HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: ceci@lysator.liu.se (Cecilia Henningsson)
Subject: Re: northern gardeners' magazine - such a thing?
Organization: Lysator Academic Computer Society, Linkoping University, Sweden
Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1992 17:56:18 GMT

brighid@bass.lkw.com (Brighid) writes:
>I've been happy to see several posts from northern gardeners -
>Sweden, Alberta and one reference to Manitoba. Now, I'm not
>that far north (New Hampshire, US) but I still think of
>myself as a northerner gardener.

>Are there any reference works or magazine aimed at northern
>gardeners? Or ideally, northern gardeners with bad hilly land?
>It's so dissapointing to read something in a magazine or catalog
>and then find out that the plant or technique doesn't stand
>a prayer.

There are reference works for colder climates, but they tend to be in
Swedish. :) If you can read Swedish, I can get you some ISBN numbers
for books. Be warned however, even if the climate might be very
similar, the light conditions aren't. Ever heard of daylight neutral
varieties of some vegetables? That's what you need if you have
midnight sun in July. There is no Swedish gardening magazine. :(

>This winter's stats: February: 8 feet of frost (I know, we had to
>put in a new well then and I saw the frost.)
>First weekend in May: at least 6 inches of frost (I was digging
>a drainage ditch).

You didn't do it manually, did you?

--Ceci

--
=====ceci@lysator.liu.se===========================================
"Vad bryr vi oss om tsaren, se staren, se staren!"     EA Karlfeldt
(What do we care about the tsar, see the starling, the starling!)
===================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: kgo@comm.wang.com (Kirk Olsen)
Subject: Re: SURVEY RESULTS: Retail Horticultural Expertise
Organization: Wang Labs
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 92 13:09:24 GMT

>
> deleted - interesting survey results.
>

I'm definitely blessed with a good nursery in the area.
  - The staff is rarely, if ever, under the age of 20
  - everyone on the staff has the trademark - holstered clippers.
  - good information is available from nearly all the staff.
  - they carry a wide range of plants, in good shape
  - they have a screen top pergola over the plants that like shade, it's
     nice to see plants kept properly

For those in north eastern Massachussetts - try Corliss Brothers
 in Ipswich.  The prices are higher (about 20%) but they probably 
 have what you want, know what it is, and it is in good shape.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: drogers@epcot.spdc.ti.com (Daty Rogers)
Subject: Re: mowed grass clippings
Organization: TI Semiconductor Process and Design Center
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 13:45:50 GMT

In article <BvDIMM.Bq0@well.sf.ca.us> lp@well.sf.ca.us (Lily Pond) writes:
>
>
>I've been saving my mowed grass clippings for a month or so now and I now
>have filled an entire garbage can. What do I do with it?

   You need to not collect them by getting a mulching blade and let the
clippings stay on the lawn. The clippings you have you can compost (how
boring 8^) OR pick a location for a new flower/whatever bed and turn the 
clippings in the dirt. By next spring, the bed will be charged and ready
for planting! I steal my neighboors clippings (except those that use Chem-
Lawn) and make new beds all the time. A Few months of clippings rototilled
in and the bed is ready to grow huge whatevers.
                                                       Daty
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: lp@well.sf.ca.us (Lily Pond)
Subject: mowed grass clippings
Organization: Whole Earth 'Lectronic Link
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 04:18:22 GMT



I've been saving my mowed grass clippings for a month or so now and I now
have filled an entire garbage can. What do I do with it?
From: mcelwre@cnsvax.uwec.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: BIOLOGICAL ALCHEMY
Date: 6 Oct 92 17:55:10 -0600
Organization: University of Wisconsin Eau Claire

          

                            BIOLOGICAL TRANSMUTATIONS

               A very simple experiment can demonstrate (PROVE) the 
          FACT of "BIOLOGICAL TRANSMUTATIONS" (reactions like Mg + O 
          --> Ca, Si + C --> Ca, K + H --> Ca, N2 --> CO, etc.), as 
          described in the BOOK "Biological Transmutations" by Louis 
          Kervran, [1972 Edition is BEST.], and in Chapter 17 of the 
          book "THE SECRET LIFE OF PLANTS" [see Footnote] by Peter 
          Tompkins and Christopher Bird, 1973: 

               (1) Obtain a good sample of plant seeds, all of the same 
                   kind.  [Some kinds might work better that others.]

               (2) Divide the sample into two groups of equal weight 
                   and number.

               (3) Sprout one group in distilled water on filter paper 
                   for three or four weeks.

               (4) Separately incinerate both groups.

               (5) Weigh the residue from each group.  [The residue of 
                   the sprouted group will usually weigh at least 
                   SEVERAL PERCENT MORE than the other group.]

               (6) Analyze quantitatively the residue of each group for 
                   mineral content.  [Some of the mineral atoms of the 
                   sprouted group have been TRANSMUTED into heavier 
                   mineral elements by FUSING with atoms of oxygen, 
                   hydrogen, carbon, nitrogen, etc..]

          
               BIOLOGICAL TRANSMUTATIONS occur ROUTINELY, even in our 
          own bodies.
          
               Ingesting a source of organic silicon (silicon with 
          carbon, such as "horsetail" extract, or radishes) can SPEED 
          HEALING OF BROKEN BONES via the reaction Si + C --> Ca, (much 
          faster than by merely ingesting the calcium directly).  
          
               Some MINERAL DEPOSITS in the ground are formed by micro-
          organisms FUSING together atoms of silicon, carbon, nitrogen, 
          oxygen, hydrogen, etc..
          
               The two reactions Si + C <--> Ca, by micro-organisms, 
          cause "STONE SICKNESS" in statues, building bricks, etc..  
          
               The reaction N2 --> CO, catalysed by very hot iron, 
          creates a CARBON-MONOXIDE POISON HAZARD for welder operators 
          and people near woodstoves (even properly sealed ones).
          
               Some bacteria can even NEUTRALIZE RADIOACTIVITY! 
          

               ALL OF THESE THINGS AND MORE HAPPEN, IN SPITE OF the 
          currently accepted "laws" of physics. 



          Footnote: Chapters 19 and 20 are about "RADIONICS".
                    ENTIRE BOOK is FASCINATING!



               UN-altered REPRODUCTION and DISSEMINATION of this 
          IMPORTANT Information is ENCOURAGED.


                                   Robert E. McElwaine
                                   B.S., Physics and Astronomy, UW-EC
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: BIOLOGICAL ALCHEMY
Date: 7 Oct 92 01:53:49 GMT
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

>                                    B.S., Physics and Astronomy, UW-EC

Well, the BS seems to fit.   Who needs some high-test organic fertilizer???

Kay
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: reynold@binah.cc.brandeis.edu
Subject: Re: Fruitflies
Reply-To: reynold@binah.cc.brandeis.edu
Organization: Brandeis University
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 20:02:33 GMT

In article <fh11.717783251@sol>, fh11@sol.acs.unt.edu (Brozovic Douglas) writes:
>
>Surely there are some veterans who have waged successful wars against these
>little trouble makers?  :-)
>
People I know who work with fruitflys in the laboratory use a little 
container of vinegar to attract them and then they fall in and drown.

Works for me.

Susan
From: Ecology Center <ecologycntr@igc.apc.org>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Date: 29 Sep 92 09:33 PDT
Subject: Re: How to get rid of mint plant
Nf-ID: #R:1a828hINN8tu@grapevine.ebay.sun.:-92965574:cdp:1453300089:000:450
Nf-From: cdp.UUCP!ecologycntr    Sep 29 09:33:00 1992


Aside from Roundup, I've had medium luck with watering the soil
well, then pulling every last little bit of mint out of the ground
two days later. Repeat this process every two weeks, and you'll be
on top of the stuff within two months.  The advantage of this
method, aside from the arguable hazards of exposure to Roundup
you'll avoid, is that you get to make tons of mint tea to drink
while you relax after a hard day of weeding your roses!

chris

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: fh11@sol.acs.unt.edu (Brozovic Douglas)
Subject: Re: Fruitflies
Organization: University of North Texas
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 16:14:11 GMT

aab@cichlid.com (Andy Burgess) writes:

>In <sam.1ly0@terapin.com> sam@terapin.com (Sam Lewit) writes:

>>But I've got a new problem...fruitflies in the house. They look like your
                               ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

My wife and I have been having trouble with these little darlings for two
years!!  We have tried Diazinon in the dirt, Malithion (sp ?) and a 
Pyrethrin based indoor-outdoor insect spray...all to no avail.  We even
moved from Ohio to Texas and they still persist :-)


>>typical fly, except they are much smaller. They are mainly in the kitchen and
>>the bathroom. I have cleaned both rooms up and down using bleach and pine
>>cleanser. There is NO exposed food anywhere in either room. I am having to take
>>the garbage out immediately. All the trash cans are outside. With all this,
>>they still persist.

>Are they fungus gnats? The ones I've seen are black and they are about
>fruit fly size. Try letting your potted plants dry a little more
                 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

We have tried this as well, but they seem to be undaunted...Any ideas...my
wife is so mad that she is ready to toss our plants out the window...     


>between waterings.

>Then again maybe it really is fruit flys -- prehaps a banana has fallen
>behind the fridge?

>Andy
>-- 
>==============================================================================
>Andrew A. Burgess            aab@cichlid.com              voice (408) 335 4779
>==============================================================================

Surely there are some veterans who have waged successful wars against these
little trouble makers?  :-)

Thanks in advance
Douglas Brozovic
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Bulb suggestions
Date: 28 Sep 92 12:22:21 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

chrisda@atlantis.CS.ORST.EDU (David Christensen) writes:
> I'm looking for suggestions for bulbs to plant this fall.  I live in mild
> Western Oregon (zone 6) and have some prime space just opened up in a new
> flower bed in the front yard (fairly sunny, well-prepared soil).  Having
> gone the tulip/daffodil/bearded iris route already, I'm looking for some
> interesting, possibly more delicate/unusual bulbs.  I've had something
> called the "lenten rose" recommended for one.  I already have dwarf dutch
> irises, and I *really* like those.  Any other ideas?

Grab up a copy of Rix & Phillips _Bulbs_, a photographic book reissued
by Random House, though it is a reprint of an earlier Pan paperback.  You'll
get ALL sorts of ideas just browsing through.   For starters, I'd suggest some
of the species tulips, crocus and iris, since you've got the basics down
already for these genera.  In general, the species are much more delicate
in appearance (though they may be tougher in terms of their environmental
tolerances.)  Or as an answering machine message from a colleague asked
last week, "WHY would people want to grow those overbearing, overbred
tulips when there are species tulips????" (I'd loaned her Rix & Phillips
and a McClure and Zimmerman catalog).

I'm also inordinately fond of the "minor bulbs" -- squills, snowdrops, 
crocus, fritillaria, etc.  A blue and white carpet of squills and 
snowdrops under a blooming Hamamelis vernalis is my idea of "oh, wow!!!".

Have fun!  Get some of the semi-specialist catalogs like McClure & Zimmerman,
John Scheepers, Dutch Gardens, and enjoy!

Kay Klier  Biology Dept  UNI
From: morrell@trcsun3.eas.asu.edu (Darryl Morrell)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Grubs in Compost (was Re: Compost question)
Date: 28 Sep 92 16:34:00 GMT
Article-I.D.: ennews.1992Sep28.163400.18491
Organization: Arizona State University

In article <1992Sep24.224512.810@calmasd.prime.com> jhb@calmasd.prime.com (Jim Bishop) writes:
>And a compost question of mine: does anyone else have the huge grubs
>that are the size of your thumb in the compost pile?  (Maybe these are
>what you are talking about above.)  I think they come from the one
>inch square green metalic looking beetles we get in the late summer. 

According to the book "Desert Gardening" by George Brookbank (an
extremely useful book if you are trying to garden in the Arizona
desert), the insect you describe is a Green Fruit Beetle.  Brookbank
claims that they voraciously attack late summer fruit like peaches,
grapes, and figs.  This time of year, I find four or five of the grubs
at every turning of the compost pile.  I usually squash them; they are
big enough that this is a thoroughly disgusting process.

Darryl Morrell
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: asente@adobe.com (A Usenet Pal)
Subject: What is it (red shrub)
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 06:00:07 GMT

Yet another entry in the "what is it?" sweepstakes...

This time we have a shrub.  The one I saw was about 3' tall and 4' diameter.
Branches are quite straight and quite red.  Leaves about 1" long, rounded
where they are attached and pointed at the other end.  The top is deep green,
the bottom silvery, but both sides with a reddish cast.  They appear in pairs
opposite each other on the stem.  Currently (on San Francisco peninsula)
bearing many white tubular flowers.  Immature flower buds are between two
small reddish leaf like things.  There is one flower bud between each leaf
and the stem, except near the tips of branches, where there is a cluster.

More mature stems have smaller stems branching out at each pair of leaves
instead of a flower bud.  A branch looks something like this:

        |
       \|/
      \ | /
     \ \|/ /
    \ \ | / /
     \ \|/ /
      \ | /
       \|/
        |

although the angle is closer to 45 degrees.  Each pair of branches is
coplanar with the main stem, but alternating pairs are offset by about
20 degrees.  So if you looked at a branch from the end, it would look like

  \    /
   \  /
    \/
    /\
   /  \
  /    \

One pair of branches will be under one stroke of the X, the next under
the other, the next approximately lined up with the first, the next lined up
with the second, and so forth.

Any ideas?  We really want to plant some of this!

Also, does anyone have any experience germinating California Wild Honeysuckle
berries?  We have one that is currently looking quite lovely climbing through
an old fence and would like to plant some more.

__   -paul asente
\/     asente@adobe.com   ...decwrl!adobe!asente   moo-bear@cs.stanford.edu

Feminism:  a socialist, anti-family political movement
           that encourages women to leave their husbands, kill their
           children, practice witchcraft, destroy capitalism and
           become lesbians.			-Pat Robertson
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: slw@odin.icd.ab.com (Shoshana L. Wodzisz)
Subject: Re: Office plants?
Keywords: office plants
Organization: Allen-Bradley Company, Inc.
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 16:29:11 GMT

In article <Roger.Duvall.4.0@AtlantaGA.NCR.COM> Roger.Duvall@AtlantaGA.NCR.COM (Roger Duvall) writes:
>I think I would like to grow something on my desk.  It has to be small 
>because I don't have enough desk space as it is.  It has to grow well under 
>two flourescent bulbs.  There are no windows nearby -- typical office 
>atmosphere.  I want something special.  Any suggestions?

What do you mean by "It has to grow well under two flourscent bulbs"?
If they're on the ceiling, I don't have a definite suggestion.
If they're under a shelf shining on your desk - VIOLETS !! Mine love it !

--
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  Shoshana L. Wodzisz @ Allen-Bradley Company, Cleveland Ohio
  ... !{cwjcc, uunet}!icd.ab.com.slw
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: moroney@ramblr.enet.dec.com
Subject: Re: Hyperaccumulators?
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 05:21:43 GMT

In article <1992Oct6.231520.20515@cs.rochester.edu>, dietz@cs.rochester.edu (Paul Dietz) writes...
> 
>I just was reading a bit about some plants that are
>"hyperaccumulators": they concentrate normally toxic metals in their
>tissue to an amazing extent (for example, plants that grow on soils
>derived from ultramafic rocks that concentrate nickel in their leaves
>to > 3% of their dry weight).  Are there any plants normally grown in
>gardens that are hyperaccumulators?

This one's rather iffy, but I read that tobacco bioaccumulates polonium, and
the radioactive polonium is one reason that smoking causes cancer, and I
have heard of people growing ornamental tobacco of some sort.

-Mike
From: JBrandt@AAA.UOregon.EDU (Laurie E. W. Brandt)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Medieval Gardens
Date: 1 Oct 92 16:11:18 GMT
Organization: The Polyhedron Group

Help I live in a small apartment now so my garding must be confined to a
few pots on my porch, reading, and desiging gardens.  I am looking for
everything I can on:
		a. The design of medieval gardens,
  b. The plants uses fruits, vegtibles as well as herbs. 
      Are any of these verities still grown? 
						if so where are the seeds available?
  c. Source texts that deal with the art of Gardening.

Thanks
Laurie E. W. Brandt
--You never get to green without going through alot of brown-- :-)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: ceci@lysator.liu.se (Cecilia Henningsson)
Subject: Is tea good for a compost pile? (Was: Is coffee good for a compost pile?)
Organization: Lysator Academic Computer Society, Linkoping University, Sweden
Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1992 17:47:22 GMT

>In article <1992Sep22.172441.15022@vax5.cit.cornell.edu>
>dq7j@vax5.cit.cornell.edu writes:
>>I'm in charge of making coffee for a large group of people every week and
>>usually there is a large surplus of it at the end of the meeting (I'm working
>>on reducing the surplus). My question is: can I use this leftover
>>coffee for my
>>compost pile ? (unfortunately I don't drink coffee at home). I've
>>read that the
>>solid waste is good for the compost and I'm already using it but I
>>haven't read about the liquid part.

beb@pt.com (Bruce Buck) writes:
>I routinely dump leftover coffee, the grounds and the filter into the compost
>heap.  I'm of the opinion that anything remotely organic can go into the pile.

I was told that tea leaves (from the tea bush) shouldn't be added, as
they tend to contain lots of heavy metals (is that the English word?)
such as lead and cadmium. Does anyone know more?

--Ceci
--
=====ceci@lysator.liu.se===========================================
"Convictions cause convicts."          First catma of Discordianism
"But don't let that become a conviction!"              Ceci's lemma
===================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: fred@mks.com (Fred Kratky)
Subject: Re: huge Bonsai (was: Tipuana tipu)
Organization: Mortice Kern Systems Inc., Waterloo, Ontario, CANADA
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 12:50:25 GMT

In article <23839@sybase.sybase.com> karenp@sybase.com (Karen Paulsell) writes:
>
>I've often thought that it would be interesting to do bonsia at
>the large end of the scale: instead of the tiny dwarfs in miniature
>pots, to use, say 5-10 gallon sizes.  If I recall correctly from
>my days of bonsai-curiousity, this is still within the scope of
>traditional bonsia, though most are the much smaller varieties.
>
>These techniques could yeild marvellously varied potted patio-
>specimens. The traditional bonsai techniques, applied to a 
>dwarf citrus, for example, might yeild a beuutiful tree that
>would produce a usable one-household amount of fruit. 

I just came back from a business trip in France.  While there I had a
chance to walk though the grounds of the palace at Versailles.  There
was one "garden" full of such plants (all tropicals which needed to be
indoors in the winter) in pots ranging from one to three cubic feet in
size.  Several of the citruis trees were in fruit.
-- 
     ||  // // ,'/~~\'   Fred Kratky		fred@mks.com 
    /||/// //|' `\\\     Mortice Kern Systems Inc.     (519) 884-2251
   / | //_// ||\___/     35 King St. N., Waterloo, Ont., Can. N2J 2W9
0_/                       
Newsgroups: rec.gardens,misc.rural
From: shoaf@helix.nih.gov (Susan E. Shoaf)
Subject:  Composting
Organization: (National Institutes of Health, Bethesda, MD)
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 18:58:52 GMT



Reprinted from Science magazine, 11 Sept, without authorization.  All typos are
mine.

COMPOSTING: HEALTHY FERMENT

For those environmentally conscious people who throw their uneaten french 
fries and biodegradable plastics into a compost heap in the backyard or send
them to a municipal composter, Jeffrey Eberhard has good news: Composting is
safe.  Eberhard, a chemist at the Univ. of Cincinnati, was hired by the city
of Cincinnati to determine if composting is a safe alternative to putting waste
in a landfill.  The City fathers were worried: Besides household garbage, 
municipal compost facilities generally accept yard waste, which often contains
pesticides, and sewage sludge, which can have heavy metals from industrial 
facilities.  Could this brew turn hazardous as it breaks down?

After mixing a variety of compost "recipes" and testing them for both organic
and inorganic hazards, Eberhard give composting a clean bill of health.  The
metals generally seep throughout the mixture and become bound to other compounds
that neutralize their threat, he says, and the pesticides get broken down into
much safer materials.  Backyard composting should be safer, Eberhard reports,
since household piles don't contain sewage sludge.

Even a taste of backyard compost, such a small child might try, should be
relatively harmless, Eberhard says.  In a compost pile made up of yard waste
and household garbage, the levels of harmful chemicals and microbes known to 
be able to infect humans were below the level of detection. It's good to know
that in a world where everything seem to cause cancer or harm the environment,
 it's still possible to pile up some leaves and banana peels in the backyard
without worrying about it.  --Robert Pool

Susan
shoaf@clinpharm.niaaa.nih.gov

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: aab@cichlid.com (Andy Burgess)
Subject: Re: ants!
Organization: SIlma Inc.
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 1992 18:43:18 GMT

In <3742@ra.nrl.navy.mil> nrlfs1.nrl.navy.mil (Judy Karpen) writes:

>In article <lc4nqmINN1fo@exodus.Eng.Sun.COM>, hesed@shekinah.Eng.Sun.COM (Michael Brumm) writes:
>> 
>> Does anyone have ideas on how to control large ant populations?  [stuff deleted]
>> 
>>
>I also tried putting a ring of cayenne pepper around
>the base of the plants, but I don't think I used enough (and the coverage wasn't
>good because the mulch down there was rough). I had used that trick to try and keep
>ants off a hummingbird feeder (they climbed up the wire stand), and it actually
>worked --- for a day or two. 

I have sucessfully used tanglefoot to keep ants out of hummingbird
feeders. Perhaps this would work if you have small numbers of plants
to protect and they don't mind having it smeared on their stalks.
Or put a barrier around the plants and run a line of tanglefoot
along the edge. I've also read that thick grease (like axel grease)
works as well as tanglefoot but I haven't tried it. Someone once
claimed that medicated vasaline (sp) worked for ants on hummingbird
feeders but it only worked for about a day for me.

Andy
-- 
==============================================================================
Andrew A. Burgess            aab@cichlid.com              voice (408) 335 4779
==============================================================================