HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Thu, 15 Oct 1992 20:28:08 EST
From:         FABY000 <FABY@NMUMUS.BITNET>
Subject:      Router bit search

The problem may be a safety consideration having a .25 inch shank on a
.75 inch roundover bit.  I do not know if anyone makes them.  Roger
Barry
From: RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Table saw blade guard usage
Date: 13 Oct 92 23:22:03 GMT
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One of the reasons I replaced my last table saw was becase the blade guard
broak and I couldn'd find a decient replacement. I keep seeing my self trip
and fall onto the blade (which can do a lot of dammage even if the saw
isn't running).

When ever practical I use my blade guard and hold down wheels or fether
boards.

I wish the clear plastic blade guard would stay clear; but, if my set up
is good I don't need to see the wood being cut and if it isn't, seeing the
cut isn't going to help me.

The blade guard is closer to the running blade than I ever want to get my
fingers (or any other part) and it's my last defence against disaster.

                        Ron (all opinions my own)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: "craig treleaven" <craig.treleaven@canrem.com>
Subject: engine-oiled cherry
Reply-To: "craig treleaven" <craig.treleaven@canrem.com>
Organization: Canada Remote Systems
Distribution: rec
Date: 12 Oct 92 21:11:24 EST

UN:

   I have inherited a nice cherry drop-leaf table with spool legs.  The
trouble is that it was used in a garage for a few decades and the top is
heavily soaked with engine oil.  Any ideas on how to clean it?  Or
should I just make a new top?

   I'm leaning towards soaking the boards of the top in soapy water to
see if the oil will float out.  Could also use TSP.  Others have
suggested mineral spirits or laquer thinner.  Someone even suggested
trying one of those miracle engine-cleaner sprays!  Any other
suggestions/tips?

Craig Treleaven
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Wed, 7 Oct 1992 15:08:37 -0800
From:         RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM
Subject:      Re: Grizzly Bandsaw

There's a pretty good review of diferent band saw's in Popular WoodWorking
(Sep. 92). They didn't include Grizzly; but, I suspect you'll here enought
about them on the net.

I'd been looking for several months and finaly setteled on a 14" Reliant
(Taiwanese Delta knock off) from Trend lines. It's suppose to be on par with
other faux Delta's and Trend lines is having a nice sale ($299 + shipping
with a $50 coupon good on your next order...). It was deliverd last weekend;
but, I haven't set it up yet. I'll post my review after I get it up and running.

                        Ron Tye (all opinions my own)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: fred@mks.com (Fred Kratky)
Subject: Re: Delta contractor's saw
Organization: Mortice Kern Systems Inc., Waterloo, Ontario, CANADA
Distribution: rec.woodworking
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 16:36:52 GMT

In article <MFB.92Oct6094921@metropolis.super.org> mfb@metropolis.super.org (Michael F. Bridgland) writes:
>
>I recently bought a tablesaw. Since many postings concern relative
>merits of various saw manufacturers, I thought my experience might be
>of interest to others. I also would like some information about blade
>guards and aligning the blade.
>
>manual and organized the parts. All six plastic bags of nuts and bolts
>were missing, so I couldn't even assemble the table.
      ^^^^^^^
>
>simple, with two exceptions. The blade guard adjustment is just plain
>clumsy. And the manual does not explain how to align the blade
>to the table slots.  Supposedly this was done at the factory, but the
>blade is not parallel to the slots. Casual measurement reveals a
 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

I, on the other hand bought one of those "cheap" Taiwanese clones.  I
bought it home, took out all the parts, none of which were missing,
assembled (all parts fitting very well), and measured to find everything
in perfect alignment (mitre slots, blade shaft...).

I thought it was supposed to be the other way around.  Maybe I should
call the guys in Taiwan to complaint about the high quality of the
product!!

Sorry, couldn't resist :-))).
-- 
     ||  // // ,'/~~\'   Fred Kratky		fred@mks.com 
    /||/// //|' `\\\     Mortice Kern Systems Inc.     (519) 884-2251
   / | //_// ||\___/     35 King St. N., Waterloo, Ont., Can. N2J 2W9
0_/                       
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: dbsjwb@Edm.Arco.COM (James Bielak)
Subject: INCA Model 340
Originator: dbsjwb@doofus
Reply-To: bielak@arco.com
Organization: ARCO Exploration and Production Technology
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 18:28:58 GMT


Moving on from the Grizzley bandsaw, does anyone have experience with
the INCA Model 340? I have come across a number of ads from Garrett Wade
which list the INCA along with a bunch of misc. goodies for $695.00.

My questions include:

1) What is the maximum stock thickness?
2) Does the 3/4 direct-drive have enough power to resaw the maximum
   thickness, using, say, a 1/2 inch resaw blade?
3) Does the light weight (70 lbs) pose any problems? which could not
   be addressed by mounting on a heavy base?
4) How difficult is it to obtain the proper size blade on the street?
   Is is some metric (i.e. oddball inch) size that is obtainable only
   through mail-order or specialty-specialty-if-you're-lucky shops?

I've heard that the INCA is "like butter", and consequently I would
like to know if the smallish size of the 340, as well as any metric-
type difficulties present themselves as drawbacks. If there is nothing
but praise, I think I'm willing to be convinced that the 10 1/2 inch 
throat can be acceptable, as opposed to a 16-incher. The 3/4 hp is
also a concern in resawing thick stock.

Replies accepted email, and if enough response, I'll summarize.

(BTW, I called G-W and a spec sheet on the 340 is "in the mail")

jwb

".... they're LIKE BUTTER!" 
-- 
bielak@Arco.COM             ARCO Exploration and Production Technology
james.bielak@Edm.Arco.COM   2300 W. Plano Parkway PRC-D1139A
(214) 754-6184              Plano, TX 75075

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: grun@intellistor.com (Paul Grun)
Subject: Re: Thank you for your support (Was: How d
Organization: Intellistor, Inc.
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 92 20:20:35 GMT

In <1992Oct8.181355.18911@lambda.msfc.nasa.gov> rich@theophilus.msfc.nasa.gov (Rich Krum) writes:

>Most traditionally-built wooden boats that have tightly-curved ribs
^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^                        ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>were made by collecting tree stuops with roots, or tree sections with limbs
>and using those naturally-curved pieces to make the ribs.  I remember a TV show
>about traditional boat-building in Africa (I think) where most of the boatyard
>was stacked with sections of limb and trunk.  The pieces were worked with a
>broadaxa and adze into final shape.  Much of the final lines of the boat were
>a direct result of using the sections available--no real plans, no real layout
>tools other than years of skill and a darn good eye on the part of the shipwright.

>Many old wooden ships in Europe and the Americas were also built this way. 

>--rich

Not sure what you might mean by "most" or "traditionally-built", but:
I suppose you could find examples of boats built this way but I'll bet my
bottom dollar that they are few and very far between.  I don't doubt
that there's a boatyard somewhere in Africa that does (did?) this, but I'm
not sure you can extrapolate from that to "most...".

18th & 19th century boatbuilding in this country and Europe consisted largely
of plank on frame construction where the frames were almost always either
steam-bent or sawn.  To some extent, the choice of shaping method was a 
function of the size of the vessel.  I'd venture a guess that it'd be hard
to steam bend frames (on the order of 2 FEET on a side) out of white
oak for the frames for, say, a frigate.  These would normally be sawn.

The use of naturally existing limbs or stumps was largely restricted to the
fabrication of hanging knees, breasthooks and the like.  Hackmatack is still
used for this purpose.

As for plans; it is true that many boats were built without plans.  Or, rather,
plans sometimes existed but were not used in the yard itself.  Often, a half-
hull model was created from which the lines were lofted.  I'm tempted to 
believe that's mainly because the average shipwright wouldn't be able to read
plans.  Anyway, that's what gave rise to the half-hull models you still
see around today.  

No flames intended.  Please don't take it that way. When I was much younger
I was fascinated by wood boat and ship construction.  However that definitely
doesn't make me an expert.

-Paul
grun@intellistor.com

-- 

goes to show, you don't ever know...
grun@intellistor.com
From: wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Paint shavers
Date: 15 Oct 1992 13:22:56 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


Hello all!
	I will need to repaint my 85 year old house soon, and I think that
there are some spots on it that have 85 years worth of paint on them.  I would
like to take the paint off down to the wood this time around and am starting
to look over options.  One would be having the whole house professionally
sand-blast stripped.

	The other option is trying to do it myself, perhaps one side at a
time.  I've seen ads in Old House Journal for a so-called paint shaver.  It
looks sort of like a random-orbital sander, only it has three cutting blades
on it that "shave" the paint off the wood.  The ad claims to safely remove
1 sq. ft. of paint in 15 seconds.  It also claims to contain the chips in
some kind of a vacuum system.

	Has anyone out there used one of these buggers?  Or are there any
other ideas on large scale paint removal?

Thanks!
Bill
-- 
William Claspy			Case Western Reserve University
Internet- wpc@po.cwru.edu
MaBellnet- (216) 368-3595
From: tlp00@climb.as (Tibor Polgar)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: sawdust & glue
Date: 15 Oct 92 23:19:57 GMT
Reply-To: tlp00@climb.as
Organization: Sun Microsystems


In article 23900@microsoft.com, stevenj@microsoft.com (Steven Johnson) writes:

>Rather than glue, try using sanding sealer.  This dries fast, doesn't 
>affect stainability noticably and seems to fill and color-match the
>surrounding wood quite nicely.  I gave up on yellow glue years ago.


where does one find "sanding sealer" ?
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Notching 2x4's
Date: 13 Oct 92 03:51:06 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <1992Oct11.022223.8552@ulysses.att.com> smb@ulysses.att.com (Steven Bellovin) writes:
>For various reasons, I needed to build some frameworks of 8' 2x4's
>standing on edge, using lap joints.  This meant cutting a fair number
>of deep notches in the wood.

>A thought that occurred to me, but one I didn't try, was to cut lots of
>kerfs with a circular saw, and break out the waste.  I've done that
>before, when working away from home without my usual complement of
>tools, but the results were mixed.  This time, I could have cleaned up
>the bottom with a router or a chisel.

The HomeTime video on "Children's Playsets" shows this technique used
on the vertical 4x4 posts of a playset, for insetting (similarly lapped)
2x6 horizontals.

[Notch individual pieces, some in-place.  Not ganged production.]

The video shows running slashes with a handheld circular saw about
1/4 - 3/8" apart, breaking them out with a claw hammer, and cleaning
up the bottoms with a chisel (probably a 1").  Looked like it was
pretty easy and fast.

I don't imagine that they were furniture grade lap joints, but they certainly
looked servicable enough.  Though, we thought the specific application was
silly and inordinately weakened the uprights.  So we didn't bother on the
playset I just completed - I just face bolted the horizontals.

This is probably about the best way of doing it unless you need really
tight joints.  If I need to do this, I'll probably try this technique.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
From: bill.d.mcdonald.1@nd.edu (Bill D. McDonald)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: * * *  H E L P : Poly vs. lacquer * * *
Date: 16 Oct 92 18:57:16 GMT
Organization: University of Notre Dame



This probably falls under the FAQ category, but I am not a frequent reader 
of this group and simply need some quick expertise.

I am finishing a guitar.  Mahogany body with birds-eye maple neck.  To 
prevent warpage in the neck (which is under stress from the strings), it 
must have some non-oil type finish.  Most quality guitars use lacquer.  My 
dilemma is the lack of spraying equipment, which I could overcome if lacquer 
is truly superior.  In talking to a cabinet builder, he implied that the 
primary advantage of water-based stains and lacquer was their quick 
drying time.  If this is the only major advantage then I might as well just 
spray on some polyurethane.  Or, if lacquer is truly superior, can I get 
away with a can of spray?

I plan on doing the body with tung oil, which I realize won't wear as well, 
but I like to retain the feel of the wood.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.  e-mail response is fine.  Thanks.

Bill McDonald
bill.d.mcdonald@nd.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: RYLV80@waccvm.corp.mot.com (William Mohrman)
Subject: Re: Power Wet Sharpeners
Organization: Motorola
Date: 9 Oct 1992 08:50:44 MST


>I've been looking at the Makita wet power sharpening unit.
>I like the long sliding guide.  It seems stable and well
>built.  Is there anybody that's tried one of these machines
>that cares to comment on it?  I'm interested in using it for
>bevel angle?

I purchased the Makita unit about a year ago after I was
rather disgusted at the results of "industrial" sharpening
houses.  They could not hold the 15" Makita planer blades
level over the entire edge to within a couple of thousands.
(Im picky)

I now love the sharpener.  I just wish it could do all my
blades in the shop. (circular, hand saw, etc)
The Makita sharpener excels at flat blade sharpening.

Well, I have learned a lot about sharpening long blades...
The Makita unit is excellent.  But...  You have to develop
a skill and be very careful of what you are doing.  The trick
I found to a straight blade is a smooth stroke and consistant
downward pressure.  You will need to check the edge with a very
very very straight edge every few strokes.  You will quickly
learn how to "spot sharpen" to even up the blade edge.

The set up is a little tedious, but I am a type A personality
so if I can do it...

So how does it sharpen you say????  Well it puts an edge on
so quickly and easily it is incredible.  The edge made with the
1000 grit wheel is comparable to a razor blade in both sharpness
and finish.  I don't have the 60 or 6000 grit wheels, but I
don't think they are necessary. The 1000 grit wheel cut pretty
quick, I could not imagine how fast you could ruin a blade with
the 60 grit....

Good luck and have fun.

>If anyone has experience with other wet grinding systems, particularly
>for sharpening jointer and planer knives, I'd love to hear about
>that as well.

thanks,
-joel
From: steveo@custard.think.com (stephen anthony)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: That damn plane
Date: 13 Oct 92 16:30:57
Organization: Thinking Machines Corporation, Cambridge MA, USA
	<1992Oct13.193438.23869@cbfsb.cb.att.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: custard.think.com
In-reply-to: millios@cbnewsf.cb.att.com's message of Tue, 13 Oct 1992 19:34:38 GMT

In article <1992Oct13.193438.23869@cbfsb.cb.att.com> millios@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (william.l.millios) writes:


   Well, I finally got around to working on those old hand planes
   that have been sitting in the basement since my grandfather died.
   (Let's see, that was *at least* 18 years ago.)

   I ordered the replacement blades from Hock, ordered the full waterstone
   set from a mail order house, and found some free time.

   First, polish the back of the blade.  Hmm.  After an hour, I notice that
   the deepest machining marks (which happen to be in the center of the
   blade) are not coming out.  I move to a wet-dry sandpaper (I had been
   on the 800 waterstone), and after a couple of minutes, it's better, but
   not by much.  I go for a while ...  finally give up on the very deep
   scratches...  Running out of elbow grease and patience.

I ran into the same problem. I eventually went to a gemstone polishing
store and bought lapping powder; three grits. I don't know exactly what
they  match up with, but the coarse is around 100 grit, I'd guess.  Got rid
of those pits and scratches real fast!

   I still am having a couple of problems:

   1) there isn't much room at the throat for the shavings to come through,
   an occasionally, it gets stopped up by a shaving that's a little thicker.

My guess is that the Hock blade is thicker than the plane was designed for.
I have a similar problem with a Stanley spokeshave. However, there should
be a way to adjust the throat openning; look for a couple of screws in the
frog mechanism, loosen them and move the frog back at tad.


   4) the plane seems to leave a lot of "sidelines" where the blade went...
   How can I avoid these?

Knock the corners off the blades.

   Any other tips greatly appreciated.

Get a copy of Michael Dunbar's bok, restoring and using antique handtools, or some
such is the title. Lots of information on how to do exactly what you've
already made a good start at.


--
Steve Anthony                     |  "Ain't nobody gettin' outta here |
Software Engineer              	  |   with out singin' the blues"     |
(617) 234-4000                    |                                   |
steveo@think.com                  |  - Albert "The Iceman" Collins    |
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 9 Oct 1992 13:45:56 -0800
From:         RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM
Subject:      Band saw riser blocks

I've just gotten a new 14" bandsaw (taiwanese knock off of delta). I'm
wondering if I should get a riser block for it (extension to frame that
increases maximum thickness of cut).

I've got several applications where resewing 10" wide stock would be useful;
but, I don't know what disadvantages a riser block imposes.

Do they work well. Do they impact the accuracy or life of the saw. Will I
install it permanently or switch it in and out. Do I want 2 sets of blades
(long and short) or will one set of long blades be enough?

                            Thanks

                                Ron

                                         (all opinions my own)
From: tennis@ziff.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Wanted: Treadle lathe info
Date: 14 Oct 92 01:38:50 EDT
Organization: Ziff-Davis, Medford MA

I have the base of an antique Singer sewing machine. I wanna
convert it to a treadle lathe. Anybody have any plans? suggestions?
insults?

Thanx,
Tony
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How do I bend an oak 4x4?
Date: 9 Oct 92 00:42:53 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ

In article <dnsurber.718574078@node_26400> dnsurber@lescsse.jsc.nasa.gov (Douglas N. Surber) writes:
>In <1992Oct07.162028.7435@bmerh85.bnr.ca> jims@bnr.ca (Jim Spallin) writes:
>
>>On an aside note, why do you need the curved beams? 

>They will be the tops of the headboard and foot board of a bed frame.
>I'm going for a "brass
>bed" look, but out of wood, so everything needs to be round.

Then maybe the whole thing would do better if you turned the top rails
round first and then bent them?

patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | "Unfair Competition": Selling cheaper than we do.
George Patterson -  | "Note and Initial": Let's spread the responsibility
                    |    for this.
                    |         Kelvin Throop - The Management Dictionary
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta contractor's saw
Date: 8 Oct 92 19:15:06 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA

apoyner@as.arizona.edu (Tony Poyner) writes:
: >: blade is not parallel to the slots. Casual measurement reveals a
: >: difference of several thousandths of an inch (perhaps as much as
: >: .01'', but I haven't measured carefully yet) between the blade-to-slot
: >: distances at the front and back of the blade.
: >
: >I doubt seriously if you need better alignment that with .01". It
: >certainly would be a matter of trial and error to do much better.
: >
: I disagree.  It took me several iterations to get mine aligned to 0.001
: to 0.002", but I certainly was not satisfied with the 0.008 or so that
: it came with.
: 
: I found that loosening the 4 nuts, then snugging them up again until the
: assembly would just move when I tapped it with a mallet was the best way.
: The less you have to tighten the nuts after alignment, the less chance it
: has to move on you.

Your process, by definition, is trial and error. I have seen no table saw
with a dial in or calibrated adjustment.

Remember,  the miter gauge on your saw probably has more play than that
in the groove.  The end runout on the motor arbor is also likely to be
around .01".  Your rip fence probably does not clamp any more accurately
either. It is doubtful if you can measure that close, using a steel rule.
I suppose you could use a dial indicator each time you set the fence, but
I know of no woodworkers who have ever done that.

Bill
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: grun@intellistor.com (Paul Grun)
Subject: Re: Thank you for your support (Was: How do I bend an oak 4x4?)
Organization: Intellistor, Inc.
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 92 14:19:38 GMT

In <275@talgras.UUCP> david@talgras.UUCP (David Hoopes) writes:
>>
>>Appearantly boat builders bend pieces of this size on occasion so that
>>is still a possibility.  

>There is a museum here in Kansas City that contains the remains of a
>cival war era river steam boat that sank near here.  They have part
>of the stern on the ship on display.  The skeleton of the boat is made
>of 8 in. oak timbers that are bent to the shape of the boat.  I would
>really like to see that being done.

There are two ways to construct frames for a wooden boat.  The frames
might be bent, but much more likely they are sawn.  Of course I haven't
seen the boat to which you refer, but I'd bet they're sawn frames...

Just an opinion.
Paul Grun
grun@intellistor.com
-- 

goes to show, you don't ever know...
grun@intellistor.com
From: jjohnson@EDWARDS-SCY.AF.MIL (Jim Johnson 7-9535 (6518 TS/EN))
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Router bit search
Date: 15 Oct 92 20:12:04 GMT
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X-Mailer: ELM [version 2.2 PL0]
              at Oct 13, 92 7:18 pm


      This will not be much help but I was looking for a 5/8 radius
      roundover in 1/4 shank and could not find one.  I ended up buying a
      5/8 with 1/2 shank and using it in the drill press.  This was quite
      entertaining and I don't recommend it.

      James Johnson
      Standard Disclaimer
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