HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: dgolber@aero.org (Dave Golber)
Subject: Re: Exposed wiring and the NEC.
Organization: The Aerospace Corporation
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 15:12:07 GMT

In article <1992Aug17.052741.29051@aero.org> dgolber@aero.org (Dave Golber) writes:
>I originally wired up my shop with romex.  Then one day I was putting 
>some gardening tools away, and I became away that the sharp edge of the
>shovel, as I hung it up, was passing within a foot of the romex ...
>about 8 feet above the floor.  Then I rewired the place in metal flex.
>
>(Think what your inspector says about YOU when YOUR back is turned.)  
>
>Dave Golber
>
>I looked in my copy of the code.  I didn't see the particular stuff
>you're talking about ... but that doesn't mean much - it's thick and not
>easy to read.  get your own copy: National Fire Prevention Association,
>Batterymarch Park, Quincy MA 02269.
>
>Also: it may not be in the National code; it may be in your local code.

My apology to the originator of the question: my reply implies he
wasn't looking in the code; his original says very clearly that he was.
My only excuse is that I was writing the reply under some handicapped
circumstances.

Dave Golber


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: db21@cbnewsc.cb.att.com (david.beyerl)
Subject: Yet Another Panel Saw System
Organization: AT&T
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 09:19:18 GMT
Keywords: panel saw

	I cannot go back far enough to find the original or follow-up
articles on the panel saw so here is some new information.

	Last weekend I received a catalog from Penn State Industries.
In there they show what they claim is a "Portable Panel Saw System."
They state "Our Portable Panel Saw features a special tracking system
that works with any hand held circular saw.  The system includes a
tracking fixture that attaches to your saw plus a special fence
designed to work with the fixture.  The fixture mounts to the fence
so that your saw will track exactly true to the fence when cutting.
The Tracking fixture has five heavy duty sealed ball bearing in its
point contacts with the fence to reduce friction.  Therefore, guiding
your saw becomes efortless, easy and extremely accurate."

	From a picture of the system, the fence is a piece of angle
stock with the vertical leg cut down and milled smooth.  The saw
carriage slips over this and rides on two ball bearings and is guided
on the front face by two and the rear face by one ball bearing.

	This system, PPS, includes tracking fixture and two 63" fence
sections (to make a fence up to 126" to rip panels over 8" long) and
is Introductory offer priced at $99.00 (UPS $6) [Regular price $119.95].
Additional 63" extensions, PPX, for cutting panels to 4' long are
priced at $19.00 (UPS $3).

	For more information or a catalog contact:

	Penn State Industries
	2850 Comly Road
	Philadelphia, PA  19154

	In PA call 1-215-676-7609
	Order Line 1-800-288-7297 ext 98

						Dave Beyerl
						att!ihlpm!db21
From: pb00+@andrew.cmu.edu (Peter B. Behrens)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: An UnGrizzly Tale
Date: 14 Aug 92 15:36:43 GMT
Organization: Masters student, Architecture, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA

Excerpts from netnews.rec.woodworking: 12-Aug-92 An UnGrizzly Tale by
Roger Hoover@watson.ibm. 
> What about used machines?  I found a beautiful 36"
> machine.  The motor must have weighed in at 250lbs.  It
> had a machined cast iron table, all 32"x36" free of rust,
> that probably was another 400lbs.  Add another half ton
> for the rest of the beast.  Beyond transportation and a
> painful move into my basement, only one problem remained.
> It was 92" high--the basement has 82" of clearance.  Try
> as hard as I might, I was unable to convince Kathy that a
> monster bandsaw would be the perfect touch for our living
> room.  A neighbor observed that the arrival of said
> bandsaw would result in the exit of said wife.

Using the space between the floor joists seems like it might be useful
in a pinch (do you have to prepare a formal relocation plan for the
spiders in residence?).  Beware - your tool may appear to fit in the 16"
(or so) wide space but make sure that you have sufficient clearance for
maintenace access. Some bandsaws have a hinged upper wheel cover!

Peter Behrens 
pb00@andrew.cmu.edu
From: plumpe@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Plumpe)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: HELP! Can't find replacement belt for sander
Date: 13 Aug 92 17:58:21 GMT
Reply-To: plumpe@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Plumpe)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.woodworking, bernie_marasco@stortek.com (bernie marasco) writes:
>I inherited a "Power House" hand belt sander Model #72110 from my father.
>It must be atleast 25 years old and I can't seem to find any replacement
>belts for it (4" X 21 3/4").  Does anyone out in net land know of where
>I might find a replacement belt?
>
    The 1991 Sears Tool Catalog lists 4" x 21-3/4" belts:

GRADE   GRIT   STOCK NBR    PRICE
Fine     120   9HT28378    $13.49 per pkg of 5 belts
Medium    80   9HT28379      "
Coarse    50   9HT28380      "

    Plus postage (0.63 lbs/pkg).  Phone no.= 1-800-366-3000.

-DaveP
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: A fire safety reminder
Date: 18 Aug 92 23:21:40 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA

clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis) writes:
: 
: My favourite is:
: 	The wife cleans something with gasoline, and pours the result
: 	into the toilet.  Hubby comes home for a sitdown, lights up a
: 	cigarette, and throws the match "underneath".  *Flash*.
: 
: 	The ambulance arrives and bundles the burned husband into
: 	the stretcher and start carrying him out.  They ask him how
: 	why the burn pattern was so distinct, so he tells them.
: 	They start laughing so hard, that they drop the stretcher
: 	and he breaks his leg.
: 
: Some days you just can't win ;-)

This is one variation, of many, of an urban legend. See alt.folklore.urban
for more details.

Bill
From: ron@pilot.njin.net (Ron Natalie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Reproduction of letters (was: Grizzly etc.)
Date: 17 Aug 92 21:37:34 GMT
Distribution: usa,na
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

> Funny, our University aheld a day long seminar on Patents, Copyrights,
> and Inventions, in which they assured us that anything we send out
> WITHOUT "(C) Copyring Date Whom" is in the public domain and fair
> game.

You man is behind the times.  This used to be true, but no longer.  It
is not necessary to mark things for *MOST* people to assert copyright.
I say *MOST* because the Federal Government will usurp your work
unless you tell them otherwise with a restriced rights notice.

The "(C)" string has never had *any* significance.  It's supposed to
be the word "copyright" or a real c-in-a-circle.  Marking your code
however is cheap insurance to put people on guard, however don't
assume that if something isn't copyright marked that it is public
domain.

-Ron
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: BANDSAW INFO REQUIRED
From: stericker_r@qis.dofasco.ca
Date: 19 Aug 92 14:54:24 GMT
Organization: Dofasco Inc, Hamilton, Ont. Can.
Nntp-Posting-User: stericker_r

I sent the following question out last Friday and have not received any replys.
Either it did not get posted properly (I am a rookie on the net) or the
questions were too obtuse for anyone to bother answering.  I will try again,
would someone please answer, at least to let me know it got out there. 

Thanks, Ray


Fellow Woodworkers:

I am planning on buying a bandsaw in the next month or two.  I will be using it
to build furniture (e.g. tables, desks, chairs).  I forsee using the bandsaw
for resawing lumber, making laminations for curved parts, tenon cheek cuts, and
making curved cuts of a general nature.  I am looking for a quality machine
that will be easy to adjust and maintain.  The current leader is the Delta 14" 
with height extension.

Given these criteria I have several questions to ask:

1.  Is the Delta the right machine for the job?

2.  What other machines would you recomend?

3.  What type of work would require > 14" throat? (I have a tablesaw and RAS)

4.  If I go with the Delta, should I go 1/2 hp. or 3/4 hp.?

5.  Is the enclosed base for the Delta worth the extra money?

In particular I would like to hear from people with experience with the 
machines in question.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Ray Stericker
Primary Automation Systems
Dofaco Inc.
Hamilton Ont. Canada
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel)
Subject: Re: A Grizzly Tale: Outside looking in.
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 21:27:01 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division

What has this Mr. Grizzly stuff gotten us.

We know that the Grizzly bandsaws are more kits the finished products.
We know that one needs to take care because some parts may be sharp.
We know that Grizzly will replace parts if you call customer service.
We know that it is a good idea to talk to customer service when a problem
rears its head.

But when it comes down to the wire these bandsaws are still a lot
of bang for the buck.  So if you are handy at getting machines to
work and have a limited bugget then the Grizzly bandsaws may be
the right choice.

One could buy a used bandsaw but FWW has an article on doing so and
it is not a clear win win.  Finding parts may be interesting.  Tires
and bearings may be required.

If there is a better constructed equivelent unit at about the same 
price (give or take $100) they buy it.  I do not recall that anyone
has pointed out such a unit.

Some people are willing to spend $200 bucks extra so they can walk
into a store instead of picking up the phone.  Either way the part
gets ordered.  I do not think that many local places stock parts.

I may still get the Grizzly.

-- 
Howard Rebel hpcsos.col.hp.com 

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: dgolber@aero.org (Dave Golber)
Subject: Re: Exposed wiring and the NEC.
Organization: The Aerospace Corporation
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 05:27:41 GMT

I originally wired up my shop with romex.  Then one day I was putting 
some gardening tools away, and I became away that the sharp edge of the
shovel, as I hung it up, was passing within a foot of the romex ...
about 8 feet above the floor.  Then I rewired the place in metal flex.

(Think what your inspector says about YOU when YOUR back is turned.)  

Dave Golber

I looked in my copy of the code.  I didn't see the particular stuff
you're talking about ... but that doesn't mean much - it's thick and not
easy to read.  get your own copy: National Fire Prevention Association,
Batterymarch Park, Quincy MA 02269.

Also: it may not be in the National code; it may be in your local code.
.
w
q


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jweiss@paintbrush.cgd.ucar.edu (Jeffrey Weiss)
Subject: Re: A fire safety reminder
Keywords: rags, oily, fire safety
Organization: Climate and Global Dynamics Division/NCAR, Boulder, CO
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 16:45:11 GMT

In article <1992Aug12.145006.25386@schaefer.math.wisc.edu> wilson@math.wisc.edu (Bob Wilson) writes:
>I assume most of us know the danger of oily rags but I was just
>reminded how easy it is to forget: 
>
>please do remember to treat those rags
>properly!

So how do you treat them properly?  Once you put them in water, do you
leave them there forever?   


--
Jeff
jweiss@ncar.ucar.edu
From: games@max.u.washington.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Need advice on a rota-hammer
Date: 19 Aug 92 17:38:15 GMT
Article-I.D.: max.1992Aug19.103815.1

I need to buy a rota-hammer in order to do about 10 separate projects.
(mostly drilling into concrete so that I can set in some drop-in anchors)

I also am thinking about using the thing to do (later) some demolition work.

I do not want to rent it because it costs about $30 every time I would do so,
and over the course of the 10 projects (none of which can really be done at the
same time as some are at rental houses, etc...) I would spend about $300.

I know that the bosch makes a variable speed, D-type handle for about $200,
and I know that milwaulkee makes one in the same price range, but it is not
as good (or so I have heard).  When I went to the rental store to check on
prices they have the Bosch.

But I used to use a powder activated gun made by Hilti quite extensively, now
I don't want to buy a powder activated gun, but Hilti is quite a good name
in the fastner type business.  I know that they make a rota-hammer.  I just
have never seen or used one.  (I have actually used the bosch several years
ago.)

In terms of ratings, they tend to have 2;  The maximum hole size you can drill,
and the number of blows per minute.

Does Porter cable make a rota-hammer?  Does anyone else that is worth
considering?  Does anyone have experience with these beasts?

I don't want to buy one of the real big ones (they cost on the order of $500),
but if I am going to buy one, I want one that can do a good job.

	Any suggestions?

		John Stevens-Schlick
		games@max.u.washington.edu
From: ZGDSHSE@SJUMUSIC.BITNET (ZGDSHSE)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Water based top coats, paste fillers.
Date: 19 Aug 92 14:03:13 GMT
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU

Regarding water based poly finishes.

I used the Varathane (and I like their previous products) once and
only once.  Gives a clean finish without discoloring the wood.
Goes on easily and dries very fast.

Rasises the grain something awful|  Be sure to raise the grain and
sand it off.  Under no circumstances use steel wool on the piece.
The steel particles can't be completely removed and each one turns
a purple color.  YUK|

These are the reasons I have only used it once.  The nearly full
can is sitting in my basement.  If you come to Staten Island you
can have it|

Gene Sampson
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: An UnGrizzly Tale
Date: 12 Aug 92 20:52:14 GMT
Organization: LLNL

In article <1992Aug12.144825.12034@watson.ibm.com>, rhoover@watson.ibm.com (Roger Hoover) writes:
> 
> An UnGrizzly Tale
> 
Roger, if I was any inspiration to your witty effort, I'm honored.  The pie
recipe is being delivered tonite to the Wife, heavy duty, sympathetic, who is
also a good cook.

Gary

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: daniel@redwood.ppc.ubc.ca (Daniel Ouellet)
Subject: Re: Lignum Vitae Was: router fence material
Organization: University of B.C. Pulp & Paper Centre
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 17:22:09 GMT

In article <1992Aug11.163317.8173@schaefer.math.wisc.edu>, wilson@schaefer.math.wisc.edu (Bob Wilson) writes:
|> >
|> >By the way, I thought Lignum Vitae meant "long lived."
|> >       
|> That "Lignum" refers to wood shows in the LIGNOmeters such as the
|> mini-LIGNO that we use...
|> Bob Wilson
|> wilson@math.wisc.edu

One of the major components in wood is lignin. It is a cross-linked polymer that is mostly found in
between wood fibres and acts as a glue to bond them together. Lignin, lignum ...

-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Daniel Ouellet, Research Associate
Pulp and Paper Centre, University of British Columbia
2385 East Mall, Vancouver, BC, Canada V6T 1Z4
Tel:(604)822-8240   Fax:(604)822-8563   Email: daniel@ppc.ubc.ca
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: rmartin@crchh109.bnr.ca (Richard Martin)
Subject: Sawblade Stabilizers
Reply-To: rmartin@crchh109.bnr.ca (Richard Martin)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Richardson, Tx
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 21:44:04 GMT


I too am interested in finding out if sawblade stabilizers can be installed
on and older Craftsman tablesaw.  How do you remove the inner piece that seems
to be presses on the the arbor.
From: apoyner@as.arizona.edu (Tony Poyner)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: HELP! Can't find replacement belt for s
Date: 13 Aug 92 19:28:19 GMT
Reply-To: apoyner@as.arizona.edu
Organization: MMT Observatory, Univ.of Arizona

In article 23597@oasys.dt.navy.mil, plumpe@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Plumpe) writes:
>In rec.woodworking, bernie_marasco@stortek.com (bernie marasco) writes:
>>I inherited a "Power House" hand belt sander Model #72110 from my father.
>>It must be atleast 25 years old and I can't seem to find any replacement
>>belts for it (4" X 21 3/4").  Does anyone out in net land know of where
>>I might find a replacement belt?
>>
>    The 1991 Sears Tool Catalog lists 4" x 21-3/4" belts:

So does The Sanding Catalog  1-800-228-0000

"economy" belts at about $19.50 for 20, or others (non-economy?) for about 
$3.44 each.

Shipping is $3.50 however much you order.  I haven't tried their belts, but
their Bargain Box of sandpaper is great!


---
Tony Poyner                               apoyner@as.arizona.edu
Multiple Mirror Telescope Observatory     Tel   (602) 621-5185
Univ. of Arizona, Tucson, AZ 85721        Fax   (602) 670-5740
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 14 Aug 1992 19:51:04 EDT
From:         FABY000 <FABY@NMUMUS.BITNET>
Subject:      Planing thin strips

I use double sided carpet tape to attach wood to a bed for planing.
Workes well for me.  Roger Barry
From: peterson@ucunix.san.uc.edu (John M. Peterson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Planing thin strips
Date: 14 Aug 92 15:36:08 GMT
Organization: University of Cincinnati


>
>Every so often, I've read about methods for planing thin strips of
>wood (like from 1/4 inch to 1/16" in thickness).  But I've never
>had to do it myself, until now.  I'd like to hear suggestions from
>everyone who's successfully done this as to what's the best method.
>Unless I hear otherwise, I think attaching the strips to a wooden
>sled and running the whole thing through the planer is the way to
>go, but what do you use to attach the strips to the sled?  It's
>got to be flat, strong, and easily disconnected.


Double stick (carpet) tape on a solid substrate ( a scrap of 3/4"
 A A plywood would work well ).


+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
|  peterson@headcheese.daa.uc.edu      	 In real life: John M. Peterson  |
|                                                                        |
|  College of Design Architecture Art & Planning                         |
|  University of Cincinnati           45221-0016           513-556-1207  |
+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jburke@wsuaix.csc.wsu.edu (John Burke)
Subject: Sewing Cabinets - Plans needed.
Originator: jburke@wsuaix.csc.wsu.edu
Organization: Washington State University
Distribution: na
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 92 06:15:30 GMT


Anybody know where I can get plans and hardware for making a sewing cabinet?  One that lets
the machine fold down inside it, has a surrounding for flat sewing, and that lets the arm sit
above also?  Thanks

******************************************************************************
* John Burke   * burke@wsuaix.csc.wsu.edu          *                         *
*              * burke@ocelot.csc.wsu.edu          *                         *
**************** burke@yoda.eecs.wsu.edu**************************************
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: A fire safety reminder
Date: 15 Aug 92 01:24:38 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <WOODWORK%92081412295347@IPFWVM.BITNET> CGRIFFIN@KSUVM.BITNET (Charlie Griffin) writes:
> Don, it brings to mind a long series of stories about exploding toilets, but
>maybe I won't go into detail....

My favourite is:
	The wife cleans something with gasoline, and pours the result
	into the toilet.  Hubby comes home for a sitdown, lights up a
	cigarette, and throws the match "underneath".  *Flash*.

	The ambulance arrives and bundles the burned husband into
	the stretcher and start carrying him out.  They ask him how
	why the burn pattern was so distinct, so he tells them.
	They start laughing so hard, that they drop the stretcher
	and he breaks his leg.

Some days you just can't win ;-)
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jims@bnr.ca (Jim Spallin)
Subject: Re: An UnGrizzly Tale, and too tall stuff
Reply-To: 1596118@x400gate.bnr.ca
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd., Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 92 19:43:21 GMT

In article <1992Aug12.234310.23644@porthos.cc.bellcore.com>, patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie) writes:
|> In article <1992Aug12.134917.1@max.u.washington.edu> games@max.u.washington.edu writes:
|> 
|> >I notice that there is only a 10" discrepancy between the unit, and the 
|> >ceiling.  Will it not fit between the joists? (Typically 12" tall, and 16"
|> >on center?) 
|> 
|> Before anyone knocks holes in ceilings checking on this, I worked in
|> construction trades for nearly 15 years and I've never seen a house with
|> 1x12 joists. I have seen several go up with 1x10s for the ground floor,
   ^                                           ^
|> but 1x8s are much more commonly used. Both my house and my brother's
|> house here in NJ have 1x8 joists for the ground floor, and (in mine)
|> the second floor. Other houses I've worked on were in the Southeast U.S.
|> 
|> Perhaps things are different out west?
|> 

and up north here, we use 2x? for the floor joists.  In my sister's house
we used 2x12's for the floor joists.  One solid floor, no bounce, no squeeks,
and in the end, it didn't cost that much more than 2x10's, but we weren't
out to make a profit and build to minimum standards!!

-- 
Jim Spallin, (613)765-2581
Opinions expressed are my own, although others are free to share them
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Sat, 22 Aug 1992 09:32:56 EDT
From:         ZGDSHSE <ZGDSHSE@SJUMUSIC.BITNET>
Subject:      Emperor Clock Kits - My experiences ?

Jeff -

I bought an Emporer kit about 12 years ago.  It is a walnut
wall clock with mechanical mechanism (as opposed to electronic).

It was precut very exactly.  All parts wereof high quality and
went together like a dream.  No problems and I am still very
happy with the kit.  I believe I paid about $350 back then and I
am most satisfied.  Oh, by the way, it keeps perfect time.

Gene Sampson

No association with any clock kit company.
From: exubak@exu.ericsson.se (Becky Keifer)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Varathane on brick?
Date: 22 Aug 92 21:00:42 GMT
Reply-To: exubak@exu.ericsson.se
Organization: Ericsson Network Systems, Inc.


This not a woodworking question but as I have been seeing a lot of comment  on waterbased vs oilbased
coatings , I thought that maybe someone out there could help me.

Does anyone know if Varathane will work on brick (interior room with spa)?

I have just installed a sunroom and the floor is Pavestone (fancy brick).  I wanted to bring out the colors 
and make the floor look more interior than exterior so I applied two coats of a waterproof sealer (Home Depot brand - Behr)  This did make the colors brighter by the room still looks too rough for an interior room.  I have been looking
at some additional finishs - one of which is Varathane ($51.50/gallon).  It looks as though it will give the finish that I
am looking for (put a sample on one of my bricks.  While  it looks okay, no one at the store could say for certain that 
it would hold up to traffic on Brick.  I'd hate to spend the money and effort  (400sq. feet) if it will not  last.

Any other suggestions are also welcome.  Good product with inexpensive price!

                 Thanks for any help that you can give me.  Maybe you know of a better forum for this question.

                                                    /Becky
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU