HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: Carlos Eberhardt <eber0005@student.tc.umn.edu>
Subject: {F} Green Terror Disease? ID please
X-Xxmessage-Id: <A73400779E01651B@dialup-slip-1-27.gw.umn.edu>
X-Xxdate: Sat, 21 Nov 92 15:04:23 GMT
Organization:  University of Minnesota
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d12
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1992 21:06:51 GMT

	I recently purchased a 4" Green Terror. Unfortunately I failed to notice
some odd spots on his fins until I got him home. I am considering
returning him, but he gets along with my 8" oscar quite well, and I don't
know if I want to start 'trial-and-error'ing for a new tank mate.
	What I see is this: 3 small (1mm long) oval shaped spots on his fins.
Two on one pectoral fin, and one on the tail end of his dorsal. They are
tannish-yellow in color, and are raised. They may even be some kind of
parasite, I don't know. The area around the spots appears to be just
fine. No sign of soreness or infection, although I am certainly no expert.
	I haven't noticed any abnormal behavior. The fish was very active from
the moment I put him into the tank. Relatively calm for what I hear about
green terrors.
	I'd like to get rid of this as soon as possible, since I really don't
need to deal with yet another disease attacking my oscar. If you can
E-mail me it is preferred.

Carlos Eberhardt ---------->  eber0005@student.tc.umn.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: jengagne@next03cville.wam.umd.edu (Jenny Lynne Gagne)
Subject: Re: Induced voltages
Reply-To: Jurassic Park as movie
Organization: Workstations at Maryland, University of Maryland, College Park
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 18:08:41 GMT

In article <1992Nov18.175001.7499@cs.ucla.edu> jason@lanai.cs.ucla.edu  
(Jason Rosenberg) writes:
..
> probe must be a good conductor, and be non-corrosive.  The only  
commercially
> available one I've seen is made of titanium.
..
> I really think your better off just buying the darn thing.  Unless you  
have
> a free source of titanium.

Say, isn't titamium what they use in orthopedic surgery for pins and  
plates and things? Or was that surgical steel? or was the steel the tools?
<sigh>  How much would a sliver of titanium be, anyway?
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: dbs@hprnd.rose.hp.com (Dave Sheehy)
Subject: Re: Why quarantine? (was ich)
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 18:33:38 GMT
Organization: HP - Systems Technology Division
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.8 PL6]

Arch Hughes (ahughes@arch386.hyperdesk.com) wrote:
: In article <1992Nov12.235532.1849@bagend.uucp>, jan@bagend.uucp (Jan Isley) writes:
: > 
: > Saltwater fish get a 13 minute freshwater dip and freshwater fish
: > get a 5 minute saltwater dip unless they appear to be dying of
: > stress before the time is up.  
: > -- 
: > Jan Isley   jan@bagend.uucp   gatech.edu!bagend!jan   (404)434-1335
: 
: A marine fish can take a 13 minute fresh water dip?  That seems like a
: pretty long time.  Is that a correct entry?  Is the time dependent on
: the subject's size?  Is this time for very large fish, small fish, or
: all fish?

Just to add fuel to the fire, here's an excerpt from my notes on Dr. Michael
K. Stopskopf's lecture at MACNA IV this past September. In this lecture he
outlined his recommended quarantine procedure.


Healthy Fish, Everyone's Goal: The Medical Care of Marine Tropical Fishes -
Dr. Michael K. Stoskopf
=============================================================================

Dr. Michael K. Stoskopf was the first Chief of Medicine for the National
Aquarium in Baltimore and served for a period of 8 years.

Michael focused his talk on the quarantine of marine tropicals.

The minimum quarantine period is 6 weeks.

Prophylaxis - Any prophylactic treatment is a tradeoff between the stress
	induced by the treatment and the damaged caused by the potential
	pathogen the treatment is for.

	Freshwater Dips - every other day, 3 times. [I don't remember specific
			  times but 3 minutes seems to stick in my head]

	Antibiotics - probably stupid to do as a prophylactic measure.

	Copper - copper is an immunosuppressant. Don't start a copper treatment 
		 until you're confident that there is no bacterial outbreak.

Important Quarantine Intervals

	Post Shipment Stress - allow stress to subside.

	Post Copper Rest - allow inmmune system to recover.

	Post System Exposure Observation - acclimation of new animals to main
		display microfauna.

Durations (and Quarantine Regimen)

	1 Week - Rest and Pre-treatment (freshwater dips)
	3 Weeks - Copper Treatment (.15 ppm)
	1-2 Weeks - Post Copper Rest
	1-2 Weeks - System Pre-Exposure

	System Pre-exposure - main display water is added to the quarantine
	tank in small quantities. The objective is to expose the new specimen
	to the main tank microfauna in a controlled setting. The new specimen
	may have never been exposed to some of the microfauna in the main
	display tank. After adding a small amount of system water you should
	observe the new animal for signs of disease and treat as necessary.

Dave Sheehy
From: tse@ra.nrl.navy.mil (Anthony Tse)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: [M] Moon light for reef
Date: 15 Nov 92 22:02:24 GMT
Article-I.D.: ra.Bxs2K1.8IA
Distribution: usa
Organization: Naval Research Lab, Washington, DC

Hello,
	I am ready to put a moon in my reef.  How is it done?  Do you
change the intensity and leave the moon on all night?  Or do you
fix the intensity and change the duration it is on?
    I am planning on doing the former so I don't have to stick my
head in my stand to change the timer peg everyday.  The setup
is a OSRAM 9W blue bulb since I have a 9W CF fixture in my junk pile.
I'll turn it on in the evening when I do my daily routine  and I'll
rubber band a piece of cardboard onto the fixture to reduce the light
output according to the phase of the moon.  Any comment?

-Anthony

PS And according to some, leaving the 9W blue bulb on will increase my
actinic ouput by 200W of 03s, my corals are going to triple in size now
:)  Sorry, I couldn't resist.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: wissler@stsci.edu (Steven Wissler,G12,4899,ADD.1-29-91)
Subject: Re: Algae on the hood...ick!
Originator: wissler@homer.stsci.edu
Organization: Space Telescope Science Institute
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 13:45:59 GMT

From article <flick.722152431@cwis>, by flick@cwis.unomaha.edu (John Anderson):
> I have several tanks, and on all the tanks I have the same problem.  Algae
> will grow in a thick coating on the glass/plastic above the tank where the
> light shines through.  I have tried reducing the time the light is on, but
> I also have plants and can't cut it too far back.  It is a MAJOR hassle to
> yank off the hood everytime I do a water change.  Are there any answers to
> my dilema???
> 
>	I eliminated my tank cover by using water-proof end caps on the
	florescent bulbs. If you have to have a tank cover (jumping
fish) then you need to keep it dry. Mine used to get wet mostly from
bubbles from the air-stones  popping on the surface. I also eliminated
the air-stones in the tank. I now have a wet-dry and protein-skimmer
which seem to do the job of keeping the water oxygenated. If you have to
have a tank cover and must have air-stones you can't do much about the
algae other than clean it off regularly.

						Steve Wissler
						wissler@stsci.edu
From: infante@acpub.duke.edu (Andrew  Infante)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: brine shrimp
Date: 23 Nov 92 16:53:40 GMT
Organization: Duke University; Durham, N.C.

Ross, I'd be interested in some eggs.

Is shipping too much or is it too far to North Carloina?

I'm still 2 hours from the ocean and don't even know if I could find
any there.

Thanks.

andy
From: mdkj@vax5.cit.cornell.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: (F) pine plants
Date: 16 Nov 92 19:56:52 EST
Followup-To: rec.aquaria
Distribution: rec
Organization: Cornell University

In article <Nov.14.23.57.01.1992.17236@yoko.rutgers.edu>,
ouyang@yoko.rutgers.edu (Ming Ouyang) writes: 
> 
> I saw a plant called "pine" in a mall petshop. What is its scientific
> name? And requirements? Do I need to say this? It looks like pine
> tree leaves but it lives in water. :-)
> 
> -- Ming Ouyang

Could it be you are talking about hornwort?  If is doesn't have roots (it
usually floats) and branches in all kinds of directions, that's probably what
it is.

John Opsomer

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: atd1@Ra.MsState.Edu (Anh T. Doan)
Subject: tiger barb......
Organization: Mississippi State University
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 20:43:07 GMT

 Hello everybody I am thinking a setting up an aqarium for the tiger barb...
  And i would like to know all the information about this species  
  like breeding.. and also how many fish should i put in a 90 gal tank???

                                  thankyou in advance.....:))
From: mdkj@vax5.cit.cornell.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [F] Driftwood in an aquarium?
Date: 19 Nov 92 19:14:40 EST
Distribution: rec
Organization: Cornell University

In article <1992Nov17.201021.5248@midway.uchicago.edu>,
mnc1@quads.uchicago.edu (Mr. Happy Carlson) writes: 
> Well, I did it. I went out and bought that 55 gallon tank I've been
> dreaming about. No I want to decorate it. I've got a few plants and
> I've got some Java moss on order. The guy in the aquarium store said
> Java moss does best on a piece of wood, rather than straight on the
> gravel. So I'm going to go find a piece of dried out wood and
> waterlog it and put it in my tank. Are there any chemistry type
> things to worry about when doing this? I certainly don't
> want some piece of rotten wood making my aquarium uninhabitable. Moderate
> pH changes shouldn't be a problem for the fish I have in mind. Any
> and all advice would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Matt Carlson  (mnc1@quads.uchicago.edu)
Well, Matt, much as I hate to send someone to the store for no reason, this is
one topic where I would recommend buying it from your favorite petshop.  While
it is true that some kinds of wood are less suitable than others, your biggest
worry is about how to prepare your wood for its permanent home in your tank...
No really, I mean it.  To ensure your driftwood not to leach nasty stuff in
your tank as well as rot, you need to bleach and/or boil it, as well as let it
soak for an extended period of time.  Except for very small pieces, which I
wouldn't recommend, this is VERY difficult to do yourself.  Plus, you can often
buy driftwood with holes in them (the fish love them!) as well as a piece of
shale attached to the bottom, which makes it easier to sink.
Otherwise, by all means, get driftwood.  Many algae-eating fish love to graze
on them (no pleco should be without it) and they look great after a period
under water.
Good luck,
John Opsomer
opsomer@orie.cornell.edu

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: dtl@kronecker.helios.nd.edu ()
Subject: vacation feedings
 
Organization: OUC, University of Notre Dame
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 23:21:00 GMT

	I have a five inch albino red tiger oscar in a 27 hex at my office.  
It is very difficult to arrange feeding when I am out of town for conferences
or vacations, and I would like to know how long he can go without food.  Last
summer he was nearly killed by massive overfeeding when I was gone (I was
greeted with masses of rotting fish food floating on the water on my return).
Also, one eye is still popeyed (this began when he was recovering from the
overfeeding and complications) but otherwise he seems disgustingly healthy, as
he is very active (jumps out of the tank to eat from my hand, etc.) and has
doubled in length in the past three months.  Is the popeye something that will
clear up in time, permanent, or a sign of lingering water quality problems?  I
have both internal and external filtration, and only the one fish (well, also
an uneaten guppy that's been there three months).  Any advice would be
appreciated.


						Thanks, 
						David Leighton

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: adwright@iastate.edu ()
Subject: brine shrimp
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames IA
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 16:30:01 GMT

I am interested in growing brine shrimp (Artemia) for fish food. Any 
info or shared experiences would be welcome. I am also interested in 
species of feeder shrimp that would work for fresh water. Can brine
shrimp tolerate fresh water? How much salt do they need? (minimum)

Brine shrimp used to be (and still may be) marketed as sea monkeys. The
eggs are actually cysts formed when winter comes in the salt lakes. They
are a perfect food, from what i have been reading,  for young fish and
thus very important for the fish farming industry. 

Thanks in advance.
Allen
From: AS.CCB@forsythe.stanford.edu (Christopher Bekins)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [M][B] Help & questions after 1st week cycling 1st tank
Date: 18 Nov 1992 12:43:10 -0800
Organization: Stanford University
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: morrow.stanford.edu

>(Todd Custer) writes:
>>
>> How long can the filter stand a power failure ?
>
(Dana) writes:
>Filtering:  Once your tank has cycled (in about 6 weeks
>or more - could take up to 8 weeks)  keep your under gravel
>clean.  Do not let excess waste build up;  it will only
>lead to water quality problems.

To Todd:  Dana's correct about keeping the gravel filterbed
clean, but don't clean the whole thing at one time; only clean
about 1/3 of the filterbed at a time when you do your water
changes (say about every 3 or 4 weeks).  Use a gravel vacuum
or just gently scoop out about a 1/3 of the gravel and rinse
it in a bucket using the tank water that you are siphoning out
of the tank (don't use tap water).  This way you don't spike
the tank chemistry too radically by stirring up all the gunk.

To fellow newsgroupers:  What about Todd's original question?
How long could a typical marine UGF stand a power outage?
How would you recover from, say, an 8 - 12 hour outage?  Do
an immediate radical water change?  Do a total filterbed rinse
(as described above) and then a 100% water change?  Anyone
had any experiences with power outages from which you successfully
recovered?

Cheers,
Christopher (week three of tank cycle - 5th tank start-up in 3 years)
From: oleg@Veritas.COM (Oleg Kiselev)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: brine shrimp
Date: 18 Nov 92 01:26:46 GMT
Reply-To: oleg@veritas.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Organization: Palo Alto Killifish Loft

Time to add the brine shrimp info to FAQ.  We get these questions all too
often.

adwright@iastate.edu () writes:
>I am interested in growing brine shrimp (Artemia) for fish food. 

The shrimp biomass to required water volume ratio is low and to grow enough
shrimp to make them a staple food requires a lot of water.

>Any >info or shared experiences would be welcome. 

Florida Aqua Farm publish a book on live food culturing.  TFH and Tetra 
have large books on various live foods.  Those are your best bets.

As for "experience": on my patio, in light shade, I have a 5 gal bucket
of salt marsh water from a road-side ditch on the North shore of the
San Francisco Bay.  It's full of brine shrimp and has been active since
June or July.  Now and then enough water evaporates for the salts to
start forming a crust.  I add some fresh water to the bucket then,
usually the dirty tank drain-offs.  There is at most 1 oz of brine
shrimp there at the top of the "bloom".  I go through approximately 1/2
oz of brine shrim a day to feed my fish, so it would last me a day or
two if I harvested it.

The bucket is not aerated and is fed by occasional dumps of nutrients
from the added water and the algae recycling the nutrients released by the
dead shrimp.  If it were harvested, the feeding would have to be a lot
more frequent.

To have a stable food source for my fish, I would need a 70-100 gal culture
container, frequently fed and probably actively filtered.

>I am also interested in 
>species of feeder shrimp that would work for fresh water. 

Grass shrimp, camel shrimp, gammarus and a few others live in fresh water.
culturing them is not as easy as the brine shrimp.

>Can brine >shrimp tolerate fresh water? How much salt do they need? (minimum)

Brine shrimp live in fresh water for an hour or so, long enough to be eaten
by the fish.  They require at least the full strength sea water, though 
they do much better in a water somewhat more saline than that.  Brine shrimp
live comfortably in the Great Salt Lake and in the salt evaporation fields
of the SF Bay.

Brine shrimp are not the best nutrition for fresh water fishes.  Insect 
larvae, ants, flies and mosquitos, as well as fresh water crustaceans and
various worms make a much better source of food.
-- 
Don't blame me, I voted Libertarian.

Oleg Kiselev                                             oleg@veritas.com
VERITAS Software                           ...!{apple|uunet}!veritas!oleg
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [M][B] Help & questions after 1st week cycling 1st tank
From: brian@picasso.icd.teradyne.com (Brian Hunter)
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 23:25:05 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Teradyne, Inc. San Jose CA

In article <1ee9suINNgls@morrow.stanford.edu> AS.CCB@forsythe.stanford.edu (Christopher Bekins) writes:
>To Todd:  Dana's correct about keeping the gravel filterbed
>clean, but don't clean the whole thing at one time; only clean
>about 1/3 of the filterbed at a time when you do your water

When I clean the gravel I use a diatom filter.  I clean the Entire
bed as completely as I can.  I have never had Any problem
with the biologic filter afterwards.

>
>To fellow newsgroupers:  What about Todd's original question?
>How long could a typical marine UGF stand a power outage?
>How would you recover from, say, an 8 - 12 hour outage?  Do
>an immediate radical water change?  Do a total filterbed rinse
>(as described above) and then a 100% water change?  Anyone
>had any experiences with power outages from which you successfully
>recovered?
>
>Cheers,
>Christopher (week three of tank cycle - 5th tank start-up in 3 years)

Well, I forgot to turn my pumps back on after feeding a few weeks ago.
(A timer to be installed soon!)  The pump was off untill I got home
from work which was something greater than 8 hours with no problem
at all.

I will point out this is a reef tank with a low load (only 3 fish).
A heavily loaded tank might not fare as well.

Brian





Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: dbs@hprnd.rose.hp.com (Dave Sheehy)
Subject: Re: (F) African cichlid questions
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 19:40:35 GMT
Organization: HP - Systems Technology Division
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.8 PL6]

Ross Livingston (livings@unislc.uucp) wrote:
: I currently have 4 Hap. Obliquedens (1 male, 3 females) and 2 Hap
: 'Pearly' calvus (sex ??) in a 55g with w/d filter.

I think the "Hap 'Pearly' Calvus" are really Lamprologus 'Pearly' Calvus.

: My first question:  How do you sex juvenile calvus?  They are just over
: 1 inch long now.  The pet shop guy said the only way he knows to tell

In the genus Lamprologus the females tend to be smaller but otherwise similarly
colored to the males. I think that's true of the Calvus.

: He also said the males are aggressive and the females of this species are
: quit docile.  Any opinions anyone?  Anyway, one of mine is quite
: aggressive but only towards the other calvus (of coarse the male oblique
: is over twice his size).

Aggressiveness is a relative term with africans :-). Among africans the L.
Calvus do tend to be less aggressive (compared to mbunas). Being territorial
there will always be some quarreling going on especially between individuals
of the same species.

: Next question:  The female Oblique's (especially two in particular) are
: really going the rounds with each other.  They sit and fight until the male
: comes and starts chasing one or the other around (they don't seem too
: interested yet, they're only 1" long).  Is this going to go on forever, or
: will they eventually decide who's boss and leave it at that?  Should I get
: rid of one of the two?

This is characteristic pecking order behavior and as long as no extensive 
damage is done it is nothing to worry about. 

: One more question:  How much salt should I add to my water for species
: from lakes Tanganikya and Victoria?  Also, I've got my water at about 78
: degrees F.  Is this ok?  Thanks.

Per 10 gallons of water I add:

	1. 1 T Rock Salt (uniodized)
	2. 1 T Epsom Salt (magnesium sulfate)
	3. 1 t Baking soda (sodium bicarbonate)
: Ross Livingston, Unisys Corp.  |  Phone   (801) 594-6217

Dave Sheehy

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria,sci.aquaria
From: oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Subject: Re: [F]African Root in tank causing water discoloration.
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 09:29:26 GMT

In article <1edneqINNg67@transfer.stratus.com> scol@scottsdale.az.stratus.com (Scott Colbath) writes:
>Any suggestions on how to clear up the tea color my water has from the African 
>Root I put in the tank. I have added more carbon to my second nature filter  
>with no luck.

ues a better grade of carbon.  It's the only way of getting the tannins out
other than simply doing large and regular water changes.
-- 
Oleg Kiselev at home			...use the header to find the path
From: head5181@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Building an Aquarium
Date: 17 Nov 92 17:39:21 -0600
Organization: University of Northern Iowa


I was wondering if anyone out there would happen to have any information, or
suggestions about building an aquarium. I am thinking about a 50 or 55 gal.
tank. Or if anyone  is interested in selling one. :) 
Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Rich-
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Subject: Re: brine shrimp
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1992 21:29:24 GMT

In article <1ek1j8INNlq6@gvgspd.gvg.tek.com> pjs@gvgdsd.GVG.TEK.COM (Peter J. Stonard) writes:
>I read recently that a form of brine shrimp can be found in Mono Lake,

Yes, it's harvested for the aquarium industry.

>I plan to go there to take a look next spring, maybe take a net and 
>bucket along, too.

Most brine shrimp sources have exclusive collection rights assigned to major
fish food industry companies.  The recent spat of 2 major brands over the
San Francisco Bay salt evaporation fields suggests that the tempers are a
bit heated where it comes to someone coveting another's collection territory.

If you want to harvest there, do it in the evening, when you will be less
likely to get harrassed by the exclusive harvesting licensee's employees.

>Anyone know if the shrimp are suitable for aquarium fish? 

They are as far as I know.

-- 
Oleg Kiselev at home			...use the header to find the path
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: jengagne@next03cville.wam.umd.edu (Jenny Lynne Gagne)
Subject: {M} [M] (M)   Distilled water to buy without copper?
Reply-To: Jurassic Park as movie
Organization: Workstations at Maryland, University of Maryland, College Park
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 17:42:14 GMT

I'm planning to use distilled water when mixing up the salt for my 10g  
mini tank with a shrimp.  I've heard about how some brands have lots of  
copper in them...which will hurt inverts...
Can anyone reccomend copper-free brands?  Or point out ones to avoid?

Thanks,
jengagne
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: Carlos Eberhardt <eber0005@student.tc.umn.edu>
Subject: Induced voltages
X-Xxmessage-Id: <A72FC36532016526@dialup-slip-1-38.gw.umn.edu>
X-Xxdate: Wed, 18 Nov 92 09:54:45 GMT
Organization:  University of Minnesota
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d12
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 15:57:08 GMT

	I recently read in a response to a post that induced voltages are
believed to be the cause of hole-in -the-head. I am assuming that these
voltages are caused by the electric motors in powerheads and power
filters (by the coils used to drive the motors?). 
	Is this a good assumption? If so, then what is the theory behind
grounding a tank? (I guess this may be more of a question for an
electrical engineer, but aquarium folks often end up being biology smart,
so why not eletrical?).
	Also, is there a way to build your own grounding device? I've heard one
can be bought for about $30, but if I can build one cheaper, I'd like to.
	Responses directly to me are preferred, but if this topic seems
interesting enough, you may want to post to the board.
	Thanks in advance for any responses!

Carlos Eberhardt    -------->  eber0005@student.tc.umn.edu