HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: lorax@ap.cl.msu.edu (Dale Gee)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.antique
Subject: Re: Manuals for old FORD Tractors
Date: 8 Jan 1993 04:24:06 GMT
Organization: Michigan State University, USA
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: ap.cl.msu.edu

In article <1993Jan6.193451.14708@spdc.ti.com> achenbac@epcot.spdc.ti.com (Jeff Achenbach) writes:
>In article <1993Jan6.132750.17928@ccd.harris.com> cone@controls.ccd.harris.com (Tom Cone) writes:
>>I know this is the auto group but maybe someone can help me. I am
>>looking for a source for repair or original manuals for old FORD
>>tractors I.E. 9N,8N,Jubilee. These were built in the fourties and
>>fifties. I have checked with my local book store and they don't
>>even show a listing for the Chiltons manual. I know Chilton made
>>one. Does anyone have their phone # or maybe another source I could
>>call.
>>
>>Thanks for you help.
>>Tom
>>cone@ccd.harris.com
>>
>
>
When I was in high school for my farm shop project I restored the Ford 9N    
tractor my family used in our apple orchard.  We wrote Ford and they sent
every thing you could ever want on the tractor.  This was over 15 years ago
but I would check with them.

Dale
From: bongers@gto400.asd.sgi.com (Hans L. Bongers)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.antique
Subject: Re: 1966 Pontiac Tempest Custom
Date: 4 Jan 93 23:21:55 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc., Mountain View, CA, USA

In article <1993Jan1.035611.10723@njitgw.njit.edu>, ajm9230@hertz.njit.edu (Anthony J. Messina) writes:
|> I've had this car for a year and a half now...I like it, but is it worth
|> holding onto? The only option it has is power steering. It no longer has
|> the original OHC six either. It is a 2-DR sport coupe. Bench seat. No
|> A/C, manual brakes(Yes! Believe it or not!), and not even hazard lights.
|> It has been recently painted and the body had a once over done, but it
|> didn't come out as nice as I expected...too bad the body shop guy
|> skipped town on me. :( It also has some serious leaks on the front
|> windshield...I've been looking into getting that sealed. All the auto
|> glass places I've talked to say that there would no doubt be a LOT of
|> rust that would have to repaired so I'd be better off letting a body
|> shop handle it, plus there is the chance that the windshield would break
|> when being taken out. Is it worth going through all this? Or should I
|> just sell it and let someone with more money restore/hot-rod/customize
|> it? I'm really confused as to what to do and would appreciate any
|> comments on this. They can be sent to: ajm9230@hertz.njit.edu
|> 
|> Thanks and hope you holidays were great!
|> 
|> Anthony 

Anthony ---

What you got here is a parts car for somebody working on a GTO restoration.
Its value will be determined by the quality of the sheet metal.  If I'm reading
your description correctly, you have what is called in the business a "post" car.
The way to determine this is to roll down both front & back windows.  If there
is an obstruction (post) remaining between the front & rear you got a "post"
car.  If this is the case, its worth even less.  If there is no post it is worth a little
more.

What's it worth???  Without seeing it, it would be hard to say.  If I'm decoding
your mail address correctly you are transmitting from New Jersey.  The car is
probably a rust bucket and therefore worth even less...  On the 66 tempest, you 
probably start at 2500 for a #1 (perfect car).  Take 500 off for post (less popular).
Take 1500 off for rust.  Take 500 off for non original engine.  You're down to
$0.00 before you know it.  Of course in Jersey you need a beater for the winter
so if its reliable it might be worth keeping.  Otherwise, $500 is about all I would
expect for it.  And that is only if its not a post and the doors and rear 1/4 panels
are solid.

E-mail me if you want details on where to look on a 66 for rust.

--- hans
Newsgroups: rec.autos.antique
From: Glenn Stauffer <stauffer@cc.swarthmore.edu>
Subject: Re: Lead Bodywork
X-Xxmessage-Id: <A7705C017B01433E@mac12.beardsley.swarthmore.edu>
X-Xxdate: Wed, 6 Jan 93 09:50:57 GMT
Organization: Swarthmore College
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d17
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 14:58:26 GMT

In article <1993Jan4.193020.25620@mlb.semi.harris.com> James W. Swonger,
jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com writes:
>
> I'm not sure what sort of primer to use over lead. I've been told an
etching
>primer is good for the brazed areas but that conflicts with my desire for
>cathodic protection, so I'll probably just blast it rough and go with
the 
>cold galv primer. If I run into problems getting adhesion to the lead
I'll
>have to find some way to deal with it. I don't know of too many things
that
>will etch lead either.

I was visiting Classic Chevy in Orlando, Florida over the holidays and
noticed minor paint flaws in several cars on the rear deck near where the
quarter panel, trunk, and window pillars join.  My uncle, who is well
versed in the restoration of Chevy!s, informed me that that area is one
where leading is used to cover a sheet metal joint and that the type of
paint flaw (ripply like paint bubbling slightly from a contaminent in the
primer) is common on leaded joints.  I!ve thought of filling some minor
body dents with lead on a car that I!m restoring, but am concerned about
getting paint to adhere well.  What!s the trick to painting lead to get
good paint adhesion?

A word about lead poisoning.  I used to work in a factory manufacturing
lead acid batteries and learned that lead poisoning is serious business. 
Poisoning mostly results from breathing the dust, but can also be caused
by lead vapor - present when lead is heated above 600 degrees if I
remember correctly.  I!d suggest using an approved respirator, wearing
old coveralls and footwear to avoid contaminating other clothing and your
household.  And shower well after you!re done.  If you have small
children in the household, use special care since lead poisoning in young
children is very serious.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.antique
From: kkalan@casbah.acns.nwu.edu (Kenneth Kalan)
Subject: Re: Is this a Model A?
Organization: Northwestern University, Evanston Illinois.
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 18:35:24 GMT

In article <1i3bk3INNoco@news.umbc.edu> robie@umbc4.umbc.edu (Mr. William Robie; POSI (GRAD)) writes:
>In article <1992Dec31.122319.25423@cbnews.cb.att.com> adh@cbnews.cb.att.com (andrew.d.hay) writes:
>>
>>you're right about the year -- approximately...  it could be early
>>'20s, i think.  *definitely* not an A, as they appeared in '28; not a
>>T either [too low-slung].  note the car is *right* hand drive!  makes
>>me think of early rolls-royces, but i doubt it's anything that fancy.
>>it does have the ghost's coffin nose, though...
>
>Don't put too much emphasis on the fact that the car *appears* to be a 
>right-hand drive model.  After all, all it takes to change a left-hand to
>a right-hand model in an early photograph was for the person in the photo
>lab to be a little careless and have the negative upside down.  I've run
>across this problem fairly regularly.
>


This isn't directly relaited since the car in question in not an 'A',
but my 28 A coupe has the frame set up from factory for right or left drive.
The frame has a cut out on both sides for the steering box.  Henry
wanted flexability, so there were right hand drive 'A's'.

Ken Kalan
PP ASEL
kgk@nwu.edu

Newsgroups: rec.autos.antique
From: fec@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (f.e.carey)
Subject: Ford 6-cylinder engines (was: Is this a Model A)
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 15:04:24 GMT


  >the first 6-cyl ford appeared circa '50.  it *was* after ol' hank
  >stepped down, though...


Ford introduced a flathead 6-cylinder engine in 1941 to
replace the miniature V8-60 that was available from
1937 to 1940.  The flathead six was continued after 
WWII and was eventually replaced by an OHV-6 sometime
in the fifties - possibly 1952.  

Frank Carey at Bell Labs
Newsgroups: rec.autos.antique
From: rgrodr1@pb2esac.uucp (Robert Rodriguez)
Subject: News Group Name Change (was: Re: 66 Tempest)
Summary: rec.autos.snobs
Organization: Pacific*Bell ESAC, Oakland, CA.
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 17:16:32 GMT

In article <1993Jan4.232155.15874@odin.corp.sgi.com> bongers@gto400.asd.sgi.com (Hans L. Bongers) writes:
>In article <1993Jan1.035611.10723@njitgw.njit.edu>, ajm9230@hertz.njit.edu (Anthony J. Messina) writes:
>|> I've had this car for a year and a half now...I like it, but is it worth
>|> holding onto? The only option it has is power steering. It no longer has
[stuff deleted]
>|> when being taken out. Is it worth going through all this? Or should I
>|> just sell it and let someone with more money restore/hot-rod/customize
>|> it? I'm really confused as to what to do and would appreciate any
>|> comments on this. They can be sent to: ajm9230@hertz.njit.edu
>|> 
>|> Thanks and hope you holidays were great!
>|> 
>|> Anthony 
>
>Anthony ---
>
>What you got here is a parts car for somebody working on a GTO restoration.
>Its value will be determined by the quality of the sheet metal.  If I'm reading
>your description correctly,
[stuff deleted]
>The car is probably a rust bucket and therefore worth even less... 
>probably start at 2500 for a #1 (perfect car).  Take 500 off for post (less popular).
>Take 1500 off for rust.  Take 500 off for non original engine.  You're down to
>$0.00 before you know it.

Jeez, this group is awful.  First you guys flame some guy because he's
trying to sell a set of tires that you don't think were factory equipment,
now Anthony here needs some advice and he gets told his car is worthless,
"probably a rust bucket".

Since anyone posting anything to do with non-original or modified cars
will be thoroughly flamed, maybe you should consider changing the name
of this group to:


rec.autos.snobs


or better,


rec.autos.pompous-asses


Jeez.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
Robert Rodriguez	1951 Chevy Custom, Rod & Custom Feb '93 Page 22
Antioch, CA
------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: mercier@charon.rutgers.edu (Gregoire Mercier)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.antique
Subject: sale 66 Mini
Keywords: SALE 66 Mini
Date: 12 Jan 93 17:57:48 GMT
Distribution: rec.autos.antique
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

I am posting this for a friend, just e-mail a responce to me, 
I will pass you his number if interested.
 
	1966 Morris Cooper Mini 1000cc
	factory rebuilt motor with 10k miles
	silver with black top

The car is in New Jersey, USA.

Gregoire Mercier      mercier@jove.rutgers.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.antique
From: adh@cbnews.cb.att.com (andrew.d.hay)
Subject: Re: Is this a Model A?
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 12:07:29 GMT

michael@sunbeam.ksc.nasa.gov (Michael D. Myjak x7-3286) writes:
"                       The "k" was his first big car with 6-cylinder
"engine. Rumor has it that it caused him so much grief that he vowed
"never to build another one. I believe that held true until Edsel (or
"was it Henry, III?) did it in the early 60's.

the first 6-cyl ford appeared circa '50.  it *was* after ol' hank
stepped down, though...

-- 
		+--------------------------------------------------------------+
Andrew Hay	|	one step beyond the outer limits of the twilight       |
a_d_hay@att.com	|	zone in the darkened room at the night gallery	       |
		+--------------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.autos.antique
From: adh@cbnews.cb.att.com (andrew.d.hay)
Subject: Re: Lead Bodywork
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 12:15:54 GMT

In article <1993Jan4.193020.25620@mlb.semi.harris.com> jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger) writes:
"From: brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks)
"                                        (One restoration book I read
"suggested never grinding lead due to dust - to use a body file.)

this is no joke -- take the threat of lead poisoning *very* seriously!

-- 
		+--------------------------------------------------------------+
Andrew Hay	|	one step beyond the outer limits of the twilight       |
a_d_hay@att.com	|	zone in the darkened room at the night gallery	       |
		+--------------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.autos.antique
From: rimelsjj@piston.detroit.ingr.com (Jim Rimelspach)
Subject: What division, year is Chrysler's Thunderbolt?
Keywords: Thunderbolt, Chrysler
Organization:                      Intergraph, Midwest Regional Office
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 18:13:52 GMT

At the International Detroit Auto Show, Chrysler has a concept car called
Thunderbolt.  The concept vehicle is a derivative from the original Thunderbolt.

What division and year(s) produced this vehilce??

From: doernber@hpl-opus.hpl.hp.com (Joey Doernberg)
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 03:01:44 GMT
Subject: Re: Wanted: Jag XKE interior trim piece
Organization: HP Labs, High Speed Electronics Dept., Palo Alto, CA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.antique

In rec.autos.antique, knight@netcom.com (John Knight) writes:

> I'm looking for a chrome plated plastic(?) trim piece to go around 
> the base of the gear shift on my 1967 Jaguar XKE.  I've contacted
> several of the places listed in Hemmings Motor News, but to no 
> avail.  I've been looking on and off for years.
> 
> If anyone out there in netland has any information or suggestions,
> please let me know.  Thanks in advance.

I'm not sure which piece that is. 

I bought the threaded "nut" that screws on the shift lever below the
knob from  Welsh Jaguar.

Here are the places I buy from:

XKs Unlimited (800) 444-5247 (JAGS); (805) 544-7864
BPI     (800) 231-6563, 231-5836, (713) 863-8384,
Specialty Interest Car Parts (800) 556-7496
Welsh Jaguar    (800) 875-5247, (614) 282-8649

BPI is the cheapest I've found.  XKs has the largest selection.
Most of them have big free catalogs, 800 numbers, and do mail order
business.



-------------------------------------------------------
	  @..@    	Joey Doernberg				
	 (----)  	joey@hpl-opus.hpl.hp.com	
	< I  I >	(415) 857-6315	(work)
	  "  "		(415) 595-1232  (home)
-------------------------------------------------------
From: indy@immacc.prepnet.com (Dave Tartaglia)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.antique
Subject: Woodies & Speedsters
Date: 8 Jan 1993 13:34:06 -0600
Organization: 'Immaculata College, PA '
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu


I am looking for a supplier of plans to build a woodie. Or a book on same.
It would be on a commercial chassis, so I am not concerned with duplicating
a particular model or design. 

Hudson Wagon Works from Hudson, Iowa used to sell kits and plans, I believe.
I haven't seen their ads in the last few years.  I recently sent them a
request for information at the old address. Anyone know if they are still in
business?

I am also interested in body kits for 20s and 30s speedsters and racing
bodies.

Thanks in advance.
From: kreibema@NeXTwork.Rose-Hulman.Edu (Michael A Kreiberg)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.antique
Subject: chrysler imperials
Date: 6 Jan 1993 05:17:17 GMT
Organization: Computer Science Department at Rose-Hulman
Reply-To: kreibema@NeXTwork.Rose-Hulman.Edu (Michael A Kreiberg)
NNTP-Posting-Host: o233-17.nextwork.rose-hulman.edu

My grandfather recently offered me two 1957 Chrysler imperials that have  
been sitting in Fresno CA for the past 15 years, they both have some body  
damage but no rust, they both are powered by 331? Hemis and they were both  
running when they were parked.

My question is what are they worth (approximately) as is and what would  
they be worth restored?
From: randyd@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Randall Elton Ding)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.antique
Subject: Re: Lead Bodywork
Date: 5 Jan 1993 22:13:57 GMT
Organization: Computing Services Division, University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
NNTP-Posting-Host: 129.89.7.4

Hi, I'm restoring my 68 Impala and was wondering what is the best way
to remove some lead filler from the joint where the roof meets the front
posts at the upper corners of the windshield.  I believe this is a spot
welded joint and filled with lead.

There is a rust hole on both sides which I need to weld up so I can
replace the trim molding clips, I would use fiberglass except that these
clips need to be spot welded in place while I have the windshield out.

Is it even possible to get the area cleaned up enough so I can MIG weld
in a patch?

Thanks for the help, Randy.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.antique
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: News Group Name Change (was: Re: 66 Tempest)
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 18:06:49 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 This subject (antique/classic autos) does seem to encourage flaming/
snobbery/fits of pique. However I think that anyone even moderately acclimated
to the USENET News environment recognizes that such verbal abuse is the
order of the day; hopefully they will develop a thick enough skin to cope.
It is, after all, only electronic huffery. 

 That aside, the (somewhat uncharitable) analysis was not that far off the
mark; to be sure, a Tempest of that vintage could be a rewarding project 
and a good-looking musclecar when restored. However, it is indeed over-
shadowed by the sister LeMans/GTO and is unlikely to be highly valued
unless its originality is (a) intact and (b) unique, and probably very 
close in content to the GTO configuration. And it is indeed likely that a
far-from-pristine (though this was not specified) version -would- find its
highest value as a donor of sheet metal and running gear to a higher-valued
project body.

 An estimate of value is a tricky thing unless you hold either a 
highly-traded "commodity" car or one well-known enough that a true market
value can be established. From what I see in the classifieds, most asking
prices are way over market; project '66 Chevelles all 'rodded up asking
$5000, for example, which sit there for months. If it takes more than a 
couple of weeks to sell, the price is too high; a couple of days, too low.
That's my opinion.

 This leaves out sentimental value of course. And there are some hobbyists who
prefer to work with types which are specifically -not- mainstream and/or
pinup cars. 

 I could ramble (and have) about the merits of restoring for love vs. money
vs. lack of a better idea, but I'll let you all off the hook this time.

-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
From: george@mech.seas.upenn.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.antique
Subject: Re: stripes
Date: 9 Jan 93 20:52:16 GMT
Organization: University of Pennsylvania, Mechanical Engineering

:>> "I own a 65 porsche 356SC.. the speedometer has some vertical stripes
:>> "starting at about 20 mph and ending at about 35 mph...

my 86-ish ford escort ( base 4speed, no tach ) had similar
mysterious markings.  I thought they were shift points, but
they didn't really correspond to any reasonable engine speeds.
( but then I also shifted to 4'th at about 80.. :-)


--
  /   george jefferson
\/ *  george@mech.seas.upenn.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.antique
From: jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond)
Subject: Re: News Group Name Change (and a plug for the hotrod list)
Date: Thu, 07 Jan 93 06:06:29 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
Distribution: na

jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger) writes:

> This subject (antique/classic autos) does seem to encourage flaming/
>snobbery/fits of pique. However I think that anyone even moderately acclimated
>to the USENET News environment recognizes that such verbal abuse is the
>order of the day; hopefully they will develop a thick enough skin to cope.
>It is, after all, only electronic huffery. 

Hey James, you should have noted the Hotrod List as the exception to this
trend :-)  Us hotrodders are at least as opinionated as the antiquers.

The key, of course is moderation.  Simply put, I won't pass through 
flames.  As I expected when I convened the list over a year ago,
the mere threat is enough to keep things friendly. I've only ever
bounced two messages.

For anyone interested, the hotrod list and its Usenet echo, alt.hotrod,
is chartered for the purpose of discussing anything that relates to 
high performance.  We talk about cars, motorcycles, boats, racing 
lawn mowers and lately, racing chain saws :-)  If you don't get 
alt.hotrod, either bitch at your admin or subscribe directly by
sending mail to hotrod-request@dixie.com.  In the subject line,
list your address as "subscribe your_address@your_domain".  The body
of the message is ignored and discarded.  Be prepared for from
25 to 40 messages a day.

John
-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC               |Interested in high performance mobility?  
Performance Engineering Magazine(TM) | Interested in high tech and computers? 
Marietta, Ga                         | Send ur snail-mail address to 
jgd@dixie.com                        | perform@dixie.com for a free sample mag
Need Usenet public Access in Atlanta?  Write Me for info on Dixie.com.
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: mzimmers@netcom.com (Michael Zimmers)
Subject: Re: Car dealers
Organization: Netcom Online Communications Services (408-241-9760 login: guest)
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 00:39:37 GMT

In article <C0GE0F.Ky7@cs.uiuc.edu> ward@cs.uiuc.edu (Christ Ward) writes:

>chohan@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Harpal Chohan) writes:

>>I wonder if anyone has tried being abusive back at one of these, as they're
>>leaving. Just curious as to how that scenario would have progressed...

>Acctualy AFOM got somebody like this.  This sales droid was being a snot to 
>her, so on her way out she said "Fuck You Very Much" very pleasently.
>The droid didn't catch it right away and was then in to much shock to even
>speak (once he did catch it).

Good story, but in general I wouldn't recommend mixing it up with an
obnoxious salesperson.  Remember the adage:

	"Never wrestle with a pig:  you both get all dirty,
	 but the pig enjoys it."

There's nothing to be gained by counteraggressing except a few points
on your blood pressure.  By the same token, you owe them nothing.  Once
you've written someone off, head for the door and don't let anything
slow you down.

-- 
Michael Zimmers                                    |  Home:  408 996 1984
SoftHelp                                           |  Work:  408 996 1965
Software Solutions for Open Systems                |  Data:  408 996 1974
Newsgroups: rec.autos