From: jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Draft FAQ again
Date: 3 Jan 93 21:59:08 MST
Distribution: world
Organization: University of Wyoming - Laramie, WY

This FAQ is an early draft, and probably contains a lot of gaps.
Hopefully it contains little or no information that is inaccurate!
For suggestions/corrections, send me a note at jimkirk@uwyo.edu.
I'm in the middle of moving all the names/addresses to a separate
section at the end, so things are a bit dis-organized at the moment
but as rec.crafts.metalworking just got formed, I thought I'd post
it anyway.

A tiny bit of history:  there exists a group trial.rec.metalworking,
but few sites pick up the "trial" feed.  Also, the trial method of
group creation sort of died of neglect, so this group (rec.crafts.metalworking)
was created to take its place and become an official wide-spread group.
So, to both old and new readers, welcome to r.c.m!

Many thanks to those who have contributed (in no particular order):
Matthew Jones, Bill Brown, Phil OKunewick, Tim Eisele.  Also, I've
been grabbing bits from postings and copying them into the FAQ, such
as book reviews and more addresses, so thanks to many!

Generally, units below are United States dollars, degrees Fahrenheit,
and all the other silly backwards units we Americans still use.  Sorry.


The questions being answered:

1.  Wnat are some good books on metalworking?
2.  Who makes good lathes/mills/etc?
3.  Where do I buy a machine?
4.  What are good magazines to subscribe to?
5.  Where can I get raw material for my projects?
6.  Where can I get tools, drill bits, etc.?
7.  What are some of the related professional/hobby associations?
8.  How do I harden/temper metal?
9.  How do I wire up this strange motor?
10. How do I deal with mail-order suppliers?
11. How to sharpen knives, chisels, and other tools?
12. Names and addresses of publishers and suppliers


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

1.  What are some good books on metalworking?

   - How to Run a Lathe
     South Bend Lathe
     400 W. Sample Street
     South Bend, IN 46623

     This book may still be available from South Bend distributors.

   - Machine-Tool Work, by William P Turner and Halsey F Owen.
     1932 and 1945 (hence no ISBN number).  Some libraries may still have
     a copy, though you're probably out of luck for a purchase.

     Moderately good text, very good diagrams and pictures, especially
     of huge special-purpose machines like railroad wheel grinders.
     Suffers a bit from age, and seems intended for large industrial
     shops, but a good read if you find it.

   - Machine Shop Theory and Practice, by Albert M Wagener and Harlan R Arthur.
     1941 (hence no ISBN number).  Some libraries may still have a copy,
     though you're probably out of luck for a purchase.

     Fairly good text, more specific techniques than the Turner/Owen book.
     Suffers a bit from age, but still a nice instructional book.

   - Lathe Operations, by Richard R. Kibbe.
     1985, ISBN 0-471-89023-5.
     Adapted from materials originally prepared by the Engineering Industry
     Training Board of Great Britain.  Also in the same series: Milling
     Machine Operations, and Grinding Machine Operations.

     A step-by-step text with about 2 photos and lots of simple but
     usually-clear drawings.  Shows how to do most any common lathe
     operation (and a few uncommon ones) in as few words as possible.

     Check page 90 for what seems to be a man with two right hands.

   - The Making of Tools, by Alexander G Weygers
     Prentice Hall Press, 1973, ISBN 0-671-60924-6
     A modern book about doing things the old way.  How the artist/craftsperson
     can design, make, sharpen and temper tools.  May be available from
     Centaur Forge.

   - Machinery's Handbook
     A standard reference book for machinists, available from most
     distributors of machines or tools.



2.  Who makes good lathes/mills/etc?


    Who makes good cars?  This is almost purely a personal preference,
    though in general the imported machines (Grizzly, Jet, Enco) seem
    to rate lower than US-built machines (South Bend, Bridgeport).  However,
    the imports are usually MUCH less expensive, offsetting some of the
    quality issues for home shops.  It has also been reported that South
    Bend has been going "downhill" lately.

    There is some indication that Grizzly equipment is slightly better
    than other "Taiwanese" machines.

    Unimats are sometimes considered "toys" rather than real machines,
    though they may do just what you want if you don't push them hard.
    The Unimat PC may be a nice small CNC lathe; any experiences?

    Sherline, Taig, and Servo make "miniature" machines of unreported
    quality.

    Enco
    IPS

3.  Where do I buy a machine?

    Check out the Yellow Pages, and the ads in the magazines.  For example:

      Blue Ridge Machinery and Tools, Inc
      Alley Supply Company
      Enco
      Grizzly

4.  What are good magazines to subscribe to?


    - The Home Shop Machinist (HSM), "dedicated to precision metalworking"
      Published 6 times per year by Village Press, $24.50/year.
      Note that many back issues are not available, though most of the
      projects are available in the "Projects" book series.  Mostly
      techniques, no steam, some gasoline engine projects, many tooling
      projects.  Probably the best of the US magazines.  Some projects
      will span several issues.

    - Projects In Metal (PIM).
      Published 6 times per year by Village Press, $19.
      Only projects, no advertisements!  Each project is complete in one
      issue.  A "weak sister" to HSM, apparently started in part to handle
      overflow projects from HSM.  Earlier back-issues have been combined
      into a new book series called "Metalworking".

    - Live Steam Magazine.
      Published 6 times per year by Village Press, $31.
      Mostly trains, some techniques, some stationary engines, lots of
      history and club information.

    - Modeltec.  "Machinist Projects of Beauty and Usefulness"
      Published by George R. Broad, 12 per year.
      P.O. Box 1226
      St. Cloud, MN 56302
      Phone: (612) 654-0815
      $31 per year ($38 in U.S. funds if outside U.S)
      Similar to Live Steam but not restricted to trains.

    - Strictly IC
      (IC stands for Internal Combustion)
      Published 6 times per year
      $24.25 (+$2.00 US foreign, WA residents add $2.00 sales tax)
      Robert A. Washburn, editor
      24920 43rd Avenue S.
      Kent, WA  98032

      Concentrates on construction of miniature internal combustion engines,
      and has a few classified ads, usually for engine castings.

    - Model Engineer
      Published biweekly, about $80/year
      Argus Specialist Publications Ltd.
      P.O. Box 35 Wolsey House
      Wolsey Road, Hemel Hempstead
      Herts HP2 4SS England
      Telephone: Hemel Hempstead (0442)41221

      The king of model machining magazines it has been around for about
      100 years.  Varied construction articles, lots on trains.  Some
      projects can take years to complete!  Extensive back-issues are
      available from Tee (q.v.),

    - Engineering in Miniature
      Published monthly, about $30/year.
      Tee Publishing

      Similar to Model Engineer, more steam traction engines.
      Has an extensive collection of back issues of this and other
      model magazines.

    - Clockmaker
      Published 6 times per year, around $30/year
      Tee Publishing
      Discusses how to build mechanical clocks, with many projects spanning
      several issues.  Big names like John Wilding write in this magazine.
      Classified ads for clockmaking supplies.

    - Workshop Masters (still around?)

    - Horn and Whistle

    - Traction Engine Magazine

    - The Anvil's Ring
      This is the publication of ABANA (see below, associations)
      published 6 times a year; cost is $24 per year, or you get
      it as part of the $35 dues for joining ABANA.

    - Anvil
      Published monthly, about $30 per year
      See Centaur Forge, elsewhere.

5.  Where can I get raw material for my projects?

    The Yellow Pages are often a good place to start.  Also,
    the advertisements in magazines like Home Shop Machinist.

    Another way is to go find your nearest junk yard and/or metal recycling
    business and scrounge around.  Make friends with a machinist at the
    nearest mining operation and ask for their throwaway "scraps".  Order
    from a supply company (see ads in the magazines).

    Sometimes you can discover a creative re-use.  For example, buy a few
    old aluminum automotive pistons, perhaps from your junk yard or a
    garage that rebuilds engines.  Cut off the top and clean it up on your
    lathe.  Now you have a nice round blank to start some project with.
    Similar discoveries should be posted to the newsgroup!

    The mail order places:
        Cole's Power Models
        P.O. Box 788
        Ventura, CA  93001
        (805) 643-7065

        Castings, books, supplies, accessories.  For trains,
        stationary steam, gasoline engines.

        Power Model Supply
        Rt 1 Box 177
        NW Cor Hwy 67 & Lond Rd
        Desoto, MO  63020
        (314) 586-6466

        Similar to Cole's but heavier on the trains.


        Railroad model supply

        Little Engines

        J. Malcolm Wild (Clocks)
        12 Norton Green Close
        Sheffield S8 8BP England
        Telephone: 0742 745693

        Supplies and accessories for clockmaking; for books, see
        TEE publishing.

        Centaur Forge, Ltd.   (Blacksmithing)
        117 North Spring Street
        Burlington, WI 53105

     and all those little garage shops producing castings

6.  Where can I get tools, drill bits, etc.?

    Many of the places that sell equipment also sell tools
    but there are also outlets that only sell accessories such as
    lathe bits, drills, taps, and so on.  Scan the "names and
    addresses" section elsewhere in this FAQ.

7.  What are some of the related professional/hobby associations?

    ABANA - Artist Blacksmiths Association of North America
    PO Box 1181
    Nashville, Indiana 77448
    (812) 988-6919
    Dues are $35 per year, which also includes their publication
    "The Anvil's Ring" (see earlier, magazines)

8.  How do I harden/temper metal?

    This is a *huge* subject, and depends on the metal, and intended use.
    Most of the time, this question is asked regarding steel, so we'll
    give a brief description of that, based on an article in Home Shop
    Machinist (Sept/Oct 1991, "Heat Treating Basics" by Steve Acker).

[Also thanks to Steve Gaudio (?) for his post of 18-Sep-1992,
 and clarifications by Tim Eisele]

    Iron will, at common temperatures, organize itself into an atomic
    structure that is called "body centered cubic."  This consists of
    overlapping cubes with an atom at each corner, and one more in the
    center of the cube.  But above roughly 1400 degrees F there is a
    change in structure to "face centered cubic" and the central atoms
    migrate to the faces of the cubes.  This latter form is not magnetic.

    Steel is basically iron with some carbon mixed in though modern
    alloys have various other metals and substances as well.  When
    steel is heated to the critical temperature (about 1400 degrees F),
    the iron will change to face centered, and the carbon atoms will
    migrate into the central position formerly occupied by an iron atom.
    This form of red-hot steel is called austentite.  Since it is not
    magnetic, a magnet may be used to determine when the critical
    temperature has been reached (though the magnetism may be lost
    before the transition, so this is only approximate).  Complete
    migration of the carbon atoms may take a minute or two.

    If you let this cool slowly, the iron atoms migrate back into the cube
    and force the carbon back out, resulting in soft steel called pearlite.
    If the sample was formerly hard, this softening process is called
    annealing.

    If you cool (quench) the sample suddenly by immersing it in oil or
    water, the carbon atoms are trapped, and the result is a very hard,
    brittle steel.  Too brittle for most uses.  The structure is now a
    body centered tetragonal form called martensite.

    So, the next step is to heat it back up, to between 200 and 800
    degrees F or so, depending on the desired end hardness.  This allows
    some of the hardness to relieved and is called tempering.  The
    amount of tempering that is desirable depends on the final use.
    Cutting tools are very hard, knife blades less so because they
    must flex under use rather than break.  Tempering is a trade-off
    between hardness and flexibility.

    Accurately measuring the tempering temperature is important.  A
    nice, expensive thermostatically-controlled oven is great.  Or,
    some special compounds can be applied that melt or change color at
    the right temp, such as Tempilstik and Tempilaq.  If the steel is
    clean to start with, then you may notice that it goes through
    certain color changes as it heats up, with understandably vague
    descriptions such as "light straw" indicating about 440 degrees F,
    and purple=520.  These colors are not incandescence colors, but
    are viewed in normal room light.  The colors are due to types of
    surface oxidation that are temperature dependent.

    When quenching, it is often very important to avoid stirring a
    part because this will cool one side much more quickly than
    the other, and might cause warping.  For knife blades, as an
    example, move it strictly up and down during the quench.

    Case hardening is a bit trickier, and involves heating the object in
    some sort of agent that promotes hardening at the surface.  Liquid
    cyanide works well but should be out of the question for the home
    machinist.  Luckily there are substitutes available from suppliers,
    one being called Kasenit, for example.  Note that hardness is
    often measured using a "Rockwell C" scale, with 63 being very hard
    and 35 being fairly soft.

    A type of steel called "drill rod" is especially useful for home/hobby
    use.  As its name implies, it is the type of steel used for drills,
    and is available is round or square form (square drills?).  Drill
    rod is also very useful around the shop because it is usually made
    to very accurate dimensions.  Some types of drill rod are formulated
    for hardening via heating then quenching in oil, while others are
    quenched in water.  The difference is that water will cool more quickly
    because it's a good conductor (though it may also form a steam "jacket"
    that moderates this effect), while oil will cool more slowly.  Since
    rapid cooling may warp a part, this could make a difference in the
    final product.

    It has been reported, by way of example, that you can make springs
    out of hacksaw blades by annealing, bending, hardening, then tempering
    by heating to a "metallic blue" and quenching in oil.  I suspect lots
    of experimenting may be in order before you get things just right.
    Remember the steel must be clean (no paint etc.) to see the colors.

    Quenching in oil may be a fire hazard.  Take proper precautions, such
    as removing flammable materials from the area, wear proper clothing,
    and have an extinguisher handy.  Even quenching in water presents
    the risk of scalding from steam or splattered water.

    As one newsgroup reader pointed out, not only are there a gerbillion
    alloys, but zillions of treatments to choose from, and this is just
    for steels.  Other metals, like brass, can be hardened by "working"
    the metal, by bending, hammering, peening, etc.  Brass is usually
    annealed with a quench, which is the opposite of steel.

    It's best to carefully research your particular project first,
    especially if it's something that is valuable.

    A recent book, "Simplified Tool Steel Heat Treatment and Selection
    Guide" by Bill Bryson, may be of some help.  Anyone read it yet?
    $31.95 from Bill Bryson, Dept. HSM, RR 1, Box 4243, Union, NH 03887.

    Power Model Supply recently (December 1992) listed two small heat
    treating ovens in an HSM ad.   2000 degrees F, 4x4x4 inch $330,
    6x6x6 $435.  Write them for more info or see the ad.


9.  How do I wire up this strange motor?

    (with thanks to Bill Brown)

    The following describes how to deal with an AC/DC "universal" motor
    that has 4 unmarked wires coming out.  Be sure you don't have some
    other motor, such as a 3-phase unit.

    Other motors are covered in the FAQ for the newsgroup rec.woodworking.

    The universal motor is called that because it can run on AC or DC.
    Older units might have been designed this way because very early
    power distribution had not settled on AC or DC, or with 50 or 60
    cycles.  Thus, such a motor could be used universally, in all locations
    provided the voltage was within reason.  This still may be a concern
    with some on-site jobs feeding power tools from DC sources such as
    portable welding rigs.  Another nice thing about these motors is
    that they are easily reversible.

    The first task is to determine which two wires go to the armature,
    and which go to the field winding.  If you can't tell by examining
    where the wires go (or the nameplate), get an ohmmeter and connect
    it to the wires until you find two that show some continuity.  Rotate
    the shaft slowly by hand and note if the resistance changes as you
    turn it.  If it does, you probably have the armature, and the
    fluctuations are due to the brushes making and breaking contact with
    the commutator.  The other winding (field coil) should show a steady
    resistance.

    Presuming you want the ability to reverse the motor, find a switch
    that can handle the rated current, in the double-pole-double-throw
    configuration with a center-off position.  The suggested hook-up is
    (as usual, a bad ASCII graphic):

                                 +-------------------+
                                 |                   |
     1 ----------FIELD-------o<--O   o               A
     2  white                 \     /                R
     0                          \ /                  M
                                 X                   A
     V                          / \                  T
     O  black                  /   \                 U
     L ----------------------o<--O   o               E
     T                           |                   |
     S                           +-------------------+

     NOTE: no connection at "X";
           Include a green-wire frame ground if at all possible

    Avoid reversing the motor while it is moving in the "other" direction
    as this could severely stress the switch and motor (particularly
    the brushes).  Move the switch to the center (off) position, and
    continue on to the other direction after the motor has stopped.

    Please, always be careful when dealing with electricity.  If you
    don't feel comfortable and safe doing such a hook-up, find someone
    who can do it for you, or at least who can check what you're doing.


10.  How do I deal with mail-order suppliers?
     The following suggestions were offered by Stu Friedberg --

Get the catalogs and know what you want.  There are often many
sizes, models, and sources of an "X", so you need to know which
particular X when you write and especially when you call to place
an order.  Even the smallest industrial supply houses deal in tens
of thousands of items, which means even very knowledgable order-takers
can't always give you the information you need over the phone.
Reserve queries about details for stuff that you couldn't figure
out for yourself.

Many of the order takers are very helpful and knowledgable.  At
*SOME* sources the order takers can actually go look in the stock
bins, take a micrometer to measure a shaft diameter, etc.  I have
had people at three different companies do something like this for
me.  However, some companies have computerized centralized order
taking at a location completely separate from their stocking
locations, so don't *assume* people can tell you anything that's
not written in the catalog.  I've had one company tell me to just
order a set of change gears and return them if I couldn't use them.
This wasn't crazy, the order taker simply had no relevant information
available.

Get the catalogs and shop around.  Very often there are *big*
differences in price between identical items, and even more often
one source will have a unique or slightly different item at an
excellent price compared to the "standard" item.  There are lots
of reasons for this.  I have seen 2 to 1 price ratios on things
like shim stock (from the same manufacturer) and "can't twist"
clamps (from different manufactures but of equal quality).
Occasionally, you will find 10 to 1 price rations on things like
boxes of hose clamps.  Great deals if you look around.  If you can,
examine a tool at a local store (where the prices may be higher)
to see what the quality is like, before placing the order by mail
or telephone.

You can also learn a great deal by perusing the catalogs, both
about tools in general, and about specific details of specific
tools.  There's seldom enough room in a catalog to print all the
manufacturer's data, but different sources will select different
stuff to print.  I have many times used one company's catalog to
select the precise thing I wanted, then bought it from another
company because the price was better.

Most suppliers ship quickly if they have a credit card authorization.
If they don't ship within two working days on a routine basis, shop
somewhere else in the future.  One full working day is quite common.

I have had only one bad incident in the 4 or 5 years I've been
buying industrial stuff by telephone, and came through with no
losses.  A supply company (which entered bankruptcy proceedings
just a little while ago, by the way) charged my credit card for
the full amount of my order, didn't ship for a month, and was
completely clueless as to when they would ship my order.  That is
intolerable, and protection against abuse like that is one good
reason to use a credit card rather than sending a check.  You don't
need to sue to get your money back if the merchant doesn't come
through.  (If it's not obvious, I got my money back and started to
throw out that company's catalogs as they arrived.)

Some industrial suppliers don't do back orders because it slows
things down.  The stock pickers send what's in stock and mark out
of stock items on the invoice.  This may be a little different from
retail mail order sources you've dealt with in the past.  Contact
them about what's in stock and when it's expected to be available.

Be prepared to return an item.  Having to return an item because
it was misshipped, defective, or of unsatisfactory quality is *NOT*
an indictment of the supplier.  If you do enough shopping for
industrial supplies, you will find that you have to do a partial
return maybe 1 time in 5.  Don't get mad; don't get upset.  It's
routine.  Industrial supply and consumer retail have different
expectations about quality control.

When you return an item, follow instructions.  Many, but not all,
suppliers require you to contact them for a "return authorization"
number, which you must write on the outside of the package.  You
should include a copy of the invoice in the package.  This is *NOT*
an opportunity for the supplier to screw you over.  This is a
routine matter, and most of them just ask you to note on the invoice
what was wrong and if you want credit, a refund, an exchange for
something else, or whatever.

11.  How to sharpen knives, chisels, and other tools?
     This is actually a tricky subject, and beyond the scope of this FAQ.
     However, an excellent book on sharpening knives and similar tools is:

        The Razor Edge Book of Sharpening, by John Juranitch.
        1985 by Warner Books, ISBN 0-446-38002-4, $12.50
     This book can often be found in the larger knife stores, such as
     frequently found in USA malls.  It is a bit biased in that John also
     sells sharpening equipment, but the techniques are fundamental and
     can be used with competitor's equipment such as Lansky's.

     Sharpening drill bits has never seemed easy.  If you have lots of
     money, Darex makes drill and mill sharpeners, and Glendo's Accu-
     Finish line addresses simpler cutting bits (and they even re-sell
     some Darex tools in conjunction with their grinders).

     Some of the magazines will print articles from time to time on
     sharpening, and/or building sharpening equipment.

12.  Names and addresses of publishers and suppliers (with special thanks
     to Stu Friedberg):

   -  Argus Books
      P.O. Box 35 Wolsey House
      Wolsey Road, Hemel Hempstead
      Herts HP2 4SS England
      Telephone: Hemel Hempstead (0442)41221

      Publishers of Model Engineer in England.  Heavy on live-steam model
      trains, mostly machining topics, some interesting plans.

   -  Blue Ridge Machinery and Tools, Inc.
      PO Box 536
      2806 Putnam Avenue
      Hurricane, WV  25516
      800-872-6500, 304-562-3538 in WV, 304-562-5311 (fax)
      Credit cards, COD's up to $200
      M,W,F 9-5 EST, Tu,Th 9-9 EST

      Lathes, milling machines, presses, brakes, from puny to industrial.
      Accessories and parts for popular machines from Myford, South Bend,
      Atlas, Sherline, Emco-Maier, etc.
      Hand tools and books of interest to hobbiests and professionals.
      Woodworking power tools
      Steel, brass, aluminum, tool steel in small quantities.

      110 page catalog

   -  Brownell's
      200 South Front Street
      Montezuma, Iowa, 50171
      (515) 623-5401, (515) 623-3896 (FAX)

      Brownell's is a fine firm that specializes in gunsmithing, though
      a lot of their merchandise is great for general-purpose metalworking.
      Catalog is $3.75, refundable with first order of $35 or more.

   -  Centaur Forge Ltd.
      P.O. Box 340
      117 N. Spring Street
      Burlington, WI  53105
      (414) 763-9175, (414) 763-8350 (FAX)

      Publications concentrate on forging, blacksmithing, though all aspects of
      metalworking are covered.  A good, well-organized collection.
      They also publish a magazine, Anvil (see earlier section).

   -  Darex Corporation
      220 Hersey Street
      Box 277
      Ashland, OR  97520
      (503) 488-2224, (503) 488-2229 (FAX)

      Precision drill and end-mill sharpening equipment.  Some of their
      complete systems are very expensive and intended for large
      production shops (around $2000).  They also sell fixtures for use
      with existing grinders (about $250) and sharpeners for taps, reamers,
      and countersinks.

   -  Enco Manufacturing Co.
      13 stocking locations, main site in Chicago, IL (addresses not handy now)
      800-873-6260 (24 hr orders, automatically routes to closest location)
      800-873-6264 (fax, also auto routes)
      Credit cards, COD's up to $500, discount for pre-pay by check
      $25 minimum order
      Customer service & Chicago showroom M-F 7-midnight CST, Sa 8-4 CST, Su 9-4 CST

      Lathes, milling machines, etc, from small to large NC machines.
      Hand tools, cutting tools, storage cabinets, shop supplies
      Maker (not just distributer) of turret bed lathes

      230 page catalog

   -  Glendo Corporation
      900 Overlander Road
      P.O. Box 1153
      Emporia, KS 66801
      (800) 835-3519, (316) 343-1084, (316) 343-9640 (FAX)

      Their Accu-Finish line of "advanced sharpening equipment"
      includes grinders and fixtures for lathe cutting bits and
      similar tools.  Also, most affordable for the home shop,
      the Grind-R-Table for use with existing grinders.  They often
      run ads in the magazines, or you can call for information.

   -  Harbor Freight Tools
      3491 Mission Oaks Blvd.
      Camarillo, CA  93011-6010
      800 423 2567

      They mostly sell cheap tools.  Usually cheap = inexpensive, sometimes
      cheap = junky.  All (or most all) imported.  They are best for items
      which have a lot of metal in them and for which fine/precision is not
      your main objective.  They have really great buys on anvils, cold chisel
      sets, screwdriver sets, tinsnips, crowbars, ... and free shipping (other
      than a $2.95 handling fee) for orders over $50.
  
   -  Industrial Pipe and Steel Co.
      9936 E. Rush Street
      South El Monte, CA  91733
      800-423-4981, 818-443-9467, 818-579-4602 (fax)
      Credit cards, COD's
      M-F 7:30-4:30 PST, Sa 7:30-1 PST

      Cutting tools, hand tools, air tools, lathes, milling machines, you
      name it.  Shop supplies, tool and die maker supplies, you name it.
      Metal of all sorts, you name it.  New and used press die sets.
      Surplus rounds and plates.  Buy by the foot, buy by the pound.
      Most of their metal stock is not listed in the catalog(s).
      Call and ask what they've got.  Definitely oriented toward professional
      users, not hobbiests.  Full line distributors for most instrument makers,
      Starrett, Mitutoyo, etc.  Quality ranges from ultra-classy, great deals,
      garbage-at-any-price import.

      Small catalog several times a year, 200 page catalog once or
      twice a year, and a 750 page full-line catalog once every five
      years.  They came out with a full-line catalog in 92.  Get one if you can.

   -  Kitts Industrial Tools
      22384 Grand River Avenue
      Detroit, MI  48219
      800-521-6579, 313-538-2585 in MI, 313-538-6499 (fax)
      Credit cards, COD's
      $25 minimum order
      M-Sa 9-5 EST

      Cutting tools, hand tools, air tools, supplies
      Quality ranges from ultra-classy, great deals, garbage-at-any-price import

      150 page catalog

   -  Klockit
      P.O. Box 636
      Lake Geneva, WI  53147
      (800) KLOCKIT    (i.e. (800) 556-2548)

      Books, kits, plans, tools, parts for clocks and watches.

   -  Lindsay Publications Inc.
      P. O. Box 538
      Bradley, IL  60915-0538
      (815) 935-5353

      Lindsay publishes books for the home shop, covering casting, forging,
      machining, and a few plans for building engines and such.

   -  Penn Tool Company
      1776 Springfield Ave
      Maplewood, NJ 07040
      (800) 526-4956

      A very-well-stocked supplier with a very large selection of
      drills, taps, reamers, and other machining tools.  However,
      in some cases their prices seem outrageous, so check around
      first.  On the other hand, they may be the only source for
      that odd-sized spiral-flute reamer you need, or that #00 tap.
      Their catalog is free.

   -  S. LaRose, Inc.
      234 Commerce Place, P.O. Box 21208
      Greensboro, NC  27420
      (919) 275-0462

      Watch and clock movements, repair parts, supplies, tools, equipment.

   -  Scanlon American Reprints
      P.O. Box 379
      Modesto, CA  95353
      (209) 667-2907

      Scanlon sells many books on clocks.

   -  Servo Products Company
      433 N. Fair Oaks Ave., Box 90370
      Pasadena, CA  91109
      (818) 796-2460, (818) 796-3845 (FAX)

      Small precision drill presses and milling machines, including a
      whopping expensive CNC mill ($15,000).  Power feeds for mills.
      CNC small lathe, CNC add-on for large mills.

   -  Stock Drive Products
      2101 Jericho Turnpike
      Box 5416
      New Hyde Park, NY  11042-5416
      (516) 328-3300

      These folks make all sorts of gears, drives, bearings, couplings,
      and related stuff.  Small, not hydroelectric-sized.  Ask them for
      their free publication "Handbook of Gears."  They also publish
      "Handbook of Shafts, Bearings & Couplings,"  "Handbook of Timing
      Belts, Chains & Friction Drives," "Handbook of Design Components,"
      "Aluminum Extrusions & Accessories."  They also package the whole
      set (I asked for just the handbook of gears and got all five).

   -  Tee Publishing
      Edwards Centre
      Regent Street
      Hinckley
      Leics. LE100BB England
      0455-637173/616419

      From England, they publish Engineering in Miniature and other magazines.
      Similar to Argus, they have clockmaking books as well.


   -  Wholesale Tool  (Stu Friedberg's favorite!)
      PO Box 68
      Warren, MI  48089-0068
      12155 Stephen Drive
      Warren, MI  48089-3962
      800-521-3420,  800-521-3661 (fax), 313-754-9270, 313-754-8652 (fax)

      Broader selection of hand tools, fewer large machines than IP&S.
      Fork lifts.  No bulk metals, but tool steel, shim stock, threaded rod,
      etc.  Vast selection of cutting tools and grinding wheels.  Scattering of
      interesting surplus items.  Definitely oriented toward professional
      users, not hobbiests.  Full line distributors for most instrument makers.

      500 page full line catalog twice a year.  You have to order by 8 digit
      stock number, so copy carefully.  :-)

      6 locations, main site in Warren, MI.  Most items at most locations,
      some items in Michigan only, very few at other locations only.
      Credit cards, COD's with some payment restrictions
      $25 minimum order

      The other locations:

      PO Box 481
      Stoughton, MA 02072-0481
      1234 Washington Street (Route 138)
      Stoughton, MA 02072-3345, 800-343-1008, 617-344-0338, 617-341-0617 (fax)

      PO Box 700
      Brandon, FL  33509-0700
      9212 Adamo Drive
      Tampa, FL  33619-2631
      800-237-4689, 813-623-3099, 813-623-5816 (fax)

      PO Box 470952
      Tulsa, OK  74147-0952
      9909 East 55th Place
      Tulsa, OK  74146-6404
      800-331-4075, 918-627-2240, 918-627-2044 (fax)

      PO Box 240965
      Charlotte, NC  28224-0965
      4200 Barringer Drive
      Charlotte, NC  28217-1512
      800-438-3580, 704-527-4071, 704-523-7960 (fax)

      8100 Pinemont Drive
      Houston, TX  77040-6522
      800-231-4585, 713-895-7777, 713-895-8113 (fax)