HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: bson@gnu.ai.mit.edu (Jan Brittenson)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Anyone know anything about Minolta X-700?
Date: 10 Oct 92 06:43:29 GMT
Organization: nil

In article <Bvv9y2.A0o@news.cso.uiuc.edu> bsn30247@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Bernard) writes:

 > I am currently shopping for an SLR and am very interested in Minolta
 > X700. Does any of you have any opinions on this camera?  Is it
 > reliable, are there any serious drawbacks which I should know before I
 > invest in it??

   It's quite reliable, although the frame counter has a tendency to
break.  Only use it with thyristor-coupled flashes (I burned one with
a Sunpak). It's limited to 1/60 X-sync. Otherwise it's a nice camera:
it has pretty much anything you might want to from a manual SLR. It's
not a tank, so don't treat it like one. The MD lenses are a great
value for the money. In my opinion an excellent beginner's system:
it's inexpensive enough for you to get a body and a few lenses (zooms
or fixed) with a tight budget.

It will give you OTF flash metering with a dedicated flash.

   Let's see if I can remember more (haven't had one in a while): the
meter readout is a LED ladder with 1/2-stop resolution, it has
exposure compensation and an auto-exposure lock button, Program,
Shutter priority, Aperture priority, and Manual exposure modes, a
window in the finder for the aperture dial, and a minimum exposure
time of 1/1000 s.  The meter is touch-activated on the shutter release
button (touch, or press down a tad if it can't make electric contact
with your finger), there is a PC socket for flash sync, a shoe for
dedicated flash, a depth-of-field preview lever, and a self-timer with
a blinking LED.  I'm sure I missed something.

   Oh, another problem I've had is that the ones I've had have tended
to tell you that they're out of batteries by getting the mirror stuck
or otherwise malfunctioning, like completely bogus meter readings. It
is also somewhat hard to activate the meter with a cable release
without accidentally tripping the shutter.

--
						-- Jan Brittenson
						   bson@gnu.ai.mit.edu
From: andyc@hplsla.hp.com (Andy Cassino)
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 15:16:34 GMT
Subject: Re: night exposures for traffic
Organization: HP Lake Stevens, WA
Newsgroups: rec.photo

zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au (Paul Repacholi) writes:

| Reciprocity effect in fact cause an increase in contrast. The low lights 
| suffer
| to a greater degree than the high lights. But in 'night scapes' this
| is often
| OK or desired. For 'normal' photos in micro photon conditions it is a pain.

I know this is the conventional wisdom. However, I also know that this 
runs contrary to my results with the various Fujichromes. Once I get
into several-minute exposures, I start seeing some fairly low contrast
results (for Fujichrome).

    %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
    % Andy Cassino                                       %
    % Hewlett-Packard - Lake Stevens Instrument Division %
    %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
Xref: sparky rec.photo:17946 rec.video:12386
From: lakhindr@ESD.3Com.COM (Lakhinder Walia)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: empty film canister
Date: 15 Oct 92 18:19:06 GMT
Distribution: rec

I was reading a book by Freeman Patterson, yesterday, in which he
suggested that plastic (film) cans could be used to hold boiled eggs !!!
I wont be surprised if roosters want empty cans in exchange of being
photographed .. :-)
-lakhinder walia

martin.tai@canrem.com (martin tai) writes:
>   Empty  film canister makes ideal  coin holders for  dollars, quarters
>dimes and cents.  Empty  those  coins  in  pocket of purse and put
>them in these  cannisters and  put them in your pocket, purse or car
>it is very  handy  for  changes, parking meters etc.

>   Use your  cannister to  carry  a  litte water.  When  taking
>close up  flower  shots,  sprinkle  some water on the flowers
>to create  artifical dew drops.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: dp@world.std.com (Jeff DelPapa)
Subject: MIDO Holders, A qualification....
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 01:19:40 GMT

In the past I have strongly reccomended the MIDO 4x5 holder system.  I
would like to qualify that - reccomendation still holds if you have a
darkroom or REALLY LARGE bag to load them in - Last weekend I had to
load using an average sized changing bag, and they really were too
long for it. (I wound up taking the inner section out of the outer
sleeve (which is what the directions say not to do) loading it, then
putting it back into the sleve (a cumbersome activity) - I spot
checked 2 holders, and I couldn't find any scratches on the film, but
I wasn't happy about it. - I have had absolutely no trouble with
darkroom loading of these, but decided a warning was in order.

<dp>
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: gsm@gsm001.mendelson.com (Geoff Mendelson)
Subject: Re: How to use Tech Pan?
Organization: mendelson.com
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 14:42:25 GMT

davidson@ccrs.emr.ca (David Davidson) asks:

>I have shot mabey 10 rolls of tech-pan and I am thoroughly hooked. The developer
>is a bitch. Technidol ......

I have had good results with edwal FG7. But then I have had good
results with almost everything in FG7. FG7 comes in a one quart bottle
(It may come in a smaller bottle, but I've haven't bought that way for
years) You can dilute it in many ways, but I like 1:15 in water. 

You can  develop film from 60-90 degress F. and it comes out well. If
you are careful and dilute a full pint of working solution (as opposed
to 8 or 10 oz.) you can get 3 rolls of film out of it (the working
solution lasts about 24hrs)

The stock solution lasts about 3-5 years in a tightly closed bottle.

I have not tried it but I understand that TMAX RS (NOT TMAX!!!!) developer
will work with it too.

>When I looked in the literature to find how to handle this stuff, all 
>references said it was 32 ASA (something like that), but the batch I have
>in my fridge is all 135.?????

This is kodak's way of getting out of trouble when you use tech pan which is
an iso 125 high contrast special purpose film, as a normal contrast "normal"
film. It was not designed to work this way, but it does.

This just prevents kodak from being sued if it doesn't.

If you adjust the development to get "normal" results the iso speed of the film
is about 25. It depends on how you develop it.

P.s. This stuff works great in Minox's it a shame it's soooo expensive.
     (ca $8.00 a roll)

Geoff.

-- 
Geoffrey S. Mendelson (Computer Software Consulting)
(215) 242 - 8712
geoffrey@mendelson.com    or   uunet!gsm001!geoffrey
From: mprats@ocf.berkeley.edu (Mario Prats)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Need Info on Yashicamat 124G
Date: 9 Oct 1992 16:21:59 GMT
Organization: U.C. Berkeley Open Computing Facility
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: bigbang.berkeley.edu

My apologies if this has already been discussed in the newsgroup, but
I am considering buying a used Yashicamat 124G. Does anybody own one?
How good is it?  I also saw an advertised Yaschicamat C, what is the
difference between these two? 

Thanks.


___________________________

Mario Prats
Exchange Division
Library
University of California, Berkeley
From: chuq@Apple.COM (Chuq Von Rospach)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: minolta xi lenses
Date: 13 Oct 92 04:30:08 GMT
Organization: Apple Computer Inc., Cupertino, CA

yw1@Ra.MsState.Edu (Yin Wang) writes:

>	I bought a minolta 9xi from a mail order shop. When I also placed ordersfor two minolta xi series lenses (xi 28-80 f3.5 & xi 80-200 f4.5), the salesman
>told me the minolta xi lenses have problem in manuel focusing and the lenses
>are slow and the quality of lense optics are not good. So he suggest me to buy
>a set of Tokino lenses (AF 28-70 f2.8 & 70-210 f4.0). He said these two lenses
>are high quality and fast. The only thing I am loose he said is the power zoom
>and widerview features provided by xi camaras.

I have a 7xi with the MInolta 'i' series lenses. My wife has a 7xi with the
same lenses in the 'xi' setup.

The xi lenses don't have problems in manual focusing. You don't focus
directly, however, but activate the motors (so the 'xi' lenses can't manual
focus on 'i' bodies). I find manual focus fairly slow and I don't
particularly like the way they handle on manual, but if you're going to be
working mostly in automatic mode, they're pretty decent lenses. The optics
are fine from what I can see.

>The
>Tokino lenses are 25% more expensive than Minolta xi lenses.

Ah, now we understand. I think the cost of the stuff explains a lot.

If you use manual focus a lot, then you want to avoid 'xi' lenses. If not,
they're fine. I'll let someone else discuss Tokina lenses, but it sure looks
to me like you helped out the salesman's commission a lot more than he
helped your picture quality. Adding 25% to the cost of the lenses for what
is effectively one stop faster glasses is a questionable deal (you could
have gotten equivalent lenses that were effectively 'i' style lenses from
Sigma and saved money, but I notice the salesman didn't mention that)

-- 
Chuq "IMHO" Von Rospach, ESD Support & Training (DAL/AUX) =+= Member, SFWA
  chuq@apple.com | GEnie: MAC.BIGOT | ALink:CHUQ =+= Editor, OtherRealms

    I wanna drive the zamboni! I wanna drive the zamboni, yes I do.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jay@b15.ingr.com (Jay Reeves)
Subject: COMPLETE CAMERA OUTFIT FOR SALE
Summary: Sell as a whole only 
Organization: Intergraph
Distribution: ingr.forsale,misc.forsale,rec.photo
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 18:15:32 GMT


		CANON A1 CAMERA & ACCESSORIES FOR SALE
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Canon A1 body - aperture/shutter priority or automatic
Canon A2 power winder
Canon 1.4/50mm lense
Vivitar 2.8/28mm wide angle lense
Vivitar 3.8/75-205mm macro focusing zoom lense
Vivitar 2x matched multiplier for Vivitar 75-205mm zoom
Sunpack Auto 433D swivel head flash unit
Filters and lense accessories:
	  Hoya x1,x2 & x4 Close up attachments for 50mm lense
          Toyo Optics Sky for 50mm lense
	  Nikon UV Haze for 50mm lense
	  Toyo Optics Polarizer for 50mm lense
	  Hoya 80B blue for 50mm lense
	  Kenko Polarizer for 28mm lense
	  Vivitar Polarizer for 75-205mm lense
	  Tiffen Sky for 75-205mm lense
	  Vivitar UV Haze for 75-205mm lense
	filter adapter rings f/stepping down filters to fit 50mm & 28mm lense
	Cokin filter system with following filters:
		Coef +1 2/3 Pola A
		Coef x1,2 Warm (81A)
		Coef x1,8 Orange (85B)
		Coef +1 Blue (80C)
		Coef x1,1 Blue (82A)
		16 point star filter
		4 point star filter
		Double Exposure plate
		Gelatine Holder
		Adapter rings to fit Cokin system to all 3 lense
Sun Hood for 50mm lense
Sun Hood for 75-205mm lense
Carrying case for zoom lense
Carrying case for standard lense
Carrying case for camer
Strap & Camera bag that all of the above fits into.

All of the above was purchased in 5/85 and has been used a good deal, however
everything is still in excellent working order.  Camera body is showing the
bare metal in normal wear spots.  All filters and lense have no scratches.

Asking $450, firm, for everything, post paid.

Please reply via email address or leave a message at the following phone number:

						-Jay Reeves
						(205) 536-4943
						jay@ffs.b15.ingr.com
From: Jimmy.Tung@dartmouth.edu (Jimmy Tung)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Need Info on Light Meters
Date: 14 Oct 92 22:13:27 GMT
Article-I.D.: dartvax.1992Oct14.221327.11266
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH
X-Posted-From: InterNews1.0a5@newshost.dartmouth.edu

In article <1betuuINN5s7@zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu>,
yyh@osustat.mps.ohio-state.edu (Yu-Yun Ho) writes:
> I am planning on buying a light meter, since each and every
> photography book I read mentioned the impotance of a light meter.
> 
> My camera has a built-in meter, but under the metered manual mode 
> the range of the shutter speed is from 1/2000 to 1 sec, for exposures
> over 1 second, I am on my own.

While a spot meter is a prereq for the serious amateur and
professional, you should be aware that just because your shutter speed
range ends at 1 sec, this doesn't mean you are SOL.  Also, note that
potentially significant differences exist between a spot meter and a
"simple" handheld light meter.  

Just for in case you were only concerned about low-light situations: 
If you can see, you can probably get a photo in a reasonable length of
time.  The first thing is to try to get a reading on a white object
(hankerchief) and then add 2 stops to the given reading.  The next way
for exposures longer than 1 sec., is to reset the film speed to a
higher ISO.  So, if your meter at 100 ISO is off-scale, try taking a
reading at 1600 ISO.  The resultant shutter speed should be multiplied
by 16.  So, if at 1600 ISO, the camera tells you correct exposure at
f4.0/0.5 sec, you should calculate f4.0/8 sec.  Since reciprocity
effects crop up at exposures longer than 1 sec, additional exposure is
needed to correct for the decrease in sensitivity (in this case 2
stops).  You can figure out the rest, but in any case, plan on paying
your dues in fiIm.  I don't know if a handheld meter will correct for
this effect since the exact increase varies by film type.  The
recent/current thread on night photography gives some more details,
albeit spread out over several messages.
From: donl@glass.esd.sgi.com (donl mathis)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: 8x10, Christopher Burkett, light sources
Date: 15 Oct 92 23:08:39 GMT
Reply-To: donl@glass.esd.sgi.com (donl mathis)
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc., Mountain View, CA, USA


In article <1992Oct14.143408.10507@craycos.com>, sog@craycos.com (Steve
Gombosi) writes:

|> I suppose you could just shoot directly on Cibachrome...it might kind of
|> interesting. How long would you have to expose Ciba in bright sunshine
|> at f/64? Talk about "limited edition" prints! ;-)

If memory serves, which is often not the case, Cibachrome is roughly
equivalent to a film speed of ISO 1 or so; at least that's the ballpark
as I recall.  If so, then at the basic sunny-16 estimate, the exposure
would be in the neighborhood of 16 seconds at f/64.

However, another problem is color balance.  You only get one shot, and
Cibachrome is most definitely not balanced for daylight.  The
necessarily filtration would change from box to box.  Color would
change with exposure time as well, because Cibachrome is notoriously
bad in the reciprocity failure department, with the three layers
responding differently.  So we need a layer of color filters in front
of the image, which may tend to further increase the average exposure
time.

And it would be backward.  Whoever said that the image is rotated 180
degrees is correct, i.e. reflected on both axes, but this only applies
when you're looking at the image in the same (optical) direction that
you are looking at the subject.  If you come around the front of the
image, it will be reversed.

It's something like the difference between looking at a reflection in a
mirror from in front and behind the mirror.  I've never been able to
see the reflection from behind a mirror, no matter how I try, but I
suppose if you think about one-way glass, behaving as a mirror from one
side and a piece of glass from the other, you'll be on the right
track.

Now, having said all that, people have indeed made Cibachromes direct
in the camera.  There are examples in the HP Books Cibachrome book,
whose name I can't recall, but is something like "The Complete Guide to
Cibachrome", perhaps by somebody named Shull or Schull and somebody
else.  (Ah, memories.  Or lack thereof.)  Furthermore, I think this was
done with a pinhole camera.  I found the results unusual, but for me,
less than pleasing.

- donl mathis at Silicon Graphics Computer Systems, Mountain View, CA
donl@sgi.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: fsgaw1@acad3.alaska.edu
Subject: Pushing Film-Info seeking
Organization: University of Alaska Fairbanks
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 22:39:17 GMT

	Hmmm... I have a question on pushing film. I know if done in the right
situations, can make better astrophotos. Could someone give me so info on
what pushing film means, and what effect it might have on the overall 
picture!!
                               Thanks,
                                   Gary
                               Fsgaw1@acad3a.alaska.edu
From: lakhindr@ESD.3Com.COM (Lakhinder Walia)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: A Summer's Day..
Date: 9 Oct 92 16:24:11 GMT

andyc@hplsla.hp.com (Andy Cassino) writes:

>lakhindr@ESD.3Com.COM (Lakhinder Walia) writes:
>>   Going thru this book " A summer's Day" by Meyerowitz.., 
>> I was intrigued by the authors' photograph on the jacket ( at the back..).
>> 
>> It shows JM holding some kind of shield/polariser/filter in front of
>> his camera. Looks like it covers more than 50% of camera top view..
>> 
>> Could somebody explain what is he doing with that dark sheet..;
>> 

>If I recall the photograph correctly, it was the dark slide from his 8x10 
>camera, and he was using it as a lens shade.

>    %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
>    % Andy Cassino                                       %
>    % Hewlett-Packard - Lake Stevens Instrument Division %
>    %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

hi,
the lens is blocked so much that it somehow does not look like a shade
to me. and it is a wide lens (10 inch lens on 8x10 inch format)

Looks like JM got conscious of his being photographed, and his hand 
slipped from original position.
-lakhinder walia
From: antonsen@hpcndaw.CND.HP.COM (Tim Antonsen)
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 19:04:43 GMT
Subject: Re: How to use Tech Pan?
Organization: HP Network and System Management Division
Newsgroups: rec.photo



Yes, you have to use Technidol (Experts: I know this is technically wrong
but it's close enuf). Almost any other developer will make you really
understand what "high contrast" means. Developing instructions are included
with the developer. 

For your purposes, this is mighty slow material. Expose at ISO 16 or 25.

And expect to have difficulty finding grain in a 16x20 enlargement. :-)

--Tim
From: SteveWall@aol.com (Steve Wall)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Good photo shop(s) in Boston area?
Date: 8 Oct 92 19:28:23 GMT
Followup-To: rec.photo
Organization: Not if I can help it.

In article <1992Oct8.074344.24494@news.tu-graz.ac.at>,
mayer@piis05.joanneum.ac.at (Mayer Harald) wrote:
> 
> I am going to visit Boston next week and would also be very interested in some
> good photo shop adresses. I am interested specially in Canon EOS equipment
> (flashlight, lenses, ...).

Try Hunt Drug in Melrose, MA.  It's called Hunt Drug because it started as
a pharmacy that sold camera equipment, and grew into a camera store that 
sells (prescription) drugs.  It's on Main St. in Melrose, MA, which is a 
northern suburb of Boston.  Assuming you might not be renting a car, the 
easiest way to get there is to take the Orange Line subway all the way to
it's
northernmost stop, at Oak Grove.  At this point the 'subway' runs on above
ground train tracks.  Exit the Oak Grove station on the eastern side of the
tracks.  Walk north about .5 km  - .75 km on the road that parallels the
tracks
northward on the eastern side of the tracks.  At this point, this road will
bend sharply right, and Hunt Drug will be the first building on the left
after the bend.

Hunt Drug has a very, very large selection of equipment, including Canon
EOS.

Bring cash, they don't take credit cards.

Steve Wall
From: ka1gt@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (robert.m.atkins)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: canon eos questions
Date: 7 Oct 92 17:20:50 GMT
Article-I.D.: cbnewsm.1992Oct7.172050.8102
Distribution: na
Organization: AT&T

In article <1992Oct6.173442.15868@donner.SanDiego.NCR.COM>, ralandc@tara.SanDiego.NCR.COM (Raland Camara) writes:
>      
>      
>      1. I have seen 3rd party adapters for allowing mounting 
>         of Canon FD lenses onto Canon EOS bodies.  Does Canon 
>         make an adapter such as this?

Yes, but the adapter is advertised as a "macro" adapter. Since it moves the
FD lens further away fron the camera body than it would normally be, you can't
get the lens to focus to infinity any more. 
I've never used one, but I believe that they contain optics which increase
the lenses effective focal length. Given this, I don't understand why they
didn't design the adapter to permit infinity focus. If there are no optics
then the lack of infinity focus may be unavoidable. Anyone have one and care
to comment?

>      2. If so, what is the model number of it and where can 
>         I purchase one?
>      3. If not, do you recommend any particular brand/model?
>      4. Are there any significant effects on exposure or 
>         image quality?

Any adapter containing optics (wich will make it into a type of teleconverter
with a low magnifying power) will effectively lower the speed of the lens
(needing extra exposure), increase it's focal length and lower the image
quality.

>      5. I realize that an adapter is not going to make my 
>         manual focus FD lenses into auto-focus lenses, but 
>         will my FD lenses still retain their auto exposure 
>         capabilities they had with my AE-1 Program ?

No, you will still get aperture priority auto-exposure, but you will have
to set the aperture manually and play around with the camera settings (set
the lens aperture to f1.0 on the camera body).

>      6. Will they have any new capabilites?
>      7. Aside from price, what are the differences between the 
>         cameras in the EOS line?  
>         (i.e. 10s vs. Elan vs. Rebel vs. etc.)
> 	in other canon lines?
> 	(i.e. T60, T90, etc.)
>      
Too much to cover here. Get the Canon literature and study it, then ask
more questions. Canon have an 800 number which I should know. It MIGHT be
800-OK-CANON. If not call directory assistance 800-555-1212.


===============================================================
Bob Atkins  AT&T Bell Labs  email (direct)  att!clockwise!rma
===============================================================