HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jgelhaus@src.honeywell.com (Jennifer Gelhaus)
Subject: Introducing a new baby to the dog
Organization: Honeywell Systems & Research Center
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 15:34:02 GMT


We have an 11mo old Brittany and are expecting our first baby 
in November :-). (The breeder we got Molly from has an extremely
good reputation for his hunting dogs and she has already shown
a lot of potential) She is a very well-behaved dog, really 
identifies Scott as her "master", for lack of a better word, and
lots of people have told us that she's actually pretty mild-
mannered for a Brittany.

We have also been assured by several people that she seems to
have a personality such that she'll probably be good with the
baby, maybe even protective (like those dogs you see that lay
right next to baby and don't let any strangers touch it!)

Well, I'd like to hear from other Brittany owners about how
this breed in general is with small children. Also, since Molly
is really our "baby" now, we're going to be careful to not
ignore/exclude her after our child is born, but are there any
specific suggestions regarding introducing the two and helping
Molly get used to the baby and not be jealous? I would think
that her being so young now might be a plus since they can 
kind-of "grow up" together, and make Molly less prone to resent
a new family-member??? Sorry this got so long, thank you for
ANY comments you can make!

-Jennifer
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: liza@pangea.Stanford.EDU (Liza Miller)
Subject: Hunting ability in Labradors 
Organization: Stanford Univ. Earth Sciences
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 20:10:01 GMT

	I must say that I was not following this thread until a recent
posting caught my eye, so I hope I am not offensively ignorant about what
has already been said.

	The posting that I saw made references to the fact that most
labradors being bred today do not have hunting instincts.  As a Labrador
fancier and exhibitor and future breeder, I find that statement to be
eroneous.  I have four Labradors of my own that I work in show, field, and
obedience.  The exhibitors that I associate with in the San Francisco Bay
area generally work their dogs in all three of those areas to some degree.
The show population, at least around here, are huge supporters of the
hunting test program.  My closest friends do not consider their dogs
"finished" until they have their CH, JH, and CD degrees, at least.  Many of
them are also active in NAHRA (North American Hunting Retriever
Association).  Many of my friends hunt with their dogs and sell their dogs
to hunters.  

	Our club, the Golden Gate Labrador Retriever Club, strongly
encourages dogs that are bred to participate in hunting programs.  The LRC
requires that CH dogs show basic retrieval instincts through their WC
(working certificate) program.  The hunting tests, at least in our area,
are very popular and well-attended.  I would have to say that at least here
in CA, the retrieving instinct of Labradors is important and to some
sacred.  It is an integral part of what makes them Labradors.  

	However, there are certainly dogs that do not retrieve.  I have one
at home right now that is not interested in retrieving.  He's not
interested in birds.  He's not interested in bumpers.  I'm exaggerating.
He does retrieve and seems to enjoy it, but it isn't a passion for him the
way I think it should be in a Lab.  I had hoped that he would be a stud dog
for me, but if I can't wake up some latent interest in birds, he will be
neutered and placed in a pet home.  I consider retrieving to be an
essential part of what I look for in a dog.

	
	I am sure that with the current status of the Lab as the #1 most
popular dog in teh country that this will be more and more of an issue.
However, I am also sure that with the care and concern of responsible
breeders, the core population of Labradors will retain all the things that
make them wonderful dogs -- including their NEED to bring you things,
especially dead birds!


--
Liza Lee Miller         My dogs are labradorable!     liza@pangea.stanford.edu
Cibola Labradors            Field * Show * Fun                    415/326-5309
Cibola's Misty Mountain Hop--Hopper                   Mistypoint Kashmir--Kash
Talimar All-Pro At Delby--Niner          Campbellcroft Cibola Rosette -- Rosie
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: schalene@sequent.com (Schalene Dagutis)
Subject: Re: Cockers & Hunting (Re: looking for new dog suggestions)
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems Inc.
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 92 18:43:24 GMT

In article <9208141738.AA01017@alw.nih.gov> young@alw.nih.gov (Jeff Young) writes:
>You guys already know this, I think, but your conversation almost
>sounds as if your talking about two different breeds here:  the 
>English Cocker Spaniel and the American Cocker Spaniel.  If your
>asking how many English Cocker Spaniels got a hunting title last
>year, probably quite a few.  If you ask the same of American Cockers
>there probably weren't any.
>-- 
You're right the English Cocker is used more for hunting than the
Amercian Cocker.  But "probably weren't any" is incorrect.  There are
several/many breeders of American Cockers who are active in field
trials.  And several/many American Cockers have titles.  A recent
article in Dog World listed some of them on one of the "tiny print"
pages where they list recent shows and outcomes.  I think it was the
edition with the Coton de Tulear (sp) on the cover.  In fact, the
breeder where my husband got our now deceased American Cocker is very
involved in this area and says the American Cockers are making a
resurgence in field trails.  He thinks this happened now that their
popularity as pets has slipped from the number one ranking it held for
many years.   If we would have let the breed die out after they
temporarily lost their usefulness, it would take many, many years to
redevelop the breed.

schalene
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: X005CB@tamvm1.tamu.edu (Chris Barnes)
Subject: Re: Dog Functionality (was Re: looking for new dog suggestions)
Organization: Texas A&M University
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 15:14:58 GMT

In article <2A883A8C.8133@ics.uci.edu>
    tittle@ics.uci.edu (Cindy Tittle Moore) writes:
 
>
>I used to hold a view similar to Chris'.  Not as extreme, simply that
>"most dogs should work, do something useful."
 
Glad to hear it.  I also realize that I do tend to hold extreme views
(on more than just this issue   ;-)   ).
 
 
>ring and law enforcement K-9: same thing there.  Some dogs are simply
>kept out of the way until they're needed.
 
And I've seen this from dogs that are run in Field Trials.  It's not
good their either.....
 
 
>My conclusion is therefore that IT DOESN'T MATTER WHAT THE DOG DOES.
 
One question:  then why have different breeds ?
 
 
>So a breed was bred for a specific purpose...dogs are primarily
>VERSATILE.  There are typically many uses to which you can put their
>abilities.  Changing that set of uses is not a bad thing, it's part of
>what makes dogs so useful.  And their adaptability to being great pets
>in a wide variety of situations is also a testament to their
>versatility and ability.
 
To a degree, I agree with you.  I have 1 Lab.  I use her to hunt ducks
and geese (their "traditional use"), woodcock & phesant (occationally
used as a flushing dog), and even to track a wounded deer once (never
heard of anyone doing that!  She did find it!).  But those were ALL
sporting uses (the broad category the breed falls into).
 
Also, I agree that there are times when a breed might have talents
unique that make it useful for other purposes where other breeds just
can't cut it (ie.  SAR, Guide Dogs).  In those cases, I think it's
ok for that breed to be used, BUT those dogs should be spayed/neutered
(most guide dogs are anyway, I don't know about SAR).  btw:  2 of
the pups from my bitch's first litter went to the Guide Dog Assoc.
in San Antonio, TX.  They had the pick of the litter from the pups
that I felt didn't have the potiential to be great hunting dogs (get
their MH ).  The 2 that they choose probably would have been decent
hunting dogs, but not great ones.  I would have sold those pups with
a spay/neuter clause anyway.
 
What I really want to prevent is the breed loosing its usefullness
(my encylopedia listed Standard Poodles and Terriers as NON-Sporting !)
for it's intended purpose (in this case, retrieving).
 
I don't really think we're as far apart on this issue as our posts have
indicated.
 
      ----------------------------------------------
Chris Barnes            |
x005cb@tamvm1.tamu.edu  |  Only 21 more days until the start of
(409) 846-3273 (home)   |           hunting season (in Texas)
(409) 845-8454 (work)   |
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: vln@icpsr.umich.edu (Victoria Neff)
Subject: Walking multiple dogs
Organization: Inter-University Consortium for Political and Social Research
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 16:37:10 GMT

In article <172vi2INNrri@moe.ksu.ksu.edu> terry@eece.ksu.edu (Terry Hull) writes:
>I have considered getting Halti collars for all of them so that I can
>put them all on leads and let them get out in front of me, but I have
>not done that yet.  How do the rest of you walk 3 or more dogs at the
>same time?  
>

I haven't done much walking of three dogs (having only had two of my own at 
a time).  My dogs are (mostly) trained to not pull.  When I have walked 
three (27 # Corgi, 55 # shepherd X, 65 # Collie  -- way fewer pounds total
than what you're talking about, but together they outweighed me by plenty),
I have insisted that no one pull.  And they all sit at every curb -- we
look sort of cute.  I liked taking all three of them through town.  They
were good, and everyone couldn't believe I was walking THREE dogs.  People
are easily impressed; it was the sitting at curbs and waiting to be told
they could go that really got to people....  When my daughter was three, she
sat at curbs, too.  ;-)

When my two (the Corgi and the mutt) were younger and more active, I made
a Y leash.  I took a 6' hunk of rope, and made a loop in the middle with
a knot.  I tied clips with swivels at each end.  Then I took a 3' hunk
of rope and made a handle loop at one end and tied another clip with a
swivel at the other end.  The clip on the short rope clipped onto the loop
in the middle of the other rope.  This had the dogs about 6' from me.

They had enough room to explore a bit separately, but most of their pulling
was against each other, not against me.  With those three swivels they rarely
got tangled, even when they switched places often.  I found this a lot
easier than managing two leashes.  Especially as I was usually carrying
something in my "free" hand.

If I were going to do this again, I think I'd have the handler end of the
leash be made of nylon webbing instead of rope -- more comfortable for my
hand.
From: kathleen.brewer@cutting.hou.tx.us (Kathleen Brewer)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: housebreaking & the front door
Date: 15 Aug 92 18:40:00 GMT
Reply-To: kathleen.brewer@cutting.hou.tx.us (Kathleen Brewer)
Organization: The Cutting Edge - Houston, TX - 713-466-1525

TO: wmporter@jetson.uh.edu


WMP>My question is twofold. HOW do we teach Henry to go to the front
WMP>door and indicate his need by whining (or just by sitting there)?
WMP>And second, WHEN will he start doing this?
WMP>Let me describe what we do know. When it's time to take him ouside,
WMP>whether he's going from his crate or not, we start asking, "Does
WMP>Henry need to go oouutsiide???" I usually take him to the front  door
WMP>and crack it slightly while I put the leash on his collar. That
WMP>allows him (I'm guessing) to anticipate the trip outside. Sometimes
WMP>I even make whining noises as I kneel there, putting on the leash.
WMP>But he has yet to go over to the door himself. Am I doing something
WMP>wrong? It would be nice to know that success will be achieved any
WMP>day now.

William, actually you are doing a great job for a first time dog owner!!
The only thing I can suggest is don't let the kids play with him proir
to letting him go out side to do his business. When you remove him from
his crate, don't let his feet touch the floor, take him outside, each
time he does his businsess, drop down and Praise that lil guy! The same
goes for after he has eaten, take him immediatly outside. When he is
loose in the house, watch him for signs of sniffing if you see him doing
this then take him outside. Anytime this puppy exhibits proper behavoir
let him know by exuburant praise.
As in all things success does not come overnight, but you are going in
the right direction. As for getting him to go to the door to let you
know he wants outside, I tried this and it has worked for me. When the
dog would go near the door I would ask her if she wanted to go outside
and then take her there. Lucy always sits by the front door if she wants
to go out. Sometime to go potty and others just to sit in the sun!!
Since I have a pasal of dogs, they are kind of on a schedule. At 5:30 AM
Everyone outside for 2 hours. Inside till Noon, out for 30 minutes,
Outside again at 5:00 for 1 hour. Dinner time, outside again for an hour
then in till I go to bed and then out for a few minutes one last time
then everyone in thier own crates. Since they are on a schedule no one
except Lucy asks to go out!

Enjoy Henry |-}

Kathleen.Brewer@cutting.hou.tx.us
---
 . OLX 2.1 . Hello, I am part number ................
                                               
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: sharonr@ccs.carleton.ca (Sharon Richardson)
Subject: Bichon Frise with reverse sneeze syndrome
Organization: Carleton University
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 20:17:14 GMT

We, too, have a Bichon Frise who had that problem. Our vet called it reverse 
sneeze syndrome. Actually, she thought at first it was allergy related and 
gave us medication. It happened alot when the dog was a year or so, but she 
is now 3 years old and seems to have grown out of this. She will take an 
attack of wheezing only occasionally and if we rub the end of her nose, it 
seems to stop (maybe this is just coincidence!!)
We think this breed of dog is just fantastic. She is so loveable and 
friendly with kids. Both my husband and son have allergies and having a non-
shedding dog is wonderful for that reason too.
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: srlee@beta.lanl.gov (Stephen R Lee)
Subject: Re: help with retriever problem
Organization: Los Alamos National Laboratory
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 16:41:29 GMT

>In article <168488552.X005CB@tamvm1.tamu.edu> X005CB@tamvm1.tamu.edu (Chris Barnes) writes:
>>In article <1992Aug18.212606.25134@newshost.lanl.gov> 
    srlee@beta.lanl.gov (Stephen R Lee) writes:

[stuff deleted]

> 
>>I think all she has to do
>>is (1) keep illegal items out of reach;
> 
>Possibly, but then again, the dog may just switch to chewing on
>the sofa cushions.

Then don't allow the dog access to the cushions when you are not there
to watch it.

[stuff deleted]

> 
>>(3) if the pooch is found chewing an illegal object, use the "GIVE!"
>>command and force the dog to drop it, then praise and replace with a
>>legal toy.  I don't dispute that your suggestion would work, it just
>>seems expensive, elaborate, and un-necessary, unless the dog is
>>particularly stubborn.
> 
>Recall that the problem pooch didn't chew on things when she was
>home.  Kinda hard to give a command when you're not there.  For those
>times where she was home to catch the dog, this would definately be
>the preferred method.  Of course, she may not need to use a video
>camera and rearrange her living room, borrowing a pair of binoculars
>to look through the window *could* be just as effective.....

Are we talking about the same poster?  The person I was referring to
*did* have the problem when she was at home.  Therefore, my comments
stand.  I have conversed with this person off of the net, but I
thought your idea, again, while it might work, seemed a little
elaborate to me, and un-necessary in this case.

> 
>      ----------------------------------------------
>Chris Barnes            |
>x005cb@tamvm1.tamu.edu  |  Only 14 more days until the start of
>(409) 846-3273 (home)   |           hunting season (in Texas)
>(409) 845-8454 (work)   |


-- 
============================================================
Stephen R. Lee                 | 
OooWoo Racing Kennel           | I'd rather be driving sled
E-Mail: srlee@beta.lanl.gov    | dogs.
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: rlt@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (r l taylor)
Subject: Re: Providing for dog in case of death?
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 13:31:54 GMT

While I'm not sure of the legalities (which probably vary from place
to place, anyway) it's certainly a good idea to plan ahead.  Animals
are basically considered property, so you could probably leave them
to someone in your will - but first, be sure that person is willing to
keep them, or find them a home!  And make sure they know how much of a
responsibility that entails.  It's easy to agree to something you don't
think will ever happen;  when it becomes real, it can be a different
story.  I'm fortunate to have a good friend whose dog I would take in
if anything happened to her, and who would also take mine.

Unlike your great-aunt's fine china :-), your pets need immediate
attention if you are hospitalized or die suddenly.  For this reason,
I keep a list of names and phone numbers in an envelope clearly marked
"In Case Of Emergency".  (It includes a number of alternate dog-sitters,
in addition to such things as doctor, church, friends who I would want
contacted, etc.)  I have it in very obvious view by my phone, where
anyone coming into the house could easily find it.  (I remember going
through my step-mother's phone directory after her death, looking for
people who should be told.  I guess I'm hoping that some of my friends/
family would do the same for me, and would find my instructions about the
animals.)  It might also be a good idea to carry something in your wallet,
maybe attached to your driver's license, that would be likely to be found
in case of an accident or sudden illness where you couldn't speak for
yourself.  Otherwise, your pets could be left alone without food and
water, or (if anybody notices them) taken to the pound.

Anyway, that's my system.  That, and a clause in my will indicating
something like "whatever horses and other livestock I possess" and
"any domestic animals I possess" (easier than updating the will any
time an animal dies or a new one arrives).

Roberta
...and Magnum and Babie, who will always be provided for, if I can help it!
From: scott@fido.cs.jhu.edu (Scott Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: Spaying My dog
Date: 21 Aug 92 15:53:15 GMT
Organization: Johns Hopkins Computer Science Department, Baltimore, MD

kjt34420@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Kristin J. Thommes) writes:

>It is best to spay your dog when she turns 6 months old at the earliest,
>or right after her fist heat.  

What I had heard was it is best to spay *before* the first heat, and
even having the dogs go through heat only once greatly increases (by
50% I think) the risk of breast cancer.  I also have heard its not
good to spay too early, because then sometimes they can't pee properly
(recessed somethingorother).  So, I think 6 months at the earliest is
good, although this age varies with the breed.

Scott

--

------------------------------
Scott Smith, scott@cs.jhu.edu
------------------------------
From: smp@aquarius1.Berkeley.EDU (Susan M Painter)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: Hunting ability in Labradors
Date: 20 Aug 92 20:33:56 GMT
Reply-To: smp@aquarius1.Berkeley.EDU (Susan M Painter)

In article <16849AE26.X005CB@tamvm1.tamu.edu>, X005CB@tamvm1.tamu.edu (Chris Barnes) writes:
|>  
|> PS to those who are following this thread:  I can't speak for Terry
|> and Carol (and the others that have thrown in their parts), but I
|> don't think this discussion qualifies as a "flame war".  Just a good
|> discussion/debate on a topic that interests us.
|>  

As a follower of this thread, I definitely do not consider it a flame war.
I have found it extremely interresting and informative.  I think that all
participants have done a good job keeping the tone polite, this leads to
VERY good discussions.
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: amiranda@ariel.aero.org (Ann Miranda)
Subject: Re: Need help writing Nasty Letter
Organization: The Aerospace Corporation; El Segundo, CA
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 14:56:03 GMT

In article <23444@alice.att.com>, rhh@alice.att.com (r hardin) writes:
|> 
|> 
|> >  	Does anyone have any ideas, comments, concerns, flames, 
|> > whatever else that could help me? I'd appreciate `em!
|> 
|> yeah, forget it.
|> 
|> what mischief in the world has not been done self-righteously?

"yeah, forget it"? Easy for you to say! It isn't your pet, and it isn't
your problem.  
	I think it would be pretty irresponsible to just forget it
 and let the breeder continue to breed a mangy dog! 
	Oh, and trying to prevent other people from receiving a
diseased pet is not self-righteous!
From: angela@brahms.udel.edu (Angela Lakwete)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: Blind Poodle
Keywords: blind dogs
Date: 13 Aug 92 12:43:43 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: University of Delaware

Natalie:  I have a middle-aged poodle (something in between a
miniature and toy: adoptee).  He's blind in one eye and a
cataract has begun in the other.  He does occasionally bump into
things but quickly recovers, sniffs out the problem and tries
another tactic.  I began to watch him closely after I discovered
that he loved hiking.  This of course involves new challenges
every few steps.  He gets faster with his nose and with his
"good" eye and doesn't mind a few bumps.  He is always on the
lead in the woods and I intervene if I see a serious hazard.
	So, the dogs truly adapt.  I envy you your 15 year old
poodle.  This Spring my 12 year old standard died from cancer.
She went totally blind just before but I didn't notice the progression
because she didn't get out much.
	Good luck.

-- 
Angela Lakwete                     \  "I'm a doctor not an escalator!" 
CompuServe: 72657,1125              /                -Friday's Child 
Internet: angela@brahms.udel.edu   \