HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Organization: Ryerson Polytechnical Institute
Date: Thursday, 8 Oct 1992 12:53:08 EST
From: Sean Edward Blenkhorn <ACPS7035@RyeVm.Ryerson.Ca>
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: How does solarization work?
Distribution: rec

Greetings

> After cropping your image and doing some test strips with two series
> of exposures running perpendicularly to eachother, expose your paper
> for the first time, put it in the developer for a while, wipe off the
> paper to remove excess developer, the expose the paper to light, no
> neg involved.  The result is that some of the areas that would have
> been dark in a normal image "wrap-around" and become light again.

My personally favourite trick is something I came up with when I first
tried solarlization.  In the darkroom I used to have the light wasn't
all that strong in the normal lighting...
So, I took my flash and test flashed the developing paper in the tray.
This seem to work quite well.
I was pretty new to photography, I still am, so I've never heard of
anyone else trying that trick.  But it seemed to work for me quite well.
I don't know if the effect I got was the desired effect, because I was
experimenting with solarization.  Is there a fool-proof method of
solarization?

What are the best photos to solarize?  Is there something to look for in
the picture that will pretty much garantee that the picture will solarize
nicely?

     /     /|\     \        AND GOD SAID...             -LATER-
   /     /  |  \     \        .D=P               ACPS7035 @ RYERSON
 /_____/____|____\_____\      .B=O               ACPS7035 @ RyeVM
     / \    |    / \          E=-aB/aT        Sean Edward Blenkhorn
   /     \  |  /     \        H=i+aD/aT             Blackthorne
 /         \|/         \    AND THERE WAS LIGHT!          aka
 Who Wants to Live Forever?                            The Dragon
From: ben@monmouth.edu (Bennett Broder)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Nikon lens for sale
Date: 9 Oct 92 15:38:05 GMT
Organization: Monmouth College, W. Long Branch, N.J.  07764


For Sale:

Zoom Nikkor
80-200mm  f4.5
Excellent condition
Asking $300

-- 

Bennett Broder               Monmouth College
                             Computer Services
ben@monmouth.edu             W. Long Branch, NJ 07764
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: ejh2p@faraday.clas.Virginia.EDU (Swedish Chef)
Subject: SO-279 film Questions
Keywords: SO-279, Vericolor Slide film 
Organization: University of Virginia
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 03:31:20 GMT

Hi, I read sometime last spring a post about using vericolor slide
film for interesting effects.  The post talked of shooting it and then
having it processed C-41 for some wierd color shifts, or something
like that, I can't quite remember.  Well, I went to the store, and
tried to find that to shoot.  I bought some SO-279 film.  I now have
a couple of questions.
	
	1)  Was this the same film mentioned last year? (does anybody
remember the posts?)
	2)  Whether or not it was, does anybody have any ideas for
exposing it under daylight conditions?  (what ISO)  I know it was
designed to be used as a copy film, and it is rated at ISO 8, but that
is not under daylight.  I called Kodak Tech. Info., and the guy I
spoke to couldn't help, but suggested what I was already planning to
do--bracket like there's no tomorrow.
	3)  Any other interesting comments, or suggestions?


BTW, I am also planning to get some tungsten E-6 film and expose it
under daylight, and have it developed C-41 to see what happens.  I
know a lab that will do this for me, and won't try to screw with color
correction while printing.  Wish me luck.

Thanks,

-ed
 
--
#################################
ejh2p@faraday.clas.virginia.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: A mailorder success story
From: jacobs@cerritos.edu
Date: 7 Oct 92 20:31:36 PST
Organization: Cerritos College, Norwalk CA

In article <BvrA1G.1qu@encore.com>, equacken@encore.com (Eric E. Quackenbush) writes:
> 
> I called and ordered a Quantum 1+ battery and module from Camera World of
> Oregon late on a Friday night.  I told them I didn't want a back order and
> they said they would call back if there was and I could backorder, cancel 
> just the backordered piece (they knew the battery was in stock but were not
> sure if module was) or cancel full order.  They indicated that if I did
> decide to backorder there would be NO additional shipping charge.  I was 
> given an ETA of 5 - 7 working days and it would ship on the following Monday
> do to UPS already had been and left.  Low and behold I received a box from
> them on the 6th working day, everything was new and exactly what I ordered.
> They were only $2.00 more than the cheapest price (after shipping) I had
> gotten from the grey marketeers in NYC.  They were also very helpfull and
> courteous on the phone.  I saved over $50 dollars from in town.  I'll order
> from these folks again!
> 
> Eric Quackenbush
> equacken@encore.com


The guys at Camer World are probably the most reputable mail order house in the
business. They will also save those of you on the west coast quite a bit in
shipping charges as they are located in Oregon. Their prices aren't always the
cheapest, but they will not give you run-around on orders. 

BTW, those of you who are always complaining about the NY mail houses pulling
stuff and charging you even though they don't have it in stock would do well to
always have things shipped 2nd day air or next day. That way you know right
away if they are trying to pull something because you KNOW when it is supposed
to arrive, and the packages can be tracked. You'd be surprised how many times
the NY mail houses have told me they didn't have something in stock AFTER I
told them I wanted it 2nd day.


Karl
 
________________________________________________________________________________Karl Jacobs - Jacobs@cerritos.edu

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: ka1gt@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (robert.m.atkins)
Subject: Re: Macbeth Color Chart
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 16:41:05 GMT

In article <1992Oct7.181515.4482@pony.Ingres.COM>, daveb@Ingres.COM (Dave Brower, DBMS hack, [510] 748-3418) writes:
> Where does one get a Macbeth color chart, and how much do they cost?
> 

Edmund Scientific, Part # A37756  $44.95  (609) 573-6259

===============================================================
Bob Atkins  AT&T Bell Labs  email (direct)  att!clockwise!rma
===============================================================
From: mikem@ex.heurikon.com (Mike Mayer)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Barnbaum and Sexton like the same rock?
Date: 14 Oct 92 13:05:30 GMT
Article-I.D.: heurikon.1788
Reply-To: mikem@ex.heurikon.com (Mike Mayer)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Heurikon Corporation, Madison, WI

#jimc@tau-ceti.isc-br.com (Jim Cathey) writes concerning the ``famous''
#rock on Sunwapta Falls:
#>I just printed this neg the night before last, and the 8x10 I made is
#>OK, but not great.  Maybe if I fiddle with it some more.  One thing's
#>for sure, a 6x6 TLR at f/8 (its best aperture) doesn't have enough
#>DOF to do this shot right (the foreground rocks are soft).  (No! I will
#>_not_ succumb to the wiggles [mphhh, grunt, arrrgh].)

What's the matter, afraid you'll LIKE it? :-)
--
Mike Mayer                                             mikem@heurikon.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: gisi@hplgisi.hpl.hp.com (Mark A. Gisi)
Subject: Re: Need Nikon Body Repair (K & S?)
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 07:02:16 GMT
Distribution: ba
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories, Palo Alto, CA


>> Needless to say, I was not highly impressed by Apollo
>>                               -David Jacobson


> There have been previous warnings in rec.photo about Apollo
> Sounds like it would be wise to simply avoid them.
>                                 -Alan

Both my friend and I have had a positive experience with having cameras
repaired by Apollo. But these are only two cases. I did go there on a recommendation.

The question you might want to ask is where does K & S send their cameras
for repairs.  I do not know. After visting Apollo, I got the impression
(and only an impression) that a number of local bay area camera stores send
out their repairs to Apollo.  Therefore you end up paying a middleman fee
for handling.  Apollo does run a very large operation (may be too large!).

- Mark
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: kar@cs.rit.edu (Kenneth A Reek)
Subject: Canon accessories for sale
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology, Rochester, NY
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 16:05:54 GMT

	I have the following items for sale:

Canon Viewfinder Magnifier	$15
Canon Waist Level Viewfinder	$20
Canon Tele-extender FD 2x-A	$90

The viewfinder accesories fit Canon cameras with a rectangular view
finder, such as the A-1, AE-1, FT, etc.  All this stuff is in nearly
new condition.  If you're interested, give me a call at 716-475-6155.
-- 
Kenneth A. Reek				kar@cs.rit.edu
Rochester Institute of Technology	rutgers!rochester!rit!kar
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: cab@col.hp.com (Chris Best)
Subject: Re: question about a flash
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 21:06:17 GMT
Organization: your service

> I have a Canon Speedlite 244T flash that I plan to use on a Pentax K1000.
> I got the flash used and without instructions.  What I need to know is what 
> F stop and shutter speed to set the camera at when I am using the flash.

----------

The shutter speed has to be 1/60 or slower on the K1000.  This
is the "sync speed" (email me for explanation - it's been beat
to death here in the past).

As for the f-stop, I'd guess it varies by flash, so I won't
tell you what MINE makes me use.  Speedlite owners?
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au (Paul Repacholi)
Subject: Re: Index for Darkroom & Creative Camera Techniques
Organization: Curtin University of Technology
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 21:25:13 GMT

In article <1992Oct9.203130.1@cc.curtin.edu.au>, zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au (Paul Repacholi) writes:
> In article <1992Oct7.195112.16691@javelin.sim.es.com>, RSPEIRS@130.187.170.178 (RON SPEIRS) writes:
> ...
>> 
>> Here's the offer:  I would be happy to share it with anyone who would 
>> want it.  Just send a blank diskette (3.5 or 5.25, DD is ok) with a self-
>> addressed envelope with return postage.  Alternatively, you could just
>> send a couple of dollars and I'll take care of the diskette and postage
>> (but I would prefer the first way).  If you are interested, send the
>> blank diskette to:
> 
> Could you post the ASCII versions? I would love a copy, but the distance...

yes, UU encoded would be wonderfull.

~Paul

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: ka1gt@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (robert.m.atkins)
Subject: rec.photo "netiquette" list - FAQ addition - Good idea???
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 17:37:13 GMT


Reading some other newsgroups, I have found lists of newsgroup "netiquette"
quite useful. They list general guidelines for what and what not to post
and how to do the posting. Would such a list be a valuable addition to
an FAQ here? A suggestion for such a list is given below:

.............................................................................

GENERAL GUIDELINES


New users should read the postings on news.announce.newusers for a full
overview of usenet, how it works, what it is, what it isn't etc.

Before posting a question, read the FAQ list first. Many questions come up
over and over again ("can you freeze film", "do I need a circular polarizer",
"do X-rays fog film") and become quite tiring (especially after the 10th time).

When replying to a posting and including some of the original, EDIT the
original down to the relevant section. A 100 line quote with a two line
comment wastes bandwidth.

Many terminals (mine included!) have an 80 character maximum line length so
the end of long lines may not be readable by many users. Try to limit line
length to 80 characters max (preferably less since quoted postings increase
line length).

If the reply to a posting doesn't contain information of general interest
(e.g. What kind of battery should I use in my Olympus XA?), then reply by
e-mail rather than by a posting.

Limit the distribution of postings to the appropriate areas. Don't post
questions about the best camera store in San Jose to the entire world!

Limit long elaborate signature lines. A two line posting with a ten line
signature is another way to waste bandwidth.

Don't post, or even suggest posting, picture files (GIF etc) to ANY rec.
newsgroup. There are special newsgroups that are designed to handle such
postings. They consume large amounts of bandwith and disk space, which some
systems may not wish to handle (or may not be able to handle).

Don't post any commercial messages, e.g., "Joe's Camera has the following
lenses for sale (long list follows)", or "Write for details on how to make
$10000 per week with your camera". Individual "for sale" postings of a
non-commercial nature are OK. Even postings like "Joe's camera has a Nikon
500mm f4 for sale at $100" might be OK if they are about something unusual
or rare, but not if it is just a list of ordinary stuff.

Questions like "Should I buy A Nikon 8008, Canon EOS 10s or Minolta 7xi -
what are their features?" are way too broad to answer. Get the manufacturers
literature, read it and then ask specific questions. Try to include a few
clues about what kind of photography you are interested in doing.

Don't flame. Rec.photo is one of the most civilized newsgroups. Trading
insults is a waste of time and bandwidth. Use e-mail if you must engage in
such exchanges.

...........................................................................

Any other suggestions, corrections? Is this a good idea?

Bob Atkins  (long signature delated....)
Newsgroups: rec.photo,alt.sex.bestiality
From: rkrouse@netcom.com (Robert K. Rouse)
Subject: Redwoods Figure Group Shoot
Keywords: figure shoot
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 06:24:30 GMT



  The October WPFG Figure Group Shoot is planned for a Redwood
grove near Half Moon Bay on Sunday, October 25, from 1 to 4 p.m..
This Redwood grove has trees about 100  feet tall and a creek.  We
will be walking about twenty minutes along trails from the parking
lot so comfortable walking shoes are recommended.



   Redwoods tend to block sunlight so on camera flash or fast
film is recommended.  Flash brings out the color of these dark 
trees is the strength of this location.  Additionally, you are
welcome to bring fashion or props to enhance the green flora.



   So far, six photographer members and have indicated an early
interest in this shoot.  As a standard WPFG shoot, the fees will 
be $30 for FMs and $60 for CMs.  Reservation dealine by check to
the WPFG Post Office Box is October 21.  Directions will be mailed
as confirmation.  If rain appears likely,  then on the preceding 
day we will call those who have reserved in order to postpone.


	For information:


		WPFG
		P.O. Box 145
		Concord, CA 94522

		Patrick Gagne (510) 671-7762 evenings
		Paul Hirsohn  (510) 548-6744 Saturdays AM






-- 
==========================================================================
            Robert K. Rouse		rkrouse@netcom.com
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
 "VOTE! - use it or lose it" 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: scalawag@carson.u.washington.edu (Keith Frederick)
Subject: Opinons sought regarding a Yashica camera
Summary: Novice and new "rec.photo" reader has a question! 
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1992 01:52:50 GMT

Hello, I'm new to rec.photo so forgive me if there is a FAQ that 
has pointers to a bunch of review type files.

I recently received a catalog from DAMARK and they are advertising a
Yashica 38-80mm Compact Zoom Camera (with Quartz Date back) for $199.99
and they mention the retail price is $431.98.

I'm going to type in the specs they mentioned and would appreciaate it
if someone could give their opinion onwhether this is a good deal or
not. Also, personal opinions about Yashica cameras in general or about
this specific one would also be appreciated.  

YASHICA
38-80mm compact zoom camera with quartz date back.
"This high quality 35mm, designed by one of the premier camera
manufacturers, features a super sharp three step 38-80mm zoom for
tele/wide selectivity. All systems are automated for ease of use.
There's auto focus with focus lock and "infinity" lock, quick auto
flash, and full auto film handling. Other features include  a 10 second
self-timer, auto DX film setting, and an LCD information window. Date
back offers date imprint, time imprint, or no imprint modes.
Lens: 38-80mm f/3.8-7.6.  Includes case and lithium battery. 
Model #Zoomtec-80D."
 
Basically, I'm in the market for a good camera that is relatively
flexible (I don't mind spending the time to  learn how to use a camera
properly if it means better pictures) and will last a few years.
 
Any comments/opinions are appreciated.

Thanks!
 ________________________________________________________________________
|                                  |                                     |
| Keith R. Frederick               | Happiness is our moral purpose.     |
| (206)285-1576                    | If you see Dr. Fu Manchu, Kill Him! | 
| scalawag@carson.u.washington.edu | Reason is our only absolute.        |
| I'm not a number, I'm a free man!|-------------------------------------|
| CIS: 73760,3521  UWID: 8722277   | :::  Looking for a grad school  ::: |
|__________________________________|_____________________________________|
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: acs@csri.toronto.edu (Alvin Chia-Hua Shih)
Subject: Re: Canon Speedlight 420EZ?
Date: 15 Oct 92 00:50:27 GMT

In <1992Oct13.004326.9105@walter.bellcore.com> hsong@ardour.bellcore.com (G. Hugh Song) writes:

>Can someone spell out the difference between Canon Speedlights
>420EZ and 430EZ?   One obvous difference seems to be the guide
>number.  One is 42meter and the other is 43 meter.   So they are about 
>equal.  Is there any feature missing in 420EZ?


When I asked this question not so long ago, here's the helpful response
I got from Jim Cathey (which made me go with the 430):

>> The 420 and 430 are very similar, but the 420 is discontinued (I had
>> one, once).  The 430 offers these advantages:
>>
>> 1) An external high-voltage power pack jack (Canon, or Quantum Turbo)
>>    for 2 or 1 second (respectivly) recycle times.  ($200 for these.)
>>
I don't own a high-voltage pack yet, but I like having the option of
getting one later.

>> 2) Faster (10 Hz vs 5 Hz) strobe 'disco' mode (yawn).
>>
>> 3) Ability to adjust fill-flash ratio on bodies 630 and newer.
>>
I use the adjustable fill control all the time, particularly when I'm
in a situation with relatively low light.  I try not to overpower the
subject with flash and let the printer print up.  I don't mind losing
shadow detail in order to preserve "mood".  (Although I haven't tried
flash photography with slides.  I'm a coward.  I admit it!  :-)

>>  plus a couple of other minor nits:  a locking pin on the hot shoe
>>  for a more secure hold on newer bodies, and a non-volatile memory
>>  that remembers the last setting when it is off.

The locking pin is reassuring to have.  The NOVRAM is nice in that it
remembers how I have my fill ratio set (probably the idea behind it).
I usually have it set to -1.

>Thanks.

Hope that helps.

>	Hugh

ACS
-- 
 ___ ___ ___ ______________________________________________________________
|   |   | __|      Democracy is not a way of getting better solutions.     |
| - | --|__ |           It's just a way to spread the blame.               |
|_|_|___|___|______________________________________________________________|
Alvin_C._Shih____________________acs@csri.utoronto.ca______________________|
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: Christian Brudevoll <chribrud@ifi.uio.no>
Subject: Teleconverters for Olympus
Organization: Dept. of Informatics, University of Oslo, Norway
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 11:38:45 GMT
Originator: chribrud@solva.ifi.uio.no

As far as I know, Olympus is only making two teleconverters;
1.4x for long focal lengths  and  2x for short (100-200mm) ones.

I am not satisfied using the 2x on a 350mm (250mm F2 with 1.4x),
it becomes too little sharp. Coupling two 1.4x to each other
is impossibel because of the converters front-element.

Anybody having any advice for another converter?
Does any second brand make converter for long focal-lengts,
witch might be sharper?
What about getting a Nikon-converter for long focal-lengts
and put the glass into a Olympus-converter?

Christian Brudevoll
University of Oslo
Norway
From: Jimmy.Tung@dartmouth.edu (Jimmy Tung)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Foggy photos
Date: 8 Oct 92 21:45:36 GMT
Article-I.D.: dartvax.1992Oct8.214536.25871
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH
X-Posted-From: InterNews1.0a5@newshost.dartmouth.edu

Well, the fall colors are definitely in full swing up here in New
England.  Have fun and look out for slow moving peepers.

I'm just guessing on what could be wrong.  Sounds like you might have a
leak in the light seals on the lower edges your camera/lens fitting.
Take a look at your negs and see if any dark streaks are visible by the
sprocket holes &/or tops of the pics.  Excess light gets in when the
mirror flips up, otherwise 'blank' frames (at beginning and end of
roll) would be fogged also.  I suppose the photo developer tries to
compensate, but then doesn't readjust for every photo, resulting in the
too dark photos.  Assuming this is the problem, and is caused by the
"cheap" lens, the "original" lens may help, if the problem isn't from
an accidental ding to the camera body.  Could be something on the
lens/inside the lens body, again on the lower surfaces, but this seems
unlikely.

Use of slide film will definitely eliminate developer probs...  Good
luck.

JT -- No employer with an opinion.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: fm@neptune.iex.com (Mohammad Farooq)
Subject: Nikkor AIS 35-105 for sale
Originator: fm@neptune.iex.com
Organization: iex
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 16:53:44 GMT


I have Nikkor AIS 35-105 macro zoom for sale. The lens is in ex++ condition.
No scrahes just like new. Asking price $200 plus shipping. Please send e-mail
or call.

Office: 214-612-2600
Home:   214-306-9333
From: sdm@pyramid.Corp.Sun.COM (Scott Mann)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Push/Pull Processing (Was "Re: Can I "pull process" a film?")
Date: 12 Oct 92 20:02:32 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Mt. View, Ca.
NNTP-Posting-Host: pyramid.corp.sun.com

>
>You really shouldn't have anything to worry about. WHY? 
>Color print film such as the one you used, has the tolerance
>for 2-3 stops under/over, therefore, your lab should have no
>problems during printing.  I recently shot, in purpose,
>Kodak 100 at 200 and since this is affect a 1 stop over, the
>prints came out great. Your 1 stop under, should not adversely 
>affect your pictures, if fact, they "might" be better. :-)
>
>-- 

I often shoot Ektar 100 at ISO 200.  I have heard that push
processing is unnecessary, which seems to be what you are
saying here.  Correct?  If so, what does the lab do when
they push-process (some labs charge extra for this)?

Is there a good reference on this subject?

Thanks!

--


...Scott
From: andyc@hplsla.hp.com (Andy Cassino)
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 16:09:44 GMT
Subject: Re: A Summer's Day..
Organization: HP Lake Stevens, WA
Newsgroups: rec.photo

lakhindr@ESD.3Com.COM (Lakhinder Walia) writes:
>   Going thru this book " A summer's Day" by Meyerowitz.., 
> I was intrigued by the authors' photograph on the jacket ( at the back..).
> 
> It shows JM holding some kind of shield/polariser/filter in front of
> his camera. Looks like it covers more than 50% of camera top view..
> 
> Could somebody explain what is he doing with that dark sheet..;
> 

If I recall the photograph correctly, it was the dark slide from his 8x10 
camera, and he was using it as a lens shade.

    %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
    % Andy Cassino                                       %
    % Hewlett-Packard - Lake Stevens Instrument Division %
    %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%