HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: dali@stein.u.washington.edu (David A. Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Carbs vs Fuel Injection
Date: 8 Jan 1993 05:15:18 GMT
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
NNTP-Posting-Host: stein.u.washington.edu

In article <1if1qmINN259@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy) writes:
>
>the AFC FI on my bus (can't remember which "-tronic" it is) is FAR simpler
>and easier than the earlier electronic FI systems which were used as early
>as '68 on the type III's.
>
Yes, the Type III version is more complicated, but there are many many
Type IIIs still on the road, a testimony to the longevity of the Bosch
system.  My 1970 Squareback's engine was rebuilt about 7,000 miles ago,
and has new fuel injectors.  It runs very very well, has great power
off the line, and great hill climbing capability.  I like the power curve
more than that of the '72 Bug I drove in high school.

David

>YMMV.
>Bill
>-- 
>William Claspy		Case Western Reserve University
>wpc@po.cwru.edu


-- 
"There are hundreds of tiny balls in every machine, and hundreds of machines
in every pachinko parlour, and a pachinko parlour on every block in every
town in Japan; so there are billions of little balls falling forever, like a
chromium-plated hailstorm that never melts."  - from "Clive James in Japan"
From: jimk@slc.com (Jim Kenney)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Beetle carb help
Date: 4 Jan 93 21:08:49 GMT
Article-I.D.: slc.1993Jan4.210849.2894
Distribution: usa
Organization: Servio Corp, Beaverton Oregon, US

I need some fuel system help (I think).

I have a (mostly) 1976 Beetle (non-super) that is supposed to have
fuel injection.  During the 100k rebuild (about 10k ago) done by
a real mechanic for the previous owner the ENTIRE fuel injection system
was pulled off and replaced with a 34 PICT-3 carb of unknown ancestry.
Unfortunately the exhaust system's pre-heaters for the fuel was NOT
changed so I have only a jerry rigged system to put a little warm air
into the air cleaner.

(Pause to let the laughter die down)
I know, but the car was cheap.


I have a few  questions:

1) If I stop very quickly the engine's RPMs will drop and the engine may
   die.  This is more of a problem going down a hill than up a hill.
   (yes I do push in the clutch pedal).  Do I have a float valve problem? 
   Do I need a carb rebuild?

2) I have to set the idle up higher than I like so the engine won't die
   die when I stop.  The idle does not want to stay at a single value
   but will change without notice by several hundred RPM.  Is this because
   the fuel preheat is not hooked up?  The fuel mix SEEMS OK (no carbon
   fouling on the plugs) but I am getting only 17 to 18 miles/gallon
   on the highway.  The State of Oregon emissions folks do frown a bit
   over my hydrocarbon emission levels.

3) Should I put a carb-compatable exhaust on this thing (some of the exhaust
   system has some spots rusted through) or just wait and sell this beast
   to some dune buggy builder next year?

This is my cheap-to-buy 50 mile round trip commuter car and I would like to
keep it going for another year.  I have the Hayes book and the "How to keep
Your Volkwagen Alive" book by Muire (sp?) and they are no help here.
(These are very good other problems and I highly endorse them.)


Any advise gratefully accepted (but I already know I am crazy so I already
know I need my head examined).


Thanks


Jim Kenney     jimk@slc.com
From: igk@provax.intel.com (Ilya G. Kovnatsky)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: [A] 68 Conv.
Date: 6 Jan 93 19:38:00 GMT
Organization: Intel Corporation
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41


 Hi Folks,
	Two weeks ago I purchased a 68 Conv Bug ( $300), the gentleman
I purchased the car claims that the car ran juast a week before
bought it, that is until the floor pan rusted out under the battery, which
fell out and yanked several thick wires from under the seat. (OOPS)
	Well, restoration has been moving along nicely - I removed all the
fenders, interior, and the rusted floor pans. Purchaced a couple of floor
pans and started welding them in. Unfortunately the side members of the frame 
were all rotted out, soo... I welded some 16 Guage Sheet metal to the top of the
indentation in the floor pan( where the bolts go), bent the Sheet metal up 
and welded that to the metal which is above the heater chanel. Then welded
another strip this time on the inside of the car, between the same piece 
which covers the heater chanel to the floor pan. The doors seem operational
and close well.
	Question ??? Will this hold , or will my car fall appart while 
I am doing 65 on the highway ???
	
	I also discovered that the car has an autostick. Has anyone had any 
good or bad experience with an autostick?? Is it possible to convert the car
to a normal gearbox ?? ( I like to do everything myself)



 Ilya Kovnatsky.     		  ! 68 VW Convertable    86 Porsche 944
 Internet : IGK@provax.intel.com  ! 86 Honda Rebel       195 Rosignol 7s
 Voice: 1-609-936-7436            

	 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: acuff@CAMIS.Stanford.EDU (Richard Acuff)
Subject: Re: Carbs vs Fuel Injection
Organization: Stanford University, California, USA
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 23:13:33 GMT

My $.02 worth.  When I finally took apart my 126,000 mile 2-liter '78
bus engine and found out how bad it was in there (two cracked heads,
badly scarred bearings, plugged hydraulic lifters, etc.), I thought
"Gee, it's pretty damn amazing that the FI was able to keep this thing
running at all."  Pretty much up to the end it would start and idle on
the first try, though power was down.

In the end, the FI components were about the only ones I didn't
replace or refurbish.  It works great today, despite (as he wipes egg
from face) the embarrassing incident with the diesel fuel.  (well, the
nozzle fit in the hole...)

I like the FI on my bus.  Though nothing has broken, the components
look like they'd be easy to diagnose and replace, and there's very
little to adjust, so adjusting is very easy.

	-- Rich

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: eldred@rrunner.jpl.nasa.gov (Dan Eldred)
Subject: Re: Carbs vs Fuel Injection
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 17:39:28 GMT

In article <1993Jan6.203647.6948@pony.Ingres.COM> garrett@Ingres.COM (WHEN ALL ELSE FAILS, READ THE INSTRUCTIONS) writes:
>In article <1993Jan6.154258.7982@nntp.nta.no>, BARANSKI@veamf1.nusc.navy.mil (Jim Baranski)                writes...
>>How do people feel about Carburators vs. Fuel Injection?  I'm trying to make an
>>informed decision on the merits and flaws of each...
>
>I've never owned a FI car. But from what I understand, as long as everything
>is working then FI is the way to go. But when something breaks (and everything
>breaks eventually), then you would want a carb.
>
I disagree.  You can fix FI by replacing components.  You can also diagnose
FI problems more easily.  For example, you know an injector is bad if the
spray pattern is uneven.  You can test the function of the warmup regulator
and the accumulator using a pressure gauge.  You can check other sensors
such as mass air flow meters with simple gauges, and most cars now adays
even have self diagnostics in the computer which will tell you what's wrong
(even the computer itself).  Furthermore, you can replace these individual
components.  What's more, with an oxygen sensor you have the means to adjust
the mixture at home, and the FI system can adapt to changing engine parameters.

In contrast, you really can't do much to a carburettor which has gone bad
except replace broken diaphrams and do some superficial cleaning.
Internal orifices which have changed size
due to erosion or deposits cannot be restored easily to spec.  In general you
have to replace the whole thing and you rarely know specifically what went
wrong.  And the home mechanic doesn't have the means to properly adjust the
carb.

>>Which is better, High Tech, or Low Tech?
>> 
>Since I'm poor, low tech. 

Priced a carb lately?  

	- Dan
From: tgpt_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Tom Guptill)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: [W] What's up with that...
Date: 6 Jan 93 15:49:51 GMT
Organization: University of Rochester - Rochester, New York


	My Mom's Jetta doesnt' have a trunk light, but when you turn on the
lights I beleive that the plate light shines into the trunk.  Could this be
it?

Tom.  (Who turns on his lights and yanks out a taillight when he wants to
see inside the back of his Rabbit.)

-- 
| Tom Guptill           | tgpt_ltd@cc.rochester.edu (internet) |
| CPU Box 277445 U of R | tgpt_ltd@uordbv (bitnet)             |
| Rochester NY 14627    |                                      |
| (716) 274-0156        |                                      |
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: dlbradle@jhawk.b30.ingr.com (Doug Bradley)
Subject: Re: [A] '71 Super has CO trouble
Keywords: Grommets, engine compartment seal, pre-heated air hose
Reply-To: dlbradle@jhawk.b30.ingr.com.
Organization: Systems Communications, Intergraph Corp.
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 22:15:16 GMT

In article <1993Jan4.182324.5034@zia.aoc.nrao.edu>, troberts@zia.aoc.nrao.edu (Timothy Roberts) writes:
|> Hey, Folks!
|> 	I have the joy of breathing Carbon Monoxide everytime I drive
|> my '71 Super Bug.  My heater boxes are brand new.  My engine is
|> freshly rebuilt and runs like a top.  I can't smell a thing.  But when
|> I move this little wonder from point A to B, I get wacked out.  I yawn
|> a lot and clench my teeth involunterily.  I lose track of my velocity.
|> All for free!!  I assume this is because I don't have an engine
|> compartment seal, hot air hose grommets, and pre-heated air hose. Why?
|> Because the seal rotted away and the grommets and air hose didn't
|> exist when I purchased the car.  Sooo...  
|> 

You might get one of those CO testers where the dot turns brown or something.
Would confirm that it CO and not something else wacking you out 8-)

|> Questions:
|> 1) The pre-heated air hose slips onto the oil-bath air cleaner
|> housing, goes through the tin rear engine cover and goes WHERE?  I
|> can't find a place to attach the other end.

Originally, there was a metal piece with a "scoop" on the other end to 
collect warm air off the cylinders and feed to the carb

|> 2) The old engine compartment seal is rotten and very hard.  I can't
|> see a way to replace it.  I was told a new one costs a mere $8.95 and
|> I was told "you just remove the rear engine cover."  Huh?

If you're talking about the seal which is about 1-1/4 inches wide, this is
best replaced with the engine out. Not difficult to do then ;-(

|> 3) Why does my bug blow fumes even when the heater boxes are closed?
|>

Are the flaps truly closed? By that, I mean can you close them *from under
the car*. may have to disconnect the heater cables?

A few other thoughts. The shortest route for exhaust gases into the car is through
the heater boxes. Seems like you'd smell exhaust, too. If this was rebuilt with
new heater boxes, were the heaters bolted on tight to the heads? Sounds like
an exhaust leak, and not due to an engine compartment seal or pre-heater.

Is the muffler tight and pipes extending well out the back?
  
This is a heck of a problem. CO is nothing to play with!
Good luck,
doug
From: wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: [W] What years for heater core problem?
Date: 8 Jan 1993 17:23:00 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: thor.ins.cwru.edu


Hey now, all you watercooled folks!

I have a buddy who's shopping for cabriolets and he didn't even know about
the heater core problem!  Needless to say, I told him to get receipts to
show that the core had been replaced.  What year did they solve the
problem?  i.e. what year cars should he be concerned that they have new
heater cores?

Thanks!
Bill
-- 
William Claspy		Case Western Reserve University
wpc@po.cwru.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: doug@ulysses.att.com (G. Douglas Humphrey[drew])
Subject: Re: New Passat in Europe
Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1993 19:01:31 GMT
Reply-To: doug@ulysses.att.com
Organization: AT&T Bell Labs, Murray Hill, NJ
Keywords: New Passat model

In article <pebi.726466607@sirocco.aem.umn.edu>, pebi@aem.umn.edu (Peter A. Bidian) writes:
|> I saw pictures of a new Passat in a german newspaper. It is supposed
|> to come in August (if I remember well). It has big headlights and a
|> grille. The back looks a little bit like a Volvo.
|> 
|> Peter
|> 

Okay all you rumor mongers, is VW due to replace the Passat in the '94 model year?

I was all excited about the '93 Passat GLX and ran down to my local dealer only to
discover that this wonderful car has motorized belts-from-hell instead of AirBags.
(If not for this flaw I would have traded my '90 Corrado(also with BFH!) in on one
by now.) The test drive was wonderful. For a sedan with it's interior room (read BIG)
this car handles and accelerates very well. I hope the replacement maintains the
personality of the current car and gets AirBags for both front passengers.

- Doug

PS- Does anyone know if there are Performance chips available for VR6 equipped cars?

    G. Douglas Humphrey              |  Internet Email: doug@ulysses.att.com  
    AT&T Bell Laboratories           |  UUnet Email: ..!uunet!ulysses!doug    
    600 Mountain Avenue, MH 7B-511B  |  Office Phone: (908)582-6473           
    Murray Hill, New Jersey 07974    |  Office FAX:   (908)582-2456           
+------------------------------------+----------------------------------------+
|       Imagination is more important than knowledge. -Albert Einstein        |
| Imagination is the one weapon in the war against reality. -Jules deGaultier |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Disclaimer:  Any resemblance between the above views and the views of my    |
|          employers, or the view out of my window are purely coincidental... |
+------------------------------------+----------------------------------------+
From: db6j+@andrew.cmu.edu (Douglas S. Brashear)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: '74 Super...Carb Adj.
Date: 6 Jan 93 08:11:01 GMT
Article-I.D.: andrew.UfGm2pq00Uh_A2b5Vt
Organization: Junior, English, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA

Thanks to everyone who answered my valve question...yes, I'm gonna do it!
Okay, this is the last question!
On my carb, there are basically 3 adjustment screws (34-pict-3...I think)

1-idle adjustment screw
2-bypass screw (large)
3-mixture adj screw

my question- if I turn the mixture adj. screw counterclockwise, does
that add more oxygen (less gas) or vice versa.

what does the bypass screw do?

Thanks much in advance!
-DOUG
db6j+@andrew.cmu.edu 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: Re: (w) speedometer is jumpy
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 12:30:49 GMT

In article <C0o39D.9C3@acsu.buffalo.edu>, v129qp43@ubvmsd.cc.buffalo.edu (Hugh Jarvis - Anthropology Dept.) writes:
>Anyone else have a speedo needle that is not all that steady?
>Mine tends to be a little jumpy at various speeds, mostly higher
>ones.  I thought it might relate to tire bounce/spin ie. uneven
>speed due to slippage in front tires....  but I wonder if it
>may be something in the cable or the speedo itself.  Anyone
>have any experience here?   Thanks.
>  Hugh Jarvis C129QP43@UBVM

Check to see if the cable is bent at any sharp angles. Another
possibility is that the grease inside of the cable is starting
to dry up and binding the cable. Pull the cable off of the 
back of the speedo and shoot some WD40 down it.

Ric
From: jpt@telecaster.think.com (James P. Taylor)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: 88 VW Jetta fan replacement
Date: 12 Jan 93 09:01:55
Organization: Thinking Machines Corporation, Cambridge MA, USA
Distribution: na
NNTP-Posting-Host: telecaster.think.com
In-reply-to: cmk@gpu.utcs.utoronto.ca's message of Mon, 11 Jan 1993 20:28:08 GMT

In article <C0pI6w.Ez0@gpu.utcs.utoronto.ca> cmk@gpu.utcs.utoronto.ca (Chiu Kwong) writes:
   Lines: 9

     My 88 Jetta heat/AC fan is dying (making awful noise when cold).   How  
   easy/difficult is it to replace ?   The dealer wants Can$500 for the work, I am
   sure it can be done alot cheaper by myself.            Any information will be
   appreciated.

I have 88 Jetta GL with AC.

I did the work myself, and I am not talented.  The part from my local VW
dealer was $130US.  

It took about 2 hours labor.  The major hassle is taking apart the lower
dash.  My Jetta has the knee restraint bar rather than 3 point belts.  The
Bentley was not particularly useful [or needed] in determining disassembly
procedures.  However, at one point it looked like I was going to have to
remove the upper dash to get the fan out of its mounting postion.  It would
come out 3/4 of the way and the frame would hit the upper dash.  I loosened
the upper dash connections to the frame and was able top pry the upper dash
enough to slip the fan out.  

If that technique is frowned on by the dealer [and it quite well might be,
as I came close to snapping the upper dash] and (s)he would remove the
upper dash to remove the fan, then the labor would be quite a bit more.

good luck

jim taylor Thinking Machines Corp Cambridge MA
From: ti@bazooka.amb.org (Ti Kan)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: [W] '87 Fox Exhaust Manifold & OXS
Date: 8 Jan 93 06:49:02 GMT
Reply-To: ti@bazooka.UUCP (Ti Kan)
Organization: AMB Research Labs, Sunnyvale, CA.

In article <1319@blue.cis.pitt.edu> vka+@pitt.edu (Vishnu K Agrawala) writes:
>
>Hi!
> Thanks to those of you who responded to my question last month about
>how to remove an OXS. Unfortunately, I haven't tried any of the
>methods yet (drilling, etc.). I think the most feasible solution at
>this point would be to replce the exhaust manifold (sans OXS) and put
>in the new oxs, loaded with anti-seize :-). 
>
>The dilemna I have is this: My '87 Fox has a 1.8l (1781cc) engine,
>LONGITUDINALLY mounted.{Does this use the same exhaust manifold as a
>1.8l in any other [W] VW? That is, can I go to a junkyard and pick out
>a manifold out of an A2 Jetta of Golf and expect it to go on? Any
>thoughts on this? Please reply by e-mail.

No.  The VW Fox does share the same engine configuration as the Audi
4000 (4-cylinder), VW Dasher, Audi Fox, VW Quantum (4-cylinder).  The
exhaust manifold out of one of these cars should work, but make sure
you get the right one (there are a couple of different varieties,
some with single outlet, others with dual outlets, some with OXS
mounting and others without).  Also, check the manifold-to-downpipe
flange to make sure the angle is right.  My Audi 4000 is now running
with a VW Dasher exhaust manifold mated with the Techtonics 2-into-1
downpipe designed for the VW Fox.  Neat huh?

-Ti
-- 
    ///  Ti Kan                vorsprung durch technik
   ///   AMB Research Laboratories, Sunnyvale, CA. USA
  ///    ti@amb.org
 //////  ...!{decwrl,synopsys,tandem,tsoft,ultra}!sgiblab!bazooka!ti
///      ...!{uunet,sun,apple,sco}!altos!bazooka!ti
From: beorn@elk.Berkeley.EDU (Beorn Johnson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: What's up with that...
Date: 6 Jan 1993 00:13:13 GMT
Organization: UC Berkeley
Distribution: world
Reply-To: beorn@berkeley.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: elk.berkeley.edu

"<2884203EC400@sscl.uwo.ca>" (some guy without a name)
in <2884203EC400.2.0@sscl.uwo.ca>:
-  Why is it that the radio does not go off with the key?  [ . . . ]

My '92 Jetta has the radio with the security feature that disables the
radio when power to it (the radio) goes out (like when it's removed from
the car).  You can't connect it to a switched source or you would have to
punch in the security code every time you turned the ignition.

-  The light in my trunk... 
 . . . The trunk light only works while 
-  the headlights are on.

Weird.  Works normal for me.

-  But not quite as crazy as the gear shift.  Reverse... what's up with that?  
-  What is wrong with the standard five-speed pattern that the rest of the 
-  world uses.  [ . . . ]

No complaints here.

	Beorn Johnson
	(beorn@ic.berkeley.edu)
From: 9222774@ul.ie
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re:Splitting this Group...NOT
Date: 6 Jan 93 11:54:22 GMT
Organization: University of Limerick, Ireland

Niall Behan, University of Limerick, Ireland.

 I Agree with Josh, I think the group should stay togeather. There are alot
of experienced air cooled V-dub veterans out there currently driving 
waterpumpers who can provide invaluble advice.

    However It would be nice if we could have more air cooled people
    writing in.

        I vote not to split, but for a compromise, for a world
        in which all V-dub owners can live togeather in harmony
 
             
       I vote not to split, but for a compromise, for a world
       In which all V-dub owners can live togeather in harmony!!

              Excuse the dramaticism.
From: sdm91r@ecs.soton.ac.uk (Stuart Maclean)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Engine Number
Date: 11 Jan 93 13:30:55 GMT

Hi All, I've just bought the John Muir book _How to Keep your VW
Alive_. It is really good, and even includes a section on how to
identify your Engine. I have a Bus with a 1600 engine in. The Engine
number starts with AS, which Muir suggests is a 1973 Type II engine.
However the Chasssis is defintely 1977. Have I got an older engine
than I thought, or is Muir's book only talking about VW's reaching the
USA. All suggestions welcome.

-- 
Stuart Maclean,
Dept of Electronics and Computer Science,
University of Southampton.
From: drew@bnr.co.uk (Scooby Doo)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Brakes Front?
Date: 12 Jan 1993 09:40:49 GMT
Organization: BNR Europe, New Southgate, London.
NNTP-Posting-Host: bnsgs211.bnr.co.uk

	Hello again.

	Thanks to all off you who correctly diagnosed my CV joints problem,
my 82' GTi is now running fine again. I have another question (groan) for
you. I don't tend to drive this car particularly hard, usually stays in
the 2000-4000 rpm range (except for the occasional encounter with a GT-16v-
Twin-Cam-Turbo-fluffy-dice-I've-got-a-tacky-body-kit boy racer), but I was 
driving round a number of roundabouts with reasonably heavy braking and
acceleration when the brakes faded right out. Now I replace the front brake
with new pads in october and they are still fine (visual inspection) but
they are obvious not the best quality ones. I was used to brake fade in my
old VW Polo, but wasn't expecting it in the GTi quite so quick, it was only
the legendary handling that kept me on the road!! The car just had it's MOT
and passed the test no problem, but I'm not happy with the brakes. Should
I try different pads or is there something wrong? Bare in mind this is
Britain!!

For reference.

82 GTi Euro Spec (1588cc 110bHP No cat, No Mods, 175/13 tyres)

Thanks again.

Drew.

-- 

Pretty damn silly place to leave a signature...

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mms@world.std.com (Malcolm M Sanders)
Subject: Where do I purchase rebuilt VW engine?
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
Distribution: rec.autos.vw
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 22:49:53 GMT

What places are there that specialize in selling and shipping VW parts
for older models. I know about the Parts Place in Michigan, but I was 
wondering if any similar establishment exists closer to Maine, where I
live.  I have a 1980 Westphalia that would like to get equipped with a
rebuilt engine and I am trying to locate the best source for this engine.

Thanks for your help.

--Malcolm M. Sanders
  mms@jax.org