HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: dpl@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (douglas.p.linden)
Subject: Re: Protecting our interests (was: Re: SURVEY: Home mech's favs)
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 17:33:47 GMT

In article <1992Aug19.150124.22672@mcnc.org>, brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks) writes:
> In article <1992Aug19.062857.19702@mr.med.ge.com> hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987) writes:
> >ira b ekhaus (ibe@world.std.com) wrote:
> >
> >smoky, carburetted, 2-stroke SAABs, because I won't give them up for any damn
> >POLITICIAN!
> 
> A number of magazines, especially Old Cars Weekly, have been tracking the 
> activities of our congressmen in Washington. In a typical knee jerk political
> stupor, there have been a number "clunker" bills introduced to Congress in the
> past 2-3 years designed to rid the roads of older cars via pollution credit
> incentives and whatnot. Sen William Roth has been the most prolific introducer
> of these bills. Most have died, but there is currently one in the Senate on
> this subject (don't have the bill # with me).
> 
> I will post the bill # if those of you in netland are interested in following
> up on this.
>  
> Ted Brooks
>  ______________________________________________________________________
> | Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are my own, and do not reflect    |
> | those of my employer. Advice is free, but you get what you pay for.  |
> |                               ________                               |
> |                         _____|  1955  |_______                       |
> |                        /      Chevrolet      /                       |
> |                       /______  BelAir  _____/                        |
> |                              |________|                              |
> |______________________________________________________________________|


Please post the bill #.  Our state (MA) association of auto clubs keeps
track of state and fed legislation affecting our hobby.
Thanks in advance
From: simnet@ssc-vax.boeing.com (Mark R Poulson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: wattage
Summary: Now for the real answer...
Date: 13 Aug 92 17:27:30 GMT
Organization: Boeing Defense and Space Group, Seattle WA

In article <1992Aug11.154208.15915@ncar.ucar.edu>, cbh@windsurf.scd.ucar.edu (Cris Hannu) writes:
> In article <kelley.713508186@cwis>, kelley@cwis.unomaha.edu (Sean Kelley) writes:
> > okay, here is what i think to be a stupic question...but I need an
> > answer...i was in an auto part store looking for driving lights...and I
> > saw that they sold different wattage bulbs for the lights..all I need to
> > know, what is the wattage of a normal hallogen head light...that way I
> > know what driving lights to get...
> > 
> 55 watts is the *legal* maximum for street use.

Correct answer, but this is not the question that Sean asked.

Old car headlights are 55 watts, the halogen ones are 35 watts. Both produce
roughly the same amount of light, although the halogen lamp produces whiter
light. Any law that regulates light output by wattage is simply stupid.

		Mark
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kenny@osf.org (Kenneth Crudup)
Subject: Re: Petrol leak
Summary: Fiiiiiiiiyuh!
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 1992 22:13:31 GMT

In article <53110022@hpsgm2.sgp.hp.com>
leonglaw@hpsgm2.sgp.hp.com (Lawrence Leong) writes:
>Is there any method of checking for petrol leaks?

Smartassed answer: Yup. With a match. :-)

	-Kenny "how d'ya make a cat go "WOOF"? Crudup

-- 
Kenneth R. Crudup, Contractor, OSF DCE QA
OSF, 11 Cambridge Center, Cambridge, MA 02142	+1 617 621 7306
kenny@osf.osf.org			OSF has nothing to do with this post.
Not one of the "PC" weenies.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: shoppa@erin.caltech.edu (TIM SHOPPA)
Subject: Re: Natural Gas Power (the real reason)
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: California Institute of Technology
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 17:39:00 GMT

In my hometown, the school buses were converted over to natural gas
while I was in high school.  As I understand, the conversion was fairly
easy to do - mainly adding some big tanks to hold the gas.  (This was 
about ten years ago).

One of my teachers at the time was on the city council and knew a little
bit about the reasons for the conversion.  One of the big reasons, he said,
was that the school district expected to save money in the long run because
the drivers could no longer siphon gasoline out of the tanks for their
own use!  This makes some sense, as most all conversions to natural gas
are of fleets!

				Tim (Shoppa@erin.caltech.edu)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: '57 TR3 no engine go jap?
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 22 Aug 92 08:45:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * Jacksonville AR USA * 501-985-0059


-> The Triumph engine is perfectly OK. Even the dreaded Lucas Electrics
-> aren't as bad as they're made out to be. Fix the Triumph

 It doesn't *have* a Triumph engine.  Just an empty hole.


-> Put a modern, powerful engine into that chassis, and you're going to
-> get yourself killed. It isn't up to it.

 Baloney.  The original agricultural-spec engine would make the car go
fast enough to kill you; that's as fast as you can go.

 Would you like me to tell you about some of my engine swaps, which
obviously didn't kill me?  The 400 Chevy-into-Spitfire, the 455
Olds-into-Capri?  There's people running around here with 350 Chevys in
Porsche 914s and 454s in VW Beetles, too.  Or we could point the finger
at some British factory swaps - Sunbeam Tiger, AC 289, TVR 289, TR8, MGB
GT V8, Nash-Healey, Allard, and so forth?
From: lee@Gwinnett.COM (Lee Reese)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: mMobil 1 through mail order
Date: 22 Aug 92 23:55:55 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Gwinnett Computer Services, Atlanta(Duluth), GA


Are there any mail-order companies that sell Mobil 1 or equivalent?
I would be willing to buy several cases if I could get a good deal.

Thanks in advance,
Lee Reese
lee@gwinnett.com
From: spenser@fudd.jsc.nasa.gov (Spenser Aden)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Sensor light for Nissan Pickup
Summary: Slick Nissan move
Date: 12 Aug 1992 18:03:48 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Lockheed, NASA Johnson Space Center, Houston

In article <80044@bcsaic.boeing.com> rkg5850@bcsaic.boeing.com (Ron Gabel) writes:
>I have a 1986 Nissan Pickup 720-D that I purchased with 95,000 miles.
>At exactly 100,000 miles, an oxygen sensor light came on and I would
>like to know how to turn it off.  The truck runs great, and the
>dealership wants $300 for a "complete tune-up" and to turn the light off.
>I have tried to disconnect the battery but no luck.  Before I yank the 
>bulb, thought I'd ask the net.

I have an '87 Sentra SE, and my Sensor light comes on every 30,000 miles.  The
idea of having the emissions line checked is a good one, and shouldn't be 
completely ignored.  (So much for playing the devil's advocate).

NOW ... should you want to skip the check and reset the light, you have to do 
some searching.  In my vehicle, the switch is located behind the passenger's
side kick panel.  Take off a few screws, remoce the panel, and there's a 
switch with a black button on top.  Simply press the button, and you're light
is off til the next interval.  When I researched how to find my switch on the
net about a year ago, I got a LOT of responses telling me where this box was.
It appears that Nissan decides to change the location every two model years, if
not every year.  Some people said it was under the fuse box (or maybe behind), 
others I believe found it in the engine well, etc...   If it isn't under the
passenger's side kick panel, look around for a simple metal box with a single
black rubber button on top or side ... that's probably it.

I don't know if the shop manual mentions this, but I suppose it probably does.
That is, if you spent the $$ for it.  

Good luck.  
-Spenser

-- 
--
-Spenser
x32028
From: macman+@pitt.edu (Dennis H Lippert)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 90 Escort GT engine race at idle ?
Date: 21 Aug 92 15:54:46 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Pittsburgh

In article <1992Aug19.122151.6091@unvax.union.edu> romansks@unvax.union.edu (Steve Romanski) writes:

>I do tend to believe that the problem probably can't be fixed be
>fixed especiall by an "oxy'moron'"  like a 'Ford Mechanic'. :(

I'll have you know that Ford probably has the most experienced 
mechanics around!

(give that a moment to soak in.... whoa, look out, here come the flames!)
-Den
-- 
===============================================================================
Dennis Lippert   -   macman+@pitt.edu or macman@vm2.cis.pitt.edu
The "Mac Maniac" operator at the Hillman Research Lab - Univ. of Pittsburgh
"All comments are mine, you'd look like a fool if *you* used them"
From: bruno@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Bruno Melli)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 16:30:09 GMT
Subject: Coil failure ?
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech


On a 89 Jeep Wrangler (4.2L 6 cyl inline).

What is the most likely cause of not getting the spark plugs to fire ?

This is an intermittent problem. I drive my car home no problem. The
following day no way to start it. Then the following day it starts
on the first try...

When it started to happen I changed the wire that goes from the coil
to the distributor. (After noticing that shaking this wire sometimes
fixed the problem.) I also changed the spark plugs. This appeared
to solve the problem at the time. But now (couple of weeks later) it
is back to the same symptoms.

- Does a coil fail all at once or do you get these kind of 
  intermittent failures ?
- What about the distributor.

Thanks,

bruno.
From: isjrc@dcatla.uucp (John R. Caruso)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Toxic parts' disposal?
Date: 14 Aug 92 11:45:13 GMT
Organization: Digital Communications Associates, Alpharetta, GA

In article <1992Aug11.060858.2601@mr.med.ge.com>, hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987) writes:
> lung@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Terence Lung) writes:
> : Here's a query for netters:
> : 
> : Does anyone know of any environmentally sound options
> : to dispose of automotive stuff like fuel filters, air filters,
> : spark plugs, oil filters, etc?
> : 
> : I know gas stations will take used motor oil.  What is
> : there to do with all the other junk?
> : 
> Yes, especially antifreeze.  I really hate just dumping it into
> my gravel driveway, but what am I supposed to do with it?  How
> about brake fluid?      
> 
>      
> --
> 
> Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
> SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.
> hinz@picard.med.ge.com



	On the Prestone bottles, it says to dump the old anti-freeze 
	down the toilet and NOT in the ground or storm sewer.

jRc
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Blueprinting - What is it.
Date: 21 Aug 92 16:11:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * Jacksonville AR USA * 501-985-0059


-> I always thought it meant rebuilding the engine to the "loose" end of
-> the factory specs. This would mean less friction and more HP but less
-> longivity.

 Building engines "loose" went out of favor about thirty years ago, at
least among reputable shops and race builders.  Good shops bring
clearances down to the bare minimum in most circumstances.

 Opening up bearing clearances causes shear drag; this drastically
increases bearing drag and heats the oil.  Opening up the bores doesn't
let the piston contact the walls well, resulting in improper cooling and
poor ring seal.  Etc.  A "worn out" Grand National or sprint motor is
usually tighter than a stock one off the assembly line.
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: DOT 3 vs 4 Brake Fluid
Date: 19 Aug 92 07:04:13 GMT
Article-I.D.: mr.1992Aug19.070413.20195
Distribution: usa
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5

Valentin Popescu (vpopesc@opus.uucp) wrote:
: In article <nataraja.714183959@marble> nataraja@rtsg.mot.com (Vel Natarajan) writes:
: >I just had my brake fluid replaced.  The garage put in
: >DOT-4 brake fluid, but when I got home, the lid on my
: >fluid reservoir said "Dot-3" only.
: >
: >What's the difference between 3 and 4?  I was told that
: >4 mainly had higher max operating temps.  Anything
: >else?  Is it OK for my car?  I've got an '89 Probe GT
: >by the way.  Thanks for any info.
: 
: I believe DOT4 are more vulnerable to moisture, but give you better
: braking...

My understanding is that DOT4 is superior to DOT3 in all ways.  The reason your
'89 says dot3 only may be because there used to be stuff worse than that sold.

Most cars that I've seen now say DOT4 only.  Castrol GTX is what I use, and
what my dealer reccomends, BTW.

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.
hinz@picard.med.ge.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: russell@ncube.com (Russell Randolph)
Subject: Idle speed won't adjust lower than 1200RPM
Keywords: 2.8L V6, idle speed
Organization: nCUBE CORPORATION
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 18:22:58 GMT


I have an '84 Chevy S-10 w/ 2.8 liter V6.  Just rebuilt the carb.  Truck
has much more power, but the minimum idle speed setting is 1200 RPM!  Yet
the throttle valve appears to be completely closed.  Here is what I've done
to try and find the problem:

- Check mixture via propane enrichment.
- Check all vacuum connections, including disconnecting one at a time
  and placing finger over carb connection).
- Check EGR valve (actually plugged inlet to carb to be sure it wasn't
  leaking).
- Use propane around carb to check for leaks -- found none.
- Manually closed choke valve to ensure no leaks -- engine died.
- Rechecked float level -- looked fine but lowered it a little anyway
  (hey, I was desparate!)
- Ensure choke is completely out (not engaged).

FYI, my carb (Model 17084349) does not have the "hot idle compensator",
nor does it have the idle solinoid.

Thus, it appears that the air is entering the top of the carb but is
bypassing the throttle valve.  The mixture (according to the propane
enrichment) is at least close.

Is there possibly some path from inside the carb around the throttle
valve?

Any help would be GREATLY apprecited!

Thanks!

Russell Randolph
nCUBE, Beaverton, Oregon
russell@ncube.com
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: '57 TR3 no engine go jap?
Date: 14 Aug 92 13:03:37 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL


 As far as GM engines into Jags go, the idea is to get big power and improved
reliability. However the only one of these I've ever seen personally was by
the roadside with its hood up. It had a 454 Chevy in it with a ridiculously
small radiator and apparently was in a habit of overheating. In that case
neither power nor reliability were in evidence.
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
From: R1004@vmcms.csuohio.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: rear-end bearings
Date: 17 Aug 92 16:49:02 GMT
Organization: CSU


     I hope I don't insult anyone anyone by posting this - I'm not
sure if it's come up or not yet.
 
      GM uses 2 *different* styles of rear axels.  On one type
by removing 4  bolts inside the brake backing plate you can remove
the axel shaft.  The bearings are pressed onto the axel shaft.  Then
you can trot up to your favorite parts store and have them press
new bearings onto your shafts.  Thease are the *easy* ones to
replace.  I've seen more than on person pull 'em in the store
parking lot, have the new ones pressed on, then reinstall the shaft
and drive home - job done.
 
 
     The second type is a little more difficult.  You must remove the
cover from the differential and pull the "C" clips that hold the
axel shafts in.  On this type the bearings are pressed into the
axel tube and you need a special puller to yank them out and then
a tool to install the replacements.  This is not a hard job, either,
put a little more involved due to the necessary partial dissasembly
of the differential and the need for some not-so-common tools for the
bearing replacement.
 
    Hope this clears the air a little
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Martel               |
bob2@cua3.csuohio.edu    |  Lady luck must have been a wonderful girl
R1004@vmcms.csuohio.edu  |    -She's never been a friend of mine!
                         |                        Alan Parsons Project
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: tom_santos@taligent.com (Tom Santos)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Spark plug wire help
Date: 18 Aug 92 20:43:14 GMT
Organization: Taligent, Inc.
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1

Spark plug wire help

:-)  Thanks for asking...

It's a 1990 300ZX... with a wicked smell of fuel coming out of the
exhaust.

--Tom--
From: electro@matt.ksu.ksu.edu (Eric L Patterson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Octane ratings
Date: 17 Aug 1992 13:12:55 -0500
Organization: Kansas State University
NNTP-Posting-Host: matt.ksu.ksu.edu

How would I go about figuring the optimum octane rating for my vehicle?
Thanks

-- 
				 Eric L. Patterson
Mr. Postman,          /\         Electro@matt.ksu.ksu.edu
Send me a letter.    /\/\        230 Marlatt Hall
                     \/\/        Kansas State University
-- 
				 Eric L. Patterson
Mr. Postman,          /\         Electro@matt.ksu.ksu.edu
Send me a letter.    /\/\        230 Marlatt Hall
                     \/\/        Kansas State University
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rbanksjr@nyx.cs.du.edu (Richard E. Banks Jr.)
Subject: Solvent fuels in Go-Kart motors
Organization: Nyx, Public Access Unix @ U. of Denver Math/CS dept.
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 92 14:19:40 GMT


Can a pure solvent be run in a Go-Kart motor like naphtha or acetone?
Will this yield more horsepower than gasoline?

Or would a mix of solvent and gasoline be optimum?

Also, what chemicals are used in these octane booster and quick start
products on the market.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: pmwempe@cbnewse.cb.att.com (paul.michael.wempe)
Subject: Re: Aerostar info (tuneups, etc)
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 23:07:51 GMT

In article <1992Aug12.001115.2073@donner.SanDiego.NCR.COM>, root@joncpc.Your.Domain.Here (0000-Admin(0000)) writes:
> In article <1992Aug10.230405.8957@intelhf.hf.intel.com>, jmasters@pcocd2.intel.com (Justin Masters) writes:
> 
> |> What does it take?  Do I need to lower the engine?  Please let me know.
> |> 
> 
> I've got an '87 with about 115K miles and have done all my own work,
> except for warrranty/recall stuff.
> 
> Getting to the rear plugs is the most difficult, but can be done
> by removing the belts, radiator and heater hoses. I think the 
> alternator had to come out also. I was replacing hoses and belts
> at the time anyway(about 80K miles at the time), so had  to remove 
> all that. Whole thing took 6 hrs or so. 
> 
> I'm impressed with the engine. Oil pressure and general performance
> still great after 115K. We've had some electrical integrity problems,
> but I attribute those to the rough, winding road that gets driven 
> every day to work. Very comfortable cruiser.
> -- 
>           Jon M.(Mike) Corcoran <Mike.Corcoran@SanDiego.NCR.COM>   


I was able to replace my plugs from the wheel wells, took about
45 minutes, the right rear is the most difficult.
Used socket extensions and U joints. 
Friends of mine have managed this also.  Didn't have to remove
anything, except the rear engine cover.

Agree with the longevity. 
We have about 95K miles on ours.  Besides oil changes,
I've only had to replace the oil pressure sender, brakes,
shocks, and a rear U-joint.

Mike Wempe
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rajagopa@sdf.lonestar.org (Hari Rajagopal)
Subject: Home mechanics favourites..
Organization: sdf Public Access UNIX, Dallas--unrestricted free shell access
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 17:05:18 GMT

Undoubtedly one of the older chavys w/o any electronics to clutter the
innards . But my current favourite is the Volvo  , the engine compartment 
is almost deserted (80- 83) and really to work in.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: duane@alpha.aosg.gsf.dec.com (Andrew Duane AOSG)
Subject: Re: Mail order tires
Organization: AOSG
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 19:27:13 GMT

In article <1992Aug11.145732.2861@dg-rtp.dg.com>, brownr@hydra.rtp.dg.com (Tall Randy Brown) writes:
|> moseley@u.washington.edu (Steve L. Moseley) writes:
|> >
|> >Any opinions on Tire Rack or other mail order tire suppliers? I can't 
|> >tolerate the incompetence of the local Goodyear dealer, and I can get tires 
|> >mounted and balanced cheap at the auto hobby shop at a military base.
|> 
|> I ordered my last set of tire from Tire Rack, excellent service, selection,
|> and price.  I plan to order my next set soon from them, if they have the
|> best price.

Unfortunately, seeing everyone praise Tire Rack so much, I have to
put in my rebuttal. I am currently in the midst of negotiating a
dispute with them. I am not averse to mail-order places; I have dealt
with Euro Tire for years, always with excellent results.

My problem with Tire Rack is two-fold:
	1) the tires I ordered (P500 @ 185/60/14) arrived with
	   two out of four severely bubbled in the sidewalls.
	   Why didn't they catch this before they shipped?
	   They did replace them, but it meant 2 weeks of shipping
	   tires back and forth, and mounting and remounting.
	   Now, a few months later, all four are massively
	   bubbled and unusable. They are "investigating",
	   but it looks like I get only the ludicrously pro-rated
	   road-hazard/wear warranty on them, which means $$$$.
	2) the wheels I bought (Prime 82) were selected with the
	   help of the salesman. It turns out they are not hub-centric
	   with my axles (VW). Had I known this, I would never have
	   ordered them. Now the wheels are corroded so badly that
	   they seem unsafe to use. Once again, they are "investigating".
	   After an initial "well, I would never have put you in wheels
	   that aren't hub-centric, we'll set you up with something
	   else", they are now saying: tough! So, I have wheels that
	   will never properly fit the car they were specifically
	   selected for.

Overall, I think they sold me second-quality, defective merchandise
(the tires), and second-quality, incorrectly fitted merchandise (wheels).
This whole problem has cost me $$$, lots of time, haffa-dozen wheel
mounts and dismounts, and a huge pain in the neck. And it isn't over yet.

I will *never ever* buy from Tire Rack again.

--
Andrew L. Duane (JOT-7)  w:(603)-884-5873	duane@aosg.gsf.dec.com
Digital Equipment Corporation
ALPHA Open Systems Group
M/S GSF1-1/K13
5 Wentworth Drive
Hudson, NH   03051

Only my cat shares my opinions, and she doesn't drive the VW.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: schludermann@sscvx1.ssc.gov
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: book for toyota fi power mods
Date: 21 Aug 92 17:20:18 GMT
Article-I.D.: sscvx1.1992Aug21.112018.1
Organization: Superconducting Super Collider Laboratory


    There is a book out there on how to modify toyota fuel injection systems
for performance.  Can any one tell me the name?
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: Tom Santos <tom_santos@taligent.com>
Subject: Re: Spark plug wire help
Organization: Taligent, Inc.
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 21:38:25 GMT

Re: Spark plug wire help