HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: todd_oconnor@taligent.com (Todd O'Connor)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: alarm system recommendati
Date: 21 Aug 92 17:47:58 GMT
Organization: Taligent, Inc.
X-Date: Fri, 21 Aug 92 10:48:42 GMT
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d3



This "theft" device will work if you have a standard where the clutch and brake
pedals are close together.  Buy a heavy duty lock (Master or some other type) with
a shank long enough to enclose both the brake and clutch arms (?) and lock it. 
Which comes first, can't start or can't stop?  The only way around this is to blow
away the lock or cut through a serious piece of metal, ie. the brake or clutch arm,
and then not have that pedal available.

But then again if they want it bad enough.......


tc
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mike%jim.uucp@wupost.wustl.edu (Mike Suter)
Subject: Re: Redline MTL for Miata - GL-4 vs GL-5
Organization: BITS, St. Louis, MO
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 20:54:46 GMT

samuels@mcclb0.med.nyu.edu (Herb Samuels) writes:

>What is the difference between GL-4 and GL-5 manual transmssion fluid. 
>Redline sells two manual transmission lubricants for the Mazda miata.
>One is MT-90 which is a 75w90 GL-4 and the second is a 75w90NS GL-5. 
>The NS stands for no slip and they said it has a higher viscosity than
>the GL-4.  Someone else told me that GL-4 was of higher viscosity than
>GL-5.  Are there any inherant advantages of GL-4 vs GL-5 or GL-5 vs
>GL-4.  The Miata Manual indicates that either GL-4 or GL-5 can be
>used.

I just battled all of this a month or so ago.  If I got it right,
GL-4 is meant for manual transmissions, and GL-5 is meant for
differentials.  GL-5 has additives which will corrode the synchros
in a transmission expecting GL-4, so use GL-4 unless specifically
told to do otherwise.  (GL-5 and 6 do not replace GL-4)

Look in your manual to find the correct weight.  Call Redline
and ask for their techie.

Good luck!
Mike
-- 
mike%jim.uucp@wupost.wustl.edu
From: jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: GM pro's out there?
Date: 21 Aug 92 11:10:36 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.

brownr@hydra.rtp.dg.com (Tall Randy Brown) writes:

>At a 60 mph correct, 82 mph indicated, you're going to have to go to a speedo
>gear with a *lot* more teeth.  They may not be able to put in a gear that will
>adjust ~35% by itself, but I'm not sure how much range there is to work with.

In these cases, assuming the speedo is not damaged (typically a speedo should
read 60 mph for 1000 rpm), they'll just install a small gearbox in the
speedo cable with the gears selected for the proper correction.

John

-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC               |Interested in high performance mobility?  
Performance Engineering Magazine (TM) |
Marietta, Ga                         |Interested in high tech and computers? 
jgd@dixie.com                        |Write me about PE Magazine
Need Usenet public Access in Atlanta?  Write Me for info on Dixie.com.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: chuck@col.hp.com (Chuck Rice)
Subject: Fuel additive to stop frothing?
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 19:12:34 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division

Does a fuel additive exist that will stop frothing in float bowls?
From: vbreault@rinhp750.gmr.com (Val Breault)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: starter Solenoid current requirements?  Help please.
Date: 20 Aug 92 20:08:14 GMT
Organization: General Motors Research Labs
In-reply-to: kevins@eecs.cs.pdx.edu's message of 20 Aug 92 05:01:57 GMT

In article <6008@pdxgate.UUCP> kevins@eecs.cs.pdx.edu (Kevin Stanton) writes:

   I'm trying to figure out how much current a starter solenoid draws in
   general.  On my 85 Cutlass Ciera, my ammeter shows about 10 amps through
   the 12 gauge wire, but is there a spike before that?  I've heard something
   about pull-in and hold windings in the solenoids...  Or, do most new cars
   have solenoid relays?

I think you're in the right ballpark for current Kevin.  As far as I know
there are no cars with pick and hold windings.  The starting event is
supposed to be brief.  The additional complexity of hold windings would
not yield any real world benefits.  Since the solenoid is an inductor
the current should rise to it's maximum without any spikes.  However,
there could be some spikes when the current is removed and the magnetic
field collapses.  If you're contemplating a solid state switch then you'd
be wise to put a hefty diode across the coil to protect the switch.

-val-

--

Val Breault - vbreault@gmr.com - N8OEF/AE
General Motors Research and Environmental Staff.
The opinions expressed by the author do not necessarily reflect 
those of the GMRES or the General Motors Corporation.
From: macman+@pitt.edu (Dennis H Lippert)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 89 Voyager LE 2.5 turbo 4, gas mileage and octane
Date: 17 Aug 92 18:04:43 GMT
Organization: University of Pittsburgh

In article <1992Aug17.142511.11123@news.duc.auburn.edu> kevins@eng.auburn.edu (Kevin Sullivan) writes:
>Just bought this car, got 22mpg on highway (and some city) using 89 octane.
>AC was on.  The next tank was 87 octane and I got 20 on the highway.  The 
>manual says to use 87 minimum, the fuel door sticker says premium recomended.  
>It didn't knock on 87.  Haven't tried premium yet.
>
>Is this mileage about normal for this van/engine combo?  What does the 2.5 
>nonturbo get?  The V6?  If anyone has this engine, let me know what you think 
>about it.

My dad has just such a beast... uses 89 octane all the time.  The knock
sensor will keep the engine from having problems on 87 octane, but you
will notice significantly more power from 89.  There is also a performance
boost with higher (i.e. 92) octane, but we didn't figure it's worth the
cost.

The gas mileage (22 on 89 oct) sounds typical (for an automatic... there's
no overdrive), but then again, my dad "gets his foot in it" too much to
get good gas mileage with anything (can you say 21 mpg VW Rabbit, I knew 
you could).

We've had ours since '89, have 49k miles on it, and have never had a 
single problem, except for a PCV system problem which slowly shuffles
our oil from the sump to the air cleaner... it still passes emissions
inspections, so we just change the filter every 10k or less, and 
live with it).  For the record, big Fords (Crown Vics) like to race,
for whatever reasons, and always lose to the turbo-van!

-Den

-- 
===============================================================================
Dennis Lippert   -   macman+@pitt.edu or macman@vm2.cis.pitt.edu
The "Mac Maniac" operator at the Hillman Research Lab - Univ. of Pittsburgh
"All comments are mine, you'd look like a fool if *you* used them"
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: owens@jonquil.uchicago.edu (Christopher Owens)
Subject: Remove trim adhesive: summary of responses
Organization: Dept of Computer Science, The Univ of Chicago
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 21:24:02 GMT


I received one response to my query, from Brad Bass (bass@convex.com):

>Is it posible to remove automobile body trim (in particular, trunk lid
>badges) from a modern (i.e. clear-coated) finish without damaging the
>finish?  Does anyone know of a solvent or technique to accomplish
>this?

I used a product called Lift-Off that I picked up a the hardware store.
It's in an aerosol can and is smells like lemon.  It is specifically
formulated to remove adhesive, road tar, etc. from painted surfaces.
I've used it extensively on my restored classic Porsche.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: brownr@hydra.rtp.dg.com (Tall Randy Brown)
Subject: Re: Toxic parts' disposal?
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 92 15:44:21 GMT
Organization: DG-RTP Graphics Group

In article <1992Aug11@med.ge.com> hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987) writes:
>lung@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Terence Lung) writes:
>: 
>: Does anyone know of any environmentally sound options
>: to dispose of automotive stuff like fuel filters, air filters,
>: spark plugs, oil filters, etc?
>: 
>Yes, especially antifreeze.  I really hate just dumping it into
>my gravel driveway, but what am I supposed to do with it?

Most radiator shops will dispose of your antifreeze properly, they even
charge you a fee when they do radiator work to dispose of the coolant in
your radiator.  Something like a 'waste management fee', it was only $3 for
my radiator work.   I'm not saying they are all legit and aren't dumping it
down *their* drains, but you have a much better chance with them.

Check around.

Randy
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: pngai@adobe.com (Phil Ngai)
Subject: Re: Acura Integra clutch questions
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 23:46:58 GMT

In article <39670085@hpcc01.corp.hp.com> divitt@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Mark Divitt) writes:
>	     Question for you '87(?) thru '89 Acura Integra owners out there.
>    How long have you gone between new clutches? and under what type of 

I have an 86 Honda Civic Si (not really an Integra but not that
different?) and my clutch has 105K. My mechanic drove it and said it
seems to still be satisfactory. I haven't noticed any problems yet.

I've also been known to get 60K out of my brakes.

-- 
My opinions are my own.
A right delayed is a right denied.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mike%jim.uucp@wupost.wustl.edu (Mike Suter)
Subject: Re: alarm system recommendati
Organization: BITS, St. Louis, MO
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 16:22:00 GMT

>PT>Does anyone have any recommendations for good alarm
>PT>systems?  What are the features to look for, and how
>PT>much should they cost?
>Buy a "Club" I don't want to have to listen to yet another false
>Auto-alarm. (G)...but seriously the HPD says the Club is better anyway.
>It goes across the steering wheel and prevents it from being turned.

Yeah, until they slice through the steering wheel.

Get a good electronic alarm with ignition kill and LED warning lights.

Mike
-- 
mike%jim.uucp@wupost.wustl.edu
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:11367 sci.physics:13065
From: kriman@acsu.buffalo.edu (Alfred M. Kriman)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,sci.physics
Subject: Re: Need Formula For Tire Friction
Summary: Axle wear could be an issue.
Keywords: differential, transaxle, limited-slip
Date: 19 Aug 92 18:19:46 GMT
Organization: "UB" = State Univ. of New York at Buffalo

In article <1992Aug15.200403.18303@cabot.balltown.cma.COM> richard welty 
(welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM) replies to:
>article <h85mx6k.westes@netcom.com> Will Estes westes@netcom.com writing:
>>I recently had a bad experience with a small "toy" spare tire
>>on my Honda Prelude.  After driving on it at 50 mph for only
>>10 miles it heated up almost to the point where it was
>>smoking.
>
>
>>What I would like is some formula that takes as its input
>>the load on the tire, the diameter of the tire, and the
>>width of the tread, and gives as its output some sort of
>>"friction number" that could be used to determine whether
>>the tire will get too hot or not.  Does anyone know of
>>such a formula?  Are there other major input variables
>>I'm missing here?
[vide infra]
>
>yes, lots.
>
>you need to know the characteristics of the tire compound,
>the weight/load on the tire from the car (and its operation),
>the inflation of the tires, and so forth.
>
>i think that it will prove to be too complicated a computation
>to be worth trying to do, unless you happen to work for a tire
>company and have the necessary resources.
>
>trust the speed rating, and keep your tires properly inflated.

	The drive wheels of a car do not spin freely relative to each other.
A differential on the rear axle allows tires on a rear-wheel drive vehicle
to rotate at different speeds.  This way, when the car turns, the tires
don't "drag" each other.  I don't know details for front- and four-wheel
drive, but the same problem must be solved -- torque transfer to wheels
spinning at different speeds.  In the simplest differentials, there is no
part whose load or wear depends on the _difference_ in speeds, but this
cannot be true of all differentials, particularly the limited-slip
differentials.  For vehicles with such differentials, tire-heating may not
be the biggest problem.
	Can someone offer an informed opinion?
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: charlie@leland.Stanford.EDU (Charlie Channel, Jr.)
Subject: Re: '57 TR3 no engine go jap?
Organization: Stanford U
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 15:19:35 GMT

In article <1992Aug14.130337.382@mlb.semi.harris.com> jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger) writes:
> As far as GM engines into Jags go, the idea is to get big power and improved
>reliability. However the only one of these I've ever seen personally was by
>the roadside with its hood up. It had a 454 Chevy in it with a ridiculously
>small radiator and apparently was in a habit of overheating. In that case
>neither power nor reliability were in evidence.

A friend of mine put a 350 in his Jag.  Sweet as honey.  No problems.
Loves it.

C


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ehawrysh@bmers217.bnr.ca (Evan Hawrysh)
Subject: Re: Removing headrests
Organization: bnr
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 92 16:40:32 GMT

In article <92Aug18.073353pdt.11778@alpha.xerox.com>, Michel_Denber.WBST147@XEROX.COM writes:
|> 
|> 	"Can anybody tell me how to do that on my near-basemodel '87 Celebrity
|> 2.8? Wagon?"
|> 
|> 			- Michel
|> 
|> denber.wbst147@xerox.com

I had a similar problem with my Mustang. After trying all sorts of rods
and the like in an attempt to release the spring, I just unzipped the seat
fabric from the seatback and stuck my hand in with a screwdriver and was able
to release the spring tension enough to pull out the headrest. Try this out.

Evan

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: nate@panix.com (Nate Clark)
Subject: Subaru billows white smoke...
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 19:05:11 GMT
Organization: PANIX Public Access Unix & Internet, NYC

Quick question:  I have an '85 Subaru with approx. 130k miles. 
The car's in excellent condition, with one exception: it's just
started billowing white exhaust.  I have it parked, and start
it every week to let the oil circulate, etc.  Last week the car
started fine, but then suddenly seemed to lose compression.  The
engine killed immediately. I was able to restart the thing, but
things still don't feel right.  Anybody have experience with this
sort of thing?  Is it possible I'm just seeing the results of
condensation in the engine (we did have a cold/hot/wet weather
spell), or more likely there's a problem with a cracked cylinder
or something?  Any ideas would be appreciated.

I was getting ready to unload the car, so two questions: how much
would it take to repair this kind of ailment?  And assuming I don't have
it fixed and just try to sell it, what's it going to cost me in 
street value? 

Thanks in advance...
From: pwu@pop-tarts.ai.mit.edu (Peng Wu)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Why does car stall when going downhill or sudden stops???
Date: 14 Aug 92 21:10:35 GMT
Distribution: na
In-reply-to: rossi@gvlf9-q.gvl.unisys.com's message of 14 Aug 92 14:44:23 GMT

You might want to check two things: The idle speed and the power breaks.

When you go down hill or stop, the throttle is usually closed and the engine
idles at the lowest possible speed.  Idle means barely running, the engine is
venerable to sudden changes of conditions.  If you have a power break and use
it, it will certainly disturb the vacuum.  This might be the cause of
stalling.  

I believe using a higher idle speed will help.  But I cannot explain why some
car are more venerable than others.  In fact, I have a 85 Ford Tempo which
some time stalls when I break at idle, especially while parallel parking and
the power steering is at full load.  I haven't figure out how to fix the
problem since the idle speed is not adjustable on this car.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
From: thorn@wam.umd.edu (Greg Thornwall)
Subject: paint protection
Organization: Workstations at Maryland, University of Maryland, College Park
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 15:06:40 GMT


 We bought a Toyota corolla a few months ago and had the dealer
apply the ArmorAll(?) paint protection on the car (along with
undercoating & fabric protection). Does anyone know if this is
worth it? Does it really help protect the paint? 
 We were thinking of getting another car and I was thinking about
if it was worth the $$ to have it applied. Maybe there are other
companies that have the same product for less.? I also wonder how
much the stuff costs the dealer, they probably get it for a lot
less than we paid.

Thanks in advance.

--Greg     thorn@wam.umd.edu

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: michael9@cs.mun.ca (Michael Sullivan)
Subject: Re: Stiff stick -- '85 Colt
Organization: CS Dept., Memorial University of Newfoundland
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 14:59:02 GMT

sford@arrl.org (Steve Ford) writes:


>I own a 1985 Plymouth Colt (manual transmission) that's developed an
>odd problem. The stick occasionally becomes very stiff for no
>apparent reason. It shifts into the gates easily enough, but you
>practically need two hands to move it left or right. This problem
>will manifest itself for a few days and then disappear. Weeks later,
>it's back!
>Any ideas?
>Steve

  I had a similar problem on my '85 Jetta - you needed two hands to shift 
anywhere!  I ended up buying some thick grease (high pressure stuff) and 
applying it to all the levers and rod joints that the stick moves under the
hood.  Now it works perfectly!



-- 
|uunet!garfield!michael9|'"Proof denies faith and without faith I am nothing,"|
|michael9@odie.cs.mun.ca| says God.  "But you have given us proof," says      |
|POB 756,St.John's,Nfld.| man, "Therefore you do not exist. QED." "Oh, my,"   |
|A1S 1G8                | says God, and disappears in a puff of logic.'       |
From: samblane@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Sean Samblanet)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 195/50/15 vs. 205/50/15
Date: 12 Aug 92 18:23:57 GMT
Reply-To: samblane@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Sean Samblanet)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.autos.tech, fragante@unixg.ubc.ca (Gv Fragante) writes:
:Is there any noticeable difference in the *mounted* height between a
:195/50/15 vs. 205/50/15 ?  These would be mounted on a 15x6.5 rim. If there
:is a difference, by how much (in mm) ?  What about a 195/55/15 tire ?  Will
:it be taller or shorter than a 205/50/15 ?
: (more discription deleted)

The 195,205 number_ is the tire width in millimeters.  The 50,55 number
is the aspect ratio which is (side wall height/tire width)_in percent.
EX if_the tire is 205mm_wide and the_side wall is 102.5mm high the aspect
ratio is 102.5/205=.50_or 50(%).

    Going from 205/50_ to 195/50 to keep the aspect ratio the_same the
tire wall height_ must decrease.__I'm not positive but I believe the
decrease will have to be 5mm.  This means the overall height of your
tire will be 1cm shorter.  This may or may not be noticable.
Some rough calculations show the diameter of your 205/50 to be 23.07inches
and the 195/50 to be 22.68 inches a diff of .39 inches.  The 195/55
has a diameter of 23.44inches.

Hope this helps (and is correct_:-))
Sean #28 SSA SCCA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: brims@bnkl01.astro.ucla.edu (George Brims)
Subject: Re: Acura Integra clutch questions
Organization: UCLA Dept of Astronomy
Date: 21 Aug 92 09:33:34 PDT

In article <1992Aug14.162129.22213@colorado.edu> apuzzo@ucsu.Colorado.EDU (Tony Apuzzo) writes:
>I often shift at redline and double clutch / heel&toe the downshifts. 
Why do you double clutch on a syncro gerbox? Just because you know how to
do it doesn't mean you have to. One of these days you will find shifting a lot
harder if not impossible *without* double clutching as the syncromesh
components join the residue in the bottom of the box.
Doesn't *everyone* shift at redline???  8^)

>taking off, it pulls away from a stop like a diesel Rabbit pulling a
>boat until it hits about 1500 (or so) RPM, then it takes off.  Does anyone
>know if the Integra is "supposed" to do this?  My mechanic says there's
>nothing wrong, but I still wonder.
>
Sounds like an ignition timing problem. On an older car I would suspect a leak
in the vacuum advance/retard system, but I don't know whether the Integra
would still use that or something more sophisticated. If the curve of ignition
advance vs revs is wrong, you either have problems at the high end or the low
end, depending on what revs are used as the datum point for setting the timing.

George Brims
From: basiji@milton.u.washington.edu (David Basiji)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Premium gas to clean engine?
Date: 14 Aug 92 04:07:56 GMT
Article-I.D.: milton.basiji.713765276
Organization: University of Washington

eap@leland.Stanford.EDU (Eric Perozziello) writes:

>>
>>I am perfectly aware of the fact that using premium gas in an ordinary
>>engin won't improve performance, but my repair manual ("How to Keep
>>Your Honda Alive...", an excellent book BTW), says that it's a good
>>idea to occasionally fill up with premium. They say this will clean 
>>up the engine (from carbon deposits?). So, what does the net think about
>>it? 
>>

>Many gas co's use the SAME additive package in all octanes. I can't
>tell you all of them, but I DO know that TEXACO uses the same additives
>accross the board.   TEXACO is a fine fuel, and IMHO, will give the 
>least problems for FI cars.

Not British Petroleum (BP in the states, the slime).  Their premium
grade contains the detergents.

Dave

-- 
David Basiji 
"C neophyte, Bioengineering Grad Student, Internet Personality"

email: basiji@u.washington.edu          
NeXTmail: basiji@larry.pathology.washington.edu

		"Whining is just anger coming out of a very small hole."
            --Stuart Smalley
From: michaeln@hpcvnb.CV.HP.COM (Mike_Nason)
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 92 01:51:33 PDT
Subject: Re: Help needed  '84 Celica GT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Corvallis, Oregon
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

 this might not make any sense to you but you might think about running
some cooling system flush thru the cooling system and then putting in 
some new antifreeze/coolant. that stuff has been known to break down and
they recomend replacing it at 3 year interavals. also, if they removed the
radiator during repairs to the car and left it empty (didn't leave and anti-\
freeze in it, they can corrode blocking the water flow. 
            hope this helps. mike nason
From: imam@crayola.rutgers.edu (Adil S. Imam)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Honest Tech (WAS: Re: SENTRA Wipers, help...)
Date: 23 Aug 92 05:10:47 GMT
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.


In article <714402092.F00001@blkcat.UUCP>
Steve.Kaess@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Steve Kaess) writes:

I Wrote:
>>
>> The wipers and the windshield washer on my 85 Sentra died.
>>  The
>> technician at a local workshop...

[Details Deleted]

>> ...  I was pretty happy about the quick fix.

[Tech's diagnosis deleted]

>> So, I think, I should replace the relay.
>> Where is the relay?

To which Steve Kaess replied:

> HEY!!!
> it sounds like you found a skilled and honest tech who tried to save 
> you some money and do a quick fix.  I think you should go back to 
> him and let him earn some money.  While I KNOW where the relay is 
> I decline to disclose the information.  Automotive pros have bills 
> to pay just like you do.  
>

Actually, the technician in question IS a very honest and skilled
person and I recommend his place to anyone who asks.  I know that I am
quite fortunate in this respect since I have had some experience with
the "other" kind of mechanics [Who, in my book, rate close to car
salespeople].  What I didn't write in my original post was that they
had already earned some money on that day since they had changed the
oil/oil-filter and replaced 3 tires (the 4th one is in good condition
and the tread pattern is the same as the new ones) on my car.  Now, I
think that it is ethical if I take his advice and try to change the
relay (after I find it, i.e.) for the wipers.  The technician, by
trying the "quick-fix" method created a sense of good will and made a
loyal customer (a smart move).  I, on the other hand, am trying to
save some money (also not un-smart, IMHO).  Do you still think that I
should get it done by him? Is it unethical if I do it myself?

-Adil
-- 
Adil Imam
Computer Science,
Rutgers University,
New Brunswick, New Jersey.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech