HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: 12 point bolt heads on Ford
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 20:30:19 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 15/32" is 11.9+ mm, so try a 12mm 12-pt socket.
-- 
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From: collin@angelo.amd.com (Collin K. Ong)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: What's a good one??? was Re: CLUB Story
Date: 3 Sep 92 18:51:25 GMT
Organization: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc.

little_re@lrc.edu writes:

>    Allright, so what is the best way to deter a thief??  I've considered
>a Club-type device, but like someone said earlier, just cut the steering
>wheel.  I've considered an alarm, but don't have the money right now.  
>Is there a good, inexpensive way to make a thief look at somebody else's
>car??

How about Loctronics?  I bought this from my dealer for ~$200 but have 
since learned that you can get an alarm installer to put it in for under
$20. :(  This is a electronic key that you have to put into a slot before
the ignition key will start the car.  Its a bit of a pain but not bad.
Any comments on its effectiveness or if it can be beaten?
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: cobb@betsy.mc.ti.com (Chip Cobb)
Subject:  L O U D   Tires
Originator: cobb@betsy.mc.ti.com
Organization: Texas Instruments / Attleboro Mass / USA
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 13:57:39 GMT



I have a 1990 Buick Regal(30K mi) that I'm experiencing very excessive tire noise
at almost any speed.  The noise sounds like I'm running on snow tires.  The tires
were rotated at 15k miles and now have 30k mi(still have plenty of tread).

The service manager of the dealer said the noise is a result of not enough tire
rotation.  He said the tires should be rotated 5-8k miles to avoid problems such
as this.

Does this make sense??

Regards,
Chip
-- 
.......................................................
Chip Cobb / cobb@betsy.mc.ti.com / TI / Attleboro MA USA
.......................................................
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: koziarzw@lonex.rl.af.mil (Walter Koziarz)
Subject: Re: 12 point bolt head on Ford
Organization: RL
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 92 18:54:26 GMT

In article <1992Aug28.190804.16666@infonode.ingr.com> brantley@infonode.ingr.com (Dwight D. Brantley) writes:

>Thanks for all the speedy replies to my question.  I went back to Sears
>at lunch and sure enough found a 12 point metric socket that should fit.
>I've just never seen a bolt with 12 points on it before, but I usually
>only work on cars that are pre-1980 vintage.  Now I remember why!

nope, that won't save you from 12-pt bolt-heads...  the wheelbearing retainers
on 1974 Dodge Ramchargers, W150s and W250s (with Dana 44FBJ axle) and NP-203
transfercase have 12-pt heads.  these bolts [seem to have] originated it
the aerospace industry and [appear to] possess great toughness...  nothing
new or exotic or even exciting about them...

Walt K.
From: fortmiller@danger.enet.dec.com (Ed Fortmiller)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Subaru EA81/EA82 engines
Date: 21 Aug 92 18:06:43 GMT
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation

>I'd go for the EA81 engine.  In 84 they made a turbo version.  Wouldn't that
>be fun?  *grin*
> 
>Sean

I have a 1982 with about 210000 miles on it and the following are the only
engine related parts that I have changed.

	Water pump
	Oil pump seals twice
	Front crank seal
	Oil pressure sending unit
	Some emission part

	I still have the orginal Y-pipe which amazes me given all the problems
	people have had with them.

A close friend who is a Subaru shop foreman tells me to avoid
the '85 (especially) and the '86 models as '85 was the first year of the OHC.
---
Ed Fortmiller			| fortmiller@danger.enet.dec.com
Digital Equipment Corporation	| --or-- fortmiller%danger.enet@decwrl.dec.com
60 Codman Hill Road, BXB2-2/E6	| --or-- fortmiller%danger.enet@crl.dec.com
Boxboro, MA 01719-1708		| --or-- ...!decwrl!danger.dec.com!fortmiller
Phone: (508) 264-5076		| --or-- Edward.Fortmiller@bxb.mts.dec.com
FAX:   (508) 264-5014		|			
DTN:         293-5076		|
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Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rakoczynskij@gtephx.UUCP (Jurek Rakoczynski)
Subject: Re: Pre-luber summary & Oil Changes
Organization: AG Communication Systems, Phoenix, Arizona
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 16:45:09 GMT


In article <15200042@hpspdla.spd.HP.COM>, paulw@hpspdla.spd.HP.COM (Paul Welch) writes:
[summary and various other parts deleted]
> 
> Some offered info about purchasing one of these pumps.  Thanks, but 
> for $560 I'll have to come up with another idea.  A private response
> suggested an aux. pressure vessel that is filled with pressurized
> oil while the motor runs.  It holds this pressure until the motor is 
> re-started; thus no pump and pump motor are required.  Actually
> sounds like a viable idea to me.

Moroso and other aftermarket companies sell this "pressure vessel"
that you tee into an oil feed line.  It used to even out pressure
changes or oil feed loss during hard cornering.  Some aftermarket
companies expand this idea to add a small orfice to slowly bled oil
after engine shutdown to "cool the turbo".  Others add a valve in the
oil line (either manual or electric, with various control options) to
store idle oil pressure until you need it a startup.

> that you let the engine idle for 20 to 30 seconds after parking the
> car before you shut the engine off, to allow the turbo to cool.
> I'd be interested to know if this is a theory or if they have 
> ACTUAL DATA that shows some benefit here (I'm skeptical as to 
> how well one could cool a turbo with engine oil that is already plenty
> hot).  But, if you could circulate that oil for more like 5 minutes,
> especially if your not continuing to add heat with the engine running,
> now it starts to make sense.  The benefit of having this system in

The 20-30 sec is to have the lower exhaust temp at idle cool the
turbo, not just the oil cool the bearings.

> is $560.  Obviously the latter choice also includes a small motor,
> switches, etc., but what are my choices for oil pumps if I want to 
> try to build my own pre-oiler?  I need something that won't leak, 
> and I would guess that when they build the $25 version that sits in
> the oil bath, they don't take the time to seal it perfectly.
> Any pump and motor suggestions ?????

Only some minimum guidelines (IMHO) to follow:
Oil flow = 1 gal/min
Oil pressure = 10 psi

This should be all you need for a preluber.
-- 
Jurek Rakoczynski, AG Communication Systems, POB 52179, Phoenix, AZ. 85072
UUCP: ...!{ncar!noao!enuucp | att}!gtephx!rakoczynskij  Voice: +1 602 581 4867
Inet: gtephx!rakoczynskij@enuucp.eas.asu.edu              Fax: +1 602 582 7111
Inet: /DD.UN=J.RAKOCZYNSKI/O=GTE/PRMD=GTEMAIL/ADMD=TELEMAIL/C=US/@sprint.com
From: bernardr@tekig6.PEN.TEK.COM (Bernard J Rate)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: aftermarket cams and headers
Keywords: emissions
Date: 28 Aug 92 00:03:01 GMT

I would like to get a little more power out of my '91 Ford F-150 truck which is powered by a 6-cyl inline 4.9 litre engine. Two possibilities are replacing the camshaft (e.g, Iskenderian) and exhaust headers (e.g, Hooker). My question is, will the truck fail emissions testing if I do either or both of these? I expect to remain here in Oregon, where I currently do not have to have it tested at all,but conscience dictates that I cannot be a worse polluter than Ford intended.
Any suggestions will be appreciated!
From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: 84 BMW 318i Fuse Box
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1992 09:50:27 -0500

 SD> I just recently purchased an 84 318i. Unfortunately, I don't have an 
 SD> owner's
 SD> manual. I'm planning on ordering one from the Local BMW dealership.
 SD> In the meantime, can anyone tell me what fuses do what?

I'm out of my element here, but did you look inside the fuse box cover? German
cars usually have a chart there that tells which consumers are on which fuse.

 SD> Any help would be useful. When I got the car, the speedometer wasn't 
 SD> working.
 SD> I noticed it go up to 20 once, and hasn't worked since. I'm hoping that 
 SD> it
 SD> is either a blown fuse or a minor electrical problem. The previous 
 SD> owner
 SD> may have disconnected a wire when he removed his stereo system.

Are you sure it has an electronic speedometer? If not, it would be a problem
with the instrument, cable, or speedo drive in the transmission.
From: bphdarcy@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (SJ Roc D'Arcy, MBP)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Windshield chip repair ???
Date: 1 Sep 92 12:18:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <BtvC9n.L93@encore.com>, mpalmer@encore.com (Mike Palmer) writes...
>Anyone got any comments on the windshield chip repair outfits such as 
>"Clear Star Windshield saver"?
> 
>I actually want it to fix a chip in my 26" TV screen (courtesy of my three
>year old!).

All the ones I am familiar with, including the aforementioned, only work
on multilayer auto or safety glass.  The more expensive kits work very
well on auto glass, but I can't say about other types.  Let me know how
it works if you try it.

SJRD
From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Air Compressor Wisdom
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 08:06:06 -0500

 SB> I recall reading that old compressors should be inspected and
 SB> pressure-tested, that releasing compressed air will (of course) cause a
 SB> temperature drop, which can cause moisture to condense in the tank
 SB> itself.  (Yes, compressing the air will raise its temperature, but as
 SB> the tank sits, it will tend to equilibrate with the outside
 SB> temperature.)
 SB> 
 SB> Anyway, the danger is supposedly rust formation on the inside of the
 SB> tank.  True, in folks experience?  Where does one bring a compressor to
 SB> be inspected?  The compressor I'm personally asking about is a Sears
 SB> unit, but I don't know that I'd trust the Sears service department to
 SB> do more than wave a wrench in its vicinity, especially if I can't come
 SB> to them with something more than a vague story.

Most compressors, including your Sears, will have a drain plug on the tank. They
should be drained of water periodically; and if the water that comes out has a
lot of rust in it, it would be a good idea to have it checked. But I don't know
how/where to do that.
From: SDOGGETT@cmsa.gmr.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: IROC smokes on start
Date: 28 Aug 92 12:34:26 GMT
Organization: GM Research Labs

In article <1992Aug25.210108.24712@ncrcae.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM>
kent@lightnin.Columbia.NCR.COM (Kent Richardson) writes:

>
>Just wondering if any other Camaro owners have the same problem I do with the
>car smoking a lot at startup. The amount it smokes seems to increase relative
>to how long the car has sat without running(i.e. next day-smokes a little,
>after a week-smokes a LOT). I was wondering what this is and if anything can
>be done to stop it. I think it may be dirty injectors?? The engine is a
>305 cubic in. (5.0L) with Tuned Port Injection. If it is'nt the injectors I
>don't feel like getting a $50 injection purge.
>
It sure is funny listening to everyones theories.  First, ALL small block Chevy
 heads are hard on guides.  Who ever claimed how great they are obviously doesn
't do head work.  The most common causes on THAT particular vintage is valve st
em seals & the intake.  Some have questioned the intake.  Don't forget that the
bottom of the intake manifold is exposed to oil vapors in the crankcase.  A lea
k on the bottom side of the gasket can cause oil consumption and the blue smoke
  GM has several service bulletins regarding this.  As previously stated you f
irst check bolt torque and tighten if required.  The bulletin also says to inpe
ct the bolt holes thru the intake.  If there are any signs that the bolt thread
s have damaged the intake, GM says to replace it.  My guess is the intake wasn'
t machined right.  This only applies to EFI & PFI engines 1987-8, or so the bul
letin says, those in the field know that's not always true!
These were also known for bad valve stem seals.  The same symptoms will occu
r.  Installing valve seal kit P/N 10132715 will do it.  I'm not sure of the fin
al outcome, but there may have even been a recall this one.  The service bullet
in covers back to 1987, yet I know damn well it should have included 1986's als
o.
   Yes, plugged oil returns can also cause this.  It's the result of LACK OF OW
NER maintanence.  After you drive home pop the hood, re the oil fill cap and lo
ok inside.  If there's lots of oil (lets say up to the valve spring seat) it's
plugged.
   The odds are, it's seals, then maybe intake.  If you could get your hands on
 Chevy Serv Bull 89-252-6, it explains diagnosing smoke on startup, you would f
ind it interesting.  Good Luck, Spencer.
From: ldillard@digi.lonestar.org (Lawrenece Dillard)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: intermittent windshield whipper
Date: 3 Sep 92 17:10:29 GMT
Organization: DSC Communications Corp, Plano, TX

In article <92246.154640QXF1@psuvm.psu.edu> QXF1@psuvm.psu.edu writes:
>I once had problem with the intermittent windshield whipper. Sometimes it
>worked and occasionally it just stopped in the middle. I went to the dealer and
>was told the problem was in the motor and about $200 is needed for the
>replacement. Later on I did some fabrication to the intermittent relay
>circuitary and had the problem solved. Anyone who has the same problem and not
>willing to change the motor are welcome to contact me and share my experience.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mrmike@geta.life.uiuc.edu (Mike McCaughey)
Subject: Early/Classic car parts?
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 18:07:29 GMT

Anyone know of a good source for early/classic car parts?
I'm looking for seal kits, brake parts, ignition parts, etc
for late 40's Chevy. Are there places that specialize in
parts for older model cars?

mrmike@geta.life.uiuc.edu

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: wilson@schaefer.math.wisc.edu (Bob Wilson)
Subject: Re: Recommendations for Mini Van
Reply-To: wilson@math.wisc.edu (Bob Wilson)
Organization: Univ. of Wisconsin Dept. of Mathematics
Distribution: rec.autos
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 92 20:37:04 GMT

In article <PHILG.92Aug29163750@zug.ai.mit.edu> philg@martigny.ai.mit.edu writes:
>
>In article <1992Aug22.085010.1075@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu> lusky@hal.gnu.ai.mit.edu (Jonathan R. Lusky) writes:
>
>   I can assure you that Chrysler is not happy to cover warranty
>   problems, and that the $150 or $200 per visit deductible can really add up.
>   They are supposed to waive the deductible for repeat repairs, But I've had
>   to get a lawyer several times to get those dedecuctibles waived (for
>   repairs that had been made before under warranty).  Chryler is also notorious
>   for refusing admit theres anything wrong with a vehicle.
>
>Wow!  This sounds exactly like Ford.  Lee Iacocca must have brought
>this sort of attitude toward customers with him when he made his big
>move.
(deletions mine... BW)
>
>Philip Greenspun
>MIT Department of EE
This was going on long before Iacocca came to Chrysler. I bought a new
Chrysler product 25 years ago which turned out to have a leak in the
power steering. I kept going back to get it fixed under warranty, and
eventually got a chance to talk with the actual repairman: He said
that the service director was telling him to report the problem fixed,
with the hope that eventually I would give up, because the real
problem was a hair-line crack in a casting and Chrysler would never
pay them for the replacement part. I did give up, fixed it myself, and
swore never to buy another new car. Let somebody else take the
depreciation hit if that's all the warranty is worth!
Bob Wilson
wilson@math.wisc.edu
PS I did keep that car for another 21 years and 147,000 miles, but all
the work was my own.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rakoczynskij@gtephx.UUCP (Jurek Rakoczynski)
Subject: Re: Converting to electronic ignition, air-points
Keywords: points ignition, electronic ignition, convert, air-points
Organization: AG Communication Systems, Phoenix, Arizona
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 17:05:12 GMT

In article <Bto3pB.IpK@resmel.bhp.com.au>, yang@resmel.bhp.com.au (Sam Yang) writes:
> 
> Hello Friends,
> 
> This is an enquiry about converting a points ignition system into an
> electronic one for a Toyota Corolla 10/1983 KE70 Wagon. The car has
> a 1.3L 4 cylinder engine (4KC).
> 
> I drive about 80km/day to work. One of the problem with the car is that
> it eat contact points too quickly -- one in about half a year. The
> performance degrades noticeably when the points getting older. Someone
> suggested me to use a different kind of points -- air points which has
> a hole in the platinum. Does anyone has any experience with this kind
> of points? Are they any good? What is the best brand I should look for?
[text about elec. ign. deleted]

I don't know your particular car but ...
If you are seeing a REAL performance degradation in 6 months, where
you are burnig-up points, the problem may be related to:

1. too high running voltage to the points.
There is usually about 6-9 volts at the points after startup due to
the circuit being switched through some resistance.  Each car is
differant.  See if yours should be.

2. Your missing a condensor (capacitor), or the condensor is bad.
This would cause excessive arcing across the points when they open.
-- 
Jurek Rakoczynski, AG Communication Systems, POB 52179, Phoenix, AZ. 85072
UUCP: ...!{ncar!noao!enuucp | att}!gtephx!rakoczynskij  Voice: +1 602 581 4867
Inet: gtephx!rakoczynskij@enuucp.eas.asu.edu              Fax: +1 602 582 7111
Inet: /DD.UN=J.RAKOCZYNSKI/O=GTE/PRMD=GTEMAIL/ADMD=TELEMAIL/C=US/@sprint.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: brantley@infonode.ingr.com (Dwight D. Brantley)
Subject: Re: Diesel "algae"
Organization: Intergraph Corporation, Huntsville, AL.
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 17:34:44 GMT

In article <1992Sep02.125131.168327@lexmark.com> mollett@lexmark.com (Vic Mollett) writes:
>I was recently told that algae of some sort can grow in fuel tank of a diesel
>car or truck.  This seems most strange to me since there is virtually no light
>that reaches the tank and I would think that diesel would kill just about any-
>thing.  My diesel automobile has a translucent fuel filter/strainer that gets
>black very quickly after changing and I was told that this was the "algae."
>Does anyone (especially a petroleum engineer) have any ideas about this??  The
>person that told me this was reputable, but I'm having a hard time believing
>(to be honest, I had previously assumed that the black was small particles of
>the fuel line that had been "eaten" by the diesel).
>
>-- 
>                                             /\    Vic Mollett
> These opinions are my own and do not       /  \   Lexmark International, Inc.
> necessarily reflect those of my employer.  \  /   mollett@lexmark.com
>                                             \/  

I was a "Liquid Fuels Systems Maintenance Specialist" while I was in the Air 
Force.  We worked mostly with JP4 jet fuel which is essentially kerosene.
Diesel fuel is also essentially kerosene with lubricants and other additives.
JP4 is susceptable to a form of bacteria that can live quite well and grow
like mad with no light at all.  It is a clear or milky sludge which usually
grows best in storage tanks and then moves on to clog any filter residing
downstream.  This is a serious problem in the aviation industry since a
filter which suddenly and completely clogs can cause the pilot and crew some
some serious headaches.  Fuel additives are now used to prevent the growth
of this "bacteria". 

I have experienced this problem with a diesel tractor which suddenly stopped
in the middel of the field one day while mowing.  All three filters were 
clogged with a black goo.  This resembled the bacteria I have seen in JP4
except for the color.  I suspect they are very closely related and wether
it is plant or animal I won't argue over, but it is a living and growing
organisim.  I found that a thorough cleaning, and using a good diesel fuel
additive solved the problem.  These additives are readily available at any
K-Mart and are designed to keep the fuel system clean and prevent the
fuel from turning to a gel at very low temperatures. 

If you'd like to know more, drop me a line and I'll explain this "bacteria"
business in a littel more detail.

      ******************************************************************
      *   Dwight Brantley    *   Failure Analysis & Reliability Dept.  *
      *  Intergraph, Corp.   *  Reply To: brantley@falab1.b21.ingr.com *
      *   Huntsville, AL     *           Voice: 205-730-4456           *
      ******************************************************************
From: Michel_Denber.WBST147@XEROX.COM
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Cleaning spark plugs
Date: 1 Sep 92 14:21:00 GMT


	"The proper way to clean spark plugs on a 76 maverik is to liberaly
douse the entire vehicle with gasoline move a respectable distance from the
vehicle and throw lit matches until all problems are removed."

What???  You must be kidding.  Don't you realize the gasoline would just flow
right through all the rust holes and run uselessly into the ground?

My wife sold her 74 Maverick to some guy here in Rochester.  A week later he
got sent to Attica.  We didn't ask what for (he probably tried to strangle the
local Ford dealer).

			- Michel

denber.wbst147@xerox.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ejhupper@rs6000.cmp.ilstu.edu (Eric Huppertz)
Subject: Technical/repair manual for Dodge
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 20:12:33 GMT
Organization: Illinois State University


Hi, 

Does anyone know where I can get a technical manual for a Dodge Daytona?
Preferably with repair instructions and parts listings, etc.  If anyone
knows where I can get one, or if you have one to sell me, please let me
know!

Thanks for the info,

-E.


-- 
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 
+ Eric J. Huppertz   | Disclaimers: | Signature virus mutation: I will copy +
+ ejhupper@ilstu.edu |  the usual   | MYSELF into your .sig!!  Mwa ha ha... +
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: wb8foz@skybridge.SCL.CWRU.Edu (David Lesher)
Subject: Re: Converting to electronic ignition
Reply-To: wb8foz@skybridge.scl.cwru.edu (David Lesher)
Organization: NRK Clinic for habitual NetNews abusers - Beltway Annex
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 92 19:43:06 GMT

What ever happened to my old standby - The DeltaKit CD ignition system? 
It retained your points, but did all the hard work. I had them
on a 67 Beetle where it eliminated the 'won't start with a weak
batter on a damp day' syndrome, a 68 2002 that then never needed
plugs, and other beasts I can no longer recall. I think it cost
$29.95 in kit form.........
--
A host is a host from coast to coast..wb8foz@skybridge.scl.cwru.edu
& no one will talk to a host that's close..........................
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech