HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel)
Subject: Part source for DYI filters.
Originator: howardr@hplsdum.col.hp.com
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 22:09:25 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division

I am posting this to the net because I lost the mail from the netter
I need to respond to.  They expressed an interest in building a
filter similar to the type I use for Goldfish (high waste) tanks.

I buy my filter parts from MAIL ORDER PET SHOP.
Order and product info  tel 1-800-366-7387.

A3761	Magnum Micron Pleat Cartridge 4.39
A9957	Tetra "G" Pond Filter Replacement Foam 5.89
A5183	Maxi-jet 1000	14.89

I hope this is of help.
-- 
Howard Rebel hpcsos.col.hp.com 

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier)
Subject: Re: Nemos Live Food
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 92 16:33:16 GMT

Al Marti (marti@django.Colorado.EDU) wrote:
: that fish place's catalog advertises a live food called "nemos". among other
: things the add claims:
: 
: but they never quite tell you what "nemos" are.

"Nematodes" is a safe bet - tiny worms.

: has anyone had any experience with "nemos" before in either fresh or salt water?

I've never heard of or used "nemos" before, but microworms (a
nematode) are a great fry food that I have used.

Please, don't mock me if I've misspelled nematode - I cry inconsolably
whenever I get a spelling flame...

--
"They thought to use and shame me but I win out by nature, because a true
freak cannot be made.  A true freak must be born." - Geek Love

Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: russell@sun.soe.clarkson.edu (David Russell)
Subject: Re: Raccoon visitors
Organization: Clarkson University
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 23:20:03 GMT

From article <1992Sep14.194310.11235@morrow.stanford.edu>, by AS.CCB@forsythe.stanford.edu (Christopher Bekins):
>>>I have a small outdoor pool......  Recently some raccoons
>>>have acquired a taste for the fish in my pond.
>>>Don Gentner
>>
>> I guess a miniature electric fence would be out of the question?
>>Doug Hellmann
> 
> Maybe not.  I recently saw an ad in a "cat" magazine for a miniature
> electric "fence" (basically, a charged wire on short little posts)
.........
> can probably ask around at regular pet stores to get the info.
> Good luck,
> Christopher
 A farm store like Agway might be a lot cheaper. They carry all you
would need to set up an electric fence, and more. You would probably
want the smallest charger, and could make your own posts if they don't
have what you need. Just remember to get enough wire to go around
the pond a few times, because you're going to want to put the wires
at different heigths. If there is a way in they will find it so you
are going to have to plan ahead.
--
David M. Russell, Mechanical Eng. Dept.
Clarkson University, Potsdam, NY 13676
(315) 268-9806 
russell@sun.soe.clarkson.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: ffujita@s.psych.uiuc.edu (Frank Fujita)
Subject: Re: Speak for yourself (Was: Serpae Tetra beating goldfish)
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 06:21:56 GMT

oleg@Veritas.COM (Oleg Kiselev) writes:
>howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel) writes:
>>Fancy goldfish keeping and breeding is as valid as any other subdivision of
>>the hobby.  
>Yes, as valid as "parrot" cichlids, pearlscale angels, veil-fin tetras,
>barless tiger barbs, etc.  As I said before, it's a matter of aesthetics
>and people's ideas of what is attractive differ.

I didn't know that these fish (or any other fish) had as long a history
of domestication as the goldfish.  Where can I read up on these other
fish?  Aestehetics aside, are there any other reasons not to keep
certain types of fish?  Like is keeping any fish worse than say, a
flourscent orange castle with a set of flourscent green shark jaws
sitting in the middle of the tank?  Do the painted glass fish fit in
this category?

Frank Fujita
From: jeffc@starlake.East.Sun.COM (Jeff Choquette - Sun Syracuse, NY SE)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Sluggish Jack Dempseys
Date: 15 Sep 1992 14:48:06 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Distribution: world
Reply-To: jeffc@starlake.East.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: starlake.east.sun.com

I have a pair of Jack Dempseys who had a brood of about 100 babies a
couple of months ago.  The babies are now about 1/2 and inch long and
all seem very healthy.  The 2 parents seem very sluggish and don't
seem to be eating very much.  I've also noticed some white algae like
substance on the glass and it looks almost cotton like.  I tried 5 days
of the Maracyn-two with is supposed to be for fungus'.  They seemed
to be getting better but now they are back to where they were.  I am
trying some more Maracyn-two along with Maracyn  since they are complementary.
The ammonia and nitrate levels are fine.  Does anyone know what this white
algae is and is it related to my problem.  Also how come the babies seem
to be fine.  All of these fish are in one half of a 55 Gallon tank with
a pink convict and a cat fish in the other half.

Thanks
Jeff


---
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jeff Choquette			Email:  jeff.choquette@east.sun.com
Systems Engineer		Phone:  (315) 445-0390
Sun Microsystems		Fax:    (315) 445-1297
5788 Widewaters Parkway
Dewitt, NY 13214

From: booth@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (George Booth)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 18:06:23 GMT
Subject: Re: Lighting: Why spend big $?
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria

In rec.aquaria, gt6441c@prism.gatech.EDU (Jon Edwards ) writes:

    I have always been under the impression that Quartz Halogen lights
    are not Metal Halides.  Metal Halides are usually huge egg-shaped
    bulbs that screw into sockets and have all kinds of neat little envelopes
    and wires inside of them.

You are correct.

--------
George
From: sik@grosz.esd.sgi.com (Seth Katz)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Electric  cats?
Date: 11 Sep 92 00:38:09 GMT
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc., Mountain View, CA, USA

Hi

Anyone here keep electric cats?

My local, usually knowledgeable, store says 
they are good cats for aggressive cichlids.
Others say they paralyze and kill cichlids,
regardless of their behavior.  

My local says I am in no danger of being hurt
by them, especially if I don't touch head and 
tail at the same time.  They also say I can put in
anything larger than the cat's mouth.

Does anyone have experience with these cats?
=-s
From: sh240031@wvnvms.wvnet.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Does grounding the sump work?
Date: 9 Sep 92 20:44:56 GMT
Organization: West Virginia Network for Educational Telecomputing

In article <1992Sep9.161806.23697@cs.ucla.edu>, jason@lanai.cs.ucla.edu (Jason Rosenberg) writes:
>>I guess my explanation was poor.  The voltage measured in each case done by
>>putting a volt meter in the circut between the electrode and the ground screw. 
>>this in effect measured the voltage traveling between the tank/sump and the
>>ground via the electrode.  Hope this clarifies things.
> 
> Actually, you have reasserted what you said before, and I am still a little 
> confused.  This is what I understand you to be saying:
> 
> You have an electrode in your water connected directly to a ground screw.  
> Thus, there is a direct wire connection between your electrode and ground 
> (very low resistance).  Now, you take a voltmeter, and place one probe on the 
> electrode in the water, and the other proble on the ground screw.  Then you
> measure more than 70 volts.  

Ok. Let me try this again.  I disconnected the wire from the screw.  I attached 
on end of the volt meter to the disconnected wire and the other end to the
ground screw.  This effectively measures the voltage from the tank, into the
electrode, through the meter(~70 VAC) into the ground screw.
                                                            

				Carl
From: rosentha@bldrdoc.gov (Peter Rosenthal 303-497-5844)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Lighting: Why spend big $?
Date: 11 Sep 92 19:41:08 GMT
Organization: National Institute of Standards and Technology

In article <vnrao.715199561@teja.cs.ucf.edu> vnrao@teja.cs.ucf.edu (Nageshwara Rao Vempaty) writes:
>
>
> If you are willing to experiment, get a 300W quartz halogen, 75 W Mercury 
>Vapor/Sodium vapor (and may be one 48" triton though not really necessary) 
>and go for an open top if possible.  This MH + MV combo will provide Xtra high 
>watts and  has enough spikes all over the spectrum. Should cost you <$50.
>I use a 300W QH + a 48" generic fluorescent and my plants love it. Not to 
>mention that it throws deep shadows and illuminates the whole room.
>
>VNRao

Uh,  It may be true that the capital outlay for this combination is around
50 dollars, but the cost of the electricity might ream you real bad.

At 10 hours a day, 365 days a year, and 10 cents/KWH, just the 300
Watt quartz halogen bulb alone will convert $109 into heat each year.

Metal halides, mercury vapors and flourescents with electronic ballasts are
all much much more efficient and will save you money over quartz halogen
lamps in the medium term.  Another factor to consider is that very little 
of the
spectrum of the quartz halogen bulbs is photosynthetically active, and
therefore you need much more wattage to get a given amount of growth than
you would with bulbs with better spectra.

I have experimented with flourescents, mercury vapors and sunlight.
The best combination I have found is sunlight plus fluorescent.

I have a tank (34 gallon), half of which is lit by a pendant wonderlight
(a self ballasted mercury vapor lamp 160 Watts), and half is lit by 
a 15 watt ultralume and a window.  The window gives the tank direct sun
in the late afternoon for about 3 hours a day depending on the season.
The plants in the sunlit side are much lusher and healthier looking.

Everybodies growing though.  No CO2, but using the dupla fertilizers
at 1/4 strength.

Peter Rosenthal


-- 
Peter Rosenthal       Email rosenthal@cmg.eeel.nist.gov

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: russell@sun.soe.clarkson.edu (David Russell)
Subject: Re: Raccoon visitors
Organization: Clarkson University
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1992 01:01:53 GMT

From article <hellmann.716216681@sycamore.cs.scarolina.edu>, by hellmann@cs.scarolina.edu (Douglas R Hellmann):
> gentner@wiesental.Eng.Sun.COM (Don Gentner) writes:
> 
>>I have a small outdoor pool with some goldfish and a koi.  Recently some raccoons
>>have acquired a taste for the fish in my pond.  I currently have the pond covered
>>with hardware cloth, but that looks ugly and ruins my interaction with the fish.
>>Any ideas for how to keep the raccoons at bay short of termination with extreme
>>prejudice?
> 
>>Thanks.
>>Don Gentner
> 
> My vote is for termination.  I don't have much experience with racoons, but I
> understand that they are pretty intelligent little critters, so I guess a
> miniature electric fence would be out of the question?
> 
> Doug Hellmann
> hellmann@cs.scarolina.edu
 
Termination gets my vote too. My parents encountered a similar experience
with thier ducks. Something was getting in and killing thier nesting
ducks. It was getting in through an entrance which couldn't be located
in a 5 foot fence. There were no signs of how they were getting in, so
they are pretty smart at getting around obsticles. My brother-in-law
traps, so the very first night the critter was caught. You could use
a humane trap, but I suspect they will find their way back unless you
take them FAR away.
--
David M. Russell, Mechanical Eng. Dept.
Clarkson University, Potsdam, NY 13676
(315) 268-9806 
russell@sun.soe.clarkson.edu
From: spz@specklec.mpifr-bonn.mpg.de (S.P.Zeidler)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Tetra CO2 System? Lights?
Date: 6 Sep 92 16:36:43 GMT
Organization: Max-Planck-Institut f"ur Radioastronomie

>In rec.aquaria, wls@cray.csd.uwm.edu (Bill Stapleton) writes:
>I was surprised to see a Tetra CO2 injection system in the store last night.
>I didn't see much of it - They were apparently using it in a couple of tanks,
>but only the plastic "bells" inside the tank were visible.  I saw the "master
>kit", in a box, in a display case, with a $250 price tag.  That's about all I

Is this the kit that contains a CO2 diffusion bell, some CO2-tight tubing
and a hair-spray sized can with CO2, to be operated manually ?
Are you sure the price tag wasn't really $25 ? The stuff I described is
the only Tetra CO2 kit I have seen yet (which doesn't say that much), and
that comes for 35DM at the local fish-shop, refill can for about 10DM
if I remember right. The kit is for <= 50l (10gl) tanks, where a
'real' CO2 kit would cost more than the rest of the tank together.
Dennerle makes something that looks much the same, but has continuous
CO2 supply (guess follows) coming from some yeast munching away
at a blue-colored sugar gel, at a slightly higher price.

regards,
	spz
-- 
        spz is S.Petra Zeidler  Copyright 1992 S.Petra Zeidler
spz@specklec.mpifr-bonn.mpg.de  
 MPI fuer Radioastronomie Bonn  
    Auf dem Huegel 69, Germany  reading prescription: cum kilo salis
From: szymanski@uni-duesseldorf.de (Klaus Szymanski)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Plants
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 07:05:41 GMT
Organization: Universitaetsrechenzentrum, Heinrich-Heine-Universitaet Duesseldorf
NNTP-Posting-Host: szymanski.rz.uni-duesseldorf.de

In article <1992Sep9.222857.1469@midway.uchicago.edu> frank@invincible.bsd.uchicago.edu (& Esquivel) writes:
>From: frank@invincible.bsd.uchicago.edu (& Esquivel)
>Subject: Plants
>Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 22:28:57 GMT


>Hi All,

>I have a 30 gallon FW tank with different types of gouramis in it.  Right  
>now it just consists of regular aquarium gravel, rocks and a few plastic  
>plants.  I've been thinking about switching to live plants.  Can anyone  
>give me any info on how and what is required to switch to live plants.   
>Also, what type of plants would be good to start off with.  I change 20%  
>of the water a week and vacuum the gravel thoroughly every 2 weeks.  Will  
>this have an affect on live plants?  Also, has anyone kept plants in small  
>pots in the gravel so during cleaning they would not be uprooted?

>Thanks much for any help available.

>Frank
Start with Crytocoryne affinis for instance, throw away you plastic plants 
and do not clean the gravel. Plants need time to grow, they have a sensible 
system of roots being destroyed by cleaning the gravel. My tank is running 
for 7 years now without cleaning the gravel (nobody in Germany would have 
the idea to do this).

Klaus Szymanski
Universitaetsrechenzentrum
Heinrich-Heine-Universitaet Duesseldorf
Universitaetsstr. 1 
D-4000 Duesseldorf
From: steve@celia.UUCP (Steve Tyree)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: corals fighting.
Date: 11 Sep 92 18:16:43 GMT
Reply-To: celia!steve@usc.edu (Steve Tyree)
Organization: Rhythm & Hues, Inc., Hollywood

In article <V01wqB1w165w@aqua.ocunix.on.ca> cowan@aqua.ocunix.on.ca (Darin Cowan (root)) writes:
> I noticed my first problem today.  Even though the goniopora and
> the elegance coral are almost a foot apart, when both fully
> inflate, they touch each other.  I noticed rapid retraction of
> the goniopora polyps when their tenticles are stuck to those of
> the elegance.  The elegance doesn't seem to mind about, but
> the goniopora polyps that were stung certainly stay retracted
> for a while.
> 
> My question.  Anyone has an idea of relative aggressiveness between
> the corals?

 I have 3 Goniporas and 3 Elegances in a 180 gallon reef. One gonipora 
is a new juvenile bud which is still going strong (5 months old now).
The parent Gonipora for this bud extends out to a foot in diameter.
This brings it right next to an elegance which has a base skeleton
about 10 inches wide. The Gonipora can retract quickly and should keep
its polyp just out of reach of the elegance. The elegance dosent seem
to have special long range stinging tentacles like bubbles or ancora
corals have. So far I have not had problems. This is not a universal
truth however. Keep an eye out for trouble.
 As far as keeping them alive. No nitrates and No phosphates. Using all
the usual additives and 5 percent water changes weekly. I have noticed
that these corals always expand out farther right after I change the 
water. I dont know if this is due to a chemical which is being used up
or due to less poluted water.
 I have recently added high quality live rock to 1/3 of the reef and have
removed dead base rock from the initial installation of the reef. I re-
moved lots of detritus from the bottom and rear area of the tank. Also,
I am starting to install elevated pvc matrix for better water flow. This
extra work was not done for the Gonipora, its for even more difficult to
keep corals. A recent article in MFM dealing with hair algae problems
noted that phosphates can be stored up in stagnant areas of the reef
and then released slowly. You need to remove detritus quite often even
if you measure no phosphates on low range test kits.
 PS - Use a large efficient protein skimmer.

 Steve Tyree - Reef Breeder
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: krogers@javelin.sim.es.com (K. Rogers)
Subject: Re: Coral Aggression Chart (WAS: Re: corals fighting)
Reply-To: krogers@javelin.sim.es.com
Organization: Evans & Sutherland Computer Corp., Salt Lake City, Utah
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 21:20:15 GMT

Okay, I'll throw in a couple observations from my tank.  The toughest
critter hands down is the bubble tip anemone (Entacmaea quadricolor).
All animal life forms including the aquarium owner wither at a touch
from this baby.  Since this #^$(&*!$ anemone is so (^&%&* big it has
had a chance to sting everything in the tank at some point.  It can
easily stretch over a 1 1/2' radius and my tank floor is only 4'x2'.
It essentually owns an entire half of the tank by itself.

The various "plague" soft corals, i.e. the ones that reproduce like
rabbits in my tank - Anthelia, Parazooanthus, Palythoa, etc, don't
seem to bother anything or each other.  Mushroom corals fall in this
same category.  Also, a large open brain (7" hemisphere) comes in
contact with two species of mushroom corals with nodoby on either side
bothered.  Bubble coral beat up open brain the one time I had them
close enough for that.  I've never had my elegance close to anything
except the (^&%%*& anemone so I can't tell how tough it is relative to
other critters in the tank.  I don't have a Goniopora.

As an interesting side note, I have a mystery anemone that came on a
rock with green star polyps as a 1" baby.  It is now 5" across and
bumps into the Tridacna crocea most of the daylight hours.  The
interesting part is that the clam squirts a powerful jet of water
sideways out one end to push the anemone away when it gets too
obnoxious.  However, the anemone tenticles rub against the mantle of
the clam for extended periods with no apparent ill effect observed.


Anybody want a 16" diameter bubble tip anemone with paired tomato
clowns?
-- 
Keith Rogers
krogers@javelin.sim.es.com
From: satilley@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: More licensing Q's
Date: 7 Sep 92 18:20:39 GMT
Organization: Miami University Academic Computer Service"

Thanks for all the e-mail about the licensing.

I have another question....  What do ya'll think about having some type of
certification?  I mean, we make one and try to get it to fly, so to speak.


Thanks.

-- 
Anne Kaelber satilley@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu
Miami University
Oxford, Ohio
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: mvp@hsv3.lsil.com (Mike Van Pelt)
Subject: Re: Bala sharks
Keywords: none
Organization: LSI Logic/Headland Technology
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 19:17:32 GMT

In article <1992Sep5.231132.9445@en.ecn.purdue.edu> wmack@en.ecn.purdue.edu (William J Mack) writes:
>A few of the previous articles had some discussion about bala sharks, which

I'd just like to know how to keep the suckers alive.  I've got a 100
gallon tank with lots of happy cardinal tetras, rasboras, etc., which
continue to live long, healthy lives.  However, any bala shark put into
the tank sickens and dies in a few weeks.  Other fish do fine.

I'd just say "OK, no more bala sharks", except my wife loves them,
and keeps buying them.
-- 
Mike Van Pelt                          Here lies a Technophobe,
LSI Logic/Headland Products               No whimper, no blast.
sun!indetech!hsv3!mvp                  His life's goal accomplished,
mvp@hsv3.lsil.com                         Zero risk at last.
From: steve@celia.UUCP (Steve Tyree)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: [M][R] Live Rock Farming
Keywords: live rock coral reef breeding
Date: 10 Sep 92 17:53:27 GMT
Reply-To: celia!steve@usc.edu (Steve Tyree)
Organization: Rhythm & Hues, Inc., Hollywood


 The new issue of FAMA has a very interesting editorial article. I forgot
to bring the magazine into work so I will try to remember the details.
A new company has formed which sells reef breeding systems based on the
algae scrubber tanks described in the Academic Book Dynamic Aquaria. These
systems unfortunately sell for 100,000 for the first 625 system which in-
cludes support and other goodies, each additional tank costs ~ 20,000 US.
The company name might be ECO-Systems or something similar. The first systems
are primarily intended to grow and farm live rock which can be sold and
used as the base rock for captove reefs. They predict that about 10,000 $
of live rock can be seeded and sold per year. The system apparently is de-
signed to allow the entire food chain (planktons) to exist. This is no
doubt due to the algae scrubber method of filtration. The author also men-
tions that a similar system is being used in the Australian Great Barrier
Reef Park, and that synchronous coral spawning has occured in the tank with
spawning on the reef. This was reported here also by Jamie Oliver. He did
not mention the algae scrubber system however.
 Anyway, the price of the system is steep but it sounds like an excellent
idea. Apparently the company wants to establish locally based live rock
breeders who also might be used as distributors for other captive breed
reef organism. The system themselves are quoted as being capable of pro-
pagating many reef organisms. Its sounds like they may be hyping the ca-
pabilities of the system a little however, I applaud the efforts. Imagine,
we could purchase captive grown live rock without nasty organisms in them.

 Steve Tyree - Reef Breeder
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: sloan@cis.uab.edu (Kenneth Sloan)
Subject: Re: Snails (was Question....)
Organization: CIS, University of Alabama at Birmingham
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 16:18:57 GMT

In article <1992Sep8.143628.3140@col.hp.com> howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel) writes:
>This pops up every once in a while.  I do not like adding chemicals to
>my tanks to kill snails.

Hear! Hear!

>...  To reduce a large snail population I bait
>the snails with lettus or zukinni(sp).  Leave the bait in the tank till
>it is convered with snails then remove it and the snails.  Add new bait
>to the tank and ...

This works, but is just a shade too complex for my simple tastes.
Here's what I do:

(but first, my biases - I *like* Malaysian Trumpets.  I usually tolerate
a few small ramshorns.  Pond snails receive maximum priority death
sentences) 

*every time my hands are in the water, for whatever reason, I consider
"are there too many snails in here?"  

*if the answer is "yes" then there are always several snails in easily
accessible places.  (if they aren't easy to get at, then by my
definition there aren't "too many")

*Using the world famous "two finger method" - I remove as many as I can
conveniently reach.

This method will completely clear a tank in a few weeks.  Repeat as
needed.


-- 
Kenneth Sloan                   Computer and Information Sciences
sloan@cis.uab.edu               University of Alabama at Birmingham
(205) 934-2213                  115A Campbell Hall, UAB Station 
(205) 934-5473 FAX              Birmingham, AL 35294-1170
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria