HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jmm2948@zeus.tamu.edu (Jeffrey M. Mayzurk)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Golf/Jetta Stress Bar Review....
Date: 10 Apr 92 05:19:00 GMT
Organization: Texas A&M University, Academic Computing Services
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <qsyyiB1w164w@cellar.org>, blu@cellar.org (Dan Reed) writes...
> 
>   I have installed my newish/used Foltul upper tie/strut bar (monti-
>carlo bar) on my 89 Golf.  I got it from John Cobb (fellow USENETer),
>he got it for his Jetta, which has a defficant(sp) tank (German
>Wolfsburg model), and the bar will not fit his car.  He said that his
>friend also got one, and put in his GTI, his friend however had to
>modify part of the underside of the hood to make it fit.  I have to
>agree (mine DOES fit) if you are NOT careful where you place it (1/8"
>counts!) you will have a problem.  Its a TIGHT fit.

[miraculous handling claims omitted]

>$89 or so, NeuSpeed also makes one ($100), but this one looks ALOT
>stronger.  However, I believe the NeuSpeed one comes with better docs,
>and parts.  This one while stronger, looks more "home made" with
>simple welds, and a nice gloss black finish.  As I said, I got this
>unit used, so it came with no bolts/directions (nothing the local
>hardware store could not handle), so as a "total package" I cannot
>give a review.

Yes, the upper stress bar is a very good upgrade for most VW's and it will
definitely improve the 'feel' of your car.  However, it doesn't really do that
much for the handling, as far as numbers go.  By minimizing body flex, and
consequently camber changes, handling and grip are slightly improved, but not
enough for most people to really notice.  It will make a big difference in
the way the car feels, and the way a car feels is just as important as how
it performs quantitatively.  

If you have an earlier A1 car, buy the lower stress bar first -- it will make
the most difference.  The upper bar is a good upgrade, but I would suggest
swaybars and shocks/springs first.  If you have already upgraded the rest of
your suspension, it's a good finishing touch.  Additionally, for those of us
who like to use our sport suspensions, you might notice some cracking around
the upper strut mounts -- if you do, the stress bar will prevent this from
getting any worse.

However, I cannot recommend Flotul parts.  Their quality seems to be
consistently lower than other manufacturers, and their prices are not much
lower.  For example, the Neuspeed upper stress bar is only $79.95, not $100.
And trust me, it is just as strong, if not stronger, and the quality is much
better.  If you have a choice, buy Neuspeed products -- you will not be
disappointed.  I have heard horror stories about Flotul's welds breaking, etc..
I would avoid them if possible.


Jeffrey M. Mayzurk

jmm2948@zeus.tamu.edu
From: mjh@cs.utexas.edu (Michael J. Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: I've got that nasty white oil stuff too!
Date: 16 Apr 1992 14:11:58 -0500
Organization: U Texas Dept of Computer Sciences, Austin TX
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu


Well, I've never heard of motor oil being a wax base (doesn't mean that
it's not) but I've had this problem in my 64 Bug oil intake tube, near
the top of the kneck.  Mine is sorta like oil foam or lather.  I think
I heard it's from humidity or water condensation too.  It's never hurt
my engine or caused poor performance to my knowledge.  Perhaps it's
one of the characteristics of the air cooled enigne when not driven hard.
I also use straight 30w, maybe there's some connection there too...
From: jhamill@BBN.COM (John Hamill)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: AutoThority Stage II
Date: 13 Apr 1992 14:43:54 GMT
Organization: Bolt Beranek and Newman Inc., Cambridge MA
Distribution: world
Reply-To: jhamill@BBN.COM (John Hamill)
NNTP-Posting-Host: bbn.com


	Well, I went and installed the AutoThority Stage II kit in my
Corrado this weekend. I bought and installed this kit with some
reservations and visions of my supercharger self destructing, or
maybe a piston flying through the hood...
	I did the installation at my dad's garage with several VW 
technicians watching me every step of the way (they only get to 
do oil changes on Corrado's at this point of their product life)
so watching someone rip apart the Digifant computer was interesting to
them. The AutoThority kit is fairly easy to install if you have a 
fully equipped garage at hand, even if you don't the only thing you
need to do it is an air impact wrench. You must be careful and take
your time, you're playing with an expensive motor and delicate things.
I got the kit installed in two hours, one hour going to changing the
chip, the other to changing the supercharger pulley and fuel regulator.
	Impressions: well all I can say is, VR6's WATCH OUT! The car
will launch explosively in all gears now at almost all rpms. The 
increase in supercharger speed means that the car responds at low
rpm much, much better. It is much easier to get out in traffic now
without having to floor it and wait for the rpms to come up.
	On the highway, the engine seems to have to labor much less
with the cruise control when going up hills. The engine has more power
whether the boost is on or not, due to the higher fuel delivery and 
advanced timing. It feels a lot more like driving the VR6. The big 
mushy spot from 1/4 to about 3/4 of the way down on the gas pedal
is pretty much eliminated. My highway gas mileage actually went up
with this kit, my city mileage still remains the same (about 20).

	Benefits:

	Throttle response immediate
	Gas mileage went up to 30.6 on highway
	More farhvergnugen
	Fairly easy to install
	Car is just as docile and well behaved when driven
	normally.
	Fewer parts to install than APS's stage II
	Kit is based on the chip, not an add-on analog
	fuel enrichment system like Neuspeed's.
	
	Non-benefits

	Probably destroyed any notion of a warrenty
	G-60 spinning faster - noisier, might wear out faster
	Temptation to accelerate like a bat out of hell
	Might wear out engine mounts faster, also the seat
	backs are taking more of a strain holding you up
	from the high g-forces.
	Doesn't include an exhaust upgrade
	
	If anyone has more specific questions, feel free to email me.
BTW, I bought the kit from AutoTech, not AutoThority itself, because
AutoTech has a 10% off sale on them right now. I called AutoThority
and they seemed psyched to support the kit, and I told them I was
thinking of using Neuspeed's supercharger cam, they said fine,
let us know and we will send you a chip tuned for the cam.
They are working on an exhaust upgrade also.
jh
 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: greis@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Gayla Ann Greis)
Subject: Re: Upcoming Vintage VW show
Organization: Computing Services Division, University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1992 18:36:02 GMT

In article <1992Apr15.180119.12219@usenet.ins.cwru.edu> wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy) writes:

>Also in the same neighborhood, Parts Place, Inc. (formerly Recycled
>Bugs Inc.) has what the call their Super Sunday on the second Sunday
>in June, this year June 14.  Apparently it's a combined show/sale
>and maybe even swap meet.  I've never been, but it sounds like a good
>chance to pick up used VW parts!

JUNE 14! DAMN! I WISH THEY WOULD CLEAR THESE DAMN DATES! June 14th is also
the Whitney VW show in Villa Park, IL. I do maintain the Northern States
VW calendar, or NoS VW to member clubs... If you need an open date,
please remember to ask, so that we don't have duplicate dates. I am 
starting the calendar for next year NOW. (earlier than I evr have)
The clubs we represent are: MN: Twin Cities VW Club. WI: Badger AutoFun,
Badgerland VW, Bring Your Own Bug & Bunny. IL: Northern IL VW Assn (NIVA),
Stateline Volks Folks. MI: Michigan Buggy Builders, Michigan Vintage VW
West, Michigan Vintage VW East.
The purpose of this is to maximize the number of events members can
go to within a 5 hour drive. (These two shows *might* not conflict - it
depends how fast you drive! :-) If your club is interested in becoming
a part of NoS, then write me. It's free. All you need to do is join a
newsletter exchange with the other clubs in the area. ***NO PRIVATE
INDIVIDUALS PLEASE!*** This is a service to other clubs, from other
clubs. I just maintain the list! Many shows have been held the same weekend
for *YEARS*, and it is not fair to schedule another show/event for the
same weekend/day. Often a compromise can be worked out as in a SAT/SUN
deal, or a caravan from one to the other type deal... We're happy to
work with you! If you have a business that is interested in planning
and event, please send me info as well. (As in the case of Recycle 
[BTW: For those who don't know, they're the ones that put out the
highland superstores video on how to restore your bug in a day...])

My Snail-Mail address is:

N51 W27888 Willow Creek Drive
Pewaukee, WI  53072

If you are writing about NoS, please address the letter as such.
If you are in SE Wisconsin, and are inquireing about B.Y.O.B., please
address the letter to B.Y.O.B.

Thanks!
From: gibbemeyer@cntrol.enet.dec.com (Alan Gibbemeyer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Experiences with 91 GTI 8v
Date: 9 Apr 92 13:55:16 GMT
Article-I.D.: e2big.1992Apr9.125550.6484
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation


It seems like everyone is having the same problems with their
GTI's,Golfs, and Jettas.


First off,  the power steering belt squeels because water gets on
it.  There is a splash guard the dealer will install for no charge.
This solves the problem, but make sure the belt is replaced as well.

I had a cold starting problem. The engine would surge from 500-2000 RPM
and repeat.  A tuning was all that was necessary.

You can expect to have a speedometer replacement as well.  I was happy to
find that my new speedometer even goes up to 140MPH instead of 120.  What
a bonus...and I now drive a car with 1500 miles on it.  VDO speedometers
are known for their unreliability.

I had some problem with my clutch.  It would jerk on startup.  By taking
the transmission out and putting it back in they solved that problem. They
said something about a loose engine mount.

I needed three alignments when I first bought my car.  They gave me some
bull about the low-profile tires pulling but the third alignment did the
trick.  They also charged me for that...even though my car had only 900
miles on it.  (all highway--moved that week)

I needed a new light switch and turn signal switch as well.  A new radio
because the cassette tracking was off.

I think many of these problems were quality control related problems from
the Mexican assembly plant. (not saying that the German made one's are
better or worse...I don't know)

BTW-- these aren't all the problems I've had--I've also had my water
replaced, belts replaced, parking light problem (loose wire), hatch
alignment.



Even with all these problems though I do like my car.  I really do abuse
it (by my driving) so maybe not everyone has all these problems but they
do seem pretty universal.

BYE,

Alan GIbbemeyer
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: ed@sun-valley.Stanford.EDU (Edward Wilson)
Subject: OPINIONS WANTED ON 1992 VW GOLF
Keywords: vw golf
Organization: stanford
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 92 00:44:30 GMT

I'm considering buying a new 1992 VW Golf (5 speed, 4 door)

Does anyone want to share any opinions on this car before I buy it?

I don't care so much about being able to race this thing, but would
like to know about any problems it has (e.g. I have heard the
Automatics are really bad).

Ed (ed@sun-valley.stanford.edu)
From: ap20@snoopy.umd.edu (Michael)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Are VW auto transmissions any good?
Date: 14 Apr 92 00:03:35 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: University of Maryland, College Park

I have a chance to buy a low-miles Scirocco. But it has an
automatic transmission. It's an '82, and I know nothing of
VWs auto trans. Can someone tell me if they're good, bad,
or whatever? What kind of life-span should I expect? 

Thanks,
MikeC
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu
Subject: '66 bus question
Organization: University of Louisville
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 00:14:13 GMT

I decided that it was finally enough into spring to try to do some work on my
project '66 bus.  When I was looking at the front end, I noticed that it looked
a lot like my '77 bus front end.  So I got to thinking...  

Can I put a front end off a newer bus onto my old one?  As I recall, '71 buses
had both the disk brakes I want with the 5 bolt lug pattern to match my wheels. 
Anybody know if this swap is worth the effort?
 
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
|pH Fred == pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu    |   Real Programmers use C      |
|        == ..!psuvax1!ulkyvx.bitnet!pgheit01 |   because it's the easiest    |
|           University of Louisville          |   language to spell.          |
|                Louisville, KY               |                               |
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
From: jeff@dspprd.sps.mot.com (Jeff Enderwick)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Where VW's are made
Date: 9 Apr 92 01:54:27 GMT
	<1992Apr8.124847.26292@wpi.WPI.EDU> <SS.92Apr8085504@wpi.WPI.EDU>
	<1992Apr8.142620.7063@ncsu.edu>
Organization: /home/dsp/users/jeff/.organization

VWs are made in hell. At least mine came from there. :-)
From: v107qptd@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (Eiji Iki)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: clutch problem!
Date: 13 Apr 92 22:37:00 GMT
Organization: UB


   Recently I changed the clutch and pressure  plate on friend of mine's
'82 Scirrocco Wb ed. and this problem started.  The gears grind when I
shift in to reverse. There's no problem when shifted into 1st thru 5th
though there's a quite a bit of play in shift linkages.  
   A similar thing happend to other friend a long time ago. When he had his
Mazda 626's clutch changed at some garage his tranny grinded when shifted
into reverse. The mechanic said it was because the clutch was new and thick
so in a week or two there should be no problem and he was right.
   But this time it's been a month and the problem persists.
What's going on?  
Anyone have any idea?  Please enlighten me!
I hope I don't have to drop the tranny again. 

E.I.
From: boubez@tastesgreat.rutgers.edu (Toufic Boubez)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Spark Plug Questions
Date: 6 Apr 92 23:21:16 GMT
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

opus@athena.mit.edu (Dave J.) writes:

>I have an '89 Jetta GL, engine code PF.  I'm wondering what type of spark
>plug to use.  The problem is, my owner's manual says Bosch W 7 DTC, the
>Bentley manual says W 7 DCO, but I can only find W 6 DTC, which claims to
>work in my engine.

>Who do I trust? I want to use the 3 electrode version of Bosch plug, and
>the ones I can find (W 6 DTC) claim to fit my engine.  Will I do any harm
>by using this plug even though it's not W 7?

Just go to a good auto parts store, give them the year and model and
specify that you want triple electrode Bosch (or NGK, which is what I use
now) and use what they give you :-) That's what I do, and it has worked so
far on any part, not just spark plugs :-) Good luck.

>-David Jedlinsky

toufic
            R 2 4      Toufic Boubez
            |_|_|      boubez@cesl.rutgers.edu
            | | |      Computational Engineering Systems Lab
            1 3 5      CAIP Center, Rutgers University, NJ
From: ingram@sequent.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: '75 Beetle Brake Problems
Date: 12 Apr 92 21:13:09 GMT
Article-I.D.: sequent.1992Apr12.211309.11664
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems, Inc.

In article <25920065@hpcc01.corp.hp.com> martin@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Sam Martin) writes:
%> Sam, I had the SAME SYMPTONS on a 71' Super Beetle. Try adjusting the shoes   
%> all the way around. You know, until they bind, then back off just a LITTLE    
%> bit. If there is slight rubbing of the shoes against the drums after you
%> back off the "locked" condition, GOOD. This should fix your problem.
%> Bill
%
%	Thanks for the info Bill.  I have done this before.  I have even
%	gone to the xtreem of adjusting them to the point that I couldn't
%	turn them by hand.  I *STILL* could not get them to lock up (even
%	when my foot was pushing on the spare.)

 Have you checked for glazing of the shoes/drums or grease/fluid on the
 shoes or drums?
 Let me know what you come up with on this one? Has the master cylinder
 been replaced recently?
 Later-Bill
A
A
A
From: taylorb@fcs260c.ncifcrf.gov (Brent Taylor)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Re: Where VW's are made
Date: 14 Apr 92 20:30:52 GMT
Organization: NCI Supercomputer Facility, Frederick, MD

When I was looking around for a GLI, I made it clear to the salesmen that it come from
Germany.  Upon looking at VIN numbers at serveral dealers and having one salesman
check into it with VWOA, the conclusion is that ALL 2.0L 16V GLI A2 cars are made in
Germany.
I also remember a few years back when VW had Wolfsburg editions of Golf's, Cabriolet's,
etc. that all the Wolfsburg editions were also made in Germany.  So through the years
it seems like any special edition of a normally aspirated VW comes from Germany.


------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
| later,                        B-|                     (TAYLORB @ NCIFCRF.GOV)    |
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: ingram@sequent.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: '75 Beetle Brake Problems
Date: 7 Apr 92 21:27:39 GMT
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems, Inc.

In article <25920063@hpcc01.corp.hp.com> martin@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Sam Martin) writes:
%	I'm having a proplem with my '75 Bug brakes.  I have recently
%	overhauled the whole system (i.e., new master and all four
%	slaves) and seem to have a problem getting full braking
%	power.
%
%	I have checked and re-check brake lines for air (I used up
%	about a gallon of brake fluid in the process) and I am positive
%	there is no air in the lines (used one of those bleeding tools
%	to prevent air from getting back into the slaves.)
%
%	I have adjusted the plunger (the part that connects the brake
%	peddle with the master cylinder) to give it a little more travel
%	with no luck.
%
%	I have checked for leaks.  Found none and I don't lose any fluid
%	from the resevior.
%
%	I don't see any pinched lines either.....hmmmmm?????
%
%	I have noticed that, at times, I will be driving down the freeway
%	for a long period of time; take an offramp; hit the brakes and they
%	are much better than normal.  Other times just the same.
%
%	I'm worried that I'll need to slame on the brakes and not be
%	able to stop in time.
%
%	What's next?
%
%	Any suggestions?
%
%	Thanks,
%
%	Sam
%
%		...this is the only time I wish I could make skid marks...
%
%----------------------------------------------------------------------
%Sam Martin                              Hewlett-Packard Co.  Palo Alto
%EMail: martin@hpcc26.corp.hp.com        PAITC Network Engineering
%HP Desk:  Sam MARTIN/HP0000/GR          Bldg 20 -  Level C - Post C12H
%Phone: 1-857-4982  | (415) 857-4982     Mailstop: 20CE

 Sam, I had the SAME SYMPTONS on a 71' Super Beetle. Try adjusting the shoes   
 all the way around. You know, until they bind, then back off just a LITTLE    
 bit. If there is slight rubbing of the shoes against the drums after you
 back off the "locked" condition, GOOD. This should fix your problem.
 Bill
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy)
Subject: Re: HELP! removing rear tranny seal
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio, (USA)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 92 18:42:33 GMT


Tom sent this method to me via e-mail.  Since there's been some interest,
I thought I'd post it since it's a nifty solution.  Thanks for all
the other input too, and if there's any more ideas out there, keep
them coming!

Bill
************
>I did this back around Thanksgiving by taking it to a local porsche
>garage.  The guy there showed me his trick: you drill two holes in the
>seal, then screw in two medium sized screws.  Then you can just grab
>on the screws to pull it out.

>Tom
>bedspg.att.com!lawson

-- 
William Claspy			Case Western Reserve University
Internet- wpc@po.cwru.edu
MaBellnet- (216) 368-3595
From: lm@slovax.Eng.Sun.COM (Larry McVoy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Mexican VW buses?
Date: 7 Apr 92 04:53:40 GMT
Reply-To: lm@sun.UUCP (Larry McVoy)
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Mountain View
NNTP-Posting-Host: slovax


I was down around Cozumel recently and it was a sight for sore eyes -
every other car on the road was a bug or a bus.  Cool.

One thing surprised me - it looked like they had put some sort of
cooler on the front of the bus, looked just like a radiator.  Since my
spanish is limited to "quantos?" I didn't ever figure out what they had
changed.  Does anyone know if it is a water or oil cooler?  Know any
other details?  Is there a camper version?  Who's making these,
Brazil?  Anyone imported one?  How bad was it?

Cheers,

(3 vans, a bug, a squareback, and happy),

---
Larry McVoy			(415) 336-7627			 lm@sun.com
From: berin@f14.EBay.Sun.COM (Eddie Berin/SE Sun Microsystems Federal)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: mini history of the name GTI
Date: 9 Apr 92 17:31:56 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems Federal, Milpitas, CA.
NNTP-Posting-Host: f14.ebay.sun.com


  
The appellation GTI is not quite what another poster mentioned.

The 'I' is in fact for fuel injection;  not ELECTRONIC fuel injection.
The 1976 Scirocco GTi used CIS injection, which is non-electronic.  The
'i' stood for the German word 'Einspritzer' (?) and the 'i' was used (not
sure why 'e' wasn't - maybe GTe sounded too much like a telephone B-)).

The GTI name originated from the 1976 Scirocco GTi (European model
only and note the lower case 'i').  The Scirocco was actually the
first 'true' GTi, not the Rabbit/Golf models.  The first VW/Audi product
to be marketed in North America with the GTI name was the special edition
1978 Audi Fox.  This was only a cosmetic difference;  no uprated engine
or suspension.

The current Golf models with GTI trim are essentially the same 1976 concept.

Eddie
From: william@festival.ed.ac.uk (W.Warburton)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Q about points on '71 camper.
Date: 14 Apr 92 14:15:37 GMT
Reply-To: W.Warburton@ed.ac.uk
Organization: Edinburgh University Computing Service


Hi again,
	  I got some good advice when I asked about my heater problems
(thanks, guys) so I'm back for more :-)

 I spent the weekend doing some longish (200 miles +) trips and my 
camper (Grandpa) seems to be burning up his points :-(.
 He started running rough after I'd driven a few hundred miles at
around 60 mph on the motorways so I checked the points & they had a
medium sized peak/pit burnt into them. I filed the peak off & reset
the gap (no dwell meter, so points set by feeler gauge) and then set off
again. By the time I'd got home (about another 350 miles in two stages)
he was sounding really rough again. I was driving at about 60ish, as 
before, depending on conditions etc. (his speedo is calibrated in Km/h
and I lift my foot when he gets to 100 (62mph) unless I'm overtaking).

 Grandpa has a factory reconditioned 1584cc engine, and runs on leaded
petrol. I'm planning to take him back to the garage I bought him from
but I'd like to have a second opinion about what's happening.

 Can anybody advise? I think it should be OK to drive him like this, do
you?

Thanks,
	W.

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Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw