HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: pburke@vms.macc.wisc.edu (Peter Burke, MIC, 608-263-7744)
Subject: Toyota 4Runner EFI question
Organization:  University of Wisconsin Academic Computing Center
Distribution:  usa
Date:  5 JAN 93 17:36:53    

I have a 4Runner with the 22R-TE engine (Turbo).  When I bought it 
(used) I had serious problems with fouled spark plugs causing the engine 
to stall.  I fixed this by changing wires, plugs and distributor cap.  
Lately I have noticed a slight roughness in the engine, similar to the 
electrical problems I had before, but less pronounced.  I had the 
electrical system checked out by a local dealer who said it was working 
fine.  Teh dealer suggested to use some special fuel additives that are 
meant to clean out the injection system.  THe idea behind that was that 
one of the injectors may not function properly and inject inaccurate 
amounts of fuel that then don't ignite and cause the slight stall one 
can perceive when the engine revs.  

Any opinions on this?  Is this a plausible explanation or just bull?  To 
me it still feels like an electrical problem.  How can I check the 
injection system?  Do I need an expert do the tune-up?  Usually I try to 
avoid the "experts", since they overcharge and don't seem to be all too 
knowledgable after all. 

Peter Burke                           | PBURKE@MACC.WISC.EDU 
Microcomputer Information Center      | PBURKE@Wiscmacc.BitNet
Madison Academic Computing Center     | 608-263-7744
1210 W. Dayton St., Madison, WI 53706 | 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: krc@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (kenton.cabiness)
Subject: Re: TH350 rebuild followup
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 19:38:16 GMT

In article <1993Jan5.222709.24906@mlb.semi.harris.com> jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger) writes:
>I am very glad you decided to share your experience with rebuilding your TH350.
>
>11   Were there any parts that when you took them out, they just sort of
>     exploded little pieces all over the place?
>
>- Not really, but the snap rings are a bit happy. Watch for the check balls
>  inside the valve body.   

I also thank you for posting your experiences, it has given me extra confidence
that it shouldn't be too difficult to do mine when I get to it (soon, soon).

One comment on this question.  When I was trying to decide whether to do my
own re-build or not, I decided to take an old trans. that I had laying around
(and YOU thought you had a big junk pile :-) apart to see how difficult I
thought it would be since I had never been into one before.  A couple of things
I saw that might be helpful.  First DO NOT drop the sprag clutch (a little
clutch deal, all mechanical with rollers and springs).  It comes out as
an assm. and will stay together, but I managed to drop it.  Rollers went
everywhere, springs deformed, etc.  Not a pretty picture.  I also had a
difficult time with getting the band out, but I don't remember exactly what
the problem was.

I plan to make sure that as I take the one I care about, to make sure that
I lay everything out the same way, just as it came out, so there won't be
any question on which way it came out (some of the parts didn't look real
obvious without a lot of thought).

One other bit of advice that was given to me by a friend that does it for
a living:  Spend a considerable amount of time cleaning the case (like ready
to eat off of) and have a very clean work environment before taking it apart.
This way you won't have to worry about keeping your hands free of debreis
(sp?) as you are working on it.

Kenton Cabiness
AT&T Bell Labs
krc@ihlpe.att.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: newark@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (antonio.cruz)
Subject: Re: Convert points -> electronic ignition?
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 01:54:26 GMT
Summary: Maybe


Converting an GM HEI distributor and ignition is possible.

In October, I was able to take used 77 Buick 350 (H engine)'s
HEI and place in a 74 Buick 350 (H engine). The 74 had points
and condensor (my abrev. P&C) system. The shaft has to be the 
same length and size with the gear teeth and lip (where your tighten down).

The 74 Buick model had an optional where you could have HEI or P&C. 
Could be true for Chevy's.

Timing will be a little off. You will need to do some wiring,
allowing power to the unit and for cranking. I can't remember
the setup, any more.

Try to match an the engine in the following years for
the used HEI.

Good Luck.

++++
TONY
++++
ajc@hlwpd.att.com
From: mgp@cbnewsb.cb.att.com (michael.g.petersen)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: AC Delco oil filters?
Date: 6 Jan 93 20:22:37 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T

In article <43654@gremlin.nrtc.northrop.com> jslee@nrtc.nrtc.northrop.com (John Lee) writes:
>
>  ... The PF47 is anti-drainback valved; the PF40 is not.  ...

GM specifies the use of the PF47 oil filter with thier 1988 Bonniville
with the 3800 V6. The threaded end is pointed straight upward.  Why
would this require an anti-drainback valve?

                                        Mike Petersen
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: cleaning solvents
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 4 Jan 93 19:14:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> Add a cooler to the exhaust stack and get recycled and distilled
-> degreaser.

 Sounds like a worthwhile proposition if I run the tank hot.


-> >  It apparently was filled with lacquer thinner before we got it.
-> (phew!)
> Sounds like a terrorist weapon to me.

 <grin>


-> Try tri-chlorethane.  Some shops call it carbo-trichlor.   It is a
-> non- flamable solvent frequently used in industrial degreasers.

 Is this a relative of carbon tetrachloride?  (high school chemistry was
loooong ago...)
                                                                                                       
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond)
Subject: Re: cleaning solvents
Date: Tue, 05 Jan 93 09:31:38 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.

dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)  writes:


> I'm not too partial to the idea of having thinner or gasoline fumes in
>my face when I lift the lid, and though my local fire department says
>it'd be OK since I have a tank with a lid and external vent, I'd sort of
>like to stay away from flammables, at least flammables on the order of
>kerosene, which isn't all that great for cleaning parts anyway.  (leaves
>an oily scum)

> Mainly, what I intend to clean is grungy car parts, after I scrape and
>wash off all the easy stuff.

Dave,

The ideal solvent - if you can store the thing outdoors because of 
the odor - is a cresylic acid-based heavy dip.  This is the same
stuff that comes in the dip cans of carb cleaner that smells like
an overdose of creosote.  When I used to work at the Volkswagen
shop, we had several dip tanks of the stuff.  Some local vendor came
around about once a month and topped off the tanks.  A layer of
water helped seal in the stench.  This stuff is *WUNDERFUL*.  An
old crusty piston or head will come out with the carbon literally
falling off.

John
-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC               |Interested in high performance mobility?  
Performance Engineering Magazine(TM) | Interested in high tech and computers? 
Marietta, Ga                         | Send ur snail-mail address to 
jgd@dixie.com                        | perform@dixie.com for a free sample mag
Need Usenet public Access in Atlanta?  Write Me for info on Dixie.com.
From: frank@marvin.contex.com (Frank Perdicaro)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 55 Chevy - No reverse
Date: 4 Jan 93 13:58:48 GMT
Organization: Xyvision Design Systems

In article <1993Jan4.110719.9701@panix.com> dannyb@panix.com (Daniel Burstein) writes:
>In <4220.88.uupcb@chaos.lrk.ar.us> dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)  writes:
>>-> I can put the transmission INTO reverse, but it just doesn't move
>>-> (engage?)  It as though it's still in neutral.  The car runs fine in
>> Most likely, your shift rod fell off, or the lever on the side of the
>>trans fell off.  Put it back on.
>
>Your car probably has the original ranking order for an automatic 
>transmission, namely: P-N-R-D-H-L
>  rather than todays: P-R-N-D-H-L
>now for today's question: three no-prizes to the first person who can tell
>me when the switch was made to PRNDL...

Must have been in the late 50s.  My wife's step father has a good
story about exploding parts of his father's Caddilac when he was young, 
due to the change.

f
i
l
l
e
r
f
i
l
l
e
r
f
i
l
l
e
r
-- 
	 Frank E Perdicaro, Systems Admin, etc.		Xyvision Color Systems
      Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.		101 Edgewater Drive
   inhouse: frank@marvin, x5572				Wakefield MA
outhouse: frank@contex.com, 617-245-4100x5572		018801285
From: edelman@math.berkeley.edu (Alan Edelman)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Auto Theft
Date: 10 Jan 1993 08:41:20 GMT
Organization: U.C. Berkeley Math. Department.
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: math.berkeley.edu


   Why would somebody breaking into my car be looking in my glove
compartment?  Today as I was walking back to my parked car, I noticed
someone was in the car in the driver's seat looking through the
glove compartment.  Do people usually leave valuables, keys,
or guns in there or is this a good way to hot wire my '90 Honda Civic? 
If you are curious, we scared him away, nothing was taken, and there
were no visible signs of damage.
From: vines@blacks.jpl.nasa.gov (Ken Vines)
Subject: Fiero problem
Organization: Image Analysis Systems Group, JPL
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 19:58:34 GMT

After installing a new distributer cap, rotor and sparkplug wires,
my '85 fiero V6 will not start. It cranks OK, got spark on the
wires, but no luck starting. I was careful to not switch the
sequence of the wires, but now I'm beginning to wonder.

The front (trunk-side) bank is 1-3-5, the rear is 2-4-6 and the
firing order is 1-2-3-4-5-6 according to the shop manual. I cant
be sure which terminal on the distributer is 1 since the timing
mark is wore off and its not mentioned in the manual.

The stock cap has a 2 printed at one of the terminals, that is the
only indication of the starting order. Am I right?
I doubt I was able to twist the distibuter shaft while removing the
rotor. The ignition module connections are fine.

It's also possible something got disconnected, but everything looks
OK. Do I need to remove the battery terminal to reset the computer?
Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks in advance...

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rvn@icd.teradyne.com (Rafael Vidaillet)
Subject: HELP! (many)Nicks in Paint
Reply-To: rvn@icd.teradyne.com
Organization: Teradyne, Inc. Boston MA
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 18:57:40 GMT

	Well, it happened!  My 8-month old 92' Eagle Talon is new no more.
I was driving in a cross-country trip these holydays (Boston -> Colorado)
and the car paint was destroyed.  I was driving along I-80 when all of the
sudden this dump-truck opened up and started trowing pebbles into the road.
I assume this was for ice control.  Anyways my car was showered in the stuff
before I could get away. 

	My hood is now full of hundreds of nicks.  The car is black and the
metallic/white nicks are VERY visible.  I have decided not no paint the car 
since I know it will just keep on happening, winters in New Englad are very
hard on cars.  So I have to 'fix it' so it is not as obvious...

	Has anyone had any experience with any products to 'fix' (cover-up)
the nicks? I was planing on:
	1. Place coat of Primer
	2. Paint black
	3. Add clear-coat
	4. Use rubbing compound to smooth it out.
	5. Probaly get a bra (kind of late.. :-( ) to coverup the worst part of the
		hood....
		
	Please if anyone has done this before and gotten good results I would appreciate 
any help possible... Also were can I get the right stuff (primer, paint, clearcoat, etc.)
Does anyone know of a book on how to do this kind of repair?

	Thanks...
	
	_RV

---
 ______________________________________________________________________
/                                                                      \
| Rafael Vidaillet--MS: H71|   Internet:  rvn@dewey.icd.teradyne.com   |
| Teradyne Inc.            |                              _            |
| 321 Harrison Ave.        |   Voice:   (617) 422-2422   |_) \  /      |
| Boston, Ma. 02118        |   Fax:     (617) 422-2837   | \  \/       |
\______________________________________________________________________/



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: welchb@woods.ulowell.edu
Subject: Re: 55 Chevy - No reverse
Organization: University of Lowell
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 19:51:21 GMT

In article <pjay.328b@terapin.com>, pjay@terapin.com (Paul Arnold) writes:
> Until the other day, this car ran perfect.   I had come home from the store,
> and put the car into reverse to back it into place, and the car went nowhere.
> I can put the transmission INTO reverse, but it just doesn't move (engage?)  It
> as though it's still in neutral.  The car runs fine in drive (hi and low), and
> shifts just fine.

I had the same problem, many years ago, with a '51 Chev.  After receiving
dire reports of how much it would cost to replace the transmission, I
fixed it myself by simply adjusting the linkage.  It was similar to the
linkage of a bathroom sink drain, with a rod going thru a clamp, with a 
thumbscrew.

Incidentally, it was a couple of experiences like this, where the professionals
insisted they were right, and I in my naivete still wondered, and then found
out that I was correct and they were wrong ...   which started me on my
"career"  of slowly trying bigger and bigger jobs, and learning (in a
small way) about cars.
-- 
Brendan Welch, UMass/Lowell, W1LPG,  welchb@woods.ulowell.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: GMC S-15 Jimmy Head Gasket
From: fuchs@local.host
Date: 11 Jan 93 15:47:53 -0600
Reply-To: fuchs@local.host
Distribution: usa
Organization: Organization, City, State, etc.

In article <1993Jan11.140004.16790@porthos.cc.bellcore.com>, 5121cal@troy.cc.bellcore.com (leising,christopher a) writes:
>Hi,
>
>My 1985 S-15 GMC Jimmy (2.8L V6) has been using about a quart of coolant 
>per week (approx. 200 miles) for the last month or so. I'm thinking 
>head gasket, as I'm seeing gas bubbles in the coolant in the radiator 
change the gaskets on both heads and on the intake.  I had an 83 s-15   
jimmy that the intake gasket let go on and the antifreeze went into the oil.
 only cost a grand to get it running again - about the same mileage as yours and
also the same time of year.
From: arango@farad.electrical (Juan Arango)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Mystery Engine Code!
Date: 11 Jan 93 17:26:01 GMT
Reply-To: arango@farad.electrical
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.

>>     anyone know why a computer would spit a code that doesn't exist?

>   Computers in general are nortorious for spitting out wierd stuff when
>   they get confused.

     Sometimes the 'computer' (microprocessor + program) is built for the top of the line, and use in simpler systems.  I have an RCA TV that is not suppossed to give me the time.  Its a plain XL-100 from 1987.  Twice in the last year after unplugging/plugging somewhere else, it gives me the time on the screen.  The problem is, I have no way to change the time settings, and when I try to unplug it, and plug it at exactly 12:00, the time goes away!

     I also have a Technics dual deck that has 'pause' for the recording deck only, but you can use pause on the other deck by using the remote control for the receiver.

     All of this means to me that the computer may just be giving you the right code... but the conditions for doing so should not have happenned in your car.

---
               Juan Diego Arango Arango

     "f u cn rd ths, u cn gt a gd jb n cmptr prgrmmng."
From: carlos@atherton.com (Carlos Chang)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Won't start when wet. (jeepster)
Date: 10 Jan 93 22:11:35 GMT
Organization: Atherton Technology, Inc.
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]

I've got a 72 Jeepster w/232 motor.  Whenever it rains heavily, my jeepster
won't start.  Turns over but it doesn't sound like ignition is occuring.
Can anyone suggest areas to check for moisture that could keep her from
starting.  I'm thinking about going over( by guessing) the electrical 
system and dabbing some silicone junk or spray over the areas that might
get wet.  Is this dangerous?  As you can tell, I'm not too knowledgeable
about this so your suggestions/advice is very much appreciated.  Gotta get
this fixed before attempting a run to tahoe.(snow)

-Carlos
 carlos@atherton.com
From: pnkerton@hpindda.cup.hp.com (Phil Pinkerton)
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 01:20:50 GMT
Subject: Smokin Audi NOT no POWER!
Organization: HP Information Networks, Cupertino, CA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

Suprise!! Got an Audi 5000 that smoked pretty bad
 thought it was the turbo BUT, when I removed the
 turbo the exhaust port was full of ANTI-FREEZE!!!
 so I replaced the HEAD-GASKET and the SMoking seems
 to have gone away BUTTTTTTTT. NOW somehow this first
 time Audi Person put something back-on wrong!! CUZ
 now I only GET 2200 RPM max FULL Throttle. OK WHAT??
 a vacuum line ??? or did I really screw-UP ?? maybe
 I clogged the injectors?? HELP the manuals I have DO"T

 Phil
 pnkerton@hpindda.cup.hp.com


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bowmanj@csn.org (Jerry Bowman)
Subject: Re: Fiero problem
Organization: University of Colorado Boulder, OCS
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 21:33:18 GMT

In article <vines.726436714@blacks.jpl.nasa.gov> vines@blacks.jpl.nasa.gov (Ken Vines) writes:
>After installing a new distributer cap, rotor and sparkplug wires,
>my '85 fiero V6 will not start. It cranks OK, got spark on the
>wires, but no luck starting. I was careful to not switch the
>sequence of the wires, but now I'm beginning to wonder.
>
>The front (trunk-side) bank is 1-3-5, the rear is 2-4-6 and the
>firing order is 1-2-3-4-5-6 according to the shop manual. I cant
>be sure which terminal on the distributer is 1 since the timing
>mark is wore off and its not mentioned in the manual.
>
>The stock cap has a 2 printed at one of the terminals, that is the
>only indication of the starting order. Am I right?
>I doubt I was able to twist the distibuter shaft while removing the
>rotor. The ignition module connections are fine.
>
>It's also possible something got disconnected, but everything looks
>OK. Do I need to remove the battery terminal to reset the computer?
>Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks in advance...
>

     If your not sure you got the wire back in the same places, I 
    would pull my #1 spark plug, put my thumb over the hole and
    have someone tap the starter till the compression tries to
    blow your thumb off the hole. Bring the timing mark up toTDC,
    it should be close. Then pull your dist. cap and it will be pointing 
    to the terminal that should be #1. Good Luck!
From: zrol01@trc.amoco.com (Richard O. Lindsay)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: cleaning solvents
Date: 4 Jan 93 15:24:49 GMT
Reply-To: zrol01@trc.amoco.com
Organization: Amoco Production Company, Tulsa Research

In article uupcb@chaos.lrk.ar.us, dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)  writes:
>
> "On the twelfth day of Christmas, my true love gave to me..."
>
> I'm now the happy owner of a solvent tank.  My wife picked it up at a
>company auction for $40.  It's made of 1/8 steel plate with a
>counterbalanced lid and even has provision for a 6" vent stack.

Add a cooler to the exhaust stack and get recycled and distilled degreaser.

>  It apparently was filled with lacquer thinner before we got it.  (phew!)

Sounds like a terrorist weapon to me.

>It holds approximately 50 gallons. (200 liters)
>
> For some reason it doesn't have a drain plug, which I will remedy
>before I put it into use.  The question is, what do I put in it?  It
>will be primarily used for cleaning cylinder heads and engine blocks.
>I could get some appropriate heating elements if required, but I'd just
>as soon use it cold.
>

Try tri-chlorethane.  Some shops call it carbo-trichlor.   It is a non-
flamable solvent frequently used in industrial degreasers.  Works well
cold.  Works wonderfully hot.  And as an additional bonus, you get to own
your own little section of the polar ozone hole!  What a deal!!!
 
> There are, so far as I know, no local environmental restrictions on
>solvents.
>                                                                                                         

Rick

------------------------------------------------------------
     Richard O. Lindsay        /     __  __      __  __
  Senior Research Scientist   /   / /_/ /_  / / /_/ /_/
  Amoco Production Research  /   / / / /_/ /_/ / / / \
                            / /_/
                           /
My opinions are my own, until they're worth something, at
which point they become the property of my employer...
------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: lilley@epcot.spdc.ti.com (Shannon Lilley)
Subject: TEST
Organization: TI Semiconductor Process and Design Center
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 15:27:24 GMT

Sorry this is a test.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Steven J Orlin)
Subject: Re: shocking car
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1993 00:52:31 GMT

In article <RwX3wB1w165w@west.darkside.com> clone@west.darkside.com (Clone) wri
tes:
>My car sometimes shocks me when I get out of it. How can I prevent
>this(other than not getting out)?

Does it call you an idiot?

-had to say that.
no offense, and sorry for the wastage.
-- 
"If I wanted your criticism....it was in my former life."
Steven J Orlin                   /\  /\  /\  /\  /\  /\
sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu/  \/  \/  \/  \/  \/  \
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Mystery Engine Code!
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 9 Jan 93 21:07:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> I daydream about fusing two Buick V6s into a V12 and
-> stuffing it into a chopped '53 Buick Super...
-> Am I sick or what?

 Thoroughly.  BTW, it wouldn't be particularly hard - Morse even makes a
coupler that takes care of the alignment problem.


 Now, if you were to join two Jag V12s and stuff them into a Pinto, THAT
would be sick...
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Oxygenated Gasoline and Low MPG (super unleaded?)
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 5 Jan 93 00:46:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> but cause a loss in mileage.  Does the emission improvemnet offset
-> the gas mileage decrease?  I guess what I am asking is what is the
-> comparision between  emissions/MILE of each of these fuels?  This
-> seems to be more pertinent than idle emissions for each.

 That depends, of course, in what you're burning the gick in.  For a
late model car in good tune there's not much difference.
                                                    
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech