HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: IROC smokes on start
From: james@koko.csustan.edu (Jonas Grumpy)
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 92 02:48:00 GMT
Organization: CSU Stanislaus

In article <Bto7My.2Hs@acsu.buffalo.edu> v087mxgb@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (Shawn E Thompson) writes:
>In article <1992Aug27.222855.14496@koko.csustan.edu>, james@koko.csustan.edu (Jonas Grumpy) writes...
>>Its either fuel leaking past injectors or water build up somewhere that
>>is coming out as steam. Or it could be a million other things!
>
>neither......its oil trust me I had both manifestations 
>of this (valve guide leakage and oil return-line leakage)...
>

I have never known this to be a problem with small block heads. I know 
valve guides eventually wear, but not so soon. I hope chevy didn't screw
up a time perfected design.

Maybe you can put corvette heads on it.

>definitely not water...
>
>
>Shawn E. Thompson                         | Project Engineer/Mgr  (716)891-3375
>v087mxgb@ubvms.cc.buffalo.edu             | Leica, Incorporated
>University @ Buffalo                      | PO Box 123
>Graduate School of Mechanical Engineering | Buffalo, NY 14240-0123
>------------------------------------------+-----------------------------------
>"Nothin ever grows in this rotten old hole, and everthing is stunted and lost..
>and nothin really rocks n nothin really rolls and nothin's ever worth the cost"
>                                                               --- Meatloaf


-- 
28940375892743587293475982734985723984 bottles of beer on the wall
28940375892743587293475982734985723984 bottles of beer..
take one down, pass it around
28940375892743587293475982734985723983 bottles of beer on the wall......>>>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: Bob.Smith@bbs.oit.unc.edu (Bob Smith)
Subject: Info needed on B&W T-5 tranny
Organization: Extended Bulletin Board Service
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 13:38:58 GMT

Hello,

Well, my urges to do an engine/tranny swap in my XR4 have flared again,
and I'm looking for info on the T-5.  The info I'm looking for includes

	1. Where can I get a good used one for less than the $600 the 
	   local junk-yards want to take me for and old ratted out one?
	   $600 should get you one in excellent conditon at least!

	2. Where can I get info on what T-5s went in what
	   Camaros/Mustangs/etc.?

	3. Where can I get dimensional info on the T-5.  Local libraries have
	   few auto tech books ...

	4. Where can I get gear ratio info?

Thanks in advance, 
-bob smith

--
   The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the University of
     North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Campus Office for Information
        Technology, or the Experimental Bulletin Board Service.
           internet:  bbs.oit.unc.edu or 152.2.22.80
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: Brakes
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 13:09:38 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 An advantage of -not- connecting the two master cylinders in parallel and then
splitting off again is that if there is a failure in one line (say, if the rear
brake line ruptures due to 20 years of rust) you don't lose the other line too.

 As far as loss of braking power with altitude, if you have a vacuum booster
(power brakes) you will see a drop in vacuum at altitude because the ambient
pressure is lower. If your brakes are marginal you'll see it then. Your idle
vacuum may be even lower than normal due to (a) and the mixture error also
due to (a) can drop it even more. 
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jgraham@bronze.ucs.indiana.edu (the End)
Subject: Re: 87 Charger Omini/Horizon looses pickup when warm
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 22:18:23 GMT

I found the MC (mixture control or "duty cycle") solenoid and
disconnected it. No suprise, the problem is gone. This mimics the
situation where the engine temp is low, and the coolant sensor
overrides the other electronic fuel control components leading to a 
"full rich" mixture.

The problem seems to involve the electronic fuel contol system when it
is calling for a "leaner" mixture. 

A good first candidate is the "oxygen sensor"($50) which protrudes
from the manifold measuring the
exhaust gas composition. I have heard from someone who replaced his
after dozensof visits to the repair shop, and it was the ticket in his case. He
also said this was done under a recall for the emission system. Does
anyone have any information about this recall ?

Good luck,

Jim
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: chucko@kronos.arc.nasa.gov (Chuck Fry)
Subject: Re: tire speed ratings
Organization: Recom Technologies, NASA Ames Research Center, Moffett Field, CA
Distribution: rec
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 17:50:02 GMT

In article <JEFF.92Sep4104534@dsp.sps.mot.com> jeff@dsp.sps.mot.com (Jeff Enderwick) writes:
>Does anyone have a tire speed rating chart handy? How fast/hot is safe for
>a H rated tire? a V rated tire?

The speed capabilities I remember off the top of my head are S, 110
MPH; T, 118 MPH; H, 130 MPH; V, 150 MPH; Z, above 150 MPH.  Don't know
about heat, but it would seem any V or Z rated tire should have a UTQG
temperature rating of A (best possible).

See the FAQ for more specifics.  Or call one of the tire stores
advertised in the car buff magazines.

 -- Chuck Fry  Chucko@charon.arc.nasa.gov
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: '85 Subaru GL - replacing water pump gasket easy?
From: james@koko.csustan.edu (Jonas Grumpy)
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 92 22:32:04 GMT
Organization: CSU Stanislaus

In article <DAVET.92Aug27155114@kaos.ksr.com> davet@ksr.com (Dave Teichholtz) writes:
>In article <1992Aug25.161000.9977@cabot.balltown.cma.COM> welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty) writes:
>
>>   someone wrote:
>>   >	"Naah. I never saw a water pump driven by the timing belt."
>>
>>   early versions of the US market Ford Escort.
>
>   Also, Honda Civic's. (at least the 1984 1.3 and 1986 1.5 that I have 
>   been married to).
>
>-David
> 

Also 90 & 91 twin cam Yugo's. 
-- 
 This area is waiting for some witty saying. Shift ZZ ...the quick way out. 
28940375892743587293475982734985723984 bottles of beer on the wall
28940375892743587293475982734985723984 bottles of beer..
take one down, pass it around
From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Battery Technology for EVs
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1992 22:11:20 -0500

 TR>  There was apparently some discussion on the Usenet rec.motorcycles 
 TR> newsgroup
 TR> about the use of EDTA (a commonly used preservative) to prevent 
 TR> sulfation in
 TR> motorcycle batteries. So this sort of claim is not without parallel. In 
 TR> fact
 TR> there may be -significant- or even total similarity.

The same thing occurred to me. I've been trying to get some EDTA for some time
now. 

Has anybody confirmed the claims of the original poster with respect to EDTA?



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rakoczynskij@gtephx.UUCP (Jurek Rakoczynski)
Subject: Re: Cleaning spark plugs??
Organization: AG Communication Systems, Phoenix, Arizona
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 16:59:50 GMT

In article <1992Aug31.032653.553@posms.cactus.org>, rick@posms.cactus.org (Rick Kirchhof) writes:
[stuff about cleaning plugs deleted]
> causing the _appearance_ of a misfire or oil consumption problem.  You
> can usually clean non-resistor plugs a number of times, but _always_ use
> an anti-seize lubricant on the threads when reinstalling any spark plug
> that is not new.

Why do you think old plugs are any differant the new plugs?  I always
use anti-sieze lube on plug threads, and silcone grease on plug boots,
and ....
-- 
Jurek Rakoczynski, AG Communication Systems, POB 52179, Phoenix, AZ. 85072
UUCP: ...!{ncar!noao!enuucp | att}!gtephx!rakoczynskij  Voice: +1 602 581 4867
Inet: gtephx!rakoczynskij@enuucp.eas.asu.edu              Fax: +1 602 582 7111
Inet: /DD.UN=J.RAKOCZYNSKI/O=GTE/PRMD=GTEMAIL/ADMD=TELEMAIL/C=US/@sprint.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sahul@loading-zone.Stanford.EDU (Zakir H. Sahul)
Subject: Re: '89 TOYOTA with carb problem
Keywords: toyota carb stall
Organization: Stanford University
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 92 23:11:39 GMT

In article <18752@bunny.GTE.COM>, dcb0@gte.com (Daniel Bazinet) writes:
|> 
|> 	Hi,
|> 	  Anyone encounter a toyota tercel with a severe hesitation
|> 	problem from a cold start, even on temperate days?  It
|> 	disappears after about 10 minutes of drivng.  Mileage is 35
|> 	mpg, and acceleration is good after initial 10 minutes.
|> 	I suspect a bad O-ring on Acc. pump.  Anybody got experience 
|> 	with this carb / rebuilding ?
|> 					Thanks,
|> 					   Dan

Yes.  I have had the same problem with my '90 tercel.  The used car buyers
guide had pointed the problem about the '89 ('88?) when I decided to buy 
the '90.  They said "the engine sags when warming up."  I couldn't check it out
when I test drove the vehicle.  So I have been stuck with it since the day I 
bought the car.  Only if I had checked the engine temp gauge while test driving!

My guess is that the carbuerator leans the fuel too much to
warm up the engine quickly.  Then, it returns to normal after the engine
is warm.  Toyota was probably trying to make some emissions and/or fuel
economy spec that needed a warm engine pretty quick.  Of course I could be
wrong and there might just be a problem with the O-ring.

-Zak.
From: kiviat@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Brian Kiviat)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: What's a good one??? was Re: CLUB Story
Date: 2 Sep 92 16:35:50 GMT
Reply-To: kiviat@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Brian Kiviat)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.autos.tech, little_re@lrc.edu writes:
>Is there a good, inexpensive way to make a thief look at somebody else's
>car??

Simple, buy a crappy car that nobody wants to steal!

   O
   I\   Brian Kiviat (301)227-1833       Sometimes the truth is hidden,
   I \  kiviat@oasys.dt.navy.mil         Like a shadow in the darkness.
  /     David Taylor Model Basin                  -Master Po
   \___________________________
			     \\
From: pshyvers@pyrnova.mis.pyramid.com (Peter Shyvers)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Replace rear springs on '78 Econoline 100 with 250/350?
Date: 3 Sep 92 22:21:13 GMT
Reply-To: pshyvers@pyrnova.pyramid.com (Peter Shyvers)
Organization: Pyramid Technology Corp., Mountain View, CA
Originator: daemon@sword.eng.pyramid.com

In article <185h3eINN9gl@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> jfb2@po.CWRU.Edu (John F. Bauer III) writes:
>
>
>	The springs on the back of my '78 Econoline 100 Ford van are pretty
>much shot.  One is broken, the other is really sagging.  I am looking to replacethe springs as cheaply as possible (ie. local junk yard).  Yet, I don't want
>to get another set off a 100 if I can help it, they are not ready made to carry
>much weight.  I was wondering if anyone knew if I could look for springs from
>an Econoline 2500 or 3500 that would replace the ones I have?  Also, anyone knowhow many Ford spring sets are the same from year to year (ie. will the springs
>from an '84 E350 fit my '78 E100)?
>
Ask the guys in the junkyard!  They're usually selling to mechanics in shops
that have no more idea than you do about what can be swapped with what;
after all, they want to move the inventory and interchangeability is the
key. (It's not as though they *hunt down* junked cars for parts, now, do 
they? 8^) )
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 15:45:41 EDT
From: Steve VanOrmer <SRV101@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Mysterious Sunbird Problem...Advice?

Greetings,

I've got a rather frustrating engine problem with my 1986 Pontiac Sunbird that
has persisted for the last month. When driving on the open highway my engine cu
ts out rather abruptly for a split second. This seems to happen when I'm travel
ing between 55 - 65 MPH and am traveling on an inclined road. So far I have tri
ed the following things with no luck.

- Had the engine checked by a mechanic with computer engine analysis
- Had the fuel filter replaced
- Had the Oxygen Sensor Reset
- Had the timing reset
- Ran only high octane fuel for the past month
- Used a fuel additive to clean the fuel injectors and intake valves

If anyone has any ideas on what to try next I'd appreciate it. I hate to keep
spending big bucks at the mechanic if he can't find out what the problem is.
Either e-mail or posting is fine.
                                    |   "It's a sad man my friend,
 Steven R VanOrmer                  |    who's livin' in his own skin
 Dazed & Confused                   |    and can't stand the company."
 srv101@psuvm.psu.edu               |
 The Pennsylvania State University  |
From: tmcdonal@ringer.cs.utsa.edu (Tom McDonald)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Fan belts w/teeth
Date: 28 Aug 92 23:02:31 GMT
Organization: University of Texas at San Antonio

In article <24117@oasys.dt.navy.mil> bense@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ronald Bense)
writes:
>In rec.autos.tech, tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen) writes:
>
>>here's the problem: the old ones have teeth in them (actually,
>>the teeth are so wide that it would be more accurate to say that
>>the belt has slits in it).  the new ones don't.
>
>>catalog.  is there something i'm missing here?  what the hell are the
>>teeth for?
>
>They're cogged belts. The slits relieve stress in the belt to help them
>serve a longer, reliable life. The multi-ribbed belts do a real contortionist's
>act around all the pulleys, which really places a lot of stress in the
>belt. The cogs, or slits, reduce bending stresses as the belt curves
>and recurves.

I had a problem with a '77 Pontiac's alternator belt in that somewhere between
2" and 15" of the outside of the belt would piece off shortly after it was
installed.  I went through four like this until I got the cogged type and
the problem stopped.  Given the choice, I'd take cogged any day.

						-Tom
-- 
Okay, one more time.  This is your brain. (egg)
This is your brain on drugs. (egg in frying pan)
Any Questions?
"Yeah, can I have mine scrambled?"
From: stanford@verbis.waisman.wisc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: SHO air conditioner
Date: 4 Sep 92 18:07:43 GMT
Organization: Waisman Center, University of Wisconsin-Madison


        The air conditioning in my Taurus SHO (1990) recently decided to
no longer produce cold air.  Thinking perhaps that a slow leak had developed
(I noticed it at the beginning of summer when it had not been asked to
produce cold air for some time), I recharged the system with R12.  All was
well for a short time (about 3 weeks) but now it, again, produces air that
is only slightly cooler than ambient.  Is there a reasonably easy way for
me to check out the system and locate the leak?  Can anyone out there point
me in the direction of the likely culprit (I HOPE it is not a seal in the
compressor)?  Has anyone had a similar problem with an SHO? (I dont' know
if the system is the same as in the other Tauruses).
        I am a bit reluctant to take it to the local Ford dealer for repair,
I have considerable reservations about their competence and honesty.  Any
information would be greatly appreciated.  E-mail address below if that
is considered a better forum for replies.  Tbanks in advance.
                                                Larry Stanford
                                                STANFORD@WAISMAN.WISC.EDU
From: ingram@sequent.com (Bill Ingram)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: CLUB Story
Date: 1 Sep 92 17:49:50 GMT
Article-I.D.: sequent.1992Sep1.174950.13787
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems Inc.

In article <Sep01.151047.78227@yuma.ACNS.ColoState.EDU> johnc@yuma.acns.colostate.edu (John Cooley) writes:
%In article <1992Sep1.025939.26928@uniwa.uwa.edu.au> scott@psy.uwa.oz.au 
%(Scott Fisher) writes:
%>asr_2@dac.mdcbbs.com writes:
%
%>>Wife's CLUB just messed up royally.  We go to unlock it and there it is
%>>stuck and the key won't turn(it has one of those circular keys not a regular
%
%(most of bad experience with CLUB deleted)
%
%>>an hour so the thing was good, the bad news was that it was a piece of
%>>crap lock.  
%
%>That's interesting..a consumer magazine here in Australia called
%>CHOICE (US has one too I beleive?) did an article on these steering
%>wheel locks and had a trial where a randomly chosen guy (unskilled in
%>car theft) was given a screwdriver and told to ... see if you can remove 
%>this lock.
%
%>The average locks were removed from anywhere between 15 seconds to 3 minutes.
%>all brands and styles failed the test at the hands of the amature.
%>The CLUB lock was apparently in the 15 second category.
%
%Despite advertisements to the contrary, "police departments"  (whatever that
%might mean) do NOT endorse the CLUB or similar devices.  Regardless of the
%quality of the lock, professional thieves don't even bother with it.  They
%simply cut the plastic rim of the steering wheel and remove the device.
%
%If your CLUB-equipped car hasn't been stolen, it's simply because nobody
%wanted it badly enough yet.  By the time they go to the trouble of breaking
%in, the CLUB is no deterrent.
%
%   John Cooley
%   Drive a piece of junk with a 300 hp engine.  No one will ever try to
%   break in or even bother looking at it!

 John, the chief of police for the Portland Or. police  department
 did tell me to get a Club after the recent thieft and recovery of
 my 1978 "beater" Toyota Corolla Wagon w/411k miles on it. 
 The kids used a blank key to unlock the door and start the car.
 The plastic steering wheel has a metal internal frame in it.
 When recovered, the blank key was still in the ignition! 
 The police chief said that 99% of all Japanese cars older than 1980
 that are stolen are recovered, and that the club would stop close
 to 100% of these from being stolen in the first place.
 Logic?
 Bill
From: jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: octane boosters (was Re: Broquet: Fuel Catalyst)
Date: 4 Sep 92 04:59:38 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.

samblane@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Sean Samblanet) writes:

>A question along these lines.  Does toluene or 104 octane boost or any
>octane booster raise the octane rating the same amount for 87 octane
>as 93 or 94 premium fuel?  100 octane fuel is much more expensive($3.50/gal)
>and hard to find.  Can any additive boost 94 octane to about 100 octane?

Dunno.  I've never tried it with anything other than "premium" from
the pump.  I don't have anyway to test octane (yet) so anything I told
you would be totally subjective.  Easiest thing to do is to test 
a mix against a known octane fuel under similar conditions.

john
-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC               |Interested in high performance mobility?  
Performance Engineering Magazine (TM) |
Marietta, Ga                         |Interested in high tech and computers? 
jgd@dixie.com                        |Write me about PE Magazine
Need Usenet public Access in Atlanta?  Write Me for info on Dixie.com.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: russell@ncube.com (Russell Randolph)
Subject: Re: Idle speed won't adjust lower than 1200RPM
Organization: nCUBE CORPORATION
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 23:24:45 GMT

(sorry if this is a repeat -- it appears the first attempt failed)

Peter.Hammond@brunel.ac.uk (Peter D Hammond) writes:
>Sorry Russel, I can offer no suggestions. I have a question: what are you 
>doing wafting all this propane around your engine? i.e., what is `propane
>enrichment' for mixture checking, and how do you look for carb leaks with
>propane?
>I have been looking for a way to find air leaks for a while. Is this what I
>have been looking for?

First, my problem is solved.  My throttle valve was not closing all the
way.  I had not removed the throttle plate before.  The set screws
holding it in place were EXTREMELY tight, so I don't see how it could
have slipped.  Judging from the marks on the wall of the carb, the
throttle plate had been like that for a long time.  

I adjusted the plate, and things are running great.

Thanks to everyone for the advice!


Now, on to propane (warning, I am NO expert, and this applies ONLY to
carburated cars) ...

First, due to emissions, cars idle 'lean'.  In the old days, you set the
idle mixture for the best (highest) idle.  On my carb, it should be set
lean such that adding propane to the intake can add 50RPM to the idle speed.

Given that, you can use propane to check for leaks.  If air is leaking
in around the carb, adding propane around the area would cause the idle
to increase.  This appears to be a common method for mechanics to check
for leaks.

What this doesn't tell you is if you have air entering thru a bad vacuum
system.

Russell Randolph
nCUBE, Beaverton, Oregon
russell@ncube.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas Rand)
Subject: Re: 84 BMW 318i Fuse Box
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Date: 1 Sep 92 13:32:37

In article <1992Aug31.204243.9740@ms.uky.edu> miles@ms.uky.edu (Stephen D. Grant) writes:

   I just recently purchased an 84 318i. Unfortunately, I don't have an owner's
   manual. I'm planning on ordering one from the Local BMW dealership.
   In the meantime, can anyone tell me what fuses do what?

   Any help would be useful. When I got the car, the speedometer wasn't working.
   I noticed it go up to 20 once, and hasn't worked since. I'm hoping that it
   is either a blown fuse or a minor electrical problem. The previous owner
   may have disconnected a wire when he removed his stereo system.

Most speedometers aren't electronic (even in BMWs :) ).  If this is  
a mechanical speedo then I'd check the cable to the transmission.
It could be broken, which tends not to be a real expensive repair.
--
Douglas S. Rand <drand@osf.org>		OSF/Motif Dev.
Snail:         11 Cambridge Center,  Cambridge,  MA  02142
Disclaimer:    I don't know if OSF agrees with me... let's vote on it.
Amateur Radio: KC1KJ
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: aftermarket cams and headers
Date: 31 Aug 92 12:29:48 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL


 When you modify part of the intake system (like the cam) and/or add headers
the mixture often needs to be adjusted. Headers generally require you to set
the mixture slightly richer. It's not just at idle either; the headers and
performance cams usually show their effects at higher RPM. We're talking
rejetting, maybe changing the power enrichment, etc. (Dunno what type
carb you have).

 The emissions guy probably only had two things to fiddle with - spark and
idle mix - and went as far as he could with them. Jacking the spark around
to fix a mixture problem isn't going to help performance much, as you noted.
My guess is he retarded it quite a bit to compensate for leanness. You can 
check this with a timing light. Older engines ran about 6 degrees BTDC, some
even less advanced at idle.

 Your ignition timing may also want optimization of the advance profile with
speed and vacuum. Your vacuum will probably have dropped if the cam was
"significant". There are sort of "standard" performance Chevy advance curves
which work for most everybody (try a Chevy Performance sort of book).

 Realize also that what is best for performance is not necessarily best for
emissions and you may have to make a yearly sacrifice to the Smog Gods and
then re-undo the damage (not in your case, but for post-'64s). Without a lot
of fancy control you may not be able to get both at once; and in fact even
the fancy control systems go "off the map" to give maximum power when you
nail the pedal down. 
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#