HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: enenkel@cs.toronto.edu (Robert Frederick Enenkel)
Subject: Re: Indoor Fish Cafe
Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of Toronto
Date: 22 Jul 92 13:13:18 GMT

bj368@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Mike E. Romano) writes:

>I am very interested in raising fish which are to be eaten, not just
>looked at, in an indoor aquarium set up.
>I have been told that the tilapia species are the hardiest, cheapest
>to feed, etc. and quite tasty.

No, common carp are the hardiest.  They can live in sewage.  And they eat
anything (including duck shit, if necessary).  They are also the best
tasting fish, although the bones are not exactly user-friendly.  One
does get used to them however.  (Note the conspicuous lack of a
disclaimer regarding personal bias... :-)

>Does anyone have any information or heard of anyone actually raising
>fish to eat indoors, or next best, in a small backyard set up?

I raise carp indoors in 600 gal pools.  I also eat carp, not generally
the same ones, although once an 18" koi (coloured carp) jumped out of
his tank and died, so I ate him.  Best fish dinner I ever had!

Finally, Mike, and of some possible worth, there are several people on
the net who raise food fish.  If you don't get enough replies, send me
e-mail and I'll give you a few names.  For now, give Argent a call at
1-800-426-6258 and ask for their book catalog.  They have several useful
books on small-scale aquaculture.

Happy carping!  (Or tilapia-ing, or whatever...)
Robert Enenkel
From: bn691@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Deron Monroe)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Attn Midwest Freshwater Fans
Date: 23 Jul 92 16:45:24 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio, (USA)


I read yesterday in Southern Living magazine that a new public aquarium
has recently opened in Chattanooga Tn.  It is dedicated solely to 
fresh water fish, and the other animals that may share their habitat.
I recall them saying that at least one of the tanks was 137,000 gallons.
(for what its worth)  Adult admission is 8.75, children 4.75, the article
did not specify the hours of operation.  

FYI
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:4316 rec.aquaria:6000
From: tom@dynamo.ecn.purdue.edu (Tom McCain)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: (M)(R) Another light question...
Keywords: Metal Halide
Date: 24 Jul 92 15:03:39 GMT
Organization: Purdue University, West Lafayette, IN


Has anyone found a source for, or purchased a 5500K, 100w metal halide
bulb?  I keep waiting for Coralife to come out with theirs with no
luck.  They've advertised for over a year now that a 5500K, 100w bulb
will be "coming soon".  I'm tired of waiting!

Also, has anyone tried the new 6800K (I think) bulb that I recently
saw advertised in FAMA?  Supposably it can be used without any
supplemental actinic lighting....  Comments?

--

Tom McCain 
tom@ecn.purdue.edu
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: dhiggs@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Unrecoverable Application Error)
Subject: Re: (M) Iodine
Keywords: Iodine
Organization: Another school running out of money!  Thanks George!
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 13:24:08 GMT


In article <1992Jul29.125410.13731@cbfsb.cb.att.com> mdc@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (ba
rbara.guerin) writes:
+
+I have been considering adding an Iodine supplement to
+my 60 gal reef .  I was reading both Thiel and Tullock's
+books on supplements and they both suggets using Iodine
+if keeping macroalgae.  I don't.  However I use ozone
+with my skimmer.  Any experience reef keepers out there
+have opinions about adding iodine.  If so is Thiel's
+supplement the best?

Forgive me if I'm really off base on this but,  don't iodine and ozone
react badly to each other?

Keith.
-- 
D.K.Higgs  DATA+@osu.edu a.k.a dhiggs@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu  _____   __o
Ohio State University Libraries, Acquisitions Department       -----    -\<,
Continuation Acquisition Division                              ----- ( )/ ( )
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~\_________/~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:4288 rec.aquaria:5957 sci.aquaria:1126
From: steve@celia.UUCP (Steve Tyree)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
Subject: [M][R] Secondary Coral Spawning (was Re:[M] Threespot Damsel Spa..)
Date: 22 Jul 92 20:31:20 GMT
Reply-To: celia!steve@usc.edu (Steve Tyree)
Distribution: na
Organization: Rhythm & Hues, Inc., Hollywood

In article <1992Jul21.202415.5142@javelin.sim.es.com> krogers@javelin.sim.es.com writes:
>
>Congrats.  It's still quite rare to get anything to spawn in marine
>tanks.  I'm jelous - my clown fish are all talk (go through all the
>prespawning motions) but no action.  By way of consolation, however,
>my open brain coral spawned again last week.

 What was the phase of the moon over your tank and was it the same phase when
the coral spawned last ? How many days seperated the 2 spawns ?

 My branched hammer coral spawned again last night. Around 400 eggs were re-
leased for the 2 hours folowing the metal halide daylight period. It will
probably spawn again. Last night was the new moon for my reef. The last time
this coral spawned was 2 days after the prior new moon. So this coral was
able to sense my artificial new moon and spawn to both even though the new
moons are only 15 days apart. Corals in nature will usually spawn during 
2 months of summer. For the Great Barrier Reef the months are Oct. and Nov.
if memory serves me right. This spawn cycle should be the second and last 
for this coral this reef summer.
 This time I captured the entire spawn on SVHS video tape. The camera is 
not the greatest, the coral was toward the back of the tank, the only light-
ing was from actinic tubes and the eggs are very small 330 microns. However,
you can definitely see eggs rising up from the branched coral polyps for 
about 10 minutes of tape spawning. The other 15 minutes of the tape shows
how I collect the pelagic coral eggs and even zooms into 3 eggs on a glass
pane. The camera was hand held and hand focused. I must be honest though
and state that collecting pelagic eggs with only 1 hand while filming the
event with a camera in the other hand was rather difficult. :> My humble
human abilities were enough to accomplish the task (insiders joke). 
 ps - I will attend SIGGRAPH in chicago and will bring the tapes with me.
      Wont have a tape player though.

 Steve Tyree - Reef Breeder
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1992 00:11:27 EDT
From: <SRK8@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: Angel Fish that lost it's balance

This is just a beginner's guess, but maybe u're fish is suffering from an
infected swimming bladder.  I have this catalouge from "Jungle" and it says
here u shud use "Fungus Eliminator", dunno if it will really work.  Seems as
if this disease shud not be spreading to other fish.  Hope that was of help.


Kumar
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: riaz@tlc-486.clemson.edu (Riaz Lalani)
Subject: AFM subsciption
Organization: SAES, Clemson University
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 02:13:03 GMT

I admit that I am an unorganized dunce.  I misplaced the info about how 
to subscribe to AFM for 2 yrs for 1 yr price.  Would someone please email
me that info.  Thanks.

                       Riaz Lalani
                       RIAZ@TLC-486.CLEMSON.EDU
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: cburns@ucs.indiana.edu (Chris Burns)
Subject: Re: Visitherm heater defective???
Followup-To: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 92 14:43:40 GMT

In article <9207251531.AA00565@panther2.panther.mot.com>,
Ron.Feigen@panther.mot.com (Ron Feigen) wrote:
> 

Stuff deleted

> is that I have to set the Visitherm to 72 if I want 78 water.  When I first put
> the heater in the tank it was set to 78 when it kept heating at 80 I became
> "suspicious".  
>
> 
> Thanks for any info,
> 
> >
> Ron Feigen
> ronf@panther.mot.com


Ron,

I've got about half a dozen visitherms.  They all work great and keep the
tank temps pretty constant.  None of them however are anything like the
scale indicates.  Most of my tanks are 78-80.  The visitherms are set from
72-76.  I'm not worried about it, I think the temp scale is just off or
standardized to some really wierd setup.  (mine range from 2.5W to 8W per
gallon).

Good luck


Chris
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: jamesb (James Bahn)
Subject: (F) Sick Severum
Organization: The Santa Cruz Operation, Inc.
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 20:55:21 GMT


Can anyone offer a suggestion as to what might be the
problem with my 6" Gold Severum?

He spends 95% of his time sitting on the bottom, and
doesn't bug the Geophagus amymore.  The other fish are
behaving normally, as before.  He's been like this
for a few weeks; he still eats, but with not quite
the vigor he used to show.  He doesn't show external
stress, doesn't rub on tank decorations.

He's in a 50 gallon tank with a 5" Green Severum(F),
5" Pleco, 3 Congo Tetras, and a 5" Geophagus Surinamensis.
Temp 78 degrees, pH 6.8, undetectable ammonia and nitrite,
too much nitrate, weekly 10% water changes, 520 GPH filtering,
and the water is soft enough to keep Discus happy but not
breeding.  Food includes brine shrimp, flakes, tabs, earthworms,
some jellied frozen gorp (commercial), and tubifex every
4 - 5 months.


Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: booth@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (George Booth)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: Need net wisdom asap - must decide (by 7/17) to return or keep wet/dry
Date: 22 Jul 92 21:33:45 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO

In alt.aquaria, fssmith@venus.lerc.nasa.gov (Greg Smith) writes:

    Have you seen the stuff George?  It doesn't have hardly any surface area.
    If it is useless and the tank can get by without it then why keep it?  I
    had a friend who had the junk in a wet dry on a 75 gallon salt water tank.
    He ended up replacing it.

Yes, I've seen the [black] stuff.  How do you know how much surface area it 
has or doesn't have?  People use chopped up straws, PVC shavings, yuppie
media, etc.  Who knows how much surface area that stuff has?  Who knows
how much surface area is needed (the *real* question here)?  *I* don't know 
that it is useless, thus I recommend that he keeps it.  

Why did your friend end up replacing it in his 75 gallon tank?  Did ammonia
and nitrite levels sky-rocket, indicating not enough surface area for 
bacteria to colonize?  Once he changed to whatever he changed to, did
everything get better?  Where there any other factors involved in his 
decision to switch media?  Is your friend an experienced aquarist or is he 
experiencing learning curve problems? 

If you have some quantitative information, please let us know so we can
add it to the net.wisdom.database.

------
George
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Paul A Prior)
Subject: Re: AFM subsciption
Organization: The Ohio State University
Distribution: usa
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 1992 00:50:39 GMT

In article <1992Jul24.225926.8071@cbnews.cb.att.com> wkb@cbnews.cb.att.com (wm.keith.brummett) writes:
>
>    In article <riaz.23@tlc-486.clemson.edu>, riaz@tlc-486.clemson.edu (Riaz
>    Lalani) writes:
>    > ...  I misplaced the info about how to subscribe to AFM for 2 yrs
>    > for 1 yr price.  Would someone please email me that info.  Thanks.
>
>
>    Well, I, for one, am not going to bother renewing my subscription.  I
>    like the mag OK, but those that I get in the mail are in terrible shape.
>    Not a month goes by that I don't receive a crumpled AFM, or one with the
>    cover torn off, or something similar.  I receive lots of magazines, and
>    AFM is the only one with this problem.  Anyone else see this, or am I
>    the only one having such problems?  BTW, I'll probably buy the mag every
>    month from the local pet store.

Mine comes clean and spiffy every month.  Never had a problem.  Sounds
like you have got a bad post office <g>.


-- 
--------pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu----(614) 621-8240----------------
Paul A. Prior    Ban anchors, not reef tanks   "With friends like this,   
3rd year medical student		          who needs anemones?"
The Ohio State U. College of Medicine   Tobacco Kills- Please don't smoke!
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: garyd@pictel.com (Gary Dudley)
Subject: Re: Visitherm heater defective???
Organization: PictureTel Corporation
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 19:13:06 GMT


The behaviour you describe is typical of visitherm (and many other brands), 
based on my experience with about a dozen bought over the years, in both 
50 and 100 Watt sizes.

Don't trust the scale on the heater.  They are usually wrong a couple 
degrees, I have one which is off about 8.  They still work, and keep the 
temperature pretty constant, just not the same value as the scale says.

Despite the large change in setting required to make the heater switch 
quickly between on and off, the net result in the water when you leave 
it alone is about as close to perfect as one can expect for the (little) 
money.  I think what happens is the temperature sensor gets some heat 
from the heater directly, besides what it gets from the water.  So when 
its on it thinks the temperature is going up more than it really is (in 
the water), and vice-versa.  The net effect is to keep the temperature 
of the water constant (within a degree or better) short term, though 
over large room temperature changes the average water temperature may 
vary a couple degrees.

The way I adjust mine is to first adjust the heater setting to a temp 
several degrees lower than what I want to end up with, then put the heater 
in the water for at least 15 minutes, then plug it in and turn the setting 
until the heater just comes on.  Then wait an hour or so, check the actual 
temperature of the water, if its too low, turn the heater setting up, if 
its too high turn the setting back down, but only change the setting by 
one or two degrees at a time, don't keep turning until the heater goes 
on (or off).  During this adjustment, it may turn itself on (off), the 
important thing is to ignore the little light and only change the setting 
a bit.

				garyd@pictel.com

When everyone is out to get you, being paranoid is just good thinking.
	-- Dr. Johnny Fever
From: konrad@mace.cc.purdue.edu (Bill Konrad)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: [F] Feeding Oscars
Keywords: feeding cost, oscars
Date: 22 Jul 92 03:03:00 GMT
Organization: Purdue University

In article <BrrLHJ.DxH@watserv1.waterloo.edu> ijr@canard.waterloo.edu (Ilana Jayne Rosenshein) writes:
>
>Hi,
>
>I am thinking about getting an oscar, but I have a few questions first.
>The main question is how much do they eat? I know they eat alot, and
>I don't have a problem with that, but  how often should you feed it? 
>How do you know when the fish is hungry?  

Oscars are gluttons with truely ravenous appetites. Especially young
oscars will keep their bellies bulging if able to do so. A friend of
mine had a small oscar which once had a guppy in it's mouth and
somehow managed to fit two more in at the same time! How it managed to
catch them, I don't know. 

To make matters worse, they are endearing beggars, and will eagerly do
anything to cajole you into giving them another morsel. Mine would
often jump out of the water to get the food before it reached the
surface. 

When very young, I'd feed mine three times a day. When he got bigger,
I fed him just twice a day with only occasional treats. 

Oscars also grow VERY fast as well. Mine grew from a baby oscar (1 1/2")
to approximately 6" in just four months. 

However you don't need to feed them that much. They can certainly get
by on less, though it may stunt their growth somewhat. 

>Also, could someone give me
>a rough estimate of how much it will cost a month to feed the fish?
>I have the money for a tank, etc, but I don't want to get the fish and 
>end up starving it to death, due to lack of funds/poor planning.

I fed my oscar a variety of foods. The staple food was Hikari pellets.
These are fairly inexpensive when you buy them by mail order. I'd
supplement the diet occasionally with live guppies (maybe once a
week--10-20, though other fish in the tank with oscar also ate them),
some frozen foods (brine srimp and beef heart, though oscar quickly
got too big to bother with then brine shrimp), and the Tetra floating
food sticks for cichlids (I think they were DoroMin and DoroGreen). My
oscar was not at all picky. He ate everything with gusto, though
individual fish may differ in that regard. So all in all, unless you
go all out with store bought live foods, it shouldn't be all that
expensive to feed an oscar (though that's relative I guess). 

All I can say is don't scrimp on getting large tank for the oscar with
lots of filtration. They're messy eaters as well as ravenous. 

But oscars are IMHO, the most interesting of all fish. Enjoy.
-- 
Bill Konrad
konrad@mace.cc.purdue.edu 
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:4321 rec.aquaria:6007 sci.aquaria:1131
From: steve@celia.UUCP (Steve Tyree)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
Subject: Re: [M][R] Secondary Coral Spawning
Date: 24 Jul 92 21:16:20 GMT
Reply-To: celia!steve@usc.edu (Steve Tyree)
Distribution: na
Organization: Rhythm & Hues, Inc., Hollywood

In article <1731@celia.UUCP> celia!steve@usc.edu (Steve Tyree) writes:

-> The hammer spawned again last night. 2 hours before and 1 hour before twi-
-> light. Unfortunately, I was playing around with the camera and missed both
-> short immense geyser spawns. Looked neat in daylight. Tonight I will just
-> keep the video camera running and change tapes every 2 hours. Estimate over
-> a thousand eggs. I did tape a small slow release spawn and eggs floating
-> in the water after the fact.

   The camera ran all night and after reviewing it later that evening,
 I got a "geyser" spawn on tape. Its an incredible sight. One polyp of
 the 4 branches releasing about 200 eggs. Medium sized geyser. The shot
 was a closeup under full metal halide lighting. The spawn is right in
 the middle of a two hour tape. This allows me to analyze the coral before
 and after the spawn. Also, playing the tape forward and backward under    
 different speeds is really interesting. Backwards in fast speed is real
 wild looking. The name geyser is really appropiate for this method of
 shooting eggs out of the polyp. Now we need a better name for the slow
 release method of spawning. The spawn was short and quick. The tape will
 run again tonight.

 ps - I will be out of town for 10 days and probably not have net access.

  Steve Tyree - Reef Breeder
                              "So long and thanks for all the fish".
                               Douglass Adams Dolphin...
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:4384 rec.aquaria:6113
Date: Thursday, 30 Jul 1992 17:07:17 EDT
From: <KRUCK@wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject:    DIY lights- need info

Well, this is the one area I haven't figured out how to save money.
I would like to set up 3 or four 40 watt tubes and either one MH or
maybe the "wonderlight" that someone mentioned a while back.

1. Can anyone tell me the difference between the MH and wonderlight
   in terms of wavelength, wattage, or anything else you think I
   should know? (they both seem really expensive. sigh.)

2. Does anyone know a supplier for waterproof endcaps? The Fish Place
   only has the all rubber kind; I'm looking for a type that is white
   plastic, with rubber o-rings. slip the cover on the bulb, put the
   bulb in the endcap, and screw the cover back in place to protect
   the end of the bulbs. Anybody know what I'm talking about? Where
   can I get them cheap?

3. Just to alleviate my stupidity, do MH require a special ballast,
   or do I need to worry about any other hidden expenses? I can
   build my own reflector and cooling fan.

4. Can anyone update me on what type of ballast I should get for the
   flourescents? Most of the ones I've seen are fairly expensive, but
   if I get single bulb ballasts and wire each bulb seperately, it
   looks like I might end up only paying half as much. They are the
   ugly black ballasts (I have no idea what type). Also, will these
   screw up my t.v. reception?

5. Any reason why I can't build my own reflector shield out of
   aluminum foil?

6. Can I keep the plastic splash shield that came with the tank, or
   do I need to make a glass one to let a wider spectrum of light
   through for corals, etc.?
                            Thanks in advance,
                                               Kruck
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:4277 rec.aquaria:5940
From: philt@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (philip.tomaskovic)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [M] Threespot Damsel Spawning?
Summary: Me Too!
Date: 21 Jul 92 21:39:23 GMT
Followup-To: rec.aquaria
Distribution: na
Organization: AT&T



I've already sent mail to the original poster...
My Domino Damsels also spawned a couple of days ago!
They must like the current weather in Naperville, Ill, since
we both work at the same location.

They also spawned a few weeks ago, but the eggs disappeared
in a few days.

The male is very protective. It's amazing how much a 3' snowflake
will be intimidated by a damsel 1/12 its size!

Phil
philt@cbnewsd.att.com

Bell Labs, Naperville: Damsel Breeding Center of the US!
From: booth@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (George Booth)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 18:48:44 GMT
Subject: Re: Unfiltered Tanks (Was: Re: Need net wisdom asap...)
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria

In alt.aquaria, enenkel@cs.toronto.edu (Robert Frederick Enenkel) writes:

  Are you for real?  Or are we talking about two different things without
  realising it?  Put enough fish in any tank and the ammonia will go through
  the roof even with a filter.  So you must be assuming something about the
  fish load.  But without a filter the maximum allowable load is very small.
  I found that a 100 gal tank with an airstone cannot digest the ammonia from
  four 3" long common goldfish.  It had more than two months to get established.
  The ammonia-nitrogen level was 5-10 ppm.  (I did water changes so it wouldn't
  go above that).

OK, now we got some data.  Clearly the surface area of the tank glass is
not enough to support a sufficient number of bacteria to convert ammonia.
Our 100g acrylic tank is 20x18x60 outside and 19x17x59.5 inside for a 
surface area of 27.6 sq ft.  So 2.3 sq ft per inch of fish is insufficient.

Do you still have the tank?  Can you add a small filter, like an aquaclear
200 or a small Tetra sponge filter?  

Does anybody have what they consider a minimally filtered tank that shows
0 ammonia? 

------
George
From: scotts@cbmvax.commodore.com (Scott Schaeffer)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: (M) Iodine
Keywords: Iodine
Date: 30 Jul 92 12:33:57 GMT
Reply-To: scotts@cbmvax.commodore.com (Scott Schaeffer)
Distribution: na
Organization: Commodore, West Chester, PA

In article <1992Jul29.125410.13731@cbfsb.cb.att.com> mdc@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (barbara.guerin) writes:
>
>I have been considering adding an Iodine supplement to
>my 60 gal reef .  I was reading both Thiel and Tullock's
>books on supplements and they both suggets using Iodine
>if keeping macroalgae.  I don't.  However I use ozone
>with my skimmer.  Any experience reef keepers out there
>have opinions about adding iodine.  If so is Thiel's
>supplement the best?
>
>Please post on Netnews I use someonelse login.
>
>Thanks
>Dana

I don't know about the effect on macroalgae I believe
the addition of Fe has more effect, but Iodine addition
has provided stunning growth in soft corals. Don't spend
the money on the expensive additives. Tincture of iodine
from the drug store diluted in water and added to the
reef works fine. See past net posts for mixing concentrations
or email me and I'll look it up at home.

	Scott Schaeffer
	scotts@cbmvax.commodore.com
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria