HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks)
Subject: Re: Freewheeling Engines
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 14:38:00 GMT

In article <1992Dec18.075354.12050@mr.med.ge.com> hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987) writes:
>Thomas A. Brunner (tabg2553@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu) wrote:
>: 
>: In summary, I would suspect that most engines with timing belts are
>than that, you pay the price for the poor engineering.
>
>Timing belts are quieter, a LOT cheaper, and last the length of time
>that most new-car buyers own the car.  BUT, if you don't change them 
>every 40-50,000 miles, you are asking for a meltdown.  
>
>Solution?  If you're planning to keep a car for a while, get one with
>a chain, or change the belt whenever reccomended.  Chains can break
>too (so I've heard, never seen one), but not nearly as often.
>
Often times, when a timing chain "breaks", it's not the chain, but the 
camshaft gear. American V8s were/are notorious for putting in cam gears
with NYLON teeth instead of steel. Supposedly, they made the engine 
quieter than using a steel gear. I suppose they're right - the engine is 
_real_ quiet when it's sitting on the side of the road with all the cam 
gear teeth sitting in the oil pan. (yes, I speak from personal experience)

I would recommend changing the timing chain & gears at about 100k if you
have a nylon tooth gear. Change over to a steel gear, and you'll probably
never have any more trouble.

>Remember....."Ford <and most others> Has a Cheaper Idea."
>
 
Ted Brooks
 ______________________________________________________________________
| Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are my own, and do not reflect    |
| those of my employer. Advice is free, but you get what you pay for.  |
|                               ________                               |
|                         _____|  1955  |_______                       |
|                        /      Chevrolet      /                       |
|                       /______  BelAir  _____/                        |
|                              |________|                              |
|______________________________________________________________________|
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jbm@eos.arc.nasa.gov (Jeffrey Mulligan)
Subject: Re: Oilpan Gasket in Corolla
Keywords: Gasket, Silicon, oilpan
Organization: NASA Ames Research Center
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 21:38:15 GMT

brooks@mcnc.org (Theodore Edwin Brooks Jr) writes:

>Try tightening the bolts on your oil pan first. It's free, and relatively
>painless. Don't overtighten them though, or they'll break. Just snug will
>do.

Snug is right, but breaking the bolts is pretty unlikely.
What happens more often with overtightening of oilpans (and valve covers)
is that the pan deforms, making it impossible to ever get a good seal.

-- 

	Jeff Mulligan (jbm@vision.arc.nasa.gov)
	NASA/Ames Research Ctr., MS 262-2, Moffett Field CA, 94035-1000
	(415) 604-3745
From: markb@wc.novell.com (Mark S. Burnham)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: GTV6 question
Date: 14 Dec 92 22:57:20 GMT
Organization: Novell Inc.
X-Xxdate: Mon, 14 Dec 92 14:55:45 GMT
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d12

I've heard that early GTV6's had brass valve guides that were NOT very 
durable. Does anyone know when Alfa switched to iron guides?  I'm 
thinking of buying an '82 (it's got 90K miles) and would like to know 
if I'll need to have the guides replaced.  The person who owns it know 
hasn't hadany problems with them in 70K miles, so I assume they've been 
changed, but I'm curious.

Any information would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

- Mark
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mark S. Burnham (markb@wc.novell.com) AMA#668966  DoD#0747 '90 Ninja 750
------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: alan@ikkyu.Eng.Sun.COM (Alan Marr)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Hydrogen Re: Implosion Engines... feasible?
Date: 12 Dec 1992 11:15:52 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems
Distribution: world
Reply-To: alan@ikkyu.Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: ikkyu

In article 12231@mtu.edu, vetter@mtu.edu (STEVEN J. VETTER) writes:

	3.  In order to carry enough Hdrogen fuel in
	    a tank, it must be in liquid form which is more dangerous
	    to store than gasoline, and also more difficult to put into
	    whatever storage tank is used.

Wrong.  The hydrogen is safely stored as metal hydrides that release
the hydrogen upon the application of gentle heat.

	4.  Hydrogen powered engines don`t exactly have
	    that neck-snapping acceleration, but more on par with a
	    Yugo.

Not necessarily.  Mazda is road testing (or is about to) a hydrogen
powered twin rotor engine, the HR-X:  998cc, 100 HP.  In a
reciprocating internal combustion engine, H2 has a low flash point
prone to backfiring and faulty ignition.  The rotary engine is more
suitable.

  BMW and Mercedes are currently, and have been for years working on
  Hydrogen powered vehicles.

Mazda is sharing research info with Mercedes-Benz.

Alan.


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bowmanj@csn.org (Jerry Bowman)
Subject: Re: Distributer Swapping...
Organization: University of Colorado Boulder, OCS
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 18:17:51 GMT

In article <Carr-C10973-121292140408@145.1.92.116> Carr-C10973@email.comm.mot.com (Eric Carr) writes:
>Does anyone know if a small block HEI distributer will fit in a big block?
>
>                             
>
>                         _________                                       
>               ________ /  '67   /_________
>              /    Caprice Sport Coupe    /         
>             /      396cid     365hp     /   See the USA in an old
>Chevrolet                                                                  
Haven't actully tried it but I,ve read that they will >                                  
>            /________   USA-1  _________/         
>                    /_________/
>                                      
>                                             
>
From: george@mech.seas.upenn.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: HP-Torque of chevy V-6?
Date: 12 Dec 92 20:31:40 GMT
Organization: University of Pennsylvania, Mechanical Engineering


:
:Key question:  Does the car trailer have brakes?  If not, I would
:definitely go with a full-sized p/u.
:

in some states a 4500lb trailer would be required to have brakes
of some sort.


--
  /   george jefferson
\/ *  george@mech.seas.upenn.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rzottola@umassmed.UMMED.EDU (Ralph Zottola)
Subject: Help with engine diagnosis
Organization: Univ. Mass. Med. Ctr., Worcester
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 15:42:01 GMT

I need help diagnosing an engine problem.  I have a 1987 Chrysler
LeBaron with a 2.2L turbo engine.  When the engine is hot, it hesitates
badly with normal acceleration.  It is fine cold, at idle hot or cold,
with heavy acceleration, or at speeds above 55mph.  It seems as if it
cuts out to shift when rpm is below 2500.  It does this in neutral as
well if I race the engine.  I had the fuel pump and filter replaced one
month ago.  The timing was also done at that time.

Any suggestions as to where I should begin to look?
--ralph
-- 
Ralph J. Zottola			Graduate Student
UMMC/Prog. Mol. Med.			Voice: (508)856-6881
373 Plantation St.			Fax:   (508)856-4289
Worcester, MA 01605			Internet: rzottola@umassmed.ummed.edu
From: Larry.Mc.Donald@ofa123.fidonet.org
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: torque curve questio
X-Sender: newtout 0.02 Nov 17 1992
Date: 17 Dec 92  12:17:04

 jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com 
   (James W. Swonger) sez:

> Back when I bothered to read Car and Driver they used to print some
> curves. Some of the hot rod mags do it for hot-rod-type engines. Did
> the idea of  going to the library occur to you while waiting for an
> answer? -- 

   Sarcastic answer, but thanks. Yes, I head to the library 
before I ask any question. I've even delved through all the SAE 
publications they had there (libraries I've gone to are all five 
public libraries within striking distance from here, two college 
libs and one university's) but I too tend to assume that most 
people could find their own answers (ooh, look at all the correct 
usages of the various spellings of two, too and to!) if they 
would only look. I've even looked through issues of C&D, but 
didn't see any in the sampling I looked at. Since I'm not 
interested in 'hot rod' engines and those types seldom know what 
they are doing anyway, I avoided those.
   Mostly I'm interested in engines that could power something 
like a 1-1/2 ton flat bed or a motorhome (since those are the 
things I have) around decently. The motor home has a 318 Dodge in 
it that could develop decent torque if you're willing to rev it 
way above where I consider to be redline for that engine and the 
1-1/2 ton truck is a '30 Ford AA with a 200 cid four cylinder 
with a really long stroke and monstrous low end torque that I'd 
have to load a 460 in there to equal, but the old 200 engine will 
only rev to 2800 or so and it needs to turn 4500 to propel the 
truck to decent freeway speed with it's gearing and no overdrive. 
Since the two vehicles are essentially the same for load and 
duty, I'd like to get decent torque curves on available engines 
to see what I'd like to load in there. I'd love to just load a 
Ford 300 six into the 'AA', but I'm afraid that the engine space 
is about 12 inches too short.
   Well, thank you for the tip on C&D. Really, I had done so much 
research on this that I'd just about given up and just wanted 
someone to steer me in the right direction.



    

... Larry.Mc.Donald, N6ZMB, Fullerton, California!  <cough, cough>
___ Blue Wave/QWK v2.10

--- Maximus 2.00
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Do SPOILERS Really Work???
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 15 Dec 92 16:59:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> For example... My car is a 1982 Golf GTi and has a flat front. Now I
-> think the car looks nice, but it is not an aerodynamic design. It has

 A flat nose may not look aerodynamic, but as long as the corners are
rounded a bit it does better than you'd think.  The bulbous rears you
see on many cars are a complete waste, though.  Once your panel diverges
more than seven or eight degrees below line-of-flow the air usually
detaches and becomes turbulent.

 There are many books on aerodynamics, several specifically on auto
aerodynamics.  Your library may have some.

 BTW, race cars don't always use spoilers to generate downforce.  You
might remember my message yesterday where I described how spoilers can
enhance directional stability.

 As an example, Ford designed the GT40 race car with assistance from
their wind tunnel.  The coefficient of drag was very low.  Early
experiments showed the car became a bit light in front at speed, so a
small spoiler was fitted; just enough to kill the lift, since any more
would increase drag.  When you're crowding 200mph, every little bit
helps.

 Later, Ford lost one car and driver during high speed testing.  The
engineers had checked the lift/drag figures from straight ahead, but
nobody had thought to check diagonal airflow.  A strong gust of wind hit
the car as it came over a slight rise, and the change in airflow forced
the body from negative to positive lift - the nose of the car lifted
from the road, caught the air, and the car flipflopped.

 Back when we raced Monzilla we were a little worried, seeing as we
would hit over 150mph on the back straight at Almyra.  Fortunately the
course is run in the dead of summer (they don't call it the "Brain Fry"
for nothing!) and there's no wind to speak of.  Considering the car's
shape - more or less a brick sitting on a shoebox - we really didn't
have anything to worry about.
                                                                                                                          
From: mtc@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Mark Cousins)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 19:01:04 GMT
Subject: Re: Gasoline differences?
Organization: HP General Systems Division
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

In rec.autos.tech, kenny@osf.org (Kenneth Crudup) writes:

>water flow- I don't grab the brake booster line!). I run the engine at 2k
>rpm, and lower the other end of my line so that it just touches the surface
>of the water in the container (use about 1/2 quart). The engine vacuum will
>suck the water up, and I regulate the flow, letting a little more in, but

I've heard of something similar, but they used brake fluid.  Comments?

>I assume your Honda has carburation; I have to find a mani vac line 'cuz I
>have fuel injection, but you should be able to slowly (a trickle) dribble
>water right down the carb throat.

Yes -- the engine is carburated.  I'll give this a try.  Will any of the junk
loosened up and blown out the exhaust harm the cat-conv or anything?

Mark
--
Mark Cousins                Hewlett-Packard Co.        mtc@hpsemc.cup.hp.com
HP-UX VAB programs    19055 Pruneridge Ave., MS 46T5
(408) 447-4659             Cupertino, CA  95014          FAX: (408) 447-4364
From: harmons@.WV.TEK.COM (Harmon Sommer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Mazda rotary in a Europa
Date: 12 Dec 92 23:29:59 GMT

Followup-To: 
Distribution: 
Organization: /usr/ens/etc/organization
Keywords: 


>pretty well a no-brainer to just replace the whole thing - no reason to
>carve up good Lotus parts, which are probably marginal anyway.

Was it Colin Chapman who said "If a part doesn't break once during a racing
season it is overdesigned"?



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hemant@cbnewse.cb.att.com (hemant.b.bhatt)
Subject: timing belt? chain on sentra
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1992 03:21:11 GMT


I have 90 Sentra. Its reached 60,000 miles. Is it
necessary to have timing belt-chain change? Manual
mentions nothing about it.      
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: stevenh@cbnewsk.cb.att.com (steven.t.heinsius)
Subject: Re: Jaguar XJ-12 is a Dog?
Organization: AT&T
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 20:08:57 GMT

From article <92349.125018KXN2@psuvm.psu.edu>, by Karl Nordstrom <KXN2@psuvm.psu.edu>:
> wb8foz@skybridge.SCL.CWRU.Edu (David Lesher) says:
>>
>>The Wall Street Journal had an article about memorable dogs.
>>As I recall ... the XJ-12.
> 
> A dog?  That engine produces more hp and torque than a '84-'9? Corvette!


and its smooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooth !!!

Steve
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: "mike knox" <mike.knox@canrem.com>
Subject: what does 4x4 mean?
Reply-To: "mike knox" <mike.knox@canrem.com>
Organization: Canada Remote Systems
Distribution: rec
Date: 19 Dec 92 19:40:43 EST

 
In Message-ID: <1992Dec18.185118.452#nosc.mil>,
koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz) writes:
 
>>I hope this is not a stupid question, but I have been wondering exactly
>>where the term 4x4 (four by four) came from.
 
>so -- 'A'x'B' is interpreted as:  'A'-total-wheels with 'B'-wheels-powered.
>and as alluded to above, the designation has military origins.
 
I had wondered if that might be it, but it could have been 4-speed or
4-barrel or anything else with a '4' in it!
 
I'll bet a lot of people didn't know the origins of this term; Thanks!
 
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Mike Knox                  |     Fido: 1:229/15
    Brampton, Ontario          | Internet: mike.knox@canrem.com
    CANADA                     | RelayNet: ->CRS  (Public Key: 22319)
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

 * DeLuxe2/386 1.25 #4782 * 
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kenny@osf.org (Kenneth Crudup)
Subject: Re: Oilpan Gasket in Corolla
Keywords: Gasket, Silicon, oilpan
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 18:30:09 GMT

In article <1992Dec14.193104.13958@cbnews.cb.att.com>
yp@cbnews.cb.att.com (yagnesh.pathak) writes:

>I have a 85 Toyota Corolla and have been noticing some oil drops in my 
>garage lately. Took it to a Goodyear guy and he said that "It needs a 
>oilpan gasket."

>I called on dealer and he quotes $19 for the part (oilpan gasket) and some 
>$140 for labor. When I call this other place, i was told that this car 
>does not have a oilpan gasket - all it has is silicon!!!

>If it is silicon, this involves removing the oilpan, scrub the old silicon
>and put in new silicon compound. How much work is this? I guess removing
>oilpan means draining all the oil also. 

First, if it's a high-mileage car, and it's just dripping a little oil (fifty-
cent piece sized drops or smaller), my advice is to just forget it. Put down
a carpet if the stains are bothering you; it's just not worth the hassle. All
that's happening is that oil is leaking out at the junction between your
block and oilpan while you drive, and when you stop, it pools together and
starts to drip. NBFD.

Gasketing material seems to vary on parts availability, and whom you ask. My
Merkur shop manual reccommends what you call "silicon", it's actually
"silicone", and the "true" name is "Silicone Room-Temperature Vulcanizing
Gasket Material", or "RTV" for short. However, there is a gasket available,
presumably for "problem" cars where the RTV doesn't work that well due to
pan/block irregularities.

Most of the labor involved is because most of the time, the oilpan is blocked
by things like your steering rack or steering arms or suspension components,
etc. which have to be removed and replaced. Getting the pan itself off is 
just a matter of removing a few bolts. 

Yes, getting the oil out of the block is step one. You'll get an oil
change as part of the bargain (if you don't, change mechanics).

	-Kenny

-- 
Kenny Crudup, Contractor, OSF DCE QA
OSF, 11 Cambridge Center, Cambridge, MA 02142	+1 617 621 7306
kenny@osf.osf.org			OSF has nothing to do with this post.
	  Religion: The longest-running gag ever played on Mankind.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ssave@ole.cdac.com (The Devil Reincarnate)
Subject: Re: Advice needed on heater problem
Organization: CDAC, WA
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 23:12:49 GMT

In article <1g2g8kINN66q@uwm.edu> rstoffel@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Robert C Stoffel) writes:
>I have a 1985 Mazda GLC that I bought back in April of this year, so I

>The problem is this.  I don't get enough heat in the car when it's moving,

>however, usually never goes more than 1/3 the way up, and less now that it's
>turning much colder here in Wisconsin.  The only time recently that my car
>has warmed up to my satisfaction is when I was sitting in a drive-thru with
>my car running for about 15 minutes.
>rstoffel@csd4.csd.uwm.edu
>

 Your thermostat is stuck open. It is supposed to be shut (not allowing
any coolant to circulate) when the engine is cold, and open slowly to 
maintain a good operating temp.  Change it. Also, while you are at it,
filter your coolant through a fine cloth to catch all the gunk which 
probably stuck in the thermostat.

-S
ssave@ole.cdac.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond)
Subject: Re: Oil Priming System
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 92 06:51:35 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.

vetter@mtu.edu (STEVEN J. VETTER) writes:



>Beautiful "Blue-Blooded" GM praise (I suppose Chrysler Corp. too in a way)!!!  
>I should have known all along that all cars are designed to last forever, barring
>cruel and unusual use by those of us who buy and drive them.  I never realized that
>there was indeed *no improvements* that could ever be made so as to extend the life
>of any of those vital parts.  I humbly thank you for showing me where I erred.  

Too bad you were running your mouth instead of listening.  I've always
marveled at those who think they're going to outguess a mfr's entire 
engineering team and improve the reliability of an engine by blindly 
bolting on gimmicks out of a catalog.  It is, of course, mandatory in
these cases to do no testing before or after.

He told you exactly how to extend the life of your engine - change the
damn oil filter and keep the oil clean and conditioned.  Note he
didn't say change the oil every time it turns dark.  If you're an average
driver, changing the oil filter and oil on regular schedules will
do it.  If you subject your vehicle to extreme service such as towing,
spend your money on an oil cooler - but only after you verify the need
by testing.

I have a 75 Datsun Z with 300,000 miles, an 79 El Camino with
150k,  a BMW 635CSI with 90k, a 68 Plymouth Fury with 160k
(whose previous owner did things the way I do.), a Camry with
100k and my mom's Ford truck with 200k miles.  All are oil tight
and quiet.  All have had their oil changed every 6-10,000 miles
depending on service conditions with an oil filter change midway
through. If you think you can schlock some pump on the side of
your engine and beat this record, go right ahead.  Or better
yet, send me the money for the  pump and follow what I and the
other fellow tell you works.   We'll all be happy. 

John
-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC               |Interested in high performance mobility?  
Performance Engineering Magazine(TM) | Interested in high tech and computers? 
Marietta, Ga                         | Send ur snail-mail address to 
jgd@dixie.com                        | perform@dixie.com for a free sample mag
Need Usenet public Access in Atlanta?  Write Me for info on Dixie.com.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: Ken Wilkens <wilkens@oursun.med.yale.edu>
Subject: Re: HP-Torque of chevy V-6?
Organization: Yale University
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1a2
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 13:09:22 GMT

well I have an 89 S-10 blazer 4.3l and the engine is rated at 160 hp and
230 ft Lbs. I belive the max towing capacity was 4000lbs, I saw it in the
owners manual and/or dealer lit. on it. I know there is an optional 4.3l
now that is 200 hp (torque unknown) which probably has a better towing
capacity.

Ken
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech