HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: pistien@imag.imag.fr (yannick pistien)
Subject: Re: *** About Karman Ghia Type 14 or 34
Keywords: Karman Ghia, vw
Organization: Institut Imag, Grenoble, France
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 08:35:03 GMT

In article <1jg1gkINN2t2@shelley.u.washington.edu>, dali@stein.u.washington.edu (David A. Lee) writes:
|> In article <1993Jan18.125701.26433@imag.fr> pistien@imag.imag.fr (yannick pistien) writes:
|> >
|> Are you talking about a Type III Ghia?  Very few were produced, and 
|> they were never imported to the United States.  I saw one at a VW
|> show for US$3000 in very good shape.  The motor in these is the same
|> as the Type III.
|> 
|> I am not clear on your designation of Type 34 and 14...
|> 
Two types of Karmann Ghia have been made  : 

	- A type 14, the old one and most appreciated, who was build with a 
	'TYPE I' mecanic (i suppose)
	- A type 34, more recent ('70), who was build with a 'Type III' mecanic

My question was : Are the names TYPE I and TYPE III generic one's for the
mecanic designation (ie: Are Type I Cox and Type I Karman Ghia the same mecanic
ones (motor, ...)

-- 

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  | Yannick Pistien 			Adresse : IRIMAG/LIFIA   	      |
  |				 /\		  46 Avenue Felix Viallet     |
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  |     pistien@lifia.imag.fr   					      |
  |                                     Bureau  : 102B                        |
  | Work : +(33) 76 57 46 51            Fax  : +(33) 76 57 46 02              |
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-- 

  |---------------------------------------------------------------------------|
  | Yannick Pistien 			Adresse : IRIMAG/LIFIA   	      |
  |				 /\		  46 Avenue Felix Viallet     |
  |                             /  \/\  /\        38031 Grenoble Cedex        |
  | e-mail :                   /      \/  \       France                      |
  |     pistien@lifia.imag.fr   					      |
  |                                     Bureau  : 102B                        |
  | Work : +(33) 76 57 46 51            Fax  : +(33) 76 57 46 02              |
  |---------------------------------------------------------------------------|



Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: finnegan@invader.NoSubdomain.NoDomain (Kenneth Finnegan)
Subject: Re: Weird behavior on 85 Jetta
Reply-To: finnegan@navo.navy.mil
Organization: Grumman Data Systems	
Nntp-Posting-Host-[nntpd-13102]: invader.navo.navy.mil
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 16:34:17 GMT

In article <sgupta.727717772@pint.ecn.purdue.edu>, sgupta@pint.ecn.purdue.edu (Sameer Gupta) writes:
|> 
|> I noticed something very weird and want to see if someone can give me an
|> explanation as to what happened.  The car is a straight 8 valve jetta with
|> a 5 spd if it makes any difference.
|> ..to get some gas, which also gave the engine a chance to
|> cool down a bit.  I cannot figure out why the temp started to rise.  It had
|> been steady for the past 5 hours and 45 minutes.  Could it be due to low gas ?
|> Also, I heard a slight humming sound coming from the rear.  I am pretty sure
|> that it was the fuel pump.  Is it going bad or is it normal to be able to hear
|> it after it has been driven straight for about 6 hours ?

It sounds as if your fuel transfer pump is going.  When mine was failing,
indicated by a loud humming followed by the car bucking from lack of
fuel, I also had strange reading on my water temp guage.  Interestingly
enough, my MFA oil temp never varied accordingly, indicating to me
that the problem was with the gauge, and the car was not, in fact,
running hot.

The transfer pump is actually a recall item on your car.  Get your dealer
to run your VIN to see if it has already been done.  Even if you end up
having to do it yourself, it's only about $25 and it's a piece of cake to 
replace.

Good luck,

Kenneth
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Dasher
Date: 28 Jan 93 13:23:07 GMT
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.

In article <1993Jan27.221726.17761@newsgate.sps.mot.com>, wolfson@regatta.sps.mot.com (Stephen Wolfson) writes:
>Saw someone selling a '79 Dasher, I remember the name not 
>much about the car...  Was it anything more than a rabbit with a different
>skin?
>

It was the VW version of the Audi Fox. The main difference was the
dasher came in two styles - fastback and wagon, whereas the Audi
was a sedan and wagon.

Early ones had carbureated engines. THe carbs were trash....but
can be replaced with one of those progressive webber 2 barrel
kits. The FI motors are ok. Basically the engine is Rabbit, but
the transaxle and engine are mounted longitudinally.

I could almost swear that the current VW Fox is a stripped down
Audi Fox.

Ric
From: tgpt_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Tom Guptill)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Three wheelin' Fool..
Date: 26 Jan 93 00:45:52 GMT
Organization: University of Rochester - Rochester, New York

In <25JAN199316320988@zeus.tamu.edu> jmm2948@zeus.tamu.edu (Jeffrey M. Mayzurk) writes:

>fine German (maybe Italian) marque, and not one of those rice-burners that

	Sorry for the pointless digression, but when I hear the phrase
'Italian automobile' the first thing that springs to mind is the Fiat
Strada.  Is there something I'm missing?  (Have you ever tried to get
parts for a Fiat Strada?  I couldn't even find a mechanic who would
*touch* mine!)
				Tom
-- 
| Tom Guptill           | tgpt_ltd@cc.rochester.edu (internet) |
| CPU Box 277445 U of R | tgpt_ltd@uordbv (bitnet)             |
| Rochester NY 14627    |                                      |
| (716) 274-0156        |                                      |
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: Re: [W] Need advice on water guage
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1993 02:03:36 GMT

In article <1k9f10INNrm8@shelley.u.washington.edu>, bacs1@hardy.u.washington.edu (Kevin Harper) writes:
>I just bought an 87 Scirocco 16V, and haven't received the owner's
>guide or Bentley manual from the previous owner yet. (big mistake--get 
>everything before you write the check!).
>
>I'm ignoring the cold start problem for now :-), but a new problem
>just cropped up.
>
>The idiot light periodically starts flashing on the water temperature
>guage, and because I don't have the owner's guide, I'm not sure what
>it means.  I'm assuming that it's the coolant overflow-tank level
>sensor and that the light being on means that the coolant level is low.  
>Is this correct?  It's gone on before the engine has even come up to
>full temperature, so it doesn't appear  to be related to high coolant
>temperature.  Based on these assumptions, I'm concluding that the 
>switch is faulty, since I don't think I'm loosing coolant.  Am I right?
>Are these switches known for failing?
>
The light will flash on/off for the first few seconds after you
start the car to let you know the light functions. You may
want to check your connections at the overflow tank to make sure
that is functioning properly. The gauge should sit near the middle
or slightly on the high side of middle when at proper operating
temp.

Ric




>While on the topic, where should the water temperature guage be when
>the engine is fulling warmed?  Are these guages consistent between
>cars, or do you have to get a baseline specific for the particular car?
>
>Thanks in advance.
From: tacchi@ccu.umanitoba.ca (Mark G. Tacchi)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: What alternative heat sources are there?(flat4)
Date: 28 Jan 93 06:04:53 GMT
Organization: University of Manitoba, Winnipeg, Canada

In <1993Jan26.203605.10589@ac.dal.ca> rwinham@ac.dal.ca writes:

>Well, Travis, count yourself lucky...at least you can use the exhaust heat
>if you hafta. I am the frostbitten owner of a '72 Van (the first year for
>the 1700 engine). Even if I had the $400 to replace the rusted out heater
>boxes, I hear it's still dubious that I'd be getting much heat up front.

I tried running my '58 bus in the cold.  Only made it to early December.
(Winnipeg winters are real cold. Not bad tonite though maybe -18C)

>Needless to say, I've been asking the same question as you. As far as I
>know, the only really feasible solution is electric heat. The only models
>on the market up here are a 600 BTU (that means British Thermal Unit, and
>noone seems to be able to tell me any more than that) model that plugs into
>the cigarette lighter and isn't worth a damn, and a 1200 btu fan-forced 
>model that I'm considering. It costs $120 Cdn. and is called "Back Seat
>Heat" - it's probably available thru auto parts places down there. The only
>problem is, it sucks 25 amps from your electrical system when it's running...
>about half the total output of your alternator! Anyway, that's all I can
>tell you - if you or anyone out there can dig up a better answer please
>let me know.

Yeah, that electric heat sure puts a load on that generator.  I feel
uncomfortable doing that.

Ok.  We have heat being drawn from 1 and 3 exhaust.  And if everything is in
tip top shape and you have rigged up a fan/blower system, you should be cozy
until about -5C to -10C.  This is assuming that the air is bypassed before it
goes through the heater channels.  These babies sure work well as heat
dissipaters.

Now, is there any way that two more heat exchangers can be made to accomodate
numbers 2 and 4?  I haven't really given it a good look, but suspect that
something could be put together.  Probably be pretty tight though.  And there
may be a lot of extra tubing needed.

Anybody have any ideas on how to do this?

-Mark


-- 
Mark G. Tacchi                                    tacchi@next01.cc.umanitoba.ca
  Unix Support Group                                        (NeXT Mail Welcome)
  University of Manitoba Computer Services
 "My opinions are my own, and do not necessarily reflect those of my employer."
From: agaidos@pcbcad.next.com (Anton Gaidos)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: RE:87 GTI with no power
Date: 26 Jan 93 19:50:38 GMT

If your car is a 1.8 16V they are not known for thier bottom end
although yours sounds weaker then my wife's '88. Hers is a screem!


-- NewsGrazer, a NeXTstep(tm) news reader, posting --
M>UQR=&8P7&%N<VE[7&9O;G1T8FQ<9C!<9FUO9&5R;B!#;W5R:65R.WT*7&UA
M<F=L,3(P"EQM87)G<C$R,`I<<&%R9%QT>#$Q-3)<='@R,S`T7'1X,S0U-EQT
M>#0V,#A<='@U-S8P7'1X-CDQ,EQT>#@P-C1<='@Y,C$V7'1X,3`S-CA<='@Q
M,34R,%QF,%QB,%QI,%QU;&YO;F5<9G,R-%QF8S!<8V8P($EF('EO=7(@8V%R
M(&ES(&$@,2XX(#$V5B!T:&5Y(&%R92!N;W0@:VYO=VX@9F]R('1H:65R(&)O
M='1O;2!E;F1<"F%L=&AO=6=H('EO=7)S('-O=6YD<R!W96%K97(@=&AE;B!M
D>2!W:69E)W,@)S@X+B!(97)S(&ES(&$@<V-R965M(5P*"GT*
`
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: sircomp@bcarh289.bnr.ca (Brian Magee)
Subject: Re: What alternative heat sources are there?
Keywords: heat, VW
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 93 00:05:29 GMT

In article <C1GyCv.DsM@inews.Intel.COM> sjohnson@frx193.intel.com (Steve Johnson - IMD ~) writes:
>In article <1993Jan25.161738.63177@cc.usu.edu> you write:
>>
>>I would like heat in my bug, but would like to do away with the problems
>>associated with exhaust heated air.  (ie, leaking exhaust, yucky smell
>>with dirty fan, etc...)
>>
>>So, my question is:  Is there any alternative heat sources?  What and where?
>>
>>--
>>Travis Carter
>
>The best solution, by far, for a bug is to just buy a new set of heat exchangers
>and make sure the engine compartment is correctly sealed and the controls for
>the heater are properly adjusted.  The initial investment seems prohibative,
>but I've heard and seen time and time again on this newsgroup of people who
>wished they had decided to do this earlier and are kicking themselves for
>it.
>
>The VW bug heater system works great.  You just have to maintain them.  These
>bugs/buses are cars that are 10 - 20 -30 years old.  How many other cars are 
>on the road that long?  
>
>The cheapest way is to just fix the existing heating system and don't expect
>the parts to last forever!
>
>There, now I will step down off my soap box. ;)
>

If this is true, it's great news! I've been freezing to death in my
Bug for 5 years wondering how I could hook up an electric heater of
some-sort :-)  Does anyone know the cost for 2 new heat-exchangers?
And will it really produce enough to warm my car when it's -30C 
outside? Do I have to replace just the exchangers, or should I also
replace the heater-channel (well, not REPLACE them.. that would cost more 
than the car did! But run some heater-tubing inside of it?) 
Now if only my rear-window defroster worked...

>Steven
>-- 
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Steven Johnson (IMD)                        M/S FM2-60
>sjohnson@pcocd2.intel.com                   1900 Prairie City Road
>(916)356-5540                               Folsom, CA 95630

later...
			Rob



--
---
"We are sorry, the .sig you have reached is no longer in service"
From: bill@tss.com (Bill Castellano)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: VW GTI hubcaps.
Date: 28 Jan 93 17:51:05 GMT
Organization: Teknekron Software Systems, Inc.

In article <1juv20INN6n3@aludra.usc.edu> mferdows@aludra.usc.edu (Mehrzad Ferdows) writes:
>
>	Some jerk ripped off one of my '92 GTI 16v hubcaps a while ago
>(the BBS ones), and I've been looking around everywhere for a new one with
>no luck. The dealer wants $60 for ONE hubcap (screw that!).
>
>	Anyone have any ideas as to where I can look? (anyone selling one?)
>thanx.

there's a guy down the street that i don't like that much... he has a 16v, and
for $20 or so, i'd consider.....

only kidding. mine cost $63 for the 88 16v.  Bummer.


-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
bill castellano / teknekron software systems / elan / gti 16v /bill@tss.com
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
me                us                           fast   slower   slowest
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: finnegan@invader.NoSubdomain.NoDomain (Kenneth Finnegan)
Subject: Re: Weird behavior on 85 Jetta
Nntp-Posting-Host-[nntpd-9608]: invader.navo.navy.mil
Reply-To: finnegan@navo.navy.mil
Organization: Grumman Data Systems	
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 15:40:55 GMT

In article <1993Jan23.215436.9823@cs.mun.ca>, michael9@nadine.cs.mun.ca (Michael Sullivan) writes:
|> finnegan@invader.NoSubdomain.NoDomain (Kenneth Finnegan) writes:
|> 
|> >In article <sgupta.727717772@pint.ecn.purdue.edu>, sgupta@pint.ecn.purdue.edu (Sameer Gupta) writes:
|> >|> 
|> >|> I noticed something very weird and want to see if someone can give me an
|> >|> explanation as to what happened.  The car is a straight 8 valve jetta with
|> >|> a 5 spd if it makes any difference.
|> >|> ..to get some gas, which also gave the engine a chance to
|> >|> cool down a bit.  I cannot figure out why the temp started to rise.  It had
|> >|> been steady for the past 5 hours and 45 minutes.  Could it be due to low gas ?
|> >|> Also, I heard a slight humming sound coming from the rear.  I am pretty sure
|> >|> that it was the fuel pump.  Is it going bad or is it normal to be able to hear
|> >|> it after it has been driven straight for about 6 hours ?
|> 
|> >It sounds as if your fuel transfer pump is going.  When mine was failing,
|> >Kenneth
|> 
|>   Sorry!!  It is perfectly normal for the water tempture to rise after heavy

I think you missed the just of the discussion.  In our little example, the 
water temp guage acts funny only when the above mentioned problem was occuring.
For example, when I got to the bottom of my exit ramp that I drive every day,
the water temp would remain pretty constant.  However, when I was experiencing
the transfer pump problem, (buzzing, bucking car) the water temp guage would
fritz out. 

|> Think about it.  The only way the engine can cool
|> off is when the water pump is pumping water about the cooling system.  If
|> the car is stopped, the water just sits there, and gets hotter and hotter.

Nope.  If the car is stopped with the engine running, the pump is still
pumping.  The only thing you lose is air flow over the radiator.  And
to take care of this, your car is eqipped with an electric fan.  Those
crazy Germans! ;-)

If the car is turned off, the temp guage WILL read higher if it is
turned back on shortly, but the electric fan should run even when
the car is off to assist in cooling the motor.

Kenneth


Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: kpjone01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu
Subject: Re: 'sport' shocks/springs for Golf GTi
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 14:54:20 GMT
Organization: University of Louisville

In article <19930122.070528.401@almaden.ibm.com>, felix@vnet.ibm.com (Felix Klauser) writes:
> Does anyone have any recommendations on a 'sport' shock/spring set for an
> 86 Golf GTi 8V?  I'm looking to upgrade the handling and response of the
> car without jarring all of my teeth loose.  Any comments or experiences
> with such brands as Koni, Bilstein, Boge, Sachs, Eibach, Neuspeed and ???
> are welcome.
> 
> Felix Klauser

My suggestions are as follows:
 
 Tokiko Illumina shocks and Neuspeed springs.
                 OR
 (I think) Sachs Turbo shocks and Neuspeed springs.
 
The Illuminas will cost $$$ but are supposedly worth it and the Sachs are 
inexpensive but are supposed to give a good ride that is not too harsh.
 
I am NOT speaking from experience when I recomment shocks.  I do have the
Neuspeed progressive springs and I love them.   
 
Anyone care to comment?
 
Kevin

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: Mexican Beetles
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 15:19:04 GMT

According to the article in VolksWorld the Mexican Beetles
are manufactured with 1200 cc motors. As far as emissions go
they do have a catalitic converter on them as of 1992 so
Mexico can try to address it's smog problem. However, the
engines are still carbureted, which would seem to me that
the emissions are probably higher than US standards, then
again, it may not be too difficult to adapt a Bosch
K or KE system to a 1200cc motor.

Ric
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: dfulton@tagore.helios.nd.edu (david fulton)
Subject: Re: Off road VW's - some questions
Reply-To: dfulton@handel.helios.nd.edu (Dave Fulton)
Organization: Department of Aerospace & Mechanical Engineering, University of Notre Dame
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 19:54:29 GMT

In article <1993Jan25.230628.29488@Csli.Stanford.EDU>, cower@csli.stanford.edu (Richard Cower) writes:
|> 
|> I'm thinking of picking up one of those tublar frames, adding a bug
|> engine (I have a Super bug with a good engine), bug front-end and
|> some kind of trans-axle. I don't want to race it, just drive it
|> around off-road. I'm very good with VW's, having owned them for over
|> 25 years and always done all my own work. I have some questions:
|> 
|> 1. What are these things called?

	Dune Buggys  - I know this is a general term, but it is what I have
				always heard used.


|> 2. Is the older bus trans-axle, with the reduction gears the one 
|>    normally used in these things? I have a 62 bus with 50k miles on
|>    the original engine/tranny that I could use.

	Unless you go real easy on it, you will break regular beetle 
		transmissions like crazy.  I beat the heck out of 
		my bus trans for several years and had no problems.
	Bus trans' go for at least 3 times the cost of beetle trans'
		for this very reason.

|> 3. do these things take a bug front end?

	Yes, and many manufacturers want one in trade, or charge you a 
		core charge.

|> 4. Who makes a good frame? How much do they cost?

	Since you are from Stanford I can't help you with this one.  
	My father markets several chasis made by Berrien Buggy in 
	Berrien Springs, Michigan.  - But the shipping cost would be hell.  :-)

|> 5. how much ground can one of these things be made to clear? (and not
|> always be rolling over).

	Good question.  I guess mine cleared about a foot a half, but that 
	figure is from memory.  

|> 6. are there any gotcha's in building one of these things?
|> 
|> thanks...rich cower

	Well the main gotcha is trying to get insurance and certification 
	for road use. ( I bet these are even worse in eco-sensitive California )
 	
	
					Dave Fulton
P.S.    Advertisement

	By the way, my Dad has 25 years experience selling everything needed 
        to make a dune buggy from the ground up, as well as building, running
	and racing them, so if you need anything or have a few questions
	give him a call at:  ( and mention my name )

	Don's Sport Vehicle Sales    (he's Don Fulton)  
	(313) 533-0711
	Tuesday thru Saturday  9 - 5 Eastern Time    Friday 9 - 6

	Dune Buggys are his specialty, he ships UPS daily, and he accepts MC,
	Visa and Discover.  :-)

-- 

The moon may be smaller than Earth, but it's further away.
From: kiviat@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Brian Kiviat)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Oil Dripping: Inner CV Boot
Date: 21 Jan 93 12:32:32 GMT
Reply-To: kiviat@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Brian Kiviat)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.autos.vw, kiviat@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Brian Kiviat) writes:
>I noticed a small puddle of oil under my '86 GTI last week and saw some
>leakage around the oil pan. While replacing the oil pan gasket, I noticed
>oil at the outer end of the inner CV boot. There was a small (1mm) hole
>Do I have a leaky seal or what? Please give me your thoughts. Thank
>you in advance.

I think I found the problem. A leaky transmission seal leaking tranny
oil into the CV boot.

   O
   I\   Brian Kiviat (301)227-1833
   I \  kiviat@oasys.dt.navy.mil
  /     David Taylor Model Basin
   \___________________________
			     \\
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: ep502ca@pts.mot.com (CHARLES ACTOR X2751 P7091)
Subject: Re: Name that Beetle!
Reply-To: ep502ca@pts.mot.com
Organization: Paging and Wireless Data Group
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 14:18:01 GMT

71 or 72 super beetle.  They don't have front disks though.  There
may be an aftermarket company that sells a kit to add them.  Go with
the 72 as it has better engine cooling. The motor is a 1600 dual port.
It is carburated.  I would stay away from FI.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: ptrei@bistromath.mitre.org (Peter Trei)
Subject: Re: Door Handles are a Pain in the *@!
Keywords: door handles stick
Organization: The MITRE Corporation
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 15:07:15 GMT

In article <C19Eso.8uC@watserv1.uwaterloo.ca> jfreder@healthy.uwaterloo.ca (Jody Frederick) writes:
>Hello to all:  I have a problem that I've seen discussed in this newsgroup
>before, but I forget the solution that was suggested.  My door handles of
>my VW Jetta are all sticking and it's happened in every VW I've ever
>owned.  We've never quite known how to fix it, we've adapted.  However, my
>four door is now a 1/2 door (all but the driver's side are completely
>stuck!!).  I'd really appreciate it if some kind person out there would
>please tell me how to fix this annoyance before I have to resort to
>entering my car through its sunroof (no snickering, it's happened before). 

I had this problem too, and solved it with r.a.vw advice.

    I used WD-40 and white lithium grease aerosols. If you take off
the outside door handle and the plate which carries the dead bolt on
the edge of the door, and unscrew the inside locking button, you
should get enough access (if not, you'll have to pop off the inside
door panel, which is a minor hassle).

    Spray all parts with the lithium grease (it's kind of messy), work
the mechanism back of forth, then reassemble. It worked like a charm.

							Peter Trei
							ptrei@Mitre.org