HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: smpod@ariel.lerc.nasa.gov (Stefan)
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: Re: DCM Garand
Date: 12 Aug 92 13:32:13 GMT
Organization: who knows

smpod@ariel.lerc.nasa.gov (Stefan) writes...
#wwarf@copper.ucs.indiana.edu (Wayne J. Warf) writes...
# 
#All the blue is there
##except for shop wear on the high spots. The stock looks brand new
##except for a few small storage dings. The rifle is a WW2 vintage Springfield
##dated 3-45 on the barrel. 
# 
#Except for the stock, you may have a collector's item. Get a booklet that gives
#a fairly detailed description of various mods. of the Garand and Garand parts. 
#I do not have the title, maybe someone on the net does. A fellow shooter who was
#initially disappointed in that there were some corrosion on his 1943 barrel,
#later learned that his DCM rifle is worth $700. 

PS  I also learned that the follower in my DCM Garand was worth around $100!
From: edward@locutus.dell.com (Edward Godwin)
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: Re: Browning A-bolt
Date: 19 Aug 92 00:32:55 GMT
Organization: Dell Computer Corporation

In article <9208172324.AA14984@dvorak.amd.com>, mbehrens@aunext3.amd.com (mikael behrens x54752) writes:
|> I'm going to be buying a hunting rifle in the near future and after doing some  
|> preliminary research, I like the stainless steel Browning A-bolt alot.  The  
|> reduced bolt rotation, glass-bedded free-floating barrel, and detatchable mag  
|> are some of the features that attract me to it.  As far as calibre, I'm trying  
|> to decide between .308, 30'06, and .270.

Do not hold your breath for the .308.  Browning only makes the Stainless A-Bolt
in a long action.  That action is not used for their .308 chambering.  The list of
calibers chambered in this model is :  (in order listed, no preference implied :)

		.270
		7mm Rem Mag
		.30-06
		.25-06
		.280 Rem
		.375 H&H
		.300 Mag 
		.338 Mag 

Even though other models of the A-bolt can be had in .308, it seems to not be the
case for the Stainless Stalker.
  
|> 
|> I'd appreciate any general information and opinions of this gun.  How's the  
|> accuracy?  Does the A-bolt have any horrible flaws that aren't immediately  
|> obvious (BESIDES being made in Japan)?
|> 
|> Mikael
|> 

Just FYI,  I do not think that the bbl is glass-bedded.  Mine is free-floating.
By the definition that I have for the two terms, they are contradictory.

Browing uses a Bell&Carlson stock for this rifle.  The fit and finish is excellent.

Some of the later posts reference a "lawyer trigger".  Mine has an excellent,
medium weight trigger.  Just right for hunting, a little heavy for target shooting.
I do not know how much pull it takes, but it is very smooth, has no creep, and
no overtravel.  If Browning has changed the way that they do triggers, it has been
very recently.

I like mine very much.  As a matter of fact, I might be persuaded to give up my
Liberty Ruger #1 in .300 Win Mag for a similarly chambered Stainless Stalker!

Hope this helps.  Good luck.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"A little revolution, now and then, is a healthy thing.  Don't you think?"
                                                    - Capt. Marco Ramius
                                                    "The Hunt for Red October"
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
edward@locutus.dell.com **NRA**ILA**TSRA-Life**ARC**
_______________________________________________________________________________
Disclaimer:  My opinions are not presented as remotely related, or similar to,
the opinions of my employer.  They can make up their own minds.......       
_______________________________________________________________________________
From: spf@hoqaa.att.com (Steven P Frysinger)
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: Re: cannon balls
Date: 20 Aug 92 21:40:58 GMT
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories

#From article <1992Aug18.220604.1478@news.eng.convex.com>, by cash@convex.com (Peter Cash):
# In article <1992Aug18.140803.17224@CERIS.Purdue.EDU> jheath@fieldofdreams.npirs.purdue.edu (Jim Heath) writes:
# #
# #BTW, does anyone know how explosive cannon balls (or modern
# #cannon shells for that matter) worked?  It doesn't seem like they
# #could have run the fuse throught the touch hole and achieved any
# #speed.  Did they load the fuse against the powder charge and hope
# #for the best? 
# 
# Originally, yes. Then it was discovered that it didn't matter if the fuse
# was against the powder or not. The hot gases go around the ball as soon as
# it leaves the muzzle, thus igniting the fuse even if it is in front.  

Okay, I talked to my corporal (who's been researching and practicing
muzzleloading artillery for about 30 years, and an active member of the
Company of Military Historians - all of which is to say that he knows a
hell of a lot more about this than I do), and he cleared up a couple of
points, some of which were not quite correct in my first response:

1. They did NOT load the fuse against the powder.
   But the reason was not (as I suggested) because of blockage by the
   powder bag.  It was because the fuse would be driven into the shell,
   causing the shell to explode in the gun (a Bad Thing).

2. They DID load the fuse to point toward the muzzle.
   It was ignited by hot gases moving around the ball (he said only about
   half went off at all).  They couldn't load to the side because the fuse
   (that wooden peg I described) stuck out somewhat.

Steve Frysinger
From: X005CB@tamvm1.tamu.edu (Chris Barnes)
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: Need help restoring a family relic
Date: 18 Aug 92 21:37:34 GMT
Organization: Texas A&M University


 
My parents have recently passed down a family relic to me, a pre-civil
war, double barrel shotgun (looks like 12 ga.).  Unfortanetly, my
parents stored it in the attic - loose.  It's rusted, the stock is
broken, and one of the hammers is missing.
 
Does anybody have any suggestions on where I should start in my
attempt to rebuild/refinish this thing?  How much should I expect
to spend on it (my wife will probably kill me if I spend more than
$100 on it.....)?
 
I should also mention, I know next to nothing about old models of
guns.  I couldn't tell you the difference between a flintlock and
a muzzelloader (are they different?) .
 
      ----------------------------------------------
Chris Barnes            |
x005cb@tamvm1.tamu.edu  |  Only 14 more days until the start of
(409) 846-3273 (home)   |           hunting season (in Texas)
(409) 845-8454 (work)   |
From: C96@VM.URZ.UNI-HEIDELBERG.DE (Alexander Eichener)
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: WW II German arms identification (was: P.38)
Date: 19 Aug 92 12:39:29 GMT

Risto Alanko already posted an excellent answer to Jim's question and there
is almost nothing to add; he couldn't identify the holster manufacturer, I
think.
   Concerning the question and answering it more generally, the answers
are now available in printed form. The secret code list of the Supreme
Command of the Army has been reprinted in 1977. I am giving exact title,
ordering number, publisher, price and a translation of the blurb:

(Short title: Das grosse Code-Buch)
Ed.:  Oberkommando des Heeres (Chef der Heeresruestung und Befehlshaber des
      Ersatzheeres), Heereswaffenamt Wa Z 2
Tit.: Liste der Fertigungskennzeichen fuer Waffen, Munition und Geraet
      (Nach Buchstabengruppen geordnet). Geheim!
Original: 1944, Berlin: Gedruckt im Oberkommando des Heeres
Reprint:  1977, Schwaebisch Hall: Journal Verlag

Ordering Number: 1121 (Attention: this work is not included in our German
Books in Print list, called "VLB". It is available nevertheless)

Price: 49.80 Deutsche Mark. About 800 pages, size 14.8 x 21 cm.

Publisher's address: Journal-Verlag
                     Postfach 10 03 40
                     D-W- 7170 Schwaebisch Hall

Translated blurb:
As is known, all ordnance items of the Wehrmacht have been assigned encoded
production signs during World War II for reasons of secrecy. These include
weapons, ammunition, vehicles, communication material, optics, leatherware,
ammo containers, storage vessels, magazines, aircraft parts, in short: every
kind of material used with the German Army, Navy and Airforce. In this
interesting reference work, you'll find on appr. 800 pages the exact addresses
for 8887 secret code signs, beginning the the one-digit "a to z", over the
two-digit "aa to zz" to the three-digit "aaa to ozz <!>", which have been
attributed from 1940 to 1945.

Wish you some fun identifying your old war horse...
Alexander Eichener <c96@vm.urz.uni-heidelberg.de>
From: hmueller@orca.tamu.edu (Hal Mueller)
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: deceased FFL holder--what to do?
Date: 12 Aug 92 13:34:30 GMT
Organization: Dept. of Wildlife and Fisheries Sciences, Texas A&M University

A friend of a friend recently died; he was a part-time pistol dealer and 
gunsmith.  My friend is executor.

In general terms, what needs to be done to close the FFL records
and keep the BATF happy?  What traps, pitfalls, problems have
others seen when closing an FFL operation?

Replies by email, and I'll summarize.

-- 
Hal Mueller		  hmueller@orca.tamu.edu    
  "A well educated Electorate, being necessary to the security of a free State,
   the right of the People to keep and read Books, shall not be infringed."
   [Obviously, the above statement only supports state-run law libraries.]
From: mbh@sdphu3.ucsd.edu (Matt Harrington)
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: Recommendation wanted for handgun in .22 LR (including Berettas)
Date: 18 Aug 92 21:37:37 GMT
Organization: Physics Department, UCSD

I've decided to go with a .22 for my first handgun because of the
inexpensive ammo.  I want to spend under $400 (more like under $300),
and I prefer semi-autos.  I've looked into the Browning Buck Marks, the
Ruger Mark II, and I know of the S&W low-end target pistol.  I also like
the Beretta 21 and the other miniature Beretta in .22 Short.

I am interested in hearing some recommendations for handguns in this
caliber.  I'm leaning towards the Beretta 21 because of its size.  The
similar sized Walther is a bit too pricey.  Thanks in advance!

					Regards,

					Matt Harrington
From: larrigan@eeserv.ee.umanitoba.ca (John Larrigan)
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: Re: AR-15 in 7.62X39
Date: 19 Aug 92 23:43:42 GMT
Organization: University of Manitoba, Winnipeg, Canada

hollombe@polymath.tti.com (The Polymath) writes:

#They want $1600 for it -- a bit over my toy budget at the moment.  I
#couldn't find out much more about it, other than it prefers Winchester
#ammunition (something about their shells being crimped tighter than most).

#Of course, the first judge that sees one is going to declare them banned.
#Oh well.

Thats the way it went in Canada.  These shotguns and a couple of others 
made it to the "Banned without grandfather clause" list.  Owners have untill
October 1 to have them deactivated or to turn them in to be melted down into
fishing weights.

John L.
From: barry@godzilla.quotron.com (Barry Geipel)
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: Re: Surplus rifle advice
Date: 12 Aug 92 23:33:40 GMT
Organization: Quotron Systems, Inc.

## Purpose:  Target shooting, learning more about reloading rifle cartridges.
## Cost:     Under $250.
#

I have a Swedish Mauser (6.5x55). All the reloading stuff is available from
RCBS etc.... Brass is pretty common here in So. California. There is a
store in Orange that sells once fired brass for a pretty good price..

Barry (barry@quotron.com)

-- 
==========================================================
Barry L. Geipel            || 
INTERNET:barry@quotron.com || Lacking a muse, my mauser
COMPUSERVE:710055,3726     ||  must be my  thunderbolt
From: nsc!jrr@decwrl.dec.com (Jerry Roe)
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: Re: Occasional Dud in Glock 20
Date: 12 Aug 92 13:30:54 GMT
Organization: National Semiconductor, Santa Clara

In article <1992Aug6.220432.3218@CERIS.Purdue.EDU> jheath@fieldofdreams.npirs.purdue.edu (Jim Heath) writes:
##From article <199208051632.AA52995@ns1.CC.Lehigh.EDU>, by ka02@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (Kent P. Aitchison):
## In article <vvtm20b.damiel@netcom.com>, damiel@netcom.com (Paul Theodoropoulos)
## writes:
## #
## ## An aside, until you achieve 100% continued reliability with your reloads you
## ##should use factory ammo for carry.
## #
## #whether you achieve 100% reliability or not, you should never use reloads/
## #handloads for carry/defense. If you do, and you have to defend yourself
## #in court after a defense shooting, they'll tear you a new you-know-what
## #in court.
## #
## #the image they'll paint is of you, unshaven, beer stained t-shirt,
## #glazed look in your eyes, creating new "extra lethal" rounds in your
## #basement all night long, waiting....waiting...until you can get a chance
## #to KILL somebody.

Just wondering:  let's suppose for a moment you did happen to be using
reloads, ones that you put together yourself.  Let's say you used major-
brand brass (Winchester, Remington etc.), tumble-polished it, used the
same primers the factory did, same powder, same bullets, sized the
brass to factory specs...how would anybody KNOW you were using handloads?


Jerry Roe
jrr@nsc.nsc.com		...!{sun,pyramid,decwrl)!nsc!jrr
From: erudnick@pica.army.mil (FSAC-SID)
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: Re: Top Man Stoppers???
Date: 13 Aug 92 15:24:02 GMT


The Rifleman writes:
##Wasn't the 9mm magnum balistically pretty close to the .357.
#
#9mm magnum?  (Confused look.)  Do you mean the Corbon +P 115-gr JHP
#in 9mm Luger?


The 9mm Winchester Magnum, at 550 ft-lbs, is definitely in .357
territory. As far as I can determine the only firearms chambering
it are the Auto-Mag III and possibly the Wildey. Winchester still
sells brass, which is eminently useful for making reloadable cases
for 9mm Largo/Bergmann-Bayard.

Petersen's Handguns had an article some months ago on the Auto-Mag III
in 9mm Magnum (it's also available in .30 Carbine) and the AM IV in
10mm Magnum (also in .45 Win Mag). Someone on the net has the latter
in 10mm Mag.

The 9mm Mauser Export, an alternate chambering for the "Broomhandle"
and also used in a Hungarian SMG before WW2, had a muzzle energy of
about 530 ft-lb, but in a shorter case than the 9mm Magnum.



Ed Rudnicki     erudnick@pica.army.mil     All disclaimers apply
Protect the Second Amendment - boycott Ruger products
"That's not true," Bill hissed to his lawyer. "The facts are-"
"Don't worry about facts, Bill, no one else here does. Facts can't
alter this case."       -"Bill the Galactic Hero" Harry Harrison
From: cower@csli.stanford.edu (Richard Cower)
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: high capacity magazines for Colt 7.62x39
Date: 17 Aug 92 17:53:25 GMT
Organization: CSLI, Stanford University


If anyone sees any high capacity magazines for that Colt  rifle in
7.62X39, please let us know. Maybe the demand for the gun is so low
that none of the after market magazine manufactuers want to make
them??

thanks...rich cower
From: burge@qdeck.com (Bill Burge)
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: Re: Occasional Dud in Glock 20
Date: 13 Aug 92 23:50:48 GMT
Organization: Quarterdeck Office Systems, Santa Monica CA

In article <1992Aug11.235939.14512@nsc.nsc.com> nsc!jrr@decwrl.dec.com (Jerry Roe) writes:
#Just wondering:  let's suppose for a moment you did happen to be using
#reloads, ones that you put together yourself.  Let's say you used major-
#brand brass (Winchester, Remington etc.), tumble-polished it, used the
#same primers the factory did, same powder, same bullets, sized the
#brass to factory specs...how would anybody KNOW you were using handloads?
#
#

Factories rarly give out their recipes and will sometimes use a powder that
is unavailable to you and me.  Some of the better bullets are also not
available to the reloader.  This allows them to sell ammo instead of bullets.
Some loads also have a discripter added to the powder to allow detection
of the load used.  THis is usually for law enforcement agencies.

Bill	burge@qdeck.com
From: crmeyer@voodoo.physics.ucsb.edu (Charles Meyer)
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: Progressive reloader wanted
Date: 23 Aug 92 03:09:24 GMT

Unfortunatly, Dillon discontinued their 450 Jr before I could buy one. I
am therefore looking for a used progressive reloader for pistol calibers.
One configured for 9mm or .38 special/.357 would be prefered but I can 
always change dies. If you have an old progressive reloader in good 
working condition that you wish to part with (does not have to be Dillon)
please E-mail me.

							Thanks

                      +-----------------------------------+
                      |         Charles R. Meyer          |
                      |                                   |
                      | Internet: crmeyer@voodoo.ucsb.edu |
                      | Bitnet:   crmeyer@voodoo          |
                      | HEPnet:   voodoo::crmeyer         |
                      +-----------------------------------+
From: dpike@OAVAX.CSUCHICO.EDU (DAN PIKE)
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: Re: Should my first handgun be a .22? (Too wimpy for defense?)
Date: 20 Aug 92 01:02:44 GMT
Organization: California State University, Chico

In my opinion you should practice with the handgun that you are going to rely
on the most.  If you are going to carry a handgun for self defense you want to
be as familiar with the weapon as you possibly can.  

Differant weapons have differant recoils and "feel" to them.  The sights on
your practice pistol could also be set 10' lower that the sights on the gun you
carry. That could be the differance betweeen hitting your target and not
hitting your target.  

As for hunting bear with a handgun.  I have friends who hunt with handguns.
They use 44 Magnums with special loads. They always take someone along with a
good high powered rifle though, just in case they unload in a bear and it keeps
coming.


In article <9208170747.AA09832@network.ucsd.edu>, mbh@sdphu1.ucsd.edu
(Matt
Harrington) writes:
#I need the advice of rec.guns readers about purchasing my first handgun.
#What I'm looking for is:
#
#	- A gun to learn shooting with and to improve marksmanship
#	- A gun to use for personal defense in the city
#	- A gun to bring backpacking for protection against bears and 
#	  general personal defense in the backcountry
#
#A good suggestion made to me by another rec.guns reader was to pick up a
#.22 for learning to shoot.  This is because the ammunition is so
#inexpensive, and the guns are easy to handle.  I like the feel and price
#of the Browning Micro Buck Mark.  The gun shop that I visited also has
#several Rugers in .22 caliber.
#
#The two problems that I see with a .22 is that it doesn't seem powerful
#enough for personal defense against humans, let alone bears.  The
#Browning also seemed a little large to carry around easily.  Maybe I
#need two guns: one for practicing (a .22) and one for defense.  As I'm
#still in the brainstorming phase, price isn't that important.  Any
#suggestions would be greatly appreciated -- thanks in advance.
#
#					Regards,
#
#					Matt Harrington
**********************************************************
DAN PIKE, CALIFORNIA STATE UNIVERSITY, CHICO
DPIKE@OAVAX.CSUCHICO.EDU
From: jartsu@vipunen.hut.fi (Jartsu)
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: Choosing a handgun...
Date: 12 Aug 92 13:31:16 GMT
Organization: Helsinki University of Technology, Finland


I am about to buy myself a semi-auto .22LR pistol and it seems that
the Ruger MK10/KMK10 is the best one for my purposes.
I am rather unfamiliar with this particular type, haven't ever seen
one "live". What can you tell me about it and what are the main
advantages and disadvantages between these two (MK and KMK), the other
is stainless steel, and the other is normal blued steel.

Thanks for your help.

--
* Jari Lehto     * Voice 90-387939    *   Email Jari.Lehto@hut.fi   *
* Tenavatie 19 A * Fax +358 0 8735916 * fwd -> s37837k@saha.hut.fi  *
* 00760 HELSINKI * "There is always room for music (Gospel & synth) *
* Finland	 * and for love & friendship. And of course Atari." *
From: burge@qdeck.com (Bill Burge)
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: Re: reloading & lead
Date: 19 Aug 92 12:39:00 GMT
Organization: Quarterdeck Office Systems, Santa Monica CA

In article <1992Aug18.152100.24630@news.yale.edu> swatt@net.yale.edu (Alan Watt) writes:
#
#After spending considerable effort to find a nice clean-burning powder for
#my reloads, someone at the range finally told me all that smoke was
#vaporized lead and bullet lube!  I've been buying boxes marked "hard cast",
#bullets for both .45 and .357, but none of the boxes ever gave percentages
#of lead, tin, and antimony, so I don't really know what I've been shooting.
#
#After one shooting session with 148 gr. double-ended wad-cutters in .357,
#I must have spent 4 or 5 hours cleaning the lead out of the barrel and
#cylinder.  I was always careful to load mild with lead bullets, believing
#that muzzle velocities below 1000 fps were safe from leading.  I kept my
#reloads in the 850-950 fps range.  What I'm now told is the flash of
#the propellant actually vaporizes some of the lead regardless of muzzle
#velocity.  Some of the vapor deposits on the barrel, and some deposits
#on the cylinder, forcing cone, and topstrap.  (and some gets inhaled ...).
#

Another important characteristic is the gas seal of the bullet.  Make 
sure they are the right size AT LEAST .001 larger than bore diameter.
Slugging the barrel is the best way to know what that is.  Jim Boland
of comp gun fame found that this is not even good enough (.001) in a 
lot of cases.  He said that a total gas seal was not attainable with 
larger bullets.  

#The good news is: no leading.  The bad news is: I get little slivers
#of copper spit back at me with enough force to penetrate my skin.  It's
#usually on the left forearm, but I've also caught a couple on the left
#side of my neck (another good reason to wear those shooting glasses).
#
#The gun is a reasonably new Ruger GP-100 which has never been abused.
#I've never had spitting with cast bullets, and I've put at least 100
#rounds of the Federal 125 gr. hot stuff through it with no problems.
#I'm as certain as I can be short of a trip to the gunsmith that this
#gun is properly timed.
#
#

Still sounds like a timing problem.

#  1)	Is there something about the clad-jacket process which makes
#	it unsuitable for magnum revolvers?
#

Not that I know of.

#  2)	If answer to (1) is no, does Carroll do something wrong that
#	other makers avoid?
#
#  3)	Is there a source of reliably "hard cast" bullets that don't
#	produce a lot of lead vapor, or is this problem inherent in
#	any cast bullet.  I've read about gas-checks, but I've never
#	used them.
#

I purchase from Western Nevada Bullets and have no problems with either
their hard cast or the copper-clad.  THey double the jacket of most clads.
They also aren't twice as expensive for clads as for hard cast lead.  I 
also shoot most lead at .002 over bore diameter.

Bill	burge@qdeck.com