HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: feit@ERA.COM (Mark Feit)
Subject: Cure for fish-hungry powerhead?
Organization: Engineering Research Associates, Vienna, VA
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 14:55:39 GMT

I'm using an AquaClear 405 powerhead to run the RUGF in my 30, and
have recently been losing my Hets in the intake vent.  Every so often
I go away for the weekend and come home to discover that another of
the little devils has been sucked in.

Has anybody managed to find a way to keep the fish away without
blocking the intake?  I've tried turning the intake to odd angles
where the fish would be less likely to wander, but to no avail.  I
also thought about a small cage of some sort of screening, but steel
would rust and I haven't found a plastic substitute that will work.  I
figure if the little fellas can be kept about 2" away, they'll be
okay.

						- Mark

 ................................. .................................
: Mark A. Feit, Software Engineer : Internet: feit@era.com          :
: Engineering Research Associates : USENET: ...!uunet!era!feit      :
 ................................. .................................
 "Software development is 10% science, 25% ingenuity and 65% getting
	       the ingenuity to work with the science."
From: paxton@vax.oxford.ac.uk
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Cichlid, Symbranchidae Diets
Date: 5 Apr 92 16:46:58 GMT
Organization: Oxford University VAXcluster

I am A zoology postgrad at Oxford University, looking at the behavioural 
ecology of fish notably guppies and Cichlids. I am collecting data on diet of 
any (new world only) cichlid species for a phylogenetic analysis. Please note
I'm not interested in their diet in the aquaria, only in the wild e.g stomach
content analysis etc. However the following fishes I would like aquarium
 diet data on (quantitative if possible)

Aequidens pulcher
Teleocichla sps (Please identify species if possible)
Crenicichla sps
Mesonauta insignis and Mesonauta festivus (Please distinguish between species)
                      Thanks Charles Paxton 

P.S Also dietary data on swamp eels Symbranchidae would be useful
From: CCPHIL@UMCVMB.MISSOURI.EDU (Phil Leith)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Biological Filtration and water recycling
Date: 8 Apr 92 15:29:31 GMT

Anyone out there know if there's a test to check and see if you do indeed
have a healthy culture of the good, nitrifying bacteria in your tank?
I suppose ammonia tests - but I tend to supplement a couple of my tanks
with ammo-carb, especially late in my maintenence cycle.  I was reading
in AFM (april, yes, this time really april) an (interesting) article on
biological filtration and it's evolution, and it talked about competition
between the "good" bacteria and "other" bacteria in your system...

Does anyone reccomend periodically adding nitrifying bacteria "seed" mixes?

Also, the article details the cycle ammonia --> nitrite --> nitrate, which
I assume is the accomplished hobbyist's major reason for water changes.
The nitrates build up.  Algae and other plants eat nitrates, no?

Taking that into account, Ernesto may want to try keeping his old water in
the sunshine to get it well algefied - on the sides - and/or try to grow
fast growing aquatic plants such as duckweed in his old water, removing
excess growth as necessary (thus removing nitrates and other organics
the plants eat *with* them) and being careful not to get any duckweed
back in his tanks.  I do like the duckweed idea since it would tend to
keep algae growth down by shading it and prevent you from having to deal
with pea soup.  Also, duckweed is easy enough to scoop up and toss.

NOTE: Duckweed is nasty to deal with in tanks.  It gets EVERYWHERE, and
clogs filters.

Are there any OTHER ways of removing nitrates from water so that old water
can be used again?  Will the method I just outlined help significantly?

Will Aletha leave Darren?  Will Todd make up with Sandy?  Will Darren get his
revenge on Todd?  And just who is this Sandy person, anyway?  Oops.  Sorry.

!~~~~~~~~o~~~~~/~~~~~~~ Phil Leith, Meteorologist & Tropical Fish Hobbyist~~~~!
!        o    / \                                                             !
!         o /    \   /                                                        !
!          <  )   =-{         Bitnet     : CCPHIL@UMCVMB.BITNET               !
!           \    /   \        Internet   : CCPHIL@UMCVMB.MISSOURI.EDU         !
!             \ /                                                             !
!______________\______________________________________________________________!
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel)
Subject: Re: Novice questions...
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 23:51:42 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division
Keywords: newbie tenderfoot wet-behind-the-ears

In article <12410@umd5.umd.edu> mwerling@linus.umd.edu (Michael T. Werling) writes:
>Hi there.  I am a novice aquarium keeper and am looking to have a few 
>questions answered.  I have been following this group for a while, but
>have not seen a FAQ or an archive to download it from, so please excuse
>my simple questions.
>
>My setup:  A 10 gal freshwater tank with the basic starter kit they see
>	packaged at pet shops.  For fish I have a tiger barb, a red tailed
>	shark, and 3 swordtails (sorry, no latin). 
>        I do 20% water changes every week and a half
>	or so, depending on my schedule.  Filtration is by a corner bubbler
>	with floss and ammonia-carb.

	Why are you using ammonia-carb?  The bio filter should be taking
	care of the ammonia.  

>  All of this was what my local pet
>	store reccomended.
>
>After I get more experience I will be looking to make a more interesiting 
>environment, but right now a few basic questions:
>
>-Any thing I am forgetting?  I check ph regularly, but not ammonium/nitirate
> levels (whatever the chemicals are)  I am just checking b/c I want to start 
> out right, so I dont screw it up later (I have already killed a few fish
> just trying to get running).


I have found that these little corner filters work surprising well in small
aquariums.  Unless you live in an area where the pH changes a lot you do
not need to be checking it.  With the 20% water changes you are doing it would
take a big change in tap water pH to cause a change in the tank pH big enough
to harm the fish.  

ammonia-carb
------------

I would leave the same ammonia-carb in the filter and as it wears out the 
filter should be able to pick up the bio load.  If you keep using the
ammonia-carb the filter may never be able to cycle properly.

Do not change all the floss in the filter at once.  The floss contains a
bacteria colony required for bio filtration.  I use rocks with a layer of
floss above it.  The rocks stay clean and I can change the floss without
removing the bacteria which live on the rocks.
-- 
 | Howard Rebel          
 | hpcsos.col.hp.com
 | Phone: 719-590-5075   
 | Fax:   719-590-5976   
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria,sci.aquaria
From: tech@cs.ucf.edu (Tony Travaglini)
Subject: Re: Biological Filtration
Organization: University of Central Florida, Orlando
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 16:33:47 GMT

In article <1992Apr14.065358.16778@Veritas.COM> oleg@veritas.com (Oleg Kiselev) writes:
>
>Skimmers do not do very much to directly remove ammonia.  Some degassing is
>possible, but that's not what the skimmers' primary task is.  They foam up
>dissolved organic carbons (proteins, organic acids, etc.) before these 
>substances get broken down to ammonia.  
>

Say what? Can this be true. I have read quite a few books on this
subject and in every case ammonia was described as the first step in
the process. You don't have a reference that describes this in more
detail do you? I would love to read more about this.

Tony Travaglini
tech@ucf-cs.ucf.edu
From: steve@celia.UUCP (Steve Tyree)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: It must be that time of year-Anemone spawning?
Date: 13 Apr 92 18:31:11 GMT
Reply-To: celia!steve@usc.edu (Steve Tyree)
Organization: Rhythm & Hues, Inc., Hollywood

In article <13APR199211223909@venus.lerc.nasa.gov> fssmith@venus.lerc.nasa.gov (Greg Smith) writes:
>Last nigh a large anemone in my 125 gallon reef tank began releasing a milky
>substance into the water.  It released a stream of a white substance which would
>dissolve in the water after trickling down the anemone.  It did this about every
   I am not an expert on coral/anenome spawning, but its possible that your
  anenome is male. Some species are only one sex and require a member of the
  opposite sex for a completed spawning. So does anyone have a female anenome
  for Gregs male ?

 Steve Tyree - Practicing Reef Breeder
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: mar@athena.mit.edu (Mark A. Rosenstein)
Subject: Re: aquarium cooling
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1992 22:56:42 GMT

There was a long discussion about this last summer.  The conclusion I
reached is that the easiest, cheapest way to cool a tank is to buy a
window airconditioner and cool the entire room that the tank is in.  It
helps keep you cool too!
					-Mark
From: graue@bgsu.edu (Louis Graue)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: New Tank Setup
Date: 12 Apr 92 21:35:32 GMT
Organization: Bowling Green State University B.G., Oh.

I just purchased a 50 gal tank and wondered if anyone can explain what is 
this cycling in stuff.  I have the impression that all the fish I put
in it for the first several months  will die.  So far I have added 3 very
small swordtails and a couple of danios.  They seem happy and active.
How long do I have to wait for the bad stuff to happen?  I have an UGF and
a couple of Whisper 2 power filters.  I have not treated the water which
came through the tap from the water softner.  It is water from a well.

I am anxious  to get some more fish to add  but what I have read seems to
say that I should wait for from  a week to as much as 6 months.  
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: laurence@cco.caltech.edu (Dustin Lee Laurence)
Subject: Re: Highlights and quotes from original Audubon article
Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1992 21:36:21 GMT

fssmith@venus.lerc.nasa.gov (Greg Smith) writes:

>In article <1992Apr8.233358.14194@cco.caltech.edu>, laurence@cco.caltech.edu (Dustin Lee Laurence) writes...
>> 
>>If something has to expensive in this hobby, let it be animals and not
>>equipment.
>> 
>>-- 
>>Dustin Laurence            "Someone please stop me, before I net again."
>> 
>>laurence@alice.wonderland.caltech.edu

>You guys like to jump on bandwagons without seeing where they are going.  
>It appears that once you have jumped on them you are stuck for life.

[more of same]

If this has anything to do with what I posted, I'd be interested to
hear the explanation.  Most likely, though, you have simply jumped
to an unwarranted conclusion.

-- 
Dustin Laurence            "Someone please stop me, before I net again."

laurence@alice.wonderland.caltech.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: krogers@javelin.sim.es.com (K. Rogers)
Subject: Wandering anemones (was Re: [M] Hard coral spawning continued...)
Keywords: marine reef
Reply-To: krogers@javelin.sim.es.com
Organization: Evans & Sutherland Computer Corp., Salt Lake City, Utah
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1992 15:15:00 GMT

scotts@cbmvax.commodore.com (Scott Schaeffer) writes:

>Just a tip for those with wondering anemonies. I have a blue carpet
>anemonie which refused to stay in one spot even though I provided
>a hole in the live rock for his foot (I guess the live rock was too
>jagged). I sunk a glass into the crevace and inserted the anemonie
>foot. He has stayed there for 3 months now and is very happy. 

While I can't say I've had any wondering anemones I have had all kinds
of wandering anemone troubles ;^)  This is a new trick I'll try if my
current brainless wonder get wanderlust again.  Anything as stupid as
an anemone should not be mobile.
-- 
Keith Rogers
Evans & Sutherland Computer Corp.
krogers@javelin.sim.es.com
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria,sci.aquaria
From: mvp@hsv3.uucp (Mike Van Pelt)
Subject: Re: licensing (long) (was: Re: Recent live-rock boom...)
Organization: Video 7 + G2 = Headland Technology
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1992 21:40:43 GMT

In article <1992Apr5.151100.13639@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Paul A Prior) writes:
>In article <1992Apr4.112405.5660@llustig.palo-alto.ca.us> oleg@llustig.palo-alto.ca.us (Oleg Kiselev) writes:
>>It's unforgivable for Green Peace to hire people to kill baby seals so the
>>atrocity can be filmed for their propaganda.
>  ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>Oleg, I am very pissed off at the Audobon article, but I'm also a 
>Greenpeace supporter, and have been for several years.  I would like
>to see some documentation of the claim you make above.

I hadn't heard this before.  But it wouldn't surprise me that I missed
it; my eyes glaze over at the mention of GreenPeace ever since they
demanded an immediate end to all use of chlorine compounds.  That bit
of lunacy convinced me that the people are who make the decisions for
GreenPeace are a bunch of raving loonies who aren't worth my attention,
beyond self-defense if they get too close.

They did manage to kill a bunch of baby seals a number of years ago,
though.  Remember when they went out with red paint and painted the
baby seals so that their pelts would be useless?  The paint also
rendered the pelts useless as insulation for keeping the baby seals
from freezing to death on the ice.

Sure, that was an accident, and I'm sure the GreenPeacies were quite
horrified.  But it's typical -- a demand for drastic action now, before
any consideration of consequences, before any consideration of whether
the action even addresses the problem, regardless of the fact that the
demanded action might make the problem worse.

-- 
Mike Van Pelt            Paradimethylaminobenzaldehyde,
Headland Technology      Go soak your head in a good strong insecticide,
mvp@hsv3.lsil.com        Slosh it around and impregnate your brain
...ames!vsi1!hsv3!mvp    With dichlordiphenyltrichloroethane.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: erno@mrcnext.cso.uiuc.edu (Erno Pena)
Subject: How long will CO2 last?
Reply-To: erno@mrcnext.cso.uiuc.edu
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1992 22:51:12 GMT

I have a question for all the aquarista using CO2 on their plant tanks.

If I buy a 10 lb. bottle of CO2, approximately how long will it last? How can  
I tell when I should refill it?

--

E r n e s t o   F.   B.   P e n a
---------------------------------
erno@uiuc.edu   NeXTmail accepted
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: thk@sgi.com (Tom Kong)
Subject: Re: [M] Cheap Calcium?
Organization: Silicon Graphics Inc., Mountain View, CA
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1992 17:29:10 GMT

In article <1883@ra.nrl.navy.mil> tse@ra.nrl.navy.mil (Anthony Tse) writes:
>In article <1992Apr3.183902.20598@tin.monsanto.com> kncarp@nicsn1.monsanto.com (Kevin N. Carpenter) writes:
>>buffering to counter the pH of the limewater.  Furthermore, the addition
>>of Calcium Hydroxide (lime) is desirable over the addition of Calcium
>>Chloride since no non-calcium additions would be added to the water (Calcium
>>Chloride would cause an eventual buildup of chloride ions, much like the
>>buildup of sodium ions that would happen if I added sodium bicarb).
>
>I am not at all sure if this is the case.  Salt is Sodium Chloride, so
>what's wrong with calcium chloride.  Not to mention the quantity you
>are adding.  My problem with adding calcium chloride is with KH
>dropping, I am not sure is it with CaCl2 or do I just have too much
>stony & clams that uses carbonate up real quick.  I have to add
>1 table spoon of Sodium carbonate and 2 table spoon of Sodium
>Bicarbonate every week to keep my KH at around 8.
>
>-Anthony

I also add CaCl2 quite regularly.  I also have a falling KH problem.
If I don't add any SeaBuffer, my KH will fall to 4 in a few days
and remains stable at 4.  I have been slacking the last few weeks
and didn't add SeaBuffer.  My corals looked pretty sick.  Upon
checking KH and bumping it back to around 11, all my corals looked
very happy within a couple of days.

Is it true that CaCl2 drops KH?  I assume it can do so by

	CaCl2 + Na2CO3 = CaCO3 + 2NaCl ? 

and the calcium carbonate just precipitates out?  However, I
don't see any cloudiness from precipitation, and I always
add SeaBuffer and CaCl2 on different days of the week.

/tom
From: steve@celia.UUCP (Steve Tyree)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [M] Hard coral spawning continued...
Keywords: marine reef
Date: 16 Apr 92 18:34:54 GMT
Reply-To: celia!steve@usc.edu (Steve Tyree)
Organization: Rhythm & Hues, Inc., Hollywood

In article <30346@cbmvax.commodore.com> scotts@cbmvax.commodore.com (Scott Schaeffer) writes:
>The spawning was induced by a single 175w halide on for a single night.
>The water temperature started to edge up when the lighting was on
>all night so I stopped it until I can build a actinic moonlight setup
>or I get a chiller.

 A simple incandescent lamp or bulb might be all that is needed to simulate
moonlight. I use actinics to simulate twilight, this helps induce the reef
fish to spawn. For these corals to spawn on the same day every year, they
probably use only 2 sensed variables. Due to the fact that corals expand
quite far during daylight and they contract during nite time, they must be
able to sense quite accurately the length (cycle time) of the daylight period.
This combined with moonlight at night, is all that would be needed to spawn
around the same time every year. (also ability to sense trends as well).
 Now, you say that you have left a metal halide on all nite. When did the coral
spawn in relation to the metal halide moonlight. During the moonlight or the
nite after you stoped the moonlight or the second nite of full moonlight ?
ie - Was it a full moon, waning moon, waxing moon or new moon ?
 ps - a computer controlled incandescent "moonlite" would be a real handy
      device to have. :>

 Steve Tyree - Practicing Reef Breeder
From: botia@mekong_river (C. Loach)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Looking for my clutchmates
Date: 15 Apr 92 16:09:37 GMT

I'm looking for my cluchmates.  I was hatched about three
years ago upstream in the mekong at about the Cambodian border.

Most of my clutchmates were captured in a net and taken away,
which is why I'm trying to find them in rec.aquaria.

Thank you,

C. Loach
From: laurence@cco.caltech.edu (Dustin Lee Laurence)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Biological Filtration
Date: 16 Apr 92 00:41:52 GMT
Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena

tech@cs.ucf.edu (Tony Travaglini) writes:

>In article <1992Apr14.065358.16778@Veritas.COM> oleg@veritas.com (Oleg Kiselev) writes:
>>
>>Skimmers do not do very much to directly remove ammonia.  Some degassing is
>>possible, but that's not what the skimmers' primary task is.  They foam up
>>dissolved organic carbons (proteins, organic acids, etc.) before these 
>>substances get broken down to ammonia.  
>>

>Say what? Can this be true. I have read quite a few books on this
>subject and in every case ammonia was described as the first step in
>the process. You don't have a reference that describes this in more
>detail do you? I would love to read more about this.

I should let Oleg speak in his own defense, but I believe that what
he is talking about is the first part of the chain

(proteins, organic acids, etc.) --> ammonia --> nitrite --> nitrate

-- 
Dustin Laurence            "Someone please stop me, before I net again."

laurence@alice.wonderland.caltech.edu
From: dbs@hprnd.rose.hp.com (Dave Sheehy)
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1992 19:17:06 GMT
Subject: Re: Good (Expensive) Fish To Breed?
Organization: HP Roseville Networks Division
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria

>   I'm planning to construct a very large tank, and was wondering what fresh
>water fish would be good to breed in this. They must be fairly easy to breed
>in a large tank (preferably they almost always have to be bred in a large
>tank), fairly expensive, and have a fairly high demand for them in pet stores.
>Any good candidates along with general breeding information would be helpful.

Tropheus Duboisi. Their retail price is $30 and up. Their wholesale price is 
around $18. The breeding set ups I've seen are one large tank 55 gals and up
with 2 males and 10 females. The second male is dither for the primary male
and any fewer females and you'll have a bunch of dead females. They do require
clean water and I would suggest using a trickle filter. My understanding is
that once these criteria are met they are not hard to produce.

Dave Sheehy
----------
From: thomasg@epx.hscs.umn.edu (Thomas Gasser)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: I want to build a wet dry
Date: 14 Apr 92 20:13:57 GMT
Organization: Department of Neurosurgery, University of Minnesota

I have a spare 10 gallon tank that I would like to convert to a Wet/Dry 
filter for my 130 gallon reef tank.  If someone has plans for such a project
I would love to get a copy.  The ones I seen don't seem to complex.



*********************************************************************
*  Thomas D. Gasser                                                 *
*  Department of Neurosurgery                *******     ******     *
*  University of Minnesota                    ***  *** *** ***      *
*  (612) 624-4427                             ***   *****  ***      *
*  E-Mail:  THOMASG@EPX.HSCS.UMN.EDU         *****        *****     *
*                                                                   *
*********************************************************************
From: pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Paul A Prior)
Subject: Re: [M] Cheap Calcium?
Organization: The Ohio State University
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1992 16:17:27 GMT

In article <1992Apr10.113949.18678@stsci.edu> wissler@stsci.edu (Steven Wissler,G12,4899,ADD.1-29-91) writes:
>	I think I've been following this thread fiarly closely. I don't
>remember seeing anyone mention the ppm levels of calcium in seawater.
>Anybody know this?
>

400 ppm is the often quoted figure, I believe.  Close enough...

-- 
--------pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu----(614) 297-8474----------------
Paul A. Prior    Ban anchors, not reef tanks   "With friends like this,   
2nd year medical student		          who needs anemones?"
The Ohio State U. College of Medicine   Tobacco Kills- Please don't smoke!
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: erno@mrcnext.cso.uiuc.edu (Erno Pena)
Subject: Add a DIY section to the FAQs...
Reply-To: erno@mrcnext.cso.uiuc.edu
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1992 08:12:13 GMT

I think it would be a good idea to add a section to the FAQ that contains Do  
It Yourself plans for building various aquarium equipment, from trickle  
filters to tanks themselves. I'm sure there is already a good supply of DIY  
plans out here, and it might be good to make them available to everyone.

The only problem is the diagramability in ASCII. Good textual explanations  
need to be the bulk of the entries, with ASCII diagrams suplementing them.

What do you think?

--

E r n e s t o   F.   B.   P e n a      |     "Volite Magis,
................................      |      Facite Magis,
erno@uiuc.edu   NeXTmail accepted      |      Estote Magis."
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: aharris@javelin.sim.es.com (Alan Harris)
Subject: Looking for FAQ file
Keywords: FAQ
Reply-To: aharris@javelin.sim.es.com
Organization: Evans & Sutherland Computer Corp., Salt Lake City, Utah
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 21:09:25 GMT

Will someone out there do me a favor and E-mail a recent copy of the FAQ
file?  I don't want to wait untill next month for the posting.  I've tried
to get it from the FTP site but something is fouled up and I can't get it all.
I mentioned this in my last posting and have since recieved E-mail from
others who tried the FTP site and got partial copies too.  I will E-mail 
copies to others who want the FAQ.     

                                           thanks much

                                           Alan Harris

                aharris@javelin.sim.es.com

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria