HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: bjs@RUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Barry Sherman)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Hasselblad Film Flatness
Date: 14 Dec 92 20:49:22 GMT
Reply-To: bjs@RUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Barry Sherman)
Followup-To: rec.photo
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

In article <1992Dec13.201504.1@cc.curtin.edu.au> zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au writes:
>In article <334@metran.UUCP>, jay@metran.UUCP (Jay Ts) writes:
>...
>> BTW, I don't know if this matters, but I do not consider tacks to be
>> very sharp.  Needles, yes.  Scalpels, yes.  Razor blades, yes.  Tacks?
>> 
>> Where did this phrase "tack sharp" come from, anyway?
>> 

>Get a packet of cut tacks, put em in your pocket and tell us if you still don't
>know!!

Ah yes, yet another example of the relativity of experience.  I agree with 
Jay about needles and/or scalpels being sharper.  But when I find a tack which
had originally been on the floor embedded in the bottom of my bare foot its
Subjective Sharpness Factor  (SSF) goes right through the ceiling!  As do
I, myself.  :-)

Barry

--


|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Barry Sherman, Amdahl Corp. | "It's much easier to go to exotic places and | 
| bjs@uts.ccc.amdahl.com      |  capture spectacular scenes than to take a   |
|                             |  spectacular picture of a really boring      |
|                             |  green pepper". - Anthony Tse                |
|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Amdahl, being a corporation, is a legal fiction.  Therefore it is incapable|
| of holding, let alone expressing, opinions.  Unfortunately, this has been  |
| said of me as well. (I.e.  My statments are mine, not Amdahl's.)           |
|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: pd@sics.se (Per Danielsson)
Subject: Canon USM lenses (was Re: was going to get 8008s but EOS 10s recommended)
Organization: Swedish Institute of Computer Science, Kista
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1992 02:21:02 GMT

In article <TJWU.92Dec11022714@marinara.mit.edu> tjwu@athena.mit.edu (Thomas J Wu) writes:

>In article <1992Dec10.212159.22023@adobe.com> asanders@adobe.com (Alan Sanders) writes:
>>  Pardon me for being so blunt, but the only USM lenses that
>>  are better than AF Nikkors are the ones in an ad man's dreams!
>>  Not including the Canon "L" lenses, of course, which are at
>>  least as good as the best Nikkors for sure. But Canon's popularly-
>>  priced "comsumer" USM lenses are not the greatest lenses Canon
>>  ever made! Test reports on these lenses have been generally
>>  unexceptional, and they appear to be very cheaply constructed.
>>  Only time will tell if they are more durable than they look.

>Not quite.  The test reports I've seen indicate that they are at least
>as good as their non-USM counterparts, with exceptions here and there.
>For example, the 28-80 USM performed very impressively in PP's lens
>tests, especially in the SQFs.  Obviously, they aren't as good as
>their "L" lenses, but a good value for the money, especially if you
>consider fast, quite AF a significant advantage.  I must agree,
>though, that they do contain lots of polycarbonate instead of metal.

There are three "levels" of USM lenses in the Canon EF lens linup:
1. The "L" lenses, which are, more or less without an exception,
   outstanding. (20-35/2.8L, 28-80/2.8-4L, 14/2.8L, 50/1L, 85/1.2L,
   200/1.8L, 200/2.8L, TS-E 24/3.5L, 300/2.8L, 300/4L, 400/2.8L,
   500/4.5L, 600/4L)
2. The normal USM lenses (20/2.8, 85/1.8, 100/2, 28-80/3.5-5.6,
   28-105/3.5-4.5, 35-135/4-5.6, 70-210/3.5-4.5, 100-300/4.5-5.6).
   These compare favorably with the lenses from any of the major
   manufacturers. Well built, metal lens mounts, partly built out of
   metal and partly out of plastic (polycarbonate).
3. The low-cost USMs (made for Rebels mostly)(35-80/4-5.6,
   35-105/4.5-5.6, 75-300/4-5.6, 80-200/4.5-5.6)E. They all (with one
   exception) have plastic (polycarbonate) lens mounts, and lack
   focusing scales. They don't seem to built to take much abuse.
   Optically they are OK, but obviously not at the same level as the
   "L" lenses.
--
Per Danielsson				pd@sics.se
Swedish Institute of Computer Science, PO Box 1263, S-164 28 KISTA, SWEDEN
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: mcovingt@aisun3.ai.uga.edu (Michael Covington)
Subject: Re: Dumb Photographers
Organization: AI Programs, University of Georgia, Athens
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 21:04:26 GMT

What I told the professional at my wedding:

"Never forget that we are _having_ a wedding, not making a film of one!"


-- 
:-  Michael A. Covington     internet mcovingt@uga.cc.uga.edu :   Verbum caro
:-  Artificial Intelligence Programs       phone 706 542-0358 :    factum est
:-  The University of Georgia                fax 706 542-0349 :  et habitavit
:-  Athens, Georgia 30602-7415 U.S.A.     amateur radio N4TMI :   in nobis...
From: bu890@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Brian Segal)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Vivitar 2x for Hasselblad
Date: 17 Dec 1992 04:56:32 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


2X converters CAN be used with longer lenses..it's just that the
Makro-Planar is a rather special lens design and isn't at optimum
with a 2x (even a Mutar) at widest apertures.  The 2x mutar is supposed to
be supurb with the 350.

brian
From: jack@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk (Jack Campin)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: MAMIYA CABIN 67
Date: 15 Dec 92 20:46:38 GMT
Reply-To: jack@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk (Jack Campin)
Organization: COMANDOS Project, Glesga Yoonie

Rinne@PC386.ikw.uni-hannover.dbp.de (Frank Rinne) wrote:
> I'am looking for a slide projector for my Pentax 67.
> Can I receive some informations about the Mamiya Cabin 67 projector.

Isn't the most basic bit of information about it the fact that there simply
*aren't* any other 6x7 projectors?

-- 
--  Jack Campin    room G092, Computing Science Department, Glasgow University,
17 Lilybank Gardens, Glasgow G12 8RZ, Scotland   TEL: 041 339 8855 x6854 (work)
INTERNET: jack@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk or via nsfnet-relay.ac.uk    FAX: 041 330 4913
BANG!net: via mcsun and uknet     BITNET: via UKACRL    UUCP: jack@glasgow.uucp
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: C.B.Christie@massey.ac.nz (C.B. Christie)
Subject: Chinese cherry in HongKong?
Organization: Massey University, Palmerston North, New Zealand
X-Reader: NETNEWS/PC Version 2c
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 92 22:01:10 GMT



Hi Netters

Does anyone know anything about a chinese?? cherry that has some special
significance in HongKong and maybe other asian countries?

I understand small plants fetch very high prices when sold in flower in
february.

All this arose from an intriguing phone call that came in the other day
and I was passed on this info second, well third hand.

I am interested in knowing what species or cultivar is required and
evaluating production opportunities that may exist; any useful comments
appreciated.

Thanks very much

Bruce Christie
Department of Plant Science, Massey University
Palmerston North, New Zealand

email: C.B.Christie@massey.ac.nz
From: dmiller@theory.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Spading Fork Recommedations
Date: 15 Dec 92 14:30:39 GMT
Article-I.D.: mintaka.1992Dec15.143039.29940
Distribution: na
Organization: Laboratory for Computer Science, MIT

maynard@fuzzy.Corp.Sun.COM (Alexandra R. Ohlson) asks:

>I'm looking for a recommendation of a good solid spading fork - and
>where to get it for a reasonable price - mail order would be fine,
>there's no rush.
>
>We live in the San Francisco bay area - specifically Palo Alto - in
>an area that used to be bay bottom (a loooooong time ago). The soil
>is adobe clay, which when dry is cement and which when wet is sticky,
>gluey, heavy and awful.
---stuff deleted----
>
>Thanks,
>alexandra
>
If you can wait a year or so you can pile compostables in the area you want 
to dig to a depth of 18" or so and let the worms to the turning.  In your 
area this would mean doing it in the winter when the ground is damp and the 
worms are most active.

--Jill

--
A. Richard & Jill A. Miller            | Miller Microcomputer Services |
InterNet: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu       | 61 Lake Shore Road            |
Voice: 508/653-6136, 9am-9pm EasternTZ | Natick, MA 01760-2099, USA    |
From: vln@icpsr.umich.edu (Victoria Neff)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: How much water do poinsettias want?
Date: 16 Dec 1992 15:16:17 GMT
Organization: Inter-University Consortium for Political and Social Research
NNTP-Posting-Host: tdis.icpsr.umich.edu

I hope someone hasnt' just asked this (and I missed it)....  How do
poinsettias like to be watered?

Thanks!

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: dmiller@theory.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller)
Subject: Re: Burmuda Grass
Organization: Laboratory for Computer Science, MIT
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 19:44:03 GMT

>
>If you are thinking about planting bermuda grass, THINK AGAIN!!
>I don't know you, but I consider myself your friend. DON'T PLANT BERMUDA
>GRASS!!!!!!!!!!!!!  

This sounds similar to what we in New England call witch grass which is 
called quack grass by my Dad from Minnesota.  If so, you have my sympathy.  
Is it indeed the same?  Kay, help?  Latin names?

--Jill

--
A. Richard & Jill A. Miller            | Miller Microcomputer Services |
InterNet: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu       | 61 Lake Shore Road            |
Voice: 508/653-6136, 9am-9pm EasternTZ | Natick, MA 01760-2099, USA    | 

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: krogers@javelin.sim.es.com (K. Rogers)
Subject: Re: Spading fork recommendations
Reply-To: krogers@javelin.sim.es.com
Organization: Evans & Sutherland Computer Corp., Salt Lake City, Utah
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 17:53:23 GMT

klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes:

>As to construction, the forged (not welded) tools seem to be the strongest.
>I prefer YD handles (the handle is split at the tip into a Y shape, capped
>with a crosspiece of wood).  They're easier for me to handle.  Many folks,
>though, seem to prefer the long-handled straight handles.  Just a matter
>of personal preference, I guess.

I'm a definite long-handled advocate, far less strain on my back since
I don't have to be in a permanent stoop while using it.  Perhaps this
isn't such a big deal if you're shorter than I, though at 6'2" I'm not
really that tall.  Guess it's personal preference.  Once I got my
first long-handled one, though, I gave the other away and actually
started *using* it.  That's when I discovered that spading forks are
really useful gadgets, not back breaking torture devices for dwarves
(my dwarf brother has no troubles with YD handles).
-- 
Keith Rogers
krogers@javelin.sim.es.com
From: Bob.Batson@mtask.omahug.org (Bob Batson)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: topiary and other garden decorations
Date: 19 Dec 92 13:56:58 CST
Reply-To: bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org
Organization: Multitasking Systems, Kansas City
Followup-To: rec.gardens

ramirez@julia.math.ucla.edu (Alice Ramirez) writes:

 > This is probably a sign that I've lived in So.Cal too long, but I find

                              [TEXT DELETED]

 > Is there anyone who sells (for a REASONABLE price) small to medium sized
 > topiary frames in the form of other animals, such as giraffes, elephants
 > birds, cats, Triceratops, Apatosaurs, Stegosaurs, Pteranodons, etc. etc.
 > I'm thinking of mail order catalogues, here. Odds are slim to none that 
 > I'm going to find what I want locally. Garden centers have a REALLY
 >  BORING
 > selection, and everybody seems to have the same things. Also would be 
 > interested in any how-to books on the subject of topiary.

The following four sources for topiary frames are from the book _Gardening
by Mail: A Source Book_ by Barbara J. Barton (ISBN 0-395-52280-3), 3rd
edition. As I've never had any dealings with these companies before, I
honestly can't say how "reasonable" they are.

        VINE ARTS                               [CATalog - $2,]
        P.O. Box 83014                          [Deductible from]
        Portland, OR 97203-0014                 [1st order]
        (503) 289-7505

They will create custom shapes for you, in addition to their standard
supply of frames.
--------
        TOPIARY, INC.                           [CAT - FREE]
        41 Bering
        Tampa, FL 33606
        (813) 254-3229

Besides selling frames, they also sell "The Complete Book of Topiary" by
Gallup & Reich, to help you get started.
--------
        KENNETH LYNCH & SONS, INC.              [CAT - $8]
        84 Danbury Road
        Wilton, CT 06897
        (203) 762-8363

A very broad selection of garden ornaments: furniture, statues, planters
and urns, gates, topiary frames, etc. Over 10,000 different items.
--------
        GARDEN MAGIC                            [CAT - FREE]
        2001-1/2 Fairview Road                  [MIN. ORD. - $25]
        Raleigh, NC 277608
        (919) 833-7315


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Bob Batson                   | "Deck us all with all with Boston Charlie, 
bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org  |  Walla, Walla, Wash., and Kalamazoo!"      

From: Val.Gillman@altern8.mi.org (Val Gillman)
Sender: FredMail@altern8.mi.org
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Small vines
Date: 12 Dec 92  02:17:00 EST

Does anyone know of a small vine -3 to 5 ft- that doesn't need
much sun? I'd like to train it over my garden gate which gets an
hour sun in the morning and an hour at night.  Annual or
perennial.  Ivy was dissapointing last year.  Wouldn't grow.
Zone 5. Thanks

 * XXYW 1.12 * And now......The Larch.....

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: psmith@alfred.carleton.ca (Peter Smith)
Subject: Giant Pumpkins for Store Display
Organization: Carleton University
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 16:02:11 GMT

It won't be long until I'm ordering seed again, so I thought I'd see
if anyone had any experience/input with giant pumpkins.  I grew and
sold some last season, and plan to do so again this coming year.  

I will probably grow both Atlantic Giant and Prizewinner.  The latter
is smaller but has a beautiful colour.

Questions:

1. Is growing on a board the best way to avoid rotting once put on
display?  If not, can you suggest other techniques, please.

2. What sort of size would you say most display managers want or would
you say shape is more important than size, once over a certain minimum
size?

3. Have you had any other good results with other than Prizewinner or
Atlantic Giant varieties?  I've seen Big Max around, but I just can't
imagine selling one for display unless it is over 150lbs these days.

I look forward to your comments.

P.S.  I'll post a synopsis if I get many comments.  Thanks in advance.

 
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: dmiller@theory.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Birds in the garden
Date: 16 Dec 92 22:21:02 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Laboratory for Computer Science, MIT

ljane@devnull.mpd.tandem.com (Linda Cast) asks:

Subject: Birds in the garden

> A question on birds - we're in Texas and there is a flock of parrots or
> parakeets that someone let loose years ago, that are thriving here.
> Has anyone let loose finches or canaries or other non-migratory birds
> in their yards? It seems like if they were acclimated, they might at least
> stay in the neighborhood. Would other birds drive them off? 
>
> Thanks,
> Linda

This would be a very bad idea.

People have been talking about introduced plant species here and I'd like 
to warn about the same problems with birds.

There are five birds which are or are becoming real nuisances in North 
America, all introduced; the House (English) Sparrow, the Starling, the 
Rock Dove (pigeon), the House Finch and the Monk Parakeet.

The first two are European birds brought here during the Victorian craze 
for introducing European species here.  They have spread over the entire 
continent except for severe arctic regions and have pushed out many local 
song birds.

The Rock Dove was brought over as a domestic bird and can be a nuisance in 
the cities and at highway underpasses where it nests.

The House Finch, a west-coast bird, was inadvertantly introduced in the 
east when several pairs which were being illegally sold in New York City 
were let go just as the federal inspectors arrived.  They have since spread 
rapid in the east and have even displaced the House Sparrow in some places.


I don't remember how the Monk Parakeet became established, presumably by 
people letting them go in their backyards, but it has become a serious 
agricultural pest in fruit-growing areas, AND IT IS STILL SPREADING.

NONE OF THE ABOVE BIRDS IS MIGRATORY.

Plese don't let cage birds go outside.  If they don't make it, you have 
condemned them to a death by starving or predation.   If they do make it, 
they are likely to become a pest and push out our own native birds (which 
are in trouble due to environmental problems already.

--Jill

--
A. Richard & Jill A. Miller            | Miller Microcomputer Services |
InterNet: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu       | 61 Lake Shore Road            |
Voice: 508/653-6136, 9am-9pm EasternTZ | Natick, MA 01760-2099, USA    |
From: Bob.Batson@mtask.omahug.org (Bob Batson)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: WANTED: Disa seeds or seed sources
Date: 19 Dec 92 13:25:08 CST
Reply-To: bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org
Organization: Multitasking Systems, Kansas City
Followup-To: rec.gardens

awootten@slacktide.cv.nrao.edu (Al Wootten) writes:

 > I obtained seed from the South African Botanical Society--fifteen free
 > packs of South African seeds come with a year's subscription. 

                              [TEXT DELETED]

 > I don't have the address, but I believe that if you write the society at
 > Kirstenbosch, South Africa the posting would probably get through.

        BOTANICAL SOCIETY OF SOUTH AFRICA
        Diana Peters
        Kirstenbosch
        Claremont, Cape Town, South Africa 7735

Anual dues are either $18 in US currency or $20 in CAN currency. In
addition to Kirstenbosch, the society supports seven other botanical
gardens.


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Bob Batson                   | "Deck us all with all with Boston Charlie, 
bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org  |  Walla, Walla, Wash., and Kalamazoo!"
From: jhb@calmasd.prime.com (Jim Bishop)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Weeds over-running Korean grass, help!
Date: 9 Dec 92 21:41:08 GMT
Organization: -

In article <1g3atmINNqtd@mizar.usc.edu>, montana@mizar.usc.edu (Robert Montana) writes:
> 
> I have 16' by 16' plot of Korean grass (Zoysia) that is in danger
> of being over-run with a clover-type weed.  I had been meticulous
> about weeding and it was fairly easy to maintain because the sod
> is thick and the weed roots can barely reach the soil.  Well I got busy
> last spring and weeded everything but the clover figuring I would
> get a round to it and the clover would be the easiest to pull since
> it has a single deep root.  I never got that round to it and the clover
> developed and spread via runners.  I tried weeding out the runners
> but that would have taken several entire days which I didn't have,
> and still it wouldn't assure successful iradication.  I tried spraying
> 'Round-Up' week killer spray, but that wasn't even as affective as
> manually weeding.
> 
> Help!  The clover has over-run about 20% of the plot and threatens the
> remainder.
> 

You have oxalis.  You will have it for life.  It readily reseeds and
spreads by runners and the leftover roots from pulling.  Hand pulling
when young is best, but as you noted it requires a big time
commitment.  They sell herbicides that are specific for oxalis, but
they don't work well.  They also need hot sunny weather to have any
effect at all.

If you find something that works better, I'd love to hear it.

Jim
From: Bob.Batson@mtask.omahug.org (Bob Batson)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Broccoflower seeds?
Date: 14 Dec 92 14:26:39 CST
Reply-To: bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org
Organization: Multitasking Systems, Kansas City
Followup-To: rec.gardens

linda@hpfcmdd.fc.hp.com (Linda Jackson) writes:

 > I am looking for seeds for Broccoflower, a cross between broccoli and 
 > cauliflower.  It is a real taste treat, and I would like to try my
 > hand at growing it.  

                              [TEXT DELETED]

I was unable to find any listing for a BROCCOFLOWER in my reference books,
but did find a mention of a PURPLE CAULIFLOWER or PURPLE SPROUTING
CAULIFLOWER. "...The flacor is richer than that of white cauliflower, but
milder than that of green sprouting broccoli."

If this sounmds at all like your Broccoflower, let me know and I'll post
some mail-order sources.



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Bob Batson                   | "Deck us all with all with Boston Charlie, 
bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org  |  Walla, Walla, Wash., and Kalamazoo!"
From: Bob.Batson@mtask.omahug.org (Bob Batson)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: More on Use of CCA-Treated Wood in Gardens
Date: 15 Dec 92 18:24:37 CST
Reply-To: bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org
Organization: Multitasking Systems, Kansas City
Followup-To: rec.gardens

                More on Use of CCA-Treated Wood in Gardens

  On page 91 of the August 1992 _HortIdeas_, we reported that researchers
in New Zealand have suggested that sawdust from preservative-treated wood
(CCA: copper/chromium/arsenic) might be suitable for use as an amendment
for garden soils, despite evidence the roots of some plants growing in
contact with such sawdust can concentrate copper, chromium, and arsenic
"to high levels." But what about the safety of placing CCA-treated
"landscape timbers" in close proximity to food plants? Master Gardeners in
Bexar County, Texas, took soil samples six inches deep and one inch
laterally from CCA-treated timbers in several gardens, old and new; they
compared arsenic levels in those samples to levels in samples taken 12
inches laterally from the timbers. The results: between 1.1 and 1.4 parts
per million of arsenic, regardless of whether the samples were taken near
treated timbers or not. Arsenic often occurs naturally in soils at levels
up to 20 parts per million; experts consider dangerous levels to be in
the 200-300 parts per million range. The Master Gardeners concluded (in
agreement with the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency) that CCA-treated
timbers are acceptable for use in vegetable gardens.
  The Master Gardeners also tested for creosote in garden soil near used
railroad ties; none was detected down to the limits of the testing
apparatus (660 parts per billion).
  Reference: Calvin Finch, "Can I Use That Wood? Railroad Ties and
Landscape Timbers Are Safe," THE GARDEN GATE, October 1992, 5. (Lane
County Extension Service, 950 W. 13th Ave., Eugene, OR 97402.)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Reprinted with permission from the November 1992 _HortIdeas_. Copyright
1992 by Greg and Pat Williams. HortIdeas is $15 (2nd class mail within the
USA) for one year (12 issues). For more information or a subscription,
write: HortIdeas, 460 Black Lick Road, Gravel Switch, KY 40328, USA. 


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Bob Batson
bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org