HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: bzandrew@bbs1984.chi.il.us (Bill Zandrew)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Indigo snakes and filters
Date: 29 Aug 92 04:20:23 GMT
Organization: Not an Organization

In article <BtMH7L.13p.1@cs.cmu.edu>, tmohler+@cs.cmu.edu (Tim Mohler) writes:
>In article <bzandrew.01pt@bbs1984.chi.il.us> bzandrew@bbs1984.chi.il.us (Bill
Za
>ndrew) writes:
>>In article <66646@hydra.gatech.EDU>, gt6441c@prism.gatech.EDU (Jon Edwards )
>>writes:
>>>In article <BtGDG2.IvG.1@cs.cmu.edu> tmohler+@cs.cmu.edu (Tim Mohler)
writes:
>>>>
>>>>Perhaps I could set up a bowl with an aquarium filter somehow?
>>>>
>>>
>>>No aquarium filter, especially that size, will keep the water clean enough
>>>after a lizard "uses" it.  My Sailfin uses his water bowl exclusively.  
>>>When he gets bigger I will make a *large* terrarium with a big stream
running
>>>crossways, with a large filter system on it, plus aquatic plants and all
>>>that, but until then I change his water every two days.
>>>
>>>>
>>>>Tim
>>>
>>>Jon 
>>I didn't see the original part of this message.  You would not want to have
an
>>aquarium filtered watered system would you?  My dudes do everything in the
>>water, including drink.  I feel much beter about changing the water (unless
of
>>course you're talking about 100's of gallons).  
>
>
>Well, I'm not sure exactly what an aquarium filter does.  Does it sterilize
>the water? That's bascially what I'm looking for - something to sterilize
>and filter the water he drinks from. I figure yes, I change the water, but
>sometimes I'm not home for hours after he shits in the bowl, and I'm wondering
>whether he might be spectacularly dumb enough to drink out of it.
>
>He's dumb enough to pull all kinds of stunts... I don't trust him with this
>either.
>
>On another sad note, I still can handle him much. In fact, he tried to bite me
t
>he
>other day... sigh. It seems he gets more skittish the longer I have him. He's
>been really bad since I moved into my new apartment. Perhaps he is unsettled
>by the new surroundings.
>
>On the plus side, I bought my first snake last night - a garter snake.
>Figured it CAN'T be difficult to keep a garter, and the price was right -
>$10. So far he's been terrifically active, and pleasant, so I'm pleased.
>
>The pet store  told me he'd eat crickets, meal worms, flies, etc. Is this
>good for him? Furthermore, since buying crickets at 10 apiece is expensive,
>I was wondering if anyoen had the address of that cricket farm in Louisiana?
>
>On a final note: I'm close to moving my savanah into my BIG cage I built for
>him - 7'x4'x4' - and I'm looking for "natural" decor, but sand will be too
>heavy for that size cage. Do I really want to put anything "diggable" in his
>cage? Will he throw it out through the wire?
>
>Tim
I had a garter snake that was the meanest SOB in the world.  He was very large
and if held by the tail could climb up his body and bite the person holding
him.  He bit everyone that handled him and never became tame.
        (Most of the ones I had were pretty nice however, espicially if I had
them since they were young)
From: ab3n+@andrew.cmu.edu (Alexander Bernard Brands)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: iguanas and savannahs together
Date: 30 Aug 92 06:31:13 GMT
Organization: Senior, Biology, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA

I've had this iguana, Tongo, for about 14 months now.  He's doing great,
growing at a steady clip, has good coloring, and has tamed down nicely. 
This afternoon I found some great looking young savannah monitors for
sale.  I handled a couple and they are very tame.  They are about 5 or 6
inches snout to vent.  I'm wondering if I need a different cage for the
monitor, or if the two lizards can get along.
Here's all the relevant information and observations I can think of.

The iguana is about 9 inches snout-vent
The monitor is 5-6 inches

The cage is 4'X 2' X 2' and is also inhabited  by a 5 inch box turtle

The iguana is completely oblivious to the turtle and vice versa

The iguana spends a lot of time out of the cage, and when he's in there,
he spends almost all his time on a branch; i.e. almost no time on the
ground

I understand that savannah's stay on the ground


It seems to me that the two would probably ignore each other, especially
since they are different species.  Has anyone tried to keep these two
together?  Does anyone know of any problems?  The only difficulty I can
think of  is this;  the books indicate that iguanas prefer a humid
environment while savannahs like it dry.  Currently, the only thing I do
for the iguana is to keep a bowl of water in the cage, and when he
sheds, I spray him or take him swimming once a day.  Thus far he has had
no problem with shedding.
  Any other opinions/insight/stories from experience will be appreciated.

-Alex
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: pholland@iastate.edu (Paul J Hollander)
Subject: Re: habitat question
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames, IA
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 16:06:45 GMT

In article <1627@sousa.ltn.dec.com> wyoung@doggie.enet.dec.com (Warren Ray 
Young) writes:
>
>	I use pine shavings for my Eastern Hognose and my Corn. It
>	really does a good job on controlling odor and is easy
>	to keep clean. Both snakes love to burrow into the stuff.

Yes, but they breathe the sawdust, which is bad for them, and splinters
can get on food and be swallowed.  A better wood product is shredded
aspen, which isn't so dusty.

Paul Hollander    pholland@iastate.edu
Behold the tortoise: he makes no progress unless he sticks his neck out.


Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: srh3@Ra.MsState.Edu (Steven R. Hollis)
Subject: HELP!!! Sailfin has trouble opening one eye
Organization: Mississippi State University
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 20:58:10 GMT

I came home to day and saw my baby sailfin dragon and when he awoke, he 
seems to have trouble opening one eye.  It has been about 20 mins now.
I can see no evidence of mucous that has dried. and all membranes look clear
lately he has been a bit sluggish, is it normal for these lizards to 
lay around a lot???  Any help ASAP would be appreciated.

STeve

--
===============================================================================
Steve Hollis--Your friendly neighborhood zoology major
srh3@ra.msstate.edu
===============================================================================
From: pmb2@ellis.uchicago.edu (Peter Bell)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: transporting snakes across country...
Date: 1 Sep 92 15:59:58 GMT
Reply-To: pmb2@midway.uchicago.edu
Organization: University of Chicago Computing Organizations

In article <1992Sep1.092244.12457@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu> crchakford@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu writes:
>In article <920901032306_71162.3470_CHK259-4@CompuServe.COM>,
> 71162.3470@CompuServe.COM ("Peter P. Donohue") writes:

>>    3) packing them well and checking them in the hold.  Positive: go
>> with me, no timing problems.  Negative: who knows what goes on in
>> luggage compartment (may go through scanners, may get crushed, may not
>> be temperature controlled, etc.)

>        No hold of any airline I can think of is guranteed to be 
>pressurized, much less temperature controlled.  I'd have to advise
>STRONGLY against this.
>

>        Bite the Bullet, go air freight.  It's certainly the safest,
>least unnerving way to cary your pets.
>
>                        Craig.
When I inquired about this, the air freight  desk at I forget what airlaine
commenced checking passenger flights out.  Which meant that as far as I could
tell, they were planning on putting my snakes in the hold....  

In any event, it is often advised (at least for <12 hr flights) to refrigerate
reptiles before shipping them--cuts way down on their need for oxygen.
which is good, if they will be at 30,000 feet without pressure....

Is there an air freight technique that guarantees pressure?

Just wondering....

Peter (a different one..)
Xref: sparky rec.pets.herp:3199 rec.pets:2943
From: vmh@vmh.Eng.Sun.COM (Valerie Haecky)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp,sun.junk,rec.pets
Subject: Where can I buy large plastic containers/boxes ?
Followup-To: poster
Date: 1 Sep 1992 22:14:31 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems Inc., Mountain View, CA, USA
Distribution: ba
NNTP-Posting-Host: vmh

I am seeking to buy a 3' x 2' x ~1'(height) or larger plastic
container/storage box.tub.
Realtively sturdy, made of plastic or fiberglass/polyester, doesn't
need to have lid.

I have so far tried: Target, OSH, Home Depot, Pay Less, Toys R Us, Petco, TAP Plastics.
No success.

I suspect a store that carries construction stuff, or industrial
storing containers would have it. Anyone know such a place that
would sell retail ?

Valerie



--
                 __                               
     _______    /*_>-<       Valerie Haecky           _ ^---^ 
 ___/ _____ \__/ /           vmh@vmh.sun.com         <_|-----)> 
<____/     \____/                                       v---v 
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: bagus@netcom.com (Mark E. Ruedy)
Subject: Re: Mites!
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 92 04:12:59 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 

In article <16458@ucdavis.ucdavis.edu> nathan@charles.ucdavis.edu (Nathan Rollins) writes:
>
>
> Help! I'm sure this is a Frequently Asked Question, but somewhere my baby
>snake picked up some nasty bloodsucking mites. I'm fogging the house and
>her cage, but what do I do to get the ones that are already on her off?
>And should I put a mite-kill device (like for birds) in her cage? 
>Suggestions would be deeply appreciated!
>
>

I just had the same problem with one of my boas.  This snake is about 6'
long.  With a baby you should be very careful.
Anyway, what worked for me was puting the pest strip near the cage
(it lay on top of the air passage), bathing every night and cleaning 
out the cage frequently.  In about 4 days they were all gone.

I'm not sure where the mites came from, but I suspect some old newspapers.
I line the cage with newspaper and found a few mites in the stack.

good luck


mark

Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: srh3@Ra.MsState.Edu (Steven R. Hollis)
Subject: The very last of the sailfin updates
Organization: Mississippi State University
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 16:19:08 GMT

 Well, evidently Harvey's rejuvination was temporary.  I found him
dead this morning.  It looks as though he drowned.  He liked to rest
with his chin in the bubbles of the air pump of his "pond".
Guess he was a little TOO lazy.

Thanks for all the advice, and the answers to the stupid questions
over the past few weeks.

Steve

--
===============================================================================
Steve Hollis--Your friendly neighborhood zoology major
srh3@ra.msstate.edu
===============================================================================
From: mojo@reed.edu (a 1928 steel National)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Mites!
Date: 30 Aug 92 06:19:15 GMT
Organization: the Lotus Room


Be *really* careful about using pest strips to get rid of mites; make sure the
snake absolutely *cannot* come in contact with it, use only a little piece
(0.5"x3" suggested), and don't leave it in for more than about 24 hours;
they can cause potentially fatal liver damage.  (This is from the Herp Library
book on ball pythons.)

Of course, mites can't swim too well, so you might just submerge the snake
(allow a little room to breathe; all the mites will travel to the head, where
they can hopefully be washed off) in a light Betadine solution.

I've never had to deal with the little beggars, so this is all highly
theoretical.  Caveat emptor.

	NT
-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
     Nathan Tenny	...tektronix!reed!mojo	  mojo@reed.{UUCP || BITNET}
   "Mummies are embalmed, eviscerated corpses.  They don't walk." -the Doctor
			  OMMOX HODAEL KAMARA
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: datri@egsner.cirr.com (Anthony Datri)
Subject: Re: bringing herps into California
Organization: Central Iowa (Model) Railroad, Dallas, Tx.
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 23:02:17 GMT

>   Also, I have heard that CA limits the types of animals that are
>allowed (indiginous ones are limited).  Does anyone know what types,
>specifically, are limited.

I haven't heard much about the reasoning behind their laws, but I suspect
that it's this way to prevent depopulation.  It's just a hunch, but I'll
guess that California King Snakes are one of the affected species 8^)

One was featured on @i(Home Improvement), though...I wonder if that's either
produced outside CA, or if they have some sort of entertainment permit like
Dallas has with boids (grumble).
From: pholland@iastate.edu (Paul J Hollander)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Fast Food Return
Date: 4 Sep 92 15:44:53 GMT
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames, IA

In article <119310013@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM> ruska@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Dave Ruska) 
writes:
>In rec.pets.herp, rjohnson@shell.com (Roy Johnson) writes:
>
>> I don't know if I have good news or bad news.  Maybe both.
>> 
>> The good news is that putting a dead gerbil and my Ball Python in
>> a paper bag with holes punched in it as the Vosjoli book recommended
>> worked -- sort of.  This morning, I opened it up, and the gerbil had
>> been consumed and regurgitated.  Ugh.  I've heard of them throwing
>> up within a day or so if handled or kept too cool, but all in one
>> night?
>> 
>> I suspect that temperature was the problem.  I put the bag on the
>> heated portion of the cage, but it didn't feel as warm as usual this
>> morning -- it wasn't cold, but I don't know if it was up to the
>> recommended 85-90 degrees.
>> 
>
>My ball python ended it's 9 month old cerimonial "captive shock syndrome"
>fast by eating a dead gerbil.  (Deleted)

Without knowing the size of the snake and the size of the gerbil, I venture
to guess that the meal may have been too big for a first meal after a 
prolonged fast.  You might try again with a mouse sized gerbil.  Or if you 
picked the bag up unstead of opening it in the cage, that could have startled 
the ball enough to regurgitate.  You might repeat and leave the snake 
undisturbed in the bag.  A big drink just before feeding could cause 
regurgitation, too.  My 2 cents worth.

Paul Hollander    pholland@iastate.edu
Behold the tortoise: he makes no progress unless he sticks his neck out.
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: pholland@iastate.edu (Paul J Hollander)
Subject: Re: Baby Corn Snakes
Keywords: Corn Snake, Feeding
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames, IA
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 15:50:08 GMT

In article <16492@ucdavis.ucdavis.edu> nathan@charles.ucdavis.edu (Nathan Rollins) writes:
>
>  I had one that was stubborn about eating. I bought a Tupperware container,
>small size (about 1 quart) and punched holes in the lid, and put damp peat
>moss and vermiculite in it, and kept it warm (96-98 or so) and would give
>tiny tiny pinkies, leave them in there overnight and leave the cage totally
>undisturbed. That seemed to work pretty well.
>	Basically, keep em warm (the Corn Snake book reccomends, I think,
>98 degrees or so for babies) and let them have a place to hide, but not
>such a large cage that they don't encounter their food. Also, if you 
>are offering dead pinkies, cut a hole in the skull so there is a blood-
>scent to attract the snake.
> That's what worked for mine, anyway.

This is what I'd do, too, except I'd only keep them in the 82-84 F range.
I don't have McEarchern's corn snake book handy, but I've read it, and
I don't remember anything like a recommendation for 96-98 F.  My baby
corns and kings (several dozen) have eaten fine at 82-84 F.

Paul Hollander    pholland@iastate.edu
Behold the tortoise: he makes no progress unless he sticks his neck out.
From: voorhees@sdd.hp.com (Joe Voorhees)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Geckos
Date: 4 Sep 1992 15:27:59 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, San Diego Division
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: hpsdlm14.sdd.hp.com

In article <1992Sep4.003329.28742@gordian.com>, jim@gordian.com (Jim Van Vorst) writes:
|> In article <1992Aug31.222122.1070@kronos.arc.nasa.gov>, hall@kronos.arc.nasa.gov (Michael Hall) writes:
|> > Can anyone recommend a tropical gecko to keep in a 30 gallon tall
|> > terrarium with two very large tropical treefrogs?  I need a gecko that
|> > likes temperatures from 60-88 with medium humidity, and that won't inflict
|> > wounds on the frogs, and that won't lose its tail or its life when the
|> > treefrogs pounce on it.
|> > 
|> > Leopard geckos are out, because they are desert dwellers.  Tokay geckos
|> > and Egyptian geckos are out, because they some of the most vicious animals
|> > on earth.
|> > 
|> > Any suggestions?
|> > 
|> > Or would this be like mixing monitors and iguanas?  Should I just forget
|> > about it?
|> > 
|> > -- 
|> > Michael Hall            \ "Advantage is irrelevant.
|> > NASA Ames Research Center\  Countermeasures are futile."
|> > hall@ptolemy.arc.nasa.gov \  -Borg card counter
|> 
|> How about a pretty green Madagasgar Day Gecko?  Sounds like they'd fit
|> right in.  They're cute and cuddly lookin' but have delicate skin so you
|> can't play with them or anything but they like humidity.

True to some degree. Not all species of Phelsuma live in a humid 
environment, a good example being P.Standingi. Additionally, most Day Geckos
have a hard time if the temp gets down to 60 degrees F. Depending upon the
size of the tree frogs there *may* be some compatable species; if the frogs
are small, P.Quadriocellata should be okay as they do not require higher
temps and do need about 80% r.h.

Joe Voorhees
Hewlett-Packard
voorhees@sdd.hp.com
From: gt6441c@prism.gatech.EDU (Jon Edwards )
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Indigo snakes and filters
Date: 27 Aug 92 17:06:05 GMT
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology

Unless you spend MEGA bucks on some state of the art water filter system,
I doubt any type of filter will keep a small amount of water clean after
a lizard or snake craps in it.  Aquarium filters utliize vaious nitrobacters(??)
to break down ammonia and nitrite to nitrAtes.  Somehow I doubt all of that
will be effective for the type of polution created by reptile droppings
in water.  Now, a *large* water 'tank' with plenty of aquatic and bog plants
would probably do good, but that creates other problems too (like keeping
the plants alive).  

Jon
From: mojo@reed.edu (still dead after all these years)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: transporting snakes across country...
Date: 1 Sep 92 05:58:37 GMT
Article-I.D.: reed.1992Sep1.055837.1952
Organization: Okefenokee Glee & Perloo Union


Supposedly (from Lou Boyd's column, of all things) snakes don't survive
being X-rayed.  You might not want to take them in a carry-on!
-- 
Ya know, Reed is a pretty boring place if you're the only one in it.
	- David Thomas (florp@reed)
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
but I am...Nathan Tenny / mojo@reed.{UUCP || BITNET} / ...tektronix!reed!mojo
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: pmb2@ellis.uchicago.edu (Peter Bell)
Subject: Re: UV light subsistitutes (help)
Reply-To: pmb2@midway.uchicago.edu
Organization: University of Chicago Computing Organizations
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 01:07:53 GMT

In article <67027@hydra.gatech.EDU> gt6441c@prism.gatech.EDU (Jon Edwards ) writes:
>That was a very interesting article.  It said that "mushroom type"
>self ballasted mercury lamps were good.  What exactly is a "mushroom
>type?"  I wonder if the Mercury Vapor lamps sold at K-Mart (~$45 I think)
>are the same things.
>
>Jon

Jon--

I thought the most important sentence from the excerpt was
"Considering the potential risk posed by UVB bulbs (the "mushroom type") to 
reptiles and their caretakers, a combination of broad-spectrum fluorescent
bulbs and long-wavelength (UVA, or black light) bulbs is probably the most
practical starting point for husbandry of a species with unknown requirements."

Be damned careful with the UVA bulbs!  

If you need UVA, though, check the reference that tested a range of bulbs 
to see if the metal halides sold by whomever seem to be generic versions of 
a UVA bulb.  You might consider buying a separate timer for the UVA bulb, so
you can be sure that only half an hour a day of that light is on!

The whole article is good though.  Most of the topics covered are in similar 
detail and well-referenced.
From: collum@paradise1.ncd.com (Jim Collum)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Jackson Chameleons
Date: 31 Aug 92 16:47:25 GMT
Organization: Network Computing Devices, Mt. View, CA, USA


We were at the local Reptile swap meet this last weekend (lots and lots of herps!!!) and finally broke down and bought a couple Jackson Chameleons. We have a male and female cohabitating and we've made sure they have *plenty* of room in their cage.  So far they've been doing ok together.

The male is much more outgoing, and doesn't have any problem with crawling onto a hand if placed near him. They both started eating (until they were full) crickets when we placed a number of them in their cage.  The male, however, has an unusual attraction.  Jill (my wife and keeper of the lizards, i keep the snakes) had the male on her arm and he suddenly focused on her face. He then made a beeline (well... as much of a beeline that a chameloeon can make :^) ) up her arm and then stopped.  She turned her 



head away and said that he was going to try to 'catch' her eye.  I told her to stop being silly and looked at him. He then focused on my face and looked as though he was going to try and catch my eye with his tongue.  I put him back in his cage and put my face to the glass. From the far corner of the cage, he saw my face, quickly came forward as far as he could, then shot his tongue directly at my eyeball. Very fast!!!... Fortunatly, there was a piece of glass between us.  Since then he still goes after cr



ickets, but with nowhere near as much enthusiasum as when someone has their face close to the glass. 

Has anyone else seen this behaviour? (or actually be nailed by one....?)


			jim
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: tmason@ccscola.Columbia.NCR.COM (Tim Mason)
Subject: Corn Snakes have eaten
Keywords: Pinkies, Corn Snakes
Organization: NCR Corp, CCSD, Columbia, SC
Date: Wed, 02 Sep 92 13:35:20 GMT

OK everybody, stop mailing me advice on my Corn snake feeding problem.
Your advice worked.

For those of you who just tuned in...

I purchased two very young Corns 2 1/2 weeks ago, and neither would eat
the pinkies I offered.

Thanks to Valerie Haecky and Nathan Tenny.  They gave some advice about
not disturbing the snake and feeding it in a dark secure place.  Good advice.
I was already doing this but failed to mention it in my post.

Muchos gracias to Paul Hollander and otter.  Splitting the skulls of the 
pinkies is what did the trick.  Warning:  Gross part follows...

I thawed two pinks, cut through their skulls to about a third of the way down
with my pocket knife, and squeezed some fluid through the opening.  I placed
the snakes in deli cups with paper towels in them with the pinkies at the
bottom of each cup.  This morning I had two snakes with lumps in the middle.

To otter, I think the high 90's is too hot for the snakes.  What book did
you read this in?


-- 
---------------------------
Tim Mason
Tim.Mason@ccscola.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM
From: wells@thathost.uucp (Don Wells)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: green tree snake query
Date: 25 Aug 92 17:11:42 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Network Equipment Technologies

In article <1992Aug16.171027.4318@midway.uchicago.edu> busc@midway.uchicago.edu writes:
>I'm presently looking into purchasing a green tree snake which I once read somewhere was a good snake for the inexperienced to purchase... any comments, suggestions would be greatly appreciated
>
>
>J.


Please make sure it is not a green tree boa. They have real bad
attitudes.