HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: dbraun@cad636.intel.com (Doug Braun )
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Modified? (Was: Re: Misc R/C Car Questions)
Date: 22 Jan 93 18:06:02 GMT
Organization: Intel Design Technology

In article <1993Jan22.134127.1906@usceast.cs.scarolina.edu>, hutto@SMTC.engr.scarolina.edu (Brent Hutto) writes:

|> >How can I make my stock motors faster?  Can you make them like
|> >modifieds or what?
|> 
|>     I will dig up an article I posted on this once before and repost
|>     it later today. A "juiced up" stock motor will always be more
|>     expensive to run and less efficient than a good modified motor of
|>     the same power output. I recommend racing in the modified class
|>     and avoiding the whole "stock motor" scene.

This makes me (an airplane person) wonder:  Just what does "modified"
mean (as applied to car motors)?  Apparently if I talk a motor and
modify it, it is not necessarily "modified".  Similarly, I can buy
a motor off the shelf, do nothing to it, and it can be "modified"
anyway.

Can anyone explain?

-- 

"There is no human problem which could not be solved if
 people would simply do as I advise." -- Gore Vidal


 Doug Braun                         Intel Design Technology
                                    408 765-4279

 dbraun@scdt.intel.com

                 / decwrl \
                 | hplabs |
 or maybe:      -| oliveb |- !intelca!mipos3!cadev6!dbraun
                 | amd    |
                 \ qantel /
From: jmoonan@ccv1.bbn.com (John Moonan)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Transmitter/Receiver Mods
Date: 22 Jan 93 18:51:34 GMT
Organization: BBN Communications, Cambridge, MA
NNTP-Posting-Host: ccv1.bbn.com
To: dbraun@scdt.inte.icom


	There are several sources for on-board mixing both electrical and
mechanical.  Newest is an on-board box called MOM that is sold by RCD. They
have been advertising it in the model mags and I just read a review that
thought it was a good unit.  ACE also sells both mechanical and electrical
mixers.  They advertise in the model mags.
--

					THANX, John Moonan
					SYSOP, 495th R/C Squadron
					Groton, MA
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: D2KAK@VM1.CC.UAKRON.EDU
Subject: Re: Question about R/C receivers
Organization: The University of Akron
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 12:36:29 GMT

There are several different types of receiver in use today. First
of all the transmitter does not send out four different signals.
The transmitter sends out one signal with all of the information
for the diffrent channels. In a standard AM or FM radio system,
the information is sent as a stream of pulses of varying width.
As you move the stick on the transmitter, you change the width
of the pulse sent to the receiver. These pulses are transmitted
to the receiver in a fixed order (usually aileron, elevator,
throttle, and rudder in that order). The pulses are usually set
around 1.5-1.6 msec when the controls are centered. The extremes
range from .9 msecto 1.9 msec.
      In the receiver the pulses are sent to a decoder (usually
some type of shift register) which sends the proper pulse to the
proper channel. In addition the transmitter sends one pulse which
is far longer than a standard channel pulse. This pulse serves to
reset the receiver in preperation for the next pulse train.
     In PCM radios, the information on stick position is transmitted
to the receiver (also as a train of pulses) in the form of serial
binary numbers. The length of the binary number determines the resolution
of the system (hence 512 or 1024 bit resolution). A dedicated microprocesor
in the receiver then decodes the information and sends a pulse to the
appropriate servo. This pulse is identical to the pulse sent in a standard
system, which is why you can use servos interchangeably in both types of
systems.
     This is only a brief, non-technical description of the workings of a
modern radio system. There are many more circuits used to modify the
information prior to transmitting and of course the RF sections of the
radio system itself.
     Hope this helps a little.
Kraig Krumm  (AMA59622)
The University of Akron
Electronic Systems
From: linkosal@klaava.Helsinki.FI (Tapio Linkosalo)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Help with release agents needed
Date: 28 Jan 93 07:16:09 GMT
Organization: University of Helsinki
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]

The best release agents you find in shops selling glassfibres
and resins. Also, a local boatmaker might help.

There are waxes made especially for mold release purposes. You
add 2 - 5 layers of these, letting each layer dry well and
polish it before next. Shimonez (sp?) car wax works quite well
too, but avoid car wax with silicone, if you intend to paint
your fuselage.

There are also teflon release films, that you apply quite the
same way than wax, but they should be better. Frekote is the
brand I'm using.

And finally, for very difficult molds, you might try
teflon-tape. It looks much like usual packing tape, is _very_
expensive, but works well. I had a mold for wakefield pylon,
one piece (mold, that is), with vertical sides. Couldn't get
any piece out of it with wax. I then covered it with
teflon-tape, and then I could almost shake the pylons out of
the mold :-)

-Tapio Linkosalo-
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: svoboda@rtsg.mot.com (David Svoboda)
Subject: Re: Tachometers 
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 21:28:21 GMT

In article <C1E85w.Grr@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu> ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib) writes:
|
|I've seen the contact tachometers in science catalogs but they're 
|always in the $200-500 range. Not quite the hobby item methinks..
|more like something you'd use for making sure one's record player 
|is always at 33 1/3 rpm...

I remember a simple mechanical tachometer I saw once when I was younger.  
It consisted of a small sliding wire in a little tube.  You held the tiny 
device against the head of your running engine and adjusted the length of 
the wire until it achieved maximum resonance (vibrated back and forth the 
farthest), then held it up and read the rpm off of the markings on the 
side of the wire.  No good for seeing variation, but it couldn't have cost 
more than a few bucks, and certainly fulfilled the KISS principle.

		Dave Svoboda, Palatine, IL
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re:  Vision and Mail-Order Availability/Servo Upgrading
From: SRINGROS@bcsc02.gov.bc.ca
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 93 14:05:01 PST
Organization: BC Systems Corporation

 
>`real' 6 servo glider to justify the cost of my nice radio!  I like the Legend,
>but would like to have a foam wing...
 
If you want a composite wing, Dodgson is just up the road from you. (you would
get a competitive airplane as well!)
 
Scott Ringrose
Printing and Presentation Services
B C  Sytems Corporation, (604)389-3729 BCSC01(MVS)=SC32169
BCSC02(VM)=SRINGROS INTERNET=SRINGROS@BCSC02.gov.bc.ca
From: gregt@col.hp.com (Greg Tarcza)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Connecting servo cable to rudder
Date: 25 Jan 1993 15:02:20 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division
NNTP-Posting-Host: hpcsrc9.col.hp.com

cwc51@cas.org (Charles W. Collins) writes:
> 
> What is the best method for connecting a rudder that is on an angle (about 
> 20 degrees)?  There is upward swing produced at the connection point as the 
> rudder moves back and forth.

Ball joints will do the job.  Your local hobby shop should stock them (I
think Dubro makes them).
						Greg T.

===============================================================================
Greg Tarcza      WA2OOD                                               /
Hewlett-Packard Company                Pikes                         /
P.O. Box 2197                            Peak                       /-,  /-,
Colorado Springs, CO  80901                Soaring                 /  / /  /
719-590-2471                                 Society              /  / /--/
                                                                      /
gregt@col.hp.com                                                     /
===============================================================================
From: U40348@uicvm.uic.edu (Jay Lorenzana)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Altering the timing on stock motors
Date: 25 Jan 93 16:19:06 GMT
Article-I.D.: uicvm.93025.101906U40348
Organization: University of Illinois at Chicago


Hello,

I have some questions about RC car motors.  In particular the
Kyosho 24 degree stock motor.

What are the pros and cons of changing the timing on such motors?

Will the motors life degrade?

How much faster can it go?

Does it increase torque or increase RPM (or both)?

How much work is involved in changing the timing?

An aside:  Does motors have the same charactoristics in forward and
reverse?  How much percent decrease is there in reverse compared to
forward (if any)?
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: bob@harrier.demon.co.uk (Bob day)
Subject: Re: Tachometers 
Distribution: world
Organization: Harrier Softnet Ltd
Reply-To: bob@harrier.demon.co.uk
X-Mailer: Simple NEWS 1.90 (ka9q DIS 1.19)
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1993 19:11:20 +0000

>> 
>I believe by "analog tach" it means the readout is an analog scale -
>needle and dial instead of LCD digits.  The pickup is still optical
>so you don't have to touch the prop.
>
  Could well be..... Most of the analog one's I've seen have a rubber
  cup/wheel which you press onto the spinner...

 cheers

 bob

Harrier Softnet Ltd    tel +44-734-731181              I'd rather be playing
Ivanhoe Rd             fax +44-734-734546              with my chopper
Finchampstead          email bob@harrier.demon.co.uk     O  / __________
Berkshire                                               -|-<>     /\======O
RG11 4QQ                                               _/ \_    __\/__
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: eeak@teal.csn.org (Ed Krejcik)
Subject: Connecting pushrods to servos
Keywords: EZ Connectors
Organization: Colorado SuperNet, Inc.
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 23:39:30 GMT

Another from my list of questions:

SCENARIO:
I'm still finishing up my Eagle II. The instructions say to
put 90 degree bends for my pushrod connections to the servos.
My flying buddy here at work says to solder quick links to the
end - much more secure. My hobby shop sold me Dubro EZ connectors.

I use the EZ connectors on my Gentle Lady, and they are great.
They make it very easy for trimming. My friend says that they
will be too unreliable in a power plane due to the vibration.


QUESTION:
Can I use the EZ connectors, or will they fail due to vibration?
They are my first choice.

Thanks,
-- 
*** Ed Krejcik                  +--------------------------------------+  *** 
*** Precision Visuals, Inc.     | "Don`t be outraged, be outrageous!!" |  *** 
*** Boulder, CO                 +--------------------------------------+  ***
*** 303/530-9000      Email to: eeak@pvi.com          Disclaimer: mine... ***
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: kaiser@elec.canterbury.ac.nz (Chris Kaiser)
Subject: Re: Electric Power Recomendations
Organization: Electrical Engineering, University of Canterbury, New Zealand
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 22:21:14 GMT

In article <JMOONAN.93Jan26094904@ccv1.bbn.com>, jmoonan@ccv1.bbn.com (John Moonan) writes:
> 
> 	I'm a long time wet power flyer but this past summer I decided to build
> an electric powered glider for a change of pace.  Ended up building a
> Goldberg Electra.  Power is the stock motor with a Master Airscrew 2.5X1
> gearbox and 12X8 folding prop.  Battery packs are 6 cell 1400 SCR, 7 cell 1400
> SCR and 7 cell 1700 SCE.  It flys great and I've had a lot of fun with it for
> the last 6 months.  Has a good climb on the 6 cell pack and very good climb on
> the 7 cell packs.  Now the question:
> 
> 	The motor seems to be drawing about 25-30 amps on a fresh charge. I say
> this because it blew 20 amp fuses after about 30 seconds of run but has not
> blown a 30 amp fuse yet.  Is this a reasonable current for this motor?  Would
> I be better off going to a 3.0X1 gearbox or a different prop?  Am still using
> the original motor (has about 40 flights on it) and wondering how much longer I
> can expect it to last.  Any suggestions for replacement motor (other then
> AstroFlight which are expensive) when the time comes?  Would some of the
> modified motors that the car racers use work?  How many turns, etc.??

I'd guess that the motor is drawing on the low side of 25 amps, which is
still a lot for a standard 550 and would explain the good climb :-)
An Astro 05 draws around 25 amps in flight, the FAI version nearer 30
(depending on prop size). The main difference is that the Astro's are
more efficent at these high currents, and will last a lot longer!

As for a replacement motor, the standard 550's are cheap so you could
stick with them. Another option may be the Goldfire 550 motor - I'm
not sure if this is a standard 550 or an improved one but it's sold
as an electric flight motor.

A problem with car motors is that they are generally set up to run too
fast for aircraft use. However a guy in my club gets good performance
from a Kyosho "truck" motor, which is designed for torque at low speeds
(compared to most car motors).

Chris Kaiser

Postgrad, Elec. Eng. Dept.
University of Canterbury
Christchurch, NEW ZEALAND
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: My plane has fallen and it can't get up!
From: SRINGROS@bcsc02.gov.bc.ca
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 93 08:04:55 PST
Organization: BC Systems Corporation

>after launch. Or maybe you could have some friend to throw the model, so
>that you can consentrate on steering?
 
You may have hit the problem with the comment about THROWING the model.
1/2a's do not respond well (in my experience) to someone pitching them
like a fastball, if the launcher takes a few running steps and lets the
plane fly out of his hand, you can almost be assured there won't be a problem.
It sounds like the same Taylorcraft kit I built a few years ago, I ran a
muffled 049 with the prop on backward(as suggested in an earlier post). It
was an ok little plane, it would take off on grass (on a good day), could
be hand launched by pilot, but was a little fast for scale.  It was sorta
like the Gimli glider when the power was off, but otherwise something nice
for small field flying.
 
Scott
 
Scott Ringrose
Printing and Presentation Services
B C  Sytems Corporation, (604)389-3729 BCSC01(MVS)=SC32169
BCSC02(VM)=SRINGROS INTERNET=SRINGROS@BCSC02.gov.bc.ca
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: hart@cheshire (James A. Hart)
Subject: Re: Do most servos input a "pulse width modulated" sig?
Organization: TRW Inc., Redondo Beach, CA
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 93 21:15:05 GMT

D2KAK@VM1.CC.UAKRON.EDU () writes:
: Almost all servos now on the market are three wire types using a
: positive and negative (+5volts & Ground) and signal wires.
: The servo will respond to a Positive on pulse between .9 and 1.9 msec
: in duration. The off time is usually not critical as long as its around
: 2.5 msec or so.   The signal will look something like this:
:      +5 Volt               ___         ___
:       0 Volt      ________|   |_______|   |_________
: I hope this
: I hope this diagram shows up all right!

I've used servos in non r/c applications, and have found that as long
as the pulse WIDTH is within reason, that you can set the frequency 
well above that of the normal recievers output.  It makes it easy to
eliminate that 'buzzing' low frequency oscillation you sometimes get.

: The servo will normally center at about 1.5 msec for Futaba and J.R.
: and 1.4 msec for older Kraft radios. (Kraft Sport Series centered at
: 1.9 msec).  How many of you remember Kraft radios?

I love my Kraft servos!  I think the centering adjustment in the hub is
a great idea.  Why don't others do this? 

:  
: Hope this helps.
: Kraig Krumm (AMA59622)
: The University of Akron
: Electronic Systems

--
Name:        Jim Hart    N6JSS
InterNet:    hart@donald.etdesg.TRW.COM 
                         I'd rather be (R/C) LANDSAILING!
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: D2KAK@VM1.CC.UAKRON.EDU
Subject: Re:Connecting servo cable to rudder
Organization: The University of Akron
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 13:44:13 GMT

I have found that this type of installation is a natural for a pull-pull
cable type control hook-up. I have been using Sullivans Kevlar pull-pull
system for about two years in a quarter scale Laser with NO problems.
DuBro also makes a two sided control horn for pull-pull applications.
You could probably also get away with one of the many ball-link type
connectors if it's a small plane. In many cases, simply aligning the
control horn with the pushrod will work just fine, even though the
pushrod moves up and down slightly as the rudder turns.
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: svoboda@rtsg.mot.com (David Svoboda)
Subject: Re: SchoolGirl -- My first RC plane
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 20:35:19 GMT

In article <1993Jan20.142756.21667@cas.org> cwc51@cas.org (Charles W. Collins) writes:
|
|I have a few questions:
|
|1.  Now that I'm installing 3 servos, I'm concerned that the additional weight
|may be too much for the engine (a Cox 0.49 RC model -- Medallion?)  Will using a
|prop that is one size larger than recommended help any?

No, not really.  If you are worried about having enough power, I would suggest
popping for an Enya .09 Pet, or an OS .10 FP.

|2.  The plans mark the center-of-gravity but say nothing about how the weight of
|the radio components should be distributed from top-to-bottom.  With a biplane,
|will I gain stability by raising or lowering the components in the fuselage?

Don't worry about it.  Install the radio for maximum convenience, and best
nose-to-tail balance.   Vertical balance makes little difference on a plane
like that.

|3.  For a beginner, how much movement should I allow in the elevator and rudder?
|The original design did not allow for ANY downward motion in the elevator.  I
|adjusted that to allow at least 1/4" drop.

Start with about 1/4 to 3/8 inch each way on the elevator, a tad bit more on the
rudder.  GET AN EXPERIENCED PILOT TO HELP YOU FLY IT.  

|Any advice on the installation of the radio components would be appreciated.  So
|far, so good.

Actually, I would suggest shelving that particular airplane for a couple of years,
and buying a 40-sized trainer and engine to learn on.  An 049 sized biplane is
not going to be terribly stable, will be very affected by wind, will seem very
fast (due to small size), and you really want to use a mini radio for it.  If you
started now, you could easily have a trainer done for spring.  Above all, though,
get an instructor to help you.  Talk to your local hobby shop about clubs, and
go to a meeting or two.  If you don't do this, you will be very likely to lose
your investment the first time you take it out to fly it.

		Dave Svoboda, Palatine, IL
From: sasaki@netop3.harvard.edu (Marty Sasaki)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Wind Speed Gauge
Date: 22 Jan 93 16:12:56 GMT
Article-I.D.: das.1993Jan22.161256.18324
Reply-To: sasaki@netop3.harvard.edu (Marty Sasaki)
Organization: Harvard University


In article <1jnaclINN9fi@male.EBay.Sun.COM>, frankfx@volkswagon.EBay.Sun.COM (Joe Fenech) writes:
>Who can tell me where to get a hand held wind speed
>detector. I have seen a few on the slopes, but have
>not been able to find out where they come from.

Find a kite shop and ask there. There are a few in the San Francisco
Bay area.

There a few types that are popular on the kite field. They range in
price from $15 for the Dwyer to over a $100 for the digital readout
types.
--
Marty Sasaki               Harvard University           Sasaki Kite Fabrications
sasaki@noc.harvard.edu     Network Operations Division  26 Green Street
                           10 Ware Street               Jamaica Plain, MA 02130
                           Cambridge, MA 02138-4002     phone/fax: 617-522-8546
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: larry@peak.psl.nmsu.edu (Evil Engineer doin' it the Cowboy Way)
Subject: Re: Vacuum bagging
Organization: New Mexico State University, MetaPhysical Science Laboratory
	<19930122102151.Roger.Wilfong@umich.edu>
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1993 17:03:00 GMT

>>>>> On Fri, 22 Jan 1993  10:21 edt, Roger.Wilfong@umich.edu  (Roger Wilfong) said:
Roger> I am ignorant of the specifics of vacuum bagging.  I assume it involves
Roger> placing a casting of fiberglass lay-up into a bag and
Roger> sucking the air out - along with air bubbles in the resin.
Roger> But what is the set up?
Roger>  
Roger> Are there any good overview, how-to and build-your-own articles on
Roger> the topic?
Roger>  

Check out the current issue of Flying Models magazine. There is a two-part
article on vacuum bagging (part two next month), which seems to be well
written.

L.
"Yeh, Buddy..            | larry@psl.nmsu.edu (Larry Cunningham)|  _~~_
 I've got your COMPUTER! | % Physical Science Laboratory        | (O)(-)
 Right HERE!!"           | New Mexico State University          |  /..\ 
 (computer THIS!)        | Las Cruces, New Mexico, USA 88003    |   <> 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Disclaimer: Opinions expressed here are CORRECT, mine, and not PSLs or NMSUs..
Tularosa: tullies, roses, lava, white sands, and home of THEM! (atomic ants).

Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: clyde@hitech.com.au (Clyde Smith-Stubbs)
Subject: Anyone used Royal 46 engine?
Organization: HI-TECH Software, Brisbane, QLD, Australia.
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 93 00:29:48 GMT
Keywords: royal 46 engine

Has anyone use the new Royal 46L engine? I'd be especially interested
in any comparisons with it and the ASP 46A.
--
 Clyde Smith-Stubbs       | HI-TECH Software,       | Voice: +61 7 300 5011
 clyde@hitech.com.au      | P.O. Box 103, Alderley, | Fax:   +61 7 300 5246
 ...!nwnexus!hitech!clyde | QLD, 4051, AUSTRALIA.   | BBS:   +61 7 300 5235
 HI-TECH Software: C Compilers for all manner of machines
Organization: Sponsored account, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 16:04:33 -0500 
From: Chris Beasley <cb1p+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: SCR vs. SCE?

What do SCR and SCE mean with respect to NiCd batteries?  Any other
TLAs I should know about?
Cb
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: jbadger@bigd.cray.com (Jon Badger)
Subject: Adding Dual Rate Controls
Reply-To: jbadger@bigd.cray.com (Jon Badger)
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 21 Jan 93 13:51:45 CST

There is an article in the Nov 92 issue of RCM which explains how to add
dual rate controls to a Tx that doesn't have this feature. I contacted the
author who said that his circuit works on the Futaba FN, Kraft, Old World,
etc but he doesn't know what the resistor values should be on a Futaba FG
series Tx.

Does anyone have any experience with adding dual rates to their systems or
know of an archive where I might find this knid of information?

Thanks---

>=====================================================================<
 Jon Badger - CRAY Research, Inc. - Network Supercomputing Support
 5005 LBJ Freeway, Suite 800        Dallas, TX 75244  214-450-9558
 Internet: jbadger@bigd.cray.com    UUCP: uunet!bigd.cray.com!jbadger
>=====================================================================<


Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: mgwheele@crockett.ecn.purdue.edu (Matthew G Wheeler)
Subject:  Do most servos input a "pulse width modulated" signal?
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 15:46:01 GMT

In article <1993Jan21.130523.7579@cas.org> cwc51@cas.org (Charles W. Collins) writes:
>
I'm wondering what the signal between the reciever and the servo looks like.
Is it the sort of standard pulse width modulated signal where the pulses
range between 1.0 and 2.0 mSec? Where could I get specs for this signal
or specs for the reciever in general? 

Matt