HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: scol@scottsdale.az.stratus.com (Scott Colbath)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: THE NITRITES ARE DROPPING! THE NITRITES ARE DROPPING!!!!!
Date: 6 Nov 92 14:58:39 GMT
Article-I.D.: transfer.7965

THE NITRATES HAVE DROPPED! Gonzo. 0 ppm

I went to the local fish store last night and picked up a few new fish.
1) A male/female pair of Dwarf Gouramis.
2) Four Neon Tetras. Two of which died within the first four hours of being in   
   the tank. I don't know why.

I also moved my male Betta from his 1 gallon hex tank into the 29 gallon. He 
likes it there much better than the hex. Room to swim and socialize with other  
fish. He did something I had never seen before which I guess is a defense  
thing. He made his gills fan out and raised all fins in an apparent attempt to  
scare off his own reflection in the tank. The Betta is really a beautiful fish  
to watch swim. I might pick up a female and try breeding now.

To replenish the now vacated 1 gallon hex, I bought a pair of small Tiger  
Barbs. I may later move them to the 29 gallon tank but I have heard that they  
are agressive little guys. Any comments on that?

--
**********************************************************
Scott Colbath
Stratus Computer
Phoenix, Az.  (602)852-3106
Internet:scott_colbath@az.stratus.com
**********************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Paul A Prior)
Subject: Re: Metal Halides In! [M][L]
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 21:48:26 GMT

I am pretty sure the bulbs you got are 4200K MH bulbs which are less
blue (and thus more yellow) than the higher temp 5500 K bulbs from
coralife (venture).  You may find that you will want to replace the 
bulbs--5500K are much more "white" than 4200.

Either way, enjoy.

-- 
--------pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu----(614) 621-8240----------------
Paul A. Prior    Ban anchors, not reef tanks    Nuke Gay Whales for Jesus  
3rd year medical student		        
The Ohio State U. College of Medicine   Tobacco Kills- Please don't smoke!
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Paul A Prior)
Subject: Re: Venturi Skimmer Design
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1992 00:37:31 GMT

In article <2097@celia.UUCP> celia!steve@usc.edu (Steve Tyree) writes:
>
> I have been in the market for a venturi skimmer and have made some initial
>"fact finding". I talked to a representative of Marine Technical Concepts
>who sells the "most efficient" skimmer design on the market. Unfortunately
>the price reflects this also. Way up there ! He stated that their design
>uses a contained pump to push water through the venturi valve at a very
>fast rate. This pump recirculates the water in the skimmer, thus the actual
>throughput from the tank can be set at any rate. He said that the main pro-
>blem with the venturi valve is that water rate needs to be fast to get max-
>imum air bubble efficiency. If this is correct than water flow rates in 
>"cheaper" venturi designs are so fast that efficient skimming might not be
>possible. Anyone else have any further insight into this venturi design
>issue ? It might lead me to try to build my own.
>

It's the simple physical facts of the venturi princple.  The two things 
that will suck more air and therefore increase effeciency of the skimmer
are higher flow rates and higher pressure.  Good pumps provide both. Of 
course if the high flow rates make the water exit too fast then the 
benefits are lost, so there is a balance to be made.

-- 
--------pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu----(614) 621-8240----------------
Paul A. Prior    Ban anchors, not reef tanks    Nuke Gay Whales for Jesus  
3rd year medical student		        
The Ohio State U. College of Medicine   Tobacco Kills- Please don't smoke!
From: scol@scottsdale.az.stratus.com (Scott Colbath)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: [F] Quarantine tank questions.
Date: 5 Nov 92 14:42:19 GMT


Now that I am approaching the time to add new fish to my tank, I was wondering  
if the following would be a good idea.

I have my 29 gallon community tank which in the past, while cycling, has had  
it's problems (ick, dropsy). My thoughts are that when I buy a new fish, I  
should toss it in my 10 gallon goldfish tank for a quarantine period. There are  
two very healthy goldfish in the tank which are about 2 inches long. Would the  
goldfish be agressive towards the new additions? Is this a good idea at all?

In addition, my Silver Molly has developed what apears to be a very small  
freckle like mark on it's belly. It is acting fine, eating well and very active  
as usual. Could this be a problem or maybe a late blooming birthmark =8^).

--
**********************************************************
Scott Colbath                 **** DAN QUAYLE IN "94" ****
Stratus Computer
Phoenix, Az.  (602)852-3106
Internet:scott_colbath@az.stratus.com
**********************************************************
From: oleg@Veritas.COM (Oleg Kiselev)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: (F) Killer Lemon Tetra?
Date: 11 Nov 92 02:58:11 GMT
Reply-To: oleg@veritas.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Organization: Palo Alto Killifish Loft
X-Disclaimer: I speak for myself only unless explicitly indicated otherwise

mark stephens <stephens@kong.gsfc.nasa.gov> writes:
>My Lemon Tetras don't show this agression, but they are in a 75gallon,
>well planted tank.

One of local fish shops has a large (300+ gal?) F/W tank with lots of
landscaping and plants.  The fish mix is too eclectic for my tastes
(glass cat fish, Synodontis and Corydoras aesthetically do not belong 
in the same tank, nor do cherry barbs and various tetras), but the tank 
is so vast that the various species easily  manage to avoid each other
and co-exist.  

The lemon tetras in that tank were huge -- easily over 2".  They were 
hanging around in a school, kept together by various external disturbances:
the racing team of perpetually spawning cherry barbs, an oblivious team
of fully grown rainbows, a pugnatious couple of occasionally spawning angels,
etc.  

So one way of keeping the lemon tetras from turning on each other is to
put them in a large tank with large neighbours.  
-- 
Don't blame me, I voted Libertarian.

Oleg Kiselev                                             oleg@veritas.com
VERITAS Software                           ...!{apple|uunet}!veritas!oleg
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: "larry wheatley" <larry.wheatley@canrem.com>
Subject: un: (m) bad city wate
Reply-To: "larry wheatley" <larry.wheatley@canrem.com>
Organization: Canada Remote Systems
Distribution: rec
Date: 12 Nov 92 10:38:32 EST

Hi All,
       I recently recieved a fax from the city water supply on 
water quality analysis.  I have heard of some pretty bad city water.
I live just outside TORONTO. (BLUE JAYS!!!) It makes no mention 
of CHLORAMINE in the water only CHLORIDE and CHLORINE!?!.......

CHLORINE TOTAL    0.5 MG/L
CHLORIDE         35.7 MG/L
CALCIUM          42.2 MG/L
HARDNESS        140.4 MG/L 
AMMONIUM TOTAL   0.16 MG/L
NITRATES         0.47 MG/L
PH               8.1  
CONDUCTIVITY    350.8 UMHO/CM is this the redox potential???
PHOSPHORUS TOTAL .003 MG/L
SULPHATE         30.0 MG/L

So is this good water for my reef tank or should I treat it?
for now I have been letting it stand for a couple of days 
before I use it for evaporation.
I read in Moe that CHLORINE AND AMMONIA form chloramine can
the 0.5 chlorine and 0.16 ammonia form chloramine in the tap???
Thanks for any help or comments?

Larry Wheatley
---
  DeLuxe 1.21 #4132  I tried the rest but bought the best!!!!
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:8665 alt.aquaria:5672 sci.aquaria:1588
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria,sci.aquaria
Subject: Re: [M] Drilling a Tank
From: <UD005565@NDSUVM1.BITNET>
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 09:09:32 CST
Organization: North Dakota Higher Education Computer Network

     They are right. The actual drilling of the glass is the easist
part of the deal. All you need do is get a diamond drill the proper
size and keep water flowing on the hole while it is beiing bored.
After the drilling howeve the glass will be stressed and it would
need to be annealed to remove the stress. Maybe you could leave a
smaller tank without annealing, but with a 75 gallon you would
have a time bomb that will go off as soon as you fill the tank.
                                          Bill Martin
From: awhj@vax5.cit.cornell.edu (Tom Fredericks)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: DIY, build a 55 gal tank stand
Date: 6 Nov 92 12:04:58 EST
Distribution: rec
Organization: Cornell University

> FAMA had an excellent article on how to build a tank stand a few months ago 
> (I believe it was the September issue).  I used that design to build stands
> to hold 2 55 gallon tanks.  My only change was to use 2x6 wood instead
> of 2x4.  Here are some things I learned:
> 
...stuff deleted
> 
> 	4) Become good friends with someone who has access to a band saw.
> 		If you want to cut the notches for a second row,
> 		using a band saw is the only way.  A jigsaw is just not
> 		strong enough.

  You can cut these notches quite easily with a table saw.  You could also do
it with a circular saw but a table saw is better.  Mark out the rectangle to
be removed, set the height of the blade to be the depth of the cut-out and
make repeated cuts into the cut-out about 1/8" apart or so.  The 2x4 needs to
be up on the 2" side for this operation.  When you get to
the other end of the cut-out (which now is a series of very thin "fingers",)
just stick a wood chisel in a cut on one end and pry. All the little pieces
pop right out.  After they're all out, dress up the cut-out section with a
file.  This works well for cut-outs in the middle of a span as well as the end.
I think it would be hard to cut out a mid-span section with a bandsaw.

  - Tom Fredericks



>     Lee
> 
> 
> --
> +---------------------------+----------------------------------------------+
> | Lee C Brink	             Office Support Co-ordinator at NPAC	   |
> | lee@nova.npac.syr.edu      Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY 13244-4100  |
> |			     315-443-1722				   |
> | "Stimpy, move your butt.  It's a higher mammal" - The Ren & Stimpy show  |
> +---------------------------+----------------------------------------------+
From: drake@Autodesk.COM (Dan Drake)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Amonia
Date: 10 Nov 92 22:04:04 GMT
Organization: Autodesk Inc., Sausalito CA, USA

wmack@en.ecn.purdue.edu (William J Mack) writes:

> Coppersafe is made by mardel labs and from what I understand the
> products they market are tested much more than most medications out
> there.  I believe I read once (this is something mardel says) that
> absolutely none of their products willkill nitrosomonos (sp?) and
> nitrobacter.
I have reservations about this.

> ...
> 
> I really have a lot of confidence in Mardel products, and most people I
> have talked to have had success with their products also.  I swear by
> maracyn and maracyn II, although I dont claim they are the be all end
> all of medications either.  Good Luck.

One of the Maracyns (I forget which) is erythromycin.  When used in the
concentration that some suppliers recommend, erythromycin is deadly to
biological filters.  Mardel appears to recommend a lower concentration,
which seems not to be harmful to the filtration; but I'm not convinced
it's very good as a medicine, either, at that concentration.
    
--
Dan Drake                 In software, the *complete* design *is* the software!
drake@Autodesk.com        --Hugh Lamaster
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: mriehle@nyx.cs.du.edu (Michael Riehle)
Subject: Re: (F) Electric Catfish
X-Disclaimer: Nyx is a public access Unix system run by the University
	of Denver for the Denver community.  The University has neither
	control over nor responsibility for the opinions of users.
Organization: Nyx, Public Access Unix at U. of Denver Math/CS dept.
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 92 01:08:01 GMT


Pete,

  Some years ago I kept an electric catfish.  They are decidedly
piscivorous, but not particularly agressive.  Mine was very secretive,
hiding out most of the day.  That they are nocturnal was very apparent.

  I've been told that they require live food and will not adapt to
prepared foods.  This was not my experience.  Mine accepted flake,
pellets, meal worms, guppies, goldfish and _Pseudotropheus elongatus_ all
with equal relish (that last was a mistake, I _thought_ it was too big for
the catfish to swallow...).

  Be prepared to remove the fish while cleaning the tank.  The jolt you
can receive from it is _very_ impressive.  My would zap me if I anywhere
near him.

--mcr@unison.com

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: Igor Livshits <igorl@uiuc.edu>
Subject: Ugh
X-Xxmessage-Id: <A7243CA5AA0214C6@spiff.ncsa.uiuc.edu>
X-Xxdate: Mon, 9 Nov 92 22:04:53 GMT
Organization: NCSA
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d12
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 04:13:11 GMT


I just spent a weekend in Chicago and visited a suburban aquarium shop (I
have a reef set-up at home).  I was dismayed to find poorly lit and
overpopulated tanks.  The anemonies all looked sad and were
deteriorating.  There were a few hard corals, but none of these were
expanded.  About the only inverts that were thriving were the shrimp.

The store's idea of low nitrates was "under 40."  Is there an
organization that regulates the invertebrate trade?  Will the Humane
Society intervene?  Or is this within "normal" store bounds?

Thanks, igor

NCSA-UIUC,  e:igorl@uiuc.edu,  p:(217) 244-5606
From: barrett@ritcsh.csh.rit.edu (Barrett M. Faneuf)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Ques. re: plants
Date: 8 Nov 92 22:16:21 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Computer Science House @ RIT
Originator: barrett@nick.csh.rit.edu


   Hi, all
 I've been reading thus newsgroup for a while and I've noticed that there 
 seem to be a number of plant-knowledgeable people out there. I've got a 
 question for you: I know that everyone's "magic formula" for plant 
 growing success is different, but are the light requirements different as 
 well? 
  I have a 10g and a 20H, both with flourescent hoods. Do I need special
 bulbs to grow plants, or will the standard ones do? I have been considering
 acquiring/creating a secondary reflector, to have a double-bulb system.
  Questions;
 1. Is there a special bulb necessary for plant success?
 2. If so, will the special light alone bother my fish, or can I get away
    with just the grow-light?
 3. Will a double-bulb setup (to provide "regular" flourescent light for the 
    fish, if necessary) be too much?
   
 Both of my tanks are well established, with bio-matter for the plants in the 
 gravel. The 10g is housing my betta and an Otto cat, with slow undergravel
 filtration. I have extra-deep gravel, as I have been told that plants in
 an undergravel tank prefer the extra buffering. My 20H has about 20 assorted
 tetras, a clown loach, and a redtailed shark, Powered undergravel and external  box filtration. It, too, has extra-deep gravel. i checked, and despite the 
 powered undergravel, there's lots of bio material in the gravel in there, too.
 
   Do people think that plants are now a possibility in either of these tanks?
   Does the undergravel have to go?
 I am very thankful for any experienced (since I'm not) answers to any of 
 these questions. 
   Thanks.
               Barrett Faneuf
               barrett@nick.csh.rit.edu

  
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: Carlos Eberhardt <eber0005@student.tc.umn.edu>
Subject: algae control fish
X-Xxmessage-Id: <A725FA7F65016517@dialup-slip-1-23.gw.umn.edu>
X-Xxdate: Tue, 10 Nov 92 23:47:11 GMT
Organization:  University of Minnesota
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d12
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 05:49:35 GMT

Hello:
	I haven't posted before, so the format may be all wrong, I apologize.
	My problem: that nasty grey-green hair algae that's about 1/4 inch long.
It's all over everything in my 58 gal tank. I have an 8 inch oscar and a
pleco of about the same size, along with plants. The stuff is too strong
for the pleco to eat, and with my plants, an algicide is out. I've heard
there's an algae-eater out there that CAN eat the stuff, but I don't know
any more than that. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Specifically,
I'd like to know the name of the fish, and whether or not it would
survive with my oscar. You can e-mail me directly at:
eber0005@student.tc.umn.edu
	Thanks.
Carlos Eberhardt                     University of Minnesota, Mpls.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: chenders@nyx.cs.du.edu (christopher henderson)
Subject: bad address
Organization: Nyx, Public Access Unix @ U. of Denver Math/CS dept.
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 92 15:33:08 GMT


the following info did not go through the mailer at my site.
this artical should reach [and be of some use to all in mail order info.

From MAILER-DAEMON@uunet.uu.net Sat Nov  7 10:00:14 1992

Return-Path: <MAILER-DAEMON@uunet.uu.net>

X-Disclaimer: Nyx is a public access Unix system run by the University

of Denver.  The University has neither control over nor

responsibility for the opinions or correct identity of users.

Date: Sat, 7 Nov 92 11:58:28 -0500

From: MAILER-DAEMON@uunet.uu.net (Mail Delivery Subsystem)

Subject: Returned mail: User unknown

To: <chenders@nyx.cs.du.edu>

 

   ----- Transcript of session follows -----

>>> RCPT To:<dmfernan@fajita.engr.ucdavis.edu>

<<< 550 <dmfernan@fajita.engr.ucdavis.edu>... User unknown

550 <dmfernan@fajita.engr.ucdavis.edu>... User unknown

 

   ----- Recipients of this delivery -----

   <dmfernan@fajita.engr.ucdavis.edu>

 

   ----- Unsent message follows -----

Received: from nyx.cs.du.edu by relay1.UU.NET with SMTP 

(5.61/UUNET-internet-primary) id AA16577; Sat, 7 Nov 92 11:58:28 -0500

Received: by nyx.cs.du.edu (4.1/SMI-4.1)

id AA25888; Sat, 7 Nov 92 09:57:43 MST

Date: Sat, 7 Nov 92 09:57:43 MST

From: chenders@nyx.cs.du.edu (christopher henderson)

Message-Id: <9211071657.AA25888@nyx.cs.du.edu>

X-Disclaimer: Nyx is a public access Unix system run by the University

of Denver.  The University has neither control over nor

responsibility for the opinions or correct identity of users.

To: dmfernan@fajita.engr.ucdavis.edu

Subject: Re: (M) Looking for execufish

 

Here is some info foyou on salt water things.

 

There is a magazine and I don't know if you subscribe or can get it at
your local pet store    

local pet stobut here it is: Marine Fish Monthly 1-800-933963

 

 

Coral/Saltwater Soulutions

3933 E. Pima #109

Tuscon, AZ 85712

(602) 881-7442

Fax (602) 881-7463

 

I would stand behind this company on ANY thing you purchase.

John is geared towards quality and disease free specimens. And I don't
think you could beat his prices any whe

you could beat his prices anhere.

 

 

I will most definatly get some replies on this, please be kind, I did not
know any other way to mail this....

Thanks.

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: jimh@ultra.com (Jim Hurley)
Subject: Re: Feeding Fish When On Vacation
Organization: Ultra Network Technologies
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 92 18:05:33 GMT

In <1992Nov12.002542.11789@bsu-ucs> 01mbmccabe@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu writes:

    Christmas break will be comming  shortly after that and lasts for ~4
    weeks....Does anyone besides me think this might be a wee bit long for
    a ~6" Oscar,  ~5" Tinfoil Barb,  and ~5" Pleco to survive unfed in a
    20gal High tank

For these aggressive fish it does sound like a long time.
If you don't want to try those machines, you could try the vacation
feeder blocks. They have a slowly dissolving paste that releases
food over time. The paste looks like cement! It will probably
wreak havoc with your tank chemistry, but might work out.

Otherwise, see if you could get a local store or friend to
accept the fish while you're gone.
-- 
Jim Hurley --> jimh@ultra.com  ...!ames!ultra!jimh  (408) 922-0100
Ultra Network Technologies / 101 Daggett Drive / San Jose CA 95134
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:8679 alt.aquaria:5679
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: (All) Sure-Start
From: btoben@crappie.usd.edu (B. Toben)
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 16:18:54 GMT
Reply-To: btoben@crappie.usd.edu (B. Toben)
Organization: University of South Dakota, Computer Science Dept.


Hi all - 

Today I was reading the November issue of "Tropical Fish Hobbyist" and
noticed on pg. 42 an ad for a product called Sure-Start, made by
Precision Aquarium Testing, Inc.  This product claims to contain living
Nitrosomonas bacteria, and that when used in conjunction with their
Nitrobacter, will INSTANTLY cycle a newly established aquarium, marine
or freshwater.  They have testimonials from many satisfied customers,
but I have a hard time believing any of it.  Does anyone out there have
any firsthand experience with the product, and if so, does it do what
it claims? ( I doubt it!! 8-) )

Thanks.

B. Toben
 

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: Igor Livshits <igorl@uiuc.edu>
Subject: Ugh!
X-Xxmessage-Id: <A7243B03850114C6@spiff.ncsa.uiuc.edu>
X-Xxdate: Mon, 9 Nov 92 21:57:55 GMT
Organization: NCSA
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d12
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 04:13:01 GMT

I just spent a weekend in Chicago and visited a suburban aquarium shop (I
have a reef set-up at home).  I was dismayed to find poorly lit and
overpopulated tanks.  The anemonies all looked sad and were
deteriorating.  There were a few hard corals, but none of these were
expanded.  About the only inverts that were thriving were the shrimp.

The store's idea of low nitrates was "under 40."  Is there an
organization that regulates the invertebrate trade?  Will the Humane
Society intervene?  Or is this within "normal" store bounds?

Thanks, igor
From: biow@cs.umd.edu (chris biow)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: algae control fish
Date: 12 Nov 92 17:20:11 GMT
Organization: U of Maryland, Dept. of Computer Science, Coll. Pk., MD 20742

In article <1992Nov11.210511.13373@ultra.com> jimh@ultra.com (Jim Hurley) writes:

>As a last resort you can try simazine (Algi-gon, etc.). I once tried it
>at half-recommended dosage and it cause hair algae to wilt in a few
>days, but didn't hurt any of my plants. At full strength it might do
>the job very quickly.

My experience with Simazine was a bit more mixed. It did stop the 
algae, though the black beard algae came back quickly. It stopped
the growth of all plants for a while, with more serious effects 
on quick growers like Water Sprite. My previously near-zero 
nitrates shot up.

Use a reduced dosage, I'd say, and then only when unavoidable.
From: oleg@Veritas.COM (Oleg Kiselev)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Killing with Kindness
Date: 11 Nov 92 03:21:35 GMT
Reply-To: oleg@veritas.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Organization: Palo Alto Killifish Loft
X-Disclaimer: I speak for myself only unless explicitly indicated otherwise

cliff@watson.ibm.com (cliff) writes:
>I have a 110 gallon freshwater tropical tank and have been doing
>20% water changes every week.  Someone told me that I should stop
>immeditately as I was overdoing it and could harm the fish.  Any tips?

It's nonsense.  As long as you don't dump chlorinated/chloraminated water
right into the tank, 20%/week is neither excessive nor harmful to *MOST*
fish.  *SOME* fish like their water "well-aged".  You can get around that
by letting the replacement water "age" (really get the gasses like CO2 and
O2 equilibrated with the atmosphere) for a few days in a plastic drum or
a large trashcan. 

If you also do the water change slowly (i.e. at a rate of a few %/hr),
then NO fish will object to it.   
-- 
Don't blame me, I voted Libertarian.

Oleg Kiselev                                             oleg@veritas.com
VERITAS Software                           ...!{apple|uunet}!veritas!oleg