Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles
Subject: rec.motorcycles FAQ of 93.01.01    (Part 4 of 5)
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 10 Jan 93 04:44:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


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Q:  I have a 1973 Kawasaki Z-1.  My owner's manual says it should run
    premium leaded fuel.  Will it hurt the engine to run unleaded?
    The local shop says they need to install hardened valve seats
    for $400.

A:  Your Kawasaki already *has* hardened valve seats.  Engines with
    aluminum cylinder heads must have seat inserts, as aluminum is not
    a suitable seat material.  Someone is trying to rip you off.

                          =====================

Q:  The battery in my ZX-10 died.  I can get a generic replacement for
    $43 or a no-maintenance "gel-cell" battery for $82.  Is the gel-cell
    worth it?

A:  I have no idea.  Let's see what the rec.motoids have to say.


*** Lights:

Q:  I've seen ads for light modulators that flash the headlight and
    brake light.  Are these really useful?  Should I buy one?

A:  In general, no.  Many states and municipalities prohibit flashing
    lights (other than turn signals) except on authorized emergency
    vehicles.  Check your local laws before you buy.  Even if you're
    legal at home you still might pick up a ticket elsewhere.

    Flashing lights often infuriate cagers, who will then mess with
    you.  Generally, the cagers win.

    The flashing is also *very* bad for halogen bulbs.  Expect your
    headlight life to be significantly decreased.


*** Personal Equipment:

Q:  I'm considering the purchase of a new helmet.  The one I have
    doesn't feel too good for some reason, even though it's the right
    size.  How can I tell when a helmet fits right?

A:  First off, helmet sizes are like shoe sizes - they're only a general
    guideline.  Don't expect a size 8 to be the same size from two
    different manufacturers.

    Every brand of helmet is shaped differently inside.  Of each brand,
    most models are also different.  The only way to find a properly
    fitting helmet is to cruise the local shops and start trying them
    on.  Try ALL of them on, not just the expensive or pretty ones.
    Proper fit is more important than gaudy stripes or fancy
    certification.  A properly fitting DOT-rated helmet is safer than
    a badly fitting Snell-rated helmet.

    The helmet should fit snugly.  It shouldn't clamp your ears like a
    vise, perch on top of your head like a ferret wearing a coffee cup,
    or try to cave in your forehead.  It shouldn't have any loose areas
    either.  As long as the chin bar doesn't try to move your jaw back
    to your ears you're OK; in some helmets you're not *supposed* to be
    able to touch the chin bar.  Even mild pressure can cause pain in
    the jaw and ears after a few hours.

    Many newer-design helmets have extensive padding in the cheek
    area.  This padding can cause interference with glasses.  You can
    sometimes get the cloth liner loose and cut reliefs with a razor
    blade.  You can also pull the liner loose and add extra foam to
    adjust the fit in any loose areas.  It's not a good idea to try to
    cut the styrofoam section away to adjust the fit - find a different
    helmet.

    Some people get upset at the idea of altering the fit of their
    helmet.  The decision is up to you.

                          =====================

Q:  The wind and engine noise from my bike get to me after a while.  Is
    it safe to wear earplugs when I'm riding?

A:  I've never had a problem.  I keep a couple sets of cheap foam plugs
    in my bike's storage compartment; when I expect a ride to last more
    than half an hour or so I put them in.  They lessen the noise a lot
    without blocking out sirens or screeching brakes.

    In some states it is legal to drive if you're deaf, but not if you
    are wearing earplugs.  Check your local laws.

                          =====================

Q:  What's a good buy for a leather jacket?

A:  ronen@gg.caltech.edu  writes:

    Things to look for in a leather jacket:

    OVERALL SUMMARY:
    - Thick leather is a must.  This is what makes the difference
      between a motorcycle jacket and a fashion jacket.

    Protection:
    - Thick leather: heavy motorcycle leather (not "fashion" weight)
                     3-3.5oz weight or ~1-1.3mm thickness
    - Elbow pads
    - Shoulder pads

    Cut & Fit:
      up your back or the sleeves sliding up and leaving a gap at
      the wrist.
        - Sleeves really long
        - Back should feel a little "hunch-backed" when standing upright
          (more important on sport bikes than cruisers)
    - Try it sitting on the bike.
    - Fits closely in the forearms (sleeves zippered)
    - Down only to hips if you dislike bunching up that longer
      touring gear does.

    - Make sure to leave room inside the jacked for sweaters & such.
    - Don't buy anything you haven't tried on [conflicts w/ later
      suggestions for buying mail order]

    Comfort/Convenience:
    - Zipper front
    - Flap behind zipper to keep out the cold
    - High collar
    - Snap-down collar to keep it from slapping your cheek/neck
    - Vents (zippered) to let in air during summer; grommets at armpits
    - Removable (zip out) lining
    - Zippers at wrists to keep sleeves from sliding up (while you're
      sliding down the road)
    - Lower back support panel for when you fall down.
    - Stiff leather won't flap in the wind.
    - (Tie a leather thong through hole in zipper tab for easy zipping
      w/gloves)

    Durability:
    - Full-grain hides are preferred for repeated abrasion resistance,
      but split or top grain will probably work the first time you
      fall down.
    - Double-stitching

    Where to buy cheap:
    - Sears surplus outlet
    - J.C. Whitney catalog
    - Mail-order places (see ads in riding magazines)
    - Pawn shops
    - Check police stations for Highway Patrol officers wanting to
      sell used gear.

    (If calling used/pawn/surplus stores: Try to get as much info as
    possible over the phone.  Give your size, etc.  Be sure to say
    motorcycle jacket, otherwise they will say "Sure, come on over
    we've a fur lined brown leather coat and a pair of disco leather
    patch pants.")

    Miscellaneous:
    - [The MSF course I took emphasized comfort first, protection
      second -- being uncomfortable increases the likelihood of an
      accident, and it's most important to decrease that likelihood.
      Next important is protection, so that if an accident does happen,
      the damage is minimized.  Discomfort includes too hot, too cold,
      too wet, too dry.]

    - Get a jacket you really like (off the bike too); if you're like
      a lot of folks, you'll wear it all the time anyway.

    - Don't worry about stiffness; some new jackets need to break in.

    - Hein Gericke jackets have it all, if you're willing to pay the
      price.  Sometimes discounters may have them cheaper than most
      dealerships.

                          =====================

Q:  Is there anything that will clean a face-shield and also remove
    abrasions so that one can see through it better?

A:  blgardne@javelin.sim.es.com (Blaine Gardner)  replies:

    What you want are Meguiar's Mirror Glaze Plastic Polish and Plastic
    Cleaner. They are very mild abrasives meant to remove scratches from
    plastic. For fine scratches just use the Polish, for bigger ones
    start with the Cleaner and finish with the Polish. The stuff is $5-8
    bucks per bottle at most auto or motorcycle parts stores. Don't
    choke over the price too much, since both bottles will probably last
    you 10 years. The stuff works great on plastic watch "crystals" and
    compact discs too.

(continued on next rock)