HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 10:42:42 EST
From: <DAB134@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
Subject: Ford Flatheads (little story)

Hello!
      Nothing of dire importance here, I just wanted to share a little
flathead story with those who are interested in these early-era draggers.
A buddy of mine recently finished a resto on a '54 Crown Victoria W/ the
legendary 221 V8 1V downdraft. This beauty is all dressed up with someplace
to go (and in a hurry, too!!) It'll run around 110 mph top speed. Many of
you may say they've seen hotter engines on Sesamie (sp?) Street, but I
 **personally** think that's pretty damn good for a big car like that!!
                                    HAPPY MOTORING,
                                                 Dave
P.S.
    It sounds like a real ANIMAL too!! (VAROOOOOOOM!!!)

     First!!!!
     On!!!!
     Race!!!!
     Day!!!!
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: hemphill@news.weeg.uiowa.edu (Lawrence Hemphill)
Subject: Plymouth Question
Summary: plymouth question
Keywords: Duster Console
Organization: University of Iowa, Iowa City, IA, USA
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 16:28:14 GMT

I have a 1970 Plymouth Duster, 340 with a 4 barrel, a four on the floor and 
the 8 3/4 locking dropout rear end.  I decided that I liked the original ralley
rims and have decided to use them again.  This has always been a pain because
of the smaller bolt pattern that Chrysler used about that time.  Anyway, 
since I am kind of going for that more stock look, I am kind of curious about 
wether or not a console was available for that year of Duster.  I know that
Challengers had them, but I have seen a 1 or 2 Dusters that had them and I
would like to know if these were cases where someone 'made them fit' or if
they were really an option.  Also, since I'm gonna use the ralley rims again,
i might be able to be talked into selling my Cragar S/S rims if there was
anyone looking for them for a small bolt pattern chrysler product.
 
Lawrence Hemphill
lawrence-hemphill@uiowa.edu

-- 
|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Lawrence R. Hemphill        User Consultant          Weeg Computing Center |
| University of Iowa          Iowa City, Iowa 52242    Phone: 319-335-5530   |
| hemphill@umaxc.weeg.uiowa.edu        or              awclrh@uiamvs.bitnet  |
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: gchen@sloth.Reed.Edu (Mark Aranedes Jin'lewood Chen)
Subject: Re: quality paint job
Organization: Reed College, Portland, OR
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1992 02:59:25 GMT
Distribution: usa

In article <1#41gz=@rpi.edu> schotk@marcus.its.rpi.edu (Kevin Douglas  
Schott) writes:
> Say I wanted a *very* nice paint job on a relatively small part
> (for example, motorcycle gas tank or frame, single fender, etc.).
> Is it possible to do the job myself or is it best to take it to a
> shop?  I'm relatively adventuresome and do ok with a wrench, but
> I don't have big $$ to put out for equipment.  Is $$ (i.e. high $
> paint and equipment) the biggest factor in a nice finish or is skill
> and patients?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
i'd say definitely skill and patience but the more money you have the  
better as well.
if you wanted to be dirt cheap you could come up with a prett good design  
with only using canned spray paint.
it depends how far you're willing to go.   I DO suggest trying whatever  
way you decide on a sheet of scrap metal first or something
mark
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: decicr@bray1b.its.rpi.edu (Richard A. Decicca)
Subject: Re: '87 Trans Am Modifications
Reply-To: decicr@rpi.edu
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY.
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 06:50:16 GMT

The 1970 454 was not rated at a measly 360 hp it was more like 460hp, I have the manuals to prove it.
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: mshar@mentor.cc.purdue.edu (Mike Mshar)
Subject: Re: HEELLLLLPPPP!!!!!
Summary: Maybe I can take a crack at this.
Organization: Purdue University Computing Center
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 06:10:09 GMT


First off, fantastic group. Thanks to those responsible for its creation.
I hope that I can help somebody on this group, as I am sure that some day
one of you will help me.

Anyway, on with the show...

You said in your article that you eliminated the carburetor. Coming from
somebody who builds Rochesters, this is good, because it eliminates a lot
of possibilities.

I have one thing you might want to check.

Check each and every one of your vacuum lines, especially the one that goes
down to the transmission. One time that line came loose on my brother`s
car, and it took me forever to find it. If you can eliminate ALL vacuum
lines as possibilities, then maybe look into the EGR valve, a bad rebuild,
or something else. 

BTW the fastest way to check the vacuum line system is to disconnect each
line one at a time from the carb or intake. Once disconnected, plug the
port and see if the engine idle quality improves any. It should not take
long, and it eliminates a lot of possible sources of rough running and
idling.

I hope I get lucky and figure this out, but if not, good luck!

Ain`t cars a bitch sometimes??

Mike
-- 
|       Michael G. Mshar        | My Life-Long Goal: To keep common sense    |
|   mmshar@mn.ecn.purdue.edu    | alive and keep the idiots from taking over.|
|  mshar@mentor.cc.purdue.edu   |     \\President, Nice Guys Anonymous//     |
|____>>> United States Steel, Mechanical Engineer, Technical Services <<<____|

-- 
|       Michael G. Mshar        | My Life-Long Goal: To keep common sense    |
|   mmshar@mn.ecn.purdue.edu    | alive and keep the idiots from taking over.|
|  mshar@mentor.cc.purdue.edu   |     \\President, Nice Guys Anonymous//     |
|____>>> United States Steel, Mechanical Engineer, Technical Services <<<____|
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: nasiatka@anhep3.anl.gov (Jim Wylde)
Subject: Re: Welding different metals for headers?
Organization: Argonne National Laboratory, Argonne, Illinois
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 22:29:56 GMT

>(James W. Swonger) writes:
>One potential problem is poor adhesion/penetration to the stainless. The
>MIG operates (usually) in the stick-and-break mode, which tends to give a
>high deposition rate and low penetration. Stainless may have much different 
>characteristics from the adjacent mild steel.

> The weld will not be corrosion-resistant. I don't think anyone makes
>stainless MIG wire, though I've been alleged to have been wrong before.
>This is one reason why MIGs are not used to weld stainless - no point 
>in using stainless ifthe weld's going to rot.

They do make stainless rods.  You'd have to use it if your gonna do this
type of weld.  You wanna watch out for the different thermal expansion
rates of the stainless and carbon steel.  I'd try putting on some
sort of chill to remove excess heat too...

Oh, whoops!  MIG not TIG!  You're right.  You gotta TIG it if your gonna
weld stainless.  Shoulda read better!  Personally, for the extra couple
of bucks, I'd just make the whole assembly outta stainless.  It ain't
that much more expensive.  If your gonna spend that much on time, mat'l
and labor, why not do it up right....

Jim
From: avery@xanadu.ucsb.edu (Avery Juan)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
Subject: 928
Summary: 928
Date: 17 Nov 92 16:20:59 GMT

I own a 1979 Porsche 928 and I would like to increase its performance.  Also
update the look with newer chrome wheels.  

I have modified my 928 by converting it to a convertable.  It looks great but
the craftmanship isn't the best.  The front suspension is lowered and wheel
spacers are on the rears.

I ran out of money quick doing all this and now I want to improve the perfor-
mance.  Does anyone knows how to get more horsepower from this engine without
spending a lot of cash?  Also it is hard to find chrome wheel without spending
more than $3500 are there any out there for sale?

Avery Juan
avery.ece.ucsb.edu

.
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: jmiller@brew.asteroids (Jeff J. Miller)
Subject: Welding different metals for headers?
Reply-To: jmiller@network.com
Organization: Network Systems Corporation
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 92 14:35:02 GMT

I've been planing to make some custom headers using stainless
pipes going into a regular steel collector.  I plan to use a
MIG to weld everything together but I wonder what kind of problems
I might expect by using the two different types of metals.

Anybody have any experience with this?

Jeff
--
Jeff Miller                 Network Systems Corporation
Internetwork Group          7600 Boone Avenue North
jmiller@network.com         Minneapolis MN 55428   (612)424-4888

Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: eric@eric_t.b23b.ingr.com (Eric Thompson)
Subject: Re: Edelbrock Intake
Organization: Intergraph Corporation, Huntsville, AL.
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 14:40:54 GMT

Differences in Performer intake as opposed to Torker II
(had Torker II on my boat, BB Chevy, Comp Cams 280, 850
Holley, now run Performer intake):

The Torker intake doesn't idle well and is gutless below
about 2500-3000 rpm.  Designed to make good power up to
7000-7500 rpm though.  Milage sucks.

The Performer idles well and makes good low rpm power;
peters out about 6000 like you said (and Edelbrock advertises).
Better milage.

Running 3.08 gears with what is effectively a three speed
transmission in a heavy truck with a small carb, the Performer
is the way to go.
-- 
    **********************************************************
    *	NAESER'S LAW:					     *
    *	  You can make it foolproof, but you can't make it   *
    *	  damn foolproof.				     *
    **********************************************************

	Eric Thompson		X8514		MS: LR23B1
	    UUCP:  uunet!ingr!b23b!eric_t!eric
	INTERNET:  eric@eric_t.b23b.ingr.com
From: SYSOP@HEATHER.hanse.de (Michael Grube)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
Distribution: world
Subject: GMC truck steering
Date: 16 Nov 92 19:16:42 +0100
Organization: Heather Heart Mailbox, Germany
X-Version: UUCPfZ V2.9a

Howdy!

I have a '56 GMC pickup truck which I'm currently preparing for the
german safety inspection. The former owner installed a Grant steering
wheel with '13 diameter. This wheel is simply too small to give the
truck a good handling, besides that, the safety inspector sure won't
like it.

So I'm planning to install a larger steering wheel, more like 16 or 17
inch. But over here, this turns out to be difficult. Everything is metric,
so I can't just go to the local yard and pull me a wheel. Things get even
more difficult, since I don't like this modern looks, I'd like to have
sumptin' from the fourties or fifties, maybe like the 40's Chrysler  or
early fifties Buick wheels.

What I need to know is :

  - Is the steering wheel mount in the '56 GMC/Chevy trucks unique or
    are there wheels from other cars/years/makes which would fit without
    modification?

Any help appreciated!

  Mike


-- 
:- '66 Dodge Polara                                       '56 GMC P/U truck -:
:- Michael Grube, Huetzeler Damm 32, DW-3045 Bispingen, voice +49-5194-1526 -:

Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: scl7375@ritvax.isc.rit.edu (Liddle)
Subject: 301 manifold
Reply-To: scl7375@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 06:15:04 GMT

Hey guys, 
  It's me again! I have another snag with my 301... I've been looking around
for a performance manifold for it, and Noone seems to make them.. What I'd like
to know is, does anyone know where I could get one? If not, WHat things can be
done to a stock manifold to make it flow better, etc.? just wondering,
					Thanx,
					 Liddle
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: mark@spike.b8.ingr.com (Mark Lanier)
Subject: Pontiac engines
Keywords: Not bad!
Organization: Intergraph
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 17:34:28 GMT


Most any engine can benefit from improved timing, intake/exaust, and 
camming. Given that, there's no reason that the 301 cannot be made to 
make decent power. It is a Pontiac afterall :)  The key is not to make
the mistake that bigger is better. Chose components that are 
reasonable. Such as: a Preformer intake  - not a torker II, a Holley 
600 - not a 750, Competition Cam (OR equiv) 265  - not a 280. also things 
like curve kits, headers, mild head porting, rearend gears all add 
to the final goal 
-- performance. 

Get a copy of High Performance Pontiac magazine. Its published 
bi-monthly and may be hard to find. It contins somewhat decent 
articles from time to time on engine builds. 

Also:

H.O. Racing    - all types of Pontiac engine/susp parts.
can't find ph num

Nunzi's    - mostly engine stuff   718 837 1135


Mark
mark@spike.b8.ingr.com
From: st1q9@rosie.uh.edu (Devine, Della M)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
Subject: Difference of Edelbrock Intake
Date: 16 Nov 1992 22:50 CST
Organization: University of Houston
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: rosie.uh.edu
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    

   A good friend of mine just built me an engine and intalled it for
me last week and man does it run!!!! The question i would like
to ask is that i bought an Edelbrock Performer intake on a suggestion
by another friend and the guy that built my motor was thinking i was to
get a torquer 2 not a performer.  Now, the guy that suggested i get
the performer said the performer is geared more towards low end torque
and power and that the Torquer 2 is geared more towards high end torque
and power.  The truck runs like a scalded ape and suprised the $%!& outta
me.  But i have noticed that it kinda gives up a little at about
600-6500 rpm.  I'm running a .272 lift/ .454 duration (average intake
and exaust), 350 bored .030 over, .010 under crank, about 9.0
compression, polished, ported and matched heads (shaved to match gaskets)
and a semi stock holley 550 or 650 (can't remember...he built it!)
I run it on 89 octane and use 93 octane once every 5 tank fulls...
(also engine builders suggestion).  I have 29x15.50 mickey thompson
street treads with a 3.08 rearend (for semi-economy and cruising).
I shift with a stock 4speed granny gear (chevy-> low,1,2,3,R)
   Would this setup benefit from the torquer two intake?  Or would
it just hurt my semi-economy ('bout 14-15 mpg depending on how i
spin tires in town *8-P..)?  I drive this truck (full size blazer 
slammed 9") to school everyday about 40 miles round trip and
don't wanna have to buy three tanks a week (already get two a week)
as i work for the U and don't make too much.

    Has anybody had any experience in swapping a performer for the
torquer 2?  If so, what differences did you notice and did you
like it? I mean were there any tradeoffs with performance/lowend/highend?

                         Thanx
                         William C. Devine, II
reply to:
         Devine@pvhep.pvamu.edu
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: robb@ais.org (Robert Gonyer)
Subject: Mustang II swap help
Organization: UMCC
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 00:49:07 GMT


Hi.  I have a 1978 Mustang II.  Currently it has a 2.3L engine.  Since
the body is immaculate, and a fastback, I would like to swap a 302 into it.
I realize the front suspension will have to change.  Are stiffer springs
going to suffice?  The engine we are building will be somewhere in the
neighborhood of 300 horses.  Also, it is a 4 speed.  I would rather keep it 
that way, but I have heard that the only tranny that will fit in this
car and also hold up to the added power is a C4 built.  Is this true?
Any comments and suggestions are welcome.  Im also looking at upgrading
the brakes to disc brakes from a junkyard car.  How hard is this to do?
Suggestions for type of donor car and things to watch out for are also welcome.
Thanks...
-Robb

-- 
/~~~~~~///~|~~~~~~~~~* 5.0 Ford Mustang II *~~~~~~~|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~\
\  \\\///  |  Stillwater Design-Pioneer-Infinity   |                         /
/   \XX/   |   Aiwa-Cerwin Vega!-Sherwood-Technics | robb@141.211.206.16    /
\__Amiga!__|_______________________________________|_______________________/
From: 2huxsilent@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
Subject: Re: '87 Trans Am Modifications
Date: 23 Nov 92 14:10:49 CST
Organization: University of Kansas Academic Computing Services

OOPS My attempt at using the e-mail word processor did not work as expected. 
The posting about 'gross' and 'net' hp should have started as follows: The 1970
454 may have been rated at 460 hp but I think you will find this is the 'gross'
rating.
Thank you and excuse the error (we all have to learn sometime).

Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: ausdal@ece.scarolina.edu (Thi Van Ausdal)
Subject: Re: Car Storage
Organization: USC  Department of Computer Science
Date: 19 Nov 92 15:00:26 GMT

nasiatka@anhep3.anl.gov writes:

>In article <1992Nov14.211516.12061@ultb.isc.rit.edu> scl7375@ritvax.isc.rit.edu writes:

>>I'm interested in how to store a car too, I think that because the winter
>>months are coming up, it would be appropriate to post your ideas here...

>Well, what I usually do, is a) I make sure it's in a garage
>with some sort of cover (blankets work) to keep the dust
>and misc. scratches off.  b) I completely change oil, 
>c) I fog the engine down - that's where you have the engine
>running with the air cleaner off, and proceed to pour a quart
>of oil down the carb's throught till it bogs down and dies.
>This fills the cylinders with oil, and prevents possible 
>corrosion and such.  You need to dump gas down the throught
>in the spring when you start it though, and it smokes like
>a sonufabitch.

>Jim

	Great idea!  I never thought of such. That would work great.  And it 
IS a concern (internal rusting of the motor) as we had a car which sat up 
(inadvertantly, but when you've got 4 cars and two drivers, some of them sit)
for about 18 mos. and when we fired it up later it turned out to have crud
and corruption inside, 'cause later on the car needed a valve job and rings.
Fortunately, that was after we sold it.  Caveat emptor.  The iron valve seats
rusted on the valves which were open and the cylinders walls rusted up a bit
both above and below the cylinders.  What a shame.  Had we known to do this
trick, we could have saved the motor a lot of ageing.  
	On a fuel-injected car, you can even rev it and pull the fuel pump
relay/fuse as the oil is added... Some cars such BMWs, Mercedes, etc, with
Bosch, and those TPI V8s can't have oil "poured in" easily like on a 
carburetted engine, so spraying in some aerosol lube (wouldn't silicon 
or white lithium grease work?) where you pulled off a vacuum line port at
the manifold would work, too.

	My two cents...

	TRV.
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: mshar@mentor.cc.purdue.edu (Mike Mshar)
Subject: Re: Torque measurement??????
Keywords: HELP!
Organization: Purdue University Computing Center
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 17:35:56 GMT

> vpopesc@opus.uucp (Valentin Popescu) writes:
>> cgranfel@lesti.hut.fi (Peter"Pede" Granfelt) writes:
>>Yeah, U guessed it..... I need some help!
>>I'm a big fan of American hot rods, but I'm somewhat confused...
>>In America power is measured in HP, just like in Europe.
>>But when it comes to torque, the problems amass....
>>Now my question is: How many newtonmetres (Nm) is one lb-ft??????

>   1 N-m = .7375622 lb-ft       |       1 lb-ft = 1.355818 N-m

I have just looked up the conversions in a thermodynamics tables book, and
these appear to be correct. The author had asked for confirmation, and this
is it.

Happy hot-rodding!!!

Mike
-- 
|       Michael G. Mshar        | My Life-Long Goal: To keep common sense    |
|   mmshar@mn.ecn.purdue.edu    | alive and keep the idiots from taking over.|
|  mshar@mentor.cc.purdue.edu   |     \\President, Nice Guys Anonymous//     |
|____>>> United States Steel, Mechanical Engineer, Technical Services <<<____|
From: nasiatka@anhep3.anl.gov (Jim Wylde)
Subject: Re: HEELLLLLPPPP!!!!!
Organization: Argonne National Laboratory, Argonne, Illinois
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 16:32:05 GMT

Well.... I finally got it....

Ready???  Yer not gonna believe it.  I finally got so frickin' 
disgusted with this project (mostly cuz my antique caddy doesn't
go out in the winter) so I called one of my local hot-rod shoppes.

They had a nice man with a nice tow truck come and take my @#!!#%
car away, and the next day it was fixed!

Guess.

I made two minor mistakes that added up to a major one.  First,
because all my experience has been with buick and Caddys where you
don't have to adjust lifter lash, I put the rockers back on where 
I got them off from ( x number of turns in...)  only trick is I
put on different heads.  They were a bit tooo tight and screwed the
valve timing up.  No real problem, if I coulda got the motor running
long enough to remember that I had to play with it.  Second, I
bought a "stock" chevy 350 cam from Crane.  I figured it was "stock"
and this ain't a serious hot rod project, so I ain't gonna bother
to check the lift and duration and just put it in.  Crane's idea
of a "stock" cam is one that has a LOT more lift and duration than
GM's.

Sooo, I had the rockers WAYYYYY to tight now, and my valves were
alll over the place!  They were opening and closing in no relation
to what the engine needed.  So, after a coupla hours of monkeying
around and replacing some push rods (owwwwwww!!!) it runs like a 
top.  

Well, now I know.  Nobody ever said education was cheap....

Thanx for all the help everybody offered.  This was a real wierd
one that I would have never found myself just from my inexperience
with Chevys.

Jim
From: bill@ecn.purdue.edu (Bill Drake)
Subject: Re: Pontiac 301
Organization: Purdue
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 20:44:01 GMT

In article <1992Nov14.213820.12528@ultb.isc.rit.edu> scl7375@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
(Liddle) writes:

>  At the beginning of the summer I aquired a 1979 firebird that had been
stored
>winters, etc, and when I had it inspected, I got more than a fair share of
>compliments on how it looked and how good of condition it was and all the
>normal garage bullshit. But there remains one problem. I was told it had a
>350ci engine when it really had a 301. I can't find parts for the enginr to
>make it perform like i'd like, and from what I hear it's not a performance
>engine. I don't have alot of money, nor time till the summer, andsince it is
my
>main transportation I'm more interested in looks and sound than blunt speed
>(although anything I could get out of it would be nice) so my request is...
>   IDEAS! I'm looking for possibilities to improve performance on the same
>engine if possible. If it seems rediculous to you, tell me. I'm really unsure
>what to do, I'd be much better off with a 350 or other more popular motor. I
>have enuff expirience under hoods (my father has owned many 350's and 454's)
>and any Ideas are welcome, as I am unsure what I'm gonna do. 

I don't know anybody building a 301. I think I'd save my money and swap in
a 350, or a 454 if your dad still has one laying around :-) Dual exhaust is
about all I'd do untill then.


Bill Drake   -   bill@ecn.purdue.edu

47 Ford Club Coupe////454/AT/3:00////  the "Fat Rat"
69 Camaro convertible////327/AT/2:73
From: rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com (Bob Rusk)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
Subject: Re: Car Storage
Date: 19 Nov 92 18:43:26 GMT
	<1992Nov16.153504.19555@mcs.anl.gov> <ausdal.722185226@einstein>
Reply-To: rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com
Organization: Harris Computer Systems Division

On 19 Nov 92 15:00:26 GMT, ausdal@ece.scarolina.edu (Thi Van Ausdal) wrote:

>>In article <1992Nov14.211516.12061@ultb.isc.rit.edu> scl7375@ritvax.isc.rit.edu writes:

>	On a fuel-injected car, you can even rev it and pull the fuel pump
>relay/fuse as the oil is added... Some cars such BMWs, Mercedes, etc, with
>Bosch, and those TPI V8s can't have oil "poured in" easily like on a 
>carburetted engine, so spraying in some aerosol lube (wouldn't silicon 
>or white lithium grease work?) where you pulled off a vacuum line port at
>the manifold would work, too.

There are aerosol "fogging" oils made for this purpose.  They are used
quite a bit on boats (especially outboards), and should be available from
any marina if you can't find them someplace cheaper.

Bob
--
--
 Bob Rusk
 rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com
 My thoughts, probably not Harris'.
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom