HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: shine@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (stephen.c.shine)
Subject: Re: Water changes
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 14:44:33 GMT

In article luke@tfs.com (Luke Matam) writes:
>What do you and other people do with SOOOOO many tanks ? Are you are 
> commerical >breeder ? Are you raising / breeding to compete at fish shows.

We're a bunch of social misfits who like to hide in our basements and watch
fish fornicate.  :-)

I think most of my fish and tanks are simply very pretty.  Fish display their
best colors when they're real happy or mating, so I try to keep them happy.
I find breeding and raising the fry to very rewarding as well.  There's 
nothing like having some people over to my basement who say "What?  You
raised THESE fish?  They're gorgeous!"  And yes, I do sell a good bit of
fish to stores or auction them off at fish club meetings, although I
doubt I'll ever break even on this hobby.

>| Luke S Matam                                            luke@tfs.com 
-- 
Steve Shine
AT&T Bell Labs    (908)949-8517
att!hoqub!shine   att!cbnewsh!shine
My opinions, not my employers, not my fault, blah, blah, blah.
From: mostafa@pender.ee.upenn.edu (Mostafa Eldefrawy)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Question about butterfly fish [M]
Date: 31 Aug 92 18:03:36 GMT
Reply-To: mostafa@pender.ee.upenn.edu (Mostafa Eldefrawy)
Organization: University of Pennsylvania

In a 38 gl marine tank with 6 x 2" fishes. Plenty of filteration.

Question: Is breaking a pair of butterfly fish a very bad idea?
I just bought a butterfly fish (about 2.5") out of 2 that were in
the same tank.
It did occur to me that they could be a pair. Anyway, back home
upon closely examining my books, it turns out it the fish is either 
a " Chaetodon pelewenis" or a "Chaetodon punctatofasciatous" or a hybrid.
Anyway it seems they are almost always found in pairs. I can go back to
the store and check if I can tell if they are male-female but I really
would be at the capacity of my 38 gl. marine tank if I get the pair. I 
know I can go above the capacity with extra filteration and care. 
Also this fish is not eating yet for 2 days, it is in perfect condition
apart from that.

So, Question: Is keeping the pair a must? 
Also, is  anybody  keeping this fish well fed?

Thanks in advance

setup: 38 gl. marine., biolife 55, skilter 250, diatom filter + carbon
and no gravel. Just added Nitrex box. Amonia and Nitrite very low.
Nitrate about 10 ppm. 2x40 W. fluorescent. Tank established 3-4 months.

Mostafa Eldefrawy
mostafa@pender.ee.upenn.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: schwarz@esrican.esri.com (Mr.Coach)
Subject: Light Hood materials?
Organization: ESRI Canada
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 00:10:45 GMT

I am about to construct a light hood made of 3/8" solid wood 
(ie. not plywood) and tongue & groove pine for my 72g marine 
tank.  I intend to have an opening in the back for ventilation.  
If I decide to go the MH route, then I'll buy one
or two fans.  

1)  What wood can/should I use?  I'd prefer something rather 
inexpensive yet practical.  Then again, who doesn't.  I'd like 
to avoid oak since whatever I use will be covered by the pine.
Besides, oak is expensive.

2)  What should I use to seal/protect the wood from warping,
salt damage, etc?  

3)  Has anyone mail ordered one of these "light hood, retrofit" 
deals into Canada from Hamilton Tech or Energy Savers Unltd. 
out of Cal.?  Any bad experiences?  I'm considering the 2 MH 
and 2 actinic model.


P.S.  I'll be visiting in and around the north eastern U.S. 
(e.g. NY, VT, NH, MASS, CONN, and maybe PA).  Are there any
"must see" marine aquaria places that are in this area?  I
hope I haven't left this question to open but I'll try it 
anyway.

Thanks,  
 
Brian.
From: schwarz@esrican.uucp (Mr.Coach)
Subject: LAVA rock as w/d substrate
Organization: ESRI Canada
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1992 15:15:20 GMT



A few questions re: substrate material in trickle filters...

I was sold -- and have since set up -- a homemade trickle filter from 
a 20g for a 72g marine tank.  The pet shop salesman who constructed the 
filter had placed "lava rock" in the lower tier of the filter to act as the
substrate; just below the bio balls.  I asked him if it was ok to use this 
material as I had never heard of this before.  He said that it was fine.
He said that it was porous and could be substituted for crushed coral.  
He said that the PH buffering capacity of crushed coral eventually 
deteriorates anyway.

Can someone set me straight on this matter.  I don't have any life forms
in the tank as yet but it will be a bit of a pain to change it now.  
I will, however, if deemed is necessary.  

I intend to start with an all fish / base rock setup.  If 
time/funding/interest permits, I will likely venture towards the reef 
setup when I become familiar with maintaining high water quality.

Has anyone heard/done this "lava rock" idea before?
Is it ok in a marine environment?
Do I *need* to change or remove it?
Is this fellow correct about PH buffering?

Thanks,

Brian




Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: mlp@uh.msc.edu (Mark Peterson)
Subject: Re: City Water Posts
Organization: Minnesota Supercomputer Center, Minneapolis, MN
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 10:43:53 GMT


    I missed all the posts on City water. I'm having problems with my
aquarium and suspect the water even though Ammonia, Nitrites, Nitrates,
and PH are fine. Could someone please send me these.



                                       mlp@uh.msc.edu
From: jan@bagend.uucp (Jan Isley)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Water changes
Date: 2 Sep 92 01:58:24 GMT
Organization: This space for rent.

howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel) writes:
>I used a python for a short while.  I find that a small pump with an
>attached hose works better for me.

The python is a great tool, but it has some disadvantages.

Please elaborate.  I have been experimenting with the pump routine
but I have not found a workable combination yet.  I have not tried
many combinations yet, but hey, pumps are expensive.  The latest
experiment involves a 1 hp motor and some big hoses, but that is
a long story...

What are you using (and how)?
-- 
Jan Isley   jan@bagend.uucp   gatech.edu!bagend!jan   (404)434-1335
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: rivan@bnr.ca (Robert Ivan)
Subject:  RE : UV sterilizers
Reply-To: rivan@bnr.ca
Organization: Bell Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 92 14:09:43 GMT

  I goofed. See my previous post 9181 entitled (none).

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: nclennan@churchst.ccs.itd.umich.edu (Neil F. Clennan)
Subject: Re: Help! Swim Bladder Disease!
Date: Thu, 03 Sep 92 16:21:21 EDT
Organization: The University of Michigan, Ann Arbor

In article <JOANM.92Aug31075137@moe.coe.uga.edu> joanm@moe.coe.uga.edu (Joan  
Maxfield UCNS) writes:
> 
> This morning I noticed one of my goldfish was having trouble getting
> to the bottom of the tank.  I assume he (she/whatever) has swim
> bladder disease.  It looks as though he is being pulled back up by his
> tail.  I remember a post a month or so back detailing how to medicate
> for this problem, if anyone still has it or knows how PLEASE e-mail
> me.
(DELETED)
> 	What causes this problem?  Could I have started it by adding
> different water?  What can I do to help it?

If someone does know of a cure/treatment, please post it to the net as
well as e-mailing it. I was under the impression that swim bladder
disorders were not cureable, though they are not generally fatal if
you don't let the conditions which caused it to continue. The fish
can continue to live a long life with the disorder.

In answer to how it's caused, it is most commonly caused by temperatures
that are too cold, or that fluctuate to wildly, but it can also be a
secondary problem caused by any disorder which causes other internal
organs to expand and place pressure on the swim bladder.

Neil Clennan
nclennan@churchst.ccs.itd.umich.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: wkb@cbnews.cb.att.com (wm.keith.brummett)
Subject: Re: more Fish People
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 01:18:26 GMT


    In article <2800195@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM>, booth@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM
    (George Booth) writes:
    > ...
    > We have a 1967 Pontiac GTO that took second place in the 1988 GTO
    > Association of America national convention. 

    Ooooh ... a '67 Goat!  My all-time favorite muscle car!  I'm *so*
    jealous.  A buddy of mine in high school had an awesome '67 Goat
    convertable until the climax of a high-speed jaunt left the cylinder
    heads and pistons about 50 yards into the corn fields on either side
    of the road (his hood became a convertable, too :-) ).

    Sorry for the lack of piscine content.

    -- Keith

-- 
    | (614) 860-3187         Copyright (C) 1992, by       AT&T, Room 3B202 |
    | att!cblph!wkb  or,     W.K. Brummett and AT&T      6200 E. Broad St. |
    | wkb@cblph.att.com       All rights reserved.      Columbus, OH 43213 |
    `----------------------------------------------------------------------'
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: ron@minnow.sp.unisys.com (Ron Burns)
Subject: Re: [M][R]  Reef aquarium lighting...  Ultralux 6500
Reply-To: ron@minnow.UUCP (Ron Burns)
Organization: Unisys Corporation
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 14:20:28 GMT

In article <1887@celia.UUCP> celia!steve@usc.edu (Steve Tyree) writes:
>In article <1992Sep2.213052.14309@minnow.sp.unisys.com> ron@minnow.UUCP (Ron Burns) writes:
>>	4. The 6500 K's are so superior that when the guy who owns Hamilton's
>>		saw them demo'ed, he sent a cashier's check for 100 bulbs.
>
> What makes this one bulb superior in spectrum quality to the Metal Halide
>and Actinic combination ?
>
> Steve Tyree - Reef Breeder

I guess I don't know for sure, but HE claims the spectrum more closely 
matches natural sunlight, and eliminates unnatural peaks, some of which
encourage hairy algae growth.  

I would feel a little guilty calling back and grilling him further, as my
budget is going to dictate VHO 50/50 florescents.  This leads to another
question. (of course!)

I have heard that 4 72 inch VHO's are adequate light for a 180 gallon reef.
Will 2 be enough for my 100 gallon? (I would build the hood to fit 4, but
install 2 initially)

If not, would two VHO's be adequate for the time after adding the live rock,
but before introducing any corals/anemonies (other than might show up on the
rock)?

-Ron Burns  AB, RTD/B, MAMPRAP 
           (Anemone Breeder, Reef Tank Designer/Builder, More And More Prolific
            Rec.Aquaria Poster!!!)             
-- 
Ron Burns              
Unisys Corporation                                      ...!rosevax!minnow!ron
Phone:(612)635-6927                           minnow%ron@rosevax.rosemount.com
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: chuck@cco.caltech.edu (Charles M. Higgins)
Subject: ??? Beginner questions ???
Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 17:03:10 GMT

   I have a small 5g saltwater tank with two clownfish (one american, one
african) and a small sea anemone which I just acquired.  I have a couple of 
questions:

        1) Does the anemone need a wide-spectrum light?  I have a standard
           $1.25 aquarium bulb right now.
        2) Clownfish and anemones are supposed to have an affinity for each
           other - the clownfish will play in the anemone's tentacles.  How 
           can I get my clownfish to try this?  Or should I just wait?

   Any other advice you could give me would be welcome.  Thanks for the help!


           Chuck Higgins, Caltech EE
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 16:54:03 EDT
From: <HCM100@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Hurricane Andrews Damage

I called a friend of mine living in Key West and he said that they got about
2 hours of rain and that's it.  The keys extend hundreds of miles south, and
the brunt of the hurricane was on the southernmost tip of florida (before
the keys start).

As far as reef damage goes, it hopefully won't be too bad.  As far as avail-
ability of rock and fish, that should stay about the same.  As far as
rebuilding Homestead and the surrounding areas, I wish them luck.

See ya,
| HANS C. MASING                   | A BAD ATTITUDE IS THE      |
| HCM100 @ PSUVM.PSU.EDU           | DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE     |
| MANAGEMENT INFORMATION SYSTEMS   | WAY I THINK AND THE WAY    |
| PENN STATE UNIVERSITY            | YOU THINK I SHOULD THINK.  |
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:6877 alt.aquaria:4777
From: mstephens.520@postman.gsfc.nasa.gov (mark stephens)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: Suggestions for a Long, Short Tank
Date: 28 Aug 92 13:13:14 GMT
Organization: nasa/gsfc

Why not tie the two tanks together? There are many options depending
on the specific setup you have.  The bonus tank becomes the sump.
But you can still put fish in there.  You  might simply put a submersable
pump capable of a good flow at 4' of head (Eheim ?) and use an overflow
box on the 55.  A large school of fish that like to live in strong 
water flow (and it won't be THAT strong) would look great.  Make it 
into a stream!

           mark

In article <1992Aug28.040614.8996@cbnewse.cb.att.com>, squizzy@cbnewse.cb.att.com (laura.h.fitzhenry) writes:
> 
> First of all I am not who the header says.  I am posting this from a 
> colleague's account.   I am:     
> 
> 		singlar@cbnewse.cb.att.com
> 
> My wife has been dying to set up a 55 gallon live-bearer tank, which,
> of course, is fine by me.  We thus ordered a 55 gallon tank along with
> a stand, some miscellaneous, and....  a "bonus tank" for the bottom
> shelf of her new stand.   I say "bonus" because we weren't planning
> on buying two tanks, rather, it sort of developed as a last-minute
> option which we both liked quite a bit since the price was alluring.
> 
> So the question remains, what to do with this unusually long, short
> tank which measures 48"x12"x12" (33 gallons).  We have considered
> using it for a freshwater catfish-only tank, a marine fish-only tank,
> or possibly for a semi-reef setup with one or two fish.
> 
> One drawback, of course is the fact that the tank is so low to the
> ground.  This makes maintenance more challenging and probably rules 
> out certain canister-type filters.
> 
> What would you do with a long, short tank that is close to the ground
> and has about fourteen inches, or so, of clearance at the top?  Moving
> it to a separate stand is not an option since floor space is limited.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 			-Steve Singlar
> 	           singlar@cbnewse.cb.att.com
> 			AT&T Bell Labs
> 			Naperville, IL
>         
> 
>
From: carl@crazyman.med.ge.com (Carl Crawford)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: hagen powerhead doesn't start after powerup
Date: 1 Sep 92 16:49:17 GMT
Reply-To: carl@crazyman.med.ge.com (Carl Crawford)
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Milwaukee,  WI

after i turn the power on to my tanks (after a water change)
some of my hagen powerheads (201's and 301's) do not start to run and
appear to be jammed. in order to get them going again i have to
disassemble them and/or bang them into the side of the tank. how can i
get them to restart after shutting off the power?
--
Carl R. Crawford	   Voice: 414-521-6572
GE Medical Systems	   Fax: 414-521-6575
P.O. Box 414, W-875	   Internet: crawfordc@med.ge.com
Milwaukee, WI 53201	   
From: booth@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (George Booth)
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 18:31:54 GMT
Subject: Re: Tetra CO2 System?  Lights?
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria

In rec.aquaria, wls@cray.csd.uwm.edu (Bill Stapleton) writes:

 I was surprised to see a Tetra CO2 injection system in the store last night.
 I didn't see much of it - They were apparently using it in a couple of tanks,
 but only the plastic "bells" inside the tank were visible.  I saw the "master
 kit", in a box, in a display case, with a $250 price tag.  That's about all I

  Anybody using this, or know much about it?  I assume it's very similar to the
  Dupla system?

The local store was tapped as the exclusive local retailer for the Tetra
system, but blew it off as soon as they saw it.  From what they said, 
it is a small CO2 canister (that only the Tetra retailer can refill),
a manual valve and a bell-jar like thing that you fill with CO2 via 
the valve whenever it needs filling (like 3 or 4 times a day).  A "test
kit" was also part of the set up (maybe an extra cost option).  

They have experience with CO2 (I taught'em everything they know :-) and
felt the system was a joke.  Too little, too manual, way too exepensive,
way too much trouble for them to refill. They tried the test kit - it said 
"too little" or "too much" and said their CO2 level (15 ppm) was "too much".  

The Dupla kit is *not* the same.  It can be attached to a real, U.S. style
CO2 bottle and uses a fairly sophisticated diffuser/check valve setup.  The
included "Continuous CO2 Test" shows "too little", "just right" or "too much"
but seems better calibrated than the Tetra version - and it stays in the
tank so just a glance will tell you what's up.  

You can get a much better set up than either of these for about $150 by
shopping welding supply stores and using a little Yankee ingenuity.

-------
George
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:6822 alt.aquaria:4747 sci.aquaria:1285
From: putzolu@toadflax.cs.ucdavis.edu (David Putzolu)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria,sci.aquaria
Subject: Fish + Reef Compatibility
Date: 27 Aug 92 05:56:05 GMT
Followup-To: rec.aquaria
Distribution: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of California, Davis

OK! I've finally decided to get a more reef-like tank, and plan
on beginning the switch as soon as the protein skimmer arrives
via mail-order. I want to do a last double check about which
of the fish that I currently have that I have to get rid of
(ie., which of the following fish would either not do well in
a reef type setting or would make the reef type setting do
poorly):
Royal Gramma: From what I've heard, this guy shouldn't be a
  problem. 
Sailfin Tang: His mouth looks very capable of nipping anemones
  and corals, but I've been told he wouldn't be bad - anyone
  agree/disagree?
Cleaner Wrasse: From his natural behavior I would think he would
  not have or pose any problems.
Hermit Crab: Probably should be gotten rid of - has anyone kept
  a hermit (or any other) crab in a tank with invertebrates,
  living rock, etc.? I like the little feller and have watched
  him molt once already.
Damsel fishes: Overly piggy eaters, a bit too violent as well,
  they will have to go, plus this will lighten the biological
  load significantly (there are 4 of them.)
So, if anyone could give me any last minute advice about the
above in respect to compatibility with live rock, coral, 
inverts, etc., I'd much appreciate. 

| David M. A. Putzolu               | putzolu@cs.ucdavis.edu            |
| Senior Undergraduate              | op disclaimer(opinion : ptr mine) |
| Computer Science and Psychology   |       Aiuto! Sono caduto e        |
| University of California at Davis |         non posso alzarmi!        |
From: cowan@aqua.ocunix.on.ca (D. Cowan (Postmaster))
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: selling young
Date: 28 Aug 92 21:36:30 GMT
Organization: The Aquarium, Ottawa, Ontario

patton@phy.uab.edu (David Patton) writes:

> How does one go about selling fish to the local pet stores. Those of you who
> have experience with selling back fry you have raised please respond. I am 
> having quite a bit of success breeding cichlids and would like to sell 
> the young. Any suggestions as to how to approach fish stores about buying
> them is appreciated. Thanks!!!

Call the target pet store and ask if they're interested in buying
whatever it is you're selling.  Make an appointment to bring them in.
Generally stores will give about 30-50% of what they can sell it for.


==============================================================================
                      cowan@aqua.ocunix.on.ca
  The Aquarium BBS  (613)736-1481  2400-14400 bps  V.32bis  V.42bis  HST
==============================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: shine@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (stephen.c.shine)
Subject: Re: Water changes
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 18:19:39 GMT

In article mstephens.520@postman.gsfc.nasa.gov (mark stephens) writes:
>... The
>ultimate solution is a tap to the house water 'n drain system.  Oh well...

I have a pretty good process for doing my water changes.  For supplying
water, I have a 50' or 75' length of potable-water hose.  I rigged an
adapter with an extra sink nozzle so that one end screws directly on 
one of my sinks.  The hose is long enough to reach all my tanks, including
the 20+ tanks in my basement.  To remove water from the tanks upstairs, 
I run a hose out the window and start up a siphon.  No wasted water, and
my wife's flowers LOVE me. ("Can you clean the 100-gal soon? The front
flower bed is dry.")

Most of the tanks in the basement are killies, so I drain from the tanks
individually into a 5-gal bucket into which I have an old dishwasher water
pump supply hose.  The dishwasher pump pumps the water into a 30' length
of 1/2" garden hose snaked through the joists to a standpipe in the 
basement.  I used to run this hose out to a flower bed through a basement
window, but I kept forgetting and leaving the darn thing open.
 
>          mark
-- 
Steve Shine
AT&T Bell Labs    (908)949-8517
att!hoqub!shine   att!cbnewsh!shine
My opinions, not my employers, not my fault, blah, blah, blah.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: tj@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Tom Johnson)
Subject: Help a beginner to set up a reef tank...
Originator: tj@kona.cs.ucla.edu
Organization: UCLA Computer Science Department
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 92 21:57:34 GMT

Hi-

I've gone thru the all the FAQ sheets and found the information 
contained therein very useful - now I hope I can discuss some of the
issues of filtration, etc... without sounding totally hopeless.

I'm willing to bet that a lot of what I'm about to ask has been gone
over here many many times before.  If there is an archive site where I
can access old *.aquaria discussions, just point me in the right direction
and I'll go thru it all myself.  If not, please be patient and offer a 
little advice to a beginner who really wants to learn.

A little background:  I have a bit of freshwater experience.  Nothing
outstanding - just your basic 20 gallon tank of tropical fish (Angels,
tetras, etc....).  I was just given a beautiful 55 gallon plexiglass
tank and I would like to set up a reef environment - some anemones,
clownfish, that sort of thing.  I'm starting from scratch, with the
exception of the tank and have to go out and buy all new filters, lights,etc..

I have lots of questions.   Here we go:

1.  What type of filtration system should I be considering?  What is 
    appropriate for reef tanks?  UGF?  Reverse UGF? Canister?
2.  According to the FAQ.beginner I want to turn over the water 3-5
    times per hour.  Do I simply look for something with a 150-250 gph
    rating?
3.  Lighting:  How much?  What type?
4.  Specific recommendations:  Brand names - what's reliable and what's trash?
    BestBuys?  
5.  How about some examples?  Would some of you who have reef tanks of
    this size (or a different size) be willing to describe your
    setup and equipment?

Pretend you're going shopping to setup a new 55 gallon reef tank.  What
would you buy?

Thanks-

   Tom


-- 
Tom Johnson             "They say Confucious does his crossword with a pen."
tj@cs.ucla.edu                               -Tori Amos
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria