HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: hdasilva@cs.ulowell.edu (Herbert DaSilva)
Subject: Re: Spirit ES handling for Acclaim
Organization: University of Massachusetts at Lowell Computer Science
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 02:12:25 GMT

>virgo@metter.fmpmis.metter.com (curious vIRgO) writes:

>>It's me, Acclaim-man again!
>>I'll be brief. I love my Acclaim,BUT, I'd like to have the handling 
>>characteristics of the Spirit ES (and the four-speed,but I'll live with
>>that). I had the chance to pull my Acclaim next to a person's Spirit ES

  Strange as it sounds, you could just go down to your local Dodge dealer,
and get the springs from them!!  They run about $50 a piece, and they'll be
able to install them (steep labor $$ though).  You could also look into MOOG
"cargo coils", which might stiffen you up a bit in the turns, while still
giving a good ride.  If all else fails, you could call Mopar Performance.
Or (blatant plug ahead) you could join the Shelby Dodge Auto Club.  We know
all the secrets.

Oh yes, and by the way,    I'M BACK!!

	Herb "Mopar Maniac" DaSilva
From: mja@philabs.philips.com (Michael Amato)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Steam Clean Engine
Date: 28 Jul 92 13:33:27 GMT
Reply-To: mja@philabs.philips.com (Michael Amato)
Organization: Philips Laboratories, Briarcliff, NY 10510
Originator: mja@hercules


I like to use a garden spray can filled with diluted household
detergent or diluted gunk engine cleaner (better). High pressure
should not be necessary. After I let it set for about 15 min.
I just hose it off, or use the sprayer for rinsing.

I know someone who pushed a section of his valve cover gasket in
using a high pressure spray gun. Talk about a mess, the oil didn't
start coming out until after he had left the wash. Needless to say
it made quite a mess.

Mike.
From: livneh@wells.rutgers.edu (Shai Livneh)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Ford Mustang, GT, 5.0L, V8
Date: 21 Jul 92 18:46:30 GMT
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

In reply to Mr. John Daker's comment about my ability to format the 
previous letter I would like to apologize to the netters.  If any of 
you were offended by the scramble of lines it was due to my typing
of the original letter on a sun computer which allows more characters
to be written per line on the screen.  I resent Mr. Daker's comment
on the state of higher education, especially since it involves the
above incident which pertained to me.  If Mr. Daker has any comments
on the issue at hand (being the Ford Mustang) I'm sure we'd all love
to hear about it.
						Shai Livneh
						Rutgers University
From: jdg40@pecan.spa.amdahl.com (Jeff Gee)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Opinions on Yokohama A403
Date: 21 Jul 92 23:00:31 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Amdahl Corporation  Sunnyvale, CA

I'm in need of some 195/50R15's for my 1984 VW Scirocco,
and both my local Price Club and Costco are selling
Yokohama A403s in that size (V-rated).  Price is roughly 
$90/tire.

Anyone have any opinions, pro or con, on the performance of
these tires and their value based on the above price?

Thanks,
	Jeff Gee
	jdg40@spa.amdahl.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: cvolle@uceng.UC.EDU (charles volle)
Subject: Cooland Specific Gravity?
Organization: College of Engineering, University of Cincinnati
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 17:08:53 GMT

		Could someone please post or email the following info?

	What should the Specific gravity be for Antifreeze/water
coolant mixture in your radiator?

	Thanks in advance!!! chuck volle  cvolle@uceng.uc.edu
From: stuart@ee.fit.edu (William Stuart)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: How to determine year of a car?
Date: 30 Jul 92 22:19:06 GMT
Organization: Florida Tech, CP/EE Dept.


sachin@sdd.hp.com (Sachin Naik) writes:

Sachin> I was wondering how to determine the year a car was
Sachin> manufactured.  I was thinking of getting a 87-89 Integra and
Sachin> if I get an 89, I want to make sure it's not an 87 or 88.  Is
Sachin> there something on the car that tells you what year it is?


	One way to get into the ballpark it to check any permanent 
lights on the car.  There is always a 2 digit year marked somewhere on the 
lenses.  This appears to be the year the lens was designed.  Most cars go 
through frequent enough cosmetic changes that you will be within 2-3 years.

	If my memory serves me, several cosmetic changes were made between
the years you mention.  In particular, they went from a pair of forward-
pointing turn inidicators to wrap-around types that doubled as side markers.
Check these lenses for the year.

  Bill Stuart

	stuart@ee.fit.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: weller@osiris.cso.uiuc.edu (Bonnie Weller)
Subject: Midas and Custom Built vs Factory Made Q's
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 17:35:22 GMT


Hi,

I took my car into Midas a few weeks ago and had them do an estimate.
They told me I had a hole in the pipe next to the muffler and that
the long pipe from the catalitic converter to the smaller pipe would
also need replacing as it could 'go any time'.  Since this longer
pipe was $100 plus additional labor ($25) I told Midas I would have to
think about it.  I took it home and discussed it with my husband and
we decided since money was tight we would have them just replace the
smaller $25 pipe and the muffler, which was under warrenty.  So I
took it back and told Midas this.  They took a look at the muffler
again and told me they would not do the work that day because
there was a good chance the lip on the longer pipe which connects the
shorter pipe could very easily be rusted off and when they went to
put the shorter pipe on they would not get a good seal.  Since they
did not have a longer pipe in stock they recommended I come back next
week for the full work.  Needless to say I am wondering just what is
going on here.  I feel that they are trying to get me to buy more than
I want.

I called another muffler shop and asked them about the possiblity of a
lip rusting out.  They did not say outright that this was unlikely
but I got the impression that the mechanic was surprised at Midas's
explanation.

So my questions are:

1.  Is this lip rusting out on the longer pipe a legit explanation?
BTW, I drive an 87 Camry. I keep it in excellent conditon and wash it
often in the winter.

2.  I have heard Midas has a reputation of trying to sell you stuff
that isn't really necessary to replace, especially if you look like a
gullible female.  Has anyone had experiences to confirm this?

3.  I decided that even if I do need to relace these two pipes, I
will go elsewhere (Midas can still replace the muffler though).  In
in this case I have two options, I can buy a factory built pipe that
goes from the converter to the muffler for $135 (including parts and
labor) or have the muffler shop custom build one for $85.  Is there a
difference in quality between these two types of mufflers?  Which
option would you recommend me buying?  

Thanks for the advice in advance.

Bonnie
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: twong@civil.ubc.ca (Thomas Wong)
Subject: Re: ECLIPSE/LASER/TALON PERFORMANCE ENHANCEMENTS
Organization: Dept. of Civil Engineering, U.B.C., Vancouver, B.C., Canada
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 23:45:29 GMT

In article <1992Jul23.134338.18170@dvorak.amd.com> martin@dvorak.amd.com (Martin Schuessler) writes:
>Howdy, y'all:
>
>Do any of you have experience with FLOWMASTER (or similar) muffler replacements
>in the above mentioned cars (or similar) ???? The same goes for the engine
>CHIP replacements (are those even available for the Diamond star turbos ?).
>
>I'm interested in these two cheap and easy perfomance upgradesfor my '91
>Turbo Eclipse - any replies welcome !!!!
>
>Martin

Well, it's about time for my once_in_a_blue_moon ad compaign again. So
here we go.....

I'm not sure if you already know but there is a mailing list for the
Diamond Star cars (Talon/Laser/Eclipse) filled with owners and
owners-to-be. We talk about everything from pricing to car modifications. 
You can get on the list by emailing to "diginst!todd@radius.com". Todd is 
the list manager and he'll send you all that you'll need. There is also a 
parallel archive that goes along with this list with lots of info filed.

I'm also a member of the MDSOG (Mitsubitshi Diamond Star Owners Group).
This one needs $$$ but you get discounts on a lot of things from
resorts to after market performance upgrades (like the famous HKS stages
or the Archer brother who have took their Archer Talons into the winner
circles many years in a row, from 24 hrs endurance to ralleyes). There
is also a newsletter and it's nationwide. The Newsletter has a lot of 
stuff on mods, from simply changing spark plugs, to HKS stages. If you
are interested, let me know.

Thomas.

--
    /*----------------------------------------------------------------------*/
   /*   Thomas Y. K. Wong            BITNET:        usercedl@ubcmtsg       */
  /*   Civil Eng., U.B.C       INTERNET:     thomas_wong@civil.ubc.ca     */
 /*   Van, B.C., Canada    UUCP:   ...!van-bc!civil.ubc.ca!thomas_wong   */
/*----------------------------------------------------------------------*/
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: tpaquette@ita.lgc.com (Trevor Paquette)
Subject: Unmarked COP Cars (Was Re: More CHP shit!)
Organization: Landmark/ITA Inverse Theory and Applications
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 16:02:56 GMT


   In Alberta I have seen Mustang 5.0l being used on the highway between
 Calgary and Edmonton.
   In BC I got pulled over by a Jet Black 1991 Thunderbird (Trubo?). Totally
 unmarked. The rear windows were tinted really dark. It looked just like
 any other Thunderbird. Until it was about 50 feet away from me and then
 my radar detector went nuts... 

   I was going one way and he was going the other. He didn't even pulse
 any of the cars in front of me. I was 4th in a pack of 6 cars spaced about
 150 feet from each other. He picked me out of all of them.. that's what you
 get when you drive a 'German Driving Sensation'..

--
Name : Trevor Paquette       | Landmark/ITA             |   _\___ Fahrvergnugen
Email: tpaquette@ita.lgc.com | Calgary, Alberta, Canada |  /     \____         
Visitor from CyberSpace      | (403) 269-4669           | / G60       \        
Renegade of Virtual Reality  | #include <disclaimer.h>  | \-O------O--/        
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: mike%jim.uucp@wupost.wustl.edu (Mike Suter)
Subject: Re: Connolly Hide Food
Organization: BITS, St. Louis, MO
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 20:52:59 GMT

paasch@kepler.ME.ORST.EDU (Bob Paasch) writes:

>>A while back I remember seeing some positive reviews of a treatment
>>for leather seats called "Connolly Hide Food", or something close to
>>that.

>Try your local Jaguar or Porsche dealer.  Expect to pay
>about $10 for a jar.  The stuff is worth it (IMHO).

Does this stuff leave a 'greasy' residue, like Mink Oil? Lexol is
advertised as not leaving a residue, but I haven't tried it.

Mike
-- 
mike%jim.uucp@wupost.wustl.edu
From: sddascomb@ucdavis.edu (Steve Dascomb)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Power of a Blow Out
Date: 31 Jul 92 18:01:50 GMT
Organization: UC Davis
X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1b2

In large US cars with V8's with power steering, I've had two front
tire blowouts, and you can barely tell anythings wrong. Just a little 
more road noise and a slight pull.  'Merican engineering!
										Steve Dascomb
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: edf277s@mings2.cc.monash.edu.au (V.S.T. Hii)
Subject: test
Organization: Monash University, Melb., Australia.
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 04:44:06 GMT

testing!!!

Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: cbh@opus.mlb.semi.harris.com (Cherie Slasor)
Subject: Re: advice needed: 1992 Dodge Caravan
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 13:52:06 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

In article <92204.30103.6310550@LMSC5.IS.LMSC.LOCKHEED.COM> 6310550@LMSC5.IS.LMSC.LOCKHEED.COM writes:
>I am considering purchasing a 1992 Dodge Caravan.  Anybody that has
>one please let me know how you like it ?  I'm a bit leary about getting
>a Chrysler product after having serious break problems with my 1989
>Jeep.  Are the child seats worth getting ?  How well do they hold up ?
>I have a 3.5 yr old & a 9 mos old.  The 9 mos old was pre-occupied
>with pulling on the seat pads that were 'velcrowed' on.  Has anybody
>had transmission problems like with previous years models ?  Any
>feedback will be greatly appreciated...
>
>Thanks,
>Debbie Hoffman

My husband has a 1987 Caravan that still runs perfectly.  The only trouble
he's ever had was a dead A/C compressor, which went out at about 70,000
miles.  He has 120,000 miles on it now.  Granted, he has been religious
about servicing at the manual-recommended times, oil changes, tire rotations,
and so on, but overall he's been real happy with it.  

I can't comment on the child seats, since our son is 17 years old and we
gave up on trying to stuff him in those little seats.  :^)


-- 
====================================================================
Cherie Slasor			     |	Harris Semiconductor
Phone:    (407) 724-7607	     |	P.O. Box 883, MS #62B-022
          cbh@mlb.semi.harris.com    |  Melbourne, FL   32902-0883
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: sharen@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com (Sharen A. Rund)
Subject: Re: hotrod mailing list alive?
Organization: Lockheed Missiles and Space Co.
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 92 14:31:38 GMT

Mike_Iwasaki@mindlink.bc.ca (Mike Iwasaki) writes:
: I subscribed to the hotrod mailing list about three weeks ago and got a few
: messages the next day but since then I haven't received anything. Is this
: normal or did something get messed up?
: 
I'm in the same boat - I was receiving some mail, then suddenly, poooof -
no more to be seen or heard from again

what happened ???

this was especially nice since I can't get to alt.autos.antique

: 
-- 
________________       __        ________________   "They that can give up
\_________      \     /_ \      /      _________/  essential liberty to 
 \_________      \_____/  \____/      _________/  obtain temporary safety
  \___________________      __________________/  deserve neither liberty
From: crash@hal.com (Chris Craddock)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: 300Z vs. M3
Date: 31 Jul 1992 15:47:51 GMT
Organization: HaL Computer Systems
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: sydney.hal.com

In article <SUDEEP.92Jul29175054@pundit.arc.UUCP>, sudeep@arc.UUCP (Sudeep Sharma) writes:
|> 
|>  I would take the V6 non-turbo over the M3 anyday.
|>  Its foolish to even compare 300ZXTT to M3!
|> 
|>  Have any of you folks ever driven a 300ZXTT.
|> 
|>  Sudeep.

zamattera fact, I drive one every day.

:O)
-- 
"That's the problem with nature, something's always stinging you
 or oozing mucous all over you. Let's go and watch TV"  - Calvin

crash@hal.com   		HaL Computer Systems Inc.
(408) 379-7000 x1163		1315 Dell Ave. Campbell CA 95008
From: rcg1597@zeus.tamu.edu (GUYNN, RICHARD CARL)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: U-Joints, effects of ignoring?
Date: 30 Jul 92 19:39:00 GMT
Organization: Texas A&M University, Academic Computing Services
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <1992Jul30.182230.9132@hubcap.clemson.edu>, jlysagh@hubcap.clemson.edu (james joseph lysaght) writes...
>Got a quesiton...
>Recently my 74 caddilac has developed a severe squeek in the u-joint.
>It needs to be replaced.  Is this too difficult to do in an apartment
>parking lot with car up on ramps?  How time consuming is the job and
>whst is involved?  What kind of time constrain am I looking at before I

	You need a press.  You can take the drive shaft out in the parking lot 
and take it somewhere to get the u-joint changed.  Then put the shaft back in.

>absolutely can not drive the car, or is it too late already?  I
>understand that it is possible for the drive shaft to fall from the car
>if this is ignored.  How likely is this?  How long can I go before this

	Mine fell out before I realized it was the problem.  Luckily I was just 
pulling out of the parkking lot at work, not on the freeway at high speeds

>happens?  If I ignore the problem for a week or two or more am I risking
>damage to other parts of the car as well?


	I guess you could lose your drveshaft, at which point most of the 
transmission fluid exits through the hole in the back.....

Luck to you..
Rick

***************************************************************************
*Rick Guynn -MG driver wanna-be.  *  MGA 1600 MkII                        *
*RCG1597@zeus.tamu.edu            *  Rebuild (complete) to be finished ?? *
*Texas A&M University             *                                       *
*Keeper of the eternal octagon    *                                       *
* a.k.a. The marque symbol that   *                                       *
*        refuses to die.          *                                       *
***************************************************************************
From: esprit@netcom.com (Alan F. Perry)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: How to determine year of a car?
Date: 24 Jul 92 00:26:08 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest)

In article <SYNTH.92Jul22171304@deepthought.unm.edu> synth@deepthought.unm.edu (Synth F. Oberheim) writes:
>
>sachin@sdd.hp.com (Sachin Naik) writes:
>
>Sachin> I was wondering how to determine the year a car was
>Sachin> manufactured.  I was thinking of getting a 87-89 Integra and
>Sachin> if I get an 89, I want to make sure it's not an 87 or 88.  Is
>Sachin> there something on the car that tells you what year it is?
>
>Well, the Owner's Manual should proudly display the model year of the
>car.  Regarding the Integra, there are two different designs.  The
>first generation, 1986-1988, had retractable headlights; and the
>current generation, 1989-1992, has visible headlights, is wider, has
>a longer wheelbase, and is much more smooth in appearance than its
>boxier predecessor.  I can get into more minute differences between
>model years, so email me if the Owner's Manual course-of-action doesn't

He should be able to check the VIN.  Presuming the format is the same as
Honda, it is:

   aaabbbcdefghhhhhh

   where aaa is a code for the manufacturer.  For my Canadian-made Civic,
                  it is 2HG.  Other Hondas are JHM (Japan) and 1HG (U.S.)
         bbb is a code for the line/engine.  For my 1500cc Hatchback, it
                  is ED6.  Other Civics are ED3 (sedan) and ED7 (1600 HB)
         c is a code for transmission/body style.  For my 5-speed hatchback
                  (as well as 4-speed HBs), it is 3.  Other possible numbers
                  are 4 (automatic HBs), 5 (5-speed sedan) and 6 (auto sedan)
         d is a code for the model.  It is used in combination with the line/
                  engine code.  For my DX hatchback, it is 5.  5 is also used
                  for LX sedans.  Other possible numbers are 4 for STD HBs
                  and DX sedans and 6 for Si HBs
         e is a check digit
         f is a code for the MODEL YEAR.  For my 1989, it is K.  I am pretty
                  sure you can add or subtract for other letters.
         g is a code for factory.  For my Ontario, Canada-built car, it is H.
                  Other possible values are A (Ohio) and S (Suzuka (Hi, F1
                  fans), Japan)
         h is the serial number

Strictly speaking, this sould just be for Civics, but I am sure the same
format is used for Acuras, particularly if you just want to check the year
without just looking at the Federal certification plate in the driver side
door area.

alan
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: luoni@jasper.mlb.semi.harris.com (Perry Luoni)
Subject: Re: Horsepower is a mean
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 13:28:08 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

In article <12614.2A71C001@ofa123.Fidonet.org> Larry.Mc.Donald@ofa123.Fidonet.org (Larry Mc Donald) writes:
>   PVC pipe is actually *illegal* to use in a compressed air
>applications. If you hit it or somehow damage pvc pipe with
>compressed air in it, it turns into a shrapnel bomb.
>   That being said, I use schedule 80 pvc pipe for air line all
>the time. I wouldn't dream of using anything less than Sch.80,
>but I've never had a problem with it yet.

You could cover the pipe with a wooden or metal frame so as to contain any
shrapnel that might be created.  It would also help avoid damage to the PVC
pipe.  I have seen this grey conduit plastic pipe that is much more flexible
than PVC.  It dosen't seem like it would shatter like PVC. Maybe it could be
used.  I don't remember the technical term for it but it is used for electrical
couduit.  Anyway, if it's for your own use, screw the "law" and do what you
want. 
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: jonathan@netcom.com (Jonathan Ridder)
Subject: Re: REPLACING EXHAUST SYSTEM
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 92 07:20:21 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 

erich.lim@cutting.hou.tx.us (Erich Lim)  writes:

>  Go for a Dynomax exhaust.  They are cheaper, pretty good, and are all
>aluminum.  I prefer Borla's over Dynomax, but the Dynomax's are cheaper
>only because they aren't stainless steel.  The Borla's also are louder
>and have a beefier sounding tone.

I have two Borla's in my Buick V6 powered 510.  They are very well
made, but they are a bit too loud for me.  They seem to be the only
stainless steel mufflers around.  I was able to get mine for (I think)
$98 each from (gasp) J.C. Whitney.  J.C. Whitney sells a lot of junk,
but if you are careful and look closely at the descriptions, you can
sometimes get good deals (I also got some VDO night design gauges from
them.)

-- 
 "I don't mind Tigger being in the Forest," Eeyore went on, "because it's    
 a large Forest, and there's plenty of room to bounce in it.  But I don't
 see why he should come into my little corner of it, and bounce there."
   A.A. Milne                                         jonathan@netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: curtis@achilles.ctd.anl.gov (Jeffrey S. Curtis)
Subject: Re: SUMMARY Remote Radar Detectors Test
Organization: Argonne National Laboratory
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 16:13:07 GMT

In article <1992Jul21.082923.18340@usenet.ins.cwru.edu>, an660@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Sandy Maurer) writes:
|> A friend said to me I only need a cheap model that has all the
|> bands such as the Whistler 680 for $80. He said if I pay more
|> than $100 Im just wasting my money. Is he correct?

No.  The 680 only covers a small portion of the Ka band.  It does
not do broadband ("wideband" or "stalker") Ka.  Also, it does not
cover lidar.  The cheapest detectors that I know of that cover
stalker/broadband Ka are at least $150 or so; lidar detectors are
still emerging.

Jeff
--
       Jeffrey S. Curtis         | Internet: curtis@anl.gov
Computing and Telecommunications | BITnet:   curtis at anlvm
  Argonne National Laboratory    | X.400:    /PN=Jeffrey.Curtis/O=olivia
        +1 708/252-5031          |           /PRMD=anl/ADMD= /C=US/
Newsgroups: rec.autos,rec.autos.tech,alt.autos.antique