Newsgroups: rec.skiing

            The rec.skiing Frequently Asked Questions List
                              -or-
   Everything you always wanted to know about skiing and were *just* about
   to ask by posting.

   The rec.skiing FAQ is a work in progress and is maintained by glen
   baker (glenb@sr.hp.com) Additions and corrections to the FAQ are 
   welcome. If you have an addition or correction to make please take the
   time to write it out in the format of the FAQ so that I don't have
   to try to figure out how to say what you're trying to say!


   ***********************************************************
   *       REALLY IMPORTANT DISCLAIMER STUFF!!               *
   *     -------------------------------------               *
   * The rec.skiing FAQ is a compendium of questions and     *
   * answers that frequently appear on rec.skiing. Neither   *
   * the contributors to the FAQ, the posters of the FAQ,    *
   * nor their employers make any claim whatsoever regarding *
   * the accuracy or safety of ANYTHING in the FAQ. Any item *
   * that may appear to be offering either medical or legal  *
   * advice is doing neither.                                *
   *                                                         *
   ***********************************************************


   Index:
       1) Welcome, Disclaimers, etc
       2) Alpine Equipment
       3) XC equipment/Info
       4) Clothing
       5) Technique
       6) Transportation
       7) Lodging
       8) Phone Numbers
       9) Miscellaneous
      10) Jobs
      11) Summit County
      12) Southern California
      13) Exercises
      14) National Ski Patrol
      15) Europe
      16) Lest we become too serious

 ------------- Section 03: XC equipment/Info -------------

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
XC-FAQ compiled by I Stern with input from H Tran, C Webster, B Barkey,
J Steinman, K Bergeron, J Vallino, E Johnson, R Lipsius, H Grierson,
C Reber, D Bonn, J Sommer, J Knell, and E Miya.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------

 3.01) "What kind of skis should I get?"

   There are various types of skis, each designed for a different style
   of skiing.  Obviously, if you indulge in all of the different styles
   of cross-country skiing, you can easily spend enough on skis to make
   up for all the money you save not buying lift tickets!  

   Cross-country skis have either waxable or waxless bases.  There are
   advantages and disadvantages which can be more or less important,
   depending on the style of ski, but usually you can get any particular
   type of ski with either type of base.

   Base types:
   Waxless: 
     Waxless cross country skis have a "scaled" bottom so that they will
     slide forward and resist backward motion. These skis are a good
     choice for first-timers as they will allow you to concentrate on
     striding, skating, poling, downhilling, and other aspects of technique.
     They are not so good for going up steep hills, or for unpacked
     powder snow.  They are great for snow that packs into a wet blob
     under your skis.
            
   Waxable: 
     These skis require waxing, and proper waxing at that, to be useful.
     Lemon pledge is the recommended wax as you'll be able to see yourself
     but will avoid waxy yellow buildup.  No, really: for starters a two or 
     three wax kit is sufficient (wet snow/dry snow) but other wax systems
     exist where every 10 degree change in temperature requires a different
     wax.  With proper wax, waxable skis are faster than waxless on flat
     ground, and can be used to climb steep hills much more easily.  With
     improper wax, several pounds of snow will stick to your skis with
     every step. 

   Ski types:
   Track skis:
     These skis are designed for use at "Nordic Centers" and the like
     where tracks are prepared in the snow for you.  They are light,
     flexible, very skinny, do not have metal edges, and are usually 
     waxless although waxable versions are available as well.  You can 
     go very fast with them provided you don't have to break trail or go 
     steeply uphill or downhill.  It might be possible to do telemark
     turns with these, but it's difficult because of the lack of sidecut.  
     These skis are used in classic diagonal racing and for light touring.  
     Racing track skis tend to be waxable.

   Skating skis:
     These skis are designed for use with the skating technique, which 
     looks sort of like Rollerblading on snow. These skis use only glide 
     wax, not grip wax, and are never waxless.  Skilled racers go faster and 
     easier in most conditions using this technique, so adherents of classic 
     diagonal racing hate it.  Skating skis are shorter and stiffer than 
     track skis, and the tips are rounder.  They are single-cambered.
     Skating skis are never used with three-pin bindings because the binding
     width would interfere with the technique.

   Backcountry skis:
     These skis are designed for use on backcountry trails, where you
     may be breaking trail, may be carrying a pack, and may find untouched
     powder bowls just begging for a few turns.  They are heavier and
     wider than track skis, but lighter and narrower than downhill or
     telemark skis.  They are usually double-cambered and have metal 
     edges and good sidecut for telemark turns and control on the downhill.  
     Both waxless and waxable versions exist.  

   Telemark skis:
     These skis are designed for use at lift-served ski areas, for
     people who want to use telemark technique down the hill but are too
     lazy to ski up it first, and for people who don't mind the extra effort
     to climb with these skis, in return for a better downhill run.  They 
     are a bit longer and narrower than downhill skis, but basically look 
     a whole lot like downhill skis with cross-country bindings.  They are 
     better for telemarking downhill than backcountry skis, but it is harder 
     to ski uphill with them because they are heavier and have less camber.  
     These skis are usually waxable.  Three-pin bindings are usually used.

   Mountaineering:
     These are schizophrenic skis for people who can't decide if they're
     into cross-country or downhill.  They are usually used with a
     randonee binding, which is used with an alpine (downhill) boot, and 
     allows the heel to be free for uphill climbing but locked down for 
     downhill skiing.  They are essentially lighter alpine skis.


 3.02) "What kind of bindings and boots should I get?"

   There are basically three kinds of bindings used on cross-country skis:  
   three-pin, integral boot/binding systems, and randonee.  Backcountry
   boots are usually stiffer and sturdier than track boots, and skating
   boots have a tall plastic cuff for ankle support.

   Three-pin:
     The most common type of binding, it usually consists of a metal
     or plastic plate that the front of the boot fits into;  three holes
     in front of the toe fit over three pins on the plate, and the top
     of the plate locks down to hold the toe in place.  A heel plate keeps 
     the foot in a straight line on the ski, but doesn't hold the heel down.  
     Cable bindings are a type of three-pin binding (used with the same
     style boot) which hold the toe down with a wedge rather than with 
     pins;  the boot is retained by a cable which goes around the heel.
     Boots and bindings of this style range from light-duty plastic
     bindings and low-cut boots for track use, to heavy metal bindings
     and stiffer leather and plastic boots which are better for 
     telemarking and carrying loads.
   
   Integral systems:
     There are three major types of integral systems which are mutually
     incompatible.  NNN (New Nordic Norm) is a system in which the three
     holes in front of the boot toe are replaced by a horizontal metal rod
     which is locked into the binding by a lever.  The heavier-duty 
     NNN-BC (Back Country) system moves the rod under the toes, rather than
     in front of it, which many find to be more comfortable than either 
     standard NNN or three-pin systems.  Both NNN and NNN-BC boots and 
     bindings are made by a variety of companies.

     The third system is Salomon's Profil system, a version of which is 
     used by most racers.  They also make a backcountry version.  Profil, 
     like NNN-BC, has the pivot point under the toes rather than in front 
     of the boot.  There is also an older Salomon system, SNS, with the 
     pivot in front. A few other companies make Profil-compatible boots.  

     All three of these systems partially interlock the sole of the boot 
     with the surface of the binding under the foot, reducing or (for the 
     Profil) eliminating the role of the heel plate.  You must use a boot
     compatible with your particular binding type.

   Randonee:
     These bindings take a standard DIN downhill boot, but have a hinge
     at the heel which can be released for free-heel climbing, or locked
     down for downhill skiing.  They have release capabilities, like 
     downhill ski bindings.


 3.03) "Ok, what about poles?"

   Since you need different skis, boots, and bindings for each different
   kind of cross-country skiing, naturally you need different poles as
   well!  Well, it's not quite that bad:  basically you have cross-
   country poles, which are longer than downhill poles, and skating
   poles, which are even longer and very light (and expensive).  There are 
   also telescoping poles, which are used by ski mountaineers because they 
   can be lengthened to cross-country length for the uphill, and then 
   shortened to Alpine length for the downhill.  They can also be extended 
   and connected together for use as an avalanche probe.  Skiers who do
   lift-served telemarking usually use Alpine ski poles.


 3.04) "Ok, what about skins?"

   Skins are long strips of stuff which are affixed to the base of the 
   skis to aid climbing steep hills.  They are usually made of nylon or
   polypropylene (or mohair, if you're rich) with directional "fur" that 
   allows the ski to slide forward but not backward.  The ski-side is
   coated with an adhesive (some brands come pre-coated, others don't)
   which sticks to the base of the ski, which should be fairly clean and
   dry and free of sticky wax.  The tip of the skin has a loop which goes
   over the ski tip;  usually there is no attachment at the tail, just
   the glue, but you can buy "tail-fix" kits which provide a hook for
   the back end of the skin.  (Duct tape works too.)  

   There is a brand called "Snake Skins" made by Voile which are made of
   flexible plastic, and attach with straps rather than with glue.
   They don't absorb water and freeze (good), but don't climb as well as 
   "normal" skins on hard snow and have little forward glide.  They
   are less expensive than other skins.

   Using skins, you can walk up amazingly steep trails.  You can also
   leave the skins on for the downhill ski, which will slow you down
   considerably;  this is useful when it hasn't snowed in a while and
   the trail has become a slick, icy chute.  If you're really desperate,
   you could put the skins on backwards and walk, but where's the fun
   in that?

   Other hints: 
   -Make sure your skins are in good condition prior to the trip.  Remove/
   reapply skin glue if necessary.  
   -Take a tube of skin glue on the trip in case reapplication becomes 
   necessary.  
   -Let your skins dry out between uses by keeping them in a mesh bag inside 
   your pack (better than a closed container).  
   -If you expect to need skins first thing in the morning (and no rain
   overnight), keep the skins on the skis overnight.  This is because very 
   cold skins and skis don't seem to adhere well once separated.  
   -If your skins get too wet to stick, wrapping duct tape around the 
   skis/skins at intervals can keep you going for a while.
   -It is dangerous to assume your skins will keep working throughout a trip.
   If your safety depends on them working correctly, you're in a bad situation.


 3.05) "I've heard there are huts you can ski to and spend the night."

   There are various hut systems in different parts of the USA (and
   world), available for public use (for a fee) by reservation only,
   and for emergency use.  If you use a hut, follow the rules about
   cleaning up, splitting wood, and so on.  DON'T burn firewood if you
   are a day user unless it is an EMERGENCY.  DON'T try to spend the
   night without a reservation unless it is an EMERGENCY.  *This isn't
   a joke because death isn't reversible or fun and you can contribute
   to someone else's demise.*  Don't plan a hut trip unless someone
   in your group is proficient in:  avalanche awareness, medical emergency,
   rescue, bivouac, evacuation, route finding, map and compass reading.
   And even then...

   Some contacts:
   Sierra Club huts (California):
     Hut Reservations
     Sierra Club	
     Clair Tappan Lodge
     P.O. Box 36
     Norden, CA 9572

   10th Mountain Division huts (Colorado):
     10th Mountain Trail Association
     1280 Ute Avenue
     Aspen, CO 81611
     303/925-5775

 3.06) "What is the telemark turn thing?"
     This is more a style of skiing and is largely regarded as a Norwegian
     attempt at humour. Proper telemark style requires not only the
     proper ski, but an entire wardrobe consisting of drab grey wool
     socks, funny looking wool pants (tucked into the socks), a sweater
     that looks like it's still on the sheep, and a hat with strings long
     enough to be used for suspenders.

     Telemark, named after the Telemark, Norway, is the original form
     from which alpine and nordic seemed to develop.  It requires a better
     sense of balance and more daring that either of the other two forms
     combined, and so is not recommended until you have some experience
     with alpine/nordic skiing.  Once you have that - and have taken a
     couple of lessons YYYYYIIIIIIIPPPPPPAAAAAHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!