HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Good books to learn auto mechanics?
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 1992 13:48:06 -0500

 > >
 > >
 > >What is/are THE authoritative book/s on automobile mechanics.
 >  I would
 > >like to learn both theory and practical instruction.
 > My goal
 > >is to be better than 80% of the auto mechanics.  How do
 > auto mechanics
 > >learn their trade?  (besides hands-on experience).
 > >
 > >Any help would be appreciated.
 > >Thanks.
 > You wanna be an auto mechanic?? I hope your five years
 > old. Because that
 > is the best age to start learning. You have to be raised
 > an auto mechanic.
 > There is no book(s) thacan n teach you mechanics. If you
 > want to be
 > better than 80% of the mechanics out their. You had better
 > be prepared
 > to give up your current lifestyle and become an apprentice
 > at joes corner
 > gastation. Being a mechanic is more tn changing your brakes
 > or installing
 > a rebuilt water pump.
 > --
 > 28940375892743587293475982734985723984 bottles of beer
 > on the wall
 
But honey I read the BEST book in the world on lovemaking, I must 
be better then 80% of the guys out there...and it seys that you will 
like it!!...
 
To be a doctor or a dentist or a lawyer, or a accountant, or a 
programer, or a WHATEVER one first might read, but a supervised period 
of practice ynder an experenced persons oversight is part of all 
those things...sure one could read nolo and do a minor civil action, 
or read the red cross book and dress a wound, or read motors or the 
idiots guide to vw repair and do brakes, but to become a skilled 
person who can sort through various options and pick out the BEST 
 one for the case at hand years of the right kind of supervised practice  
are irreplaceable.  attys watch associats in court, and assist then 
start in traffic court...docs start sticking other med students with 
nedels and other fun impliments...er instruments...mechanics start 
by doing easy jobs like oil changes and brakes and do em again and 
again, learning how to deal with stuck bolts, how to judge which 
tool will do a nicer job, picking up a wholistic sense so they can 
just feel whats wrong a lot of the time...no book will teach ya that!!! 
you can learn how to change brakes and rebuild a engine by buying 
a book and taking your time...you will not be a mechanic though...
From: conser@CS.ColoState.EDU (glenn eldon conser)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Castrol Syntec
Date: 16 Sep 92 02:03:40 GMT
Organization: Catatonic State University

In article <716454024.F00003@blkcat.UUCP> Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory) writes:
>
>Pat Goss said that new Corvettes are being delivered with Mobil-1 oil. Seems
>like the synthetics are getting a big push.

I happened to glance (OK, drool) over a Calloway Corvette at the World Of 
Wheels the last time it was in Denver, and one thing I noticed was the oil
filler cap.  It simply stated that use of anything other than Mobil-1 15W-50
would void the warranty.  Interesting.

Does anyone know if this is from Chevrolet, or did the Calloway people install
it when it passed through their shop?


-- 
See Ya'
-- Glenn
		If money can't buy love, why do all my dates 
			start at the cash machine?
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: CLUB Story
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 4 Sep 92 18:13:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * Jacksonville AR USA * 501-985-0059


-> Joy is a Jaguar XJ-6 with a flat battery,

 What shape *should* it be?
                             
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: srv@philabs.philips.com (Sreeraman Venkitasubrahmanian)
Subject: Nissan Pulsar/Carb. Problem
Organization: Philips Laboratories, Briarcliff Manor, NY.
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 21:25:27 GMT


I have a 1983 Nissan Pulsar NX (1.6 l, 4cyl, Carb. Inj.) with the following
problem. At first the car used to die out on idle (at stop lights etc.). 
It would start back and run fine until the next stop. I did not seriously
bother with it then (about 2 weeks back). 

Few days back it started stalling badly while driving. When I stopped the
car and started again it ran fine. This problem occured a few times again.
When this stalling occured the car moved in jumps as if I had pumped and
released the accelarator in spurts. Yesterday I barely managed to drive
back home from work (2 miles).

Today morning I could not drive the car at all. It would start and immed.
die out. Pressing the accelerator had no effect. I could rev it up by 
pumping the accel continuously.  But as soon as I stopped this, it died 
out. 

I had the car towed to a repair shop. The mechanic says it is a carburettor
problem and replacement would cost $300-$400. He said that he could make it 
run a little better by advancing the ignition timing to the max. 

After this adjustment the car idles fine. I can also rev the engine by
pressing the accel. It also drives fine for a short while after starting.
After that the same stalling comes back. At idle the engine rpm sometimes
seems to lag the accel for a second or so. This lag is very pronounced
while driving and moves the car in jumps.

I'm not so sure that it's a carb. problem since it runs fine for a 
short time after starting. Also advancing the timing seems to have helped
at least on idle.

Now for your advice:

Is this really a carb. problem? If so can I fix it without having to 
replace the whole carb.? 

I would like to fix the car myself. Any suggestion from you folks will
be of help.

...Sreeram
From: plumpe@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Plumpe)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Car radio/cassette problem
Date: 8 Sep 92 12:53:31 GMT
Reply-To: plumpe@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Plumpe)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.autos.tech, leath@atlas.cs.upei.ca (Stephen Leath) writes:
>I have just installed a new radio/cassette into my van. It was working fine
>until I played a cassette (which also played fine) when I popped out the
>cassette the radio volume became weak and the seek and scan can't find any
>stations they just go searching for ever. The cassette still plays fine.
>

Sounds like very little RF.  Check the antenna plug.  If it seems okay
but still no radio, try unplugging the antenna and (carefully) replacing
with a piece of copper wire - touch it to the antenna jack's center
contact without the wire touching the radio chassis.
    Good luck!

DaveP
From: dlou@TROI.UCSD.EDU (Dennis Lou)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: What's a good one??? was Re: CLUB Story
Date: 8 Sep 92 18:11:44 GMT
Reply-To: dlou@ece.ucsd.edu
Organization: University of California, San Diego


In article <jimf.715963838@centerline.com>, jimf@centerline.com (Jim Frost) writes:
|> dlou@WORF.UCSD.EDU (Dennis Lou) writes:
|> >I've heard other companies selling similar stuff.  I think you can buy
|> >a system (Audiovox?) that consists of a GPS (Global Positioning Satellite)
|> >receiver hooked up to a voice synthesizer hooked up to your cellular phone.
|> >Call your car and ask it where it is!
|> 
|> I'm not sure of the name of this system either, but it's far superior
|> to the LoJack system.  It's also two to three times as expensive
|> (circa $1,500).  If the alarm is not disarmed before starting the car
|> you are asked to enter the disarm code.  If you don't do that in some
|> amount of time the alarm calls the alarm company and the alarm company
|> calls back and asks you to identify yourself.  If you do not the alarm
|> company uses the GPS positioning stuff to determine where your car is
|> (down to less than a city block) and notifies the police.  The car can
|> also be disabled remotely to aid in apprehending the thief.  I'm told
|> that in test runs the system was amazingly effective.
|> 
|> This particular system sounds wonderful but I have some problems with
|> it.  First, disconnecting the car phone's antenna disables most of the
|> system (it can't communicate with the base).  This is possible with
|> just a pair of wire-cutters even before entering the car.  Second, it
|> costs about a tenth of the average new car sale price.  If you have a
|> 'Benz it's probably worth it, but it's overkill for most of us.


I've been thinking lately (and I think I may have even mentioned it
in another post) is that such a system could probably be home brewed
which ought to reduce the cost quite a bit...

The components you'd need are a GPS with a serial interface, a modem, 
an automatic voice/data switch, and a cellular phone.

Let's see:
GPS    ???  (I think I saw this at Fry's Electronics for a couple hundred)
modem  $50
Switch $75
phone  $400

When you discover your car is stolen, you call your car with a modem
and download the GPS data.

Also, I wonder if one could hide a cellular phone antenna.  If the cellular
phone antenna could be hidden, one could use a wireless handset and take
it with you much the same way you take along pullout/detachable-faceplate
radios.  This would reduce the chances of the theif breaking in since
he can't steal your cellular phone.  And even if he did, he wouldn't know
to disable your anti-theft system


--
Dennis Lou             || "But Yossarian, what if everyone thought that way?"
dlou@ucsd.edu          || "Then I'd be crazy to think any other way!"
[backbone]!ucsd!dlou   |+====================================================
dlou@ucsd.BITNET       |Steve Jobs and Steve Wozniak went to my high school.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: totty@flute.cs.uiuc.edu (Brian Totty)
Subject: ??? Anyone Work On Triumph Autos ???
Organization: Picasso Group, DCS, University of Illinois, Urbana-Champaign
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1992 19:44:28 GMT

	I have had a Triumph Spitfire 1500 for about six years now.
	I've done a fair amount of work on it over the years, but now I
	am planning to attempt some more serious restoration.

	If you have any interest and/or experience with working on
	Triumphs or British cars in general, I'd love to hear from you.

	I'm sure I will have some questions along the way, and I'd like
	to have a 'support' group that I could ask these questions to,
	and get people's advice.  Likewise, I'll offer any limited wisdom
	I might have.

	So, reply with your email address if you are interested in working
	on Triumphs (or British cars in general).

	Also, is there a British car mailing list anywhere?  If not, perhaps
	we could start one...

						Thanks,


						--- Bri


   /                       Brian Totty             o o
  /__  __  o     Department of Computer Science     o  
 /  / /   /          1304 W. Springfield Ave       \_/  "We have corn in
/__/ /   /               Urbana, IL 61801                Massachusetts too!"
                        totty@cs.uiuc.edu
From: andrew@airs.com (Andrew Evans)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Saab bulletin board
Date: 10 Sep 92 17:47:01 GMT

hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987) writes:

>Write to rsvp@novell.com, and tell him you would like to be on the mailing
>list.

Actually, that's Scott Patterson's personal mail address.  He's the
one who runs the list, but he has a special mail address just for SAAB
network stuff.  It's saab.novellpm@sjfsmtp.novell.com.

-- 
Andrew Evans (andrew@airs.com) - Infinity Development Systems - Waltham, MA
From: nall@sun8.scri.fsu.edu (John Nall)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Good books to learn auto mechanics?
Date: 14 Sep 92 14:22:26 GMT
Reply-To: nall@sun8.scri.fsu.edu (John Nall)
Organization: SCRI, Florida State University


   Don't know about your particular area, but here the local Vocational School
   offers several night courses which are at different levels.  The lowest is
   at the "how (and why) to change oil" level, the highest is geared toward
   getting a job as a mechanic.  

   I started out taking the lowest one, and then took the next one which was
   pretty much at the level of how to do your own tune-ups, pack wheels, rebuild
   carbs (with kits), etc.  Never got beyond that one, but for someone who wants
   to do their own work it was really valuable.  First, because the guy who was
   teaching it was an *expert* mechanic (I knew him, which was why I took the course
   in the first place).  Second, because they provided all the tools, jacks, a
   hydraulic lift, etc.  Third, because the instructor encouraged you to bring your
   own car in and work on it during the class.  He was always available for help,
   but made sure that *you* did the work.

   Also, something that I did with my present car, was to pay a mechanic to run
   through the procedures for adjusting the valves, routine maintenance, etc.
   (This is a diesel, and I wasn't sure whether there might be some differences
   or not).  Although it is a bit costly, I think it is a good investment for
   someone who wants to maintain his/her own vehicle.

   My own view on a book, and nothing but a book, is that there are a lot of little
   things which are taken for granted that you know.  Kind of like not knowing
   anything at all about cooking and trying to make a meal from a cookbook.
   ("Saute the meat, coddle the eggs, add seasoning to taste, boil until it
   thickens, etc." - if you don't even know what *that* means, the cookbook
   doesn't help any :-(   )

John


--
John W. Nall              | Supercomputer Computations Research Institute
nall@mailer.scri.fsu.edu  | Florida State University, Tallahassee, Florida
   "A loaf of bread, a jug of wine, and thou....and perhaps some
	 munchies, couple of pillows, some music.." - Omar Khayyam (modern)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: chenh@neptune.ecs.csus.edu (H. Philip Chen)
Subject: Re: California legal stuff...
Organization: California State University, Sacramento
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 92 10:37:07 GMT

fmlin@terapin.com (Frank M. Lin) writes:
>How does the law work in California?  I mean, can you do whatever you want to
>your car as long as it can pass the smog test?

We can't alter or disable any pollution devices (even if the vehicle 
somehow passes the smog test later).  The catalytic converter has to 
be left alone under there for sure.

No "cutout, bypass or similar device" allowed on the exhaust system. The 
exhaust may be changed, but the replacement must not sound louder than 
80 dBA from 50 feet away.  (somewhere in CVC 27151, 27206, etc.)

There're a number of sections describing the smog/emissions stuff in the 
regular Calif Vehicle Code book; available from the DMV for $3.  

There are some performance items available for vehicles which may or 
may not affect the smog/emissions.  This includes some mechanical/fuel/
electronic parts.  These parts must have the CARB (Calif Air Resources 
Board) exemption/certification for street use.


>  If so, is it possible to buy a
>V-TEC ( Honda Civics ) engine from Japan, and install it?

For off-road/track use, basically anything goes.


>I have a 1992 Infiniti G20.  I beleive the engine is same as the Nissan Sentra
>SEi ( whatever, the highest one... ).  Stock engine is rated at 140hp.  I am
>thinking about getting a new high volume air filer ( K&N or something... ), and
>exhaust ( Borla, ANSA, HKS... which is better? ).  How much performace increase
>can be expected?

Well, first you'll have to check which filters and exhaust systems fit 
your G20 -- not all do.  The shop can tell you the exact gain from the 
manufacturers' notes if those parts are available.  (My guesstimate is... 
about 5% to 7% more hp.  More torque too!)


Best wishes,

-phil 

From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Help solve electrical problem in my car !!!!
Date: Wed, 09 Sep 1992 00:00:03 -0500

 MC>              I have a Nissan 2000SX that wouldn't start due to an 
 MC> electrical
 MC>  failure. All the electrical systems seem to work fine in the 
 MC> beginning.
 MC>  Battery is fine too. As long as the ignition is in 'ON' position 
 MC> everything
 MC>  is fine. But as soon as I turn the key to crank it up everything goes 
 MC> down
 MC>  and comes back after few minutes. 
 MC> 
 MC>  There is no sound of ANYTHING. It just dies.

Check and clean battery terminal connections.
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Poor Man's Supercharger
Date: 11 Sep 92 21:51:31 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL


 Although adding nitrous is easier and cheaper than a turbo, it does 
add stress and may be the difference between 4 pistons and 10,000
chunks if overdone or done to a marginally-designed engine. Anything
that doubles the power output (or whatever) is probably taking you
past the design limits on a lightweight economy car engine (designed
by one engineer, two lawyers and three accountants, none of whom
anticipated you pumping it full of steroids). While nitrous or a turbo
may be added without immediately breaking your engine, you don't know
until you finally get on it. People serious about making power with
either usually go to some lengths to improve what they can. This might
include forged pistons, premium rings and possibly gaskets capable of 
higher cylinder pressures, fresh bearings, better oiling and at the
higher power levels special blocks, forged or billet cranks ( by now
you're talking new engine plus $,$$$). To make the most of nitrous or
a turbo, it also helps to increase the exhaust valve size and improve the
heads - the intake is less important because of the forced induction/
augmented atmosphere but the exhaust is called upon to pass more. 

 Now, it's also true that either a turbo or nitrous can be set up to 
provide a smaller-then-ultimate boost in power. The turbo can be set up
for 3-5lb of boost, giving a 20-35% power increase; you can use the minimum
jetting on the nitrous setup and stay at 50HP increase. The question is,
is that something you can be happy with, trading off -some- engine life
for -some- hop-up, or must you have more (some of us know our answer
already *:{)>  ...).

 One problem with adding nitrous to a small engine is that you may have to
search for a while to find one that doesn't have a universal/Holley or a
Quadrajet 4BBL base. You will probably have to find a specialty house
or have a plate custom-machined. Then you have the problem of getting
the spray bar to fit in the smaller plenum, etc. One of the systems 
that uses single point injection might be easier to rig (if anyone
still does them that way) but they have poorer mixing/metering as I
recall.

 Bottom line: study up first - nothing is free and damn little is as
easy as the ads make it sound. Check the marque groups and the performance
magazines for people who can point you right. You may find some outfit
that has the right setup. Or not.
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
From: jdonsbac@cvbnet.prime.com (Jeff Donsbach)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Unusual Tire wear - "scalloping", Why?
Date: 8 Sep 92 22:10:57 GMT
Organization: Computervision, Bedford MA

In article <183326@pyramid.pyramid.com>, pshyvers@pyrnova.mis.pyramid.com
(Peter Shyvers) writes:
>>In article <SFTPBHCS@cc.swarthmore.edu> stauffer@cc.swarthmore.edu 
>>(Glenn Stauffer) writes:
>> [ what causes rear tire scalloping ?? ]
>
> We were always schooled that it was bad shock(s).

Yup, I had that problem on the set of tires I just replaced and found
that my rear shocks were blown which undoubtedly caused the problem.

-Jeff

-- 
==========================
Jeff Donsbach, Computervision Corp, 14 Crosby Dr., Bedford, MA 
UUCP: {decvax|linus|sun}!cvbnet!jdonsbac | Internet: jdonsbac@cvbnet.prime.com
"10 bucks is 10 bucks" - Geddy Lee
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: globay@emr1.emr.ca (George Lobay)
Subject: Chevette Head Repairs
Organization: Energy, Mines, and Resources, Ottawa
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1992 17:50:23 GMT

The cam on my wife's '86 Chevette is in dire need of replacement.
Assuming that more or less the same amount of money is involved in
each case, which avenue would be the easiest:

1 - Get a used replacement head from the auto wrecker and replace
    the whole head; or

2 - Get a replacement camshaft and replace just it.

I'll do whichever is easier.  Anybody got any practical experience on this?
I forgot to mention I'd do all this myself - always have.

George Lobay
globay@emr1.emr.ca
From: Michel_Denber.WBST147@XEROX.COM
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 85 chev celebrity
Date: 15 Sep 92 14:03:00 GMT


	"the idle will sometimes become eratic"

Congratulations!  You've got the V6 From Hell!  Once again,
rough/unstable/erratic idling in the GM 2.8L MFI engines from 85 through 88 is
due to marginal/defective MAF sensors and a buggy fuel control program.  GM has
an upgrade program on this that involves bagging the MAF sensor entirely so the
engine gets all its data from the MAP sensor instead, and replacing the ECM
PROM.  According to an article in "Motor" last year, most of these systems
developed problems by 50K miles.  A quick test is to give the MAF sensor a
whack with your hand.  If the idle stumbles, you've got it.  The program is
supposed to be "on customer demand" or whenever one of these engines shows up
for service.  When my '88 Celebrity died last month, the dealer fixed the
problem (bad crank sensor) *and also* did the MAF -> MAP mod *without telling
me*.  (They also screwed up my power steering, and left off a few nuts and
bolts, but that's another story).  Oh yes, I assume you've checked other more
obvious causes of rough idle like EGR valve operation, PCV, and IAC.

Your code 42 does *not* mean no tach signal.  If you had no tach signal, the
engine wouldn't run at all.  My book is home, so I can't give you any more
detail at the moment.

			- Michel

denber.wbst147@xerox.com
From: vbreault@rinhp750.gmr.com (Val Breault)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Need help on Installing a Kill Switch
Date: 14 Sep 92 13:14:12 GMT
Organization: General Motors Research Labs
In-reply-to: ae454@cleveland.Freenet.Edu's message of 12 Sep 92 18:13:23 GMT

In article <18tc03INN9f5@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> ae454@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Paul Simundza) writes:

   I need sum help on installing a kill switch in my car, like what do
   I kill, Power to the starter? How many Amps should the switch be able
   to handle? what Gauge wire would suffice? any other little tips I should
   know? thanks in advance!

Try interrupting the power to the starter solenoid.  It's about 10 Amperes.
Twelve gauge wire should to it.  "Hide" the switch in plain view by using
an existing control, the rear window defogger for example.  Add a utility
switch beneath the dashboard to control the defogger.  A thief will
be distracted by the utility switch and not think to use the defogger
switch to start the car.

If you use the accessory switch approach then you'll have to use the
switch to power a 10 Ampere relay.  The accessory switches generally 
do not have a 10 A current rating.

-val-
--

Val Breault - vbreault@gmr.com - N8OEF
General Motors Research and Environmental Staff.
The opinions expressed by the author do not necessarily reflect 
those of the GMRES or the General Motors Corporation.
 

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech