HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: bohdan@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (bohdan.l.bodnar)
Subject: Re: poor running, esp. when cold
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 14:14:33 GMT

In article <1992Oct9.215338.21227@ils.nwu.edu> neves@aristotle.ils.nwu.edu (David &) writes:
>I have an 81 Tercel that sounds horrible when cold.  It makes a
>sputtering type sound when at speed, but not when accelerating.  Along
>with the sputtering it seems that the car doesn't have as much power
>as it should but I can't tell if it is misfiring.  Also, when
>sputtering the speed doesn't seem to keep constant.  
>
>The idle is bad when cold.  I took it into 2 places and both said I
>needed a $150-$200 tune up.  They didn't see any problem with the
>choke and one of the places did $30 worth of carb cleanup (worthless).
>
>When the engine is fully warmed up the sputtering goes away and the
>idle is very smooth.  It might just be my imagination but it doesn't
>seem to have as much pickup, even when warm.  It has no problem
>starting when cold.
>
>I did the tune up myself by replacing the cap/rotor/ignition wires/PCV
>value/fuel filter (someone else did the spark plugs) and set the
>timing (it was 10 degrees off) but I still have the cold running
>problem.  The car does start easier though!
>
>I know I have a small hole somewhere in the exhaust system and was
>told that the valve cover gasket might be bad because there is oil in that
>area.
>
>Before I talk it into a 3rd (sigh) place I thought I would ask here
>for suggestions on what the problem might be.
>
>-Thanks, David
>
>--
>neves@ils.nwu.edu
>Institute for the Learning Sciences, 1890 Maple, Evanston Il 60201

David,

Your air cleaner contains a vacuum operated temperature modulated motor which
ensures that warm air is fed to the carburetor when the engine is cold.  With
the engine cold, remove the air snorkel feeding the air cleaner.  The motor
operated door may be visible.  With the engine cold, this door is shut -- the
air is being taken in from the air heater ("stove") via a hose (you do have
this hose, right?) someplace near the exhaust manifold.  As the engine heats
up, this door will gradually open to allow colder, outside air to feed in.  If
this door is stuck in the open position with the engine cold, or if the hose to
the air heater is missing, the engine will run very roughly when it's cold.

Bohdan Bodnar
AT&T Bell Laboratories
Naperville, IL 60566

From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: EXTRUDEhone port/polish
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 20:39:02 -0500

 MJ> >Would an experienced tuner be able to do a better or comparable job?
 MJ> 
 MJ> Comparable, yes. Better, probably not. Cheaper in some cases, probably.

What's a typical charge (per port?)
Subject: Re: Speed rated tires
Organization: University of Maine System
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From:    michael@maine.maine.edu (Michael Johnson)
To:      NETNEWS@MAINE
Date:    Wed, 14 Oct 92 17:16:12 EDT

In article <92287.222356QXF1@psuvm.psu.edu> <QXF1@psuvm.psu.edu> writes:
>Could anyone tell me what's the major difference between speed rated tire
>and that without speed rate?  Does it tend to have better grib?  Does it
>tend to be made of softer compound and have lower tread wear index?

All tires are speed rated. The question is, what is the rating? All that the
speed rating tells you is, this tire can be expected to sustain speeds of
"x" or less MPH for a reasonable period of time (hours) without having the
tread separate from the belts, and other catastrophic things. Mostly it
rates how well they stand up to heat, that being the primary killer of tires
which have been running at high speed for a long time.

The speed ratings I am aware of (going progressively upward in max speed) are
"H", "V", and "Z". There is another rating for lower speed tires. And no, I
don't remember exactly what speeds these ratings are for.

Michael Johnson, VM Systems Group                     michael@maine.maine.edu
"I will choose the path that's clear. I will choose Free Will." -- Neil Peart
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: aligning after replacing rack and pinion?
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 12 Oct 92 19:14:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet



-> Is it necessary to realign the front end of a FWD car after
-> replacing the rack and pinion assembly?  One place says yes,

 Yes.  Your toe adjustment will almost certainly be off.  Also, if it
was necessary to replace the rack in the first place, the car probably
needed an alignment anyway.

 If it looks like they want too much for the alignment, it won't hurt
to drive it from where it is to some other place.
From: alter@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (Eric Alter)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: PROM replacement revisited
Date: 8 Oct 92 22:48:34 GMT
Organization: IBM Rochester
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM

A couple of weeks ago I posted on dealer recommended replacement of my '88
Beretta GT (2.8L V6) ECM PROM.  This was suggested due to rough/surging running
when the engine was cold and I was in 1st or 2nd gear (some GM service
bulletin said that there was some problem with the 84-88 2.8L engine
PROMs, Ok, I know this.  My car is not under warrenty.).

I talked with the dealer today and am having them check into the PROM part
number I need and the cost.  The parts guy mentioned something about
possibly disconnecting a sensor or two when the new PROM was installed.

If I buy this PROM and install it, are there any sensors to disconnect?
I understand that the ECM reprograms itself when a PROM is added/changed,
is this so?  Apart from an obvious improvement in driveability, how can
I check to see that the PROM has fixed the problem?  The dealer mentioned
checking it with a scope (part of their check).  What does this entail?

Next group of questions -

Now that it's cooling off (in Mn that is...) it seems that it takes 10-15
seconds for the engine to drop from 1700 or so RPM to idle at 800 RPM.
This occurs when the car has just stopped say at a light and the car is
in neutral, clutch engaged or disengaged.  Also, when I shift gears,
the engine RPMs increase by as much as 1000 RPM.  I've eliminated the
problem with me being the culpret (holding my foot on the gas) by taking
my foot off the gas and then engaging the clutch and shifting gears.
This occurs at any driving speed.  Will the PROM help with this problem?

I posted earlier today 'cause I thought the throttle pos. sensor may be
the problem, and I haven't checked it yet (maybe this weekend???).

Any net help would be most appreciated!

-- 

Eric Alter		alter@rchland.vnet.ibm.com
IBM Corporation		Rochester, Mn
From: xx203@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Safety and the Environment)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Gold Spark Plugs/
Date: 17 Oct 1992 03:48:20 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


Gold is good for corrosion resistence-it's used on electrical
contacts for that reason.  Actually only a light electroplate.

I have never heard of its use on plugs however.
-- 
The above is provided for general information only and may not
apply to a specific situation.
From: SDOGGETT@cmsa.gmr.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Faulty fuel guage (GMC Jimmy)
Date: 13 Oct 92 13:18:50 GMT
Organization: GM Research Labs

In article <1992Oct9.202949.16188@mercury.unt.edu>
chris@ponder.csci.unt.edu (chris gleaves) writes:

>the printed circuit (the replacement was not new), but my fuel guage registers
>as if I have about 20 gallons over full.  If you push the needle to empty,
>the needle will slowly move toward full, and then right past it until it is
>"pegged".  I checked the fuel guage by putting it in a friend's truck, it
>
You definately have an open circuit from the fual gauge to the sending unit in
the tank.  This truck uses a balancing coil type fuel gauge.  You may need a sc
hematic for this, but first disconnect the gauge wire from the sending unit and
 ground it (make sure you have the correct wire).  If the circuit is good to th
e tank the gauge will read E.  If there was no change at the gauge move forward
in the circuit.  Ground the printed circ board next, thne move to the gauge ter
m.  Of course you can't ground the circuit before the gauge, but you're safe do
ing this from the gauge back.  Good luck Spencer Doggett
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:13983 rec.autos.vw:5694
From: Brian.E.Hannon@dartmouth.edu (Brian E. Hannon)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: over charging battery
Date: 14 Oct 92 03:42:58 GMT
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH
X-Posted-From: InterNews1.0a5@newshost.dartmouth.edu

In article <1992Oct12.062637.14627@nmr-z.mgh.harvard.edu>
shinh@nmr-z.mgh.harvard.edu (Shinjiro Hirose) writes:

> So, does anyone know
> if my voltage regulator can be stuck in the "on" position?
> The one time I've dealt with voltage regulators, they didn't
> let enough charge through.  Can they fail in the opposite manner?

Well, it is not really an on/off thing.  A voltage regulator simply
dissipates power stemming from voltage over a specified limit.  It
limits the voltage all the time exactly the same, and the battery
charges up to this voltage, unless the regulator has failed.

Yes, they can fail in both manners...  One way to check is to run the
car parked for a while revving the engine and then use a meter to
measure the voltage across the battery.  Most automotive systems should
charge the battery to 13.5-14.0 volts, but the electrolyte won't begin
to boil until 14.4 volts.

Good luck,

Bri
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mrein3@CFSMO.Honeywell.COM (Matt Rein #3)
Subject: Ford Escort Problems
To: rec.autos.tech
Posted-Date: Tue, 13 Oct 92 15: 46:13 cdt
Organization: Honeywell Systems & Research Center
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 20:46:13 GMT
Received-Date: Tue, 13 Oct 92 15: 46:23 CDT

> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
>  I own a 1986 Ford Escort.  I was speaking with a mechanic today who
> mentioned that at around 60K miles, bad (terminal) things might
> start happening to my engine.  Specifically, he mentioned a chronic
> problem with timing belts.  Can someone comment on this for me? If this
> truly is a problem, what's the best method for fixing it?
> 
>  Thanks very much,
> 
>   Jay
> 
> 
> -- 
>                                   
>      Jay Giurleo - jayg@wpi.wpi.edu - WPI Box 2080 - Worcester, MA 01609
> 
The timing belt change at 60K is not a chronic problem, that is just how
long the belt lasts.  Check your owners manual.  If you change it at 60K
you won't have any problems.  If you don't, keep a quarter in your pocket
when you go for a spin.

A side not for all you dummies who bought Hondas...
Their owners manual said to change the timing belt at 75K.  I know two
people at work here who needed to rebuild their motors after their belts
broke at under 75K.  (One guy was gonna do it at 70K just to be safe)
Honda now suggests 60K also.  Ain't it funny how you only
hear people bash American made cars for problems like this.  When a Honda
self-destructs at a young age the owner doesn't say anything...  Interesting.
I also get pretty tired of hearing American engineers complain about
no jobs anymore and then go out and jump into a rice-burner of some kind
to go home.

--                                     _                
Matt Rein                             / )/              / /
CFS/MO                               /  /_  _       _  / / _
Coon Rapids, MN                     (__/ /_(/_|\_|_(/_/_/_(/__ BY CHEVROLET
From: C058SJLX@ubvm.cc.buffalo.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Ford Tempo '86 problem
Date: 15 Oct 92 16:17:53 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo

In article <Bw4IK8.34@acsu.buffalo.edu>
C058SJLX@ubvm.cc.buffalo.edu writes:
 
>
>   This car has a EFI system .  Two years ago it had the controler
>  computer replaced (the car was recalled by the dealer).
>    Now the car has a (I believe) related problem.  When the engine
> is cold the car runs OK.  After driving for about 15-20 minutes,
> when the engine warms-up, the engine runs irregularly and then
> it stalls.  After that I have to restart the engine at every stop.
>  If I put the car in N the engine may or may not stall, but as
> soon as I shift to D, the engine stalls.  I have to keep accelerating
> to be able to move.  It seems to me that this problem is definitely
> related to the temperature.
>   If I keep the car running the problem  goes worse and worse,
>  only when it gets cold works OK.
>   I took the car to the shop, they were not able to find the cause.
>  The car has brand new gas filter, spark-plugs and cables, and
>  distributor cap.
>   Also the car has absolutely no power to climb up when the engine
>  warms up.
>   Could be this problem caused by a non working vane air meter,
> which is a sensor for intake air temperature and flow.???
>
>      Any help would be greately appreciated,
>
>
>                  Thank you
>                                 Eleazar Puente
    An update on this problem.  Yesterday I learned that Ford is
 recalling Tempos '86 for replacing the in-tank fuel pump.
  I will have mine replaced next tuesday.
   Still, I do not know if this will fix the problem.
      Thanks for any help.
          Eleazar Puente
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty)
Subject: Re: DOHC on a V8 possible? (IROC vs. Trans-AM vs NASCAR)
Organization: New York State Institute for Sebastian Cabot Studies
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 21:00:38 GMT

In article <1992Oct06.195610.22540@i88.isc.com> dye@i88.isc.com (Ken R. Dye ) writes:
>	Thanks.  Of course, I was referring to the "high performance"
>cars that these series run (*not* their production namesakes).  All are
>purpose built, tube frame, RWD live axle cars.

>	In the SCCA, the GT class allows you to run a live rear axle
>in cars that originally had IRS.  

actually, for new GT class cars, my reading of the rather badly worded
passage of the rulebook is that you _have_ to convert IRS cars to live
rear ends.

but then, nobody has ever accused the GT classes of being designed to
keep costs down.

richard
-- 
richard welty                            518-393-7228
welty@cabot.balltown.cma.com
  ``if you can read this, mario, you're too close''
    -- bumper sticker seen on a CART safety truck
From: norcott_billtandem.com (Bill Norcott)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Saturn corrosive coolant rumor
Date: 16 Oct 92 18:42:29 GMT
Reply-To: norcott_bill@tandem.com (Bill Norcott)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Tandem Computers, Inc.

In article <1992Oct16.162433.5022@Arco.COM>, ericc@Arco.COM (Chang Eric(214)754-3562) writes:
|> I just heard that Saturn pulled something like 5000 cars from their line
|> due to the discovery that their cooling systems were filled with some
|> kind of corrosive chemical.  Is this true?  What happened to the automobiles
|> after they were pulled?                     Eric
|> 
Saturn recalled a couple thousand cars with this condition.  They
gave each of the affected customers a new Saturn.  The recalled cars
destroyed because Saturn wanted to eliminate the possibility that any
of the problem cars would be back on the market.  

-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------|
Bill Norcott			GUARDIAN POSIX project
Tandem Computers, Inc.		
10600 N. Tantau Avenue		PHONE:  (408) 285-3253
Cupertino, CA   95014		EMAIL: norcott_bill@tandem.com
From: Michel_Denber.WBST147@XEROX.COM
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: GM diagnostic harness
Date: 8 Oct 92 13:29:00 GMT


	"I just saw a ECM diagnostic tool at a local discount auto parts store.
The cost was @ $40.00. There were three models available. One for each American
car manufacturer.

So they are available and they are fairly inexpensive!"

Sure they are.  And did you know you can convert any black and white TV to
color with a simple $20 conversion kit?  (It's a piece of colored plastic you
stick to the screen).  Actually, these $40 "tools" are really great.  For the
people who sell them, that is.  They allow you to do the same thing you can do
with a $0.01 paper clip: read the ECM codes.  If you want to do what the
original poster was asking (read the serial data stream, not just whatever
codes may be set) you're talking a Scan tool and some major bucks.  The best
bet I've seen so far is still Rinda Technologies' Diacom PC software package at
$300.  If this $40 doohick can do the same thing, *I'd* like to see it!

Oh, and Lechmere's is selling a satellite TV antenna for just $29.95.  Of
course, the dish is only 4" wide and it only receives ordinary local VHF
stations (almost as well as a bent coat hanger), but why pick nits?  It's good
to see the spirit of P.T. Barnum alive and well in America.  Caviar empty.

			- Michel

denber.wbst147@xerox.com
From: dtn@po.CWRU.Edu (Donald T. Noda)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Ceiling repair
Date: 12 Oct 1992 05:24:00 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


	I am refinishing my auto ceiling the material I am using
to replace the old is heavy duty felt.  The ceiling is styrofoam.
I need suggestions as to what kind of adhesive I can get that 
will bond these two substances well and permanently.  I am 
looking for something that won't lump or soak through easily.  I
hae tried an all purpose spray.  It went on great.  Easy too.
Within a day the felt peeled off.  Grrr!!!

		Don
-- 
           __    _______       _        |
      ----/  \  /__  __/  /\  / /------ |216-754-1981
    -----/ /\ \   / /    / /\/ /-----   |dtn@cwns4.ins.cwru.edu
 ------/_____/  /_/    /_/  \/----      |
From: blake@ncrsna.stpaul.ncr.com (Tony C Blake)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Speedometer Problem - HELP
Summary: Flakey sppedometer when wet
Keywords: Speedometer problem calais
Date: 7 Oct 92 16:36:53 GMT
Organization: NCR NPG StPaul MN

I am having problems with the speedometer on my 85 Olds Calais and I was 
hoping to get hints from the net on how to go about diagnosing the problem.

Whenever it is raining or the humidity is high, the speedometer will display 
45 MPH after after I start the car in the morning.  It will continue to 
display this for a few miles before return to normal.  The display looks 
analog, but is actually digital.  The car has the 3.0 V6 with an
automatic transmission.  Any ideas where I should start looking?   

Thanks in Advance.  

+------------------------------+--------------------------------------+
| Tony C. Blake                | Disclaimer:                          |
| NCR Corporation              |  I don't speak for NCR Corporation & |
| blake@c10sd8.stpaul.ncr.com  |  they certainly don't speak for me.  |
+------------------------------+--------------------------------------+
From: little_re@lrc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: a wierd Mustang electrical problem: spastic turn signals?
Date: 12 Oct 92 21:55:00 GMT
Organization: Lenoir-Rhyne College, Hickory, NC

> My turn signals 'got no rhythm'. They blink, but they are erratic.
> Within twenty seconds they will be weak and quick then strong but slow.
> 
> Any Ideas?

    What year is it??  My '66 had a similar problem.  I finally figured
out that the fan belt had lost a little tension.  Not enough to squeal,
but enough so that the turn signals wouldn't get enough energy.  They
would be fine at normal (driving) speeds, but at slower speeds (about to
turn) they would slow down and sometimes not even blink.
    Give that a shot....

--
Rich Little		
LITTLE_RE@LRC.EDU	A hotrodder is someone who is completely 
Lenoir-Rhyne College	baffled by people who are NOT into cars!
Hickory, NC
From: rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com (Bob Rusk)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Bad Alternator?
Date: 14 Oct 92 20:14:04 GMT
Reply-To: rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com
Organization: Harris Computer Systems Division

On Tue, 13 Oct 1992 21:01:34 GMT, heff@apollo.hp.com wrote:

>store.  How can I check it out?  Get the car started, and see if
>there's a healthy 12V on the output of the alternator?  Is there
>something behind the alternator in the system that could be bad
>and producing similar symptoms?  

The last Toyota I worked on ('86 Tercel) had an external regulator,
located behind the battery.  It's usually a good idea to replace it
when the alternator goes out, and a bad regulator can  make an
alternator stop charging.  Figure on $15.00-25.00 at the auto parts
store.

There is a way to test the alternator (feed it 12V at the field?), but
I've forgotten the specifics.  Most of the do-it-yourselfer-oriented
auto parts places will test your alternator for you if you take it in to
them.

>Also, is it bad to disconnect the
>alternator and the battery while the car's running?  (My motorcycle
>repair manual has a caution to that effect, are car alternators similar?)

Yes.  The battery acts as a buffer, and protects the engine computer and
a variety of other electronic pieces.  Don't run the car with the battery
disconnected.

--
--
 Bob Rusk
 rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com
 My thoughts, probably not Harris'.
From: michael@maine.maine.edu (Michael Johnson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: EXTRUDEhone port/polish
Date: 13 Oct 92 22:00:43 GMT
Organization: University of Maine System
To:      NETNEWS@MAINE

In article <FRIDMAN.92Oct12144751@aa.cpsc.ucalgary.ca> fridman@cpsc.ucalgary.ca
(Robert Fridman) writes:
>
>Has anyone tried the EXTRUDEhome process to port/polish the heads?
>This process uses an abrasive paste under pressure instead of a grinder
>to alter the shape of the ports.  The add I saw claimed about 25% increase
>in flow over stock.
>
>Does this process REALLY work?  Are there any dangers (does it open up the
>ports to much or damage the valve seats)?

European Car magazine did an article on the Extrude Hone process. They took
a pair of Porsche 911 heads and had one honed by Extrude Hone, and the other
honed by an expert. The Extrude Honed head performed measurably (though not
by much) better than the head honed the "old-fashioned" way when tested on
a flow bench. The Extrude Hone process only takes off metal where there is
a flow restriction, so chances are it won't open ports excessively. You
should have to expect to replace the valve seats after a porting job anyway.
European Car concluded that the process worked quite well.

The place where Extrude Hone really shines is porting of manifolds. The
traditional way of porting these is to cut them open, take off some metal,
and weld them back together, which is time consuming and expensive. The
Extrude Hone process is a much better solution for this application.

>Would an experienced tuner be able to do a better or comparable job?

Comparable, yes. Better, probably not. Cheaper in some cases, probably.

Michael Johnson, VM Systems Group                     michael@maine.maine.edu
"I will choose the path that's clear. I will choose Free Will." -- Neil Peart
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:14006 rec.autos:23984