HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: psanders@ll.mit.edu (Pete Sanders)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: 87 Escort problem
Date: 21 Dec 92 14:04:24 GMT
Organization: MIT Lincoln Laboratory
Originator: psanders@ll.mit.edu (Pete Sanders)



	I have a question for escort owners out there. My Mom's Escort (1987,
fuel injected) has developed a rough idle within a matter of days. It now has
lost power and hesitates. I think it may be a sensor of some sort that has
failed. Maybe the oxygen sensor. If anyone has experienced the same problem,
and has found the cause, please E-mail me.


	Thanks

	Pete

	psanders@ll.mit.edu
From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Grease for Chrysler Vehicle
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 17:35:18 -0500

 LF> I need to know what is NLGL Grade 2 EP grease, it is stated in the 
 LF> Chrysler
 LF> Vehicle owner manual and this grease is also called Multi-Mileage 
 LF> grease.
 LF> What is this? I cannot find any grease with the same label in any auto 
 LF> stores.

Can't you buy it from your local Chrysler parts dept.? It can't be all that
expensive.



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: vince@bme.ri.ccf.org (Geoff Vince)
Subject: Gasoline (Petrol)
Organization: Biomedical Engineering, Cleveland Clinic Foundation
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1992 22:01:58 GMT

Can anyone give me the definition of Octane.  How is it calculated 
and what effects does running your vehicle on a higher octane fuel have on 
your engine (Eg. 96-100)

Thanks

Geoff
From: judy <judy@nepac.ucsd.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Plexiglas-type windows
Date: 22 Dec 1992 21:57:02 GMT
Organization: scripps inst. of oceanography
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: alfa.ucsd.edu
X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1.1d13
X-XXMessage-ID: <A75CCF2F15011B32@alfa.ucsd.edu>
X-XXDate: Tue, 22 Dec 92 13:57:03 GMT


Hi out there,  I'm new to this news stuff, and am working on an old
'65 Alfa  -- anyway, I removed the rear window, which is in perfect shape,
and want to put a lightweight "window" in  (the car will be a competition
car
hopefully when/if I ever finish it) -- the problem is that the window
isn't flat,
so - I am open to suggestions, on - (1) what materials are out there, how
obtainable,
how $$$, how easily-scratchable, how easy to cut, and (2) how to shape
the 
window to look like the original glass.
  Thanks for any/all suggestions you may have!
              - Judy
From: eeh@gasco.uucp
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Water in Fuel???
Date: 21 Dec 92 18:12:18 GMT
Article-I.D.: gasco.1992Dec21.181218.20187
Organization: Northwest Natural Gas, Portland, OR

How do you tell if you have water in your fuel tank?  My car has recently
started to "cutout" during steady driving.  Here locally they have started
using ethanol in the gas during the winter and I've heard of two potential 
problems, plugged fuel filters and water in your tank.  Also, if the problem
is water in the tank what is the recommended method for removal?  I've read 
that you shouldn't use drying agents containing methanol.

Eric Hutchinson 			
Northwest Natural Gas Company		
Phn (503) 226-2650 x1589   Fax 721-2518
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: xxkozak@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov (GEORGE KOZAK)
Subject: Re: Madness due to carb backfire
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
Date: 28 Dec 1992 23:44 EST  

In article <1992Dec28.235557.17681@mdd.comm.mot.com>, zintel@mdd.comm.mot.com (Mike Zintel) writes...
>In article <725573189.AA00000@blkcat.UUCP> Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory) writes:
>> MZ> The result of this is a beautifully working engine except for this 
>> MZ> !@#~$%^&*
>> MZ> carb pop. I am running out of ideas (and money). Any suggestions would 
>> MZ> be
>> MZ> appreciated.
>>
>>Can you set it to run a little richer?
> 
>The problem occurs just as the carb leaves the idle circuit and goes onto the
>main circuit. If I nail it (I assume the power enrichment circuit cuts in)
>it doesn't pop. I cannot enrich the main circuit. I have already increased the
>stroke of the accelerator pump. If this is the correct problem area, what 
>could be wrong with the carb that I missed rebuilding it (twice)?

    The problem seems to be in the idle transfer circuit.  This enrichment
path adds extra fuel to the air as you come off idle, but before the main
circuit flows.  By "stomping" on the gas, you're using the accellerator
pump to cover this lean condition.  By the time the engine uses the pump
shot, the main feed is taking over.  Increasing the pump shot is not curing
the problem, just helping make up for the lack of fuel.
    Something is preventing fuel flow from this circuit.  The transfer slot
is blocked somewhere either by debris, an incorrect gasket, or a reversed
gasket.  There has to be a path from the float bowl to the slot.  The slot
is postioned next to the idle feed hole and is a little taller.
    From your description, this is what it sounds like to me.

    George Kozak
    Kozak Racing
From: rvlabonte@mitre.org
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Tire gauges (was: Re: ME33A Laser wearing too fast...)
Date: 28 Dec 92 20:53:22 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: The MITRE Corporation

In article <1992Dec28.155914.3898@i88.isc.com> jeq@i88.isc.com (Jonathan E.
Quist) writes:
>NOTE: This article has been cross-posted between rec.motorcycles and
>rec.autos.tech, with North American distribution.  If your response
>pertains to only one group or local distribution, please edit the appropriate
>header line before posting a followup.
>
>In article <23005@drutx.ATT.COM> car377@druhi.ATT.COM (RogersC) writes:
>>Any bike's tire pressure (measured with an *accurate* gauge) after the tire
>
>Any suggestions where to get an accurate gauge?  Everything I see for sale
>retail is the same old junk.  In theory, all but the cheapest rod-type
>gauges (is there a name for these?) should be relatively accurate,
>since they depend only on the geometry of the thing.  My wife, unfortunately,
>insists she can only read dial-type gauges; those I've seen have been
>pretty cheesy, and I don't want to spend $20 for a good one unless it can
>handle glove-box temperature extremes without dying...
>-- 
>Jonathan E. Quist                              INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation
>jeq@i88.isc.com  '71 CL450-K4 "Gleep", DoD #094        Naperville, IL
>                Celebrate the winter holiday of your choice by
>                  offering your hand to someone who needs it.
>
Why don't you look at some of the analog gauges that are available for auto
racing.  The one that I use at the track is 0-60 PSI, has a leak-down button
and works accurately at all temperatures.  If it can take the abuse at the
track it can susrvive your glove-compartment.  The one that I bought is $25.89
at Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies, the protective cover is $5.95.  Pegasus's
phone #414-782-0880 Central Time.  
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: pburke@vms.macc.wisc.edu (Peter Burke, MIC, 608-263-7744)
Subject: Re: Bent engine mounts in a jeep Wrangler???
Organization:  University of Wisconsin Academic Computing Center
Distribution: usa
Date: 26 DEC 92 13:12:57    

>>Any experiences on how violent jumps can affect Jeep 
>>Wranglers (1.8l 4cyl engine and 31" tires on stock suspension).
> 
><snicker>
> 
>It beats the shit out of them.  I guess your friend found that out didn't he?
>When you try and fly any vehicle on factory suspension you're bound to break
>stuff.  Doesn't those 31" tires rub as well?

Not anymore ;-) - whatever was in the way in terms of plastic flares has 
been eaten away by his Mickey Thompsons.... 

By the way - my Toyota pickup has been flying  for the last 8 years and 
130,000 miles without any breakage (but i do have a 3" Downey suspension 
lift). The thing is not to get too high.  If you ever watch a slo-motion 
video of a truck going over a rough stretch of terrain at anywhere above 
10mph, you'll notice that it is always more or less in the air, and a 
good rut can propel you a foot or more above ground.  A truck should be 
able to handle that - otherwise the whole 4x4 hardware you buy is a 
joke. Not everyone buys a Ford Explorer to drop the kids off at school 
;-).   The next truck I am buying is a mid '70s Toyota Landcruiser, 
which is a vehicle that neer had rubber engine mounts....

Peter Burke                           | PBURKE@MACC.WISC.EDU 
Microcomputer Information Center      | PBURKE@Wiscmacc.BitNet
Madison Academic Computing Center     | 608-263-7744
1210 W. Dayton St., Madison, WI 53706 | 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: stevenh@cbnewsk.cb.att.com (steven.t.heinsius)
Subject: Re: Help with engine diagnosis
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 21:32:20 GMT


I would bet ==> no codes

And since i had a similar probem at 50k and 140k
i would go spend the 65 dollars and replace the
iginition pick up sensor  -- in the distrubutor 
( i think it is a hall effect switch)

Good Luck

Steve

ps i have an 86 gts 2.2 turbo 5spd
-----------------------------------
From article <1992Dec18.174608.26143@swlvx2.msd.ray.com>, by hsd@swl.msd.ray.com (HERBERT DASILVA):
> jnissen@austin.ibm.com () writes:
> 
>> Ralph Zottola writes:
> 
>>> I need help diagnosing an engine problem.  I have a 1987 Chrysler
>>> LeBaron with a 2.2L turbo engine.  When the engine is hot, it hesitates
>>> badly with normal acceleration.  It is fine cold, at idle hot or cold,
>>> with heavy acceleration, or at speeds above 55mph.  It seems as if it
>>> cuts out to shift when rpm is below 2500.  It does this in neutral as
>>> well if I race the engine.  I had the fuel pump and filter replaced one
>>> month ago.  The timing was also done at that time.
>>> 
>>> Any suggestions as to where I should begin to look?
>>> --ralph
> 
>   First thing to do is check the computer for codes.  It'll tell you if
>   anything that it monitors has any serious problems.  If you need
>   instructions, mail me.
> 
>   Automatic transmission then?  Fluid up to level?  (Check it hot with engine
>   idling, in Park)
> 
>   Sounds like a timing problem or ignition problem...
> 
>   Who did the timing?  A dealer or garage?  If garage, did they know they have
>   to disconnect a sensor to set the timing correctly?
> 
>>Have you checked the throttle position sensor?  A partially bad sensor may be
>>giving the computer a bad feedback signal and then your problems show up.
> 
>   You need a voltmeter to test this.  Disconnect the sensor and check the
>   resistance values through the full range of pedal travel.  Slowly have an
>   assistant depress the pedal and look for dead spots in the sensor.
> 
>>Is the turbo charger healthy?  The bearings making any sound? 
> 
>   It's probably not the turbo, since Jim says the car is fine under heavy
>   acceleration.
> 
>>Any net advice on a turbo going out?
> 
>   Turbos HOWL when the bearings start to go.  It sounds like you've got a
>   company of fire engines under the hood at full throttle.  At idle, it may
>   sound like there's a large pepper grinder behind the engine. Typically, peak
>   boost begins to suffer, then boost lag increases, all the time the howling
>   gets louder...
> 
>> Jim Nissen                jnissen@jnissen.austin.ibm.com 
> 
> 	Herb "Mopar Maniac" DaSilva
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: nau@quesadilla.ssesco.com (William Nau)
Subject: Re: Lincoln Mirror For Sale
Organization: SSESCO
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 00:48:14 GMT

In article <1992Dec30.212812.27417@fuug.fi> an1060@anon.penet.fi writes:
>X-Anon-To: rec.autos.tech
>
>
>
>Hello,
>
>I have a passenger's side view mirror for a 1987 (may fit other years) Lincoln
>Continental...
>
>New From Dealer is over $220....  I ask $120 or best offer...
>
>Please Respond to:  mantell@ams.sunysb.edu

Or run down to your local junk yard and buy one for $30.
William R. Nau
Supercomputer Systems Engineering and Services Company (SSESCO)
511 11th Avenue South, Suite 216
Minneapolis, Minnesota 55415-1536
(612) 342-0003

nau@SSESCO.com
From: vlasis@cybernet.cse.fau.edu (vlasis theodore)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Timing Belt on Civic Si.
Date: 27 Dec 92 15:35:31 GMT
Article-I.D.: cybernet.wH7FwB4w165w
Organization: Cybernet BBS, Boca Raton, Florida

exuptr@exu.ericsson.se (Patrick Taylor) writes:

> In article <1992Dec16.162730.2867@mtu.edu> vetter@mtu.edu (STEVEN J. VETTER) 
> 
> >  When the timing belt breaks, the valves currently open will stay open, and
> >  will then have the crap banged out of them as the piston comes to top dead
> >  center.  This is very bad :)  
> 
> Indeed.
> 
> >  If you have a manual tranny, you can engage the 
> >  clutch quickly and reduce the beating the valves and piston`s take, if it'
> >  an automatic, it will take you longer to take it out of gear and the damag
> >  will most likely be greater.  
> 
> I would think the thing to do would be to shut the engine OFF immediately
> (AND disengage the clutch if manual).
> 
> 
>  ----------------------!!! H A P P Y   H O L I D A Y S !!!-------------------
>  ObQuotes:
>  "Ignornance and prejudice, confident their ways are best..."
>  "Quick to judge, quick to anger, slow to understand..."
> 
>   - Patrick Taylor, Ericsson Network Systems
>     exuptr@exu.ericsson.se                    "Don't let the .se fool you"
>     Visit the SOUNDING BOARD BBS 214-596-2915, a Wildcat! BBS

timing chains with timming rubber belts a lot of problems have surfaced.

These belts break all too easily and there is an investigation taking
place among all the Japanese car makers.

I learned this the hard way when my timing belt broke as I was 
downshifting (Aouch !)

The heat generated from todays engines wears the belts very fast.
I was recommended to change them every 60,000 miles. 

If oil gets on the rubber belt you replace them even sooner.

vlasis.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: reid@ucs.indiana.edu (Frank Reid)
Subject: Isuzu oxygen sensor
Summary: how to turn off light?
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 15:25:03 GMT

At exactly 90,000.0 miles, the "O2" light came on in my 1988 Isuzu
Trooper (2.6 liter engine with electronic fuel-injection).  I suspect
that simply replacing the sensor will not turn the light off.
Does anyone know the secret reset procedure?

--

Frank     reid@ucs.indiana.edu
From: ming@enel.ucalgary.ca (Yang Ming)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: temperature block heater heats block to
Date: 29 Dec 92 23:36:46 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: ECE Department, U. of Calgary, Calgary, Alberta, Canada

In article <92Dec29.025235.19509@acs.ucalgary.ca> tbmorris@acs.ucalgary.ca (Thomas B. Morrison) writes:
>Hi there,
>
>It is -30 degrees C outside.  None of the cars are starting even though
>they are all "plugged in". 
>

-30 is ok for most cars if they are plugged in. Last few nights it has been
-32 here in Calgary, but as far as I know all my friends' cars with plug-ins
are ok to start.

>Two questions:
>1) What does the "block heater" heat, engine block, anti-freeze, and so on.
>   I really want to know.
>

Block heaters, at least those commonly seen ones, heat up the coolant in the
cooling jacket of the engine block. Some others a attached to the outside of
the bottom of the oil pan, to heat up the oil.

>2) To what temperature does the block heater heat?  A friend of mine said
>   "To a temperature such that the car can start".  Numbers please.
>
 
Depends on your engine size and the power rate of your heater, and most
importantly, the air temprature. My honda accord '81, for example,
has a block heater of 400 watts. The colder it is, the harder it is to
start the car. It's ok so far for -40 degree as I experienced. There
so many things involved in starting a car. If it is really cold, you have
a chance of not being able to start your car.


>E-mail or post.  Thanks.  My guess is the engine block is heated to
>the -10 to -15 C range. 
>-- 
>Tom Morrison 
>Morrison Scientific Problem Solving
>Suite 400, 604-1st Street S.W., Calgary, Alberta, T2P 1M7, CANADA
>Internet: tbmorris@acs.ucalgary.ca
From: grammer@ecs.umass.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Honda/Acura Parts Interchange
Date: 22 Dec 92 15:42:11 GMT

Hello all,

I have an '87 Honda Civic CRX, and would like to swap a larger Honda
engine and transaxle in. A while back, I remember someone telling me 
that many parts from the Acura Integra ('86-'90) will swap directly
with the '84-'87 Civics, such as brakes, suspension, and powertrain.
Can anyone verify this as correct, and have any experience with it?

Thanks,

Wes


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: keith@balrog.dseg.ti.com (Keith A. Schauer)
Subject: Re: Nissan Maxima Transmission
Organization: Texas Instruments Information Technology Group
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1992 21:18:24 GMT

In article <1992Dec30.162100.25646@julian.uwo.ca> TX_WAYNE@rrivax.rri.uwo.ca (Wayne Johnson) writes:
>In <1992Dec29.220622.3334@balrog.dseg.ti.com> keith@balrog.dseg.ti.com writes:
>
>> In article <9212280134.aa14948@Bonnie.ics.uci.edu> dpark@Bonnie.ICS.UCI.EDU writes:
>> >
>> >I own a 1987 Nissan Maxima with 87000 miles.  When my engine is 
>> >cold(usually morning), the automatic transmission does not shift to third 
>> >gear.  It is only after about a mile later when the car is warmed up that 
>> >it finally shifts to third and fourth gears.  After the initial difficult 
>> >shift, the car shifts to the third and fourth gears without any difficulty.
>> >
>> >Is this something to be concerned about? Or is this common among older 
>> >transmissions and something I should live with?
>> >
>> 	I don't know alot about automatics, but my Maxima (87 75K) is the same
>> 	way.  It doesn't take a mile to warm up, but may take a couple of
>> 	blocks to get into 3rd.  
>> 
>
>Are you certain it isn't the OVERDRIVE that's not kicking in when the
>tranny is cold?  

	I don't run my car in overdrive in town.
>
>According to my dealer this is normal for my Stanza (tho I've never driven
>any other vehicle that behaves this way).  
>
>Perhaps this is a "feature" of all Nissans with O/D automatics.

	Definately a feature of the O/D.  I've noticed that too.
>


-- 
Keith Schauer		Texas Instruments	Plain O, Texas
80 CB900 Custom		
DoD #0901		In an insane society, the sane man must appear insane.
			My company disavows any knowledge of my actions.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Cummins
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 23 Dec 92 18:51:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> 1.  Lack of innovation.  20 years later, nothing has changed.
...
-> their downside.  And while the Chrysler small block V8 may suffer
-> from legitimate innovation complaints, this would seem to have little

 What's to innovate?  Chrysler got it right the first time.  They
changed to roller lifters about the same time Ford and Chevy did, but
they already had a good rod ratio (Ford missed by a mile), appropriately
sized bearings (took Chevy two tries for that), Chrysler was first to
put electronic ignition as standard, etc.  According to (ahem) Consumer
Reports, the 318 has fewer in-warranty service problems than the 302
Ford or small Chevy.  The 3.9 V6 variant ain't bad, either.

 From a hotrod standpoint, Chrysler kinda skimped on compression and
valve size, nonadjustable valvetrains suck, etc, but other Detroit iron
shares various of these misfeatures, all of which were corrected in the
TA340.

 A "small" block Chrysler is only small in relation to Chrysler big
blocks, they're heavy as hell, their performance is nothing to brag
about, but they're about as reliable as you'll find, perfectly suited
for moving Chrysler portable living rooms and getting 4x4s stuck in the
mud.

=======================================================================
can you help me...help me get out of this place?...slow sedation...
ain't my style, ain't my pace...giving me a number...NINE, SEVEN, EIGHT
(Nazareth)               XJ900 TURBO at 15psi          DoD# 978  KotFAQ
=======================================================================
From: srivastk@egr.msu.edu (Aseem Ku Srivastava)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Trouble with my 85 Pulsar...
Date: 28 Dec 92 16:13:24 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Michigan State University, College of Engineering
NNTP-Posting-Host: eecae.ee.msu.edu

Hello all, happy holidays and all that.

I own a 85 Nissan Pulsar, and the animal died on me just two nights
ago on I-96. It might be the clutch - I'm not sure. When I press the
accelerator, the revs go up, but that doesn't translate to power. It
seems almost as if the clutch is pressed in, even while it isn't. I
wonder if someone out there knows what the problem might be. Any
information on diagnosis/cure/costs will be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance to all the kind souls who read/respond to this SOS.

-Aseem
From: accnuf@vaxa.hofstra.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Stang owners?
Date: 28 Dec 92 17:21:44 EST

	Hi all! I was wondering if their were any 5.0 MUSTANG owners out there?
and if so.......what are some of your High Performance SECRETS?????

	I own a 89' 5.0 Lx hatch with some modifications....
It runs about mid 13s in quarter.......BUT I want it faster:)


later!
Newton
From: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: lugging engines
Date: 1 Jan 93 20:15:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Ye Olde Bailey BBS - Houston, TX - 713-520-1569
Reply-To: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 

ALL factory cars are set up to run with a rich mixture at wot. Like 8 to
1 instead of 14 to 1. Now performance modified cars are usually
optimized for wot operation. I don't think most people lug there engines
consistently as you think you do. Even if you drive in the city and
frequently catch 4th or 5th gear you still have to shift through the
other gears to get there, and I would think you exceed 1500 rpm doing
that. As previously stated: I consider "lugging" a engine to be wot or
very close to it at a low rpm. Example being a motor home with V8, 2:73
gear set and a overdrive gear to boot! This vehicle cruising down the
hwy...50mph...in overdrive...rpm about 1200 and throttle very near wot
because they are towing a car! Now if they kicked off the overdrive and
brought the rpm up to about 2000rpm I would be happy. BTW..when I say
overdrive I'm refering to some of those add on 2 speed units that bolt
to the diff...
                                                        Don


 * SLMR 2.1a * I put spot remover on my dog....Spots gone!
                                                                                                      
----
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