HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: rcm@col.hp.com (hpctdfc)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: ?!?->"DME"<-?!?
Date: 14 Dec 1992 18:10:34 GMT
Organization: Don't ask me, I'm Lost!
NNTP-Posting-Host: hpctdfc.col.hp.com

> Not in the same way, and only if you substituted syrup for dry.  Your
> recipe does use "DME" to mean "dry malt" -- because there's no "dark
> diastatic malt extract", and even if there were, a recipe wouldn't
> call for 7 lbs. of it...(per my earlier comments).

Sure there is, and sure it could.  Edme makes light diastatic malt
extract AND DARK diastatic malt extract, readily available at most
any good homebrew or mailorder shop.  How can you make a good stout
without using 7 lbs or more of malt???
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: gak@wrs.com (Richard Stueven)
Subject: Re: Couple of quick questions...
Reply-To: gak@wrs.com
Organization: Wind River Systems, Inc.
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 19:41:00 GMT

In article 71587@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu, cdl0@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (CONRAD DANIEL LLOYD-KNIGHT) writes:
>Hello everybody!
>
>Please forgive my total ignorance of these matters, but I'm quite new at this
>brewing stuff (2nd batch busilly fermenting...). Anyway, these questions:
>
>1) [...] My question is this: isn't half
>(nearly) boiling temp and half cold water a little hot to chuck the poor
>yeasty people in (boiling lobsters screaming comes to mind...)?

Possibly.  70F or 80F is a good pitching temperature.  You should check
the temperature with a sanitized thermometer before pitching.

>I followed
>these directions last time and bubbling didn't start for about 4-5 days. This
>time I let the beer-to-be cool down to about 90 deg F. first and it started
>bubbling almost immediately. Was it a problem with the first lot of yeast or
>was it the temperature?

Or was it aeration or was it the phase of the moon?  :-)

Seriously, it's hard to tell exactly without a lot more information:
did you make a yeast starter?  (I'm guessing not.)  What kind of
yeast?  What was the room temperature during the lag time?  (Lag time
is the amount of time between pitching the yeast and seeing activity in
the beer.)

My advice (which you might modify for your own circumstances):

- Put the cold water in your fermenter, then rack the hot wort in.
- Be sure the temperature is 80F or less.
- Seal your fermenter and shake it for a couple of minutes to mix air into the wort.
- Open the fermenter and pitch the yeast.
- Seal it up and relax.

You should see activity within twelve hours or so.

>2)To what degree does temp. affect hydrometer readings?

My opinion:  not enough to Really Matter.  What's a couple of points
here and there?  (There are WAY too many scientists on this newsgroup! :-)

>Is room temp. fairly
>accurate?

Hydrometers are generally calibrated to be accurate at 60F.  Someone
somewhere has a correction chart for temperatures other than 60F.

>And what does an OG of 1024 at 95 deg F. work out as?

It works out as Very Low!  What kind of beer is this?  I'd like to see
the recipe, and your notes, if you have them handy...

have fun
gak

---
Richard Stueven       AHA# 22584 |----------|
Internet:            gak@wrs.com |----GO----| Did ye spill wor pint?!?
ATTMAIL: ...!attmail!gakhaus!gak |---SHARX--|
Cow Palace:            107/H/3-4 |----------|

From: green@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (Bob Green)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 20:19:42 GMT
Subject: Re: Newcastle Brown
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing

Try taking 1# of English 2-row pale malt, baking it in an oven for 30 minutes
at 350o. Then crack the grain and add to other adjuncts. This is 'toasted malt'.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: murray@rocky.raleigh.ibm.com (Charlie Murray)
Subject: Re: Aeration of wort?
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 16:10:01 GMT
Organization: IBM, Research Triangle Park, North Carolina

In article <9261@verdix.verdix.com>, mark@verdix.com (Mark Lundquist) writes:

|> Well, even if the aquarium folks are right about "aquarium bubbler vs.
|> no bubbler", I don't know if you can extrapolate that to "sloshing,
|> etc. vs. doing nothing."  I assume that fish lovers have other reasons
|> for not wanting to subject their fishtanks to the same treatment that
|> is recommended for carboys full of wort (i.e., shake the bejabbers out
|> of it)!  In other words, if the "aquarians" are right it would only
|> mean that putting an aquarium pump in your wort (don't laugh) won't
|> help; not *necessarily* that sloshing, etc. won't.

My local homebrew shop (American Brewmaster in Raleigh, NC) is going to sell
an aeriation device that is basically a fish tank bubbler.  The claim is that
by leaving this thing in your primary for the first 24 hours, you will get
superior aeriation and subsequently fermentation (versus the slosh method).
Are they on the mark?

--------------------------------------------------------------------
  Charlie Murray           CompuServe:  73707,1752
  Consulting at IBM        Internet:    73707.1752@compuserve.com

  NOTE:  If sending email use the addresses given in this .sig,
         not the one in the header of this message.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Subject: Re: COMPUSENET DEC 10
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1992 02:55:05 GMT
Organization: ddsw1.MCS.COM Contributor, Chicago, IL
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL3

jbasara@ssdc.UUCP (Jim Basara) writes:
: 
: Maybe if we all put "Compuserve SUCKS" and "you can get News for free" in 
: our .sig files, the crossposting would stop.
: 
: just a thought
: 

Sometimes the simplest ideas are the best.  That's a terrific idea.
However, I don't think the objective should be to restrict our coverage
but to share the wisdom of the community with as large a community as
possible.  I think we simply should negotiate an exception to the rule
with CIS and use your suggestion as a threat.  It could be expanded to be
a real killer.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: gak@wrs.com (Richard Stueven)
Subject: Re: Newcastle Brown
Reply-To: gak@wrs.com
Organization: Wind River Systems, Inc.
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 17:46:33 GMT

In article 32290016@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM, green@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (Bob Green) writes:
>Try taking 1# of English 2-row pale malt, baking it in an oven for 30 minutes
>at 350o. Then crack the grain and add to other adjuncts. This is 'toasted malt'.

The key word in this passage is "bake".

If your oven, like mine, has a switch
that allows you to select "bake" or "broil",
be sure it is set to "bake".

Do not broil your grain.

It will catch fire.

:-(

gak

---
Richard Stueven        gak@wrs.com         attmail!gakhaus!gak        107/H/3&4

	The prestige of government has undoubtedly been lowered
	considerably by the Prohibition law. For nothing is more
	destructive of respect for the government and the law of the
	land than passing laws which cannot be enforced. It is an open
	secret that the dangerous increase of crime in this country is
	closely connected with this.
     		-- Albert Einstein, "My First Impression of the U.S.A.", 1921
From: russ@hpkslx.mayfield.HP.COM (Russ Lown)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 17:15:55 GMT
Subject: Dry Hopping Questions...
Organization: HP Response Center Lab
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing

Hi all,

I've noticed in a lot of the recipes posted here, dry hopping is involved.
I would like to try dry hopping, but i'm not sure of the process.  

My main question deals with risk of infection from the hops.  Do i have
to sterilize the hops before i add them to the secondary, or will the
alcohol content of the secondary eliminate this risk?

Is it better to use hops in pellet or leaf form?

Maybe some of you whom have "dry hopped" could tell me what method you use.

Thanks,

Russ
---

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~ Russ Lown, Response Center Lab      |                                    ~
~ Hewlett-Packard  MS 37MA  /__  ___  | "Between two evils,                ~
~ 100 Mayfield Ave.        /  / /__/  |     I always choose the one        ~
~ Mt. View, CA 94043 USA       /      |         I've never tried before."  ~
~ E-mail: lownr@mayfield.hp.com       |                                    ~ 
~ Phone : (415) 691-3421              |                                    ~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
From: fortner@hal.eng.ufl.edu (Dave Fortner)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: DME
Date: 17 Dec 92 20:28:48 GMT
Organization: University of Florida

In article <klumpp-161292180358@alexander.nbp.nwu.edu> klumpp@casbah.acns.nwu.edu (David Klumpp) Klumpp) (David Klumpp) writes:
>	Of course, this is yet another reason to go all-grain!  With regard to
>that, does anyone out there get 5-7 gal to boil on an electric stove?  I
>want to know before I take the final plunge and buy a large kettle.  I live
>in a high-rise, so getting a gas stove is impossible.
>
>Dave
>
I use an electric stove and it takes some time just to boil 1.5 gal., I
don't think that you could get 5 gal to boil. My recommendation is that
you get a camp stove (a.k.a. Coleman). In my younger days I used to 
melt lead on a coleman stove to cast bullets, you can't do that with
an electric OR gas stove and you can usually pick up a used one for
$10 to $15US. Be forewarned, when you crank up the heat that much
the stove will need to have the generator (the tube that goes from
the gas tank to the burner) replaced more frequently, but this only
costs $3 to $8US for the part and can be done in about 15 min.

Dave Fortner
Fortner-D@3mail.ksc.nasa.gov

Disclaimer: I AIN'T RESPONSIBLE FOR NOTHIN'
From: sandy@hpwrce.mayfield.hp.com (Sandy Knight)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 22:36:30 GMT
Subject: Pubs in SARASOTA
Organization: the HP Mtn.View Resp. Cntr.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing

Fellow beer lovers,

I will be visiting the SARASOTA, FLORIDA area on Sunday and Monday and was
wondering if there are any brewpubs worth a visit in this area?

I realize this is short notice but any response (EMAIL or reply to this) would
be welcome.

Thanks in advance,

Sandy Knight (sandy@hpwrce.mayfield.hp.com)

------------- OR ---------------------
 
Sandy Knight (sandy@hpwrc04.mayfield.hp.com)
From: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us (Joseph Nathan Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Bubblegum ester?
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 92 20:00:54 EDT
Organization: 5 Sigma Software
Reply-To: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us
X-Mailer: uAccess - Macintosh Release: 1.5v5


What is the stuff used to flavor bubblegum that is prominent in the
bouquet of some Belgian brews?

=======================================================================
uunet!joebloe!joseph   (609) 273-8200 day   joseph%joebloe@uunet.uu.net
2102 Ryan's Run East        Rt 38 & 41             Maple Shade NJ 08052
Copyright 1992 by Joseph N. Hall.   Permission granted to copy and
redistribute freely over USENET and by email.  Commercial use prohibited.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: guido@island.COM (Guido Marx)
Subject: Problem with first Lager
Summary: Why aren't my yeast going ?
Organization: Island Graphics Corp.  San Rafael, Ca.
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 19:11:28 GMT

I am a new brewer - I have five batches of ales under my belt.  This
week I decided to try my first lager (since it has now gotten cold
enough).  I used the following recipie:

5 lbs Dry malt extract
1 lb Crystal Malt 40 L
1.5 oz Northern Brewer hops 6.0 Alpha Acid
Wyeast #2112 (California Lager)

and some yeast nutrient

This is the first time I have used liquid yeast.  On monday I
popped the pouch in the bag.  By tuesday afternoon it had
swollen so much I thought it might pop.  I then put the yeast
into a 16 oz starter (4 tbsp. of DME boiled in 16 oz of water).
I let that sit for another day, and it started fermenting vigorously.
On wednesday evening I cooked up the beer and pitched the yeast.
As of this morning (friday), I still am not seeing any noticeable signs of 
fermentation (no krausen forming).  The beer is in my garage where the
temperature varies between 50 - 55 F.  Is this a normal lag time for
liquid yeast ?  All my previous batches of ale had vigorous signs of
fermentation going within 6 hours of pitching.  Any suggestions
on what I can do to get this going ?  I am starting to worry and
I am at work so I can't have a homebrew ;*)  Should I bring the
fermenter inside until the fermentation gets going ?  I think that
if I don't see any fermentation going by tomorrow I am going to 
pitch in some dry lager yeast.

Guido

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: garnett@refuge.Colorado.EDU (Santiago de la Paz)
Subject: Mashing fruit
Summary: how to do it? 
Organization: Cogwheel Inc, Boulder
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1992 20:23:53 GMT

A few days ago there was a discussion about bananas in the wort, and why
the beer came out of the fermenter tasting nothing like bananas.  I'm no 
chemist, by any stretch of the imagination -- is it true that the starches
in the bananas simply had to be converted to sugars like anything else?  This
seems to make sense... but if so, how?  

I have at times tried to duplicate Thomas Kemper, or at least the blueberry-
tasting Thomas Kemper we used to get here in Boulder before some sort of
export-insanity stopped our supply.  Each time I get a brew that tastes
distinctly like *some* kind of fruit, but not at all the blueberry blast
I remember from Kemper.  I started trying this recipe a few years ago with
extracts and have since moved on to all-grain, but the flavor always remains
indistinguishable.  Until now I've just been putting 4lbs of blueberries in
the cooling wort, and then transferring the whole thing to a primary for a 
week.

I've been told by a few people that I need to stew the blueberries first.  Is
this just a cheap way of mashing the blueberries?  Is there a better way?  Can
someone with an idea of what is actually happening & needed explain this to me?

~james

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
            James Garnett  Networking Development team manager
                          garnett@colorado.edu

  Cogwheel Incorporated, Boulder  ***  Producers of low-cost dialup IP routers
                        Boulder-Denver/Hong Kong
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: murray@rocky.raleigh.ibm.com (Charlie Murray)
Subject: Re: COMPUSENET DEC 10
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 20:53:00 GMT
Organization: IBM, Research Triangle Park, North Carolina

In article <921213626@ritz.mordor.com>, ritz@ritz.mordor.com (Christopher Mauritz) writes:
|> nothing a bullet in the belly couldn't cure (stewarte@sco.COM) wrote:
|> OS/2> 
|> OS/2> Hmm, so Compuserve subscribers get the (perhaps dubious) benefit
|> OS/2> of our wit & wisdom, but we can't receive theirs?  Seems unfair.
|> OS/2> I guess now I know why some folks put disclaimers on their Usenet
|> OS/2> postings to the effect that they can be reproduced anywhere except
|> OS/2> on commercial services.
|> 
|> What good does that do?  You have absolutely no means of enforcing 
|> such restrictions.  I too am a bit annoyed that Compuserve takes
|> advantage of the net without providing any services in return,
|> but there doesn't seem to be anything we can do about it.  I feel
|> the same way about those leaches who make CD-ROMs out of FTP
|> archives and sell them.
|> 
|> Cheers,
|> 
|> Chris
|> 
|> --
|> Christopher Mauritz                 | My views reflect those of my
|> ritz@ritz.mordor.com                | company since I own the company.
|> {backbone}!rutgers!spcvxb!ritz!ritz | Ritz International, Inc.
|> OS/2 OS/2 OS/2 OS/2 OS/2 OS/2 OS/2  | Import/Export Consultants

How does CompuServe take advantage of the net?  What CompuServe services do you want?  Anyone that thinks this net is free, obviously doesn't pay any federal income taxes.

As for the "leaches" making the CD-ROMs from archives, I say "THE MORE THE BETTER!!!"  If I can get the entire uunet archives, or gnu code, or emacs, or Tex conveniently on a CD-ROM, I'm all for it!  It is EASILY worth the $30-50 for the disk if I don't have to ftp or download the stuff (which could take hours, and then where do you store 5GB of files).  Remember, they are NOT selling the files, but the service.

--------------------------------------------------------------------
  Charlie Murray           CompuServe:  73707,1752
  Consulting at IBM        Internet:    73707.1752@compuserve.com

  NOTE:  If sending email use the addresses given in this .sig,
         not the one in the header of this message.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: roy.rudebusch@travel.com (Roy Rudebusch) 
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: illegal homebrew
Date: 12 Dec 92 07:59:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Travel Online / St. Louis Online - St. Louis, MO
Reply-To: roy.rudebusch@travel.com (Roy Rudebusch) 

To: chip upsal 71762,317
FROM: roy.rudebusch@travel.com

Dear Chip;

Did you mention something about the illegality of HBing in Missouri? We
have people working on the project at present.

As for a sour raspberry beer. I would recommend using Wheatbeer yeast if
too much attentiveness is a problem try to isolate the delbrucki yeast
and use that, I've done it - works!

I have threatened to use yogurt to sour a beer. I think it would be a
much better source for lactobaccilus, no?

 * OLX 2.2 * marriage is ok, but I wouldn't recommend it for singles
                                                                                        
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: pklauren@nmsu.edu (Patrick M Klaurens)
Subject: yeast nutrients
Organization: NMSU Computer Science
Distribution: rec.crafts.brewing
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 22:16:24 GMT

I read the post about bakers yeast being boiled and used as a
nutrient.  Since I had a very slowly fermenting Barkshack Ginger Mead
brewing I took a seven gram package of ale yeast and froze it.  I then
added it to boiling water and nuked it for 30 seconds.  After thirty
hours in an open frementer the brew was bubbling, but slowly, there
was ample yeasty floaties in the mead, yet the SG was nearly
unchanged.  I added the nuked yeast and twenty four hours later the
dried foam floating up with the crushed Kiwi fruit was noticably
thicker, there were more floaties, and the SG went from 045 to 030.
the mead in my hydrometer flask was bubbling to the point that
spinning the hydrometer produced more bubbles.  I think that the idea
worked, but hell, for all I know my yeast woke up, or the ale yeast
stated to ferment the brew. 

pat
From: russ@hpkslx.mayfield.HP.COM (Russ Lown)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 15:41:32 GMT
Subject: Centennial Ale Recipe Wanted
Organization: HP Response Center Lab
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing

I recently tried "Centennial Ale" from the North Coast Brewing Company in
Fort Bragg, California, and found it very tasty (yum).  I'm going to try
and recreate it.

I was wondering if anyone has a recipe which closely resembles this ale.  
It seems to be a standard pale/crystal malt mix with maybe some wheat malt
in it.  

Thanks,


russ
---

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~ Russ Lown, Response Center Lab      |                                    ~
~ Hewlett-Packard  MS 37MA  /__  ___  | "Between two evils,                ~
~ 100 Mayfield Ave.        /  / /__/  |     I always choose the one        ~
~ Mt. View, CA 94043 USA       /      |         I've never tried before."  ~
~ E-mail: lownr@mayfield.hp.com       |                                    ~ 
~ Phone : (415) 691-3421              |                                    ~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
From: g1400023@nickel.laurentian.ca
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Gleaming immersion chiller
Date: 16 Dec 92 04:44:06 GMT
Organization: Laurentian University

I also have a gleaming immersion chiller after I boil it in the wort.
I like to think that it is reducing back to copper...it makes me feel
better.

However, I once tried sanitizing it in a bleach and water and it did
not come out gleaming. But once I pull it out of my pot containing the 
wort it chilled it came out gleaming.

The water here is moderate...not to hard and not to soft, but just right
after you run it through one of those waterpic filter things on the tap.

My $0.02.....Carlo
From: steve@csufres.CSUFresno.EDU (Steve Mitchell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Couple of quick questions...
Date: 16 Dec 92 16:11:12 GMT
Organization: California State University, Fresno

In article <9262@verdix.verdix.com> mark@verdix.com (Mark Lundquist) writes:
>important distinction to recognize is the distinction between
>"oxidizing" and "oxygenating" ("aerating").  They are fundamentally
>different things.  The former is a chemical reaction.  The latter is a
>physical process.  This is the distinction that Mr. Mitchell failed to
>make in his posting.

This is the distinction that Mr. Mitchell failed to make in his
brain as well. :)  

Thanks for the education, folks.  I was not aware that "oxidizing"
and "oxygenating" are distinctly different processes.

Brew and learn..

--steve
--
Steve Mitchell / steve_mitchell@csufresno.edu / steve@caticsuf.csufresno.edu
"STUFF: Anything that can be used for homebrewing."  "JUNK: Everything else
you thought could be used for homebrewing, but can't."
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: chris@gerty.equinox.gen.nz (Christopher Sawtell)
Subject: n
Organization: C. Sawtell & L. R. Roberts.
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8]
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1992 00:46:31 GMT

I'm very new to this news thing. would be grateful if somebody could tell me if
this group also includes wine-making?

Christopher Sawtell
From: mark@verdix.com (Mark Lundquist)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Compuserve, Copyrights etc. ad nauseum
Date: 20 Dec 92 01:06:49 GMT
Article-I.D.: verdix.9270
Organization: Verdix Western Operations, Aloha  OR

Can't this be taken to net.misc or wherever?

Let's get back to beer, and the brewing and drinking therof!
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: ulick@stravinsky.helios.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford)
Subject: Re: Brewing with "soft" water
Organization: OUC, University of Notre Dame
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 19:52:00 GMT

In article <1992Dec15.081057.9493@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com> sabat@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com writes:
>Does anyone know if brewing with "soft" water (from a home water softener)
>versus "hard" water really makes a difference in how the beer will come out.
>A friend at work made his first batch using the "soft" water and the beer came
>out weak, light, and in general "watered down".  He is making a second batch
>but is changing only one thing, using the "hard" water.  I know that water
>conditioners such as gypsum are sometimes added to the water when brewing but
>I was wondering if any of you in NETland have first hand experience in what he
>can expect in this next batch.

nNEVER Brew with water softened conventionally, i.e. replacing calcium with
sodium ions.  High sodium in the levels of a softener makes terrible beer.
Get water before the softener.  Chances are its OK unless it's high iron.
If it is tto hard boil before use and a lot of calcium will chalk out.

REad Miller on water.  Other type softeners may be fine such as reverse 
osmosis.


+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 
+ 'There was a  master come unto the earth, + Ulick Stafford, PP-ASEL       +
+    born in the holy land of Indiana,      + Dept of Chemical Engineering, +
+ in the mystical hills east of Fort Wayne'.+ Notre Dame, IN 46556          +
+      B'fhearr liom bheith ag eitilt.      +    ulick@bach.helios.nd.edu   +
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++