HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: bowmanj@csn.org (Jerry Bowman)
Subject: Re: Buick Century now has power!!
Organization: University of Colorado Boulder, OCS
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1992 16:34:24 GMT

In article <C01CuH.FH9.2@cs.cmu.edu> murthy+@EDRC.CMU.EDU (Sesh Murthy) writes:
>I replaced every damn thing I could on this car.  Things
>improved but not much. 
>
>Finally I decided to decarbonize using the water in the
>carburettor method.  I poured in (using an old dishwashing 
>liquid bottle) about 1 quart of water into the carburettor
>in a steady stream keeping engine rpm high enough not to 
>stall.  At the end of this I drove the car about 10 miles 
>to get rid of any water that may have remained.
>
>The car feels GREAT.  I can accelerate really fast, I can spin the 
>wheels and overall the car is really smooth now.  Finally this
>car is drivable.   It seems to have something like its rated 110 HP.
>
>Thanks to all the peole who suggested this.
>
>I think the surging was because the knock sensor was sensing the
>knocking and retarding the spark.  Then it would try again.  Now
>this is gone.  This probably also accounted for the low power
>previously.  (If it had not been for the computer I would have
>heard the knocking and done this earlier.)
>
>So how exactly does this decarbonizing work?  Is it necessary only
>on American cars?  (I took the head off a Honda Civic 1.3 L and it
>had no carbon on it at 100,000 miles.)   Why did my car have all
>this carbon anyway?  (it has 104000 miles.)
     Now that you like the way it runs do yourself a favor. Get yourself a
    Ware Vapor Injection System. They are very inexpensive.  They will keep 
    carbon build up from happening again. They advertise better mileage more
    power and all that too but the only real advantage I can see is keeping
the cobustion chambers clean enough to eat out of.>
>Sesh Murthy
From: jskean@unlinfo.unl.edu (jonathan skean)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Exhaust Moisture
Date: 21 Dec 1992 16:52:07 GMT
Organization: University of Nebraska--Lincoln	
Distribution: all
NNTP-Posting-Host: unlinfo.unl.edu

spatton@lamar.ColoState.EDU (Samuel Patton) writes:

>I have a 78 Trans Am with a pontiac 400 and Borg Warner T-10 four speed
>installed.

>Lately I have noticed that on the drivers side exhaust ( its dual exhaust )
>alot of water vapor comes out of the tailpipe while noe is coming out of
>the exhaust from the other head...

Don't have a '78 Firebird handy, but other rear-drive GM barges had
an exaust heat riser control on the right side manifold which allowed
exaust gas to flow through passages in the intake manifold to help
vaporize the fuel.  After the riser heats up, the exaust is diverted
to the exaust pipe.  (By this time the intake manifold should be
warm enough not to need the exaust any more.)  The heat riser valve
has a iron counterweight about 1/3 the size of a pack of cigarettes and
a spiral spring.  It's located between the exaust manifold and the
exaust pipe.  Your auto parts store should have some graphite-bearing
penetrating oil made exactly for this application.  After soaking the
valve in penetrating oil (while cold!) overnight, use a bit of violence
to jar the damn thing loose.  Having once siezed, it will be a pain
again regularly.  Just consider it a normal maintenace item for
an old V8.
--
Jonathan Skean                     usenet: JSKEAN@UNL.EDU
502 Hamilton Hall                  bitnet: JSKEAN%UNL.EDU@UNLVAX1
University of Nebraska              voice: (402)472-2684
Lincoln, NE 68588-0304   USA          fax: (402)472-9402
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: motani@watson.ibm.com
Subject: Ford Probe Headlight Motor
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 20:14:18 GMT
News-Software: IBM OS/2 PM RN (NR/2) v0.16 by O. Vishnepolsky and R. Rogers
Reply-To: motani@vnet.ibm.com
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center

One of the headlights on my '89 Ford Probe GL will not raise up. If I manage to
manually lift it, it will not close properly. I took the car to the dealer and
he claimed that this is draining my batteries. He also said that this is being 
caused by the motor for that headlight seizing up. A new replacement motor will cost
$300! :-( Does anybody know if I can get an equivalent replacement for any cheaper?
Replies by e-mail please.

________________________________________________________________________________
Muiz Motani
IBM Canada Lab                  motani@vnet.ibm.com
Distributed System Products
From: ah335@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Richard Banks)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Sugar in gas?  Test
Date: 3 Jan 1993 03:28:19 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: ah335@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Richard Banks)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc4.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, sherod@newton.Colorado.EDU (Scott Herod) says:

>I was wondering if there is some way to test for sugar/honey in the fuel 
>tank.  It's a long story involving a dog, a stereo, and the phone company
>but I am afraid I may now have some strange substances in the fuel
>tank. Is there a way to test or would you just drain the tank on general
>principles?  Will sugar disolve in the water in the gas or should it all
>be dumped?
>


Do this simple test.  Get a clear glass jar, fill it half way with
gasoline then add
whatever you think got in your tank, and observe.  This is a good
way to see how well those fuel additives you buy mix with your
gasoline.  I've done this before and found most of that stuff
simply sinks to the bottom and sits there.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: Cliff_Lum@mindlink.bc.ca (Cliff Lum)
Subject: Toyota BVSV (Choke Unloader Valve)
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 09:18:04 GMT

The BVSV (Bimetallic Vacuum Switch VAlve) which operates the choke unloader
and AAP seems to be stuck. First thing in the morning while checking the
operation of the choke it would operate which it is not supposed to do. It
would open the choke and the engine would stall in freezing temperatures.
Also hot the AAP would still operate since I would be able to mearsure a
vacuum at the AAP port. Is this a common problem with these switches and is
it fixable. This is the second one I had put in.
The choke unloader is supposed to operate at temps 45 degress C and above.
The AAP is closed above 64 degrees Celcius.
Thanks
cuum
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: welchb@woods.ulowell.edu
Subject: Pleasant experience obtaining technical info
Organization: University of Lowell
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 19:34:07 GMT

I had bought a used Toyota radio, and was having trouble installing it.
I went to a Toyota dealer, intending to go to the parts dept.  Because
it was 1pm on a Saturday, they had the normal door closed, and you 
entered through the service dept.  There was one mechanic, and one person
behind the parts counter.  They were kind enough to let me look through
all the electrical manuals (I did not know which year the radio had come
from).  It was a useful experience, and allowed me to figure out what
connections I needed.
-- 
Brendan Welch, UMass/Lowell, W1LPG,  welchb@woods.ulowell.edu
From: tt300zx@milton.u.washington.edu (twin turbo 300zx)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Slick 50
Date: 30 Dec 1992 10:19:07 GMT
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Distribution: na
NNTP-Posting-Host: milton.u.washington.edu

>OPINION
>
>	 As a former S50 user I wouldn't spend the money.  Instead, just change your
>	 oil at regular intervals and perform regular maintenence.
>
>Steve

	i'm currently using slick50 on my integra and tt300zx -- i think
	it actually decrease the engine noise a great deal. my dad's 85
	buick park avenue also has slick50 in it and the engine noise
	also decrease even more significantly than the integra.
	as for my mom's chevy astro, same improvement was also detected.
	as of now, i don't think there's any significant change on the
	gas mileage, barely, not even noticeable. i like it thou :)

     ZZZZZZZZ ZZZZZZZZ  ZZZZ    ZZZZ   ZZZZZ                
    ZZZZZZZZ ZZZZZZZZ ZZZ ZZ   ZZ ZZ  ZZ  ZZ                
       ZZ       ZZ    ZZ  ZZ  ZZ  ZZ  ZZ ZZ                 
      ZZ       ZZ        ZZ  ZZ   ZZ ZZ  ZZ ZZZZZZ ZZ   ZZ  
      ZZ       ZZ      ZZ   ZZZ  ZZ ZZ   ZZ     ZZ  Z  Z    
     ZZ       ZZ       ZZZ  ZZ   ZZ ZZ  ZZ     ZZ   Z Z     
     ZZ       ZZ        ZZ ZZ   ZZ ZZ   ZZ   ZZ     ZZ      
    ZZ       ZZ         ZZ ZZ   ZZ ZZ  ZZ   ZZ     ZZZ      
    ZZ       ZZ    ZZ  ZZ ZZ   ZZ ZZ   ZZ  ZZ     ZZZZ      
   ZZ       ZZ     ZZ ZZ  ZZ  ZZ  ZZ  ZZ ZZ      ZZ ZZ      
   ZZ       ZZ     ZZZZ   ZZZZZ   ZZZZZ  ZZZZZZ ZZ  ZZ      
   ZZ       ZZ      ZZ     ZZZ     ZZZ   ZZZZZZ ZZ  ZZ      
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kenny@osf.org (Kenneth Crudup)
Subject: Re: Slick 50
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1992 19:46:57 GMT

In article <1hrt2rINNb8s@shelley.u.washington.edu>
tt300zx@milton.u.washington.edu (twin turbo 300zx) writes:

>     ZZZZZZZZ ZZZZZZZZ  ZZZZ    ZZZZ   ZZZZZ                
>    ZZZZZZZZ ZZZZZZZZ ZZZ ZZ   ZZ ZZ  ZZ  ZZ                
>       ZZ       ZZ    ZZ  ZZ  ZZ  ZZ  ZZ ZZ                 
>      ZZ       ZZ        ZZ  ZZ   ZZ ZZ  ZZ ZZZZZZ ZZ   ZZ  
>      ZZ       ZZ      ZZ   ZZZ  ZZ ZZ   ZZ     ZZ  Z  Z    
>     ZZ       ZZ       ZZZ  ZZ   ZZ ZZ  ZZ     ZZ   Z Z     
>     ZZ       ZZ        ZZ ZZ   ZZ ZZ   ZZ   ZZ     ZZ      
>    ZZ       ZZ         ZZ ZZ   ZZ ZZ  ZZ   ZZ     ZZZ      
>    ZZ       ZZ    ZZ  ZZ ZZ   ZZ ZZ   ZZ  ZZ     ZZZZ      
>   ZZ       ZZ     ZZ ZZ  ZZ  ZZ  ZZ  ZZ ZZ      ZZ ZZ      
>   ZZ       ZZ     ZZZZ   ZZZZZ   ZZZZZ  ZZZZZZ ZZ  ZZ      
>   ZZ       ZZ      ZZ     ZZZ     ZZZ   ZZZZZZ ZZ  ZZ      

Please lose the obnoxious signature. We get the point.

	-Kenny
-- 
Kenny Crudup, Contractor, OSF DCE QA
OSF, 11 Cambridge Center, Cambridge, MA 02142	+1 617 621 7306
kenny@osf.osf.org			OSF has nothing to do with this post.
	  Religion: The longest-running gag ever played on Mankind.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bowmanj@csn.org (Jerry Bowman)
Subject: Re: Buick Century now has power!!
Organization: University of Colorado Boulder, OCS
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 15:46:16 GMT

In article <C032Jv.8os.2@cs.cmu.edu> murthy+@EDRC.CMU.EDU (Sesh Murthy) writes:
>
>|> >had no carbon on it at 100,000 miles.)   Why did my car have all
>|> >this carbon anyway?  (it has 104000 miles.)
>|>      Now that you like the way it runs do yourself a favor. Get yourself a
>|>     Ware Vapor Injection System. They are very inexpensive.  They will keep 
>|>     carbon build up from happening again. They advertise better mileage more
>|>     power and all that too but the only real advantage I can see is keeping
>|> the cobustion chambers clean enough to eat out of.>
>So what is this vapor injection system and has anyone tried it.  For all
>I know it might be the equivalent of slick 50.  
>
>I am still curious to know why the carbon builds up in the combustion
>chambers of only some cars.  Is it the design of the car or the drivers
>driving habits.
>
>Thanks
>Sesh Murthy

     Sorry I didn't catch the typo yesterday. It is a water vapor injection
    system not Ware. Basically it is just a canister you mount under your
    hood. You fill it with waterand uattach a small hose to manifold vacuum
    The vacuum causes bubbles in the canister and the vapor from the bubbles
    is sucked out the top of the canister through the hose and into the 
    intake manifold. The vapor enters the combustion chambers with your air
    fuel mixture and creates steam which sort of steam cleans your combustion 
    chamber each time a cylinder fires.It is really simple when you see it 
    working. Very inexpensive. Less than $15.00. J.C.Whitney.
From: james@koko.csustan.edu (Jonas Grumpy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: '80 Turbo TA
Date: 22 Dec 92 02:25:10 GMT
Organization: CSU Stanislaus

In article <1gvic7INNbq0@aludra.usc.edu> amendola@aludra.usc.edu (Dante Alighieri) writes:
>Any advice on squeezing a Chevy 409 into a 1980 Turbo Trans Am, and/or
>tips on getting the best performance out of it?
>
>
>
>-- 
>      Dear Dad:  Hate you, eloping with Mom.  Taking your cigars
>                  and sports car.   -- Love, Sigmund
>Being a completely uncaring bastard means never having to say you're sorry.
>


Crank up the boost on the 301 or whatever it has. This will get you
more horses than a "Formula 409".  With about 15 boost and a intercooler
it should put out around 465 hp. This will save you the weight of the bigger
block as well.
-- 
C MYSIG  ASIG4U 1RADSIG 2BADSIG SIG U 2     U R SIG   1SIGDOG    ADOTSIG
 				The above advice is not to be taken seriously!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ravalent@rodan.acs.syr.edu (Bob Valentine)
Subject: Re: Chrysler tranny slippage
Organization: Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 92 16:11:33 EST

In article <1992Dec19.013655.56338@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu> kjt0@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (KENNETH JAMES TSANG) writes:
>Whenever I make a turn and then apply gas (about halfway thru the turn) the
>transmission slips (into neutral, I presume) and revs high, then the tranny
>pops back into gear.  This also occurs when the engine (and tranny) are
>*really cold* (overnight below 0 deg C) and if you try to accelerate quickly
>in a straight line.  However none of this ever happens when I drive the car on
>a straight line (and it's warmed up) or go around a corner & lightly apply
>the gas or downshift to keep the revs up in the corner.
>Does anybody have any ideas on how bad and how much???

   Sounds just like it is low on fluid.  Mine (GM TH-400) does the
same when cold, but I think that's just due to lots of hard miles,
resulting in a worn fluid pump.  Check the level, change the filter
too.



                      -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                  --> ravalent@mailbox.syr.edu <--  

    

    



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bob1@cos.com (Bob Blackshaw)
Subject: Re: 90 Justy Fuel Filter Replacement Problem
Organization: Corporation for Open Systems
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 21:11:58 GMT

In <3592@voodoo.UUCP> tat@voodoo.boeing.com (Tim Tallar) writes:

>Has anyone had experience in changing the fuel filter in a 1990 Subaru
>Justy, with a carb?  The manual has a diagram showing it by the fuel
>filler,(inside the left rear interior side panel), but in the
>documentation, it says it is in the engine compartment.
>The manual also says that it is under pressure, and should only be changed
>by the dealer.  I have searched all over the engine compartment, and briefly
>behind the interior panel where the fuel filler is located.  Does anyone
>know where the fuel filter is located?  BTW I have a Fram filter, the one that
>was listed in their catalog as the replacement.    

I can't help you find the filter, but when I changed the one in my
'89 Probe all I did was trip the shock switch on the electric fuel
pump with the engine running and waited until the engine stopped.

I imagine most fuel injected engines run about 30-40 lbs pressure
so the same technique should work on your Justy. If your fuel
pump doesn't have the shock trip, look for the fuse and pull it.


>Thanks in advance.

Bob.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Mustang GT EPA legal perfromance maximized
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 24 Dec 92 14:28:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> At the moment GM offers the SPA performance package for Camaros and
-> Firebirds upping the performance by about 50Hp. The modifications are
-> fairly simple -intake side exhaust side type mods.
->
-> How about the Mustang GT? Is the GT transmission limited, that is,
-> can it be stressed over a max. torque of 310ft.lbs ?

 The BW T5 transmission they use is rated at less than 300 ft-lbs.
Except for minor case differences, it's the same as the one used in the
Camaro.  Ford's C4 is slightly less strong than a T350 but much stouter
than the 700R4 or T200.

 Warner has a new second-generation T5 out, but I don't know what cars
it's being used in, if any.

 Screw the 5.0.  Drop in a 460 and tell the Smog Gestapo your hood
release cable is broken.
From: vbreault@rinhp750.gmr.com (Val Breault)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 100 000 miles at redline
Date: 23 Dec 92 14:55:20 GMT
	<1h8kujINNd6c@uniwa.uwa.edu.au>
Organization: General Motors Research Labs
In-reply-to: scott@psy.uwa.oz.au's message of 23 Dec 92 03:03:47 GMT


   >choy@skorpio.usask.ca (I am a terminator.) writes:

   >>A BMW ad claims their car (or was it just the engine?) was driven for
   >>at redline 100 000 miles straight. The engine showed no signs of wear.
   >>How does this compare to other cars? How does this compare to airliners?

Hmmm....  Let's examine this...

If the test was done without a transmission then the only loads upon
the engine would be the pumping losses (very low if a diesel), the 
power needed to operate the pumps and internal friction.  Even at
red line, this is considerably less than the power needed to shove
a car through the air at freeway speeds.  If the test was actually
done without an external load then I'd say it was (1) much more gentle
than 100,000 miles on the highway and (2) totally meaningless.

By the way... what do you suppose "no signs of wear" means?  I doubt that
it means that the parts were indistinguishable from new parts off the 
shelf, but that's the impression that they want to convey.

Anecdote:

A long LONG time ago a friend of mine was about to scrap out his 1959
Plymouth station wagon and thought he's send it off with a real BANG.
He started the engine (V8 318), tossed a cinder block on the accelerator 
pedal and ran like his pants were on fire.  

The engine screamed through its burned out exhaust pipes as if someone
had opened the gates of hell.  We were sure that the tired old beater
would throw at least a couple of rods right through the side of the 
block.  We stood inside the service bay, watching the car through
a barred, reinforced window.

We waited.

And waited.

And... after 15 minutes of patient watching... we took a lunch break.

We washed up... ate... chatted with folks... and finally agreed to 
halt that incredible racket.... 45 minutes after starting it.

The engine was QUITE overheated and siezed.

But the story doesn't end there.

He push started the car a few days later and drove it to the wrecking 
yard where he received $25 for the car ($25 was the going rate for cars 
that could be driven to the yard).

-----------------

Now, I'm a skeptic and a scientist and I wouldn't give that story 
much consideration if I'd heard it from someone else and I don't expect
any of you to do so either.  It certainly has nothing to do with
carefully conducted scientific experiments and almost nothing to
do with the topic of this thread.

But it *IS* a true story... I was there.

-----------------

Merry Christmas, Happy New Year, Happy Hanukkah, Happy Holidays...

See you all in '93
--
-val-

Val Breault - GM Research - vbreault@gmr.com - N8OEF            \      /|
Instrumentation dept., 30500 Mound Rd., Warren, MI 48090-9055    \    / |
The opinions expressed by the author do not necessarily reflect   \  /__|
those of GMR or those of the General Motors Corporation.           \/   |___
From: greg.roberts@dwarp.sccsi.com (Greg Roberts) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Post flood maintenance -
Date: 27 Dec 92 21:43:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Data Warp Premium BBS - Spring/Houston, TX - 713-355-6107
Reply-To: greg.roberts@dwarp.sccsi.com (Greg Roberts) 


GM}During last week's sudden storm in the New York area, we unexpectedly
GM}encountered badly flooded roads and ended up driving for a few minutes
GM}through water that was roughly axle high.

What type of vehicle was it?

GM}Are there any prescribed maintenance procedures to follow after this
GM}wonderful experience?

 If it was a 4wd truck or some such, I doubt you did any harm at all.
 On a conventional (front engine, RWD) you might consider re-packing
 the front wheel bearings.  If you have front wheel drive, check to
 make sure that your CV Boots aren't torn.  If they are, I would
 suggest repacking the CV joints.

GM} A dealer suggested replacing all wheel bearings -
GM}is that reasonable at this point?

Sounds like a scheme to take your money, unless you can hear them
grinding or jack them up and feel a roughness when you turn the wheel
by hand.

In all probability, you did no more damage to your car than you would
driving through a few puddles during a rainstorm.

As for replacing the rear bearings (if you have rear wheel drive), that
was definitely an attempt by the dealer to gouge you, unless you are
pouring differential grease out the wheels....<-;).
---
 . SLMR 2.1a #796 . My keyboard has an F1 key, where's the NASCAR key?
From: tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu (Terry Quinn)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Before Buying Japanese.
Date: 31 Dec 1992 12:49:56 -0600
Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway
Reply-To: tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu



Alan Perry writes . . . 
 
> >
> >Before buying a new Japanese car please read:
> >
> >       JAPANYES, (2nd edition)
> > 
> >monu6.cc.monash.edu.au. The most recent version is in pub/nihongo.
> >
> >       (ftp site)
> 
> And before you buy an American car, watch the movie "Tucker".  Or, look at 
> the Big Three's reaction to the oil embargo in the 70s.
 
Is it possible that anything has changed in the last 20 to 40 
years?

--
                                    Terry Quinn
                                     Germantown Hills, IL
                                      tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu
from Compuserve . . .                  >INTERNET: tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: wilsont@rahul.net (Timothy Wilson)
Subject: 81 fiat spider, i think the FI control box is hosed.
Organization: a2i network
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 1992 17:28:14 GMT

If anyone can help...   

My '81 fiat spider 2000 (fuel injection) had a problem with the fuel pump. 
(then it gets really wierd...)

No power to the fuelpump...so at the advice of a mechanic, i bypassed a
 relay box, and got power to the pump. It hummed, but it didn't pump gas!

ok. so i replace the fuel pump, and still using the bypassed wire, the 
new pump works great.



 So i start my car. Vroom it goes for a while (30secs), so i shut it off so
i can go to work tightening the pump brackets etc...

I lower the car and now it doesn't start!

i'm getting gas at the engine end. (at the fuel regulator)
Now what?!

could my FI control box be screwed?
If it is screwed, how much is a new one( bosch L-jettronic) ?             

Is it just one of  those "its broke so replace it" parts? (an inside
inspection revealed no obvious  problems)                                

  

Thanks for the help!
(any onther ideas, books or people to talk to also helps!)

                             

-- 
Timothy Wilson <wilsont@rahul.net>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Babbitt metal
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 27 Dec 92 01:08:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


 Does anyone know where I can buy bars of Babbitt metal?  I need a
number of light duty bushings and it'd be interesting to cast them
instead of turning them on the lathe.

 Were there any other alloys besides Babbitt in common use, and if so,
how did they compare?

=======================================================================
can you help me...help me get out of this place?...slow sedation...
ain't my style, ain't my pace...giving me a number...NINE, SEVEN, EIGHT
(Nazareth)               XJ900 TURBO at 15psi          DoD# 978  KotFAQ
=======================================================================