HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: seaney@robios.me.wisc.edu (Steve Seaney)
Subject: Speed/Torque Curve Needed for Ford 4.6L
Organization: U. Wisconsin-Madison, Robotics Laboratory
Distribution: rec
Date: 15 Aug 92 10:01:27


I need to get the torque and power curves for a ford 4.6L engine.  Is
there a reference book of customer service bulletin that contains
these items.  I've tried calling a number of Ford dealerships.

Thanks!@
Steve
--
  seaney@cae.wisc.edu        *  University of Wisconsin - Madison             
******************************  Systems Administrator
  608 / 262-5328             *  353 Mechanical Engineering                    
  608 / 262-7463             *  1513 University Avenue                        
  608 / 256-4730             *  Madison, Wisconsin  53706
From: rhealy@arrl.org (Rus Healy, NJ2L)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Radar detectors into fuse box
Date: 18 Aug 92 15:38:57 est
Organization: American Radio Relay League

In rec.autos.tech, jimf@centerline.com (Jim Frost) writes:
>dibb@dg.UUCP (James Dibb) writes:

>>hard-wiring [radar detectors] incorrectly will damage them.
>
>>Specifically the Uniden RD9XL uses a 9V supply obtained via
>>a small
>>transformer in the cigarette lighter plug, therefore cutting
>>the
>>plug off and splicing it into a 12V supply will probably
>>damage the unit.
>[stuff deleted]
>
>You could also disassemble the plug, extract the transformer, and
>replace it somewhere along the power line.  You'd probably want to box
>the transformer and add a fuse.
>
>Are you sure it uses a transformer?  I think I would have used a
>voltage regulator.  You can pick up new 9V regulators that can handle
>12V inputs at Radio Shack for a couple of bucks.

Radar detectors and other devices that drop an automotive supply
(usually more than 13.8 V when the vehicle is running, and between
12.5 and 13 when it's off) *do not use transformers.* Transformers
are ac-operated devices and have very low dc resistance. If you
connect a transformer to a dc supply, you'll toast it in the blink
of an eye.

Virtually all lower-voltage (ie, 9-V) devices use linear voltage 
regulators to derive the required supply voltage. In such devices,
a considerable amount of power is wasted as heat. Take this into
consideration if you decide to repackage a voltage regulator to 
free up your cigarette lighter. Adding a fuse, as Jim Frost
suggests, is an excellent idea.

If you question the correct operating voltage for your radar
detector or other accessory, check the panel near the power
connector. It usually includes the required supply voltage and
a polarity legend for the power connector. There's no standard
when it comes to which side of the connector is positive and which
is negative, so make sure you know which is which before you power
the thing up!

--Rus

Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:11081 rec.autos:19916
From: tcheung@gandalf.rutgers.edu (Tak Cheung)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
Subject: FRONT END ALIGNMENT FOR EARLY ACURA INTEGRAS
Keywords: Acura Integra front end, lack of on-center feel
Date: 13 Aug 92 15:52:01 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Distribution: rec.autos.tech, rec.autos
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

I have had a '87 Integra since new, two things I don't like about the
car is the lack of on-center feeling of the car, i.e. too much boost
for the power steering and the air-conditioner doesn't work too well.

I would like to know whether these two problems are common to early
Integras.  I can live with a lousy air-conditioner, but I would like
to know if there are fixes, after market or otherwise, for the steering
problem.

I was told that the front caster on my Integra is off and there is no
way to correct that.  Is this true or is there some adjustment to
the front struts when the time comes to replace them.

I have 65K on the car and on the original struts, should they be
replaced soon, the ride is decidedly on the rough but not too bumpy.

Any good aftermarket replacement like from Jackson Racing ??

Your comments and suggestions are appreciated, either email me or
just post.

Thanks.

Tak Cheung
From: mcostell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Malcolm G. Costello)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: disc brake shields
Date: 18 Aug 92 21:22:41 GMT
Reply-To: mcostell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Malcolm G. Costello)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD


I hope this doesn't come under the same flammable category as fuzzy dice,
but does anyone have any experience with those shields you put between
the brake disc and the wheel to keep the brake dust off the wheel?
Do they materially affect brake cooling? tire balance?
Thanx.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mack Costello <mcostell@oasys.dt.navy.mil> Code 1720.1       ?
David Taylor Model Basin, Carderock Division Hq. NSWC    ___/-\____
Bethesda, MD 20084-5000   Phone (301) 227-2431          (__________>|

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,sci.physics
From: welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty)
Subject: Re: Need Formula For Tire Friction
Organization: New York State Institute for Sebastian Cabot Studies
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1992 20:04:03 GMT

In article <h85mx6k.westes@netcom.com> westes@netcom.com (Will Estes) writes:
>I recently had a bad experience with a small "toy" spare tire
>on my Honda Prelude.  After driving on it at 50 mph for only
>10 miles it heated up almost to the point where it was
>smoking.

but what brand was it smoking?

>  This made me wonder if there would be some
>easy way to predict how hot a tire would get based on 
>known variables.

i don't think that it will prove to be terribly easy.

>What I would like is some formula that takes as its input
>the load on the tire, the diameter of the tire, and the
>width of the tread, and gives as its output some sort of
>"friction number" that could be used to determine whether
>the tire will get too hot or not.  Does anyone know of
>such a formula?  Are there other major input variables
>I'm missing here?

yes, lots.

you need to know the characteristics of the tire compound,
the weight/load on the tire from the car (and its operation),
the inflation of the tires, and so forth.

i think that it will prove to be too complicated a computation
to be worth trying to do, unless you happen to work for a tire
company and have the necessary resources.

trust the speed rating, and keep your tires properly inflated.
-- 
richard welty                            518-393-7228
welty@cabot.balltown.cma.com
  ``if you can read this, mario, you're too close''
    -- bumper sticker seen on a CART safety truck
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mrein3@CFSMO.Honeywell.COM (Matt Rein #3)
Subject: How is the pittman arm/ steering bas connec
To: rec.autos.tech
Posted-Date: Thu, 20 Aug 92 11: 55:29 cdt
Organization: Honeywell Systems & Research Center
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 16:55:29 GMT
Received-Date: Thu, 20 Aug 92 11: 55:39 CDT

> 
> I want to change the (power) steering gear box on my car.. '79chevy malibu.
> I can't find  anything on it in my Chilton's manual.  So, if you have ever
> done this or taken  apart this part  of the front end, I would appreciate
> any information.   I guess I'd like to know how much is involved
> before I dive in :-).  My feeling is that the couplings should all
> 

Being the owner of many older GMs, I replaced my share of steering gears.
If the pittman arm is identical on the one you got (assuming you got it
at the bone yard... ~> $250 from GM) leave it on the new one and take
the old one off the car with the arm attached.  If the arms are
different or you didn't get one with the new gear, you'll have to get
a puller.

> 
> be splines, and so am I wrong in guessing that all that will have to be
> done is to pop off the hoses, then the old gear box and put in the new one
> (ie is it as straightforward as taking  off a rear drive shaft?) or will it
> be lots of fasteners in impossible places with exact spec 
> nuts  & bolts to be attached?
>

There are three bolts on the frame (with access holes to reach them), and
two lines on top of the gear.  Usually you leaked enough PS fluid on the
three mounting bolts to make them come out without needing an impact gun.
I think the bolt to disconnect the steering column is a 12-pt. 7/16" head
you'll have to check on that before you start so there are no suprises when
you get that far.

BTW, how much did the new gear cost?  Around here the cheapest I can ever
find is $50 and you gotta look hard for that.  The gear on my '71 Monte
pees out the fluid as fast as I can dump it in.


Matt Rein                              _                
mrein3@CFSMO.Honeywell.COM            / )/              / /
Honeywell CFS/MO                     /  /_  _       _  / / _
Coon Rapids, MN                     (__/ /_(/_|\_|_(/_/_/_(/__ BY CHEVEROLET

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy)
Subject: need Redline 800 number
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio, (USA)
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 92 18:02:13 GMT


Could someone email me Redline's 800 number?  Couldn't find it on
the FAQ.

Thanks.
Bill
-- 
William Claspy			Case Western Reserve University
Internet- wpc@po.cwru.edu
MaBellnet- (216) 368-3595
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ernie@ncrcol.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM (Ernie Corley)
Subject: Re: need Redline 800 number
Organization: NCR E&M Columbia SC.
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 92 12:36:38 GMT

In article <1992Aug14.180213.27092@usenet.ins.cwru.edu> wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy) writes:
>
>Could someone email me Redline's 800 number?  Couldn't find it on
>the FAQ.
>
>Thanks.
>Bill
>-- 
>William Claspy			Case Western Reserve University
>Internet- wpc@po.cwru.edu
>MaBellnet- (216) 368-3595

For future reference, 800 directory service is
   
       1-800-555-1212


-- 
        --Ernie.Corley@ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM
From: greenfie@vtserf.cc.vt.edu (Steve Greenfield)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Sheet Metal Questions
Date: 17 Aug 92 16:56:56 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Virginia Tech, Blacksburg, VA

I have a few questions about sheet metal work:                                  
                                                                                
1)  I have some floorpans to replace in a 1966 Mustang and was wondering        
    what are the best tools to cut out the rusted sections?                     
                                                                                
2)  The Eastwood Company has a couple of attachments for an arc welder.         
    a)  Spot Weld Gun for $49.95.  I assume this will attach to most arc        
        welders.  Has anyone used this gun and is it worth the money?           
    b)  Stitch Welder for $59.95.  This is supposed to make Arc welding         
        sheet metal easy by use of a diode which reduces output by half.        
        Has anyone used this stitch welder and is it worth the money?           
                                                                                
3)  I would prefer a MIG Welder but I can't find one for less than $358!        
    What are the advantages of MIG welding over Arc welding?  Would it          
    be better for me to get a cheaper Arc welder and the Spot Weld Gun          
    plus the Stitch Welder from Eastwood OR go with a more expensive            
    MIG welder?                                                                 
                                                                                
4)  Does anyone know where I can get plans for practice projects so that        
    I can practice my welding technique before I work on the floorpans?         
                                                                                
Thanks in advance for any and all advice!                                       
                                                                                
                                                                                
Stephen L. Greenfield                     Bitnet:   FEATS@VTVM1                 
Virginia Polytechnic Institute   ,/\      Internet: feats@vtvm1.cc.vt.edu       
Blacksburg, Virginia           ,/   `\/`'\                                      
                           ,/\/          /                                      
                         ,/             <_          ._.                         
                        /                 `\       / /                          
             ,/\_     _/'                   `-`-\  |/                           
          ,/'    `_'_'  *  Blacksburg          \_> '                            
       ,/'                                    \__>_/\                           
      +----------------------------------------------+                          
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: colombo@bronco.fnal.gov
Subject: Re: Premium gas to clean engine?
Organization: Fermilab Computing Division
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 22:11:59 GMT

In article <BsxEoG.n03.2@cs.cmu.edu>, michal+@cs.cmu.edu (Michal Prussak) writes:
> 
> I am perfectly aware of the fact that using premium gas in an ordinary
> engin won't improve performance, but my repair manual ("How to Keep
> Your Honda Alive...", an excellent book BTW), says that it's a good
> idea to occasionally fill up with premium. They say this will clean 
> up the engine (from carbon deposits?). So, what does the net think about
> it? 
> 
> Michal


If they mean *detergents*, then no, premium and regular gas have the
same amount of detergents (assuming that your brand has any at all :-).

 ___________________________________________________________________________
 *****  *   *  From the e-net desk of: Rick Colombo CD/DCD/DSG    *    *
 *      **  *  Fermi Nat'l Acc'l Lab   708-840-8225 Fermilab     * *   *
 ***    * * *  P.O. Box 500   MS 369   Feynman Computer Center  *****  *
 *      *  **  Batavia, Ill. USA 60510 Colombo@fnal.fnal.gov    *   *  *****
 *  Sure to get `Flamed' if I didn't cross all my i's and dot all my t's ;-)
From: jrp@bohra.cpg.oz.au (John Pitman)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: subaru white smoke
Date: 20 Aug 92 05:55:46 GMT
Organization: Computer Power Software

Dont forget that white smoke, if water, will condense and disperse fairly 
quickly, but if it persists, it could well be brake fluid from a leaking
power brake being sucked into the inlet and burnt! I have seen this, and boy,
is the the white THICK and strong - the driver got pulled over by the police
and put off the road!
jp
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks)
Subject: Re: SURVEY: Home mechanic's favorites
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 21:22:00 GMT

In article <16eep0INN66i@smli.Eng.Sun.COM> lockwood@acidqueen.Eng.Sun.COM (Jim Lockwood) writes:
>>>>>I'm starting a new survey.
>>>>>in the sense of:
>>>>>
>>>>>   b). Easy repair...
>>>>>
>A '57 Chevy with a small block V8.  There is so much room in the
>engine compartment, you just climb in over the fender, get in there 
>with the engine, and go to work....except that you hardly ever need to.
>
Even easier is the same car with an inline 6. I've owned a '55 Chevy w/ a
V8 and currently own one with a 6. Piece of cake. You've got all that room
because if something isn't needed to make the car run, it isn't there! Add
that to the fact that family cars of the '50s and '60s were actually big
enough to put a family in, and you've got a car that's both a pleasure to 
work on and to drive.    
 
Ted Brooks
 ______________________________________________________________________
| Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are my own, and do not reflect    |
| those of my employer. Advice is free, but you get what you pay for.  |
|                               ________                               |
|                         _____|  1955  |_______                       |
|                        /      Chevrolet      /                       |
|                       /______  BelAir  _____/                        |
|                              |________|                              |
|______________________________________________________________________|

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: Tom Santos <tom_santos@taligent.com>
Subject: Re: Need tire info. for 300ZX
Organization: Taligent, Inc.
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 16:28:23 GMT

Re: Need tire info. for 300ZX

The new 300ZX's now come with Goodyear Gatorbacks on them.

I had Dunlop D40M2's on my '90 300ZX before and they were excellent tires.
I just put Gatorbacks on my car to see what they are like.  It hasn't
rained here
for a while so I can't tell you yet about their wet performance but their
dry
performance is great.  The Goodyear GS-C's are supposed to be better than
Gatorbacks so I suspect they are excellent tires.

--Tom--
From: ness@tc.fluke.COM (Jerry Ness)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: MPG on 4WD's
Date: 20 Aug 92 18:34:20 GMT
Organization: John Fluke Mfg. Co., Inc., Everett, WA

1984 Ford F-250, 6.9L Diesel V8, 4 speed manual,  3.51:1 axels,
14.5 mpg off-road, 21 mpg to work (mostly freeway) best mpg 24.6.
Jerry
-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jerry Ness             John Fluke Mfg. Co., Inc.        Everett, Washington USA
            domain:    ness@tc.fluke.COM   
            uucp:      {sun,microsoft,uw-beaver}!fluke!ness
From: v058l789@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (Ethan A Bowerman)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Pressurize Oil Before Starting ?
Date: 23 Aug 92 15:20:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <15200039@hpspdla.spd.HP.COM>, paulw@hpspdla.spd.HP.COM (Paul Welch) writes...
>I have seen (many moons ago) information on a company that provides
>"before you start it" oil pumps.  Basically, you add an aux. oil
>pump that runs off the battery, and you pressurize your lubrication
>system before turning the key to start the engine.  I have also 
>read that on a typical 500 mile trip, 98% of the engine wear occurs
>in the first ten seconds.  I did inquire about the aux. oil pumps
>quite a while back, and found that the company had moved from 
>Campbell, Ca., down to somewhere in So. California. Also, they wanted
>about $400 to install one of their special aux. pumps.
> 
>1) Has anyone seen/heard of something similar?
>2) What type of pump/motor combination should I look for if I
>   attempt to try this myself?  What flow rate, what pressure for 
>   the pump, what rpm and h.p. for the motor?
> 
>A couple of cool things I remember from the literature:  You could 
>set up the wiring so that the pump comes on with the dome light, 
>so that as you get into the car, the oil system is already starting 
>to pressurize, therefore you hardly even have to think about it.
>And, you can also include a timer in the circuit to run the pump for 
>5 minutes or so after shutting off the engine, to help cool the oil
>better than if it just sat where it was.            
> 
>I know there are lots of you techy-type folks out there who could help.
>I think this could be a really slick addition to a car that might
>actually extend the natural life of the motor significantly!
> 
> 
>Thanks in advance!
> 
>PW
>(too many vehicles to list)

	You're right- it would be a slick addition.  After giving it minimal
thought, I came up with only one idea as to why car manufacters aren't doing 
this now- they WANT your car to wear out after an acceptable life time.  
	You are very right that it would extend the motor's life.  


						Ethan
From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: '57 TR3 no engine go jap?
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 15:18:11 -0500

 JD> >: I have a '57 TR3 with no engine.
 JD> >: I i thinking about putting a Toyota or Nissan drive
 JD> >: train in it...
 JD> >: Has anyone out there done this?
 JD> >: I have heard nothing but bad things about the
 JD> >: original english tractor motor.
 JD> >: I love the lines of the car, but I'd like it to be reliable.
 JD> 
 JD> Ya, I bet everyone who has sat on the side of the road while the Lucas,
 JD> Prince of Darkness, lights forgot to suck darkness and the ignition 
 JD> forgot
 JD> what it was supposed to do because the piece of garbage bag wiretie
 JD> some "Fine British Craftsman" used to make the connection rusted in 
 JD> two,
 JD> would have other terms for this "masterpiece" than Mona Lisa.  Anyone 
 JD> who
 JD> has viewed a Triumph crankshaft, a device that markedly resembles a 
 JD> large gutter nail forged with loving care using a 10 pound sledge 
 JD> hammer,
 JD> would concur.

How do you account for the many racing successes of the Triumph engine, in
Morgans and possibly other makes as well as TRs?



From: vlj@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Victor Johnson)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 16:44:02 GMT
Subject: Re: Ford Explorer Problem
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

In rec.autos.tech, djw@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (d.j.wasser) writes:

> My '91 Ford Explorer cannot be put into
> 4 wheel drive when it's at operating temperature,
> i.e., after being driven (in 2 wheel drive mode)
> for , say a half hour. It *will* enter the 4 wheel
> drive mode when it's cold, e.g., first thing in
> the morning.
> 
> Any ideas, similar problems, solutions?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Dan Wasser
> danw@alux2.att.com

  It may be related and it may not.  My brother-in-law took his Explorer
  in for service @36,000 mi. and was told that he needed to have some
  "pin" replaced in the 4WD system since it was worn ($135.00 PAL).
  Failure to replace said pin would "eventually trash the 4WD", and
  would then cost lost more $$$s to fix.  Such was the justification
  for doing it "now"!
  
  This appears to be a "known problem" since they were looking for it
  during regular maintenance.

  But then, what do I know, I drive something other than a FORD.

  Cheers,
  Victor Johnson
  --------------
From: todd_oconnor@taligent.com (Todd O'Connor)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Hunting For Idle
Date: 21 Aug 92 18:01:42 GMT
Organization: Taligent, Inc.
X-Date: Fri, 21 Aug 92 11:02:23 GMT
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d3


Here's the problem.

Lately my Jeep has been hunting for idle between 400 and 1,000 rpm.  After the
engine has warmed up the idle cycles between the previous values while waiting at
stop lights and sometimes stalls all together.  This is a sporadic problem but is
happening more frequently now.  I'm using super unleaded fuel, no gas additives. 
Vacuum seems to be fine, no leaks or audible noises, air filter is clean (newly
reoiled) and I've replaced the fuel filter.

Vehicle

          - '89 Jeep Wrangler
          - 4.2L 258 I-6
          - 2 barrel carb
          - no A/C
          - approx. 37,000 miles

Anyone have any ideas where I should start looking next?  TPS (Throttle position
sensor), timing, exhaust system (ie backed up cat).....  The carb settings for idle
and fast idle seem to be within factory ranges.

This can be a real pain with power brakes and sterring to have the engine die while
you're coming to a stop............


Thanks in advance,
Todd
todd_oconnor@taligent.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: Tom Santos <tom_santos@taligent.com>
Subject: Re: Spark plug wire help
Organization: Taligent, Inc.
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 00:22:57 GMT

Ooops.  My car doesn't have spark plug wires... no alternator.  My
mixture is still rich though.

--Tom--
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech