HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: mcitron@phad.hsc.usc.edu (Mark Citron)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: orchids
Date: 23 Nov 1992 18:13:12 -0800
Organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA
NNTP-Posting-Host: phad.hsc.usc.edu


From:     Emil Bogenmann  (EBogenmann)                             
I am posting this for someone else. Please respond to Emil.
knowledge of orchids, how to propagate and what needs to be done   
to be  a sucessful hobby grower.                                   
Please contact me at my phad address or at home at 818/246 7417    


Emil Bogenmann  
EBogenmann%smtpgate@chlais.usc.edu

-- 
Mark Citron
mark@neurosci.usc.edu
From: mnb@voodoo.boeing.com (Mike Burr)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Christmas tree alternative?
Date: 19 Nov 92 03:15:16 GMT
Organization: Boeing Graphics project, Bellevue WA

In article <1992Nov18.073033.9311@henson.cc.wwu.edu> mturner@henson.cc.wwu.edu (Mark Turner) writes:
>Another Xmas tree alternative that my in-laws used for several years was
>to construct a wire frame covered with pine cones scavenged from the
>forests.  You've got the pine, and you haven't cut a tree.  You can make
>it any size you want to collect enough cones for.  And it could be
>collapsible to store in a big plastic bag for next year.
>

Along this line of thought.  Here in the PNW we usually have at least 
one good storm around xmas.  My wife and I go out after the storm and
collect downed branches from the fir trees.  We clean, trim, and 
attach them to a piece of lattice and ta-da... instant, inexpensive,
guilt-free, good smelling, xmas tree.  The only draw back is that 
it can dry-out faster than a real tree. So be careful if you try it.


-- 
Michael Burr  Boeing Computer Services, Bellevue WA
              Email:mnb@voodoo.ca.boeing.com
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: rim@csadfa.cs.adfa.oz.au (Bob McKay)
Subject: Re: List of cold climate gums
Organization: Australian Defence Force Academy, Canberra, Australia
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 23:29:15 GMT

pharvey@quack.sac.ca.us (Paul Harvey) writes:

>I've added temp data from Sunset Guide to Western Gardens and HortusIII.
>As you can see, it don't get all that cold in Oz.

I found these fascinating, partly because they're inconsistent in some 
significant cases with my own experiences. It may relate partly to the 
particular clones that are used in the US (you have some particularly 
beautiful forms of some of the dry country Eucs that I haven't seen here). 
I've annotated below the ones that seem problematical to me - any comments?
(I've expressed my opinions fairly baldly below, but they should be read in
the context of the above disclaimer about clones - I just don't want to have to
keep repeating it)

>>E. pauciflora           Snow Gum		10-15oF
This species is very variable, but there are certainly forms that can go 
colder than this.
>>E. stellulata           Black Sally		12-18oF
This is one of the two most cold tolerant gums I know of. I don't have any
temperature data handy (though I'll try to check it out tonight), but I find
these limits hard to believe (and unlike the previous species, it's hard to
explain it in terms of species variability, since it's not one of the more
variable species)

>Sunset also has the following "hardy" gums:
>E. macrandra	Long Flowered Marlock	8-12oF
This seems optimistic, though I don't have actual data
>E. niphophila	Snow Gum	0-10oF
This is believable.
>E. rhodantha			8-12oF
>E. sideroxylon	Red Ironbark	10-15oF
These are the most problematical for me. Around Canberra, sideroxylon appears
to be temperature limited (as a wild species) and rhodantha is difficult even
as a protected garden specimen. Contrast this with pauciflora and stellulata
above, which grow quite happily in the wild, 3000 - 4000' higher and can't
compete around Canberra (minima around 20F screen, 13F grass). The rhodantha
value is particularly surprising - if there really are varieties of this
superb small tree that can tolerate such low temps, they would be worth a 
small fortune in the local horticulture trade here (but I guess I could never
get them through quarantine)
    Cheers
      Bob McKay

-- 
Bob McKay		   	Phone:	+61 6 268 8169	    fax: +61 6 268 8581
Dept. Computer Science		Internet:	rim@csadfa.cs.adfa.oz.au
ADFA, Northcott Dve 		UUCP:...!uunet!munnari!csadfa.cs.adfa.oz.au!rim
Campbell ACT 2600 AUSTRALIA	ARPA:	rim%csadfa.cs.adfa.oz.au@uunet.uu.net
From: mulvihil@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Lawrence Mulvihill)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Paulownia Rustlers
Date: 17 Nov 92 17:42:56 GMT
Reply-To: mulvihil@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Lawrence Mulvihill)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.gardens, cl27111@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Christopher  Lindsey) writes:
>
>        If I remember correctly, Paulownia wood is used for making jewelry
>boxes, small dressers, etc.  Apparently, the wood doesn't warp with temperature
>changes or if it gets wet, so drawers will always open as easily as when
>they were first made.  I don't know what type of veneer you'd get out of it
>though...  And since it grows so fast, I wonder how structurally sound it is.
>

Some trees in the D.C. area have been taken.  Apparently the wood 
changes color depending on time of year and some trees which were
cut down proved to be worth less than the
thieves expected. There was an article
in one of the local papers about a year ago.  This isn't a
secret operation in the dead of night.  The typical thieves
appear to be legit trimmers/removers.  When the local gov't,
or landowner, finds out that the tree is gone, no one has
a license number or description of the truck.
From: jhb@calmasd.prime.com (Jim Bishop)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: spiders
Date: 18 Nov 92 20:35:40 GMT
Organization: -

In article <lgiq9fINNhai@exodus.Eng.Sun.COM>, 
jaya@encinitas.Eng.Sun.COM (Jaya Holla) writes:
> 
> I live in sunny California with screens on all windows I still have spiders in
> my house. Any tips on how to get rid of them will be greatly appreciated.
> Please email as I have gotten very busy at work and don not read this
> newsgroup as much as I used to. (TIA)
> 
> As an aside: three years back the house was fumigated and I did not see
> any spiders for a while. Now they are back.
> 

Unexciting (except for the chasing them down part) but a plain old
vacuum cleaner works great for removing spiders from my house.  Bear
in mind though that the spiders wouldn't be there if there wasn't
something to eat.

Frequent vacuuming of the carpet also cuts down on invasions of
another major So. Cal. pest - cat fleas.

Jim
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: kathleen@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Kathleen Much)
Subject: Re: Are my carnations dead?
Organization: Center for Advanced Study in the Behavioral Sciences
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1992 03:45:10 GMT

In article <1992Nov23.154351.23078@hou.amoco.com> ztac18@hou.amoco.com writes:
>I got some carnations through mail order a couple of months ago.  I planted
>them promptly in some nice soil.  When planting, many looked kind of like
>greens that you leave in the fridge too long, kind of slimey.  I called the
>seller after about a week, and they assured me that they'll be up in the
>Spring.
>
>Well, there are about three out of the several dozen plants now that appear
>to have any life left in them.  My question:  Am I due a refund?
>
>Pertinent info:  Houston climate (and, actually, it's been pretty good
>growing weather lately), no bug problems.

Carnations generally like cooler weather than Houston.  They rarely
make it through a summer.  The slime problem sounds like they may have
frozen in shipping.  If you don't get growth by Christmas, I think you
should ask for a refund.  

-- 
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Kathleen Much, Editor		|E-mail: kathleen@casbs.stanford.EDU
CASBS, 202 Junipero Serra Blvd.	|Phone: (415) 321-2052
Stanford, CA  94305		|Fax: (415) 321-1192
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: cl27111@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Christopher  Lindsey)
Subject: Re: Paulownia Rustlers
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 14:35:34 GMT

karen@athena.cs.uga.edu (Karen Snetselaar) writes:

>>                       Beware of Paulownia Rustlers

>Hmmm wonder if it would be worthwhile to switch from pine to 
>paulownia plantations--help balance trade w/Japan by supplying
>wood to make geta (what else is it used for?) and take some
>pressure off the more slow-growing tropical hardwoods.   

>Karen

	If I remember correctly, Paulownia wood is used for making jewelry
boxes, small dressers, etc.  Apparently, the wood doesn't warp with temperature
changes or if it gets wet, so drawers will always open as easily as when
they were first made.  I don't know what type of veneer you'd get out of it
though...  And since it grows so fast, I wonder how structurally sound it is.

Christopher Lindsey -- Dept. of Landscape Architecture, Univ. of Illinois

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: pharvey@quack.sac.ca.us (Paul Harvey)
Subject: Re: Non-flowering citrus tree
Organization: The Duck Pond public unix: +1 408 249 9630, log in as 'guest'.
Date: 21 Nov 1992 02:48:08 UTC

In article <BxwzAG.I05@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu> 
jereese@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (jean reese) writes:
>My husband has a grapefruit tree he grew from a seed 12 years ago. It's
>pretty tall now, and healthy, but does not flower and never has. (Therefore,
>no fruit.) We've given it fertilizer and left it outside over the summers,
>but no response. Where did we go wrong?

1. Water
Add sufficient water such that some drains from bottom and all soil
appears to be wet. Then wait. The top soil should dry out and eventually
you should get a sign from the plant, mild leaf wilt, that it needs
water again. This mild drought stress is important, it will incourage
the plant to flower. Repeat this water cycle again. In other words,
water only when the plant needs it and water heavily. Citrus is very
drought tolerant and will eventually drops its leaves under severe
stress and grow new ones when the water returns.

2. Sun
Full Sun, or as much as you can get.

3. Fertilizer
Don't. Unless you see signs of nutrient deficiency when the leaves start
becoming yellowish. Too much fertilizer forces growth and no flowering.

4. Winter Chill
Many citrus are pseudo-Mediterranean plants and perform poorly in the
tropics or indoor climates. Cool winter temps will aid flowering.
Probably in the fifties is ideal but a cool, above freezing basement is
much better that a 68oF living space.

5. Bark injury
Making a spiral cut with a knife around a major branch will restrict the
flow of nutrients from the leaves to the roots because this flow is
mostly in the green cambium layer between the bark and the sapwood of
the tree. Nutrients can still flow from the roots to the leaves via the
sapwood and the bark injury will heal over in time, but this trick often
convinces trees to flower since they get the signal that the roots are
happy, more or less. Warning, be careful and experiment first on a minor
limb because you may kill it also.
From: winner@Apple.COM (Stephanie Winner)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: greenhouses
Date: 18 Nov 92 18:42:45 GMT
Organization: Apple Computer Inc., Cupertino, CA

In article <9880041@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM> ewg@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Ethan Gannett) writes:
>In rec.gardens, account@mtu.edu (Eleanore Kyllonen) writes:
>
>> We are thinking about adding a greenhouse and have sent for and recieved the
>> "Janco" information.  EXPENSIVE!  Any information from others who have built
>> or researched and planned but haven't yet built a greenhouse would be most
>> helpful.  We live in a rural area so we don't have access to dealers.  The closest market with showroom or dealer displays would be about 4+ hours away.  We
>> are looking at something attached to our house that would double as a sun room
>> and would need to be heated in winter.  Winters here in northern Michigan are 
>> very cold (30/-30 degrees) with hundreds of inches of snow.
>
>We have a "Four Seasons" 2 story greenhouse attached to our house.  Since we
>bought the house with the greenhouse already attached, I can't tell you how
>much it cost.  I like the design except for the window shades which are poorly
>engineered.  I am told by the previous owner that this was the first 2 story
>greenhouse that the company produced, so perhaps they have improved their
>design by now.
>
We had a Four Seasons greenhouse installed 3 years ago (San Francisco
area) and it ended up costing $100/squ ft.  There were some hidden
costs which we hadn't expected.  The wooden beams came unfinished and
we had to finish them ourselves before it could be installed.  You
will also need to pay for repairing the damage (stucco in our case)
to the house where the greenhouse attaches.  Other costs which were
anticipated are the foundation, building permit, flooring material
(tile), blinds (very expensive and not included in the $100 figure),
and baseboard and other moulding.  They do have less expensive models
now, some which you can even install yourself.

If I had it to do again we would not have a glass ceiling, just a
couple of skylights instead since we have to leave the ceiling
blinds closed most of the time (too hot otherwise).  It is a great
room for plants, especially starting seedlings.

Stephanie Winner
winner@apple.com
Xref: sparky rec.gardens:8158 alt.bonsai:381
From: dhamilto@gssec.bt.co.uk (David Hamilton)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens,alt.bonsai
Subject: Re: Christmas tree alternative?
Date: 20 Nov 92 15:54:53 GMT
Organization: BT, Software Engineering Centre, Glasgow, UK

In article <Bxx9tn.26x@watdragon.uwaterloo.ca>, mhmakuta@logos.uwaterloo.ca (Marzena Makuta-Giluk) writes:
|> 
|> How about this idea: get a bonsai.  It smells like the real
|> thing and looks like a real Christmass tree in miniature.
|> You can gently decorate it with tiny ornaments every year
|> (no lights though) and you would have a nice plant at other times too.
|> No need to ever get rid of it, since it does not grow too large.
|> 
|> Marzena

I've a dwarf spruce that I've used as a Christmas tree for the last year
or two.  It's not had any training but with miniature decorations
it looks just like a small version of the real thing.

One thing to watch, though, don't being your outdoor bonsai inside for
too long at this time of year.  This must be the number one way of
killing them.

On a pine.. "It looked lovely, sitting on top of the T.V, then all the
needles fell off.  What did I do wrong"(!)

-- 
David Hamilton                         Email:  dhamilton@gssec.bt.co.uk
BT, Glasgow Engineering Centre,        Phone:  +44 41 553 2116
229 George Street, Glasgow, UK G1 1BZ
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: Doug.Hemken@launchpad.unc.edu (Doug Hemken)
Subject: Re: Christmas tree alternative?
Organization: University of North Carolina Extended Bulletin Board Service
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 18:22:00 GMT

>In article <1992Nov17.092118.5813@athena.cs.uga.edu> maxfield@athena.cs.uga.edu (Joan C. Maxfield) writes:
>-> 
>-> 
>-> Christmas.  Daniel, is my fiance...He is a vegetarian.  Can you see
>-> where this is going?  Daniel doesn't want to "kill a poor innocent
>-> tree just so we can hang stuff on it"  I keep trying to tell him that

I'll bet he never brings you any cut flowers, either.

-=> Doug Hemken

--
   The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the University of
     North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Campus Office for Information
        Technology, or the Experimental Bulletin Board Service.
           internet:  laUNChpad.unc.edu or 152.2.22.80
From: arkdr@uniwa.uwa.edu.au (Dave Rindos)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: List of cold climate gums
Date: 16 Nov 1992 15:04:43 +0800
Organization: The University of Western Australia
NNTP-Posting-Host: uniwa.uwa.edu.au

che358w@vaxc.cc.monash.edu.au writes:

>A  few weeks ago someone wrote asking about growing Eucalypts in Boston
>and this sparked a conversation about cold climate gums. Here is a list
>of cold climate gums from the Better Homes and Gardens Native Plants book.
>As they are australian they can withstand high temperatures and dry
>conditions as well as cold, snow and frost.

Beware, however, that "cold" and "frost" are relatively relative terms!
Even the *coldest* regions of Ozzie (like Canberra, fer instance) are
very mild by north american standards.  "Frost" hence means slightly
below freezing (like the high 20's F); "cold" means the low 30's F.  I
doubt very very much that ANYWHERE in Australia would have anthing even
vaguely approaching a typical Boston winter (weeks of below freezing
temperature with nights going to zero F or so and days in the teens F). 

Here it is probably worth noting that some of the plants included for
"cold climate" gardens (in the Encyclopedia of Australian Gardening)
inlcude some rather "tender" (by NA standards) as Deodar Cedar, Magnolia
campbelli, Eucryphia, and Eleagnus pungens. 

Still, I would not be surprised if some of the herbaceous stuff from
these areas might not prove hardy (esp under a reliable snow cover).  It
would be nice if these plants were introduced into cultivation in the US
and other very cold climates.

Dave
From: jhb@calmasd.prime.com (Jim Bishop)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Need help with Mildew on Snow Peas
Date: 17 Nov 92 20:34:13 GMT
Organization: -

In article <1992Nov16.175929.21805@smsc.sony.com>, 
ram@smsc.sony.com (Ray Milkey) writes:
> I am planning my second planting of Snow Peas (this is a mild winter
> area) but I had problems with my first planting that I am hoping the
> net can help me resolve.
> 
> [part deleted]
> 
> My question to the net is are there any effective ways to prevent this
> short of anti fungal checmicals?  Is this somehow related to
> over/under watering?  When I replant, should I replace all of the soil
> in the container and/or sterilize it somehow (it is wood)?
> 

Do you know which variety you are growing?  I assume you are growning
the edible pod peas that have full sized peas (as opposed to oriental
pea pods which are flat).  There are several newer varieties of snow
peas that are mildew resistent.  I believe that sugar snap (or was it
sugar daddy) was the first edible pod pea.  It has horrible mildew
resistance.  As I recall sugar ann has excellent mildew resistance,
but has a poor germination rate.  There are many others.  You need to
shop around some.  Try several varieties and see which does best for
you.

I read in the local paper about a new variety that has pink flowers
and purple pods.  This makes it much easier to find the ripe pods. 
The pods turn green when cooked, but you can also eat them raw.

Last year I tried Oregon mammoth melting sugar II, or some such name.
It is an oriental pea, but the II at the end was the important part. 
It was very productive.  It had huge pods and was mildew resistant.

I prefer sugar peas, but haven't found a variety that does well here. 
The bush varieties get eaten by snails and slugs.  The tall varieties
get mildew.  I guess I ought to find out what the some the nearby road
side stands use.  They have lots of peas in the spring.

Jim
Newsgroups: rec.gardens,misc.rural
From: pharvey@quack.sac.ca.us (Paul Harvey)
Subject: Re: Black Walnuts On Lawn
Keywords: walnuts, lawn, kill grass
Organization: The Duck Pond public unix: +1 408 249 9630, log in as 'guest'.
Date: 19 Nov 1992 02:59:46 UTC

In article <BxwArs.JrI@news.cso.uiuc.edu> 
cl27111@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Christopher  Lindsey) writes:
>	Black walnuts are supposed to be the most delicious walnuts known to
>man!  (I think they're also the messiest...)  They really don't provide any
>value, except that you'll have some new walnuts coming up in a few years...

On the value of Black walnuts (Juglans nigra):

Walnut grove helps veneer firm blossom:
In a back room at International Veneer Co. in Coldwater, Randy Taylor
searches through large trays that hold 8-10 foot long samples of wood
shaved to the thickness of heavy paper. Near the bottom of one stack, he
finds the dark, purplish-brown wood with the distinctive grain. "This is
it," he says, lifting one of the samples and checking the computerized
label for the type of wood. The sample is from a mother lode of black
walnut, a 20-acre, 527-tree grove in central Illinois believed to be the
largest stand in the US, until International Veneer cut it this spring.
Black walnut, prized as veneer for furniture and high-quality paneling,
is increasingly hard to find, and stands of more that a few trees are
rare. Walnut trees bought for veneer usually fetch $100 to $1,000 each,
though some prized specimens have commanded five-figure prices. IV last
fall won the bidding for the grove near Elkhart, Ill., paying $528,000.
It was a coup for the company, which since it was started in 1978 has
grown into one of the largest hardwood veneer companies in the country,
with annual sales of more that $16 million. IV has been getting
better-than-average prices for the walnut, Taylor said. Raw walnut
veneer sells for about 4 cents to $1 a foot, depending on the grade.
Higher and middle grades go to office and residential furniture. Lower
grades generally are used for paneling. Scraps are used in particle
board.
	- Detroit Free Press, 6-28-90

Black Walnut and Red Oak timber is being cut faster that our forests are
growing. Veneer quality in both these species is extremely limited and
both species are bringing excellent prices for good lumber. I'm sure we
will see a steady climb in the price paid for these two valuable
Northern Hardwoods. - M. Van Slooten

In case you're interested in quantity purchase of trees to start that
retirement fund, here's a source:
Van's Pines, Inc, Nursery and Forests, West Olive, Michigan, 49460,
1-800-88-TREES
From: jhb@calmasd.prime.com (Jim Bishop)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Christmas tree alternative?
Date: 21 Nov 92 05:18:49 GMT
Organization: -

In article <1453300101@igc.apc.org>, 
ecologycntr@igc.apc.org (Ecology Center) writes:
> 
> [Lots of interesing points about Xmas trees deleted.
> 
> Many cut trees sold in the West are Monterey Pines; if cut above the first
> (lowest) branch, that branch can be retrained as a leader, 
> producing a "new tree" in a few years. 
> 

I inherited a potted Monterey pine ex-Xmas tree with my house.  It
rooted through the pot and into the hill.  I managed to fix the
contour of the hill so it looks OK and 9 years later I have a 45 foot
tree.  It doesn't get much water, but it still grows pretty fast and
it blocks the view of my neighbor's blue gums (which are very ugly and 
messy).

Anyways Sunset says never to plant a Monterey pine in my area.  They
warn that they are short lived here and have beetle problems.  Looks
like I'll have more firewood some day, but it's still a nice looking
tree for now.

Jim
From: chuq@Apple.COM (Eeyore's Evil Twin)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Almost no acorns this year
Date: 18 Nov 92 19:32:04 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Pooh Corner Country Club -- A Planned Community

sundare@watson.ibm.com (C. Sundaresan) writes:

>Last year my 3 huge oak trees shed so many acorns in the fall

>This year almost none!

Oak trees cycle. I recently read a field study on oaks that showed they
cycle over a period of a few years as a way of controlling predators
(primarily field mice). There will be years with very few acorns that cause
the mouse populations to plummet, followed by a year or two of very high
numbers. Since the mouse populations are reduced, they aren't able to eat
all of them, allowing some germination. Then the mouse population explodes,
and the oaks cycle down again to reduce populations before another acorn
cycle.

What they aren't sure about yet is how the oaks all communicate, since they
cycle in forest groups rather than individuals.  

Fascinating stuff.


-- 
            Chuq "IMHO" Von Rospach, ESD Support & Training (DAL/AUX)
                      Member, SFWA =+= Editor, OtherRealms
                chuq@apple.com | GEnie: MAC.BIGOT | ALink:CHUQ 

    I wanna drive the zamboni! I wanna drive the zamboni, yes I do.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens