Newsgroups: rec.sport.golf
Subject: 3/3 Metal Wood Refinishi
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 1992 00:00:04 -0600

>>>CONTINUED FROM PREVIOUS MESSAGE


14)Make  sure  clubhead is completely dry and then wipe with tack rag
again.  Now, spray the fourth and last coat of polyurethane  on  the
clubhead.   Do  not  use  the clubhead for least 1 week to allow all
materials to cure!


RESULTS:

The polyurethane I used did not completely stand up to hitting  golf
balls repeatedly, but it was no disaster either.  It chipped in only
two places after 20 minutes of driving range use---so I learned  the
lesson shown below about the different types of polyurethane.  Other
than that, the epoxy hung in there...

So, I'll retry using "golfclub" polyurethane and I'll  use  a  dryer
setup to bake it on. (see my other posts)


NOTES:

>>A word again about the sprays used here.  The Primer/Sealer  fumes
are  the  worst.   Be  sure  to use a paint respirator (available in
hardware stores or Golfsmith) when spraying and/or  be  prepared  to
ventilate  your  spraying  areas  with  large  amounts of fresh air.
Also, use a dust mask when sanding and safety goggles to protect the
eyes at ALL TIMES!

Use  rubber  gloves  for all sanding and spraying operations!  Those
yellow latex gloves you can get in grocery stores  work  just  fine.
Keeps any chemicals from absorbing into the skin and no hand washing
needed after you are done!


>>Materials used:
  Duct tape            Black Epoxy Spray Paint (Golfsmith #921A)
  Masking tape         Primer/Sealer Spray (Golfsmith #920)
  Tack rag             Polyurethane Spray
                       Nylon stiff bristle brush
  Pipe thread stick    Bondo body filler
                       100,400,600 grit sandpaper

>>From "Golf Club Repair in Pictures:, Ralph D. Maltby, 1980, quote:

"A word about polyurethane coatings: there are many different  types
of  polyurethane, each formulated for a different application.  Many
types available in stores  will  not  adhere  properly  to  all  the
various  materials  found on wood clubheads such as the wood itself,
metal, and plastic.  They may look good for a short  while  but  may
soon  crack,  chip,  or peel upon impact with a topped ball or "fat"
shot.  If you are  pioneering  a  new  brand,  test  it  thoroughly,
otherwise  stick  with  a  reputable  maker  of specially formulated
polyurethanes for golf woods."

I  have  seen  this  chipping and peeling occur with my first set of
clubs (Northwestern  cheapies).   Not  pretty.   Another  hint--it's
usually  best to buy a set of finishing sprays from one source (like
Golfworks or Golfsmith) to insure compatibility.

>>USER BEWARE!  I OFFER THESE HINTS AS IS.  I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR
ANY DAMAGE YOU MAY CAUSE USING THEM.


                                   o o o o
                                  o        o
From Minnesota--highest per capita of golf nuts in the Nation!
David.Moore@tdkt.kksys.com      o            o
                              o               o      |18>
____________________________o_________________ o o o |_________
___
 X SLMR 2.0 X It's only a hobby ... only a hobby ... only a

 * Origin: Dark Knight's Table (1:282/31)
Newsgroups: rec.sport.golf