HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier)
Subject: Re: Mollies and humane killing
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 92 15:18:00 GMT

shores@drycas.club.cc.cmu.edu wrote:
: Hello all....
: I have several questions.  First, about mollies:  
:      --What is their preferred ph?  I know they like hard, alkaline water,
:        but just how alkaline??

I do not think that they are particular - I'm sure anything between
7.0 and 8.5 is wonderful (and outside that probably isn't the end
of the world).
 
:      --About salt for the mollies:  I am currently using 1 tsp/gallon of
:        aquarium salt.  Is this too much?  Too little?   Should I be using
:        one of the marine salt preparations instead of plain ol' salt?

Again, molly's aren't particular.  In fact, they're happy write up to
marine concentrations (isn't that about 1/2 cup/g salt?).
 
:      --Lastly, what is the best (i.e. most painless--both for the fish and
:        for me, the soft-hearted aquarist) way to destroy mortally ill or
:        deformed fish?    (and what's the best way to get rid of this 
:        stupid kissing gourami that I hate?  would anyone like to have it???)

If the fish is healthy (i.e. if you'd give it to a friend), take
it to the fish store and see if you can get credit for it (that's
in reference to the "stupid gourami").  For sick/deformed fish,
I generally put them into a tupperware container with water from
the tank and pop them into the freezer.  As the water cools, they
slow down, and eventually die.  I've also tried dropping fish
directly into ice water - I think they experienced pain.  The toughest
part about keeping fish is having to put one down.

--
"They thought to use and shame me but I win out by nature, because a true
freak cannot be made.  A true freak must be born." - Geek Love

Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: mar@athena.mit.edu (Mark A. Rosenstein)
Subject: Re: A few beginer questions
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 18:27:30 GMT

The domino and blue/yellow fish you have are almost certainly damsels.  I
have not heard them called dandelions before.

Water changes are pretty easy.  You should mix up the new salt water in
advance.  If you are starting with tap water, be sure that you neutralize
any chlorine by letting it evaporate (if you are sure there are no
chloramines) or with one of the many products on the market.  Add the salt,
approx 1/2 cup per gallon, but use your hydrometer to make sure that the
salinity is correct.  You should let the water sit for at least a couple of
hours to stabilize before you use it.  I keep prepared water in a 30gallon
plastic trash can.

When you remove the old water from the tank, you should use this opportunity
to clean the tank.  If you have an undergravel filter, vaccume the gravel.
Be sure to syphon out any obvious detritus.  If there is a film on the surface,
try bailing water out with a shallow plate to remove this film.  Be sure
that you don't remove more water than you have previously made up to replace
it with.

If the new water is already the right temperature, pH and salinity, then you
can put it in pretty quickly.  If any of these parameters are off, you are best
off adding it very slowly, such as syphoning through a small hose.  This way
you will not shock the inhabitants of your tank.

There are many opinions on how often and how much water to change.  A lot of
that depends on the size, filtration, and inhabitants of your tank.  I've
heard numbers as high as 20% per week and as low as 10% per month.  And I'm
sure there are people who change less than that.  Once you have had the tank
a long time, you will be able to tell at a glance how healthy the tank is
and whether it needs a water change.  For starters, 10% per week is probably
a good amount.
					-Mark
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: mvp@hsv3.lsil.com (Mike Van Pelt)
Subject: Re: Pleco's and food
Keywords: dPLECOS
Organization: LSI Logic/Headland Technology
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 21:16:41 GMT

In article <Oct.3.12.58.33.1992.21059@remus.rutgers.edu> bjkramer@remus.rutgers.edu (Brian Kramer) writes:
>I have a rather large Pleco that I just purchased.  He is about 4-5
...
>The problem is the Pleco eats the algae faster than the algae
>grows...which is good.  I was wondering what I can feed the pleco when

Well, since you used the "P" word four times, the probability is
1-(1/2^4) = .9375 that the poor fish is going to be dead by the
time you get home.  

Assuming the net.curse doesn't hit you, the consensus seems to be
that they like zucchini and string beans.  Supposedly if you blanch
the vegetables in boiling water for a minute or so, they will sink.
Otherwise, you can tie them to a rock or something.
-- 
Mike Van Pelt                     "I'm not a biologist, but I play one in 
LSI Logic/Headland Products        front of Congressional hearings."
sun!indetech!hsv3!mvp                        -- Meryl Streep
mvp@hsv3.lsil.com
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,sci.aquaria,rec.aquaria,misc.forsale,ne.forsale
From: glee@athena.mit.edu (Gilbert Huppert)
Subject: Reef creatures and tank for sale
Followup-To: ne.forsale
Keywords: reef, aquarium, fish
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Distribution: ne
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 21:26:22 GMT

This is supposed to go to the NE only.  Sorry if others get this posting


A friend of mine will be moving in the very near future and has
to get rid of his reef-aquarium setup.  He has a lot of nice corals
and a large amount of live-rock.  He is willing to sell all the
animals separately.  He also want to sell the tank, which is 70 Gallons,
drilled in two places on the bottom with overflow pipes and valves.  
He doesn't really want to sell the rest of the equipment, with the exception
of a 25W Aquinetics UV sterilizer which has never really been used along with
3 lifeguard modules (chemical, heater and mechanical).  Other
equipment may be negotiable.

A brief list of the tank inhabitants follows:

	2 bubble corals
	1 elegant coral (5" in diameter)
	1 hammer coral  (1.5" x 7")
	1 pearl/frogspawn coral (3" in diameter)
	2 small finger leather corals (2"-3" x 3"-4")
	red star polyps
	green star polyps
	1 brain coral (3" in diameter)
	2 atlantic anemones (pretty large)
	1 flower anemone (5" in diameter)
	1 green clown anemone (very large, more than 1' when extended)
	rocks with various mushrooms polyps, and plants
	
	1 royal gramma
	1 red-lip blenny
	1 kole tang
	2 hippo-tangs
	1 tomato clown (lives in large anemone)
	1 small yellow tailed damsel
	1 skunk cleaner shrimp
	1 green brittle starfish

He would be willing to sell everything for less than half the going retail price,
and will give a better deal if you want to buy more than one thing.  No 
reasonable offer will be refused.  The tank should go for something above $100,
and the sterilizer ( with the lifeguards) will go for something less than $100.
If you want to buy a lot of stuff, he can also let you have the stand cheap.


You can send me EMAIL or write to igor@athena.




--
Gilbert Lee Huppert (glee@athena.mit.edu)
Materials Etching Technology Laboratory
From: shores@drycas.club.cc.cmu.edu
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Mollies and humane killing
Date: 4 Oct 92 22:18:12 -0500
Organization: Carnegie Mellon Computer Club

Hello all....
I have several questions.  First, about mollies:  
     --What is their preferred ph?  I know they like hard, alkaline water,
       but just how alkaline??

     --About salt for the mollies:  I am currently using 1 tsp/gallon of
       aquarium salt.  Is this too much?  Too little?   Should I be using
       one of the marine salt preparations instead of plain ol' salt?

     --Lastly, what is the best (i.e. most painless--both for the fish and
       for me, the soft-hearted aquarist) way to destroy mortally ill or
       deformed fish?    (and what's the best way to get rid of this 
       stupid kissing gourami that I hate?  would anyone like to have it???)

Thanks a bunch..if you want to respond via e-mail, please do so to:
agrupeno@sbccvm (bitnet)   or
agrupeno@ccvm.sunysb.edu  (internet)

Amy Grupenhoff on Dave's account  :)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: dbailey@bcarh673.bnr.ca (Douglas Bailey)
Subject: (f) companion fish for jewel cichlids
Reply-To: dbailey@bcarh673.bnr.ca (Douglas Bailey)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 18:09:12 GMT

I recently purchased 4 jewel cichlids.  I placed them in my tank with
a bunch of white clouds.  The jewels weren't mature (largest about
2.5" long) so I figured the mature white clouds would be fine and the
fry would be a good source of live food for the cichlids.

As expected, the white cloud fry started disappearing.  Unfortunately,
I was wrong about the adults.  One night, after I had had the jewels
for about a week, all of the adults disappeared.  No bodies, no fluff
balls on the carpet, nothing left.

The problem: now that the jewels are alone in the tank, they have
gotten quite reclusive.  They will come out of hiding when I feed
them, but at no other time.

I need a dither fish or target fish for the cichlids.  Given the speed
with which the white clouds were dispatched, I don't believe a fast
target fish will survive.  The alternative is a sturdy dither fish.  I
don't really have any good ideas, though.

One alternative which occured to me was to use feeder guppies as
target fish.  They would provide both a source of food and the
necessary activity to bring the cichlids out of hiding.  Of course,
I'd have to replace them regularly...

Any suggestions welcome.  Please post since my company doesn't allow
email access unless it's company business.

Doug Bailey

Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: thompson@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Sea Apple question(s).......
Date: 26 Sep 92 22:54:35 CDT
Organization: University of Kansas Academic Computing Services

Greetings....
     I was thinking of adding a sea apple to my reef tank.  I was just
wondering if they require any special arrangements in the areas of lighting,
filtration, water quality, etc.  Also, are they detrimental to live rock,
anemonies, or beneficial algae?  Thanks in advance! (E-mail is fine)

-John

Oh, what are some ballpark prices for sea apples?  I realize there are many
types.....the one I am considering is mostly red with some green and
yellow/gold bumps.  I don't know the scientific name.  I think its around
$33.00 (plus 25% empl. disc.).

Thanks.
 
--------------------------------------------------------------------
| John S. Thompson              | thompson@ukanvm.cc.ukans.edu     |
| University of Kansas          | thompson@ukanvax.cc.ukans.edu    |
| .../ They call me SkiBum \... | OS/2 2.0, Bush, and Rush in '92! |
--------------------------------------------------------------------
| Look for Recipe Pro(tm), an interactive recipe database...       |
--------------------------------------------------------------------
From: bob@hubcap.clemson.edu (Bob)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: flow rate of Eheim 1050 pump
Date: 3 Oct 92 02:01:28 GMT
Organization: Clemson University

In article <1992Oct2.193652.6276@cs.ucla.edu> frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier) writes:
>Joe Mueller (joemu@mentorg.com) wrote:
>: I plan to replace my Eheim 1050 hobby pump with
>: a canister filter with the same flow rate to add
>: chemical filtration to my wet-dry filter.
>
>T H I S   W I L L   N O T   W O R K ! !
>
>Don't do it.  Cannister filters are specifically designed
>to operate with no head.  That means that they are not
>equipped to lift water, like from a sump to a tank.  They
>use a relatively wimpy powerhead, and depend upon having
>a syphon on the intake line to maintain their flow.
>
>It should be fairly easy to either put the chemical filtration
>in a compartement in your sump or to fashion a reaction chamber
>using PVC and a large plastic jar/jug which could be put between
>your pump and your tank.
>
>--
>"They thought to use and shame me but I win out by nature, because a true
>freak cannot be made.  A true freak must be born." - Geek Love
>
>Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier

Greg,

     Not all cannister filters are designed with a built in pump like
the one you describe. He might be better off setting up his wet/dry with
a chemical section but, what you describe with the pvc and jar is
basically a home made cannister itself.
     Take the ocean clear cannister filter that I have. I use a 25 sq ft
mechanical cannister filter with a chemical cannister filter inline after it. I
also have a protein skimmer in there and use a 700 gph pump to get things
moving. This is all in a 75 gal tank and I have had no problems with the
cannisters whatsoever.  

Bob Staaf
bob@hubcap.clemson.edu
	
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:5146 rec.aquaria:7703 sci.aquaria:1395
From: dougo@wam.umd.edu (Douglas Bruce Olson)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Salt in Freshwater... How much?
Date: 3 Oct 92 00:32:30 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Maryland, College Park



	Hello. I've read just about everywhere that salt in the aquarium
is beneficial, I was wondering how much per gallon? I do have 2 corys,
so I'll have to half or quarter the amount of salt I put in...

	Thanks.
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 14:25:10 EDT
From: <HCM100@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: IMPORTANT: USE OF HEADINGS!!!

I have noticed a sever decline in the use of bracketed headings in the
subject lines of posts here.  If possible, could we all start using them again?

(ie:  (F), (M), (REEF), (DIY), etc...)

The previous message was brought to you by the Anal Retentive fishkeeper.  :-)

*  Hans C. Masing        |  "When you go in for a job interview, I  *
*  HCM100@PSUVM.psu.edu  |   think a good thing to ask is if they   *
*  Penn State MIS Dept.  |   ever press charges." - Jack Handey     *
From: bj368@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Mike E. Romano)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Smog and Air Pumps
Date: 4 Oct 1992 09:06:44 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


  I have just started an aquarium and I live in an area where
there is a great deal of car traffic.

I understand that smog eventually affects the air pump.

But I am also curious: do the smog particulates dissolve from
the bubbles into the aquarium water?
And if so, does the degree of dissolving depend on the
=relative= temperature of the air bubble compared to
the aquarium water?

Any info would be appreciated.
Mike Romano   U Cal  Berkeley

-- 
Capt. Kirk: let's head for that planet, third from the sun, it
            looks promising.... |-)
From: oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: Ram Cichlids...
Date: 6 Oct 92 05:52:50 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)

In article <1992Oct6.012922.26844@mnemosyne.cs.du.edu> mhatz@nyx.cs.du.edu (Mike Hatz) writes:
>I the group's collective advice and got 4 Ram cichlids for my little 10 gallon
>this weekend.  I do have 2 questions though:

4 adult rams in a 10 may be a bit too tight unless you have a lot of plants
in the tank.

>1)  What is the most accurate way to sex them?  I am looking at their little
>"punk" hairdos and the eye bars.

The mature males will have very extended first few rays of the dorsal.  The
mature females will be smaller than males and their bellies turn deep red
when they are in the spawning mood.

>2)  Any tips to get them to breed?

Get at least 1 male and at least one female.  Put them in a tank with a flat
large pebble or a piece of slate and feed them plenty of live foods. They
will spawn.
-- 
Oleg Kiselev at home			...use the header to find the path
From: dougo@wam.umd.edu (Douglas Bruce Olson)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: What's this disease?
Date: 4 Oct 92 03:03:17 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Maryland, College Park


	I have three Irredescent Sharks (Pangasius sutchi) who I've posted
before that I thought that they had ich.

	Here's the situation:

	30 gallon
	biolife 55
	a few swordtails
	dragonfish, albino frog, two albino cories, and two small plecos.
	inch of gravel, a few plants.

	pH is around 7.1
	ammonia is low
	there's an airstone also.

	Problem/Symptoms:
	(just for the sharks)
	white balls? globs? pimples maybe? just on tail and fins. 
	we've lost two sharks already. before they die, they always start
shaking, swim MADLY about the aquarium for a few minutes and then die the
next day.
	We've applied 1 tsp of salt/10 gallons of water & a container
of CopperSafe. 
	After we applied the CopperSafe, it appears that the white blobs?
have started to fall off.
	Previous symptom:
	One of the sharks had a VERY red eye, and still has a red looking
blob on his fin. after the coppersafe was applied, this cured up.

	Another problem. The fish haven't eaten (visibly. I know they're 
getting food, but before the illness, the fish would actually GO AFTER
the food. I don't know how they get the food now, they never pay it any
attention) since the illness, which has gone on for about two weeks.

	what should I do? What is the illness?

	thanks
From: mike.mcaulay@spacebbs.com (Mike Mcaulay) 
Newsgroups: alt.lang.asm
Subject: Calling all EGA/VGA gurus!  Please read!
Date: 28 Sep 92 20:54:00 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: SPACE BBS - Menlo Park, CA - 10 Lines + 4gB - 415-323-4193
Reply-To: mike.mcaulay@spacebbs.com (Mike Mcaulay) 



I don't know if this is appropriate for this group, but I am pretty
desperate, so here goes:

I am in the process of porting a piece of code from VGA Mode 13h (320 X
200, 256 colors) to VGA Mode 12h (640 X 480, 16 colors).  I have art
that has been algorithmically converted to 320 X 200, 16 colors then
touched up by hand.  I am expanding this art by doubling all of the
pixels on the fly when I load the images into memory from disk, and
leaving 40-pixel-tall blank strips at the top and bottom of the screen.
Hence my final image size is 640 X 400.

My problem is that my blit routine is slow.  I am presently using write
mode 0 (byte-at-a-time) and addressing each of the 4 bit planes
separately.  Since I am inexperienced with Mode 12h and EGA-format
graphics in general, I am wondering if I am missing something.  My
understanding is that in mode 12h I do not have access to page flipping.
Is this correct?  If so, does anyone out there have any suggestions for
fast algorithms for moving rectangular regions from main memory to the
screen in this mode?  BTW, as far as the registers go mode 12h behaves
the same as the old EGA mode 10h (640 X 350, 16 colors) for anyone who
has worked with 10h.

I am under rather severe deadline pressure, so prompt advice of any kind
would be greatly appreciated.  However I don't have any choice about
this -- as kludgy as it sounds (is) I *have* to do it, so please spare
the flames.

Please e-mail me as I do not regularly read this group.

Thanks!

M.
From: dspascha@eos.ncsu.edu (DAVID SCOTT PASCHAL)
Newsgroups: alt.lang.asm
Subject: Re: TASM and TLINK .EXE generation
Date: 29 Sep 92 19:26:40 GMT
Reply-To: dspascha@eos.ncsu.edu (DAVID SCOTT PASCHAL)
Organization: North Carolina State University, Project Eos
Originator: dspascha@c00377-346dan.eos.ncsu.edu


In article <1992Sep28.174017.1786@cybernet.cse.fau.edu>, spc@pineal.sci.fau.edu (Sean 'Captain Napalm' Conner) writes:
|>  To resize the memory block for an EXE file under MSDOS, I do the
|>following:
|>
|>		mov	bx,zzlast		;zzlast is a segment - see
|>						;below
|>		mov	ax,es			;es (on entry to an EXE
|>						;program, contains the PSP
|>		sub	bx,ax			;size of program (about) in 
|>						;paragraphs (segments)
|>		inc	bx			;adjust just in case
|>	
|>		.				;rest of code ...
|>		.
|>		.
|>
|>;**********
|>zzlast		segment
|>zzlast		ends
|>;**************
|>
|>  Because of the way MASM and LINK order segments (I think it's
|>alphabetical, but it may be something else ...) zzlast is always the last
|>segment of the program, and the above code seems to work okay.  You may have
|>to play around with the mov bx,zzlast line a bit (I've had problems with
|>MASM puking on the line, so I made a macro to force the issue, so to speak,
|>but that was about a year ago, so ...)

I think [T]LINK by default orders segments in the order that they are
encountered on the command line (i.e. the order that .OBJ and .LIB files)
are processed.  There is a switch somewhere to specify alphabetical order,
though.

|>  And I've never made an EXE as a TSR (while I like dabbling in DOS arcana,
|>writing a TSR as an EXE is a bit arcane for me 8-)

So far I've gotten away with writing ALL my assembler programs (i.e. ALL my
programs!) as .COM files.  But now I'm working on a subroutine library that
adds a lot of common functionality and SIZE to my programs (like a heap manager,
video library, etc.), so one of these days I may have to break down and start
writing .EXE programs!

Tschuess,
David Paschal
Newsgroups: alt.lang.asm
From: kevinlu@yoyo.cc.monash.edu.au (Kevin Lu)
Subject: Re: assemblers
Organization: Monash University General Access Unix
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 1992 06:09:27 GMT

DAVID SCOTT PASCHAL (dspascha@eos.ncsu.edu) wrote:
> 
> The printed documentation is kind of lousy and I don't use PWB (Programmer's
> WasteBasket), but after surviving through 4.0 and 5.1 I think 6.0 was well worth
> the update money.  But I was kind of surprised that the latest version of the
> ultra-MASM-compatible TASM wasn't MASM 6.0-compatible.
> 
> Tschuess,
> David Paschal

Lets face it, the printed docs for MASM 6.0 is abismal!

Also, the PWB is soooooooooo slow!, Just try running it on a 286-16!

I hope MASM 7.0 has a much improved documentation an editor!

  +----------------------------------------+-------------------------------+
  |  Kevin Lu                              | Monash University             |
  |  Email: kevinlu@yoyo.cc.monash.edu.au  | Clayton, Victoria             |
  |                                        | Australia                     |
From: HDKB@MUSICB.MCGILL.CA (HDKB000)
Newsgroups: alt.lang.asm
Subject: Re: Help, Please.....
Date: 6 Oct 92 21:24:11 GMT
Organization: McGill University

>Unfortunately, LENGTH cannot be used for this purpose - it works only
>for symbols defined in way like: foo dw 15 dup (?) - then LENGTH foo = 15,
>SIZE foo = 30, TYPE foo = 2. To calculate number of characters in string
>thestring db 'what we need'
>stringlng = this byte - thestring
>or can define macro:
>string  macro strlabel,strvalue
>  local lbl,lng
>lbl  db strvalue
>lng  = this byte - lbl
>  org lbl
>strlabel db lng dup (?)
>  org lbl
>  db strvalue
>  endm
>and use it:
>  string thestring,<'what we need'>
>.
>.

Thanks Jerzy, its much appreciated.

Luis.
From: HDKO@MUSICB.MCGILL.CA (HDKO)
Newsgroups: alt.lang.asm
Subject: Help, Please.....
Date: 6 Oct 92 01:01:42 GMT
Organization: McGill University

Hi Everyone,

I know I am just a plebe taking a first course in assembler, but
would someone be so kind as to answer the following question:

How do I use the LENGTH reserved word to calculate the length
or number of characters in a given string.  Unfortunately the
beginners book I have doesn't delve into it.

Much appreciated.

an amateur.

Indy.

hdkk@musicb.mcgill.ca
indy@geloser.login.qc.ca

P.S.:  If there is a better way than using LENGTH, that's fine too.