--It worked perfect!
-thanks again!!
-gerry vahe

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech