HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: X005CB@tamvm1.tamu.edu (Chris Barnes)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: Hunting ability in Labradors (long)
Date: 19 Aug 92 19:08:21 GMT
Article-I.D.: tamvm1.16848C6D8.X005CB
Organization: Texas A&M University

In article <16tl47INNmf3@moe.ksu.ksu.edu>
    terry@eece.ksu.edu (Terry Hull) writes:
 
>For people that don't have time for a dog, I frequently recommend getting
>a SandCast statue of their favorite breed.  (No ;-) here.)
 
Good advice.
 
 
>>Because
>>they *could* be getting one that IS "birdy" and should be used for
>>hunting/breeding.
>
>With Rottweilers, we can usually tell at 8 weeks old if a dog will be
>an outstanding working prospect.  Is this not true for Labs?  Can't
>the breeder find this extremely "birdy" dog before he sells it?
 
Typcally, yes; the breeder can tell if the dog will be birdy.  And IF
the pet buyer is buying from a breeder that cares, then it's not a
problem.  But most breeders don't care (note:  by breeder here, I mean
everyone that has a bitch produce a litter of pups, not just the
profess. or informed breeder).  Most breeders will sell any pup to
you that you pick out.....
 
 
>
>>As these dogs ARE rare, it should be prevented.
>
>Just how rare are they?  1 in 10?  1 in 50?  Even if "birdy" Labs are
>1 in 50, how many Labs were registered last year?  100,000+ right?
>That means 2,000+ "birdy" dogs registered in a single year?  Do we
>really *need* this many dogs added to the breeding population out of
>the puppies from a single year?  I realize we need more than this out
>of a single year to maintain current numbers of puppies, but don't we
>have an overabundance of puppies already?
 
An overabundance of puppies /= an overabundance of quality puppies.
To me, 2,000 quality pups seems to be a pretty small number....
 
      ----------------------------------------------
Chris Barnes            |
x005cb@tamvm1.tamu.edu  |  Only 13 more days until the start of
(409) 846-3273 (home)   |           hunting season (in Texas)
(409) 845-8454 (work)   |
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: amiranda@ariel.aero.org (Ann Miranda)
Subject: goof up on the last nasty letter post
Organization: The Aerospace Corporation; El Segundo, CA
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 23:29:39 GMT

	I wrote that I had to take Shelby to the vet every 2 weeks
for a minimum of 4 weeks, and possibly more.  I meant to say
I have to take Shelby every 2 weeks for a bath, for a minimum of
4 baths.   
	Ann
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: schalene@sequent.com (Schalene Dagutis)
Subject: Tips on Introducing a Second Dog
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems Inc.
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 92 19:05:46 GMT

This seems to be an almost weekly occurence....but I need the net's
advice yet again ;-)

We're picking up our second puppy the Saturday of Labor Day weekend,
and I'd like some tips on how to make sure his introduction to our
first dog is a pleasant one.

Pertinent Facts:

Max, our first dog, is a little over 7 months old.  He's in tact.  The
vet wants to wait another month or two before neutering him.  He's
submissive to other dogs in his obedience classes, but not a shaking 
shadow.  He likes to get to know them before running up an sniffing 
their rears!  We currently keep him in the kitchen when we're at work; 
when we're home he has the run of the house.  He's totally house trained.  

Our as yet un-named pup will be 10 weeks old when we pick him up.  I'm
planning on keeping them separated when we're gone for at least a few 
months until I'm confident that they're getting along.  

I'll be taking a week off from work after we get the pup and will pay
to have someone come in during the day to play with the dogs while
we're at work.

Here are my questions:

Should we take Max with us when we go to pick up the pup?  It's about
a 2.5 hour drive to the breeders.

If we don't take Max with us, should we stop at some neutral site; one
of us go get Max and introduce the dogs at this neutral site?

If we don't take Max with us, can we introduce them at our home?

When they are together, I know we need to watch carefully, but let
them work out their own pecking order.  How much time should we let
them spend together during the first few days?

I would like to put the pup in the kitchen during the day when we're
gone and put Max someplace else in the house.  Is this a good idea?
Will Max be upset?  Will he think I'm giving the new dog his spot?
Should I keep Max in the kitchen and put the pup someplece else?

We are planning not to walk the pup until he's had his third set of
shots; instead we'll exercise him in our large fenced in backyard.  So
we'll be walking Max separately until then.  We're also planning on
walking them separately until the little one has been through some
basic obedience and is used to a leash.  Is this a good idea?  My
thoughts are I don't want Max to re-learn all his bad leash habits.
Plus we'll be spending time alone with each dog (and I'll get much
more exercise!)

How do you keep the dogs out of each other's food?  

Sleeping arrangements shouldn't be a problem.  The pup will be in his
own crate beside the bed.  Max has bed privileges (he got them from my
husband).  

Anything else I should or shouln't do?

tia -- schalene
From: dittwil@bbs1984.chi.il.us (Bill Dittmann)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: Pet Store = Puppy Mill!
Date: 21 Aug 92 07:22:46 GMT
Organization: Not an Organization

In article <22469@sybase.sybase.com>, joe@sybase.com (Joseph Weinstein) writes:
>A pet store "against" puppy mills is like those "responsible
>drinking" ads from Busch.
>
>No reputable breeder will sell dogs to or through a pet store.
>Any normal breeder wants to know the dog owner, and maintain
>contact to continue to find out more about the dog as it grows.
>They need this information to judge how well they are breeding
>to type, in character and health. By definition, anyone who
>cranks out puppies without caring how they turn out is a puppy
>mill.
>
>Some puppy mills may be less tortuous than others, but they are
>all devoid of breeding predictability.
>
>joe
>
>--
>Joseph Weinstein  Sybase - 1650 65th Street, Emeryville Ca 94608
>                 joe@sybase.com   sun!sybase!joe   510-596-3620
>Disclaimer:      This might not even be *my* opinion! I may have
>                  changed my mind.

 
irresponsible yes, but to call them a puppy mill even if they give the dogs
proper and humane care is a little extreme. the title puppy mill implies
barbaric treatment to the dogs and a unfounded acusation like that borders on
defamation of character if you ask me. 

William Dittmann
Dittwil@bbs1984.chi.il.us
Dittwil@elof.iit.edu
Xref: sparky rec.pets.dogs:9889 rec.pets.cats:9908
From: tom@acuson.com (Thomas Fredericks)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs,rec.pets.cats
Subject: Introducing Cats and Dogs
Date: 19 Aug 92 17:19:36 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Acuson; Mountain View, California


	I currently have a 1 year old male samoyed and will soon be
	moving in with someone who has two cats.  Can anyone tell me
	about their experiences with having everyone live happily
	together.  The dog has not been exposed to cats before except
	when he sees one on the street and wants to chase it.  The cats
	have not been around dogs either.  So maybe someone could
	provide some insight into how to introduce them.
		Thanks,
			Tom...
From: primeaux@wham-o.cs.utk.edu (David Primeaux)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: dog digs holes
Date: 17 Aug 92 17:39:19 GMT
Organization: University of Tennessee, Knoxville - Department of Computer Science
Distribution: world
Reply-To: primeaux@wham-o.cs.utk.edu (David Primeaux)
NNTP-Posting-Host: wham-o.cs.utk.edu

Heretical response:  Why not just let the dog dig?

-- david
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: jkearns@ssd.intel.com (Jerry Kearns)
Subject: Crate training forever?  
Organization: Supercomputer Systems Division, Intel Corp.
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1992 21:16:36 GMT



I have a question regarding crate training philosophy: 

Once a puppy is crate-trained, can the crate ever be removed, or is itt
supposed to ALWAYS stay in the crate when the owner is not at home?  
My wife and I are gone a good portion of the day, and having a dog spend 
2/3 of its life in a crate even after it's trained seems cruel.

Once it is crate-trained, how do you train it to be housebroken without 
the crate?  Do you just decide to try it one day and let the puppy havee
the run of the house?  Do you let it stay out of the crate for a short 
time at first, then longer and longer?  Do you give it one small room 
at first, then gradually expand it?

It seems like there would have to be another training step - teaching the 
puppy to let you know when it needs to go out.  I know you'd think that 
once a puppy is trained, it would whine if it couldn't get outside to go, 
but when we tried it last time, our puppy didn't give us any clue, and we 
wouldn't know until it was too late.

Thanks!

Jerry
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: kjt34420@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Kristin J. Thommes)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: giving heartworm pills
Date: 18 Aug 92 03:52:46 GMT
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana

wmporter@jetson.uh.edu (Porter, William M.) writes:

>I'm giving our 13-week old Scottie Filaribits chewable tablets, half a tab
>(=30mg) a day. This is per the doctor's instructions. It was explained to me
>that I could do it this way (i.e., daily) or give little Henry a different pill
>once a month.

>Which option is better? And what happens if I >forget< to give Henry his pill
>one day? 

>William Porter  * * * Classical Languages: University of Houston
>Internet: wmporter@jetson.uh.edu /or/ CompuServe: 75430,1351

In answer to your first question, if you forget to give him his Filarabits
one day, if he is bitten by a mosquito carrying heartworm, he will be infected.
Filarabits work by giving the dog a certain amount of medication that lasts 
about 24 hours and will prevent heartworm disease if the dog is i

bitten by a
mosquito carrying heartworm.  Filarabits kill off the larvae transmitted
by the mosquito and therefore they do not develop into microfilaria
which become heartworms.  

The once-a-month medication, heartgard, works by killing off any larvae
that the dog may have been given in the past month.  

My view of the heartworm medication options is that, if you can remember
to give it every day, then do so.  But, if you forget, especially if it
is for about a weeks or so, you should switch to heartgard because it will
then kill the larvae he/she could have gotten when he/she was not under
protection from the filarabits.  Heartgard comes with stickers that you put 
on your calendar to remind you to give it every month.  And, I have my dogs
on heartgard simply because I know that i *do* forget to give the daily 
sometimes and I would rather not need to worry about the risk of either of 
them contracting the disease.

-- 
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: wmporter@jetson.uh.edu (William M. Porter)
Subject: housebreaking & the front door
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: University of Houston
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 07:32:00 GMT

Our thirteen (almost fourteen) week old Scottie, Henry, is doing
pretty well with his crate training. We have very few accidents
and I blame most of them on us rather than Henry. Sometimes we
wait a little too long to take him out, and then one of my daughters
plays with him and gets him excited, and, well, then it happens,
usually rather suddenly.

And usually on the living room rug.

My question is twofold. HOW do we teach Henry to go to the front
door and indicate his need by whining (or just by sitting there)?
And second, WHEN will he start doing this?

Let me describe what we do know. When it's time to take him ouside,
whether he's going from his crate or not, we start asking, "Does 
Henry need to go oouutsiide???" I usually take him to the front  door
and crack it slightly while I put the leash on his collar. That
allows him (I'm guessing) to anticipate the trip outside. Sometimes
I even make whining noises as I kneel there, putting on the leash.
But he has yet to go over to the door himself. Am I doing something
wrong? It would be nice to know that success will be achieved any
day now.

BTW, in case it's not obvious, we have no prior experience with dogs.
Thanks in advance.

William Porter  * * * Classical Languages: University of Houston
Internet: wmporter@jetson.uh.edu /or/ CompuServe: 75430,1351

Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs,co.general
From: kevin@traffic.den.mmc.com (Kevin Rodgers)
Subject: Front Range heartworm outbreak
Reply-To: kevin@traffic.den.mmc.com
Organization: Martin Marietta Western Internal Systems, Technical Operations
Distribution: co
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 18:51:32 GMT


From today's Denver Post (by Johanna B. Maes), reprinted without
permission:

   Potentially fatal heartworm disease has hit Denver area dogs,
alarming experts who said yesterday it is the first time the maladay has
infiltrated the metro region.

   The disease is transmitted by mosquitoes, whose numbers have
increased this season due to the moist summer weather.

   Veterinary officials said the disease has been a problem in southern
Colorado the past two years, but this year there have been cases
reported in Denver, Fort Collins, Colorado Springs, and Greeley.

   So far, five cases have been reported in the Denver metro area, but
more cases could exist because clinics are not required to report the
cases ...


The article also states:

... Veterinarians are advising dog owners to use preventive medicines
...

... If an infected dog is bitten by still another mosquito, the insect
becomes capable of transferring the disease to other insects and
animals.


I contacted my veterinarian in Boulder, who told me that, according to
the state parasitology lab in Ft. Collins, the incidence in Boulder
remains "very low".  He also advised me that unless my dogs spend more
than 12 hours a day outside in an area where mosquitoes are a problem,
or travel to regions where heartworm disease is more common, the current
risk doesn't justify putting them on a preventive medicine.
-- 
Kevin Rodgers				kevin@traffic.den.mmc.com
Martin Marietta MS A16401		(303) 790-3971
116 Inverness Dr. East
Englewood CO 80112 USA			GO BUFFS!
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: srlee@beta.lanl.gov (Stephen R Lee)
Subject: Re: Dog Functionality (was Re: looking for new dog suggestions)
Organization: Los Alamos National Laboratory
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 19:18:42 GMT

>In article <168419024.X005CB@tamvm1.tamu.edu> X005CB@tamvm1.tamu.edu (Chris Barnes) writes:
>>tittle@ics.uci.edu (Cindy Tittle Moore) writes:

[stuff deleted]

>>My conclusion is therefore that IT DOESN'T MATTER WHAT THE DOG DOES.

>One question:  then why have different breeds ?

The different breeds of dogs each have the *potential* to excell in a variety
of different tasks.  I do not think that this is synonymous with *having*
to excell in these different tasks, or *forcing* someone who is not planning
to breed the dog to participate in these different tasks.  Im my opinion,
it is the responsibility of the breeder to maintain the proper characteristics
of the breed in question, and sell with spay/neuter contracts if they do
not want specific dogs in specific homes to be bred.

I understand your point, I just don't think it is quite as black and
white as you have painted it.

[stuff deleted]

-- 
============================================================
Stephen R. Lee                 | 
OooWoo Racing Kennel           | I'd rather be driving sled
E-Mail: srlee@beta.lanl.gov    | dogs.
From: jtchew@csa3.lbl.gov (JOSEPH T CHEW)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: dog digs holes
Date: 17 Aug 92 20:34:48 GMT
Organization: Lawrence Berkeley Laboratory - Berkeley, CA, USA
Reply-To: jtchew@csa3.lbl.gov
NNTP-Posting-Host: 128.3.254.198
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.3-4   

>Heretical response:  Why not just let the dog dig?

Depends on the dog.  And the yard and the owner.  Some owners are
into gardens and landscaping or just nice lawns, and it galls them 
to see the holes dug.  Some yards are more loss than others; when
you look out the window and see a roostertail of dirt containing 
iris bulbs that had been in there for decades, you might well start
looking into ways to dogproof the yard and/or yardproof the dog.

Last but not least, some dogs dig a few little holes, or re-use 
the same warming/cooling pit consistently, but others make your 
entire yard look like the Ypres salient circa 1919.  (And let's 
not forget the escape artists who go under an unfortified fence 
half an hour after you leave for work, then spend the rest of the 
day in the dog pound, or worse, frolicking on the highway.)

By happy coincidence, one of Cindy Tittle Moore's just-posted FAQ 
sheets has some advice on bringing lawn order to your mining camp.
I might add that burying dog dung (there's usually a goodly supply
available :) in the holes, and incorporating other corrections, will
usually help -- at least the dog won't dig in that spot anymore.

--Joe
"Just another personal opinion from the People's Republic of Berkeley"
From: nardy@llnl.gov (Dominic Nardy)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: looking for new dog suggestions
Date: 11 Aug 92 19:43:21 GMT
Organization: ccsg @ llnl

It seems that all of the previous postings have missed the point of the 
original poster.  They were confused as to what breed to get.  The 
decision should be based on the environment of a person's home and yard, 
the age and personalities of the family members, the daily routines of the 
family members and finally with the personality and characteristics of a 
particular desired breed.  You want to find a breed who will do well in 
the environment it will live in and with the daily routines and with the 
personalities of the family members. In other words, find a match between 
what the world is like at home with a dog  breed that will be the dog you 
desire in your world.  What works for one person may or may not work for 
others.  If you buy what others think it the right breed, you take a 
chance on getting the wrong dog for you.  Also it wouldn't be right for 
the dog either.

One last comment------ not every dog can be aggressive to perform 
protective duties.  A dog from any breed can be trained to be a guard dog, 
but not every dog can be made to be one.  I have had many friends who have 
had dogs from breeds accepted as protective types and have found their 
dogs not be very good at being very protective. 

Just make sure that your choice is wise ------ before you get the dog.

Dom
Organization: University of Illinois at Chicago
Date: Saturday, 22 Aug 1992 12:27:49 CDT
From: Francine Cannarozzi <U58664@uicvm.uic.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Mailmen and Dogs

Our dog has always barked very aggresively at the mailman (UPS man).
Our regular mailman knows him and knows he is harmless.  We have a
6' fence all around our property, no way our dog can get out.  Our
mailbox is on the OUTSIDE of the fence.

This morning I happened to be standing in the window when the mailman
came by.  It was not our regular carrier. Anyway, Beast barked at him
while he put the mail in our box.  The mailman then went inside the
neighbor's fence to deliver their mail, and Beast went over to that
side of the yard,  barking.  At this point the mailman was out of my
view, and suddenly, Beast yelped, jumped back, and ran up the steps to
me.  His left eye was completely closed, and he was pawing at his head
trying to get something off. I assumed he was sprayed by the mailman
with some dog repellant.  I immediately rinsed his eye and head off,

he was salivating, and his heart was beating fast.  By the time I
calmed him down, the mailman was no where in site.

What is in those dog repellants the mailmen carry?  Should I/can I
do anything about this?

Any experiences/suggestions welcome. Thanks.
From: X005CB@tamvm1.tamu.edu (Chris Barnes)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: help with retriever problem
Date: 19 Aug 92 19:15:08 GMT
Article-I.D.: tamvm1.16848C86E.X005CB
Organization: Texas A&M University

In article <19AUG92.13484761.0193@UNBVM1.CSD.UNB.CA>
   LS45@UNB.CA (LS45) writes:
 
>Sorry for intruding, but after rereading the original post, I believe
>the problem was actually chewing things when the owner was home.
 
 
Hmm...I don't still have that post handy.  IF the chewing was
with the owner at home, then obviously more "normal" measures
can/should be used.
 
      ----------------------------------------------
Chris Barnes            |
x005cb@tamvm1.tamu.edu  |  Only 13 more days until the start of
(409) 846-3273 (home)   |           hunting season (in Texas)
(409) 845-8454 (work)   |
From: winders@aux.support.apple.com (Scott Winders)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: looking for new dog suggestions
Date: 17 Aug 92 21:34:35 GMT
Followup-To: rec.pets.dogs
Organization: Apple Computer, Inc.

In article <168469473.X005CB@tamvm1.tamu.edu>, X005CB@tamvm1.tamu.edu
(Chris Barnes) wrote:
> 
> In article <winders-140892150619@macwinders.support.apple.com>
>     winders@aux.support.apple.com (Scott Winders) writes:
>  
> >If someone wants to take a hunting dog and make it a perfect companion,
> >let them.
>  
>  
> No.  Not without a fight.  Not with MY breed.
>  

Chris,

It is not your breed!!!  You did not bring it into existence.  You did
not create it. It may be the breed you like and choose to use as a
hunting dog, but it is not your breed; you do not own it!!

You do not have the right to decide how someone is to live their lives
nor do you have the right to tell anyone how to "use" their dog. You
do not have the right to prevent someone from buying a particular breed
of dog, even if they are going to use a hunting do as "just" a pet.

Man domesticated the dog to be his companion, in work and play. Most men
do not work in the field anymore. But any dog is more than content to be
mans companion in any situation.

Please get your nose out of the air and act like a man, not a elitist
pig!!

Scott Winders
winders@aux.support.apple.com

"My opinions are my own, not my employer's"
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs