HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: dmeyers@mal-s1.gatech.edu (Dave Meyers)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Cycling Gives Me A Neck Ache -- Recommenda
Date: 25 Aug 92 19:33:52 GMT
Organization: Georgia Tech Res. Inst./Modeling & Analysis Lab


>>I repeat--get a recumbent. They're *wonderful*!!!!!

>OK. But which one? I've tried a lightning and a ryan. Which is
>"better"? What are other good alternatives?

Not to mention, WHERE?  I looked around (just a bit) here in Atlanta,
and no dealers sell them (which makes it awful hard to try one out!),
leaving, I suppose, only mail-order, which really scares me (like I
said, I want to try one out first!).

Any suggestions?
-- 
David S. Meyers (dmeyers@math.gatech.edu)      ***      What .signature?
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: mjohnsto@jenny.shearson.com (Mike Johnston)
Subject: Respacing rear dropouts
Organization: Lehman Brothers
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 18:57:32 GMT

I've decided to purchase a new bike that I'll build up for racing over the winter
and I need some advice. I currently ride/train/race on a '92 Bridgestone RB-2
and I'm EXTREMELY happy with the bike and the price that I paid for it. Most
importantly, I'm comfortable with the geometry and the solid feel of it. At $460
for the whole shebang, I feel it's probably worth it to buy one, strip it for the
frame, and add a new 600 Ultegra STI group. After all, have you seen the price of
some of the frames in various catalogues? Sheesh!

There's only one problem: The rear dropouts are spaced at 126mm and, correct me
if I'm wrong, I need 130mm spacing for the 8speed STI setup. How much should I
expect to pay to have this done and who should do it? Would you agree with my
approach to buying the bike for the frame or am I wasting my money?

Thanks folks.

MJ
--
Michael R. Johnston/System Administrator                mjohnsto@shearson.com  
  =-=-=  The official .signature of the 1992 Barcelona Olympics. =-=-=

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: crwg2707@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (R. Wagner)
Subject: Re: I Can't See
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 18:30:19 GMT

From SCUBA diving, I learned that toothpaste is good for preventing fogging.
There are also a few products, available at dive shops, for this purpose.  I
used "De-Fog" while diving and it works pretty well.  My cheap clear glasses
were just ordered so I can't tell you if it works, but when I get them I'll
try the De-Fog I have.

 
Ride on, 
Raydude.

"Ray, a man unburdened by the rigors of coherent thought." 
          -a Brannonism quoted by George Heinz

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: praetzel@marconi.uwaterloo.ca (Eric Praetzel)
Subject: Re: Anybody tried the new Avocet titanium-railed saddles?
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 14:08:39 GMT

In article <1992Sep1.093414.15268@husc3.harvard.edu> kim39@scws8.harvard.edu (John Kim) writes:
>what they're like.  I ride a regular SI Turbo and it's fine for
>rides of up to 30 miles or 2 hours or so, but beyond that it sometimes
>
>	Has anyone used this new Avocet saddle or the Vetta titanium
>saddle?
  I have no love for the Vetta Race Gel saddle and can not stand being on it
for > 4 rides per week and anything over 3 hours was hell.  The Tubro was
an improvment but I hated it if the ride was > 5 hours.  Now I have a Ti
saddle that seems like the one you mention.  It is not an ultralight at
220g (240 for Vetta light, 180 for Flite) and I think that I have finally 
found a comfortable position with the nose slightly up.  When I had it
horizontal it was getting painfull after one hour, slight readjustments
made it bearable for 3 hours and I would judge it to be only slightly 
worse than the turbo.  With the new position I think that it will be
find for centuries but I have not found anything comfortable enought to
consider a double century.  The only problem with the saddle is that the
leather has worn through in some spots and after 6,000 km the saddle is
well worn (worn at the narrow nose ie my friend must keep his legs
very close when he pedals; note I got the saddle from a friend after he
decided that it was not comfortable, he uses a Rolls).
  I would not say that the saddle is softer or harder than a Turbo.  It
seems no different except that its 1/4 lb lighter and makes my Turbo look
like an overweight relic of the past.  I wish that I could remember the 
name of the saddle but I don't remember seeing it in the major adverts.
It is a midpriced at about $45 US compared to $80 for Flite, $33 for
Vetta light but I am socked by the rapid wearing of the leather.
  See if the shop will let you try one for 2 weeks (it would be nice if
they did this).  Spend the first few hours trying to find a good position
ie nose up?.  Since the rails are lower you will have to raise your seat
post to maintain the same height you used before.
  As for the 1/4 lb difference.  I notice it every time I life my bike
onto the porch  :-)
 - Eric
From: jwgst2+@pitt.edu (James W Gourgoutis)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Freehub Maintainence
Date: 4 Sep 92 17:09:47 GMT
Organization: University of Pittsburgh

Dear Rec.Bicycles.Tech:

		How do you maintian freehubs?  I know how to clean and lube
freeWHEELS, but what about freeHUBS?  How do you lube them?  I know how to take
them off, if that helps (but I have never done it).

Please advise!
			Thanks!
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
James Gourgoutis       				   
Mechanical Engineering                                O   
University of Pittsburgh                           _ /__,     
e-mail me at:  JWGST2@unixd.cis.pitt.edu          (_) /(_) 
	       or JWGST2@vms.cis.pitt.edu
Thanks!                                     "A bonafide BIKAHOLIC, and DAMN
                                             proud of it!"    
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-       
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: aviator@athena.mit.edu (Joakim Karlsson)
Subject: I Can't See
Organization: Flight Transportation Associates, Cambridge, MA
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 16:20:08 GMT

I got tired of bugs, rocks, dirt, and branches in my eyes, so
I bought some protective eyewear at my local bike store.  It's
a no-brand $20 job, but they fit great, and I wasn't ready to
spend $45-$100.  Slight problem: They fog up.  This only happens
after stopping the bike, not while riding (once I've wiped them
clear that is).  Is there a way to prevent this?  Do more expensive
sets not have this problem?  Or should I just never stop? :)
The lenses are clear and I use them almost exclusively off-road.

We've had some of the hottest muggiest weather ever here in 
the Boston area lately, so that may be a contributing factor.

...Joakim




--
Joakim Karlsson            | aviator@athena.mit.edu
Flying Fanatic in Training | Air: PP-ASEL  CAP: Freedom 110 Mobile  FCC: N1JHW
                 "Oh, I have slipped the surly bonds of earth
                And danced the skies on laughter-silvered wings"
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: praetzel@marconi.uwaterloo.ca (Eric Praetzel)
Subject: Re: Sealed cranks
Keywords: cranks bikes bicycle tech
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 16:52:19 GMT

In article <1992Sep1.022405.5610@rata.vuw.ac.nz> chumphre@comp.vuw.ac.nz (Craig Andrew Humphrey) writes:
>Hi, I'm having a few problems with the crank on my Giant Iguana (1990 I think).
>Because of the holes in the frame (for welding) water is getting in the frame and
>running down to the crank, thinning the grease and splashing powder rust
  The holes are there so that the water can get out of the frame.  Without it
you would find that your frames rusts out a lot faster and would build up
weight from water collecting in the tubes.

>Does anyone else have any experience of sealed cranks?  What recomendations can
>you make?
  I have a sealed BB on my road bike and love it.  The new Shimano ones are
supposed to work fairly well.  A traditional design will last longer but that
assumes that you put a lot of time into dissassembling it and cleaning it
after it gets wet.  A good sealed unit like the Phil Woods BB runs about $90US
but the new Shimano ones are $11US (Deore LX).  I am not sure if your cranks
are compatable with the taper on a Shimano spindle.  I hate the non-sealed
Shimano BB on my MTB but since I don't use it that much any more its not
a concern (I did have to relub it whenever it got wet).
  - Eric
Date: Wed, 02 Sep 92 08:04:23 +0200
From: ianf@random.se (Armchair Nomad In Action)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Apparently-To: rnews@sunet.se
X-Mailer: Fernmail 1.2b2
Organization: random design -- "Opinions, cheaply"
Summary: keeping it under observation at all times IS the answer
Subject: re: Locking Devices


  Stefan Scherrer <scherrer@ifi.unizh.ch> writes on
# Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 06:31:30 GMT
  regarding the subject matter:

> almost every month, different parts get stolen from my bike (bar
> ends, pedals, etc .). The idea that came up immediately is to use
> an electronic device which starts making terrible noise as soon as
> somebody puts his/her dirty fingers on the bike.

  If you're gonna use an electronic loudish warning-signal device be
  aware that you'll aggravate innocent bystanders and/ or wake people
  sleeping nearby.  People that once have been aggravated aren't
  expected to show concern to your bike next time they pass it by.

  Still, the idea of using an electrically-powered device does have
  its merits.  How about acquiring & adapting for bike sentry use one
  of these high-voltage stun-guns (they're illegal in Sweden but may
  not be in Switzerland)?  Equip it with a fuzzy-logic control board,
  well embedded in epoxi (so that nobody tries to rip it off) and
  write a program to delived shocks at _uneven_ periods.  I.e just
  when a stunned thief has convinced himself that whatever it was
  must have drained its energy (because new brief touches of the bike
  do not result in any shocks) you buzz off again.  Combine it with
  a specific freqency that'll trigger a device like the automobile
  remote control in your pocket (certain car models have it; don't
  know how it works but it is supposed to be effective for up to
  800 m in a straight line) and you've come as close to an effective
  Early Warning And Bike Theft Deterrent[tm] device as you'll ever
  be able to.


--Ian "or else ride a folding MTB that you can take with you everywhere"
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Sealed cranks
From: chumphre@comp.vuw.ac.nz (Craig Andrew Humphrey)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 02:24:05 GMT
Organization: Victoria University, Wellington, New Zealand
Keywords: cranks bikes bicycle tech


---------

Hi, I'm having a few problems with the crank on my Giant Iguana (1990 I think).
Because of the holes in the frame (for welding) water is getting in the frame and
running down to the crank, thinning the grease and splashing powder rust
everywhere.

I've been told by a friend the you can get sealed cranks (and hubs) that
eliminate problems like this.  He recomended a crank by a German company called
FAGG.  Apparently they last for about 2.5 years of abuse and then pack up.  But
for approx NZ$40 (he does get a special deal), that's a small price to pay.

Does anyone else have any experience of sealed cranks?  What recomendations can
you make?

I'm 6'4" and the Iguana has a 23" frame with extra long Sugino (SP?) peddle
cranks, so the cranks take a lot of stress.  I've already bent one and snapped 
another (peddle cranks).

Thanks in advance.
Craig Humphrey


-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
|Craig Humphrey.     chumphre@comp.vuw.ac.nz        | The above opinions in no  |
|                    HUMPHREY_C@kosmos.wcc.govt.nz  | way represent those of    |
|Victoria University Wellington,  New Zealand.      | any sane, normal person,  |
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: jk6898@ehsn2.cen.uiuc.edu (Joseph T Kavanagh)
Subject: *** CREAK FIX ***
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 05:16:33 GMT


I had vicious creaks even after installing a sealed BB on my Chill. It
turned out that the shoulders on my crankarms were worn and were not
seating correctly. I wrapped some vinyl eletrical tape around the BB
shaft(very tightly mind you) and then used loc-tite on the bolt.
I have never had the problem again - this was a constantly re-occuring
problem. I ride about 120 miles/week (rough miles too) and this has
held for 4 months now...

Good luck!

Joe's roommate
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: dsphw@bcrka427.bnr.ca (Rick Radko)
Subject: Re: Building a Bike Frame (from scratch)
Reply-To: Don't: No email address.
Organization: Bell-Northern Research
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 13:53:08 GMT

In article <1992Sep1.214520.16212@hpcvusn.cv.hp.com>,
craig@hpcvusn.cv.hp.com (Craig Durland) writes:
> Rick Radko (dsphw@bcrka427.bnr.ca) wrote:
> 
> > I am curious though, what does a tube and lug set with all the braze
> > on's for bottles etc.  cost?
> 
> Road bikes:
> 
> Tange CRMO tubeset:	$75
> Tange Prestige tubeset:	$110
> Columbus SL:		$120
> Columbus SLX:		$160
> Columbus TLX:		$210
> Columbus EL:		$240
> Columbus MAX:		$280
> 
> Lugs: $8 (Bocoma, Tange), $14 (Columbus), $50 (Tange investment cast)
> Fork crowns:  $9 (Columbus), $21 (Cinelli, Tange)
> Bottom brackets: $12 (Silva), $15 (Everest)
> Dropouts: $13 (Columbus), $25 (Shimano)
> Brake bridge: $5
> Water bottle bosses: $.20
> Cable guides: $.48
> 
>     Craig Durland       (503) 750-3354
>     Hewlett-Packard, 1000 NE Circle, Corvallis, OR 97330
>     craig@cv.hp.com

Where can you order these parts from?  Are there any places that have
parts catalogs
for frame building?

Rick
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: glp7584@tamuts.tamu.edu (Gordon Lee Powell Jr)
Subject: helmet replacement--who does it?
Keywords: helmet replacement deals
Organization: ~/lib/organization
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 23:59:48 GMT

Howdy,

I may need to replace my Vetta helmet and am wondering which manufacturers
offer free or cheap replacements for accident damaged helmets.

I know Specialized does have a free replacement offer.  I like the way
they fit compared to my Vetta microshell, anyway.  Any others?

What are your experiences?

Gordon L. Powell, Jr. '89            glp7584@zeus.tamu.edu (VMS on VAX 9000)
Aero Engr  Texas A&M Univ.           gordon@aero.tamu.edu (D. U. on S. C.)
Oh well, some people can flame in a nitrogen environment.--Les Earnest
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: volkoffb@nextnet.csus.edu (brian volkoff)
Subject: Campagnolo Record hubs
Organization: California State University Sacramento
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 05:50:28 GMT

Greetings *,

I'm looking to find out what the difference is between two Campi
Record hubs is.  Last year I bought a Campi Record freewheel hubset
from Colorado Cyclist.  What I got were beautiful hubs (they have
the weird dust caps).  Today I received a new front wheel to replace
one that was stolen, and it is built with a different Campi Record
hub.  The new hub looks significantly different (no dust caps like
the other hub, the clip that covers the oil hole is different, the
QR skewer is different, and more).

Does anyone know what the new hub I have is, relative to the old?
For consistency, I wanted to have the same hubs front and back...
but that is mainly for asthetics.  My main purpose for having them
over other hubs are all of the claims of "they'll last forever."

e-mail is prefered (I'd like to get the answer ASAP), but I'll 
gladly wait for it to show up on the net if not.  

Thanks.
-- 
Brian Volkoff
  volkoffb@nextnet.ccs.csus.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tomk@netcom.com (Thomas H. Kunich)
Subject: Re: Freewheel Cluster Spacing
Date: Fri, 04 Sep 92 17:20:51 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)

In article <1992Sep3.234815.7029@kronos.arc.nasa.gov> iba@kronos.arc.nasa.gov (Wayne Iba) writes:
>
> Are ultra-6 cogs thinner, or do ultra-6 clusters use thinner spacers,
> or both?

The Ultra spacing uses narrower spacers between the cogs. The 6 ultra
has the same overall width as the 5 standard.
>
From: kanderso@reed.edu (Karl Anderson)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: creakondale
Date: 29 Aug 92 06:26:13 GMT
Organization: Reed College, Portland, OR

My cannondale creaked each rotation of the pedal, whether I was on the seat or
off.  The problem was in the tube _inside_ of the tube that held the seat
post.  I fixed it by pouring (light) linseed oil into the tube, then
leaving the bicycle upside down for the night.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: kistler@iowave.physics.uiowa.edu
Subject: Re: do dishless wheels ride differently?
Organization: Department of Physics and Astronomy, University of Iowa
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 22:46:42 GMT

In article <1992Aug25.195238.14752@u.washington.edu>,
 whit@milton.u.washington.edu (John Whitmore) writes:
> In article <lyanyza.tomk@netcom.com> tomk@netcom.com (Thomas H. Kunich)
> writes:
>>In article <71629@apple.Apple.COM> ehouse@Apple.COM (Eric House) writes:
> 
>>>Am I imagining things, or is it possible that having nearly identical
>>>tension in the spokes on both sides of a wheel would make it behave differ-
>>>ently from a wheel with substantially higher-tensioned spokes on one side --
>>>to a degree I could detect?
> 
>>Yep, it's your imagination. While the tension on the spokes is
>>different, the loadings on the rim are the same.
> 
> 	That isn't relevant; the rim is nearly rigid, it's the SPOKES
> that can flex under stress.  Since the spokes' behavior is determined
> by their tension, the tension difference changes the coupling
> between the axle and rim (in particular, by making the response to
> torque less stiff than for a symmetric wheel).

I agree that it's the spokes that flex.  Spokes with less tension can flex
more.  So you get a softer ride, possibly at the expense of replacing
spokes more often, unless they were overtensioned to start with, which is
usually the case on a dished wheel.

The symmetry of the wheel is irrelevant, since (one would hope) your axel
and flanges are at least as rigid as the rest of your bike (and probably
a lot more considering how small they are by comparison).  I'm not
convinced that someone might really notice the difference in the ride,
however, no matter how well calibrated your butt might be.

Allen Kistler
kistler@iowave.physics.uiowa.edu
From: tmhoff@oogoody.Corp.Sun.COM (Todd Hoff)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Cycling Gives Me A Neck Ache -- Recommenda
Date: 26 Aug 1992 01:10:55 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Distribution: world
Reply-To: tmhoff@oogoody.Corp.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: oogoody.corp.sun.com


>f I were you, I'd try taking the Lightning out for a long ride and see
>how you like the upright bars and the seat.  Also, none of these bikes
>are cheap, so you do want to make sure you have the right style for your
>body proportions.

Oh they are definitely not cheap! I can't ride a "normal" bike because
of my back. I took the lightning for a test run. I felt fine,
the handle bars felt fine, but the whole bike felt a little unstable.
I'm going to try the ryan pretty soon. The idea of the handle bars
below me is a bit unerving, although properly fitted, I can see
how the ryan might be more comfortable.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: weird@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (john.t.erhardt)
Subject: Shimano brakes not traking
Organization: AT&T
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 14:06:39 GMT

Hi,

A few weeks ago there was a discussion about the Shimano dual pivot brakes.
I have a pair on my road bike (RX100)    When ever I'm slowing down,
but not applying the brakes really hard, the fork vibrates visibly
and audibly.  I have the aluminum Cannondale fork which is supposed to be
more shock absorbing than their old steel one, but I didn't think it
should flex that much.  So now what I'm suspecting in the front brake.
The fork never vibrates that much when going over bumpy roads or when
appyling the brakes really hard, so I think since my front training wheel
isn't quite true anymore, maybe the brakes aren't traking very well on
it causing everything to vibrate.  Does anyone agree?  Has anyone experienced
this problem?

John

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: asrbh@acad2.alaska.edu
Subject: Re: Locking Devices
Organization: University of Alaska
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 21:52:42 GMT

In article <1992Sep1.063130.10009@ifi.unizh.ch>, scherrer@ifi.unizh.ch (Stefan Scherrer) writes:
> Hi there,
> 
> excuse me if this is a faq, but I suffer a problem that needs a definitive solution. Having a fairly expensive ATB, I would like to protect it from thieves. As an overall solution, a Kryponite locker does a rather good job. Nevertheless, almost every month, different parts get stolen from my bike (bar ends, pedals, etc.). The idea that came up immediately is to use an electronic device which starts making terrible noise as soon as somebody puts his/her dirty fingers on the bike.
> 
> I propose to start a discussion on the usefulness of such systems (if there exist any). 
> Please mail me any vendor names and experiences, I'll summarize.
> 
> Cheers, Stefan.
> 
> 
> ---
> Stefan Scherrer                         Phone   : +41 1 257 45 76 
> Institut fuer Informatik                Fax     : +41 1 363 00 35
> Universitaet Zuerich                    Telex   : 817 251 unii ch 
> Winterthurerstrasse 190                 EAN     : scherrer@ifi.unizh.ch
> CH-8057 Zuerich, Switzerland 
> ---

	For any part that is held by an allen head bolt, simply melt
solder into the bolt head.  This discourages the theft of handlebars,
derailleurs, stems, etc.  For maintenance the solder is removed by the
application of heat.  Only drawback is the thief may cut cables before
finding he(she) cannot unbolt the part.  This is my first try at
a reply, so please excuse incompetence.
From: dinsdale@chtm.eece.unm.edu (Don McDaniel)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Aero Equipment Comments Wanted !!!
Keywords: Aero
Date: 4 Sep 92 19:46:43 GMT
Organization: University of New Mexico, Albuquerque

In article <1992Sep4.152238.25270@swlvx2.msd.ray.com> eak@swlrfg (EFTHYMIOS KIAFOULIS) writes:
>
>
>   Does a camel-back liquid retainer offer any aero advantages 
>   over a normally mounted water bottle cage and bottle other
>   than not having to break rythm to drink ??
>
this gets us out of equipment and into technique, but...

if you're doing ITTs of 40 km and shorter distances, you don't need to
drink at all.  You should carry no water or containers.  Take your
bottle cages off if you're going for a PR.

If you hydrate fully before the race, you can go for an hour with no
loss of efficiency without rehydrating (in all but the most brutal
heat).  You may be uncomfortable with a dry mouth but you can get
used to it.  When I was first given this advice I thought it was
crazy, but i've since verified it through personal experience,
observations of others (Frey, Bostick et al) and articles on human
performance that I've read.

So... get tough and loose those water bottles!!


--
_________________________________________________________________
Don McDaniel                           dinsdale@chtm.eece.unm.edu
Center for High Technology Materials
University of New Mexico
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech