HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: perley@trub.crd.ge.com (Donald P Perley)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Gas piping question
Date: 5 Oct 92 21:36:36 GMT
	<1992Oct2.220956.6811@porthos.cc.bellcore.com>
Organization: GE Corp. R & D, Schenectady, NY 12345

In article <1992Oct2.220956.6811@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie) writes:


+ The appliance supply line must be at least 1/2" pipe. In some cases,
+ copper tubing is allowed (I've only seen this used for heaters). If you
+ use copper, all fittings must be compression fittings - *no* solder joints.

I have only done (and had done for me) propane.  Flexible copper tube
seems common for that (along with threaded pipe).  Part suppliers and my
propane supplier recommended against compression fittings, but no one
was sure enough to say why, or if they were against code.  Flare
fittings were the joint of choice, maybe just because they cost more
and you need a special tool. (same reason that cast iron drain pipe is better
:-)




+
+   1. All piping and fittings must be "black"; no galvanized stuff allowed.

I don't know about this.  I think black is usually used because it is cheaper.
I DO know that when my mother converted to gas the "boilerplate" (:-) in
the contractor's bid (which was reviewed by the gas company) specified
galvanized for any outdoor pipe and "black or galvanized" for indoor 
pipe.


+   2. All pipe joints must be sealed with thread compound.

There is teflon tape now made specifically for gas.  I don't know what
the problem was with regular teflon.. maybe shreds getting stuck
in your orifices.


+   8. Test every new joint by applying soapy water. Kid's bubble compound works
+      well for this. Fix any leaks.

I had a leak on my propane that didn't show up for a few minutes after
squirting, so don't just squirt it, say ok, and not check back.


-don perley
--
perley@trub.crd.ge.com
From: alanj@endeavor18.tek.com (Alan Jeddeloh)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Electric Drill Recommendation
Date: 2 Oct 92 16:03:13 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Tektronix, Inc.

In article <1992Oct1.132917.6887@mcc.com> breland@mcc.com (Mark Breland) writes:
>In article <1992Oct1.005135.5910@Armstrong.EDU> frazier@Armstrong.EDU (Doug Frazier) writes:
>>I want to buy a really good, durable 3/8" VSR drill for general homeowner
>>use.  Can anyone recommend models and good mail-order sources?  Many thanks.
>
>Don't mess around...any model Craftsman from Sears.  Take your pick on the
>features you want.  If it breaks, you get a new one.  Mine has survived many
>holes into the concrete foundation to set anchor bolts with no problem.

(1) Sears power tools are crap.  Some of my experiences:
	(a) 10" radial arm saw - burned out motor doing light duty cutting
	(b) leaf blower - burned up (literally) its grossly under-rated
	    trigger switch.  Junked it.
	(c) 5" grinder - motor died (starter) - took two trips to repair
	    depot to get fixed.
	(d) 3/8 VSR drill - 4 trigger switches in as many years.  
	(e) shop vac - developed "flying short" in motor windings.  Still
	    runs, but generates lots of ozone in the process

(2) Sears replacement warrentee does not extend to power tools.  See #1 for
    why.

Try Milwalkee, Skill, Makita, or Ryobi (or *possibly* B&D "Professional") if
you want a tool that will last.

--
    Alan Jeddeloh      W:(503) 685-2991  H:(503) 292-9740
    Tektronix, Inc.  D/S 60-850; PO Box 1000; Wilsonville, OR 97070
    Alan.Jeddeloh@tek.com          Let sleeping dogs^H^H^H^Hbabies lie
    You can put the children to bed, but you can't make them sleep!
Xref: sparky misc.consumers.house:13157 misc.rural:2181
From: rrw@elden.cse.nau.edu (Bob Wier)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,misc.rural
Subject: Propane regulator failure?
Date: 6 Oct 92 06:20:05 GMT
Followup-To: misc.consumers.house
Distribution: usa
Organization: Northern Arizona University, Flagstaff AZ
Originator: rrw@elden.cse.nau.edu

Just recently at a mountain cabin which a partner and I own, we
experienced a strange propane problem.  There were 4 people
taking showers (sequentially - they aren't *that* good friends
:-).  Two of them had finished and the third was starting. The water
heater fired up, and the burners on the stove went out (this was
during breakfast).  It APPEARS that the regulator failed. The 
generator, which has it's own regulator and takes its gas from the
high pressure side of the pipe (ie, between the tank and the house
regulator) worked fine, so it doesn't appear to be a low tank
pressure (had about 75 gallons remaining according to the gauge).

Having never experience something like this before, can anyone say
how rare it might be?  We talked with several people and most felt it
was either a regulator failure in the diaphram or something blocked
the orifice inside the regulator.  

Incidentally, along these same lines, does anyone know how regulators
are sized?  What would be appropriate for a house with propane appliances
(h2o heater, stove, refrigerator) and lighting (via Humphrey mantle units).
Since it's used seasonally, there is not a propane furnace.  The regulator
is marked "450L", which I assume is some type of capacity unit.

Second incidentally, I've run across a specification for an appliance burner
which says the pressure should be 11" W.G.  I'm thinking that this is 
stated in terms of "inches of water" (I've seen it elsewhere).  I'm not
familiar with this type of unit - does it imply since 14 psi (std atmos
pressure) will support a water column of about 30', is a 12" W.G. equivalent
to 1/30*14? That seems like an awfully small pressure to get gas thru a
pipe to an appliance burner (?).  

THANKS

 - Bob Wier

  ---------- insert favorite standard disclaimers here ----------
                   College of Engineering
      Northern Arizona University, Flagstaff Arizona
  Internet: rrw@naucse.cse.nau.edu | BITNET: WIER@NAUVAX | WB5KXH
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: avinash@intransit.tcs.com (Avinash Agrawal)
Subject: Questions on Garage Door Openers 
Organization: Teknekron Communications Systems Inc.
Distribution: us
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 17:37:03 GMT

I need to replace my automatic garage door opener.  I have been
getting conflicting information about them from different
sources.  I wonder if anyone anyone can tell me what their
experience has been.

1.  I have seen two types in local stores - chain drive and screw
drive.  Consumer reports says they are both about equal in
durability.  The local stores say that screw drive is less noisy.
Is this correct ?

2.  For a 2-car garage, the local store says you need a 1/2 hp
motor.  The professional installers say that if you buy a
do-it-yourself unit, you need a 1/2 hp.  However, if you get a
professional type you need only a 1/3 hp.

3.  The local stores sell do-it-yourself units.  For Genie screw
drive units, the professional installers say that the DIY units
do not last as long since the long screw drive is shipped in
three pieces which must be assembled.  Apparently the connections
break in a few years, while the single screw drive has no such
weak point.  Are they correct, or, just trying to get more
business ?

I would install it myelf, except that the door springs need a
little adjustment.  Professional installers I talked to will
adjust the springs if needed, during installation.  Getting just
the springs adjusted is more than half the cost of getting a new
opener installed, so I am considering getting them to install the
whole opener.

Finally, for people in the San Jose area, is there any 
professional installer that someone can recommend.

Thanks.
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Electric Drill Recommendation
Date: 6 Oct 92 19:41:07 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ

In article <5625@naucse.cse.nau.edu> rrw@elden (Robert Wier) writes:

>  Fortune magazine a few months ago had an article on DeWalt.  Turns out that
>  Black & Decker perceived that they had a problem with people pegging their
>  tools as being for the "hobbyist" rather than the "professional", which
>  was hurting sales.  I *believe* (I'm quoting from memory now) that B&D
>  bought the DeWalt name in order to introduce their upscale tool line.

Close, but no cigar. Black & Decker has owned Dewalt since at least the
50s, but until recently it was slanted almost entirely towards the
professional. Well, the pros are turning more and more to a "buy 'em
cheap, wear 'em out, and throw 'em away" philosophy, so Dewalt sales aren't
the best in the world. What B&D did was to kill two birds with one stone.
They reduced the quality of the Dewalt line to simply a very good tool
(the old ones would outlive you) to get the price down for the pros, and
they put it on the amateur market to take advantage of its reputation.

The new ones are the same design as the "Professional" series they had
out a few years ago.

I had the pleasure of working in one shop that had a 220 volt Dewalt radial
arm saw. Unbelievable tool - all black cast iron and must have weighed
500 pounds. One of the guys tried to rip a 2x4 with the thing turned
around backwards, and it put the 2x4 clean through a corrugated iron wall.
My laborer was on the other side of the wall, and he was livid!

patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | "Zero Defects": The result of shutting down a
                    |    production line.
                    |         Kelvin Throop - The Management Dictionary
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: langston@langston.cs.utk.edu (Mike Langston)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: siding options?
Date: 30 Sep 92 01:00:17 GMT
Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of Tennessee
Distribution: world
Reply-To: langston@langston.cs.utk.edu (Mike Langston)
NNTP-Posting-Host: langston.cs.utk.edu

george patterson continues:

> You still don't understand. The manufacturer and installer have nothing
> to do with it.

but george, you just explained that color match, wind, etc can 
cause problems -- color problems are *purported* to depend to a 
great extent on the manufacturer -- a friend down the road had 
wind problems with his siding that were *directly* attributable 
to the installer

seems to me that there are times when (high quality, properly 
installed) vinyl makes good sense, despite its limitations

(no, i don't work for the siding industry, and yes, i prefer
brick for most applications)

-- 
mike langston <langston@cs.utk.edu>
department of computer science, university of tennessee
From: esr@unixhub.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Edwin S. Russell)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Square-D electrical panel
Date: 6 Oct 92 21:34:11 GMT
Article-I.D.: unixhub.BvpyKz.DGC
Organization: Stanford Linear Accelerator Center

In article <1992Oct2.152040.29100@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> patter@dasher.uucp  
(24224-guthrie) writes:
> In my opinion, it's not worth it. I've never known anyone to have problems
> with an aluminum service cable; in fact, I've never known anyone to use
> anything else in new services.
> 
> That being the case, I wouldn't hesitate to use it for a stove line in
> my own home.

Our home (25 years old) was built with aluminum wire from the meter to the  
main panel and from the panel to range, oven, and dryer.  A couple of years  
ago I investigated why our lights dimmed when any load started (such as  
refrigerator motor).  All connections, including to breakers, were ok and  
tight in the panel and no obvious problems.  However, the main breaker next  
to the meter was a different story.  The connections had obviously been very  
hot frequently, the insulation was burned off one of the aluminum wires, and  
the bakelite (or whatever they use) on one side of the breaker was almost  
burned away.  I don't know how the breaker held or why it didn't start a  
fire.  In short, it was the typical kind of thing you used to hear about  
aluminum wires.

I replaced the main breakers (100 a., 220 v.) and replaced that aluminum crap  
with copper.  (I recently did the same with the oven and range wires when I  
had to reroute the conduit a few inches.)  Nobody else in the neighborhood  
seemed to have any similar problems but I sure wouldn't guarantee that there  
might not be some in the future.  I would not recommend that anybody use  
aluminum anywhere.

As far as brand of panels, I would get a name brand that is readily available  
locally.  If you have to add circuits or breakers in a few years, what will  
the local stores/supply houses have in stock?  Our house has GE.  No problems  
finding breakers yet.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: sturges@master.lds-az.loral.com (Jim Sturges)
Subject: Re: Pool Maintenance
Followup-To: misc.consumers.house
Organization: Loral Defense Systems - Arizona
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 15:22:29 GMT

In article <8052@public.BTR.COM>, timlee@public.btr.com wrote:
> 
> How much time and money does a backyard pool cost to maintain?
> Please e-mail.  Thanks.

Posting despite request for email..... 

How big is the pool? Area and volume?
Is it above or below ground?
Is is vinyl, plaster, fiberglass, or pebble-tek?
Is it an existing pool? If so, what sort of vacuum system does it have?
Where is the pool?
What is the person-hour integral of use?
Does it rain, blow dust, snow, or otherwise weather on the pool?
How much money are you willing to spend to minimize maintenance?

Also following up via e-mail....
*************************************************************************

Yesterday I was a dog.  Today I'm a dog.  Tomorrow I'll probably still
be a dog. Sigh!  There's so little hope for advancement.
                -- Snoopy

 ************************************************************************

Jim Sturges                             MS 8612
602 925-7204                            Loral Defense Systems -- Arizona
602 925-6988 Fax                        P.O. Box 85
sturges@master.lds-az.loral.com         1300 S. Litchfield Rd.
CIS: 72470,3117                         Goodyear-Avondale, AZ  85338
From: steed@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Gary Steed)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: IN-LINE WATER HEATERS..Are they Crap?
Date: 30 Sep 92 05:47:34 GMT
Organization: Corporate Computing & Services

goddard+@cs.cmu.edu (Nigel Goddard) writes;

>One should also consider loss in the delivery pipes.  Every morning
>when I get up, first thing I do is turn on the hot water in the sink.
>About three minutes later, when the water coming out the tap is finally
>hot, I turn on the shower.

This is one reason that I was considering an on-demand water heater
in the new bathroom of our remodel project. The bathroom is on the 
opposite end of the house, and it takes a while for the hot water to
get to the 'old' bathroom in the middle of the house. 

It was suggested by a few contractors that we might consider a re-
circulator instead. It would, as I understand, return the cold water back
to the water heater until it sensed hot water and then pass it through.

Does any one have experience with these units, and a better explanation
of how it works? 

Thanks

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Gary Steed    				Hewlett-Packard Co.  
                                        CC&S Network Engineering
Unix:   steed@hpcc26.corp.hp.com        Palo Alto, CA. 
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: GA.MCL@forsythe.stanford.edu (Mark C. Lawrence)
Subject: Re: Help, cant remove faucets.
Organization: Stanford University, California, USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 00:54:53 GMT

In article <joel.718292952@hibp2.ecse.rpi.edu>,
joel@ecse.rpi.edu (Joel Glickman) writes:
>I am trying to replace the washers on a worn-out tub faucet. I remove the
>center screw holding the faucet handle to the post, but the facuet handle
>will not come off...

You need a "faucet handle puller".  Check any large plumbing or
hardware store.  Works the same as a gear puller:  has two arms that
grip the back of the faucet, and a screw in the middle that pushes on
the end of the post thru the hole in the handle.

Mark C. Lawrence
Systems Programmer
Stanford Data Center
Stanford, CA 94305-4136
(415) 723-4976
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: fireplace doors
Date: 5 Oct 92 22:27:31 GMT
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ

In article <7319@bigbird.hri.com.hri.com> rudolph@sparc20.hri.com (David Rudolph) writes:

>Can anyone say from experience what will be the difference over time
>between buying a set of solid brass fireplace doors (generally 
>> $400 at fireplace stores) and a set of brass plated doors, which
>go for under $150 at discount department stores. Is the difference
>really enough to make it worth paying 3-4 times the price?

This isn't direct experience, but for what it's worth -

My experience with brass plated lamps is that the plating begins to show
wear in about three years. I also have a marine aquarium in my living room,
and the only brass plated lamp I have there rapidly developed rusty brown
spots (some quite large), apparently from drops of salt water. Solid brass,
of course, would tarnish in the same situation.

New Jersey is frequently humid, though - part of the reason for its "Garden
State" nickname, so your mileage may vary.

patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | Basic research is what I'm doing when I don't
                    | know what I'm doing.
                    |                            Werner Von Braun
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: hamm@austoto.sps.mot.com (Steve Hamm)
Subject: Mold in AC -- Help!
Reply-To: hamm@ssdt-bluestein.sps.mot.com (Steve Hamm)
Organization: Motorola SPS, Austin, TX
Distribution: usa
Date: 30 Sep 92 07:47:34


We had a strong mold smell in the house that we couldn't locate, so
last evening I pulled the panels off the AC unit in the attic and
looked around.  Lots of mold.  Moldy wires to the blower motor, what
looks like mold on the vanes of the fan, even mold on the fiberglass
blanket lining the unit.  Also a fair amount of corrosion on welds and 
unpainted, ungalvanized steel.

Is this normal? Any suggestions on how to clean up this mess and
prevent future occurrences?  (Pull the squirrel cage and spritz it
with bleach?  Vacuum the unit?) Any idea on how it got this way in the
first place?

One possible contributing factor:  We've been using an "allergy" filter
--one of those non-powered "electrostatic" things-- and it seemed to
have decreased air flow through the system as compared to the old
fiberglass filter.  I've now switched back to the fiberglass filter.
Any ideas as to whether the allergy filter is contributing to the mold?
(Ironic if true).

Any info that might bear on the situation would be appreciated.

--Steve
--
Steve Hamm ------  Motorola Inc. Semiconductor Systems Design Technology
                   3501 Ed Bluestein Blvd., MD-M2, Austin TX 78762
Ph:  512-928-6612  Internet:  hamm@ssdt-bluestein.sps.mot.com   
Fax: 512-928-7662  UUCP:      ...cs.utexas.edu!oakhill!austoto!hamm
From: wade@hobbes.ucsd.edu (Wade Blomgren)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Building near property line
Date: 7 Oct 92 00:12:41 GMT
Distribution: usa


Typically (or 'in your area', or under whatever criteria you care to
lay out), how close can one build structures such as car ports and
hot-tub (jacuzzi) gazebos to a property line?  I ask because our next
door neighbor (in a suburban tract home area with lots of about 6K sq ft),
having built a hot tub deck right up against the property line aligned
with our bedroom window, is now installing a car port, consuming more of
the frontier between the (small) lots.

Can he do this?  Must I complain now or forever hold my peace (as with
an easement)?  I mean, what if (not likely, but as an example) I wanted
to put in a pool, but the equipment needed could no longer fit between
my house and his added structures?  

Comments and pointers to the appropriate documentation solicited,

Thanks,

Wade Blomgren
wade@hobbes.ucsd.edu


Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: tln@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (teresa.l.green)
Subject: More Questions about Loose Laid Vinyl Flooring
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 16:05:55 GMT

Hello -
	Thanks for the responses about Mannington Gold loose laid
vinyl.  I have few more specific questions:

	How much time do I have before the stuff shrinks too much?
	(12x12 area on a 70 degree day)

	What is the recommended adhesive and how wide of an adhesive
	strip do I put on the edges?

	Is regular 1/4" luan plywood the correct surface preparation for 
	this stuff?

	If I staple it also, what size and type of staples should I use?

	When do I cut out for drains, before or after the stuff shrinks?
	Should I glue/staple around cutouts?

					Thanks for your help!

					Teresa
					teresa@ihlpm.ATT.COM
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: clarke@acme.ucf.edu (Thomas Clarke)
Subject: Re: Attaching Stud Wall to Concrete
Organization: University of Central Florida
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 11:51:44 GMT

I have put up several sets of shelves, but no walls, by 
first drilling a small ( 3/16 inch) hole in the concrete,
(This goes fast if the bit is new/sharp) then driving cut
nails (the hard nails with rectangular cross section) through
a pre-drilled hole in the wood into the concrete.

Chief trouble is that cut nails vary in thickness.  One nail will
snug up nice and tight, the next will stand proud and the
third will be loose.  Advantage is it goes fairly fast, and is
cheap so you can use lots of fasteners.

--
Thomas Clarke
Institute for Simulation and Training, University of Central FL
12424 Research Parkway, Suite 300, Orlando, FL 32826
(407)658-5030, FAX: (407)658-5059, clarke@acme.ucf.edu
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas S. Rand)
Subject: Re: Gas piping question
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Distribution: usa
Date: 29 Sep 92 11:25:32

In article <12625@sail.LABS.TEK.COM> vallath@vishnu.foo.tek.com (Vallath Nandakumar ) writes:

   I want to install an extension of gas pipe to my new gas
   clothes dryer, and was wondering where I could get some
   do-it-yourself information on it.  A book or videotape would
   be great.  None of the DIY books I looked into had it.  Maybe
   it is not considered a DIY job?  It is just a few feet from
   the 1" gas pipe to my appliance.

IMO,  it's not a sensible DIY job.  Hire a plumber.  Remember that
screwing up gas can lead to your house exploding.  Screwing up
water is pretty benign as are most electrical mistakes.


--

----------------------------------------------------------------------
Douglas S. Rand <drand@osf.org>		OSF/Motif Dev.
Snail:         11 Cambridge Center,  Cambridge,  MA  02142
Disclaimer:    I don't know if OSF agrees with me... let's vote on it.
Amateur Radio: KC1KJ
----------------------------------------------------------------------