HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: 3px@mace.cc.purdue.edu (Lisa Michelle Purvis)
Subject: [F] What causes Dropsy?
Followup-To: poster
Keywords: Oranda
Organization: Purdue University
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 18:57:48 GMT

Hi, everyone.

I'm new to this newsgroup as well as to keeping fish, but I
have a couple of questions.  I have a 30 Gal. tank with undergravel 
filter and I have Orandas and Ranchus.  Last night, (knew it was 
coming) after 3-4 weeks of battling dropsy, my biggest (and favorite 
Oranda) died from dropsy.  So, my question is:  what causes dropsy 
and is there anything that I can do to prevent it?  I don't want to 
watch my other fish suffer through dropsy like my Orange Cap did (an
awful disease.) 

Also, if anyone out there has Orandas, Ranchus, etc. and likes to talk
about them, I'd love to e-chat with you. 

Thanks for any input.  I really appreciate it!

<<Lisa Purvis
  3px@mace.cc.purdue.edu

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: gchalk@nyx.cs.du.edu (Geoff Chalk)
Subject: Help.....babies..
Organization: Nyx, Public Access Unix at U. of Denver Math/CS dept.
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 93 23:41:43 GMT

Help,  I have a 10 gal fresh water tank, I have one black molley, and three
(one male, two female) red velvet swordtales.

one of the female swordtales gave birth last night and there seems to be 
about six babies that have survived.

what do I need to do, I turned off the power filter so they wouldn't get sucked I also took the 4 adult fish and put them in another tank for the time being.

I have lots of floating real plants in which the babies were hiding in
untill I took the adults out, now the babies are swimming around the tank.


what kind of food do I need to get for the babies?
 
do I need to do anything different with the amount of time the
light is on in the tank??
 

thanks for all your help


geoff

 
-- 
Geoff@GCNeXT.gac.PeachNet.edu   |  OS/2.....
gchalk@nyx.cs.du.edu            |       ....Anything else is just DOS.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: brunner@crchh447.bnr.ca (James Brunner)
Subject: Re: (F) [F] Severums in a community?
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 21:28:54 GMT
Reply-To: brunner@crchh447.bnr.ca (James Brunner)
Organization: BNR, Inc.

I have had a green severum for 3-4 years.  I got it when it was the size of
a nickel.  It's now 7 to 8 inches long, 4 to 5 inches tall and about an inch
and a half "thick".

I would certainly say that 2 in a 30 gallon is too much.  I have one in a
26 and he seems to be doing OK, but at it's current size, I think it's
getting too big.

I have not noticed much agression out of this fish (although I wouldn't
trust it with something bite size).  I have it with a LARGE black ghost
and a rope fish (odd combination huh).  The black ghost chases it around
quite a bit and the severum never seems to fight back.  I kept a buenas aires
tetra with this combo for quite a while before he "disapeared" (but I'd lay
money that it was the ghost, not the severum).  The most violent the severum
seems to get is that he loves to butt heads with himself in the mirrored back
of the tank.

This is (in my experience) a very hardy fish.  It loves duro-min and can
easily be trained to take it from your hand.  I used to have mine jump 1 to
2 inches from the water to take it from my hand.  Now he eats from my hand
but I don't make him jump (don't want to soak the carpet).
-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jim Brunner - (brunner@bnr.ca)
All opinions are my own and have nothing whatsoever to do with BNR, NT,
NTI, Bell Canada, or any of the BCE corporations or affiliates.
From: brucehuy@hardy.u.washington.edu (Want to play CONQUEST?)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Green and Black Brine Shrimp?
Date: 26 Jan 1993 00:23:00 GMT
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Distribution: na
Reply-To: brucehuy@u.washington.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: hardy.u.washington.edu

I have a colony of brine shrimp that I have been raising for the last month,
in the last week I've noticed that some of the brine shrimp have turned
green or black.  I'm not exactly sure if the shrimp have suddenly turned this 
color, or if they just have grown to a large enough size to notice the 
coloration.  Does anybody know what is going on, or why?  Or if it would be
a good or bad idea to feed them to my fish.  Right now, I'm pretty clueless 
and would appreciate ANY help.

huy phung
From: pete@introl.com (Pete Ikusz)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [F] flying fox vs. pl*co
Date: 25 Jan 93 09:43:25 GMT
Article-I.D.: introl.1k1mtt$k41
Organization: Introl Corp.
NNTP-Posting-Host: introl.introl.com

In article <erik.114.727989471@marge.phys.washington.edu> erik@marge.phys.washington.edu (Erik D. Olson) writes:
>Pekoltia, Plecostomas, and Hypostomus are all members of the Loricaradae
>family of catfish.  Pekoltia and Hypostamus are distinct genus; I can never 
>figure out if Plecostamus is a genus or the species H. plecostamus.  In 
>any case, they all get called plecos as common names.  Pekoltia are smaller 
>than Hypostamus, and I've seen them as "clown pleco"'s in some local 
>places.  No clue on ancestrus.  Also no clue on how to spell any of the 
>above correctly!
>
>   Erik
Thanks for elightening me, it helped considerably.

-Pete

BTW: Does anyone have any recommendations for a brackish water bottom
dweller or algae eater?
(Just to round of my current grouping of
fish: 5 Monos, 3 Archers, 5 Red Chromides)

Thanks....
-- 
-------------------------------------------------------
Pete Ikusz	Introl Corporation	pete@introl.com
From: igorl@uiuc.edu (Igor Livshits)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [M] Salt mixes
Date: 27 Jan 93 21:08:56 GMT
Organization: NCSA
X-Xxdate: Wed, 27 Jan 93 21:00:25 GMT
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d17
X-Xxmessage-Id: <A78C5409860114C6@spiff.ncsa.uiuc.edu>

Okay, I'll try to represent the low scale mixes:

I do a one gallon water change daily (58g reef).  I mix the salt gallon
with plain tap water, a few drops of dechlorinator, and two quarter cups
of Instant Ocean in a plastic one gallon jug.  Sometimes I put heaping
quarter cups, sometimes I leave them a bit shy -- depends on what my s.g.
reads.  Sometimes I put a bit over a gallon, sometimes a bit less.  I
always use cold water.

I drop the dechlorinator into a rinsed jug, I fill with briskly running
water to get the dechlorinator well mixed.  Then, I drop in the salt, cap
the jug, and invert it 2 to 4 times.  The entire process takes about 2
minutes, and all the salt dissolves quite well (perhpas a suspension
persists for a short while, but it always clears).  I then let the water
sit for 24 hours and use it the next day.  I don't remember ever seeing
any sediment; thus, I am perfectly happy with Instant Ocean.

Cheers, Igor
 
_____
NCSA-UIUC,  e:igorl@uiuc.edu,  p:(217) 244-5606
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: Dmerrill@bnr.ca (Dana Merrill)
Subject: Re: What kind of tank sealer?
Followup-To: rec.aquaria
Organization: BNR
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 20:18:38 GMT

In article <hellmann.727977425@sycamore.cs.scarolina.edu>,
hellmann@cs.scarolina.edu (Doug Hellmann) wrote:
>
> scol@scottsdale.az.stratus.com (Scott Colbath) writes:
>
> >Hi all,
>
> >	I am getting ready to seal the office tank and I was wondering if
> >anyone out there has suggestions on what kind of silicone to use on it. Are
> >there any brands specifically for aquariums?
>
> Scott,
>
> The cheapest way to do it would be to go to the Wal-mart or K-mart and
> pick up a monster tube of GE silicone.  It says that it is safe for
> aquariums, and best of all, the monster tube only costs about $2.50
> compared to a little tube of special aquarium sealant for 4 or 5.  The
> only thing is that you need a caulk gun, but you can probably buy one
> for about $2 if you don't know someone who has one.
>
> -Samantha

That's right Samantha, one word of caution though.  Try to make sure that
it specifically says something about aquarium use. Some sealer is intended
for uses such as bathtup calk and contains fungicides!

dam

==================================================================

Dana Merrill                                Bell Northern Research
DMerrill@BNR.CA                         Research Triangle Park, NC
==================================================================

If you can't find any at department/home supply stores that are
identified as safe for aquariums, most neighborhood fish stores
carry it, albeit it is more expensive.  Not much of a consideration
if you only need a small amount.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: mattk@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (matthew.kaufman)
Subject: Chuck Davis
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 19:27:45 GMT
Followup-To: poster
Keywords: If you know him, please help.


I have posted this to *.aquaria at the request of Steve Szabo,
73067.452@CompuServe.COM. Steve, in turn, posted to the killie net,
at the request of Ginny Eckstein. I know Chuck Davis for a few years from
the North Jersey Aquarium Society, and have enjoyed his talks and the
few personal interactions we've had. Many of us read his column published
monthly in Aquarium Fish Magazine.

Matt
Forwarded Message:
I don't know how many of you may know Chuck Davis.  I do know that some of
you do.  You may know, even, of the recent legal problems that have ensnared
him.  Anyhow, Chuck has recently been convicted on several counts in federal
court.  The following was posted on CIS in the FISHNET forum by Ginny
Eckstein, one of Chuck's many friends.  An ensuing phone call to me from
Ginny also added some information, which I have tacked into Ginny's original
msg.  Chuck does need the support of the friends he has made in this hobby
right now.  If you can honor the follow request, please do so.  If you can
pass this along other routes (including the aquaria groups on INTERNET)
please help us get the word out.

I'm writing the following with a heavy heart--Chuck needs our help...If you
would be willing to write a character letter for him it would be greatly
appreciated.  In the letter please cover the following in your own words: How
long you know Chuck?  HOW do you know him--personal friend (fish), business,
community and/or charity activities, other, all or any of the above, family.
What kind of person is Chuck?  Any other remarks you may wish to convey to the
court.  YOU MUST STATE THAT YOU KNOW CHUCK HAS BEEN CONVICTED OF CRIMES UNDER
FEDERAL LAW.
 
Address the letter to:
               The Honorable Judge H. Lee Sarokin
               United States District Court
               U.S. Post Office & Federal Building
               Newark, New Jersey 07102
 
Important! Please also send a copy to:
               Attn:  William Brennan
               Callan, Regenstreich, Koster & Brady
               179 Avenue of the Commons
               Shrewsbury, New Jersey 07701
 
On behalf of Chuck and his family, I thank you.
 
Sincerely,
Ginny Eckstein
-- 
"I am the chosen one."  | Copyright 1993 mattk@usl.com. Permission for
                        | reproduction in printed media or by pay-for-read
"And I Choose to be     | services explicitly disallowed. Permission granted to
shopping!"              | USENET and like free facilities.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: rardin@binah.cc.brandeis.edu (R. Lynn Rardin)
Subject: [F] flying fox vs. pl*co
Reply-To: rardin@binah.cc.brandeis.edu
Organization: Brandeis University
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 18:00:25 GMT

I want to purchase either a pl*co or a flying fox to take care of algae in my 
15 gal. (high) freshwater tank.  Currently I have 4 leopard danios and 4 serpae 
tetras in the tank.  Are there big advantages to one versus the other?

-Lynn  (rardin@auriga.rose.brandeis.edu)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: kagar@dtc.kodak.com (Keith Agar)
Subject: [F] Cloudy water problem
Originator: kagar@kagar
Organization: Digital Technology Center
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 93 18:23:17 GMT

  I have a problem with cloudy water in my 29 gal. freshwater tank.
  This tank was started when I upgraded from my 10 gal. (which had been
  running fine for 1 year) 6 weeks ago.  I transferred all the gravel 
  from the 10g to the 29g.  Moved the Aquaclear Mini filter over as well.
  The 29g had a new Aquaclear200 filter and an UG with a Hagen301 powerhead.
  I left the Mini filter running with these new ones for 2 weeks to
  allow them time to get established.
  
  I added about 20lbs of new gravel to the tank as well, and I think my
  problem may be due to poor washing of this gravel.  After 2 weeks of
  running the 29g, the water was still cloudy.  Only after using 2
  doses of Brite N'Clear solution, and 1 dose of Crystal Clear did the
  water clear up.  The Aquaclear200 sponge had to be rinsed thoroughly
  between doses to clean out the whitish gunk that got trapped.
  
  Well, I did my first water change two days ago and the problem is back.
  When siphoning the gravel, tremendous amounts of whitish silt was suctioned
  out of the gravel.  A lot got kicked up into water as well, and there
  it remains.  The water clearing solutions don't seem to be doing the
  trick this time, and I am nervous about its affect on the fish.
  
  Should I:
  
  1)  Move the current fish to a temporary holding bucket and siphon all the
      remaining tank water out (cleaning gravel as I do it) and repeat until
      the gravel is clean?
  
  2)  Move the fish to a temporary holding bucket, throw out the gravel and
      replace with new, thoroughly washed gravel?  Oh yeah, the new gravel
      I added to the 29g is much finer than the 10g gravel I started with,
      the grains are ~1/16" (the 10g stuff more like 1/8" to 1/4").
  
  3)  None of the above because the gravel isn't my problem.
  
  Current tank residents:
  
  (1) Betta
  (2) Black tetras (1")
  (5) Serpae tetras (1/2")
  (5) Bleeding hearts (1")
  (2) Male dwarf gouramis (2")
  (1) Angelfish (1.5")
  (1) Clown Pl*co (1.5")
  (1) Chinese algae (2")
  (1) Male swordtail (2")
  (1) Cardinal tetra
  
  pH = 7.0-7.2
  Ammonia = 0
  Unknown nitrate/nitrite (pet store test says okay)
  
  The day after the water change my first angelfish (1") died.  I only had
  it a few days so my pet store replaced it last night after testing my
  water.
  
  Thanks for any help!
  
  kagar@dtc.kodak.com
From: barrett@rock.csh.rit.edu  (Barrett Faneuf)
Subject: Plea for advice on Oscars
Originator: barrett@ROCK
Organization: Computer Science House, RIT
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 23:23:08 GMT


  Hello, Netters;

 I have (among others) a 20g FW tank, established for about 4 months. I 
recently - about 2 1/2 weeks ago - bought two small (approx. 1.5 inches)
Red Tiger Oscars. I would like to know whether anyone out there has some
advice about these fish. I know that they grow very quickly - nearly an 
inch already!, will fight/compete when older if they are not a compatible
(same strength) male and female, and will pick on/eat anything smaller or
less aggressive than they. I plan on getting at least one more tank when 
they mature. A friend of mine has his Oscar, at about 7-8 inches, living
quite happily in his 20g. I plan to give them at least that much if they're
incompatible (I've already got a couple of 20g's), and hopefully a nice
big tank if they turn out to be a pair.
   What is your opinion? Right now they're really happy in their tank, with
UGF + powerhead, Whisper box filter, Ph 7.0, ammonia = 0, and blue
gouramis to chase. They're devouring brine shrimp, flake, and bloodworms.
What's a good setup for the older fish?

Many thenks,
Barrett Faneuf

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier)
Subject: Re: Help finding Lamprichthys Tanganicanus
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 93 22:30:54 GMT

c059rbm@utarlg.uta.edu wrote:
:       any luck. If anyone in netland could help I would be 
:       very gratefull. 

Two members of the S. CA Killi Assoc. are currently attempting to
breed them.  Three, actually - Ron Harlan, Russ Feltzer and Kit
Stowell (I believe Kit is succeeding, since Ron and Russ both got
theirs from him, but I do not know to what degree).  All three have,
on occasion, advertised fish in the AKA Buisness newsletter (I think
Kit has), so you may see it there if one of them succeeds big.  If/when
I see one of them, I'll mention that "people" are interested in
getting some tangynikus (whose spelling is closer to correct?:-) and
see what they say.  Don't bank on this.

--
"They thought to use and shame me but I win out by nature, because a true
freak cannot be made.  A true freak must be born." - K. Dunn, _Geek Love_

Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: lee@ace.npac.syr.edu (Lee C. Brink)
Subject: Re: cichlids
In-reply-to: tes0@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu's message of 20 Jan 93 20:16:08 GMT
Organization: Northeast Parallel Architectures Center - Syracuse, NY
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 93 07:58:27 EST

>>>>> On 20 Jan 93 20:16:08 GMT, tes0@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (THOMAS EDWIN SCHMIDLIN) said:



Tom> As a rule, most SA Cichlids are vicious.  


I disagree (Here in Syracuse, it's either African or S.A. cichlids for
our water.  I chose S.A.).  Most SA cichlids need SPACE.  Lots of it.
If they have the space, they are fairly peaceful.  I find that african
rift lake cichlids far more mean & nasty than nearly all SA cichlids.
(To quote a fellow netter: "African cichlids come across as Atilla the
Hun on speed.")


>a cichlid- only tank if the fish are really worth it, but I tend to get
>bored with just one type of fish in the tank. Are cichlids really as
>wonderful as I keep reading about? Also, what about salt necessary
>for changing the water chemistry. The guy at the store told me I should
>buy a special salt which runs $20.00 for a small container.
>Is this really necessary and is there a cheaper way to go?


Tom> If you decide to get South American Cichlids, regular aquarium salt works
Tom> fine.


If you want to go cheap, buy uniodized salt.  Two canisters for $.69
is a lot cheaper than what you will pay for aquarium salts.


Tom> For African Cichlids, you should use the more expensive salts designed
Tom> specifically for them.  


???  All the Rift Lake fish keepers here don't use any salt; just
dolomite or crushed coral to keep the pH at 8+.  Since I am not an
African fish keeper, what salt would this be (For my curiosity).


Tom> Depending on how much money you have to spend, I would suggest 
Tom> African Cichlids.  They are more expensive, but they are very 
Tom> colorful fish and come in many varieties.


Be careful on what you mix though.  Some species react viciously to
particular kinds of Africans, and not others.  AFM had an article
about a year a go talking about which africans could be mixed
together.


     Lee


--
+---------------------------+----------------------------------------------+
| Lee C Brink	             Office Support Co-ordinator at NPAC	   |
| lee@nova.npac.syr.edu      Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY 13244-4100  |
|			     315-443-1722				   |
| "Stimpy, move your butt.  It's a higher mammal" - The Ren & Stimpy show  |
+---------------------------+----------------------------------------------+
From: igorl@uiuc.edu (Igor Livshits)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: (M) How often to change water?
Date: 27 Jan 93 21:16:27 GMT
Organization: NCSA
X-Xxdate: Wed, 27 Jan 93 21:11:19 GMT
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d17
X-Xxmessage-Id: <A78C5697130314C6@spiff.ncsa.uiuc.edu>

In article <1k6aejINNks@tamsun.tamu.edu> Bryan Milligan,
bryan@kolsky.tamu.edu writes:
> I have three salt water tanks:
> 		58g reef
> 		90g predator w/ some live rock
> 		20g misc w/ a little live rock
> It has been about six months since I changed the water in any of
> them.  Everything is doing fine.  I haven't added anything other
> than RO water to the reef tank in several months as well.

I assume you are adding minerals and trace elements to your tanks?  I,
too, went for 7 or 8 month without changing water (aside from what my
protein skimmer pulled out, and evaporation replacement).  Everything
looked great, NOx, NH4, PO4, were all extremely low or zero.  Yet, BAM! 
my creatures (especially the crustaceans) began to die.  Apparently, they
used up all the trace elements and were mineral starving.

I do a daily water change now (one gallon per day; 58g setup).  Not as
much to control the pollution, but to replenish minerals and such that
are in the salt mix.  The entire process takes me 5-7 minuites a day. 
Not too much bother...I spent a hundred-fold longer just staring at the
tank ;-)

_____
NCSA-UIUC,  e:igorl@uiuc.edu,  p:(217) 244-5606
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: c059rbm@utarlg.uta.edu 
Subject: Help finding Lamprichthys Tanganicanus
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: The University of Texas at Arlington
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 21:16:00 GMT

      any luck. If anyone in netland could help I would be 
      very gratefull. 

				Thank You in advance
				Robert Montgomery

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: fred@mks.com (Fred Kratky)
Subject: Re: [F] flying fox vs. pl*co
Organization: Mortice Kern Systems Inc., Waterloo, Ontario, CANADA
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 19:56:41 GMT

In article <1993Jan21.224434.13939@bsu-ucs> 01mbmccabe@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu writes:
>> I want to purchase either a pl*co or a flying fox to take care of algae in my 
>> 15 gal. (high) freshwater tank.  Currently I have 4 leopard danios and 4 serpae 
>> tetras in the tank.  Are there big advantages to one versus the other?
>
>I may be wrong, but I bet you're talking about a Chinese Algae-eater, rather
>that a Flying Fox -- they do look similar, but I don't think 'Fox's graze
>algae.  Anywho, if this happens to be the case, I'd say a Chinese Algae-eater
>would be the best choice.  Pleco's eventually get _really_ big (a foot or more)
			    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Nope.  Bristle nose plecos reach 5 to 6 inches (from what I have seen)
and members of the Pekoltia family ramge from 3 to 6 inches.  Both are
good algae eaters.  I never tried the chinese algae eaters.

-- 
     ||  // // ,'/~~\'   Fred Kratky		fred@mks.com 
    /||/// //|' `\\\     Mortice Kern Systems Inc.     (519) 884-2251
   / | //_// ||\___/     35 King St. N., Waterloo, Ont., Can. N2J 2W9
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: thompssp@expert.cc.purdue.edu (Steven P. Thompson)
Subject: Re: [F] Aqua-scaping - any Ideas?
Organization: Purdue University Computing Center
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 02:04:53 GMT

In article <1993Jan21.155545.24669@mprgate.mpr.ca> csmith@mpr.ca (Cameron Smith) writes:
>
>I am attempting to aqua-scape my recently established aquarium.  I have a
>10 gallon (20" X 10") tank, UGF.  It is currently populated with 2 Bettas
>(male and female), 1 dwarf butterfly cichlid, and a pleco, and am planning
>to add some tetras (neon or cardinal, blue (blueberry?) or more SA dwarf
>cichlids, or maybe a blue gourami!  As far as plants go I have a Cabomba 
>carolineaus (sp?) in the front left corner, and a water fern (Ceratopterious 
>thalitrodies (sp?)) in the back right corner.  I thought that I would like 
>to place more plants along the left side and across the back.
>
>I thought an Amazon sword might look good in the back center, but don't
>really know what else to plant!  Any suggestions?
>
     Is it just me, or does this sound like A LOT of stuff for a 10 gallon
tank???

>Also, I would like to know of any short (say, less than 10 cm [4"] in
>height) that I could plant (sparsly) in the center to front.
>
>Thanks in advance!
>Cameron

                                                  ~Steve

Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:10408 alt.aquaria:6777 sci.aquaria:1922
From: S_EBACH@rzmain.rz.uni-ulm.de (Ebach Bernd)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria,sci.aquaria
Subject: Electronic pH-detector
Date: 26 Jan 93 14:57:58 GMT
Organization: University of Ulm, Germany
X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.25beta

I recently saw a posting about building a do-it-yourself-pH-detector.
Unfortunately this posting has been expired at our site.

Could someone (preferably the original poster) mail me (or post) the
instruction plan of that thing?

(eMail: s_ebach@main01.rz.uni-ulm.de OR s_wetterman@main02.rz.uni-ulm.de)

TschauTschau
		Bernd and Pierre
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria