HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: davidbu@loowit.wr.tek.com (David E. Buxton)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: How Can I Stop My Dog from Digging Holes in our yard ?
Date: 10 Apr 92 19:50:17 GMT
Distribution: misc


After giving it some thought, here is what I'd do.
The objective is that the dog thinks the hole is vindictive and that
you come out a hero.

Get a good stirdy anchor to twist into the bottom of the hole.  If you
have a pulley, great.  Take about 100 ft of rope or stout clothes line.
Run the rope through the loop at the top of the stake, or pulley if you
have one.  Tie one end to the dogs collar and take hold of the other
end.  Without using the rope yet you want the dog between you and the
hole.  That is why I suggest a long rope so you can be quite far away
and still have the rope in hand.  Wait till the dog gazes in the
direction of the hole.  Then suddenly make the hole magnetic, that is
start hauling in on the rope so the dog gets towed to the hole.  Once
the dog is dragged to the hole and held there long enough to feel
miserable you can run up and be the hero that lets him loose.  Half
an hour should be long enough, maybe even 15 minutes with this method. Do
that a few times and the dog will learn that holes have horribly
magical powers that can be a pain in the neck.  Do that a few times
until you can lead your dog past a hole and observe a strong negative
reaction to the hole.  Let the hole be the villain and you be the hero.

Dave
From: marie@paris.erg.sri.com (Marie desJardins)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Mortgage brokers
Date: 6 Apr 92 23:44:20 GMT
Reply-To: marie@paris.erg.sri.com (Marie desJardins)
Organization: SRI International, Menlo Park, CA

What exactly does a mortgage broker do?  Am I better off using
one, or just calling banks myself to find out their loan programs?
How much do they charge, and when is the charge paid?  (up front,
when the loan application is filed, or when the loan is granted?)

I haven't noticed anything in the FAQ on general advice for (first-time)
homebuyers.  Does such a thing exist?

Thanks.
Marie desJardins
From: tedb@hpcvra.cv.hp.com (Ted Beers)
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1992 16:45:28 GMT
Subject: Shower Choices All Wet
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Corvallis, OR, USA
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house


    We are planning for a new house, and decision #1523 has to do with
    the master bath.  We are planning to have an oversized shower (3' by
    6'), but apparently the largest fiberglass enclosure one can buy is
    5' long.  The only options we've heard of so far are:

    o Build a tile enclosure.  This isn't desirable for us because of
      high cost (and maintenance).

    o Build a "cultured marble" enclosure.  Cultured marble is a panel
      covered with resins and such to resemble marble; it's commonly
      used to make combination bathroom counters and sinks.  The main
      problem with this option is the lack of finish choices; we'd
      prefer something besides a marble look.

    o Go with a 5' fiberglass enclosure.  But we were hoping for 6', so
      this isn't so great.

    Does anyone have any other alternatives to add?  Reactions to any of
    these choices are also welcome.  Thanks!

				Ted Beers

From: ajeans@hplred.HP.COM (Albert Jeans)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1992 22:03:10 GMT
Subject: Re: Re: How to clean range hood?
Organization: Hewlett Packard Labs, Palo Alto CA
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house

Oven cleaner will work but it tends to ruin the finish on polished aluminum.
Don't put the aluminum mesh into your self-cleaning oven. The heat will anneal
the aluminum and make it really soft. Maybe some other solvents like lacquer
thinner would dissolve the thick gooey grease. I've found this semi-dried
grease to be a real problem to clean up anywhere.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: dsr@chickpea.mitre.org (Douglas S. Rand)
Subject: Re: GFI question
Organization: The MITRE Corporation
	<1992Apr09.143601.2042@fincomp.raidernet.com>
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1992 15:44:44 GMT

In article <1992Apr09.143601.2042@fincomp.raidernet.com> root@fincomp.raidernet.com (Neal McClain) writes:

   ronnie@cisco.com (Ronnie B. Kon) writes:
   >Remember that a GFI recepticle protects all recepticles further on the
   >circuit as well as itself.

   It does?  Are you sure?  Somehow, this doesn't seem right to me.

   Anyone care to comment?

The GFCI receptacles sold will protect outlets wired "downstream" of
them.  This is at least true of the Levitron and Slater brands that
I've bought.  I see no reason to expect that other models and 
brands would not be similar.



--
Douglas S. Rand 
Internet:   <dsrand@mitre.org>
Snail:	    MITRE, Burlington Road, Bedford, MA 
Disclaimer: MITRE might agree with me - then again...
Amateur Radio: KC1KJ
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: pjh@mccc.edu (Pete Holsberg)
Subject: Re: dumping a broker
Organization: The College On The Other Side Of Route One
Distribution: misc
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 17:20:50 GMT

In article <1992Apr2.185708.26289@informix.com> davek@informix.com (David Kosenko) writes:
=In article <1992Apr1.180309.24592@mccc.edu> 
=	pjh@mccc.edu (Pete Holsberg) writes:
=>
=>Did he say why he thought that increasing the commission would make the
=>house sell better? Dropping the price is usually a better incentive for
=>the buyer.
=
=	Increasing the commision makes broker's more inclined to show the
=house, and to point out to potential buyers all it's hidden assets ;-).

One thing that's done around here is to offer the selling agent a bonus
of $500 or $1000.

=	I think lowering the price is not always so significant since
=buyers are likely to bid below the asking price anyway.  Unless you drop
=the price substantially (say $10K), you are not going to attract that
=many more people.  Plus, lower price means smaller commission = less
=incentive to sell.

Lowering the price is the way to get people to see the house. Generally,
agents will not bring people to see a $150,000 house if they know of a
couple of equivalent houses selling for $145,000 or less. Also, dropping
the price below what comparable ones are asking is a good way for a
quick sale, and no agent will refuse a sale that takes less time than
the average. After all, the difference in the commission between
$140,000 and $150,000 is only $150.
-- 
Prof. Peter J. Holsberg      Mercer County Community College
Voice: 609-586-4800          Engineering Technology, Computers and Math
FAX: 609-586-6944            1200 Old Trenton Road, Trenton, NJ 08690
Internet: pjh@mccc.edu       Trenton Computer Festival: April 11-12, 1992
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: leath@atlas.cs.upei.ca (Stephen Leath)
Subject: Re: how to remove wall paper glue
Organization: University of Prince Edward Island
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 12:12:49 GMT

In article <CARL.92Apr13170646@atlantis.Cayman.COM> carl@Cayman.COM (Carl Heinzl) writes:
>
>We've always just mixed Vinegar and Water, sprayed it on the
>wallpaper, waited a few minutes and started stripping.
>

I've just tried a TSP (Trisodium Phosphate substitute, friendly to the
environment, no bad fumes and no gloves needed) to a plaster wall that had
been last wallpapered in 1945. After the paper was steamed off, this product
removed the remaining bits of paper, glue and stains and left a gleaming
white wall. The product was a store brand and had no ingredients listed so
you would have to look for something around the TSP shelves that attested to
the above description. An extra feature it did not harm the shellaced
woodwork at all, in fact it removed wallpaper that had been lapped over the
woodwork that I had not tried to remove with the steamer for obvious
reasons. 

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: LVDUANE@SCIVAX.LERC.NASA.GOV (Duane Beach)
Subject: Re: Are skylights suitable for high pitch roofs?
Organization: NASA/Lewis Research Center
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1992 19:04:18 GMT

In article <7499@brchh104.bnr.ca>, ars@n5pph007.uucp (Andrew Snedeker) writes:
> 
> In article <1992Apr9.124557.3706@infonode.ingr.com> frank@ugly.b23a.ingr.com (Franklin Owens) writes:
> >I am currently having a house built.  The plans calls for a skylight in
> >the bathroom.  However the roof pitch is 10/12 which is fairly steep.  I
> >have been told that because of the speepness that the skylight will look
> >more like a tunnel. I tend to agree with this but what do you guys think?
> >
Our bathroom has a skylight.  The end towards the roof peak is a good 5 feet
from the bathroom ceiling.  The opposite end is about two feet away.  The
effect is a that of light well.  It provides much light and is plenty
attractive.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,rec.pets.cats
From: brenda_cripps@mentorg.com
Subject: Re: Alarm systems and cats
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 16:42:05 GMT
Organization: Mentor Graphics Corporation
Keywords: alarm, cats
Followup-To: 


-- 

We recently had an alarm system installed.  We got around the cat problem
by not getting a motion detector.  Instead we got glass breakage sensors.
The alarm guy told us to drill holes next to the windows for lock pins,
which prevents windows from being opened.  This way we can place the pins
so that the windows can be left part way open for ventilation in the summer.


---------------------------
Brenda Cripps
Mentor Graphics Corporation
8005 SW Boeckman Road
Wilsonville  OR 97070-7777
685-7000 x3069
From: rhaar@albert.cs.gmr.com (Bob Haar)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Which first - replacement windows or f
Date: 9 Apr 92 14:17:40 GMT
Reply-To: rhaar@albert.cs.gmr.com
Organization: G.M. Research Labs

In article 8376@mnemosyne.cs.du.edu, pb@mnemosyne.cs.du.edu (PB Schechter) writes:
|>In article <cdsiSnm00Uh_A1XFJK@andrew.cmu.edu> ah0r+@andrew.cmu.edu (Allyson Halpern) writes:
|>>Now that the warm weather is upon us, it is unfortunately time to start
|>>preparing for the next harsh winter. We have leaky old windows and a
|>>humongous old furnace - both need to be replaced but we can really only
|>>afford to replace one or the other right now. Some tell me to do the
|>>furnace first, others the windows. Any recommendations? Thanks! - Allyson
|>
|>Call your utility company and ask if they will do a free energy audit.
|>If they won't, ask if they recommend someone who will do one for money.
|>A competent analysis will tell you just how leaky your windows are and
|>just how inefficient your furnace is, and--based on your house's energy
|>utilization in the past--will tell you what kind of payback to expect for
|>all the things you might want to do.  Then, choose the one(s) that give(s)
|>you the fastest payback.
|>

Good advice. But if the two end up being nearly equal in energy
savings and payback, I would suggest doing the window upgrade
first. You will feel a bigger change in the comfort level
of your house that way. I am speaking from the experience of
having replaced all old aluminum frame (no thermal block) windows
in my house. 

A side benefit is the opportunity to fix up insulation and
sealing problems around the windows.


---
	Robert Haar               InterNet : rhaar@gmr.com 
	Computer Science Dept., G.M. Research Laboratories
DISCLAIMER: Unless indicated otherwise, everything in this note is
personal opinion, not an official statement of General Motors Corp.

From: steinbac@hpl-opus.hpl.hp.com (Guenter Steinbach)
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1992 16:42:35 GMT
Subject: Re: Mortgage brokers
Organization: HP Labs, High Speed Electronics Dept., Palo Alto, CA
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house

In misc.consumers.house, staffan@ca.serum.kodak.com (Kenneth Staffan (x37507)) writes:
> > >They typically charge a `markup' which you don't see.
> 
> > ... I wonder how you wouldn't see this...

You actually don't because as was pointed out before, the broker gets
the loan "wholesale", while you pay retail.  What this means is when he
sells you a loan with 2 points, he pays only one point to the bank and
pockets the other point.  One point is a typical broker markup.  He
doesn't live on your application fees alone...  I have seen the wholesale
loan lists, and on what he advertises as a "zero-point" loan the broker
actually gets one percent back from the bank.

	 Guenter Steinbach		          steinbach@hpl.hp.com
From: drake@drake.almaden.ibm.com (Sam Drake)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: What is a fair realtor's commission?
Date: 9 Apr 92 06:33:17 GMT
Organization: IBM Almaden Research Center

In article <6300135@hpfcbig.SDE.HP.COM> lisa@hpfcbig.SDE.HP.COM (Lisa Stroyan) writes:
>                          Anyway, I am wondering what kind of commission/
>selling fee is reasonable.  He says that he generally charges 7% (although
>he might be willing to make a deal since we are buying the house from
>him; don't worry, we'll get it in writing and won't count on it).  

I suspect this varies from city to city ... here the "standard" amount is
6%.  Whether "standard" == "reasonable" is a matter of opinion and much
debate.


Sam Drake / IBM Almaden Research Center 
Internet:  drake@almaden.ibm.com    BITNET:  DRAKE at ALMADEN
From: vermilye@Oswego.EDU (Jon R. Vermilye)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Multiple TV antennas (was: Television antenna)
Date: 3 Apr 92 16:19:02 GMT
Reply-To: vermilye@oswego.Oswego.EDU (Jon R. Vermilye)
Organization: Instructional Computing Center, SUNY at Oswego, Oswego, NY

In article <1992Apr1.142929.7968@wuecl.wustl.edu> jab3@cec2.wustl.edu (John Alonzo Breen) writes:
>As for using the splitter as a combiner, I ran into a discrepancy
>while reading the owner's manual for my father-in-law's RCA TV.  It
>has only a single coax input - no screw terminals for UHF.  Everywhere
>else where they talk about using splitters, switches, etc., they say
>"use RCA #XXX or equivalent".  However, for combining VHF/UHF, they
>say "USE ONLY RCA #XXX".
>
>Does anyone know why this would be (I have the exact part number at
>home, if it would help)?
>--

A splitter does just what its name implies - it splits all of the signal
between the 2,3,or 4 (or more) outputs.  Depending on how it is constructed,
a simple 2 way splitter will lose 3db (1/2 the signal) due to the way it 
splits the signal, and another 3db since what is left is split in to two
outputs.  There is no problem using a splitter to combine antennas, but 
there are devices that make more sense to use if the antennas (or outputs)
are different frequencies.  A combiner that has separate inputs (outputs)
for UHF and VHF dosen't split the signal - when used as a combiner, the
VHF & UHF signals are added.  This will provide less loss.  The same thing
happens when they are used as a splitter - only the UHF goes to the UHF
output, VHF to VHF.  Another advantage is they generally do not pass
signal outside the input range.  I had a case where a near by FM transmitter
was located 90 degrees from a distant UHF station.  When a standard splitter
was used to combine the antennas, the boom of the UHF antenna picked up 
enough FM signal to overdrive the TV's VHF section.  By using a combining
UHF/VHF in place of the splitter, only the UHF signal made it to the TV.
 
In general, if you are combining different frequencies (UHF & VHF) a 
combiner or splitter that has inputs (outputs) for each frequency will
get more signal between antenna & TV.

 
Jon R. Vermilye                          		         315 341 2138
Department of Theatre, Tyler Hall                  vermilye@oswego.oswego.edu
SUNY Oswego                                         ..rutgers!oswego!vermilye
Oswego, NY 13126                                     vermilye@snyoswva.bitnet

>John A. Breen                   |
>jab3@cec1.wustl.edu             | This space unintentionally left blank
>johnb@hobbes.mdc.com            |
>Tel: (314)234-4341              |
From: srinath@mips.com (Srinath)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: A Simple Mortgage question
Date: 14 Apr 1992 18:02:20 GMT
Organization: Mips Computer Systems Inc.
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: spunk.mips.com

In article <kum3c3INNd3p@spim.mips.com> srinath@mips.com (Srinath) writes:
>
>
>	I was looking through my 1991 statements from my mortgage company and
>I calculated the following:
>
>	      Total Interest paid in 1991
>	X =  -----------------------------  x 100
>	      Loan Balance on Dec 31st 1991
>
>
>Now, shoudn't X be approximately equal to my interest rate? I know that balance
>decreases over time but since my loan is just 2 years old there isn't a whole
>lot of difference between my balance at the beginning and at the end of the year.
>I have taken the balance at the end of the year to be more conservative.
>
>In any case, X, for me turns out to be 1 more than the interest rate I am 
>supposed to be paying. What gives? 
>
>
>srinath
>


	Please ignore this message. Thanks to Diane Segelhorst. She correctly
pointed out that I must have made my january payment in December and that is
why my interest payments for 1991 looked bigger. Pretty foolish of me.


srinath
From: kurtk@vice.ICO.TEK.COM (Kurt Krueger)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: The Smoking Refrigerator
Date: 17 Apr 92 16:35:30 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Beaverton,  OR.

There's two items in modern frost-free refrigerator that could GENERATE smoke.

The most likely culprit is the defrost heater.  This is usually located
under the floor of the freezer compartment (for top freezer models).  It's
kind of a pain to get to, but look for a glass tube with a heating element
inside.  If something (like melted/spilled food) managed to leak down
over that element, it could create smoke.

The other is the little fan that moves air around.  It's not too likely, but
this does have motor windings and connections that could get hot.
From: brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Foundation pier question
Date: 14 Apr 92 17:28:18 GMT
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server

Dry-stacking piers would be a big-ticket violation in California,
what with the seismic issues.  I suspect that's the reason why
it's a problem for your house.  However, the answers to your
questions are best found locally; call your building department
for info on codes.  Specifically ask tham about the stucco
arrangement.  It sounds fish to me, but I'm a Californian.  Your
milage *will* vary.

Same thing applies to the shim/spacer issue.

Pete Brooks
From: davidbu@loowit.wr.tek.com (David E. Buxton)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Carpet and Baseboard Moulding - Question
Date: 9 Apr 92 22:23:07 GMT


A friend of mine is a finish carpenter.  He advised me that I should
put in the baseboard moulding before the carpet.  That will make it
easier to put it in level and save on having to be careful about
wood filler and paint splatter onto the carpet.

My wife is eager for the carpet (we are already in the house)

But before I can do all the base moulding I have to do the door
moulding and before that all the doors have to be in.  The room
doors are in and door moulded, but not the closets.  My friend suggests
I put in the readily installed base moulding and leave the last
piece out at each location abbuting an un-finished opening.  Or,
tack nail the moulding so I can pull it off, trim to length and
then nail it home later.

Or I could just let all the rest of the moulding go for now.

Also, the kitchen does not have underlayment and linolium.  How to
bring the carpet up to a door opening not finished on the other side?
My friend suggested that I use brass nailer stips to terminate the
carpet into the doorway.  Then later when the kitchen linolium goes
in the brass strip can be pried up just enough to slip the linolium
under, say 1/4" and then pressed back into place over the linolium.

Any second oppinions out there?  Anybody with similar experience?

Thanks,

Dave
From: larry@elvis.NoSubdomain.NoDomain (Larry Pollack)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: INCOMPLETE FLUSHING IN A TOILET
Date: 15 Apr 92 21:09:50 GMT
Reply-To: larry@xlnt.com
Organization: XLNT Designs, Inc.

In article <4100616@hpcc01.corp.hp.com>, freds@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Fred Saavedra) writes:
|> 
|> 
|> 
|> I had the same problem, it was a small plastic spoon stuck deep in the toilet.
|> I discovered the spoon by removing the toilet from the floor , turning
|> it over and reaching inside. What a mess. If you go this way, be sure to
|> buy a new wax ring before starting the job. Also, plan on getting water all
|> over the place. 
|> 
|> fs

I recently replaced two toilets. To handle the water problem, I used a synthetic
chamois to soak up the remaining water in the tank and bowl (a sponge or towel
should do nicely as well). This process was recommeded by the Home Depot
salesperson and I kept high and dry.

-- 
/======================================================================\
| Lawrence J. Pollack                   | Your source for FDDI SMT.    |
| XLNT Designs, Inc.                    | Voice   : 619-487-9320       |
| Internet: larry@xlnt.com              | Fax     : 619-487-9768       |
\======================================================================/
From: bollard@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Lee M. Bollard)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 22:49:33 GMT
Subject: LazyBoy or FlexSteel?
Organization: Hewlett Packard Company, Spokane, Wa.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house

I shopping for a new couch and am interested in the Lazyboy and the
Flex-steel brands.

Do any of you have experience with these brands and know the relative
difference in quality?

Is the Flex-steel brand better than Lazyboy?


Regards,

Lee Bollard              
HP Spokane Division
bollard@hpspkla.spk.hp.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: rogerv@sco.COM (Roger Vortman)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: ANTS!!!!!!!! HELP!
Date: Mon, 06 Apr 92 20:43:02 GMT
Organization: The Santa Cruz Operation, Inc.


>I'm at my wit's end.  We have a door who's threshold has a bit of a gap.
>There is a rubber flap on both sides of the door to keep the wind out, 
>but it doesn't seem to keep the ants out. 

>The only "food" that I can think could be attracting these things is the 
>fact that the space their entering into has been recently renovated.  New 
>carpet, ceiling, walls, etc.

>One final bit of interesting info... they die shortly after entering the 
>house.  The was the case even BEFORE I started my chemical raid on them.

Can't resist a joke here.  Given this situation, I'd be more worried about
why they die shortly after entering my house than how to repel them.
Ants are hard to kill, so what's the story?

(Note: this is only a joke, if this were a real emergency you would be told
 where to tune, etc...)

-Roger
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house