HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: lloyd@leland.Stanford.EDU (William Koenig Lloyd)
Subject: Re: What's the deal on Conti tubes?
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 92 23:09:20 GMT

In article <BzCs8E.KyI@cs.uiuc.edu> tthiel@cs.uiuc.edu (Terry Thiel) writes:
>I saw some Continental inner tubes at my local shop the other day and since
>I needed some spares and revere Conti's tires I started to buy a couple
>when I noticed they were $12.95 apiece!  Now I don't mind paying $30 bucks
>or so for Grand Prix tires but but $12.95 is alot for a tube!  Anyone know
>why they cost so much?  The local dealer said they're made by Panaracer.  Their
>regular Panaracer tubes are only $4 or $5 so what's the diff?
>-Terry

What happened must've been that the pricing guy at the shop went a little
overboard.  Conti tubes are generally a buck or so more than the el-cheapo
tubes, about even in price with something like Specialized ultralights.  I
kinda doubt they're made by Panaracer, since the last Panaracer tube I saw
looked like it was made out of about 100 3-inch by 1-inch slabs of rubber
(it had so many seams that I tried to patch it but, no surprise, one of the
holes was right up against a seam--unpatchable!).  The Conti tubes are
"seamless," so they have one radial seam but no longitudinal ones.  I don't
know if they're any better, I've only been riding 'em for about 400 miles
(but no flats yet...).  I think they cost me $4.50 each.

Bill
From: pcbk1@cbnewsj.cb.att.com (bryan.s.katz)
Subject: advice wanted: seat adjustment
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 11:51:15 GMT

  I got a new bike a little while ago (an RB1), and I'm still adjusting to it.

  I've noticed that when I hit a hill, I get a bit more power by sliding 
  back a tiny bit on the seat.  I didn't notice this with my old bike, and
  I'm wondering if this is common, or whether this indicates I need to adjust
  my seat again (back or up).  I'm comfortable otherwise, and I'm tired of
  micro-adjustments....

  Advice?  Is this common?

  Thanx in advance.


  bryan k.
  "still no clever disclaimer"
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen)
Subject: Re: Where's the Indexing?
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Distribution: bnr
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 92 22:57:12 GMT

In article <1992Dec15.151637.23013@ObjecTime.on.ca> peter@helix.ObjecTime.on.ca (Peter Epstein) writes:
>You can keep your old non-indexing derailleur if:
>a) it pulls the same amount of cable per gear as the new shifter
>   (this is a function of the cog spacing)

the amount that a derailleur moves for a certain amount of cable
pulled is a function of its geometry.  i think what you meant to
say is that the old derailleur is ok if it moves the amount that
it's supposed to move with each click of the shifter.  in other words,
if the old derailleur moves the same amount as the new indexing
derailleur does, it should work.  you will also have to worry about
cog spacing, though.

>b) you have some place to adjust cable tension.  If you're using
>down-tube shifters, you may be out of luck.  Mountain bike thumb 
>shifters have cable tension adjusters on them.

every derailleur i can think of has a barrel adjuster.  even on
my MTB, the deore derailleur has it (though i also have adjusters
on the shifters themselves).

-teddy
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: josh@Happy-Man.com (Joshua_Putnam)
Subject: Re: FM Radio
Reply-To: Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com
Organization: Happy Man Corp., Vashon Island, WA 98070-7399
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 18:05:44 GMT

In <1992Dec17.200342.24269@cbfsb.cb.att.com> dwb@cbnewsb.cb.att.com (david.boyle) writes:

>I haven't seen it discussed at all in the past year or so but here goes...

>Does anyone ride with a bike-mounted fm radio?  If yes, where could I find
>something decent?  How about getting good reception while riding?

My hybrid/touring bike has a front rack, on top of which I
bungee-cord a Radio Shack "all weather" radio.  It mostly lives
up to the name, but when the speaker cone fills up with rain the
sound gets distorted, though no permanent damage is done.  I put
a sandwich bag over the speaker and it solved the problem.  The
radio gets much better reception than those handlebar-mounted
things RS sells, and has a much lower profile so it isn't in the
way and doesn't catch much wind.  On a previous bike without a
front rack, I mounted the radio on a piece of plywood held to the
handlebars with large-diameter Blackburn clamps (1" dia).

Reception isn't quite as good as a car radio -- it fades out
about 5 miles sooner when climbing the North Cascades Highway,
for example, and is more prone to local poor reception.
-- 
 Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com    Happy Man Corp.  206/463-9399 x102
 4410 SW Pt. Robinson Rd., Vashon Island, WA  98070-7399  fax x108
 We publish SOLID VALUE for the intelligent investor.  NextMail OK
Info free; sample $20: Send POSTAL addr: Solid-Value@happy-man.com
From: jbrandt@hplred.HPL.HP.COM (Jobst Brandt)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 00:55:34 GMT
Subject: Re: Front Brake Usage
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories, Palo Alto, CA
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech

John Forester writes:

> Had I realized the misapprehension that might result, I would have
> happily inserted a non-mathematical description of the events
> after the initial fork collapse to prevent that misappre-hension.

First off, sorry for misspelling your name, I should know better.
What got my attention in your article was that there was an implied
time dependency on the damage to the fork that apparently would not
have occurred had the wheel been stopped by the front brake.  In
this instance the wheel was stopped by a child's foot in the front
wheel.  I propose that, including the elasticity of a fork and the
spoke/soft shoe obstacle, the circumstance was no different than
braking and what caused fork failure was cheap material.

On various occasions I have seen others and my own bike experience
such a jolt from a stick in the front wheel.  At that point, the
riders did not anticipate the event and were not bracing against the
sudden stop.  On pavement, overturning follows in any case but even
on a dirt road, because the rider is not anticipating a stop, he
goes over.  None of these crashes damaged the bike other than some
loss wheel alignment.

> However, I think that you also err a bit in saying that the
> cyclist's thighs flip the bicycle. The bicycle would be flipping
> by itself, even before the cyclist's thighs came from behind to
> assist that action.

I think you will find that in most instances the CG of the bicycle
is not high enough to overturn the bike.  Anticipating nothing, the
rider you describe would have no forward restraint except the
friction on the seat, a friction lower than that of the tire on the
road (the child in the child seat probably does otherwise).  The
saddle position being behind a 45 degree line from the front tire
contact with the road, the rider would have no effect on the
overturning stability of the bicycle except to prevent it from
turning over as easily as without a rider.  The assumption here is
that coefficient of friction is no greater than one, a number
substantiated by many bicycle tire measurements.

On the other hand, I was disappointed to see your writing in a
publication with such poor credentials.  Even Chester Kyle tried
hard to get credible writers to write for Cycling Science.  I don't
think it worth the hazard of association because too many specious
articles have appeared in its pages for anyone of merit to raise its
credibility.

jobst_brandt@hplabs.hp.com
From: warriors@eb5ts4.EBay.Sun.COM (Dave Maycon)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Need tips on climbing hills w/ loose gravel
Date: 16 Dec 1992 17:53:33 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.  Mt. View, Ca.
Distribution: usa
Reply-To: warriors@eb5ts4.EBay.Sun.COM (Dave Maycon)
NNTP-Posting-Host: eb5ts4.ebay.sun.com

I am talking about steep hills w/ loose gravel.  Does anybody have any
rules of thumb when combating these hills.

gee thanx

Dave
       
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: walvdrk_r@research.ptt.nl (Kees van der Wal)
Subject: Re: Vistalight LED
Organization: PTT Research, The Netherlands
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 22:20:40 GMT

In article <29276@castle.ed.ac.uk>, cam@castle.ed.ac.uk (Chris Malcolm) writes:

> In article <1992Dec5.220308.1@research.ptt.nl> walvdrk_r@research.ptt.nl (Kees van der Wal) writes:

>>In article <28969@castle.ed.ac.uk>, biegler@castle.ed.ac.uk (R Biegler) writes:

>>> I bought one of the Vistalight LED lights, advertised as giving up to
>>> 300 hours

>>I measured about 15mA current. Alkaline AA-cells contain about 1Ah of energy, 

> I hope you used a moving metal meter. Digital sampling meters can give
> considerable over-estimates when asked to measure rapidly intermittent
> current.

The dusty old moving meter trembles between 14mA and 15mA. The scope I fired up 
didn't give any light anymore ;-(

Regards, <kees>
From: Howard.Gerber@f88.n106.z1.fidonet.org (Howard Gerber)
Sender: Jpunix@urchin.fidonet.org
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: 1 Re: Vistalight LED
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 19:40:20 -0500

Dick King <king@reasoning.com> writes:

 DK> People don't keep logs accurate enough to recharge their 30 hour
batteries
 DK> at, say, 25 hours [although they could, and this is long enough so
that a
 DK> once-a-week recharge ought to be plenty].
 DK> The question is, how much time do you have after symptoms start to
show
 DK> before you go dark?
 DK> With NiCads, the answer is "minutes".  Not good.

 There's a very simple, low-tech, solution: carry a spare set of
batteries
 with you. Since the Vistalight only uses two AA batteries, it's rather
 easy to carry an extra couple with you at night.

 On the practical side, I know that I never ride more than 20 hours a
week
 at night, so I just recharge my batteries once a week and I've never
had
 my Vistalight go out on me.

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: burkins@green.crayola.cs.psu.edu (Chad T Burkins)
Subject: Re: CRANK PROBLEM ::: THANKS FOR ADVICE
Organization: Penn State Center for Academic Computing
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL3
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 92 00:41:43 GMT

In article <1992Dec15.160700.22363@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu> you write:
: 
:     Just wanted to thank everyone for the advice on crank pulling.  Thanks!
: 
:                                                     -Dan
: 
   After all this debate on how to do it, I can't believe you didn't
tell us how you did it ????  Did it work ??? Did you get them off ??
Tell the story =)

--
-- 
Chad Burkins           | Life is short,     ---   __ o    __~o    __ o
-----------------------|    ride like    ----    _`\<,   _`\<,   _`\<,
ctb103@psuvm.psu.edu   |      the wind.    ---  ( )/( ) ( )/( ) ( )/( )
burkins@crayola.cs.psu.edu |----------------------------------------------

 

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: ezag637@chpc.utexas.edu (Steve Manifold)
Subject: Re: Chain Maintenance Question
Summary: Tastschnittgeraet?
Keywords: chain wear hole
Organization: The University of Texas System CHPC
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 92 19:04:21 GMT

In article <1992Dec18.175030.24033@samba.oit.unc.edu>, Bernd.Kischnick@launchpad.unc.edu (Bernd Kischnick) writes:
> In article <1460043@hplred.HPL.HP.COM> jbrandt@hplred.HPL.HP.COM (Jobst Brandt) writes:
> >Bernd Kischnick writes:
> >> [about Rohloff chains]
> >
> 
> I don't know about those pins. Anyway, we cannot argue about facts. Either
> the holes are slightly egg-shaped or they are not. Put a side
> plate under your Tastschnittgeraet and check it, if you don't
                   ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Bernd, please!  My ears are burning!
-- 
_______________________________________________________________________________
Steve Manifold                                              University of Texas 
ezag637@hermes.chpc.utexas.edu                           College of Engineering
tasc637@crovax.cem.utexas.edu                       Center for Electromechanics
Xref: sparky rec.bicycles.tech:2689 rec.bicycles.marketplace:1638
Organization: Stanford Linear Accelerator Center
Date: Tuesday, 15 Dec 1992 11:18:20 PST
From: <TOM@SLACVM.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech,rec.bicycles.marketplace
Subject: Re: Shimano Road Shoes?

I have a pair for sale, which I used for less than 3 months.  I sell these
size 41 for $25.00 which I think is a fair price.  They are in very nice shape!

                                               -tom
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: mack@oakhill.sps.mot.com (Gregg Mack ( Sun ))
Subject: Re: Looking for rechargable battery supplier
Organization: Motorola Inc., Austin, Texas
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 14:36:34 GMT

jcollias@src.dec.com (Jim Collias) writes:

>now, but I need some sources for a rechargable battery.  
>Anyone have an address or a phone number of a good inexpensive
>battery supplier? 

Well, a year ago, Comsumer Reports rated the Radio Shack NiCds as the
best in the size C category.  I do not remember if that was also true
in the AA and D sizes, but I was looking for size C to put into my 
Cateye headlight.  I do know that the Radio Shack batteries need to
use the Radio Shack rechargers, and not a conventional recharger.
Don't remember the exact reason (and I'm an EE now hanging my head
in shame ;-), though.  This was mentioned in the Consumer Reports
as a "minus", but it didn't matter to me since I didn't already have
a recharger anyway!


-- 
Gregg Mack                  ---------- __o       __o       __o       __o
gmack@paceline.sps.mot.com  -------- _`\<,_    _`\<,_    _`\<,_    _`\<,_
Motorola RISC uProcessors   ------- (*)/ (*)  (*)/ (*)  (*)/ (*)  (*)/ (*)
Austin, Texas  USA          ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
From: budn@hpmwtd.sr.hp.com (Bud Noren)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 21:41:15 GMT
Subject: Re: advice wanted: seat adjustment
Organization: HP Santa Rosa Site (SRSD MWTD)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech

pcbk1@cbnewsj.cb.att.com (bryan.s.katz) writes:

  >I've noticed that when I hit a hill, I get a bit more power by sliding 
  >back a tiny bit on the seat.  I didn't notice this with my old bike, and
  >I'm wondering if this is common, or whether this indicates I need to adjust
  >my seat again (back or up).  I'm comfortable otherwise, and I'm tired of
  >micro-adjustments....

  >Advice?  

If it feels good, keep doing it.

  >Is this common?

Yup.  Very.

-Bud
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: jimw@hfglobe.intel.com (Jim Williams)
Subject: XTR 8SPD and thumb shifters.
Organization: Intel Corporation
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 23:34:43 GMT

I was just told that you could use XTR hub and cog with XT thumb shifters
and XT derailer.  Is This True?

Jim Williams
From: isdhm@acad2.alaska.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Where's the Indexing?
Date: 15 Dec 92 03:32:43 GMT
Organization: University of Alaska

Just a short easy question...

It would seem that on idexed shifters, the indexing would be in the shifters. 
I would specifically mention one reason I would think this, on on above the bar
shifters you can switch from index to friction at the shifters.

So if this is the case, that indexing is in the shifters, not in the derailers,
then wouldnt it be possible to upgrade a friction system to indexed by changing
only the shifters?

I have always thought the indexing was in the shifters, and had nothing to do
with the derailers themselves.  

-dave myhill
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: sbtaves@icaen.uiowa.edu (Steven Bradley Taves)
Subject: Help! Freewheel wear!
Organization: Iowa Computer Aided Engineering Network, University of Iowa
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 17:18:03 GMT

Hi all,

I am an amateur(obviously) at bike maintenance and I've run into what
I think is a common problem.  I have a mountain bike with shimano 400lx
parts.   I was told when I bought the bike that I should replace the chain
about every 4  months.  But I didnt get around to it until this week, which
makes it about 6 or 7 months.  Now I have chain slippage when I get on it
(pedal hard). I was told that it was the rear sprockets wearing with my
old chain that now makes them incompatible with my new chain.  And I was told
that I would need to replace the chainwheel and, freewheel, which would run me
over $100.

Are there any alternatives?  Can I somehow tighten my chain?  Should I put
my old chain back on?  Help.

Thanks,
Steve

-- 
sbtaves@icaen.uiowa.edu
From: lars@craycos.com (Ron Larson)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Anyone using an 11-tooth cog?
Date: 15 Dec 92 20:03:20 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: Cray Computer Corporation

In article <PATRICK.92Dec14210839@casbs.Stanford.EDU> patrick@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Goebel) writes:
>Question 3: Do any other cassette hub manufactures (e.g. Campy, Mavic)
>            offer an 11-tooth cog option?

I have a Campy cassette with an 11 tooth cog that I have been riding
since early summer. I bought it from Colorado Cyclist (not in the catalog
but if you ask ....). The cog is small enough that it would interfer with
the normal lockring, so it comes with a special lockring and has a surface
of locking ridges milled into one side that allows the lockring to be
separate but recessed into the cog itself.

>Question 4: Are there any inherent problems in using such a small cog?

The only "problem" I have found is that I seem to experience a little knee
strain when pushing a 53 / 11.  My intent when I bought the 11 tooth was to
use it for descents in the mountains and other places where I could spin
out the 12 tooth next to it.  I probably tend to push the 11 tooth too
often.

lars
-- 
Ron Larson                       |   If pro is the opposite of con,
Cray Computer Corporation        |   what is the opposite of progress??
lars@craycos.com  (719)-540-4232 |              Frank & Ernest
From: asberry@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Kevin Asberry)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Suspension Debate
Date: 15 Dec 92 14:01:00 GMT
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server

In article <82020003@hpcc01.corp.hp.com>, asberry@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Kevin Asberry) writes:
>   For more info, the October issue of Mountainbike Action has an 
> article on suspension with a short review of the AMP fork.  BTW,
> this fork incorporates a ridgid fork with a cantilever setup between
> the fork crown and the head tube.  It uses a combination of coil spring,
> elastomer bumper, and hydraulic damper, and looks great.  The early
> evaluation I got from the salesman was just that, an EARLY evaluation.
> Check it out for yourselves, and post your reactions (that's if you
> can find one yet.)
> 
> Kevin Asberry
> 
  In my previous response, I mentioned the wrong issue of MBA.  It was
either the November or December issue that had the article on suspension.
One thing that was in the October issue, was a preview of Specialized's
new full suspension bike.  And, on the prototype bike was mounted an AMP
fork (the production bike will use their own Futureshock.)
  Here are a couple more tidbits about the AMP fork:  It was designed by
Horst Leitner, and will retail for about $390, though obviously it will
be discounted somewhat.

Kevin Asberry
                 at
		       ___   ___   _________
                      /  /  /  /  /  ___   /
                     /  /  /  /  /  /  /  /
                    /  /__/  /  /  /__/  /
                   /   __   /  /  ______/
                  /  /  /  /  /  /
                 /  /  /  /  /  /
                /__/  /__/  /__/
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: legolas@daimi.aau.dk (Anders Jacob Truelsen)
Subject: Re: XTR 8SPD and thumb shifters.
Organization: DAIMI: Computer Science Department, Aarhus University, Denmark
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 92 12:15:48 GMT

jimw@hfglobe.intel.com (Jim Williams) writes:

>I was just told that you could use XTR hub and cog with XT thumb shifters
>and XT derailer.  Is This True?

YES !
I belive (not sure though) that Trek has a bike in 93 cataloge with that 
almost that combo. Only the Trek bike uses XTR derailer. Ought not make
that much diff. in funktionality.

cheers anders
--
    ,_~o    Anders Truelsen               email : legolas@daimi.aau.dk
  _-\_<,    DAIMI. University of Aarhus     or    legolas@imv.aau.dk
(*)/'(*)    8000 Aarhus                   tel   : +45-86188915
            DENMARK                       fax   : ... nah forget it :) 
	 - cannondale FOREVER !!


-- 
                        -- han spiser fr han sprger 'GRIMME RBER' !!
From: dhm1@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (DANIEL HILL MCCAULEY)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: CRANK PULLING PROBLEM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Date: 14 Dec 92 05:07:19 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University


    I have a BIG problem.  I am trying to take the cranks off an old frame
    because the cranks are shot beyond belief.  I got one crank off but the
    other side (side with chainrings) the threads inside the crank where the
    crankpuller should screw in are totally stripped, by some unknown reason.
    Maybe a bike shop pulled a fast one years ago and replaced the cap nice
    and tight so that I couldn't see the damage.  Well my question is:  How
    should I go about taking this crank off without damaging the bottom
    bracket shell.  I don't give a damn about the cranks, I'll break them if I
    have to.  I already tried getting the fixed cup off, but failed.  I also
    don't care about the bottom bracket.  All suggestions welcomed.
    Thanks!!!!!!!

                                                -Dan
 
-- 
*******************************************************************************
*Dan McCauley       (Lair of Sam, Lisa, Spot, Spot II, and Victoria)
*                              ...with carcasses of dead smelly vermin!
*******************************************************************************
From: dhm1@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (DANIEL HILL MCCAULEY)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: CRANK PROBLEM ::: THANKS FOR ADVICE
Date: 16 Dec 92 18:51:07 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

In article <65=vHa48eb@atlantis.psu.edu>, burkins@green.crayola.cs.psu.edu (Chad
 T Burkins) writes:
>In article <1992Dec15.160700.22363@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu> you write:
>:
>:     Just wanted to thank everyone for the advice on crank pulling.  Thanks!
>:
>:                                                     -Dan
>:
>   After all this debate on how to do it, I can't believe you didn't
>tell us how you did it ????  Did it work ??? Did you get them off ??
>Tell the story =)
>
>--
    I finally did do it by using a gear puller from my local mechanic.  Thanks
    again!

                                                -Dan


                                                
-- 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Daniel H. McCauley IV                                   Lehigh University   |
| Electrical Engineering                                  UC #29 Box 58A      |
| DHM1@NS3.CC.LEHIGH.EDU                                  Bethlehem, PA 18015 |
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Mackintosh)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Suspension Debate
Date: 16 Dec 92 12:25:11 GMT
Reply-To: mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Mackintosh)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.bicycles.tech, asberry@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Kevin Asberry) writes:

>  Here are a couple more tidbits about the AMP fork:  It was designed by
>Horst Leitner, and will retail for about $390, though obviously it will
>be discounted somewhat.

Someone showed up at a weekly race series a couple of weeks ago with
a new Mongoose Amplifier which of course has the AMP fork and also a
rear supension.  I really like the fork although it looks like it may
be longer than most shock-type forks (anyone know?).  I didn't really
talk to the guy but after he didn't show up the following week someone
said: "Yeah, He's broken that thing three times now."  Apparantly all
three failures were on the frame and swingarm, not the fork.

David Mackintosh