HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: mdtaylor@wc.novell.com (Mark D. Taylor)
Subject: KILLER BIVITTATUS
Organization: Novell, Inc.  Walnut Creek, CA
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 14:39:51 GMT

>From Reuters, in Tuesday's SF Chronicle:

------------------------ [begin article] ------------------------

       Python's Hug Takes Owner's Breath Away -- For Good

TORONTO
  A Canadian who was killed by his pet python might have lived
if someone else had helped him handle it, a reptile expert said
yesterday.
  Police found the body of Mark Nevilles, 28, Saturday a few feet
from the cage of his 15-foot python, Yasser.
  Coroner David Evans said Nevilles, of Brampton, Ontario, died
of asphyxiation, squeezed by the snake.
  He said pythons do not crush their prey.  Instead, they stop
their breathing by twining around the rib cage and squeezing.
  And Robert Murphy, curator of herpetology at the Royal Ontario
Museum, said a second person could have removed the snake from
around Nevilles with ease.  With no one else around, he would
have been helpless once his arms were trapped.
  Murphy said Burmese pythons, considered the most docile of
constrictor snakes, can become agressive and unpredictable when
they grow beyond 10 feet.
  "The safest way to deal with a snake that big is not to deal
with one at all.  If you do have a snake that big, don't play
with it alone.  If you have to do a cage cleaning, make sure you
have someone with you to help if the snake starts to constrict,"
he said.
  Nevilles owned three pythons.  Yasser was taken to Metro Toronto
Zoo along with 12-foot Mortimer and six-foot Margaret until author-
ities decide on their fate.


------------------------- [end article] -------------------------

A big hand to Reuters for a reasonable and responsible report.

I see lots of talk about bites, but how does one get squeezed?
I'm certain that nobody reading this group has ever personally
been killed by their python, but does this sort of thing ever
cross one's mind while cleaning?  Do you guys use spotters?

mdt
mdtaylor@wc.novell.com
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: datri@convex.com (Anthony A. Datri)
Subject: Re: What do you feed a leopard frog---QUICK!
Organization: Engineering, CONVEX Computer Corp., Richardson, Tx., USA
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 22:21:29 GMT
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by a user at CONVEX Computer
              Corp. The opinions expressed are those of the user and
              not necessarily those of CONVEX.

>that may be helpful.  Water wise, I'd set him up in a terrarium (as opposed
>to an aquarium).

Which means what?
-- 


======================================================8--<
From: v105mahs@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (Peter P. Donohue)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Lucky herp owners
Summary: Majority of Herps illegal in Hawaii!
Date: 13 Apr 92 16:20:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <1992Apr11.003552.6424@news.Hawaii.Edu>, ginas@uhunix.uhcc.Hawaii.Edu (Gina Sakata) writes...
>I have been reading this group for several months now.  It must be so nice
>to just go to the pet store to see/purchase your favorite herp.  Here we
>have to go to the zoo!
> 
>Only turtles are legal here (certain species). 

    Laws limiting what people can or can't have as pets seem very common.
They seem to fall under two different categories - those protecting the 
environment and those protecting us from ourselves.
    In areas where some imported animals have taken over, the laws seem 
to be stricter (Hawaii and New Zealand come to mind - both of which have
very strict herp laws).  Basically, they are trying to protect the 
environment from a new species entering and ruining it.  This isn't just
a herp related problem - there are plenty of packs of wild dogs running
around all over the world.  Another example is the Zebra Muscle.  This
little shell fish has taken over Lake Erie and Ontario, causing damage
to water pipes (by clogging them) and possibly endangering all other life
in the lakes due to its ability to siphon off lots of plankton.  How long
has it taken to take over these two Great Lakes?  Scientists believe the
first ones came over from Europe in the bilge of a ship in 1984 - only 6
years ago!
    The second set of rules is to protect ourselves from our animals.  One
rule that I love is that some cities or states have rules saying that you 
can't keep constrictors as pets.  I would understand it (but still not agree)
if the rule had been written saying that no constricters over 10', but as
it is my corn snakes would be illegal.  How any one of these guys would 
endanger anyone, I don't know.
    There definitely has been problems with animals and what they can do, but
I think most lawmakers have gone overboard.  For this reason, I am a strong 
supporter of the American Federation of Herpetoculturists.  One of their
goals is to keep uneccessary rules against herps from becoming law.

						Pete

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Peter P. Donohue - University at Buffalo, Graduate School of Management
bitnet:   V105MAHS@UBVMS                . I've stopped looking for a job...
internet: V105MAHS@UBVMS.CC.BUFFALO.EDU .    I'm now begging for one!!!
From: tracer@U.WASHINGTON.EDU (David Tracer)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Heating pads
Date: 7 Apr 92 23:34:56 GMT

I use heating pads under most of my snake cages.  These are standard
Drug-store type pads with 3 settings (LOW, MED, HI).  For most cages, I
leave the setting on LOW, except for my Kenyan Sand Boas who get a MED
setting.  In all cases, the heating pad is under not more than 1/2 of the
lower surface of the cage.  That way, it is hottest directly above the pad
and a gradient is created out to the far side of the cage.  Out there,
substrate surface temperature is approximately equal to room temperature. 
Using this method, I don't see how the snake (or other herp) could get
burned.  Even if the pad shorted & got really hot, the animal could always
move to the non-heated side of the cage.
Anyway, I've never had a problem with any pads shorting, nor have any of
my animals ever been burned.  IMHO, heating pads are infinitely better
than "hot rocks," and as many others have posted, electrical devices do
not belong inside a herp cage.
Just my  .02,
David
From: pholland@iastate.edu (Paul J Hollander)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Guest post
Date: 10 Apr 92 17:37:55 GMT
Article-I.D.: news.1992Apr10.173755.3862
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames, IA

In article <251@angel.UUCP> larry@angel.UUCP (Larry Tenbush) writes:
> (Deleted)
>
>As for the mites:  You might want to get a "No-Pest" strip from the store
>put a piece in each cage and leave it there for at least 24 hours.  After 
>about 1 week repeat this to kill any hatching eggs.  Then do this again.
>and one more time just to make sure (better safe than sorry).  After all
>of this you can then bleach out the cages.  To kill the effects of the 
>bleach use vinegar after the bleach.  I've done this bleach and vinegar
>trick on expensive tropical fish tanks and it works.  

If you go this route, use the vinegar in a well-ventilated place.  Acid 
liberates chlorine gas from sodium hypochlorite bleaches, and chlorine is 
toxic.

Paul Hollander    pholland@iastate.edu
Behold the tortoise: he makes no progress unless he sticks his neck out.
From: dl2y+@andrew.cmu.edu (Donna Marie Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: new garder snake
Date: 17 Apr 92 02:41:36 GMT
	<1992Apr15.223316.16521@odin.corp.sgi.com>
Organization: Senior, English, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA

<I think garters are better than ribbon snakes.  From what <I've seen in
pet stores and heard, ribbons are just really wild <and never calm down.
 My garters are pretty calm and I <can hold the texas one a lot, though
he won't stay in one <place and won't let me 'wear' him. 
              Strange. I have a small Eastern ribbon snake, named
Slither,  who is quite "tame" and I "wear"him as a bracelet at times. I
have to keep a eye on him, to make sure he doesn't crawl up my arm and
into my hair, but otherwise he's sweet as can be. 
          Donna Marie Lewis
From: v151luy2@ubvmsd.cc.buffalo.edu (V151LUY2.SIGNATURE)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: New King Snake.
Keywords: Hello:
Date: 16 Apr 92 16:42:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41


	I am going to be the owner of a King Snake sometime
next week. I was wondering if there are other KingSnake 
owners out there who would like to share soem advice 
about this little (not) critter. 
	The previous owner assures me that he is 1) tame and 
loves to cuddle with warm humans, 2) eats microwaved 
frozen mouse-icles, 3) is not messy 4) has a few years 
left in him. 
	Apparently he (the snake) is about 5 years old. 
What is the average lifespan of these guys. 
	I have never *owned* a snake before, however I am
very familiar with them having caught many in college
including rattlers down south (helping a prof. in 
college with his measurements) and therefore am not
completely naive.
	Thanks in advance...

						Scott
From: gerard@progress.COM (Gerard Bras)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: a few questions
Date: 6 Apr 92 15:05:28 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Progress Software Corp.

rwong@beach.csulb.edu (Robie Wong) writes:


.... del

>I've got two reptiles, a ball python and a Southern alligator lizard.  My
>python absolutely refuses to eat.  He has just gotten over a battle with mites
>and tics, and is clean, but he still won't eat.  

Ball pythons are like that, at least most of them are.  There are one or
two people who have P.regius feeding reliably but they are unsual.  The
best advice I can give is to try different food.  Small birds and gerbils
are often taken cheerfully by herps who turn up their noses at mice and rats.
Also, make sure the temperature and humidity are up there.  These animals
also tend to be seasonal feeders so maybe he'll come around soon on his 
own.

>The vet I took him to suggests
>force feeding him, but I read that that should be a last resort.  Any
>suggestions?  He isn't bone thin, but he's not big either.

Force feeding is real easy to do.  I would try some alternatives first.  Weigh
the snake now.  If he starts losing weight, then force feed if he hasn't eaten
yet.  The easiest way to do it is with a feeding catheter (amazing, huh?),
a syringe, and WATER-BASED LUBE.  Do not use petroleum jelly lube like Vaseline.
My favorite feed for this purpose is Gerber's strained turkey.

>The lizard was given to me by a guy who received it from a friend.  The lizard
>is the most unfriendly creature I have ever taken care of.  He bites, hisses,
>and all but lunges at you when you reach in to pick him up.  Are there any ways
>to tame him?  

In my limited experience, lizards tend to be nasty more often than not.  You may
be able to gentle him down but I doubt he'll ever be freindly.  Just handle
him gently.  Do it once a day.  You may get lucky, otherwise you'll just have
to learn to enjoy him the way he is.

.... del


cheers,
-gb-
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: mdtaylor@wc.novell.com (Mark D. Taylor)
Subject: reinhardtii (was Re: Lucky herp)
Organization: Novell, Inc.  Walnut Creek, CA
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 19:57:59 GMT

In article <1992Apr13.175657.26871@news.eng.convex.com>, datri@convex.com (Anthony A. Datri) writes:
> 
> There's a national chain of pet jails in a mall near me that has what they're
> calling a Burmese for sale.  Another local place has a Calabar ground python,
> but they just call it a "Rubber Snake" and list the proper name (Calibari
> rheinharti ?) to avoid hassles.
> 

Ross lists _Calabaria_reinhardtii_ as "African burrowing python".  As of
1990, no successful captive breedings had been recorded.  Dark grey/black
with orange/light brown speckles, no apparent neck.

Is this the same animal by another name?

mdt
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: tjr3@quads.uchicago.edu (thomas john ryan)
Subject: Book review and brag
Reply-To: tjr3@midway.uchicago.edu
Organization: University of Chicago Computing Organizations
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 02:22:36 GMT

Greetings!
First, a little bit of news:  The new AFH book on Savannah monitors 
came out and looks to be excellent.  They go over almost all "pet" 
quality monitors along with suggestions for keeping them.  And, of 
course, they go over, in considerable detail, the keeping of 
savannah monitors.  This book is one of the series commonly 
posted as the DeVosjoli books, although this is by a different 
author.  The book is well written and clear in almost all aspects.  My 
only complaint is that the book does not suggest maximum feedings 
for baby savannah monitors.  As most know, with iguanas, one can 
just leave food in the cage and the igs will eat until full.  This leads 
to a well fed ig, especially in juveniles.  With a hatchling savannah, 
you cannot just throw 10 crickets in the cage and expect him to eat 
his fill in an hour.  Besides, it has been said that crickets can be 
dangerous to hatchling lizards.  This leads me to my second 
announcement:
I am now the proud owner of a hatchling savannah monitor!  
He/She is about 6 inches total length, estimated 3.5 STV.  So far, 
no problems.  I am going to a vet for a check-up at the end of this 
week, sooner if a problem arises.  For now, it is eating 4-6 3/4 inch 
crickets per day with a Rep-Cal and Reptivite combination.  For 
now, there is a rock, shelter and water bowl in a 10 gallon tank.  
There is a heating pad under one side of the tank and a 67W 
incandescent bulb overhead.  There is a bigger tank waiting, but he 
is so dwarfed by the 10 gallon that I figured that I would start him 
there.  He is still rather timid, ducking under his log whenever I walk 
into the room, but he is slowly getting better.  I want to start him on 
mouse pinkies asap since my SO really, REALLY dislikes insects.  
Plus, it is a little easier to inject vitamins, dewormer, medicine, etc. 
into a pinkie than a cricket.  I do, however, have a couple of 
questions:
	1.  Am I feeding enough?
	2.  How long should I wait before pinkies?
	3.  He is so small, how long should I wait before setting up a 
		handling schedule?
	4.  Anything else I should know?
I have not yet got a vitalite for him, though I intend to do so, but I 
am a bit confused:
Lizards need UV to synthesize vitamin D3 for the absorbtion of Ca, 
right?  Snakes, I will assume, do not need exposure to UV because 
their diet is complete with D3 in the mouse, rat, or whatever, right?  
My question is:  Can you suppliment to lizards diet with D3 and not 
have to worry about UV?  I know that I am leaving out a bunch of 
things, but this should summarize my quandary.  Thanks for 
listening and for any replies!
						Tom
:w

Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: kyle@Csli.Stanford.EDU (Kyle Wohlmut)
Subject: Re: Leopard Frog Chow!
Followup-To: rec.pets.herp
Summary: Getting into heavy topics
Keywords: amphibians
Organization: Stanford University CSLI
Distribution: inner planets
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1992 21:44:46 GMT

In article <1992Apr16.195514.7714@igor.tamri.com> donb@igor.tamri.com
(Don "Is that a python in your pants" Baldwin) writes:
>In article <703378432.19865@zooid.guild.org> adam@zooid.guild.org
>(Adam "Frog Rights Now" Salter) writes:

   [...stuff deleted...]

>>  I am not trying to control what you do, just encouraging you not
>>to control the frogs life.
>
>Isn't that what we're doing when we keep any herps as pets?
>
>   don

	This is getting into sticky ground, isn't it... looking at the
crashing amphibian populations worldwide, the question is whether to
try to leave them alone and hope they make it on their own, or try to
snap up specimens to keep the species alive for better days ahead.  If
you look at that as controlling their lives, well, fine. (But I don't
think that's really the way Don looks at it.) At least part of my
motivation for keeping exotic snakes is with the long-term goal of
breeding them, to propogate a species that's vanishing in the wild.
Evidence has shown (don't have the references right here, but can post
them later) that the amphibian situation is even more precarious; I'm
not sure which is the best way to remedy the situation.

Just my two khopeks worth...

-/-/-/-/-/-/
Kyle
'Commander Riker, tell me about your sex organs.' --Actual line from
STNG
/-/-/-/-/-/-
From: v105mahs@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (Peter P. Donohue)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Info on SNOW BOA
Date: 9 Apr 92 21:18:00 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <1992Apr8.201717.28004@eagle.lerc.nasa.gov>, nnbarn@buzzard.lerc.nasa.gov (Paullette Hunsdorf) writes...
>	While attending a HERP show a couple of weeks ago I saw a sign at a 
>breeders booth regarding : new in 92 SNOW BOAS. he had a picture of a pure 
>white boa that was really beautiful. absolutly no color just pure white, 
>unlike an albino.
   My guess is that it is an albino that they've bred all the color and 
pattern out of.  I know that they've been working on 'blizzard' corns, which
are just snow corns that have had the pattern bred out.

>	If anyone has info on these boas please post here. I would like to 
know about availability, and cost. 		
   I haven't actually heard about snow boas before.  I do know that albino
boas are still rare and command a lot of money.  I haven't seen them on 
lists yet (yup, they are rare), so I'm sure they will be a few thousand
dollars each.

>	P.S. This is not something you fill with gas and clean your sidewalk 
>off with. 	
   Living in Buffalo, I could use something like that.  Even though it is
officially spring here, it still feels like winter.

						Pete

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Peter P. Donohue - University at Buffalo, Graduate School of Management
bitnet:   V105MAHS@UBVMS                . One of the mass of graduating
internet: V105MAHS@UBVMS.CC.BUFFALO.EDU .  students begging for a job...
From: mwaldvog@ent1.ent.ncsu.edu (Michael Waldvogel)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Cage Cleaning
Date: 9 Apr 92 11:46:50 GMT
Organization: Dept. of Entomology - NCSU, Raleigh, NC
Originator: mwaldvog@ent1.ent.ncsu.edu

In <1992Apr7.193721.23397@serval.net.wsu.edu>, jeffp@ocelot.csc.wsu.edu 
(Jeff Parke)  wrote:


>I'd suggest water and soap and scrubbing followed by drying followed
>by fumigation with a flea bomb.  If you can find a garage or some small
>room that can be vented to the outside, you should be able to safely
>do this without exposing your whole house to the chemicals (although
>lots of people with flea problems routinely do so).

>I would air the cages for a couple of days outside after the fumigation.

If a flea bomb is used, I would strongly recommend cleaning the cage 
with bleach (as Paul Hollander suggested for general cleaning) to get
rid of any chemical residue.  Leaving the cage vacant for a few days
will also allow time for any surviving mite eggs which might (no pun 
intended) be in the cage to hatch.  I would not fumigate in too small of 
an area (read the directions on the can), because the fumes can become
too concentrated which can be hazardous also.  Although the bomb will 
work, I'm inclined to support the previous suggestions of using a flea 
collar inside the cage (which is then enclosed in plastic) or just
cleaning the cage with bleach.  If the flea collar is used, I would 
still clean the cage when your finished.


-- 
----------------------------------------------
| Michael Waldvogel  - waldvogel@ent.ncsu.edu |
| Dept. of Entomology, N.C. State University  |
| Raleigh, North Carolina  27695-7613         |
From: lxfogel@srv.PacBell.COM (Lee Fogel)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Parrot ladders (was Wood Perches)
Date: 14 Apr 92 20:38:49 GMT
Article-I.D.: PacBell.1992Apr14.203849.6526
Organization: Pacific * Bell


Although not as attractive as natural wood branches, I highly
recommend parrot ladders sold in most pet stores.  The wood is
kind of smooth and requires some notch carving.  They come in
various sizes, up to 5 feet long.  Once an Ig gets used to them,
they readily recognize the ladder as something the're supposed
to climb on.  This came in very handy when my Ig outgrew her
cage and was adapting to a room environment.  I was able to guide
her to the parts of the room I wanted her to go by placing ladders
in approprite places.  She relies on them to climb up and down
windowsills, tables etc.  I've moved a few times, and each time had
to reorient Nero to a new room environment.  She always sought out
and eagerly climbed the ladders to the designated areas.

Lee

-- 
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Lee Fogel/\/\/\/\/\Create/\Maintain/\Destroy/\/\/\/\/\lxfogel@srv.PacBell.Com
_____________________________________________________________________________
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: pholland@iastate.edu (Paul J Hollander)
Subject: Re: BURMESE OUTDOORS
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames, IA
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 17:34:14 GMT

In article <92102.145233SAF108@psuvm.psu.edu> <SAF108@psuvm.psu.edu> writes:
>I want to ask all you Burmese owners what you think about taking your
>pet outdoors when it is in the 80-90F temp. range during summer. I have
>a young 4 1/4 ft burmese and I live in P.A. I wondered if it is possible
>to let her go through the grass (under intense supervision of course) a
>bit or if this would expose her to parasites, infectious agents, etc.
>I was told somewhere along the line that direct exposure to sunlight is
>not good for prolonged periods of time. What's the thinking along these
>lines? Any opinions would be appreciated. Thanx STEVE

I don't see any particular problems for the snake if you do this.  IMHO, the
problem with sun is that the snake can get overheated.  That 80-90 F is 
air temperature, and I don't know how far off the ground it's taken.  Solution
- stay in the shade and maybe pick days in the 75-85 F range.

I'd be more worried about the general public coming around and freaking out
on sighting your pet.  Show some discretion in picking the site where you 
let the snake crawl around.

Paul Hollander    pholland@iastate.edu
Behold the tortoise: he makes no progress unless he sticks his neck out.
From: stevep@wrq.com (Steve Poole)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Green Iguana Toenail Trimming
Date: 13 Apr 92 18:44:41 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Walker Richer & Quinn

In article <16707@plains.NoDak.edu>, jeide@plains.NoDak.edu (Jared Eide) writes:
> 
> 	Hello again.  I am theproud owner of a happy little green iguan, who
> was given to me as a gift.  Norm (Like from Cheers) has just begun to get
> sharp little toenails.  According to books and to the petshops I should be 
> trimming his nails fairly often.  Unfortunately I am teriffied to do so.  They
> are so small, and I really don't feel like cutting him.  
> 
> 	So, should I be trimming them at all?  And if I should, are there any   hints in doing so?  Thanks for the time.

I don't see why you should bother.  Unless his nails are cutting your
flesh to ribbons when you handle him it doesn't seem like it's worth
hassling with, or taking the chance of snipping off too much.  I've
found that if the iguana roams around enough or has some rough
surfaces in his tank then they won't stay needle sharp.  There may be
a fine line between having surfaces that are rough enough to wear
down the nails and so rough that they cause foot abrasions, but Shep
does just fine with a few large, semi-smooth stones.

Anyhow, my feeling is that trimming nails is generally done for the
human's benefit, not the herp's.
  - Steve

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