From: hinojosa@nado.hp.com (Daniel Hinojosa)
Subject: Re: Callin' all Zen Surf Masters
Organization: Hewlett Packard - N.A.D.O. Santa Clara, CA
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 21:08:45 GMT

In article <1992Aug17.174807.5322@brtph560.bnr.ca> kimmyd@bnr.ca (Kimmy Posey P920) writes:
> About a month ago I rented "Point Break" and ever since I can't get surfing
> out of my head.  When I stumbled on this group I lurked for a while and
> decided to ask a couple of questions:

Let's start with you choice of rentals. Truth? I haven't seen this. I have
heard that the surf part was okay. But you have better options. If you
really want to trash your current life, find yourself a copy of _Endless
Summer_ (okay, I liked it. It's old, but it captures a lot of the spirit of
what surfing is about). Better yet is _Five Summer Stories_ (+5?). I saw
this after I had already started surfing and have never really recovered...
Plus the music (by Honk) kicks ass.
 
> Is surfing truly different from other sports?  

As with anything, it is a matter of opinion. Ask surfers and you will get a
resounding affirmative. I used to play water polo. I thought that was killer
too though. A serious physical challenge, but purely competitive.

Some say that Polo (with horses...) is the 'sport of kings'. Like Hawaiian
Kings never surfed? Get a life. Surfing is really it. A true man with nature
sport that pits you against mom. Your life can depend on your skill. You can
have as much fun alone as with a group of close friends. You can be out with
someone you don't know and share some of your best experiences. 

>						Is there Something More to it
> than just paddlin' out into the surf and ridin' back in?

Absolutely. When do you paddle out? Where do you paddle out? What technique
do you use to get through the clean up sets? What do you do with yourself
while you are waiting for the next set? What do you do when you see native
life (dolpins, jelly fish, sharks(!), fish, etc...)? What to do about kelp?

Surfing for me was a life style. It drove how I thought, solved problems,
spoke with people, resolved conflicts. It left me with some of the most
awesome highs I have ever had in my life (usually when I was out of herbs...)
It is a matter of attitude on the part of the surfer. You can choose to be
totally agro about it: spearing kyakers, body boraders, pushing other
surfers off of their borads, running over other surfers. OR you can get your
share of waves and have a great time. Simple huh?
 
> Is it possible to dump your sappy eastern US, software designer job, go out
> to surf mecca and live like a native for the rest of you life?

If you can ever really define surf Mecca, let me know. Living like a native
anywhere but from where you are native is impossible. Once you accept that
though, you can adapt. And adapt you must elsewise you'll get shredded up by
the agro-surfers. As far as the east coast job? This may be too difficult to
over come... :-)
 
> Bottom line.  How does surfing affect the inner man?  Or does it at all?

_ <- that is the bottom line. :-) I've know some women who have never been
the same since they started surfing. For me? I haven't had a decent surf in
over 2 years. It has still affected me. I have surf posters in my home,
and office and stickers on my car. Others may call me a poser, but I know who
I am. I vividly remember the first time I stood up. The first tube I had.
The time I was almost killed at Blacks. The many times I've had a surf with
dolphins. Breaking my first board. Taking off on an 8 foot wave and getting
the ride of my life. Dozens of sunsets viewed from the deck of my board.
Kickouts into the sunset. These are the things that make me a surfer. They are
what have made me who I am. It gives me an energy any time I think about it.
At heart I will always be a surfer. Shit... I had my ears reamed out for
the love of surf. I'd do a lot within physical and financial reason to get
back to surfing at least every weekend again... 



-- 
       daniel hinojosa. email -=> hinojosa@nado.hp.com | Santa Clara, CA
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    Jesus Saves!... But Gretzky gets the rebound. He Shoots. He SCOOORES!!!