HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: Charging A/C with Freon
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 92 06:18:12 GMT

jbm@eos.arc.nasa.gov (Jeffrey Mulligan) writes:
: ghg@en.ecn.purdue.edu (George Goble) writes:
: 
: >The largest single source of leaking CFCs are automobile A/C units.
: >The world's 225 million A/C cars each leak around 1/2 lb of CFC-12
: >each year on the average.  The industrial solvent and foam blowing
: >sectors have pretty much cleaned up their act by now.
: >--ghg
: 
: What about large air-conditioned buildings?
: Are service personnel now required to recover all freon when servicing
: these large units as they are with auto units?
: 
As I understand it, stationary units are not nearly as guilty as those in
cars, possibly because they operate under better conditions, e.g. MUCH less
vibration, more constant temperature-band, and so-on.  Seals don't deteriorate
as badly in stationary units.  

One complaint....I know of no DECENT replacement for Freon when troubleshooting
thermal electrical problems...anybody?

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - you get what you pay for; you pay for what you get.
hinz@picard.med.ge.com


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: (Eric Youngblood)
Subject: Re: Oil Drain Plug Is Stuck
Keywords: oil car
Reply-To: Peon w/o Email priv (Eric Youngblood)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Richardson, Tx
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1992 19:59:38 GMT

In article <1992Jul27.152113.1691@hubcap.clemson.edu>, jayc@hubcap.clemson.edu (Jay Crawford) writes:
|> When I went to change my oil in my new car, I realized that when the dealer 
|> serviced it, they must have tightened to oil drain plug too tight, because it
|> just won't budge.  And to make matters worse, the bolt head is starting to 
|> strip.  Any suggestions on how to free this thing up?  I've got a new plug, but
|> can't get the old one out!  Thanks.
|> 
|> -- 
|> Jay Crawford          
|> jayc@hubcap.clemson.edu

I have yet to meet a bolt that would'nt yield to a pair of big vice grips.
Since you are replacing it anyway, go for it!

You might also wish to point out the oil pan drain plug torque specs in the
dealer's own service manual.

$0.02
Ericy
From: nall@sun8.scri.fsu.edu (John Nall)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Cleaning injectors
Date: 29 Jul 92 18:30:42 GMT
Reply-To: nall@sun8.scri.fsu.edu (John Nall)
Organization: SCRI, Florida State University

In article <1992Jul29.173824.150349@lexmark.com> mollett@lexmark.com (Vic Mollett) writes:
>Has anyone ever cleaned diesel injectors??  Is it the same as cleaning gasoline
>injectors??  My 240D (which has Bosch mechanical fuel injection, but I don't
>know what series) could use some cleaning I think (rougher than normal idle
>sometimes).  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

  I'm not particularly qualified to make suggestions, but what I CAN do is
  pass on some information which I received from a Mercedes mechanic.  I
  bought this old 300D, and struck a deal with him to come over to my house
  on his day off and go through the routine maintenance procedures with me.
  That is, adjusting the valves, changing oil, changing fuel filters, 
  tightening the belts, etc.  A good deal for him, because I paid him to
  watch me, and give advice :-)

  Anyway, during the course of the tutoring session, I mentioned that I had
  heard people say that it would be a good idea just on general principals
  to get the injectors cleaned on a car this old (1977 model).  He said no,
  that unless there was a problem (usually characterized by hard starting)
  that the best thing would be to add some Redline to the fuel every now and
  then, and that would keep the injectors cleaned out pretty well.

  So that is passed on for what it is worth.

John
 

--
"...There's no time.  The nuclear reactor will blow any minute.  I'll have to modify
 the kernel on the fly."   Mitty slid into the analyst's chair and calmly began
 displaying memory locations, changing some of them.  The others watched in
 awe.  The nuclear reactor ominously went "pocketa, pocketa, pocketa..."
From: lihan@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Bruce G. Bostwick)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Oil Drain Plug Is Stuck
Keywords: oil car
Date: 28 Jul 92 17:54:50 GMT
Article-I.D.: ut-emx.76707
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin, Austin TX

In article <1992Jul27.152113.1691@hubcap.clemson.edu> jayc@hubcap.clemson.edu (Jay Crawford) writes:
>When I went to change my oil in my new car, I realized that when the dealer 
>serviced it, they must have tightened to oil drain plug too tight, because it
>just won't budge.  And to make matters worse, the bolt head is starting to 
>strip.  Any suggestions on how to free this thing up?  I've got a new plug, but
>can't get the old one out!  Thanks.

Use these tools in the following order:

1. BOX END (not open end) wrench (six-point if you can get one)
2. pipe wrench (not a crescent and not a pair of Vice-Grips)
3. bite the bullet and drill it for an easy-out.

If you can get it off with the box-end, it might still be serviceable
but inspect the threads closely.  If it takes a pipe wrench or a screw
extractor it's gone for good (and, incidentally, so are the mating
threads in your sump!  make sure they're tapped and helicoiled before
putting the new one in..)  The pipe wrench should get it because they
tighten automatically when you pull so they shouldn't strip the hex
head any more than it already is, although they MURDER the flats.

-- 
<BGB>
lihan@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu        /     "I can't complain,
(really Bruce Bostwick)        /   but sometimes I still do"
from the great state of TEXAS /         --Joe Walsh--
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Oil Drain Plug Is Stuck
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 30 Jul 92 11:14:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * Jacksonville AR USA * 501-985-0059


-> ring spanners

 Would that be what we North Americans refer to as a "box end wrench?"
From: pburke@vms.macc.wisc.edu (Peter Burke, MIC, 608-263-7744)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Charging A/C with Freon
Date: 25 Jul 92 20:59:36 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: University of Wisconsin Academic Computing Center

In article <1992Jul25.154235.29252@en.ecn.purdue.edu>, ghg@en.ecn.purdue.edu (George Goble) writes...

>Hydrocarbons:  Blend of 21% isobutane, 79% propane (by weight)
>	These are flammable, so be careful. I assume no liability
>	if you do this and blow up or burn yourself or others.
>       ....

I may just go ahead and do this - not knowing if the system I am 
charging has a leak or not (bought a used vehicle that had an engine 
swapped in - compressor and every fitting had been disconnected). Sounds 
just like the kind of low-tech solution I have been looking for.  Just 
need to find some adapters now.  I'll let you know if I see some blue 
flames in my engine compartment.


Peter
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: Horsepower is a meaningless advertising term.
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 92 07:47:22 GMT

dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) writes:
: 
: -> I worry about its air-line analog knocking the daylights out of a
: -> large- volume piping system.  No flames intended, and I freely admit
: -> ignorance, but if I were gonna do it, I'd ask a mechanical engineer
: -> first.
: 
:  No flames intended, but how's a mechanical engineer going to know
: either?  He's going to find you're pumping 180psi in tubing rated for
: 400psi, figure you have more than double the capacity for the
: application, and send you a bill.

: 
:  Frankly, I'd be more interested in calling the local building authority
Well, now, everybody seems to be coming up with some VERY good points.   They
seem to be as follows:

1> Underground piping can accumulate water and be a problem.
2> PVC, although rated for 400 PSI, is probably NOT a good idea.
3> piping should slope downhill towards a H2O dump/petcock
4> Building codes, etc. need to be checked into.

OK, as I see it, these are all very good points.  I think I'll use 3/4 or 1 inch
copper, above ground, sweated joints, any comments?  keep the ideas coming,
please!

: and making sure the stuff meets the local building code (if any).
:                                                                                                                 

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
Pherrets are Phun!! 
SAAB - you get what you pay for; you pay (and pay, and pay) for what you get.
hinz@picard.med.ge.com


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: cbh@windsurf.scd.ucar.edu (Cris Hannu)
Subject: Re: Oil Drain Plug Is Stuck
Keywords: oil car
Reply-To: cbh@windsurf.scd.ucar.edu (Cris Hannu)
Organization: NCAR / Scientific Computing Division, Boulder CO.
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 15:48:40 GMT

In article <1992Jul27.152113.1691@hubcap.clemson.edu>, jayc@hubcap.clemson.edu (Jay Crawford) writes:
> When I went to change my oil in my new car, I realized that when the dealer 
> serviced it, they must have tightened to oil drain plug too tight, because it
> just won't budge.  And to make matters worse, the bolt head is starting to 
> strip.  Any suggestions on how to free this thing up?  I've got a new plug, but
> can't get the old one out!  Thanks.
> 
 When the dealer serviced your car, did he actually change the oil?  When new
 cars come out the drain plug isn't lubed initially and can easily bind up.
 I had to use a 6 point socket and a 3 foot breaker bar do loosen the drain
 plug on my 3000 GT!

Cris Hannu 
cbh@windsurf.scd.ucar.edu  
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jimo@navaho.uucp (25656-o'keefe)
Subject: Drivetrain Vibration
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 92 17:09:31 GMT
Keywords: auto, repairs

Any new sugggestions..

I have a 87 Chevy G20 Van with 42K miles.  I bought it three months ago
and have not been able to correct an annoying vibration problem.  The
vibration can be felt though the floor (seat) and occurs at approx. 25
MPH and above 50 MPH.  The vibration at 25-30 usually happens when the 
auto trans upshifts to second and is more noticable under acceleration.
The vibration above 50 MPH is barely detectable and related to vehicle
speed. 

I suspected the drive shaft, of course, and removed the full shaft and had
all bearings replaced (although they seemed ok) and the center support
bearing (bushing was worn allowing shaft play).  This didn't seem to 
have any effect on the problem.  I was careful to reassemble the shaft 
with the correct phase (as illustrated in my shop manual). 

I then took the van to a drive shaft specially shop.  He tested it on 
vehicle by running it in drive with wheels allevated.  He told me that
the shaft ran true (no runout) with no vibration.  He then recommended
that I have the rear-end bearings checked because "the shaft couldn't be
causing the vibration at 25 MPH".

Before the shaft was rebuild, I had the transmission checked-out by a trans
shop.  My local mechanic inspected the motor and transmission mounts and
doesn't think that the vibration can be from the rear ("a bad bearing
would cause a continuous whining sound").

QUESTIONS:

Did the drive shaft shop adequately check-out the shaft?  Could the low
speed vibration be coming from the shaft even though it looked good at
no load?  Could this simply be a poorly balanced shaft?  If not the
shaft,  then what else in the drive train could be causing this
vibation?

Any suggestions would be welcome...

Jim
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Mercedes Mechanic reqd. - Oxford UK.
From: derek@nezsdc.icl.co.nz (Derek Tearne)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 92 22:43:03 GMT
Organization: Fujitsu New Zealand


My brother has a 70's Mercedes Saloon with some hairy carburetter 
problems and a blown head gasket.  

None of the mechanics he has approached seem willing or able to fix either
or these problems.  The carburettor has never been right since the last
mechanic he found that _would_ touch it finished with it!

Now there _must_ be a decent Mercedes mechanic _somewhere_ near Oxford U.K.
so if you know of one could you let me know.

Thanks in advance

Derek Tearne


-- 
Derek Tearne  derek@icl.co.nz or derek@fivegl.co.nz --Fujitsu SDC,Auckland,NZ

My 'self aware' .signature file failed his Turing test.  
It turns out he was just a chess playing midget in a decorative box.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: grinding gears when revving engine at high speed
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 92 10:24:42 GMT

tr@samadams.princeton.edu (Tom Reingold) writes:
: 
: When I rev the engine to nearly redline, shifting to second gear is
: very tricky.  I try to pull the shifter into second, and instead of
: going in, it gives resistance and the transmission makes a very loud
: grinding sound.  What causes this?  More importantly, what is the
: proper way to shift quickly in this situation?

I have, among others, a '88 900 Turbo, which has the same engine (plus turbo,
more or less), but a different tranny.  I drive very aggressively, and haven't
run into this problem.  I use Redline MTL, and change it fairly often
(cheap insurance, y'know).  If you are getting grinding, perhaps you have
worn-out synchros.  What is the history of the car?

I don't know what would be involved in changing the synchro's on the 9000,
but I'd sure try different tranny oil first.  

P.S.  In case anyone wonders, redline on these engines is regulated by
the EFI system at 6000 RPM, so as to eliminate that wonderful olympic sport,
the 'Piston Toss'.

My '71 Saab Sonett III redlines at 8500 RPM.  Does anyone know where I can
get a 4" (10 cm) tach that goes up that high?

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - you get what you pay for; you pay for what you get.
hinz@picard.med.ge.com


From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Cracks in vinyl dash
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 12:22:46 -0500

 NW>         I have an older mercedes that is developing a crack in it's
 NW>         vinyl dash. It's quite small at present and I would like to
 NW>         keep it that way. Any suggestions on how to curtail it's
 NW>         progress would be greatly appreciated.

Probably it's dark blue or black. This is very common, and I don't know anything
you can do about it other than cover the dash whenever your car is parked in the
sunlight.



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel)
Subject: Re: DIY compression meter
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 14:02:14 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division

Instead of reworking a sparkplug I purchased a sparkplug non fouler.
This little gaget is an extender that moves the sparkplug outside
the cylinder to prevent it from fouling when rings or valve seals are
bad.  

I was able to thread a short pipe into the non-fouler in spite of the
threads being different.  Teflon tape prevents it from leaking.

-- 
Howard Rebel hpcsos.col.hp.com 

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mac1@Ra.MsState.Edu (Mubashir Cheema)
Subject: Wanted desperately: Windshield for Datsun 200SX !
Summary: windshield
Keywords: windshield
Organization: Mississippi State University
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 18:51:55 GMT



 First of all let me appologize if this is the wrong group.
 Do you think we should have a group by the name of
 rec.autos.parts.wanted    ???
 
  I needed windshield for my Nissan/Datsun 200SX, model 1982
 Its a liftback. If anyone has one or knows a place I can find
 one at a good price, please let me know.
 Thanx alot in advance.

Mubashir.

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Mubashir Cheema: Computer Engineering student at Mississippi State University.
Amiga User and Star Trek Fan (me too :)
I can be reached at Fax/phone : (601) 324-7324 
Internet : mac1@ra.msstate.edu          Bitnet   : mac1@msstate.bitnet
US mail  : PO Box 4887, MSU             UPS/FedEx: 144 College Station Appts
           MS State, MS 39762-4887                 Starkville, MS 39759 
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: fitchitt@wam.umd.edu ()
Subject: Re: Starting out?
Organization: University of Maryland, College Park
Distribution: rec
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 20:04:57 GMT

In article <tr.712287034@samadams> tr@samadams.princeton.edu (Tom Reingold) writes:
>gss@btcase.bt.co.uk (Graham Sewell) writes:
>
>$ As you have a copy of the Haynes manual, I am assuming that you live in
>$ the UK.  If that is the case, a good book on general theory of cars is
>$ the AA Book Of The Car.
>$ [...]
>
>Amit posted from a Los Angeles (USA) site.  We can get Haynes manuals
>here in the USA.  In fact, I have a Haynes manual that was written in
>Britain for the 1980-1983 US-and-Canada-only Nissan 200SX model.
>Apparently, Haynes sell enough volumes here to justify this cost.
>--
>        Tom Reingold
>        tr@samadams.princeton.edu  OR  ...!princeton!samadams!tr
>        "Warning: Do not drive with Auto-Shade in place.  Remove
>        from windshield before starting ignition."

Really, the Haynes Seems much better, I just chucked my Chilton, (well its in
a corner somewhere) that tries to cover 17 years and 4 Major modeltypes of
"Z" cars its about 10 dierent cars at least 240Z, 260Z 280Z, 280ZX, 300ZX
plus the turbo'ed and unturbo'ed models, some with carburator, some w/o.

It was next to useless for anything. Had no diagrams, and was fairly sketchty
on MANY points. Plus seemed incomplete or lacking on certain things.

Anywya, I see the Haynes manual for the 280ZX ('70-'83) looked through it
a bit, it has COMPLETE CHASSIS WIREING DIAGRAMS! I Immediately bought it
Its great, much, much, much, much better than that worthless Chilton.

 4m3
From: lung@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Terence Lung)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Fun pranks to pull with your car (Was: ++WHICH OIL BEST FOR)
Date: 28 Jul 92 19:54:59 GMT
Reply-To: lung@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Terence Lung)
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

>...The expressions of the drivers passing us was priceless.
>
>Anybody else out there who has some interesting pranks they pull simply to
>enjoy boggling other driver's minds?
> 
>Ted Brooks

Well, before I was old enough to get a driver's license and have my
own car to mess with, the greatest thing to do was to stay up late one 
night and redo the lane lines on a busy stretch of highway so that the 
left lanes kept ending and so that new right lanes kept emerging.  
It's really fun to watch the anarchy and the drivers the next day having 
to keep changing lanes.  The expressions of the frustrated and mind-boggled 
drivers was priceless.

I love doing that.

Terence
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:10257 rec.autos.vw:4377
From: orban@ciit85.ciit.nrc.ca
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.vw
Subject: Cleaning injectors
Date: 28 Jul 92 01:37:38 GMT
Organization: National Research Council

I am in the process of rebuilding the fuel injection on my
'79 Scirocco, which has not been running in the last 5 years.
I have a bunch of injectors which are gummed up. I have also built
an injector cleaner/tester. My question is that what is the best 
solvent to dissolve the gum. I am not thinking of adding it to the
fuel, but forcing it through directly the injectors with the tester.

Thanks, Peter
--
Peter Orban                           | preferred: orban@ciit85.ciit.nrc.ca
National Research Council of Canada   | or: orban@nrcamt.nrc.ca
From: norcott_bill@tandem.com (Bill Norcott)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Manual vs. Auto lifetime
Date: 31 Jul 92 20:23:45 GMT
Reply-To: norcott_bill@tandem.com  (Bill Norcott)
Organization: Tandem Computers, Inc.

I believe the automatic transmission will be cheaper in the long run.

You can expect at least one clutch change over the life of the car,
and maybe two or more.  If you keep the fluid level right and change
the transmission fluid and filter, 150,000 is not unusual for an
automatic.  You may change an automatic transmission once for a high
mileage car, but they can put in a rebuilt one for maybe $500 which
will last as long as you would want to own it.  The manual gearbox
hardly ever go but if they do you will pay through the nose, much more
than for an auto tranmission and it will be harder to find somebody to
do it.

-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------|
Bill Norcott			GUARDIAN POSIX project
Tandem Computers, Inc.		
10600 N. Tantau Avenue		PHONE:  (408) 285-3253
Cupertino, CA   95014		EMAIL: norcott_bill@tandem.com
From: aahsan@pyramid.COM (Agha Ahsan)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Problems with a Mazda MX6
Date: 27 Jul 92 20:34:24 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Pyramid Technology Corporation, Mountain View, California

Do check with other places before going ahead with any repairs.
Over a thousand sounds like too much for steeting tack.
-Agha
From: sew@philabs.philips.com (Scott E. Wakeman)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Professional Detailing Equipment
Date: 28 Jul 92 18:58:42 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Philips Laboratories, Briarcliff Manor, NY.


   Would anyone out there know where I can buy a
 'commercial' buffer/polisher?  I have one made by
 WEN but I would like to purchase a high quality one.

   Also , does anyone know of any automotive detailing
 product distributors(the professional stuff)??? 


    thanks,
    scott    (sew.philabs.philips.com)



  ---> p.s :  I would prefer the orbital type, 10-11"
From: rjwade@rainbow.ecn.purdue.edu (Robert J. Wade)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Timing belt replacement in a Sentra
Date: 23 Jul 92 21:12:28 GMT
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network

In article <25756@life.ai.mit.edu> pwu@amalfi.ai.mit.edu (Peng Wu) writes:
>Timing belt off may or may not cause engine damage depending on the design of
>the engine.  See the following old message for reference:
>
>=======
>All Ford-built engines except the old 1.6L Escort are
>free-wheeling (no damage possible from broken timing belt).
>Note that the newer, 1.9L Escorts are free-wheeling.
>
>Tom Leone <tgl@slee01.srl.ford.com>

what is this 'freewheeling'...if the belt breaks..are the valves not free
to do whatever they want???
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: Compressors & Air Tools
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 92 09:49:33 GMT

genet@hplsla.hp.com (Gene Taylor) writes:
: 
: Because water condenses inside, rusts through, and KBLOOIE!!! it blows up!
: This happened to my father-in-law with a 25-gal unit.  He heard it let go
: in the shop from inside the house 100 yards away.  He's REAL lucky he
: wasn't in the shop when it happened.  How lucky are you feeling?
: 
Question:  I use my compressor mostly on weekends.  At the end of each day of
use, I bleed off the water from the bottom of the tank & the traps in my 
piped-in lines.  If the compressor doesn't kick on again (I turn off the 
breaker to it), there won't be any more condensation, right?  Or, am I
mistaken?  I'd hate to think that I'm causing problems with my compressor.
It just seems to me that if it introduces no new air, no more moisture can
come out of 'solution' in the air?????

  
--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - you get what you pay for; you pay for what you get.
hinz@picard.med.ge.com