HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: buying a Ritchie Bruheat bucket in London
From: andy@comp.vuw.ac.nz (Andy Bond)
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 03:47:12 GMT
Organization: Dept. of Comp. Sci., Victoria Uni. of Wellington, New Zealand.
X-Mailer: mail-news 4.0


My girlfriend is about to get to England and I thought this sounded
like a great opportunity to pick up one of these Bruheat bucket things
(I doubt she will think this is a great opportunity :-).  They are
available here but I have to go through at least two more middle
people here than is probably the case in the UK.

So can some kind sole give me the address, etc., of a home brew shop
or other extremely cheap establishment in London that has these
things?  A price would also be useful.  I'm looking for a six gallon
model.

thanks,
andy


Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Subject: Re: Bottle question...
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean  VA
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 18:37:57 GMT

In article <1992Oct6.112718.1@kean.ucs.mun.ca>
 sstrong@kean.ucs.mun.ca writes:

>Question:  If I keep this stuff in the dark as much as possible will the 
>clearness of the bottles have an affect on the brew?  I usually use green 
>plastic but how can someone pass up 30 free bottles....

Shouldn't make any difference unless you let it sit in sunlight or other 
strong light for ten or more minutes.  Still, I suspect the green plastic 
wouldn't give much more protection, anyway.

I use clear plastic bottles when I use plastic bottles with no problems.

John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own
Fidonet:  1:109/131  Internet:  jdecarlo@mitre.org
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: mal@genrad.com (Mike A. Long)
Subject: labels
Organization: GenRad, Inc.
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 22:03:58 GMT

I seem to remember a posting long ago and far away (that I forgot to
save) on "how to make labels that are easy to remove".  It seems like
it was something like, soak paper in milk and slap it on, but it also
seems like there was more to it than just that.  Or perhaps one of the
follow-ons sounded even better.

Anyone remember?  Thanx a bunch, in advance...
#include "std_disclaimer.h"
#include "witty_sig.h"
Mike (Mikey) Long	Genrad, Inc.	Concord,Ma,USA	mal@genrad.com
(508) 369-4400 x3023
From: john.fix%hardgood@philabs.philips.com (John Fix) 
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: SECONDARY FERMENT
Date: 30 Sep 92 10:05:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Hardgoods East BBS - Eastchester, NY (914) 961-8749
Reply-To: john.fix%hardgood@philabs.philips.com (John Fix) 

I'm doing my first real attempt at lagering a brew, and need a little
advice.  Primary fermentation started 9/10 with an O.G. of 1.032.  I
fermented at 45 degrees for about two weeks, and just racked to a
secondary on 9/27.  The S.G. read 1.014 at this point.  I've lowered the
temp to between 35 and 40 degrees.  I have two questions...

Did I wait too long before racking to secondary?  In general, how long
should primary fermentation last, or should I go by a percentage SG
change?

Can I leave the batch in the secondary for an extended period now?  I'm
going away for two weeks, and would like to leave the brew in the fridge
rather than rush it into the bottle.  If I keep the temp at around
35-40, should it keep for a few weeks?

                                     -= John =-
From: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us (Joseph Nathan Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Munich malt and haze
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 92 00:47:34 EDT
Organization: 5 Sigma Software
Reply-To: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us
X-Mailer: uAccess - Macintosh Release: 1.5v5


In article <84980001@hpl-opus.hpl.hp.com> (rec.crafts.brewing), farland@hpl-opus.hpl.hp.com (Bill McFarland) writes:
) I am an extract brewer and previously brewed batches with small amounts
) (~1/4 lb) of Munich malt (crushed).  I have liked the flavor and smell,
) so last batch I substituted for all the Crystal malt with Munich malt (1 lb).  
) I have ended up with a very hazy beer.  I am steeping the grains in a
) boiling bag and removing them just as the water starts to boil.

Oops, there's your problem.  Can you say, starch haze.

) 1) Is Munich malt more likely to haze than crystal malt?

If you don't mash it, sure it will.  The innards of crystal are sugar
and dextrins.  Munich malt, on the other hand, contains starch that
must be converted to sugar and dextrin by mashing.

) 2) Is there any way to use substantial quantities of Munich malt without
) mashing?

Not if you don't want the haze.

) 3) What can be done about chill haze in general?  My beers always have
) some degree of chill haze.  Does Irish moss or any of the other clarity
) products actually help this?

Irish moss may eliminate some haze but not much.  Mostly it helps
you get a good hot break.  To chillproof your beer, do one or more of 
the following:

1) use 10-20% of a non-malt adjunct (rice syrup, sugar, etc.).
   works wonders.
2) add lots of Polyclar a day or two or three before bottling.
3) add bentonite a day or two or three before bottling.
4) use gelatin, isinglass or silica gel to fine your beer.  these
   will affect your beer's head retention, so take it easy
5) use a partial mash if you are using a lot of crystal or if you
   are using any starch-containing malts
6) use a filter on the chilled brew

If you have the time and space you can put conditioned bottled or kegged 
beer that has a slight haze in the fridge at about 32F for a couple of 
months.  A protein (chill) haze will fall out unless you are unlucky.

Of course, a starch haze will never clear.

Miller's book has a pretty good section on this topic.

uunet!joebloe!joseph   (609) 273-8200 day   joseph%joebloe@uunet.uu.net
2102 Ryan's Run East        Rt 38 & 41             Maple Shade NJ 80852
-----My employer isn't paying for this, and my opinions are my own-----
From: liam@alehaus.uucp (liam)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: carbouy cleaning
Date: Mon, 05 Oct 92 12:35:58 CDT
Organization: The Alehaus, a Brewer's Witch affiliate, alehaus@brewich.hou.tx.us

        I know that this is a trick thatt most of you have heard of, but 
I will relate it anyway.
        A friend recently gave me a 5 gal. carbouy that had at one time 
been used as a terrarium and even though he had tried to cean it up for 
me as best he could, it still had some really stubbourn gunk in it. After 
I got it home, I tried everything I could think of to get it cleaned out 
to no avail.  Then my roomate sugested that I try putting a coup[le hand 
fuls of rice (uncooked) in it with alittle hot water and swish it arround 
for a little while. It worked like a charm, the rice scoured the carbouy 
beautifully. I recommend this trick to anyone who has had simmular 
problems.
                                               Liam

------------------
%A@%n (%W)
Origin: The Alehaus -- Houston, TX -- 
     "Old witches never die....they just move in different circles"
From: mgustafs@zarathustra.prime.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Searching for Good Brewing Mag.
Date: 30 Sep 92 17:38:06 GMT
Reply-To: mgustafs@desoto.prime.com


Hello...

I apologize for what I am about to ask. I am a recent subscriber to this
news-group and therefore have not been in the general flow of some of the
interetsing conversations.

I would like to solicit a couple of opinions in regards to brewing magazines
and/or periodicals. I'm thinking ahead to the holidays (both my brothers
brew... I only sample! ;-).

To save on band-width, e-mail me directly... please.

Thanks... and bottoms up!
Mark
mgustafs@desoto.prime.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: kral@hplabsz.hpl.hp.com (Joseph Kral)
Subject: Re: SOLDERING COPPER PIPES
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 16:06:48 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories Palo Alto,CA

Look for a solder called 'silvabrite'.  Lead based solders are no longer 
allowed in residential plumbing.  The problem is that the lead slowly leachs
into the water.  In a brewing apparatus though, the liquid would be in contact
only momentarily, so it should'nt be a problem.  Lead based solders are much
easier to work with.

Joe.
From: arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Why Should I Buy a Grain Mill?
Date: 29 Sep 92 05:05:15 GMT
Organization: ddsw1.MCS.COM Contributor, Chicago, IL

In article <1992Sep28.144836.8203@i88.isc.com> jeq@i88.isc.com (Jonathan E. Quist) writes:
>
>Any chance a motorized washing machine wringer could be adapted?
>(Makes those old Maytag "Wash Girl" wringer-washers more attractive....
> crack the grain straight into a large mashing vessel... if you need
> aeration, give the agitator a crank or two.... :')
>I'm only half joking - if you replaced the rubber rollers with steel,
>and added a feed hopper of some sort, could it work?  A challenge
>for the engineers out there!

It is a step in the right direction but there are a few serious problems to
be solved yet.  The rollers are designed to squeeze the clothes and steel
rollers would have to have a precisely controlled spacing to keep from
crushing beyond usefulness.  You would of course have to re-orient them in
a horizontal plan, in addition to providing a rough enough finish to grab
the grain.

There is nothing one can not do if he is willing and able to put forth
the effort but I think in this case you would be better starting from
scratch.  There is nothing complecated about making two rollers and
mounting them in bearing with the proper spacing and putting a crank on
one, adding a hopper and out put collector.

There is nothing to it, that is, if you own a very large lathe and a
very accurate drill press and a few other shop tools.  If you do not
have the means to make the parts themseves, you can always find a shop
to make them for you for several hundred dollars for a one of a kind
job.

On the other hand, you can buy that one in Zymurgy for $99 or wait for
the next giveaway and get one free.

js
From: ulick@gershwin.helios.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Steam beer
Date: 2 Oct 92 14:46:45 GMT
Organization: OUC, University of Notre Dame

In article <BvH57r.K17@ddsw1.mcs.com> arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) writes:
> 
> Article 6224 (13 more) in rec.crafts.brewing:
> From: gummitch@techbook.com (Jeff Frane)
> 
> >When I toured the brewery a number of years ago they 
> reported that the ambient temperature in San Francisco (the 
> temperature at which they brew and store their beer) is 55.
> 
> It is my understanding that 55F is the high end of the 
> normal range for lagering.  It seems that this hardly 
> qualifies it as a steam beer.
> 
> Do they still claim it is or is it just a trade mark?

There is no style of beer called steam beer, right?  It is California Common
Beer, and by making their beer closer to a lager, they are making it more
common :-).


+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 
+ 'There was a  master come unto the earth, + Ulick Stafford, PP-ASEL       +
+    born in the holy land of Indiana,      + Dept of Chemical Engineering, +
+ in the mystical hills east of Fort Wayne'.+ Notre Dame, IN 46556          +
+      B'fhearr liom bheith ag eitilt.      +    ulick@bach.helios.nd.edu   +
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us (Joseph Nathan Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Full mashing Re: The Rice-Brau Challenge (Recipe + Notes)
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 92 02:00:12 EDT
Organization: 5 Sigma Software
Reply-To: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us
X-Mailer: uAccess - Macintosh Release: 1.5v5


In article <BvMKpv.8zA@ddsw1.mcs.com> (rec.crafts.brewing), arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) writes:
) In article <1992Oct2.224152.15818@news.nd.edu> ulick@gershwin.helios.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford) writes:
) >In article <BvI9nq.2w8@ddsw1.mcs.com> arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) writes:
) >> There are those who claim you should quit at 1.008 or risk 
) >> tanninitis.
) >>
) >I like tea!  Honestly, I think the amount of tannin eluted 
) >by sparge water at the end of the sparge would be insignificent
) >compared to the tannins eluted earlier in the mash and sparge.
)  
) My inntuition also.  You are about to graduate to assistant
) Momily Buster.

Well, of course, instead of relying on your suspicions and intuitions
you could rely on the word of George Fix, Dave Miller, et al., who
tell us that the extraction rate for tannins is highly dependent on
both temperature and pH.  Let's quote George:

  Unless care is taken, considerable amounts of husk-derived phenols
  and protein-tannin complexes can be extracted into wort and passed
  on to the beer.  Extraction tends to be proportional to the amount
  of sparge water used.  Since the pH of the runnings tends to increase
  with extraction, maximal levels of sparge water can be checked by
  pH measurement.  Conversely, the high pH of alkaline water itself
  stimulates extraction.  Finally, the extraction rate increases very
  rapidly above 74 to 76C, so it is important that temperature be
  controlled during the sparge.

  --Principles of Brewing Science, p. 120

Now, granted, George could be wrong and Ulick and Jack could be right.

But will you bet your beer on it?

uunet!joebloe!joseph   (609) 273-8200 day   joseph%joebloe@uunet.uu.net
2102 Ryan's Run East        Rt 38 & 41             Maple Shade NJ 80852
-----My employer isn't paying for this, and my opinions are my own-----
From: v064myby@ubvmsd.cc.buffalo.edu (Christophe J Quaranta)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: test
Date: 29 Sep 92 17:44:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

test test test
						Having problems 
						Chris Q.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: mef@netcom.Netcom.COM (Mary Ellen Foley)
Subject: What do these beers have in common?
Organization: Netcom Online Communications Service
Distribution: ba
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 08:11:50 GMT


What do these beers have in common:

    Pete's Gold Coast Lager
    Anchor Steam Beer
    Pete's Wicked Ale
    Anchor's Liberty Ale   ... ?

The answer is that all are being served at an Octoberfest celebration
at the Palo Alto Cultural Center on October 4th, 3 to 6 P.M.  These
interesting brews will complement a lunch of bratwurst or knockwurst.
Entertainment will be provided by a chorus visiting from (formerly East)
Berlin.  Proceeds to benefit the Peninsula Women's Chorus.  

Beer lovers who are interested can get more information by sending
email to mef@netcom.com.


--
WARNING!!   Opinions in posting are farther away than they appear
^^^^^^^^^
-- 
WARNING!!   Opinions in posting are farther away than they appear
^^^^^^^^^
Mary Ellen Foley   (mef@netcom.com)
From: dvac@druwa.ATT.COM (Daniel Vachon)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Missing Cider Digests
Date: 28 Sep 92 20:30:14 GMT
Distribution: rec

Help!  I am missing some of the Cider Digests, and was wondering if there
was an archive site anywhere, where I could FTP them from?!  If not, could
someone who has these please let me know you have them, and I will get back
to you and ask to have them e-mailed to me (so I don't end up with 20 people
emailing all the missing digests to me)... Thanks!!

   I am in need of digests 137, 147, 150, 151, 153-157, 164-172.  

   I also would love to get any digests before #123 if possible...

Mucho thanks in advance for the help in getting these!!

-Dan   !att!druwa!dvac
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: gummitch@techbook.com (Jeff Frane)
Subject: Re: Steam beer
Organization: TECHbooks of Beaverton Oregon - Public Access Unix
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 23:50:24 GMT

homebrew@lupulus.ssc.gov writes:


> Hello, I am a new reader to the HBD, and find it very informative. I
> would like some info on making steam beers.

> I know basically that Steam beer is a lager, fermented with lager
> yeast, at ale temps. From what I read, using yeasts not at the optimum
> temps can creat off-flavors, and act un-favorable. I can ferment ales
> here in my house at 70f. So,

> 1 - Is there a normal ferment temp for steam beer?
> 2 - Or is there something that just covers up the off flavors?

> Thanks, Jake Zaagman (jake.zaagman@f20.n3603.z1.fidonet.org)

When I toured the brewery a number of years ago they reported that the
ambient temperature in San Francisco (the temperature at which they brew
and store their beer) is 55.

Traditionally, steam beers were brewed at whatever temperature was
available; the German brewers had showed up out west with their lager
yeasts but there was no ice in sight!  They made steam beer until
artificial refrigeration came along and then BAM! virtually all went
back to brewing lagers.

It's unlikely that Anchor Steam is exactly like those early steam
beerss, but we'll never know, will we?

Jeff Frane

-- 
gummitch@techbook.COM  Public Access UNIX at (503) 220-0636 (1200/2400) 


Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: nikkanen@ntc01.tele.nokia.fi
Subject: European mail order suppliers?
Organization: Nokia Telecommunications.
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 09:05:23 GMT


	There must be lots of good mail order suppliers in the
	good old Europe, I just don't know them.  I'm especially
	interested in those in UK, so please e-mail me any information
	you got: address, fax-number, price level etc.  I'll then post
	a summary here in rcb.

		thank's in advance and happy brewing! / Kari

	P.S. I already know Bodega in Sweden, are there any in Denmark?
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: DARREN@ua1vm.ua.edu (Darren Evans-Young)
Subject: Re: Great idea but....
Organization: The University of Alabama, Tuscaloosa
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 05:47:12 GMT

In article <hersh.718314113@xenon.lcs.mit.edu> on
Mon, 5 Oct 1992 19:41:53 GMT you write:
 
>
>arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) writes:
>
>
> Not sure just what you do with a boring bit to get it to
> drive the mill but one user told me that after spending $90
> on a drill, it still took him 15 minutes to mill a pound of
> grain on his Marcato.
>
>
 
Jack, I'm the one you are referring to and that's not quite
what I said. I hate it when people twist things around to
benefit themselves.
 
First of all, after borrowing friends drills for years, this was
an extra incentive to buy my own.  As I stated in my mail to you
in July, I needed a drill anyway.  So I dont consider the cost of
the drill a part of the cost of the Marga Mulino. Any drill will
work.
 
Second, I told you that HAND-CRANKED it took me about 15 minutes
per pound. This was an estimate since I never timed myself.
 
Using a drill, it took me about 6 minutes to do 1 lb of grain or
1 hour to grind 10lbs for the batch I was making.  It took this long
because the rollers would not pull the grain in very fast and
some slight hand pressure in the hopper was needed to speed things up.
 
After making some adjustments to the rollers as Jay has recommended,
I've cut this time down to 3 minutes per pound.  I'm VERY pleased
with my Marga Mulino and if a fellow brewer asks me which mill
to buy, I'd have to recommend the Mulino.
 
>The boring bit fits firmly into the slot where the hand crank would go.
>You just have to see the thing to know why the boring bit works....
 
Jay, I use a screwdriver bit on my drill...works great.
 
>I'm sure this person also takes 30 minutes to brush his teeth at night...
 
20 minutes...20 minutes.  30 minutes if I have to floss too. :)
 
Darren
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: spencer@med.umich.edu (Spencer W. Thomas)
Subject: Altbier availability?
Organization: University of Michigan
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 17:21:11 GMT

Our club runs an annual "Brewola" -- "everybody" brews a beer from the
same recipe, then we taste and rate all of them.  This year we chose
Papazian's Osmosis Amoeba Alt as the recipe.  Of course, club members
are now wondering what an Alt "should" taste like.  I am unable to
find any commercial examples in the Ann Arbor (MI) area.  There is a
possibility I could get a friend to bring some from Chicago, if he
knew where to get it.  Or, I would be willing to reimburse expenses
for someone to mail me a few bottles, for "analytical purposes" (check
with me by e-mail before doing this, of course!)  It is also possible
that I could make a run to Toledo (Ohio) or Windsor (Canada).

According to Eckhart (sp?), Pinkus, Weihenstephan, and Widmer make
Altbiers.  

--
=Spencer W. Thomas 		|  Info Tech and Networking, B1911 CFOB, 0704
   "Genome Informatician"	|  Univ of Michigan, Ann Arbor, MI 48109
Spencer.W.Thomas@med.umich.edu	|  313-747-2778, FAX 313-764-4133
From: v064myby@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (Christophe J Quaranta)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Double Malting
Date: 30 Sep 92 18:12:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41


	Double malting will produce better beer - the corn sugar is basically
used for economy. All it does is boost the alcohol content.  It does not add
flavor or body and will 'water down' the taste of your beer.  
	Corn sugar should be replaced approximately pound for pound with
dry or syrup malt extract.  It will cost more, but the end results are MUCH
better.
				
					Latre,
					Chris Q.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: reb@Ingres.COM (Phydeaux)
Subject: Re: Blackberry Brews
Reply-To: reb@Ingres.COM (Phydeaux)
Organization: E 4th St Home For The Overeducated Underemployed - Chicago Div.
Date: 6 Oct 92 19:59:19 GMT

In article <jdecarlo.307.718396866@mitre.org> jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo) writes:
>Here's a recipe I just used for a cherry wheat beer:
>
>1) Make a wheat beer.
>2) Put three lbs. of cherries in the primary.
>3) Rack into the secondary with three lbs. of cherries.

Was there  any processing/cooking/almost-boiling of  the  second three
pounds added to the secondary at step two and a half?

>4) Bottle.

Sounds good! Yum!

				reb
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: kral@hplabsz.hpl.hp.com (Joseph Kral)
Subject: Re: Bottles suitable?
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 16:02:32 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories Palo Alto,CA

I use bottles from Red Tail Ale, Samuel Adams, and others.  They appear to be
new and not previously used.  They work fine.  As for 'screw tops', one must
differentiate between 'screw tops' and 'twist offs'.  Screw tops are like
tonic water bottles.  These are unsuitable.  I've had no problem with 
twist offs.  Try your capper on one to see how it works (before bottling time).

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: mol@jyu.fi (Mika O. Latokartano)
Subject: How to minimize yeast flavor?
Keywords: yeast,flavor
Organization: University of Jyvaskyla, Finland
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 07:37:48 GMT


  Any good hints on how to minimize the yeast flavor in homebrew?
  Two-stage fermentation (primary - carefully racking to secondary),
  careful siphoning into bottles - these are rather obvious.

  Are there any other methods I could employ?

  Cheers!

	- Mika


-- 
[  Mika O. Latokartano		|    "They say the sea is cold, but the sea  ]
[  Internet : mol@jyu.fi     	|     contains the hottest blood of all."    ]
[  mol@vipunen.hut.fi          	|     Whales Weep Not!  -D.H.  Lawrence      ]
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing