HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: wack@ariel.ncsl.nist.gov (John Wack)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: season's greetings
Date: 23 Dec 92 13:29:23 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: National Institute of Standards & Technology



1992's been a good year for woodworking for me.  To all of you out
there who have offered a lot of good advice and been unfailingly
courteous in your postings, have a good and safe holiday and a 
happy 1993.  This newsgroup has been a real treasure to those of
us like me who can never know enough about woodworking, so thanks 
again to all involved.

-John Wack

John P. Wack
Computer Security Division
National Institute of Standards and Technology
jwack@nist.gov
From: RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Louvered shutters
Date: 22 Dec 92 22:22:27 GMT
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-VMS-To: IN%"WOODWORK%IPFWVM.BITNET@pucc.Princeton.EDU"
MIME-version: 1.0
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT

Woodsmith #37 has an artical on building louvered doors.

They say the big trick is cutting the slots for the lovers uniform in size
and depth  and getting all the spacing the same.

They spend a lot of the artical on how to build a jig and and indexing system
to handel both tricks.

It looks pretty easy once the jig is built.

You can get a reprint for about $4 from woodsmith 1-800-444-7002

                        Ron Tye (all opinions my own)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bednarek@picard.med.ge.com (Dennis Bednarek Mfg 4-6971)
Subject: Re: Finishing walnut
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Distribution: rec
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 92 10:48:33 GMT

garry hodgson (garry@alice.att.com) wrote:
: bednarek@picard.med.ge.com (Dennis Bednarek Mfg 4-6971) writes:
: 
:   However if you already oiled the surface regardless of how long
:   wait for the oil to dry make sure that whatever you use works
:   with that oil.  I recked a great table by deciding to spray it
:   polyutethane varnish after applying danish oil several years back.
: 
: Pardon my ignorance (newbitude), but why did this wreck the table?
: Are some finishes incompatible with oil?  Or is it just
: danish oil?  I've heard of mnixtures of poly and tung oil, f'rinstance.


I'm not really sure why, or what went wrong.  What I do know is that
several weeks after coating a table with oil I decided to add a coat
of poly for greater durability.  Shortly after spraying the table
the surface apeared real bubblie.  The next day there were check marks
and areas where the poly didn't seem to dry.  After several days I
tried resanding and respraying but the same results occurred.  My
thaughts is that something in the oil and the poly were non-compatable.
I do not remember the brand names of the poly or the oil that I used.
Since then I only use oil stains with poly top coats of the same 
brand names and check that they are compatable.  An example I also
found is that DeVoe stains (which is all the woodwork in my new house)
is not compatable with any poly finish.  I found this out by calling
the factory direct prior to attempting to touch up some areas with
poly.   Lucky I called first.

dennis
: 
: -- 
: Garry Hodgson			A slow winter day
: AT&T Bell Labs			A night like forever
: garry@alice.att.com		Sink like a stone
: att!alice!garry			Float like a feather

--
---------------------------
| UP TIGHT                 | 
| OUT OF SIGHT             |
| EVERY THING IS ALL RIGHT | 
___________________________

The usual disclaimer of self
 and employer applies to all
 above comments.
#
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: DWPLOC@monsanto.com (David W. Ploch)
Subject: Stairs
Organization: The Chemical Group of Monsanto
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 20:29:36 GMT

I have just moved into a new house where we had a beautiful T-staircase 
built.  The treads are all ready to be stained as are the hand rails.  I 
plan on painting the spindles and other trim work gloss white.

My question is:  what is the best order to do this?  Should I stain & polyu 
the hardwoods and then paint everything else.  I was thinking that this 
would work if I taped all the areas where they connected.  After doing the 
staining and polyu then the paint would be easily wiped off.


HELP!!!!

ps.  I am not sure but in hindsight I should NOT have cheaped out by doing 
this part myself but I wanted to be able to say I did something.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ameres@ithaca.cat.rpi.edu (Eric Ameres)
Subject: Re: brands/flavors of laquer
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy NY
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 19:52:08 GMT

In Article 16843, stevep@sparky.se.hou.compaq.com (Steve Pinn) wrote:

>Eric, I have been using Hydrocoat for just over a year with conventional
>spray equipment with good success.  I understand that it even works better
>with the proper HVLP equipment.  I have used their Poly, Top Coat and Dual
>Purpose finishes.  The one that I have had the least problem with and best
>result is their Dual Purpose.  The same product is used as a sanding sealer
>and top coat, it does not finish hazy and applies easily.  As with all
>Hydrocoat products you can add a hardner which will increase the finish
>hardness significantly.  The hardner will not cause the lacquer in your
>gun to polymerize like a catalytic finish but instead will evaporate
>in a bout 24 hrs and the product reverts to its original hardness.

Thanks for the response

I am a bit confused though.  The Hydrocote products in the
Woodworker's Supply catalog are: Polyurethane (normal poly),
Polyshield (exterior poly), Sanding Sealer, Flowout Additive, Reducer,
and Clear Finish (waterbased lacquer-ish type).

I'm getting very confused over what's what within the Hydrocote line.
Is the Dual Purpose the same as the Polyshield?  They mention it
doesn't require a sealer.  Is the Top Coat the same as the Clear
Finish?

Thanks for the help.

Eric.

-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Eric Ameres,  Software Engineer                 ameres@cat.rpi.edu
New York State Center for Advanced Technology in Automation & Robotics
Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute - CII 8313, Troy, NY 12180-3590
From: lakia@ipact.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Thanks for Poplar source
Date: 28 Dec 92 10:23:09 CDT
Organization: IPACT, Valparaiso IN

In article <1992Dec28.101255.181@ipact.com>, lakia@ipact.com writes:
To the flame sources.....(corrected spelling of poplar)

> To all those who responded for my search for poplar:
> 
> I found poplar at my local supplier Whites for $0.85 number
> one common.  I took all they had (85 board feet), they
> don't get it very often, and I might still have to find
> another source. I've included the price for others who might 
> be interested (All is 4/4 rough, Kiln dried). 
> 
> 	Whites Lumber
> 	Valparaiso, IN
> 	219-759-2592
> 
> 	poplar          0.85 (#1 Common)
> 	soft maple      0.96 (#1 Common)
>  	white/red Oak   2.42 (SElect)
> 
> 	Launstiens
> 	Mason, MI
> 	517-676-1133
> 
> 	poplar		1.35 (Select)
> 	Soft Maple	1.30 (Select)
> 	White/Red Oak	2.10 (Select)
> 
> Earl Lakia			Email:  LAKIA@IPACT.COM
> IPACT Inc.			Voice:  219-464-7212
> 260 South Campbell		FAX:    219-462-5387
> Valparaiso, IN   46383
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: pngai@adobe.com (Phil Ngai)
Subject: Re: re: Jointer vs Planer - Thanks
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 08:40:18 GMT

In article <1hf884INN115@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> an625@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Kryl Logan) writes:
>In a previous article, gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz) says:
>229 lines of text delted...
>
>>  This is the last I have to say in this matter.
>
>Thank goodness

I'd rather read a few hundred lines of articles by Houtz and Leeds
than the single line that you have given us.

-- 
My opinions are my own.
From: coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM (Chip Coffin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Safest way to use radial arm saw?
Date: 22 Dec 1992 00:48:25 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Distribution: world
Reply-To: coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: surfin

Well I certainly can't let this topic go by without throwing in 
my 2 scents (sniff, sniff).


The term that describes how most radial arm saw crosscuts work
is called "climb-cutting".  In other words, the blade has the 
tendency to climb onto the work.

NEVER!!!NEVER!!!NEVER  attempt climb cutting  when the radial arm saw
is in "rip" mode.  The piece will be sucked into the saw, and 
potentially take your hands with it.

For croscutting, it is quite possible to *not* do climb cutting 
by first extending the carriage, placing the work behind it, and then
pushing the saw across it.  This does have the disavantage that 
work piece can be lifted by the saw blade.  But climb cutting on
cross-cuts works pretty well, and although it feels like you can cut your
arm off, as long as you keep your hand away from the blade and your
other hand on the carriage, you shouldn't have problems.  YOU STILL
NEED TO BE CAREFUL.

chip
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: kph@cs.brown.edu (Kenneth P. Herndon)
Subject: classes
Organization: Department of Computer Science, Brown University
Distribution: rec.woodworking
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1993 16:33:35 GMT


Does anyone have any experience taking classes in fine woodworking or
furniture making in the Providence, RI area?  I would appreciate any
information you might have about this.  Thanks in advance.

-ken
--
-----------------------------------------------------------
ken herndon    kph@cs.brown.edu          uunet!brunix!kph
               kph@browncs.bitnet
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: Tax Advice
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 20:09:54 GMT

millios@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (william.l.millios) writes:
: 
: With some preliminary research, I have discovered that a business
: only has to be "profitable" (i.e., income exceeds expenses) for
: two years out of 5.  That means I can buy, buy, buy for the next
: two years, sell a little all five years, and only have to earn
: more in the fourth and fifth year in order to have a positive
: net income.

You don't even have to be profitable then. All you have to do is
convince the IRS that you are making a "good faith effort" to turn
a profit. 

... delided ...

: One wrench in the works - I live in NJ, my wife lives in D.C.
: The shop (strangely enough) is down in DC - where the space is,
: and where my weekends are spent.  The "business" is in the
: process of being formed in DC.  However, I'll have to declare
: NJ state taxes, and she declares DC taxes.  Can we then file
: jointly for federal tax?  If not, how does this affect the 
: business?  How do I indicate my expenses to NJ?

As long as you are married - it does not matter where you both
live. All you have to do is agree to file jointly - as well as
use the same deduction method. 

Whether you file jointly, or separately, has no bearing on the
business. That is a separate filing entirely. If NJ is anything
like Oregon, then you would use the Federal forms for both your
federal and state business tax reporting.

Remember, if you go into business part-time, you have to pay
self-employment tax, social security, and possibly unemployment
tax. There may be others - consult a lawyer specializing in
small businesses.

Bill
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Wed, 30 Dec 1992 13:00:15 +1000
From:         T.DUNN@MAILBOX.UQ.OZ.AU
Subject:      Re: coloured stains for kids blocks

>How about analine(sp?) dyes?  Anyone every use them on pine?  Safety?
>Suppliers?  I have a scroll saw puzzle book that has some color
>pictures of wood dyed with this stuff and the colors are amazingly
>vibrant.  Don't know much about them tho.
>
>Ken

I just quit from the net (I've resigned!) but I thought I should let you
know about aniline dyes.  I did my doctorate  on bladder cancer, some of
the first substances officially recognised as "cancer causing" (c. 1900)
were the so called "coal-tar" dyes, to which the aniline dyes belong (this
is assuming that the stuff  you buy is actually "aniline").

I would highly recommend that you keep this stuff away from kid's toys!  I
don't know of alternatives, but from a toxicology point of view, plastic
(or polyurethane) finishes are infinitely safer.

P.S. if you feel like it, can you post this for me?
  *****************************************************************
  * Tim Dunn                       Centre of Molecular Biology      *
  *                                 University of Queensland         *
  * email:                             St Lucia,                             *
  * t.dunn@mailbox.uq.oz.au         Brisbane, Australia 4072             *
  *****************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: hamilton@batman.rtp.dg.com (Eric Hamilton)
Subject: Re: Safest way to use radial arm saw?
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 92 18:49:28 GMT
Organization: Data General Corporation, Research Triangle Park, NC

In article <BzH9BG.A3F@fc.hp.com>, scot@fc.hp.com (Scot Heath) writes:

|> I had quite a scare with a radial arm saw.  I was cutting banisters for my
|> deck and I had a jig set up because I had a bunch to do.  I would cut one,
|> flip the remainder, cut another and then get a new piece of stock.  I got
|> distracted and the vibration of the saw caused the carriage to work it's
|> way out on the arm.  I picked up a piece of lumber and without really
|> looking, swung it up on the table and hit the motor of the saw.  I nearly
|> wet my pants when I realized I could just have easily swung my hand into
|> the blade.  I immediately put blocks under the front legs to cause the
|> carriage to be held in by gravity.

A number of us have responded to the initial poster, either by email or by
post, about the importance of getting hold of the manual for the tool.

This story reminded me that the manual for my RAS (Sears, 12 yrs old,
incomparably better than anything they sell now) mentions this particular
hazard and the importance of setting up the saw so that it slopes towards
the back, to prevent exactly this from happening.

How many more safety rules of that sort, not at all obvious during setup,
are there?

I hope the original poster follows our advice and gets the manual before
he uses his saw.  This is good advice for any new tool, but for something
as dangerous as a big saw, is essential.


-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Eric Hamilton				+1 919 248 6172
Data General Corporation		hamilton@dg-rtp.rtp.dg.com
62 Alexander Drive			...!mcnc!rti!xyzzy!hamilton
Research Triangle Park, NC  27709, USA
From: tgillesp@sloth.mlb.semi.harris.com (Tom Gillespie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Maple tops available
Keywords: maple workbench
Date: 21 Dec 92 19:38:04 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

I have a friend who has several lab tables he is trying to get rid of.
They have hard maple tops and sheet steel legs below.  But you probably don't 
want the legs - there're kinda shaky.  He is selling the whole table for $75,
but will sell just a top for $50.  These tops are very nice maple - 
2" think X 30" X 60" long.  The tables are made by the Dayton company.  
I bought two tops from him which I plan on making into a workbench and a 
carving bench.

The building the tables are in was just sold, and I hated to think they would 
get sold or auctioned as part of the other junk in the building (just thinking
of my fellow woodworkers).

If anyone is interested, reply via email to my address below (don't post it).
I haven't worked out the shipping logistics yet.  The tables are in 
Coco Beach, Fl, and are fairly heavy (if anyone has any suggestions there, 
let me know.)

Tom Gillespie
tgillesp@mlb.semi.harris.com
From: grun@intellistor.com (Paul Grun)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: refinishing kitchen cabinets
Date: 22 Dec 92 19:21:42 GMT
Organization: Intellistor, Inc.

In <01GSKQS26ZPU8Y4YLT@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM> RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM writes:

>My Girl friend (Kathy) has just had her Kitchen cabinets
>professionally refinished and new doors hung. The job turned out

 (deleted...)

>   The finish appears to be a polyurethane of some kind and since he
>   used an HVLP sprayer to apply it and it dried very quickly I would
>   guess it's water based.

I'd bet a nickel that he sprayed a lacquer.  Lacquer has the property
of drying very quickly.   
If you're _really_ curious, try a little lacquer thinner on it.  If the
finish melts, it's lacquer. If it's polyurethane, though, 
paint thinner should melt it. 
If I were you, though, I'd do it when Kathy isn't looking... :-)
Or, you could always just ask the Refinisher.  Easier and more reliable
answer, plus it'll preserve your relationship.

>                         Ron Tye (all opinions my own)

-Paul  (ditto on the opinions)
-- 

goes to show, you don't ever know...
grun@intellistor.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stevenj@microsoft.com (Steven Johnson)
Subject: Re: microwave wood?
Date: 23 Dec 92 17:44:00 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp.
Summary: Delicate touch

In article <1992Dec18.151643.18677@husc3.harvard.edu>, jander@husc8.harvard.edu (Georg Jander) writes:
> I heard that one can speed up the drying process of small pieces
> of green wood (e.g. something turned on a lathe) by putting them
> in the microwave.  I tried this with a chunk of maple wood and the
> microwave on "defrost".  A short time later, I had a lot of smoke and
> a piece of charred wood.  Does anyone have any better suggestions
> for me? 


Microwave drying is a fine art, and not always successful even with infinite
patience.  Some woods just don't seem to take to it.  But here's what I do
with (usual) success:

Get two large zip lock plastic bags and put your piece inside one.  Close 
the bag.
Put it in the microwave on the *lowest possible setting* and zap it for 30
seconds.  Take the bag out and look for condensation on the inside of the
bag.  If none, zap it again for 30 seconds. (It helps to keep a log of your
power setting, time, wood species, and condensation results.) Keep this up
until your have condensation that totally obscures the visibility of the 
piece inside, or until the piece feels almost hot.

Once you get to this point, open the bag, turn it inside out, and transfer
the piece ot the second bag.  Let the first dry for a while as you use the
second.  When the piece has cooled to normal temperature, repeat the whole
process.  Continue with this sequence until the condensation stops after
a period of cooking that normally produces condensation.

As you gain experience and build your log, you may be able to increase
cooking time (and/or power) to speed things up.  But start slowly
at first, and I'd suggest cooking a waste block of the wood species 
you'll be turning so you don't wreck a good piece as you gain experience.

GOod luck.
From: djt@merlin.caltech.edu (David Thompson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Turning wet wood
Date: 30 Dec 1992 13:51 PST
Organization: California Institute of Technology
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: merlin.caltech.edu
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    

Turning wet wood:

	I have turned a couple of bowls out of green oak and cedar. The 
process I used to dry them without cracking (and the knots didn't fall out,
either) was to turn them roughly to size, then stuff them full of the wet 
shavings, and pack it in more shavings in two brown-paper grocery bags. I let
this sit for about 6 weeks undisturbed (until the shavings dry out), then 
finish the turnings on the now-mostly dry wood. You could probably turn them
finished when green, and go through a similar gradual drying process to dry
them out, but the wood will probably warp a bit. Polyethylene glycol (PEG) is
sometimes used to replace the water in the green wood, preventing shrinking/
cracking, but I have not tried this. 

				Good Luck - Dave.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: gnc@ace.acadiau.ca (GRAHAM CHEESEMAN)
Subject: SHOP SAFETY - AIR QUALITY
Keywords: AIR, DUST
Organization: Acadia University
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 14:46:55 GMT

While I am very attentive to wearing ear protectors and safety glasses while 
using stationary power tools,  I limit respirator usage to finishing.  I 
realize that organic vapors pose a threat to health, but what about fine 
wood dust?  Should woodworkers use dust protection and if so what type 
of filter is adequate?  Is the dust from certain wood species more harmful 
than that from others?  Like many DIYs, I work in a small basement with 
limited air circulation, so the dust can become a nuisance, but is it 
harmful?
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: SmartLevel (need info)
From: ebs@lilly.com (Eric B. Stauffer)
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 13:35:14 GMT
Distribution: world,local
Organization: Eli Lilly and Company

I am thinking about buying my brother a SmartLevel for his birthday in 
February. Anyone have any experience with them? How much do they 
cost?		

Thanks,
  Eric

 Eric B. Stauffer - Clinical Research Information Systems
 Eli Lilly & Comapny, Indianapolis, IN 46285 
 Internet: ebs@lilly.com
 

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: asket@acad2.alaska.edu
Subject: Ryobi & Fein Detail Sanders
Organization: University of Alaska
Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1993 05:02:55 GMT

Happy New Year!  I'm about to buy the new Ryobi detail sander (triangular      
head).  Eagle hardware sells it for $48.  Fein also makes a detail sander
at about $240.  Is the quality difference really worth that much?  
  
Have any of you used these new triangular-head detail sanders?  
  
Thanks.      Karl Thoennes
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: whit@carson.u.washington.edu (John Whitmore)
Subject: Re: How to get a square edge
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 06:30:50 GMT

In article <1992Dec21.123736.9479@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com> carrd@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com writes:
>
>I've run into this problem alot when dealing with long pieces of wood
>(> 5') and thought I'd ask the wisdom of the net.  The problem I refer to
>is getting a true edge on a board when the deflection of the warp is 
>only about 1/2 - 1 inch over the entire length.  The bed on my jointer
>(Jet 6") is too short to detect the curve, thus all I end up with is a 
>curve on a smaller width board.  

	Rip the board on a table saw.  1" is a LOT of curvature
to try to take out on a jointer.

	For small curvatures, one can just have at the bulge with
a jack plane, taking multiple short passes and sighting frequently
down the board.  The jointer should still be the final tool to
get the edge straight for critical work.

	John Whitmore

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stevenj@microsoft.com (Steven Johnson)
Subject: Re: Plane Pricing
Date: 31 Dec 92 19:08:07 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp.
Summary: lots of books

In article <01GSXK8FEVS20000HO@LIFE.UAMS.EDU>,         "Wile E. Coyote" <BBHULSEY@LIFE.UAMS.EDU> writes:
> Greetings!
> 
> 
> I'd like to know if there are any publications discussing antique (or simply
> old) woodworking tools and the current market value/pricing thereof.  In
> particular, I'm interested in getting information about older Stanley and
> Bailey hand planes, dates of manufacture and descriptions of various models,
> pricing, etc.  Any information is greatly appreciated.  Thanks!
> 
> .......


Lots.  Check out a recent issue of Fine Woodworking, look in the back
for the list of advertisers, and find the ad for Manny's Books.  Their
ad will have a whole section an antique tool books, and that's not
even complete.  But it's a good start.

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking