HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: lxfogel@srv.PacBell.COM (Lee Fogel)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Free-roaming iguanas
Date: 8 Jan 93 01:27:44 GMT
Organization: Pacific * Bell

In article <C0HzrC.9Lw@optimla.aimla.com> walter@optimla.aimla.com (Walter Hunt) writes:
>
>	Do any of the ig owners out there let there pets run free around the
>apartment/house constantly? 

Nero has had the run of a medium-sized room, usually a living room or
study depending on where we were living.  Important features of such
a room:

Accessable window, no carpet, no holes in walls or radiators with
ineccessable crevices, door to close ig in.

>	He seems to hate his (55G) tank, constantly trying to escape,

wouldn't you?

> Only trouble is, if
>I let him roam he inevitably a) finds a difficult to reach spot that's 
b) one of
>the coldest in the apartment. 

This can be a problem.

>[other concerns deleted]

I think the key is to wait until they get a bit older and mellow
out some.  We kept Nero in a large bird cage until she was about
2 yrs old and too big to squeeze into all the tight places.  She
soon decided that she preferred the heating pad and growlight on
the table near a window anyway.  The other thing that helped big time
was providing a "house" with another heating pad, on a table
in a corner, with an opening just big enough for her to squeeze
into.  This seemed to satisfy her need to escape/hide.  The two
tables are connected by a parrot ladder, and I use parrot ladders
so she can climb up and down to the tables as well.  She seems very
happy with this arrangement, and rarely ventures off the tables
or out of the room when the door is open.  Hope this helps.


-- 
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Lee Fogel/\/\/\/\/\eVerything/\Is/\possiBlE/\/\/\/\/\lxfogel@srv.pacbell.com
____________________________________________________________________________
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: What to do about an incomplete shed?
From: <CBTCC@CUNYVM.BITNET>
Date: Tuesday, 5 Jan 1993 13:39:47 EST
Organization: City University of New York/ University Computer Center

Howdy.  My Christmas gift just shed for the first time.  She is a Sonoran
Desert Kingsnake (_Lampropeltis getulis splendida_), and unfortunately
it was an incomplete shed.  Some skin around her head is still on, including
one goggle.  Should I just leave this be?  Must happen in the wild
occassionally.  I don't want to pull her eye out or something sill like
that.  She has a water dish to soak, and a log to scratch on.  Anything I'm
missing?  Thanks.

Chris Thompson
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: RFEWSTER@SUVM.SYR.EDU
Subject: Re:red eyed treefrogs
Organization: Syracuse University
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 93 11:04:41 EST

  In a previous entry, the Genus of Red-eyed treefrogs was listed as Hyperolius
however, this genus is that of the African reed frogs, a small colorfull
group pretty much limited to Africa.  Red-eyed treefrogs are Agalychnis
callidryas, and are native to Cental America.
  My friend and I have had experience in keeping these animals, and between us
we had six animals.  We were lucky enough to have gotten a female.  In terms
of ease of care I would rate these animals as intermeadiate to maintain, and
next to impossible to breed.
  What makes them somewhat difficult to maintain in captivty, is that these
frogs are not as active as many other treefrogs, nor are they as accurate in
their attempts to capture food.  After some trial and error, we discovered that
the frogs did really well when provided with a 'dusk' period at the end of the
day.  We belive that their eyes are particularly sensitive to light, and are in
essence blinded by the bright light of 'day'.  Our frogs would regularly 'wake'
up around 9 or 10 o'clock, and would then prowl the cage, hunting.  Instead of
locating prey, and then launching themselves at it, they are more likely to
stalk the insects for a while first.
  One interesting method of concealment for these animals not used by many
native treefrogs, is that often they will sleep under the leaves in the tanks.
When we first obtained these animals, put them in their tank, and of course
went to look at them the next morning, we were aghast to find only three
animals!  Upon much closer examination, we were able to find the missing
animals under leaves, but the coloration was so close that it really took
quite a while to learn how to find them.
  I have seen some questions as to breeding them.  First of all, I have to say
that we were not able to produce any eggs.  We did see amplexus twice, but
that ws all.  I have talked with the curators of the Syrcuse Zoo, and they had
Red-eyes for a while, and did produce eggs on a regular basis.  They were never
able to get anny of the eggs to hatch, if the eggs were fertilized or not, they
don't know.  They got the frogs to lay by having the frogs exposed to mist
for periodic times during the day.  They no longer keep these frogs, due to
the diffuclty in breeding, and instead have switched to Poison arrow frogs.
In the same tank, they are getting these frogs to breed, and are raising
the young sucessfully.
  If anyone has any specific questions on anything else we have done with these
animals, feel free to drop a line!
                                              Bob Fewster
                                              RFEWSTER@SUVM.SYR.EDU
From: deb90@ccc.amdahl.com (David E Ben-Jamin)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Color vision in snakes?
Date: 7 Jan 93 17:02:21 GMT
Reply-To: deb90@JUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (David E Ben-Jamin)
Distribution: na
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

In article <1993Jan6.190722.22628@progress.com> gerard@progress.COM (Gerard Bras) writes:
>christ@sci.ccny.cuny.edu (Chris Thompson) writes:
>
>>Snakes
>>have very limited vision as we define it, and rely much more upon
>>the data gathered by the vomeronasal organ, which senses heat only.
>>They can (obviously) also detect ground vibrations from quite a ways
>>off.

>Further, only a few snakes have any sort of heat sensing organs,
>primarily viperid and boids.  As somebody else pointed out animal tissues
>are almost perfect radiators of IR regardless of pigmentation.
>
>Further, I believe that except for certain primitive species, tour
>statement that snakes have limited vision just doesn't stand scrutiny.
>Snakes, have highly evolved eye structures, capable of both focusing
>and dilation/contraction to control the amount of light admitted.
>In fact, it the means of focusing that is the one characteristic of 
>snakes which is totally unique from all other animals.  Lastly, I have
>plenty of first hand evidence that, at least in boids, vision works
>just fine.

I belive the PRIMARY sensory organ in NEARLY all snakes is the Jacobson's organ. 
As is the case in all animal groups, there are exceptions (vipers and boids my use
the thermoreceptors more at night). The same exceptions hold true for vision. 
Subterranean snakes see little more than light/dark (if even that). The Asian
Vine Snake (A. nasuta - might not be current nomenclature), however, has binocular
(3-D) vision - just like humans! If you've ever owned one, you know that their 
striking accuracy is amazing. 

>>(Help!  I've fallen and I can't reach my beer!)

Bummer!

--DaviD

-- 


I don't need a .sig.
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: rosen@news.cis.ohio-state.edu (jeffrey m rosen)
Subject: two baby igs for sale
Organization: The Ohio State University Department of Computer and Information Science
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 21:51:27 GMT

I have two baby (about 6 months old) green iguanas for sale.  Both have their
own 30 gallon tanks with lids and many extras.  Please leave me mail if
you are interested in one or both.  Thanks,

Jeff Rosen (Rosen@CIS@ohio-state.edu)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: mcovingt@aisun3.ai.uga.edu (Michael Covington)
Subject: Re: Tailbreak!
Organization: AI Programs, University of Georgia, Athens
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 00:36:19 GMT

When any of my anoles breaks its tail I put a big dab of antibiotic
ointment on the break.  It doesn't hurt, although I don't have any data
to prove it actually helps.

-- 
:-  Michael A. Covington     internet mcovingt@uga.cc.uga.edu :    *****
:-  Artificial Intelligence Programs       phone 706 542-0358 :  *********
:-  The University of Georgia                fax 706 542-0349 :   *  *  *
:-  Athens, Georgia 30602-7415 U.S.A.     amateur radio N4TMI :  ** *** **
From: donb@igor.tamri.com (Don Baldwin)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Breeder comments
Date: 8 Jan 93 02:07:21 GMT
Organization: TOSHIBA America MRI, South San Francisco, CA

From: Kit Cosper <cosper@seq.uncwil.edu>

Subject: Re: Breeders' list

Just some more data for you to consider;

Typically, when shipping through the airlines, the minimum
freight charge covers the first 100lbs.  So a 1 oz package
and a 100 lb package cost the same.  Additional weight is
also charged on a price per block basis.  After the first hundred
some airlines break it down into 50 lb units, others stick with
100 lb units.  Sometimes this can be worked to your advantage,
especially if there are several people in an area looking to
get something from the same breeder.

Glades Herp-
        I have had many thousands of dollars worth of transactions
        with them over the last 5 years.  Nothing can be said except
        everything is top notch.  You will pay a bit more, but the
        old saying "You get what you pay for" has never been more
        suitable.  Bill Love is one of the VERY few people I will
        purchase from sight-unseen.

Crutchfield-
        I enjoy his list as much as anyone, but it is largely a work
        of fiction.  A friend and/or I have been present no less than 5 times
        over the last 8 years  when the list got back from the printer.
        In EVERY case 99.9% of the rare items were "already gone" 100%
        of the time.  Also be careful having him ship something.  I will
        only buy from him if I can visit or a close friend is visiting.


Eugene Bessette/Ophiological Services-
        Nice guy in Archer, Fla. (Just outside Gainesville).  He and
        Wayne Hill used to hang out together a bit.  He produces
        excellent animals, mostly boids, some colubrids.  I have a
        card SOMEWHERE with his address and number.......
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: gerard@progress.COM (Gerard Bras)
Subject: Re: Color vision in snakes?
Organization: Progress Software Corp.
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 19:44:54 GMT

deb90@ccc.amdahl.com (David E Ben-Jamin) writes:

>I belive the PRIMARY sensory organ in NEARLY all snakes is the Jacobson's organ. 
>As is the case in all animal groups, there are exceptions (vipers and boids my use
>the thermoreceptors more at night). The same exceptions hold true for vision. 
>Subterranean snakes see little more than light/dark (if even that). The Asian
>Vine Snake (A. nasuta - might not be current nomenclature), however, has binocular
>(3-D) vision - just like humans! If you've ever owned one, you know that their 
>striking accuracy is amazing. 


Here's my take:

I don't know from Vine Snakes but everything else here is OK.  Direct observation
leads me to believe that while the olfactory sense is dominant for snakes they
are a little more complex than the first sentence lets on.  Like many other 
critters, they use a *combination* of sensory input.  At close range vision
is pretty useful, for detecting warm-bloods at night IR vision is handy,
for finding the lairs and spoors of dinner items you can't beat good olfaction.
Even in one individual at any moment in time, it is likely to be employing
all of it's senses at the same time, but to varying degrees.

As far as I know all snakes have an amazingly well developed sense of smell.  Not
only is the receptor organ well developed but the tongue is designed specifically
to deliver air samples onto the organ's surface.  Most snakes have pretty good vision,
some are blind, others have really excellent vision.  There is a some variety
in eye configuration depending on whether the animal in nocturnal (slit pupils)
versus diurnal (round pupils).  Just like mammals.  Only a minority of snake species
show any evidence of thermoreceptors.   They all seem to have rather sensitive skin
and are pretty good at feeling movement around them.a

From direct observation on various boids I can attest that they follow motion with
thier eyeballs.  It is possible to see the pupil moving around in the orbit as
you move around a python, so there is little doubt that it is watching.  This
behavior leads me to believe that at least some useful input is being gathered. 

It is not possible to make universal statements which are both true and convey
useful information about snakes than it is about any other broad class of
animals.  It is counterproductive to try to oversimplify what we don't understand.
Last but not least, a lot of this is rather poorly researched, and the dissemination
of the results of any rfesearch into "common knowledge" is nearly nil.


cheers,
gerard
From: nvonstein@memstvx1.memst.edu
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: are chameleons (very) difficult?
Date: 4 Jan 93 12:44:49 -0600
Organization: Memphis State University

In article <1993Jan4.144937.2105@Princeton.EDU>, brett@surfpix.princeton.edu (Brett Borowski) writes:
> There are chaemleons and there are chameleons.
> "American Chameleons" are small, cheap ($3-4), and not really 
> chameleons--they are anoles.  I don't think they're too tough
> to keep, but I'm sure plenty have died in the hands of 
> unexperienced owners....
> 
> Real chameleons, (the "old world" kind), with their socketed eyes,
> extremely long tounge, and horns (0-3, I think), are VERY difficult
> to keep according to one of the books I've read.  I don't remember
> what the book was, but you didn't have to read into it to get the
> picture.  It bluntly stated that chameleons should be "left alone."
> And that many are injured because people use tongs to catch them and
> that if one sees a chameleon in a store, it will almost surely be
> dead in a few weeks.
> 
> Brett
> 
> -- 
> brett@surfpix.princeton.edu		(Finger for more info...)

From what I understand from the herpetologists at our zoo, chameleons are so shy
that the people who work with them make every possible attempt to not even make
eye contact with them.  The St. Louis zoo, who has had a lot of success with
chameleons, passed this info on to us.  We (Memphis Zoo) are beginning to have good luck with
the Panther chameleons because of this advice.  These guys are not on exhibit
and are separated in gallon glass jars in a place that is relatively isolated. 
All chameleons may not be this shy, but when I had the opportunity to get a
chameleon, I chose not to because I knew I wouldn't be able to stay away from
it.  I think they are wonderful.

Nancy
From: dlopata@stat.ufl.edu (David Lopata)
Subject: Chilean Dwarf Tegu (Sorry If Repeat)
Keywords: Chilean Dwarf Tegu
Reply-To: dlopata@stat.ufl.edu (David Lopata)
Organization: U of Florida. Statistics Dept.
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 93 14:20:55 GMT

...

	Sorry if this is a repeat.  The message didn't seem to post last
time, so I don't know if the news feed here is bunged, or what.

	I recently aquired a young Chilean Dwarf Tegu.  He's currently
residing in a 20 gallon (high) tank, with newspaper lining, a hot rock, a
hide box, and a water bowl.  The temperature (maintained by a space heater
outside the tank) stays at roughly 90 degrees in the day, dropping to
78 or so in the evening.  He's in a 14/10 light/dark cycle.

	My care references are currently limited.  This fellow is a pet store
replacement for a Savanna I purchased that died immediately after I brought
him home.

	So far, all seems well.  He ate three jumbo butter worms the day
before yesterday, and I expect he'll chow on some tonight.

	Anyway, I was wondering if there was a care sheet available for
these guys.  I can't find any books on them around here.  I'm currently using
the Savanna book as a care resource, as the pet store said the care methods
should be the same.  However, the Tegu seems more adapted to climbing, 
etcetera, so I'm guessing there are some care differences and cage/ground
medium preferences to consider.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
David C. Lopata                                          dlopata@stat.ufl.edu
System Manager, Dept. of Statistics                           234A Floyd Hall
"Impeach Clinton!"                                     (904)392-1941 Ext. 233
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: stevet@oakhill.sps.mot.com (Steve Turner)
Subject: Can snake-owners get homeowners insurance?
Organization: Motorola Inc., Austin, Texas
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 16:11:09 GMT

I've been trying to get some renter's insurance for my
apartment, but was surprised to learn that most, if not
all, insurance companies consider snakes too great a libility 
to insure.  I've been turned town by no fewer than 6 agents
so far because I have 2 captive boas (in locked cages).

The explanations I got from agents were along these lines:

  "what if they get loose and kill/bite someone"

  "what if one of your guests has a heart attack while
     looking at them"

  "what if they bite the firemen?"

  (and other irrational nonsense...)   

If you keep snakes *and* have insurance, please refer me to
your insurance company.  Note that I don't want to lie about
my pets, but if they don't explicitly ask, then that should 
be fair game, right? 

Thanks in advance for any help.  


-- 
 Steve Turner                     Motorola, Inc.
 stevet@risc.sps.mot.com          RISC Design Automation
 512.891.8728                     Austin, TX
From: tracer@carson.u.washington.edu (David P. Tracer)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Mites
Date: 11 Jan 1993 23:12:38 GMT
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
NNTP-Posting-Host: carson.u.washington.edu
Keywords: creepy-crawlies

In article <6206@rosie.NeXT.COM> Lyle_Scheer@NeXT.com (Lyle Scheer) writes:
>In article <1993Jan8.020519.16906@igor.tamri.com> donb@igor.tamri.com (Don  
>Baldwin) writes:
>
>(from the PARASITES AND DISEASE section about mites)
>
>> Putting a two inch square piece of a Shell No-Pest Strip or
>> equivalent (active ingredient = 2,2-dichlorovinyl dimethyl phosphate) in the
>> snake cage over night kills the mites.
>
>I had heard that this stuff is no longer available.  Am I correct?  Any good  
>alternatives?
>

As others have posted, No-Pest Strips CAN still be had, but one needs to
use them with care because direct contact between your herps and the NPS
can fry their nerves (i.e., do irreparable neurological damage).

You asked about alternatives, so I'll list just 2 that either I or
acquaintances had success with:

-Chlorvos (tradename "Neguvon"):  This is a compound related to dichlorvos
(No-Pest Strip) except that it is about 100 times less toxic to herps (and
mammals) but equally toxic to mites.  Individuals that use this dilute it
according to instructions on the bottle and spray it directly on the cage
AND herp.  (Disclaimer: I've never used this personally, but I know many
people in my local herp society who have.  To date I've heard of lots of
dead mites and no injurious results to any herp).  Availability:  Sold at
farm stores (sold as a treatment for mites/flies on livestock).

-Permethrin (tradename: "NIX"):  I have used this one on 2 herps that
came in with mites and all I can say is, IT'S FANTASTIC.  Permethrin is a
compound related to the pyrethrins (naturally occurring insecticides in
plants)  except that this particular one is synthetic and does not occur
in nature.  It was formulated specifically to have low toxicity (again,
except to mites) and to also KILL MITE EGGS!  Therefore, theoretically one
can wipe out a whole mite infestation with 1 treatment (though I generally
treat 3 times - every 72 hrs.- for a bad infestation).  I generally treat
the herp as follows:  First I put NIX on my wet hands and allow the
infested herp (I've only treated snakes) to crawl through my partially
closed hands, thus getting completely covered in a thin layer of the
stuff.  I will also dab carefully under the "chin" and on the top of the
head.  I leave it on for 3-5 minutes (but no longer) and then hold the
snake under running water to rinse it off.  Watch the NIX and mites go
down the drain.  The cage is treated by mixing 1 oz. of NIX to 3/4 gal. of
water and spraying down the inside of the cage (of course remove the water
dish first).  I allow the cage to dry but do not rinse it out, so dried
NIX remains on the cage. Voila!  Availability: NIX is sold in your local
pharmacy as a treatment for head lice in children.  The 2 bottle "family
pack" is the most economical way to buy it.

Happy Mite Killing!

-David
  
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: tmohler+@cs.cmu.edu (Tim Mohler)
Subject: Re: The Makeup of A Snake's Housing...
Organization: School of Computer Science, Carnegie Mellon
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 18:55:58 GMT

In article <C0C9K3.HI8@news.iastate.edu> pholland@iastate.edu (Paul J Hollander) writes:
>My Burmese were eating 1-3 full grown rats (.75 pound or bigger) every week 
>at that size.  Another couple of feet longer, and they will be eating
>rabbits and chickens.  They are already big enough to eat pigeons.

Ok. Evidenced by several posts about this, I underestimated largish Burmese's
eating abilities...

>less than rats, at least mine did. However, the gerbils were realatively
>monogamous and didn't produce babies as fast or as often as the rats.

Yah - and gerbils fight when you bring in a new pair of them. They don't eat
their babies, though. They do seem to be monogamous, worse luck for me.
I was hoping to have a stud-gerbil and about 6 females, but no such luck.

On the other hand, they are cuter than hell. Which gives some people some problems.

"How can you raise them to DIE like that? They are SOOOO CUUUUTE."

Tim
From: nathan@charles.ucdavis.edu (Nathan Rollins)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Snake cohabitation
Date: 7 Jan 93 22:52:45 GMT
Organization: Department of Music, UCDavis
Originator: nathan@charles.ucdavis.edu


  Would there be any problems in keeping a 4-foot-seven Burmese python
and a 5-foot red-tail boa together in one cage, provided that they
were separated for feeding times?

 -Otter not Nathan
From: Lyle_Scheer@NeXT.com (Lyle Scheer)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Snake care sheet
Date: 11 Jan 93 18:19:08 GMT
Reply-To: Lyle_Scheer@NeXT.com (Lyle Scheer)

In article <1993Jan8.020519.16906@igor.tamri.com> donb@igor.tamri.com (Don  
Baldwin) writes:

(from the PARASITES AND DISEASE section about mites)

> Putting a two inch square piece of a Shell No-Pest Strip or
> equivalent (active ingredient = 2,2-dichlorovinyl dimethyl phosphate) in the
> snake cage over night kills the mites.

I had heard that this stuff is no longer available.  Am I correct?  Any good  
alternatives?

--
                             E-Mail (NeXTmail accepted): Lyle_Scheer@NeXT.com
                    "Character is what you are in the dark." -Buckaroo Banzai
"A little nonsense now and then, is relished by the wisest men." -Willy Wonka
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: mcovingt@aisun3.ai.uga.edu (Michael Covington)
Subject: Baby turtle law ?
Organization: AI Programs, University of Georgia, Athens
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 01:08:19 GMT

Can someone give me the details of the law or regulation that forbids
the sale of turtles under 4" long in the USA?

Is it a law, or a Dept. of Agriculture regulation, or what?

Exactly what does it forbid?

The reason I ask is that if all goes well, I'm going to have lots of
baby box turtles and pond sliders this summer.

-- 
:-  Michael A. Covington     internet mcovingt@uga.cc.uga.edu :    *****
:-  Artificial Intelligence Programs       phone 706 542-0358 :  *********
:-  The University of Georgia                fax 706 542-0349 :   *  *  *
:-  Athens, Georgia 30602-7415 U.S.A.     amateur radio N4TMI :  ** *** **
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp