HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: girling@cs.sfu.ca (Doug Girling)
Subject: Re: F117 Gold windows
Organization: CSS, Simon Fraser University, Burnaby, B.C., Canada
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1993 01:38:08 GMT

In article <1jp4iuINN7ub@hp-col.col.hp.com> danl@col.hp.com (Daniel Lockhart) writes:
>Has anyone done any gold windows such are used on the F117?  I'm


I've not done it yet, though I have a `117 waiting in the wings as it were.
Try using a bit of a "space blanket".  This is very thin metallized mylar
and is available in both silver and gold. Not a perfect reflector, bright
light tends to shine through.

Somewhat thicker, but more appropriately transparent is to go to your handy
hardware store, where they have thicker metalized mylar to be applied to
house windows.  This stuff is available in silver, gold, bronze and
blarg-smokey.  It has the advantage over a space blanket in that it is
designed to be transparent.  As for attaching it, there is supposedly a
water-soluble/activated adhesive on the back -- there's a peel-off
protected poly<mumble> layer on the back.  (On the other hand, it could
just be air pressure and/or electrostatic forces holding the film to the
window, and the peel-off layer may be just to keep it clean...)

Good luck, no product comes with this guarantee,
Doug



-- 
Doug Girling, lab engineer	| Voice: (604)291-4428  FAX:   (604)291-4951
School of Engineering Science	| Usenet: girling@cs.sfu.ca
Simon Fraser University		| Bitnet: girling%cs.sfu.ca@relay.cdnnet.ca
Burnaby, B.C. V5A 1S6 CANADA	| CompuServe: 73777,50
Organization: University of Illinois at Chicago
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 08:50:23 CST
From: ALAN C. FUSCO, Ph.D. <U38339@uicvm.uic.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: Re: Advise on 1/48 F-117 Stealth
Distribution: usa
 <C1FnKy.8G1@da_vinci.it.uswc.uswest.com>

If you want to detail the F-117 cockpit, pick up the new issue of Fine Scale
Modeler. The F-117 cockpit is photographed in GREAT detail. Some classified
instruments have been removed, but there is more than enough detail remaining.
<You would think, that for the price, the cockpit would look a little more
futuristic>
From: c34657b@saha.hut.fi (Tuomas Viljanen)
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: Re: Which 1/72 A-10?
Date: 24 Jan 93 14:18:39 GMT
Organization: The Nibelungenlied Incorporated

In article <1993Jan21.151036.18919@ccd.harris.com> mew@controls.ccd.harris.com (Mark E. Warthling) writes:
>In article <1jkfe0INN5sf@slab.mtholyoke.edu> pscotto@MtHolyoke.edu (Peter J. Scotto) writes:
>>
>>Can anyone recommend a good A-10 kit in 1/72?
>The Acadamy Minicraft Kit is probably your best bet, nice kit and 

It is a plagiat of the Hasegawa T-bolt, but it has recessed panel lines
and does cost less than half of the Hasegawa price. I recommend.

--++ Tuomas Viljanen                     ++ For a battle like Crecy, you do ++
  ++ Lahderanta 20 A 19                  ++ not need a military genius like ++
  ++ SF-02720 Espoo FINLAND              ++ Edward III. All you need is an  ++
  ++ 358-0-592175 or c34657b@saha.hut.fi ++ idiot like Duke of Alencon.     ++
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: mew@controls.ccd.harris.com (Mark E. Warthling)
Subject: Re: F117 Gold windows
Organization: Harris Controls Division
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 22:16:30 GMT

In article <1jp4iuINN7ub@hp-col.col.hp.com> danl@col.hp.com (Daniel Lockhart) writes:
>Has anyone done any gold windows such are used on the F117?  I'm
>about to waterdown some gold paint and airbrush them, just want to
>check on other ways first.
>
>thanks
>daniel
>
I have had some success using what they call "Mylar Film", it is a 
fairly thin plastic almost like the shrink wrap that covers the box
on model kits, except that Mylar Film is gold tinted.  I apply the 
film to the inside of the canopy using Microscale Foil Adhesive,
available at most hobby shops.  Then when your canopy is painted on
the outside (only the frames of coarse) you see the gold tint on the
clear portions.  It turns out looking great, but I recommend playing
around with the stuff on some other "junk" before trying it on your
important stuff, because the film will crinkle if proper care is not
taken when applying it, and if this happens and you pull it off, its
nearly impossible to get that Microscale adhesive glue residue off
the inside of your canopy.

Have Fun!!

Mark W.
From: gse@ida.liu.se (Goran Sedvall)
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: Re: Advice on painting road grime
Date: 21 Jan 93 09:11:32 GMT
Organization: CIS Dept, Univ of Linkoping, Sweden

peterco@eff.org (Peter Cohen) writes:


>Does anyone have any effective techniques for painting road grime onto
>model cars?  My best technique so far involves flicking paint using a
>toothbrush and my thumb.  The problem is that the paint goes on really
>thick.  It's okay when I'm painting mud onto a jeep or a rallye car,
>because mud slops on to chassis, but I'm trying to figure out a way to do
>effective road salt.

>Road salt generally is translucent on top of the paint.  Should I thin an
>enamel, or try a water-based paint?  I've tried water-based before with
>bad luck...it flakes off, beads, or smears.  Any advice?

Well, I don't know if my technic is usefull but I found that my airbrush
have tiny slots in the front end. I have tried to attach a nylon wire 
in these slots, crossing the paint beam. That gives a very splattering
paint pattern and very usefull for painting heavy mud splashes. Alter
this method with washing- and drybrush techic.
Goran
From: kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM (John Kopf, X6305)
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: Re: HO scale mud and dirt
Date: 21 Jan 93 20:43:56 GMT
Reply-To: kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems

Use the standard "mud" and "dirt" paints, but don't stir them.

JK
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: SDupa@xview.csuohio.edu (Scott Hewis)
Subject: Need Suggestions For Glueing Styrene to Wood
Organization: Cleveland State University - Telecomm 
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 18:40:56 GMT

I am currently working on a project that includes having to glue a styrene
bridge pier to a wooden support base (wood along the back and the bottom),
and am having some difficulty getting a good solid glue joint any and all
suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks in advance,

Scott Hewis
--------------------------------------
* Scott Hewis; Telecom Specialist    *
* Cleveland State University         *
* email c/o scott@asgard.csuohio.edu *
--------------------------------------
From: kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM (John Kopf, X6305)
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: Re: Need Suggestions For Glueing Styrene to Wood
Date: 21 Jan 93 20:48:23 GMT
Reply-To: kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems

Try using thinned glue (not "welding solvent") to "prime" the wood, and then glue
to the primed areas.

JK
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: kuryakin@bcstec.ca.boeing.com (Rick Pavek)
Subject: Re: F117 Gold windows
Organization: Boeing
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1993 22:19:27 GMT

In various articles many people write:

Use various powders or films to make the gold canopy on the F-117.

I'd point out that the Revell kit uses yellow tinged clear plastic
and it looks really good.

At the scale of the models that are available, the gold flakes that
would be used to simulate this would have to be monatomic sized particles
to stay in scale.  In other words, it's impossible.  Look at the
Revell kit and compare it to the pictures, you'll probably realize
it's close enough.

There's times when you can't be exactly perfect when building a model...

Rick


-- 
Rick Pavek                       | Never ask a droid to outdo its program.
kuryakin@bcstec.ca.boeing.com    |           
Seattle, WA                      |   It wastes your time
                                 |          and annoys the droid.
From: kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM (John Kopf, X6305)
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: SHIP MODEL CLUB
Date: 22 Jan 93 20:00:39 GMT
Reply-To: kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems

San Jose/San Francisco, California area:

		South Bay Model Shipwrights...

A club for builders and admirers of scale, display wooden models of
old sailing ships -- solid hull, plank-on-frame, kit or scratch.

Beginning or "old hand", you are welcome to attend any of our meetings.
Please bring your model -- complete, in progress, or in the box -- or
any item of nautical interest.

Our dues are $12 yearly, to cover the cost of our monthly newsletter,
etc., plus a one-time charge of $5 for a club name badge.

Meetings are held on the third Friday of each month, from 7:00-10:00
p.m., at the Stanford Linear Accelerator facilities, 2575 Sand Hill
Road, Palo Alto.  Meeting dates are:

           1993
          ------  
        Feb. 19th
        Mar. 19th
        Apr. 16th
        May. 21th
        June 18th
        July 16th
        Aug. 20th
        Sep. 17th
        Oct. 15th
        Nov. 19th
        Dec. 17th

For further information call:

Jean Eckert - (415) 964-0561
Paul Jossi - (408) 241-0610
George Swierczynski - (415) 591-2540
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: d88-jli@nada.kth.se (Jouni Lindqvist)
Subject: Hellfire
Organization: Royal Institute of Technology, Stockholm, Sweden
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 14:29:45 GMT

Hi!

Yesterday I bought a Italieri modell of an Apache (without longbow-radar).

On the frontcover you could very clearly see that it was supposed to be equipped 
with Hellfire missiles but when I arrived at home and opened the box there was
ofcourse no Hellfires, instead it was equipped with Sidewinders and some stupid
:-) bombs.

Are there any good missile-kits 1:48 that contain Hellfire's out on the market?

Jouni Lindqvist.
From: hall@adobe.com (Ed Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: Whither Lunar Models?
Date: 25 Jan 93 23:59:22 GMT
Followup-To: rec.models.scale
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated

I've been trying to reach Lunar Models (a mail order company which sells
vacuformed and resin kits of science fiction ships, critters, etc.) but
have had no luck calling either their phone or Fax numbers--both have 
been disconnected.

Does anyone know if Lunar Models has gone out of business or did they just 
move?  

The latest address and numbers I have are (these are about 6 months old):

    Lunar Models
    5040 Grisham #102
    Rowlett, Texas 75088

    phone: (214) 475-4230
      fax: (214) 475-4984

If anyone on the net has their new address please reply to this message
or send mail to me and I'll summarize to the net.

Thanks,

Ed Hall
From: danl@col.hp.com (Daniel Lockhart)
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: F117 Nav lights
Date: 22 Jan 1993 18:13:27 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division
NNTP-Posting-Host: hpcsqm.col.hp.com

Going thru all the materials I have on the F117, I am unclear if the Nav
lights are removed for combat.  The red/green are only located on the top
side and look intergrated into the wing.  The rotating reds are located
one on top and one on bottom, and these are removable. Considering that
the bird makes in-flight refueling during most missions I am guessing that
the top rotating is left on, only the lower light removed.

Any ideas?????

daniel
From: williamc@usc.edu (William W. Chan)
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: Hasagawa 1/24 Honda Civic Si-R
Date: 24 Jan 1993 16:33:04 -0800
Organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: sal-sun9.usc.edu


	Did anyone try the new Hasagawa 1/24 honda civic si-r?  If so,
how is its quality compared with Tamiya product?

-- william
From: pscotto@MtHolyoke.edu (Peter J. Scotto)
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: Camouflage painting opinions needed!
Date: 25 Jan 1993 15:08:26 -0500
Organization: Mount Holyoke College
NNTP-Posting-Host: slab.mtholyoke.edu
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5


OK, I realize that airbrushes produce a really great finish,
but I've got a problem with some of the stuff I've seen.

When I see models with say, RAF bi-color patterns or modern
American tri-color patterns, I see alot of this feather edge
freehand stuff, where one color kind of feathers off into another.

However, on the actual  aircraft and vehicles I have seen, the
lines of demarcation between colors seem pretty distinct and should be
more so on the smaller scale model.  So what's going on here?
Is this a case of the tool driving the modeller?

Specifically, I'm working on an A-10 now with a three color
camouflage pattern (dark green, medium green, and dark grey).
When I look at the plans, what I see represented are distinct
patches of color, but when I look at the box, I see this indistinct
feathery stuff.  My inclination is to mask and use the airbrush or
use a brush.

Any opinions or advice on this?

--Peter Scotto

Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: rray@lookout.it.uswc.uswest.com (Randy J. Ray)
Subject: Re: Advise on 1/48 F-117 Stealth
Organization: US WEST Communications, Inc. -- Denver, CO
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 23:22:10 GMT

In article <1993Jan22.162032.5214@linus.mitre.org>, wesm@mbunix.mitre.org (Miller) writes:
> I'm looking to build an F-117 in 1/48th scale. I know at least Monogram and 
> Testors have kits. Is there anyone else and in your humble opinions, who make
> the better kit. Thanks.
> 

Monogram. Probably the most accurate kit, comes with a sheet of photo-etch, 
and they have a good track record for well-detailed cockpits (not that the
military will give anyone a really good look at the cockpit). And not too
expensive, especially compared to most 1/48 scale jets.

Randy
-- 
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Randy J. Ray -- U S WEST IT/CSD                 rray@lookout.it.uswc.uswest.com
                                                           Phone: (303)595-2852
"It's not denial. I'm just very selective about the reality I accept." --Calvin
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
From: williamc@usc.edu (William W. Chan)
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: Tamiya Paint Spray
Date: 21 Jan 1993 17:48:20 -0800
Organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: sal-sun10.usc.edu

	Is there anyone know where I can find the Tamiya color spray
in the California??

-- william
From: cdt@sw.stratus.com (C. D. Tavares)
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: Re: Need Suggestions For Glueing Styrene to Wood
Date: 21 Jan 1993 20:40:08 GMT
Organization: Stratus Computer, Inc.
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: rocket.sw.stratus.com

In article <SDupa.59.0@xview.csuohio.edu>, SDupa@xview.csuohio.edu (Scott Hewis) writes:
> I am currently working on a project that includes having to glue a styrene
> bridge pier to a wooden support base (wood along the back and the bottom),
> and am having some difficulty getting a good solid glue joint any and all
> suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

I can tell you what I used to use for styrene to wood or paper on
competition model rockets.  Mix up a 50-50 mix of Ambroid and tube-type 
plastic cement.  The joint is pretty secure, but will flex like chewing
gum if twisted, so after two applications of the stuff I would run a small
skin of five-minute epoxy on it to stiffen the joint.  These joints are
solid -- I once had a 3/16" styrene fin tear in half (rather than tearing 
off at the glue joint) when it clipped an overhead obstruction at launch.
-- 

cdt@rocket.sw.stratus.com   --If you believe that I speak for my company,
OR cdt@vos.stratus.com        write today for my special Investors' Packet...
From: natola@coos.dartmouth.edu (Mark A. Natola)
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: Re: F117 Gold windows
Date: 22 Jan 93 20:26:02 GMT
Organization: D.M.S. Section of Neurology

In article <1jp4iuINN7ub@hp-col.col.hp.com> danl@col.hp.com (Daniel Lockhart) writes:
>From: danl@col.hp.com (Daniel Lockhart)
>Subject: F117 Gold windows
>Date: 22 Jan 93 15:41:18 GMT

>Has anyone done any gold windows such are used on the F117?  I'm
>about to waterdown some gold paint and airbrush them, just want to
>check on other ways first.

>thanks
>daniel

One way I have read about (but have not done myself) is to mix the clear 
part of a metalic paint (you know, the part that sits on top when the heavy 
stuff settles on the bottom), with a very tiny amount of the color (gold) 
you need.  Airbrush this mixture onto the clear piece in thin 
coats on the inside surface of the part. Practice on something before you 
try it on your model.  The article mentioned using food colors (seriously) 
for tinted canopies.  I'd try yellow food color for the F117 if the gold 
paint doesn't look right.

Mark
From: e46brown@skyfox
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: RE: Which 1/72 A-10?
Date: 21 JAN 93 18:35:17 GMT
Organization: University of Saskatchewan
NNTP-Posting-Host: sask.usask.ca

it sure ain't monograms kit!!!  Lots of flash, raised rather
than engraved panel lines and the molding could be better.
Probably a re-release of an old kit. The only consellation,
it CHEAP!!!!!!



"The Tha the Tha  . . . That's all folks!" : Porky Pig
                                             ending Looney Toons


                                        Geoffrey Brown
                                        4th yr Mech Eng
                                        University of Saskatchewan
Xref: sparky rec.models.scale:904 alt.models:1422
From: swynghed@ohstpy.mps.ohio-state.edu
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale,alt.models
Subject: Re: Which 1/72 Mirage 2000 C?
Date: 21 Jan 93 14:35:06 EST
Organization: The Ohio State University, Department of Physics

In article <urf.727252758@sw2001>, urf@icl.se (Urban F) writes:
> X-Alt.reply-Address: n.g.u.fredriksson.swe2001@oasis.icl.co.uk
> 
> Italerei or Heller, that is the question. Anyone know
> which is the better?
> --
>  Urban Fredriksson  urf@icl.se  

As a french, i would say heller.
both of these two brand are good, i've done the mirage 2000 from
heller, it was good.very thin, well detailled, and good dimensions.
i did not tryed the one from italiery, but, as a french brand, heller
is the best one who could reproduce this airplane.

Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: rice@cray.com (Jonathan Rice)
Subject: Re: Fast Clock
Reply-To: rice@zizania.cray.com
Distribution: usa
Date: 22 Jan 93 15:38:00 CST

cs911225@ariel.yorku.ca (KEN E WILLMOTT) writes:

>After reading all the postings on this subject, especially the ones
>that suggest the necessity of a more flexible time scheme, it occurred
>to me that a computer is the answer. I could program my laptop
>to show any kind of time I want on its screen, and it could be easily
>switched to/from fast time, or paused. Or, has this already been done?

A friend of mine has a "Realroad" digital throttle (IBM-PC based) and it
includes a fast clock option.  You can set an arbitrary rate (faster or
slower than real time) and an arbitrary start time.  You can pause/resume
whenever you want to.  The clock can be shown in either normal characters,
underneath the cab displays, or in huge ones visible across the room.  If you
just wanted a fast clock, though, and not all of the simulation and track
power control, this would be overkill.

I've also seen ads (Model Railroader?) for a stand-alone program, but it was
expensive and only offered a few fixed rates.  Sorry, don't remember the
manufacturer.

-- 
Jonathan C. Rice  |   rice@zizania.cray.com  |  ...uunet!cray!rice

Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: myoung@mail.boi.hp.com (Matt_Young)
Subject: Re: Engine weathering
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 16:54:16 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

A couple of people emailed me to ask for more information.  I thought I'd
post it so we can get input from others too...

About "fixing" the chalk in place.  I use Testor's Dullcote in the small
spray can.  I have heard several people say that they tried different 
brands and settled on Dullcote -- I've never used anything else.

About chalks disappearing when sprayed:  I use a paintbrush loaded with
chalk and lightly drop the chalk onto the model where I want the weathering.
Then I go back and rub it into the paint.  Usually, it's stuck so well that
it won't come off even if I wipe my finger over it.  When I spray it with
Dullcote, I make sure to spray a light coat -- just enough to seal the 
chalk.  I have noticed that the weathering is minimized slightly, but it
definitely doesn't disappear.  My guess is that if you don't rub the chalks
in, the aerosol spray blows the chalk off before the Dullcote can fix it to
the model.  I have noticed that dark colored box cars tend to swallow up the
chalk (make it invisible) more than light colored cars.  That's probably
because of the smaller contrast between the car color and the chalk color.

By the way, the chalks I use are "Sanford" brand and I use the set called
"Earth Tones".  They are commonly available at art and craft stores and
cost $5-$6 (in Boise anyway).  Another set that I know people use is the
set of gray shades.

I would be interested in hearing from someone else that has successfully
used chalks in a different way than I have.


Matt Young  Idaho Midland Modular Railway (HO)
myoung@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com  Hewlett Packard Network Printer Division
From: winans@xray.aps.anl.gov (John R. Winans)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: Has anyone used foam for roadbed?
Summary: foam as a roadbed
Keywords: expando-foam,styrofoam,track,train,choo-choo,Bob Vila
Date: 26 Jan 93 15:52:52 GMT
Article-I.D.: mcs.1993Jan26.155252.3355
Organization: Argonne National Laboratory, Chicago Illinois

Hi again,

While explaining what expando-foam is to someone who emailed me, I started
thinking about the use of this pink foam that I found in a hardware store 
out here.  I think it is marketed as an insulation to be used on the outside
of a house before you put up the siding.  I once saw Bob Vila using it that
way on one of his fix-up shows.

This stuff is pink and is NOT styrofoam.  I think it has a silver
foil on one side and has the consistancy and strength of the expanding foam
that is marketed under names like "Great Stuff" and "Mountains in Minutes".

Anyway, a 4x8 sheet weighs less than 3 pounds and is about an inch thick.
A sheet costs about $15 where I saw it.  And looks like it could be cut up
using the cookie-cutter style and used in place of plywood.  Since it is
foam, you could use a knife (much unlike homasote) to work with it.  I suspect
you could place flimsy supports every foot or so to get the grades thay you
want, and then fill the entire underside with expanding foam.  You would be 
left with a very rigid surface.  And your whole layout would probably weigh 
less than yourself!

The only issue I am not sure of would be how to mount track.  Foam can be a 
strange animail when it comes to glues.  I suspect that bonded ballast would 
work ok, but only if you rough up the foam first.  Or if you are a cork-fan, 
you could use the expando-foam as glue (it sticks like crazy to ANYTHING) to 
hold the cork, and then bond to the cork.

Anyone try anything like this?  I might give this a try tonight if my
girlfriend would consider it an acceptable date activity.   With any luck
I will be happy even if the track mounting is a complete failure ;-)

--John
-- 
! John Winans                     Advanced Photon Source  (Controls)    !
! winans@mcs.anl.gov              Argonne National Laboratory, Illinois !
!                                                                       !
!"The large print giveth, and the small print taketh away." - Tom Waits !
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad