HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier)
Subject: Re: (All) How much fish should beg
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 93 17:40:26 GMT

Larisa Stephan (larisa@tcville.edsg.hac.com) wrote:
: Howdy, all.
: I have two silver mollies in a "five gallon" (really holds more like three
: gallons) hex tank which I set up about a week ago.  Now that they've gotten
: accustomed to the arrangements, they will beg for food every time they see
: a human in front of their tank.
: If I put in a pinch of food, they will eat it all up expeditiously, even if
: I just gave them one an hour before.  I have yet to see flake food go uneaten
: by these two!
: 
: The question: how much should I be feeding them?

The rule people like to quote is to never feed fish more than they
will consume w/in 5 minutes.  I can't imagine putting enough food
in a tank to keep fish busy for five minutes.  When I feed flake food,
I generally put in only so much as the fish will consume in 1/2 - 1
minute, 2x a day.  Yes, fish are no fools and will beg for more, but
at least they don't whine like our cats do.

: I wonder if one or both
: could be pregnant, in which case I don't want to starve her, but I also don't
: want to fatten them overly.  (I don't know how to sex mollies, so I can't
: even say if there's a potential for either to be pregnant.)  Whaddya say?

If they are not fed enough to produce fry, they won't produce
fry.  Don't worry about it.

--
"They thought to use and shame me but I win out by nature, because a true
freak cannot be made.  A true freak must be born." - K. Dunn, _Geek Love_

Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: patton@phy.uab.edu (David Patton)
Subject: Unexplained behavior in convicts
Followup-To: patton@phy.uab.edu
Reply-To: patton@phy.uab.edu
Organization: University of Alabama at Birmingham
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 21:00:04 GMT


I have a 55 gallon tank full of two generations of convicts.
All are of relatively the same size.  I have one male
which was kept in another tank for a period. It is substantially
bigger than the other siblings (two or three times). This male
obviously dominates the tank and could possible have some of the
smaller fish for lunch. 
When the fry were kept with the parents one of their parental
actions was to dig excitedly into the gravel with the young at
their tails. This behavior swirled up many small particles into
the tank so that the young could feed.
I am now noticing the same behavior from the large male in the
55 gal. tank. I thought this was intriguing and would like to
hear any comments on it. The younger fish also seem to follow 
the large male around the tank(or maybe I am imagining this).
Anyway, the male does sometimes run off some of the larger
siblings (male ones) as if he is protecting the smaller ones
and not just asserting his dominance.

David Clay Patton                                  patton@phy.uab.edu
Physics Department
University of Alabama at Birmingham                So much to learn,
Birmingham, Al 35294                               so little time!!!



Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: vchow@diana.cair.du.edu (VICTOR CHOW)
Subject: scratching fish
Organization: University of Denver, Denver, Colorado
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 93 16:34:01 GMT

Hello, i have a T. Morii Kaiser brown with a wide middle yellow stripe in
his body , whatever that is (looks like an african Blockhead) (Can somebody
help me identify?) , that swim in very low water almost close tyo the tank
floor and scratches his mouth in the gravel or rock.



i
My water conditions are normal. My water is clear and there is no visible sign of
algae.

I don't see white spots, so  waht's wrong?

Thanks, Victor

-- 
Victor Chow
Victor.Chow@nike.ColoSpgs.NCR.com vchow@diana.cair.du.edu
NCR Graphics chip design engineer - U. of Denver MBA
Any Brazilians out there?
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: hemstree@lamar.acns.colostate.edu (Charles Hemstreet)
Subject: Re: even more on no water change [now: dependency/neglect]
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1993 17:50:49 GMT
Organization: Colorado State University


As I pondered the thought of how great fish survive in a neglected
tank; looking at my four neglected tanks I asked myself, "Would I
enjoy a smoggy (24 hour a day) environment sucking on the excretions
of my friends?"  Probably not.  I'm pretty hardy and I would survive
for a while but what about my comfort level?  Same for my fish.  They
are mighty hardy, even proliferate in their neglected environment, but
what of their comfort?

Just a thought,

Charles

--
!===========================================================================!
! Charles H. Hemstreet IV       !internet: hemstree@cs.Colostate.Edu        !
! Colorado State University     !       or hemstree@lamar.Colostate.Edu     !
!===========================================================================!
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: dbs@hprnd.rose.hp.com (Dave Sheehy)
Subject: Re: cichlids
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 22:15:47 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Hewlett-Packard
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.3 PL7]

matthew.kaufman (mattk@cbnewsl.cb.att.com) wrote:
: I only have experience with L. leleupi, J. regani, J. transcriptus (talk
: about vicious...) L. brichardi,  ...

I would think that L. brichardi would be a good choice. They are fairly docile
and I would compare them to kribensis in terms of aggressiveness. They are
communal in nature meaning groups of adults and juveniles (not just individual
pairs) will cooperate in defending a mutual nesting site. Their only downside
is that they are not colorful in an overt way. I happen to really like them
even though as a general rule I go for the more colorful gawdy stuff (like
peacocks). Brichardi won't kill everything in the tank when they start
spawning as other Lamps and Julies are apt to do.

: ... all thrive and some reproduce dramatically
: with Instant Ocean at tsp/gallon. Never tried that fancy stuff. Costs
: too damn much for what's essentially in Instant Ocean.

Indeed, I get the same results using  1 T. epsom salt, 1 T.  rock salt, and 
1 t. baking soda per 10 gallons. You don't need the expensive stuff. It is
IMHO a ripoff.

Dave Sheehy
From: Dmerrill@bnr.ca (Dana Merrill)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Black gravel / gravel sources
Date: 21 Jan 93 16:13:09 GMT
Followup-To: rec.aquaria
Organization: BNR


(My aplolgies if this is a duplicate post, but I got an error on the first
try indicating that it did not get out).

A while back there was some discussion on gravel sources. Of particular
interest to me was the source for black gravel.  Well, I am finally getting
around to setting up my 90 gal that has been gathering dust waiting for a
stand, and called the manufacturer that was given for the "black gravel". 
They told me that the closest distributor to me is in Tennessee (I'm in
central NC) but to just call around and ask for "coal slag" since that is
what their product is. 

Now "coal slag" doesn't sound like something that I want to put in my tank!
 As far as I can tell from Websters, "slag" sounds like either the trash
from some melting operation or maybe some kind of lava (the latter of which
might be OK?).

Does anyone know exactly what this stuff is and if it will be suitable in
the tank (fresh water).  And along the same line, unless someone can
convince me otherwise I guess I will pursue the standard sandblasting sand
route.  As I recall the net.wisdom calls for #3 sand.  Anything else I
should know or is sandblasting sand all the same (surely not)?  I do not
plan on any type of undergravel filter and hope to grow LOTS of plants.

Thanks in advance
dam 


PS

Say, how about a FAQ on inexpensive supply sources?  Gravel, wide spectrum
lighting, ballasts, rocks, driftwood, DIY filters, stands, skimmers, etc.;
the kinds of things the fish stores (including mail order) rob you for!



==================================================================

Dana Merrill                                Bell Northern Research
DMerrill@BNR.CA                         Research Triangle Park, NC
==================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria,sci.aquaria
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria



Patti,

I was doing an emergency water change in my aquarium.  I didn't have the 
luxury of waiting even overnight for the mixture to stabilize.  I know it is
best to let the water sit areated for a day before using it.  With the Instant
Ocean and less so the Hawaiin Marinemix even a day with areation didn't 
totally disolve the mix.  By the way, I use either DeepRock Distilled water,
or RO water to mix the salt in.  DeepRock at least claims they don't use
copper pipes.

Sylvia
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: schwarz@esrican.uucp (Brian Schwarz)
Subject: Thanks (was Mantis Blues)
Reply-To: bschwarz@esri.com
Organization: ESRI Canada
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 23:09:21 GMT

Thanks to all who responded to my distress signal over
my mantis woes... (ie. Jon, Anthony, Dave, Spass, et. al).

Believe it or not the mantis turned out to be a pistol
shrimp.  Apparently these are harmless.  It sounded like a 
mantis and I spent a lot of time trying to see him with no luck. 

Also, I asked for advice from a different store and I am
now convinced that the small crustaceans I noticed are
not baby mantis shrimps (or pistol shrimps for that matter).

I've decided not to purchase anything such as a Mandarin
Goby to munch on these small guys.  I get the impression
that they are good for the tank. 

With all of the crustacean talk, however, I did end up
buying a coral banded shrimp.  

Thanks again for all the advice.

Next time I'll know what a pistol shrimp looks like.

Brian
-- 
_|_| Environmental Systems Research Institute, CANADA     
_|_|                                
        bschwarz@esri.com
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: mattk@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (matthew.kaufman)
Subject: Re: cichlids
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 14:42:47 GMT

In article <1993Jan20.201608.26629@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu> tes0@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (THOMAS EDWIN SCHMIDLIN) writes:
>In article <1993Jan17.043422.23004@bnr.ca>, justin@bnr.ca (Justin Wintour) write
>s:
>>Hi all!
>>which kinds to start with. I do not want vicious ones which will
>>kill each other, but rather colorful and interesting types which might
>>be able to share the tank with some angels and cory cats. I'd settle for
>
>As a rule, most SA Cichlids are vicious.  If you want to keep some angels in
>the same tank (I should point out that angels are also cichlids), it is
>important that the angels be much largere than the other cichlids.  It has
>been my experience that, unless there is a lot of room for them to move around
>(ie. not too many fish) the angels get beaten up pretty badly.

I'm not sure I agree with that rule. Vicious has a severely negative
connotation that  doesn't apply to all New World cichlids - many Apistogrammas
and other dwarf cichlids like "Rams" are not 'vicious.' Ditto angels, discus,
lots of the smaller cichlids like Festivum. Now, you're more likely, with
an arbitrary Central American cichlid like, say Meeki or a pike cichlid,
they're more apt to be 'tank thugs.' Further, a lot of the good sized
SA cichlids ('Geophagus' Brasiliensis comes to mind) are actually fairly
docile.
>
>If you decide to get South American Cichlids, regular aquarium salt works
>fine.  I've never had any problems with it.  For African Cichlids, you should
>use the more expensive salts designed specifically for them.  Depending on how
>much money you have to spend, I would suggest African Cichlids.  They are more
>expensive, but they are very colorful fish and come in many varieties.  You
>could set up a really nice tank full of great looking Africans.  I've been
>wanting to do just that, but I'm a poor college student and don't have the
>$3-$5 each to spend on the cheaper African Cichlids.:-(
>
I only have experience with L. leleupi, J. regani, J. transcriptus (talk
about vicious...) L. brichardi, all thrive and some reproduce dramatically
with Instant Ocean at tsp/gallon. Never tried that fancy stuff. Costs
too damn much for what's essentially in Instant Ocean.
-- 
"I am the chosen one."  | Copyright 1992 mattk@usl.com. Permission for
                        | reproduction in printed media or by pay-for-read
"And I Choose to be     | services explicitly disallowed. Permission granted to
shopping!"              | USENET and like free facilities.
From: paulc@tsien.Eng.Sun.COM (Paul Tsien)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: * REDUCED!! 55gl Aquarium w/stand & cannope *
Date: 21 Jan 1993 19:25:25 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Distribution: world
Reply-To: paulc@tsien.Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: tsien

FOR SALE!!  PRICE REDUCED!!
55 gl. Aquarium wet/dry system w/stand & cannope + misc.!

Only one year old!
For salt water or fresh water setup!
Adds life and colors to any room/office!  

55 gl. TRUVU Plexi Aquarium (4'x20"x13") + wet/dry filter + stand & cannope
* Black background with corner pre-filter
* Light and fixture
* TRUVU Wet/Dry filter system with submersible Eheim 1250 pump  
* Beautiful black Oak integrated (wet/dry filter enclosed) 
  stand and cannope        	                              $599

Magnum 350 canister filter (350 gl./hour)		      $ 49
Aquanetics 15IL UV sterilizer (480 gl./hour)                  $ 69
Sander venturi protein skimmer 
  with AquaClear 802 powerhead (400 gl./hour)                 $ 89
Submersible heater, air pump and other misc. items            $ 29

Paid over $2,000 new.  
For complete setup asking $699 or best offer!

Call Paul at 415 336-0815 work
             415 325-8566 home (Palo Alto, CA)
From: scol@scottsdale.az.stratus.com (Scott Colbath)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: What kind of  tank sealer?
Date: 25 Jan 1993 14:49:36 GMT
Organization: Stratus Computer Inc, Marlboro MA
NNTP-Posting-Host: scottsdale.az.stratus.com

Hi all,

	I am getting ready to seal the office tank and I was wondering if  
anyone out there has suggestions on what kind of silicone to use on it. Are  
there any brands specifically for aquariums? 
--
**********************************************************
Scott Colbath
Stratus Computer
Phoenix, Az.  (602)852-3106
Internet:scott_colbath@az.stratus.com
**********************************************************
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:10350 alt.aquaria:6730
From: kwilson@cds002.hac.com (kevin wilson)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: Fish in the Workplace
Date: 22 Jan 93 22:30:58 GMT
Organization: Hughes Aircraft Company


really, more to follow in a minute!
From: chapman@uiatma.atmos.uiuc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Lighting: MH, wonderlight
Date: 26 Jan 93 20:11:13 GMT
Organization: University of Illinois, Urbana-Champaign

I am in the process of setting up a 70 gal. plant tank.  The time
has come to choose the lighting system and as of now I am favoring
pendant style metal halides.  I would like to know the best prices
and locations found for 175W fixtures and bulbs.  I will summarize
the results.

Also, at one time there was mention of these 'wonderlight' bulbs
that fit into ordinary incandescent fixtures.  I believe the 
preliminary results on these was somewhat positive.  Can anyone with
experience with the 'wonderlights' provide an update?  Do these
bulbs give the same effect as MH as far as shadowing, etc. from
a 'point source'?  Thanks.
From: marthab@carson.u.washington.edu (Martha Burns)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Fish with Personality
Date: 27 Jan 1993 01:43:56 GMT
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: carson.u.washington.edu

I need to restock my 39 gal. freshwater tank.  Lost all but two Tetras due 
to a recent 5-day power outtage when the tank's water temperature dropped to
43 degrees.  Have kept mostly Gouramis in the past, but would like to
get some fish with more personality.  Any suggestions?  
Would Jack Dempseys be a good choice?

(E-mail responses would be preferred)

-- 




Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: COKelly@massey.ac.nz (C.J. O'Kelly)
Subject: Re: [F] Straw as Algacide
Summary: No magic algicidal bullets in straw
Keywords: algae, straw, algicide
Organization: Massey University, Palmerston North, New Zealand
X-Reader: NETNEWS/PC Version 2c
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 93 00:10:09 GMT


Throwing straw into water, as far as I know, works as an algicide
principally by increasing the organic compounds present in the water.
These compounds foster the growth of bacteria and fungi, and decrease
the transparency of the water.  I reckon that it is the loss of light,
and the competition for space and nutrients with the blooms of fungi and
bacteria, that account for the algal dieoffs reported, not some specific
"magic bullet" being released from the straw.

The fish "not being harmed" by this procedure are probably carp, perch
and the like.  The bulletproof ones.  I wouldn't try it with my
Amazonian rarities.

Charley O'Kelly
Mad Phycologist/Protistologist
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:10329 alt.aquaria:6713
From: vseaman@access.digex.com (Vanya Seaman)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: [F]:  Power Filters
Date: 23 Jan 1993 00:42:08 GMT
Organization: Express Access Online Communications, Greenbelt, MD USA
NNTP-Posting-Host: access.digex.com

	[asking about the aquaclear 300 and the penguin 300 w/bio]

>Does anyone have a preference as to which one is better? What
>kind of noise levels can I expect from either of them?  And any
>other pertinent info would be helpful.

	I work at a fish store without a central wet/dry system, so
we use a combination of canisters and power filters- Whispers,
AquaClears, and Penguins.
	At home I have several tanks, and guess what? That's right
many many many filters. I have a biolife, a eheim, a whisper, a
penguin, and a aquaclear. (I don't want to think about the sizes
right now :)

	Out of all this experience, I choose the Eheim. OK OK OK, I 
know it wasn't a choice, but amoung power filters, the AquaClear
is the best, though I have had VERY good experiences biologically
with the Penguin. 
	I had a 20 tank with a Penguin 160 biowheel driving it, and
I added two swordtails for a few days and then stocked it with
African Clawed Frogs, I've yet to have an ammonia or nitrite spike
of ANY kind at all. Ammonia and Nitrite levels have been 0 ever
since day one, and the tank's been running for the last 5 months.
	Problem- The penguin doesn't keep the tank as CLEAN
as the AquaClear.
From: rick@billnext.tamu.edu (Rick Huff)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Building aquariums
Date: 26 Jan 93 21:02:11 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Texas A&M University, College Station, TX
NNTP-Posting-Host: billnext.tamu.edu

..Stuff deleted...

> The basic assembly order was:
> 
> Build the wooden box
> Paint it
> Seal it

..Stuff deleted...

This looks like a great idea.

I am thinking of building or purchasing a 1.5D x 2.0H x 3.5W aquarium to house  
African Cichlids.  Does anybody know what thickness glass to use?  Would 3/8"  
be too thin.  1/2" glass is $112!  Maybe I am too cheap, but this seems like a  
lot of money for just one side of a homebuilt tank. 
--
Rick Huff, Systems Analyst (409) 845-8454 (rick@billnext.tamu.edu)
CSC, Computing Account Services, Texas A&M University
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: asmadsen@phoenix.Princeton.EDU (Aaron Stanley Madsen)
Subject: [F] Discus Question 
Summary: Growth rate 
Originator: news@nimaster
Organization: Princeton University
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1993 04:35:56 GMT

I have a question for those of you out there who 
fancy discus.  I have a single German Turquoise 
speciman (or so I was told when I purchased it -
if it matters for my question, the pictures on 
page 167 of TFH, November 1992 look almost
identical to mine...).

I'm curious as to how long it takes for one of
these guys to achieve full size.  When I got 
"Moses" about 3 months ago, he was maybe 3 inches,
and now he's coming up on 4.  All of my references
list 6 to 7 inches as full grown, which should be
fine for my 20 gallon tank - I'm just curious
when, as I have a few other fish in there now
and it's going to get too crowded for my taste. 
(I need an excuse to get a bigger tank, anyway.)

Also out of curiousity, has anyone gotten their
discus to eat TetraBits?  Maybe I'm too generous
with the frozen food...

Thanks!

Aaron S. Madsen - asmadsen@phoenix.princeton.edu
From: laurence@cco.caltech.edu (Dustin Lee Laurence)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [M] Need suggestions on cowfish, rock anemonies, etc.
Date: 21 Jan 1993 21:02:10 GMT
Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena
NNTP-Posting-Host: sandman.caltech.edu

brian@picasso.icd.teradyne.com (Brian Hunter) writes:

>In article <1j7jtqINNbte@gap.caltech.edu> laurence@cco.caltech.edu (Dustin Lee Laurence) writes:

[using sodium hydroxide to kill Aptasia]

>What concentration did you use?

It's probably written down somewhere, but I don't have it here.  However,
I believe my solution to be stronger than is optimal.  Since calcium
hydroxide almost works, I suspect that the way to determine a good
concentration would be to mix up a solution of sodium hydroxide with a
hydroxyl concentration that is a bit higher than that of saturated calcium
hydroxide, and then slowly increase the concentration until you get
reliable kills.  It might not take that much more.  I don't know for sure
if similar hydroxyl concentrations have similar lethality, but this seems
like a reasonable ballpark estimate.  You could also match pH's instead,
which would probably give you a similar initial concentration.

I ought to do this experiment, but I don't have many Aptasia left.  I
guess I could leave them alone for a while until I have enough "volunteer"
test polyps.

Again, don't go doing this without knowing what you are doing.


-- 
Dustin Laurence       "As sensitive and broad-minded humans, we must never
                       allow ourselves to be in any way judgmental of the
laurence@alice         religious practices of other people, even when these
caltech.edu           people clearly are raving space loons." -- Dave Barry
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:10452 alt.aquaria:6810
From: jwjohn@ecst.csuchico.edu (Jerry W. Johnson)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: [M] Live Rock Dealers?/Advice
Date: 27 Jan 93 07:34:11 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: California State University, Chico
NNTP-Posting-Host: pathogen.ecst.csuchico.edu

Hi All,
 I'm going to set up a mini-reef in an 18 G, glass tank. 
The reef will feature 2 Percula's and 1 or 2 anemone's
(depending on the size available from my dealer at D-day).
Lighting & filtration are sufficient, but I need help
with the live rock.  I failed to note the names of distributors
recently mentioned. Would some please mail/post the names of 
companies whose rock they were pleased with, including
price for 30 lbs.
 Is 30 lbs too much? This tank is like a std ten gallon, but
twice as tall. I don't intend to add any corals, but will
encourage what is embedded on arrival. 
 How much should I be willing to pay? If they state it's cured,
can this be trusted? Any opinions, insights, advice appreciated.
-- Jerry

PS. what is egg crate for? I'll have no UGF, just a little (.5 inch)
crushed coral to dust the bottom.



-- 
||=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-||-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=||
||  Jerry W. Johnson                ||  Struggling CSCI Grad Student  || 
||  jwjohn@cscihp.ecst.csuchico.edu ||   (Is There Any Other Kind?)   || 
||=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-||-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=||
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria