HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: v129qp43@ubvmsd.cc.buffalo.edu (Hugh Jarvis - Anthropology Dept.)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: heater core bursts lead to deaths..news at ten
Date: 6 Apr 92 22:48:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

Anyone verify this?  My mechanic friend told me he just
watched a tv program (consumer report show?) the other
night and they spoke about plastic heater cores, used by
VW, Audia, and others, which had ruptured, dumping
boiling antifreeze on drivers' laps, leading to a large
number of accidents in the last year (200??) and around
eight deaths!!?!  If this is so, then VW is sitting on a
real landmine and this friendly, informal goodwill core
replacement deal is possibly helping them hold down a
class action suit....  My core split and dumped when I
was not in the car, fortunately.  As my car is over ten
years old and over 150K, I wasn't too worried about 
a reimbursement, but after this bit of news, who knows...?
All info welcomed!    Hugh Jarvis C129QP43@UBVM
From: st883787@pip.cc.brandeis.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: 1992 GTI 16v
Date: 16 Apr 92 02:58:24 GMT
Reply-To: st883787@pip.cc.brandeis.edu
Organization: Brandeis University

As I'm selling my car and going to be getting some $$ for graduation, I'd
like to get a 16v GTI.  I've been following the discussion in rec.autos, and
it seems that there are quite a few disgruntled owners out there.  I need 
this car to be very reliable, I can't be running to the dealer getting all 
sorts of things replaced, is the GTI going to be like that?  Also, what's
the deal with the '93 models?  Major changes, like worth waiting and paying
more for, or should I take advantage of the model change by cashing in on a
cheap rate on the '92's?  How are the GTI's in snow?  I'll be working in 
Vail,CO next year, so there will be lots of snow.  Any and all opinions
are appreciated.
					Josh
From: vol@northbeach.Corp.Sun.COM (Volney Spalding)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: My God! My cylinders just went on strike!
Date: 7 Apr 92 17:13:20 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Mt. View, Ca.
NNTP-Posting-Host: northbeach.corp.sun.com

In article <6APR199200130665@rigel.tamu.edu> mst4298@rigel.tamu.edu (Mitchell S Todd) writes:
>
>	Let me start with some history:
>
>	About the end of last October, my '84 GTI (103k) began to run
>	bizzarely. On a cold morning (well, as cold as mornings get
>	in this part of Texas) it would run as if it were only firing on
>	three cylinders, at least until the engine warmed up. Then the
>	motor would abruptly start to run normally.

Other stuff deleted....

I would check the cold start circuitry in the fuel injection.
My 84 GTI exhibited similar behavior, but instead of seeming to run
on only 3 cylinders it run run with a rolling cadence that was as if
if was on only three.  It smoothed out after warm-up.

There is a warm up valve with a bi-metalic spring which keeps a rich
mixture until the car is warm.  I would check this.

Vol


                       	


--
	++++++++	++++++++	++++++++	++++++++
Volney Spalding			  "And the next question's for you Karl
vol@northbeach.Corp.Sun.COM	   Marx:  A struggle of class against class
Sun Microsystems 		   is a *what* struggle, a *what* struggle?"
From: mjh@cs.utexas.edu (Michael J. Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: oil sludge in AIR-COOLED vehicles
Date: 16 Apr 1992 14:38:20 -0500
Organization: U Texas Dept of Computer Sciences, Austin TX
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu

There is an oil breather tube (also used for recycling oil fumes down
into the carb) that connects from the air cleaner to the oil intake.
I believe the moisture gets in from the air cleaner intake from the
air itself and some is carried through the tube to the oil filler
to mix with the oil at the top of the tube.  I've used Quaker State
in my '64 and have gotten this foam.  I don't think it's from a cracked
head or anything that serious....

Hey, this is a good question for Click and Clack on Car Talk,  wad ya think?
From: lito@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Angelito Lucena)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: ventilation control
Date: 9 Apr 92 14:48:22 GMT
Reply-To: lito@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Angelito Lucena)
Distribution: usa
Organization: David Taylor Research Center, Carderock

In rec.autos.vw, lito@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Angelito Lucena) writes:
>hi,
>
>my ventilation control in my 88 gli has developed an interesting fault.
>when i put the top level to the full right position, the fan and a/c
>no longer turn off.  i've check the fuse for this circuit (fuse #14) and it
>looks okay.  i've pulled the faceplate of the ventilation controls off and the
>control levers are going to the full right position and the levers are not
>being obstructed by any of the wires from my stereo.  i don't have the wiring
>diagram for my car.  could this fault be in the fan speed control or a relay?
>how do i check this??
>
oops, i made a mistake.  all references to far right should read 'far left'
sorry,

and i'm still looking for any advice,

thanks in advance,
and email directly to:
lito lucena
lito@oasys.dt.navy.mil
 now at  :  dtmb, cdhq, nwsc          'if the defaults weren't good enough,
 formerly: dtrc, carderock                  they wouldn't be defaults.....'
							bill's sister
Xref: sparky rec.autos.vw:2268 rec.autos.tech:5601
From: burden_d@oass.enet.dec.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw,rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Diesel questions
Keywords: Injectors
Date: 8 Apr 92 20:19:55 GMT
Reply-To: burden_d@oass.enet.dec.com ()
Followup-To: rec.autos.vw
Distribution: na
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation


If they removed the lines and removed the timing belt, make sure they
didn't loosen or move the injector pump.  That can cause the symptoms
you are seeing as well.

If they installed the timing belt a tooth off one direction or the other,
the car would barely run.

--
Dave Burden                                      ______--------___
Digital Equip Corp - Alpharetta, GA             /|             / |
                                     o___________|_\__________/__|
burden_d@oass.enet.dec.com          ]|___     |   |=  ||  =|___  |"
                                    //   \\   |   |___||_///   \\|"
                                    |  X  |\-------------/|  X  |\"
                                     \___/                 \___/
From: gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca (Andy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Screeching in the rain (was: Where VW's Come From)
Date: 10 Apr 92 19:34:37 GMT
Distribution: dal
Organization: Math, Stats & CS, Dalhousie University, Halifax, NS, Canada

In <9APR199216251885@zeus.tamu.edu> jmm2948@zeus.tamu.edu (Jeffrey M. Mayzurk) writes:

>In article <1992Apr09.113851.12203@wes.on.ca>, tomh@wes.on.ca (Tom Haapanen) writes...
>>kerry@is-next.umd.edu (Kerry Ogata) writes:

>>> 1.  When it rains, the battery light comes on and the (fan?) belt screeches.
>>> I think this is from water getting up into the car.  It can be quite
>>> annoying, especially when it's raining hard.
>> 
>>This is not an assembly problem, but a design fault.  Something was changed
>>in the A2 Golf/Jetta engine compartment design around 1990, and the newer
>>cars get a lot of water splashing up into the engine compartment in heavy rain.
>>This causes the alternator belt to slip, and the warning light to come on 
>>momentarily.  The car also gives a little jerk when the belt grabs once again.

>No significant changes were made in the engine compartment to cause this 
>problem -- nearly all water-cooled VW's have done this as long as I can
>remember, including my Scirocco.  When you drive through a puddle with 
>the right-side tire, water splashes up onto the pulleys and belts, causing
>them to slip momentarily.  It's not really a big deal, and it doesn't cause
>any permanent damage, but it can be annoying during heavy rains.  Most newer
>cars have fairings underneath the engine compartment (for the sake of
>aerodynamics), but for some reason VW's engineers have chosen to avoid 
>this.  

>By all means, have the splash guard installed.  It will correct the belt
>slippage, but it won't keep your engine compartment any cleaner.

>--
>Jeffrey M. Mayzurk

>jmm2948@zeus.tamu.edu

When my alternator or the belt pullys squeek, I spray WD40 in the 3 wheels
that the belt sits on. On the inside and outside. Be careful not to get any
on the actual wheel where the belt grabs, or the belt will slip. This stops
the squeeking for about 2 months.

ANdy
-- 
---....-------------****----*******-) GTI FUN-atic                      o  
--. \/ .-----GTI---******--*********)         Don't forget to bike:     ,-\
--.\/\/.-----------******--*********)  (and sail and windsurf and ski)  0\-0
---....-------------****----*******-) gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca,goaway@ac.dal.ca
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: aeporro@mars.lerc.nasa.gov (Bob Porro)
Subject: Re: Experience purchasing 1992 VW GTI 16v (long)
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
Distribution: usa
Date:  8 Apr 1992 08:12 EDT  

In article <2654@dove.nist.gov>, keys@csrc.ncsl.nist.gov (Larry Keys) writes...
>In article <31170010@hpspkla.spk.hp.com> borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski) writes:
>>
>>What you need is a GOOD oil filter wrench.  The kind to buy is the one
>                    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
> 
>Even a GOOD oil filter wrench wouldn't work.  When my car was new 1990 Jetta
>GLI i had the same problem.  Its a long story that i won't tell, but after
>trying three different filter wrenches the last on that i tried was an open
>ended "C" type that put a hole in the filter that i didn't find out about until
>i started driving.  This was New Years Day 1991.  Anyway the day after being
>towed to a dealer they needed to use "Channel Lock Pliers" to remove the filter
>and "no i wasn't turning it the wrong direction".  The service guy said that
>it was over tightend at the factory.  Not an isolated case.  Fortunately, my
>car didn't suffer any engine damage.
> 
> 

I had the same problem when I replaced the oil filter for the very first time
on my '84 Rabbit GTI.  I remember at the time I thought that the factory hired
Magilla the Gorilla to install the oil filters.  A standard ring type oil filter
wrench wouldn't work, so I had to resort to the crude screwdriver-through-the-
filter trick to remove the filter.  Now that I am older and wiser, I wouldn't 
recommend this technique on a new car.  BTW - Since then I have replaced many 
oil filters on this car myself (hand tighten only) and have had no problems 
removing the oil filters.

******************************************************************************
| Bob Porro                    || (The opinions expressed here are not       |
| aeporro@venus.lerc.nasa.gov  ||  necessarily those of the management ?\*!) |
|                              ||                                            |
******************************************************************************
From: jhamill@bbn.com (John Hamill)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Scirocco front end rattle
Date: 7 Apr 1992 20:12:56 GMT
Organization: Bolt Beranek and Newman Inc., Cambridge MA
Reply-To: jhamill@spcink.bbn.com (John Hamill)
NNTP-Posting-Host: bbn.com

In article <1992Apr7.190154.7175@morrow.stanford.edu> HF.SXM@forsythe.stanford.edu (Sara MacGilvra) writes:
>I am in need of some net.wisdom.
>I have a '84 Scirocco.  There is a rattling sound coming from the
>front end. I started hearing it only when driving on uneven
>pavement. However now it does it more, even on fairly smooth
>surfaces.   When I brake it goes away.  When
>in reverse sometimes there is a click, click, click.

	What you have here it sounds like is a classic case
of broken or missing brake pad clips. This is an annoynace,
but easy to fix. After time the tension goes away on the clips
and they fall out or break, or sometimes garages don't bother
to replace them after a brake job. They don't afFect safety
or anything, they just keep the brake pads from rattling 
around making your front end sound like it's falling off.
Go to a dealer, buy four of them, and replace them. .5
hour job.
	The rattling got worse because when one falls off,
the other soon follows.

jh
From: andrew@airs.com (Andrew Evans)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: My God! My cylinders just went on strike!
Date: 6 Apr 92 21:48:27 GMT

You need to do some work to isolate what the problem is.  First, while
the car is running (and missing), pull each spark plug lead off its
plug, one at a time, listening for a change in the running of the
engine.  If you pull a lead off a plug and the running doesn't change,
that's your dead cylinder.

Assuming you've pegged the cylinder, get a spare spark plug and put it
on that cylinder's wire.  Ground the electrode of the plug and start
the car, and look for a spark from the tip to the electrode.  If
that's not happening, either you haven't got the plug grounded or you
have an ignition problem on that cylinder.

If that checks out ok, pull the plug on the dead cylinder and hook up
a compression tester.  Crank the engine over and see what you get.
Compare the figure to what you are supposed to see (specs in the
Bentley manual).  Test the other cylinders to see how they compare -
if the bad cylinder is much lower than the others, your bent valve
theory might be correct.
From: msirota@ee.rochester.edu (Mark Sirota)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Heater Core - What is it?
Date: 6 Apr 92 17:37:53 GMT
Reply-To: Mark Sirota <msirota@socrates.ee.rochester.edu>
Distribution: na
Organization: University of Rochester Department of Electrical Engineering

In article <1992Apr4.210927.9183@cs.dal.ca> gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca (Andy) writes:
> 1) What exactly does the heater core do?

It's like a radiator.  Hot coolant flows through it, and air passes over
it.  The warm air is then distributed through the passenger compartment.

> 2) Where is it located?

Underneath/behind the dash.

> 3) How do you tell if its bad?

There's a sort of sweet smell, and the window keeps fogging up, and won't
defog.

> 4) Is an '85 GTI affected by it?

Yep.

> 5) How can people have accidents because of it.

This I'm not sure, unless people let it go so long that they just can't see
out their window or something.  In that case, I think it's a severe case of
negligence.  They should know that they can't see!
-- 
Mark Sirota - Department of Electrical Engineering Systems Staff
University of Rochester, Rochester NY
 Internet: msirota@ee.rochester.edu
 UUCP:     rutgers!rochester!ur-valhalla!msirota
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: awelker@watarts.UWaterloo.ca (a welker)
Subject: Audi heater core
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 14:25:48 GMT

I still have not recieved an answer about Audi heater cores. It seems
to
me that Audi and VW use alot of the same parts and Audi's probably
use the same heater cores as VW. Therefore, can anyone tell me if
VW or Audi are replacing Audi heater cores? I would really like to
know. Who would I call if they are?
BTW, I have a 1984 Audi 5000S with 123,000 KM and I live in Canada
if that makes any difference.
Thanks!

Andrew Welker
From: randy%rdr.com@uu.psi.com (Randy Tidd)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Experience purchasing 1992 VW GTI 16v (long)
Date: 7 Apr 92 14:04:29 GMT
Reply-To: randy%rdr.com@uu.psi.com (Randy Tidd)
Organization: RDR, Inc.

In article <31170010@hpspkla.spk.hp.com> borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don  
T. Borowski) writes:
> What you need is a GOOD oil filter wrench.

ERRGH.  I've heard this so many times I'm going to POST my reply.

I had one oil filter wrench.  It was the kind with a handle and a strap  
that wraps around the filter.  It wouldn't fit in the tight space where  
the filter was.  I had a second oil filter wrench.  This was just the  
strap part, with a socket driver hole instead of a handle.  This fit fine,  
but when I turned it *real hard*, the filter didn't move but I bent the  
crap out of the wrench, and stripped out the socket driver hole.

"Fine," you say.  "You probably didn't have a GOOD oil filter wrench."

Well I went down to Track Auto (I know, not known for their quality tools)  
and found a different kind of wrench.  It's a steel cap that goes over the  
end of the filter, and has two moving parts that slide together the harder  
you turn it.  It worked *great*.  There was plenty of room, and I could  
maneuver it to get a good angle.  And it wouldn't slip because of the  
pinching effect.  I turned it *real hard*, and the mounting block that the  
filter was attached to started turning, but *not* the oil filter.  Not  
wanting to de-torque some piece of the engine, I took it to the dealer to  
get the filter changed.

All I can figure is some guy on the assembly line went nuts with his  
pneumatic wrench when he put the filter on.  And I've heard similar  
stories from other people (trouble getting their first filter off).

I don't mean to sound disrespectful; thanks to everyone for all the  
replies!  I got a lot of great info from other VW enthusiasts.

Randy Tidd
randy@rdr.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: greis@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Gayla Ann Greis)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: I've got that nasty white oil stuff too!
Date: 10 Apr 92 18:43:31 GMT
Article-I.D.: uwm.1992Apr10.184331.7122
Organization: Computing Services Division, University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee

In article <1992Apr9.130703.23289@usenet.ins.cwru.edu> wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy) writes:
>
>Andy says in his post "What the $#&! is with the oil??" -
>
>>1) What the &%$# is that stuff? Any specific type of sludge?
>
>And I've gotta say that this is SOME coincidence!  I was going to
>post a similar question this morning myself.  As I dismantled my

Uh, I believe that this is Parafin Wax... The oil you are using is a
parafin based wax... If someone else covered this, forgive me, I'm not
following this thread, so either mail, or change the subject as this is
now in a "K" file.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang)
Subject: Re: Experience purchasing 1992 VW GTI 16v (long)
Organization: Brandeis University
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1992 15:00:42 GMT

In article <2654@dove.nist.gov> keys@csrc.ncsl.nist.gov (Larry Keys) writes:
>In article <31170010@hpspkla.spk.hp.com> borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski) writes:
>>>In rec.autos.vw, randy%rdr.com@uu.psi.com (Randy Tidd) writes:
>>
>>                       [Stuff deleted]
>>
>>>2) How the hell do I change the oil filter on a GTI without jacking up the  
>>>front end and giving myself a hernia?
>
>>
>>What you need is a GOOD oil filter wrench.  The kind to buy is the one
>                    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>
>Even a GOOD oil filter wrench wouldn't work.  When my car was new 1990 Jetta

I think that on my first oil change, I resorted to banging my trusty
"if-you-break-it,-we-replace-it" craftsman screwdriver through the
filter and then taking it off.  Yes the factory puts them on quite
tight.

After that I put them on myself and can usually get them off by hand
after putting several thick rubber bands around it.  I use thick bands
used to bundle bunches of broccoli.

I also use a very simple and effective homemade wrench based on the
spiral wrench principle.  I take a length (roughly 12") of timing
belt, make a loop and nail it perpendicular to an 8"  1x1.  By placing the
filter within the loop and twisting the 1x1, you can get tremendous
grip on the filter.

By the way, the ends of the timing belt should point in the same
direction, rather than towards each other.
From: v129qp43@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (Hugh Jarvis - Anthropology Dept.)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: JC Whitney
Keywords: no trouble here
Date: 16 Apr 92 04:06:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

I have had at least four hundred dollars worth of parts,
tools, and materials from JC Whitney to date, with no
problems whatsoever.  The list includes a crank, a water
pump, a master cylinder, seat covers, a variety of tools,
and the like.  I think the appropriate comment is
caveat emptor.  
                       Hugh Jarvis
                       C129QP43@UBVM
From: "tom neumann" <tom.neumann@canrem.com>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: where vw's are made
Date: 14 Apr 92 22:48:39 EST
Reply-To: "tom neumann" <tom.neumann@canrem.com>
Distribution: rec
Organization: Canada Remote Systems


in: Message-ID: <31170014@hpspkla.spk.hp.com>
    borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski) writes:

>My Golf was made in Pennsylvania.  The VIN # starts with a "1".  I was told all VW's made
>in Penn. have VW's starting 1VW... and all made in Germany have WVW.....
>What do the ones made in Brazil start with?

DT>VW's are no longer made in the USA.  I think they shut down the plant in
DT>1985 or so.

DT>Cars build in Brasil have a VIN starting with "B".

Cars from Brazil have V.I.N's starting with 9's.

1 = USA
3 = Mexico
9 = Brazil
W = Germany

Tom Neumann
---
  DeLuxe 1.21 #350  I sell Volkswagens.
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario/Detroit, MI
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
From: jimk@wpi.WPI.EDU (James Matthew Kokernak)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Seatbelt Light
Date: 6 Apr 92 16:44:24 GMT
Article-I.D.: wpi.1992Apr6.164424.25752
Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute



Hello,

I just recently bought an '87 Jetta GL, with passive restraints. These
shoulder belts disconnect at the doors, but the car will not start
with them disconnected...this is a safety feature. My question is:
sometimes when I am driving, the seatbelt light goes on. If I wiggle 
the connection at the door, the light will go out. I've never had
the car not start because of a poor connection in this module, so my
only problem is that it is annoying to see this light go on when I'm
driving at night. I could just take the bulb out, but I would rather 
look for a better solution.

Thanks in advance for any help,

--Jim
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: ni@hal.com (Minister of Silly Walks)
Subject: oil sludge in AIR-COOLED vehicles
Organization: HaL Computer Systems
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1992 16:59:40 GMT


Plenty of people have given suggestions as to what the yellowish
sludge found under oil caps is in a water-cooled engine, but
what about in an air cooled engine?  is it just water condensate
(is there that much water in the air, and where does it condense
into such that it gets into the oil), or is it some sort of
froth that the oil gets beat into?  is it related to the type
of oil that you use?

For that matter, is there any wisdom to some oils being better than
others for use in an air-cooled engine (I have a '77 2.0 in a bus)?
One I've heard is to absolutely stay away from Castrol, and then
the other "wisdom" that I've heard is that Castrol is the best...
I guess you get what you pay for.
-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
	"We have high-calibre management here, as in .44 and .45"
		-- Andrew Heller, Mr. HaL Himself
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: ac579@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (G.C.J. Timm)
Subject: Re: OPINIONS WANTED ON 1992 VW GOLF
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio, (USA)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 92 15:34:24 GMT


Check with your insurance company before you buy!

The Current Golf has tin foil bumpers and a poor record of
thefts (Alleviated somewhat by the addition of w3
IkZxljF
portection plates in the doors!

Check before you buy!

Jeff
Xref: sparky rec.autos.vw:2341 rec.autos.tech:5721 rec.autos:11169