HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: bc@Apple.COM (bill coderre)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Infrared Photography
Date: 21 Aug 92 20:47:25 GMT
Organization: Apple Computer Inc, Cupertino, CA

General rules about infrared photography:

1. Bracket like hell.

2. Infrared light is not uniformly present in all light sources. For
instance, most flash units put out very little IR. This is a good
thing, since it keeps the flash unit from melting! The sun is about
the only consistent source of IR light. Photofloods aren't that bad,
in a pinch.

3. Not all meters read IR the same.

4. (There is no rule 4)

5. When in doubt, see rule 1

I once worked with a friend who wanted to use IR flash to capture
candid shots at parties. He put an 87 gel filter (which is "black")
over a Metz "potatomasher" flash. We guessed that we could rate it at
1% of max power. For the first few shots, it worked OK. Then the gel
got more and more transparent. Then it caught fire.

When I use IR film, I usually take 3-10 snaps per picture -- one with
the probably right exposure, one with +1 stop, and one with +2 stops.
Some with just one filter (usually a 25 red), some with all three
usual filters (none, 25, 87).

It's a real gamble as to which frame will come out "right". That's why
rule 1.

mr HEINOUS
gotta love that grain
From: duong@chestnut.chem.upenn.edu (Duc Duong)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: How to take picture in the dark??
Date: 19 Aug 92 12:52:46 GMT
Organization: UPENN Computer Graphics Research Laboratory


  Hello all..

Are there any better way to improve the quality of the picture taking in a very dark scene? I went to Disney Land and I took alot of pictures during the evening for electrical parade. I used 400 Kodak film, Nikon N4004S, with a Nikon 22 flash in automatic mode but the quality of the pictures turned out very very dull and badly. So, is it possible to get a good quality picture (what you see what you get) when taking in a very dark scene? what else should I need to do that? I wonder that how can the pro take




 a lot of beautiful picture about city night scenes. E-mail please. Thank you very very much.

							duc
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: yprakash@mayo.edu (Y. S. Prakash)
Subject: Cleaning, Help!!
Reply-To: yprakash@mayo.edu
Organization: Mayo Graduate School / Mayo Foundation Rochester MN
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 92 15:25:39 GMT

Hi!

	I was wondering if someone on the net could help me out here.  I attempted
to clean the ground (translucent) grid in my EOS 630 (the one which has the focussing
area marked out and is basically a glass rectange with concentric grooves on it) and
I have gone and left streaks on it.  I want to repent for this sin of my mine.  

	Are there any crude, but efficient methods of removing dust specks from within
the grooves?  I tried to go over them lightly with a Q-tip, and with the Kodak cleaning
paper, but I only manage to move the dust particles from one point to the place where 
I lift the Q-tip or paper off the glass.  

	Are there any reliable shops in the MPLS/St. Paul area which would undertake
a removal+cleaning of the ground glass viewfinder?  Any idea about the approx. cost?

	I am not sure if this topic has already been discussed before, but I would
really appreciate it if I could be directed to the right sources.

	Thanks in advance.

			Prakash

---
__________________________________________________

Y.S. Prakash                   1149 First St. SW, Apt. #2
4-176 Anesthesia Research      Rochester, MN 55902 
Mayo Clinic		       
200 First St. SW               (507)280-8199
Rochester, MN 55905

(507)255-7329/7560


Julius Caesar (after conquering Britain):  Veni Vidi Vici
	      (after tranferring to MN):  I came, I thawed, I transferred

_________________________________________________



Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: yz@broca.acc.virginia.edu (Yuan Zhang)
Subject: Re: The quality of Nikon "E" lenses?
Organization: University of Virginia
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 12:24:41 GMT

In article <1992Aug21.133300.1@cc.helsinki.fi> mlindholm@cc.helsinki.fi writes:
> 
>     Are the Nikon E-series lenses inferior in some way to the standard
>     Nikon manual focus lenses (e.g. the AI-series)?
> 
>     Mikko.Lindholm@cc.helsinki.fi 
> The Nikon "E" series lenes were supposed to be a cheaper alternative and more  
of a mass market lenes to the Nikkor lenes. The quality is okay. But they are  
definitly not as durable as the Nikkor lenes. Plus they usually have fewer  
connectors than the Nikkor AI lenes.
> YZ
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: doron@oahu.cs.ucla.edu (Amir Doron)
Subject: Re: F4s, SB-24, what gives?
Organization: UCLA Computer Science Department
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 92 19:18:00 GMT

>Excellent suggestion.  In fact the new Nikons allow you to do so easily.
>Use the SB-24 in fillflash mode, and I think the F4 will  calculate the
>rest.  I've been doing the same with a 6006 and the builtin flash.  Just
>set it to fillflash mode and matrix metering. Presto. Great indoor party
>photos. (Still gotta watch out for redeye with the builtin flash, though.)
>
>
>           John


But doing this will cause overexposer.  The fill flash adds extra light in
addition to what is required fo correct exposure.  In a situation where
you have a dark subject in front of a light background this is what you
want (to equalize the brightness of the subject and of the background).  
But when taking indoor pictures, there usually isn't a strongly-lit
background, so adding more light will just cause over-exposure (which will
be corrected by the automatic printer if print film is used).

Using slow-sync flash will work better.  It will allow more ambiant light
to reach the film, but not enough to make an exposure without using flash.

--amir
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: hchong@netcom.com (Hoi Chong)
Subject: Re: Wanted: Leicaflex SL2 Mot
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 92 05:43:14 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Distribution: usa

From article <86237@netnews.upenn.edu>, by liang@saul.cis.upenn.edu (Chuck Liang):
> In article <976mfrg.hchong@netcom.com> hchong@netcom.com (Hoi Chong) writes:
>>Long before I knew what the name "Leica" mean (photographically), I saw
>>a Leicaflex SL-1 at a shop back home outside US (thought then Nikon was
>>the best).  They wanted only what is less than $100US.  The camera was
>>in very good condition and now I can kick myself for not picking it up. 
> 
>   But there's no such thing as the SL-1.  There's the Leicaflex or
> Leicaflex standard, the SL and the SL-2.  Only the SL-2 is realy
> sought after.  I've seen an SL with a 50mm summicron lens for sale for
> ~$350.

OK, it was a SL. 

>   According to McKeown's 1990-91 price guide to antique and classic
> cameras, an SL-2 mot with motor in "exc" condition should cost
> $1500-$1800.  But I've never managed to buy anything at Mckeown's
> suggested prices so I'd say you can expect to pay $2000-$2500.
> 
>   If I absolutely had to have a motor drive, I'd get an used R-3 with
> a motor drive and send my lenses to Lietz to add a third cam (If I
> needed full-aperture metering).  It certainly would cost much less
> than an SL-2 mot with motor. 

Talking about Leica and motor drive, has anybody tried using a
M4-P with a "autowinder" (original, of course)?  You would think that
a M4-P would be a delicate camera, but each time I fired the camera,
the winder goes "boom", feels literately like a jackhammer, no kidding.
What the hack were they thinking?
From: gsnow@clark.edu (Gary Snow)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Minolta 3Xi
Date: 14 Aug 92 15:55:53 GMT
Article-I.D.: clark.1992Aug14.155553.350
Distribution: usa
Organization: Clark College, Vancouver, Wa.  USA

In article <1992Aug13.155130.708@ultra.com> trentf@ultra.com () writes:
>
>So far I've seen the 3Xi, but I haven't seen the SPX. I was told
>you don't get a pop-up flash on the SPX, but instead you get a
>better mountable flash than with the add-on 3Xi flash....
>
>Looking for truth..

Those are both truths....:-) well sort of.

The hot shoe mounted flash that comes in the SPxi Kit is more powerful then
the built in flash on the 3xi.

Gary

-- 
-----
Gary Snow
uunet!clark!gsnow  or  gsnow@clark.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: ka1gt@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (robert.m.atkins)
Subject: Re: 500 MM lens for Canon EOS wanted
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 19:46:52 GMT

In article <1992Aug14.154505.29923@clark.edu>, gsnow@clark.edu (Gary Snow) writes:
> In article <lmazur-130892164933@winchester.princeton.edu> lmazur@pucc.bitnet (Leszek Mazur) writes:
> >In article <92225.220540U53805@uicvm.uic.edu>, U53805@uicvm.uic.edu (Ron
> >Vyhmeister) wrote:
> >> 
> >> I'm looking for a 500 mm lens for Canon EOS camera.  If you know of any good
> >> deals, please let me know.
> >> 
> >You might want to take a look at Sigma's 500 f/7.2 AF lens.  I've been
> >satisfied with the results I've got from mine.
> 
> f/7.2?!?! must be a reflex mirror lens right?
> 
No, it's a regular refractive optics lens. Sigma claim f7.2, though you might
note their 400/5.6 tested at f6.2 by Pop Photog. It will AF on many cameras
even though it is slower than the normal f5.6 most AF camera makers specify.
When I asked a Sigma rep how they managed this, he mumbled something about
the ROM in the lens telling the camera it was really f5.6, not f7.2 but he
did not seem capable of further explanation. It does AF OK though. I tried
one indoors on a Nikon body at PHOTO 90 at the Javitts center in NY. AF
operation seemed fine.

===============================================================
Bob Atkins  AT&T Bell Labs  email (direct)  att!clockwise!rma
===============================================================

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jacobson@cello.hpl.hp.com (David Jacobson)
Subject: Re: questions concerning old cameras
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 20:50:03 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories

In article <86553@netnews.upenn.edu> liang@saul.cis.upenn.edu (Chuck Liang) writes:
>
>  What are the differences between M, X, and Fp synch?

M fires the flash bulb a short time before the (leaf) shutter opens.
Thus the shutter is open when the bulb is brightest.

X fires the flash when the shutter (leaf or focal plane) is wide open,
used for electronic flash.

Fp fires the flash a short time before a focal plane shutter begins to
open.  You have to have special FP flash bulbs whose light output is
uniform for 1/60th second or so.

>
>  What in the world was an "extinction meter"?

Don't know.

>
>  Also, how can you tell if your hand-held meter uses Cds or silicon?
>(I have a sekonic auto-leader l-188).

I'm not really sure, but I do know that CdS is very slow to respond.
If you expose it to bright light then cover it up and it takes 15
seconds or longer to come to equilibrium, its CdS.  A third
possibility with old meters is selenium.  Selenium is light
powered---no battery is needed.  But at the same time, it is not very
sensitive.  A selenium meter probably doesn't work below about 1 ft
candle.  

  -- David Jacobson
From: serge@mais.hydro.qc.ca (Serge Oligny)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Grainy B&W film?
Date: 19 Aug 92 17:48:03 GMT
Organization: Hydro-Quebec, Montreal, Canada

K_LEPA@unhh.unh.edu (Kristen   Lepa) writes:

>Is there a B&W film out there that is inherently grainy?  I know it
>would help if I got a very fast film, but I like to work with slower
>speeds.  When I had access to a darkroom, I just shook it up a lot, 
>and surprise! it came out just perfect!  Now I have to depend on a (ugh)
>lab.  Too bad the only thing I use B&W for is _nudes_...

>Has anybody else noticed that B&Ws developed at labs seem to be a little
>less than acceptable quality?  I always see too much contrast on what I
>want greyer and too little contrast on what I want basically black and white.
>Can I ask them for "custom" setting do you think?

>Thanks for any help,
>	-Kristen


I would suggest:

   a) Kodak TMax P3200
   b) Fuji Neopan 1600

I have tried Kodak's for night shots... I was pleased with the grainy effect.
I developped it in TMax Dev.  A friend of mine use to shoot a lot of Neopan
1600... the pics he showed me seems more grainy than the one I made from
TMax 3200.  Think he developped it in D-76.

Also, if you want to try the same sort of shots in colour:

  a) Kodak Gold 1000
  b) Kodak Ektapress 1600
  c) Konica SRG 3200

would fill the bill.  I have tried Gold 1000 for indoor shots of peoples, the
grain effect look nice on small enlargement (4x6 or 5x7), there is a strong
yellow cast though.  This can be corrected at print time to leave an impres-
sion of very warm light... As if the shot was lit by candle light.


Serge Oligny


--
______________________________________________________________________________
                                      This is a personal opinion that have
serge @mais.hydro.qc.ca               nothing to do with my employer.
______________________________________________________________________________
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: hchong@netcom.com (Hoi Chong)
Subject: Home printing slide 
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 92 23:22:29 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 

I see in the K&S rental catalog a Polaroid 8 X 10 Processor (incidentally
for $25/day), also a Polaprinter.  Anybody has any experience?
Seemingly it can print 8x10 prints from slides, at home.

How much the thing cost?  How much per print?  What is the minimum purchase
(like 10 per box, or whatever)?

How is the result?

Thanks in advance. 
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: inkari@vipunen.hut.fi (Juha Inkari)
Subject: Making color prints
Organization: Helsinki University of Technology, Finland
Distribution: rec
Date: 17 Aug 92 21:12:48


I am about to start making color prints myself from negatives, and was
wondering what actually is involved in the developing, rinse and
drying process of color print.

If someone could kindly present an overview of the task I could then
evaluate what material I need (and go to buy these & try it).  I have
done lots of b&w and some Cibachrome before.

Can I cope without a print processor ? 

What kind of chemicals are used in the process and how temperature
tolerant the processing is ?

I am targeting at portraits, under halogen lightning (and/or
mixed daylight). I need a suggestions for:
 
  -   Film, about 100 - 200 ASA/ISO, both 120 and 135 size.
  -   Suitable paper for the purpose and film

Thanks, (email and I'll summarize).

--
/* Juha.Inkari@hut.fi */
From: jack@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk (Jack Campin)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Database of lens information? -- Databases on Photography
Date: 14 Aug 92 18:19:21 GMT
Reply-To: jack@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk (Jack Campin)
Organization: COMANDOS Project, Glesga Yoonie

mayr@risc.uni-linz.ac.at (Herwig Mayr) wrote:
> Are there any databases, archives, ... on photography (camera bodies,
> lenses, films, ...) available via internet or bitnet?

There are couple of people who periodically post tables of camera features;
these are a good start in that direction.

One thing I've thought about is a database of film development information;
something that might have fields for:

	film type
	speed rating
	developer
	concentration
	temperature
	time
	agitation frequency
	gamma
	grain size
	test method or source of information
	purpose of this combination
	any special fixing and washing instructions

There's quite a bit of scattered data out there; I'd appreciate it being all
in one place rather than having to excavate the right data sheet each time I
try something I haven't used for a while.

I'm not sure if this is feasible or not - the prospect of including two-
bath, reversal and XP2 development makes a neat logical schema rather hard
to imagine.

-- 
--  Jack Campin    room G092, Computing Science Department, Glasgow University,
17 Lilybank Gardens, Glasgow G12 8RZ, Scotland   TEL: 041 339 8855 x6854 (work)
INTERNET: jack@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk or via nsfnet-relay.ac.uk    FAX: 041 330 4913
BANG!net: via mcsun and uknet     BITNET: via UKACRL    UUCP: jack@glasgow.uucp
From: watters@darwin.genetics.washington.edu (Mike Watters)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Canon AE-1 Program (also) forsale
Date: 20 Aug 92 19:57:34 GMT
Article-I.D.: u.1992Aug20.195734.16718
Organization: University of Washington

For Sale:

	Canon AE-1 program system

	Includes:
		
		Canon AE-1 Program body............$140
		Canon 50mm f1.8 lens...............$35
		Canon 50mm f1.4 SSC lens...........$60
		Seikanon 75-200 f4.5 zoom..........$60
		Canon Speedlite 155A strobe........$15

Shipping (about $5 via either UPS or 2 day express mail) not included.

mike

--
Mike
watters@genetics.washington.edu
Dept of Genetics, Univ of Washington  Seattle
(d) 206-543-1934   (e) 206-361-1156
From: eclipse@netcom.com (Brian McCullough)
Subject: Re: photo-developing, specifically nudes
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 92 05:10:16 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 

russell@Apple.COM (Russell Williams) writes:
: In article <1992Aug11.190609.26057@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk> jack@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk (Jack Campin) writes:
: >that transition?  I can't think of even *one* interesting nude photograph
: >in colour...  since people come in all-over shades of pink and brown, the
: >only visual contrasts you're ever going to get will be reproducible in
: >monochrome.  [...] Redheads excepted too, but they've been done.
: 
: Why take pictures of plants in color? Leaves are all green and trunks are
: all brown, except in fall, and that's been done :-).  
: 
: >And remember that ordinary colour prints will age much faster than your
: >wife will - in 20 years they'll be pallid garbage - so if one motivation is
: >to depict her for the future while she's at her prime, forget about doing
: >it with colour negative film.
: 
: Properly stored color negatives should last 20+ years with little noticeable
: degradation. It might be necessary to make new prints after 20 years. 
: Slides will last 50+ years; Kodachromes possibly longer. Cibachrome prints
: will last longer than most spouses. 
: 
: Either you like nudes in color or you don't. It's not something an
: argument is likely to resolve. If you're interested in longevity, you have
: to take more care in color material selection, but it is certainly
: possible for color images to outlive their subjects.
: -- 
: Russell Williams
: Not speaking for Apple Computer

Mr. Williams and any other interested party:

Here we are, all of us with computers, with an utter revolution in digital
imaging ahead of us, and we hear from a fellow who still suffers from
monochrome bias!  Isn't that _quaint_? 

To the general public following this thread:

IMHO, the decision between color and b/w hinges primarily on the issue of
significant color content.  Since practically none of us is the precise
same shade of pink, chroma carries significant information about an
individual's skin tonality, and hair and eyes are even more so, of course.
I'd be the last to deny the potency of monochromatic human photography,
either portraiture or figure work -- I've done a fair measure of the
former myself -- but let's play fair here, huh? :)


-- 
Brian C. McCullough                                eclipse@netcom.com
Opinions ventured here are those of myself only.

"No tangled skein of stars can ward, I trow,
Who first hath set his tryst with Tristero."  (from memory; apologies to
M. Pynchon if it is misworded)
From: watters@darwin.genetics.washington.edu (Mike Watters)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Olympus OM-1n forsale
Date: 20 Aug 92 19:56:57 GMT
Article-I.D.: u.1992Aug20.195657.16655
Organization: University of Washington

For Sale:
	Olympus OM-1n system

	Includes:

		Olympus OM-1n body.............$140
		Olympus 50mm f1.8 lens.........$40
		Olympus 28mm f3.5 lens.........$50
		Vivitar strobe.................$20
		Polaroid filters for above.....$5 @ (2)

shipping ($5 in US) not included.

All of the above are fully operational and in absolute top shape.

mike

--
Mike
watters@genetics.washington.edu
Dept of Genetics, Univ of Washington  Seattle
(d) 206-543-1934   (e) 206-361-1156
From: gsnow@clark.edu (Gary Snow)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Cannon's 75-300 Zoom lens experiences?
Date: 14 Aug 92 17:49:26 GMT
Article-I.D.: clark.1992Aug14.174926.2947
Organization: Clark College, Vancouver, Wa.  USA

In article <1992Aug13.150901.1@cbrown.claremont.edu> lchen@cbrown.claremont.edu writes:
>HI,
>
>	Does anyone have any experience with Cannon's 75-300mm f/4.0-5.6 zoom
>lens for the Eos?  I am thinking about getting one, and I would appreciate any
>input from the network.  I would also appreciate suggestions for alternate
>lens.   I saw this particular zoom lens for $230 (seems pretty cheap), and just
>wanted to know how this measures up in quality.  Thanks.
>
>	Please respond to lchen@hmcvax.claremont.edu

I thought I would respond to this in public instead of private e-mail,
some others out there might also be interested.
 
I have the EF75-300 f/4.0-5.6 Lens.  Its an ok lens, but not as sharp
as I would like it.  You are probably better advised to get the
EF100-300 f4.5-5.6 USM lens. It has a much quieter focusing system,
and is sharper too. Its well worth the extra money.
 
Gary

-- 
-----
Gary Snow
uunet!clark!gsnow  or  gsnow@clark.edu
From: jay@metran.UUCP (Jay Ts)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Nikon and Olympus Equipment For Sale.
Date: 18 Aug 92 17:06:32 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Metran Technology, Tampa, Florida


Item							Price
-------------------------------------------------------------
Tamron 60-300mm f/3.8-5.6 macro zoom			$250
   Includes Adaptall-2 mount for Olympus or Nikon
   (pick one), Hoya 62mm skylight filter, lens hood,
   front and rear lens caps, extra Nikon 62mm lens cap,
   case, owner's manual and original box.
   Condition: Excellent; almost brand new; barely used.

Olympus OM-1 body with 50mm f/1.8 Zuiko lens		$125 or best offer
   Includes lens and body caps.
   Condition: Old, but fully functional.
   Some minor problems: Film wind lever needs tightening,
   cement in eyepiece is 'fogging' (still transparent,
   but colored), a small screw is missing near the tripod
   socket, the time-delay release button cap is missing
   (but the button still works), lens has a little dust
   inside, and a small piece of what may be fungus, but
   not enough to noticeably impair image quality.

Olympus 135mm f/3.5 Zuiko lens				$ 30
   Integral lens hood.  Includes front, rear caps.
   Condition: A few marks on the outside, otherwise
   mechanically smooth.  Inner lens elements have a
   small amount of dust, and some of what may be fungus;
   I don't know if it is enough to impair image quality.
   This item is not available alone -- please purchase
   this along with a camera body.

Olympus OM-1 MD with 50mm f/1.8 Zuiko lens		$250
   Includes accessory shoe #1; Tiffen skylight
   filter; lens and body caps; owner's manual.
   Condition: Very, very good.  Aside from a few
   very minor scratches (on bottom and back) the
   only thing wrong is that the exposure meter is
   off by exactly one stop.  The solution is simply
   to set the film speed to twice what you want.

Nikon FG with 50mm f/1.8 Series E lens			$250
    Includes strap, original box and owner's manual.
    Condition: Like New.  A few very minor dings and
    scratches.  Has passed about 40 rolls of film.

Terms: UPS COD, shipping charges collect.  If you want to
send me a check up front, I will pay shipping.  All prices
are negotiable.  (The prices of the last two items are
high because I prefer to keep them; however, I do not
*have* to keep them :-)  Make an offer!)

If you would like to inquire and/or purchase, contact me:

Jay Ts
uunet!myrddin!tscs!metran!jay
(813) 979-9169
Newsgroups: rec.photo