HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: korsberg@kirk (Ed Korsberg)
Subject: Advice about workshop tools
Organization: Allen-Bradley Company, CIS-AA - Ann Arbor MI, USA
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 12:12:25 GMT

I am considering of giving up my half of the garage in order to
build a workshop.  The question I have concerns the temperature cycling
of the tools in a garage.  My house is a bi-level and has provision for
heating, although I never turn it on.  My wife will of course not give up
her parking spot thus I cannot seal off the garage door from frequent 
openings.  Will tools such as a table saw tend to rust more frequently
under this arrangement?  

Will the table saw "behave" or work differently when its cold
(eg 38 degrees F) than warm (90 degrees F) ?
-- 
Ed Korsberg             E-mail: korsberg@aa.ab.com
Allen Bradley Inc.      phone:  313-998-2470
555 Briarwood Circle
Ann Arbor, Mich 48108
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: rdc@world.std.com (Ralph D Clifford)
Subject: Re: Incra jigs
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 13:25:57 GMT

In article <1992Aug27.231931.19033@adobe.com> bennett@adobe.com writes:
>Jeff Ellis writes
>> I have been thinking about getting a incra jig for my router table,
>> has anybody used on of these a lot? 
>
>All the incra-jig does is position a fence in accurate increments of 1/32" from
>some initial setting that you make (by eye in their video). Assuming you
>haven't changed the inital setting, you can move the fence and reposition it
>exactly where it was, for all intents and purposes. Once you reset the jig, 
>however, you lose that ability (it's as good as you can recreate the initial 
>setting).

     Not true.  In most operations, should you need for some reason to move
     jig, you can realign the jig from the work piece by placing the router
     bit back into the last cut made. 
>
>If you need positioning in increments that are not sums of 1/32", like 7/64"
>for instance, the jig won't help.

     True enough.

> If you need a range greater than the jig's 
>range (16" for the big pro model), you're out of luck (with the standard jig, I 
>suppose you could attach multiple jigs end to end to increase this range, but 
>it gets expensive and awkward).

     Not true.  The jig has a capacity of the maximum size of your router
     table, as extended.  You move the jig back and then realign your work to
     the jig by placing the bit in the last cut.

Ralph Clifford
From: obrien@serum.clpd.Kodak.Com (John O'Brien (x37279))
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: need belt sander recomendation
Date: 1 Sep 92 18:43:25 GMT
Article-I.D.: clpd.1992Sep1.184325.5151
Reply-To: obrien@serum.kodak.com
Distribution: usa
Organization: Eastman Kodak Company - Clinical Products Division

In article <920831175524@wraith.netops.contel.com>, powell@wraith.netops.contel.com (Mike Powell "GTE FSD Net Mgr") writes:
|> I am faced with having to sand several boards, that are bonded together,
|> flat on one side.
|> Not wanting to enjoy this task too much by hand sanding, it looks like
|> a belt sander is my best option. Only one problem, I don't have one. 
|> 
|> Next issue, intended duty: medium to heavy. say a belt 3 or 4 inches
|> wide.
|> What to buy? at last check Makita and Porter Cable were playing leap
|> frog with thier respective products.
|> I am not to keen on buying Sears Power tools anymore, sooooo, the answer
|> is ??????
|> Suggestions are welcome.
|> Mike
|> --
|> Mike Powell PPASEL
|> "It's hard to find router bits for your cisco"
|> Disclaimer: I speak for myself. No direct relation to the DUAT folks.
|> internet: powell@wraith.netops.contel.com  Usenet: uunet!contel-fss!powell

I checked around before buying my belt sander and found out that the
makita is the best for belt tracking. I used to own a sears and was
well aware of what belt tracking problems meant. I purchased the
makita 3" X 24" and am very pleased with the tracking. The only issue
that I have is that it is quite heavy and if I don't releave it's
weight when using it will leave an uneven surface. At least that is
what I found when using it. maybe it's my method though! Would be
interested to hear from other users of the makita to find out if they
also have wood eating problems.

John O'Brien
Xref: sparky rec.woodworking:5809 rec.autos.tech:11748
From: ron@pilot.njin.net (Ron Natalie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Air Compressor Wisdom
Keywords: compressor condensation tank weakness
Date: 26 Aug 92 14:56:11 GMT
Followup-To: rec.woodworking
Distribution: na
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

> Secondary issue is the unloader (pressure release so
> the compressor motor doesn't have to start against full back pressure).

So that's what that that things called!  I always referred to it as
the sneeze valve (it's the thing that sneezes when the compressor
stops).

-Ron
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: rdc@world.std.com (Ralph D Clifford)
Subject: Another wiring question
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 22:24:24 GMT

     I have an electrical problem with my new shop that I am not sure how to
handle safely.  If any of our wiring gurus could give me advice, I would
appreciate it.  I have experience doing wiring for 110 & 220 AC circuits, but
my experience is in the theater.  Although I'm sure that every fire marshall
would disagree with me, the NEC does not get used in the theater.

     What I am trying to do is to share a 220 outlet with our dryer.  The
following criteria apply:

     1.  The dryer and the workshop will not be operated at the same time.

     2.  Plugging the dryer in and out each time I use the workshop is not an
acceptable solution.

     3.  I can only make temporary changes since I rent my house.  Rewriring a
fuse box is not possible, therefore.

     4.  The workshop will have its own circuit breakers.  What I would like to
have in the workshop is one 15 amp 220 volt circuit and two 15 amp 110 volt
circuits.  The lighting would not be on these circuits.

     5.  The solution should be cheap so that I can spend my money on tools :).

     One solution that I have thought of is to make a Y cord.  This cord would
have a male 30 amp, 220 volt plug at the bottom of the Y and would have one
female 30 amp, 220 volt plug on one branch of the Y for the dryer and would be
wired directly into my workshop circuit box on the other.  I would use 10
gauge wire to make the Y.  Is my solution safe?  If not, or if there is a
better way to do it, I would appreciate your input.

     Thanks in advance.

Ralph Clifford
rdc@world.std.com

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: landers@adam.dseg.ti.com (Dave Landers)
Subject: Re: CAREFUL WITH THAT PROPELLER!!!!
Reply-To: landers@wilma.dseg.ti.com
Organization: Texas Instruments Inc
Distribution: world, na, usa
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 18:02:29 GMT

In article <1992Aug28.135519.46693@evolving.com>, mmf@evolving.com (Mark Frazier) 
writes:

|> 
|> Actually, this is almost the same as making a LARGE subbase for your router,
|> which is what I did. THis allows you to get a larger surface area riding
|> on top the workpiece, and it becomes easy to control router and keep it
|> balanced. I didn't mention it specifically because it seemed rather obvious.
|> But it's becoming quite clear that you aren't allowed to leave out any details
|> on the net, lest ye be pounced upon.

Before anyone pounces upon Mark, I'll go ahead and mention that an offset base 
(i.e. large on the workpiece side, but 'normal' on the other) is another obvious 
variation that doesn't need to be mentioned.  A knob or handle on the large end 
is another detail that I won't even bother to think about.


	---------------------------------------------------------
	Dave Landers			landers@wilma.dseg.ti.com
	---------------------------------------------------------
	Opinions expressed here are my own.
	Words typed here are likely to be misspelled.
--->	Humor expressed here may not be smiley-faced.
	Facts offered here may not be factual.
	Any truth here is purely coincidental.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: obrien@serum.clpd.Kodak.Com (John O'Brien (x37279))
Subject: Re: Polyurethane advice for hot dry climate?
Reply-To: obrien@serum.kodak.com
Organization: Eastman Kodak Company - Clinical Products Division
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 11:45:22 GMT

Paul,
You along with many others have had all kinds of problems using these
new water based finishes. I personally don't think the manufacturers
have ironed out all the bugs with this stuff yet because all you hear
is complaints about mostly bubbles. In this case, the pros dont
outweigh the cons and I would recommend using the tried and true
method of applying solvent based finish products until we start
hearing good reports about water based finishes.

John O'Brien
From: howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Incra or Leigh?
Date: 2 Sep 92 22:35:56 GMT
Distribution: na, world
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division

In article <1992Sep2.213402.16420@organpipe.uug.arizona.edu> tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin) writes:
>...
>What is it that the Incra Jig really does?   Would I be correct in saying that
>it allows the user to position a fence at 1/32 in increments, with excellent
>repeatability and good linear accuracy?
yes
>Could one get the same effect with
>a length of high quality 32 tpi threaded rod, a half nut, some maple boards,
>and the book?
Some have done this but turning that crank can be a drag.

>Does the thing have templates that the jig slides over/under/through,   sort
>of like a Crafstamn template?   
no
>Or do you align a mark on the jig with a mark on the template?   
Yes this can be a source of error, you can position incorrectly if you
set the jig to the wrong mark.  

>Once set up, do you have to think?
It can be nearly but not quite mindless but you need to be a bit
careful to hit the mark when positioning.

-- 
Howard Rebel hpcsos.col.hp.com 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: holtt@OCE.ORST.EDU (Tim Holt)
Subject: My name is Tim, and I am a molding nerd...
Organization: College of Oceanography, Oregon State Univ
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 20:01:01 GMT

Hi...
A side note from the general hubub of this group as to what's the best
sander/jig/saw/etc.


Last night, I was trying to explain to my wife the details of how you make 
some kinds of molding using antique planes (specifically, hollows and
rounds), when she told me, in no uncertain terms, that I was a "molding
nerd".  My responce was something like, "uh... so?"  But it got me
thinking and I wonder how many other "molding nerds" there are out
there.  

I'd like to also admit that as well as being a molding nerd, I am also a
wood scavenger and can't BEGIN to think of painting a nice piece of wood
and covering up it's pretty grain patterns.  I find myself going to
estate sales looking for antique tools (planes and chisels mostly) and
old wood.  Why, just last month, I found a 14' 1x12 clear grain doug fir 
board that had been used as a shelf -- got it for $7.50 and it's something 
like $4.50 lf brand new.  I had to tell EVERYBODY about that.  Lucky for
me (and my wife) the baby will listen to anything I say.  And can you 
imagine painting a board like that? Ack!  No way! 

I sign myself, Tim (Molding Nerd) Holt

Uppity Molding Nerds rise up and show your baseboards!
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Fences & Hold-Downs
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 92 21:50:35 GMT

Does anyone out there know how much a board foot of pressure treated
pine weighs? I need exact enough information to be able to calculate
how much lumber I can get in a 1,200 pound truck load.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | "Zero Defects": The result of shutting down a
                    |    production line.
                    |         Kelvin Throop - The Management Dictionary
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: rcbi27@muvms3.bitnet (DBRUM)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: water-based varnish
Date: 26 Aug 92 17:40:17 GMT
Organization: Marshall University

In article <92238.121330XID@psuvm.psu.edu>, XID@psuvm.psu.edu writes: 
> By the way, if it were really "opaque," you couldn't see the wood at all.
> 
> Dave Glick   xid@psuvm.psu.edu        Penn State

Yeah, I guess you're right, I probably should have said "kind of opaque" 
or "real filmy" or something. But I was really appalled at the non-clarity.
I mean the stuff was like carmel candy, as opposed to the honey or amber
quality of ordinary varnish. It's true that you'd be crazy to try and apply
it as thickly to a woodworking project as I did to the pane of glass (it
would take fifty coats!), but still it gives a good indication of the
actual clarity of the substance when dry.

I don't think there was anything wrong with the can of varnish itself. It
was milky white in liquid form and viscous and easy to stir. The remnants
I have put to use coating the end grain of green wood that I am seasoning.
It works excellent for this purpose. :-)

--danny
-- 
	"Were his solid black square paintings really,
	as the artist claimed, simply neutral, abstract
	compositions devoid of external references and
	meanings?" ***********************************
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jims@bnr.ca (Jim Spallin)
Subject: Re: CAREFUL WITH THAT PROPELLER!!!!
Reply-To: 1596118@x400gate.bnr.ca
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd., Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Distribution: world, na, usa
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 92 15:09:53 GMT

In article <1992Aug27.050756.27168@organpipe.uug.arizona.edu>, tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin) writes:
|> 
|> Three is a new (?) product out called the "vertical panel raising" router bit.
|> Instead of being 3.5 inches in dia,  it is 1.75 inches long and .75 in dia.
|> Obviously the surface velocity at the outer edges is much less for this bit.
|> With the big bit you run the router over the panel vertically, at a 90 deg
|> angle to the face of the panel.  With the "vertical panel raising" bit, 
|> you set the router up in a jig horizonatally, and run the panel under the bit.
|> The axis of the bit is parallel to the face of the panel. You get the 
|> same profile.   
|> 
|> Just proves that there is more than one way to rout a cat !!!

As long as that cat has a straight back.  The one limitation of the vertical
bits is that they don't do curves.  While the vertical bits sound
safer, you'd want to be able to tilt the router to 90 degrees to the
table surface or have a high fence.  I think you might be asking for trouble
by using a 3 inch high fence on a larger panel.  But then again, you 
might just like the adrenaline rush when the router catches too much 
wood and sends it sailing within inches of your head.  :-)

-- 
Jim Spallin, (613)765-2581
Opinions expressed are my own, although others are free to share them
From: schefter@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (Tim Schefter)
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 15:13:59 GMT
Subject: Re: Morten Mortise and Tenon Jig
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking



      I have a Morten jig-- have used it to build several pieces of 
   furniture.  It seems well made; comes with reasonable instructions
   and seems to work well.  Setup time is fast.  Have made single and
   double joints with it.  The tenons are only about 1" long.  It was
   invented by a man named Dean Martin here in Loveland Co, he sold it
   to Porter Cable several years ago.
From: de@moscom.UUCP (David Esan)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Shop Floors (again?)
Date: 26 Aug 92 12:47:13 GMT
Reply-To: de@moscom.UUCP (David Esan)
Organization: Moscom Corp., Pittsford, NY

In article <92237.133641DRF6@psuvm.psu.edu> DRF6@psuvm.psu.edu writes:
>   I recently had a home built and about the only problem I have had is
>with the basement (my shop) floor. 
>   The concrete contracter admits the floor isn't flat anymore and isn't
>willing to replace the entire floor. 
>   I tried to get him to just pour a one inch or so cap on the floor, but
>since that translates into 5 cubic yards of concrete he is reluctant to do that
>either.

Let me recap in other words here.

The concrete contractor poured your floor a short time ago, and it is no
longer acceptable.  You state that the fault is in the fact that the gravel
supporting the floor was not compressed properly.

- Who compressed the gravel?  They are liable.
- Who poured the concrete over the poorly compressed gravel?  They are liable.

I dislike lawsuits as much as the next guy, but they have a place in our
society.  Mostly to force people who will not own up to their errors (because
it will cost them money) to fix what they did wrong.

Why go to all the trouble and expense of a wood floor, when the contractor
should fix it?  Get a lawyer.  Chances are that he will settle before he
goes to court.  Get an engineer to inspect his work, to make sure that he
hasn't taken shortcuts in his repairs.




-- 
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 -->     David Esan      de@moscom.com  
 
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: armstrng@cs.dal.ca (Stan Armstrong)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Stock Preparation Question
Date: 27 Aug 92 01:55:15 GMT
Organization: Math, Stats & CS, Dalhousie University, Halifax, NS, Canada

In article <1992Aug26.160722.2164@sctc.com> crogers@sctc.com (Clyde Rogers) writes:
>
>Does anybody know of a method of stock preparation that does not 
>require either:
>- skill with a jointer plane (or am I overestimating the difficulty
>  of stock preparation with a plane?), or
>- both a jointer and planer
>
This was my problem exactly. I solved it very nicely with a jig described
about two years ago in FWW. They call it a router-planer. It is two aluminum
2x4 box beams connected in parallel by threaded rods to form a huge vise.
Your router sits on a flat carriage on top. Using a mortising bit, you 
put a flat surface on one side of the board. Then you turn the board over
and support it on wooden cams inside the vise, which allow you to plane
the second side to a precise parallel thickness.

It works beautifully. It will handle boards up to 12 inches wide. It takes
me about 10 minutes to do an eight foot board, both sides.

I use my RAS for jointing, but you could use this jig easily on narrow
boards and with some adaptation on wide boards, or you could joint with
a router table, or with a flush trim bit and a straight edge.

Stan
-- 
Stan Armstrong. Religious Studies Dept, Saint Mary's University, Halifax, N.S.
Armstrong@husky1.stmarys.ca | att!clyde!watmath!water!dalcs!armstrng
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: apoyner@as.arizona.edu (Tony Poyner)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Polyurethane advice for hot dry climate?
Date: 4 Sep 92 17:19:35 GMT
Reply-To: apoyner@as.arizona.edu
Organization: MMT Observatory, Univ.of Arizona

Yes, I believe that applying water-based poly in a hot, dry climate is a
problem.  Anyway, I had EXACTLY the same experiences as you, down here in
Tucson.  I threw away the rest of the can...

I now use General Finishes wipe-on, which is a mixture of oil and poly.  It 
is a 2-part process - Sealacell as a first coat and Arm-a-seal or Royal
Finish as a second, third, etc., coat (depending if you want gloss or satin).
I like the satin (Royal Finish).  It is very easy to apply, and gives a thin
coat which to me is less plastic looking than straight poly.

Woodworker's Store stocks it, but I bought direct from General Finishes 
when they had a special offer going.

---
Tony Poyner                               apoyner@as.arizona.edu
Multiple Mirror Telescope Observatory     Tel   (602) 621-5185
Univ. of Arizona, Tucson, AZ 85721        Fax   (602) 670-5740
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 31 Aug 1992 16:24:00 EDT
From:         Gary Hutchison <GHK@NCCIBM1.BITNET>
Subject:      Book Case plywood cuts

========================================================================

In article <1992Aug24.224132.16593@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com> billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com
(bill nelson) writes:
>jhp@sactoh0.sac.ca.us (Jim H. Puga) writes:
>: I've started my bookcase project and have a question.  I cut my
>: pieces a little bigger than needed and figured I would straighten
>: out the edges by some other means(I didn't want to try and do
>: exact cuts on the table saw).
>:
>: I tried routing the wood(it is plywood) and I soon noticed that
>: this isn't a very good idea.  Aside from buying a joiner, is
>: there another way to "straighten" out the edges?  Is there a
>
>Bill


  I just completed a cabinet project which consisted of 3/4 red oak
faced plywood.  I made all of my finished cuts with my tablesaw.
However, very few of the finished cuts actually show.  The book
shelf is roughly 48"x72"x15" and has solid oak facing.  I also
cut edge grain oak veneer to face the front of movable shelves,
which are also cut from 3/4 oak plywood.  All of my joint cuts
(T&G and dados) were cut with a router - at times fitted with a
fence or cutting along a straight edge.  The manufacturing ideas
came from a WOOD magazine several months ago which had a large
bookcase project as it cover story.

      Gary Hutchison
      UNISYS Corp.
      RTP, NC
From: abbott@priory.enet.dec.com (Robert Abbott)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Smoothing edges from a table saw cut(HOW?)
Date: 1 Sep 92 16:15:52 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: TP Performance


In article <1992Aug24.224132.16593@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com>, billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson) writes...
>jhp@sactoh0.sac.ca.us (Jim H. Puga) writes:
>: I've started my bookcase project and have a question.  I cut my
>: pieces a little bigger than needed and figured I would straighten
>: out the edges by some other means(I didn't want to try and do
>: exact cuts on the table saw).
>: 
>: I tried routing the wood(it is plywood) and I soon noticed that 
>: this isn't a very good idea.  Aside from buying a joiner, is
>: there another way to "straighten" out the edges?  Is there a
>: special router bit that can do it?  I could plane it but that
>: seems like it would take too long.
> 
>A jointer is the easiest method. If you make a good cut on your
>saw, it would only take a short time to smooth the edge with a
>hand plane. You should not have to "straighten" the edge - if you
>do, then your table saw is not set up right.
> 
>If you have a table for your router, it is possible to use it to
>edge joint your work piece. It is not nearly as easy as with a
>jointer.
> 
>Bill

Remember that he is working with plywood !!
You should be able to make exact cuts on your table saw. This
is especially important when working with plywood since you 
can not use a plane or router to finish the edge. 

Running plywood through a jointer is a bad idea. It's a great way
to dull your blades. I would expect problems with splintering as
well, just like when you try to use the router.


------------------------
Robert K. Abbott
abbott@tay1.dec.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: tatem@tralfamadore.csc.ti.com (Joe Tatem)
Subject: Re: Water and Wood: A beginner's question
Summary: Rip sawn?
Organization: Texas Instruments
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 16:42:19 GMT


While we're at it, can anyone described rip-sawn lumber?

					Joe Tatem
					tatem@csc.ti.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking