HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: clewis@bcarh1d7.bnr.ca (Chris Lewis)
Subject: Re: Re: WARNING (response to...)
Organization: Bell Northern Research
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 19:39:12 GMT

In article <64770027@hpcss01.cup.hp.com> markw@hpcss01.cup.hp.com (Mark Williams) writes:
>Incidentally, I went to Hancock Shaker Village just to see some Shaker 
>buildings and furniture last summer.  They were amazing builders, and used
>all hand tools.  Now I think they were a practical lot, and would have
>adopted power tools gladly, but they had a sense for good joinery ...

Nope.  The Shakers weren't averse to powered equipment.

Getting the job done quicker, provided it was done properly, allowed
them more time for their religious devotions.  They are credited
with several technical woodworking innovations, *including* the powered
circular saw.  Though circular saws were possibly around elsewhere, they
seem to have been the most influential in getting them into common-place
use in North America.

Unlike the Amish, the Shakers would probably have used power
tools for joinery if they had been available at the time, *and* the
results were satisfactory.

I don't think the Shakers had an aversion to electricity like traditional
Amish.

They just an aversion to procreation.

Which is why the Amish are still flourishing, and I think I heard that 
the last Shaker died this year.
From: larrym@ssec.wisc.edu (Larry McGuire )
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Plans for an Entertainment Center
Date: 8 Jan 93 14:36:07 GMT
Organization: University of Wisconsin, Space Science and Engineering Center

Can anyone point me to a source for plans for an Entertainment Center?  

Thanks in advance!

-- 
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Larry McGuire                  larrym@ssec.wisc.edu

Space Science & Engineering Center     
University of Wisconsin, Madison        
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 21:11:02 GMT
Subject: Re: "Rainforest Destruction Has Many Victims"
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
From: luoni@jasper.mlb.semi.harris.com (Perry Luoni)
Subject: Re: Norm's New Season
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 16:41:03 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

In article <9301081623.AA18149@TIS.COM> richard@TIS.COM writes:
>
>	New season... poo! Sure it's fun to watch to see what kind of
>newfangled tools he whips out...! But let's see him build something with
>the limited hardware that most of us suffer with. Let's see him build
>a few things without resorting to the use of "only in my dreams" types
>of tools! Sheesh. C'mon Norm, stick to the basics, like a circular saw
>and a sander. No drill press. No jointer. No planer. No biscuit muncher.
>No blivot maker. No squiblet flurbigator... Gimme some ideas on how to
>do some nice things with my limited resources..!

The problem is that with only a circular saw and a sander you can't
make very many interesting projects.  I like seeing complicated 
furniture and how it can be made.  I can buy a thousand book
telling me how to make a cutting bored :-) or some other simple
project.  If you really want to make things you have to buy
some tools.  Either power or the hand equivalent. I prefer 
power but that is another war I don't want to get into.  Norm 
seems to use a wide variety of tools in order to show how
to do the same task with different tools and jigs.  If you
watch all of his shows you will see him do the same task
with a variety of tools.  You can equip yourself with a few 
tools, table saw, sander, drill press (or hand drill) etc.
and still make most of what Norm does.  Of course you might
not be able to do it the same way with the same tools but
half the fun is adapting what Norm does to your needs.  I have
built many of Norms projects but I always end up changing 
things so that the end result is different from what Norm
has built.
From: coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM (Chip Coffin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: WARNING (response to...)
Date: 8 Jan 1993 21:13:52 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Distribution: world
Reply-To: coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: surfin


It ain't over till its over......

I have a friend who couldn't stand little pieces hanging around the blade
after he used a miter gauge to cut them off.

So he flicked them off, thinking no big deal (note: he was confident!).

Well, it turns out that any mass tends to spin about its center of gravity.
When he went to flick a scrap away from the spinning blade, the blade caught
the scrap and spun it and his his finger back into the blade.

Fortunetly, he didn't lose much, but he had a nasty bandage for quite a while.

After hearing this, I'll never flick a piece from a spinning blade.


chip
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Wed, 6 Jan 1993 09:09:13 -0500
From:         "Wile E. Coyote" <BBHULSEY@LIFE.UAMS.EDU>
Subject:      Re: Old Finishes/Refinishing

Greetings!

David Kosenko writes:

>Last night I fished a real nice mahogany veneer table out of someone's
>trash pile.  This beast has 5 leafs that go into it (11 ft fully
>extended).  The only problem is that the finish has come off of the two
>"base" leafs (the ones affixed to the base) and is in slightly sad
>shape on the two drop leafs.  It appears to be some sort of lightly
>tinted varnish.  It can be scraped off easily on the worst leafs (I can
>scrape it off with a fingernail).  The 5 removeable leafs are all in very
>good shape, and would really only ned a good polishing and cleaning. I'd
>guess that the piece dates back about 50 years.
>
>My question is: is anyone familiar with the type of finish used on such
>pieces back then?  The finish on the good leaves is very smooth, so I'm
>not sure that it would be shellac (the shellaced pieces I've seen have never
>been so smooth).  Since it is chipping off, I don't think it would be any sort
>of oil.  Would a clear or lightly tinted lacquer behave like this?  I'd
>like to refinish this piece and, if possible, recreate the old finish.
>Barring that, I suppose I'd have to refinish the whole thing, including
>the "good" leafs.  Would regular stripper be safe to use on this (it is
>a veneered piece)?

My mother's old Thomasville furniture has this same kind of finish.  The
finish easily dissolves in any of the solvent-based refinishers such as
Formby's, etc.  This is infinitely easier to use than a regular paint
stripper, provided your finish is varnish, shellac, or lacquer.  It won't work
at all on polyurethane or painted surfaces, and it won't affect stains either.
To test to see if a solvent-based refinisher will work on your piece, try a
bit of nail polish remover or acetone on a small area.  Sorry I can't help you
on what the finish actually _is_ or how to reproduce it.

>Are there any good books out there on refinishing antiques that someone
>would like to recommend?  I've really only been involved with new
>finishes, so this one is kind of new for me.

Sorry, can't help you here either.  But I'd like to hear what you find out.

.......
:  o/ : Bruce Hulsey
: <|  : Univ. of Arkansas for Medical Sciences
: / > : internet: bbhulsey@life.uams.edu
:.....: bitnet:   bbhulsey@uams
From: yarmas@solbourne.com (Tom Yarmas)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: FYI - Turning Green Wood
Date: 4 Jan 1993 09:22:07 -0700
Organization: Solbourne Computer, Inc., Bethesda, Md
NNTP-Posting-Host: solbourne.com

In the February 1992 issue of Wood Magazine (issue #50), they had an article
on green-wood turning. In it they had the following tips for seasoning bowls:

	Apply a sealer such as paste wax to moderate moisture loss and prevent
	checking and cracking. Store the bowl away from air movements and
	extreme temperature variations until ready to re-turn.

	Check the bowl daily for the first week or so. Cracking or checking
	indicates that the wood is drying too quickly; apply more wax or
	sealer. If you live in a dry climate, put the bowl in a plastic bag,
	too. Your bowl will be ready for finish turning in about 3 months.

	Monitor the seasoning more accuratelyt with a scale indicating grams
	or fractions of an ounce, if you want to be precise. Record the date
	and bowl weight when seasoning starts. Then, weigh it periodically
	and note the readings. When the weight remains stable for several
	days, complete the bowl.

Hope this is useful.
-tom



Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: EPLUS17@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu (Richard Engelbrecht-Wiggans)
Subject: Re: WARNING (response to...)
Organization: C.C.S.O.
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 06:56:44 GMT

In article <4108@ecicrl.ocunix.on.ca>
clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis) writes:
 
>In article <93Jan8.161533cst.15559@utdallas.edu> JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.BITNET (Jeff Roberts) writes:
>> Well times are a chang'in even for the Amish.  I was watching a PBS show on
>> the Amish, traditional, pious, as you would expect, except......for........
>> that.....pneumatic butterfly sander with half inch air supply hose he was
>> using to sand that beautiful china cabinet with!  Hey, competition
>> was getting tuff.
>
>My wife, who's spent some time in Lincoln bed-and-breakfasting with the Amish
>was a bit surprised - "Sure it wasn't a Mennonite?"  The "Old Amish" wouldn't
>be building things with power tools.  Most of them have the husbands operating
                         ***********
>the farm, and the wife doing quilts and other small craft objects for sale
>along with their market garden.
>
We have a large Amish community a bit south of here in central
Illinois.  One of the biggest industries in town is Schrock
cabinets--makers of fine kitchen cabinets.  As I understand it,
air powered tools are not "power tools" since the power source
is not in the tool (but a stationary, diesal powered monster.)
 
We also observed some field work--haying.  The bailer was diesal
powered, but drawn across the field by horses.  Apparently the
fact that the engine doesn't provide the locomotive power makes
it ok.  Then there was the bicycle...but no tires. (You could
hear it coming some ways off!)  I don't fully understand all the
"rules," but I suspect that some of what appear as quirks to me
are the result of trying to interprete and apply old rules in
new situations unlike any anticipated by those who made the rules.
 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ameres@manhattan.cat.rpi.edu (Eric Ameres)
Subject: Re: WARNING
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 19:02:28 GMT

In article <1993Jan6.164425.21084@kodak.kodak.com> kroth@sunshine.Kodak.COM (David Kroth) writes:
>
>When cutting small pieces ( < 6 inches or so ) I use a pencil
>as a push stick.  The eraser holds the wood well and leaves
>

etc...

Sounds like a great idea.  But, having had a mother who relished the
"you're gonna put an eye out" phrase, this sounds to me like a job for
an unsharpened pencil.  I like my projectiles blunt(er), thank you!
They're also longer that way.  Now, how do I avoid the temptation of
sharpening the push-pencil once I've misplaced my umpteenth pencil in
the last 5 minutes...?

Eric.
-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Eric Ameres,  Software Engineer                 ameres@cat.rpi.edu
New York State Center for Advanced Technology in Automation & Robotics
Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute - CII 8313, Troy, NY 12180-3590
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: wgh@core.rose.hp.com (Bill Hooper)
Subject: What would you buy?
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 17:50:17 GMT
Organization: HP - Systems Technology Division
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.8 PL6]

Last year my wife started a craft business. Some of the stuff she sells is
hand painted wood. Most of the wood is simple, small shelves, small
cupboards, wooden dolls, cut figures on a base with wheels, etc.  I have a
variety of hand power tools, circular saw, drill, router, sander, and a
scroll saw (Craftsman, no flames, my wife bought it for me. Why does it
seem that every man who has a Craftsman power tool, had it purchased by
his wife?). I have been building most of the wood stuff myself, but it is
difficult with the tools I have.

So, on to the big question. I have liquidated some assets and now have
approx. $1200. I would like to purchase some table tools, table saw,
planer, miter saw, etc., to build these wood projects for my wife. Any
suggestions on what to buy?

Many thanks!

--
Bill (i love loaded questions) Hooper
Hewlett Packard
Information Networks Division, Systems Interconnect Lab
wgh@core.rose.hp.com 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
That's the problem with crunch heads - they have one great idea that actually
works then they expect you to carry on funding them for years while they sit
and calculate the topographies of their navels.
			Dirk Gently's Holistic Detective Agency. Douglas Adams
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: scot@fc.hp.com (Scot Heath)
Subject: Re: 3 phase question
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 22:04:28 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Fort Collins Site
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.8 PL6]

John Kopf,D,6305 (kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM) wrote:
: three phase comes in two forms:
: 
: 	  A		   A
: 	  |		  / \
: 	 / \		 /   \
: 	B   C		B_____C
: 
: Each of A, B, C is 120 degrees phase difference (+ / -) from the other two.
: 
: 220 is one PAIR of these (such as A-B).  (In the Y configuration A to ground is 110).

BONG!  Thanks for playing!  Next contestant please....

The correct answer is, in the Y configuration, if A-B is 220v, A to the center 
connection (not necessarily ground) is 127v.  Phase to neutral
voltage is phase to phase voltage divided by the square root of 3.  It's
those darn phasor's again.

-Scot
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: smb@research.att.com (Steven Bellovin)
Subject: NYW schedule -- New Jersey
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 16:24:43 GMT
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories

The New Jersey Network (channels 50, 58, and a few other UHF stations)
will carry all 13 episodes starting Sunday, Feb 28, at 3:30.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: animal@rtp-nc.mentorg.com (ANIMAL)
Subject: Re: Central Vacuum for the Workshop?
Summary: 
Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1993 18:22:12 GMT
Reply-To: animal@rtp-nc.mentorg.com
Organization: Mentor Graphics Corporation
Keywords: 
Followup-To: 

I have a shop_vac with a 12 Gallon Capacity and I empty
it after every 2-3 shop nights.  A 5 Gallon capacity
would last maybe 1 night with me.  (BTW - you are supposed
to empty a vaccuum if the tank is 1/2 full so you only
get about 2 1/2 Gallons working capacity.)
---
________________________________________________________
000 000
(_) (_)    animal@rtp-nc.mentorg.com
________________________________________________________
                     ____  
     ^      |\   || |_  _| |\    /|      ^      ||
    /^\     | \  ||   ||   | \  / |     /^\     ||
   // \\    ||\\ ||   ||   ||\\//||    // \\    ||
  //___\\   || \\||   ||   || \/ ||   //___\\   ||
 //_____\\  ||  \ |  _||_  ||    ||  //_____\\  ||_____
//       \\ ||   \| |____| ||    || //       \\ |______|
________________________________________________________

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: animal@rtp-nc.mentorg.com (ANIMAL)
Subject: Re: AMT tools?
Summary: 
Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1993 16:30:47 GMT
Reply-To: animal@rtp-nc.mentorg.com
Organization: Mentor Graphics Corporation
Keywords: 
Followup-To: 

I have a bunch of AMT tools and am generally happy with them. 
They are the same as most of the taiwan import tools (Reliant,
Grizzly, etc) but they have a 10 year warranty which is nice.
Below is a summary of my experiences:

Lathe:
 I have the cast iron lathe and am very happy with it. 
They recommend a a ge??? motor that appears to be a little
underpowered. I bought the Larger motor and the 56 Frame adapter
and now the lathe is a champ.  The nuts w/attached wrenches they use
for adjustments is a little funky but the lathe cuts well.
(P.S. AMT does NOT recommend the larger motor but it works great)

14 Bandsaw:
I had to use my saber saw to cut out a hole for the tension
mechanism as it caught on the cover.  It runs real smooth and 
quiet and I think it works well for a home shop.

6" joiner:
I am very happy with this tool as it cuts smooth as silk. 
adjustment is easy and the center mount fence works well. I 
recommend you invest in some carbide blades (Trendlines etc.)
as the supplied blades dull fast. (Although I tend to run a lot
of maple at them!) 

48" belt sander:
The belt adjustment/tracking mechanism on this stinks.  I requires 
both an allen wrench and a supplied wrench and is fairly fickle
trying to keep properly tensioned and tracking.

Mortising Attachment:
Junk. Drill bits don't fit inside punch well. Actually the attachment
is probably fine but use someone elses bit/punch.

Rebate Plane:
Needed to grind body so blade fit and I could get a square cut.
 
---
________________________________________________________
000 000
(_) (_)    animal@rtp-nc.mentorg.com
________________________________________________________
                     ____  
     ^      |\   || |_  _| |\    /|      ^      ||
    /^\     | \  ||   ||   | \  / |     /^\     ||
   // \\    ||\\ ||   ||   ||\\//||    // \\    ||
  //___\\   || \\||   ||   || \/ ||   //___\\   ||
 //_____\\  ||  \ |  _||_  ||    ||  //_____\\  ||_____
//       \\ ||   \| |____| ||    || //       \\ |______|
________________________________________________________

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: "Gil C. Cruz" <gil@thumper.bellcore.com>
Subject: tile frame
Organization: Bellcore
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 93 12:24:44 GMT

I purchased a tile mural while in Portugal this past fall.
It consists of 12 6x6 tiles.  I'd like to hang it on our
kitchen wall.  I was thinking of mounting the tiles of
a piece of masonite or plywood and then building a frame
for it.  Any suggestions on which material to use for backing,
how to attach hooks/wires to the whole thing so that it won't
fall, etc.?  Thanks.
gil



**************************************************************************
**************************************************************************
Gil C. Cruz             "We are not afraid to entrust the American people
Bellcore                 with unpleasant facts, foreign ideas, alien 
Rm 2B-280                philosophies and competitive values.  For a 
445 South St.            nation that is afraid to let its people judge the
Morristown, NJ 07962     truth and falsehood in an open market is a nation 
                         that is afraid of its people." 
		         - President John F. Kennedy
**************************************************************************
**************************************************************************
From: Roy Williams
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Chess table design
Date: 7 Jan 1993 00:46:29 GMT
Organization: CCSF Caltech, Pasadena, CA
Distribution: world
Reply-To: roy@willow.ccsf.caltech.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: willow.ccsf.caltech.edu

In article 808@pixel.kodak.com, john@ektools.kodak.com (John H. Hall) writes:
>
>I'm trying to design a chess table.
>
>2. Make the chessboard and the frame separate, held
>together with floating splines on four sides.  That will leave a nice 
>crack around the board to collect lint and cookie crumbs, though.
>

How about really making the frame and board separate, so the board can 
come out when you want to claen up the cookie crumbs. In fact you could
use the realestate on the other side for a backgammon board or perhaps
some pornographic marquetry....

Roy



Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: rdc@world.std.com (Ralph D Clifford)
Subject: Re: Router tables
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 22:50:17 GMT

In article <1993Jan12.184704.16557@informix.com> davek@informix.com (David
Kosenko) writes:

>... My major complaint is that the fence bolts down
>to the table w/o and sort of miter guide, which means a lot of fooling
>around in order to get it square and straight to the bit.  It would have
>been much nicer if it had two channels perpendicular to the direction of
>feed, with two miter bars on the base of the fence, so that it would
>stay square once aligned.
>

     I have not found that squareness is necessary on a router table fence. 
After all, the bit is round.  The only thing I find to be critical is the
distance between the bit & fence.  This is fairly easily achieved by
locking down one end of the fence near where it needs to be and adjusting
the other until the distance is right.


-- 
Ralph Clifford
rdc@world.std.com (Internet)

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bryan@isrc.sandia.gov (Jon R Bryan)
Subject: Re: American Woodshop - new show on PBS
Organization: Sandia National Labs, Org. 1600, Albq., NM
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 15:36:56 GMT

parnass@cbnewse.cb.att.com (Bob Parnass, AJ9S) writes:
: 
: The public television station in  Chicago  (channel  11)  started
: carrying a new show, American Woodshop, on Saturday mornings at 9
: AM.
: 
: In the show I saw last week,  a  guy  named  Klaus  (?),  whom  I
: recognized  from some woodworking videotapes) hand made dovetails
: for a box by eye!

If Frank Klausz is on PBS I'll be _very_ excited!  Even if he's only an
occasional guest.  I got "Dovetail a Drawer" for Christmas because I
rave about it so much to my wife each time I rent it.  I love to watch
him work, and wish that I could spend a week in his shop.

I'll be looking for the show, but I doubt that Albuquerque's PBS station
will pick it up.  Thanks for letting us all know. 
-- 
Jon R. Bryan	(505) 844-2015	<=>	bryan@isrc.sandia.gov
Sandia National Laboratories, Intelligent System Sensors and Controls
 
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Sat, 9 Jan 1993 10:30:31 EST
From:         Jim Morgan <JMORGAN@BROWNVM.BITNET>
Subject:      Sprunger Brothers tools?

     Does anyone out there know of or own any tools made by Sprunger
Brothers, Inc. of Topeka, Indiana?

     My father-in-law recently gave me his old lathe, made by this
company.  He had used it pretty hard: the bearings are shot, the 4-step
pulley is warped, and I think the headstock spindle is out of true.
This morning, I made some calls and ended up having a very nice chat
with a Mr. William Davis ("81 going on 82, but still working two days
a week"), who had been the general manager of the company since its
inception in  1946.  According to Mr. Davis, Sprunger Brothers made
several models of table saws, band saws, jig saws, belt sanders, and
lathes.  He has promised to send me a parts list for my lathe, as well
as any old catalogs he can find.  Apparently, although the company has
been sold (to a concern called Elkhart Cases), parts are still
stocked.  He thought that a complete replacement headstock would run
about $125.  Given the cost of a new lathe of comparable quality, this
sounds good to me.

Jim Morgan
Brown University
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 11 Jan 1993 08:06:31 EST
Comments:     Converted from PROFS to RFC822 format by PUMP V2.2
From:         Bill McGeehan <IRMTAQA2@SIVM.BITNET>
Subject:      Rosette Cutters

From: Bill McGeehan
I have to make just about enough rosettes to pay for a cutter ($120). If
anyone has experience with these, I'd appreciate hearing about it. I expect
I'll use pine - will I be able to get a rosette that doesn't need sanding
(seems impossible to sand)? I have a drill press, but I wonder what are the
problems using it for a task such as this?

Bill McGeehan, Smithsonian Institution
OIRM Computer Security Manager
Internet: IRMTAQA2@SIVM.SI.EDU
Bitnet:   IRMTAQA2@SIVM       Voice: (202) 633-9035
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