HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: srogers@teenwolf.mcc.com.mcc (Steve Rogers)
Subject: Re: Woodworker's Book Club??
Reply-To: srogers@teenwolf.mcc.com.mcc
Organization: MCC, Austin, TX
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 17:41:06 GMT

jesse@mars.slu.edu writes:

>In article <1993Jan12.205305.2881@crd.ge.com>, meltsner@crd.ge.com (Kenneth J. Meltsner) writes:
> > As a confirmed book and catalog junkie, I'm intrigued by the
> > Woodworker's Book Club offer in the Jan/Feb 93 issue of Woodwork.

Its probably OK, if you want the books.  

> I am a member, I tried to return an order.  I wrote them a letter asking for
> a RMA and return postage (why not maybee they would pay for it).  I never got
> a response.  I still have the books.  It seems like there is no one at the
> bookclub that can reply to a letter.  Are all book clubs like this?

Mostly.  A couple of hints for dealing with book clubs:  Think of the book club as a
giant computer with a simple program.  You get good service so long as you don't do
anything unusual.  Keep the original box that your books come in, open it carefully
so you can reuse it, if necessary.  To return an unwanted book, just write "return
to sender" on the outside, scratch off your name, and drop it in the mail.  The
packages have the postal permit and state "return postage guaranteed".

> Also on my free book the cover was on backwords . . .  I didnt complain because
> it was free.

You should have.  Its not a gift, its part of your agreement.  In this
case you are left with not altertative but to attempt communication
with a real person  =:O !  Some clubs have a toll free number, most
have a regular number.  This is the easiest way to get a resolution.
For letters, the address to send communications is usually different
from the book and order address.  I've joined and un-joined at least 20
book clubs in the past 10 years, but I've never actually sent a letter
to one. Sometimes I resign and re-join after a few years if they come
up with a good offer.  One book club I'm in has a discount that
increases as you buy books; probably an incentive to cut down on the
joining and un-joining phenomena.  I know its caused me to retain my
membership.  

Another little known trick is that some book clubs have a membership
category in which they send you the little bulletins and cards,
but they DO NOT send anything unless you ask for it.  I've gotten
promoted to this 'gold club' by threatening to cancel my
membership after buying several books over a few year period.  Its
really convenient not to worry about sending those $(%#&# little
cards back every 5 weeks.  One *might* be able to get this service
by asking.

---
| Steven Rogers  MCC/ESL  3500 West Balcones Drive
| Austin, Texas 78759-6509  (512) 338-3691 srogers@mcc.com
From: jeff@banyan.com (Jeff Reagen)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Craftsman Contractors Saw
Date: 28 Jan 93 17:20:37 GMT
Organization: Banyan Systems Inc.

I just bought a 10" Sears Table saw - their Contractors saw. After reading
the many flames regarding Sears tools, I'm wondering whether or not I should
return it and go with something else. I preferred the Craftsman over the
Delta, because of the cast iron extensions. The Craftsman also uses steel
handwheels as opposed to the plastic that Delta uses.

I've just about got the saw setup. I'm not crazy about the fence, but
Biesmeyer makes a bolt on replacement should I prefer to upgrade.

I'm interested in hearing the good and bad regarding the Craftsman 
Contractor's Saw. Note, I'm not interested in the other models Sears
offers.

Assuming I have $600.00 to spend, is there something else that is preferred
over the high end Craftsman Table Saw?


Jeff

Mail: jeff@banyan.com
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 22 Jan 1993 10:33:38 EST
From:         "Bramel, Jim" <UKA004@UKCC.UKY.EDU>
Subject:      Re: Vacuum hose reducers

I am surprised anyone would admit to owning anything Sears after the
beating I took a few weeks ago about my Sears tools.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: hope@cbnewsj.cb.att.com (edward m.hope)
Subject: Finishing Redwood
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 20:40:53 GMT
Keywords: redwood


I built several picnic tables out of redwood this summer. When I bought
the wood it was black looking so I planed everything down. The wood 
looked great, bright red. I sealed them with Thompsons water seal and
they looked great for a few months but now are turning black again.


Does anyone on the net have any suggestions for a sealer/clear finish
for redwood. It must also be for outside use. I have several requests
for more picnic tables for this spring and I would like to keep that 
redwood look.


Thanks

Ed hope
hope@cbnewsj.att.com
From: coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM (Chip Coffin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Planer Questions
Date: 27 Jan 1993 22:25:07 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Distribution: world
Reply-To: coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: surfin

>I don't understand - how does jointing affect the thickness of the wood?  Or
>were you using the jointer to face plane?

Yes, face joining - then you plane.  The stock is now straight and uniform.  

There are billions of ways to do edge joining without a joiner.  

Buying a jointer just to do occasional edges is a waste of money in 
my opinion.  You really want to make your stock perfectly square
and straight on *all* faces.  That's where the jointer really pays
off. 

But if you go to all the trouble to face join a board and you then don't
have a thicness planer to make the other side match - well, I suppose you
can use a dado or planer head for your radial arm saw, then one swipe with
the jointer to clean it up...... it could work - or do a resaw job with 
your table saw with the joined face against fence - that could work.

But having a planer makes it so much easier (no s**t sherlock....).


chip


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: kaliher@skyler.mavd.honeywell.com
Subject: Re: workbench height
Organization: Honeywell Systems & Research Center
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 15:15:35 GMT

> : So, what height is appropriate? ...  It really comes
> down to what you feel comfortable with, though.
> 
> If I have to stoop at all my back starts to bother me.  If you start
> high you can make the bench shorter later on.
> 
I have the same problem with my back.  My wish is to find an old barber's
chair to install in my shop, and rebuild it into a work bench.  Fully 
adjustable height, rotates 360 degrees, can be locked at any position.  
Maybe even with tilt capability, and sturdy enough for most any project.
My more immediate goal is to devise a bench with a hydraulic feature to 
control the height.  Retractable casters would be nice also.

I can dream, can't I?
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,misc.consumers.house
From: kdk4166@usl.edu (Knierim Kathleen D)
Subject: Re: hardwood floor repair
Organization: University of Southwestern Louisiana
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 21:46:28 GMT

In article <1993Jan25.020700.5478@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (patterson,george r) writes:
>

discussion of replacing a tongue & groove floor board deleted....

>The tongue & groove method locks one board to another to form a basically
>solid mass. One board cannot bend without its neighbors also bending. Now,
>if you remove the bottom piece of the groove in the new board, there's
>nothing below the tongue in the old one next to it to keep it from moving
>downwards - except the subfloor. If you don't have a subfloor, 3/4 inch
>oak can bend as much as 1/8" in between 16" joists with a small man (me,
>for example) on it. A heavy person can crack it. And, believe me, 1/8"
>is enough to make you very nervous about stepping there.
>
>If you want to see how this feels, take a piece of 1xwhatever and lay it
>across two 2xwhatevers and step on it.
>
>Anyway, it shouldn't be a problem. The only place I have seen flooring
>put down without a subfloor is attic or dormer bedrooms.

Don't know how common this is, but my house built in late 1940's has tongue &
groove oak strip floors with no subfloor anywhere in the house.  I appreciate
seeing the comments quoted above - if I run across the need to replace a board
I'll keep the flexing problem in mind!

Now for another wood floor question:  I've read repeatedly that refinishing a
small area rather than a whole room doesn't work if the finish is polyurethane.
What happens if one tries sanding and refinishing a small area?  In the middle
of my den there is an area with warped boards due to a leaking canteen sitting
on the floor for a few hours :(.  Is the only way to fix this to have the entire
room sanded and refinished?  It was already sanded once just before I moved in, 
and not having any subfloor I don't really want to sand more wood off the floor
than necessary.

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: micki@netcom.com (Michelle Stone)
Subject: Re: Hey! Lets have a survey....
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1993 19:18:59 GMT

I am going to do a head board for my bed.  I have a good idea
in my mind of what I want it to look like.  But I think that 
I will peruse the furniture stores today to see what features
I would like to incorporate.

I would really like to use some of the dead space directly 
behind the head of the bed and under the shelf.  I thought
that I would put some inset doors on the sides.  Anyone 
have an idea that might be more useful?

Michelle

-- 
micki@netcom.com

By the way.  I find myself to be a recent addition to the 
unemployment statistic.  I am a software manager living
in silicon valley.  If you know of an opportunity, please
let me know!


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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 26 Jan 1993 09:53:05 -0800
From:         RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM
Subject:      Re: Power Hand-Planer Question (naive alert!)

I've had a hand held power plane (black & decker bottom of the line $39) for
several years now.

It's farr too short to turn upside down and use as a jointer planer and I've
had very poor luck trying to use it as a serface planer on any thing more than
4" wide.

It's very good for trimming doors down to size (though mine didn't come with
a 90 deg guide which is just about manditory for door trimming) and does a
wonderful job of quickly camphering edges.

It's a pretty good jack of all trades and I tend to use it as a special version
of a belt sander.

If your not doing doors I wouldn't recomend you spend the money on one (cheep
or not); but, if your going to do doors make sure you get a 90 deg fence.

                        Ron Tye (all opininons my own)
From: millios@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (william.l.millios)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: NYW bashing; was 'HOMETIME'
Date: 26 Jan 93 19:58:45 GMT
Organization: AT&T

In article <1993Jan22.180029.15463@informix.com> davek@informix.com (David Kosenko) writes:
>If you really pay attention, you will probably find that the most
>commonly used "esoteric gimcrack" in Norm's repetoire is the common
>router!

This month's Home Mechanix magazine (don't flame me - it was a
gift) has a little review of Norm and his power-tool ways.

He has, believe it or not, 9 routers in the New Yankee Workshop.

Draw your own conclusions.

Bill
(who wishes he had Norm's subsidies)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: smb@research.att.com (Steven Bellovin)
Subject: Re: Wiring TS.
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 21:17:29 GMT
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories

In article <1jkcspINN5oc@jethro.Corp.Sun.COM>, keith@badseed.Eng.Sun.COM (Keith) writes:
> 
> During the setup of my Table Saw(haven't finished yet), I've been watching the
> wiring discussions with some interest, but not much attention to detail.  I
> found the motor to be 1.5 HP and 17.2 amps @ 110V.  Now I don't know much about
> the subject of house wiring, and was wondering if some kind soul could clue me
> in.  I seem to recal that somewhere in normal 110V house wiring there is a 15 amp
> component(fuse or outlet).  This probably means I should rewire for 220V and run
> a line into my garage from the clothes dryer.  Is this reasonable?  Or, am I 
> mistaken and can run the saw from a standard receptacle?  Also note the outlet
> is at the farthest point from the breaker box in my house.

OK.  The first step, of course, is to read the wiring FAQ.  Briefly,
though, trying to run that saw on a 115V, 15A circuit is iffy -- you're
liable to pop the breaker simply from the startup current.  Second,
if there's a long wiring run to the outlet, at 14 gauge, you're going
to see more voltage drop than is desirable.  You might be able to get
away with it, but it's not good for the motor.  My Delta contractor's
saw, which if I recall correctly draws ~14 amps, is supposed to be
wired to a 20A circuit if configured for 110V, with 12 gauge wire.
You could probably get away with the same setup, without any problems,
*if* you had a short run to the breaker box.  But you don't.

Yes, 220V is probably the right way to go.  But using the dryer's
circuit isn't good.  That circuit is almost certainly 30 amps, and
you shouldn't plug a saw with 20 amp wiring into a 30 amp circuit.
(At 220V, your saw will draw ~9 amps in normal operation, but the
wiring will still handle the 20 amps it's designed for when wired
for 110V.  Amps is amps.)  The right way to do things is to run a new
line.  Not knowing your house, I have no idea whether or not that's
feasible.  Also, you probably can't simply add a breaker panel to the
dryer's wire, because in the U.S. dryers are (stupidly, in my opinion)
allowed to have a shared ground and neutral.

It might be worth talking over the problem with an electrician, especially
if you're not experienced in doing wiring.
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Thu, 28 Jan 1993 18:50:00 EDT
From:         DAVID FARR <dfarr@ASRR.ARSUSDA.GOV>
Subject:      Singley Drum Sander

Singley sanding drums allow the use of any sandpaper, but they are
rather expensive.  Do they work well?  If I was to buy only one, which
size would you suggest.
  Dave
 Farr
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: hollen@megatek.UUCP (Dion Hollenbeck)
Subject: Re: ROUTER TABLES
Organization: Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 19:58:12 GMT

>>>>> On Tue, 26 Jan 1993 10:59:19 EST, pileiro@SATURN.GLASSBORO.EDU said:
Frank> Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU

Frank>         I am presently considering building a router table for
Frank> my small shop.  I will be using it for general routing and
Frank> shaping as well as raised panels for cabinet work.  Has anybody
Frank> had good results with any particular make or model of router.
Frank> I want one that it variable speed and of course can handle some
Frank> heavy duty use.

I have been using a Porter Cable in my router table and have been very
happy with it.  However, have not used any panel raising bits.  Don't
buy the D-handle variety, get the kind you can remove both knobs from
the base.

-- 
Dion Hollenbeck                        Email: hollen@megatek.com
Senior Software Engineer                      megatek!hollen@uunet.uu.net
Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California    ucsd!megatek.uucp!hollen
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 25 Jan 1993 12:45:18 EST
From:         Bill Alexander <ALEX@NKI.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Table Saw Experiences
              25 Jan 1993 14:52:01 GMT from <corwin@CBNEWSG.CB.ATT.COM>

>  .....
>So is the tilting arbor saw really just a contractors saw mounted
>on a box with cast iron table extensions?
...
Not the one that I saw. The extensions were stamped steel. Of course, if
your're going to put a Unifence on it, the right-hand extension comes off
anyway ...
From: hope@cbnewsj.cb.att.com (edward m.hope)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Turning Baseball Bats
Keywords: turning bats
Date: 26 Jan 93 20:47:16 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: AT&T

I'm just starting to feel comfortable with my new lathe (It's a Craftsmen
and I'm proud of it) and was thinking about turning same baseball bats
for the local little league. 

Does anyone have any suggestions on wood type, ash has been mentioned in
my conversations but nobody seems to know for sure.

Any tips for finishing are also welcomed.



Thanks 

Ed Hope 
hope@cbnewsj.att.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: kopca@mksol.dseg.ti.com (David J Kopca)
Subject: Re: Hey! Lets have a survey....
Organization: Texas Instruments
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 21:24:58 GMT


This survey is a pretty good idea!

I finished Norm's woodworking bench.  It turned out nice; however,
I just saw the plans for another woodworker's bench in one 
of the wood worker's notes (don't remember which one).  I
think I could work better with that one, so I might ...

Ooops!  Better stick with what I have for now. ;-)

I'm currently building Wood magazine's bookcase.  I couldn't
afford walnut, so I'm using white oak.  I'm a little
concerned about using oak after reading the postings about
the wood file cabinet.  Anybody else make the same bookcase?

 Side Note:
    This last weekend went to a Table Saw Techniques seminar given
    by Roger Cliffe.  Excellant.  If anybody gets a chance to see him,
    go for it.


Dave
kopca@ap040.dseg.ti.com
From: mlh1@bunny.gte.com (Michael Hackney)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Laminate Bond that Didn't
Date: 22 Jan 93 15:19:00 GMT
Followup-To: rec.woodworking
Organization: GTE Laboratories

In article <1993Jan21.201450.7362@slustl.slu.edu>, guy@slustl.slu.edu (Guy
Smith) wrote:
> 
> In article <8090025@hpfcdc.fc.hp.com> bennett@hpfcdc.fc.hp.com (Steve Bennett) writes:
> >I recently applied a piece of plastic laminate to a small table top. For
> >some reason (maybe the shop wasn't quite warm enough?), I didn't get a good
> >bond on one of the edges. I can peal it back about a half inch along that side.
> >
> >What's the recommended technique to fix this sort of problem? Any suggestions
> >would be gratefully accepted!
> I had a similar problem with a commercially produced laminate counter.
> As it was still under warranty, they came out and fixed it. They just
> cleaned out the dried contact cement and injected yellow glue and clamped
> it. Still ok one year later.

I've done this sort of repair too - but don't use yellow glue, the formica
laminate is not porous enough to get a good bond. Use epoxy instead.
Clamping is critical. I use a 3/4" plywood scrap several inches longer than
the delamination and use as many clamps as you can get on it.

Also, the temperature of the shop probably wasn't the direct cause of the
poor lamination. You either 1) didn't wait until the solvent was completely
evaporated, 2) had a greasy residue (fingerprints?) on either the laminate
or substrate 3) didn't have enough contact cement at the edges (I always
double coat 2" around the edges) or 4) (and most likely) didn't press the
laminate tightly around the edges. Use either a rolling pin or a
laminate/veneer "J" roller and go around the edges 3 times at least. I also
cant the roller at ~5 degrees to increase the pressure at the edge.


lift this side ~ 1/2"|
                     v
                     OOOOOOOOOO   'J' roller                 
        xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx      laminate
        ####################       substrate
        ####################



all is not lost - hope this helps,
michael
From: ghandhi@bdrc.bd.com (Jamshed B. Ghandhi)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Table Saw Experiences
Date: 27 Jan 93 13:15:11 GMT
Reply-To: ghandhi@bdrc.bd.com (Jamshed B. Ghandhi)
Organization: Becton Dickinson Research Center

The new Unigard is called the Deluxe Unigard model XX-XXX (I forget).  I just 
purchased one and installed it on a 10" Contractors saw with 30" unifence.  If is well 
thought out, a far cry from the original equipment.  The switch relocation requires 
some rewiring but is well worth the effort.  There are some adjustments needed to 
keep the motor from interfering with the mounting brackets of the support rail but 
these ajustments are easy to do.  The new splitter is easily removed, independant of 
the guard and stores in a convenient slot on the arm adjacent to the switch.  The 
guard includes a push stick with an arm-mounted tray to store it in right next to the 
switch.  No excuse for not using it now.

BTW, I purchased mine from Phelps Bros in upstate NY for $189 + $10 shipping.  
They are also available from Tool Crib of the North or Tools ON Sale (I forget which) 
for $219 delivered.

good luck and save those fingers

Jamshed B. Ghandhi
Computer Aided Engineering
From: chris@xerox.com (Chris Heiny 73186 - SETA)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: workbench height
Date: 27 Jan 93 16:15:39 GMT
Reply-To: chris@xerox.com
Organization: Xerox Corporation, Webster NY

Steve,

I'm 6'0" and find 39" to be about right for work that doesn't require a
lot of downforce, and 32" or so to be good for stuff that really requires 
me to get my weight into it.

Landis' "Workbench Book" suggests that the benchtop should about the same height
as your palm when your hand is held at your side with the palm down.

						Chris
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 22 Jan 1993 10:07:34 EST
From:         Bob Pelcovits <PH500000@BROWNVM.BITNET>
Subject:      Vacuum hose reducers

I am looking for a source of vacuum hose reducers in particular to hook up the
1 1/4" outlet of my miter saw with my Sears vac which is 2 1/4" or 2 1/2", I
don't recall which. Sears does not appear to sell the necessary adapter.



                                  --Bob Pelcovits
                                  Robert_Pelcovits@brown.edu
                                  (401)-863-1432
                                  FAX (401)-863-1157
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: BCLEWIS@LSTC2VM.stortek.com (Brian Lewis)
Subject: Re: Spiral Cutting Jig
Organization: StorageTek SW Engineering
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 17:43:02 GMT

>
Ed Hope writes:
>
>I believe Sears has a gizmo that you can attach a router to to make spirals.
>Although I have not used this gizmo, reviews I've read have been positive.
>
>Has anybody used this gizmo or know its real name?
 
Is it the "Router Crafter" you're talking about?
 
I have one.  Have had only limited success with it.
 
Fluting dowels might be a bit too delicate an operation for it.
 
Brian