HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: kiviat@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Brian Kiviat)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Need help with the Oil Pump
Date: 6 Nov 92 19:55:25 GMT
Article-I.D.: oasys.27277
Reply-To: kiviat@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Brian Kiviat)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.autos.tech, ihusain@pyramid.COM (Intisar Husain) writes:
>Over the weekend I replaced the timing chain on my 84 Maxima
>the car started at the first self, but now the Oil Pump doesn't work.
>I have done the following to cure the problem, but without any luck.
>1-      Changed the Oil Pump.
>2-      Checked the Oil Pressure gauge.
>3-      Changed the Oil.
>4-      Filled the Oil Pump with oil and installed it back.

You might try to prime the oil pump. If there is no oil in the impeller
section of the pump, no suction will available to draw oil into the
pump. On my motor, the pump sends the oil first into the filter. I removed
the filter and poured oil down into the feed line from the oil pump.
The oil pump immediately began to work as usual.

   O                                        You don't stop surfing
   I\   Brian Kiviat (301)227-1833          when you grow old,
   I \  kiviat@oasys.dt.navy.mil            you grow old
  /     David Taylor Model Basin            when you stop surfing.
   \___________________________
			     \\
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kenny@osf.org (Kenneth Crudup)
Subject: Re: caliper seizure
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 16:32:57 GMT

In article <13461@limey> sheriffp@Software.Mitel.COM (Peter Sheriff) writes:
>     The caliper was seized so much that WD40, penetrating oil and even
>industrial strength iodine wouldn't free it enough.

Iodine? This is a new one on me. How well does it work as an unseizer?

	-Kenny
-- 
Kenny Crudup, Contractor, OSF DCE QA
OSF, 11 Cambridge Center, Cambridge, MA 02142	+1 617 621 7306
kenny@osf.osf.org			OSF has nothing to do with this post.
	  Religion: The longest-running gag ever played on Mankind.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu (REAL LIFE?!?!  HA!!)
Subject: Re: Electronic ignition?
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 00:41:00 GMT

pauls@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Paul Stafford) writes:

> I am seriously thinking about buying an older Spitfire. Now, after all the
> laughter has subsided, I have a few questions.

>  I have been advised to replface the stock ignition system with an
>  electronic ignition. Does anyone have experience doing this? what 
>  brand/system did you pick, and why?

I have heard a lot of good things about Allison electronic ignition.....

>  Does anyone have any particular experience with this car? Anything to 
>  look out for, or things that should be replaced prophylactically?
>  I'm looking at MkIII or later.

I would say buy an MGB or Midget instead.  I just like them better I guess,
but I do hate the Spitfire for one reason:  Swing axle rear suspension.
The other thing I like better about the MG's is the fact that they have
unibody construction which, though it increases the risk of having a serious
rust problem, makes the car far more rigid and thus fun to drive.  I live in
the Chicago area and my Midget has survived two winters already with no more
care than washing out all the nooks and crannies at least once a week.  Really,
at least test-drive an MG as well as a Spitfire.  I think you will fond it a
much more pleasing car.

>  Also, I was thinking of replacing the stock dual carbs with a single
>  Weber carb. Any experience doing that?

No experience, but I know a few people who have.  DO IT!!  If you have the
money, they are a million times better than the SU's (and in a different 
universe from those hideous Strombergs).

$0.02
-- 
Michael T. Chaffee        |******BOYCOTT COLORADO******|  ______    
mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu | Professional Slapthologist |  \    /     HATE
Member, Universal Life Church, Sect of Loons           |   \  /  can never be
Annoyance Theatre Platinum Member |     Evil Genius    |    \/  a FAMILY VALUE
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: pmwempe@cbnewse.cb.att.com (paul.michael.wempe)
Subject: Re: New Gasoline Ripoff
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 23:30:28 GMT

In article <1992Nov5.135758.20536@mailer.cc.fsu.edu>, sdb@redbeard.physics.fsu.edu (Scott D. Berry) writes:
> 
> You are wrong -- alcohol is more expensive than the gas.
> Remember the actual cost of the gasoline is NOT the ~$1.20
> you pay for it at the station.  My memory tells me that the
> actual cost (out of the refinery) is closer to $.60-$.80/gal.
> (or even less, since there are typically $.30 in taxes).

Here in Illinois some stations sell both the gas+ethanol and
the 100% gass side by side, and the ethanol blend is usually
cheaper (and has an equivalent, but usually higher octane rating)

State variation in tax breaks?

Mike
From: klp@doe.carleton.ca (Ka Lun Pang)
Subject: caliper seizure
Organization: Dept. of Electronics, Carleton University
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 18:48:40 GMT

Hi folks,

It all started with a squeaky back wheel when I back up my car.  The noise
has come and gone and still comes and goes.  Last week I took it to a garge
to switch to the snow tires, the mechanics told me that the caliper on the
left rear wheel was seized.  I touched the rotor and it was HOT comparing 
with the rest and also has a different color.  I told the guy I haven't been
really driving too much this summer and maybe it was just stuck and I asked
him to put some WD40 on the hinges (not the rotor off course) and MAYBE it
will be free again.  He told me it won't help but he put something on anyway.

A few days later, I took it to another shop to replace the clutch :-( so
I asked them to check the caliper again. This time -- it's fine. And I was
happy for a while till a couple days ago I sticked my finger to the rotor
after about half an hour of driving to see if its hot.  I burnt my finger.
The one on the other side was cold though.

I guess my question is, will lack of driving cause caliper seizure?  And will
the WD40 kind of thing free it again?  The squeak during back up is now only
intermittent, do you think it will get better or worse?  Also, is there 
something I should keep an eye (or finger) on before some bad thing happens?

Any input will be appreciated.

regards,
klp
--
Ka Lun  Pang (a.k.a. Andy) - Lost between frequency and time on the unit circle
                      email: klp@doe.carleton.ca 
                               DoD# 0687
                       "I need a vacation"--T2
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: when an engine is broken in
From: erkamp@JANUS.ARC.AB.CA (Bob Erkamp)
Date: 5 Nov 92 11:43:51 MDT
Reply-To: erkamp@JANUS.ARC.AB.CA
Organization: Alberta Research Council

In article <1d7j2nINNdol@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>, cf947@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Chun-Hung Wan) writes:
>
>Can anyone tell me when an engine is considered to be broken in?  Is
>1,000 miles a correct assumption, as the manual says that it would be okay
>to drive over 55mph and maintain a steady speed when that mark has been reached.

The owner's manual should state the break in period. In mine it was 1,000 
kilometers (600 miles).

Bob
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bakc@giraffe.ru.ac.za (MR KR COMAN)
Subject: Re: Coasting with auto tranny's...
Organization: Rhodes University, Grahamstown, South Africa
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 05:59:49 GMT

In article <53110035@hpsgm2.sgp.hp.com> leonglaw@hpsgm2.sgp.hp.com (Lawrence LEONG) writes:
>From: leonglaw@hpsgm2.sgp.hp.com (Lawrence LEONG)
>Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 12:53:23 GMT
>Subject: Re: Coasting with auto tranny's...
>In rec.autos.tech, vbreault@rinhp750.gmr.com (Val Breault) writes:
>|In article <Bx6HyI.FLw@uxa.ecn.bgu.edu> gsu0001@uxa.ecn.bgu.edu (Michael Linden) writes:
>|
>|Additional wear will be incurred while disengaging and reengaging the
>|low speed clutches.  These are normally engaged when the transmission is 
>|put in "drive" and remain engaged until it is put into neutral, park or
>|reverse.
>
>I'm curious, since I drive a manual (auto occasionally).  Is it then kinder 
>on the engine and/or tranny to leave it in gear at the lights?  Will this
>stress the engine/tranny? 
>

Staying with a manual trans....  I'm assuming yr question refers to coming 
to a dead stop at (say) an intersection.  Clutch in, shift back thru 
neutral, and then pushing the gear lever into 1st.  You then sit with the
gearbox in 1st, the engine running, and the clutch pedal depressed until 
yr ready to move off again.

For what it's worth, this technique might not be desirable:
1.
The clutch release bearing is taking all the strain for the duration -- as 
is the clutch cable and clutch-plate springs.  (Maybe this is no big deal, 
but why do it anyway? -- especially if you want to keep the car for a while.)
2.
If yr backed up in traffic or waiting for pedestrians to cross (etc), 
consider the possibility of (a) yr foot slipping off the clutch or (b) some
fella running into the back of yr car and yr foot going off the clutch 
(again).   In either case there is a risk that yr car could jump forwards 
just at a time when you could least afford it.

Don't want to sound like an old granny but I reckon the best technique is:
1.
Stop and gear into neutral, foot off clutch.  Handbrake on.  Footbrake on.
2.
To move off -- clutch in, into 1st, handbrake off, footbrake off etc. 

Like everything on matters of detailed driving technique there's no real
"one size fits all" solution -- what's above is just what works for me and
the way I figured it out driving British-made cars down the years.
Cheers,
Keith Coman

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"Condemning a research report on the basis of :  Dept of Management
 invalid and unreliable methodology is the    :  Rhodes University
 cheapest shot in the book."                  :  Grahamstown, 6140
                                              :  Rep of South Africa
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
From:  (Eric Youngblood)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: new required dyno emissions tests / Re: New Gasoline Ripoff
Date: 9 Nov 92 20:39:32 GMT
Reply-To: Peon w/o EMAIL priv (Eric Youngblood)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Richardson, Tx

In article <ELI.92Nov6123038@regal.cisco.com>, eli@cisco.com (Steve Elias) writes:
|> ravalent@mothra.syr.EDU (Bob Valentine) writes:
|> 
|> Bob, one of the reasons the EPA is forcing us to burn this new fuel in
|> order reduce pollution, is because of people like you who sleaze past
|> the emissions test.  hopefully, the new required dynamometer tests will
|> be able to catch you next time you try sleazing out of getting your
|> motor tuned properly!
|> 
|> /eli
|> 

Anyone who drives a internal combustion powered vehicle contributes to the
world emmisions.  I am tired of all of this old car bashing as if they are
the ills to the Earth's atmospheric woes.  If you drive you pollute.  Not
to mention polution and energy consumed to manufacture.  The argument that
new cars dont pollute as much therefore they are ok doesnt help emissions as
we just build millions more of them.  Until cars stop using fossil fuels 
they will pollute.  So any finger pointing gets us nowhere, we just need to
continue moving towards zero-emission vehicles. The old cars will die natural
deaths or be restored by enthusiasts.  Either case, they wont be driven every
day.


$0.02
Ericy
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sontakke@helix.enet.dec.com (Vikas Sontakke)
Subject: Sudden and Drastic Drop in Gas Mileage
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 13:28:33 GMT


I am experiencing a drastic and very sudden drop in the gas mileage (i.e. from
30's into 20's).  I have not done anything to the car recently.  The oil was
changed 1.5K miles ago, spark plugs were changed around 4K miles.  The
driveability and the performance of the car has not changed a bit.  There is
NO smoke, NO smell.  Choke opens as it should when the car warms up.

The weather has become very cold in this part of the country.  But few extra
minutes of warm-up does not explain such a drop in the mileage.

All tune-up components (such as plugs, cap, rotor, wires etc) are new or nearly
new.  The mileage of the car has always dropped in the winter months (from 30 to
27) but since last tankful, every time I start the car, I swear the gas needle
loses a tick or two.

Since the car had been running pretty decently, I do not want to mess with it
much.  Besides it is freezing out there to take a wrench.

I will be switching gas stations to rule out bad gas.  However, I can't see how
the car can start drinking the gasoline by gallons (last 300 miles) and not
change its performance or driveability by an iota.  Gas is not leaking and it is
not being siphoned off.  Nothing else can explain this drop.

For crying out loud, my other car, Taurus SHO got 27.5 miles on its last 1400
miles trip!  

(car is 83 Honda Prelude, 115K miles, carburated, KNOCK_ON_THE_WOOD-> runs as
 nice as it did when it was new <-KNOCK_ON_THE_WOOD)

{ Kenny Crudup, are you listening??? }

Vikas Sontakke		Digital Equipment Corporation, Maynard MA.
Internet:		sontakke@helix.enet.dec.com
    uucp:		{decvax,ucbvax,allegra}!decwrl!helix.enet!sontakke
			sontakke%helix.enet@decwrl.dec.com
From: andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Coasting with auto tranny's...
Date: 10 Nov 92 19:49:03 GMT
Organization: Brandeis University

In article <53110036@hpsgm2.sgp.hp.com> leonglaw@hpsgm2.sgp.hp.com (Lawrence LEONG) writes:
>In rec.autos.tech, ilh@lcs.mit.edu (Lee Hetherington) writes:
>
>|In article <Bx91Ev.91p.1@cs.cmu.edu>
>|rudis+@cs.cmu.edu (Rujith S DeSilva) writes:
>|   On an automatic car, can one shift into drive while the car is
>|   moving?  Would it damage the transmission?
>|
>|You would really kill your transmission if, when shifting from drive
>|to neutral, you overshot neutral and hit reverse!
>
>That's if you press that little button on the shifter.  On the few times I

>On column shifts, I believe you have to pull/push to go from neutral to

The truth is:
    1) its not too hard to do; column shifts let you go anywhere once
you pull, floor shifter buttons only stop you from getting 2-1 instead
of D.  At least that was the case in my father's '65 442 and my
mother's 76 Volvo 244.

    2) It only stalls the engine if you happen to get into the
reverse.  I decided to coast down a hill (yes, its illegal) and after
I reached 35mph, I went to put it back into D and went to R.  Stalled
the engine.  At least that was the case in my father's '65 442.

-andy
From: jxs18@po.CWRU.Edu (Jerry Sy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: removing a glass mount antenna
Date: 9 Nov 1992 03:44:00 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: jxs18@po.CWRU.Edu (Jerry Sy)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


Is it still possible to remove a glass mount antenna ? the instructions
seems to indicate that once the antenna is sticked on the glass, it is
permanent.

any ideas ?

thanks in advance.

jerry

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dennis@mr2.ece.cmu.edu (Dennis J. Ciplickas)
Subject: Winter Oil Change
Organization: Carnegie Mellon University
Distribution: rec
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 18:53:59 GMT


I've just been told by my dealership that I should change the oil in
my '75 MB 240D to 15W-40 for the winter time.  I currently run 20W-50.
Despite all of the discussion about oil on this group, I don't recall
anyone ever saying they periodically changed the weight of the oil in
their car (e.g., every winter).  Is there any problem doing this?

Note: When I do an oil change I change the filter and I warm up the
car first to let the oil thin out a bit, so I think I'm getting MOST
of the old oil OUT of the engine.

Thanks for any help,
Dennis
From: frank@marvin.contex.com (Frank Perdicaro)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Recommendations for one-man brake bleeding tools?
Keywords: hydraulic brake fluid bleeding
Date: 11 Nov 92 15:00:02 GMT
Organization: Xyvision Design Systems

In article <5889@airs.com> andrew@airs.com (Andrew Evans) writes:
>Hi net.motorheads,
>
>I need a tool that will allow me to bleed my brakes without an
>assistant to pump the brake pedal.  

Yeah, I though about this for too long.  Finally, I went out and got
one of those hand pump things.  What a pain.  But then, I modified it
but using some of the provided accessories, and it works great.

I bought 15' of small vac hose, and ran it from an available vac port
to the guage port on the gizmo.  Start the car, and you have infinite
vac with no drawback.  Brake fluid goes in to the cup; follow the rest
of the directions provided.  The one other accessory you might want is
a spring loaded clamp so you can clamp this whole assembly to
something like the axle, disk, or fender and have zero-hand operation.

Much much much better than anything else I have ever heard of or seen.

Total cost is about $70.  Expected lifetime with occasional use is
indefinite.  Check the CAP and AutoPalace chains locally for all the
parts.
-- 
	 Frank E Perdicaro, Systems Admin, etc.		Xyvision Color Systems
      Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.		101 Edgewater Drive
   inhouse: frank@marvin, x5572				Wakefield MA
outhouse: frank@contex.com, 617-245-4100x5572		018801285
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: cka52397@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Slartibartfast)
Subject: Re: What is current wisdom on rotating tires (tyres)?
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 00:16:05 GMT

In article <1992Nov4.205441.26521@cbnews.cb.att.com> shahrukh_merchant@att.com writes:
>I have heard two schools of thought on whether tires should be rotated:
>
>   1. Front to Back only, so tires that start out on one side (left or
>      right) always stay there, or:
>   2. Front to back as well as diagonally, so that a tire ends up in all
>      4 positions eventually.
>
>(Forget about the complication of a spare, for the moment.)
>
>This is for a sub-compact front-wheel drive (Toyota Tercel) with all-
>weather radials.
>
>What is the wisdom of the net?
>
>Shahrukh Merchant
>shahrukh_merchant@att.com

The best way to rotate tires  is always diagonally, so all tires wear evenly,
which is the purpose of rotating tires anyway.  If they stayed on the same side
the tires might not wear evenly on each side.  This I know is true for FWD, but
we own a RWD car that undergoes the same rotation.
-- 
***RUSH***YES***FLOYD***PEARLJAM***METALLICA***STING***PAULSIMON***REM***U2***
*"Today is Pearl Harbor Day!"  <= George Herbert Walker Bush Sept. 7, 1988 ;>*
*"We Fight the Fires, While We're Feeding the Flames" <= RUSH "Second Nature"*
*******(c-amin1@uiuc.edu)***Chintan Amin***UniversityofIllinois***GoIllini****
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ehawrysh@bnr.ca (Evan Hawrysh)
Subject: Re: '83 Volvo diesel. HEEEEELLLLLLLPPPPPP.....
Reply-To: ehawrysh@bnr.ca
Organization: Bell Northern Research Ltd
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 92 19:26:13 GMT

If it was an unusally cold night (unusual in terms of the season), perhaps
it is your fuel. Most service stations use two grades of diesel, winter and
summer, and switch when the appropriate weather approaches. If you had summer
diesel, it is quite conceivable that it gelled up, preventing you from starting
it. Try some methyl hydrate (fuel-line anti-freeze) and try starting it on
a warmer day. Whups! I see you're in TX. Forget everything I just said.

BTW, this would be a problem around -15C (about 0F).

Evan

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kelley@cwis.unomaha.edu (Sean Kelley)
Subject: Re: Need help with the Oil Pump
Organization: University of Nebraska at Omaha
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 13:47:35 GMT

ihusain@pyramid.COM (Intisar Husain) writes:


>Over the weekend I replaced the timing chain on my 84 Maxima
>(L-24 engine), without taking out the cylinder head, and 
>Oil Pan.  As far as I understand every thing went fine, and
>the car started at the first self, but now the Oil Pump doesn't work.

How can you tell that it is not working?....
	No pressure according to the gauge?....check the gauge
	A funny grinding sound comeing from the engine and pistons and
engine pieces shooting out of the hood and tail pipe?....buy a new car

>By the way before I found out that Oil Pump is not working, there was
>already 8 minute of engine idle running was done on the car. Now I am
>little worried, what else could have gone wrong. By the way temperature
>of the car was cold durring the idling, But some weird noises,
>proabily because of dry timing chain. I think I am too optemistic.

Well, lets see, No oil=friction,    Friction = BAD , BAD = BOOOOM!!!

BOOOOM!!!= no more engine, .....clear enough?

--
	    ________________-----------------_____________
            \                                            /
             \  SEAN KELLEY    KELLEY@CWIS.UNOMAHA.EDU  / 
              ------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ppa@col.hp.com (Paul Austgen)
Subject: Re: Power steering problem
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 16:38:40 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division

If you have eliminated the PS pump (pressure check), then the
problem is probably the valve in the rack tower going out.  It
swells after it warms up and seems okay, but will perform poorly
when cold.  It is usually best to buy an entire rebuilt unit,
rather than trying to rebuild just this part yourself.

Paul

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: tgl@slee01.srl.ford.com (Tom Leone)
Subject: Re: Lunk, lunk, lunk -- wheel bearings?
Organization: Ford Motor Company Scientific Research Labs, Dearborn, MI
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 17:00:53 GMT

eliot@chutney.rtp.dg.com (Topher Eliot) writes:
: My 80 Civic with 100K miles has started making a little lunk, lunk, lunk
: sound when turn I left through an intersection (i.e. at greater than driveway
: speed).  As I recall this is a sign of wheel bearings starting to go.  True?

No, it's probably your CV (Constant Velocity) joints (since the noise
happens only when you are turning).  Wheel bearings generally make more
noise at higher speeds.  The CV joints are in the "half-shafts"
(driveshafts), covered by rubber "accordion" boots.  Kneel down and
take a look--chances are that one or more of the rubber boots have
cracked, allowing grit into the CV joint grease.  
: 
: If so, do I need to worry about it?  Is there any reason not to just let it
: go until it becomes really obvious?  Will my wheel come off and leave me
: dramatically stuck in the middle of an intersection (not to mention having
: an interesting effect on the underside of my car :-)

I drove mine for about 10,000 miles.  The noise kept getting worse,
and happened even on gentle curves.  I suspect if you let it go too
long, you might snap the whole joint and the spinning driveshaft
could do serious damage under there.

When I did this, the standard repair was to replace the entire
half-shaft (~$150 parts).  The job wasn't too hard, except for
getting the #%$!* ball joints to come apart.  

Good luck,
Tom Leone <tgl@slee01.srl.ford.com>