HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: mcnamara@vixvax.mgi.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Wood Floor Puzzlers
Date: 7 Oct 92 20:12:26 GMT
Followup-To: misc.consumers.house
Organization: Management Graphics, Inc.

In article <1933@msa3b.UUCP>, kevin@msa3b.UUCP (Kevin P. Kleinfelter) writes:
> I'm planning to attempt a do-it-myself hardwood floor installation. I'll
> be replacing wall-to-wall carpet in my split-level living room.
> 
> There are 3 areas where I anticipate difficulties:
> 
>    1. I have a stone fireplace hearth which  extends to the subfloor.
>       The only thing I can think of here is to use a jigsaw to cut
>       the floor to fit as well as possible, and fill the crack with
>       mortar to match.

	No, no, no!  The new hardwood floor needs room to expand in all
directions.  This is critically important where it meets inflexible 
material like brick or mortar.  You want to leave a gap of 1/4" or more
and use quarter round, or a reducer to cover it.

> 
>    2. I have stairs which rise to meet the floor. I plan to put a
>       wide strip of wood with one edge rounded to form a border and
>       provide the overhang for the top step. (Alternatively, I could
>       just take the hardwood flooring right up to the edge, and then
>       use half-round moulding to form the overhang for the top step.)

	The top wooden step may be of the same thickness as your
new flooring (this was true in my house).  They can then be directly
abutted.  Once again, you can use a reducer to bridge the gap if
necessary.

> 
>    3. I have to meet a linoleum floor at one edge. The hardwood floor
>       will be slightly taller than the linoleum.  Should I use
>       quarter round to meet the linoleum?  I'm familiar with metal
>       strips which one uses to end carpet at linoleum, is there something
>       similar for hardwood floors?

	A reducer is the answer here as well.  These are (mostly)
triangular pieces of material that bridge the gap between the
hardwood floor and the adjoining surface.
	You will need to remove the plywood sub-floor (if there is one)
after you take the carpet up.

							Curt

****************************************************************************
Curt McNamara	(mcnamara@mgi.com)	|"Mistakes are part of the dues
Mgmt. Graphics, Inc.			|one pays for a full life."
1401 E. 79th St.			|	Sophia Loren
Mpls., MN    55425			|
****************************************************************************
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: propane generator
From: gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston)
Date: Sat, 10 Oct 92 16:25:09 CDT
Organization: Garys' Home for Obsolete Computers

randyw@iplmail.orl.mmc.com (Randy Walker) writes:

>   I am planning to determine the size generator I need by adding the wattage
>   used by such items as my well pump, refridgerator, microwave oven, a few
>   ceiling fans, solar water heater pump, etc.

Bear in mind that the startup current on electric motors is much
higher than the run current, and you need to size the generator
to handle the peak.

>   I want to buy a propane generator or convert a generator to run on propane.
>   The reasons are:
> 
>   1. I want have a supply of fuel on hand, and gasoline has a limited shelf
>      life, where propane's shelf life should be unlimited.

It's also a greater hazard in the event of an fire; an exploding 
propane cylinder is spectacular; moreso than gasoline.

>   2. I can store several "gas grill size" propane bottles in a small area.

By "gas grill size" I presume you mean mean the 20 lb size. If you're
planning to keep more than two around, better check your local fire
codes. They probably have limits on how many can be stored in an
occupied dwelling or residential area.

>   3. I think that a bottle of propane will run a generator for quite a while.

Depending on the size of the generator, the load, and the size of 
the bottle, a couple of hours. Propane has about half the energy
of gasoline.

>   Questions:
> 
>   1. Do you netters have any info on propane generators or conversion kits?

Not personally; check with RV places. They can fill you in on
all kinds of alternate supply options.

>   2. Is the above reasoning sound?

Except for your thoughts on runtime per bottle, pretty much so.
Personally, I'm leaning towards a diesel generator converted to
run on natural gas. If you have oil heat, a diesel will run on
#2 fuel oil; just put in a good filter.

>   3. How else can I make my house self sufficient? 

A holding tank for water. Having a supply on hand would cut down on run
time for the generator, saving fuel as well as wear-and-tear.

Gary Heston, at home....
gary@cdthq.uucp
From: jeff@claw.clearpoint.com (Jeffrey J. Griglack)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Original Size of This Old House Ranch
Date: 16 Oct 92 21:34:04 GMT
Reply-To: jeff@claw.clearpoint.com
Distribution: usa
Organization: Clearpoint Research, Hopkinton, MA

Given all the dispute the size of the ranch house that TOH is going to
expand, I decided to give WGBH a call and ask how large it is.  They
said that the original size of the ranch house was 1000 square feet.
--

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
|Jeff Griglack             |"To mess about with typewriters and latch keys    |
|jeff@claw.clearpoint.com  | and call it work!"                               |
|jeff@fang.clearpoint.com  |                          -- E.M. Forster         |
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: pkrause@triton.unm.edu (Paul Krause CIRT)
Subject: Re: Giving a house back to the bank!
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 92 20:24:01 GMT
Organization: University of New Mexico, Albuquerque

In article <BvuvIz.5HF@encore.com> mpalmer@encore.com (Mike Palmer) writes:
>A friend of mine in Oklahoma has been trying to sell his house for a couple
>of years with no luck.  The value is not much more than what he owes the bank 
>on it.  What happens if he just stops paying the mortgage?  How does this
>affect his credit rating etc.

The bank forcloses the property and puts the forclosure on his credit report
where it stays for 10? years. If he has moved out, the house sits empty while
the toilets and traps dry out, bugs move in, it gets vandalized etc.  Then in
at least some states, the house is sold at auction and the banks comes after
the owner with a deficiency judgement.  

The best advice I heard to the question of "What do you do with a negative 
cash flow property?" was give it to a friend.  He might at least do 
something for you someday, which is not true of the bank.  Or should I
say that you don't want what the bank will for sure do to you.

Paul

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: lowry@watson.ibm.com (Andy Lowry)
Subject: Re: Did the $5k first-time deduction die?
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 15:58:07 GMT
Distribution: usa
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center

In article <1992Oct9.002556.19189@elroy.jpl.nasa.gov> pjs@euclid.JPL.NASA.GOV (Peter J. Scott) writes:
 > I know, it's a forlorn hope, but I just want to make sure: did
 > the $5k deduction for first-time home buyers that Bush trumpeted
 > in his state of the union address survive, or did it die of
 > neglect?  I never even heard of Congress debating it.

Last I heard, there was a $2500 version that was kicking around for a
while but eventually got dropped from the tax bill that Congress
finally passed last night before final adjournment.  That bill is
expected to be vetoed by Bush.  So bottom line, unless what I've heard
is wrong, is no credit (which, incidentally, is what it was supposed
to be---much better than a deduction) this year.  Sigh...
--
Andy Lowry, lowry@watson.ibm.com, (914) 784-7925
IBM Research, P.O. Box 704, Yorktown Heights, NY  10598
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Suggestions for bathroom wall material
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Sat, 10 Oct 92 03:46:01 GMT

In article <1992Oct10.032744.25506@ee.eng.ohio-state.edu> sca@dopey.eng.ohio-state.edu (Stan Ahalt) writes:
>I have agreed to help my sister and her husband remodel their
>bathroom.  They live in a rather old (post-war) house that now has
>"melamine" wallboard on the walls of the bathroom, and it looks -
>disgusting.
>
>Does anyone have suggestions for a wall material that is relatively
>moisture resistant and easy to work with?  Drywall covered with
>ceramic tile is not an option because of the expense.  Ventilation is
>quite poor in the room, so moisture resistance must be quite good - so
>normal drywall seems inappropriate.  Is "blue-board" (moisture
>resistant drywall - I think) a viable option.

Blue or green board is not acceptable over the tub if you have a shower.
It is just fine over the tub if you don't have a shower, and it will be
excellent everywhere else in the room. By the way, the only part of the
board that's moisture proof is the paper surface, so if you use this over
the tub, hang it horizontally and make sure that the edge near the tub is
an unbroken "factory" edge to keep water from wicking up into the plaster.

In this regard, once the taping and spackling is done, the joints in the
board will not be waterproof. You may want to put a layer of something
on this. I'm afraid I can't suggest anything, since the layer I applied
in my bathroom was tile!

If you do have a shower, I'd recommend green board covered with one of
those fiberglass or plastic tub surrounds. They may be a pain to install,
but that's your most durable low-cost option.

I would definitely recommend that you take care of the ventilation
situation by putting in a vent fan. Decent units can be had for $40
and up (there are cheaper ones, but I wouldn't  put one in my house).

I have heard that a good latex paint, properly applied, will never
mildew. I have also heard that you will always have a mildew problem
if you apply latex over enamel paint in a bathroom. My personal
experience is that both of these statements are absolutely correct.

patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | No city is large enough to support one lawyer
                    | No town is too small to support two.
                    |                        Samuel Clemens
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: james@wrs.com (James Moore)
Subject: Fuse box question - can't find the right fuse...
Reply-To: james@wrs.com
Organization: Wind River Systems
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 18:03:14 GMT

I've just moved into a duplex that has a fuse setup instead of a box
with circuit breakers.  There're two fuses, arranged vertically.  This
morning, I wanted to cut power to the bedroom so I could replace a
power outlet.  So, I unscrew the top fuse.  Turns out that one
controls the kitchen, living room, and bathroom.  I pull out the
bottom one, assuming that would cut power to the bedroom, but no such
luck.  The lights and outlet still are live.

So, what should I do?  Is it possible that the bedroom isn't connected
to the fuse box in the house at all?  Should I worry about the
mysterious fuse that doesn't seem to control anything?  I can cut
power to the bedroom by going to the outside fuse box and flipping the
lever that cuts power to the whole unit, but I'm a little woried about
not being able to find the fuse for the bedroom.

-- 
James Moore                            /|\                        james@wrs.com
Wind River Systems                     \|/                  Alameda, California
	 "Half of what he said meant something else, and the other half
			  didn't mean anything at all"
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: stacey@prefect.uucp (24462-lebitz)
Subject: Mysterious Hole
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 92 22:35:55 GMT

I have recently discovered a large, 5'x5'x5' square hole that is lined with
cinder blocks in my front lawn about 10' from my house 
that apparantly has been covered by wood and grass.
Recently, the wood and grass have failed leading to the discovery
of said hole.  Obviously this is a person-made hole.

We are wondering what this hole is for.  Two theories we have so far
are:

1.  A "catch basin" for the sewer system (may be the town's problem)
    We do have other easements going through our property.

2.  Something to do with French Drains (which I believe we have.)

Do either of these theories sound plausible?  Any other ideas?

I will try calling the town tommorrow but of course they get Columbus
Day off (but I don't) so they weren't available today.


Thanks,

Stacey Lebitz

stacey@bcr.cc.bellcore.com   
...!bellcore!prefect!stacey

From: chrisw@hpscit.sc.hp.com (Chris Wiles)
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 14:16:15 GMT
Subject: Re: Can I put flexible laminate over already-laminated countertops?
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Clara, CA
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house



	YEah you can, just scuff the surface first and use contact
cement. I worked as a cabinet maker and we did it all the time. The
trick with formica is fileing the edge after you trim it.


	chris wiles
From: rhaar@albert.cs.gmr.com (Bob Haar)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Dealing with ungrounded outlets
Date: 15 Oct 92 12:09:29 GMT
Reply-To: rhaar@albert.cs.gmr.com
Organization: G.M. Research and Environmental Staff

In article 28764@news.arc.nasa.gov, doshay@ursa.arc.nasa.gov (David Doshay) writes:
|>In article <1992Oct14.183011.4407@ulysses.att.com>, smb@ulysses.att.com (Steven Bellovin) writes:
|>|> In article <DRAND.92Oct12111042@spinner.osf.org>, drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas S. Rand) writes:
|>|> >    The other area of concern is bedroom where we
|>|> >    want to put a computer.  It has 2 prong
|>|> >    outlets.  Will replacing these with GFIs be
|>|> >    sufficient?
|>|> > 
|>|> > Yes.  Find the first outlet on the branch (usually tracing the wiring 
|>|> > in the basement is easiest) and replace it with the GFCI outlet.
|>|> 
|>|> Umm...  I'm not certain I agree with that.  A GFCI will certainly provide
|>|> protection for *you*.  It won't provide a good solid ground for the
|>|> electronics in the computer, nor for any surge suppressors.
|>
|>You must provide a ground. The GFI needs a ground to work. I cannot think of 
|>why your computer needs to be on a GFI circuit. I have a house like that in the
|>original posting. We ran new 3 wire circuits to the bathrooms and for the 
|>computer. If you are careful and plan well then you can do this without having
|>to rip out plaster. We did ours while remodeling the bathroom. We got the whole
|>upstairs on 3 breakers now instead of having one fuse for all up and some of
|>the downstairs.

Not exactly.

We had a discussion of this about six months ago in which I was
"educated" on this issue.

Many (maybe all) GFCI's will work properly without a ground connection -
properly in the sense of detecting a current imbalance between the
HOT and NEUTRAL lines and interrupt the circuit. But some GFCI's come
with instructions that say they require a ground. If you are installing
one of those, I would follow the manufacturer's instructions.  But, as the
wiring FAQ points out, the US "code" allows the use of GFCI as a retrofit
in some applications where no ground is available.

As has been stated, the use of a GFCI does provide additional protection
to humans. If I had only 2-wire circuits in my house, I would install
GFCI's in the bathroom and kitchen circuits.

But as also stated, ground-fault protection does not protect equipment
from things like static discharges, noise on the power lines or surges.
And the device that do protect against these hazards need a good
ground connection.

So - you pay your money and you take you choice, but you need to understand
what you are getting.





---
	Robert Haar               InterNet : rhaar@gmr.com 
	Computer Science Dept., G.M. Research and Environmental Staff
DISCLAIMER: Unless indicated otherwise, everything in this note is
personal opinion, not an official statement of General Motors Corp.
From: cole@uts.amdahl.com (William Cole)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Layoff Mortgage Insurance
Keywords: mortgage
Date: 13 Oct 92 02:51:27 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

I know that several real estate companies (e.g. Prudential)
offer thru them a plan where an insurance company will cover
your mortgage payments for upto 1 year if you buy a house 
and are layed off due the the economy.

Does anyone know the insurance companies that offer such policies
and are they available directly from the insurance company ? 

                                b.
-- 
Bill Cole, UTS/MLS Support, Amdahl Corporation
ARPA/CSNET:  cole@uts.amdahl.com  
Office Phone: (408) 992-3222
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: WANTED: Interior Latex Paint Recommendation
Date: 16 Oct 92 15:15:53 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ

In article <1992Oct12.183638.2395@njitgw.njit.edu>, tjs4525@hertz.njit.edu (Theodore Stites) writes:
> Hello,
> 
> I am about to undertake a major repainting of most 
> of the rooms in my house and would like some net style
> advice on what is the best interior latex paint.
> 
> Anyone have any good or bad experiences? 

I usually use either Glidden Spred Satin or Dupont Lucite. The Caldor stores
around here usually have one or the other on sale for around $10 a gallon.
I get one coat coverage from the Lucite; I've only used the Glidden over new
sheet rock, so I don't know how it does on this.

I've also used Valspar. They have nice color selection, but it's overpriced
and doesn't go on as easily as Lucite. I avoid Dutch Boy, but I no longer
remember why. I've not used Sears paints for years either.

As others have said, Benjamin Moore is a top-notch paint and expensive. I
use it in applications in which other paints have failed. On my mother's
galvanized steel gutters, Benjamin Moore lasted a few years longer than the
Glidden we had used. That's an exterior paint, though, and a tough application.
Their interior paints aren't worth the extra money to me.

patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | In Heaven, the police are British, the cooks are
                    |   French, the mechanics are German, the diplomats
George Patterson -  |   are Swiss, and the lovers are Italian.
                    | In Hell, the police are German, the cooks are
                    |   British, the mechanics are Italian, the diplomats
                    |   are French, and the lovers are Swiss.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: jimbo@amber.ssd.csd.harris.com (Jim Winters)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Refrigerator light
Date: 10 Oct 92 17:07:24
Organization: Harris Computer Systems Division
Distribution: misc
NNTP-Posting-Host: amber.ssd.csd.harris.com

Hi again.

Thanks for your ideas about why my refrigerator lights are dying.
I played with it today, but I didn't learn much.

The switch seems to work fine.  When a new bulb is in, it always comes
on when the door is opened and doesn't flicker.  I don't remember ever
seeing the bulb die (flash).  Just some time when we open the door, it
will be dead.  When I play with the switch by hand, it goes on and off
just like I expect it to, so it doesn't seem to be a sticky switch.
Also, I stuck an ohm meter on it and it seemed to always be either on
or off.  (I'm not highly skilled with an ohm meter, though.  :-)

The dead bulb does not appear to be cracked.  I can see the broken
filament inside.

I watched carefully as I closed the door and the light is indeed going
out.  I notice, though, that the door doesn't depress the switch very
far, so I might beef up the switch handle a little.

Thanks again for your input!
--

--
Jim Winters	jimbo@ssd.csd.harris.com
]O	See through science part of a backdoor.  A door made up of doors...
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Hanging a heavy cabinet
Date: 9 Oct 92 03:10:32 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <1992Oct07.165424.23444@i88.isc.com> jeq@i88.isc.com (Jonathan E. Quist) writes:
>patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie) writes:
>>clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis) writes:

>>>One way is to fasten strips to the back of the cabinet.  Say, 1x3.  They
>>>should be screwed into whatever "real wood" they cross on the back

>>As Chris says, this results in the cabinet being set out from the wall.
>>If this is undesireable, see if you can attach a 1x3 or 1x2 to the inside

>Or, as an alternative, once the cabinet is up you can frame the outside
>of it with the appropriate type of trim (for example, crown molding) to
>cover the space.

I was going to mention this, honest, but I forgot...

I did think of putting the strip on the inside, but this has the problem of being
rather noticable in a glass-front case, depending on how well you can reproduce
the finish.

If the thing *didn't* have a back, I'd suggest recessing it into the sides.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas S. Rand)
Subject: Re: This Old House
Organization: Open Software Foundation
	<1992Oct9.103430.28831@cbnews.cb.att.com>
	<JEFF.92Oct9093530@claw.clearpoint.com>
	<1992Oct11.130351.6198@merlin.hgc.edu>
Distribution: na
Date: 12 Oct 92 17:33:08

In article <1992Oct11.130351.6198@merlin.hgc.edu> jens4813@hgc.edu (Kevin Jensen) writes:

   I saw the show but I cant believe the $250,000 apprasal. Also they said that
   other houses in the neighborhood were going for $400,000 outrageous!!
   I have a funny feeling that the apprasel price is inflated for financing of
   the addition. There is no way that there improved house will get $400k
   unless they live practically inside the city.

Well,  so you might think,  but Newton is really pretty expensive.  
I think it is highly likely that the appraisal is correct.  Housing
prices in the greater Boston area run about 60% over the national
average even now that the local recession has had a bit of impact
(several years of decline in prices) and Newton was even higher
priced at the peak.

There are neighborhoods in Newton with really fabulous homes that 
would go in the $400K range.
--

----------------------------------------------------------------------
Douglas S. Rand <drand@osf.org>		OSF/Motif Dev.
Snail:         11 Cambridge Center,  Cambridge,  MA  02142
Disclaimer:    I don't know if OSF agrees with me... let's vote on it.
Amateur Radio: KC1KJ
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Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house