HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: sdexter@pike.NoSubdomain.NoDomain (scott dexter)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Specs for Kicker C-8, C-10, C-12
Date: 21 Jan 93 19:35:05 GMT



As the subject says- I would like to have the Thiele/Small parameters for these
speakers for toying around in PerfectBox;

also, if anyone has the same for Pioneer's subs (for small enclosures)??

I would be Very thankful---


Scott


--------------------------------------------------
sdexter@ucrengr.ucr.edu
sdexter@shl.com
			Fight the Rising Cost of Public Education-

				Win the Lottery
From: hhtra@usho21.hou281.chevron.com (T.M.Haddock)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Pro defeats Car Alarm - Here's how
Date: 24 Jan 93 01:35:33 GMT
Organization: Chevron


 Several installers on the net have assured me that this is not 
 a NEW trick and similiar "shocking" techniques have been discussed
 here before.  So here it is:

 This is what the dealer said:

 They removed the Jeep's left front parking light lens and bulb and
 stuffed the socket with aluminum foil.  They then triggered the alarm
 (hit it?) and when the alarm started to flash the parking lights, the
 "short" zapped the alarm's brain before the siren could give more than
 a chirp.  This is suppose to work on most alarms that are not internally
 fused against it.  I was told that my CODE ALARM ELITE is protected but
 not earlier models.  I don't know about any other specific models or 
 brands but I have been told that most major brand's latest models are
 being protected against this.  I was told that PRESTIGE, EXCALIBUR,
 and VIPER alarms are still susceptable to this trick so, if you have
 these brands, be sure to fuse all external wires and/or use relays.

 Then, instead of breaking a window, they removed one by cutting through
 the mounting gasket - supposedly widely known about the Jeep Cheorkees.
 They then did a reverse installation and replaced the window when they
 left.  The owner didn't notice anything amiss until he entered the Jeep
 in the morning and the window fell out.

 TRAVIS
From: jrp@netman.Berkeley.EDU (Joshua R. Poulson)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: New amp from Infinity
Date: 22 Jan 1993 18:07:55 GMT
Organization: Widener University Dept. of Computing Services
Distribution: world
Reply-To: Joshua.R.Poulson@cyber.Widener.EDU
NNTP-Posting-Host: netman.widener.edu

In article <22JAN199310450020@zeus.tamu.edu>, plg3723@zeus.tamu.edu (Hello there) writes:
|> Robert Gonyer writes...
|> >What do you guys think of the new class D amp from Infinity?
|> >The recent test of It I saw claimied it was small, very effecient
|> >(80%), and put out 75 watts by 2. (4 ohm).  Those were mfg specs..
|> >When actually tested, it put out closer to 100 wpc at clipping.
|> >It didint heat up, and it had no problem with great tight bass and subs.
|> >Check it out, the latest Car Stereo Review.  The author raves about
|> >it.  I hope the actually mass produce it.
|> 
|> ..And it would be nice if it didn't cost a million dollars!

Besides the cost, it's interesting to see that Infinity managed to get the
noise put out by this baby down as well. Makes me REAL tempted to replace
my a/d/s/ PH-15.2 with a set of 3 of these little Infinities. Except, of
course the thousands of dollars to do so.

I don't drive enough to put another $3k into the car. I've already done
$4k last year and $3k the year before.

I'll be doing a write-up on my car soon and I'll post it here when the bugs
get ironed out. :)

-- 
Joshua R. Poulson, Systems Programmer, Computing Services, Widener University
jrp@cyber.Widener.EDU, jrp@netman.Widener.EDU, poulson@cs.Widener.EDU, et al.
From: kirk@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Kirk Lindstrom)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: My install--does anyone care?
Date: 25 Jan 93 21:22:17 GMT
Organization: Shredding the water of SF Bay, HP-OCD

Start with your car:  what sort of convertable?  I have an x1/9 that I'd
love to get some better sound in if I ever get rid of the headers, dual
carbs and trick cam which make too much racket to enjoy good music.

Kirk out
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: lmm@apollo.HP.COM (Luis Maldonado)
Subject: Need suggestions for 5x7's, unfortunately!
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 17:14:11 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Chelmsford, MA

I'm in the process of upgrading the entire sound system in my car
(I have a '93 Mazda MX6 LS), and I need help with the speakers. So
far I've installed an Alpine 7525 head with the 5952 CD shuttle. 
The problem is that the car comes with 5x7's in the rear (ugh!),
but I don't want to do any cutting to fit larger speakers.  I've 
seen 5x7's made by Clarion and Pioneer, but that's all. Does 
anyone know of any *better* ones on the market?  Or, are there
any alternatives to these 5x7's which does not involve cutting?

Thanks.

Luis

Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: brian@hopi.eel.ufl.edu (Brian Gentry)
Subject: Re: Pro defeats Car Alarm - Here's how
Organization: UF EE Department (student)
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 93 02:05:06 GMT

In article <1993Jan23.193533@usho21.hou281.chevron.com>, hhtra@usho21.hou281.chevron.com (T.M.Haddock) writes:

|>  fused against it.  I was told that my CODE ALARM ELITE is protected but
|>  not earlier models.  I don't know about any other specific models or 
|>  brands but I have been told that most major brand's latest models are
|>  being protected against this.  I was told that PRESTIGE, EXCALIBUR,
|>  and VIPER alarms are still susceptable to this trick so, if you have
|>  these brands, be sure to fuse all external wires and/or use relays.

My Viper alarm (and all that I've ever seen) have a fused light flash
output so this trick won't work.  Who told you that VIPERs aren't protected
against this?

			Brian L. Gentry
		   (brian@sioux.eel.ufl.edu)
From: wdevine@andrew.cea.pvamu.edu (William Devine II)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: crossover networks
Date: 23 Jan 1993 05:59:36 GMT
Organization: Texas A&M University, College Station, TX
NNTP-Posting-Host: andrew.cea.pvamu.edu
Summary: How to make custom xover
Keywords: crossover

Hi!
   Currently I'm running my system's front staging off of the internal
   amp inside my kenwood KRC-730.  It provides a good 20-25watts per channel.
   I'm also running two 10" subs off of a a Linear Power 2202.  I have 
   a four inch kicker, 20mm D-20 kicker, and an Earthquake MD Cast 6.5"
   per side. (the 6.5's are running off of the rear of the four channel
   internal radio amp.)  The problem i am having is what i knew was going
   to happen when i did what i always tell people not to....mainly
   actually use the internal amp of the radio.  I bought the linear to power
   the whole system and was going to get it set up for 100-250 watt class.
   The only problem is, i have the design for a crossover that will be
   a four way or even possibly 5way. (15's, 10's, 6.5's, 4's and 20mm's)
   or just 12's instead of 15's and 10's (probably better choice eh?)_
   now, i don't know how to wind my own inductors yet but have no problem
   setting up the design and soldering everything together. (EE major)
   I found a reference to an article in the American Physics Journal that
   told how to wind air-core inductors and such but could not find it in
   my U's library.  Can anybody explain to me how they go about winding
   their own custom inductors?  like the ones that are 1/2" inside diameter
   on what looks like an oversized thread spool?  I've seen them in 
   comp's and they look awesome! and the sound from a real crossover network
   makes it all worth the trouble!  Also do y'all see any problems with using
   one amp for the bass/mid/treble?  i've always bi or tri amped EVERYTHING
   i've ever built so this is a new experience for me.  I don't want to
   buy the inductors or the crossovers...i want to MAKE them so i can say i
   did it myself..i hate to pay somebody to do something that i am capable
   of doing myself.  That's a bad habit of mine but i stick to it.
   (even car repair and body repair of which i am now VERY good at!)

   anybody ever built their own crossover (that is, themselves without
   buying inductors?) if so please send me any and all info possible
   on the subject.. as i might be able to use this as a circuits lab
   project! *8-P......


   thanx!
   william c devine ii

--
testing testing 123
laskdjfasd
Organization: Central Michigan University
Date: Friday, 22 Jan 1993 09:37:32 EST
From: John Foster <32HNBAK@CMUVM.CSV.CMICH.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject:    Sub-Woofers in a Jeep, 1 or 2 and $$$?

I have a jeep and of course space is limited, but I'd like to put in some
sub-woofers.  Would only 1 do the job, or does it sound better and does
it make betters sense to have one for each channel?

Does anyone have experience with limited space and finding good but small
sub-woofers?  Installing them myself I can do, and I expect to buy an
external amp to power them.  Right now I have a Pioneer 25W with some
6X9's and it does rather nicely, but when the sub-woofers go in I know
that I won't have the power needed to get the system loud with ease and
clarity.  Another question:  Anyone put sub-woofers in unconventional
places in the vehicle, or is the only (best?) place to stow them is in
the back?

John
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: adn6285@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Subject: Punch 30 vs. sd260
Reply-To: adn6285@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1993 17:00:32 GMT

Of the above 2 amps, which one do you think would be better to power a
single 4 Ohm sub?
What are the specs of both in bridged mode?
Any experience with the new SD series of Fosgate amps? ( I know Kirk has
one of those)
General feeling was, I guess, that Fosgate made good bass amps?
On the other hand people coll them FosBREAK for a reason?
Also, I can pick up a brand new sd260 for $100. On the other hand I saw a
brand new Hi-Fonics Cupid for $160 (Leader Marketing show). Should I break
down and go for Cupid? (money is a desiding factor).
HELP!
Mike.S
From: jcross@aud.alcatel.com
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Pro defeats Car Alarm - should I post how?
Date: 22 Jan 93 21:32:21 GMT

hhtra@usho72.hou281.chevron.com (T.M.Haddock) writes:


> But HOW they got past the alarm was a shock, literally.  I would like 
> to post the details of what the dealer said but I'm leary of drawing 
> flames for posting a "how-to" primer.  Also, it kinda sounds weird
> too, so I don't want to be flamed for posting BS, either. 


> TRAVIS
> hhtra@chevron.com
----------------------------------------------------------------------

I'd have to say definitely. I doubt seriously that posting this info will
turn anyone to a life of crime... Besides, with the combined brains    
of the folks on this system, surely we could figure out a protect vs.
whatever they did. Seems to me, by not posting, you are keeping
information that could prove very valuable. Besides, if its BS,
then atleast we'll know... ('Cause now I'm real curious!)

But, then again, I could be wrong.
-Jeff
From: jeh@cmkrnl.com
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Unwanted Autoreverse
Date: 22 Jan 93 06:37:29 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Kernel Mode Systems, San Diego, CA

In article <14278@pogo.wv.tek.com>, markbi@pogo.wv.tek.com (Mark Bishop) writes:
> In article <1993Jan21.031225.12015@sfu.ca>, kchau@fraser.sfu.ca (Kwok Kwong Albert Chau) writes:
>> I've got an old Clarion cassette receiver (8925RT) with an autoreverse
>> tape section.  When playing a tape, on occasion it autoreverses in the
>> middle of the tape.  [...]
> Bad cassette tape... When the tape is too hard to play in one direction,
> the auto reverse kicks in. The reason: it thinks it is the end of the 
> tape so it should flip over. Generally is a tape is hard to wind in
> one direction, the other direction is easier....

yes.  This can also happen with problems in the transport.  The brake may be
dragging too much on the supply spindle, or the tension or tape motion sensing
mechanism may simply be malfunctioning.  Sometimes these can be fixed by a
thorough cleaning and lube of the deck (but you have to know where to lube and
where not to...)

	--- Jamie Hanrahan, Kernel Mode Systems, San Diego CA
Internet:  jeh@cmkrnl.com, or hanrahan@eisner.decus.org  Uucp: uunet!cmkrnl!jeh
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: gianos@leland.Stanford.EDU (Edward Alexander Gianos)
Subject: Wires thru doors (The Minivan's Door Solution)
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 93 21:00:03 GMT

Okay, this was talked about a week or two or three ago....and I saw this ad....

Auto Sound & Security, Feb 93, Page 47:

"Magnum Shooters:  Don't Wire 'em...Shoot 'em

THE MAGNUM SHOOTER

These patent pending contacts shoot electricity through door jambs,
eliminating the need for wires.  Use for power windows, door locks, 
alarms, stereos, plus many other applications.

1 contact     9.35 set
2 contacts   12.95 set
3 contacts   17.95 set
4 contacts   23.95 set       suggested retail prices

CALL 1-800-852-3228 for a dealer nearest you, 
OR FAX  (605)339-4106   DEALER INQUIRIES INVITED

DAKOTA DIGITAL
3412 Hovland Drive
Sioux Falls, SD 57107

----------------------------------------------------------------

Sorry, but I deleted the nice little picture.  As usual, I have
no affiliation with the company, blah blah blah....

GOOD LUCK to all those who were interested!!!!

Ed
gianos@leland.stanford.edu

Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: fayne@tellabs.com (Jeffrey Fayne)
Subject: Installation Kit Sources
Organization: Tellabs, Inc.
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 13:18:29 GMT

I am looking for sources that carry car stereo installation related
items, specifically adapters to mount a shaft-style receiver in a
DIN mounting space, something on the order of what Crutchfield calls
an 'installation kit'. I'm planning on installing my system in a
'89 Taurus and would like a mounting adapter that fits the original
mounting lugs in the dash.

I'd also like to find a good source on speaker box cloth/carpeting


Any sources would be appreciated.


			Thanks,

				Jeff

BTW: i haven't called Crutchfield yet, do they sell install kits
     seperately, or are they just distributed on a system purchase only
     basis?
-- 
_____________________________________________________________________________
                                             
 F-14             |    _    |             | Jeffrey M. Fayne
   Tomcat         |  /^ ^\  |             | Tellabs, Inc.   Lisle, IL  60532
      ____________|_(  .  )_|____________ | 708-512-7726    FAX:708-852-7346
           --*/--|_| (___) |_|--\*--      | fayne@tellabs.com
              *       O O       *     fjs | #include<StdDisclaimer.h>
_____________________________________________________________________________
From: mgarber@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Max D Garber)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: ++Thinking of adding EQ? Advice?++
Date: 26 Jan 93 15:51:35 GMT
Article-I.D.: magnus.1993Jan26.155135.3029
Distribution: na
Organization: The Ohio State University


I currently have:

Pioneer Super Tuner
Two Sherwood 100 Watt amps
A Monster Ultimate three-way Speaker box w/:
     Two 12" Pyle Driver (paper series)
     Two mids
     Two tweets

I was thinking of adding a 7 or 9 band EQ.  Can you offer some advice/warnings/
or other?  I was thinking to maybe improve the quality of sound and be able
to adjust the sound specifically.

Please email me to let me know what you think.

Please recommend if you can (with prices if possible!).

thanks much!
-- 
1983 Pontiac 2000 SE   1986 Mercury Topaz GS     1983 Honda NIGHTHAWK 650
    'BABY BOOOM'          'MS. BABY BOOOM'           'MINT CONDITION'
"Car-Audio for Sale"     Under Construction     "Bike For Sale-Make Offer"
       'HIS'                   'HERS'                    'THEIRS'
From: cr415@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Adam S. Wang)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Bridging Amps
Date: 25 Jan 1993 19:22:41 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu



 
I just bought a Rockford Fosgate Series 1 260sd amplifier.
It is rated at 30 watts X 2 into 4 ohms per channel, or it
is bridgeable to 120 watts into 2 ohms (stable).  The
salesman told me that I can hook it up to two in-dash 4-ohm
speakers and then bridge the output to my new Rockford
Fosgate 4 ohm subwoofer tube in the back to get something
like 120 watts into a 2 ohm load.  This sounded strage to
me.  Can anyone explain exactly how much power I'm getting
into which speakers, and what kind of impedance I'm getting?
 
Suppose the left-front speaker has leads A(+) and B(-), and
the right-front speaker has leads C(+) and D(-).  The 
salesman told me to connect the subwoofer leads to A and D.
 
1.  How much power is going to the front left speaker?
2.  How much power is going to the subwoofer?
3.  What is the impedance of the left (or right)  channel at 
    the amplifier?
 
                                
-Adam
cr415@cleveland.freenet.edu
 
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: brian@hopi.eel.ufl.edu (Brian Gentry)
Subject: Re: New amp from Infinity
Organization: UF EE Department (student)
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 93 00:38:21 GMT

In article <22JAN199310450020@zeus.tamu.edu>, plg3723@zeus.tamu.edu (Hello there) writes:
|> Robert Gonyer writes...
|> 
|> >What do you guys think of the new class D amp from Infinity?
|> >The recent test of It I saw claimied it was small, very effecient
|> >(80%), and put out 75 watts by 2. (4 ohm).  Those were mfg specs..
|> >When actually tested, it put out closer to 100 wpc at clipping.
|> >It didint heat up, and it had no problem with great tight bass and subs.
|> >Check it out, the latest Car Stereo Review.  The author raves about
|> >it.  I hope the actually mass produce it.
|> 
|> ..And it would be nice if it didn't cost a million dollars!


Did anyone out there happen to go by the U.S.AMPS booth at IASCA
nationals?  We were showing our prototype class D amplifier.  Our 
current prototype puts out about 185 watts into a 2 ohm load.  This 
is a mono amplifier with a built in electronic crossover with high-pass 
outputs.  Notice that unlike the Infinity our amplifier IS 2 ohm stable.  
The measured efficiency on ours is ~93%.  We "burned in" an earlier 
prototype for about a week (at near clipping) and the amp heated up to 
about skin temperature.  We haven't scheduled a release date yet, but
watch for it fairly soon.  I think suggested retail on our amp is
going to be under $600 but I can't remember, so don't quote me. :)

			Brian L. Gentry
		   (brian@sioux.eel.ufl.edu)

Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: adn6285@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Subject: Re: Punch 30 vs. sd260
Reply-To: adn6285@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 04:56:51 GMT

In article <1993Jan25.224633.26379@schbbs.mot.com>, RYNA10@waccvm.corp.mot.com (Jay Kopycinski) writes:
>------------------------- Original Article -------------------------
>Also, I can pick up a brand new sd260 for $100. On the other hand I saw a
>brand new Hi-Fonics Cupid for $160 (Leader Marketing show). Should I break
>down and go for Cupid? (money is a desiding factor).
>HELP!
>Mike.S
>
>******** WHERE CAN YOU GET A NEW SD260 FOR $100? ********
>
>Jay
>
>

At a local store here in Rochester, NY. Expect a rip-off tax of $7.50
on top of that.
Want their phone #?
Mike.S
From: jch@alexander.cs.umn.edu (J.C. Hamlin)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Adjust regulator voltage
Date: 26 Jan 93 22:01:08 GMT
Article-I.D.: news2.C1HEHy.Mn9
Organization: University of Minnesota

|> Is it possible to adjust the voltage regulator of a stock alternator?
|> (To compensate for the voltage drop accross a battery isolator)
|> Specifically '91 Mazda RX-7.

Well, I'm glad you brought this point up.  Most people don't realize that 
dual battery isolators use diodes (big ones) and the voltage drop across a 
diode within it's linear operating range is 0.6V.  This can cause problems 
with the regulator since it will always "sense" that the battery is 0.6V 
low and attempt to charge the battery 0.6V higher than normal, quite 
possibly higher than it is capable of being charged therefore causing 
overcharging and death to your battery.  You need a new voltage regulator 
to compensate for the existence of a dual battery isolator.  Dual output
alternators incorporate a high output alternator, dual battery isolator, and 
a modified voltage regulator in the same chasis.

On some cars the voltage regulator can be adjusted, and on some high output 
alternators it can be adjusted also (either by a pot or replacing components 
to attain a specified value).  On your Mazda, the voltage regulator is 
internal to the alternator (thus hard to get to) and not adjustable.  Mazda 
also doesn't make replacement regulator of different values, so you're stuck 
unable to use a dual battery setup on your vehicle without a new alternator.

|> If not.  What is the cheapest Dual Output Alternator?
|> I hate buying this stuff from car `ripoff' audio companies..

Doesn't that suck.  That's precisely why I'm in business.  If you want 
to get some price quotes, drop me a line.

J.C. Hamlin
Automotive Sound & Security by Hamlin
jch@cs.umn.edu
From: jeh@cmkrnl.com
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Installation Kit Sources
Date: 25 Jan 93 22:20:14 PST
Distribution: usa
Organization: Kernel Mode Systems, San Diego, CA

In article <1993Jan25.132855.28589@tellab5.tellabs.com>, fayne@tellabs.com (Jeffrey Fayne) writes:
> I am looking for sources that carry car stereo installation related
> items, specifically adapters to mount a shaft-style receiver in a
> DIN mounting space, something on the order of what Crutchfield calls
> an 'installation kit'. I'm planning on installing my system in a
> '89 Taurus and would like a mounting adapter that fits the original
> mounting lugs in the dash.

Uhhhh... is there something wrong with just ordering it from Crutchfield?

> I'd also like to find a good source on speaker box cloth/carpeting

C'field sells carpeting.  

> BTW: i haven't called Crutchfield yet, do they sell install kits
>      seperately, or are they just distributed on a system purchase only
>      basis?

*@$%!

ALL of Crutchfield's telephone numbers (as listed in their main catalog, which
you apparently have) are 800 numbers.  This means that they pay the bill.  They
did NOT, on the other hand, pay the bill for the thousands of phone calls and
thousands of tcp/ip network links that were used to transmit your query around
the world.  

May I ask why, since it wouldn't cost you anything (the worst they can say is
"no", right?), you didn't call Crutchfield and ASK THEM FIRST, rather than 
asking tens of thousands of people world-wide???

	--- Jamie Hanrahan, Kernel Mode Systems, San Diego CA
Internet:  jeh@cmkrnl.com, or hanrahan@eisner.decus.org  Uucp: uunet!cmkrnl!jeh
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: ravalent@mothra.syr.EDU (Bob Valentine)
Subject: Re: Words of warning from a "bozo"...
Organization: Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 93 20:34:26 EST

In article <274@aegir.adl.dmt.csiro.au> tjf@adl.dmt.csiro.au (Thomas Fung) writes:
>
>Speaking of alternator upgrades, an auto electrician I spoke to
>says that high current alternators require the car engine revs to
>be high in order to work properly and he advised that the largest
>alternator that will work properly at low revs available here is
>about 65A ( or was it 85A ? ).
>
>Is this true of the alternators available to you guys in the US ?

   Nah, I think that auto electrician had a few exhaust fumes in his
head.  The way it usually works is that a alternator will only put out
 X percent of it's total output at idle.  So a 80 amp alt. will put
out more than a 40 amp at idle.
   Often, the guts of a low amperage alternator can be swapped with a
specially built set of guts to produce a higher output.  The case size
of the alternator is often the problem.  I can get 120 amp GM
alternators from the salvage yard, but they are much bigger than the
common 10SI,12SI, or CS series... bummer.

                      -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                  --> ravalent@mailbox.syr.edu <--