From: nvecchi@sangiorgio.cscs.ch (Nicole Vecchi)
Subject: Re: Cheese Fondue (long)
Followup-To: nvecchi@cscs.ch
Organization: Centro Svizzero di Calcolo Scientifico / CH-6928 Manno
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 10:43:33 GMT


Classic Fondue (Fondue Neuchateloise)

The chief thing to remember about a cheese fondue is that the cheese must cook 
over very low heat or it will become stringy.  It must also be kept hot, but 
over low heat, so that it will not heat too much and become tough.

Equipment: In Switzerland a fondue is made in a round metal or earthenware
pot, but a heavy earthenware or cast-iron casserole will serve as long as it
holdss the heat and is round in shape. The pot (caquelon) is put in the middle
of the table on a fondue-warmer, which may be a mild alcohol flame or an 
electric hot plate. Long handled forks are necessary to hold the bread.

Cheeses: The choice of cheese if of the greatest importance.  For a good 
fondue you must have a well-matured Swiss Cheese.  American Swiss cheese
is seldom, if ever, sufficently matured to make a proper fondue.  It's worth
buying a cheese marked with the red trademark SWITZERLAND.
 For the mildest fondue, use all Emmentaler cheese.  For a medium fondue, use
half Emmentaler and half Gruyere.  If you like a stronger flavor, use two
thirds Gruyere and one third Emmentaler.  The strongest fondue is made from
well-matured Gruyere.
  Preparation of the cheese: Experience has proved that cheese cut into small
dice melts better and more smoothly than grated cheese.  The latter tends to
form lumps when cooking.

Wine: Choose a light, sparkling, slightly acid wine, preferably a Swiss 
Neuchatel.  The acidity of the wine helps to liquify the cheese and to make
the melted cheese homogenous.  Wines with little acidity are not suited to a 
fondue.  If you think that the wine is not sufficently acid, add a little lemon
juice to help prevent formation of lumps.  (One teaspoon of lemon juice for
each 6-7 tablespoons--3 1/2 liquid ounces) of wine will serve).

Proportion of cheese and wine: Count on about 6-7 tablespoonss of wine for each
6 ounces of cheese.  Since cheese, depending on its kind and age, absorbs 
liquids differently, you may have to adjust these quantities a little.  Start
with less wine rather than more--you can always add some.

How to cook the fondue: Rub the fondue pan with a cut garlic clove.  Pour
in the wine.  Put the pan on low heat on the kitchen stove if the fondue
is to be made in the kitchen and then taken to the warmer at the table or 
placed over the heat of a chafing dish.  Warm the wine, but do not boil it.
Dredge the cheese with the flour.  Add the cheese gradually, stirring 
constantly, not clockwise but in the shape of a figure 8. Increase the heat 
to moderate.  Keep on stirring and don't worry if the cheese does not 
thicken at once.  Flavor with pepper and nutmeg to taste; most likely it
will not need salt since the cheese is usually salty enough.  Stir in a little 
Kirsch (or brandy, gin or whiskey) until smooth and creamy. (A pinch of baking
soda will make a lighter fondue).
 Now bring the fondue to the table.  Once the fondue has been made, it should
be kept bubbling.  Regulate the flame of the warmer so that the fondue keeps
simmering while it is being eaten.
 Toward the end of the meal, some of the melted cheese in the pot will form
a brown crust at the bottom of the pot.  At this stage, keep the heat as 
low as possible (earthenware may crack at this point).  The crust can be lifted
out with a fork and is considered a special treat.

How to eat the fondue: It's important to dunk the bread in a stirring motion;
this helps maintain proper consistency of the fondue.

Care of the fondue: It is essential that the fondue keeps bubbling lightly
at all times.  This is done by regulating the heat, or by turning it off
and on.
 If the fondue should become lumpy, or the liquid separate from the fat,
the following should be tried: put the fondue back onto the stove, stir
it thoroughly with a wire whisk and add  1/2 teaspoon constarch.  It may
also be diluted with up to 1/2 glass wine (warm first). This should bring 
it back to a creamy consistency.
 Fondue does turn lumpy despite the care you have taken.  Chese that is not
well matured tends to become lumpy and to form "threads." Both of these 
can be avoided by using more Gruyere cheese than Emmentaler in the mixture.
 If the fondue becomes too thick because of the continuous cooking and 
evaporation of the liquid, it can be thinned by adding some wine (warm first).

Care of fondue eaters: Do not drink cold or iced drinks--including wine--
during fondue eating.  Traditionally Kirsch is served in the "middle." Finish
the meal with a cup of hot coffee or tea.  This is important.  Drinking
cold liquids will cause stomach aches.



Recipe:
(serves 4)

1 pound Switzerland Swiss cheese (or 1/2 Emmentaler and 1/2 Gruyere), diced
3 tablespoons flour
1 garlic clove
2 cups dry white wine (Neutchatel, Rieseling)
1 tablespoon lemon juice
3 tablespoons Kirsch 
nutmet, pepper to taste
2 loaves Italian bread

Dredge the cheese lightly with the flour.  Rub the cooking pot wiht garlic;
pour in the wine; wet over moderate heat.  When air bubbles rise to surface,
add lemon juice.  Then add the cheese by handfuls, stirring constantly with
a wooden fork or spoon until the cheese is melting.  Add the Kirsch and spices,
sitrring until blended.  Serve and keep bubbling hot over burner.  Spear the
bread cubes through the soft wide into the crust, dunk and swirl in the fondue.

Local Variations
There are a number of different fondues in western Switzerland and their
chief difference depends on the cheeses used.  Very often, two varieties
of the same cheese are used, i.e., a young cheese and a well-matured one.

Fondue from Fribourg is different from the classic (recipe above) in as
much as no wine or Kirsch is used int he dish.  Hot water is substituted
in their stead. Also in Fribourg, potatoes are sometimes used in lieu of
bread.

Fondue from Valais uses the local cheeses and hot milk to melt the cheese in.

Fondue from Geneva sometimes has a handful of peeled, seeded and chopped
fresh tomatoes added with the cheese.


[The Swiss Cookbook, Nika Standen Hazelton]
Newsgroups: rec.food.cooking