HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Roofing Question
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 92 17:17:56 GMT
Keywords: roofing flashing

In article <1992Aug25.134432.5368@hubcap.clemson.edu> hubcap@hubcap.clemson.edu (System Janitor) writes:
> * If you don't have either of these problems, you can leave the drip edges
> * off. 
>
>Unless it never rains where you live, don't leave the drip edge off. A good
>drip edge keeps water off the verticle surface (say, your fascia) that it
>protects.

I've never seen a roof in which the fascia board was put up flush with
the edge of the roof. Common practice where I've worked is to let the
edge roof board or plywood stick out at least an inch (which keeps water
off the fascia). If the fascia boards on your house *are* installed flush,
drip edges certainly can't hurt.

A drip edge only covers and guards the edge of your plywood - nothing
more, and leaving the shingles and felt long does the same thing.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | If you take a dog which is starving and feed him
George Patterson -  | and make him prosperous, that dog will not bite
                    | you. This is the primary difference between a dog
                    | and a man.             Samuel Clemens
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: n9020351@henson.cc.wwu.edu (James Douglas Del-Vecchio)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: suggested weapons (was: Killing burglars.)
Date: 28 Aug 92 15:32:01 GMT
Article-I.D.: henson.1992Aug28.153201.28039
Organization: Western Washington University

n9020351@henson.cc.wwu.edu (James Douglas Del-Vecchio) writes:

>	A pellet of 00 buck (.36" diameter) is still potentialy very 
>lethal after 100 yards of air (or several sheetrock walls) according

	Typo.  Make that .33" diameter.

>Magnum loads are in the 
>neighborhood of 2.4 oz of shot at about 1200 fps.   (Rem has a 12 ga
>3" mag load with 15 pellets of 00 buck).

	And make that 1.9 oz at about 1200 fps.
From: smb@ulysses.att.com (Steven Bellovin)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Kitchen counters, Roof repairs, Carpets
Keywords: new house jitters
Date: 27 Aug 92 23:49:51 GMT

In article <1992Aug27.161738.1720@porthos.cc.bellcore.com>, patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie) writes:
> And *proper ventilation is critical*. Both lacquer thinner and contact cement
> vapours are toxic. If you start getting headachey, quit.

There are water-based contact cements.  They're supposed to be much
gentler to use, and -- according to the latest issue of Fine
Woodworking -- bond just as well, at on non-porous surfaces.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: jeff@jlk.b11.ingr.com (Jeff Kilpatrick)
Subject: Re: Eletric dryer - running but not drying
Reply-To: jeff@jlk.b11.ingr.com
Organization: Intergraph Corp. Huntsville, AL
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 16:40:10 GMT

In article <24358@oasys.dt.navy.mil>, diprosp@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Michael DiProspero) writes:
|> I recently purchased a home in which the washer/dryer combo was included
|> by the previous homeowner.  Everything was fine for about a month -
|> but a couple of days ago when I tried to dry a load of clothes the
|> dryer kept on running and running, but never got hot.  The dryer is
|> a Kenmore and electric (I forget the model number).  Does anyone have
|> any ideas what might be causing this?  Thanks.
|> 

  Check the fuse/breaker box.  I've got a kenmore that would act the same...
after  it blew a fuse; which it would do every couple of months.
From: egreen@east.sun.com (Ed Green - Pixel Cruncher)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Credit report
Date: 4 Sep 1992 18:47:13 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, RTP, NC
Distribution: world
Reply-To: egreen@east.sun.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: laser.east.sun.com

In article 7046@sserve.cc.adfa.oz.au, rim@csadfa.cs.adfa.oz.au (Bob McKay) writes:
>egreen@east.sun.com (Ed Green - Pixel Cruncher) writes:
>
>>If the source of inaccurate information maintains that it is indeed
>>accurate, that is exactly your responsibility.  TRW is under no legal
>>obligation to you (how could they be, you don't pay them anything! :^)
>
>Is this entirely true? I would have thought (at least in common law
>jurisdictions) that a suit for slander would be available, and given the
>cost that a bad credit report can impose, that significant damages could
>be assessed.

Well, you can sue anybody for any reason...

My point is that TRW is in the business of taking information from
credit suppliers, compiling and storing it, and selling it to others in
the credit business.  Their only relationship to you is that the
information happens to be about you!  If a bank tells them you
defaulted on a million dollar loan, that goes into your file.  If you
dispute it, they will ask that bank for verification.  If the bank
insists you did, it stays in your file.  If you want to sue anybody for
slander, or the consequent damage to you, you have to sue the bank.
TRW just bought and sold the information, they didn't originate it, and
they are under no obligation to hire investigators and independantly
verify it.  Also, TRW had no malice aforethought (or some similar legal
term) when they put that information in your file.  I doubt if you
would have much luck sueing them.

---
Ed Green, former Ninjaite |I was drinking last night with a biker,
  Ed.Green@East.Sun.COM   |and I showed him a picture of you.  I said,
DoD #0111  (919)460-8302  |"Go on, get to know her, you'll like her!"
 (The Grateful Dead) -->  |It seemed like the least I could do...

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: mss2696@tamsun.tamu.edu (Mark Saum)
Subject: Re: Electronic Peephole
Organization: Texas A&M University, College Station
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 18:42:36 GMT

In article <BtHwns.3u6@news.cso.uiuc.edu> tmkk@uiuc.edu (Khan) writes:
>
>I'm looking for a source for a small video camera to be used as an
>electronic peephole in an apartment door. Because the unit is rented, I
>don't have the ability to mount a video camera outside the door, nor do
>I have the authority to cut big holes in the door to mount the type of
>camera featured in a recent Heath catalog (and besides, that one is
>$500). I'm hoping there is a small video camera which will be able to
>make use of the existing peephole in the door, thus requiring no major
>modifications to install (and can be removed and taken with me when I
>move out). If anyone knows of a source for equipment of this type,
>please let me know. Thanks very much.
>

Sony sold something a while back that would be perfect( ~5yrs?)  The size of 
the camera was about the size of the peephole.  It was called a camera man or
something of the sort.  Black and white hand-held video display, and 
remote camera (wire-line) about the size of a AA battery.

Mark

-- 
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Mark Saum                             |                    Texas A&M University 
Senior BANA/MIS Major                 |                  College Station, Texas
mss2696@tamsun.tamu.edu               |       Programmer, Department of Physics 
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: safety vs suggested weapons
From: gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston)
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 92 21:27:54 CDT
Organization: Garys' Home for Obsolete Computers

janowsky@math.rutgers.edu (Steven Janowsky) writes:

> In article <27AUG199213073583@utkvx2.utk.edu> drevik@utkvx2.utk.edu (Drevik, 
> 
> > Recommended load:  first round would a hand-packed salt round (I'm
> > a liberal and my goal is to scare the guy off).  Second round is
> > run-of-the-mill birdshot.  Last five rounds are 00 buckshot (BIG pellets
> > and the guy won't get up).
> 
> In order to have different loads in the weapon you have to store it
> loaded.  Not necessarily a good idea.
> 
> I think you want an easy to load weapon so you can store it unloaded.
> 
> This would rule out revolvers for me.

Get a speedloader.

Gary Heston, at home....
gary@cdthq.uucp
From: marks@ssdevo.enet.dec.com (Randy Marks)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Advice: Sundance Spas
Date: 1 Sep 92 16:27:59 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Digital Equipment Corp. - Colorado Springs


In article <1992Aug31.193548.27676@brtph560.bnr.ca>, jthomas@brtph98.bnr.ca (James Thomas P215) writes...
> 
>    I am considering buying a Sundance Cameo 800 Spa (which
>happens to be a "Best Buy" in Consumers Digest this month,
>.......  Any bargaining tips?
 Sure.  Buy it in February.  You can probably knock off $1k from the price
the dealer wants for it now.

	Randy Marks 

(UUCP)	                {decvax,ucbvax,allegra}!decwrl!ssdevo.enet!marks
(INTERNET)              marks@ssdevo.enet.dec.com
(domain-based INTERNET) marks%ssdevo.enet@decwrl.dec.com
..........................................................................
	"No man's life, liberty, or property is safe
	while the legislature is in session."
..........................................................................
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,misc.consumers
Subject: Re: Credit report
From: gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston)
Date: Thu, 03 Sep 92 19:26:31 CDT
Organization: Garys' Home for Obsolete Computers

msingh@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (The Supreme Commander) writes:

> USA Today reported (apparently):
> 
> >   You can get a copy of your credit report once a year from TRW by
> >    writing to TRW Consumer Assistance, POB 2350, Chatsworth, CA
> >    91313-2350.  Include all of the following: full name including
> >    middle initial and generation such as Jr, Sr, III; current address
> >    and ZIP code; previous addresses and ZIPs for past five years;
> >    Social Security number; year of birth; spouse's first name.
> >    Include a photocopy of a billing statement, utility bill, driver's
> >    license, or other document that links your name with the address
> >    where the report should be mailed.
> 
> I would be very hesitant to provide all of this information. Providing
> all that information will make it just that much easier for them to
> "update" their information on you. IMHO credit agencies have no right
> to keep all this information on me!

I agree completely. Especially considering the lousy security on
their systems, I don't want them to have an accurate address, SSN,
DLN, or DOB; whether or not I have a spouse isn't their business
(interesting how much mail I get addressed to one, though), and 
they certainly don't need to see any of my bills. The only 
circumstance in which I'd give them anything to send a copy of
whatever they've got on me is if they provided a *written* guarantee
that none of it would be entered into their files. This is a *great*
data gathering scam, for them.

> If you want to obtain a report, your full name and social security
> number is all you need. USA today seems to be encouraging one to
> contact TRW and make it easy for TRW to "create" or "update" your
> report at the same time. Only a fool would make a copy of their
> driver's license or some sort of bill. If they want proof of address,
> send them the envelope someone sent you.

Or, buy a house like I did last year. I know the credit agency that
checked me has my SSN and street name wrong, so if anyone cracks 
their system, I'm safe. Bozos....

Gary Heston, at home...
gary@cdthq.uucp
From: cantrell@seqp4.sequoia.com (Paul Cantrell)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Killing burglars.
Date: 1 Sep 92 17:16:06 GMT
Organization: Sequoia Computer Systems

Sam Southard writes:
> >>When the burglar is in my house, I am not going to wait for him to prove
> >>himself guilty of intent to do me or my family harm.  When you're fighting
> >>for your life (as you are in this case.  Or at least may be - you have no
> >>way of knowing), innocent until proven guilty has much too high a cost, and
> >>the people who would pay for it (the burgled families) are not the right
> >>people to bear the cost.

And then David Paigen writes:

> >This represents to me a callous disregard for the life of another.  Mind
> >you, I WOULD shoot an invader in my home if they made any threatening
> >moves, but as long as they "FREEZE!," "PUT THE GUN DOWN SLOWLY!," and
> >"LIE FACE DOWN ON THE FLOOR WITH YOUR HANDS ON YOUR HEAD!," I have no reason
> >to shoot.
> >
> >Furthermore, the use of preemptive, deadly force (e.g. shooting in the
> >back) is dishonorable and likely to land you in jail for murder-2 or
> >voluntary manslaughter.

and then Sam Southard responds:

>        In the very same post I mentioned the conditions under which I
> would shoot the person and how I would try to prevent having to shoot the
> person. Those included him ignoring a command to "Freeze" or making some
> other type of threatening motion.

Beating a dead horse, I say:

Boy are you guys charitable. I don't have any major gripes with what Sam
Southard is saying. If there was an intruder in my house, and no sign of a
weapon, I might give him the chance to freeze. And, as Sam says, if he
then made a threatening move (which is almost any move at all) I'd empty
the gun into him.

But the articles seemed to suggest that the intruder was armed. In this
case, I don't think I'd give any warning. There's only one reason an
intruder has a gun with him in my house, and that's to use on me. Any sort
of warning from me increases the chance of him using it on me successfully,
so he won't get it.

As for David Paigen saying that shooting someone in the back is
dishonorable and likely to land me in jail, so be it. All my martial
training says you don't try to be fair or honorable, you try to be the one
left alive. If someone brings a firearm into my house, I figure he
declared war on me, and I'll dispatch him as quickly as possible. If that
means shooting him in the back without warning, ...

I suspect that facing an armed intruder in real life is very different
than anyone who hasn't had it happen can imagine. So discussing to death
what we will or will not do is probably pointless. I'll be good now, and
take any further discussion to rec.guns.

					PC
-- 
cantrell@sequoia.com
From: mark@e7sa.epi.syr.ge.com (Mark Duening)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Staining my cedar siding
Date: 31 Aug 92 17:50:33 GMT
Reply-To: mark@e7sa.epi.syr.ge.com
Organization: General Electric


I have an 18 year old ranch-style house with stained cedar siding.  The
siding is looking a little ratty and I'm planning on re-staining it.
My plan is this:  Get one of those high pressure power washers and
spray down the entire house.  Then, re-stain the whole thing.  My
questions are these:
	1.  Does this sound like a good plan?
	2.  What type of stain should I use?  Some say latex based stain, 
	    others say oil based.
	3.  What is the best method of applying the stain?
	4.  Any other words of advice?

Thanks,

Mark 
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


                          - --  ___@           Yes, there IS life
                        ---- __T\  \_          outside of work!!
                       - -- / /\_>/\ \
____________________________\__/__\__/____________________________


						Mark Duening
						mark@e7sa.epi.syr.ge.com
From: cola@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (Ken Colasuonno)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 16:10:01 GMT
Subject: Re: Which garage door opener to use?
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house

> Not only does our Sears sound horrible, both its button and remote control
> operate intermittently.  I don't recommend you buy one.  I was very happy
> with the Stanley I had in my previous house.

I had a Sears "T-rail" type of opener and I hated it because of the
noise.  No amount of grease or futzing would fix it.  I tried lots of
iterations on the quantity of grease for this.  From almost none to
lots.  Nothing helped.  But it worked ok mechanically. 

I am much happier with my 1/2hp Stanley chain drive.  It works and it
isn't noisy.  With my kids bedrooms directly above the garage, this is
big deal for me.

Ken
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: doshay@ursa.arc.nasa.gov (David Doshay)
Subject: Re: Question of Kitchen appliances, Are there small dishwashers, etc
Organization: NASA-Ames Biocomputation Center
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 23:41:10 GMT

In article <1992Aug28.025518.14092@news.Hawaii.Edu>, bill@gaza.uhcc.Hawaii.Edu (William J. King) writes:
|> 
|> 
|> 	Does any company make smaller dishwashers, and 
|> 	clothes washers for under the counter installation?
|> 	(Are there front loading clothes washers?)
|> 	I prefer not Sears, but only if none of the 
|> 	major brands make the desired small size.
|>

No comment on the clothes washer, but we have been very happy with our
Sears compact dish-washer. So happy, in fact that we intend to install
our 6 year old portable into an under the counter installation in our
recently purchased house, removing the full sized unit that is there.
This unit needs to have the impeller and food grinder replaced every few
years, but it is not hard to do and the parts cost about $12.

David		doshay@soma.arc.nasa.gov

The thought police insist I tell you:
my thoughts, not NASA's
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis)
Subject: Re: Spray Foam Follies
Organization: OSF Research Institute
Date: 31 Aug 92 10:58:13

In article <6021@atlas.cs.nps.navy.mil> erickson@atlas.cs.nps.navy.mil (David Erickson) writes:

   ...We decided not to use tyvek or an equivalent, relying on
   interior paint to act as a moisture barrier....

Some interior paints or primers are effective moisture barriers (e.g.
Pratt and Lambert's Lyt-All Double Duty Primer).  Tyvek is explicitly
NOT a vapor barrier.  It is a wind barrier which is vapor permeable,
as it should be.

	-s
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: sullivan@alw.nih.gov (Jim Sullivan)
Subject: Insulated Drywall?
Organization: National Inst. of Health, DCRT, CSL
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 15:25:42 GMT

My Honey-Do weekend project is to box in some ducts we had
installed through a closet when we had heat and A/C put in.  
The ducts take up a lot of space and I have only about an 
inch of space left over between the hanging clothes and the ducts. 

Since the ducts are cold with the A/C on and hot with the
heat on, I need to insulate them, but the insulation will take
up space.  I don't need a lot of insulation, maybe about a
half inch of solid foam insulation.

I was wondering whether there exists an insulating material
similar to drywall (i.e nice finish and paintable) which I 
can use and thus save the precious inch of space in the closet. 
It would basically be a 1/2" drywall like product with a high
insulation value (i.e. R-4).  I presume such a thing would be
expensive and thus not in found your neighborhood hardware store 
but since I only need a small amount, it might be worth it.

Anyone know of such a beast?

Thanks in advance...

-- 
Jim Sullivan 		[ The future ain't what it used to be ]
National Institutes of Health
Bethesda, MD 20892
Phone: (301) 496-5362
FAX: (301) 402-2867
Internet: sullivan@alw.nih.gov
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Kitchen counters, Roof repairs, Carpets
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 92 16:17:38 GMT
Keywords: new house jitters

In article <26AUG199223034273@summa.tamu.edu> pzs3761@summa.tamu.edu (SIERANT, PETER ZIEMOWIT) writes:

>1) The house has kitchen counters and cabinets of a dark cherry persuasion.
>   The net effect is almost depressing, it's so dark. I'm thinking of
>   replacing the countertops with a brighter fake wood. How plausible
>   is tearing up and replacing the formica, as opposed to replacing the
>   whole countertop. (24 ft., U-shape, 1 sink hole, curved up to meet wall)

Try paint/stain remover followed by wood bleaches on some of the wood first.
If it's actually cherry, that's a beautiful wood, and fairly light in it's
natural state.  The problem is that most manufacturers stain the stuff
"cherry", which is intended to reproduce the effect of 200 year old wood
covered with 200 year old varnish.

On the countertop. There was a thread recently to the effect that you
take this up with lacquer thinner. Apply the thinner at the edge and let
it work on the glue that hold the stuff down (usually contact cement).
After no more than a minute, get a scraper in the joint, peel the stuff up
a little, and get more thinner in place. Work it off gradually.

Put your new plastic down with contact cement per the directions. Pile books
or anything else on to weigh it down for 10 hours or so when you do it.

And *proper ventilation is critical*. Both lacquer thinner and contact cement
vapours are toxic. If you start getting headachey, quit.

Bits for routers are available to trim the edges of the plastic. Other
methods can be used, but they're somewhat labor-intensive.

>2) This is Texas, and shingles don't last very long in direct sunlight.
>   The roof has a patch about 10 ft per side where the bottoms of the
>   shingles are curled. I'm considering an overlay instead of a completely
>   new roof for the obvious financial reasons. The overlay has a 12 year
>   pro-rated warranty. Comments?

Most codes allow no more than three layers of shingles, and I wouldn't
apply more than two. White is the only color to use there.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | If you always tell the truth, you never
                    | have to remember what you said.
                    |                        Samuel Clemens
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: dealy@kong.gsfc.nasa.gov (Brian Dealy - CSC)
Subject: water pipes started vibrating
Reply-To: dealy@kong.gsfc.nasa.gov (Brian Dealy - CSC)
Organization: Goddard Space Flight Center
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 92 12:12:13 GMT



-- 
Hi, 
	All of a sudden yesterday my pipes started to vibrate whenever 
	we turn on a faucet. Actually when we do it real slow we dont notice
	it but flushing the toilet makes the pipes vibrate also. Is there a simple
	explanation for this? perhaps air in the pipe or something?
	Thanks for any tips. 
Brian Dealy
dealy@kong.gsfc.nasa.gov
From: becker@edwards-vax.af.mil
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Help! Does anyone own a shed?
Date: 3 Sep 92 06:43:41 -0800
Organization: IFAST - EDWARDS Air Force Base

From: tjs4525@hertz.njit.edu (Theodore Stites) writes....

>	I posted a request for shed info about 2 weeks ago and since have
>
>Info wanted:   what materials to use or avoid(galv steel,vinyl,wood),

Well, it really depends on what you want.  Is this shed going to be
permenante or movable?  Sheds made from wood last much longer ( keep in 
mind that you do want to protect the wood with some sort or sealer/paint)
galv steel and vinyl I'm sure last as well, but you'd need to figure how
much material you need for the size you want and go price them and do what
you can afford.  


>              foundation - what kind is good(concrete or stone or patio block),

Here again, do you want the shed permenante or movable?  What will be stored
in the shed?????? That  pretty much determines what kind of flooring you want.

>               build my own out of 2x4's and plywood or prefab,

How much money do you want to spend?  Buying a prefab shed on sale is pretty
a pretty good deal!  Can't beat the price by making it yourself thats for sure!

>               durability and water resistance,

I find that either is durable.  I prefer my wood shed that I built, but hey,
my prefab works fine too.  One drawback of the prefab is that it dings and
its noisy when you are in there if you drop something or bang into the side
by accident.  It also dings up easy, but if you're careful they can stay 
looking great!


>               costs for different types,

You need to go out and bargin hunt.  Costs vary from season to season!

>               has anyone had one built for them by Sears,Rickel, or HomeDepot.

no, sorry.

Good luck!

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house