HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu (Terry Quinn)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Subject: Radial tires on old car
Date: 25 Jan 1993 20:55:56 -0600
Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway
Reply-To: tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu



> new 136k miles...).  The owners manual says that unless the car came orginally
> with radial tires, one or more suspension pieces need to be changed.  Parts
 
> Does anybody anything about what the owners manual was talking about?  Should
> I just go ahead and get the radials and hope for the best?  Should Harold kiss
 
Go ahead.  I think the owners manual was probably referring to the 
fact that when radials were first put on cars in place of bias, 
they had to change suspension bushings, because the radials are a 
little harsher to road noise.  This means that you might have a 
little noiser car with the radials, but I doubt you'll notice it.
 
I went from bias to radials in my old '67 Firebird many moons 
ago with no problems.  
 
Be sure to change all 4, or if only two, put the radials on the 
rear axle only.  This is because radials have a steeper corning 
force / slip angle curve, and putting radials on the front and 
bias on the rear can cause the car to oversteer excessively (spin 
out). 

--
                                    Terry Quinn
                                     Germantown Hills, IL
                                      tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu
from Compuserve . . .                  >INTERNET: tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sougata@cc.gatech.edu (Sougata Mukherjea)
Subject: Advice on some repairs
Reply-To: sougata@cc.gatech.edu (Sougata Mukherjea)
Organization: College of Computing
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 18:00:16 GMT

Hi net-world,
I have a Ford Escort 4-door.
I went for a routine check-up and the mechanic told me of the following problem:
I have to fix the inner tire rod ends since they were pushing on my tires.
It may cause some safety hazard.
I'll also have to have a beaming repack rear (that's what they said -
I don't have any idea what it meant).
Finally I'll have to have the wheels alligned.
The total cost comes to about $200.

My qs are:
(1) Is the problem really a safety hazard that needs to be fixed immediately
or can it wait?
(2) Is the price quoted reasonable?

Thanks for any help (by e-mail).

- Sougata


=============================================================================	
  Sougata Mukherjea (sougata@cc.gatech.edu)
  Graphics Visualization and Usability Center, College of Computing,
  Georgia Institute of Technology. 
=============================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: colombo@bronco.fnal.gov
Subject: Re: Dweebs with air tools (was Re: brakes)
Organization: Fermilab Computing Division
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 22:44:01 GMT

In article <1993Jan28.121059.21086@mic.ucla.edu>, brims@bnkl01.astro.ucla.edu (George Brims) writes:
> In article <1993Jan27.232453.3172@scott.skidmore.edu> jdrout@scott.skidmore.edu (JTD is lost) writes:
>> Many garages use air wrenches and blast the rims on bolt at a time.  This
>>can warp the wheel and not allow true tightening, thus warping a
>>rotor.
>>
> Yes, and it can also screw up the studs and wheelnuts when the ASSHOLE
> with the impact wrench puts the nut in the socket then applies tool+nut to
> the stud, instead of starting the nut on the thread by hand, then driving it
> all the way on. I hate those impact things anyway, I have no idea of any
> redeeming feature they might have, other than saving some grease-monkey
> a few seconds. I was brought up to put on wheelnuts with a torque wrench
> too!
> 

An air impact wrench can have an adjustor for torque, unfortunately
they don't always work.  You can insist on having your lug nuts
hand-torqued, just tell them to do it.

-- 
 ___________________________________________________________________________
 *****  *   *  From the e-net desk of: Rick Colombo CD/DCD/DSG    *    *
 *      **  *  Fermi Nat'l Acc'l Lab   708-840-8225 Fermilab     * *   *
 ***    * * *  P.O. Box 500   MS 369   Feynman Computer Center  *****  *
 *      *  **  Batavia, Ill. USA 60510 Colombo@fnal.fnal.gov    *   *  *****
 *    Of course I speak for: Fermilab, Congress and the President... NOT!!!
From: Michel_Denber.WBST147@xerox.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: windshield wipers
Date: 26 Jan 93 03:05:54 GMT
Article-I.D.: alpha.93Jan26.070521pst.11800
Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu

Well, now that we've all had our fun with that poor guy who needed new wipers,
I've got a question: how in God's name do you release the wiper arms from a GM
J-car (84 Buick Skyhawk, if it matters)?  I got one off mainly by accident
after a lot of pushing, pulling, poking, twisting, and cursing, but even with
it off, I still don't understand how they work and I never was able to remove
the other one.  They don't have a handy little release lever like on the
A-cars.  Instead, there's a spring clip that engages a groove at the base of
the splined shaft.  To install, you just push down until the spring clicks in.
However, once in, the spring is inaccessible, even with a narrow screwdriver.
Is there some special tool for this job?  The shop manual says nothing about
this.

And how about the stupid wiper design on the Celebrity?  There's a plastic stop
the wipers rest against.  That's fine, except that the stop was designed to
press against the rubber instead of the metal part of the arm.  This guarantees
that after a few months, the blade is permanently deformed causing a one inch
wide streaky zone right in the middle of your field of vision.  The worst part
is that there's nearly a full second delay between the time you turn on the
wiper switch and the time the wipers actually start moving.  That can make
things exciting when you're cruising along and get blatted with a load of slush
and need it cleared off *now*.  Whose idea was this anyway?  Spiros - tell the
wiper control design guys they're fired.  (Boy, I'm grumpy today).

			- Michel

denber.wbst147@xerox.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: henryng@tellabs.com (Henry Ng)
Subject: Re: HELP:  Can rear end noise be adjusted out?
Organization: Tellabs, Lisle,IL
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 13:52:56 GMT

In article <1993Jan26.025407.24805@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> bweddle@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Blaine J Weddle) writes:
>I have a 1983 Pontiac Trans Am am experiencing a "whining" sound coming from 
>the rear end.  I have already replaced the rear end TWICE in the past nine 
>months (used rear ends) due to their eventual failure after this whining sound
>started.  The noise is not bad yet, but I anticipate that the rear end will 
>have to be replaced in another 4 to 6 months.  Is there any adjustment that can
>be made in order to save this rear end before it gets any worse?  The mechanics
>I have talked to seem to think not, but I doubt their abilities.  Please help.
>
>Blaine Weddle
>bweddle@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu
>
>Note:  I have the 305 Crossfire engine with a 700R4 transmission.

I used to have a 79 Vette which has the same problem. My scenario was when I take my
foot off the gas, the rear end will whine like a mother. The solution was when you 
changed your rear end in the first place, the mechanic forgot to put 4 oz. of GM
additive along with the gear oil. Just change your rear end fluid with the additive,
the whine should go away.

Henry Ng
henryng@tellabs.com
From: pem@mahogany25.cray.com (Paul Martin)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Is this the correct Newsgroup for advice?
Date: 27 Jan 93 20:26:17 GMT
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.


  
  I need some advice about buying sporty wheels/rims,
Originator: pem@mahogany25


"body kits" and other similar items for an 87 Honda Accord.  
A close relative of mine is about to spend a lot of money on 
such articles, and I would like some advice in general, and 
in specific about some of what he intends to get by catalogue! 
   All I want to know now is if this is the best news group
to post such questions to, or would  rec.autos.tech or some 
other one be better? 
   Post to this newsgroup or email to me: pem@mahogany.cray.com
   Thanks very much. 
   Paul Martin
From: scott@psy.uwa.oz.au (Scott Fisher)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: power steering
Date: 22 Jan 1993 05:56:06 GMT
Organization: The University of Western Australia
NNTP-Posting-Host: wapsy.psy.uwa.oz.au

steveh@amadeus.wr.tek.com (Steve Huss) writes:

>In article <43804@sdcc12.ucsd.edu> wsun@jeeves.ucsd.edu (Fiberman) writes:
>>damaging to the car to drive without power steering?

>I don't know but I have a related question:

>How often should one change the power steering fluid?

My Jaguar has a long-duration self-purging system...The old fluid is constantly purged at a rate such that the fluid turns over completely every 18 months. 
The only hassle with this system is you have to manualy top up the fluid
once every couple of months and the old fluid ends up on the drive-way :-)   

Regards Scott.
_______________________________________________________________________________
Scott Fisher [scott@psy.uwa.oz.au]  PH: Aus [61] Perth (09) Local (380 3272).                
                                                             _--_|\       N
Department of Psychology                                    /      \    W + E
University of Western Australia.      Perth [32S, 116E]-->  *_.--._/      S
Nedlands, 6009.  PERTH, W.A.                                      v       

Joy is a Jaguar XJ6 with a flat battery, a blown oil seal and an unsympathetic 
wife, 9km outside of a small remote town, 3:15am on a cold wet winters morning.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mgolden@cwis.unomaha.edu (Brian Golden)
Subject: Re: WHAT IS AN A-I-R PUMP ON A CHEVY CAPRICE ENGINE?
Organization: University of Nebraska at Omaha
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 08:08:36 GMT

csmith@plains.NoDak.edu  writes:
> In article <1993Jan20.230149.3129@news.unomaha.edu> mgolden@cwis.unomaha.edu (Brian Golden) writes:
> >sim@staircase.bae.bellcore.com  writes:
> >> Can somebody please enlighten me as to what is involved in replacing a
> >> noisy A-I-R pump on an '86 chevy caprice?
> 
> >  Option three:  Just disconnect the pully and get a shorter fan belt,
> >so that you can reconnect it come inspection time!
> 
> I don't think that taking the belt off is a good idea.  I did that 
> and saw no significant increase in power or fuel economy.
First of all, one man's "no significant increase" may be the world of
difference to another.  ANY accessory attached to the engine is going to
draw power and lower fuel economy.  This is why you don't see top fuel
drag cars with air conditioning!  Also, it sounds like him pump is pretty
well shot anyway.  I am just trying to offer a cheap alternative.  Part
of the new "Screw the Earth" campaign!  :-)

Mike Golden - mgolden@cwis.unomaha.edu
From: ajb8886@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: WHAT IS AN A-I-R PUMP ON A CHEVY CAPRICE ENGINE?
Date: 24 Jan 93 19:09:03 GMT
Reply-To: ajb8886@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology

In article <1993Jan23.192801.25210@newstand.syr.edu>, ravalent@mothra.syr.EDU (Bob Valentine) writes:
>In article <1993Jan22.170947.21129@colorado.edu> bowmanj@csn.org (Jerry Bowman) writes:
>[previous stuff about AIR pump removal deleted]
>>
>>       The only reason not to remove it is that it  ay be illegal in
>>    your area, After all it is just an air pump pushing air into your
>>    exhaust manifolds. If you only take the belt off exhaust can flow
>>    back into the pump andbuild up carbon deposits. Then when you want
>>    to reconnect it for an emmissions test it will not turn. 

Which brings to mind a half-baked, wild, and probably foolish idea.

I'm positive people will tell me in great and excruciating detail
why it won't work.

How about setting up a diverter so that the output from the air pump could be
switched over to the INTAKE manifolds.  Kind of a belt driven
mini-supercharger?  With a switchable valve at the split point so you could
switch the air flow back to the exhaust manifold.  

On the other hand, even if it could work it would probably be illegal.

Alex


>
>     Sorry, almost _ALL_ AIR systems have a built in check-valve, the
>main purpose of which is to prevent damage to the pump and components
>in the case of a backfire.   If I disconnect it, I remove the outlet
>hose and give a liberal squirt of oil into it, then spin it.   AIR
>pumps do like to sieze if they are disconnected and left....
>                      -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
>                  --> ravalent@mailbox.syr.edu <--  
>
From: pmcgilla@uwsuper.edu (PAT MCGILLAN)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Electric Cars
Date: 25 Jan 1993 21:20:30 GMT
Organization: University of Wisconsin - Superior, Wisconsin
NNTP-Posting-Host: 137.81.1.20

Hi,
  Didn't know where else to post this, so am trying here. I am looking for 
the proper news group to discuss electric cars and things of that nature.

--
Patrick L. McGillan                  Computer Systems Specialist
University of Wisconsin              pmcgilla@uwsuper.edu
Superior, Wisconsin  54880           Ph: (715) 394-8191
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hellmann@cs.scarolina.edu (Doug Hellmann)
Subject: MG carb question
Organization: USC  Department of Computer Science
Distribution: rec.autos.tech
Date: 26 Jan 93 04:09:17 GMT


I am about to come into possession of a 1974 MGB.  I understand they
have some sort of dual side draft carb on them.  Can anyone give me an
opinion on how hard these are to tune to each other?  I can rebuild any
Holley you put in front of me, but I was sort of intimidated by this MG
carb.  

Any thoughts would be appreciated

-Samantha
From: jimv@hienergy.East.Sun.COM (Jim Vienneau  - Sun Microsystems)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: WHAT IS AN A-I-R PUMP ON A CHEVY CAPRICE ENGINE?
Date: 22 Jan 1993 14:54:18 GMT
Organization: Sun
NNTP-Posting-Host: hienergy.east.sun.com

In article <1993Jan22.080246.7763@news.unomaha.edu> mgolden@cwis.unomaha.edu (Brian Golden) writes:
>> Now can anyone tell me *why* the air pump shouldn't be removed??
>I can not really think of any reason why removing the air pump would affect
>engine performance.  It might be harmfull to your catalytic converter...

I don't know about the Caprice, but on my '82 Buick Regal with the 3.8L V6,
the AIR pump only pumps into the exhaust stream for the first 5 minutes of
engine start, then it just diverts the air into the air cleaner. It helps
cut down the emissions before the ECM goes into closed loop mode. When it
started to seize, I pulled the belt with no difference in performace or
fuel economy. (for the greenies out there, yes I'm going to replace it as
soon as it gets warm enough here to go junkyard roaming).


-- 
Jim Vienneau, Sun Microsystems Inc - Chelmsford, MA
Email: jvienneau@east.sun.com   Amateur Radio: WB1B
Good old Ma Bell (well old anyway): (508)442-0372
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: johns@tfs.com (John Stucke)
Subject: Natural Gas for Auto fuel.
Summary: Information needed.
Organization: TRW Financial Systems
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 06:18:20 GMT


Hi All,

I am looking for information on the use of Natural Gas for auto fuel.
specifically I need information on how to convert an auto to use it.
I have seen race cars on ESPN running it and have also seen the PG&E
vans with advertising on them about their Natural Gas use. I heard a rumor
that PG&E is going to open Service Stations for refueling these cars.
Are they really going to have stations? And when?
One thing I haven't heard about using Natural Gas is anything negative.
So let me know of any. If there are any.


Thanks,

John Stucke


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: wesf@boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii)
Subject: Re: TIRE SIPING (sp)?????
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 16:01:08 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

Troy Wecker (troy@sequent.com) wrote:

: Is there a net Guru out there that can give me more information and
: whether there is data to show siping works?

I'm no Guru, but siping does work.  This is a common practice for
racing applications.  I believe that tire life is shorter but when
you are for out-and-out performance, who cares about tire life anyway?

Wes Fujii
________________________________________________________________
      ___   ___ ___ 
     /  /  /  //  /
    /  /__/  //  /    A real motor is an Oldsmobile Rocket 455
   /  HURST //  /     "This is NOT the new generation of Olds"
  /  /  /  //  /_______ 
 /__/  /__//  //  ___  \
          /  //  /   \  \       Wes "BANZAI" Fujii
         /  //  /OLDS/  /          Boise, Idaho
        /  / \  \___/  /      wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com
       /__/   \_______/
From: wesf@boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Radial tires on old car
Date: 26 Jan 93 19:12:45 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

JOHN FARMER (jfarmer@cs.utk.edu) wrote:

: Does anybody anything about what the owners manual was talking about?  Should
: I just go ahead and get the radials and hope for the best? 

Go for the radials, the old cars work great with them!  If you are worried,
have the alignment set more neutral on the toe-in than what the bias-plies
needed.  You'll be fine!

Wes Fujii
________________________________________________________________
      ___   ___ ___ 
     /  /  /  //  /
    /  /__/  //  /    A real motor is an Oldsmobile Rocket 455
   /  HURST //  /     "This is NOT the new generation of Olds"
  /  /  /  //  /_______ 
 /__/  /__//  //  ___  \
          /  //  /   \  \       Wes "BANZAI" Fujii
         /  //  /OLDS/  /          Boise, Idaho
        /  / \  \___/  /      wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com
       /__/   \_______/ 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: alc@gdstech.GRUMMAN.COM (Al Chang)
Subject: Re: Where's PCV valve on 88 5.0L Mustang? (or a Buick?)
Organization: Grumman Corporation
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 14:44:16 GMT

In article <1993Jan21.212344.2721@eos.arc.nasa.gov> jim-ra@eos.arc.nasa.gov (Jim Stevenson's reader) writes:


   Does anyone know where's the PCV valve on a 1988 5.0L 8 cylinder Mustang
   located?

   Thanks in advance.

Also, where is it for a '89 Buick 3800? I feel stupid, but I can't
find it in the service manual either. They sold me one, but the auto
parts store alway keep confusing the newer 3800's with the older 3.8L.
I have a metal tube going from the value cover to the throttle body's
base, but there is no way the pcv that I got can go in it.

Thanks also in advance.

Al
From: pt1e+@andrew.cmu.edu (Paul M Taylor)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: High curb idle
Date: 25 Jan 93 07:51:57 GMT
Article-I.D.: andrew.kfN2Wxi00WBN03vEVO
Organization: Sophomore, H&SS general, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA

80 Pinto 4cyl 4sp no computer.



In a effort to make my Pinto run smooth I replaced the orig carb with a
Rochester 2bbl from a v8 chevy.  the old style 2bbl not the dual jet
model. The problem is that the engine seems to always be on high idle. 
Double checked for vacuum leaks and that the throttle blades were not
hanging up.  everything was fine.  curb idle screw is all the way out. 
Nothing binding or hanging up.  When I let the clutch out with the brake
on and bring down the idle it will stay down.  Coming to a stop normally
and putting the clutch in results in the high idle again.  Engine has
101,000 with new cam, lifters, rockers and no work done on the
head(pistons,rings,etc.  Anyone have any clues?

thanks, Paul
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mgolden@cwis.unomaha.edu (Brian Golden)
Subject: Re: HELP:  Can rear end noise be adjusted out?
Organization: University of Nebraska at Omaha
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 07:36:35 GMT

bweddle@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu  writes:
> I have a 1983 Pontiac Trans Am am experiencing a "whining" sound coming from 
> the rear end.  I have already replaced the rear end TWICE in the past nine 
> months (used rear ends) due to their eventual failure after this whining sound
> started.  The noise is not bad yet, but I anticipate that the rear end will 
> have to be replaced in another 4 to 6 months.  Is there any adjustment that can
> be made in order to save this rear end before it gets any worse?  The mechanics
> I have talked to seem to think not, but I doubt their abilities.  Please help.
Not really.... The whining noise is probably a set of bearings going/gone bad.
The only real way to save your rear-end is to take it all apart and put in
new bearings...  It definately should be done soon.  I had a car that the
bearings went out on it, and one got stuck between two gears.... on the
interstate... doing 65...  Didn't make the car skid, but there was a pretty
loud bang when the axle snapped in half.
  Take the cover off of the rear end, and clean out all the metal shavings,
(trust me, there will be some!  :-)  and put new fluid in it.  This might
help some.  If / when you end up replacing the rear end again, make damn
sure that the whole thing is VERY clean.  Any dirt inside the rear end
can lead to premature failure.  Hope this helps!

Mike Golden - mgolden@cwis.unomaha.edu

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: tabg2553@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Thomas A. Brunner)
Subject: FREEWHEELING ENGINES
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 18:44:12 GMT

I posted about this a couple weeks ago.  I also believe it is an FAQ.
There are no generalizations which can be made about freewheeling engines.
The GM policy (in general, and no, I am no longer affiliated with GM) is
that if it does not free spin, it gets a chain.

The Quad 4 is NOT free-spinning.  I know.  It makes horrible noises when
things go boom.  And new Quad 4's have a dealer cost of $5700 these days.
And yes, the valves do get bent at interesting angles, and the pistons
do have their carbon deposits (along with some metal) removed.  I only
wish mine would've let go when I was turning 4000-6000+ RPM so that it
would have been a more impressive failure.

The Cadillac Northstar is free spinning (to the best of my knowledge).
The reason it has a chain is because it is supposed to be a service-free
engine for 100,000 miles.  That's why it gets platinum plugs.  My only
question is how much that service is going to cost at 100,000 miles.
I guess people that buy Cadillacs new never have a lease that lasts that
long anyway :-).

I do not know about the LT5, but it probably isn't long for this world
anyway.  The 3400 has a belt, and is free-spinning.

The only way to know for sure is to talk with someone knowledgeable or read
the manual.  If it says to replace the belt, I would do it.

Finally, IMHO it is just poor engineering to use a belt on an engine that
will self-destruct if the belt fails.  I know belts are quieter, and probably
easier to replace, but why would you leave a customer with a big expense
for not keeping up with routine maintenance?  I have seen customer engines
that were bought back by GM, and believe it or not, some people don't even
know to change the oil (at 40,000+ miles).  You can't punish people because
they are too lazy or ignorant to keep up with routine maintenance.


Thomas Brunner
tabg2553@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu
University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign Autolab
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Steven J Orlin)
Subject: Re: TH350 vs. TH400
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 17:07:35 GMT


I thought the TH700 and the TH7004R were both for rear wheel drive vehicles.

Am I wrong?

steve
-- 
"Chicks with bricks come, chicks with blocks come, chicks with bricks and 
blocks and clocks come."
Orlin.2@osu.edu                   -Dr. Seuss
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech