HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: watson@ccsf.caltech.edu (Stephen H. Watson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Stuck fermentation?
Date: 7 Jan 1993 22:51:02 GMT
Organization: CCSF Caltech, Pasadena, CA
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: sampson.ccsf.caltech.edu

My buddy and I are brewing our third batch of beer, using
Papazian's Toad Spit Stout recipe (p. 207 TNCJOHB).  We
followed the recipe exactly.  We rehydrated the yeast
according to Papazian p. 82 (boil water, cool, use sanitized jar,
rehydrate yeast, no sugar).  After mixing the wort with
cold water in the primary, the temperature only went to
about 86-88 before I got too tired and pitched and went to
bed (1:00 a.m. or so).  After a day and half or so, there
were no signs of fermentation in the airlock.  We gave up waiting,
not wanting the wort to sit too long and pick up an infection, and
rehydrated another packet of yeast using our (previously
successful) method w/ sugar.  When we went to pitch, there
was a small amount of krausen in the fermenter.  We said,
"**** it!" and pitched the yeast.  Now it's going great guns,
which makes us happy, but we were wondering what could have
happened?  Our ideas;

1)  We mangled the yeast in the rehydration
2)  The wort was too hot and killed it when it was pitched
3)  It was just ready to take off when we gave up
4)  Incomplete seal on the fermenter (plastic bucket type)
	

Anyone have any ideas?  We're not worried, and we're relaxed,
but we want our homebrew to come out right...

Thanks!

Stephen Watson
stephen@crank.jpl.nasa.gov

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Internet: stephen@crank.jpl.nasa.gov
	  stephen@tone.jpl.nasa.gov
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: dab@donner.cc.bellcore.com (ballard,david a)
Subject: Re: Trisodiumphosphate (TSP)
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 93 13:02:13 GMT

In article <HAK-110193161757@fp1-cc-21.uoregon.edu> HAK@oregon.uoregon.edu writes:
> >Is this the same TSP that painters use (ie. can I buy the stuff at the
> >hardware store?) 
> 
> 


tsp is great stuff.  i get it at the home depot in one-pound boxes 
for less that two bucks per box.  i keep a big (32 gal?) garbage can 
in the basement full of water and 2 pounds of tsp.  a couple of days
before i'm ready to bottle, i dump a couple of cases of empties into
the can, wait a day or two and pull out clean, shiny, label-free 
bottles.  a quick rinse and a spin in the dishwasher and i'm ready to
go.  be careful with this stuff, though, it will eat through anything.
always wear gloves when retrieving the bottles from the muck.


later
dab


=========================================================================
dave ballard	
dab@cc.bellcore.com 
=========================================================================

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: mwithers@pb.serum.kodak.com (Mark Witherspoon (x37360))
Subject: Help!!, Too much camden??
Followup-To: mwither@serum.kodak.com
Organization: Clinical Products Division, Eastman Kodak Company
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 15:18:40 GMT


HELP!!!!!!!!

	I am trying to make my first batch of wine from local grapes.  I crushed out 
about 2 gallons of must, then I threw in 8 (yes, eight) camden tablets into the
must and mixed.  About 6 hrs later, I pitched my yeast into the mix.  All weekend
I mixed the batch about every 4 hours.  Now on Monday morning, I have a soured smelling
non-active batch.  What did I do wrong, (I know... too much camden)???  What can
I do to get this going (it will be a nice sweet rose' if it finished) or pitch the 
whole batch and get a can of rose' consentrate???


Mark Witherspoon (mwithers@serum.kodak.com)  <=== reply here not the header!!



-- 
##############################################################################
Sent by: Mark Witherspoon            # The opinions expressed here are of my #
Reply to: mwithers@serum.kodak.com   # own, not of my employer...            #
##############################################################################
From: mark@verdix.com (Mark Lundquist)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: flame off, OK?
Date: 11 Jan 93 17:57:01 GMT
Article-I.D.: verdix.9515
Organization: Verdix Western Operations, Aloha  OR

Yesterday I posted an article about the unappealing sounds of the
names "arf" and "gak".

If you have read that article and are getting ready to send me some
flamage over it, please stop right now and read this carefully:

IT...WAS...A...JOKE !!!

I've gotten a couple of flames already -- incidentally none from gak or
js (a.k.a "arf", I know what it stands for, thank you kindly). I take
full responsibility, I should have included at least one ":-)" for
those who forgot to take their humor pill.  Clearly, the humor wasn't
as obvious as I intended, and some people actually thought I was
serious, and took me to the woodshed for being uptight about other
people's usernames.  I just though we could use a little injection of
humor, that's all.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: rp9780@medtronic.COM (Rudyard A K Porter)
Subject: Re: co2 cylinders?
Organization: Medtronic, Inc.
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8]
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 20:13:51 GMT


All-Fire Test in Minneapolis, Minnesota sells a bunch of different
sizes for real cheap.  5lb tanks for $30 and a real bargain 15lb tank
for $35.  No regulators or anything else, though.


--
*******************************************************************************
Rudyard Anderson Knox Porter             *  Life's but a stumbling shadow,
rp9780@medtronic.com                     *  Full of sounds of beer glasses,
Minneapolis, Minnesota                   *  Signifying everything!  
                                         *     1st draft, MacBeth
******************************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Subject: Re: Size and type of kettle?
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean  VA
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 14:01:52 GMT

In article <9048@lhdsy1.lahabra.chevron.com>
 tgorb@rrc.chevron.com (Joe Gorberg) writes:

>I'm about to begin my 1st batch.  I have everything I need except for a
>kettle.  What size ( 4,5,6,... gal) kettle and material (stainless, 
>aluminum,...) should the kettle be made from?  Any suggestions on places
>to buy one in the East Bay?

The bigger the better.  I would recommend about 8 gallons, which means you 
can use the same size if you go to all-grain 5 gallon batches.

If money is no issue, get thick stainless steel with a lid from a restaurant 
supply store, but expect to spend *at least* $100, closer to $200 if you 
don't shop around.

If money is an issue, you can get ceramic-on-steel pots (often sold as crab 
pots or lobster pots) of that size, though watch out for weak handles.  
Other options include checking out restaurant supply auctions (restaurants 
regularly go out of business and auction off stuff).

John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own
Fidonet:  1:109/131  Internet:  jdecarlo@mitre.org
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: birkelan@adtaz.sps.mot.com (Joel Birkeland)
Subject: Steinbart Extract
Reply-To: birkelan@adtaz.sps.mot.com (Joel Birkeland)
Organization: Motorola SPS
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 15:55:13 GMT


I just bought a 7 lb. bottle of Steinbart extract for my next batch.
It looks a lot thinner than the canned extracts I have used before.
Does this mean I should use more extract in my wort than before?

Thanks for your help.

Joel Birkeland
birkelan@adtaz.sps.mot.com
From: mark@verdix.com (Mark Lundquist)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: dark beer
Date: 8 Jan 93 20:27:30 GMT
Article-I.D.: verdix.9505
Organization: Verdix Western Operations, Aloha  OR

In article <1993Jan07.140128.33033@rchland.ibm.com> JamesWhite@vnet.ibm.com writes:
>Now if I can figure out why my pale ale is so dark when I only used chrystal malt
>(40 degrees L) and some light dry malt extract.

I tried e-mail but it bounced, so...



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Message-Id: <9301081950.AA11302@picard.vwo.verdix.com>
To: JamesWhite@vnet.ibm.com
Subject: Re: dark beer
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
In|Reply|To: <1993Jan07.140128.33033@rchland.ibm.com>
Organization: Verdix Western Operations, Aloha  OR
Date: Fri, 08 Jan 93 11:50:53 -0800
From: mark@verdix.com


In article <1993Jan07.140128.33033@rchland.ibm.com> you write:

>Now if I can figure out why my pale ale is so dark when I only used chrystal m
alt
>(40 degrees L) and some light dry malt extract.
> 
>Cheers!

1)   I assume you already know that Pale Ale is not supposed to be truly
     "pale"!  But it's worth mentioning, because if a person expected a
     pale color they would probably label the coppery color of most Pale Ales
     as "dark".

2)   If it really is too dark for a Pale Ale, then your wort may be
     carmelizing during the boil.  Doing a full boil, where you boil
     the entir volume of wort rather than boiling a concentrated wort
     and then diluting at the end, can help this.  In any case, limit
     extract boils to 1 hour.

Happy brewing!
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: pcj1@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu (Pierre Jelenc)
Subject: Re: Trisodiumphosphate (TSP)
Reply-To: pcj1@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu (Pierre Jelenc)
Organization: Columbia University
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 04:07:02 GMT

In article <9519@verdix.verdix.com> mark@verdix.com (Mark Lundquist) writes:
>In article <HAK-110193161757@fp1-cc-21.uoregon.edu> HAK@oregon.uoregon.edu writes:
>> more [deletia] (love that word)

>
>Iodophor (an iodine and phosphoric acid solution) is a good sanitizing
>agent, and it doesn't require a rinse.  I was seriously looking into

The "phor" in iodophor comes from the Greek "phore" (to carry). An
iodophor is a chemical combination that "carries" iodine (iodine is
insoluble in water) and additionally sequesters most of it. Only a
very small amount of iodine is "free", regardless of the total
concentration, because of the equilibrium

Iodophor = iodine + carrier

The advantage of having only a small amount of iodine free is that it
reduces its toxicity, the staining it causes, and the hypersensitivity
reactions that some people experience with neat iodine.

While there may be phosphoric acid in some iodophors, I think that
many if not most are acidified with HCl (and some are not acidic at
all; a low pH is not necessary, though it potentiates the activity
against some germs - I don't remember which).

Pierre

Pierre Jelenc                        pcj1@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu 
                                    Columbia University, New York
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Subject: Re: Help! Stuck Fermentation or what?
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean  VA
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 17:19:23 GMT

In article <1993Jan4.150241.29675@midway.uchicago.edu>
 hasn@midway.uchicago.edu (Sheheryar Hasnain) writes:

>I just brewed my first all-grain batch and everything looked 
>good until the next morning (about 16-20 hrs after pitching
>the yeast).  The vigorous fermentation happened at approx
>8 hours and lasted all night.  And then nothing!  Or at least 
>very little (a bubble every 10 secs or so).

I simply advise checking the S.G..  If it is in the expected range, then 
fermentation is complete.  If it is still too high, something happened to 
abort your fermentation--ask again.

John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own
Fidonet:  1:109/131  Internet:  jdecarlo@mitre.org
From: birmingh@fnalo.fnal.gov (Phillip J. Birmingham)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: First batch!
Date: 10 Jan 93 13:25:52 -0600
Organization: Deep Thirteen
NNTP-Posting-Host: fnalo.fnal.gov


         Started my first batch last night. Hopefully, it will be an India
    Pale Ale (although it might be crap, see below.) 

         Anyway, I used 6.6 lbs of Northwestern Amber extract, and boiled
    it for 45 min with 4 oz of Fuggles hops (no alpha analysis on those) in
    3 gal of water. 

         Finishing hops were 1 oz of Cascade, steeped for 25 min. I chilled
    the wort and added it to the 2.5 gal of water in the fermenter. 

         I pitched the rehydrated yeast (Whitbread Ale) at around 60
    degrees, and it's now fermenting at around 65 degrees.

         (I didn't have a sample jar, so I have no idea what the initial
    gravity was.)

         My worry is this: I scooped some 85-degree wort out of the kettle
    for a starter. I had sanitized the measuring cup, then set it on the
    counter, then a few minutes later I scooped the wort out. Since the
    counter was clean, is my risk of infection very high?

-- 
 Phillip J. Birmingham   birmingh@fnal.fnal.gov  
 I don't speak for Fermilab, although my mouth is probably big enough...
From: bfbrown@media.mit.edu (Brian F. Brown)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: All-grain and hard cider questions...
Keywords: Brewing, Beer, Cider, Grain
Date: 11 Jan 93 02:04:24 GMT
Organization: MIT Media Laboratory

Having brewed about 8 extract batches, I am securing to equipment to
switch to all grain.  I was wondering how people feel about sparging; i.e.
how many times, if any, should one recycle sparge water - running it
through the grain bed again and again?

I also have another question(s) for my fellow brewers who have made hard
cider:  After putting in the camden tablets and letting them sit for a day,
I pitched two gallons with shampagne yeast and two with wine yeast. They 
were slowly but steadily active for the next month, up until when I left 
school for break in mid Dec.  Now the fermentation has subsided, there is 
a slight sediment in all the containers, and I am wondering if it is time to
rack to a secondary or bottles, which kind of bottles to use, and how much 
priming sugar to use (I am carbonating 1 gallon of each type = 4 different
styles).  It would be cool to bottle in wine/shampagne bottles, and I have
2 cases of empty Cook's shampagne bottles, the tops of which do not fit
crown bottle caps.  I could get beer bottles, but I don't want to.  My
questions
are as follows:

a) Is my cider done fermenting completely, or should I put it into 
secondaries?

b) How much sugar per gallon of cider to sparkle it?

c) How should I bottle it?

d) Is the wine stuff ready to be drunk now?

Thanks all,

BB
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From:  Dean Vogler
Subject: Sparging Problems?
Organization: AA
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 12:33:23 GMT
Followup-To: rec.crafts.brewing

Hi, I've just completed my first all-grain batch after having done a few
reasonably successfull extract batches.  Besides taking all day to perform
the
task, my only problem (hopefully) was during sparging.  I've read Papazian
and Miller several times on this subject, but I don't think they do a good
job describing what happens, IMO.  Let me describe what I did and why.

I made a bucket-in-bucket lauter-tun (Zapap??), and when it came time to
sparge
I wasn't quite sure how to start it.  The gap between the buckets was
minimal
(about 2 inches) but I filled it with hot sparge water anyways (I really
don't
understand why this needs to be done).  Getting the mash into the tun was
kind
of messy.  I simply dumped it into it as carefully as possible, all at
once,
although in retrospect I think I should have used a Pyrex pitcher and scoop
it from the mashing kettle to the tun.  Once the whole mash was in there
for
a couple of minutes I turned the nozzle on full.  I collected the first
gallon
or so, stopped the flow, and recirculated it.  Since the color of the
runnings
after 1 or so gallons seemed to be the same (although not clear), I just
had
to assume the filter bed was ready.  I let the mash water get filtered, and
when it was close to the end I started dumping the sparge water into it. 
This
was done until all 5 gallons were completed.  I then started to boil,
thinking
it was done.

After 20 minutes, I was going to clean up the tun, but since I left some
residual sparge water in the tun which I did not collect, I thought I'd 
take a look at it by dispensing it.  These runnings were much clearer than
before.  When I looked in the main wort supply, it was obvious that it was
quite cloudy, you could see the particles in suspension.  So I refiltered
the whole shebang through the tun, and I must say that it came out clearer
this time (but not completely).  I had a decent (1 inch) level of cold
break, or crap, the next morning, at which time I pitched.

So, my question is, how do I sparge next time?  Does anyone have any
practical advice on the procedure (it's gotta be better than the
literature)?
What level of cloudiness is acceptable?  Incidentally, I'm shooting for
a German Pils so it was quite pale.  I'm guessing I should have waited alot
longer before beginning to drain, or that one simply must recirculate alot
of wort before collecting it.

Dean Vogler
From: mark@verdix.com (Mark Lundquist)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Racking to Secondary
Date: 8 Jan 93 22:15:23 GMT
Article-I.D.: verdix.9507
Organization: Verdix Western Operations, Aloha  OR

In article <726512417.AA00000@blkcat.UUCP> Polly.Goldman@p2.f615.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Polly Goldman) writes:
>One suggestion for those of you who aren't sure that there's any point to
>racking to a secondary fermenter----
>Taste your trub when you finally do get your beer off it.
>If you like the taste of it, then you probably don't need to worry about its
>flavor transferring to your beer.  
> (etc.)

Just out of curiosity, how do you define "trub"?  Do you mean "the
stuff on the bottom after I rack to the secondary", or do you mean
the stuff that would settle out of the wort even if you never pitched
yeast (i.e. hot&cold break)?

If it's the former, then maybe it is the yeast that you find nasty
tasting.  As John DeCarlo pointed out, there's still plenty of yeast
in the beer even if you rack off of the "spent" yeast.  If it's the
hot&cold-break material, then why wait until the beer is in the middle
of fermenting before separating the trub?  I would think that the less
time spent on the trub the better...therefore, you should rack as soon
as possible -- that is, as soon as the trub has settled.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: hamilton@miki.pictel.com (Charlie Hamilton)
Subject: Re: Trip to england.
Organization: PictureTel Corporation
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 19:10:58 GMT

In article <726469350.AA00000@blkcat.UUCP> Pat.Goulding@f131.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Pat Goulding) writes:
>Due to unexpected price reductions in fares from Boston to London,
>my SO and I are going to be spending a week in England starting 1/18.
>Probably 2 days in London then outta town - Wales? Leeds? 
>We've done Scotland.  We plan to stay in B&B's and buy an updated 
>CAMRA guide as soon as we hit town.
>If anyone who's asked for this info in the past could Email it to me,
>or if anyone has got suggestions (we have NO itinerary so far) it would be
>much appreciated (yes, I have the PUBLIST info).  All About Beer had a 
>pubcrawl article in the Nov/Dec 1991 issue (Sept/Oct?) but I can't find
>anyone who has the back issues. 
>Thanks again! w/o this conference I'd be lost :-)
>
>"stringbeans to Utah..."

In London, you can visit the Fuller's or
Young's breweries. Call ahead, because they only do tours by appointment.
I did the Fuller's tour, and we were lucky enough to tag along with
a bunch of lazy government hacks (i.e. civil servants), who were fun
as hell to drink with. We were drinking ESB on tap, fresh from the
brewery. Great time. I didn't get a chance to go to Young's.

Also in London, you should check out the Firkin pubs, which are almost
always brewpubs. They have names like "Fox & Firkin", "Fart & Firkin",
etc. They actually market extract kits in the US, but I've never tried
it.

I also visited the Eldridge Pope brewery, but I can't remember where
it was. Somewhere south of York, I think, or maybe around Bath. That
place was interesting, because they ferment in these big open vats, that
are exposed to the outside air. In fact, they had up nets to keep the
pigeons from flying in and shitting in the beer. This is the place where
they make Thomas Hardy Ale. They wouldn't give us any on the tour, though.

Have fun. I did.

Charlie (hamilton@pictel.com)

P.S. Like the Zappa reference "Bust your ass...."
From: tgorb@rrc.chevron.com (Joe Gorberg)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Size and type of kettle?
Date: 12 Jan 93 00:12:12 GMT
Reply-To: tgorb@rrc.chevron.com
Organization: Chevron, Richmond, California

I'm about to begin my 1st batch.  I have everything I need except for a
kettle.  What size ( 4,5,6,... gal) kettle and material (stainless, 
aluminum,...) should the kettle be made from?  Any suggestions on places
to buy one in the East Bay?

Thanks.

Joe Gorberg
tgorb@rrc.chevron.com

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: gburton@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Garland O Burton)
Subject: it ain't poison!
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 17:04:11 GMT

since i've drank half of the first batch and am still alive, i 
would have to say that it's been a major success.  i am now finding 
out about the flavor changes as the days go by.

at 4-7 days after bottling the brew was undercarbonated and sweet.

i brought the bottles out of the too cold basement (53F) and let 'em 
set at 60-65F for a few days.  

now the carbonation is right, and the taste is somewhat sour, but good.

will the sourness mellow with time, or get worse?  why?

i'll take a bottle to the brew shop attendant and see what he thinks.

time to start the second batch.  actually i should have started when i
emptied the carbouy, but i wanted to see if i had any major probs.

the recipe was...

6.6lb m&f stout syrup
3lb dark malt extract powder
1/2 lb dark roast barley 
edme brewers yeast
3/4 cup light brown sugar to prime.

i am the one who mentioned having the 53F basement and had to bring
the secondary up to the 60-65 degree upstairs to get things happening
faster.  what if i used lager yeast in my stout?  would it work better at 
53 degrees?

cheers,

(sip)
gob!
-- 
gburton@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing