HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc

I too am an SS120 fan!  They have a great look and fly fantastic!!

Mine is in the shop right now, got into a flat spin and couldn't pull it
out in time.  I've had to completely rebuild the nose, so while I was
messing around, I decided to make it into a resemblance of a Schneider cup
racer.  I've moved the cockpit back behind the wing, mount my YS120
sideways and am making a removable hatch with 'V12' engine flairs up front.
That long nose sure looks neat!!

I also agree with the problems on wire gear for this bird.  I'm wondering
if I could get more detail from you on the aluminum gearing you used.  I
have not gotten to the repairs on my wing, and this would be a perfect
opportunity to make changes...


Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: hpl2@cec2.wustl.edu (Hoeng Poc Lim)
Subject: Helicopter
Organization: Washington University, St. Louis Mo.
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1992 18:47:17 GMT

	Hi, I am new to this news group. I was just wondering if there was
a FAQ for helicopters? The FAQ for was quite useful, but it would be better
still if it included helicopters. :-)

							HPL
From: mm7q+@andrew.cmu.edu (Michael Oliver Muller)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Controlling Glow Plugs
Date: 12 Apr 92 18:42:22 GMT
	<1992Apr10.082706.1926@inland.com>
Organization: Junior, Mechanical Engineering, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA


>I don't really understand your question.  You want to have a way 
>to control the current thru the plug element.  On my power panel, 
>about 3 amps gives a nice bright orange heat to the element.  The 
>only way I know how to alter the current in a fixed resistance 
>circuit (glow plug) is to alter the voltage that the plug sees.

Two questions about this comment:

1.     Does the resistance change as the glow plug heats up?

2.     What is the resistance of a glow plug?

Mike Muller, mm7q@andrew.cmu.edu
From: careyb@mexia.NoSubdomain.NoDomain (Brian Carey 283-4181)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: input for Herky-Bird project
Keywords: C-130 Herky multy
Date: 17 Apr 1992 16:17:18 GMT
Organization: MDSSC-HD


   I have recently purchased the plans for a C-130 \`Herky-Bird\', scale 1:18, 
from Palmer Plans in Beverly Hills. I would appreciate any comments on 
this set of planes, and good set of photos to reference when finishing this 
model. 
   I would also appreciate input on a good reliable 0.25 2-cycle engine to be
used in this project.

Brian Carey 
careyb@sweetpea.jsc.nasa.gov
From: john@kennel.FIDONET.ORG (John Hamilton)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Hamilton Hobbies
Date: 15 Apr 92 05:20:02 GMT
Organization: Fido's Kennel, Cupertino CA

Send me direct netmail, and specify one or more of the following,
and I will put you on a list to mail monthly specials listings to
by subject. You may specify more than one area, or make them up!
 
boats, sail
boats, power
cars, electric
cars, gas
planes, electric
planes, gas
planes, sail
 
Thanks!
 
John Hamilton
Hamilton Hobbies
1010 Morse Ave., #14
Sunnyvale, CA 94088
(408) 744-1969

--  
John Hamilton                  uucp: uts.amdahl.com!kennel!john
DoD #0327   ToT #11            internet: john@f8.n143.z1.fidonet.org
ZX-11 From Hell.               arpa: john@kennel.FIDONET.ORG
She said, "Its either me or that ZX-11!" Too bad, I'll miss her.
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Constant resistance Glow Plug reference
From: elec140@csc.canterbury.ac.nz
Date: 15 Apr 92 11:57:09 +1200
 <kduXYwC00WBK09fWFs@andrew.cmu.edu> <1992Apr14.145407.27766@cbnewsl.cb.att.com>
Organization: University of Canterbury, Christchurch, New Zealand

I got a few queries about the circuit for the constant resistance glow plug
controller, so here is the reference:

Electronics Today International
June 1983

I've just noticed that it's an Australian magazine, and considering it's age I
don't suppose many people will have access to it. The circuit is not too
complex, however it's more than I'd like to try in ASCII. If you want to know
more send me some email. If I get enough interest I'll see what I can do.

BTW I wouldn't recommend this circuit to someone without a little electronics
knowledge unless you can actually get hold of the article. Also, it involves
winding an inductor, although this is actually fairly non-critical.

*********************************************************
Chris Kaiser
Postgrad - Elec Eng Dept
Canterbury University
Christchurch, NEW ZEALAND

E.MAIL: kaiser@elec.canterbury.ac.nz
*********************************************************
	"When you're fresh out of lawyers
 	 You don't know how good it's gonna feel"
		- Al Stewart, 1988
*********************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: lesnyd@monsanto.com (Larry Snyder)
Subject: Re: 2 stroke vs. 4 stroke engines
Organization: Monsanto Company
Distribution: rec.models.rc
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1992 17:38:43 GMT

I fly a little plane with a .20 2-stroke  (K&B Sportster .20) and a big 
plane with a Saito FA120S 4-stroke. 

Similarities:

1. Both start very easily. I use an electric starter but don't need to, 
really. I just like my fingers.

2. Both are dependable.

3. Both idle well.

Differences:

1. The K&B cost $40, the Saito $300

2. The Saito is more picky about fuel draw.

In general, I really like 4-strokes. I love the sound they make. I've had 
a couple of little 2-strokes that gave up the ghost rather quickly. Of 
course, the only 4-stroke I own is a big one, but I plan on building a 
smaller sport plane with a .50-sized 4-stroke in it. If money were no 
object, I'd go to all 4-strokes. How can someone fiddle with one all day? 
Unless the plane wasn't put together right (so fuel draw is a problem), 
all you have to mess with is the needle valve.  I haven't seen anybody out 
my way having engine troubles with 4-strokes.

|***************************************|
| Larry E. Snyder - lesnyd@monsanto.com |
|    Opinions are mine, mostly          |
|***************************************|
From: bdd0066@zeus.tamu.edu (Bryan, kick the tire and light the fire, Duke)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Slats v.s Flaps
Date: 16 Apr 92 04:02:00 GMT
Organization: Texas A&M University, Academic Computing Services
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <2224@transfer.stratus.com>, spenny@sw.stratus.com (Steve Pennypacker) writes...
>In article <1992Apr14.210454.16695@bmerh2.bnr.ca>, petera@bcrka398.bnr.ca (Peter Ashwood-Smith 1600361) writes:
>> 
>Several years ago, there were either one or two articles on a plane called the 
>Crane in Model Aviation.  It was a T-tail with lots of high-lift features like
>slats and either slotted or Fowler flaps, and probably a high lift airfoil and
>maybe STOL wingtips.  This was probably 7 or 8 years ago.  If you're really

I think the Crane had drooped leading edges, not slats.  Slats (fixed
or not) have a space between them and the rest of the wing that air
can (sometimes) pass through.  Drooped leading edges let no air pass
through.  A friend of mine has drooped leading edges on his full
sized Vari-EZ (only near the wing tips).  I think about the time
the Crane came out, NASA was doing some drooped l.e. work--anyway...
Both slats and droops can (and normally do) increase lift under
certain conditions.  

The crane also used Fowler flaps.  Basically, these are flaps, shaped
like an airfoil that can produce *tons* of extra lift.  When they
are tucked into the wing (up position), the wing has virtually no
deformities and acts like any non flapped foil should.  The differenced
between them and normal flaps are their shape and their hinge location.
Like I said, the flaps are shaped like airfoils.  They are actually
hinged *below* the wing.  When they are extended, they have the effect
of increasing the chord and the camber.  Wings with them (extended)
can have lift coefficients (Cl) of 3.0+.  A non-flapped wing might have a
Cl of .7-1.0.  A normally flapped wing has a Cl somewhere in the 1.25-1.5
range.  

Anyway.......

Flaps and slats can drastically improve slow speed performance.  However,
they require extra luggage--more weight which can hurt high end 
performance (and low end performance when the flaps are not in use).

Bryan.
From: miked@syscon.rn.com (Mike DeMetz)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Controlling Glow Plugs
Date: 14 Apr 92 13:21:15 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Syscon International - Corporate Headquarters

Michael Oliver Muller <mm7q+@andrew.cmu.edu> writes:

>From previous discussion, a glow plug has a resistance of about 0.5
>ohms, after it gets hot. 
>Would the following circuit work?


>               _____________/\/\/\/\_____________....________
>              |                3.5 Ohms                      |  
>              |                                              \
>           ------  12V Battery                               /   Glow plug
>             --                                              \   0.5 Ohms
>              |                                              /
>              |                                              |
>              |__________________________________....._______|

>        Ohm's law: V = RI
>        Assuming a 3 Amp current, and that the glow plug heats up 
>        instantaniously,
>                   12 = 3.5(3) + 0.5(3)
>                   12 = 10.5 + 1.5
>                   12 = 12
       Power = I^2*R
       31.5W = 3A^2*3.5

That is a big resistor. A pot that size would probably not fit in
your flight box. You also waste a lot of you battery power in heat.

>Why doesn't a simple circuit like this work? There is a three amp
>current through the glow plug, and a 1.5V drop across it. It makes
>sense, yet no one markets this type of circuit. How about replacing the
>3.5 Ohm resistor with an adjustable resistor to allow for variations in
>different glow plugs? (Do adjustable resistors exist?)
From: tse@ra.nrl.navy.mil (Anthony Tse)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Pulse Jet Engine
Date: 17 Apr 92 02:42:12 GMT
Organization: Naval Research Labratory, Washington, DC

In article <15APR199221163526@zeus.tamu.edu= bdd0066@zeus.tamu.edu (Bryan, kick the tire and light the fire, Duke) writes:
=In article <1992Apr9.173014.1694@vax1.mankato.msus.edu=, ultra10@vax1.mankato.msus.edu writes...
==There is an add I see all the time in RCM for the plans to a pulse jet engine
==you can build out of an aerosol can. JET ENGINE TECHNOLOGIES in Tx, sells the 
==plans.
=I ordered both sets of plans (3 & 7 hp) plans.  Don't order both.  
=They are just about the same.  
=
=The engines are easy to build.  I took about an afternoon to build
=the smaller one.  I have yet to make a fuel system for it, so I
=don't have it running yet.  Due to the way a pulse jet works, i don't
=think you could slow it down very much.  It's probably pretty much a 
=full military power all the time kinda thing.   

   Did you read the latest RCM.  A real turbojet for $3500, with
throttle control.  Pretty niffty.

-Anthony
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: Iskandar Taib <ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu>
Subject: Another net.deal: Taipan props!
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 19:00:18 -0500


Hi all..

I am about to embark on a foolish venture and buy a couple hundred 
dollars worth of props. "Why?" ask you. "Because I fly C/L Combat"
says I.

Well here is the deal. At this volume I can get dealers prices. eg: 
7x4 and 7x6 props at $4.27 for 10. 

The bulk of my order shall be small (7" and 8") props for my and a 
couple other peoples' use. But I figured some of you guys might also 
want some props. So here is what I suggest. Write me a mail message
telling me what you want. I'll add them to the order.

Here are what I am paying for them. For your price add maybe a dollar 
fifty per pack of 10 (so I have some incentive to go hunt for boxes) and 
a couple bucks for shipping to the total order. Sound good?

OK here are what I am paying for em (prices are for 10-packs):

7x4,7x6		$4.27
8x4,8x6		$4.81
9x4,9x6		$6.43
10x4,10x6	$7.51
11x5,11x7	$8.59


Again, hope the flamers stay away. This is not a commercial venture. 
I'm simply wanting to share my good fortune in finding this deal. 
If too many people want props I may have to call it off.. I'm put-
ting the money for it up front and only have so much. If you want a
huge number of props I'll gladly tell you where these come from 
AFTER I get my order in  9-)

Oops.. better explain what Taipan props are. They are made Down Un-
der, and are reinforced plastic. They have gotten quite a good repu-
tation in Combat circles, not blowing apart like Master Airscrews
do when mounted on Combat Specials. They come in orange, grey and
black, so tell me what your order of preference would be color-wise. 
Not all sizes are available in all colors unfortunately.

Write me soon.. this is Tuesday 14th and I'd like to put my check in 
the mail by Friday. 




-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Iskandar Taib                          | The only thing worse than Peach ala
Internet: NTAIB@SILVER.UCS.INDIANA.EDU |    Frog is Frog ala Peach
Bitnet:   NTAIB@IUBACS                 !
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: bloom@inland.com
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Pulse Jet Engine
Date: 13 Apr 92 14:22:38 GMT
Organization: Inland Steel Company; East Chicago, IN

In article <1992Apr9.173014.1694@vax1.mankato.msus.edu>, ultra10@vax1.mankato.msus.edu writes:
> There is an add I see all the time in RCM for the plans to a pulse jet engine
> you can build out of an aerosol can. JET ENGINE TECHNOLOGIES in Tx, sells the 
> plans.
> 
> I am wondering if anyone has bought the plans and tried to make the engine ?
> If so - Did it work? What kind of thrust did you get? Could you throttle down
> to near zero thrust without the flame going out?
> Is it easy to build ?
> 
> -Rob

Any ad you see with a jet engine you can build is a scam.  There is no 
such thing as a throttle on a pulse jet engine - it cannot work that 
way.  An aerosol can?   Ho ho ho ho hee hee ha ha ha.  The other scam 
is the turbine engine you can build from common household items. 
Real (not to be confused with non working models) gas turbines require 
high temperature heat resistant alloys, like nickel based superalloys. 
Do you have any of this material stashed away in a kitchen drawer?
From: petera@bcrka398.bnr.ca (Peter Ashwood-Smith 1600361)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: 2 stroke vs. 4 stroke engines
Date: 10 Apr 92 13:48:21 GMT
Reply-To: petera@bcrka398.bnr.ca (Peter Ashwood-Smith 1600361)
Distribution: rec.models.rc
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Ottawa, Canada


   One mistake I used to make adjusting my OS120 4 stroke was to expect
the needle valve adjustment to respond more or less instantaneously like
with a screaming 40 2 stroke. The problem is that the 4 strokes take a
second or so to respond to the new needle valve setting which means that
if you are impatient you are never able to get it "just right". One
other thing worth noting is that 4 strokes do not suddenly increase by
500 or so RPM when you hit the right setting, I go by the color of the
exhaust but I suspect a tach would be the best bet. Starting is also
quite different from a 2 stroke, because you must choke quite a bit. I
give mine usually 3-4 turns choked and one flip wearing a heavy glove
has it running 9 times out of 10. 

    At $300-$400 a pop a 4 stroke is expensive but nothing beats their
sound on the ground and in the air. In my opinion all model engines are
beautiful, some are just more beautiful than others! 

    Peter Ashwood-Smith
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: tmorris@convex.com (Terry Morris)
Subject: Re: Controlling Glow Plugs
Organization: Engineering, CONVEX Computer Corp., Richardson, Tx., USA
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 17:15:22 GMT
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by a user at CONVEX Computer
              Corp. The opinions expressed are those of the user and
              not necessarily those of CONVEX.

	My father recently designed a glow driver for Radio South. The unit
uses active components and is is now in it's prototype manufacturing stage,
i.e. a few units are being passed out to fliers in the Pensacola area
for evaluation. The unit also has the capability to clean fouled plugs or
help start flooded engines by means of a CONTROLLED series of pulses on
command. It reports plug status and current consumption back to the operator
through a series of led indicators. Should be in the shops this summer.
From: johnson@nrtc.northrop.com (Greg Johnson)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Cycling and recharging Nicads:  HELP
Date: 11 Apr 92 00:22:44 GMT
Reply-To: johnson@nrtc.northrop.com (Greg Johnson)

This question has gone around rec.models.rc at least a time or two, but I
guess it's a fond Usenet tradition for certain threads to crop up
cyclically ;-).  The topic is care and feeding of Nicads; cycling them,
re-charging them, etc.  (I'd never had a problem before, so I have always
`n'd Nicad care and feeding discussions before this.)  Perhaps a Nicad
expert could add a section to the rec.models.rc FAQ.

My problem is this:

The on-board battery pack of my helicopter seems to be running out of juice
quite a bit faster than it used to.  I assume this is because I never cycle
my batteries, other than the `natural' way:  flying as long as I dare and
then recharging them over night.  I use an `HD' brand load-inducing
voltmeter between flights.

What I have in mind is to manually cycle the receiver and transmitter
batteries:  just leave the receiver (resp. transmitter) on, periodically
check with the voltmeter until they are as low as I should let them go,
and then charge them over night.  Does this sound reasonable?

My question:  How low should I let the voltage go when I'm running them
down before I recharge them?  The HD voltmeter has two scales, one for
the transmitter and one for the reciever.  They go from 8.8 to 11.4 and
from 4.0 to 5.6.  I assume the bigger numbers are for the transmitter,
but I'm not sure.

If I do monitor them with the voltmeter, how far down should I let them
go on these scales?

One idea would be to just forget about monitoring them with a voltmeter
and leave them on until they are good and dead.  Is this bad for Nicads?
Will I suffer the heartbreak of polarity reversal or something like that?

Thanks in advance for any help!

Greg Johnson
johnson@ntrc.northrop.com
Autorotation:  the ultimate flat spin
From: ultra10@vax1.mankato.msus.edu
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Ambrosia RC aircraft simulator
Date: 15 Apr 92 23:02:02 GMT
Article-I.D.: vax1.1992Apr15.170202.1733
Organization: Mankato State University

I have the flight simulator made by Ambrosia Micomputer Products for the mac.
It is a great aid in learning to fly. My question is if anyone knows if there
is a more current version that will run on the mac II series. I have tried to
reach Ambrosia Microcomputer Products in Hinsdale, IL by mail but my letter was
returned, no forwarding address was left. Did the company move or go out of
business ? If they moved could someone please send me the new address ?
thankyou --> Rob McBride
From: spenny@sw.stratus.com (Steve Pennypacker)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Slats v.s Flaps
Date: 16 Apr 92 20:07:21 GMT
Organization: Stratus Computer, Inc.

In article <15APR199223020115@zeus.tamu.edu>, bdd0066@zeus.tamu.edu (Bryan, kick the tire and light the fire, Duke) writes:
> In article <2224@transfer.stratus.com>, spenny@sw.stratus.com (Steve Pennypacker) writes...
> >In article <1992Apr14.210454.16695@bmerh2.bnr.ca>, petera@bcrka398.bnr.ca (Peter Ashwood-Smith 1600361) writes:
> >> 
> >Several years ago, there were either one or two articles on a plane called the 
> >Crane in Model Aviation.  It was a T-tail with lots of high-lift features like
> >slats and either slotted or Fowler flaps, and probably a high lift airfoil and
> >maybe STOL wingtips.  This was probably 7 or 8 years ago.  If you're really
> 
> I think the Crane had drooped leading edges, not slats.  Slats (fixed
> or not) have a space between them and the rest of the wing that air
> can (sometimes) pass through.  Drooped leading edges let no air pass
> through.  A friend of mine has drooped leading edges on his full

Actually, I think we're both right.  All of this is from memory, so forgive 
me if I'm wrong (or just flame me... but I'll flame back :-)  The Crane was
essentially a testbed for high-lift devices.  I think there were two (or more) 
versions of the same basic airplane, and they probably used both slats and
drooped leading edges at different times or on different wings.  Anyone care
to dig out the article?

By the way, if you really want to see high lift devices in action, just look
out the window on your next airline flight.  They all have Fowler flaps (at
least all the ones I've flown on) which really increase the wing area, and
most or all have one type of leading edge device or another.
-- 
     Steve Pennypacker		     PP-ASEL

     spenny@wiley.ts.stratus.com     Stephen_Pennypacker@vos.stratus.com
From: jrp@bohra.cpg.oz.au (John Pitman)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: soft engine mounts
Date: 8 Apr 92 12:16:49 GMT
Organization: Computer Power Software

Hi there
I have been running soft engine mounts on two planes so far. 1st is aSIG
KOUGAR with an OS 46SF, piped. This has been flying for over 4 years with
lord style rubbers. there is a fair bit of movement at idle, but it smooths
out ok as the revs rise. With a 10x6 MA @ 14000, it gave ~ 89DB at 3metres,
and was noticeably quieter in the air than before the rubbers went in. 
Have never had any trouble with the rubbers, despite the female thread depth
being only about 3/16".
The 2nd plane is a KING KOBRA with an OS 61 (blackhead).  this time I couldn't
get the lord style rubbers, so had to use locally made units with male threads
on both sides. the rubber part is almost identical in size ~ 5/8 long, 5/8 dia.
These have turned out to be much softer rubbers, and the movemnemnt at idle
is even worse, but the plane is very quiet (partly the very good pipe muffling)
in the air.
All in all I thoroughly recommend soft mounts where there is room, and you
are even slightly serious. The only drawbacks are the need to plan ahead a bit
and setting up a pipe bracket to cope with the movement up front.
From: johnson@nrtc.northrop.com (Greg Johnson)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Lomcevaks
Date: 6 Apr 92 16:23:55 GMT
Reply-To: johnson@nrtc.northrop.com (Greg Johnson)


An interesting thread has developed about Lomcevaks.  Here is my technique:

1) full throttle (throughout the manuever), build up speed
2) 45 or so degree climb
3) go to left knife edge
4) shove both sticks in their respective upper left corners

The airplane neatly kicks its tail up over the nose.  For this to work, you
need LOTS of down elevator authority.  A rearward CG also helps.

Interestingly, none of my RC materials suggested the above entry; the
entries suggested were variations of entering an upright snap and then
shoving the right stick forward.  I got the above from a full-scale
aerobatics book named Flight Unlimited by Eric Muller.  The technique
described above is the best one I've found.  It works for my EZ Pitts
Special, and it worked great for a friend's 1/4 scale cap 21.  Now THAT
was an impressive sight!

Greg Johnson
johnson@nrtc.northrop.com

Autorotation:  the ultimate flat spin
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc