HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: parnass@cbnewse.cb.att.com (Bob Parnass, AJ9S)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Selecting Drill Press
Summary: Bench vs. floor stand drill presses. Brad point and Forstner
	 bits.
Date: 10 Sep 92 18:57:42 GMT
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories, Naperville, IL

In article <1992Sep10.180153.24851@morrow.stanford.edu>,
GE.RLF@forsythe.stanford.edu (Rich Froisness) asks:

 
   > .. Should I be looking at a floor model or bench model (my shop area
   > could probable provide space for either)?
   > 
   > What kind of options should I need for basic woodworking?


 Although I first wanted a floor model  drill  press,  I
 bought  a  Delta  14"  bench  drill press at a low sale
 price.  A few years later I  sold  it  and  bought  the
 Delta 16-1/2" floor model I wanted all along.

 Although they are both good tools, I prefer  the  floor
 model for several reasons:

  1.  It has 12 speeds instead of 5 speeds.  Its  lowest
      speed  is  250 RPM vs 620 RPM for the bench model,
      and the low speed is especially useful  for  dril-
      ling  big  holes  in  metal and using non drilling
      attachments (sanding).
  2.  At higher speeds, the floor model is  more  stable
      (less   vibration)   than  the  bench  model  was,
      although that may have been due  in  part  to  not
      bolting the stand to the bench.
  3.  The floor model has  a  3/4  HP  115/220  V  motor
      versus a 1/2 HP 115 V only motor.
  4.  Obviously, the 16-1/2" floor mount has more  capa-
      city  than  the  14" bench mount, in both chuck to
      table and chuck to base dimensions.
  5.  The table is slightly larger on the floor model
  6.  Bigger chuck capacity -- 5/8" vs. 1/2".

 The Sears drills looked  similar  but  they  were  more
 expensive and had different motors than Delta.

 For woodworking, a set of brad point twist drills and a
 set of Forstner bits are what you need.  The brad point
 drills have a slight spike on the center which  prevent
 the  tip  from  wandering.  I have a set made by Bosch,
 found in many home center and woodworking stores.

 The Forstner bits drill (almost) flat bottom holes.   I
 bought  Freud  Forstner bits one at a time, and usually
 on sale.

 Good luck.

-- 
==============================================================================
Bob Parnass, AJ9S  -  AT&T Bell Labs  -  parnass@ihlpm.att.com - (708)979-5414
             Don't use "team" as a euphemism for "committee." 
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 14 Sep 1992 20:16:38 EDT
From:         FABY000 <FABY@NMUMUS.BITNET>
Subject:      Shopvac

I just fininshed working in my shop and swept it with my Shpovac.  I
have had the vac about two years and I am constantly irritated by the
hoses coming off when I use it.  My second criticism is the very short
cord that comes with the vac.  Do others experience the problem with the
hoses and if so do you have a way to keep them on?  It seems to me the
manufacturers could correct the hose problem if they cared to.  Roger
Barry
From: porcelli@trabs.serum.kodak.com (Rocco Porcelli (x69853))
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: joining edges of wood
Date: 11 Sep 92 18:22:14 GMT
Reply-To: porcelli@serum.kodak.com
Distribution: na
Organization: Clinical Products Division, Eastman Kodak Company

In article <10070029@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM>, shaw@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Shaw Moldauer) writes:
>> Everything I've read indicates that dowels and biscuits both reduce
>> the strength of the joint, but they both help with alignment.

>I agree with the second part of this statement, but I've never heard
>anyone say that dowels or biscuits reduce the strength of a joint.
>Can you provide a reference for this?  I can almost see it for dowels --
>if they weren't perfectly aligned, perhaps straining to make them fit
>would bow the wood slightly, reducing the contact area.  But that
>wouldn't happen with biscuits.  

I've had problems with doweled joints coming apart.  The joint can be forced apart if the dowel holes do not align perfectly.  The dowels act as sort of a lever and prevent the joint from staying tight.  With the strength of the glues we have today there is really no need for extra support on edge glued boards.

Biscuits on the other hand are quite useful with regards to gluing up boards.  From everything I've heard is that they do make the joint stronger.  They do not force the boards apart like dowels do because the slots are cut big enough to give some play in the lateral direction.  They also have the property of holding the boards together not only by the strength of the glue but also that they swell and hold tight in the slot.

I used to dowel my edge glued boards until I noticed some of the boards coming apart.  I then gave up the dowels and just edge glued them.  When I was building cupboards for a new kitchen I was able to justify a buiscuit joiner to my wife.  Boy, am I glad I did.  I don't rely on it so much for added strength to the joint.  What I love about it is how much easier it is to align the boards.  Even boards that may be warped a little.  I do a lot less sanding and scraping since I've got the buiscuit joiner.
From: rer@hpfcdc.fc.hp.com (Rob Robason)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: dado blade & birch
Date: 14 Sep 92 15:29:09 GMT
Organization: HP Fort Collins, Co.

I run cherry and oak through my wobble type dado regularly and get good
results.  3/4" cuts have not been a problem.  It will chip out the rear
of the cut so I always put a scrap behind the work piece to prevent
this.  Of course the depth of the cut should not be great, I personally
don't like taking more than about 3/8" depth per pass on a 3/4" wide
dado, but then that's about as deep as I ever go anyway.

Rob
From: pauls@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Paul Stafford)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Cutting aluminum on a table saw
Date: 15 Sep 92 15:29:01 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Rosa, CA


 When I was building my airplane, I had to taper the spar caps, which were
 long pieces of 2" x 1/4" 6065T6 aluminum. The designers plans said to use 
 a hollow ground planer blade, which I did. It worked fine, and relatively
 fast, too. Caution- the pieces get VERY HOT.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Fine Woodworking Mag.
From: jocon@tribiet.maintech.com (Joe Connors)
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 92 12:35:10 PDT
Organization: Tribiet: A city much like hell.

        I am looking for back issues of Fine Woodworking Mag.
I am looking to complete my collection. My collection starts with
issue #48 Sep/Oct 1984. I need issues #1 thru 47. I prefer just
these issues but will accept larger collections as well. Please
E-mail me your price and specifics and I will get back to you.
Thanks!
 
 
 
                                Joe Connors
                                Carlsbad, CA
                                (619)431-9028
 
What is the sound
of one hand clapping?......:)
 
================================================================
From: jec@eeyore.Boeing.COM (Jim Campbell)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Table Saw Kickback
Date: 15 Sep 92 18:19:50 GMT
Organization: The Boeing Co., Seattle, Wa.

In article <1992Sep15.000330.26471@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com> billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson) writes:
>norm@strobe.ATC.Olivetti.Com (Norm Carpenter x3055) writes:
>: From what I have read, you should NOT have your fence parallel to the
>: blade, but have it open away from the blade slightly at the rear.  ...
>
>This has been argued for decades. The "experts" still can not come to a
>concensus...  If you have the far end of the fence slightly
>further away from the blade ... this means occasional jamming and kickback.
>
It also means you can't use the fence on the other side of the blade,
should the necessity to do so arise.
From: tonyo@pendragon.CNA.TEK.COM (Tony Ozrelic)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Table Saw Kickback
Keywords: kickback
Date: 11 Sep 92 16:35:53 GMT
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Redmond,  OR.

In article <595@fjcp60.GOV> jwh@fjc.GOV (jwh) writes:
>Recently, I've had a couple of incidents of kickback from my table
>saw, and I thought I'd solicit some net.opinions.  Both cuts were
>what I would consider fairly small pieces being ripped.  I went
>to considerable care to prevent the piece between the blade and
>the fence from being kicked back (using a fence-straddling hold
>down, push sticks, feather boards, etc.).  Interestingly (perversely?)
>the piece that kicked back was the offcut, to the left of the blade
>(the rip fence was to the right).  What seemed to happen was that
>the cut off piece, which was completely unsupported as the cut
>was completed, drifted into the blade and wham-o, you can guess
>the rest.

Well, I've found (the hard way) that if the saw blade is not parallel to
the fence, you get kickback. Double check your blade/fence alignment.

How I found this out is that I moved my saw from the old house to the new one
and in the process, the blade got misaligned; the far side of the blade was
closer to the fence than the near side. The result was that the plywood got
caught, spun around (making a 1/4" arc-gouge in the good side), and slammed
into my knuckles. The saw then popped the breaker, plunging the garage into
darkness. Very scary, my hand throbbing and not knowing if I had cut off
any parts of my anatomy!

Moral(s) of the story:

1. Double check saw/fence/miter alignment after a big move.
2. Never operate power equipment on the lighting circuit.
3. Get some yellow ShopHelpers from Grizzly.

tony "weekend woodbutcher" o.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: SYSGAM@SUVM.SYR.EDU (Glenn A. Malling)
Subject: Re: joining edges of wood
Organization: Syracuse University
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 92 11:18:56 EDT

In article <1992Sep11.182214.20260@clpd.kodak.com>
porcelli@trabs.serum.kodak.com (Rocco Porcelli (x69853)) writes:
 
>
>In article <10070029@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM>, shaw@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Shaw Moldauer) writes:
>>> Everything I've read indicates that dowels and biscuits both reduce
>>> the strength of the joint, but they both help with alignment.
>
>>I agree with the second part of this statement, but I've never heard
>>anyone say that dowels or biscuits reduce the strength of a joint.
>>Can you provide a reference for this?  I can almost see it for dowels --
>>if they weren't perfectly aligned, perhaps straining to make them fit
>>would bow the wood slightly, reducing the contact area.  But that
>>wouldn't happen with biscuits.
 
The reason to *not* dowel an edge glued joint is that it creates a
cross grain joint.  In the summer when the board absorbs moisture
it wants to expand.  Expansion across the grain is greater than along
the grain so either you have to stretch the dowel or crush the cells
in the edge glued boards.  The dowel doesn't stretch!  Then in the
winter when the boards looses moisture the joint fails and at the
least weakens since the dowel doesn't compress along it long axis
either.
 
I haven't looked closely at the biscuits used by biscuit joiners but
I would hope that the grain is oriented properly to avoid a cross
grain joint.  A local furniture company uses tongue and groove for
all of their edge glued assemblies.  Not to make it stronger but
to simply alignment.
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Hutch building suggestions requested
Keywords: hutch, cheap wood
Date: 14 Sep 92 01:46:56 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <1992Sep13.174045.20549@afit.af.mil> fkilpatr@afit.af.mil (Freeman A. Kilpatrick) writes:
>B) (This is a more general question)  This is the first project I have built with
>drawers, an internal frame, etc.  I am curious to know where I can "cheat" and not
>use hard wood.  Can I make the carcase frame from pine since it doesn't show?  How
>bout the drawer sides?  And the drawer backs?  I would appreciate any advice,
>experienced or not, email or post is fine.

I've used both pine and what I'm about to suggest.

Poplar (aka Whitewood) will probably be a better choice for "secondary wood".
While it is a hardwood, it isn't that much harder than pine (probably softer
that *some* pines).  It machines easily.  It's *much* easier to work than
oak.  You can usually get clear poplar for considerably less money than you'd
pay for clear pine.  Furthermore, I believe it's less subject to warping than
pine.

Most softwoods can leak pitch, especially around knots.  Especially pine.
Unless you're intending to make pine your primary wood, dealing with
potential pitch leakage is generally not worth the bother, especially not
on secondary wood.

Poplar also stains easier than pine.  But its grain is particularly boring,
and poplar sometimes has a greenish tinge.  So it's better for secondary
wood, or painted.  I wouldn't use poplar for primary wood on something I was
intending to stain/clear finish.

Poplar is quite commonly used as a secondary wood by furniture manufacturers.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: gonzo@tversky.psych.washington.edu (Rich Gonzalez)
Subject: dado blade & birch
Organization: University of Washington
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 04:13:53 GMT

I just bought my first dado blade (acu-edge, carbide tipped).  Have
been practicing on pine, and happy with the results.
Then I switched to some scrap birch I have in my shop.  It just chipped 
away and the results were ugly (luckily I didn't get hurt).

Why?   Is this one of the drawbacks of a wobble-type dado blade?  Is
my 10" Delta Contractors not powerful enough to handle dado blades?
Oh, I had it set at 3/4" dado--should I use narrower cuts with
several passes? 


-- 

rich gonzalez
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 11 Sep 1992 10:55:44 CDT
From:         Jeff Roberts <JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Which side gets the cleaner cut?
              10 Sep 1992 18:25:47 GMT from <dwb@CBNEWSB.CB.ATT.COM>

On Thu, 10 Sep 1992 18:25:47 GMT david.boyle said:
>I have some bi-fold closet doors to put up which need to be trimmed less than
>1" to better accommodate the rug.  I was planning on trimming the bottom of
>the doors on a RAS.  What type of blade should I be using for a "clean" cut?
>Should I place the finish side up or down when cutting?  Any other ideas to
>keep the door from splintering etc?  Thanks in advance.........Dave

I'd temporarily tack a strip of 1/4" plywood to both sides of the line to be
cut and set the opposite end of the door with a 1/4" spacer to keep the door
nice and flat during the cut

Jeff Robert jroberts@utdallas.edu
From: kevin@cs.adelaide.edu.au (Kevin Maciunas)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: My name is Tim, and I am a molding nerd...
Date: 9 Sep 92 07:05:42 GMT
	<1992Sep7.003853.29475@cc.uow.edu.au>
Organization: CS Dept, University of Adelaide
NNTP-Posting-Host: bremerer.cs.adelaide.edu.au
In-reply-to: pdunster@cc.uow.edu.au's message of 7 Sep 92 00:38:53 GMT

In article <1992Sep7.003853.29475@cc.uow.edu.au> pdunster@cc.uow.edu.au (peter dunster) writes:

   While on the subject, one of my favourite tools is my Stanley #55, complete
   except for the centre runner. Would anyone happen to know where I may be
   able to get a replacement?.  Is there anywhere still making blades to fit
   the #55??.

I too posess a lovely #55.  Mine's missing the little right angle
bracket which holds the centre depth stop.  Anyone knowing the
whereabouts of any replacement bits should post the details!  Apart
from the fact that the #55 looks like a widget from a 19th century
surgeons toolbox, it is a really wonderful tool, but I'm the first to
admit that sharpening the cutters is a pain..  What I need is an
apprentice!

I've made a few cutters myself - never been able to get any
replacements except the ones Garret Wade have for their paragon
lookalike and it has an incomplete (by 55 standards) range.

Hope that helps..


/Kevin
--
Kevin J. Maciunas			Net: kevin@cs.adelaide.edu.au
Dept. of Computer Science		Ph : +61 8 228 5845
University of Adelaide			Fax: +61 8 228 1206
GPO BOX 498 Adelaide 5000
SOUTH AUSTRALIA
From: drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas Rand)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Why use anything but a butt joint?
Date: 11 Sep 92 17:56:53 GMT
Organization: Open Software Foundation

In article <BuF33D.4ot@cs.dal.ca> armstrng@cs.dal.ca (Stan Armstrong) writes:

   I understand about the mechanical strengths of various interlocking joints.
   I understand about the increased glue surface areas of various joints.

   However, modern glues are "stronger than the wood."

   Why use anything but a butt joint?

   Does the answer lie in the word "stronger"? Are the glues stronger under
   tension but not under sheer, or something like that?

   Does the answer lie in differences in the strength of the wood? It is much
   easier to fracture along the grain than across the grain.

   Does the answer lie in changes in glue strength with age?

   I know that end-grain to long-grain glue joints are weak. But I have in mind
   other kinds of "butt" joints, that is, joints with no mechanical support.
   Most people agree that edge glued joints have no need of mechanical
   strengthening or increased glue surface. What about a lap joint where no
   cuts have been used--just cross two sticks and glue them surface to
   surface at the crossing?

   As a corollary to my question: Are there other traditional joints, besides,
   dowelled edge joints, which have been obsoleted by modern glues?

The answer lies in alot of areas and places.  The short answer is 
no.  Even infinitely strong glues would not obviate the need for
good joinery.  Even glues that somehow managed to make joining
end-grain to something work.

The problem is that glues only work at the surface of the glued
object.  They can't make wood strong in ways that wood isn't 
strong.  The primary reasons we make joints are to 

Increase gluing area (finger joints,  dovetails,  splines)   

and/or

Provide mechanical rigidity (most frame joints,  splines) 

Without this you would find that even ideal glues wouldn't hold,  for
example,  a chair together.  The wood fibers would be pulled apart
by the stresses, and the chair would fall apart.

Another way to think is this:  Glues hold things in place,  not together.
Not 100% true (as you noted about edge glued boards) but pretty true.
--
Douglas S. Rand <drand@osf.org>		OSF/Motif Dev.
Snail:         11 Cambridge Center,  Cambridge,  MA  02142
Disclaimer:    I don't know if OSF agrees with me... let's vote on it.
Amateur Radio: KC1KJ
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Reassembling and Finishing Chair
From: hosken@spss.com (Bill Hosken)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 20:53:42 GMT
Organization: SPSS, Inc.

In article <jeffz-080992081804@tuolumne.cray.com>, jeffz@cray.com (Jeff Zais) writes:
> I'm currently working on an old chair which needed to be re-glued 
> and to be refinished.  So far I've disassembled the chair into 
> 19 pieces and removed the old finish with Formby's.  I'm about
> to begin glueing the chair back together. 

Next time you might consider doing all the repair and reassembly before
the stripping.  Then the newer parts ( if any) would take on some of the
old stains and any glue cleanup would occur during the stripping.
From: kell@lark.jsc.nasa.gov (TED KELL)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: SHAKER WORKSHOPS
Date: 10 Sep 1992 21:17:17 GMT
Reply-To: kell@lark.jsc.nasa.gov
Organization: NASA Johnson Space Flight Center - Clear Lake City, TX, USA
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.3-4

In article <10SEP199208213433@ariel.lerc.nasa.gov>, smchuck@ariel.lerc.nasa.gov (Charles Lawrence) writes...
>I JUST RECEIVED A CATALOG FROM SHAKER WORKSHOPS AND AM THINKING
>ABOUT TRYING THEIR KITS FOR CHAIRS. DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY EXPERIENCE
>OR FEEDBACK ON SHAKER WORKSHOPS PRODUCTS?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 

I built one of their rockers about 10 years ago.  It still rocks.  As I recall
it was fairly east to put together.  Hardest thing was weaving my pattern into
the back
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Fences & Hold-Downs
Date: 8 Sep 92 16:18:43 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA

patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie) writes:
: 
: Good advice, but not what I need. I've carried a full measured load before,
: so I know how the springs should look. My problem is this.
: 
:    I need to buy "x" amount of lumber.
:    Store "a" carries lumber at an excellent price, but I must pick and
:      haul my own to get good quality.
:    Store "b" has good quality stuff and will deliver, but it'll cost
:      about $100 more.
:    If the lumber requires more than three loads, store "b" is the bset
:      deal. If not, store "a" is best.
:    How many trips will I have to make?
: 
: So - roughly how much does a 10' 2x6 (or any other yardstick timber) weigh
: in PT pine? My best guess (based on picking one up) is around 70 pounds?
: Any better info?

Well, Pine weighs about 40-45 pounds per cubic foot when reasonably dry,
depending on the species.  Pressure treating adds a little weight also.

Assuming 45 pounds/ft^3 - this comes to 3.75 lbs/bd-ft. So  a 10' length of
2x6 (a bit under 10 bd-ft) will weigh a bit under 37.5 pounds. 

In other words - 1000 bd-ft will weigh about 3750 pounds - almost two tons.

Bill
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: smchuck@ariel.lerc.nasa.gov (Charles Lawrence)
Subject: SHAKER WORKSHOPS
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
Date: 10 Sep 1992 08:21 EST  

I JUST RECEIVED A CATALOG FROM SHAKER WORKSHOPS AND AM THINKING
ABOUT TRYING THEIR KITS FOR CHAIRS. DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY EXPERIENCE
OR FEEDBACK ON SHAKER WORKSHOPS PRODUCTS?





Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bednarek@picard.med.ge.com (Dennis Bednarek Mfg 4-6971)
Subject: shop tools
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 92 08:58:44 GMT



I have a very basic shop and want to expand it.  My desire is to be able
to build furnature however I come up with a list of hundreds of tools
that would cost in the thousands.  Presently I have a 10" delta table
saw, a drill press, sears router, and circle saw, plus loads of hand tools.
What I'm asking for is a priority list as far as what I need next in 
power tools, a shaper, a band saw, a planer, etc and which is most important
and most usefull.

Thanks Dennis


--

  
###############################################################################
###NEVER - NEVERMORE###########################################################
###############################################################################
####################################What are the contents of the oblong box?##
###############################################################################
  The usual disclaimer of self and employer applies to all above comments.
#
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU