HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: tenny@euclid.uucp (Nathan Tenny)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: frogs, and a question
Date: 2 Jan 93 09:40:39 GMT
Article-I.D.: pith.1i3nunINN9nf
Organization: Department of Mathematics, University of Oregon
NNTP-Posting-Host: euclid.uoregon.edu


The little (~1") African frogs, which you see (or at least I do) in just
about every pet shop with a couple of fishtanks, seem to be completely
uninterested in bothering fish.  The larger species people have been talking
about might be of the Xenopus genus---books claim they get about 5" long.  I've
never kept them, but given how their South American relatives behave, I
imagine they'd be hell on fish.  ("gulp! what oscar?")

At the risk of exposing my ignorance, I don't know what sort of conditions
one keeps cichlids in, but the little dwarf frogs seem to like their
temperatures around 75, with a pretty wide margin---I've had them up to 85
(during a nasty summer)---and reasonably neutral water (though they were in
pH ~6.2 for a while without much trouble).  Hope that's helpful.  (BTW: they
also tolerated some awfully high ammonia levels, which makes me think they
aren't too picky about water quality.)

Now, a question: One of my dwarf frogs, sometime in the last few weeks,
developed a pink and swollen belly, and was back to normal when I came back
home after Christmas.  Having read that they breed well in captivity, I'd
like to think it laid eggs---does anyone know if that's plausible?  (Their
water temperature dropped to ~75 from ~80 recently, which I imagine might
induce spawning.)  If there are eggs around, what do they look like?  When
can I expect tadpoles?

Thanks
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: towheed@nssdca.gsfc.nasa.gov (NSSDC, NASA - Goddard Space Flight Center)
Subject: Scott Paris Call home !
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA - Goddard Space Flight Center
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 22:21:00 GMT

Yo Scott !

				CALL SYED !



>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
The views expressed above are mine, and mine alone.  I do this with the 
understanding that the Constitution on the United States of America guarantees
this right to all within its shores.  The message was typed in my own time and
on my own free will.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Syed S. Towheed >>>>>>>>
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: mark stephens <stephens@kong.gsfc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Re: [F] Tough hair algae question
X-Xxmessage-Id: <A75CFCB0CB01EC3D@mstephens.gsfc.nasa.gov>
X-Xxdate: Tue, 22 Dec 92 17:11:12 GMT
Organization: NASA/GSFC
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d12
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 92 22:09:24 GMT

Is there an algae conspiracy going on here?  I had two tanks in October
break out is the long (>1") green hair algae coupled with the harder to
remove shorter stuff (?, I should look at it under the microscope to
verify).  Easy to remove but fast growing and in some places, the fish
could not swim through.  The larger plant tank at home had Fe at 0.2ppm
(from Dupla24, duh, what I get for not measuring at least once a month). 
I suspect the one at work had too much FerroPlant and Wimex trace added.

The one at work is recovering after a filter cleaning and two 20% water
changes.  The one at home is still a basket case.  Sigh.  I wonder if
fall/winter has something to do with these outbreaks or is it just the
approach of the holidays making me lazy.  Hummmmm.

    mark
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier)
Subject: Re: [F] Good food for Kribensis?
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Fri, 1 Jan 93 18:10:07 GMT

Charles H. Hemstreet IV (hemstree@mddchh.fc.hp.com) wrote:
: I have them seperated into three
: tanks, one that is lighted, the other two are not.  The Krib's in the
: lighted tank seem to take flake food pretty easily but the Krib's in
: my 18 gallon rubbermaid vats do not.  Any suggestions?

My first guess is that the fish in the unlit tanks can't
see the flakes.  I would put a light over them, and maybe
move a couple of fish from the currently lit tank into the
other two - when the other fish see the newcomers partaking
of flakes, they'll get the idea.
--
"They thought to use and shame me but I win out by nature, because a true
freak cannot be made.  A true freak must be born." - K. Dunn, _Geek Love_

Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: wcollins@netcom.com (Walter J. Collins)
Subject: Re: [F] Pterophyllum Scalare
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)
Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1993 15:42:36 GMT

In article <1992Dec30.081041.12190@netcom.com> oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev) writes:
>In article <carmody.725661651@feldspar32> carmody@rtsg.mot.com (Ronald P. Carmody) writes:
>
>>5) Occupants (other)
>>	5a) Type
>
>Corydoras or Brochis species catfish, mid-sized tetras or pencilfishes,
>hatchet fishes, non-annual rivulines.

I really don't recommend corydoras if one intends to spawn the angels.  I
used to have a pair of angels in a community tank that also included several
corydoras.  The corydoras loved to eat the eggs when the angels spawned.
Since I wasn't trying to spawn the angels and didn't have anywhere to
raise the fry, this was ok, but if spawning is your plan, I recommend you
skip the corydoras.

Casey
(Kristin Harvey)
-- 
wcollins@netcom.netcom.com  < Walt Collins / Kristin Harvey >
1011 New Hope St., #12-C  |  Norristown, PA  19401  |  (215)277-2567
From: Steve.Kilbey%bbs@jptcs.com (Steve Kilbey)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: frogs
Date: 29 Dec 92 01:01:34 GMT
Reply-To: Steve.Kilbey%bbs@jptcs.com (Steve Kilbey)
X-Posting-Software: UniBoard 1.10a S/N 202921

I have 2 small (<1 inch) african fromgs in my 10 gallon community tank with
neons, angels, and glass cats. hen they get too big, I know they will go
after my neons. What I am asking is, can I toss them in my african ichlid
(that's cichlid) tank when they grow? Ignore the pH question for now, I just
want to know if they can survive in my 20 gallong high african tank.

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: bever@csd630a.erim.org (Dave Beverstock)
Subject: Re: [M] Marine tank temptation.
In-reply-to: sdebol@tsp.med.umn.edu's message of Thu, 17 Dec 1992 15:54:30 GMT
Organization: Environmental Research Institute of Michigan, Ann Arbor, Michigan
Date: 21 Dec 92 18:29:14

I would further recommend that you go with an 18 inch wide tank
instead of the usual 12 inches. Sometimes these are called breeder
tanks.  You just get more room to stack rocks, and the surface area is
greater, which my help in oxygen exchange to the atmosphere.

dave
--
Dave Beverstock   bever@erim.org
Environmental Research Institute of Michigan (ERIM)
P.O. Box 134001  Ann Arbor, MI  48113-4001 313-994-1200 x2239
From: had@Software.Mitel.COM (David Ha)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: fish stores in New York City
Date: 22 Dec 92 21:39:24 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Mitel. Kanata (Ontario). Canada.

hi everyone,

I'll be visiting New York City over the Christmas season.  Could
someone suggest any good fish stores in that area.  Are there
any mail order places close to NY City?

thanks,
/dave.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: "jon simkins" <jon.simkins@canrem.com>
Subject: [m] marine tank temptatio
Reply-To: "jon simkins" <jon.simkins@canrem.com>
Organization: Canada Remote Systems
Distribution: rec
Date: 22 Dec 92 06:09:54 EST

In <1glt89INNhgd#transfer.stratus.com>, scol@scottsdale.az.stratus.com
(Scott Colbath) asks:

I'm new to marine tanks myself (six months) and eveything is working
out well for me now. Not an expert, but some answers from my very recent
experience.

SC>1) What size tank is a good starting point?

I started with 20gal. Small, easy to manage.

SC>2) What equipment is needed (I mean everything)?

The list is not that bad. Two items are esential (well, three,
counting the tank itself). These are a protein skimmer and good
lighting. Rather than hit you with all the specifics, I would really
suggest that you take a look at recent backissues of _Aquarium Fish
Monthly_; they just ran a comprehensive series on small marine
aquariums. I use a biolife 55 trickle filter/heater and a homemade
protein skimmer that is very similar to a Skilter 250. A good fish store
will have both of these items. And the magazines.

SC>2a) What does some of this equipment do? I hear the names but don't know
SC>    anything about them. Things like protein skimmers and stuff.

Again, check through the articles. There are also quite a few recent
books available that go through all the necessary steps and explain
the equipment is considerable detail. The only gadget that you need
that is strictly marine is the protein skimmer and it is just not
that complex.

SC>3) How much money are we talking about to get it started?

Slightly more than fresh water. I'm in Canada so the prices here are
much higher and wouldn't be that helpful. The initial cost is higher
than freshwater because you will need some additional equipment and
supplies (that skimmer, salt, marine test kit, hydrometer, etc.).....

SC>4) What is maintenance like with a marine tank?

...but one you get it started and cycled, it's really very
straightforward. Partial water changes from time to time, glass
cleaning, etc.

SC>Before I take the plunge into the salt water side of the
SC>hobby, I want to know what I am getting myself into.

I have a very beautiful little tank in my office that is a pleasure to
look at. No regrets.

---
  SLMR 2.1a  
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: stu@mbsdev24.shearson.com (Stuart Bernstein)
Subject: Feeding Tri-Color Sharks
Organization: Lehman Brothers
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 12:59:50 GMT

  I recently bought two tri-color sharks from the local
  aquarium,  They are in a 55 gallon tank with a variety
  of fish (2 Dwarf Gouramis, 2 Rasp.Barbs, 5 Cardinal Tetras, 3 Zebra danios)

  They seem to be VERY shy.  They hide under a cave in the corner of the tank.
  When it comes to feeding, all the fish come to the top except the Tri-Color
  sharks.  

  I went out and bought sinking pellets for middle and bottom feeders.  
  Last night after dropping the pellets,  the Sharks still stayed under the cave.
  The other fish wound up eating the pellets.

  Any suggestions for getting these guys to eat.  Its been about 4 days since
  I purchased them now !

							Thanks 
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: lgoodfie@sobeco.com (l.goodfield)
Subject: Re: Care for Red Devils?
Organization: Sobeco Ernst & Young
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1992 10:16:46 GMT

In <23DEC199211400998@mars.lerc.nasa.gov> seove@mars.lerc.nasa.gov (ERIC OVERTON) writes:


>How do you care for Red Devils?  Is the Red Devil and
>the Frontosa Cichlid the same fish?

>Thanks.

>Eric

First, Red Devil is a south american cichlid and the frontosa is an African
cichlid. Second, caring for Red Devils can be tricky due to the fact that
the Red Devil can be rather agressive.

Over a period of 5 years, I kept various Red Devils in a 72 gallon tank. In
almost every case the Red Devil was king of the tank; he/she was always the
one with the most perfect fins. However, the Red Devil would usually
terrorize only one particular fish in the tank over a period of time.

The Red Devil cichlid is unquestionably one of the most attractive
cichlids, particulrily the male, who, when full grown, develops the humped
forhead. Because of their dominant personality, they are fairly easy to
keep; it's the other fish in the tank that usually become the main concern.
In my 72 G tank, they would usually grow to about 6 in. in length. If you
can, purchase them small (1 in.) as they tend to grow quite fast, besides
smaller is cheaper - a full grown male in Montreal can fetch over $50.00.

When my tank was at its optimum (w.r.t. fish) I had a pair of Salvini
Cichlids, a pair of Texas Cichlids, a very agressive black male and pink
female convict, a green severum, a 10" clown-knife, and several plecos.
Most, if not all, people would always comment on the Red-Devils first.
BTW, the male Red-Devil gave the green severum the most difficulty.

-- 
Lionel Goodfield
(514) 592-4204
Internet Access: lgoodfie@sobeco.sobeco.com
    UUCP Access: uunet!sobeco!lgoodfie
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: jimh@ultra.com (Jim Hurley)
Subject: Re: Dead Pl*co!!!
Organization: Ultra Network Technologies
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 92 19:57:22 GMT

In <1hrg53INN13pe@introl.introl.com> pete@introl.com (Pete Ikusz) writes:

[... salt in canned vegies affect on tank ]

-->I would only start to worry if iodized salt was used on the vegies.
-->But even small amounts of iodine should not effect the tank at all.
-->(They should dissapate after a day or two.)
-->Just don't start dumping teaspoons of it in!

-->-Pete
-->-- 
-->-------------------------------------------------------
-->Pete Ikusz	Introl Corporation	pete@introl.com

I wouldn't worry much about iodized salt.
I used to routinely put about 2 tsp gallon of table salt in my
community tank for about a year. The occupants were angels,
tetras, swords, gouramis, corys, plecos, etc.
-- 
Jim Hurley --> jimh@ultra.com  ...!ames!ultra!jimh  (408) 922-0100
Ultra Network Technologies / 101 Daggett Drive / San Jose CA 95134
From: ghart@ems.cdc.com (Geoffrey Hart)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Dead Pl*co!!!
Date: 29 Dec 92 20:11:54 GMT
Reply-To: ghart@ems.cdc.com
Organization: Empros Systems International, a division of CDC

In article <1hq442INNoe1@hp-col.col.hp.com>, howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel) writes:
|> bmoss@ejv.com (Brian Moss) writes:
|> > To all experienced fishkeepers. 
|> > I have a dead Pleco and i am deeply saddened and concerned.  
|> > Why did he die?
|> > I have 20 gal FW tank with 6 neon tetras and 2 blue danios.  
|>
|> > Brian "bmoss@ejv.com"
|> 
|> Were you specifically feeding the pleco?  It takes one about one to two
|> months to die from starvation.  I find that buying a small zucchini
|> (at outrageous $$$), cutting a slice about the size of a half dollar &
|> 1/2 to 1 inch thick (boil in a cup of water in the microwave for about
|> 3-5 minutes then let cool--this way it'll sink) & feeding the pleco 
|> about twice a week keeps him/her/it healthy.  It also prevents them
|> from deciding that such things as the slimecoat on your prize fish is a
|> much tastier item than algae.

I too would suggest zucchini (or cucumber, canned spinach, algae wafers,
frozen peas - broken open, or my new favorite that someone here suggested:
canned green beans).  I have about a dozen different kinds of "algae eaters"
and they *all* like these.   Some prefer the soft insides, and some prefer
the harder green outsides of the various vegatables.  The green beans seem
to be the perfect combo (I've watched both of my whiptails gnaw on a bean
for 5 minutes+ :-).

But, I have to say, that even with these feedings, I recently lost a pl*co
(the basic common kind, latin?) for no apparent reason.  I had driftwood
caves for him, so it was common to not see him unless you really looked.  I
didn't see him for a few days, so I decided to really look.  He was dead
:-(mostly eaten also, by my small loaches, I think).  I had him for more
than a year I think, got him at 1.5", and he was close to 4 inches when he
died.  There were probably 20+ other fish in the tank (various tetra's,
loaches, corys, etc...) and nobody was even sick.  No recent additions
either.

I thought it was the pl*co curse, but don't know for sure :-(.

Since then, I completely taken down that tank, and moved everybody else to
another tank.  Added some more other species (bristle nose, chinese
butterfly, sorry, my Aqua. Atlas is at home, so I'm not very scientific
;^), and they seem to be doing well.

One other note, my corys (bronze) really liked the canned spinach, so'd I
suggest that and the canned beans.  I'll buy a small zucchini about once a
month for a treat, but it's relatively expensive.  Does any know what
effect the salt in the canned beans has on fish?  I've never added salt to
the water, but I've heard that it's ok to do (good for some disease
prevention).  What about the salt in these canned vegetables?

-- 
    geoff hart ghart@ems news@ems library@ems   x4273   s/ems/ems.cdc.com/
From: howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Cloudy Water Redish
Date: 2 Jan 1993 01:18:36 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division
NNTP-Posting-Host: hplsdum.col.hp.com

Is the tank in the sun, near a window, or receives an excessive 
amount of light?  It sounds like algae bloom, from the 
description.

Does the tank happen to be one of the ancient ones that were
metal frame with asphaltum sealing????

[Howard's Wife Deb]
-- 
Howard Rebel hpcsos.col.hp.com 

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: wmack@en.ecn.purdue.edu (William J Mack)
Subject: Re: Blue-green 'algae' are DEAD!
Summary: I did not write...
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 92 16:24:32 GMT

In article <NHX5VB8w165w@cerianthus.pinetree.org>, cowan@cerianthus.pinetree.org (Darin Cowan) writes:
> wmack@en.ecn.purdue.edu (William J Mack) writes:
>
wmack@en.ecn.purdue.edu (William J Mack) DID NOT WRITE:
 
> > > Don't believe me.  Dose an established, populated salt water tank
> > > with Maracyn as the instructions recommend and you will probably
> > > find a tank full of dead fish on the third day with amonia and or
> > > nitrite off the scale.  I have advised three people recently that
> > > have ignored my warnings against doing this.  *ALL* of the fish
> > > died.  "But the package said it was okay!", they cried.
> > > 
> > > Jan Isley   jan@bagend.uucp   gatech.edu!bagend!jan   (404)434-1335
>
THAT WAS WRITTEN BY JAN ISLEY ABOVE
> 
> Darin Cowan - cowan@cerianthus.pinetree.org 
> 


-- 
Bill Mack                        "If you expect me to be an expert on the
School of Electrical Engineering  fundamentals while I'm asking a fundamental
Purdue University                 question....then fine, I'll pretend to be one"
From: howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Opinions on new tank setup.
Date: 31 Dec 1992 19:24:36 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division
NNTP-Posting-Host: hplsdum.col.hp.com

For a 20, skip the angels.  How about two clown loaches, the pleco,
??the rummy nose tetras.  If so inclined, go for as few as will be
happy in a school....my only source claims 2" for full grown.

We're about to start experimenting with the bio-wheels (order is
on it's way), it does look like a better way to go.

Plants add places for fish to hide, which is good; but cut down on
the space they have to swim.  I'm leery of overstocking any tank,
& tend to preach on a little under; which gives more leeway in
case of problems.

[Howard's Wife Deb]
-- 
Howard Rebel hpcsos.col.hp.com 

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: raible@cbmvax.commodore.com (Bob Raible - LSI Design)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Dead Pl*co!!!
Date: 31 Dec 92 03:04:41 GMT
Reply-To: raible@cbmvax.commodore.com (Bob Raible - LSI Design)
Organization: Commodore, West Chester, PA

In article <1992Dec30.195722.7818@ultra.com> jimh@ultra.com (Jim Hurley) writes:
>In <1hrg53INN13pe@introl.introl.com> pete@introl.com (Pete Ikusz) writes:
>
>[... salt in canned vegies affect on tank ]
>
>-->I would only start to worry if iodized salt was used on the vegies.
>-->But even small amounts of iodine should not effect the tank at all.
>-->(They should dissapate after a day or two.)
>-->Just don't start dumping teaspoons of it in!
>
>-->-Pete
>-->-- 
>-->-------------------------------------------------------
>-->Pete Ikusz	Introl Corporation	pete@introl.com
>
>I wouldn't worry much about iodized salt.
>I used to routinely put about 2 tsp gallon of table salt in my
>community tank for about a year. The occupants were angels,
>tetras, swords, gouramis, corys, plecos, etc.
>-- 
>Jim Hurley --> jimh@ultra.com  ...!ames!ultra!jimh  (408) 922-0100
>Ultra Network Technologies / 101 Daggett Drive / San Jose CA 95134

Sheesh! What does everybody have against iodine? Iodine is a required nutrient
for fish as well as humans (that's why they put it in table salt). Most areas
of the country have appreciable levels of iodine in their tap water. The one
exception I know of is here in the extreme northeast where glacial activity
mixed things up a bit. This would include New England, New York state(including
Long Island which wa sformed by a glacier), and Northern Pennsylvania. This 
would probably include the northern reaches of the midwest but I'm not that
familiar with these areas. The point is that if your tap water doesn't contain
any iodine you might well consider adding a touch of iodized salt to your tank.
-- 
_____________________________________________________________________________
Robert J. Raible		EMAIL:raible@cbmvax.commodore.com
VLSI Program Manager		 or: {uunet|rutgers|pyramid}!cbmvax!raible
Commodore Business Machines     "my comments, not Commodore's, ok ?"
From: rg@kunikpok.UUCP (R.G. Keen)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Tank Mysteries
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 92 22:35:33 CST
Organization: Kunikpok Kennels and Komputers (Pet Project)

Well, they are mysteries to me. My wife and I have three tanks, all 
freshwater, and all (have been) stable for a couple of months. We've only 
had tanks for five months altogether, but we are fairly widely read in 
the public literature on keeping aquariums, tank chemistry, fish species, 
diseases, etc. We got through most of the normal beginner hurdles fairly 
easily. BUT...

We left our tanks in the care of a neighbor over the holiday. We cleaned 
them before we left, checked Ph and ammonia, and did a periodic water 
change. The neighbor is a reasonably competant engineer and although no 
fishkeeper, not a fool either. He reports that all the fish in one tank 
were found dead the day after we left town, with the exception of the 
kuhli loach. This was about 28 hours after we left them alive and well.
Both other tanks were fine. The death tank had a high ammonia level in it 
but Ph was 6.2 when we returned after a week. The kuhli recovered just 
fine after the neighbor put him in another tank. The neighbor froze the 
bodies in case we needed to examine them. All were bloated. What killed 
them?

Our local experts think two things are possible - either the neighbor 
poisoned them :^) or something about the cleaning and water change did 
them in. The water was prepared with chlorine/ammine remover and aged for 
three days before use and heated to a matching temperature before the 
change, and changed the Ph by +.2, normal procedure for all tank changes, 
as well as being put in the other two tanks; I don't think the water did 
it. One of our experts says that a dead spot in the filter under a rock 
might have caused a collection of H2S which we released in the cleaning, 
and this may have poisoned the fish. We did a relatively thorough 
cleaning and had to return part of the siphoned water to the tank to 
avoid changing more than 1/4 of the tank. Any ideas???????

Mystery #2: One of our tanks has a mat of fungus, whitish gooey 
threadlike mats in the top 1/2 to 1/4" of the gravel bed. The fish are 
OK, and the water tests normal, but it's hard to clean since the mats 
have to be broken up. What is this stuff, and what sin did I commit to 
have it visited upon me????

Many thanks for any information. 

R.G. 
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: mdh0957@ultb.isc.rit.edu (M.D. Haupert)
Subject: Goldfish Resistant Plants - Live [F]
Summary: Pigs with fins 
Originator: mdh0957@ultb
Keywords: Eat, eat, eat ...
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 16:31:41 GMT

Has anyone found a plant that fancy goldfish won't strip down?  I've
got about 6 medium to large ( 6" max ) ryokin and orlanda that are
WELL fed, yet eat anything not bolted down.  Any sugestions?  They
absolutely love sword plants and hygrophilia.
mdmh von rit ( reality is what you make it )