HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: lzs@indetech.com ()
Subject: BONSAI Club/Advice Info Needed
Organization: Independence Technologies, Inc. Fremont, CA
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 22:16:35 GMT

I am relatively new to the art of Bonsai. Could anyone tell me about some
Bonsai organizations that may exist (for instance, a world-wide society of
enthusiasts, or just a local club in the San Jose, CA area?)

Also, I have a specific question for anyone, anywhere who knows about Bonsai:

I will be taking a 3-week vacation at the end of this year. What should I do
to care for my bonsai plant during this time? It's a small-to-medium sized
juniper. I also have another one (forgot the name) that flowers.

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide!

-Lynn


-- 
Lynn Schneider              lzs@indetech.com
{sun,sharkey,pacbell}!indetech!lzs
Fremont, CA
From: vsummers@polaris.cv.nrao.edu (Vince Summers)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Germinating Sweet Gum Tree Seed
Date: 20 Aug 92 19:13:59 GMT
Distribution: rec.gardens
Organization: National Radio Astronomy Observatory


     I like diversity.  I especially like native, local diversity.  The sweet
gum tree may or may not be local originally, but it seems to be common to 
these parts and seems to have been for years.  My question---How does one
germinate the seed of the Sweet Gum Tree?  Notice, I did NOT say the black
gum tree, the sorghum tree, etc.  Any help will get my firm appreciation!

Vince Summers
vsummers@polaris.cv.nrao.edu
From: marke@ultra.com (Marke Clinger)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Lawn Ariation - Rake up Debri?
Date: 19 Aug 92 05:54:11 GMT
Reply-To: marke@ultra.com (Marke Clinger)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Ultra Network Technologies


I just had my lawn ariated...should I rake up the plugs? Why
should/shouldn't I.

thanks,

Marke


__________________________________________________________________________
Marke Clinger					Ultra Network Technologies
Western Region Systems Engineer			1942 Broadway Suite 213
marke@ultra.com					Boulder, CO 80302
						TEL: (303) 938-3760
						FAX: (303) 938-3762

-- 
__________________________________________________________________________
Marke Clinger					Ultra Network Technologies
Western Region Systems Engineer			1942 Broadway Suite 213
marke@ultra.com					Boulder, CO 80302
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: harlan@crchh347.bnr.ca (Bruce Harlan)
Subject: RE: Waterfalls/Yellow Jackets
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Richardson, Tx
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 21:05:00 GMT

I've tried 2 types of soaker hoses- the old black style and the newer
"softsoak" grey style. IMHO, the biggest advantage of the grey over
the black is that the grey hose handles better. The black hose tends
to kink easily and become unruly. Both hoses suffer significant pressure 
drop (that's the desired side effect, right?) and the volume of water
delivered at the input end of the hose is significantly greater than at 
the terminal end. I haven't found a good fix yet, but I need to block 
the holes a little.

I've also tried the raindrip equipment, and I'm impressed. All the 
pieces go together easily, the systems are flexible, and we are able to 
water very selectively. I haven't had the system in over a winter yet, but 
our winters are mild (Dallas, TX) and I don't see this system suffering
from a freeze.

The original post concerned someone who wanted to water a 120 foot bed
of azealas (if I have my facts right). I think the raindrip is probably
the way to go. Raindrip is available (here) at Home Depot, but if you 
don't have that, look around. The cost shouldn't be that much more than
three 50-foot soaker hoses, it will be a little more work, but I think 
that the system will be much better and the azealas will thank you. You
can also provide some extra water for your thirsty oaks.	

Good Luck!	

Bruce

***** No fancy disclaimers yet, but you know the routine.  *****
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: L621035@LMSC5.IS.LMSC.LOCKHEED.COM
Subject: Locust tree (Purple Robe) Problem
Organization: Lockheed Missiles & Space Company, Inc.
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 92 13:12:03 GMT

Help Please!
 My Purple Robe Locust (Robina Purple Robe) is growing so fast that it's
splitting it's bark in LOTS of places.  I planted it in 91, from a 5-gal.
container.  It's grown over 3' taller, & the trunk has gone from 1 &1/2 "
wide to over 5" in diameter.  I do deep water 1x/week but I haven't been
fertilizing it.  It currently has a second set of flowers, the 1st came
out in March.  It' losing lots of leaves, but it has lots of new growth
too!  Is this tree MUTATING?
  Thanks, in advance for your help.
Pamela
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: arkdr@uniwa.uwa.edu.au (Dave Rindos)
Subject: Query: Opuntia spp for Nopales
Keywords: nopales, opuntia spp
Organization: University of Western Australia
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1992 07:34:42 GMT

Perhaps somebody in California, Mexico, or the southwest of the US could
help me with this question:  I would like to plant an Opuntia (no, it is
NOT "the weed that ate the world" in WA!) specifically for having my own
cactus pads (nopales) and fruit (tunas).  Which species is/are the best
flavoured, or most widely grown?  Can one use pretty much ANY species of
Opuntia, or only certain species used?  Are the "spineless" types used?

Thanks a million!

Dave
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: buckc@ucsu.Colorado.EDU (Carolyn Buck-Gengler)
Subject: Re: Huge green bugs eating my tomatoes
Keywords:  grasshoppers and green 'caterpillers' on my tomatoes
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 15:36:20 GMT

So are the tomato hornworms about 2 inches long, almost as thick as
my little finger, look like big green (and very pretty) caterpillers
(non-fuzzy), and have a nasty looking spike on the opposite end of
what looks to be the head?  I saw one last night (we put it in the
trash) on one of my tomato bushes.  I've missed some of the
discussion on whether these things can cause a lot of harm.  
A question for those who *aren't* advocating raising every bug and
interesting critter that comes along in the interest of ultimate
bio-diversity in their garden :-), is this critter something
serious?  And how about grasshoppers? We have a ton, they've eaten a
couple tomato branches, but don't seem to be doing a lot of damage,
except to the horseradish leaves which I don't care about.

I have some "Safer" soap; if the recommended action is to rid my
tomatoes of either beastie, is that the way to go?

Thanks,
Carolyn
-- 
Carolyn Buck-Gengler		Department of Linguistics
buckc@ucsu.colorado.edu		University of Colorado, Boulder
From: SUSAN.A..BOHN@OFFICE.WANG.COM ("Susan Bohn")
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Wild-collected Bulbs and Plants
Date: 13 Aug 92 16:24:17 GMT
Organization: Mail to News Gateway at Wang Labs

Can anyone recommend nurseries (mail-order or otherwise) that maintain and
adhere to a policy of not collecting from the wild?  So far these posts have
all restated the obvious - don't buy wild-collected bulbs and plants - but
some guidance to sources that are reliable would be a big help.

Thanks in advance -

Susan
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: lp@well.sf.ca.us (Lily Pond)
Subject: Pond Building
Organization: Whole Earth 'Lectronic Link
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 06:15:12 GMT


Well, I've gotten my new 12'x15'x2' pond all dug, marginal shelf and all,
trying to decide on vinyl vs. rubber liner, etc. and suddenly realize I've
got a BIG problem.

Well, I've realized a big logistical problem: I want rocks to surround the
pond and be the liner holder-downers. So I figure that's maybe 50-60 one
foot in diameter round flat bottomed rocks. Well, the woman at American Soil
Products tells me they're likely to be 75 lbs. each, and the only way they
can get delivered is to dump them, expecting breakage, at the top of the
drive (or wherever). Then anything else - the couple of big flat rocks I
wanted on the edges, or the one big one for the middle, these'll be
completely unmovable, I guess. So what am I going to do? Even if I forgo the
big ones, the edging ones begin to seem impossible. Do I have any workable
alternatives? Yikes!

Thanks.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: mem@kepler.unh.edu (Mary E Martin)
Subject: Clivia seed germination?
Organization: University of New Hampshire  -  Durham, NH
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 16:49:27 GMT

I have some Clivia seeds that I would like to germinate.
Has anyone had any luck doing this?
I would appreciate any helpful hints you might provide.

Thank You,
Mary Martin
Univ of NH
Durham, NH 
mem@woody.unh.edu
From: greeven@clipper.ingr.com (John Greeven)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Mexican Primrose
Date: 17 Aug 92 17:56:00 GMT
Organization: Intergraph Advanced Processor Division - Palo Alto, CA

A previous owner of my property did extensive landscaping which included
the use of Mexican Primrose flowers.  They are very hardy and rather pretty
but they are very invasive plants.  If planted in a flower bed along a
a section of grass lawn, they will begin to invade in about a years time.

This is where I am at today.  Is there any advice out there on how to get rid
of these plants?  

John Greeven
greeven@clipper.ingr.com
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: dwb@cbnewsb.cb.att.com (david.boyle)
Subject: Re: starting flowers indoors
Organization: AT&T
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 1992 15:14:58 GMT

I realize this question has bad timing, but....

I have an outdoor planter which is made up of 7 plastic pots which are about
6" deep and 3 feet long.  This year I put in marigolds, zinnias, celosia,
and some impatiens.  Excuse the spelling.  

Anyhow, some did better than others.  The celosia started great, looked hardy
and much better than the zinnias.  However, now the zinnias are looking better
and the celosia is very dry.  Oh yeh, I bought all these plants to start out.

I would like to know opinions of planting all impatiens next year.  The area
is full sun most of the day.  If I want to start the plants inside, when 
would I do it?  Can someone give me a seed supply catalog reference that
seems to meet my need?                  

My objective is to have a colorful planter all summer,  while not attracting
too many bees if possible.  Any advice appreciated and thanks in advance.
								Dave
From: dprjdg@inetg1.ARCO.COM (John Grasham)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Bt
Date: 14 Aug 92 13:45:50 GMT
Article-I.D.: Arco.1992Aug14.134550.10252
Organization: ARCO Oil and Gas Company

>Bt is _Bacillus thuringensis_; Dipel is _B. thuringensis_ var.
_kurstakii_
>spores. Bacillus spores are incredibly tough-- the wall consists
primarily

Omit more stuff about Bt (see original posting...)

Thanks for all the great info about Bt!  Gardening hobbyists like myself
get a lot of good from postings like the one excerpted above.

John G. 
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: pharvey@quack.sac.ca.us (Paul Harvey)
Subject: Re: Eco-lawn mix?
Organization: The Duck Pond public unix: +1 408 249 9630, log in as 'guest'.
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1992 18:46:51 GMT

In article <8196.4140@stratus.SWDC.Stratus.COM> 
jane@soave.swdc.stratus.com (Jane Beckman) writes:
>I have been contemplating Nichols' "Southland Ecology Lawn Mix"
>for reseeding my dead and drought-dried lawn, when the rains
>come again to California (hahahahahah!).  Has anyone had any
>experience with this stuff?  

Is it for the SouthEast or the SouthWest? The climate of the SF Bay Area
is closer to a "Northern" climate than a "Southern" climate. Our wet mild
winters are like Europe and our dry mild summers are like a, southern
Europe, not like the humid and wet eastern US. Another good source for 
seeds is Harmony Farm Supply, po box 460, graton, ca, 95444, cat $2, 
707-823-9125. The "best" grass seems to be drought tolerant fescue.

>(Actually, you
>can't get much worse than the appearance of my lawn at the
>moment, which is Very Dead.)

Then you'd probably think my little lawn is dead too, since I don't
irrigate. But it comes back to life every winter when the rains return.
Our Mediterranean seasons are the reverse of Temperate seasons. In
Temperate climates, lawns are green in summer and brown in winter. In
Mediterranean climates, lawns are green in winter and brown in summer.
Some people become greedy, (California dreamin'), and expect a green lawn 
all year which can be had with irrigation. Ah, but at what price?

Organization: Cntr for Design of Educational Computing, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 14:36:31 -0400 
From: "Sandra J. Harris" <sh4d+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: ORGANIC lawn care???

Does anyone know of an organic treatment for lawns?  My grass is in dire
need of treatment - it's full of clover, dandelions, lots of
unidentified weeds, and some grass.....

IMPORTANT:  I have dogs and want them to be able to do their normal
things in the yard, including "grazing" as they often do.

Any SAFE products on the market?

I appreciate your help!

Sandy
From: spm@icf.hrb.com
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: premature apple drop
Date: 18 Aug 92 15:46:02 GMT
Organization: HRB Systems, Inc.

I have an apple tree, it appears to be a McIntosh, but I'm not sure since it
was planted several owners ago. It's a full-size (not a dwarf) tree, mature,
and is professionally pruned. It bears heavily, but year after year almost all
of the apples fall before reaching full size and ripening. Just last weekend I
picked up a bushel destined for the compost pile. There are no signs of blight
or of unusual amounts of insect activity. Does anybody have any ideas what
causes this, and how to correct it? Since the tree was planted, several blue
spruce have also "matured," causing the apple to not get a great deal of 
sun; could this be (part of) the problem?
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: bobw@csg.uwaterloo.ca (Bob Wildfong)
Subject: Re: horseradish
Keywords: horseradish
Organization: Computer Systems Group, University of Waterloo
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 18:02:42 GMT

In article <77654@ut-emx.uucp> ccel001@shallot.ots.utexas.edu writes:
>Does anybody out there grow horseradish? 
>Is it hard/easy to grow?
> 
>Thanks,  Gene Titus.   

To say that I've had no problem growing horseradish is an understatement.
Be forewarned.
Once you plant it, it will grow there FOREVER.

Sorry I can't help you find a source - I've always managed to have friends
who've been more than willing to give me a root.

You just plant a root a few inches deep (it doesn't seem to matter how
deep, 1"-3" I suppose) and let it go.  The root system is quite strong
and deep, but I've never had problems with it spreading.
The only difficulty is getting rid of it.  It just keeps coming back.

Once mature, the plant has great big leaves sprouting from the base, and
looks just like a 4 foot tall radish plant.   
(It is related to the common radish, by the way).
You can dig up the roots at any time of year, and also plant them at any
time too, as far as I know.
Most people I know dig up their roots in the spring, break off what they
want and replant the remainder.  Thrives on abuse, this stuff does.

My favourite use for horseradish:
put a finger-sized piece in a jar of dill pickles; makes a very
deadly kettle of cukes.

Bob Wildfong                                       bobw@csg.uwaterloo.ca
Waterloo, Ontario                                  bobw@csg.waterloo.edu
AgCan zone 5a, USDA zone 4 (on a windy hilltop)
From: jclose@chesapeake.ads.com (Jeff Close)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Tomatoes SLOW to ripen! <Call for recipes>
Date: 13 Aug 92 14:36:14 GMT
Organization: Advanced Decision Systems division of Booz, Allen & Hamilton

In article <1992Aug8.232358.15760@pcthree.com> scum@pcthree.com (Steve Monroe) writes:
>stead@skadi.CSS.GOV (Richard Stead) writes:
>
>>Tomatoes real late here in Northern VA as well.
>
>>I just got my first red ones this week, so maybe I won't be eating any more
>>green ones for awhile.
>
>It must be because you're do close to D.C. ;-)  Way out here in Sterling, VA
>I've been eating red ones for about three weeks... Beefsteak, plum, cherry,
>Nutin bettern a big 'mater sandwich.... um um good
>
>-- 
>Steven C. Monroe            VOICE:(703)406-2082                PC Three, Inc.
>scum@pcthree.com             FAX:(703)406-2078                  P.O. Box 1644
>                                                              Herndon, VA 22070

I live in Alexandria near National Airport, and ours have been ripening for
a few weeks, so it's not proximity to DC.  Sun, maybe?

Jeffrey
-- 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
jclose@ads.com: ADS BA&H/2111 Wilson Bd #800/Arlington, VA 22201 703-243-1611

Anarchists don't believe in rules.  Surrealists make up their own.
From: loftis@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Kirk Loftis)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Dog "Poop"?
Date: 12 Aug 92 19:42:48 GMT
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server


	Thanks to all those who replied.  I actually found a book last
night that listed everything you can and can not compost.  One of those
items you should not compost includes Dog and Cat manure.  According to
the book, there is a possibility of diseases or parasites transmitting
to humans during the handling of the stuff.  That appears to be the
drawback (too bad).

	Kirk
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: ou812@cbnewse.cb.att.com (Old User)
Subject: yellow non-pumpkins?
Organization: Garden City
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 18:01:56 GMT
Keywords:  should be pumpkins but are yellow, should I eat them?

This year I have transplanted many "pumpkin" plants from the edges of my
compost pile.  I put 4 large pumpkins in last fall, I salvaged them from a
neighbor who was throwing them into landfill garbage.  I have no idea 
where they were grown, but I think along side some yellow type squash.

The plants are growing like the dickens, and I have 2 very nice pumpkins,
one quite large and impressive, and the other smaller but already turning 
a nice orange.  The problem:  I have many more yellow colored fruits
amongst the plants.  They are pumpkin shape but yellow at all times.  I 
mean the pumpkins started out green and are changing color, these things 
were yellow from the beginning and show no signs of changing color.

I assume the pumpkins are actually some squash-y variety or were grown
near squash and I am getting some mutant children.  Anyway, my question is
should I try to eat these things, and if so, how? :-)  I have no idea if I
should try frying the little ones, carving the big ones like a pumpkin, or
what.  I never grew such mutants before, and wondered if anyone has any
experience with similar yellow pseudo-pumpkin vegetables.

I am very busy eating everything in my garden so don't feel like eating
them unless someone thinks they might be good for something.  Send email
if you have any ideas.  Thanks!
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: shafer@rigel.dfrf.nasa.gov (Mary Shafer)
Subject: Re: Dandelions (was Re: ORGANIC lawn care???)
Organization: NASA Dryden, Edwards, Cal.
	<charlesv.714151560@aupair.cs.athabascau.ca>
	<1992Aug18.165825.3010@ucsu.Colorado.EDU>
	<1992Aug21.234931.707@calmasd.prime.com>
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1992 01:27:53 GMT

On 22 Aug 92 07:49:31 GMT, jhb@calmasd.prime.com (Jim Bishop) said:

Jim> Since Southern California doesn't have dandelions ...

Southern California does have dandelions--they've grown in all the
yards that I've lived with since I moved to SoCal in 1961.

Jim> and I also won't share my thoughts on growing a lawn in an
Jim> arid climate.

Here in the High Desert a lawn is part of the cooling system and the
cost of growing it has to be offset against the cost of running the
air conditioner.  I don't think this is true of more humid places.

--
Mary Shafer  DoD #0362 KotFR NASA Dryden Flight Research Facility, Edwards, CA
shafer@rigel.dfrf.nasa.gov                    Of course I don't speak for NASA
 "There's no kill like a guns kill." LCDR "Hoser" Satrapa, gunnery instructor
                       "A kill is a kill."  Anonymous
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: African Violets
Date: 13 Aug 92 19:01:50 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

emily@azariah.tamu.edu (Emily Glass) writes:
> The water in College Station/Bryan Tx is *extremely* salty (I learned
> the hard way with my plants when I first moved here), so I use only
> bottled water or rain water.  But is fertilizer really salty?  If so, are
> all brands?  How do you tell which ones have salt?  I have taken great
> care not to water my plants with salty water, and, now, I may be introducing
> salt via my fertilzer???  

"Salt" in this sense is not just NaCl, but "salt" in the sense used by your
Chem I prof: the reaction product of an acid and a base.  Yes, fertilizers 
are "salty", some more than others, and just how "salty" depends on the
ingredients.

The main problem with saline water, or "salty" fertilizers is that the
various ions in the soil are an osmoticum: since water moves from 
areas of greater concentration (lower osmotic pressure) to areas of
lesser water concentration (higher osmotic pressure), a salinized
soil can actually pull water right out of a plant.

Since you're in College Station, you can probably find a nice, thick-
leaved plant like a hen and chickens, or a piece of prickly pear cactus.
Cut the leaf or cactus pad in half, and salt one half along the cut liberally.
In half an hour, you will literally be able to _pour_ water off the cut
surface.  Try the same thing with the other cut piece, but use table sugar.
You'll get the same result.  Both the salt and sugar are acting as osmotica
and drawing water from the plant.

The two effects of "salty" water you'll see before you actually see plants
wilt and die from salinized soils are whitish crusts on the soil surface
(or on the walls of a clay pot), and "burnt"-looking leaf edges.  The salts
are in high concentrations because you keep watering, and the minerals
don't evaporate along with the water.

The "cure" is to leach the plants with _large_ amounts of water, dissolving
the minerals and carrying them below the root zone.  In potted plants, you
can also pick the crusts off the soil and the pot to reduce the amount
of water needed for leaching.

Citrus and african violets are a couple of examples of plants that salt-
burn easily.

Some plants take salinized soils _much_ better than others.  For instance,
_Halogeton glomeratus_ is extremely salt tolerant.  If you look closely
at some plants that are in saline desert soils, you may find small salt 
crystals on the tips of the leaves -- and in the _same_ position in each
leaf.  That's because these plants are actually equipped to excrete
salt through special salt glands in the leaves.  Really kind of amazing.

Kay Klier  Biology Dept.  UNI 

From: ajp@hpopd.pwd.hp.com (Andy Pearce)
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 14:57:04 GMT
Subject: Re: Yukky compost heap
Organization: HP Software Engineering Systems, UK
Newsgroups: rec.gardens

> however revolting it all looks like now, it will rot down eventually,
> won't it??????

Yes it will, but you could have saved your money and put all the materials
in plastic bags.  If you have horse stables near you, try used horse-
bedding -- straw, sawdust, or whatever -- to aerate the pile.  It might 
get a bit of heat up too if there's plenty of urine in it.  Then put the 
lid on and forget about it.  (You can turn it, but your bin sounds too 
flimsy for that).  

The best compost heaps are the ones that have been forgotten about.
--ajp
Newsgroups: rec.gardens