HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: dahls@fhydra.dnet.unit.no (Joern Yngve Dahl-Stamnes)
Subject: Re: sensor for computer
Reply-To: dahls@fhydra.dnet.unit.no (Joern Yngve Dahl-Stamnes)
Organization: University of Trondheim, NORWAY
Distribution: rec
Date: Fri, 09 Oct 92 10:07:42 EDT

Thus spoke the keyboard of "richard underwood" <richard.underwood@canrem.com>:
>To: 2641nabedian@vms.csd.mu.edu
>
>2N>    Subject: Sensor for Computer
>
>2N>I am an electrical engineering student at Marquette University.  As a
>2N>project for one of my classes, I have chosen to build a bicycle computer.
>
>Mount a magnet on the spokes, (steal one from a real cycle computer).  
>Mount a pick up coil on the forks, (steal that from the same source).
>Use shielded cable.
>
>Now feed the resulting signal into a 74HC or similar schmidt trigger
>through a high (100K) resistor.  (You may need to amplify the
>signal with an op amp if the coil and/or magnet are not big enough.)
>
>Next choose another processor - I like the 68HC11D3 or similar for
>this kind of thing.  Everything you need in one chip.  You might
>even be able to feed the signal directly into the input capture pin
>without the 74HC buffer.

Why not use a good reed relay. It is better since it will detect very low
speed, and you don't need to amplify it. The problem with reed relay
giving false signal due to vibration may occure on low-quality reed
relays, but I thing a good high-quality reed-relay won't give you any
false signal. Beside, some good-written software may detect false signals.

>The rest is software and display.

... and some buttons.

>I doubt that an optical system would work well unless the you only
>ride the bike at night, then you would need backlighting for the 
>display.  What about doppler microwave radar?

Don't your TV remote controll work in daylight? My does, and it use IR
light to transmit data to the TV. The problem with using an optical sensor
is that dirt will disturb the sensor. Doppler microwave radar? It may
work, but you shure need a shitload of batteries. Why not use GPS ;-)

>2N> Any help will be greatly appreciated.
>
>No problem, its easy to give advice - it's the implementation
>that's difficult.

+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+--+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+
* I went back to my mother,           * Joern Yngve Dahl-Stamnes             *
* I said, "I'm crazy ma, help me!"    * University of Trondheim              *
* She said, "I know how it feels son, * The Norwegian Institute of Tech.     *
* 'cause it runs in the family."      * Division of Physical Electronics     *
*       - The Who, Quadrophenia       * e-mail: dahl-stamnes@delab.sintef.no *
+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+--+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: paul@panix.com (Paul Gatker)
Subject: Re: TIME pedal maintenance
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 03:38:47 GMT
Organization: PANIX Public Access Unix, NYC
Keywords: clipless, time, overhaul, maintenance

 A problem I have had with Time "Racing" pedals is the rear plastic cover 
that goes over the major spring. On both pedals the cover just flops around  
as the tiny springs in them have escaped to the road. I fixed the problem
by prying the covers off completely. Pedals still work fine, are nominally
lighter in weight, but aesthetically I can't really tell as I can't see the
back of the pedals while I'm riding them.

-- 
*******************************************************************
paul@panix.com                                    COMPULITE GRAPHICS
Brooklyn NY usa                                Design & Consultation
********************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: weird@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (john.t.erhardt)
Subject: Re: Are 8sp Really Needed?
Organization: AT&T
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 22:15:53 GMT

In article <45250002@hpmwgde2.sr.hp.com> budn@hpmwtd.sr.hp.com (Bud Noren) writes:
>ehouse@Apple.COM (Eric House) writes:
>

Note this is for racing, where I believe most of the inovations are made.

For relatively flat criteriums I'd only need 3 cogs.  The 17 for the start of
the race and for cornering.  The 16 for the straight sections.  The 15
would be for sprints including the ones after every turn.  That's
it.    Okay maybe I'd need a 14 or 13 if broke away from the pack for
a solo win.  Then the bigger gear is needed to really mash the cranks.
You'll start to need more cogs for different terrains: Climbing, descending,
ITT (I've never done one but I think they usually use a bigger gear).
All of those things  are usually in a Classic or a multiday tour.  The pros
need all those gears.

Another reason is for selection.   Shimano Hyperglide 7speed has a 12-21 but
that doesn't include a 16.  I use my 16 a lot.  But Shimano doesn't like you making your own choices because of cog ramps and what not.   I've put in a 
different 16 HG cog and works almost as well.  Anyway, the eight speed 12-21
is the same as  a seven speed one plus the 16.

John



Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: praetzel@marconi.uwaterloo.ca (Eric Praetzel)
Subject: Re: caged vs. loose bearings
Keywords: headset, bottom bracket
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 11:29:59 GMT

In article <1992Oct7.000913.11823@mercury.unt.edu> jackson@ponder.csci.unt.edu (Bruce Jackson) writes:
>I usually use loose bearings on the bottom bracket just because
>they are a lot cheaper than caged bearings.

Well I have achieved the lo-tech solution.  After 1 year of commuting I find
that everything on my bike is rust-welded together.  I can't get the crank
arms off.  At the end of winter my BB bearings were clicking and binding 
sometimes.  I could not get it appart so I just kept riding and figured I
would heave the bike when it died.
  Well its still going. The bearings are gone and the axel is now riding on
the cones.  There is a bit of side play but I figure that I can get at least
a year out of this setup without further deterioration.  There are no bearings
to lubricate, no bearings to rust together when a salt-water slurrey gets in
during the first slushy winter days.
  In all; I think that my bike has evolved beyond bearing designs of all types.
Even the rear wheel is evolving along simular designs.  However, the only way
to remove/install it is with a hammer and that is getting tiresome.  But at 
least I always have the right tool to straighten the axel at hand.
  So does anyone know anything about chrome plated steel 'welding' to hi-carbon
steel?
  - Eric
From: casseres@apple.com (David Csseres)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Advice on chains..
Date: 7 Oct 92 17:40:12 GMT
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech
Organization: Apple Computr, Inc.

In article <Bvo7Ex.Dww@visix.com>, ken@visix.com (Ken Mayer) wrote:
> 
> I use a citrus chain degreaser from time to time to clean the gook off
> of the chain and cassette. Then I spray with silicon based lube spray.
> I've seen heavier weight stuff (almost waxy), is that more for
> mountain bikes? What's good criteria for clean the chain. 

Sounds like you're doing the right things, except there's no reason on
earth to use a spray.  You only need a tiny drop of oil on each link; let
it soak into the crack between the roller and the side plate, so it will
lubricate where you need lubrication, and then wipe the chain as dry as you
can get it.  A spray is incredibly wasteful and expensive, and if you leave
a lot of oil on the outside of the chain all it does is make dirt stick to
the chain.

A good criterion for when to clean the chain is when it either makes a
weird noise or grosses you out with its appearance.

--

David Casseres
Exclaimer: Wow!
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: arpepper@math.uwaterloo.ca (Adrian Pepper)
Subject: Re: Since we are talking about pro equip
Organization: University of Waterloo Math Faculty Computing Facility, Ontario.
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 15:07:15 GMT

In article <1992Oct8.220004.13224@news.cs.brandeis.edu> dkw@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (David Wittenberg) writes:
>In article <casseres-061092135509@missmolly.apple.com>, casseres@apple.com (David Casseres) writes:
>|> In article <1992Oct5.202330.5336@netcom.com>, tomk@netcom.com (Thomas H.
>|> Kunich) wrote:
>|> 
>|> [Harry Phinney wrote]
>|> > >I don't remember anybody mentioning 20 mph.  It is not reasonable to
>|> > >expect that everyone posting here has the same riding ability or
>|> > >participates in the same rides or races.
>|> > 
>|> > 20 mph is about the average speed of most people.
>|> 
>|> Ah, nothing like science.  What is this "average speed," please?  Averaged
>|> over all rides?  Races?  Training rides?  Commuting?  Grocery runs?
It seems to me that there can be two meanings for "average speed".  The
first would be the literal average computed by dividing trip distance
by time, probably deducting the time of long stops.  The second would
be the speed usually seen when looking at the speedometer when riding
level ground with no wind.

Adrian.
arpepper@math.uwaterloo.ca
From: rschetge%arrl.org (Bob Schetgen)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: helmet mounted lights?
Keywords: more info
Summary: Mfgr address
Date: 7 Oct 92 08:37:35 EDT
Organization: American Radio Relay League

In rec.bicycles.tech, rschetge%arrl.org (Bob Schetgen) writes:
>     I saw a head-mounted light at Eastern Mountain Sports 
>(Hartford, CT) store last weekend. It held two AA batteries 
>     EMS also had a solution better suited to my stingy
>It is a thing called Jakstrap ($5.50, from Oregon I >believe):
                                       ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Wrong! I brought in the package today. The Jakstrap is made 
by Liston Concepts, PO Box 2041, Salt Lake City, UT 84110.

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: sstrand@u.washington.edu (Stuart E. Strand)
Subject: Re: Helmets - keeping a cool head
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech
Organization: University of Washington
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 18:10:56 GMT

Steve Roberts, on his huge experimental bike rig, the BEHEMOTH, has a water
cooled skullcap that fits neatly under the helmet.  This cap is of the type
that fire fighters sometimes wear and has a bunch of fine tubes that
circulate water around his head.  The water is pumped from a reservoir
which he fills with ice prior to a ride.  He says it lasts all day.  I
think he said the reservoir is 17 L.  That's about 30 lbs!!  The cap is
light and the pump could be fairly light too.  I wonder what a system with
less capacity would weigh.  

////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/ Stuart Strand, Univ.Washington              sstrand@u.washington.edu /
/ AR-10, Seattle WA 98195 206-543-5350   uunet:  beaver!milton!sstrand /
////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tlt38517@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Terry Thiel)
Subject: Re: SPD pedals: any float?
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Sat, 17 Oct 1992 00:48:18 GMT

vinson@shiva.seas.upenn.edu (Jack Vinson) writes:
><1992Oct14.103507.1@pomona.claremont.edu> writes this in article oplascencia@pomona.claremont.edu
>>I'm interested in buying a pair of SPD pedals but I'm holding off my purchse
>>until I hear from other people with knee problems who have used them. I've
>>heard that they don't have any float. If that's true I would assume that
>>people with knee problems such as myself cannot use them. Anybody out
>>there got anything to say?
>I don't have knee problems, but I recently put a pair of SPuD's on my bike
>and they DO have some freedom.  There is a position at which the pedals
>tend to rest, but they do allow some heel motion.  This is my first pair of
>clipless pedals, so I can't compare to any other system.
The slight amount of "wiggle" the spd's allow is in no way comparable to real
"float" as with Time pedals.  If you have knee problems use Time pedals.
-Terry
From: farber@mailhost.aa.cad.slb.com (Phillip Farber)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Lighting System Info Wanted
Date: 15 Oct 92 21:30:24 GMT
Organization: Schlumberger CAD/CAM at Ann Arbor, MI

Hi,

Well the days are getting shorter around here and I'm planning to
purchase a lightset for my commuting bike.  There seem to be a lot of
options out there.  I'm leaning toward the high-end of the price
range.  It's my perception that if you want a high-output headlight (I
want to see and be seen) you've got to pay the bucks.

I'd like to hear opinions on lighting equipment that people are
currently using - good, bad, indifferent.

-- 
===========================================================================
Phillip Farber                            farber@ann-arbor.applicon.slb.com
Applicon Schlumberger                     farber@aaaca1.sinet.slb.com
Ann Arbor, Michigan 48106-0986 (USA)      ...!uunet!sharkey!applga!farber
From: sjang@cs.ubc.ca (Stanley Jang)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: helmet mounted lights?
Date: 8 Oct 1992 16:03:11 -0700
Organization: Computer Science, University of B.C., Vancouver, B.C., Canada
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: buster.cs.ubc.ca

I use a Petzl climbing/caving light as well.  I removed the
elastic straps and sewed velcro straps so that I can mount
the light through the ventilation holes of my helmet.  I've
also replaced the stock bulb for a 6V-3W halogen bulb 
common to the bicycle industry.  The nicad battery pack
that I built for it can be put in a jersey pocket, in one's
cycling shorts, or straped to one's arm like a walkman.
I prefer putting it in my pocket.  The light itself is about
a quarter pound, not too uncomfortable on one's head.

The best part is the effectiveness of the light for commutes.
It is much more noticeable than a light of similar wattage
mounted on the bike.  You can even shine the light directly
at drivers who may be pulling out onto the road to make sure
that they know you're there.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: brucer@gold.gvg.tek.com (Bruce Rayner)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Cateye Micro average speed algorithm?
Date: 15 Oct 92 16:58:41 GMT
Article-I.D.: gold.5427
Organization: Grass Valley Group, Grass Valley, CA


I'm posting this to the net as my direct E-mail reply bounced. If
anyone knows how to get it through, pls forward. Thanks.

Original sender:

From: dahls@fhydra.dnet.unit.no (Joern Yngve Dahl-Stamnes)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Cateye Micro average speed algorithm?
Date: 5 Oct 92 18:25:04 GMT
Reply-To: dahls@fhydra.dnet.unit.no (Joern Yngve Dahl-Stamnes)
Organization: University of Trondheim, NORWAY

Reply:


Joern:

I examined your program, compiled it and it ran OK.  An interesting
exercise, however, the algorithm doesn't fit, by my experience.
First, the avg spe on the Cateye only update periodically. (Ihaven't
measured the interval.)  Thus, your program should only show a
printout every ten seconds (by your algorithm), which would result
in a constant avg speed.

In fact, when the Cateye acts up is only at the update time; then it
may show an eroneous value for a second before showing the correct
value. Kind of like the wrong value got loaded in a register.  Doesn't
affect the overall accuracy.

This whole thing is kind of a non-issue, but I enjoyed your program
and looking at what you had done.

Bruce
Reply to: brucer@gold.gvg.tek.com (Bruce Rayner)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tomk@netcom.com (Thomas H. Kunich)
Subject: Re: Are 8sp Really Needed?
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 05:35:11 GMT

In article <92280.121948TOM@SLACVM.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU> TOM@SLACVM.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU writes:
>It seems to me, the seven speed cassette or freewheel is good enough.  My rear
>tringle is spread to accept the 8sp, but I see no advantages over the seven.
>In fact, I see disadvantages in weight adding another clog and weekness on
>the axle.  Is there something I'm missing?

Yeh, you're missing a bailout gear while keeping all of your presently
usable gears.

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: jpalmier@rvgs.vak12ed.edu (Jim Palmieri)
Subject: Re: Are 8sp Really Needed?
Organization: Virginia's Public Education Network (Roanoke)
Date: Wed, 07 Oct 92 15:33:19 GMT

<TOM@SLACVM.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU> writes:
> It seems to me, the seven speed cassette or freewheel is good enough.  My rear
> tringle is spread to accept the 8sp, but I see no advantages over the seven.
> In fact, I see disadvantages in weight adding another clog and weekness on
> the axle.  Is there something I'm missing?

Yes there is something you are missing, a gear!  If you live in
Iowa or where the roads are flat, 7 gears may be OK for your
freewheele but in mountainous areas, the extra gear can be the
difference of getting ove the hill.  Flexibility is the
answer.  You could cycle across the USA with just a 3 speed and
probably do it well, it is just a lot more pleasant doing it
with 16 gears.  Who knows wwhen that big wind will blow but
when it does it is nice to have the 13 (if the wind is to your
back) or that 26 if it is in your face.  You are not missing
anything if you feel that you are not missing anything.  Jim
-- 



   Dr. Jim Palmieri   
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: pardo@cs.washington.edu (David Keppel)
Subject: Re: Why no cantilevers on road-racing bikes?
Organization: Computer Science & Engineering, U. of Washington, Seattle
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 92 16:43:39 GMT

>>[Why aren't cantilevers used on road racing bikes?]

Jobst Brandt writes:
>[They aren't any lighter.]

Today I weighed a short-reach sidepull of mid-range quality.  The only
identifying marks are ``Grand Compe''.  I measured the complete wheel
assembly including levers, springs, QR, pinch bolt, housing adjust
barrel, half-worn brakepads, and tire guides.  It's a rear unit with
the shorter attatching bolt.  I did *not* measure any cable or housing
or the hand levers.  Total weight 180g (probably +/- 10g for the
inaccuracy of the scale).

Does anybody have figures for comparable cantis?  For the mounting
studs?

	;-D on  ( Just say NO to cantilevers on road-racing bikes )  Pardo
From: chrisv@carnival.lbl.gov (Chris Moll)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Are 8sp Really Needed?
Date: 12 Oct 1992 19:20:48 GMT
Organization: Lawrence Berkeley Laboratory
Reply-To: chris@carnival.lbl.gov (Chris Moll)
NNTP-Posting-Host: carnival.lbl.gov

Eric House writes:
>So, why would the people who first jumped at having eight speeds be the
>last to be caught with a triple in front?  Remember, we're not talking

Chainring shifts are *always* slower than cog shifts.  Triples have gotten
better, but so have rear derailleurs.  

Triples pop up occasionally in pro racing - Jeanie Longo used one to win the
Tour de France Feminin - but they never seem to catch on.

When I get in trouble due to gears, it's most often because I'm in the 
wrong chainring and can't shift fast enough.  Occasionally I'll dump
the chain.  Fewer chainrings certainly don't solve the problem but
they limit how much I have to mess with it.  My commuter bike doesn't
have a triple either, but that's mostly because my parts bin had lots of
double-chainring bits.

>(The weight gain is obvious.  The reduced strength in back comes from greater
>axle overhang and more extreme dish
Axle overhang is the main engineering problem that cassettes solve.  They
also reduce dish a bit.

STI designed to work with a triple - something like Shimano's own XTR crank -
might be a good combination. 
(I tried Campy Ergopower with a triple - it sucked).
--
Chris Moll                       (510)486-7891
---
"Blessed are they who Go Around in Circles, for they Shall
be Known as Wheels."
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: gunawan@envmsa.eas.asu.edu (iwan gunawan)
Subject: Need advice on Vetta cyclocomputers
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.4-b1  
Organization: Arizona State University, Tempe, AZ
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 23:58:00 GMT

Hi everyone,

I'm considering buying a Vetta C-10 or C-20 for my mountain bike.
Actually, I don't need the cadence and the average speed, so I think the
C-10 is good enough.  I'm wondering what people's experience with these two
models are.  Does anybody ever have a bad experience?  Is the C-10 rear-wheel
or front-wheel mounted?  If it is mounted on the front wheel, do I need a
special MTB mounting kit?  My Trek 930 has oversized forks, so I figure out
that the mount that comes with it won't fit.

Thank's a lot for any information. Please reply by email.

-- iwan gunawan
   gunawan@envmsa.eas.asu.edu
From: gcarter!gcarter (George Carter)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: chainring phasing
Keywords: chainring phasing
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 92 20:25:10 PDT
Distribution: world
Organization: SFBAC

On a recently assembled triple chainring I experienced horrible
shifting to the middle chainring from both directions.  I took off
the middle chainring and carefully compared it to another I had looking
for bends, etc.  The only difference was these otherwise identical
rings were "phased" differently with respect to the bolt holes when
the stamped lettering was oriented.  In other words the teeth of one
started maybe 60 degrees later.  When I changed the rings and thus 
the phasing the triple worked terrific.  I did not check this but
possibly I could have changed the phase just by rotating the same
ring.  These are ordinary SR round rings, not the pre-worn Shimino
ones.  Is it necessary to properly phase ordinary front chainrings?
Has everyone else been doing this and I just discovered it?  Maybe
I was just lucky in the past?
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: jackson@ponder.csci.unt.edu (Bruce Jackson)
Subject: Re: Oops...Michelin tire width confusion
Organization: University of North Texas, Denton
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 20:45:39 GMT

In article <1687EA507.MEDELMA@cms.cc.wayne.edu> MEDELMA@cms.cc.wayne.edu (Michael Edelman) writes:

>In a recent posting I made reference to Michelin 700x28 Comps. Well,
>they don't make a tire labeled 700x28. They do, however, make a tire
>labeled 700x23 that is as wide, or wider, than any 700x28 I've
>compared them to.

>This can be very confusing. I like a 28 width tire, whether the
>Michelin 700x23 or the Avocet 700x28, but it's hard to know without
>direct comparison what the actual width of a tire is. I've heard
>that Continental is the only makers whose tires run absolutely
>true to size, but I'm sure others will contest that. I dunno, myself.

First of all the advertised tire width is not anything you can
measure. (Well, I dunno for sure, perhaps Conti has some system to
their widths).  My theory is that the marked sizes are thought up by
the marketing department and they call a tire whatever size they think
will do the best job selling it.  This was very troublsome when I was
in the business trying to explain to customers that a 700x23 in brand
X is actually wider than a 700x25 in brand Y.  I've had irate
customers bring tires back when the width didn't exactly match their
other tire of another make.  Of course they were always sure that the
tire they already had must be the definitive size and all others are
wrong and we were the crooks for selling them tires we knew were
non-standard. (The great thing about standards is that there are so
many of them!).  Indeed Michelins are a pretty generous tire.  This is
why they go all the way down to 700x20.  Their 700x20 is still larger
than some other brands 700x23 marked tires.

Bruce  -  jackson@cs.unt.edu