HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jim.engle@cccbbs.UUCP (Jim Engle) 
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles.dirt
Subject: RIDING AREAS
Date: 16 Nov 92 08:00:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Cincinnati Computer Connection BBS - Cincinnati, OH - 513-752-8248
Reply-To: jim.engle@cccbbs.UUCP (Jim Engle) 

For those looking for riding areas here's some in southeastern Ohio that
might not be too far away.

Richland Furnace State Park - trail length 9 miles.
Perry State Forest - trail length 13 miles.
Pike State Forest - trail length 15 miles.

Also Wayne National Forest - trail length "40 miles hi-standard trails
                                           80 miles bootleg trails"

Two contacts for Wayne N.F. are:  Athens Ranger District
                                  (614) 592-6644
                            and   Ironton Ranger District
                                  (614) 532-3223

This past weekend I went out to Wayne.  Even with the 270 mile round
trip from Cincinnati, it was definitely worth the trip.
To get more info on the state areas, contact Ohio Dept. of Nat.
Resources in Columbus.  They were more than willing to provide me with
all the info I needed.  I've had the best luck getting info when I
contact a State agency.
One other area of interest may be Daniel Boone National Forest in Ky.
Jim
    
Organization: Senior, Electrical and Computer Engineering, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles.dirt
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 11:01:30 -0500 
From: "Russell E. Hoffman, II" <rh2y+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: Homebrew Voltage Regulator?

Excerpts from netnews.rec.motorcycles.dirt: 18-Nov-92 Re: Homebrew
Voltage Regula.. by David Donald@dvinci.USas 
> Lemme see... voltage regulators... well, I know of some three - port ones 
> (I believe it's a standard TO - 220 package) that come in various
sizes... like
> +5 V, -5 V, +7 V, -7V, etc, etc... While I have never even _thought_
of trying
> this before, it seems to me you could find the applicable sized regulator, 
> and merely solder it in line to the bulb, and your problems should be
over... 
> you could even silicon up the final connection for more strength and
waterproof
> ing... 

Well, using a 78xx series three-terminal regulator would work provided
that the cycle ALWAYS outputs more than say 15 volts or so. The 78xx
series (I assume these are the regulators you were thinkng of) need to
have the input voltage a few volts above their respective output
voltage. Another thing to consider is that the 78xx series regulators
only handle 1 amp of current. A headlight will consume a bit more than
that, though there are LM devices that can handle up to 5 amps of
current. Not sure if even that's enough, but it may be. Here's the trick
then... somebody (It won't be me, cuz my bike's 220 miles away from here
*sniff*) take a volt meter and measure the unregulated voltage coming
out of the bike. Probably be a good idea to disconnect the headlight and
measure the voltage there. Then, put an amp-meter in series with the
headlight and measure the current going into the headlight when it's on.
Post your measurements to the net, and then we can probably come up with
a better idea of a particular direction to go in as far as coming up
with a replacement regulator. 


Russell Hoffman                 | 1970 Split-Bumper Camaro SS
rh2y+@andrew.cmu.edu            | 406 Small Block   13.5:1 CR 
Carnegie Mellon University      | Tunnel Ram 2x650cfm 4bbl    STREET DRIVEN
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

-rwx        1 joe_user                   806 May  1 23:38 file

r - indicates you can look at the file
w - indicates file can be hosed
x - indicates file contains bugs

Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles.dirt
From: donald@dvinci.USask.Ca (David Donald)
Subject: Re: Homebrew Voltage Regulator?
Organization: University of Saskatchewan
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 03:19:50 GMT

eastman@bnr.ca (Gordon Eastman) writes:

>Bulbs don't last long in my KDX powered bike. I have to install new ones
>before each enduro to pass inspection.

>The recent thread on KDX200 mods mentioned that the '92 KDX200 has a
>voltage regulator to prevent this problem. So I called the local Kawasaki
>dealer. $90 for the part! And he said it with a straight face :-).

>I suspect that it is $2 of components in a waterproof package. Anyone with
>an electronics background know how to roll your own? Or know of a more
>reasonably priced unit from a different motorcycle?

>Gordon   1990 KX200

Lemme see... voltage regulators... well, I know of some three - port ones 
(I believe it's a standard TO - 220 package) that come in various sizes... like
+5 V, -5 V, +7 V, -7V, etc, etc... While I have never even _thought_ of trying
this before, it seems to me you could find the applicable sized regulator, 
and merely solder it in line to the bulb, and your problems should be over... 
you could even silicon up the final connection for more strength and waterproof
ing... 

Or I could be wrong on this.  I am assuming that the KDX headlight uses DC power
right?... 

George?  Help me, I am digging a hole here.  :)

Dave
-- 
| donald@dvinci.usask.ca		|  "Are you going to kill me now,    | 
| Communications Systems Research Group | Snake?"  "Nope, I'm too tired. And |
| University of Saskatchewan		| the name is Plissken." - Kurt      |
| Saskatoon, Canada                     | Russell/Escape from New York, 1981 |
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles.dirt
From: cooper@kdx200.enet.dec.com (Thats DOCTOR KDX200 to YOU !)
Subject: Repost - KDX200 Exhaust hop up - Poor mans Aftermarket silencer
Reply-To: cooper@kdx200.enet.dec.com ()
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 18:21:19 GMT


Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles.dirt
From: cooper@kdx200.enet.dec.com (Thats DOCTOR KDX200 to YOU Bub....)
Subject:   KDX200 Exhaust hop up - Poor mans Aftermarket silencer
Reply-To: cooper@kdx200.enet.dec.com ()
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
<92316.120316JJS158@psuvm.psu.edu>
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 22:31:21 GMT


This is especially for MERFMAN, but there are some other KDX200
riders out there who might get off on this.

This an article a buddy of mine wrote about KDX200 silencers...
I haven't tried this, but I *can* say that the noise level is not 
impacted at all...Although my Answer S/A Pro is quieter than stock
ANY way, so...

Anyway, for my fellow KDX200 riders, check this out, and MAKE SURE 
you ditch the airbox lid in favor of a 89KX125 lid...There is 3
HP to be had there believe it or not!!

	The stock silencer can be taken apart into three sections:

	1) The front section (closest to the motor) has the baffles
	2) The middle section is where the packing is located
	3) The rear section is just a reducer

Take the silencer apart (probably needs to be repacked anyway) I use Answer
silencer packing, the kit costs about $11.00.  Make sure you push the center
section towards the back of the silencer when removing it, it's kind of
tricky.  Use a pipe or some other round object that fits into the silencer
and push out the center section using a hammer to hit whatever your using to
push the section.  Back to the baffle section.  When you remove this section
you will see the main pipe come through a plate into a chamber area, there
will be a second plate with two exit tubes leading to the middle of the
silencer
Cut the second plate out by cutting the main tube after it passes through the
the first plate.  This eliminates the baffle.  Repack the center section and
bolt it all back together.  You will only use about 1/3 of the packing in
the kit.  Performance wise I was amazed with the difference!! It's the poor 
mans aftermarket silencer....
From: edh@wheeler.unr.edu (Ed Hackett)
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles.dirt
Subject: Re: Winter Riding Questions
Date: 16 Nov 92 19:43:18 GMT
Reply-To: edh@wheeler.unr.edu (Ed Hackett)
Organization: Desert Research Institute, University of Nevada

In article <1992Nov13.154738.3734@gandalf.ca> wardman@gandalf.ca (Russel Wardman) writes:


>I don't get it. Suck what to see what?

The reference is to seeing if a jet change has done what you
wanted.  Despite all the calculations and theory, the only way to
tell is to run the car and bike and see if it works.  My thought
here was for Jeff to run the bike and actually see if he had any
problems.

>What you say makes sense, but the icing that I have had trouble with
>was in the bowl, on the float needle. This of course resulted in flooding
>If the icing is on the slide or the venturi, then you're right, fuel
>change won't help.

I think your problem is from condensation.  You will still get some
condensation in the air space in the bowls even if the tank is kept
full.  There is also the chance that if you do form some ice on the
needle, it melts off into the bowl after you shut the engine down.

Av gas will not help with that problem either.  Another post
mentioned the increased vapor pressure of Av gas helping to
eliminate icing.  That would be a factor if the temperature was
just at the point of freezing due to the venturi effect.  If the
venturi effect is enough to drop the temp below freezing anyway,
the gas will have no effect.

>Since you're involved in aviation, perhaps you (or anyone else) can 
>tell me more about
>av gas. I've heard of 106 av gas, but someone told me that the octane
>rating system for this is different than for regular gas and that it in fact
>is lower octane than good pump gas. Truth or bullshit?

The octane rating is the same, the numbers are reported
differently.  Octane is rated by the research and motor methods.
The research method is based on the formulation of the fuel, motor
octane is determined in a test engine with a variable compression
ratio.

The octane of aviation fuel is  listed as 80/87, 100/115, and
115/145, and are commomly called 80, 100, and 115 octane.  The
lower number is the motor number, the higher is the research
octane.  The numbers listed on gas pumps for cars are an average of
the two.  The corresponding "pump" octane for the aviation fuel
would then be:  83.5, 107.5, and 130.   In this case, yes, 80
octane Av gas has a lower octane than 87 "pump" unleaded.

100LL (100/115 Low Lead) aviation fuel still contains over 2 grams
of lead per gallon. The 50/50 mix used by some will give you a fuel
with 10 times the lead content of current leaded regular.  Octane
is essentially additive, so that same mix, using 88 octane regular
will give you a leaded, 97 octane mix, just the ticket for high
compression engines that need lead for wear protection.

 Ed Hackett   edh@wheeler.wrc.unr.edu     The Desert Research Institute 
 DoD #0200  WMTC  BMWRA  DIOC             Reno, Nevada   (702) 673-7380   
 KotLS  KtoLE  DotD #0003            I'm not really a chemist, I'm just one of
 900SS  K100RS  501 CAMEL            them motorsickle sonsabitches.  __=o&o>__
From: bobr@gold.gvg.tek.com (Bob Rhodes)
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles.dirt
Subject: Re: KDX200 Exhaust hop up - Poor mans Aftermarket silencer
Date: 19 Nov 92 20:56:42 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Grass Valley Group, Grass Valley, CA

In article <2937@monarch.array.com> kenm@array.com (Ken Murphy) writes:
>Thomas Rick Ramsey (ramz@beta.lanl.gov) wrote:
>: cooper@kdx200.enet.dec.com writes:

WRT packing in the silencer of KDX200:  I have a '90.  It has packing.  It
looks like a large wool donut that slides over the perforated tube on
the spark arrestor/silencer section (middle element) of the silencer
assembly.

I have the Kawasaki shop manual for the '89 KDX200, & the supplement for
the '90 model.  The manual & supplement have exploded views of the
silencer, & both contain the packing I described.

I have bought fiberglass insulation for wrapping pipes, & use this when
I clean the silencer, held in place with a small piece of masking tape.
I was given this suggestion by a friend who races enduro & hare
scrambles, & repacks his silencer frequently.

My KDX200 has 3000 miles on it.  I use it for trail riding, enduros, &
the past 2 years in the Colorado 500, where I ride it at elevations over
14k feet.  The bike performs well, so I'm comfortable with how I'm servicing
the silencer.

YOU NEED TO CLEAN & REPACK YOUR SILENCER!  Buy the packing from Kawasaki,
an after-market supplier, or do what I did.  If you don't clean the
silencer, oil & carbon will build up, & your performance will decrease
through increased back-pressure.  To make power, you want as little
restriction going in, & going out as is practical.  The bike can be 
kept quiet, & still make good power.

Bob
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles.dirt
From: cooper@kdx200.enet.dec.com ()
Subject: Re: porting and rings...
Keywords: ring life
Reply-To: cooper@kdx200.enet.dec.com ()
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 20:54:08 GMT


>Al, please elaborate on what porting has to do with ring life...Inquiring 
>minds want to know.

Simply put, the bigger the holes are in your cylinder wall, the harder the ring
has to work to stay "sprung" against the cylinder wall.  There is also  more
"chatter" as the ring passes over an enlarged opening.

RE: Silencers: Cleaning, repackings, sucking...
:)

I clean mine out everytime I do my air filter.  After all, that sorta makes 
sense eh ??  Oil and gas laden fumes clog up stuff as fast (or faster) than
a little dust and filter oil eh??

jc



+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+
                    Jeff Cooper - Cooper@KDX200.enet.dec.com
          Digital Equipment Corporation - Colorado Springs, Colorado

                            Thats *DOCTOR* KDX200
                                   To YOU!!

President - DIGITAL Equipment Corp. Trail Riders Assn. (DECtrail)
Member -    Rocky Mountain Enduro Circuit - AMA - MIDI Rack Puke

       No one cares about my stupid views and opinions, so why bother??
+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+
From: frampton@skitzo.dseg.ti.com
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles.dirt
Subject: Hey! Who ate my used silencer packing!?!?
Date: 19 Nov 92 12:59:37 CDT
Organization: Texas Instruments Component Test Facility

>>	I have a 87 KDX200.  I have never re-packed the exhaust, and not
>>shure if the previious owner has.  I plan on looking into it asaFp (perhapse
>>this evening).
> 
> Repack it!!  Keep 'em repacked or your machine will run like dog doo-keys
> I bet you could WRING the spooge out of the packing.
> 
> Someone else mentioned that he didn't think he could use normal fiberglass
> insulation for repacking his exhaust...Said he didn't think he could get enough
> in there.  
> 
> Use some bailing wire and wrap it tight!!  I don't think I've ever used stock
> of Answer repack stuff...(Same thing anyway).

  It works ok. But I don't know if its any better than what comes out of 
  your attic.  I will mention that I experimented with the density of the
  packing on the last maintenance job.  The old packing didn't seem to
  absorb much of the grime and choked up quickly.  This time I tried packing
  it a little looser but I didn't get the HP rush like I did when packing
  it dense.  Was not a quiet either.  I rather hear "ziiiiippp" instead of
  "BRAAAAAPPP". For some reason I like to relate suppression with performance.
  Not quite stealthy enough for Merf dude since I like to intimidate my leader
  if I can get close to him.  Funny I should mention this.  Mike probably
  doesn't remember cracking the throttle open with the clutch in while riding
  behind me at Dowdy.  Yeah, I heard you back there!  Or did you just miss a
  gear? %-)  Come on, fess up. Its got to happen to everyone once in a 
  while.?.? :-)  Bout that time for us to get out somewhere again?

  Since I couldn't make it to the MX park last weekend due to homework I 
  didn't see any point in starting the maintenance, but tonight I think
  I'll repack it again and make it right.  

  BTW, George...  No disrespect but I chickened out on the Dextron II.  I
  bought the BelRay 80W instead.  Would be my luck that my zook has some
  wierd volatile seal composure that will melt if you look at it wrong.
_________________________________________________________________________
mark frampton....O/30 NOVICE   |    You can ride as long as you are alive,
X-Country?!? What next?!?      |      as long as you can take the pain.
frampton@skitzo.dseg.ti.com    |    If you'll try it, I'll try next. NOT!
                               |
From: ryang@drycas.club.cc.cmu.edu (Robert H. Yang)
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles.dirt
Subject: Top End Job Break-In (/)
Date: 23 Nov 92 20:54:45 -0500
Reply-To: ryang@drycas.club.cc.cmu.edu
Organization:  

Hi,

	Please bear with me, I'm kinda new to 2-strokes... :-)

	In keeping with the "Project Winter : Top End Job" theme,
I was wondering what kind of break-in is usually required after replacing the
rings and/or piston.

	I noticed in the Kaw manual for the KDX a break-in procedure for a
new bike, but no recommendations for after a top-end job.  It also said
to replace spark plug, transmission oil, and *rings* after the initial
break-in period.  Interesting.

	When I put a Wiseco kit in my XT, I took the Clymer's recommendation
of low-to-medium speeds for 300 miles, then change oil & filter.  I know,
I know, that's a 4-stroke street bike...

	I've heard you mostly have to do this kind of thing every season
or so.  Is that the piston and rings or just the rings ?

	Sorry to be such a pain...

Rob
--
Rob Yang (Pittsburgh, PA, U.S.A) RYANG@DRYCAS.CLUB.CC.CMU.EDU
'92 CBR600F2 (For Sale, Maybe)    AMA 642916 DoD 0593 FSSNOC 1721
'79 XT500 (The Bitch)        '90 Plymouth Laser RS (Sweetie)
                     '87 KDX200 (Name That Bike)
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles.dirt
From: baxter@epcot.spdc.ti.com (Mike Baxter)
Subject: Re: Parts sticker shock
Organization: TI Semiconductor Process and Design Center
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1992 04:48:04 GMT

In article <1992Nov20.093619.812@skitzo.dseg.ti.com> frampton@skitzo.dseg.ti.com writes:
>> Well, I lobe my CR-500 red rocket but, that new 250 YZ shure looks nice.
>> A top end job for that one ONLY costs $120 bucks.  What a deal.
>  
>  And the 1st one is free along with new rubbers and MX lesson from RJ
>  himself.  YZs and RMs seem to be having a battle of the "I'll even throw
>  in a ??????".  I love the free world.

All that means Mark is that they are not going to haggle with you on the price.
Last year a '92 YZ250 could be had at Forest Lane Yamaha for $4000 out the door.
The best deal that they will give you this year is $4400 out the door.  Screw
that extra crap, I want the bike.  

A new top-end on my CR250 only cost ~$120 too.  It's just all that metal in a
CR500 that cost so much. :-)


>_________________________________________________________________________
>mark frampton....O/30 NOVICE   |    You can ride as long as you are alive,
>X-Country?!? What next?!?      |      as long as you can take the pain.
>frampton@skitzo.dseg.ti.com    |    If you'll try it, I'll try next. NOT!
>                               |  
>



_____________________________________________________________________________
DoD #359       Current bike '91  CR250 |         Mike Baxter   
AMA #607249    Current num....061      |              
TCCRA  #761 or P61 for 1993            |      baxter@spdc.ti.com
250cc Expert or Pro                    |
Texas Cross-Country racing series      |   Texas Instruments, Dallas Tx.   
50 miles of off-road Hell              |  
_______________________________________|_____________________________________
Disclaimer:  The opinions expressed above are my very own, becuase 
             if they were worth anything TI would patent them.
From: kenm@array.com (Ken Murphy)
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles.dirt
Subject: Re: KDX exhaust
Date: 23 Nov 92 14:50:05 GMT
Organization: Array Microsystems, Colorado Springs, CO. USA
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]

bored-out-of-my-skull (clane@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu) wrote:
: 
: I just talked to a sales rep and he said that the stock KDX 87 pipe didnt
: have fiberglass.......  is this true or should I just buy the packing ot
: should i check mine out first

The '87 had the 'boat anchor 11 lb' silencer.  Big, black, quiet, power 
eating silencer.  Toss and replace with an Answer SA Pro.  The dealer
is right.  The stocker is not repackable. 


  O                
 <M> MerfMan 
_/ \_
From: mark@lenti.med.umn.edu (Mark Olson (CDC))
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles.dirt
Subject: voltage regulators
Date: 18 Nov 92 15:55:21 GMT
Article-I.D.: news2.1992Nov18.155521.28437
Organization: University of Minnesota


   Most of the moto voltage regulators I've seen are the shunt variety.  They
use SCR's to shunt the generator voltage to ground when it reaches a certain
voltage (15-16 volts?).  If the load is enough so the voltage doesn't reach
this value, no current is shunted away.  I suppose the virtue of this 
arrangement is in lower complexity of the alternator (you don't need a
rotating field and the brushes that go with it), and a simpler circuit 
for regulation.  The downside is that the alternator is always loaded at
it's maximum output, thus taking extra horsepower.
  
   I would think that one could make a regulator circuit using 3 scr's, 
3 rectifier diodes, 3 zener diodes, and some resistors/capacitors.  Of
course, it'd have to be small, heatsinked, and vibration-proof.  You'd
probably spend close to the amount you'd pay for one made for the bike...
  
IMHO, of course.
  
mark olson
mark@lenti.med.umn.edu
From: kenm@array.com (Ken Murphy)
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles.dirt
Subject: Re: Oil and clutches
Date: 18 Nov 92 14:30:06 GMT
Organization: Array Microsystems, Colorado Springs, CO. USA
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]

Ken Ferguson (Kenneth_Ferguson@rand.org) wrote:
: 
:         Ken Ferguson Campione Raceing


Ken, wasn't that you in the latest issue of American Motorcyclist? 
If so, congratulations.  If not, sorry.

Merf
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles.dirt
From: bored-out-of-my-skull <clane@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: KDX exhaust
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 18:25:56 GMT


I just talked to a sales rep and he said that the stock KDX 87 pipe didnt
have fiberglass.......  is this true or should I just buy the packing ot
should i check mine out first

thanxs

later               Sponsered by: Chuck's Bar, Barbeque, Bed and Breakfast
chuck!                              "Breakfast is FREE at my restaurant!"