HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: cdt@sw.stratus.com (C. D. Tavares)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rockets
Subject: Re: QUEST ADDRESS/INFO
Date: 17 Apr 92 16:22:23 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Stratus Computer, Inc.

In article <1992Apr17.021012.15382@news.Hawaii.Edu>, helen@pulua.hcc.hawaii.edu (Helen Rapozo) writes:
> >Quest Aerospace Education Inc.
> Phoenix!?!  I wonder if they are using the old Centuri place or their
> ex-employees.

The old Centuri place is long gone.  But you can't start a rocket company
in Phoenix without SOME of the old employes gravitating back.  Leroy
Piester, oddly enough, ISN'T one of them.  But Grant Boyd (Mr. ACME Rockets)
is involved.  Also involved are Ed LaCroix (Mr. Apogee Components), Bill
Stine (Harry's son), and Dane Boles (formerly Mr. Estes Flack!)  Nobody I
know of has heard of Bob DelPrincipe since Centuri folded.  He went off 
to McDonald Douglas to design aircraft lavatories, and has only been seen
once since.
-- 

cdt@pdp.sw.stratus.com      --If you believe that I speak for my company,
OR cdt@vos.stratus.com        write today for my special Investors' Packet...
From: reynolds@panix.com (Brian Reynolds)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rockets
Subject: Re: r.m.r FAQ list
Date: 11 Apr 92 19:25:39 GMT
Article-I.D.: panix.1992Apr11.192539.10419
Organization: PANIX - Public Access Unix Systems of NY

In article <454@rml.UUCP> jack@rml.UUCP (jack hagerty) writes:
>I sent the following to Buzz but it bounced. While editing it to
>try again I realized that this might be a good starting point for
>a group discussion on what should go into the FAQ.
>
>- Jack

	How about a section for scale information?  A pointer to Peter
Alway's book, contact addresses at various "full scale" maunfacturers,
and other sources for scale data would be a good start.


-- 
Brian Reynolds
reynolds@panix.com
NAR# 54438
From: utidjian@remarque.berkeley.edu (David M.V. Utidjian)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rockets
Subject: Re: Vashon and Cold Power
Date: 13 Apr 1992 06:12:22 GMT
Organization: Processed People for a Processed America
Distribution: na
NNTP-Posting-Host: remarque.berkeley.edu

	I used to have a "Cold Power" rocket from Estes back in the early
seventies... I think it was called the "Sargent".... It was a sort of scale
model of a US Army missile.  I painted it olive drab. 

	The Sargent had plastic rails contact cemented onto the side of
the propellant tank/body/motor to clip the fins into.  It went about
200-300 feet up on an ~75 degree day (ambient temp. was a big factor
in the performance).... I later used the same model in a 2-stage config.

	I used a D-12 first stage and it flew beautifully... very high....
but I forgot to increase the number of "timer" discs in the top of the motor
.... the 'chute opened rather early and tore itself loose... the motor was
damaged beyond repair during the landing.

	The fun thing about these rockets was testing them in your hand...
brrrr....  The thrust was noticeably affected by the plastic nozzle.
If the nozzle was removed the thrust was noticeably reduced.  Other
than that the "Cold Power" series was pretty boring.

-Dave-
From: knight@tarkas.tamu.edu (Rob Roberts)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rockets
Subject: Re: Vashon and Cold Power
Keywords: n
Date: 10 Apr 92 07:15:27 GMT
Organization: Black Knight Computer Systems

I built several shoulder-launched rockets in the early 80's using minis to D's
and had no problem burning off my face.  I made the bazooka from 7 feet of un-
perforated pvc pipe and used metal angle iron inserts for guidance.  I had one
insert for 3-fin rockets and one for 4-fin.  I also used a fold-out shield like
the army uses (plexiglass with a sight on it.  Although you should always fire
one up at at least 45 degrees, I did fire one at about 15 degrees at a station-
ary target out on a ranch--the accuracy was pretty good.

BTW, if anyone wants plans for the bazooka, email me and I'll try to get them 
to you.  I used a unique launch system--two of the angle irons had charge
plates for the first two feet of tube, so when taping the igniter in the 
proper position, you could rear load rapidly and fire from the trigger locate 
3 feet from the aft end of the tube.  At one point during a show, I was loading
and launching every 8 seconds.

Also, when spot landing, I added light wire fingers to the first two feet of 
the insert, so I could launch close to vertical--great against the competition
for sudden wind shifts.

Rob Roberts
knight@tarkas.tamu.edu
From: buzz@rsd.dl.nec.com (Buzz McDermott)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rockets
Subject: FAQ list for r.m.r
Keywords: FAQ
Date: 10 Apr 92 17:50:24 GMT
Organization: NEC America, Radio Software Dept

Over the past several months I have seen certain questions asked time and
again (What is Tripoli? What are the current manufacturers? What is the
NAR? What is HPR?....).  I have also noticed an increasing number of
submitters (yeah!!).

I believe that r.m.r would greatly benefit from an FAQ.  It doesn't currently
have one.  I don't claim to be any great expert on rocketry (I've been more
'out' than 'in' over the past 25 years).  I am willing (stupid/crazy enough??)
to tackle the job of an FAQ, if there is any interest.

So...If any others out there would like to see an r.m.r FAQ do at least one
(and preferably two) of two things:

1. Send me , via direct email, notice of your preference that a) I start
   the job or b) I don't (no reasons required for either vote).
2. Send me, via direct email, lists of questions you think out to go into the 
   FAQ (answers wouldn't hurt, either :-).

There is a lot of model rocketry/HPR expertise reading this newsgroup.  It
would be nice to get a little of 'on paper' for others to utilize.

If this is the not procedure for getting an FAQ for a group started, please
excuse my ignorance.

Ok, the fool has gone and volunteered.  Any takers?

============================================================================
Buzz McDermott                   Internet: buzz@rsd.dl.nec.com
NAR#: 13559
============================================================================
From: muth@a.cs.wvu.wvnet.edu (Wayne A Muth)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: Need RAILBENDER for G-gauge
Date: 9 Apr 92 18:12:04 GMT


  Several times recently, it has been noted [in this forum]
  that one needs to use a RAILBENDER when laying own track in
  G-gauge.  I will be using either long pieces of rail from
  LBG or shorter pieces gotten from LGB or Aristo track sections.

  Can someone give me a vendor name (and address or phone?) for
  a suitable RAILBENDER -- and/or please identify product
  name or manufacturer ... thanks.  Wayne.
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: CPLS13@EMAIL.MOT.COM ()
Subject: Re: Mountains
Reply-To:  ()
Organization: Motorola CoveragePLUS Engineering
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1992 14:38:51 GMT
Followup-To: Mountains 


> What do people find the best for making hills, mountains, etc.  Paper mache?
> Foam?  Something else?

I use window screen over a 1x2 framing and then cover using a material called
Durabond.  This is a very hard, quick setting plaster material that comes in
powder form to be mixed with water.  It comes in various "speeds", which determine
how fast it sets - anywhere from 30-120 minutes, and sets rock hard.  It takes
a little practice to get the feel for it, but it can be molded and sculpted while it
is setting, and takes paint fairly well, although a good plaster primer is recommended
as a base coat.  The material is available at any good lumber yard/building center/
home center type store.

times a wastin'
From: fasano@venus.iucf.indiana.edu (Matthew John Fasano)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: "operating accessories"
Date: 9 Apr 92 23:00:34 GMT
Reply-To: fasano@venus.iucf.indiana.edu
Organization: IUCF

railroad.  I'm particularly interested in crains and such to load
and unload the train cars.  I will probably scratch build most of them 
becuase I either can't afford them or they are not very reliable or 
work realisticly.
	I hope that many of you have tried making these types of things
or have discovered affordable equipment that works well.  This does not 
appear to be a very popular facet of the hobby because I don't see much in 
the literature.  Maybe some of you who do literature searches can do one 
to find operating accessories and post it here.
	I'll let you know how my pursuit to load and unload model 
train cars is going if I ever get anywhere.

					thanks
					Matt Fasano
From: pomplun@amazon.llnl.gov
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: sound chips wanted
Date: 17 Apr 92 01:14:07 GMT

Is anyone aware of what companies make sound chips that imitate railroad (or
other sounds)??  A friend sent me a data sheet on a "chicken chip" (no
kidding!!), but it got lost.  
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: jwp@bernie.sal.wisc.edu (Jeffrey W Percival)
Subject: Question about Atlas Snap-track usage
Organization: Space Astronomy Lab, Madison WI
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 19:48:59 GMT

I have a question about a track plan I found in the "Nine N-scale Track
Plans book" by Atlas.  I'm just beginning, so I thought I'd try a
layout using Atlas track segments.  The layout I chose uses cascaded
turnouts to create a switching yard.  Picture two left turnouts, with
the second connected to the branch of the first.  On the main part of
the first turnout, the plan calls for a 19" curve in the same direction
as the branch, thus creating two parallel tracks in the switching
yard.

The problem:  The 19" curve does not clear the switch motor of the
second turnout.  I tried removing the tie ends near the base of the 19"
curve, and managed to get it to match the intended center of curvature,
but then the rail is so close to the switch motor, no car will clear!

Now, I know that using under-the-table switch motors and high-end track
is the real way to go, but why does Atlas depict track usage that
appears not to be physically possible?
-- 
Jeffrey W Percival (jwp@larry.sal.wisc.edu) (608)262-8686
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: kenw@protocol.com (Ken West)
Subject: Could someone send me part 2 of the CTC-80 control program
Summary: Need part 2 of the CTC-80 control program.
Organization: Protocol Systems, Incorporated
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1992 20:00:55 GMT

A series of 5 postings was recently made of a CTC-80 control program.
I never saw part 2.  Could someone mail me a copy.  Thanks very much.
----------

				Ken West
				Protocol Systems, Incorporated
				8500 SW Creekside Place
				Beaverton, Oregon 97005-7107
				(503) 526-8500
				(503) 526-4200 FAX
				kenw@protocol
				...uunet!protocol!kenw

It's not safe out here! It's wonderous-- with things to satiate desires both
subtle and gross... but it's not for the timid." --Q, "Q Who"
From: swist@doodly.mcc.dec.com (Jim Swist)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: Re: Helix headaches
Date: 6 Apr 92 12:49:13 GMT
Reply-To: swist@took.enet.dec.com
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation

18" for whatever reason is the magic number for most HO
equipment.  Probably 95% of the stuff on the market will
run at this radius.   The longer stuff looks pretty ugly -
you get not only overhang on engines, but underhang
on long passenger cars, i.e., you need significant clearance
on not only the outside, but also the inside of the curve.

The 24" figure is probably the 100% point, i.e. there is
nothing made that wont run on a 24" radius (again, 
subject to aesthetics/realism constraints).
From: jones@pyrite.cs.uiowa.edu (Douglas W. Jones,201H MLH,3193350740,3193382879)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: Re: Mountains
Date: 16 Apr 92 16:05:32 GMT

From article <jfarmer.703287366@sfu.ca>,
by jfarmer@fraser.sfu.ca (Jason Michael Farmer):

> What do people find the best for making hills, mountains, etc.  Paper
> mache?  Foam?  Something else?

Rigid styrofoam is an appealing and relatively new material for making
terrain.  I've never used it, but the basic technique is straightforward.
Laminate the foam to the general shape desired, using Elmer's glue or
similar glues that don't attack polystyrene, then carve it to shape with
a hot wire or something.  Once the terrain is shaped, you can go over it
with a layer of texture paint or thin plaster to get a final surface that
hasn't got foam texture.

Hardshell plaster is widely used; this is a thin layer of plaster-soaked
paper formed over an armature of string, wadded newspaper, styrofoam
packing peanuts, or just about anything else you can form to the shape of
the terrain you want to model.  Once the shell is formed, it is self
supporting.  I use paper-towels soaked in plaster of paris for hardshell.
Stronger plasters, such as US Gypsum's Hydrocal, are widely used but
harder to find.  Newspaper is sometimes used.

Paper mache over chicken-wire was once popular, but has declined in
popularity since the popularization of hardshell techniques.  I remember
doing some paper mache work in humid weather where the terrain began to
get mouldy because it dried so slowly -- plaster has far less nutriant
value than flour and water paste.

Sculptamold, an art product, is growing in popularity, particularly for
finishing work on top of other surfaces such as hardshell or foam.  It
is a cellulose based material, something of a high-tech paper mache, and
the advantage it has over plaster is that it sets up slowly and can be
worked and re-worked to get things right before it finally dries.

				Doug Jones
				jones@cs.uiowa.edu
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: jcv26@cas.org (Jon Vander Hill)
Subject: Plans for small switching layouts?
Organization: Chemical Abstracts Service, Columbus, Ohio, USA
Distribution: rec
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1992 19:17:15 GMT

I'm interested in building an HO layout, but have only room for
basically a long (~10 ft) shelf of reasonable (18-24 in) depth.  Can
anyone point me to specific track plans or prototype ideas for
building a linear "switching" layout in this space?  I'm looking for
reasonable prototypical operation (I don't want a "switching
problem" layout) and want to really emphasize quality and detail in 
rolling stock, structures, and overall theme.  I'd also like to leave
open the possiblity of integrating it into a larger pike in the
future.

I had a O-27 and HO layouts as a kid, but I'm just getting back
into the hobby.  I've been reading up (man has this stuff changed in
15 years!), so I'm really looking for specific information and ideas.

Any help would be appreciated.  Email is fine if this is
a FAQish query.

Jon Vander Hill
jon@cas.org
--
Jon Vander Hill
jon@cas.org
PADI DM, NACD & NSS-CDS Full Cave
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: sra@bistromath.mitre.org (Stan R. Ames)
Subject: Re: Elektor Digital Controller
Organization: The MITRE Corporation, Bedford, MA
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1992 11:36:35 GMT

In article <1992Apr15.235504.9596@pta.pyramid.com.au> russ@pta.pyramid.com.au (Russell Day) writes:
>Greetings fellow railnerds,
>	I have just received reprints for the complete set of 13
>	articles on the Elektor magazine Digital rail controller.

The set of articles is available in the US from Old Colony Sound Labs P.O.
Box 243 Peterborough, NH 03458 (603) 924-6371 Fax (603) 924 9467 for aprox $13

>		Locomotive controller for AC or DC locomotives.
>		Use with 2 rail or 3 rail.
>
>	The last point is interesting - Maerlkin chose to have
>	completely different drive electronics for AC and DC systems. 
>	This one drives both AC and DC locos, the DC ones have an
>	extra, tiny board.
>

The system described in the articles is the Marklin Digital~ system which is
the AC system.  This system is based upon a Motorola 145027 chip and thus
is is relatively easy for others to build.  The Elektor articles also have
a daughter board that lets the receiver work on 2 rail systems.  From a 
series of discussons I have had with someone familar with its operation
its operation for 2 rail was disapointing.  For 3 Rail users its ideal
if you want to build your own.  For 2 rail users I would not recommend it
However its better than nothing if you cannot aford anything else.

Stan Ames
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: Looking for S. California HO clubs
From: dagnall@violet.ccit.arizona.edu (Robert A. Dagnall)
Date: 12 Apr 1992 22:26 MST  
Distribution: world,local
Organization: University of Arizona
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    

The subject line says what's important.  I've moved
to Orange County, and I'd like to see some clubs in
the area.  If you know of one, please pass along the 
information I need to get in contact.

Thanks very much!
Robert Dagnall
dagnall@ccit.arizona.edu

Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: BPorter@world.std.com (Barry M Porter)
Subject: Re: Cambridge
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1992 12:49:16 GMT

In article <8APR199221184373@vax2.concordia.ca> charlan@vax2.concordia.ca (M.CHARLAND) writes:
>
>I will be in the Cambridge, MA area next weekend.  Can anyone suggest a hobby
>shop where I can get N-scale track, etc.  In particular, I am interested in
>finding switches at less than the Canadian price.  Is there a discount 
>rail hobby market in the USA?
>
>Thanks  

If you will have transpo Kens Trains in Sudbury, MA
is an N scale only train store. There are no hobby shops that I know of
in the Cities of Boston or Cambridge that "do" N Scale...Ken's has the best 
selection of N Scale stuff I've seen in this area....If you need directions, 
Email me...Kens is about 1/2 hour from Cambridge...

BTW, there are some decent train watching sites in Cambridge...

Barry
.
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: ggg9y@poe.acc.Virginia.EDU (Garth G. Groff)
Subject: Re: Helix headaches
Organization: University of Virginia
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1992 20:20:08 GMT

RE :  Bowser/Bachman controversy

Be advised that English's Model Railroad Supply (a division of the same
company that owns Bowser) offers replacement mechanisms for Bachman steamers.
These seem to be the same engineering as the excellent Bowser kits.  Not
for the beginner, but not impossible for the average guy.  Check ads in
MR or RMC for details.

--Haridas
From: ggg9y@poe.acc.Virginia.EDU (Garth G. Groff)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: Re: Looking for S. California HO clubs
Date: 13 Apr 92 12:50:40 GMT
Distribution: world,local
Organization: University of Virginia

RE:  Clubs in Orange County

It has been many years since I lived in the area, but there was at least
one club in Orange, and there were others in the surrounding area.  I 
suggest that you check with Frank's Hobby Shop on Tustin Ave. in Orange.
This is still one of the best shops in the area and the place where the
better model railroaders hang out.  They should be able to put you in 
touch with a club.  You might also check with the LA division of the NMRA.
When I was a member we had a regular column in the magazine with club news
(I wrote it).  Maybe it was continued after I left.  By the way, there was
an O-scale club at the Orange County fairgrounds.  Maybe they're still in
business.
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: ggg9y@poe.acc.Virginia.EDU (Garth G. Groff)
Subject: Re: Elektor Digital Controller
Organization: University of Virginia
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1992 12:07:41 GMT

RE: "Railnerds"

Excuse me, but I am not a "nerd" and I find such terms used on the
net to be distasteful and disrespectful.  If you can show respect
for net members, you are welcome to permanently log off.

--Garth G. Groff
From: mjh@cs.utexas.edu (Michael J. Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: Re: MRC7000 power pack tinkering?
Date: 16 Apr 1992 15:42:14 -0500
Organization: U Texas Dept of Computer Sciences, Austin TX
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu

Does anyone know when MRC will introduce a similar sound and power set,
but for AC sets?  I'd love one for my Lionel passenger set.  I was surprised
to see that their pack is only for DC...


Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: ggg9y@poe.acc.Virginia.EDU (Garth G. Groff)
Subject: Re: Mountains
Organization: University of Virginia
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1992 17:42:05 GMT

RE:  Styrofoam for scenery

Aside from the moral/ecological implications of using ozone-
destroying styrofoam for scenery, consider that the dust from
cutting and shaping this stuff is dangerous.  If you choose to
use styrofoam, be sure to wear a dust mask.  Keep a vacuum
cleaner handy because this stuff gets all over the place quickly.

--Haridas
From: jones@pyrite.cs.uiowa.edu (Douglas W. Jones,201H MLH,3193350740,3193382879)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: Re: Need RAILBENDER for G-gauge
Date: 10 Apr 92 14:03:26 GMT

From article <2007@h.cs.wvu.wvnet.edu>,
by muth@a.cs.wvu.wvnet.edu (Wayne A Muth):
> 
>   Several times recently, it has been noted [in this forum]
>   that one needs to use a RAILBENDER when laying own track in
>   G-gauge.

For prototypical radius curves, you're unlikely to need a bender, but
if you're laying very tight curves, such as the ones usually used in G
scale or in traction modelling in any scale (including 1:1), benders are
handy.

I have built a rail bender for bending pieces of rail to a uniform radius
in my home shop out of scrap wood, screws and washers.  I did it to bend
the code 83 rail for the ring-rail of my HO turntable pit, but the design
should scale pretty well.

What you need are 3 rollers, two on one side of the rail and one on the
other side, pressing towards the gap between the first two.  I mande my
rollers out of washers, and I adjusted them to ride against the web of the
rail.  My washers were pivoted on small wood screws -- for the big rail of
G-gauge track, you'd pivot large washers on big wood screws.

Each of the three rollers was screwed into a different piece of wood, I
used 3/4" square wood strips, but for G, I'd use foot-long pieces of 2"x4".
I nailed and glued the two outer pieces to a backing board, a scrap of
1"x4" wood (use a scrap of a 2"x12" cieling joist for G).  To get the
spacing right, I clamped the three pieces holding the rollers together
before nailing, then slid the middle piece out before it got captured by
any excess glue.

To use the bender, slide the middle piece in (you may need to tap it into
place with a hammer if you made a good tight fit) so that the rollers grab
a piece of rail, and then hammer (tap gently at first) the middle piece
sideways to put a slight bend in the rail, then clamp the three pieces
that hold the rollers tightly so they won't move and then push the rail
through the bender (soft-jawed pliers are helpful!)

On the first pass, you'll put only a gentle bend in the rail.  On later
passes, with a bit of re-adjusting of the bender, you can get tighter
bends.  Repeat the process until you've got the radius you want.

					Doug Jones
					jones@cs.uiowa.edu
From: swist@doodly.mcc.dec.com (Jim Swist)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: Re: how steep is steep?
Date: 6 Apr 92 12:39:55 GMT
Reply-To: swist@took.enet.dec.com
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation

If you want to run engines with  (horrors!) unprototypical rubber traction
tires, 
you can get away with much steeper grades.   I was forced to do this as the
layout sorta evolved from an up-and-over figure-8 train set.

My biggest objection to overly steep grades is not only the train length
limitation, but also the exaggerated speedup/slowdown affect as the
trains go down/up the grades.


Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad