HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: ron@topaz.bds.com (Ron Natalie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Air Compressor Questions
Date: 16 Oct 1992 18:30:56 GMT
Organization: BDS Systems
Distribution: na
NNTP-Posting-Host: topaz.bds.com

> In addition, each tool is rated in SCFM as to how much air it needs
> for continuous duty. But many tools are not used continuously (like
> an air drill). In order for the compressor to be able to keep up, you
> want the compressor's SCFM to be no less than the average consumption
> for the tool.

This is only true at pressures substantially lower than the maximum pressure of the compressor.  Once you get close to 90PSI or so, you don't really have that
much reserve in the tank.

I've got a compressor that essentially delivers air at 120 PSI (this is
typical for the small compressors).  It delivers air at 2 SCFM.  It can
not ever deliver more than that.  If I use a tool that needs close to 120
PSI and 4 CFM, it will never work properly regardless of infrequently I
use it.  
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: obrien@serum.clpd.Kodak.Com (John O'Brien (x37279))
Subject: Re:      Red Oak in Bulk
Reply-To: obrien@serum.kodak.com
Organization: Eastman Kodak Company - Clinical Products Division
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 16:29:10 GMT

In article <1992Oct8.173813.13231@dale.ksc.nasa.gov>, bsloan@dale.ksc.nasa.gov (bill sloan) writes:
|> In article <08OCT92.09394003.0029.MUSIC@SJUMUSIC>,         ZGDSHSE <ZGDSHSE@SJUMUSIC.BITNET> writes:
|> > 
|> > Hi Fellow Woodworkers -
|> > 
|> > I am trying to justify buying a planer by purchasing wood that
|> > is dried, but not finished on any side.  So far I have been
|> > unable to find a source of bulk wood like this.
|> > 
|> > 
|> General recommendation:  Start with the yellow pages under Lumber, wholesale
|> or Sawmills. If you can't find anything locally, start with the directories
|> for outlying communities.  Once you find a supplier, contact them and see
|> if they are willing to sell to an individual.  But be prepared to buy in lots
|> of 100 - 200 bf (or more) at a time. Other possible starting point - the classified section of
|> Fine Woodworking.
|> 
|> Bill Sloan

There needs to be other reasons, for me at least, to purchase a planer
other than trying to save money. Consider these figures:
 My local woodshop sells white oak, 4/4 in the rough for $3.20/bf. The
planed stuff sells for $3.30/bf. Therefore, inorder to justify
purchasing a $300 10" planer of some sort, you will need to plane over
937 board feet of this wood at these prices. This is $3000 worth of
wood. It would only cost you $94 more to buy the same amount of wood
in the S2S grade. So you see, I could never justify purchasing one if
I thought it was going to save me any money. But I can justify one by
comparing the quality of the outcome against what you buy at an outlet
already planed. The boards I recently bought (poplar, walnut, and
cherry) all have slight nicks and gouges that require belt sanding. If
I had my own planer I would not have this problem.

Just my 2 cents for what it's worth.

John O'Brien
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stevep@lugh.se.hou.compaq.com (Steve Pinn)
Subject: Re: Need Advice On Outdoor Wooden Door
Organization: Compaq Computer Corporation
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 22:08:44 GMT

In article <gT5-CfB@engin.umich.edu>, Robert Drongowski <Robert.Drongowski@cc.umich.edu> writes:
|> 
|> Help!
|> We live in Michigan and have an outside-exposed wooden door which faces
|> southwest and is therefore pelted with wind, snow and exposed to the sun.
|>  Every year the door's varnish peels extensively, and thus we have to
|> sand,  re-stain and use 3 coats of exterior varnish.  This becomes very
|> tiresome, and I would be very thankful if someone could offer any
|> solution to prevent this problem from becoming a yearly event.  We have
|> tried wood sealant since there are cracks in the wood.  Any other tricks
|> worth knowing about or trying???

Bob, I finished my front doors about a year ago with Hydrocoat Exterior Polyshield.  My front doors face south west and in the blazing Houston sun it can be quite devastating to finishes.  After about a year the stain which I used has totally faded but the finish remains intact and solid, it seems to have stood up quite well.

Polyshield is water based and contains UV protectants and was a pleasure to use, I would use it again.

Steve
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: BEC@uacsc2.albany.edu
Subject: Synchronous motors (was Re: Wooden ball clock)
Organization: University at Albany, Albany NY 12222
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 92 01:00:06 EDT

In article <1992Oct13.151350.7800@cs.wm.edu>
Scott Fenstermacher writes:
>You should try getting a 1 RPM synchronous motor. This will run in sync with
>the commercial power provider. They are typically more accurate than most.
 
In fact, commercial power providers periodically adjust the nominal 60-Hz
power line frequency specifically so that electric clocks (which use syn-
chronous motors) will continue to show the correct time.  (At least this was
true at one time and I can't see why they shouldn't still be doing it.  When
was the last time you had to reset a (plug-in) electric clock except for
reasons of power outage or springforward/fallback?)
 
Herbach & Rademan (18 Canal St, P.O. Box 122, Bristol PA 19007-0122, 1-800-
848-8001, FAX 215-788-9577) is a good source of small motors, synchronous and
otherwise, as well as lots of other "surplus" electronic and electro-mechanical
goodies.  In a 10-month-old catalog they were offering 1-rpm timimg motors
for $5-$10, cost depending on torque and other specs.  They also had a 1/3 hp
3450 rpm job for $19.50.  This stuff comes and goes.  Ask for a current ca-
talog showing their motors.  (Their catalogs run in a cycle and not every
issue features motors.)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: keating@rtsg.mot.com (Edward Keating)
Subject: Re: Need Advice On Outdoor Wooden Door
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 18:46:00 GMT

Robert Drongowski <Robert.Drongowski@cc.umich.edu> writes:


>Help!
>We live in Michigan and have an outside-exposed wooden door which faces
>southwest and is therefore pelted with wind, snow and exposed to the sun.
> Every year the door's varnish peels extensively, and thus we have to
>sand,  re-stain and use 3 coats of exterior varnish.  This becomes very
>tiresome, and I would be very thankful if someone could offer any
>solution to prevent this problem from becoming a yearly event.  We have
>tried wood sealant since there are cracks in the wood.  Any other tricks
>worth knowing about or trying???
>Bob Drongowski, Ann Arbor, MI

Try a storm door. When I added storm doors to my house, just about all of the
finish/weathering problems went away.  Since putting up storm windows over 
my thermopane double hung windows, I have not had to re-finish the windows. 
With increased UV (and likely to increase in the near future!), there is 
a substantially reduced life of outdoor finishes.

BTW, has anyone heard of a good UV inhibitor for exterior paint? I can't seem to
get more than about 2 1/2 years on trim without scraping and repriming.
-- 
#undef .sig
From: RON.SANDS@OFFICE.WANG.COM ("Ron Sands")
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Storing a table saw in the garage
Date: 13 Oct 92 20:45:11 GMT
Organization: Wang Laboratories - Imaging Support Group

All of my woodworking equiptment is in the side of the garage that my truck
looks longingly at during most of the winter.

Although I do not "store" my equipment, I do have to concern my self with
rust prevention and since there is a lathe, bandsaw, jointer, drill press,
10" tiling arbor table saw with extension table and work bench I do have
a space problem that may help you with storage.

First, rust prevention.  I frequently wax the bare metal working surfaces
of all my equipment.  This not only prevents rust but also makes the work
a lot smoother going.  I use a high quality paste wax intended for automobile
finishes.  Works great.  An experience I had a few winters ago was that it
had been cold for some time then one of our frequent Texas summer warm spells
blew some hot moist air from the south.  In a garage it became instant
condensation!  I was out there with heaters, fans and more wax.  I wouldn't
suggest covering the saw with a non-breating cover since most garage floors
would natually let moisture come up underneath and condense on your saw.
Instant rust!  Looks good if your going for the antique look.

Second, storage.  Since my space is limited and frequently I need a piece
of equipment other than pasted up against the wall.  It would be quite an
ordeal to try and move these without the "wooden trolleys" I made out of
redwood and locking casters.  Because all of these Delta tools are real heavy
the trolley had to be substantialy built.  So 2x6 readwood with an underslung
3/4 plywood base with heavy duty locking casters works great.  Now I can
roll them against the wall when not needed and pull them out when I do.
This may be a good way to roll your saw out of the way too.  Big emphasis
on the "locking casters" though.  Make sure to use that type so when you
are working with the saw it doesn't want to roll around and cause a very
dangerous situation.

Ron
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: owens@gargoyle.uchicago.edu (Christopher Owens)
Subject: Wood selection and purchase
Organization: Dept of Computer Science, The Univ of Chicago
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 20:01:00 GMT

I'm thinking about trying some Cherry as a material. Although it's a
bit pricey at the frou-frou woodworker's shop nearby, there's a
hardwood dealer in town who normally deals in 1000 bf units is being a
good sport and will sell me 100 bf of whatever I want at the 1000 bf
unit price as long as I spec exactly what I want (i.e. no picking
through the inventory) and buy it cash-and-carry.

(for reference, his price is $2.80/bf for 4/4 rough, random lengths
 and widths (min 4" width, min 6' length), 6% moisture,
 select-and-better cherry.  There is also somebody nearby (but I've
 got to do the schlepping) who'll make it s3s for a flat price of $40
 per load  (or I can do it myself using the equiment at a community
 shop nearby)

Anybody know how to specify cherry?  There appear to be multiple
varieties running around under different names --- Thomas Moser's
book, for example, sings the praises of "black" cherry, but warns
cryptically that it's not to be confused with "northern pasture" or
"pin" cherry, but a USDA book I checked gives some other names.  Also,
although I've read up on hardwood grading, it's still a bit of a black
art to me.  Is "select and better" what I want?

Can anybody recommend a definitive book on wood selection for
furniture making?  Is Hoadley's book the recommended one?

As a side note, it's a commercial/cultural curiosity for me,
originating from the Northeast where nobody manufactures anything big
industrially any more, to be living in Chicago, where a quick trip
through the yellow pages finds me lumber yards who sell in 1000 board
feet units, and hardware stores selling tools suitable for assembling
railroad bridges!



Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: rich@theophilus.msfc.nasa.gov (Rich Krum)
Subject: Re: Thank you for your support (Was: How d
Reply-To: rich@theophilus.msfc.nasa.gov
Organization: Boeing Computer Support Services
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 18:13:55 GMT

Most traditionally-built wooden boats that have tightly-curved ribs
were made by collecting tree stuops with roots, or tree sections with limbs
and using those naturally-curved pieces to make the ribs.  I remember a TV show
about traditional boat-building in Africa (I think) where most of the boatyard
was stacked with sections of limb and trunk.  The pieces were worked with a
broadaxa and adze into final shape.  Much of the final lines of the boat were
a direct result of using the sections available--no real plans, no real layout
tools other than years of skill and a darn good eye on the part of the shipwright.

Many old wooden ships in Europe and the Americas were also built this way. 

--rich

---
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
"My opinions are my own, and my employer (Boeing Computer Support Services)
 denies any responsibility for me, all opinions in general, and anything 
 I may say, do, or be otherwise associated with outside of work for them.
 -- Use at your own risk, your mileage may vary, no news is good news."

 E-MAIL REPLY TO:  rich@troll1.msfc.nasa.gov     PLEASE KEEP IT "G" RATED
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bees' Wax Furniture Polish
Date: 9 Oct 92 18:03:39 GMT
Distribution: world, na
Organization: University of Arizona UNIX Users Group


Various Beeswax finishes:

My Favorite:

Take a large pot and fill it 1/2 with water.  Put a three pound coffee can
with about a pound of bees wax in the pot.   You have a double
boiler.  Heat the water until the wax is well melted.  Take it outside and
add a mixture of 1 pint turpentine and 1 pint tung (or linseed) oil.
The mix will partially solidify,  but if you have enough HOT water in
the double boiler it will melt again.  Stir, and allow to cool.

This will make a paste which hardens to a nice dull glow.   The finish
is easy to apply;  rub in a thing coat, wait a day, and do again until
desired thickness of finish is acehived.   This finish is not as
durable as polyurethane, but it is very easy to repair.  It repells
water very well.   If you use linessed oil it takes longer for the finish
to harden, and is not quiet as durable, in my opinion.

Yes, this smells great!

Other options:

If you have any carnuba, you can add 10% to 20% carnuba.  This really hardens
the finish,  but also makes it harder to polish out by hand.   It's a trade 
off.

You can leave out the tung/linseed oil.  This gives you a softer finish,
but one which doesn't have any oily nature.  I've always set my finished
peices out in the Arizona sun, and after 1 day the oil is always
polymerized,  but could imagine this might be a problem in a Minnesota
winter...


A really wierd finish that some people swear by, but which I don't like,
is emulsified beeswax.    melt your wax a above,  but then 1 pint HOT 
water with a drop or two of detergent and a drop of household ammonia
added.  Then, put it in a paint shaker (or be ready to destroy your
arm) as it cools.   The resulting mess is a million microscopic beads
of beeswax suspended in water.   Supposedly, when you wipe it on and
then rub like a maniac, the layers formed by the beads being pressed
together gives an added depth and sheen to the finish.   I know it's
a lot of work, and it don't wound worth it to me.


An interesting note is that a freind of mine adds rose extract to
his beeswax finishes.  The wax captures to essence, and releases
it over a period of a few months.   Cute idea... never done it.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: smb@ulysses.att.com (Steven Bellovin)
Subject: Notching 2x4's
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1992 02:22:23 GMT
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories

For various reasons, I needed to build some frameworks of 8' 2x4's
standing on edge, using lap joints.  This meant cutting a fair number
of deep notches in the wood.  A radial arm saw is the obvious tool to
use, but I don't have one.  (I also don't have the room to put one.) I
tried using my router with an edge guide on a stacked group of beams;
it didn't work well at all.  I finally managed to do the job with my
table saw, but it was hard -- nibbling away near the end of an 8' piece
of wood isn't what table saws are good at...

A thought that occurred to me, but one I didn't try, was to cut lots of
kerfs with a circular saw, and break out the waste.  I've done that
before, when working away from home without my usual complement of
tools, but the results were mixed.  This time, I could have cleaned up
the bottom with a router or a chisel.

I'm curious what other suggestions folks have.  Power tools available
include the afore-mentioned table saw, router, circular saw, jig saw,
drill press, and scroll saw.  If it matters, I'm a Normian, not a
Royist...

		--Steve Bellovin
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bsloan@dale.ksc.nasa.gov (bill sloan)
Subject: Re:      Red Oak in Bulk
Organization: nasa
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 17:38:13 GMT

In article <08OCT92.09394003.0029.MUSIC@SJUMUSIC>,         ZGDSHSE <ZGDSHSE@SJUMUSIC.BITNET> writes:
> 
> Hi Fellow Woodworkers -
> 
> I am trying to justify buying a planer by purchasing wood that
> is dried, but not finished on any side.  So far I have been
> unable to find a source of bulk wood like this.
> 
> 
General recommendation:  Start with the yellow pages under Lumber, wholesale
or Sawmills. If you can't find anything locally, start with the directories
for outlying communities.  Once you find a supplier, contact them and see
if they are willing to sell to an individual.  But be prepared to buy in lots
of 100 - 200 bf (or more) at a time. Other possible starting point - the classified section of
Fine Woodworking.

Bill Sloan
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jfh@cs.brown.edu (John F. Hughes)
Subject: Re: How do I bend an oak 4x4? (rounding it afterwards)
Organization: Brown University Department of Computer Science
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 20:31:48 GMT

In article <1992Oct6.200652.6333@cs.sfu.ca> troy@cs.sfu.ca (Troy Brooks) writes:
>
> Re: bending. How, exactly, do you steam bend wood? It seems to me
> you'd need a LOT of steam, covering the whole length of the board,
> or at least substantial parts of it, and I can't see waving a kettle
> back and forth. :-) Do you have to get a special steaming apparatus,
> or can you build one, or what?
>

What boatbuilders do is to build a steambox. This is typically a long box
(like 20', assuming you want to bend something 18' long, like a plank for the
hull of a boat) which is maybe 10" x 10", built from 2" thick stock, and sealed
pretty well along its length, and at both ends. The plugs at the ends are
removable. At one end of the box, there's a little stove thingy. It 
boils water, which is run through radiator hose into the steam box, 
where it immediately condenses (sigh). The steam box is therefore kept
a little tilted to let the water run out the far end, through a small drain
hole. 
   OK, so you run the thing forever, and eventually the wood in the sides of
the box heats up enough to be of some use to you (i.e. to cease condesing the
steam immediately). Now you open up one end (the downhill one, if you're smart)
and shove your board-to-be-steamed in there as far as you can, and seal it up
again. Some folks like to put little rods across the box at various points to 
let the wood sit up "in the air" instead of "on the floor". Wait a long time.
Pull the board out and bend it in place as fast as you possibly can. Repeat. 

Note: if you want to work on more steaming the next day, you leave the box on
overnight, so that you don't waste the hours re-heating it. Alternatively, you
build a box with some sort of fancy insulating material, and save a lot of
grief.

For those of us with more modest goals (I once needed to bend ribs for a small
rowing boat--they were about 6' long, 1/2" x 3/8" oak), two simpler systems
are available:

(1) Fill a tub with boiling water and soak them in there. It's a drag trying to
keep the water hot, though.

(2) Make your own "steambox." I used a piece of cheapo downspout from the local
HW store, and wrapped an old blanket around it for insulation. I got an old
percolator from the salvation army, and some heater hose from a junkyard. The
hose stuck over the mouth of the coffeepot, and up into a hole I cut in the
downspout. The downspout hung (horizontally) from the ceiling, helping to
encourage the steam to rise from the coffeepot to the "box".  I diddled the
inside of the coffeepot so that it never turned off, and set a timer to remind
me to check the water level every 15 minutes. Worked like a charm. Of course, I
could never steam anything bigger than about 2" x 2.5", but I never needed to,
either. 

-John
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: skey@bnr.ca (Steven Key)
Subject: Re: Grizzly jointer question
Keywords: Grizzly jointer pulley alignment
Reply-To: skey@bnr.ca (Steven Key)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 09 Oct 92 13:16:04 GMT

Eric,

	I have the Canadian equivalent to the Grizzly 6 in jointer,
and I had exactly the same situation, however the manual I was 
provided with did not show the pulley detail, so I assumed that it 
was incorrectly installed at the factory. I have had no problems
with it in this configuration. One other thing to watch for tho...
check the set screw on the cutterhead pulley, mine had machining
residue in the threads so that it appeared to be snug when it wasn't.
I discovered this when the shaft key came flying out the back after 
about 15 minutes use.

Steve 
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Wed, 14 Oct 1992 16:49:00 CDT
From:         Charlie Griffin <CGRIFFIN@KSUVM.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Inlay

>
> Oh come now, Mike!  Is this wishful thinking, or just a stretch of the
> word 'near'?
> I live in Boulder and as far as I know, the *nearest* beach is something
> like 1200 miles away, and has been for the 13 years that I've lived here.
> Granted, Denver is 28 miles from Boulder, but still, that's not a lot
> closer to the beach...
> I believe that this area was part of an inter-continental sea at one time,
> but that was during the early Pleistocene (???) era.
> If you have access to special beach near here somewhere, maybe you could
> let us all in on the secret??
> :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-)
>
> -Paul

With all due grins, I'm in about as beach-deprived area as Denver....Kansas.
The beaches and hot springs are lousy around here!  But I pick up fresh-
water mussel shells that are a real pretty rose color when the local reservoir
is low.  The shell is thin, but makes a nice inlay.  There is also a thicker
white shelled variety.

BTW, use a dust mask if you sand this stuff with a power sander that puts  dust
in the air.  It's not good for lungs!

-Charlie
cgriffin@ksuvm
From: ddeutsch@bbn.com (Debra Deutsch)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Need recomendations for.....
Date: 7 Oct 1992 21:18:46 GMT
NNTP-Posting-Host: bbn.com

yasin@laser.dev.cdx.mot.com (Yasin) writes:

>Hi Everyone,

>I am a resident of Mass., I am at present very much interested in
>taking some intermediate level course or on-hands training in 
>woodworking. Would appreciate if you can recommend any availble
>in the area of Rhode Island or Mass.

>I am also interested in the knowing about the TV shows related to WW 
>with atleast the day and time.

>Thanks in advance for the help.

>Regards,

I *highly* recommend the North Bennet Street School, in Boston.  They
have a two-year full-time course in woodworking (cabinetry /
furniture-making) that has a national reputation.  They have also
begun offering short, part-time courses (on weekends or two weeks of
weekdays during the summer) for serious amateurs.  The emphasis is on
traditional joinery and hand tools.  I have taken two of their
part-time courses and been extremely satisfied with the instructors,
facilities, and course content.