HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Re: Early 80s diesel VW pickup???
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 20:26:07 GMT

In article <1992O (Tom Guptill) writes:
|> Diesel advantages:
|> 
|> - Great fuel economy (50+ mpg in Rabbits, slightly lower in trucks)
|> - Very cheap in some areas ( $0.95 as compared to $1.20 for gas )
|> - If properly maintained will run practically forever.
|> - Shares most parts in common w/ gas vehicles (trans., alternator, starter,
|>   etc..)
|> - The ability to create huge clouds of black smoke to discourage tailgaters
|>   :)

- I'm still trying to think of some, but no luck so far....
- How about - no ignition points!

|> Gas advantages:
|> 
|> - Power.  Diesels before '85 have 48 or 52hp engines.  Trucks are especially
|>   sluggish.
|> - Maintainence.  No fuel/water seperator to change, timing belt less
|>   critical, and oil is cheaper.
|> - Noise.  Nobody ever called diesels quiet.
|> - Availablity of fuel.  All gas stations sell gas.

- Cleaner body and engine bay (diesel soots up tail, fuel is oily).
- Cleaner emissions (diesels are allowed higher NOx in some areas 
  and they are higher in particulates).
- Provides free vacuum source for power brakes (diesels need vacuum pump).
- Provides that thrilling high-pitch German engine sound (diesels-low RPM).
- Less oil changes than diesel.
- Availability of parts.
- No silly glow plug warmup time in cold weather.

Obviously, I prefer the gas versions.

Mark

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: hvozda@wilbur.psu.edu (Eric Hvozda)
Subject: Re: air-cooled
Organization: Penn State University, Center for Academic Computing
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 92 14:34:28 GMT

In article <1992Oct14.151240.16476@unvax.union.edu> lagrangj@unvax.union.edu (Joshua C. LaGrange) writes:
>Well, did a lot of you water-cooled people own air-cooleds before?  Is there a sense of long term VW loyalty?  Is any body out there embarrassed to see a beat Type Two or a humble Beetle?  Just wondering.  Post replies, please.
>

Interesting question, so I shall give and interetsing (or so I hope) answer:

In our family the answer is yes.

It all started when my father brought his first Ghia back from germany when
he was in the service.  Indecidently he had put down payment on a corvette
before he was to leave for europe, but the dealer screwed him on it when
he got his papers and had to leave.

After that we had 4 more Ghias, 2 Vans, 1 Fastback, 2 Golfs, 1 Vanagon, and
the newest addition is Jetta.  All vehicles have been driven +120K miles
or are on their way to it :-)

We don't just buy VW blindly.  We shop around everytime we buy a new car. Two
major factors are economy and longevity.  Servicabilty is also high on
our list.  For these things, we cannot seem to beat VW....
-- 
Ack!                             esh101@psuvm.psu.edu             ESH101@PSUVM
hvozda@vivaldi.psu.edu           hvozda@wilbur.psu.edu            DoD #0217
From: blu@cellar.org (Dan Reed)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Ghia Goes Topless!
Date: 15 Oct 92 14:18:26 GMT
Organization: The Cellar BBS and public access system


                            Ghia Goes Topless!
 
Preface - This Ghia was really nothing special, it was just a 1970
          hardtop.  While it was in "fair" shape, it needed severe help.
          Seems where the rear suspension is attched to the car, was no
          longer there (rusted away).  The car also needed a new "nose"
          (the original had been hit, then *hammered* back out, the metal
          was trash).  Rockers were no longer there, and the car was
          converted from an AutoStick, to a 4 speed.  The 4 speed gear
          box, is making "all sorts of funny sounds", and sometimes wont
          go into 3rd gear.  Aside from the interor, gauges, hood, deck
          lid, rear fenders, and engine, this car is crap.  Enter Corey's
          project Ghia.
            Corey's Ghia is in bad shape.  Its a 1969'vert that was found
          in a junk yard in South NJ (USA).  He got the car for $100.
          The car has no engine, trans, floors, top, hood, deck lid, or
          interior.  Corey *swears* that this will be a nice car.  What
          he plans to do is take whats left of the 1970, and put it on
          the 69'.
 
          SOOOOOooooooooo...
 
  The two Ghias are sitting in our garage, and we decide to start to
strip the 1970.  After pulling out the engine, interior, glass, and
gauges, we start to think about what can be done with the "shell" of the
car.  We do a lot of metal work in the garage, so any metal of decent
quality is cut, and saved, and can be used later for patches or whatever.
So, without second thought, we cut the roof off.  All we needed was a
hack saw, and within 10 min, we were through all four roof pillers.  We
cut them so about 6" was left on each one, off the body.  We stood back..
  This looks cool!  Picture this, a Ghia, that now has no roof, and the
front windshield looks about 6" tall.  The car looks much longer and
sleeker.  We got to thinking...  what if we made this a "summer" only
car, a car with no roof.  Has anyone out there done this?  I know the
roof is(was) a important part of the car, as it kept it from flexing.
Does anyone make a roll bar for Ghias (for rollover AND anti-body flex)?


----- 
 Dan Reed (Blu-Max) blu@cellar.org - AutoCad Geek - VW Lover - InlineSkater 
68 Cougar XR-7, 89 VW Golf, 72 Honda CL360Twin, Ti/99/4a, Vextrex, Timex
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu
Subject: Re: what octane rating to use?
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 20:26:18 GMT
Organization: University of Louisville

In article <1992Oct09.153812.28201@microsoft.com>, laurahal@microsoft.com (Laura Halliday) writes:
> my '72 Fastback says 91 octane. Since you can't buy such (leaded) gasoline
> anymore in Canada, I run Helga on 92 octane unleaded and pray for the
> exhaust valves. She knocked on 87 octane regular, and I didn't want to
> derange the fuel injection by playing with the timing.

Any VW made after about '68 has hardened valve seats and will do fine on
unleaded.  The fuel injection is triggered by the relation between the
distributor and the spark contacts.  Therefore, changing the timing will at the
same time change the fuel-injection timing to compensate.  Besides, your timing
changes as your ignition points age anyway.

> 
> If you know exactly what you're doing, you can experiment. You'll want to
> measure performance and mileage, listen for knocking, keep an eye on your
> sparkplugs, and keep your timing light handy.
> 
> ...laura

My '77 bus used to knock all the time (and I only ran it on 91 octane super
unleaded).  After I timed it well, I started using 87 octane regular unleaded. 
I have not noticed any difference in power, mileage, or engine heat.  My points
are lasting longer, too.  Go figger.

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
|pH Fred == pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu    |         "What we lack         |
|        == ..!psuvax1!ulkyvx.bitnet!pgheit01 |   in enthusiasm, we make up   |
|           University of Louisville          |         for in apathy."       |
|                Louisville, KY               |                               |
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
From: baw2@cunixb.cc.columbia.edu (Bruce A Weisberg)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: starter problems, 1977 Rabbit
Date: 12 Oct 92 23:38:11 GMT
Reply-To: baw2@cunixb.cc.columbia.edu (Bruce A Weisberg)
Organization: Columbia University


	When I start my bunny, sometimes she hesitates..wahat I mean is the starter  cranks 3-4 times, kinda hesitates for a moment, then cranks a coupla times more, then the engine starts.  Solenoid has been replaced; My gues is either
the alternator is faulty or the starter is going.  Would like to rplace the 
culprit.  Any suggestions?

	Bruce
	1967 Kombi
	1977 Rabbit (FI Gas)
	Not looking for A 1987!
From: greis@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Gayla Ann Greis)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Driving Cars to the ground
Date: 9 Oct 1992 18:22:01 GMT
Organization: Computing Services Division, University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
NNTP-Posting-Host: 129.89.7.4

In article <8OCT199212343313@cc.utah.edu> mgb5528@cc.utah.edu (Beck, Michael Gregory) writes:
>It seems to me that all of the problems on the cars that are talked about are 
>just driven to the ground.  100k miles and only 4 years old? WOW!  Where do you 
>guys drive?  Across the country every year?  Please for those of you who are 

Almost anyone in sales experiences this. It sure seems like across the
country!

>about to flame the hell out of me I AM NOT CRITICIZING! I wish that I had the 

Dont be so damn apologetic!

>that alot of these problems that you talk about arise not from general bad 
>design of the car but pure and simple wear and tear that comes with 100k+ miles 
>of driving the car.

In almost all of today's cars, one would expect to be able to get close to
300K out of them with proper maintenece and care. Manufacture and design
have evolved by leaps and bounds to allow us to have a 134Hp 4cyl 2L
engine as stock in a fairly large car! Wear and tear are one thing, but
it is in this high usage driving that these new designs are really put to
the test. When you pay almost $20K for a new car, it should darn well last
into the 200K mile range. Sitting is harder on a car than driving it is.
Of course your car will last longer, but usually you don't get as many
miles out of it.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: cole@rtsg.mot.com (Timothy Cole)
Subject: Re: Driving Cars to the ground
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 19:09:47 GMT

In article <8OCT199212343313@cc.utah.edu> mgb5528@cc.utah.edu (Beck, Michael Gregory) writes:
>It seems to me that all of the problems on the cars that are talked about are 
>just driven to the ground.  100k miles and only 4 years old? WOW!  Where do you 
>guys drive?  Across the country every year?   

Where do I drive?  To work, 750 miles a week!  :-)

>My apologies to any that I have offended or hate me for my comments.

No flame intented, just answering your question.  ;-)







-- 

	Tim Cole
	Motorola Inc.
	Cellular Infrastructure Group.........GO PACKERS!
From: dans@danix.UUCP (Dan Simoes)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Passat GLX (VR6)
Date: 16 Oct 92 02:41:29 GMT
Organization: Danix Consulting

I just saw the new Passat at my dealer this afternoon.
It looks the same outside except for larger (and nicer) wheels
and tires.  It was an automatic... (hope they offer stick in
the US).

Watch out Camry, 626 and Accord!  Sing it Helga...
'Fahr-ver-gnu-gen'

:-)

| Dan |
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 
Dan Simoes            email: dans@danix.uucp or          
Danix Consulting       dans%danix.uucp@uunet.uu.net       
Yorktown Hgts, NY     voice: (914) 747-1994 ext.415
From: tgpt_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Tom Guptill)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Diesel acceleration (such as it is) stumble
Date: 12 Oct 92 19:46:16 GMT
Organization: University of Rochester (Rochester, NY)




	OK, here's the problem.  My '82 diesel Rabbit has developed a sort
of a "stumble" under hard acceleration.  The engine begins to accelerate,
then sort of "hesitates", there is a momentary loss of power, and then
everything is fine.  It seems almost as if one or more of the cylinders is
failing to fire.  It's not especially cold out, and I haven't put any
treatment into the fuel.  It could be just a bad tank of diesel, but it's
beginning to worry me.  (I'm going to be relying on that car a great deal
over the next several months to go on some fairly long trips).  Any ideas? 
Bad fuel?  Sudden, unforseen injector troubles?  (It just started happening
all of a sudden.) Serious internal problems?  Clogged fuel/water seperator? 
Anyone?  Thanks in advance...


  
-- 
|Tom Guptill           | tgpt_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu  (internet)  |
|CPU Box 277445 U of R |  "    " @db1.cc.rochester.edu (alt internet) |
|Rochester, NY 14627   |  "    " @uordbv (bitnet)                     |
|(716) 274-0156        |                                              |
From: cschweis@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (schweiss lester h)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Ghia Goes Topless!
Date: 16 Oct 92 00:48:56 GMT
Article-I.D.: news.Bw6vLL.Hr7
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana


      The only thing to be added to the car to make up for the lack of the
roof is extra support along the rockers (heater channels).  This is the 
only addition VW did to the 'verts.  As long as the tunnel is still rigid 
you sould be in good shape.  I would inspect the tunnel throughly since 
an auto stick to 4-spd converson was made and requires a lot of work in
the tunnel and is often cut open in the process and should be welded back
throughly to maintain strength.
      There are larger sway bars available for the Ghia, from BugPack.  Two
versions are available one for normal ride height and one for lowering.  
Make sure you chose the proper one for your use, because clearance problems
can will be present if not used for the correct application.
From: glenn@misty.boeing.com (Glenn Cirlincione)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Re: New Golfs/Jettas
Date: 9 Oct 92 21:20:33 GMT
Organization: Boeing Commercial Airplane BCS Support

VW was here is Washington State the past two weeks filming commercials
with all their new 93's including some models with the new V-6.
From: jimt@carson.u.washington.edu (James Thompson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: octane
Keywords: What exactly is it ?
Date: 10 Oct 92 22:04:58 GMT
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle

In article <1992Oct10.050520.21316@news.iastate.edu> schrader@pi.eai.iastate.edu (Dave Schrader) writes:
>This may sound silly but just what was 92 or 87 octane really mean ?  I often see an equation
>on the bottom of the octane sticker that says something like R+M/something  method.  Does anyone
>know what octane numbers really relate to ( besides cost and resistance to pre-ignition ) ? Surly
>they must reduce to some physical property like watts or volts or something like that.

Octane refers to the behavior of a fuel, as compared to an ideal sample of the
compound 'octane', which is that member of the methane group containing eight
carbon atoms.  Gasoline is a mixture of compounds, one of which may be octane.
100 octane gasoline should behave just like pure octane.

In practice, though, there are two methods of measuring octane: the 'research'
method, in which a quantitative analysis of the fuel is made, and the 'motor'
method, which involves burning the fuel in a number of different engines, each
of which is calibrated to ping at a particular octane number.  The 'R+M/2'
method listed on most gas pumps refers to the fact that these numbers are
found by taking the average of the results found by the two methods.

Jim
From: pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Ghia - Octane
Date: 15 Oct 92 14:21:04 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Louisville

In article <1992Oct15.131454.23725@alw.nih.gov>, meyer@helix.nih.gov (Meyer Gordon) writes:
> The sticker at the gas spout on my '72 Ghia says "91", which would mean
> that I should be using premium gas (91 octane).  I've been using regular
> unleaded (87 octane) and adding Bardahl Instead-O-Lead at each fill-up.
> Should I really be using the high priced stuff?


Most of the lead substitutes I have used were just for the lubrication
properties.  Read the bottle to see if Bardahl will increase octane.

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
|pH Fred == pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu    |         "What we lack         |
|        == ..!psuvax1!ulkyvx.bitnet!pgheit01 |   in enthusiasm, we make up   |
|           University of Louisville          |         for in apathy."       |
|                Louisville, KY               |                               |
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Re: Neuspeed suspension upgrade
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 16:20:00 GMT

I had the same problem with the exhaust hitting a front sway bar.
I wrapped it with a rubber hose and tie-wraps.
The exhaust pipe just beat a hole in the hose.
I evently changed the sway bar, as I didn't like the idea of
stressing (bending) the exhaust system every time it bumped
the bar.  Something to consider.  How about raising the 
system up by changing the hangers?

Mark
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: lagrangj@unvax.union.edu (Joshua C. LaGrange)
Subject: Purple VW
Summary: Purple Camper Pop-Top for sale
Organization: Union College, Schenectady, NY
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 15:09:10 GMT

Look at the article under Josh LaGrange for the ad.  -Josh
From: eliot@engr.washington.edu (eliot)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: saw the new golf today
Date: 13 Oct 92 19:22:19 GMT
Organization: University of Washington


It was a 4 dr "GL" with a 8 valve 2 liter 4 banger.  From the rear it
looks like a Civic hatchback.  The roofline slopes down slightly
towards the rear, just like the Civic.  All in the name of
aerodynamics, I suppose.  Overall the styling is simple, unremarkable
and most importantly, inoffensive, taking into account its mass market
targets.

The front bumper has 3 sets of "lights" on each side; the amber parking
light/indicator, followed by two sets of reflectors,  just like the
Audi 4000s.   What a con!  Fog lights and driving lights will go in
very nicely there.  If I were running an aftermarket outfit, I'd
start stocking up real quick.

Oh, the car is a area-rep's special.  It is not for sale yet.  I
forgot to ask when the Golfs will start selling, but it can't possibly
be much longer.

Anyway, the interior is where I see the biggest improvement.  The
plastics are far less reflective now, and look very very classy
despite being all black.  The instruments are smaller with sharper
graphics, there's a LCD odometer a la Corrado SLC.  Also, all the
switches do not have any sharp edges; they curl up into a bump, so to
speak.  The ventilation controls are now the well known 3 rotary dials
that we see in some Audis and BMWs.  Nice stuff.  This particular car
came with Japanese style power moonroof.  Yea!!

The interior light clusters and moonroof switches reminded me of Audi
more than it did VW.  The rear doors incorporate a 2 way speaker
system, as do the fronts.  The tweeter is located just forward of the
door opener.  Very slick looking.  The door trim is a velvet like
material.  The gear knob unfortunately is still shiny cheap plastic.
This car had no air bag; it had the door mounted passive belts.  The
seats had a striped colored texture to break up the monotonous black.
The car was also equipped with an alarm.

Tires were Goodyear Invicta GLs, didn't get to see the size.  I think
they were either 175s or 185s.

Finally I spoke to the VW area rep about the VR6 Golf.  He said that
it was very unlikely that they will bring one in, because it would
cost too much to certify it bearing in mind the expected sales
figures.  Apparently Americans don't quite like Golf GTIs.  A 6
cylinder Golf has to be certified seperately from a 4 cylinder one, it
seems.  All models of Jetta and Golf will be assembled in Mexico,
including the V6 Jetta.  The VR6 engine will be made in Germany, then
sent to Mexico for installation.

That's all for now.  No I didn't get to drive it.  Didn't have the
time anyway.


eliot
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: ghee@vision.larc.nasa.gov (Terry A. Ghee)
Subject: Re: Engine stalls
Organization: NASA Langley Research Center, Hampton, VA  USA
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 13:30:56 GMT

I have a similar problem on my 1988 VW Fox GL wagon.
It doesn't stall usually, but I experience some
rather serious hesitation problems the first few accelerations.
It will also have on occasion a periodic drop in engine rpm
after warm up at idle (like, when I'm sitting at a traffic
light).  The period of this drop in RPM is about every 2 secs.
I've also noticed that turning over the car in the morning takes
about 2 to 5 sec. in the morning (although it seems like 20 secs.!)

Anyway, I've checked the cold start valve and thermo time switch and the
cold start wiring.  No problems found there.  I've resigned myself
into the fact it may be a computer problem.  I'm not sure I'm
prepared to shell out big bucks on a problem that is more of an
annoyance than (to me) a serious problem.  I change the oil
every 4 to 6000 miles have changed the air filter at 30K.
The fuel filter has not been changed yet and is probably
due
soon (I have 48K on car).  Any suggestions, I would appreciate
the advice.  Sorry, I couldn't offer the original poster any
help into his problem, but maybe we are dealing with a similar problem.

Terry Ghee
From: hersh@expo.lcs.mit.edu (Jay Hersh)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: UPDATE: Squareback isn't holding charge.
Date: 9 Oct 92 22:19:51 GMT
Organization: X Consortium, MIT Laboratory for Computer Science

01ksdavis@bsu-ucs.uucp (Rebel without a clue.) writes:

>-- 
>	Update on my squareback:  


>		Had the regulator replaced and the belt tightened.  It still is
>	acting up, though.  I plan to trace all of the wires next.


>	Any other ideas?


God does this dredge up nightmares.  I suffered through something very
similar and from what I understand common problem in these cars.  Unfortunately
I took it to the dealer who I stupidly assumed would have someone who
knew how to fix it (it was a 71 squareback in 82).  This assumption did not
hold.  The problem was bad fuel pump relays.  When they get old the contacts
stay open and drain the battery.  The dealer had his mechanic spend 6 hours
tracing the problem and in the process destroyed my ignition switch which
he then tried to charge me to replace.  The total tab was over $180.  When
the back ordered service manual arrived I found there are junction boxes
in the car that allow for easy testing of the electrical system and that
all the wiring is color coded.  It really should have taken no more than
30 minutes to diagnose this problem.  The VW guru I spoke with at the time
said "oh yeah" when I told him the symptoms (this was when he was fixing
something else after I had the dealer fix the short), he said that happens
all the time on that model.

The other hassle about this was the way I found out about the short was
my battery drained, but it was old so I got a new one at Sears.  Two days
later it was dead again, so much for Sears written guarantee that they
checked the electrical system when installing the battery.  I had to really
hassle with the sleazeball manager to get a new battery.

So my advice is to check the fuel pump relays.  There are 2 of them, one
front and one rear and they are very likely sources for your problem.


	JaH
--
Hopfen und Malz, Gott erhalts
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw