HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 92 08:03:18 MDT
From: earlyd@ee.byu.edu (David Early)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Distribution: world
Organization: Brigham Young University, Provo UT USA
Subject: Re: Finally, real test data on Slick 50.


In article <51300038@hpscit.sc.hp.com>, glaird@hpscit.sc.hp.com (Gordon Laird) writes:
>  
> 
> Opinions & Conclusions:
> 
>    I'm convinced that the contributing factor to my improved mileage is
> Slick 50.  After study and consideration of other variables, I have 
> discounted other factors as insignificant.
> 




I stilll mantain that Slick 50 solved my overheating problems.
I had tried everything.  I replaced every component of the 
temperture sending circuit, and my 84 Pont 1.8L non turbo
would still overheat in tracfic.

In goes Slick50 (last resort)---suddenly my problems were
gone.  I live in Utah and I did this at the beginning of the summer
and it got a LOT hotter outside after the treatmeant.  My car 
has not overheated since... and if you had known my car, you
would understand what a miracle that was.

I can't say anything about milage...haven't really done any
milage checks since then...most of my drviing is city.


Dave Early
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: hesse@watserv1.uwaterloo.ca (BJ Cameron - DCS)
Subject: Soliciting (oops!) looking for opinions on 4x4s[D's
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 13:30:49 GMT


I am in the market for a new 4x4 and am looking at:
   4-runner
   pathfinder
   rodeo
   explorer
   cherokee
   (and any others in that family)

I would appreciate any opinions/experiences advantages/disadvantages etc.

Thanks... Bri
From: avk@hafnium.cchem.berkeley.edu (Tony Konashenok)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: removing bumper stickers
Date: 9 Sep 1992 19:43:15 GMT
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: hafnium.cchem.berkeley.edu

Paper stickers (such as parking permits, etc.) can be removed by spraying WD-40
on them until they get almost transparent. Something depends on glue, so not all
stickers are removed this way. However, I believe this method is the easiest on
paint, so try it first!
-- 
Tony Konashenok   avk@hafnium.cchem.berkeley.edu   (510)527-7524 (home)
University of California, Berkeley                 (510)642-5831 (office)

Strauss research group, Latimer Hall, UC Berkeley, Berkeley CA 94720, U.S.A.
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: R1004@vmcms.csuohio.edu
Subject: Re: disc brake question
Organization: CSU
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 14:06:20 GMT

    Look at this from a different angle.  What is the function of the
brakeing system?  To slow the car down.  How is this done?  The friction
of the shoes/pads against the drums/rotors.  What is happening?  The
kinetic energy of the car is being converted into Thermal energy -
Heat.  The heat is then dissapated into the surrounding air by the
components of the brakes.
 
    Disk brakes have a higher rate of heat transfer, the exposed
rotor surface not in contact with the pads acts as a radiator.
For a given area of braking surface disks are more efficient =
better brakeing action.
 
    In most production cars the pads ride on the rotors ALL the
time.  The drag is minimal, prevents buildup of corrosion on the
rotor, prevents crap from getting stuck between the pad and the
rotor.
 
   If the ONLY reason disks are put on cars is because they are
cheaper and easier to assemble why are four wheel disks an expensive
option on some cars and standard on the VERY expensive sports
cars?  If the drums are superior why doesn't the Corvette ZR-1
come with four wheel drums?  Why don't the buyers insist on them?
 
  I've worked on about five cars with disk brakes, Never turned a
rotor.  In fact my old Chevette in the 145,000 miles I had it never
had a rotor turned (It had several calipers because the design sucked).
But I have had several drums turned in my time.  When something gets
caught in a drum there is no where for it to go.
 
  As far a firmness goes, the firmest brakes I've ever felt
where on a car w/ four wheel disks.
 
 
  Disks are better.  Period.  The only reasons most cars still have
drums on the back are 1. The rears don't do that much of the work,
and 2.  They are CHEAPER!
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Martel               |
bob2@cua3.csuohio.edu    |  Lady luck must have been a wonderful girl
R1004@vmcms.csuohio.edu  |    -She's never been a friend of mine!
                         |                        Alan Parsons Project
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: jim@mwhhlaw (James P. Cavanaugh III)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Mercedes pro's & con's?
Date: 15 Sep 92 12:17:32 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Martin Wade Hartley & Hollingsworth

In article <1992Sep14.145301.14247@cbnewsk.cb.att.com>  
monwel@cbnewsk.cb.att.com (douglas.w.monroe) writes:
(stuff deleted)
 I am asking, on his behalf, for any personal opinions, experiences,
> etc. for these cars. Pro's and con's are welcomed. Focus on  
reliabilty and cost
> of repair would be very helpfull too. Pointers to other cars which  
will take
> the abuse of 120miles/day can be thrown in here as well! Thanks a  
bunch!
> 
> Please include:
>(more stuff deleted) 
> Winter starting/running problems with diesel?
> 

	This is the only part of your query that I can add to.  My  
brother in law is a farmer and has mucho experience with diesel  
equipment.  My sister has a 100 mile daily commute and does so in a  
diesel VW Jetta.  The 2 main diesel winter problems are hard starting  
and fuel gelling.  Sis has never (in 8 years or so) had either of these  
problems.  Here's how.
	1.  It gets cold in northern Indiana in the winter, so she  
popped for the electric engine block heater.  Just plug the car in at  
night.  Then, when it's 5 below at 5 a.m., the engine block and engine  
oil are toasty warm.  As long as the fuel is liquid and not jelly, the  
car will start.
	2.  Never buy diesel fuel at a city or suburban gas station.   
Diesel fuel is specially blended for cold weather applications.  If it  
is not properly blended, the fuel will turn to jelly.  Jelly will not  
flow through injectors.  This means that the car will not run until the  
fuel system has been taken apart and cleaned out.  $$$.  At truck stops  
and farm fuel dealers, they sell enough diesel so that the supply is  
always fresh and properly blended for the season.  At the suburban gas  
station, the oil company may deliver the right blend in october or  
november, but it may be added to a 1/2 tank of stuff that came in  
August or September.  On sis's farm, they maintain their own tank of  
diesel, always know what is in it, and have never had fuel gel in the  
car or any of the other equipment.  

Jim Cavanaugh
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: beuf@wpi.WPI.EDU (Richard J Fuller)
Subject: Spaces at an angle...
Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 16:31:35 GMT






ok hold on I made a carless mistake but allow me to add in a new thought!!!!

----------
\        |
 \       |
  \      |
   \     |
    \    |
     \   |
      \  |
       \ |
        \|

ok now the angle of interest is the same as the angle the \ line makes
with the screen ....
now the question is how wide is that angle..????
a max I think would be 30 degrees which would make the effective space 14% smaller 
cosine(30) = cos(PI/6) = .86
if the angle was 20degrees then the spce would be 7% smaller
if the angle was 15 degrees then the space would be 3.5%
if the angle was 10 degrees then the space would be 1.5% smaller


so I guess the question that your original point of angled spaces in general 
being smaller then straight ones is????
Do the line painters make the --------- side 14-1.5% larger to compensate for the 
cosine of the angle factor...


and rememver that the cosine of a small angle is approx 1 so unless the angle is
large this effect is rather small...  BUT I MUST ADMIT THAT ALTHOUGH SMALL THE 
EFFECT IS THERE@@@!!!!!
so the original question is are angled spaces narrower then straight ones
the answer is THAT IT DEPENDS and the deciding factor is if the line painters
accounted for this simple fact of geometry... If they did not then I agree
the space will be 2-10% thiner...
 
if they account for the angle then the question is if they over compenstated
then the angled spot may be larger then the straight one....

I guess it is a mute point by now......
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: kpjone01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu
Subject: Broken 86 GTi Tach.
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 00:09:28 GMT
Organization: University of Louisville

Greets, 
 
I am considering the purchase of a used instrument cluster due to the fact
that my original tach does not work.  Providing I get a cluster within
a decent price range, how can I get the milage changed to that of my current
odometer.  The one I have in mind has about 15K LESS than my current odometer.
Is there any easy way I can run up the milage myself besides putting it into 
the car?  

Thanks..
 

Kevin

KPJONE01@ULKYVX.CT.LOUISVILLE.EDU
 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: chang@venus.cs.umbc.edu (Richard Chang)
Subject: Re: Broken Reverse Light Switch
Organization: University of Maryland Baltimore Campus, Computer Science Department
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1992 18:48:08 GMT

Then, there is the symptom for my reverse light switch.
It works until the car starts moving.  Then, it goes out.

Haven't figured out why, don't have the time.

Richard
From: baw2@cunixb.cc.columbia.edu (Bruce A Weisberg)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Shop Manual
Date: 9 Sep 92 16:39:37 GMT
Reply-To: baw2@cunixb.cc.columbia.edu (Bruce A Weisberg)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Columbia University


	FOR SALE:

	1. Robert Bentley Factory Authorized Repair Manual, for
	VW Rabbit/scirrocco (sp?)  1975-1979
	Used, but like new (not greasy or beat up).......  20.00

	2. *Original* owners manual for 1977 Rabbit..neat little book
	and NOT a copy                                     15.00

	3. Vacuum distributor for 1977 rabbit - an obscure part, and
	you dont want to know what VW wants for it :)      10.00



All offers considered!  

	Thanx
	Bruce W.
	Formerly: 1977 Rabbit
	Presently: 1967 Kombi
	Difference: 10 years and no ridiculous CIS fuel injection ;)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: seanw@mks.com (Sean Wilson)
Subject: CV joints 
Organization: Mortice Kern Systems Inc., Waterloo, Ontario, CANADA
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 21:11:30 GMT

Hi!

I'm thinking of buying a used GTi ('88 - '90), and everywhere I look in
this newsgroup I see these ominous words ...  CV JOINT!!!!

I have a number of questions:

1.  Why do VW CV joints seem to need replacing constantly?
2.  How long do they usually last?
3.  How much do they cost to replace?
4.  Are there any particular model years in which the CV joints were really
    bad?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Sean  
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Re: fuel injector test
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Distribution: rec
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 17:31:29 GMT

In article <PK16.92Sep13150601@mushroom.frc.ri.cmu.edu>, pk16@frc.ri.cmu.edu (Paul Keller) writes:
|> 
|> I am trying to test my fuel injectors ('83 rabbit with hard hot start
|> problems, rough uneven idle at 100K).  I finally was able to pull one
|> of them out, and then tried to follow the test in the Chilton manual
|> (I know, I should get the Bentley manual...).  They recommend turning
|> the ignition key to on, lifting the air sensor plate and dropping it
|> back down.  This should give a nice even spray pattern.  Well, nothing
|> happened.  Not even with repeated lifting and dropping of the plate.

The fuel pump must be running.

|> the same thing that Chilton says.  I guess this is to get the fuel
|> pump running (why not just turn the key?). 

Well, the fuel pump relay has an input from the ignition coil (like a tach)
and it requires a pulsing signal to indicate that the engine is running.
This is a fail-safe method to kill the fuel pump should a hose pop off
and the engine stops (otherwise fuel everywhere!).

|> When I was done with all of this, I went to put the injector back in
|> the engine, and noticed that some gas had beaded up around the end,
|> which sounds like it needs to be replaced, but I would like to do a
|> full test anyway.

Not sure what you mean here.  May only be condensation.

|> Lastly, when I put the injector back in the engine, it didn't really
|> snap into place like I had anticipated.  The engine runs fine (or at
|> least like it used to) but I am slightly concerned about how easy the
|> injector goes in and out now - is this normal?

You probably stressed the rubber grommet that holds it tight in the bakelite
screw-in holder.  Get some new rubber grommets.  I had one like this on my
'79 Scirocco and the injector would pop out occasionally and stall the engine
due to the large air bypass hole it leaves behind.


Mark
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Re: 195-60 HR-14s on an '84 GTI???
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 21:45:50 GMT

In article <1992Sep14.162150.9291@ll.mit.edu>, hemenway@ll.mit.edu writes:
|> I have an '84 GTI with tires on their way out.
|> I have stock (14") rims and would like to bump
|> the tires to 195-60s (from 185-60s).  
|> 
|> Have you seen it done? 

No, but i have run 205/60HR13 on 13x6 rims without an problem.

|> How is the wheelwell clearance?  

195-anything will have a total section width increase of 0.4 inches (0.2 inches on
inside and outside).  Check your current tires widest point to the strut in front (or
to the springs in back) for side clearance.   Also note that the 195s will have a 0.2
inch larger radius, which needs to be checked against the spring perch on the front 
struts. 

|> If OK, are snow cables a no-no?

Depends on the type used.  Use the above dimensions to get a feel.

|> If not OK, how are 195-55s?

195-55s will have the same section width and therefore the same interference problem
when using snow cables.  They are about 0.2 inches smaller in radius than your
current 185-60s.

Another note.  Using 195-60s will make your speedo/odo read about 2% slow (i.e. if
you drive with your speedo showing 60 mph you will actually be going about 62)
and 185-55s will make your speedo/odo read about 2% fast (i.e. if you drive with your
speedo showing 60 mph you will actually be driving 58).   The 195s will also reduce your
effective torque at the road (185-55s will increase it).
  
In general, unless you are driving in performance events there is not much to gain by
just going to wider rubber.  It will also increase your sensitivity to bumps.  You would
be better to compare tire brands and designs.  Some designs of 185s actually wider treads
than some 195s.  

Tire measurements.  The 195, 185, etc is the section width in millimeters (25.4 mm/inch).
The ratio number 60, 55, etc is the ratio of the section width to the tire height at the
design pressure (i.e. a 195-60 tire will have a height of 0.6 x 195 = 117)  Add the 
calculated height to half the wheel rim diameter and you get an effective radius.  The
actual rolling radius will depend on tire pressure and weight.  Notice that there is NO
correlation in these numbers to tread width!  Typically tread width will be about 90% of
the section width, but not always.  Also the desired effect is to have the tread width
about equal to the rim width (6 inches in the GTi case).  Too wide a tread bows cases the
inside tread block to lift up on hard corners.  Too little tread width causes the tire to
roll over onto the wall in hard corners.

The 185-60's are a good design for the GTi.  I would look for a good tread design and not
worry about going to a larger size.

regards,
Mark

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: hollen@megatek.UUCP (Dion Hollenbeck)
Subject: Re: HELP!! Life-or-death dilemma concerning fate of Sq'back!
Organization: Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 16:11:32 GMT

>>>>> On 10 Sep 92 00:51:29 GMT, justin@cybernet.cse.fau.edu (Justin Davila) said:


Justin>         Ladies and gentlemen, I am quite suddenly faced with a
Justin> most solemn decision.  It is my practice to take my VW to the
Justin> shop for a "professional" tune up about one time in four.  My
Justin> mechanic, a quite trustworthy fellow, has informed me that my
Justin> Type III has a loose cylinder.  The only way to find out if
Justin> it's repairable at all is to open her up (read:$350) and he
Justin> gives me a 50/50 chance of her being repairable after she's
Justin> opened up.  I know he loves VWs, and I wish he seemed more
Justin> optomistic.  He started talking about a Duster station wagon
Justin> of his that he could set me up with, but I told him I needed
Justin> some time.  At least I think it was a Duster; I was overcome
Justin> with grief.  I am a most poor college student, and we might as
Justin> well be talking about my entire life savings here.  I'm
Justin> completely distraught.

Justin>         I call upon you fellow brotherhood members for advice.
Justin> Please contact me as soon as possible, as the matter is rather
Justin> pressing.  And please save condolences until after the fact.
Justin> Thank you, kind people.

It can't get very bad at the worst.  If your body and tranny are worth
saving, you can get a new stock engine longblock for about $800.  If
your mechanic charges you more than $150 to R&R a long block, he is
ripping you off.  My mechanic can have my engine out of the car in 1/2
hour and a similar time to put it in.  The swap over of all the
peripherals (carb, generator, engine tin, etc.) should not take more
then a couple of hours.

Since you are a poor college student, you can get a rebuilt longblock
for about half that cost, and do the R&R yourself to save the money.  

Tell him to f**k the Duster.  Spend your money where it will be in a
car with some personality, get a new engine for your Sqbk.


-- 
Dion Hollenbeck       UUCP: {uunet, ucsd, sun}!megatek!hollen
                      INTERNET:            hollen@megatek.com
Megatek Corporation  9645 Scranton Rd.  San Diego, Ca.  92121
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: ari@leland.Stanford.EDU (Ari Ollikainen)
Subject: Re: Wanted 80-83 Vanagon
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 1992 18:53:21 GMT

In article <61930003@hpcvnb.CV.HP.COM> michaeln@hpcvnb.CV.HP.COM (Mike_Nason) writes:
>   Wanted 80 - 83 VANAGON
>Want low miles (under 100k),  Air cooled,  5 speed
					    ^^^^^^^

Gonna look a loooooonng time for this one! NO 5 speed equipped Vanagons 
were imported by Volkswagen of America into the US during these model years...

Past owner of many aircooled VWs and '81 Vanagon; cuurent owner
of two '85 Vanagons.
From: keys@starchild.ncsl.nist.gov (Lawrence B. Keys)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Battery/Charging System Problems?
Date: 14 Sep 92 19:05:19 GMT
Organization: National Institute of Standards & Technology


This morning when i went out to start my car it wouldn't start.  I got in
and the dome light was brown, and the radio would not come on.  Then at lunch
time (the same day) i went out to the car and the same conditions existed 
except the interior light was a little brighter.  Each time (this morning and
at lunch time) i was able to start the car immediately after connecting the 
jumper cables to another car battery.  This problem happened once about a month
ago with the same results, although until today the problem hadn't reoccured.


Any ideas what might be happening?



BTW, i have checked all the accessories, (i.e., lights etc.) to make sure
that nothing was left in the on position.
                                                   .              
                                                 /                
Larry                            __/    ______ /                  
keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov       /                \                 
                         _ _ _      __      _____  \------- ===   
            ---------- /  __ /    /  /    /__  __/            \   
         /            /  / ____  /  /       / /                |  
        |            / /___/  / /  /__   __/ /__              /   
        /_____       \______/  /_____ / /______/        --- ////   
             \_____           2 liter 16v       \_______/         
                                                                              
        Fahrvergnugen forever!
From: erudnick@claudius.pica.army.mil (Edward J. Rudnicki )
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Quantum Shop Manual
Date: 8 Sep 92 20:24:00 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: U.S. Army  Armament Research Development & Engineering Center, Dover NJ
Originator: erudnick@claudius


As one of Bambi's relatives, aka deer, aka giant forest rats,
sent my beloved turbodiesel Quantum into the automotive
hereafter, I have the following

FOR SALE: Original VW shop manual for Quantum, all models.
     Used, with usual grease stains, but 100 % complete and
     intact.

PRICE: $12.00 Postpaid


Ed Rudnicki     erudnick@pica.army.mil     All disclaimers apply
From: michaeln@hpcvnb.CV.HP.COM (Mike_Nason)
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 92 22:20:18 PDT
Subject: Wanted 80-83 Vanagon
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Corvallis, Oregon
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw

   I'm posting this for a friend !!!!! Please make responses to this post
directly to him. He can receive e-mail but can not post. Thanks, 

   Wanted 80 - 83 VANAGON
Want low miles (under 100k),  Air cooled,  5 speed

Looking for one with "VERY GOOD TO EXCELLENT"  INTERIOR/EXTERIOR.
Optional : Air Conditioning, AM-FM Stereo
 (Heads replaced on rebuilt)

Looking for one under $3500.00. 


Reply to:     stan_lake@hp6400.desk.hp.com


Thanks, Mike
From: kiviat@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Brian Kiviat)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: GTI heater Core recall
Date: 8 Sep 92 12:11:23 GMT
Reply-To: kiviat@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Brian Kiviat)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.autos.vw, hall@buffa.enet.dec.com (Dan Hall) writes:
>>Has anyone received notification that parts are available for
>>this heater core repair??
>of the heat exchanger recall came up.  The fellow I spoke to said that they are
>repairing cars in chronological order, older cars first, and that they are up
>to about 1987 so far.  He said I'd be getting called regarding my 1988 Jetta
>soon.

I brought my '86 GTI in last week and my heater core replaced. I didn't
have the recall letter with me. They asked no questions and just did
the work.
   O
   I\   Brian Kiviat (301)227-1833       Sometimes the truth is hidden,
   I \  kiviat@oasys.dt.navy.mil         Like a shadow in the darkness.
  /     David Taylor Model Basin                  -Master Po
   \___________________________
			     \\
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: PJF4081@cc.utah.edu (mr. wonderful)
Subject: buying a jetta
Summary: i am looking to buy an 87-88 jetta
Keywords: vw jetta
Organization: committee for the advancement of disgust
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 92 16:04:36 MDT
X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.10

i am planning on purchasing a used jetta in the next month. i have been
considering the 87-88 GL and GLI models. does anyone have any input or
suggestions regarding these? i would appreciate any. 

          PJF---->Biochem. grad student. "suffering *is* my game.		
	  	            WORK  :==  FUTURE
	"i am involved in the petty business of scientific research."
                         "feel free to feel me."
	 stream of consciousness writing is just like abstract art
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw