From: chandler@wc.novell.com (Mark Chandler)
Subject: Re: Question: drop bars on MTB (revisited)
Organization: Novell, Inc. - Walnut Creek
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1992 17:56:51 GMT

Here are some shifting options for drop bars on mountain bikes;

SHIMANO

Dura Ace/Ultegra Bar-Ends (aka Bar-Cons): These are available in 6/7
and 8-speed versions.  They have index and friction modes.  They
tend to inadvertently switch from index to friction mode (some
Loc-Tite on the mounting bolt helps prevent this).  They are
excellent when your hands are on the hooks/drops, but you can't
shift while braking.  Unless you're running wide and/or flared drop
bars, you can hit them with your knees (this is true of all bar-ends
shifters).  They are prone to damage in a crash, and can get clogged
with gunk when you set the bike down.

Dura Ace/Ultegra STI: These would allow you to easily shift from the
hoods *or* the drops/hooks.  They're relatively heavy, and somewhat
complicated (both mechanically and ergonomically).  They seem like
they would be easily damaged in a crash.  Still relatively new
technology -- I wonder how well they would hold up to extremely
dirty/dusty/muddy conditions.

Deore DX/XT Thumbshifters with WTB Adaptors: The Wilderness Trail
Bike (WTB) adaptors allow you to mount Deore DX or XT thumbshifters
inboard of the brake levers.  They work best while holding the
drops/hooks, and you can brake and shift at the same time.  Shifting
from the hoods can be done, but it's a bit trickier.  Since the
shift levers are mounted on the inside of the bars, they are
protected in crashes or when you set the bike down on its side.  The
WTB adaptors are expensive (~$75) and somewhat hard to find.  These
work best with WTB and Specialized RockCombo bars.

RapidFire with adaptors: These are similar to the WTB adaptors, but
use underbar RapidFire (push-push) levers instead of thumbshifters.
This is probably better than the WTB system because the levers are
always in the same position (no thumb acrobatics required) -- just
"punch" and go.  Like the WTB's setup, they are well-protected from
damage.  These adaptors are produced by a bike shop in Southern
California, so they are somewhat hard to find (I can pass on more
info. if anyone wants it).  These also work best with WTB and
Specialized RockCombo bars.


SUNTOUR

Bar-Ends (aka Bar-Cons): These are available in either 6 or 7-speed
versions.  They feature a "soft index mode" which is a *not* a
"true" friction mode.  Unlike Shimano's bar-ends, they will not slip
out of index mode accidentally.  Like Shimano's levers, you cannot
shift and brake at the same time, and can be easily damaged in a
crash (or if the bike simply falls over).

Command: Available only for 7-speeds.  Based on WTB's adaptor
system, these wingnut-shaped levers mount inboard of the bars and
brake levers.  Shifting from the hoods is excellent.  In the
drops/hooks, only shifting from large to small rings/cogs is easily
done.  You can brake and shift at the same time, but it takes much
practice, and is best restricted to dropping down to the "granny" in
front.  The newer version features a better mounting system, and has
a smoother/lighter shifting action/feel.


GRIPSHIFT

Available for both Shimano and SunTour systems.  These perform
similarly to bar-ends, but require a somewhat un-natural wrist
action.  They are less likely to be damaged in a crash than
bar-ends.


CONCLUSION

If you find you need to brake and shift at the same time, I'd opt
for one of the inboard-mounted systems.  Otherwise, bar-ends work
quite well (and are used by the majority of cyclo-cross riders).

>-- David Rose



--
Mark Chandler               Novell, Inc.          510/975-4522
chandler@wc.novell.com      Walnut Creek, CA      510/938-2562 FAX
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     The opinions expressed above are mine, not my employer's.