HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: asdch@acad2.alaska.edu
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Gas cars.,1/8 scale gas Vanning/testing/new user
Summary: test
Keywords: car
Date: 28 Aug 92 23:11:45 GMT
Organization: University of Alaska

In article <1992Aug28.185637.1@acad2.alaska.edu>, asdch@acad2.alaska.edu writes:
> In article <1992Aug24.115815.1366@hsr.no>, paal-sb@hsr.no (Paal Steinar Berg) writes:
>> Anyone out there run 1/8 scale on-road gas cars...
>> 
>> I've go at serpent sprint with a rex engine.
>> 
>> PSB
>>
From: jrp@bohra.cpg.oz.au (John Pitman)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: instructors
Keywords: paying for it
Date: 30 Aug 92 03:58:12 GMT
Organization: Computer Power Software

Hi again
We have a guy down here who teaches for $ - actually $A45/hr, but maybe he
provides equipment in that! he is a very capable flier, but our club doesn't
hold with charging for tuition, and when he started teaching for $ at our field
although not a member, we gave him a few hints. He applied to join later, but on
checking with other clubs where said he would give them a cut of his fee for use
of their field, they said he never seemed to actually pay them anything, so we
declined to admit him.
All in all, if you cant find somebody to teach you for nothing, there is
something wrong with the hobby.
jp
Organization: University of Maine System
Date: Friday, 4 Sep 1992 12:46:09 EDT
From: <IO10046@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Electric Flight

    I was wondering if the electric helicopters are any good.
I have RC cars, and in the quest for something different I came
across and became interested in electric helicopters.  I would
like to stay away from glow power because of the expense, smell,
noise, etc.  Any feedback on electric helis would be greatly
appreciated.

-Aaron Brasslett
-University of Maine
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: cleigh@rtoeu.enet.dec.com (Chad Leigh)
Subject: Re: Engine Storage
Reply-To: cleigh@rtoeu.enet.dec.com
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation, Munich Germany
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 12:39:02 GMT


What I've been told to do is the following:

Run the engine dry by running at full power and pinching the fuel until it stops.  Then hook up your glow-plug heater and "start" your engine until you hear no more crackle of fuel igniting.  Your engine is hopefully dry of fuel.  Then put some after run oil in the engine and turn it over some more to work it throughout.  Store it.  The wrapping in rags sounds reasonable.

Some folks buy after run oil, some use automatic transmission oil, some Marvel Mystery, some Mobil-1 Synthetic (important for YS engines).

Note, I do this after every flying day, especially when I am not planning oncoming out for a few days.

Chad
From: asdch@acad2.alaska.edu
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Making Tuned Pipes
Date: 29 Aug 92 00:01:00 GMT
Organization: University of Alaska

In article <BsF4F4.DH9@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu>, ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib) writes:
> Hi all
> 
> I got my hands on some carbon fiber sock material cheap. Its 
> sort of a woven hose and you form it over a mandrel to make things
> like tuned pipes. 
> 
> Does anyone have any rules-of-thumb about how to calculate pipe 
> diameters, lengths etc.?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Iskandar Taib                          | The only thing worse than Peach ala
> Internet: NTAIB@SILVER.UCS.INDIANA.EDU |    Frog is Frog ala Peach
> Bitnet:   NTAIB@IUBACS                 !
From: earl@trsvax.tandy.com
Date: 26 Aug 92 08:23 CDT
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: FAQ? (questions about engines)
Message-ID: <1195667303@trsvax>
From: jlw@world.std.com (James L Walker)
Subject: Re: trigear type vs bigear type
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
Distribution: rec
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 13:48:40 GMT

In article <etxjema.714984523@kk270> etxjema@kk270.ericsson.se (Mikael Andersson TT/RKE) writes:
>Hi everybody,
>here's a question that might be a FAQ:
>
>On the model that I've started to build I can choose between two landing gear types: trigear type (with nose wheel) or bigear type (no nosewheel).
>
>All my previous planes had trigear and that worked fine for me except on some bad grass fields where the prop hit the ground if you ran into a small hole.
>
>Now I'm thinking of trying a bigear to make the plane easier to run on the ground but what about start and landing?
>The start won't be any problem but what about the landing?
>
>Mikael Andersson
>Stockholm 
>Sweden
>email: etxjema@kk.ericsson.se

As far as the physics is concerned, a trike (trigear) is easier to
handle on the ground than a taildragger (bigear).  See "Stick and
Rudder".  When a plane is rolling, and starts to veer off a straight
track it will tend to ground loop -- make the turn tighter and
tighter.  This can be controlled directly with rudder or indirectly
with the resistance of the third wheel.  In a trike the nose wheel is
heavy on the ground until you rotate (feed up elevator) while on a
taildragger the tail wheel is not as heavy on the ground and can be
overcome by the plane's tendency to ground loop.

Trikes will land easier "hot" (ie. fast ground speed) than a
taildragger.  When a taildragger rests on the ground the wing's angle
of attack is high because it's tail is resting on the ground.  When
the plane is comming in fast, the angle of attack is low so the mains
touch the ground first and the tail settles in later.  If the tail
settles in too quickly, the increased angle of attack will generate
enough lift to get the plane airborne again.  This accounts for the
"bounce" when you land a taildragger to hard.  If you are really good
you can land a taildragger really fast by putting the mains gently on
the ground and then using down elevator to throw the tail up.  The
force of the air over the tail will keep the plane from nosing over
until you are going slow enough to drop the tail.  The easy way to
land a taildragger is to make a "three point" landing where the plane
is going slow enough that the tailwheel will touch the ground at the
same time as the mains.  Of course in a trike the plane rests on the
ground with a nice low angle of attach so you can grease it in very
fast with very little bounce.

Because of the naturally high angle of attack, a taildragger will
leave the ground at a naturally slow speed with a short roll-out.
This is an advantage if you learn to properly handle the rudder to
keep the plane on track.

-- Les Walker
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: etxjema@kk270.ericsson.se (Mikael Andersson TT/RKE)
Subject: trigear type vs bigear type
Organization: Ericsson
Distribution: rec
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 06:48:43 GMT

Hi everybody,
here's a question that might be a FAQ:

On the model that I've started to build I can choose between two landing gear types: trigear type (with nose wheel) or bigear type (no nosewheel).

All my previous planes had trigear and that worked fine for me except on some bad grass fields where the prop hit the ground if you ran into a small hole.

Now I'm thinking of trying a bigear to make the plane easier to run on the ground but what about start and landing?
The start won't be any problem but what about the landing?

Mikael Andersson
Stockholm 
Sweden
email: etxjema@kk.ericsson.se
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Some Glider Questions...
From: kaiser@elec.canterbury.ac.nz (Chris Kaiser)
Date: 24 Aug 92 11:46:15 +1200
Distribution: world
Organization: Electrical Engineering, University of Canterbury, New Zealand

In article <BtG047.E7C@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu>, ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib) writes:
> In article <1992Aug20.222823.1121@col.hp.com> gregt@col.hp.com (Greg Tarcza) writes:
> 
> >Radio: 
> >>  If somebody *WANTS* to stay with polyhedral gliders do you
> >>  still suggest to buy a 4 channel system, or a simple 2 channel AM
> >>  system is enough? 
> 
> I've heard that the split sticks make for good glider piloting 
> (you aren't creating "stick thermals"). Still I bet it takes
> getting used to, I'll bet...


Here in New Zealand most people fly the opposite mode to you guys anyway - we
generally have throttle and aileron (or rudder if no ailerons) on the right stick
and elevator and rudder on the left stick. This means that the primary direction
control is on the other stick from the elevator. Personally I think this makes
it easier to fly smoothly (but then I've always flown this mode). Also the feel
is so different to full scale flying that I don't think there's any comparison
between the control sticks and an aircraft joystick.


Chris Kaiser

Postgrad, Elec. Eng. Dept.
University of Canterbury
Christchurch, NEW ZEALAND
From: paal-sb@hsr.no (Paal Steinar Berg)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Tire Gluing Technique
Date: 28 Aug 92 09:54:52 GMT
Organization: Rogaland University Centre

How do you guys glue foam tires ??
Do you use contact glue or CA ?

Thanks 

Paal

(paal-sb@hsr.no)
From: mad9a@newton.acc.Virginia.EDU (Michael A. Davis)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Engine Storage
Date: 23 Aug 92 22:51:09 GMT
Organization: University of Virginia
Ireallyam: mad9a


  I have several engines which need to be packed up and stored for the
school year.  Could someone please give me some tips on what to do to prepare
the engines for about an 8 month storage.  Thanks.

Mike Davis
mad9a@newton.acc.virginia.edu
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: gse@ida.liu.se (Goran Sedvall)
Subject: FAQ? (questions about engines)
Organization: CIS Dept, Univ of Linkoping, Sweden
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 07:14:52 GMT

Is there any FAQ list for this group? I have a minor problem
with a Webra 6.5cc engine. My engine doesen't run properly.
It starts but stop again after a few secconds. I suspect that
the glowing plug is to cold. How does an engine react when I
use wrong glowing plug?
Goran

Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: glenng@analogy.com (Glenn Graham)
Subject: Covering scale RC models
Reply-To: glenng@analogy.UUCP (Glenn Graham)
Organization: Engineering, Graphics Group
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 20:27:14 GMT

'm new to this group so I hope this hasn't been beaten to death
before but... I am finally moving out of my appartment and into
a house where I will have enough space to begin constructing RC
aircraft. I haven't been involved in balsa/RC modeling since hi-
school and even then they were static since radio gear was way
beyond my budget then. I have since been restricted to scale
plastic. But now I can pick up where I left off and I can now
afford to do it for real! What I am looking for is input on covering
techniques for scale aircraft. My eventual goal will be to attempt
one of the Proctor scale kits (as you can tell Scale is my primary
interest in modeling). I plan on working up to it over several kits
(and several years) learning to fly along the way. I have covered
planes with monocote (many years ago) but never was really happy
with the way seams turned out (dirt and dust would always make them
visible) and the "plastic-y" look they had. I am sure there are new
techniques out there as well as new products. Also, when It comes to
modeling I am a terrible perfectionist so time and patience are not
a problem as long as I am confident I am following the right step . I
have also built
planes that were sheeted entirely with balsa, sanding sealer, and paint,
with no other coverings but I have been told this is unwise since it
adds too much weight and will disintegrate with any but the most soft
crash landings. Again, any help will be very appreciated.

Glenn Graham, SMEE
Graphics/Applications Software Engineer
Analogy, Inc.
Beaverton, Or.

Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: hutto@SMTC.engr.scarolina.edu (Brent Hutto)
Subject: Re: Tire Gluing Technique
Reply-To: hutto@smtc.engr.scarolina.edu
Organization: NIST Southeast Manufacturing Technology Center
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 92 20:09:02 GMT

In article <1992Aug27.131657.22945@lmpsbbs.comm.mot.com>, bobwo@ecs.comm.mot.com (Bob Woodhouse) writes:
>Hello,
>
>I race a 1/10 scale electric off-road car.  I have been gluing tires to
>the rims with Loctite416, a CA glue.  Often, after a few races, some
>chunks of the glue will be attached to the rubber tire and some chunks
>will be attached to the plactic rim, but there will be cracks in the glue
>all the way around such that you could probably peel the tire off the rim.
>This happens on my front and rear tires, and the rims and tires are initially
>free of dirt and grime since I glue them right after purchasing them.  I
>wish to know if this is a typical experience or if there are glues or secret 
>techniques that may be used to better hold a tire in place.  I have never had
>a tire with cracked glue to separate from the rim, nor have I had dirt infiltration
>problems.  I have tried adding more glue to cracked glue with occasional success.
>My method for gluing is to put a few drops between tire and rim and then to
>run a continuous bead of glue around the meeting of tire and rim.  It is this
>visible bead of glue that cracks;  the few drops that are out of sight between
>the tire and rim seem to be the main thing left holding the tire on.
>
>Good day,
>Bob Woodhouse

    If you use "accelerator" spray to set the CA glue, it will craze like
    that.  Accelerated CA seems too brittle to use on tires.  They make
    "flexible" CA glue, which is pretty darned expensive, but it works
    better on tires.  It dries pretty slow.

    Brent "hates glue" Hutto

-------------------------------
Brent Hutto
hutto@SMTC.engr.scarolina.edu
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: svoboda@rtsg.mot.com (David Svoboda)
Subject: Re: Receivers
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 04:12:17 GMT

In article <1992Aug27.190350.27957@mlb.semi.harris.com> mwp@ms9.mis.semi.harris.com (Mark W. Poole) writes:
|I have a 6 channel FM system, and I was wondering if I could use
|a reciever that has fewer than 6 channel capability.  In other
|words, can I use a two channel receiver with a 6 channel
|transmitter??

Yes, you can.  The signalling from transmitter to receiver (independent
of modulation) of an analog transmitter takes the form of a synch pulse,
and a measured servo pulse, one for each channel.  The servo pulse duration
is measured by the receiver to determine servo positioning.  A receiver
with fewer channels than are transmitted (a two channel RX, for instance)
will look for the first two servo pulsed after the synch pulse, then ignore
everything else until it sees the synch pulse again, and start over.

In the other direction, (Rx with more channels than Tx), the receiver is
looking for more pulses when the transmitter is through sending them for
the current frame, but get's "reset" by the synch pulse and starts over.
So that works, as well.

If this doesn't make sense (and it may not--I'm still at work, at 
11:10pm :-), you can look at it on the TV, if you have an AM radio.  Just
tune to channel 3 or 4, and hold the transmitter antenna near the antenna
input of the TV, then adjust fine tuning, etc, until you see solid black
bands horizonally across the TV.  Now, move the sticks and flip switches,
and see what happens.

		Dave Svoboda, Palatine, IL
From: larry@peak.psl.nmsu.edu (Evil Engineer doin' it the Cowboy Way)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: crummy glow plugs?
Date: 26 Aug 92 08:02:13 GMT
Distribution: rec.models.rc
Organization: New Mexico State University, MetaPhysical Science Laboratory

OK, I know I'm not R/C, but I'm having a problem some of you might know
something about. I've been using basically stock OS-40FPSes (C/L version,
with venturi, smaller muffler, and 2 head gaskets) in my stunt ships. They
work surprisingly well, and I've had very good luck with them. Instead of
buying the expensive OS glow plugs however, I have been using the econo
Tower R/C longs, with idle bar. They last and last and I end up putting in
a new plug every six months or so.

OK, fine. Suddenly I started experiencing a flame out, which turned out to
be cured by replacing the plug. When it failed, the plug looked perfect,
but the engine would just die, like it was shut off, a short period after
the battery was removed. I tried different fuel, fuel filters, with the
same exact symptoms. 

The problem was that this fix apparently only lasted about a dozen flights
(our stunt patterns take under 8 minutes). And it took another plug to fix
it again. I also tried some K & B plugs, which also ran well, but did the
same thing after FEWER flights.

Windy Urtnowski crashed his concourse winning stunter at the Nats this
year due to a similar problem, and he was using a Fox Miracle plug.
According to him, after the Nats, Big Jim Greenway started testing these
plugs for the problem and found only 3 good ones in a test sample of 48!

Windy seems to think it is a bad "batch" of plugs. And I'm assuming that
Tower's econo plugs may be from the lowest bidder and therefore varying in
quality. Maybe the PT plating is bad?

I am going to do some experimenting myself on other engines and plugs. I
thought this particular engine might be having a problem, perhaps somehow
contaminating its plug elements or something. I recently had to replace
its so-called ABC cylinder/piston assembly because it was showing brass.
Something apparently went through the engine..

Anyway, I opted for steel/iron for the replacement liner/piston and it
looks just perfect (I gave it a careful break in, about 1/2 gallon of
fuel). And, that was many months ago, with the engine running perfectly
all that time and only recently exhibiting this problem.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance for your comments.

L.
"Yeh, Buddy..            | larry@psl.nmsu.edu (Larry Cunningham)|  _~~_
 I've got your COMPUTER! | % Physical Science Laboratory        | (O)(-)
 Right HERE!!"           | New Mexico State University          |  /..\ 
 (computer THIS!)        | Las Cruces, New Mexico, USA 88003    |   <> 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Disclaimer: Opinions expressed here are CORRECT, mine, and not PSLs or NMSUs..
O Fair New Mexico! Landfill of Enchantment. And home of THEM (Atomic Ants)..
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: hutto@SMTC.engr.scarolina.edu (Brent Hutto)
Subject: Re: Off-road ==> Carpet as painlessly as possible
Reply-To: hutto@smtc.engr.scarolina.edu
Organization: NIST Southeast Manufacturing Technology Center
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 92 18:03:30 GMT

In article <14.2AA655B9@kennel.FIDONET.ORG>, john@kennel.FIDONET.ORG (John Hamilton) writes:

|Brent, the Lynx Elite will eat the RC10L alive if set up right. The guy
|the shop was sponsoring when I had it ran my Elite, which was way tricked
|out (but nothing that didn't make it handle better), and he consistently
|beat the top RC10L guys even though everyone said the 10L was a better car.
|
|On the other hand, getting the Elite set up is a tough job, and takes lots
|of track time. Don't think you can put it on a tweak board, set tweak, put
|trued tires on it, and get the best out of it like you can from a 10L. It
|won't happen.
|
|Have fun, you are running the most sophisticated (and simple at the same time)
|car there is for 1/10th onroad electric. :-)

    Decisions, decisions.  I feared that I would have a tough decision
    between these two options; these things never seem to be cut and dried.
    Just last week, I started graduate school (in addition to my normal
    job) and my spare time is less now than any time since I graduated from
    college 10 years ago.  Of course, that's the wrong time to start a new
    kind of racing, but I'm dying to try the new carpet track.

    The sensible thing to do would be buy the RC10L and, as you say, just
    set the tweak, true the tires and race, race, race.  Least investment
    of time for the greatest return in racing.  The RC10L is also what
    literally *everyone* else at this track has, so I could swap spare
    parts and so forth with the other racers.

    OTOH, I have a fatal attraction to trying to do things "my way" and
    not following the crowd.  It sounds like I could learn how to set up
    the Lynx and really kick some behinds.  In addition, I could buy this
    used Lynx from the track owner for next to nothing whereas I would
    probably buy a brand-new RC10L, but the fiberglass '10L isn't very
    expensive anyway.

    Like I said, decisions, decisions.

    Thanks for the info, Jim.  That's just what I needed to know.  Now the
    decision is all mine, we'll see how it works out this weekend!!!

-------------------------------
Brent Hutto
hutto@SMTC.engr.scarolina.edu
From: bloom@inland.com
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Charging Field Battery
Date: 2 Sep 92 07:56:20 CST
Organization: Inland Steel Company; East Chicago, IN

In article <1992Aug31.192821.27832@b11.b11.ingr.com>, sullivan@genesis.b21.ingr.com (Howard Sullivan) writes:
> 
> My drive to work each day is 50-60 minutes one way.  I would like to add a
> polarized connector inside my car so that I can plug my field box to it and
> use my car's charging system to keep my field (12-volt motorcycle) battery
> charged.  My idea is to run wire in parallel to the battery cables from the
> alternator to a polarized trailer connector.  Then when I put my field kit 
> in the car, I can plug in the charging connector.  This will ensure that the
> battery is at full charge at all time and even let me field charge my battery
> if it should run low.
> 
> Any comments?

Yeah, read the instructions for charging that came with your motorcycle 
battery.  Due to its fragile nature, you should only charge at 1 amp 
maximum current.  Since you can only put 1 amp in, the time needed to 
fully charge depends on the capacity of your battery and how low the 
charge was.  Field charging is impractical, you can't rush the job.
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc