HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: johnson@wrs.com (David Johnson)
Subject: Re: HKS Turbo Kits
Organization: Wind River Systems, Inc.
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1992 23:57:10 GMT

frank@terapin.com (Chun Li) writes:

>I have heard from my friend that HKS now makes Turbo systems for CRX/Civic Si
>that will push the engine to about 200hp AND California legal.  Is this true?

>Is it good to put 200hp on the front wheel?  I think the highest output front
>wheel drive car is Tarus SHO at 220hp.  Hum... last summer when I went back to
>Taiwan, I saw some 1.6L V-TECH turbo screamers that do 200+hp... nice!!

Frank, 

Ther is no way that you can bolt on a turbo on a stock 1600cc engine and 
put out 200Hp, and smog-legal no less! Sure you may get a good 10-second
200Hp burst before the head gasket blows and the pistons melt.

You would have to run in to 20psi range to get even close to that much power!
That is unless you plan on transplanting an RX-7 engine, it'll never happen.

>DAVE__________________MAY THE G-FORCE BE WITH YOU!_________johnson@yuba.WRS.COM
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kevin@taronga.taronga.com (Kevin Brown)
Subject: Re: HILFE!!!
Reply-To: kevin@taronga.taronga.com (Kevin Brown)
Organization: Minimal.
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1992 08:53:12 GMT

In article <1992Apr14.173647.11076@nntp.hut.fi> iceman@vipunen.hut.fi (Joni Siltaniemi) writes:
>In article <1992Apr13.054108.16297@menudo.uh.edu> kevin@taronga.taronga.com (Kevin Brown) writes:
>>In article <1992Apr12.173602.29695@nntp.hut.fi> iceman@vipunen.hut.fi (Joni Siltaniemi) writes:
>>>Achtung BMW-drivers in Germany!!!
>>>
>>>I have an old BMW 315. I am coming to Germany in summer and I'm going
>>>to have the "engine" replaced there.
>>
>>The "engine"?  You mean what's under the hood now isn't a real engine?
>
>	Well. Nothing beats the cubic inches, except a BMW

...a BMW???  Oh, you mean a BMW with cubic inches.  Like the 850i...:-)

Now *that's* a *real* BMW...

>>Well, if you want a *real* engine, why not try putting in a Ford 302?  :-)
>
>	Well, if I ever drive a Ford, I'll eat your shorts... nah,
>	my father has one, I must say it is a LOT faster.

What's he got?

And faster than what?  Your BMW?  :-) :-)

>>		Kevin Brown (kevin@taronga.taronga.com)
>
>		I couldn't either...

I didn't think you could.  :-) :-)

>*		             Joni Siltaniemi                                  *


		Kevin Brown (kevin@taronga.taronga.com)

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hacker@cco.caltech.edu (Jonathan Bruce Hacker)
Subject: Re: Freon Freeze!
Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1992 03:27:54 GMT

jh26@prism.gatech.EDU (Jay Harrell) writes:


>I would say that LPG in an A/C would be dangerous because you are piping
>it through the inside of the car.  If a leak develops, you could fill
>the interior of the car with flamable gas fairly quickly.

Don't many of us have essentially an unlimited supply of
natural gas piped inside our homes?  If that's safe what's
so bad about a little LPG in an AC line?   Besides, some of that 
noxious aroma added to natural gas could also be added to the 
LPG refrigerant to act as a warning in the unlikely event of a 
leak inside the car.

-- 
Jon Hacker
Caltech, Pasadena CA
hacker@tumbler-ridge.caltech.edu
From: pauly@netcom.com (Paul Yoshimune)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: AC/Delco Filter Fun facts (Also Fram filters for 350's)
Date: 15 Apr 92 06:06:06 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest)

Well, not only is there a standard oil filter for the small block Chevy
(Wix 51069), and a 1-quart (Wix 51061), but believe it or not, there is also
a 2-quart filter (Wix 51794)!  Pretty neat, eh?  Same with Ford/Toyota
filters...Wix 51515 is the longer version of the 51068 (I think those are the
numbers - better check!)  There are similar substitions for many makes and
models of cars.  Just ask any competent counterperson - they should be able
to help you out...

-- 
-Paul Yoshimune [pauly@netcom.com]
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: blake@wk60.nas.nasa.gov (Matthew W. Blake)
Subject: Toyota Landcruiser Question
Organization: NAS, NASA Ames Research Center, Moffett Field, CA
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 92 23:23:03 GMT

I am considering buying a Toyota Landcruiser, anywhere from a late 70s version
to late 80s.  I can find virtually no info on these vehicles, such as books
on different models.  Does anyone have experience with one?  Any problems?
Any specific years to avoid or things to look for when inspecting one?
Anyone ever work on one?  Easy/hard/other?

Thanks,

Matt Blake
blake@nas.nasa.gov
From: alan@lancaster.nsc.com (The Hepburn)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: rolling a car
Date: 7 Apr 92 21:29:38 GMT
Article-I.D.: berlioz.1992Apr7.212938.11555
Organization: National Semiconductor Corporation

In article <1992Apr6.200906.29231@cbnewsh.cb.att.com>, fwk@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (f.w.kerfoot..iii) writes:
|> From my observations, it is difficult or impossible to roll most
|> street cars by sliding them sideways. Exceptions include:
|> 
|> -Suzuki Samari's (as previously noted), some Jeeps, and other 
|> exceptionally high and narrow cars
|> 
|> -anything which can "trip" the car as it slides- candidates might be
|> curbs, anything soft which could build up in front of the wheels,
|> such as sand, grass, dirt, etc. As another poster noted, if you
|> get a tire off of the rim, the rim can do an exceptionally good job of
|> piling up dirt, etc. and tripping the car.
|> 
|> If you watch autocrosses, showroom stock racing, etc, you will see
|> a wide range of relatively typical street cars doing a lot of sliding
|> sideways (including spins, etc) without tipping over. This includes
|> ordinary street sedans (i.e. relatively tall) on pseudo-race tires
|> like A008RS or Comp T/A R1. Just remember that that the probability of
|> remaining upright while sliding sideways goes way down if you run
|> out of smooth, hard surface (e.g. asphault).
|> 

Basically what it boils down to is:

If your centre of gravity lies OUTSIDE your footprint, you will roll.


-- 
Alan Hepburn           "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain
National Semiconductor       a little temporary safety deserve neither
Santa Clara, Ca              liberty nor safety."
alan@berlioz.nsc.com                              Benjamin Franklin
From: jjn@cbjjn.cb.att.com (Operator)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: HKS Turbo Kits
Date: 6 Apr 92 14:44:21 GMT
Organization: AT&T Bell Labs

In article <frank.02ow@terapin.com>, frank@terapin.com (Chun Li) writes:
|> I have heard from my friend that HKS now makes Turbo systems for CRX/Civic Si
|> that will push the engine to about 200hp AND California legal.  Is this true?
|> 
|> Is it good to put 200hp on the front wheel?  I think the highest output front
|> wheel drive car is Tarus SHO at 220hp.  Hum... last summer when I went back to
|> Taiwan, I saw some 1.6L V-TECH turbo screamers that do 200+hp... nice!!
|> 
|> Frank M. Lin    UCB Xtention    (APSUL) Capsule
|>       Frank/RYU/Frank/Ken SF2CE  #1@ASUC

The people you want to talk to is Jackson Racing, they know everything
you want to know about CRX/Civics. They do extensive racing with these
cars and provide aftermarket parts, I'm pretty sure you can ship them
a CRX engine and they will do extensive massaging on the engine. I have
HKS parts on my RX7 Turbo and they are top notched, no problems in 4
years that I have had them on my car. Good Luck.
-- 
Jeff Nappi
Columbus Bell Labs
jjn@cbjjn.att.com
From: brd@images1.Waterloo.NCR.COM (Barry Drodge)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Importing car from US to Canada -- some answers
Date: 13 Apr 92 15:32:47 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: NCR Canada Ltd, Waterloo, Ontario, Canada.

In article <1992Apr10.154912.5312@acs.ucalgary.ca>, bauwens@acs.ucalgary.ca (Luc Bauwens) writes:
> In article <1992Apr10.000932.12260@cs.ucla.edu> wales@cs.ucla.edu (Rich Wales) writes:
> >I wrote Transport Canada a few weeks ago, asking for current information
> >about importing motor vehicles into Canada from the US.
> 

The CAA (Canadian equivalent of the AAA) has a guide which was just produced
covering this exact topic.  It is called the "Imported Vehicle Buyers Kit"
and covers the standards and selecting the vehicles which qualify.
It cost $2.95 from any CAA store.


--
Barry.R.Drodge@Waterloo.NCR.COM
Imaging Systems Engineering, NCR Canada LTD. 580 Weber ST. N, Waterloo, Ontario
Voice: 519-884-1710 FAX:519-884-0610
"My job is so top secret that it keeps me from knowing what I am doing!"
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang)
Subject: Re: Rolling a Civic..
Organization: Brandeis University
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 15:31:48 GMT

In article <7jnjaj=.pauly@netcom.com> pauly@netcom.com (Paul Yoshimune) writes:
>Yes, it can be done, but you'd have to hit it just right.  In general, a car
>like a Civic will plow the front end if subjected to a very hard turn all of
>a sudden.  Were you to toss the car one way, then immediately go the other,
>it would be more likely to pitch the car.  Other cars, like Rabbits, are more
>prone to rolling the car.  In fact, you often see Rabbits, GTIs, and 2002s
>lifting the inner rear wheel when cornering excessively hard...
>
>-- 
>-Paul Yoshimune [pauly@netcom.com]

Actually Rabbits and 2002s are lifting the rear wheel just to reduce
tire wear.  Except for the male rabbits, which dribble brake fluid
instead.

I don't think that lifting the wheel is an indication that the car is
more likely to roll.  It's certainly an indication of rear roll
stiffness, but with so much of the mass in the front, lifting a rear
wheel isn't much of an issue.  The best driven rabbits at Bryar NH try
to get the wheel lifted throughout the entirety of turn 1.  With a
2002, you lose power so it isn't such a good move.

/andy
From: spikes@hpscit.sc.hp.com (Bill Spikes)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: SQUEAKING STEERING WHEEL
Date: 15 Apr 92 15:06:45 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Clara, CA


To those of you about to attack that squeaking steering wheel....

If you have an air bag waiting for you in the wheel:

Diconnect the cars battery, and then the "backup power supply" BEFORE
you pull the wheel off. Beware of white wires in the steering column
on late model Tauri!


Foomp!

Bill
From: jh26@prism.gatech.EDU (Jay Harrell)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Freon Freeze!
Date: 6 Apr 92 14:33:01 GMT
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology

> Liquified petroleum gas (LPG) powered vehicles are quite common in Australia,
> perhaps not so common in the US.  Does anyone know if a hydrocarbon charged
> air-conditioner is any more dangerous than an LPG tank and supply system.
> 
> Chris O'Neill
> Telecom Australia Research Labs

I would say that LPG in an A/C would be dangerous because you are piping
it through the inside of the car.  If a leak develops, you could fill
the interior of the car with flamable gas fairly quickly.


-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
           Jay Harrell
Internet : jh26@prism.gatech.edu 	Telephone: (404) 894-4266	
US Mail  : Georgia Tech Research Institute, CSITL, Atlanta, GA 30332-0800
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: RE: NEW GROUP. WAS  RE: T
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 12 Apr 92 19:00:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * Jacksonville AR USA * 501-985-0059

-> lose objectivety.  By the way, it isn't just 'Hot Rod Magazine' that
-> I argue with, but *all* of Petersen Publishing Corp's "Rags".  None
-> of them, IMNSHO, are worth the trees that died to provide their
-> paper.  They constantly perpetuate myths and poor techniques.

 Long ago Petersen Publishing's car, motorcycle, gun, and sporting
magazines were written by enthusiasts - hot rodders, bikers, shooters,
hunters, whatever.  As the originals have retired, Petersen has replaced
them with <gag> journalists.  Some of these guys have *NO* idea what's
going on.

 My favorite was when Cycle Magazine (now defunct) hired a hotshot
journalism guy from Harvard.  He'd ridden a motorcycle once, so he was
qualified, though why they'd take a Hahvahd degree over Northwestern was
always a mystery to me.  Anyway, they gave the dweeb a spanking-new
Ninja 900 to road test.  [break: and this "expert"'s opinions would be
presented as fact, which you might base a purchase decision on.]  The
dweeb never got to write that particular road test - he squidded off the
road into some stationary objects, and was shipped back East in a body
cast.
             
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: stiegg@aix.rpi.edu (Gregory Mark Stiegler)
Subject: Help w/ '76 M4MC Quadrajet
Summary: trouble w/mixture aneroid on quadrajet
Keywords: quadrajet
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1992 22:53:55 GMT

Simple question.  Does anyone know how to set the mixture aneroid on a
Quadrajet M4MC?  I've heard to seat it, then back out 4 turns...is this
right?  

    Thanks...
     Greg

-- 
===========================================================================
  "Bureaucracy is a challenge to be conquered with a righteous attitude,
     a tolerance for stupidity, and a bulldozer when necessary"
                  -- Peter's Laws
From: koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: New Group. was  Re: Turbocharger VS. Supercharger.
Date: 10 Apr 92 12:55:27 GMT
Organization: Naval Ocean Systems Center, San Diego

In article <johnson.702861555@wrs.com> johnson@wrs.com (David Johnson) writes:

>I'll be the first to admit that these things can get out of hand.
>I have mailed Walt T. explaining in full what my *real* gripe was about in  
               ^^^^^^^ walt k., actually   
>the first place. All of this arguing is just a waste of time. It has        
>turned from a gripe about the condescending nature of some veteran 
>subscribers, into the age old grudge of "my supercharger can beat the &#%@!
>out of your turbocharger!"  Sure we can bitch all we want, but are we 
>accomplishing anything? If you want to bitch to someone just mail me the 
>crap. I'll gladly delete the garbage faster than you can say pressurized
>induction, but let's keep it off the net.

Yes, despite the *fact* that i initiated this current round, Dave makes a good
point.  I did, thoughtlessly, bury a reasonable answer to a question behind a
factually-correct dissertation.  I stand by the facts presented, but they
*should* have been an appendix rather than the lead-in.  It's just that seeing
'Hot Rod Magazine'-caliber miss-information invading this excellent group, I
lose objectivety.  By the way, it isn't just 'Hot Rod Magazine' that I argue
with, but *all* of Petersen Publishing Corp's "Rags".  None of them, IMNSHO,
are worth the trees that died to provide their paper.  They constantly
perpetuate myths and poor techniques.  So that this doesn't escalate into an
pro-Petersen vs. anti-Petersen war, I will offer to provide several specific
instances that I take complete exception with Petersen's printed word via
e-mail to anyone interested.

Walt K.
From: bnbailey@ducvax.auburn.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Gets hot and dies...
Date: 7 Apr 92 16:26:25 GMT

Folks--
	I've got a 1950 Ford, with 4-cylinder L-head engine much like a Model
A.  The electrical system is 6-volt.  I've got a problem with the engine just
dying and not re-starting.  Here is the scenario--

	I'll start the engine cold, and it starts fine (well, as fine as a
six-volt system will start).  Runs great.  I'll let the vehicle warm up a
little.  Just enough to get the oil warm and flowing well.  And then I'll 
start work.  Use the vehicle under load for maybe 5 minutes, maybe 15 or 20.
Then it just dies as if the coil wire were yanked off.  I've replaced the coil,
by the way.  It's new and hot.  It won't re-start.  So, I walk to the house, 
get a drink of iced tea, read my owner's manual a little while, then go back,
and it it's nice a cool, it will start back up.  I'll drive it to its parking
place, and it will cough a time or two on the way.  Then I'll shut it down, and 
scratch my head awhile. 

	Another possibly related symptom--it knocks (pre-iginites) like hell
under load.  Not necessarily under heavy load, either.  As if there were no
spark advance.  

	As I mentioned, I have replaced the coil.  This seems to be
spark-related, and I think plugs-points-condenser-wires would do the trick.  I 
am afraid that the distributor needs work.  Does anyone have any thoughts on 
this?  I'm not a mechanic, but will have to do the work myself due to lack of 
funds, so I want to get as much background as I can before I start.  Am I 
overlooking something obvious?

	Oh, and if you haven't guessed yet, this is not an "auto", it's a 
Ford 8N tractor.  But hey--There isn't a rec.tractors.tech. or a 
rec.internal.combustion.


Bliss Bailey
Auburn University Academic Computing
bbailey@sitting.duc.auburn.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
From: kenny@world.std.com (Kenneth R Crudup)
Subject: Re: Reconditioning the EGR valve - is it possible?
Organization: Software Tool&Die, (Boston), MA
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 23:14:24 GMT


(1) Go to the junkyard.
(2) Get some "Gumout".
(3) Clean result of search at (1) with (2).

-- 
Kenny Crudup, Unix Systems Consultant	kenny@world.std.com
16 Plainfield St. Jamaica Plain, (Boston), MA 02130-3633
Home +1 617 524 5929 	Home Fax +1 617 983 9410
							Lick Bush in '92!
Organization: Freshman, H&SS general, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1992 00:19:26 -0400 
From: Paul M Taylor <pt1e+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Help /Rattle Elimination
	<15APR199221000738@rosie.uh.edu>

car : '80 Pinto 4cyl with an aftermarket header

Problem:  As with all headers, this one was not a perfect bolt on.  It
required heating and pounding to make it fit past the frame.  Let's say
considerable denting was required.  Needless to say, header to frame
clearance is verytight.  When at idle or when the engine labors, The
header rubs up against the frame and you can feel the whole car vibrate.
 The poblem is it makes everything else rattle and hum.  Does anyone
know of some substance which I can shove between the header and the
frame.  Like a hard plastic block?  Something which will absorb this
vibration.  Will the rubber hangers for exhaust systems work?  I could
clamp it around with a hose clamp.  I need something which can take
extreme heat.  I don't want a fire under there.  

Any suggestions?
thanks,
paul
From: skk@wsl.dec.com (Stuart Kreitman)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: rolling a car
Date: 6 Apr 92 17:24:15 GMT
Reply-To: skk@wsl.dec.com (Stuart Kreitman)
Organization: DEC Western Software Lab

I sold my 83 accord 4 door to someone who rolled his.

"if you push something hard enough, it will fall over"
		-Firesign theater
-- 
	Stuart Kreitman
From: bell@flounder.nosc.mil (Tom T. Bell)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Mustang V6 pings
Keywords: mustang
Date: 10 Apr 92 15:49:41 GMT
Organization: NCCOSC RDT&E (NRaD)

I have an '85 Mustang 3.8L V6 that has a pinging problem.  I've tried using
different gas and octane boosters to no avail.  I've replaced the ignition
coil, thick film ignition unit, distributer stator, rotor, and cap, and the
plugs and wires.  I've also adjusted the timing within specs.  The car
has 130,000 miles on it so I figure it must be carbon build-up.  Does this
sound likely?  Is there any way to remove carbon in the combustion chamber
without removing the head?  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Tom Bell
bell@nosc.mil
_____________________________________________________________
Tom Bell                                email:  bell@nosc.mil
NCCOSC RDT&E (NRaD)
San Diego, CA
-------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kim@mustang.jts.com (T. Kim Nguyen)
Subject: Slick 50 engine treatment
Reply-To: kim@jts.com
Organization: JTS Computer Systems Ltd.
Distribution: rec
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 16:33:19 GMT

I would like to know if there are any hazards to using the Slick 50
product (it's supposed to coat the engine so that parts remain
lubricated even if you haven't run the engine in a while; minimizes
damage during starting, etc.).  I've heard that there was a similar
STP product which worked wonders for slicking up the engine but also
damaged valve seals in the process.  Thanks for any info.

	Kim
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kenny@juniorx.osf.org (Kenneth Crudup)
Subject: Re: Where to buy Car diagnostics computer???
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 22:49:24 GMT

In article <1992Apr15.114944.17049@linus.mitre.org>, rll@fatima.mitre.org
(Roberto L. Landrau) writes:
> In most cases, all you need is an analog voltmeter, a piece of wire to
> make a jumper connection, and the service manual to interpret the
> diagnostics codes.

In article <1992Apr15.115636.1@skyler.mavd.honeywell.com>
mellum@skyler.mavd.honeywell.com writes:
>True, that may be all you need to check somethings, but you won't be able to
>check a lot of the engine parameters that the computer uses. To view those
>you will need a scanner or equivalent.

>...not only can you scan the parameters "live", it allows you to record and
>save the parameters. This can come in handy when troubleshooting an
>intermittent problem.

Don't bother if you have a Ford EEC-IV.

There ain't no parameters.  :-(

I've seen these things running on GM's CCC, and it works great. Engine temp,
rpm, the whole nine. Oh that Ford wasn't so cheap.

-- 
Kenneth R. Crudup, Contractor, OSF DCE QA
OSF, 11 Cambridge Center, Cambridge, MA 02142	+1 617 621 7306
kenny@osf.osf.org	OSF doesn't make me say any of the above.