HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: hersh@expo.lcs.mit.edu (Jay Hersh)
Subject: Re: How much mash water?
Organization: X Consortium, MIT Laboratory for Computer Science
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 19:56:37 GMT

ulick@angelico.helios.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford) writes:

>In his book Miller recommends 1.33qt (32 fl oz) of water per ib of grist.

Since when does 1.33qt equal 32 fl oz????, somebody blew the math here :-) :-)


	JaH

--
Hopfen und Malz, Gott erhalts
There is nothing open about OpenGL
From: abirenbo@rigel.cel.scg.hac.com (Aaron Birenboim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: aeration - when?
Date: 18 Aug 92 23:24:32 GMT
Article-I.D.: hacgate.22943
Organization: Hughes Aircraft Colorado Engineering Labs

In article <18AUG199208584594@watson.bms.com> kaz@watson.bms.com (Joe Kazimierczyk) writes:

>  I recall reading somewhere (can't
>remember where) that one should avoid aeration when pouring the
>hot wort into a fermentation bucket.   Is this correct?  If so, why?

yes.  introducing O2 to HOT work will cause oxidation... the oxygen
will react with the wort giving an off flavor, and darker color.

>Is violently stirring the wort after it's cooled, but just before pitching,
>the generally accepted method?

yes.  after the wort has cooled, and yeast has been pitched, the O2 will
disolve in the wort, but not react as quickly.  before much of the O2
has a chance to Oxidize the wort at lower temp, the yeast is likely
to use up the O2 in reproduction.

>  Should I relax or should I worry?

relax.  only a very experienced beer taster will even be able to
tell if your beer is slightly oxidized.... say from a bad pour.
the difference will be very minimal.  I'm sure that even I,
a very picky beer drinker, will prefer your slightly oxidized
homebrew to 95% of the commercial beers.

also...  wort oxidation (disolving O2) will help breed more yeast,
making for a faster ferment.  if your wort is low on the O availability
to the yeast, your ferment will take longer.  it will be just fine,
but you will have to be a bit more patient.  I'm sure somebody will
say that this low yeast population is more likely to produce off-flavors,
but is debatable.  your RISK of infetion might increase due to the
yeast NOT startving out other microbes... but its just an
increased RISK.  most likely, if your sanitization is good,
the beer will not be infected.  besides, if your first batch
lasts as long as mide did there may not be enough time
for infection to develop! ;-)
--
Aaron Birenboim                                |I am just too tired to think
abirenbo%rigel.cel.scg.hac.com@hac2arpa.hac.com|of a good quote.
abirenbo@isis.cs.du.edu                        |    - ChickenHead
w (303) 344-6486                               |
From: leighann@sybase.com (Leigh Ann Hussey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Mead fermentation questions
Date: 15 Aug 92 00:10:38 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Banshee Brewing

I did two batches in January, a lavendar mead and a plain (the former
from H.E. Bravery's HOME BREWING WITHOUT FAIURES and the latter from a
friend's recipe).  The lavendar stuff brewed away furiously (though not
as furiously as my recent bitter, what a mess... ;-), calmed down within
a couple of months, and was crystal clear by April.  It's been in bottles
since, though we opened up one two nights ago, and wow was it good.

The second batch worked slow, slow, slow.  It was finally clear enough
to bottle in June.  It was never dramatic, there weren't what you'd call
big bubbles.  I finally siphoned it off the sediment because it wasn't
clearing, it cleared in another month, and I bottled it probably too
soon, since it sparkles quite a bit (with lovely sharp tiny bubbles).
But I'm keeping it in the fridge and trusting to my champagne bottles.

So I would say, unless it seems just too quiet in there, you're probably
ok.  I might add a little citric acid powder, since the honey has rather
little in the way of conducive yeast-growing atmosphere.

Slainte!
	- Leigh Ann


Leigh Ann Hussey 		leighann@sybase.com
"They're mine!  All mine!  And what's mine is mine!" - Daffy Duck
From: slk6p@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Spruce beer
Date: 18 Aug 92 20:58:59 MDT
Distribution: rec.crafts.brewing
Organization: Utah State University

In article <kelly.714162193@spyro>, kelly@spyro.cray.com (Matt Kelly (4274)) writes:
> 
> 
> I am fairly new to homebrewing.  I have brewed 5 or 6 batches, using canned
> extracts every time.  Some time I will try my hand at all-grain brewing, when
> I work up the nerve.  (I know, relax, don't worry.....).
> 
> I read somewhere (maybe in Papazian's book?) a recipe for what was called 
> "spruce beer".  In the recipe, a light ale or lager is hopped with new spruce 
> growth, picked in the early spring.  This is supposed to make a very 
> refreshing light beer.
> 
> My question:  Has anyone tried this recipe?  If so, was the spruce used as the
> boiling hop, finishing hop, or both?  It seems to me that using spruce for
> boiling hops would be a bit much.
I made 12 gallons of a Spruce stout (1/2= Summer Spruce, the other 1/2 became a
X-mas stout (w/ cinnamon,nutmeg, etc added)). I used one bottle of Spruce
Extract which was supposed to be good to 6-12 gallons.  It has a "sprucy"
flavor/aroma, but it is a bit strong for my liking- kinda seems "plasticy".  I
don't know how it would be in a lighter beer.  But the X-mas stout (I know it's
not the season yet!  But I've gotta sample!) has a much more balanced flavor
with the additional spices added.  
I had a friend (toot) who used fresh spruce growth for a spruce beer.  I much
prefered the flavor it imparted.  But we are a little late now for fresh spring
growth aren't we!  Go- ahead give it a try, or wait till spring.  I would
recommend adding them at the end of the boil (add finishing hops too though-
always more hops!).  With plant material it is always best not to really boil
it, but just to steep if after the boil.  You get the flavor w/o the jello.
					Brew on		JDW

> 
> This sounds like it would be a refreshing hot-summer-day beer.
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Matt
> 
> ==============================================================================
> kelly@spyro.cray.com                 |
>                                      | Semper ubi sub ubi.
> Opinions expressed herein are just   |
> that.                                | -Julius Caesar
>                                      |
> ==============================================================================
> 
>
From: emw@vaxc.cc.monash.edu.au
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: SURVEY: homebrew helper
Date: 19 Aug 92 17:34:52 +1000
Organization: Computer Centre, Monash University, Australia

In article <1992Aug18.134358.3037@Rapnet.Sanders.Lockheed.Com>, fbruno@shrimp (F. Bruno) writes:

>       Lastly, I just brewed an OAKEN-WEISS, sounds cool, but I shoulod get
> the real german word for oak. Basically s high SG wort 3.3kg wheat malt and
> 1 lb. light dried malt. and an ounce of oak chips. I can't believe the
> fermentation. not fast, but furious! The foam filled a 3" headspace in my
> plastic primary, sppouting foam out my airlock! Smells great, just like a
> wheat beer should! Its only been three days, but I am counting down to keg
> it!
>                       -Frank BRuno
>                       fbruno@ncavax.decnet.lockheed.com

The German word for oak is Eiche and the compounding form is Eichen-, so
oak-white would be Eichenweiss(bier) and oak-wheat would be Eichenweizen(bier).
I suggest the latter, since the former could have associations with Berliner
Weisse, which uses a different brewing process from the Bavarian wheat beers.
I'm putting this on the net because my attempt to reply by email bounced.

Monty Wilkinson, German Studies, Monash University, Melbourne, Australia

Drinking homebrew saves you money.  The more of it you drink, the more money you
save.  That's logical, isn't it?
From: gummitch@techbook.com (Jeff Frane)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: esters, banana
Date: 14 Aug 92 23:05:34 GMT
Article-I.D.: techbook.1992Aug14.230534.3397
Organization: TECHbooks of Beaverton Oregon - Public Access Unix

zen@hophead (Nick Zentena) writes:

>arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) writes:

>> In article <1992Aug6.183648.1734@techbook.com> gummitch@techbook.com (Jeff Fr
>> >arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) writes:
>> >As usual, Mr Schmidling is way ahead of everybody else on the "real
>> >information" curve.  Rather than spout off on the failings of popular
>> >opinion, Jack, perhaps you would like to provide some evidence of Wyeast
>> >contamination: for example, how about an objective test of randomly
>> >selected Wyeast packages containing identifiable contamination.

>        Are we talking about ALE yeast or Not? Since when
>        are ale yeast not supposed to contribute esters? My
>        only problem with Wyeast is that it doesn't make
>        ENOUGH esters!

>        No one making REAL Ales would want to produce
>        something without esters! IMHO it is a defining
>        diference between Ales and lagers. Neutral yeasts
>        are boring and belong in factories not fermenters!
>        Nick

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm.  Is there a connection here, other than something to do
with the subject line?

Which is not to say that I disagree with you, Nick; esters are yummy --
if they're the "right" esters.  I'm not that keen on banana, which I
_think_ was how this thread originally began.

I haven't had a Hale's Ale in years, but at one time their
"cask-conditioned" ale had an incredibly range of fruity tones; at times
it tasted as though they'd been soaking pears and peaches in it, other
times the apples came through.  Pretty neat stuff, really, and it sent
the local Brit-exiles into transports.

On the other hand, I get a lot of fruitiness from a judicious addition
of hops and running 1056 at 70F brings out some nice esters.

--Jeff

-- 
gummitch@techbook.COM  Public Access UNIX at (503) 644-8135 (1200/2400) 
"Where the press is free and every man able to read, all is safe."
                                    --Thomas Jefferson
From: slk6p@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: When do you rack from primary to secondary?dir
Date: 18 Aug 92 00:19:28 MDT
Organization: Utah State University

In article <1992Aug17.221356.16396@pony.Ingres.COM>, reb@Ingres.COM (Phydeaux) writes:
> I was just curious as to when people generally racked from the primary
> to the secondary fermenter... why do you  do it when  you do it?  I've
> heard several different opinions on the subject.
> 							reb

Being a subscriber to the blowoff method, it is pretty straight forward when
the transition occurs.
	Initially-  lag phase, then most active (exponential) phase with 
definite blow off occuring.
	Then- blow off subsides.  Fermentation lock in put in place.  The
initial phase usually lasts from 2-4 days.  The second stage (w/lock) lasts for
a couple more days.  
	So once the foam head of the ferment has settled closer to the surface
that there in no further threat of blowoff-  I like to get away from the
bitters and trub that collect on the sides and the bottom.  Then I'll let the
yeast live out there existence.  Once activity has truly ceased I bottle or
keg.   
	I often give the 2ndary a boost with some honey, or brown sugar, or
fresh wort.  If it's a fruit beer this is a good place for some more finings- 
sparkalloid for example.  Dry hops work well in the 2ndary- giving a real fresh
hop bouquet- even with pellets.  They also seem to boost activity for a little
while.  There may be some sugars or other goodies in the hops useful to the
yeasty beasties.

		Basically: " Feel the force Luke "
		or go by convenience-  when you have the time, or the next
		carboy becomes available.

_____________________________________________________________________
                                J. Wyllie (The Coyote)
                                SLK6P@cc.usu.edu

"As long as he's got 8 fingers and 8 toes, he's alright by me."  H.J.S.
_______________________________________________________________________

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: ted@telematics.com (Ted Goldblatt)
Subject: Re: UV a problem while brewing?
Organization: Telematics Intl., Inc.; Ft. Lauderdale, FL
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 22:46:47 GMT

In article <Aug20.214451.34430@yuma.ACNS.ColoState.EDU> copeland@lamar.ColoState.EDU (Jeffrey Copeland) writes:
[ in response to other comments ]
>
>These wrapping ideas are good where the carboy does not need to be
>cooled via some evaporation technique, if that is the case (as with
>the guy who originally posted the question) then some other kind of sheilding
>will need to be rigged up.  
>
>Though if you have wet cloth around your carboy to keep it cool it should
>also block out the UV
>

I assumed that I would get some benefit from this wrapping.  The 
question is how much protection is needed.  A wet towel will _not_
provide complete blockage of UV from direct sun.  Since (I have
been assured :-)) a few minutes exposure will skunk beer in green
or clear glass, i am worried that extended exposure (though usually
not direct) will be a problem, even if there is some level of
protection from a towel.  How much should I worry (I know, I
know... :-))?

Also, does anyone have an idea if any particular type or color of
cloth (or other materical that would be a good wrap/wick) would
be a better choice than white cotton towels (which is what I had
planned to use)?

Thanx!

ted
-- 
Ted Goldblatt    ted@telematics.com     (305) 351-4367
    Telematics Intl., Inc.   Ft. Lauderdale, FL
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing,alt.beer
From: steve@unidata.ucar.edu (Steve Emmerson)
Subject: Re: New BrewPub list
Organization: University Corporation for Atmospheric Research (UCAR)
Distribution: na
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 1992 04:41:18 GMT

jim@thor.albany.edu (SCHLEMMER JAMES A) writes:


>...  Perhaps straight compressed
>ASCII text is the way to go.

Why not just use the UNIX ...bib(1) format?  It's readable, supported,
widely available, and convenient.  Shouldn't take too much work to arrive at
brewpub-specific meanings for the % keys (the abstract section would be
perfect for commentary).  Also, the keyword mechanism should allow for quick
searches based on beer type (stout, lager, bitter, etc.).
--

Steve Emmerson        steve@unidata.ucar.edu        ...!ncar!unidata!steve
From: cd651@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Wally L. Blume)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: recipes for wine, mead wanted
Date: 21 Aug 92 23:09:55 GMT
Reply-To: cd651@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Wally L. Blume)
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)


In a previous article, jimf@cbnewse.cb.att.com (james.r.fehrenbacher) says:

>
>If anyone has recipes for mead or wines, I would appreciate
>seeing them. Thanks.
>

  I usually just play it by ear, any particular wine or fruit in mind?
-- 
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
   /   / __  /  /     |         Wally Blume         |"God does not play dice
  /   / _ / /  / /_/  |      Internet address:      |  with the universe."
 /_/_/ /_/ /  / __/   | cd651@cleveland.freenet.edu | -- Albert Einstein
From: carruth@mksol.dseg.ti.com (matthew carruth)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Liquid Yeast Problems
Date: 20 Aug 92 19:35:04 GMT
Organization: internet

I decided to use liquid yeast on my 3rd batch.  Last night  I had everything ready
for the yeast pitching.  At this point I took the package out of the fridge and 
discovered that it is supposed to pre-ferment in the package for several days.  I 
wasn't in a position to wait, so I burst the capsule and let it sit at
room temp for a couple of hours.  I added the contents to the wort.  This morning
I noticed no signs of fermentation.  How long is it safe to wait before adding more
yeast?  Is there anything else I should do, other than never repeat this
situation?
Keywords: 


-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
My views are my own and do not reflect those of my employeers....
From: jbasara@ssdc.UUCP (Jim Basara)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Unhopped extract nut brown ale recipe needed!
Date: 13 Aug 92 12:18:48 GMT
Organization: Sterling Software IMD, Vienna, Va.

The first beer I ever made was a Telford's Nut Brown Ale hopped extract brew.
My girlfriend, who at the time hated beer, can't get enough of the stuff and
now I have to make a batch every few months.  Does anyone have an unhopped
extract recipe that would satisfy her taste for Telford's and still make me
feel like I'm learning something???  Nothing against kits, but I do like to
experiment and learn about the components of different beer types.

thanks in advance,

--
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jim Basara
     uunet!ssdc!jbasara                "All the other nations are drinking
     jbasara%ssdc@uunet.uu.net         Ray Charles beer, and we are drinking
                                       Barry Manilow." - Dave Barry
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: dkl@xcluud.sccsi.com (David Karl Leikam)
Subject: Re: wine recipe/information wanted
Organization: Greater Montrose UFO Appreciation Society & Data Haven
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 20:00:33 GMT


   [ Wine stuff. ]
 
   Yup, have tried this a number of times, with variable results. As a 
summary, I think the cardinal rule to successful winemaking is, 
"leave it alone". Most people tend to drink it far, far too early. Most
of the chemistry doesn't happen during fermentation, and this also
affects the perceived sweetness, in my judgment.
 
  Of course, much depends on what you begin with. Quality winemaking
("vinification", for whoever asked) as practiced in most wineries
consists of grape juice and nothing else. Except in a few instances,
"chaptalization" or the adding of sugar, is not done and/or is
prohibited by law. (This is in countries where they have decent wine laws.
Maybe someday the US will catch up. Nah... :\)
 
  You're obviously not going to undertake something like this at home --
at least, not unless you already know enough not to need me to tell you.
But whatever you make will almost certainly be far, far better if you
can just leave it alone to age for about 6 months, minimum, after 
fermentation appears to have stopped.
 
  I suppose it is possible to create a dry blackberry wine, but why would
you want to? Anyway, you'll need to get some idea of the sugar content
of your juice, and add a minimal amount if you think you won't get enough
alcohol out of it. (Most homemade wine is alcoholic as hell. I speculate
that fermentation never really finished because the yeast can't survive
anymore.) Another tip is to use champagne yeast, which can tolerate a
higher alcohol content before pooping out.
 
  I doubt you'll be too pleased with the results. It's likely to lack
the complexity and character you're accustomed to in a dry red. There
_are_ reasons why grapes are the preferred source, after all. Fruit
wines are pretty much intended to be light, fizzy sparklers, sweet
rather than complex or powerful. 
 
  I did have some rather special luck once in home winemaking. I tried
for a madiera. To age it, I bottled it fairly young, put the bottles into
wooden cases, and stuck them in the back of my Chevy Blazer, where I
left them for a couple of months.  This is a close duplicate of the
heat and motion of a clipper ship's passage through the tropics, which
is what first turned Madiera wine from swill into delectableness.
 
  The results were great :)  Too bad I don't still have the Blazer...

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing,alt.beer
From: matth@progress.COM (Matthew J. Harper)
Subject: Re: r.c.b.CLASSIFIED SECTION
Organization: Progress Software Corp.
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 16:58:15 GMT

kswanson@casbah.acns.nwu.edu (Kurt Swanson) writes:

>I think Jack's idea is sound, and fair.  And since he's willing to do all the
>work, even more so...
>-- 
>Kurt Swanson, Dept. of Electrical Engineering and Computer Science,
>Northwestern University.  kswanson@nwu.edu

  Except for the fact that he's willing to accept *anything* for sale. 
This will include commercial merchandise.  This goes against net policy.

  I also see Jack's MALTMILL, and brewing videos appearing everytime it's
posted, but I guess that'd be okay.  Jack doesn't see his MALTMILL sales,
which are now over 100, to be a commercial venture.  

  Just who's definition should we go by?  It can't be Jack's, because he has
a vested interest and is there for biased.  (Before I get flamed for the 
previous statement let me back it up with the fact that if he was in a group
to make such a decision for a town body or such he'd be expected to step down
for just such a reason.)

-Matth


          Matthew J. Harper ! Progress Software Corp. ! {disclaimer.i}         
   God created heaven and earth to grow barley and hops. Now he homebrews !-)  
--
          Matthew J. Harper ! Progress Software Corp. ! {disclaimer.i}         
   God created heaven and earth to grow barley and hops. Now he homebrews !-)  
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: lbreid@athena.mit.edu (Lynn B Reid)
Subject: Re: UV a problem while brewing?
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 14:44:49 GMT

In article <1992Aug20.224647.24922@telematics.com>, 
ted@telematics.com (Ted Goldblatt) writes:
|> I assumed that I would get some benefit from this wrapping.  The 
|> question is how much protection is needed.  A wet towel will _not_
|> provide complete blockage of UV from direct sun.....
|> 
|> Also, does anyone have an idea if any particular type or color of
|> cloth (or other materical that would be a good wrap/wick) would
|> be a better choice than white cotton towels (which is what I had
|> planned to use)?

I was in Perth, Australia this winter (home of the highest-rate of skin
cancer in the world) when CSIRO, the government research labs, announced
their findings on protection from ultraviolet rays.  Seems that
red corduroy fabric provides the highest "sun protection factor" (on the
order of 3,000).  So rush right out and get some corduroy with which 
to swath your carboys......or perhaps you can finally find a use for those
horrible shirts your aunt sends for Christmas.

-- 
Lynn B. Reid, "brave Boadicea of Bayesian Bullshit"
Ralph M. Parsons Laboratory for Water Resources and Environmental Engineering
Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Cambridge, MA  02139

Inter/Bitnet: lbreid@athena.mit.edu    UUCP:  mit-eddie!mit-athena!lbreid
From: copeland@lamar.ColoState.EDU (Jeffrey Copeland)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: UV a problem while brewing?
Date: 20 Aug 92 21:44:51 GMT
Organization: Colorado State University, Fort Collins, CO  80523

In article <1992Aug20.180950.26403@nntpd2.cxo.dec.com> devine@49ers (bob devine) writes:
>mcnally@wsl.dec.com (Mike McNally) writes:
>: Wrap your carboy in aluminum foil.  It is quite opaque.
>
>What I do is put a large bag over the carboy.  Those large garbage
>bags or paper bags work well.  I've even seen someone use his old
>flannel shirts to cover the carboy so that the carboy looked like
>a miniature version of him!
>
>Be sure to leave room for the fermentation lock to adequately vent.
>
>Bob

These wrapping ideas are good where the carboy does not need to be
cooled via some evaporation technique, if that is the case (as with
the guy who originally posted the question) then some other kind of sheilding
will need to be rigged up.  

Though if you have wet cloth around your carboy to keep it cool it should
also block out the UV

Jeff Copeland
Atmospheric Science
Colorado State University