HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: michael@maine.maine.edu (Michael Johnson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Neuspeed suspension upgrade
Date: 8 Oct 92 19:02:18 GMT
            <1992Oct7.162000.3597@newsgate.sps.mot.com>
Organization: University of Maine System
To:      NETNEWS@MAINE

In article <1992Oct7.162000.3597@newsgate.sps.mot.com> mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com
(Mark Shaw) writes:
>I had the same problem with the exhaust hitting a front sway bar.
>I wrapped it with a rubber hose and tie-wraps.
>The exhaust pipe just beat a hole in the hose.
>I evently changed the sway bar, as I didn't like the idea of
>stressing (bending) the exhaust system every time it bumped
>the bar.  Something to consider.  How about raising the
>system up by changing the hangers?

I'd have to lower the system, not raise it, and it's pretty low already.
Anyway, the problem isn't as severe as yours sounds. The bar doesn't hit the
exhaust all the time, it just rubs a little when taking left turns fast,
because of the body roll. Actually, it hasn't happened since I put on the
springs to back up the sway bar. I just plan to give myself a little extra
insurance.

Michael Johnson, VM Systems Group                     michael@maine.maine.edu
"I will choose the path that's clear. I will choose Free Will." -- Neil Peart
From: rl@socrates.ucsf.edu (Robert Langridge)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: New Golfs/Jettas
Date: 10 Oct 92 16:00:36 GMT
Organization: UCSF Computer Graphics Lab

glenn@misty.boeing.com (Glenn Cirlincione) writes:

>VW was here is Washington State the past two weeks filming commercials
>with all their new 93's including some models with the new V-6.     

But did that include a V-6 GTI?

:-)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: CMSC28@maccvm.corp.mot.com (Mark Hickey)
Subject: Need Inst.Cluster 83GTI
Organization: Motorola
Date: 9 Oct 1992 15:01:18 CDT

Looking for an instrument cluster for my '83 Rabbit GTI (the old
one died about 60Kmiles ago with 179Kmiles on it.... I'd just
go without an odometer, but it's started making a noise like a
truckload of ping pong balls rolling down a flight of stairs).

Email me a message if you have one gathering dust and we can
work out the details.....
Thanks.....
Mark

Car worth ~$1000, bicycles worth $8000. Ya gotta have priorities...
From: pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Bus body parts
Date: 8 Oct 92 16:36:37 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: University of Louisville

In article <1992Oct8.144410.449@eecs.nwu.edu>, clifton@eecs.nwu.edu (Chris Clifton) writes:
> I've finally decided to go after the rust on my '71 bus.  Main problem
> is the panel under the sliding door (including the tray on which the
> door slides), and the equivalent piece on the other side.
> 
> Does anyone know where these can be had (other than trying to cut them
> out of another bus?)
> 
> Thanks-
> -Chris (clifton@eecs.nwu.edu)

Check out a copy of Hot VWs.  Wolfsburg West has some parts.  Mill supply has
most body panels you will need.  Sorry I don't have the addresses now, maybe
somebody else out there does.  Anyone? Buehler? Anyone?

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
|pH Fred == pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu    |         "What we lack         |
|        == ..!psuvax1!ulkyvx.bitnet!pgheit01 |   in enthusiasm, we make up   |
|           University of Louisville          |         for in apathy."       |
|                Louisville, KY               |                               |
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
From: boubez@cesl.rutgers.edu (Toufic Boubez)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: CV joints on 88 Golf
Date: 7 Oct 92 14:01:01 GMT
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

Hi There. Well, it finally happened. I've started hearing that clicking
noise from the front as I accelerate or decelerate, which gets worse if I'm
turning. From all I've read here, and from the Bentley manual, it looks
like the outer CV joints are gone. Before I attempt to fix the problem, I
have a couple of questions. I'd appreciate any tips, advice, etc. 

1. How complicated an operation is this? Should I schedule a whole day, a
few hours, a few weeks ;-)?
2. While I'm at it, I figure I should replace both sides (should I?).
Should I replace the inner joints too?
3. I'll probably take the inner joints out and examine them. Is that a
lengthy operation?
4. Any special tools that I would need? It looks like only a vise grip
(got it), a soft mallet (got it) and the 12-sided sockets (will get) are
needed (and lots of grease). Anything else?
5. Finally, the car is drivable so far, but until I get around to doing it,
is it a good idea to keep driving?

Thanks. As I said, I'd appreciate any comments, advice, tips, etc.

Take care.

toufic
            R 2 4      Toufic Boubez
            |_|_|      boubez@cesl.rutgers.edu
            | | |      Computational Engineering Systems Lab
            1 3 5      CAIP Center, Rutgers University, NJ
From: v107qptd@ubvmsd.cc.buffalo.edu (Eiji Iki)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Has anyone used Lubro Moly stuff?
Date: 15 Oct 92 16:30:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41


   I just read about Lubro products(Ventil Sauber and Injector cleaner)
in,Europeancar mag.  these are the stuffs you put in your gas tank.
  They used them in their project car (924) to cure its
vibration problem and they said the vibration was gone within a couple of 
blocks or so.  
  Has anyone tried Lubro stuffs?  How well did they work?  How much are they?

ej
From: jayj@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (Jay Johannes)
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 17:46:04 GMT
Subject: Re: Removing Instrument Cluster, '84 Rabbit
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw

In rec.autos.vw, atosswil@sumax.seattleu.edu (Andy Tosswill) writes:

>	Specifically, the cluster seems too large in the vertical dimension to
>come out of the dash easily, and the assorted wires and cables attached to the
>back don't make matters any easier.

>	Does anyone out there have any experience or helpful hints on removing
>the instrument cluster?

Experience, yes. Helpful hints, not really.

You are on the right track. In my experience, you push down and get
the top ears out and then pull out and up to get the lower ears freed.
You need to pull the speedo cable off before you can remove the
cluster. Reach behind. You need to pull the collar to the side and
then the cable will pull back. This should allow you to pull the
cluster out far enough to remove the wiring harness. Fortunately,
there is only one harness connector.

  Hang n there, it will work.

  Jay
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: cl128219@ulkyvx.louisville.edu
Subject: Re: For GTI (8V) owners
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 20:38:15 GMT
Organization: University of Louisville

> 	o What is your gas mileage? I get about 28 mpg (~ 8.2l/100km)

  About 30mpg on the highway and 25 around town.  Of course I don't dog it 
ALL the time ;)

> 	o What gas do you use? The manual says 87 octane is fine, but
> mine is knocking, and I try to use 90. It seems that even 89 isn't good
> enough.

  I put only 92 octane in mine (the highest I can get around here) and I have
had no problems with any pre-ignition knock.

-- 
________________________________________________________________________________
| Only //                  \/     \ \ \    |         >=- Nik Shaw -=<          |
|     //     INTERABANG!? \/\/     o o     |  cl128219@ulkyvx.louisville.edu   |
| \\ //                   MAN!      U      |-----------------------------------|
|  \X/ AMIGA, makes it possible!  \___/    |     " No Sir, Didnt Like It! "    |
`------------------------------------------"-----------------------------------'
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: christos@wucs1.wustl.edu (Christos Papadopoulos)
Subject: Re: Engine stalls in morning
Organization: Washington University, St. Louis MO
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 22:56:56 GMT

In article <13220@mike> mike@Software.Mitel.COM (Michael Cocks) writes:
>
>Hi
>
>I have the exact problem with an 88 Scirroco (8v). I thought it may
>be the oxygen sensor. What I was planning on doing was trying a
>new fuel additive that I have seen in the stores that apparently 
>cleans the Oxygen sensor and the Catalytic convertor.
>
>Any comments or opinions would be welcome.
>
>regards
>
>Mike

	I don't think it's the sensor because the electronics will ignore it
when the car is cold. Try the auxiliary air regulator valve.

Christos.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: CMSC28@maccvm.corp.mot.com (Mark Hickey)
Subject: Re: Removing Instrument Cluster, '84 Rabbit
Organization: Motorola
Date: 9 Oct 1992 14:49:13 CDT

------------------------- Original Article -------------------------
In article <5299@sumax.seattleu.edu> atosswil@sumax.seattleu.edu (Andy Tosswill)
writes:
>>Folks,
>>  Well, my odometer has finally stopped working altogether and I need t
>>fix/replace it. I read the Bentley manual on removing the instrument custer
>>and it seems straightforward. However, upon actually trying it, I ran nto some
>>problems.
>>
>>  Specifically, the cluster seems too large in the vertical dimension t
>>come out of the dash easily, and the assorted wires and cables attache to the
>>back don't make matters any easier.
>>
>>  Does anyone out there have any experience or helpful hints on removin
>>the instrument cluster?
>>
>>-- Andy
>>

>You have to remove the speedo cable first.  Access it from underneath te
>dash after removing the trim panel.  It's not real easy but it's possibe.
>The wiring harness is very easy to remove once the cluster is mostly ou.

>   - Dan

You'll find you'll probably have to put enough torque on the instrument
clulster to worry about trashing it before the dash gives it up, though.
There's only about one angle the thing will come out at, and - sorry -
I don't remember what it is.... although my speedo just died with about
250K miles on the clock.  Guess I'll remember soon, huh?
Mark Hickey
From: brumelle@unixg.ubc.ca (Shelby Brumelle)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Vanagon master clutch cylinder
Date: 15 Oct 92 15:35:10 GMT
Organization: The University of British Columbia
NNTP-Posting-Host: unixg.ubc.ca
Keywords: Vanagon, clutch cylinder

I need to replace the master clutch cylinder in an
'84 Vanagon.  Can anyone explain how to access the
linkage connecting the cylinder to the clutch pedal.
It is behind a piece of sheet metal.  Must one do it
by feel?  Is it possible to reach down from the top
after removing the instrument panel?  Has anyone done
this job? 
 
Thanks for any information. 
Shelby    brumelle@unixg.ubc.ca
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: aeporro@ariel.lerc.nasa.gov (Bob Porro)
Subject: Re: more golf III tidbits
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
Date: 16 Oct 1992 08:15 EST  

In article <Oct15.195650.13850@engr.washington.edu>, eliot@engr.washington.edu (eliot) writes...
> 
>several more tidbits about the new golf gl that i saw:
> 
> 
>- unfortunately, the alternator is a british made Lucas with a "Bosch"
>  sticker stuck on it.  this generated the biggest laughs at the dealer
>  among the mechanics and service adviser types.  Imagine, a VW with a
>  Lucas alternator!!
> 

This brings to mind a joke that a VW, Porsche, and Audi mechanic told me 
once:

Q.  Who is Lucas?

A.  The Prince of Darkness.   

Those of you who have dealt with Lucas electronics before should appreciate 
this :-).

******************************************************************************
| Bob Porro                    || (The opinions expressed here are not       |
| aeporro@venus.lerc.nasa.gov  ||  necessarily those of the management ?\*!) |
|                              ||                                            |
******************************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: kokerj@jec317.its.rpi.edu (James Matthew Kokernak)
Subject: Re: Audi questions
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 03:51:15 GMT

In article <1992Oct7.205251.9940@bcrka451.bnr.ca> tref@bcrka450.bnr.ca (Francois Tremblay) writes:
>In article <18691.2ad2cc73@ecs.umass.edu>, sylveste@ecs.umass.edu writes:

>>   I have to admit that I don't know much about Volvo (Audi is my speciality)
>> but Volvo did use an Audi 5 cylinder in one of their models in the early
>> eighties.  I believe that it was the 240.  I have seen one.
>> 
>>                                          Mike Sylvester  Umass
>>                                          sylveste@ecs.umass.edu
>
>
>FACT : there is no such thing as a Volvo 240 with a 5 cyl. gas engine. 
>(who cares about diesel? )

Who cares about Volvo for that matter? They're even uglier than Saabs!

>
>==========
>
>Francois Tremblay                 B.N.R. Ltd
>tref@bnr.ca                       Ottawa, Canada
>(613)-763-3272
>==========
>My thoughts, My words -- Let BNR make its own mistakes.

--Jim
From: schrader@pi.eai.iastate.edu (Dave Schrader)
Subject: octane
Keywords: What exactly is it ?
Organization: Engineering Animation, Inc.
Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1992 05:05:20 GMT

This may sound silly but just what was 92 or 87 octane really mean ?  I often see an equation
on the bottom of the octane sticker that says something like R+M/something  method.  Does anyone
know what octane numbers really relate to ( besides cost and resistance to pre-ignition ) ? Surly
they must reduce to some physical property like watts or volts or something like that.


Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rorem@bert.eecs.uic.edu (Doug Rorem)
Subject: any info on studs for Rabbit diesel heads?
Keywords: stud
Organization: University of Illinois at Chicago
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 22:55:44 GMT

Hi all,

 I remember seeing an article or ad in an older VW & Porsche mag
about using studs rather than the stock hex (Allen) head bolts
on VW Rabbit diesel heads.  I think my head gasket is leaking
slightly (engine is quite difficult to start) and I'm wondering
if anyone has tried them or knows of a source.  I'd just like
to do the gasket replacement job once and hopefully not
have to bother with it again. My rabbit is older ('79) as
you probably guessed from the hex head bolts used.

Doug Rorem
rorem@bert.eecs.uic.edu
From: blu@cellar.org (Dan Reed)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Running on 3 cyls?
Date: 15 Oct 92 18:07:29 GMT
Organization: The Cellar BBS and public access system

mgb5528@cc.utah.edu (Beck, Michael Gregory) writes:

> 
>  What are the symptoms of running on 3 cylinders on a 67 Bug?
> 
> Thanks before-hand
> Michael Beck
> mgb5528@cc.utah.edu
> University of Utah


Uhh lets see...

Loss of power..
Less loud (unless, connecting rod is snapped, had this happedn once, but the 
engine *still ran*, drove home, with rod-poked through case!)


----- 
 Dan Reed (Blu-Max) blu@cellar.org - AutoCad Geek - VW Lover - InlineSkater 
68 Cougar XR-7, 89 VW Golf, 72 Honda CL360Twin, Ti/99/4a, Vextrex, Timex
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: taw57465@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Nitzer )
Subject: Just bought a Scirocco....
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 19:28:08 GMT

     Here's another story which proves the reliability
     of VW engines:   I just bought an '87 Scirocco 
     with 202,000 miles!!  Wasn't expecting the engine
     to be in that great of shape.  A compression test was performed
     and showed that everything was sealing nicely inside.  The car
     burns no oil and has plenty of power.  The guy that had I bought
     it from did regular oil changes (every 3k) and regular
     maintenance.  I was planning on dropping in a new engine...
     but I guess I'll just keep driving it the way it is!

			    ---Amazed--
From: ryo@oakhill.sps.mot.com (Ryo Inoue)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Advice on 1992 Golf GTI 16V ?
Date: 11 Oct 92 19:38:25 GMT
Article-I.D.: oakhill.1992Oct11.193825.28046
Reply-To: ryo@oakhill.sps.mot.com
Organization: Motorola Inc., Austin, Texas

I would welcome any advice on the purchase of a 1992 GTI 16V.
I test drove it and I like it, but would like to know more about it.
Any reliability problems ?  What would be a fair price so late
in the model year ?  I would buy it brand new from a dealer (in Texas).

Thanks in advance,

Ryo Inoue
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: tau@athena.mit.edu (Frank D Chamberland)
Subject: RE:Engine stalls
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Distribution: rec.autos.vw
Date: Sat, 17 Oct 1992 01:29:11 GMT


>I have a similar problem on my 1988 VW Fox GL wagon.
>It doesn't stall usually, but I experience some...
I have also experienced similar problems.

>Anyway, I've checked the cold start valve and thermo time switch and the
>cold start wiring.  No problems found there.  I've resigned myself
>into the fact it may be a computer problem....
Wait!

>... Any suggestions, I would appreciate
>the advice.
Check your fuel injectors.  Pitted or dirty injectors can cause these
types of cold start/run problems.  

My fuel injectors became severely pitted due to alcohol based
detergents in the fuel I used.  My problems were even more severe,
however; My 16V would not even RUN at temperatures below 10F. I
cleaned the injectors twice and the problem went away for a few days.
In the end I paid $320 for new injectors (and started using a differnt
brand of gas) because I didn't realize that I could get the injectors
by mail order.

SO before you spend 100's on a new a computer pull your injectors and
check them.  


-- Dave Chamberland
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: fod@elroy.jpl.nasa.gov (Frank O'Donnell)
Subject: Octane and smog emissions
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 02:32:08 GMT

I found the recent discussion of gas octane here interesting,
but had a slightly different wrinkle to throw on it:

Coming up within the next month I have to face that wonderful
every-other-year chore, getting a Calif smog certificate for my
'74 Ghia.  I used to take this for granted in the first decade
or so I owned the car (I bought it new in '74), but in the late
'80s it got a little dicier passing the test, and once it failed
altogether (it has a newish Dutch engine, but the carb was 
getting real gnarly).

It now has a new carb, and I figured that a few days before
the test I'd go through a pretty thorough maintenance/tuneup
thing (replace plugs, points and condensor, set the timing
to factory specs, etc).

The thought has occurred to me, though:  can gasoline grade
affect the outcome of something like a smog check?  Is premium
(i.e. 92 octane) the cleanest thing to be running through it?
This is a stock 1600 engine with good ol vacuum advance and
whatnot; '74s didn't have catalytic converters, though they
do have charcoal filters, preheater hoses and other smog-
related doodads thrown on em.  Thanks for any comment!

Frank
frank@jplpost.jpl.nasa.gov
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: ari@leland.Stanford.EDU (Ari Ollikainen)
Subject: Re: Audi questions
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 19:11:42 GMT

In article <1623@adpplz.UUCP> hcs@adpgate.UUCP (Howard Schultz) writes:
>
>for 3 years, volvo put the audi 5 cyl. diesel (which audi bought the plans
>from mercedes) until they made their own diesel.  my mechanic worked on
>several of them, most volvo owners wanted an audi mech. to look at an audi
>engine. I owned 3 audi diesel's, one a turbo, and almost bought a volvo
>because of the audi engine in it.
>
>pop the hood's and compare side by side and you can replace them part for
>part. there is even a VW stamp on the side of the engine.


This is certainly interesting information...BUT Volvo USA introduced the 
Volvo Diesel models with the 6 cylinder VW diesel engine during the 
1980 model year (and sold Diesel Volvos during the 1981 model year as 
1980 model due to some problem with EPA certification for MY 1981). 
Which three years would you assert was Volvo selling 5 cylinder diesel
vehicles in the USA? 

The turbo-charged diesel engine of the 760/740 series cars beginning in 
1984 was the *same* VW 6cylinder engine!

Can you provide *any* references in any publication available in a public
library that would support your assertions? Remember, we're talking 
about US spec Volvo Diesels, here.

Ari Ollikainen 
(I suppose *my* 1982 VolvoDiesel powered by VW's 6cylinder engine was 
 an abberration? NOT!)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: smeg@bnr.ca (Maarten Koning)
Subject: rec.autos.vw archive site?
Reply-To: smeg@bnr.ca
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Ontario, Canada
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 21:00:39 GMT

Could someone please point me to a rec.autos.vw archive
site as I would like to read the traffic since December 1991
(which I missed).

Any help would be appreciated...Maarten (smeg@bnr.ca)

-- 
//include1 pgm=disclaimer,parm='my opinions only'
Maarten Koning | Internet:  smeg@bnr.ca        | Phone: (613) 763-8796
BNR Ltd.       |    This space for rent        | FAX:   (613) 763-2626
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mgm@royko.Chicago.COM (Marty Masters)
Subject: 1800cc Head ?'s
Organization: Chicago Software Works
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 04:18:58 GMT


My very reliable Fox is needing some attention and I'm preparing to 
work on it.  It is an 1800.  Are all stock 1800 heads the same?  Do
all have hydraulic valves?  Can I use a 2000 cc head to gain any
horses?  Will it bolt up?  Do I have any other options?  Advice?

My parts man says he can scare up a NEW 1800 head complete and ready
to bolt up and plug in the FI for $325... Sound like a good deal?

... Marty					mgm@royko.chicago.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: balsamo@wmodev.enet.dec.com (Antonio L. Balsamo (Save the wails))
Subject: Re: Gislaved Tires
Reply-To: balsamo@wmodev.enet.dec.com (Antonio L. Balsamo (Save the wails))
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 17:02:50 GMT


   George,

   >Where did you get them?  Were they expensive?

       I had Gislavid's on my '83 Accord and well as my '87 Jetta GL; maybe
   it's me, but I didn't have very good luck with them.  They didn't seem to
   seal very well around the rim (ie, they kept loosing air).  I also had a
   side-wall blow-out when one of the cords fractured.

       As far as expense, I found them competitive with Donlops (the OEM tire
   on the Accord).  I live in Massachusetts and got mine from Ashland Motor of
   Ashland, Mass.

   Good luck!
   Tony Balsamo
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Light knocking under part throttle
Date: 15 Oct 92 01:56:18 GMT
Article-I.D.: umassd.Bw541v.3sF
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.

Recently I have noticed in my 86 GTI with 188K miles that when I
am driving in any gear with the engine turning between 2,000 and
3,000 rpm there is a slight knocking noise at cruise with the
throttle barely cracked open (as opposed to full open). I'm not
really sure what the noise is. It sounds like a soft knock or
pinging noise.

I have replaced a couple of the lifters a while back because there
was some noise with them on a cold start, so I'm not sure that
it is a lifter problem. 

Another thing I have noticed since this noise has occured is that
when I accellerate, my oil pressure gauge drops about 5psi (it
usually runs between 37 and 43 psi when warm at 3,000 rpm), and
then when I back off the throttle slightly the oil pressure returns
to normal.

Where this is a high mileage car, is this normal? or am I about
to run into some $$$$ repair bills?

Ric Golen
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: lagrangj@unvax.union.edu (Joshua C. LaGrange)
Subject: Josh LaGrange
Summary: purple '73 Camper for sale.
Organization: Union College, Schenectady, NY
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 00:50:48 GMT

Hi, I was using some one else's account when I first posted my add, so I just thought I'd repost.  My 1973 purple pop-top Camper is for sale.  6000 miles on the rebuilt engine.  New alternator, new exhaust, Weber carb, runs very strong.  Mostly was in Georgia.  Good shape all-around.  I'd like $2700 but I'll dicker.  I'd also be interested in trading for a Beetle or Ghia.  Thanks- Josh