HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Date: Tue,  1 Sep 1992 10:43:09 -0400 
From: Delores Smiller <ds0s+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Need Parts 71 LTD Conv.

Need parts for a 71 Ford LTD Convertible -
good condition dash board (not cracked), front seat (springs still
good), an "L" from the LTD letters on trunk, possibly other parts
please respond to ds0s@ANDREW.cmu.edu
D.

Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: bongers@gto400.asd.sgi.com (Hans L. Bongers)
Subject: Re: Sticky valves in rarely used engines
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc., Mountain View, CA, USA
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 21:36:26 GMT

In article <1992Aug31.181526.13609@mlb.semi.harris.com>, jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger) writes:
|> 
|>  To get that much gum deposited implies to me that there's liquid fuel,
|> not just vapor, in the intake. This in turn implies perhaps a leaking
|> carburetor or similar problem. When you put it away for storage, you might
|> want to remove and drain the carburetor, perhaps clean it out and store
|> it in an airtight container with a bit of solvent (mineral spirits). Maybe
|> someone else can elaborate on the best, i.e. least amount of gumming-up,
|> way of storing fuel system parts. 
|> -- 
|> ##########################################################################
|> #Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
|> #living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
|> #sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#

If gas supply is the problem, install a shutoff valve in the supply line.  Turn off
the shutoff valve & run the engine dry prior to putting away for many months.

--- hans
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: steven@syacus.acus.oz.au (Steven Malikoff)
Subject: Re: Filling Holes
Organization: ACUS Australian Centre for Unisys Software, Sydney
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 23:21:13 GMT

mdl@phelixsalt (Michael Lynch) writes:
: My '53 Ford has battle damage to the right rear quarter, above the wheel.
: removed the filler and beat the panel back into shape, but there are about
: a dozen holes (3/16" to 1/4") still in the metal.
: So my question is.......how do I fill these holes permanently?  Do I weld

Well, find someone who has a MIG welder. These things are great, on my '44
jeep I had a number of holes in the dashboard and side panels (18 gauge steel)
welded, with practically no distortion. After 'shrinking' the welding (by
rubbing a wet cloth over the hot weld) all that was necessary was a light
grinding, no bog (Ozspeak for filler) needed. 

Steve Malikoff.
steven@syacus.acus.oz.au
Willys MB / Ford GPW  - 50 years old and still going strong!
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: tmcconne@sedona.intel.com (Tom McConnell)
Subject: Re: New 1965 Shelby 427 Cobras
Originator: tmcconne@sedona
Organization: Intel Corporation
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 21:42:05 GMT


In article <185gq9INN3n3@smli.Eng.Sun.COM>, lockwood@acidqueen.Eng.Sun.COM (Jim Lockwood) writes:
> In article <1992Sep3.154521.17685@news.weeg.uiowa.edu> dletcher@news.weeg.uiowa.edu (Drew Letcher) writes:
> >speeds.  How much does he want for one of these "new" 1965 Cobras?  Just
> >$500,000.  That's right, half a million dollars.  Of course, his profits will
> >go to a heart foundation charity.

  I remember reading about these, and I don't think $500,000 was the price. In
fact, I seem to remember a quote from Shelby about not caring that he was
diluting the market for Cobras.

  The article was in Autoweek, about six weeks ago? When I get home I'll look
again.

    Cheers,

    Tom McConnell
-- 
 Tom McConnell          |     Internet: tmcconne@sedona.intel.com
 Intel, Corp. C3-91     |     Phone: (602)-554-8229
 5000 W. Chandler Blvd. | The opinions expressed are my own. No one in 
 Chandler, AZ  85226    | their right mind would claim them.
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: Overdrives
Date: 3 Sep 92 18:31:05 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL


 I'm kind of interested in having overdrive on my project car. It would let
me run a lower (numerically higher) rear end ratio and retain a fuel 
economy in the double digits. However, a modern AOD is right out of the
question; I can't see a 700R4 standing up to a big block Buick for long.
Besides, I'm kind of keen on keeping the Super Turbine transmission for
sportitude reasons.

 I know "They" used to have overdrive units which mounted to the tail of
conventional transmissions, and on fairly large cars too. Dunno about the
torque capacity, however. Anyway, anybody know if there was a GM offering
which is compatible with a TH400-style transmission, hopefully one that
can take 2000lb-ft in low range and 400 in high? Electric would be spiffy
but strength is key.

 I haven't seen any exernal overdrives in the 'yards, ever. Did they die
out in the '50s or what?

-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique,rec.autos.vw,nj.forsale,nj.market.autos
From: dud@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (William F. Dudley Jr.)
Subject: 2 VW Bus and a VW Trike for sale.
Followup-To: poster
Keywords: BUS VW Trike SALE
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 14:52:20 GMT

I am divesting myself of my Bus collection:

1964 Deluxe Bus, 21 Window, 9 passenger, Sunroof.
Converted to 12v operation.  1969 1500cc motor built up to
1650cc with high capacity oil pump and screw on filter.
Frame is pretty rotted.  Body is "good".  ~160000 miles.
I am second owner.  $1000 OBO

1967 Bus, walk thru front seats.  I have a motor for it,
not currently in engine compartment.  Frame solid, body "good".
$1000 OBO

"1980" VW Trike.  1650 cc motor, springer front end, body made from
rear of Manx dune buggy.  $1500 OBO.

If interested, phone or respond by email.

Bill Dudley
Jackson, New Jersey
home: 908 905 9063
work: 908 949 4360
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: schludermann@sscvx1.ssc.gov
Subject: 1946 CHEVY grille for sale
Organization: Superconducting Super Collider Laboratory
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 19:02:35 GMT

    I have a grille for a 1946 chevy sedan. It's in good shape i.e. chrome has
not been perforated, there is a light coating of surface rust on the underside
but no pitting and the support structure has most of it's original paint. There
are some deep scratches and a couple of dents but not visible from 6 feet. The
grille has the chevrolet name plate and the upper trim ring. I've seen nos
for sale for just the louvers at $300.  I will sell it for $130 including
shipping or delivery in the Central Texas Area.

                                         Kris

Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: Filling Holes
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 92 10:39:42 GMT

A hint for welding shut holes in sheetmetal...

Use a block of copper behind the hole.  This will give you a heat sink, and  a
backing that the weld won't stick to.  It greatly reduces burnthrough & so on.


--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
hinzd@picard.med.ge.com
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: goodrich@lynx.larc.nasa.gov (Mike Goodrich)
Subject: noisey rear-end
Organization: NASA Langley Research Center, Hampton, VA  USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 19:24:29 GMT


Greetings;

	I recently replaced a gone bad rear end in my '68 Firebird with one 
out of a '74 Nova from a local junk yard. Inspection revealed the new
unit to be in (apparently) fine shape. Once installed, I noticed that it
was considerably more noisey than the old unit. The noise seems to be in
sync with the gas pedal; thrusting or slowing down is the noisiest, if I
match the gas pedal just right, all noise vanishes ! I suspect that this
is NOT axle bearing noise. Opinions ?


...mike
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: Re: Over-heating and transmission questions.
From: fuchs@local.host
Date: 25 Aug 92 15:54:39 -0600
Reply-To: fuchs@local.host
Distribution: na
Organization: Organization, City, State, etc.

In article <1992Aug25.192618.25481@julian.uwo.ca>, wlsmith@valve.heart.rri.uwo.ca (Wayne Smith) writes:
>In article <1992Aug25.132505.1047@msus1.msus.edu> fuchs@local.host writes:
>>In article <1992Aug25.131702.24945@julian.uwo.ca>, wlsmith@valve.heart.rri.uwo.ca (Wayne Smith) writes:
>>>I've got a few questions here.
>>>Car: 1965 Dodge Polara
>>>trans: 904 (rebuilt, but not by me)
>
>>PUT A THERMOSTAT IN IT.  IF YOU'VE BEEN READING THE NEWS HERE YOU WOULD SEE THA
>>T A THERMOSTAT IS VERY NECESSARY IN KEEPING A CAR COOL.  TAKE IT BACK TO THE
>>TRANY PLACE AND MAKE THEM FIX IT RIGHT.  ITS SOMETHING THEY'VE DONE.
>
>Don't yell!  :)
>
>I guess what I'm saying here is that the trans is still working like
>it has for years, and I can't be sure that it used to down shift the
>way I expect it should.  The torque converter was replaced because the
>ring gear was chewed up in some spots by a bad starter bendix gear.
>I even drove for a few k miles with the reverse gear in a non-functional
>state.
>
>I have put 160 and 180 degree thermostats in as well as no thermostat
>and the presence of a thermostat makes no change in the temp of the engine.
>The way I see it, it's kinda like 6 of one and 1/2 doz. of the other 
>(a thermostat restricts water flow to the rad, letting the water in the
>rad get a little colder, but at the expense of the engine water getting a
>little hotter).  One of these days I'm going to put together some 
>differential equations and model this system to see what's going on...
Sorry about the Caps I was too lazy to use the caps lock key.  Things that can
affect cooling are ignition timing, plugged radiator, rust in engine, leaking
head gasket and on and on. It could be that your rebuilt engine is still tight
and is creating more heat than the radiator can handle.  Also as i asked
someone else how accurate is your gauge?  Your tranny problem is something I
know nothing about but I still think it should be taken care of by the
rebuilder.  One of these days I' going to figure this news system out.
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: Re: noisey rear-end
Date: 26 Aug 92 12:47:50 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL


 Check the pinion for play at the rear U-joint; sometimes the nut loosens up
and gives you a bunch of slop in the gears as well as diff oil leaks at the
front seal. Might as well inspect inside for wear too; any ridges on the 
R&P set or a bright band > 1" on the ring gear is not normal. 
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Coming soon to a theater near you....
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 19:13:08 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 My curiosity finally got the better of me, right when I had some money too,
so I ordered an Eastwood Stitch Welder yesterday. 3 pounds of rod also. I'll
be posting a product review once I get it and play for a while. 

 I had tried using the flux-cored wire (.035") with my AC box but it would
just stick. Maybe it needs confinement? Does anyone know typical coating
compositions for SMAW (stick) welding rods? I'd like to try making some
coated, small diameter rods. I also plan to experiment with the fine wire
when the stitch welder shows up just for the hell of it. 

 
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: pvr@wang.com (Peter Reilley)
Subject: Sticky valves in rarely used engines
Organization: Wang Labs, Lowell MA, USA
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 92 14:16:52 GMT

	I have a '66 Jag XKE that I run one or two times a year.   This
time one intake valve stuck open.   After much work with carb
cleaner I managed to free the valve.   The engine worked OK 
after that.    The question is;  is there anything that I can
add to the gas or oil to prevent this from happening in the
future.

	I suspect that gasoline residue is getting on the valve
stem and forming a film there.   I don't believe that it is 
carbon from combustion because carburator cleaner would 
probably not help.   It is always an intake valve.

	Another engine that I have does the same thing.   I have
a generator that is 1960 vintage that has two cylinders with
side valves.   One time the valves became so stuck I had to
pound them out with a hammer.   When I got them out they were
coated with a thin golden brown film on the stem.   The film 
wiped off easily with solvent.   The valves were then free in their
guides.   This residue must have been from the gas and not 
a combustion product because it desolved so easily and
it was on the intake valves and not the exhaust valves.

	The way I see it; the gas residue caused both problems because 
it cleaned with solvent.   However, the generator has horizontal
valves that could hold the gas in the stem whereas the Jag has
vertical valves that should not.   Both engines sit for a year 
between runs so any gas that has entered the setm will completely
dry out leaving any non-volitile components.   Both engines
do not have valve seals.  This should help, by allowing oil to enter 
the valve stem, but does not seem to help.

	Should I;

*	Put some additive in the gas?   If so what?

*	Put some additive in the oil?   If so what?

*	Use expensive synthetic oil?

*	Use expensive gasoline?   Already necessary for the Jag
	kind of a waste on the generator.

*	Run the engines more often?

*	Grin and bear it?

	Thanks for any help or suggestions.
-- 
>>>>>>>>>>>> Peter Reilley ..... pvr@wiis.wang.com ..... KA1LAT <<<<<<<<<<<<<
                     Well, that about says it.
From: massengale_m@cubldr.colorado.edu
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: '54 Ford glovebox light install?
Date: 25 Aug 92 23:54:31 GMT
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder

I have a glovebox light for my 1954 Ford that someone removed from accc
junker.  I want to install it, but the switch is missing.  

From pictures in the accessories manual, I can see how the light is
attached to the glovebox.  An elonged flange on the bezel is held on
the left side, close to the door, by one of the glovebox screws.  The
glovebox will have a hole punched in the side for the socket to pro-
trude into the dash, permitting the wires to run to the ignition (?)

What's missing is a switch mechanism that activates the light when the
door is opened.  My question is, can I pick up such a switch at NAPA,
or will it have to be Ford-specific?  This car is still a 6-volt, posi-
tive ground, so it's more of a challenge.   I have a correct bulb already,
so I just need the one part to complete the installation.

Thanks for any help!

Not a mechanic,

Melanie
(but I still love cars!)
From: erico@narrator.pen.tek.com (Eric Oosterhof)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: Re: noisey rear-end
Date: 25 Aug 92 20:54:33 GMT
Reply-To: erico@narrator.pen.tek.com (Eric Oosterhof)
Distribution: usa
Organization: tektronix

In article <BtK0Ku.2sK@news.larc.nasa.gov>, goodrich@lynx.larc.nasa.gov (Mike Goodrich) writes:
|> 
|> Greetings;
|> 

... Noisy rear end problems ...
|> was considerably more noisey than the old unit. The noise seems to be in
|> sync with the gas pedal; thrusting or slowing down is the noisiest, if I
|> match the gas pedal just right, all noise vanishes ! I suspect that this
|> is NOT axle bearing noise. Opinions ?

|> ...mike

Eat less chili!  :*)  No, seriously.  The ring and pinion gear are
the probable causes here.  Before buying from the junk yard, you
should have taken the inspection plate off first.  Unfortunately, you
are probably out the $$ on that unit...


Eric Oosterhof                "Gentlemen, I have the utmost confidence 
erico@tekig1.PEN.TEK.COM       in your ability to perform...
(503) 627-4329                 the impossible!"  Capt. Jean-Luc Picard
"Choosy mothers choose .gif"  Anthony C. Zable
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: ccullen@ops-2.Naitc.Com (Carolyn Cullen)
Subject: Bugatti pricing?
Keywords:  Bugatti
Organization: AC Nielsen Co., Bannockburn IL
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 92 23:20:53 GMT

Can anyone suggest a good price info. source on Bugatti's? The 'Old Cars
Price Guide' doesn't list them. I am aware of the Bugatti club but was
hoping for some general info quickly. If anyone has any suggestion of 
current values for 1927 models, please e-mail me.

Thanks.
ccullen@nis.naitc.com

-- 
Carolyn Cullen           |"I'm gonna hit the highway like a battering   
ccullen@nis.naitc.com    | battering-ram on a silver black phantom bike"
DoD#0450 A.C. Nielsen,IL | --Meatloaf
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: achenbac@epcot.spdc.ti.com (Jeff Achenbach)
Subject: Re: Transmission question, and heaps of praise for Helicoil
Organization: TI Semiconductor Process and Design Center
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 18:41:10 GMT

In article <1992Sep3.172852.1066@cs.cornell.edu> chapman@cs.cornell.edu (Richard Chapman) writes:
>
>Now that I have the '37 Nash running, chassis lubed, brakes working,
>etc.  I thought I would take the plunge and go for a drive. I noticed
>the following things about the transmission (3 forward speeds and
>reverse, no overdrive, shifter lever on the floor). The manual I have
>is for a '40 Nash, and at the very least the shifter moved to the
>steering column sometime between 37 and 40, so I don't know how much
>to trust it. I've never done any transmission work, but I guess I'm
>gonna start :-).
>
>0) Fluid level in differential and tranny are good. 
>1) Reverse seems to work fine
>2) Second and high gears seem to work fine. 
>3) In first, I get a sound sort of like a Japanese car in reverse (you know,
>the sound like it is winding up the rubber band) and some vibration in the
>floor boards. Not really a lot, but as speed increases it gets louder. Goes
>away when I shift up into second. Is this normal. I've been watching a few
>movies from the late 30's and I've noticed that most of the cars seem
>to make this sound when starting off -- or do I need to fix something. 

First gear in most old cars and trucks was straight cut instead of helical
cut. This results in more efficient power transfer but a whining noise. It is
really just there to get the car rolling, and second should be able to pull 
from a very low speed.
>
>4) I can downshift from high into second, but when I downshift into first,
>when the car is moving, the gears grind. Is this a case of "well, don't do
>that then" or is something broken? 
>

Don't do that! As well as being straight cut, few if any cars had first gear
synchronizers well into the fifties at least. Do not try to shift into first 
if the car is moving at all. If you do, you'll be rebuilding the tranny in 
no time at all.

Jeff Achenbach
achenbac@epcot.spdc.ti.com
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique,misc.wanted
From: eric@ms.uky.edu (Eric H. Herrin II)
Subject: WANTED: 1929 Desoto parts
Keywords: body parts 
Summary: Need body parts for restoration
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 02:13:31 GMT
Organization: University Of Kentucky, Dept. of Math Sciences

This is posted for a friend, please respond to me and I'll forward your
message.

------------

I need some body parts for a 1929 Desoto 4-door sedan restoration that
I am doing.  Please send details if you own (and would like to sell)
any body parts compatible with this model auto.  Also, if you have any
info on places that I can get parts for this auto, I would appreciate
that as well.

Provide telephone number and I will call.

-- 
--
|  	Eric H. Herrin II - {rutgers,uunet}!ukma!eric, eric@ms.uky.edu	     |
|			  University of Kentucky			     |
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: adh@cbnewsi.cb.att.com (andrew.d.hay)
Subject: Re: Overdrives
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 10:49:35 GMT

In article <1992Sep3.183105.6459@mlb.semi.harris.com> jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger) writes:
"
" I'm kind of interested in having overdrive on my project car. It would let
"me run a lower (numerically higher) rear end ratio and retain a fuel 
"economy in the double digits. However, a modern AOD is right out of the
"question; I can't see a 700R4 standing up to a big block Buick for long.
"Besides, I'm kind of keen on keeping the Super Turbine transmission for
"sportitude reasons.

700r4s can be built to take the power of a big block.

assuming you have the st400, you can put wide ratio planetaries in it;
this will lower your 1st to ~2.75:1.

" I know "They" used to have overdrive units which mounted to the tail of
"conventional transmissions, and on fairly large cars too. Dunno about the
"torque capacity, however. Anyway, anybody know if there was a GM offering
"which is compatible with a TH400-style transmission, hopefully one that
"can take 2000lb-ft in low range and 400 in high? Electric would be spiffy
"but strength is key.

i've never heard of any kind of oem overdrive-automatic combination.
in addition, they were generally for use *only* with 2nd and 3rd.
i don't think they were available with big-blocks at all.
none of the american ods i've heard of were electric.  btw, i think
borg-warner made them all.

more recently, some aftermarket outfits have come up with 'splitter
trannies' for use with big blocks & automatics in light trucks; they
can be set up either for overdrive or underdrive.
however, they are probably too big & heavy for your car.

" I haven't seen any exernal overdrives in the 'yards, ever. Did they die
"out in the '50s or what?

they existed up into the middle '60s (still optional on my dad's '65
bel air).

-- 
		+--------------------------------------------------------------+
Andrew Hay	"Do not fraternize with that creature, I am trying to train him"
a_d_hay@att.com	"But that's a parrot!"		"I was TALKING to the parrot..."
		+--------------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique