HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: zen@hophead (Nick Zentena)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing,alt.beer
Subject: Re: r.c.b.CLASSIFIED SECTION
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 92 09:05:48 EDT
Reply-To: zen%hophead@canrem.com (Nick Zentena)
Organization: The Hop Head Saloon

arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) writes:

> matth@progress.COM (Matthew J. Harper) writes:
> : kswanson@casbah.acns.nwu.edu (Kurt Swanson) writes:
> : 
> : >I think Jack's idea is sound, and fair.  And since he's willing to do all 
> : >work, even more so...
> : >-- 
> : >Kurt Swanson, Dept. of Electrical Engineering and Computer Science,
> : >Northwestern University.  kswanson@nwu.edu
> : 
> :   Except for the fact that he's willing to accept *anything* for sale. 
> : This will include commercial merchandise.  This goes against net policy.
>  
> 
> Usenet is a user defined network. We make the policy and therefore if the
> majority likes the idea, it is not against net policy.

        No the people who pay the freight set the policy.
        Also the anti-commerical policy is quite a
        reasonable requirement.

> :   I also see Jack's MALTMILL, and brewing videos appearing everytime it's
> : posted, but I guess that'd be okay.  Jack doesn't see his MALTMILL sales,
> : which are now over 100, to be a commercial venture.  
>  
> I would be a fool if I did not abide by the same policy as everyone else.
> If brewers had only homemade and private stuff to buy, we would be in deep
> trouble.  I never said the MALTMILL is not a commercial venture.  The
> first one was for me, the rest are to make money.
> :   Just who's definition should we go by?  It can't be Jack's, because he ha
> : a vested interest and is there for biased.  (Before I get flamed for the 
> : previous statement let me back it up with the fact that if he was in a grou
> : to make such a decision for a town body or such he'd be expected to step do
> : for just such a reason.)
> 
> I do not understand why you are being so sleazy.  I defined the project and i
> people want it, we will do it.  You are redefining it and raising strawmen.  
> I see it, the major objection is having to hit the N key once a week.

        Why is he being sleazy? Your the one turning this
        into personal attacks. He sets out a perfectly
        reasonable point of view. You said that the users
        set policy. Does that mean only you?

        Nick

*****************************************************************************
I drink Beer I don't collect cute bottles!
zen%hophead@canrem.com
*****************************************************************************
From: ciaran@county.lmt.mn.org (Ciaran Benson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: What next?
Date: 11 Aug 92 19:24:43 GMT
Reply-To: ciaran@county.lmt.mn.org (Ciaran Benson)
Organization: LaserMaster Technologies, Minneapolis, MN

>" Okay, my first kit homebrew is about ready to
>bottle, but I yearn to make something a little
>more sophisticatede than theBetty Crocker
>"just add water" brew.  What should my next
>step up in brewing sophisticatione entail?
>
>                       Cheers,
>                         Tom"

  Specialty grains !!  Specialty grains !!  Specialty grains !!

  I started adding a couple pounds of specialty grains to the
water as it was coming up to a boil, then scooping them out
once I had a rolling boil, and the water I had to put my 
extract in looked ready to ferment !!  Brewhahahahaha >>cough<<
>>wheeze<< hahahahaha ...

  One of the homebrew shops here in the TwinCities is really
good about helping you pick out specialty grains to go with
extracts, and most of their kits come with specialty grains.

  Hopefully, you live in an area similarly blessed.  The "Joy
of Homebrewing" book is a really great place to look for details.

  The resulting beer is, IMHO, about as close to whole-grain
brew as you can get without learning what a "worting vessel" is.

  Very full body (compared to straight-extract), and a noticibly
higher alcohol content (not that good beer has to have a high
alcohol content ... OK, SURE -- THAT'S THE TRUE MEASURE, ISN'T
IT !!! pant, pant, pant ... But all seriousness aside, folks,
it does seem to raise the initial potential alcohol about 1%).

  On a side note ...

  I would say that learning how to brew beer from extract is
almost a requirement of being able to brew good rootbeer from
extract as well.  It's not beer, but it's pretty satisfying
to see how quickly and easily you can whip together 5 gallons
of homebrew rootbeer, and how much character you can put into
it once you get an idea of what yeast and sugar are doing for
you (with you?)

  And, however "sophisticatede" I get with homebrew (which
obviously is going to take awhile), I'll probably always 
brew up a quicky batch of the Cambell's soup variety of
homebrew for cowans or when we're all too blitzed to tell
the difference (why waste the good stuff on relatives?)

  Must be time for some more coffee by now ... Ciaran.
From: houck@scivax.stsci.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Abita! Abita!
Date: 19 Aug 92 21:08:01 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Space Telescope Science Institute




I was recently in New Orleans and I had a beer there called ABITA. It is
not made in New Orleans but just across Lake Ponchatrain at a local spring.
Abita makes 3 or 4 types of beer (amber, gold, turbo dog etc).

I brought back a six pack on the plane thinking I could get it here (Balto/
Wash D.C. area), but alas, apparently I can't. No one I asked (stores) have
ever heard of it.

Does anyone out there know if it can be purchased outside of Louisiana?

I called Abita and they will not ship direct saying that is the law.

Thanks
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: v045100@otis1.stortek.com (Jennifer Farnham)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Cherry Beer Recipe Wanted
Date: 14 Aug 92 15:36:19 GMT
Reply-To: v045100@otis1.UUCP (Jennifer Farnham)
Organization: Storage Technology Corp.


Have a freezer full of fresh pitted cherries. I
need a recipe for Cherry Beer. Anyone have one?
Made a raspberry beer a couple of weeks ago and
it turned out pretty good.

Thanks,

Jennifer Farnham
"v045100@otis1.stortek.com
Boulder, Colorado
Organization: Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 09:59:13 -0400 
From: Dino_P._Chiesa@transarc.com
Subject: Full-Moon Porter (13 August)


Last night was the full moon (or maybe it was Wed Night/Thursday
morning, but let's assume it was last night).  So, in honor of this
special event, I brewed up a batch of Full-Moon Porter.

This was an extract brew, but contained about 1.5 lb of specialty
malts, as well as some coffee.  It looks very dark, and smells great.

This is for a 5-gallon batch.
  6 lbs Dark Malt Extract Syrup
  1 lb English Dark Dry Malt Extract
  1/4 lb black patent malt
  1/4 lb chocolate malt
  1/2 lb roasted barley
  5 Tbs ground Vienna Roast coffee
  1 oz Bullion hops pellets
  1 oz Northern Brewer hops pellets
  2 oz Cascade hops pellets
  1 "porter yeast" starter.

I ordered the Porter Kit from "The Homebrewer's Store" which is in the
Northwest US (Seattle?).  The kit includes the extracts, the yeast,
and the hops.  It was pretty cheap, maybe $17 + shipping.  I augmented
their basic kit with a bit o' coffee, just for fun.  I think I would
have liked to add more chocolate malt, but I didn't have any on hand.

I used Charlie's "step infusion" for the specialty grains, 125 deg. F
(20 mins), 135 (15 mins), 155 (20 mins), and 170 (15 mins).  I did a
mini-sparged with 170 degree water and a strainer.

To the resulting wort, I added the extract (syrup and dry). The full
boil was about 50 minutes total.  15 mins, then add 1 oz bullion and 1
N.B., and boil 20 mins, then add 1.25 oz Cascade and boil 15 more
mins.  Then, I added remaining cascade, steeped 3 mins, and added
coffee, and steeped 1 minute.  Cooled the wort in the sink ice-bath.

The yeast capsule sat in my fridge for at least a month, but I started
it about 40 hours ahead of time, and it was bubbling along nicely by
the time I pitched. 

Initial Gravity was 1.060.


-dpc

disclaimer: I am not affiliated with "The Homebrewer's Store"
Xref: sparky rec.crafts.brewing:4553 alt.beer:4791
From: mece1xg@Rosie.UH.EDU (purna)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing,alt.beer
Subject: Re: New BrewPub list
Date: 13 Aug 92 18:48:25 GMT
Reply-To: mece1xg@Rosie.UH.EDU
Organization: University of Houston

In article <14973@umd5.umd.edu>, brew@monster.umd.edu writes:
>
>Fellow Microbrew fans:
>
>As there is and continues to be tremendous interest and requests for 
>information about micro breweries across the US and abroad, fellow brewer 
>Dale Cooper (cooper@seismo.css.gov) and your's truly, Garry Knox,
>(knox@monster.umd.edu) are planning to compile a master list of micro 
>breweries to be made accessible to all.  Exact details are to be determined 
>such as how the data is to be housed (database, flat file, postscript file 
>ala CMII) and how it is to be made accessible to all (anonymous FTP).  We
>will entertain reasonable suggestions so here's your chance to be part of
>something entirely cool and useful to brewers and beer afficionados from
>Dead Horse, Alaska to Sydney, Australia.
>
> [...rest deleted...]

howdy!

i think this is a GREAT idea!  my suggestion is to put the info into
a TeX (or a variant, like LaTeX, etc.) format.  that way, it can be
distributed (via ftp, for example) and be used on pretty much any
machine.  it would also take up less space than, say, a postscript
file.  also, using TeX alleviates the problem of postscript, d-base,
prodigy, microsoft word, etc. formats.

>Dale Cooper & Garry Knox    8/13/92
>brew@monster.umd.edu
>cooper@seismo.css.gov
>knox@monster.umd.edu

just my ramblings....

-purna
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: fbruno@shrimp (F. Bruno)
Subject: SURVEY: homebrew helper
Organization: Sanders Associates
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 92 13:43:58 GMT

Hello,
	I am planning on writing a homebrewers helper program, and I
was wondering what kind of demand there would be if I were to go
share ware with it... It will be a windows program (true windows, not a
toolbook application). It will track recipes, print labels (hopefully),
calculate %alcohol, calories(hopefully), and what else should I program
into it. I was thinking of putting the program as shareware for $20. all
procedes to go towards my openning a brewpub someday (my goal), but first
I must get into all grain brewing and start formulating recipes. I know
there are some other programs out there, but I was disappointed by one that
I spent about $40. on. This one will be detailed, and good, I promise.
So, please email me if you think that I may have a product. I am not trying
to announce vaporware, because it will be a month or two to get a beta
release, but it is something that I want to try.
	Second, I want to try to build an automashing machine. I am a 
double-E, and I have a lot of PC experience, so I was hoping to use a PC
to control a hot plate(capable of heating the wort enough) with a digital
thermometer to tell me when to cut the heat or turn it on. Any suggestions?
	Lastly, I just brewed an OAKEN-WEISS, sounds cool, but I shoulod get
the real german word for oak. Basically s high SG wort 3.3kg wheat malt and
1 lb. light dried malt. and an ounce of oak chips. I can't believe the
fermentation. not fast, but furious! The foam filled a 3" headspace in my
plastic primary, sppouting foam out my airlock! Smells great, just like a 
wheat beer should! Its only been three days, but I am counting down to keg
it!
			-Frank BRuno
			fbruno@ncavax.decnet.lockheed.com
From: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us (Joseph Nathan Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: labels...
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 92 12:16:39 EDT
Organization: 5 Sigma Software
Reply-To: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us
X-Mailer: uAccess - Macintosh Release: 1.5v5


In article <1992Aug12.154540.28480@athena.mit.edu> (rec.crafts.brewing), bfbrown@athena.mit.edu (Brian F. Brown) writes:
) I was just wondering how difficult it is to make and apply your own
) labels to bottles...  I'm not really fond of writing codes on caps
) to remember which bottle is which brew, and I think having a label
) adds a certain sophistication to your homebrew...  any thoughts???

Rubber cement works well.  Labels are easy to put on once you get
the hang of it, and they come off easily.  Remaining cement can be
quickly rolled off.

uunet!joebloe!joseph   (609) 273-8200 day   joseph%joebloe@uunet.uu.net
v   v  sssss | Certified Guru: all-grain brewing,| 2102 Ryan's Run East
 v v  s   s  | C, synthesizer comp & arranging,  | Rt 38 & 41
  v    sss   | photography. Also not a bad cook. | Maple Shade NJ 08052
-----My employer isn't paying for this, and my opinions are my own-----
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: pyle@intellistor.com (Norm Pyle)
Subject: Re: Awful beer, bottles (Salvator?  Say it ain't so...)
Organization: Intellistor, Longmont, CO
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 92 21:12:35 GMT

In article <1992Aug14.161705.17199@noose.ecn.purdue.edu> redfreak@softcopy.ecn.purdue.edu (Thomas Lobonc) writes:
>Last night I opened a bottle of Paulner Salvator. This is the first beer
>(aside from cheapo domestics) that I have had to toss before I finished
>in several years. (I tossed Guiness and Sam Smith's Oatmeal Stout a few
>years ago, before I started brewing). What kind of beer is this?
>It had little carbonation, a nice deep red color, and seemed to be very
>sweet. Hops? It just had this terrible flavor, and I don't think that
>was any kind of spoilage.  Kind of reminded me of a Scotch Ale, but I
>can enjoy one of those.

Wow!  I've never heard Salvator ripped so soundly.  It is a Dopplebock, high
in alcohol and unfermentables as well.  Beer names which end in -ator are
often Dopplebocks (although not all, such as Terminator Stout) so if you see
another unrecognized -ator name you might not want to try it.  Some people
think Salvator is the beer to end all beers  (I have a friend who drinks it
like water).

I would describe it thus:  Dark red heavy lager.  Very sweet with very little
hops for balance.  Strong (I think) roasted barley flavor.  High alcohol.
Smooth.  Not a beer for thirst quenching - much better to sip by a fire in
January  (unfortunately they are traditionally brewed in the Spring).

To each his own (that's why we brew!),
Norm
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing,alt.beer
From: wood@rtsg.mot.com (Dan Wood)
Subject: Re: Beer dispute?
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 17:29:41 GMT

   Glad to hear you're brewing Murph, but now you've gone too far.
When you started answering your own posts I thought that you may have 
gotten into the wrong kind of alcohol, but now you're accusing us
netters of masturbating and drinking Pabst!  I thought you liked us:
I'd *never* think of drinking a Pabst!

   As for collecting bottles, the Samuel Smith's bottles are real
classy, although a b*tch to get the foil off of.  Being able to
enjoy the contents makes up for the aggravation, though.  It also
serves as an extremely high standard to judge your own brews against.
Anyone out there claim they can out-do the SS Taddy Porter?

   My favorite mass bottle collection method is buying the cardboard
returnable cases of Miller Genuine draft.  The boxes stack real
nice and are all fairly new, and the labels come off easily.
Now, before anyone insults my taste, re-read the paragraph above:
my wife drinks the MGD, I wouldn't drink one for a free JS malt-o-
mill.  She doesn't like homebrew, the only flaw I've seen in her
judgement.  ;)  

   Oh, and about that dog.  You think she's stupid?  What does the
dog do while you are working all day?  Think about it.  And by all
means, keep her around: you know what they say about drinking
alone.  :)

   Keep on brewing, just please don't keep mentioning America's
poor excuses for commercial beer.  It makes me want to run home 
and cleanse my palette with my latest Nut Brown Ale, which I'd never
get away with: my boss doesn't brew.  :(

PS: You may want to look into a rig called a "brewball".  I have one
and think it's great.  I'm sure it's inferior to kegging, but a
cheap and easy alternative/supplement to bottling for beginners.  It's 
like a "Bud ball" that you can fill with homebrew.  It comes in 2.5
and 5 g sizes.  They were reviewed in Zymurgy a few issues back.
A starter kit is under $40.  I don't sell 'em, I'm just "sold" on
mine.  Great for parties, but they don't keep more than a couple of
days once tapped. I bought the pump style: anyone have the CO2 version?
Their number is 800-762-2560, I think the starter kit is called
"the party system".  They send free catalogs with other stuff
for sale.

   Happy quaffing!

-- 
*********************************************************************************
*	Dan Wood   Motorola Inc.	*	 I said it, not Moto:      	*
*	wood@rtsg.mot.com 		*	 They think I'm working!	*
*********************************************************************************
From: halpin@vax.oxford.ac.uk
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: yeast culturing
Date: 14 Aug 92 16:36:20 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: Oxford University VAX 6620

In article <1992Aug14.141320.27232@uc.msc.edu>, cush@uh.msc.edu (R. Cushing
Hamlen) writes:

> Myself, I figure I can streak Wyeast (which I did last night) and get
> perhaps four to six batches from the streak.  This reduces the cost of
> the yeast to perhaps a dollar a brew,  and I do not have to worry
> about mutations, contamination, etc. remember: we NEED places like
> Wyeast to maintain strains...if we do not keep them in business, we
> loose in the end.

Unless you already know the techniques and have easy access to the
equipment, preserving yeast like this seems a lot of extra trouble. I
wonder if it really has any advantages over, say, harvesting yeast
slurry from the secondary (many people seem to do this successfully
over a chain of four or five brews). And for long-term retention of a
strain, wouldn't keeping a few bottles to culture from work equally
well? Surely the effort and lag-time involved in making a starter from
a slant cannot be less than that in making one from a bottle or two.

Wheeler suggests doing a special medium-to-high gravity brew and
bottling it with a little sulphite as a convenient means of long-term
storage of a special yeast. It strikes me as a little more intuitive
for brewers to use brewers' techniques, rather than try to become
amateur micro-biologists as well!


Brendan

(But if it feels good, do it :-)


Brendan Halpin                    Email: HALPIN@VAX.OXFORD.AC.UK
Nuffield College                  Phone: +44 865 278642
Oxford OX1 1NF
United Kingdom
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Subject: Re: esters, banana
Organization: ddsw1.MCS.COM Contributor, Chicago, IL
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL3
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 06:11:58 GMT
X-Disclaimer:  Material posted in this article is the sole responsibility of
                the poster and does not represent MCSNet or the system owners.

tinsethg@ucs.orst.edu (Glenn Tinseth) writes:
: >HOW MANY PEOPLE OUT THERE HAVE HAD EXPERIENCED THAT TURNED OUT TO BE
: >CONTAMINATED WYEAST?
: 
: Er, Jack, how do you suppose the unwashed masses of homebrewing, myself
: included, are going to pin down the source of a brewing infection. I can just
: hear it: "Yeah I used that stuff once, and that beer was *really* bad." Is
: this the yeast's fault? Just how do you collect data, Jack? By consensus? A
: vote in committee? Stay out of my lab, thank you. Also this study, as Jeff
: said, has already been done in the _zymurgy_ special yeast issue. If you
: haven't already done so please read this study.
 
I believe I was responding to the contention that Wyeast has never had a
contaminated batch so the one brought up by the original author could not
have been the cause of his problem.

Neither the study by Zymurgy nor your not being able to nail down the cause
eliminates the yeast as a possibility.

If one can be so sure the cause was not the yeast, I presume he could also
know that it was, if indeed it was.

js
From: slk6p@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: aeration - when?
Date: 18 Aug 92 09:20:57 MDT
Organization: Utah State University

In article <18AUG199208584594@watson.bms.com>, kaz@watson.bms.com (Joe Kazimierczyk) writes:
> Here's a question from another newbie (first batch in progress, but not doing
> too well:(
> 
> From what I've read, it seems that aeration of the wort is important for
> proper fermentation to take place.  I recall reading somewhere (can't
> remember where) that one should avoid aeration when pouring the
> hot wort into a fermentation bucket.   Is this correct?  If so, why?
> Is violently stirring the wort after it's cooled, but just before pitching,
> the generally accepted method?  Should I relax or should I worry?
> 
> Thanks in advance...
> 
> Joe Kazimierczyk
> kaz@bms.com

you want to aerate the wort before pitching the yeast.  So after the boil,
and cooling (if you are cooling) you should transfer the boiled wort vigorously
to the primary mixing in lots of air.  
	After this point, whenever transferring your ferment- avoid mixing in
any air. (While quaffing a brau, and not worrying)  So from the primary to the
2ndary- and any transfer/mixing in of sugar -prior to bottling, you should
avoid mixing in air.  Just send the siphon tube to the bottome of the recieving
vessel- and RELAX.		J.Wyllie
From: bliss@sp64.csrd.uiuc.edu (Brian Bliss)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: labels...
Date: 12 Aug 92 21:43:01 GMT
Article-I.D.: csrd.1992Aug12.214301.25339
Organization: UIUC Center for Supercomputing Research and Development

In article <1992Aug12.193001.20630@porthos.cc.bellcore.com>, afd@bellcore.com (Alex F. Dietz) writes:
|> 
|> This was a trick I picked up from the HBD a looong time ago.
|> 
|> Use milk for sticking homebrew labels to bottles.  Soak your
|> home-designer label (no stickum on the back, please.  Then
|> you'll have problems) in some milk, then slap it on the bottle.
|> Pat it dry with a towl or sponge.
|> I seem to remember that the milk proteins act as water-soluble
|> glue.  
|> 
|> Taking them off is easier.  Soak the bottle for about 30 secs.
|> The labels float right off.  Oh yeah, and it's environmentally
|> friendly too......
|>

except that it creates a breeding ground for lactic-acid producing
bacteria, at least until it dries...

bb
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Subject: Re: Head Space, etc . . .
Organization: ddsw1.MCS.COM Contributor, Chicago, IL
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 16:20:53 GMT
X-Disclaimer:  Material posted in this article is the sole responsibility of
                the poster and does not represent MCSNet or the system owners.

In article <1992Aug17.184426.23247@bwdls61.bnr.ca> osicoop@bwdls138 (Doug Gould) writes:
>arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) writes:
>: 
>:I  doubt that carbonation has anything to do with it.  As I pointed out in
>:HBD and answered my own question, I suspect the reason is to guard agains
>:accedential freezing.  The head space allows a reasonable amout of
>:expansion before bursting the bottles.
>:
>:js
>
>I'd think a well carbonated beer filled within a fraction of a inch of the top
>would be much more prone to foaming over, especially if it's not chilled
>to near-freezing temperatures.  I find that my homebrews are a tad foamier
>than commercial products ( I like 'em that way ) - even so I've had 
>brewery made beer foam over upon opening in the past...  I think it would
>be a little messier for me if I filled them up that much.  As it is, I don't 
>think an inch of head space contributes all that much oxygen to beer in the 
>bottle.  I'll just have to live with it...

Let's not lose sight of the fact that what started this discussion was the
wondrus new caps that deplete the oxygen through some chemicals in them.

The bottom line seems to be... who need them?

js
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing