HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: paul@xcluud.sccsi.com (Paul Hutmacher)
Subject: Re: PVC plumbing
Keywords: PVC, CPVC
Organization: Greater Montrose UFO Appreciation Society & Data Haven
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 04:38:01 GMT

In article <9452@wrgate.wr.tek.com> bobh@wrgate.wr.tek.com writes:
>My plan was to use 1/2" sched. 40 PVC for cold water lines and 3/4" sched.
>40 CPVC for hot water, but I have a couple of questions. First of all, the
>local building code allows the use of PVC for cold water, but the county
>inspector tells me that the manufacturer won't guarantee it for use in a
>house.

That sounds like the inspector doesn't know what he's talking about.  PVC
fitting manufacturers like Spears, Eslon, Sloane, etc. intend their products
to be used in both commercial and residential installations.  The only thing
they specifically mention as voiding the warranty is compressed air service.

>It's ok for supply lines from the street to the house,
>but indoor use is risky.

The only risk you might run into is pipe freezing during the winter.  Of course
that can burst any pipe so it's not really a problem if your pipe is installed
properly and well insulated.

>Has anybody on the net had negative or positive experience with PVC in this
>application?

I sell plastic pipe for a living.  When we built a new sales office in Pasadena
I insisted that it be piped in PVC for the cold and CPVC for the hot stuff.
Of course I used schedule 80 rather than 40 but that's because it's a bit 
stronger and I get a good price on it :)

>My second question has to do with the proper diameter of CPVC to use. It
>seems odd to me that the stuff they call 3/4" CPVC has approximately the
>same inner diameter as 1/2" galvanized, copper and PVC. I selected 3/4" 
>CPVC only because the 1/2" CPVC had such a narrow inner diameter that I 
>feared an unacceptable pressure drop. What diameter of CPVC is the most
>common for indoor residential use?

The CPVC you're seeing is probably copper tube size (CTS) CPVC and not 
iron pipe size (IPS) like sch. 40 or sch. 80 material.  It's a light tan
color and usually is used in residential plumbing.  That's why it's smaller
than its like sized PVC stuff.  CPVC sch. 80 or 40 material is probably
harder to find in hardware stores but would be a wiser choice since it
has a heavier wall.

Good luck and let me know if you need any pipe :)

-- 
Paul Hutmacher  |     paul@xcluud.sccsi.com      |  .. like desperados
Houston, Texas  |  {nuchat,lobster}!xcluud!paul  |  waiting for a train.
From: fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com (Fred Christiansen)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: What is Thermax?
Date: 14 Apr 92 16:39:10 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Motorola Computer Grp (TSD), Tempe (Arizona, 14th in apple production)

In a building-related magazine I came across a reference to Thermax.
No explanation as to what it was.  The context was frame sheathing.

Code around here requires CDX on corners, but flakeboard is OK elsewhere.
I'm guessing Thermax is a sheathing board with some insulation properties.
There might be value in using it instead of of flakeboard.  The chap I talked
to in Home Depot last night had never heard of such (he was not "Homer", tho).

p.s.  Particle board seems to be a standard name used for what goes into
furniture and inexpensive, tract-home-type cabinetry.  But is there a standard
term for the board that looks like a bunch of wood chips glued and pressed
together?  I've heard it called pressboard, flakeboard, waferboard, and
chipboard.
-- 
Fred Christiansen, Motorola TSD (DW278), 2900 S. Diablo Way, Tempe, AZ  85282
fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com  ||  uunet!phx.mcd.mot.com!fredch  ||  +1 602-438-3464
  For the Lord gives wisdom:  out of His mouth comes knowledge
    and understanding (Prov 2:6).
From: lfischer@dartagnan.rutgers.edu (Lfischer)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Thatching attachment
Date: 6 Apr 92 17:10:02 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

I dont know about a rake on the front of a mower, but I do know that I
spent a few hours de-thatching my lawn this weekend.  It required Many
strokes per square foot of lawn.  A casual pass would not have done
what needed to be done...
My out of shape arms are a testament to that.

Larry Fischer
From: sch@gargoyle.unx.sas.com (Steve Holzworth)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Inspection clauses (Re: Things to look for when buying a house)
Date: 8 Apr 92 20:05:33 GMT
Article-I.D.: unx.1992Apr8.200533.4937
    <mjc.702672303@NL.CS.CMU.EDU>
Organization: SAS Institute Inc.
Originator: sch@gargoyle.unx.sas.com
X-Bytes: 2230

In article <mjc.702672303@NL.CS.CMU.EDU>, mjc+@cs.cmu.edu (Monica Cellio) writes:
>pickel@mcnc.org (Lisa C. Pickel) writes:
>[offer contingent on inspection]

stuff deleted

>
>The wording my realtor offerred me (which I rejected) was something like:
>"...contingent upon an inspection that turns up no significant problems
>(where significant is defined as costing more than $500 to fix)".  I 

Yeah, this sucks. Glad you didn't accept it.

>insisted that there be a "total limit" as well, so I didn't get hit with
>a dozen $499 problems, and so mine included the phrase "...or $1500 in
>the aggregate", which wording was supplied by my lawyer.  This still left
>open the question of what defines a problem that has to be fixed; I would
>suggest something like: "contingent upon an inspection that turns up no
>problems rated as "marginal" or "failed" by a qualified ASHI inspector that
>cost more than $X each or $Y in the aggregate".  If you can get away with
>it, try for the even more general "contingent on an inspection satisfactory
>to the buyer" -- this lets *you* define "satisfactory" (but they probably
>won't go for it).
>
>I'm not a lawyer or a realtor.
>
>Monica

When I made the offer on my house, my inspection clause was (to paraphrase)
'if anything found by the inspector causes me concern, I have the option
of bailing out without loss, or requesting it be fixed to my satisfaction
by the seller'. I was a hardass about it because I had JUST had a bad
experience with ANOTHER contract. I discovered that the deck on the back
of the house was built OVER a city easement. The corner of the house was
tangent to the easement. The builder tryed to "assure" me by offering to
rebuild the deck if the city ever tore it down, but I wouldn't have it.
It's a shame too, becuase this was *MY HOUSE*. It had all the features I
was looking for (after six months of searching), and was reasonably priced.
I have since found out that this builder (a large one in this area) tends
to cut corners on infrastructure. As long as it is minimal code, and noone
can see it, they scrimp.

Note: on the house i bought, there WERE some problems. I opted to have them
repaired, and bought the house.

Steve Holzworth
sch@unx.sas.com
From: ostroff@Oswego.EDU (Boyd Ostroff)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: hollow-core door questions
Date: 9 Apr 92 17:25:39 GMT
Reply-To: ostroff@oswego.Oswego.EDU (Boyd Ostroff)
Organization: Instructional Computing Center, SUNY at Oswego, Oswego, NY

In article <1992Apr8.203042.19242@stsci.edu> mryan@stsci.edu (Mary Ryan) writes:
>
>All my interior doors are hollow-core.

>I would also like to put some coat hooks on the inside of a closet door,
>and put a mirror on the outside of one.  What kind of fasteners should I
>use?

They make expanding fasteners for use in drywall and hollow core doors.
You should be able to find them at any hardware store.  You drill a hole
and insert them like so:



               FASTENER
                =======
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX| |XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX DOOR SURFACE
                  | |
                  | |
                  +++


Then you tighten down the bolt, which collapses the part inside the door like
so:


                =======
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX| |XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
                  / \
                  \ /
                  +++

After they have collapesed they will not fit back through the hole and
hold tight to the door.  They are fine as long as you don't put a lot
of weight on them (I put up towel racks and hooks in my bathroom years
ago and they have not been a problem).

.............................................................................
....Boyd Ostroff / Technical Director / SUNY Oswego Department of Theatre....
...............Voice: (315) 341-2987 /  Fax: (315) 341-3394..................
..............ostroff@oswego.oswego.edu / ostroff@cboard.UUCP................
From: macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Seeking info on 'mechanics lien' on house
Date: 7 Apr 92 18:05:44 GMT
Article-I.D.: next4.MACRAKIS.92Apr7140544
	<1992Apr7.151619.4836@oswego.Oswego.EDU>
Distribution: usa
Organization: OSF Research Institute

I suggested getting lien waivers (from contractor and suppliers) and
paraphrased their content.

In article <1992Apr7.151619.4836@oswego.Oswego.EDU> ostroff@Oswego.EDU
(Boyd Ostroff) pointed out that my precise wording did not cover
materials attached to the house.  This is true, and is why I said "For
precise wording, check any book on dealing with contractors."

You do not need a lawyer for this.  Lien waivers are well-understood,
and a form should work.

	-s
From: fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com (Fred Christiansen)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: urethane spray foam insulation
Date: 10 Apr 92 19:26:00 GMT
Organization: Motorola Computer Grp (TSD), Tempe (Arizona, 14th in apple production)

In article <1992Apr9.204204.3063@unx.sas.com> sasbge@ant.unx.sas.com writes:
>In article <1992Apr8.234948.4123@phx.mcd.mot.com>,fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com wrote:
>>I've been thinking 2x6 walls with R-19 batts plus 1" white styrofoam (R3.6?)
>>with stucco over ext sheathing.  Might be able to cut out some of the up-front
>>costs by going to 2x4 walls with 3" sprayed foam and stucco directly over
>>the sheathing (+ felt paper).
>
>If you go with 2x6 studs on the perimeter, you can space them 24" on center
>instead of the 2x4/16" on center method.  Your local building codes may
>vary.  The wider gap decreases the number of gaps and thus the total
>"uninsulated" space.

Yes, I know about 24" OC when using 2x6.  Apart from what kind of insulation
you can put in, using 2x6 24" OC consumes 11" of wood, while using 2x4 16" OC
consumes 10.5" of wood.  Thus, including window and door frames and top plates,
you consume more wood using 2x6.  20% more seems typical.  Add to that the need
to use thicker wallboard.  The cost for this part of framing is thus about
20% more.  We argue that it's a good thing to do because you can put in
more insulation (R-11 to R-19) and have fewer thermal gaps (few studs)
thereby saving energy and utility costs.

However, if you use urethane foam in 2x4 walls, you get excellent insulation
R-values (not just "in theory", but genuine "installed" R-value performance
improvement, gaps notwithstanding).  But this form of insulation is going
to cost more.  Using 2x4 framing eases the first cost.  The question
then becomes one of payback.

The questions in my first posting remain.

(Btw, the flap about toxic emissions from foam insulation is, ostensibly,
from when installers, particularly in manufactured homes such as mobiles,
used urea formaldehyde.  Reputedly, the urethane foam is inert, neutral, etc.)
-- 
Fred Christiansen, Motorola TSD (DW278), 2900 S. Diablo Way, Tempe, AZ  85282
fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com  ||  uunet!phx.mcd.mot.com!fredch  ||  +1 602-438-3464
  For the Lord gives wisdom:  out of His mouth comes knowledge
    and understanding (Prov 2:6).
Organization: University of Maine System
Date: Monday, 13 Apr 1992 17:18:16 EDT
From: <SAUDA@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Real Estate Lawyers

Does anyone have any tips as to what to look for when trying to
line up a lawyer to assist in buying a house?  (To deal with
purchase agreements, titles, etc.)

M
From: bb2@cbnewse.cb.att.com (william.bugar)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Siding query, Aluminum vs. Vinyl
Keywords: siding
Date: 7 Apr 92 16:28:00 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T

I'm thinking of having siding/soffit/fascia covered with something
and am looking for opinions on Aluminum vs. Vinyl.
Thanks
Bill Bugar
From: mjohnson@stake.DaytonOH.NCR.COM (Marget Johnson)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Laminated HW Flooring
Date: 8 Apr 92 20:50:12 GMT
Organization: Stakeholder Relations, NCR Corp in Dayton,OH

<22503@dog.ee.lbl.gov>
Reply-To: marget.johnson@stake.DaytonOH.NCR.COM (Marget Johnson)
Organization: Stakeholder Relations, NCR Corp in Dayton,OH

In article <22503@dog.ee.lbl.gov> mike@shemesh.lbl.gov (Michael Helm) writes:
>In article <796@stake.DaytonOH.NCR.COM> mjohnson@stake.DaytonOH.NCR.COM
(Marget Johnson) writes:
>>family room, hall, living & dining rooms, and master bath. (Expensive?
>>About $8,000). 
>
>How much per sq ft does this work out to?
>
>BTW your reply-to address doesn't appear to work.
>Thanks,
>==mwh
The cost is about $5.25 per square foot. If you can get the Bruce hardwood
flooring strips on sale ($95 per 25 sq. ft box) instead of the undiscounted
$115-125 per box, and the installer's rate is $1.25-1.50 per sq. foot, you can
do it for less. It pays to shop around, but unless you are planning to DIY,
don't skimp on a competent professional installer. 

Note that the wide pine floor costs $25.00 per sq. ft, not including floor
surface prep. The wide pine looks much better, but our house isn't worth the
extra investment.

Your're right about the Reply To in the original posting. I forgot that there
are 100's of M Johnsons at NCR. Must use first name, too.
.........................................................................
marget.johnson@daytonOH.NCR.COM

-- 
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: staffan@ca.serum.kodak.com (Kenneth Staffan (x37507))
Subject: Re: Mortgage brokers
Organization: Eastman Kodak
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1992 12:27:02 GMT

In article <MACRAKIS.92Apr8140622@next4.osf.org> macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis) writes:
>In article <1992Apr6.234420.19394@erg.sri.com> marie@paris.erg.sri.com (Marie desJardins) writes:
>[...]
>   How much do they charge?
>
>Depends.  Ask.  They typically charge a `markup' which you don't see.

I wonder how you wouldn't see this.  The "Good Faith Estimate of Closing
Costs" is supposed to itemize everything.  Now if it is built into the
application fee or something, then you should be able to see the difference
from other broker's/bank's application fees.

Ken
From: chrism@hpic001.mentorg.com (Chris McCabe)
Subject: Re: Drywall texturing and painting
Originator: chrism@hpic001
Date: Wed, 08 Apr 1992 16:49:19 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Mentor Graphics 
Keywords: 
Followup-To: 


In article <11739@sail.LABS.TEK.COM>, vallath@vishnu.foo.tek.com (Vallath Nandakumar ) writes:

|> I would like to put down texture on the wall before painting
|> it with latex.  What is the right thing to do?

|> Do you know if no primer is needed after the texturing?  The

  The texture may be mixed with the primer so that the priming and
texturing is done at the same time.  That may be what they are doing.

-Chris
-- 
Chris McCabe   chris_mccabe@mentorg.com
    Mentor Graphics Corporation       
(503) 685-7000 (w)   (503) 232-4250 (h)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: bishop@b23a.ingr.com (David Bishop)
Subject: Double-pane glass condensation problem
Organization: Intergraph
Distribution: misc
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 16:15:20 GMT

Hi netters,

In my house, I have a sliding glass patio door that
has a bad problem with water condensing in between
the 2 panes of insulated glass. It has been this way
since I bought the house and I am somewhat tired
of not being able to see clearly thru the window.
I cannot locate any noticable crack in the seal around the
glass so I'm not sure how the water got in there but I would     
like to get rid of it. Is there any way to accomplish
this without removing the glass?? 

Please post or e-mail. Thanks

*******************************************************************************
 David J. Bishop  (Electronic Pubs Support)                  When uncertain,
 Intergraph Corporation                                      and in doubt,
 ingr!b23a!bishop!david - david@bishop.b23a.ingr.com         run in circles,
 (205)730-8318  (digital beeper 720-1443)                    scream and shout
*******************************************************************************
Xref: sparky misc.consumers.house:6192 rec.pets.cats:4750
From: hunter@sdg.dra.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,rec.pets.cats
Subject: Re:    Alarm systems and cats
Date: 10 Apr 92 07:36:21 CDT
Organization: Data Research Associates, St. Louis MO

In article <1992Apr9.185934.17835@u.washington.edu>, lcornell@milton.u.washington.edu (Linda Cornell) writes:
> Hi there,
> 
> We bought our house from a couple who had several Golden Lab mixes and a
> motion detector.
> 
>>There is supposed to be something called a "pet lens" which the security
>>firm didn't have. Does it reflect/disperse the beams to restrict coverage?
>>Can anything be done manually to restrict its coverage, such as covering
>>the lower part of the lens with an opaque or translucent material?

My experience with PIRs (passive infra-red detectors) is that there are 2 basic
ways to handle pets. The easier way is simply to turn the unit upside-down, and
mount it higher thatn the pets will be, but lower than the top of an intruder's
head. All those I have seen have extra plastic reflectors, which will control
the directional pattern. Just pick the one marked for pets and experiment. The
harder way is to use masking tape and cover the lower part of the reflector on
an ad hoc basis.

Hunter Kevil
hunter@sdg.dra.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: action@cbnewse.cb.att.com (timothy.d.acton)
Subject: Re: Wallpapering over paneling?
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 13:41:58 GMT
Keywords: Sanding wallpaper glue..

In article <12153@ns-mx.uiowa.edu>, brbreffle@icaen.uiowa.edu (Barry Ronald Breffle) writes:
> I live in a `74 mobile home, and my girlfriend and I are getting tired
> of all of the dark paneling which covers the walls.  I was wondering
> if it is possible to wall paper right over the top of the paneling, and
> if so what type of preparations need to be carried out before wall
> papering.  Will the grooves in the paneling show through?  If anyone
> has been through this before, please post, or e-mail me.
> Thanks,
> Barry
> brbreffle@icaen.uiowa.edu


Yes, You can paper over panelling. THere is a thick
"under" paper that is applied to the paneling.
THen you simply put the wallpaper over it. My
parents did this in their house. It looks nice.
THe grooves have not shown through after 2 years.

Good Luck,
Tim Acton
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: pjs@euclid.JPL.NASA.GOV (Peter J. Scott)
Subject: $5k break for first-time buyers - what's the story?
Reply-To: pjs@euclid.jpl.nasa.gov
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory, NASA/Caltech
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1992 16:41:45 GMT

I'm about to close (yay!) on my first place and I still don't
know what the story is on this $5k break that Bush announced
in January.  Last I heard they were arguing whether or not he
meant a credit or a deduction.  A friend of mine thought that
Congress had thrown the idea out altogether.

I'd like to know so I can estimate my withholdings...

-- 
This is news.  This is your       |    Peter Scott, NASA/JPL/Caltech
brain on news.  Any questions?    |    (pjs@euclid.jpl.nasa.gov)
From: stanat@hatteras.cs.unc.edu (Don Stanat)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: How to clean range hood?
Keywords: range hood.
Date: 6 Apr 92 15:51:49 GMT
Distribution: misc.consumers.house
Organization: University of North Carolina, Chapel Hill

>In article <1992Mar25.205519.2136@Cadence.COM>, jakec@Cadence.COM (Jake Chuang) writes:
>|> I have tried several way to clean the exhaustion fan and the
>|> mesh-filter in my range hood without success.  Can anyone
>|> suggest a cleaner that will do the job?
>|> 
>|> Thanks a lot.
>

Put the mesh filters in the dishwasher.
From: ostroff@Oswego.EDU (Boyd Ostroff)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Improvement Value Adds?
Keywords: do-it-yourself
Date: 10 Apr 92 15:13:55 GMT
Reply-To: ostroff@oswego.Oswego.EDU (Boyd Ostroff)
Organization: Instructional Computing Center, SUNY at Oswego, Oswego, NY

In article <1992Apr8.211927.10228@cco.caltech.edu> sns@deimos.caltech.edu (Sam Southard Jr.) writes:
>In article <30171@cbmvax.commodore.com>, augi@cbmvax.commodore.com (Joe Augenbraun) writes:
>|> Every book I've read says that you basically cannot get back more than
>|> 100% on a home improvement.

>I've always hears this, too.  However, I wonder if it applies when you do it
>yourself?  Assume that you're able to do just as good a job as a "pro"

I've got nothing against this, and I've done it myself.  I enjoy remodelling
projects (generally :-).  However, if as you say, you are capable of doing
work "as good as a pro", then you are just kidding yourself with these
numbers.  Your "professional" quality labor would be worth the going rate
if you took a job remodelling someone else's house.  I've turned down
carpentry work for other people, but I work on MY house.  That time could
have paid me real $$$ instead. Seems like you have to place
*some* value on your labor.  Nevertheless when keeping track of our
renovations, our accountant says to only count the cost of supplies, not
labor. 

I think the operative term here is "sweat equity".

.............................................................................
....Boyd Ostroff / Technical Director / SUNY Oswego Department of Theatre....
...............Voice: (315) 341-2987 /  Fax: (315) 341-3394..................
..............ostroff@oswego.oswego.edu / ostroff@cboard.UUCP................
From: jfarran@orion.oac.uci.edu (Joseph Farran)
Subject: Rainbow Vacuum Cleaner ( allergies to dust )
Summary: Very effective at removing dust.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,sci.med,misc.consumers
Organization: University of California, Irvine
Date: 8 Apr 92 22:00:24 GMT

 Some weeks ago, I posted an article requesting information regarding the
 Rainbow vacuum cleaner for someone who has allergies to dust.  I received
 over 20 replies.   ALL were positive.  Actually, I was overwhelm at the
 large number of positive remarks.

 Given the wisdom of the Net I have come to trust, we (wife and I :-)
 bought one.   Let me say that we are _very_ pleased with the power,
 efficiency, and quality of the Rainbow - and NO more dust!

 Before deciding to buy the Rainbow, I researched the Rainbow and other
 vacuum cleaners and gather quite a bit of information.   The Rainbow
 came in with the highest points for being an extremely good machine
 at filtering very fine particles (mold pores, allergens, dust, etc).

 The Rainbow is very expensive if you buy it from a Rainbow distributor.
 We had a salesdroid demo the machine - which I recommend you do before
 buying one.  The salesperson wanted $1899.00 + tax for the Rainbow and 
 the carpet beater - yeah right!   We naturally decline to buy it :-)

 We found a mail order place in Texas which are selling the Rainbow
 for $699.00 and the carpet beater for 149.00.   We bought our Rainbow
 through them and everything was just as they had promised.  If you 
 do order, ask for Ralf Baccus.   He is very pleasant and gave us a
 discount.   Our total cost for our new Rainbow with the carpet beater 
 came to $800.  Having check several places, this is about the best
 one can find.

  Place:
           ABC Vacuum Warehouse
           6720 Burnet Road
           Austin, Texas     78757
           
           Phone: 800-727-7129
                

 If you have any questions, I would be most happy to answer it.
 It's a fantastic vacuum - specially for people with allergies.

 
 Joseph A. Farran
 University of California, Irvine.        Bitnet:   jafarran@uci
 Academic Computing Services              Internet: jfarran@orion.oac.uci.edu