HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (patterson,george r)
Subject: Re: "balancing" a power panel
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Fri, 1 Jan 93 00:52:38 GMT

In article <1992Dec30.201122.18677@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> cthorne@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Charles E Thorne) writes:

<Lots of good stuff about balancing a panel>

>Now, say you have a 100 amp main breaker.  You will have more than a total
>of 100 individual circuit amps.  The 220 circuits aren't a problem since
>each one take half off of each side.  The 110 circuits need to be balanced
>so that at any point only 50 amps is being used from each side.

Uh - if you have a 100 amp main breaker, you can pull 100 amps off each
side.

In this area of the country, the total of each side's breakers cannot
exceed the size of the main breaker by law. Previous postings on this
subject indicate that this is not a universal code.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | It could probably be shown by facts and figures
George Patterson -  | that there is no distinctly native American criminal
                    | class except Congress.
                    |                        Samuel Clemens
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: bsweeney@argon.prime.com (Brian Sweeney)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: vinyl floor question
Date: 21 Dec 92 15:30:30 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Computervision, Bedford MA

Is it possible to put a vinyl floor over an already existing
vinyl floor?   In other words, do you have to rip up the old 
stuff and put down an underlayment and then the new stuff?

	-Brian
From: rrg@rtp.fibercom.com (Rhonda Gaines)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Help!!  Squeaking Floors!
Date: 21 Dec 92 19:55:32 GMT
Organization: FiberCom, Inc., Roanoke, Virginia


The floors in the house my husband and I are renting squeak.  It may
be just our imagination or they may actually be getting worse (you
notice more sounds when there's a new baby in the house :-)), but
it's really getting agravating.  It's not an old house (maybe 15
years??) and it's fully carpeted.  Any ideas??

 -thanks
  rhonda

P.S. Please reply to rrg@fibercom.com if possible, since I don't
     read this group regularly.

-- 
Rhonda Gaines              INTERNET: gaines@fibercom.com
FiberCom, Inc.             UUCP: ...!uunet!fibercom!gaines   
P.O. Box 11966             PHONE: 703-342-6700 or 800-423-1183 x291
Roanoke, VA  24022-1966    FAX:   703-342-5961
From: aem@symbiosis.ahp.com (a.e.mossberg)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Propane leak detector
Date: 27 Dec 1992 14:16:28 -0500
Organization: Symbiosis Corporation, Miami, Florida  (305) 597-4000
Distribution: na
Reply-To: aem@symbiosis.ahp.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: symbi1.symbiosis.ahp.com

gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston) writes:

>Check with RV, "manufactured home", and boat dealers. The first two
>are major users of LP and propane, and can probably refer you to 
>some less expensive sources. I think some boats, notably house 
>boats, use some LP/propane, and may have some that will detect 
>gasoline vapor as well (fire on boats is a *major* paranoia).


Marine hardware dealers will have very good ones, hardened to marine
conditions, for under $100.  Most yachts I've seen use propane for
cooking (except older ones, which usually used alcohol).



aem
-- 
andrew mossberg           systems specialist           symbiosis corporation
(305) 597-4110            fax (305) 597-4002           miami, florida 33166-6202
aem@symbiosis.ahp.com     uunet!symbi1!aem             SPAN: UMIGW::AEM
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: abbott@priory.enet.dec.com (Robert Abbott)
Subject: Re: Gas Logs (Was Re: Maybe you can get FREE gas logs!)
Organization: TP Performance
Distribution: usa
Date: 21 DEC 92 15:22:47    


In article <1992Dec21.191555.26551@nrtpa038.bnr.ca>, Sparky writes...
>Gas logs are also available that don't require a chimney -- have a very
>blue flame.  (Blue flame = extreme heat = clean burning = no CO2).
>--Sparky

Wow, that's one high-tech gas log that burns without producing 
CO2 !!  (Perhaps you meant CO?)  

And it would still require some venting, if not a traditional
chimney.

------------------------
Robert K. Abbott
abbott@tps.enet.dec.com
From: cah@pdx.csd.mot.com (Chris Huey)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: are mortgage points tax-deductible?
Date: 22 Dec 92 20:47:05 GMT
Organization: Motorola, Beaverton, OR
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]

Bob Krull (bobk@sequent.com) wrote:
: In article <1747@rwja.umdnj.edu> majidi@rwja.umdnj.edu (Masoud Majidi) writes:
: >I just bought a house and was wondering if the points that I paid on my
: >mortgage are tax-deductible. I asked my lawyer but he wasn't sure.
: >
: >Thanks in advance,
: >
: >--
: >Masoud Majidi                           Internet: majidi@umdnj.edu
: >Academic Computing Services             Voice: (908) 463-4839
: >University of Med & Dent of NJ          Fax:   (908) 463-5252
: 
: 
: Find another lawyer.

In all fairness to those slimy shark^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^H wonderful people
in the legal profession, unless you're dealing with a tax attorney, he probably
wouldn't know.  Best bet is to consult with a tax accountant.  

-- 
Chris Huey                                               Motorola Computer Group
cah@pdx.csd.mot.com                                      Voice: (503) 520-5215
 "I lost my job last month.  Actually, I didn't really lose it.  I know right
 where it is.  There's just somebody else doing it now." -- Steven Wright
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: marie@paris.erg.sri.com (Marie desJardins)
Subject: Re: are mortgage points tax-deductible?
Reply-To: marie@paris.erg.sri.com (Marie desJardins)
Organization: SRI International, Menlo Park, CA
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 92 00:26:16 GMT


In article <Dec.23.09.18.05.1992.3739@yoko.rutgers.edu>,
majidi@yoko.rutgers.edu (Masoud Majidi) writes:
|> For conventional mortgages if you have paid the points out of your pocket 
|> (I didn't know that there was another way of paying anything)

My understanding is that "out of pocket" is as opposed to having the
points financed (i.e., if you increase your mortgage amount by the
amount of the points, then you can't deduct the points -- or perhaps
you can still deduct them, but must spread them out over the life
of the loan).

Marie desJardins
marie@erg.sri.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (patterson,george r)
Subject: Re: Drywall Repair Questions
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Fri, 1 Jan 93 00:39:29 GMT

In article <1992Dec29.143654.12316@nynexst.com> smierch@fun.com writes:

>1) Nails are backing out of the drywall. 
>
>Is driving a ring-shank nail next to it, pulling it out and filling the hole
>the only alternative?  Hadn't ring-shank nails been invented as of 1964?  
>Or should I use drywall screws?

My house went up in '55, so you may not have the problems I do, however,
I find that the old sheet rock has dried out enough to get crumbly. This
makes it a poor idea to use sheet rock screws - the bugle heads are too
small and punch right through. What I do here is to drive in a ringed
sheet rock nail right beside the old nail so that the head of the new
nail overlapps that of the old one. Then spackle the new dimple.

I found ringed nails difficult to find in this area. The fellow at the
hardware store at which I finally located them told me that the locals
don't like the ringed nails because the heads are smaller than the nails
normally sold here as "sheet rock nails". Personally, I think the ringed
nails are more expensive (partly because you can't buy them here in bulk)
and they're just cutting costs.

Whatever. I found the ringed nails used for virtually all rock work in
the South by 1972, but here in New Jersey, they still use unringed nails
in most new construction.

>2) In a couple places where drywall sheets butt together, the horizontal
>   joint is visible as a raised line on the wall.
>
>What was this caused by?  Bad taping job?  Improper hanging?  Is there
>anything I can do to correcte the problem? 

This is caused by age. Even a properly taped joint will eventually show
up when the joint compound has dried enough. Usually the joints of the
untapered ends of the rock show more than the tapered edge joints.

If you're any good at taping rock, you can fix this by lightly sanding
the area for six inches or so on each side of the joint and applying a
new layer of sheet rock compound. The sanding is optional (I don't do it,
myself).  Whatever you do, *don't* sand into the original paper tape of
the joint.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | It could probably be shown by facts and figures
George Patterson -  | that there is no distinctly native American criminal
                    | class except Congress.
                    |                        Samuel Clemens
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: dwb@cbnewsb.cb.att.com (david.boyle)
Subject: Re: "balancing" a power panel
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 14:57:47 GMT

In article <C041s5.HrE@magpie.nycenet.edu>, manes@magpie.nycenet.edu (Steve Manes) writes:
> Fred Christiansen (fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com) wrote:
> : What does "balancing" a power panel mean?  Why is it necessary?  How
> : is it typically accomplished?  Yes, I know I can ask my electrician,
> : but the Net often has many gems of wisdom which I would not get from
> : a non-talkative tradesman.  Thx.
> 
> Two legs of 110 VAC reside in your breaker box.  A 220V breaker would
> attach to both of them (110V + 110V = 220V).  Your 110V breakers would
> attach to one or the other of these legs.  Balancing the panel means
> not having, for instance, a 110V/20 amp wall heater and a 10 amp
> refrigerator and a 15 amp freezer and all your kitchen outlets on
> the same 110V leg inside the panel because, eventually, the heater
> and the fridge and the freezer will all be running at the same time
> (drawing peak 45 amps) and you will turn on your microwave and blow
> out one side of your main breaker, bringing half the house into
> darkness.  You want to distribute the household load evenly between
> each leg of 110v.

I can understand the balancing part, in fact I'm going to take a look to
see if I require some modifications myself, BUT how can you bring half
your house into darkness?  I only have 1 main breaker at the top of the box.
Do you mean that the unbalanced side will trip all breakers on that side?
							Dave
From: ktsai@BBN.COM (Karl Tsai)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: seeking suggestion on sunroom/solorium
Date: 21 Dec 1992 17:54:06 GMT
Organization: Bolt Beranek and Newman Inc., Cambridge MA
Distribution: usa
Reply-To: ktsai@BBN.COM (Karl Tsai)
NNTP-Posting-Host: archive.bbn.com

Hi there,

I'm considering to have a sunroom/solorium designed into the house
to be built.  I visited a local 4 seasons sunroom distributor last
weekend and, more or less set my eyes on a customed (10'D/16'W/15'H)
version of their system 4 solorium.

I'll put this solorium on the South West corner and very likely have it
heat up a pile of thermal mass (e.g.: concrete slab) to form some kind of
direct gain, passive solar house.  To do that, I plan to have heat mirror
on the roof and regular double pane on the verticle side.

The dealer claims that 4 seasons has been in business for around 50 yrs
and is one of the most reputable manufacturer in that business, is that
true ?  And for those of you who has a 4-seasons product integrated some
where in your house, how do you like it ?  Any things to watch out for ?
Do you think the kind of glass combination I choose makes sense ?

Also, I would appreciate any suggestions on alternative brands or
techniques that is cost-effective in creating an open, airy living
environment.


Karl Tsai
BBN Systems & Technologies
Cambridge, Mass
(617) 873-2285
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: ghg@en.ecn.purdue.edu (George Goble)
Subject: Re: Need Help From Plumbing Gurus
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network
Distribution: usa
Date: Sat, 2 Jan 93 21:51:59 GMT

In article <1993Jan2.203935.21414@cbfsb.cb.att.com> sbrenner@cbnewsb.cb.att.com (scott.d.brenner) writes:
>
>Today, I saw something strange.  I checked the pressure gauge
>a few times throughout the morning, and it was always at about 80
>pounds.  Then, around lunchtime, I saw that the pressure gauge had 
>pegged itself at about 120 PSI.  I noticed that the water heater was 
>on at the time (by "on," I mean actively heating water).  I shut off

The water company has installed a "backflow preventer".  This is
a one way "check valve", to keep you from feeding water out
back to their mains.

When your hot water heater heats water, the water must expand, just
a little bit, but  since it has nowhere to expand to, the pressure
rises violently (hydraulic effect).  The  usual way to fix this
is to install an "expansion tank", a 2-3 gal tank, which has
a rubber diaphram, and it can be connected anywhere in your plumbing,
even the cold water side.  When the water expands, it now has somewhere
to go and the pressure will not violently rise.

I think there also exists something which goes into a toilet tank,
which is just a relief valve like the water heater, but set at a lower
pressure, so when the expansion happens, you get about a quart
added to the toilet tank.. may be cheaper than an expansion tank.
--ghg
Organization: CUNY/UCC VM Systems
Date: Tuesday, 29 Dec 1992 12:09:00 EST
From: Robert Chambers <RMCCU@CUNYVM.BITNET>
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Insulation cutting tool?
 <1992Dec29.131127.23572@nrtpa038.bnr.ca>

In article <1992Dec29.131127.23572@nrtpa038.bnr.ca>, Sparky says:
>I use a razor knife -- not scraper, but knife ($3.00).  Turn the insulation
>paper-side up on a scrap board.  Compress the insulation as you cut it.

Yup, and compress the insulation with a 2x4 or something and use it as
a straight edge for the knife.  Depending on the thickness of it you
might also want to compress the other side to stop it puffing up as
soon as you cut it.

>--Sparky

Robert
From: peters@rastaban.rtp.semi.harris.com (Steve Peters x678)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Air valves for steam radiators
Date: 21 Dec 92 13:23:35 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Research Triangle Park, NC

In article <1992Dec20.174708.29852@sci.ccny.cuny.edu> sukenick@sci.ccny.cuny.edu (SYG) writes:
>>>something is wrong with your system.  The hissing sound is normal.
>
>If it is a lot of hissing, or if steam is coming out,  something
>is wrong.
>
>It could be:
>1) incorrect anticipation setting for thermostat
>2) thermostat problem (anticipator broken,  too much hysterisis in
>    thermostat
>3) incorrect valve rating for radiator
>4) defective valve
>
>If most of the radiators are hissing a lot,  I'll bet it's
>1) or 2).    If it's just a couple of radiators,  try
>a valve with a smaller rating (i.e. if it's rated "C",  try
>"B")  In general,  radiators require from "A" (closest to
>heating system) to "D"  furthest from system.  The variable
>valves are useful,  but the range is not great as they indicate (IMHO).
>(These things can also be rated with numbers, but II don't know that
>system)
>
>>deposits. Unscrew the valve and  soak it in a bowl of warm
>>vinegar for half an hour. This is a 10 cent solution to your problem.
>
>A new valve is from $5 to $15 (or more).
>

I believe my problems are valve related, as my valves are REALLY old,
and I just installed a fancy new programmable thermostat. I'm in the
process of tracking down new valves.  They're really hard to find here
in N.C.  A couple of valve related questions:  How do these things 
physically work?  If adjustable ones are used, is there a procedure
for adjusting them?  How should the valves behave?  I know they're 
supposed to cut off at some point.. are they heat sensative or 
moisture sensitive?   


>>maintenance man suggested purging the [boiler] valve once every two weeks.
>>It's best to develop a habit of doing this.
>
>When the boiler is relatively cool,  l'll open the valve
>and replace water until it runs clear,  about once every 3 months
>in the heating season.  Just always make sure that you've added
>enough water when finished;  check again when hot!
>

I agree with the guy who suggested doing this when the boiler is
burning, so you can make sure the low water cutoff works.  Mine
didn't when I bought the house, but after several times of draining
concentrated rust water, it now works reliably.
From: rstarr@pollux.svale.hp.com (Rob Starr)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 21:41:38 GMT
Subject: Interconnectable Smoke Alarms
Organization: Hewlett Packard CPCD, Sunnyvale CA
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house

I am looking for a smoke alarm which is battery powered and interconnectable.
My situation is that I want to put several alarms in my garage/shop which
is a detached building from the house, and put one in the house.  The 
idea is that with the alarms interconnected, if any alarm in the 
garage or shop goes off, it will also set off the one in the house.

I have seen these at home centers but the units which are interconnnectable
are always 120V powered.  Battery power is a must (not 120V w/ battery
backup).  An alternative (which I have not seen) is a detector with
some sort of detachable or remotely connected horn.

Are there interconnectable battery-powered smoke alarms available?

BTW a hard wire low voltage connection between alarms & the house is
not a problem.  Making it 120V is a problem.


Thanks for the wisdom.

Rob Starr
From: ahw@afterlife.ncsc.mil (Andrew White)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Attic Insulation
Date: 30 Dec 92 20:15:57 GMT
Organization: The Great Beyond

i recently saw an article in popular science discussing rating and
actual r-values of fiberglass. seems a major flaw was discovered in
current installation practice that greatly effects the r-value.
normally bats are rated in a machine that seals the batt and test
the temperature delta given different thickness's. however, when
it's installed there are no sealed boxes around the batts in the
attic. what occurs is a thermal effect whereby the cooler air
descends and the warmer air ascends through the batt. thus with no
air movement you still are getting significant air transfer in the
batt. the solution to the air infiltration was to put the batts in
bags before installing, thus preventing air flow through the bat.
the article mentioned these were imminently going to market in
many of the major building centers, home depot etc.

has anyone seen this, heard about it or have any other info relating 
to this effect? the article was within the last 6 months and in the
home products section
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: manes@magpie.nycenet.edu (Steve Manes)
Subject: Re: Mortgage Applications
Organization: Manes and Associates, NYC
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 02:03:37 GMT
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL7]

Joel Quejada (joel@dseg.ti.com) wrote:
: My wife and I are planning on purchasing a house and I am wondering about
: the things the mortgage company will be interested in finding out, i.e.,
: what are the important points. 
: 
: Specifically, what do they look for in terms of job stability. Will it hurt 
: our approval chances if I, for instance, stayed at one job for only 8-9 
: months before switching? Or do they also take into consideration whether the 
: job change was self-induced or was brought about by job termination?

In addition to the other comments, if you've got enough down payment
cash (20-25%) handy, are willing to go an extra point (maybe) on closing
and have a good credit history you can avoid a lot of the qualification
aggravation by going with an unverified income mortgage.  Since I'm
self-employed and unincorporated and didn't want to pay to have a
profit/loss statement done that's the route I took and it was mostly
painless.  The mortgage company (Prudential) only needed three months
of bank statements, mutual fund statements and a report from my
landlord.  I would advise using an experienced mortgage broker if you
go this route however.  After all the horror stories I'd heard about
securing a mortgage I was surprised how quick and easy it went.
-- 
Stephen Manes					   manes@magpie.nycenet.edu
Manes and Associates/Commontech-NoHo		   New York, NY, USA  =o&>o

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: eliot@chutney.rtp.dg.com (Topher Eliot)
Subject: Re: Water Pressure Regulators
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 92 17:57:32 GMT
Reply-To: eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com
Organization: Data General Corporation, Research Triangle Park, NC

In article <1gt5p4INN5k8@eagle.natinst.com>, jdietz@natinst.com (Jennifer Dietz) writes:
|> We used 1.5" and are getting 80psi (rough estimate of 30gpm).  A
|> friend gave us a regulator to use, but it came with few instructions but
|> a blurb that *did* say something about needing a pressure relief valve.
|> So....  do we *really* need the regulator?  How about the pressure
|> relief valve?  (Same friend told us to ingnore the relief valve).

Installing a regulator can result in sometimes getting *higher* pressure
(surprise!)  This is because a regulator (or at least some of them) also
serves as a one-way valve.  When you take a bath, the water heater refills
with cold water.  Then, with all valves shut, that water heats.  Higher
temperature + constant volume = higher pressure.

Solutions include pressure relief valves (most water heaters have them 
already), or expansion tanks.  Dribbling pressure relief valves can be an
annoyance.  If you don't like that, put in a tank.  The ones I've seen are
about the size of a beach ball.  They contain pressurized air, which compresses
when the water in the water heater heats, and expands back to its original
volume when you open a valve and draw off some water.

-- 
Topher Eliot             Data General DG/UX Systems Administration Development
(919) 248-6371                                             eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com
Obviously, I speak for myself, not for DG.
misc.consumers.house archivist.  Send mail to house-archive@dg-rtp.dg.com
"Ask me about my vow of silence."
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: herrin@turtle.mcc.com.mcc (Jim Herrin)
Subject: Re: Musty Smell When the Heat Comes On
Reply-To: herrin@turtle.mcc.com.mcc
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 19:50:22 GMT

In article 4553@infonode.ingr.com, margaret@infonode.ingr.com (Margaret Wiginton) writes:
> We have central heat and whenever it comes on, the air coming
> out of the vents has a peculiar musty/moldly/stuffy odor.
> We change the filter on the intake (located in a hall closet
> with louvered doors) regularly.  Could someone please recommend 
> other things we might check?
> 
> Thanks!
> -- 
> ___________________
> Margaret Wiginton
> margaret@msw104i.b24b.ingr.com
> 
--------------------------------------
Just aguess, but I'll bet your duct work has gotten wet at one time or another, either due to condensation caused by the insulation around the duct coming off and winter heat  condensating in the ductwork (just like a glass of cold water forms condensation in warm weather) and causing mildew or just a plain old roof leak dripping in.