HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: lavelle@convex.com (Brent LaVelle)
Subject: Garage door opener question.
Summary: Where to find a replacment remote for a "Door Mate"
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 22:08:38 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Engineering, CONVEX Computer Corp., Richardson, Tx., USA
Keywords: D'oooh, D'why you
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by a user at CONVEX Computer
              Corp. The opinions expressed are those of the user and
              not necessarily those of CONVEX.

I recently bought a house that had foreclosed and was vacant for some
time, it has a garage door opener but no remotes.  I have tried to get
the old openers from the real estate people (who got 6% of this transaction)
but they are unable to locate it for me.

The next step was to waste a day calling hardware stores and even an
"overhead door" company to find a replacement for my "Door Mate."  Nobody
sells this only one guy had even heard of this mystery opener at all, and
that was due to some other lost home owner like myself.

So now that you heard my sad story, does anyone out there in net-land
know where I can get the device in question?  There is a 3 prong crown
on the front of the unit with Door Mate written in it and R 700 above that.
There are 2 lights on each side of the unit that can be removed to ajust
the high/low bounds of door movement.  On the inside is a board with some
DIP switches (I assume to ajust the frequence/code the door responds to) but
no writing (ie made by Genie).  The motor has not manufacurer listed on
it either.

If you know what to do please mail me.  Thanx...



Could this door be used to kill burglers? ;)  Sorry I couldn't help it.


Brent LaVelle
lavelle@convex.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: doshay@ursa.arc.nasa.gov (David Doshay)
Subject: Re: Realty-English Dictionary
Organization: NASA-Ames Biocomputation Center
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 16:27:29 GMT

you left out:

Potential: something like fixer-upper, but requires far more work

David		doshay@soma.arc.nasa.gov

The thought police insist I tell you:
my thoughts, not NASA's

From: chrisw@hpscit.sc.hp.com (Chris Wiles)
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 19:51:54 GMT
Subject: Re: HELP! Does anyone own a shed?
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Clara, CA
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house



	I just built a wood 8x12 last weekend and it was fun to
build. I was a kit from 84 lumber. It consisted of wood trusses
that were prefabed and the rest was just raw stock. It was nice 
since the only cutting was that of cutting 4x8 sheets in half.
The plans were a little confusing and I only refered to them once
or twice the rest was staight forward. The only hitch was that
they only gave me 2 packages of shingles when I needed 2 squares
(6 packages). It looks nice and is very sturdy. i used drywall
screws instead of the nails to assemble it.

	I put mine on 6x12" cement construction blocks.

I paid $600 for mine, watch out some prefabed wood sheds don't
include the flooring or roofing materials.

	chris wiles
From: andrew@frip.WV.TEK.COM (Andrew Klossner)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Asea Washer?
Date: 8 Sep 92 19:35:02 GMT
Reply-To: andrew@frip.wv.tek.com
Organization: Tektronix, Wilsonville, Oregon

[]

	"My General Electric washer needs to be replaced ... As noise
	is a big consideration, I am considering buying an Asea washer
	... The repairman said they were probably good but that I might
	have trouble locating people who knew how to fix them."

	"Is this washer made on Mars or some other alien planet, so
	that it is totaly different to all other makes of washers?"

I have an Asea *dish* washer -- is that what we're talking about?  It's
made in Sweden.  It seems considerably better made than the American
varieties.  It's a little more expensive.  It's quieter.  I've only had
it a few weeks so I can't speak to repair problems.

  -=- Andrew Klossner  (andrew@frip.wv.tek.com)
                       (uunet!tektronix!frip.WV.TEK!andrew)
From: ktsai@BBN.COM (Karl Tsai)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: recommend RE lawyer+builder in MA
Date: 11 Sep 92 16:02:32 GMT
Reply-To: ktsai@BBN.COM (Karl Tsai)
Distribution: ne
Organization: Bolt Beranek and Newman Inc., Cambridge MA
NNTP-Posting-Host: bbn.com

I am not 100% sure that this msg should go here, I apologize if it is
inappropriate here.  On the other hand, you guys have already passed the
stage I'm in and may be in a good position to help me out ...

I am about to draw a Purchase and Sales agreement on a parcel of land,
can you recommend a good real-estate lawyer in Boston area to look over
my shoulder ?

Also, even though I've done some readings and asked around a bit, I would
appreciate any advice and/or recommendation about a good builder (in terms
of cost-effectiveness, right attitude ...); first person experience is
preferred.

Thank you in advance and I will compile a list afterwards for anyone 
interested.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Electrical wiring for fixtures
From: gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston)
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 92 18:34:54 CDT
Organization: Garys' Home for Obsolete Computers

exukev@exu.ericsson.se (Kevin Autrey) writes:

>   I'm in the process of rewiring a circuit in my house.  This circuit
> feeds ceiling fixtures only, such as lights, fans, etc.  The books
> that I've seen talk about using a switch loop to go from the fixture
> to the wall switch.  This would imply that the fixtures themselves
> have the circuit feed coming in and going out, with a switch loop wire
> run to the wall switch.  I.e.:
   [ deleted ]
> However, the way the circuit is currently wired (circa 1950) is that
> the wall switch box has the feed wire coming in and going out, with
> the two-conductor wire to the fixture providing power (hot and
> neutral) to the fixture.  I.e.
    [ deleted ]
> Now, I realize that both of these techniques are basically equivalent.
> Personally, if I had my d'ruthers (choice), I'd put the most wires and
> connections in the biggest box (which in this case is the ceiling
> fixture box).  However, is there any guideline set forth in the NEC
> that anybody knows about that says which way is "best" or which way
> is "the only way it should be done"?

I personally prefer the second method you describe. It makes it
easier to work on a fixture; by turning off a switch, there are
no live wires in the box. (There are times you don't want to cut
an entire circuit, even though that is the recommended method.)

Either of the ways you describe will work. I'd just put in a larger
box (then again, I'll probably be putting in a double every place 
there'll be a light switch, to allow for fan controls and such).

The first method is a little faster, and will use a little less
wire. Both are within code.

Gary Heston, at home....
gary@cdthq.uucp

Xref: sparky misc.consumers.house:12073 misc.consumers:16366
From: ppasquin@dcsc.dla.mil (Peggy Pasquinelly)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,misc.consumers
Subject: Re:  Another mortgage scam?
Keywords: Lock in rate
Date: 9 Sep 92 18:14:48 GMT
Followup-To: poster
Distribution: usa
Organization: Defense Construction Supply Center, Columbus


    Boy, am I mad.  My husband and I purchased some land recently
    and decided to build a house to take advantage of the low
    interest rates available now.

    We bought a house last year, and paid cash for this land.  We're
    in a cash crunch right now, but that'll be cleared up when we
    sell our current home.

    We contacted a local bank to get pre-approval on the loan.
    Our builder recommended this bank because he handles financial
    matters with them.  They told us we would have to pay 2%
    immediately to lock in the interest rate to be refunded at
    closing.  We haven't even made application yet!

    This is not an application fee.  It is not discount points.
    According to their representative, this is a new policy instituted
    by the bank as some sort of solution or alternative to paying
    discount points, since so many home buyers don't want to pay
    points. . . .. I won't pontificate points.  I THINK THIS IS
    A SCAM TO SUPPRESS ISSUING MORTGAGES BECAUSE THE INTEREST RATES
    ARE _SO_ LOW RIGHT NOW.  Anyone else out there running into
    this?  BTW, I don't feel too sorry for the banks.  It may
    put a hurt on them to issue 7.5% loans, but our bank only
    paid us 2.6% interest on our money market last month.

    Peggy Pasquinelly
-- 
  Peggy L. Pasquinelly (ppasquinelly@dcsc.dla.mil)
  DCSC-OPF (AV) 850-3881

  It's a dirty job and I have to do it.
From: majidi@yoko.rutgers.edu (Masoud Majidi)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: how to locate new developments
Date: 11 Sep 92 19:34:35 GMT
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.


Dear netters,

Is there any way to get a list of new developments (developments that
are under construction) in a county? i.e. Is there a government agency
which would have such information readily so that one can call and ask
for a copy of it.

Thanks in advance,

Masoud Majidi (majidi@umdnj.edu)
From: greg@netcom.com (Greg Bullough)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Whole-House Fan Choice is Not a Breeze
Date: 8 Sep 92 19:43:15 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest)

In article <1992Sep8.180818.29875@cbnewsd.cb.att.com> grande@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (brad.l.grande) writes:
>In article <f_nn=+b.greg@netcom.com>, greg@netcom.com (Greg Bullough) writes:
>>  
>>   3. To pump air which is cooler than the ambient attic temperature
>>      into the attic, thus improving house cooling.
>>  
>> In my experience (3) is very important. My whole house fan has
>> cut the time the gable fan runs by a great deal.
>
>An article in Consumer Reports on house cooling a couple of years ago discussed
>item 3 above and suggested that if you had sufficient insulation (don't remember
>the exact amount but I do recall that it was what you would find in any post
>1970's energy crisis built home) that heat infiltration through the ceiling
>was minimal and the whole house fan would not have an effect on this aspect.
 
They're just plain wrong. I can certainly feel the effect of the attic
re-heating the house when only window fans are used to bring the temperature
down. And my house was built in 1983. With heavy ceiling insulation. But
the attic is small and reaches scorching temperatures.
 
>The article went on to suggest that if you did not have sufficient insulation
>that it would be cheaper to add insulation than to add a whole house fan.  It
>also said that power attic ventilators were not effective if the insullation
>was adequate and therefore they were not an effective investment.
 
Again, I, and my neighbors, have found that a gable fan does, indeed, help
control the overall temperature of the house, especially in a three-day
heat wave. 
 
CU is a crock on this one. There are other reasons to keep the attic cool,
as well, such as keeping the structure and the roof healthy.

>A downside of a whole house fan is that your house will become more dusty
>as the fan pulls dust with the air into the house.  Keeping unused rooms
>closed after initial air exchange will help minimize this, but you will find
>more dust in the house and stuck to the screens.

Yes, indeed. It's a lot of fun to clean the mini-blinds, too :-)

>As far as using the fan to exhaust new construction chemical odors, that is
>a very good idea.  Remember that the temp inside the house lags the outside
>by several hours.  So turning on the fan during the day may just make your
>house hotter sooner.  You will need to wait until sundown to effectively
>use it anyway, so you will get the benefit of chemical exchange anyway.

I sometimes trade the higher temperature off against having fresh air.
 
Then again, I sometimes run the whole-house fan in the winter, just to
freshen up the house :-)
 
Greg
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: davidm@meaddata.com (David Miller)
Subject: Re: Home security tips from a burglar
Organization: Mead Data Central, Dayton OH
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 12:58:55 GMT
Distribution: na

In article <1992Sep10.160231.3536@porthos.cc.bellcore.com>, patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie) writes:
|> Question for you electrical wiring gurus. I'd like to wire up a pair of
|> floodlights to a three-way switch in such a manner that in one position
|> the lights are driven by a motion detector and in the other position
|> they are on. I would also put a single pole switch upstream to let me cut
|> the thing off by cutting the power to the 3-way.
|> 
|> Comments?

Assuming you can easily bypass the sensor, I think a simple 3way switch would
work.  Run power to the center pole of the 3way via the 2way for absolute off.
Then run one pole to the sensor, and the other around the sensor to the light.
I don't know about code (so you should check!).  I'd use 14/3, with black
around the sensor, red to the sensor, and well, you can guess what the white and
copper are for...

-- 
David James Miller                        Architecture&Systems Evolution
Mead Data Central, B6F3                   (513) 865-7441
PO Box 933                                davidm@meaddata.com
Dayton Ohio 45401                         I speak for me, not MDC
From: brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 19:46:14 GMT
Subject: Re: Sheetrocking Question
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house

I won't get into any gory detail (then again, I learned that the best
way to enjoy a rocking job was to contract it out.  I'm a *lousy*
taper.) but here's a couple of tips:

Sheetrock is *very* heavy.  A sheet of 4 x 8 x 1/2" rock (normal grade)
weighs about 75 pounds.  Water rock (the green stuff) clocks in at
around 100 for the same size.  If you have to move piles a lot, you
might be tempted to lift the sheets without paying much attention to
how you are lifting.  This is a really good way to screw up your back.
(One of the Xrays in my rather extensive portfolio is a picture of a
disc that I damaged doing this.  :-()  Use whatever help that you
can get to keep your back straight and vertical.  "Use the strongest
muscles".  If this means you hire some, that will be money well spent.

If you are rocking into old 2 x 4 stock, you will regret using ring-shank
nails.  Use either cement-coated smooth nails or sheetrock screws.

If you were using green lumber, make sure it's reasonably dry, straight and
level when you rock.  I had to pull out a ceiling's worth of rock
that I had installed on green 2 x 6" finger joists that shrank too much.
Had to reseat the joists.  That was no fun, but the room would have looked
like hell if I hadn't been willing to go to that extent to fix that
screwup.

Whether you nail or screw, watch out for repetitive stress injuries.  I
got one hell of a case of tendonitis (no Xray this time) by doing some
single-handed ceiling rocking and using the hammer with some rather
peculiar wrist motions.  If you use screws, rent or buy a sheetrock
screw gun.  A drill bit chucked into a drill will do the job, but using
your wrist as the clutch will get pretty painful at the end of the day.

If you want to do your own taping, try a small, inconspicuous closet
to make your initial errors in.  I made my errors in public rooms, and
while the bedrooms looked a lot better with textured paint on the celing
and wallpaper, the kitchen couldn't be fixed so well.  I ended up farming
out the rest of the taping to a pro; he did a great job in two days, complete
with skip trowel texturing.  This cost was reasonable (too long ago to quote
prices) and saved me a bunch of frustration.

Sheetrocking is not a lot of fun, but reasonably careful work can give
good results.  Your advantage over the tract-house rocking crew is that
you aren't getting paid by the fhouse.  Work carefully, safely, and slowly
and you will appreciate the results.

Pete Brooks, appreciating the fact that half of my current house is
plastered.  It's the other half that scares me!
From: jge@ceti.cs.unc.edu (John Eyles)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Asea Washer?
Date: 9 Sep 92 16:26:16 GMT
Organization: The University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill

>>Anyone with an Asea washer out there?

My sister got an Asea dishwasher.  She doesn't hate it, but now
wishes she had gotten KitchenAid instead.  I can't remember exactly
why.  Sorry.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: kls4344@ritvax.isc.rit.edu (Person in flux)
Subject: Re: Builder's Square ?
Reply-To: kls4344@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Distribution: usa
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 1992 15:31:54 GMT

In article <92254.1554093MECZLX@CMUVM.CSV.CMICH.EDU>, Karl A. Johnson 
<3MECZLX@CMUVM.CSV.CMICH.EDU> writes re. Builder's Square:

>One word of warning: If you shop there PRICE CHECK  F I R S T !!!
>
>I have found that at the 2 stores that I have been in, the prices are
>higher on SOMETHINGS.

This can be true of chain stores with outlets in various parts of town; I know
that here in Rochester, New York, some grocery items cost more in the "ritzy"
ends than in the areas where lots of food stamps are used.

Caveat emptor.
Katie
From: lfischer@aramis.rutgers.edu (Lfischer)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Built in bookcase kits?
Keywords: Where can I find some?
Date: 15 Sep 92 10:55:17 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

Homey depot now sells particle board covered with laminate for about
$20 a 4x8 sheet.  They have plans for just about anything.  Dont go
the plywood route if you have them in your neighborhood.

Larry Fischer
From: cjackso@uswnvg.com (Clay Jackson)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Which garage door opener to use?
Date: 4 Sep 92 21:36:57 GMT
Organization: U S WEST NewVector Group, Inc.
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5

Well, we've had two door openers, both from GENIE.  The first was a screw
drive that we had installed professionally (ie, by a company that 
SPECIALIZED in garage doors and openers).  The second is a GENIE
"Trac-driv" unit, purchased at a local hardware store and installed
by one of their contract installers.

The screw drive unit never gave us a bit of trouble, and was truly a
"professional quality" unit.  Our tenants (after we moved out) did 
manage to mess it up, but only by repeatedly hooking the door handle on
their car bumpers and/or closing the door on their cars.  The only
downside was the expense.  The "bottom-end" screw drive opener cost 
about twice what the "top-of-the-line" GENIE "GEnius" TRAC-DRIV unit
cost.  It had no bells/whistles (like a separate light or infared 
door block sensors.  OTOH, it worked well for the 5 years we had it.

The TRAC-DRIV units are trash.  They're NOISY, they require constant
adjustment, once you get the track messed up (as in release the emergency
release mechanism) it's VERY difficult to get 'em hooked back up).  In
the three years that we've had TWO (two doors), we've replaced one 
motor and both electronics units (all under GENIE's 5 year warranty,
thank goodness).

We'll probably get a Stanley the next time.....


--
Clay Jackson - N7QNM
US WEST NewVector Group Inc
Bellevue, WA
uunet!uswnvg!cjackso
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: wood@rtsg.mot.com (Dan Wood)
Subject: Re: Builder's Square ?
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 18:13:29 GMT

   We have Builder's Square(s) here (NW Chicago suburbs).  To
my knowledge, we don't have Home Depot(s).

   I've read several postings where people bought name-brand tools
and materials from Home Depot, including Delta stationary power
tools.  Builder's Square (BS) carries some (few) decent power hand
tools, anything stationary is junk.

   IMHO, BS carries whatever they can get cheap from suppliers.
This results in some good bargains, and a lot of junk.  Except when
a deal is too good to pass up, I avoid them "like the plague".

   I've also found that they offer some items at extremely low prices,
but the associated materials cost more than their competitors, making
the final price higher.  Example: when I built a fence they had
PT 2x4s very cheap, but when I compared the total cost of all the
materials against a local lumberyard, BS was almost $50 higher!  Plus
the quality of the wood from the lumberyard was better.

   I thought that Home Depot was a better supplier, after reading
postings describing their goods, and the helpful salespeople.  Maybe
BS is better where they have Home Depots to compete with.  :)

-- 
*********************************************************************************
*	Dan Wood   Motorola Inc.	*	 Moto and I disclaim       	*
*	wood@rtsg.mot.com 		*	 everything in this post.	*
*********************************************************************************
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: greg@netcom.com (Greg Bullough)
Subject: Re: Romex & Thinwall Answer
Date: Sat, 05 Sep 92 03:53:07 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 

In article <1992Sep5.012704.15564@adobe.com> vonzelow@adobe.com (Jon von Zelowitz) writes:
>
>2. Just put up a small piece of drywall, thus producing a "finished" wall.
>Then the problem is reduced to the usual "inside-a-wall" wiring. (Wire the
>outlet before installing the drywall, of course. :-) ) This is probably the
>easiest solution of all.
 
NO!!!!!
 
TWC is really cheap at HomeDepot/Base, is incredibly easy to
work with, and if you're only doing a little you can skip 
the bender and just use 90-degree fittings to turn the corners,
and it looks so very tidy.
 
Greg
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Still looking for a dishwasher
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 92 23:02:38 GMT

In article <1992Sep8.203823.14809@starbase.trincoll.edu> nmiller@starbase.trincoll.edu (norman miller) writes:
>As the one who asked the original question, I'm gratified that
>others besides me groaned at the sophomoric joke.  But I'm
>still waiting for an answer: does anyone know of a good basic
>dishwasher?

I have a Hotpoint. It was a "full sized" portable when I bought it; had
wheels, a connection hose, plug, and butcher-block top. That was in 1985.
When I remodeled my kitchen, I took the wheels and top off and moved it
under the counter. It's been dependable. It does a good job, but I still
have to pre-rinse stuff well. It does not have a pot-scrubber cycle. It's
a little noisy.

Based on my experience, I would not hesitate to recommend Hotpoint as a
manufacturer. Were I shopping for another one, I'd look at another Hotpoint
with more features.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | Americans are crazy. They drive on parkways
                    | and park in driveways.
                    |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Sound insulation for ceiling/floor:  ideas?
Keywords: sound insulation fibreglass