HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Incra or Leigh?
Date: 2 Sep 92 21:34:02 GMT
Distribution: na, world
Organization: University of Arizona UNIX Users Group


I've never played with an Incra Jig... I've never even seen one at less than
10'.   

What is it that the Incra Jig really does?   Would I be correct in saying that
it allows the user to position a fence at 1/32 in increments, with excellent
repeatability and good linear accuracy?   Could one get the same effect with
a length of high quality 32 tpi threaded rod, a half nut, some maple boards,
and the book?

Does the thing have templates that the jig slides over/under/through,   sort
of like a Crafstamn template?   Or do you align a mark on the jig with
a mark on the template?   Once set up, do you have to think?
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: yasin@laser.dev.cdx.mot.com (Yasin)
Subject: Help on Router bit selection
Organization: Motorola Codex, Canton, MA
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 17:08:30 GMT
Keywords: router, bits

I am a novice, interested in purchasing a decent set of
router bits. I know it depends on the work I am going to
do and also on the budget. But how about suggesting the
general purpose bits, I have seen lot of catalogs and
cannot make my mind that which bit is more useful then the
others. Experience is the best teacher, so would appreciate
if you can share the knowledge of your experience.

Regards,

Yasin.
Organization: Central Michigan University
Date: Wednesday, 26 Aug 1992 13:56:54 EDT
From: Mark Strandskov <34HLEFG@CMUVM.CSV.CMICH.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Scandinavian styled furniture

Are there any good books on Scandinavian styled furniture?

Thanks,

Mark...
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: doshay@ursa.arc.nasa.gov (David Doshay)
Subject: Re: Painted wood sticking together
Organization: NASA-Ames Biocomputation Center
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 21:10:49 GMT

The proparty of paint you are talking about is called "blocking."
A paint that remains tacky after a long time has "poor blocking."

Consumers Reports rates this aspect of all the paints they check. Some 
Latex paints have excelent blocking properties, very important for
such things as window sashes.

David		doshay@soma.arc.nasa.gov

The thought police insist I tell you:
my thoughts, not NASA's
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: Antonio_DeSimone@ATT.COM (Tony DeSimone)
Subject: Re: need belt sander recomendation
Reply-To: tds@hoserve.att.com (Tony DeSimone)
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 22:09:17 GMT

>>>>> On 2 Sep 92 12:41:55 GMT, david@talgras.UUCP (David Hoopes) said:

David> I just bought a Ryobi (sp).  It was middle of the line price wise.

I think I have the same model, and I'd recommend it highly.  It's
variable-speed, which I think is essential, and the machine has a flat
top, so you can invert it and use it fastened to a workbench to sand
small parts.  (But be careful here!)

David> The Ryobi was $149.  It takes 2x21 in belts.  

I paid about $135 at the local Home Depot, but that was over a year
ago.  (incidentally,  I think you mean 3x21'' for the belt.)

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: dgm@cs.sfu.ca (Dennis Michaelson)
Subject: Re: SUM(sort of) about straightening plywood edges
Organization: CSS, Simon Fraser University, Burnaby, B.C., Canada
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 07:21:26 GMT

>BTW, I have the Delta contractor's saw and have another question.  When the
>saw is running, it seems to run smoothly with no problem.  When I turn it
>off, it starts to slow down and everything is ok.  Eventually, something
>appears to get out of balance and the whole saw starts to vibrate.  The
>...

My el-cheapo Rockwell 9" also exhibits this problem (plus other unhealthy   
noises when running).  My guess is that it is a resonance phenomenon.  As the
blade slows down the frequency of the vibrations changes.  At some points
it hits the resonant frequency of parts of the frame, causing the whole
assembly to vibrate even more.  As the blade slows down it passes through 
this frequency band and the vibration stops. 

The mechanical engineers at Delta should have designed the saw to 
reduce this effect (if my guess is right), but as long as it does
not occur when free-running or cutting it should not be a real 
problem.

==============================================================================
Dennis Michaelson
School of Engineering Science
Simon Fraser University
dgm@sfu.ca
==============================================================================

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ericb@microsoft.com (Eric Brown)
Subject: Re: fence suggestions?
Date: 28 Aug 92 00:58:55 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp

David Knorr writes:
|...
|
|I'm setting up a shop for redoing a kitchen and a few other storage
|cabinet-type projects (closets, bookshelves, etc.).  I'm thinking of
|buying a Delta contractor's 10" table saw with a 52" unifence.  I know
|the 30" is adequate for most jobs, but I wanted the longer fence for
|those times when it would be nice to make larger cuts.  The main
|question is what are the pros and cons of the unifence vs the
|Biesmeyer or something like the Excaliber?  Any other advice would be
|appreciated.

I have a Powermatic 66 with a Biesmeyer fence and find it to be very
well made and quite accurite.  One small nit, however.  It would be
very handy to have a "micro-adjusting" thumbscrew for moving the fence
small amounts.  I have to resort to unlocking, tapping, and then
relocking to make small adjustments.  Some of the heavier European
saws have these fine adjustment wheels and perhaps some of the newer
American replacement fences have them also.  It is a feature worth
looking for in a fence.

    Eric

-- 
    Eric
                 Microsoft PSS R&D, OnLine Development Team
            {sun, uw-beaver, apple, uunet, fluke}!microsoft!ericb 
                       internet: ericb@microsoft.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Delta EMS (was Re: Incra jigs)
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 22:57:41 GMT

Jordan B Pollack writes
> CLEARLY, what we all need is a combination digital/analog rip fence,
> with a disengageable digital control, either a leadscrew/quarter-nut
> combination or a double rack combination,

How about fitting Delta's EMS (Electronic Measuring System) onto the rip
fence?  Supposedly, its accuracy is on the order of 0.001". Anybody have one
care to tell us about it?
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: guy@slustl.slu.edu (Guy Smith)
Subject: Re: CAREFUL WITH THAT PROPELLER!!!!
Organization: Saint Louis University  Saint Louis, MO
Distribution: world, na, usa
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 13:57:43 GMT

In article <1992Aug27.050756.27168@organpipe.uug.arizona.edu> tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin) writes:
>
>angle to the face of the panel.  With the "vertical panel raising" bit, 
>you set the router up in a jig horizonatally, and run the panel under the bit.
>The axis of the bit is parallel to the face of the panel. You get the 
>same profile.   
If your table saw has bolt-on extensions, it is relatively simple to rig
a router mount for horizontal routing. It is much easier to keep the
panel steady than with the typical narrow fence you get with normal
router tables. I've got one that I rigged for my Craftsman table saw
that I've used with straight bits quite successfully. Should work with
these panel raising bits. BTW the bits are advertised in the latest
Fine Woodworking. Something like sixty apiece if memory serves.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: clarke@watson.ibm.com (Ed Clarke)
Subject: Re: PC databases for woodworking
Date: Wed, 02 Sep 1992 13:45:50 GMT
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center
Keywords: computer,database,PC Index,Woodfind,journals

In article <Btx0MF.K60@watserv1.uwaterloo.ca>, jjoslin@kingcong.uwaterloo.ca (Jeff Joslin) writes:
|> "The PC Index to Fine Woodoworking".  It appears to be an exhaustive
|> cross-reference of all articles appearing in FWW.  It costs $39.95 US, ppd.

I bought this program; it cost me more than I want to admit 8-(.   The
$39.95 is just a down payment, then you have to spend the $$$ to get a
complete set of the FWW back issues.  I got mine from a guy in Canada!

The index has all the FWW ON xxxx books, all FWW magazine indexes and
a lot of little items that don't get into the index itself ( such as
the back cover topic ).  I like the program and would be really happy
if it'd work with Fine Homebuilding and Fine Gardening databases as well.
They are supposed to be working on them ...

Ed Clarke
clarke@watson.ibm.com
(wrong distribution on the first posting of this message)
From: betz@pinecrest.nsc.com (Gary Betz)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Smoothing edges from a table saw cut(HOW?)
Date: 26 Aug 92 22:05:18 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: National Semiconductor Corporation

In article <1992Aug24.021610.24807@sactoh0.sac.ca.us>, jhp@sactoh0.sac.ca.us (Jim H. Puga) writes:
|> I've started my bookcase project and have a question.  I cut my
|> pieces a little bigger than needed and figured I would straighten
|> out the edges by some other means(I didn't want to try and do
|> exact cuts on the table saw).
|> 
|> I tried routing the wood(it is plywood) and I soon noticed that 
|> this isn't a very good idea.  Aside from buying a joiner, is
|> there another way to "straighten" out the edges?  Is there a
|> special router bit that can do it?  I could plane it but that
|> seems like it would take too long.
|> 
Jim,

Woodsmith featured a jig for cutting plywood panels using a router
recently. It uses a straight bit in conjunction with the jig to make the
cut. 

Or, you could use a router table with a stright bit. Set the infeed and
outfeed fences up like a jointer. 

Another way to do it is to use a flush cutting laminate bit in
conjunction with a straight edge guide clamped to the bottom of the
piece you are trying to join.

In summary, I've used the router a few times to join the edge of a
board, but nothing beats a jointer for the best job. 

Just my $.02

-- 

Regards,

Gary Betz
San Jose, CA
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas Rand)
Subject: Re: Polyurethane advice for hot dry climate?
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Distribution: na
Date: 4 Sep 92 10:46:24

In article <1992Sep4.114522.10824@clpd.kodak.com> obrien@serum.clpd.Kodak.Com (John O'Brien (x37279)) writes:

   You along with many others have had all kinds of problems using these
   new water based finishes. I personally don't think the manufacturers
   have ironed out all the bugs with this stuff yet because all you hear
   is complaints about mostly bubbles. In this case, the pros dont
   outweigh the cons and I would recommend using the tried and true
   method of applying solvent based finish products until we start
   hearing good reports about water based finishes.

I don't know what you're talking about.  Many people have reported
good results.  I have certainly obtained good results.  Water based
poly goes on easily,  and dries quickly to a sandable state.  This
allows many coats in a day or two and means that someone can finish
a project in a weekend.  

Incidentally,  I have never had a problem with bubbles in the finish.
I've used cheapo disposable foam brushes.



--
Douglas S. Rand <drand@osf.org>		OSF/Motif Dev.
Snail:         11 Cambridge Center,  Cambridge,  MA  02142
Disclaimer:    I don't know if OSF agrees with me... let's vote on it.
Amateur Radio: KC1KJ
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: isr@rodan.acs.syr.edu (Michael S. Schechter - ISR group account)
Subject: Re: CAREFUL WITH THAT PROPELLER!!!!
Organization: Institute for Sensory Research
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 92 22:04:34 EDT


For similar fun, try using a large portbale grinder...
a 9x3/8" grinding wheel at 6500 rpm really lets you know
it's there when you move it around..
 ...you really know what they
meant by pendulum precession back in physics 101....
--
Mike_Schechter@isr.syr.edu | XLII,B,+3dB,Non-Nak | Make Tapes, Not War
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: todd.paulus%theweb@meaddata.com (Todd Paulus) 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Gilliom Responses
Date: 3 Sep 92 11:33:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: The Web BBS 1-513-436-9011 6 Lines 1200 News groups 50,000 files!
Reply-To: todd.paulus%theweb@meaddata.com (Todd Paulus) 

To: rec.woodworking,clarke@acme.ucf.edu


  .Subject: Gilliom Responses
  .Message-ID: <1992Aug28.130147.16087@cs.ucf.edu>
  .Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 13:01:47 GMT

(Thomas Clarke) writes:

TC.Haven't got any mail about Gilliom in a couple of days,
  .so here is the summary:

TC.First here is extract from Gilliom's latest add in FWW.

TC.Gilliom Manufacturing Inc, PO Box 1018, St Charles, MO 63302
  .(314) 724-1812

TC.Sells "GIL-BILT" kits for 12" and 18" BS, 10" tilt-arbor table saw,
  .lathe/drill press, 9" tilt-table saw, 6" belt sander, spindle shaper
  .and circular saw table.
  .$2 for catalog, $7.50 for plans (refundable against order) for
  .any mahcine, $25 for plans for all eight machines.

Thomas,
Sorry I didn't catch this post earlier.  I built the 18" Gilliom several
years ago and still use it today.  In my case, I followed the
instructions explicitly, and built the spine out of solid maple - it's
pretty sturdy.  However, it will still pull when I attempt to tension up
the blade to the point where I would like it to be for resawing, so my
resawing is somewhat limited.  Since I don't use the bs for production
work, only occasional use as an amateur hobbyist, it serves the purpose
rather well.  I have to agree, however, with one of the other comments
you recieved, that I might have been just as well off buying a
commercial unit with a smaller throat.  Hard to say. I like the 18".


Regards,
Todd

---
 . OLX 2.2 . Being over the hill makes it easier to run.
From: tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: CAREFUL WITH THAT PROPELLER!!!!
Date: 27 Aug 92 05:07:56 GMT
Distribution: world, na, usa
Organization: University of Arizona UNIX Users Group


Three is a new (?) product out called the "vertical panel raising" router bit.
Instead of being 3.5 inches in dia,  it is 1.75 inches long and .75 in dia.
Obviously the surface velocity at the outer edges is much less for this bit.
With the big bit you run the router over the panel vertically, at a 90 deg
angle to the face of the panel.  With the "vertical panel raising" bit, 
you set the router up in a jig horizonatally, and run the panel under the bit.
The axis of the bit is parallel to the face of the panel. You get the 
same profile.   

Just proves that there is more than one way to rout a cat !!!
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 31 Aug 1992 09:31:57 EDT
From:         dave talaga x2752 <talaga@E5SB.OSDHW.SYR.GE.COM>
Subject:      Re: CAREFUL WITH THAT PROPELLER!!!!
X-To:         WOODWORK%IPFWVM.BITNET@pucc.princeton.edu

> On the subject of variable speed for routers, I purchased a Bosch 3HP
> plunge router before Bosch introduced their variable speed model and
> would like to make it variable speed. I've seen a couple of variable
> speed controls on the market. Any experiences with these units,
> particularly with higher amperage routers?
>
> Gary Betz
>

I too purchased the Bosch 1611 and purchased the variable speed controller
 (can't remember the brand off-hand) that sells for 39.95.  It is capable of
 controlling loads up to 15 amps, has a 3 prong plug at the top, a switch for
 variable speed and normal operations, and a large dial on the front with
 readings from 0 to 100% of power.

This thing does control the power (rpm) output of the router to a point.  There
 is no way of telling how fast the bit is actually revolving since you're using
 % of power and not rpms.  I have found that it can't start the router unless
 the dial is around the 60% range, and then you can back it down to the 40-50%
 range before the router stops.  I have never tried using the router with the
 speed control so low and find I generally use it around 80 %.  Again, it is
 impossible to tell what the rpm of the spindle is and so you use it by "feel"
 (every time I use it I try to think of a way of calibrating the scale to rpms,
 then I think about selling the router and buying one with built in speed
 control).  Also, it seems to me that 100%  power does not equate to the power
 it seems to have plugged into the wall (highly unscientific since it's all by
 the sound the router produces--in fact, sound=feel when setting this up).

I use this in my table for stile/rail bits mostly and various other bits that
 tend to take big bites (straight bits for dadoes, bullnose, slot cutters),but
 have yet to use one of the "propellers" that I've read about.  Frankly, for
 most applications, I can't imagine using the 1611 without it, and I would never
 by another router without speed control built in, but I wonder if you get the
 same "control" with this particular, or any other, addon controller as you
 would with a good factory setup.

My recom':  If you're going to keep the router--buy it.

Dave Talaga
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: SUM(sort of) about straightening plywood edges.
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 92 17:09:35 GMT

In article <1992Aug27.132109.15917@sactoh0.sac.ca.us> jhp@sactoh0.SAC.CA.US (Jim H. Puga) writes:

>..................................................  I did have some
>"dips" in the cut but I figured that when I routed, that would alleviate
>the problem(Aside from buying the bigger table, how have you folks managed
>to get around the "moving sheet of plywood, while ripping it" problem?).

Personally, I use a circular saw to cut it in half (or whatever comes
closest to that and still fits in with my project). Half sheets are a
little easier to handle. I don't use jigs, just chalk line, saw horses,
and free-hand cutting. It usually wastes a total of 1/8" of wood.

>BTW, I have the Delta contractor's saw and have another question.  When the
>saw is running, it seems to run smoothly with no problem.  When I turn it
>off, it starts to slow down and everything is ok.  Eventually, something
>appears to get out of balance and the whole saw starts to vibrate.  The
>best comparison I can come up with would be a washer.  When the washer 
>starts its spin cycle, if the clothes are balanced, the washer will come to
>a nice, even stop.  Should the clothes gather on one side while the cycle is
>going, it will start to jump since the tub is out of balance(I hope this
>makes things clearer).  Anyway, is this a problem with my saw(if it is,
>what's wrong and how do I fix it) or is just a quirk of every saw?

Well, it's not a quirk of my Grizzly, and I don't recall my old Delta
motorized saw doing this either. Have you tried changing blades?

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | If you always tell the truth, you never
                    | have to remember what you said.
                    |                        Samuel Clemens
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: kroth@sunshine.Kodak.COM (David Kroth)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Need advice on a rota-hammer
Date: 28 Aug 92 14:11:54 GMT
Article-I.D.: kodak.1992Aug28.141154.29460
Distribution: usa
Organization: Eastman Kodak Co., Rochester, NY


I rented a Bosch rotary hammer once.  I was drilling a 2" diameter
hole in a 10" poured concrete wall (I was running an underground
conduit out to the garage to wire it for 220v.  Lots of tool
possibilities out there now. :).  The drill worked very well.  I
was able to get through the wall in about 15 minutes.  Drill rental
was $25 for the day.  I rented on saturday so I could have kept it
till monday with no extra charge.

Later, I saw the same drill in the tools on sale catalog.  It went
for ~$550.  Drill bits are extra (I gotta believe that a 2" x 12"
carbide/concrete drill bit is not cheap).

Anyway, my point is this.  There are plenty of tools on the market
that will do what you want, but you might want to consider renting
if you know you are not going to use it much.  You might also be able
to rent more tool than your pocketbook is able to buy.


Dave Kroth
kroth@acadia.kodak.com
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Organization: University of NC at Greensboro
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Thu, 27 Aug 1992 13:54:42 -0400
From:         Steve Mosier <MOSIER@UNCG.BITNET>
Subject: Re: SUM(sort of) about straightening plywood edges

> the problem(Aside from buying the bigger table, how have you folks managed
> to get around the "moving sheet of plywood, while ripping it" problem?).
> As noted in my earlier message, that didn't go to well as the router bit
> chipped out the veneer and did a pretty louse job of routing.
>
> Most of the suggestions I received said to make the accurate cut the first
> time(see above for problem).  Others said I could plane the edges down
> or sand them.  I'll have to see which one works.  Thanks to all who

Well, there are times when you just can't make the cut right the first time.  I
sometimes have to run a full sheet of plywood through my saw (I use a Bieiemyer
fence) and because of the weight distribution or something I get little pockets
where I'm not perfectly happy.  So I clamp a straight edge down the piece
(using a long door jamb level) and route it flat/straight.  The bit you use is
important, though.  I have a Bosch super-sharp spiral carbide bit that I
bought for cutting out appliance holes in kitchen counters that cuts very well
without messing up the veneer edge.  I don't have to do this very often -- most
of the time the cut is OK.  But every once in a while I cut something that has
to have an absolutely PERFECT edge and then I allow enough to route to the
line.

steve - W3GRG
mosier@uncg.bitnet
mosier@iris.uncg.edu
From: erickson@taurus.cs.nps.navy.mil (David Erickson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Brass Dip Cleaners
Date: 3 Sep 92 20:36:15 GMT
Reply-To: erickson@cs.nps.navy.mil (David Erickson)
Organization: Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey CA

In article <9uqaqB2w165w@tribiet.maintech.com> jocon@tribiet.maintech.com (Joe Connors) writes:
>        I have a great deal of brass hardware from furniture
>pieces that is coated with tarnish and grime. As the pieces are
>intricate, and it would be tedious cleaning and polishing all the
>detail areas, I am looking for a dip that will do the work for
>me. I would appreciate any leads or products or chemical
>solutions you might know of. Thanks!

I used to make up some brass dip using a recipe from the Handbook of
Chemistry and Physics in the Arts & Recipes section.  I don't know
if it is in the current editions, but if you can find an older edition,
the recipe is there.  It used concentrated HCl and H2SO4, I believe.
Sorry about being so vague, but it has been about 20 yrs since I
had a need for it.

-Dave Erickson
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU