HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: audi@tellabs.com (Audi McGee)
Subject: Thanks kim
Followup-To: sender
Originator: audi@nu1
Keywords: e-mail bounced
Organization: Tellabs, Inc., Lisle, IL
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 12:17:36 GMT

hi kim,

first let me apologize for posting this but my e-mail
bounced to you kim. just wanted to say thanks for
the liver recipe. i'm going to try it out.

thanks again.

audi
From: prange@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Henry Prange)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Floppy-eared G. Shep Puppy
Date: 20 Aug 92 13:21:13 GMT
Organization: Indiana University

I have a four-month old puppy with one ear up and the other decidedly not.
I would appreciate advice on the liklihood it will stand on its own, 
whether it should be taped, if so can I do it myself, etc.?

Thanks.
From: bruno@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Bruno Melli)
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 23:21:36 GMT
Subject: Re: MALAMUTE PUPPY WANTED
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs

> Does anyone know where I could get a Malumute puppy w/o papers 
> for a similar price?
> Or are Mals rare enough that this is not feasible?

I really doubt that you will find a reputable breeder willing
to sell you a Malamute puppy for $50. Like all large breeds malamutes
are subject to hip problems. Reputable breeders work to get rid of it in
their line. Backyard breeders don't. If you get a puppy with hip problems
you will end up with more than $250 in vet bills alone.

Reputable breeders work on their line disposition making sure not
to breed aggressive dogs. Are you ready to deal with a 120+ lb dog who
will turn aggressive toward you, wour wife, or your future baby. 
Especially if you get him now he might not want to share you with the 
baby in 7 months...

Reputable breeders don't sell dogs at $250 and more to make money.
They probably loose money or break even on every puppy they sell.
They ask a for that kind of money to make sure that the potential buyer
cares enough for the dog that money is not a problem... They don't want
the dog put to sleep the first time the vet bill gets too steep.

bruno.
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: X005CB@tamvm1.tamu.edu (Chris Barnes)
Subject: Re: looking for new dog suggestions
Organization: Texas A&M University
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 15:33:19 GMT

In article <winders-140892150619@macwinders.support.apple.com>
    winders@aux.support.apple.com (Scott Winders) writes:
 
>If someone wants to take a hunting dog and make it a perfect companion,
>let them.
 
 
No.  Not without a fight.  Not with MY breed.
 
      ----------------------------------------------
Chris Barnes            |
x005cb@tamvm1.tamu.edu  |  Only 15 more days until the start of
(409) 846-3273 (home)   |           hunting season (in Texas)
(409) 845-8454 (work)   |
From: garrison@kodak.com (Laurie Garrison)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: thanks! was Re: help with retriever problem
Date: 20 Aug 92 17:06:01 GMT
Reply-To: garrison@kodak.com (Laurie Garrison)
Organization: Image Processing Algorithms Laboratory, Eastman Kodak Co.


hello everyone,

i'm the one with the retriever problem!  i wanted to thank
everyone for a bunch of very good suggestions.  however, since
i posted my question, Indy hasn't grabbed anything illegal so
i haven't had a chance to try any of them!  the problems *do*
occur only when i am home, so luckily i won't have to do anything
as elaborate as setting up the shock collar scenario...i would
not do that anyways.  i have never had to punish Indy so far,
i have always used positive reinforcement and it has always worked 
great! (whoops- except for the choke collar for walks and obedience 
school, but she learned so quick i rarely have to use it)

here are the things i am going to try:
1. whenever i take away the offending object, i will immediatly
	provide a 'legal' replacement, so she can learn what is 'hers'
2. try a better technique for prying her mouth open, i was
	doing it the wrong way i think...
3. provide more 'legal' toys for her.
4. read up on the 'alpha roll'.  i have tried this, but not very
	successfully.  how do yo flip over a 70 lb golden retriever
	without hurting yourself? :)

there are a bunch of other things that i will try if
the above don't work.  no more treats for Indy when she has something
illegal in her mouth though!

thanks everyone again, hopefully my stuff will be free of
doggie-slime soon... :)

laurie

ps. Chris, Indy is spayed.  no breeding here!

 
------
The more I know, the less I understand
All the things I thought I'd figured out, 	
I have to learn again...
				- Don Henley
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: srlee@beta.lanl.gov (Stephen R Lee)
Subject: Re: Walking multiple dogs
Organization: Los Alamos National Laboratory
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 22:21:42 GMT

In article <172vi2INNrri@moe.ksu.ksu.edu> terry@eece.ksu.edu (Terry Hull) writes:
>I have considered getting Halti collars for all of them so that I can
>put them all on leads and let them get out in front of me, but I have
>not done that yet.  How do the rest of you walk 3 or more dogs at the
>same time?  

I made a belt for use in skijoring (before I started using a sled), and
I now use it to walk my three dogs at once.  It is simple, a padded belt
that I modified bu adding a rope with a ring on it.  To this, is attached
a 2.5 ft section of bungee cord.  To that, I have three seperate ropes
for each dog, with carabeners (sp?) at the bungee end and standard thumb
type "leash" latches at the dog end.  I just attach these to the dogs collars
and we are off (literally :-) ).  My dogs _are_ trained to pull, but I have
also trained them (with much pain and effort) the difference between pulling
with their harnesses and pulling from their collars.  They therefore do not
drag me along anymore (they sure used to though -- lots of skinned knees).  
They are very good about walking together, the don't get tangled much or 
anything.  Anymore, the can tell what they will be doing by the equipment I
get out.  If it is the belt and ropes, they get excited and wait by the door.
If it is the harnesses, they go balistic and bounce off of the walls.

-- 
============================================================
Stephen R. Lee                 | 
OooWoo Racing Kennel           | I'd rather be driving sled
E-Mail: srlee@beta.lanl.gov    | dogs.
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: jkjncs@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Subject: Re: help with retriever problem
Reply-To: jkjncs@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 18:14:56 GMT

YIKES - sorry about the mupliple posts (it said it wasn't posting them,
I swear!!!)

********************************************************
* jane jackson and murphy b. lab, Am/Can CD, CGC, TDI  *
* jkjncs@ritvax.isc.rit.edu                            *
*                                                      *
* standard disclaimer applies...                       *
********************************************************
From: kathy_buetow@QMS1.life.uiuc.edu (Kathy Buetow)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: Need help writing Nasty Letter
Date: 14 Aug 92 18:15:02 GMT
Article-I.D.: physio10.kathy_buetow-140892130325
Followup-To: rec.pets.dogs
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana

In article <1992Aug12.232139.18357@speedy.aero.org>,
amiranda@ariel.aero.org (Ann Miranda) wrote:
> 
>     Hi all,
>   
>   	Well, the subject sort of says it.  Let me explain:
>   
>   	Recently my husband & I bought a female mini dachshund from 
>  a local breeder.  (not an official breeder, just someone from the 
>  newspaper who breeds dogs -- ie. part-time job, or hobby or whatever 
>  you call them).

I call them "backyard breeders"...they have no busines or right 
to breed animals.  They often have *NO* knowledge whatsoever
of the breed, often breed "just to recoup what they spent on the
bitch" (I have news for you, a litter bred and raised properly is
*not* a money-making venture !!), have no idea what possible
genetic faults lie in their breed, or have some other weak reason
for breeding ("heard the bitch would calm down if she had just one 
litter before she was spayed", "wanted my kids to see the miracle
of birth".....)

>   	"Shelby", our baby, is AKC registered, and one of the many 
>  reasons we got her was to provide an "outlet" for our overly studly, 
>  horney male, AKC registered, beautiful, mini doxie. 

How about having your "overly studly" dog neutered ?  I'm not quite
sure what you mean by using a bitch to "provide an outlet" for your
dog.......but I sure hope you yourself were not implying that you bought
a bitch just so that your dog could take care of his "horniness" problem.
(If so, add this to the list above of weak reasons for breeding !!)
Have your dog neutered and your bitch spayed and avoid the pitfalls
of becoming a backyard breeder yourself !!

If you got the bitch merely as a companion for your male, once again....
have them spayed and neutered and you will find as I have that two
dogs (or a dog and a cat.....) are great company for one another !!

--------------------------------
Katwala Australian Cattle Dogs
Kathy_Buetow@QMS1.life.uiuc.edu
"Australian Cattle Dogs are not just a breed....they're a way of life !!!"
From: nrboard@amherst.edu
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: More flea info, please
Date: 19 Aug 92 12:51:54 GMT
Article-I.D.: amherst.1992Aug19.085154.1
Organization: Amherst College, Amherst Mass.

Hi.  I've read the FAQ file on fleas and ticks but cannot find any mention of
how much brewer's yeast and garlic to give a dog.  I'm assuming it would be by
weight and sort of remember seeing a posting earlier this summer.  If someone
could re-post or e-mail the info to me, I'd greatly appreciate it.  Also, has
anyone heard of rubbing lemon peel on the dog's coat?  In terms of
over-the-counter products to use, we've found that Zodiac products work well. 
They have a shampoo to combat fleas, a spray that can be used directly on the
dog (although my male Scottie's skin dries out badly from it--the female's
doesn't), and a spray to use on the floors, bedding, carpets, etc.  Thanks for
any and all feedback.
Nancy Board
Amherst College
"Lonesome coyote survives. . . ."
From: williamsk@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com (Desperately seeking a major)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Meeting people from Netland
Date: 21 Aug 92 06:52:48 EST

In article <1992Aug20.201057.4151@ctr.columbia.edu>, mcfadden@bellman.lanl.gov (Russell McFadden) writes:
> BTW, I'll be in Cleveland, Ohio at the Western Reserve Kennel Club on Sunday, Aug. 23, 1992.
> Judging this time instead of showing, but if anybody who reads this is at that show and
> gets a chance, please stop by my ring and say hi.
> 
> Russell L. McFadden
> mcfadden@nimue.lanl.gov
> 
Darn!  Spencer will be there (unless he finishes this week-end), but not
me!  I told my husband we would be able to go away!  Oh well, maybe some other
time I will get to meet another netter!  I've met one so far, and have plans
to meet another soon, and I'd love to meet the third one, but she's in
Colorado and I'm in Ohio - well, maybe someday!  (Good morning Bobbi, Marget
 and Sandra!)  


Kim
From: ellie@slumber.sybase.com (Ellen Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: dog digs holes
Date: 20 Aug 92 00:20:10 GMT

I have a plan to discourage my dog from misbehaving while she's in the
backyard and I'm stuck at work, but I just thought of it yesterday and 
won't get to try it till this weekend. In any case, I'll tell you now
in case it's a good idea: 

Confine her to an area in which she can do what she wants. 
Keep her in there whenever I'm not around to watch her. (In my yard, 
there's a handy little walkway I can block off to keep her in. 
If that doesn't work for you, I've seen portable fence-a-ma-jigs 
at Pet Express that might serve the same purpose.) 
Then, and here's the tricky part, when I am around to watch her, 
let her into the backyard while I hide somewhere nearby. 
As soon as she begins misbehaving, zing her with a water balloon! 
Or something startling and unpleasant.

The objective is that she should learn not just that when you see this
act (getting in the garbage, eating poop, digging holes) you'll
be mad, she should also learn that doing the bad act at all has immediate
unpleasant consequences. Soon it just won't seem as fun anymore. At least
that's my plan.

Incidentally, what my dog is doing that I want to discourage is eating
cat poop. My neighbors feed (and don't care for) all the stray cats in the
neighborhood and they (the cats, not my neighbors, yet, anyway) use my
yard as their litter-box. Lucy, my 15-week-old Australian Shepherd, thinks
this is the yummiest thing ever. Even after it's made her too sick to eat
her puppy-chow, she doesn't lose her taste for it. Granted the ideal 
solution would be to train my neighbors to be responsible pet owners,
but I think Lucy is considerably brighter and catches on to new ideas
quicker.

It's worth a try...

-ellie
From: tbears@carousel.EBay.Sun.COM (Pamela Woods)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: What should I get?
Date: 19 Aug 92 21:41:53 GMT
Reply-To: tbears@carousel.EBay.Sun.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
NNTP-Posting-Host: carousel.ebay.sun.com

In article 205430WEAHC@CUNYVM.BITNET, WEAHC@CUNYVM.BITNET (Wendy Allison) writes:
>Please do everyone a favor (you, your children, and the dogs of the world)
>and ADOPT a dog from a shelter!  First of all, it's cheap, so that fulfills
>one of your requirements.  Consider an adult, young but still fully grown.
>Then you'll know exactly what you're getting.  I have absolutely nothing
>against pure breeds, but for a family pet a "pound puppy" can't be beat!
>And best of all, they KNOW that you've rescued them and love you all the
>more for it.  Good luck!



I'm afraid I'm going to have to disagree...And believe me I'm speaking from
experience.  The first two dogs I owned as an adult I rescued from a shelter.
Both dogs ended up being very sick (one had worms so large they looked like piles of 
spaghetti and second had kennel cough and several other diseases).  Both didn't 
show any signs of sickness until after we had them for a week.  Both times they said 
that we could bring them back and choose another one, but how do you tell your kids
that the puppy they love will be going back just because they are sick.
Not to mention how attached I was to the dog.  The money I spent in vet bills 
made up for the money I would have paid a reputable breeder.

Now I have a Doberman Pinscher.  I bought him from a breeder as a pet and he has
grown into a beautiful show dog.  With him came the following:

	1)  Gaurantee that he would be free from genetic disorders or I would be 
	given a new puppy or if I chose to keep him I would be given back the money
	I paid for him and extra money to help with vet bills.
	
	2)  His pedigree, and any information on his parents that I wanted.

	3)  His AKC papers.

	4)  All shots and wormings.

	5)  Tail docked, ears cropped and free ear care.

	6)  A well behaved and healthy companion with perfect tempermen.

	7)  No worries whatsoever.

To me, all that was worth spending the extra money to go to a breeder.


***************************************************************************
Pamela C. Woods				Sun Microsystems Computer Corp.
Manufacturing Engineer			1210 California Circle MIL05-111
Remanufactured Products Group 		Milpitas, CA  95035
Phone:  (408) 276-5793			E-mail:  tbears@carousel or
Pager:  (408) 989-0270				 Pamela.Woods@EBay.Sun.COM
From: williamsk@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com (Desperately seeking a major)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: Another breeding question
Date: 19 Aug 92 08:56:21 EST

In article <l92gteINNegv@exodus.Eng.Sun.COM>, mooring@ (Linda Mooring) writes:
> I know the debate on proper breeding has probably been exhausted,
> but before you all lose too much steam I'd like to get your
> opinions on the following.  (If you have to flame, please be
> constructive.  Remember, this is not *my* dog, my mutt is altered.)
First of all, flames are not constructive :-)

It sounds as if your brother is being very responsible about his decision
to breed.  I wouldn't necessarily make opposition to him brreding her, but
it would probably be good for him to go to a couple of dog shows and
talk to some of the Rottie breeders there. (Or maybe there is one on the net
who could offer the info?)  Ask them if there are any other hereditary problems
that should be checked besides hips.  For goldens we get there eyes and heart
checked also. If your brother is willing to do this and then not breed her if
she has these problems, I wouldn't discourage him from breeding.  (Also, it
would be good if the potential sires were also tested.)

Kim
From: cabarto@gallua.gallaudet.edu
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Wheezing Dog
Date: 12 Aug 92 21:56:26 GMT
Organization: Gallaudet University

Every once in awhile (I'd say at least a couple of times a week),
our one-year-old Bichon Frise starts wheezing.  She can't catch
her breath -- these episodes last for 15-30 seconds.  After the
episode is over, she is perfectly fine.

We've been able to determine that it happens most often when she
gets excited, but it also happens just out of the blue.  I've 
scheduled an appointment with the Vet, but I'm curious if
anyone else has experienced this problem and if it may be
unique to Bichon's.

Thanks for your help!

cabarto@gallua
From: AS.RAF@forsythe.stanford.edu (Rebecca Fenton)
Subject: Re: looking for new dog suggestions
Organization: Stanford University, California, USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 19:55:48 GMT

I agree with Roberta concerning natural ears on dogs.  They DO look
softer.  (But then I think I'd be rather temperamental of someone
had cut my ears off too!).


     Becky - Mom of Harley & his dog Bob
From: X005CB@tamvm1.tamu.edu (Chris Barnes)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: help with retriever problem
Date: 19 Aug 1992 19:18:52 GMT
Organization: Texas A&M University

In article <1992Aug19.164129.8388@newshost.lanl.gov>
    srlee@beta.lanl.gov (Stephen R Lee) writes:
 
>>>I think all she has to do
>>>is (1) keep illegal items out of reach;
>>
>>Possibly, but then again, the dog may just switch to chewing on
>>the sofa cushions.
>
>Then don't allow the dog access to the cushions when you are not there
>to watch it.
 
Maybe she could put the entire couch up in the attic while she is
gone.....   ;-)
 
 
>>Recall that the problem pooch didn't chew on things when she was
>>home.  Kinda hard to give a command when you're not there.  For those
>>times where she was home to catch the dog, this would definately be
>>the preferred method.  Of course, she may not need to use a video
>>camera and rearrange her living room, borrowing a pair of binoculars
>>to look through the window *could* be just as effective.....
>
>Are we talking about the same poster?  The person I was referring to
>*did* have the problem when she was at home.  Therefore, my comments
>stand.  I have conversed with this person off of the net, but I
>thought your idea, again, while it might work, seemed a little
>elaborate to me, and un-necessary in this case.
 
Actually she had 2 seperate problems (I'm going from memory, so
I may be wrong here...)
 
1)  The dog would chew all manner of things while she was away.
    This seemed to be the major problem.
 
2)  If the dog picked up something while she was home, she had a
    very difficult time getting it away from her.  She resorted to
    enticing the dog to open it's mouth by offering treats, where-
    upon the dog began swallowing the "illegal" item.
 
 
My comments in using the video camera / shock collar were to help
solve #1 only.  I made other suggestions for #2.  Also, I make no
claims that this was the ONLY way to deal with the problem.  It
was just a method that I saw work...once.
 
      ----------------------------------------------
Chris Barnes            |
x005cb@tamvm1.tamu.edu  |  Only 13 more days until the start of
(409) 846-3273 (home)   |           hunting season (in Texas)
(409) 845-8454 (work)   |
From: nbr@ac.dal.ca
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: Wheezing Dog
Date: 17 Aug 92 21:10:32 GMT
Organization: Dalhousie University, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

In article <1992Aug12.165626.1@gallua.gallaudet.edu>, cabarto@gallua.gallaudet.edu writes:
> Every once in awhile (I'd say at least a couple of times a week),
> our one-year-old Bichon Frise starts wheezing.  She can't catch
> her breath -- these episodes last for 15-30 seconds.  After the
> episode is over, she is perfectly fine.
> 
> We've been able to determine that it happens most often when she
> gets excited, but it also happens just out of the blue.  I've 
> scheduled an appointment with the Vet, but I'm curious if
> anyone else has experienced this problem and if it may be
> unique to Bichon's.
> 
> Thanks for your help!
> 
> cabarto@gallua
>  
My wife and I have seen this in our 4 year-old shepherd/collie mix,
and queried two different vets... they couldn't really say without
seeing it happen. But like the poster above, our dog is fine the
rest of the time. It sure is disconcerting, though, and maybe it
would behoove us to find another vet (?).

Bruce Ramsey
Marine Gene Probe Lab
Dalhousie University
Halifax, Nova Scotia
CANADA
From: kathleen.brewer@cutting.hou.tx.us (Kathleen Brewer)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: What should I get?
Date: 15 Aug 92 04:20:00 GMT
Reply-To: kathleen.brewer@cutting.hou.tx.us (Kathleen Brewer)
Organization: The Cutting Edge - Houston, TX - 713-466-1525

TO: scm@harvee.billerica.ma.us

SMALG>i got sara's ilp recently, and the certifications you mentioned were neve
SMALG>for, nor given.  *all* i needed to send was:

SMALG>the filled-out form
SMALG>a vet's certificate saying she was spayed
SMALG>two photos
SMALG>the $25 fee

I am glad they have changed the requirements. When a lady in OB went to
get one a few years ago she had to find 2 breeders that would attest to
the fact that this was a dobe.

Kathleen.Brewer@cutting.hou.tx.us
---
 . OLX 2.1 . Backup not found: (A)bort (R)etry (P)anic
                                                                       
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: liza@pangea.Stanford.EDU (Liza Miller)
Subject: Re: Crate training question...
Organization: Stanford Univ. Earth Sciences
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 19:11:37 GMT

In article <1992Aug12.012109.22195@elroy.jpl.nasa.gov> srb@atmosmips.jpl.nasa.gov (Susan Beutelschies) writes:
>limd@teal.csn.org (Davin Lim) writes:
>
>>I know our dog actually often prefers the cool crate floor to
>>snooze on (or the ceramic tile by the front door)- even when we're home and 
>>she's able to sleep on the carpet.  Our crate is one of the plastic airline-
>>carrier types. 
>
>Our crate is a plastic airline-type too, but the bottom is LUMPY!  It came
>with a 1-inch or so thick foam pad covered with some sort of plastic or
>vinyl which laid on a piece of cardboard for support.  Well the pup chewed
>the cardboard to shreds and even took a chunk out of the vinyl.  So for now
>she has lumpy cushy vinyl to lie on.  But it seems like this was kind of a
>poor design to me.  Are the bottoms of anyone else's crates lumpy?  Do you
>have the dog sleep in these type crates without pads?

	Absolutely, I have my dogs sleep in their airline-type crates
with no pads.  Unless the weather is cold, they push the pads out of
the way anyway.  Don't put anything in your crate that you aren't willing
to have chewed up.


--
Liza Lee Miller         My dogs are labradorable!     liza@pangea.stanford.edu
Cibola Labradors            Field * Show * Fun                    415/326-5309
Cibola's Misty Mountain Hop--Hopper                   Mistypoint Kashmir--Kash
Talimar All-Pro At Delby--Niner          Campbellcroft Cibola Rosette -- Rosie
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs