HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Organization: University of Central Florida--Computer Services
Date: Monday, 16 Nov 1992 10:53:32 EST
From: <HAHN@UCF1VM.BITNET>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: What uses the 2.0L 16V engine?

o Any Jetta GLI 16V uses them
o Base Passat
o GTi 16V

And probably the Carrado from the last post. :-)

Cheers
----------------------------------------------------------------
Steve 'Burnout' Hahn            University of Central Florida
VF700F Pilot                    Computer Services
BEAST Pilot
From: drew@tcom.stc.co.uk (Scooby Doo)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Do insurance companies hate VWs?
Date: 17 Nov 1992 09:24:13 GMT
Organization: BNR Europe, New Southgate, London N11 1HB.
NNTP-Posting-Host: bnsgs200.bnr.co.uk

In article <1e96erINN6mm@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer) writes:
>
>In a previous article, tgpt_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Tom Guptill) says:
>
>>
>>	Here's another suggestion for A1 Golf/Rabbit owners:  Remove the
>>model label from the back and replace it with a "RABBIT DIESEL C" emblem.
>>
>>Tom.  (Nobody *ever* tries to steal my car!) :-)
>>
>>
>maybe i should have thought of this before i switched the emblem...hehe..
>i swithced myne from diesel to fuel i njected..oh well....it's never been
>broken into either...(grin)
>DREW
>-- 
>??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
>??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
>?????????????????????????????????-----whatever!

I took the GTi signs off the front and back of my car and replaced the
back one with just 'Golf'. Still drives the same.. just looks like
a Golf C with wheelarch trim, nice front grille and wide tyres,
alloy wheels....

P.s. Did anyone else notice a performance drop after removing the
GTi sign??? 

Drew.

--
	UK : (081) 945 3726		| The car in front is a Toyota...
Drew	ESN : 6 730 3726	    	| But not for long!! 
Wagar	US : +44 81 945 3726	    	| 
	Internet : drew@bnr.co.uk	| GTi drivers do it faster!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: roden@phonon.eng.ohio-state.edu (Christoph A Roden)
Subject: engine rebuild (watercooled) ????
Organization: The Ohio State University Dept of Electrical Engineering
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 01:28:46 GMT

Has anyone out there rebuilt a watercooled VW shortblock?
I have several questions since I am considering 
trying to rebuilt my '81 Scirocco.

1)  where did you order the parts from ? 
    Pistons, rods, bearings, oil pump.

2)  were you satisfied with the parts?
    how much were they?

3)  Where did you get your machine work done?
    and what shouold I look out for?

4)  any other trick or hints?


Please email with responses
Thanks alot!
Chris
From: gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca (Andy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: what could block my 1st gear?
Date: 17 Nov 92 15:56:13 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Math, Stats & CS, Dalhousie University, Halifax, NS, Canada

Ever since I got my transmission oil changed, i sometimes have trouble
putting the car into fitst. What I noticed over a few weeks is:

1) after reverse, it takes a couple tries.
2) when the car is up hill, I have major problems putting it to first
3) downhill, no problem at all
4) it usually goes in esier when the car is rolling than standing
	(which is sort of contridicting to vw)

It feels like there is something blocking the engagemant. Like somethning
is in the way. I checked the box (inside the car) and nothing is blocking 
it there. I checked the linkages and they seem to be ok. When I force it
in, there is no grind or anythink like that.

Could this be just an adjustment problem? What do I adjust and How? Or 
could it be the clutch - I doubt it because I have not noticed any slipping.

My gear box is kinda loose, so do I have to get a new linkage package. I 
just replaced (2 months ago) all the bushings, but it did not help.
If I have to get a new linckge set, I will get a short shift kit.

It seems to me like the problem is getting worse, so I would like to fix it.

Thanks for any help,
ANdy
-- 
---....-------------****----*******-) GTI FUN-atic                      o  
--. \/ .-----GTI---******--*********)         Don't forget to bike:     ,-\
--.\/\/.-----------******--*********)  (and sail and windsurf and ski)  0\-0
---....-------------****----*******-) gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca,goaway@ac.dal.ca
From: kneff@teton.NoSubdomain.NoDomain (Ken Neff)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Do insurance companies hate VWs?
Date: 23 Nov 92 21:05:52 GMT
Organization: TIVOLI Systems

In article <1992Nov17.150802.20214@cs.tulane.edu>, finnegan@invader.navo.navy.mil (Kenneth Finnegan) writes:
|> All too familiar tale of insurance woe deleted ;-(  FUNNY YOU SHOULD MENTION 
|> STATE FARM ;-) ..........
|>

	Tale of woe about State Farm deleted

|> Every time someone tells me how great STATE FARM is, I ask them,
|> "How many claims have you filed?"  The answer is usually, "None, why?"
|> Hee Hee.  Just you wait.

Every time (both of them) that someone has had bad things to say about State
Farm, I've been quite surprised.  I've made 3 claims against State Farm in my
life, one in Indiana, one in Illinois, and one in Texas.  In each case, they
have paid, promptly and in full, and not once have they raised my rates.
Since this isn't rec.autos.insurance, I won't bore you with the details, but
State Farm has treated me quite well.  And their rates for my Corrado are quite
good.

-- 
1990 Corrado           Civilization in three easy steps:   Ken Neff
1988 Hawk GT            the wheel, internal combustion,    Tivoli Systems, Inc.
(CMRA #647  DOD #0022)        and climate control          kneff@tivoli.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu
Subject: Re: info on jetta
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 00:32:05 GMT
Organization: University of Louisville

In article <xbw11rh@rpi.edu>, squiec@jec325.its.rpi.edu (Craig L. Squier) writes:
>   The Chiltons manuals are so inferior, they don't even pay attention to what
>  model they GENERALIZE repairs for. They assume that any VW is like any other 
>  VW. Not so. I found the Bentley's to be so far superior that I have 2 of 
>  each. A greasy one for the shop, and a Pristine one for the bookshelf.
>  Haynes manuals even outclass the Chilton Trashola. At least haynes puts
>  real (not drawn) pictures in the book!
>  I am sure however that Jettas after 84( i.e. A2) are HYDRAULIC.....
>  They made this improvement for the A2 chassis and others in '85.
>  Is everbody clear?
>  Hope it helps..            -Craig.
> 
>>??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
>>??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
>>?????????????????????????????????-----whatever!
> 
> 

You know why Haynes manuals have pictures don't you?  Place the corresponding
sections of the two manuals next to each other and flip through each.  They are
the same pictures.  (at least for the air-cooled engines)  Same diagrams, same
drawings.  The only saving grace is that sometimes they have different
explainations.  Amazing how just a slightly different explaination of the same
procedure can make all the difference in the world.  ;-)  

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
|pH Fred == pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu    |         "What we lack         |
|        == ..!psuvax1!ulkyvx.bitnet!pgheit01 |   in enthusiasm, we make up   |
|           University of Louisville          |         for in apathy."       |
|                Louisville, KY               |                               |
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
From: colemant@yvax.byu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: 46mm wrench found!  Thank you.
Date: 20 Nov 92 15:52:15 GMT
Organization: Brigham Young University

Thank you very much to all who responded with suggestions.

The solution was as follows:

Here at BYU there is a shop for Mechanichal Engineers like me to use.  
After discovering it a few days ago I found a 2.5" adjustible wrench with 
a 2.5 foot handle.  They let me borrow it on the condition that I not use 
a cheater bar.  The bar would have made it go quicker and more ellegantly.
After jumping on the thing a few times it slowly came loose.

This solution came after 50 phone calls to shops and stores.  The place 
where I borrowed it from is 3 stories below where I work... right under
my nose.  The looks I got carrying this 3 foot wrench around to classes 
were enjoyable.

Now if I can just get the replacement steering box and carburator installed
the beast will be ready to license (sp?)

   Thanks again,  --Tom       '71 bus     '71 bug
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: taylorb@ncifcrf.gov (Brent Taylor)
Subject: Re: Timing belts and 16v engines
Organization: Frederick Cancer Research and Development Center
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 13:27:36 GMT

On the subject of timing belts...... I tightened mine the other day to the
Bently spec of being able to turn it only 45 degrees by hand.  The engine 
(16V 2.0L) runs much better, but the tensionor bearing was screaming.  Kind 
of a whining noise that changed frequency with RPM's.  So I ripped it all
apart again and loosened it to where it was before (pretty loose) and bingo...
no more noise.  So I tightened it so that I can turn it about 90 dregees and
the whining is very faint, but still there. 
Has anybody had this problem??  Have I totally trashed my tensioner bearing
(66 bucks from VW)?  The engine does run much better with the belt tight! but
do I then have to change bearing everytime I change the oil!??

Brent Taylor
Supercomputing Center
Frederick, MD
taylorb@ncifcrf.gov

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: zowie@daedalus.stanford.edu (Craig "Powderkeg" DeForest)
Subject: Re: Valve adjustment problems on 77 Camper, and plea for parts
Organization: Stanford Center for Space Science and Astrophysics
Distribution: rec.autos.vw
Date: 16 Nov 92 18:24:00

In article <foo> stephens@cat53.cs.wisc.edu (Philip Stephenson) writes:
    Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
    Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 23:04:17 GMT
--> Lines: 0 <--

Of course, you *do* want to actually adjust your valves occasionally,
and I don't think the last word's been spoken yet.  Some like 'em
at 0.006", the spec, and others do 'em at 0.007" or more.  Most agree
that you should adjust 'em *stone* *cold*, before you run the engine
at all, rather than in the middle of the tune up like the manual
recommends.

The valve is just right when you can gently slide in the appropriate 
feeler gauge, but can't slide in the next bigger one.  You'll get a feel
for it.

Remember: The valves can rattle till Jesus comes -- but when they
get quiet, get worried.

(BTW, I'm still looking for EGR parts for my '73 bus -- *anyone*
nationwide know a good supplier?  I've checked at several local ones
(thanks for the good info, people!), but working EGR systems are
extremely hard to find for this year.  If you send me the names of
your local huge, we've-got-everything places with the old hippies in
grungy bell-bottom overalls and bifocals, I'll compile a list and post
it.)
--
Craig DeForest -- astrophysicist for hire.  

Beat cal - Beat cal - Beat cal - Beat cal - Beat cal - Beat cal - Beat cal 
               [sort-a mindless, eh? That's pac-10 for you.]
From: ccb@macbeth.umd.edu (Blake Sobiloff)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Is Texaco's Antifreeze phosphate-free?
Date: 16 Nov 92 06:03:36 GMT
Organization: University of Maryland, College Park

In article <1992Nov13.230715.14713@ucselx.sdsu.edu> maxc1189@ucselx.sdsu.edu (Ivan Z. Padilla) writes:
>Is Texaco's Antifreeze phosphate-free? or
>I need a do I really need a phosphate-free antifreeze for
>my Golf, 85? or
>Can you recommend an appropriate brand for my car?

As always, if you want to be totally confident, you can buy Autobahn
brand and get robbed for $12-14 a gallon. Or, you can buy Zerex (made
by BASF, another fine German company) that lists no phosphates and
specifically claims to be safe for aluminium. Prestone doesn't make
any claims either way, and neither does Texaco, to the best of my
knowledge.

"To say someone is 'entitled' to some- | Blake Sobiloff
thing is to say someone else is obli-  | <ccb@umd5.umd.edu>
gated to produce in his place. It is   | Laboratory for Automation Psychology
the civilian version of draft-dodging  | Department of Psychology
and leaving the sacrifices to others." | University of Maryland
                -Thomas Sowell         | College Park, MD  20742-4411
From: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: alignment question
Date: 17 Nov 1992 22:46:31 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, lito@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Angelito Lucena) says:

>hi,
>
>i have a 88 jetta gli w/ ~75,000 miles.
>
>i brought the car in for a four wheel alignment yesterday
>and was told that 'cam bolts' needed to be added to the
>front end.  how far out of alignment can the front suspension
>be before 'cam bolts' are required??  i thought that the rear
>suspension was nonadjustable,  how is a four wheel alignment
>performed on the back end??  is it normal to add rear shims
>to adjust the rear end??

glad you asked..as i am not sure either..when i took myne in, they 
wanted ungodly amts of $$ to do the rears...someone quoted me 10
per shim per side, no warantee..( i skippedhim...no warantee???)
..so..i say it is normal to add shims for the rear..but am not sure,
and hope someone else will post too!
DREW

>
>thanks in advance,
>and please email to:
>
>lito lucena
>lito@oasys.dt.navy.mil
> now at  :  dtmb, cdhq, nwsc          'if the defaults weren't good enough,
> formerly: dtrc, carderock                  they wouldn't be defaults.....'
>							bill's sister
>
-- 
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
?????????????????????????????????-----whatever!
From: amiller@almaden.ibm.com (Alex Miller)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: reducing noise in my gti
Date: 19 Nov 1992 11:35:54 -0600
Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu

My '83 GTI is a very noisy car.  I'm not talking about things
rattling or noisy shocks, I mean ENGINE NOISE, EXHAUST NOISE,
and ROAD NOISE.

ENGINE NOISE
------------

At 118k miles my engine seems much noisier than before, but perhaps
I'm just comparing it with my old honda and new buick.  The engine
does have a N-grind cam and sport valve springs.  Power is fine,
and compression is fairly even across the cylinders.  What sort
of things should I look at?
- the accessories and their belts (water pump, alternator)
- motor mounts

EXHAUST NOISE
-------------

Okay, well this is my fault.  I have a Euro-GTI exhaust manifold
and techtonics downpipe to my cat and then a liestritz exhaust.
I think the liestritz is noisy than the borla I used to have,
which is noisier than the stock exhaust.  The hangers and hardware
are all in good shape.

ROAD NOISE
----------

The car had Ziebart rustproofing and bodysealing when I bought it
(originally an East Coast car) but most of that is gone thanks
to various shops steam cleaning my engine compartment.  I still
have all the original carpeting.  I do have a roof mounted
bicycle rack that probably creates some extra wind noise.

WAYS TO REDUCE NOISE
--------------------

I was thinking of trying DYNAMAT, a polymer film that is supposed
to absorb noise from metal and plastic surfaces.  I guess I would
have to lift up the carpeting, attach dynamat to the metal body,
then replace the carpet.  DYNAMAT is sold to help improve the
sound of car stereo equipment.  Does anyone have any advice or
suggestions regarding DYNAMAT or similar materials?

cheers,

Alex
amiller@almaden.ibm.com
From: awelker@dciem.dciem.dnd.ca (Andrew Welker)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: AUDI 5000S Help
Date: 16 Nov 92 15:27:31 GMT
Organization: Defence and Civil Institute of Environmental Medicine

Hello all, I hope you can be of some help! Well, the MacPherson struts are starting
to give out on my '84 Audi 5000S. My mechanic (whom I trust) said the new inserts
are $140 Can each and suggested that aftermarket replacement would be cheaper and
last longer. What would you recommend as replacements? What kind of cost can I expect?
Is my mechanic right? Thanks in advance!

Andrew Welker
From: tgpt_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Tom Guptill)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: diesel Jetta
Date: 18 Nov 92 20:57:36 GMT
Organization: University of Rochester - Rochester, New York

In <1992Nov18.082135.23461@walter.cray.com> dilmore@cray.com (Robert J. Dilmore) writes:

>  No problem. Don't worry, the accessory belts get wet and throw grease
>and muck. If this bothers you or causes your power steering/alt belt to 
>slip, go down to the dealership and have them install the free sheild to 
>the underside of your car.

	Free shield?  Can someone explain this?  Does VW offer a free
water/dirt shield to cover the alternator/belts?  If so, what models/years? 
(I don't remember seeing this in the FAQ).

	Tom
-- 
| Tom Guptill           | tgpt_ltd@cc.rochester.edu (internet) |
| CPU Box 277445 U of R | tgpt_ltd@uordbv (bitnet)             |
| Rochester NY 14627    |                                      |
| (716) 274-0156        |                                      |
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: More GTI vs. GTi
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1992 00:33:38 GMT

Here's another entry to the GTI vs. GTi list. In VW Power & Style
by Ian Kuah there's the following:
	"The South African GTI was and still is badged 'GTi'."

In the book are a couple of pictures of South African produced
GTIs and the GTi emblems do in fact have the small 'i'.

Ric Golen
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: christos@wucs1.wustl.edu (Christos Papadopoulos)
Subject: Re: oxy sen ?
Organization: Washington University, St. Louis MO
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 21:09:42 GMT

In article <Bxx0FC.LE4@Interlan.com> powell@interlan.interlan.com (Glen D. Powell) writes:
>Has anyone replaced a 3-wire heated oxygen sensor with a
>"regular" one-wire non-heated sensor? Any problems noted?
>
>(I'm not concerned if it runs open-loop for an extra
>minure or two on strartup.....)
>
>Thanks,
>
>-glen
>
>
>-- 
>Fundsalo Racing--73 CP RA IV 455HO Firebird GTO, 85 Quattro, 86 4000CS Quattro
>The Few..... The Proud..... The Concurrently Executed.....
>Ex-Alliant,   SCCA/NER, NESCC, NRA Life, GONH Life
>Don't buy japanese *ANYTHING*

	Are you trying to do this to save $35? C'mon now....! Besides, you would
need to somehow inform your ECU that it has to wait before accepting the signal,
otherwise it may run like crap! (Your ECU would still think that you have a
heated unit that produces valid signal fast).
	All in all I don't think this will do you any good.

Christos.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mdailey@bnr.ca (Matthew N. Dailey)
Subject: Re: 46mm wrench for nut
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, BNR-RTP 
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 22:11:13 GMT

The big pipe wrench and cheater works best for me.  I too have 
broken a couple Craftsman 1/2" breaker bars.  Maybe they will
eventually refuse to sell them to VW owners.  

Pipe wrenches are cheap too.

-- 

Matt Dailey
From: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Urgent! Engine rpm goes up to 5000! HELP!
Date: 15 Nov 1992 20:35:48 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, neves@anchor.cs.colorado.edu (NEVES RICHARD K) says:

>In article <1e65jhINNevu@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer) writes:
>>
>>In a previous article, jchen@acsu.buffalo.edu (Jonathan Chen) says:
>>
>>>
>>>Here is what happen:
>
>[stuff deleted]
>
>>>I consult the Haynes manual (sorry, I don't have the good one ).  They say 
>>>there will be a throttle switch, but I can't find one.  I really have no
>>>idea now.
>>>
>
>I've also had a strange idle problem.  We have a 91 passat with 25,000
>miles on it.  For the last thousand miles (or so) it will get "stuck"
>idling around 500 rpm OR around 2000 rpm.  If I turn the car off and
>start it again, it would "reset" and idle normally (until a few blocks
>later when it would do the same thing again).
>
>I took the car in several times.  The computer wasn't showing any
>faults and they "couldn't reproduce the problem" (I hate that).  The
>second time, VW did a recal on the engine monitoring chip.  This
>helped the problem, but didn't fix it.  The third time I took the car
>in I really yelled at them.  They drove the car around for 50 miles
>with the diagnostic screaming codes.  THEN THEY FOUND THE PROBLEM: Bad
>throttle switch.  The replaced the throttle switch and that fixed
>everything.  It runs great now.  


his should be different than yours, as his hasn't a computer control
unit..but this isn't to dispute anything else here!
>
>But I'm disturbed by the fact the computer didn't generate a fault
>when the car was consistently idling abnormally low or high.  What
>gives?  What is the point in having a computer monitor the engine if
>it can't catch stuff like this?
>
>Check those throttle switches! (whatever the hell they are) :)

can't hurt!
DREW
-- 
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
?????????????????????????????????-----whatever!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: jdouglas@MITRE.org (Jason Douglas)
Subject: Re: info on jetta
Organization: The MITRE Corporation
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 21:45:09 GMT

In article <SUMANA.92Nov13152416@hpcll32.0> sumana@0 (Sumana Srinavasan) 
writes:
> hi, I'm the new owner of a 86 Jetta (1.8 Litre gasoline, automatic 
> ) and I'd like to hear about
> experiences of other owners (particularly the bad ones). 
> -sumana

Perhaps we can start a thread on Jetta / Golf heater cores ?!  The cars of 
colleages at work have suffered this malady, and with winter upon us, you 
should be aware of the problem.  VW has graciously offered to pay the 
heater core replacement costs in 2 (out of 2) such incidents.  The problem 
seems to be the separation of the metal heat exchanger from the plastic 
side tanks.  I've just finished replacing the heater core on my 86 Audi 
5000S after my local dealer asked for $500 !  The heater core seems to use 
the same construction as the Jetta / Golf units.  Interestingly, Audi 
declined to help.  Guess the VW side of the organization supports 
customers better than the Audi side !
 
BTW, the repair took all day, but was pretty simple (A lot of *stuff* had to be removed to gain access). Think it would take less time on a Golf/Jetta as the system is much simpler.

Happy motoring!

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw