HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: tomk@netcom.com (Thomas H. Kunich)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: how to patch a tube--cheap
Date: 4 Oct 92 22:00:28 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)

In article <BvL35y.K4C@mentor.cc.purdue.edu> flip@sage.cc.purdue.edu (Phillip Russell) writes:
>
>Where can you buy extra patches?
>
>My glue always outlasts the number of patches that come with the kit.

Almost any bicycle shop can order just patches. My local shop in
Hayward does so I go in an buy a couple dozen at a time for (I think)
about $.06 each. They also carry these little glue capsules that are
also cheap. They only contain enough glue for a single use so I get
a dozen and carry four or five in the kit. Sealed as they are they
never dry up. Neither will the glue in a tube unless
there is a hole that lets in air.
From: paul@panix.com (Paul Gatker)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: how to patch a tube--cheap
Date: 6 Oct 92 15:37:58 GMT
Organization: PANIX Public Access Unix, NYC

In <19460002@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com> lous@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Lou Salz) writes:

>In rec.bicycles.tech, paul@panix.com (Paul Gatker) writes:

>    >Neither will the glue in a tube unless
>    >there is a hole that lets in air.

>     They always dry up in my patch kits.

>I have had the tubes of glue in patch kits dry out even before the first
>use.  It looks like the glue tube gets worn enough around the edges from
>bouncing around in the little plastic patch kit box to wear a tiny hole
>in it.  The workaround I have found for this problem is to wrap the tire
>boot material I carry around the tube of glue.  I make my tire boot

 Good, at least now I know I'm not the only one in the usa/world that has those
little tubes dry up in the kit. And thanks for the explanation as to why it
happens.


 Does anyone know where to get a tube of glue for the polypropelene tubes?
I have one but the little glue tube is dried out!?@!


-- 
*******************************************************************
paul@panix.com                                    COMPULITE GRAPHICS
Brooklyn NY usa                                Design & Consultation
********************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: ronf@panther3.panther.mot.com (Ron Feigen)
Subject: Bladed spokes
Organization: Motorola Panther Project, Chandler, AZ
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 16:29:56 GMT

I am looking for some advice on using bladed spokes.  I am a new cyclist, who
recently bought a Trek 5200.  It has Matrix ISO II clinches, and it currently my
only wheels set, and probably will be for a while.  The shop that sold me the
bike offered to rebuild the wheels with bladed spokes and alloy nipples for $50.
Living in AZ I don't beleive that an alloy nipple in a grommetless rim should be
much of a problem (nipple seizing) but what about the bladed spokes breaking?
I am very careful with my bike, we have lots of great (smooth) roads in AZ, no
potholes, the curbs (if you need a sidwalk) have ramps.  Keeping my wheels true
hasn't been a problem.  

Are bladed spoke are real maintenance problem?  Do they really help?  BTW, my
"good" set of tires are Cont. GP foldable w/latex tubes.

Any info would be appreciated, thanks

-- 

>
Ron Feigen
ronf@panther.mot.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: wdb43052@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Hal open the pod bay doors)
Subject: Re: Delta Brakes
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 04:29:48 GMT

As far as asking how well delta brakes work in comparison to chorus, how well
do delta and especially chorus brakes compare to shimano ultegra and dura ace
dual pivot brakes?  

Dave
wdb43052@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: stecko@cntrol.enet.dec.com ()
Subject: Re: Re: My first Century!!!
Reply-To: stecko@cntrol.enet.dec.com ()
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 22:03:00 GMT


In article <1992Oct6.152623.2484@maccs.dcss.mcmaster.ca>, 
|>
|>Along the same lines, has anyone tried the Byrne Speedplay pedal system?
|>I have a set on my racing bike (TREK 5500) and want a set for my touring
|>bike.  Needless to say, I LOVE 'em!
|>
|>Comments?


	   I own a set of Byrne Speedplays on my Bridgestone RB1 
	and love'm also.  I cleated them to a set of TIME Criteriums
	and have had no problems at all.  They are extremely light and
	easy to get into and out of.  I think they are coming out with
	a titanium spindle set next year for you weight scavengers.

	TDS
From: whalen@starch.enet.dec.com (Rich Whalen)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: helmet mounted lights?
Date: 5 Oct 92 18:32:00 GMT
Article-I.D.: nntpd.1992Oct5.183200.1229
Reply-To: whalen@starch.enet.dec.com (Rich Whalen)
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation, Shrewsbury, MA


For the Turbo-Cat upgrade to the Cateye halogen lights, the battery
is separate from the light unit.  The option of putting the light on
your helmet is accomplished via a helmet cover and velcro glued to the
light unit.

------------------------------------------------------
Rich Whalen

You don't know where these bits have been!
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: drela@athena.mit.edu (Mark Drela)
Subject: Re: Shims on cranks?
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 00:18:17 GMT

In article <TFB.92Sep27232049@badger.aisb.ed.ac.uk>, tfb@aisb.ed.ac.uk (Tim Bradshaw) writes:

|> So I probably need a new spindle or perhaps a 2-ring crankset.  In
|> the meantime I thought of making up a thin shim to go around the taper
|> to see if I could get it to sit a little further out.  But I'm worried
|> that it will either cause the whole thing to work loose all the time
|> or perhaps have some other nasty effect I haven't thought of.
|> 
|> Does anyone have any opinions on this / has anyone tried it?

I've used thin brass shim pieces between an aluminum spindle and aluminum cranks.
The shims were there to prevent galling and not to make the crank sit farther out, 
but they certainly did not cause any problems.  Just make sure the shims cover the
taper flats without any overlaps or large gaps (this is kinda obvious, I guess).

                   Mark Drela
             _______________________________
    o/LO  .' 
     O  .'  Gravity-Powered Technologies Lab 
      .'  MIT Aero-Astro Department  33-214
     '



From: khe@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Keith Erskine)
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 21:49:19 GMT
Subject: Re: Re: My first Century!!!
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech

In rec.bicycles.tech, casseres@apple.com (David Casseres) writes:

> In article <1992Sep23.222942.7058@gtephx.UUCP>, corfmanr@gtephx.UUCP (Russ
> Corfman) wrote:
> 
> > Also, I should point out that my cleats are red and they are fixed,
> > not rotational. The color doesn't matter, the shape does. On second
> > thought, maybe it does. I've never had knee problems riding with
> > the red cleats. Then again, I never did with the black cleats either.
> 
> If you have red cleats and they are made by Look, they are rotational
> cleats -- i.e. they rotate in the pedal, allowing your foot to rotate. 

I think David is right, the red cleats allow rotation, the grey cleats
do not allow it.

> With these cleats the exact adjustment of the cleat becomes largely
> academic; as long as the ball of your foot is over the pedal spindle and
> you can click in and out comfortably, the cleat is adjusted all it needs to
> be.

I disagree with this: I think it is still important to have the cleat
adjusted correctly with flotation systems.  Improper cleat adjustment
will increase the likelihood of premature ejection (;-), so you
may pull your foot out accidentally in a sprint (bad, bad, bad).
If the flotation pedal system has a spring that returns the cleat 
to the centered position (like the 1990 Look Arc pedals), it is good 
to have the cleat centered properly so the centering force isn't always 
trying to twist your foot one way or another.

Keith Erskine
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: mjohnsto@jenny.shearson.com (Mike Johnston)
Subject: Re: Chain Cleaners
Organization: Lehman Brothers
	<ALEXT.92Sep27172940@devil.ece.utexas.edu>
Distribution: rec
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 20:31:27 GMT

In article <ALEXT.92Sep27172940@devil.ece.utexas.edu> alext@devil.ece.utexas.edu (Alex Tomlinson) writes:
   > This brings to mind a question that's been bugging me for a while now.
   > If one uses kerosene to clean one's chain, what does one do with the
   > kerosene when one's chain has been cleaned?  Just "pour (it) out" as 
   > above?  Into what?  Is it really OK to just dump it into the 
   > {sanitary|storm} sewer?  Or will a gas station take it off my hands?

   Recycle it!  Pour the kerosene (or whatever solvent you use) into a
   jar, and reuse it from the same jar.  Don't worry about filtering it.
   Even with used solvent, your chain will come out clean.  I've been
   using the same batch of solvent for two years now.

A nice trick I use is to periodically pour the solvent through a coffee
filter before I reuse it. It gets LOTS of the gunk out.

MJ
--
Michael R. Johnston/System Administrator                mjohnsto@shearson.com  
  =-=-=  The official .signature of the 1992 Barcelona Olympics. =-=-=

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: black@akebono.math.ncsu.edu (Kelly Black)
Subject: Re: Why no cantilevers on racing bikes?
Organization: College of Physical and Mathematical Sciences
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 15:43:14 GMT

When this thread first appeared the first thing
that I thought of was the problems associated
with brazing.  What kinds of problems do you
avoid by not brazing?  The forks on road bikes
have much thinner walls.  Also, with road bikes
it is not that uncommon to buy new forks.  Calipers
may be safer in terms of compatibilities with rims,
brakes, and forks.  Except for a couple of pieces
most racers do not like to have things brazed
on their frames.  Even shifters are now moving to
handlebars.  I know of few racers who like to exp-
eriment with brazing when it comes to frames.

Kel
-- 
------------------------------------------------------------------
Kelly Black / Center for Research in Scientific Computing /
Box 8205 / NC State Univ. / Raleigh NC 27695-8205
e-mail: black@crsc1.math.ncsu.edu
-------------------------------------------------------------------
The secluded mermaids hate European goods, which have increased male 
power. The tabooed 'male' animal, the dog (used in the chase), is an 
added danger because it can see the spirit world. Dogs walk purpose-
fully on their own, although they have nowhere to go, and they freq-
uently stare attentively into space.  - Unknown
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: praetzel@marconi.uwaterloo.ca (Eric Praetzel)
Subject: Re: Cantilever Technology;  Scotts are more powerfull??  How?
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 11:42:37 GMT

In article <1992Sep27.031651.11152@dartvax.dartmouth.edu> Gen.M.Kanai@dartmouth.edu (Gen M. Kanai) writes:
>many companies use the "Scott Self-Energizing Brakes" on tandems just
>to show how powerful they are.  They are almost too much for a normal
>bike...
   Really?  How on earth can they be more powerfull?  Any canti's I know will
lock my rear wheel or put me over the bars when properly setup (the difference
being that the cheap ones will shift after a good hard brake).  I can not see
them being any better than any normal canti's.  On a tandom your problem is
with extra mass.  This means that you need a larger pad to distribute the
heat and more surface area for more friction; you do not need more force.  The
only good solution is a set of hub or disk brakes (now readily available at
Bike Nashbar for some high price).  I have seen radical differences over the
years in brakes performance but that is because of differing brake compounds.
However, the result is still heat and if the Scott ones are really more
powerfull then they will melt the glue on a tubi faster but they will melt it
just like any other canti.
  - Eric 

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: shenry@cs.rice.edu (Sam Henry)
Subject: Re: Hyperglide sprocket replacement
Organization: Rice University, Houston
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 22:07:57 GMT

In article <1992Sep29.185921.4419@desire.wright.edu>
mborgerding@desire.wright.edu writes: 
> ...  Incidentally, there is a tool on the market that tells you if
>your chain is getting too stretched.  

Again, there is nothing mysterious about measuring precisely, or
guagin, if you will, chain stretch.  Chain stretch is an indication of
accumulated wear at the pins and cams on either end of the links.

Stretch the chain and measure 12".  If the pin closest to 12" is
actually 12 1/8" or more, the chain has accumulated too much wear. 
If the measurement is around 12 1/16", order a chain from a mail order
catalogue. 

Simple, non-mysterious, no special tools required.


-- 
sam henry <shenry@rice.edu>
Wanna ride?
From: arpepper@math.uwaterloo.ca (Adrian Pepper)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Leverless quick-release
Date: 30 Sep 92 16:36:41 GMT
Article-I.D.: math.BvEGt6.93n
Organization: University of Waterloo Math Faculty Computing Facility, Ontario.

Has any manufacturer ever produced leverless quick-release hubs?  I
envision something into which you insert a separate lever, possibly
even an appropriate sized hex-key, to activate the cam mechanism,
removing it after the wheel is on the bike.  This might be useful for
mountain bikes, and possibly for track bikes, although nuts and
wrenches really do work quite well, and not much more slowly.

Adrian Pepper.
arpepper@math.uwaterloo.ca
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: praetzel@marconi.uwaterloo.ca (Eric Praetzel)
Subject: Re: Radial vs. crossed spoke lacing
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.misc 
Organization: University of Waterloo
Distribution: rec
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1992 20:49:29 GMT

  Where is Jobst these days?
Hi Les.  I guess this should be in .misc  so the follow up is for that group.

In article <PATRICK.92Sep25102854@casbs.Stanford.EDU> patrick@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Goebel) writes:
>
(1) For a given number of spokes, is a radial or crossed lacing
>pattern stronger in terms of breaking spokes?
  You need tension for a strong wheel.  That tension will not be different
with either lacing.  Since the spokes are not being deformed their life is
limited by fatigue.  So you would see no difference in spoke life.

>(2) For a given number of spokes, is a radial or crossed lacing
>pattern stronger in terms of the wheel slowly going out of true?
  The crossed will be better because of the crossing of the spokes.  This
will help transfer some of the load if a spoke comes out of true.  I believe
that the effect is very small though.  I don't remember Jobst mentioning that
in his book.

>(3) Is it generally easier to true a radially-laced wheel than a
>cross-laced one?
  No difference.  Those aero spokes of yours would make it fun though (ie
the spoke twisting or winding up very easily compared to round spokes).

>(4) Which is easier to build from scratch: radial or crossed?
  No diff if you are good.  Otherwise it would take longer to cross.

>(5) Which gives a more comfortable ride:  radial or crossed?
  No difference.  The maximum deflection of the hub is on the order of 1mm.
Do you think that you are going to feel 1 mm when the wheel is moving 10
times that much (and faster) and thats not adding the movement of the bars
or your flesh on the bars or saddle.

>(6) At one point the hub flange of the wheel described above actually
>broke at one of the spoke holes.  (Needless to say, there was not much
  That is the main problem with radial wheels.  Take a look at the amount
of metal that absorbs the tension.  It is much less on radial lacing than
on crossed lacing.  All of this for no benefit in aerodynamics.  But they
do look great. 
  - Eric
From: Gen.M.Kanai@dartmouth.edu (Gen M. Kanai)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Mystery Creak in a S-Works M2
Date: 27 Sep 92 02:24:22 GMT
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH
X-Posted-From: InterNews1.0a5@newshost.dartmouth.edu

In article <1992Sep23.154451.19773@galileo.cc.rochester.edu>
wgns@troi.cc.rochester.edu (C. Wiggins) writes:

> I haven't had my M2 for very long, and it's developed a fairly loud
> creak that I am having a hard time locating.  I work at a bike shop
> and I'm usually pretty good at silencing creaks, but this one is
> stubborn.  It happens only while seated, and it SOUNDS as though
> it's coming from my seat post or seat tube.  I've generously greased
> the seatpost, and I've WD-40'd the heck out of the seat post clamp
> but to no avail.  It's a very odd sort of creak -- it creaks almost
> constantly while I'm seated but I can't seem to make much of a difference
> in the sound of it by wiggling around on the seat or bouncing on the
> seat, etc.  What the heck could be going on?  I've heard that 
> aluminum bikes have more creak problems than steel ones, but surely
> I'm not going to have to put up with THIS much racket....am I?  
> 
> ANY SUGGESTIONS ARE VERY, VERY WELCOME!
> 
> Thanks in advance.

New M2 eh?  Nice bike.  Looked at it but bought my Cannondale M2000
cause the fat tubing is nice and stiff.  Interestingly enough, I have
the same problem as you but in a different place.  My creak is up by
the headset somewhere.  My fork, headset, stem and bars are all
aluminum, so I'm assumins its in there somewhere.  Any Cannondale
owners out there have the same problem?  

About your M2...I cant imagine after grease and WD-40 that the creak is
coming from your seatpost area.  Try to pinpoint the sound more.  Maybe
a loose crank bolt?  Loose cranks?  bad BB?  I mean aluminum is stiff,
so much more than steel so I can understand why this might happen, but
this is weird.

baffled as you are and wanting some solutions,

gen.kanai@dartmouth.edu
From: mhespenheide@pomona.claremont.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Pro equipment choices (re:canti's)
Date: 29 Sep 92 20:27:58 GMT
Organization: Pomona College


Some thoughts on the use versus non-use of cantilever brakes on road racing
bicycles:  A number of the high-end non-ferrous framesets use press-in bottom
brackets to save weight...so theoretically, all pros should be using the same.
However, one of the advertisements for Greg Lemond's titanium frame mentioned
that "Julian (DeVries, LeMond's mechaninc on Zed) insisted on a regular bottom
bracket mount for ease of service"...  Remember, pros do have to answer to 
their sponsors and their mechanics...otherwise, why hasn't the entire pro
peleton switched to superlight TIG-welded steel stems?
From: paul@panix.com (Paul Gatker)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: how to patch a tube--cheap
Date: 5 Oct 92 03:56:09 GMT
Organization: PANIX Public Access Unix, NYC

In <1992Oct4.220028.4400@netcom.com> tomk@netcom.com (Thomas H. Kunich) writes:

>In article <BvL35y.K4C@mentor.cc.purdue.edu> flip@sage.cc.purdue.edu (Phillip Russell) writes:
>>
>>Where can you buy extra patches?
>>
>>My glue always outlasts the number of patches that come with the kit.

>Almost any bicycle shop can order just patches. My local shop in
>Hayward does so I go in an buy a couple dozen at a time for (I think)
>about $.06 each. They also carry these little glue capsules that are
>also cheap. They only contain enough glue for a single use so I get
>a dozen and carry four or five in the kit. Sealed as they are they
>never dry up. Neither will the glue in a tube unless
>there is a hole that lets in air.

 They always dry up in my patch kits.

-- 
*******************************************************************
paul@panix.com                                    COMPULITE GRAPHICS
Brooklyn NY usa                                Design & Consultation
********************************************************************
From: casseres@apple.com (David Casseres)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Chain Cleaners
Date: 28 Sep 92 20:56:40 GMT
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech
Organization: Apple Computer Inc.

In article <102510003@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM>, khe@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Keith
Erskine) wrote:
> 
> In rec.bicycles.tech, scl@sasha.acc.Virginia.EDU (Steve Losen) writes:
> 
> > You can still immerse your chain without breaking a link. 
> > 
> > Just manually shift the chain off the outside of the big chainring,
> > pull it around the pedal and open up the front derailleur cage
> > (mine has a screw for this).  Free the chain from the front d. cage.
> > It will still be threaded through the rear d. and the right rear frame
> > triangle, but most of the chain will dangle down below the bike.

Actually it isn't even necessary to free the chain from the front
derailleur (which is impossible on some models).  Less of it will dangle
down so you have to move it more often to get all of it clean, but that's
OK.

> > Put your favorite solvent in a cut-open plastic milk jug or coffee
> > can and drop the dangling section of chain in there.  Agitate until
> > clean and repeat after pulling the dirty section of chain into the
> > solvent.  Although you can't dunk the entire chain at once, this still
> > works as well as completely removing the chain.
> 
> Good idea, Steve, I've been thinking about trying this myself.
> How do you protect the paint on the chainstays from the solvent?

Just use solvent that won't hurt the paint.  I find that the biodegradable
stuff from Performance, Simple Green, Citra-Solv, and kerosene are all kind
to my paint.

> Something else I've been thinking about trying is a DIY agitator,
> using a function generator run through an old car stereo, with a
> speaker attached to the bottom of a metal pan full of solvent.
> Crank the volume, dial the function generator frequency to the
> point where standing waves appear in the solvent, and presto,
> a sonic agitator!!!  The function generator could be replaced
> with another sound source, like an FM radio, but then the cleanliness 
> of your chain might depend on whether the radio was playing Barry 
> Manilow or Red Hot Chili Peppers ;-) Anybody else ever try anything 
> like this?

I've thought about a different approach: take the chain off, put it in a
sealed unbreakable container with (non-flammable) solvent, and stick the
container in the trunk of the family car.  Put another chain on the bike
while the one in the trunk gets clean from the vibrations and sloshes of
being driven around in the car.


--

David Casseres
Exclaimer: Wow!
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: djconnel@leland.Stanford.EDU (Daniel Connelly)
Subject: Re: Waxing or Oiling a chain?
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 92 12:41:20 GMT

In article <1992Sep25.200336.25843@mercury.unt.edu> jackson@ponder.csci.unt.edu (Bruce Jackson) writes:
>In article <92269.101947TOM@SLACVM.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU> writes:
>
>>What is the best way to care for a chain?
>
>My opinion is that waxing a chain is just too much bother.  I also feel
>that cleaning a chain is too much bother.
>
>When my chain gets dirty I just put a new chain on.
Your chains get dirty only every 1000 miles? 

>I use inexpensive
>chains (Sedis) and replace them every 1000 miles.  Since I consider my
>spare time pretty darn precious I'd rather not spend it cleaning chains.
 
I think consideration needs also be given to the wastefulness of using
resources in a short-term disposable fashion as well.  Sure, one can
get into a debate about relative magnitude of effect, that maybe
dispatching a chain and it's associated packaging to a local landfill
and sending another through the assembly and shipping lines isn't
worse than drinking a few 6-packs of canned soda or whatever, but
nevertheless I feel compelled to try to get the most out of the
material and energy resources I consume.

BTW I am not necessarily trying to flame Bruce.  Maybe changing
a chain every 1000 miles is a good idea.  However, for many "when
it gets dirty" occurs a lot more often.

>I've noticed that my freewheel cogs and chainrings last longer when I
>do this so it may even work out cheaper even without counting the time
>it saves.

"Last longer" than what.... letting crud accumulate or keeping the
drivetrain clean?  There are several choices.  For now, I'll keep
cleaning my chains.

Dan





--