From: p-kun@blacklabel.Japan.Sun.COM (Kevin Parrington - Nihon Sun Logistics)
Newsgroups: alt.surfing
Subject: Re: alt.waves
Date: 17 Aug 92 04:21:33 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Mt. View, Ca.
NNTP-Posting-Host: blacklabel.japan.sun.com

In article <2A8C1490.7050@deneva.sdd.trw.com> kieffer@spf.trw.com (Robert Kieffer) writes:
>start cross-posting there <Evil grin>! ... 'maybe turn it into a group for  
>the sponge-boarders, body surfers, and wind-surfers!
>

	Robert are you suggesting a little "ethnic cleansing" of 
	alt.surfing ???? ;^)  

	I PROTEST !!!!!  

	As one of the few, I think there are three of us, 
	"spongers"/ "bbr's" who post I refuse to be exiled to
	some faggot-assed newsgroup established by God knows who for the
	sole purpose of "waving at people...?" !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


	Gee wiz, I mean...relly.  Gosh, darn.........! Come on,
	be "Bro", bro...!!!!!! ;^)

	Typhoon Kent, unless he changes his ways and his wind
	direction is really going to be a fag of a typhoon....
	Sat and Sun I went out, both days there was an onshore
	blowing(knots unknown).  Sat. was dodge the Jellyfish
	day as it's that time of year.  Sat and Sun both brought
	big waves, over head (faces)...but the wind keep them
	from becoming noteworthy waves.  They rolled in slow
	and huge, very thick waves.

	With this being the weekend of a nat'l holiday were people
	go back to their home of birth and pay respects to their
	dead, Obon, the water was practically empty !!!!!  I surfed
	the mush alone on Sat, me and the Jellyfish, and on Sunday
	there were maybe 8 - 12 people out but conditions kept all
	but three of them in the shorebreak.  Myself and two other
	surfers battled the hellish cross current to get to the
	line up and paddle in place while waiting for waves...
	damn tiring !!!  I caught three from the outside and
	said to hell with it, getting out was too much of a bitch.
	In adition to the current I had to duck-dive everything !
	I got out the last time and as I sat there waiting, surrounded
	by brown water covered in a beige foam I looked out to the 
	horizon for the next set and saw nothing...I then noticed how
	quiet it was compared to the shorebound I had just come through...
	an eerie kind of silence, you know, like something is wrong...
	just as I was contemplating the silence out of nowhere comes this
	big wall of brown foamy water jacking to overhead (face)...
	scared the shit out of me !!!!  I turned and started to paddle 
	to my left leading the white water roll at the top of the wave.
	The white water caught me and spit me out in front of the wave. 
	I just held on and dug my rails trying to keep
	myself from getting "overrun" by the damn thing.  I began to maintain
	control and near the beach when I was meet with a backwash wave...
	airborn and history !!!  Much sand, much water up-the-nose, and the
	usual washing machine routine.  My friends who saw this from the beach
	thought I was history from the start...but then all just laughted when
	I got pounded by the backwash...what are friends for ?!

	Not the wipe-out of my life but a recent one none the less.  I'm
	sure to have a "wipe-out of my life story" when I return from Bali.
	BTW, can someone tell me what "bagus" as in "Bali bagus" means ???

	As usual, the waves are clearing up from the weekend "rollers"
	to some consistent, shapely, set waves, according to my friend who just 
	called  from the beach incouraging me to: "I don't know, just tell
	them anything...!?"(if it were only so easy) and I'm stuck in the 
	office !!!!! :(  

	Since I am "stuck in the office I should do some work....

kp