HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: axman@acadia.Kodak.COM (Mike Axman)
Subject: Re: Time to boycott Photo CD
Organization: Eastman Kodak Co., Rochester, NY
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 92 11:30:46 GMT

In article <1992Sep2.141849.16155@lmpsbbs.comm.mot.com>, dougb@comm.mot.com (Doug Bank) writes:


>Now for a question.  The consumer machines allow zooming and cropping
>of the images.  You can also choose to skip some images or play them 
>back in a different order.  How does the machine store this info.
>You can't write to the CD, can you?  If it stores in inside the machine,
>what happens when you take it to another player?  Anybody know?
>

The data is stored in some static ram in the player, similar to the 
"favorite track selection" info  utilized in conventional CD Audio, 
using the id number of the CD as reference.
Yes, this means if you take it to another player, the information is 
not retained with the Photo CD, until the time when writers are so cheap 
that every reader is a writer and the Photo CD can be directly updated. 

People having been looking into other methods of allowing this information 
to be transferred from player to player, but I'm not sure what direction 
the player development is taking in this regard.

>
>-- 
>Doug Bank                       Private Systems Division
>dougb@ecs.comm.mot.com          Motorola Communications Sector
>dougb@nwu.edu                   Schaumburg, Illinois
>dougb@casbah.acns.nwu.edu       708-576-8207                    

-- 
Mike Axman  
CD-Imaging Advanced Development
Eastman Kodak Company
axman@acadia.kodak.com



DISCLAIMER:
Kodak gives me this Net access for free, but they aren't responsible for my postings.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: sparks@col.hp.com (John Sparks)
Subject: Re: Designing fast non-50mm lenses
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 17:59:05 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division

In article <TSOS.69.714835291@uni-duesseldorf.de> TSOS@uni-duesseldorf.de (Detlef Lannert) writes:
>Some fast wide-angle lens designs even use aspheric elements; I wonder
>if Pentax were the first to "cheat" and to mould an aspheric plastic
>ring onto the spheric front lens of their new 24/2.0. Has anybody
>heard of other manufacturers using the same technique? Would you have
>any faith in such a construction? (What about the long-term stability
>of the compound or the resistance of plastic to UV radiation or ...??)

I read that Nikon uses this technique in their 28-70 zoom and that this
is the first lens Nikon has used this on.

John Sparks
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: hasn@midway.uchicago.edu (Sheheryar Hasnain)
Subject: Enlarger kit
Organization: University of Chicago
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 15:10:10 GMT

I will be taking a b&w photo course starting in Oct.  I spoke with the 
instructor and he told me that if I did want to buy an enlarger, I may
want to look into this kit that comes with everything (you just need water)
for about $135.  I think the brand name begun with a "B."  Has anyone heard 
this?  Is it any good?  He did say that the enlarger is not the best but
worth the money.  I would appreciate any advice.
From: gsnow@clark.edu (Gary Snow)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: 1 day photo trips from San Jose, CA
Date: 2 Sep 92 23:27:03 GMT
Article-I.D.: clark.1992Sep2.232703.19032
Organization: Clark College, Vancouver, Wa.  USA

I am posting this for a person that doesn't have post access on his machine,
so direct all correspondence to his address below or to this group, so he
can read the responces.

-------------------------------- Cut Here --------------------------------

I will be visiting the Bay area in mid Sept., and have Sat. free.  I
would like to spend the day on nature photography, and would like
suggestions or comments on where I can go for this.  I plan to get up
*early* Sat. morning so that I drive in the dark and am on location at
sunrise.  It may be a long time before I have such an opportunity again.
 
I have identified two potential locations to visit.  The first is to
go north along the coast to Muir Woods and Point Reyes and whatever else is
time permiting.  I have heard that Point Reyes is not as crowded as some
other areas (?) and offers good natural scenes.
 
The second idea is Yosemite.  Of course, this entails a 4 hour predawn
drive.  I must return to San Jose Sat night.  Is this enough time, or should
I save Yosemite for sometime when I have a whole weekend or more?  Also,
does the crowd situation permit serious photo taking.  (I don't mind hiking,
but time is an issue.)  It is probably not worth 8 hours of driving just to
say I have seen it and to take a few casual snapshots.
 
Any comments or other suggestions would be quite welcome.  I realize SF
itself is an excellent photographic location, but I am really
interested more in nature photos.
 
Please Reply to the address below or post to this newsgroup, as I have
asked someone else to post this for me.  (I read this newsgroup too
frequently).
 
Reply to: karl@ppe.ppd.ti.com
These are my opinions only.

-------------------------------- Cut Here --------------------------------
-- 
-----
Gary Snow
uunet!clark!gsnow  or  gsnow@clark.edu
From: donl@glass.esd.sgi.com (donl mathis)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Zone System
Date: 27 Aug 92 18:10:09 GMT
Reply-To: donl@glass.esd.sgi.com (donl mathis)
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc., Mountain View, CA, USA


In article <2050@deadmin.ucsd.edu>, napier@cs.ucsd.edu (Jim Napier) writes:
|> 
|> 
|> I was digging through the books I got when I was studying photography in the
|> '70s. One of them was a book on Ansel Adam's Zone System. Is this
method still
|> used at all?  [...]

The zone system has been in constant use since its inception, and has
constantly undergone various alterations and perversions, so now we
have a much wider range of activities masquerading under the name.
Accept no substitutes!  :)

We often discuss various aspects of it here in rec.photo.

- donl mathis at Silicon Graphics Computer Systems, Mountain View, CA
donl@sgi.com
From: wjh@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (william.j.hery)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Which is first camera with TTL meter?
Date: 4 Sep 92 01:48:19 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: AT&T

liang@saul.cis.upenn.edu (Chuck Liang) writes:
>
>   Does anybody know for sure which SLR was the first to incorporate
>TTL metering?  

Pentax claims to have invented TTL metering. I have a 1965 brochure for the
Pentax Spotmatic that has a picture of the prototype demonstrated at the 1960
Photokina in Cologne, Germany. The brochure does not claim that it is the
only TTL camera available in 1965.

I'm not sure which was the first commercially available camera with TTL
(other posters have already suggested some possibilities), but I think
that in the mid 60s Honeywell was claiming in the US that the Spotmatic
was the first camera with TTL; I do remember that after the Spotmatic
came out Nikon came out with a TTL model (Nikkormat??) and a TTL finder
for the interchangable finder Nikon F. I'm pretty sure that those were the
only 3 TTL cameras that were shown at the NY camera show I went to back
then, before I got the Spotmatic.

Bill Hery
AT&T Bell Labs
201-386-2362
hery@att.COM
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Nikon FG (? info wanted)
From: fred-mckenzie@ksc.nasa.gov (Fred McKenzie)
Date: 27 Aug 92 12:27:23 EST
Followup-To: rec.photo
Distribution: world
Organization: NASA/Kennedy Space Center, Florida

In article <1992Aug27.002319.8577@citec.oz.au>, sgccpgs@citec.oz.au (Paul
Salanitri) wrote:
> What is the difference between an FG and an FG-20, I know the latter is
> slightly newer, but is it a super set, at does it lack some features that
> the FG has?????

Paul-

I understand the FG and FG-20 are distinctly different cameras.  The FG has
TTL flash capability, the FG-20 does NOT.  Apparently the FG-20 was a less
expensive model.

fred-mckenzie@ksc.nasa.gov
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: Robert Drongowski <Robert.Drongowski@cc.umich.edu>
Subject: Re: Inrared Photog + Spider Webs
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 92 12:51:46 EDT
Organization: Pediatric Surgery, U of Michigan
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1b2

Robert.Drongowski@cc.umich.edu (Robert Drongowski)
	Can anyone offer suggestions or their experience regarding
picture-taking of spider webs with Infrared film.  I have taken many web
pictures with both B&W and Color film with reasonable success.  However,
a small article in Science a few years back indicated that taking
pictures of webs with infrared film produces a unique glow within
portions of the web structure which mimics flower structures etc.  The
example they printed in the article was fairly neat, with one strand of
web highlighted from oputside to the very center of the web (which
presumably acts to attract insects etc).
	I subsequently shot a number of webs with no noticeable effect with the
film I used; ie. It looked like regular black and white film without any
effect of Infrared.  However, a few flowers that I shot did produce an
unusual effect which indicated to me that the film was "good".  I know
must one take extreme measures in handling the film (refrigerated,
absolutely no light while loading/unloading film, etc).
	Does anyone know if it's only certain spider-webs which produce this
result?  Are there any other tricks using infrared film which could
enhance my chances for success?
Could the developers have used a different method to enhance the effect?
Thanks for any suggestions, they are well appreciated.
BOB DRONGOWSKI,  Ann Arbor, Michigan
From: goldberg@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Mark Goldberg)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Need film recommendation for baby's birth
Date: 28 Aug 92 17:29:35 GMT
Reply-To: goldberg@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Mark Goldberg)
Organization: Naval Surface Warfare Center, Annapolis, MD

Based on my personal experience at photographing my son's birth plus
first few portraits in the hospital, I strongly recommend Ektapress
1600.

I think it is the best high-speed film around.  It is somewhat grainy,
but that doesn't detract from the image.  My portrait of him taken then
- and much later - have a wonderful, natural look to them.  The birth
pictures were far better thatn anything the hospital's contract pro
could have taken (I wouldn't let him near my son!).  I have made poster-size
enlargements from Ektapress 1600 and they look fime.  But there is a
different rendition from portraits on ASA 100 -range films like VPS,
Kodacolor 100, and Ektapress 100.

A good reason for the ASA 1600 is that you'll get good results with
a variety of lenses, handheld with no flash.  Many nurseries have a
problem with the flashes.  It may make the infants cry.  And the lighting
is harsh and un-natural, hardly the look you'd want for a newborn.

My euipment included:  Nikon 8008 body, 60mm f2.8 Micro Nikkor AF, 35-135
AF zoom.  Birth shots were taken by the anethesioligist (Caesarian was
infvolved).  The 60mm let me get fairly close; infant faces are small!




   /|/| /||)|/  /~ /\| |\|)[~|)/~   |   Everyone's entitled to MY opinion.
  / | |/ ||\|\  \_|\/|_|/|)[_|\\_|  |      goldberg@oasys.dt.navy.mil
========Imagination is more important than knowledge. - Albert Einstein=======
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au (Paul Repacholi)
Subject: Re: polycarbonate camera bodies
Organization: Curtin University of Technology
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 18:07:59 GMT

In article <1992Aug26.153347.144265@zeus.calpoly.edu>, glporter@zeus.calpoly.edu (Glen Porter) writes:
> In article <7825@public.BTR.COM> rah@public.BTR.COM (Richard A Hyde  rah@btr.com) writes:
>>Well, I've seen a lot of theoretical discussion...
>>
>>Let's see what the combined readership of the net can do....  :-)
>>
>>Has anyone ever dropped their polycarbonate camera?  How far?  On to what?
>>
>>and, of course,..  *what happened* !?
>>

Not yet, HOWEVER. 1 an AWG fire hose branch ( nozzle, the metal bit you hang
on to... ) dropped from 15' onto the body of a 28-80L. I can't find the slight
flat spot in the ... wait, I just found it, next to the distance scale. Realy,
it is very, VERy hard to find. The AWG weighs about 15 LB, goes on a 3 1/2"
hose. NOT a little fire-reel type.

2 my daughter was running with the lens hood off the same lens over her arm
when she tripped over on the blue-metaled road. Blue metal is crushed dollomite,
about 3/4" screen. She fell on one elbow, with the hood taking the full impact.
It saved her from a potentialy very nasty injury, the hood was very slightly
scratched. Again, you have to search for them to find them.

3 EF 70-210 zoom, the original non USM that looks like a 100-300. Camera had
a fold of my coat under it. When the coat was lifted the camera wqas flicked
onto its prism housing and the lens drummed on the table top. The self tappers
pulled out of the mount lugs and the the leads tore the flex PC board. To fix
was a new main body barrel and PC. $180 oz. Note that this was a very early
EF, and the problem seems to have been fixed now.

~Paul
From: hchong@netcom.com (Hoi Chong)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Seeking advice on solarization.
Date: 1 Sep 92 05:10:45 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest)

From article <19869@drutx.ATT.COM>, by chuck@drutx.ATT.COM (LucianoC):
> Here is a topic I've never seen discussed before. I have attempted this on a 
> number of occasions with limited success. I would like to know what advice
> is out there about producing dramatic solarized images.

Composition-wise or technical-wise?

Composition-wise, once upon a time I had one shot with bare tree branches
with birds on them, very nice.

Technical-wise, I think you can use D-11 for developer, sheet litho film,
and 6x6 enlarger.  From 35mm B&W negative, project the image onto a
6x6 litho film (cut to that size), and then develop into high contrast
positive.  Now "enlarge" the positive onto another 6x6 litho film,
develop half way thru the D-11, and then take the tray (with the D-11
and developing litho film inside) and put it under the no-film-inserted
enlarger and shine the light onto the film.  The rest of the step is
similar.  The resulting litho film should be solarized.

It has been more than 10 years, I might be wrong (chances is more than not).
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: rdb1@cbnewsj.cb.att.com (ronald.j.deblock..jr)
Subject: Re: Inrared Photog + Spider Webs
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 17:43:51 GMT

I believe that the flower patterns in spider webs show up at ultraviolet
and not infrared.  This is from a documentary  I saw on PBS a few months
ago.

Makes sense, if you think about it.  Bees and other insects can see
ultraviolet.

The show also explained that spiders will change the patterns every
few days.  The theory is that some bees get caught and manage to escape
and somehow warn the other bees to stay away.  A new pattern fooled the
bees into thinking it was a different "flower".  Amazing.

Now, where do I buy ultraviolet film?


-- 
Ron DeBlock  rdb1@cbnewsj.att.com  (that's a number 1 in rdb1, not letter l)
AT&T Bell Labs   Somerset, NJ  USA
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: bae@hplsdrn.col.hp.com (Bruce Erickson)
Subject: Re: Problem with screen slides
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 19:02:25 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Logic Systems Operation

In rec.photo (subj: Problem with screen slides), David Masters writes:

> Well, I interpreted a long lens as say 85mm. I have a 28-85 Nikon
> AF that I used on the day. Some of the shots have different focus
> from top to bottom. I couldn't see this when I was setting up for
> each shot. They are in focus in the centre.

Is this because of the curvature of the screen?  If so, I would guess
that going to a higher f-stop would help (increasing the depth of
field).  Increasing exposure times for screen displays is *usually* not
a problem -- the only problem comes in when your exposure is on the 
same order of time as the screen refresh rate....

                  - Bruce Erickson
                     Hewlett Packard
                     bae@col.hp.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: pd@sics.se (Per Danielsson)
Subject: Auto Focu button on Canon EOS cameras (was Re: Photograping Whales)
Organization: Swedish Institute of Computer Science
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 18:52:33 GMT

In article <1992Sep1.130735.27132@jyu.fi> konkkola@jyu.fi (Markku Konkkola) writes:

>In article 92Sep1111103@horus.sics.se, pd@sics.se (Per Danielsson) writes:
>> 
>> With a Canon USM lens you can manually adjust the focus even if the
>> lens is in AF mode. You press the shutter down halfway and if you
>> don't like what the AF thinks should be in focus, you can quickly
>> twist the focusing ring manually and take the picture.
>> 
>> The Canon EOS RT (and perhaps also the EOS 10) can be customized to

>At least EOS 1, 10 and 100 can use this way.

>> use a separate button for initiating AF. This means that you can let
>> the camera set the focus automatically and then leave it at that
>> position for every following shot.

Hate to spoil your day, but you're wrong about the 100.
--
Per Danielsson				pd@sics.se
Swedish Institute of Computer Science, PO Box 1263, S-164 28 KISTA, SWEDEN
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jchen@smdsctt.bellcore.com (C. Jason Chen)
Subject: Re: Rear Curtain Sync on EOS 630
Reply-To: jchen@ctt.bellcore.com
Organization: Bell Communications Research
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 92 19:41:29 GMT

In article <1992Aug31.192409.29919@cbnewsm.cb.att.com>, ka1gt@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (robert.m.atkins) writes:
|> 
|> The second curtain sync feature is not in the 630 manual (or 10s manual) but
|> is a feature of the flash unit. For example with the 430EZ flash you select
|> first or second curtain sync on the 430EZ, not on the camera. Thus the
|> feature is covered in the flash manual, not the camera manual.
|> 

The Glen's list implies that EOS-630 and EOS-1 are different
from other EOS cameras because they don't have the "%" denotation
which says rear curtain sync is only available with EZ300 and EZ430.

That is why I thought EOS 630 has a built-in feature that controls the
strobe timing. 

I guess it is a monor error on the list.

-- 

C. Jason Chen                 
**************E-Mail: jchen@ctt.bellcore.com
**************V-Mail: (908)699-6993
**************P-Mail: 444 Hoes Lane, 1E229, Piscataway, NJ
From: jao@sactoh0.sac.ca.us (James A. Ollinger)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: disposal panoramic
Keywords: wide-view
Date: 29 Aug 92 19:38:44 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Sacramento Public Access Unix, Sacramento, Ca.

In article <rnewell.714933585@sol.UVic.CA> rnewell@sol.UVic.CA (R.COLIN
NEWELL) writes:
>Threw away a few dollars to try out the popular disposible
>panoramic camera by KODAK.
>
>It is no Linhof Technorama but the lens is very sharp for the
>price.
>
>Any other opinions on this or any other ultra-wide systems?
>(wide-angle lenses not included) I was curious about the
>Widelux and other such arrangements.
 
I wasn't too impressed with the Kodak throw-away panorama.  If you open it
up, you notice it takes a standard 35mm frame and masks off the top and
bottom quarter of the frame.  Then Kodalux prints the picture on an 8x10
and cuts off the unused part (this isn't exactly what happens, but you get
the picture).  You can get the same effect from *any* camera by masking
off a substantial strip of your enlargement.  Take a panorama shot with
*any* camera and print it on a 4x10 sheet of paper, and you'll get the
"panorama" effect.
 
A Widelux takes a photograph that has something like a 150-degree sweep on
it, instead of 60 or 70 degrees (a regular wide angle lens).  That's a
true panorama camera.
-- 
    London   *   Paris   *   Forience   *   Rome   *   Sacramento
                          KNIGHTS, Inc.
                JAO@SACTOH0.SAC.CA.US, District Knight
      Maidens Rescued  *  Dragons Slain  *  Feasts Devoured
From: minh@bach.esl.com (Minh Huynh)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Canon A-1 Lens Recommendation
Date: 25 Aug 92 21:14:52 GMT
Organization: ESL Inc., Sunnyvale, CA
Originator: minh@bach


I recently traded my Canon A-1 for a Nikon 6006, - losing
some functionality but gaining a few features in the
process.  I had a Tokina 70-210 with a Canon FD mount
which exhibited horrific pin-cushion distortion at 210mm.
Then again, with the A-1, I could hardly afford the Canon
antique FD lenses.

Check the distortion, and don't buy Tokina.




Thank You Thighmaster,

    M
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: axman@acadia.Kodak.COM (Mike Axman)
Subject: Re: Photo-CD - THE FACTS
Organization: Eastman Kodak Co., Rochester, NY
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 92 17:03:48 GMT

In article <257@metran.UUCP>, jay@metran.UUCP (Jay Ts) writes:

>That's great -- like I said, Photo CD has some real potential -- but I still
>want high resolution!
>

And you're not the only one.  Current Photo CD plans are to extend the format
to include 4kx6k, 8kx12k, and 16kx24k resolutions, and the there is nothing 
that precludes even higher resolution if the industry demands it in the 
years to come.  

Future systems will also have the capability to optically zoom on an 
arbitrary region of the image, and map a "cropped portion" of the image 
into a given number of pixels (in the heirarchy 16BASE, 64BASE, 256BASE,
1024BASE).

There is no question that the current Photo CD PIW transfer system was 
designed for amateur photofinishing applications, but the "format" of the 
Photo CD is not so restricted, and more professional (higher resolution, etc..)
embodiments are in the works.

People need to keep in mind that there's nothing "magical" about "digital".
If you want to "fix up, play with, enhance, display, etc..." your images 
in electronic mediums, it makes a lot of sense.
If you just want to "develop/print", then it's an awful lot of data to lugg
around for this purpose.


Jay Ts

-- 
Mike Axman  
CD-Imaging Advanced Development
Eastman Kodak Company
axman@acadia.kodak.com



DISCLAIMER:
Kodak gives me this Net access for free, but they aren't responsible for my postings.
From: robert@sys.sweden.dg.com (Robert Claeson)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: polycarbonate camera bodies
Date: 27 Aug 92 17:14:31 GMT
Organization: Data General AB, Akalla, Sweden

In article <7825@public.BTR.COM>, rah@public.BTR.COM (Richard A Hyde  rah@btr.com) writes:

> Well, I've seen a lot of theoretical discussion...
> 
> Let's see what the combined readership of the net can do....  :-)
> 
> Has anyone ever dropped their polycarbonate camera?  How far?  On to what?
> 
> and, of course,..  *what happened* !?

I've dropped my polycarbonate camera from about 1.6 meters (eye-level;
I'm 1.7 long). The ground was a hard cliff. Nothing happened except for
a tiny scratch -- nothing serious. The camera has worked just fine after
that. The pictures are as well-exposed as ever, and they're as sharp as
they used to be.

-- 
------------------------------ END OF MESSAGE ------------------------------
Robert Claeson                Internet: robert@sys.sweden.dg.com
Data General AB                         robert@sys.dg.se
Box 28                             CEO: robert@sys.sweden.dg.com:dg-smtp
S-164 93 KISTA                     Tel: +46 (0)8-92 55 00
Sweden                             Fax: +46 (0)8-751 36 22
Newsgroups: rec.photo