HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jward@hydra.acs.uci.edu (John Ward)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [M] Caulerpa Problems
Date: 9 Nov 92 21:03:41 GMT
Organization: University of California, Irvine

In article <2800239@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM> sylvia@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (Sylvia Budak) writes:
>Which iron supplement and how much do you use John?  I used to have Caulerpa
>and it all died.  It's symptoms were the same as described in this base note.
>I tried an iron supplement but was probably too timid with it.  I was afraid
>it would cause problems for the other inhabitants in the tank, especially
>invertebrates.  I now have one candy shrimp, one strawberry crab, a percula
>clown, and three blue tangs.  I would like to have some macro algae in the 
>tank.  Unfortunately I think the Tangs would do major damage to them.  If,
>however I get enough algae it might be able to keep ahead of the fish.  Does
>this sound stupid?  If so, I'll forget about it.

I currently use Coralife's iron supplement.  When it runs out I'm going
to try Wimex made by Hawaiian Marine.  I have been adding the iron and
trace elements based on how the algae looked and its growth rate.
Testing the water for iron with a new LaMotte test kit showed the iron
is below the kits lowest resolution (0.02 mg/l I think).  I'm going to
try to bring the iron level up.

--
John Ward    UC Irvine email: jward@uci.edu or jward@uci.bitnet
     "Time flies like an eagle.  Fruit flies like a banana."
From: holyholy@netlink.cts.com (Jeffrey Tang)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Guppies
Date: 10 Nov 92 23:28:37 GMT
Organization: NetLink Online Communications, San Diego CA

Yup, i dont like breeding traps either, because when i had a female guppy 
in one, she gave birth and the fry did not sink to the bottom; 
consequently, she munched them.  oh well..

--                    
INTERNET:  holyholy@netlink.cts.com (Jeffrey Tang)
UUCP:   ...!ryptyde!netlink!holyholy
NetLink Online Communications * Public Access in San Diego, CA (619) 453-1115
From: hbishop@ttsi.lonestar.org (Huett Bishop)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Oceanic tanks?  ID, please..
Date: 5 Nov 92 17:40:37 GMT
Organization: Tandem Telecommunications Systems Inc.

In article <1992Nov4.132022.11470@bsu-ucs> 01mbmccabe@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu writes:
>
>The most distinctive difference about this 30gal tank is the lip where a hood
>would usually sit...it's so small a ledge that it's practially not
>there....maybe 1/16" to 1/8"(tops!)...any idea about the ledge on Oceanic
>tanks?
>
>Also, what about Oceanic hoods?  Do you know how they fit?  Do they sit on top
>or down in the ledge?
>
>				-Matt

I have an Oceanic 30 Long. The glass is definitely thicker. Also it has a sizable lip around the
top for the hood to set on (in?) 

                        ---    <-----  Top
                          |       <----Glass Side
                          +-        <--- Ledge

Also the Oceanic has a "low iron glass" top which allows more light to pass through,
or so Oceanic says.  

I like the quality of the Oceanic tank and hoods. They seemed like they used better material
and workmanship on their tanks and stands.

+--------------------------------------+
|Huett Bishop                          |
| Tandem Telecommuncations Systems Inc.|
|Dallas, TX                            |
|                                      |
|Go Cowboys!!                          |
|                                      |
|email: hbishop@ttsi.lonestar.org      |
+--------------------------------------+
From: mwerling@woodstock.umd.edu (Michael T. Werling)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: (M) Live rock dealers
Summary: List wanted of live rock dealers
Keywords: live rock
Date: 5 Nov 92 17:55:37 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Maryland, College Park

Since I have not yet subscribed to any fish mags, I don't have that much
access to mail order companies.  However, I would like to order some live
rock for my new marine tank.  So...

If it is not too much trouble, e-mail (preferred to posting) your favorite
live rock dealer to me. If there is interest, I will coallate the list and
post it.

Include in your mail the name of the company, address and/or phone,
approximate price (if you know it) and any other info you have.

Thanks in advance.

Mike  (mwerling@linus.umd.edu)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: sdebol@htlv.med.umn.edu (Steven Debol (Nelson))
Subject: (M) Liquid Gold--Theil
Organization: University of Minnesota
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1992 00:08:17 GMT

A friend of mine doesn't have access to the network and wanted
me to post a question.  

He added a product called Liquid Gold from Theil to his reef
tank.  The tank has been set up for over a year and a half.
Shortly after added the Liquid Gold he said large amounts of
hair algae have been growing.  He said his nitrates and
phosphates are essentially zero.

He said Theil does not list the ingredients of this product
and wondered if anyone out there knows what it contains that
would cause this algae to grow.

----------------------------------------------------------------

Steve Debol                  
Department of Microbiology       "Other than that, Mrs. Lincoln,
University of Minnesota           how did you enjoy the play?"
sdebol@lenti.med.umn.edu

----------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: nagel@ucsu.Colorado.EDU (Kurt Nagel)
Subject: Re: Feeding Fish When On Vacation
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 05:10:21 GMT

stu@mbsdev24.shearson.com ( Stuart Bernstein ) writes:

>  I plan on taking a vacation for 9 days soon.  I was
>  wondering what would be the best method for feeding
>  my fish (2 Dwarf Gourmis, 6 Cardinal Tetras, 2 Rasb. Barbs, 3 Zebra Danios)

>  The tank is a 55 gallon with Canister filtration (Eheim) (No UGF)

>  Am I better off with the cheap vacation feeders the stores sell OR
>  invest in a fish feeder.

>  I do not take many vacations, but I am worried about the vacation feeders
>  they sell in the store which gradually disolve.


>						Thank you

	There is an excellant article in this months Freshwater and Marine
Aquarium magazine concerning vacations.  Basically, fish are very hardy and
can survive just fine WITHOUT food for a few weeks.  Actually the article 
indicates that there is a large amount of available food in a well established
aquarium anyway.  DO NOT attempt to feed extra before leaving (Fish don't know 
you will be leaving and you will just be adding excess biological load).  Be 
sure to clean the tank and do a water change before leaving and check and 
service all of your equipment (new diaphragms on your pumps etc.)  If you have 
a friend that can check on your aquarium, fill him/her in on what to do if a 
fish dies, a pump/heater fails. However, don't depend on them to feed.  

	If you have prepared well enough ahead of time, your fish will be fine.
For more info check out the article "If Only I had known" Pg. 29 of the 
November 1992 issue of Freshwater and Marine Aquarium magazine.  This magazine
is usually available at local grocery stores and is cheap ($2.50), plus it has
some great mail order advertisments.

Kurt
nagel@fido.colorado.edu
 
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier)
Subject: Re: Guppies
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 92 23:55:35 GMT

idbremne (idbremne@thunder.LakeheadU.Ca) wrote:
: I am interrested in collecting recipies for making guppies
: 
: BREED LIKE THERE IS NO TOMORROW!!!!!!!

That's easy - feed them good food, and make sure there are
places for the fish to hide.  The A1-best food that I have
encountered for making fish breed is <African> red worms.
They are smaller cousins of the more familiar earthworms.
You'd have to break them up for guppies, but a big breeding
female should be able to handle 1/4 worm.  I would guess
that mosquito larvae would also make your guppies sing.

Oh, and keep the water clean.  They like that.  Also, you
can try newly hatched brine shimp.  Both adults and fry
would dig that.

--
"They thought to use and shame me but I win out by nature, because a true
freak cannot be made.  A true freak must be born." - Geek Love

Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier
From: marat@ccu.umanitoba.ca
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: (M)[M]{M} - Please identify this critter
Date: 6 Nov 92 18:57:04 GMT
Article-I.D.: ccu.BxB5z4.EJu
Organization: University of Manitoba, Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Originator: marat@ccu.umanitoba.ca

While feeding my 50 gal semi-reef tank something quickly darted out of
a hole in one of the rocks and grabbed a piece of food.  It did this
several times.  The creature was translucent greyish with a segmented worm 
like body about 2-3 cm long and 5-6 mm across.  There may have been more
body in the rock, though.  The head and mouth parts, from what I could see,
looked much more like a crustacean than any worm though.  Does anyone have
any idea what this thing might be? and whether it is dangerous to the other
inhabitants in the tank.

I also have a large Condylactus sp. anemone which has crawled up next to
a feather-duster worm.  The tentacles of the anemone are touching the 
"feathers" of the worm, but so-far no damage seems to have been done.
Is the anemone likely to hurt the feather-duster?
Thanks in advance.
Kirk Marat
Dept of Chemistry, University of Manitoba, R3T2N2, CANADA
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: mark stephens <stephens@kong.gsfc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Re: de-nitrator
X-Xxmessage-Id: <A71E8B505101EC3D@mstephens.gsfc.nasa.gov>
X-Xxdate: Thu, 5 Nov 92 08:26:56 GMT
Organization: NASA/GSFC
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d12
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 92 13:25:37 GMT

Sounds like a lot of bucks for the bang.  But what I really question is
the notion that getting rid of nitrates will mean that you don't have to
change water.  Nitrates are something we can measure and worry about. 
There are probably other substances, similar in toxicity, which we can't
measure (only your chemise knows for sure) and only a water change can
get rid of.

I don't have marine tanks, but my FW plant tank needs water changes to
keep the plants happy, even though nitrates are a big zero.   So, all
right, I'm not adding something which is in my tap water, but I don't
know what it is!  (This is a Dupla fertilized tank, and if they don't
know how am I!).

     mark
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: rclark@alcor.concordia.ca (Richard Clark)
Subject: Re: (F) Fruit Fly medium
Keywords: mail order, fruit fly
Organization: Concordia University, Montreal, Quebec
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 04:38:59 GMT


>Does anybody has the Carolina Biological Supply Co. phone number/address 
>handy? I need to mail order a bag of fruit fly medium from them.

My bag of stuff says 

Burlington, North Carolina, 27215

Gladstone Oregon 97027

You could call directory assistance to get the phone numbers.

rick


-- 
rick clark (rclark@alcor.concordia.ca) | Ban Handguns.
           (CIS 70272,3270)            |
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: livings@unislc.uucp (Ross Livingston)
Subject: Re: THE NITRITES ARE DROPPING! THE NITRITES ARE DROPPING!!!!!
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Reply-To: livings%unislc@uunet.uu.net
Organization: Unisys Corporation SLC
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 14:33:44 GMT

Ross Livingston (livings@unislc.uucp) wrote:

: I'll be testing again this weekend but am curious to know if it is at
: all typical to not see Nitrates.  I did use some cycling agent (Amquel?)
Oops, I used Bacter Plus (Aquatronics), not Amquel.  I also used NovAqua.

: when I first filled the tank, and once since during a partial water change.
: Could this account for never seeing nitrates, or are they on their way?

-- 
Ross Livingston, Unisys Corp.  |  Phone   (801) 594-6217
livings%unislc.uunet.uu.net    |  Fax     801-594-4861 / 801-594-6708
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: livings@unislc.uucp (Ross Livingston)
Subject: Re: Avoiding loss of siphon in U tubes
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Organization: Unisys Corporation SLC
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 02:48:52 GMT

Howard Rebel (howardr@col.hp.com) wrote:
: In article <lft1ouINNap0@news.bbn.com> rbrown@bbn.com writes:
: >A while ago someone asked about getting rid of air bubbles in U tubes -
: >his was from his house to his garage! I have a similar problem although
: >in a much smaller tube (tank to prefilter box).
...
: Ralph is correct but the problem can be prevented by increasing the
: current (flow rate) in the U tube.  If the current is fast enough
: the small air bubbles wiil be swept along with the current and will
: not collect to form an air pocket that will break the siphon.
: 
: You can increase the current in the U tube by using a smaller U tube,
: or pumping more water.  
: 
: You can pump more water by using a larger pump, adding a second pump,
: or by reducing the head your pump works against.

Just one more note.  I have a pump which is plenty large for my tank, and
at first, was only using about half of it's flow.  I was getting air bubble
problems too.  I tried increasing the flow, but the siphons (yes, 2 1"
siphons) couldn't handle the additional flow.  After a little thinking, I
realized that I had a design flaw in my prefilter (DIY).  I promptly removed
it, got out the hacksaw, and fixed it.  If you made your own, you may need to
do something similar.  I had to lower the divider which keeps the water
level high enough to stop the siphon from breaking.  It is still high enough
to do it's job, but now has a more appreciable difference in height relative
to the tank's water level.  The lower this barrier is relative to the tank's
level, the more 'suction' that end of the siphon will create.  Just make sure
that it's (the barrier, that is) always higher than the lowest level that will
be maintained in the skimmer cup.

-- 
Ross Livingston, Unisys Corp.  |  Phone   (801) 594-6217
livings%unislc.uunet.uu.net    |  Fax     801-594-4861 / 801-594-6708
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: rclark@alcor.concordia.ca (Richard Clark)
Subject: (F) Killer Lemon Tetra?
Summary: isn't this kind of aggression very unusual?
Keywords: tetra, Hy. pulchripinnis, fresh
Organization: Concordia University, Montreal, Quebec
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 01:40:07 GMT

I bought 6 adult lemon tetras (Hy. pulchripinnis) two days ago.  I
followed my normal procedure for new fish (I only raise tetras), I put
them in a 20 liter tank, temperature at 25-26C (as per Baensch),
conditioned sponge filter.  The tank is bare except for the sponge
filter and heater, and contains no other fish/plants.

I immediately noticed an agression problem, one of the largest fish
seemed to peck at the others.  It wasn't the same kind of chasing I
had seen with cardinal or neon tetras, this looked like the fish was
trying to do serious damage to the others.

I placed a large piece of slate into the tank which roughly divided it
into two parts, although it by no means made going from one part to
the other difficult. There was about a 1 cm gap on one side, and the
slate was only 12 cm high. I felt it should be adequate because it
enabled fish of this size to hide easily.

This morning I found a dead fish in the tank, it had been
disembowelled.  Ordinarily I would think that it was just one of those
new fish losses, but having seen the harassment problems, I suspect it
was killed.

I read up on these fish before I bought them, read some reports here, all
said it is a peaceful fish.  Has anyone experienced this before?
Maybe I just have one crazy fish?

I've tried to catch the one fish, but if anyone has ever tried to net
1 of a school of fish - all of which look virtually identical, you'll
know the trouble I've been having.  I can't pick that fish out unless
I see it trying to bite one of the others.  The minute I go close with
a net, they school - and I'm screwed.

If aggression is a common problem with these fish, I'm going to get
rid of them.  If I wanted this kind of problem, I would have stuck
with cichlids ...  Otherwise I'll either wait it out (if it is a
stress-related problem), or get rid of the one fish.

thanks

rick clark

-- 
rick clark (rclark@alcor.concordia.ca) | Ban Handguns.
           (CIS 70272,3270)            |
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: ffujita@s.psych.uiuc.edu (Frank Fujita)
Subject: Chelated Iron
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Distribution: rec
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1992 00:20:26 GMT

I was wondering if anybody sells chelated iron other than Dupla.  I've
seen lots of chelated iron in regular fertilizers, (along with
phosphates, chelated coppe, ammonia and other nasties).  Surely
there must be a source of (cheap, large quantity) chelated iron.
Frank Fujita 
 
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: Igor Livshits <igorl@uiuc.edu>
Subject: Ugh!
X-Xxmessage-Id: <A7243B03850114C6@spiff.ncsa.uiuc.edu>
X-Xxdate: Mon, 9 Nov 92 21:57:55 GMT
Organization: NCSA
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d12
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 04:12:43 GMT

I just spent a weekend in Chicago and visited a suburban aquarium shop (I
have a reef set-up at home).  I was dismayed to find poorly lit and
overpopulated tanks.  The anemonies all looked sad and were
deteriorating.  There were a few hard corals, but none of these were
expanded.  About the only inverts that were thriving were the shrimp.

The store's idea of low nitrates was "under 40."  Is there an
organization that regulates the invertebrate trade?  Will the Humane
Society intervene?  Or is this within "normal" store bounds?

Thanks, igor
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: patton@phy.uab.edu (David Patton)
Subject: Re: (F) prolific Kribensis's .. need advice
Followup-To: patton@phy.uab.edu
Reply-To: patton@phy.uab.edu
Organization: University of Alabama at Birmingham
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 21:57:38 GMT


Doesn't it seem like these lucky individuals always live on the other end
of the world?  I'd love to take ~6 or so kribs of his hands,but I don't
think I can get to Col.



Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: dave@borland.com (Dave Draper)
Subject: PCCA Monthly Meeting
Originator: dave@genghis.borland.com
Organization: Borland International
Distribution: ca
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 21:50:55 GMT

PACIFIC COAST CICHLID ASSOCIATION MONTHY MEETING
================================================

Saturday, Novemember 14, 1992 at 7:00PM
Social Hour from 6:00 - 7:00PM

PROGRAM: Karl Eric Johnson on _Fish Rooms of Europe_

If coarse the usual auction and raffle will take place.
Raffle items includ a 55 & 20 gallon tank plus numerous other
goodies. The Auction always includes a wide assortment of your
favorite Cichlids plus the occassional catfish or amphibian.

Meeting starts promptly at 7:00PM at the Round Table Pizza on
the corner of Moorpark and Saratoga in San Jose, CA.

Form more information write to:

Pacific Coast Cichlid Association
P.O. Box 28145
San Jose, CA  95218

or send me some email.

- Dave Draper
  Pacific Coast Cichlid Association

-- 
Dave Draper                         |
Senior Engineer - Debugger & Tools  |     Losers make excuses,
Borland International               |     Winners make it happen!
dave@borland.com                    |
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Paul A Prior)
Subject: Re: (M)Blue Ribbon Eels, Pinnatus Batfish, Morish Idols.
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 22:12:59 GMT

In article <wong.721612590@sfu.ca> wong@fraser.sfu.ca (Sam S. Wong) writes:
>I'm thinking about setting up a marine aquarium with a Morish Idol, some
>tangs, and blue surgeons, a volitan lion, and a blue ribbon eel.  
>Most of my concern is for the ribbon eel.  I've tried to raise one in the past
>but have had poor luck feeding it.  I've tried dumping in dead goldfish 
>during the night since the eel is nocturnal but always find that the eel did
>not eat it.  The eel lasted about 6+ months before it died.  
> 
>Has anyone had any luck with these fish?  Can anyone offer any tips?
>
>What about the Pinnatus batfish and the morish Idol?  I hear the Pinnatus
>batfish are just about impossible to keep.  Are Morish Idols relatively easy
>to keep alive?  What do the Batfish and Morish Idol eat?  Clams perhaps?

99% liklihood that you won't keep the moorish idol alive longer than a year.
Don't buy them.  I've got an orbic batfish that seems to be pretty hearty,
though he only eats brine shrimp and formula one so far.  Can't speak for
the Pinnatus.  Keep in mind, however that the adult pinnatus looks entirely
different than the juvenile.

Since you are "thinking about starting up a maine aquarium" frankly you
should stay with creatures with a high constitution until you have
some experience.  I still only buy fish and inverts that are known
to be long-living.  Sure I miss out on some of the really beautiful
fish like the moorish idols, but I'm not wasting money and lives on 
my personal inability combined with greed either.  I may be too
cautious - I've been debating on whether or not to get a mandarinfish
for about 2-3 months now....<G>


-- 
--------pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu----(614) 621-8240----------------
Paul A. Prior    Ban anchors, not reef tanks    Nuke Gay Whales for Jesus  
3rd year medical student		        
The Ohio State U. College of Medicine   Tobacco Kills- Please don't smoke!
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Paul A Prior)
Subject: Re: Newbie seeks info
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1992 00:43:15 GMT

In article <1992Nov5.152503.2149@gacvx2.gac.edu> wiener@dion.gac.edu (Benjamin Wiener) writes:
>I am an inexperienced hobbiest when it comes to aquaria.  I have had  
>goldfish off and on (more off than on) since 1981 when I was 8, and  
>Swordtails and tetras for the last three years (until I let my sister take  
>care of them). I recently changed to all live plants in my 10gal aquarium,  
>which also has numerous snails, 2 3in.+ Chinese Algae Eaters, and seven  
>adult swordtails (all but one of which I have raised from birth) as well  
>as 15+ baby swords from two batches.  I know this is too much but I have  
>nowhere else to put them because my terrapin (I've had it for 3 1/2  
>months) is using my 1 1/2 gal tank.  Here is what makes me inexperienced,  
>I have never bothered with pH or Nitrite or any other type of water  
>testing,  I use city Tap water for water changes,  and I haven't cleaned  
>the gravel in over a year (I wanted a nutrient base for the plants).  I  
>also don't have a working heater.
>
>So,...    What do the experienced ones out there suggest I do to improve  
>my set up?  Specifically,  what do the water tests mean, and if I get a  
>second 10gal. should I mix fish with my painted terrapin (the turtle will  
>need more space soon)? All suggestions welcome!!    

The FAQ comes out the first of every month, I suggest you read it as it
is full of pretty good info for newbies.

As for the immediate future:

1)  get a heater.  Stable temperatures are KEY to long term survival
    for you tank.  For a ten gallon tank, get a SMALL heater such as
    25-50 watts.  Get a good submersible one such as ebo-jager or
    visitherm.  This should cost 12-18.  Cheaper mail order, but you'll
    need to order more stuff to make it worth your while.

2)  Make sure you are treating your tap water before you add it in.
    At least you are doing water changes! <G>.  Put some water 
    treatment chemicals (dechlorinator, etc) in the water and wait
    a few mintutes.  Also try to match temperature to a reasonable
    degree.
 
3)  Fish should not, I would guess, go in with the turtle.  Turtles
    are very messy and will quickly pollute the tank and kill the 
    fish.

Have fun!


>Also do swordtails change sex?  If they don't then I must be crazy because  
>one of my definately female fish now looks acts and performs just like a  
>male.  Please tell me I don't need a shrink!


When they are smaller the male anatomy may not be apparent, I'm not sure
if swordtails actually change sex, however.

-- 
--------pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu----(614) 621-8240----------------
Paul A. Prior    Ban anchors, not reef tanks    Nuke Gay Whales for Jesus  
3rd year medical student		        
The Ohio State U. College of Medicine   Tobacco Kills- Please don't smoke!
From: sylvia@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (Sylvia Budak)
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 16:28:32 GMT
Subject: Re: [M] Caulerpa Problems
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO