From: u6404646@ucsvc.ucs.unimelb.edu.au
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Aussie classics #2
Date: 7 Oct 92 04:00:03 GMT
Organization: The University of Melbourne


Here is the second write-up of Australian climbing areas. This one is
courtesy of Tim Payne (tpayne@eleceng.adelaide.edu.au).
I have made one or two editorial changes, so don't blame Tim!

The previous post was Mt Arapiles (Victoria), to which I would like to add
the following: Arapiles "Ah-wrap-illies" _not_ "Arra-piles". It is named
after (surprise surprise) Mt Arapiles in Spain.
Anyone who wants this can send me email: u6409886@ucsvc.ucs.unimelb.edu.au
or reply to this post, u6404646@ucsvc.ucs.unimelb.edu.au

The next post will be (at some future time) Mount Buffalo (Vic) or
Booroomba Rocks (Australian Capitol Territory). Any other contributions
are welcome. I will be away climbing these areas for much of November, so
get those requests for the Arapiles post in soon!

Andrew Davies
Physics
Melbourne Uni

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Classic Australian Climbing Area #2: Moonarie (South Australia)

General Description:
(Rock, setting, location etc)

Moonarie forms part of the rim of Wilpena pound. Despite its appearance
it is not an enormous volcano or meteorite scar, but the remnant of an
eroded fold mountain belt. The peaks have been eroded away to leave
exposed quartzite bands.  Visually, it is quite striking, surrounded as
it is by an ancient landscape. Moonarie is 500 km north of Adelaide,
and the nearest towns are Wilpena 12 km (Caravan park, Supermarket,
Motel) and Hawker 30 km (Pub, Hospital, Supermarkets, Petrol Stations
etc.). The rock itself is contained within a national park, and is thus
the province of the state conservation and environment department.
There is a fair bit of wildlife at Moonarie, Kangaroos, birds of prey
and goats (The latter are a feral animal and should be obliterated, although
all shooting is prohibited in National Parks). All native
wildlife is protected by law, and _all_ snakes are likely to be (very)
poisonous. (This is almost a universal truth in Australia.)

Weather: Generally very good, but sometimes rain in Winter (Jun-July.)
In Summer almost entirely unlivable, due to the heat (often well over 40 C)
but there are a few gullies etc which provide some shade
to avoid this. The majority of climbing occurs over the Labor day
weekend, in early October, and over Easter; at almost any other time it
is quite possible that it will be deserted. In the winter the
temperature is warm enough for climbing as long as you stay in the sun,
but it can get chilly, especially in the shade, and at night.

Amenities:

There is nothing, at all. Water must be brought in, except in the rare
instances when the creek flows (I have never seen this, even during
Winter). Best to bring a shovel for burying excrement, since the
location is fragile and all impact should be minimized. The greatest
detriment to climbing at Moonarie is the 45 min walk in to the cliff,
which is by no means a gentle slope, and must often be done in
scorching temperatures. All garbage should of course be carried out.

Documentation:

The new Moonarie guidebook is just around the corner, (like the snakes,
this statement is also universally true in Australia), which is a good
thing because the old edition is out of print. The guidebook provides
details of the 350 or so climbs (!), as well as notes like those
above, and some photos of climbs/climbers, as well as some interesting
historical notes.

Note: The soon to be released guide is reputed to have Topos. There are
really only a few places where this will greatly aid route finding, and
in those places the topos will have to be very good to be of any use.
The description of a climb will be like (fictitious climb follows):

        RAINING HEXES (KEL'S CLIMB),  95m, 17 **

        A great climb with excellent protection, despite the name.

        Starts 4m to the right of the white tree above top camp, near
        the distinctive forked crack.

        (1) 40m 17 The crack, trending left to a small stance.
        (2) 45m 17 Up, through the widening crack and series of overhangs.

Sometimes there is more than this, but not much. It is sometimes a
challenge in itself to find the sucker you want to climb. If in doubt,
ask (although it is quite possible that you will be the only one
there). The "**" means a recommended/popular climb (Max. ***).

The climbing (at last):

The best word to describe this is fantastic. What do you want to
climb?  Moonarie has it (as long as you don't want slabs), most climbs
on the major buttresses are long and sustained with lots of exposure.
There are *** climbs in almost every grade, though there are very few climbs
on the major buttresses beneath grade 15, so Moonarie's isolation and
cliff size make this the wrong place to bring a beginner. The routes
are generally obvious, and distinctive, none of this contrived stuff
where you can step sideways onto an easy climb to escape, the described
routes are generally the easyest way up. Climbs go up to the high 20s
and there is plenty of hard stuff which has yet to be done.

The protection is almost all natural, although some climbs are bolted,
not much incentive to carry a hammer drill up the hill.  Note: bolts
here do not have fixed hangers.  You will need bolt plates. The
protection required for different climbs is varied, some require lots
of large pieces, ie no. 3 and 4 Camalots, and even BigBros, while
others require lots of small stuff. The cliff takes some getting used
to when placing protection, and a single balanced rack is generally
inadequate for certain climbs. Generally standing at the bottom you
have to decide which bits you will need, although sometimes the guide
may give some assistance. (On a long finger crack there is obviously no
point in taking the big Camalots and BigBros) The rock is almost
uniformly good, (If its not the guide book will say so) although due to
the infrequency of climb repetition there is some loose stuff on some
ledges which doesn't get cleaned up. There are no tourists here and the
cliff is unoccupied enough so that the only people you have to worry
about dropping rocks on are your climbing buddies.

Recommended climbs:

*** Hangover Layback 15, 100m  - An overhanging flake which leads to a
hand traverse and a roof.

*** Flying Buttress, 15, 100m - An awe inspiring overhanging offwidth crack.
                                                             ^^^^^^^^
*** Downwind of Angels, 19, 50m - A strenuous face and finger crack.

*** Cassablanca, 18, 100m - A great climb with overhangs, corners, roofs, ...

And lots, lots more.

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