HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: sharen@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com (Sharen A. Rund)
Subject: Re: Convertible Conversion
Organization: Lockheed Missiles and Space Co.
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 92 16:33:34 GMT

sk4k+@andrew.cmu.edu (Stephen James Kendrish) writes:
: 
:      Does anyone know anything about conversion kits?  I was thinking
: about converting a late model Trans Am into a convertible.  Does anyone
: know if it's actually worth looking into?  This car already needs new
: T-Tops and rear hatch.  What is the best company that does conversions? 
: If anyone has had their car converted, tell me how it turned out. I
: figured I could also buy the necessary parts to convert from a GM
: dealership.  Any feedback would be well appreciated.
: 
I know several people that did that to their 'older' cars and they turned 
out great - I'll check and get back to you on this

-- 
________________       __        ________________   "They that can give up
\_________      \     /_ \      /      _________/  essential liberty to 
 \_________      \_____/  \____/      _________/  obtain temporary safety
  \___________________      __________________/  deserve neither liberty
From: JJS158@psuvm.psu.edu (JJ Serowik)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: HELP...Brakes don't work
Date: 5 Oct 92 18:36:51 GMT
Article-I.D.: psuvm.92279.143651JJS158
Organization: Mythos/Xcalbrin Inc.
X-School: Penn State University

I have a '77 Honda Civic and I am having problems with the brakes.  It seems
that I am only getting mechanical contact on the front drivers side disc, I don
't know why this is the only one working.  If I pump the brakes really fast
sometimes they all will work but only rarely.  When only the front one
is working the brakes have no power boost on them??????  I think it's probably
the booster, as I have bled the shit out of them all, all to no avail,
Please help,
                 Thanx,
                 Dead Men have no use for brakes.
                 Rob.

Disclaimer-"I don't need no steenking disclaimer"
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: anbo@wuee1.wustl.edu (Albrecht Jander)
Subject: Re: PTFE (Teflon) Additives
Organization: Washington University, St. Louis Mo.
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 14:33:35 GMT

iseman@ravel.udel.edu (Stephen Early) writes:

> In article <o9kqRB4w165w@hale.cts.com> system@hale.cts.com (System Administra
> >I'm sure this must have been discussed somewhere before, but I didn't see 
> >it...
> >
> >What is the general informed attitude towards Teflon (A registered 
> >trademark of the DuPont Corperation, DuPont is a registered trademard of 
> >the DuPont Corperation also.  I bet Trademarks has been trademarked 
> >somewhere also, but....) additives?
> 
> Oh god, please don't rehash this thread.
> 
> Steve 

As long as there isn't a clear and concise article in the FAQ regarding 
this particular question, people will continue to ask!!  So, one of you
guys who gets all worked up when someone asks about T____n should write
up a nice article on the (presumed) pros and cons of such additives and
have it put in the FAQ.  After all, if you had doubts about putting some
gee-whiz product in your oil, where would you turn to for enlightenment?

Albrecht


---------------------------------------------------------------------------
                        Peltier was a cool dude!!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Time of the day and Filling up
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 5 Oct 92 07:11:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> The question is, Does it matter what time of the day you fill up your
-> gas tank?

 No.


-> Dana Sclaar ??) that filling up during the colder times of the day
-> gets you more gasoline per unit volume you pay for. Seems fairly
-> obvious, but what kind of difference are we looking at?

 Enough that NASCAR outlawed chilling fuel at pit stops, but you're
pumping from an underground tank that's at a pretty constant temperature
all the time.
                        
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:13610 rec.autos:23411
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
Subject: ADVICE for BMW repairs
From: asr_2@dac.mdcbbs.com
Date: 6 Oct 92 08:26:23 PST
Organization: MDC - Douglas Aircraft, Long Beach, CA
Nntp-Posting-User: riceg

Need a little net wisdom, since it hasn't failed me yet.
I  have  a BMW 325i convertible (1988) and have had front end vibration
problems ever since I bought it from a dealer(June) and they have been 
unable to fix it.  The front ent now vibrates every time I touch the 
brakes.  The rotors were just replaced and it went away for about a 
week.  Now it is back, is there any other place in the Orange county
area I can take this car to?  Someone who is trustworthy?  Advice is
appreciated,  I love the car but it is a real handful.

Asim

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Re: What is the air pump used for?
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 00:37:27 GMT

In article <1992Oct6.132017.12619@bnr.ca>, mbeaving@bnr.ca (Michael Beavington) writes:
|> 
|> Something that has been on my mind is the use of the air pump.
|> What is it's purpose?  Is it to supply air to the catalytic
|> convertor to clean up the exhaust?  Is it used to increase the
|> volume of air coming out the tailpipe so that the parts per million
|> of gunk is more dilute?  Who knows?

The main purpose was to inject excess air into the exhaust system to
assist in oxidizing the HC and CO.  This helps, even without a
catalytic converter, but is typically used with a 2-way catalyst.
There is liitle or no benefit to dilluting the exhaust mixture.

Later closed-loop systems use a Lambda oxygen sensor to control the
fuel mixture to the stoichiometric ratio of 1.0 and are used with
a 3-way oxidation/reduction catalyst.  Air pumps are seldom used
in post-1981 emissions systems.

Mark
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jdrout@scott.skidmore.edu (jonathan drout)
Subject: Re: DOHC in a V8 Possible?
Organization: Skidmore College, Saratoga Springs NY
Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1992 21:49:05 GMT


	If you want an answer, simply pick up the new Road & Track -
it lists all the cars available for 93, including powerplants.

	This would be the OCtober '92 issue.

			Jonathan Drout

		BTW - Lamborghini only makes v-12s for production at
this time.
From: neal@cmptrc.lonestar.org (Neal Howard)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Platinum Plugs
Date: 5 Oct 92 04:48:46 GMT
Organization: CompuTrac Inc., Richardson TX

>|> In rec.autos.tech, walkerr@yaya.WPI.EDU (Robert A Walker) writes:
>|> >>What are the advantages of platinum plugs over the standard spark plugs?
>|> >as much they gotta be better.
>|> 
>|> (That's right, I tried Bosch Platinums in my Toyota Turbo 2.0, and they
>|> were burnt out in less than 15k, giving me all sorts of running problems.
>|> corectly.) Platinum plugs are generally (as far as I know) only used/
>|> recommended for high compression or turbo/super charged engines.

Years ago when the Bosch platinums first hit the market, I tried them in my old
worn out '75 Olds Cutlass (350, 4bbl) and instantly noticed about 5mpg less
gas mileage and what felt like about 50 less horsepower (this motor had over
100k miles and was hurtin' pretty bad to begin with). After putting in the
cheapest Champion plugs that were on sale at Walmart, the power and gas mileage
were restored to what they should be for the old motor. 

>I've heard a lot of good things about Splitfire plugs too.
>
>If you are feeling leary of platinums (especially Bosch Plats), give
>Splitfires a try.

I put Splitfires in my Harley 1200 Sportster and noticed an instant gain in both
low end power and a couple more miles per gallon. This comparison was to a new
set of plain Harley spark plugs that were only 1 week old (100 miles on them).
I even was curious to see if there were actually two sparks being produced at 
the tip of these spark plugs, so I tried cranking the engine with the plugs out
to watch the spark. No dual spark but the spark in open air was significantly
fatter than the plain plugs. The spark seemed to arc not quite alternating
between the two points of the split ground electrode but kind of erratic, quasi-
alternating. I recommend them. They seem to be a reasonably attempt at a "poor
man's" dual plug. One question though. Who makes these plugs? I've only seen
them in Harley dealerships for H-D motorcycles. I haven't seen any around Dallas
for cars/trucks. I'd really like to try a set in my '92 GMC pickup (4.3L V6).
Judging by the construction of these plugs they look like they might be made
by either AC or Champion. Anybody know?
<--------------------------------------------------------------------->
< Neal Howard                         | '91 Harley Sportster XLH-1200 >
< email: neal@cmptrc.lonestar.org     | DoD # 686                     >
< CompuTrac, Inc. (Richardson, TX)    | '69 Cougar XR7-GT390          >
<--------------------------------------------------------------------->
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: atovorni@engr.UVic.CA (Andreas  Tovornik)
Subject: Re: Pinging with 1986 Ford Escort
Reply-To: atovorni@engr.UVic.CA
Organization: University of Victoria, Victoria, BC, Canada
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 92 03:31:16 GMT

In article 15239@vax5.cit.cornell.edu, rzdy@vax5.cit.cornell.edu () writes:
>Hi!
> I wonder if you can help me. I have a Ford Escort 1986 1.9L with 130K miles on
>it, and lately, the past month it has been "pinging". I notice it when my
>gas pedal is halfway, not when I put fully in or press it just a little bit.
>Also this pinging is more noticeable when I go uphill. When I accelerate with
>the gear in neutral (I have manual trasmission), I never hear any of this
>pinging. I do not have a lot of $$$$ and I was wondering what the problem
>is, how much it will cost, and how long the car may last if I do not fix it.
>It does not have seem to have lost too much power. 
>    Anu suggestions wellcomed!!
>
>  Thank you
>
>  Patrick MORCILLO
>Engineer (Of the genetic kind!!!)


Swith to a fuel with a higher octane rating. That'll do 'er.

Andy.

IGNORANCE disclaimer applies.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

The oil pump is a constant volume pump, which has the characteristics that 
the amount of oil is the same for each pump revolution.  Constant volume
pumps, by their design can put out extremely high pressures.  The function 
of the relief valve is to limit this high pressure.  If the valve is stuck
open, low pressures will result.  If the valve is operating normally, the
pressure will be limited by the volume capabilities of the pump and the
clearances in the bearings.  Excessive clearances can cause low pressure.

The relief valve on the filter merely allows oil to bypass the filter if
it is clogged.  It is there only to protect the engine from lack of oil
if the filter plugs up.  In addition, it prevents the filter case or the
filter element from rupturing from a high pressure caused by the drop 
across the filter.

Because of the engine bearing clearances increase with age and wear, it is
normal for the pressure to drop at idle in an older engine.  At higher than
idle rpms, the pressure should be limited by the relief valve, unless there
is some sort of mechanical malfunction.  You can increase the pressure by
using higher viscosity oil (i.e. 40 weight), replacing the pump with a 
higher output pump, or replacing the engine bearings (i.e. a rebuild)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: seanr@lobo.rmhs.colorado.edu (Sean Reifschneider)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Why Platinum plugs might not be a good idea...
Date: 7 Oct 92 01:19:46 GMT
Organization: Rocky Mountain High School, Fort Collins, CO

As I was complaining about my Bosch platinum plugs today a friend of 
mind suggested a possible reason that they might not work well on
some cars.

If a car has an exhaust gas recirculation system, and you have platinum
plugs, then the platinum element in the plug works with exhaust gas
just like your Cat converter.  So, you get water forming on the
plug then you get ignition.  Now, the question is, is this going
to be a problem?

Sean
From: colombo@bronco.fnal.gov
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 89 Jeep Wrangler slave cylinder
Date: 2 Oct 92 16:41:54 GMT
Article-I.D.: bronco.1992Oct2.104154.1
Distribution: na
Organization: Fermilab Computing Division

In article <80895@ut-emx.uucp>, rodder@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Jon D. Rodder) writes:
> I've got an 89 Jeep Wranlger, 258 (4.2l), 5spd, 57,000k miles.
> The slave cylinder appears to have died on it (have to refill
> the master cyl every other day, and there is fluid dripping from
> the bellhousing).  Has anyone here replaced one of these before?
> It appears that I've got to completely drop the tranny and transfer
> case, and that the "benchpress" method of tranny removal/installation
> I use for my mazdas and dastuns isn't going to work.  Does anyone
> have any suggestions on how to go about pulling it?
> Anything to watch for, any special tricks (like on a 2wd datsun 720 you
> had to rotate the tranny 90 degrees to clear a frame crossmember), any
> special tools?  How long should it take me without the convenience of
> a lift?  Or am I better off paying a shop $200 to R&R the trans/tcase
> for me?
>  

Are you talking about the brakes or a rear main seal on the engine?

-- 
 ___________________________________________________________________________
 *****  *   *  From the e-net desk of: Rick Colombo CD/DCD/DSG    *    *
 *      **  *  Fermi Nat'l Acc'l Lab   708-840-8225 Fermilab     * *   *
 ***    * * *  P.O. Box 500   MS 369   Feynman Computer Center  *****  *
 *      *  **  Batavia, Ill. USA 60510 Colombo@fnal.fnal.gov    *   *  *****
 *  Sure to get `Flamed' if I didn't cross all my i's and dot all my t's ;-)
From: rulon@ibms4.scri.fsu.edu (Phil Rulon)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Are cylinders in performance cars honed??
Date: 5 Oct 92 14:36:55 GMT
Organization: SCRI, Florida State University


 >>  So the question to all you netters is: "Are the cylinders in
 >> performance cars honed????".  If not, why not?

 > If it's a fresh bore job you'll normally go for a very smooth finish
 >when using moly rings.  If you're freshening a race motor, you do NOT
 >hone the cylinders while the pistons are out - at least according to GM,
 >Hastings, and TRW.

  Depends on what you mean by _freshening_, If you replace the piston rings,
you hone the cylinders, no exceptions.
From: chohan@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Harpal Chohan)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: BMW 325 poor mileage?
Date: 29 Sep 92 21:52:57 GMT
Organization: The Ohio State University

In article <lch96qINNop3@peaches.cs.utexas.edu> bunda@cs.utexas.edu (John Bunda) writes:
>I've got an '87 325 5spd.  This car seems to get about 20-22 mpg, all
>the time, city or highway.  When I first got the car, I figured the

Sounds about right, for the city.

>Finally, last weekend, I made a 200 mile highway trip and made a point
>to try to maximize economy (no AC, 55-60 mph).  For what it's worth,
>the silly mpg gauge showed a fairly consistent 30-40 mpg on the

Never paid it much attention :-).

>not sure it means much.   Fuel economy was still a lousy 22.  Am I 
>expecting too much from this beast?

Sounds low. Somewhere about 28 would be more reasonable.

-h
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hsd@swl.msd.ray.com (HERBERT DASILVA)
Subject: Re: Caravan/Plymouth AC & Cooling Fan Relays
Organization: Raytheon Company, Tewksbury, MA
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 00:08:02 GMT

>In article 20139@exu.ericsson.se, exuclh@exu.ericsson.se (Calvin L. Hall, x 6521, s034) writes:
>> 
>> How many of you have experienced problems with the relays located on the
>> driver's side firewall?  I've had several problems as a result of these
[...]
>> problem is further complicated because these two items work
>> occasionally, and usually all of the time when you or a mechanic is
>> trying to find the problem.

  Which is always the case when you take something to the mechanic... :-)

>> This type of setup is bad.

  This type of setup is basically standard throughout the automotive
  industry.  Just about every front-wheel-drive auto uses electric fans,
  which means they have to use relays and sensors to determine when to turn
  them on or off.

>> Chrysler should have provided some sort of indicator to let the user
>> know which item is defective. 

  They have.  If any sensor has gone out for any measurable period of time,
  the computer will log the fault in its memory.  You as a user may query
  the computer for its codes so that you know what is wrong.  However,
  this is usually the mechanic's terrain, not the end-user's.  Most folks
  don't want to know what's wrong, they just want it fixed.  However, if
  your mechanic doesn't know about the fault codes in the computer, you
  need a new mechanic desperately.  If it's not a sensor problem, replace
  the relay, and watch your temperature gauge carefully.  If swapping the
  relay doesn't fix the problem, you could have a short or a bad connection
  somewhere else.

>> Does anyone know if they acknowledged this problem and if they 
>> provided assistance in any past case?

  Some dealerships will cover this sort of thing under the powertrain
  warranty, some won't.  If your mechanic/dealership hasn't fixed the
  problem after the first attempt, find another, preferably one recommended
  by a friend or co-worker...

>> Calvin

	Herb "Mopar Maniac" DaSilva
From: seanr@lobo.rmhs.colorado.edu (Sean Reifschneider)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Fuel Injection Question
Date: 2 Oct 92 16:20:38 GMT
Organization: Rocky Mountain High School, Fort Collins, CO

In article <92275.78610.J066610@LMSC5.IS.LMSC.LOCKHEED.COM> J066610@LMSC5.IS.LMSC.LOCKHEED.COM writes:
>Does anyone out there know if there is the equivalent of a choke (cold
>start vavle ???) for fuel injected cars?  I have been trying to narrow

Yes, they do have a cold start system, but it depends on what kind of FI
system you have.  One of the Bosch systems (can't remember which one) has
an 'aux. air valve) that has a heater element in it.  The heater heats an
element that closes the AAV when it gets warm.  If the heater element in
it has died, it would act as you describe.

But the Mazda EGI system is a bit different.  For instance, it injects a
90% antifreeze solution into the engine for sub zero starting and just
holds the throttle open when it's cold.

Sean
From: bwelch@sedona.intel.com (Brian Welch)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Need Camshaft Specs for 84 HURST/OLDS
Date: 1 Oct 92 22:50:02 GMT
Organization: Intel Corp., ICD, Chandler AZ.
Originator: bwelch@alpine


I am currently rebuilding the engine in an 1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass
Calais HURST/OLDS edition.  The camshaft is worn and needs replacing.
Oldsmobile claims that the camshaft is no longer in production and
they cannot get a NOS part anywhere.  I need to know the camshaft
specs so I can find an aftermarket replacement that will give about
the same performace (horsepower, mileage, and emissions).

Thanks,

Brian
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: stiegg@aix.rpi.edu (Gregory Mark Stiegler)
Subject: Saabs, tires, and performance mods
Keywords: saab, tires, perf
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1992 15:41:07 GMT


After 2+ years my '80 900 Turbo is finally back on the street.  I'm looking
for some suggestions on a good all weather/performance tire (I'm sort of
looking at the Yoko A378s).  Any info on them, or suggestions (preferably
something in a reasonable price range) is appreciated.  Also, I currently
have 2 sets of Inca alloys, any remarks on putting a 205-60 on them, being
they are only 5.5in x 15in rims?  Anyone interested in buying a set of Incas?

Also, I'm looking for any and all information in regards to suspension
and engine upgrades, I'm planning to auto-X the car and any advice would be
appreciated (I'm use to racing RWDs).

Of course the obvious question is any engine mods that can be made in a 
reasonable sense.  The engine is the older B-block (integral water pump,
idler shaft, "fixed" wastegate, no knock sensor).

  Thanks to everyone,
    Greg


stiegg@rpi.edu


===========================================================================
  "Bureaucracy is a challenge to be conquered with a righteous attitude,
     a tolerance for stupidity, and a bulldozer when necessary"
                  -- Peter's Laws
-- 
===========================================================================
  "Bureaucracy is a challenge to be conquered with a righteous attitude,
     a tolerance for stupidity, and a bulldozer when necessary"
                  -- Peter's Laws
From: dprkmt@inetg1.ARCO.COM (Ken Tubman)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Front wheel bearings on FWD car (Honda)
Date: 30 Sep 92 15:31:25 GMT
Article-I.D.: Arco.1992Sep30.153125.2372
Reply-To: ktubman@arco.com
Organization: ARCO Oil and Gas Company

Is there anything special involved in working on (repacking)
front wheel bearings on a front wheel drive car?  The manual
for my '82 Honda Accord talks about "special" tools.  I have
done wheel bearings before without anything special, even though
the manuals sometimes call for them.  I'm not sure if this is
different because it is front wheel drive.

Do I really need to remove the races as seems to be indicated in
the manual?

Thanks.
-- 

Ken Tubman          ARCO 
ktubman@arco.com    2300 W. Plano Parkway
(214) 754-3871      Plano, TX 75075
From: javiers@hpmwtd.sr.hp.com (Javier Sanchez)
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 15:32:11 GMT
Subject: Help!! "POP" on car stereo
Organization: HP Santa Rosa Site (SRSD MWTD)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

Hi Everyone;

I need troubleshooting hints to fix the following problem on my car
stereo:

Hardware:
Eclipse 300 with two amplifiers (one for the rear speakers and the other
for the back speakers)

Problem:
When turning on the stereo there is a very loud "pop" on the front
speakers only, even if the volume is all the way down.  If the volume is up
even a bit, then the "pop" continuos until the volume is turn dowm.


I check the ground and connections and everything seems to be ok.

Please let me know if you can help.
Thanks in advance,

Javier