HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: steveh@psg.com (Steve Hampson)
Subject: Re: Drill Press Arbor
Organization: Pacific Systems Group, Portland Oregon US
Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1993 09:54:00 GMT

In article <1ilii4INNnq6@crcnis1.unl.edu> vporguen@unlinfo.unl.edu (victor porguen) writes:
>ag900@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (David Burris) writes:
>
>
>>Is there any way to prevent a M.T. drill press arbor from slipping out
>>of the spindle ?
>
>>-- 
>>ag900@cleveland.freenet.edu
>
>Yes - by using an accurate Morse taper in both pieces!
>Tapers come in two varieties: self-holding and self-releasing.
>The difference is caused by the angle - at some point, a
>self-holding taper becomes self-releasing if the angle is increased 
>just a bit.
>
>Morse tapers are supposed to be self-holding.

Be sure both surfaces are completely clean.  A shotgun cleaning mop of
the correct size is great for the female side.

It is possible that the surfaces may have become scored from previous
abuse.  It is possible to ream the female part and replace the male
part.

Morse taper come with and without tangs.  Perhaps the female end on
your drill press will accept a tang.
-- 
Steve Hampson                       steveh@m2xenix.psg.com
17624 Schalit Way                   home (503) 636-6966
Lake Oswego, OR  97035              work (503) 222-9571
USA
From: ag900@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (David Burris)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Drill Press Arbor
Date: 9 Jan 1993 00:59:40 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: ag900@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (David Burris)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc4.ins.cwru.edu


Is there any way to prevent a M.T. drill press arbor from slipping out
of the spindle ?

-- 
ag900@cleveland.freenet.edu
From: callas@eris.enet.dec.com (Jon Callas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sigh.  What have I done now? (Re: Question about this Newsgroup)
Date: 12 Jan 93 21:42:32 GMT
Reply-To: callas@eris.enet.dec.com (Jon Callas)
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation


re: Craftsmen lacking "higher" skills:

Mostly, this is simply a case of educated people (like the ones who write
dictionaries) denigrating the skills of the uneducated.

I'm a silversmith, and one with training also in chemistry and metallurgy. My
teacher, who has been a silversmith for over 40 years, is a fine artist, and
she's not terribly skillful or even interested in the lower-level stuff. Note
I called it lower-level, not higher-level. I call it that because it's details.
My teacher can tell you all about what happens if you don't anneal, and if 
someone wants more detail, she sends them to me, and I bore them with talk
about crystalline structures until they're sorry they asked. :-) The details
are details. Knowing how much to push the silver, knowing what color represents
what temperature (the red you get before you get reticulation, for example), is
really more important than what the temperature *is*.

Consequently, I lack patience with my fellow educated types who seem not to be
able to appreciate a different set of skills, and use clever language.

	Jon
From: kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM (John Kopf,D,6305)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to tin-coat a Copper or Brass pan
Date: 4 Jan 93 19:42:06 GMT
Reply-To: kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems

In any case, avoid the use of solder.  While there are pure tin solders, most solder
has a significant amount of lead in it.

The main purpose of tinning metal is "taste" -- copper ions dissolved in food (esp.
acid foods) leaves a strong "metalic" taste in your mouth;  the tin prevents this
(that's why "tin" cans are used...as much for the resulting taste as for rust 
prevention.

John Kopf
From: stuartf@sequent.com (Stuart Friedberg)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Smith sought (Oregon/Washington only)
Date: 4 Jan 93 23:40:02 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems Inc.

Oregon/Washington states only, rest of North America please ignore.

I'm looking for a smith somewhere reasonably near Portland for instruction
in forge work.  I am a reasonable home shop machinist (scratch built
9x21 lathe), have read about forge work, but have no experience.

Stu Friedberg (stuartf@sequent.com)  502-777-5174 (msg any hour)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: Propane torch recommendations (silver soldering)
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 22:35:54 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 I recommend you hit the local pawn shops and see if anybody has a plumber's
torch outfit - a small acetylene bottle, a gauge and torch. I got one for 
$60 and that wasn't a fabulous deal. No O2, just acetylene/air, but hot 
enough for brazing, silver soldering, etc. and quite a bit hotter than 
propane/air.
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: copeland@lamar.ColoState.EDU (Jeffrey Copeland)
Subject: Re: Copper plating
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 16:28:13 GMT
Organization: Colorado State University, Fort Collins, CO  80523

Another way to bring a copper surface to brass is by heating it.
Bring the brass to a red heat and then pickle it.  The copper that
is brought to the surface can be removed by polishing.  I use this
for contrast in relief pieces of brass.  I polish the copper off of the
raised work and leave it in the recesses.

Jeff Copeland - Atmospheric Science - Colorado State University

By the time I make a million dollars they'll have a coin for it.


Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: Al and Steel : some questions
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 20:49:31 GMT

tarumph@uncc.edu (Timothy Allen Rumph) writes:
: 
: Waxes and oils are your best bets. The rust resistant treatments work mostly by making
:      the rust not fall off rather than preventing it in the first place. Also, any 
:      plating is not period (no electricity.)

Wrong. Plating was very common - or at least, guilding was.

You don't need electricity to plate an object. If you don't believe me, 
dissolve some copper sulfate in sulfuric acid. Now, dip an iron nail into
the solution. You will see that a coat of copper is immediately plated onto
the nail.

Bill
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: chuckh@apex.com (Chuck Huffington)
Subject: Re: Welding aluminmum bellhousing
Keywords: welding, aluminum, help
Organization: Apex Computer Company
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 22:18:33 GMT

TIG welding is what you want.

In article <103874@netnews.upenn.edu> noorder@aurora.cis.upenn.edu (Alexander Noordergraaf) writes:
>
>	Howdy all,
>
>	I finally finished taking apart the transmission on a friends '88 
>Honda CRX Si. At some point in its life an object hit the underside of the 
>aluminum bell housing hard enough to break off a small piece and cause a
>inch long crack.  Since the housing is out anyway (for a new clutch) I 
>would like to repair this damage. I have access to both arc and oxy/acetylene
>welding. Which would be better? I looked up aluminum welding in the 
>Lincoln Arc Welding Reference book I have and they don't mention 
>arc welding with aluminum. Can I successfully weld aluminum with arc or
>gas? What type or rod/filler should I use? The area that should be
>filled is less than an inch square.
>
>	Any and all advice appreciated, Alex (noorder@aurora.cis.upenn.edu)
>
>
From: cbl@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu (Chris Luchini)
Subject: Re: Oil/Water/Air hardening tool steel
Reply-To: cbl@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu
Organization: High Energy Physics, University of Illinois, Urbana-Champaign
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 17:24:22 GMT

In article <1993Jan5.091108.386@news.uwyo.edu>, jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu writes:
>In article <C0CzoK.8rE@news.cso.uiuc.edu>, cbl@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu (Chris Luchini) writes:
>> I'm trying to make a swaging die to expand bullets. 
>
>Have you tried contacting Corbin or RCBS to see if they either have one
>the right size in stock, or might make one for you?  I have heard that
>RCBS will happily make all sorts of oddball sizing dies, so I wonder if
>either company would tackle a swaging die of non-standard size.  The cost
>might be a bit more than normal, and of course it kills the do-it-yourself
>nature of such a project, but the results might be just what you need.


	Corbin wants $220+ for the die, RCBS doesn't make bullet
	swaging dies.

>
>As for getting the right size after hardening, you'll probably have
>to grind it, as few tools can nicely cut hardened steel.  An idea here

	The staff machinist claims that TungstenCarbide would work. He's
	got a TC boring bar he'll let me use.

[snip]
>Also, I'm not sure if you want the die to be fully hardened or just
>case-hardened; it sounds like you've already done some research on that.
>

	Fully hardened.
*1110 W. Green/Urbana IL 61801/217-333-0505/cbl@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Welding aluminmum bellhousing
Date: 7 Jan 93 00:51:57 GMT
Organization: LLNL

In article <103874@netnews.upenn.edu>, noorder@aurora.cis.upenn.edu (Alexander Noordergraaf) writes:
> 
> Can I successfully weld aluminum with arc or
> gas? What type or rod/filler should I use? The area that should be
> filled is less than an inch square.
> 
> 	Any and all advice appreciated, Alex (noorder@aurora.cis.upenn.edu)
> 
> 
It's actually a tad more complicated that two other posters have indicated
so far.  It's a bell housing, so it's oily.  Even TIG welding will require
that you have the area to be welded cleaned and chemically etched to
get a good surface.  My advice: it'll cost you about $30 bucks to have
a reputable welding shop fill in the hole.  For a small job it isn't worth
the 3 or 4 bell housings you'd go through learning how to do it.
From: jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Thread Tapping Gizzmos
Date: 4 Jan 93 18:27:45 MST
Distribution: world
Organization: University of Wyoming - Laramie, WY

In article <C0BDqI.DzC@ddsw1.mcs.com>, arf@ddsw1.MCS.COM (Jack Schmidling) writes:
> I am in the market for a drill press tapping attachment for small
> screws up to 1/4 - 20.  The only thing I come up with is a $170
> gizzmo and an even more expensive one in the McMaster Carr catalog.  Surly there is something less expensive out there.
> 
> I found that a cheapo screwdriver adapter works ok for small threats but
> I have wrecked three of them on 1/4 threads in aluminum.
> 
> Anyone got any ideas?
> 
> js

It's not clear if you mean a tapping attachment that is actually
powered by the drill press (in which case, as someone else pointed
out, $170 may not be that bad) or if you just want to use the press
as a guide to ensure straight threads.  If the latter, Brownell's
(see FAQ) sells the B-Square Tru Tapper for around $40 (as of my
slightly old catalog; # 122-160-100).

Note that most hand taps require that you go in a way, then back out
a bit to break the chips.  If you are using a hand tap, powered, then
the breakage may simply be caused by chip buildup, and you should use
taps designed for production machines.  This may mean a 2-flute tap
instead of 3 or 4, but I'm now getting well outside my knowlege base!

As someone else suggested, use a good lube.  I believe cutting oils
need to be specifically formulated for the metal being cut; some
steel cutting oils do horribly for aluminum, though I believe some
claim to be usable on both.

Happy tool-hunting!

Jim
From: kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM (John Kopf,D,6305)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Whats better for making blades ?
Date: 4 Jan 93 19:32:38 GMT
Reply-To: kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems

The purpose of the firepot (the depression below the fire) is to hold enough coals so 
that the air blowing through the hot coals is stripped of oxygen BEFORE it gets to the 
metal and burns it.  That's why it is a bad idea to be able to see the bottom of the
forge through the fire -- it means that air can get in at the metal.

The biggest difference between coal and gas forges (aside from preference) is that
gas is easier to use and can give a more uniform heat to the metal, where as coal
is more convenient for localized heating and can reach higher temperatures (such as
welding heat) than is convenient in a gas forge.

John Kopf

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Subject: Re: Brass Casting 
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 01:38:23 GMT
Organization: ddsw1.MCS.COM Contributor, Chicago, IL

 
 Article 143 (18 more) in rec.crafts.metalworking:
 From: jmorton@euler.Berkeley.EDU (John Morton)
 
 > Someone who knows more about this than me could probably
 suggest a household or lab substance that works for flux.
 
 Borax is the normal flux for brass.
 From: copeland@lamar.ColoState.EDU (Jeffrey Copeland)
 
 >Proper casting is done in "investment" a mix of plaster and 
 silica...
 
 Thank you.  I bought a 5 gal bucket of this stuff and 
 thought I was ripped off.  It sure looks like plaster of 
 Paris to me.
 
 > plaster and  fine sand may be an ok substitute.  Other 
 options are wet sand, tufa stone, soft fire brick and 
 cuttlefish bone. 
 
You might also look for some stuff called Petrobond.  It is casting
sand with an oil base binder that requires no mixing, wetting.  Just
pound away.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: copeland@lamar.ColoState.EDU (Jeffrey Copeland)
Subject: Re: Copper plating
Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1993 04:57:07 GMT
Organization: Colorado State University, Fort Collins, CO  80523

In article <1993Jan4.001843.16519@exucom.com> cyberman@exucom.com (Stephen R. Phillips) writes:
>
>I was attempting to copper plate soft soldered material with copper

what was the material or was the soft solder a major portion?

>using copper sulfate a copper anode and a the object as the cathode.
>
>The result was a black sooty substance instead of Cu!  

was the sooty stuff sandlike grains that easily rubbed off,  if so
sounds like you burned it (to much current)
>
>1:	I was using electronics solder 60/40 (or is it 40/60?)
>2:	I used tap water to mix the CuSo4 solution.  
try  24oz copper sulfate
     5-8 oz sulfuric acid
     1 gallon distilled water
     1/10 oz molasses (brightens the copper and decreases its grainines
			trust me)
>3:	I am using a variable current at 30 volts.
     use a low voltage 1-10 volts
     very low amperage <2amps
>4:	I have no clue to EXACTLY what I'm doing.
>

Jeff Copeland - Atmospheric Science - Colorado State University
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Al and Steel : some questions
Date: 6 Jan 93 15:47:03 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL


 Here's a suggestion - how about using aluminum for the form/strength and 
then getting some thin, mild sheet steel and wrapping the piece? It would
appear to be steel, rust & all, but be lighter. The thinner the sheet, the
easier to make it conform to the shape. In fact, this could also be done over
things like fiberglass, if you wanter to make exotic shapes. Very thin steel
could be burnished into shape, down to fairly fine detail. A good adhesive
or frequent riveting might be needed to make it stay put and not sound 
"tinny"; a composite overlay might not make the proper clanking noises when 
hit though.
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: stuartf@sequent.com (Stuart Friedberg)
Subject: Re: Carbide Grades
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems Inc.
Date: Sat, 9 Jan 93 02:22:47 GMT

jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu writes:
>I note that there are many grades of (tungsten?) carbide cutting tools, such
>as C2 for cast iron, and C6 for steel.  I was wondering just what the
>difference is in the grades.  Is it the formulation of the carbide itself,

Yes.  Hardness, brittleness, and resistance to cratering are some
of the things the formulators can play with.  C2 is harder so as
to deal with the carbides intrinsic to cast iron, but less resistant
to cratering.  C6 is more resistant to cratering, tougher, but not
as hard.

Cratering is a process where bits of the cutting tool get pulled
out of the face of the tool (the surface over which the chip slides)
behind the edge.  When the crater gets large enough, the whole
edge gives away.

Please don't ask me about the "precision boring" grades C4 and C8,
because I haven't a clue.

>For example, if I want to get a set of lathe bits, should I really get
>a set of C2 and C6 (say), or will C6 do everything a C2 will do?

In the home shop, you can freely use either type for just about anything.
Lifetime may be reduced, but that's probably not an important issue,
although a production shop would worry about it as an economic issue.

If you're considering the standard pre-brazed shapes, and not
indexable tooling, I think you should buy a box of HSS squares
as well as some carbide square shank bits.  HSS stands up to
grinding special sizes and profiles much better than the brazed
carbides.  Cutting things like retaining ring grooves is *so* much
easier when you grind a tool to fit the job.  The niftiest one
I've done so far is a cutter for a .029" wide internal groove inside
a .25" ID bore.

Stu Friedberg (stuartf@sequent.com)
From: steveh@psg.com (Steve Hampson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Propane torch recommendations (silver soldering)
Date: 5 Jan 93 21:29:03 GMT
Article-I.D.: psg.1993Jan5.212903.4038
Distribution: usa
Organization: Pacific Systems Group, Portland Oregon US

In article <1icqdaINNdrj@tamsun.tamu.edu> markf@cs.tamu.edu (Mark A Fleming) writes:
>     I'd like to get into silver soldering in a bigger way, so I'm looking to
>replace the little bottle torch I've been using.  In a back section of Kozo
>Hiraoka's "Building the Shay" is a picture of the torch he uses.  It has a
>range of tip sizes and uses a standard 20lb LP tank for fuel.  I'd like
>something that can put out a fair amount of heat, since I'll be building
>boilers for two 1/2" scale locos in the near future.  Any suggestions as to
>torch brand or supplier?

Primus in Sweden has a line of torches under the Sievert name.  The tips
range from small ones for soldering to a tip that produces over 500,000 BTUs!
I use some of the larger ones for blacksmithing and preheating before welding.

For your application I would recommend the Siever-matic torch.  This one has
a piezo igniter in the handle and a choice of ten different tips.

For more information contact:

	Dick Soderberg
	RJS Enterprises
	P.O. Box 475
	Whitinsville, MA  01588
	(508) 278-2443
-- 
Steve Hampson                       steveh@m2xenix.psg.com
17624 Schalit Way                   home (503) 636-6966
Lake Oswego, OR  97035              work (503) 222-9571
USA
From: jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Magazines or book recommendations
Date: 5 Jan 93 15:55:39 MST
Distribution: world
Organization: University of Wyoming - Laramie, WY

In article <1993Jan5.110013.563@doc.bmd.trw.com>, jharres@doc.bmd.trw.com writes:
> I ask this question right before Xmas and then went on vacation so I 
> missed any responses.  
> 
> Are there any good magazines out there that are for metalworking? This
> is for lathe, mill, or other types of working metals.  

Check out the FAQ, posted earlier this week (Sunday evening)
(unless your news system keeps items for only a day or two).

> What are good machinists (lathe/mills) books for the beginner to
> intermediate hobbyist?

Again, check out the FAQ.  Though it probably needs a few more suggestions
in this area.

I can e-mail the FAQ to you if it's not still on your news system.

Jim Kirkpatrick
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: tgillesp@sloth.mlb.semi.harris.com (Tom Gillespie)
Subject: Questions on welders (or is there a FAQ?)
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 21:46:51 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

Is there a FAQ for this group on welders ?  From some of the posts I gathered
that this is a new group ?  Anyway, here are my questions...

I am looking at buying a welder for small home shop use.  I mostly fix/fabricate
tools for my woodworking shop.  Maybe I would do some crafts/artwork in the
future if I get good nuff.  

I am leaning toward one of those new small wire feed MIG melders offered by 
everybody and his brother cause they are small and inexpensive (relatively),
and they can weld a wide variety of metals (I think).

But what I can't figure out in shopping for a MIG, is how to identify which
ones can weld aluminum, SS, and thin sheet steel ?  Some ads explicitly say
so; others don't.  Is it the type and size of wire, gas, or amperage that 
dictates this ? 

Thanks for any input.

Tom Gillespie
tgillesp@mlb.semi.harris.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: gcohen@mailer.cc.fsu.edu (Gregory Cohen)
Subject: Re: Brass Casting 
Organization: Florida State University
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 93 14:00:33 GMT

In article <C0GE5v.C4A@oryx.com> xdepec@chevy.NoSubdomain.NoDomain (preston e chaney jr) writes:
>I am interested is casting a Brass Western style belt buckle.
>To this end I made a woodcarving of the design and made a 
>plaster of paris (negative) mold of the woodcarving. As a test
>I melted linotype metal with a welding torch and dripped it into
>the mold with satisfactory results. I am now wondering if I can
>cast brass ( at 1700+ deg.) into a plaster mold. Also is there a special
>Brass for casting or can I melt brass rod. Is the temp critical or 
>can I melt the brass in a crucible with the welding torch and pour.
>If special supplies are required for casting where can they be obtained.
> 
>Thanks
>Preston Chaney
>Email pchaney@oryx.com

It is quite possible to do if you dry the plaster in a kiln first (get all
that H20 out of it.  I pour when the Mold is still hot (right out of the 
kiln).  I have never tried it otherwise, but I'm told that it can lead to your mold cracking (and exploding) with the expanding h20 in the plaster.  

-GReg

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: karish@pangea.Stanford.EDU (Chuck Karish)
Subject: Re: Sigh.  What have I done now? (Re: Question about this Newsgroup)
Organization: Mindcraft, Inc.
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 93 16:25:44 GMT

In article <1993Jan04.225621.10823@i88.isc.com> jeq@i88.isc.com
(Jonathan E. Quist) writes:
>I've known a few engineers who were
>brilliant, but had either discarded (or never had) the attention to
>detail necessary to realize their designs without an able craftsman
>to do the work.

This is an important observation.

It's not widely enough recognized that much of the critical
knowledge that makes manufacturing processes work is not
accessible by using design cookbooks.  It's not black magic,
it's just the sort of cutting-edge detail that's being
used before it's formalized because it's needed right now.

This sort of knowledge is generated by observent workers,
regardless of their job title or level of education.  My
definition of a craftsman would be a worker who has enough
knowledge and experience to use and to acquire this sort of
know-how.  The characterization of craftsmen as ignorant menial
workers does not match any usage of the word with which I'm
familiar.
--

    Chuck Karish          karish@mindcraft.com
    (415) 323-9000 x117   karish@pangea.stanford.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking