From: bigdog!jon (Jon Wright)
Subject: Re: 'tis the season to work on the bike
Organization: Pages Software Inc.
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 21:12:12 GMT

Amir Reza Khamseh writes
> (Hmmm...I wonder if I should have divulged that info or not.

Nope.

> Anyways, my questions are directed towards a 1986 Honda VFR700F Interceptor I
> purchased at the end of the riding season last year (Uhh, no, I DON'T ride in
> the snow).  It was in good shape, has a 4-1 Kerker system, but stock filter
> and has not been rejetted (so the guy said.)  I was planning on doing some 
> work on it this winter while it gathers dust in the garage.  Namely. I wanted
> to buy a K&N filter and rejet kit (Stage I).  Has anyone had any experience
> (good or bad) with that package on that bike?  My buddy has the same bike
> (well, almost the same, his is the '87 FII) with a Kerker 4-2 and K&N Stage I
> kit that a mechanic installed for him.  Problem is, it takes him 15 minutes
> of hand on throttle coaxing to warm up the bike (i.e. if left alone for the 
> choke to do the job, the bike dies within seconds).  Well, the mechanic told 
> him to bring the bike back this spring so they play with the rejetting pins.

Get a new mechanic. I have the same setup and mine works just fine.  Don't try  
doing this stuff yourself though or you'll spend more money fixin' it (unless  
you REALLY know what you're doing).  It helps if the mechanic has a dyno with a  
gas analyzer.

> My buddy says he feels a distinct advantage in the high rpm range with his
> setup over the stock setup.  I have been told by several motorcycle mechanics 
> to go with a with a carb rejetting just because of the aftermarket pipe, let
> alone if I want to put a K&N high(er) flow filter.  I don't mind as long as
> I don't have to worry about idle rpm settings on a cold engine.  It makes me
> wince to see my buddy keep the bike alive for 10-15 mins. of a ride.

Technically the 4into2 shouldn't have to be rejetted if you don't want to (mine  
wasn't) but I don't know 'bout the 4into1.  The 4into2 gives better bottom and  
midrange.

> Next question concerns the use of an aftermarket fork brace for the bike.  I
> would like to purchase one (Superbrace, maybe?).  Is it really useful, needed 
> on this bike?

Yup.  The VFR front end in this series really needs it if you're pushing the  
bike to it's limits.  If you don't, don't worry about it.  The best  
improvements you can make, though, are putting a better set of progressive-rate  
springs in, replacing the fork oil with a slightly thicker batch, and getting a  
Fox shock for the rear (you should be due about now anyway).  The original rear  
is shit and wears quickly.  With these improvements you'll see a major  
improvement in an all-around great bike.  I plan on keeping mine.

> I am replacing the brake and clutch lines with either steel
> braided or Kevlar

Always nice.

> Now, I have used SBS and EBC replacement pads before on other bikes
> to supposedly get rid of that notorious pad/rotor squeal, but to no avail.  I
> was under the impression that the brake squeal I hear is due to a vibrating 
> pad, not a poor pad (as the local mechanic was adamant in pointing out).  Who
> is right, and what should I do?  I was thinking about purchading a set of
> Ferrodo's.

Don't know 'bout that one.

 chain stuff deleted 

> Well, thanks in 
> advance and here's hoping for a nice spring/summer, unlike our rain soaked
> "summer" of 1992 (officially 27 days of rain tallied for July 1992 here in 
> Ann Arbor).

Don't know if you've been following the news, but out here in CA we've been  
getting record rain and mucho flooding (which puts nice little rocks and sand  
in apexes.)  8^(   And I ride every day to work.

> Uh, is this the place and time to request for the DoD #?

Not gonna do it.  Wouldn't be prudent.

Ah, what the hell.  Gang FAQ time.
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles