From: njl@drutx.ATT.COM (LaRocheNJ)
Newsgroups: rec.pets
Subject: Re: bunny questions
Summary: I'm going to start keeping an FAQ on bunny questions.
Date: 21 Jul 92 19:34:45 GMT
Organization: AT&T, Denver, CO

I'm running short on time, so some of this will be a bit abbreviated for
now.  But while I'm at it, I'm going to start an FAQ file, so thanks for
motivating me to do so.  And sometime within the next century, I'll post
when I have it more or less complete...

In article <mjc.711655999@NL.CS.CMU.EDU>, mjc+@cs.cmu.edu (Monica Cellio) writes:
> - I abhor cages.  I want to give my rabbit the run of the house.  He is 
>   2 years old and has been mostly cage-kept until now.  How hard will it
>   be to litter train him?  How do I go about it?  How long will it take?

You'll need one anyway, but it should be your bunny's HOME, not his
prison.  He'll learn to distinguish between his home, where he drops pills
to mark it as belonging to him, and your home, where he doesn't.  I do know
of one family that replaced their carpet with ceramic tile and provided
hideaways for their bunnies and get away with no "cage," but they're
willing to make all the adjustments in their lives so the bunny needs make
none.

> - What is the life expectancy of a male dwarf?

About 12 years (ignore the "5-6 year" statements--they're wrong) if
properly cared for.

>   (If he's not neutered now,
>   he will be -- or is it too late to do that safely?)

It is never to late to neuter a male bunny as long as he's in good health.

> - What sort of medical problems are likely to come up?  What do you spend
>   on vet bills in an average year?

I rescue rabbits whose time is up at shelters or who are in abusive
situations and too ill for shelters to take, get them healthy if anything
is wrong, have them spayed/neutered, litter train and socialize them, etc.
and find homes for them.  I also have my own house rabbits, so I've had
lots of experience in the vet-bill department.  I'd say my average
per-bunny vet expenditures (for those who are healthy to begin with, and
not counting spay and neuter fees, or injuries from fights--I have to get
all these characters willing to share the same outdoor space) are less
than $10/year.  Of course, this has a lot to do with knowing how to keep
problems from occuring and what a good diet consists of, as well as
spotting potential problems early, but you can learn all of this, too.
Most rabbits will have no vet bills, but on the other hand, one of my own
and one belonging to some other people I know, have cost us over $1,000.
In fact, theirs may range to several times that by now, but they see it as
contributing to the body of medical bunny-knowledge (a lot of research is
being done and they've had "people" specialists involved--really quite
exciting).

Anyway, that's a long answer, but chances are you will spend no more than
$100/year max on one rabbit providing you learn how to prevent, spot, and
treat the common problems rabbits have (hock sores, hairballs, digestive
problems).  And you may very well spend nothing.

>                                Once a year I go away for about 10 days;
>   I'm sure I can get someone to come in to feed him and play with him, but
>   I probably can't get someone to actually stay at my place.  Is this a 
>   problem?  (Boarding costs an awful lot, it seems.)  

He'll get very lonely, and if not caged, is likely to get destructive.

>   Would getting two rabbits instead of one help?

Definitely.

> If so, how hard would it be to add another rabbit at a later time?

Get a young rabbit of the opposite sex and it probably will be no problem,
but there are some measures to take in introducing them to each other.

> - I gather that rabbits tend to eat any paper they come into contact with.
>   Is keeping paper off the floor sufficient, or do I have to be more careful?
>   How much of a tendency to explore, say, papers on a desk am I facing?

Rabbits are some of the most curious animals there are and some will climb
any place they can get to.  Mostly, though, their interests lie in whatever
you are doing and whatever is on the floor.  Just don't provide "steps" up
to your desk and you'll be okay.

> - Do rabbits tend to eat the furniture or use it as a scratching post?  What
>   about wood such as trim and fireplaces?  (I just got done restoring my
>   living room; I don't want to have to do it again.)

Rabbits tend to chew on everything in sight, but there are methods of
rabbit proofing.  Mostly you simply have to give them good things to chew
on that are okay--untreated straw baskets, hay, a chunk of untreated pine
lumber (a 1"x2" would be good for a dwarf), etc.

They also love to dig on carpet.  You can prevent this by putting pieces of
plexiglass, wood, etc. over the spots your rabbit chooses (usually corners
or the ends of "tunnels" formed by two pieces of furniture being a few
inches apart against the wall).

> - Are people who are allergic to cats likely to have problems with rabbits?
>   (I'm fine, but I have some friends...)

Most people allergic to cats are not allergic to rabbits and vice versa.
But there are no guarantees.

For more complete information, get the book "House Rabbit Handbook"--it
runs $8.95.  If you can't find it, you can order it from me by sending
$10--$1.05 for postage plus $8.95 for the book--to:

	Bunny Love
	1271 Birch St.
	Broomfield, CO  80020

You can also send a SASE (a dollar or two to help cover copying costs is
greatly appreciated) for articles on diet, litter training, a phamphlet
called "Living with a House Rabbit," and whatever else I might have by then
to:
	House Rabbit Society
	1271 Birch St.
	Broomfield, CO  80020

Good luck with your bunny--you're in for a real treat!

Nancy LaRoche (HRS)
att!drutx!njl