HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: rslau@usc.edu (Robert Lau)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Andrew Gilchrist
Date: 13 Nov 1992 21:27:47 -0800
Organization: University of Southern California, USA
	<gilchr.721637909@ee.ualberta.ca>
NNTP-Posting-Host: tarazed.usc.edu
In-reply-to: gilchr@ee.ualberta.ca's message of Fri, 13 Nov 1992 06:58:29 GMT

In article <gilchr.721637909@ee.ualberta.ca> gilchr@ee.ualberta.ca (Andrew Gilchrist) writes:

   You should read the original post before publicly uttering things like
   this.  It is clear you have NO idea what we're talking about.

   The 91dB (dB damnit!) you are referring to is dB/W@1m, meaning the
   on-axis SPL generated by the speaker at 1meter distance with a 1 watt
   input in a anechoic chamber. The frequency of the input is usually specified
   as well.

Sigh, another username added to my kill list.

Andrew, please refrain from posting to the net while you've got a baseball
bat up your ass.  Go take some ibuphrophen and join us in a week or so okay?

Is this guy trying to be another Roger Carasso?

-- 
Robert Lau - Systems Programmer, Unix Systems     213-740-2866
--  University Computing Services                 Internet: rslau@usc.edu
--  University of Southern California             Bitnet:   rslau@uscvm
--  1020 W Jefferson, LA, CA  USA, 90089-0251     UUCP:     ...!uunet!usc!rslau
From: ln@doc.ic.ac.uk (Leonidas Nikidis)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Install a Pioneer CD-M30
Date: 9 Nov 1992 15:03:57 -0000
Organization: Department of Computing, Imperial College, University of London, UK.
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: oak28.doc.ic.ac.uk
Keywords: Pioneer


Hi,

I am looking at buying a Pioneer CD changer Model M30. I would like to install it
in a Peugeot 205 (3door).
Could someone suggest an alternative place that I could fit it, apart from the
boot.



 Any helpful advice would be appreciated:
				
					Thank you,

					Leo.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Internet: ln@doc.ic.ac.uk	Imperial College , London, UK.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: gilchr@ee.ualberta.ca (Andrew Gilchrist)
Subject: Re: Suitable Capacitor?
Organization: University Of Alberta, Edmonton Canada
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 10:23:00 GMT

brian@hopi.eel.ufl.edu (Brian Gentry) writes:
>In article <gilchr.720422686@ee.ualberta.ca>, (Andrew Gilchrist) writes:
>[...]
>|> 47000 uF should work ok.  You should wire this up at the load end (by the
>|> amplifier).  Since this cap is likely a huge polarized electrolytic, make
>|> sure you put in another smaller capacitor in parallel (like a 10 uF
>|> tantalum cap, or something).

>I am aware that in CROSSOVERS some people use a "high quality" capacitor 
>in parallel with an electrolytic because of the non-linear qualities of
>electrolytics, but I have never heard of this in a power supply filtering
>application.  Why would you suggest doing this? 

I suggest this because it is a very good idea.  Also, it has nothing to do
with "non-linear" qualities of electrolytics.  It is because of the way
electrolytics (particularly LARGE ones) are constructed.  It gives them
a noticable series inductance.  High frequencies are rejected by this.
Thus the need for higher frequency bypass capacitors (small caps).
Why have you never heard of such a thing in a power supply application?
Do you know ANYTHING about power supplies?  Gadzooks, even the
Radio-SHack introduction to electronics book (the one with all the
happy faces on the electrons) tells you to put a small bypass capacitor
across the power pins of all ICs.

Every schematic for any linear regulator I've ever seen instructs the use
of a secondary small capacitor in parallel with the big one.

Stop reading audio magazines and thinking they know what they're
talking about.
From: ir_johns@chef.uwe.ac.uk (Ian Johnson)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Is there a FAQ?, Alternator Whine
Date: 6 Nov 92 11:06:58 GMT
Followup-To: rec.audio.car
Organization: The Transputer Centre, University of the West of England, UK

Two questions:

1. Is there a FAQ for this group?

2. I'm having problems with alternator whine. Problem started when I reconfigured
   my rear amp so that instead of 2x120w it was giving 2x50 1x120 and installed
   a large sub running off the 120w line. All the new cabling follows the old and
   prior to this change, I couldn't find any interference from electrical goodies
   in the car, now its horrible. Any suggestions?
     a) Why? ( Why me :))
     b) Cure?

Many thanks
-- 
Ian Johnson  (irj@uk.ac.uwe.hal) 
             Usual disclaimer applies
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: tumbush@tigris.eng.ohio-state.edu (Gregory J. Tumbush)
Subject: Carver line of Amps: Opions?
Organization: The Ohio State University Dept of Electrical Engineering
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 14:57:14 GMT

Hello All,

  I was wondering if anyone has any opions on the Carver line of
amplifiers?  In particular the M-2040i listing for $250.
Does anyone know if this amp has MOSFET output devices? I'm
wary of this amp because of the speaker level inputs. Isn't this
an option usually only found on cheap amps?

It's specs are:

              Power:  40x2
                      80x1

                      .5% THD
                      S-N 95dB
                      20-20,000 Frequency response
                      Subsonic filter
                      RCA and speaker level inputs

Thanks,
Greg
From: trouttm@wkuvx1.bitnet
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Carver line of Amps: Opions?
Date: 12 Nov 92 13:18:29 CST
Distribution: usa
Organization: Western Kentucky University, Bowling Green, KY

In article <1992Nov12.145714.1601@ee.eng.ohio-state.edu>, tumbush@tigris.eng.ohio-state.edu (Gregory J. Tumbush) writes:
> Hello All,
> 
>   I was wondering if anyone has any opions on the Carver line of
> amplifiers?  In particular the M-2040i listing for $250.
> Does anyone know if this amp has MOSFET output devices? I'm
> wary of this amp because of the speaker level inputs. Isn't this
> an option usually only found on cheap amps?
> 
> It's specs are:
> 
>               Power:  40x2
>                       80x1
> 
>                       .5% THD
>                       S-N 95dB
>                       20-20,000 Frequency response
>                       Subsonic filter
>                       RCA and speaker level inputs
> 
> Thanks,
> Greg


What's an OPION?
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: sct173wapsc@vx24.cc.monash.edu.au
Subject: Hints wanted for sound off points.
Organization: Computer Centre, Monash University, Australia
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 01:45:55 GMT

Hello fellow car audio enthusiasts,
    I have been reading this group for quite awhile (about 7 months)
and have finally bought myself a semi-reasonable system. Down here in
Australia we are unable to purchase some of the equipment that you talk
about directly from the audio shops, we have to get it imported. 
This makes building up any decent system costly. The only decent brand
that the shops do stock is Alpine.
    My system consists of a Pioneer 3250QR head unit, A EQ6000 graphic,
a 3553 Alpine 4 channel amp (35w RMS/ channel), and a 3540 Alpine (30w
RMS/ channel amp. The 3540 is driving 6256CD 5 1/4" 35w RMS speakers in
the front doors and also Pioneer TST11 tweeters in the dash. The 3553 
is controlling a Kenwood KSC7701 sub box (2 10" subs) and a pair of 
6396SX Alpine 6 x 9" rear speakers.
    The amps are mounted in a customised enclosure in the hatch next
to the sub box with the 6 x 9's mounted in a customised parcel shelf
(sorry.... I forgot to mention the type of car.. it is a 87 Nissan
Pulsar hatch...). The head unit and graphic are mounted in the 
stock position in the dash. Front speakers are stock position in
door and tweeters are mounted next to mirrors.
    Now the system is installed I will be entering the car in my
first sound-off, and I was wondering if there are any tips anyone can
give me to earn some extra points. I read up on your write-ups 
about your recent big sound-off in the states and some of the ideas
were really neat..(neon lighting!!!) but the sound-offs down here
are just starting to take off and things like that haven't come
in yet. I know if I installed things like that i'd probably win,
but I really don't have the finances, and I doubt if any installers
would know how to go about it. 
   I was really just looking for ideas that were cheap and simple
that the judges would like, ie, what you all did in your first sound-
off.
   Any help I could get would be apprieciated, and thank-you in
advance for the replies.


David.
   
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: grichard@swimming.cis.ohio-state.edu (Golden Richard III)
Subject: Re: Targa??
Organization: The Ohio State University Dept. of Computer and Info. Science
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 19:41:56 GMT

In article <2930445647.0.p00140@psilink.com> "Gary A. Woodward" <p00140@psilink.com> writes:
>Has anyone had any experience (good or bad) with Targa (Haitai) car cassette
>or cd players?  Looks like the prices are too good to be true.
>
>GW


A few years ago, I bought a Targa cassette head unit (cost was around
$200 or so?) and while the sound was quite satisfactory, I had trouble
with the various controls being rather flimsy.    I ended up bringing
it back and (in a fit of "Oh, my credit card can hold a *little* more...)
getting a Sony CDX-5080 CD instead.     The place where I bought it is
quite reputable and the salesman did have good things to say about
Targa, though (especially for the price).   I'd take a look at current
generation controls and make sure they seem solid.


--Golden
-- 
Golden Richard III             OSU Dept. of Computer and Information Science
grichard@cis.ohio-state.edu                                   (614) 292-0056
From: ebd0@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (EDWARD BAYKAR DERVISHIAN)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Car Radio Installation
Date: 12 Nov 92 00:44:50 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

In article <1992Nov11.170637.5655@mnemosyne.cs.du.edu>, rcrawfor@nyx.cs.du.edu (
Ron Crawford) writes:
>
>
>   A few weeks ago I purchased a new car stereo. Nothing fancy, it's
>just a cheap digital job with a cassette. Basically, I just had to get
>something to replace a factory standard 8-track in my '79 Buick.
>
>   I'm having a helluva time installing it, and I'm not about to pay
>another $75 to have it professionally done. I bought one of those radio
>kits and wireing harness and still no luck. Here are the problems I'm
>having:
>
>  There is a big screw coming out of the back of the radio. Is this
>just for support? The manual doesn't say anything about it.
>
>  With the kit, the radio does not sit flat against the bottom plate.
>Would it be alright to just stick something in there propping it up
>to a level height?
>
>Any advice would be appreciated.
>
>rcrawfor@nyx.cs.du.edu
>
>"Yessir, everything's standard. It'll slide right in any car." Yeah, right.
>
It seems as though that screw sticking out in the back is just to connect the
radio itself to ground. you can get rid of it. If the radio has a black wire
coming out of it for ground, that's all you need. as for stuffing something
underneath to prop it, do whatever you have to. putting something underneath
to prop it is deifinitely one way to solve the problem.

     
-- 
////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
Edward Dervishian - The Eternal Spirit of the Underworld!
PHONE:  1-215-758-1409      * "Either up your nose, or through your
ADDRESS:  Box 0686          *  vein, with nothing to gain except
          Lehigh University *  killing your brain! Freeze!"
          Bethlehem, PA     *
          18015             *
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: jreiser@scott.skidmore.edu (Jason Reiser... Asleep)
Subject: Re: capacitors
Organization: Skidmore College, Saratoga Springs NY
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 23:51:09 GMT

jsc52962@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Jeffrey S. Curtis) writes:
> In article <1doqcvINN8js@bigboote.WPI.EDU> walkerr@bigwpi.WPI.EDU (Robert A Walker) writes:
> }In article <gilchr.721389283@ee.ualberta.ca> gilchr@ee.ualberta.ca (Andrew Gilchrist) writes:
> }>That gives your -3dB points at 100Hz and 200Hz respectively (approx.)
> }
> }	Please excuse my ignorance, but what exactly does -3db mean, what does
> }-12db mean, which one is better, or is it a matter of personal preference,
> }I know what a db is but i though that the more decibles (sp?) the louder it
> }was,  am i lost or what?  
> 
> The -3dB refers to the "cutoff rate" of the crossover.  It's the amount
> of filtering per octave that the crossover performs.  The crossover can't
> actually just block *everything* below a certain point - it just slowly
> cuts it off.  A 3 decibals-per-octave slope is not very effective - it
> means that one octave below your crossover point, the music in that
> frequency range will sound half as loud as at the crossover point itself
> (well, other factors like apparent relative dB @ frequency notwithstanding).

While this is a correct explaination of a crossover's function, I felt
it necessary to point one thing out... That is, that -3db is often
spoken of as the point at which the sound level has dropped in a way
similar to dropping the power output from the amps to 1/2.  I have
never seen a crossover of any type with a slope of -3db.  A first
order (the simplest I know of) has a slope of -6db, and increasing
orders follow... (2nd order -12db, 3rd order -18db, 4th order -24db,
etc.).

Since someone who knows more about this than I will likely read this,
I'll just add a quick question here... that is, when a passive
crossover is said to be at say 100Hz (low pass) at -12db/octave,
then...
	Will the lowest frequency whose sound is produced at full
volume (no attenuation) be 100Hz?

OR
	Will the note at 100Hz be produced with -3db attenuation?

I have seen conflicting reports, but am not sure which is the case...
so, any comments?

 
> Better crossovers - ones that include not just a single capacitor; rather,
> a collection of capacitors and inductors - will give you better slopes,
> sometimes up to -18dB/octave.  I think I might have seen one once that
> offered -24dB/octave, but I might have been dreaming at the time.

I don't know that a steeper slope is necessarily "better", just
steeper and greater attenuation in a narrow span of frequencies.
Other factors generally come into play as far as what is better,
including phase and timing.
-24db/octave is just a fourth order crossover... not common, though
not exotic or rare at all.


				- Jason
-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------
\ Jason A. Reiser  \ Send E-Mail to jreiser@scott.skidmore.edu \
 \ Skidmore College \ Saratoga Springs, NY 12866 \ 518-581-6580 \  
  \ It's a new Ice Age!  Hooray!!  Sled City!  - Calvin & Hobbes \
From: chiu@gpb-mac.sps.mot.com (Norman Chiu)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Polk MM3065 Opinions
Date: 12 Nov 92 17:01:20 GMT
Article-I.D.: 222.chiu-121192105322
Followup-To: rec.audio.car
Distribution: usa
Organization: Motorola Inc.

In article <1992Nov10.165211@usho72.hou281.chevron.com>,
hhtra@usho72.hou281.chevron.com (T.M.Haddock) wrote:
> 
> 
>  I've been looking at the Polk MM3065 component speaker set.
>  The set consists of the the Polk MM6510 6.5" midbass and 
>  the Polk MM3000 1" tweeter and external passive crossover.
>  Fr: 35-26khz, Sens: 90db, Pwr: 100w max
> 
>  They sound pretty good - as good as the Boston Acoustics
>  6.2 Pros.  Any other opinions?

I have the Polk MM3055, with the 5.25" woofers instead of the
6.5" woofers, and the same tweeters.  I love the sound, its
details, and its lack of coloration.  The tweeters are just
unbelieveable, the best sounding tweeters that I've heard.
I recommend them highly.

I also auditioned the Boston Pro 6.5 before I bought the Polk,
and I found the BA's pro tweeters (called the Neo1t, or something
like that) a bit harsh, and way too bright.  The high frequency
content was almost shrieking.  I guess that was because they are
metallic dome tweeters.

Check out the latest copy of Car Audio & Electronics (Dec. 92).
It has a comparsion test of the Polk MM3065, BA Pro 6.5, and a
bunch of other sets of speakers.  On the sound quality of the
tweeters, the Polk came out first place, with BA second.

   /|   /  chiu@gpb-mac.sps.mot.com  | Norman Chiu - Motorola Inc.
  / |  / ___________________________ | "We never gonna survive
 /  | / /  / /__/  /\/\   /_\   /| / |  unless we get a little
/   |/ /__/ /   \ /    \ /   \ / |/  |  crazy"       - Seal
From: genocide@hale.cts.com (Gary Danko)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Targa??
Date: 9 Nov 92 21:02:58 GMT
Organization: Hale Telecommunications Inc.

"Gary A. Woodward" <p00140@psilink.com> writes:

> Has anyone had any experience (good or bad) with Targa (Haitai) car cassette
> or cd players?  Looks like the prices are too good to be true.
> 

targa is a mediocre brand that pushes its product as being something 
comparable to the higher end. ie: "we're not asking them to move over, 
we're telling them" i got this in a recent brochure (i sell car audio for 
a living, small business owner - had to give myself a plug. heh) anyhow, 
the targa line doesnt do too well with my customers.  spend the extra and 
get a pioneer or something. pioneer and blaupunkt makes the best cd 
players (average price range) for your car. sony isnt that great. dont be 
fooled just because it has the sony name.
From: cjs33278@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Carl+Chris Samos)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: 1-Speaker Radio & Car's Frame Serving as an Antenna
Date: 12 Nov 92 15:15:54 GMT
Article-I.D.: news.BxLzqJ.CwG
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana

underdog@leland.Stanford.EDU (Dwight Joe) writes:

>(1) Are there any 1-speaker radios currently on the market?

>Specifically, do they sell radios where the speaker is mounted on the _face_
>of the radio next to the knobs?  Such a radio would preclude the necessity
>of mounting a speaker in the doors or under the dash.

>It might look ugly, but I don't care.  I don't want to have to do any
>more installation work than is absolutely necessary.

Unless your car has a center speaker location already in the dash, it would
probably be easier to install two front speakers.  And the last time I saw
a 1 speaker radio was the one that came in my car ('81 Dodge St. Regis - used
to be a cop car).  And it only had AM radio.


>(2) Also, is the metal frame of the car electrically isolated from
>the battery?  I was thinking of clipping the antenna to the metal frame
>of the body.  I think that the frame will serve as an adequate antenna,
>provded that the metal frame is electrically isolated from the battery.

>Actually, the setup is weird but very simple.  The entire frame 
>will serve as one huge antenna.


NO.  The frame of your car serves as a ground path back to the battery.


-Carl
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: mrubino@csws2.ic.sunysb.edu (Michael N Rubino)
Subject: Re: MacSpeakers program
Organization: State University of New York at Stony Brook
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 16:20:13 GMT

In article <Yf0jWEm00iV1I81wwu@andrew.cmu.edu> Carey Alan Baird <cb4f+@andrew.cmu.edu> writes:

>I recently aquired the program MacSpeakers for my macintosh computer.
[Stuff deleted]

Is this Commercial or PD?  Where can I get it?

Thanks in advance,
- Mike
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: "Gary A. Woodward" <p00140@psilink.com>
Subject: Targa??
Organization: Performance Systems Int'l
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 01:42:40 GMT
X-Mailer: PSILink (3.2)

Has anyone had any experience (good or bad) with Targa (Haitai) car cassette
or cd players?  Looks like the prices are too good to be true.

GW
From: c60b-1hy@web-1g.berkeley.edu (Albert Wu)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Nissan Maxima stock deck
Date: 10 Nov 1992 09:43:39 GMT
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
NNTP-Posting-Host: web-1g.berkeley.edu


A friend of mine just gave me the stock deck that came with his 1990
Nissan Maxima.  When I looked on the back label, it said Clarion.
The model number is PN-9210I.  Does anyone know the specs on this deck?
ie. Freq. response, power (RMS and peak), FM freq. response, wow and
flutter, signal to noise, etc.  It looks pretty nice: full logic controls,
AMS tape search, Dolby, auto reverse, DNR, scan, etc.

Also, if anyone is interested in purchasing this deck, mail me.

Albert Wu
UC Berkeley
c60b-1hy@web.berkeley.edu
From: kmr4@po.CWRU.edu (Keith M. Ryan)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Thanks to all
Date: 13 Nov 92 17:09:00 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University
NNTP-Posting-Host: b64746.student.cwru.edu


	
Well, my mail deamon still seems to be angry at me... Most of my outgoing 
mail is being returned to me, and I don't know if any are getting through. 
I usually like to thank people individually, but it seems that I can not, so:

So, I thank all of you who have helped me with the FAQ. It still has a ways 
to go, but its going. 

Oh, I thank all of you who forwarded the 4th Order post, however I no longer 
need any more copies... anyone want to buy 7 or 8 extra ones? :-)
From: walkerr@bigwpi.WPI.EDU (Robert A Walker)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Crossover point
Date: 6 Nov 92 23:22:01 GMT
Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute
NNTP-Posting-Host: bigwpi.wpi.edu


	I have a question.  I'm putting two 12 inch subs in the rear of 
mY Bronco, each driven by ~60 watts.  And i already have two 2-way 6 x 9
mounted right behind the front seats, about 2 feet from my head.  Now,
what would be a good crossover point to use.  The 6 x 9 will be 
driven by 40 watts a piece.  Any help would be much appreciated, 
would overlapping make it sound really lousy or not, and would it be
a good idea?
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: yystg@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov (STEVE GRAHAM)
Subject: Re: Suitable Capacitor?
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
Date:  6 Nov 1992 13:47 EST  

In article <gilchr.721043941@ee.ualberta.ca>, gilchr@ee.ualberta.ca (Andrew Gilchrist) writes...
>kmr4@po.CWRU.edu (Keith M Ryan) writes:
> 
>>	I thought the topic was external capacitors, e.g. on the 12 volts DC 
>>line. In that case, having an higher frequency impedence would actually help 
>>keep alternator whine and the like out. I can fully understand the need for 
>>such on the internal capacitors for the switching supplies, but for pure DC?
> 
>AAAAAAAAAARRRRGGGGGGGHHHHH!
>YOU PUT THE CAPACITOR ACROSS THE POWER RAILS.  FROM +12V to GROUND.
>Got it?
>If you have a large series inductance with the capacitor, the high
>frequency components will NOT be absorbed by it.
> 
>If you put a cap in series with the 12V line, it will not pass anything
>BUT high prequencies. i.e. NO POWER.
> 
>You people.

At least I'm not the only one that doesn't understand you.

We are talking about DC current.  I for one still do not understand the 
introduction of freqencies that you made.

We know how to hook up a capacitor, both for crossover and power supply 
apps. 

What we (I say we, now that someone else is also having trouble with what 
you are saying) don't understand is the need to filter out different 
frequencies, as you suggest doing.

S. Graham
From: jarvis@niktow.canisius.edu (Daniel Jarvis)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Car Alarm Help!
Keywords: Car Help Alarm
Date: 13 Nov 92 05:35:52 GMT
Organization: Canisius College, Buffalo NY. 14208


	I used only the negative door trigger wire for current sensing
since my hood & trunk both run off of that while installing my K-9 alarm.
The alarm thinks that something is still open when actually everything
is shut tight, therefore it will not work in the active mode.  Anyone
who is familiar with these alarms have any suggestions?  They would
be greatly appreciated...

-------
jarvis@niktow.canisius.edu