HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: greg@mariner.sce.carleton.ca (Greg Franks)
Subject: Re: Cantilever Technology;  Scotts are more powerfull??  How?
Organization: Systems and Computer Engineering, Carleton University.
	<BvFxv1.9Cq@watserv1.uwaterloo.ca>
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 21:13:20 GMT

In article <BvFxv1.9Cq@watserv1.uwaterloo.ca> praetzel@marconi.uwaterloo.ca (Eric Praetzel) writes:
   In article <1992Sep27.031651.11152@dartvax.dartmouth.edu> Gen.M.Kanai@dartmouth.edu (Gen M. Kanai) writes:
   >many companies use the "Scott Self-Energizing Brakes" on tandems just
   >to show how powerful they are.  They are almost too much for a normal
   >bike...
      Really?  How on earth can they be more powerfull?  Any canti's I know will
   lock my rear wheel or put me over the bars when properly setup (the difference


"More powerful" should be replaced by "power assited", just like
brakes on land-yatchs.  The motion of the wheel helps activate the
brake.

  ..greg
--
Greg Franks   (613) 788-5726     Systems and Computer Engineering,
uunet!mitel!cunews!sce!greg      Carleton University,
greg@sce.carleton.ca             Ottawa, Ontario, Canada  K1S 5B6.
Overwhelm them with small bugs so they don't see the big ones.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: pardo@cs.washington.edu (David Keppel)
Subject: Re: Leverless quick-release
Organization: Computer Science & Engineering, U. of Washington, Seattle
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 92 22:03:51 GMT

>[Info on locking QR's?]

For hubs, you can replace the QR axle w/ a standard bolted axle.  It
will weigh about the same and requires a wrench and a minute to remove
the wheels.  Not bad for servicing but enough to slow down a thief.

Some hubs -- Bullseye and Phil Wood -- can be had with Allen-head bolts
that serve about the same as a nutted axle.  However they weigh less
than a standard QR and the wrench you carry is small.  The disadvantage
of Allen-head bolts compared to the Allen-head QR somebody mentioned is
that you have to undo both sides, but the time difference should be
small.

The following is about seat QR's, but some ideas apply also to wheels.

		;-D on  ( Theft proof: it's gone )  Pardo


Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
From: pardo@cs.washington.edu (David Keppel)
Subject: Re: QR seat posts ... thieves' paradise
Organization: Computer Science & Engineering, U. of Washington, Seattle
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 92 20:44:16 GMT

ccfa001@hermes.chpc.utexas.edu (Curt Vaughan) writes:
>[Somebody stole my seatpost.  Can I slow them down w/o replacing the
> quick-release bolt?]

If you don't move your seat often, switching to a bolt is a pretty
good soution.  My MTB I change the seat height while riding, but e.g.,
the hybrid I only reset at the beginning of some rides, so I only put
on a QR when I loaned it out where I expcted several people would be
riding it.

If you want to keep the QR, here's what I've seen:

 - Seat Leash(tm) or equivalent.  A cable looped 'round the frame
   and either crimped to the seat rails or looped over so you have to
   unbolt the seat from the seatpost.  You can also attatch it using a
   padlock or a simple nut and bolt, though that seems to be rare.

   Advantges: cheap, not too heavy.  Disdvantags: easy to clip.

 - Lock up your seat using your regular lock.  Either leave it in
   place and use a cable or pull it off and stick your U lock through
   between the saddle & the rails.

   Advantages: weighs nothing more than what you already have.  You
   don't have to buy anything.  Disadvantages: more work each time you
   lock & unlock.

 - Hite-Rite(tm).  A spring clamped firmly to the seatpost.  The other
   end generally goes around the QR skewer (you may need a longer
   skewer) but some frames have a special Hite-Rite tab or sometimes
   you can build one yourself using a strap clamp.

   Adv: A Hite-Rite(tm) is a useful thing.  Disadv: weight, cost,
   added theft appeal, putting it on the QR doesn't slow 'em down by
   much.

 - Sansin locking QR.  The QR handle comes off, so you take it with
   you.  You can keep in in your pocket for about town, so it's not
   necessarily work every time you lock & unlock the bike, you put it
   on when you go for a ride.

   Adv: cheap, not too heavy.  Disadv: a thief can carry one.

 - Regular QR w/ a nut with wrench flats.  When you're riding about
   town you open the QR then tighten the nut using the flats.  Best
   if the QR handle is wedged so it can't be used as a short-handle
   wrench.  To revert to QR, loosen the flatted nut and tighten the
   QR.

After I got my (bolted) seatpost ripped off, I spraypainted the
replacement.  The paint immediately got scraped off where the post
sticks in the frame, giving it a really ratty look.  Over the years,
more paint has gotten scraped off, and it looks even rattier.

Coming soon: designer grunge  :-)

		;-D oN  ( Quick Relief )  Pardo
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: naru@eng.umd.edu (Naruhisa Takashima)
Subject: Wheels
Date: Mon, 05 Oct 92 20:32:33 GMT
Organization: College of Engineering, University of Maryland, College Park
Originator: naru@valkyrie.eng.umd.edu


I have a '92 Cannondale R400 w/ Wolber rims and Michelin Select tires (700x23c).
After a hard ride, (say about two hours long w/ 30 min. of hills on mostly
smooth rode w/ few stetches of bad pavement), the rear wheel become untrue.  
Sometimes it's bad enough that my brakes would actually be making contact w/ the wheel.

I have in the past just trued the wheel using the brake pad as a guide, 
but this is becoming quite annoying.  Imagine having to true the
wheel parctically every time you ride.

So I ask you, what should I do?

(1) Have the wheel trued by a qualified mechanic?
(2) Have the wheel rebuilt? (Assuming it was built poorly)
(3) Get myself a better wheel w/ 14 gauge spokes?

Your comments and any other suggestions will be appreciated,
Naru Takashima
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: sml@yarra-glen.aaii.oz.au (Steven Law)
Subject: Re: helmet mounted lights?
Organization: Australian Artificial Intelligence Institute
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 02:05:40 GMT

hanam@sailr3.enet.dec.com () writes:

>how are helmet-mounted lights attached and designed?

>does the battery mount low, on your belt maybe, and a 
>wire run to the lights? i'd think having the battery
>up on the helmet would be alot of weight for your neck..

>and how does the light attach? drilling holes in a helmet
>weakens it, and i'm pretty sure it wouldn't be recommended.

>considering building my own halogen system. i ride my
>atm strickly in the woods and it's getting dark so early
>these days... 

In Oz, we can get a helmet with flashing LED's built in to the rear. There
is a cutout in the foam shell and a translucent red covering as part of
the soft shell. You press on the shell where the on/off button is underneath.
There is no noticable weight increase and it sure attracts attention from
people in the street.

It's available from K-Mart and is quite cheap. I don't own one, but I have
ridden with someone who does. Called a HeadLite or something like that.
There's also a helmet called something like AirStrike. It's owner wasn't
impressed when I called it AirHead.

Steve Law
From: webel@guvax.acc.georgetown.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Removing Chain-links to reduce slack?
Date: 29 Sep 92 14:18:15 -0400
Distribution: world
Organization: Georgetown University

In article <1992Sep29.144424.11088@waikato.ac.nz>, jrdodd@waikato.ac.nz writes:
> I've got a pretty old bike with Shimano 600 componentry,  and know that
> the chain's pretty overdue for replacement.  However, that's going to cost
> me far more than I can afford,  esp if I need a new set of chainrings (the
> derailleaur's a newy, so that's o.k.).  
> Any advice on taking out a link or two to reduce the slack in the meantime?
> I've heard of this being done before,  so would be interested to hear of
> anything relevent...
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Jonathan.
> 
A chain shouldn't cost you more than $10 unless you go for one of 
the high level ones touted as necessary for the new 8-speed set-ups.  
You might need to replace some freewheel cogs if it starts to skip, 
but I wouldn't think you would need a new set of chainrings.

Baird
webel@guvax.stanford.edu
From: karen@athena.mit.edu (Karen E. Walrath)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: freewheel vices
Date: 30 Sep 92 21:38:47 GMT
Article-I.D.: athena.1992Sep30.213847.15575
Distribution: usa
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology

There has been some talk about disassembling freewheel cogs using a freewheel
vice and chain whips.  I have only done it using two chainwhips, and find
it rather difficult.  

So, what is a freewheel vice do, how does it work?  I have never seen one
in any bike store or catelog.

Karen Walrath
MIT
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: wdb43052@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Hal open the pod bay doors)
Subject: Friction Shifting
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 22:15:50 GMT

I waswondering if anyone had any suggestions for a good friction shifter.  I
have used nuovo record shifters for a while and don't especially like them.  
They have to be screwed down terribly tight to hold the deerailleur in place.
I was wondering if the campy syncro II (athena 6 and 7 spd) shifters have a 
friction mode and if they would work well for my purpose.  They are 91 models.
There are also the campy syncro II (chorus/record 8 spd) shifters.  These are
also 91 models.  Does anybody out there use these as friction shifters.  Do
they work well.  I am mainly interested in the above mentioned shifters because
I can buy them for <$20 (U.S.).  Any comments on good (i.e.  fairly easy to 
move and hold position well) are welcome.  


Wm. David Bentlage                              *Engineering Mechanics
wdb43052@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu                       *University of Illinois
********************************************************************************Cannondale.....All the speed you'll ever need.

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: jdu@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (john.d.unruh)
Subject: Re: Bottom bracket infernal eternal clicking!
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 12:47:27 GMT


Often when the bottom bracket keeps coming loose it is because the
fixed cup is not tight.  You adjust the BB, everything seems cool, and
then after a little while the fixed cup moves out a quarter turn or so
and the noise comes back.

John Unruh
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: CMSC28@maccvm.corp.mot.com (Mark Hickey)
Subject: Re: 1 Re: Advice on chains..
Organization: Motorola
Date: 6 Oct 1992 14:09:57 CDT

------------------------- Original Article -------------------------
<---- Perfectly valid maintenance tips deleted ---->
>                     It's been my experience that a clean bike is infintely
>superior to a grimy (better) bike.  Okay, I have a MTB, but I think therule
>still applies.
>
>-Sean Kelly

This may be true for a died-in-the-wool-jersey roadie, but among the
animals I ride MTBs with, our slogan is..."If you can tell what
color your bike is at the end of a ride, you didn't have enough fun!"
'Course, I guess it *is* a good idea to knock some of the sediment
off before bringing it inside.......
Mark (on your left) Hickey
From: billc@motatl.UUCP (Bill Cutts)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Marzocchi Shocks (Was Re: khs,wheeler,raleigh, ... racing mtb bikes
Date: 28 Sep 92 17:46:59 GMT
Organization: Motorola Technical Systems Division (TSD), Atlanta, GA
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4

steve@niwot.forests (Steve) writes:
: Keywords: 
: 
: its time for a new mtb, seeking experiences with some options i'm seeking.
: I`m looking for a dx (or md) equiped bike with front suspension, under $1000
: shouldn't be a problem with the sales on right now.
: 
: specialized fs - i love it, can't find my size
: 
: khs descent - nice, light, how reliable??
: 
: wheeler - don't know much, don't like marz. shocks
                             ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
: diamond back - yuck in general, plus marz shocks
                 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I've been looking at suspension forks and several people have
recommended this fork to me because of my size - I'm 6'0" and 250 lbs.
But, I've never talked to anyone who has ridden this fork. Is there
something specific about the Marz forks which you don't like? I assume
you are talking about the XC300 - perhaps you simply don't like the
weight or is there something else that you consider a flaw in their
design? If it is purely a weight issue do you have any info on
Marzocci's forthcoming XC400 fork which is supposed to be almost a pound
lighter?

Does anyone have an opinion on these forks?

Thanks for any comments,

Bill.
-- 
______________________________________________________________________
Bill Cutts                             | INET :Temporarily Unavailable| 
Systems Engineer                       | UUCP : gatech!motatl!billc   |
Motorola Technical Systems Division    | #include <disclaimer.h>      |
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: rpcfod@worldbank.org (Robert Patt-Corner)
Subject: Look Release Adjustment
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech
Organization: The World Bank
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 20:19:11 GMT

Pardon me if this is an FAQ ...

I've just installed my first clipless system (LOOK PP96's from last year)
with
the red (ARC) cleats.  Overall nice, very nice ...

I do have a lot of trouble disengaging.  From the pretty sketchy
directions, I'm to rotate my heel *outwards* to get the disengagement
leverage. That works just fine from a 12:00 position or close, but is
nearly impossible at 6:00.  My legs just don't seem to have that much
rotational movement.

The cleats seem to give me plenty of rotational "play" when riding ...
maybe that's the problem ... that you have to go that much further to
disengage?

I've run the tension all the way CCW to reduce without much effect either
way.

Rotating the heel *in* seems actually easier, but only from positions where
the heel will clear the chainring.

And getting out once I've fallen is nearly impossible -- how do you get out
of these things while lying in the road with an auto bearing down on you
(partial grin).

Perhaps I just need to adjust the cleat so that I have less rotational
adjustment on the *heel out* direction.  But is that good for knees?

Ideas?  Maybe I should've bought TIME after all ...
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Built-in steering lock on an old bike?
From: Eric Schweitzer <ERSHC@CUNYVM.BITNET>
Date: Monday, 5 Oct 1992 23:58:28 EDT
Organization: City University of New York/ University Computer Center

In article <1992Oct6.151151.11247@waikato.ac.nz>, jrdodd@waikato.ac.nz says:
>
>The forks were made of two seperate tubes each,  joined at the crown and
>the other end;
>The brakes were similar to cantilevers only involved a few more pulleys;
>And most interesting was the steering lock built into the frame.  This was
>like having a small film cannister welded at the join between the down tube
>and the headset tube (wrong term I know).
>
I've seen a few such locks, on older brittish bikes like BSA's and perhaps
Raligh. Always 3 speeds. The description of the forks has me baffled,
but if the brakes you are describing are rod actuated (rather than
cables), it would definatly make it a brittish 3 speed or one of
their offshoots, still made and imported into the US from (ummm...)
Hong Kong (or Singapore?).(I could check the source.)

The lock cylinder is fixed to the head tube. There is a tab down near
the fork crown (fixed to the fork). When you turn the key, a pin
is pushed down. As long as the forks are turned to one side,
the pin sticks below the tab. (The tab is rather beefy).
The lock works by preventing the bike from being ridden in anything
but a tight circle. Of course, the thief can walk away with it.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: gavind@cortex.physiol.su.oz.au (Gavin Dixon)
Subject: Re: Advice on chains..
Organization: Department of Physiology, University of Sydney, NSW, Australia
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 01:28:24 GMT

>soak it in solvent.  Fine.  I've recently taken to purchasing synthetic
>oils to lubricate my chain.  (Pedros and Finish Line Century).  These
>manufacturers insist that the correct way to use their product is to
>clean the chain with *WATER* only.  Whaddaya do?  Do I soak my chain in
>water?  I doubt that this would have the cleansing properties of a solvent
>soak.  My ritual thus far has been to use water and toothbrushes to
>get most of the grit off.  I then relube with one of the aforementioned
>products.  Thus far (one season) I haven't had any significant chain wear
>that I would call unusual.

Even better...put your chain plus solvent (kerosene) into a sonicator and
turn on for about 15-20 seconds...garanteed to extract every last nasty
particle. For purists, repeat process in fresh solvent. Also good for 
freewheels (damn toothbrush won't fit between the cogs). 

gavin

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: shenry@cs.rice.edu (Sam Henry)
Subject: Re: Since we are talking about pro equip
Organization: Rice University, Houston
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 16:27:26 GMT

In article <1992Oct1.191645.26711@walter.bellcore.com>
kenl@origami.cc.bellcore.com (Ken Lehner) gives a pop quiz:

>I guess all those professional triathletes who use disks and
>composite spoke wheels either 

>a) never pick up their heads to look forward for a couple of seconds,

>b) go faster due to the psychological aid and comfort they receive, 

>c) are paid big bucks by sponsors to use these products, 

>d) actually gain speed through the use of these wheels.

I choose c).

a) I suppose would depend on the course, but there are bound to be
   some reasons to look around once in a while.

b) A very close second choice--the funny bike used by some pro road
   racers have been shown to not be an advantage, and some absolutely
   insist.  I think Klavosol is one.

c) Pros are in it for the money, and sponsorships are more money than
   winning all the prizes.

d) Insert Bronx cheer.


How'd I do?

-- 
sam henry <shenry@rice.edu>
Wanna ride?
From: casseres@apple.com (David Casseres)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Since we are talking about pro equip
Date: 6 Oct 92 20:57:36 GMT
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech
Organization: Apple Computer Inc.

In article <1992Oct5.202330.5336@netcom.com>, tomk@netcom.com (Thomas H.
Kunich) wrote:

[Harry Phinney wrote]
> >I don't remember anybody mentioning 20 mph.  It is not reasonable to
> >expect that everyone posting here has the same riding ability or
> >participates in the same rides or races.
> 
> 20 mph is about the average speed of most people.

Ah, nothing like science.  What is this "average speed," please?  Averaged
over all rides?  Races?  Training rides?  Commuting?  Grocery runs?

And who are "most people"?  All cyclists?  Kids too?  Just racers? 
Commuters?  Just people with aero clipons?

--

David Casseres
Exclaimer: Wow!
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: cs4ec3at@maccs.dcss.mcmaster.ca (Kerr         P)
Subject: Re: Are 8sp Really Needed?
Organization: Department of Computer Science, McMaster University
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 22:18:29 GMT

In article <92280.121948TOM@SLACVM.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU> TOM@SLACVM.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU writes:
>It seems to me, the seven speed cassette or freewheel is good enough.  My rear
>tringle is spread to accept the 8sp, but I see no advantages over the seven.
>In fact, I see disadvantages in weight adding another clog and weekness on
>the axle.  Is there something I'm missing?

IMHO, it's 8sp or nuthin'.  Seriously, when I moved into 8sp, I loved the
extra room on the block.  It's surprising just how much one extra cog helps.
Although, from a mathematical point of view, adding one cog extends the block
by about 15 percent...

Any disadvantage in weight is probably negligable -- weight being more 
important as to who makes the hub not the size or number of cogs.
As for weakening the axle, the axle on your 7sp is the same size as the one 
on an 8sp for your bike and is still held to the frame in the same spot...

Just my two cents...
R.B.
From: alext@devil.ece.utexas.edu (Alex Tomlinson)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Chain Cleaners
Date: 27 Sep 92 22:29:40 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: ECE Dept, University of Texas at Austin
In-reply-to: gross@eecae.msu.edu's message of 23 Sep 92 20:23:20 GMT


> This brings to mind a question that's been bugging me for a while now.
> If one uses kerosene to clean one's chain, what does one do with the
> kerosene when one's chain has been cleaned?  Just "pour (it) out" as 
> above?  Into what?  Is it really OK to just dump it into the 
> {sanitary|storm} sewer?  Or will a gas station take it off my hands?

Recycle it!  Pour the kerosene (or whatever solvent you use) into a
jar, and reuse it from the same jar.  Don't worry about filtering it.
Even with used solvent, your chain will come out clean.  I've been
using the same batch of solvent for two years now.

Alex

--
Alex Tomlinson       email:  alext@pine.ece.utexas.edu
From: heard@qut.edu.au
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: side by side tandem
Date: 29 Sep 92 09:02:41 EST
Organization: Queensland University of Technology

In article <dangold1.717528039@vincent1.iastate.edu>, dangold1@iastate.edu 
(Daniel M Goldman) writes:
> I am not an engineer, folks, but perhaps some of you will 
> comment. 
> You've read about side-by-sides before, but this might be
> new.
>   
>    I propose that two totally independent bicycles could be made
> so that they can be linked together, with certain bracket or clamp
> members built or desiged in.
> 

Interesting idea, but may I make a comment which is not 
totally facetious: it wouldn't be a tandem.

The word "tandem" comes from a pun. It is the Latin
word for "at length" in a chronological sense, applied
as a pun originally to the arrangement of two horses
pulling a carriage one behind the other (as opposed to
the more normal side by side arrangement). Later the
word was applied to bicycles for two riders, one behind
the other. 

I can't work out an equivalent pun for the side by side 
arrangement. 

There is a magnificent side by side bicycle in the
Science Museum in London. It was called a "double
jumper", because the two riders had to jump on it
simultaneously. The museum notes say that such bikes
were the inspiration for the song "Daisy, Daisy" 

Take care -- and good luck with your project.
Ronno
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: jackson@ponder.csci.unt.edu (Bruce Jackson)
Subject: Re: caged vs. loose bearings
Keywords: headset, bottom bracket
Organization: University of North Texas, Denton
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 00:09:13 GMT

In article <1992Oct6.040751.25849@leland.Stanford.EDU> sjlt@leland.Stanford.EDU (Sean Lev-Tov) writes:

>The other day in the library I was reading a bicycle repair book
>about overhauling the headset (my mountain bike needs its headset
>and bottom bracket overhauled now).  The book  said that when
>overhauling the headset, replace caged bearings with loose ones
>so you get 2 more in there.

Good advice.  Having more bearings decreases the load on each point
of contact.  I usually keep the caged bearings untill I start to get
a `click stop.'  At this point I go to loose bearings.  Since they
are now a different distance apart they do not all fall into the
depressions made by the caged bearings at the same time.  When I
raced I used to go a full season before I started to get a click
stop in my headset.  After replacing the bearings with loose I
would get another season before I had problems.

>I'm wondering if it really is a good
>idea and if it really makes a difference.  Also, the book didn`t
>mention this with respect to the bottom bracket.  Is it a good 
>idea for the bottom bracket too, or not?  Thanks in advance.

Depends,  Good bottom brackets come with retainers that hold the
same number of bearings that you use loose (11/side).  In this
case there is probably no advantage to going to loose bearings.
If you have a cheap bottom bracket it may have retainers that
hold only 9 bearings/side.  If you have one of these do replace
the bearings with loose ones or a retainer set with 11 bearings.
I usually use loose bearings on the bottom bracket just because
they are a lot cheaper than caged bearings.

>Sean

Bruce  -  jackson@cs.unt.edu