HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: atovorni@engr.UVic.CA (Andreas  Tovornik)
Subject: Re: *** Design Logic Faults ***
Reply-To: atovorni@engr.UVic.CA
Organization: University of Victoria, Victoria, BC, Canada
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 92 22:55:59 GMT

In article 671@dwp.la.ca.us, tim@dwp.la.ca.us (Tim Mortensen) writes:
>In article <1992Oct2.165655.25798@news.cs.brandeis.edu> andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang) writes:
>>Originally belt driven fans were used to cool the radiator all the
>>time.  However they cost power to run and so to improve efficiency
>>they went to electric smart fans.......
>I think fan clutches were doing plenty on the efficiency side, but they
>all went to crappy FWD with transverse mounted engines with nowhere to
>to put a stinking simple fan.

   Alec Issigonis did it another way when he designed the Mini. This was
arguably the first FWD with a transverse-mounted engine. He used the old
belt system but mounted the radiator by the left front fender, instead of
behind the grille. Most FWD's have lots of room under the hood when
compared with the Mini. Issigonis found room for the fan with this arrangement.
It's quite a marvel of packaging. Check it out next time you see a Mini
with the hood up.

Andy.

PLEASE IGNORE MY OBVIOUS IGNORANCE.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: vwelch@ncsa.uiuc.edu (Von Welch)
Subject: Re: SUBARU 4WD LOCK-UP
Organization: Nat'l Ctr for Supercomp App (NCSA) @ University of Illinois
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 16:27:17 GMT

In article <25998@oasys.dt.navy.mil>, peterson@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Rodney Peterson) writes:
|> I HAVE AN '87 SUBARU THAT HAS 4 WHEEL DRIVE.  RECENTLY
|> THE 4WD HAS BECOME EXTREMELY!!! DIFFICULT TO DISENGAGE.
|> IT ENGAGES READILY AND EASILY BUT IS A REAL BEAR TO GET
|> OUT.
|> 

Please don't post in all caps if possible.

My Subaru has always given me a little trouble at times getting out of 4WD.
If uneven tire wear between the front and the back is suspected, why not
try rotating the tires and see if it changes things?

-- 
Von Welch
vwelch@ncsa.uiuc.edu
- I speak only for myself and those who think exactly like me -
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jeffc@ee.ubc.ca (jeffrey chow)
Subject: Re: Worn out synchros......WHY?
Organization: University of BC, Electrical Engineering
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 16:24:14 GMT

In article <1992Sep26.004551.1@hamp.hampshire.edu> ycheah@hamp.hampshire.edu writes:
>
>Question: What on earth could have caused the synchros to wear out this way?
>Is this normal wear, or is it a Subaru design defect, or is it coincidental
>that I have two in a row that wears out this way?

  I was told that synchros wear out very quick if you tend to drive
with your hands on the stick-shift all the time.  This stops the stick
from vibrating with your tranny and the resulting friction causes
the synchros to wear out.  Your hands should be on the stick only when
you shift gears.    

  I don't know how true this is so any comments from the net??             

  Jeff

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jeffrey Chow                                             jeffc@ee.ubc.ca
Department of Electrical Engineering                     
University of British Columbia                        Home   (604) 255-0291
2365 Main Mall                                        HSN LAB(604) 822-9211
Vancouver, BC                                         FAX1   (604) 822-5949
V6T 1W5                                               FAX2   (604) 822-9209 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>Yin-Chai
>
From: jmbi+@andrew.cmu.edu (James Seth Mundorff)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Attn: MG owners
Date: 4 Oct 92 23:47:00 GMT
Organization: Sophomore, Chemical Engineering, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA

I have a 1971 MGB roadster with overdrive and, as fellow owners will
testify, have had numerous problems with it.  Although the car is great
fun to drive, it is rather unpleasant to work on due to the "no bones"
design approach customary for British sports cars.  Nonetheless, I love
that little car and would someday like to give it to my son just as my
father entrusted it to me.

I am interested in corresponding with other MG owners in order to swap
ideas and secrets about these little British gems (perhaps even on a
subgroup of this bboard).

Please mail replies directly to:  jmbi@andrew.cmu.edu.

Sincerely,

J. Seth Mundorff
From: system@hale.cts.com (System Administration)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: PTFE (Teflon) Additives
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 92 13:37:10 PDT
Organization: Hale Telecommunications San Diego CA

iseman@ravel.udel.edu (Stephen Early) writes:

> In article <o9kqRB4w165w@hale.cts.com> system@hale.cts.com (System Administra
> >I'm sure this must have been discussed somewhere before, but I didn't see 
> >it...
> >
> >What is the general informed attitude towards Teflon (A registered 
> >trademark of the DuPont Corperation, DuPont is a registered trademard of 
> >the DuPont Corperation also.  I bet Trademarks has been trademarked 
> >somewhere also, but....) additives?
> 
> Oh god, please don't rehash this thread.
> 
> Steve 


Well, think about it bright boy, you just reposted the entire message for 
those who missed it the first time around, thus doubling the chance that 
some interested party is going to reply to it.

Now if you just sat in the corner and bit your lip, you would have 
not brought it back to life.

And we're off...


             -=-  System Administrator  system@hale.cts.com  -=-
                      Hale Telecommunications, San Diego
From: borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 21:40:36 GMT
Subject: Re: Ford Ranger Blinker/Brake Light Doesn't Work!
Organization: Hewlett Packard Company, Spokane, Wa.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

In rec.autos.tech, ai065@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Thomas Hill) writes:

>I've got a problem with my right rear turn signal and brake light on my
>83 Ford Ranger. Both stopped working a few weeks back. I replaced the bulb
>with no luck. I then used a test probe (light bulb with two leads) to test
>the wires right before the plug. There are three wires at this right rear:
>A brown wire to the light which comes on when your lights are on. A orange
>(?) wire with a stripe in it which goes to the same light to power the turn
>and braking functions. And a black wire which serves as a ground to both
>wires. All three wires go to the same light bulb (one of those two-level (?)
>type lights).
> 
>Anyway, this bulb will light when my lights are one, but will not light up
>for braking or turn signal functions. The yellow wire is the suspect wire
>here. I cut into it before the light plug and found no power. I then checked
>it at the wiring harness plug (right under the center of the rear bumper) and
>found no power there. My question is where to check next? I traced it all the
>way to the engine compartment and could find no breaks. I'm at a point now
>where the wires plug into another wiring harness on the left fender inside
>the engine compartment. I have yet to look at this plug, but figured I'd ask
>now exactly where else the problem could be besides there? I would guess the
>next step would be inside the truck somewhere under the dash. Can anybody
>give me an idea of what I might be looking for? Thanks in advance...

You might want to check at the turn signal switch.  This switch switches the
function of the heavier (brighter) light bulb filament between turn signal
and brake light functions.  The switch itself may be defective, or the wire
may have slipped off the connector.


Donald Borowski    WA6OMI    Hewlett-Packard, Spokane Division
"Angels are able to fly because they take themselves so lightly."
                                       -G.K. Chesterton
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Need Camshaft Specs for 84 HURST/OLDS
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 2 Oct 92 12:38:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> Oldsmobile claims that the camshaft is no longer in production and
-> they cannot get a NOS part anywhere.  I need to know the camshaft
-> specs so I can find an aftermarket replacement that will give about

 As far as my books show, the engine in the '84 HO was identical to the
standard motor.  Any parts store should be able to get a stock regrind
for you, or Comp Cams will fix you up with a new one.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Wider Wheels
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 28 Sep 92 08:35:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> Why is it that slimmer tires are better in snow?  More pressure?

 Beats me.  The rears on my Torino were 13 inches wide, 10s in front.  I
never got stuck in the snow, so I guess they were OK...
From: jimv@hienergy.Eng.Sun.COM (Jim Vienneau  - Sun Microsystems)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Cold = Super braking power??
Date: 30 Sep 1992 20:53:36 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Mt. View, Ca.
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: hienergy.east.sun.com

>>tidbit. Whenever I'm at a light with my foot on the brake, the car
>>idles roughly. If I take my foot off the brake (Not that I'd be on the
>>brake if there was no incline...) the engine idles more smoothly.

If it's a GM with an ECM (and probably others) it's because the CPU sees
that your foot is on the brake (hense, not about to accelerate) and leans
out the mixture. When you take your foot off the brake, it assumes you're
headed for the gas and richens it back up. Usually, it's subtle
and you can't really tell, but if your oxygen sensor is going out of spec
it will be more noticeable.


--
Jim Vienneau, Sun Microsystems Inc - Billerica, MA
Email: jvienneau@east.sun.com   Amateur Radio: WB1B
Good old Ma Bell (well old anyway): (508)671-0372
From: borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 23:30:33 GMT
Subject: Re: Thermostat in '90 Tercel
Organization: Hewlett Packard Company, Spokane, Wa.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

In rec.autos.tech, dbowman@shade (Don A. Bowman) writes:

>I have kind of an open question for those inclined to read:
>
>My mother purchases her '90 Tercel in October '90 (new). She also purchasesed
>the extended warranty, etc, etc, etc.
>
>She now has 90 000Km on it.
>
>Ever since she bought the car, it took a VERY long time to warm up (18-40
>km of driving, even in summer weather). She complained about this to the
>dealer at most services (she religiously had them maintain it, change the
>oil, etc,etc,etc to protect her extended warranty).
>
>Well, this time she complained to the -mechanic- at Toyota. He found the
>thermostat was stuck open, and replaced it free of charge.
>Now the car warms up within 1 minute of running.
>
>My question: It is fairly obvious that the thermostat was defective from day
>one. We live in a fairly cold climate, and in the winter the car would end up
>being driven with under-temperature oil. Also, the water would be circulating
>at all times. What sort of damage could be expected from under-temp oil?
>
>(The car is like new -- no oil consumption, same gas mileage, same power, no
>bearing rumble, etc, etc, etc)
>
>Would any <potential> damage have already shown up? Or is the fact that the
>car is like new indicating that no damage was done?

I would guess that you probably have lost 10,000 to 30,000 km of engine
life due to this.  Since many engines will be running "good as new" even
after 120,000 km or even more, the fact that the engine now runs well does
not mean that it hasn't worn excessively.  The regular oil changes should
have helped (drain out condensed water).


Donald Borowski    WA6OMI    Hewlett-Packard, Spokane Division
"Angels are able to fly because they take themselves so lightly."
                                       -G.K. Chesterton
From: cf947@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Chun-Hung Wan)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Duralube
Date: 29 Sep 1992 06:01:16 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: cf947@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Chun-Hung Wan)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


What is Duralube like?  HAs anyone tried it out yet?
-- 
A motion picture major at the Brooks Institute of Photography, CA
Santa Barbara and a foreign student from Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.

"The mind is the forerunner of all states."
From: q1hl@jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca (Nameless CS Student)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Carb questions
Keywords: junkyards, prices
Date: 30 Sep 92 23:30:51 GMT
Organization: University of New Brunswick

In article <lcejfiINNonq@utkcs2.cs.utk.edu> bhhardy@cs.utk.edu (Barbara Hardy) writes:
>So my questions are: what about a junkyard? Surely I could find a
>totaled something that would fit and I could yank it off that? Also,

>Finally, the car occasionally dies while idling, and the idle is
>erratic. I am guessing that thisis carb trouble? 
>Barbara

Often, erratic idling is caused by air (vaccuum) leaks.  I put a
4-barrel on a previous car, and found that it idled poorly and
sometimes quit, and eventually found that the base-plate on the
carb was warped, letting air in under the carb.  I replaced it
with a plate off a wreck at the junk-yard, and it worked perfectly
until the day I sold the car.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: fagundes@iastate.edu (Alex Fagundes)
Subject: Additives to stop oil burning??
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames IA
Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1992 17:29:48 GMT

Hi,
   I would like to know if any of these products which supposedly make an
engine stop burining oil actually work??
thanks...

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
|  Alex Fagundes -         Proud owner of a 76 Maverick :) and another      | 
|  fagundes@iastate.edu  -          believer that AMIGA rules               | 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks)
Subject: Re: Why Not More Reverse Flow Cooling?
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 13:20:49 GMT

In article <43370007@hpspkla.spk.hp.com> borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski) writes:
>Well, netters, here is my question again.  I've tried it twice, with no
>scale?  I can hardly believe that it is due to "design inertia" since
>the days of the Model T without a water pump.  Anyone???
>
>
:wq
Don't bet on it. Design inertia aside, the Model T got away without a water
pump due to the natural convection of hot vs. cold water. Besides design
inertia, longer criscrossing radiator hoses, etc, it would seem logical to
"go with the flow" (pun intended) and let the hot water rise like it wants
to anyway. Maybe reverse flow cooling is just one of those cases of "Now
why didn't _I_ think of that?"
 
Ted Brooks
 ______________________________________________________________________
| Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are my own, and do not reflect    |
| those of my employer. Advice is free, but you get what you pay for.  |
|                               ________                               |
|                         _____|  1955  |_______                       |
|                        /      Chevrolet      /                       |
|                       /______  BelAir  _____/                        |
|                              |________|                              |
|______________________________________________________________________|
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: DOHC on a V8 possible?
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 3 Oct 92 10:10:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> Awwww, c'mon bob. Vettes haven't had live axles since '62. BMW's
-> don't have them, T-bird SC's don't have them, Aston Martins,Jags,
-> Z-cars, Ferraris,Lambos,Porsches,etc...don't have them. Only
-> Mustangs, F-cars, Are there any others?

<cue in choir music>  Buick Grand National GNX.


-> Most "higher performance"
-> cars are unfortunately fitted with FWD.

 There is no such thing as a "high performance" car with front wheel
drive, unless your definition is limited to limited-edition stripe
packages and ugly wheels.
                                                                         
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: pacyga@rtsg.mot.com (Jim Pacyga)
Subject: Looking for FORD part
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 18:18:08 GMT

Hi all,

I have a '90 Ford SHO and had the end cap of the turn signal stalk break off
(material defect).  As it happens the cap is not sold separately and is
responsible for making the interval wipers and washer spray work right.

Does anyone know who makes the assembly (Ford doesn't)?  I don't really
feel like it is worth $60 to buy a whole new assembly for just the cap.

I have tried junk yards, but the cap must be '90 or above to fit right and the
yards just don't have any.  I also tried to get the local dealerships to
give me one out of their "to be returned" stock, but they either don't have
any or tell me that they can't do it.

Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks,

--------------------+-------------------------------+
Jim Pacyga          | Motorola, Inc.                |
(708) 632-6903      | 1501 W. Shure Dr., IL-27-N258 |
uunet!motcid!pacyga | Arlington Heights,  IL  60004 |
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: "Gary A. Woodward" <p00140@psilink.com>
Subject: Re: oxygen sensor
Organization: Performance Systems Int'l
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 14:18:09 GMT
X-Mailer: PSILink (3.2)

Being in Wash.DC I know one of the people that worked on the O2 sensor 
dev.  The federal govt demanded a replacement cycle.  There is no 
correlation to its life span to mileage.  However, if you burn oil or if 
you run a very rich fuel mixture your will foul it and kill it.   You 
will experiene driveability problems when it goes.  You can test it with 
a volt meter.  It outputs 0 to 1 volt analog in the fuel mixture control.
You can buy them cheaply from a Co. in St. louis, mo called TOMCO. 

good day.
From: michaeln@hpcvnb.CV.HP.COM (Mike_Nason)
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 92 02:36:15 PDT
Subject: Re: Engine cranks but not running
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Corvallis, Oregon
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

   Well here's a quick one, you didn't say if its getting gas. Pump
the accellerator and see if your getting fuel. 
   Also note, 4 year old gas does not burn. (Well maybe on a campfire)
You need to pump out the old fuel/drain it, and put in new. then you need
to see if the fuel pump is getting fuel to the carb and whether its getting
thru the carb to the engine. 
   Sometimes when the carbs dry out the plug off with oxides and deposits.
If the engine has a machanical fuel pump it might not be working. (same with
electrical) 
   Some GM engines had oil pressure swithes the shut off the electric fuel 
pump when the was no oil pressure.  Lots of things to check. Just check that
its getting fuel from the carb into the mainifold (look down the carb and
pump the throttle), change the fuel if its what came in the car. Make
sure the new ignition is working and that the timing is right. 
   If you've got fresh fuel and ignition and compression and its not even
trying to start.........re-check the timing! I've seen a dozen people
miss that one. Also. make sure that your getting spark to the plugs. The 
plug wires may have broken down to the point the your loosing most of the
power before the plugs.
   If you can't figure out what you don't have thats keeping it from running
try looking at what you do have so you can eliminate that point. 
           Good luck. Mike Nason
From: walkerr@yaya.WPI.EDU (Robert A Walker)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Car storage
Date: 29 Sep 1992 14:32:27 GMT
Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute
NNTP-Posting-Host: yaya.wpi.edu


>Why do you store the car on blocks?  What purpose does it serve?

The reason you put it up on blocks is to save the tires.  A tire tha sits
around with a lot of weight on it tends to crack, with dry rot and all.  
The tires are much safer sitting by themselves.


>Something else you may wish to do to a stored car (read/heard from somewhere, I
>don't remember where) is to take out all the plugs and squirt some oil in each
>cylinder.  crank the engine for a few secs to allow the oil to coat the cylinder
>walls, and then replace the plugs.






Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mitu@me.utoronto.ca (Adrian Mitu)
Subject: Re: Wider Wheels
Organization: UofT Mechanical Engineering
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 02:44:13 GMT

ah335@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Richard Banks) writes:


>Why is it that slimmer tires are better in snow?  More pressure?

Yup! That's exactly it. There's more pressure between the tire
and the snow. => Tires cut through the snow. 
Wider tires would just slide over the snow.

Everything is totally different on dry pavement, tho!  ;-)

Adrian.

-- 
Adrian Mitu
(mitu@me.utoronto.ca)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Cold = Super braking power??
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 1 Oct 92 23:22:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> >When you put your foot on the brake you place about a 120 Watt load
-> on >the alternator because of the brake lights.  This causes the idle

 Are YOU the idiot running the aircraft landing lights as stoplights?

 Those thin red filters over eye-searing brightness wipe out my night
vision handily, thank you.  The damned taillights are worse than the
headlights - at least properly aimed headlights aren't aimed straight at
your eyeballs.
                         
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: atovorni@engr.UVic.CA (Andreas  Tovornik)
Subject: Re: Chevy 454's
Reply-To: atovorni@engr.UVic.CA
Organization: University of Victoria, Victoria, BC, Canada
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 92 00:45:48 GMT


In article 3528@usl.edu, dfs5716@usl.edu (Seidel Daniel F) writes:
>
>
>
>   Does anyone out there in net-land know what the "normal" output of the Chevy 454 is?  And while I am one the subject any information on the available street power that one may expect to reliably extract from this engine.  (Gee hope that this isn't a FAQ ... oh well).
>              Thanks! 


  This all depends on the year of your rat motor. Try a typical 375 for a really
plain one from before 1972. Sae net figures for the current TBI truck motor
is about 240, ( but oh, what a mountain of torque...over 350 lb-ft enough?)
 
  I've heard of some modified ones that give 600 hp (gross) and more.

Hope this helps.

Andy.

PLEASE EXCUSE MY OBVIOUS IGNORANCE.
From: rossi@gvlf9-q.gvl.unisys.com (Pete Rossi)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: What is in "engine flush"?
Date: 29 Sep 92 15:46:29 GMT
Article-I.D.: gvl.1992Sep29.154629.10387
Distribution: usa
Organization: Paramax Systems Corp (A Unisys Company), Great Valley Labs, PA

What is in this stuff sold in 1 quart cans for $1.98 labeled as "engine flush"?

I had heard that it is similar to kerosene.  Could a quart of kerosene
(costing about 25 cents vs. $1.98) be used instead?

I have used one of these flushes about every third oil change for years but
wonder if there is something cheaper that might work just as good? 

I change my oil every 2500-3000 miles and when I had the intake manifold
off about 6 months ago it looked pretty clean inside - even after 15 years :-)

=================================================================
Pete Rossi - WA3NNA                  rossi@gvl.unisys.com

Paramax Systems Corporation - a Unisys Company
Electronic Systems - Valley Forge Labs - Paoli, Pennsylvania
=================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech