HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: bhm@reef.cis.ufl.edu (Bruce H. McIntosh)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Hiding subs
Date: 20 Aug 92 00:24:27 GMT
Organization: /cis/lightning1/bhm/.organization
In-reply-to: smennitt@oasys.dt.navy.mil's message of 12 Aug 92 12:25:48 GMT

I've got a '79 Fairmont.  My solution is (currently untried owing to lack
of funds, but Real Soon Now (TM) :-) ) to build baffles behind the plastic
side panels of the cargo area and mounting the subs in the side panels.  If
you're caref+#8|X0\M>)YKM"%0 k:Hon+vaggggh!  Line noise!  Anyhow, if you're careful about your construction, the whole apparatus can fit inside the cheezy 
side panels, and noone's the wiser that you've got happenin' bass! :-)
--
Bruce H. McIntosh    bhm@cis.ufl.edu                        Jesus has risen!
                     dhbhm@nervm.nerdc.ufl.edu
                     brucem@neufhou.mail.ufl.edu
 UF Housing user support on IBM Aggravation System/400 :-)
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"To compel a man to furnish funds for the propagation of ideas he disbelieves
and abhors is sinful and tyrannical."  Thomas Jefferson
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: jkonecn@andy.bgsu.edu (Joe Konecny)
Subject: Chevy truck stereos
Keywords: chevy
Organization: Bowling Green State University B.G., Oh.
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 03:19:28 GMT

A friend of mine was at a car show a while ago with a friend who owns a new  
(91 or 92) Chevy fullsize pickup.  He said a guy stopped by who told them
he could make his stereo (factory, digital) sound louder for five bucks. 
They said go for it and this guy got in and punched a few buttons on the deck 
and it was then louder than it used to be at full volume.  Does anyone know 
this trick?  I install lots (100's) car stereos (mostly low end) and would
love to know this.
Organization: North Dakota Higher Education Computer Network
Date: Wednesday, 12 Aug 1992 22:19:22 CDT
From: <UD180926@NDSUVM1.BITNET>
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Whistling Port

Hello all.  I just have a simple question.  What is the best way that
anyone has found to eliminate the whistling from a port.  The box in
particular that I am thinking of is a 4th order bandpass with the drivers
sharing the same front chamber.  The port is 4"x4".  I have read and heard
that rounding the edges on the port will do.  Is this the best way?  Any input
would ber appreciated.  Please respond via E-Mail.

Brad Stone
UD180926 @ NDSUVM1
From: keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov (Larry Keys)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: a/d/s Amplifiers
Date: 19 Aug 92 12:24:24 GMT
Organization: National Institute of Standards & Technology

Hello,

Thanks to all those who responded to my query about a/d/s amps.  Most
of the guys who responded had a/d/s equipment and gave a/d/s high marks.
The only "gripes" that some of the respondents had were:

	-	The use of DIN connectors used with some of
		the a/d/s amps. (DIN used instead of RCA)

	-	The dollars to watts ratio (i think)

	-	And one person felt that a/d/s amps are anemic
		when it came to satisfying any bass needs, but
		were excellent in the middle to high end of the
		music spectrum.    



*	 (I thought that an amp should be clean and not
	 "color" the music.  The specifications indicate
	 that frequency response is from 20k - 20k.)
		

	       Any opinions on a/d/s and bass response?



Well, i pretty much had my mind made up anyway.  I guess i wanted to hear
from other a/d/s owners.  Prior to soliciting opinions on the net, i 
ordered the a/d/s PH15.2 from Sound City for $489.

BTW, Robert Lau, it sounds as if you have an impressive system.  Sure would
like to hear it.
                                                  .              
                                                 /                
Larry                            __/    ______ /                  
keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov       /                \                 
                         _ _ _      __      _____  \------- ===   
            ---------- /  __ /    /  /    /__  __/            \   
         /            /  / ____  /  /       / /                |  
        |            / /___/  / /  /__   __/ /__              /   
        /_____       \______/  /_____ / /______/        --- ////   
             \_____           2 liter 16v       \_______/         

                                                                              
                            lb.'N  till it Hz
From: bclark@jupiter.chi.il.us (Brian Clark)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Alternator whine help needed
Date: 19 Aug 92 09:42:59 GMT
Organization: Jupiter Systems

In article <1992Aug17.123733.3198@ducvax.auburn.edu>, lambedb@ducvax.auburn.edu
writes:
>I am having trouble eliminating alternator whine in my
>'86 LeBarron.  I have tried the most obvious solutions such
>as common ground on all components, capacitor/choke combinations
>on the power leads, etc.  I still have just enough whine to notice
>when playing at somewhat low volumes.  A friend of mine made a
>...[other stuff deleted]

I've found that some audio components introduce more alternator whine than
others, its generally the cheaper quailty/price ones, but not always.  And
although there are better ways to fix the install, if you are looking for
a simple/cheap fix, I suggest you try adding an audio system ground loop
isolator on the RCA lines inbetween your head-unit and amps or crossover.
You can get one or more (one for front, one for rear, etc...) from Radio
Shack for $10.95  ( Catalog #270-054 ).  These have had very pleasing
results from a number of different people who I know are using them.

They are very simple to hook up, they don't require any power leads, just
plug them inbetween on the RCA signal lines.  Its just a simple one-to-one
matching transformer.  If you're not satisfied for some reason, you can
likely return it (assuming it can be re-packaged neatly) for a refund.

Stupid Disclaimer: I'm not affiliated with Radio Shack in any way, just
a happily satisfied customer with these thing-a-ma-gigs.  (They work in
troublesome home audio systems also (esp. isolation from computer noise
if you output your computer's sound to the stereo).

--
Brian Clark            bclark@jupiter.chi.il.us
From: baylor@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Baylor)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: what's a good car?
Date: 22 Aug 92 18:46:46 GMT
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin, Austin TX


	My wife and i are thinking of buying a new car and wonder what's
good to install in?
	We are cheap and are therefore looking at a base eclipse, integra
or maybe a saturn, accord or sentra.
From: adammot@ltrnativ.UUCP (Adam Mottershead)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Dealing with Dealers
Date: 11 Aug 92 18:11:16 GMT
Reply-To: adammot@ltrnativ.UUCP (Adam Mottershead)
Organization: The All Ter Nah Tive Un Der Groend
News-Software: FSUUCP 1.2 R4
X-Mailer: DigiQR 5.38b

Well, it seems that we have an interesting discussion on dealers here.

In the Brampton area (just north of Toronto) there are a few car audio
shops, but most of them are your typical scamming outfits.

One such shop, which shall remain nameless, is a total ripoff.  From what
I hear the shop was originally owned by one guy who then sold it to another.

I had been in the store when the original owner had the shop, and I must say
that I was impressed.  The guy was really friendly, helpful, and help me
sort out a few beginner questions I had about car audio.

About four or five months later I returned, and found out the shop had been
purchased by a new owner.  Of course with the new owner came the multitude of
flashly neon signs, groups of kids loitering around the place, and high
prices.  I went there to get an estimate on the repair of a Sony XE-90 EQ
which I bought at a police auction for $5.  What was wrong with the EQ was
that the on/off switch was busted.

The new owner pulled the button off (which I didn't know how to do), looked
inside and told me "This ain't going to be no $10 repair, we are talking
at least $70 for it.  The whole switch assembly has to be replaced".  It
seemed a little fishy.  So when I hopped back into my car, I pulled the cover
off the subwoofer on/off switch, and I discovered all that was missing was
two clear plastic tabs which just lie between the switch cover and the switch
itself.  Definitely a scam.

About two months ago, I installed a pair of Sony 8" tri-axials in the back.  I
purchased them just before the new year.  After installing them, I noticed a
scraping sound from one.  It appeared that metal shavings from the
manufacturing process had fallen down into the voicecoil.

Now I decided to give this dealership a second chance.  I went back, same guy
again.  Showed him the speaker and the problem.  He said "looks like a burnt
voicecoil", I told him about the metal filings and he said again that it was
the voicecoil coming apart.  I then enquired about getting the speaker cleaned
out somehow and he said (which is true) that the only way to get inside them
is to crack them open, then they are useless.  So I said I was lucky that the
speakers were still under warranty, he told me Sony wouldn't cover such a
thing and then he guy then proceeded to try and sell me some new speakers,
as if I had money to burn.

But the big dinger was when I was about to leave.  He asked me "Do you want me
to trash that speaker for you, as it is useless you know".  I laughed and
walked out.

--
Adam Mottershead                      |
39 Havelock Drive                     |
Brampton, Ontario                     |             adammot@ltrnativ.UUCP
Canada, L6W 4K8                       |
+1 416 454 8597                       |
                                                                          --
From: collin@angelo.amd.com (Collin K. Ong)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Need box size/response from T-S parameters
Date: 14 Aug 92 20:13:36 GMT
Organization: Advanced Micro Devices, Santa Clara, CA

I have some woofer specs but don't have access to my reference books on
speaker design right now.  Could somebody do a quick calculation on these
specs and email me the rundown for these woofers in sealed and ported boxes,
such as low end cutoff, box size, etc.

The specs are:
10" DVC woofer
Fs=46.0Hz
Qts=0.43
Vas=2.2 ft^3
Xmax=0.19
Pe=75W cont.

If I measured 7 ohms across each individual coil does this necessarily
mean that the driver is 8 ohm rated?  Are there pros and cons for using
8 ohm drivers in a car?  I'd like one that could be used in both, ideally.

Thanks alot!
Collin Ong
collin@brahms.amd.com
From: xepama@usmi02.midland.chevron.com (P.Mann)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Repair or replace?
Date: 18 Aug 92 17:45:08 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: chevron


Hope this isn't too trivial for this newsgroup.  The Blaupunkt AM/FM/cassette
unit which came with my used VW broke.  The chasis which holds the cassettes
during play is in the play position all the time whether holding a tape
or not.  The only way I can get the radio on or insert a tape is to press
and hold the eject button.

Does this sound like an easy or difficult fix, as I suspect the problem is
purely mechanical?  More importantly, is it worth fixing?  I don't know the
specific model, but it's at least 6 years old.

E-mail responses are appreciated.  Thanks.
-- 
Parker Mann                    xepama@usmi02.midland.chevron.com
 
"Keep those cards and letters."
From: kirk@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Kirk Lindstrom)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: <>HERE'S HOW TO MAIL ORDER!!!!<>
Date: 22 Aug 92 07:11:31 GMT
Organization: Shredding the water of SF Bay, HP-OCD


 Do they have a Yamaha DSP-A1000 and how much do they want?

Thanks
Kirk out
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: gnut@lrs.e-technik.uni-erlangen.de (Stefan Schleifer)
Subject: High End System in BMW 520 - which?
Organization: LRS
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 1992 13:28:31 GMT

Hi,

i am getting a BMW 520 in Oktober from my firm and i want to replace the
standard sound system with a better one.

Does anybody have an experience of a hint what i have to look for? 

What i really WANT to have is CD (not CD-changer!!) and RDS in the radio.

Kenwood? Sony?

Greetings
Stefan

Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: frank@owlnet.rice.edu (Frank T. Kang)
Subject: Re: Polyfill
Organization: Rice University
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 18:42:30 GMT

In article <3360@master.CNA.TEK.COM> frankb@chip.tek.com (Frank Bordon  436) writes:
>I'm sorry if this has been covered recently but I have some questions
>about speaker box fill (polyfill).
>
>I've heard that it can be used to increase the apparent size of a sub
>box. I have limited space and am wondering if polyfill would be useful.
>I have a couple of questions:

For the price, polyfill works very well.  Don't use fiberglass though,
it doesn't work too well.

>1. How much does speaker fill increase the apparent size of the box? 10%? 20%?

It depends on how densely you put it in.  You do need to put a lot in.
The figures I've heard estimate theoretical box increase of 30%, but
counting 15% is more reasonable and achievable.  The way I use this
increase is to make the dimensions of the inside of the box exactly
what I need.  Then I figure the gain will make up for the bracing and
the rear of the driver that take up space.

>2. Can it be used with ported enclosures or just sealed enclosures?

Yes, it can be used with both.  Just keep the stuff away from the ports
and rear of the driver.

>3. How much of it do you use? Do you fill the box completely?

Lots.  You have put a fair amount of it in.  I used about 1 lb/cu.ft, but
probably should have used more.  In other words, the box needs more than
loose filling of polyfill, it should be fairly dense.

Frank Kang
From: granteri@pnet51.orb.mn.org (Grant Erickson)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Pioneer Premier Headunit For Sale
Date: 18 Aug 92 04:55:55 GMT
Organization: People-Net [pnet51], Minneapolis, MN.

!!! FOR SALE !!!

Pioneer Premier KE-450QR Pullout DIN Cassette Headunit

Condition:      Like new. Owned for only 9 months. I am selling in order to
                upgrade to a CD headunit. Perfect as a stand-alone 
                headunit, or as a front end for a single or multi-amp system. 
                Sold complete with headunit, mounting sleeve, related
                hardware, box, manual, receipt, and warranty (2 Years).

Price:  $199.00 ($250 new from Audio King, $352 Pioneer MSRP)
                -or-  make a reasonable offer.

o Features:     Removable chassis, Quartz PLL Supertuner III, 18 FM & 6 AM
                presets with preset scan, Best Stations Memory, auto/local 
                seek, auto reverse, Dolby B, Music Search, Metal Tape EQ,
                separate bass and treble controls, loudness, 4 speaker
outputs,
                remote +12V output, fader, 1 pair Gold Plated RCA preamp
                outputs, gold plated chassis contacts, and amber illumination.

o Specifications (Again, for those who care):

Amplifier Section (EIAJ Rating)
  Maximum Power Output               8.5W x 2 / 7W x 4
  Continuous Power Output                     3.2 W/Ch

FM Tuner Section
  FM Sensitivity                                11 dBf
  FM 50 dB Quieting Sensitivity                 16 dBf
  Alternate Channel Selectivity (+-400kHz)      70 dB
  3-Signal Intermodulation                      55 dBf

Cassette Secion
  Wow & Flutter                              .13%/WRMS
  Signal to Noise Ratio                         55 dB
                                      (Dolby B) 63 dB
  Tape Frequency Response    (Metal) 50 Hz - 20,000 Hz

If you are interested in this, or would like to make an offer, please leave
E-Mail to the address below or call 1-612-633-3635. 

 
Grant Erickson
 
UUCP:  {crash tcnet petrus quest}!orbit!pnet51!granteri
-or-      
UUCP:  granteri@pnet51.orb.mn.org
From: trw@spl1.spl.loral.com (Tim R Witort)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: <>HERE'S HOW TO MAIL ORDER!!!!<>
Date: 20 Aug 92 22:56:03 GMT
Organization: Loral Software Productivity Laboratory

In article <1992Aug20.154728.1@ulkyvx.louisville.edu>, cl314407@ulkyvx.louisville.edu writes:

|> Oh, yeah, one note:  Their selection is somewhat limited, so don't expect to
                              ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
|> find an extravaganza.  The selection is huge, tho', as CompuServe accesses
                              ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
|> the Manufacturer.

  So which is it? Limited or huge? %\)

|> 	Tom (CL314407@ULKYVX.LOUISVILLE.EDU)

-- Tim
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: smills@news.weeg.uiowa.edu (MuffinHead)
Subject: Re: Plans for making WOOFER BOXES
Keywords: woofer
Organization: University of Iowa, Iowa City, IA, USA
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 08:40:11 GMT

shing@tramp.Colorado.EDU (shing) writes:

>Anyone know of any magazines that have plans on how to make boxes
>for woofers (2x15")?

Get a book from Radio Shack titled "Building Speaker Enclosures". It's all
pretty easy to figure out.
-- 
_____________________________________________________________________________
$ smills@umaxc.weeg.uiowa.edu $ That's the way it crumbles... cookie-wise.  $
$ MuffinHed@aol.com           $          -Jack Lemmon, "The Apartment"      $
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: ldormon
Subject: Earthquake subs
Reply-To: ldormon@uk.oracle.com
Organization:  Oracle Corp.
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 14:23:32 GMT
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by an unauthenticated user
              at Oracle Corporation.  The opinions expressed are those
              of the user and not necessarily those of Oracle.

Hello all
	As anyone out there in netland heard of  Earthquake stuff,  I'm about to do an
upgrade and was going to use 2 JBL 1500gti's, when I heard the demo of the earthquake stuff.
Pretty impressive and cheaper too, but will they last ? Any info on earthquake greatly appreciated
or should I stick with the gerbils.

Cheers alot 
Lee D

Ps JBL 1500gti about 270 quid, Earthquake 15" about 200 quid, are these prices a rip off ?

		          PASSION, GRACE & SERIOUS BASS		
ldormon@uk.oracle.com
From: blake@wk60.nas.nasa.gov (Matthew W. Blake)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: popping noise question
Date: 17 Aug 92 18:22:40 GMT
Organization: NAS, NASA Ames Research Center, Moffett Field, CA

I just installed a Soundstream TCA-40 AM/FM/Cassette player in my
Jensen Healey.  The radio functions fine, but while playing a tape
there is a noticable popping sound that changes frequency with
engine speed.  No popping noise if engine not running, no popping
noise when using the radio.

The Soundstream was in a BMW for a year with no problems or popping.

The Soundstream's amp outputs to a Sony amp/equalizer that then drives the 
four speakers.  The Jensen used to have a Blaupunct(sp?) AM/FM/Cassette
which got tired so it was replaced with this Soundstream but I kept
the Sony amp and same speakers.  The Blau. never popped with engine speed.

The Sony and the Soundstream are driven from the same power lead and
are grounded to the same point on the car chassis.

Suggestions to alleviate this problem?

Thanks in advance,

Matt Blake
blake@nas.nasa.gov
From: tom@dynamo.ecn.purdue.edu (Tom McCain)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: a/d/s Amplifiers
Date: 18 Aug 92 16:49:37 GMT
Organization: Purdue University, West Lafayette, IN

keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov (Larry Keys) writes:

: Hello,

: Is there anyone out there who has an opinion on a/d/s amps?

Yes.

: So, is there anyone out there who has a/d/s amps, or has anyone seen/read
: any evaluations of their amps.

I have a a/d/s P80.  2-3 generations old.  I've been using it since it
was new to power 1 pair of 6x9's.  Basically, it has just sat there and
preformed flawlessly for three/four years!  The only problem with a/d/s
(if it's a problem) is that they generally put out much cleaner power
than *most* of their competition does.  So if you try to install it
with other amps you may have turn it back a bit.
--

Tom McCain 
tom@ecn.purdue.edu
Xref: sparky rec.audio.car:3271 rec.audio:11443
From: pauls@ctron.com (Paul Simoneau)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car,rec.audio
Subject: Re: RCA cable & active crossover questions
Date: 12 Aug 92 14:56:22 GMT
Followup-To: rec.audio.car
To: geordie@nick.csh.rit.edu (Geordie 'Gweeb' Klueber)


I would be really interested in any replies you get to
your post about RCA preamp outs and active vs. passive
xovers.  I am in a very similar situation, and wonder if
you might forward any replies you get on the subject
to me.  Thanx in advance.

Paul Simoneau
pauls@ctron.com
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: chiu@gpb-mac.sps.mot.com (Norman Chiu)
Subject: Re: dsp, anyone?
Originator: root@mogate.sps.mot.com
Organization: Motorola
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 19:21:10 GMT

In article <1992Aug18.193925.16160@advtech.uswest.com>,
jsalmi@lookout.it.uswc.uswest.com (John Salmi) writes:
> 
> if you have any dsp input, model, make, pricerange, performance, whatever,
> please email me.  if there is sufficient interest, i'll post a summary.
> 
> the only dsp that i've seriously looked at was the clarion din-sized unit.

  John,
     I don't any dsp experience (yet!), but I just finished reading the
User's Evaluation article in Sep/Oct 92's Car Stereo Review on the 
Pioneer Premier DEQ-7500 DSP unit.
     Basically, this dsp unit emphasizes on digital equalization and throws in
some ambience processing, according to the article.  It has four channels
input and six channels output, with an active crossover putting out
the subwoofer channel and the center channel. It has an image correction
function where you can select any one of the four sitting positions in
the car and optimize the image to that position.  The list price is $650.

    May be it worth a look?

-- 
   /|   /  chiu@gpb-mac.sps.mot.com   | Norman Chiu - Motorola Inc. Austin, TX
  / |  / ___________________________  | "...We never gonna to survive
 /  | / /  / /__/  /\/\   /_\   /| /  |  unless we get a little crazy..."
/   |/ /__/ /   \ /    \ /   \ / |/   |                            - Seal
From: veloovet@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (mohan veloo vethiveloo)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: >>CAR AUDIO FORSALE<<
Date: 12 Aug 92 17:34:09 GMT
Organization: Indiana University


 need to sell some car stereo components because i've bought a new one.
here they are.

1) I have a Bolt MOSFET car power amp for sale
   Here are some of the specifications:
        25w/ch x 4 into 4ohms
        50w/ch x 4 into 2 ohms
        Full MOSFET power supply
        Descrete components
        2 ohm stable
        gold plated leads


I'm asking $175 obo. Make an offer and I'll consider it.

2) Kenwood KDC-85r for sale

   Here are some of the specs:
        - removable chassis
        - CD changer controls with 20 track programming
          in other words, it can control a seperate CD changer
        - four 1 bit D/A converters
        - 8-times oversampling
        - quarts synthesis tuning
        - sperate bass, treble, loudness
        - 3 sets RCA preamp outpusts with dual amp balancer fader
        - switchable amber/green illumination

Its one of Kenwood's top models. The only model higher than this is the
KDC-95R which just adds a remote control. I bought this for $480. It is
only 4 months old. I'm willing to let it go for $375 obo. You can
contact me at 333-2430 or email me at VELOOVET@ucs.indiana.edu.
From: moussavi@hplred.HP.COM (Farshid Moussavi)
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 20:47:47 GMT
Subject: Door speakers in Jetta
Organization: Hewlett Packard Labs, Palo Alto CA
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car

Hi everybody

I have a pair of 5.25" mid/bass drivers from Blaupunkt I'm trying to 
install in my 1990 Jetta's front doors.  I can either just attatch them
to the factory grille and put the grill in its place, or I can make a 
hole in the door panel behind the factory grille and drop the speaker
in there, like a normal door installation, thus using the door's interior
as an enclosure of sorts.  Anybody have any recommendations/expereinces
regarding door speakers in a Jetta?  What should I do?  Thanks a bunch in
advance.

Farshid