HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: leighann@sybase.com (Leigh Ann Hussey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Why Don't Women Brew?
Date: 27 Aug 92 20:46:31 GMT
Organization: Banshee Brews

Well, I'm a woman, and I've been brewing beer on and off for 3 years.  I
also brew mead.  Not a big wine fan -- and I think that's the rub.  In
the US, anyway, beer is "a manly man drink", and advertising for beer
would seem to reinforce that; how many women have you seen in beer ads?
Beer is for the coarse, the unrefined, the peasantry.  Wine is for the
upper crust, and that's what Madison Ave. would have us believe women
drink.

All of this is sheerest speculation, of course, but hell, give this
coarse peasant woman beer over wine any day.

	Hurrah for the juice, the juice of the barley,
	glorious, sweet and so strong and so fine;
	exalted be porter and whiskey and ale
	forever o'er spirits of wine!


	- Leigh Ann

Leigh Ann Hussey                                      leighann@sybase.com
"Turkeys, heresy, hops and beer / All came to England in the one year."
What year was it?
Answer: 1520
From: slndw@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: SG on double malting
Date: 2 Sep 92 17:42:48 GMT
Article-I.D.: cc.1992Sep2.114248.58577
Organization: Utah State University

In article <1992Sep2.163654.25821@worldbank.org>, aki <aki@atlas.worldbank.org> writes:> 
>
> BTW I don't mind getting flamed...it's just embarrassing asking such
> a simplistic question to all you brewmasters out there.  (I'm referring
> to my previous post about the carboy)... I feel like
> a "grasshopper" to homebrewing.  But I've have learned ALOT from
> this newsgroup and have recommended it to alot of my friends who
> are thinking about getting into homebrewing. :-) ....



AH.....
When you can take the homebrew from my hand you will be ready...
From: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us (Joseph Nathan Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Help on home made wine
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 92 22:28:55 EDT
Organization: 5 Sigma Software
Reply-To: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us
X-Mailer: uAccess - Macintosh Release: 1.5v5


In article <23129@hacgate.SCG.HAC.COM> (rec.crafts.brewing), abirenbo@rigel.cel.scg.hac.com (Aaron Birenboim) writes:
) I jsut started an eldeberry mead.  It was the first time i used
) sulphites instead of boiling/pasteurizing.  I pitched a starter
) of lalvin ec-1118 champagne yeast into my 19% pot. alchahol must
) 36 hours after adding 1.75 slightly stale camden tablets.

) anyway, now I have a slightly slow ferment (which i can live with)
) which is producing some large scummy bubbles on top.  They can be
) about 2 cm in diameter, and are covered with brown scum.

Normal.  You may be in for a long wait with an OG of 1.140+.  Many
folks would have advised you to start with an OG of 1.120 or so and
add the last of the honey after the first phase of the primary fermentation
was complete.  If the fermentation sticks, add 1/2 tsp yeast nutrient,
a pinch of yeast energizer, and a small pinch of epsom salts.  If
it doesn't quicken, just put it in the closet for a few months and
do something else in the meanwhile.

uunet!joebloe!joseph   (609) 273-8200 day   joseph%joebloe@uunet.uu.net
v   v  sssss | Certified Guru: all-grain brewing,| 2102 Ryan's Run East
 v v  s   s  | C, synthesizer comp & arranging,  | Rt 38 & 41
  v    sss   | photography. Also not a bad cook. | Maple Shade NJ 08052
-----My employer isn't paying for this, and my opinions are my own-----
From: slk6p@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: wild hops
Date: 2 Sep 92 23:39:52 MDT
Organization: Utah State University

In article <13613.2aa4c4d5@ohstpy.mps.ohio-state.edu>, cpalmer@ohstpy.mps.ohio-state.edu writes:
> I hope this wasn't someone's hop field that you stumbled upon, they
> might be surprised to find them gone.  
> Of course in the world of pot growing, the rule says that anything you
> find growing is free for the pickin'!
> 
Yeah, except to those ten guys behind the plants with sawed off shotguns
pointed at your general direction  waiting for some dumb f*& % to TRY to pick
their precious crop!   Don't go hiking in N.CA during harvest season. JDW

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: aki <aki@atlas.worldbank.org>
Subject: Beers across america (one more time)
X-Xxmessage-Id: <A6CD20D0CA0B2631@akidamme-233324.worldbank.org>
X-Xxdate: Fri, 4 Sep 92 19:18:56 GMT
Organization: World Bank
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d8
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 18:25:08 GMT

to save bandwidth...if there are still people who I have
not answered via email that is still interested please
send me a request via the email address below and
I will send you the info on B.A.A....

-Aki
The Worldbank Wash. D.C.
E-mail: akidamme-233324.worldbank.org
(202)458-1112


*************************************
"How come the best bowling ball for
me is always the one I don't own?"
*************************************
From: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us (Joseph Nathan Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Does heat hoze your hoses?  Also, Potassium Sorbate Q.
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 92 08:39:27 EDT
Organization: 5 Sigma Software
Reply-To: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us
X-Mailer: uAccess - Macintosh Release: 1.5v5


In article <1992Sep03.025024.2567@wb9rxw.lonestar.org> (rec.crafts.brewing), gary@wb9rxw.lonestar.org (Gary Partain) writes:
) ... When I ran the hot wort through the tubing, it became
) relatively soft.  "Not a problem" says I, knowing that all was clamped
) together firmly.  Besides, it wasn't exactly melting....
)... Is my tubing messed up now?

It's OK.  Clear vinyl, right?  If you run hot wort dark wort through
it, it will get yellowish, too.  But not to worry.  Mine looks like
this, too, and it works fine.

) Now for question #2.  I would like to stop fermentation of mead at about the
) 3 week point.  Is potassium sorbate the right stuff for the job?  Also,
) can it be boiled to sanitize it?

Potassium sorbate will not do the job.  I don't know offhand of a
chemical that will.  You might try racking the mead once or twice
to get it as clear as possible, then pasteurizing it by heating quickly
in a covered vessel to, oh, 160F?  I don't know what temperature is 
necessary to kill yeast.  I also don't know if the small amount of 
"cooked" suspended yeast will taste awful.  Have any netters out there 
tried this?

Why not wait until the fermentation ceases, then add sorbate, then
sweeten to taste?

uunet!joebloe!joseph   (609) 273-8200 day   joseph%joebloe@uunet.uu.net
v   v  sssss | Certified Guru: all-grain brewing,| 2102 Ryan's Run East
 v v  s   s  | C, synthesizer comp & arranging,  | Rt 38 & 41
  v    sss   | photography. Also not a bad cook. | Maple Shade NJ 08052
-----My employer isn't paying for this, and my opinions are my own-----
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: rjhoffma@iastate.edu (Richard J. Hoffmann)
Subject: Tasted first batch: I'm Worried
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames, IA
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1992 20:43:54 GMT

I've been lurking is this group for about a month while I've gotten
started with my own first effort.  I bottled it last weekend and tasted
the first bottle today.

First, it has a beautiful color (one can John Bull light and one of
amber).  Beyond that, I made what turned out to be a big mistake by
trying to be clever.  I put the hops (Fuggles) in a cheesecloth ball so I
wouldn't have to strain them out.  So, I have not much hops flavor, but
I accept that.  There is little carbonation and the beer tastes very
cidery.  I know that cidery flavor is supposed to be from added sugar,
but the only sugar I used was 3/4 cup corn sugar for bottling.
Basically, the stuff isn't worth having.  I thought I was doing all those
liberated light beer bottles a great favor by giving them a new career
containing good stuff, but...

So, aside from the lack of hoppiness, will this stuff get any better in
the bottle?  Will the carbonation improve?  Will the cidery taste go
away?  Should I pour it all down the drain now and hope for better luck
with my second batch, which I started last night?  (The second batch
includes crystal malt, better use of hops and a stab at making something
like Anchor Steam, starting with a recipe I got from the Cat's Meow).

This is a very friendly group.  I've enjoyed watching.  Hope I can do
this right, so I don't have to bag it!

Dick Hoffmann



-- 
Richard J. Hoffmann              Internet: rjhoffma@iastate.edu
Department of Zoology & Genetics   Bitnet: rjhoffma%iastate.edu@isumvs
Iowa State University               Voice: (515) 294-8075
Ames, Iowa 50011
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: wlt4326@ritvax.isc.rit.edu (William L.M. Trainor)
Subject: "Relaxed" a little too much...
Reply-To: wlt4326@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1992 20:10:34 GMT

Howdy folks...

About 9 months ago, I brewed up a batch of larger, let it ferment, and then
proceed to "larger" the racked beer down in the basement for the winter, with
every intention to bottle in the spring...  Well...

It's still down there...

I looked, and there's a film of what I assume is some kind of mold on the top.

I did let a batch grow a similar "mold", and got a rather good batch out from
underneath it, but it didn't sit nearly as long as this one, and not during the
summer, either... 

Now, up here in Rochester, it's been pretty mild as far as summers go, and the
basement couldn't have gotten far above room temperature (if it did at all).

My question is:  Has anyone run into this?  Is this "dangerous"?  Should I
just "go with my nose" and figure out if its worth bottling that way?

Am I not relaxed enough?  :)



===
william l.m. trainor    wlt4326@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
animation - cinematography - graphics
"Low budget is Good budget."
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: gak@wrs.com (Richard Stueven)
Subject: Re: taste of Eldeberrie wine
Reply-To: gak@wrs.com
Organization: Wind River Systems, Inc.
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 20:12:33 GMT

In article 3294@cbnewse.cb.att.com, jimf@cbnewse.cb.att.com (james.r.fehrenbacher) writes:
>
>According to a book I have, it tastes somewhat like Chianti unless sweetened
>quite a bit

Doesn't taste much like beer, though...

---
gak			Der Herr Buergermeister gibt bekannt, dass ab
gak@wrs.com		Donnerstag Bier gebraut wird und deshalb ab
attmail!gakhaus!gak	Mittwoch nicht mehr in den Bach geschissen
107/H/3&4		werden darf.

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: ulick@angelico.helios.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford)
Subject: Re: Bud's claims to be "naturally carbonated"
Organization: University of Notre Dame, Notre Dame
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 14:38:57 GMT

In article <1992Aug25.165408.19445@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk> dam@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk (David Morning) writes:
>homebrew@lupulus.ssc.gov writes:
>
>>I saw an ad on TV the other day for Budweiser.  In
>>the ad it claimed that bud was "naturally carbonated".
>
>>This does not make any sense to me.  If it was primed
>>there would be sediment and the bottles (or cans)
>>would require aging.
>
>>Does anyone out there know anything about this claim?
> 
>Sure, it's carbonated with a natural gas - CO2 as opposed to a man-made
>gas like..er...like...er... CS tear gas.
>
>But seriously, it's possible to filter out most of the sediment and still get
>fizz in the bottle. German beers do this but don't ask me how, I just drink
>the stuff, maybe it's related to top fermenting vs bottom fermenting (well
>that's what the guy in the Heineken factory in Amsterdam told me!!)

Sure it's possible.  I'd imagine that most filtering is done at high
pressure and low temperatures so the CO2 will stay dissolved.  I
wouldn't think its any big deal, really, and probabley makes more 
economic sense than letting all fermentation CO2 go away and recarbonating,
even if the same CO2 is recovered.

Obviously if the beer in question is pasteurized and not 'cold filtered'
the claim is most likely bogus.  Let the Rocky Mountian Coolaid Co.
sue them about it :-).


+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 
+ 'There was a  master come unto the earth, + Ulick Stafford, PP-ASEL       +
+    born in the holy land of Indiana,      + Dept of Chemical Engineering, +
+ in the mystical hills east of Fort Wayne'.+ Notre Dame, IN 46556          +
+      B'fhearr liom bheith ag eitilt.      +    ulick@bach.helios.nd.edu   +
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Subject: Re: Water - another question
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean  VA
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 20:21:13 GMT

In article <01050166.cgihqv@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us>
 joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us (Joseph Nathan Hall) writes:

>It might be.  But you need to use a carefully sterilized carboy and
>use the water within, say, 2 days.  Maybe even 1 day.  Unpasteurized,
>unchlorinated drinking water ordinarly goes bad very quickly at room
>temperature.

Water goes bad at room temperature?  What is the theory for this?  Perhaps 
if it had food in it and microbes in it, they would increase.  

Certainly many many people use water barrels to catch rain water and just 
keep it covered without anything bad happening to the water.  In fact, 
letting it stand will allow some things to evaporate out and others to 
settle to the bottom.

Am I just ignorant of some new developments?

John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own
Fidonet:  1:109/131  Internet:  jdecarlo@mitre.org
From: cpalmer@ohstpy.mps.ohio-state.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: need help in downloading HBDs
Date: 2 Sep 92 17:38:18 GMT

I am having trouble downloading past HBDs from the ftp site.
I 'get' them in binary mode, transfer them to dos, and try to use
pkunzip and pkunzip2 to unzip them, but get an error.
I use this same system for other zip files, and it has
always (almost) worked.
Is there something else I should be doing?
Thanks,	
		Chris
From: brewer@meltdown.chi.il.us (Mike Wilson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: shipping beer
Date: 3 Sep 92 21:31:31 GMT
Organization: The Meltdown - A Team Star BBS

I didn't answer this the other day because I figured I might find out something
new.  So, I'll relate something that people in my homebrew club tell us to do
when sending beer for competition.  Mark on the case, "Yeast sample for
analyzing".  That should do.  After all, that may be stretching the point a
bit, but that is really what is happening, isn't it?

I've never tried it myself, but many people say it works quite well.

Mike Wilson
brewer@meltdown.chi.il.us
From: cpalmer@ohstpy.mps.ohio-state.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Bottle size and foam
Date: 3 Sep 92 15:27:07 GMT
Article-I.D.: ohstpy.13631.2aa5f68c

The larger the bottle the beer is in, the longer it will take to 
carbonate.  You probably tasted the two different bottles at the 
same time, so the aging was not consistent.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: binkley@boulder.Colorado.EDU (Jon Binkley)
Subject: Re: sterilization with a microwave?????
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date:  4 Sep 92 03:59:56 GMT

wayne@r-node.gts.org (Wayne) writes:

>Did you cap the flasks? Maybe the chlorine in the water suppressed
>growth in the non microwaved flask while microwaving the other one
>removed any residual chlorine and allowed growth.

I covered them with parafilm, and one possibility for the growth in
the microwaved flask is contaminated parafilm.

Interesting conjecture on the chlorine.  Boulder's water is sometimes
hyperchlorinated- it steeps through a peat bog under a glacier
before it reaches the reservoir, and sometimes needs a little help
from the water treatment folk.  Let's hear it for pristine water
supplies and halogenated hydrocarbons!  Rah!

(If anyone's waiting for me to repeat this, don't hold your breath;
I'm much less amused by the project than I was initially)

Jon
From: slk6p@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: What are water crystals ?
Date: 26 Aug 92 22:59:01 MDT
Organization: Utah State University

In article <1992Aug26.145540.3442@srg.srg.af.mil>, akerson@deimos.srg.af.mil (Pete Akerson - akerson%srg@uunet.uucp) writes:
> 
> 
> My box/kit came with these, white powder, tasteless, odorless.
> What are these, what do they do ?
> --
> Usually Reply-to: akerson%srg@uunet.uucp
> Internet: akerson@srg.af.mil@uunet.uucp
> Uunet: uunet!srg!akerson
> Milnet: akerson@srg.srg.af.mil     maybe ...

These would probably be water treatment (softening?) crystals.  They can be
added to the brew water, and depending on your locale can be useful in treating
water.  Some brewing books discuss water- and salt content in great detail.
Personally I've never WORRIED about it.  If you drink your tap water w/o a bad
taste i wouldn't be concerned.			Just Brew ON!  If you got em
and want to... use em.  If not DON"T WORRY			The Coyote

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: dcb@rosedale.uucp (Dave Breneman)
Subject: Re: REQUEST: Cider Recipes
Organization: The Spud Goodman Show
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1992 23:01:05 GMT

In article <1711@grivel.une.edu.au> scampbe1@metz.une.edu.au (Stephen Campbell) writes:
>I'm after recipes for Apple Cider using Apple Juice and/or Apple Juice
>concentrate.
>
I've never tried this, and I've never heard of anybody doing it either.
Apple juice is by definition pasteurized, usually contains
"preservatives" (to kill the yeast) and may be reconstituted as 
well, so for all intents and purposes its dead.  There is no real
recipe for making cider - in fact its nearly impossible to *prevent*
raw cider from turning hard.  The fermentation is caused by a yeast
that lives on the skin of the apple.  You might try getting a few fresh
apples (like, off a tree, not from a store - store-bought ones are
usually treated with insecticides, etc., which while they pose no
danger since the apple is well-washed before sale, probably don't have
very healthy yeast living on them) and putting them through a blender
them mixing that puree with the apple juice.  That *may* work, I
don't know.  Fermentation takes about a month in a refrigerator with
the cider in a container with an air lock.  One of the best things
about making cider is taking the cloudy raw cider which is almost
too sweet to drink, and over the course of a month watching it turn
clear and golden and carbonated and drinkable.  Anyway, siphon off the
cider, then bottle it and let it sit in the fridge for another week
or two and you should have carbonated apple cider.  But will it work
with apple *juice*?  Let us know what kind of luck you have - then
*you'll* be the expert! :-)


-- 
David Breneman            #################          Historical revisionism:
The Spud Goodman Show      ####### #######           Elvis Presley was a joke
dcb@rosedale.uucp           #####   #####            A washed-up has-been.
 ..uunet!camco!rosedale!dcb      (_)  - - - Ciao.    Then he died... The King!
From: slndw@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: ROACHES !
Date: 4 Sep 92 11:35:14 MDT
Organization: Utah State University

In article <1992Sep3.203357.26365@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu>, dsbb@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (D. SPENCER BEECHER) writes:
> In article <1992Sep01.193459.27755@srg.srg.af.mil>, akerson@deimos.srg.af.mil (P
> ete Akerson - akerson%srg@uunet.uucp) writes:
>

stuff deleted
  
> A little boric acid (available at many hardware stores) sprinkled on the floor
> around the perimeter of the room will deter the little buggers.  As they walk
> across it, dragging their little bodies behind, it gets into their breathing
> apparatus and they suffocate.  This insecticidic method is more mechanical
> than chemical, and there's less risk of contaminating nearby foodstuffs!


more stuff deleted

>
> -- 
>                    _ _     _ _     _ _
>   -Spence         [O.O]   )x.x(   )O.O(
>                     O       O      -*-


Actually, orthoboric acid does not suffocate the little dudes.  It works
like this:  Roaches have a thin waxy layer on the outside of their carapace
(exo-skeleton, shell, whatever).  This wax keeps the  cute little guy
from dehydrating.  The Orthoboric acid is an abrasive and it makes
tiny scratches in this waxy layer.  Our friend the roach then carries 
some of this stuff back to his home and family and some of it gets on them.
They all dehydrate slowly.  I am quite sure it would be a painfull death.
But people generally don't care about roaches.  Shoot a dog or cat or 
bunny or bambi and people go nuts, but torture a bug and people aplaud.
Boy, humans are strange!!

-toot

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: drw@blink.att.com (Doug Woolley(x2405))
Subject: JERSEY SHORE BREWERS PIGROAST
Organization: AT&T
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 19:04:46 GMT
Summary: JERSEY SHORE BREWERS PIGROAST
Keywords: PIGROAST


For those of you in the NJ area, there will be the first
annual pigroast hosted by the newly formed Jersey Shore
Homebrewers Club on September 19, 1992 at the Sandy  Hook
Coast Guard station.  The event starts at 2 pm and tickets
are now being sold for $10 ahead of time, $12 at the door.
Fellow homebrewers in the area are invited to attend.
Included in the price is a mug commemorating the event.
Those interested in more details/directions can call
the Red Bank Brewing Supply at 908-842-7507.
Although I'm happy to post this bit of news, I will not
be able to field any responses, so please call the store
to learn more.

Doug Woolley
From: comfrank@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (Frank Tutzauer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Where's Murph
Date: 1 Sep 92 00:04:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

Well, the full moon was about two weeks ago.  Should be time to
bottle soon, right Murph?  How 'bout a progress report.

--frank
From: slk6p@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Where's Murph
Date: 31 Aug 92 23:31:10 MDT
Organization: Utah State University

In article <BtvHKD.Hoz@acsu.buffalo.edu>, comfrank@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (Frank Tutzauer) writes:
> Well, the full moon was about two weeks ago.  Should be time to
> bottle soon, right Murph?  How 'bout a progress report.
> 
> --frank

Ya know i've been wondering about that 'ol boy!  It has been a while since we
heard from him, after having heard SO MUCH from him.  Has he forgotten about
his wort ferment?  Did it all spew over into the toilet, and he's too
embarassed to let us know?  I was kinda expecting a day-by-day account of the
ferment itself- from the roaring blow off to the spew-less secondary.  I've
just bottled/kegged my full moon beer.  It is about time.  Sure we got another
couple days/ a week till tasting,  but there's still plently of bantering to be
had.  			Where are you Murph??????			JDW

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: cav@bnr.ca (Rick Cavasin)
Subject: Re: HOMEBREW Digest #954
Reply-To: cav@bnr.ca (Rick Cavasin)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 92 12:46:14 GMT

Easy siphon starting:

Whenever I need to siphon, I invariably have to sterilize some sort of
container as well (carboy, bucket, whatever).  So I have a container full
of sanitizing solution.  When it comes time to empty the solution, I simply
siphon it out using the siphon hose I am planning on using.  I start it
with my mouth, and let the end I've sucked on sit in the bucket that's
catching the solution - thus sanitizing the end I've sucked on.  Before
the vessel originally containing the solution is emply, I stop the flow
with a hose clamp.  I can then rinse off the outside of the siphon hose,
and then siphon clean water thru it to rinse the inside, again stopping
the flow before it runs empty.  I now have a sanitized, rinsed, siphon
hose filled with clean water that I can start siphoning with simply
by opening the hose clamp.  No smoke, no mirrors.


Cheers,
Rick C.