HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: greis@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Gayla Ann Greis)
Subject: Re: Two Weird VWs---Help!
Organization: Computing Services Division, University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 13:51:22 GMT

In article <92253.141959IDJMW@ASUACAD.BITNET> <IDJMW@ASUACAD.BITNET>Jo Namio (The Hippie) writes:
>Have taken the Beetle to several mechanics and each one tells me a different
>story. Need additional opinions before I spend the $$$$$$$$!!
>When applying pressure on the brakes, the first application sends the pedal 1/2
>the way down and makes me exceedingly nervous, so I pump it quickly once and
>then apply the brakes as normal. Have had pads, etc. all checked and they
>are fine. Have had brakes bled and that didn't help. One mechanic
>says it's master cylinder replacement time. Another tells me he can
>adjust them and I'll be fine, for $15.00. (Very tempting to take the
>$15 job and run, but very safe?)

This is up in the air. Could also be dirt in the line, a master cyl that
is leaking back into itself, or an adjustment problem. Brakes are easy
enough to adjust yourself with just a screwdriver, save yourself $15 and
try that first.

>Second Beetle problem, when starting from a stop, in first gear only, unless
>clutch pedal is released very carefully, there is a shudder. Most of the time,
>if you're paying attention, it's not a problem. Sometimes, if you AREN't
>paying attention, it shudders itself out of gear. Mechanic #1 tells me that
>the "tranny mounts are loose." The shuddering is ONLY from a stop in first
>gear, so this one I doubt. Mechanic #2 tells me that I need a $300 clutch
>job. Mechanic #3 tells me that he can do an adjustment on the tube that
>the clutch  cable passes thru for $30. Another temptation.

The 3rd mechanic is right. Its the bowden tube. There are a few washers on
the end of a cable preload tube. These keep pressure on the cable, and 
when there aren't enough, the car will shudder. It's true! Honest!

>Help! I'm a mere woman, know enough about the VW to keep myself out of
>major automobile trouble, but am confused!

So? What does that have to do with anything?

>As for the BUS..... only 20,000 miles on rebuilt engine. New starter. New
>battery. However, after driving from Phoenix to Tucson, the red light kept
>going on. Stopped, a nervous wreck, checked the oil, had a COke, and drove
>on again. Red light goes back off. Goes on. Goes off. On the way back from
>Tucson to Phoenix, begins lurching, but only at speed limit. Slowing down
>stops lurching. Could this be caused by the minor valve adjustment
>the kid I bought it from says it needs?   Moot point at the moment,
>since it now does not start. Ever since that monsoon rain the other
>weekend. Turns over, sounds fine, just doesn't kick in. I'm assuming this
>is just another one of those dumb Volks. things like moisture in the
>distributor cap.

Uh.... Need more input...


Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: dchill@sequent.com (Duncan Hill)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Corrado G60
Keywords: How good are they?
Date: 11 Sep 92 13:45:50 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems (Canada) Ltd.

Until July 1 of this year I was driving an 87 16v GTI and loving it.
Someone with a tow truck decided to put an end to that and now I am in the
market for another VW.  I am considering a 90 or 91 Corrado G60 and I am now
seeking advice on what to look for and perhaps some encouragement from
happy or discouragement from unhappy owners.  My other alternative is
another 16v GTI which I know I like.  The new 2.0L engine makes that even
more appealing however for now the Corrado has my attention.  Thanks for
any advice you can lend.
Cheers,  Duncan Hill   (dchill@cansqnt)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: Greg.Kohlbach@bbs.oit.unc.edu (Greg Kohlbach)
Subject: Re: Hinge on '67 bus door
Organization: All is one.  What could be more organized than that?
Respond-To:  GKE@NCCIBM1.BITNET
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 1992 01:34:10 GMT

baw2@cunixb.cc.columbia.edu (Bruce A Weisberg) writes:
>        I need to take the pin out of the upper hinge on the driver side
>door on my '67 bus.  Problem is it won't budge, even after hammering and
>copious Liquid Wrench.  Any suggestions?  I want to install the original
>style mirror, and that's where it goes.  Help!
>
>        Bruce
>        1967 Kombi

I can pass on a highly enthusiastic recommendation for a spray foaming
penetrating oil called _Thrust_.

My cousins who work on a lot of machines were raving about it last Sunday
at Granny Kohlbach's.

Supposedly it loosens the *toughest* rusted-up bolts in at most two
applications.  I'd be pleased to know it works for you.

--Gregor
--
   The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the University of
     North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Campus Office for Information
        Technology, or the Experimental Bulletin Board Service.
           internet:  bbs.oit.unc.edu or 152.2.22.80
From: keys@starchild.ncsl.nist.gov (Lawrence B. Keys)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Seeking Neuspeed chip
Date: 9 Sep 92 12:45:07 GMT
Organization: National Institute of Standards & Technology

In article <1992Sep3.020005.1517@rdr.com> randy@rdr.com (Randy Tidd) writes:
>
>I'm looking for an upgrade chip for my 1992 VW GTI 16v.  I called about a  
>bazillion places and finally got the local number for Autotech, who sells  
>upgrade chips for $275.00.  I heard from a multitude of sources that  
>Neuspeed "P-Chips" are superior, but I can't find a Neuspeed number  
>anywhere, and nobody I called has heard of them nor knows the number.  Can  
>someone help me out?
>
>Thanks
>
>
>Randy

Hi Randy,

About three weeks ago our VW Club (National Capital Area VW) visited 
AutoAuthority, the maker of the chip that you mention.  They actually showed
us how it (chip burning) was done.  Believe it or not all they used was a 
PC and a device which did the burning of the chip.  This device was about
the size of a notebook.  Anyway, it was a pretty interesting "field trip".

The Newspeed Chip that you ask about can been had through Automotive 
Performance Systems.  Their # is: 1 800 423-3623.  I asked the people at
AutoAuthority which chip was better of course they said that theirs was.


Larry

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: aeporro@ariel.lerc.nasa.gov (Bob Porro)
Subject: Re: Spotted: Unusual Quantum
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
Date: 11 Sep 1992 08:25 EST  

In article <1992Sep10.150421.29768@eagle.lerc.nasa.gov>, bdimond@osprey.lerc.nasa.gov writes...
>In article <1992Sep9.133427.28135@cfa203.harvard.edu>, hewett@head-cfa.harvard.edu (Rob Hewett) writes:
>|> Hi - 
>|> 
>|> On my commute this morning I saw a 2 door Quantum
>|> hatchback.  I didn't know such a thing existed.
>|> Looked a bit 411-ish.  Color was a sort of tan-copper.
>|> 
>|> I realize this is not earth-shaking:-)
>|> 
> 
>A bit 411-ish?  Are you sure it wasn't a VW Dasher?

A couple of years ago we had a German engingeer in our organization as part of 
an exchange program.  In Germany, he owned one of these Quantums. 
I don't think that this model was normally imported into the U.S.  I've 
seen one of these, and my impression was that it slightly resembles an Audi
Coupe of early '80's vintage. 

******************************************************************************
| Bob Porro                    || (The opinions expressed here are not       |
| aeporro@venus.lerc.nasa.gov  ||  necessarily those of the management ?\*!) |
|                              ||                                            |
******************************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mike@mote.Berkeley.EDU (Mike Friedrich)
Subject: Re: Spotted: Unusual Quantum
Organization: University of California at Berkeley
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 19:33:51 GMT

In article <1992Sep10.150421.29768@eagle.lerc.nasa.gov> bdimond@osprey.lerc.nasa.gov writes:
>In article <1992Sep9.133427.28135@cfa203.harvard.edu>, hewett@head-cfa.harvard.edu (Rob Hewett) writes:
>|> 
>|> On my commute this morning I saw a 2 door Quantum
>|> hatchback.  I didn't know such a thing existed.
>|> Looked a bit 411-ish.  Color was a sort of tan-copper.
> 
>A bit 411-ish?  Are you sure it wasn't a VW Dasher?

VW did sell a 2-door Quantum hatchback in '82 and '83 in the US, and sold
lots of 4-door hatchbacks in Europe.  The two-door is pretty good-looking.
I don't think that they make a hatchback version of the new Passat.  Why
not?  Why don't automakers sell hatchbacks in the US?  Few other cars are
as practical as my '79 Dasher.  I can get 2 bikes, several pairs of skis,
or cabinets in it, which you can't do in a sedan with folding seats.
Hatchbacks are at least as good-looking as sedans.  Keep on hatchin'!

Mike Friedrich
mike@mote.berkeley.edu
From: Danny_Prousline@lbl.gov (D. Prousline)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: 85 GTI CV joints
Date: 9 Sep 1992 23:48:00 GMT
Organization: LBL
Distribution: USA
NNTP-Posting-Host: 128.3.120.21

Hi! 
I bought 85 GTI (golf) because I needed to get a cheap fun car instead of 
a falling apart BMW 530i.
But: having bought it cheap I now have to replace CV joints (and a bunch of other 
things) on maybe(!!) both sides.
I know that both outer boots are torn and passenger side one is making the screeching(?)
noise.
How much time do I have before the joints wear out completely? 
What $$$ am I looking at?
Should I change the whole shaft or just the outer joints?
Or just one side for the beginning?
What is the normal mileage that those things wear out?

Your responses are very appreciated.
Sorry if it is aFAQ  I just got this group.

DP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: CV joints 
From: jan@camhpp12.mdcbbs.com (Jan Vandenbrande)
Date: 14 Sep 92 12:48:52 PDT
Organization: M&E (Division of EDS), Cypress CA

In article <1992Sep10.211130.27766@mks.com> seanw@mks.com (Sean Wilson) writes:
>
>I have a number of questions:
>
Previous postings should have answered most of these, but I do
want to add something:

>1.  Why do VW CV joints seem to need replacing constantly?
>2.  How long do they usually last?
>3.  How much do they cost to replace?

>4.  Are there any particular model years in which the CV joints were really
>    bad?

NO, there are only two or three CVJ models around for watercooled
VWs. 
However, what does matter is what car it's in. For example, in A1
Sciroccos, the CVJs are really exposed and so tend to be hit with a
lot of debris. My ex-81 S probably went through 4 or so ripped boots,
and two CVJs in its 170 000 kms I owned it.

On the other hand, our ex-A2 GTI only ripped one or two boots
in the same amount of mileage, and I contribute that to these
boots being less exposed.

BTW: Here's another tip from WolfSport: Outer CVJ boots should be replaced 
every 50 k miles, and when you do, repack and swap the CVJ from 
left to right. That'll wear the other CVJ surfaces, and prolong their
lives.


-- 
Jan

jan@camhpp12.mdcbbs.com		(work)
jan@lipari.usc.edu		(school, usually works, forwards)
Xref: sparky rec.autos.vw:5138 rec.autos.tech:12617
From: sylveste@ecs.umass.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw,rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Broken Window Crank on 86 VW Golf
Date: 14 Sep 92 12:07:05 GMT
Distribution: usa

In article <1992Sep13.190049.22487@umbc3.umbc.edu>, chang@venus.cs.umbc.edu (Richard Chang) writes:
> I need advice and comments on fixing the window crank in my 86 VW Golf.  
> 
> My window suddently stopped working yesterday.  I took the door panel
> apart and sure enough, the lower cable snapped.  I tried to figure
> out how the window crank works (the Bentley Manual is strangely
> silent on this part of the car) by taking apart the crank unit.
> It seems that there is a spool which simultaneously lets out
> one cable (say the upper cable when you roll the window down) and
> reels in the other cable.  I had to pry open some metal tabs to
> figure this out.
> 
> My questions are:  
>  1.  Can I do this job myself? or is it not worth the time/money?
>  2.  If I do it myself, do I just replace the cables? 
>      (It seems like a tough job to get the lengths right.)
>  3.  or do I just get the crank unit with the cables attached?
>      (and do I have to get the part at a VW dealer or is
>       there a 3rd party source?)
>     
> Any advice or comments would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> Richard Chang
> (chang@cs.umbc.edu)

     Richard,
               Yes you can do this yourself and it is worth the time.  This
part from a vw dealer is expensive and so is the labor rate. 
    I am very familiar with Audi and VW is very similar.  
    The cables that you speake of is actually one cable and you see both ends
of it.  Your best bet is to buy the whole unit used from a junk yard.  The
reason for this is that I don't believe that the cable can be removed from the
track because of the lead balls on the ends of the cable.  This unit that you
need is called the "window regulator".  This part new from VW is around $125
and the dealer would charge you for about 1.5 hours to install it.  After all
was said and done you would be paying around $200 to fix your window.

                                             mike sylvester
                                             sylveste@ecs.umass.edu
From: bryan@tekgen.bv.tek.com (Bryan Olson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Fuel pump running constantly.
Date: 10 Sep 92 17:08:50 GMT
Organization: Tektronix, Inc.

I have a 1988 VW Jetta Caret. The last few days, I have noticed a noise coming
from the fuel tank area whenever the engine is running which I assume is the
fuel pump. It is the same noise that I get for 3 to 5 seconds when I turn the
key on. It still turns on and then off when I turn the key on.

Is this supposed to run constantly and I just noticed it?

If not, are there some "most likely" solutions?

Thanks,
	Bryan Olson
	bryan@tekgen.bv.tek.com
From: tcritchl@sdcc3.ucsd.edu (Tod Critchlow)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Highback Seats for 71 Van
Date: 15 Sep 92 17:30:34 GMT

Hello,

	I have a '71 vanagon and a new family.
My van has low back seats, without the whiplash
protector things.  Does anybody know if high
back seats from newer vans will go straight in
or will I have to do some modifications?
Thanks in advance.
tod


-- 
_____________________________________________________________________
Tod Critchlow(tcritchl@ucsd.edu)      |  What the Hell is a
Univ of Calif, San Diego              |  Signature anyways??
Scripps Institution of Oceanography   | 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: pk16@frc.ri.cmu.edu (Paul Keller)
Subject: rabbit doesn't know when to stop
Reply-To: pk16@frc.ri.cmu.edu (Paul Keller)
Organization: Field Robotics Center, CMU
Distribution: rec
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 21:52:20 GMT


My '83 rabbit (about 100K) has a new problem: occasional run on
(diesling).  This only happens occasionally (1 in 10-20 stops?).  I
would like to know what the probable cause is, estimated $ to fix, and
possible damage that could result from ignoring it?

Thanks

--
Paul Keller                     paul.keller@frc.ri.cmu.edu
Field Robotics Center           Phone: (412) 268-6563
The Robotics Institute          Fax: (412) 682-1793
Carnegie Mellon University
Pittsburgh, PA 15213
From: IO00139@MAINE.MAINE.EDU (Erik Sette)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: J.C. Whitney???
Date: 15 Sep 92 15:48:37 GMT
Organization: University of Maine System

I was wondering if anyone has any opinions on the quality
of parts from J.C. Whitney i.e. exhuast, struts, etc.

--
io00139@maine.maine.edu
esette@bunter.eece.maine.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: burden_d@oass.enet.dec.com ()
Subject: Re: 195-60 HR-14s on an '84 GTI???
Reply-To: burden_d@oass.enet.dec.com ()
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 21:38:45 GMT


195/60x14s should fit without a problem.  I think the 16v GTIs have
205/55x14, so until you go a few more steps wider, there's no need
to go to a 55 series.

--
Dave Burden                                      ______--------___
Digital Equip Corp - Alpharetta, GA             /|             / |
                                     o___________|_\__________/__|
burden_d@oass.enet.dec.com          ]|___     |   |=  ||  =|___  |"
                                    //   \\   |   |___||_///   \\|"
                                    |  X  |\-------------/|  X  |\"
                                     \___/ 1924 Studebaker \___/
					Special 6 Touring Car
From: jdonsbac@cvbnet.prime.com (Jeff Donsbach)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Fuel pump running constantly.
Date: 11 Sep 92 20:17:32 GMT
Organization: Computervision Corp, Bedford MA

If I'm not mistaken, a noisy VW fuel pump is usually indicative that
it's going to give out soon.....

-Jeff

-- 
==========================
Jeff Donsbach, Computervision Corp, 14 Crosby Dr., Bedford, MA 
UUCP: {decvax|linus|sun}!cvbnet!jdonsbac | Internet: jdonsbac@cvbnet.prime.com
"10 bucks is 10 bucks" - Geddy Lee
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rmd@uunet.UU.NET (Ricky M. Dimmick)
Subject: Need Motor and Tranny for 66 VW 
Organization: UUNET Technologies 
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1992 21:49:32 GMT


I am interested in having an engine built for my bug (1835)... has anyone
used any of the mail-order ads i.e. in VW Trends?  I want an 1835 with the crank
balanced, stock cam, 92mm jugs, flycut heads, and a lightened flywheel.  Has anyone had an engine built in the MD/Wash D.C./Va area and want to give a recommendation ?  I also need a rebuilt tranny (swing-axle)?  Any help is appreciated.  


Please post to this group or send mail to rmd@uunet.UU.NET


Rick D.
From: hersh@expo.lcs.mit.edu (Jay Hersh)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Weird MPG reading on MFA (86 GTI)
Date: 14 Sep 92 19:48:07 GMT
Organization: X Consortium, MIT Laboratory for Computer Science


Weird stuff, until today, for the past several days, the MPG reading
on the MFA on my GTI (acronym hell eh??) was showing up as 99.9.
Resetting it with the little reset button had no effect. Prior to this
it worked fine, and in fact gave pretty accurate readings when checked
against the fill tank and divide by miles driven method. Then magically
today it was working again, and apparently reading accurately.

The weather here has not been particularly wet, so I don't suspect 
a short. I initially thought perhaps a wire came loose, or the sending
unit (whatever determines the MPG) failed. I have had no time to check
it, nor even look in the shop manual to read about it.

Anyone else encountered anyting similar???


	JaH
--
Hopfen und Malz, Gott erhalts
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: steve@iphase.uucp (Steve Kappes)
Subject: 87 GTI overheating
Organization: Interphase Corp.
Distribution: usa
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 1992 16:50:56 GMT

I have an 87 16v GTI that seems to overheat when the the teperature
excedes 100 degrees, and I use the air conditoning.  I say it seems
to overheat, as the water temperature gauge does not get out of the
"normal range", but the car starts missing and the oil temperature
hits about 250 degrees.  The problem first occured about 2 years ago,
but two mechanics failed to find anything wrong.  The thermostat has
been replaced about three times, I don't believe any of them were bad.
The car has had a very low teperature thermostat for the last couple of years,
which isn't too bad for Texas, but it really doesn't help this problem.

Possibly related to this is that when it is very hot, the air conditioning
fan does not shut off after shutting the car off, killing the battery.
Both problems started at roughly the same time.
This does no happen if I shut the air conditioning off when the car is
off.  That is, the fan stays on for the normal couple of minutes after turning
the car off, and then shuts off as it should.

Telling that to a mechanic is good for some strange looks.

The coolant has been flushed every couple of years,  The problem has gone
on this long as the summers here have been pretty mild the last
couple of years.  Before I take it in for its 90k service, I'd like to
have some suggestions if anyone has any.

Thanks,

Steve Kappes  Interphase Corp.  iphase.COM!steve
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mooresm@infonode.ingr.com (S. Mark Moore)
Subject: Re: fuel injector test
Organization: Intergraph Repair Depot, Huntsville, AL
Distribution: rec
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1992 00:13:38 GMT

In article <1992Sep14.173129.7860@newsgate.sps.mot.com> mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw) writes:
>In article <PK16.92Sep13150601@mushroom.frc.ri.cmu.edu>, pk16@frc.ri.cmu.edu (Paul Keller) writes:
>|> 
>|> I am trying to test my fuel injectors ('83 rabbit with hard hot start
>|> problems, rough uneven idle at 100K).  I finally was able to pull one
>|> the ignition key to on, lifting the air sensor plate and dropping it
>|> back down.  This should give a nice even spray pattern.  Well, nothing
>|> happened.  Not even with repeated lifting and dropping of the plate.
>
>The fuel pump must be running.
>
>|> the same thing that Chilton says.  I guess this is to get the fuel
>|> pump running (why not just turn the key?). 
>
>Well, the fuel pump relay has an input from the ignition coil (like a tach)
>and it requires a pulsing signal to indicate that the engine is running.
>This is a fail-safe method to kill the fuel pump should a hose pop off
>and the engine stops (otherwise fuel everywhere!).
>
On my wife's '76 924 (VW), The sensor plate regulated the flow of fuel and
had contacts to turn the fuel pump off when no air was flowing into the engine.

>|> When I was done with all of this, I went to put the injector back in
>|> the engine, and noticed that some gas had beaded up around the end,
>|> which sounds like it needs to be replaced, but I would like to do a
>|> full test anyway.
>
On my 911, the injectors are not supposed to spray until fuel pressure exceeds
35psi.  Maybe you did not have enough pressure.
>
>Mark

s. mark
-- 
S. Mark Moore		(205) 730-5515
mooresm@infonode.ingr.com
!uunet!ingr.com!b25!iptrad!mark
From: kpjone01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: GTi engine in a 914?!?!?!?!?!?
Date: 15 Sep 92 22:34:00 GMT
Organization: University of Louisville

Has anyone ever thought of putting a GTi engine into a 914?  If it would fit,
it might be nice to have the reliability and power of a GTi engine in a 
chassis that could handle like the 914 can.  Any ideas???
 

Kevin


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Kevin Jones                                   KPJONE01@ULKYVX.CT.LOUISVILLE.EDU
Lab Supervisor                                KPJONE01@ULKYVX.LOUISVILLE.EDU
Computing and Telecommunications              PHONE:  502-588-6303
University of Louisville, KY                  FAX:    502-588-0150

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
From: eldred@rrunner.jpl.nasa.gov (Dan Eldred)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Buying an old VW Rabbit
Date: 4 Sep 92 23:10:57 GMT
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory

In article <31170062@hpspkla.spk.hp.com> borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski) writes:
>In rec.autos.vw, eldred@rrunner.jpl.nasa.gov (Dan Eldred) writes:
>
>>Replacing the clutch is difficult==expensive, so make sure to add this to
>>the purchase cost of the car, unless you are able to convince yourself that
>>the clutch is ok and it's only the adjustment.  Ditto with the CV joint--
>
>On only a very few cars is replacing the clutch more easy (as Saab 99 for
>example).  And there are a lot on which it is more difficult.  I did the
>job on Saturday.
>

I don't know about the Saab 99, but on the Saab 900 you need an expensive
special tool to replace the clutch.

As for cars with an easy-to-replace clutch, I can't imagine anything being
easier than my late '71 VW Bus.  After removing the bumper and rear apron, the
engine pulled straight back.  I could have it out in 20 minutes.  (Note--
this reflects a lot of practice removing the engine :(    ).

Good to hear that the Rabbit clutch is easy to replace.  I suppose I'll have
to worry about that some day (170,000 miles so far on original).

	- Dan