HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Effects of compression ration increase on HP
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 13 Oct 92 17:58:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


->      from what we've shown before, this can be figured out for the
->      Carnot cycle, mep = Wnet/(V3-V1)

 The reason this doesn't work well is that Otto cycle engines are
expansion engines, not heat engines.  The heat from combustion adds an
extra fillip, but your bread and butter is the change of pressure as the
fuel/air mixture is burned.

 If you *really* want to see some fairy constants and fudging, take a
look at one of the treatises that tries to treat firearms as heat
devices.  <grin>

=======================================================================
WARNING:  Certain ideas expressed above are contrary to concepts often
          found in engineering texts.  Said texts are full of it, IMHO.
=======================================================================
                                             
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: louise@pravda.cc.gatech.edu (FA) 
Subject: Re: Any harm if I put too much engine oil?
Reply-To: louise@pravda.cc.gatech.edu (Louise Penberthy) 
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology 
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 19:21:27 GMT

In article <24850018@hpgrla.gr.hp.com> ronk@hpgrla.gr.hp.com (Ron King) writes:
>   You may not have a problem at all.  You did not mention anything about
>changing the filter too!  If you changed the filter, added oil, and then 
>checked the level before starting the engine the level will be ok.  The 
>empty filter will hold half a quart!

Depends on the filter.  Mine holds about a cup.

-- Louise Penberthy

Louise Penberthy                |  "A student came to me with a desire to know
College of Computing/ Georgia   |   the time, and I told her how to make a 
Tech/ Atlanta, GA 30332         |   watch."
louise@pravda.cc.gatech.edu     |        -- Chris, NEXP:Northwest Passages
From: beaubien@hardy.u.washington.edu (Scott deBeaubien)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Radiator flushing
Date: 15 Oct 92 18:56:28 GMT
Article-I.D.: u.1992Oct15.185628.4927
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle

In article <718604084.F00001@blkcat.UUCP> Frank Mallory writes:

>> BA> If anybody out there has experience with this chemical (or any other
>> BA> radiator
>> BA> flushing/cleaning chemical), I'd appreciate reading your opinions.

>Put in a big bottle of Mr. Clean along with the super radiator flush.

SORRY!   I'm not about to go playing amateur chemistry set in my radiator!
From: norcott_bill@tandem.com (Bill Norcott)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Ford Tempo '86 problem
Date: 16 Oct 92 18:04:05 GMT
Reply-To: norcott_bill@tandem.com (Bill Norcott)
Organization: Tandem Computers, Inc.

In article <1992Oct15.191011.15356@tandem.com>, norcott_bill@tandem.com (Bill Norcott) writes:
|> In article <Bw4IK8.34@acsu.buffalo.edu>, C058SJLX@ubvm.cc.buffalo.edu writes:
|> |> 
|> |>    This car has a EFI system .  Two years ago it had the controler
|> |>   computer replaced (the car was recalled by the dealer).
|> |>     Now the car has a (I believe) related problem.  When the engine
|> |>  is cold the car runs OK.  After driving for about 15-20 minutes,
|> |>  when the engine warms-up, the engine runs irregularly and then
|> |>  it stalls.  After that I have to restart the engine at every stop.
|> 
|> Sounds like the oxygen sensor may be going or gone.  It is what 
|> controls the fuel/air mixture to the injector once the engine has
|> warmed up and has gone from open loop (idle mode) to closed loop
|> operation.  I have an '87 Topaz with the same engine.  I am thinking
|> about changing my oxygen sensor.  I was having similar problems 
|> before with the drivability when warm but fixed it by setting the
|> idle air speed adjustment screw to make it richer.  But this means
|> that when cold you have to hold down the gas for a minute after a
|> cold start.  The poor power on hills & stalling points to a too lean
|> mixture, so the O2 sensor may be bad. 
|> 

To follow up, I replaced the oxygen sensor on my Topaz yesterday at
~83,000 miles.   Following this I re-adjusted the idle speed 
adjustment screw so the car again starts on the first turn of the
key and no longer stalls -- this let more air in but leaned-out the
mixture when the car warms up.  Previously, I had seen erratic idle
and loss of power when the car warmed up.   With the new O2 sensor
the problem is completely fixed, i.e. the cold starts are perfect,
and the warm-engine driveability problems have vanished.  For the
first time in the year I've owned it, the cold starts and warm
engine driveability are perfect.  It also solves a mystery which I
was unable to completely diagnose until I read the ongoing thread
about oxygen sensors.  On Fords, the sensor has a LOT to do with
engine performance but it the engine CPU does not detect its failure,
i.e. no engine codes for it.  It was a pain in the neck to get to
though, I had to raise up the car on ramps to get at the thing and
jam my hand in there to get at it.

-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------|
Bill Norcott			GUARDIAN POSIX project
Tandem Computers, Inc.		
10600 N. Tantau Avenue		PHONE:  (408) 285-3253
Cupertino, CA   95014		EMAIL: norcott_bill@tandem.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bohdan@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (bohdan.l.bodnar)
Subject: Radiator flushing
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 13:53:27 GMT
Keywords: Prestone's "Super Flush"

The cooling system I'm contemplating using Prestone's "Super Flush" on doesn't
have rust and has been backflushed using the $5 backflushing kit that Prestone
makes.  This backflushing removed a tremendous amount of corrosion byproducts
(look like small flakes of tarnished metal), but hasn't appreciably cleaned the
radiator.  The radiator has corrosion deposits in it (they're visible with the
radiator's cap removed).  The basic question is:  will something like "Super
Flush" remove these deposits?

If anybody out there has experience with this chemical (or any other radiator
flushing/cleaning chemical), I'd appreciate reading your opinions.

Regards,

Bohdan Bodnar
AT&T Bell Laboratories
Naperville, IL 60566
USA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Re: Oh dear oh dear... (Was Re: Carb Questions)
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 20:21:27 GMT

In article <ldb9ahINN2j8@utkcs2.cs.utk.edu>, bhhardy@cs.utk.edu (Barbara Hardy) writes:
|> 
|> Well, UTKCS2 is finally back up, and I just caught up on the
|> conversations re: carbs. Thank you, thank you for all the help!
|> 
|> I have another question (argh! they yelped!)
|> 
|> Last Monday, right after having watched the depressing trouncing of
|> Dallas by Philly, I was driving home. Car running great. Then,
|> suddenly, with no warning at all! The speedometer slides to the left.
|> Hell, I think. I gear down, it pops back momentarily, and then resumes
|> it's downward spiral, to end at zero thereby leaving me on a dark road
|> alone at one am. My worst dream realized. 
|> 
|> The mystery: it will start beautifully, and run, too, until the car
|> begins to warm up a little (i.e. the choke begins to open), and then
|> it acts as if it cannot get enough gas. If I am driving it, it
|> stutters forward (I'm sitting here trying to figure out how to put
|> down that jerking/rRR rRR rRR feeling/sound. I guess anyone who has
|> ever run out of gas knows what I mean.) At rest, it finally dies no
|> matter how much I try to preempt that with the accelerator pumping.
|> 
|> Anyone got a clue? I've done the spraycarbcleanerlookingfor leaks, but
|> the idle is so unstable that there is really no way to be completely
|> sure. THere are not HUGE leaks, though I am pretty sure, since when it
|> first starts the idle is quite high and stable, and I sprayed then. Of
|> course once it begins to warm up the idle is entirely unreliable.
|> 
|> A friend suggested that the timing may have slipped. ANy opinions? 

What kind of car? Engine?  I once had a Ford with a temperature sensitive
ignition module.  The car would just not run at a certain temperature.
Appeared to be an intermittent connection inside.  Replacing the module
made it go away for good.

Mark
From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Radiator flushing
Date: Thu, 08 Oct 1992 18:18:45 -0500

 BA> If anybody out there has experience with this chemical (or any other 
 BA> radiator
 BA> flushing/cleaning chemical), I'd appreciate reading your opinions.

Put in a big bottle of Mr. Clean along with the super radiator flush.



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: david@cerberus.bhpese.oz.au (David Masters)
Subject: Re: Fuel Injection Question
Organization: BHP, Newcastle, Australia
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 05:29:06 GMT

welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty) writes:

>In article <1992Oct02.162038.36019@lobo.rmhs.colorado.edu> seanr@lobo.rmhs.colorado.edu (Sean Reifschneider) writes:
>>In article <92275.78610.J066610@LMSC5.IS.LMSC.LOCKHEED.COM> J066610@LMSC5.IS.LMSC.LOCKHEED.COM writes:
>>>Does anyone out there know if there is the equivalent of a choke (cold
>>>start vavle ???) for fuel injected cars?  I have been trying to narrow

>>Yes, they do have a cold start system, but it depends on what kind of FI
>>system you have.  One of the Bosch systems (can't remember which one) has
>>an 'aux. air valve) that has a heater element in it.  The heater heats an
>>element that closes the AAV when it gets warm.  If the heater element in
>>it has died, it would act as you describe.

>normally this circuit is in two parts; there is a `thermo time' switch
>which signals whether or not there is a need for cold start enrichment,
>and there is a cold start injector which dumps extra fuel into the
>air intake plenum.  both the older Bosch D and the more current Bosch L
>and Bosch Motronic systems are set up in roughly this fashion.  the
>cold start injectors rarely fail; the thermo time switches are more
>likely to go.

er, yes, but there is another way. Some systems handle it all
within the normal FI system, and put more fuel out of the normal
injectors. Bosch Motronic as used on TwinSpark 2l Alfa motors is
an example. It means less parts, but more complexity in the chip.

>richard
>-- 
>richard welty                            518-393-7228
>welty@cabot.balltown.cma.com
>  ``if you can read this, mario, you're too close''
>    -- bumper sticker seen on a CART safety truck

david

-- 
David Masters, Group Leader - UNIX, 
BHP Information Technology, Newcastle, AUSTRALIA.
Internet: david@bhpese.oz.au        	     Phone: +61 49 402132
From: monson@hpsad.sad.hp.com (Tom Monson)
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 13:26:01 GMT
Subject: Re: Open Letter to Mitsubishi
Organization: HP Signal Analysis Division - Rohnert Park, CA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

I'm not trying to be a wiseass, but are you sure these bolts aren't left-hand
thread?  I've run into these on differentials, not flywheels, but 160 ft-lbs
seems like it should have done the trick.
                                             Good luck,
                                                        Curious Tom...
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
From: hasch@jhunix.hcf.jhu.edu (Tsuma Kavazi)
Subject: Synthetic oil cost and convenience
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Reply-To: roskar@kavazi.uucp.jhu.edu (Tsuma Kavazi)
Organization: Acme Money Launderers, Inc.
     
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 00:12:34 GMT


 
Oh boy. I hope I don't get bashed for bringing this up. Just
soliciting expertise...
 
For about the same amount of money, the main dillema is: IS IT
BETTER OR WORSE FOR THE ENGINE and it's longevity to go with
option 2)? (see below)
 
The car is a Honda Accord EX, driven 150 miles a day, 90% on
highway at about 2800 RPMs. So far I've been using multigrade
5W-30 (recc. by Honda), Castrol GTX brand. Changing this oil once
a month means I do ca. 3500 miles between oil changes.
 
I've been considering switching to Mobil 1, and changing the oil
every 7000 miles, to help offset higher cost, and spend less time
under the car :-)
 
    Oil     Cost/Change      Filter             Monthly Cost
1) Castrol   ( 4.40      +   4.00)    * 1 =       $ 8.40
2) Mobil 1   (14.00      +   4.00)    *.5 =       $ 9.00
 
Input is greatly appreciated.



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mfolivo@sactoh0.sac.ca.us (Mark Newton-John)
Subject: Re: TRX tires.
Organization: Sacramento Public Access Unix
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 92 16:09:36 GMT

In <YepTTJ_00j_jA7niMF@cs.cmu.edu> Dale.James@cs.cmu.edu writes:

>Due to some stupidity on my part, I find myself in possession of two nearly-
>new 165-70R365 Michelin TRX snow tires.  I have no idea what cars use these
>tires as original equipment, or an appropriate netnews forum on which to try
>selling them.
>Any help most certainly appreciated.

TRX Michelin tires were used on a variety of Ford cars, mainly the
Mustang/Capri and the Escort 2-seater (name?)/LN7.

They require a special TRX wheel, and they are sized so that you
cannot install TRX tires on regular wheels because of the special
sidewall and bead design.

Michelin still sells TRX tires for the owners of Ford/Mercurys that
use them. I do not know if anyone makes replacement TRX wheels, but
I'm sure you can find them in the paper or at a dismantler.


-- 
#############################################################
# Scaramento Public Access UNIX     sactoh0.SAC.CA.US       #  
#  (916) 649-0161, 722-6516 & 722-5068    E-Mail & USENET   #
################## default .signature file ##################
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: johnson@wrs.com (David Johnson)
Subject: Re: DOHC on a V8 possible?
Organization: Wind River Systems, Inc.
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 08:50:00 GMT

dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) writes:
> Unfortunately, the '84-up Corvette IRS isn't all that great.  The

> On a rough course, an F-body or Mustang can usually take a late
>Corvette.  The advantages of lower unsprung weight don't quite make up
>for sucko geometry.
>
Pardon me Dave, but I have certainly not seen the f-body and mustange
magic.  Do you mean rough road-course or the Baja 1000?

At any auto-x I go to there are a couple of each, and none (read NONE)
can get close the the vettes.  Now on "rough" road courses the
vette doesn't slouch either.  Well, do you consider 7 and 8 at 
Laguna Seca rough?  I do, and I've seen vettes, stangs, and camaros
all through there.  The vettes do significantly better than the other
two. Now, the vette's susp. geom. certainly has some shortcomings but
if you take the "area under the curve" the vettes comes out the winner,
at least from what I've SEEN.  

DAVE (johnson@wrs.com)


DAVE (johnson@wrs.com)
From: sheriffp@Software.Mitel.COM (Peter Sheriff)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: TURBO COUPE'S OUT THERE?
Date: 9 Oct 92 12:35:15 GMT
Organization: Mitel. Kanata (Ontario). Canada.





          How quaint. What's a turbo coupe? Sounds like a fast chicken
house.

                                     Pete
From: avk@hafnium.cchem.berkeley.edu (Tony Konashenok)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: electronic rustproofing.
Date: 14 Oct 1992 23:31:42 GMT
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
NNTP-Posting-Host: hafnium.cchem.berkeley.edu

In article <1992Oct15.083544.164777@dstos3.dsto.gov.au> pzh@myna.dsto.gov.au (Paul Heuer) writes:
>These ways of electronically rustproofing vehicles sound too simple to be
>true. Does anybody have any _long term_ experience with these methods? If these
>methods really work, WHY THE FISH DON'T CAR MAKERS USE THESE @#$%! TRICKS. I
>suppose they don't want their cars to last too long, eh?
>
THEY DO! Volvo (or was it SAAB? or both?) uses zinc-plated sheet metal in
their cars. It is exactly the same - the steel does not rust until *all*
zinc is gone. I don't guarantee, however, that this is true for all 
model-years.

-- 
Tony Konashenok   avk@hafnium.cchem.berkeley.edu   (510)527-7524 (home)
University of California, Berkeley                 (510)642-5831 (office)

Strauss research group, Latimer Hall, UC Berkeley, Berkeley CA 94720, U.S.A.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: pfeffer@convex.com (Rick Pfeffer)
Subject: Maint required light
Summary: I need to know how to trun this off
Keywords: Dodge Caravan
Organization: CONVEX Computer Corporation, Richardson, Tx., USA
Distribution: rec
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 14:49:06 GMT
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by a user at CONVEX Computer
              Corp. The opinions expressed are those of the user and
              not necessarily those of CONVEX.

Does anyone out there know how to turn off the Maint Req'r light
on a 90 dodge caravan?? It came on around 60K miles. The Dealer
won't help. It runs fine. The dealer said it's for checking
the Emession(sp) stuff...

Thanks

Send email or post if you know..

Rick Pfeffer

--
Rick Pfeffer
214-497-4821
From: spidell@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 16:13:42 GMT
Subject: Re: New inexpensive pre-oiler
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

WRT:

>Sorry, but not totally true.  McDonnell-Douglas (a major engine owner 
>and builder) has a study that found that as much as 80% of total engine 

A slight nit to pick: McDonnell-Douglas builds aircraft and other 
aerospace products.  They do not, to my knowledge, build any sort of
engine.  Their aircraft are usually powered by GE, Pratt & Whitney or
Rolls-Royce engines.  They probably own a large auto fleet, perhaps you
were referring to some sort of maintenance study of this fleet?

regards,
bs
From: bhhardy@cs.utk.edu (Barbara Hardy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Oh dear oh dear... (Was Re: Carb Questions)
Date: 9 Oct 92 15:29:21 GMT
Organization: Computer Science Dept, University of Tennessee, Knoxville


Well, UTKCS2 is finally back up, and I just caught up on the
conversations re: carbs. Thank you, thank you for all the help!

I have another question (argh! they yelped!)

Last Monday, right after having watched the depressing trouncing of
Dallas by Philly, I was driving home. Car running great. Then,
suddenly, with no warning at all! The speedometer slides to the left.
Hell, I think. I gear down, it pops back momentarily, and then resumes
it's downward spiral, to end at zero thereby leaving me on a dark road
alone at one am. My worst dream realized. 

The mystery: it will start beautifully, and run, too, until the car
begins to warm up a little (i.e. the choke begins to open), and then
it acts as if it cannot get enough gas. If I am driving it, it
stutters forward (I'm sitting here trying to figure out how to put
down that jerking/rRR rRR rRR feeling/sound. I guess anyone who has
ever run out of gas knows what I mean.) At rest, it finally dies no
matter how much I try to preempt that with the accelerator pumping.

Anyone got a clue? I've done the spraycarbcleanerlookingfor leaks, but
the idle is so unstable that there is really no way to be completely
sure. THere are not HUGE leaks, though I am pretty sure, since when it
first starts the idle is quite high and stable, and I sprayed then. Of
course once it begins to warm up the idle is entirely unreliable.

A friend suggested that the timing may have slipped. ANy opinions? 

Oh my oh my.....

Barbara
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 00:54:02 EDT
From: <YXW1@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: PLYMOUTH RELIANT POWER STEERING PUMP

The power steering pump in my 88 Plymouth Reliant needs to be replaced
because of a leak through the shaft seal. It looks like there is no room
to get the pump out after it is removed from the mount. There are two tubes
running across above the pump. I think they are fuel lines. I don't see
any room under the pump either. The manual I have says that the pump should be
pulled out from the top but that manual refers to carbureted engine. My
car has a 2.2 fuel injected engine. I hate to touch those fuel lines. I wonder
if anyone with experience removing power steering pump from FI K-car can tell
me how to get this job done. Thank you for your help.

                                               Yong Wang
From: jimv@hienergy.Eng.Sun.COM (Jim Vienneau  - Sun Microsystems)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Help Me: Synthetics - The Final Word
Date: 7 Oct 1992 18:49:25 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Mt. View, Ca.
NNTP-Posting-Host: hienergy.east.sun.com

In article <1992Oct7.132539.24389@kong.gsfc.nasa.gov> vesper@kong.gsfc.nasa.gov writes:
>What is the best oil to run in a high performance engine?
>...
>Some definitive feedback would be helpful, preferably from someone who's torn  
>some engines apart and has seen the long term effects of synthetics.
>
>Thanks,
>
>-Greg.
>

The best oil to use is the one *YOU* feel the most comfortable with. You'll
get lots of opinions here, but they're just that, *OPINIONS*. The same goes
for slick50, tufoil, and all the others. There is just no right answer for 
this. (but I'd bet a million dollars it will be asked again, and again, and
again...).

--
Jim Vienneau, Sun Microsystems Inc - Billerica, MA
Email: jvienneau@east.sun.com   Amateur Radio: WB1B
Good old Ma Bell (well old anyway): (508)671-0372
From: dye@i88.isc.com (Ken R. Dye )
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Error Codes (was: Re: GM diagnostic harness)
Date: 12 Oct 92 15:23:43 GMT
Article-I.D.: i88.1992Oct12.152343.20215
Organization: INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation, Naperville, IL

In article <1992Oct9.200458.6036@den.mmc.com> pschauer@evans.den.mmc.com (Paul Schauer) writes:
>I saw this thread over in sci.electronics. Forgive me if this is a
>FAQ for this news group, but does anyone have the error codes for Chrysler?
>My '88 turbo Shadow has an error code 15, and I would like to know what it
>means!

	"Vehicle Speed Sensor"....the error is flagged when it
registers  less than 2 MPH when the computer thinks the car is
moving.  It is monitered "over a 7 second period during deacceleration
from highway speeds when the throttle is closed".

--Ken

-- 
Ken R. Dye				an optimist is a guy		 |
Interactive Systems Corp., Chicago	that has never had		 | 
(800) LAI-UNIX x341			much experience			 |
dye@i88.isc.comm						archy	 |