HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: lerner@cs.columbia.edu (Michah Lerner)
Subject: Ford compatible removable radio using dashboard flippers.
Organization: Columbia University Department of Computer Science
Distribution: rec.audio.car
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 21:03:18 GMT

The 92/93 Ford Taurus/Sable has a "nifty" dashboard flipper for controlling
the radio output.  Are there after-market radios which are compatible with
this, and also have displays that dim with the dashboard?  Is there any way
to make the stock AM/FM/Cassette radio removable without having it extend
1.5 inches?
--
Michah Lerner
home:    1-718 253 7182
compsci: 1-212 939 7068 (unless in the lab)
pager:   1-917 372 0102 (has voicemail)


Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: joes@sw.stratus.com (Joseph Spriano)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: car radios for sale
Date: 26 Jan 1993 12:02:39 GMT
Organization: Stratus Computer, Inc.
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: billtcat.cac.stratus.com

This probably is no the correct place for this but what the heck

     I have a 100 watt FAS power amp for a car stereo which is going for a
       measly $80 paid $120. It has never been in car, orinal  packing.
      Road Master 20 watt power amp. Condition unknown $10.00
	 Buy the FAS amp and get the Roadmaster for free.

	RS radio digital tuner with cassette (auto reverse, 5 band graphic EQ
	With wriring harness cost new $180 asking for $90

	*RS 60Watt power amp with graphic Eq with all wiring needed. Works fine.
	$65 
-- 
+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+
|                     | Bill and the Boingers Return			      |
|  Stratus Computer   |                                                       |
|    Marlboro,MA      |              :{)		 Ack Gag Burp!!       |
+-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-+
+ Any connection between my reality and yours is purely coincidental          +
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
+ Disclaimer: Stratus might respect my opinions, then again they might not!   +
+ But they are mine and not my employers.				      +
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------------+
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Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: mgolden@cwis.unomaha.edu (Brian Golden)
Subject: Re: Car wont start when amp connected
Organization: University of Nebraska at Omaha
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 08:58:47 GMT

ychoi@unixg.ubc.ca  writes:
> I have this unusual problem.
> 
> I have partially installed an amp in my trunk, and the only wires that are
> connected are the power, and ground.
> 
> BUT when I try to start my car, it wont start.  at first I thought it was
> because my battery was dead, so I got a jump. The car started fine, but
> the next day, it would not start.  So I disconnected the power cable from
> the amp and the car started just fine. 
> 
> Could it be that my battery was not charged enough to start the engine (
> I thought that the amp would not drain power, the remote wire was not
> connected)
Check and re-check all of you connections.  It sounds like the positive wire
is grounding to the frame of the car, and it is draining the battery.  This
is also pretty dangerous 'cuz the short will make heat which could lead to
a fire.  Be sure to disconnect the amp until you get it figured out.

Mike Golden - mgolden@cwis.unomaha.edu
 
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: tom@dynamo.ecn.purdue.edu (Tom McCain)
Subject: Sony portable *car* CD players
Organization: Purdue University, West Lafayette, IN
Date: 27 Jan 93 17:47:39 GMT


 I've seen a couple of different portable cd players that are sort of
made for the car.  That is, they come with a cassette adapter, power
cable of some sort and they supposably resist road bumps better then
the average portable.  Anyone have one of these?  If so, got a opinion
of it?  Thanks!

--tom
--
	    Tom McCain            tom@dynamo.ecn.purdue.edu
 When I was a boy I was told that anybody could become President.  Now
 I'm beginning to believe it.
 		-- Clarence Darrow
From: jpope@pafosu1.hq.af.mil (John C Pope)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Car DATs
Date: 23 Jan 93 05:59:04 GMT
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8]

Hello car audio people.

I was hoping some of you could give me some recomendations on 
DATs for automotive steroes, and perhaps some price ranges.  Who
are the major manufacturers?  I would appreciate all responses.
Please E-mail as bandwidth is non-recycleable.

Oh yes, something else.  I tried a while back to get some
information about UNIDEN BEARCAT scanners (for the car) and
I posted to sci.electronics.  Someone responded saying that there
is a newsgroup alt.radio.scanners but I can't get it.  What
could I do to get some info and recommendations on scanners, prices,
features I should look for, etc?  

Thanks in advance.  
               _/
       _____/ ___/           ___  / ___  ___/
     /       _____/         /    /      /   
    /       __/  __/        ____/      /   
   /       __/__/ __/     /           /   
________/ __/      __/ __/         __/   __/

      ___  /_______/        ___  /   _____/                              
     /    / __/  __/       /    /   /        
     ____/  __/  __/       ____/    ___/     
   /        __/  __/      /        /        
__/         __/  __/   __/      ________/
            _______/

John C. Pope,
Air Force Captain trapped in the Pentagon.
(703) 695-9415
pope@execpo6.hq.af.mil 

Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: worley@a.cs.okstate.edu (WORLEY LAWRENCE JA)
Subject: Re: Annoying whine when tapes play
Organization: Oklahoma State University
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 93 04:44:21 GMT

From article <1julgcINNkl2@uwm.edu>, by ultron@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Andrew H Krieg):
> My car tape player produces an annoying whine whenever tapes play.  If I just
> listen to the radio, it sounds fine.  I replaced the original stereo that
> came with the car, and both systems have had this problem.  The whine is
> directly related to some part of the electrical system of the car.  When I
> accelerate or decelerate, the whine changes pitch.
> 
> Recently, I bought a Car Discman which plays through the tape deck, and the
> whine is now intolerable.  Does anyone have any suggestions as to what is
> wrong so I can get this fixed?  

You are hearing induced engine noise from being emitted from a "hot" wire
that is contaminated with ripple from your alternator charging your battery.
What kind of car do you have (and I'll tell you how to fix it)?

-Jason Worley
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: ajones@dadd.ti.com (Alan Jones)
Subject: Re: Installation Kit Sources
Reply-To: ajones@dadd.ti.com
Organization: Texas Instruments, Inc.
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 16:25:33 GMT

In article 28589@tellab5.tellabs.com, fayne@tellabs.com (Jeffrey Fayne) writes:
>I am looking for sources that carry car stereo installation related
>items, specifically adapters to mount a shaft-style receiver in a
>DIN mounting space, something on the order of what Crutchfield calls
>an 'installation kit'. I'm planning on installing my system in a
>'89 Taurus and would like a mounting adapter that fits the original
>mounting lugs in the dash.
>
>I'd also like to find a good source on speaker box cloth/carpeting
>
>
>Any sources would be appreciated.
>
>
>			Thanks,
>
>				Jeff
>
>BTW: i haven't called Crutchfield yet, do they sell install kits
>     seperately, or are they just distributed on a system purchase only
>     basis?

Crutchfield now has a separate car installation catalog.  I ordered my last
week and have not yet received it, so I can't tell you anything about it.
But I would assume that it has just what you need.

---
sincerely,
Alan Jones  /  Texas Instruments, Dallas, TX  /  email=ajones@asic.sc.ti.com
From: plg3723@zeus.tamu.edu (Hello there)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: New amp from Infinity
Date: 27 Jan 1993 23:27 CST
Organization: Texas A&M University, Academic Computing Services
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: zeus.tamu.edu
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    

Brian Gentry writes... 
> 
>Did anyone out there happen to go by the U.S.AMPS booth at IASCA
>nationals?  We were showing our prototype class D amplifier.  Our 
>current prototype puts out about 185 watts into a 2 ohm load.  This 
>is a mono amplifier with a built in electronic crossover with high-pass 
>outputs.  Notice that unlike the Infinity our amplifier IS 2 ohm stable.  
>The measured efficiency on ours is ~93%.  We "burned in" an earlier 
>prototype for about a week (at near clipping) and the amp heated up to 
>about skin temperature.  We haven't scheduled a release date yet, but
>watch for it fairly soon.  I think suggested retail on our amp is
>going to be under $600 but I can't remember, so don't quote me. :)


I suspect that as the years go by and we see more and more electric powered
vehicles on the road, that super-efficient amp designs will be in high
demand.  It seems like the biggest limitation to electric vehicles today is
the small amount of time the batteries will hold a charge.  Today, one
could certianly not have a high powered audio system AND drive with an electric
motor.

thoughts?  comments?
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: brian@pawnee.eel.ufl.edu (Brian Gentry)
Subject: Re: Box Builder Question?
Organization: UF EE Department (student)
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 93 22:56:23 GMT

In article <8239@dove.nist.gov>, keys@starchild.ncsl.nist.gov (Lawrence B. Keys) writes:
|> 
|> I have a question for the sub box building experts.  Will the 
|> response of a ported box remain unchanged if the dimensions are
|> changed?
[...]
|> I need to build a box which better conforms to my trunk, thereby 
|> using the space that i have better.  If i build another box using
|> the same driver,same port size,same building materials and give the
|> box the same volume, but change the dimensions...
|> 
|> 	Will it sound the same???
|> 
|> I'd appreciate any help, thanks,


You didn't mention the current dimensions of the box or the new ones
so I'll give you some general information.  Several things about the 
shape (dimensions) of a box affect it's sound.  If the box "restricts"
the flow of air to the driver, then it will not sound good.  It's always
good to have at least a few inches from any surface of the driver to the 
nearest wall.  Similarly, if you restrict the flow of air to the port, 
you'll get poor sound quality.  Don't put the end of the port closer than
1 port diameter (or equivilent diameter for a non-circular port) from
the wall that it "fires" into.

The dimensions of the box affect the standing waves that are generated 
inside the box.  If these standing waves occur at frequencies that are
highly audible, then the box will sound bad.  The most important standing
wave is the one that occurs between the back of the woofer and the wall
behind it.  This wave can be heard the easiest because it "comes through"
the cone.  That is, it modulates the movement of the cone.  I have read
in several places that it is best to make the dimensions of the box with
the "golden section".  The golden section is approximately 1.61.  So make
the dimensions:

depth = X
width = 1.61(X)
height = 1.61(width) = 1.61(1.61)(X)

These dimensions are supposed to make the standing waves in the enclosure
1/3 octave apart which is supposed to produce the least objectionable 
resonances.

Bracing your enclosure is also quite important.  Long (or wide) panels 
resonate.  If you don't brace these, they will make your enclosure sound
bad.  For example, in our home theater/stereo system, we have a Kicker
C-18 in a ~5 ft^3 sealed enclosure powered with ~900 watts.  The mid/high
amplifier sits on top of the enclosure.  This amp weighs ~45 lbs.  There is
NO internal bracing (hey, I didn't build the box, what can I say?).  When
playing music or movies with LOTS of bass at high volume levels, the 
amplifier on top of the enclosure rattles and moves around.  When playing
really low bass (with my signal generator) the rattling of the amplifier
and enclosure are so loud that they make the bass sound very bad.  At
25 Hz, it sounds like the enclosure is going to come apart.  I REALLY need
to rebuild this enclosure.

			Brian L. Gentry
		    (brian@sioux.eel.ufl.edu)
From: tjf@adl.dmt.csiro.au (Thomas Fung)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Thanks - Re: Words of warning ...
Date: 27 Jan 93 02:34:18 GMT
Organization: CSIRO Division of Manufacturing Technology, Adelaide, Australia

Thanks for the responses to my alternator questions.

I should have added that we were considering the more standard
higher current alternators without getting into mega buck$$$.

Still, where there's a will, ....
From: rmf@bpdsun1.uucp (Rob Finley)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: BASS CD FROM HELL: P.E.B. Bass Computer
Date: 24 Jan 93 06:34:07 GMT
Organization: Harris Allied Broadcast Div., Quincy, IL


it has turned into one of my favorite CD's.  Even the CD-rom player
on this Sun sparcstation manages to handle it.

Have they finished any other albums?  I want more!   B-)
From: plg3723@zeus.tamu.edu (Hello there)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: New amp from Infinity
Date: 22 Jan 1993 10:45 CST
Organization: Texas A&M University, Academic Computing Services
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: zeus.tamu.edu
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    

Robert Gonyer writes...

>What do you guys think of the new class D amp from Infinity?
>The recent test of It I saw claimied it was small, very effecient
>(80%), and put out 75 watts by 2. (4 ohm).  Those were mfg specs..
>When actually tested, it put out closer to 100 wpc at clipping.
>It didint heat up, and it had no problem with great tight bass and subs.
>Check it out, the latest Car Stereo Review.  The author raves about
>it.  I hope the actually mass produce it.

..And it would be nice if it didn't cost a million dollars!


Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: robb@ais.org (Robert Gonyer)
Subject: Re: New amp from Infinity
Organization: UMCC
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 18:49:14 GMT

In article <22JAN199310450020@zeus.tamu.edu> plg3723@zeus.tamu.edu (Hello there) writes:
>Robert Gonyer writes...
>
>>What do you guys think of the new class D amp from Infinity?
>>The recent test of It I saw claimied it was small, very effecient
>>(80%), and put out 75 watts by 2. (4 ohm).  Those were mfg specs..
>>When actually tested, it put out closer to 100 wpc at clipping.
>>It didint heat up, and it had no problem with great tight bass and subs.
>>Check it out, the latest Car Stereo Review.  The author raves about
>>it.  I hope the actually mass produce it.
>
>..And it would be nice if it didn't cost a million dollars!
>
>

Well, the suggested price was $599, but this amp was a prototype.
Just like when CD first came out, Im sure the price will go down.

-- 
/~~~~~~///~|~~~~~~~~~* 5.0 Ford Mustang II *~~~~~~~|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~\
\  \\\///  |  Stillwater Design-Pioneer-Infinity   |                         /
/   \XX/   |   Aiwa-Cerwin Vega!-Sherwood-Technics | robb@141.211.206.16    /
\__Amiga!__|_______________________________________|_______________________/
From: aleung@uwpg02.uwinnipeg.ca
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: RE: Pro defeats Car Alarm - Here's how
Date: 28 Jan 93 02:53:19 GMT
 <1993Jan23.193533@usho21.hou281.chevron.com> <C1HFxE.81@news2.cis.umn.edu>
Organization: University of Winnipeg

I think no body will use the flashing light line directly to the light. Right ?
I am not a professional installer. But I do all the installation myself. 
Audio, Alarm...etc. I use relay to my flash light. And I see the Command Start
manual. It also notice use the relay to flash the light.

Alan.
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: mas54@cas.org ()
Subject: My install--does anyone care?
Summary: can I brag up my system here?
Organization: Chemical Abstracts Service, Columbus, Ohio
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 18:59:56 GMT

I'm new to this group, so I'm not sure what your protocols are like.  I've
been working on my system for nearly 2 years.  It'll never be "done," but I
think it'll be ready for competition this summer.  I love to swap system ideas
and brag up my car, but don't get too many chances to do it.  A million people
in this cowtown, and still only one IASCA and one USAC competition a year.

Anyway, can I write about my system here and swap ideas with others?  I have
a small convertible (and no, it's not a Miata).  Both "small" and "convertible"
each present difficult component and installation choices, and the magazines
don't often deal with this type of car (Miata, unfortunately, excepted).  I'd
love to hear about others' experiences (here or via email.)  Thanks for
listening, y'all!
				--Mark

   _  c6h6-c6h12o6-gcat-flsycphqrimtnkwvadeg-taa-tga-tag-atg-gtg-acs-cas  _
  / \                                                                    / \
  \_/    MARK A. SCHMIDT  (mas54@cas.org)                                \_/
 _/ \    Chemical Structure Analyst, Biochemical Genetics               _/ \
/ \_/    Chemical Abstracts Service/Columbus, Ohio                     / \_/
\_/       (opinions expressed are my own, not those of CAS or the ACS) \_/
/ |                                                                    / |
\_| c6h6-c6h12o6-gcat-flsycphqrimtnkwvadeg-taa-tga-tag-atg-gtg-acs-cas \_|
From: markbi@pogo.wv.tek.com (Mark Bishop)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Unwanted Autoreverse
Date: 21 Jan 93 17:56:54 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Tektronix, Inc. Wilsonville

In article <1993Jan21.031225.12015@sfu.ca>, kchau@fraser.sfu.ca (Kwok Kwong Albert Chau) writes:
> Hiya,
> 
> I've got an old Clarion cassette receiver (8925RT) with an autoreverse
> tape section.  When playing a tape, on occasion it autoreverses in the
> middle of the tape.  This is not due to bumps/vibrations.  I have also
> noticed this in a friend's portable stereo (boom box variety).
> I'm sure others have experienced this too and was wondering what the
> (probable) cause is.  Dirty drive belts?  Motor lubrication? etc.
> 
> Email or posts to this group would be appreciated.
> 
> THanx,
> Albert Chau
> kchau@sfu.ca


Bad cassette tape... When the tape is too hard to play in one direction,
the auto reverse kicks in. The reason: it thinks it is the end of the 
tape so it should flip over. Generally is a tape is hard to wind in
one direction, the other direction is easier....


JMHO,

-MB


,-*~'`^`'~*-,._.,-*~'`^`'~*-,._.,-*~'`^`'~*-,._.,-*~'`^`'~*-,._.,-*~'`^`'~*-, 
                                                .______ 
        Mark Bishop - HW Engineer                 \     \ 
	markbi@pogo.wv.tek.com                     \ 777  \ 
	Tektronix                          ___---_  \       \ 
	       /Computer Graphics      __--     .(   \        \ 
	(503) 685-3201             __-           (    \_________\ 
_________________________________-- Purdue Alumni (______________)____----- 
==============================> WindSurf the Gorge <========================== 
From: kirk@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Kirk Lindstrom)
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 19:32:43 GMT
Subject: Re: Bridging Amps
Organization: Shredding the water of SF Bay, HP-OCD
From: jch@alexander.cs.umn.edu (J.C. Hamlin)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Leader Marketing Co.
Date: 26 Jan 93 22:11:29 GMT
Article-I.D.: news2.C1HEz7.MtG
Organization: University of Minnesota

In article <Greg_Kaisen.8.727467769@QM.CIS.YALE.EDU>, Greg_Kaisen@QM.CIS.YALE.EDU (Greg Kaisen) writes:
|> Has anyone out there dealt with a distributer/wholesaler named Leader 
|> Marketing Company.

Yep.  I did when I first got into car audio.

|> They are from Texas but evidently travel the country holding Audio 
|> equipment sales in large venues.  

Yes they do, and they advertise locally before they get in with sleazy 
obnoxious advertisements...

|> They seem to have good prices

You can find better prices from other mail order houses than you can get even 
if you haggle with the salesmen there.  And, you can find *much* better 
warranty service and customer support from mail order houses and local 
shops than from them.

|> but beyond that I know nothing about their reputation.  Advice welcomed.

If you purchase something from them, don't expect kindness, a long warranty 
(if one at all), and abosolutely nobody who knows anything about serious
car audio.

Sorry for the bad rap, but I've had many conversations with them -- and many 
times I've handled their customer support and warranty service when 
people buy stuff from them and then get stuck with a bad unit.  I usually 
gain customers this way because when a new customer comes to me and says,
"Look at what I got from the car audio show!  How does it work?", or 
"I bought something at the car audio show and it doesn't work.  Now what 
do I do?", so I volunteer customer support for the item(s) and am the one 
who winds up arguing with the company to get the unit repaired / replaced if 
it's defective.

I can say one good thing, if you don't mind buying factory "recalls" or 
reconditioned units, you can get a great price on a practically new item.
Just remember that it's been back to the factory at least once already.

J.C. Hamlin
Automotive Sound & Security by Hamlin
jch@cs.umn.edu
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: geof@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (geoffrey.a.myers)
Subject: tweeter noise
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 15:43:15 GMT
Keywords: amps, tweeter noise, engine noise

I have recently installed a couple of Jensen amps in my truck to
drive front/rear speakers.  The problem is that the rear speakers
are an old pair of Jensen triaxial speakers and I get a lot of
engine noise from them.  I called the Jensen folks and they told
me that I needed a filter on my amp power, that this was common
and that the engine noise is coming from the tweeters.  The
question is, are they right?  I don't want to spend the money
and find out I still have the noise.  I can over drive it with a
high enough volume.  It does not vary with the volume control.
It accurately reflects the sound of the engine.  Any assistance
will be greatly appreciated.  Please respond via email.

-- 
Until later, Geoffrey Myers	404.750.5247	cbnewsm!geof

gamyers@attmail.att.com	...!att!attmail!gamyers
geof@green.att.com	...!att!green!geof
From: jch@alexander.cs.umn.edu (J.C. Hamlin)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Bridging Amps
Date: 26 Jan 93 23:14:28 GMT
Article-I.D.: news2.C1HHwz.112
Organization: University of Minnesota

cr415@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Adam S. Wang) writes:
> 
> 
>  
> I just bought a Rockford Fosgate Series 1 260sd amplifier.
> It is rated at 30 watts X 2 into 4 ohms per channel, or it
> is bridgeable to 120 watts into 2 ohms (stable).  The
> salesman told me that I can hook it up to two in-dash 4-ohm
> speakers and then bridge the output to my new Rockford
> Fosgate 4 ohm subwoofer tube in the back to get something
> like 120 watts into a 2 ohm load.  This sounded strage to
> me.  Can anyone explain exactly how much power I'm getting
> into which speakers, and what kind of impedance I'm getting?

The last response to this was a little less than accurate, so I'll 
expand a little.

The amplifier is capable of 30 watts at 2 ohms into each of 2 channels 
(30w x 2ch @ 4ohms).  It is 2 ohm stable, and therefore you can expect 
something like 60 watts at 2 ohms into each of the 2 channels 
(60w x 2ch @ 2ohms).  When bridged into an 8 ohm load, each channel would see 
a 4 ohm load, and the power output would be (60w x 1ch @ 8ohms).  However, 
when bridging into a 4 ohm load, each channel would see *2 ohms* so you 
would get (120w x 1ch @ 4 ohms), thus the second rating you stated.  

If the amplifier is only 2 ohm stable, running it in this mixed mono 
configuration (4 ohm stereo pair & a 4 ohm bridged load) will give 
put a 1.33 ohm load on each channel, give the stereo pair 30w each, and 
the subwoofer 120w -- this may hurt the amp.  What the salesman was 
probably thinking of was a mixed mono configuration with a 4 ohm stereo 
and 8 ohm bridged mono load, making the total impedance 2 ohms per channel.
You get 30w into each stereo speaker again, and 60w to the subwoofer.

J.C. Hamlin
Automotive Sound & Security by Hamlin, Minneapolis, MN
jch@cs.umn.edu