HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: rj_sande@lentil.uwe.ac.uk (Rob Sanders)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: tach drop & engine stumbling
Date: 10 Nov 92 10:11:53 GMT
Reply-To: rj_sande@csd.bristol-poly.ac.uk
Organization: The University of the West of England (The Magic Roundabout)

leavitt@mordor.hw.stratus.com (Will Leavitt) writes:
|> 
|> I've got a 1985 Golf (165K miles) with what appears to be an
|> increasingly intermitant ignition problem.  While driving, the
|> tachometer will suddenly drop a thousand rpm, hunt around, and bounce
|> back up.  The engine stumbles badly and the car shakes; after anywhere
|> few seconds to a minute, everything returns to normal.  

etc.

Not sure about the tacho dropping, but I had the same symptoms in my 83
(non GTI) Golf. I thought it a fuel problem as there was poor flow through
filter with a lot of bubbles.... After replacing fuel pump, filter & flexible
fuel lines, cleaning the carb., the problem was still there. Finally cured it
when I realised the fuel intake pipe in the tank was blocked. Cured that for 
free by simply blowing down the engine bay end of the fuel line. The obstr-
uction was cleared like a pea from a pea shooter & Hey Presto !

Now I'll have to clean the tank out sometime. Hope this helps ...

Rob

rj_sande@csd.uwe.ac.uk
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: drew@ladymacb.cs.colorado.edu (Drew Eckhardt)
Subject: Re: Dot-5 fluid
Organization: University of Colorado at Boulder
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1992 05:10:57 GMT

In article <1992Nov6.055521.13600@dsd.es.com> sbender@navajo.dsd.es.com (Steve Bender) writes:
>I use the Dot-5 in my TR4's Girling system and have no complaints.
>Aside from having to re-bleed the system a couple days after first
>filling the system, it has required zero maintenance in 3-years
>and performs perfectly.  Some people claim that it should not be
>used in extreme (racing) conditions which may have some validity,

Silicon based fluids are somewhat compressable when hot.  

>but its greatest redeeming factor is, as you mentioned, that it
>will not harm paint.

Silicon fluids also have a higher wet boiling point than glycol based 
fluids do.  In a street car, where the fluid spends months or years 
picking up moisture from the air, this is probably a good thing.

-- 
Microsoft is responsible for propogating the evils it calls DOS and Windows, 
IBM for AIX (appropriately called Aches by those having to administer it), but 
marketing's sins don't come close to those of legal departments.
Boycott AT&T for their absurd anti-BSDI lawsuit.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: (Eric Youngblood)
Subject: Re: Bleed Brakes After Changing Pads?
Reply-To: Peon w/o Email priv (Eric Youngblood)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Richardson, Tx
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 17:08:58 GMT


I bleed the entire system each time I change pads.  This may not be necessary
every time, but considering the time between pad changes (I avg every 2 years)
Its nice to get the old cooked moisture laiden brake fluid out. It is usually
a brown color and is sometimes dark.

Its not that difficult or time consuming and I think it helps to reduce internal
corrosion.

$0.02
Ericy
From: romansks@unvax.union.edu (Steve Romanski)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Recommendations for one-man brake bleeding tools?
Keywords: hydraulic brake fluid bleeding
Date: 12 Nov 92 16:05:01 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Union College, Schenectady, NY

andrew@airs.com (Andrew Evans) writes:

>Hi net.motorheads,

>I need a tool that will allow me to bleed my brakes without an
>assistant to pump the brake pedal.  In my car's Haynes manual they

>Thanks,

>-- 
>Andrew Evans (andrew@airs.com) - Infinity Development Systems - Waltham, MA

I just use a piece of tubing, I prefer clear like from an aquarium pump
but anything will work like a piece of vacuume tube, and a clean glass
jar.

Then connect tube to bleeder nozzle and place other end in a glass jar.
Open the bleeder valve a little and then
just pump the peddle until there are no more bubbles comming
out of the tube.

The jar will fill with brake fluid as you pump the peddle
MAKE SURE YOU KEEP an eye on the resivour DON't pump it dry, and
always keep it full with clean brake fluid.

When the brake peddle is released it will just
suck some of the brake fluid that is in the jar back in and not air.
When you are ready just tighten the nozzle while the hose is still attached.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Analog Brake Light
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 11 Nov 92 16:08:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> Has anyone seen or heard of a brake light system that indicates the
-> degree of deceleration of the vehicle?   Maybe a different number of
-> lights, or increasing light intensity, or flashing lights, etc.
->
-> It sure would be nice to have such a device during rush-hour traffic!

 GM played with such a system as far back as the early '50s.  Quite
rightfully, they decided that if someone wasn't going to pay attention
to the lights already on the car, they wouldn't pay attention to any
further light show.
From: sandrar@garnet.berkeley.edu (Sandi Rollins)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Engine Challenge, 64-65 Ford Falcon.  Advice needed!
Date: 12 Nov 1992 17:54:29 GMT
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
Distribution: ca
NNTP-Posting-Host: garnet.berkeley.edu

From agate!garnet.berkeley.edu!sandrar Thu Nov 12 09:48:28 PST 1992
Article: 47563 of rec.autos.tech
From: sandrar@garnet.berkeley.edu (Sandi Rollins)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Where to Buy Engine for 1964 Ford Falcon in Bay Area?
Date: 9 Nov 1992 19:30:44 GMT
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
Distribution: ba
NNTP-Posting-Host: garnet.berkeley.edu

Help!  My SO is about to do an engine swap on his 1964 Falcon.  He wants to 
replace the 170 with a 200 (I believe it's the 1965 Mustang engine...?)  So far
he's been quoted about $1100 for the rebuilt version, 3 yr, 36K warranty.
His big preference is for a LOCAL Bay Area shop that will use a NEW cam shaft; 
most seem to just regrind an old one, with no guarantees.

Of course, if there's any info on local Ford clubs, etc. who could steer us
in the right direction, I'm more than happy to try them.  So, net-gods, any 
advice or leads?  

He wants to do the work over Thanksgiving weekend, so any recommendations
of good places to go are most appreciated.  Any help??  E-mail is fine,
posting too.

Thanks,

Sandi



From: leonglaw@hpsgm2.sgp.hp.com (Lawrence LEONG)
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 12:53:23 GMT
Subject: Re: Coasting with auto tranny's...
Organization: HP Singapore
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

In rec.autos.tech, vbreault@rinhp750.gmr.com (Val Breault) writes:

|In article <Bx6HyI.FLw@uxa.ecn.bgu.edu> gsu0001@uxa.ecn.bgu.edu (Michael Linden) writes:
|
|     I am interested in finding out exactly what kind of
|   damage/excessive-wear can be caused by putting an automatic transmission
|   in neutral to coast up to stop signs/lights and while not moving. 
|
|Additional wear will be incurred while disengaging and reengaging the
|low speed clutches.  These are normally engaged when the transmission is 
|put in "drive" and remain engaged until it is put into neutral, park or
|reverse.

I'm curious, since I drive a manual (auto occasionally).  Is it then kinder 
on the engine and/or tranny to leave it in gear at the lights?  Will this
stress the engine/tranny? 

lawrence
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: The Gasaver: what's the deal
From: erkamp@JANUS.ARC.AB.CA (Bob Erkamp)
Date: 6 Nov 92 13:55:21 MDT
Reply-To: erkamp@JANUS.ARC.AB.CA
Organization: Alberta Research Council

In article <12130062@hpmwga.sr.hp.com>, jefftb@hpmwtd.sr.hp.com (Jeff Brown) writes:
>  Has anyone ever heard of something called the "Gasaver" it claims by 
>  injecting platinum into the combustion chamber that it will increase
>  fuel mileage by "up to" 22%. This  uses the same properties of the 
>  catalyic converter. 
>  Any way a call to their 800 number says that it costs $89.00 for 
>  24,000miles worth. It mounts in the pcv line so it can suck it into 
>  the combustion chamber. 
>  To me it sounds like another snake oil thing but I was wondering ig
>  any one has tried it.
>  Thanks
>  Jeff Brown

Can you say 'SCAM'...these guys were investigated about a year ago on 'Market 
Place' (a Canadian consumer watch TV show) and they could fine no measurable 
improvement with this item.

Bob
From: frank@marvin.contex.com (Frank Perdicaro)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Firewall problems, '57 Chevy
Date: 11 Nov 92 14:50:49 GMT
Organization: Xyvision Design Systems

In article <1992Nov10.184001.25495@elroy.jpl.nasa.gov> bobv@spike.Jpl.Nasa.Gov (Bob von Buelow) writes:
>Well, maybe this is the place to ask.  I checked the other auto related
>newsgroups and none of them seemed appropriate, or got no replies.
>
>'57 Chevy 210.  Had it about 2 years after taking it off the hands of my
>teen aged son who decided he really needed a 4x4, and after he broke the
>original 283.  He replace the 283 with a 350 from a 75 Impala and added
>an electronic ignition.
>
>Problem: the ignition is HUGE and rubs against the firewall.  Basically it
>has run fine for the time I've had it, but the last mechanic that did a 
>tune up told me it was arcing thru to the firewall on 1 of the sparkplug
>wires.  Anybody tell me what the standard solutions to this are.  350
>swaps into '57 must be very common.
>
>Future projects: replace the Powerglide with a TH350
>                 change intake manifold and carb (2bbl now) to ???
>                    (has to be CA legal, aren't there some after 
>                     market FI systems that are CA legal?)
>                 exhaust headers
>
Some late model ('89+ ?) GM F-body HEI units are really small.  Much
smaller than the ('73+ ?) toilet-paper-roll sized ones.  And its just a
drop in.  See your local junkyard.

For EFI, there are some good, but expensive solutions out there.
Edelbrock has a complete solution, as does John Lingenfelter.  If I
had all the $, I would go with the Lingenfelter system described in 
Hot Rod this past summer.  It is good.  
For the low-buck approach, you can go with Holly Pro-Jection.  Its ok.
As the car is pre-66, you will not have much difficulty with smog.

Skip the TH350, and go directly for a TH700R4 with 4th gear autolock/
vacuume unlock.  Better gas mileage by far.  I am in process on this
one.  Its a bolt-on with the exception of the lock and the kickdown
cable.  I have spend the past while researching this.

Headers are always interesting.  I would go with complete stainless, 
or at least with those new, patented, great stainless header bolts that 
have circlips and hex & allen heads.  They will not losen unless they
melt -- if they melt, thats the least of your problems.
Do not buy cheap headers; they are an endless headache for a real, 
drivable car.

Oh, and get rid of that mechanical fan.  Get the Summit, or G&S 
fan kits.  Get one with a fixed thermostat, and one with a variable
stat.  Lighter, better gas mileage.  Even my friend's 1991 454 Chevy
ramp truck has electric fans from the factory.  The technology is 
now mature and reliable.


-- 
	 Frank E Perdicaro, Systems Admin, etc.		Xyvision Color Systems
      Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.		101 Edgewater Drive
   inhouse: frank@marvin, x5572				Wakefield MA
outhouse: frank@contex.com, 617-245-4100x5572		018801285
From: mellum@skyler.mavd.honeywell.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Underdrive pullys - Any experiences?
Date: 11 Nov 92 17:51:40 GMT
Article-I.D.: skyler.1992Nov11.115140.1
Organization: Honeywell Systems & Research Center

In article <clogan.03op@redorc.chi.il.us>, clogan@redorc.chi.il.us (Sigmond Freude) writes:
> 
> Underdrive pulleys make a hella lot of difference. I have serpentine underdrive
> pulleys that i put on my boss 302 ranger(yes i have a ranger with a 302 in it)
> bit thats another story. Anyway underdrive pulleys will increase your horses
> about 25-30. You will gain anywhere from .3 to .8 on a quarter mile too. so if
> you are thinking of going with them go ahead!!
> 
Am I missing something, or is this supposed to be humor? 25-30 HP from an
underdrive pulley? 25-30 HP = .3-.8 sec in the 1/4? If my GN picked up .3-.8
seconds for every 25 HP increase I've made, it would be running 9's instead of
low 12's.

Ron
From: v071pzp4@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (Craig L. Cole)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Odd Stalling Problem in '80 Olds Omega
Date: 12 Nov 92 22:59:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

Hmmm. Lately, I've been noticing that my car wants to stall out
when the car approaches a moderate curve at a moderate speed.
It feels like when there is any signifigant side loading on
the car, the engine isn't receiving any fuel.

I'm not trying to pull G's or anything in these turns; it's takes
only a moderate centrifugal load to do it. The car usually
doesn't stall, only because the car exits the turn and the
engine starts receiving fuel again.

It's just an annoyance, but it something I'd like to correct.
Maybe this is common among carburated cars like mine -- something
to do with fuel entry into the carburator.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. E-mail or posting is fine.
Thanks,

Craig Cole
V071PZP4@UBVMS.CC.BUFFALO.EDU
V071PZP4@UBVMS.BITNET
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ravalent@mothra.syr.EDU (Bob Valentine)
Subject: Re: new required dyno emissions tests / Re: New Gasoline Ripoff
Organization: Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 92 15:00:09 EST

In article <1992Nov11.230717.26897@wuecl.wustl.edu> anbo@wuee1.wustl.edu (Albrecht Jander) writes:
>In article <2086.88.uupcb@chaos.lrk.ar.us> dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)  writes:
>>
>>-> Anyone who drives a internal combustion powered vehicle contributes
>>-> to the world emmisions.  I am tired of all of this old car bashing as
>>
>> The largest single polluter in the world is the US Air Force.
>>Collectively, various manufacturing plants and power generation make the
>>USAF look like small potatoes.  Automobiles are actually rather far down
>>on the list.  The "zero emission auto" furor is mainly political.
>>Practically everyone is dependent on cars, so it brings the issues home
>>to the electorate, which usually gets screwed anyway.
>
>The auto may or may not be significant in terms of world wide polution,
>but anyone who lives in one of Americas big cities knows that auto 
>emissions are a BIG problem.
>
>> There's also the raw fact that the majority of the world doesn't give a
>>rat's ass about pollution, and if the US miraculously stopped putting
>>out even a gram of pollution, it wouldn't make that much difference to
>>the world at large.
>
>The majority of the world doesn't give a rat's ass about individuals who
>don't care about reducing pollution, and if they all miraculously got
>asphixiated, it wouldn't make that much difference to the world at large.
>
>Come on, somebody has to be the first one out on the dance floor.  You
>can't expect everyone else to cut down on pullution first before you will
>even consider!  There is such a thing as leadership.

   So, then why are there practically no emissions on large trucks?
Even large pick-up type vehicles can have a "heavy duty emissions" package,
which more or less means that there is no cat, and the emissions 
(HC and/or CO) are allowed to be higher than normal.  Why are there
almost no emissions on >6000gwv trucks.  Go look at some of the larger
delivery trucks.  The emissions sticker reads "saftey only".  When
I see the trucking industry self-police itself about emissions, I'll
start thinking about retro-fitting a cat onto my 71 Olds.

  If there was some kind of incentive, I'd convert my car to run on
LPG.  More BTU/lb, higher octane, burns cleaner.  No problems here.

  Anyway, here (in NY state) there is going to be a waiver system 
on emissions.  If your car won't pass emissions, and you spend >$450
to try and repair it, and it still won't pass, you automatically pass
for the next two years.  This accomplishes nothing but giving some
shop $450 to _TRY_ and fix the problem.  

 Regular civilian-type vehicles are not at the top of the emissions list.
 
>Albrecht Jander
>
>
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>                        Peltier was a cool dude!!

--> Bob
  ----> ravalent@mailbox.syr.edu    |  Napalm  to /bin/dev/null

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: welchb@woods.ulowell.edu
Subject: Re: Lunk, lunk, lunk -- wheel bearings?
Organization: University of Lowell
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 16:31:34 GMT

In article <BxGKLL.GwH@fmsrl7.srl.ford.com>, tgl@slee01.srl.ford.com (Tom Leone) writes:
> eliot@chutney.rtp.dg.com (Topher Eliot) writes:
> : My 80 Civic with 100K miles has started making a little lunk, lunk, lunk
> : sound when turn I left through an intersection (i.e. at greater than driveway
> : speed).  As I recall this is a sign of wheel bearings starting to go.  True?
> 
> No, it's probably your CV (Constant Velocity) joints (since the noise

First you should make sure it is not just a simple case of the lugs nuts
on a wheel being loose.  Jack the car up and try to tighten.
-- 
Brendan Welch, UMass/Lowell, W1LPG,  welchb@woods.ulowell.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hasch@jhunix.hcf.jhu.edu (Veljko Roskar)
Subject: Techron (was Re: RFI:Putting Balls in your gas)
Reply-To: roskar@kavazi.uucp.jhu.edu (Veljko Roskar)
Organization: Acme Money Launderers, Inc.
     
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1992 03:36:58 GMT

In article <k577712@pro-haven.cts.com> shadow@pro-haven.cts.com (Blaine Hufnagle) writes:
->
->Napthalene dissolves to form Naptha in the gas tank.  For instance, Chevron's
->Techron (Techroline) additive is about 90% naptha.
-
>
I've had good experience with Techron, but in cleaning my engine, not boosting
octanes. It's too bloddy expensive though. About $4.50 a 18 oz bottle. For
that money I can get a lot of toluene and naphta from a chemical supply co., 
but I was wondering what that other 10% in Techron is. They call it their
secret ingredient.

Anyone know?
From: daub@hsi.com (Marshall Daub)
Subject: GM QUAD4 COOLANT LEAK
Followup-To: poster
Summary: Anyone have this problem?
Organization: 3M Health Information Systems, Wallingford CT
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 17:44:32 GMT

   I have a 92 GM QUAD4 HO motor in my Beretta. Last week I noticed that my
coolant tank was almost empty after being full. I checked under the motor and
there was coolant puddling on the undercarriage near the AC freon bottle.

   I brought my car, still under warranty, (16K miles) to my local mechanic 
(I avoid dealers whenever possible), and he said that I possibly have a warped
cylinder head. I should say that after refilling the coolant tank, the problem
has not reoccurred, and my mechanic said that perhaps the head surfaces cor-
rected themselves for a better seal.

  There is no white smoke emitting from my exhaust, so the problem does not
appear to be internal, and there is no appreciable loss in performance, or
fluctuations in the water temperature (runs normal).

  Has anyone had a similar experience? If yes, what did you do? Please reply
via email. Thanks in advance.
-- 
**************************************************************************
Marshall Daub				  daub@hsi.com   203-949-0303
3M Health Information Systems 		Wallingford, Connecticut, U.S.A.
**************************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mccorry@ecn.purdue.edu (Steven E. McCorry)
Subject: Digital Instrument Cluster Prob 
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 21:12:49 GMT

Hi - I hope someone might be able to help me.  I've subsribed to this newsgroup
for approx. 2 years now and find it informative.

	I have an 86' Z-24 (Yes, with the infamous 2.8L :)).
Recently, for the past 2 weeks, I've been having a problem with the digital 
instrament cluster fading in and out in intensity - (from normal to completely
gone).  I was wondering if anyone else has had simalar problems with digital 
guages.

I have had the board - the entire cluster - out and have checked it for loose or 
dirty connections but found none.  Also, when the dash does go out, a slap with 
my hand to anywhere on the dashboard will immeadiately bring the display back 
up- temporarily.  

If anone has any ideas - please let me know.  I have yet to find anyone with the
slightest.

Thanks,

Steve McCorry  (mccorry@cn.ecn.purdue.edu)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Recommendations for one-man brake bleedi
From: Steve_Baldwin@kcbbs.gen.nz (Steve Baldwin)
Date: 14 Nov 92 15:47:46 GMT
Organization: Kappa Crucis Unix BBS, Auckland, New Zealand

Here's another simple idea ....

You need two jars or bottles with two pipes through the lid. One pipe 
stops just through the lid and the other goes to the bottom of the jar.

          A ||      B ||
        ____||________||___
       |    ||             |
       |    ||             |

A goes to the bottom.

Take the first jar and put a small amount of fluid into it. Attach a 
length of hose from the bleed nipple to A and put the jar on the ground 
next to the brake. If there isn't enough room  there, you can conect 
the pipe to B and hang the jar upside down above the brake.

Attach a piece of flat card or whatever you have to the lid of the second 
jar so that it can sit over the master cylinder with the cover removed. 
It can be held on the master cylinder with a rubber band or a cable 
tie. Fill this jar with new fluid and place it upside down over the 
master cylinder so that the outside end of pipe A is at the full level 
of the cylinder and outlet B will drop the fluid into the cylinder.

Now just open the bleed valve, pump the pedal a couple of times and 
close the valve again. Couldn't be easier to do. Could be easier to 
describe. :-)

Steve.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rodder@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Jon D. Rodder)
Subject: Re: Firewall problems, '57 Chevy
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin, Austin TX
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 23:15:01 GMT

In article <3122@contex.contex.com> frank@marvin.contex.com (Frank Perdicaro) writes:
>Some late model ('89+ ?) GM F-body HEI units are really small.  Much
>smaller than the ('73+ ?) toilet-paper-roll sized ones.  And its just a
>drop in.  See your local junkyard.

My 1991 Chevy TBI-350 has one of these small HEI ditributors.
Yes, it will drop right in, but there is one catch.  It has NO advance
mechanisms whatsoever.  Its designed to be used with an ECM to
control spark timing.  It would be much cheaper to just buy
a Mallory unilite, and a lot less headaches.

-- 
--=< Jon D. Rodder ----- rodder@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu >=-- 
    \    IRC-Op at tramp.cc.utexas.edu (Rodder)   /
     \    89 Jeep Wrangler - 258/PIECE OF JUNK!  / 
      \        79 Rx-7 - 12A/Holley 4bbl        / 
       \________67 Camaro RS - 350/4spd________/ 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech