HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: pshyvers@pyrnova.mis.pyramid.com (Peter Shyvers)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Chevrolet 2.3L bogs down ...
Date: 21 Jul 92 03:37:40 GMT
Reply-To: pshyvers@pyrnova.pyramid.com (Peter Shyvers)
Organization: Pyramid Technology Corp., Mountain View, CA
Originator: daemon@sword.eng.pyramid.com

Our '87 Celebrity wagon has been giving me fits on the freeway; when we try to
accelerate from 50-55 for passing, or give it additional gas to make the
upslope of a hill, it bogs down, autoshifting down occassionally into 2nd.a
Engine RPM will fall off, and we'll get plenty of black exhaust, until we're
in the worst case in first gear. 

The engine, yes, is only the 2.3L 4-cylinder, but loads of the Celebrities
have them, and we've had four trouble-free years where this problem never
presented itself with typical loads.

As this is (a) somewhat rare, and (b) seems to require a hot day, and (c) a long
freeway climb, and (d) the Fates to smile on us, I've yet to be able to
reproduce the situation  for my mechanic.

Anyone else seen this?

And has anyone out there done a swap of the 2.8L turbocharged 6-cylinder for
one of these (I love the whine as the turbo kicks in!)??
From: borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1992 16:03:48 GMT
Subject: Re: Brake Peddle problem.
Organization: Hewlett Packard Company, Spokane, Wa.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

In rec.autos.tech, leath@atlas.cs.upei.ca (Stephen Leath) writes:

>The brake peddle on my 85 Dodge Caravan stops after being depressed about 1
>inch. It is like hitting a steel wall. THe pads are new the rotors have been
>refaced and the calipers have been checked, any suggestions ? What would be
>the symptoms of air in the brake lines ?

If you have to push the pedal hard in order to stop, it could be that the
vacuum hose to the power brake unit has come off, or is leaky or plugged.
Or, the vacuum boost unit (that large cylindrical thing attached to the
master cylinder) is bad.


Donald Borowski    WA6OMI    Hewlett-Packard, Spokane Division
"Angels are able to fly because they take themselves so lightly."
                                       -G.K. Chesterton

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump Relay
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 12:49:26 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 Cars with electronic fuel injection (EFI) use an electric fuel pump to 
run gasoline at high pressure to the injectors. Some carbureted cars also
use electric pumps. These pumps use a fair amount of current. The electrical
loads in new cars are too high to run directly off the small ignition
switch, so makers have gone to using relays for the heavy-demand loads and
use the ignition circuit for the control signal to the relays instead of
direct power.

 A relay is an electro-mechanically activated switch. Instead of manually
moving a lever or rocker to open and close the contacts, you apply a small
amount of current to the relay coil. The coil pulls on the contactor arm
magnetically and the arm moves from one set of contacts to the other. The
arm and contacts are able to pass much more current than the coil requires.
Because of this you can control a lot of current with a little.
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: shoppa@erin.caltech.edu (TIM SHOPPA)
Subject: Manual vs. Auto lifetime
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: California Institute of Technology
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1992 19:27:00 GMT

Hello,
	When I was looking for a car, many people told me to get a manual
because they are much more fun to drive, give better acceleration, and better
mileage.  A few people told me that an automatic would last much longer, from
their experience.  I ended up with an automagic because I didn't want the
hassle of using a manual in stop-and-go driving but was wondering what the
people on the net thought of the lifetime of these transmissions?  I have
seen many automatics happily working at 150,000 miles with zero
maintenance while it seems to me that at this point on a manual there would 
have been several clutch replacements at the very least, and the gears
sometimes are starting to show wear.  Any comments or experience?

					Tim (Shoppa@erin.caltech.edu)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sjs@torque.bae.bellcore.com (Steve Szymanski)
Subject: Re: How to use blue silicone RTV
Reply-To: ricks@berkeley.edu
Organization: Bell Communications Research
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 92 15:20:49 GMT

In article <5342@naucse.cse.nau.edu>, met@naucse.cse.nau.edu (Millam Tackitt) writes:
|> In article <1992Jul28.010208.22898@leland.Stanford.EDU> eap@leland.Stanford.EDU (Eric Perozziello) writes:
|> >In article <1992Jul27.181337.21819@Arco.COM> ericc@Arco.COM (Chang Eric(214)754-3562) writes:
|> >>I have a water pump in my car which just started leaking.  I fugured that the
|> >>gasket was worn out, and, upon opening it up, discovered that it was.  It had
|> >>completely hardned and was brittle enough so it did not seal.  I was advised
|> >>to build a new gasket out of blue RTV.  The instructions on the blister pack
|> >>were clear and explicit.  I laid down a 1/8" bead and screwed the bolts back in
|> >
-- 

One thing that comes to mind since I just did the intake manifold on
my '87 Trans Am.  In the case of a water pump it may or may not matter,
but on new cars (e.g sensor equipped), I have been told on more than
one occasion that you should get "sensor safe" silcone.  I suppose that
the chemical composition may destroy the sensors otherwise.

Any comments on this?

Steve
******************************************************************************

Disclaimer:

The opinions expressed herein are solely my own and are not shared by Bellcore
nor any of its owner companies.

******************************************************************************

Steve Szymanski 
Bellcore 				RRC-1E222
444 Hoes Lane				(908)699-5026
Piscataway, NJ  08854			sjs@bae.bellcore.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk (Codesmiths)
Subject: Re: Oil Drain Plug Is Stuck
Cc: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Reply-To: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 20:32:48 +0000


> -> If the head is not completely ruined, go and buy a set of 6-point
> -> sockets and a ratchet. A good 6-point will hold on much better
> 
>  You can do better than that.
> 
>  Some years ago I bought a set of Snap-On "Flank Drive" sockets.


I second that - those things (6 point flank drive sockets) are
incredible. The flank drive open end spanners (wrenches) are equally
useful. Wasn't too impressed with the 12-point flank drives (sockets
or ring spanners) though.

          Andy Dingley    dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
From: dye@i88.isc.com (Ken R. Dye )
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: JC Whitney in Chicago ?
Date: 21 Jul 92 19:25:00 GMT
Article-I.D.: i88.1992Jul21.192500.2303
Organization: INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation, Naperville, IL

In article <1992Jul20.165016.13900@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> dje@japan.Berkeley.EDU (Don Eilenberger) writes:
>In article <1992Jul20.162614.27234@usenet.ins.cwru.edu>, jxs18@po.CWRU.Edu (Jerry Sy) writes:
>|> 
>|> I will be in Chicago sometime soon, and I think JC Whitney is located
>|> in Chicago.
>|> 
>|> I am thinking of checking out their store, if they have one for
>|> walk in customers.  anybody knows their location in chicago ?
>|> 
>|> thanks
>|> 
>|> jerry
>|> 
>
>
>Jerry.. interesting that you should think of this. I had a friend
>who did just what you suggest, and he found the following:
>
>The address given (notice it ends with a 1/2) on Archer Street
>is simply a hole in the wall office. Whitney's does not stock

	Hmmm...15 years ago it may have been different, but now,
there is a large main store where you can pick up orders, look
at a bunch of antique cars on display, and rummage through piles
of rejected stuff, mostly $1-$5 for anything.  Just make sure
you call your "will call" order in the *day before* you visit,
and tell them you want it *that night*.  This assures you of a modest
chance that they will actually have the stuff in from the warehouse
by the time of your next day visit.

	Whitney is their mail-order outlet that has slightly lower
prices.  The local store is Warshawsky & Co.; they are one and the
same.  The showroom is on State and Archer, just south of 18th
street, downtown chicago, near chinatoown.

	We usually make Saturday morning runs, then stop for a really
good Mexican breakfast at Nuevo Leon, on 18th street (mucho hispanic
neighborhood).

--Ken
-- 
Ken R. Dye				an optimist is a guy		 |
Interactive Systems Corp., Chicago	that has never had		 | 
(800) LAI-UNIX x341			much experience			 |
dye@i88.isc.comm						archy	 |
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mbrown@convex.com (Mark Brown)
Subject: Re: cleaning gas tank
Organization: CONVEX Computer Corporation, Richardson, Tx., USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 21:59:49 GMT
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by a user at CONVEX Computer
              Corp. The opinions expressed are those of the user and
              not necessarily those of CONVEX.

I had a 1940-something Army 6x6 with a tank full of rust and water. We 
pulled it and had it steam cleaned at a radiator shop. You should've seen
the rust flakes that came out of it! It dried out OK after a day in
the sun. It ran all summer without clogging the fuel filter, but
then we sold it.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: CCMG <CCMG@MUSICA.MCGILL.CA>
Subject: GM OIL
Organization: McGill University
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 06:58:01 GMT

Hi there,I bring my 1989 Z24 to the GM dealer for oil changes.
I asked once and they mentioned they use GM oil.I was wondering
is this oil inferior to say CASTROL,VALVOLINE..etc....or is
there not much of a difference.Also would it be worth it to
use CASTROL or VALVOLINE from now on?

                                         Giovanni


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: butler@quest.comm.mot.com (Jim Butler)
Subject: Camaro/Firebird clubs in Chicago area? 
Reply-To: butler@quest.comm.mot.com (Jim Butler)
Organization: Land Mobile Products Sector, Motorola, Inc.
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 15:01:54 GMT
Keywords: camaro firebird club chicago


	Is anyone aware of a Camaro/Firebird (GM F body) special interest
group in the Chicago or Chicago suburban area?  I'm interested in getting
all of the information I can on the '70-'81 model years (interchanging
parts, axles, brakes, etc., etc.)

	I appreciate any help.

	Jim

--
Jim Butler (butler@Quest.comm.mot.com)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: eap@leland.Stanford.EDU (Eric Perozziello)
Subject: Re: Increasing power?
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 92 18:53:11 GMT

>
> Automatics excel at some things. The torque converter beats a clutch hands
>down for things like towing, pulling a boat up the ramp, or launching off 

OR plowing snow, if you come from an area that gets it!!!!!!
Clutches can be gone in one snow season on a truck.
The changing of directions acccompanied by hard pushing, slippage, etc
heat up the disc and kill it fast!  Auto's are the only way to go IMHO
for snow plowing!


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hsong@ardour.bellcore.com
Subject: Stepping-Up the car body
Reply-To: hsong@ardour.bellcore.com
Organization: Bellcore
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 92 19:00:24 GMT


Hi,

I would like to raise the car body against the wheel axle.  Is there
any decent way of doing this in a house garage?  I have been thinking
of step-up devices made of rubber which go in between the spring and
the upper spring holder of wheel struts.
The trouble is that I might need a special tool to vise the spring.
Has anybody have done a strut job at home with or without the vise?
If it is necessary to have this vise,  how much is this vise?

Thank you.

        Hugh

PS: Please email.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sharen@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com (Sharen A. Rund)
Subject: GOODGUYS Northwest Get-Together - Salaem, OR
Organization: Lockheed Missiles and Space Co.
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 92 21:40:57 GMT

I'm heading out for Salem for the Get-Together - weather look's good -
lots of cars - lots of merchants/manufacturer's reps - music - a
good time for all this weekend - at the Oregon State Fair grounds
in Salem, OR




-- 
________________       __        ________________   "They that can give up
\_________      \     /_ \      /      _________/  essential liberty to 
 \_________      \_____/  \____/      _________/  obtain temporary safety
  \___________________      __________________/  deserve neither liberty 
                     /______\                   nor safety."  
ALL disclaimers apply ....                           --Benjamin Franklin
	  
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: carl@genie.slhs.udel.edu (Carl Devore)
Subject: Re: Carbon Buildup in engines ( valves ? ).....
Summary: cleaning engine with water and other solvents
Keywords: engine cleaners, water, alcohol, solvents
Organization: UDel, School of Life & Health Sciences
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 04:08:23 GMT

In article <1992Jul23.013236.10486@leland.Stanford.EDU> eap@leland.Stanford.EDU (Eric Perozziello) writes:
>If that doesn't work, I have a method
>I've used for years, and it works: Take about 1 qt of water and slowly
>dribble it into the intake airstream of the hot, running engine. it 
>may take 15 minutes to use all the water- set the idle fast if you desire.
>You can try this over and over. Try running the engine hard between 
>doses (up hills at full throttle). The next best thing is 1). install
>a water injection system, or 2). disassmeble and clean!

I assume that it would be better to start with hot water.  A friend of mine
has used rubbing alcohol (70% isopropanol) for the same thing.  Why not just
use one of the many solvents sold expressly for this purpose?  They're only
a few bucks.

carl@genie.slhs.udel.edu   Newark, DE, USA.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk (Codesmiths)
Subject: Re: GM OIL
Cc: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Reply-To: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 12:16:51 +0000


> I bring my 1989 Z24 to the GM dealer for oil changes.
> I asked once and they mentioned they use GM oil.I was wondering
> is this oil inferior to say CASTROL,VALVOLINE..etc....

I'd be very surprised if GM actually make their own oil. They usually
just buy it from one of the well-known manufacturers, in GM labelled
tins.

I'd switch oils. The quality might not be any different, but the
manufacturer branded oils are over-priced (in the UK).

It's a pleasing fact of modern oil technology that almost any cheap
modern oil is better than the best stuff available 20 years ago.
There just isn't a significant difference in effective quality any
more. This position changes slightly if you want a really high
performance oil, as for a turbo, but how necessary these
over-specified oils are in the average "shopping trolley" is
debatable. This is especially true in the US - In Europe I think
nothing of hauling a fairly large & heavy car for 4 or 5 hours at a
constant 90mph, all on a hard-worked 1800cc engine. In the US, with
your lower (and enforced) speed limits you just don't have the same
load placed on your big engines.

Regular filter changes make much more difference to engine wear than
the oil brand.

          Andy Dingley    dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mrmike@geta.life.uiuc.edu (Mike McCaughey)
Subject: Re: MPG on 4WD's
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 19:50:40 GMT

singletn@eagle.larc.nasa.gov (Jeff Singleton) writes:

>In article <1992Jul30.131703.7543@cs.tulane.edu>,
>finnegan@invader.navo.navy.mil (Kenneth Finnegan) wrote:
>>

<Lots o' stuff deleted>

You guys are spoiled. Let's see, a '90 Trooper @17mpg,
a '92 Explorer XLT @20-24mpg...geez!

I've got a 79 Jeep Wagoneer with a 360 V8 overbored by 0.030"
with QuadraTrac full-time 4WD. On a good day with a strong tail wind
on a dead-flat Illinois highway I get 10 mpg. I don't even like
to think about city mileage.

Fiddling around to engage the front hubs doesn't seem so bad 
anymore, does it?
 
>  Your mileage may vary.

You bet it does...

>    jeff singleton

mrmike
From: gss@btcase.bt.co.uk (Graham Sewell)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Should I go to a mechanic?
Date: 27 Jul 92 09:06:41 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: British Telecom, Lion House, London.

agrawal@lipari.usc.edu (Amitabh Agrawal) writes:


>Hi, 

>My friend has a 91 Toyota Corolla which has developed this problem.
>When the door is closed there is a rubber lining which helps in making
>the seal. Once he accidently developed a crack (cut) in this lining.
>This causes a problem in the sound insulation and therefore needs to
>be fixed. I thought that just putting some tape on the lining might be
>a better (more cost effective) soln than replacing the lining. What do
>you guys think? What sort of tape should he use?

>Thanks in advance

Amit Agrawal,

A similar thing happened to my Opel Manta, the cost of the replacement
seal was about UK#20 and took 5 minutes to fit.
-- 
Graham Sewell                          Tel   +44 71 728 4851
Unix TP and Database Unit              Fax   +44 71 728 4883
PP506, Lion House, 72-75 Red Lion St, LONDON. WC1R 4RT
gss@btcase.bt.co.uk
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bae@hplsdll.col.hp.com (Bruce Erickson)
Subject: Left turn light acting verrry strange -- help!
Summary: turn signal problem only when parking lights turned on
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 1992 20:35:01 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Logic Systems Operation
Keywords: hazard lights, turn signals

Oh gurus of the auto electrical world -- please help me!

I have an 86 S10 Blazer that just started having the following problem:

   When the lights are on (either parking lights or headlights), the
   left turn light indicator (on the dash board) comes on and the
   left turn lights (front & back both) don't come on (they should!).

   When I push on the left-turn signal, they flash (but a little faster
   than normal).

   When the parking lights are off, the signals & indicator behave
   normally.

   For further enjoyment, if the parking lights are on, and I press
   the hazard button, all lights flash normally -- *except* the left
   turn lights which flash "on" when the other lights flash "off" and
   visa versa!  The hazard lights work normally when the parking lights
   are off.

Anybody have a hint as to the problem?

                  Thanks a lot!
                  - Bruce Erickson
                  bae@col.hp.com
From: fagundes@iastate.edu (Alex Fagundes)
Subject: Distributor cap related problem???
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames IA
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 1992 05:26:56 GMT

Hi, 
  Whenever I start my 76 maverick, it idles and runs like crap for the first
5 minutes; like the pistons are firing out of order. If the weather is humid,
it runs like hell for longer periods of time.  I heard that the problem might be an old distributor cap??
Any information would be helpfull.
thank you very much......
From: pcw@flutter.tv.tek.com (Patrick C. Wilkins)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Toyota fault codes
Date: 24 Jul 92 01:04:36 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Tektronix TV Products

Buy a Haynes manual.
--

-------------------------------------------------------------------
    Pat Wilkins II
    A.K.A. Clif
    Email pcw@flutter.tv.tek.com
    Work 503-627-6525

-------------------------------------------------------------------
    Is Deja-vu real or is life just redundant???????
-------------------------------------------------------------------
From: jimv@hienergy.Eng.Sun.COM (Jim Vienneau  - Sun Microsystems)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Compressors & Air Tools
Date: 29 Jul 92 13:37:08 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Mt. View, Ca.
NNTP-Posting-Host: hienergy.east.sun.com

In article <5630162@hplsla.hp.com> genet@hplsla.hp.com (Gene Taylor) writes:
 Who wants to wait for the tank to fill everytime? ...
>>What a waste of energy...
>
>Because water condenses inside, rusts through, and KBLOOIE!!! it blows up!
>This happened to my father-in-law with a 25-gal unit.  He heard it let go
>in the shop from inside the house 100 yards away.  He's REAL lucky he
>wasn't in the shop when it happened.  How lucky are you feeling?...

I don't see what the tank being under pressure has to do with condensation.
Won't the water condense the same either way? Most of the water in my tank
seems to come from compressing the air, not just letting it sit there.
I drain my tank a couple times a month and only get a few drops. Guess
I feel pretty lucky!



--
Jim Vienneau, Sun Microsystems Inc - Billerica, MA
Email: jvienneau@east.sun.com   Amateur Radio: WB1B
Good old Ma Bell (well old anyway): (508)671-0372
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: gheim@eng.auburn.edu (Greg Heim)
Subject: Re: Burned out starter or solenoid?
Organization: Alabama Department of Tourism (NOT!)
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 02:05:54 GMT

In article <1992Jul23.234808.15894@midway.uchicago.edu> valdes@geosun.uchicago.edu (John Valdes) writes:
>Hello all,
>
  [ .. is it the starter or solenoid stuff deleted ..]
>
>John Valdes
>valdes@geosun.uchicago.edu

A trick I use is to get some jumper cables and jump direcly from the
positive terminal on the battery to the post on the starter that
normally attaches to the solenoid.  I.e., what your doing is bypassing
the solenoid.  If your solenoid is connected to the starter, its still
the same concept.  If the starter spins (note: it won't engange without
the solenoid) then you know the problem is in the solenoid.

Hope this helps,

Greg



Ask to see my resume! | Graduating in August.  Looking for job in Atlanta area.
                      | 3+ Years _real_ experience in... UNIX administration,
Greg Heim             | Relational database design, PC Hardware/Software Support
gheim@eng.auburn.edu  | Shell programming. Resourceful problem solver. Hire me!
From: leonglaw@hpsgm2.sgp.hp.com (Lawrence Leong)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 09:58:24 GMT
Subject: Re: Carbon Buildup in engines ( valves ? ).....
Organization: HP Singapore
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

In rec.autos.tech, eap@leland.Stanford.EDU (Eric Perozziello) writes:

[stuff deleted]

|
|Anyway, to answer the original poster's question about how to get rid of
|it, yes, a long HARD drive is good. If that doesn't work, I have a method
|I've used for years, and it works: Take about 1 qt of water and slowly
|dribble it into the intake airstream of the hot, running engine. it 
|may take 15 minutes to use all the water- set the idle fast if you desire.
|You can try this over and over. Try running the engine hard between 
|doses (up hills at full throttle). The next best thing is 1). install
|a water injection system, or 2). disassmeble and clean!
|
|-Eric

I haven't heard of this trick before.  What's the principle behind it?  Is the
water supposed to turn to superheated steam and somehow remove the carbon?

What will happen if you let in too much water too fast?

Can you remove the filter and dribble the water in?

How about twin carbs?


curious...
lawrence