HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: lloyd@janus.jhuapl.edu (Lloyd Taylor)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Chimney Cap Source Wanted
Keywords: flue chimney draft
Date: 13 Aug 92 11:06:36 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Johns Hopkins University

I am looking for sources for chimney caps that can be closed from
inside the flue.  One manufacturer is Leymance, but there are others.
Can anyone help me with names/phones/recommendations/experiences/cost?

-- Lloyd Taylor
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: afmartp@lims02.lerc.nasa.gov (PETE MARTIN)
Subject: Re: Home owners Insurance -- Farmers versus Allstate
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Keywords:  Umbrella Insurance State Farm
Organization: ORGANIZATION??...Who has time to be organized?
Distribution: na
Date: 18 Aug 1992 08:58 EST  

In article <1992Aug17.171309.26407@gvl.unisys.com>, garyp@gvls2.gvl.unisys.com (Gary Palangian) writes...
> 
> 
>On a different note, we are considering moving our insurance
>to State Farm (We keep all insurance with one company).
>Any net stories on State Farm? 
> 
I have had State Farm for my auto, renters, and now homeowners insurance 
since I started driving.  From what I have seen, they are a little more 
expensive, in some respects, but, I think the old "you get what you pay 
for" adage *really* rings true here.  I have had two auto claims, both 
were handled much to my satisfaction (other than having my car damaged :-))
and I had a claim on my renter's policy that wasn't covered--it was 
damage to possesions that was the landlord's responsibility but he was 
being a real pain in the a**-- but State Farm paid me the full claim 
amount, less my deductible, then subrogated (sp?) my landlord for the 
entire claim, collected, and paid me back my deductible. 

So in spite of maybe paying a little more for my homeowner's, I think I 
am getting a pretty good deal on my auto, I feel like I am getting a pretty
good deal.

***************************************************************************
* Pete Martin                                                             *
* NASA Lewis Research Center                                              *
* Cleveland, OH                                                           *
* (216)433-8731         afmartp@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov                      *
***************************************************************************
From: ericd@synoptics.com (Eric Davis)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: X10 System Information Needed -- Please
Date: 13 Aug 92 21:27:46 GMT
Reply-To: ericd@synoptics.com
Organization: Synoptics Inc. Santa Clara, California.


I am seeking information on the X10 system. Some items I am 
looking for are:

Companies that make more than your "off the shelf" type of systems.
The X10 spec itself.
A list of any news groups or mailing list for X10/Home control.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Thanks
Eric Davis


=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
In real life:    Eric Davis
On the internet: ericd@synoptics.com
On the air:      KD6HTO (@N6IYA, 440.85, +, 100Hz PL, San Jose/Santa Cruz Area)
On packet radio: KD6HTO @ N6IYA.#NOCAL.CA.US.NA

Invisible airwaves crackle with life.... -Rush
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
From: brian@cbmvax.commodore.com (Brian Fennimore)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Masking tape residue
Date: 18 Aug 92 22:36:48 GMT
Reply-To: brian@cbmvax.commodore.com (Brian Fennimore)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Commodore, West Chester, PA

>I found some stuff at the local K-Mart that works wonders.  It's called
>Stick-off or something close to that.  I had a For-Sale sign taped in
>my car window on tinted glass.  I just sprayed a little of that on there
>and ... viola!  no more residue.

Ran into something similar myself. You can avoid the problem altogether
by using a blow dryer to warm up the adhesive when removing. Works for
all sorts of labels, like those PAID stickers they slap on your merchandise
that is too big to put in bags at the stores. Just try to take one of those
babies off in one piece!

-Brian
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: asphalt roofing shingles: color and quality
Date: 12 Aug 92 16:25:55 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

In article <1992Aug11.210407.22148@dg-rtp.dg.com> eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com writes:
>Several months ago there was a little article in the Journal of Light
>Construction about how sub-standard shingles were showing up with "20-year"
>warrantees.  Sometimes they were failing in as little as 4 years!
>The article said to look for warrantees that are *transferable* to future
>owners of the house, and/or certification that the shingles meet the ANSI
>standard for 20-year shingles (who would have thought there would be an ANSI
>standard for shingle thickness!)


Just think of the possibilities: when you sell your house, you can claim
that it is 100% ANSI compliant! (Sure helps in the database biz.)

Dave
-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
The heart and the mind on a parallel course, never the two shall meet.
						-E. Saliers
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: keith@clodii.Columbia.NCR.COM (Keith Boyd)
Subject: Re: Frogs in front yard
Organization: NCR E&M Columbia SC
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 92 19:28:01 GMT

In article <1992Aug17.213743.4863@twisto.eng.hou.compaq.com> parikh@sirocco.eng.hou.compaq.com (Vijay Parikh) writes:
>During the last 2-3 months, it had been raining heavily in Houston and I guess
>that's when we started noticing a couple of frogs in our front yard.  BTW, we
>have 3 ft. deep bushes that give enough room to frogs to hibernate.
>
>Now that, they have gotten so big, they literally jump about 2 ft. up in the
>air (when I mow my yard, sorry can't run my mower over them).  My kids are
>scarred who used to enjoy the frogs when they were smaller in size.
>
>How to get rid of the frogs?
>
>thx,
>
>Vijay Parikh
>Sr. Mech. Engr.
>Compaq Computer Corporation

Find yourself a fair maiden and have her kiss them! ;-P
Then tell the Prince's to get lost....

Keith


-- 
| Keith M. Boyd  (NCR MCPD Cola.) | Nothing could be finer than huntin' and  |
| 3325 Platt Springs Rd.          |    and fishin' in South Carolina! -Me-   | 
| West Cola., S.C. 29170 |   GO BRAVES!!     | keith.boyd@columbiasc.NCR.COM |
| Vp: 803-791-6419 or 6455    | From uunet: uunet!ncrcom!ncrcae!clodii!keith |
From: smb@ulysses.att.com (Steven Bellovin)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Advice needed on ovens and ranges
Date: 21 Aug 92 21:44:06 GMT

In article <1992Aug20.151010.10417@ultb.isc.rit.edu>, kls4344@ritvax.isc.rit.edu (Person in flux) writes:
> 
> I bought a Tappan self-cleaning gas cooktop/oven 3 years ago and have been
> quite happy with it.  It's fairly easy to adjust and clean, and it lights up
> just fine.  Three other Tappan owners I know have been happy with theirs also. 
> Tappan is a GE product, as is Hotpoint, and isn't terribly expensive.

In our previous house, we bought a GE stove; one reason was how easy
it was to clean the area under the stove top.  That is, when we raised
the top, the burners just lifted off, and left a clear, almost smooth
surface, with very few nooks, crannies, and crevices.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: jeff@cns.nyu.edu (Jeff Fookson)
Subject: How to repair flagstone vestibule?
Reply-To: jeff@cns.nyu.edu
Organization: New York University, Center for Neural Science
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 13:05:14 GMT

The flagstone vestibule in our 8-year old home is starting to come apart -- several
loose tiles and pieces of grout (morter?) falling out. Can someone suggest
a suitable repair, short of removing and redoing the entire vestibule (most of it seems
intact). Thanks.
 Jeff Fookson
 jeff@cns.nyu.edu
From: jfw@jfwhome.FUNHOUSE.COM (John F. Woods)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Telephone Outlets
Date: 20 Aug 92 03:05:16 GMT
Article-I.D.: jfwhome.Bt9Hx4.3wA
Organization: Misanthropes-R-Us

In <Bt99KA.MFB@news.larc.nasa.gov> kludge@grissom.larc.nasa.gov ( Scott Dorsey) writes:
>>We bought a Sony cordless recently, and we were told
>>that it has built-in scrambling.  Are you saying that the scrambling
>>is easy to defeat with the $200 in equipment, or do your comments apply
>>to cordless phones which do not have scrambling built in?
>The DIP switches you describe set a code for call initiation.  All that is
>useful for is to prevent other folks from using your base set to make calls
>from.
>The cordless phones that have built-in scrambling use a voice inversion
>scheme.  They use two oscillator/mixer stages to bring the voice signal
>up to a higher frequency, and then downconvert it back into the audio
>band with the high and low frequencies reversed.  (This used to be called
>Krenkelkan encryption during WWII, since the word "telephone" sounded like
>"krenkelkan" when inverted.)  It's a fairly easy matter to build an
>inverter to listen to the calls, or they sell them in the back of the
>monitoring magazines for $50 or so.

Note that this encryption scheme was quickly abandoned when someone at Bell
Labs noticed that after a few hours of listening to inverted speech, you
learn how to make out most of the words by ear without any decryption
circuitry.
From: stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil (William Stoffel)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Garage Door Opener Regulations
Date: 12 Aug 92 15:56:11 GMT
Reply-To: stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil (William Stoffel)
Organization: Annapolis Detachment, CARDEROCKDIV, NSWC

In misc.consumers.house, glenn@sloth.ncsl.nist.gov writes:

>I just purchased a Genie Garage Door opener and it has a mechanism built in tha
>t
>causes the door to automatically open if something is in it's path.  I don't
>see any need for an optical device to do the same thing.

This is basically true. I have Genie's and are very happy with them.
The auto reverse mechanism, however, does require periodic checking
(I do it once per year) and readjustment if necessary. I suppose some
type of object sensor might be preferred by people who don't/won't do
the periodic maintenance required. I'd still be disappointed (but not
surprised) if somebody felt it necessary to pass legislation about this
tho.

Bill
__________________________________________________________________________
Bill Stoffel              |  CARDEROCKDIV, NSWC  |First things first!     |
stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil |  Code 2759           | (But not necessarily in|
(410) 267-3825            |  Annapolis, MD 21402 |that order) - The Doctor|
_________________________________________________|________________________|
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Splitting a circuit
Keywords: electricity
From: gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 92 21:23:12 CDT
Organization: Garys' Home for Obsolete Computers

jmcging@ssa.gov (John McGing) writes:

> We've just installed a built in microwave over the range (replaced the
> hood over the range) and ran into a problem.  The house is 23 years old
> and has 150 amp service.  I have breaker space available.  Problem is
> that running the microwave for any extended periond pops the breaker,
> unless we turn off all the lights on that circuit <g>.  [Dinner by candle
> light]

Your circuit is overloaded.  What besides the microwave and dining
room lights is on that circuit? What size breaker is it on? A 600W
microwave should pull about 1000W on the circuit, which is less 
than 8.5A. You have more than 8 100W lights and a 15A breaker?

> We have a guy coming out to split the circuit, but wondered if switching
> from incadescent to flourescent lighting fixtures would help?  The old 
> owners put 100 watt bulbs into everything, and switching to 60 in the 
> fixtures extended the running time a whole lot.  Would swapping to flourescen
> [which I prefer to incadescent anyway] further reduce load on the circuit,
> so maybe we could turn a fixture back on?

I won't rehash the compact fluorescent debate here; I use some around
the house, along with regular fluorescents and incandescents.

Definantly split the circuit. While the guy is there, you might want
to have him check the rest of the kitchen circuits and make sure they
aren't shared with something else. Makes things safer....

Gary Heston, at home....
gary@cdthq.uucp
From: bier@acuson.com (Jeff Bier)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Need buyer's broker for Fremont home purchase
Date: 18 Aug 92 18:04:20 GMT
Distribution: ba
Organization: Acuson; Mountain View, California


I'm looking for a real estate broker to work on my behalf in
locating and purchasing a home in or around Fremont.  

Have you recently purchased a home in or around Fremont and
worked with a broker who gave you excellent service?  If
so, please pass along his or her name and telephone number.

If you have someone to recommend, please also let me know
when you worked with them, the area(s) where you looked for
a home, and the kind of home you bought.

Thanks!

-Jeff Bier
bier@acuson.com
415-694-5827
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: jon@destin.dazixco.ingr.com (Jon Stone)
Subject: Re: Garage Door Opener Regulations
Reply-To: jon@ingr.com
Organization: Dazix - An Intergraph Company
X-Newsreader: GNU Emacs 18.58.1, GNUS 3.14.1, NNTP 3.10
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 23:48:55 GMT


>>>>> On Tue, 11 Aug 1992 22:58:54 GMT, garyp@gvls2.gvl.unisys.com (Gary Palangian) said:
 Gary> On the radio the other day, a supposed garage expert said
 Gary> that beginning 1 Jan 1993, all garage door openers must 
 Gary> include an optical system to prevent the garage door from
 Gary> crushing things in its path (like dogs, and kids and stuff).

In my last house, the garage door opener would stop and open back up
if when going down, it sensed a backpressure.  Try closing your door
and then holding it back with your hand.  Mine stopped and went back
up.  With this kind of technology, it doesn't seem that optical
sensors are needed.

From what I read, it seems to me that the end is not crushing someone.
How that may be implemented should be up to the manufacturer, as long
as whatever? regulations/requirements are met for safety.

Jon


--
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Jon Stone                                                 jon@ingr.com
Dazix, an Intergraph Company; Boulder, CO               (303) 581-2319
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: phcalama@dial.uwaterloo.ca (Paul Calamai)
Subject: Recommendation sought -- small freezer
Keywords: freezers
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1992 23:28:41 GMT

I'm planning to purchase a freezer and would like to get
recommendations.  I don't need a large freezer so capacity
isn't so much an issue.  What I do want is an efficient and
reliable unit that doesn't cost an arm and a leg.

Please email your replies to me and I will post or email a
summary if requested.

Thanks


-- 
Professor Paul H. Calamai		email: phcalamai@dial.uwaterloo.ca
Dept. of Systems Design Engineering	phone: (519)885-1211 ext. 3182
University of Waterloo			fax  : (519)746-4791
Waterloo, Ont. CANADA N2L 3G1		telex: 069-55259
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: pngai@adobe.com (Phil Ngai)
Subject: Re: Green Tree group for Home insurance - READ THIS
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 01:49:38 GMT

In article <l92sk9INNf8a@exodus.Eng.Sun.COM> srivatsa@karna.Eng.Sun.COM writes:
>In article 18506@fid.morgan.com, joec@fid.morgan.com (Joe Collins) writes:
>>For me, instead of paying about $500/yr, I would pay about
>>$4800 once and then thats about it. And when I sell, I get my
>>money back.
>>
>Same as investing the money and paying the premium with the returns.
>
>Seems like ~10% annual return to me...  Is that good?

What are the tax consequences? If it's non-taxable, it would be
equivalent to perhaps 15% for me.

-- 
My opinions are my own.
A right delayed is a right denied.
From: berner@b-mrda.ca.boeing.com (Ann Berner)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Recommendation for Masonry Restoration
Date: 14 Aug 92 13:29:17 GMT
Organization: Boeing Commercial Airplanes MR&D

Joe, 
	Could you summarize the replies you get?  My chimney needs
some work too....


_____________________________________________________________________________
Ann Berner						Opinions expressed are
Boeing Commercial Airplanes				mine alone; I do not
berner@b-mrda.boeing.com				speak for Boeing.
From: egreen@East.Sun.COM (Ed Green - Pixel Cruncher)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Shooting wild pigs
Date: 18 Aug 1992 14:14:10 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, RTP, NC
Distribution: world
Reply-To: egreen@East.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: laser.east.sun.com

In article 10051@michael.apple.com, ems@michael.apple.com (E. Michael Smith) writes:
>
>I'd go for a compound bow rather than a crossbow just for the 
>second shot capability... I've had a pig charge me, I'd not want
>the experience with an empty crossbow ... 

Ah, but once the pig charges, then you can shoot him in self
defense...


---
Ed Green, former Ninjaite |I was drinking last night with a biker,
  Ed.Green@East.Sun.COM   |and I showed him a picture of you.  I said,
DoD #0111  (919)460-8302  |"Go on, get to know her, you'll like her!"
 (The Grateful Dead) -->  |It seemed like the least I could do...
From: naiming@eng.umd.edu (Naiming Shen)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Which garage door opener to use?
Date: 21 Aug 92 21:28:16 GMT
Organization: Electrical Engineering, University of Maryland


I'm just wondering how do you decide how much horsepower is enough
for the garage door. Any one has a good formula? thanks.

Naiming,
From: brian@cbmvax.commodore.com (Brian Fennimore)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Home Time fans
Date: 12 Aug 92 17:22:56 GMT
Reply-To: brian@cbmvax.commodore.com (Brian Fennimore)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Commodore, West Chester, PA

I autoprogrammed my TV after a blackout last night, and noticed an extra 
channel in the sequence. The name is The Learning Channel, a spinoff of 
The Discovery Channel. Since I am Discovery fan, I left it on and saw 2
episodes of Home Time in a 2 hour span. One I had seen before with the old
female host, and one with the newer one. Looks like a good channel to
watch for us DIY's.

-Brian
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Code for Minimum Window Height?
Date: 20 Aug 92 16:48:45 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

In article <1992Aug19.133029.15538@cbfsb.cb.att.com> 
	tln@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (teresa.l.green) writes:
>Hello -
>	I am adding a shed dormer to enlarge an attic room.  The outside
>wall of the dormer will only be 6'6" high.  I want to match the window 
>size to the rest of the windows on the second floor, but this means 
>the bottom of the window will be only 2' off the floor.  All my downstairs
>windows are only 2' off the floor, but I'm afraid this could be a problem 
>on the second story.  I've tried to call the building inspector for over a week 
>and he doesn't return my calls.  My project is scheduled to start this Sat., 
>and I need to know !!!! I know code may differ from city to city, but I'm just
>looking for some general comments.  Any assistance would be appreciated.


When I was an apartment-dweller, I had a 3rd floor apt (in a converted Vic)
that had a bedroom window that was about 6 inches from the floor.  It also
served as a fire escape.

Dave
-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
The heart and the mind on a parallel course, never the two shall meet.
						-E. Saliers
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: heon@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (garry.j.heon)
Subject: Re: Marble in shower
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 18:12:43 GMT

In article <1992Aug13.235427.27873@porthos.cc.bellcore.com>, patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie) writes:
> 
> I put it down in my bathroom. The first mistake I made was to use a felt
> tip pen to mark the cuts for the edge pieces. I marked them on the back
> and numbered each one. This helped a lot when installing them. I came in
> the next morning, and there were large red numbers on the marble. The
> red ink had bled through 3/8" of marble to the surface.
> 
SECOND MISTAKE!!
> Luckily, soaking the floor with Clorox full strength took that out, but
> it also put a slight discoloration into the marble.

Never never never use Clorox on tile grout or on marble.  Yes it will stain!
If you want to clean the stains then go to your local pool store and
buy a gallon of acid.  The acid in the pool store has the iron removed,
hence no stain.  Mix it about 3 to 1, wipe on rinse off.  Just be careful
though it's not a dangerous as you might think.

******************************************
* MY OPINIONS.............AT&T's NETWORK *
*                                        *
* Garry Heon                     AT&T    *
* heon@cbnewsg.att.com       Holmdel, NJ *
******************************************
From: brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 17:17:21 GMT
Subject: Re: Need advice on replacing plastic gutters
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house

There's an article from about a year ago in Fine Homebuilding on gutters.
I'm home sick, and too damned tired to search my FHB archive, but
from what I remember:
  Aluminum is pretty nice, *relatively* easy to install, but
  was considered non-paintable.  (This has been my experience with
  aluminum body parts from an old sports-car.  The factory finish
  is pretty much what you get.  See your body shop if you want to try
  something better.)

  Galvanized is more paintable, though you have to solder the connections
  (Al use clips, rivets, and some goop.)  This seems to be mildly tricky,
  since you can't use a torch directly on the metal, for fear of
  burning off the zinc coating.

  The installer *much* preferred clips over the spike and ferrule; the
  s&f method doesn't always stay put, since you are spiking into
  endgrain (if you spike into rafter tails, that is).  The clips are
  easier to set up, though it is better if you are going to be
  replacing the roof while you are at it.

  The author did not have anything to say about plastic; he didn't
  install it.  He did mention wood, but it's very expensive and a bit
  tough to install and make water tight.  It's nice looking if you really
  want the look.

My own experience says that limited runs of plastic can do OK.  I've
used the Rain-go system, with the neoprene seals lubricated with silicone.
It does take latex paint, but is rather fragile.  I have only done
two straight bits.  

I will be replacing gutters when I do my roof.  Had to put off the entire
project, due to the state of my budget, but I hope to do the number next
spring.  I'll post one of my long project reports whenever I get it done.

Pete Brooks