HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: A/C manifold gauges question
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 17:59:23 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

In article <1992Sep10.162339.23464@news.nd.edu> mikeb@nowaksg.chem.nd.edu (Michael George Buening) writes:
>In article <1992Sep9.230529.19206@gtephx.UUCP> rakoczynskij@gtephx.UUCP (Jurek Rakoczynski) writes:
>>example, the pressure in a propane tank will read the same at a given
>>temperature no matter how much propane is actually in the tank. 
>
>Whoa!!! What is the logic behind this statement.  I'm not sure what
>you mean here but I can't make sense of this.  As many of you know from
>a simple chem/phys text:              PV=nRT
>where P=pressure; V=volume; n=amount of the gas (in moles); T=temp
>and R= gas constant.  When you change any one of the variables,
>n,T or V, you change P.  If you have more propane in a tank at the
>same temp you will have more pressure.  Because this is related to
>n, or the amount of propane, you can correlate pressure with concentration
>if you know what the volume is.
>
 This is the Ideal Gas Law. Heavy molecules are far from ideal. Propane
liquifies under sufficient pressure (the vapor pressure at a given
temperature). If you have any liquid in the tank the pressure -will be-
the vapor pressure (at equilibrium) by definition. Any additional propane
will be liquid, not gas.
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: Carburetors, gasoline, and why I don't recycle
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 92 07:07:17 GMT

Dave Williams (dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us) wrote:
: 
: -> : gallon.  On a news program years ago, I saw a group of college :
: -> students who had developed a carburetor that guaranteed at least :
: -> 100 miles per gallon of regular unleaded gasoline.
: 
: > Here we go again.  What you describe is called an URBAN LEGEND.
: 
:  Yup.  It must be that time of year again.
: 
:  About five years ago, Motor Trend did a cover story on an engine that
: burned water.  Even the SAE's journal got suckered by that one.  After a
: few months, they quietly dropped the stories.
: 
:  Oh, and don't forget the Smokey Yunick Miracle Motor, or the various
: wonder machines burning methane from fermented chicken manure, or any of
: dozens of Popular Science specials.

OK, that's an interesting leap of logic.  We go from a method that is 
impractical (burning H2 from hydrolyzed water) to a method that does work,
that of burning methane from biomass.  Perhaps you can explain to us how the
two are the same?  Seems to me that renewable resources are the way to
go.

Burn alcohol.  Support the farmers.


--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
hinzd@picard.med.ge.com
From: rmurphy@usc.edu (Bob Murphy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Oil type???
Date: 12 Sep 1992 19:14:28 -0700
Organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA
Distribution: na
NNTP-Posting-Host: aludra.usc.edu

Exactly what do the numbers and letters on a container of oil stand for?
I have a new Mercury Tracer and am about to get my first oil change.
The owner's manual says to use 5W-30 oil.  Should I mention this to
the service station or will they know which type of oil to use?
So far we have only found one store which sells 5W-30 so I am guessing
that the station would simply use 10W-40 or some other more common type
of oil.  If my guess is correct, will this be bad for the engine?

Thanks,
  Bob Murphy (rmurphy@aludra.usc.edu)
From: darrellm@pogo.wv.tek.com (Darrell McGinnis)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: 85 chev celebrity
Keywords: help
Date: 15 Sep 92 00:12:16 GMT
Organization: Tektronix Inc., Beaverton, Or.



	hi,

	I've recently aqcuired a 85 chevy celebrity wagon.
	This car has a 2.8 tranverse mounted v6.
	155,000 mi.
	
	I have noticed a few problems:
	
	
	1) check engine light goes on after engine is hot
	
	Actually, this turns out to be a code 42, EST/bypass
	error.
	
	What exactly is the failure ? 
	(no tach signal?/ no spark advance?)
	
	when the engine is hot, the idle will sometimes become
	eratic.
	
	2) when cold (in the morning) engine has
	eratic idle in reverse & stalls (only reverse,
	park/nuetral/drive are OK)
	
	
	3) when driving a constant speed 40mph the
	car will surge on occasion, acceleration/deceleration
	is fine.
	
	4) oil leak around crank pulley
	
	
	are 1/2/3 possibly related ?

	I clared the error codes and made sure only code 42 (EST)
	occurs & there are no other indicated errors.
	
	Drivability is otherwise fine. MPG is 20.
	climbs hills readily.
	
	I have not yet checked if spark advance doen't happen
	when check engine is lit. This would indicate a faulty
	module in the distributor ??
	
	
	By the way, the dealer sold us the car for $2500 and told
	us (in writting) that odometer indicated 55,000 original 
	miles.
	
	The dealer (a used car lot) called us & informed us of 
	the actual milage (once they got the title)  & 
	we'll likely give the car back to them,
	(they said OK to that) instead of taking some adjustment
	money from them.
	
	
	I was pretty impressed that they didn't try to sneak
	it by us & were honest & reasonable (so far).
	
	But I'd also like to figure out the above problems,
	so any info would be appreciated.
	
	darrellm

--------
Darrell McGinnis				darrellm@pogo.WV.TEK.COM
Tektronix, Inc., P.O. Box 1000, MS 63-356
Wilsonville, OR 97070
(503) 685-3285
--------
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: limd@teal.csn.org (Davin Lim)
Subject: Throttle response from stop lags
Organization: Colorado SuperNet, Inc.
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 17:21:08 GMT

I have an '84 Pontiac 6000STE with a 2.8l V6 (normally-aspirated) that has some
behavior I'd like to better understand (and get fix, if needed.)  If I try to
accellerate "hard" from a stopped position (e.g. flooring the throttle,) there 
is a distinct lag in the engine's response.  It will actually take a second or
two to start building significant RPMs.  Things seem to be more responsive if 
I don't floor the pedal but rather depress it more smoothly.  The car runs
fine, otherwise, with reatively quick response to throttle inputs while the
car is already in motion.  Any answers?

Thanks!

-Davin (limd@arraytech.com, limd@csn.org)

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: brantley@infonode.ingr.com (Dwight D. Brantley)
Subject: Re: Gassoline smell in Oil
Keywords: SAAB 900 T
Organization: Intergraph Corporation, Huntsville, AL.
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 13:17:31 GMT

In article <183480@pyramid.pyramid.com> aahsan@pyramid.COM (Agha Ahsan) writes:
>
>	When I changed the oil in my '84 SAAB 900 T last month
>	I noticed that the old oil had a little smell of gasoline
>	in it and also looked to be very thin.
>	What can be causing this. I have not had starting problems
>	so I have not been cranking the engine.
>

Carburator is way too rich.  Most likely needs a rebuild.

      ******************************************************************
      *   Dwight Brantley    *   Failure Analysis & Reliability Dept.  *
      *  Intergraph, Corp.   *  Reply To: brantley@falab1.b21.ingr.com *
      *   Huntsville, AL     *           Voice: 205-730-4456           *
      ******************************************************************
From: exulox@exu.ericsson.se (Lasse Ohlsson, T/TDT, 1129)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Toyota Oil Filters Vs. The Others
Date: 11 Sep 92 18:55:08 GMT
Reply-To: exulox@exu.ericsson.se
Organization: Ericsson Network Systems, Inc.

Jeffrey Ehlinger Wrote:
>     Toyata tells me that only genuine Toyata Oil filters have a 
>mechanism inside them that preventsall the oil from draining into the oil 
>pan.    .....   How does the mechanism work in the filter?

This is very simple. It is a rubber flap that allows the oil to go one
way through the filter and not the other.  Most oil filters have this
"feature" today. (Personally I haven't seen one without it yet)

It is also easy to check if the (brand new and clean :) filter has this flap: 
Try to blow air  through the filter. It should not work, but if you suck, it
should work just fine. (Or was it the opposit? I can't quite remember)

Happy checking!
---

+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Lasse Ohlsson         Ericsson Network Systems Inc.         (EXU Dallas) |
| E-mail: exulox@exu.ericsson.se       Memo: exu.exulox@memo.ericsson.se   |
| I don't want to have anything to do with what my company does or says... | 
| Or was it the opposite? Oh well.. regard this as a sort of a disclaimer. |
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bill@hood.tandem.com (Bill Norcott)
Subject: Re: EGR and EVP on Mercury Grand Marquis
Reply-To: norcott_bill@tandem.com  (Bill Norcott)
Organization: Tandem Computers, Inc.
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 18:29:40 GMT

In article <1992Sep15.131348.17021@cactus.org>, ninke@cactus.org (Don A. Ninke) writes:
|> I have a 1985 Mercury Grand Marquis with the 5.0L engine.

<lots of stuff deleted>
|>    1. What does EVP stand for?  Maybe "EGR Valve Position" sensor?
|>    2. What role does the EVP perform?
|>    3. Is the EVP a passive device, like a variable resistor?


The EVP is the EGR valve position sensor.  It is a white plastic
cap which sits on top the EGR.  The EVP contains a spring loaded
plunger that presses against the EGR diaphragm.  The EGR is a 
switch not a resistor.  Depending on how far the plunger is compressed
it will touch one of the contacts spaced along the body of the EGR.
I can't rememver if there is just one contact for wide open or maybe
another one for partway open.  The signal from the EVP is fed back
into the EEC-IV computer as one of its inputs.
-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------|
Bill Norcott			GUARDIAN POSIX project
Tandem Computers, Inc.		
10600 N. Tantau Avenue		PHONE:  (408) 285-3253
Cupertino, CA   95014		EMAIL: norcott_bill@tandem.com
From: dak@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu (David Kardelis- I am the NRA)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Draining tank
Date: 11 Sep 92 22:47:46 GMT
Reply-To: dak@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu
Organization: High Energy Physics, University of Illinois, Urbana-Champaign


	Thanks to all you who sent me mail regarding how to drain the
gas tank.

	Several people asked for any info I got on how to do this.
The responses I got all said pretty much the same thing.

	Fill the bowl of the carburator manually and run hose off the
fuel pump. As long as the engine is running it will pump the fuel out of the
tank. 
	I modified this slightly, I put a T in the gas line from the 
fuel pump to the carb. I then ran the line off the T into a gas tank.
I was not too worried about getting gunk in the carb from the tank since
I put in over 7 gallons and only was taking about 8 out. The crud should 
be fairly well diluted.
					dave

==========================================================================
   David Kardelis		| I am the NRA-NRA Life
   Gradual Student in Physics   |
   Univ. of Ilinois		|	Looking for a new .SIG
   dak@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu	|
   217-333-0505			|
Not necessarily the views of the ISSC or the UI At UC
==========================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kenny@osf.org (Kenneth Crudup)
Subject: Re: Looking for a 12V vacuum pump
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1992 01:01:09 GMT

In article <2017@gvgspd.GVG.TEK.COM>
kcw@gvgdsd.GVG.TEK.COM (Kenneth C. Wunner) writes:
>I am looking for a 12V DC vacuum pump to install into my Jeep Cherokee.

In article <1992Sep14.225717.18502@newstand.syr.edu>
ravalent@rodan.acs.syr.edu (Readin' Da News...) writes:
>   Try looking in the local salvage yard for a 82-84 Chevy Cavalier
>with a manual trans.  Inside the bottom front drivers side fender is
>a small vacuum pump.

I think only 82-83 models have this. I used to own an '84 Cadavalier (RIP),
and knew just about everything about that car (good ol' reliable American
engineering :-( ). I don't remember any electric vacuum pump, esp. in that
area.

	-Kenny
-- 
Kenneth R. Crudup, Contractor, OSF DCE QA
OSF, 11 Cambridge Center, Cambridge, MA 02142	+1 617 621 7306
kenny@osf.osf.org			OSF has nothing to do with this post.
Not one of the "PC" weenies.
From: pzh@myna.dsto.gov.au (Paul Heuer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Supercharged vehicles
Date: 16 Sep 92 20:06:23 GMT

hempsp@an.hp.com (Paul Hempstead) writes:

>Paul Heuer (pzh@myna.dsto.gov.au) wrote:
>  Although the supercharger is always running and taking power from the motor,
>  the power it does take is related to the load on the engine.  For instance,
>  in a properly set-up Rootes system (constant-volume), if there is no load on
>  the motor, then there will be no boost (approximately) over a wide range of
>  rpm's.  The main power loss is due to drive friction.  The boost level increases
>  as the load on the motor increases, up to the point where rotor blow-by limits
>  the boost.  A turbocharger is essentially a constant-pressure device (over a
>  limited range).

>  A blower's operating temperature is strongly dictated by the amount of rotor
>  blow-by.  The more the blow-by, the hotter it runs.

>  The only benefit I have found of a turbocharger over a supercharger is that
>  the turbo is far easier to intercool.  For Do-it-yourselfers, I have found that
>  superchargers are easy to install, and with a little bit of scrounging at 
>  junkyards with Detroit Diesels, can be installed for about the same price as a
>  turbo setup.  Blower life expectancy has never been a problem for me.


>Paul Hempstead
>Hewlett-Packard
>E-mail:   hempsp@hp-and.an.hp.com

Paul,
What about rotor seal wear? Have you had to have the seals on the egdes of the
rotors replaced? Is this wear proportional to blow-by and/or boost? I've heard
horror stories of seals failing after 10,000kms. Any truth?
Now this is interesting stuff! Much better than "how can I clean the ashtray of
my Chevelle"!

Cheers,
Paul Heuer (pzh@aeg.dsto.gov.au)
From: wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii)
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 18:34:21 GMT
Subject: Annoying Achieva
Organization: Hewlett Packard - Boise, ID
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

While renting an Oldsmobile Achieva the other day, I noticed that anytime
the car was taken out of Park, then the doors would lock.  This ended up
being an annoyance since you have to flip the door lock lever plus pull the
door release everytime you wanted to get out.  

Is this law now? Or is it done because the Oldsmobile doors won't stay
closed by themselves?

If it were my personal car, I think the wire cutters would solve the
problem very nicely...

Wes Fujii

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Wes Fujii               *           JAPANESE BUSINESS MOTTO           *
* Boise, Idaho            *        You can buy anything you want        *
* wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com *             with a lot of money             *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
From: hayes@ultra.com (John Hayes)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Jeep YJ
Date: 8 Sep 92 15:48:55 GMT
Organization: Ultra Network Technologies

In <14940@mindlink.bc.ca> David_Cristofoli@mindlink.bc.ca (David Cristofoli) writes:

>I am very interested in purchasing a Jeep YJ soon. I would like some feedback
>regarding other peoples personal views on this vehicle. I would like the good
>and the bad.

I purchased a '91 YJ about 1 1/2 years ago.  So far I am VERY pleased with it.

I have only had one problem, after about 4k miles, the clutch slave cylinder
went.  It seems that the bellhousing was incorrectly machined and ate the
slave cylinder.  The dealer replaced both the bellhousing and the slave 
cylinder without question.  Since them I have had no problems at all.

On things to watch out for, make sure that you get the 4.0 litre engine.  I'd 
also reccomend the trac-lock rear.  All around a good vehicle if you don't 
need to haul a lot of people around.  Even with the rear seat, things can get 
a bit tight.

Good luck.

JOhn.
-- 
John Wm. Hayes 						hayes@ultra.com  
Ultra Network Technologies				(408)922-0100 x202
From: jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: A/C manifold gauges question
Date: 12 Sep 92 08:36:07 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.

wpcallah@RWASIC17.AUD.ALCATEL.COM (William Paul Callahan) writes:

>I think the system is contaminated with air, reducing the heat capacity of 
>the system, and raising the system pressures. It is also possiable, that the
>oriface is way open, and the system way overcharged. (if this is the case,
>the evaporator would be cool with a lower high-side pressure of, say 200)

I'm inclined to think the system is air contaminated too.  Has little
to do with efficiency though.  The pressure in the system is the sum
of the partial pressures of the various gases.  If the pressure
is significantly higher than the temperature indicates it should be,
that almost always means non-condensables in the system (translate: air).
BTW, the term is orfice.

>R12 is 'spencive (unless you happen to have bought 120lbs after reading
>about the international treaty to ban it in the mid-80s :). Since you
>may have a contaminated system, it would have to be evacuated to fix,
>and you cannot save the R12 - because it has air. 

Sure you can.  Air separation is a trivial matter.  Pump the mix into
a suitable cylinder, chill the cylinder until all the freon is liquified
and drain off the liquid, taking care to not draw anything from the vapor
space.  What is left in the vapor space are the noncondensables and 
a bit of freon.   Freon can even be distilled to remove dissolved 
contaminants.  No reason to ever throw any away.

I've been doing this for years, even before the econazis made it fashonable,
simply because I'm a cheap bastard and didn't particularly like to tithe to
DuPont.

John

-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC               |Interested in high performance mobility?  
Performance Engineering Magazine (TM) |
Marietta, Ga                         |Interested in high tech and computers? 
jgd@dixie.com                        |Write me about PE Magazine
Need Usenet public Access in Atlanta?  Write Me for info on Dixie.com.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: Snow Tires
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 92 09:04:26 GMT

richard welty (welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM) wrote:
: 
: you will indeed want good snow tires; very good ones.
: 
: the best in the world appear to be the Nokia NR10; this is a finnish
: made tire with impeccable deep snow manners.  it is available in restricted
: sizes; its predecessor, the NR09 is available in most other sizes, and
: the NR09 was the best you could get until the NR10 came out.

I'll second the strong vote of approval for the NR10's & NR09's.  They
know what snow IS in Finland, after all.  These tires are the tire of
choice among the ice-racers up here in sunny Wisconsin, and are by
far the best I've had for adverse condition driving.

Richard mentions one mail-order house, so I'll mention another:

Greer Enterprises
(414) 964-7463

I generally pay much less than the $80.00 Richard mentions, and Pat (Greer)
will stud your tires if desired.  (I don't work for him, by the way, but
he is a great person to deal with).

As Richard says, these are GREAT in snow, they are great on ice, and
fantastic in rain.  You will find them noisy, but I think that's a minor
point when it comes to having your car in control.

The NR10's are directional, BTW.

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.
hinzd@picard.med.ge.com
From: wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii)
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 05:42:20 GMT
Subject: Re: Tyre pressure vs circumference vs speedo accuracy!
Organization: Hewlett Packard - Boise, ID
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

Since tire circumference is very rigid due to the thick tread, even
with low pressure and reduced axle-to-ground "radius", the distance
travelled will not vary much depending on air pressure.  The small
differences that occur are due to the tread squirming or if it 
really gets low enough, you could get a fold going that may shorten
the distance travelled.

If you watch the (low) tire as it is rolled, the ground speed is
dependant on tread position and lots of movement can be noted in the
area of the "bulge".  This movement normally translates into heat
because of the sidewall flexing.  That's why low tires often catch 
on fire about the time they go flat.

If your speedo is off, I would suggest finding out what tire originally
came stock on the car and try to find out ITS actual dimensions are.

Wes Fujii

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Wes Fujii               *           JAPANESE BUSINESS MOTTO           *
* Boise, Idaho            *        You can buy anything you want        *
* wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com *             with a lot of money             *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
From: ihusain@pyramid.COM (Intisar Husain)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: LEAN_RIGHT/FORWARD->ENGINE DIES (HELP)
Keywords: 82 Nissa Sentra
Date: 15 Sep 92 23:31:20 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Pyramid Technology Corporation, Mountain View, California

In article <195fp2INN58q@worm.crhc.uiuc.edu>, choi@crhc.uiuc.edu (Gwan) writes:
|> 
|> Hello,
|> 
|> I'd truelly appreciate any insight into
|> what/where I should consider looking into
|> to fix a problem that I am having with my Sentra.
|> 
|> The engine dies everytime I take left turn or make a hard stop.
|> This happens when Gas tank is full..so I suspect it's not the
|> fuel pick up.

Did you check the idling?

|> I am wondering what it could be.. and if you happened to
|> experienced similar (or if you are a insighful mechanic)
|> with Sentra or any other car, I'd really appreciate it if you
|> could tell me what might be wrong with the car.
|> 
|> Also the car puffs out white smokes in the beginning whe
|> engine is just started.  After while, it becomes ok.. 

If this white smoke is at the time when you start cold, then
it is ok..

|> Since it doesn't persist, it must not be piston-ring problem..
|> so..what could it be.....
|> 
|> Lots of thanks in advance for advices,
|> Gwan
|> 
|> 	Please email choi@chrc.uiuc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rcrandall@sc9.intel.com
Subject: Re: Dura-Lube
Organization: Intel CTD
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1992 21:32:19 GMT

In article <1992Sep5.060509.29124@ee.ubc.ca>, johni@ee.ubc.ca (john ip) writes:
> I have been check this group for any posting on Dura-Lube and so far, no body
> said much about it.  So...
> 
> Has anybody tried this stuff?
> 
> Have they put Dura-Lube through tests by a trust worthy 3rd party? 
> 
> You have to agree that in the commercial, having the tests done in this 
> shack of a garage with a bunch of oogling mechanics looking on is pretty 
> suspicious. 


I saw the commercial the other day.  I am suspicious too.  I noticed one
thing worth mentioning here.  All the tests run on the bearings with the
"other stuff"  were run with a normal oil supply.  When the dura lube was
used their was no oil used.  Likewise in the "engine test."  This changing
of the experiment would invalidate their claims.

Rob
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:12325 rec.autos.driving:5309