HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: rulon@ibms19.scri.fsu.edu (Phil Rulon)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Speedo and tach in '73 BMW 2002
Date: 30 Sep 92 19:15:10 GMT
Organization: SCRI, Florida State University


thompsje@craft.camp.clarkson.edu (Jeffrey E. Thompson) writes

>I read an article a while ago that said that the newer BMWs have
>electronic speedos and tachs, but when did they start to have them ?
>I ask because I noticed that when I shut my 2002 off the tach drops to
>zero before the engine has dropped 100rpm, which would be consistent with
>electronic behavior.  But if the speedometer is electronic, it would read
>positive mph when traveling in reverse, which it doesn't.
>
>I know the systems are independent of one another, but it would make sense
>if they were both the same type. (ie both electronic or both analog)
>does anybody know which is which and why ??

Electric speedos are a fairly recent mod to the BMW line (mid 80s?) I've
had several 2002s and they all had Mechanical speedos and electric tachs
(ignition primary circuit). Your tach drops off because the unit takes 12V dc
from the ignition switch, only the signal is read off the points (hall sensor).

Phil Rulon                                   rulon@mailer.scri.fsu.edu
Supercomputer Computations Research Institute
Florida State University
Tallahassee                                  audio  (904) 644 7008
From: michaeln@hpcvnb.CV.HP.COM (Mike_Nason)
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 92 03:42:36 PDT
Subject: Re: What's wrong with it?-Ford F150 1986
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Corvallis, Oregon
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

try some gas, No I'm not being an ass, but check and see if it has muliple
tanks and if by chance the switch got knocked to the empty tank. Then pull
the distributor cap and see if it has moisture in it. last you might what to
check the fuel filter. 
  I know, but recheck them anyway. mike
From: jhaines@eniac.seas.upenn.edu (Jason Haines)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: AIR pumps
Date: 26 Sep 92 06:27:13 GMT
Organization: University of Pennsylvania


	I am trying to find out the reasons that
pre-catalytic converter cars in this country have
AIR pumps.
	On a catalytic converter equipped car, the AIR pump
provides oxygen to aid the reaction of the exhuast gases over the
catalyst.  Also it dilutes the gases if too much fuel gets through
which protects the catalytic converters.  It also has an effect on
the warm up cycle on computer controled cars by tricking the sensors
into thinking something else (I mostly understand this part - but this
isn't my question - although I am always happy to learn something).
	On a non-catalytic converter cars I have trouble seeing how the
AIR pump doesn't do anything other than dilute the exhaust gases and 
reduce the measured emmissions - but that once the exhaust reaches the
atmosphere the emissions would be the same as without the pump.
	
(the only thing I can think of is that the exhaust gases are hotter in the
exhaust and that the AIR pump provides oxygen to react with at the elevated 
temperatures, which could reduce CO and NO emissions - but I am 
not sure if this wouldn't be the same once the exhaust had time to
mix with the atmosphere)

all info appreciated


------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jason R. Haines		     University of Pennsylvania (SEAS & Wharton)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
(215) 387-5607		      -   Red '90 Mustang LX 5.0  
			      - Blue '71 Rotary Powered Datsun 510 	
3rd floor		      - 
249 South 44th Street	      -  These are the opinions of my
Philadelphia, PA 19104-2945   -   employer, I'm self employed.
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: tmkk@uiuc.edu (Khan)
Subject: Re: Mustang Cobra Article C/D Oct
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 15:21:58 GMT


In article <1992Sep30.143003.4509@galileo.cc.rochester.edu> awds_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (ClarkKent) writes:
>
> 
>I noticed something interesting while reading Car and Driver's blurb
>on the new Mustang Cobra.  It stated that various engine mods had
>bumped up the horsepower (I believe it said 40 over the stock 5.0),
>going on to say according to Ford's new power standard, the stock
>5.0l engine only outputs 205bhp.  Any thoughts on this?  I doubt this
>is the same gross vs. net horsepower thread, comments welcome.

Ford has found a "new" way to measure horsepower which is supposed to be
more indicative of the actual power delivered to the rear wheels (or
something like that). Under this new measurement system, the Mustang
produces 205bhp (which is the same as the 225bhp measured the "old"
way).

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dje@needle.Berkeley.EDU (Don Eilenberger)
Subject: Re: Any harm if I put too much engine oil?
Reply-To: dje@needle.Berkeley.EDU (Don Eilenberger)
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 92 17:18:38 GMT

In article <1992Oct05.150144.19241@eng.umd.edu>, naiming@eng.umd.edu (Naiming Shen) writes:
|> 
|> I changed the engine oil yesterday for my Honda. It suppose to take
|> 3.7 quarters. So I poured 3 and half bottle of oil in. When I checked
|> the stick, It was about half an inch above the upper limit mark.
|> I'm wondering any harm can be done by this? 
|> thanks in advance.
|> 
|> Naiming,
|> 


MMMMMMMM........ could be harmful..... but not necessarily...

Most engines can tolerate a 1/2 quart high oil without any
real problems.. but perhaps yours can't.

Problems which can occur:

Oil foaming due to connecting rods churning the oil - will lead to
poor lubrication (air in the oil) and eventual engine damage.

Seals could be damaged if oil is under some pressure where it
shouldn't be..

BUT.. in MOST instances - a half inch (usually about 1/2 quart high
on most engines) - won't cause any problems. If you're really worried,
and want to remove the extra without draining the entire engine...
get a plastic squeese bottle with a small spout, and a long length of
small diameter tubing - connect up, push down dipstick tube and suck
the extra out.

Don
From: mcostell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Malcolm G. Costello)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Any harm if I put too much engine oil?
Date: 5 Oct 92 16:52:42 GMT
Reply-To: mcostell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Malcolm G. Costello)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.autos.tech, naiming@eng.umd.edu (Naiming Shen) writes:
x>I changed the engine oil yesterday for my Honda. It suppose to take
x>3.7 quarters. So I poured 3 and half bottle of oil in. When I checked
x>the stick, It was about half an inch above the upper limit mark.
x>I'm wondering any harm can be done by this?
x>thanks in advance.
x>
x>Naiming,
Did you change the oil filter at the same time? Did you check the
level on the "stick" before or after you started the engine?
If you changed the filter too and you checked the "stick" before
you started the engine, check it again. The oil level will have read
high before because the filter hadn't had a chance to fill up.
If you didn't change the filter, you *may* have put in too much oil.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mack Costello <mcostell@oasys.dt.navy.mil> Code 1720.1       ?
David Taylor Model Basin, Carderock Division Hq. NSWC    ___/-\____
Bethesda, MD 20084-5000   Phone (301) 227-2431          (__________>|

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
From: ihusain@pyramid.COM (Intisar Husain)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Question on Rack & Pinions
Date: 28 Sep 92 23:44:55 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Pyramid Technology Corporation, Mountain View, California

Hello Everybody

I bought an 84 Maxima, and found an oil leakage underneath, from
the Rack and Pinion. I talked to many mechanics and found that
nobody fixes the Rack and Pinion, and the best option is to
replace it with the rebuilt one. 

After talking to the dealer, find out that there was a problem 
with Rack and Pinion on this particular model, and his suggestions
is to replace it with the new original Rack and Pinion, which
means he was talking, twice the price of my car as compare to 
an original new Rack and Pinion. In that case it is better to
keep on adding the oil, whenver needed and forget to fix it.

Making long story short the questions that I have 

1:	Is to replace the Rack and Pinion, only option that I have?
2:	I looked in local Yellow Pages, and could not find any place,
	where, I can get a rebuilt Rack and Pinion? 
3:	How difficult is to replace the Rack and Pinion. I am pretty 
	much self-to-do-mechanic, means, have replaced cylinder heads
	and timing chains, and other minor jobs.

All/Any answers, will be highly appreciated. 

Intisar..
From: steve@aurora.com (Steve Anderson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Engine cranks but not running
Date: 6 Oct 92 23:11:22 GMT
Organization: The Aurora Group

In article <1992Oct1.004125.26626@cbnewsm.cb.att.com> newark@cbnewsm.cb.att.com
(antonio.cruz) writes:
>I towed a 1974 Buick Regal with a 350 (H) Buick engine home last week.
>The engine cranks after I installed a battery. The car was in this
>lady's garage for 4 years without being turned on or driven.
>I modified the old points & condensor system with a '77 HEI system.
>I changed the plugs and oil. The timing is on the specs. The old
>oil had smell of gas and was overfilled. The engine cranks but doesn't run.
>It has spark. And we used quick starter fluid. Back fired once or twice.
>
>Any ideas what is wrong. The lady drove it in the garage with no
>problems. It has 100K miles.
>
>Thanks for any solutions.
>

Here's my $0.02:

>I changed the plugs and oil. The timing is on the specs. The old
>oil had smell of gas and was overfilled. The engine cranks but doesn't run.
 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

This means somebody tried to start it for a long time, pouring gas
by the rings, into the crankcase.

The car has been sitting for a long time, so the oil has drained
from the cylinders, resulting in no compression, so you can't start it.
(you need spark, fuel, *and compression*)

Remove the plugs, squirt some oil into the cylinders, this should fix things.

[I paid $80 to learn this lesson from a mechanic a few years ago]

--steve

-- 
 H. Stephen Anderson			 | email: steve@aurora.com
 The Aurora Group 			 | Phone: (415) 327-3001
 800 El Camino Real, Suite 200           | "If you are what you eat, then
 Menlo Park, California 94025            |  I'm dead meat..."  -- Timbuk 3
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: atovorni@engr.UVic.CA (Andreas  Tovornik)
Subject: Re: Wider Wheels
Reply-To: atovorni@engr.UVic.CA
Organization: University of Victoria, Victoria, BC, Canada
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 92 02:58:00 GMT

In article 1a5hsnINNdfd@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu, ah335@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Richard Banks) writes:
>
>Why is it that slimmer tires are better in snow?  More pressure?


More pressure per square inch.

Andy.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: atovorni@engr.UVic.CA (Andreas  Tovornik)
Subject: Re: Is my clutch going out?
Reply-To: atovorni@engr.UVic.CA
Organization: University of Victoria, Victoria, BC, Canada
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 92 01:04:10 GMT

In article 717946571@guppie19, federkin@rtsg.mot.com (John Federkins) writes:

>I have an '88 Dodge Shadow, 4 cyl, 5-spd, 44K miles.
>When shifting up through the gears, sometimes it takes a few
>seconds before the next gear catches.  Also, at highway speeds,
>the trans seems to drift between 5th and 4th gears by itself.
>This is my first car with a standard transmission, so I'm not
>really sure what's causing this.

There is no way a manual transmission will change gears unless you
shift from one gear to the next yourself. As this is your first car 
with a manual transmission, it's safe to assume that you didn't 
do much shifting before you got the car. Since you were not used to
shifting, it's also safe to assume that you weren't very smooth 
to start with.

You likely horsed the clutch around without knowing it.
with 44k miles, you did pretty good. A few years ago my father
bought a new car and didn't really want to pay the extra cost
for an automatic. I drove it home for him and had to teach him
how to do it again (he hadn't shifted since the 'fifties.)
A few months later, the car had 5000 miles on it, and it did 
the same thing as yours. The old man beat you by almost 40 k miles.
 
Cost of a new "heavy duty" clutch and installation on a new FWD
car: $450 can. (almost the price of the automatic option)

Andy.

PLEASE EXCUSE MY OBVIOUS IGNORANCE.
From: dak@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu (David Kardelis- I am the NRA)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Ford Probe Problem
Date: 30 Sep 92 22:15:24 GMT
Article-I.D.: news.BvEwHq.3pE
Reply-To: dak@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu
Organization: High Energy Physics, University of Illinois, Urbana-Champaign


	My fiance's 1989 ford Probe is acting up.
The car will run rough for a second then the engine will race then
recover to normal idle for a while. This problem also occurs while
trying to accelerate. I was thinking it would be  a clogged fuel filter
or something similar. The wires,plugs, distributo rwere changed about 5k
ago. 
	My fiance said that someone at work was having similar symptons
on her car and it turned out to be a transmission problem. The probe
has the automatic trans. Does this make sense? What would be 
causing this problem in the trans? 
							dave
==========================================================================
   David Kardelis		| I am the NRA-NRA Life
   Gradual Student in Physics   |
   Univ. of Ilinois		|	Looking for a new .SIG
   dak@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu	|
   217-333-0505			|
Not necessarily the views of the ISSC or the UI At UC
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: DOHC on a V8 possible?
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 3 Oct 92 09:52:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> rear-wheel drive/ live axle?  And there's NOTHING wrong with a
-> pushrod V-8, though it is lo-tech.  Now only if Ford would put in a
-> 351w or the new 4.6 "modular" motor.  Now that would be a 'stang!

 What's Ford's excuse now?  Back when the Camaro finally got the 350, I
figured the 351 Mustang would be right around the corner.  Ford showed a
few to the magazines, then claimed they couldn't sell them because it
would adversely affect their CAFE ratings.  Then they claimed they were
discontinuing the 351W (which wasn't discontinued) and so forth...

 My Racer Walsh catalog lists brand new Ford 351W HO motors in the
crate for $2295.  285hp and 355 ftlb of torque isn't bad for a late
model.
                           
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: twong@civil.ubc.ca (Thomas Wong)
Subject: Re: Rough cold starts
Organization: Dept. of Civil Engineering, U.B.C., Vancouver, B.C., Canada
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 18:42:55 GMT

In article <1992Sep27.211129.12162@unixg.ubc.ca> twong@civil.ubc.ca (Thomas Wong) writes:
>
>Hello everyone. For the past couple of months, my Talon has been having
>rough cold starts, even during summer. By this I mean it would crank
>but sounds like it's not kicking in (firing?). And even when it does,
>the engine would go gough... clonk clonk ... like it's going to die
>for awhile befor kicking in and get the normal roar of the idling
>engine. So I just took my car in for its 25K Km (Canadian use metric
>:) ) servicing and told them about the problem. When I got it back,
>they said that it was fixed. When ask what they did and what the problem
>was, they said that it was fixed under the normal servcing work. It
>covered my problem. But I asked for specifics again and they could
>only say... maybe it was this and maybe that. So I was suspicious.
>But looking at the checkoff sheet, it did say that they topped off
>my battery. So I waited till the next morning to test the cold start 
>again and it was rough, but better. Nothing like before my rough start
>problem when the car would justturn over with no problem. So I left it.
>It's been a week and it's gotten worst again. I'd have to turn her
>over twice before she kicks in. So I'll have to bring my car back.
>Not sure if I trust my dealer so I'd like to hear if anyone has any
>opinion on this before I bring her in. Thanks.
>
One reply I got so far suggested that it might be the battery.
Well, the mechanic at my dealer checked the battery and topped it
off. And when I got home, I put a battery charger on it and it
didn't need charging. Anyone have any other suggestions or comments
on the battery? Thanks.

Thomas.
From: mcia@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Mike Ciaraldi)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: CAR TALK Puzzler 9/12/92 -- Brakes
Date: 30 Sep 92 11:40:46 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Rochester (Rochester, NY)

I was listening to the Public Radio show CAR TALK a few
weeks ago (Sept. 12, to be exact), and they had an interesting
"puzzler" segment about a man whose car had brake problems.

When he tried to stop, the pedal went right to the floor,
but if he pumped it enough, he could build up some pressure.
Replacing the master cylinder, proportioning valve, etc.,
didn't work, and there were no leaks.

One of the show's hosts (I don't remember if it was Click or Clack :-) )
said he had finally fixed the problem, but it did not require
any changes to the braking system!  The answer was going to
be broadcast the following week.  I missed the next broadcast,
so I was hoping someone could tell me what the solution was.

To avoid cluttering up the network, please reply by E-mail to:

Mike Ciaraldi
University of Rochester
mcia@uhura.cc.rochester.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: white@watsci.uwaterloo.ca (Brad White)
Subject: Re: Mustang Cobra Article C/D Oct
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 14:57:57 GMT

I believe that ford already uses this technique to measure horsepower.  The
current Mustang is rated for 225 horsepower to the rear wheels...
Brad

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sukenick@sci.ccny.cuny.edu (SYG)
Subject: Re: Will not start when warm..
Organization: City College of New York - Science Computing Facility
Distribution: usa
Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1992 20:03:21 GMT

>>>The engine turns very slowly if at all, like the battery is dead.
>>I have the same(?) problem on my 85 CrownVic. If it gets really really hot
>>out AND I have had the AC on AND it's been sitting for less than 10 minutes
>>it sometimes will not start. The solution in my case is to pour a glass of
>>water on the Duraspark module. It seems that some circuit in these things
>>opens when it gets too hot.

Hmmmmmm.

Why should the spark module cause slow cranking?
(it might, if it causes firing at the wrong timing,)
If the module shuts off, you just can't start the car, but the
starter should spin things merrily along

I'd suggest:
check battery  voltage, electrolyte, if you got green or white stuff
all around the battery, find out why it's leaking; make sure it's
held down securely or fix that front end!

Check battery cables, clean the corrosion, if you really want to be
happy, you can put on those worthless  but colorful red and green rings

And now,
Disconnect ground and...
check the @#$@$#@&@# connections at the fender mounted solenoid relay
take the connections off, clean, make sure that high current lines
are closest to battery connection (battery connection closest to
nut or to relay).  

Still a problem?
Check the big cable connections at the starter. Clean them, 
clean the bolt, etc, put them back on, tighten the nut
but not too tight.

Summary of problems in order of cost of fixing:

1) cables, corrosion, order of cables ($0)
2) relay  (about $7, no? worth a try!)
3) battery  ($35+)
4) starter  ($40+)
5) your timing chain is about to drop off inside the engine  ($1000+)
	(happened to a friend!)


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: fs@cs.tulane.edu (Frank Silbermann)
Subject: Mixing Synthetic & Mineral
Nntp-Posting-Host-[nntpd-7372]: caesar
Organization: Computer Science Dept., Tulane Univ., New Orleans, LA
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 15:46:31 GMT


My car's manual recommends 5W30 oil,
but accepts 10W30 or straight 30 weight.
I'd like to use some Castrol Synthetic,
but that's listed as 5W50.

If I mixed two quarts of 5W50 Synthetic
with two quarts of straight 10 weight oil,
would the mixture be 7.5W30 and suitable for my engine?
Or would a different mixture be better?

	fs@cs.tulane.edu
From: dlou@ECE.UCSD.EDU (Dennis Lou)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Why Platinum plugs might not be a good idea...
Date: 7 Oct 92 04:40:55 GMT
Organization: University of California, San Diego

In article <1992Oct07.011946.34016@lobo.rmhs.colorado.edu> seanr@lobo.rmhs.colorado.edu (Sean Reifschneider) writes:
>If a car has an exhaust gas recirculation system, and you have platinum
>plugs, then the platinum element in the plug works with exhaust gas
>just like your Cat converter.  So, you get water forming on the
>plug then you get ignition.  Now, the question is, is this going
>to be a problem?

Hmmm, maybe that's how they stay so clean for so long...

On Bosch Plats, the platinum element is so small I doubt it could
collect much hydrogen.

I've heard a lot of good things about Splitfire (tm) plugs.  Maybe you
ought to give them a try...
--
Dennis Lou             || "But Yossarian, what if everyone thought that way?"
dlou@ucsd.edu          || "Then I'd be crazy to think any other way!"
[backbone]!ucsd!dlou   |+====================================================
dlou@ucsd.BITNET       |Steve Jobs and Steve Wozniak went to my high school.
From: tmkk@uiuc.edu (Khan)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Fuel Injection Question
Date: 2 Oct 92 16:17:23 GMT
Article-I.D.: news.BvI590.MML
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana


In article <92275.78610.J066610@LMSC5.IS.LMSC.LOCKHEED.COM> J066610@LMSC5.IS.LMSC.LOCKHEED.COM writes:
>Does anyone out there know if there is the equivalent of a choke (cold
>start vavle ???) for fuel injected cars?

Yeah; it's called your engine computer. The computer has complete
control over your air/fuel ratio. It decides this using the inputs of
various sensors (air flow, air pressure, temperature, etc.) and probably
some internal lookup tables which say "if air flow is this and temperature
is that and this other condition is true, then hold the injector solenoid
for cylinder 3 open for this many milliseconds" which produces an
appropriate amount of fuel for the air coming into the combustion
chamber.

Perhaps the computer is getting some bad input (e.g. from a faulty
sensor)?
From: mcia@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Mike Ciaraldi)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: CAR TALK Puzzler 9/12/92 -- Brakes -- Thanks To All!
Date: 2 Oct 92 02:56:05 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Rochester (Rochester, NY)

>In <1992Sep30.114046.1293@galileo.cc.rochester.edu> mcia@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Mike Ciaraldi) writes:
>
>>I was listening to the Public Radio show CAR TALK a few
>>weeks ago (Sept. 12, to be exact), and they had an interesting
>>"puzzler" segment about a man whose car had brake problems.
>

That is the start of the message I sent out a few days ago.
Since then, about half a dozen people have written to me with the
answer, and another half dozen wrote asking for the answer.

The original reason I didn't want people to post is that I was
afraid there would be dozens of identical answers posted as the
original message and the various follow-ups chased each other
around the net.

Since there was one public posting of the answer
(loose wheel bearings made the rotors wobble), I thought
I should send a final message thanking all who responded,
who proved once again what a great invention the Net is!

Thanks again,
Mike Ciaraldi