HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: Sacrificial fish reccomendation sought
Date: 2 Jan 1993 01:46:40 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division
NNTP-Posting-Host: hplsdum.col.hp.com

Read your private email to my other half.  The reason why I asked
about the live rock, is most everybody quotes that as something that
really is necessary to have a good, healthy, balanced marine 
tank.  One gets a good base of that (live rock) arranged in their 
tank; then add fish & inverts.  

I agree with another reply; one only needs one fish to start the
bacteria cycling.  After that, add slowly and allow the filter's
colonies to 'beef up' to meet the bioload.

Mollies can stand full saltwater (ocean) conditions if acclimatized.

[Howard's Wife Deb]
-- 
Howard Rebel hpcsos.col.hp.com 

Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: wkb@cbnews.cb.att.com (wm.keith.brummett)
Subject: Re: OUTDOOR PONDS
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1993 18:34:33 GMT


    In article <1993Jan3.004451.26930@rigel.econ.uga.edu>,
    hughes@dogwood.botany.uga.edu (Wayne Hughes) writes:
    > ...
    > This autumn we decided to get rid of that sloping, shifting gravel
    > expanse we call a driveway, and began terracing it, converting it
    > into a water garden area.  ...
    > All I need to do is figure out which way to line it.
    >
    > The problem is wild animals.  ...
    > So the question is, do I line with plastic or concrete?  I'm
    > aware that the concrete entails considerable extra expense and
    > requires a lot more expertise; ...
    > I'd prefer plastic, but can only imagine that it will be
    > punctured the first time a deer decides to take a wade. ...
    > Any other alternatives?


    Something I've thought about for a while is fiberglass.  In my youth, I
    worked in an art store.  The owner had carved a rather large statue, and
    wanted to reproduce it.  We painted the statue with a rubber compound.
    Then, we built up a 1/4"-thick layer of fiberglass on it by using lots
    of strips of fiberglass mat held together by liberal brushings of resin.
    When dried, the 'glass mold was cut into fourths.  When the mold was
    reassembled in a frame, the rubber liner was inserted, and the whole
    thing was filled with plaster to make a copy of the statue.

    I don't know where to get the matting and resin, but it seems to me that
    this would make a good, tough base for a pond, especially if lined with
    rubber compound or plastic sheet.  One of these days I'll start looking
    in art stores for the ingredients.

    Any comments?

    -- Keith

-- 
    | (614) 860-3187         Copyright (C) 1993, by       AT&T, Room 3B202 |
    | att!cblph!wkb  or,     W.K. Brummett and AT&T      6200 E. Broad St. |
    | wkb@cblph.att.com       All rights reserved.      Columbus, OH 43213 |
    `----------------------------------------------------------------------'
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:6376 rec.aquaria:9785 sci.aquaria:1824
From: jessop@ljohub.enet.dec.com (Class Dinosauria)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: Recommendation on cold water fish
Date: 28 Dec 92 16:58:08 GMT
Reply-To: jessop@ljohub.enet.dec.com (Class Dinosauria)
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation


>can stand temperatures between 68-72.  I have been told that tanichthys >albonubes 'White cloud Mountain fish' will suit my tank just fine.  They are >small, about the same size as most of the Tetra variety.  

I wouldn't put a white cloud in it...  And definitely not a goldfish!  Goldfish are not suited for small tanks.  I kepot a betta in an unheated tank at room temperature (72 f.)  He did very well!  At 72 degrees, tho', I only fed him twice daily, and not much, at that.
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:6345 rec.aquaria:9736 sci.aquaria:1813
From: cowan@cerianthus.pinetree.org (Darin Cowan)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
Subject: [M] Lighting
Keywords: lighting,marine
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 92 21:08:06 GMT
Reply-To: cowan@cerianthus.pinetree.org
Organization: The Aquarium, Ottawa, Ontario

I have a 27 gal marine aquarium.  Currently it is being illuminated by
a single 24", 20W corallife 50% actinic/50% daylight with reflector.  I feel
this is too low and am planning to move up to a double light fixture (20W blue
and the 20W corallife).

The tank has corals and other inverts.  Is my choice of double fixture and 
light adequate?



Darin Cowan - cowan@cerianthus.pinetree.org - I'm really me!

Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: patti@hosehead.intel.com (Patti Beadles)
Subject: Re: Do Hospital tanks really work??
Originator: patti@hosehead
Organization: Intel Corporation, Hillsboro, OR
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 04:39:35 GMT

(Good question, BTW.)

Hospital tanks work on the principals that the "nasties" in your tank
need a host in order to live, and/or that you can remove the infected
fish before the disease strikes the whole tank.

If you have just a couple of sick fish, it's best to remove them as
soon as you notice signs of disease.  That way, there's less chance of
other fish becoming sick, and you can treat just the ones that need
it.

Bear in mind that fish, like humans, have an immune system, and are
capable of fighting off many infections.  When they catch something,
it's because their immune system can't deal with it (which is less
likely to happen if the fish is generally healthy and not stressed.)

If you've got a whole tank full of sick fish, it's best to treat them
in the main tank, and do the best that you can to keep the biological
filter going.  (Frequent water changes help.  AmQuel is rumored to be
useful in keeping things safe, but I've never tried that route.)

The BEST thing of all is to keep everybody in top condition, so that
they have the best chance of not getting sick in the first place.
-- 
Patti Beadles  503/696-4358 | I don't speak for Intel, nor vice-versa.
   patti@hosehead.intel.com |
   75555.767@compuserve.com | If it wasn't for the last minute,
or just yell, "Hey, Patti!" |             I'd never get anything done!
From: rudin@ohstpy.mps.ohio-state.edu
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Keeping plants alive.... how?!?
Date: 28 Dec 92 19:34:17 EST
Organization: The Ohio State University, Department of Physics

HI!

I have a question about keeping store-bought plants alive in
fresh water aquariums. Mine always seem to die. What do I need?
More light? More of some chemical? Any help would be aprreciated!

Thanks,
	SVeN
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier)
Subject: Re: Sacrificial fish reccomendation sought
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Fri, 1 Jan 93 18:17:08 GMT

Keptin Komrade Dr. Bobwrench III (bownes@crd.ge.com) wrote:
: this week and need to go out and get a couple
: of hearty, cheap critters to get it started.

Several people have reported good success with mollys
(yes, they are sold as freshwater fish, but they are
found in the Gulf of Mexico, I believe).

: should I just go out and get half a dozen damsels and
: an anemone and toss 'em in? 

You only need a single fish to cycle your tank.  The goal
is to have *some* ammonia present - it's not a matter of
the-more-the-merrier.
 
Caveat - I'm a freshwater guy.
--
"They thought to use and shame me but I win out by nature, because a true
freak cannot be made.  A true freak must be born." - K. Dunn, _Geek Love_

Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier
From: oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: Recommendation on cold water fish
Date: 27 Dec 92 05:19:45 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)

In article <BzuwJD.3xs@CAM.ORG> gelinas@CAM.ORG (Daniel Gelinas) writes:
>Ok here's the situation.  For Christmas I have received a nice little 2 gallon
>desk aquarium.  Unfortunately I'm not able to attach a standard heater to it(
>the kind that screw on to the side) so I must resort to keeping only fish which

Just about all submersible heaters under 50 Watt will fit in 1.5-2 gal
rectangular aquariums.  I have prefer 25-50 watt VisiTherm heaters.

>White cloud Mountain fish' will suit my tank just fine.  ....
>My question is, is this true? 

Yes, they will do fine.  So will any fish native to Florida and other
southern states' native fish.
-- 
Oleg Kiselev at home			...use the header to find the path
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Subject: Re: Hatching brine shrimp
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)
Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1993 10:51:38 GMT

In article <C07IrD.3o6@CAM.ORG> gelinas@CAM.ORG (Daniel Gelinas) writes:
>I was just wondering if anyone out there could give me simple, step by step,
>instructions on how to hatch brine shrimp.

Read FAQ, posted at the beginning of every month.  The latest one was posted
earlier today.  (ALWAYS read FAQ before asking questions because 90% of the
time you will find the answer there)

>1- Are they salt-water animals.  If yes, how long will they survive in fresh
>water.

They are salt water animals and the length of time they will survive in
fresh water depends on the level of salts in the water.  In my experience
the shrimp will stay alive from 1 to 12 hours in fresh water.  If you still
see them in the tank an hour after you have fed the fish, REDUCE the amount
of food you give your fish.

>2-Will all fish species eat brine shrimp?

Just about all.  Some bottom-dwellers don't have the patience to chase
them.  Some fish, like the smaller pencil fishes, have mouths too small 
to swallow an adult brine shrimp.  

>I what to look into brine shrimp because I know that the eggs can be 
>purchases at 1000 or 2000 for really cheap.

They are even cheaper if you buy them by the pound.  You can get a 1 lb can
of brine shrimp eggs for prices that range from $12 to $18.  There probably
a billion eggs in each can and they stay good indefinitely if kept very dry
-- a freezer is a good place to store them.

>I also figure that they do not
>sink to the bottom and pollute the tank like the flake food does.

Unfortunately, the shrimp tend to sink in fresh water.  They will tend to
swim toward stong sources of light, but after a while of trying to stay
afloat they will sink to the bottom.  So don't overfeed.
-- 
Oleg Kiselev at home			...use the header to find the path
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:6363 rec.aquaria:9772
From: hbishop@ttsi.lonestar.org (Huett Bishop)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: (M)(R) Back up power for reef tank?
Date: 31 Dec 92 15:05:45 GMT
Organization: Tandem Telecommunications Systems Inc.

In article <1992Dec30.193604.28228@sequent.com> patbob@sequent.com (Patrick White) writes:
>In article <1992Dec30.183440.25656@sx.mont.nec.com> ynecelc@sx.mont.nec.com (Ellison Chan) writes:
>>Well here's a suggestion which might work:
>>-  Buy a 12 DC to 120 VAC voltage converter from Radio Shack.
>
>>-  Of course, you can't bring you car into the house, so you will 
>>   need to have a car battery at you disposal.
>
>	I'd actually recommend a sealed battery (eg. a sealed led acid one or a
>gel cell) rather than a car battery..  unless you like the acid fumes.  These
>are what are used in home-scale UPS's. By sealed I don't mean *anything* sold
>for auto use, including the maintence free ones (which really aren't.. car
>batteries just last about 5 years if you never add water to them).
>	I don't know where to get them new.. I run across them in surplus
>places.
>
>-- 
>Pat White (patbob@sequent.com, work: (503) 578-3463)

Try Best Power Technology. You can reach them at 1-800-356-5794. They make
UPS's and Gel cell battieries.

+--------------------------------------+
|Huett Bishop                          |
| Tandem Telecommuncations Systems Inc.|
|Dallas, TX                            |
|                                      |
|Go Cowboys!!                          |
|                                      |
|email: hbishop@ttsi.lonestar.org      |
+--------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: kolbush@pizzabox.dialogic.com (Rich Kolbush)
Subject: Re: Battery Powered Air Pumps
Keywords: battery air pumps
Organization: Dialogic Corporation
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 92 18:06:18 GMT

Bass Pro Shops (1-800-227-7776) sells a variety of pumps starting at $4.59.

-- 
Rich Kolbush                | kolbush@dialogic.com ||...!uunet!dialogic!kolbush
Software Engineer           |                                            
Dialogic Corporation        |      Replace this sheet with
#include <stddisclaimer.h>  |        the appropriate tab.
From: gelinas@CAM.ORG (Daniel Gelinas)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Forget hatching brine shrimp, new question.
Date: 2 Jan 93 23:55:19 GMT
Organization: Communications Accessibles Montreal, Quebec Canada

Sorry to disturb people by asking that question without reading the FAQ.  I
have now read it and have a different question to ask.

Most live food seems fairly easy to culture.  What do you people find is the
best live food, considering fish nutrition, availability, ease in culturing,
ect...

I ask this question because I used to think brine shrimp was the only thing
I could grow at home for cheap.  After reading the FAQ I noticed something else
which might actually be better called Daphnia.  These organisms seem a bit
better choice, as they will survive in fresh water, and help clean it.  The 
only problem I see is that the water it is suggested you culture these things
in must stink to all bloody hell!  

I must grow these things inside, as I live in quebec canada and right now
it's a nice 14 degrees below 0(celcius) so any water put outside will freeze,
and long before that will kill anything in it.

Thank you for your responses.
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: bhaskar@brtph181.bnr.ca (Shaji Bhaskar)
Subject: Re: Keeping plants alive.... how?!?
Organization: BNR Inc. RTP, NC
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1992 14:03:16 GMT

In article <1992Dec30.020632.7605@ultra.com> jimh@ultra.com (Jim Hurley) writes:
>In <1992Dec29.021200.8168@brtph560.bnr.ca> bhaskar@brtph181.bnr.ca (Shaji Bhaskar) writes:
>
>[...]
>
>-->2. Inadequate nutrients - you can get many plant foods on the market.
>-->The consensus on this network seems to be that with fish present, you
>-->only need trace elements and possibly laterite in the gravel.  With an
>-->already set-up tank, it is too late anyway to consider many other
>-->substrate nutrients.
>
>Not too late: the laterite plugs that Aquarium Products sells work very well
>for me.

Jim, I think you misread what I wrote.  I did not say it was too late
for laterite/trace elements.

I, too, use the AP laterite plugs.  Some time ago, I saw some catalog
that advertized laterite by the pound, real cheap - at about $8.
Anyone know where I can get some?  I am planning to set up a 75 or 100
gallon plant tank soon.

-Shaji.
-- 
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Shaji Bhaskar     BNR, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709     (bhaskar@bnr.ca) 
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier)
Subject: Re: Snails keep dying
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 92 02:32:35 GMT

Dean Switzer (switzer@beta.uleth.ca) wrote:
: So will the copper cause any harm to the other life? Should I replace
: the gravel or wait for 16 water changes before introducing another
: invert.?

Well, Cu *is* a poison, but one that vertebrates can handle
(in small quantities).  Activated carbon *may* remove it from
your water (I've heard conflicting claims on this score).
In general, snails are very hardy creatures - after a few 50%+
water changes, they should be able to do all right in your
tank (no guarentees).

BTW, Cu is hard on plants, too - I've wiped out a tankful of
algae and duckweed trying to kill snails (the snails survived!).

--
"They thought to use and shame me but I win out by nature, because a true
freak cannot be made.  A true freak must be born." - K. Dunn, _Geek Love_

Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: kncarp@nicsn1.monsanto.com (Kevin N. Carpenter)
Subject: Re: (M)(R) Back up power for reef tank?
Organization: Monsanto Company
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL3
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1992 03:36:08 GMT

: 
: I was recently asked what I would do with my 45 gallon reef tank in
: the event of a power outage.  I thought a bit and really couldn't come
: up with a good answer.  All I could think of was the battery powered
: air pumps I seen forsale.  Anyone with a reef tank have any experience
: with this?  Are a couple of battery powered air pumps enough for a
: unpredicted power outage?  Obviously bubbles breaking the surface are
: better then nothing at all, but are they enough?
: 
: I only have a 45 I wonder what Steve would do with his mega reef. . . .
: 

I don't know about Steve, but I have one surface agitation powerhead on 
my PC's UPS.  The UPS is primarily there to allow me to gracefully shutdown
the PC.  Once the computer draw is turned off, the UPS will run the power
head for a day or two (power heads typically only draw 5-10 watts). In a sense,
this makes for a rather reliable "battery powered" device.
--
Kevin Carpenter       Internet:  kncarp@nicsn1.monsanto.com
Monsanto Company      Fidonet:   1:100/215.0 (home)
St. Louis, Missouri, U.S.A.
Opinions expressed are those of the author, not the company he works for.
From: ulf.sandas@compart.fi (Ulf Sandas) 
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Keeping plants alive....
Date: 29 Dec 92 19:42:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: ComPart BBS, Helsinki-Finland, +358 0 506 3329 (14 lines V.32bis)
Reply-To: ulf.sandas@compart.fi (Ulf Sandas) 

R.>Path: fuug!mcsun!uknet!bnr.co.uk!bnrgate!nott!torn!cs.utexas.edu!zapho
R.>From: rudin@ohstpy.mps.ohio-state.edu
R.>Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
R.>Subject: Keeping plants alive.... how?!?
R.>Date: 29 Dec 92 00:34:17 GMT
R.>
R.>HI!

Hi there!

R.>
R.>I have a question about keeping store-bought plants alive in
R.>fresh water aquariums. Mine always seem to die. What do I need?
R.>More light? More of some chemical? Any help would be aprreciated!
R.>

Not TOO much of air filtration, a lot of light (plant light), maybe some 
iron and once a week some aqua plant nutrition.

Uffe

---
 . WinQwk 2.0 a#0 . Unregistered Evaluation Copy
        
----
+--------------------------------------------------+
| Helsinki, Finland  -  Number 1 BBS in Finland    |
+--------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,sci.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: daf@herky.cs.uiowa.edu (David Forsyth)
Subject: (was - Re: Snails keep dying) Cu and Liquid Iron (F)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 17:45:35 GMT
Organization: University of Iowa, Iowa City, IA, USA

From article <1992Dec22.023235.17589@cs.ucla.edu>, by frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier):
> Dean Switzer (switzer@beta.uleth.ca) wrote:
> : So will the copper cause any harm to the other life? Should I replace
> : the gravel or wait for 16 water changes before introducing another
> : invert.?
> 
> Well, Cu *is* a poison, but one that vertebrates can handle
> (in small quantities).  Activated carbon *may* remove it from
> your water (I've heard conflicting claims on this score).
> In general, snails are very hardy creatures - after a few 50%+
> water changes, they should be able to do all right in your
> tank (no guarentees).
> 
> BTW, Cu is hard on plants, too - I've wiped out a tankful of
> algae and duckweed trying to kill snails (the snails survived!).
> 
> --
> "They thought to use and shame me but I win out by nature, because a true
> freak cannot be made.  A true freak must be born." - K. Dunn, _Geek Love_
> 
> Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier

Anyone used Liquid Iron, a Ferti Lome (sp?) product?  Appears to have no
Nitrogen or Phosporus, but does have a little Copper in there, along with
Manganese and a host of other good things.  Does it do good?

(if this is a repost, I'm sorry, I'm having trouble with the posting
program)

regards

daf

Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
From: tom@dynamo.ecn.purdue.edu (Tom McCain)
Subject: Re: [M] Lighting
Keywords: lighting,marine
Organization: Purdue University, West Lafayette, IN
Date: 31 Dec 92 04:48:58 GMT

cowan@cerianthus.pinetree.org (Darin Cowan) writes:

: I have a 27 gal marine aquarium.  Currently it is being illuminated by
: a single 24", 20W corallife 50% actinic/50% daylight with reflector.  I feel
: this is too low and am planning to move up to a double light fixture (20W blue
: and the 20W corallife).

: The tank has corals and other inverts.  Is my choice of double fixture and 
: light adequate?


It would probably help but if your thinking of using a All Glass twin
tube strip, they use 18" bulbs not 24".  Also they do not have a
polished reflector like the 36" and 48" lights do.  Is this a hex
tank?

--tom
--
	    Tom McCain            tom@dynamo.ecn.purdue.edu


 Bank error in your favor.  Collect $200.
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: jimh@ultra.com (Jim Hurley)
Subject: Re: (M)(R) Back up power for reef tank?
Organization: Ultra Network Technologies
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 92 21:59:25 GMT

In <1992Dec30.183440.25656@sx.mont.nec.com> ynecelc@sx.mont.nec.com (Ellison Chan) writes:

[...]
-->-  Of course, you can't bring you car into the house, so you will 
-->   need to have a car battery at you disposal.
[...]

Two 6 volt lantern batteries in series would be more convenient
and would probably last quite a while.
-- 
Jim Hurley --> jimh@ultra.com  ...!ames!ultra!jimh  (408) 922-0100
Ultra Network Technologies / 101 Daggett Drive / San Jose CA 95134
From: cadet@spade.rutgers.edu (Uniquely TiJean)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: portuguese man of war
Date: 3 Jan 93 07:13:54 GMT
Distribution: alt.aquaria
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

My ex-apartmentmate left me a fishie with the designation
"portuguese man of war"
Isn't it a piranha? How do I feed it?
Is it a tropical fish? Can I get him some company?
ie other fishes? 

Do I need a filter for my tank? ETc!
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:6378 rec.aquaria:9787 sci.aquaria:1826