HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: richd@prism.gatech.EDU (Richard Dellaripa)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Help -- Crate Training Not Working?
Date: 21 Aug 92 20:54:36 GMT
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology

A little more than two weeks ago, my girlfriend got a silky terrier puppy
from a pet store (she knows how evil that is, but the puppy is incredibly
cute, and the saleman was hard sell). For the first couple of days, we tried
simple paper training, but were advised to go with crate training, which
we've been doing for the past two weeks. We generally tried to feed her
twice a day, once in the morning and once in the evening, with walks 
following both, praising her when she goes, and scolding her when she
goes in the house.. However, it doesn't seem to be helping much. First,
on several occasions, within five minutes of coming in, she'll go again on
the carpet. While she sometimes seems to understand that that's bad, she
hasn't done much on giving us clues that she wants to go out...she just 
starts at times. Second, and more seriously, she's taken to going in her crate.
It was our understanding that hte whole point of crate training was that
dogs wouldn't go in the places where they slept...well, she seems to
be going in the crate at least once a day now. Is there something we
can do to convince her not to go in the crate, and to get her in a more
traditional house training track?

                   Richard C. Dellaripa -- GTRI/EOL
        Georgia Institute of Technology, Atlanta, Georgia, 30332
         Internet: richd@prism.gatech.edu Phone: (404) 894-3357
From: blalock@hpl-otis.hpl.hp.com (Travis Blalock)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 17:48:29 GMT
Subject: Re: Introducing a new baby to the dog
Organization: HP Labs, High Speed Electronics Dept., Palo Alto, CA
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs


Hi Jennifer,

First, congratulations on the impending new arrival!  We have a 2yr old
spaniel mix, Chloe, and a 6 month old boy, Davis.  Chloe has been great
with Davis.  When we put a blanket down for him to roll around on and
play, Chloe lies right at the edge of the blanket and 'leans' toward
Davis.  Now that he is getting pretty good with his hands he likes to
reach over and pull her ears and fur.  Chloe is completely tolerant of
all of this.  Once I saw Davis grab her tongue and Chloe just waited
patiently until he let go.  At first her enthusiasm had to be tempered
because she might have hurt him accidentally, but as soon as she got
used to having him around she calmed down and is now quite gentle with
him.  I guess my advice is be calm and patient and things will probably
work out great.  Good luck and have fun!

Travis Blalock
blalock@hpl.hp.com
From: schalene@sequent.com (Schalene Dagutis)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: marking territory
Date: 21 Aug 92 17:58:30 GMT
Article-I.D.: sequent.1992Aug21.175830.7065
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems Inc.

In article <1992Aug21.153440.21843@oswego.Oswego.EDU> tuttle@oswego.Oswego.edu () writes:
>I have two dogs, a pekinese-chahuahua that is 11 years old, and a peek-a-poo who is 2 years old.  Both are males.  The problem that I have is that the dogs seem to "fight" with each other over who owns the door frame, table leg or whatever bag or box is sitting on the floor.  The vet explained that by peeing on something, the dog is saying "this is mine" and then the other dog comes up and says
>"no, it's mine!" and thus this vicious cycle goes on an on and on.  Will neutering help?  Is it too late for the older dog?  Can they be broken of it?  I just 
>moved into a new house, and consequently, neither dog is allowed in it any more Any advice is appreciated.
>
What did your vet say about neutering the older dog?  If he's for it and
you trust him I, would do it.  You should definitely neuter the younger
one.  I'm hesitant about the older one only because I don't personally
know many older dogs neutered at that age.  I know of 2 dogs neutered
at 8 that were fine.

Neutering will not be an instant cure, however.  It takes a few
months, sometimes as many as 6, for them to lose their "urges."  Also,
neutering males dogs that are not being shown or being bred is good for 
the dog's health.   I wish I had my vet manual here I could give you 
specifics....maybe someone else will.

Is it possible for you to reconsider their outdoor confinement?
Neither dog (even though they're crosses) were bred to be outdoors
totally; they were bred to be companion dogs -- that usually means
inside with their owners.  You could inadvertently be creating some
other behavior problems by their sudden banishment from your presence.
Also, moving to a new environment is stressful for a dog.  Could you
possibly find a way to confine them, say in your kitchen, using child
gates or something similar?  

schalene
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: Stacey Curtis <sec@csc.canberra.edu.au>
Subject: Re: New Husky in the Family
Organization: University Of Canberra
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 92 05:14:06 GMT

In article <1992Aug10.193521.12337@porthos.cc.bellcore.com>
24249-knights, krk1@pyuxe.uucp writes:
>As of Friday, we have become the caretakers of a second
>white Siberian husky.  Things seem to be going pretty well
>so far, but I wanted to get some advice on how to handle
>the inevitable scrapping as they work out their relationship.

I have two Alaskan Malamutes and at one stage owned three Siberian
Huskies, now I only have one.  We had problems with the pecking order
when we introduced our 1 year old male Malamute to the 3 year old Husky
male, both were intact.  We found that there was more blood shed when we
interfered in their squabbles than if we kept out and let them settle
their problems for themselves.  One thing is to make sure that you
continue to treat the original dog the same and enforce the existing
rules of your house on the new bitch.  Them fighting for top dog position
is perfectly normal and can continue for the rest of their time together,
although the actual spats deminish with time.  We set the rule that the
dogs were not allowed to fight in front of us and if they did we would
leave the area, with this we found that us walking out of the room
finished the fight immediately when the dogs noticed that they weren't
getting any attention from us.  The other thing that we did was if one of
them was begging for a fight then we isolated that dog until it calmed
down (well as much as a Sib can calm down).  In the end the dogs got
along together very well with the only fights starting when someone new
to the situation gave one dog more attention than the other.  

BTW, we noticed with our dogs that if we did have to seperate them during
a fight you have to talk to them in a calm voice and not hype them up
more and very carefully put your hands between their faces they  would
not risk biting us and broke up immediately.  Don't try this unless you
have someone who can take you to the hospital though as their jaws are
very strong and would do you a lot of damage if this failed.  We have
been told that these breeds will not intentionally bite a human for no
good reason unless it is an accident.  Believe what you will.

Good Luck
Stacey Curtis
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: millios@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (william.l.millios)
Subject: Custom Paw-print Shirts, Slacks, and Skirts
Organization: AT&T
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 21:56:13 GMT

My 6 month old Chesapeake has developed (well, never really lost)
this annoying habit of jumping on people.

She doesn't jump on me - I've trained that out of her.  She won't
jump on people that I've explained the "squeeze paws" technique
to.

But the little old lady walking down the street in the opposite
direction is fair game.  No kidding, this dog is in a perfect
heel, and we walk by this little old lady.  I'm watching the
dog out of the corner of my eye, no reaction.  The lady gets
right next to us, and Sarah is *all over* this woman.

I'm concerned that I may have to purchase a cellular phone
so I can call 911 when this dog gives somebody cardiac arrest.

How can I train her not to jump on people?  When we "greet"
people, she's pulling at the leash so hard as to choke herself,
but the connection doesn't click.  "Oh, gee, this leash thing
is killing me, maybe I better back off a bit."  I have to
stand on the leash, so that she's restrained from jumping
while the nice old lady pets her on the head.  "My, isn't
she feisty!"

Bill
Organization: The American University - University Computing Center
Date: Tuesday, 18 Aug 1992 11:41:37 EDT
From: <ASOLOMO@auvm.american.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: FREE: Flexi-lead 1 for an adopted pooch

   We have a Flexi-lead model 1, for small dogs or normal cats, which our
   cat resoundingly rejected.  It's in perfect condition, and not being used.
   We'd like to offer it for free to anyone who adopted their dog from a
   rescue organization, and can pick it up here in suburban Maryland --
   convenient to D.C., MD, VA.  Fine for toy to beagle-sized dogs.  We
   may also be able to find the harness to go with it, if you want it.

                        Ari & Sil
                        E-Mail to ASOLOMO@AUVM.american.edu
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: jkjncs@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Subject: Re: help with retriever problem
Reply-To: jkjncs@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 16:39:00 GMT

In article <168488552.X005CB@tamvm1.tamu.edu>, X005CB@tamvm1.tamu.edu 
(Chris Barnes) writes:
>In article <1992Aug18.212606.25134@newshost.lanl.gov>
>  srlee@beta.lanl.gov (Stephen R Lee) writes:
> 
>>>  ...my description of using a shock collar and
>>>     video camera deleted to save space.....
> 
>>Is'nt this just a wee bit on the elaborate side?

I agree
>Perhaps.  But I did see it work....

Not always a good reason...

>Recall that the problem pooch didn't chew on things when she was
>home.  Kinda hard to give a command when you're not there.  For those

Wrong - re-read the post:

In article <3533@eastman.UUCP>
   garrison@kodak.com (Laurie Garrison) writes:
 
>i posted this question before, but i got no replies so i am
>trying again.  i have a three year old golden named Indy.
>this is the problem:  Indy does not destroy anything when
>i am not home.  when i *am* home, Indy seems to spend all of sher
>time looking for things to pick up and eat, like socks, underwear,
>used kleenix, shirts, remote controls, my glasses, etc.  if i don't 
>catch sher, she EATS them.  as in *gone*. she has eaten two pairs 
>of my glasses,

It sounds to me like Indy wants Laurie's attention and is very manipulative
at getting it. A friend of mine had this problem with their Brittany. To
solve the problem, they:
* took the dog to obedience class (Laurie, you're in my area, so feel free
  to e-mail me for info on local training schools); this helped in both
  controlling the dog and in maintaining the pack order (owners giving 
  commands are alpha)
* increased the correction for stealing - a good correction was to take
  the dog by the loose skin on the sides of the neck and lift the front
  of the dog off the ground, shaking her a bit, and scolding in low, 
  growly tones. Then ignore the dog for at least 5 minutes.
* uped the amount of exercise the dog gets; the obedience classes also
  helped increase the amount of attention the dog got.
* tried to be neater about leaving things lying around the house
* tried not to laugh or show any amusement when the dog 
  takes stuff she shouldn't - this is not always easy - my friend's Brittany
  liked to raid the laundry basket and would often fly around with various
  undergarments stuck to her face :+) - but, laughing will only encourage
  them.

To me, being in control of my dog means that I can always remove something
from his mouth; you should ask your obedience instructor to help you with
this and practice it often, since removing things from Indy's mouth will
also help maintain your status as leader.

Good Luck

********************************************************
* jane jackson and murphy b. lab, Am/Can CD, CGC, TDI  *
* jkjncs@ritvax.isc.rit.edu                            *
*                                                      *
* standard disclaimer applies...                       *
********************************************************
From: cooley@hal9000.Eng.Sun.COM (Aaron Cooley)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Crating at night
Followup-To: cooley@hal9000.Eng.Sun.COM
Date: 15 Aug 1992 00:15:09 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems
Distribution: world
Reply-To: cooley@hal9000.Eng.Sun.COM trixi@hal9000.Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: hal9000

I am having a hard time convincing my SO that crating our 4 mo. old pup
during the day (6 hrs, with a break) and at night (another 6 hrs) is a
good thing.  She agrees with me marginally that the dog should be
crated during the day, but insists that to crate him at night is too
much time in the crate and isn't necesary since the dog does not do any
business in our bedroom anyway (don't ask me why, he just won't).  I
insist that the dog should accept the crate as his den, and therefore,
should be put in it during the day and any time he is in our bedroom
sleeping in the spot that he was sleeping in before we got the crate.
Can someone give me a reference or something that I can use to convince
here that crating is not cruel to the dog, and that to accept the crate
the dog should be in there whenever it wants to sleep in our bedroom,
and not just when it's in danger of soiling something?

I've been crating the dog for 3 day now, and although he doesn't really
like being locked in there during the day (he was comming to work with
me, but someone decided that a dog asleep in my office was
unprofessional for some reason), he dosn't complain too badly and is
starting to go in the crate on command.  Is this typical?

--aaron
From: kathleen.brewer@cutting.hou.tx.us (Kathleen Brewer) 
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: Blue Dobermans
Date: 14 Aug 92 17:53:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: The Cutting Edge - Houston, TX - 713-466-1525
Reply-To: kathleen.brewer@cutting.hou.tx.us (Kathleen Brewer) 

TO: winders@aux.support.apple.com

SW>Breeding blue to blue in Dobes does not increase the risk of new
SW>genetic problems. Nor, in Dobes, does it increase the risk of any
SW>problems not normally associated with blues Dobes.

SW>People that makes statements like the one above need to learn a little
SW>more about genetics so they do noit perpetuate false information.

Excuse me Scott, this article with a picture was in the "Dog Fancy"
Magazine. It was an article concerning "Albino" Dobes. They have pink
eyes and can not be allowed in the sun. The people that decided to breed
this abomination used Blue Dobes until they bred out the pigmintation!!

Kathleen.Brewer@cutting.hou.tx.us
---
 . OLX 2.1 . CATS: Good for dusting high places!
                                                                                                    
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: slansky_doug@macn15.rtsg.mot.com
Subject: Re: FREE German Shep Puppy
Organization: CSG Group
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 20:47:43 GMT

In article <5083@unixhub.SLAC.Stanford.EDU> krieger@egnext3.SLAC.Stanford.EDU
(Karen Krieger) writes:
>I have a friend who has a 4 1/2 month old puppy which his show quality  
>bitch whelped. We would like to find someone who is interested in taking  
>this puppy. 
>
>The reason why it is free, is that it has fallen pasterns. 
>He had sold the GSD (a female) but since the new owners did not inform him  
>of the problem until it was too late, they have now returned it to him. I  
>have seen other puppies with this condition, but it was corrected with  
>diet and vitamins. 
>
>This puppy is healthy, keeps up with its sister and mother, and otherwise  
>a beautiful dog. It just looks kinda funny! The vet said that it would be  
>fine and wouldn't have any more problems than other dogs - just that it  
>may scrape its pads a bit more. You would be welcome to talk to this vet  
>to get the scoop yourself. 
>
>Thanks.
>
Excuse my ignorance, but what are fallen pasterns?

Thanks,

Doug
From: bill@gaza.uhcc.Hawaii.Edu (William J. King)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Dogs Sleep how long...on the average per day?
Date: 14 Aug 92 03:15:06 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Hawaii


o	Any estimates on how long a dog sleeps each day?
	thanx
	wm
--
    bill@uhunix.bitnet 
    bill@uhunix.uhcc.Hawaii.Edu 
    21.19 N.LAT by 157.52 W.LONG          
    Fish on the Byte
From: X005CB@tamvm1.tamu.edu (Chris Barnes)
Subject: Re: Training Golden Retreiver Puppy
Organization: Texas A&M University
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 14:41:20 GMT

In article <_84m2wa@lynx.unm.edu>
    joker@triton.unm.edu (The Evil Tou-Fu) writes:
 
> How do I properly train her? Will goldens settle down a               s
> they get older? If so how old?
 
Probably a little (very little).  It's the nature of the breed to be
"hyper".  Usually at about 2 years, she will settle a little.  She
might calm down more in old age, but maybe not.
 
 
>	I have been playing fetch with her with a tennis ball, she will get
>it sometimes, but other times she will sniff it and ignore it, how do I
>trainer her to properly retrieve?
 
The answer to this question is best answered in about 150 - 200 pages
of text, which have already been written.
 
Get 2 books:
 
"Water Dog" by Richard Wolters
"Gun Dog" by Richard Wolters
 
(can you tell I like Wolters ?)
 
I don't mean to sound flippant, but he really does do a good job at
going step-by-step into retriever training.
 
      ----------------------------------------------
Chris Barnes            |
x005cb@tamvm1.tamu.edu  |  Only 20 more days until the start of
(409) 846-3273 (home)   |           hunting season (in Texas)
(409) 845-8454 (work)   |
From: millios@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (william.l.millios)
Subject: Re: CHD ( Hip displaysia)
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 17:11:11 GMT


On the topic of not feeding puppy food past six months...

I switched to adult Iams at early 5 months.  Since then, there has
been a *noticeable* decrease in growth rate.  With puppy food, I
was returning home to find a dog that was 2 inches bigger, and 
5 pounds heavier.  :^)

Now, it's slow and steady.

No idea about the impact on the hips, tho, but I do feel that
a slow steady growth is easier on the dog than shooting all
over the place like a weed.

Bill
From: genea@geneapcSanDiego.NCR.com (Gene Anderson)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Bloodhound wanted
Date: 14 Aug 92 14:30:55 GMT
Reply-To: genea@geneapcSanDiego.NCR.com (Gene Anderson)
Organization: NCR Engineering and Manufacturing, San Diego, CA

I'm looking for a Bloodhound to rescue.  I'm a software engineer,
DINK (Double Income No Kids) with a great environment for dogs
who want to be spoiled; got a shep/beagle male to prove it.

thanks,

gene

reply genea@raider.sandiego.NCR.COM

(619)485-2508 ~7:30am to 3:30pm Pacific Daylight Time
From: dean@sweetpea.jsc.nasa.gov (Jack Dean)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: help with retriever problem (with question)
Date: 21 Aug 92 20:56:12 GMT
	<172vi2INNrri@moe.ksu.ksu.edu> <2A95220A.9867@ics.uci.edu>
Organization: McDonnell Douglas Space Systems Company

In <172vi2INNrri@moe.ksu.ksu.edu> terry@eece.ksu.edu (Terry Hull) writes:
>How do the rest of you walk 3 or more dogs at the
>same time?

 Cindy> One at a time!

 Cindy> Then again, these dogs (NOT mine) are not properly trained.  You can't
 Cindy> do it if they all lunge on the leash at the same time and their
 Cindy> combined weight is about 2.5 times yours...

I routinely walk four greyhounds at one time; two my own and up to two
recently retired greyhounds that I am fostering.  I walk two dogs on
each side.  I grab the loop at the end of the leads with the thumb of
the opposite hand, and grab both leads near the collars with the hand
on the same side.  It gets real exciting when I walk by the park and a
squirrel runs by, but I am able to keep control at all times, even
though the foster dogs have had no training.

Of course greyhounds are typically quite well behaved on lead even
without training, and seem to take naturally to walking in close
proximity to each other.


--
Jack Dean                         dean@sweetpea.jsc.nasa.gov
From: lb2r+@andrew.cmu.edu (Lorraine Blasik)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Mastiff rescue clubs?
Date: 19 Aug 92 19:22:15 GMT
Organization: Comp & Comm - Administration, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA

Can someone out there please post the telephone # for the club, I'm in
the Pittsburgh, PA area.  I lost the original post.


Thanks bunches
-lori
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: rgoldstone@OAVAX.CSUCHICO.EDU (Robin, Girl Wonder)
Subject: dog digs holes
Reply-To: rgoldstone@OAVAX.CSUCHICO.EDU
Organization: California State University, Chico
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 15:39:37 GMT

I am having a problem with my dog digging holes in my back yard.  He is 1 year
old, and has done this in the past, infrequently.  However, several weeks ago
he began digging more frequently.  When I come home from work and find a hole,
I reprimand him as follows: drag him out to the hole by his collar, yell at
him very loudly in as deep a voice as I can, "spank" him repeatedly, and push
his nose into the hole and rub dirt on his face.  Maybe that sounds severe to
some people, but from what I have read in books, and in this newsgroup, this
is appropriate discipline.  After disciplining the dog, I send him "to bed" 
and ignore him for a while, maybe a half hour.  Then I treat him normally.

The result of this has been that my dog definitely now knows it is wrong to
dig holes.  I know he knows this, because if I come home from work on a day
when he has not dug a hole, he comes out to greet me, wagging his tail.  If
I come home on a day that he has dug a hole, he will not come out at all.  
Instead I find him hiding, with his tail between his legs, looking very
distraught.  He pees a little when he sees me, then cowers, as if waiting
for his punishment.  I have been very consistent with his reprimands, thinking
that eventually he will quit doing it.  But he hasn't.

I don't know what else to do.  It is very emotionally draining for me to
punish him this way.  It makes me sick to do it.  And it doesn't seem to be
working: he knows it is wrong, but he does it anyways.  I am pretty sure
he does it out of boredom.  He is home alone for 8 hours a day.  He has 
free run of the back yard, plus the garage and laundry room of the house.
He has plenty of toys.  He never digs in the same place.

I would appreciate any suggestions of alternative things I can try to
break him of this digging.  I know about chili pepper and balloons, but
like I said he digs in a different place every time, so I would not be able
to anticipate the next spot.  I can't imagine crating him all day.  This 
is unacceptable to me.  (He was crate trained as a pup and he sleeps in his
crate.  I am a believer in crate training, but not confinement for 8 hours.)
Get another dog?  Maybe.  I go back and forth.  Maybe a second dog would
keep him occupied all day and he wouldn't dig.  But then again, maybe two
dogs will mean twice as many holes in my yard...

-Robin
***********************************************************************
Robin Goldstone, Systems Software Specialist
California State University, Chico  Computing Services
rgoldstone@oavax.csuchico.edu
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: davids@gardener.lanl.gov (David Simmons)
Subject: Re: looking for new dog suggestions
Originator: davids@feynman.lanl.gov
Organization: Los Alamos National Laboratory
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 17:38:06 GMT


In article <168469473.X005CB@tamvm1.tamu.edu>, X005CB@tamvm1.tamu.edu (Chris Barnes) writes:
|> In article <winders-140892150619@macwinders.support.apple.com>
|>     winders@aux.support.apple.com (Scott Winders) writes:
|>  
|> >If someone wants to take a hunting dog and make it a perfect companion,
|> >let them.
|>  
|>  
|> No.  Not without a fight.  Not with MY breed.
|>  

I'd be interested in finding out how you got to own an entire BREED?

I just own a dog, and to my knowledge, no one owns the breed, or do they?

;-)
-- 

David G. Simmons
davids@lanl.gov

If I said it, LANL didn't... 

-- 

David G. Simmons
davids@lanl.gov

Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs