HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: pauls@ctron.com (Paul A. Simoneau)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Car Alarm Recommendations needed
Date: 9 Nov 92 17:03:47 GMT
Reply-To: pauls@ctron.com ()
Organization: Cabletron Systems Inc.
Originator: pauls@cardinals

A friend's car recently got broken into, and all of its
contents (head unit, EQ, sub, sub amp) were stolen.  This
made me think of my current (lack of) anti-theft protection.
So, now I'm looking for recommendations for car alarms from
the collective r.a.c. wisdom.

I'm not really looking for something that does *EVERYTHING*
(ie open/close doors/windows/trunk, start car remotely,
and other such silly stuff).  Just the necessities such as
battery back up, "scan" proof, good sensors, possible routes
of expansion, etc.    

So far, I've found the Alpine 8040B to be a pretty good looking
system.  Anyone have any (good/bad) experience with this, or
found any other systems that out perform it?  

Any comments, suggestions, advice will be greatly appreciated.
If I get enough responses, I'll post the results that I get.


Paul Simoneau
pauls@ctron.com
From: jsmith@ug.cs.dal.ca (Jeff N Smith)
Subject: Subwoofer Survey
Organization: Math, Stats & CS, Dalhousie University, Halifax, NS, Canada
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 17:23:32 GMT

Hello
	I thought that the following would be a good idea:
	Everyone has a different idea about subwoofers and enclosures
so I thought that I would like to take a survey to your opinions.
For the survey include:

Manufacturer:	Rockford Fosgate
Size:		10"
Model:		Pro 10	(I can't remeber the acutal number)
Approx Cost per driver:	$175
Type of Enclosure:	Sealed, Vented, Bandpass etc.
Size per driver:	1 cuft
Number of drivers:	2
X-over freq.:		100 Hz and down.
Freq response in enclosure: If you know it (was it measured or calulated?)

	Then a brief summary why you like the sub. system or why not!  Maybe
you heard it in someone elses car and it sucked or it was awesome.  Let me
know!  I will compile the results and post.

PLEASE E-MAIL to jsmith@ug.cs.dal.ca

Thank You to everyone for your help and response.

Jeff Smith		jsmith@ug.cs.dal.ca
Dalhousie University	Halifax, NS
From: laflisc@wkuvx1.bitnet
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Suitable Capacitor?
Date: 12 Nov 92 08:48:55 CST
Organization: Western Kentucky University, Bowling Green, KY

> 
> OH SHUT UP!  I enjoy the public arguments.  Shows who has balls enough to
> make a claim (even if wrong).  Society is filling up with wimps.
> 
> Oh yeah, 8-)
> 
> Kirk out

Thanx,
	Thank you, sir, for your wonderful opinion.  It is nice to
hear that everyone offer one.  If it werent for people jumping on
anyone possible, the world would be a quiet place.  Execpt, of course,
for all our stereos.

						whatever,

						   Scott
From: kmr4@po.CWRU.edu (Keith M Ryan)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Status of FAQ
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 05:23:47 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University
NNTP-Posting-Host: b64746.student.cwru.edu


Thanks to all who have kindly responded, offering help with a FAQ. 
Currently, I am compiling the various posts from the last year or so that I 
have archived. Unfortunatly, it seems that many of the disks have become 
damaged, I believe it is my M&K subwoofer which is responsible. I'm 
reconstructing some, but this takes a while and is a pain. Right now, I'm 
figuring out what I have, and which are salvagable. If any of you happen to 
have saved various posts which you feel are suitable for the FAQ, please e-
mail them to me. I'll be contacting the authors for permission, of course. 
I'm viewing this as a group project, with those interested, to help out in 
the areas which one feels they have a good working knowledge, some insight, 
or some tricks. 

There are several main areas which I feel we should address:

ELECTRICAL:

Power supplies: 

	This will include upgrades and modifications to the car's electrical 
	system, e.g. upgrading the alternator, adding a battery to proper 
	fusing and power lines, etc.

Line noise prevention:

	A fairly complete trouble shooting guide for alternator whine, 
	groud loops, etc.	

Component, electrical installation:

	Describing various methods of connecting head units to equalizers, 
	amps, etc. How to add a CD to a factory radio, etc.

Crossovers:

	Both passive and active, pro's and con's to each, and how one builds 
	passive crossovers.

Center Channel and DSP:

	Discussing the various methods of creating a center channel, 
	discussions of the various ready made components, etc.



PHYSICAL INSTALLATION:

Headunits\amps etc:

	How to install most types of head units in most cars. Where to place 
	amplifiers, etc.

Speakers:

	From placement to stock drops, from cutting metal, to fiberglass 
	panels. 

Specific cars:

	Ideally, we should compile a list of ideas for major cars, which 
	speakers can fit where, etc.

Enclosures:
	
	From pro's and con's of each of the major types, to the mating of a 
	specific speaker to a particular enclosure type/size.

COMPONENTS:

Types:

	Discuss the various types of components, from Headunit 
	features, to cross overs, etc.	We should refrain from judging 
	certain brands, but show how one should make a informed desision on 
	purchasing a component.

ALARMS:

	Standard features, tricks, opitional components, etc.	


SOUNDOFFS:
	
	Where to contact the various sound off competitions, etc.

ETC.

	This list is by no means all inclusive, nor should it be limited.
I'm more than willing to spend 5 to 10 hours a week on compiling the FAQ, 
but I need the help of others. If you feel you can contribute to one or more 
area, please feel free to drop me a line. I'm planning of having peer review 
of all work, to hammer out any inconsitancies, critique, etc. 

					Keith M Ryan
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: underdog@leland.Stanford.EDU (Dwight Joe)
Subject: 1-Speaker Radio & Car's Frame Serving as an Antenna
Organization: Miners for a Heart of Gold
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 92 08:08:17 GMT

Thank you to everyone who answered my previous post.  I now have a very
good idea about how to pop in a radio.

Now, the questions are the following.

(1) Are there any 1-speaker radios currently on the market?

Specifically, do they sell radios where the speaker is mounted on the _face_
of the radio next to the knobs?  Such a radio would preclude the necessity
of mounting a speaker in the doors or under the dash.

It might look ugly, but I don't care.  I don't want to have to do any
more installation work than is absolutely necessary.

(2) Also, is the metal frame of the car electrically isolated from
the battery?  I was thinking of clipping the antenna to the metal frame
of the body.  I think that the frame will serve as an adequate antenna,
provded that the metal frame is electrically isolated from the battery.

Actually, the setup is weird but very simple.  The entire frame 
will serve as one huge antenna.

------------------------------------------------------------------+------------
Jinsei no imi wa nan desu ka.                Sister, can you      |   \|  |`
Shitte itara oshiete kuremasen ka.           spare a coin?        |    | -+-
                                                                  |   /| / \
Copyright 1992.  Disclaimer:  1 + 1 = 3                           |
------------------------------------------------------------------+------------
From: kmr4@po.CWRU.edu (Keith M Ryan)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: DREAM SYSTEM...
Date: 11 Nov 92 04:06:17 GMT
Article-I.D.: po.kmr4.161.721454777
Organization: Case Western Reserve University
NNTP-Posting-Host: b64746.student.cwru.edu

In article <1992Nov10.211314.12013@nmsu.edu> miarmijo@nmsu.edu (Michael Albert Armijo) writes:
>Hey?! I was wondering how many of you readers have ever seen the ad by
>COUSTICS in Car Audio magizine, where the ad has like 20 amps and
>about 50 speakers connected to 4 crossovers?!  Well, do you think that
>the ad is true?  Is that really possible?

	One question: Why would you want it? 

	" If you can't get six speakers to sound accurate, how the hell can 
you get 20 speakers to?" - heard at a sound off competition.

>I also have a request about what you think the ultimate dream system
>would be- with amps and all!!!

	*sigh* how about if one untotaled my cougar, which a drunk driver so 
nicely decided to rearrange.
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car

>> We should probably move this discussion to sci.electronics or E-mail
>> if you wish to continue it.
>
>Yes, you should.  It is silly for two or three people to argue in front
>of a thousand.  Again, not trying to sound sarcastic, just making a
>point so dont go off and flame me.
>
>					just taking up space
>
>						Scott
>					    laflisc@wkuvm1
----------

OH SHUT UP!  I enjoy the public arguments.  Shows who has balls enough to
make a claim (even if wrong).  Society is filling up with wimps.

Oh yeah, 8-)

Kirk out
From: jsc52962@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Jeffrey S. Curtis)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: stiffening caps
Date: 5 Nov 92 00:59:36 GMT
Article-I.D.: news.Bx7xFE.7tG
Distribution: rec
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana

In article <1992Nov4.4948.7068@dosgate> "glen mead" <glen.mead@canrem.com> writes:
}jcg2@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (JASON GIRARD) writes:
}JG>I'm going to be running 800 watts off of four amps, and according to CA&
}JG>.8 Farad is recommended.  Should I run one .8 Farad cap off the main pow
}JG>cable or run smaller ones to each amp (i.e. .4 Farad to one amp, .2 to
}JG>another, and so on)?  .8 Farad should be enough, but would using smaller
}JG>for individual amps cater better to each amp's power demands?  Is there 
}JG>preferred method?  I'm a little pressed for space, but if running severa
}JG>is best, I'm sure I can find the room for them.
}
}I can't speak as an audio pro but I can say that running caps in parallel
}results in a capacitance which is the sum of the individual capacitances. 
}You probably wouldn't want to run a seperate cap for each amp since I
}believe the stiffening caps are needed for your sub-woofer amp(s) only. 
}Of course, assuming your amps power leads are all wired to the same
}voltage source, I guess there's no real reason to have them all in one
}spot.  One thing that does come to mind is that by running multiple
}smaller caps in parallel (say 4 x .2 farad), the caps will have faster
}recharge times when the bass notes hit.  

Yes, smaller caps will recharge quicker in general.  They can also
discharge faster, which is another plus.  I wouldn't say that you
only need them for your sub amps - it all depends on the power that
each amp is using.  Another advantage of using individual caps on
each amp's power lead is that you are able to place the cap very
close to the power terminal of the amp - you want it as close as
possible.  My recommendation to Glen would be to use individual caps,
but in quantities determined by each amp's power requirements, e.g.,
if you're using a 30W tweeter amp and a 200W sub amp, and listen to
a lot of bassy music, put a large cap (.2 to .3F) right near the sub
amp, and a smaller one (.02 to .03F) near the tweeter amp.  Granted,
if the bass hits hard, both caps would be feeding the sub amp anyway,
but I like the idea of putting the bigger one closer to the source
which is expected to use it the most.  Other suggestions?

Jeff
-- 
Jeffrey S. Curtis sidewinder@uiuc.edu | "Resplendent and full again, they revel
 The Power of 37  free2207 at uiucvmd | in their role as self-appointed critics
"To be great is to be misunderstood." | of the establishment..."
"Insist on yourself - never imitate." |   -- INXS _Welcome to Wherever You Are_
Organization: Freshman, CIT general, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 19:36:32 -0500 
From: Carey Alan Baird <cb4f+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: MacSpeakers program
	<1992Nov11.071816.16568@scott.skidmore.edu>

I recently aquired the program MacSpeakers for my macintosh computer.
I really haven't had much time to mess around with it yet, though it 
seems like a good program. Does anyone have this program or have experience 
with it, and could you give me a few pointers in using this program.
Since I don't have a lot of money, I buy expensive drivers and try to
build my own boxes. I would appreciate any help that you could give me 
with the program or speaker design.
thank you,

Carey
From: genocide@hale.cts.com (Gary Danko)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Car Alarm Recommendations needed
Date: Sun, 08 Nov 92 10:14:28 PST
Organization: Hale Telecommunications Inc.

pauls@ctron.com (Paul A. Simoneau) writes:

> A friend's car recently got broken into, and all of its
> contents (head unit, EQ, sub, sub amp) were stolen.  This
> made me think of my current (lack of) anti-theft protection.
> So, now I'm looking for recommendations for car alarms from
> the collective r.a.c. wisdom.
> 
> I'm not really looking for something that does *EVERYTHING*
> (ie open/close doors/windows/trunk, start car remotely,
> and other such silly stuff).  Just the necessities such as
> battery back up, "scan" proof, good sensors, possible routes
> of expansion, etc.    
> 
> So far, I've found the Alpine 8040B to be a pretty good looking
> system.  Anyone have any (good/bad) experience with this, or
> found any other systems that out perform it?  
> 
> Any comments, suggestions, advice will be greatly appreciated.
> If I get enough responses, I'll post the results that I get.
> 
> 
> Paul Simoneau
> pauls@ctron.com

look into the crimestoppper line. expensive but well worth it. i think 
most of them have about 9 outputs so that'll cover every base. i'm happy 
with my exacalbur but it has only 3 outs. :)
From: rslau@usc.edu (Robert Lau)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: fiberglass door pods?
Date: 5 Nov 1992 17:05:33 -0800
Organization: University of Southern California, USA
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: tarazed.usc.edu
In-reply-to: bednarek@picard.med.ge.com's message of Tue, 3 Nov 92 07:17:34 GMT

In article <1992Nov3.071734.11785@mr.med.ge.com> bednarek@picard.med.ge.com (Dennis Bednarek Mfg 4-6971) writes:

   from past experience I don't recommend speakers installed in doors.

Tell that to every car manufacturer, etc...

   By repeatedly closing, and ocasionally slamming the doors the
   heavey magnet starts the diaphram tearing, and eventually you have a 
   wrecked speaker. I had repeatedly been replacing and repairing the
   speakers on my Full Size Van that were door mounted.

Uh, the permanent magnet isn't attached to the cone.  If it were, you'd
need a hell of a field to make 2 pounds oscillate at anything above 1hz :)

I suspect that something else is causing the cone to rip, or do you mean
the surround?  Are your speakers getting wet?

-- 
Robert Lau - Systems Programmer, Unix Systems     213-740-2866
--  University Computing Services                 Internet: rslau@usc.edu
--  University of Southern California             Bitnet:   rslau@uscvm
--  1020 W Jefferson, LA, CA  USA, 90089-0251     UUCP:     ...!uunet!usc!rslau
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: ehawrysh@bcars6e7.bnr.ca (Evan Hawrysh)
Subject: Re: Some ALPINE Wiring Question
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd, Ottawa, Canada
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 92 13:08:40 GMT

In article <16891@umd5.umd.edu>, ui68@linus.umd.edu (Bill Kyte) writes:
|> 
|> The first set contains the following
|> Red=+12v
|> Yellow=12v(constant)
|> Brown w/white stripe=???????
|> Blue w/white stripe=???????
|> There is where my question is. But here are the other groups just for 
|> identification.
|> 
|> There are a few extras
|> Black=-12v
|> Pink=Audio in ???????
|> Blue=remote
|> RCA jacks
|> 
|>    Just a summary of my questions:
|> What are the Brown w/white stripe and Blue w/white stripe wires?  And what
|> is this audio in wire for and what do you connect to it (it has a bullet
|> connector on the end of it)?

Blue w/white: remote turn-on lead
Brown w/white: in pause (I've never seen Alpine explain this, but I suspect
it either puts out 12VDC when the unit is paused (do you have a pause button?)
or will pause the unit when 12VDC is applied. Can anyone confirm this?
Blue: power antenna lead
White w/blue: dimmer control lead (look out if you plan to hook this up in
a Ford, +12V to this lead gives maximum display dimming, the Ford rheostat
outputs +12V at maximum brightness
Pink w/whte: audio mute lead, a useful hookup if you've got a radar detector
and you blast the tunes while you blast down the hwy

It beats me what a pink only wire is for. Do you have RCA input jacks? Perhaps
12VDC on it will choose between an external input and the head unit's source.

|> 
|> This radio is about 3-4 years old and I just bought off of the original
|> owner for one hundred dollars last year.  The radio is all hooked up, and
|> works fine but I would like to find out what these wires are.
|> 
|>                                            -Bill Kyte
|> 

Hope this helps.

Evan
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: k124775@cc.tut.fi (Katajainen Tero)
Subject: Comments on Proton CA-250
Organization: Tampere University of Technology, Finland
Distribution: rec
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 92 10:30:49 GMT


Since this group has had a lot of discussion in the topic concerning the
car amplifier Proton ca-250, I'd like like to add a few comments. First,
CA-250 is NOT a DPD amplifier, Proton has atleast two car models, which 
are, but this one is not. (It will give 100w [20ms ON,80ms OFF] per channel,
though). Then there were some difficulties in understanding the specs of it.
20-..khz +-3db , 50-..khz +-1db , get it? I have had the amp for about 1 1/2
years now, and I won't put it to drive my front speakers like I used to. The
reason for this is the unpleasant sound it gives in the middle-range, probably 
due to the (assumed) low IM-distortion limit [.1%]. Now I have it attached to
Pioneer ts-w400 and it works just fine. The only major problem I have with it
is that I used WBT-jacks earlier and sold them recently, so all the other jacks
tend to have too small diameter to work properly :-< 

-- 
   If you drink a gallon o'BEER a day for 1200 months, you'll live up 
       to 100 years old ! (If your liver can take it.......=-))
Drivin'/Alfa Romeo Sprint QV\havin'/a lot's of tickets\listenin'/to Pioneer
KEX-M900RDS (+300 watts RMS [when I have installed 'em])\k124775@cc.tut.fi
From: madlemta@NeXTwork.Rose-Hulman.Edu (Troy A Madlem)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: 5th order sub box
Date: 5 Nov 92 21:50:02 GMT
Article-I.D.: master.1dc4uaINNjaa
Reply-To: madlemta@NeXTwork.Rose-Hulman.Edu (Troy A Madlem)
Organization: Computer Science Department at Rose-Hulman
NNTP-Posting-Host: o231-29.nextwork.rose-hulman.edu


	I have been addvised to build a fifth order box for a pair of  
12" Rockford Series 1 subs.  I know what a fourth order box consists  
of and know how to design one but I don't know what any of the higher  
order boxs consist of.  Could someone please lend me a hand designing  
one?  Any help would be greatly appreciated.  I would also like a  
description of higher order boxes.  Thanks alot for any help you can  
provide.

Troy Madlem

madlemta@nextwork.rose-hulman.edu

-- NewsGrazer, a NeXTstep(tm) news reader, posting --
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`
From: chiu@gpb-mac.sps.mot.com (Norman Chiu)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Crossover Questions
Date: 12 Nov 92 17:08:19 GMT
Article-I.D.: 222.chiu-121192110439
Followup-To: rec.audio.car
Organization: Motorola Inc.

In article <1992Nov10.165642@usho72.hou281.chevron.com>,
hhtra@usho72.hou281.chevron.com (T.M.Haddock) wrote:
> 
> 
>  If I have a midbass that has a range of 50-3000 Hz and a tweeter
>  with a range of 3000-22000k Hz, would it be okay/safe to use an
>  active crossover point of 3000 Hz with 18 dB slopes?
> 
>  If not, what crossover point and/or slope would be okay/safe?

The crossover point of 3K Hz should be ok; but I think the slope
should be 6dB, at most 12dB, and definitely NOT 18dB.  Generally,
you want the high frequency contents of the audio signal to die
down slower, so a better and detailed sound image can be present.

(BTW, I don't have any scientific proof of this statement, anyone
knows why this is the case, I really like to hear it)

   /|   /  chiu@gpb-mac.sps.mot.com  | Norman Chiu - Motorola Inc.
  / |  / ___________________________ | "We never gonna survive
 /  | / /  / /__/  /\/\   /_\   /| / |  unless we get a little
/   |/ /__/ /   \ /    \ /   \ / |/  |  crazy"       - Seal
From: kmr4@po.CWRU.edu (Keith M. Ryan)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Polk MM3065 Opinions
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 19:13:17 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University
NNTP-Posting-Host: b64746.student.cwru.edu

In article <26130109@hpcc01.corp.hp.com> kirk@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Kirk Lindstrom) writes:
>>	Hey man.  For more info than you care to read, just pick up
>>the December issue of Car Audio and Electronics.  It compares 6.5 and
>>tweets of Altec Lansing, AVI, Blau, Bostons, Clif Designs, Earthquake, 
>>and Polks.  There are three graphs and what is called a MLSSA graph. 
>>It compares time to freq to SPL.  Lots of info.
>>
>I wouldn't buy anything without first listening to MB Quart speakers.For
>my $, I liked MB Quart, Polk, a/d/s and BA Pro with Quart winning my
>sales dollar.

	I have found that in this price range, the MB Quarts, Polk, A/D/S 
and BA Pro lines are all excellent speakers. One's preference is more linked 
to one's listening habits than the components themselves. One ought to 
listen, and buy the one's that one likes the best. In my case, I prefer the 
eastcoast sound of the BA Pro's.