HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: cav@bnr.ca (Rick Cavasin)
Subject: Re: leather working
Keywords: leather, bookbinding
Reply-To: cav@bnr.ca (Rick Cavasin)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 93 21:32:24 GMT

In article <1993Jan24.203222.26003@samba.oit.unc.edu>, fladd@ils.unc.edu (Darlene H. Fladager) writes:
|> Oops!
|> 
|> To those of you wondering that last message was about, forgive me, I'm
|> still learning how to use this system.
|> 
|> I seek advice/information from anyone out there with experience in book
|> binding and leather -- I'm rebinding a civil war biography and I'd like
|> to put some ensignia on the spine (this will be a 1 quarter leather
|> binding)?  Should I soak/wet the leather first?  Will that damage the
|> leather?  Should I carve out the design I want or should I stamp it?

Disclaimer: I'm not a bookbinder.
As I understand it, the tooling used in bookbinding differs somewhat from standard
leatherwork type tooling.  In bookbinding, the tool is typically heated to around
the boiling point of water and hand pressure used to impress the design.  In
standard leather tooling you use the tools cold and strike them with a mallet.
I think you need only dampen the surface.  In any case, this won't damage the
leather.  I don't think the designs for bindings are carved.  If you are tooling
the binding, you will want to stick to vegetable tanned leathers.  Avoid leathers
which have been even partially tanned with chromium salts (chrome-tanned leather).
I wouldn't buy my leather from Tandy for such a project.  You want a leather that
will last decades and not contaminate the book.  Tandy's leather is not manufactured with bookbinding, let alone archival preservation, in mind.
Another thing to consider is a vellum binding.

You should probably consult a good book on binding, or better yet, contact local
bookbinders for advice.  Your local public library should be able to help you
get in touch with the bookbinding community in your area.

|> Where can I get leather stamps that are reasonably priced?
|> 
|> Also, does anyone out there know of a leather supply company which
|> carries 'archival quality' leather for bookbinding?  I currently
|> deal with BookMakers in Maryland, but there stock is on the pricey
|> side.

Expect to pay for good quality leather.  You won't be doing the book any
favours by skimping on the leather.  Is it really worth jeopardizing something
this valuable just to save a few bucks?  If you get 'stuck' buying more leather
than you need (it is often sold by the half or whole hides), you can do a couple
of 'practice' bindings on less important books to get your technique down. 
Here's another source for comparison shopping:

The Bookbinder's Warehouse, Inc.
31 Division Street
Keyport, N.J. 07735
(908) 264-0306
Fax (908) 264-8266  

They have a catalogue.

|>  
|> Many thanks!
|> 
|> Darlene Fladager
|> e-mail: fladd@ils.unc.edu
|> 

Good luck,
Rick C.
From: JBrandt@AAA.Uoregon.EDU (Pegasus)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
Subject: Re: jewelery cleaner
Followup-To: rec.crafts.misc
Date: 27 Jan 1993 16:33:13 GMT
Organization: The Polyhedron Group
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: fp1-dialin-2.uoregon.edu

In article <C1G0w6.Jx5@news.udel.edu>, pere@ravel.udel.edu (Persephone
Brooks) wrote:

 				Pere
Try Wright's Silver Cream, It is very gentle rouge based and does a very
good job. I normaly use boraxo hand soap, a tooth brush and hot water to
clean a piece befor pollishing. As you well know all polishing is whether
it is on wood or metal is replacing one set of heavy scratches with finer,
and finer ones. Even your finished polishes as to some degree are abrasive.

Pegasus
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc,rec.arts.misc
From: fladd@ils.unc.edu (Darlene H. Fladager)
Subject: leather working
Followup-To: rec.crafts.misc
Keywords: leather, bookbinding
Organization: UNC Office of Information Technology
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1993 20:32:22 GMT

Oops!

To those of you wondering that last message was about, forgive me, I'm
still learning how to use this system.

I seek advice/information from anyone out there with experience in book
binding and leather -- I'm rebinding a civil war biography and I'd like
to put some ensignia on the spine (this will be a 1 quarter leather
binding)?  Should I soak/wet the leather first?  Will that damage the
leather?  Should I carve out the design I want or should I stamp it?
Where can I get leather stamps that are reasonably priced?

Also, does anyone out there know of a leather supply company which
carries 'archival quality' leather for bookbinding?  I currently
deal with BookMakers in Maryland, but there stock is on the pricey
side.
 
Many thanks!

Darlene Fladager
e-mail: fladd@ils.unc.edu
From: lcornell@stein.u.washington.edu (Linda D. Cornell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
Subject: Re: CERAMICS DECALS?
Date: 23 Jan 1993 21:39:33 GMT
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
NNTP-Posting-Host: stein.u.washington.edu

Check the Ceramics Monthly magazine.  In the past years they have
had a couple of articles on several different underglaze decal processes.
Let me know if you have trouble locating this magazine!

Linda Cornell
lcornell@u.washington.edu

>>I've seen a process for applying what looks to me to be a Xerox transfer
>>to a piece *before* it is glazed, such that you can get a fairly detailed
>>image under transparent glaze with a lot of fiedelity...does anyone know
>>what this is and how to do it?
>>Thanks, Laura Bootsy Boutwell

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
From: pere@ravel.udel.edu (Persephone Brooks)
Subject: jewelery cleaner
Organization: University of Delaware
Distribution: world 
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 04:09:41 GMT

	Does anyone know of a non-abrasive, gentle silver polish or
jewelery cleaner which would be safe on silver jewelery with set stones?
A brand or even an at-home recipe would be great.  Thanks!

				Pere

_________________
Persephone Brooks
University of Delaware
pere@ravel.udel.edu  
 
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: bench@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (daniel.benscher)
Subject: Fermentation Temperature
Organization: AT&T
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 21:26:03 GMT

I do my brewing in a room that currently has the heat turned off.  I
plan on turning on the heat when necessary.  My question is:
when brewing an ale, how long/what stages is the temperature critical.
Is it (1) for the entire process, or
(2) just until fermentation starts, or (3) just until I rack/bottle.  I'm
just trying to save money on heat -- but not at the expense of a 
batch of homebrew!  Also, what is the minimum temperature that is safe.

I know I should try a lager and take advantage of the cold weather,
but I'd like to complete one more batch of ale first.  Thanks for any help.

Dan
bud@honshu.att.com
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1993 15:11:32 EST
From: <WTD100@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Microbreweries in California

I'm heading to California over spring break and would like to hit some
microbreweries and/or brewpubs along the way.  Specifically, I'll be in LA
San Diego, San Francisco, Santa Barbara, and Santa Cruz.  Any addresses,
proximity to interstates, etc.  would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks in
advance for any help.

Carleton Yoder
From: russ@hpkslx.mayfield.HP.COM (Russ Lown)
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 18:56:32 GMT
Subject: NCB Co. Centennial Ale Recipe Wanted
Organization: HP Response Center Lab
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing

I recently tried "Centennial Ale" from the North Coast Brewing Company in
Fort Bragg, California, and found it very tasty (yum). Given that it is
a "seasonal" brew and is not currently available,  I would like to try
and recreate it.

I was wondering if anyone has an all-grain recipe which closely
resembles this ale. 

Thanks,


russ
---
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~ Russ Lown, Response Center Lab      |                                    ~
~ Hewlett-Packard  MS 37MA  /__  ___  | "Between two evils,                ~
~ 100 Mayfield Ave.        /  / /__/  |     I always choose the one        ~
~ Mt. View, CA 94043 USA       /      |         I've never tried before."  ~
~ E-mail: lownr@mayfield.hp.com       |                                    ~ 
~ Phone : (415) 691-3421              |                                    ~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
From: ech@ac.dal.ca
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: ancient beer
Date: 25 Jan 93 13:59:47 -0400
Organization: Dalhousie University, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

In article <1993Jan21.153612.18275@noose.ecn.purdue.edu>, redfreak@softcopy.ecn.purdue.edu (Thomas Lobonc) writes:
> Just saw a news blurb that says 3 U of Pennsylvania archaeological
> chemists discovered beer residue in jars in Iran and Iraq that are over 
> 5,000 years old.
> 
> Tom
> 

	Geez.  I wonder if some TSP and a bottle washer would work to get 
rid of it?   ;-)

	ed

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Subject: Re: How about potatos ? (Can one make anything from them) ?
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean  VA
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 13:09:13 GMT

In article <93025.135521U53644@uicvm.uic.edu> <U53644@uicvm.uic.edu> writes:

>Well, has anyone taken this further, and made an analogue of beer from the 
>resulting malted potatos ? It may sound gross, but then, how appetizing 
>does a drink made from fermented barley sound ?

Papazian mentions potatoes as an adjunct to malted barley in New Joy, but 
states that potatoes don't contribute much flavor and are hard to work with 
(if memory serves).  Sounds like a lot of trouble without that much benefit, 
for those of us with access to other sources of fermentables.

John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own
Fidonet:  1:109/131  Internet:  jdecarlo@mitre.org
From: amazon@sgi.com (Stormwind)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Irish Moss - rec.crafts.brewing #9746
Date: 21 Jan 93 23:40:08 GMT
Organization: X Industries, Heavy Weapons R&D

(Kenneth Andrew Hamilton) writes:
>By the way, where did you get the orange blossom honey?  I ask out of sheer 
>laziness.  I've looked for it whilst grocery shopping, but haven`t put any 
>real effort into it yet, and it would be easier for someone to just tell me. 

typically i try to buy my honey
at the local health food stores,
because they have such a HUGE 
selection of honey and it has a 
minimum of manmade additives.

the orange blossom honey i found
in a large 5 pound can at a grocery
store i wandered past and checked
on a whim.  probably your best bet
is to pull out the phone book and
call your local grocery stores 
before you start driving around.	

		stormwind

		hell's amazon
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jbunn@seanews.akita.com (John E Bunn)
Subject: Re: Cleaning you bucket
Organization: SEANEWS - Seattle Public Access News + Mail
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 05:21:36 GMT

cobb@athena.cs.uga.edu (Jason Cobb) writes:

> What is the best way to clean your large 6-gal bucket for homebrew.


Heat your bucket over a 600 degree heat.  If the bucket does not clean
to your expectations, consider getting a glass 6.5 gal carboy.  Cheers!

JB

--
[] SEANEWS [] Seattle Public Access Usenet News + Mail [] +1 206 747 NEWS []
jbunn@seanews.akita.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: john@ice.stx.com (John DiMarzio)
Subject: Kegging equip.
Reply-To: john@ice.stx.com
Organization: Hughes STX, Lanham, MD
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 16:46:31 GMT

I have come by most of the parts for a gas-tap system that my dad
had put together for commercial brew.  I have the following pieces:

  25lb CO2 tank
  regulator gauges
  hoses (which I will be replacing)
  tap
  connection for older commercial kegs (not Golden Gate)

My questions are:

1) Besides a refrigerator (not included), what would I need (if anything) to
convert this system for homebrew usage?  

2) Can these old-style kegs be used for 5 gal batches of homebrew?
if I remember correctly quarter kegs are > 7 gal.  That leaves alot of
empty space. 

3)  Should I change over to Cornelius(sp?) keg/disconnects and forget
about #2 completely?

Sorry if I sound naive about kegging, but, I am.
Thanks in advance for any advice/answers. 

John DiMarzio
Hughes STX Corp.
john@ice.stx.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: amead@s.psych.uiuc.edu (Alan Mead)
Subject: new beer tastes too stong?!
Organization: UIUC Department of Psychology
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 04:25:47 GMT

I'm ready to bottle my first batch.  I drank the samples I pulled to
measure the SG and the beer isn't bad...  But it does have a rather
pronounced bitter edge to it.  I've read posts that imply that the beer
will taste smoother with ageing.  Is this true?  How much ageing are we
talking about?  

[Also, the descrepancy between the beginning and ending "potential
alchohol" readings seem to imply that I've brewed weak (3%) beer.  The
ending SG seems rather high (1.023).  Did I do something wrong?  I read
a lot of posts about "starting" or "softening" dried yeast.  I just
pitched (literally!) the yeast into the carboy and then stirred it up.
Is that wrong?  I was using a kit, if that helps.]
 
Thanks.

-alan mead
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: bickham@lynx.msc.cornell.edu.UUCP (Scott Bickham,C17 Clark Hall,56079,2737038)
Subject: Re: Low O.S.G. reading
Originator: bickham@msc2.msc.cornell.edu
Organization: Cornell-Materials-Science-Center
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 20:04:09 GMT

Actually, what works well if you know the amount in the brewpot is
to take an undiluted sample from the brewpot, force cool it down
below 100 F, and measure the gravity (don't forget the temp. correction!)
When you add a know amount of cold tap water, the total gravity is easily 
calculated from

	T.G. = P.G.*(vol. wort)/(vol. wort + vol. water)

where P.G. is the gravity contribution of the wort.  So for example, say
you had 3 gallons of hot wort with a gravity of 1.080.  Adding 2 gallons
of cold water gives a total gravity of

	T.G. = 80*(3)/(2 + 3) = 48  ===> O.G.=1.048

Of course this includes the cold break particles, but that shouldn't
affect the result by too much.

Scott
From: john.fix@hardgood.com (John Fix) 
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: GOOSE ISLAND BREWS
Date: 28 Jan 93 18:19:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Hardgoods East BBS - Eastchester, NY (914) 961-8749
Reply-To: john.fix@hardgood.com (John Fix) 

After years of going to Chicago, I finally stopped in for a sampling of
Goose Island Brewings beers.  If anyone has taken the brewery tour, is
it worth the trip?  I'd like to find out a little bit about their
process in brewing the "Blonde Ale" which I found to be very refreshing
and something I want to duplicate for the summer.  Do they go into the
ingredients used for particular brews while giving the tours?  I was
there on a weeknight, and was told tours are done on Sundays.

                                  -= John =-
                                                                                                               
----
+---------------------------------------------------------------+
|  Hardgoods-East PCBoard  (914)961-8749 HST  (914)961-8590 DS  |
|  Eastchester, NY   -  Hardware retailing BBS f/Triad owners   |
+---------------------------------------------------------------+
From: newell@italia.boeing.com (Brian Newell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Redhook _Original_ Brew Recipe
Date: 20 Jan 93 15:41:40 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Boeing Computer Services, Seattle

Every 18 months or so, the Redhook Brewery here in Seattle brews a batch
of their Redhook _original_ recipe ale. It's not one of their current
ales (ESB, Blackhook, etc.) which IMHO are not that great. But the
original Redhook brew is OUTSTANDING and I have been trying to duplicate
it - with marginal success.

I was wondering if anyone has an all-grain recipe for this beer - or has
come close to duplicating it? I believe Redhook original is a
Belgian-style ale (not a lambic). If there is any interest, I can
publish my initial recipe for comments, etc.


Thanks....

Brian Newell

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: rogers@ssvax.ndhm.gtegsc.com (John Rogers)
Subject: Re: using steel cut oats in stout
Organization: GTE/SCSD
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL7]
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 16:54:48 GMT

Stefan Yen Chakerian (schaker@centauri.unm.edu) wrote:
: elwin@gamma.DOMAIN.NOT.SET (Lawrence E. Brown) writes:
: 
: I made a mostly extract oatmeal stout the other day with 1.5 lbs
: steel cut oats.  I mashed them with 2 lbs 6-row, but didn't check
: for conversion.  

  In HBD someone mentioned using Quaker oats, anyone have any
  experience using these type of oats (original or instant)?
From: mgooley@advtech.uswest.com (Mark Gooley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: nameless stout
Date: 25 Jan 93 17:14:02 GMT
Organization: U S WEST Advanced Technologies

8 lbs. Alexander's amber malt extract (bulk)
3 lbs. clover honey
15 oz. blackstrap molasses
8 oz. carob powder
1 lb. chocolate malt
8 tsp. gypsum
3 oz Northern Brewer hops (alpha = 8?), boil
1 oz Hallertauer hops, finish
1 11.5g packet Edme yeast

1 oz. bentonite (attempt to clear) boiled in 1 pt. water.
1 cup blackstrap molasses (priming)

Heat 1.5 gallon water to boil, with chocolate malt (per Papazian).  Strain.
60 minute boil, with finishing hops added for last few minutes.  Dilute
wort to 5.5 gallons.  Yeast mixed in 35 C water before adding.

O. G.: 1.085
F. G.: 1.025 (higher than I'd like; reached in 36 hours).

Bentonite stirred in after 2 days of unchanged hydrometer readings.

Just bottled this, a day after adding the bentonite.  A bit sweet, very
cloudy: carob and molasses are probably to blame.  Time will tell.

Mark.
mgooley@advtech.uswest.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: billodo@cyclone (Bill O'Donnell)
Subject: Re: what's the difference? (Wyeast)
Organization: Rosemount, Inc.
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 15:02:17 GMT

wolo@cory.Berkeley.EDU (Greg Wolodkin) writes:
: John Decarlo writes: 
: > The major seller of liquid yeast cultures in the U.S. is Wyeast.  They have 
: > a sheet of information on their various yeast strains
: 
: Just how does one obtain a copy of this info sheet?  My local homebrew
: shop doesn't seem to have it, and I haven't seen it in the mail-order
: catalogs I have (though I don't have many..)
: 
: Is there an ASCII version anywhere that someone could post or email?
: 

I would be interested in this sheet as well. Please post or email.

--------------------------------------------------------------------
Bill O'Donnell                | Did I forget to mention Memphis?
Rosemount, Inc.               | Home of Elvis and the ancient Greeks.
                              | Do I smell home cooking?
billodo@cyclone.rosemount.com | Its only the river. Its only the river.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
From: jockagid@w350zrz.zrz.tu-berlin.de (Joachim Schuering)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Water (Ionic Exchange)
Date: 25 Jan 1993 12:08:40 GMT
Organization: ZRZ/TU-Berlin
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: w350zrz.zrz.tu-berlin.de


I promised someone to get the address of a manufacturer of household
ionic exchange columns to soften his brewing water.

SORRY, but I lost your address! Anyway, it may be interesting for others, too.

          BRITA USA Inc.
          P.O.Box 24305
          Oakland, CA. 94623-1305
          Tel.: (416) 510 271 1642

Your just pour your water through the column. It is very quick and efficient.

By the way, if you want to know more about water, try this excellent book:
   
          HEM, J.D. (1989)
          "Study and Interpretation of the Chemical Characteristics
          of Natural Water"
          U.S. Geological Survey Water-Supply Paper 2254
For Sale: Superintendent of Documents
          U.S. Government Printing Office
          Washington, D.C. 20402
          Price: very cheap! (something like 15 $ for 260 pages)
  
-- 
                               JOACHIM SCHUERING
FB 16 (Hydrogeologie) * HEL-A4/1 * Helmholtzstr. 2-9 * 1000 Berlin 10 * Germany
Tel.: [49] (030) 314 25675 (Office)       *       [49] (030) 686 0775 (Private)
                   Email: jockagid@w350zrz.zrz.tu-berlin.de
From: jharres@doc.bmd.trw.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Fermentation question
Date: 25 Jan 93 16:11:08 MST

I brewed a batch of beer using Cooper's Real ale and John Bull plain
amber extracts and Muton and Fison dry yeast (ale).  OG was 1.046.
It fermented rapidly for two days, then susided, so I racked to a
secondary.  SG was 1.015 after a week.  Couldn't bottle due to 
vacation plans.  Upon returning one week later, it was vigorously
bubbling again (1 per 3 seconds).  Nothing had disturbed it or had
changed (temperature) while I was gone.  Finally, last weekend it
settled down with a FG of 1.006.  I bottled it.  Flavor didn't appear
to have any off flavors.

As a note I dry hopped when I racked to the secondary.  

Any suggestions as to what's going on?

Thanks
Jim

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: shaub@cs.uwp.edu (Jeffery Shaub)
Subject: Re: ancient beer
Organization: University of Wisconsin - Parkside
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8]
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 20:02:15 GMT

hpctdfc (rcm@col.hp.com) wrote:

: Not necessary, as they had a recipe.  The recipe came from the oldest
: clay tablet known to man.  It contains the "Hymn to Ninkasi" which
: translates to a recipe (song) for beer.  Fritz duplicated the recipe
: at his Anchor brewery and was quite successful.


Where can one get a copy of this recipe, maybe translated into homebrewer
lingo (like a 5 gal batch :-) )?

-- 
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
    Jeff Shaub                   -     University of Wisconsin-Parkside
    shaub@cs.uwp.edu             -     Computing Support Center
    (414)595-2005                -     Kenosha, WI  53141
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Subject: Re: how to add body?
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean  VA
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 12:49:20 GMT

In article <1993Jan20.190540.9623@sco.com>
 stewarte@sco.COM (nothing a bullet in the belly couldn't cure) writes:

>Joan of Arc was burned for claiming that pepke@scri.fsu.edu (Eric Pepke) said:
>>Here are some things which can increase the perception or body; they may 
>>be used separately or in combination.
>>
>>1) Use all malt extract and no corn sugar or sucrose.
>>2) Use small quantities of specialty grains in the boil (< 1 lb).
>>3) Use larger quantities of specialty grains (1-3 lb) and do a partial mash.
>>4) Add maltodextrine or lactose.
>
>I'm curious about 2&3 here.  Is it really necessary to do a partial mash
>if you're using a pound or more of specialty grains?  My first two batches
>have used 1.5 and 2 pounds of specialty grains, respectively, and based
>on before-and-after tasting of the grains most of the sugars seemed to
>have been extracted (less than scientific, I know).  What's the advantage 
>of mashing specialty grains?

Depending on your definition of specialty grains, you don't really need to 
"mash" them.  In practice, I always extract the sugars from the grains in 
another pot, then sparge the grains into the brewpot.

However, if you are adding 1 lb. of pale malt or wheat malt, you are really 
going to have to mash it to get the goodness out.  No need for mashing with 
stuff like crystal or caramel malt.

John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own
Fidonet:  1:109/131  Internet:  jdecarlo@mitre.org
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1993 10:02:40 EST
From: Jeff Brendle <BLI@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: brewpubs in State college PA?

Actually Yuengling's is an old, established regional brewer and not a micro-,
I believe they clain to be america's oldest.  In any case, it is well worth a
taste and far better than if they too had gone under or sold out to the mega
breweries.  They do keg black 'n tan as well as sell it in 'pounder' cans;
the line is Premium Lager, Amber, Chesterfield (an ale), and Porter (yeah,
I skipped the light on purpose)... all are decent beers.

-Jeff