HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: nrlfs1.nrl.navy.mil (Judy Karpen)
Subject: questions: lilies, containers, etc.
Organization: NRL
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 16:11:56 GMT

I have a few questions for you helpful people out there. 

1) Has anyone tried growing lilies (not daylilies) or other bulbs
in containers?  I have no yard space left but can put more plants
on my deck. I've got these bulbs sitting in my fridge until I can
figure out what to do with them... Can I pot them up now and keep
them in my shed over the winter (we have mostly mild winters here
in Maryland)?  I've read that bulbs won't last more than a season
in a container, then should be planted in ground, but what about 
lilies?  I'd like to leave them there if possible. NOTE I don't 
want to force the bulbs, just let them grow and flower at the right
time.

2) When is the best time to transplant dwarf evergreens (Hinoki
cypress, mugho pine)?  I'm in Zone 7, if that matters. 

3) My neighbor is growing some great greens but neither of us can figure
out what they are.  They are obviously brassica family, kind of a 
mild mustart flavor, but have very fine-structured leaves (sorry I
can't recall the right botanical term --- sort of like those cut-leaf
japanese maple leaves but green and much bigger).  Also the leaves
are soft, more like mustard greens or even lettuce than kale or 
collards. The color ranges from lighter yellowish green in newer or
central leaves to a dark green. My best guess is mizuna, which 
I've only seen in a catalog so it's a wild shot. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Judy Karpen
karpen@nrlfs1.nrl.navy.mil
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: mjf@col.hp.com (Mike Fiorella)
Subject: What to plant with tulips
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 21:14:50 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division



  I've recently relocated to Colorado Springs, CO, and I'm just
about to plant a bed of tulips. Since they're not going to 
supply me with color all summer, I need to plant something
else along with them. I'd like to plant another type of annual,
but I don't know what will do well with the tulips. I was
thinking of roses, but since I've never seen them together, I'm
afraid the roses wouldn't be too good for the tulips. Any tips
or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Mike Fiorella  fiorella_m@apollo.hp.com


 
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: bae@gpu.utcs.utoronto.ca (Beverly Erlebacher)
Subject: Re: Apple tree question
Organization: UTCS Public Access
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 22:21:03 GMT

In article <1992Oct14.174023.27701@njitgw.njit.edu> smt2626@hertz.njit.edu (sylvia m tou mfen stnt) writes:
>
>
>I was considering planting an apple tree in my yard, apples I could
>pick and eat (or at least cook with).  Before I do this I would
>like to have other people's opinion as to whether I am about to make
>a big mistake or not.  Other than having to "collect" the rotten apples
>that fall off and have been eaten off by animals and bugs what
>other problems would I be facing.  Thanks.
>
>		-- sylvia

You can get dwarf trees that grow only 6-10 feet high (depending on how
you prune them).  They are easy to care for because you don't need to work
from a ladder, they produce a more reasonable amount of fruit and they bear
at a younger age.  You might want to get several different varieties, both
to guarantee pollination and so that you can have apples over a longer season.
Several dwarfs will fit in the space that one full-size tree would need.

There are a lot of mail-order nurseries that sell dwarf fruit trees.  Pick
up some gardening magazines this fall and winter - most of them will have
ads.  You can order catalogs and read about what's available.

Your public library probably has back issues of gardening magazines (e.g
Organic Gardening, National Gardening, Horticulture, Fine Gardening).  There
are a lot of good books about backyard fruit growing, and your library likely
has several.

I think it's a super idea - go for it!

Beverly Erlebacher
Toronto, Ontario Canada
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: amz@iguana.cis.ohio-state.edu (Arnold M Zwicky)
Subject: Re: forcing maple seeds to germinate
Followup-To: rec.gardens
Summary: breeding true?
Organization: osu, outil, lsa, stanford,...
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 15:21:32 GMT


kay klier observes that the best thing to do is to plant maple
seeds immediately.  but the original poster was hoping to get new
maples like the especially beautiful specimens that are providing
the seeds.  our experience is that, for japanese red maples at
least, the seeds do not breed true, so you might have to plant a
whole lot and see which ones turn out to be nice.

about ten years ago jacques collected seeds from neighborhood
trees that were particularly lovely, and also seedlings from
a gorgeous tree on a family friend's property.  the next spring
we had quite a variety of seedlings, none of them anywhere nearly
as nice as the parent trees.  some of them were more green than
red, most of them had rather coarse leaves, instead of the
delicately cut leaves of the parent trees, and so on.

we were intended to keep a couple of them anyway, but that spring
the rabbits ate them all to the ground.  and again the next spring.
the spring after that we were in a household crisis and didn't
do anything except minimal maintenance in the garden, and somehow
we never got back to the japanese red maples, though we did get
two purple sand cherries and a purple smoke bush (cotinus), so we
do not want for some variety in leaf color.  still, japanese red
maples are elegant plants.

arnold

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: gwb@cbnews.cb.att.com (gregory.blum)
Subject: Re: Forcing oak acorns to germinate
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 20:12:56 GMT


I'm really rather suprised to hear that several people have had trouble
getting acorns to germinate..... in my garden, they end up coming up
by the scores each spring where squirrels seem to have done voluntary
sowing.  They grow in flower boxes, in the middle of the yard, in the
flower beds, and even under the deck (though these obviously peter out
rather quickly due to lack of light).

Among the most interesting to me are the ones that show up in the heavily
mulched (about 6 inches) flower beds..... most of these never hit dirt,
but are placed an inch or two down in the mulch.  I guess the tap root
manages to plant itself into the dirt in rather short order, because I've
gently tugged at a few if these and they are QUITE firmly root now at
the end of the season.

Most of these volunteers have to go (especially the ones in the lawn and
the flower boxes), so I pulled them out as I found them.  A few, though,
I decided to leave just because I found them so intiguing.... I really
do have rather a small yard and nothing rational to do with the dozen
or so seedlings that I let grow, but they are awfully attractive and
there's something somewhat endearing about these uninvited (but not
necessarily unwanted) volunteers.

I did like the idea of the oak bonsai that someone mentioned.... I may
have to try that next year.

I'm also curious to exactly which variety of oak my little squirrel
friends have provided me with, so I'll be off to the library for a
tree identification guide (by the way, are there a lot of hybrids of
these things, or is this likely to be a pure species?? I am rather
near a smallish wooded area that is the most likely source, but I
guess that doesn't really mean anything).

I guess my advice on germinating them would have to be to plant them
around outside and let them overwinter.  Since squirrels don't seem to
be able to find the ones that THEY planted, it seems that they shouldn't
bother the ones that YOU plant, but that's probably too logical for
squirrels.  Anyway, good luck......

Greg Blum
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: elephant manure
From: A.S.Chamove@massey.ac.nz (A.S. Chamove)
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 92 01:39:07 GMT
Organization: Massey University, Palmerston North, New Zealand
X-Reader: NETNEWS/PC Version 2c

In Gabon we used elephant manure on our vegies because it was easy to
find.  It worked fine and no one died.  Dont know about NKP analysis.
sounds like the price is right.

-- 
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Arnold Chamove
Massey University Psychology
Palmerston North, New Zealand
From: gwb@cbnews.cb.att.com (gregory.blum)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Questions about Orchids and Mums
Date: 15 Oct 92 18:08:48 GMT
Article-I.D.: cbnews.1992Oct15.180848.28624
Organization: AT&T

In article <1bk7h2INNb43@grapevine.EBay.Sun.COM> kimf@amaryllis.EBay.Sun.COM (Kim Foster) writes:
>I have couple questions and hope that someone on the net can help
>me.
>
>1.  I received an ad from Willow Nursery Sales in Westport, CT
>    about the exotic Hawaiian Orchid bulb (Arundina Bambusifolia).
>    I couldn't find this name in the Western Garden Book.  So,
>    I have no idea what is it.  The price on the ad is 4 bulbs
>    for $2.99.  The ad also said that this is a gorgeous plant  
>    with rich fragrance and bloom on any season of the year.  
>    This sounds too good to be true.  I would appreciate any
>    comments you have about the Willow Nursery and/or the 
>    plant.

I've seen some similar ads of late and have been rather puzzled by them...
the Arundina Bambusifolia that I'm familiar with is a VERY large plant
(up to 4 feet or so) that's not really terribly suitable as a houseplant.
It also needs rather more sunlight than one is likely to be able to provide
without a greenhouse (or with one for that matter in some areas).  The
terminology that they use is also a little confusing.  Arundina, like almost
all sympodial orchids, have pseudobulbs that grow from a creeping rhizome--
NOT true bulbs.  Do they mean that you get a plant with 4 pseudobulbs,
or 4 1-pseudobulb plants, or what?  Either way I truly doubt that whatever
you get would be of blooming size;  these things can take 7 or so years to
bloom from seed, and they're probably pretty young plants that they're
selling at that price..... I'd guess 2 to 5 years from blooming.  They
are rather fragrant, but they certainly don't have blooms on them at all
times as the as seems to imply.  Personally I'd steer clear of them, though
I will admit to being curious.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: Bob Kyweriga <bobk2@cfsmo.honeywell.com>
Subject: Forcing fressia - varieties available?
To: rec.gardens
Posted-Date: Mon, 12 Oct 92 15: 08:58 CDT
Mailer: Elm [revision: 66.25]
Cc: bobk@blkbird.CFSMO.Honeywell.COM
Organization: Honeywell Systems & Research Center
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 20:08:58 GMT
Received-Date: Mon, 12 Oct 92 15: 08:39 CDT



	I was planning to force some fressia corms this winter,
	and was wondering what varieties are available.  I found 
	that McClurie & Zimmerman and the Wayside catalogs
	carried the corms.  Can they be found in any other catalogs.


	Thanks in advance.
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Books!
Date: 15 Oct 92 17:52:01 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

In article <1992Oct15.170825.118791@watson.ibm.com>, clarke@watson.ibm.com (Ed Clarke) writes:
> 
> Ok, that does it!  One thing this group really needs is a review of some
> specific books.  Kay mentioned "Hortus Third" before; I bought it and it's
> wonderful.  I did a small review of "How to know the Hornworts and 
> Liverworts" a while ago but never posted it.  It'd sure be nice if people
> would post review of outstanding books (FAQ fodder?) ...
> 
> Information in reviews should contain ISBN, author, size, cost and publisher
> as well as whether or not you think the book is valuable.  I suspect that
> reviews should only be of GOOD books with only minor comments on bad ones.
> ( i.e. I didn't like xxxxx because it recommended poison ivy as a ground
> cover.  yyyyy has nice pictures and would make a good coffee table book
> but has no real information in it )

Yup, Ed, I've been collecting reviews of books for the FAQ list-- just haven't
gotten 'em put together.  I generally don't mention specific titles/ISBN's
etc., because I'm often writing from memory and am too lazy to go look 
the book up -- or I've loaned it to someone (the Klier Memorial Traveling
Library, my students call it, as I hand them a book and say, "Here, I 
think you'd like this one".)

When there's really basic info that's widely available, like photos of
nutrient deficiencies, I tend to mention likely places to find it, knowing
that every public library likely has that information, it's just in different
books.

I'd love to get a better sense of the books other folks on the net consider
important (there goes my book budget again, though, 'cause I'll buy
'em too).

I'd also be willing to contribute my "library database" of gardening/plant/
soils books, but these are only subject indexed...  and many of them are
out of print, and many are in my library simply because I could pick up
a copy of YYY for $0.50, but a new copy of ZZZ (a better written book) is
$89.95...   Any interest in that sort of thing????  Or should we deal
strictly with books in print????   Or should I contribute it after heavy
editing????

Anyhow, folks, time to let us all in on the books you consider indispensable,
a good read, or just plain fun.  We know the westerners love the Sunset
Western Gardens Book, but what are some good books on kitchen gardens?
victorian gardens?  garden design?  annuals? getting kids interested in 
plants?  etc, etc, etc....

Kay
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Boojums growing in my house.
Date: 15 Oct 92 08:57:17 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

"the snark was a boojum, you know..."      (approximate quote)
        lewis carroll, hunting of the snark
From: kyd@kali.EBay.Sun.COM (Karen deWeeger)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Luffa squash (sponge)
Date: 12 Oct 92 18:39:17 GMT
Reply-To: kyd@kali.EBay.Sun.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
NNTP-Posting-Host: kali.ebay.sun.com

When I grew luffa, I let the vines climb up a trellis. Being a low maintenance
gardener (the brown thumb type) I just let the plants do their thing. Once the vines
started to die I hung the gourds from the trellis (to keep them from resting on the
wall) and let them dry themselves out. In a month or so the skin was gone and they were
ready for use (the seeds shook out easily). Any brown spots seem to have come if
they rested on the wall while drying.

	-kyd

	
---
 Karen Y. deWeeger  (kyd@kali.EBay.Sun.COM)       (:>
                                                ~(_)~
- - - - - - - - - - - - -- - - - - - - - - - - - ""- - - - - -
From: ecologycntr@igc.apc.org (Ecology Center)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Boojums growing in my house.
Date: 14 Oct 92 16:03:00 GMT
Nf-ID: #N:cdp:1453300093:000:433
Nf-From: cdp.UUCP!ecologycntr    Oct 14 09:03:00 1992


I got a little pile of Idria columnaris seed at the Arizona-Sonora desert
museum in Tucson last week: they're sprouting nicely in a bonsai tray
filled with light commercial potting soil even as we "speak". 

Has anyone grown these critters before? FYI- these plants are known commonly
as Boojums (Booji?), and are natives of Baja California, in the ocotillo
family (I forget the Latin. Kay?)

Any tips from other boojophiles?

Chris
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: london@calypso.uucp (Larry London)
Subject: Gardening/farming information access at SUNSITE.UNC.EDU, update-10/12/92
Organization: University of North Carolina, Chapel Hill
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 20:10:14 GMT
From: lynx@surrey.amigans.gen.nz (Lynsey Gedye)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: ants!
Date: 8 Oct 92 11:27:06 GMT
Organization: Prime Line, Wanganui, New Zealand

In article <lc4nqmINN1fo@exodus.Eng.Sun.COM> hesed@shekinah.Eng.Sun.COM (Michael Brumm) writes:
>Does anyone have ideas on how to control large ant populations?  They're taking
>over almost every plant in my garden!  

  Hi Mike

  Sometimes we get ants here, in the house.  We make up a 50/50 mix of
  borax and honey, and leave a milk bottle lid or two in the most infested
  areas.  The ants rip into it for a few days and then they seem to get er,
  diverted.  We then clean around the area carefully.

  I suspect ants send out "explorer" ants to suss out food supplies.  Then,
  IMHO the workers follow the smell of the footprints of the "explorers".
  I can't think of any other reason why they'd follow the set trails.
  I figure it's some sort of chemical/hormone/pheramone substance.  So what
  we do is clean off any trails we can find using a disinfectant.  I think
  the chemical trail becomes distorted - re-writes the ant's ROM's.

  It maybe that ants are very smell orientated - dead ants sure don't smell
  very attractive - perhaps the disinfectant acts as a (dare I say it?)
  repellant - =:()!!

--            *        ,* 
             .|      *'                  wanganui - new zealand
            *-|-*                             39.56'S, 175.02'E
              *
              lynx@surrey.amigans.gen.nz    lynx@amigans.gen.nz
From: tony@scotty.dccs.upenn.edu (Anthony Olejnik)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: HELP! What to do about insects (flying ants?) in lawn?
Date: 12 Oct 92 14:51:21 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Pennsylvania

Subject line says it all.

This past weedend, I noticed hundreds of small insects in my lawn.
I don`t know if they are also in my neighbor`s lawn.
I`m not sure what they are, but they look like flying ants. (ants w/ wings).
I don`t see any mud tunnels around my house, so I assuming (praying) that
they`re not termites.  (do termites fly?  These insects seem to fly
occasionally).

They`re extremely easy to kill.  Just about any insect killing spray we
had in the house killed them (and my wife and I used up everything that we
had since there were so many).  However, they appear to be coming from
the ground.  I could see rather large 1/2" holes every now and them in the
lawn.  The `flying ants' seem to be coming from these holes.  When we
sprayed them, they looked like they were trying to get back to the hole.

I went to the local `home owner' store and bought more lawn inset killing
spray. In addition, I got some lawn insect killing (solid) chemical which
I placed in my drop-spreader and placed some over my entire lawn (I followed
the instructions which indicated to do the whole lawn (not just the visable
spots where the holes are)).

I don`t know how long they`ve been festering.  Its been a while since I
mowed my lawn (2 weeks ?) and this is the first time I`ve ever seen them.

Q: What could they be?
   Are they dangerous/harmful to the house/lawn?
   How do I get rid of them?

Any help would be *GREATLY* appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

--tony
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: Bob.Batson@mtask.omahug.org (Bob Batson)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Wildflower seed sources?
Date: 14 Oct 92 16:23:39 CST
Reply-To: bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org
Organization: Multitasking Systems, Kansas City
Followup-To: rec.gardens

moody@e4.ius.cs.cmu.edu (James Moody) writes:

 > Thanks to all who replied to my groundcover querey last week.  Now,
 > does anyone have handy a name and phone number for a wildflower farm?

                              [TEXT DELETED]

PUTNEY NURSERY, INC.                    [CAT $1, deductible]
	Route 5                               [from first order]
	Putney, VT 05346                      [Min. Order - $6]
Sells wildflower seeds only

THE WILDFLOWER SOURCE                   [CAT $1, deductible]
	P.O. Box 312                          [from first order]
	Fox Lake, IL 60020
Sells plants-only of hardy Native Orchids, Asarums & Trilliums, Native
Woodland Plants & Hardy Ferns.

NATIVE GARDENS                          [CAT $1]
	5737 Fisher Lane                      [Min. Order - $10]
	Greenback, TN 37742


*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*

Bob Batson
bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org
From: langston@langston.cs.utk.edu (Mike Langston)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Dwarf apple trees
Date: 16 Oct 92 14:50:59 GMT
Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of Tennessee
Distribution: world
Reply-To: langston@langston.cs.utk.edu (Mike Langston)
NNTP-Posting-Host: langston.cs.utk.edu

keith rogers writes:

<anecdotes about pruning and personal opinions about apple rootstocsks 
deleted>

it was kind of keith to take the time to try to educate the net on 
pome growing, but i fear his opinions and the facts weren't always 
made distinct from one another 

as an example, 

> Avoid M101 and M111

surely he meant mm106, not mm101 -- anyway, this advise is merely
his opinion, not any sort of statement of fact or even particularly
good advise in general

for many sites, mm106 is preferred because it is thought to induce 
early bearing (i'm not so sure on that from my experience) -- for 
others sites, mm111 is preferred because of its superior anchoring 
ability (i'm pretty convinced on this point) -- ask around and see
how many folks have bought from homeowner-oriented catalogs such as 
starks (who don't like to say more than something like "semi-dwarf" 
or "dwarf"), and unknowingly get m7a rootstocks, which are good in 
many respects but susceptable to wind damage -- but i digress

> Go for M9 and M27...
> If you want to try a fence, trellis or espalier setup

IMHO, it's likely that you'll *have to* set up some sort of support 
system for these -- commercial growers are nearing the 1000-trees-per-acre 
mark (often because of fast, high yields and because of reduced liability
insurance when pyo operations don't use ladders) -- but the trellis
systems required due to pittiful rootstock anchoring can cost a bundle

anyway this is really a fairly complex subject -- bottom line: if you 
want the facts, read read read -- i also suggest asking the advise of 
commercial orchardists (not backyard enthusiasts) in your area 

even pros who write for "american fruit grower" (a handy pub) often 
repeat the old saw only semi-jokingly that "it takes 10 years to learn 
how to grow a proper apple"

this is in no way entended as a flame -- really -- it is just good to 
bear in mind that the stuff that pops up on usenet is free, and you 
frequently get what you pay for, especially IMHO when "IMHO" is omitted 

-- 
mike langston <langston@cs.utk.edu>
department of computer science, university of tennessee
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: Mike King
Subject: Re: Control of fungus gnats
Organization: Bell-Northern Research
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 12:55:36 GMT

In article <Oct06.221848.14429@yuma.ACNS.ColoState.EDU>
lauras@picea.CFNR.ColoState.EDU (Laura Stump) writes:
>I've been reading the comments on how to eradicate fungus gnats
>(a common problem in the soil of some houseplants), and no one
>has yet mentioned the much less toxic alternative to Malathion
>that I have successfully used for these pests.  A strain of
>bacillus thuringiensis (a biological larvicide) has been
>developed specifically for fungus gnats, and it is sold under the
>trade name of "Gnatrol" by organic garden product companies (I
>think we ordered ours from Gardens Alive).  I highly recommend it
>.... I can't see using something like Malathion at all if there is
>an effective, reasonably-priced, organic alternative, and this
>particularly applies to plants that hang around inside the house
>with me!  I can supply an address for ordering this product upon
>request.
>
>Laura Stump (Colorado State University)
>

Try letting the surface of the soil dry out a bit and then disturb the
surface (sratch it with a fork). This destroys the eggs. I also use "Sticky
Strips" dotted around in strategic locations.     Mike King.

Newsgroups: rec.gardens