HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 6 Nov 1992 08:23:04 EST
From:         ZGDSHSE <ZGDSHSE@SJUMUSIC.BITNET>
Subject:      Table Saw Stand I Built

Hi There -

I built the Woodsmith table saw base you are referring to.
As I have a Craftsman contractor's saw I didn't have to make
modifications for a different fence, so cannot address this.

I replaced one side of drawers with a door covering shelves.
This is nore useful to me - I really don't have the need for
so many shelves.  Also, the open side panels woulde better if
they were covered.  I get a lot of sawdust on items stored there.
Also on the saw blades on the pegs projecting from the sides.
Though this is not a real problem.

The saw is so heavy it is still hard to move around easily, but
it is far better than with the Sears wheel sets.  I got two
locking wheels and two free rotating ones.It is so stable I
am yet to lock the wheel sets down.

The storage is great.  I might also mount an electrical outlet
box on the cabinet for convenience.  Also, the sawdust reduction
in my work place is phenomemal|  Much cleaner now.

One other small problem.  When I set the fence down on the
surface of the cabinet it covers the top drawer or door panel.
I would make accommodation for this.

I am really glad I made the unit.  Great storage in absolutely
wasted space.  I finished it with some left over Watco Danish
oil.  Seems fine to me. I may build one for under my belt sander
and band saw.  I see wasted space there also|

If you want to bounce ideas off of me, do so.

Gene Sampson
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bob@medrcw.b17b.ingr.com (Robert Whitehead)
Subject: Re: help, glue up mistake
Reply-To: bob@medrcw.b17b.ingr.com
Organization: Vulcan Science Academy Foreign Student Union
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 14:06:05 GMT

In article <1dm5k2INNh1o@rave.larc.nasa.gov>, leut@elc11.icase.edu (Scott T. Leutenegger) writes:
|> 
|> 
|> Time to ask the net how to fix a really dumb mistake.
|> 
|> 
|> Concise problem statement:
|> 
|>   I need to take apart two tongue-groove joints that were glued up
|>   with elmers wood working glue.  Can I do this without destroying the
|>   wood and the joints?  If so, what solvent should I use?  Water?

Scott;

You may be completely SOL in this instance.  If the glued joint has cured,
the glue forms a bond stronger than the wood around it.

It might be worth calling the 800 service operator and asking if there is
a toll-free customer service number for Borden; 1-800-555-1212 is the operator's
number.

If you do find a solvent that Borden recommends for dissolving their glues,
please post the information; I'm sure we'd all be glad to hear it!
-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Robert C. Whitehead       |                     NOTE
| Intergraph Corporation    |      The Most Fundamental Particles in
| Mapping Sciences Division |This Employee Are Held Together by a "Gluing"
| Technical Documentation   | Force About Which Little is Currently Known
| Mailpath: bob@medrcw.b17b |  and Whose Adhesive Power Can Therefore Not
| Phone: (205) 730-1923     |          Be Permanently Guaranteed.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
From the Real World: bob@medrcw.b17b.ingr.com


"I would guess that death is no longer sufficient to alleviate its
boredom, therefore Commander Riker is alive."
    -- Data to Picard, "Skin of Evil", Stardate 41601.3
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: guy@slustl.slu.edu (Guy Smith)
Subject: Re: Acrylic Problem
Organization: Saint Louis University  Saint Louis, MO
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 20:12:42 GMT

In article <1992Nov9.215214.6312@ryn.mro4.dec.com> abbott@priory.enet.dec.com (Robert Abbott) writes:
>I have had good luck using acetone to clean the glue and paper from
>plexiglass. It does not cloud the plastic and works quickly. Wear
>gloves.

This can't have been plexiglas. Acetone is a plex solvent and is commonly
used to join plex sheets together. I've done it many times. (you need
machined edges for it to work well though).
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: Straight Edge for Jointer Alignment
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 20:09:41 GMT

whit@carson.u.washington.edu (John Whitmore) writes:
: 
: >> >Plate glass is typically quite flat, to optical tolerances....
: 
: >I don't know what somebody means by "optical tolerances" but I have yet to
: >hear of anybody making precision optical components from plate glass.
: >It certainly isn't flat to 1/4 wave like they need for front
: >surface mirrors for the diagonal in a reflecting telescope, for instance.
: 
: 	Firstly, plate glass is ground flat.  It should easily
: be flat enough for 1 mil or so over a couple of feet.

The person wanted to use the glass to make two tables parallel. This could
easily require more that a couple of feet. The glass will also sag.

: 	Secondly, most thick glass is NOT plate glass, it is
: FLOAT glass (floated as a sheet onto liquid tin to flatten),
: and this is considerably cheaper than plate glass.

Irrelevant to the discussion - you still would need thick plate glass.
Thin plate glass would sag.

: 	Thirdly, people ARE making precision optical components
: from selected pieces of plate glass and float glass.  They have
: done so for years.  One such device I am familiar with is
: a reflector for energy selection of X-rays, and the flatness 
: requirement is pretty close to atomic sizes for this application.

"Selected pieces" is the operative term. All plate glass is not
created equal. Also, it is not used as purchased. It has to be
precision ground to the necessary flatness/smoothness. If you are
working in a temperature controlled environment, then plate glass
is fine. It gives problems if the equipment is not kept at a constant
temperature.

Bill
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: eap@vuse.vanderbilt.edu (Edward A. Parrish)
Subject: Re: Circular Saw recommendations
Organization: Vanderbilt University School of Engineering, Nashville, TN, USA
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 17:15:21 GMT


In article <WOODWORK%92110909475021@IPFWVM.BITNET> Bob Pelcovits <PH500000@BROWNVM.BITNET> writes:
>I rip a lot of large plywood sheets using a circular saw; right now I
>use a very cheap Skilsaw. Budget and space limitations prevent me from
>getting a table saw large enough to handle 4x8 sheets, so I will continue to
>use a circular saw.
> I would like to
>get a better circular saw and would appreciate people's recommendations.
>Should I stick with a 7 1/4 blade or go down to 4 1/2? I would like to
>spend less than $150. Thanks,
A recent issue (Oct or Nov) of Consumer Reports had a good
article on circular saws. Believe it or not, the top rated
saw was a Sears model that my local store has for $129.95.



Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: gcohen@mailer.cc.fsu.edu (Gregory Cohen)
Subject: Re: Tools Made in America
Organization: Florida State University
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 92 05:59:18 GMT

In article <t-p1rlb@rpi.edu> ameres@ithaca.cat.rpi.edu (Eric Ameres) writes:
>
<Lots deleted>

>Right now I have an immediate need for a good set of router bits.
>Seems like most are made in Taiwan (or in the case of Freud, Italy).
>Are Vermont American's any good?  How bad are Sears'?  I also need to
>get a good doweling jig for edge to side doweling (sources and prices
>would be appreciated).
>
>Eric.
>
I find that Vermont American bits are usefull for about 3 minutes as a bit
and then they make fine paper weights.  I have had no bad experiences with
sears' carbide bits.
I have not used Vermont American's carbide bits.

-Greg Cohen
gcohen@mailer.acns.fsu.edu


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: sgs8r@kelvin.seas.Virginia.EDU (Steve Strickland, sgs8r@virginia.edu)
Subject: Re: help, glue up mistake
Organization: Dept. of Systems Eng., U.Va.
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 19:36:57 GMT

In article <1dm5k2INNh1o@rave.larc.nasa.gov> leut@elc11.icase.edu (Scott T. Leutenegger) writes:
>
>Concise problem statement:
>
>  I need to take apart two tongue-groove joints that were glued up
>  with elmers wood working glue.  Can I do this without destroying the
>  wood and the joints?  If so, what solvent should I use?  Water?
>
>
>  Can I just douse the joint with water and hope to pull it apart?
>  It is glued with elmers wood-working glues which should be water
>  soluble.  Would this ruin the wood?
>	

I suggest using a belt sander and/or plan to reduce the thickness of the
panels. It will take a while (unless it's pine), but you may even find planing
a pleasurable experience.  The other solutions you propose seem a bit risky.

-Steve Strickland
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: Router Table Inquiries
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1992 01:45:04 GMT

Stan Armstrong writes
> If it is ease of cutting mortises you are after, consider one of the
> horizontal router mounting jigs that allow you to mount your router
> at the back of the table with the bit parallel to the top. The 
> height of the bit above the table is regulated by swingine the router
> about a pivot. This would let you use your plunge capability and
> thus eliminate the need to pivot the workpiece.

So, we clamp the wood to the table, plunge the router horizontally,
then unclamp the wood so we can slide it along the vertical fence, 
then clamp the wood back down, and then unplunge the router?

Sounds awkward to me. 

And, if you don't clamp the wood down, you've got to have a hand holding
it while you use the other to plunge the router in. 

Sounds dangerous to me.

I suppose you could add another vertical fence on the other side of the
work from which you're cutting the mortise, and some kind of spring
loaded hold down to stop the wood from lifting off the table when you
plunge the router in.

More reasonable, but not ideal.

For instance, how do you set stop blocks for sliding the wood across the 
bit just enough to produce the desired length of mortise? Or, are you
good enough to do that by eye (or feel)? Seems to me you can only set
a block at one end if the piece is longer than your router table.

What you want is to clamp the wood to your bench, then make a mortising
fixture that quick-clamps to the wood. The fixture guides the router,
which you operate hand-held. When done with one mortise, move the
mortising fixture to the location of the next mortise, and cut again.

The mortising fixture can be as simple as two pieces of wood, one on each
side of the wood to be mortised, with stop blocks attached to the tops
of one of the blocks. Use the router's edge guide against one of the 
pieces to set the location of the mortise (the stop blocks set the
length).

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
From: twl10@ccc.amdahl.com (Tom Littauer)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Dado Blades?
Date: 5 Nov 92 20:32:14 GMT
Reply-To: twl10@JUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Tom Littauer)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA


My stack dado trick goes in the opposite direction. I cut a test with
just the outside blades, measured the cut, added a chipper, measured, added...
Then I wrote the width of each chipper on the chipper. With fixed .005"
shims (floppy disks sans hub rings) it's easy to get the right cut.
-- 
Tom Littauer at Amdahl M/S 278, PO Box 3470, Sunnyvale CA 94088-3470 USA
+1 408 737 5056     twl10@juts.ccc.amdahl.com     twl10@amail.amdahl.com
I'll tell you when I'm speaking as Amdahl's Spokesman - usually I'm not.
V'z n fgrnygu-grpuabybtl rapelcgrq .fvtangher ivehf - TBGPUN!!!
From: apoyner@as.arizona.edu (Tony Poyner)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Straight Edge for Jointer Alignment
Date: 9 Nov 92 14:53:22 GMT
Reply-To: apoyner@as.arizona.edu
Organization: MMT Observatory, Univ.of Arizona

As the original poster of this thread, I'd like to thank all the people who
responded.  The immediate solution to my problem was to use the fence of my
Unifence.  I measured the narrow edge to be flat to 0.003" - probably not as
good as a machinist's straight edge, but plenty good enough for my application.
One day I will get a piece of flat ground tool steel stock to avoid having to 
use the fence.

The problem with the jointer proved to be more operator error than anything
else.  The fence is supported at the ends, and both ends have to be released
in order to angle or shift the fence.  What was not obvious to me was that the
support on the outfeed end had to be released when the infeed table was 
adjusted for depth of cut.  Not releasing it caused the fence to pull up on
the end of the outfeed table.  

I adjusted the outfeed table to the cutters and then clamped it down hard.  
This took care of the remaining non-alignment.  With a new set of blades,
the jointer is now performing beautifully.

---
Tony Poyner                               apoyner@as.arizona.edu
Multiple Mirror Telescope Observatory     Tel   (602) 621-5185
Univ. of Arizona, Tucson, AZ 85721        Fax   (602) 670-5740
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ACUS05@waccvm.corp.mot.com (Paul Anderson)
Subject: Looking for wood
Organization: Motorola
Date: 10 Nov 1992 10:09:03 MST


I have been looking for exotic woods in lumber.  Primarily, I am looking
for burl walnut.

I don't mine mail order.  Any and all suggestions welcomed.

Thanks in advance...............

Paul

Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 6 Nov 1992 07:31:36 EST
From:         FABY000 <FABY@NMUMUS.BITNET>
Subject:      Problem with router

Several months ago I experienced a problem with dovetails when my PC
plunge router was used in a router table for dovetails.  In my case it
turned out that the router slipped a little because the locking mech.
was not able to hold.  Since that time I corrected it by using a
non-plunge router.  The bit did not slip.  One suggestionis to insure
that there is small space between the bottom of the shaft in the router
and the end of the bit.  Roger Barry
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: guido@blink.att.com (Guido Bertocci)
Subject: Re: Accurate cuts with a circular saw (was: Circular Saw recommendations)
Organization: AT&T
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 14:08:28 GMT

news@tivoli.UUCP (New owner) writes:

>With the discussion of circular saw cutting attachments I thought it
>worthwhile to mention a low-cost, low-tech carpenter's jig with which you can
>make very accurate cuts:

>Take a sheet of plywood with an edge as straight as the cuts you'd like to
>produce.  Cut a strip about 6" wide the length of the plywood.  Cut a second
>strip about 12" wide.  The accuracey of these cuts doesn't matter.
>Attach the first strip to the second (e.g. with drywall screws) as show below.
>The inside edge of the first piece must be the factory cut edge.

>          
>        1 |-------|
>          |-------|---------|
>        2 |-----------------|

You can expand on the utility slightly by extending "2" on both sides of "1"
>          
>             1 |-------|
>          |----|-------|---------|
>        2 |----------------------|

By trimming with both sides of your circular saw you now have a guide
for both sides of the saws plate.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: chest of drawers
From: michael@sunbeam.ksc.nasa.gov (Michael D. Myjak x7-3286)
Date: 10 Nov 92 15:07:08
Organization: NASA, Kennedy Space Center, FL.
In-reply-to: fichtenbaum@desire.wright.edu's message of 9 Nov 92 16:10:59 ESTLines: 25


   I am making a chest of drawers using Norm's shaker design.  He suggests
   gluing the frames to hold the drawers into blind dados.  It occurs to me
   that this method might create some problems because of wood movement.
   Unfortunately I have already cut all of the dados which I am sure
   limits my options.  Has anyone built a chest of drawers using this design?
   Will wood movement create problems?  If yes does anyone have a suggestion
   about how I can deal with the problem.

    Rudy Fichtenbaum
   Fichtenbaum@desire.wright.edu


If memory serves.. did Norm glue the frames in place? or did he simply
nail the frames in place using his nifty rec-woodworking-hated brad
nail gun? Seems that this approach would cause less side-grain movement.

--
- Michael D. Myjak			
  Senior Technical Specialist, Systems Analyst
  McDonnell Douglas Space Systems Company
  Kennedy Space Center, Fl., 32815
  MYJAK@TITAN.KSC.NASA.GOV

Gravity. It's not just a good idea. Its the LAW!
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-Envelope-to: WOODWORK@IPFWVM.BITNET
X-VMS-To: IN%"WOODWORK@IPFWVM.BITNET"
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Sat, 7 Nov 1992 11:56:00 EST
From:         RBHODGE@TAYLORU.BITNET
Subject:      Re: Problem: Blotching on Natural Cherry Finish

I am unfamiliar with stains that contain filler.  Can somebody mention some
brands and comment on how they work?

The whole concept of fillers still confuses me.  It appears that you need
them to fill pores to get a good finish but that they often wash out the
grain.  So, what is a "good" finish? One that is smooth or one that
shows the grain?
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: armstrng@cs.dal.ca (Stan Armstrong)
Subject: Re: Problem with router
Organization: Math, Stats & CS, Dalhousie University, Halifax, NS, Canada
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 03:13:22 GMT

Measure the diameter of the shank of the bit. I had a Freud 1/4" shank
bit that came fresh from the box more than 1/64" undersized. My Sears
router collet wouldn't hold it either. I got my money back. On the
bit, not on the router. Too bad. :-(

-- 
Stan Armstrong. Religious Studies Dept, Saint Mary's University, Halifax, N.S.
Armstrong@husky1.stmarys.ca | att!clyde!watmath!water!dalcs!armstrng
From: gph@hpindda.cup.hp.com (Paul Houtz)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Wobble type dado blade.
Date: 10 Nov 92 19:27:02 GMT
Organization: HP Information Networks, Cupertino, CA

waligora@hsi.com (Robert Waligora) writes:

>A friend of mine suggested that the wobble type dado blades might ruin
>my table saw. He claims that the back and forth motion might bend the
>arbor or cause other excessive wear. Is there any truth to this?
>-- 

   Nope.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: toml@xrxedds.UUCP (Tom Love)
Subject: Re: dust collector or bomb? help
Organization: Xerox EDDS, Herndon, Va.
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 15:00:52 GMT

static buildup will depend on a number of factors - it's
unpredictable.  however, i grew up on the mississippi and remember a
grain silo explosion (same principle).  i would take protective
measures - that silo wasn't pretty...

protection is simple.  find bare braided (important) copper wire.
bore a hole at each end of each pvc segment, diameter just large
enough to poke the wire through, leaving room for fittings.  run
braided wire segments on the *inside* of each pipe segment, leaving 6"
or so sticking out each end.  build your dust collection system - you
might want to friction fit and duct-tape the connections, rather than
gluing, so that it can be disassembled to clear blockages.  at each
joint use a wire nut to join the wire segments.  ground the wire at
each end, fastening it to the tool or an electric outlet ground.  if
you're a perfectionist use electrician's dust seal (a gray sticky
putty) to really seal the little holes you drilled.

beats the hell out of blowing up your shop and burning down your
house.  i think you can get the braided wire at radio shack.


--

-----

Tom Love
Xerox Engineering Systems / Engineering Document Management Systems
607 Herndon Pkwy, Herndon, VA 22070  Voice 703-787-2027  Intelnet 8-440-2027
				     Fax 703-787-2110
Internet:   toml@xrxedds.com
            toml.herndon@xerox.com
UUCP:       ...!uunet!xrxedds!toml
XNS:        toml:herndon:xerox
From: news@tivoli.UUCP (New owner)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Accurate cuts with a circular saw (was: Circular Saw recommendations)
Date: 12 Nov 92 15:51:25 GMT
Reply-To: twb@tivoli.com (Tom Bereiter)
Organization: TIVOLI Systems Inc., Austin, TX

With the discussion of circular saw cutting attachments I thought it
worthwhile to mention a low-cost, low-tech carpenter's jig with which you can
make very accurate cuts:

Take a sheet of plywood with an edge as straight as the cuts you'd like to
produce.  Cut a strip about 6" wide the length of the plywood.  Cut a second
strip about 12" wide.  The accuracey of these cuts doesn't matter.
Attach the first strip to the second (e.g. with drywall screws) as show below.
The inside edge of the first piece must be the factory cut edge.

          
        1 |-------|
          |-------|---------|
        2 |-----------------|

Now place your saw on piece 2, with the saw's guide plate firmly against piece 1.
Cut the entire length of piece 2 using the straight edge of piece 1 as a guide.
This is now your jig.

To use, just attach the jig to the material you want to cut (e.g. with screws for
carpentry, with clamps otherwise).  The edge of piece 2 will be the waste-side of
the saw kerf.  The two-piece design saves you from having to measure and 
remember the width of your saw's guide plate.  Disadvantages:  if you change
your saw blade or angle-of-cut you need a new jig.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bob1@cos.com (Bob Blackshaw)
Subject: Re: Rip fence to the left?
Organization: Corporation for Open Systems
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 15:00:23 GMT

In <SESTRICH.92Nov9164728@yeti.bbn.com> sestrich@yeti.bbn.com (Joe Sestrich) writes:


>	OK, First of all, I'm left handed, so this will be totally confused.

Well, I'm right-handed,

>	I have a very old Atlas saw on which the blade tilts toward the left.
>	I have always used the right slot for crosscutting, and the fence to
>	the right of the blade.  For a lefty, this all makes perfect sense.
>	I get to "hide" behind the fence for rips, and it seems to be the
>	most comfortable setup for crosscutting.

Mine is an old Beaver 8" with cast-iron table + CI extensions on both
sides. Cross-cut fence runs either side as does the rip fence. Blade
tilts to the left. When I use a beveled (2 degree) sanding disk, the
rip fence goes on the left. Most other ripping functions are done on
the right. Cross-cut is almost always to the left, except when doing
angle cuts, then it can be either side.

>	What did I just say?  I agree with you 100% -- I think the "standard"
>	setup (except for blade tilt) is ideal for a lefty!

>	I, however cannot remember seeing anyone use the left side of the

See above, being right handed x-cut to the left side lets me stand to
the side of anything that might get thrown back.

>	saw for crosscutting, except where there was a sliding table on
>	the (huge) saw on the left. It seems that the big wing on the right
>	is just too easy to use for supporting the end of a board....


>						Joe Sestrich

		Bob Blackshaw

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking