HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Plastic Spinners in Cold Weather
From: SRINGROS@bcsc02.gov.bc.ca
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 93 08:07:58 PST
Organization: BC Systems Corporation

>8. Do not run a plastic spinner at temperatures below +36 F or below +1 C.
>
I hate to have to admit it, but it has snowed, and I have been flying off
ski's for the past couple of weeks.  The first time out, (also the coldest,
it was about -4 Cel.) the engine coughed,spit and backed the APC prop off,
which popped the spinner (Goldberg) off. I broke one side out and knocked
two of the pins off, we were amazed as we had always thought that spinners
were just about indestructable.
 
Scott Ringrose
Printing and Presentation Services
B C  Sytems Corporation, (604)389-3729 BCSC01(MVS)=SC32169
BCSC02(VM)=SRINGROS INTERNET=SRINGROS@BCSC02.gov.bc.ca
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: hutto@SMTC.engr.scarolina.edu (Brent Hutto)
Subject: Re: Micro servos and Tower Hobbies address...
Reply-To: hutto@smtc.engr.scarolina.edu
Organization: NIST Southeast Manufacturing Technology Center
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 93 14:44:10 GMT

In article <C0B6A1.717@cantua.canterbury.ac.nz>, kaiser@elec.canterbury.ac.nz (Chris Kaiser) writes:
>
>I'm currently building a model that requires a micro servo in each
>V-tail surface. The smallest available here is the Futaba 143 (same
>as the 133 I think) which is about 13mm thick. However this is a bit
>too thick, so could anyone tell me if there are any smaller servos
>out there. I think Airtronics make a small one, I've also heard of
>one called the "Union 12gm", and also a super micro Kyosho one.
>Does anyone have any info on these servos?

    The servo that Airtronics would recommend for that application is
    their "94141 Precision High Torque Ball Bearing Micro Servo" which
    is 36mm Long, 15mm Wide, 32.5mm High and has metal gears, a very
    small "dead-band" and a torque rating of 3.2 kg/cm. If that servo
    is too thick for you, they also offer the "94501 Microlite Servo" 
    which is 27mm Long, 12.5mm Wide, 27mm High and is specified at 
    2.0 kg/cm torque. The 94501 uses non-standard splines, so be sure
    to order an extra set of arms, etc to go with it. The 94501 is the
    smallest servo in my 1992 Airtronics catalog, it weighs 16 grams.
    The 94141 is also fairly light at 33 grams, FWIW.

    Hope this helps.

-------------------------------
Brent Hutto
hutto@SMTC.engr.scarolina.edu
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: eeak@teal.csn.org (Ed Krejcik)
Subject: Building Board
Organization: Colorado SuperNet, Inc.
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 16:58:52 GMT

Here's a new thread that should start some lively conversation...

What do you all use for a building board?  I'm going on 
building my third plane now and I'm planning on putting
together a more robust build board.  Any ideas?
-- 
*** Ed Krejcik                  +--------------------------------------+  *** 
*** Precision Visuals, Inc.     | "Don`t be outraged, be outrageous!!" |  *** 
*** Boulder, CO                 +--------------------------------------+  ***
*** 303/530-9000      Email to: eeak@pvi.com          Disclaimer: mine... ***
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: patch@sequent.com (Pat Chewning)
Subject: Re: Coreless Servos on Y harness
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems, Inc.
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 93 15:51:09 GMT

In article <16B4D7795.D2KAK@VM1.CC.UAKRON.EDU> D2KAK@VM1.CC.UAKRON.EDU writes:
>In one of my planes it is necessary to use two Futaba coreless servos
>on a "Y" harness. The problem is that when the servos are connected
>and the radio turned on, the servos chatter like they're trying to
>find center all the time. 

>The radios are 7UAP 1024 PCMs.  ANY ADVISE, COMMENTS,
>SOLUTIONS?  I am considering buying a JR 10 Channel PCM. Do they have the
>same problem?     THANKS GROUP!!!!!
>

The "Y" harness might be acting like an antenna and causing interference
with the receiver.  I have had this problem and fixed it by running the base
of the "Y" cable through a ferite bead (one turn) to choke off the RF. This
worked with an airtronics receiver.  When I install servos in the wings of
my gliders I go ahead and put the ferrite bead in every installation and
have not had any problems since.

If your Futaba has a DSC cable (connects transmitter to receiver, for
running servos without the RF deck installed, neat feature found on JR X347
and other radios), then use it to determine if it is radio interference or
some other problem.  I am not familiar with coreless servos, and why they
may be more susceptible to noise.  Have you tried connecting any other
servos to this "Y" cable and see if the problem goes away?
From: jmoonan@ccv1.bbn.com (John Moonan)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Coreless Servos on Y harness
Date: 11 Jan 93 23:52:29 GMT
Organization: BBN Communications, Cambridge, MA
NNTP-Posting-Host: ccv1.bbn.com
To: D2KAK@VM1.CC.UAKRON.EDU
In-reply-to: D2KAK@VM1.CC.UAKRON.EDU's message of Tue, 5 Jan 1993 13:30:13 GMT


Noise/jitter at servos where a lot of lead length is involved is not that 
uncommon.  In your case the Y harness is equivalent to having twice as much
lead length.  The coreless servos are probably more sensitive to this in that
they are designed for rapid response to control inputs.  There are a number
of solutions that have been suggested but one that I haven't seen is a
device sold by Ace Radio specifically for this problem.  I believe its called
tha glitch stopper or something like that.  You can contact Ace at (800) 322-
7121.  The device is designed to go in the lead between your receiver and the
servo.

					THANX, John Moonan
					SYSOP, 495th R/C Squadron
					Groton, MA
From: gregt@col.hp.com (Greg Tarcza)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: First plane (sailplane) advice?
Date: 8 Jan 1993 21:35:19 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: hpcsrc9.col.hp.com

sbixby@cup.portal.com (Steven W Bixby) writes:
>I'd like to solicit comments on:
>Dynaflite Butterfly
> 
> Dynaflite kits are a little on the poor side, imho. 

  I'll second that.  My son built a Dynaflite Apogee (100")and it has its 
share of design oddities that I don't like, especially the way wings are
mounted and aligned...  but it flies OK and thermals well.

>Airtronics Olympic II
>SIG Riser 100

  Both of these planes are good planes from what I have seen. There have 
been a couple of Riser 100's and many Oly's show up at our club field and
the owners seem to like them.  With an experienced pilot, either one can
"clean up" at our thermal contests.

  Another kit that I am close to is the Spirit 100.  I don't have enough
experience with it yet to tell you whether it would be a good first plane
(in regards to construction and how much abuse it can take), but it seems
to fly quite well and floats forever in light lift.  Our club purchased 
15 of these birds as sort of a group project a year ago and about half have
been built.  A couple have been crunched due to pilot errors and construction 
flaws.  The experienced pilots always seem to build kits with their own
set of modifications, so I'm not really sure how a totally stock kit will
do.
							Greg T.

===============================================================================
Greg Tarcza      WA2OOD                                               /
Hewlett-Packard Company                   Pikes                      /
P.O. Box 2197                               Peak                    /-,  /-,
Colorado Springs, CO  80901                   Soaring              /  / /  /
719-590-2471                                    Society           /  / /--/
                                                                      /
gregt@col.hp.com                                                     /
===============================================================================

Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: djones@iex.iex.com
Subject: Re: Building Board
Organization: IEX Corporation Inc.
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 18:39:03 GMT

In article <C0Htu5.Dp2@csn.org> eeak@teal.csn.org (Ed Krejcik) writes:
>Here's a new thread that should start some lively conversation...
>
>What do you all use for a building board?  I'm going on 
>building my third plane now and I'm planning on putting
>together a more robust build board.  Any ideas?

A hollow core door is a pretty good choice if you have space
for it. Cover with ceiling tiles or Homosote (sp?).

For my board I built a frame of 1x3 poplar to which I attached
a piece of 5/8" particle board. Over this I use a ceiling tile. Gives
me a 2'x 4' area in which to work. Very flat. And was pretty cheap
to put together.

I have also heard that glass make a good board.

Doug
------------------------------------------------------------------
'I am a traveler of                |    Douglas R. Jones
     both Time and Space'          |    IEX Corporation
       Led Zeppelin                |    (214)612-2600 ext: 325
                                   |    djones@iex.iex.com
                                   |    uunet!iex!djones
-------------------------------------------------------------------

Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: amg@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (alan.m.gopin)
Subject: Re: R/C Monster Trucks!
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 13:24:25 GMT

From article <72864@cup.portal.com>, by sbixby@cup.portal.com (Steven W Bixby):
> I good friend of mine and I were talking around the idea of both
> of us acquiring R/C monster trucks; namely, Tamiya "Clodbuster" or
> Kyosho "USA-1".
> 
> My friend hasn't had experience with either of them, just a not-too-close
> inspection of the kits - and he suggested that the Clodbuster has
> better quality.
> 
> Anyone out there with experience with one or both of these kits have
> any comments?  I'm interested in comments on kit quality, performance
> differences and any other sordid tales... :-)
> 
> Whaddya think????
> 
>   -swb- (Steve Bixby, sbixby@cup.portal.com)

The Clodbuster certainly appears to have more aftermarket
support. Any issue of Tower Talk or R/C Car Action will have
several ads for Clod upgrades.

The real question you have to ask yourself before you buy a truck
is "What do I want to do with it?" 
If the answer is run it around the back yard/street, you should do
fine with either truck. If the answer is to go truck pulling or do
car crushing style monster truck races, you are probably better
off with the Clod. This is because you will invariably want to
upgrade the basic kit to improve the performance and there appear
to be more ways to do this with the Clod. If the answer is to go
off-road racing, what you really want is either a Losi LX-T or an
Associated RC-10T. Either one of those trucks makes an excellent
racing vehicle.

				Alan Gopin
				gopin@ttauri.att.com
				
-- 
Alan M. Gopin
AT&T Bell Laboratories
gopin@homxb.ATT.COM
att!homxb!gopin
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: bencze@isl.stanford.edu (William J. Bencze)
Subject: Re: out of control
Organization: Stanford University
	<BENCZE.93Jan6094228@isl.stanford.edu> <=t#@byu.edu>
Date: 7 Jan 93 11:01:46


>> On Thu,  7 Jan 93 11:26:47 MST, mark@baloo.ee.byu.edu (Mark Larsen) said:
> Nntp-Posting-Host: baloo.ee.byu.edu

>     > bencze@isl.stanford.edu (William J. Bencze) writes:
>     >  I use a 3/32" phono plug and jack like those found on small
>     >	transistor radios...

> This seems like a great idea.  One thing that one has to be careful
> with when using non-stock switches (like those from Radio Shack) is
> that many are not built to handle the vibrations you get with a model
> plane. ...

> Mark Larsen

This is an excellent point!  I currently only fly gliders, so
vibration has never been a problem, except for the occasional
wing flutter :-).  Thanks for pointing this out.

-Bill

--
 Bill Bencze                               bencze@isl.stanford.edu




From: chrisd@hpindda.cup.hp.com (Chris Douglas)
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 18:53:05 GMT
Subject: SCALE RIVITS????
Organization: HP Information Networks, Cupertino, CA
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc


For scale modeling, how do you simulate rivits?  Specifically, I plan
on doing some WWII fighter.  I don't want "stand off" scale rivits.
I'm more intrested in something that really looks like rivits.

Thanks,
Chris Douglas
chrisd@hpinpcb.cup.hp.com

From: earl@trsvax.tandy.com
Date: 07 Jan 93 13:56 CST
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Dynaflite Skeeter and other HLG
Message-ID: <1195667334@trsvax>
From: mckiou@cbnewse.cb.att.com (kevin.w.mckiou)
Subject: Re: Rocket powered R/C (Estes Astro Blaster)  
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 19:33:40 GMT

In article <1993Jan8.174318.21042@adp.uucp> KEVINC@haven.adp.wisc.edu writes:
>I thought you need a special license to use rocket engines of this size (past 
>"D").  Does anyone know if this is true?
>
>- kev -

The motors to which I refered (F and G impulse) are classified as *model* 
rocket motors.  

They are generally available in most all states.  There are exceptions where 
the state fire marshall has some concern (Calif recently) or where (I think) 
there are laws limiting the total impulse (Mass.).  

I am unaware of any limitation
in Wis on use of *model* rocket motors.  I think the Consumer Product Safety
Comm recently came down with a ruling that G impulse motors must only be
sold to people 18 yrs of age or older.

Above G impulse you can still obtain the motors by joining the National
Assoc of Rocketry or Tripoli and passing some certification tests. These
orgs will then notify manufacturers of your successful certification and
you will be able to purchase motors by "mail" or in person at certain
events.

Hope that helps.  *Much* more information can be had (if you're interested)
by posting a question to rec.models.rockets.

Kevin
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: out of control
From: kaiser@elec.canterbury.ac.nz (Chris Kaiser)
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 22:05:56 GMT
Organization: Electrical Engineering, University of Canterbury, New Zealand

In article <=t#@byu.edu>, mark@baloo.ee.byu.edu (Mark Larsen) writes:
>      > bencze@isl.stanford.edu (William J. Bencze) writes:
>      >  I use a 3/32" phono plug and jack like those found on small
>      >	transistor radios...
> 
> This seems like a great idea.  One thing that one has to be careful
> with when using non-stock switches (like those from Radio Shack) is
> that many are not built to handle the vibrations you get with a model
> plane.  Weird things can happen if the switch contacts start vibrating
> open and closed at a high rate during flight.  This may be not be a
> problem with phono jacks, but I think I would probably be pretty
> careful trying this...

That's a very good point. I first heard of this method about 8 years
ago when hand launched RC gliders were becoming popular - the phono
jack is lighter than the standard switch. I haven't heard of it being
used on power models. A point to watch is that with the plug removed
the jack is an open hole - great for getting gunge into the contacts!

Chris Kaiser

Postgrad, Elec. Eng. Dept.
University of Canterbury
Christchurch, NEW ZEALAND




Xref: sparky rec.models.rc:5311 alt.religion.kibology:5649
From: sorgatz@avatar.tti.com (sorgatz)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc,alt.religion.kibology
Subject: Re: KiboKrap here...AHRG!
Date: 5 Jan 93 18:52:50 GMT
Organization: net.police.gov

In article <C0Ayy4.IF9@world.std.com> kibo@world.std.com (James "Kibo" Parry) writes:
>
>Kibo's own glow engines use a special silencer which convert the sound
>into a radio-frequency broadcast which is emitted at exactly the
>frequency--and air time--of the Fox sitcom "Married With Children."
>
>JTYWLTK.
>					-- Kibo

 Mr Parry, would you kindly stop posting your nonsense in groups like 
rec.models.rc? You already have an entire sub-species hierarchy devoted
completly to your 'kibology' garbage...isn't that a significant enough 
waste of bandwidth? Twit..



-Avatar-> (aka: Erik K. Sorgatz) KB6LUY           +-------------------------+
TTI(sorgatz@soldev.tti.com)                       *   Think Eco, not EGO!   *
3100 Ocean Park Blvd. Santa Monica, CA  90405     +-------------------------+
(OPINIONS EXPRESSED DO NOT REFLECT THE VIEWS OF CITICORP OR ITS MANAGEMENT!)
From: patch@sequent.com (Pat Chewning)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: What is a ferite bead?
Date: 7 Jan 93 01:08:50 GMT
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems, Inc.

In article <1993Jan6.205946.10039@aio.jsc.nasa.gov> careyb@dallas.jsc.nasa.gov (Brian Carey 283-4181) writes:
>
>What is a ferite bead? The one talked about below.
>
>The "Y" harness might be acting like an antenna and causing interference
>with the receiver.  I have had this problem and fixed it by running the base
>of the "Y" cable through a ferite bead (one turn) to choke off the RF. This
>worked with an airtronics receiver.  When I install servos in the wings of
>my gliders I go ahead and put the ferrite bead in every installation and
>have not had any problems since.

A ferite bead is a donut shaped bead made from ferite.  Ferite is a compound
of iron and carbon (FeC3 I think).  When wires are wound around the ferite
bead (through the center, around outside, and back through center), the bead
increases the inductance of the wire and is used to supress higher
frequencies on the wire.  In this example the ferite bead is being used as
an RF choke to reduce the RF noise generated and received on the servo
leads.

I obtained my ferite beads at Norvak Electronics, a local electronic parts
store.  They might be available from Radio Shack and other electronic part
stores.
From: bloom@inland.com
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Coreless Servos on Y harness
Date: 7 Jan 93 08:11:51 CST
Organization: Inland Steel Company; East Chicago, IN

In article <16B4D7795.D2KAK@VM1.CC.UAKRON.EDU>, D2KAK@VM1.CC.UAKRON.EDU writes:
> In one of my planes it is necessary to use two Futaba coreless servos
> on a "Y" harness. The problem is that when the servos are connected
> and the radio turned on, the servos chatter like they're trying to
> find center all the time. I have tried caps across the power leads,
> a stutter stoper (2 parts of a hex inverter on the signal line),
> and a seperate battery pack for the servos. NO LUCK. I called those
> wonderful folks at Futaba and after being on hold for about 45 minutes
> they said that if the servos chatter on a Y harness don't use the servos
> on a Y harness. And they pay those guys for this stuff! I have also
> experienced the same problem on two different receivers, so the receiver
> isn't the problem. The radios are 7UAP 1024 PCMs.  ANY ADVISE, COMMENTS,
> SOLUTIONS?  I am considering buying a JR 10 Channel PCM. Do they have the
> same problem?     THANKS GROUP!!!!!
>  

I'm no electronic whizbang, but could it be that the voltage to the 
servos is too low?  Maybe you could use a 5 cell pack.  Can you 
avoid the Y-harness by using the electronic mixing capabilities of 
the 7UAP?  Can you use a different brand of servos on your Y-harness?
From: goo@hpindda.cup.hp.com (Michael Goo)
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 22:28:37 GMT
Subject: Re: R/C Monster Trucks!
Organization: HP Information Networks, Cupertino, CA
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc

sbixby@cup.portal.com (Steven W Bixby) writes...

>I good friend of mine and I were talking around the idea of both
>of us acquiring R/C monster trucks; namely, Tamiya "Clodbuster" or
>Kyosho "USA-1".

I haven't seen the models you refer to, but if they're anything like
the other monster truck kits (e.g. Tamiya Blackfoot [Bigfoot?]) then
my comments would be...

  - They're probably fine for running around on smooth surfaces and
    not-to-bumpy dirt surfaces.

  - The center-of-mass on the monster trucks is too high for high
    speed racing on dirt tracks with jumps/mogels.  You'll flip over
    a lot.

  - Monster trucks seem IMO to be more "closed-architecture" the
    availability of after-market add-ons may be limited.

I would suggest looking into one of the "stadium" type trucks like...

  Associated RC-10T
  Team Losi (don't know model name/number)
  Futaba ?x-1  (This is a new entry-level truck)

These perform better on uneven dirt surfaces, and are more open-architecture
and have many after-market modifications available.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Michael Goo                   |
Hewlett-Packard               | "I never try to cover my ass...
Information Networks Division |   but I certainly support your right to do so!"
19420 Homestead Road  MS 43LT |
Cupertino, CA 95014-9974      |
goo@hpisrhx.cup.hp.com        |
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: worley@a.cs.okstate.edu (WORLEY LAWRENCE JA)
Subject: Re: First Trainer Questions
Organization: Oklahoma State University
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 93 06:06:40 GMT

From article <C0CnzE.Gn1@icon.rose.hp.com>, by jahr@hprnd.rose.hp.com (Steve Jahr):
>> |A bushing motor like the OS .40 FP has much less power (about the
>> |same power as strong .25" motor) than an equivalent ball bearing motor.
> 
>> I would strongly disagree with this.  The only difference between a ball-
>> bearing motor and a sleeve bearing motor is the bearings.  Ball bearings
>> do not have significantly less drag, they just last longer and can take
>> greater stress.  But the FP is a Schnuerle ported engine, and produces
>> as much power as any other 40, excepting that you cannot safely stress
>> them with high nitro or tuned pipe.
> 
> Bzzzzzzzt! Wrong!
> 
> The manufacturers specs for the 40 FP as shown in the Tower catalog
> show the 40 FP at about 1 hp.  Now this is probably more than most
> 25's which tend to be about .8 or so.  But this is definitely *less*
> than most ball bearing schnuerle 40's, heck my OS 32 F spec's out with
> *more* power than a 40 FP.
> 
> As mentioned by another poster, the port timing is often reduced in
> budget/sport engines to reduce performance and to increase general
> tolerance to abuse.  Another item specifically changed on the 40 FP
> is the carburetor:  it has a *much* smaller throat diameter than the
> other 40 sized OS engines.  The muffler is also smaller: the 40 FP
> uses the same muffler as the 32 F which has the same bolt pattern as
> the 25 FSR (so for a tuned pipe use one for a 25?).
> 
> The 40 FP will save money in the short term... but if a newbie wants
> more power in the future (different plane, aerobatics, etc.) then
> I just don't see how it is cheaper to buy *two* engines of any type
> than to buy *one* good engine.

I started with the 40FP on a 60" wingspan trainer, and progressed with
the same engine to a Skat Kat 500 racer.  It certainly flies well enough
for *most* aerobatics, but was slightly underpowered on my trainer.
I am satisfied with it on the Skat Kat for sport use/weekend flying,
but I am well aware that any BB 40 (Fox, Nelson etc) racing engine
completely leaves the FP in the DUST.

Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib)
Subject: Re: Glue selection
Organization: Indiana University
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 05:15:56 GMT

In article <1hr2cgINN68p@hp-col.col.hp.com> gregt@col.hp.com (Greg Tarcza) writes:
>chenq@hal.COM (QiFan Chen) writes:

>> I am just wondering if wood glues used by carpenters  
>> sold in hardware shops can be used on RC planes. Can 
>> they take engine's vibrations? Are they less stronger
>> than CA or Epoxy? 

White glues are very strong, actually. They are quite a bit stronger than 
5 minute epoxies and cyanoacrylates in some cases. The drawback is that 
they take time to set and they can cause things to warp temporarily. They 
are good for balsa-balsa joints but they really come into their own for 
wood-foam joints (eg. spars in a combat foamie wing), though I wouldn't 
use it to sheet a wing. Its also quite a bit lighter than epoxy.

>    You might want to try UFO glue.  It works as well as other CAs.  I think
>there are a couple of other oderless CA glues on the market, too.

They are handy thats for sure. Too bad they cost a lot!




-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Iskandar Taib                          | The only thing worse than Peach ala
Internet: NTAIB@SILVER.UCS.INDIANA.EDU |    Frog is Frog ala Peach
Bitnet:   NTAIB@IUBACS                 !