HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: macman+@pitt.edu (Dennis H Lippert)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: '57 TR3 no engine go jap?
Date: 15 Aug 92 19:50:34 GMT
Organization: University of Pittsburgh

In article <1992Aug12.063427.9552@mr.med.ge.com> hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987) writes:

[about putting japanese drivetrain into Triumph TR3]

>Keep in mind that some collecter in the future is going to curse you eternally
>if you do anything to structurally modify the car, so that the original, PROPER,
>engine cannot be put back in.

>If you don't want to deal with the Lucas electricals and the crappiness of the
>engine in general, perhaps you should just drive a Toyota or Nissan.

>Sorry, just that it's a sore spot with me.  Having to undo what some hack has
>done to a collectable car is a real pain in the ass.

Sorry, your comments are a sore spot with *me*.  I run into this in my other
hobby... Model Railroading.  There are some folks who want it to be original
and untouched... and others who want it to run and look better.

My personal opinion statement:
-If it works for you, DO IT.
-Don't worry about the next owner... unless you bought it as an investment.
-If you *are* a collector, BUYER BEWARE!  If you want an original, buy one,
and know how to tell one that isn't original.  Don't blame *me* for 
modifying the car... I wanted it to run better, and possibly for something
to do (a la HOBBY).

Sorry, but collectors just strike a nerve with me...

-Den

p.s.  Please don't flame... it's a waste of bandwidth, and it will accomplish
nothing.


-- 
===============================================================================
Dennis Lippert   -   macman+@pitt.edu or macman@vm2.cis.pitt.edu
The "Mac Maniac" operator at the Hillman Research Lab - Univ. of Pittsburgh
"All comments are mine, you'd look like a fool if *you* used them"
From: arup+@cs.cmu.edu (Arup Mukherjee)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: 2nd Attempt: Which gas driers harm the fuel system?
Date: 18 Aug 92 17:04:47 GMT
Organization: School of Computer Science, Carnegie Mellon

This is my second attempt at finding the answer to my question. I didn't
get any replies to my first post. Surely SOMEONE out there must remember
which chemical it is that is sometimes used in gas line driers and is 
harmful to rubber? My original post follows; I think that the two chemicals
in question may be methanol and isopropanol, but even if they are, I don't
know which is the bad one.

Thanks for any replies; here's the original posting:

-- attachment --

 
Hi,
        I remember reading (several months back) in this newsgroup that
certain types of gas line driers could be harmful to the fuel system 
because they contain some chemical that attacks rubber. It was also 
mentioned that other products that use some other chemical are safe. 
I was hoping that someone could remind me what the two chemicals in question
are.
 
Also, on a separate note - can water in the gas cause pinging? (No, my car
isn't pinging but...) I noticed that one of the brands of "dry gas" I looked
at claimed to stop pinging...
 
-Arup
From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Tire speed ratings ?
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 1992 08:22:53 -0500

 RW> so these tires with the little v at the end of the designation are in
 RW> fact V rated tires and there is absolutely nothing to panic about.
 RW> 
 RW> you suckers better remember this; there'll be a test next week.

And another change in the marking system, the week after?
From: wales@valeria.cs.ucla.edu (Rich Wales)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Propylene glycol (was Re: Coolant Disposal)
Date: 12 Aug 92 19:19:37 GMT
Reply-To: wales@CS.UCLA.EDU (Rich Wales)
Organization: UCLA CS Department, Los Angeles

Millam Tackitt mentioned that truck stops may be a good candidate for
the safe disposal of hazardous waste such as used coolant.

In the case of coolant, another possibility to consider would be to
switch to a propylene glycol based coolant (as opposed to the commonly
used ethylene glycol).  Propylene glycol is much less toxic than ethy-
lene glycol (in fact, it's used in small quantities as a food additive),
and its antifreeze/antiboil properties are close enough to those of
ethylene glycol that it should be fine for all but the most extreme of
weather conditions.

--
Rich Wales <wales@CS.UCLA.EDU> // UCLA Computer Science Department
3531 Boelter Hall // Los Angeles, CA 90024-1596 // +1 (310) 825-5683
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: norcott_bill@tandem.com (Bill Norcott)
Subject: Re: Recurring Problems with '86 Ford Escort
Keywords: Escort
Reply-To: norcott_bill@tandem.com  (Bill Norcott)
Organization: Tandem Computers, Inc.
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 23:37:59 GMT

In article <88876@rphroy.ph.gmr.com>, wjs@re3sc139h.gmr.com writes:
|> I have a 1986 Ford Escort Wagon (really it is a '85.5) that has
|> had recurring problems with tie rods and TFI modules.
|> 
|> The tie rods (the WHOLE rod, not the end) have had to be replaced
|> every 25K-30K.  The dealership has always maintained this is normal
|> for this car.  I find this hard to believe that Ford would design a
|> part (a crucial part) that failed that often.  
|> 
|> Is there anyone out there that has had or heard of this problem ?

Ford tie rod ends wear out sooner because they of the "lifetime
lubrication" i.e. no zerk fittings to add grease.  This has been a
recurring theme in this news group.  However, it is usually only be
the inner tie rod ends, not the entire tie rods.  Also, (at least on
the 2.3L) it affects the right side more than the left.  Only one will
go at a time, don't change both.  It sounds as if you may be getting
hosed by the mechanic.

This problem affects all the front wheel drive Fords from what I have
read in this newsgroup.

|> 
|> This same car also EATS TFI modules.  I have heard many say that it
|> is a heat dissipation problem because it is mounted to the distributor
|> which is bolted to the head.  I can understand this.  However, I do 
|> not understand how Ford can get away with not recalling a problem
|> that is so common and on such a widely selling car.  After all, when
|> these modules quit, there is no "limp-in" mode.  You are just stranded
|> wherever you might be.
|> 

When you replace this module you are supposed to coat it with a thick
layer of dialectric grease which dissipates heat from the unit.  This
Duraspark unit is on most if not all of the Fords.  If they don't put
on the grease coating it will fail much sooner.  I have heard of this
one but nowhere near the frequency of occurence as the tie rod ends.
On the other hand the tie rod ends fail very gradually yet noticeably
and the Duraspark goes suddenly.  Part of the distributor maintenance
in the Haynes manual is remove the Duraspark and give it a fresh coat
of grease.  For a couple bucks and some time you can prevent this
problem (unlike the tie rod ends).  The module is easy to replace
yourself.

-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------|
Bill Norcott			GUARDIAN POSIX project
Tandem Computers, Inc.		
10600 N. Tantau Avenue		PHONE:  (408) 285-3253
Cupertino, CA   95014		EMAIL: norcott_bill@tandem.com


Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:11501 sci.electronics:14685
From: jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,sci.electronics
Subject: Re: KNOCK SENSOR - Any recommendations?
Keywords: knock sensor ignition
Date: 21 Aug 92 11:17:13 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.

thomas@bit.UUCP (Thomas Walter) writes:


>RE: knock sensor
> 
>I am looking for a knock sensor. I would appreciate any
>part number, OEM or aftermarket, of a sensor that mounts
>with a bolt.
> 
>Oddly enough, when I asked at the parts counter of some
>auto parts, and performance places, no one could come 
>up with a part number to order. While I KNOW Bosch has 
>some units, I do not have part number for their sensors
>[I worked for Bosch, in Reutlingen, from '86 - '90; so
>I am familiar with automotive electronics :-) ]

Just walk behind the counter and look in the book for yourself.
You need to stay within the same engine family (V-8, 4, etc) but 
most any will work.  I'm quite fond of the one used on the Dodge Laser
turbo.  Fairly broad band so it will work on a lot of engines.  
Cost is about $12.

>Yes, there are "systems" available, including one from
>MSD (Ignition people). MSD's system runs $160 for a 
>sensor and led bar-graph display.

Believe the MSD system is an exhaust gas analyzer using a lambda sensor.

>[After I get the knock sensor, and gritty details worked
>out, I'll post a follow up on the results of using a '67
>Datsun 2000 roadster as the 'test mule.  My handheld
>scope, a Tektronix T202, doesn't have features like the
>new FLUKES, but does the job! Plus it fits in the car:-)].

You'll have to sync the display to the ignition timing for it to be 
meaningful.  Look at about 5 degrees before ignition to about 20
degrees after.  If you don't gate, you'll be swamped by engine mechanical
noise.  This is the voice of experience.  You really need to do waveform
analysis, as you will see when you hook the Tek up but that's a lot of
work.  

John

-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC               |Interested in high performance mobility?  
Performance Engineering Magazine (TM) |
Marietta, Ga                         |Interested in high tech and computers? 
jgd@dixie.com                        |Write me about PE Magazine
Need Usenet public Access in Atlanta?  Write Me for info on Dixie.com.
From: georgej@gtephx.UUCP (Jefferson George)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Tach kit for Chevy S-10
Summary: tach
Keywords: dash tach
Date: 19 Aug 92 20:28:33 GMT
Article-I.D.: gtephx.1992Aug19.202833.3883
Distribution: usa
Organization: AG Communication Systems - Phoenix, AZ

In article <1992Aug10.135709.23959@esseye.si.com>, jongsma@esseye.si.com (Ken Jongsma) writes:
> In <1992Aug7.224942.329@research.nj.nec.com> behanna@phoenix.syl.nj.nec.com (Chris BeHanna) writes:
> 
> 
> >	I just bought a '92 Chevy S-10 Tahoe (2.8L V6).  It does not have a
> >tachometer.  Does anyone know of an add-on tach kit that mounts on/in the dash
> >in a clean, professional manner?  I want it to look OEM.  I don't want it to
> >look like shit.
> 
> Feeling a little hostile today?
> 
> Anyway, I bought the same vehicle a few months ago and have the same question.
> After checking with all the local parts/speed shops, I gave up. All they had
> were ugly round aftermarket gauges that looked like they were designed in
> 1968.
> 
> If you come across something, please let me know.
> 

Read an article (cannot not remember the mag) where someone did not like the S-10's
'hockey-stick' design of the speedometer so he installed the complete dash from
a GMC Syclone.   

My $0.01....

-- 
Jefferson George                                    
AG Communication Systems, Phoenix, Arizona 
Inet: gtephx!georgej@enuucp.eas.asu.edu   
UUCP: {ncar!noao!enuucp | att}!gtephx!georgej
From: jimv@hienergy.Eng.Sun.COM (Jim Vienneau  - Sun Microsystems)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: GM 2.8L V6 oil leaks
Date: 19 Aug 92 17:07:07 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Mt. View, Ca.
NNTP-Posting-Host: hienergy.east.sun.com

In article <4810@blue.cis.pitt.edu.UUCP> macman+@pitt.edu (Dennis H Lippert) writes:
>Hi all!
>
>I find it gravely humorous to find that the engine I just bought (1984
>Olds Omega w/ 2.8L V-6) has been referred to as the "Engine from Hell"...
>
>Anyhow, this thing is leaking oil.  It appears to leak around the valve
>covers, but we haven't really cleaned anything up to check for sure.

The 2.8 usually leaks from the valve covers and the timing cover crank
seal. Neither are very difficult to fix. Funny thing about the 2.8, it
seems that you either get a good one or a bad one. I've seen lots die
at <70K and seen lots go over 100K. I suspect that lack of maintenance
is the prime factor in the 2.8 as in most other engines. Perhaps it's
just less tolerant.



--
Jim Vienneau, Sun Microsystems Inc - Billerica, MA
Email: jvienneau@east.sun.com   Amateur Radio: WB1B
Good old Ma Bell (well old anyway): (508)671-0372
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: Tom Santos <tom_santos@taligent.com>
Subject: Spark plug wire help
Organization: Taligent, Inc.
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 16:30:58 GMT

What are the symptoms of having bad spark plug wires?
I just had new platinum plugs put in and my timing set but something
still seems a bit funny.

--Tom--
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: Saab 900 Turbo problems
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 92 10:21:14 GMT

 (SULDAL@ESOC.BITNET) wrote:
: Well, I tried posting for help with these problems a couple of
: weeks back, but received no response - soooo, I'll just have to
: keep trying (or junk the car :-). Here it goes:
: 
: The clutch is behaving funny, ie. it only catches on the very first
: bit of travel, when the pedal is almost fully depressed.
: Does this indicate a worn clutch, or is it just out of adjustment?
: If so - how do I adjust it/replace it?
: 
As I recall, the '86 has a self-adjusting clutch.  If the disc were
worn out, you would probably have slippage, and no free-play.  What I think
I read you to be saying is that you have 90% free play and resistance at the
bottom of the pedal stroke, no?

If that's the case, the first thing to try would be to bleed the clutch
lines.  The fluid resevoir is shared with the brake fluid (all the same
stuff), and it's set up in a nifty arrangement which means that if you are
low on fluid, your clutch will stop working LONG before your brakes fail.

If the fluid is low, top it up before you bleed the system....brake/clutch
fluid should be changed once a year, BTW, but I'm guilty of letting it go
myself sometimes.

If bleeding the system doesn't work, post again...I'll ask around.

: Second problem: When the car is stationary, and I turn the wheel
: from one side to the other, a loud crunch is heard from the front
: wheels, as if two pieces of metal are hitting against each other.
: What could be the problem here? It has been there some time, but
: seem to be getting worse now.
: 
What size tires are you using?  That car should have 195/60 - 15's, I believe. 
If it's not tires hitting you are hearing, try jacking up the car
one front corner at a time, get the tire in the air, grasp firmly, and
try to find a 'clunk'.  What you are cheking for is a loose ball joint
or tie-rod end.  If you feel any play at all, determine what axis
it is happening on, that will point to the problem.  Ball joints are
not too bad to do, tie-rod ends require a front-end alignment, so leave
that to the pro's.

: Steen.

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.
hinz@picard.med.ge.com
From:  (Eric Youngblood)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Premium gas to clean engine?
Date: 20 Aug 92 18:42:11 GMT
Reply-To: Peon w/o Email priv (Eric Youngblood)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Richardson, Tx

In article <1992Aug20.203007.1@economics.adelaide.edu.au>, ecrjbruce@economics.adelaide.edu.au writes:
|> In article <1992Aug14.015818.18321@leland.Stanford.EDU>, eap@leland.Stanford.EDU (Eric Perozziello) writes:
|> >>
|> >>I am perfectly aware of the fact that using premium gas in an ordinary
|> >>engin won't improve performance, but my repair manual ("How to Keep
|> >>Your Honda Alive...", an excellent book BTW), says that it's a good
|> >>idea to occasionally fill up with premium. They say this will clean 
|> >>up the engine (from carbon deposits?). So, what does the net think about
|> >>it? 
|> >>
|> 
|> Over here (Australia) one of our more serious car magazines (Wheels) took the
|> new Volvo for a test drive and found it impossible to get the car running 
|> anywhere near the quoted factory performance.  Then they read the small print
|> and found that these figures only applied if premium unleaded was used.  They 
|> tried it and Voila! instant power gain of something like 10-20 horses.  I
|> realise this won't apply to all cars but does show that in certain engine
|> conditions this sort of fuel is exactly what is claimed.
|> 
|> regs
|> 
|> Rob

There is no additional energy in premium gasoline. regular no-lead has the same
energy as premium.  Octane only refers to the burn characteristics of the fuel.
This includes rate of combustion, ignitability, etc...

As long as the fuel you use can be properly ignited at the right time and burn at
a fast enough (But not too fast) rate to build peak pressure during the optimal
part of the power stroke your engine *will* produce the maximum power that its
design will allow.  So, if your engine is designed to run on premium grade fuel
you probably need to use it to allow it to produce max power.  If your engine
is not designed to run on premium switching to a higher grade may or may not 
improve its efficiency. Two identical engines may have different fuel requirements
depending on how close to spec they are.  Also, control sensors and ignition 
systems vary from one to the next.  

If a fuel has more energy (example : Jet fuel) it will burn hotter and produce
higher combustion pressures.  If you were to put this fuel in an engine designed
for gasoline it would probably burn holes in the pistons and melt the exhaust
valves. ( This has happened to piston powered aircraft mistakenly fueled with jet
fuel)

As far as fuel deposits go a good 3 to 4 hour road trip once in a while cant hurt.
 
The best benefit premium can add in this dept is keeping the fuel injectors clean
so they can properly atomize the fuel for efficient combustion. Of course if you
have a carburator then who cares as even premium forms fuel varnishes.

Bottom line : if your engine has a problem with regular grade (pings etc...) then
switching to a higher grade could help. If your engine runs fine on lower octane
then higher octane wont help.

$0.02
Ericy
From: alter@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (Eric Alter)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: '89 Beretta Questions
Date: 19 Aug 92 12:17:31 GMT
Organization: IBM Rochester
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM

I'm looking at a 4cyl, 1989 Beretta (5sp, A/C) and had taken it out for a test
drive from a local dealer.  I noticed that the brakes felt sort of squishy, but
worked well.  It just seemed like they felt different than those of my truck or
Monte SS.

I peeked under the hood while I had it out to check the fluid levels and perform
a general inspection.  I couldn't get the oil check cap even off of the engine
(some sort of springy thing seemed to keep it on).

Has anyone heard of any problems that the '89s might of had?  Any bad
experiences?  Good ones?  What might be wrong with the squishy but functional
brakes (51K miles, new tires on it)?

Thanks for any help.
-- 

Eric Alter		alter@rchland.vnet.ibm.com
IBM Corporation		Rochester, Mn
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ajb8886@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Subject: Re: 90 Escort GT engine race at idle ?
Reply-To: ajb8886@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Distribution: usa
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1992 02:07:26 GMT

In article <26838@life.ai.mit.edu>, pwu@oreo.ai.mit.edu (Peng Wu) writes:
>From: romansks@unvax.union.edu (Steve Romanski)
>Subject: Re: 90 Escort GT engine race at idle ?
>
>A little additional information. The car has over 60,000 miles hence no 
>warrenty. 
>
>I have brought the car to Ford and there is no codes in the computer.
>
>I do tend to believe that the problem probably can't be fixed be
>fixed especiall by an "oxy'moron'"  like a 'Ford Mechanic'. :(
>
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------
Yeah, I've had the same problem with my 89 Escort GT.  My "cheap" soloution:
reset the computer by disconnecting the battery temporarily; when you reconnect
all the modifications to the program are set back to factory defaults.

Drive it NORMALLY for the next 15 miles, and it should stay at idle.

Of course, as soon as I start thrashing it a little (running to redline, etc.)
it seems to go back to the "sh*tty" operating mode.  

One other thing:  I noticed that putting premium in the car makes it run rough
and idle rough...whereas el cheapo 87 octane fuel makes it run smooth and 
powerful.  I strongly suspect that this is because the engine computer program
was optimized for 87 octane fuel, and assumes that is what you're using.

Anyone know how to change this?  I know there's an "octane rod" in the TFI 
distributor, but Ford won't tell me anything or sell me different rods,
and the shop manuals say "due to emissions regulations you can only replace
this part with the exact Ford part blah blah blah".

Anyone have any info for a new ROM chip with a program for the Escort GT
which is more optimized around the hard driving that normally screws up the
operating parameters?  Any info would be appreciated.

Alex Brin
From: Larry.Mc.Donald@ofa123.fidonet.org
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: '57 tr3 no engine go jap
X-Sender: newtout 0.01 Jul 13 1992
Date: 12 Aug 92  08:12:00


 saundersb@gtephx.UUCP (Bary Saunders) sez:

 > I have a '57 TR3 with no engine.
 > I i thinking about putting a Toyota or Nissan drive
 > train in it...

   Why not just buy a Toyota or a Nissan?

 > Has anyone out there done this?
 > I have heard nothing but bad things about the
 > original english tractor motor.

   Try talking to someone who actually owns one.

 > I love the lines of the car, but I'd like it to be reliable.

   Again, try talking to someone who owns one with the original 
engine. Remember, this car is 35 years old, and most like it have 
the original engines in them. Don't sound all that unreliable to 
me...





... Larry.Mc.Donald, N6ZMB, Fullerton, California!  <cough, cough>
___ Blue Wave/QWK v2.10

--- Maximus 2.00
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: pab@security.mitre.org (Paul A. Bicknell)
Subject: Re: GM 2.8L V6 oil leaks
Organization: The MITRE Corp., Bedford MA
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 12:55:25 GMT


With regards to leaking 2.8L Chevy V6s...

Yes leaking from the valve covers is very common. The motors are put
together without gaskets, rather GM used a gasket paste. Having owned
two Citation X-11s I can vouch for the need to replace the valve cover
gaskets. A gasket kit exists (since garages have to do this all the
time and they wouldn't think of putting an engine together without
gaskets... ;-). 

My recommendation is that you Gunk your engine, substitute real
gaskets on your valve covers, run the engine and look for other leaks.
My bet is the only other place your are likely to find a leak is the
rear main seal. If you are leaking at the seal you have bigger
problems than valve covers (but lets not talk about that...)

Replacing the valve cover gaskets is easy and hard. The front bank is
trivial, the rear less so. To get the rear cover off and back on I
recommend that you remove the distributor. This will give you
clearance to slide the cover out and back in. 

Motor from hell? Other than the likelyhood to weep a little oil both
mine have been quite reliable to 115K mi.

===============================================================================

Some do, some don't, I might....

Paul Bicknell		email: 	pab@security.mitre.org
The MITRE Corporation	voice: 	(617) 271-3625
Burlington Road		FAX:	(617) 271-3957
Bedford, Mass 01730
From: fschwab@polaris.cv.nrao.edu (Fred Schwab)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: '85 Subaru GL - replacing water pump gasket easy?
Date: 22 Aug 92 21:49:14 GMT
Distribution: rec.autos.tex
Organization: National Radio Astronomy Observatory


My '85 Subaru GL is leaking coolant from around the water pump
gasket.  It looks like removing the water pump also involves
removing the timing belt cover, and perhaps the timing belt as
well - in which case I'd guess that replacing the water pump 
gasket is a bit difficult.  Is that correct?  Or would it be a
relatively easy job to do at home?