From: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Recommendations on Carb R
Date: 16 Dec 92 23:27:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Ye Olde Bailey BBS - Houston, TX - 713-520-1569
Reply-To: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 

  >>>Subject: Recommendations on Carb Rebuild? >>>Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992
  02:04:47 GMT

CO>>>Hello:

CO>>>I just wanted to thank all those who helped me with my "check
  >>>engine" light on my Olds Cutlass Cierra.  Unfortunately, it ended
  >>>up costing me $220 because I didn't have the time or the equipment
  >>>to track the problem down.  He also replaced a motor mount and fixed
  >>>a couple of bad vacuum lines.

CO>>>I turns out that the error code #53 is not what anyone mentioned.  In
  >>>fact, the Haynes manual says that it's an overcharge problem.  This
  >>>is also incorrect.  It turned out to be an error for the EGR system
  >>>and the fix was to replace the EGR solenoid.

CO>>>The only problem now is that he mentioned that it was running crappy
  >>>when it was cold because the carb is about ready for a rebuild.  The
  >>>diagnostic checker said that the Computer is setting the dwell at 3
  >>>degrees (I thought dwell is measured in impedance, eg. ohms?).  Anyway,
  >>>he said that means that it's running really lean because everything
  >>>is getting clogged up inside.  He also said that some choke dashpot
  >>>thingy on the left side of the carb is totally inoperable as well.

CO>>>Olds sells the kits to fix the carbs and I also found a Haynes manual for
  >>>my car.  The mechanic said that it wouldn't be a good idea for me to rebui
  >>>it because I didn't have the proper equipment.  He said that parts of the
  >>>carb are electronically controlled and adjusted.  My first reaction is
  >>>"bologna", but perhaps some of you may know if this is a really nasty
  >>>job.  Is the mechanic full of it, or should I take it in?

CO>>>Cutlass Cierra 1984 V6 (2 bbl. carb) approx. 93,800 miles.

CO>>>Thanks in advance.

CO>>>-Clint
Hi,
        I left you note telling you it was probably egr, guess you
        didn't see it.
        The tech is right, you need special tools to make the necessary
        adjustments to the internals of the carb. The vacuum break you
        can do yourself. BTW, this part will cause rich running and
        dieing just after startup when cold. It's purpose is to JUST
        CRACK open the choke plate after the car starts. And one other
        thing...are there any wires attached to the gasket UNDER the
        carb? If so then you can count on an extra $50-$80 to replace
        the HEATER GRID gasket, as a base gasket is mandatory when carb
        is removed.
        The mixture control is measured in dwell(as in point dwell).The
        dwell is the LENGHT of time that the mixture needles are
        energized and pulled down. A lower dwell reading indicates that
        computer is keeping needles out longer, thus enriching the
        mixture. Dwell varies from about 5-60 degrees. optimum reading
        is usually between 30-40. You can use a regular dwell meter set
        on the SIX cylinder scale to measure dwell from a small GREEN
        lead near the carb.
        Enough rambling...
                                                later,
                                                        Don


 * SLMR 2.1a * I put spot remover on my dog....Spots gone!
                                      
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