HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: gringort@wsl.dec.com (Joel Gringorten)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers
Subject: Re: California Mandated Earthquake Insurance - Would you pay it???
Keywords: Earthquake Insurance, Mandated
Date: 2 Sep 92 18:10:47 GMT
Reply-To: gringort@wsl.dec.com (Joel Gringorten)
Distribution: ca
Organization: DEC Western Software Lab

In article <55965@olivea.atc.olivetti.com>, jeff@strobe.ATC.Olivetti.Com (Jeff Lim) writes:
|> 
|> 
|>      Hello Californian Netters,
|> 
|>      I received a letter from my homeowners insurance stating the 
|>      mandated law requiring all insurance companies to remit anywhere
|>      from $12 to $60 for the CRER State Fund.   This fund is suppose
|>      to provide a $15K fund to the homeowner minus a deductible after
|>      a earthquake.   The deductible is a min of 1K to 3.5K so that in
|>      worst ase you could collect $11.5K from the state fund.   There
|>      is a statement stating that if the fund does not reached a reserve 
|>      of $750M then in the case of an earthquake the fund will be 
|>      "Pro-rated" which means that you will get whatever they have
|>      in the fund.   The letter states that if I refused to remit the
|>      $60 to the state fund then I will not be elegible to receive any
|>      funds in the case of an earthquake.    A question to the net, 
|>      is this fund worth paying $60 for??    I would like to know your
|>      opinions and would you pay into this fund.  

The intent of CSER is essentially to pay the large deductable
on your earthquake insurance policy, which is probably 15K or so.
As you stated, the CSER has around 2K of deductable.  Therefore, 
you're paying 60 bucks for 13K of insurance.  That seems roughly
double the normal rate for insurance.

If you reject CSER, you're of course still covered by your earthquake
policy with its large deductable.  I wasn't sure from your post whether
you understood this.

-joel
Newsgroups: misc.consumers
From: ashabana@agsm.ucla.edu (Ahmed Shabana)
Subject: Re: IKEA furniture by mailorder?
Date: 26 Aug 92 12:42:48 PDT

bruceh@cray.com (Bruce T. Hill) writes:

>In article <1992Aug26.130236.14891@exu.ericsson.se> ebupaf@ebu.ericsson.se writes:
>>There are two IKEA's in the L.A. area. One of them
>>is in Burbank, and the other in Irvine.
>This last weekend I drove past an IKEA store in Fontana, just south of 
>Interstate 10.

>-- 
>Bruce T. Hill @ Cray Research Superservers, Inc., San Diego, CA, USA
>Email: bruceh@cray.com  Phone: (619) 625-3746  FAX: (619) 625-0641
>Humorous quotation:  Nobody looks good wearing _brown_lipstick_. --Frank Zappa

I heard that IKEA has purchased STOR ( or at least some of its showrooms).
STOR went out of buisness recently. The Fontana store was a STOR location.

Hope that helps
Ahmed 
--
_____________________________________________________________________
Ahmed A. Shabana	         |" Unless otherwise indicated
Anderson Graduate School of Mgmt.| products do not include anchovies"  
U.C.L.A.			 | Fine print in Dell computers brochures. 
Xref: sparky misc.consumers:16054 rec.video:10867 sci.electronics:15172 sci.misc:1562
From: davecole@cie.uoregon.edu (Dave Cole)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers,rec.video,sci.electronics,sci.misc
Subject: Re: VCR Maintenance Advice Wanted. Head Cleaners Any Good?
Keywords: VCR
Date: 3 Sep 92 13:54:37 GMT
Article-I.D.: nntp.1992Sep3.135437.13013
Organization: University of Oregon Campus Information Exchange

Re: VCR HEad cleaning
 
  If you do get the urge to clean your VCR heads, be sure to get the following
items in addition to those listed by others...
 
SHAMMY Q-TIPS
 
  The cotton ones can leave small amounts of cotton all over the inside of
the VCR.  NEVER move the q-tips up and down on the heads...  The can break
the heads off.  Always move the q-tips along the direction of motion the heads
take.  Hit all the tape path, and try and keep any material used for cleaning
off the belts etc.  After a while the belts will get hard and break if you
allow a lot of liquid material to slosh onto them.
 
  I work for a TV station and clean the heads of a number of machines.  We
really don't even bother with the q-tips.  Get a large shammy, and use your
finger behind the shammy.  Be careful of the heads...  They break VERY
easly.
 
Dave
From: ronk@cascade.ens.tek.com (Ron Kirkpatrick;627-6707;50-454;LP=A;)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers
Subject: Re: How to get UPS to pay up AND what's a good alternative
Date: 2 Sep 92 19:40:47 GMT
Reply-To: Ron.C.Kirkpatrick@tek.com
Organization: Tektronix, Inc.,  Beaverton, OR

In article <Btwt2H.LL5@news.cso.uiuc.edu>, tmkk@uiuc.edu (Khan) writes:
|> 
|> On the other hand, FedEx screwed up $30,000 worth of equipment which the
|> poster paid them to deliver safely. Seems to me that FedEx is
|> responsible for the package while it's in their posession. Supopse you
|> loaned me your $30,000 projection TV set, and while it was in my
|> posession I dropped it, damaging it beyond repair. Would you accept an
|> answer like "sorry, chump, you should have insured it" from me? THE HELL
|> YOU WOULD. You'd be on my back to pay up the $30,000 I owed you for
|> damaging your equipment, and you'd be right.
|> 

Yes, but you were aware of what you were borrowing! FedEx received a package
of unknown value. How are they going to know the value?

As a price of doing business, they will accept automatic responsiblity for
the value up to a certain dollar limit. (All carriers do this.) If you want
more protection, you pay for it.

Your homeowner's/renter's insurance will cover jewelry, furs, etc only up
to a specified dollar amount and then you are required to add a rider to
your policy for more money.

-- 
Ron Kirkpatrick
Tektronix, Inc
News Administrator
503-627-6707
From: jis@gnv.ifas.ufl.edu
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: patio furniture recommandation wanted
Date: 26 Aug 92 19:03:47 GMT


I wonder if someone could recommand any good place (or mail order place) 
to buy some nice indoor or outdoor patio furnitures such as wicker or rattan.

Thanks in advance,
jennifer
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: ggawron@comm.mot.com (Glenn Gawron)
Subject: Where can I get the FAQ for this conf???
Organization: Motorola CSE
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 19:41:56 GMT

Thank You!!
Glenn
+----------------------------------------------------------------------+
|Glenn Gawron                          | Internet: ggawron@comm.mot.com|
|Motorola Central Systems Engineering  |    X.400: C10836@email.mot.com|
|1301 E. Algonquin Road - IL02 Rm 0436 |    Voice: (708) 538-3756      |
|Schaumburg, Illinois. 60196 USA       |      Fax: (708) 576-5640      |
+----------------------------------------------------------------------+
From: jeske@src.dec.com (Steve Jeske)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: suggested weapons (was: Killing burglars.)
Date: 1 Sep 92 00:51:44 GMT
Followup-To: rec.guns
Distribution: na
Organization: DEC Systems Research Center

In article <1992Aug31.203341.11080@michael.apple.com>
ems@michael.apple.com (E. Michael Smith) writes:
[three pages about guns]
>I am not responsible nor is anyone else.  Everything is disclaimed.

Even though you're not responsible, the rest of us would surely be very
appreciative if you continued this discussion on rec.guns, since it has
nothing to do with housing at all.  Thanks.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: roofing
Keywords: rubber roof!
From: gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston)
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 92 19:36:22 CDT
Organization: Garys' Home for Obsolete Computers

emolinar@stake.DaytonOH.NCR.COM (Elizabeth Molinaro) writes:

>         ANYWAY: We have a 15' x 12' or so flat roof.  Needs repair.
>         The roofing guy wants to use a bike inner-tube like material,
>         in one solid sheet.  Does this work?  What are the drawbacks?
>         Advantages?

It's called membrane roofing, and it works real well in applications
like this. You do need some way for water to drain off, though.

A membrane roof on a store in North Carolina survived 115MPH winds
from Hurricane Hugo. I understand Andrew wasn't leaving a building
to support the roofs, so as long as you don't expect sustained 
winds over 120MPH, it'll probably work real well for you....

(Yeah, in Ohio, you'll only see winds like that from a tornado. No
guarantee of durability in that case, either.)

Gary Heston, at home....
gary@cdthq.uucp
From: pstryjew@colsun.Central.Sun.COM (Pete Stryjewski)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Questions on Closing
Date: 26 Aug 92 15:16:22 GMT
Reply-To: pstryjew@colsun.Central.Sun.COM


I am preparing to close on an house next week and have a question about what day
to close.  Currently the closing is set for the 1st, but I may be able to change
it to the 31st.  I know about the prorated interest and first mortgage payment
date, but what I am wondering about is making most of the seller paying closing
costs.

My contract states that the seller will pay points, out of pockets and PMI upto
a dollar figure.  I am trying to maximize the amount of money that I can have the
seller pay. Sooo will the 1st or 31st be better??

Pete
pstryjew@colsun.Central.Sun.COM
From: bmh@louvre.cs.unc.edu (Brad Hemminger)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: pressure treated plywood for subflooring???
Date: 1 Sep 92 22:55:09 GMT

I'm having to tear out some rotting plywood subflooring next to our shower.
Beneath the linoleum there are two layers of plywood above the floor joists,
with a sheet of black paper (I assume as a water barrier) between the
plywood sheets.  Not having done this before I'd be glad to hear
recommendations from folks regarding tearing out water damaged subflooring
and replacing it.  One specific question I had was whether it would be a
good idea to use pressure treated plywood (just noticed some of this a
couple of weeks ago at a construction project, is it newly introduced?) when
I replace the top layer of plywood.  I was thinking it might hold up better
in case of any future water damage.

Please reply to me.  I will summarize if there is enough interest.


thanks, Brad
bmh@rad.unc.edu
From: shimeall@taurus.cs.nps.navy.mil (timothy shimeall)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Cleaning a Deck
Date: 28 Aug 92 17:26:01 GMT
Reply-To: shimeall@cs.nps.navy.mil (timothy shimeall)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey CA

On using a power-washer on a deck: is it possible to use one without
removing the weathered look from the deck?  I'd like to keep the
patina, but need to remove mulm from between the boards of my deck and
I understand that a power-washer is the best way of doing that.
					Tim

-- 
Tim Shimeall ((408) 646-2509)
The proper response to detecting a bug isn't to fix the bug - it's to make 
sure you'll never have to worry about that bug again.  --- Richard Hamming
From: jefftb@hpmwtd.sr.hp.com (Jeff Brown)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 20:41:33 GMT
Subject: Re: Septic Systems
Organization: HP Santa Rosa Site (NMD MTA MWTD)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house

 In Sonoma county, yuo cannot put a tank/leach field within 100" of surface
 water. You don't mention how much property there is. Here any new construction
 must have 100% or 200% "expansion area". This is basicly that you can buiild
 one or two more complete septic systems. 
 You mention the orignal system was done under a permit. Here the county
 health dept. would have info on file, like perk tests distance the system
 is from surface water. If the property has no expansion area and the system
 is failing and the existing system is too close to surface water and the 
 neighbors won't sell you an easement to install leach lines I think the 
 county could condemn the property. If I were I would go over a plot plan
 (that hopefilly on file at eh healthdept.) with a county offical.
 Also if there is room for a new system and the old one if failing there
 are thing like mound, and pressure distribution systems that can be done in
 poor perking soil. They are not cheap 10-15k. We are in a buyers market. So 
 I would play hard ball w/ the sellers on this. You might want to hire a consultant that know his sh*t. (sorry, I just had to do that). 

 Jeff Brown
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: mguyott@eriador.prime.com (M. Guyott)
Subject: Re: It looks like carpenter ants...
Organization: /etc/organization
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 15:13:00 GMT

In article <1992Aug27.094945.8800@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com> oman@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com (Diane at Allen-Bradley in Cleveland) writes:
>In article <DRAND.92Aug26183833@spinner.osf.org>, drand@spinner.osf.org 
>(Douglas Rand) writes:
>> BTW.  If you kill the queen,  the nest is finished.  So don't worry
>> about the pest control people's scare tactics.  You only have to kill
>> one very important ant.
>
>Good point!  Our problem is we don't know if we have a nest or not - but they
>are definitely in the house alot - maybe they're just browsing.  We don't
>hear them in the walls - but we prefer safe over sorry.

I also don't know if we have one, two or no nests in the house.  I have only
seen large numbers (5 or more) in two places.

How can you tell if there is a nest?  Can you really hear them in the walls?
At what time of day (or night)?  I am a little hesitant to go tearing off
my siding but this may be the prudent thing to do.

If you find the next how can you be sure you have killed the queen?

Is the powder that the exterminating companies use Boric acid?

Boy, I'm just full of questions today.

Marc
----
Two of the worst things we teach our children are that a knowledge of science
is nice but not necessary, and a knowledge of sex is necessary but not nice.

Marc Guyott              Constellation Software, Inc.          (508) 620-2800
                         Framingham, Mass. 01701 USA                Ext. 3135
mguyott@primerd.prime.com       ...!{uunet, decwrl}!primerd.prime.com!mguyott
mguyott@eriador.prime.com       ...!{uunet, decwrl}!eriador.prime.com!mguyott
From: tmkk@uiuc.edu (Khan)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: suggested weapons (was: Killing burglars.)
Date: 3 Sep 92 20:51:37 GMT
Followup-To: misc.misc
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana


In article <1992Sep2.184041.14205@hou.amoco.com> jim@n5ial.chi.il.us writes:
>In article <BtyE47.3y9@news.cso.uiuc.edu> tmkk@uiuc.edu (Khan) writes:
>>In article <1992Sep1.191610.29228@hou.amoco.com> jim@n5ial.chi.il.us writes:
>
>>>yeah, I think his news software is screwed up somehow.  after all, we all
>>>know that not even BIFF [is that bad]
>
>>That's some pretty impressive news software - it not only repeated the
>>same not in response to different messages, but it also changed the
>>wording of the reply slightly (though not significantly) each time.
>>Perhaps someone crossed the "vacation" program with a genetic algorithm?
>
>hey, it's possible.  :-)  there are programs out there to analyze your
>grammer,

...not to mention the orthography checkers out there ;-)

>but then, perhaps it is easier to believe that the posts were really
>from BIFF (or a BIFF clone), and he learned how to turn CAPS LOCK off.

I don't believe that - it's too out of character for BIFF. I might believe
it was one of BIFF's mutant offspring, however! ;-)

Followups directed out of this group...
From: richg@hatch.socal.com (Rich Greenberg)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Telephone Outlets
Date: 24 Aug 92 02:08:29 GMT
Organization: Hatch Usenet and E-mail.  Playa del Rey, CA

In article <1992Aug23.013031.9219@icd.teradyne.com> ardai@zax.eda.teradyne.com (Michael Ardai) writes:
>In article <5942@grus.cs.nps.navy.mil> erickson@cs.nps.navy.mil (David Erickson) writes:
>-Are all cordless phones easy to monitor?  I thought they had built in
>-scrambling circuitry, which is set according to a small bank of
>-dip switches.
>
>While there are a few cordless phones that actually *scramble* the voice (one
>in the new Radio Shack catalog comes to mind), most of the 'digital security'

While these phones are "scrambled", don't consider them to be secure!!
The scrambling is a simple voice inversion, and unscramblers are
easily obtained or built.
-- 
                
Rich Greenberg - N6LRT - 310-649-0238 - richg@hatch.socal.com
From: greg@netcom.com (Greg Bullough)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Whole-House Fan Choice is Not a Breeze
Date: 4 Sep 92 19:32:57 GMT
Article-I.D.: netcom.pzmn67l.greg
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest)

In article <25860029@hpcvra.cv.hp.com> tedb@hpcvra.cv.hp.com (Ted Beers) writes:
>
>  I'm planing to install a whole-house fan in my house under
>  constructions as an alternative to air conditioning (and short-term,
>  as a way to exhaust the toxic new-house material fumes).  The advice
>  available locally is frighteningly scarce, so I was hoping the net
>  might offer some input.
>
>  I've narrowed down the manufacturer choice to Nutone or Broan, and
>  previous net wisdom has suggested that a direct-drive model is
>  preferable to a belt-drive one.  Here's the problem:  The largest size
>  direct-drive fans push around 5000 CFM (cubic feet per minute), which
>  the manufacturers claim is suitable for a 1600 sq. ft. house, but
>  our new one-story house is 2450 sq. ft.!  So will I be causing
>  problems using an undersized fan, or does this simply mean it'll take
>  a few more minutes to change the air in the house?  Other comments?  I
>  really feel like I'm trying to make this decision without sufficent
>  information.
 
Direct drive fans are cheaper. They have that, and really only that,
going for them. Oh, yes, they're a bit easier to install, theoretically.
 
Belt-drives are quieter. And more expensive.
 
But if the application calls for it, use one of sufficient capacity. 
You might also consider two smaller fans. These puppies are kind of 
noisy, and it might be nice to have it cooling the back of the house
further, while being able to hear yourself think in the front of the
house. Or vice-versa.
 
I'm using a 36" Nutone direct-drive on 1000 square foot house. I
enjoy the excess capacity and would really miss it if it were gone.
 
Also, having a large enough fan allows you to run it on "LOW," which
is much quieter. As is the belt-drive, anyway.
 
You have a big house.
 
Get a big fan.
 
Remember, what you're saving is the cost of countless little box-fans.
 
And also: don't be tempted by the off-brand fans in the discount houses.

Remember, this piece of electrical equipment is going in your attic.

Greg
From: ec@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Edgar Circenis)
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 14:41:51 GMT
Subject: Re: Ceiling problems when installing new drywall
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house

In misc.consumers.house, jhp@sactoh0.sac.ca.us (Jim H. Puga) writes:

> I'm going to be tearing out the walls in a house and installing new
> sheetrock.  The ceiling is staying and this is where the big question
> comes in.
> 
> How do I tape the corners when the ceiling already has texture on it?
> 
> When I tape, the current texture on the ceiling is going to present a
> problem(lumpy tape, won't adhere, etc).  How do I get around this
> problem?  I'm going to retexture the ceiling so doing anything to the
> ceiling isn't a problem.  I'm worried about the tape and feathering of
> the joint compound not working on the ceiling.

I had a similar problem when I finished my basement.  I had to join a new
section of wall to an old (already textured) section.  The texture on the
walls was the splattered drywall compound type.

To make a long story short, it was a piece of cake.  You just have to put
the joint compound on thick enough to fill the dips between the texture.
Then, you have to feather the joint out quite a ways.  Of course, you will
have to re-texture the entire area.

If you have a popcorn ceiling, you could try to scrape off the popcorn for
about 6-12" from the edge.

Many building supply stores sell inexpensive texture touch up kits which
consist of a reservoir of texture material and a small pump-like sprayer.
These work well for both popcorn and drywall compound texture application.

I don't know what kind of ceiling texture you have (there are as many types
as you can imagine, and then some...), but I hope this helps.

Edgar
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: cab@col.hp.com (Chris Best)
Subject: Re: Dryer ventillation problem
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 22:11:51 GMT
Organization: your service

> You could install a blast gate in the dryer vent hose.  You'd have
> to remember to open it when you ran the dryer.  Or you could set it
> up with a relay to detect when the dryer was drawing current, and
> open automagically.  Blast gates can be gotten at tool catalogs
> that sell dust collection equipment (Grizzly is one such).  The
> electronics for the automagic option could  be got at Radio Shriek.
> 
> My vent fan for my bathroom has a one way flapper valve in it that
> would be about the right size for a dryer.  A cheap vent fan can be
> got for about $10.

----------

As this is somewhere between questionable and downright illegal, you
might mention it to the proper authorities.  You'd then save the
10 bux, but risk alienating the landperson(s).  Including, maybe,
a rent increase of more than $10 to cover any required repairs.
Depends on how you feel about the problem and the people.
From: tavares@danville (Jack Tavares)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Computer programs for designing dream home
Date: 31 Aug 92 20:17:33 GMT
Reply-To: tavares@ctron.com
Distribution: na

Thomas Busey (busey@milton.u.washington.edu) wrote:
: I'm looking for public domain or shareware software (preferably mac but pc ok) 
: to design floor plans- not architecture quality but something an architect
: could easily interprete.
: 
: I've seen programs like Design Your Own Home, but I'm too cheap (too poor,
: actually) to buy them.  I would like opinions on them, however, if people 
: have used them.
: 
: Thanks
: Tom 
: busey@u.washington.edu

ditto

Jack Tavares	(603) 332-9400 x 1463 (603) 332-1019 (FAX)
Cabletron 	PO Box 5005 Rochester, NH 03867-0505
Disclaimer: Cabletron could care less!
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: wex@cs.ulowell.edu (Paul M. Wexelblat)
Subject: Re: 12 gauge vs 14 gauge wiring price
Originator: wex@bigmax.ulowell.edu
Reply-To: wex@cs.ulowell.edu
Organization: Univ. of Lowell CS Dept.
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 17:31:45 GMT



Alright, enough of this stuff

The original question was whether $2100 increase for going from 14 GA to
12 GA was reasonable.

I appreciate all the folks who thought that lights that dimmed because of
too much stuff on the circuit on a 14 GA branch wouldn't have dimmed
on a 12 GA line. and all the other discussion about irrelevant things, 

But are there any other folks out there who have (or have had)
electrician licenses?? My primary contention was that wiring
a house with 12 GA is harder and take longer than with 14 GA.

I have heard from a bunch of folks who like to say that there is
no difference in labor.  (Let them change a tyre on my 3/4 ton
pickup and tell me that it's the same as on their Toyota.)  I
would like to hear this from someone who's done a bunch of houses
with both.

(Off Soapbox)

Anyhow, I strongly prefer 12GA, I (personally) do not like the idea of
cheap 15A outlets on 20 feeds.  And, depending on the size of your house,
$2100 may be realistic.


For doubters, consider just the effort to strip 4 12GA conductors and
put them in a wire nut as opposed to 4 14 GA wires, then consider that
many 1 person pulls withe the moderately flexible 14 takes two folks
with 12 if there are any bends.  (Bigger boxes MAY be needed occasionally.)

One last thought (sorry Chris), Wiring with 12 ga should NOT reduce the number
of breakers needed (in general).  You should have just as many branches with 12
as you would with 14, the reason to use 12 is to reduce the load on each 
branch -- if you increased to 12, but also increased the length of each
branch to save breakers, you would be defeating the purpose.

[that's silly, porpoises don't have feet]

-- 
You are in a maze of twisty little passages, all alike.

	...Wex